Baedeker’s Guide Books, with Maps and Plans, 6 s. The Rhine and Northern Germany, 1868 Southern Germany and the Empire of Austria, with Maps and Plans, s ' Northern Italy as far as leghorn, Florence and Ancona and the Island of Corsica, with 6 Maps and 20 Plans, 1868, 5 s. Central Italy and Rome, with 3 Maps and 8 Plans, 1867. 5 a. Southern Italy, Sicily and the Lipari Islands, with 4 Maps and 6 Plans, 1867. Paris and Northern France 5 s. 19 Plans. ... 5 8. with 2 Maps and Second Edition, 1867. Switzerland, and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy and the Tyrol, with 19 Maps, 7 Plans and 7 Panoramas. Edition, 1867 Third 5 s. 6 d. The Traveller’s Manual of Conversation in English, German,' French and Italian. Eighteenth Edition, 1866 os. Belgien und Holland. Neunte Auflage. 1865. 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr. Deutschland. Dreizehnte Auflage. 1867 3 Thlr. Mittel- nnd Nord - Deutschland. Dreizehnte Auflage. 1867 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. Oesterreich, Siid- und West-Deutschland. Zwolfte Auflage. 1867 2 lhlr - Ober-Italien. Dritte Auflage. 1865 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. Mittel -Italien und Rom. 1866 1 Thlr - 20 Sp- linter - Italien , Sicilien nnd die 1866 London nebst Ausfliigen nach Siid-England , Wales und Schottland. Dritte Auflage. 1868 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. Paris und Nord-Frankreich. Sechste Auflage. 1867. 1 Thlr. 18 Sgr. Rheinlande. Fiinfzehnte Auflage. 1868 1 Thlr. 10 Sgr. Schweiz. Eilfte Auflage. 1867 1 Thlr. 22 Sgr. Conversationsbuch. Achtzehnte Auflage. 1866 1 Thlr. Liparischen Inseln. 1 Thlr. 20 Sgr. May 1868. S KUW.Uil) GO OHM AX ^ j PBI-N'TSISXLEH.aT. A thrGrfclt FlOHl.XCt; V JfyyrlM SlatioiMy. i? v®* 3 / . ■ >- ' ^ ■■• " , ' ^ ■ _ - 0 ?, , '' r. ->*■*-* c4/ ^l- . i,: ? ;■ r? fV ; ^ ' fl 4 ^-L^ v c-k/ ., ,„." ;■., " ••:: . , ■ ^ \# ' \; , ' ... ,: ■ r 7 - /? - VV ’/? . V/ CUJJL~t$L* “Hj ^ '■ •- ♦ ' /)■ : - fi W , / . / ' " A . ■ v/m U> l ' &L #* - c ii) ' .A ■ \0 S ..? f yi/ . 4~4 / ^ rte selected and the sirocco carefully avoided. The height of summer is totally adverse to tours of this kind. A horse (cavallo) or donkey, between which the difference of expense is inconsiderable, often affords a pleasant and inexpen- HOTELS. XIX sive mode of locomotion, especially in mountainous districts, where the attendant (pedone) acts at once as a servant for the time being and as a guide. VIII. Hotels. The idea of cleanliness in Italy is in arrear of the age; the brilliancy of the southern climate perhaps, in the opinion of the natives, neutralizes dirt. The traveller will, however, not suffer much annoyance in this respect in hotels and lodgings of the best class. Those who quit the beaten track, on the other hand, must be prepared for privations. Insect-powder (polvere di Persia) or powdered camphor is some antidote to the advances of noc- turnal intruders. The zanzare , or gnats, are a source of great annoyance, and often suffering, during the autumn months. Windows should always be carefully closed before a light is introduced into the room. Light muslin curtains (zanzieri) round the beds, masks for the face and gloves are employed to ward off the attacks of these pertinacious tormentors. In all the more frequented places, good hotels of the first class, equal in comfort to those in other parts of Europe, are always to be found, the landlords of which are frequently German and Swiss. Rooms 2V 2 — 5 fr., bougies 75 c. — 1 fr., attendance 1 fr., table d’hote 4 fr. and so on. Families, for whose reception the hotels are often specially fitted up, should make an agree- ment with the landlord with regard to pension (8 — 10 fr. each). Strangers are expected to dine at the table d’hote , otherwise the price of the room is raised, or the inmate is given to under- stand that it is let over his head. French spoken everywhere. Cuisine a mixture of French and Italian. The second-class inns are thoroughly Italian, rarely very clean or comfortable; prices about one-half the above; no table d'hote, but a trattoria will generally be found connected with the house, where refreshments a la carte may be procured at any hour. These establishments will often be found convenient and economical by the voyageur en gar$on, but are of course rarely visited by ladies. The best hotels have fixed charges. Attendance, exclusive of boots and commissionaire, is charged in the bill. This is not the case in the smaller inns, where 1 fr. per diem is usually divided b* XX HOTELS. between the waiter and the facchino , or less for a prolonged stay. Copper coins are never despised by such recipients. Hotel Garnis are much frequented by those whose stay ex- tends to 10 — 14 days and upwards, and the inmates enjoy greater quiet and independence than at a hotel. The charges are moreover considerably more moderate. Attendance about V 2 fr- P er diem. Lodgings , of various degrees of comfort and acommodation, may also be procured for a prolonged residence. Here, likewise, a distinct agreement respecting the rent should be made before- hand. Where a whole suite of apartments is hired, a written contract should be drawn up with the aid of some one acquainted with the language and customs of the place (e. g. a. banker). For single travellers a verbal agreement with regard to attendance, linen, stoves and carpets in winter, a' receptable for coal etc., will generally suffice. A few hints may be here added for the benefit of the less experienced : If a prolonged stay be made at a hotel, the bill should be demanded every three or four days, by which means errors, whether accidental or designed, are more easily detected. When the traveller contemplates de- parting at an early hour in the morning, the bill should be obtained on the previous evening, but not paid until the moment for starting has arrived. It is a favourite practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and confusion render overcharges less liable to discovery. The mental arithmetic of waiters is apt to be exceedingly faulty, though rarely in favour of the traveller. A written enumeration of the items charged for should therefore invariably be required, and accounts rejected in which, as not unfrequently happens, “ colazione , pranzo , vino , caffk etc.” figure in the aggregate. Information obtained from waiters and others of a similar class can seldom be implicitly retied upon. Enquiries should be addressed to the landlords or head-waiters alone, and even their statements received with caution. IX. Restaurants and Cafes. Restaurants (trattorie) are chiefly frequented by Italians, and travellers unacompanied by ladies. Dinner may be obtained a la carte at any hour between 12 and 7 or 8 p. m., for 1 V 2 — 3 fr. The waiters expect a gratuity of 2 — 4 sous. The diner who desires to confine his expenses within reasonable limits should refrain from ordering dishes not comprised in the bill of fare. A late hour for the principal repast of the day should be selected in winter, in order that the daylight may be profitably caf£s. XXI employed. — Importunities on the part of the waiters are usually disposed of by the expression “non seccarmi”. The following list comprises most of the commoner Ita- lian dishes: Zuppa, soup. Consume broth or bouillon. Santl or minestra , soup with green vegetables and bread. Gnocchi, small puddings. Rito con piselli, rice-soup with peas. Risotto , a species of rice pud- ding (rich), Maccaroni al burro , with butter ; al pomidoro , with paradise- apples. Manzo, boiled beef. Fritti, fried meat. Arrosti , roasted meat. Bistecca, beefsteak. Coscietto, loin. Arrosto di vitello, . roast veal. Testa di vitello, calf’s head. Fegato di vitello , calf’s liver. Braccioletta di vitello, veal-cutlet. Costoletta alia minuta, veal-cutlet with calf’s ears and truffles. Patate , potatoes. Quaglia, quail. Tordo, field-fare. Lodola, lark. Sfoglia, a species of sole. Principi alia tavola , hot relishes. Funghi, mushrooms (often too rich). Presciutto, ham. Salami, sausage. Cafes are frequented for 1 evening by numerous consumers Polio, fowl. Pollastro, turkey. Umidi, meat with sauce. Stufatino, ragout. Erbe, vegetables. Carciofi , artichokes. Piselli, peas. Lenticchie, lentils. Cavoli fiori, cauliflower. Fave, beans. Fagiuolini or cornete, French beans Mostarda, simple mustard. Senape, hot mustard. Ostriche, oysters (good in winter only). Giardinetto , fruit-desert. Crostata di frutti, fruit-tart. Crosfata di pasta sfogla, a spe- cies of pastry. Fragole, strawberies, Pera, pear. Persiche, peaches. Uva, bunch of grapes. Limone, lemon. Portogallo, orange. Finocchio, root of fennel. Pane francese, bread made with yeast (the Italian is made without). Formaggio, cheese. Vino nero , red wine ; bianco white; asciutto , dry; dolce, sweet; nostrale, table- wine, reakfast and lunch, and in the of ices. Caf6 noir (caffl nero) XXII CAFES. is usually drunk (20 c. per cup). Caffe latte is coffee mixed with milk before served (20 c.), or caffe e latte, i. e. with the milk served separately, may he preferred. Mischio is a mixture of coffee and chocolate (15—20 c.), considered wholesome and nutritious. The usual viands for lunch are ham, sausages, cutlets and eggs (nova da here , soft; toste, hard; uova al piatto , fried). Ices ( gelato ) of every possible variety are supplied at the cafes (30 — 90 c. per portion); a half portion (mezzo) may al- ways he ordered. Granita, or half-frozen ice ( limonata of le- mons; aranciata of oranges), is especially in vogue in the fore- noon. The waiter (bottega) expects a sou or more according to the amount of the payment; he occasionally makes mistakes in changing money, if not narrowly watched. The principal Parisian newspapers- are to be found at all the larger cafes, English rarely. Valets de Place (servitori di Piazza) may be hired at 5 fr. per diem, the employer previously distinctly specifying the ser- vices to he rendered. They are generally trustworthy and re- spectable , hut implicit reliance should not he placed on their statements respecting the places most worthy of a visit, which the traveller should ascertain from the guide-hook or other source. Their services may always he dispensed with, unless time is very limited. Travellers are cautioned against employing the sensali , or commissionaires - of an inferior class, who pester the stranger with offers of every description. Contracts with vetturini and similar negociations should never be concluded through such a medium, or indeed any other. Interventions of this description invariably tend to increase prices, and are often productive of still more serious contretemps. This remark applies especially to villages and small towns, whether on or out of the regular track. X. Churches, Theatres, Shops etc. Churches are open till noon, and usually again from 4 to 7 p. m. ; Visitors may inspect the works of art even during the hours of divine service, provided they move about noiselessly, and keep aloof from the altar where the clergy are officiating. The verger (sagrestano or nonzolo) receives a fee of V 2 fr. or upwards, if his services are required. Theatres. The representations in the large theatres begin at 8 and terminate at midnight or later. Here operas and hal- SHOPS. xxm lets are exclusively performed; the first act of an opera is usu- ally succeeded by a ballet of 3 or more acts. Verdi is tbe most popular composer. The pit (platea) is the usual resort of the men. A box (palco) must always be secured in advance. — A visit to tbe smaller theatres, where dramas and comedies are acted, is especially recommended for the sake of habituating the ear to the language. Representations in summer take place in the open air, in which case smoking is allowed. The charming co- medies of Goldoni are still among the most popular. — The theatre is a favourite evening-resort of the Italians, by whom during the performance of the music profound silence is never observed. Shops rarely have fixed prices (prezzi -fissi). As a rule two- thirds or three-quarters of the price demanded should he offered. The same rule applies to artizans, drivers and others. “Non volete?” (then you will not?) is a remark which generally has the effect of bringing the matter to a speedy termination. Pur- chases should never he made hy the traveller when accompanied hy a valet-de-place. These individuals, hy tacit agreement, re- ceive at least 10 per cent of the purchase-money, which natu- rally comes out of the pocket of the purchaser. This system of extortion is carried so far that, when a member of the above* class observes a stranger enter a shop, he presents himself at the door and afterwards claims his percentage under the pretext that by his recommendation the purchase has been made. In such cases it is by no means superfluous to call the attention of the shopkeeper to the imposition (“non conosco quest ’ uomo” ). Cigars in Italy, France and Austria are a monopoly of Go- vernment; those under 3 — 4 soldi scarcely smokable. Passers-by freely avail themselves of the light which burns in every cigar- shop, without making any purchase. XI. Postal Arrangements. The address of letters (whether poste restante or to the tra- veller’s hotel) should, as a rule, be in the Italian or French language. Postage-stamps are sold at all the tobacco-shops. Letters to England cost 60 c., France 40 c., Germany 60 c., Switzerland 30 e., Belgium 40, Holland (via France) 70 c.,- Denmark 85 c., Norway and Sweden 1 fr., Russia 1 fr. XXIV CLIMATE Letters by town-post 5 c.; throughout the kingdom of Italy 20 c. prepaid, 30 c. unpaid. Letters to Rome must be prepaid as far as the frontier (20 c.), also vice versa (5 baj.). In the larger towns the post-office is open the whole day from 9 a. m. to 10 p. m. (also on Sundays and holidays). XII. Calculation of Time. The old Italian reckoning from 1 to 24 o’clock is now disused, except by the humbler classes. Ave Maria = 24. The hours are altered every fortnight, being regulated by the sunset. The or- dinary reckoning of other nations is termed ora francese. The traveller will find little difficulty in employing the Italian reckon- ing should he have occasion to do so. XIII. Climate. Mode of Living. Travellers from the north must in some degree alter their mode of living whilst in Italy, without however implicitly adop- ting the Italian style. Strangers generally become unusually susceptible to cold in Italy, and therefore should not omit to be well supplied with warm clothing for the winter. Carpets and stoves, to the comforts of which the Italians generally appear indifferent, are indispensable in winter. A southern aspect is an absolute essential for the delicate, and highly desirable for the robust. Colds are most easily taken after sunset and in rainy weather. — Even in summer it is a wise precaution not to wear too light clothing. Flannel is strongly recommended. Exposure to the summer-sun should as much as possible be avoided. According to a Roman proverb, dogs and foreigners (Inglesi) alone walk in the sun, Christians in the shade. Um- brellas, and spectacles of coloured glass (grey, concave glasses to protect the whole eye are best) may be used with advantage when a walk in the sun is unavoidable. Repose during the hottest hours is advisable, a siesta of moderate length refreshing. Windows should be closed at night. English and German medical men are to be met with in the larger cities. The Italian therapeutic art does not enjoy a very high reputation in the rest of Europe. German and English chemists, where available, are recommended in preference to the Italian. It may, however, be a wise discretion in maladies arising from local causes to employ native skill. 1. From Paris to Nice by Lyons and Marseilles. Railway to Marseilles in 24 (express in I6I/4) hrs. ; fares 96 fr. 65, s.72 fr. 50, 53 fr. 15 c. (Express from Paris to Lyons in 9, ordinary trains 123/4 hrso fares' 57 fr. 35, 43 fr., 31 fr. 55 c. From Lyons to Marseilles express in 62/3, ordinary trains ll 1 / 4 hrs.$ fares 39 fr. 30, 29 fr. 50, 21 fr. 60 c.). From Marseilles to Nice in 71/2 (express in 6) hrs. : fares 25 fr. 20, 18 fr. 90, 13 fr. 85 c. Soon after quitting Paris the train crosses the Marne near its confluence with the Seine at the station of Charenton (the lunatic asylum is on an eminence to the left). Alfort, on the opposite hank of the Marne, possesses a Yeterinary School. To the right and left rise the forts of Ivry and Charenton which here com- mand the course of the Seine. Villeneuve St. Georges, a place of some importance, with a suspension-hridge over the Seine, is picturesquely situated on the slope of a wooded eminence. To the r. a branch-line to Corbeil diverges. The beautiful green dale of the Yeres, a small but deep river, bordered with rows of willows and poplars, is now traversed. Picturesque country residences, small parks and thriving mills are passed in rapid succession. The next stations are Montgeron and Brunoy. The chain of hills to the left, as well as the plain, are studded with innume- rable dwellings. Brunoy , charmingly situated in the midst of plantations, is inhabited almost exclusively by wealthy Parisians and retired men of business. Before Brunoy is reached the train crosses the Yeres, and beyond the village passes over a viaduct which affords an ad- mirable prospect. The valley of the Yeres is now quitted, and the district be- comes flatter. Stations Combs-la-Ville, Lieusaint and Cesson. The S^ine is again reached and crossed by a handsome iron bridge at Melun ( Hotel de France), an ancient town with a po- pulation of 11,000, known to the Romans (“ Mel 0 dunum oppidum. Senonum in insula Sequanae positum.” Csesar, De B. Gall. 7), and picturesquely situated on an eminence above the river. The Baedeker. Italy I. 1 2 Route 1. FONTAINEBLEAU. From Paris Church of Notre Dame, dating from the 10th cent., and the modern Gothic Town-hall are fine edifices. After affording several picturesque glimpses of the valley of the Seine, the train reaches the forest of Fontainebleau. The last station is Bois-le-Roi. The station of Fontainebleau is situated upwards of 1 M. from the palace. The town [Hotel de Londres ; Aigle Noir; Hotel de France a Cafe adjoins the Aigle Noir) itself, a quiet place with broad and clean streets (popul. 10,500), contains nothing to arrest the attention of the stranger, except perhaps the Statue of General Damesme, erected in 1851, in the Place du Palais de Justice. The *Palace, an extensive pile, containing five courts (Cour du Cheval Blanc , Cour de la Fontaine , . Cour Ovale or du Donjon , Cour des Princes and Cour des Cuisines or de Henri 1VJ, is al- most exclusively indebted for its present form to Francis I. (d. 1547) and abounds in interesting historical reminiscences. In the great entrance court, the Cour du Cheval Blanc, also termed the Cour des Adieux , the Emperor Napoleon I. bade farewell to his guards on April 20th, 1814, previous to his departure for Elba. The interior of the palace (accessible during the absence of the Emperor, fee 1 fr.) consists of a series of sumptuous sa- loons and apartments, among which may be mentioned the Galerie de Francois the Salle d’ Abdication, where Napoleon I. signed his abdication, the Salle du Trone , the Galerie de Diane, the Galerie des Cerfs , in which Queen Christina of Sweden caused her favourite Monaldeschi to be put to death in 1657, and the Galerie de Henri II. The Jardin Anglais in the rear of the pa- lace, contains a pond with the venerable carp of Fontainebleau. (For farther details see Bcedekers Parish) The *Forest of Fontainebleau occupies an area of 50,000 acres (60 M. in circumference) and affords a number of delightful walks, e. g. to the Rochers et Gorges de Franchard , the Roche qui pleure, the Rochers et Gorges d’Apremont and Bas Breau. Next stat. Thomery , celebrated for its luscious grapes (Chas- selas de Fontainebleau). Stat. Moret, a venerable town on the Loing, which here falls into the Seine, possesses a Gothic church of the 13th cent, and a ruined chateau once occupied by Sully. (Railway hence to Montargis, Nevers , Mouljns and Vichy f) to Nice. AUXERRE. 1. Route. 3 The line crosses the valley of the Loing by a viaduct of 30 arches. Stat. St. Mammes; then Montereau (Grand Monarque), picturesquely situated at the confluence of the Seine and Yonne. Here on Feb. 18th, 1814, Napoleon gained his last victory over the Allies and the Prince of Wirtemberg. (Branch-line to Flam- loin, stat. on the Paris and Troyes line.) The train ascends the broad and well cultivated valley of the Yonne. Sens (Hotel de VEcu ), the ancient capital of the Se- nones, who under Brennus plundered Rome (B.C. 390), the Age- dincum of the Romans, is now a quiet and clean town with 12,000 inhab. The early Gothic * Cathedral (St. Etienne) dates from the 12th cent.; magnificent S. Portal in the Flamboyant style. Ancient stained glass and several monuments in the choir. The episcopal vestments and other relics of Thomas a Becket, who sought an asylum at Sens in 1164, are shown. Thu cathe- dral bells are among the finest in France, one of them weighing, upwards of 17 tons. Joigny (Due de Bourgogne) , the Joviniacum of the Romans^ is a picturesque and ancient town (6000 inhab.) on the Yonne, Next stat. La Roche. From La Roche by a branch-line in 52 min. to Auxerre (H6tel dti Leopard), capital (13,000 inhab.) of the Department of the Yonne, possessing several good churches, especially the late Gothic cathedral. Chablis , well known for its wines, lies between Auxerre and Tonnerre (see below), 131/2 M. to the E. of the former. Near La Roche the line crosses the Yonne, into which the Armangon here empties itself, and follows the latter river and % the Canal de Bourgogne , connecting the Seine and Saone. About 6 M. from St. Florentin is the Cistercian Alley of Pontigny, where Thomas a Becket passed two years of his exile. Langton, archbishop of Canterbury, banished by John, and other English prelates have also sought a retreat within its walls. Tonnerre (Lion d) Or ; *Rail. Restaurant), picturesquely situated on the Arman^on, a town with 5000 inhab., possesses a monument to the minister Louvois (d. 1691). The church of St. Pierre , on: an eminence above the town, commands a pleasing prospect. Stat. Tanlay possesses a fine chateau in the Renaissance* style, founded by the brother of Admiral Coligny, the chief victim of St. Bartholomew’s Night, who with the Prince de Conde and other Huguenot leaders held meetings in one of the apartments, 1 * 4 Route 1. DIJON. From Paris Then a tunnel, 540 yds. in length; bridge over the Armainjon; tunnel 1020 yds. long, and the canal and Armangon are again crossed. From stat. Nuits-sous-Ravieres a branch-line to Chdtillon- sur-Seine and Bricon. Montbard , birthplace (1707) of Buffon, the great naturalist (d. at Paris in 1788), contains his chateau and a monument to his memory. Beyond stat. Blaisy-Bas the line penetrates the culminating ridge, or watershed (1244 ft.), between the Seine and the Rhone by a long tunnel (2 V 4 M.). Hence to Dijon a succession of viaducts, cuttings and tunnels. Beyond stat. Malain, with its ruined chateau, the line enters the picturesque' valley of the Ouche , bounded on the r. by the slopes of the Cote d’Or. Bijou (Hotel de la Cloche; du Pare; *du Jura, new, near the station, R. 2, D. 31/2 > B - 1, A- \/% fr - De la Gal ere; de Bourgogne; du Nord; de Geneve, the last four of the second class. Rail. Restaurant; *Cafe adjoining the theatre. Brasserie Alsacienne , Place St. Etienne, opposite the theatre), with 37,074 inhab., the ancient capital of the Duchy of Burgundy, is now that of the Department de la Cote d’Or. For upwards of four centuries, from 1015 to the death of Charles the Bold in 1477, this was the residence of the Dukes of Burgundy. The monuments of that period impart a higher interest to this plea- sant and cheerful town. The Rue Ouillaume leads from the station to the centre of the town, where the *Palais des Etats , the ancient residence of the Dukes, is situated. After various vicissitudes the edifice was remodelled during the last century and converted into an 0 Hotel de Ville. It contains the Museum (principal court to the r. in the Place d’Armes; admission gratis on Sundays and holi- days 12—3 o’clock, at other times for a fee of 1 fr.), with col- lections of engravings, statues, casts, antique vases and smaller antiquities. The *S all e des Gardes, formerly the Burgundian banqueting hall, contains a large old chimney-piece; *3 altar- cabinets with beautiful wood- carving (14th cent.) ; the Monument of Jean sans Peur and his consort Margaret, dating from 1444, with their statues and lions at their feet; still finer the *Monument of Philip the Bold , date 1390, with frieze adorned with 40 statuettes of celebrated contemporaries. Both these monuments were destroyed during the Revolution, but restored in 1828. The Picture Gallery contains about 500 works, most of them me- diocre; 434. Portrait of Charles the Bold, master unknown; 291. Hem- ling (?), Adoration of the Shepherds; 61. Gagneraux, Condd’s passage of to Nice. BEAUNE. 1. Route. 5 the Rhine; 318., 319. Rubens, Sketches*, 159. Prudhon, Portrait; 399. P. Ve- ronese, Finding of Moses; 410. Copy of Raphael’s School of Athens; 147. Nattier , Portrait of Maria Lesczinska; 31. Coypel, Sacrifice of Jephtha; 373. Domenichino (?), St. Jerome; 367. Bassano , The Disciples at Emmaus ; 306. Meulen, Siege of Besancon, 1674 ; 24. Colson, Sleeping girl ; 265. Cham- paigne, Presentation in the Temple. The adjacent second court contains the Musee Ar ch e ol o gi qu e (fee 50 c.). 1st Room: Ancient and mediaeval bronzes, weapons, keys, carronades etc. — 2nd R. : Mediaeval sculptures and tombstones. — 3rd R. : Ancient sculptures and tombstones from the Castrum Divionense (the Rom. Dijon), milestones, remains of an ancient boat found in the Loire in 1859 The concierge also shows the vast kitchen of the Dukes, erected in 1445. The doors belong to the period of the original structure. Far tli er E. is the church of St. Michael, with a fagade in which the Gothic and Renaissance styles are strangely combined, conse- crated in 1529. — *Notre Dame (N. of the Palais), consecrated in 1445, possessing a peculiar unfinished portico of the 13th cent., is more purely Gothic. — The principal church is that of *St. Be- nigne (S. of the Porte Guillaume), which has undergone frequent restoration, with portal of the 10th cent. In the vicinity are St. Philibert, of the 12th cent., and St. Jean, consecrated in 1468, the latter now disfigured by modern paintings. The Castle (N. of the Porte Guillaume), now in a half-ruined condition, was erected by Louis XI. (in 1478—1512), after the union of Burgundy with France. It was subsequently employed as a state-prison. — Pursuing the same direction round the town the stranger next reaches the bronze Statue of St. Bernhard (born in 1091 at Fontaine lez Dijon), erected in 1847; round the pe- destal are celebrated contemporaries. The town contains a number of picturesque buildings of the Renaissance period, especially interesting to architects. The former ramparts are converted into , promenades. — Dijon is the nucleus of the wine-traffic of Upper Burgundy. The line to Macon crosses the Ouche and the Canal de Bourgogne (p. 3) and skirts the base of the sunny vineyards of the Cote d'Or, which extend almost the entire ' distance from Dijon to Chalons and produce the choicest qualities of the Bur- gundy wines ( Chambertin , Clos de Beze , Clos de Vougeot, Romanee, Tache, Nuits, Beaune etc.). To the r. of stat. Corgoloin is the village of Aloxe, another well-known wine -producing place ( Corton , Charlemagne, Clos du Roi ). Stat. Beaune, with 11,000 inhab., on the Bouzoise , a town with several Gothic edifices and ■6 Route 1. MACON. From Paris a monument of the mathematician Monge, who was horn here in 1747 (d. 1818). From stat. Chagny a hranch-line diverges to Creuzot. The line passes under the Canal du Centre , which connects the Saone and the Loire, hy means of a tunnel, intersects the Col de Chagny and enters the valley of the Tlialie. Chalons -sur-Saone ( Trois Faisans: Hotel du Chevreuil; Hotel de V Europe) with 19,000 inhab., the Cabillonum of the Romans, is situated at the junction of the Canal du Centre with the Saone, which is here navigated hy steamboats (to Lyons in 5 — 6 hrs.). The town contains little to detain the traveller. The early Go- thic Cathedral , recently restored, exhibits the transition to that style from the Romanesque. (The express trains do not touch Chalons, the branch line to which diverges from the junction St. Cosme). The line follows the r. hank of the Saone; to the 1. in the distance the Jura is visible; to the r. in clear weather the snowy summit of Mont Blanc, 150 M. distant. Stat. Tournus (5500 inhab.) possesses a fine abbey-church (St. Philibert). Macon (Hotels du Sauvage , des Champs Ely sees, de V Europe; Rail. Restaurant), capital of the Department of the Saone and the Loire, with 18,000 inhab., is another great focus of the wine- trade. The remains of the early Romanesque cathedral of St. Vin- cent are interesting to architects. The line now continues to follow the r. bank of the Saone. Scenery pleasing. The stations between Macon and Lyons, thir- teen in number, afford little to interest the traveller. Lyons see p. 8. From Strasbourg (Bale) to Lyons by Miilhausen, Besangon and JBourg, the most direct route between the S.W. of Germany and S. France, (Railway from Strasbourg to Miilhausen in 21/2 hrs.; fares 12 fr. 30, 0 fr. 25 c. ; from Bale to Miilhausen in 1 hr., fares 3 fr. 70, 2 fr. 25 c.; from Miilhausen to Lyons in 121/2 hrs., fares 42 fr. 80, 32 fr. 10, 23 fr. 50 c.) Miilhausen is the junction of the Bale-Strasbourg and the Bale-Paris lines. The first station of importance is Belfort (6000 inhab.), a fortress on the Savoureuse, erected by Vauban under Louis XI V. ; the Paris line diverges here. The train now traverses a picturesque, undulating district; to the 1. rise the spurs of the Jura. Stat. Hiricourt , then Montbiliard , which appertained to the German Empire until 1793. Beyond stat. Voujacourt the line follows the course of the Doubs, which it crosses several times. Then stat. L'Jsle-sur-le-Doub , to Nice. BESA||ON. 1. Route. / beyond which eleven tunnels are passed through. Several unimportant stations, then A . . . ., Besancon (*Hdtel du Ford, Eue Moncey, E. 2, D. 3, A. l/ 2 omnibus to the station 60 c, ; Paris , Europe), the ancient Vesontio , capital of the Sequani was till 1654 a town of the German Empire, in 1674 conquered by Louis XIV. and united with France. Itr is now the capital of Franche Comte, with 46^786 inhab.' Its peculiar situation in a wide basin, on the Doubs , which flows round the town and one rendered it an important military point, is described by Caesar (De B. GaL I. 38-). The substantial, old-fashioned architecture of the town is interesting, and modern innovations are comparatively rarely encountered. One of the finest structures of the 16th cent, is the H6M de Ville in the Place St. Pierre, bearing the civic motto: Deo et Caesari fidelis perpetuo. The *Museum L established in a modern building in the Place de l’Abondanc.e (admission on Sundays 1—4 o’clock gratis , at other times bayment of a fee). The vestibule and the staircases are adorned with Eoman inscrip- tions and antiquities. The principal saloon contains pictures: I. *92; A. Diirer , Christ on the Cross, at the foot of whieh is the Mater Dolorosa, surrounded by 6 medallions representing the principal scenes from the life of Christ, on the wings prophets ; r. 116. Gaetano , Portrait on copper of Cardinal Granvella (born at Besancon in 1517 , minister of Philip II. in the Netherlands, viceroy Of Naples and president of the privy council of Spain, d. at Madrid in 1586); *46. Bronzino , Descent from the Cross; 157. Key, Count Palatine Frederick III. ; r. 183. Girl with a dove, painted by the Empress Marie Louise, - The other saloons contain casts and antiquities , weapons and implements of the Celtic and Eoman periods found in the neighbourhood , etc. - The Library (open to the public on Mond., Wed. and Sat, 12—5 o’clock), founded in 1694 by Boisot, contains 100 000 vols., about 1800 MSS., a collection of coins etc. In the principal street, the Grande Rue , which ascends from the Pont de la Madeleine to the citadel, is situated the Palais GranveUe, a handsome structure in the Eenaissance style (1530—40). Farther on is the * Porte Noire , a triumphal arch of the late Eoman period, of very graceful pro- portions and adorned with sculptures, and reliefs, most of which are almost obliterated. The date of its erection is unknown. The r. side has been restored. The traveller next reaches the * Cathedral of St. Jean, dating from several different epochs , restored for the last time during the past century. On the side of the entrance (W.) the 1st chapel contains the monument of the archdeacon Ferrico Carondelet (d. 1528); above it the Death of Sapphira, by Seb: del Piombo. In the chapel on the 1. the ^Virgin surrounded by angels with SS. Sebastian, John , Dominicus and the two founders of the picture, by Fra Bartolom- meo, in admirable preservation, but unfortunately not favourably hung. The street ascends hence to the Citadel , constructed by Vauban (per- mission to visit it must be obtained from the commandant in the town). The summit commands an admirable view. At the base of the citadel (8 min. walk from the Porte de Eivotte) , on the river , is situated the Porte Taillie , originally appertaining to a Eoman aqueduct, subsequently widened so as to form a gateway. 8 Route 1. LYONS. From Paris Beyond Besancon the line crosses to the r. bank of the Doubs, crosses the Dijon and Neuchatel line, passes three small stations and reaches stat. Lons-le-Saulnier , chief town of the Department of the Jura, with 8000 inhab. Near the town are celebrated saline springs; beyond it the Chateau Montmorot , birthplace of General Lecourbe. Stat. St. Amour. The line then crosses the rivers Solman and Sevron. Stat. St. Etienne du Bois , pleasantly situated, then Bourg, see p. 35, where the journey hence to Lyons is also de- scribed. From Geneva to Lyons Railway in 5 3 /4 hrs., fares 18 fr. 80, 14 fr. 10, 10 fr. 35 c. From Geneva to Amberieu see p. 36. The Lyons line here diverges from that to Macon and proceeds towards the S.W. Pic- turesque district, presenting a series of pleasing landscapes. Beyond stat. Leyment the line crosses the Ain, commanding a beautiful glimpse of the valley of that stream. Then several unimportant places. Near Lyons the line intersects the suburbs of La Croix Rousse and La Guilloti'ere and soon reaches the extensive station (at Lyon-Perrache). Lyons. *Grand Hotel de Lyon, Rue Imperiale, in the Pari- sian style, with restaurant, cafd etc., R. 3, B. 1/2 j A. 1 fr.; *Grand Hotel Collet, Rue Imperial e 60; Hotel de l 1 Europe, Place Belle- cour , R. 2 — 3, D. 4 fr. ; these three hotels are of the highest class. Grand Hotel des Beaux Arts; *H6teldel’Univers, Rue Bour- bon; Hotel du Havre et du Luxembourg, Rue St. Dominique 3, R. 21/2 , L. 75 c , D. 31 / 2 , A. 1 fr. ; Beauquis, Place Bellecour; Hotel de Bonne, adjoining the cathedral, on the r. bank of the Saone; Hotel de Milan, Place des Terreaux. — Restaurants: Maison Doree, Place Bellecour; Bavout, Place de la Prefecture etc. — Numerous cafes in the Rue du Perra, Place Imperiale etc. — Brasserie , in the Cours Napoleon, near the station. — Omnibus from the station to the town 50, with luggage 75 c.; hotel-omnibus 1— II/2 fr. — Fiacres per drive 1 fr. 75 c., per hour 2 fr., luggage free (from midnight to 7 a. m. per drive 2 fr. 25, per hour 3 fr. — Bains du Rhdne , Rue du Perra. — English Church Service , resident chaplain. Lyons , the ancient Lugdunum , which from the time of Augustus gave its name to one-third part of Gaul, is now the second city in France, with 300,000 inhab., and the most important manufacturing-place. Silk is the great staple commodity. Lyons is an archiepiscopal see. As an episcopal residence it is men- tioned at a very early period. The first bishop St. Potinus is said to have suffered martyrdom in 177, during a fearful perse- cution of the Christians under Marcus Aurelius, which raged here as well as at Yienne and Autun. The situation of the city at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone is imposing. The Saone is crossed by 10, the Rhone by 7 bridges. Of the latter the Pont de la Ouillotiere is the most to Nice. LIONS. 1. Route. 9 ancient; its construction is erroneously attributed to Pope In- nocent IV. (1190). Lyons ; is one of the best built towns in France. Grand alterations have been accomplished within the last 50 years, so that the general aspect of the city is modern. It consists of three distinct portions, the original town on the tongue of land between the Rhone and Saone, the suburbs of Les Broteaux and La Guillotiere on the 1. bank of the Rhone and the suburb of Vaise on the r. bank of the Saone. The city is guarded by 18 forts, which form an extensive circle of nearly 12 M., extending from Ste. Foy and Fourvieres and the heights above the suburb of La Croix Rousse ( connected with the city by means of a curious railway on an inclined plane, fares 15 and 10 c.) to Les Broteaux and Guillotiere. The beauty of the situation and the extent of the city are best appreciated when viewed from the ** Height of Fourvieres , crowned by its conspicuous church, to which a number of different ways lead. The direct route is between the handsome mo- dern Palais de Justice and the cathedral, through narrow and steep streets, passing the hospital of Les Antiqualles, which occupies the site of the ancient Roman palace where Claudius and Caligula were born. The stranger may now continue to follow the main street, or he may proceed by the “Passage Abrege” (5 c.), which leads past gardens, vineyards, and a number of fragments of Roman masonry, with explanations attached to them, which however are not to be implicitly trusted. This footpath leads to the Observatoire on the summit, not far distant from the church of * Notre Dame de Fourvilres , which contains a highly revered miraculous image of the Virgin (visited by up- wards of 1V 2 million pilgrims annually) and numerous votive tablets. The church is a modern structure, surmounted by a gilded statue of the Madonna. The terrace adjoining it commands a noble prospect, which is still more, extensive from the tower (25 c.). A more picturesque view, however, is enjeyed from the so-called “ Observatoire” already mentioned, a small wooden tower (50 c.) in the vicinity, the route to which is indicated by sign- posts, At the feet of the spectator lie the imposing, city with its environs, the two rivers and their bridges, and the well culti- vated district in the neighbourhood; E. in tine weather Mont Blanc, 85 M. distant, is sometimes visible, farther S. the Alps of 10 Route l. LYONS, From Paris Da up bine , the Mts. of the Grande Chartreuse and Mont Pilat, W. the Mts. of Auvergne. The Cathedral of St. Jean Baptiste on the r. hank of the Saone, adjoining the Palais de Justice, a structure of the 13th cent., possesses several remarkable features, a fine central tower, stained glass windows and a curious and complicated clock of 1508, resembling that of Strasbourg. The Bourbon chapel (1st on the r.) erected by Cardinal Bourbon and his brother Pierre de Bourbon’ son-in-law of Louis XI., contains some fine sculptures. On the 1. bank of the Saone, about Y 2 M. lower down,, is situated the church of the Abbey d'Ainay , one of the oldest in France, dating from the 10th cent., the vaulting of which is borne by four antique columns of granite. Its Latin name was Athenaeum , supposed to be derived from the fact that Caligula once founded an Athenaeum , or school of rhetoric, here. Beneath the sacristy are the former dungeons. In the Place des Terreaux, in which the Hotel de Ville and the Museum are situated, Richelieu caused the youthful Marquis de Cinq-Mars, who for a brief period was the favourite of Louis XIII., and his partisan de Thou to be executed as traitors, Sept. 12th, 1642. Numerous victims here perished by the guillotine in 1794, until the more wholesale system of drowning and shooting was introduced. In the Hotel de Ville , a handsome edifice of the 17th cent. (1647- 55) the revolutionary Tribunal, under the presidency of Collot d’Herbois, held its sessions. This miscreant, who had previously been an actor and whose, performances had been hissed at Lyons, availed himself of this opportunity to wreak his revenge on the unfortunate citizens. He was subsequently banished to Cayenne, where he died in 1796. In the Avenue des Martyrs (in the quarter Les Broteaux) a chapel has been erected to the memory of the 2100 victims who here perished during the Revolution. In the Palais des Beaux Arts , or Museum (admission gratis daily 9 — 3 o’clock), under the arcades of the spacious court, are some remarkable Roman antiquities, a taurobolium (sacrifice of oxen), the *brazen tablets (found in 1528) with the speech de- livered by the Emperor Claudius before the senate at Rome in the year 48, in defence of the measure of bestowing the rights of citizenship on the Gauls; altars, inscriptions, sculptures etc. to Nice. LYONS. 1. Route. 1 1 On the first floor is the Picture Gallery. Salle des Anciens Maitres : in the centre 4 Roman mosaics, representing Orpheus, Cupid and Pan and the games of the circus. Among the pictures may be mentioned: 1. 54. Charlet, Episode from the Russian campaign-, 171. Ann. Caracci, Portrait of a priest; 102. Beem, Breakfast; G. Lesueur, Martyrdom of SS. Gervasius and Protasius; 82. Rubens , Intercession of the saints with Christ; 108. School of Rembrandt, Martyrdom of St. Stephen; 151. Greenenbraeck , View of Paris in 1741; 115. Terburg , The Message; 210. Rickaert, The miser; 164. Bordone , Titian'’ s mistress; 178. Carletto Veronese , Queen of Cyprus; 46. Girard , Corinna; 92. Breughel , The four elements; 117. Teniers the Y., Liberation of St. Peter; 80. Moreeleze, Portrait; 257- Sassoferrato, Ma- donna. — R. 140. SchalJcen, The smokers; *169. Palma Giovane, Scourging of Christ; 112. Qyellyn, St. Jerome; 106. Ph. de Champaign e, Finding of the relics of §t. Gervasius and St. Protasius ; *156. Pietro Perugino, Ascen- sion, one of this master’s finest works, painted in 1495 for the cathedral of Perugia and carried off by the French; it was reclaimed in 1815, but presented to Lyons by Pope Pius VII.; 160. Seb. del Ptombo, Repose of Christ; 21. Jouvenet, Christ expelling the money-changers; 99. Van Dyck, Studies; *186. Guerctno, Circumcision; 155. Perugino, SS. James and Gre- gory; *73. Durer , Madonna and the Child, bestowing bouquets of roses on the Emp. Maximilian and his consort, a celebrated picture containing nume- rous figures, painted by the master at Venice in 1506, originally preserved in the Imperial Gallery at Vienna, brought to Paris by Napoleon I. and presented to Lyons; 83. Rubens, Adoration of the Magi; 197. Zurbaran (?), Corpse of St. Francis; 161. A. del Sarto, Abraham’s sacrifice. — One story higher is the Galerie des Peintres Lyonnais : Bonnefonds, Portrait of Jacquard, inventor of the improved loom, born at Lyons in 1752, died 1834 ; also busts of the celebrated Lyonnese Philibert Delorme (d. at Paris 1577), the botanist Bernard Jussieu (1699—1776), Marshal Suchet etc. The Musee des Antiques, also in the first floor, contains antique and mediaeval bronzes , coins and various curiosities ; among them a treasure found in 1841 on the height of Fourvieres, comprising necklaces, bracelets and other trinkets and coins, buried during the Roman period. Head of Juno in bronze, Gallic weapons, vases from Athens etc. — There is also a Musie d'Histoire Naturelle here, containing zoological and mine- ralogical collections. — Finally a Library. The second floor of the Palais du Commerce et de la Bourse contains the Musee d'Art et d' Industrie , founded in 1858; the specimens in illustration of the silk-culture are particularly in- structive (admission daily 11 — 5 o’clock). The Civic Library, possessing 150,000 vols. and 2400 MSS., is situated on the hank of the Rhone. In the vicinity rises the bronze Statue of Marshal Suchet (born at Lyons in 1770, d. 1826), “Due d’Albuf era” , who once served as a merchant’s apprentice in the adjacent house. Two new magnificent streets, the Rue lmperiale und the flue de V Imperatrice , lead from the Hotel c|e Ville to the Place 12 Route 1. LYONS. From Paris Louis le Grand , or *Bellecour , one of the most spacious squares in Europe, which was destroyed during thfe Revolution in 1794, hot subsequently restored and adorned with a Statue of Louis XIV. in 1825. The Place Napoleon contains a Statue of Napoleon I. Be- tween the Bellecour and this Place the most aristocratic quarter of Lyons is situated. Beyond the latter, occupying the entire point of the tongue of land between the rivers, is the suburb Perrache , named after its founder (1770) and still rapidly in- creasing. The traveller may proceed as far as the point of union of the Rhone and Saone (IV 4 'M. from the railway-station Perrache } omnibus from the Place de la Charite to the Pont de Mulatiere 25 c,), where the rivers are separated by a breakwater. It is interesting to observe the characters of the two streams. The Rhone, a genuine mountain-river, is . clear and rapid, whilst the current of the sluggish and muddy Saone is scarcely perceptible. Steamboats ply on both rivers. The starting-place of the Steamboats is near the Place Napoleon: to Avignon every morning in 7—10 hrs., to Arles in 13 hrs. (fares 30, 20, 10 fr.). Stations Vienne , T our non , Valence, Avignon , Beaucaire,, Arles. Those whom time permits will find the steamboat-journey more enter- taining than the railway. The former distantly resembles a trip on the Rhine, but the scenery of the Rhone is less striking and the steamers (“papins”) far inferior. The Jardin des Plantes at the Croix Rousse has since the construction of the railway been converted into a square (near it is the Place Sathonay with the bronze Statue of Jacquard by Foyatier) and is superseded by the *Place de la Tete d'Or , on the 1. bank of the Rhone, at the N. extremity of the Quai d’Albert (1 M. from the Place des Terreaux), containing rare plants, hothouses and pleasure-grounds in the style of the Bois de Boulogne at Paris. The Railway to Marseilles (from the station in the Per- rache suburb) crosses the Rhone, affording a glimpse of the im- posing city and the picturesque church of Fourvieres rising above it, passes La Guillotiere (p. 9) and traverses an attractive dis- trict surrounded by mountains. Stations Saint-Fons, Feysin with handsome chateau on the Rhone, Serezin, Chasse, Estressin and Vienne ( *Hotel Ombry , R 1 i f 2 — 2 fr. ; du Nord ; Table Ronde, R. 2, D. 3, A. 1 fr.), the Vienna Allobrogum of the ancients, with a popul. of 19,678, lies on the 1. bank of the Rhone, at to Nice. YTENNE. 7. Route.. 13 the influx of the Gere. Several interesting mementoes of its former greatness are still extant. The so-called *Temple of Augustus , of the Corinthian order, with 16 columns, six forming the front, is approached from the ancient forum by 12 steps, in the middle of which stands an altar. The edifice was used in the middle ages as a church and seriously disfigured, but has been restored as nearly as possible to its original condition. It formerly contained a Museum of Roman antiquities which has been temporarily removed to the Hotel de Yille and will even- tually be transferred to *St. Pierre, an ancient basilica of the 6th. cent., disfigured during the past century, but now under- going .'restoration. (Those who contemplate a visit to the temple and church should apply to the architect M. Quonin , Place St. Maurice 9. The works now in progress will probably not be completed for several years.) — The * Cathedral of St. Maurice (between the temple and the bridge across the Rhone) , com- menced at the close of the 11th cent., but not completed till 1515, possesses a fine facade of the transition period. The in- terior is the most ancient part of the edifice. — On the high road, V 4 M. S. of the town, stands an archway surmounted by an obelisk termed the *Plan de V Aiguille, which once served as the meta (goal) of a circus. The visitor should return hence to the town by the river. — The remains of antiquity on Mont Pipet are insignificant. Yienne is not visible from the railway which passes through a tunnel beneath part of the town. * Immediately beyond the town rises the Plan de V Aiguille, mentioned above. The banks of the Rhone rise in gentle slopes, planted with the vine, and fruit-trees. On the r. bank, at some distance from the river, towers Mont Pilat (3516 ft.), a picturesque group of mountains, at the base of which lie the celebrated vineyards of La Cote Rotie. The line continues to follow the course of the Rhone, at some distance from the river. Several small stations, then St. Rambert (branch-line to Grenoble, p. 14). Ruined castles and ancient watch towers are occasionally seen on the adjacent heights. Beyond stat. St. Vallier rises the Chateau de Vais, near which is the Roche Taillee. Farther on are the pinnacles of the Chateau de Ponsas, where Pontius Pilate is said to have resided during his exile. 14 Route 1. VALENCE. From Paris Stat. Serves ; then Tam, where the valley of the Rhone con- tracts; on the 1. rises the extensive vineyard of Ermitage, where the well known wine of that name is produced. In the dis- tance to the 1. the indented spurs of the Alps are cohspicuous, above which in clear weather the gigantic Mont Blanc is visible. Tain is connected by means of a suspension-bridge with Tournon, on the opposite hank, a small town with picturesque old castles of The Counts of Tournon and Dukes of Soubise. On the 1. a view is now disclosed of the broad valley of the Isere (ascending towards the Little St. Bernard), on which Grenoble , the ancient Gularo , subsequently Qratianopolis , capital of the Department of the Isere, is situated. In September, B. C. 218, Hannibal ascended this valley with his army, crossed the Little St. Bernard and the Alps within 15 days and during the same autumn gained the signal victories of the Ticinus and the Trebia over the Romans. Stat. Roche- de-Glun. The train crosses the Isere and commands a view of the snowy summits of Mont Blanc to the 1. To the r. lies St. Peray with its far-famed vineyards, on the limestone pinnacles beyond which stand the ruins of the Chateau de Crussol, once the seat of the Crussol family, Dukes of Uzes. Then, on the opposite bank, Valence (Lion d'Or ; Tete d'Or, both of humble pretension; *Cafe Armand) , the Valentia of the ancients, once the capital of the Duchy of Valentinois , with which the infamous Caesar Borgia was invested by Louis XII. It is now the chief town, with 18,711 inhab., of the Department of the Drome. The situation is picturesque , but there is little else to arrest the traveller’s attention. The principal curiosities are a few anti- quated houses, e. g. that of the Mistral family, termed Le Pen- dentif , near the cathedral, date 1548; another in the Grande Rue, near the Place auc Clercs , with quaint decorations in the style of the 16th cent. On the ground -floor of No. 4 in the same street Napoleon once lodged when a sous-lieutenant of artillery. On Aug. 29th, 1799, Pope Pius VI. died in captivity at Valence. His bust with basrelief by Canova is preserved in the old Ro- manesque cathedral. The Museum, with collections of art and natural history, is insignificant. On the Rhone-promenade stands the monument of General Championnet (d. 1800), the conqueror of Naples, who was a native of Valence. The town is connected to Nice. ORANGE. 1. Route. 15 with the r. hank by a suspension -bridge. Branch -line hence to Grenoble (see p. 14) in 372 ^ rs - On the height above St. Peray rises the Chateau de Beauregard , erected, it is said, by Yauhan in the form of a mimic fortress, now converted into a vast depot for the highly esteemed produce of the neighbouring vineyards, the reputation of which is hardly in- ferior to that of Champagne itself. Stat. L’Etoile is picturesquely situated on the hill. Then Stat. Livron, where a branch line diverges r. to Privas. A short distance farther the influx of the Drome is observed on the 1.; the line crosses this river at stat. Loriol and again approaches the Rhone. Stat. Montelimart. The ancient castle of the once celebrated family of the Monteil d’Adhemar rises on an eminence from the midst of mulberry-trees. The line here quits the Rhone, the plain on the r. expands. The silk-culture has been successfully prosecuted in this district since the campaign of Charles VIII. against Italy in 1494. About 12 M. to the S.E. is situated the Chdteau de Orignan , once the seat of the son-in-law of Madame de S6vign6, burned down during the Revolution. The window at which the illustrious letter- writer is said to have sat is still shown. Mad. de S6vigue died here in 1696 in her 70th year and was interred in the church in the vicinity. On the r. bank, farther on, lies the episcopal residence of Viviers , once capital of the Vivarais, with a conspicuous eccle- siastical seminary. The railway runs to the 1. in the plain, by Chdteauneuf, Donzlre and Pierrelatte ; opposite the latter is Bourg St. Andeol, with a handsome suspension - bridge. Next stat. La Paludj then La Croisiere, which is also the station for Pont St. Esprit on the r. bank; the long stone bridge of the latter, with 26 arches, was constructed in 1265 — 1310. The river is not visible from the train. To the S.E. towers the majestic Mont Ventoux (6400 ft.). Stations Mondragon, Mornas, Piolenc and, situa- ted 3 M. from the Rhone, the small town of Orange (* Hotel des Princes ; Poste, R. 2, D- 3, A. 3 / 4 Griffon d’Or), the Arausio of the Romans and once a prosperous place of considerable importance. In the middle ages it was the capital of a small principality, which, on the death without issue of the last reigning prince in 1531, fell to his nephew the Count of Nassau, and until the death of William III. (d. 1702), king of England, continued subject to the house of Nassau-Orange. 16 Route!. CARPENTRAS. From Paris By the Peace of Utrecht Orange was annexed to France, and the house of Nassau retained the title only of princes of Orange. The antiquarian should if possible devote a few hours to the interesting Roman mementoes at Orange. On the road to Lyons, V 4 M. N. of the town, is a * Triumphal Arch , part of which is in good preservation, with three archways and 12 columns. The sculptures are sadly defaced; their style appears to point to the latter half of the 2 nd cent, as the period of their origin, not to the time of Marius or Augustus as has been conjectured. On the S. side of the town, at the base of an eminence, lies the *Roman Theatre, 121 ft. in height, 334 ft. in length, with walls 13 ft. in thickness (the custodian lives on the spot, i / 2 fr.). The ad- mirably preserved wall of the stage, from which an awning was wont to be stretched, still contains the-threfe doors from which the actors emerged. The semicircular space for the spectators, which rises opposite, is in a much more dilapidated condition; the tiers of seats have almost entirely vanished. The acoustic arrange- ment of the structure is admirable. Words spoken in a loud and distinct voice on the stage are perfectly audible on the highest tier. Scanty remnants of a Circus adjoin the theatre. The height above the theatre, once occupied by the citadel of Orange which was destroyed by Louis XIV., affords a good survey of the neighbourhood. The promenade is adorned with a statue of the Comte de Gasparin (d. 1862), an eminent agriculturist. Beyond Orange the line traverses a plain in which olives begin to indicate the proximity of a warmer climate, at a consi- derable distance from the Rhone and the mountains. Stations Courthezon and Bedarrides (a corruption of Biturrita, the "two- towered”). Stat. Sorgues lies on the river of that name, which descends from Vaucluse. Branch Railway from Sorg u e s to Carpentras in 3/ 4 hr. ; fares 3 fr., 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 65 c. — Carpentras ( Hotel Orient; Univers; Cafi Alcazar , opp. the Palais de Justice), the ancient Carpentoracte , is a manu- facturing town with 10,918 inhab. The first conspicuous edifice, as the town is entered, is the hospital, with a statue of the founder in front. Hence in a straight direction to the Palais de Justice , the court of which (application should be made to the concierge) contains a small Roman * Triumphal Arch of the 3rd cent. A. D. The sculptures on the side repre- sent two barbarians bound to a tree, on which trophies are suspended. The frieze and attica are wanting. Adjacent is the late Gothic church of St. Stverin , the S. portal of which merits notice. The town is en- to Nice. AVIGNON. 1. Route. 17 circled by ramparts with agreeable promenades, in which (1. from the station) the Museum containing antiquities and paintings is situated. Mont Ventoux (p. 18) bounds the horizon on the E. To the 1. on the Rhone is situated Roquemaure , commanded by an ancient tower, and supposed to he the locality where Hannibal accomplished the passage of the river when marching towards Italy. The train now soon affords a view of the papal palace and the towers of Avignon (*Hbtel de l’ Europe, R. 2, D. 37 2 , A. 1 fr. ; Hotel de Luxembourg ; Louvre, all 3/ 4 M. from the station, omnibus 50 c.), the Avenio of the Romans, with well preserved walls and towers which testify to its ancient importance. Under Louis XIV. the popul. amounted to 80,000 (now 36,000). The town was once a Roman colony, afterwards belonged to the Burgundians, then to the Franks, became capital of the County of Venaisin, lost its independence to Louis VIII. in 1226, fell into the hands of Charles of Anjou in 1290, was the residence of the popes from 1309 to 1377, seven of whom, from Clement V. (Bertrand de Goth) to Gregory XI., reigned here (the latter transferred his seat to Rome in 1377), and continued subject to the papal sway until it was annexed to France by the Revolution in 179 J. The town lies on the 1. bank of the Rhone, a short distance^ above the influx of the Durance, and is connected with Villeneuve on the opposite bank by a suspension-bridge. It is commanded by the abrupt Rocker des Dons (rapes dominorum), 300 ft. in height, which is surmounted by the Cathedral of Notre Dame, a structuie of the 14th cent., recently restored with little taste. The portico is of considerably earlier origin. The church contains the handsome ^monument of Pope John XXII. (Euse of Cahors), d. 1334, and that of Benedict XII. (d. 1342) in the 1. aisle. Immediately behind the cathedral is La Glaciere, a square tower which derives its appellation from an ice-cellar in the vicinity, it once served as the prison of the Inquisition, and during the eventful month of October, 1791, was the scene of the execution of 63 innocent victims. Near the cathedral rises the *Papal Palace (now a barrack), a lofty and gloomy pile, erected by Clemens V. and his successors, with huge towers and walls 100 ft. in height. The faded frescoes in the Chapelle du St. Office were executed in 1339 by Simone Memmi of Siena. Rienzi was incarcerated here in 1351 in the 2 Baedeker. Italy 1. 18 Route 1. AVIGNON. From Paris Tour des Oubliettes , at the same time as Petrarch was entertained as a guest. Opposite the palace stands the Ancienne Mairie, the mint of the papal period. The portal hears a relief representing flowers, armorial hearings etc. Pleasant grounds have been laid out on the hill near the cathedral. The best point of **View is a rocky eminence in the centre. The prospect, one of the most beautiful in France, embraces the course of the Rhone and its banks, Villeneuve on the opposite bank with its citadel and ancient towers, in the distance towards the N.W. the Cevennes, N.E. Mont Ventoux, E. the Durance, resembling a silver thread, beyond it the Alps, below the spectator the tortuous and antiquated streets of Avignon. At the base of the Rocher des Dons lies the Grande Place , with a number of handsome modern edifices. In front of the Theatre are statues of Racine and Moliere; the medallions above represent John XXII. and Petrarch. The neighbouring Hotel de Ville possesses* a quaint clock with figures which strike the hours. In front of it stands a Statue of Crillon, erected 1858. This hero was a scion of a Piedmontese family who settled in France in the 15th. cent.; he distinguished himself at the early age of 16 under the Duke of Guise, then under Francis of Lorraine and above all at the siege of Calais. He subsequently became a Knight of St. John and an intrepid antagonist of the Turks. He died at Avignon in 1615. His motto “Fais ton devoir 17 is inscri- bed on the pedestal of his statue. At the extremity of the Cours Bonaparte (on the 1. near St. Martial , a natural history Museum , interesting to the pro- fessional) the Rue Calade is entered to the r., where the hand- some edifice containing the *Musee Calvet is situated (porter ‘20 c., custodian 1 fr.). The Ground Floor contains a fine collection of Roman antiquities, reliefs and inscriptions; two monuments, found at \aison near Orange, are especially remarkable for their size and excellent preservation. On the First Floor is the Picture Gallery 80. Lor. di Credi, Ma- donna; 101. Eeckhout , Crucifixion; 106, Inn. da Imola, Madonna; three small pictures attributed to Iiolbein. The farther portion of the saloon is exclusively devoted to works of the Vernet family, natives of Avignon ( Joseph i the painter of Madonnas, his son Carle and his celebrated grand- son Horace ): Madonnas and sketches by Joseph , a Cossack by Carle , to Nice. VAUCLUSE. 1. Route. 19 *Mazeppa by Horace , in two copies, unfortunately retouched. — Also a collection of ancient and mediaeval coins, statuettes, crystal, lamps, sculp- tures of the Renaissance, furniture (a collection of republican assignats), cameos, engravings, drawings, a beautiful ivory Crucifix, executed in 1689 by J. Guillermin etc. — The Library contains 80,000 vols. and 2000 MSS. In the garden at the hack of the Museum a monument was erected in 1823 hy Mr. Charles Kensall to the memory of Petrarch’s Laura. Her tomb was formerly in the Eglise des Cordeliers, hut was destroyed with the church during the Revolution. In 1326, when Francesco Petrarca , then 22 years of age, visited Avignon, he beheld Laura de Noves , who was in her 18th year, at the church ot the monastery of St. Claire. Her beauty impressed the ardent young Italian so profoundly, that, although he never received the slightest token of regard from the object of his romantic attachment, either before or after her marriage with Hugues de Sade , he continued throughout his whole lifetime to celebrate her praises in songs and sonnets. In 1334 he quitted Avignon for Yaucluse, travelled in France, Germany and Italy and re- turned to Avignon in 1342 (with his friend Cola di Rienzi), where he found Laura the mother of a numerous family. She died in 1348, bowed down by domestic affliction. Petrarch lived till 1374, and long after Laura’s death dedicated many touching lines to her memory. The long and intimate connection of Avignon with Rome, as well as its reminiscences of Petrarch, may he said to invest the town with an almost Italian character. The whole of Provence indeed recals the scenery of the south more than any other district in France. The old city-wall, constructed of massive blocks of stone in 1349—68, with numerous gates, is admirably preserved and affords an interesting sample of the fortifications of that period. Avignon is a very windy place. The prevailing Mistral oftenhlows with great violence and has given rise to the ancient saying: Avenio Ventosa, Sine vento venenosa, Cum vento fastidiosa. The * Springs of Vaucluse , the praises of which have been celebrated by Petrarch', are frequently visited from Avignon (an excursion of 8 — 10hrs., one-horse carr. for 2pers. 10, two-horse 20 fr.*, railway in progress). The road leads from the Porte St. Lazare, crosses the Canal de Crillon , passes Le Thor and L'lsle , a village encircled by the waters of the Sorgue, then ascends the valley of this river, following its sinuosities towards Mont Vcntoux, and leads to the village of Vaucluse (Hotel de Laure). A foot- path leads hence in l/d hr. into the Vaucluse ravine, a rocky gorge, above which the ruined castle of the Bishops of Cavaillon rises on the r. At its extremity the sources of the Sorgue emerge from a profound grotto, 20 Route L TARASCON. From Paris at one time in precipitate haste, at another in gentle ripples. This spot is mentioned by Petrarch in his 14th Canzone : “Chiare, fresche e dolci acque.” Shortly after quitting Avignon the line crosses the broad bed of the often impetuous and turgid Durance , the Roman Druentia , which descends from the Alps to the Rhone. Olive-trees are abundant in this district. Stations Barbentane , Graveson and Tarascon ( Hotel des Empereurs, R. 1V 2 ,- D. 3, A. */ 2 fr.), once the seat of King Rene of Anjou, the great patron of minstrelsy, whose lofty old castle, and above it the Gothic spire of the church of St. Marthe (14th cent.) arrest the traveller’s attention. On the opposite hank, and connected with Tarascon by a bridge, is situated the busy town of Beaucaire , where an important annual market takes place in July, commanded by an ancient castle of the Counts of Toulouse. From Tarascon to St. Eemy (10 M., one-horse carr. for the ex- cursion 10 fr.). On the site of the ancient Glanum, -l/ 2 M. above the small town, are situated two interesting *Roman Monuments. One of these, 50 ft. in height, resembling the celebrated monument oflgel near Treves, was erected by the three brothers Sextus, Lucius and Marcus Julius to the memory of their parents. It is constructed of massive blocks of stone and consists of three different stories: the reliefs on the lowest represent battle scenes, above these are garlands and tragic masks; the next story con- sists of an open double arch; the third is a circular temple borne by 10 columns, with two portrait-statues. This magnificent relic belongs to the time of Caesar. Adjacent to it is a half-ruined *Triumphal Arch , also adorned with sculptures (Victoria with a prisoner), which appear to point to the victories of Marcus Aurelius. St. Remy, which lies on the barren limestone rocks of the Alpines , was the birthplace of the celebrated physician and astrologist Michael Nostradamus (1503—66), who stood high in the favour of Catharine de’ Medici. Railway from Tarascon to Nimes in 3/ 4 hr., fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 70 c. ; to Montpellier in 2 — 3hrs., fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr. 45, 4 fr. 75 c. The line traverses extensive olive-plantations, passing Beaucaire (see above). Nimes ( *H6tel de Luxembourg , on the Esplanade, R. 3, L. l/2> *!/2» D. 31/2^ A. 3/4 fr. ; Cheval Blanc , opp. the Arena; Hdtel Mannivet : Hdtel du Midi , Place de la Couronne ; Caf6 du Commerce, opp. the Arena ; Caf6 de V Univers, opp. the Maison Carree), the ancient Nemausus , capital of the Gallic Arecomaci, and one of the rnQst important places in Gallia Narbo- nensis, is now the chief town of the Department of the Gard, with 57,129 inhab. It is surrounded by agreeable Boulevards which terminate in a handsome modern fountain-group (representing the City of Nemausus, with 4 river-deities beneath) on the Esplanade, The extremely interesting Roman antiquities are not far distant from the station. The stranger first reaches the *Arena, or Amphitheatre , to Nice. NIM-ES. 1. Route. 21 consisting of two stories, each with 60 arcades, together 70 ft. in height. The exterior is in admirable preservation. The interior contains rem- nants of 32 tiers of seats , which are occasionally slightly repaired, as the Arena is still employed for the exhibition of bull-flghts (but of a bloodless character). The structure is 437 ft. long, and 332 ft. broad and could accommodate 23,000 spectators. The founder is unknown, but is believed to have lived in the reign of Antoninus Pius, about B.C. 140, the ancestors of the latter having been natives ofNemausus. The entrance is on the W. side, where a notice indicates the dwelling of the concierge (50 c.) The staircase is modern. The four original entrances are still recognised. A walk round the upper gallery is nearly 1/4 M. in length. In the middle ages the Arena was employed by the Visigoths and after- wards by the Saracens as a fortress. The next object of interest is the *Maison Carrie (the route to which passes the modern church of St. Paul ), a well preserved Temple (72 ft. long, 40 ft. wide), with 30 Corinthian columns (10 disengaged, 20 immured), dating from the reign of Augustus or Antoninus Pius, em- ployed as a church in the middle ages and subsequently as a town-hall. The inscription is conjectured (from the holes made by the nails by which it was formerly attached) to be as follows : C. CAESARI. AVGVSTI. F. COS. L. CAESARI. AVGVSTI. F. COS. DESIGNATO. PRINCIPIBVS. IVVENTVTIS., according to which the temple would appear to have been dedicated to Caius and Lucius Csesar, the grandsons of Augustus. The edifice is, however, probably of later origin, as the style of the deco- rations points rather to the age of the Antonines. This temple, moreover, was connected with other buildings , the foundations of which still exist, and in all probability constituted part of the ancient forum, like the similar Temple of Augustus at Vienne (p.13). It now contains a * Museum of antiquities and pictures, of which the following merit inspection. *2. Paul Delaroche, Cromwell at the coffin of Charles I. (painted 1831)5 *7. Xaver Sigalon, Narcissus and Locusta experimentalizing on a slave with the poison destined for Britannicus (1824) 5 74. Rigaud , Portrait of Turenne-, 38. Rubens , Head of a girl 5 109. Titian, John the Baptist 5 54. Greuze , Old woman; 21. Van Loo , Portrait of his mother; 112. Caravaggio, Portrait of a boy 5 45 Grimoux , A young girl. Also antique mosaics, fragments Of sculptures, numerous inscriptions etc. The concierge lives opposite (1 fr.). From the Maison Carree the stranger should next proceed by the Boulevards and the canal to the Jar din de la Fontaine , where the *Nym- phaeurn , formerly supposed to be a Temple of Diana , is situated. This fine vaulted structure, with niches for the reception of statues, has partly fallen in. The destination of the building of which extensive ruins lie behind the Nympheeum cannot now be ascertained. Here, too; are the Roman •* Baths excavated by Louis XIV. They contain a large peristyle with low columns , a number of niches, a basin for swimming and the spring by which Nimes is now supplied with water. Well kept pleasure* grounds in the rococo style are contiguous to the baths. Beyond the spring rises a hill with promenades, surmounted by the *Tourmagne (turris magna), a Roman structure, variously conjectured to 22 Route L MONTPELLIER. From. Paris have been a, beacon-tower, a temple and a treasury. It was more proba- bly a monumental tribute to some illustrious Roman. The tower is of octagonal form and is ascended by a modern staircase of 140 steps. The *view from the summit well repays the ascent; it embraces the town and environs, as far as the vicinity of the estuary of the Rhone, and the dis- tant Pyrenees to the W. The extent of the ancient Remausus is distinctly recognised hence } two of the ancient gates, the Porta Augusti (on the E. side of the Boulevards) and the Porte de France are still preserved. The former discovered in 1793, has four entrances and bears the inscription* IMPER. CAESAR. D1VI. F. AVGVSTVS. COS. XI. TR1B. POT. PORTAS. MVROS. QVE. COL. DAT., signifying that Augustus provided the colony of Nemausus with gates and walls in the year B. C. 23. The other gate is of simpler construction, and one arch of it only is preserved. Rimes, which numbers 12,000 Protest, among its ' present population, has several times been the scene of fierce religious struggles, especially during the reign of Louis XIV. In 1704 Marshal Villars had an interview in the garden of the monastery of the Recollets (now the site of the theatre) with Jean Cavalier , the talented leader of the C’amisards, who thereupon entered the service of Louis XIV., which however he soon quitted. He died in England in 1740. Jean Nicot , a physician of Rimes, introduced tobacco- smoking from America in 1564. Guizot , the celebrated statesman and his- torian, son of an advocate of Rimes, was born here in 1787. The **Pont du Gard, a bridge and aqueduct over the Gard, which descends from the Cevennes, passing the town of Alais with its extensive iron-works, is one of the most magnificent Roman works extant. The desolate rocky valley of the Gard is bridged over by a threefold series of arches (the lowest 6, the next 11, and the highest 35 in number), which present a most majestic appearance. Agrippa, the general of Augustus, is supposed to have been the founder. The object of this structure was to supply Rimes with water from the springs of Airan near St. Quentin and Ure near Uzes, a distance of 14 M. Several arches are also seen R. of the Pont du Gard and other traces of the aqueduct still exist nearer the town. The structure is now undergoing restoration and will again be used for its original purpose, as the present supply of water is defective. The bridge for carriages was added to the Roman aqueduct in 1743. The Pont du Gard is 15 M. from Rimes and may be reached by carriage in 21/2 hrso one-horse carr. 10-15 fr. (scenery monotonous). The nearest inn is at the post-station of La Foux , where carriages put up , and the tra veller who has not taken the precaution to bring refreshments from Rimes is victimized} hence to the aqueduct IV 2 M. Beyond Rimes the train traverses the broad and fertile plain on the S. of the Cevennes, passes Lunel, well known for its sweet wine (IOI /2 M - to the S lies Aigues Mortes, which possesses very ancient towers and walls of the period of Louis IX. and Philip the Bold), and in iy 2 -2 hrs. reaches Montpellier (Hotel Nevet, R. 21/ 2 , B. U/ 2 , A. 3/ 4 , Omnibus V 2 i Bdtel du Midi; Londres ), capital of the Department of the Herault, an industrial town with 51,865 inhab., beautifully situated and frequently visited by strangers on account of the salubrity of the climate and the neighbouring baths* The village which originally stood here was converted into a town to Nlci. 1. Route . 23 ARLES. towards the close of the 10th cent., under the name of Mon* Pessulus, and a university was founded here in 1196 by Pope Urban V. The medical faculty of Montpellier still enjoys a considerable reputation The town suffered severely during the Huguenot wars. Here on Oct,. 19th, 16.2, the well-known Peace was concluded. The finest point of the town is the * Promenade du Peyron , an extensive terrace planted with lime-trees, with an equestrian Statue of Louis IV. and the Chateau d'Eau. Fine view hence; in clear weather the summit of the Camigou in the Pyrenees is visible. The Jardin des Plantes is the oldest in France. The Musbe l acre contains a picture-gallery of some value, which boasts of a ‘Portrait ot Lorenzo de 1 Medici by Raphael. The public Library possesses a few inte- resting MSS. and other curiosities. Montpellier is 8/ 4 hr. distant by railway from Cette a sea-port founded by Louis XIV., containing salt-works and manufactories where all kinds of wines are prepared from the Spanish Benicarlo and largely exported to the north. After visiting Nimes the traveller returns by railway to Beau- eaire, crosses the Rhone to Tarascon, and in l 3 / 4 hr. reaches Arles. The country, which is flat and planted with the vine and olive, presents a marked southern character. The manners and unintelligible patois of the inhabitants differ materially from those of N. France. The peculiar softness of the old Provencal lan- guage employed by the Troubadours may still be traced. is here pronounced like sh (e. g. pershonne), ch like s (serser for cher- cher). These characteristics, as well as the vivacious and exci- table temperament of the natives, betoken the gradual transition from France to Italy. Arles '(* Hotel du Nord , R. 2., B. 1% A. 1 fr. ; Hotel du Forum J, the Arelate or Arelas of the ancients, once one of the most im- portant towns of Gaul, is now a somewhat dull place (popul. 25,543) on the Rhone, 24 M. from its mouth. It is connected with Trinquetaille on the opposite bank by a bridge of boats. The principal sights of Arles, for which 3 4 hrs. suffice, are all within a short distance from the hotels: E. St. Trophime, the extensive Museum and the Theatre of Augustus; N. the Amphi- theatre, and S.E. the Champs-Elysees. In the Place of the Hotel de Ville, erected in 1673, rises an * Obelisk of grey granite from the mines of Estrelle near Fre- jus (p. 33), an ancient monument of unknown origin found in the Rhone in 1676 and placed here in honour of Louis XIV. It has recently been furnished with an inscription dedicated to Na- poleon III., which informs the reader that under his government u les mediants tremblent et les bons se rassurent” . 24 Route h ARLES. From Paris In the vicinity stands the * Cathedral of St. Trophime (Trophimus is said to have been a pupil of St. Paul), founded in the 6th or 7th cent., possessing an interesting *Portal of the 12th or 13th cent, of semicircular form, supported by 12 co- lumns resting on lions, between which are apostles and saints (St. Trophimus, St. Stephen etc.), above it Christ as Judge of the world. The interior contains little to interest the visitor, with the exception of several sarcophagi and pictures. On the S. side (entered from the sacristy) are the ^Cloisters, with round and pointed arches and remarkable capitals, dating from various epochs. The N.. side is in the half antique style of the Carlo- vingian period (9th cent.), the E. side dates from 1221, the W. side (which is the most beautiful) from 1389 and the S. side from the 16th cent. The *Museum, established in the former church of St. Anna, contains numerous antiquities found in and near Arles, most of them in the theatre, where the celebrated Venus of Arles, now one of the greatest treasures of the Louvre at Paris, was also discovered in 1651. The following relics deserve special men- tion: *head of Diana (or Venus); Augustus (found in 1834) ; recumbent Silenus with pipe, once used as a fountain-figure; Mithras entwined by a serpent, with the signs of the zodiac; altar of Apollq with basrelief representing the punishment of Marsyas; above the latter a relief with the 9 Muses; a number of amphorse, pipes of water-conduits, Christian tombstones and sarcophagi from the ancient burial-ground (p. 25) etc. The * Theatre (commonly called that of “Augustus?’), a most pic- turesque ruin, is in a very dilapidated condition. The houses by which it is at present partially hemmed in are, however, in pro- cess of being demolished, and more of the external wall will be disengaged. The most perfect portion is the stage-wall, which according to the ancient arrangement had three doors. In front of it was a colonnade, of which two columns, one of African, the other of Carrara marble, are still standing. The opening for the letting down of the curtain is distinctly recog- nisable. The orchestra, paved with flags of variegated marble, contained the seats of persons of rank. The lower tiers only of the seats of the ordinary spectators are preserved. The theatre once possessed a second story, indications of which are observed to Nice. ARLES. 1. Route. 25 if the ruin he viewed from the Saracens’ Tower (in the direc- tion of the public promenade).- The dimensions of the building when perfect were very extensive. The * Amphitheatre is larger than that of Nimes (p. 20) hut in inferior preservation. It is nearly 500 yds. in circumference; the arena is 100 yds. long and 50 yds. wide. The entrance is on the N. side. It possessed 5 corridors and tiers of seats for 25,000 spectators. The two stories of 60 arches, the lower Doric, the upper Corinthian, present a most imposing aspect. The in- terior was formerly occupied by a number of dwellings occupied by poor families, but these have during the present century been almost entirely removed. After the Roman period the amphi- theatre was employed by the Goths then by the Saracens and again by Charles Martel (who expelled the latter in 739), as a stronghold, two of the four towers of which are still standing A staircase of 103 steps ascends the W. tower, which commands a pleasing survey of the neighbourhood. The vaults beneath the lowest tier of seats served as receptacles for the wild beasts, the gladiators etc. They communicated with the arena by means of 6 doors. The spectators, of whom the persons of rank occupied the front seats, were protected from the attacks of the wild ani- mals by a lofty parapet. Bloodless bull-fights are now occasionally exhibited here. The concierge, who lives opposite the IN', en- trance, sells ancient coins and cut stones (a good specimen of the latter 5—15 fr.). In the Place du Forum , the site of the ancient market-place, two granite pillars and fragments of a Corinthian pediment are still seen (near the Hotel du Nord). On the S.E. side of the town are the Champs Ely sees (Aliscamps), originally a Roman burying-ground, consecrated by St. Trophimus and furnished by him with a chapel. In the middle ^ages this cemetery enjoyed such celebrity that bodies were conveyed hither for sepulture from vast distances. It is mentioned by Dante in his Inferno (9, 112): “Si come ad Arli, ove Rodano stagna -, . . fanno i sepolcri tutlo il loco varo” . To this day many ancient sarcophagi are still to be seen in the environs of the curious old church, although after the first Revolution great numbers were sold to relic-hunters in all parts of the world. 26 Route 1. ATX. From Paris About 21/2 M. to the N.E. of Arles , on an isolated rock, rise the grand, but now dilapidated buildings of the former abbey of Montmajour , founded in the 10th cent., with a church in the transition style. Beneath the latter is a spacious crypt of the 11th cent. The cloisters contain de- caying monuments of the House of Anjou. Below Arles the flat delta of the estuary of the Rhone, termed the Re de la Cam, argue, commences. It is protected against the incursions of the sea by dykes, and is employed partly as arable and partly as pasture land, which supports numerous flocks and herds. The delta encloses the Etang de Valcares , at the mouth of which, on the Petit Rhone, Ste. Marie , the only village on the Camargue, is situated near the Sea. As the estuary is not ac- cessible to vessels of heavy burden, a large canal to obviate this difficulty is projected. After the train has quitted the station of Arles, the traveller observes the upper arches of the amphitheatre on the r. and the Alpines Mts. in the distance to the 1. Between Arles and Salon the line intersects the stony plain of Crau , which the ancients mention as the scene of the contest of Hercules with the Ligures. Several small stations. Near St. Chamas the line skirts the long Etang de Berre, an extensive inland lake on the r, A rocky district, through which several cuttings lead, is next traversed. Then stat. Rognac. A Branch Railway leads hence by Roquefavour (in a romantic valley, with an extensive modern aqueduct for the supply r .of Marseilles) to Aix ( Palais Royal), once the Roman colony Aquae Sextiae , where in B. C. 102 Marius gained a bloody victory over the Teutones, in the middle ages the capital of Provence and seat of the Troubadours and their “cours d’amour”. The church of St. Sauveur is a fine edifice. Aix also possesses a museum with numerous French and Italian pictures , warm baths and a number of valuable private collections. The oil of Aix is in high repute. At stat. Vitrolles the Etang de Berre is finally quitted. Beyond stat. Pas- des- Landers the train traverses the longest tunnel in France, nearly 3 M. in length (transit 6 min.), on emerging from which it passes some grand rocky scenery. The sea now comes in sight and the rocky islands of Chateau d'Jf, Raton- neau etc. are seen rising from the Gulf of Marseilles. Stat. EEstaque. Groups of pines occasionally diversify the landscape, which is of a southern character and surrounded by the imposing- mountains Mont de VEtoile, St. Cyr, Gardiole, Puget etc. In the foreground lies Marseilles; Hotels _ Enipereurs . . du Xcrwrre Ellises du Catraire I). 4-. ; TVotreZame duMont T). 2. chiJCCarmeL C 4 des Precheurs D . 3 . , L4 . S t Ovaries E . 3 ! 2 13 . St Jerdinand D • 3 . & Joseph _ £ 2 \7. St Zaurent - -- D.3.] L8. St Zazare B - 4- ! 19 St Martin C.3 j 20 . St JMicfveL -Cl, 21. St Theodore -C.3- tZ. St Victor — E.4- ! 25 . St Vincent de Taul — _ C . 2 . j 24 de laZrinite D 2 j 3 •ih.Iiglise grecefue. - C . 2 . 1 protestanie _ _E-5. in Nice. MARSEILLES. 1. Route. 27 Marseilles, the principal sea-port of France, termed Massalia by the Greeks, Massilia by the Romans, an important place even at an early period of antiquity, now a city with 260,900 inhab., is the capital of the Department of the Embouchures of the Rhone and depot of an extremely animated maritime traffic with the East, Italy and Africa (Algiers). Hotels. *G r an d Hotel du Louvre et de la Paix, "'Grand Hotel de Marseille, both in the Cannebiere-Prolongee , *H6t,el de No ailles , Rue de Noailles, all fitted up in the style of the great Parisian hotels, containing 250 rooms from 2 fr. upwards, table d,’hote at 6 p. m. 5 fr., B. 11/2 fr., A. and L. 3 fr.; *Hdtel du Petit Louvre, R. 2 fr., Rue Cannebiere ; *H 6 1 e 1 de 1/ Orient, Rue Grignan 11, R, on 1st floor 5, on 2nd 4, on 3rd 3 fr., D. at 6 p. m. 41/2, B. G/ 2 , A. 1 fr. ; Hotel du Luxembourg, Rue St. Ferreol 25, R. 3, L. and A. II/ 2 , D. 4 fr. ; *Hdtel des.Colonies, Rue Vacon; Hotel des Amb assadeur s , Rue Beauveau, R. ll/ 2 fr.; Hotel duParc, Rue Vacon, “journoe” 61/ 2 fr. ; H 6 tel du Var, Rue des Recollettes, “journee” 6 fr. — The atmosphere of the town in summer is hot and oppressive. - Those therefore who contemplate a sojourn of several days during the warm season are recommended to select the *H 6 1 e 1 des Catalans, in the immediate vicinity of the sea-baths (PI. E , 6) and near the so-called Residence Imp&riale; the situation Is delightful, and the house spacious and comfortable ; omnibus to and from the station. A small establishment, somewhat more distant, is the *H o t e 1 Victoria, situated at the extremity of the Cours du Prado, at the point where it approaches the sea; there is a good bathing-place near it, and the house is recommended for a prolonged stay. Restaurants. De la Cannebiere; Hotel del’Orient; *Roubion, beautifully situated on the new road La Corniche; Hotel du Luxem- bourg (Parrocel). Bouillabaisse , good fish. Chablis , Graves and Sau- terne are the white wines usually drunk. Caf6s. De France et de rUnivers, on the E. side of the Canne- biere. B o do ul , Rue St. Ferreol ; Cafe Turc in the Parisian style, but less animated. Post-office, Rue de Grignan. Bookseller. Veuve C am oin, in the Cannebiere, with reading-rooms (25 c. per diem). French newspapers, Galignani etc. Carriages are of two descriptions. First, the voitures du service de la gave, destined for the conveyance of travellers to and from the railway- station and posted there only. The passenger on entering receives a de- tailed tariff, in which even the driver’s name is stated: one-horse carr. 1 fr. 25 c. for 1 pers., for each additional pers. 25 c. ; two-horse carr. 1 fr. 75 c. for 1 pers., for each additional pers. 25 c., for a drive at night 25 c. more; each article of luggage 25 c.; if the traveller fail in obtaining ac- commodation at the hotel, 25 c. additional for driving to another. Se- condly, the voitures de place (fiacres): one-horse 1 fr. 50 c. per drive, 2 fr. 25 c. for the first, and 2 fr. for each succeeding hour; two-horse 2 fr. per drive, 2 fr. 50 c. for the first, and 2 fr. for each succeeding hour. From 28 Route 1. MARSEILLES. From Paris 6 p. m. to 6 a. m. one-horse 1 fr. 75 c., two-horse 2 fr. 50 c. per drive. — Omnibus 30 c., each article of luggage 25 c. Boats in the Ancien Port at the extremity of the Rue Cannebiere \ 11/2 f r - f° r the first, 1 fr. for each succeeding hour. In fine weather a delightful excursion may be made to the islands of Ratonneau, Pomegues and the Chateau dTf (p. 31). Sea-baths, handsomely fitted up, in the Arise des Catalans , on the E. side of the town, below the conspicuous Residence ImpAridU; also warm seawater-baths, douche, vapour etc. for gentlemen and ladies. Adjacent, the large *H6tel des Catalans , with restaurant. Omnibus to or from the baths 30 c. English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain. Theatres. Grand Opera (PI. 41), W. of the Place Royale, and Theatre du Gymnase (pi. 42), in the Allee de Meilhan, both good. There are also two smaller theatres frequented by the humbler classes. Massilia was a colony founded about B. C'. 600 by Greeks from Phoceea in Asia Minor, who soon became masters of the sea, conquered the Car- thaginians in a naval battle near Corsica, and established new colonies in their neighbourhood, such as Tauroeis or Tauroentium (near Ciotat), Olbia (near Hyeres) , Antipolis (Antibes) and Nicaea (Rice), all of which, like their founders, rigidly adhered to the Greek language, customs and culture. Massilia maintained this reputation until the imperial period of Rome, and was therefore treated with leniency and respect by Julius Csesar when conquered by him B. C. 49. Tacitus informs us that his illustrious father-in-law Agricola, a native of the neighbouring Roman colony Forum Julii (Frejus),- even under Claudius found ample opportunities for com- pleting his education at Massilia in the Greek manner, for which purpose Athens was usually frequented. The town possessed temples of Diana (on the site of the present cathedral), of Neptune (on the coast), of Apollo and other gods. Its government was aristocratic. After the fall of the W. Empire Marseilles fell successively into the hands of the Visigoths, the Franks and the Saracens, by whom it was destroyed; in the 10th cent, if was restored and became subject to the Vicomtes de Marseille; in 1218 it be- came independent, but shortly afterwards succumbed to Charles of Anjou. In 1481 it was united to France, but still adhered to its ancient privileges, as was especially evident in the wars of the Ligue, against Henri IV. In 1660 Louis XIV. divested the town of its privileges, so that it retained its importance as a sea-port only. In 1720 and 1721 it was devastated by a fearful pestilence. During the revolution it remained unshaken in its allegiance to royalty and was therefore severely punished. In 1792 hordes of galley-slaves were sent hence to Paris, where they committed frightful excesses. It was for them that. Rouget de Vlsle , an officer of engineers, composed the celebrated Marseillaise: “Allons, enfants de la patrie”, which subsequently became the battle-hymn of the republican armies. The town contains few objects worthy of special mention. The harbour whence it derives its commercial importance, is one of the most interesting points. Since 1850 it has been extended to four times its former size, notwithstanding which there is still to Nice. MARSEILLES. 1. Route. 29 a demand for increased accommodation. In 1853 the Bassin de la Joliette was added to the Ancien Port and is now the starting- point of most of the steamboats. The Bassin du Lazaret, d'Arene and Napoleon were next constructed. It is now proposed to form two new docks and an entrance-harbour ( av ant-port ), which will render Marseilles one of the greatest sea- ports in the world. Nearly 10,000 vessels on an average, of an aggregate burden of 1,800,000 tons, enter and quit Marseilles annually. The annual amount of customs-dues exceeds 60 million francs (i. e. 2,400,000 £.). The old harbour is long and narrow. Its entrance is defended by the forts of St. Jean and St. Nicolas. La Cannebiere , a broad street, intersects the town from W. to E., from the extremity of the Ancien Port to the centre of the town where the ground rises. In this street, a few paces from the harbour, stands the Bourse, with a portal of Corinthian columns and adorned with the statues of (r.) Euthymenes and (1.) Pytheas, two natives of Massilia who distinguished themselves as navigators before the Christian era. To the latter we are indebted for the earliest data with respect to the length of the days in the different northern latitudes and the ebb and flow of the tide. The opposite Place Royale is used as a fish-market. A short distance further the Cours de Belsunce is reached on the 1., a shady promenade generally thronged with foot-passengers, at the S. extremity of which stands the statue of Bishop Belsunce, “pour perpetuer le souvenir de son devouement durant la peste qui desola Marseille en 1720”. This intrepid prelate, during the appalling plague which carried off 40,000 persons, alone main- tained his post and faithfully performed the solemn duties of his calling. Erom this point the Rue d’Aix ascends to the Arc de Triomphe, erected originally to commemorate the Spanish cam- paign of the Duke of Angouleme (1823) , now decorated with seulptures by Ramey and David d' Angers of the battles of Ma- rengo, Austerlitz , Eleurus and Heliopolis, and bearing the in- scription: “A Louis Napoleon Marseille reconnaissante” . The rail- way-station is situated to the N. of this point; the cemetery adjoins it. We now return to the Cannebiere. Opposite to the Place Belsunce opens the Cours St. Louis, continued by the Rue de Rome and the Cours du Prado, which is 2 1 /? M. in length. At 30 Route 1. MARSEILLES. From Paris the S. extremity of the latter is the Chateau des Fleurs , a small park with fish-ponds, affording various kinds of entertainments, a poor description of “Tivoli”. To the 1. in the Cours St. Louis at the entrance to the narrow Rue de la Palud, is a fountain, adorned with an insignificant bust of Pierre Puget , the celebrated sculptor, who was a Native of Marseilles. The W. prolongation of the Cannebiere is formed by the animated Allee de Meilhan, with fountains, and the new Boulevard de la Madeleine, which leads to the Zoological Garden, 1 M. distant. The latter (admission 1 fr.) contains a valuable collection of animals. All these streets are traversed by omnibuses, of which the stranger may advantageously avail himself. — A short distance S. of the Zoological Garden, at the extremity of the Boulevard de Longchamp, a handsome edifice, destined for the reception of various collections, has recently been erected and will be opened on Aug. 15th, 1868. The Museum in the Boulevard du Musee, at the E. extremity of the Cannebiere (accessible gratis on Sundays and holidays from 10 to 4, at other times by payment of a fee), will be transferred to the new building in 1868. It contains relics of statues, Greek and other inscriptions, sarcophagi etc.; also a collection of pic- tures, of which the following merit inspection: *198. Philipp oteaux, Parting repast of the Girondists on the eve of their execution ; 231. Curzon , Female weavers of Naples; 123. Portrait of the Flemish school; 170. St. John writing the Apocalypse, a copy from Raphael; 169. Perugino, Madonna with saints. The ancient cathedral of St. Lazare on the harbour, recently condemned to demolition, is still suffered to stand. Opposite to it, on the E. side of the Ancien Port, rises the church of St. Victor, with crypt of the 11th cent., superstructure of 1200, towers added in 1350 by Pope Urban V. who was once abbot here. The stranger whose time permits is recommended to visit the harbour and docks, which afford the most interesting walks at Marseilles, especially the new basins on the N. side. The Bassin de la Joliette contains the large passenger-steamers. At the commencement of the pier there is an omnibus-station. The principal hall of the Consigne (Sanitary department of police) contains several good pictures: Horace Vernet, The cholera on to Nice. MARSEILLES. 1. Route. 31 board the frigate Melpomene; Guerin , The Chevalier Rose direc- ting the sepulture of those who have died of the plague; Gerard , Bishop Belsunce during the plague of 1720 (see above); Puyet , The plague at Milan, a relief in marble; David, St. Rochus praying to the Virgin, painted at Rome in 1780. The following pleasant drive of several hours is recommended, especially for the afternoon and evening : From the Porte de Rome or the Place Castelane (both PI. E, 2) up the Cours du Prado, passing the Chateau des Fleurs; then a descent to the coast, affording charming views, and by the Chemin de Ceinture to the village of Endoume; hence, _ skirting the Anse des Catalans (baths and hotel p. 28), to the Promenade Bonaparte. The stranger may now either return to the town, or ascend on foot to the r. to the church of Notre Dame de la Garde (see below). The finest point in the environs of Marseilles is to the E. of the Ancien Port, near the fort of *Notre Dame de la Garde , with the church of that name, which contains an image of the Virgin and innumerable votive tablets of those who have been rescued from the dangers of shipwreck or disease. It has recently been restored and decorated with frescoes by a Dusseldorf artist. The eminence to the r. above the chapel affords an admirable survey of the extensive city, occupying the entire width of the valley, the innumerable white villas (bastides) on the surrounding hills, the harbour and the barren group of islands at its entrance, with the Chateau d’lf, where Mirabeau was once confined (also mentioned in Dumas' “Monte Christo”)* and a portion of the Mediterranean. That pait of the sea which is concealed by the projecting angle of the fort may be surveyed from the rear of the chapel : grey mountains, light-brown houses with red roofs, scanty vegetation, numerous barren rocks and a beautiful view of the sea. This point is reached in V 2 ^ r - fr° m the old harbour, by the Promenade Bonaparte, adorned with beautiful southern vegetation and affording charming views of the town, harbour and mountains (the unfinished Residence Imperiale is situated here), and finally by steps, a somewhat fatiguing ascent. Here the full force is often felt of the prevailing Mistral, or piercing N.W; wind, the scourge of Provence. The Railway to Toulon and Nice (14072 M., in 7 hrs.; fares 25 fr. 20, 18 fr. 90, 13 fr. 85 e.; to Toulon 42 M., in 32 Route 1. TOULON. From Paris l 3 /4 hr.) runs, from the station outside the Arc de Triomphe (p, 29) at some distance from the sea, passing through several rocky defiles. Several small stations; then Aubagne , where the line turns to the S. Near Cassis several tunnels penetrate the rocky ridge of Ollioule , and stat. La Giotat is reached, char- mingly situated on the coast, a most agreeable retreat in winter and spring. Near stat. St. Cyr is situated the Tauroentium of the ancients. Baudot , with a fortified harbour, is delightfully situated in a bay. Then Ollioules-St. Nazaire, La Seyne and Toulon ( Croix de Matte, R. 5, D. 4, A. 1 fr. ; *Croix d'Or, Place des Trots Dauphins; Amiraute and Victoria in the Boule- vard L. Napoleon; Cafes de Paris and de la Marine in the Champ-de-Bataille, where a military band generally plays in the evening), the war-harbour of France for the Mediterranean with 84,987 inhab., possesses a double harbour, protected by 11 forts which crown the surrounding heights. The strongest of these are La Malgue, Aiguilette , Ballaguier and Fort Napoleon. The, latter, which is sometimes termed Le Petit Gibraltar, was gallantly defended in December, 1793, by 300 English soldiers against an enemy of tenfold number, but it was at last taken by storm, whereupon the other forts also surrendered. This attack was conducted by the Lieutenant of artillery Buonaparte , then in his 23rd year, who six years later became Consul. In 1707 Toulon was besieged less successfully by the Austrians and Sardinians under Prince Eugene, who were obliged to retire after bombarding the town in vain. The town contains nothing to detain the traveller except the War Harbour , with the Bagno (prison of the Formats, or galley-convicts) and the Arsenal , which may be inspected daily about 2 p. m. Visitors on exhibiting their passports (or visiting- cards), are furnished with tickets of admission at the Admiralty Office (gratuities prohibited). The *view enjoyed from the height of La Malgue , S.E. of Toulon, is one of the most beautiful in Provence. Steamboats run twice weekly from Toulon to Corsica , reaching Ajaccio in 22, Bastia in 24 hrs. The Botanical Garden contains some fine samples of southern vegetation, such as date-palms etc., which flourish in the open air. to Nice. FREJUS, l.Jdoute 33 Beyond Toulon the line quits the coast and winds through the Montagues des Maures to the N.E.; stations La Garde and Hyeres. The small town of Hyeres ( Hotel des Ambassadeurs ; Edtel de V Europe; H6tel des lies Or; English Church Service in winter and spring} lies 3 M. from the railway and the same distance from the sea, on the slope of a hill protected from tbeX. winds by the lofty Mts. des Maures. It is much recommended as a winter-residence for those suffering from pulmonary complaints and is surrounded by a number of villas, but the town itself is uninviting. Most of the heights in the vicinity are barren. The orange and lemon-trees of which Hyeres boasts are generally concealed by garden- walls. The low ground is marshy at places and exhales unwholesome vapours in summer and autumn. The Islands of Hyeres (the Stoechades of the ancients) are a group of rocky islands and cliffs near the coast. The largest of them are the He du Levant or Titan , Portcros , Porquerolies and Bagneau. Some of them are fortified and inhabited, but they do not enjoy so mild a climate as Hyeres itself, being more exposed to the wind. Massillon , the celebrated preacher, who lived during the reigns of Louis XIV. and XV., was born at Hyeres in 1663 (d. 1742 as Bishop of Clermont). The Place Royale is adorned with his bust. A number of unimportant places are next passed. Then stat. Le Luc, with the ruins of an ancient Abbey, and Vidauban, in a picturesque district. From the next stat. Les Arcs a branch- line runs to Draguignan (Poste), a beautifully situated town with 10,000 inhab. and enjoying a mild and salubrious climate. Next stations Le Muy and Roquebrune. Frejus ( Hotel du Midi, R. 2, B. 1, D. 3., A. 1 fr.), a small town with 2884 inhab., the ancient Forum Julii, founded by Julius Caesar, contains a number of Roman remains, an amphi- theatre, archway (Porte Doree) and aqueduct, none of which possess much interest. The Roman General Julius Agricola was born here; also the Abbe Sieyes , whose name is so intimately associated with the Revolution. From Frejus to Nice the line runs near the coast. L. rises the Mont d'Esterel . Stat. St. Raphael is delightfully situated in a ravine on the coast. At the small harbour of this place Na- poleon landed in Oct., 1799, on his return from Egypt; one month later, on Nov. 9th (18th Brumaire), he overthrew the Directory at Paris and caused himself to be created First Consul. Here, too, after his abdication, he embarked for Elba, April 28th, 1814. The line traverses a romantic, rocky district, occasionally affording charming glimpses of the numerous bays of the coast. Stat. Agay, then four tunnels. Baedeker. Italy I. 3 34 Route 1. CANNES. Cannes (Grand Hotel de Cannes, a spacious etablishment in the Parisian style, without the town. In the town Grand Hotel du Louvre, des Etrangers, du Nord, Poste, des Princes, d’An- gleterre. On the Boulevard de Plmperatrice : Hotel de la Mediter- ranee, Beau Rivage, Gray. In the suburbs: Bellevue, Bristol, delaPaix, de l’Europe, all fitted up for the reception of visitors making a prolonged stay. On the promenades: Cafe desAllees, de 1.’ Uni vers etc. Private apartments are also procured without difficulty, English Church Service ), a small town with 7358 inhab., is pic- turesquely situated in the Oolfe de la Napoule , in which Na- poleon landed on March 1st, 1816, on his return from Elba. Opposite to the promontory to the E., which separates the Golfe de la Napoule from the Oolfe de Jouan, rise the lies de Lerins. On Sainte Marguerite , the largest of these, is situated Fort Mon- terey (poor inn), in which ‘‘the man with the iron mask” was kept in close confinement from 1686 to 1698. On the island of St. Honorat rise the ruins of a fortified monastery and church (boat there and back 10 — 12 fr.). The summit of the rock above Cannes is occupied by the church of Notre Dame de V Esperance, especially revered by sea-faring men. The town consists of a main street, parallel to which is the Cours, a promenade along the coast. Its charming situation, sheltered from the N. and N.W. winds, has of late years rendered it a most favourite resort of invalids in winter. The beautiful envi^fcis are adorned with numerous villas. Those to the W. are principally occupied by English families (the English Church here is situated). The best French society is also well repre- sented here. Suites of apartments are usually let by the season (October to May), not for shorter periods. — Excursions to the islands (see above), to Grasse, 10 7? M. distant etc. Beyond Cannes the' fine passes Oolfe Jouan ; a column marks the spot where Napoleon bivouacked on the night after his arrival from Elba. Antibes (Hotel de France), the ancient Antipolis, a colony of the Massilians, is now a small, but animated seaport (6829 inhab.), beautifully situated on a promontory and commanding a charming view of the sea, the Bay of Nice and the mountains of the coast. A pier constructed by Yauban connects it with several islands in the vicinity. This portion of the line traverses a remarkably rich and attractive district. It soon crosses the Var (Varus), an impetuous mountain-torrent, which in modern, as well as BOURG. 2. Route. 35 ancient times formed the boundary between France and Italy, until in 1860 Nice was ceded to France and the frontier removed farther to the E. Stations Vence-Cagne , Var and Nice, see R. 16. From Nice to Genoa see R. 15. 2 . From Paris (Geneva) to Turin by Mont Cenis. Railway from Paris to St. Michel in 151/2 hrs.; thence Diligence three times daily over Mont Cenis to Susa in 10 hrs. ; from Susa to Turin Railway in IV 2 hr. Fares from Paris to St. Michel 77 fr. 60, 58 fr. 20, 41 fr. 95 c.; diligence from St. Michel to Susa, coupe 40, interieur or banquette (on the top of the vehicle) 35 fr.; from Paris to Turin 104 fr. 65, 83 fr. 55, 65 fr. 15 c. A number of vehicles are always in waiting at St. Michel (and Susa) to convey passengers over the mountain; — Through- tickets for Turin and other places in Italy are sold at the Lyons Railway Office, Boulevard Mazas, in Paris, and at the other important stations such as Dijon, Geneva, Lyons etc. A first or second class ticket entitles the passenger to a place in the interieur (for a coupe seat 5 frs. additional must be paid); a third class ticket to a seat in the rotonde. Extra- Post : a carriage for 6 pers. 300 , 4 pers 255 , 2 pers. 205 fr. , including fees etc. — The new Mountain Railway (see p. 38) has still many difficulties to overcome before it can be finally opened for public traffic, especially owing to its dangerous exposure to avalanches and the action of the ele- ments in the higher regions. The trial trips have therefore been discon- tinued “until farther notice”. From Paris to Macon see R. 1. The railway here quits the Lyons line and proceeds to the 1., crosses the Saone and at stat. Pont-de-Veyle the Veyle. In front and to the 1. a view of the Jura is obtained. The next place of importance is Bourg f Hotels de V Europe, du Midi , du Palais ), with 14,000 inhab., the ancient capital of Bresse, situated on the 1. bank of the Reyzousse , 3 / 4 M. from the station. The church of Notre Dame de Bourg , erected from the 15th to the 17th cent., in a variety of styles, contains several pictures, sculpture and fine wood-carving. On the promenade Le Bastion is the * Monument of Bichat (d. 1802), who once studied at Bourg, by David d J Angers. The house in which Lalande (d. at Paris in 1807) was born is indicated by a tablet with inscription. — Bourg is the junction of the line to Lyons, Mouchard, Besan^on and Mulhouse, which is the direct railway between Lyons and Strasbourg (comp. pp. 6 — 8). The celebrated *Church of Brou, in the florid Gothic style, erected 1511 — 36 by Margaret of Austria, Regent of the Netherlands, is situated II /2 M. from the town. It contains the sumptuous * Monuments of the 3 * 36 Route 2. AMBERIEU. From Paris foundress, the Duke of Savoy her husband, and Margaret of Bourbon, her mother-in-law. Her well-known motto, “ Fortune infortune forte une\ may be seen in different parts of the church. The line intersects the forest of Seillon. Near Stat. Pont d'Ain the Ain is crossed. Amb6rieu, a pleasant little town on the Albarine , situated at the base of the Jura Mts., is the junction for Lyons (p. 8). The train now continues to ascend the valley of the Alba- rine. L. lie the ruined castles of Vieux- Mont- Fer rand and St. Germain. Beyond Stat. St. Rambert de Joux the valley be- comes wilder and more imposing. The line quits the Albarine at stat. Tenay and enters a sequestered valley to the r., where Les Hopitaux is situated. Near stat. Rossillon are a few frag- ments of a former stronghold. Beyond a tunnel, 1 / 3 M. in length, the lakes of Pugieu are observed on the r. Beyond two small stations the line now reaches the valley of the Rhone near Stat. Culoz, at the base of the Colombier (4700 ft.), junction of the Geneva line. From Geneva to Culoz railway in 21/2 hrs.j fares 7 fr. 50, 5fr. 65, 4 fr. 15 c. The line follows the r. bank of the Rhone, on the slopes of the Jura Mts. Beyond Collonges , the fifth station, the Rhone flows through a narrow rocky valley, confined between the Jura and Mont de Vuache r and commanded by the Fort de VEcluse , which rises far above on the r. The line quits the defile by the long Tunnel du Cr&do ( 21/3 M.), crosses the grand Valserine Viaduct and reaches stat. Bellegarde (Poste) , at the influx of the Valserine into the Rhone. The latter here forms a species of rapid, known as the Perte du Rhdne , where the water is occasionally lost to the view. Stations Pyrimont , Seyssel and Culoz. The line to St. Michel (Chemin de Fer Victor Emanuel) crosses the Rhone and at stat. Chdtillon reaches the Lac du Bourget (12 M. in length, IV 2 M. in breadth), the E. bank of which it follows. Several tunnels and fine views. Aix-les-Bains (Hotel Imperial; Hotel Guillard; Hotel Venat, the nearest to the station, R. 2, D. 5 fr. ; Hotel du Parc), the Aquae Allobrogum or Aquae Gratianae of the Romans, is a cele- brated watering-place with 4000 inhab. (3000 visitors to the baths annually), possessing sulphur-springs (113° Fahr.), which are adapted for internal and external use. The scanty relics of the Roman period (fragments of a triumphal arch, of a temple and of baths) are almost all within the precincts of private pro- perty and not easily accessible. to Turin. CHAMBERY. 2. Route. 37 Pleasant excursion to *Haute Combe, a Cistercian Abbey on the N.W. bank of the Lae du Bourget , at the base of the Mont du Chat. This was the burial-place of the Princes of Savoy till 1731, after which they were interred in the Superga at Turin (p. 106). The abbey was destroyed du- ring the French Eevolution, but restored in 1824 by Charles Felix, king of Sardinia. The church contains a number of magnificent monumems. The prospect from the Phare de Gessens , a tower in the vicinity, has been described by Rousseau. A branch-line leads from Aix-les-Bains to Annecy (in 1 72 fares 4 fr. 50, 3 jfr. 35, 2 fr. 45 c.). Near stat. Voglans the line quits the lake and traverses the broad valley of * the Laisse ; to the 1. the beautifully wooded slopes of the Mont d’Azi and the Dent de Nivolet. Chambery (Hotel de France, near the station'; Hotel de l J Europe] *Petit Paris ) is the capital of the Department of Savoy, with 20,000 ihhab., and an archiepiscopal see. The Cathedral, a small, but interesting edifice of 1430, has been somewhat disfi- gured by a subsequent addition. A square tower and remnants of the facade of the old palace of the Dukes of Savoy, erected in 1130, still exist. On the Promenade between the railway- station and the town is the * Monument of General de Boigne (d. 1830), adorned with life-size figures of elephants. He was a native of Chambery, to which he bequeathed a fortune of 37 2 million francs acquired in India. Les Charmettes , a country-resi- dence 1 V 2 M. from the town, was once tenanted by Rousseau and Madame de Warens. The line traverses a picturesque district, passing the ruined castles of Bdtie and Chignin. The precipitous Mont Granier (5700 ft.) is indebted for its present form to a great landslip which descended from it in 1248 and overwhelmed 16 villages. Stat. Route de Grenoble is the junction for the branch-line to Grenoble , which enters the valley of the Isere (or Valley of Graisivaudan ) to the r. [From Chambery to Grenoble in 2*/4 hrs. Grenoble is connected with the Paris and Marseille line by means of three different railways, which reach it at Lyons (p. 8), St. Rambert (p, 13) and Valence (p. 14) respectively. From Grenoble to Mar- seilles by railway in 13 hrs.] — The line now turns to the 1. Next stat. Montmelian, where a good description of wine is produced. The ancient castle, of which scanty fragments now alone exist, was long the bulwark of Savoy against France. It was once defended by Goffredo Benso, an ancestor of Cavour (d. 1861), 38 Route 2. ST. MICHEL. From Paris during 13 months against the army of Louis XIII. In 1705 it was destroyed by Louis XIV. Next stations St. Pierre d'Albigny and Chamousset. Picturesque view (to the 1.) of the broad valley of the Isere, enclosed by beautifully formed mountains on both sides- At the influx of the Arc into the Isere the line quits the valley of the latter and ascends the valley of the Arc, which is at first of considerable width. A retrospect is here obtained of the peculiarly shaped Mont Granier (p. 37) in the distance. Beyond stat. Aiguebelle , which is grandly situated, the valley con- tracts. Here the high road (r.) leads through a gate resembling a triumphal arch. The Arc is now crossed. The valley expands and the scenery is picturesque. The district near stat. Epierre is rendered unhealthy by the marshy nature of the soil, and cre- tinism is here prevalent. The railway and the 'high road ascend on the r. bank of the Arc. Several cuttings and a tunnel. Stat. La Chambre. Beyond St. Julien , where excellent wine is pro- duced, the valley again contracts and the scenery assumes a bleak aspect. St. Jean de Maurienne (Hotel de I’Europe) is the chief place in the valley, then St. Michel (Hotel de la Poste ; La Samaritain.e ; *Rail. Restaurant ) , where the railway at present terminates. The diligence and its supplementary carriages, which are in waiting at the station, generally start 1 hr. after the arrival of the train. 1? M. Modane (*Lion d’Or, dear), a village on the high road. At Fourneau, 3 M. below Modane, the new railway will quit the valley of the Arc and enter the long tunnel (8Vs M. in length, estimated cost 38 million francs) to the S.E. , penetrating the mountain beneath the Col de Frejus and emerging in the valley of Bar donneche (near -the village and fort of that name) It will then quit the valley at Oulx and descend N.E. in the Dora Valley (p. 40) to Susa. The tunnel is the grandest modern undertaking of the kind. The ingenious boring machines are worked by means of compressed air. The work progresses more rapidly on the Italian than on the French side, where the rock is harder. According to the most recent calculations it is expected that the tunnel will be completed in 1871. Meanwhile another com- pany has within less than two years constructed a temporary line over the pass, in accordance with the system of the American engineer Fell. It runs parallel with the high road and besides the to Turin. LANS-LE-BOURG. 2. Route. 39 ordinary rails is provided with another of higher level in the middle, against which horizontally placed wheels work in order to in- crease the friction. The capabilities of this novel conveyance over a mountain-pass are necessarily limited. It is said that not more than 60 — 70 passengers can be conveyed at one time. If the system is eventually successful, a new era in the mode of crossing Alpine passes will probably be introduced. The Fort Bramant d'Essillon , to the 1., high above the abyss in which the Arc foams through its rocky channel, completely commands the road. It is, however, condemned to demolition, in accordance with the terms of the treaty of annexation. The remarkable Pont du Diable connects the fort with the road. The villages of Verney and Termignon are next reached. The Arc flows through a bleak mountain-valley , overtopped by lofty and barren mountains. The road ascends rapidly, then descends to 15 M. Lans-le-Bourg (*Hotel de V Europe; Hdtel Imperial ), a miserable village at the N. base of Mont Cenis.- The road across Mont Cents , the traffic on which is conside- rable at all seasons; constructed in 1802 — 5 by Fabbroni by order of Napoleon , attains a height of 6354 ft. (i. e. about the same elevation as the Bernardino, Spliigen, St. Gotthard and Simplon routes). This is the. principal route between France and Italy, and at the same time the safest of the higher Alpine passes, especially since the superior construction of a considerable portion of the road on the E. side, by which the worst part of the old road is superseded. The diligences are dragged up the mountain by two horses and eight mules. There are 23 houses of refuge, where the inspectors of the road render assistance to travellers if required. At Lans-le-Bourg the road quits the valley of the Arc and the windings commence. A retrospect is obtained of the im- posing Vanoise Glacier , on the opposite mountain. In the valley of the Arc, higher up, Lans-le-Viltard is situated. The road ascends without intermission to the 18th refuge (the numbers are reckoned from the Italian side), which stands near the boun- dary between France (Savoy) and Italy (Piedmont). For the ascent from Lans-le-Bourg to the post-house on Mt. Cenis car- riages require dy 2 , pedestrians 2 V 2 hrs. only (by cutting off the windings of the road, generally in the direction of the telegraph wires, and following the old road which diverges at the 20 th refuge. 40 Route 2. SUSA. The summit of the Pass is 6354 ft. above the sea -level. Beyond it the road leads near a lake which abounds in trout. On the lofty plain are situated the old and new post-houses,, two tolerable inns adjacent to each other. About’ V 2 M. farther the Hospice on Mont Cenis is reached. Benedictine monks here entertain poor travellers gratuitously, but a few rooms are reserved for the wealthier classes who can contribute to the support of the establishment. The hospice, founded by Charlemagne or by Louis the Pious, owes its present form to Napoleon I. It is. tenanted by monks and a few carabineers. The Grande Croix and several other taverns are situated on the road 2^4 M. farther. The road now descends by windings to the small plain of St. Ni- cholas and traverses it in a straight direction. To the L rises the picturesque mountain Rochemelon (Rocciamelone) , crowned by the chapel of Notre Dame des Neiges , formerly much fre- quented, but now falling to decay. The villages of Novalesa and Ferrera on the former road remain on the 1. A fine view of the valley of Susa, traversed by the railway, is now enjoyed. The vegetation assumes a southern character; the chestnut, mulberry and fig gradually become more common. Molaret (small inn) is the first Piedmontese village. The road soon reaches the valley of the Dora Riparia (Dora Susa), in which it ascends S.W. over Mont Genevre (in the same direction as the future railway, see p. 38). 24 M. Susa ( Poste ; Hotel de Savoie ; Hotel de France ), the Roman Segusium, a very ancient town with 2000 inhab., is pic- turesquely situated in an amphitheatre of rocks. The garden of the Governatore contains an ancient triumphal arch , 48 ft. high, 40 ft. wide and 25 ft. in depth, decorated with projecting Co- rinthian columns at the four corners, and with sacrificial scenes on the frieze. The inscription records that the prefect Cottius, son of king Donnus, and the people subject to his jurisdiction erected the arch to Augustus A. U. C. 745 (i. e. B. C. 8). The Railway (comp. p. 38) follows the course of the Dora, the broad and attractive valley of which is enclosed by two moun- tain-ranges. Four small stations; then S. Ambrogio ; in the vi- cinity, high on a rocky pinnacle to the r., stands the a^bey of S. Michele della Chiusa , remarkable for its graves, the corpses in which, instead of decomposing, are converted into natural mummies. At Avigliana the valley expands into a broad, plain. LAUSANNE. 3. Route. 41 Three more unimportant places are finally passed. The view is generally intercepted by the acacia plantations which skirt the railway on both sides. Turin see ,R. 10. 3. From Lausanne to Arona on the Lago Maggiore (and Milan) over the Simplon. Railway from Lausanne to Sion in 31 / 2 — 4V2 brs.; fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 30 c. Thence over the Simplon Diligence once daily in 19 hrs. Comfortable Swiss vehicles the whole way to Arond; fare (coupe) to Domo d’Ossola 35 fr. 30 c., interieur somewhat less. From Domo d’Ossola to Arona 8 fr. With regard to the different seats in the diligences see p. 47. — For the journey from Lausanne (Ouchy) to Villeneuve (or Bouveret, comp. p. 42) the steamboat is preferable to the railway. Steamers on Lago Maggiore see R. 22. Lausanne (*Faucon, R. 2— 3, L. 1, B. 11 / 2 , D.3— 4, A. 1 fr.,- Hotel Gibbon; *Bellevue; *Ho tel du Grand Pont, not expensive ; Hotel Riche Mont. — At Ouchy: *Beau Rivage, a spacious establishment opposite the steamboat-pier, R. 2 fr. and upwards, B. II/ 2 , A. 1 fr. ; An ere), capital of the Canton de Vaud, ' with 20,742 inhab.. is de- lightfully situated at the base of Mont Jorat , on two hills connected by the imposing *Grand Pont , a bridge constructed in 1839 — 44. The *Cathedral, a pure Gothic edifice erected in 1235 — 75, should be visited. The tower, 154 ft. in height, affords a fine survey of the town, the lake and the Alps. The Musee Cantonal in the College contains a natural history cabinet and a collection of antiquities; several good pictures at the Musee Arlaud. — Celebrated view from the * Signal (1994 ft.),' V 2 ^ r - above the town. Mont Blanc itself is not visible thence, but may be viewed from the Grandes Roches, */ 2 hr. from the town, r. of the road to Yverdon. The railway from Lausanne to Villeneuve skirts the N.E. bank of the Lake of Geneva. Most travellers will prefer the . steamer from Ouchy (omnibus thither from Lausanne in */4 l 11 -} to Villeneuve or to Bouveret (p. 42). The abrupt slopes between Lausanne and Vevay, termed Lavaux , produce the excellent wine of that "name. Vevay (*Trois Couronnes -or Hotel Monnet, on the lake, R. 3 — 4 fr., L. 3/ 4 , B. U/ 2 , D. 3 — 4 fr., A. 1 fr . ; *Hotel Senn, also on the lake; *ITotel du Lac, smaller; Croix Blanche, Trois Rois, not far from the station, without view; *Hotel du Pont, by the station; Hotel de la Poste, in the town), 42 Route 3. VILLENEUVE. From Lausanne the second town in the Canton de Vaud, with 6500 inhab., is celebrated for the beauty of its situation. Charming view from the small terrace in the market-place, near the Chateau of M. Couvreu (magnificent *Garden with southern vegetation, gardener 1 fr.). The Church of St. Martin , without the town, erected 1498, used in summer only as a place of worship, is the burial-place of the regicides Ludlow and Broughton, mem- bers of the republican tribunal which condemned Charles I. to death. The most beautiful and imposing part of the Lake of Geneva is between Yevay and Villeneuve. The villages of Clarens, ( Jhernex , Vemex , Montreux , Glion , Collonges , Veytaux etc., which here lie scattered along the bank of the lake and the neigh- bouring heights, all belong to the parish of Montreux (*Hotel de LUnion; Pont). From the lofty church a magnificent *view is enjoyed, extending from the mouth of the Rhone to a point far beyond Lausanne. Montreux is much resorted to as a winter residence by persons in delicate health on account of the mildness of the climate. Abundant accommodation is afforded by the num- erous pensions (3V2 — 8. fr. per day) in the neighbourhood. About midway between Montreux and Villeneuve rises the *Castle of Chilton on a rock in the lake, 60 ft. from the bank, with which a bridge connects it. It was once a stronghold of the Counts of Savoy, afterwards a state-prison; since 1798 it has been employed as an arsenal and a prison for military con- victs. Its principal celebrity is derived from Byron’s “Prisoner of Chillon”, which was written at the “Ancre” at Ouchy, and the history of Bonivard, prior of St. Victor at Geneva, who was confined here in 1530 — 36. The apartments with their ancient wooden ceilings, the subterranean vaults with their pillars and arches, and the interesting reminiscences connected with the castle render it well worthy of a visit (gratuity 1 fr.). Villeneuve (Hotel de Ville ) lies at the mouth of the Rhone Valley, but at some distance from the river. The railway on the r. bank' of the Rhone unites with that on the 1. bank at •St. Maurice (see below). The latter at present terminates at Bouveret , where the trains correspond with the steamers. The railway along the S. (French) bank of the lake to Geneva is in process of construction. to Arona. SION. 3. Route. 43 The lower part of the Rhone Valley, 3 M. in breadth and enclosed by lofty mountains, is marshy. The vine-clad slopes on the 1., especially those of Yvorne , produce some of the most esteemed Swiss wines. Stations Aigle , Ollon St. Triphon, Bex. At St. Maurice the valley contracts. The railway of the r. bank here crosses the river and unites with the line on the 1. bank. Stat. St. Maurice (Hotel de la Dent du Midi; Ecu du Valais ) is an old town with very narrow streets, confined between the river and a wall of rock in the rear. The richly endowed Abbey, founded as early as 515 by the Emp. Sigismund, contains some curious old works of art. To the r. , 1 M. from stat. Vernayaz is the *Pissevache, or waterfall of the Sallenche , which descends from the- glaciers of the Dent du Midi and is here precipitated into the Rhone Valley from a height of 120 ft. About 3 / 4 M. S. of Vernayaz, on the r., is the imposing *Gorge du Trient , accessible for a distance of V2 by means of galleries (admission 1 fr.). . Martigny (* Hotel Clerc; *H6tel de la Tour; Granae-Maison- Poste; Cygne) is a busy place in summer, being at the junction of the Simplon and Great St. Bernard routes and the bridle- paths over the Tete Noire and Col de Balme to Chamouny (9 hrs.). On a height (1860 ft.), situated at the extremity of the right angle which the valley of the Rhone here forms, rises the ruined castle of La Batia , the position of which renders it a command- ing point of view. The railway Tuns hence in a straight direction to the Baths of Saxon (Inn) and Riddes, where it crosses the Rhone. Sion (*Hotel de la Poste ; Lion d'Or), with 4207 inhab. , the principal place in the Canton of Valais , which in 1810 — -15 be- longed to France under the name of Departement du Simplon , presents -an imposing aspect with the picturesque castles tower- ing above it. Two of these, the Tourhillon (*view) and Majoria , were burned down in 1788; Valeria , the third, erected on the ruins of a Roman castle, now serves as an ecclesiastical semi- nary. The adjacent church of St. Catharine, founded in the 9th cent., is interesting to architects. The only buildings in. the town worthy of notice are the Cathedral and the elegant church of St. Theodule adjoining it. A leisure hour is best employed in ascending to the castle of Tourbillon (20 min.). 44 Route 3. SIERRE. From Lausanne 9 3 /4 M. Sierre (*Hotel et Pension Baur; Soleil) is pictu- resquely situated on an eminence, with some ruins in the vicinity. Excellent wine is produced in the environs. The road soon crosses the Rhone. The small village of Pfyn forms the boun- dary between the French and German languages, the latter only being spoken beyond this point. To the 1. rises the important looking market-town of Leuk ,. or Loeche, with its castle and towers, high above the Rhone. Above the Gorge of the Data, which here opens on the 1., the spire of Yaren glitters on a height. To the r. of Leuk, high above it, lies the Alpine village of Albinen on a shelving pasture. The road next passes through the small village of Susten (*H6telde la Souste). 9 M. Tourtemagne or Turtman ( *Post ; Sonne): To the 1., high above in the Lotschenthal which here opens, rise the icy slopes of the Tschingel Glacier ; to the r. in the background is the broad Simplon group, with the grand arch of the Kali- wasser Glacier (see below). L., above Raron, rises the snow- clad Bietschhorn (12,169 ft.). 8V2 M. Vispach or Visp , French Viege (* Sonne, R. 2, B. 1 i / ir D. 3V 2 , A. V2 l 1 '-? Post), a village with beautiful environs, was seriously injured by an earthquake in July, 1855. *Views from the sluice and the churchyard. The magnificent mountain visible in the background of the valley of the Visp is the Balferin (11,636 ft.), the first peak of the Mischdbel or Saasgrat, which separates the valley of Saas and St. Nicholas. [An excursion to Zermatt and the Gorner Grat may be accomplished in two days from Vispach if a horse (10 fr.) be taken to St. Nicholas and a char-a-bancs (12 fr.) thenGe to Zermatt; the Gorner Grat may then be ascended, and Vispach regained in the same manner as before (comp. BccdekeFs Switzerland ).] 54/4 M. Brieg (2180 ft.) (*Post or Trois Couronnes ; *Engl. Hof, R. 2, B. l 1 /^, A. V2 f r 0> is a small town at the base of tho Simplon, at the commencement of the Simplon Route, which was constructed by order of Napoleon in 1800 — 6, and after the Brenner (p. 72) was the first carriage-road across the Alps from Switzerland to Italy. At Brieg the road quits the valley of the Rhone and ascends by long and numerous windings on the mountains of the 1. bank to Arona. SIMPLON. 3. Route. 45 of the river. By means of a long circuit to the E. the Ganter- thal is avoided, 12 M. Berisal (4768),’ the 3rd Refuge, is also a post-house and *inn. Above the 4th Refuge a retrospect is obtained in clear weather of the Bernese Alps (to the N.), from which the huge Aletsch Glacier descends. That portion of the road be- tween the 5th Refuge and the culminating point is the most dangerous during the season of avalanches and storms. Within a distance of 2V 2 M. there are six houses of refuge and a hospice. The road passes through the Kaltwasser Glacier Gallery , over which the stream from the glacier is precipitated into the abyss below. The fall is visible through a lateral opening. From the 6th Refuge a splendid final view is enjoyed of the Bernese Alps and the Aletsch Glacier; far below in the Rhone Valley lies Brieg. The Simplon Pass is 6218 ft. above the sea-level. About 3/ 4 M. beyond the summit is the Hospice (no payment demanded for hospitality, but strangers should contribute to the funds of the establishment at least as much as they would have paid at an hotel), a stately structure founded by Napoleon, but not completed till 1825. A broad, open valley, carpeted at places with rhododendrons, here forms the highest part of the Simplon Pass, above which snow-peaks and glaciers rise. The imposing Raut Glacier is conspicuous on the mountains to the S. The Old Hospice, a lofty square tower now tenanted by herdsmen, lies far below the new road. Farther on are the Balm Glacier on the 1., and the Rossboden Glacier with its moraine on the r. 15 M. Simplon (4340 ft.), Germ. Simpeln , Ital. Sempione (Post; *Vue du Fletschhorn, at the lower end of the village). The road now describes a great curve to the S., which pedestrians may cut off by a rugged path and regain the road at the Algaby Gallery. Here the most remarkable part of the Simplon route begins. It leads through the *Ravine of Gondo, one of the wildest and grandest among the Alps, which becomes narrower and more profound at every step, until its smooth and precipitous walls of mica-slate completely overhang the road, whilst on the other side the Diveria careers wildly over its rocky channel. The most remarkable of the tunnels which here pierce the rocks is the Gallery of Gondo, 683 ft. in length, constructed in 1805 and 46 Route 3. ORNAVASSO. fortified by the Swiss in 1830. At the issue of the gallery the Fressinone (or Alpienbach ) dashes over, the rocks from a consider- able height into the gorge beneath. A slender bridge crosses this cascade. The rocks rise to a dizzy height (about 2000 ft.) on both sides. The sombre entrance of the gallery presents a striking contrast to the white foam of the torrent. This magni- ficent Alpine *scene, especially when viewed from a distance of 40 — 50 paces, surpasses the celebrated Via Mala (p. 58) itself. Gondo is the last Swiss village; V 2 M. beyond it is the Italian boundary-column. S. Marco is the first Italian village. 9 M. Iselle (2019 ft.) (*Posta; one-horse carr. to Domo d’Ossola 7 fr.) is the seat of the Italian custom-house. The wildest scenery is now quitted, but the valley continues to be extremely picturesque. It unites with the broad and fruitful valley of the Tosa (or Toce ) at the lofty bridge of Crevola. The valley is now termed the Val d'Ossola. The characteristics of the scenery are thoroughly Italian. 9 M. Domo d’Ossola (942 ft.) (*Grand Hotel de laVille , spa- cious apartments ; Grand Hotel d'Espagne) is a small town of Italian aspect. One-horse carr. to Baveno 15, Brieg 45, three- horse carr. to Brieg 80 fr. Diligence daily (fare 6 fr.) to Pal- lanza on Lago Maggiore (p. 176). At Masone , where the Anzasca Valley opens on the W., the Tosa is crossed by a bridge which has frequently been destroyed by . inundations. 9 M. Vogogna (*Corona) is situated at the base of precipitous rocks. The next villages are Premosello , Corciago and Migiandone , where the Tosa is crossed by means of a ferry. 7 1 / 2 M. Ornavasso (Auberge d’ltalie ; Croce Bianca). The marble-quarries in the vicinity, especially those on the slopes of the 1. bank of the Tosa, yielded the material of which the cathedral of Milan is constructed. To the S. a road leads through the valley of the Strona , which falls into the Tosa near Gravel - Iona (Europa), to the beautiful *Lake of Orta (p. 182; diligence daily between Orta, Gravellona, Pallanza and Intra, see R. 23). Fariblo , the next village, is situated in a most luxuriant district, abounding in olives, chestnuts, figs, vineyards and fields of maize. The road passes an extensive quarry of granite, of which the magnificent columns of the restored Basilica S. Paolo fuori le Mura near Rome are formed, and soon reaches the S.W. bank ARONA. 3. Route. 47 of the Lago Maggiore (R. 22), from which the Isold Madre , the most northern of the Bovvonnedn Islands, rises prominently. 7 \j m. Baveno (*Beaurivage ; Bellevue) is a steamboat station, at which however all the vessels do not touch (comp. p. 176). Travellers from the Simplon usually visit the Borromean Islands hence. The road, almost entirely supported by buttresses of granite and masonry, skirts the lake and leads to Stress (*Hbtel des lies Borromees , V4 M. N. of the village; Albergo Reale, on the lake), a steamboat- station, still more convenient than Baveno for visiting the Borromean Islands. Then Belgirate> Lesa and Meina. 12 M. Arona see p. 178. Railway (by Novara) to Milan see RR. 22, 24, 18; to Genoa R. 22; to Turin RR. 22, 24, 18. — By Sesto Calende to Milan see p. 179. 4. From Lucerne to Como (and Milan) over the St. Gotthard. Steamboat from Lucerne to Fluelen 4 times daily in 23 / 4 hrs. (fare 4 fr. 60 c.); from Fliielen to Como Dili g en ce (.which conveys passengers to Camerlata, p. 157) twice daily in summer in 22 hrs. (coupe 37 fr. 80 c., interieur 31 fr. 90 c.) Passengers may engage their seats at the post-otfice at Lucerne, on the steamboat, 4 at Fliielen or at Altorf. Direct tickets to Milan are issued at Bale (53 fr. 45 c., 49 fr. 25 c.) and Aarau (50 fr. 50, 47 fr. 10 c.). Passengers forwarding their luggage by post, when they themselves contemplate a digression (e. g. to the Rigi), should address it to Altorf, not to Fliielen.' Inside-passengers see little or nothing of the magnificent scenery, a coupe seat should therefore if possible be engaged. There are two very desirable seats outside, both at the disposal of the conductor, who will on application (5-6 fr.) assign one to the traveller. Those who fail to secure a coupe seat are recommended not to pay their fare until shortly before the departure of the diligence, in which case they, being among the last on the list of passengers, will most pro- bably have seats assigned to them in a supplementary carriage, whence the scenery can be surveyed to advantage. — The landlords of the hotels at Fluelen, Andermatt or Hospenthal, Airolo, Magadino, Faido, Bellinzona, Lugano and Como have instituted a system of private posting, according to which a carriage for 4-5 pers. with two horses from Fluelen to Como costs 150 fr. (to which about 24 fr. for gratuities must be added; 2 fr. at least for each station). The cost therefore for four persons is but slightly in excess of the coupe fare. A written agreement (specifying fees) should he made with the proprietor of the carriage for the entire journey. Fresh horses are procured' by exhibiting this at each stage. The night is spent at Airolo or Faido. Payment is made at the end of the journey. The agents of these carriage-proprietors generally present themselves on board the steamboats and are provided with printed tariffs of the fares. 48 Route i. LUCERNE. From Lucerne Lucerne (*Schweizer Hof, *Luzerner Hof, *Englischer Hof, all with high chai’ges, but excellent; Cygne; Hotel du Rigi; these five are opp.the steamb. -piers. *W age, on theReuss, moderate, Ro ssli, Adler, *Post, Mohren, Hirsch, all in the town and of humbler pretension), capital of the Canton of that name (with 11,600 inhab.), is situated at the efflux of the green Reuss from the Lake of Lucerne. Its well-preserved walls and watch-towers, as well as its palatial modern hotels, impart an important aspect to the town. The view from the quay is strikingly beautiful. The celebrated *Lion of Lucerne (5 min. from the Schweizerhof) was sculptured in 1821, from Thorwaldsen’s design, to the memory of 26 officers and 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, who were cruelly massacred in the defence of the Tuileries, Aug. 10th, 1792. The dying lion (28 V 2 ft- in length) reclines in a grotto, its body transfixed by a broken lance, its paw sheltering the Bourbon lily. — E. of the Lion, towards the lake, : rises the Ilofkirche , or Stiftskirche, dating from the 17th cent. ; towers erected 1506; celebrated organ. — The extensive Arsenal, on the 1. bank of the Reuss, contains a number of weapons and other trophies taken by the confede- rates from the Burgundians and Austrians on different occasions. Charming walks: W. to the *Gutsch (a steep ascent of i /4 hr* from the Bale Gate), or to Gibraltar; S. by the avenue to Kriens ; E. to Allenwinden; to the *I)rei Linden, 3 /4 hr. E. , near the Capuchin Monastery on the Wesemlin, a remarkably fine point of view. *Pilatus (6840 ft.), on which there are two. inns, may be ascended in 31/2—4 hrs. from Hergiswyl (*Rossli, unpretending) or from Alpnach (Hotel Pilate), villages on the lake at the base of the mountain, where horses may be procured (comp. Baedeker's Switzerland). The **Lake of Lucerne (1345 ft.), or Lake of the Four Forest-Cantons (viz. JJri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, Lucerne ) is sur- passed by no lake in Switzerland, or even in Europe, in the magnificence of its scenery. It is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnacht and Alpnach the arms, and the bay of Buochs and the Lake of Uri the foot. Length from Lucerne to Fliielen 25 M. , greatest width 3 V 2 M., between the extremities of the arms 15 M. The Steamboats start from the vicinity of the railway station and touch at the piers on the opposite bank, near the hotels; before their final departure. Strikingly picturesque retrospect to Como. WAGGIS. 4. Route. 49 of the town, shortly after the quay is quitted. As the vessel proceeds, the Rigi on the 1., Pilatus on the r., and the Burgen- stock and Stanser Horn in a straight direction are the most conspicuous mountains. L. of Pilatus, above the mountains of Sachselen, rise the majestic Bernese snow mountains: Jungfrau, Eiger, Monch, the Wetterhorner and the Schreckhorner. A ’ view to the 1. is soon obtained of the Lake of Kilss- nacht, and to the r. of that of Alpnach, and the central point of the cross which the , lake forms is attained. Kussnacht is visible to the E. in the distance. On the bank to the 1. rise the ruins of Neu-Habsburg . On the S. is the sombre, wooded Burgenstock (3442 ft/fc more to the r. tower the barren peaks of the strikingly picturesque Pilatus. On the 1. rises the Rigi , at the base of which gardens, orchards and bright looking houses are situated, whilst above these the mountain is wooded and clothed with rich pastures. At its base lies (1.) Waggis (*Ldwe; Concordia), in a most fertile tract, the usual landing-place for those who purpose ascending - the Rigi from the S.W. side. The *K.igi (5541 ft.), with its exquisite view (numerous inns and pen- sions) may be reached from Lucerne in 4l/ 2 hr s. Ascent from Arth, Goldau, Kussnacht, Wdgqis' or Fitznau in 3L/ 2 hrs., from Mimensee 8%, from Gersau and Lower z 4 — 41/2 brs. That from Arth, Goldau or Lowerz is recommended, then the descent to Waggis. Comp, BWdefceFs Switzerland. The next village on the ). is Fitznau, with the lofty red precipice of the Rothenfluh. Two promontories, aptly termed the Nasen (noses), the one a spuf of the Rigi, the other of the Burgenstock, here extend far into the lake and appear Jo terminate it. Beyond this strait the lake towards the W. takes the name of the Lake of Buochs from the village of Buochs (Rossli ; Kreuz) on the r., above which the Buochser Horn (5570 ft.) and Stanser Horn (5847 ft.) rise. Beckenried (*Sonne; Mond), to which the steamer now crosses, is delightfully situated on the lake. Then, on the opposite bank, Gersau (*Hotel Muller; *Sonne), a village in the Gariton of Schwyz, situated On a narrow strip of fertile land and enclosed by rocks. O 11 the ridge of the mountain above stands the sani- tary establishment of the Rigi-Scheideck (5073 ft.). To the E. rise the bald summits of the two Mythen (5858 ft. and 55,86 ft.), at the base of which, 3 M. inland, the small town of Schwyz lies. On the bank of the lake, at the mouth of the 4 Baedeker. Italy I. 50 Route d. FLUELEN. From Lucerne Muotta, Brunnen (Aigle d'Or; *Rbssli ; *Hirsch) is situated, the harbour of Canton Schwyz. On the opposite hank, in Canton Uri, is Treib , a small harbour. On a height above stands the village of Seelisberg (2336 ft.), with the two much frequented ^sanitary establishments near the chapel of Maria Sonnenberg (2587 ft.). Above these rises the Niederbauen or Seelisberger Kulm (5938 ft.), commanding a noble prospect. The S. arm of the lake, or Bay of TJri, commences at Brunnen. This is the grandest part of the lake, the mountains rising almost perpendicularly on both sides. Near the sharp promontory which projects into the lake opposite Brunnen, the Wytenstein, or Mythenstein , a rocky pyramid 80 ft. in height, rises from the lake. It bears an inscription in honour of Schiller. A short distance farther, at the base of the Seelisberg, lies the Riitli , a meadow with a few cottages, memorable as the spot where on the night of Nov. 7th, 1307, the first Swiss league (between Uri, Schwyz and Uriterwalden) was solemnly entered into. A short distance farther, on the opposite bank, rises the Achsenberg (3146 ft.), at the base of which nestles the Chapel of Tell amid rock and wood. It stands on the Platte , a rock on the verge of the lake (steamboat-stat. and *hotel), which is said to have been the spot where Tell sprang out of Gessler’s boat when overtaken by a storm. The road above, leading from Brunnen to Fliielen, a distance of 7 i / i M., hewn in many places through the solid rock, far above the level of the lake, is ex- tremely interesting and imposing. — The view of the extremity of the lake, as Fliielen is approached, is magnificent. The most prominent mountain, rising abruptly on the r., with a summit resembling an old castle, is the Gitschen (7560 ft.). Above the valley of the Reuss in the distance towers the imposing pyramid of the Bristenstock (9464 ft.). Above Fliielen, to the 1., rises the Windgelle (9818 ft.). The steamer now stops at (25 M. from Lucerne) the village of Fliielen, Ital. Fiora ( *Adler ; Kreuz; both of moderate pre- tensions), at the S. extremity of the Lake of Lucerne, magnifi- cently situated. A short distance to the W. the Reuss is conducted into the lake by an artificial channel. The St. Gotthard road leads hence to (2 M.) Altorf (* Adler; *Schlussel; Lowe; to Como. AMSTAG. 4. Route. 51 Sonne ; Kreuz), the capital (2430 inhab.) of Canton Uri. A colossal Statue of Tell in plaster stands on the spot whence the intrepid archer is said to have aimed his arrow at the apple on his son’s head. L. of the road beyond the town stands the Arsenal of the canton. Farther on, at the entrance of the Schdchenthal , the brook descending from which is crossed by the road, lies the village of Burglen (*Tell), the birthplace of Tell. To the r., on the opposite bank of the Reuss, rises the church- tower of Attinghausen , with the ruined castle of that name. The road approaches the river at the Klus, opposite the village of Erstfelden. To the 1. rise the abrupt Kleine (9240 ft.) and Grosse Windgelle (9818 ft.). As the road approaches Silinen a fine view of the superb pyramid of the Bristenstock (9464 ft.), which appears to close the valley, is obtained. IOV 2 M. Amstag (1557 ft.) (*Kreuz; *Hirsch; * Stern ; Lowe) lies most picturesquely at the base of the Bristenstock and the Windgelle, at the mouth of the Maderanerthal , from which the Kdrstelenbach descends impetuously to the Reuss. Here the higher part of the St. Gotthard Route, constructed in 1820 — 32 by the cantons of Uri and Tessin, commences. The magnificence of the scenery probably surpasses that of any of the other Alpine passes. The road at first gradually ascends on the 1. bank of the Reuss, which flows in its profound bed far below and forms several waterfalls. The huge pyramid of the Bristen- stock is now on the 1. Near Intschi (2035 ft), a village 1 Va M. from Amstag, a fall of the Leutschachbach is passed, and beyond it one of the Intschialp- bach. The next bridge, that of the Pfaffensprung, affords an admirable view in both directions. The river careers wildly through a rocky gully far beneath. The road next crosses the impetuous Mayenbach, which descends from the Susten. Wasen (2891 ft.) (*Oc.hs), 6 M. from Intschi, is most picturesquely situated on a height. To the r. is a beautiful waterfall of the Rohralpbach, near Wattingen , where the road again crosses the Reuss. To the W. of Goschenen (3391 ft.) (*Rossli, unpretend- ing), 374 M. from Wasen, opens the valley of the Goschenen-Reuss, terminated by the grand Dammafirn or Sandb aim- Glacier. Beyond Goschenen the wild rocky ravine of the *Schollenen commences. On both sides rise lofty and precipitous cliffs of granite, whilst 4* 52 Route 4. ANDERMATT. From Lucerne the Reuss foams through its profound channel below the road. The road winds upwards and crosses 8 bridges. Pedestrians may avoid most of the curves by following the old bridle-path. This part of the road is greatly exposed to avalanches. A gallery or tunnel, 80 yds. in length, carries it past the most ha- zardous spot. The *Devil's Bridge (4344 ft.) is now reached, in the midst of a scene of the wildest desolation. The Reuss here forms a beautiful cascade, descending from a height of 100 ft. and bedewing the bridge with its spray. The old moss-grown bridge below is now disused. In 1799 this spot was the scene of fierce strug- gles between the French and Austrians, and a month later between French and Russians. The road now passes through the Urner Loch, a tunnel 80 yds. long, hewn in the solid rock in 1707,_ but not accessible to carriages until it was enlarged when the new road was constructed. The Valley of IJrseren (4700 ft.), which the road enters on emerging from the tunnel, presents a striking contrast to the savage region just traversed. This peaceful dale, watered by the Reuss and surrounded by lofty and partially snow-clad mountains, was probably a lake before the Reuss had forced a passage through the Schollenen. 1 3 1 / 2 M. Andermatt (4445 ft.) or Urseren, Ital. Orsera (*St. Gott- hard; *Post), 1 M. from the Devil’s Bridge, 3 M. from Gosche- nen, is the principal place in the valley. During the war of 1799 the village suffered severely, thousands of French, Austrian and Russian troops having been successively quartered here. The Oberalp route, leading to the Yalley of the Yorder-Rhein and Coire, diverges here to the 1. Hospenthul (*Meyerhof; *Lowe moderate), 1 y 2 M. farther, derives its name from a former hos- pice. The Furca road diverges to the r. and leads to Realp and the Rhone Glacier. The St. Gotthard road now ascends by numerous windings in a bleak valley on the 1. bank of that branch of the Reuss which descends from the Lucendro-See (6412 ft.) (not visible from the road). The road crosses the river for the last time by the Rodunt Bridge, 1 M. below the culminating point of the Pass of St. Gotthard (6507 ft.). The road passes several small lakes and traverses a lofty and dreary valley, enclosed by the highest to Como. AIROLO. 4. Route. 53 snow-clad peaks of the St. Gotthard group: E. the Prosa (9241 ft.) and the Tritthorn (8760 ft.); W. the Lucendro or Pizza di Ymei (9109 ft.), and the Fibia (8441 ft.). 10 M. Hospice of St. Gotthard (6443 ft.), for poor travellers. Adjacent is the small *H6tel de la Prosa. Minerals, as well as Newfoundland dogs of a superior breed, may he purchased here. Pedestrians, by avoiding the innumerable windings of the road, may descend hence to Airolo in IVa.hr. Snow often lies on the pass throughout the summer. About Va t>e low tlie hospice the road crosses the Ticino, the principal arm of which takes its rise in the Sella Lake to the E (not visible from the road). A few min. walk farther, near a large mass of rock lying by the road, an inscription on the rock rising above the old Bridle-Path commemorates the events Of 1799. The words '“Suwarow Vidor” only are now legible. At the 1st Refuge, the Cantoniera S. Antonio , the road enters the dreary and inhospitable Val Trembla , where avalanches and storms are very prevalent in winter and spring. Pedestrians effect a great saving by following the telegraph-wires. Beyond the Val Tremola an extensive *view of the green valley of Airolo, down- wards as far as Quinto, is enjoyed. To the r. opens the picturesque Val Bedretto, from which the W. arm of the Ticino descends. 8 M. Airolo (3629 ft.) (*Post), the first village where Italian is spoken, situated on the Ticino, is admirably adapted as head- quarters for those who desire to explore the S. slopes of the St Gotthard The road now soon enters the Stretto di Stalvedro , a defile which was defended in 1795 by 600 French against 3000 Russian grenadiers, and passes by means of rock-hewn galleries through four parallel ridges which descend to the Ti- cino. On the r. bank, 1 M. below the ravine , is the beautiful waterfall of the Calcaccia. Beyond the poor inn of Bazio Grande (2918 ft.) a second rocky *gorge commences. The Ticino has here forced its passage through the Monte Piottino and descends through the sombre gully in a series of ^cascades. The road passes these falls and at one place leads for a distance of 50 paces beneath an over- hanging rock. On the r. near Faido, where the culture of the vine commences, is the copious and picturesque waterfall of the Piumegna. 54 Route 4. FAIDO. From Lucerne IO /2 M. Faido (2201 ft.) C* Angelo j Sole), a village of a thoroughly Italian aspect, is the principal place in the Leventina, as the entire valley of the Ticino is termed. This district formerly belonged to Canton Uri and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailiffs, who purchased their appointments from the authorities. An insurrection broke out in 1755, hut was suppressed. The French effected a change in the mode of go- vernment in 1798. In 1814 the Congress of Vienna decided that the Leventina and the seven other Italian bailiwicks belonging to Switzerland should .together constitute the new Canton of Tessin or Ticino. The road passes through beautiful scenery. Numerous cam- panili in the Italian style peep most picturesquely from the sur- rounding heights. Cascades are precipitated from the cliffs on the r. and 1. ; that of the *Cribiaschina resembles a veil in form. Huge masses' of rock lie scattered about, interspersed with fine chestnut-trees. To the r. on the hill is a complete chestnut- grove. Vines and mulberries now begin to appear. Where the road descends by numerous windings to the lower region of the valley, the Ticino forms another beautiful waterfall, spanned by a bridge over which the road passes. Beyond Giornico (1158 ft.) (Cervo; Corona) another picturesque fall on the r., termed La Cremusina. Here, on Dec. 28th, 1478, 600 Swiss troops gained a glorious victory over an army of 15,000 Milanese. 9 I 2 M. Bodio (1019 ft.) (*Aquila). Beyond Polleggio the Brenno falls into the Ticino. It descends from the Val Blegno, through which it is proposed to construct a railway, crossing the Lukmanier (5901 ft.), the lowest of the Swiss passes, and leading through the Vorder-Rheinthal to Coire. The valley of the Ticino now expands and takes the name of Riviera, ox river-valley. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries and fig-trees now apprise the traveller of his proximity to the “Garden of the Earth, fair Italy . The vines extend their dense foliage over wooden framework supported by stone pillars, 10—12 ft. in height. Fre- quent inundations render the district unhealthy. At Biasca (Unione), 3 M. from Bodio, the road through the Val Blegno to Olivone diverges. 3 3 / 4 M. Osogna (905 ft.). At Cresciano there are several picturesque waterfalls. On the *1., above Claro, rises the mona- to Como. BELLINZONA. 4. Route. 55 stery of S. Maria. On the 1. the road from the Bernardino (p. 63) descends, and a short distance farther the road crosses the Moesa which rises on the Bernardino. Arbedo (comp. p. 63), lies to the 1. of the road. 9>/ 2 M. Bellinzona (714 ft.) (*H6tel de Ville, without the S. gate ; Angelo), one of the three capitals of the Canton Tessin and seat of the government alternately with Lugano (p. 169) and Locarno (p. 175), presents a strikingly picturesque and imposing appearance when viewed from a distance. The charm, however, is dispelled when the town is entered. The three picturesque castles , once fortified, were the residence of the bailiffs of the three ancient confederate cantons (“Ur-Cantone”> The Castello Grande, on an isolated hill to the W., belonged to Un; of the others on the E. the lower, II Castello di Mezzo , belonged to Schwyz, and the Castello Corbario or Corbe (1410 ft.), the highest, now a ruin, to Unterwalden. Each once possessed a small garrison and a few guns. The Castello Grande now serves as an arsenal and prison; visitors are permitted to pass through the court and gardens in order to enjoy the strikingly beautiful view which it commands (fee to the guide). An equally attrac- tive prospect may be enjoyed from the loftily situated pilgrimage- chapel of S. Maria della Salute. The road now descends the broad Yalley of the Ticino, which expands as the Lago Maggiore is approached, and skirts the E J . and S. bases of the mountains. The luxuriance of the vegetation and the beautiful forms of the mountains enhance the charms of the scenery. Near Cadenazzo the road to Magadino (p. 64) on the Lago Maggiore diverges to the r. The road now quits the valley and winds upwards for 4 M. on the slopes of Monte Cenere, through magnificent chestnut plantations, command- ing a succession of *views of Bellinzona and the Ticino Yalley, the influx of the latter into the Lago Maggiore, the N. portion of the lake and Locarno (p. 175). Erom the culminating point of this part of the road (1702 ft ), where a guard-house and the Osteria Nuova are situated, the road descends through a fertile valley to 91/2 M. Birdnico (1390 ft.), beyond which the Vedeggio is reached. This brook, often dry in summer, rises a few miles 56 Route 5. COIRE. to the E. at the base of the Monte Camoghe (6752 ft.), a mountain which commands a most extensive and magnificent view of the entire Alpine chain from Piedmont to the Yal Tellina, the lakes of N. Italy and the broad plains of Lombardy. A fine view of the lakes may also be enjoyed from the summit of Monte Ceriere (3866 ft.), which rises to the W. of the Osteria Nuova (mentioned above) and may be reached thence in 2 hrs. Beyond Bironico the scenery is picturesque and the country fertile. The double peak of Mte. Camoghe long remains in sight on the 1. Then (372 M.) Taverne Superiori, V4 M. *Taverne In- feriori , 272 M. Cadempino, 1 M. Vezia (view from the church of Madonna di S. Martino). As Lugano is approached the scenery becomes richer and the vegetation more luxuriant. The Monte S. Salvador e with its pilgrimage-church soon comes in view, then the clear green Lake of Lugano in which the beautiful outlines of the mountains are reflected. A number of villas are next passed, and the town with its flat roofs is reached. 9 3 /4 M. Lugano (874 ft.) and thence to 19 3 /4 Como see R. 20, No. 2. 5. From Coire to Colico ( and Milan) over the Splugen. Diligence from Coire to Colico twice daily in summer in I 6 I /4 hrs., comfortable vehicles (fare 22 fr. 10 c.). Remarks as to seats see p. 47. Coire (1819 ft.) (*Steinbock; *Freieck; *Lukmdnier, near the stat. ; charges in all, R. 2—3, B. 1 7 2 , A. 3 / 4j L. 72 fr - — *Stem / Bother Lowe, near the post-office), Germ. Chur, capital of the Can- ton of the Grisons or Graubiinden, situated on the Plessur, l 1 / 2 M. from its confluence with the Rhine, is an episcopal residence with 7560 inhab. Within the precincts of the Episcopal Court, which is surrounded by walls and rises above the town, stands the *Cathedral of St. Lucius , the oldest part dating, it is said, from the 8th cent, (choir erected in 1178—1208, nave consecrated in 1282). The antiquated Episcopal Palace adjoins it. The Chapel, one of the earliest Christian structures in this district, lies within the walls of the old Roman tower of Marsoel (Mars in oculis), which is connected with the Palace on the N. This tower and another named Spinoel (Spina in oculis) form the N. REICHENAU. 5 . Route. 57 angles of the Court. Their names suggest the mode in which the Rhtetians were kept in subjection by their Roman conquerors. An ancient tower to the N.W., as well as the adjacent wall, appear also to tie of Roman origin. The High Road from Coire (leading to the Spliigen, the Bernardino and the Vorder-Rheinthal) ascends the broad valley of the Rhine, which as far as Reichenau is nearly level. Un the farther bank of the river, at the base of the Calanda lies the village of Felsberg , partially buried by a landslip m 180U. The road passes through the thriving village of Ems, near t e ruins of the ancient castle of Hohenems. A long and dark covered bridge, 80 ft. above the Rhine, now carries the road to _6 M. Reichenau (1804 ft.) (Adler), a group of houses at the union of the V order and Hinter- Rhein , which may be viewed Trom the ^garden of M. de Planta, adjoining the inn. The cha- teau, opposite the entrance of the garden, erected by the bishops of Coire, was at the close of the last century an educational establishment of high reputation, in which, from Oct. to June 1794, Louis Philippe, then Due de Chartres, held the situation of teacher of French and mathematics under the name of Chabos. Various mementoes of his visit still exist. A second covered wooden bridge (so low as to endanger the heads of outside passengers) now crosses the Vorder-Rhein , immediately above its confluence with the Hinter-Rhein. Through the. valley of the Vorder-Rhein a road (not crossing this bridge) leads on the slopes of the 1. bank of the river to Bisentis, whence a bridle- path crosses the Lukmdnier to Olivone; from which a high road runs to Biased on the St. Gotthard route. This is the direction which a long projected railway will take. The road now enters the valley of the Hinter-Rhein and ascends a hill. It passes the villages of Bonaduz and Rhdziins , with a castle of the Vieli fa- mily. The Domleschg Valley, Romanesque Tomiliasea (vallis do - mestica), as the E. bank of the valley of the Hinter-Rhein is here termed (the W. side is called Heinzenberg or Montagna ), is remarkable for its fertility and its numerous castles. Some of the villages are Romanesque others German; some are Rom. Cath., others Protestant. Between the Rothenbrunn Bridge and Katzis are the castles of Juvalta , Ortenstein, Paspels, Canova and Rietberg on the L 58 Route 5 . THUSIS. From Coire and that of Realta on the r. L. of the road is the large House of Correction of the Canton of the Grisons. R. near Katzis (2053 ft.) (Kreuz) is a nunnery. Scenery picturesque. S. rises the white peak of the Piz Curver (9155 ft.); more to the I. is the Schyn Pass, beyond which is the Piz St. Michel (9731 ft); N the Tinzenhorn with the Ringelspitz (9730 ft.). Near the village of Masein rises the castle of Tagstein. 11 M. Thusis (2182 ft.), Romanesque Tosaun (Tuscia) (*Via Mala; * Adler; in both R. 2, B. 1%, A. »/ 4 fr, ; *H6tel et Pension Rhcetia) lies at the confluence of the Rhine and the Nolla , the turbid water of which tinges the Rhine for a considerable distance. The view from the bridge by which the road crosses the Nolla is interesting ; in the background of the Nolla-Thal towers the barren Piz Bevexin (9234 ft.). Beyond Thusis the valley of the Rhine is apparently termi- nated by lofty mountains. The entrance of the ravine from which the Rhine issues is guarded on the r. bank by the ruined castle of Hohen-Rhatien or Hoch-Realt, on the S. side of the mountain ; on the N. side stands the Chapel of St. John, the most ancient Christian place of worship in the valley. Prior to 1822 the bridle-path from Thusis ascended the valley of the Nolla on the r. bank of the stream and did not reach the Gorge before Rongellen, r. of the present road. The route through the celebrated *Via Mala was then 4 ft. broad only and followed the 1. bank. The new road was constructed m 1822. On entering the defile the traveller will not fail to be struck by its sombre gloom. The limestone-rocks rise abruptly on both sides to a height of 1500 ft. The Kdnzli at the entrance of the ravine commands a fine view of Hohen-Rhatien, Thusis and the Heinzenberg. About V/ 2 M. from Thusis is the Verlorne Loch, a tunnel 70 yds. in length, by which the road penetrates the rock. Beyond it the road passes beneath a huge overhanging cliff. At the point where the stone parapet terminates, and the wooden railing recommences, a survey of the roaring torrent below is obtained. The ^retrospect hence, through the narrow and gloomy defile, of the desolate tower of Hohen-Rhatien and the smiling slopes of the Heinzenberg beyond is singular and picturesque. to Calico. ANDEER. 5. Route. 59 At the *post-house of Rongellen the gorge expands, hut soon again contracts. The road crosses the river three times within a short distance. The grandest point of view is the *Second Bridge, 1 M. from Rongellen. About 300 ft. below the river gurgles through its tortuous gorge, which is so narrow that the walls above almost meet. During an inundation in Aug., 1834, the water completely filled the gully and nearly reached the arch of the bridge. The Via Mala terminates at the upper bridge, about 1 M. farther. The road now enters the Schamser Thai [2663 ft.) (Valhs Sexamniensis , from the six brooks which are here precipitated from the rocks; Jtal. SessameJ , the green meadows and cheerful habitations of which present a pleasing contrast to the sombre defile just quitted. To the S. in the background is the pointed summit of the Hirli [5346 ft.). Above the old bridge the Rhine forms a small waterfall. At the termination of the ravine [6 M. from Thusis) lies Zillis, Roman . Ciraun [Inn), with the oldest church in the valley. On a height to the r. stands the ruined castle of Fardun or La Turr. Farther down is the village of Donat , above which towers the Piz Beverin [9234 ft.) [ascent ‘from Zillis 7 hrs.). 71/2 M. Andeer [3004 ft.) (*Krone or Hotel Fravi) is the principal place in the valley, with 581 Romansch inhab. In the vicinity rises the tower of Castellatsch. The church, built in 1673, affords a fine survey of the valley. The road ascends in windings, passes the ruins of the Baren- burg and enters the *Roffla Gorge , in which the Rhine forms several waterfalls. Near the entrance the Averser Rhein descends in a picturesque fall from the Ferrera Valley and unites with the Hinter-Rhein. Towards the end [2'V 2 M.) of the ravine the Einshorn with its snow-fields comes into view. Here is an ancient bridge over the Rhine; farther on, a rocky gateway (Sasa Plana), 15 yds. in length. The open Alpine landscape of the Rheinwaldthal (Val Rhein) is now disclosed; r. is the village otSuvers [4076 ft.), opposite the traveller the Pizzo Uccello [8361 ft.) and the Eins- horn [9053 ft.); 1. of the Splugen, adjacent to the Uccello, is the Tambchorn [10,086 ft.); W. the Zapporthorn [9198 ft.) etc. 60 Route 5. SPLUGEN. From Coire 8y 4 M. Splugen (4463 ft.), Roman. Speluga (*Post, where the diligence halts for breakfast; *Hosig), capital of the Rhein- waldthal, is a busy place, owing to its position at the junction of the Splugen and Bernardino routes. The latter (p. 62) here pur- sues a straight direction towards the W. The Splugen route turns to the 1., crosses the Rhine and ascends in windings, passing through a gallery 90 yds. in length, the transverse beams of which areal- most touched by the top of the diligence, A retrospect is obtained of the lofty and barren Kalkberg rising above the village of Splugen. A dreary valley is next traversed and the W. slopes ascended by innumerable windings. The road passes a solitary Refuge and soon reaches the summit of the Splugen Pass (6738 ft.) ( Speluga r Colmo del Orso ), 3348 ft. above which rises the Tam— bohorn or Schneehorn (10,086 ft.) (ascent 3—4 hrs„ not unat- tended with danger). The glacier-mountain to the E. is the Surettahorn (9212 ft.). The narrow ridge which is here crossed forms the boundary between Switzerland (Grisons) and Italy (Lombardy). The Italian frontier-stone records the height of the pass in metres. On the summit stands an ancient tower. The pass, which was known as early as the Roman period, was till 1818 traversed by a bridle-path only. The present road was constructed by the Austrian government in 1819 — 21. About 3 / 4 M. beyond the pass the road reaches the Dogana (5861 ft.), a frontier excise-station with a poor inn, at the upper end of a bleak and barren valley enclosed by lofty mountains. The road now descends on the E. slope in numberless zig- zags, Three long galleries (respectively 700 ft., 642 ft., 1530 ft. in length) protect it against avalanches. Beyond the second gallery a view is obtained of Isola and the old road, which was destroyed by an inundation in 1834. The new road avoids the dangerous Lira Gorge between Isola and Campo Dolcino. Beyond Pianazzo, a village at the same elevation as that of Splugen, the Madesimo forms a magnificent ^Waterfall, about 700 ft. in height, which is best viewed from a small platform by the road-side. 15 3 / 8 M. Campo Dolcino (3333 ft.) consists of two groups of houses. The first contains the church, surrounded by ash-trees, and the “Campo Santo”. At the second (Post Inn), , / 2 M. farther to Colico. CHIAVENNA. 5. Route. 61 is the Italian custom-house. Beyond the village an inscription on the rock records that the Emp. Francis constructed this road from “Clavenna ad Rhenum” . The Lira Valley is strewn with fragments of rock, hut the wildness of the scene is some- what modified hy the dark foliage of the chestnut-trees lower down, from which the slender white campanile of the church of Madonna di Gallivaggio picturesquely rises. , At 8. Giacomo there are extensive plantations of chestnuts, extending far up the steep mountain slopes. The vineyards of Chiavenna now com- mence, and the luxuriance of Italian vegetation - unfolds itself to the view. 8 5/g M. Chiavenna (975 ft.) (* Hotel Conradi , adjoining the post-office, carriages in all directions; Chiave d J Oro. The beer of Chiavenna is the best in N. Italy), the Clavenna of the Romans, an ancient town with 3000 inhab., is delightfully situated on the Maira, at the entrance of the Val Bregaglia , through which the road- to the Maloja Pass and the Engadine leads. Opposite the post-office are the considerable ruins of a castle of the de Salts family, frequently besieged in ancient times. Picturesque view from the well-kept garden of the chateau [“II paradiso , fee !/ 2 fr.) , which rises on an isolated rock, festooned with vines. — S. Lorenzo, near the post-office, the principal church, possesses an elegant detached campanile which rises from the former Campo Santo, surrounded by arcades. The octagonal Battisterio contains an ancient font adorned with reliefs. The contiguous Charnel-houses , where the skulls and bones are carefully and symmetrically arranged', may be inspected by the curious. The road to Colico at first traverses vineyards; farther on, the effects of the inundations of the Maira and its tributary the Lira, which joins it below Chiavenna, become apparent. Near 6 M. Riva the road reaches the Lago di Riva or di Mezzola, which, previous to the construction of the road, travellers were ' obliged to cross by boat. This sheet of water originally formed the N. bay of the Lake of Como, but the deposits of the Adda have in the course of ages almost entirely separated the two lakes, which are now connected by a narrow channel only. The road - skirts the E. bank of the lake, in some places supported by embankments and masonry, in others passing through galleries, 62 Route 6. HINTERRHEIN. and then crosses the Adda. Near the junction of the road with the Stelvio route (p. 72) the ruins of the castle of Fuentes , erec- ted in 1603 by the Spaniards when they were masters of Milan destroyed 1796 by the French, are seen on the r. It was form- erly situated on an island and regarded as the key of the Val Tellina. At 9 M. Colico ( Albergo Piazza Garibaldi, on the lake; Isola Bella; both in the Italian style, the road reaches the Lake of Como. Monte Legnone (8039 ft.) rises above the small town. Diligence to Chiavenna at 7 p. m., to Coire at 7 p. m.; to Bormio (via Tirano) at 8. 45 p. m., in 15ty 4 hrs. (to Sondrio 4 V 4 , Tirano 8'/ 4 hrs.) — From Colico to Como and from Como to Milan see R. 20. 6. From Coire to Magadino on the Lago Maggiore (and Milan) over the Bernardino. Diligence (twice daily in summer) from Goire to Magadino in 18 hrs. (coupe 30 fr. 50 c., interieur 26 fr^ 10 c.). Remarks as to seats see p. 47. The Bernardino Route, constructed in 1819—23 at the expense of the governments of the Grisons and Sardinia, ascends to the W. from the village of Spliigen (4463 ft.) in the Rhein- wald-Thal (Val Rhein), on the 1. bank of the Hinter- Rhein , and reaches 6% M. Hinterrhein (4999 ft.), the highest village in the valley, 4 hrs. N.E. of the source of the Hinter-Rhein (8891 ft.), which flows from the Rheinwald or Zapport Glacier. The road then crosses the highest bridge over the Rhine, */ 2 M. from the, village, winds upwards on the steep S. slope of the valley and soon reaches the culminating point of the S. Bernardino Pass (6584 ft). The mountain, which was known to the Romans, derives its appellation from St Bernardino of Siena, who first preached the Gospel in this region, and in honour of whom a chapel was erected on the S. slope. By the small M.) Lago Moesola (beautiful and rare Alpine plants in the vicinity) stands the “ Casa di Rifugio” , an inn. The S. outlet of the lake is the Moesa, which the road follows to its influx into the Ticino, above Bellinzona. Above the handsome u Victor Emanuel bridge the stream forms a fine waterfall. From the foot of the bridge S. BERNARDINO. 6. Route. 63 a view of the Piz Moesola (8993 ft.) is obtained through the arch. A gallery farther on protects the road from avalanches. IOV 2 M - s * Bernardino (5005 ft.) ( Hotel Brocco; Hotel Ra- vizza ; Hotel Motto; pension in all 5 — 7 fr.), the loftiest village in the Val Mesocco (or Mesolcina) > which unites with the Ri- viera (p. 54) near Bellinzona, possesses a mineral spring (Acqua Buona) and attracts a considerable number of visitors. The Moesa forms a waterfall between S. Bernardino and S. Giacomo; the best view, however, is only to be obtained from the footpath, which runs first on the 1., then on the r. ban,k of the stream. The road descends in innumerable zigzags on the 1. bank, com- manding a series of charming views. Admirable distant prospect from the bridge of S. Giacomo (3527 ft.), embracing the valley and the grand ruins of the Castle of Mesocco with its four towers. Then, IV 2 M. farther, the village of 9 M. Mesocco (2432 ft.) or Cremeo ( *Toscani , next to the post-office), charmingly situated. Chestnuts, vines and Indian corn soon indicate the proximity of Italy. Numerous brooklets are precipitated from the rocky slopes by which the valley is enclosed. The descent on the S. side of the pass is much more rapid than that on the N. ; Soazza (1880 ft.), which is soon reached, stands at about the same elevation as Coire. The road is now level. On the opposite side of the Moesa traces of the inundation of 1834 (comp. p. 59) are still visible. Near the second bridge below Soazza the Buffalora forms a beautiful cascade near the road. Another waterfall near Cabbiolo. In the vicinity of Lostallo extensive vineyards are seen. At 9 3 / 4 M. Cama, near the Capuchin monastery, figs and mul- berries are first observed. At Grono rises the strong tower of Florentina. The vines are here trained on trellis-work. Roveredo (Posta; Croce), with the ruined castle of the once powerful Trivulzio family, is the capital of the lower Val Mesocco. 8. Vittore is the last village of the Grisons, Lumino the first in Canton Ticino. Before the Moesa is crossed the road unites with the St. Gotthard route (p. 54). Below the influx of the Moesa into the Ticino stands Arbedo , a village occupying a sad page in Swiss history. On July 30th, 1422, a battle took place here between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which 2000 of the former fell. They were interred beneath several mounds of 64 Route 7. ZIRL. earth near the church of St. Paul, which is termed Chiesa Rossa from its red colour. Hence by 93/s M. Bellinzona to Cadenazzo see p. 54. The road here diverges from that which leads S. over the Monte Cenere to Lugano. It descends in the broad and level valley of the Ticino, skirting the N. base of Monte Cenere (p. 56), to 9 3 / 8 M. Magadino ( Bellevue , opposite the steamboat -pier), which consists of Upper and Lower Magadino , in a marshy situation on the Lago Maggiore at the mouth of the Ticino , the N. harbour of the lake (R. 22). Steamers see p. 173,. From Magadino to Arona see R. 22. From Arona to Milan see p. 179. 7. From Innsbruck to Colico (and Milan) over the Stelvio. 206 M. Diligence from Innsbruck .to- Landeck daily (at 4 a. m.) in 83 / 4 hrs., from Landeck to Mals 4 times Weekly in 81/2 hrs. Omnibus daily from Innsbruck to Landeck and from Landeck to Mals. — Mes- s agerie between Bormio and Sondrio and between Sondrio and Colico daily. No public conveyance traverses the Stelvio (i. e. from Mals 'fo Bormio/. A vetturino demands 10 — 12 fl. per day. The road over the Stelvio, Germ. Stilfser Joch, the loftiest in Europe which is practicable for carriages, 9328 Engl. ft. above the sea-level, was constructed by the Austrian government in 1820—25. On the Tyrolese side it is unfortunately sadly neglected, but the Italian portion is in better repair. In spring the melting of the snow often proves very de- structive to the higher portion of the. road, covering it with fragments of rock, sweeping away the galleries which protect it, or even obliterating it entirely, From the end of June to the beginning of October the passage is unattended with danger, except after a heavy fall of snow, a rare contingency in summer, in which case the journey should be postponed for 24 hrs. The road ascends on the 1. bank of the Inn , passing the Martinswand (3600 ft.), a precipice where the Emp. Maxi- milian I. nearly lost his life in 1493, whilst engaged in chamois- hunting. At the base of the. cliff lies 8 M. Zirl (1956 ft.) (*Lowe). The- Calvarienberg above the village commands a fine view. On the r. rises the ruined castle of Fragenstein. Near 974 M. Telfs (Post) the road crosses the Ifin and passes the considerable (1.) Cistercian monastery of Stams, founded in 1271 by the mother of Conradin, the last of the imperial family of Hohenstaufen. Beyond LANDECK. 7. Route . 65 8 M. Silz (Steinbock), with a handsome modern church, rises the wooded Petersberg on the 1., crowned with the ruined castle of that name. Beyond Haimingen the road crosses the Inn to Magerbach (*Inn by the bridge) and skirts the base of the Tschurgant (7275 ft.; ascended from Imst in 4 hrs., fine view). A remarkable view is obtained here of the masses of debris with which the Ache, descending from the Oetzthal , covers the entire valley near the confluence of the two streams. In *Mayr’s Inn at Brennbuchl Frederick Augustus , King of Saxony, died in 1854 in consequence of a fall from his carriage in the vicinity. A small chapel has been erected in the valley beneath, on the spot where the accident took place. The road now quits the river and ascends slightly to 11V 2 M. Imst ( *Post , R. 70, B. 36 kr.), an important loo- king village at the base of the Laggersberg and the Platteinkogl , whence a road leads N.E. to Nassereit. The road again de- scends and approaches the Inn at the base of the Laggersberg. At this spot the Tyrolese in 1809 hurled trunks of trees and rocks from the mountain on their Bavarian enemies with deadly effect. Mils possesses an elegant modern church. A picturesque retrospect is obtained hence; the barren pyramid of the Tschur- gant (see above) forms the background of the landscape (in the distance the Sonnenspitz adjoins it on the 1.). Beyond Starkenbach the imposing ruins of the Kronburg rise on a lofty eminence on the opposite bank of the Inn. Near Zams (2557 ft.), before the bridge is reached, a field -road diverges r. to a beautiful waterfall (10 min.), which precipitates itself over huge masses of rock, but is not visible from the road. The bridge which here carries the road to the r. bank of the Inn, has fre- quently been the scene of fierce struggles. It was destroyed in 1703 by the Tyrolese, and those of the French who had already crossed thus fell into the power of their enemy. 14 M. Landeck (2486 ft.) (Schwarzer Adler'., Post ; Goldner Adler), a considerable village on both banks of the Inn, is com- manded by the ruins of the ancient stronghold of Landeck on the r. bank of the river.. A road leads hence over the Arlberg to Feldkirch in the valley of the Rhine and to the railway from Rorschach to Coire. Baedeker. Italy I. 5 66 Route 7. HIED. From Innsbruck The road passes the castle on the r. bank of the Inn, which here forces its way through a narrow ravine and forms several rapids. To the r. a waterfall of the Vrgbach. The Pontlatzer Bridge, 6 M. from Landeck, by which the road crosses to the 1. hank, has frequently proved a most disastrous spot to the armies of Bavaria. On the r , on a precipitous rock above Prutz, stand the ruins of the castle of Landegg. Near it, on the height, is the village of Ladis, i hr. from Prutz, with sulphur-baths ; i / 2 hr. higher up is Obladis, a charmingly situated sanitary establishment. Prutz (Rose), where the road returns to the r. bank of the Inn, lies in a swampy plain at the entrance of the Kaunserthal, in which Kaltenbrunn , a place of pious resort, is situated. 974 M. Hied (2700 ft.) (*Post; Adler) is a thriving village. The castle of Siegmundsried is the ^eat of the local authorities The Capuchin monastery on the S. side was erected in the* 17th cent, as a species of religious barrier to the advance of the Reformation from Switzerland in this direction. Farther on is Tosens, where the Inn is again crossed. 9 l /4 m - Pfunds (*Traube) consists of two groups of houses, separated by the river. The Mondin-Ferner , appertaining to the N. Engadine chain, is a conspicuous- glacier to the S.W. ; in the -extreme distance to the E. rise the peaks of the Oetzthal snow-mountains. Above Pfunds the new road again crosses the Inn and gra- dually ascends on the r. bank, hewn at places in the ’ face of the perpendicular rock and occasionally supported by solid masonry. The route is here remarkable tor the picturesque views it affords of the narrow valley of the Inn, as well as for the grand construction of the road itself. The finest point is at *Hoch - Finstermiinz , about 4*/ 2 M. from Pfunds, a small group of houses on the road, one of which is an *Inn. Far below is the old Finstermunz (3039 ft.), with a tower and a bridge over the Inn. These, with the defile through which the river issues from the Engadine and the mountains in the back- ground, form a very striking picture. A picturesque waterfall is next passed. The extremity of the defile is guarded by some small fortifications. to Colico. MALS. 7 . Route. 67 9 i/ 2 M. Nauders (4164 ft.) (*Post; Mondschein), with the old -castle of Naudersberg , is the seat of the local authorities. The road now ascends to the Res chen-S cheid eck , its culminating point (4431 ft.). Near the village of Reschen (4291 ft.) (*Sonne , unpretending), hy the small and sombre lake of that name, a strikingly magnificent *view is disclosed. The entire background is formed by the snow and ice fields of the Or tier chain. The Etsch . Ital. Adige, rises near Reschen, flows through the lake and also through the Mittersee and Heider- see, which the road passes farther on. 9. M. St. Valentin auf der Heide (4137 ft.) (*Post) was for- merly a hospice. The beauty of the view increases as the road approaches the Vintschgau (Val Venosta). The Ortler 'continues to form the imposing background. As the road descends, the tillages of Mals , Glurns and Tartsch, when viewed from the height, almost appear to form a single town. To the r., before Mals is reached, is seen the village of Burgeis with its red spire and the castle of Furstenburg , once a summer-residence of the bishops of Coire, now tenanted by a number of poor families, who were deprived of their all by the inundations of the Etsch in 1855. Farther on, the Benedictine Abbey of Marienberg lies on the mountain to the r. 7 M Mals (3147 ft.) ( *Post ; Hirsch; Gans ) is a market town of Roman origin. Beyond it the ancient tower of the Frdhlichsburg is passed. In the distance to the r., not far from the commencement of the -Stelvio route, on the opposite bank of the Etsch, rises the imposing, half-ruined castle of Lichtenberg. L. of the road, near Schluderns, is the Churburg, a chateau of Count Trapp containing a valuable collection of mediaeval armour (not always accessible). At Spondinig (*Inn) the road crosses the broad, marshy valley of the Etsch and the river itself by a long bridge, which forms the boundary between the Upper and Lower Yintschgau. 9V 4 M. Prad (2992 ft.) (Ross), or Bivio di Prad , is- an insignificant village at the foot of the Stelvio route, which now enters a narrow valley, traversed by the Trafoi-Bach. To the r. on the height lies the village' of Stilfs , Ital. Stelvio , whence this route derives its appellation, although it does not pass through Stelvio itself. The houses cling to the rocks like swallows’ nests. 68 Route 7. STELVIO PASS. From Innsbruck Pedestrians may avoid the dusty and monotonous high road from Mals via Spondinig to Prad by proceeding from Mals across the valley to Glurns, a small town with an ancient church, and thence, skirting the mountain by the castle of Lichtenberg and Agums , to Prad a walk of 21/2 hrs. At Oomagoi (4070 ft.) (Inn; custom-house, passports inspected), where a large barrack is situated , the wild Suldenthal, 9 M. in length, terminated by the great Sulden Glacier, opens on the E. In Oct., 1865, the first ascent of the Ortler was accomplished from St. Gertrud or Sulden in the Suldenthal. 9 M. Trafoi (5200 ft.) (*Post) consists of about half-a-dozen houses. It derives its name (tres fontes) from the *Three Holy Springs, situated low down in the valley at the base of the Ortler. Very interesting walk thither ( 3 / 4 hr.). The vast Mondatsch or Madatsch Glacier , on the W. side of the Ortler, descends several hundred feet towards the valley. The Madatsch- Spitz is a black, rocky peak protruding from the ice. The two Trafoi Glaciers descend from the Ortler still farther into the valley. To the N. in the background is the broad, snowy pyramid of the Weisskugel, the second highest peak of the Oetzthal ice-mountains. 7 M. Franzenshohe (6903 ft.), formerly a post-station, des- troyed by Italian irregular troops in 1848 and subsequently partially restored, now affords shelter for sheep. The road ascends hence in numerous windings on the slopes, which consist of talc-slate, and passes under dilapidated galleries. Vegetation gradually disappears and scanty moss alone is seen clinging to the rocks. The road here is seldom entirely free from snow except in warm seasons. Icicles depend from the roofs of the galleries as late as July. The summit of the Stelvio Pass (9328 Engl, ft.), 8 M. from the Franzenshohe, is the boundary between Germany and Italy. A house, formerly occupied by the workmen engaged in repairing the road, stands at the top. A path past the house, traversing the mica-slate, leads in 20 min. to a rocky peak which commands an almost uninterrupted *panorama. The view of the Ortler (12,020 ft.), the loftiest mountain in Germany, is very striking. Its snowy dome appears quite near and is surrounded by nu- merous small snow and ice-peaks: S.E. the prominent Konigswand (or Monte Zebrii, 11,815 ft.), farther S.E. the ZufallspUz; nearer, the broad, icy mass of the Monte Cristallo and the gorges of the Stelvio road; S. in to Colico. S. MARIA. 7. Route. 69 the distance the three snow- clad peaks of the Como de% Tre Signori, . the Engadine Mts.; N.E. the snowy WeissJcugel and the Oetzthal Mts. ihe barren red Monte Pressura in the foreground (the summit of which com- mands a still more extensive prospect and may be attained in 1 hr. more) intercepts the views of the Miinsterthal. L., in the immediate vicinity of the road, rise the huge icy slopes of Monte Cristallo. For a short distance the road affords views of the Miinsterthal (in the Grisons, see below). 972 M. s - Maria (*Inn), or the Cantoniera al Giogo diS. Maria, the Italian custom-house, lies in a bleak mountain - basin , in which thistles and scanty herbage alone flourish, surrounded by barren peaks , and about 900 ft. below the summit of the pass (V 2 hr. walk). By carriage hence to Bormio (p. 70) in less than 2 hrs. (in the reverse direction a good walker will accomplish the journey more expeditiously than a carriage). A somewhat steep bridle-path, formerly the sole means of commu- nication between the Vintschgau and Val Tellina (valleys of the- Adige and Adda), diverges from the Stelvio road to the r. near the Cantoniera S. Maria, crosses the Wormser Joch (7900 ft), or TJmbrail ass , an descends (in 3 hrs., ascent 4l/ 2 hrs.) through the Muranza Valley to the Swiss village of S. Maria in the Miinsterthal (4358 ft.); thence by Taufers in 4 hrs. to Mats (p. 67) in the valley of the Adige (or Etsch), a very interesting walk. The road next reaches the Cantoniera al Piano del Brauglio in a green valley, with the u Abita%ione del R • Cappellano” and a chapel; then the Casino dei Rotteri di Spondalonga, a house occupied by road-menders. The road descends by innumerable windings (“giravolte v ), which the pedestrian can generally avoid, skirts the rocky moun- tain slope and passes a number of waterfalls. A series of galleries, partially constructed of wood and par- tially hewn in the solid rock, protect the road against avalanches and waterfalls and carry it through the rocky defile termed “II Diroccamento” . The Cantoniera Spondalonga (6480 ft.) was de- stroyed by the Garibaldians in 1859 and has since been a ruin. Near it two fine waterfalls of the Brauglio, which descends from a rocky gorge above. Then the Cantoniera di Piatta Martina , a refuge for travellers. A number of waterfalls are next passed. Farther on, the Brauglio is precipitated from a rock on the r., a waterfall com- monly termed the Source of the Adda. A magnificent view is 70 Route 7. BORMIO. From Innsbruck now soon disclosed, comprising the valley from Bormio to Ceppina S.W the Monte Colombano (9313 ft.), W. the Val Pedenos, S.E. the snow-clad Gavia (11,028- ft.) and the icy pyramid of he Ple Tresero (11,138 ft.). To the , lies the old bath-estah lisiiment on the verge of a profound and dismal gorge. Beyond the Galleria del Bagni, the last tunnel, a fine view is obtained near the bridge. To the r. of the road, perched on e verge of the rocks, the Bagni Vecchi, or Old Baths, now come into view. Par below flows the Adda. The *New Baths, or Bagni Nuovi ( 4417 ft.) (R. 2, B. 1, A. y, ft.), situated on a terrace commanding a fine survey of the valley of Bormio and the surrounding mountains, were destroyed by the Garibaldians m 1859, but subsequently re-erected in a superior style They -are much frequented in July and August, but are closed about ° ® nd ?!, * eptember ' The mineial (containing salt and sulphur, 102° Fahr.) is conducted hither by pipes from the springs at the old hath, 1 M. higher up. The windings of the road terminate at H / 2 M. Bormio (3765 ft.) (Posta), which affords less agreeable quarters than the new, or even the old bath-establishment. Not- withstanding its seven towers the village is a poor and insigni- ficant place. The pilgrimage - church of S. Cristoforo contains several old paintings. ., 3 hrS ‘ fr0m Bormi o, on the Frodolfo in the Val Furva , is situated St Caterina (5700 ft.), a comfortable bath-establishment, gene- rally crowded m summer. The water, which is strongly impregnated 8X1(1 gaS ’ iS larg6ly ex P° rted -~ The *Monte Confinale (10,b79 ) is frequently ascended from St. Caterina (in 31/ 2 hrs., not fati- guing). It affords an admirable survey of the Ortler-chain ; W. the Bernina- group, S.W. the Mte. della Disgrazia, S. the Adamello etc. Ponte m the Engadine may be reached hence to the W. by Pedenos Trepalle and Livigno, a very interesting walk for experienced mountaineers’ accompanied by a good guide. The road now intersects the valley in a straight direction, crossing the turbid Frodolfo, which unites with the Adda below the bridge, and then turns to the S. This broad and green portion of the valley (Piano), extending as far as the village of Ceppina and enclosed by lofty mountains, presents a somewhat barren aspect. Below Ceppina is the hamlet of S. Antonio with brickworks; then Morignone on a green plateau, the church of which stands on the hill above. to Colico. TIRANO. 7. Route. 71 The defile of La Sena , 1 M. in length, here separates the “Paese Freddo” , or district of Bormio, from the Val Tellma, whic i till 1797 belonged to the Orisons, then to Austria and has since 1859 been Italian. The broad valley is watered by the Adda, the inundations of which often cause considerable damage, lhe vineyards on the slopes yield excellent red wine. The climate is considered unhealthy, and cretinism is not unfrequent. The women of the upper part of the valley wear sandals and red gaiters — The Ponte del Dtavolo was destroyed by the Austrians in 1859 Near the issue of the defile are the rnins of a house; farther on, to the r„ remnants of the fortifications which once guarded the pass. The valley now expands, and the vegetation of the south gradually develops itself. 12 M Bolladore (*Posta). On the mountain slope to the V. rises the picturesque church of the village. Then Grosotto (Albergo Pini), a village of some importance. _ To the N W rises the precipitous Piz Masuccio fob 1 1 tt.J, a landslip from which in 1807 formed a barrier across the narrow channel of the Adda and converted the populous and fertile va ey, as far as Tom into a vast lake. At Lover-a, 3 M. from Tirano, the depth of the water (18 ft.), with an inscription recording the disaster, may be seen on one of the houses. Traces of subse- quent inundations (1855 and 1862) are still partially visible. The road now descends from the district of Semio, passing vine-clad hills, to H.l/ 2 M. Tirano ( Due Torri, adjacent to the post-ottice, tolerable), a small town containing the old residences of the Vis- conti, Pallavicini and Salis families. Here, too, inundations of the Adda have frequently proved very destructive. About 3 / 4 M. farther, on the r. bank of the Adda, lies Ma- donna di Tirano ( *Molinari , near the church). The pilgrimage- church contains some good wood carving near the organ. (The road which here diverges to the r. leads to the Poschiavo and over the Bernina to the Upper Engadine ; see Baedeker's Switzer- land. The « Coniine Svizzera” is 3 / 4 M. N.W. of Madonna di Tirano.) The road next crosses the Poschiavino, a stream descending from the Bernina glaciers. Tresenda is the point where the new road over the Monte Aprica diverges (R. 29). About halfway up the N. slope of the valley rises the ancient watch-tower of 72 Route 7. SONDRIO. Teglio, whence the valley (Val Teglino) derives its name. On the heights to the r. near Sondrio lie the churches of Pendolasco and Montagna. 16 M Sondrio (1070 ft.) (*Postu, comfortable; Maddalena), capital of the Yal Tellina, is situated on the Malero , an im- petuous mountain -torrent which has frequently endangered the town, but is now conducted through a broad and deep artificial channel. The former Nunnery, an extensive edifiee outside the town, has been converted into a prison. The residence of the former bailiffs is now a barrack. On a rocky eminence farther on, to the W., rises -the church of Sassella, erected on galleries. Tines, mulberries, laurels and pomegranates flourish luxuriantly in the valley, whilst in the background the snowy peaks of the Monte della Disgrazia(llA08ft\ one of the Bernina group, tower above the landscape. 16V 4 M. Morbegno (*Posta) is noted for its silk-culture. The lower part of the Val Tellina is rendered marshy and unhealthy by the frequent overflowing of the Adda. In the plain of the Adda, near the union of this road with that from the Spliigen, is the ruined castle of Puentes (p. 62). At 9 / 4 M. Cohco (p. 62) the Lake of Como is reached (R 20) Steamers on the lake and Railway from Como (Camerlata) to Milan see R. 20. 8. From Innsbruck to Verona by the Brenner. Rail way from Inmiruck to Bozen in 5y 2 -61/ 2 hrs., fares 6 a. 12, 4 fl. 59, 3 fl. 6 kr. , from Bozen to Verona in 51/ 2 — 61/ 4 hrs., fares 8 fl. 82, 6 fl 62 4 fl. 41 kr. The Brenner, the lowest pass over the principal chain of the Alps, is traversed by the oldest of the Alpine routes, employed as early as the Koman period and rendered practicable for carriages in 1772. The railwav t°h P e e k e nd 0n T !f 7 ’ iS ° ne ° f the grandest modern structures of the kind, and affords the most direct communication between Germany t f/ JoA 3 SCe m? S f ° r 21 With an incline of 1 : 4 0 *0 the culminating point (4325 ft,). The descent to Brixen (1807 ft.), a distance of 30 M , is less rapid. The scenery of the Brenner Railway is inferior to that of the Semmering, its tunnels and viaducts are less imposing. The expense of tne undertaking has also been considerably less. Soon after leaving Innsbruck the train passes the Abbey of WiUau (r.) and penetrates the hill of lsel by means of a tunnel 00 yds. in length. It then ascends on the r. bank of the Sill, by a passage hewn in the rocks; far below roars the impetuous STEINACH. 8. Route. 73 river. Near stat. Putsch the Rutzbach, which descends from the picturesque Stubaythal to the Sill, is precipitated from a narrow gorge on the r. Thus far there are five tunnels. The Stubaythal, which here opens on the W., is closed by huge gla- ciers. These are ramifications of the Oetzthal Mts., which can only be reached hence by glacier-passes. See Bcedelcer's S. -Germany and Austria. The valley contracts and the scenery becomes wilder. Four more tunnels are passed through, the longest of which is 920 yds. The Sill is crossed twice. Stat. Matrey (3317 ft.) (Stern; Krone ; Weisse'Rose), with the chateau of Trautson , the property of Prince Auersperg, is charm- ingly situated. A footpath leads hence by the former pilgrimage- church of Waldrast (*view) to Mieders in the Stubaythal. Stat. Steinach (Post; Steinbock) has .been entirely re-erected since a conflagration in 1853. The church possesses three good altar-pieces by Knoller, a native of this place, who died (1804) as director of the School of Art of Milan. Steinach lies at the mouth of the Gschnitz- Thai , at the base of the HaUchtspitze (10,361 ft.). From the village of Gschnitz (3 hrs.) a. difficult route leads across the Pinnes . Jodi to Fulpmes in the Stubaythal in 6 hrs. The line passes the village of Staffiach and ascends far above the level of the Sill. Three tunnels, then stat. Gries. Beyond it, to the S., on the 1. side of the extremity of the Oberberg-Thal , rises the ruined Castle of Lueg , formerly a robbers stronghold. The train ascends in long curves, high above the valley, passes the small green Brennersee (well stocked with trout) and reaches Stat. Brenner (4325 ft.), with the former Post-house, the watershed between the Black Sea and the Adriatic. Yiew ob- structed by wood. The Sill , which rises in the vicinity , falls into the Inn; the Eisack, on the farther side of the pass, de- scends to the Adige. The line now follows the course of the Eisack and descends gradually (2 tunn.) to stat. Schelleberg. After another long tunnel the scenery becomes more attractive. Stat. Gossensass . To the r. near Gossensass is the entrance of the Pflersch-Thal , with the villages of Anichen and Pjtersch. Several glacier-passes lead thence, over the lofty mountain- chain which culminates in the Tribulaun (9200 ft.), to the Oberberg and Gschnitz valleys. The train, which runs high above the Eisack, passes at places through wild rocky scenery and reaches Stat. Sterzing (3123 ft.) (*Post; Krone; Adler), a prosperous place, deriving much of its wealth from the mines formerly 74 Route 8. MITTEWALD. From Innsbruck worked here. It is situated in the broad Sterzinger Moos, or Upper Wippthal. The old buildings and arcades of the small town are very picturesque. Minerals may be purchased of the apothecary. Fine view from the Capuchin Monastery: N.W. are the glaciers and snow -mountains of the Stubaythal, S.W. the Jaufen. A bridle-path leads hence over the Penser-Joch to Bozen. From Sterzing to Franz ensfeste the valley of the Eisack is wild and romantic, the mountains lofty and extremely preci- pitous. High above are the castles of Sprechenstein on the 1. and Reifenstein on the r. Stat. Freienfeld. L. rise the ruins of the castle of Welfen- stein, where several Roman remains have been found. Stat. Grasstein. The railway now enters a narrow defile in which the *post-inn of Mittewald is situated. Over the door of the inn two cannon balls are immured, a memento of the wars of 1797 and 1809. This defile was the scene of fearful struggles in 1809. Marshal Lefebvre had conducted a considerable body of French, Bavarian and Saxon troops over the Brenner to this pass, when they en- countered the intrepid Capuchin Haspinger with his Tyrolese reserve (“Landsturm”), who repulsed the advanced guard, con- sisting of Bavarians and Saxons. Speckbacher then descended with his men from the Punleiter Steg , and Hofer from the Jaufen, and the discomfiture of the French was complete. Lefebvre himself hastened back to Innsbruck with tidings of the defeat. The lower extremity of the defile (extensive view towards Brixen), termed the Brixener Klause, near Unterau (2282 ft.), was strongly fortified in 1833 — 38. These works (Franzens- feste), which are very conspicuous when viewed from the S., command the Brenner route to Italy, whilst the route to Ca- rinthia, which here diverges E. through the Pusterthal, will be guarded by a new fortress, now about to be constructed. The station is at a considerable distance from the fortress. Pedestrians are recommended to visit the Pusterthal as far as Bruneck and to proceed thence through the Gader and Groden Valleys to Bozen. The entrance to the Pusterthal is by the old Ladritscher Briicke which crosses the Eisack (150 ft. above the stream) near the Franzensfeste. to Verona. BRIXEN. 8. Route. 75 The group of houses with the new church, to the 1. in the valley below, is the monastery of Neustift , founded in 1142. To the r. is the Vahrner Bad . The Schalderer Bad is situated m the Schalderer Thai, 6 M. to the W. The vegetation now assumes a more southern character. Vineyards and plantations of chest- nuts become more frequent. Stat. Brixen (1807 ft.), Ital. Bressanone (* Elephant, adjoining the post-office; *Sonne, unpretending; Goldenes Kreuz), for nine centuries the capital of a spiritual principality, which was sup- pressed in 1803, and still an episcopal see, continues to exhibit traces of its ecclesiastical character. It contains a number ot churches and altar-pieces, most of them by Tyrolese masters. The Cathedral , completed in 1754, contains a good picture by Schopf (over the first altar on the r.). To the r. of the por- tal is the entrance to the * Cloisters , containing old mural paint- ings and numerous tombstones. At the S.E. extremity of the town is; the Episcopal Palace with an extensive garden. Beyond Brixen, near Sams on the 1. bank of the Eisack, Tises the castle of Pallaus. Stat Klausen (Gans; Rossel), consisting of a single narrow street, is situated in a defile, as its name imports, which has always been considered an important military point. The Bene- dictine monastery of Sehen , crowning the cliffs on the r. and commanding a most striking view, was once a Rhsetian fortress, then the Roman castle of Sabiona, afterwards an episcopal resi- dence till the 10th cent, and finally a baronial castle. A pain- ted crucifix on the tower projecting on the N. was placed there in memory of a nun who, when pursued by the French in 1809, precipitated herself from the tower and was dashed to pieces. The Loretto Chapel , adjoining the Capuchin Monastery (where visitors apply for admission), contains the most valuable col- lection of ecclesiastical treasures in the Tyrol. The Capuchin Joachim Haspinger, one of the bravest leaders of the insurrection of 1809, belonged to this monastery. Below Klausen the valley contracts. The line skirts the pre- cipitous porphyry cliffs. Above, on the heights, extends a broad and fertile tract, sprinkled with numerous villages, of which the traveller in the gorge perceives no trace. 76 Route 8. BOZEN. From Innsbruck Stat. Waidbruck. Near Kollmann (Kreuz) the Grodenerbach descends from a rocky ravine to the Eisack. Above it rises the Trostburg with its numerous towers and pinnacles, the property Of Count Wolkenstein. This is the most striking point in this picturesque valley of the Eisack. Stat. Atzwang (1388 ft.) ( *Post ). Four short tunnels, then stat. Blumau. The valley again contracts. Beyond the defile an extensive plantation of chestnuts on the slope of the mountain is passed. The line now enters the wide basin of Bozen, a district of the. most luxuriant fertility, resembling a vast vine- yard. Bozen is visible in the distance, with its fine Gothic tower. Bozen (872 ft.), Ital. Bolzano ( *Kaiserkrone ; Mondschein ;; Schwarzer Adler ; Goldn. Hirsch ; Sonne ; Rail. Restaurant), with 10,000 inhab., lying at the junction of roads from Germany, Italy and Switzerland, is the most important commercial town in the Tyrol. It is delightfully situated at the confluence of the Eisack and the Talfer, which descends from the Sarnthal on the N. The E. background is formed by the strikingly picturesque do- r lomitie mountains of the Fassathal. Most of the houses have openings in the roofs, covered by projecting eaves, to admit light and air. Many of the streets are traversed by channels of fresh water, which in summer contribute in some degree to mitigate the oppressive heat. The Gothic * Parish Church is of the 14th and 15th cent- The W. Portal, with two lions of red marble, is an imitation of the Lombard style. Beautiful tower of perforated work, completed in 1519. Behind the high altar is the vault of Archduke Rainer (d. 1858), with his monument. Altar-piece by Lazzarini, a pupil of Titian. On the E. side a gateway, bearing the inscription “ Resurrecturis” ? leads to the * Cemetery , which is surrounded by arcades. In the S.W. corner is the vault of the Giovanelli family, by Schnorr. A chapel adjoining the sacristy in the Franciscan Monastery contains a finely carved old German altar. The *Calvarienberg (25 min. walk; descent from the portal of the parish church to the bridge over the Eisack, across the latter and the railway embankment , then a moderate ascent) commands a fine view of the town and environs. The oratories on the path to the summit contain curious, almost grotesque, to Verona. TRENT. 8. Route. 77 life-size groups. — Those interested in horticulture should visit the gardens of the Archduke Henry, Count Sarntheim, M. de Mayrl and M. Moser. Gries (Badl), a village to the W. of Bozen , is frequented as a winter residence by consumptive persons. Pomegranates and cactuses grow wild on the mountain-slopes here. The church con- tains pictures by Knoller. Beyond Bozen the train crosses the Eisack, which lower down falls into the Etsch (or Adige'). The latter becomes navigable at stat. Bramoll (Ital. Bronzollo). Beyond stat. Auer (Itai. Ora), where the new and imposing road through the Fleimserthal commences, the train crosses the river. Next stat. Neumarkt, Ital. Egna (Krone; Engel), with a population in which the German element still preponderates, lies on the 1. bank of Adige and consists of a single street only. To the r. on the slope of the mountain lie the villages of Tramin , Kurtatsch and Margreid. Stat. Saturn is the last place where German is spoken. The village itself lies on the 1. bank of the river, with a dilapidated castle on an apparently in accessible rocky pinnacle which once commanded the Adige. The bottom of the valley is here flat and marshy. To the r. is the Rocchetta Pass which leads to the Val di Non. Mezzo Tedesco and Mezzo Lombards (or Deutsch and Walsch- Metz), situated on different sides of the pass separated by the Noce, are both Italian. S. Michele Lombardo, or Walsch-Michael (Adler), with a hand- some old Augustine monastery, founded 1143, but now suppressed, is the station for the Yal di Non. The line now crosses to the 1. bank of the Adige. A short distance farther is the Nave S. Rocco, a very ancient ferry across the Adige, communicating with the road from the Yal di Non. Next stat. Lavis on the Avisio, which here descends from the Val Cembra. This impetuous torrent with its different ramific- ations is crossed before its junction with the Adige by a bridge 1000 yds. in length. Trento (686 ft.), or Trent , Lat. Tridentum (Europa; *Corona; ■Chiavi d’Oro; Cafe, adjoining the Europa, containing portraits of princes who once lodged here, e. g. Count Artois, subsequently 78 Route 8 . TRENT. From Innsbruck Charles X. of France, Eugene Beauharnais, viceroy of Italy, etc.)* with 14,000 inhab., formerly the wealthiest and most important town in the Tyrol, founded according to tradition by the Etrus^- cans and mentioned by Strabo, Pliny and Ptolemy, possesses- numerous towers, palaces of marble, dilapidated castles and broad streets, and is surrounded by imposing grqups of rocks. Above the town rises the considerable castle of Buon Consiglio, once an archiepiscopal residence, now a barrack. The * Cathedral , founded 1048, commenced in its present form in 1212 and completed in the 15th cent., is a structure in the round-arch style, surmounted by two domes. At the N. portal,, as at Bozen, is a pair of lions (p. 76). The flights of steps in the aisles are peculiar. In the S. transept are several old monu- ments, half-faded frescoes, and by the wall the porphyry tomb- stone of the Venetian general Sanseverino, whom the inhabitants of Trent defeated and killed at Calliano (see below) in 1487. In the Piazza of the cathedral, which is embellished with a fountain,, are also situated the courts of judicature and the guard-house. S. Maria Maggiore (with an admirable organ), where the celebrated Council of Trent held its sessions in 1545— 63, con- tains a picture on the N. wall of the choir (covered by a cur- tain) with portraits of the members of the council: 7 cardinals, 3 patriarchs, 33 archbishops and 235 bishops. Adjacent to the S. side of the choir is a column dedicated to the Virgin, erected in 1855 on the 300th anniversary of the festival celebrated in commemoration of the Council. The rocky eminence of Verruca., or Dos Trento , situated on the r. bank of the Adige, was fortified in 1857 and is not accessible to strangers without special permission. The best point of view in the environs is the terrace of the Capuchin- Church , on the opposite side of the valley. A beautiful route leads from Trent to Venice through the' Val Sugana (p. 80)*, another, also very attractive, through the Val Sarca to the Lago di Oar da (p. 83). The line continues to traverse the broad and fertile valley of the Adige, the former marshes of which have been almost entirely drained. To the S.W. of Trent, on the r. bank of the Adige, is the village of Sardagna , with a considerable waterfall. Next stat. Matarello. On a height near stat. Calliano rises the to Verona. ROVEREDO. 8. Route. 79 extensive castle of Beseno , property of Count Trapp. Rocky debris in the vicinity indicate the scene of a former landslip. Roveredo (Cavaletto; Corona), a town with 8000 inhab., is noted for its thriving silk-culture (upwards of 120,000 lbs. are annually produced in the district between Trent and Verona). At the Filande , 60 in number, the silk is wound from the co- coons; the Filatorie are the spinning- establishments. Southern fruits and excellent red wine are als-o produced in the neigh- bourhood. The most remarkable building is the' old Castello in the Piazza del Podestk. The lower part of the valley of the Adige, as far as the Italian frontier, is termed Val Lagarina. On the r. bank lies Isera, with vineyards, numerous villas and a waterfall. On the 1. bank, E. of the railway, near Lizzana , is a castle, which about the year 1302 was tenanted by Dante who had been banished from Florence as an adherent of the Ghibellines. The line follows the 1. bank of the Adige. Next stat .Mori; the village itself lies in a ravine on the opposite bank, on the road leading to Riva (p. 82), and is noted for its excellent asparagus. Omnibus from stat. Mori to Riva on the Lago di Garda in 2 hrs. (fare 80—90 kr.), twice daily in connection with the trains from Bozen. Near S. Marco on tbe 1. bank are the traces (Slavini) of a vast landslip, which is said to have overwhelmed a town here in 833, and is described by Dante (Inferno XII., 4 — 9). At Serravalle, the ancient fort which guarded the defile, the valley contracts. Stat. Ala (Posta), a place of some importance, with 3800 inh., boasts of once celebrated velvet-manufactories. Stat. Avio is the last in the Austrian dominions. The village, with a well preserved castle of- Count Castelbarco, lies on the r. bank. Peri is the first Italian station. The ridge of Monte Baldo (6762 ft., p. 82), on the W., separates the valley of the Adige from the Lago di Garda. Stat. Ceraino. The line now enters the celebrated Chiusa di Verona, a rocky defile penetrating the limestone mountains and affording space for the river, road and railway only. This important military point was defended against the Milanese in 1155 by the German army commanded by Otto of Wittelsbach, in the reign of Frederick Barbarossa. (On an 80 Route 8. VAL SUGANA. eminence on the r. bank is situated Rivoli, stormed several times by the French in 1796 and 1797 under Massena, who derived his ducal title from this village.) Next stat. Domegliarh. On the opposite bank of the Adige a range of hills extends into the plain as far as Custozza , far below Verona, whence the Piedmontese were driven by the Austrians in 1848. On the same ground the battle of June 24th, 1866, took place, in which the Italians were defeated by the Austrians under Archduke Albert and compelled to retreat across the Mincio. At some distance to the W., on the farther side of the Mincio, which emerges from the Lago di Garda, Solferino is situated, where the memorable battle of June 24th, 1859, was fought. Stat. Pescantina, then Parona. The line crosses the Adige, and at S. Lucia (p. 192) reaches the Verona and Milan line. A short distance farther is the railway-station (outside the Porta Nuova) on the S. side of Verona see R. 31. 1. From Trent to Venice by the Val Sugana, 115 M. Dili- gence twice weekly to Treviso, thence to Venice by railway in 1 hr. Arrival at Venice see p. 227. This direct route (although not the most expeditious) to Venice traverses the beautiful and romantic Venetian Mountains. Near 9 M. Pergine , an extensive prospect is enjoyed ; beyond it, on a com- manding, rocky height, rises the handsome castle of that name. To the r. lies the picturesque lake of Caldonazzo , which is drained by the Brenta (on the mountains S.W. lies Calceranica, whence a fine view is obtained). Then the smaller lake of Levico , in which Monte Scanupia (6802 ft.) is re- flected. The Val Sugana commences here. The principal town in the valley is I8V2 M. Borgo (*Aquila), where silk is extensively produced. Below the town rises the beautiful chateau of Ivano. Near Grigno the valley of Tesino opens on the N., watered by the Grigno. Its inhabitants frequently emigrate as dealers in engravings. The proprietors of several of the best shops of this description in Europe are natives of this valley. Near 16 M. Primolano , the road traverses a magnificent, rocky ravine and crosses the Venetian frontier. I 11 a rocky cavity beyond the village are situated the ruins of the castle of Covelo, a mediaeval stronghold, to which access could only be obtained by means of a windlass. Valstagna is in- habited chiefly by straw-hat makers. (About 12 M. S.W. is situated Asiago, with 5000 inhab., capital of the Sette Comuni , or seven parishes where an unintelligible German patois is spoken in the midst of an Italian population. Till 1797 they formed an independent republic under the protection of Venice. The dialect is, however, rapidly giving way to Italian.) BASSANO. 8. Route. 81 From the height of Rubio, about 10 M. from Primolano, the road com- mands a charming and picturesque view of the river districts of the Astico and the Piave and of the Vicentine and Euganean Mts. as far as Venice. The ravine of the Brenta now expands , a broad plain with extensive olive-plantations comes into view, and the road reaches 18 M. Bassano (£. Antonio , near the chief piazza; Luna, in the sub- urbs), a picturesquely situated town (15,000 inhab), surrounded by lofty and venerable ivy-clad walls. One of the six gates was erected by Palladio. In the centre of the town rises the once' fortified tower of the tyrant Ezzelino, which commands a fine view and contains a library and armoury. Bassano possesses no fewer than 35 churches, the chief of which is the Cathedral , containing some fine pictures, many of them by Giacomo da Ponte, surnamed Bassano, this town having been his birthplace. His best work, a Nativity, is in the Oratorio S. Giuseppe. The Villa Rezzonica, 11/2 M, from the town, contains several valuable works of art, e. g. Ca- nova’s Death of Socrates ; delightful views hence, extending to the Euganean hills and the mountains of the Sette Comuni (application for admission must be made the day previous to the intended visit). On Sept. 8 th, 1796, Napoleon defeated the Austrians under Wurmser near Bassano, four days after the battle of Roveredo. A number of skirmishes also took place here between the French and Austrians in 1801, 1805 and 1813. In 1809 Napoleon constituted the district of Bassano a Duchy, with which he invested Maret, his secretary of state. (Possagno, Canova’s birthplace, is beautifully situated at the base of the mountains, 12 M. N.E. of Bassano. The road thither is rugged and hilly. The church, in the form of a circular temple, resembling the Pantheon at Rome, was designed by Canova and contains his tomb. The altar-piece also was painted by him. The bridge which here spans the river by a single arch, 110 ft. in width, was erected in accordance with a bequest by Canova to his native town. The Palazzo , as his house is termed,, contains models and casts of his works.) 14 M. Castelfranco , an ancient town surrounded by walls and lowers, was the birthplace of the painter Giorgione. The principal church con- tains a *Madonna by him; in the Sacristy a fresco by Paolo Veronese, representing Justice. 16 M. Treviso, and railway thence to Venise, see R. 37. 2. From Trent to Verona by Riva and the Lago di Garda. To Riva 25 M., one -horse- carr. 8 , two -horse 14 fl. S teamer from Riva to Peschiera in 3^2 hrs-, see P- 83. Railway from Peschiera to Verona in . 8/4 hr.; fares 3 fr. 25 c., 2 fr. 50 -C., 1 fr. 65 c. This route is far preferable to the direct railway-route, on account of the charming . scenery of the Lago di Garda. The traveller from Bozen, whose time is limited, may shorten the route by proceeding by railway as far as stat. Mori (10 M. from Riva), instead of quitting the train at Trent. This approach to the lake is also very attractive. — Omnibus daily between Mori and Riva (coupe 1 fl.) ; office in Riva at the Cafe Andreis under the arcades. The route through the Val Sarca, especially the portion between Trent and the bridge over the Sarca, presents a succession of charming -and Baedeker. Italy I. ^ 82 Route 8. RIVA. oceasionally strikingly imposing landscapes. At Trent the road crosses - the Adige, traverses the suburb Pid di Castello and ascends. Fine retro- spect from the height (1 V2 M )- A wild and rocky defile (Buco di Vela) is now entered, beyond which the road emerges suddenly on a smiling and fertile district. Farther on (il/ 2 . M.) the view of Terlago and its lake at the base of Monte Gazm (6000 ft.) is beautiful and imposing. II/2 M. Vigolo. 3 M. Vezzano (Corona), the principal place between Trent and Arco. At ( 11/2 M.) Padernione the road turns to the r. and passes the Lake of Toblino and the picturesque castle of that name. Below Le Sarche the Sarca emerges from a gorge, and the road to Giudicaria diverges (see below) 3 M. Bridge over the Sarca, scene of a skirmish between Italians and Austrians in 1848. II/2 M. Pietra Murata. Near (41/2 M.) Prd is the ruined Castello di Drena on an eminence to the 1. The road now enters a more fertile district. 3 M. Arco, with church of somewhat oriental aspect. The vegetation now becomes most luxuriant (olives, pomegranates, figs, grapes). The peaches and other fruit of Arco are in high repute. N., on a precipitous height, rises the castle of Arco, with well-kept gardens. The road which turns to the r. from the S. Gate of Arco leads to (3 3 /4 M.) Riva (*Sole d'Oro , R. 2, L. 1, D. 3, A. 1 fr. ; *Giardino; Caffe Andreis y near the quay; Baths in the lake, W. of the town), the N. harbour of the Lago di Garda, charmingly situated and enclosed on the E. and W. by precipitous mountains. The Church of the Minorites , date 16th cent., richly decorated with stucco and gilding, is a pleasing example of its style. Several modern pictures and frescoes in the Paris h Church. LaRocca y a watch-tower- on the lake, and the old Castello, high on the mountain to the W., greatly enhance the beauty of the place, which is recom- mended for a prolonged stay. The heat of summer is tempered by the proximity of the lake. Private apartments easily procured. Excursions: Fall of the Ponal (2 hrs.). The high road is followed to the entrance of the Ledro Valley. Here by a path 1., across a bridge, an ascent, and finally a descent to the cascade. (Boat thither 2 fi.). The new *Road from Riva to Brescia through the Ledro Valley is very inter- esting and commands magnificent views. Monte Brione, with a fort, between Riva and Torlole , 1/2 hr. > commands a fine view. — Pleasant excursions N.E. to the Castello of Arco; N. to the falls of the Varrone and castle of Tenno, -ascending to the Villa Fiorio , returning by Pranzo\ Monte Baldo (6860 ft ), a ridge 45 M. long, separating the lake from the Adige, is best ascended from Nago, 3 M. E. of Riva. The highest point on the N. is the Altissimo di Nago (6324 ft.), reached in 41/2 hrs. with guide; extensive panorama, embracing a large portion of N. Italy and the snowy Ortler. Giudicaria. Instead of the high road from the castle of Toblino to Riva, the following mountain route (6V2 hrs.) is recommended. At Le Sarchd the road to the r. is followed, hewn in the rocks in many places and leading through a grand gorge. It ascends by the baths of Cumano to Stenico , where the waterfall should he inspected. Stenico was formerly capital of the district of Giudicaria , which was subject to episcopal juris- diction and peculiar laws of its own. The road now leads S. and des- LAKE OF GARDA. 8. Route. 83 cends by Campo , Fiave , Bglino and Tenno to Riva. — The following walk (8 hrs.) is also attractive : by the road ascending the Ledro Valley (fall of the Ponal see above) to (6 M.) Molina , past the Lago di Ledro through (II/2M.) Mezzo Lago, (1 1/2 M-) Pie-ve, ( 3/ 4 M.) Bezzecca ,. ( 3/ 4 M.) Enguiso , ( 3/ 4 M.) Leuzumo , and across the Monto Tratta to (3 hrs.) Campi and back (3 M.) to Riva. Riva to Roveredo (p. 79) 12 M., omnibus once daily in 3 hrs. by Torbole , a harbour on the N.E. bank, and Nago, which affords a magnifi- cent retrospect. The road ascends a wild and rocky height, passes the picturesque lake of Loppio and reaches Mori (p. 79). At Favorita the Adige is crossed; on the r. is the railway stat. The Lake of Garda, or Lago di Garda (213 ft.), the Rom. Lacus Be- nacus , is 35 M. in length and 7 M. broad at the widest part. A small portion of the lake near Riva belongs to the Tyrol , but farther S. both banks are Italian (the W. since 1859', the E. since 1866). The lake is rarely perfectly calm ; Virgil’s description (Geor. II. 160), “ Fluctibus et fremitu adsurgens Benace marino”, is frequently verified. The water is of an azure blue. The carpione, or salmon trout, sometimes 25 lbs. in weight are excellent, also trutte of 1 — D/2 16., lag one and sar dene. — Steamboat along the E. Bank (between Riva and Peschiera) twice weekly in 3 3 / 4 hrs., fares 1 fl. 75, 1 fl. 10 kr., Austr. currency. Stations Malcesine , Castelletto , Torri , Bardolino and Lazise . — Along the W. Bank (between Riva and Desenzano) also twice weekly, in 41/2 hrs., fares 4 fr. 35, 2 fr. 40 c. ; Stations JJmone,, Gargnano, Sa/o. The upper part of the lake is enclosed by lofty and precipitous moun- tains. The W. bank is traversed by the new road already mentioned. Towards the S. the banks gradually become flatter. The Fall of the Ponal (see above) is visible from the steamer about 10 min. after its departure from Riva. First stat. on the E. bank Malcesine , a commodious harbour, with an ancient castle of Charlemagne, for sketching which Goethe once narrowly escaped incarceration as a spy. Beyond it is the rock of lsoletto , then the small island of Tremelone. The next places of importance on the E. bank are S. Giovanni , Castelletto and Torri. The banks now become lower. The promontory of San Vigilio , sheltered from the IN. by the Monte Baldo (p. 82), extends far into the lake and is the finest point of , view on the entire E. bank. The surrounding hills are planted with the vine, the olive and the fig. The village of Garda in a bay, at the influx of the Tesino which descends from Monte Baldo, gives its name to the lake. The chateau belongs to Count Albertini of Verona. S. in the distance* the narrow promontory of Sermione (“ Sirmio , penin- sularum insularumque ocellus”), 3 M. in length, projects into the lake, which here attains its greatest width. The poet Catullus once resided and com- posed his poems in a villa on this peninsula. The ruins still existy con- sisting of tw'o vaults , remains of a bath etc. A castle was also erected here by the Scala family, who_ for upwards of a century (1262—1389) were princes of Verona. The next places on the E. bank are Bardolino and Lazise, the latter with a harbour. The steamer finally stops at the small fortress of Pes- chiera (Rail. Restaurant), a railway-station (p. 191) and harbour at the S.E. 6 * 84 Route 8. DESENZANO. extremity of tlxe Lago di Garda, at the efflux of the Mincio. It was stormed by the Piedmontese during the revolution of 1848. Skirmishes also took place at the villages of Volta and Goito , farther S. In this district, extending from the hanks of the lake to a point con- siderably beyond Gnidizzolo (on the road from Brescia to Mantua), the fierce and sanguinary battle of Solferino was fought on June 24th, 18o9, between the united French and Italian armies and the Austrians. The defeat of the latter shortly afterwards led to the Peace of Villa- franca (p. 209). The total extent of the line of battle was upwards of 15 M. The village of Solferino (Inn, good red wine, guides) lies on the heights to the S., about 5 M. from the railway. Carriage thither and back from stat. Desenzano (see below) 15 fr. At the S.W. angle of the Lago di Garda, W. of the peninsula of Ser- mione, lies the considerable Lombard village of Desenzano (Mayer & Hdtel: Vittoria; Aquila ), another stat. on the Verona and Brescia line. - Near the W. bank, higher up than Desenzano, opposite the above- mentioned promontory of San Vigilio, lies the small Isola di S. Biagio (St. Blasius) ; near it the beautiful, crescent-shaped island of Leeehi , or /sola dei Frati. In the recess of a bay to the W. is situated Salb, a large village in a luxuriantly fertile district (charming prospect by evening-light from the Monte S. Bartolommeo). Farther N. is Gargnano, an important looking place, surrounded by lemon-gardens and orange-plantations, the most beautiful point on the lake. Lemons flourish here in the open air, but are covered in winter, to facilitate which, pillars of brick are erected at intervals and connected by cross-beams. The principal villa is the property of Count Bettoni of Brescia. Most of the plantations belong to him and other Italian noblemen. Some of the gardens produce as many as 70,000 lemons annually, which realize 4 fr. and upwards per hundred. The lemons of Gargnano are less delicate-, but keep better than those of Sicily. The mountains become more lofty. Tremosine lies at a great elevation and is scarcely visible from the lake; the path to it, traversing a preci- pitous rock, is not easily distinguished. Farther on, in a bay, appear the white houses of Limone, another lemon and olive-growing village, situated about 41/2 M. S. of the Fall of the Ponal (p. 82). The Railway to Verona from Peschiera traverses the chain of hills by which the Lake of Garda is bounded on the E. Stations Castelnuovo and Somma Campagna. Near Verona is the village of S. Lucia; r. the churchyard, shaded with cypresses. Verona see R. 31. 9. From Vienna to Trieste. Semmering Railway. Austrian S. Railway. Expr. in l41/ 2 hrs., ordinary trains in 22— 23 hrs.; fares 28 fl. 26, 21 fl. 20, 14 fl. 13 kr. (express l/ 5 th more). Fifty Tbs. of luggage free, provided it is at the station at least 1 / 2 ’hr. before the depar- ture of the train; otherwise the whole must be paid for. Best views gene- rally on the left. For farther particulars see Bcedeker’s S. Germany. BADEN. 9. Route. 85 The station of the S. Railway is between the Belvedere and the Favorite “Lines”. The train, soon after starting, affords a good survey of Vienna, the environs and the surrounding ranges of mountains. On the summit of the Wiener Berg (1.) rises the Gothic Cross of St. Crispin, erected in 1542. On the mountains to the r. near stat. Brunn are several ruined castles, of which Liechtenstein, one of the most important, was destroyed by the Turks. Near stat. Modling (HirschJ a picturesque rocky valley with attractive pleasure-grounds is disclosed to view; branch-line hence ‘E. to Laxenburg (imperial chateau and park). Near Baden several picturesque ruins rise on the r. The view to the 1. over the broad plain, sprinkled with villages, is bounded by the Leytha Mts. Baden ( Stadt Wien ; Redoute; Fuchs; Schwarzer Adler ; Lowe; Cafe at the station), a considerable town with a number of handsome villas, is celebrated for its mineral springs, the Rom. Thermae Pannonicae. The “Ursprung” , or principal spring (72 — 100° Fahr.), rises at the base of the Calvarienberg , the summit of which commands an extensive prospect. Voslau (*Schweizerhof) yields one of the best Austrian red wines. Near Leobersdorf the barren Schneeberg (6566 ft.) rises on the r. ; a gully containing snow is visible near the summit. Neustadt, or Wienerisch-Neustadt ( Hirsch ; TJngar. Krone, both in the town; Stadler, near the station), has been entirely rebuilt since a conflagration in 1834 (popul. 10,800). It is surrounded by a lofty, pinnacled wall. On the E. side is the former ducal Castle of the Babenberg family, converted in 1752 into a military academy. In the court a statue of the empress Maria Theresa. Neustadt is connected with Vienna by a canal, used chiefly for the transport of coals and timber. Branch-line in 2 hrs. S.E. to Oedenburg, which lies 7 M. to the W. of the saline Neusiedler See. On the r. beyond Neustadt the Schneeberg rises on the r., the Leytha range on the 1. Extensive fields of Indian corn are traversed, then plantations of pine. R., in the distance, the well-preserved castle of Sebenstein, the property of Prince Liechten- stein. Near stat. Ternitz the Schneeberg is again visible on the r. Stat. Potschach, a manufacturing place. On the height to the 1. near Gloggnitz rises the castle of Wartenstein. The Gloggnitzer 86 Route 9. SEMMERING. From Vienna Schloss on the hill, with its numerous windows, was a Benedictine Abbey till 1803. At stat. Gloggnitz (1329 ft.) (*Rail. Restaurant ) the *Sem- mering Railway, one of the grandest existing examples of en- gineering of this description, commences (best seats on the 1.). The locomotive now reduces its speed Fine retrospect of Gloggnitz. In the valley of the green Schwarzau is the imperial paper-factory of Schleglmvhl. L. the three-peaked Semmering, W. in the back- ground the Raxalp. The line describes a wide circuit round the N. slope of the valley and crosses the Reichenauer Thai by a great viaduct (300 yds. long). Incline 1 : 40. Two small tunnels, then stat. Eichberg , 540 ft. above Gloggnitz. Extensive prospect over the plain. The Ootschakegel is now skirted and two more tunnels are traversed. Stat. Klamm ; the half-ruined castle of Prince Liechten- stein on a rocky pinnacle, was once the key of Styria. Ear below runs the old Semmering road; near it are several manufactories and the white houses of Schottwien. The green dale visible beyond the next tunnel is the TJntere Atlitzgraben. The Wein- zettelwand is next skirted by means of a long gallery; then a tunnel, and two bridges which carry the line to the- S. slope of the Obere Atlitzgraben. After traversing three more tunnels the train reaches Stat. Semmering (2790 ft.), the culminating point of the line. At the highest point of the high road (3140 ft.) is the Erzherzog Johann Inn, 1 M. from the stat. In order to avoid the remaining portion (300 ft.) of the ascent the line now pene- trates the highest part of the Semmering, the boundary between Austria and Styria, by means of a tunnel nearly 1 M. in length, beyond which several peaceful dales are passed. Next stat. Murzzuschlag (*Brciuhaus; Elephant; Rail. Restaurant), 2100 ft. above the sea-level. The line now follows the Milrz, the pic- turesque, pine-clad valley of which contains numerous forges. To the r. in the valley, beyond Krieglach, is the new chateau, and on the height the old castle of Mitterdorf. Then Kindberg and Kapfenberg with the castles of the same names. Near stat. Bruck rises the ancient castle of Landskron. Bruck (Eisenbahn- Gasthof; Adler ; Mitterbrdu) is a small town at the confluence of the Murz and the Mur. The line to Trieste. GRATZ. 9. Route. 87 now enters the narrow valley of the Mur. Stat. Pernegg , with chateau. Near Mixnitz are several interesting stalactite caverns; the finest is the Drachenhohle near Rbthelstein, to the N., on the 1. hank of the Mur (approach fatiguing, 1 hr.). The forges *of Frohnleiten on the r. hank and the castle of Pfannberg on the 1. hank belong to Prince Lohkowitz. Schloss Rabenstein on the r. hank is the property of Prince Liechtenstein. The line next passes the Badelvcand and skirts the river hy means of a rocky gallery of 35 arches, above which the high road is situated. Stat. Peggau possesses silver and lead mines. The train crosses the Mur, passes stat. Klein-Stubing and enters the fertile basin in which Gratz it situated. On an emi- nence to the W. rises the picturesque Gothic pilgrimage-church of Strassengel (1355 ft.). To the r. rises the castle of Gosting , the property of Count Attems, a favourite resort of the Gratzers. Farther on is the castle of Eggenberg , 3. M. from Gratz. Gratz (1100 ft.) (On the r. bank of the Mur: *Elephant, R. 1 fl.; Gold. Ross; *Florian; Engel, unpretending. — On the 1. bank; *Erzherz. Johann; Stadt Triest; Gold. Krone; JJnga.r. Krone.), the capital of Styria (63,176 inhab.), picturesquely situated on both banks of the Mur, which is here crossed by four bridges, is one of the most agreeable towns in Austria and has been greatly improved since the demolition of the forti- fications. The *Schlossberg , which rises about 400 ft. above the river, was fortified in the 15th cent, to protect the town against Turkish marauders. The works were dismantled by the French in 1809, but partially restored in 1849. The summit commands one of the finest views in Germany, embracing the course of the Mur and the populous valley, enclosed by most picturesque mountains: N. the Schockel (4425 ft.), N.W. the Upper Styrian Mts., S.W. the Schwanberg Alps, S. the Bachergebirge. The plateau in front of the Swiss house is embellished with a bronze Statue of General Welden. The Gothic Cathedral elates from 1446. In the immediate vicinity is the Mausoleum of Emp. Ferdinand II. (d. 1637), in which the Archduke John (d. 1859) is also interred. The Theatre is one of the best in the Austrian provinces: in front, of it stands a Statue of Francis I. in bronze. The Land- haus , or Council Hall , an extensive and imposing pile, was erected in 1569. The *Johanneum y a spacious edifice with 88 Route 9. MARBURG. From Vienna gardens, was founded by Archduke John in 1811 as an institution for the promotion of agriculture and practical science in Styria. It contains specimens of the staple commodities of this district and an admirable natural history museum. As the train proceeds, indications of the richer vegetation of the south become more apparent. On the mountains to the r rises the castle of Premstdtten; to the 1. an extensive plain; distant mountains rise on the r. and 1. On the 1. beyond stat. Karlsdorf rises the castle of Weisseneck, frequently besieged by the Turks. The mountains on the r. separate Styria from Carinthia. Near Wildon the Kainacli is crossed. Tycho Brahe, the astronomer, once made his astronomical observations in the castle of Wildon on the height. R., near Leibnitz is the archiepiscopai castle of Seckau, 1. the castle of Labeck. The Sulm is now crossed. On a wooded eminence on the r. is the castle of Ehrenhausen, with the mausoleum of the Princes of Eggenberg, surmounted by a dome. Spielfeld, the next castle which comes in view, once belonged to the Duchess de Berry, whose sump- tuous chateau of Brunnsee is 4 1 / 2 M. distant. Diligence and omnibus in 4 hrs. from stat. Spielfeld to the Baths of Gleichen- berg , which were known as early as the Roman period. The train quits the Mur and enters the mountainous tract which separates the Mur from the Drau. Near Possnitz a via- duct 700 yds, in length (64 arches) and a tunnel of equal length are traversed. Marburg ( Stadt Wien ; Stadt Meran , nearest the station), the second town in Styria, is very inferior to Gratz in size^ and ani- mation (popul. 8000). To the S.W. extends the long range of the Bacher-Gebirge, clothed with vineyards and forest; the S. and E. slopes yield excellent wine. Branch-line from Marburg to Klagenfurt and Villaoh. A pleasing glimpse is obtained from the train as it crosses the Drau. District uninteresting. Stations Kranichsfeld and Pragerhof (whence a line leads to Pest, skirting the long Plat- tensee). Beyond stat. Poltschach the scenery improves. The Baths of Rohitsch , which attract many visitors, lie 12 M. to the S.E., near the Croatian frontier. to Trieste. CILLI. 9. Route. 89 The German language is now replaced hy a Sclavonic or Wend dialect. The line winds through a scantily populated district. The valleys are generally narrow and picturesque, the mountains richly wooded. Maize and vines are occasionally seen on the slopes. Several unimportant places are passed, and at length an extensive view of a populous and undulating plain, hounded by the Carinthian Alps, is suddenly disclosed. Cilli (748 ft.) (Krone; Rail. Restaurant ), an ancient town of some importance, founded hy the Emp. Claudius' ( Claudia Celleia). Roman reliefs and memorial stones are still found imbedded in the walls. On a wooded mountain in the vicinity rise the ruins of the castle o LObercilli ; on the slope to the N.E. stands the Lazarist monastery of St. Joseph with its two towers. The train crosses the green Sann several times and then enters the narrow and wooded valley of that stream. This is the most interesting part of the line. Many of the highest peaks in the vicinity are picturesquely crowned whith white churches and chapels. Markt Tilffer , with ruined castle, possesses mineral baths of some note (102° Fahr.J; so also Bad Tuffer (known to the Ro- mans) and Teplitz (== warm hath in Sclavonic). The two last, with attractive grounds and promenades, are much visited by pa- tients and pleasure-seekers, especially from Trieste. Steinbriicken is a flourishing village on the Save or Sau 7 which here unites with the Sann. Branch-line hence S.E. to Agram. The train now remains for 1 hr. in the narrow valley of the Save, enclosed by lofty limestone cliffs and often affording but little space for the river and railway. Productive coal mines near stat. Hrastnig; Stations Triffail , Sagor, the first place in Carniola, and Sava. The valley now expands. The white chateau of Bonowiczjaid the distillery below belong to a merchant of Vienna. At Littai the Save is crossed. Scenery still very picturesque. At the influx of the Laibach into the Save, the line quits the latter and enters the valley of the former river. The lofty mountain- range now visible is that of the Julian or Qarnian Alps: in clear weather the Terglou (9636 ft.) is seen towards the N.W. The two isolated mountains rising on the T's.W. are the Gonberge. Stat. Salloch , then 90 Route 9. LAIBACH. From Vienna Laibach (958 ft.) (*Stadt Wien ; Elephant ), Sclav. Ljubljana , on the Laibach , is the capital of Carniola, with 20,747 inhab., situated in an extensive plain enclosed by mountains of various elevations. An old Castle, now used as a prison, rises above the town, commanding a magnificent prospect, especially towards the Terglou, Loibl and the Carnian Mts. The Cathedral , an edifice in the Italian style, is decorated with stucco and nume- rous frescoes of the 18th cent. The Landes-Museum in the school-buildings comprises a collection of the products of the dis- trict. Laibach is best known from its having been the seat of a Congress (Jan. 17th to May 12th, 1821), the principal object of which was to settle the affairs of Naples. The principal square is still named Congress-Platz. Radetzki s Monument was erected in 1860. The head-dress of the peasant-women of Carniola consists of a white cloth hanging down in a long peak behind. The line now traverses the marshy Laibacher Moos by means of an embankment, IJ /3 M. in length, and crosses the Laibach, which here becomes navigable, although only 3 M. below the point where it issues from the rocks near Oberlaibach. This is most probably the same river as that which rises near stat. St. Peter (see below), is termed the Poik and is lost in the Adelsberg Cavern; then emerges under the name of the Unz and after a short career again disappears to the S. of Loitsch. Such phenomena are not uncommon among the Julian Alps, a lime- stone range of mountains intersecting Carniola from N.W. to S.E. Near stat. Franzdorf the line is carried past Oberlaibach and enters a more mountainous district by means of a viaduct 600 yds. long, 120 ft. high in the centre, and supported by a double series of arches (25 in number). Stat. Loitsch (1499 ft.) (Post or Stadt Triest). Quicksilver Mines of Istria, 15 M. N.W. of Loitsch; carriage thither in 4 hrs., 6 — 8 fl. for the excursion; inspection of the mines 3—4 hrs.; drive back 4 hrs. The entrance to the mines is approached by 787 step’s hewn in the limestone-rock, in the ancient town of Idria (1488 ft.) (Schwarzer Adler), which lies in a sequestered valley. Drops of the pure metal are everywhere visible adhering to the ore. The latter is brought to the surface in tuns from a depth of 2500 ft,, conveyed to the stamping-mills and thence by means of canals to the washing houses, where the superfluous earthy particles are removed It is then melted in furnaces, the fumes from which are conducted to the cooling chambers, where the metal is deposited in showers of minute globules. Annual yield 125 tons, part of which is converted into cinnabar on the spot. to Trieste. ADELSBERG. 9. Route. 9i Next stat. Rarek. The water of the Zirknitzer See , 372 S.E., enclosed by lofty mountains, disappears in the clefts of the rock and emerges in the Laibach Valley lower down as the Bistriza and Boruniza. Then stat. Adelsberg (1708 ft.) (* Krone ; Eisenbahn ), Sclav. Postdjna. The celebrated *S t al ac tit e Caverns, known in the middle ages and accidentally re-discovered in 1816, are under the supervision of a society (“Grotten- Verwaltung”), which issues tickets of admission at Adelsberg (70 kr. each). The guides (“Grottendiener” ; 3 necessary for 1—3 pers., one more for every 4 pers. additional) receive 80 kr. each, which includes the ordinary illumination (4 lbs. more of candles 2 fl. 10 kr., each additional lb. 50 kr.; without sufficient light the effect is very im- perfect). About 21/2— '<3 hrs. are occupied in exploring the caverns. Tem- perature of the interior 48° Fahr. (The Recca Caverns of St C-anzian , men- tioned below, are even more imposing, but of less easy access.) An avenue of lime-trees ascends to the Entrance (2218 ft.), 3 /4 M- W. of Adelsberg. The cavern consists of a number of different chambers to which various appellations are given. The farthest extremity is nearly 2000 yds. from the entrance, greatest height 108 ft. The most remarkable feature of the caverns is the vast variety of stalactites (depending from above) and stalagmites (upward formations) which they possess. In some places they resemble beautiful drapery, feebly illumined by the lights behind, at other places they take the form of petrified waterfalls, fountains, palms, cypresses etc. Other formations bear a resemblance to human beings . and animals, and are named accordingly. Some of the columns have attained a diameter of 12 ft. and upwards. The fact that the or- dinary dropping of the water forms a scarcely perceptible deposit in 13 years serves to convey an idea of the incalculable antiquity of these formations. The train now traverses a dreary , inhospitable plain, strewn with blocks of limestone , termed the Karst (Ital. Carso, Sclav. Gabrek) , which commences before Adelsberg is reached and extends from Fiume (p. 95) to Gorz (p. 264). The surface is intersected by numerous gorges and occasionally covered with thickets of underwood. Curious funnel-shaped cavities in the rocks are observed here. The N.E. wind (Bora), which often rises to a hurricane in this district, has been known to overturn loaded waggons. At stat. Prestanek the train crosses the Poik. Beyond stat. St. Peter it passes through six tunnels. Next stations Lesetsche and Divazza (2 M. to the S.E. are the Grottoes of St. Canzian\ *Mahorcie’s Inn at Nacla in the vicinity). Beyond stat. Sessdna (1570 ft.) the high road is crossed and the train descends to stat. Prosecco and stat. Nabresina, where the line to Venice by 92 Route 9. TRIESTE. Hotels. Udine diverges (carriages generally changed here]. As the train descends in long curves to Trieste a magnificent *view of the ue Adriatic, Trieste and the Istrian coast is obtained (best seats on the r.]. Grignano, the last station, is in a straight di- rection not above l'/a M. below Prosecco. On the Punta Gric- nana, which here projects into sea, is situated the handsome chateau of Miramar, the residence of the illfated Emp. Maximilian of Mexico. The train then passes through a long tunnel and reaches the station of HJ,!**;, ® 0te ! S - * H6tel dela VilIe (PI. a), comfortable; ‘Grand San own, l Vlc ‘° r ’a(Pl.c); Hotel de Prance (PI. d); Alberpo fev"»l ‘ 5 " K °“ 1 deV111 *t Sp.e.jH, Piazza Grande; severa 1 near the post-office and many others. — Restaurants: Toni Zum fine ° ’ b + ° th m the ° ld t0Wn ’ Solder ’ s Garden, below the castle, gardens 0815601 ’ C ° nC ® rtS fre< l uentl y 5 Monte Verde and others with n-phfTnT t0 ° r fr °? the Stati ° n ’ one - horse 50 kl h two-horse 1 fl., at % airtight »£ " ” 15 t0 “>> the **•»*/ weokl tea ? b °T a f- ° f the “ AuStrian L1 °y d ” t0 Venice (B. 37) three times weekly, to Istria once (to Pola twice) weekly ; to Greece, Constantinople and the Levant once weekly; to Alexandria four times monthly, at thp R S; t ^ arm at Oesterreicher’s, near the Artillery Arsenal, and HfitPl H i v-n 6 ? • G ° ldat thG Maria bath-establ., opp. the Mnh h i IT \ g6li ’ inthe harbou H Boscaglia, between the Molo del Sale and the Molo Klutsch; Military Swimming Bath, 1 below the lighthouse. Ferry to the baths 4, back 2 soldi. - Boats 1—11/. fl per hour. u Theatres Tea tro Grande (PI. 21), opp. the Tergesteo ; Teatro ilauroner (PI. 22), Corsia Stadion; Teatro Fi 1 o dr am ati c o (PI 23): Armonia (PI. 24). English Church Service performed by a resident chaplain. Tneste (more fully described in Baedeker’s 8. Germany ), the Tergeste of the Romans, capital of Illyria, situated at the N.E. extremity of the Adriatic, is the most important sea-port of Austria (popul. 64,095). It was constituted a free harbour by Emp. Charles VI. in 1719 and may be termed the Hamburg of S. Germany. Every European nation has a consul here. The population is most heterogeneous, but the Italian element predo- minates. The Harbour is the focus of animation. On the N. is the new Lazzaretto, erected in 1769, one of the most extensive in D armstaStt, IB iWagaei*. A [ B K(k D2 E 3 E2 E. Ht D. 3. E. 4. H « Aj a . Hotel dele b Zocande, < c Victoria, d do trance e JDajiieL con HibUoteca aotcCL ocintco ]Husco Fcrdznando Zdrco diRicardo F ?idricnalc del I.loi/d d cutst- I’lCO ^Ilors-a 5. Canale, grande * 6 CaJbmictto letterarco dr Miner -on con propria , biblioteoa. Chiese. 7. S‘ Antoni o nil on o 8 CaUedrale S. Giusto 9. S-Maria ldajCjgiore 10 SJKcolo dei, Greet, XI. S.Retro V-liogana nnona V&.£deficiodclln Samta, l'l hamiretto nnono 15 „ 16 Masco eMmi 17 Teatri 21 T grande 22 DHajuroner 2 3 FilodrainaltjCf} 2^JrmoTuxLc 25 Tarfesteuirv, 26 Uffu-ia del/a Zosta 27 „ /, BoUthcl, 28 VUla^ZipporuL. Cor so. TRIESTE. 9. Route. 93 Europe. A lofty Lighthouse rises on the S.W, Molo. The old Lazzaretto is now used as an arsenal. The well-huilt New Town , adjoining the harbour, is intersected by a Canal (PI. 5), by means of which vessels are enabled to discharge their cargoes close to the magazines of the merchants. At the extremity of the Canal is the modern church of S. Antonio (PI. 7) in -the Greek style. Near the Hotel de la Ville is the *Greek Church (PI. 10) (divine service at 6 a. m. and 5 p. m.), sumptuously fitted up. To the 1. of the Hotel de la Ville is the Palazzo Carciotti , with .a large green dome. In the vicinity is the *Tergesteo (PI. 25). an extensive pile of buildings, the exterior of which is occupied by shops, and the interior by a glass gallery in the form of a cross, where the Exchange (12 — 2 o’clock) is situated. The principal part of the edifice is occupied by the offices and Reading Room of the u Austrian Lloyd”, a steamboat- company established in 1833. Strangers are seldom denied access. The Old Exchange in the vicinity is disused. In front of it a foun- tain and a Statue of Leopold I. erected in 1660. The Corso, the principal street of Trieste, connecting the Piazza Grande with the Piazza of the Exchange , separates the new town from the old. The latter, nestling round the hill on which the castle rises, consists of narrow and steep streets, not accessible to carriages. To the 1. on the route to the cathedral and the castle is situated the Jesuits’ Church ( S . Maria Maggiore , PI. 9), containing a large modern fresco by Sante. Nearly opposite is the Piazzetta di Riccardo, named, it is said, after Richard Coeur de Lion, who was imprisoned here after his return from Palestine. The Arco di Riccardo (PL 2) is believed by some to be a Roman triumphal arch, by others to have appertained to an aqueduct. The Cattedrale S. Giusto (PI. 8) originally consisted of a basilica, a baptistery ^and a small Byzantine church, dating from the 5th and 6th cent., which in the 14th cent, were united so as to form a whole. The tower contains Roman columns } Six Rom. tombstones (busts in relief) are immured in the portal, and several Rom. inscriptions will be observed. The altar-niches of the interior contain two ancient mosaics, representing Christ and Mary. The S. aisle contains the tombstone of Don Carlos, pretender to the Spanish crown. 94 Route 9. TRIESTE. Campo Marzo. A former burial-ground adjoining tbe church is now used as a repository of Roman Antiquities (PI. 16) of no great value (key kept by the sacristan of the cathedral). Winckelmann, the eminent German antiquarian, who was robbed and murdered by- an Italian at the Locanda Grande in 1768, is interred here. A mo- nument was erected to his memory in 1832. Fouche , once the powerful minister of police of Napoleon I., died at Trieste in 1820 and was interred on the terrace in front of the church. Fine view of the town and sea hence; still more- extensive from the height on which the Castle stands. A long avenue, commanding a succession of beautiful views,, ascends gradually from the Campo Marzo , on the E. side of the- town, to Servola , 2V 2 M. distant. Another attractive walk is by the Acquedotto , through a picturesque valley to the Boschetto, &• very favourite resort; thence by a shady path to the “Jager”, a good point of view. Pleasant excursion to the chateau of Miramar , the property of the Empress Charlotte, widow of the Emp. Maximilian of Mexico* (d. 1867). It is easily reached from the railway-stat. Grignano, or by carriage (2 — 3 fl.). The situation and views are charming. Excursions by boat to 8. Bartolo , to Muggia; also to the ex- tensive Wharves of the Lloyd Co. (l*/ 2 hr*)* opposite to Servola (admission daily, except Sundays and festivals, and the hours- 11 — 1 o’clock; attendant 1 / 2 — 1 fl.). From Trieste to Pol a and Fiurae steamboat twice weekly; in 10 brs. to Pola (reaching Fiume on the following morning, hut once weekly only); fares 5 fl. 40, 3 fl. 65, 1 fl. 75 kr. — Those who proceed as far as Fiume may return thence hy diligence to Trieste in 11 lms.. (6I/2 fl.). The steamer skirts the undulating, olive-clad coast of Istria. In as distant hay S.E. lies Capo d'Istria with an extensive house of correction. On an eminence rises the church of Pirano ; the town itself, with 9000' inhab., is picturesquely situated in a hay; the pinnacles and towers of the former fortress peep from amidst olive-plantations. The lighthouse of Salvore is next passed, then Umdgo , the castle of Daila , Cittanova , Pareazo (with remarkable cathedral, a basilica of 961) and Orsera. In the dis- tance to the E. rises Monte Maggiore (4400 ft..). The vessel now stops at Rovigno (Sismondi), a prosperous town with 14,000 inhab.; staple commo- dities wine, oil and sardines. To the r. near Fasdna rise the Brionian Islands , separated hy a narrow strait from the mainland. The grand am- phitheatre of Pola now comes in sight. The excellent harbour, the princi- pal station of the Austrian fleet, but of no commercial importance, is de- fended hy two towers. POLA. 9. Route. 95 Pola ( Hotel de la Ville), an insignificant place with 1200 inhab., is of very ancient origin, having been probably founded by Thracians. It was afterwards the Pietas Julia, a war-harbour of the Romans, from which period its magnificent and highly interesting antiquities date. These may be visited in the following order (guide unnecessary): The * Temple of Augustus and Roma (B. C. 19), 26 ft. in height and 50 ft. in width, with a colonnade of six Corinthian columns 22 ft. in height, and with admirably executed decorations on the frieze, is almost in perfect preservation. The collection of antiquities in the interior is insignificant. In the vicinity stood a temple, of Diana , or more probably of Roma , of which the posterior wall only is preserved. This fragment was em- ployed about the year 1300 in the construction of the Palazzo Fubblico , which is incorporated with it with considerable skill. The traveller now proceeds across the market-place towards the S, and at the end of a long street reaches the Porta Aurata, an elegant iso- lated arch in the Corinthian style, 21 ft. in height, ereeted by the Sergian family. At some distance to the r. stood the ancient Theatre , the site of whieh only is now "recognisable by a semicircular depression in the hill. The remnants' were employed in 1630 in the construction of the fort. Excavations which are still prosecuted have brought to light the ancient Porta Erculea and the Porta Gemina. The latter formed the en- trance to the Roman capitol, the site of which is now occupied by the Castle. On the E. side of the latter is a Franciscan Monastery , erected in the 13th cent., now a military magazine. It possesses fine cloisters, and an elegant Romanesque portal on the W. side. The laurel-tree in the court is said to be a scion of that which yielded its foliage to grace Caesar’s triumphal entry into the capitol. Beyond the latter the * Arena is reached. It was erected about the period of the Antonines (A. D. 150) and could accommodate 15,000 specta- tors. Height 75 ft. , diameter 333 ft. The lower stories consist of two series of arches (72 in number) 18 ft. in height, one above the other; the upper story is a wall with square openings for windows. The exterior is in admirable preservation, but the interior presents a scene of desola- ion; the arrangements for the Naumachia in the centre can alone now be traced. Four gates, with projecting buttresses of which the object is un- known, form the entrances. The steamboat (once weekly) generally quits Pola late in the evening and arrives at Fiume early on the following morning. The broad Quar- nei'o Bay is traversed. To the 1. rises Monte Maggiore (4400 ft.) ; r. in the distance the Croatian-Mts. of which the Kapella range is the most prominent. Fiume, Illyr. Reka (*R& d'Ungheria), the capital of the Hungarian coast- district, with 15,319 inhab., contains Tittle to interest the traveller. On the height, 1/2 hr. walk from the inn, is the castle of *Tersato , the pro- perty of the Austrian Marshal Nugent. A small temple here contains a good collection of ancient reliefs, busts, statues etc. In the vicinity a much frequented Pilgrimage- Church, with an image of the Madonna of Lo- retto. *View of the Bay of Quarnero with its islands, Fiume and the adjoining coast. 96 NORTHERN ITALY. 10. Turin, Ital. Torino. Hotels. •Euro-pa (PI. a). Piazza Castello 19, spacious apartments R. from 21/ 2 , L. 3/ 4 , B. ll/ 2 , D. 4, A. 1 fr. ; *Hotel Trombetta (PI c’ formerly Feder ), Via S. Francesco di Paola 8, near the corner of the Via di Po, R. 21/2, D. 4, A. 1 fr. ; BonneFemme or Hotel d’Angleterre (PI. f), Via Barbaroux 1. — Second class, with restaurants: Caccia Reale (PI. g) , Via della Caccia 2; Concordia (PI. h) , Via di Po 20; *Liguria, Via Nuova 31; Tre Corone, Via S. Tommaso; Bologna’ Piazza d’Armi 4; Dogana Vecchia; Alb ergo delMoro; Roma etc. — Table d’hote generally at 5 o’clock, also a la carte, or at a fixed charge ( 31/2 to 3 fr.) The Grissini , long and thin rolls, so termed from a physi- cian of that name, are said to be particularly wholesome. Best wines : Barber Barolo , Nebiolo , Grignolino. Restaurants etc. Cambio, Piazza Carignano 2, good wines; Paris (PI. k), Via di Po 21, good cuisine, D. 4 fr.; S. Carlo (PI. n) ; Con- cordia (PI. h), Via di Po 20; Meridiana (PI. m) etc. — Cafts: *de Paris (PI. k); *S. Carlo, Piazza S. Carlo 2; Nazionale, Via di Po20; Madera, Via Lagrange 10; Romano, corner of the Via di Po and Via Carlo Alberto; Bava Giuseppe, Via di Po 24. Ices everywhere, sor- betti and pezzi duri (hard ices). A favourite morning beverage is a mixture of coffee, milk and choco- late, “un biccMerino ” 20 c. - The Nuevo Giard in p Pub b lie b (with restaurant, concert in the evening) near the chateau of Valentino (p. 105) is a favourite promenade in the evening. Fiacres, or Oittadine , stand in the Piazza Castello, Via Nuova and Piazza S. Carlo; per drive (corsa) 1, per hr. (ora) ll/ 2 fr., at night (12—6 a. m.) V 2 fr - more; two-horse carr. per drive 2, per hr. 21/ 2 fr. — Omnibuses run frequently from the Piazza Castello to each of the four gates, fare H) c. Hotel omnibus to or from the stat. generally H/ 2 fr. Railway E. to Alessandria (Genoa, Bologna) see R. 13; S. to Sa- 1 u z z 0 , Bra and Cuneo (Nice) in 21/2 brs. (R. 17); S.W. to Pinerolo (p. 104) in I hr.; W. to Susa (Mont Cenis , p. 40) in 1-1/4 hr.; N.E. to Ivrea (p. 106); Biella and Novara (Arena, Milan), see R. 17. Diligence (from Cuneo) to Nice: office . Ballesio, Strada Cavour. Seats should be engaged in good time, as the number of passengers is limited to 8 (coupe 25, interieur 23 fr.). Post Office, Via d’Angepnes 10. Telegraph Office, Piazza Castello. Bookseller, Loesclier, Via Carlo Alberto 5, with circulating library of English, French, German and other books. Parade with military music in front of the W. Portal of the Palazzo Madama and at the Royal Palace daily at 12 and 5 o’clock. Military music in the Piazza d’Armi on Sunday afternoons. Baths, Via del Po 51 (1 fr. 25 c.). Swimming Bath (scuola di nuoto) above the old bridge over the Po (p. 105), 60 c. | 9. Acvademue BelleArd 10. Accadem ia Sdenxe 11 JrjneruL Reale Mt.Arsenale ! YS Jlorscv di CorruncrcLo ! VlJhxaCuvour Monitmeiili I 15. AIL ' Esercilo Sardo. ] Va. Amedeo Yi. B alb o. corde Cesar e- | IS. Car fa Alberto | 19 .EmanudeA’iUberto ; 20 . Gioberti (Fiacenxo) | 21. AfcuiirisVanzelc, . 22 . Pep(zlGenerale (hujlLelrno) 23 SiccardE 2’iAforzte de CappitcuiL- I I^JITuseo d 'AriiichitZjL r SiariasNal, 1 *' Palazzi priacipali . T&.Carignuno 6 tl di Gita \ 28 tteZ. Htuu ilj (ic/ionu I 29. MatUtma. (PiiuuxrteciLd i 30 cLLdTaaistratL Supr: Hl-deLRe. , / I ’Si.delU.Ton-L \ 'Si.PosUu ilelle.Zetla'e, Teatri . 34 dJAngenivES . 35 . Cariqruzrw j 36 r«yw . | 3T. Telcifrtdi i 3 %.l r /uverfitcL j (jffiiseoZafiidoTio) P . di f ondm )' . llonne Femmz. ltC& I !! MfiUas WrPortnla. ^iLVrileiitinoi 'T~ -4-* 1 f r> ) Jean Tairraz, the land- lord, is well acquainted with the environs; Poste; Ecu de Valais); the Augusta Praetoria Salassorum of the Romans, now the ca- pital (7760 inhab.) of the Italian province of that name, lies at the confluence of the Buttier and the Poire , or Dora Baltea. The valley was anciently inhabited by the Salassi, a Celtic race, who commanded the passage of both the Great and Little St. Ber- nard , the two most important routes from Italy to Gaul. They frequently harassed the Romans in various ways and on one occasion plundered the coffers of Caesar himself. After protracted struggles this tribe was finally extirpated by Augustus , who founded Aosta to protect the high roads, named it after himself and garrisoned it with 3000 soldiers of the Praetorian cohorts. The antiquities still extant testify to its ancient importance. The Town Walls are flanked with strong towers. The double S. Gate resembles the Porta Nigra of Treves in miniature ; near it is the fine Arch of a bridge, half buried. The magnificent Triumphal Arch, constructed of huge blocks and adorned with 10 Corinthian columns, is at once light and massive. Inscription modern. There are also ruins of a theatre, amphitheatre etc. The modern Cathedral possesses a singular P ortal, with fres- coes; above it the Last Supper in terra cotta, gaudily painted. Near the church of St. Ours are cloisters with columns, the sculp- tured capitals of which date from the 11th cent. Modern Town Hall in the spacious market-place (the Piazza Carlo Alberto ). 110 Route 12. VOGHERA. From Turin, The valleys of Aosta and Susa (p. 40) were taken from the Lombards by the Franks and formed part of the Franconian Empire. This fact accounts for the predominance. of the French language in these Italian valleys. From Aosta over the Great St. Bernard to Martigny (p. 43), and from Aosta to Courmayeur and round Mont Blanc to Cha- mouny , see Baedeker's Switzerland. One-horse carr. to St. Remy (where the carriage -road to the Great St. Bernard at present terminates) 15, to Courmayeur 20, to Chatillon (p. 108) 12 fr. Diligence to Courmayeur and Pre St. Didier. 12. Prom Turin to Piacenza by Alessandria. Railway in 4l/ 2 — 61/ 2 hrs. ; fares 20 fr. 75, 14 fr. 55, 10 fr. 40 c. From Turin to Alessandria see R. 13. Beyond Alessandria the train traverses the Battle-field of Marengo (p 185). The village of that name is close to (N.W.) the first stat. Spinetta. Next stat. S. Qiuliano. The train then crosses the Scrivia und reaches Tortona ( Croce Bianca ), the ancient Dertona, a small town with a Cathedral erected by Philip II. in 1584, and containing a re- markably fine ancient sarcophagus. Branch Railway to Novi (p. 185), by stat. Pozzuolo, in 35— 45 min. (2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 50, 1 fr. 5 c.) ; daily two trains only, three on Sundays. A fertile tract is traversed, and near stat. Ponte the impetuous Curone is crossed. Voglrcra (Moro; Italia ; Posta), a town with 10,173 inhab. on the 1. bank of the Staffora (perhaps the ancient Iria) , was once fortified by Giov. Galeazzo Visconti. The old church of S. Lorenzo , founded in the 11th cent., was remodelled in 1600. This town was frequently mentioned in the war of 1859. On the high road from Voghera to the next station Casteggio, to the S. of the railway, is situated Montebello , where the well known battle of June 9th, 1800 (five days before the battle of Marengo), took place, and whence Marshal Lannes obtained his ducal title. Here, too, on May, 20th, 1859, the first sanguinary encounter took place between the Austrians and the united French and Sardinian armies. Casteggio , a village on the Coppa, is be- lieved to be identical with the Clastidium , so frequently men- tioned in the annals of the wars of the Romans against the Gauls. Hence by Pavia (and the Certosa) to Milan see R. 25. to Piacenza. PIACENZA. 12. Route. Ill The train skirts the base of the N. spurs of the Apennines, on which several unimportant places are situated, and at stat. Arena-Po enters the plain of the Po, in which it remains, at some distance from the river, till it reaches Piacenza. Stat. Castel S. Giovanni is situated in the former Duchy of Parma. S. Niccolo, the last -station before Picenza, lies in the plain of the Trebia, memorable for the victory gained by Hannibal, B. C. 218, over the Romans, whom he had already defeated near Somma (p. 179) a short time previously. Piacenza, French Plaisance (*S. Marco , R. 1 1 / 2 ? D. 3 fr. ; Italia ; * Croce Bianca ; Caff e Grande in the Str. di S. Raimondo, S. of the Piazza), situated near the S. bank of the Po, which is here crossed by a bridge of boats (iron bridge in course of construction), is a large and dreary town with 39,318 inhab. It was founded by the Romans, B. C. 219, as Colonia Placentia , at the same time with Cremona. In the middle ages the town was frequently the subject of fierce party- struggles between the Scotti, Torriani and Visconti. In 1488 it was plundered by Francesco Sforza, a blow from which it never entirely recovered. In 1545 it finally came into the possession of the Farnese fa- mily and was united to Parma In the Piazza de' Cavalli is situated the *Palazzo del Comune , erected in 1281, in a com- bined Gothic and Romanesque style, with handsome colonnade. In front of it stand the equestrian Statues of the Dukes Alessandro and Ranuccio Farnese, erected 1620 — 24 and executed by Fran- cesco Mocchi, pupil of Giovanni da Bologna. Alessandro attained to great distinction in the wars in the Netherlands as governor under Philip II. He took Antwerp in 1585, besieged Paris in 1591 and died at Arras in 1592. He was succeeded by his tyrannical son Ranuccio (d. 1622). S. Francesco , situated in the Piazza , with Gothic interior, was erected in 1278. The principal street to the E. leads to the * Cathedral , dating from 1132, a Romanesque-Lombard edifice adorned with admirable frescoes by Guercino (prophets and sibyls) and Lodovico Caracci, and pictures by Procaccini and E. Sirani. The ancient crypt is borne by 100 columns. In the vreinity is *S. Antonino, formerly the cathedral, dating from 903, 1104 and 1561, with a fine old vestibule termed “II Paradiso’’. 112 Route 12. PIACENZA. *S. Maria della Campagna fat the W. extremity of the town), erected by Bramante, hut disfigured by renovations, contains some finely executed frescoes by Pordenone. *S. Sisto, at the N. end of the town , is the richest church in Piacenza, for which, about 1518, Raphael painted his master-piece, the Sistine Madonna (Madonna with S. Sisto and S. Barbara, now at Dresden). It was sold in 1753 to King Augustus III. of Poland for 20,000 ducats and replaced by a copy by Nogari. The church contains pictures by Camillo Procaceini, Palma Giovane etc. ; also the monument of Margaret of Austria., daughter of Charles V. and wife of Ottavio Farnese, Duke of Parma, father of Alessandro Farnese. To the N. of the town is the Palazzo Farnese , erected in a magnificent style by Vignola (1507 to 1573), under the reign of Margaret, one of his first great works. It was never com- pleted and is now a barrack. On the S.W-. side of the town is the Citadel , erected in 1547 and strongly fortified by the Austrians in 1848. The Library contains some valuable MSS. About 24 M. to tbe S.W., in the valley of the Trebbia, is situated the small town of Bobbio , celebrated for the Library of the monastery founded here by St. Columbanus in 612, which on the dissolution of the abbey was dispersed to Rome, Paris, Turin etc. This library contained the palimpsests from which the erudite Angelo Mai (born at Bergamo in 1782, librarian of the Vatican in 1819, cardinal in 1833, d. at Albano near Rome in 1854) brought to light so many valuable ancient works, among others “Cicero de Republica” in 1822. The remains of the ancient town of *Veileia, which is believed to have been buried by a landslip under the Emp. Probus (about 278) , is also 24 M. distant from Piacenza. A great number of antiquities excavated here in 1760 — 75 are now preserved in the museum at Parma. An amphi- theatre, temple, forum etc. have also been discovered. The route to Velieia is by S. Polo; S. Giorgio , on the Nure , with a villa of the Scotti erected by Vignola; Rezzano and Badagnano (where the carriage-road terminates). 13. From Turin to Genoa. Railway in 41 / 4 — 53/4 hrs. (Alessandria is about half-way); fares 18 fr. 30, 12 fr. 80, 9 fr. 15 c. The line at first proceeds S., at some distance from the 1. bank of the Po, which here skirts the base of the extreme spurs of the Apennines rising on its r. hank. Near stat. Monca- lieri, where the line turns to the E., the river is crossed by a bridge of 7 arches, each with a span of 50 ft. On an eminence above Moncalieri , which is picturesquely situated on the range IPVIUX 1 dccadem .Belle -drti e Bibliot civile 11.5. 1 dreivesctmado . 1.3. 3 Case/ma. e Pad. della. Jl . Marina CD. 3. 4 Chiese $. Lorenzo metrop . G.5. ; 5 .. . S.SMnnnAziata . E.3. f 6 • ■ S.Stefanv 1.5. 7 .. SMnibroyia G. 5. 8 S- Maria, di. ('aria nano H&.l. 9 , , S.Siro , F. 4. 10 Togi/ia o Bor xa T. 4. 11 Manicomio K.6. 12 Palazzo del Be E.3. | a Fedcr - ; : — : — - ; l) d' Italia '' C delta Villa d delie Quattro Mwzioni e Beale ......... f della Croce di Malta. sts»; U Bucale Tarsi o Jndrecu Boria Srianole ... - Valavicini CarloFeUce Sdbjostillo dille Viane \tle di Commercio ita. - I di Jajro agamriL ijpollo Colombo S' ASTI. 13. Route. 113 of hills, rises the handsome royal chateau, where Victor Emanuel I. died in 1823. A final retrospect is now obtained of the hills of Turin; to the 1. the conspicuous snowy summits of the Alps (p. 97). At stat. Trofarello the line to Cuneo (p. 138) diverges to the r. (S.). Next stations Cambiano , Pessione, Villanuova , Villafranca, Baldichieri and S. Damiano. The line penetrates farther into the heart of the mountains (numerous cuttings), crosses the Borbone and reaches the valley of the Tana.ro, the 1. bank of which it follows as far as Alessandria. Asti ( Leone d J Oro, R. 2 1 / 2 , B. IV2 fr -5 Alb ergo Reale), a town (20,239 inhab.) with numerous towers, the birthplace of the tragic dramatist Alfieri (d. 1803), lies to the 1. of the line. Its wine and its horticulture enjoy a high reputation. The Gothic Cathedral, erected in 1348, contains a Nativity by a master of the Cologne School. The Piazza is adorned with a Statue of Alfieri, by Vim, inaugurated in 1862. To the r. and 1. , at some distance from the town, rise the vine-clad hills which yield the excellent wine of Asti. The next stations are Annone , Cerro , Felizzano and Solero. The country is flat and fertile; the Tanaro flows on the r. Be- fore Alessandria is reached the line to Arona (R. 24) diverges to the N. The train now crosses the Tanaro by a bridge of 15 arches, winds past the fortifications and reaches Alessandria, see p. 185. From Alessandria to Genoa, see pp. 185, 186. 14. Genoa, Ital. Genova , French Genes. Hotels, almost all of unattractive exterior. *Hotel Feder, now Trombetta (PI. a), formerly the Palace of the Admiralty, entrance Rue Bogino 9, R. 3 fr. and upwards, L. 1, B. G/ 2 , D. 4, A. 1 fr. — Hotel d’ltalie (Pl.b), with view of the harbour, R. from 21/2 fr., L. t, D. 31/2, A. 1 fr.; Quattro Nazioni, Palazzo Serra (Pl. d); Londra; *Hotel de la Ville (PI. c), R. 21 / 2 , L. 1, D. 41 / 2 , A. 3/4 f r ., omnibus 1 1/4 fr. ; H 6 1 e 1 R 0 y a 1 (PI . e) ; Croce d i Malta (PI. f) ; Grande Bre- tagne; *Hotel de France; Pension Suisse, R. 2, D. 3, A. 1/2 fr- ; most of these hotels are comfortable, hut of no great pretension. They are all situated On the harbour, in the Yia Carlo Alberto, in the rear of the harbour-terrace (p. 117), and commanding a view of the harbour. Al- bergo della Vittoria, Piazza delP Annunziata 16, R. 21 / 2 , L- A. 3/ 4 f r . I sola Bella, with restaurant, near the harbour (R. 1 — 2 fr.), and Hotel Smith, on the harbour, are unpretending, hut well spoken of. Hotel National, near the station (PI. c, 2). — Those who make a prolonged stay at any of the hotels should come to a preliminary under- standing as to the charges. Baedeker. Italy I. 8 114 Route 14. GENOA. Carriages. Restaurants etp. *C o n c o r d i a , Strada Nuova, opp. the Palazzo Rosso (PI. 16), dinner M — 5 fr., good ices 60 c., music frequently in the evening. *Lega I tali an a (by the Teatro Carlo Felice, PI. 18), on the ground-floor C af e del Gr an C or s o ; C af e de Fr an c e; Rossini, opp. the post-office. — Cafe dHtalie at Acqua Sola (see p. 122). *Trattoria della Confiden- z a , Via Carlo Felice 9, dinner 3 — 4 fr. Consulates. English, Salita di S. Caterina; N. American, Piazza delle Vigne; Prussian, Palazzo Spinola, Salita di S. Caterina. Steamboats: to Leghorn (R. 45) daily at 11 p. m. in 9 hrs., fares 35,. 20 fr. ; to Spezia (R. 46) on the week-days at 9 a. m. in 5 — 6 hrs. ; to Leghorn , Civitavecchia ,< Naples and Messina , Fridays at 8 p.m.-, to Marseilles (p. 27), a French Co., Friday afternoons, in 18 — 20 hrs., fares 76, 58, 37 fr. ; to Nice (p. 130) daily at 10 p. m. in 9 — 10 hrs., fares 25, 15 fr . ; to Sardinia by Leghorn 3 times weekly i to Tunis once weekly. Embarcation in each case 1 fr. for each pers., incl. luggage. Baths, in the Via delle Grazie and Piazza Sarzana, 80 c. There is no sea-bathing establishment at Genoa. That at Pegli (p. 122) is very poor. Swimmers are recommended to bathe from a boat. Post Office, Piazza delle Fontane Morose, open 8 a. m. to 8 p. m. Telegraph Office in the Palazzo Ducale (PI. 13). Carriages for the whole day, one-horse 10, two-horse 15 fr., half a day 5 or 10 fr.*, per hr., one-horse ll/g fr., each following 1/2 hr. 75 c.; per drive 80 c. Stands in the Piazza Annunziata (p. 120) etc. Giuseppe Gusto is recommended as a vetturino; enquiry may be made at the Hotel Royal. Omnibuses traverse the city in every direction, fare 20 c. From the Piazza Carlo Felice to the railway 20 c. — Smaller vehicles run to places in the environs, but are often crowded. Diligences. Messageries Imperiales to Nice and Spezia , Piazza dell’ Annunziata $ to Chiavari , Piazza S. Domenico. Commissionnaires 5 fr. per day. Money. The Genoese Soldo = 4 Centesimi only (1 fr. — 25 Genoese soldi, 1 lira Genovese — 80 c., used only by the humbler classes). The usual soldi of 5 c. is called Palanca at Genoa, as well as in Tuscany. English Church Service throughout the year-, also Presbyterian Service. Principal attractions if time be limited: Ascent of the Madonna di Carignano (p. 116); walk on the terrace of the harbour (p. 117) and through the line of streets mentioned p. 118; visit to the Palazzo Pallavicini (p. 119) and Pal. Doria (p. 121); drive to the Villa Pallavicini (p. 122). The city of Genoa (127,986 inh.), justly termed “la superba ”, owing to its beautiful situation and its numerous palaces of marble , rises from the sea on the slope of the mountain , like a grand amphitheatre. Genoa was celebrated as a harbour at a very remote age, and as early as the Roman period was the great mart for the products of the coast-districts of the Mediterranean. The city in its present dimensions , however , dates from the middle ages. At the commencement of the 10th cent, a republic, presided over by doges, was constituted here. The citizens par- Fortifications. GENOA. 14. Route. 115 ticipated in the crusades and acquired valuable possessions in the distant East. Their great rivals were the Pisans and Ve- netians, with whom they waged fierce and interminable wars (pp. 232, 313). The Internal History of Genoa consists of a succession of violent, and frequently sanguinary party-struggles, originated chiefly by the Doria and Spinola families (Guelphs) and those of the Grimaldi and Fieschi (Ghi- bellines), to which the Doges, the presidents of the republic, belonged. Andrea Doria (p. 121) at length restored peace by the establishment of a new constitution. The unsuccessful conspiracy of Fieschi in 1547 is the last instance of an attempt to make the supreme power dependent on un- bridled personal ambition. The power of Genoa was, however, already on the wane. The Turks conquered its Oriental possessions one by one, and the city was subjected to severe humiliations by its powerful Italian rivals, as well as by the French (who took Genoa in 1684). In 1736 the ambition of Theodore de Neuhof, a Westphalian nobleman, occasioned great disquietude to the republic. He was created king by the inhabitants of Corsica, who had been subjects of Genoa, but now threw off their yoke. The Genoese pronounced the newly elected king a traitor against the “majesty of the people” ( u Qual seduttore del popolo , reo di lese maestd n )^ in consequence of which the usurper fled, and, with the aid of the French, the Genoese supremacy over Corsica was re-established. In 1746 new disasters were caused by the occupation of the city for some time by the Imperial army of Germany. After the battle of Marengo (1800) Genoa was taken possession of by the French. In 1805 it was formally annexed to the Empire of France, and in 1815 to the Kingdom of Sardinia. — An old Tuscan saying, the first part of which is not untrue, is very characteristic of the former rivalry between them and the Genoese, whom it pronounces to possess: “mare senza pesce, montagne senza alberi, uomini senza fede, e donne senza vergogna”. The city possesses a double line of Fortifications. The first of these, about 7 M. in length, encloses the city itself, the other consists of a broad rampart, 20 M. in length, which extends along the hills at some distance from Genoa and at the most elevated points is furnished with small fortified towers and intrenchments , completed in 1632 and recently strengthened. (A visit on horseback to these outworks, rising to a height of 500—1000 ft., is recommended. Guide necessary. Horse for 3 hrs. 5 fr. and fee of 1 fr., to be hired at the Hotel Feder or elsewhere). Genoa is the most important commercial town and seaport in Italy. The average number of sailing-vessels from foreign ports which enter the harbour is 1673 annually, of steamboats 797. In the coast trade 5037 sailing vessels and 1406 steamers touch 8 * 116 Route 14. GENOA. 8. Maria di Carignano. here annually. The annual imports are valued at 300 million fr., the exports at 120 million. Of the imports about one-third is from England, and a large proportion of the remainder from France and North America. The traffic of Genoa has been dou- bled within the last twelve or fourteen years. The former opulence of the city is still evidenced by the numerous and magnificent palaces of bygone ages. All the streets are paved with slabs of marble; some of them are so narrow, steep and tortuous as to be inaccessible to carriages. The great artery of the traffic of Genoa is a line of broad streets, which, like the Boulevards at Paris, encircle the city, commencing at the Railway Station, passing the Monument of Columbus (p. 120), continued by the Via Balbi, passing 8. Annun- ziata (p. 120) ; then by the Via Nuovissima, Via Nuova, Piazza delle Fontane Morose (or della Posta ) , Via and Piazza Carlo Felice , Piazza Nuova and thence by the Cattedrale 8. Lorenzo (Strada Carlo Alberto) to the Harbour. The principal churches and other edifices are situated in this line of streets. No town can vie with Genoa in the number and magnificence of its pa- laces. Many of them were erected by Oaleazzo Alessi (a pupil of Michael Angelo, born at Perugia 1500, d. 1572), whose example was generally followed in the construction of subsequent palaces. Between these loftily situated streets and piazzas a complete labyrinth of narrow streets and lanes descend to the harbour, those adjacent to which are the most ancient. The unparalleled beauty of the situation and the interesting reminiscences of its ancient magnificence render a visit to Genoa very attractive. The stranger is recommended to proceed first to the church of *S. Maria di Carignano (PI. 8), erected about the middle of the 16th cent., situated on one of the highest points at the S.E. extremity of the city. The church itself, in the form of a cross , and handsomely paved with black and white marble, contains nothing remarkable. The great attraction is the *view from the highest gallery of the dome (ascended by commodious and well lighted staircases , 249 steps in all), extending over the city, harbour and fortifications, and W. and E. over the well populated coasts (W. the Riviera di Ponente , R. 15; E. the Riviera di Lev ante , R. 46), bounded on the E. by the picturesque promontory of S. Martino d J Albaro and stretching to Harbour. GENOA. 14. Route. 117 the S. over the vast blue expanse of the Mediterranean. In clear weather even the island of Corsica is said to he visible in the extreme distance. This is almost the only point which com- mands a comprehensive prospect of Genoa and the environs (sacristan 25 c., his attendance for the ascent is unnecessary). The Ponte Carignano , a bridge 90 ft. in height, by means of which the street crosses a lower quarter of the city, was formerly regarded as a marvel of architectural skill. The *Harbour (Porto) forms a semicircular bay, about 2 J / 2 M. in diameter, into which two substantial Piers of considerable length project. That on the E. is the Molo Vecchio , with the small, old lighthouse; on the W. the Molo Nuovo , adjoining which is the new lighthouse, or Lanterna , the dazzling reflectors of which are 488 ft. above the sea-level. The summit commands a fine view ; the arrangements of the interior may also be in- spected (fee V 2 fr.). On the N.E. side is the Royal War Har- bour ( Darsena Reale) with the Arsenal (Arsenale di Marina ), accessible by special permission only. It was here that Gian Luigi de’ Fieschi was accidentally drowned in 1547, when he with the other conspirators against Andrea Doria had taken pos- session of the harbour. The Dogana is established in the buil- ding of the Banco di 8. Giorgio , an establishment, founded in 1346, but suppressed during the French Revolution. The large hall contains two series of statues of Genoese celebrities, some of them of the 15th cent. On the E. side is the Free Harbour (Porto Franco), where numerous vessels lie at anchor. The quay is connected by rails with the railway station. A lofty wall with arcades separates the harbour from the houses (most of them six stories in height), of the long Via Carlo Alberto and the Piazza di Scaricamento, in which almost all the hotels are situated. These arcades are the favourite haunt of the red-capped denizens of the harbour, the sailors and boatmen, the porters, valets-de-place etc. The best point for surveying the scene which here presents itself is the Gran Terrazzo Marmoreo (ascended at the N. extremity), the marble platform of these arcades, V 3 M. in length and 20 paces in width. This terrace affords a most agreeable *walk in the early morning, but later in the day it is exposed to the sun. The stranger, as he approaches the arcades, is immediately assailed 118 Route 14. GENOA. 8. Lorenzo. by the boatmen with offers of their services (boat for 2—4 pers. with one rower 2 fr. per hour). The finest view of the city from the harbour is about % M. from the coast. — A cannon fired in summer at 9 (in winter at 8) p. m. is a signal for all the sailors to repair to their vessels. Genoa possesses 82 Churches, of which a few only need be mentioned: * s - Lorenzo (PL 4), or the Cathedral, erected in 1100, is in the form of a cross, with dome and rounded vaulting. The nave is separated from the aisles by 20 Corinthian columns, above which rises another series of columns. The fagade is constructed of alternate layers of black and white marble. The Portal is supported by figures of lions. The church was partially remo- delled in 1422 and recently again altered, so that it now exhi- bits features of three architectural epochs, the Romanesque, the Lombard-Gothic and the Renaissance. The gallery of the Choir is richly gilded. The martyrdom of the saint is represented over the portal and in several other places. The reliefs of the fagade were originally tombstones. — A short distance' hence, adjoining the Piazza di Scaricamento , is the Exchange (Borsa), erected in the 16th. cent., with a statue of Cavour by Vine. Yela. In the Piazza Nuova, somewhat higher is situated S. Ambrogio (PL 7), a Jesuit church with dome, sumptuously decorated with marble mosaics, gilding and ceiling-paintings. The high altar- piece (Circumcision) is by Rubens ; the chapel of the Yirgin (3rd on the r.) contains an Assumption by Quido Reni. Adjoining the latter is the handsome Palazzo Ducale (PL 13) now the Town Hall , constructed entirely of white marble. In the niches above are placed allegorical warlike figures, and eight statues of the Doges, who formerly resided here. The palace has been entirely modernized since a conflagration in 1777. The Telegraph Office is now in this edifice. Farther N., in the street to the 1. of the Piazza Carlo Felice, is situated S. Matteo, a small church erected by the Dorias in 1278, containing numerous mementoes of that illustrious house. The fagade is completely covered with inscriptions dedicated to members of the family, and great numbers of their epitaphs, and a few mutilated statues, are preserved by being built into the walls of the interesting cloisters. The small palace in the corner Palazzo Brignole. GENOA. 14. Route. 119 opposite, with four stories, covered with Mack and yellow marble, bears the inscription: “Senat. Cons. Andreae de Oria, patriae liberatori munus publicum" ; i. e. the edifice was a gift to Andrea Doria from the senate. In the spacious Piazza Carlo Felice the extensive Teatro Carlo Felice (PI. 18), erected in 1827, is situated. Adjacent to it is the Accademia delle Belle Arti (PI. 1), containing a small collection of pictures and a library. The latter, which comprises numerous modern works, is accessible daily. In the vicinity, Via Carlo Felice Z2, is the *Palazzo Palla- dia! (PI. 17), several rooms in which contain good pictures /fee 1 fr.). Lucas of Leyden , The Virgin, a picture with wings, and an Entombment •, A Burer , Repose during the flight to Egypt-, Schidone, Madonna; Mens, Peter's escape from prison; Guercino: , St. Francis m presence of the Saviour; Van Dyck, a large family picture supposed to represent James I of England, his wife and children; Guercino , Mucins Sceevola; Lucas of Leyden , Descent from the Gross; An. Caracal , Magdalene (on copper); Van Dyck , Portrait. . Permission is also obtained her'e (r. on the ground-floor), on presenting a visiting-card (personally or through a valet-de- place), to visit the Villa Pallavicini (p. 122) ; the number of the party must be stated. Not far distant hence, Strada Nuova 18, is the *Palazzo Brignole {Palazzo Rosso, so called from its red facade, PI. 16), sumptuously fitted up, containing the most extensive gallery in Genoa (fee 1 fr.) : 1st Room, “Sala delle Arti Liberali” : nothing of importance. — •2nd R “Sala della Vita Umana” : Van Dyck, Two fine family-portraits; F. Veronese , Portraits.- 3rd. R„ “Sala dell' Inverno” : Portraits by Bordone, Rubens and Holbein ; L. da Vinci (or LuiniT), John the Baptist; Van Dyck, The tribute-money. - 4th R. , “Sala d'Autunno” : Portraits by Giorgione and Tintoretto; Bonifazio, Adoration of the Magi; Guercino, Madonna with John the Baptist, SS. John and Bartholomew; A. del Sarto, Madonna. — 5th R , “Sala d'Estate” : Lanfranco, Bearing of the Cross; P. Veronese, Sketch for the Adoration of the Shepherds ; Lucas of Leyden , Portrait, and St Jerome. — 6th R., “Sala della Primavera” : * Van Dyck, Three portraits, the Prince’ of Orange, Antonio Brignole on horseback, and a Marchesa Brignole; other portraits by Gaetani , Tintoretto, Moretto, Titian, P. Bordone , Francia and Giov. Bellini ; Bearing of the Cross, by Van Dyck. — 7th R., “Sala della Grioventu”: Rubens, Satyr. — 8th R., “Sala grande”, adorned with family-portraits. Opposite to the palace is the Cafe Concordia (p. 114). Ad- jacent to it is the Municipio, or Town Hall, erected by the Dorias, with the chief guard-house of the municipal guard, 120 Route 13. GENOA. Palazzo Balbi. containing a few pictures, reminiscences of Columbus, a large ancient bronze-tablet of the year B. C. 187, recording the decision pronounced by Roman commissaries in a dispute between Genoa and a neighbouring fort, etc. In a small Piazza at the extremity of the Via Nuova and Via Nuovissima stands the Capuchin church of *S. Annunziata, erected in 1487, possessing a portal with marble columns, but with an unfinished and unsightly brick facade. In the interior this is the most sumptuous church in Genoa. The nave and aisles are supported by twelve columns of white marble inlaid with red. The vaulting and dome are richly decorated with gilding and painting. In the broad and handsome Strada Balbi, which leads hence to the station, next to the Annunziata, is -situated the Palazzo « Marcello Durazzo (or della Scala ) on the r. (No. 1} , with a handsome marble staircase. It was erected by the Balbi and contains a small picture-gallery. Opposite to the latter is the Palazzo Balbi, erected at the commencement of the 17th cent., possessing a handsome court with columns. The upper story contains a picture-gallery (fee 1 fr.) : 1st Room.: Van Dyck, Equestrian figure; Bernardino Strozzi, Joseph interpreting the dream. — 2nd R. : Van Dyclc, Madonna; Michael Angelo (?) Christ on the Mt. of Olives; Titian, Madonna with SS. Catharine and Do- minions. - 3rd R.: Van Dyck, Two family-portraits (the head of the equestrian figure is said to be a portrait of Philip II., painted by Velasquez m order to save the picture from destruction, over that of Balbi, who had meanwhile been banished.) — 4 th R. : Caravaggio , Conversion of St. Paul. — 5th R. : Bassano, Fair. — 6th R., a long gallery containing numerous small pictures: Titian, Portrait of himself ; Spagnoletto, Philosopher and Mathematician; Memling, Crucifixion; Breughel, Temptation of St. Antony. Farther on, to the r., is the University (PI. 22), with hand- some staircase (the university itself was founded in 1812) established in a palace also erected by the Balbi family. It contains a library, natural history museum, a small botanical garden and a few bronzes by Giovanni da Bologna. On the L is the Royal Palace ( Palazzo Reale, PJ. 12), erected by the Durazzo family (accessible daily in absence of the royal family). Ihe interior is richly fitted up, but the antiquities and pictures are of no great value, the finest objects in the collection having been removed to Turin. In an open space, farther on, rises the Statue of Columbus, who was born at Cogoleto (p. 124) in Palazzo Doria. GENOA. 13. Route. 121 1447. The monument, erected on July 14th, 1862, the anniversary of the great navigator’s return , stands on a pedestal adorned with ships’ prows. At the feet of the statue, which rests on an anchor, kneels the figure of America. The monument, which consists entirely of white marble, is surrounded by allegorical figures in a sitting posture, representing Religion, Geography, Force and Wisdom. Between these are reliefs of scenes from the history of Columbus, with the inscription of dedication. Opposite to the monument is situated the Palace of Columbus , with the inscription: “Cristoforo Colombo Genovese scopre V America” i A niche on a house (the 5th to the N. from the commencement of the street of the harbour, p. 117) contains a small statue of Columbus, with the inscription: “ Dissi , volli , credi , ecco un secondo sorger nuovo dalU onde ignote mondo” . To the W. of the railway-station is situated the *Palazzo del Principe Doria (PI. 15) (p. 118) remodelled by Andrea Doria (well known from Schiller’s “Fiesco”), the “ padre della patria” (d. 1560, at the age of 95), as the long Latin inscription in front of the edifice records. Ariosto says of this: illustrious prince in his poems: “Questo e quel Doria, che fa dai pirati sicuro il vostro mar per tutti i lati.” The palace was presented to him in 1522, and the restoration conducted by Montorsoli. It was decorated with frescoes by Pierino del Vaga, a pupil of Raphael, and renovated in 1845. Visitors are conducted through the great entrance-hall, a corridor hung with portraits of the Doria family and a saloon with a large ceiling-painting representing Jupiter overthrowing the giants. The latter also contains a portrait of the aged prince (who was admiral of the fleets of the Pope, of Emp. Charles V. and of Francis of France, as well as of that of Genoa) with his favourite cat. The elder branch of the Doria family, to whom the palace now belongs, generally resides at Rome. — The garden of the palace, extending towards the harbour, contains remarkably fine orange-trees. At the extremity, towards the sea, rises an extensive Loggia with arcades. The gardens on the hill opposite, with a statue of Hercules (“II Gig ante 77 ) in a niche, also appertain to the estate. They command a fine survey of the harbour. Palazzo Spinola , Strada Nuova 44, formerly Grimaldi, con- taining some good pictures, and another Palazzo Spinola (Giov. 122 Route 14. GENOA. Villa Pallavicini. Battista), in the Piazza Fontane Morose, as well as several other of the palaces of the Genoese nobility, which are remarkable nither for their architecture or their collections, may also be visited by those who have leisure. The most favourite promenade is the small park (Giardino Pubhlico) of *Acqua Sola, adorned with a fountain, situated on an eminence at the N.E. extremity of the city (approached most conveniently from the Piazza della Posta, by the street ascending opposite the post-office). The Caffe, dell ' Italia , with a pleasant garden , and well fitted up , is a popular resort here. During the military concerts on Sunday afternoons the grounds are crow- ded. Pleasing views to the E. and S., especially over the open sea. In the vicinity (1. of the entrance) is the Villa Negro (PL 23), the property of the city, commanding a beautiful view. The most delightful excursion in the environs is to the **Villa Pallavicini (admission seep. 119), at Pegli, 7^2 M- W. of Genoa, a station on the Genoa and Nice Railway (which is completed as far as Voltri), reached in 35 min. Pegli (Hotels: Gargini; Bagni di Pegli , on the coast; * Restaurant Michel , opposite the station) is immediately opposite to the entrance of the villa (accessible 10 — 5 o’clock). One of the gardeners (fee 2 fr. for 1 pers., more for a party) of the Marchese conducts visitors through the grounds and the park, the inspection of which occupies 2 hrs. at least. They extend to a considerable height on the slopes rising from the coast and display the richest luxuriance of southern vegetation. Cedars, magnolias, magnificent oleanders, azalias, camellias etc. here flourish in the open air. Several points of view afford the most charming prospects of Genoa, the sea, coast and mountains. The highest of these points is occu- pied by a building in the mediaeval style with a tower, whence an extensive and magnificent panorama is enjoyed. The other attractions are the Mausoleum, the remains of an ancient Roman burial-place, a stalactite grotto (with a subterranean piece of water, nver which visitors are conveyed by a boat; fee */ 2 fr.), beneath the bridge a striking glimpse of Genoa and the sea; a mosque, Chinese and Roman temple, obelisk, fountains etc. may also be inspected. The gardens also contain a few examples of the coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, pepper, sugar-cane, camphor and other plants, which will interest the visitor. 123 15. Erom Genoa to Nice by the Riviera di Ponente, 95 M. S tearnb o at (French Co. Fraissinet , office in the Piazza Bianchi) in 8— lOhrs., on Mond. and Frid.at 8p.m. ; fares 271/2 orl7l/2 fr - Als o (Italian Co. Peirano d'Annovaro) on Mond. Wed. and Frid. at 8 p. m., returning from Nice on Tuesd., Thursd. and Sat. at 9 a. m.; fares, incl. dinner, 32ty 2 or ■221/2 fr. — The Journey by Land on the charming Riviera di Ponente and the celebrated Strada della Cornice is far preferable. French dili- gences (Messageries Imperiales, office in the Piazza delP Anil un- ziata) run twice daily (8 a. m. and 9 p. m.) in 22—24 hrs. ; coupe 40, interieur 34, banquette (affording the best views, seats somewhat confined) 30, rotonde 25 fr. An additional payment of half the fare entitles the passenger to pass the night at Oneglia and continue his journey on the following day, an arrangement strongly recommended. Travellers from Nice to Genoa, however, will generally find an opportunity at Oneglia of prosecuting their journey without having previously secured a seat in the diligence; for a party of 2-3 pers. a private conveyance as far as Voltn is recommended. The railway will soon be opened as far as Savona, which will greatly simplify this journey. — A hired carriage (comp, pp. 114, 131) performs the journey in 3—31/2 days. As long as the railway Is not open beyond Voltri (comp. 122), where carriages are not. always to be met with, a vehicle should be engaged at Genoa for the entire route, which (incl. the return journey) is reckoned as a journey of 6—7 days, /at 20 fr. per day (for 2—3 pers.). Vetturini are to be met with in the Piazza dell 1 Annunziata (p. 120) , and travellers are recommended not to .negotiate with the commissionnaires of the hotels. The journey by hired ■carriage is divided as follows : In 31/2 days : 1st day to Savona 51/2 hrs. drive 2nd — — Oneglia 3rd — — Mentone 4th — — Nice In 3 days : 1st day to Finale 8 hrs. drive 2nd — — S. Remo 8 V 4 — — 3rd — — Nice 8 — — 04 I /4 hrs. drive 73/4 - - 71/4 - - 33/4 — — 241/2 hrs. drive In the reverse direction an omnibus runs daily from Nice at 8. 30 a. m. (Place St. Dominique, Maison Dalmas) to Mentone (coupe 4 fr.) arriving soon after 12. Diligence thence at 9 a. m. to Oneglia (arr. 7 p. m.), on the following morning from Oneglia to Genoa (arr. before 6 p. m). This journey is extremely attractive. The road affords the most de- lightful succession of charming and varied landscapes, traversing bold and lofty promontories, wooded hills and richly cultivated plains near the coast. At some places the road passes precipitous and frowning cliffs, the bases of which are lashed by the surf of the Mediterranean, whilst the .summits are crowned with the venerable ruins of towers, erected in bygone Ages for protection against pirates. At other places extensive plantations of olives, with their grotesque and gnarled stems, bright green pine-forests and most luxuriant growths of figs, vines, citrons, oranges, oleanders, myrtles and aloes meet the view. Numerous palms too occassionally diversify the landscape (at S. Remo and Bordighera). Many of the towns are picturesquely situated on gently sloping heights (Porto MaunziOi S. Remo, Bordighera, Ventimiglia) others, surmounted by ancient strong- 124 Route 15. SAYONA. From Genoa holds and castles, are perched like nests among the rocks (Roccabruna^ Eza). Small churches and chapels, peering from the_ sombre foliage of cypresses, and gigantic grey pinnacles of rock, rising proudly above the smiling plains, frequently enhance the charms of this exquisite scenery. Finally, the vast expanse of the sea itself, with its ever varying hues, con- stitutes one of the principal attractions. At onetime it is observed bathed in a flood of sunshine, at another its beautiful blue colour arrests the eye; immediately beneath the spectator, roaring breakers are frequently visible, whilst farther off the snowy crests of the waves are gradually lost to view in the purple distance. — The road is narrow, but intolerable repair. The French portion between Mentone and Nice is the best. The inns are generally good, but exorbitant charges are occasionally made if no preliminary enquiry is made. Railway from Genoa to Nice in course of construction, open as far as Yoltri, nearly completed as far as Savona. In connection with this line a branch-line from Turin by Carmagnola to Savona is projected, from which another branch will run from Cairo’ to Acqui (Alessandria, Milan). Railway as far as Voltri. Villa Pallavicini at Pegli see p. 122. Arenzana is a village on the coast; above it are situated villas in the midst of cypresses, oleanders etc. From the height which the road next ascends a beautiful retrospect of Arenzana, Genoa and the coast as far as Capo Portofino (E. of Genoa) is enjoyed. Large aloe-plants are observed on the road-side. Cogoleto is said to have been the birthplace of Columbus (p. 120). A poor ta- vern here bears the inscription: Hospes , siste gradum. Fait hie lux prima Columbo; Orbe viro majori heu nimis arcta domus ! JJnus erat mundus. “ Duo sunt ”, ait ille. Fuere. Varazze, or Voragine, a village on the coast, is an important ship- building place. On both sides of it the coast is abrupt and rocky. The huge cliffs consist principally of conglomerate. The streets in all the villages are extremely narrow, hut usually well paved. A number of brooks, generally dry, are crossed. The narrowest and worst part of the road is near Savona. Thus far the railway is nearly completed and will shortly he opened. 1972 M. Savona ( *Albergo Reale, R. 2 i / 2 , L. 7a> B. 1., 1). 372r A. 1 fr., without the town ; *Albergo Svizzero, in the Piazza del Teatro), the most important town (18,960 inhab.) on the route r was capital of the Department Montenotte under Napoleon I. The cathedral contains several good pictures; so also the former church of the Dominicans, especially an Adoration of the Magi by Purer. The handsome theatre, erected in 1853, near which the diligence halts, is dedicated to the poet Chiabrera , who was to Nice. FINALE. 15. Route. 125 ;a native of this place. In front are the statues of Metastasio and. Rossini above, and of Goldoni and Alfieri below. The pe- diment contains a large group in marble. On one of the har- bour-towers is a statue of the Virgin, with the inscription: In mare irato, in subita procella , Invoco te, nostra benigna stella ! Pius VII. was once confined here for a considerable period. The rocky road on the coast now traverses the Bergeggi pass; in the sea rises the island of that name with a ruined castle. The promontory is here penetrated by a railway-tunnel. Several churches surrounded with cypresses are passed. The lower hills are clothed with olive -plantations, from which ruined castles occasionally peep; higher up are pine -forests. Noli is a small town completely environed with olive- groves. Above it rise the ruins of a castle, overtopped by grey mountains in the back- ground. To the r. beyond Noli is another railway -tunnel. The road ascends the bald and precipitous cliffs of a promontory {magnificent retrospect) and passes through a tunnel. The next promontory is left on the 1., and the road leads inland over a height, beyond which a new bay of the coast comes into view. Another tunnel, above which a tower rises, is now traversed. 9 M. Finale (Grand Hotel de Venise, in the middle of the town) is a small town with a castle and a cathedral of some pre- tension. The road then passes through a third tunnel, above -which a tower also rises. In the distance the Isola Gallinara {island of fowls). Ceriale is the next village. Albenga , an ancient town, was the Roman Albigaunum. Con siderable remnants of a Roman bridge are seen close to the road, about V 4 M. from the town. Several lofty towers here appertain to ancient residences of noble families. The cathedral possesses an elegant tower and facade. All the buildings are constructed of brick. The road next passes opposite to the Isola Gallinara , a rocky islet surmounted by a tower and rising abruptly from the sea, then ascends to a considerable height above the sea .and descends to Alassio (Hotel de la Belle Italie, formerly termed “de la Halle”, from a lofty and gaudily decorated hall it contains), with a long and narrow street, where two carriages have difficulty in passing. Then Lagueglia , whence the retrospect is charming, 126 Route 15. S. REMO. From Genoa beyond which the road passes the frowning and barren Capo> della Croce , with a lighthouse, and the Capo delle Mele. Cervo and Diano Marino , picturesquely situated on the slopes*, are next reached. THano Castello lies farther inland. Extensive olive-plantations are here traversed. Magnificent retrospect as the road aseends the next promon- tory. As it descends, Porto Maurizio and Oneglia come in view. 23 M. Oneglia (*Hotel Yictoria, enquiry as to charges re- commended), a small seaport with 6440 inhab. , is most beauti- fully situated. Beyond it the broad, stony channel of ,a moun- tain - torrent is crossed by a suspension-bridge. Porto Maurizio 7 through which the road next leads, is a naval station and har- bour of some importance, very picturesquely situated on an eminence on the coast, surrounded hy dense groves of olives* ‘‘Saracen-towers” (i. e. erected for protection against these ma- rauders) rise picturesquely on the coast near the villages of 8. Lorenzo (with conspicuous campanile), S. Stefano (where horses- are changed) and Taggia. Farther on, by a country-house on the hill to the r. are two remarkably fine palms. 1 3 1 / 2 M. S. Remo ( Hotel de la Palme ; Hotel de Londres r beautifully situated without the town ; Hotel d' Angleterre, pension in both the latter), like Mentone, is rapidly- rising into repute as a winter residence, from its salubrious climate and sheltered situation. English Clergyman and English Physician. On the coast rises a fort. The loftier and older portion of the town (9341 in- hab.) consists of a remarkable labyrinth of narrow flights of steps, archways, gloomy old houses and dilapidated walls. The avenue of cypresses, however, on the hill above, leading to a white church surmounted by a dome and adorned with modern frescoes, is a charming point and commands a magnificent view. The road passes several plantations of palms, then skirts the Capo Nero at a considerable height above the sea. Below the road the railway works are rapidly progressing. Bordighera (Hotel d’ Angleterre), surrounded with palms and situated on a hill pro- jecting into the. sea., next comes in sight. The palm which flou- rishes at so many places on this coast is a dwarf variety (cha- maerops humilisj. It generally grows in groups and is most stunted when these are most dense. to Nice. MENTONE. 15. Route. 127 A family here named Bresca is said to' have obtained from Pope Pius V. in 1588 the privilege of sending a vessel annually to Rome laden with palms, for the decoration of the churches there on Palm Sunday. This was a reward for a service rendered by an ancestor of the family. When the pope was superintending the erection hv Domenico Fontana of the great obelisk of the Circus of Nero in the Piazza of St. Peter at Rome, an operation accomplished by means of 40 windlasses worked by 800 men and 140 horses, a sudden and most critical stoppage took place. The sailor Bresca , notwithstanding the severe penalties with which persona breaking the silence were threatened, shouted: “Water on the ropes!” His suggestion was acted upon, and the work successfully completed in consequence. The loftier part of the town is traversed, and several palm- plantations are passed. Aloe-plants are here employed as hedges for the fields. The road crosses the broad, stony bed of the Roja by a bridge of eleven arches and reaches Ventimiglia (hor- ses changed), a considerable place, very picturesquely situated on a hill and commanded by fortifications, being now the Italian frontier fortress. A rock rising on the 1. from the sea below resembles a tower. The road leaves the town to the r. and as- cends through a fort (with Italian garrison). Another fort stands on a rocky eminence still higher. An extensive view of the French coast is here obtained. Next village Latte. Then another ascent to Mortala. Retrospect of Ventimiglia and Bordighera. The road ascends still higher and passes a venerable grove of olives. Near a wild, rocky ravine the Italian Dogana is passed. Grimaldi lies to the r. on the height above. From the highest point a view of Mentone is obtained. The road descends past a number of charming country-residences with citron and orange gardens. The vegetation presents all the luxuriance peculiar to the Italian climate. The French frontier is at the bridge over the profound and wild rocky gorge. 131/2 M. Mentone, French Menton. Hotels and Pensions. In the E. Bay , towards the Italian frontier : *Grande Bretagne, pension 7 — 10 fr. ; *Grand Hotel de la Paix, expensive, pension 12—15 fr. ; *Hotel et Pension Anglaise, well fitted up; *Iles Britanniques, with garden, attendance good. Also Pension d’ltalie and Pension All emande, 7—9 fr. All these hou- ses are beautifully situated on the coast. — In the W. Bay: Hotel de la Me dit err an e e , expensive; *Victoria; Londres; *Turin, pleasant rooms facing the sea, R.. 3,. L. l/ 2 , A. 1, B. ll/ 2 , D. 4 fr. ; *Hotel et Pen- sion du Midi; *Louvre, farther from the sea, sheltered from the wind ; Pavilion. Also: *Villa Germania ofDr. Genzmer; Tension Hem- mi elmann; Pension des Etrangers;*PensionCamous; Pension 128 Route 15. MENTONE. From Genoa Suedoise. Besides these, numerous other hotels and pensions are ra- pidly springing up, to meet the increasing demand for accommodation. Pen- sion generally 9 — 15 fr. per day, according to situation and requirements. — In the town: Hotel d’Angleterre, high and arbitrary charges. In both hays there is also a great number of charmingly situated and occasionally very handsomely furnished villas, a list of which may he obtained of the agent Willoughby. The rents vary from 1000 to 7000 fr. for the season. Private apartments for the season, from 400 fr. upwards, are also to he had. The tenants of these villas or private apartments have their own menage, or dine at an hotel or restaurant. — The Cercle Phil- harmonique contains a reading-roojn, and balls and concerts are frequently given ; subscription 60 fr. for the season, ladies 48 fr. ; per month 15 fr., ladies 12 fr. Physicians. Dr. Bennet and Dr. Siordet , English ; Dr. Bottini and Dr. Farina , Italian-, Dr. Stiege , Dr. Genzmer , Dr. Duhrsen and Dr. Frank , German. — Chemist: Grass , who makes up Engl, and Germ, prescriptions Poste aux Lettres, opposite the Hotel Victoria. Letters for England and Germany must be posted before 4 p. m. Restaurants. Hotel de Paris; London Tavern (good Engl, and Bavar. beer); Cafe de Paris etc. Bankers: Palmaro, BiOves and Co. — Bookseller: Giordan. Omnibus to Monaco ( 6 I /2 M.) and back twice daily (in 1 hr.), fare II/2 fr - Steamboat from Monaco to Nice see p. 131. The Railway will be opened shortly. Carriages. One-horse 10 fr. per day, 6 fr. for half a day; two-horse 15 fr. per day, 10 fr. for half a day. — Donkeys 5 fr. per day, 21/2 fr- for half a day, and gratuity. English Church Service during the season. Mentone , the French frontier-town (5000 inhab.), is char- mingly situated in a bay of the Riviera di Ponente, shaded by citron and orange groves, hut without a harbour. A vast wall of rock shelters it from the cold winds and renders it a still more favourable winter residence for delicate persons than Nice itself. The mean temperature in winter is about 60° Fahr., i. e. several degrees higher than at Niee, and frost, especially during the day, is of rare occurrence (towards noon, however, a pene- trating wind frequently prevails). Mentone (like Roccabruna, p. 129) formerly belonged to the principality of Monaco, was in- corporated with the Kingdom of Sardinia in 1849, and since 1860 has been French. Strangers quitting Mentone are occasionally asked for their passports. Pleasant excursion from Mentone (comp. Map p. 134) by (16 M.) Castel- lar to the summit of the Berceau (3 — 4 hrs.). Magnificent prospect, em- bracing the mountains of the coast, the vast blue expanse of the Medi- terranean, and Corsica in the distance. to Nice. MONACO. 14. Route. 129 The portion of the road beyond Mentone is perhaps the most interesting. It ascends through the richest vegetation. Delight- ful retrospect of Mentone and the coast of Bordighera; then a view of Monaco, situated on a hill abutting on the sea. Farther up, Roccabruna (whence a road leads to Monaco) appears on the r., high above the richest groves of orange and olive trees. A picturesque ruin rises above the village. Quaint masses of rock protrude among the houses and ruins of the castle. Still higher up, the road crosses profoundly furrowed gorges and enters a bleak and barren rocky region. Far below lies the diminutive principality of Monaco, with its capital of that name on a projecting rock ( Cercle des Etrangers, gambling-table, gardens, baths etc.). The next place of importance is Turbia, with a colossal Ro- man tower, a fragment of the Tropaea Augusti (whence the modern name), erected in commemoration of the subjugation of the LigUrian tribes (A. U. C. 766, i. e. A. D. 13). The “Tro- phies of Augustus 77 consist of a lofty substructure, formed of alternate perpendicular sections of massive blocks and ordinary masonry, and surmounted by the remains of the tower, which has recently been partially repaired. Another most beautiful prospect is here enjoyed : E. the wild mountains and the entire coast to Ventimiglia and Bordighera, W. (best viewed by as- cending a few paces beyond the tower) the expanse of the Me- diterranean, the French coast near Antibes, the island of Ste. Marguerite and in the extreme distance the mountains of the coast, of which the Montagnes de l’Esterel are most prominent. The culminating point of the road, in the midst of bleak rocky scenery, is reached about 2/4 M. beyond Turbia. On the 1. an isolated rock, with a few picturesque old houses and a white church with slender campanile, and crowned by quaint, Moorish looking ruins, rises so precipitously from the low ground beneath the road as to appear altogether inaccessible. This is Eza . once a stronghold of the Saracens, who maintained themselves here for a considerable period and laid the adjoining land under heavy con- tributions; it was probably afterwards employed as a refuge by the natives of the district when attacked by corsairs. This again is a strikingly picturesque point of view: in the foreground rises the rocky castle, below it the beautiful coast, the richly wooded peninsula Baedeker. Italy I. 9 130 Route 15. NICE. of St. Hospice (p. 136) with its harbour, then Beaulieu (p. 136); glimpses are also obtained of the charmingly situated Villafranca, where a new French harbour of war is in course of construction, of the bay, the Fort Montalban, the Promenade des Anglais and the entire town of Nice. Farther on, as the road descends, a view is disclosed of the entire valley of Nice, with its villas, monasteries, villages and green hills (r. , on the opposite side, is Cimite, with its burial- ground, and St. Rons [, see p. 135), encircled in the distance by a succession of mountains gradually increasing in height, and intersected by the broad, dry and stony bed of the Paglione (p. 132). 6 IV 2 M. Nice, see below. 16. Nice (Ital. Nizza) and its Environs. .Comp, Map , p. 134:. Hotels. Chauvain, Quai St. Jean Baptiste *, *Hotel de France, Quai Massena, R. 3, L. 1, B. 11/2? 5, A. 1 fr.; Grande Bretagne, Jardin Public, *Hotel Victoria, *Me diterr ane e and *Des Anglais in the Promenade des Anglais, admirably situated. — *Hotel des Etrangers, Rue du PontNeuf, R. 21/2, D. 4 fr. ; Hotel de 1’ Uni vers’, Place St. Do- minique , R. andL. 3, D. 3, A. 1/2 fr- ’■> these two are much frequented by passing travellers. — ^Pension Suisse, Rue des Ponchettes, sheltered, R. 21/2, B. II/4, D. 31 / 2 , L. and A. 1 fr., pension 6—10 fr , omnibus to the station 1 i/ 2 fr. ; *H6.tel des Princes, in the same street ; Angleterre, Jardin Public, R. 3, B. ll/ 2 , D. 4, L. 1, A. 1 fr. ; Paradis, Quai du Midi; Europe, Rue de France; Nord, Place des Phoceens. — In the new quarter of the town, at some distance from the sea: Hotel du Louvre, Rue Grimaldi; Deux Mondes, Place Massena ; Ho tel Royal, beyond the harbour ; Hotel de Nice, Boulevard Carabacel, well situated, with large garden; Hotel de Paris; Prince of Wale's. Pensions. *Milliet, Route Etienne, at some distance from the sea; Russe, Rue Chauvain; *Suisse, see above; D’Allemagne, Rue du Temple; Rivois and Anglaise in the Promenade des Anglais; Cara- bacel, in the Boulevard of that name; Smithers and Orangerie at Cimies. The usual charges at most of these establishments are 7—10 fr. per day. Restaurants etc. *Augier, at the Cafe Victoria, Place Massena; Polonais and Seal a, Rue Grimaldi; F r e r e s P r o v e n c a u x and ♦Leonard, Rue St. Francois de Paule.— Cafis: ^Imperial and Amdri- cain, in the Corso ; Victoria and Des Alp es, in the Place Massena. Best ices at Rumpelmeier’s, Place Etienne. Preserved fruits sold by Musso, Rue Pont Neuf, and Clerissy, Rue Cassini. Lyons and Stras- bourg beer may be procured at all the caf^s. Steamboat to Genoa (p. 113): Ital. mail - steamers 3 times weekly at 9 a m. in 9 — 10 hrs. ; fares, incl. dinner, 321/2 an( i 221/2 fr. ; to Marseilles D arms t a dt,E iWagner. NICE. 16. Route. 131 (p. 27) in 15 hrs. (31 or 21 fr.) on Mond. and Frid. at 6 p. m.; to Monaco several times daily, fare 2 fr. $ thence an omnibus runs twice daily to Mentone, 2 fr. Diligences. Messageries Imperiales (office in the Place Charles Albert) to Genoa at 8 a. m. and 9 p. m. Those who desire to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Riviera di Ponente are entitled by an additional payment of half-a-fare to break their journey at Oneglia, where they may spend the night and resume their journey on the following morning (comp. p. 125). Diligence (office in the Boulevard du Pont Neuf) to Mentone at 7 a. m. and 3 p. m. in 31/2 hrs -'» fa re 4 fr - Horses may be hired OfNigio,Clerissy, Mouton (the two latter in the Quai St. Jean Baptiste) for 6—10 fr. for a ride of 3—4 hrs. In winter a horse may be hired by the month for 250 350 fr., in summer for less. Fiacres are stationed in the Place Charles Albert, Place Massena, Boule- vard du Pont Vieuxetc.— One-horse: per drive 75 c. (1 fr. 25 c. at night) ; for 1 hr. 2 , fr. 10 c. (2 fr. 60 c. at night), each succeeding l / 2 hr. 80 c. (1 fr. 30 c. at night). Carriages with two seats only at somewhat lower rates. Two-horse: per drive 1 fr. (at night H /2 fr.) ; for 1 hr. 2 fr. 60 c. (at night 3 fr. 10 c.) , each succeeding 1/2 ^ r - 1 4 ^ c - night t fr* 35 c ) __ To Villafranca and back one horse carr. with 2 seats 4, with 4 seats 5 , two-horse 6 fr. •, charges for a prolonged stay according to ta- riff. No fees. Vetturini. *Piana, *Camini, Sardine, Yigon, Drogoul, *Lou- pias etc., of whom comfortable travelling carriages with 6—8 seats may be hired. To Genoa (p. .123) in 3— 31/2 days with 4 horses 350—400, with 2 horses 250 — 300 fr. , less in summer. A written contract should be made. Return-vehicles may be obtained for one-half of these charges, or even less. Donkeys are let by Berm on dy, Auda, Reale, Natarelli and others, 3 — 4 fr. per day and 1 fr. for the attendant; half-day 11 / 2—2 fr. Reading Room. Visconti, Rue du Cours, with garden. Post Office, Place Napoleon, 8 a. m. to 7 p. m. ; Sund. 8—10, 3—7 only. Railway from Nice to, Toulon and Marseilles see pp. 35—31; to Genoa (p. 113) by the Riviera di Ponente, to be opened as far as Monaco during the present spring (1868). Physicians. Dr. Edwin Lee, during the season; Drs. Travis, Gurney, Crothers, Crossby, Drummond, Ziircher, Lippert, Rehberg, Seligmann, Zimmermann etc.; Dr. Jansen, homoeo- path. — Chemist : Daniel, Quai Massena. English Church in the Rue de France, service also at Carabacel. Scotch Church , Rue Massena 5. Sea Baths opposite the Promenade des Anglais, 40 c. to 1 fr. House Agents. Samaritani, Latte, Dalgoutte. The lessor of apartments pays a percentage of 10 to 20 per cent, of the rent to the agents, without whose intervention the rents are therefore lower. Strangers arriving at Nice early in the season (before Oct.) will observe abundance of notices and advertisements, and can easily prosecute their enquiries 9 * 132 Route 15. NICE. Climate. unaided. The drivers of the fiacres also can generally give information respecting apartments still disengaged. The rent of course depends upon situation, furniture etc. A whole house in the Promenade des Anglais or the Quartier Carabacel realises a rent of 2000 — 6000 fr. or more for the season (Oct. 1st to April 30th). The Quartiers St. Philippe, St. Etienne, Brancolar etc. are also pleasant, but less fashionable, rents somewhat lower. Apartments for one person may be procured for 250— 700 fr. for the season. The hirer is recommended not. to take possession until the contract (upon stamped paper) has been signed by both parties. This document should if possible contain stipulations with regard to every detail, e. g. damage done to furniture and linen, compensation for breakages etc. This will be found the best preventitive against the disputes which frequently arise on the termination of the contract. Climate. The hay of Nice is sheltered from the N., N.E. and N.W. winds by the lower terraces of the Alpes Maritimes (culminating in Mont Chauve , Ital. Monte Calvo , 2672 ft.), a natural barrier to which it owes its European reputation for mildness of climate. The mean winter temperature is 10—15° Fahr. higher than that of Paris, summer tempera- ture 5—10° lower. Frost is rare. The Mistral , or N.W. wind, the scourge of Provence, is seldom felt, being intercepted by the Montagnes du Var and de l’Esterel. The E. wind, however, which generally prevails in the spring, is trying to delicate persons. Sunset is a critical period. As the sun disappears, a sensation similar to that of a damp mantle being placed on the shoulders is experienced. This moisture, however, lasts 1—2 hrs. only. — Those who contemplate a brief visit only should avoid the rainy season, which usually commences about the beginning of October and lasts 5 — 6 weeks. Nice (48,273 inhab.), which is said to have been founded by Phocseans from Marseilles in the 5th cent., belonged to the County of Provence till 1388. then to the Duchy of Savoy. From 1792 to 1814 it was the capital of the French Department of the Alpes Maritimes, then that of the Sardinian Province of Nizza. Since 1860 it has again belonged to France and is the capital of the Department of Nice (the Italian frontier is now at Venti- miglia, p. 127). The language spoken by the natives is a mix- ture of Italian and the Provencal dialect. Nice is selected as a winter residence by thousands of invalids, as well as persons in robust health, from all parts of Europe, especially from England and Russia. Germans are also numerous. In summer the place is deserted. The town lies on the coast in an extensive bay opening to the S. The older part is situated on the 1. bank of the Paglione, the broad, stony channel of which is dry except after rain, and commanded by the ruins of a castle rising on a rock 300 ft. in height (p. 34), which was destroyed under Louis XIV. in 1706 by the Duke of Berwick. Jar din Public. NICE. 15. Route. 133 At the base of the castle-hill on the E. lies the small Har- bour, termed Limpia from an excellent spring (limpida) which rises near the E. pier. It is connected with the town by two long streets, leading from the Place de Bellevue opposite the harbour. One of these (Rue Emanuel Philibert , with its prolon- gation Rue Segurana) leads N. to the handsome Place Napoleon (formerly Place Victor ) and the quays of the Paglione ; the other skirts the abrupt promontory of Raubacapeu (“hat-robber”, owing to the prevalence of sudden gusts} and leads to the Quartier des Ponchettes. In the Place de Bellevue, by the harbour , stands the marble Statue of King Charles Felix , erected in 1830. The street in which Halevy , the celebrated composer of operas (“Jewess” etc.}, died in 1862, has received the appellation of “Rue Halevy” by order of Government. Garibaldi was born at Nice in 1807. The suburb of Croix de Marble, the quarter in which most of the strangers reside ('especially in the Place, Rue and Quai Massena), lies on the r. bank of the Paglione. At the mouth of the stream, on the r. bank, is the Jardin Public, opposite the Place des Phoceens (p. 132}, a large triangular space with houses on two sides and open on the third side to the sea and the river. In the centre is a small garden with a fountain, where a military band plays in winter, Thursdays and Sundays 2 — 4 p. m. ; in summer on Thursdays 6—8 p. m. and on Sundays in the Cours at the same hour. The Promenade des Anglais, founded in 1822 — 24 by English residents, extending 14/4 M. along the coast, from the mouth of the Paglione to the Pont de Magnan , is bordered with a succession of beautiful villas. It was prolonged in 1862, doubled in width, laid out in an improved style and lighted with gas. In the Rue de France, the street on the N. side , by the house No. 33 , is the Marble Cross whence the suburb derives its name. It was erected to commemorate the visit of Pope Paul III. in 1538, who here negotiated the armistice between Emp. Charles V. and Francis I. of France. The emperor and the king were both present on the occasion, but mutually entertained such sentiments of hostility that they could not be prevailed upon to meet. A column near the cross serves as a memorial of the two visits of Pope Pius VII. (in 1809 and 1814}. The churches ( Cathedral of the 17th cent, etc.) and . other buildings of Nice offer nothing to interest the traveller. The 134 Route 15. CIMELLA. Environs civic Library (40,000 vols.), Rue St, Francois de Paule, contains a few Roman milestones and other Relics and a cabinet of na- tural history. The *Castle Hill (p. 132), which is ascended from the Pont Neuf in 30 — 40 min. (accessible to carriages also, from the Place Napoleon or from the harbour), commands a beautiful and ex- tensive prospect, and is the best point for surveying the town itself: S. the Mediterranean; W. the French coast, the promon- tory of Antibes, the two lies de Lerins, the mouth of the Var (which till 1860 formed the boundary between France and Sar- dinia), beneath the spectator Nice, itself; N. the valley of the Paglione, the monasteries of Cimella, or Cimies, and St. Pons, in the distance the castle of St. Andre, Mont Chauve, the As- premont and the Alps ; E. the harbour, the mountains and Fort Montalban, and the promontory of Montboron which separates the roadsteads of Yiilafranca (p. 136) and Nice. A road round this promontory to Yiilafranca has recently been completed and pro- tected by fortifications. A delightful park, with cypresses, aloes etc. in great luxuriance, and even an avenue of palms, has been laid out on the very extensive slopes of the eastle-hill. The summit is occupied by a platform, erected in honour of the emperor, and commanding an uninterrupted prospect. The Cemeteries , with the exception of the English, are on the N. side of the castle-hill. The Franciscan monastery of Cimella (or Cimies ) is about 2V2 M. N. of Nice. The best, although not the most direct route thither is through the suburb of St. Jean Baptiste on the r. bank of the Paglione, then by the Yia di S. Bartolommeo, the first street to the 1. from the quay, and through the Quartier Cara- bacel , with its numerous villas. The monastery (not accessible to ladies) was re-erected in 1543 after its destruction by the Turks. It stands on the site of the Roman town of Cornelium , of which the remains of an Amphitheatre (210 ft. long, 175 ft. wide; termed by the peasantry u tina delle fate”, i. e. water-butt of the fairies), a square structure designated as a Temple of Apollo , and some fragments of baths and ancient masonry are still extant (near the Chapel of St. Anna, 5 min. walk from the monastery). The chapel contains two good pictures by Brea (on each side of the high altar), which are generally covered. View hence of Nice and the valley of the Paglione. ) a Toulon itfro } licia (' j "t, IVIZZA uiaretto taUcrw Capo dii float.!} oron I^dtJIbifcrnet j, gf F/rrrrSia'tttk j iW.iet I/tmtemadi Villa fraht jlladi rmaid't pevtb'> [enlmie 'STiocco an odell a Tot di^Mcnvaco * lino della Focimnia OA'ACO &HVI vovu> tic e of Nice. TORRETTA. 16. Route. 135 The Villa Clary (accessible) , below Cirnies , on the road to St. Andre (see below) , possesses the finest orange and lemon- trees at Nice and a number of rare plants. Orange-trees may be purchased at the Villa Bermond. The chateau of St. Andre (Restaurant, closed in summer) is situated 372 M. N. of Nice. The route ascends on the r. bank of the Paglione, crosses the exercising-ground and passes the monastery of St. Pons (40 min. walk from the Pont Neuf), belonging to the order of the “Oblati”. It was founded in 775, and is said to occupy the spot where St. Pontius, a Roman senator, suffered martyrdom in 261. It was destroyed by the Saracens in 890, and the present edifice erected in 999. Here in 1388 the treaty was concluded by which the County of Nice was annexed to the Duchy of Savoy. The chateau of St. Andre', which is reached in 7 2 hr. more, erected in the 18th cent., is now unoccupied. The view is the sole attraction. It stands on an eminence, at the base of which ( i -/ i hr. walk) is the Grotto of St. Andre , or rather a natural bridge over a brook, crossed by the road. An avenue of cypresses leads from the chateau to the grotto. The traveller may ascend the hill about 372 farther to the picturesque ruined castle of Torretta (or Tourette ) (two- horse carr. thither from Nice 10 fr.). Beyond the chateau of St. Andre, with its rich foliage, the road enters a most dreary and desolate rocky gorge, almost entirely destitute of vegetation, lying between Mont Chauve (or Monte Calvo, p. 132) and Mont Maccaron. Beyond it, cultivated land is again reached. The upper part of the village of Torretta consists of* venerable, grey houses, with flights of steps, arches and walls, rudely constructed of stone. The tower of the castle (unfortunately renovated ; visi- tors must apply to the proprietor for the keys) commands a very singular survey of the sterile mountain scene, especially of Mont Chauve, the Aspremont, and the deserted village of Chateau Neuf (see below), high on a barren ridge of rock; to the S. Montalban and the sea. Carriage-road thus far. About 172 M. farther is the dilapidated village of Chateau Neuf, founded on the ruins of former fortifications and probably employed in the 15th and 16th cent, by the inhabitants of Nice as a place of refuge from Turkish invaders. It has 136 Route 16. VILLAFRANCA. recently been entirely abandoned on account of the want of water. The view hence is considered one of the finest in the environs of Nice. *Villafranca , Beaulieu, St. Hospice. This excursion may be accomplished by water (boat with two rowers 8 — 10 fr.), or better still on foot by the new road (from the Place Napoleon by the Rue Cassini), commanding a charming view, and passing the villa of the singer Mile. Cruvelli (now Baroness Vigier) and the Villa Claridge. Farther on, the Villa Smith is observed to the r., on the promontory of Montboron. A view is next obtained of the picturesquely situated Yillafranca (above it the tower of Turbia, p. 129) and its most delightful bay, surrounded by olive- clad hills. On the height to the r. rises Fort Montalban. Finally a descent (IV 2 M.) to Yillafranca (French Villefranche) T a seaport with 2850 inhab., founded in 1295 by Charles II. of Anjou, as king of Sicily. The traveller may skirt the bay on foot and proceed to Beaulieu and St. Hospice (3*/2 M.), but it is preferable to cross the bay in 10 min. by a boat (1 fr.), which awaits the return of the traveller on the other side. A winding path leads from the landing-place to the Baie des Fourmies in 20 min. Turning here to the 1. a path leads in 10 min. to the celebrated olive-tree of Beaulieu (38 ft. in circumference). Thence a walk along the coast of V 2 hr. 1° St.. Jean (Inn, exor- bitant), on the E. extremity of the small peninsula, with the ruins of a fort destroyed in 1706 by Marshal Berwick; adjacent are the ruins of the chapel of St. Hospice. The tunny-fishery is carried on here with considerable success, especially in February? March and April. 17. From Nice to Turin by the Col di Tenda. Messageries or Malleposte (number of seats limited, early appli- cation recommended) to Cuneo in 22—23 hrs. (delay is sometimes occa- sioned in winter by the snow on the Col di Tenda, which is crossed in sledges)} Railway from Cuneo to Turin in 21/2 hrs. 5 fares 9 fr. 60, 6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 80 c. Through-tickets for the entire journey from Nice ta Turin may be procured for 32 fr., entitling the holder to a seiat in the 2 nd cl. of the railway. This is ^a very attractive route, especially for those coming from Turin. The views during the descent from the Col di Tenda to the Mediterranean are strikingly beautiful. The road crossing the Col di Tenda (5526 ft.) was constructed by Charles Emmanuel in 1591 and improved by Victor Amadeus III. in 1780 SOSPELLO. 17. Route. 137 (as two inscriptions on the road record). It is inferior to the majority of the skilfully constructed modern Alpine roads, being in many places only 12 ft. in yudth, and generally unprotected by a parapet or railing. The descent is therefore somewhat unpleasant, especially at the sharp turnings on the N.E. side of the mountain. During 3—4 months of the year the road is traversed by sledges only. A violent wind often prevails at the summit of the pass, especially in the afternoon, and sometimes seriously retards the progress of the mules which are used for the journey (gene- rally six in number, harnessed by twos). — About half way up is the opening of a tunnel, commenced by the Duchess Anne of Savoy in order to avoid the highest part of the pass. The works were stopped at the time of the French occupation in 1792 and have never been resumed. The tunnel, if completed, would be upwards of 21/4 M. in length. The road leads from Nice on the hank of the Escarena , an affluent of the Paglione, through the villages of La Trinita , Drappo and Pallarea. 13 3 / 4 M. Scarena. The road hence to Sospello traverses a sterile and unattractive district. The barren rocks which enclose the bleak valley are curiously stratified at some places. The road ascends to the Col di Braus (3971 ft.). To the S., on a lofty rock to the r., is seen the castle of Chatillon, or Castiglione, near Mentone. At the foot of the pass on the E. lies 1672 Sospello (1102 ft.) ( Hotel Carenco, usually consi- dered the best inn between Nice and Turin), situated in the valley of the Bevera (affluent of the Roja, see below), in the midst of olive-plantations and surrounded by lofty mountains. (New road from Sospello to Mentone in course of construction). The road now ascends to the Col di Brouis. Near the summit of the pass a final view is obtained of the Mediterranean. District unattractive, mountains bleak and bald. Then a des- cent to 15 M. Giandola (1173 ft.) (Hotel des Etrangers ; Poste), grandly situated at the base of lofty slate-rocks. Breglio , a town with 2500 inhab. and the ruined castle of Trivella , lies lower down on the r. The road now ascends the narrow valley of the Roja , which falls into the sea near Ventimiglia (p. 127). An inscription on the rock refers to the construction of the route. Saorgio , rising in terraces on a lofty rock on the r., with the ruins of a castle in the Oriental style, destroyed by the French in 1792, com- mands the road. On the opposite side is a monastery of con- siderable extent. The valley contracts, so as barely to leave 138 Route 17. CUNEO. From Nice room for the river and the road between the perpendicular rocks. Several small villages are situated at the points where the valley expands. Beyond Fontana the road crosses the Italian frontier. The southern character of the vegetation now disappears. Chest- nuts still flourish in the valley, hut the mountains are bleak and barren. The buildings of the former abbey of S'. Dalmazzo is now a water-cure establishment. 13 3 / 4 M. Tenda (Hotel Royal; Hotel Imperial) lies at the S. base of the Col di Tenda. A few fragments of the castle of the unfortunate Beatrice di Tenda (comp. p. 187) are picturesquely situated on a rock here. The road traverses a dreary valley by the side of the Roja and ascends by 50 zigzags on the barren mountain to the Col di Tenda, passing several refuges. The 5th Refuge is about 5 min. walk from the summit of the Col di Tenda or di Cornio (5526 ft.) where the Alpes Maritimes (W.) terminate and the Apennines (E.) begin. The view embraces the chain of the Alps from Mont Iseran to Monte Rosa; the plains of Piedmont are concealed by intervening mountains. Monte Viso is not visible from the pass itself, but is seen from a point a short distance beyond it, near the 4th Refuge. The descent is very steep. The road follows the course of the Vermanagna to 22 M. Limone (3134 ft.) (Hotel de la Poste), an Italian excise-station, and then becomes more level. The valley of the 'Vermanagna, which is now traversed, is at some places enclosed by wooded heights, at others by precipitous limestone cliffs. To the L rises the magnificent pyramid of the Monte Viso (11,819 ft.). 972 M. Robillante. The following village of S. Dalmazzo is »aid to be a remnant of Pedone, a town destroyed by the Milanese in 1250. 11 M. Cuneo, or Coni (1407 ft.) ( Hotel de la Poste; Hotel de Londres), a town with 12,797 inhab., at the confluence of the Stura and the Gesso, was once strongly fortified. After the battle of Marengo (p. 185) the works were dismantled in accordance with a decree of the three consuls (at the same time as the citadels of Milan and Tortona and the fortifications of Ceva and Turin) and converted into pleasure-grounds. In the principal street are arcades with shops on either side. The Franciscan to Turin. SAVIGLIANO. 17. Route. 139 Church , like most churches of this order beyond the Alps, is in the Gothic style (12th cent.), which was regarded by the Italians as the .architecture most expressive of the simplicity and austerity inculcated by the Franciscans. The Town Hall possesses a lofty tower, Cuneo is a great depot for wares on their route from Nice to N. Italy and Switzerland. A considerable fair is held here in autumn. — Pleasant walk to the Madonna degli Anyeli , at the confluence of the Gesso and the Stura. About 7 M. S.E. of Cuneo, in the Val Pesio, is the romantically situated Certosa di Val Pesio, now employed as a hydropathic establish- ment, also frequented as quarters for the summer by those in search of retirement. — In the Val di Gesso, about 10 M. S.W. of Cuneo, are the Baths ofValdieri, the waters of which somewhat resemble those of Aix-les-Bains in Savoy (p. 36). The Railway to Turin intersects the fertile plain, bounded on the W. by the Alpes Maritimes and, farther distant, the Cottian Alps, and on the E. by the Apennines. Centallo , the first station, with 4900 inhab., possesses remnants of mediseval walls and towers. Next stat . La Maddalena; then Fossano, an episcopal residence, on the 1. bank of the Stura, beautifully situated on an eminence, with ramparts and a mediseval castle. Savigliano ( Corona) is a pleasant town on the Macra , enclosed by old fortifications. The principal street terminates in a species of triumphal arch, erected to commemorate the marriage of Victor Amadeus with Christina of France. The principal church contains pictures by Mulinari (1621 — 93), a native of Savigliano, surnamed Caraccino , as an imitator of Caracci. Branch-Line W. to Saluzzo (in 1/2 hr. ; fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 25, 90 c.), capital of the province (formerly of a marquisate) of that name, with 15,814 inhab. The higher part of the town, with its precipitous streets, affords a fine prospect over the Piedmontese plain. Saluzzo was the birthplace of Silvio Pellico (p 241), to whom a monument was erected here in 1863. Next stat. Cavalier Maggiore, formerly fortified. Branch-Lin e to Alessandria in 5 hrs. ; fares 10 fr. 80, -7 fr. 55, 5 fr. 40 c. Stat. Madonna - Pilone ; then Bra, a prosperous town with 12,946 inhab. (staple commodities cattle, corn and wine). The church •of Sta. Chiara was erected in 1742 by Vettone in the richest style of that period. Next stations S. Vittoria , where the line reaches the Tanaro ; Monticelli , Musotio ; the Tanaro is crossed and Alba , with 9336 inhab., reached. The cathedral of S. Lorenzo dates from the 15th ■cent. Stations Nejve, Castagnole, Costigliole, S. Stefano - Belbo , on the river of that name, the valley of which the train traverses for a consi- derable distance; Canelli , Calamandrana and Nizza di Monferrato, whence 140 Route 17. CARMAGNOLA. From Nice a good road leads to Acqui (p. 185). Stat. Incisa, a considerable distance from the railway, is situated on the Belbo. Then Castelnuovo , Bruno , Ber- gamasco , OvigUo , Cantalupo and Alessandria, see p. 185. Near the next stat. Racconigi is a royal chateau, once a favou- rite residence of Charles Albert (d. 1849}, who caused it to be restored and embellished, and furnished with pleasant grounds.. Stat. Carmagnola, a town with 12,894 inhab., was the birth place (1390) of the celebrated military commander Francesco Bussone r son of a swine-herd, and usually termed Count of Carmagnola T who reconquered a considerable part of Lombardy and the possessions of Giovanni Galeazzo for Duke Filippo Maria Visconti. He afterwards became an object of suspicion to the duke and fled to Venice, where he was elected generalissimo of the army, with which he conquered Brescia and Bergamo and won the battle of Macalo (1427). His fidelity being again suspected, he was recalled to Venice by the Council of Ten and received with great pomp. On the departure of the army, however, he was thrown into prison, put to the torture, and on May 5th, 1432, beheaded between the two columns in the Piazzetta (p. 240). Bussone’s brief and chequered career is the subject of a tragedy by Manzoni. The inhabitants of Carmagnola disclaim the imputation of having invented the “Danse de la Carmagnole”, which was rendered so notorious by the orgies of the first French Revolution. (Railway from Carmagnola S. to Savona, p. 124, to join the Genoa and Nice line, in course of construction.) Stat. Villastellone. A road leads hence W., crossing the Po, to the town of Carignano (7800 inhab), on the high road from Turin to Nice, 41/2 M. distant. Several of the churches are interesting. S. Giovanni Battista was erected by Count Alfieri. Sia. Maria delle Grazie contains the monument of Bianca Paleeo- logus, daughter of William IV., Marquis of Montferrat, and wife of Duke Charles I., at whose court the “Chevalier Bayard” was educated. Carig- nano, under the title of a principality, was an apanage of Thomas Francis (d. 1056), fourth son of Charles Emmanuel I., and ancestor of the present royal family. Prince Eugene, uncle of the king, is entitled “Prince of Carignano.” At stat. Trofarello the line unites with that from Turin to Alessandria. Journey hence to Turin see p. 113. 141 18. From Turin to Milan by Novara. Hail way in 4 — 5 hrs.; fares 16 fr. 35, 12 fr. 20, 8 fr. 25 c. — The seats on the left afford occasional glimpses of the Alps. — Fiacres and omni- buses see pp. 96, 144. The train starts from the railway-station on the W. side of the town, at the extremity of the new Via della Cernaja which traverses the site of the former citadel. The Dora Riparia is crossed, then, beyond stat. Succursale di Torino , the Stura. Beyond stat. Settimo the Po is quitted. Stat. Brandizzo, beyond which the Malon and Oreo are crossed. Stat. Chivasso (Tete de Turc , tolerable) lies near the influx of the Malon and Oreo into the Po. Branch-line hence to Ivrea , see p 106. Beyond stat. Torrazza the Dora Baltea (p. 107), a torrent descending from Mont Blanc, is crossed. Several unim- portant stations, beyond which the line turns to the N.E. Stat. Santhih possesses a church, restored in 1862 with great, taste, and containing a picture by Gaud. Ferrari in 10 sections. Branch-Line N. to Biella in 1 hr., by Saluzzola and Candelo. Biella (Angelo), an industrial town and seat of a bishop, possesses streets with arcades and a fine Cathedral in a spacious Piazza, where the episcopal palace and seminary are also situated. The palaces of the old town, rising picturesquely on the hill, are now tenanted by the humbler classes. Celebrated pilgrimage- church of the Madonna d'Oropa , 8 M. far- ther up the valley (omnibus thither). On the way to it two admirably situated hydropathic establishments are passed. Next stat. S. Germano; then Vercelli (Tre Re; Leone d J Oro ; Posta), an episcopal residence with 24,038 inhab. The church of S. Cristoforo contains pictures by G. Ferrari and B. Luini. S. Caterina also contains a work of Ferrari. The library of the cathedral contains a number of rare and ancient MSS. Branch Line S. to Valenza (p. 1S4) in II /4 hr., crossing the Po near Casale. The train crosses the Sesia (p. 181), which descends from Monte Rosa. To the 1. rise the Alps, among which the magnifi- cent Monte Rosa group is especially conspicuous. Stations Borgo Vercelli , Ponzana and Novara ( *Rail . Restaurant; Tre Re , omnibus at the station), a fortress and episcopal residence (14,395 inhab.), commanded by the stately tower of the church of S. Gaudenzio, which was erected by Pellegrini about 1560 and contains several good pictures by Gaudenzio Ferrari. The tower, ascended by 300 142 Route 18. MAGENTA. steps, commands a very extensive prospect, especially picturesque towards the Alps. The Cathedral, a Romanesque structure with nave and double aisles, connected with the Baptistery by an atrium or forecourt, is a picturesque pile. The market-place' is surrounded by colonnades, The whole town, with its Italian architecture and numerous shops, is attractiVe and interesting. In the Corso Cavour, at the entrance to the town from the station, stands a Monument of Cavour , by Dini, erected in 1863. In the Palazzo Bellini , now the Intendenza , situated in a small and quiet Piazza in the centre of the town, Charles Albert signed his abdication on the night of March 23rd, 1849. The Battle Field of March 23rd, 1849, where the Austrians under Ra- detzky signally defeated the Piedmontese, lies without the Mortara Gate. On the route thither, on the r. within the town, is the Monument of Charles Albert, who, in consequence .of his defeat and the harsh terms prescribed by the Austrians, abdicated on the same day in favour of his son Victor Emmanuel. The celebrated philosopher Petrus Lombardos (d. 1146 as Bishop of Paris), surnamed the “Magister Sententiarum” and a pupil of Abelard, was born near Novara about 1120. At Novara the Turin and Milan line is crossed by that from Arona to Genoa (R. 24). Stat. Trecate. Near stat. A Martino the line crosses the Ticino by a broad and handsome stone- bridge of 11 arches, which the Austrians partially destroyed before the battle of Magenta, but not sufficiently to prevent the passage of the French. The greater portion of the French and Sardinian army crossed the river at Ponte di Turbigo , 9 M. farther N. Farther on, the Naviglio Grande (p. 144), a canal connecting Milan with the Ticino and the Lago Maggiore, i& crossed. Stat. Magenta is memorable as the scene of the battle of June 4th, 1859, between the Austrians and the united French and Sardinian armies, in consequence of which the former were compelled to evacuate the whole of Lombardy and retreat to the Mincio (p. 192). The French General Mac Mahon, who distin- guished himself here, was shortly afterwards created marshal and Duke of Magenta. A number of hillocks with crosses in a low- lying field opposite the station mark the graves of those who fell in the struggle. A monument to commemorate the battle was. CL 110 1. S. Alessandro 2. S. JLmbrogio 3. S. Angelo 4. Aeco aellaPace, 5. Avenns . .... . . 6. S. JBabUa. E.6 C.5.6. T.2. B2 C.2 G.l. 7. Billiot . AmbrosiMjuiXS.SH). 8 . Borsa 9 . Ilrera 10 . Brolelto 11 . lilliinc.ro ■ 12 S. Carlo Borromee. 13 . Casa di. Cairexcione 14. S’. CelsoSanlnario 15. Collegia Militare. . 16 . Conuuulo Militare 17. Concern . di. Masica 18. Bogarur 19. Durnio . 20 . S. Pule min 21. S.JSustorgio 22. S.Fedele. ........ 23. S'. Francesco ill Paola. E.5. 1.2. K E.1.5. El F8 E§- E.$. H 5 E.1.5. EE.5. .1.7. D.8. E.E.4. T.3. 24. (r iarcUno Pubblico. ■ GH.2.3. 25. S. Giorgio 0.6. 26. S.Giooajvnlirv Conccr E.6. 27 S. GottarcLo 1.5. 28. Lax xaretto 11.12 29. S. Forenxo D.7. 30. S. Marco E.2.3. 31 . S. Mar. del Carmine DE.3. 32 . S'. Mar. delle GravLir . B.5. 33. S'. .Mar Jnco roruvta E.l. 34. S. Mar. della Passione; H5. 35. S. Mar. Segreta D.5. 36. S. Mar. delSerorfdemolirt) 37. S. Mar. alia Porter . . . J)&. 38. S.Maarixio C.5. 5*. Michele; al Topponc H.6. 40. S.Waxaro E.6.7. 41. Ospedale. Magqiore. . E.6. 42 JW flare C.6. 43 . de Fate* bene; FratelU E.2. 44. OspeeL.deUrFaie benr Sorelles E.2. 45. Palaxxe Scale EE.5. 46. " Areioescovile. E .5. 47. del Goo erne HG4. 48 . della Villa/ G.3. 49. Marino E.l. 50. del BucaLiitaA .Xtb. 51 . S. Pietro in Gessate . . . G. 5. 52 . Polixias E.1.5. 53 . Poster ■ E.5.6. 54. Poster do- Can alii E3. 55. S. Saliro E.5. 56. S. Sehastitmo . OJE.5.6. 57 . S eminerrio . F.G.4. 58. if.Srpolc.ro D.5. 59. S. S imp liciano 3).2. W.S.Ste/hno E.5.6. 61. S. Tommaso D.4. 62 . S. Trinitas C.L 63. Teatro della Seal. a E.l. 61. d Cannob iojur E l. 6. 65- Car conn ... E.7. .1 Radegonda; . F.5. 67. Ffffx.. delleF Uiqenx.es E.4. S. Vittore , B.5.6. MILAN. 19. Route. 143 inaugurated in 1862. On an eminence in the burial-ground a small chapel has been erected. Next stations Vittuone and Rho (p. 179). The line intersects, numerous fields of rice, which are kept under water during two months in the year, and soon reaches Milan (see below). 19. Milan, Ital. Milano , Lat. Mediolanum. Arrival. The railway-station, an imposing structure, completed 1864, is decorated with frescoes of considerable merit: r. in the entrance-hall Commerce and Industry, 1. Art; in the waiting-rooms the four principal towns of Italy, Venice, Naples, Rome and Florence. The arrangements are also admirable. Omnibuses from most of the hotels are in waiting; charge generally 1 fr. each passenger. Fiacre from the station to any part of the town 1 fr., at night 1 fr. 25 c., each article of luggage 25 c. Omnibus to the cathedral 25 c. Porterage to the town for 2—100 lbs. 50 c. according to tariff. Hotels. Hotel de la Ville (PI. a), Corso Vittorio Emanuele, oppo- site the church of S. Carlo, expensive, on the ground-floor the large Cafe Europa; Hotel Cavour, in the Piazza Cavour, near the station, new and quiet, R. from 2 fr., D. 5 fr.; *Grand Hotel Royal (PI. b.), R. 21/2* L. 1, D. 4, B. II/2, A. 1 fr. ; Hotel Reichmann (PI. c), Corso di Porta Romana, R. 21/2, B. 1, D. 31/2, A. 1 fr. , L. 75 c.; *Gran Bretagna (PI. d), similar charges; *Hotel de Milan, Corsia del Giardino 22, new, R. 21/2, A. 1 fr., L. 75 c. ; *Hotel de l’Europe, Corso Vittorio Ema- nuele 9; *Roma, new, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 7, R. 2 fr., A. 75, L. 75 c., with restaurant, no table d’hote; Francia, Corso Vitt. Emanuele. — Se- cond class: S. Marco; *Bella Venezia, Piazza S. Fedele; Ancora; *Pozzo, Via Asole 8, near the Ambrosiana, R. IV2— 3, B. ll/ 2 , D. 23/ 4 , L. 1/2, A. 3/ 4 - Trois Suisses; Pension Suisse, commercial. — Al- bergo Firenze, near the station; Borsa, Via Rebecchino 16; Leone; Passerella; Bissone; Agnello, Corso Vitt. Emanuele A, all in the Italian style, with restaurants. Restaurants ( Trattorie , comp. Introd. V.). *Cova, with garden, near the Scala, concerts on Sund. and Thursd. ; *Borsa, near the Scala, ex- pensive; Accademia, near the latter; *Re bee chino, near the Piazza del Duomo ; Rin ascimento , with garden, by the Porta Venezia; Mi- lano, Via del Giardino. Isola Botta, without the town, by the Trium- phal Arch (p. 153), a favourite resort on holidays. Dinner-hours 3—7 p. m. Caf6s (comp. Introd. V.). Cafe in the Giardino Pubblico (p. 153); Europa; *Merlo (best ices), Corso Vitt. Emanuele; Galleria, in the Galleria de’ Cristof'oris; Mazza; Commercio; Duomo, in the Piazza del Duomo; Colonne, Corso Venezia 1; Maldifassi, near the Porta Nuova. A good dejeuner a la fourchette may be procured at most of the cafes; also Birra di Vienna (35 c.) and di Chiavenna (30 c.). Ices (sorbettoy afteT 4 p. m. and granita (half-frozen) at an earlier hour are one of the chief specialties of the cafes. — Beer at the Birraria N az ion al e ,. op- posite the cathedral, and the Birr aria della Scala, adjoining the Scala. 144 Route 19. MILAN. Baths. Corso Vittorio Emanuele 26. Swimming-bath outside the Porta Venezia. Fiacres (“Broughams'"). Drive (corsa) of less than 1/2 hr. between 6 a. m. and 1 a. m. 75 c., between 1 and 6 a. m. 1 fr. 25 c., each article of lug- gage 25 c. Omnibuses from the Piazza del Duomo to the different gates 10 c., to the railway-station 25 c.; the most frequented are the “ Porta Ticinese". and the “ Porta Garibaldi ” lines. Railway to Camerlata (Como, R. 20), No vara (Genoa, Turin, Arona, R. 18) and Venice (R. 26). Diligence ( Impresa Merzario , Via di S. Dalmazio 2, near the Scala) daily in connection with the railway and steamboats , to Coire by the Splugen once in 25 hrs. (RR. 20, 5), by the Bernardino in 261/2 hrs. (pp. 62, to 64 , 60 and R. 6) ; to Lucerne by the St. Gotthard once in 271/2 hrs. (pp. 47 to 56 and R. 4); to Sion by the Simplon once in 29 hrs. (RR. 22, 3). Post Office (PI. 53), near the cathedral, at the back of the Palazzo Reale. — Telegraph Office by the Borsa , Piazza dei Mercanti (PI. 8). Theatres (comp. Introd. VI.). Teatro della Scala (PI. 63); alia Oanob- biana (PI. 64), only during the Carnival, both with ballet; S. Radegonda (PI. 66), operas, a theatre of the second class; Carcano (PI. 65), generally operas. Performances at the *Scala theatre during the autumn and Car- nival only; arrangements of the interior worthy of inspection (1 fr.) Shops. Photographs , books , maps: Artaria e Figlio, Via S. Marghe- rita. — Silks: Manfredi, Zanardi et Cie, Via Rastrelli, near the post- office. — Haberdashers: Martinelli e Landi, Corso Vittorio Emanuele 28. English Church Service, Vicolo San Giovanni della Conca 12. Principal objects of interest for those whose time is limited: Ca- thedral, ascent of tower; Galleria Vittorio Emanuele; Brera (picture-gal- lery); Arco della Pace; S. Maria delle Grazie and Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper; S. Ambrogio, the oldest, and S. Alessandro, the most sump- tuous of the churches; Piazza de’ Mercanti; between 6 and 7 p. m. a walk in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele or outside the Porta Venezia. Milan, surnamed la grande , entirely reconstructed after its total destruction in 1162 by the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, is the capital of Lombardy and one of the wealthiest manufacturing towns (silk being one of the staple commodities) in Italy. The population, exclusive of the garrison and the suburbs, is (census of Dec., 1866) 212,240; the circumference of the city is up- wards of 9 M. It is situated on the insignificant river Olona, which howewer is connected by means of the Naviglio Grande (p. 142) with the Ticino and Lago Maggiore, by the Naviglio di Pavia (p. 186) with the Ticino and the Po, and by the Naviglio della Martesana with the Adda (p. 160), Lake of Como and Po. The favourable situation of Milan in the centre of Lombardy has always secured for it a high degree of prosperity. Under the Romans it was one of the largest cities in Italy, but its repeated Cathedral. MILAN. 19. Route. 145 destruction has almost entirely annihilated all the monuments of that period. Its heroic struggles against the German emperors are well known. With the exception of S. Ambrogio and a few other churches, the city was totally destroyed in 1162 by the emperor Frederick Barbarossa, but in 1167 rebuilt by the allied cities of Cremona, Brescia. Bergamo and Mantua. It was sub- sequently governed by the Visconti (1312—1447), then by the Sforza family (1447—1535). Milan with the rest of Lombardy afterwards fell into the hands of the Spaniards and in 1714 became Austrian. In 1796 it became the capital of the “Cis- alpine Republic”, then (till 1815) of the kingdom of Italy. The bloody insurrection of May 17th, 1848, compelled the Aus- trians to evacuate the city, and after they regained possession of it frequent manifestations, of popular feeling were exhibited. No town in Italy has improved since the events of 1859 in such a marked degree as Milan. The old part of the town, a portion of which consists of narrow and irregular streets, is enclosed by canals, without which suburbs (borghi), named after the different gates, have sprung up. Of the latter, eleven in number, the principal are the Porta Venezia at the extremity of the handsome new Corso Venezia, the pro- longation of which, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the principal street of Milan, leads to the cathedral; the Porta Sempione (p. 153) and between these the Porta Garibaldi, erected 1828, so named and furnished whith an appropriate inscription in 1859. The most celebrated of the 80 Churches of Milan is the **Cathedral ( Cattedrale , PI. 19) (the stranger is cautioned against engaging a commissionnaire or purchasing worthless arti- cles from this industrious class), dedicated to " Mariae Nascenti ” , as the inscription on the facade announces, and as the gilded statue on the tower (erected under Napoleon I.) over the dome also indicates, is termed by the Milanese the eighth wonder of the world, and is, next to St. Peter’s at Rome and the cathedral at Seville, the largest church in Europe. The interior is 448 ft. in length, 175 ft. in breadth; nave 148 ft. in height, 52 ft. in breadth. The dome is 201 ft. in height, the tower 339 ft. above the pavement. The roof is adorned with 98 Gothic turrets and the exterior with no fewer than 4500 statues in marble. The structure was commenced by Enrico Gamodia (Heinrich Arler of Baedeker. Italy I. 10 146 Route 19. MILAN. Cathedral. Grnund) in 1386, one year after the cathedral of Prague had been completed by Peter Arler of Gmiind. The principal parts of it were finished at the close of the 15th cent. In 1805 Na- poleon caused the works to be recommenced, and at the present day additions and repairs are constantly in progress. After the cathedral of Seville it is the largest existing exam- ple of (Italian) Gothic architecture. It consists of nave with double aisles and transept with aisles. It is supported by 52 pillars, each 14 ft. in diameter, the summits of which are ador- ned with canopied niches with statues instead of capitals. The pavement consists entirely of mosaic in marble of different colours. The vaulting is skilfully painted in imitation of open-work in stone. By the principal inner portal are two huge monolith columns of granite from the quarries of Baveno (see p. 46). The hand of brass in the pavement close to the entrance indicates the line of the meridian. By the W. wall of the S. (r.) transept is the ^Monument which Pope Pius IV., uncle of S. Carlo Borromeo, caused to be executed by Leone Leoni in 1564, to the memory of his brothers Giacomo and Gabriele Medici. The colossal statue in the middle represents the first of these brothers. (Tickets for the roof are obtained here.) The staircase leading to the dome is on the S. side of the S. transept. The chapel of the Offering of Mary (E. wall of S. transept) is adorned with fine Reliefs by Aug. Buzzi ; adjacent is the Statue of St. Bartholomew by Marco Agrate , anatomically remarkable, as the saint is represented flayed. The door of the S. Sacristy (r. in the choir) is remarkable for its richly sculptured decorations in the Gothic style (the treasury here may be inspected, fee 1 fr. ; among other valuables it contains silver statues, life-size, of S. Ambrogio and S. Carlo Borromeo and the ring and staff of the latter). A short distance farther is the marble Monument of Cardinal Marino Carraccioli (d. 1538), by whom Emp. Charles V. was crowned at Aix-la-Chapelle in 1520. The stained glass in the three vast choir- windows, comprising 350 representations of scriptural subjects, were executed by Alois and Jose Bertini of Guastalla during the present century; most of them are copies from old pictures. Before the N. Sacristy is reached the visitor passes the Statue of Pius IV. in a sitting posture , by Angelo Siciliano. The door of this sacristy is also adorned with fine sculptures in marble. By the E. wall of theN. transept is an altar with the Crucifixion in high relief, by Ant. Prestinari. In the centre of the N. transept, in front of the altar, is a valuable Bronze Candelabrum , decorated with jewels, presented by Giov. Batt. Trivulzio in 1562. At the Corner of theN. transept and aisle is an Altar-piece, painted in 1500 by Fed. Barocci , representing S. Ambrogio releasing Emp. Theo- dosius from ecclesiastical penalties. In the adjoining chapel of St. Joseph the Nuptials of Mary, by F. Zuccheri. The following chapel contains the old wooden Crucifix which S. Carlo Borromeo, barefooted, bore in 1576 when on his missions of mercy during the plague. Beneath the 5th (from Cathedral. MILAN. 19. Route. 147 the entrance) window of the N. aisle is a Monument, with relief of the Virgin in the centre, by Marchesi; r. and 1. the two Johannes of Monti. Not far from the N. side door is the Font , consisting ot a sarcophagus of porphyry beneath a canopy. It was originally the Sarcophagus of S. Dio- nysius, but was appropriated to its present use by S. Carlo Borromeo The canopy is by Pellegrini. In front of the choir, beneath the dome is the subterranean Cappella S. Carlo Borromeo , sumptuously decorated with gold and precious stones (accessible in summer 5—10, in winter 7—10 a. m • at other times 1 fr, ; for showing the relics of the saint himself 5 fr.’)’ No one should omit to undertake the ascent of the *Roof and Tower of the Cathedral. The staircase ascends from the corner of the r. transept; ticket 20 c.; map of town and environs IVafr., which will prove more useful than the services of a com- missionnaire ('% fr.). The visitor is recommended to ascend at once to the highest gallery of the tower (by 194 steps in the interior and 300 on the exterior of the edifice) and after having surveyed the prospect to descend and examine the details of the architecture of this vast marble structure. A watchman at the summit possesses a good telescope, by means of which the statues, especially the four by Canova, should be inspected. The cathe- dral is opened at 5 a. m. The earlier the ascent of the tower is undertaken', the greater the probability of a fine view of the Alps. View. To the extreme 1., S.W., Monte Viso, then Mont Cenis (p.40); farther distant, between these two, the Superga (p. 106) near Turin ; Mont Blanc, Great St. Bernard; Monte Rosa, the most conspicuous of all: 1. of the latter the prominent Matterhorn; then the Cima di Jazi, Strahl- horn and Mischabel; N.W. the Monte Leone by the Simplon (p. 45); the Bernese Alps; N. the summits of the St. Gotthard (p. 52) and Splugen (p. 60), and E. in the distance the peak of the Ortler (p. 68). S. the Cer- tosa of Pavia (p. 187) is visible, fartherE.t.he towers and domes of Pavia itself, in the background the Apennines. To the S., opposite the cathedral, is situated the Palazzo Reale (PI. 45); on the N. side is the dog and bird market. The Piazza del Duomo forms the central point of the traffic of Milan. It was formerly confined between narrow lanes, but has recently been greatly extended by their removal. Farther im- provements are contemplated, with a view to impart a more uniform appearance to the Piazza and render it a more worthy adjunct of the cathedral. The principal work which has been under- taken and completed since the emancipation of Milan from the Austrian yoke is the *Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, connecting 10 * 148 Route 19. MILAN 8. Ambrogio. the cathedral with the Scala. This is the most extensive and at- tractive of all the European structures of the description. It was commenced in March, 1865, by the architect Mengoni and inaugurated in Sept., 1867. The expenses of the construction amounted to 8 mill. fr. (320,000 1.). Length 220 yds., breadth 16 yds., height 88 ft. The form is that of a Latin cross, with an octagon in the centre, over which rises a cupola 170 ft. in height. The decorations are well-executed and bear testimony to the good taste of the Milanese. It is adorned with 24 statues of celebrated Italians: at the entrance from the Piazza del Duomo, Arnold of Brescia and G. B. Vico; in the octagon r. Cavour, Emanuel Philibert, Vittore Pisano, Gian Galeazzo Visconti; Ro- magnosi, Pier Capponi, Macchiavelli , Marco Polo; Raphael, Galileo, Dante, Michael Angelo; Volta, Lanzone, Giov. da Procida, Beocaria ; at the r. lateral issue Beno de’ Gozzadini and Columbus, at the 1. lateral issue Ferruccio and Monti; at the entrance from the Scala, Savonarola and Ugo Foscolo. The frescoes of the upper part of the octagon represent the four quarters of the globe; on the entrance arches are Science, Industry, Art and Agriculture. The gallery, which is occupied by the most attractive shops, is lighted in the evening by 2000 gas-jets. In the Piazza della Scala, where the theatre of that name is situated, it is intended to erect a monument to Leonardo da Yinci, the pedestal of which will be adorned with statues of his four pupils Salaino, Boltrafflo, Marco da Oggione and Cesare da Sesto. Leonardo (1452 — 1519) of Florence was the founder of the Lombard school of painting and the most illustrious master of whom the Milanese can boast. *S. Ambrogio (PI. 2), situated in the distant W. quarter of the city, founded by St. Ambrose in the 4th cent, on the ruins of a temple of Bacchus , dates in its present form from the 12th cent. The style is Romanesque, but the effect is greatly marred by the pointed vaulting. In front of the church is a fine oblong forecourt or Quadriporticus of the 9th cent., surrounded by arcades containing ancient tombstones, inscriptions and half- obliterated frescoes. The gates of this church are said to be those St. Ambrose closed against the Emp. Theodosius after the cruel massacre of Thessalonica ; a portrait of the saint is on the 1. side of the principal entrance. The 2nd chapel on the r. is decorated with frescoes by Gaudenzio Ferrari, representing the Bearing of the Cross , the Mourning of S. Lorenzo. MILAN. 19. Route. 149 the Virgin and the Descent from the Cross. The 4th chapel on the r., the Cappella delle Dame, contains a kneeling *statue of St. Marcellina, hy Pacetti. In the 7th chapel a Madonna with St- John and Jerome, hy Luini. Beneath the pulpit is an early Christian sarcophagus of the 6 th cent., said to he that of Stilieho. The Baldacchino over the high altar is borne hy four col- umns of porphyry 5 in front of it is the tombstone of Emp. Lewis IT. (d. 875). The choir contains an ancient episcopal throne. By the high altar is an *Ecce Homo, painted al fresco hy Luini and preserved under glass. In the Tribuna ^mosaics of the 9th cent., earlier than those at St. Mark’s in Venice: Christ in the centre, at the sides The history of Ambrose. — At the entrance to the crypt Christ among the scribes, a fresco hy Borgognone. The crypt contains the tombs of SS. Ambrose , Protasius and Gervasius. The church is at present undergoing restoration. The Lombard kings and German emperors formerly caused themselves to be crowned here with the iron crown, which since the time of Fre- derick Barbarossa has been preserved at Monza (p. 155). S. Alessandro (PI. 1), the most sumptuously decorated church in Milan , was erected 1602. The high altar is richly adorned with precious stones, but destitute of works of art. S. Carlo Borromeo (PI. 12), in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is a rotunda in the style of the Pantheon at Rome, 150 ft. in height, consecrated 1847. It contains two groups in marble by Marchesi and modern stained glass by Jose Bertini (the finest r. of the entrance: S. Carlo Borromeo among those sick of the plague). The church of *S. Lorenzo (PI. 29) is the most ancient struc- - ture in Milan ; the interior is supposed to have appertained to a temple erected by the Emp. Maximianus. Although frequently altered at subsequent periods, it is still an object of great interest to architects. It is an octagon surmounted by a dome. On the four principal sides are semi-circular apses in two stories., each supported by four columns. The whole is characterized by simple dignity. R. of the church is the Chapel of St. Aquilinus , con- taining very ancient mosaics and the sarcophagus of the founder, the Gothic king Ataulph (d, 416). The extensive * Colonnade in the same street (Corso di Porta Ticinese) also appertained originally to the same ancient structure. 150 Route 19. MILAN. Palazzo Litta. *S. Maria dalle Grazie (PI. 32), near the W. gate (Porta Magenta), an abbey-church of the 15th cent, was partially erec- ted by Bramante (choir, transept and dome). The 4th chapel on the r. contains frescoes by Gaudemio Ferrari (Crucifixion Chnst crowned with thorns, Christ scourged), and an altar-piece ( esceri from the Cross) by Caravaggio. In the 6th chapel frescoes by Flamingo. R. by the organ a Madonna by Luini. In the sacristy two frescoes by Luini. St. John, altar-piece by Oggione. The celebrated **L a s t S u p p e r by Leonardo da Vina is painted in oils on the wall of the refectory of the former monastery (now a cavalry-barack) ; 1, adjoining the church, is the entrance, within which the visitor turns r, then 1. in t e cloisters (fee 50 c.). This great work is unfortunately in a bad state of preservation. A fresco by Donato Montorfano (Crucifixion) of 1495, opposite the Last Supper is in a much better condition. S. Maria di S. Celso (Pi. 14), near the Porta Lodovica , also erected by Bramante , contains a Baptism of Christ (behind the igh altar) by Gaudenzio Ferrari , a Madonna adoring the Child, surrounded by John the Baptist, St. Rochus and the founders of the pmture, by Borgognone (1st chapel 1.) etc. Adjacent to t is church is S. Celso, a Romanesque structure, but partially removed in 1826. S. Maurizio (PI. 38), or Monastero Maggiore , a small church in the Corso di Porta Yercellina, contains ^frescoes by Luini in the nave and choir (the best are the two adjoining the high altar). Opposite to this church is the Palace of Duke Litta, contain- ing a collection of valuable pictures, of which the following are among the finest: Parmeggianino, Venus and Cupid; Correggio, arsyas , Luini Christ; Giulio Romano, Susanna; Salvator Rosa, Battle-pieces; Tempesta, Landscapes; frescoes by Luini. Visitors have, however, been excluded since the death of the proprietor in 1866, and the collection will probably be sold. Of the palaces of Milan, the following deserve special mention: Palazzo Marino, now Municipio, a colossal structure adjoining the Scala; Palazzo Ciani (Corso Venezia, 59—61) an edifice in terra cotta, completed in 1861, adorned with heads of Victor Emmanuel, Garibaldi, Napoleon etc. Palazzo Saporiti, with facade adorned with columns and statues. Brera. MILAN. 19. Route. 151 The *Brera (PI. 9) or Palazzo delle Scienze ed Arti , acces- sible daily in summer 9 — 4, in winter 9 — 3, on Sundays 12—4 o’clock, formerly a Jesuits ’ College , contains the Picture Gallery and Library of the Academy (170,000 vols., about 1000 MSS.) and a collection of Casts from the antique. The court contains statues in marble of the political economist Count Pietro Verri , the architect Marchese Luigi Cagnola (d. 1833), Tommaso Grossi, the mathematicians Gabrio Piola and Fra Bonaventura Cavalieri {d. 1647), and of Carlo Ottavio Castiglionei in the centre of the court a bronze statue of Napoleon I., as a Roman emperor, with a long staff in his left hand and in the right a small statue of Yictory, by Canova, considered one of his finest works. By the staircase, to the 1., the statue of the celebrated jurist Beccaria (d. 1794), who in his treatise “ dei delitti e delle pene” was the first to call in question the justice of capital punishment. On the wall of a back-staircase to the library is the Marriage of Cana , a fresco by Calisto Piazza da Lodi. The ^Picture Gallery (Pinacoteca) in 13 rooms, contains upwards of 400 oil paintings and admirable frescoes which have been carefully detached from old monastery-walls. Each picture is furnished with the name of the painter. 1st and 2nd Ante-Chambers: Frescoes by Luini , Ferrari , Bramun- tino and Marco cTOggione. Luini: 20. and 31. Angels; 33. Nativity; 34. In- terment of St. Catharine; *36. ‘Madonna with St. Antony and St. Barbara; 50. Gaudenzio Ferrari , Adoration of the Magi. — Oil-paintings. 1st Sa- loon: 6. Titian , St. Jerome; 10. Van Dyck , Madonna and St. Antony of Padua; 18. Domenichino , Madonna with saints and angels; ‘AS. Paris Bor done. Baptism of Christ; 36. Dan. Crespi , Bearing of the Cross; 47. Tintoretto , Pieta. — 2nd S. (1.): 45. Garofalo , Mourning for the dead Saviour; 56. Moretto , Madonna among clouds with three saints ; *58. Timoteo Vite da Ur- bino , Annunciation; 60. Palma Vecchio , Adoration of the Magi; 61. Paolo Veronese , Marriage of Cana; 71. P. Veronese, St. Cornelius , the pope and •other saints. — 3rd S. : *90. Gentile Bellini, Preaching of St. Mark; 105. Mantegna , Saints; 112. Paolo Veronese, Christ with the Pharisees ; 117. Mar- tino da TJdine, St. Ursula and her virgin followers; 118. Garofalo , Cruci- fixion. — 4th S.: 142. Franc. Francia Annunciation ; 144. Vittore Car- paccio, St. Stephen and scribes; Lotto, three admirable portraits; 188. Giov. Bellini, Pietas. — 5th S.: nothing of importance. — 6th S : **230. Ra- phael's far-famed Sposalizio (Marriage of the Virgin), an early work of the master, and strongly resembling the Sposalizio of Perugino, now at Caen; 251. Rembrandt , Portrait; 184. Cesare da Sesto, Madonna; 247. Luini , Madonna; 416. Drawing of the head of Christ for Leonardo da Vin- ci’s Last Supper (p. 150), preserved under glass; 254. Velasquez, Sleeping monk; *214. Guercino, Abraham and Hagar. — 8th. S.: 237. Guido Reni t MILAN. 152 Route 19. Biblioteca Ambrosiana. 9 th % ^ 2 n M l an l egna ' Bod 7 of Christ, drawing under glass. - , 8 ; * Va ; Dyck ' Female *2T9- Sassofermto, Madonna and Child; 257. Bontfaz.o, Moses and Pharaoh's daughter. - 10th S.: 280 Luca Gwrduno, Madonna and Saints; 429. Guido ReM , Madonna (a copy); 290 Federsgo. Baroc^ Martyrdom of St. Vitus; 294. Pietro da Cortona , Madonna' with saints, 332. Salvator Rosa , Landscape and hermits. — 11th S • 342 Marco da Oggione , St. Michael and Lucifer; 343. Gaudenzio Ferrari Martyr- om of St Catharine; 354 . Crespi, Presentation in the Temple; 355. Enea Salmeggia , surnamed Talpino. Madonna with saints; 370. Borgognone As- sumption. 12th S. : Modern pictures. ' The ground-floor contains the recently opened Museo Archeologico ( 10-8 daily, 50 c. ; Sundays 12-4 gratis), containing a collection of ancient and mediseval sculptures and inscriptions. In the centre the ^monument of Barnabo Visconti (dethroned in 1385 by his nephew Gian Galeazzo) the sarcophagus adorned with reliefs, in front the 4 Evangelists at the back the Coronation of Mary, at the sides Crucifixion and Entombment; above is the equestrian statue of the prince, with traces of gilding Re cumbent statue of Gaston de Foix (d. 1512, see p. 193), by Agostino Busti, surnamed II Bambaja. Marble door attributed to Michelozzo. — An annual exhibition of art also takes place here, generally in September. The celebrated Biblioteca Ambrosiana (PI. 7.), open 10—3 o’clock (fee to the library-attendant 1 fr., to the custodian of the pictures 1 fr. ; picture-gallery, or Pinacoieca, open to the public on Wednesdays 10 2 1 / 2 , entrance from the reading-room), con- tains 60,000 vols. and 15,000 MSS. and palimpsests, or codices rescripts some of them very valuable. The library was founded m 1609 by the archbishop Cardinal Fred. Borromeo, to whom a statue was erected in front of the building in 1865. Codice Atlantico , i. e. original drawings and MSS. of Leonardo da Vina,- Virgil with marginal notes by Petrarch; a number of miniatures ; letters of S. Carlo Borromeo, Tasso, Galileo, Liguori etc. Then, Christ crowned with thorns, al fresco, Bernardino Luini; Cupid in marble, R. Scha- dow; several reliefs and bust of Byron by Thorwaldsen ; mosaics, coins, old woodcuts and drawings by celebrated masters. On the walls above about 60 oil-paintings: Guido Rent , Christ on the Cross; Titian, Adoration of the Magi; old copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper; Spinning girl marble statue by Sehadow; Eve, Barocci; Raphael's cartoon for his School of Athens and the cartoon for the battle of Constantine,' a fragment; Bea- trice d’Este, by Leonardo da Vinci , also drawings by him; three studies for Michael Angelo's Last Judgment; cartoon for a Sposalizio (see p. 151) by Gaudenzio Ferrari; Luca d'Olanda (Lucas of Leyden ) , Adoration of the Magi; Raph. Mengs, Portrait of Pope Clement XIII.; models of obelisks and Trajan’s Column at Rome. In the court Rom. inscriptions. — Fine stained glass by Jose Bertini (p. 149). The Gspedale Maggiore (PI. 41), a vast and remarkably fine brick structure, commenced 1457, contains no fewer than 9 courts. Arco della Pace . MILAN. 19. Route. 153 The principal court is extensive and surrounded by arcades. The entire edifice is covered externally with terra cotta, in a style frequently observed in other Milanese buildings. The Castle, once a residence of the Visconti and Sforza, the fortifications of which have recently been strengthened, is now a barrack. By the spacious exercising-ground, or Piazza d’Armi, behind the castle, is the Arena (fee (Aj fr-), a species of circus for races etc. founded by Napoleon I. The grass-seats are capable of accommodating 30,000 persons. Opposite the castle, on the N.W. side of the Piazza d’Armi, is the *Arco della Pace (PI. 4), or Arco di Sempione, a triumphal arch in the Roman style, founded in 1804 by Napoleon as a termination to the Simplon route, completed by the Emp. Francis in 1830, the destination and decoration having been altered (ascended by means of 107 steps}. The former inscriptions in honour of Emp. Francis have been superseded by others comme- morating the emancipation of Italy in 1859. This lofty gateway,, with three passages, consisting entirely of blocks of white marble, was erected by L. Cagnola (p. 151) and is adorned with nume- rous reliefs and statues. On the platform is the goddess of Peace in a chariot with 6 horses,, at the four corners Victoria; on horseback. Side towards the town: by the inscription, on the r and 1 ., the river-gods of the Po and Ticino. L. beneath the great corniche, the entrance of Emp. Francis into Milan in 1825, above it the battle of Kulm, below it the surrender of Dresden. R. the foundation of the Lombard and Venetian kingdom, above it the pas- sage of the Rhine, below it the taking of Lyons , all by Pompeo Marchesi. Beneath the great arch the foundation of the “Holy Alliance” in two re- liefs. On the W. side the battle of Arcis - sur - Aube , E. the victory of Lyons, by Marches 1 . Side towards the country: river -gods of the Ta- gliamento and Adige, by Marchesi. Beneath the corniche on the 1 . the Con- gress of Vienna , institution of the order of the Iron Crown , taking of Paris 5 r. peace of Paris, entry of the Allies into Paris, entry of General Keipperg into Milan in 1814. The Giardino Pubblico (PI. 24) is a favourite promenade,, near the Porta Venezia, especially frequented on Sunday after- noons. The Corso, or promenade of the fashionable world, is 6 7 p. m. in the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and outside the- Porta Venezia. These grounds have been enlarged by the addition of the ISew Giardino Pubblico, by the Porta Nuova, in commemoration of the liberation of Italy from the Austrian yoke, and now ex- 154 Route 19. MILAN. tend from the Porta Venezia to the Porta Nuova. They consist of fine avenues, artificial sheets of water and even a small deer- park. On a small island is a marble statue to Carlo Porta , “poeta Milanese’ 5 . In front of the entrance to the new garden rises the Statue of Cavour in bronze, on a lofty pedestal of granite, in front Clio entering his name on her tablets, at the hack the date 1865. Several other statues also adorn the gardens. By these grounds rises the Museo Civico, opened in 1863 (admission on Tuesd., Wed. and Sat. 11—3 o’clock, 50 c. ; on Thursd. gratis), containing natural history collections r on the 1st floor palaeontology and ethnography (also a phrenological col- lection of skulls), on the 2nd floor zoology. At the entrance are busts of former directors. 20. From Milan to Como. Lake of Como. Comp. Map p. 158. Railway (station outside the Porta Nuova ) in II /2 hr- to Camerlata; fares 5 fr. 45, 4 fr., 2 fr. 85 c. Thence omnibus to Como and the steamboat in "25 min., 50 c. Tickets for the omnibus and steamboat may be purchased at the Milan station ; separate luggage-tickets are issued for the railway and omnibus; that for the former must be given up at Camerlata, other- wise the luggage will be detained there. Steamboat 3 times daily from Como to Colico in 31/2 hrs.; to Lecco •every Saturday at 6 a. m., holidays excepted. Fares from Como to Colico 4 fr. or 2 fr. 10 c., from Como to Cadenabbia or Bellaggio 2 fr. 55 or 1 fr. 40 c. Stations on the W. Bank : Moltrasio , Carate , Laglio , Torrigia, Argegno , Campo , Lenno , Cadenabbia (pier), Menaggio (pier), Rezzonico , Cremia , Bongo , Gravedona, Domaso; on the E. Bank: Torno , Nesso, Bellaggio (pier), Varenna, Bellano , Dervio , Colico (pier); tickets (gratis) for the ferry-boats atta- ched to the steamboat tickets (the boatmen however expect a trifling gra- tuity). Between Cadenabbia, or Menaggio, and Bellaggio, the steamboat is the cheapest mode of conveyance, especially for single tra- vellers, Those who embark at intermediate stations between Como and Colico must provide themselves with a ticket at the pier; otherwise they are liable to be charged for the whole distance from Como or Colico. Boats, 1 fr. for the boat, 1 fr. each rower per hr. (at Cadenabbia they charge “ per una escursione ”, however brief its duration, with 1 rower 2, with 2 rowers 4 fr.) A third rower is generally anxious to join the party: he may be got rid of by the words “ basta due ” (two are enough). Tra- vellers should observe the time of starting, and pay according to the pre- ceding tariff, an acquaintance with which is the best protection against extortion. Should an attempt be made, the words “C'b la tassa", “that is %e fare!” will probably frustrate it. An additional fee of 1 / 2 — 1 fr- amply suffices. In case of dispute reference to the innkeepers is of little avail, MONZA. 20. Route. 155 there being a community of interest between them and the boatmen. Those who wish to ascertain beforehand what they will have to pay, should put the following question: Quanto volete per una corsa d'un ora (di due ore) 1 ? Siarno due ( tre , quattro ) persone. E troppo , vi daro un franco (due -franchi etc.) Plan of Excursion. Those who wish to visit the Lakes of Como and Lugano (p. 168) and Lago Maggiore (p. 174) without loss of time, should pursue the following route, starting from Milan: train at 10.50 a. m. in 2 hrs. to Como; at Como inspect the Cathedral (interior), the Town-hall (exterior) and Volta’s monument; proceed by steamboat in the evening in lVz hr. to Cadenabbia or Bellaggio, spending the night there. Next morning visit Villa Carlotta, Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi; by steam- boat in 1/4 hr., or by rowing-boat, to Menaggio; thence by omnibus at 11 a. m. (fare 21/2 fr.) in 2 hrs. to Porlezza, in time for the steamboat which starts for Lugano at 1. 15 p. m. (Sund. and Tuesd. excepted), arriving in 1 hr. (2 fr. or 1 fr.), early enough to leave time for the ascent of Monte S. Salvadore. From Lugano Diligence to Luino at 9 a. m. in 23/4 hrs., steamboat from Luino in II /2 -hr. to the Borromean Is- lands, thence in 1 hr. to Aron a. The above information is obtained from the time-tables of last summer. The railway traverses the fertile plain, luxuriantly clothed with vineyards, mulberry-plantations and fields of maize and in- tersected by innumerable canals and cuttings for purposes of irrigation. First stat. Sesto. Monza (*Palazzo Reale ; Angelo ; Falcone ; *Albergo del Cas- tello) is a town with 22,106 inhab. The Cathedral , founded by the Lombard queen Theodolinda (the present structure of the 14th cent.) contains several objects of interest. In the N. aisle the sarcophagus of Queen Theodolinda; in the E. transept reliefs of the 13th cent., supposed to represent the coronation of Emp. Otho III., or that of Henry III. — In a casket forming the centre of a richly decorated cross over the altar, r. of the choir, is preserved the celebrated Iron Crown, with which 34 Lombard kings were crowned. The last coronations for which this venerable relic was employed were those of Emp. Charles V., of Napoleon in 1805 and of Emp. Ferdinand I. in 1838. It consists of a broad hoop of gold adorned with precious stones, round the interior of which is a thin strip of iron, said to have been made from a nail of the true Cross brought by the empress Helena from Pa- lestine. In 1859 it was carried off by the Austrians, but after the peace •of 1866 was restored to its former repository. — The Treasury contains several objects of historical interest: a hen with 7 chickens in gold, re- presenting Lombardy and its 7 provinces, executed by order of Queen Theodolinda; the queen’s crown, fan and comb; two silver loaves, pre- sented by Napoleon I. after his coronation; the cross which was placed -on the breast of the Lombard kings at the moment of their coronation; goblet of Berengarius ; diptychs (ivory tablets with reliefs) etc.; then,' in a cabinet outside the treasury, the mummy of one of the Visconti, who 156 Route 20. LECCO. From Milan died in 1413. The treasury is shown for a fee of 1 fr. for 1—2 pers.; it also contains a model of the iron crown. The Broletto, or town-hall, of the 13th cent., with round arched windows and tower, is believed to be part of a palace of the Emp. Frederick I. and the Lombard kings. The royal Summer Palace near Monza is a large building with an extensive and beautiful park, traversed by the Lambro. The church of the Madonna di Tirano contains frescoes by Luini, Gaudenzio Ferrari and Cesare da Sesto. From Monza by Lecco to Colico omnibus twice daily (tickets obtained in Milan at the Agenzia of Taglidbue , Corsia del Duomo 987. Also diligences from Lecco to Colico in 5 hrs.). 3 M. Carscmiga is reached. On the picturesque hills of the (1.) Brianza (see below) many villas of the wealthy Milanese are situated. At the point where the Adda issues from the lake of Lecco is an old bridge of the 14th cent. (p. 164). 14 M. Lecco (AlbergoP Italia; Angelo; Leone d'Oro) is an industrial town with 8000inhab., possessing silk, cotton and iron manufactories, situated at the S. extremity of the E. arm of the Lake of Como, and admirably described in Manzoni’s “Promessi Sposil Pleasant walks to the height of Gastello and the pilgri- mage-church on the Barro (view of the Brianza). Railway from Lecco to Bergamo see p. 191. The bank of the lake on which Lecco lies is very precipitous ; the high road which skirts it is partly supported by masonry and partly carried through long tunnels and galleries. Admirable views of the lake, especially near Varenna. Then Bellano , Dervio and Colico see pp. 165, 166. The billy tract which comes in view farther on, r. of the railway, is the fertile Brianza (see below}, with its numerous country-residences. By theBrianza to Bellaggio on the Lake of Como (p. 161), avery attractive route for pedestrians, especially for those who have already traversed the lake and are desirous to become acquainted with the inland scenery: from Milan to Seregno (p. 157) by railway in 3/ 4 hr., omnibus or carriage to Canzo in 3 hrs., thence to Bellaggio a walk of 5 hrs. At the station of Seregno carriages are generally in waiting to convey passengers to Canzo, fare 5—7 fr., but exorbitant demands are frequently made (“Quanto volete per Canzo ? — E troppol Barb cinque , sei, sette franchi ”). An omnibus (3 fr.) runs in the morning daily, except Sundays, from Canzo to Seregno, returning in the evening; the traveller therefore who avails himself of this conveyance must pass the night at Canzo, in which case he will be enabled to start on his walk early on the following morning. A carriage road leads from Canzo to Bellaggio, but the country is very hilly, and walking is pleasanter and hardly less expeditious than driving. The road from Seregno to Canzo intersects a portion (the W. side) of the Brianza, an undulating, grassy, partially wooded and extremely fertile tract, 12 M. in length, 6M. in breadth, extending between the Lambro and the Adda , and stretching N.E. to the vicinity of Lecco (p. 164). At Inverigo, about one- third of the way, rises the ^Rotunda, a handsome and conspicuous to Como. CAMERLATA. 20. Route. 157 country-residence with small park and admirably kept garden, the property of the Marchese Cagnola, situated on an eminence in the midst of vines, mulberry and other fruit-trees, and commanding an extensive prospect over the Brianza. Where this road crosses that from Lecco to Como, near Erba (p. 159), several small lakes are situated, W. the Lago d'Alserio , E. the Logo di Pusiano. The road now enters a more mountainous district and the sce- nery becomes more attractive. Caslino , possessing considerable silk- factories ( filatorie, ), rises picturesquely on the slope of the hill. The road follows the course of the small river Lanibro. Canzo (* 'Croce di Malta , the first house on the 1. An agreeable liqueur, called Vespetro, is manufactured at Canzo), almost contiguous to Asso, 25 min. beyond. At the entrance of Asso is a very extensive silk manu- factory ( Casa Versa). The road now gradually ascends for a considerable distance in the picturesque valley of the Lambro , the Vail 1 Assina (see above), the slopes of which are well wooded; it passes through several villages, (3/ 4 hr.) Lasmgo , (3/ 4 hr.) Barni and Magreglio , where the ascent becomes more rapid; first view of both arms of the Lake of Como from the emi- nence near the (25 min.) Chapel. Delightful ^Survey of the entire W. arm to Lecco and far beyond, from the rear of the first church of (25 min.) Civenna, with its graceful tower. The road now runs for 3/ 4 hr. along the shady ridge of the moun- tain which extends into the lake at Bellaggio ; beyond the chapel the follow- ing striking views are obtained: the W. arm of the lake (of Como), the Tremezzina with the Villa Carlotta and Cadenabbia (p. 262), the E.arm (Lake of Lecco), a large portion of the road along the'E. shore resting on masonry and embankments, the entire lake from the promontory of Bellaggio to Domaso (p. 166), and the rising ground with the Serbelloni park (p. 162). The road winds downwards for about 1 hr., passing the Villa Giulia (p. 162) on the r., and 10 min. before Bellaggio is reached, the church- yard of that place, containing the monument of the painter Carlo Bellosio , several of whose pictures are to be seen at Bellaggio. From Civenna to the hotels at Bellaggio on the lake (p. 161) 2 hrs. walk. Farther on, beyond stat. Seregno , the long, indented Monte Resegone rises on the r. Stat. Camnago , then a small tunnel, and stat. Cucciago. Above Camerlata ( Albergo della Stazione ; a good trattoria , opposite the post-office , near the station) rises the lofty old tower of the Gastello Baradello , once frequently oc- cupied by Frederick Barbarossa. The harbour of Como is 1 i/ 2 M. from the station at Camerlata; omnibus thither in 20 min. (50 c.). Como (662 ft.) (Angelo; *Italia, R. from ll/ 2 , L. l/ 2 , B. 1, D. 3, A. l/ 2 fr; both on the harbour, with cafds and restaurants; in the vicinity a bath- establishment ; *Magasino di Gastronomia di Frasconi, a restaurant in the Italian style, near the harbour, at the W. end of the gallery. -Corona, outside the Porta Milanese), 158 Route 20. COMO. From Milan with 20,614 inhab., birthplace of the younger Pliny and of the ex- perimental philosopher Yolta (d. 1826; his statue by P. Marchesi is on the W. side of the town near the harbour), is situated at the S. extremity of the S.W. arm of the Lake of Como, enclosed by an amphitheatre of mountains. The * Cathedral, commenced 1396, completed 1521, constructed entirely of marble, is one of the best in N. Italy. Over the portal reliefs (adoration of the Magi) and statuettes (Mary with S. Abbondio, St. Protus etc.). At the sides of the principal en- trance are statues of the elder and the younger Pliny, erected 1498. The gaudy vaulting, restored in 1838 at an expense of 600,000 fr. , mars the effect of the interior, the proportions of which are imposing and resemble those of the Certosa near Pavia (p. 187). The windows of the portal contain fine modern stained glass, representing the history of S. Abbondio.' In the interior, to the 1., are the busts of Pope Innocent XL (Odescalchi) and the bishop of Como, Carlo Ravelli; dates 1852 and 1856. In the choir the Apostles by P. Marchesi. The sacristy contains pictures by Guido Reni , Paolo Veronese etc. Over the altar of S. Abbondio the Adoration of the Magi, by Bernardino Luini , and the Flight into Egypt by Gaudenzio Ferrari ; over the opposite altar of S. Giuseppe the Nuptials of Mary by G- Fer- rari, bearing some resemblance to Raphael’s Sposalizio (in the Brera at Milan, p. 151), and the Nativity, by B. Luini ; over the altar of St. Jerome a *Madonna by B. Luini ; St. John, a statue by P. Marchesi, with basrelief, his last work. The altar of the Mater Dolorosa is adorned with an Entombment by Tom- maso Rodari (1498). The Altare del Crocefisso of 1498 poses- ses a fine statue of St. Sebastian. Adjoining the church is the Town Hall ( Broletto ), completed in 1215, constructed of alternate courses of different- coloured stones. Behind the cathedral is the handsome Theatre , erected 1813. The old church of S. Fedele, of the 10th cent., is in a remote part of the town. Extensive silk and weaving factories. On the promenade outside the town is the church Del Cro- cefisso, richly decorated with marble and gold, of the 17th cent. ; beyond it, to the 1., on the slope of the mountain about 1 M. from the town, is the fine old Basilica S. Abbondio of the 11th cent. ; iron foundries in the vicinity. to Como. ERBA. 20. Route. 159 Diligence from Camerlata to Varese (p. 167) on the arrival of the trains from Milan-, also to Laveno (p. 176) on the Lago Maggiore, by Varese, in 5 hrs., on the arrival of the first train. Omnibus to Varese in the after- noon, fare 2 fr., but 31/2 fr. are generally demanded. From the Corona (p. 157) omnibus (2 fr. 10 c.) to Capolago (p. 168) in connection with the steamboat to Lugano. In the morning and evening Swiss diligence (from the stat. at Camerlata) to Lugano (p. 169) in 31/2 hrs., Bellinzona (p. 55) in 71/2 hrs., Lucerne (over the St. Gotthard, R. 4) in 25l/ 2 hrs., Coire (over the Bernardino, R. 6) in 241/2 hrs. (in the morning only); see p. 144. From Como to L-ecco by Erba, diligence daily in 3 hrs. (steamer see p. 154). Como is quitted by the Porta Milanese. The road gradually ascends the hills to the E. The view of the Lake of Como is concealed by the beautifully wooded Monte S. Maurizio; to the S. a survey is ob- tained of the district towards Milan and the Brianza (see p. 158). The church of Camnago, a village situated N. of the road, contains the tomb of Volta (p. 158). Farther on, S. of the road is the sharp ridge of Montor- fano near a small lake. Near Cassano is a curious leaning campanile. Beyond Albes'o a view is disclosed of the plain of Erba (Pian d'Erba) and the lakes of Alserio , Pusiano and Annone, above which the Corni di Canzo (4230 ft.) and the Resegone di Lecco (5778 ft.) rise on the E. Near (IOI /2 M.) Erba (955 ft.) ( Inn ), a. small town in a luxuriantly fertile district, are several handsome villas ; the Villa Amalia on the W. side commands a charming view of the Brianza. Near Incino , with its lofty Lombard campanile , once stood the Forum Licini of the Romans, mentioned by Pliny together with Como and Bergamo. Before the road crosses the Lambro , which is here conducted by an artificial channel to the Lago di Pusiano, the road to stat. Seregno (p. 157) diverges to the r., that to Bellaggio to the 1. (see p. 161). Penzano on the N. bank of the Lago di Pusiano is next reached, then Pusiano itself. Beau- tiful glimpse N. of the Vail' Assina (p 156) and of the Corni di Canzo, S. 6f the Brianza. Near Civate is the double Lago d' Annone (E. rises the Re- segone di Lecco) , connected by the Ritorto which the road follows, with the Lake of Lecco. The latter is reached at Malgrate , on the W. bank, with numerous silk-factories. Opposite to it lies Lecco (p. 156). — From Lecco to Colico, following the abrupt E. bank of the lake, diligence in 5 hrs;, see p. 164. The Lake of Como (656 ft.; greatest depth 1810 ft.), Ital. Lago di Como or R Lario, the Lacus Larius of the Romans, ex- tolled by Virgil (Georg. II. 1 59), is in the estimation of many the most beautiful of the lakes of N. Italy. Numerous bright villas of the Milanese aristocracy, surrounded by luxuriant gardens and vineyards, are scattered along the banks of the lake. In the forests above, the brilliant green of the chestnut and walnut contrasts strongly with the greyish tints of the olive, which to the un- accustomed eye bears a strong resemblance to the willow. The moun- tains rise to a height of 7000 ft. The scenery of the lake, as seen from the deck of the steamboat, though on a far grander scale, faintly re- sembles the Rhine, the banks on both sides being perfectly distinguished 160 Route 20. TORNO. Lake of Como. by the traveller. The lake is altogether about 36 M. long; its greatest width is scarcely 3 M. At Bellaggio (p. 161) the lake separates into two branches, termed respectively the Lakes of Como and Lecco. The Adda enters at the upper extremity and makes its egress near Lecco. The W. arm, or Lake of Como, has no outlet. — The population of the banks of the lake is of an industrial character ; the production and manufacture of silk is their principal employment. — The Lacus Lanus derives a classic interest from its connection with the two Pliniesi the younger of whom was a native of Como, whilst the elder prosecuted his philosophical researches in the surrounding district. — The lake abounds in fish; trout of 20 lbs. weight are not unfrequently captured. The “Agoni” are a small, but palatable variety. The prospect from the quay at Como is limited, hut as soon as the steamer has passed the first promontory on the E. the entire beauty of the lake is disclosed to the view. Lake Western Bank. Villa Raimondi , formerly Odes- calchi, the most extensive on the lake, is situated at Borgo Vico , the N.W. suburb of Como. Villa d J Este was long the residence of Queen Caroline, the unfortunate consort (d. 1821) of George IV. of England; Villa Pizzo was formerly the property of Arch- duke Rainer (d. 1853). Villa Passalacqua resembles a manufactory with numerous windows. Near MoltrasiO is a pictu- resque waterfall. In the back- ground rises the Monte Bisbino (4116 ft.). - — Villa Colobiano , a green and red structure. The lofty pyramid, with the inscription “Joseph Frank” and a medallion, was erected by a professor of Pavia of that name (d. 1851), grand- son of the celebrated physician of Como. Eastern Bank. Villa Trubetzkoi , a cottage in an angle near the rock, belongs to a Russian prince of that name ; Villa Bocarme, a castellated edifice, was erected by the well- known Belgian countess of that name; Villa Taglioni , with a Swiss cottage, formerly the pro- perty of the celebrated danseuse, now belongs to her son-in-law Prince Trubetzkoi; Villa Pasta was the residence of the cele- brated singer (d. 1865); Villa Taverna , formerly Faroni. Torno is surrounded by villas. Villa Pliniana at the end of the bay, at the entrance of a narrow gorge, a gloomy red edifice, erected in 1570 by Count Anguissola, one of the four conspirators who assassinated Duke Farnese at Piacenza, now i Gen. Rani.o,'' • \X.&.(npvani JfMidre J.Pescatori , I.HclIfl O.r/fiate] ^ mnan Mail/uid . (jdlLcaixfe tuvorarvLUsirtmuxs. Jfof (fegrap/nsdieMei lm, 15 1 Grad de.r Arif. , r «7 le Jdwobb la S •‘maa Fiientes ’avejlraia ! foiur(^putruT-~ 3 ® &//?*> w/x umci iseno > Olffiascfl, k £ (wenjuf Bellaiu Yarcnml ' PIM ^ W, j/ '7)rriut 0 "'-•'/ Castino Bn mate Sola , . K pjlp! 1 BatbiaU e; Wafir.’.aU iyi tSMfO ^ ^jJiuidnc Mosisio \y^)l(j(ate Itnerlaia memo. ’}i(jo otr . jT^adetto F-S j? -■■ oJsi'.mq! o r d fliainbriujo ^ % rberifltk R ° {/ >■' ' /t< VH/te ^ jrefto ttfind Jbbatr~^ yfhep CJfiiiardx- fBernat(\ rfajr&ite' Jntimiano l Cncriagt Bnemiao) i * ^Bb'pgqiiftb size?- Mumbai,' J4SOO Schi^xer-Eo mm BELLAGGIO. 20. Route. 161 Western Bank. Peter Frank of Vienna. The professor left the sum of 25,000 fr. for this purpose, from which it may he inferred that he did little else to merit the remem- brance of posterity. — Laglio, with the Villa Gaggi , now Antongina. Villa Galbiati, completed 1855, is gaudily painted on the exterior ; then Torrigia and Brienno with numerous laurels. Argegno lies at the mouth of the Intelvi Valley , the capital of which, 8. Fedele, is reached by a carriage-road hence. Sala , with the small island of 8. Giovanni , or Comacina, fre- quently mentioned in the annals of mediaeval warfare, once for- tified and now occupied by a small church. Monte Legnone and Monte Legnoncino (p. 165) rise conspicuously on the N.E. Campo lies in a bay formed by the promontory of Lavedo , which here projects far into the lake. On its extremity glitters the Villa Balbianello , with a colonnade, the property of Count Arcomati. Tremezzo (Alb ergo Bazzoni) is almost contiguous to Cade- nabbia; between them the Villa Carlotta is situated. This district, termed the Tremezzina , is not inaptly called the garden of Lombardy. Bsedeker. Italy I. Eastern Bank, the property of the princess Belgiojoso, whose name figured conspicuously in the disturbances of 1848. It derives its name of Pliniana from a neighbouring spring which daily changes its level, a peculiarity mentioned by Pliny. Extracts from his works (Epist. IV. 30, Hist. Nat. II. 206) are inscribed on the walls of the court. Quarsano and Careno. Nesso at the base of the Piano del Tivano (3566 ft.), Nesso Sopra and Nesso Sotto , the latter with a lofty waterfall (often dry in summer), in a rocky gorge. Lezzeno lies near the deepest of the lake. Bellaggio (665 ft.) (*Grande Bretagne, *Genazzini, both beautifully situated on the lake ,• R. 21/2, D. 31/2 fr., pension 7 fr. ; Hotel Gran di, Ital. style, also on the lake. Boat to Cadenabbia 3, Menaggio 4, Melzi and Carlotta 4 fr., Steamboat preferable), at the W. 11 162 Route 19. CADENABBIA. From Milan Western Bank. Cadenabbia (c« de navia , ship-houses) (*Bellevue, R. 2, D. 4, pension 7 fr. ; *Belle He, mo derate ;VilledeMilan, formerly Pension Majolica, 5 fr.), halfway between Como and Colico. In a garden sloping down to the lake, in the midst of lemon and . citron trees, stands the celebrated *Villa Carlotta (formerly Scm- mariva ) , purchased by the Princess Albert of Prussia in 1843 for 550,000 fr., now the property of her son-in-law, the Duke of Sachsen -Meiningen , widower of the Princess Charlotte of Prussia (d. 1855). From the staircase on the upper terrace the visitor enters the vestibule, which contains a bust of Count Sommariva by Acquisti. From this he passes to the Marble Saloon, the frieze of which is ornamented with *Bas-reliefs by Thcrwaldsen , representing the Triumph of Alexander (pur- chased by the Count of Som- mariva for 400,000 fr.); it also contains several statues: *Cupid and Psyche, Magdalene, Pala- rnedes, Yenus and Paris, all by Canova; Mars and Venus by Acquisti. In the billiard-room is shown a chimney-piece with sculptured frieze, said to be one of Thorwaldsen’s early works. In the garden- saloon are several modern pictures, Eastern Bank, base of - the promontory which separates the two arms of the lake, perhaps the most delight- ful point on all the lakes of Up- per Italy. Higher up stands the Villa Serbelloni; the building itself has more the character of an old farm-house than a ducal residence, but the *view from the park, which extends to the extremity of the wooded pro- montory, is magnificent. It extends over the lake in both directions , and embraces the Lake of Lecco (seep. 164); this is generally considered the finest view on the lake. Charm- ing glimpses of Yarenna, Villa Balbianello, Carlotta etc. (fee V 2 fr. to each attendant, for a party more). At the entrance of the park and at the hotels, small objects tastefully manu- factured in olive-wood are sold as souvenirs. A short distance S. of this, in the direction of the Lake of Lecco , is the Villa Giulia (beautiful flowers* splendid view over the Lake of Lecco , visitors may generally walk round without an atten- dant), Adjacent to the latter is the Villa Paldi. On the lake to the N. of Genazzini is the new Villa Frizzoni , the property of a wealthy silk-merchant of Ber- gamo. To the S. of this, *Villa Melzi, close to the lake, scarce- to Como . VILLA MELZI. 19. Route. 163 W extern Bank, also a marble relief by Lazza- rini, entitled “Napoleone Gio- vane” (fee */ 2 fr. to each atten- dant, more for a party). — Behind the “Milan” hotel rises II Sasso S. Martino , a rock on which the small church of Ma- donna di 8. Martino stands, commanding a beautiful view; ascent l J / 2 hr., path in some places destroyed by torrents. — The Monte Crocione, a more lofty mountain to the W., commands a striking view of the Monte Rosa chain, the Ber- nese Alps and Mont Blanc, the lakes and the plain of Lombardy (a fatiguing ascent of 6— -7 hrs.; guide 5 fr. ; in order to avoid the heat the traveller should start at 2 or 3 a. m.J. Eastern Ban k. ly less- attractive than Villa Carlotta (p. 162). In the ves- tibule copies in marble by Canova of antique busts ; por- trait-busts (Dante among others) and statues. The walls of the following saloons are ornamented with frescoes : in the dining-hall, genii with game, fruit, vege- tables etc.; a youthful Bacchus presides over the vine. In the saloon dedicated to Napoleon I. is his portrait as president of the Italian republic, by Appiani. In the garden -chapel are two monuments to the memory of the two last proprietors of the villa. The ^Garden which is kept in admirable order, contains a fine collection of southern plants, mag- nolias, camellias, Chinese pines, gigantic aloes etc., all of which flourish luxuriantly; there are small monumental tributes to Dante and Alfieri. Gratuity to the superintendent 1 fr., more for a party; gardener */ 2 fr.) — Outside the villas the walks are uninteresting, all view being obstructed by high vineyard- walls. — Monte S. Primo (4914 ft.), the highest mountain of the peninsula of Bellaggio is often ascended (5 hrs.) ; *view, embracing seven lakes and ex- tending as far as Milan. The route to the base may be per- formed on horseback. 11 * 164 Route 19. MENAGGIO From Milan From Bellaggio to Lecco see p. 156. Steamboat from Como to Lecco twice weekly in summer. The Lake of Lecco, which is less attractive than the E. arm of the lake, is about 15 M. in length. After the steamer has steered round the Punta di Bellaggio , the Villa Giulia (p. 161) is left on the r. ; adjoining it is Visgnola; farther on, Limonta ; on the opposite (1.) bank Lierna and Sor- nico, r. Onno, 1. Olcio , then Mandello on a flat tongue of land. Opposite the latter is the market- town of Pare , separated from Malgrate by the promontory of S. Dionigio. Malgrate itself lies at the entrance of the Val Madrera, through which the road by Erba to Como leads (p. 159). The lake here gradually contracts to form the Adda, by which river it is drai- ned. A stone bridge of ten arches, II Ponte Grande , leads to Lecco, on the opposite bank ; it was constructed in 1335 by Azzone Visconti and furnished with fortified towers at the extremities. Fine view of the town from the bridge. Lecco see p. 156. — A short distance below Lecco the Adda again expands into the Lago di Garlate, and further down, into the small Lago di Olgirate. A navigable canal leads from Trezzo to Milan. — From Lecco to Milan railway by Bergamo in 3 hrs., see p. 191. Here, at the Punta di Bellaggio , the two arms of the lake, the Lago di Como and the Lago di Lecco, unite to form the Lake of Como, properly so called. Lake of Como. Western Bank. Menaggio ( Corona ) (to the S. the new Villa Mylius ) is the starting-point of omnibuses for Porlezza on the Lake of Lugano (p. 172). On the height (V 2 hr.), adjoining the church of Loveno (*Inn) , stands the Villa Vigoni (*view) formerly the property of Herr Mylius, of Frankfort, a liberal patron of the fine arts (d. 1854), and the benefactor of the entire neighbourhood, as the monuments to his memory testify. The villa contains some meritorious works in marble (Eve, Jesus in the temple, the Finding of Moses, Ruth) by modern Ita- lian sculptors , reliefs by Thor- j waldsen (Nemesis, in the temple I E astern Bank. Varenna (*Albergo Reale) is charmingly situated; near it, es- pecially to the N., are a number of galleries hewn in the rocks on the occasion of the con- struction of the Stelvio route The marble quarried in the vicinity is polished in the marble -works here. S. of Va- renna, a waterfall 900 ft. high, of the Fiume Latte , or milk- stream (from its white colour) precipitates itself through a ca- vern in the rock. This fall is generally very fine between March and May, whilst in some years it commences in August and disappears again in Sep- tember; in very hot summers to Como. GITTANA. 19. Route. 165 Western Bank, erected by Herr Mylius to his son’s memory) and Marches!; in the garden -saloon a *group hy Argenti, the proprietress with her children. The steamer next passes a wild, yellowish brown cliff, the Sasso Rancio (orange - rocks), which is traversed hy a dange- rous footpath. This route was undertaken in 1799 by the Rus- sians under General Bellegarde, many of whom perished by fall- ing over the precipice. S. Abbondio is the next village. Rezzonico ( Raetionicum) , with picturesque ruins of a strong- hold of the 13th cent. Pianello and Cremia with a handsome church. Musso (above it the church of S. Eufemia, commanding a beautiful view ) ; then Dongo, with a monastery. Farther on, Gravedona , the most populous Eastern Bank, it dries up altogether. Varenna is perhaps the most beautifully situated spot on the lake ; op- posite lies the peninsula on the N. extremity of which stands the Villa Serbelloni, and the lakes ot Lecco and Como are embraced at one glance. The beauty of its situation is par- ticularly remarkable if the tra- veller ascends the somewhat steep path which leads to the waterfall. The Torre di Vezio situated still higher commands a noble prospect. Gittana is the station for the hydropathic establishment of Re- goledo (pension 6 fr. , "per le operationi idropatiche ” 2 fr.); donkey thither 1 fr. , horse or ehaise-a-porteurs 2 fr. Bellano lies at the base of Monte Grigna (6805 ft.), at the mouth of the Pioverna , the valley of which extends to the neighbourhood of Lecco and con- tains flourishing iron-works. Dervio, at the mouth of the Varrone , is situated at the base of the abrupt Monte Legnone (8039 ft.) and its spur Monte Legnoncino (4647 ft.). Corenno and Dorio are the following villages. 166 Route 19. COLICO. Western Bank, place on the lake, picturesquely situated at the entrance of a narrow, but well cultivated val- ley. The spacious country -re- sidence with four towers, at the upper end of the village, for- merly belonged to the Milanese Cardinal Grallio. The church dating from the 13th cent., con- tains two early Christian in- scriptions of the 5th cent. Domaso is charmingly situa- ted and contains several attrac- tive villas. Eastern Bank. Colico [Alb ergo Piazza Gari- baldi, on the lake; Isola Bella ; both in the Italian style), comp, pp. 62, 72. The Monte Legnone , mentioned above, may be as- cended hence without difficulty in 7—8 hrs. 01/ . Colico to Chiavenna Swiss diligence (also an omnibus. ^ / 2 fr.) twice daily in 3 hrs.; thence (twice in summer) daily over the Splugen to Coire (R. 5) in 131/2 hrs. From Colico to Sondrio in the Val Tellina diligence twice daily in 5 hrs., also an omnibus (comp. pp. 64, 72). 20. From the Lake of Como to the Lake of Lugano and the Lago Maggiore« 1- From. Como to Lave ho direct 30 M. The road traverses a beautiful district of Lombardy, commanding views of several lakes, of Monte Rosa and the Simplon chain and of other high mountains. One- horse carr. from Como to Laveno 20, two horse 30 fr. 5 a drive of about b hrs. Diligences and omnibus see p.159. The road ascends through the long S. suburb of S. Barto- lommeo, skirts the base of an eminence surmounted by the ruins of the Castello Baradello (p. 157) and leads to Camerlata (p. 157), station of the railway for Milan. It then turns E. to Rebbio, Lucmo and Lurate Abb ate, traversing a luxuriantly fertile district containing numerous villas of the Milanese aristocracy. At Olgiate the road attains its culminating point (730 ft. above the Lake of Como), whence a view o'f the Alps 'is obtained; through’ the ' deep opening to the N., which indicates the situation of the Lake of Lugano, the chapel on the Monte S. Salvadore (p. 171) near Lugano- is visible. The road next passes the villages of Solbiate and Binago , descends rapidly by Malnate and crosses the Lanza , YARESE. 20. Route. 167 near its influx into the Olona, which after a farther course of 30 M. washes the walls of Milan. Varese ( Angelo ; *Stella; *Corona. The diligences and omni- buses between Como and Laveno generally halt here for 2 hrs., during which the town may be inspected), a wealthy town half- way between Como and Laveno, is frequently visited by the wealthy Milanese, who possess villas in the environs. That of the Duca Litta merits a visit. S. Yittore, the principal church, contains a St. George by Crespi and a Magdalene by Morazzone , Yarese, as well as Laveno (see below and p. 176), was the scene of some of Garibaldi’s bold manoeuvres in the war of 1859. The road to Laveno leads by Masnago (1 hr. to the N. is the ^Madonna del Monte, p. 173) and Cosciago and ascends to Luinate , whence a beautiful view S.W. is obtained of the Lake of Varese and the small adjacent Lake of Biandrone, also of the farther distant lakes, of Monate and Comabbio. The next village is Barrasso, then Comerio (700 ft. above the lake), with a number of pleasant villas, whence the road passing near the N.W. extremity of the Lago di Yarese, gradually descends to Gavirate , in the vicinity of which are quaries of the “marmo majolica”, a species of marble used for decorative purposes. For a short distance the road commands a view of Monte Rosa. Cocquio and Gemonio are situated r. of the road. Farther on, the Boesio, which flows through the Val Cuvio , is crossed and, beyond Cittiglio, its r. bank skirted. The road then leads past the S. base of the Sasso del Ferro to Laveno (p. 176), where the steamboats do not always touch, comp. p. 173. Small boat to the Borromean Islands and Pallanza with 3 rowers 10 — 12 fr. ; to Isola Bella l 1 /^. hr., thence to Isola Madre in 20 min., to Pallanza in 20 min. more. 2. From Como to Luino by Lugano, to Lugano 18M., to Luino 12 M. more. Swiss diligence from Camerlata to Lugano twice daily in 31/2 hrs., from Lugano to Luino once daily in 2 2 3 /4 hrs. — Omnibus from Como to Capoiago see p. 159. Steamer from Capolago to Lugano see p. 169. On re-entering the Italian dominions (at Fornasette , p. 172) from the Canton of Ticino the formalities of the custom-house must be undergone. The road leads through Bor go Vico, the W. suburb of Como, and ascends the Monte Olimpino, commanding charming retrospects 168 Route 20. MENDRISIO. of the lake, Como, the Villa Raimondi (p. 160] etc., above which the Corn! di Canzo rise on the 1. and the rocky eminence crowned with the Castello Baradello on the r. Ponte Chiasso is the Italian frontier custom-house for travellers from Switzer- land. Chiasso (737 ft.) (Angelo, or Posta) is the first Swiss village Mendrisio (1117 ft.] (Angelo), a small town with 2200 inhab.,' situated in a most fertile district, contains three monasteries and a handsome new hospital. *Monte Generoso (5218 ft.), also termed Monte Gionnero and Monte Galvaggione , the Rigi of Italian Switzerland, should he ascended by those whose time permits, especially as the paths have recently been improved and an mn has been erected on the mountain. The latter is reached in 21/ 2 hrs from Mendrisio the summit in U/ 2 hr. more. Guides (unnecessary) and horses at Mendrisio . The *Hoteldu Generose , situated on an open plateau, and containing a post and telegraph office, the property of Dr. Pasta of Mendrisio, at whose expense the new paths have been formed, is a comfortable house and well adapted for a prolonged stay. The path; following the telegraph-wires, ascends at first in long zigzags past the wine-cellars of Mendrisio to a shady dale, beyond which it leads beneath magnificent chestnut-trees to the mountain-hamlet (ll/ 2 hr.) of Cragno, then in 20 min. more through meadows and woods to the chalet Cassina, with a fine breed of cattle In V 2 hr. more the inn is reached. Beyond this the path, which is some- what steep, leads across mountain-pastures and past several peaks of the mountam to the summit in H/ 2 hr. A scanty spring of tolerable water bubbles up 100 paces below the top. The view embraces the lakes of Lugano Como Varese and the Lago Maggiore, the populous district of Lombardy and to the N. the entire Alpine chain. Excellent grapes and figs thrive luxuriantly at the base of the mountain, which is clothed higher up with chestnuts, beeches and finally pines. A variety of the rarest plants also grow here. - Monte Generoso may also be ascended from Lhiasso (or Balerna ), or from Rovio, in 4 hrs. At Capolago (Inn on the lake) the road reaches the *Lake of Lugano, or Lago Ceresio (874 ft.), the scenery of which is little inferior to that of its magnificent neighbours Como and Maggiore. Near Lugano the banks are very attractive, decked with villas, churches and chapels, and planted with vines, figs, olives and walnuts. The S. arm of the lake also presents some beautiful pictures, especially on the W. side. On the N. bank, at the base of Monte Bre, lies the charmingly situated village of Gandria, with its picturesque gardens supported by lofty arched terraces. The remaining portion of the lake assumes a wilder and less attractive character. The rocks are so abrupt in some places that scarcely sufficient space is left for the footpath at their base. At the N. extremity of this bay Porlezza (p. 172),, LUGANO. 20. Route. 169 a harbour and seat of the Italian custom-house, is situated. Small boat to Lugano 10 — 12 fr. Beyond Capolago the road, commanding a succession of beau- tiful views, leads on the E. bank of the lake by Melano and Maroggio to Bissone, where it crosses the lake by means of an unsightly stone dyke, or dam, M. in length, 24 ft in width, completed in 1846 at a cost of 700,000 fr. Each extremity of this structure is provided with an arch. The road then passes Melide , on a promontory opposite Bissone, and skirts the laker passing the E. base of Monte 8. Salvadore (p. 171). The white dolomite, of which the mountains chiefly consist here, changes near Melide to dark porphyry, and as S. Martino is approached, there is a gradual transition to shell-limestone. Lugano does not come in view’ until the road turns round the N. base of Monte S. Salvadore, where the striking beauty of the situation at once becomes apparent. Hotels. *H 6 1 e 1 du Parc, in the former monastery of S. Maria degli Angioli on the S. side of the town, R,. 2 — 3, L. 3/ 4} B. ll/g, P>. excl. W. at 1 o’clock 3, at 5 o’clock 4 fr. pension 6 — 9 fr. ; in winter -51/2 — 6 fr. — Grand Plotel Suisse and Hotel de la Couronne are tolerable, but command no view. — Post and telegraph office in the Gov. Buildings (p. 170). Diligence to Luino (p. 175) once daily in 21/2 hrs., coupd 3 fr. 60, in- terieur 2 fr. 90 c. i steamboat- tickets for Lago Maggiore are also issued at the office (two-horse carr. 20 , one-horse 12 fr., incl. fee). Steamboat to Capolago A fr. or 60 c.; to Porlezza 2 or 1 fr. Boats to Porlezza (p. 172) with one rower 7 fr. , two 12 fr. , three I 6 I /2 fr.; to Capolago 6 , 10 or 12 fr., incl. fee. English Church Service at the Hotel du Parc during the season. Lugano (874 ft.), the most considerable town of the canton of Ticino , with 5600 inhab. (28 Prot.), is charmingly situated on the lake of the same name and enjoys a southern climate (the aloe blooms here in the open air), without the oppressive heat of the Italian towns. It is a most agreeable place for a lengthened sojourn; the environs display all the charms of Italian mountain- scenery ; numerous white villas and country-seats are scattered along the verge of the lake; the lower hills are .covered with vineyards and gardens, contrasting beautifully with the dark foliage of the chestnuts and walnuts in the background. To the S., immediately above the town, rises Monte 8. Salvadore , wooded to its summit (p. 171); among the mountains towards the N._ the double peak of Monte Camoghe (p. 56) is conspicuous. 170 Route 20. LUGANO. The interior of the town with its arcades, workshops in the open air, and granite-paved streets also presents a thoroughly Italian appearance. On market-day (Tuesday) the Italian costume is to he seen here in every variety. The convents were formerly very numerous, hut were sup- pressed between 1848 and 1853, with the exception of two. The most , important was S. Maria degli Angioli , now the Hotel du Parc. The adjacent church contains three Frescoes hy Luini, the *Cruci-' fixion, one of his finest works, the Last Supper (on the 1. wall) m three compartments, formerly preserved at the Lyceum, and a Madonna (1st chap, on the r.). 8. Lorenzo , the principal church, on an eminence (fine view from the terrace), is said to have been designed hy Bramante. The marble facade is tastefully adorned. The white marble reliefs represent the busts of the four Evangelists, Solomon and David. Adjoining the Theatre are the handsome Government Buildings, with the inscription: In legibus libertas; quid leges sine monbus et -fides sine operibus? In a small temple at the Villa Tanzina , l/ 4 M. S. of the Hotel du Parc, is a bust of Washington: “magnum saeculorum decus”. The proprietor of the villa, in which apartments may sometimes be hired, is an Italian who acquired a fortune in America. — The garden of the neighbouring Villa Vasalli con- tains some fine cypresses. — Superb view from the tower in the garden of the Villa Enderlin , to which access is permitted by the proprietor. The beautiful park of M. Ciani extends along the N. bay of the lake; strangers are readily admitted (gardener 1 fr.). The proprietor, a native of Milan, has erected a marble Monument in the park to the memory of his parents, the work of the sculp- tor Vela. Opposite the Hotel du Parc, on the new and spacious quay, is a Fountain, with a Statue of William Tell , 8 ft. in. height,, in white sandstone, designed by Vine. Vela, and erected at the cost •of M. Ciani. In front of the church of 8. Pietro near Pambio, 1 l/ 2 M. S.W., stands a Statue (also by Vine. Vela) of Captain Carloni who was killed in 1848 near Somma Campagna, fighting as a volunteer MONTE ERE. 20. Route. 171 “ per la liberta e Vindipendenza d’ Italia’'. 1 M. to the "W. of Pambio, in the churchyard of 8. Abbondio , near the £5 min. W.) church of that name, is a white marble * Monument of the Tor- riani family, also by Vela, an admirably executed work. Delightful excursion to *Monte S. Salvadore (2797 ft.), ascent 2 hrs., descent ll/ 2 hr., guide (4 fr.) superfluous, as the path cannot be mistaken; horse 9 fr. , mule 8 fr. , incl. fee. 10 min. from the Hotel du Parc, be- tween a detached house and the wall of a garden, a good paved path diverges to the r. from the road to Como; 2 min. farther, where the path divides, not to the r., hut straight on to the houses; between these the road ascends, past the handsome and conspicuous (25 min.) Villa Mar- chino to (5 min.) the village of Pazzallo, from which Monte Rosa is visible through a mountain-gorge. Here the path diverges to the 1. from the broad road, through the gateway of the fourth house, and ascends to the 1. by a stony but easy ascent in IV 2 br. to the Chapel on the summit (to which pilgrimages are made). Near the chapel is a small house with a spring, which however is frequently closed; in this case no refreshment of any kind -can be obtained. The *view embraces all the arms of the Lake of Lugano, the mountains and their wooded slopes, especially those above Lugano, sprinkled with numerous villas. To the E. above Porlezza is Monte Legnone (p. 165) , to the 1. of which , in the extreme distance, are the snow-peaks of the Bernina; N. above Lugano the double peak of Monte Camoghe (p. 56), 1. of this the distant mountains of St'. Gotthard; W. the chain of Monte Rosa, with the Matterhorn and other Alps of the Valais to the r. This view is seen to the greatest advantage in the morning, when Monte Rosa gleams in the sunshine. In descending, the route through Carona (1847 ft.) and Melide (p. 169) (somewhat longer) may be chosen. The ascent (21/2 hrs.). of *Monte Bre, N.E. of Lugano, is another easy excursion, scarcely less interesting than the former. A road runs inland towards several mills at the foot of the mountain. Thence a broad and well- constructed path winds upwards to the r. to the small village of Desago, passing a few groups of houses. Another route to Desago from the town runs along the lake to the foot of the mountain, and then ascends from hamlet to hamlet, through gardens etc. Above Desago the path divides ; both' routes are broad, and well-constructed^ leading round the mountain to the village of Bre on its farther side (Inn,* bread and wine only). The route to the r., above the lake, is of surpassing beauty, that to the 1. also commands a fine inland view. Near the church of Bre a narrow forest- path ascends to the summit of the mountain. This path also divides; the branch to the r. traverses the highest ridge of the hill, that to the 1. leads to a spur of the mountain in the direction of Lugano. The summit may be attained by either. The view of the several arms of the Lake of Lu- gano, especially in the direction of Porlezza, and the surrdufiding moun- tains, is remarkably fine. Lugano itself is not visible from the summit, but from the above-mentioned spur a good view of it may be obtained. All these paths are easily traced. From Lugano to Bre about II /2 br..; from Bre to the summit by the longest way about 1 hr. Monte Caprino, opposite Lugano, on the E. bank of the lake, is rnuck frequented on holidays by the townspeople, who possess wine-cellars (can- 172 Route 20. PORLEZZA. I m the n " merou s cool grottoes by which the side of the mountain from^T ese receptacles are guarded hy numerous huts, which from a distance present the appearance of a village Wine of good quality and icy coolness may here be obtained (“Asti” is particularly recommended) These cellars should be visited for their truly Italian characteristics. Beyond Lugano the road gradually winds upwards to the W turns S. past the small Lake of Muzzano, crosses the Agno and leads through the village of that name (908 ft.), and a short distance farther reaches the W. arm of the Lake of Lugano. Near Magliaso, with an ancient castle of the Beroldingen family the lake is quitted, hut another of its hays is touched near Ponte Tresa (so called from a bridge across the Tresa, here connecting the Swiss and Lombard hanks). This hay is so completely en- closed hy mountains, that it appears to form a distinct lake- it is connected with the Lake of Lugano by a narrow channel only. I he Tresa, which here emerges from the lake, falls into the Lago Maggiore 3 / 4 M. S.W. of Luino. The road follows its course ' as far as the Italian frontier at Fornasette, where luggage is exa- mined. The road then descends and soon affords a view of the Lago Maggiore. Luino, see p. 175. and LufaTn '? a ? enabM ? OP- 162) or Menaggio (p. 164) by Porlezza merL n 161 n r n ° ” L , Ui "°’ C ° mp N °' 2) ' 0m ” itas and stea- boat than ' 6 * 4 ' T One ' h0rae carr - from Menaggio to Porlezza in 2 hrs., 6 fr.; 5-6 r or ,h° hrS '’ 7_12 fr0m L “6“» *0 Porto in 3 hrs. to Porto » . * ”“ ay prefer to P roceed direct by boat from Porlezza , a Lombard harbour at the extremity of the S.W. bay of the Lake of Lugano; one horse carr. from Porto to Laveno in 4 hrs. 12-15 fr. The journey from Cadenahhia or Menaggio to Porlezza(9M) is strongly recommended to the notice of the pedestrian, as the road leads through a sucTession of imposing and attractive moun- tam-scenes. The Villa Vigoni (p. 164) lies r. of the road, to t e N. The retrospect from the height near Croce, 2 M from Menaggio, is lovely. To the W. Monte Crocione on the 1. and Monte Oalbiga (5254 ft.) in front rise abruptly. The road then escends to the small Lago del Piano and the village of Tavordo. Porlezza {Inn on the lake) (p. 168) is nearly 2 M. farther. At- tempts at extortion are frequently made here hy the fraternity who prey upon travellers. The scenery of the E. arm of the Lake of Lugano is of a severe character. Soon after Porlezza is quitted, the Monte MADONNA DEL MONTE. 20 . Route. 173 S. Salvadore (p. 171) becomes conspicuous to the S.W. The lake becomes more attractive as Lugano is approached. Gandria (p. 168) is delightfully situated on the N. bank, at the base of Monte Bre (p. 171). Stone bridge near Melide see p. 169. Morcote lies on a tongue of land which forms the S. base of Monte S. Salvadore. Porto is the seat of the Italian custom-house. The road, which at first ascends rapidly, commands picturesque retrospects. Beyond Induno (*Inn), 6 M. from Porto, the road to Yarese is quitted and that r. to S. Ambrogio followed. The village lies 3 M. N. of Yarese (p. 167) and 11/2 M - S - E - of the base of the *Madonna del Monte, a celebrated resort of pilgrims. Fourteen chapels or stations of various forms, adorned with frescoes and groups in stucco , have been erected along the broad path , by which the mo- nastery and church on the mountain (2669 ft.) are attained in 1 hr. The view hence is not less celebrated than the peculiar sanctity of the spot. The small lakes of Comabbio, Biandrone and Monate, that of Varese, two arms of the Lago Maggiore, a portion of the Lake of Como and the ex- pansive and fruitful plain as far as Milan are visible. A far more com- prehensive view , including the glacier- world also , is obtained (best by morning-light) from the Tre Croci (3777 ft.), 1 hr. N.W. of the Madonna Several taverns adjoin the monastery. Donkeys and guides (unnecessary) are to be found at the foot of the mountain. The road then leads from S. Ambrogio to Masnago , where it joins that leading from Varese to Laveno, see p. 167. 21. Lago Maggiore. Borromean Islands. From Sesto Calende (Arona) to Milan. Steamboats ply on the lake 3 times daily during the summer: from Magadino to Arona in 41/2 hrs., from Luino to Isola Bella in U/^hr., from Isola Bella to Arona in 1 hr. •, fares from Luino to Isola Bella 1 fr. 81) or 1 fr. 15 c., from Isola Bella to Arona 1 fr. 70 or 95 c. , landing and em- barking included. The steamboats are the best and cheapest conveyance to Isola Bella, especially for a single traveller (from Pallanza 60, from Stresa 40 c.) ; and, as they touch at the island 4-5 times daily, frequent opportunities are afforded for the excursion. Stations on the E. Bank (those are printed in Italics , with which the steamers do not communicate regularly •, those in wider print have piers ; for particulars see the Horaire pour la Navigation d vapeur du Lac Majeur ”, which may be obtained at ale the principal inns on the banks): Magadino, Maccagno , Luino, Porto (Val Travaglia) , Laveno , Sesto Calende-, on the W. Bank: Locarno, Ascona , Brissago, Canobbio, Cannero, OggebbiO, Ghiffa, Intra, Pal- lanza, Suna , Feriolo , Baveno , Isola Bella , Stresa, Belgirate, Lesa, Mein a, Arona. — On board the boats from (Sesto Calende and Arona to Magadino, agents of the innkeepers at Magadino offer to prOvid) 174 Route 21. lago maggiore. ™; r „ S s ,T4 h ° arriaees f0r the Got.hard, see p. 47 5 Islands” “* * b ° a * » r^:::xzz^ h 7 isv* r h ro r at Stresa and 4en„ Tt - - » £; sr rrr ^ t F“ ~ - - = they reduee the/r terms 7e the time forX a T" dema,I h>cL faresTr 3 V1fr ‘ 3 0 f r TO 6 V° "“f by 0allarata *■ 1 hr.5mi„. ; in 3-4 hrs.; fares' lo’fr 7 l 20 1 f/7c I” Mila ” by delay frequently takes place at Novara Railwav^iclft and R ; 24; a long on board the steamboats. W y * kets ma y be procured tp. e hrs - *» D ° m » *-o»ou - From Luino Swiss diligence daily in 23/ T TV" 6 Sim P lo “ »■ 3). - From Magadino (in W/! hr) aid T „ A \‘° bUgan0 - sea P-167, gence twice daiiy to XlUnzona tst p %y t 7 nc 7 4 taJ Swi ?» d “- daily over the St. Gotthard to Lucerne toHi’hra m if “T" 1 " *"“* over the Bernardino to Coire in 17 hrs. (BB (‘sj. 4 ’ 0nCe daily Lago Kaggiore (606 ft., greatest depih 2666 ft.), the Lacus Verbanus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length and avelages 3 M in wi th. The canton of Ticino possesses only the N. bank for a distance of 9 M.; this portion of the lakeX also cal d th or Locarno. The W. hank beyond the brook Val ma ra, and the E. bank fiom Zenna belong to Italy. Its principal tributaries E X X « on tbe w • ‘be Tosa, on the Tresa, flowing from the Lake of Lugano. The river which emerges from the S. extremity of the lake retains the rL mlir'" a t The a N 'i bantS Sre b ° Bnded b ? ** -uSaii for the most part wooded, whilst the E. shore towards the lower extremity slopes gradually away to the level of the plains of om ar y e W. bank affords a succession of charming land- scapes. The water is of a green colour in its N. arm, and deep blue towards the S. P r T X Steamboat leaves Magadino, the most N. harbour IP- b4 J> and steers first N.W. to LOCARNO. 22. Route. 175 Locarno (651 ft.) (* Corona , on the lake; *Albergo Svizzero , higher up in the town, clean), one of the three capitals of the Canton Ticino with 2982 inhab., alternately with Bellinzona (p. 55) and Lugano (p. 169) the seat of the government, situa- ted on the W. bank of Lago Maggiore , at the mouth of the Maggia. Politically Locarno is Swiss, but the character of the scenery and of the population is thoroughly Italian. The Colle- giate Church contains several good paintings. The new and handsome Government Buildings are contiguous to a large Piazza and a public garden. Delightful view from the * Madonna del Sasso (1089 ft.), a pilgrimage church with chapels on a rocky and wooded eminence above the town. On the principal market-day (every alternate Thursday) a va- riety of the most picturesque costumes from the Canton of Ti- cino, Lombardy and Piedmont may be observed. Great national festival on Sept. 8th, the Nativity of the Virgin. The boat now follows the W. bank, passes Ascona with its • castle und seminary, Ronco und Brissago (*Albergo Antico) , a delightful spot, with picturesque white houses conspicuous from a great distance and an avenue of cypresses' leading to the church. The slopes above the village are covered with fig-trees, olives and pomegranates; even the myrtle flourishes in the open air. Then 5. Agata and Canobbio (Serpente). The latter, one of the oldest and most prosperous villages on the lake , is situated on a promontory at the entrance of the Val Canobbino and enclosed by richly wooded mountains. The steamer now steers for the E. bank and touches at Luino ( Hotel du Simplon ; Posta , On the lake), a village with the cha- teau of Grivelli surrounded by pines, the station for Lugano (comp, p. 169). On the W. bank rise two grotesque looking castles (Cas- telli di Cannero), still partially preserved, the property of Count Borromeo. In the 15th cent, they harboured the five brothers Mazzarda, notorious brigands, the terror of the district. Cannero is beautifully situated in the midst of vineyards and olive-plan- tations, which extend far up the slopes of the mountain. The entire W. bank is clothed with the most luxuriant vegetation, and studded with, innumerable white habitations and a succession of picturesque villages. 176 Route 22. INTRA. Lago Maggiore. As the steamboat approaches Intra, a rotunda with a statue, belonging to the Villa Prima, becomes visible on a projecting rock. The valley which here opens to the W. suddenly dis- closes a most striking view of the N. neighbours of Monte Rosa: the Cima di Jazi, Strahlhorn and the Mischabel (14,032 ft.) with its three peaks. They disappear as the steamboat turns the point between Intra and Pallanza, but soon become visible again and remain in view until Isola Bella is reached. From the island itself they are concealed by the mountains of the valley of the Tosa. Intra ( Vitello cCOro), a flourishing town with a number of manufactories, principally founded by Swiss, is situated on allu- vial soil between the mouths of two mountain-streams, the 8. Gio- vanni and 8. Bernardino. Omnibus daily between Intra, Pal- lanza, Gravellona, Omegna and Orta, comp. R. 23. Opposite to Intra, in a bay on the E. bank, is situated Laveno ( *Posta , r. of the harbour, some distance inland; Moro ; Stella) , a harbour formerly strongly fortified by the Austrians. The most beautiful mountain on the entire lake is II Sasso del Ferro (3337 ft.), which rises behind Laveno and commands a magnificent view of the lake, the plain as far as Milan and the vast snow-summits of the Monte Rosa chain. The five-peaked summit of Monte Rosa is also visible from the neighbourhood of Laveno. Charming survey of the lake and mountains from Fort Garibaldi , II/2 M. from Laveno. — Omnibus daily to Varese and Como (p. 157). On the promontory of 8. Remigio , which here projects into the lake, stands a church on the site of an ancient Roman temple of Venus. This is the widest part of the lake. The little Isola S. Giovanni, one of the Borromean group, with its chapel, house and gardens, is the property of the canons of Pallanza. Pallanza (Posta, at the wharf; Italia ), the seat of the autho- rities of the province, is a thriving little town (2950 inhab.), most delightfully situated opposite the Borromean Islands. Boat with two rowers to the islands and back 4 fr. , an excursion of 3 hrs. ; to Baveno 3 fr. ; Diligence to Domo d’Ossola in 5 hrs., on the arrival of the boat from Magadino. Omnibus to Orta, see above. The lake here forms an expansive bay, 41/2 M. long and 21/4 M. wide, extending in a N.W. direction, at the N. extremity of which is the influx of the impetuous Tosa. Pallanza (see above) and Sima are situated on the N.E. bank; on the S.W. bank Feriolo (Leone d’Oro) where the Simplon- road leaves the lake (8 hrs. from Domo d’Ossola, see p. 46), and Baveno (*Beaurivage; * Bellevue)^ 3 M. to the N.W. of Isola Bella, the usual point LagoMaggiore . BORROMEAN ISLANDS. 22. Route. 177 of embarkation for the Borromean Islands for travellers from the Simplon. Boats see p. 174. Those who prefer the steamboat to the Isola Bella (see p. 173) should select Stresa (p. 178) as their starting-point, as the steamers seldom touch at Baveno. The steamboats rarely call at any of the stations on the large W. bay of the lake ; they generally pass the Isola Madre, and touch at the Isola Bella. The group of the so-called Borro- mean Islands consists of Isola Bella , Isola dei Pescatori or Superiore, Isola Madre , and, farthest to the N., Isola S. Giovanni. The first and third of these belong to the Borromeo family, the second to the fishermen who inhabit it; the fourth, see p. 176. Count Vitaleo Borromeo (d. 1690) erected a chateau on Isola Bella, and converted the barren rock into beautiful gardens, rising on 10 terraces 100 ft. above the lake, and containing the most luxuriant products of the south; lemon-trees, cedars, mag- nolias, cypresses, orange-trees, laurels, magnificent oleanders etc. The evening light is most favourable for the charming prospect which is here enjoyed. Grottoes of shells, fountains (dry), mosaics, statues etc. meet the eye in profusion, hut in questio- nable taste. The Chateau , the size of which is quite disproportionate to the extent of the island, is richly decorated , and contains a Collection of Pictures more numerous than valuable. The N. wing is in ruins. The view through the arches of the long galleries under the chateau is very striking. A domestic hurries visitors through the apartments (fee 50 c. — 1 fr. for each pers.), and con- signs them to a gardener, who shows the garden with equal dispatch for a similar fee. Adjacent to the chateau is the com- fortable *Hotel du Dauphin or Delfino (R. 2, L. y 2 , B. 1, D. at 4 o’cl. 4, A. 3 / 4 fr., Pension 7 — 8 fr.). The steamboats do not always touch at Isola Bella; comp, the “ Orario ”, mentioned p. 173. Excursion of 2 hrs. by boat to the other islands with one rower 27 2 , with two 5 fr. The Isola Madre on its S. side resembles the Isola Bella, and is laid out in 7 terraces with lemon and orange-trellises; on the upper terrace , a dilapidated Palazzo. On the N. side, it is laid out with walks in the English style, which render it a pleasanter resort than the Isola Bella. On the rocks on the S. side are many beautiful aloes, some of which are generally in flower (fee 1 fr.). — The Isola dei Pescatori is entirely Baedeker. Italy I. .12 178 Route 22. STRESA. Lago Maggiore. occupied by a small fishing-village, the single open space being just sufficient for drying the nets. The scenery of the Borromean Islands rivals that of the Lake of Como in grandeur, and perhaps surpasses it in softness of character. Monte Rosa is not visible ; the snow-mountains to the N.W. are the glaciers and peaks of the Simplon; of the nearer mountains the most conspicuous are the white granite-rocks near Baveno (p. 46). The traveller coming from the N. cannot fail to he struck with the loveliness of these banks, studded" with innumerable habitations, and clothed with southern vegetation (chest- nuts, mulberries, vines, figs, olives) ; the extensive lake with its deep blue waters, and the beautiful girdle of snowy mountains, combining the stern grandeur of the High Alps and the charms of a southern clime. Rousseau at one time intended to make the Borromean Islands the scene of his “Nouvelle Heloise”, but considered them too artificial for his romance, in which human nature is portrayed with such a masterly hand. About 5 min. after quitting the Isola Bella, the steamboat (best means of communication, see p. 173) stops at the village of Stresa [Hotel des lies Borromees (diligence office) l/l'M. to the 1ST., recommended for a prolonged stay, boat ll/ 2 for the first, 1 fr. for each subsequent hr.; Albergo Reale, Ital. inn; one-horse car r. to Domo d’Ossola for 1 pers. 15, 2 pers. 20 fr.; two-horse 30 fr. ; to Arona with one horse 6 fr. ; carriages for the Simplon route to Sion may also be procured]; The handsome modern edifice half-way up the mountain is a Rosminian Monastery , where Bishop Rosmini, founder of the order, died in 1855. At the-N. extremity of the village is the JPalaZzo Bolongaro. Beautiful cypresses in the Churchyard. — Guide to Monte Motterone (p. 180) 5 fr. As the boat pursues its course along the W. bank, the con- struction of the high-road, in many places supported by piers of masonry, attracts attention from the difficulties which had to be surmounted. The banks become gradually flatter, and Monte Rosa makes its appearance in the W. The boat touches at Belgirate (Grand Hotel du Port-Franc) and Lesa on the W. bank, and finally stops at the Arona station. Arona (*Albergo Reale, *Italia, both near the steamboat- quay ; Cafd adjoining the Albergo Reale; Caf6 du Lac by the quay. At all these establishments the charges generally depend on previous stipulation), an ancient town on the W. bank, with 3153 inhab., extends up- wards on the slope of the hill. In the principal church of S. Maria , the chapel of the Borromean family, r. of the highaltar, contains an * Altar-piece, the Holy Family, a genuine work of Qaudenzio Vinci ; it is surrounded by 5 smaller pictures, the upper repre- senting God the Father, at the sides 8 saints and the donor. Lago Maggiore. SESTO CALENDE. 22. Route. 179 On a height overlooking the entire district, 1 / 2 hr. N. of the station and pier, is a colossal *Statue of S. Carlo , 66 ft. in height, resting on a pedestal 40 ft. high, erected 1697 in honour of the celebrated Cardinal, Count Carlo Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, born here in 1538, died 1584, canonized 1610. The head, hands, and feet of the statue are of bronze, the robe of wrought copper. Notwithstanding its enormous dimensions, the statue is not devoid of artistic merit. The various parts are held together by iron clamps, and by stout masonry in the interior. By means of ladders, kept in readiness in the neighbourhood (fee) , thd lower part of the robe can be attained on the W. side, whence the interior may be entered. The ven- turesome climber may now ascend by means of iron bars to the head of the statue, which will accommodate 3 persons. A window is introduced at the back of the statue. The suffocating heat and the bats which infest the interior render the ascent far from an enjoyable undertaking. The adjacent church contains a few relics of S. Carlo. The long and spacious building adjoining it is a Seminary for priests. The handsome chateau above Angera, on the E. bank of the lake opposite to Arona, belongs to Count Borromeo. Railway from Arona by Novara to Milan, Genua and Turin see RR. 24, 18. From Arona the steamboat proceeds to Sesto Calende (Posta), situated at the S.E. extremity of the Lago Maggiore, on the 1. bank of the Ticino which here emerges from the lake and forms the boundary between Piedmont and Lombardy. Before the Peace of Villafranca (p. 209) it was the boundary between Sardinia and Austria. The Railway from Sesto Calende to Milan (comp, p. 174) leads to Gallarate, which was long the terminus of the line from Milan. On the hills to the r. lies Somma, midway between Sesto and Gallarate, where, in B. C. 218, Hannibal de- feated the Roman general P. Corn. Scipio. The country is sandy and unfruitful as far as the vicinity of Gallarate , an important place at the S.E. base of a chain of hills. Hence to Milan the line traverses a broad and fertile plain, covered with maize, plantations of mulberries and occa- sional trellised vineyards. Next stat. Busto Arsizio , the church of which, designed by Bramante, contains frescoes by' Gaudenzio Ferrari. Then stat. Legnano , where in 1175 Frederick Barba- Tossa was defeated by the Milanese. Stat. Pardbiago. Stat. Rho 12 * 180 Route 23. MONTE MOTTERONE. (p. 143) possesses a church (Madonna dei Miracoli) by Pellegrini, which howewer remained unfinished till near the middle of the present century. Last stat. Musocco. Milan see R. -19. Omnibuses and fiacres see p. 144. ' ' ' ; - J ^ v : V;. f'~ 23. From the Xsola Bella to Varallo. Monte Motterone. Lake of Orta. Val di Sesia. Three days suffice for a visit to this comparatively unfrequented mountainous district, one of the most attractive among the S. Alps. Tra- vellers from the Simplon (R. 3), after visiting the Borromean Islands, should commence this excursion at Stresa (p. 178) and terminate it at Aron a. Or Gravellona (p. 46) may he taken as the starting-point and Stresa as the termination, in which case the route between Orta and Varallo must be traversed twice. From Stresa or Isola Bella to Orta 7, from Orta to Varallo 5 hrs.y from Varallo to Arona or Novara a drive of about 6 hrs. — A guide (4 fr. to the summit of the pass , 8 fr. to Orta, and gratuity , Giov. Morandi at Baveno speaks French) should be taken at least as far as the culminating point, or the chalets , especially if the ascent of the mountain (strongly recommended in fine weather, 2 hrs. additional) be contemplated. Provisions should also be taken, as milk is almost the only refreshment to be obtained on the route. A guide is more easily procured at Stresa than on the island. Mules may be hired at Orta at somewhat exorbitant charges. The Monte Motterone, a long mountain-ridge , separates the Lago Maggiore from the Lago d’Orta. The footpath which traver- ses it from Stresa to Orta commences opposite the island, at the landing-place of the small boats, and ascends rapidly for V 2 hr. on the r. bank of the brook to the village. It then leads through a plantation of chestnuts, towards the N., for V 2 hr. more, com- manding a beautiful view of the Lago Maggiore. On emerging from the wood the path ascends W., traversing heath and pas- ture; in Va h r - it passes three rocks, crosses the brook and ( 3 / 4 hr.) reaches the small Ristorante all’ Alpe Volpe (excellent milk), 10 min. below the culminating point of the pass. The summit of the mountain may be attained hence in 1 hr. The extensive prospect commanded by the summit of *Monte Motterone (4519 ft.) or Margozzolo , which might be termed the Rigi of the S. Alps, embraces the entire amphitheatre of mountains from Monte Rosa to the Ortler in the Tyrol. To the r. of Monte Rosa appear the snow-mountains of Monte Moro, Pizzo di Bottarello, Simplon, Monte Leone, Gries and St. Gotthard, farther E. the conical Stella above Chiavenna, and the long, im- posing ice-range of the Bernina, which separates the Val Bregaglia (p. 61) from the Valtellina (p. 71). At the spectator’s feet lie six different lakes, the Lake of Orta, Lago Maggiore, Lago di Monate, Lago di Gomabbio, Lago SACRO MONTE. 23. Route. 181 di Biandrone and Lago di Varese ; farther to the r. stretch the extensive plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, in the centre of which rises the lofty cathedral of Milan. The Ticino and the Sesia meander like silver threads through the plains, and by a singular optical delusion frequently appear to traverse a lofty table-land. The simultaneous view of the Isola Madre in Lago Maggiore and the Isola S. Giulio in the Lake of Orta has a remar- kably picturesque effect. The mountain itself consists of a number of barren summits, studded with occasional chalets, shaded by trees. At its base the mountain is encircled by chestnut- trees , and the foliage and luxuriant vegetation of the landscape far and wide impart a peculiar charm to the picture. At the chalets, 10 rain, from the above-mentioned sign-post, milk may be procured; (15 min.) the solitary church of Ma- donna di Lucciago, (45 min.) Chegmo , (15 min.) Armeno , (40 min.) Masino are successively passed, and (30 min.) the high-road is reached ( 3 / 4 M. from Orta) near the Pension Ronchetti Posta. A short distance beyond the latter a path diverges from the road to the r., ascending in 10 min. to the Sacro Monte (see below), which may now in passing be most conveniently visited. Orta (1140 ft.) (_* Leone d’Oro; Hotel St. Jules, one-horse carr. to Gravellona 8 fr., both on the wharf), a small town with narrow streets, paved with marble slabs, is most picturesquely situated on a promontory extending into the lake, at the base of a pre- cipitous cliff. At the S, entrance of the town is the handsome villa of the Marquis Natta of Novara. Above Orta rises the *Sacro Monte (ascent between the two hotels), a beautifully wooded eminence, laid out as a park, on which 20 chapels were erected in the 16th cent, in honour of S. Francis of Assisi, each containing a scene from the life of the saint. The life-size figures are composed of terra cotta, highly coloured, with a background al fresco; as a whole, though destitute of artistic worth, the representations are animated and effective. The best groups are in the 13th, 16th and 20th chapels, the latter representing the canonization of the saint and the assembly of car- dinals. Th e * Tower on the summit of the hill commands an admirable panorama; the snowy peak of Monte Rosa rises to the W. above the lower intervening mountains. The “ Eremita del Monte" expects a fee of 1 fr., for showing the above-mentioned three chapels. A good road on the E. bank of the lake connects Orta with (7 1 / 2 M.) Omegna (*Posta) at the N. extremity of the lake, and (4 V 2 M.) Gravellona on the Simplon route (p. 46). A boat (2 fr.) with one rower conveys the traveller from Orta to Omegna in iy 2 hr. Omnibus from Omegna to Pallanza (p. 176), fare l 1 /^ fr. 182 Route 23. LAKE OF ORTA. From Orta to Arona omnibus (27 2 fr.) daily in 3 hrs. by Buccione , a village at the S. extremity of the lake of Orta, high above which on the wooded height rises the handsome tower of the former Oastello di Buccione ; Gozzano (on the eminence to the 1. stands Bolzano, an episcopal chateau with a church and semi- nary); Borgomanero (see below) and Oleggio Costello. Railway from Gozzano to Novara (in iy 4 hr.; fares 4 fr., 2 fr. 80 e., 2 fr.) by Borgomanero (Rama Secca), a hand- some town with 10,000 inhab., Momo and Caltignaga. In the Lake of Orta (IV2 in width, 9 M. in length) , opposite to Orta, rises the rocky island of S. Giulio, covered with trees and groups of houses. The Church, founded by St. Julius, who came from Greece in 379 to convert the inhabitants of this district to Christianity, has been frequently restored; it contains columns of porphyry, a mosaic pavement, several good reliefs, some ancient frescoes and in the sacristy a Madonna by Gaudenzio Ferrari. The bone of a whale is exhibited to the credulous as a vertebra of a huge serpent destroyed on the island by St. Julius. S. Giulio is the seat of an ecclesiastical seminary. Boat to the island and back 1 fr. On the W. bank of the lake, opposite the island, the white houses of the village of Pella peep from the midst of vineyards and groves of chestnut and walnut-trees. Passage from Orta to Pella, when the boatmen diverge from the. direct route to a point whence the entire lake may be surveyed, 2 fr. with 2 rowers. A path towards the S. winds upwards from Pella, through a grove of chestnut and fruit trees, in 20 min. to the Madonna del Sasso , the pictu- resque church of the village of Boletto. An open space by the church, on the verge of a precipice several hundred feet above the lake, commands a fine prospect. At Pella mules may be procured for the journey over the Colma to Varallo (5 hrs., guide unnecessary). A steep path as- cends the hill to the W., traverses luxuriant gardens of vines, figs, pumpkins and fruit-trees ; after 12 min. the ascent to the r. must be avoided ; the path pursues a straight direction and soon descends. The Pellino , a mountain-torrent descending from the Colma, forms (5 min.) a picturesque waterfall. Beautiful retro- spective views of the lake. The path now ascends through a shady wood, between disintegrated blocks of granite which crumble beneath the touch, to the Col di Colma (2y 2 hrs. from Pella), a ridge connecting Monte Pizzigone with Monte Ginistrella. The prospect of the Alps is beautiful , embracing Monte Rosa, the lakes of Orta and Varese and the plain of Lombardy. The VARALLO. 23. Route. 183 entire route is beautiful. In descending on tbe W. side (r., not to the 1.) the traveller overlooks the fruitful Val Sesia , with its numerous villages. The path, again traversing groves of chestnut and walnut-trees, carpeted with turf and wild-flowers, now leads through the Val Duggia to (1 hr.) Civiasco and (1 hr.) Varallo (1219 ft.) (*Italia; Posta ; Falcone Nero), the principal village in the valley of the Sesia, which is frequently dry in summer. The old town and the Sacro Monte, when seen through the arches of the bridge, have an extremely picturesque aspect. The *Sacro Monte, the object of numerous pilgrimages, rises in the immediate vicinity of the town. It is attained in 1/4. hr. by a path sha- ded by beautiful trees, but the enjoyment is somewhat diminished by the importunities of numerous beggars. The summit, surmounted by a chapel and crucifix, commands a magnificent view. Besides the church, fountains etc., there are in all 46 Chapels or Oratories on the Sacro Monte, many of them buried among the trees. They all contain representations of scenes from the life of the Saviour, in terra cotta, with life-size figures arranged in groups. Each chapel is devoted to a different subject; the 1st, for example, the Fall, the 2nd the Annunciation, and so on to the 46th, which contains the Entombment of the Virgin. Some of the frescoes by Pelegrino Tibaldi and Gaudenzio Ferrari are well worthy of inspection ; even the external decorations aVe not entirely devoid of interest. This “Nuova Gerusalemme nel Sacro Monte di Varallo ” was founded by Bernar- dino Caloto, a Milanese nobleman, with the sanction of Pope Innocent VIII. As a resort of pilgrims, it did not come into vogue until after the visits of Cardinal Borromeo (p. 179) in 1578 and 1584, from which period most of the chapels date. Varallo is admirably adapted as bead-quarters for excursions to the neighbouring valleys ; it is easily accessible, and in beauty and grandeur of scenery surpassed by no other Alpine district (compare Baedeker's Switzerland 0. The carriage-road to Arona descends the picturesque valley of the Sesia to (6 M.) Borgo-Sesia , (7y 2 M.) Romagnano (Post); quitting the Val Sesia, it then crosses the mountains to (7y 2 M.) Borgomanero, and (6 M.) Arona (p. 178). — Omnibus twice daily from Varallo to Novara (p. 141). 24. From Arona to Genoa. Railway in 5 — 6 hrs.; fares 19 fr. 65, 13 fr. 10, 9 fr. 85 c. ; no lug- gage free except small articles carried in the hand. Second-class car- riages comfortable. Good railway refreshment -rooms at Novara and Alessandria. The Apennines, here penetrated by the most laborious and skilful railway engineering (estimated cost 135 million fr., i. e. 184 Route 24. VIGEVANO. From Arona 5,400,000 lj, and a glimpse at the Mediterranean and Genoa (6 hrs. journey form Lago Maggiore), form, next to Venice, one ol the most attractive routes in N. Italy. The railway at first commands picturesque views, to the 1. of the S. extremity of Lago Maggiore (p, 174) and the mountains of the Bnanza (p. 156). Numerous cuttings and embankments. A flat, agricultural district is, however, soon reached and extends as far as Alessandria. The Ticino, here the boundary between ledmont and Lombardy, flows at some distance to the 1. The two first stations are Borgo-Ticino and Oleggio (to the r. a fine glimpse of the Monte Rosa chain). Then stat. Novara (p. ), where the Arona and Genoa line is crossed hy that from Milan to Turin (R. 18); trains to Milan in l Duomo Nuovo. BRESCIA. 28. Route. 193 Brescia (482 ft.) vied with Milan at the commencement of the 16t,h cent, as one of the wealthiest cities of Lombardy, but in 1512 was sacked and burned by the French under Gaston de Foix , after an obstinate defence. Five years later Brescia was restored to the dominions of Yenice, to which it belonged till 1797, but it has never recovered its ancient importance. On April 1st, 1849, the town was bombarded and taken by the- Austrians under Haynau , traces of which event are still visible on many of the buildings. The town, with 35,000 inhab. and numerous iron -works, is delightfully situated at the base of the Alps. Previous to the events of 1848 the town and its environs constituted a vast ma- nufactory of weapons (“Brescia I’armata”), which furnished a large proportion of the arms used by the Austrian army. At the present day its energies are devoted to the service of Italy. The Duomo Nuovo (PI. 5), or episcopal cathedral, commenced in 1604, the dome not finally completed till 1825, is one of the best churches of that period. By the first pillar on the r. is the large ^monument of Bishop Nava (d. 1831), with groups in marble and a relief by Monti of Ravenna; by the first pillar on the 1. the monument of Bishop Ferrari. The second altar on the r. is adorned with modern statues in marble of Faith by Selaroni, and Hope, by Emanueli , and a modern painting, Christ, healing the sick, by Gregoletti. Then (3rd altar on the r.) a sarcophagus with reliefs, date about 1500, containing “ Corpora D. D. Apol- lonii et Philastn ,, , transferred hither in 1674 from the crypt of the old cathedral. High altar-piece an Assumption by Zoboli, de- signed by Conca. In the dome the 4 Evangelists in marble. The Duomo Vecchio , commonly termed La Rotonda (PI. 6) ? situated on low ground on the S, side of the Duomo Nuovo, is used in winter only for divine service. In summer it is shown by the sacristan (V 2 -f£.)_Qf the new cathedral (whose dwelling is at the back of the choir of the latter). This massive struc- ture is circular, as its name implies, and surmounted by a dome. The pillars are painted so as to resemble columns. Substructure very ancient, supposed to date from the 9th cent. The dome and cupola date from the 12th cent., the addition at the back is of a later period. At the second altar on the r. is the monument of Bishop Lambertino (d. 1349) with ieliefs. Altarpiece an As- Bsedeker. Italy I. 13 194 Route 28. BRESCIA. Broletto. sumption by Moretto. Beneath the circular part of the edifice is the crypt, or Basilica di S. Filastrio, supported by 42 columns. The Broletto (PI. 2), adjoining the cathedral on the N., is a heavy and extensive building of the 12th cent., subsequent additions to which have almost entirely obliterated its original form. It was anciently the seat of the municipal authorities and is now occupied by courts of judicature. A portion of it serves as a prison. The campanile on the S. side, termed La Torre del Popolo , appertains to the original edifice. On the E. side of the Duomo Nuovo is the entrance to the *Biblioteca Quiriniana (or Biblioteca Comunale, PI. 19; fee V 2 fr*)> comprising 40,000 vols., bequeathed to the town in 1750 by Car- dinal Quirini Several curiosities are preserved in a separate cabinet. An Evangelarium of the 9th cent, with gold letters on purple vel- lum ; a Koran in 12 vols , adorned with miniatures and gilding’, a *cross 4 ft. in height (Croce Magna), of gold, decorated with cameos and jewels and portraits of the Empress Galla Placidia and her sons Honorius and Valentinian III., resembling modern miniatures, the whole a most valuable specimen of the workmanship of the 4th cent. 5 a small cross adorned with gold and pearls and a fragment of the “True Cross”, said to have been worn by St. Helena. The Lipsanoteca , carved in ivory, a cross composed of the sides of an ancient relic-casket, with represen- tations from Scripture of the 4th or 5th cent. The Dittico Quiriniano, carved in ivory, presented by Pope Paul II., and other diptychs (ivory tablets With reliefs). Several calendars carved on a staff. Two caskets con- taining letters which passed between Napoleon and Canova. — In a sepa- rate room old Books of the Gospels with miniatures-, a MS. of Dante on parchment, with miniatures; a Petrarch of 1470 with various illustra- tions (“Petrarca figurato^) and written annotations; a Dante with notes, printed at Brescia in 1487; the Codice Eusebiano , a concordance of the 11th cent, with miniatures ; Madonna painted on lapis lazuli by Titian. The *Museo Patrio (PI. 17), accessible gratis 11 — 3 o’clock daily; on Sund. and holidays and during the vacations, Sept, and Oct., on payment of a fee), is established in the three (restored) cellse of a Corinthian temple of Hercules, excavated in 1812 } erected by Vespasian, according to inscriptions of A. D. 72. The lofty substructures, the steps, the bases and portions of the shafts of the columns, in white marble, are still well preserved. The principal Celia contains inscriptions and mosaic pavements. In the hall on the r. are mediaeval and other curiosities, ornaments, the mo- nument of Count Pitigliano, weapons, medals (those of the Napoleonic period very numerous). In the hall on the 1. ancient sculptures, the most valuable of which is a fine statue of **Yictory, excavated in 1826, a bronze figure about 6 ft. in height, with a silver wreath of laurel round the head, Galleria Tosi. BRESCIA. 28. Route. 195 in the left hand a shield on which she is about to write, beneath the 1. foot a helmet $ this is one of the rarest existing specimens of the ancient Greek plastic art. Also a number of coins and medals, ornaments, busts in gilded bronze etc. The *Galleria Tosi (or Museo Civico, PI. 21), Contrada Tosi, Quartiere VIII., No. 596 (accessible daily 11 — 3 o’clock, on Sundays and festivals and during the vacations, Sept, and Oct., on payment of a fee), bequeathed with the palace to the town by Count Tosi, contains a number of ancient and modern pictures, drawings, engravings, modern sculptures etc. in a series of small apartments. In a room on the ground -floor the Laocoon , a group in marble by Ferrari ; bust of Galileo by Monti ; copies of Canova’s colossal busts of himself and Napoleon, by Gandolfi. — In the ante -chamber on the first, floor a bust of Count Tosi by Monti. — 1st Room: Andrea del Sarto (?), Holy Family, Fra Bartolommeo, Holy Family. — 2nd R. : Moretto , Tullia d’Arragona and Annunciation; Francesco Francia , Madonna; Lor. Lotto , Nativity; Moretto , The disciples at Emmaus. — 3rd R. : Albano , Venus and the Graces; Clouet , Henry III. of France; Giorgione , Nativity (formerly in the old cathedral); Cesare da Sesto , Youthful Christ (?); Ann. Caracci, St. Francis; **RaphaeVs celebrated Pieta, a small and exquisite work re- presenting Christ crowned with thorns. — Cabinets with interesting dra- wings and engravings (by A. Ditrer etc.). — 4th R.: Migliara , La Certosa near Pavia; Borsato , Winter at Venice; Vernet , Night; Basiletti , Ischia; Canella, Dyeing - works ; Granet , Choir with monks. — In the adjacent cabinet a bust of Eleonora d’Este, by Canova; in the passage a boy trea- ding out grapes, by Bartolini. — Corridor with drawings. — In the chapel a statue of the youthful Saviour, by Marchesi. — 5th R. : Baruzzi , Silvia, statue in marble. — 6th R. : Canella , Night, and other pictures by the same master; Azeglio , Episode from Ariosto. — 7th R. : Basiletti , Ital. lands- capes. — 8th R.: Day and Night, reliefs by Thorwaldsen. — 9th R.: Marble statues: Gandolfi , Genius of Music; Thorwaldsen , Ganymede ; *Pampaloni, Boy praying; Gherardo of Obstal, Sacrifice of Abraham; Franceschetti , Flora. — 10th — 13th Rooms: Modern pictures: Hayez , Jacob and Esau; Appiani , Madonna; Palagi , Newton; Belzuoli , Copy of Raphael’s School of Athens; Podesti , Tasso at the court of Ferrara ; LHotti, Death of Ugolino ; Schiavoni , Raphael and the Fornarina; Hayez , Departure of the Greeks etc. S. Clemente (PI. 20), near the Tosi Gallery to the S., is a small church containing the tomb of the painter Alessandro Bon- vicini , surnamed Moretto (d. 1564), a monument recently erec- ted to him and five of his works : r. 2nd altar, SS. Cecilia, Bar- bara and Lucia; 1. 1st altar, S. Ursula; 2nd altar, S. Jerome: 3rd altar, Abraham and Melchisedech ; *high altar-piece, S. Cle- ment and other saints. Moretto is a highly esteemed master; one of his pictures, representing Fathers of the church, was 13 * 196 Route 28. BRESCIA. Palazzo Comunale. purchased in 1847 by the Stadel Institute at Frankfurt for 35,000 fl (3000 l.). *S. Afra (PI. 1) was erected in 1580 on the site of a temple of Saturn. 1st altar on the r., Nativity of Mary, by Bagnadore ; 2nd altar , Baptism of S. Afra, by Bassano ; 3rd altar, Assump- tion by Passerotti. Over the S. door, Martyrdom of several saints, by Barussorci. 4th altar, Yirgin, S. Latinus, S. Carlo and many other saints, a confused crowd of figures, all of the same size, by Procaccini. High altar-piece, Ascension, in which dhe blue of the sky is somewhat too predominant, by Tintoretto. Over the N. door, *Christ and the adulteress, by Titian, one of the great artist’s finest works (generally covered). Over the N. altars: Christ in the house of Simon the Pharisee , by Alessandro Ma- ganza ; ^Martyrdom of St. Afra, by P. Veronese ; Brescian martyrs, by Palma Oiovine. S. Nazaro e Celso (PI. 13), near the gate leading to the railway-station, erected in 1780, contains several good pictures. *High altar-piece by Titian, in five sections, the Resurrection being the principal subject, on the r. St. Sebastian and St. Ro- chus, 1. St. Nazarus and St. Celsus with the portrait of the person for whom the picture was painted, above these the An- nunciation. Over the 1st altar on the 1. the ^Coronation of the Yirgin by Moretto ; over the 2nd altar on the 1. Nativity, with S. Nazaro and S. Celso, also by Moretto. Madonna dei Miracoli (PI. 22), not far from S. Nazaro, is a small church with four domes and richly decorated facade in the early Renaissance style, erected towards the close of the 15th cent.; over the 1st. altar on the r. a ^Madonna and Child, with St. Nicholas, by Moretto. The *Palazzo Comunale (PI. 16), usually termed La Loggia, situated in the handsome Piazza Yecchia, is the town-hall of Brescia, erected by Formentone in 1508 on the ruins of a temple of Yulcan, and completed in the latter half of the 16th cent, by Jacopo Sansovino and Palladio. The exterior of this impo- sing structure is somewhat overladen with ornament. In the angles of the arches of the lower part is a series of busts of Roman emperors as medallions. In front of this edifice rises a monument, erected by the king in 1864, in honour of the natives of Brescia who fell during the gallant defence of their town ISEO. 29. Route. 197 against the Austrians in the insurrection of 1849, or were sub- sequently shot by order of Haynau. On the opposite side of the Piazza, above an arcade, rises the Torre dell’ Orologio, or clock-tower, with a large dial mar- king the hours according to the Italian computation (1 to 24). The bell is struck by two iron figures as in the clock at Venice (p. 240). The *Campo Santo , V 2 outside the Porta S. Giovanni, is one of the finest in N. Italy. It is approached by a triple avenue of cypresses diverging to the 1. from the high road (see below). The long halls, with niches resembling the colum- baria of the ancients, were erected in 1815. Beyond the chapel in the centre new halls have been constructed. In the interve- ning spaces rises a rotunda terminating in a column, at the back of which is a mortuary chapel. — Fine view from the gate of the Castello. 29. From Brescia to Tirano in the Valtellina. Lago d’Iseo. Monte Aprica. Distance about 78V 2 M. From Brescia post - omnibus daily at an 1 early hour from the Albergo Reale, halting at Pisogne 1 hr. and at Breno 1 hr. and arriving at Edolo in the evening, fare 7 fr. Diligence from Edolo o Tirano (4 fr.) 3 times weekly; one-horse carr. about 10 fr. There is a so diligence-communication between Brescia and Tirano, but generally by night only. This direct route is recommended to the notice of t.rave ers who are already acquainted with the Lake of Como and desire to reach the upper Yal Tellina and the Stelvio or Bernina from Brescia, the sce- nery from Iseo onwards is beautiful the whole way. The omnibus quits Brescia by the Porta S. Giovanni (to the. 1. is the avenue of cypresses leading to the Campo Santo , see above) and after a drive of */ 2 hr. diverges to the r. from the Milan road. The country is flat. Camignone is first reached; then, near Provaglio , the mountainous region is attained. On tne mountain to the r. rises the white church of the Madonna del Como. 11 1/ 2 M. Iseo (*Leone), situated on the lake of that name, is a busy place of some importance. Steamboat once daily in IV 2 hr - t0 Lovere (twice on market-days, Thursd. and Sat.), but not in correspondence with the post-omnibus from Brescia, which does not touch the W. bank of the lake. Another omni- bus runs from Lovere to Edolo. Travellers from the Passo 198 Route 29. PISOGNE. From Brescia d’Aprica and the Yal Camonica may cross the lake from Pisogne to Lovere ( 4 / 2 fr.) and proceed thence by steamboat (generally at night only) to Lovere. The *Lago d’Iseo ( Lacus Sebinus, 582 ft. above the sea-level, greatest depth 920 ft.), about 15 M. in length from SarnicO (Leone d’Oro), at the S.W. extremity , to Lovere at the N. extre- mity, and averaging 1 1 / 2 M. in breadth, somewhat resembles an S in form, and like the other lakes of N. Italy occupies the basin of a valley. The Oglio enters the lake between Pisogne and Lovere and emerges from it near Sarnico. The scenery vies in beauty with that of the Lago di Garda, the soil is admi- rably cultivated, and the vegetation of a luxuriant, southern cha- racter. The Mezz-Isola , an island l 4 / 2 M. in length, consisting of a lofty ridge descending precipitously on the E. side, at the S.E base of which lies Peschiera d’Iseo and at the N.W. base Siviano, two fishing-villages, rises picturesquely and boldly in the middle of the lake. On the height above Peschiera stands a church, in which divine service is celebrated once annually. Near the S.W. extremity of the island lies the islet of S. Paolo. The new *road, constructed at the expense of the parishes of the Yal Camonica and completed in 1852, commencing at Sale Marazzino and terminating at Pisogne , a distance of 6 M. , is little inferior in the boldness of its structure to that on the banks of the Lake of Como (p. 156). Immediately to the 1. lies the lake, whilst on the r. the rocks rise precipitously, in some places overhanging the road, which is carried through a number of galleries and supported by solid masonry. From Iseo the narrow road winds through a succession of vineyards, which occupy the valley and its slopes. It reaches the bank of the lake at Sulzano , opposite to the island and the village of Peschiera. On the mountain, far above, is seen the white church of S. Rocco; then, farther on, the ruins of the monastery of S. Loretto on a rock in the' lake. Sale Marazzino (Albergo della Posta), consisting of a long row of houses, is the largest village on the road. Then Marone , and 1 1 V 2 Pisogne (Albergo Grisoni) , at the N.E. extremity of the lake. Towards the close of this portion of the route the scenery is strikingly beautiful , especially where the lake termi- nates in an rounded bay, and where Lovere ( S . Antonio , or Posta ; to Tirano. BRENO. 29. Route. 199 Leone d’Oro; *Canone dfOro) , with its busy harbour, which formerly afforded the sole outlet to the industry of the Yal Camonica, lies picturesquely on the N. bank. The long and handsome Palazzo Tadini, a conspicuous point in the distance, contains a collection of antiquities pictures and specimens of natural history, and in the family chapel a monument by Canova. Omnibuses between Lovere and Edolo , and Lovere and Ber- gamo (p. 190). The Monte Guglielmo (6019 ft.), rising S.E. of Pisogne, whence the ascent occupies 4 hrs., commands a fine prospect. At Pisogne the omnibuses to and from Brescia generally halt for 1 hr., and passengers have ample time for breakfast or an early dinner. The road now quits the lake and traverses a fertile, alluvial tract. To the 1. flows the Oglio , a considerable river, which is crossed at Darfo. The road now skirts the W. side of the valley, which presents the usual characteristics of the valleys of the S. Alps, being richly productive of maize, grapes, mulberries etc., and enclosed by lofty, wooded mountains. The dark rocks (verrucano) here contrast peculiarly and strikingly with the light (trias) formations. At Cividate the Oglio is crossed by two bridges. On the height a very picturesque deserted monastery. Near Breno a broad hill, planted in numerous terraces with vines and mul- berries , and surmounted by a ruined castle , rises from the valley. 14 M. Breno ( Pelegrino ; Albergo d’ Italia, of very small pre- tension) is the capital of the Val Camonica , which is 36 M. in length, extends from Lovere and Pisogne to the Monte Tonale (p. 200) , and produces a considerable quantity of silk and iron (5 blast-furnaces). The construction of the lake-road (p. 198) at a cost of 200,000 fr., defrayed by this district alone, bears ample testimony to the prosperity of the inhabitants. The road now crosses a mountain-torrent descending from Monte Pizzo , the indented ridge of which, partially covered with snow, peeps from an opening on the r. A massive mountain ot basalt here extends towards the road; near the summit columnai basalt is occasionally visible. Beyond Capo di Monte (1290 ft.) the character of the scenery gradually changes. The valley contracts, maize and mulberries become rarer, whilst numerous chestnut- 200 Route 2.9. EDOLO. trees flourish on the slopes and in the valley itself. The road ascends slightly. I6V2 M. Edolo (2147 ft.) (Due Mori; Leone. ), a mountain- village possessing iron-works, lies in a basin on the Oglio, which here descends from the rocks and forms a waterfall. (Diligence to Tirano see p. 197). Carlo Vaerini is recommended as a vet- turino; one-horse carriage to Tirano in 6 hrs., 10 fr. ; to Lovere in 9 hrs., 15 fr. Distance from Edolo to Tirano 25 M. The new Tonale Route here diverging N.E. to the Monte Tonale (6119 ft.), is one of the most important military routes from the Tyrol to N. Italy formerly intended by the Austrian government to supersede the much loftier Stelvio Route (p. 64), the maintenance of which was atten- ded with far greater expense. The road leads on the E. side of the Monte Tonale, which forms the boundary between Lombardy and the Tyrol through the Val di Sole (Sulzberg) and Val di Non (Nonsberg) which descend to S. Michele Lombardo (or Wdlsch- Michael), a station on 'the railway from Bozen to Verona fp. 77) , in the valley of the Adige. - Rear Edolo and the village of Mu, situated in the vicinity_on the E. slope of the mountain skirmishes took place in June, 1859, between the Austrians, who had de- scended from the Monte Tonale, and the Garibaldians. The excellent new road (completed 1862), furnished with numerous bridges and consisting almost exclusively of solid ma- sonry, gradually rises beyond Edolo on the N. slope of the moun- tain. At Corteno, a village with a large church and handsome parsonage , the new road is joined by the old, which leads on the r. (S.) bank of the Corteno. Beyond it is a picturesque rocky gorge. High up on the r. lie* the village of Galleno. Near the poor village of S, Pietro the highest point of the Passo d Aprica (3800 ft.) is reached. The boundary-stone between the Val Camonica and the Val Tellina stands on the old road to the 1., about half-way between Edolo and Tirano. The inn Alla Croce d? Or 0 is % M. farther. Aprica, 1 1/2 M. W. of S. Pietro, is another village consisting of rude huts only. A view of the Val Tellina, with Sondrio in the background, is now soon disclosed. The broad, gravelly channel of the Adda (p. 71) and the devastation frequently caused by the stream are well surveyed hence.. Several snowy peaks of the spurs of the Bernina come in view to the N. ; lower down, above Tresenda rises the square watch-tower of Teglio (p. 72). On the road is situated the * Belvedere (Inn), 1V 2 M. from Aprica. Fine view of the valley of the Adda. CREMONA. 30. Route. 201 The admirably constructed road now descends through plan- tations of chestnuts in a long curve, the F, extremity of winch extends to a point nearly opposite Tirano. Here, howe,er > resumes a W. direction, passes La Mom, finally reaches the bottom of the valley of the Adda by means of two tunnels and crosses the river near Tresenda (p. 71). Intolerably dry seasons when no inundation of the Adda need be apprehended, pedestri- ans are recommended to .quit the high road, a few paces from the point where it turns to the W„ by a footpath to the r„ first somewhat steep, which near the village of Stauona cross* i a brook, passes through an opening in the wall “^ iea< * es Mad ‘ di Tirano (p. 71) in 1 V 2 hr. A saving of 4>/ 2 M. is thus effect From Tresenda to Tirano about 6 M. Tirano (1413 ft ) see p 71 Those whose destination is Sondrio need not proceed first to Tirano, but carriages are seldom to be obtained at Tresenda. 30. From Milan to Cremona. Railway in 3V 4 hrs.; fares 11 fr ’ 90 ’ 8 fr ‘ 65 ’ 6 fr ’ 15 ° From Milan to Treviglio see p. 189. The train here diverges to the S.E. First stat. Caravaggio , birth-place of the pain ei Michael Angelo (Amerighi) da Caravaggio, with the pilgrimage- chureh of the Madonna di Caravaggio. Next stat. Casaletto-Vapno ; then Crema, an industrial town (with 9000 inhab.) with an an cient cistle and an episcopal residence. Following stations Castelleone, Soresing ., Casalbuttdno , Olme- netto. The station at Cremona is without the Porta Milanese. Cremona (Sole d’Oro; Italia ; Capello) , situated in a fertile plain on the 1. bank of the Po, with 28,591 inhab., possesses streets and piazzas on an extensive scale, bearing testimony to its ancient importance. The original town was wrested by the Romans from the Gallic Cenomani and colonized by them at various periods, the first of which was at the commencement of the Punic wars (B. E. 218). It suffered seriously during the civil wars and was several times reduced to ruins, but was restored by the Emp. Vespasian. The Goths and Lombards, especially King Agilulf, as well as the subsequent- conflicts between Guelphs and Ghibellines, occasioned great damage to the Jown- Cremona espoused the cause of Frederick Barbarossa against Milan and 202 Route 30. CREMONA. Crema and afterwards came into the possession of the Visconti and of Francesco Sforza, since which period it appertained to Milan. In the principal Piazza rises the Torrazzo, a tower 372 ft. in height, said to be the loftiest in Italy, founded 754, com- pleted 1284, connected with the cathedral by a series of loggie. The summit commands an extensive prospect. Here, too, is situated the *Palazzo Pubblico , containing a richly decorated chimney-piece, by G. C. Pedone, 1512. — The ^Cathedral, a German-Lombard structure of 1107, possesses a rich facade deco- rated with columns. In the interior are frescoes from the life of Mary, by Boccaccino and Meloni , and pictures by Pordenone and others. In the vicinity are the octagonal Battisterio of 1167 and the Campo Santo , with ancient mosaics (entrance r. of the cathedral, No. 10). *S. Agostino e Giacomo in Braida , of the 14th cent., contains paintings by Pietro Perugino and Galeazzo Campi. *S. Sigismondo, 1V 2 M. from the town, on the road to Mantua (E.), possesses pictures by Campi and Boccaccino. — Cremona also boasts of a number of handsome Palaces, e. g. that of San Secondo, with sculptures by Sacchi. — Picture Galleries of the Marchese Pallavicini , Conte Schizzi, C. Pe- dretti, Ala di Ponzone etc. — Near the village of Le Torri is situated the beautiful * Villa Sommi. The manufacturers of the far-famed v i o 1 i n s and violas of Cremona were Amati (1590 — 1620), the two Guarneri (1662 — 80 and 1717 — 40) and Stradivari (1670 — 1728). On Feb. 1st, 1702, Prince Eugene here surprised the French marshal Villeroi and took him prisoner. In 1799 also the Austrians here defeated the French. In the castle of Soncino on the Oglio , 20 M. N.W. of Cremona, Ezzelino da Romano , once the powerful representative at Padua and Ve- rona of the Emperor Frederick II., renowned for his bravery, as well as for his relentless cruelty, died on Sept. 27th, 1259, eleven days after he had been wounded at the battle of Cassano (p. 189). Even whilst in prison he displayed his indomitable and haughty spirit, spurned from his pre- sence the monks who proffered the consolations of religion, refused to take food and medicine and tore the bandages from his wounds. The ta- lented painter C. F. Lessing derived from this history the subject, of one of his finest works (in the Stadel Gallery at Frankfurt on the Main). From Cremona to Brescia and to Pavia see p. 192. ' iEk/.Ans-t. v. Ed. Wa/grier, EaTmi^tudu Station® CMese S. Anastasia- . E3 Z S. Apostate D.3 3 S'. Bernardino A.B.o E i D. 3 E. 4 E.5 E.3 G.3 EJ.2 E. 3 E.G-.3 (1.4 D. 4 F. 3 E. 5 4 CattedraJe 5 S.Eufemia - J! Fermo Maggiore S'. Ferine in Praida. 8 3 *. Giovannis ins Faro 9 Giovannis in- Valle 10 S. Giorgio 11 S'. Marias aniica . 13 G.Mariasia Organa 33 S. JFdMtaro e- eelso 14 S. JFicaoTo. 15 S'. Pietro Martire 16 S. Pietro J near nor ia 17 S'. Paolo di CampoMarxa F. 5 18 S.Seiastiano 19 S. Stef ana 30 Tombadi Giulietixt 31 J*. Tommaso Ctuilnar Ti S'. Trinita S'. Zeno E. 4 F. 3 D.6 Iffy C.5 B 2 YERONA. SI. Route. 203 From Cremona to Mantua (diligence from the Alberto del Cap- pello) the road leads by (il M.) Cicogmlo, (11 M.) Piadena, (8V2 MO B °*' Lo, (17 M.) CaMlmcMo; then (11 M.) Mantua (p. 210) - From Cremona to Parma diligence (from the |Albergo d'ltalia) daily in 7 hrs by Cam- maagiore: the traveller will, however, find it more convenient to drive to the (15 M.) railway-station Pirmzuola (p.266),- The road from Cremona To pYacenca intersects the plain on the (S.) bank of the Po after having crossed the river with its numerous islands U/ a M. beyond the former town. Stations Monticelli, S. Nazzaro , then Corso , where the river formed by the Chiavenna and Riglio is crossed. At Roncagha the Nure crossed, after which the road proceeds W. to Piacenza (see p. 11 )• 31. Verona. Hotels. Due Torri (PI. 46), R. 3, L. 1 , B 1V 2 , 1> ; 4, A. 1 fri "Torre di Londra (PL 47), similar charges', Hotel Rainer (PI. 48) R H /9 L 1 / 9 , A. 1/2 fr.y Colombo d’Oro; Aquila Nera, near the church of St. Eufemia and the Piazza d’Erbe-, *B. Lor « nz0 « ih ^ staurant, on the Adige, in the third narrow street W. of the Porta B ° r Restaurants . "Del Teatro Filarmonico on the S. side of the Piazza Bra. Beyond the gateway, immediately to the r. the the *0 s t e ria al Giardino S. Lucca (with baths). Aquila Nera see above. Cres pi, near the Ponte delle Navi (p. 207). Caf^s. *E u r 0 p a and *Vittorio Emanuele in the Piazza Bra, where a military band plays every evening. "Cafe Dante, in the Piazza de Bookseller. Munster, in the Via Nuova, the principal business- street, leading from the Bra to the Piazza d’Erbe. Fiacres. Drive of 1/4 hr. 65 c., V 2 hr. 1 fr., 1 hr. 1 V 2 ^., each suc- ceeding hr 1 fr. 25 c.«, in the evening 40 c. per hr. more. To the station after 10 p. m. 1 fr. 75 c.; luggage 20 c. for each person. These fares are for 1-2 pers.; for each additional pers. Vard- more. Omnibus fiom the stat. to the town 30 c. Railway Stations. Verona possesses two stations (to which the tra- veller’s attention is directed in case of mistakes with regard to luggage etc.), one outside the Porta Vescovo , H/ 2 M E. of the Piazza Bra . the other outside the Porta Nuova , 3/ 4 M. to the S. - Railway to Bozen and Innsbruck see R. 8* the trains start from the station beyond the- Porta ™ halt at the station outside the Porta Nuova', to Mantua (R. 32) from the Porta Nuova. (The Austrian, as well as the Italian paper-currency should be avoided by those crossing the frontier in either direction.) The principal objects of interest, which may be inspected m one day, are as follows: Arena and Piazza Bra, then across the Adige to > the. Palazzo Pompei (on the way thither is S. Fermo Maguire-, p. 207) back bv the Via Leoni to the Piazza de’ Signori, with the tombs of the Scaligers ; S. Anastasia, the Cathedral, and across the Ponte di Ferro to S Giorgio ; a drive along the Corso, from the Porta Borsan to the Porta Stuppa and S. Zeno, then back to the Giardino Giusti. 204 Route 31. VERONA. Arena. Verona (157 ft.), the Bern of early German lore, with 60.000 inhab. and a garrison of 6000, situated at the base of the Alps, on the rapid Adige, which is crossed by 5 bridges, is the most important fortress, and next to Venice the most con- siderable town in Venetia. The * Amphitheatre (PL 24) bounds on one side the principal square of Verona, the Piazza Brh (Praedium). This celebrated arena, probably erected under Diocletian (A. D. 284), is 100 ft. in height, 513 ft. long, 410 ft. wide (the arena itself 225 ft. long, 133 ft. broad), circumference 492 yds. Around the amphi- theatre rise 45 tiers of steps, 18 inches in height, 26 inches in width, of grey marble (modern), on which it is calculated that 27.000 spectators could be accommodated. A small portion only of the external wall, blackened by age, is still standing. Entrance on the W. by one of the 72 arcades; fee optional. Fossil fish from Monte Bolca and other curiosities are sold here. The arcades are let by the town at high rents to dealers in wares of every description. On the S. side of the Bra are the old and new Guard Houses, on the N. several large cafe's, on the W. the Old Town Hall , now a barrack. The W. corner is occupied by the Teatro Filarmonico (PI. 41), with the Museo Lapidario (PI. 29), a valuable collection of Roman and Greek inscriptions, basreliefs, Roman statues etc. N. of the Bra is the Porta de' Borsdri , a triumphal arch (or, according to others simply a gateway of the old town-wall), occupying the entire breadth of the street (Corso Vecchio), consisting of two entrance-archways surmounted by two galleries, with facade towards the exterior of the town, erected under the Emperor Gallienus, A. D. 265. The small Piazza del Signori, paved with slabs of marble and surrounded by six handsome and picturesque palaces, was the mediaeval focus of the traffic of Verona. It is adorned with a Statue of Dante, erected 1865, with inscription. In one corner is the Palazzo del Consiglio (PI. 34), or Council Hall, erected at the commencement of the 16th cent by Fra Giocondo da Verona (architect of the Notre Dame bridge at Paris and of the massive bridge over the Adige), possessing a remarkable and picturesque Internal Court. This edifice is adorned with statues of celebrated natives of the town, among whom are Cornelius Nepos and Cathedral. VERONA. 31. Route. 205 Catullus. (“Mantu. Virgilio' g»udet Verona Catullo”. Ovid. “Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo, quantum parva suo Mantua Virgilio”. Martial .) . .. , The passage at the other corner leads to the modernize Romanesque church of S. Maria Antica (PI. 11) and the rmposuig Gothic *Tombs of the Scaligers fa scale, or ladder , foims pai of their armorial bearings and frequently recurs m surroun- ding railings), who for upwards of a century (1262-1389) held the chief power in the republic of Verona. The largest of these monument! is that of Can Signorio (d. 1375), by Bon.no da Campialione. On the six square columns which surround it are six Christian heroes under canopies, above are the Christian virtues in niches, and on the summit the equestrian statue of Can Signorio, who erected the monument to himself. On the other side, next to the Piazza of the town-hall, is the monument o Mastino II. (d. 1351), also adorned with a double senes allegorical figures. Between these two principal monuments are four sarcophagi of Veronese marble, the three first dating from 1311, the last from 1359. Over the church-door is the monument of Can Grande (d. 1329). Adjacent is the monument of Can Grande II., who was assassinated in the ^ets by^hm own brother Can Signorio; finally that of Mastino I. (d. 1277) (i for the attendant who opens the enclosure 30 c.). The Cathedral (IT. 4) is an imposing Gothic structure of the 14th cent., with choir and Romanesque facade of the 12tli cent Behind the columns of the handsome portal are the two paladins of Charlemagne, Roland and Oliver, in half relief. The front columns rest on griffins. In the interior, over the 1st altar on the 1., is an *Assumption by Titian. Elegantly wrought rood- loft of marble, designed by Sanmicheli. The handsome cloisters are supported by arches on double columns of red marble m two stories one above the other (entrance contiguous to the cathedral). *S. Anastasia (PI. 1), adjoining the hotel “Due Torn , is a fine Gothic church of the 14th cent., of beautiful and grand pro- portions in the interior, the vaulting of which however is dis- figured with unsuitable painting. The facade constructed of brick and partially covered with marble, presents a somewhat dilapi- dated aspect. The church contains several good monuments. 206 Route 31. VERONA. 8. Zenone. On the two first, pillars, as supporters of the basin for conse- crated water, are two beggars in white and grey marble, that on the 1. executed by Gabriel Cagliari, father of Paul Veronese', that on the r. by Aless. Rossi in 1591. The chapel of the Pel- legrini, on the r. by the high altar, is adorned with reliefs of the 14th cent. , representing the history of Christ from the Nativity to the Resurrection, and contains two monuments of the Pellegrini in red marble. — To the 1. of the church, over a gateway adjoining the small church of 8. Pietro Martire (PI. 15) is the dingy marble sarcophagus of Count Castelharco, beyond it another similar monument and two still more ancient in front of the pediment of the church. At the opposite extremity of the town is situated *S. Zenone (see below). To the r. on the route- thither is the ancient residence of the Scaliger family, the Castello Vecchio , a rude structure of red brick, now the Arsenal ; also the Ponte di Castello over the Adige, constructed in the 14th cent., remarkable for its three arches of different size and its peculiar Lombard pinnacles. To the 1., opposite to the bridge, the prolongation of the Corso leads to the Porta Stuppa (or Polio), which has long been walled up, the finest of the gates of Verona erected by Michele Sanmicheli (1484 — 1549), the most famous builder of fortifications of his time. — To the N. of this point, by the monastery of S. Ber- nardino, is the Cappella dei Pellegrini (PI. 3), a very interesting sample of early Renaissance, also by Sanmicheli. It is sur- mounted by a dome and is free from painting and gilding. *S. Zenone (PI. 23) is a Romanesque basilica ot most noble proportions. The nave in its present form dates from the 12th, the choir from the 13th cent. The Portal is embellished with marble reliefs of 1178, the subjects of which are derived from Scripture, from the creation of woman and the Fall to the Betrayal by Judas and the Crucifixion. The hunting-scene to the r. in one of the lower sections is known as the “Chase of Theodoric”, an allusion to his having embraced the heretical Arian doctrines. Then re- presentations from the life of St. Zeno and of the months, beginning with March. The doors, consisting of a number of small brazen plates with reliefs (of which the oldest are very rudely executed), are said to have been pre- sented by Dukes of Cleve (on the Rhine). The two columns of the Portal rest on lions (comp. p. 76). To the r. by the church is a round altar supposed to be of Roman origin. — In the Interior, 1. of the entrance, is a large ancient vase of porphyry, 27 ft. in circumference. In the r. Aisle Christ and the 12 Apostles, a series of statues in marble, some of Palazzo Pompei. VERONA. 31. Route. 20 ? them painted, supposed to be coeval with the relief ot the portal. ■ faded remnants of old frescoes probably date from the period of Giotto (1300). From both aisles steps descend to the spacious and lofty Crypt (with 40 columns, all differing in ornamentation). To the r. in the Choir, above the crvpt, is the very ancient painted marble figure of St Zeno, Bishop of Verona, holding his episcopal staff and (as patron-samt of fisher- men) a fishing-rod with a silver fish. Behind the high altar is a ‘picture (covered) by Mantegna , in excellent preservation, consisting of 3 compart- ments, a Madonna and angels, with groups of saints oil the r. and 1. A door in the N. aisle leads to the admirably preserved ‘Cloisters, sup- ported by a series of elegant double columns of great antiquity , having been restored (according to an old inscription) as early as 1123. Imme- diately to the r. two tombstones are recognised as pertaining to the bca- liger family by the ladder represented on them. — On the S. side of the church is a small disused Cemetery whence a general view of the church with its campanile of 1045 (restored 1120) is best obtained. At the entrance of a disused Mausoleum, with a sarcophagus and two columns (descent by 12 steps), a stone bears an inscription: “The sepulchre of Pepin, King of Italy, the Son of the Emperor Charlemagne”. Adjacent is a very large Roman sarcophagus. On the opposite hank of the Adige, near the Ponte delle Navi, is situated the Palazzo Pompei, a handsome structure erected by Sanmicheli. It was presented by the family to the town and is now occupied by the Museo Civico (fee 1 fr.). The Ground-Floor contains antiquities, casts, and fossils from Monte Bolca. The Pinacoteca, or picture-gallery, on the upper floor consists principally of works of the Veronese school. 2nd Room: Cima da Conegliano , Madonna with saints. 3rd R.s ancient pictures on wood. 4th R.: Paolo Veronese , Descent from the Cross and a portrait. 5th R. : P. Veronese , St. Cecilia, a fresco-, Girolamo dai Libri , Holy Family. 6th R.: Paolo Morando (d. 1522), Scenes from the Passion. 7th R. : Bonifazio , The Prodigal Son; Palma VeccMo, Portrait. S. Permo Maggiore (PI. 6) dates from the commencement of the 14th cent. The architecture of the exterior should be inspected. The facade is of brick, with decorations in marble. The interior is modernized; the ceiling in walnut -wood with remains of old frescoes is peculiar. L. of the entrance is a Resurrection carved in wood. The Cappella del Sagramento on the 1. contains an altar-piece by Carotto , painted in 1528; above are the Virgin and St. Anna, beneath are John the Baptist, St. Sebastian and other saints. The Ponte delle Navi in the vicinity was erected to replace a bridge destroyed by an inundation in 1757. If the stranger cross the river and follow the wharf to the S. he reaches the Porta S. Vittoria, which leads to the uninteresting Campo Santo, 208 Route 31. YERONA. Castello S. Pietro. enclosed by a Doric colonnade, connecting the lofty church with two temples. The summit of the pediment is adorned with a marble group of Faith, Hope and Charity, by Spazzi. In a closed garden (visitors ring in the Vicolo Franceschine ) on the r. bank of the Adige, nearly opposite the burial-ground, are the remains of a Franciscan Monastery (PI. 20). A chapel in the garden of the monastery-church, now used as a coach- house, contains a rude sarcophagus in red Verona marble, called without the slightest authority the, “Tomb of Juliet” (fee 25 c.). Shakespeare’s play of “Romeo and Juliet” is founded on events which actually occurred at Verona. “Escalus, Prince of Verona” was Bartolommeo della Scala (d. 1303), one of the ruling- princes of the Scaliger family (comp. p. 205). The lofty and narrow house of Juliet’s parents (PI. E. 4) in the street of S. Se- bastiano (formerly Capelletti), now a tavern, still bears the hat (over the entrance to the court) which was the distinctive emblem in the armorial bearings of the family. A fine *view of Verona and its environs, as well as the Alps and distant Apennines, is obtained from the somewhat neglected Giardino Giusti on the 1. bank of the Adige (access daily ; visitors ring at a gate on the r. ; fee 25 c.) , celebrated for its numerous (upwards of 200) cypresses, some of which are 400 — 500 years old and said to exceed 120 ft. in height. In the spring of 1848 the Piedmontese had advanced as far as the chain of hills which bounds the W. horizon and occupied them during three months, but were driven from their position by Marshal Radetzky on July 25th. The campanili of S. Lucia (1 1/ 2 M.) and 8. Massimo are conspicuous objects in the landscape. Somma Campagna (p. 192) and Custozza (p. 80) lie 10 — 12 M. to the S.W. The view is still finer from the Castello S. Pietro (ascent by the Ponte della Pietra; permission obtained at the office of the commandant at the entrance), the ancient castle of “Dietrich of Bern” the hero of a German legend. It was entirely remo- delled by Galeazzo Visconti in 1393, destroyed by the French in 1801 and refortified by the Austrians in 1849. At its base, immediately below the bridge, are the remains of an ancient semicircular Roman Theatre (PI. 37), excavated in the court of a private house. MANTUA. 32. Route. 209 S. Giorgio (PI. 10), in th is situated the celebrated Villa Rotonda Palladiana of the Mar- chesi Capra, with an Ionic colonnade surmounted by a pediment on each of the four sides. In the centre is a circular hall with a dome. The Baths of Recoaro (Inn), about 25 M. (by carr. in 4 hrs.) N.W. of Vicenza are picturesquely situated and much frequented, especially in July and August. The mineral water contains iron. Pojana is the only station between Vicenza and Padua. Country flat; S. in the distance rise the Monti Euganei (p. 121). Padua see p. 216. To the 1. as the train proceeds the Ty- rolese Alps are perceived in the distance. Near stat. Ponte di 216 Route 34. PADUA. Brenta the line crosses the Brenta; at stat. Dolo a lofty, slender campanile*, at stat. Marano an arm of the Brenta is crossed. From stat. Mestre the line by Treviso and Udine to Trieste (R. 37) diverges to the N. Venice , with its dark blue line of towers and churches rising from the sea, now gradually comes into view. The various islands with their groups of houses appear to float in the water. The line passes Fort Malghera and two large barracks on the 1. and reaches the colossal * Bridge, one of the greatest existing structures of the kind (supported by 222 arches, length 2 1 /g M., breadth 28 ft.), by means of which the train crosses the Lagune (p. 234) in 8 min. and reaches the station at the N.W. extremity of Venice (R. 36). 34. Padua, Ital. Padova , Lat. Patavum. Hotels. Stella rrer, with the civic museum, Mond., Thursd., Sat. 10 — 4; *Palazzo Vendramin , the most interesting of the Venetian palaces (one at least of witch' should be visited), also those of Treves, Fini - Wtmpfen, Pesa.ro „ and Manfrin are generally accessible daily from 9 or 10 a. m. till 3 or 4 p. m. When the proprietors are present, application must in some cases be made on the previous day. Attendant’s fee 1 fr. (more for a party), porter 25 — 50 c. These points of attraction may ad- vantageously be combined with the inspection of the churches. Duration of .Visit. Those whose time is limited may obtain a superficial acquaintance with the principal sights of Venice in 3 — 4 days. The ascent of the *Cam,panile (p. 239) in the Piazza of St. Mark, whence a good general survey is obtained, forms an appropriate commencement or termination to the traveller’s sojourn. Excursions may be made N. to Murano, Burano and Torcello (p. 261; 5 hrs. there and back); S. to S. Lazzaro (p. 252), Malamocco and Chioggia (p. 235). Baths of various descriptions, also for swimming (gallegianle), are situated between the Kiva dei Schiavoni and the Isola S. Giorgio, but are used during the three summer-months only (bath 1 fr.) Ferry from the Piazzetta to the baths 10 c. ; the word u bagno n is a sufficient direction to the gondolier. Swimmers (1 fr.) ask for a ticket at the establishment for Theatres. VENICE. 36. Route. 231 tlie “vasca' 1 ' 1 (basin); a separate bath (II /2 fr.) is a “camerino” ; common bath for ladies (“ sirene ”) 1 fr. 40 c. ; separate bath for ladies 3 fr. Ro gratuities are expected. The proper period for bathing is when the tide commences to rise; at low tide the water is shallow and muddy. — The baths on the Lido are more agreeable. In summer a steamboat plies every hour between the Riva dei Schiavoni and the Lido in 12 min., returning after a halt of 1/2 hr. From the landing-place to the baths a walk of 1/4 hr - Bath 1 fr., less to subscribers. — Warm Baths at most of the hotels and at Chitarin's , near S. Maria della Salute, ll/ 2 — 2 fr. Consulates. British , S. Maria del Giglio, Calle Gritti o del Campanile 2489; American , S. Vitale, Calle Vitturi e Falier 2905; Russian , S. Apollinare, Traghetto alia Madonnetta 1430; also others for all the principal Eu- ropean states. Post Office ( Uffizio della Posta , comp. Introd.) (PI. 39) in the Pa- lazzo Grimani, on the Grand Canal, by the Campo S. Luca, not far from the Ponte Rialto. Letter-boxes in the Piazza of St Mark, at the Uffizio del Lloyd etc. — Telegraph Office at the Palace of the Doges. Booksellers. Munster, Piazza of S. Mark, S.W. corner; Giusto Ebhard, S. Luca, Calle de’ Fuseri 4355, nekt to the Vittoria; both with circulating libraries. — Photographers: Ponti, Riva dei Schiavoni 4178; Raya, Riva dei Schiavoni 4206 (next to the Hotel Danieli). Steamboat Office (Uffizio del Lloyd Austriaco) in the Piazzetta, beneath the Zecca (PI. 54). To Trieste three times weekly; to Chioggia daily at 5 or 6 p. m. (fares 88 or 61 nkr. Austr.), on Sundays at 8 a. m. (return- tickets 1 fl. 40 nkr.). Two steamers weekly ascend the Po, but are em- ployed chiefly for the transport of goods. Theatres (comp. Introd. VI.). Della Fenice (Pl. 50), is the largest in Venice, capable of accommodating 3000 spectators ; internal arrange- ments worthy of inspection; performances during the Carnival only. The following are employed throughout the whole year: Apollo (PI. 51) Gallo (S. Benedetto) (PI. 52) and Camploy (S. Samuele) (PL 58). Malibran (PI. 53), open-air theatre. Burattini, near S. Moise a marionette theatre. Shops (comp. Introd. VI). The best are in the Piazza of St. Mark, in the Merceria , a narrow line of streets, leading from the Piazza of St. Mark to the Ponte Rialto, and in the Frezzaria , entered from the Piazza of St. Mark, opposite to the church. The Venetian pearls and jewellery enjoy a high reputation; ornaments in mosaic, glass and shells are also well executed here. The most extensive manufactory of mosaic is that of Salviati, on the Canal Grande, in the Campo S Vito, not far from S. Maria della Salute. At most of the shops two-thirds or even one-half of the price first demanded are often taken. English Church Service, Palazzo Cirran, S. Gio Grisostomo 5751. — Scotch Presbyterian Church on the Grand Canal , not far from S. Maria della Salute. History. The modern Venetia was inhabited during the Roman period by the, Veneti, whose principal towns were Patavium, Altinum, Aquileia etc. These were successively destroyed, after the fall of the W. Roman Empire, 232 Route 36. VENICE. History. by the hordes of barbarian invaders by whom Italy was now overrun, and their inhabitants took refuge on the islands of the Lagune, founded a new state there and at an early period carried on a considerable com- merce with the Levant. The necessity of a constitutional government was soon felt, and in 697 Pauluccio Anafesto was elected the first doge. In 819 1 the doge Angelo Participgco transferred the seat of government from Mala- mocco to Rialto, which he connected with the adjacent islands by means of bridges, thus laying the foundation of the modern city of Venice. During the following centuries , notwithstanding continual internal dissensions the might of Venice steadily increased. The foundation of its subsequent greatness, however, was principally laid at the period of the Crusades (1097 — 1271), which the shrewd policy of Venice contrived to turn to its own aggrandizement. In 1177, under the Doge Sebastiano Ziani , the celebrated meeting of Emp. Frederick I. with Pope Alexander III. (p. 238) took place at Venice. Enrico Dandolo (1192—1205), one of the most powerful of the doges, conquered Constantinople in 1204 with the aid of French crusaders. In consequence of this the Byzantine Empire- was divided, and Venice obtained possession of the coast-districts of the Adriatic and Egyptian seas and numerous islands, among which was Candia. Under the successors of Enrico Dandolo - the republic underwent severe contests with Genoa, which occasioned the loss of most of the Venetian conquests in the East, but at length terminated with the total defeat of Genoa in 1252, under Andrea Dandolo. His successor Marino Falieri con- templated the overthrow of the aristocratic form of government, but his scheme was discovered, and he was beheaded on April 17th, 1355 (p. 241). Under Andrea Contarini (1367 — 82) Padua, Verona, Genoa, Hungary and Naples formed an alliance against Venice. In 1379 the Genoese took possession of Chioggia, but were surrounded in the Lagune and compelled to surrender, June 24th, 1380. In 1381 the peace was concluded by which Venice lost all its possessions on the mainland. The republic, however, soon recovered from these reverses. In 1388 Antonio Vender (1382 — 1400) took possession of the island of Corfu, then of Durazzo, Argos etc. Under Michele Steno (1400 — 14) the Venetian general Malatesta conquered Vicenza, Belluno, Feltre, Verona and Padua (1405); in 1408 the republic gained possession of Lepanto and Patras, in 1409 of Guastalla, Casalmaggiore and Brescello. In 1421 Tommaso Mocenigo waged war successfully against Hungary. In 1416 the Venetian - fleet under Loredan had already conquered the Turkish at Gallipoli , and in 1421 subjugated all the towns pf the Dalmatian coast, so that Venice was now in posses- sion of the entire coast district from the estuary of the Po as far as the island of Corfu. Mocenigo’s successor was Francesco Foscari (1423—57). In 1426 Brescia fell into the hands of the Venetian general Garmagnola , but in 1431 his successful career was terminated by a suspicion of treason, and in 1432 he was executed by order of the Council of Ten. In 1449 the Venetians gained possession of Crema, but were unable to prevent the elevation of Sforza to the dignity of Duke of Milan (1450). In 1457 Foscari, now enervated by old age and domestic misfortunes,, was deposed by the Council of Ten in consequence of the intrigues of hia History. VENICE. 36. Route. 233 enemies. Under Cristoforo Moro (1462—71) the Morea was conquered by the Turks. In 1480, in consequence of the renunciation of Catharine Cornaro, wife of king James of Cyprus, this island came into the possession of Venice, and in 1483 the republican dominions were farther augmented by the island of Zante. The close of the 15th cent, may be designated as the culminating point of the glory of Venice. It was now the grand focus of the entire commerce of Europe, numbered 200,000 inhab., and was universally re- spected and admired. Its annual exports were valued at 10 millions du- cats, 4 millions of which were estimated as clear profit. It possessed 300 sea-going vessels with 8000 sailors and 3000 smaller craft with 17,000, as well as a fleet of 45 galleys manned hy 11,000 men, who maintained the supremacy of the republic over the Mediterranean. With the commence- ment of the 16th cent, the power of Venice began to decline. Its com- merce was gradually superseded to a great extent by that of the Portu- guese, in consequence of the discovery of the new sea-routes to India. The League of Cambray, formed hy the Pope, the Emperor and the kings of France and Arragon against Venice in 1508, and the victory of the French at Agnadello in 1509 occasioned serious losses to the republic. The wars between Emp. Charles V. and Francis I. of France (1521 — 30) were also very prejudicial to Venice, and its power was still more tho- roughly undermined hy the extension of the Osman empire in Europe and Asia. In 1540 Nauplia, the islands of Chios, Paros and others were lost, and in 1571 Cyprus, notwithstanding its brave defence by Bragadino. In the naval battle of Lepanto (Oct. 1st, 1571) the Venetian fleet greatly distinguished itself. In 1689 the island of Candia was conquered by the Turks. In 1684 the Venetians under Francesco Morosini and Konigsmarck were victorious in the Morea and conquered Coron, Patras, Corinth etc., in 1696 and 1698 they again defeated the Turkish fleets, and by the Peace of Carlowitz in 1709 they retained possession of the Morea $ but in 1715 the Turks reconquered the peninsula, and in 1718 were confirmed in their possession by the Peace of Passarowitz. From this period Venice ceases to occupy a prominent position in the history of Europe. It retained its R. Italian possessions only, observed a strict neutrality in all the contests of its neighbours and continued to decline in power. On the outbreak of the French Revolution Venice at first strenuously opposed the new principles, on the victorious advance of the French it endeavoured to preserve its neutrality and repeatedly rejected Buonaparte’s proposals of alliance. Irritated by this opposition, the French broke off their negotiations and took possession of the city on May 16th, 1797. By the Peace of Campo Formio (1797) Venetia was adjudged to Austria, by that of Pressburg (1805) to the kingdom of Italy. In 1814 Venice was again declared Austrian and remained so until 1848, when a revolution broke out, and the citizens endeavoured to re-establish their ancient republican form of government, under the presidency of Manin. Their renewed independence, however, proved most disastrous and short- lived. The city was torn by internal dissension and at the same time besieged by the Austrians. After a siege of 15 months it was compelled to capitulate to Radetzky , in August, 1849, a victory which cost the Austrians 234 Route 36. VENICE. History. upwards of 20,000 soldiers. The war of 1859 did not affect the supremacy ol Austria over Venetia, the re-union of which with Italy was finally effected by the events of 1866. In the History of Art Venice occupies a prominent position. The Venetian School of painting, which was especially celebrated for the bril- liancy of its colouring, boasts of many illustrious names. The most con- spicuous painters of the 15th cent, were Antonio Bartolommeo and Luigi Yivanni of Mur an o , Vittore Carpaccio, Gentile and Giovanni Bellini. The Madonnas of the latter are remarkable for their grace and tenderness Among his numerous pupils Giambattista Cima of Conegliano and Giorgio Barbarelli of Castelfranco (“II Giorgione ”, 1478-1511) were the most distin- guished. The next well-known names are Jacopo Palma il Vecchio of Ber- gamo, Paris Bordone and Pordenone , but the most celebrated of all is that of Titian or Tiziano Vecellio (1477—1576) , whose marvellous power of life- like delineation and richness of colouring are unparalleled. His greatest contemporaries were the talented masters Jacopo Robusti , surnamed “Tinto- retto” (1512—94), Paolo Cagliari , surnamed v Veronese ” (1528—88) from his native town, and Jacopo da Ponte- of Bassanoy then Bonifacio , Alessandro Bonvicini , surnamed "Il Moretto ”, and Giov. Batt. Morone. In the 17th cent. Palma Giovine and Padovanino attained a well-merited reputation, but the art was now decidedly on the decline. The only subsequent names worthy of mention are Rosalba Carriera (d. 1757), paintress of miniatures, Antonio Canale , surnamed "Canaletto” (d. 1768), and Tiepoletto (d. 1769), the mannerist, Venice is adorned with several structures in the Byzantine and Gothic styles, but its architecture did not attain to a high degree of perfection until the period of the Renaissance. To this epoch belong the great masters lietro and Tulho Lombardo and the brothers of the latter, who were also architects , Michele Sanmicheli , Jac. Sansovino , Antonio da Ponte , Palladio , Scamozzi and Longhena. — Of late years the -reputation of Venice as a cradle of art has commenced to revive in a very marked degree. Venice, the population of which had after its dissolution as an independent state (1797) dwindled from 200,000 to 60,000, gra- dually regained its former importance under the Austrian regime, owing in a great measure to its advantages as a Free Harbour. Its prosperity, however, again sustained severe injury from the re- volution of 1848 and the war of 1859, and it now remains to he proved whether the Italian government will adopt measures cal- culated to neutralize the physical and moral degeneracy which have resulted from these vicissitudes. The city at present con- tains 118,172 inhab., of whom more than one-fourth are in receipt of relief as paupers. The 15,000 houses and palaces of Venice are situated on three large and 114 small islands, for- med by 147 canals, connected by 378 bridges (most of them of stone) and altogether about 7 M. in circumference. The city is surrounded by the Lagune, a shallow bay about 25 M. in length VENICE. 36. Route. 235 Piazza of St. Mark. and 9 M. in width, protected from the open sea by long sand- hills (lidi) * which are converted into a still more efficient bul- wark by means of dams (murazzi) of solid masonry, averaging 30 ft. in height and 40—50 ft. in width. Towards the Lagune the Murazzi are perpendicular, whilst towards the sea they des- cend in four terraces. The Murazzi on the Lido from Palestrina to Chioggia date from the last period of the republic. The Riga of Malamocco , a pier which extends for a distance of 3 3 / 4 M. into the open sea, was constructed by the Austrian government after 1825, in order to prevent the harbour of Malamocco from becoming filled up with mud. The Lagune are connected with the open sea by means of four entrances, of which those of the Lido and Malamocco alone are employed by vessels of heavy tonnage. The steamers usu- ally enter by the Porto di Lido (p. 265J, but in stormy weather occasionally employ that of Malamocco. The best survey of the Murazzi, to visit which permission from the military authorities ,is necessary, is obtained from the steamer (p. 231) to Chioggia , a fishing and seaport town about 20 M. S. of Venice. The difference between flood and ebb-tide is here about 2 ft. At high water innumerable stakes, protruding from the water in groups of the most varied form, mark the situation and shape of the low sand-islands which surround the city on every side, forming a complicated network of navigable channels , most of them accessible to small boats only. Most of the houses rise immediately from the canals (rii), or are separated from them by narrow streets only, here termed (as in Spain) calli (sing, il calle ) and paved with broad slabs of stone, or occasionally with brick or asphalt. These lanes form a labyrinth from which the stranger will some times find it diffi- cult to extricate himself. For expeditions of any length walking cannot be recommended, and in such cases the Venetians them- selves generally employ a gondola or barca. The *Piazza of St. Mark, usually termed “La Piazza ” (the other small open spaces are termed campi ), is 540 ft. in length, on the W. side 174 ft., and on the E. 252 ft. in breadth. On three sides it is enclosed by imposing structures, which appear to form one vast marble palace, blackened by age and the ac- tion of the elements ; on the E. it is bounded by the Church 236 Route 36. VENICE. Piazza of St. Mark . of St. Mark and the Piazzetta (p. 228), a small piazza, the S. side of which adjoins the Lagune. These palaces were once the residences of the “procurators”, the highest officers of the re- public, whence their appellation of Procuratie: N. the Pro cura- tie Vecchie, erected at the close of the 15th cent. ; S. the Pro- curatie Nuove, commenced by Scamozzi in 1584, now a royal palace; the modern edifice on the W., termed the Atrio or Nuova Fabbrica, was erected under Napoleon in 1810 on the site of the former church of S. Geminiano. The ground-floors, of these structures consist of arcades, in which the cafes and s ops mentioned at pp. 228, 231 are established. — The Piazza of St. Mark is the grand focus of the public life of Venice. Here on summer evenings, after sunset, all who desire to enjoy the fresh air congregate, and the prince, as well as the citizen of the ambler classes, may be seen enjoying their sorbetto in front of the. cafes. The scene is most animated towards 9 p. m., espe- cially on the evenings when the military band plays in the Piazza (Sundays, and usually on Tuesdays and Thursdays also, 8-10 o clock). On these occasions the Piazza is brilliantly lighted and often presents an animated scene until after midnight; on other evenings the crowd usually disperses about 10 o’clock. In win- ter the band plays on the same days 2—4 p. m., and the Piazza is then the promenade of the fashionable world. At an early hour in the morning a few visitors to the cafes may be seen in- dulging m coffee, but these are rarely natives of Venice. The Venetians themselves are seldom visible at a very early hour, and the Piazza is comparatively deserted except at the hours already mentioned. The Piazza with its adjuncts (the Procuratie, St. Mark’s, the Palace of the Doges, Piazzetta and Lagune) pre- sents a strikingly imposing aspect by moonlight. Numerous pigeons flock daily to the Piazza at 2 p. m. to be fed at the expense of the city. According to tradition, Admiral Dandolo, whilst besieging Candia at the commencement of the 13th cent., received important intelligence by means of carrier- pigeons from the island, the conquest of which was greatly fa- cilitated in consequence. He then despatched the birds to Ve- nice with the news of his success, and since that period their descendants have been carefully tended and highly revered by the citizens. They nestle in the nooks and crannies of the St. Marco. VENICE. 36. Route. 237 surrounding buildings and are generally seen in great numbers in the evening, perched on the facade of St. Mark’s. Marco (PL 14) is a basilica in the Byzantine style, commenced in the 10th cent. ; the facade was embellished with Gothic adjuncts in the 14th. cent, with foliage, arched pediments and numerous canopied turrets. The five domes, 500 marble columns and large mosaics on a gold ground in the semicircular pedi- ments were executed at the end of the 17th and commencement of the 18th century. The aspect of the structure is rather pic- turesque than imposing, owing to the very unusual style of archi- tecture and the half Oriental character of the decorations. The three lofty Flagstaffs (Pili), or masts of cedar in front of the church, rising from pedestals resembling candelabra, executed 1505, once bore the banners of the kingdoms of Cyprus, Candia and the Morea, to commemorate their subjugation by the republic. The interior of the church is sumptuously adorned with numerous mosaics of the 10th and subsequent centuries, as well as with gold, bronze and oriental marble. The area occupied by the mosaics amounts to 40,000 sq. ft. Since 1807 St. Mark’s has been the cathedral of Venice, a dignity formerly enjoyed by S. Pietro di Castello (p. 253). Over the principal portal are Four Horses in gilded bronze, 5 ft. in height, which were long supposed to be the work of a Greek master (Lysippus) ; they are now, however, believed to date from the period of the Roman Empire, probably from the time of Nero. They- are finely executed and are especially valuable as the sole specimen of an ancient quadriga which has come down to po*sterity uninjured by the ravages of time. They probably once adorned the triumphal arch of Nero, then that of Trajan. Constantine caused them to be conveyed to Constantinople, whence the Doge Dandolo brought them to Venice in 1204. In 1797 they were carried by Napoleon I. to Paris, where they afterwards occupied the summit of the triumphal arch in the Place Carrousel. In 1815 they were brought back to Venice by the Emp. Francis and restored to their former position. Facade. ^Mosaics in the arches, best surveyed from the steps of the flagstaffs. Below, over the principal entrance, the Last Judgment, exe- cuted in 1836., r. the embarcation*,of the body of St. Mark at Alexandria, its disembarcation at Venice, both executed 1660; 1. the veneration of the saint,- of 1728, and the church of St. Mark into which the relics are con- veyed, of the 13th cent. — Above are the four horses in front of the great arched window, 1. and r. are four mosaics of the 17th cent., Descent from ihe Cross, Christ in Hell, Resurrection, Ascension. Entrance Hall (Atrio ) the entire breadth of the church: the vaul- ting consists entirely of mosaic, of which the older portion (12th cent.) represents Old Testament subjects, beginning on the r. with the Creation; 238 Route 36. VENICE. St. Marco. the modern part^ scenes from the New Testament; over the entrance to the church is St. Mark, executed in 1545 from a design by Titian. The Capitals of the Columns are said once to have belonged to the Temple at Jerusalem. The three red slabs commemorate the reconciliation between the Emp. Fred. Barbarossa and Pope Alexander III., which was here effected on July 23rd, 1177, through the mediation of the Doge Seb. Ziani. According to an old tradition the emperor kneeling before the pope saidr “non tibi sed Petro ”, to which the pope replied: "et mihi et Petro ”. Interior, 86 yds. in length, 70 yds. in width, with two domes and an apse. Over the Entrance-door Christ, Mary and St. Mark, of the 11th cent., one of the oldest mosaics in the church. The smooth marble pave- ment is very uneven at places from having settled. By the screen, r. and 1. of the approach to the high altar, are two Pulpits in coloured marble. The mosaic (of 1542) above in the N. aisle (1.) represents the genealogy of Mary. On the Screen are 14 statues in marble (of 1393), representing St. Mark, Mary and the 12 Apostles, with a bronze Crucifix. On the Archer on each side of the Choir are 6 reliefs in bronze, by Sansovino (d. 1570),/ representing events from the life of St. Mark. On the parapet of the Stalls the 4 Evangelists in bronze, by Sansovino, and the 4 Fathers of the- church, by Cagliari (1614). The High Altar ( Altar e Mag giore) stands beneath a canopy of verde antico, borne by four spiral columns of marble (with reliefs of the 11th cent.). The altar-piece consists of the Pala d'Oro , enamelled work with, jewels, wrought on plates of gold and silver, executed at Constantinople in 1105; if is uncovered on high festivals only. (It was originally intended to embellish the front of the altar.) Beneath the high altar repose the relics of St. Mark, as the marble slab at the back records. — Behind the- high altar is a second altar with four columns of alabaster, of which the two white ones are semi-transparent, said to have once belonged to the Temple of Solomon. — The Sacristy ( Sagrestm ), to the 1., possesses some fine mosaics on the vaulting; cabinets with inlaid work of 1523; by the door leading from the high altar, reliefs in bronze by Sansovino (1556). R. of the high altar: Cappella di S. Clemente , with altar-relief of the 16th cent., representing SS. Nicholas, James and Andrew and the Doge Andr. Gritti. In front of the Cappella del Sagramenio , in the r. transept, are two rich candelabra in bronze ; on the other side a corresponding pair. In the r. aisle is the Battisterio , in the centre of which is a large bronze font of 1545; above is John the Baptist. Also the monument of the Doge And. Dandolo (d. 1354). Over the altar is stone from Mt. Tabor. L. of the altar the head of John the Baptist, of the 15 cent.; beneath it is the stone on which he is said to have been beheaded. — From the Baptistery the stranger enters the *Cdppella Zeno, with the handsome monu- ment of Cardinal Giambattista Zeno (d. 1501), wrought entirely in bronze; on the sarcophagus is the figure of the cardinal, over life-size; beneath are the six Virtues. The *altar with the canopy are also cast in bronze, with the exception of the frieze and the bases of the columns. Over the altar are groups in bronze, of the Madonna, St. Peter and John the Baptist;, on the altar itself a relief of the Resurrection. To the r. and 1. two lions in coloured marble. Campanile. VENICE. 36. Route. 239 In the r. transept, is the entrance to tire Treasury ( Tesoro di S. Marco - open on Mondays and Fridays 121/2—2 o’clock, not on festivals). It con- tains a crystal vase with the “Blood of the Saviour”, a silver column with a fragment ot the “True Cross”, a cup of agate with a portion of the “skull of St. John”, the sword of the Doge Morosini, cuneiform writings 1 from Persepolis, an episcopal chair of the^ 7th cent., said to be that of St. Mark, and a number of other curiosities. A walk (in the company of the sacristan, V 2 fr.) round the Gallery within and without the church is recommended, as a better general view of the building may thus be obtained, and the mosaics more minutely inspected. The ascent is from a door te the r. in the principal portal, which the sacristan opens. On the S. Side of the church are two short square *Columns 7 inscribed with Coptic characters, brought hither from Ptolemais in 1256, from the church of St. Saba which was destroyed by the Venetians. From the Pietra del Bando , a block of porphyry at the corner, the decrees of the republic were anciently pro- mulgated. Two curious Reliefs in porphyry are immured by the entrance to the Palace of the Doges, representing two pairs of knightly and armed figures embracing each other. They are said also to have been brought from Ptolemais and have given rise to a great variety of conjectures, according to the most re- cent of which they represent four emperors of Byzantium of the 11th cent., and once adorned the pedestal of an eques- trian statue. Opposite St. Mark’s, to the S.W., rises the isolated square Cam- panile of. St. Mark, 304 ft. in height, which is always accessible to the public (doorkeeper 10 c.). The ascent is easy and the staircase well lighted. The watchman at the summit is provi- ded with a telescope and opens the door to the second gallery for a trifling gratuity. The *view comprises the city, the La- gune (comp, p.234), the Alps and a portion of the Adriatic; W, the Monti Euganei near Padua (p. 22l), rising from the Lagunef E. in clear weather the Istrian Mts. (p. 94), rising above the Adriatic, a magnificent spectacle towards sunset. The ascent of the campanile is recommended to the stranger both for a preli- minary survey and as an appropriate termination to his visit to Venice. The *Bronze Doors of the Loggetta, or vestibule, on the E. side (16th cent.), cast in 1750, merit inspection. This chamber once served as a waiting-room for the procurators, whose office it was, during the sessions of the great Council, to com- 240 Route 36. VENICE. Palace of the Doges. mand the guards. It is now employed for public auctions and "tombola” (lottery) drawings. The bronze statues of Peace, Apollo, Mercury and Pallas and the reliefs on the socle are by Sansovino. The Clock Tower (La Torre dell’ Orologio), with the Italian dial (1—24), on the opposite side, at the E. extremity of the old Procuratie, rises over a gateway, resembling a triumphal arch, restored in 1859. On the platform are two Vulcans in bronze,' who strike the hours on a bell. The custodian of the clock! who lives in the building, shows and explains the mechanism (fee V 2 fr.). The entrance is beneath the archway. The Merceria (P* 231), the principal commercial street of Venice, here quits the Piazza of St. Mark and leads to the Ponte di Rialto (p. 259). On the W. side of the Piazzetta is the ^Library (Libreria Vecchia, or Antica Libreria di S . Marco), commenced by Sanso- vino in 1536, a magnificent structure of the 16th cent, and one of the finest secular edifices in Italy. In the direction of the Lagune are two Granite Columns, one of which bears the Win- ged Lion of St. Mark, the emblem of the tutelary saint of Ve- nice; the other is surmounted by St. Theodore on a crocodile, the patron of the ancient republic. This is the headquarters of the gondoliers. On the Lagune, between the Library and the former Imperial Garden, is situated the Zecca or Mint, from which the well known Venetian coin, the Zecchino or sequin •^derives its name. The **Palace of the Doges ( Palazzo Ducale , PI. 23), the W. side of which, 230 ft. in length, faces the Piazzetta, and the S. side, 220 ft. in length, looks towards the Molo, was founded in 800, subsequently destroyed five times and as often re-erec- ted in a style of greater magnificence. The present sumptuous structure, in the Moorish-Gothic style, dates from the 14th cent. On the W. towards the Piazzetta and on the S. towards the Molo the palace is flanked by two colonnades of 107 columns (36 below, 71 above), one above the other, with pointed vaul- ting. The mouldings of the upper colonnade are remarkable for their richness. From between the two columns of red marble (9th and 10th from the principal portal) in the upper colon- nade, or Loggia, the Republic anciently caused its sentences of death to be published. The capitals of the short columns be- Pal. of the Doges. VENICE. 36. Route. 241 low are most richly decorated with foliage, figures of men and animals etc. On the corner-pillar by the portal is a group re- presenting the Judgment of Solomon, the “justizia alia vedova ” , as the long inscription terms it. (Porphyry-reliefs at the corners to dhe 1., see p. 239). The fine Portal adjoining St. Mark’s, con- structed of marble of different colours, is termed the Porta della Carta , from the placards formerly exhibited here to announce the decrees of the republic. Justice is represented in the pediment. The Court contains two Cistern-fronts in bronze. To the r. on the facade of the Clock Tower is a statue of the Venetian general Duke Francis Maria I. of Urbino (d. 1625), Opposite to the Scala dei Oiganti are Adam and Eve, by Antonio Rizzo, 1462. The facade of the E. Wing is admirably executed. One of the highest windows to the 1. is that of the former prison of the poet Count Silvio Pellico, who was subsequently incar- cerated from 1822 to 1830 in the Spielberg at Briinn (in Moravia). The Scala dei Giganti , the flight of steps by which the pa- lace is entered, derives its appellation from the colossal statues of Mars and Neptune above, executed by Sansovino in 1554. On the highest landing of these steps the doges were once wont to be crowned. The site of the Scala dei Giganti was formerly occupied by another flight of steps, on which the ill-fated Doge Marino Falieri, then in his eightieth year, was beheaded as a traitor April 17tb, 1355. On the gallery above are placed the busts of a number of Venetian scholars, artists and doges. The first staircase is the Scala d’Oro , once only accessible to those whose names were en- tered as Nobili in the Golden Book. A small adjacent room bears the inscription : “ Ingresso ai Pozzi , antiche carceri d'lnqui- zione di stato, ed al Ponte dei Sospiri”. Guides (unnecessary except for the prisons, which scarcely merit inspection) are here in readiness to conduct visitors through the palace of the doges. Fee 1 fr. for a single visitor, 1V 2 — ‘ 2 fr. for a party (to each of the three custodians of the different apartments 20 — 30 c., for a party V 2 fr.). The visitor then ascends the next broad stair- case closed by a gate, leading to the principal saloons designated as No. I., to the r., and to the Archaeological Museum, No. II., to the 1. ; one story higher is No. III., with the inscription “Storia Naturale”. Bsedeker. Italy I. 16 242 Route 36. VENICE. Pal. of the Doges. I. A door (generally open; if not, visitors ring) leads hence to the rooms of the Library, the first of which is the *Sala del Maggior Consiglio. In this large saloon (154 ft. long, 75 ft. broad, 45 ft. high) the Robili, whose names were entered in the "Golden Book”, and who constituted the highest authority in the Republic, formerly held their sessions. In 1848 — 49 the deputies under the Dictator Manin also assem- bled here. On the frieze are the portraits of 76 doges, from Angelo Participaco (d. 827) to Lodovico Manin (1797)-, on the walls 21 large pic- tures by Bassano , Paolo Veronese , Tintoretto etc., painted to commemorate the achievements of the Republic, especially against Fred. Barbarossa. On the E. wall Jac. Tintoretto's Paradise, said to be the largest oil-painting in the world, containing a perplexing multitude of figures. — The series of Historical Pictures commences on the S. wall: 1. Doge Enrico Dandolo and French Crusaders swear an oath of alliance at St. Mark’s in 1201, for the purpose of liberating the Holy Land, by Giov. Le Clerc; 2. Storming of Zara in 1202, by Andr. Vicentino; 3. Surrender of Zara to the Crusaders in 1202, by Bom. Tintoretto. (Fine view from the window, of the Lagune and the islands of S. Giorgio and Giudecca.) 4. Alexius, son of the de- throned Greek Emperor Isaac Angelos, requesting -the aid of the Venetians in behalf of his father, 1202, by Andrea Vicentino ; 7. Count Baldwin of Flanders elected Greek Emp. in the church of St. Sophia, 1204, by Andr. Vicentino ; 8. Coronation of Baldwin by the Doge Enrico Dandolo, 1204, by Aliense. (Above this, a black tablet on the frieze among the portraits of the Doges bears the inscription: Hie est locus Marini Falethri decapitati pro criminibus; comp. p. 241). *9. Return of the Doge Andr. Contarini from the victory over the Genoese fleet near Chioggia, 1378, by Paolo Veronese ; 10. Pope Alexander III. presenting gifts to the Doge Ziani in recognition of his defence of the papal throne against Fred. Barbarossa, e. g. a ring, as a symbol with which the Doge annually “wed the Adriatic”, 1177, by Giulio dal Moro; 11. (over the door) Conclusion of peace between the Pope, Doge and Emp. Fred. Barbarossa, by Girolamo Gambarato; *12. Fred. Barbarossa kneeling before the Pope (p. 238), by Federigo Zuccaro; 13. Pope Alexander granting permission to Otho, son of the Emperor, to repair to his father in order to negotiate a peace, by Palma Giovine; 14. (over the door) The Doge presenting the son of the Emperor to the Pope, by Andr. Vicentino ; 15. Battle of Salvore (Pirano , p. 94), conquest of the Imperial fleet and capture of Otho, 1177, by Dorn. Tintoretto; 16. (over the window) Departure of the Doge with the papal benediction, by Paolo Fiammengo ; 17. The Pope presenting a sword to the. Doge, by Franc. Bassano; 18. The am- bassadors of the Pope and the Doge presenting to Fred. Barbarossa at Pavia a petition for a cessation of hostilities, by Jac. Tintoretto; 19. (over the window) Presentation of the consecrated candles, by Leandro Bassano; 20. Parting audience of the ambassadors of the Pope and the Doge on their departure for Parma, 21. Meeting of Pope Alexander III. and the Doge Seb. Ziani at the monastery della Carita, both by pupils of P. Veronese. The ceiling-paintings are by P. Veronese , Bassano , Tintoretto and Palma Giovine; the large central painting, representing the Glory of Venice, is by P. Veronese. The Bala del Scrutinio contains 05ie picture only on the wall, by Palma Giovine , representing the Last Judgment; the others by Tintoretto are in a damaged condition. On the frieze portraits of doges. Pal. of the Doges. VENICE. 36. Route. 243 The celebrated Library of St. Mark, containing many rare MSS., and the valuable and extensive Collection of Coins are only accessible by spe- cial permission. II. The Archaeological Museum, occupying the apartments in which the doges resided till the close of the 16th cent., contains ancient sculptures in marble. 1st Saloon: colossal Minerva; 4 candelabrum- pedestals (Nos. 68. and 70. the finest); two colossal *Muses (from the amphitheatre at Pola). — 2nd S.: 102. Copy of the Eros, bending his bow, of Praxiteles, in Parian marble; 112. Odysseus in a posture of attack; 113., 187. Two heads of Pan; 138. Leda; *148. Ganymede carried off by the eagle, restored. The chimney-piece dates from the close of the 15th cent. — 3rd S. : old maps ; in a cabinet the celebrated *Map of the World by the Camaldulensian monk Fra Mauro, 1457—59 ; six tablets of carved wood by Hadgi Mehemet of Tunis (1559), representing the globe. — 4th S. : 195. Fragment of a sarcophagus ; 196. Sarcophagus with the destruction of the children of Niobe; 231. Fragment of a Greek frieze, battle of the Greeks and Trojans around the ships; 239. Four- sided base of a cande- labrum. — 5th E. : 250. Colossal head of a satyr; 299. Colossal female head. HI. Upper Story: Sala della Bussola, once the ante- chamber of the three Inquisitors of the Republic; by the entrance is an opening in the wall, formerly decorated by a lion’s head in marble, into the mouth of which (bocca di leone) documents containing secret information were formerly thrown. This apartment contains two pictures by Aliense: Taking of Brescia 1426, and Taking of Bergamo, 1427. — Sala del Consign o dei Died: Pope Alexander III. and the Doge Ziani, the conqueror of Emp. Fred. Barba- rossa, by Bassano; Peace of Bologna, concluded in 1529 between Pope Clement VII. and Emp. Charles V., by Marco Vecellio ; on the ceiling near the entrance, portraits of an old man and a handsome woman , by Paolo Veronese. The visitor now retraces his steps through the Sala della Bussola and enters the Sala dei tre capi del Consiglio , with ceiling-paintings (an angel driving away the vices) by Paolo Veronese; chimney-piece by Sanso- vino ; caryatides by Pietro da Said. — A passage leads hence to the Atrio Quadrato, with ceiling-painting by Tintoretto, representing the Doge Priuli receiving the sword of justice. — Sala delle quattro Porte: doors designed by Palladio, 1575; r. Verona reconquered by the Venetians, 1439, by Giov. Contarini; the Doge Ant. Grimani kneeling before Religion, by Titian; 1. the Arrival of Henry III. of France at Venice, by Andrea Vicentino; the Doge Cicogna receiving the Persian ambassadors in 1585, by Carletto Cagliari. — Sala del Senato (door on the r.): over the throne a Descent fromrthe Cross by Tintoretto; on the wall, the Doge Franc. Venier before Venice, the Doge Cicogna in presence of the Saviour, Venetia on the Lion against Europa on the Bull (an allusion to the League of Cambray, see p. 233), all three by Palma Giovine ; the Doge Pietro Loredan imploring the aid of the Virgin for Venice, by Tintoretto; ceiling-painting, Venice the queen of the ocean, by Tintoretto (beyond it is the ante-chamber leading to the Chapel of the Doges, which is generally closed). — Sala del Collegio: r. the. Nuptials of St. Catharine (beneath, the Doge Franc. Dona), Virgin in glory (with the Doge Niccolo da Ponte), Adoration of the Saviour (with 16 * 244 Route 36. VENICE. Arsenal. the Doge Aloise Mocenigo), all three by Tintoretto ; over the throne a me- morial picture of the *Battle of Lepanto, Christ in glory (beneath, the Doge Yenier, Venetians, St. Mark, St. Justina etc.), both by Paolo Veronese; opposite, the Prayer of the Doge Andrea Gritti to the Virgin, by Tintoretto. Ceiling-paintings, Neptune and Mars , Faith, Venetia on the globe with Justice and Peace, all by Paolo Veronese. — Anticollegio : *Rape of Europa, by Paolo Veronese; Jacob’s return to Canaan, by Bassano; Forge of Vulcan, Mercury with the Graces, both by Tintoretto. — Ceiling-painting, Venetia enthroned, by Paolo Veronese. On the E. side the Palace of the Doges is connected with the Carceri or Prigioni, constructed 1512 — 97 by Giov. da Ponte, by means of the lofty Bridge of Sighs ( Ponte dei Sospiri). The Piornbi , or prisons beneath the leaden roof of the Palace, were destroyed in 1797 ; the Pozzi, or half-ruined dungeons on the farther side of the narrow canal on the E. side of the Palace, have been disused since the commencement of the 17th cent. These once dreaded prisons, where so many victims of a bigo- ted and tyrannical age have languished, contain absolutely no- thing to interest the traveller beyond the mere historical associa- tions. A good survey of the Bridge of Sighs is obtained from the Ponte della Paglia (p. 229), which connects the Molo with the adjacent Riva dei Schiavoni, a quay paved with unpolished slabs of marble and presenting a busy scene. Numerous sailors of all nations, from the vessels which lie in the vicinity, are seen loun- ging here or congregated at the cafes. From the Riva a view is obtained of the Oiardini Pubblici (p. 361), situated on the prolongation of the hank at the S.E. extremity of Venice. The *Arsenal (PI. 3; accessible 9—1 o’clock gratis; guide through the armoury V 2 f r -> the inspection of the wharves and workshops, which are uninteresting, occupies 1 hr., guide 1 fr.) at the time of the Republic employed 16,000 workmen, now 2000 only. The decline of Venice is nowhere so apparent as here. The Austrians, moreover, carried off almost the entire contents of the establishment in 1866, as well as a considerable portion of the collection of ancient weapons. At the outer entrance are the four celebrated antique lions, brought here in 1687 as tro- phies from the Piraeus; the large one on the 1., the body of which is covered with inscriptions no longer legible, is con- jectured once to have stood on the battle-field of Marathon. Academy. VENICE. 36. Route. 245 Interior. On the external wall of the magazine is a monument of Count Schulenburg, a general of the Republic (d. 1747). The collection of weapons contains the remains of the Bucentoro, a vessel destroyed by the French, from which the Doge was wont annually on Ascension Day to throw the ring (p. 242) into the Adriatic, which he thus symbolically wedded. Here, too, is a marble monument to Admiral Angelo Emo (d. 1792) by Canova; opposite to it the suit of armour of Henry IV. of France, presented to the Republic; several trophies of historical interest, banners from tbe battle of Lepanto, armour of former doges, revolvers and breech-loaders of a primitive description of the 16th cent., a finely executed ~ culverin of steel, adorned with reliefs, instruments of torture, iron helmet of Attila, king of the Huns, model of the piles on which Ve- nice is to a great extent built. — The extensive wharves and workshops are now comparatively deserted. The state -bark employed by Victor Emmanuel in 1866 is also shown (additional fee). The *Accademia delle Belle Arti (PI. 1) in the suppressed Scuola della Caritci , the assembly-hall of this brotherhood, on the Grand Canal, opposite the S. extremity of the iron bridge (p. 257) and V 2 from the Piazza of St. Mark, may easily be attained on foot. (On the way thither are situated S. Maria Zolenigo, p. 253, and S. Stefano, p. 255). The entrance is in the cloisters, to the 1., then an ascent to the first floor. Admission on week- days 9 — 3, on festivals 11 — 2 o’clock. Trifling fee to the custo- dian at the door. Permission' to copy is granted, if written application, coupled with a recommendation from the stranger’s consul, be made. Full-size copies not generally allowed. The gallery contains almost exclusively pictures by Venetian masters, Titian, Paolo Veronese, Tintoretto, the elder and the younger Palma, Pordenone, Giorgione, Bassano etc. Sal a I. (ancient pictures): 1. Bart. Vivarini , Mary and four saints, painted in 1464; 5. Lorenzo Veneziano and Franc. Bissolo , Altar-piece in sections, in the centre the Annunciation, above it God the Father; 11. Vin- cenzo Catena , St. Augustine; 18. Aloiso Vivarini , St. Antony; 21. Bartolom- meo Vivarini , S. Clara; *23. Giovanni d'Alemagna and Antonio da Murano , Madonna enthroned, with four Fathers of the church, painted in 1496. Sal a H. (dell' Assunta ), the ceiling richly gilded, in the lunettes por- traits of painters of the Venetian school, painted 1849—55, the light un- favourable. Opposite to the staircase: **24. Titian , Assumption (Assunta, whence the name of the saloon). Farther on, to the r. : 25. Tintoretto , The Fall of man; *31. Marco Basaiti , Call of the sons of Zebedee (James and John) ; 33. Titian , Entombment, his last picture, with which he was still en gaged at the time of his death, in his 99th year, completed by Palma Giov.; 35 . Titian, Assumption, his first picture; *38. Giov. Bellini , Virgin and Child with six saints; 40. Palma Giov., The white horse of the Apo- calypse; *45. Tintoretto , St. Mark releasing a condemned slave; 47. Pado- vanino , Marriage of Cana ; 50. Bonifazio , The adulteress before Christ ; 246 Route 36. VENICE. Academy. 51. Tintoretto f Portrait of the Doge Luigi Mocenigo ; 54. Bonifazio , Solomon's judgment; 55. Paolo Veronese, Virgin in glory, benejath is St. Dominicus, distributing crowns of roses to the pope, emperor and king, doges, car- dinals etc.; 59. Palma Vecchio , Assumption; 60. JRocco Marconi , Christ, Peter and John; 62. Paolo Veronese, Scourging of St. Christina. Sala III. (adjoining the Assunta on the r.): Marble bust of Giov. Bellini; 71. Giov. Bellini, Madonna; 72 . Palma Vecchio , St. Stephen, and other saints; 73. Tintoretto, Miracles of St. Agnes; 74. Giov. Batt. Cima, John the Baptist, SS. Peter, Mark, Jerome and Paul, all from the church of the Madonna del Orto (p. 252). Sala IV. (to the 1., reached by a staircase), academic assembly-hall, with numerous old drawings, among them a sketch-book by Raphael (this saloon is open on Tuesd. and Sat. only, 12—3 o’clock). Sala V. (containing the Pinacoteca Contarini, presented in 1843 by Count Contarini), Sala Maggiore: 1. 84. Palma Vecchio, Christ and the widow of N ain; *94. Giov . Beltini, Madonna, painted 1487; 107. Sassoferrato , St. Cecilia; 110. Andrea Cordele Ayi, Madonna with St. Catharine and St. John; 124. Vine. Galena, Madonna with John the Baptist and St. Jerome; 125. Cima da Conegliano , Madonna with John the Baptist and St. Peter; 132. Boccaccino da Cremona, Madonna and saints ; 151. Jacques C allot , Market at Impruneta near Florence, a large picture with numerous figures and groups; 164. Callot , Pont Neuf at Paris (?). Sala VI. ( Cabinetto Contarini), containing 66 small pictures.- The most interesting, as affording samples of the Venetian costumes and habits of the past century, are Nos. 229., 230., 231., 241., 242., 243., all by Pietro Longhi. Sala VII. contains a number of sculptures, among which are groups of Ethiopian slaves in ebony, bearing Japanese vases, executed about the middle of last centurg. Sala VIII.: 266. — 268. Portraits attributed to Holbein; 273. Mantegna , St. George. Sala IX.: 277. Lucas Cranach -(?), .Lot and his daughters; *280. and *281. Hondekoeter , Hen and chickens, Victorious cock; 295. Tintoretto, Por- trait of Antonio Capello ; 301. Titian , Portrait of his own mother; 306. Ti- nelli, Portrait; 313. Bellini, Madonna; 315. Corn. Engelbrechtsen, Crucifixion; 318. Greg. Schiavone , Madonna; 319. Titian, Portrait of Jacopo Soranzo ; 326. Bonifazio, Madonna andsaints ; 337. Bissolo, Madonna and saints ; 338. Miere- velt, Portrait of a general ; 349. Antonello da Messina, Mater Dolorosa ; 350. Titian , Portrait of Priamo da Lezze; 352. Tommaso da Modena, St. Catharine. Sala X.: 361. Montagna, Madonna and saints; *366. Titian, John the Baptist in the wilderness; 367. Bassano, Holy Family; 372. G. Bellini, Ma- donna and sleeping Child. Sala XI. contains old Italian pictures of little value. Sala XII.: 404. Andrea Busati, St. Mark enthroned, St. Andrew and St. Francis; most of the othpr pictures are unimportant. Sala XIII. ( Pinacoteca Renier , presented by Countess Renier in 1850). 424. Giov. Bellini, Madonna with St. Paul and St. George; 429. Cima, Entomb- ment; 432. School of L. da Vinci, Jesus and the scribes; *436. Giov. Bellini SS. Mary, Magdalena and Catharine. Churches. VENICE. 36. Route. 247 Sal a XIV.: 456. Cima, Christ with SS. Thomas and Magnus; 460 . Bas- sano , Portrait of a doge; 465. Titian, Portrait of Antonio Capello (see above, Sala IX.). *S al a XV. : Comoro's original model of the group of Hercules and Lychas; 473. Pietro dn Cortona,, Daniel in the lions 1 den; *487. Titian, Presen- tation of Mary in the Temple; 486. Pordenone , Mary and saints; 490. Pordenone , Pour saints; 489. P. Veronese , Annunciation; *492. Paris Bordone , The fisherman presenting to the doge the ring received from St. Mark ; 495. Rocco Marconi , Descent from the Cross; *500. Bonifazio, Banquet of Dives; 505. Bo- nifazio , Saviour and saints ; 516. Bonifazio , Christ and the Apostles; 519. Paolo Veronese , Madonna and saints; 524 .Bonifazio, Slaughter of the Innocents. *Sala XVI. contains very large pictures only: 529. Gentile Bellini , Miraculous finding of a fragment of the “True Cross” which had fallen into the canal ; 533., 537., 539., 542., 544., 546., 549., 552., 554:, 560. Vittore Carpaccio , History of St. Ursula, painted in 1475 — 95; 534. Marco Basaiti , Jesus on the Mt. of Olives ; *547. Paolo Veronese , Jesus in the house of Levi; *555. Gentile Bellini , Procession in the Piazza of St. Mark, painted in 1491 (interesting as showing the aspect of the piazza at that date, differing materially from its present form); 559. Carpaccio , Martyrdom of the 10,000 Christians on Mt. Ararat, painted in 1515. Sala XVII.: 572. Bonifazio, Adoration of the Magi; 582. Cima, Madonna and saints; 593. Palma Vecchio, Peter and saints. Sala XVIII. contains modern pictures of professors and pupils of the Academy. Sala XIX. contains pictures from 1700, most of them of mediocre value: 651. Canaletto , Architectural piece; 663. and 668. Carriero , Portraits in chalks. Sala XX. Modern pictures. Finally a room containing drawings, those by Leon, da Vinci especially interesting; several reliefs; an urn containing the r. hand of Canova, etc. The staircase hence leads back to the Sala dell 1 Assunta. The unfinished fragment of a three-storied open hall by Palladio, behind the Academy, merits the inspection of architects. Venice possesses 90 Churches, of which the following are the most remarkable. They are usually open from 6 to 1 o’clock {comp. p. 230). The description of the interior commences in «ach case on the r. side. Santi Apostoli (PI. 2), erected in 1672, contains the Cap- pella Corner, which appertained to the former church and possesses rich decorations of the 16th cent, and two monuments of the Corner family. In the Cappella Maggiore : r. Last Supper, by Ce- sare da Conegliano; 1. Fall of Manna, by Paolo Veronese. S. Crisostomo (PI. 13), near the Ponte Rialto, to the N., erected 1483, is in the Renaissance style; 1st altar r., Three saints, by Bellini ; principal altar, St. Chrysostom and saints, by Seb. del Piombo; base of the altar, ^Entombment, a high relief ViSU WtA VENICE. Churches. 248 Route 36. by an unknown master. Altar to the 1., Coronation of tbe Vir- gin, and the 12 Apostles, reliefs by Tullio Lombardo. S. Francesco della Vigna (PI. 5), interior constructed in 1534 by Sansovino, facade by Andr. Palladio 1568—72. In the 1st chapel on the r., Last Supper, by Franc. Santacroce ; 3rd chapel r. fitted up with coloured marble, property of the Conta- rini family; 4th chapel r., Resurrection, by Paolo Veronese. In the r. transept, Enthroned Madonna, by Fra Antonio da Negro - ponte. L. of the high altar the *Cappella Oiustinian , front of the altar consisting entirely of a relief in marble. Last Judgment beneath, St. Jerome and four saints above, over them Madonna and angels, at the sides 12 prophets and the 4 Evangelists, still higher the history of Jesus in 18 sections, below on the altai the history of St. Jerome in 3 sections, the whole an admirably executed work of the 15th cent. (In the court of the monastery a Madonna and four “saints, , by Bellini.') Over the pulpit, God the Father and Christ, by Girolamo Santacroce. In the 1st cha- pel to the 1. a Madonna and four saints, by Paolo Veronese ; 3rd chapel, fitted up with marble, containing busts of the Patriarch and the Doge Sagredo, erected in 1743, over the altar the statue of /S. Gherardo. **Frari ($. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari , Church of the Francis- cans, PI. 6), a cruciform church with aisles, in the pointed style, supported by 12 circular pillars, one of the largest and most beautiful structures in Venice, was erected by Nicola Pi- sano in the middle of the 13th cent. It contains numerous mo- numents, sculptures and pictures, and like S. Giovanni e Paolo (p. 250) iff the last resting-place of many eminent men. S. Aisle. Adjoining the 1st altar the *Monument of Titian (d. 1576), erected by Emp. Ferd. I., completed by Luigi and Pietro Zandomeneghi in 1852, a vast architectural group-, beneath are two figures with tablets bearing inscriptions. In the centre between four columns Titian sitting by an angel and- uncovering the statue ofSais^on the columns are figures of Sculpture, Architecture, Painting and Religion. On the wall are reliefs of the three most, celebrated pictures of Titian, the Assumption (p. 245), Martyrdom of St. Peter (p.251) and Martyrdom of St. Lawrence (p. 250) ; above, the lion of St. Mark. — By the 2nd altar the monument of a Prince of Modena (d. 1660), with a statue ; 3rd altar, St. Jerome, a statue by Alessandro Vittoria , said to possess the features and figure of Titian when in his 98th year} 4th altar, Martyrdom of St. Catharine by Palma Giovine. — The Vincenzio Chapel contains tablets in bronze with fine groups. Churches. VENICE. 36. Route. 249 S. Transept. *Monument of Jacopo Marcello, a sarcophagus borne by male figures ; altar-piece in four sections by Bart. Vivarini. Over the door of the sacristy the Mausoleum of Benedetto Pesaro (d. 1503). — In the sacristy, opposite the door, a shrine with reliefs in marble of the 17th cent.; *altar-piece, a Madonna and saints, by Bellini; on the wall to the 1., Madonna and saints, attributed to Titian. — Farther on in the church is the monument with equestrian statue of Paolo Savelli (d. 1405). Choir Chapels. 2nd Chapel to the r.: on the r. the monument of Duccio degli Alberti, 1. that of an unknown warrior, both of the 14th cent. — Chapel of the Choir: r. mausoleum of the Doge Franc. Foscari (d. 1457), 1. that of the Doge Mccolo Tron (d. 1473), both by Ant. Rizzo. — Chapels l. of the Choir: 1st, altar-piece, Madonna and saints, by Bern. Licinio; 2nd, monument of Melch. Trevisan (d. 1500), the altar in coloured and gilded carved wood, in the centre John the Baptist in wood, by Donatello ; 3rd, altar-piece, St. Ambrose and saints, by Vivarini and Marco Basaiti, r. St. Ambrose on horseback expelling the Arians , by Giov. Contarini. N. Transept. Altar-piece in 3 sections, St. Mark with saints, by Bart. Vivarini: monument of Generosa and Maffeo Zen, 15th cent. — Baptistery : altar-piece in marble, St. Peter, Mary and 8 saints, of the 15th cent. ; over the font a statue of John the Baptist, by Sansovino. N. Aisle. Tomb, of Jac. Pesaro (d. 1547); *altar-piece, Madonna with saints and members of the Pesaro family, by Titian , who has intro- duced a portrait of himself as Joseph; *mausoleum of the Doge Giov. Pesaro (d. 1659), a rich and handsome architectural monument occupying the entire wall, with peculiar figures (destitute of taste) of negroes as bearers. ^Mausoleum of Canova (d. 1822), u principis sculptorum aetatis suae ”, erected in 1827 from the master’s own design for Titian’s monument ('■'■ex conlatione Europae universae ”), executed by Fabris. — By the portal the sarcophagus of Pietro Bernardo (d. 1538). The adjacent monastery contains the Archives , one of the most magnificent collections of this description in the world. In the 298 saloons and chambers about 14 million documents are preserved, the earliest dating from 883. Gesuiti (PI. 8), erected 1715—30 in the baroque style, en- tirely clothed in the interior with marble inlaid with verde antico, is most sumptuously decorated like all the churches of this order (closed about noon and not again opened). At the high altar are 10 spiral columns of verde antico, in the centre a globe, with God the Father and the Son. The marble mosaic pave*- ment in front of the altar resembles a carpet. The pulpit with its hangings are also in marble. The chapel to the r. of the- high altar contains the monument and statue of Orazio Farnese (d. 1654); in the chapel on the 1. is the monument of the Doge Pasquale Cicogna (d. 1595); 1. Assumption, an altar-piece by 250 Route 36. VENICE. Churches. Tintoretto. In the 1st chapel on the 1 . the ^Martyrdom of St. Lawrence, an altar-piece by Titian, unfortunately darkened by age. *S. Giorgio Maggiore (PI. 11), a cruciform church with dome and apses terminating the transepts, commenced by Palladio in 1560, is situated on a fortified island opposite the Piazzetta, and belongs to the adjoining Benedictine monastery. Over the door in the interior a portrait of Pope Pius VII., i,n comme- moration of an ordination of Cardinals held by him here in 1800. To the r. the monument of Lorenzo Venier (d. 1667). Over the 1st altar, Nativity, by Bassano; 2nd, Crucifix in wood, by Michelozzo Michelozzi; 3rd* Martyrdom of several saints ; 4th, Coronation of the Virgin, the two last by Tintoretto ; over the high altar a *group in bronze by Girolamo Cam- pagna, representing God the Father on a gilded globe borne by the 4 Evan- gelists, beside them two angels ; two candelabra in bronze date from the 17th cent. 5 the 48 *choir-stalls, admirably carved in wood in the 17th cent, by Alberto de Brule of Flanders, represent scenes from the life of St. Bene- dict. — Over the door to the Corridor, the mausoleum of the Doge Do- menico Michiel (d. 1129), erected iu 1637. - To the 1 ., farther on in the church, Resurrection and Martyrdom of St. Stephen, bdth by Tintoretto (inferior works); Virgin and Child, a group over life-size by Girolamo Campagna ; last altar, Martyrdom of St. Lucia, by Bassano ; monument •of the Doge Marc Antonio Memmo (d. 1616). A staircase consisting of 32 spiral flights, well lighted and of easy ascent, leads to the summit of the Campanile , which commands the finest **View in Venice of the city, the Lagune, the distant Alps etc. **S. Giovanni e Paolo, popularly known as “S. Zanipolo" (PI. 12), commenced 1240, completed 1430, is a very spacious and magnificent Gothic edifice, supported by ten circular co- lumns, and surmounted by a dome. Next to St. Mark’s this is the most imposing church at Venice, and should if possible be visited repeatedly by the stranger. It was formerly the burial- church of the doges, whose funeral-service was always performed here, and may be termed the Westminster Abbey of Venice. S. Aisle. *Mausoleum of the victorious Doge Pietro Mocenigo (d. 1476), with 15 statues; the sarcophagus is u ex hostium manubiis' 1 ' 1 (from the spoils of his enemies). A pyramid- to the memory of the painter Melch. Lanza (d. 1674); monument of Marc Antonio Bragadin (d. 1571), who long defended Famagosta in Cyprus against the Turks, and after its surrender was barbarously flayed alive, as the picture above indicates ; altar-piece in 9 sections by Bellini (or Carpaccio ) ; altar-piece in the chapel, Descent from the Cross, by Pietro Liberi. Over the doors the *Mausoleum of Bertucci, Silvestro andElisabetta Valier with their statues, a rich architectural monument in marble of the 18th cent., embellished with numerous small statues and reliefs. In the chapel below the monument, St. Hyacinth cros- sing a river dry-shod, by L. Bassano. The following chapel contains six reliefs in bronze and wood, scenes from the life of St. Dominicus, 1720. Churches. VENICE. 36. Route. 251 S. Transept. At the corner, St. Augustine, an oil-painting by Vivarini; mausoleum of General Niccolo Orsini (d. 1509), beneath it an oil-painting, St. Mark aiding in the manning of the fleet, by Gianibatt. del Moro ; St. Antony, an altar-piece ;by Lorenzo Lotto; stained glass de- signed by Vivarini (1473) $ altar-piece, Christ, SS. Andrew and Peter, by Rocco Marconi. — The chapels on the r. and 1. of the choir contain no- thing worthy .of note. Choir. Mausolea of the Doges Michele Morosini (d. 1382), ^Leonardo Loredan (d. 1521) , *Andrea Vendramin (d. 1478) (by Alessandro Leonardo , one of the most sumptuous and beautiful monuments in Venice), and *Marco Corner (d. 1368). N. Transept. Above, by the entrance to the chapel of the Rosary, a *group in marble by Antonio Dentone, of the 15th cent., representing St. Helena presenting General Vittore Capello with the marshal’sb aton $ over the door the monument of the Doge Antonio Venier (d. 1400). — *Cappella del Rosario , founded in 1571, ' to commemorate the victory of Lepanto (Curzolari): on the walls wood-carving and battle-pieces (by Tintoretto) $ adjacent to, and at the back of the altar, 10 highly artistic and carefully •executed ^Reliefs in marble, by different masters from 1600 to 1732, re- presenting scenes from the life of the Saviour and the Virgin. This chapel formerly .contained the celebrated picture of Titian , representing St. Peter attacked in a wood and murdered, also a Madonna by Bellini. Both these works were destroyed by a conflagration on the night of Aug. 15th, 1867 $’ the entire chapel was converted into a ruin, and till the com- mencement of the present year was in a state of disorder. Other pictures were also removed from the church in consequence of the fire. — Monu- ment of the wife and daughter of the Doge Antonio Venier, 1411$ monu- ment, with equestrian statue, of Leon, da Prato (d. 1511). N. Aisle. Over the door of the Sacristy busts of Titian and the two Palmas, by Jac. Alberetti , 17th cent. ^Mausoleum of the Doge Pas- quale Malipiero (d. 1462)$ Monument of the senator Bonzio (d. 1501), beneath it statues of SS. Thomas and Peter the martyrs $ in the niches, r. the painted recumbent effigy of the Doge Michele Steno (d. 1413), 1. that of Aloysius Trevisan (d. 1528)$ monument, with equestrian statue, of General Pompeo Giustiniani$ ^monument of the Doge Tommaso Moce- nigo (d. 1423)$ monument of the Doge Riccolo Marcello (d. 1474)$ monu- ment, with equestrian statue, of Orazio Baglioni (d. 1617)$ over the last altar a statue of St. Jerome by Aless. Vittoria; adjoining it, the monument of the Marquis de Chasteler (d. 1825), born at Mons in Belgium, who dis- tinguished himself in the Tyrolese war (1809). Mausoleum of the Doge Giov. Mocenigo (d. 1485). Over the Principal Entrance the mausoleum of the Doge Aloiso I. Mocenigo, his wife, and the Doge Giov. Bembo (d. 1618). Adjoining S. Giovanni e Paolo is the magnificent *Fagade (of 1485) of the Scuola di S. Marco (now a hospital), with singular reliefs in perspective, two lions and the achievements of St. Mark. To the S., on a lofty and elegant pedestal of marble, rises the equestrian * Statue of Bart. Colleoni (d. 1475), general of the republic, mo- delled by Andr. Verrocchio, cast in bronze by Aless. Leopardo. 252 Route 36. VENICE. Churches. ®‘ Gluliano (“8an Zulians”), was erected by Sansovino fra 1553 and consecrated in 1580. The chapel adjacent to the- high altar contains a marble relief of the Sleeping Saviour, by Girolamo Campagna. S. Lazzaro, the Armenian Mechitarist monastery on the is- land of that name, 2 M. S E. of Venice, possesses a valuable- Oriental library and an extensive printing-office. #** S. Marco, see p. 237. S. Maria Formosa (PI. 15) was erected in 1492. Over the 1st altar, *S. Barbara and four saints, with a Pieta above, by - Palma Vecchio; 2nd, Mary, Anna and St. Joachim, by Bart. Viva - rini. In the r. transept, Last Supper, by L. Bassano ; in the- choir modern frescoes, painted by Paoletti in 1844, representing Abraham’s Sacrifice, Christ driving out the money-changers etc. — The court of the adjacent Palazzo Grimani (PI. 30), which is reached by crossing the bridge to the E. behind the church, contains an ancient colossal statue of Marcus Agrippa , supposed to have once adorned the Pantheon at Rome. S. Maria dei Miracoli (PI. 16), a small, early Renaissance structure, erected 1480, is entirely covered in the interior with valuable marble. The quadrangular choir with dome, 12 steps higher than the nave, is peculiar (beneath it is the sacristy).. On the r. and 1. are ambos, or lecterns, where the epistles and gospels are read, the usual arrangement in the ancient Christian churches. The ^decorations are by Pietro Lombardo. The fretted vaulting is blackened with age. S. Maria del Orto (PI. 17), in a remote situation on the N.E. side of the city, with a flat wooden ceiling supported by 10 columns (undergoing restoration), possesses a * Facade in the most elegant late Gothic style, commenced 1473. It contains numerous pictures by Tintoretto and the tomb of the master. R. the monument of Hieronymus Caraccio (d. 1657) in the baroque style. In the choir, r. the Last Judgment, 1 . Adoration of the golden calf, large works by Tintoretto. Over the hJigh altar an Annunciation, by Palma Giovine , with surrounding pictures by Tintoretto. In the 1 . aisle the Capp. Contarini, containing busts of six members of the celebrated family of that name 5 among them that of the Cardinal (d. 1542), by Ales- sandro Vittoria. *S. Maria della Salute (PI. 18), a spacious and handsome church, surmounted by a dome, at the E. extremity of the Ca- nal Grande, adjacent to the Dogana di Mare (p. 257), was Churches. VENICE. 36. Route. 253 erected 1631 — 82 by Longhena. The three chapels on the r., contain Madonnas by Luca Giordano ; in the extreme chapel on the 1., Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Titian. The columns by which the vaulting of the choir is supported are from a Ro- man temple at Pola (p. 95). On the high altar a large can- delabrum in bronze, of admirable workmanship; the Virgin banishing the demons of the plague, a group in marble by Le Curt. The Ceiling-paintings by Titian. Outer Sacristy: *Pieta, a relief of the 15th cent, by Dentone (?) ; *St. Mark and 4 saints, by Titian; *St. Sebastian, by Marco B as aiti. — Sacristy : by the entrance-door, *St. Roch and other saints, by Girolamo da Tre- viso ; Marriage of Cana, Tintoretto; Madonna, Sassoferrato. Cei- ling-paintings by Titian. S. Maria Zobenigo (PI. 19), on the way from the Piazza of St. Mark to the Academy (p. 245), was erected in 1680 by the Barbaro family (“barbaro monumento del decadimento dell ’ arte”). The niches of the facade contain statues of members of the family. At the base of the lower row of columns are plans of Zara, Can- dia, Padua, Rome, Corfu and Spalato, hewn in the stone; on the bases of the columns are representations of naval battles. This curious facade is the only part of the church worthy of note. S. Pantaleone (PL 37), S.W. of and not far from the Frari (p. 248), was erected in 1668 — 75. The chapel 1. of the high altar contains (r.) a ^Coronation of the Virgin by Giovanni and Antonio da Murano , painted in 1444 ; also an ^Entombment in high relief, of the same date. S. Pietro di Gastello (PI. 50), a church with a dome, on the island on the E. side of Venice, commenced by Smeraldi in 1596, is said to have been designed by Palladio in 1557. Till 1807 it was the cathedral of the Patriarch of Venice, whose adjoining palace was converted by Napoleon into a barrack; on the same occasion St. Mark’s became the cathedral. The church offers little to interest the visitor. In the chapel of the 1. tran- sept are two reliefs in marble, executed by Mich. Ongaro in the 17th cent.; they represent the consecration by Pope Paul V. of the Patriarch Vendramin as cardinal, and an allegory of death. To the r. beyond the second altar is a marble throne from An- tioch. given out as that of St. Peter. The handsome and lofty adjacent Campanile dates from 1474. 254 Route 36. VENICE. Churches. *Redentor6 (PL 41), on the Giudecca, erected in 1576 hy Andr. Palladio , a spacious church with portals home hy columns^ is in the interior especially a fine and interesting structure. On the r., 1st Chapel: Nativity, hy Francesco Bassano ; 2nd, Bap- tism, Carletto Cagliari ; 3rd, Scourging, Tintoretto; 3rd Chapel tin the 1., Descent from the Cross, Palma Giov.; 2nd, Resurrection , F. Bassano; 1st, Ascension, Tintoretto. In front of the high altar, Christ bearing the Cross, behind it a Descent from the Cross, a relief in marble. The Sacristy contains the three finest ^Madonnas (covered by curtains) of Giovanni Bellini ; the best is that with the sleeping Child. Models in wax of the htiads of martyred missionaries are also preserved here. The church ^phrtains to the neighbouring Franciscan monastery. S. Rocco (PI. 42), in the rear of the Frari (p. 248), erected at various periods between 1490 and 1725, is adorned with rich marble sculpturing of the 15th cent. The chapel r. of the high altar contains a picture (covered) by Titian , representing Christ dragged to the Cross. The adjacent *8cuola di S. Rocco (PI. 45),. containing the council-halls of the brotherhood, commenced in 1517, possesses a most magnificent facade and handsome stair- case and hall ; bronze gates in front of the altar, by Joseph Fill- | berti of Florence, 1756 ; a number of pictures by Tintoretto , 1 among them his chef-d'oeuvre, a ^Crucifixion, of 1565; also an Annunciation and Ecce Homo by Titian. The church is acces- / sible daily 9 — 4 o’clock (custodian i / 2 fr). *S. Salvatore (PI. 43), on the way from the Piazza of St. Mark to the Rialto Bridge (p. 259), completed in 1534 (fa$ade 1663), surmounted by three flat domes which rest on circular vaulting, is one of the finest churches in Venice in this style. R. Aisle. Between the 1st and 2nd altars the monument of Proc. Andrea Dolfin (d. 1602) and his wife; ^between the 2nd and 3rd, that of the Doge Franc. Venier (d. 1556), an architectural ^monument hy Sanso- vino; over the 3rd altar (also by Sansovino) an Annunciation by Titian. — Transept: r. the monument of Catharine Cornaro (d. 1510), Queen of Cy- prus, who abdicated in 1489 in favour of Venice. — Choir. *Transfigu- ration, high altar-piece by Titian; behind it an altar-piece chased in sil- ver, with 27 scriptural representations, executed about 1290 — In the Chapel on the 1., Christ at Emmaus, by Oiov. Bellini. — L. Aisle. Mo- nument of three cardinals of the Cornaro family. — Over the altar 1. of the organ, statue of St. Jerome, by T. Lombardo. Monument of the brothers Churches. VENICE. 36. Route. 255 Girolamo (d. 1567) and Lorenzo Priuli (d. 1559), with gilded recumbent figures of the doges, a lofty architectural monument. Gli Scalzi (PI. 44), the sumptuous cliurch of the order of barefooted monks, immediately to the E. of the railway-station, erected 1649 — 89, affords an excellent sample of the decorative style of the I7th cent. It was greatly damaged by the bombard- ment of 1849, but was restored in 1860. Behind the high altar a Madonna by Bellini. (The church is closed at noon.) *S. Sebastiano (PI. 46), in the S.W. quarter of the city, near the Canal della Giudecca, contains a number of works by Paolo Veronese and his tomb. It was erected in 1506 — 18 and is now undergoing restoration. The pictures , temporarily removed, will probably soon be restored to their places. S. Side. 1st altar, St. Nicholas, painted by Titian in his 86 th year 5 2nd, Madonna, a small picture by Paolo; 3rd, *Madonna with John, a group in marble by Tommaso da Lugano; 4th, Christ on the Cross and theMaries, ( by Paolo ; ^monument of Bishop Livio Podocataro (d. 1555), by Sansovino. — Choir. Altar-piece, Madonna in glory and four saints, on the wall to the r. ^Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, 1. *Martyrdom of SS. Mark and Marcellinus, all three by Paolo. — Organ, on the external wing the Purification of Mary, on the internal the Pool of Bethesda, both by Paolo; to the 1 . the bust and near it the tomb of the master (d. 1588), bearing the inscription: “Paulo Galiaro Veronensi pictori, naturae aemulo, artis mira- culo , superstite fatis , fama victuro. n — S acristy. Ceiling-paintings by Paolo , Coronation of the Virgin, in the corners the 4 Evangelists. Farther on in the church the *Busf of the Procurator Marcantonio Grimani (d. 1565), by Vittoria; 2nd altar, Baptism of Christ, by Paolo; ceiling-paintings also by Paolo , aided by his brother Benedetto Cagliari. S. Simeone Piccolo (PI. 48), opposite the railway-station, W. of the iron bridge, erected 1718 — 38, with portal resting on columns, is surmounted by a dome in imitation of the Pantheon at Rome. The interior possesses nothing remarkable. *S. Stefano (PL 49), on the way from the Piazza of St. Mark to the Academy (p. 245), is a Gothic church of the 14th cent., with an elegant facade in brick and a peculiar vaulting of wood (restored). Adjacent to the Sacristy a Madonna with saints, a relief in bronze of the 16th cent. $ in the sacristy two admirably executed small statues of John the Baptist and St. Antony by Pietro Lombardo ; in the Cappella del Sagramento two candelabra in gilded bronze, 1577. — Choir. On the lateral walls statues of the 12 Apostles and four saints, and.reliefs of the 4 Evangelists and two Fathers of the church. Behind the high altar several choir-stalls carved and inlaid. In front of the high altar the tomb of Grand Duke Frederick, Austrian admiral 1847). — 3rd altar, 1. statues 256 Route 36. VENICE. Churches. of St. Jerome and St. Paul by Pietro Lombardo. By the Principal Entrance the ^mausoleum of the physician Jacopo Suriano (d. 1551). On the Pavement of the church is the large tombstone of the Doge Francesco Morosini “Peloponnesiaci” (.d. 1694), the cap and baton of office in bronze. ^Stained glass windows of no great value. *S. Zaccaria (PI. 56), near tlie Riva dei Schiavoni, erected 1457 — 1515, in the round-arch style, supported by six Corinthian columns, possesses a handsome facade. The recess of the high altar is in the Gothic style. Over the entrance the statue of St. Zacharias by Aless. Vittoria (d. 1605; his tombstone, with a bust by the master himself, “qui vivens vivos duxit e marmore vultus” , is at the extremity of the 1. aisle); over the basin for holy water a statuette of John the Baptist by the same master. The third arcade leads to the Coro delle Monache (choir of the nuns): ^Enthroned Madonna and saints, on the wall to the r., by Palma Vecchio (?); over the door, Birth of John the Baptist, by Tintoretto . In the Cappella di S. Tarasio (2nd on the r.) two gilded *altars in carved wood, of 1443—44, with old Italian pictures by the Vivarini of Murano. The Crypt belongs to the original structure, which was burned down in 1105. — Central altar of the choir, Circumcision, by Giovanni Bellini; 2nd altar (1.), *Madonna enthroned and four saints, by the same master. This picture was taken to Paris by the French in 1797, but restored in 1815. All the walls of the church are covered with large pictures. The **Grand Canal ( u Canalazzo” ), the main artery of the traffic of Venice, nearly 2 M. in length and 100—200 ft. in width, intersects the city from N.W. to S.E., dividing it into two unequal parts, and resembling an inverted 8 in shape. The Canal Grande occupies the same position at Venice as the Corso at Rome, the Toledo at Naples, or the Boulevards at Paris. Thou- sands of gondolas and barcas are here seen gliding in every di- rection. Handsome houses and magnificent palaces rise on its banks. The Grand Canal is the street of the Nobili, the ancient aristocracy of Venice. Little commercial traffic is here carried on, the channel being too shallow for sea-going vessels. A trip on the canal is most instructive and entertaining; it will bear frequent repetition and will afford the traveller the best op- portunity for carefully inspecting and studying the archi- tecture of the principal palaces. The gondolier points out Grand Canal. VENICE, 36. Route. 257 the most important edifices. The posts fpali) were formerly the distinguishing marks of the palaces of the nobles, and are still so to some extent, being painted with the heraldic colours of their proprietors. The following, commencing from the Piazzetta, are the most striking: Left. Dogana di Mare , the principal cus- tom-house , erected 1682 by Benoni ; the vane surmounting the large gilded hall on the summit of the tower con- sists of a gilded Fortuna. Seminario Patriarcale (PI. 47), with statues-, Gralleria Manfredin. S. Maria della Salute , see p. 252. Pal. Dario- Angarani, in the style of the Lombardi (15th cent.). Pal. Venier (unfinished). Pal. Du Mula. Pal. Zichy-Esterhazy . Pal. Manzoni- Angarani, of the period of the Lombardi (15th cent.), formerly an edifice of great magnificence, and the sole palace which stood in a feudal relation to the republic, now in a dilapidated condition. Right. Palazzo Giustiniani , now the Hotel Europa (PI. b), in the pointed style of the 15th cent. Pal. Emo-Tr eves (PI. 35) yin one of the apartments is a group of Hector and Ajax, over life-size, Canova’s last work (fee 1 fr.). Pal. Tiepolo - Zucchelli , now Hotel Barbesi. Pal. Fini , the property of the Coun- tess Wimpffen, containing a small collection of modern pictures, works of art and curiosities (admission daily 10 — 4 o’clock, fee 1 fr.). Casa Ferro , pointed out by the guides as the house of Desdemona. *Pal. Corner della Ca Grande (PI. 26), erected by Jac. Sansovino in 1532, with' spacious internal court, now the seat of the government authori- ties. *Pal. Cavalli , the property of the Duke of Bordeaux, in the pointed style of the 15th cent. Campo della Caritd. — Iron Bridge, constructed in 1854. — Campo S. Vitale (bridge-toll 1 soldo). Left. Accademia delle Belle Arti, see p. 245. Palazzi Contarini dai Scrigni , one of the 16th, the other of the 15th cent., erected by Scamozzi (the pic- ture-gallery formerly here has been presented to the Academy, see p. 246). *Pal. Rezzonico , the property of the late Infanta of Spain (d. 1861), a spa- cious structure of the 17th and 18th cent. , erected by Longhena and Massari. Pal. Giustiniani. *Pal. Foscari (PI. 27), in the pointed style of the 15th cent., a handsome structure, now the property of the Baedeker. Italy I. Right. Pal. Giustinian-Lolin, of the 17th cent., the property of the Duchess of Parma. Pal. Grassij of the 18th cent., belongs to Baron Sina. *Pal. Contarini- Fasan , in the poin- ted style of the 14th cent., restored in 1867. 17 258 Route 36. VENICE. Grand, Canal . Left. city, situated at the point where the Canal turns to the E. Pal. Balbi (PI. 25), a Renaissance structure, erected by Aless. Yittoria, a pupil of Sansovino. This portion of the Canal, and especially the two palaces, are a favourite subject with artists. Pal. Grimani , early Renaissance style. Pal. Persico. Pal. Tiepolo. Pal. Pisani (PI. 34), in the pointed style of the 14th cent. The celebrated picture of Darius and Alexander, by Paolo Veronese, formerly here, is now in England. Pal. Barbarigo was once celebrated for its picture-gallery, which in 1850 became the property of the Emp. of Russia. Pal. Bernardo , in the pointed style. *Pal. Tiepolo- Stiirmer , in the Renais- sance style. Right. Pal. Moro-Lin , 17th cent., erected by Mazzoni. Pal. Moeenigo , where Byron resided for a considerable time. Pal. Contarini delle Figure , in the early Renaissance style , 1504—64, with shields and trophies suspended from the walls. Pal. Moeenigo. *Pal. Corner - Spinelli in the early Renaissance style, erected by Lom- bardi, the property of the danseuse Taglioni. *Pal. Grimani (Pl. 39), a Renaissance edifice , chef d'oeuvre of Michele Sanmicheli, dating from the middle of the 16th cent. , now the post- office. *Pal. Farsetti (originally Dandolo ). in the Romanesque style of the 12th cent., with an admixture of Byzantine and Moorish features, is now the seat of the municipal authorities (muni- cipio). *Pal. Loredan , coeval with the last, was once the residence of king Peter Lusignan of Cyprus, husband of Ca- tharine Cornaro (comp. Pal. Corner, p. 259), whose armorial bearings are seen on different parts of the edifice \ it is now the Hotel de la Ville (PI. c.) Pal. Dandolo , once the unpretending residence of the celebrated Doge En- rico Dandolo. *Pal. Bembo , in the pointed style of the 14th cent. Grand Canal. VENICE. 36. Route. 259 Left. Right. Pal. Martin (PI. 31), with facade by Jac. Sansovino, 16th -cent., was the property of the last Doge Lod. Manin, who on the approach of the French in May, 1797, resigned his office; it is now the Banca Nazionale. *P onte di Rialto (i. e. ‘ B.04 4 S.Bartolonunee 3)6 5 S.Bomenico E.3 6 SArcutcesco 06 7 S. Giovanni decollate 3)4 8 S-Maria pomposu C4 9 S. Paolo 3)6 10 S. Pietro E.7 11 S- Kneenou> E.5 Edifixi ed lstitixti ^ubblici 12 -Accademia delle BelleArti E.3 13 OrtoBotanico 034 14 OsservatorioAstronomico EE4 13 Palaxxo Beale E.3.4 16 Cmrnmale/ 3)5 17 Arcio&scouUe, 3)5 18 Saninario Tescovile 06 19 ZJkwersitci E.5 20 Scuffle Mcdiche dell Fnioersita' 0.3 2L Teatro Co/nunale e SociAa, del Casino T.5 22 Teatro AlipranxH T4 TS Archivio <2 friudicature di Mandamerdo 3)45 24 Banco, JSardonale 3).6 23 Bogana E.5 26 JduseoLapidario B4 'IB OspedaLe cwico B .0.3.4 28 mBit. B4 29 Posta E.6 Alber£hi a. Beale E.5 b . S.Jfarco 3)4 C.Mondatora 3). 5 A.Leopardo C4 Bistotatorl e . Stella d'ltdUa. E.5 X. del Conunercio 04 D aroastadt, E d. WajJTi.ei: MODENA. 40. Route. 273 Mustapha after the raising of the siege of the Vienna; the "livre d’heures” (prayer -hook) of Henry II.; a Dante written by Petrarch in 1370; the frescoes of Correggio at S. Gio- vanni etc. The custodian of the picture-gallery also has the key of the dilapidated Teatro Farnese (PI. 30), erected in 4618—28 by Duke Ranuccio Farnese. The (formerly) ducal Printing-office C Tipografia , Pl. 28), founded in 1766 by Bodoni and noted for the admirable editions issued hence, merits a visit. Quitting the museum and crossing the small river Parma by the Ponte Verde , the stranger soon reaches the (formerly) Ducal Garden , at the N. extremity of which is situated the *Palazzo del Giardino (PL 19), erected by Ottavio Farnese, and adorned with numerous frescoes. One of the apartments contains the Rape of Europa, the Triumph of Venus, the Marriage of Peleus and Thetis etc., by Agostino Caracci. The garden adjoins the Stradone, a promenade encircling the town and laid out on the site of the former fortifications. Colomo on the Parma, 2 M. S. of the Po, 9 M. N. of Parma, possesses an extensive, but neglected Ducal Chateau with gardens and hothouses. - About 15 M. E. of this point is situated Guastalla ( Posta ), a small town on the r. bank of the Fo, which in the 16th cent, gave its name to a principality of the Gonzagas , Dukes of Mantua. They became extinct in 1746, and their territory fell to Parma In the market-place is the bronze Statue of Ferdinand I. Gonzaga (d. 1557 at Brussels), by Leone Leoni. — A road leads hence by ( 91/4 M.) Borgoforte and across the Po to (7 M.) Mantua (p. 210). 40. Modena. Hotels. Albergo Reale (PI. a), R. 2, L. l/ 9 , D. 3—4 A 3 A fr . Albergo S. Marco (PI. b)* Mondatora (PI. c)- Leo pardo.' (PI: db Cafe Nazi on ale, Corso di Vittorio Em. — Arena Goldoni an open-air theatre near the Porta Bologna (1 or l/ 2 fr.) _ Zanichelli book- seller, Corso di Via Emilia. Modena, with 32,247 inhab., formerly the capital of the duchy of that name, and now of the province of Emilia, is situated in a fertile plain between the Secchia and the Panaro. It possesses broad streets, spacious arcades, an university, aca- demy of art etc. It was the Mutina of the ancients, in the do- minions of the Gallic Boii; it became a Roman colony B. C. 183, situated on the high road from Rome to Mediolanum (Milan), and therefore a place of importance. Baedeker. Italy I. 18 MODENA. Cathedral. 274 Route 40. After the murder of Ceesar, Brutus was besieged here during 4 months Dec. 44 to April 43 B. C., by Antony (Bellum Mutinense); but the latter was defeated by Octavian with the consuls Pansa and Hirtius, and compel- led to raise the siege. — In the middle ages Modena belonged to the estates of the Countess Mathilde, but eventually obtained its independence and became the scene of violent conflicts between the Guelphs aud Ghibellines. In 1288 Obizzo d'Este gained possession of the supreme power, which his descen- dants continued to enjoy. In 1452 Borso was created Duke of Modena by Emp. Frederick III., and in 1470 obtained the title of Duke of Ferrara from Pope Paul II. The House of Este now soon attained the zenith of its glory. Hercules, 1. (1471 1505) and his son Cardinal Hippolytus d'Este (1479—1520) were the patrons of Ariosto, Alphonso II. (1558—97) that of Tasso (comp. p. 223). On the death of Alphonso II., without issue, the states of Modena and Reggio (but not that of Ferrara) fell to his kinsman Cesare d'Este (1598), husband of Virginia de 1 Medici, daughter of Grand- duke Cosimo I. of Florence. Hercules III. (d. 1803), who by the Peace of Luneville lost Modena in 1801, was the last of the family of Este. Through his daughter Beatrice, who married Archduke Ferdinand, the duchy came into the possession of the younger branch of the House of Austria. Francis V., the last duke, quitted his dominions in consequence of the events of 1859 and went over to the Austrians. The ^Cathedral (PL 1) was erected by order of the Countess Mathilde by Lanfranco in 1099 — 1108, in the Romanesque style. The superstructure is of more recent date. The principal porta] and one at the side are flanked with lions; the front is adorned with a wheel-window and a gallery. The rude sculptures of the facade, representing the history of the first men and the death of King Arthur, are by Nicolaus and Guilelmus (about 1099); on the S. side, to the r. near the choir, is the history of St. Ge- minianus, a relief by Agostino di Firenze , 1422. The interior is low and heavy, but of imposing proportions. The nave and aisles are supported by eight pillars with six in- tervening columns; below are round arches and galleries sup- ported by columns; above, the arches are pointed. Pulpit by Tommaso di Campione, 1322; behind it, to the 1., a very ancient font, adapted for the purpose from the capital of a column. Choir^stalls by Cristoforo Lendenari, 1465; r. in the choir sculp- tures of the 16th cent., representing the history of the Passion. In the 2nd chapel 1., an *altar of terra cotta ; 3rd chapel 1., a Coronation of Mary with saints on a gold ground, by Serafinus de Serafinis, the oldest extant picture of the school of Modena; 4th chapel 1., St. Sebastian with John the Baptist and other saints, by Dosso Dossi. By the 1. entrance to the choir are se- Churches. MODENA. 40. Route. 275 veral fine monuments of the Rangoni family, especially that (designed by Giulio Romano ) of Claudio, Count of Castelvetro (d. 1537), husband of Lucrezia, daughter of the celebrated and erudite Pico of Mirandola (p. 212); also that of Hercules III. of Este (d. at Treviso in 1803). The crypt, supported by 30 slender columns, with four lions at the entrance, contains the tomb of St. Geminianus; over the altar on the r. a Madonna and four saints, by Mazzoni. The ^Campanile, or La Ghirlandina (PI. 2), erected 1224— 1319, 315 ft. in height, is one of the four finest in N. Italy. It leans slightly towards the rear of the cathedral, which is itself somewhat out of the perpendicular. In the cathedral an old Secchia , or pitcher, is preserved, which the Modenese (Geminiani) captured from the Bolognese (Petronii) at the battle of Rapolino, Nov. 15th, 1325. Alessandro Tassoni of Modena (1565 — 16351 d ' SCrib13. .Palazzo , Ircioescooile . F.G34. 43. deda, Mercenexia , oIoggievde?fflercantL&!F». 44. del Podesid. . . F.4. 45. Pubblico o deldooemo . F.4. 46. „ jdrrufbrnasio arttico T5. 47. Univer gitd . ^ 13. 48 .Orto dgrario X27~ Jdotanico 12 . Palazzi . ZO.Pal .Albcrnati D.6. Al. „ dldrooaruli F.3 . PacioccJd, . . . F.6l BentivogUo H3. Seodargua Ttncenzi . F.A6. Ftagi ( ora Palleraicini / III (i. Joiaiiclii T " Grassi dufdotd ■i Maloe^d BonfUoli .. Campeggi - Jitarescalcfa .. Pepoli PieUa, .. Betnnscti/ Tanari . . /. 7 lola. 1.7 F3 &3. G.5. X6. Hi B34. EF4. 65. &3 H». F.2. 1.2 PorticiTr P aviglioitt^ y D armsta!dt, k»] . -yVa grun- B (>9PaJ . Zanibeceari di S. Pool c 70 „ Zampieri 71 CasaBossini^ . ... . Teatri . 72.7'! Comunale H3 73.. . Contavalli G.3' 74. did Carso HA. 75., : Jhicrno, dettadrcna del Sole F.&2. 76 Gruoco di Poll one &H.2. HI. Casino . . . . . JJ5. ii. Torre plsmelli . G.4. 79. G arisend a Gc^., 80. Uffixio della Poshe e . delle JHligen ze . J D.F. 4 ZT~I c "r — T) Ttjpla S31auLolo MAX loria Mas c a j? el 1 a -Porla fS.DoiLato Porla S.THale y.delibri iggiojre IPoita C asli^lioa e? BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 277 are obtained. - To the W. of this road, about IOI /2 M. S.W. of Modena, is situated Sassuolo, a small town on the Secchia, with a ducal Will a and beautiful park. The neighbouring mountain Zibio is remarkable for its naphtha springs and occasional volcanic eruptions. 41. Bologna. Hotels. *Hotel Brun (. Pension Suisse , PI. a), in the Palazzo Mal- vasia, near the post office, R. 3, D. 4, A. 1 fr.; S. Marco (PI. b), on the same side of the same street. — Pellegrino (PI. c) , also in the same street, R. 2 fr. ; near it, Aq ui 1 a Ner a and Pace, also restaurants; *Tre Re, in the Mercato di Mezzo, R., L. and A. 21/2 — 3fr. ;Tre Mori, near Brun. Restaurants etc. Aquila and *Pace, see above; Quattro Pelle- grini and Tre Re in the Mercato di Mezzo. (The “ MortadellaP , or Bo- logna sausage, and the “ Cervellato” , a variety used in winter, are much esteemed by the natives.) -A Cafis, The most frequented, beneath the passages near the Palazzo Pubblico, are somewhat sombre and uninviting. *Neviani in the side-passage of the Piazza, E, of S.Petronio; Pavag- lione, in the Piazza, W. of St. Petronio ; Barchetta, Majani, delle Scienze, del Commercio etc.; del Corso, in the Strada S. Ste- fan 0 ; Brunetti, beneath the portico of the Dogana Vecchia, near the Piazza Vittorio Em. — Beer at the cafes and at the Brewery, S.W. side of the Piazza d’Armi. Railway Station outside the Pbrta Galliera , N.W. of the Montagnola (p. 286). Railway to Ancona see R. 42; to Ferrara (and Ponte Lago- scuro) see R. 35; to Ravenna (by Castel Bolognese) see R. 43; to Flo- rence (by Pistoja) see R. 44; to Piacenza see R. 38. Post Office (PI. 80), in the street S.W. of Hotel Brun, adjoining the church of S. Francesco. — Telegraph Office in the Palazzo Comunale. Fiacres. Per hr. II/ 2 , each succeeding 1/2 hr- 3 /t fr- > per drive 3/ 4 fr. ; to or from the station, with or without luggage, 1 fr. To S. Michele, for the first hr. 31 / 2 , each succeeding 1/2 hr. 3/ 4 f r . Baths. Bagni di S. Lucia, Strada Castiglione, II /2 fr. Theatres. Teatro del 'Comune (PI. 72), the largest, erected by Bibiena in 1756 on the site of the Palazzo Bentivoglio. Contavalli (PI. 73), established in 1814 in the former church of the Carmelites; del Corso (PI. 74); Arena del Sole, Via de’ Malantenti, near the Mon- tagnola, open-air theatre. Marionette Theatre in the evening in the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. — The Giuoco di Pallone , or ball-game, is regarded at Bologna not only as an exercise, but also as an interesting spectacle ; a large saloon (PI. 76) in the Promenade Montagnola (p. 286) is fitted up for the purpose. Shops. The best are beneath the passages near the Palazzo Pubblico. The situation of Bologna is considered healthy, although the summer is frequently very hot and the winter keen. The character of the natives is generally described as spirited and restless. Art and science have at- tained a high degree of development here. The town is sometimes ter- med “ Bologna la grassa ”, owing to its reputation for wealth and good- living. The neigbourhood produces tolerable wines and excellent fruit. 278 Route 41. BOLOGNA. History. The grapes are delicious $ the yellow Uva Paradisa is a variety capable of being kept for a length of time. — The once favourite lap-dogs of Bo- logna are now almost entirely extinct. Soap, maccaroni and liqueurs are among the most esteemed commodities of the place. Bologna, one of the most ancient and important towns in Italy, the capital of the Romagna , or JEmilia as it was anciently termed, is situated in a fertile plain at the base of the Apen- nines, between the Reno , the Aposa and the Savena. Popul. 89,850. It possesses 130 churches, 20 monasteries and a venerable and celebrated university, whence the inscription on old coins “Bononia docet.” The town was founded by the Etruscans and named Felsina, but was afterwards conquered by the Gallic Boii, and by them termed Bononia, In the Punic War it espoused the cause of Hannibal, after which, B. C. 190, it was converted into a Roman colony, at the same time as Cremona and Placentia, by the consul C. Leelius, and as such was a place of a great importance. During the period of the Empire it was even occasio- nally the residence of the monarchs themselves. It subsequently belonged to the Greek Exarchate, then to the Lombards and Franks. Charlemagne constituted Bologna a free town (whence its motto “ Libertas ”), and its commerce and prosperity rapidly increased. In 1119 the University , one of the oldest in the world, was founded, and as a School of Jurisprudence , where Irnerius and other celebrated jurists taught, soon attained an Eu- ropean reputation and was visited by many thousand students annually. In 1262 the number is said to have nearly attained to 10,000; at the pre- sent day there are 400 only. Irnerius introduced the study of the Roman Law, whilst his successors the Glossators devoted their 'energies to its interpretation. The study of medicine and philosophy was introduced at a later period, and a theological faculty established by Pope Innocent VI. The anatomy of the human frame was first taught here in the 14th cent., and here galvanism was discovered by Jos. Galvani in 1789. It is a re- markable lact that the university of Bologna has numbered members of the fair sex among its professors. Thus in the 14th cent. Novella d" Andrea, a lady of great personal attractions, who is said to have been concealed by a curtain during her lectures; at a subsequent period Laura Bassi (mathematics and physical science), Mme. Manzolina (anatomy) and more recently (1794—1817) Clotilda Tambroni (Greek). Bologna acted a very prominent part in the contests of the Guelphs and Ghib el lines, espoused the cause of the former, and allied itself with the Pope against Emp. Frederick II. In a sanguinary encounter at Fos- salta, in May, 1249, King Enzio , son of the Emperor, was captured by the Bolognese and kept in confinement by them for the rest of his life (22 years). He was the founder of the family of the Bentivogli, afterwards so powerful, who after protracted feuds entered into an alliance with the papal throne. During several centuries the town was the scente of the party-struggles of the Bentivogli, Visconti and other families, until in 1512 Pope Julius II. incorporated it with the States of the Church. Palazzo Pubblico. BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 279 In 1515 the interview of Pope Leo X. with Francis I. of France took place at Bologna, and in 1529, 1530 and 1532 those of Clement VII. with Erap. Charles V. Here, too, in 1547 the Council of Trent assembled. In 1796 Bologna was annexed to the “Cisalpine Republic” by Napoleon, in 1815 it again became subject to the States of the Church; in 1831 and 1849 revolutions broke out, and in 1859 the town finally united itself to the kingdom of Italy. In the History of Art Bologna occupies a meritorious, but not in- dependent position , more especially in the provinces of sculpture and architecture. Francesco Francia (1518) was the first painter of note here, then pupils of Raphael, such as Bagnacavallo and Innocenzo da Imdla , and the adherents of the schools of Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio. During the latter half of the 16th cent, the School oftheCaracci, of which eclecticism is the principal characteristic, was established at Bologna. Its founders were Lodovico Caracci and his cousins and pupils Agostino and Annibale. Their most illustrious pupils were Guido Reni , Albano , Domenichino for Domenico Zampieri ), Tiarini and Barbieri. Guercino is also considered to belong to this school. The antiquated aspect of the town, its picturesque mediaeval archi- tecture, lofty arcades, numerous old palaces, and venerable churches sur- mounted by quaint-looking towers, all bear testimony to the peculiar character of the place. The dialect spoken by the lower classes is almost wholly unintelligible to strangers. The *Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (formerly Piazza Maggiore, or del Gigante) in the centre of the town, the mediaeval “forum” of Bologna, is one of the most interesting in Italy. It is adorned with a Fountain by Laureti; the bronze statue of Neptune was executed by Giov. da Bologna (born 1524 at Douay in Flanders) in 1564. It is said to weigh 10 tons and to have cost 70,000 ducats. In this Piazza is situated the *Palazzo Pubblico, or del Go- verno (PL 45), commenced in 1290, adorned with a Madonna on the facade by Niccolo dell ' Area and a bronze statue of Pope Gregory XIII. (Buoncompagni of Bologna) by Menganti, trans- formed in 1796 into a statue of St. Petronius. The grand staircase in the interior was designed by Bramante; the chapel with the “Madonna del terremoto” is of 1505. The galleries and halls are decorated with frescoes: statue of Hercules in the hall of that name, by Alfonso Lombardi; in the Sala Farnese a statue of Paul III. etc. Opposite to the latter is the *Palazzo del Podesta (PI. 44), of 1201, with facade of 1485, where K ing Enzio (p. 278) was kept a prisoner by the Bolognese, but derived great solace from his attachment to the beautiful Lucia Vendagoli, from whom the 280 Route 41. BOLOGNA. Churches. Bentivoglio family (p. 278) is descended. The great hall is ter- med after him Sala del Re Enzio. The conclave for the election of Pope John XXIII. was held here in 1410. The palace con- tains the Civic Archives , with a number of ancient documents. The adjoining Portico de’ Banchi, erected by Vignola , is used for shops etc. Opposite to it is *S. Petronio (PI. 1), the largest church in the town, com- menced in the Tuscan-Gothic style in 1390 from a design by Antonio Vincenzi, but never completed. It possesses an imposing transept and an octagonal dome rising between four towers. The construction was abandoned in 1659, when the nave and aisles as far as the transept only were completed, being now termi- nated by an apse of the breadth of the nave. Length 360 ft., breadth with the chapels 147 ft. (originally projected length 750 ft..). The nave is of vast and noble dimensions, the aisles are flanked with series of chapels. The church is supported by 12 pillars with pointed vaulting, beneath which are small cir- cular windows. The sculptures of the facade, representing saints, date from 1393; those of the principal entrance are by Jacopo della Quercia , 1425 ; side-doors, 1525. The interior contains numerous sculptures and paintings, most of them very valuable. The chapels are especially interesting. The 4th on the 1., where divine service was celebrated for the first time in 1392, contains an altar decorated with old frescoes. Coronation of Mary, beneath it Hell and Paradise, recalling Dante’s poem. This and the opposite chapel (4th on the r.) contain stained glass by Jacob of Ulm. The Cappella Bacciochi (7th on the 1.) contains the monument of Princess Elisa Bacciochi (d. 1820), Grand Duchess of Tuscany and sister of Napoleon, and of her husband Felix ; opposite to it, that of two of their children, both admirable groups in marble by the two Franzoni. Over the altar a Madonna by Lorenzo Costa. The Cappella S. Antonio (8th on the r.) contains a statue of the Saint, an early work of Sansovino , and the miracles performed by him, in grisaille by Girolamo da Treviso. In the 1st chapel on the r. the Madonna della Pace, by Hans Ferrabech t and an altar-piece (God the Father with angels) by Giacomo Francia \ 2nd chapel r., curious old frescoes of 1417. — On the pavement of the church is traced the celebrated meridian line of Cassini y the Astronomer (1652). Beneath the canopy of the choir, on Febr. 24th, 130, the Emp. Charles V. was crowned by Pope Clement VII., being the last occasion on which a German Emperor received his crown in Italy. — The Reverenda Fabbrica , or architects’ hall, and the Sacristy also contain a number of works of art, e. g. 40 designs for the unfinished facade by Palladio , Giulio Romano , Vignola and others. — Over the principal entrance of the church once stood during three years a bronze statue by Michael Angelo of Pope Julius II. with the keys and a sword in his left hand. In 1511 Churches. BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 281 it was destroyed by tbe populace and sold as old metal to the Duke of Ferrara, who employed it in casting a piece of ordnance (“Giuliano”). *S. Pietro, the Cathedral (PI. 2), commenced in 1605, con- sists of a spacious nave only, with rounded vaulting. In the chapter-room St. Peter with the Madonna; above the choir an Annunciation, the last work of Lod. Caracci. *8. Domenico, formerly S. Bartolommeo (PI. 10), a structure in the round-arch style with nave and aisles, contains the tomb of St. Dominicus, who was horn in Castille in 1170, and spent the latter part of his life and died at Bologna in 1221. His monument (the Area, a sarcophagus in white marble, is placed over the altar) is in the *Cappella S. Domenico (on the r.), surmounted by a dome, and adorned with reliefs from the life of the saint by pupils of Nicola Pisano ; reliefs of the front pro- bably by the master himself, those of the base by Fr. Lombardi. The kneeling angel on the 1. and St. Petronius are by Michael Angelo. Additions were made to the work in 1469 and 1532. The transfiguration of saints in the dome, by Guido Reni. The Cappella del Rosario (1., on the opposite side) contains the monuments of Guido Reni (d. 1642), the talented paintress Elisabeth Sirani (died of poison at the age of 25, in 1665), of King Enzio (p. 278) (1. by the choir), and of Taddeo Pepoli (d. 1337). Opposite that of Enzio is a portrait of St. Thomas Aqui- nas (d. 1274). In the vestibule of the side-door is the monu- ment of the jurist Alessandro Tartagni, by Francesco da Simone (1477). — In the Piazza di S. Domenico are two curious old monuments of the 13th cent. *S. Giacomo Maggiore (PI. 13.), founded in 1267, consists of a nave only, with rounded vaulting of 1497. The chapels are adorned with several excellent pictures. Thus the “Vergine della cintura”, attributed to Fr. Francia (1st altar r. of the entrance), Nuptials of St. Catharine by lnnocenzo da Imola (8th chapel r.), St. Roch by L. Carracci (10th chapel), frescoes by Tibaldi (12th chapel) ; the 3rd chapel behind the high altar contains an old picture (1319?) by Simone de J Crocefissi and Jac. Pauli. In the Cappella de’ Bentivogli, the 16th at the back of the choir, a *Madonna, the finest work of Fr. Francia , and fres- coes by his pupil Lorenzo Costa. In front of the chapel is the monument of Antonio Bentivoglio (p. 278) by Giacomo della Quercia. 282 Route 41. BOLOGNA. Churches. *S. Cecilia (PI. 16), at the hack of S. Giacomo, an oratory erected in 1481 by Giovanni Bentivoglio and adorned with su- perb paintings, belongs to the neighbouring Augustine monastery. The frescoes by Fr. Francia and his pupils represent the legend of St. Valerian and St. Cecilia (Nos. 1. and 10. by Fr. Francia , 2. and 9. by Costa , 3. and 8. by Giacomo Francia , 4. by Chio- darolo, 5., 6. and 7. by Aspertini. *S. Stefano (PI. 36), a pile consisting of seven different churches, containing ancient columns and mural paintings, bears an inscription on the exterior, recording that it was founded on the site of a temple of Isis, probably in the 15th cent. The churches are not all on the same level, and have been diffe- rently arranged and fitted up according to the period of their construction. The round church is the oldest and most impor- tant at Bologna. An open court termed the Atrio di Pilato forms the centre of the pile; it contains a Coronation of Mary by Bagnacavallo , and a St. Jerome by Fr. Francia. The neigh- bouring monastery, now suppressed, possesses fine cloisters. *S. Vitale ed Agricola (PI. 38) was consecrated by St. Petro- nius in 428. The large chapel on the 1. contains an altar-piece by Fr. Francia ; the frescoes on the r. side are by Giac. Francia , those on the 1. by Bagnacavallo. S. Bartolommeo di Porta Ravegnana (PI. 3), erected in 1653, a gaudily painted church surmounted by a dome, contains pictures by Lod. Caracci , Albani, Guido Reni , Tiarini etc. — Leaning towers near the church, see p. 284. *S. Giovanni in Monte (PI. 15), situated on an eminence, one of the oldest churches in Bologna, founded by St. Petronius in 433, was re-erected in the Gothic style in 1221, restored 1824. It is adorned with paintings by Lor. Costa (Coronation of Mary in the choir) and Guercino (3rd chapel r.). The 7th chapel on the 1. contained Raphael’s St. Cecilia (now in the museum, p. 285) till 1796; it is now replaced by a copy. The 6th chapel on the 1. contains an admirable bronze statue of Christ over the altar. S. Martino Maggiore (PI. 26), a church of the Carmelites in the Gothic style, dates from 1313. The 1st chapel on the 1. contains an Enthroned Madonna with angels, by Fr. Francia; over the 5th altar on the 1. an Assumption by Lorenzo Costa; 5th altar r., Madonna and two saints, by Amico Aspertini. Palaces. BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 283 Of the Palaces the following are the most interesting: Palazzo Arcivescovile (PL 42), near the cathedral, was erected by Tibaldi in 1577. *Pal. Bacciochi, formerly Ranuzzi (PI. 52), possesses a facade by Andrea Palladio and a colonnade by Bibiena. This was the resi- dence of Napoleon’s sister Elise Bacciochi ; it still contains a number of portraits and statues of members of the Buonaparte family. Pal. Bentivoglio (PL 53), erected in the 16th cent, on the site of the ancient mansion of this powerful family, which was destroyed under Pope Julius II., was frequently a residence of princes. Pal. Bevilacqua Vincenzi (PL 54), attributed to Bramantino , possesses a magnificent court. The Council of Trent (p. 78) Jield its sessions for a short period here in 1547. Pal. Fava (PL 57) is decorated with beautiful *frescoes by the Caracci from the history of Jason and .Eneas. *Pal. Pepoli (Pl. 64), date 1344, is the castellated seat of this once influential family. Pal. Tanari (Pl. 67) and Pal. Zambeccari di S. Paolo (PL 69) possess paintings by Domenichino , Innocenzo da Imola , the Caracci , Carlo Dolce, Guercino etc. *Pal. Zampieri (Pl. 70), with the inscription “Galleria Zampieri”, is always accessible (V 2 fr.). It is adorned with ad- mirable frescoes from the history of Hercules by the Caracci and Guercino. The old and celebrated picture gallery it once con- tained has been sold. The collection made by the present proprietor, comprising several good works of the Bolognese school, is also for sale. The adjoining House of Rossini \ Pl. 71), in the Via Maggiore, was erected by the great composer in 1825, and furnished with inscriptions from Cicero and Virgil. The houses of Guercino and Guido Reni , the latter with frescoes by the master himself, are also pointed out. The ^University (established since 1803 in the former Palazzo Cellesi , PL 47, Via S. Donato, with a superb court, erected by Triachini, occupied since 1714 by the library and collections), after that of Salerno the oldest in Italy, founded 1119, now possesses a staff of 43 professors (400 stud.) and a considerable number of scientific institutions (clinical hospital, 2S4 Route 41. BOLOGNA. Town Library. anatomical theatre, natural history collections, botanical garden and observatory). The Tower commands a good survey of the town. The Museum of Antiquities here is not accessible and will probably be transferred to the Arciginnasio (see below). The extensive Library of 100,000 vols.is accessible daily, except Sundays, 9 — 3 o’clock. Among the MSS. is the oldest of Lac- tantius; also letters from Voltaire to Fred, the Great, minia- tures etc. The celebrated linguist Giuseppe Mezzofanti (born at Bologna 1776, cardinal under Pope Gregory XVI. in 1838, died at Naples 1849), professor of the Oriental languages at the university, was once librarian here. At the age of 36 he is said to have spoken 18 languages fluently, and at the period of his death no fewer than 42. — The Archives comprise a number of ancient documents on papyrus, the Codex Diplomaticus Bono- niensis in 44 vols. etc. The Town Library ( Arciginnasio Antico, PI. 46), entrance- beneath the Portici del Pasiglione, E. of S. Petronio, accessible daily, except Sundays. 10 — 4 o’clock, contains some valuable MSS. The Museum of Antiquities , recently established here, contains a small Egyptian collection and several beautiful vases. Archives on a grand scale, like those of Bonaini in Florence, are now being arranged here. The building, which in 1562 was fitted up as the seat of the university, contains in the Loggie over the entrance a number of interesting monuments to celebrated professors (Muratori, Peggi, Malpighi, Mariani etc.). The Collegio di Spagna (PI. 40), in the Strada Saragozza, founded in 1364 by Cardinal Albornoz, contains frescoes (damaged) by the Caracci and Bagnacavallo. The Coronation of Emp. Charles V. at S. Petronio (p. 280) by the latter is very interes- ting on account of the portraits of the principal characters, who were contemporaries of the artist. The Accademia delle Belle Arti (PI. 39), established in the former College of the Jesuits (near the university) contains collections of casts etc. (on the ground - floor) and weapons ( Oploteca ), the latter comprising arms captured from the Turks,, Venetians etc. ; also a superb * Picture Gallery , or Pinacoteca , consisting chiefly of works of the Bolognese School (accessible daily, 9 — 3 o’clock). Visitors ring. Catalogue (1 */ 2 fr.) unnecessary „ fees prohibited. Academy. BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 285 1st Room (opposite the entrance): 82. Fr. Francia , Scene from the life of Christ; also pictures by Guercino , the two Sirani, the Caracci , Massari and Lavinia Fontana. — 2nd R.: r. 37. Ann. Caracci , Madonna with saints; 2. Albano , Baptism of Christ; *42. Zed. Caracci , Madonna with SS. Dominicus, Francis, Clara and Mary Magdalene, being portraits 'Of members of the Bargellini family, at whose cost the picture was painted; *206. Domenichino, Martyrdom of St. Agnes ; *36. Ann. Caracci , Madonna with SS. Lewis, Alexis, John the Baptist, Francis, Clara and Catharine; 35. Ag. Caracci , Assumption; 47. Lod. Caracci, Conversion of Paul; 183. Tia- rini , Nuptials of St. Catharine ; 34. Ag. Caracci , Communion of St. Jerome ; 46. Lod. Caracci , Preaching of John the Baptist. — 3rd R. : r. 198 Giorgio Tasari, Banquet of Gregory the Great, who here bears the features of Clement VII. ; 80. Fr. Francia , Madonna with SS. Augustine, Sebastian and John the Baptist; 210. Youthful John, after Raphael; 26. Bugiardino , Nuptials of St. Catharine; **152. Raphael"' s St. Cecilia listening to the heavenly music in an ecstatic trance, surrounded by SS. Paul, John, Augustine and Mary Magdalene. This exquisite picture (which should be viewed from some distance), the gem of the collection, was painted for the chapel of the Bentivogli in S. Giovanni in Monte (p. 282). It was at Paris, 1796—1815. A duplicate figure of the saint alone was purchased some years ago by the king of Bavaria. 133. Bagnacavallo , Holy Family; 81. Fr. Francia , Madonna and saints adoring the Child; *78. Fr. Francia , Madonna with SS. Augustine, Sebastian, John the Baptist etc., painted in 1490; 107. Perugino , Madonna in glory; 79. Fr. Francia, Madonna with John the Baptist and St. Augustine; 90. lnnocenzo da lmola , Holy Family; 89. Inn. da lmola, The Archangel Michael conquering the dragon, with 8S. Peter and Augustine. — 4th R.: *137. Guido Reni, Samson victorious over the Philistines ; 12. Guercino , William of Aquitaine receiving the robe of the Order of St. Felix; *136. Guido Reni , Crucifixion (“Cristo dei Cappu- cini”, the high altar of whose church it formerly adorned), one of his finest works; 208. Domenichino , Martyrdom of St. Peter; *134. Guido Reni , Madonna della Pieta, below are St. Petronius, Carlo Borromeo, Dominicus, Francis and Proculus ; the picture was painted in 1616 for the Town Council, who rewarded the painter with a valuable gold chain and medal, in addition to his remuneration; *135. Guido Reni , Slaughter of the Inno- cents; 138. G. Reni , Madonna del Rosario, painted on silk in 1630 (as a procession-flag). — In the Corridor: 275. Raph. Mengs, Portrait of Cle- ment XIII. — 5th R. : Altar-pieces of the 14th and 15th cent, by Vitale , Simone da Bologna, Jacopo Avahzi , Antonio and Bartolommeo Vivarini of Murano (about 1450); 1. *Oijna da Conegliano , Madonna; in the centre, Mccold Alunno da Foligno, Madonna adoring the Child, presented by Pope Pius IX. in 1856; 102. Wings of an altar-piece (now in the Brera at Milan, p. 151) by Giotto , from the church degli Angioli, with SS. Peter, Paul and the angels Michael and Gabriel. — 6th R. : Nothing worthy of note. A number of pictures from suppressed monasteries, by Francia and others, are still in disorder. The studio of Prof. Baruzzi, one Of Canova’s most eminent pupils, in the Palazzo Bargellini, Strada Maggiore, merits a visit; his statues of Yenus are particularly fine. 286 Route 41. BOLOGNA. Montagnola. The *Palazzo della Mercanzia, or Loggia de’Mercanti (Chamber of Commerce, PI. 43), near the principal market, is a beautiful Gothic structure, erected, it is said, in 1294, but probably of less remote date. In 1439 it was restored by the Bentivogli, who were then in power. It contains the armorial bearings of all the jurists who taught law here from 1441 to 1800. — To the N., in the vicinity, in the Piazza near the church of S. Bar- tolommeo (p. 282), are the Leaning Towers of Asinelli and Garisenda, the most singular structures in Bologna. The Torre Asinelli (PI. 78), erected in 1109 by Gherardo degli Asinelli, is 256 ft. in height and 3 ft. 4 in out of the perpendicular. A rough staircase of 447 steps leads to the summit, which com- mands a fine view towards Verona, the Monti Euganei (p. 221) and the Alps. The Torre Garisenda (PI. 79), erected in 1110 by Filippo and Ottone Garisendi, is 130 ft. high only, but is 8 ft. out of the perpendicular towards the S., and 3 ft. towards the E- Since the last measurement (1772), it is said to have settled still farther. Dante (Inferno 31. 136) compares the giant Antaeus, who bends towards him, to this tower, “when a cloud passes over it”. Within the wall, on the N. side of the town, near the Porta Galliera leading to the station, rises La Montagnola, a slight eminence converted daring the first French occupation into a pro- menade, and still a favourite popular resort. Fine view of the town, with the villas on the spurs of the Apennines in the fore- ground. Here is situated the Giuoco di Pallone (PI. 76, p. 277). The Austrians were attacked here by the Bolognese in 1848 and compelled to evacuate the town. On the S. is the Piazza df Armi; the house on the S.W. side, with a balcony, was partially destroyed by the Austrian cannonade. The Strada Saragozza leads to the gate of that name at the S.W. extremity of the town. Outside this gate, 3 / 4 M. S. of the town, rises *S. Michele in Bosco, once an Olivetan monastery (suppressed 1797), now a royal chateau. The church contains remnants of frescoes by Bagnacavallo and others. The court of the buildings is adorned with finely executed ^frescoes, by the Caracci and their pupils, from the history of St. Benedict and St. Cecilia, but unfortunately much injured. On the Monte della Guardia, another eminence outside the gate (2V 2 M.), lies the sumptuous pilgrimage-church of the Certosa. BOLOGNA. 41. Route. 287 *Madonna di S. Luca, erected by Dotti in 1731, so called from an ancient picture of the Virgin pretended to have been painted by St. Luke, brought from Constantinople in 1160. A passage leads to a colonnade of 635 arches (constructed 1676 1739), about 1 M. in length, extending along the height. Remarkably fine view from the summit, extending from the Apennines to the Adriatic. The finest points are beneath the portal of the church and from the new intrenchments. Outside the Porta S. Isaia, at the W. extremity of the town is situated the *Certosa (formerly a Carthusian monastery), erected in 1335 and consecrated in 1801 as a Campo Santo. The route to it is the principal road from the gate; after y 3 M. a cross indicates the way to the cemetery, which is reached about /4 M. farther (custodian 1 / 2 fr.). This burial-ground is one of the most interesting in Italy. The church contains a few pain- tings by Sirani and others; in the cloisters a number of old tombstones; in the arcades modern monuments, most of them in marble. In the centre are the ordinary graves. Among the former many illustrious names may be read, amongst them the erudite Gaspar Garatoni (d. 1817), the talented Clotilda Tambroni (d. 1817) (p. 278). Noble families of the town also possess vaults here. Thus the monument of Letizia Murat Pepoli (d. 1859), with a statue of her father King Murat (“propugna- tore dell’ italica indipendenza”), executed by Vine. Vela in 1865. A rotunda here contains the busts of celebrated professors, Mezzofanti. Galvani. Costa , Schiassi, Mattei (teacher of Rossini) etc. 42. From Bologna to Ancona. Railway in 5 hrs.; fares 22 fr. 45, 18 fr. , 13 fr. 50 c. - Beautiful views of the sea between Rimini and Cattolica, then beyond Pesaro. A seat to the left should therefore be selected. From the railway-station on the N. side of the city, outside the Porta Galliera, the line runs parallel with the high-road in the direction of the ancient Via .Emilia, and as far as Forli traverses fertile plains in nearly a straight direction ; in the dis- tance to the r. the spurs of the Apennines. Stat. Mirandola and Quaderna. Stat. Castel S. Pietro, on the Silaro, with a castle erected by the Bolognese in the 13th cent. Imcla (S. Marco), on the Santerno, is an ancient town with 10,916 inhab. and seat of a bishop (since 422), the Roman Fo- 288 Route 42. FORLI. From Bologna rum Cornelii, incorporated with the States of the Church in 1509, birthplace of St. Petrus Chrysologus, archbishop of Ravenna (d. 449) ; his tomb is in the cathedral of S. Cassiano, where the remains of the saint of that name also repose. ' The line crosses the Santerno and soon reaches stat. Castel Bolognese , an ancient stronghold of the Bolognese, constructed in 1380. Branch-line hence to Ravenna. Then across the river Senio, ancient Sinnus , to Faenza (Corona; Posta), a town with 17,486 inhab., on the Lamone (ancient Anemo) , the Faventia of the Boii, celebrated for its pottery (whence the term “faience”) and containing consi- derable silk and weaving manufactories. Among the churches the cathedral of 8. Costanzo deserves mention; it contains a *Holy Family by Innocenzo da Imola and bas-reliefs by Benedetto da Majano. The *Capuchin Monastery , without the town, possesses an admirable picture by Guido Rent , a *Madonna and St. John. In 8. Maglorio a *Madonna, attributed to Giorgione , more pro- bably by Girolamo da Treviso; by the latter a fine fresco (1533), Madonna with saints, in the Commenda (in the Borgo), where there is also a Collection of Pictures by native masters, such as Bertucci etc. The *Palazzo Comunale was in the 15th cent, the scene of the murder of Galeotto Manfredi by his jealous wife Francesca Bentivoglio; the grated window in the centre, where the deed was perpetrated, is still shown. In 1782 the Canale Zanelli was constructed, from Faenza to the Po di Primaro near S. Alberto , in order to connect the town with the Adriatic. A good road leads from Faenza to Ravenna (diligence 3 times weekly), and another hy Marradi and Borgo S. Lorenzo to Florence (corriere daily", diligence 3 times weekly in 12 hrs. ; office, Corso 68). The line intersects the plain in a straight direction, the La- mone is crossed, then the Montone , which falls into the Adriatic not far from Ravenna. Forli (Posta) the ancient Forum Livii, a well-built town with 17,723 inhab., seat of the cardinal-legate till 1848. The * Cathedral of S. Croce contains a chapel of the Madonna del Fuoco; in the dome *frescoes by Carlo Cignani: Assumption of the Virgin. A Ciborium from a design by Michael Angelo, a casket of relics of the 14th cent., and the sculptures of the prin- cipal door of the 15th cent, are worthy of notice. to Ancona. CESENA. 42. Route. 289 8. Girolamo contains a *Madonna with angels by Guido Beni , In the 1st chapel to the r. frescoes by Melozzo and Palmezzano. — 8. Mercuriale possesses a *painting by lnnocenzo da Imola , sculptures of 1536, and several good pictures by Marco Palmez- zano , an artist of this town. On a house adjoining the druggist Morandi , are remains of fine frescoes by Melozzo da Forli {about 1470). The Pinacoteca (in the Ginnasio Comunale, Piazza di S. Pellegrino) contains good pictures by Marco Palmezzano , Cignani, Fra Angelico , Lorenzo di Credi etc. The *Piazza with the Palazzo Comunale and other edifices deserves a visit. The Citadel, constructed in 1361, now serves as a prison. A road leads from Forli on the 1. bank of the Ronco to Ravenna (about 15 M .) •, another through the Apennines by Rocca S. Casciano and S. Benedetto to Florence , diligence 3 times weekly, corriere daily at noon. The line to Rimini crosses the Ronco and passes stat. For- limpopoli, the ancient Forum Popilii ; to the r. on the hill, Berti- noro with its productive vineyards; then by Polenta and across the Savio (Sapis) to the town of Cesena (*Posta or Leone Bianco), with 8000 inhab., char- mingly situated. In the Piazza is the handsome * Palazzo Pub- blico with a statue of Pius VI., who was born at Cesena in 1717. In the interior a *Madonna with saints, by Francesco Francia. The Capuchin Church possesses a fine picture by Guercino. The ^Library, founded in 1452 by Domenico Malatesta Novello, con- tains 4000 MSS. On an eminence, V 2 M. distant, stands the handsome church of *S. Maria del Monte , a work of Bramante, and a Benedic- tine monastery. Productive sulphur -mines in the vicinity, to- wards the S. The line crosses the stream Pisciatello, the upper part of which, termed TJrgone, is identical with the river Rubicon of the ancients, the boundary between Italia proper and the Province of Gallia Cisalpina and memorable for its passage by Csesar at the commencement of the civil war between him and Pompey, B. C. 49. The most recent investigations tend to show that the Rubicon has entirely altered its ancient course. It appears origi- nally to have fallen into the Eiumicino, farther S., whilst at the present day its upper portion (Urgone) unites with the Pisciatello. On the road between Cesena and Savignano stands a column Baedeker. Italy I. 19 290 Route 42. RIMINI. From Bologna "bearing a decree of the Roman senate, threatening to punish those who should without authority trespass beyond the Rubicon. Montesquieu regarded this as genuine, hut it is unquestionably a mere modern fraud. The line then crosses the TJso and the Marecchia. Rimini (*Tre Re, Aquila d’Oro , both in the Corso; Trattoria Europa , in the Piazza Cavour), the ancient Ariminum , a town of the Umbri and a Roman colony, belonged during the exarchate to the Pentapolis Maritima. It is situated on the estuary of the Marecchia and Ausa, possesses 16,850 inhab., fisheries and silk- manufactories, and has recently come into notice as a sea-ba- thing place (to the sea a pleasant walk of 20 min.). N. of Rimini, the five-arched * Bridge of Augustus, one of the finest existing ancient works of this description , crosses the Marecchia, the ancient Ariminus. Here the Via ^Emilia united with the Via Flaminia, which led to Rome. The *Porta Romana, at the opposite extremity of the town, -of travertine and adorned with sculptures, erected, as the inscrip- tion records, to commemorate the completion of the road by the Emp. Augustus, deserves particular attention. Near the Cappuccini are the supposed remains of an amphitheatre. From the stone Basement in the Piazza Giulio Cesare, Caesar is said to have ha- rangued the army after the passage of the Rubicon. The old harbour of Rimini at the mouth of the Marecchia, now filled with sand, is employed only by numerous fishing-boats. The following churches are interesting: S. Francesco (Duomo, Tempio dei Malatesta), of the 14th cent., in the Ital. Gothic style, restored in 1420 in accordance with the designs of Leo Battista Alberti. The chapels contain several fine sculptures and frescoes. S. Giuliano, with altar-piece by Paolo Veronese and an ancient picture by Lattanzio della Marca. — S. Girolamo, with ^picture of the saint by Guercino. — The Palazzo del Comune possesses an altar-piece by Domenico del Ghirlandajo and a Piet& by Gio- vanni Bellini (about 1470). The Palazzo Diottoleri also contains several fine pictures. The Library in the Via Gambalunga, which diverges from the Piazza Cavour to the E., founded in 1617 by the jurist Gambalunga, contains 23,100 vols. and MSS. The dilapidated Castle of the Malatesta , now the citadel, still bears to Ancona. PESARO. 42. Route. 291 traces of the roses and elephants of the family escutcheon. From the history of the Malatestas Dante derived his “Francesca da Rimini ”, generally regarded as the most touching episode of the Divina Commedia and which Byron translated with such a masterly hand. In the Gastello di S. Leo , 18 M. to the W. of Rimini, the notorious Cagliostro (Giuseppe Balsamo) died in confinement in 1794. From S. Leo a bridle-path, much frequented by fishermen, leads^ to Florence by Camal- doli and Vallombrosa , traversing picturesque ravines. A somewhat shorter excursion may be made to the ancient republic of San Marino, the smallest in the world, said to have been founded in an inaccessible wilderness by St. Marinus at the time of the persecutions of the Christians under Diocletian. This diminutive state braved all the storms of mediaeval warfare and even the ambition of Napoleon. It re- tained its ancient constitution till 1847, when its senate was converted into a chamber of deputies. The precipitous rock in a bleak district, on which the town (1000 inhab.) is situated, is reached by one road only from Rimini. The village of Borg o at the baSe is the residence of the wealthier inha- bitants. A cavern, through which a perpetual current of cold air passes, is an object of curiosity. The celebrated epigraphist and numismatist Bartolommeo Borghesi , born at Savignano in 1781, was from 1821 until his death on April 16th, 1860, a resident at S. Marino, where he arranged and described his admirable collections and received visits from foreign savants. Beyond Rimini the line skirts the coast, passes S. Martino and S. Lorenzo , crosses the streams Marano and Conca (the Crustumium rap ax of Lucan) and reaches stat. La Cattolica. Then across the Tavollo and the Foglia (ancient Isaurus or Fisaurus ) to Pesaro (Leone d'Oro ; Italia), the ancient Pisaurum, once capital of the united “delegations” of Urbino and Pesaro, and formerly appertaining to the Pentapolis Maritima (10,740 inhab.). The palace of the dukes of Urbino, with a magnificent hall, is now the seat of the authorities. In front of it are marble statues of Rossini and Perticari. The Foglia is crossed by a bridge of Roman origin. — Among the churches may be mentioned: S. Francesco , with a *Coronation of the Virgin by Giovanni Bellini; 8. Cassiano, with a St. Barbara by Simone da Pesaro; S. Giovanni de J Riformati , with a badly restored altar-piece by Guercino ; 8. Agostino, with ancient portal. The Biblioteca Olivieri contains 13,000 vols. and 600 MSS. Adjacent to it is a small Museum of Antiquities. The Ospizio degli Incurabili possesses what remains of its once celebrated collection of Urbino Majolica ; in the Palazzo Astico are the Marmora Pisaurensia, described by Giordani in 1738. The treasures of art of which Pesaro formerly boasted have long since been transferred to Rome 19 * 292 Route 42. URBINO. From Bologna and Paris. Pesaro was the birthplace of Pope Clement XI. (Albani) in 1649, and of the celebrated composer Rossini in 1789. Near Pesaro is Monte 8. Bartolo , where the Roman tragic dramatist L. Attius is said to be interred; beyond it Vlm- periale , once a favourite villa of the dukes, abandoned since the 18th cent. The handsome staircases, terraces and corridors testify to its ancient splendour. In the vicinity is the church of the Girolamitani, with a damaged picture of S. Jerome by Giovanni Santi. One of the finest prospects in the environs is obtained from an eminence behind the monastery. On the r., on the road to Rimini, is situated the Villa Vittoria, once the residence of Queen Caroline of England when Princess of Wales. The garden contains the monuments erected by her to the memory of her daughter Charlotte and her brother the Duke of Brunswick, who fell at Waterloo. An excursion to Urbino may most easily be accomplished from Pesaro. Diligence daily at 7 a. m. from Urbino to Pesaro in 5—6 hrs., returning on the arrival of the afternoon trains (fare 2— 3 fr.). The road leads through the valley of the Foglia , which falls into the sea at Pesaro, to Montecchio , and then gradually ascends by the brook which falls into the Foglia. Urbino {Italia, tolerable), the ancient Urbinum Metaurense , deriving its name from the neighbouring Metaurus, lies on an abrupt cliff, surrounded by barren mountains. The town (8000 inh.) boasts of a university with as many profes- sors as students. Its monuments and historical associations are interesting. In the 13th cent, the town came into the possession of the Montefeltro family, and under Federigo Montefeltro and his son Guidobaldo in the 15th cent, attained to such prosperity as entirely to eclipse the neighbouring courts of the Malatestas at Rimini and the Sforzas at Pesaro. Federigo Montefeltro , who distinguished himself as a condottiere in the feuds of the 15th cent., in 1474 married his daughter to Giovanni della Rover e, a nephew of Sixtus IV., and was in consequence created duke of Urbino. In this capacity he acquired a well-merited reputation as a patron of science and art, and Urbino was styled the “Italian Athens”. His example was followed by his son Guidobaldo zealously seconded by his duchess, the beautiful and accomplished Elisabetta Gonzaga. Guidobaldo was in 1497 expelled by Caesar Borgia , but after the death of Alexander VI. returned in triumph to Urbino, where he was visited during three festive days by his relative Julius II., who now became pope (1503—13), and was on his route to Bologna. On this occasion the latter became acquainted with the youth- ful Raphael Santi , who, born March 28th, 1483, at Urbino, at first studied under the guidance of his father, the master Giovanni Santi , subsequently % under the celebrated Pietro Vanned ( Perugino ) at Perugia, and in 1504 went to Florence to perfect himself by the study of the admirable works of Leonardo da Vinci and Michael Angelo Buonarotti. On the death of Duke Guidobaldo in 1508, Julius II, summoned Raphael to Rome to decorate the Stanza della Segnatura with frescoes. Under Julius and his successor to Ancona. URBINO. 42. Route. 293 Leo X. Raphael acquired the reputation of the-greatest painter of the day, and died April 6th, 1520. For the development of his genius, however, he was in a great measure indebted to the munificent patronage of the court of Urbino. Here Count Balthasar Castiglione wrote his “Cortegiano”, the ideal of a courtier; here, also, the erudite Polydorus Vergilius resided, and the artist Federigo Baroccio , who distinguished himself at Rome as a successful imitator of Raphael, was a native of Urbino (b. 1528), where he died in 1612. In 1626 the duchy was incorporated with the States of the Church, when Urban VIII. persuaded the last and childless duke Francesco Maria II. to abdicate. The town still contains much that recals its pristine splendour. The * Ducal Palace, erected by Federigo Montefeltro, was at that period regarded as 'the finest structure of the description in Italy, and is still an un- rivalled specimen of the early Renaissance, remarkable for its symme: trical proportions and the rich decoration of its halls, windows, buttresses, chimney-pieces (by Francesco di Giorgio and Ambrogio Baroccio, ancestor of the painter of that name) etc. On the stair- the statue of Duke Frederick. The library of the palace and other collections were transferred to Rome. The corridors contain a considerable collection of well-arranged inscriptions from Rome and the Umbrian municipia, established by the epigraphist Fabretti. The * Cathedral possesses good pictures by Baroccio , of St. Sebastian and the Eucharist, by Timoteo della Vite , of St. Martin and Thomas a Becket, and a portrait of the duke. S. Francesco contains pictures, Of Giovanni Santi , a Madonna with St. John the Baptist, St. Sebastian, St. Jerome and St. Francis, with three kneeling figures of the donors, members of the Buffi family (not of the family of Raphael, as was formerly believed) ; St. Rochus and Tobias by Timoteo della Vite ; also monuments of the princes of Urbino. S. Francesco di Paola , with two pictures of Titian , the Resurrection and Eucharist. : — S. Giuseppe,- with a *Madonna, by Timoteo della Vite, and (in the oratorio) a copy of Raphael’s Sposaiizio, by Andrea TJrbani. — The Oratorio of the Confraternitd di S. Giovanni is covered with paintings by Lorenzo da S. Severino and his brother, of the school of Giotto, History of the Virgin and John the Baptist. — The college near S. Agata contains an interesting picture by Justus van Ghent , a pupil of Van Eyck, of 1774. — In the church of *S. Bernardino , m. from the town, are the tombs of the dukes Federigo and Guidobaldo; in the sacristy 13 painted panels, by Antonio di Ferrieri (1435), and the dead Christ, by Giovanni Santi. Raphael's House is indicated by an inscription. On one of the walls is a Madonna with sleeping Child, long regarded as an early production of Raphael, but ascertained to have been executed by his father Giovanni Santi. It is contemplated to erect in his native town a monument worthy of the great master, for which purpose a committee has for some years existed. In the Theatre , formerly celebrated for its decorations by Girolamo Genga , the first Italian comedy was performed. This was the Calandra of Cardinal Bibbiena (or rather Bernardo Divizio of Bibbiena in the Casentino, b. 1470, d. at Rome 1520), the friend of Pope Leo X. and patron of Raphael. From the height of the Fortezza an interesting *survey of the sterile chain of the Apennines may be made. From Urbino to Fossombrone diligence daily in 3 hrs. 294 Route 42. FANO. From Bologna From Peearo to Ancona the line skirts the coast, occasionally approaching within a few paces of the sea, of which a pleasant view is afforded. Fano (*Il Moro Tre Re), the Fanum Fortunae of antiquity a cheerful little town, surrounded by ancient walls and deep fosse! is as a watering-place more unpretending than Rimini. s J!! e . Pr ! nCipal CUri08ity is the * Triumphal Arch of Augustus, embellished with columns by Constantine. The harbour, once celebrated, is now insignificant. Churches : * Cathedral of 8. Fortunato ; in front of it are four recumbent lions which formerly supported the pillars of the portico. In the interior the chapel of S. Girolamo (2nd to the l.J contains a monument of the Rainalducci family; nearly opposite (4th to the r.) is a chapel adorned with 16 frescoes by Domenichino, once excellent, now disfigured by restorations. In the chapel of the sacristy, a Madonna with two saints, by Lodovico aracci S. Maria Nuova possesses two fine paintings by Pietro Perugino. — 8. Paterniano, with the Espousals of the Virgin by Ouercino. - 8. Pietro, with frescoes by Viviani; in e chapel of the Gabrielli the Annunciation by Guido Reni. The Collegia Folfi contains David with the head of Goliath by Domenichino , and copies of his frescoes in the cathedral. The Theatre, decorated by Bibiena, once one of the most cele- brated in Italy, has recently been re-erected. Pope Clement VIII. (Aldobrandini) was born at Fano in 1536. The first printing- press with Arabic types was established here in 1514 at the expense of Pope Julius II. A good road leads from Fano by Fossombrone to Urbino ; another over e Furlo Pass to Fossato , on the line from Ancona to Rome. Beyond Fano the train crosses the broad and impetuous Metauro, the ancient Metaurus , celebrated for the defeat of Hasdrubal, B. C. 207; then the Cessano , near stat. Marotto, and reaches Smigaglia (Locanda della Formica), the Roman Sena Gallica, a fishing and industrial town with 10,500 inhab. The ancient town, belonging to the Galli Senones, was destroyed by Pompey in the civil war between Marius and Sulla. During the middle ages it was frequently devastated by fire and sword, so that the present aspect of the town is comparatively modern. Here, on Jl-itK qexigr AjiaZ a Kd.Waynei' X>aj-mAtaxh>. ATVCOJYA. Cliie se . 4'.S. Af/ostuio 5 S JlaJ-tdloraeo 6 . S. Ciriaco (Drcomo ) 7 . S. Domenico 8 . S. Prances co ad alto 9. SPrancesco (Leila, scale 1 9 . Tecctro del idase 10 . S. (resit 1 1 . S.DTccria deUaPiazza 12 . S.Pcdazia 13. S.Pellegrino 14 . loggia de-DTercanli 15 . Palazzo del Governs? 16 . u dlv (riiestiz ia, 17 . // l ezicktemlterg 18 . S' taJrra di Clemente V 'M • ■ to Ancona. ANCONA. 42. Route. 295 Dec. 21st, 1502, Caesar Borgia, to the terror alike of friends and foes, caused several of the princes with whom he was allied to be executed. The town is cheerful and animated, and is well known for its important Fair, held between July 20th and Aug. 8th, established 600 years ago, and once the most frequented in Italy. Sinigaglia was an episcopal diocese as early as the 4th cent. Pope Pius IX. (Giovanni Maria, Count Mastai-Feretti) was born here in 1792, and the celebrated singer Angelica Catalani in 1784 (d. at Paris, 1849). No works of art here worthy of note. Stat. Case Bruciate; fine view towards the S. of the pro- montory of Ancona, rising above the sea. A short ’distance farther, the train crosses the Esino. At stat. Falconara the line unites with the Ancona and Rome Railway. Ancona (La Pace , near the harbour; *Vittoria, Str. Calamo, R. 2 fr.; *Cafe del Commercio , by the theatre; Cafe Dorico, opp. the exchange; Birraria Svizzera, Piazza Cavour. — Lloyd’s Office , Con- trada del Porto 30, opposite S. Maria della Piazza. Post Office, Yia Calamo. Fiacre incl. luggage, to or from the station 1 fr. — Por- ter 60 c.), the Ancon of the Greeks, i. e. “elbow”, from the form of -the promontory, whence to the present day an elbow forms part of the armorial bearings of the town, is beautifully situated be- tween the promontories of Monte Ciriaco and Monte Conero, or M. Ouasco, and possesses an excellent harbour. Population 31,857 inhab., among whom are 6000 Jews. Ancona is supposed to have been founded by Doric Greeks from Syra- cuse, whence termed Dorica Ancon by Juvenal (Sat. IV. 40). Subsequently a Roman colony, it was furnished by Trajan with an enlarged mole. In the middle ages it repeatedly recovered from the ravages of the Goths and others, and in 1532 came into the possession of Pope Clement VII. through the instru- mentality of Gonzaga. Ancona is also frequently mentioned as a fortress in the annals of modern warfare. Thus in 1796 it was surrendered to the French, in 1799 to the Austrians, in 1805 to the French again ; in 1815 it was ceded to the pope, to whom it belonged till 1860. In 1832 — 38 the citadel was garrisoned by the French (under the Perier ministry), in order to keep in check the Austrians, who were in possession of Bologna and the surrounding provinces. In 1849 the town was the scene of many ex- cesses, and on June 18th was re-captured by the Austrians ; on Sept. 20th, 1860, after the battle of Castelfidardo , it was finally occupied by the Italians. On the old mole the marble * Triumphal Arch , erected A. D. 112 toy the Roman senate in honour of Trajan on the completion of 296 Route 42. ANCONA. From Bologna the new wharf, as the inscription records, is still standing. It is> one of the finest existing ancient works of this description. Traces of the bronze decorations with which it was once embellished are still distinguished. The new wharf, constructed by Pope Clement XII., also boasts of a triumphal arch, from designs by Vanvitelli , but far inferior to that above mentioned. The harbour is defended by seve- ral forts. The * Cathedral of S. Ciriaco , dedicated to the first bishop of Ancona, stands on a lofty site, once occupied by the temple of Yenus mentioned by Catullus (36, 13) and Juvenal (IY, 40), and contains the magnificent columns which once appertained to the ancient temple. The structure was begun in the 10th cent., the facade is of the 13th. The foremost columns of the beautiful Gothic portico rest on red lions. The octagonal dome is re- puted the oldest in Italy. The crypt of the r. transept contains the ^Sarcophagus of Titus Gorgonius, Prsetor of Ancona, and other Christian antiquities; in the other transept are the tombs of St. Cyriacus, Marcellinus and Liberius. Within a house in the vicinity are scanty remains of a Roman amphitheatre. The churches of S. Francesco and S. Agostino also possess Gothic porticos. The Romanesque portico of S. Maria della Piazza is a still finer structure. The Loggia de’ Mercanti (Exchange), de- signed by Tibaldi, has a Moorish aspect. The Palazzo del Go- verno contains a small picture-gallery. In the Piazza di S. Domenico stands a marble statue of Pope Clement XII. (Corsini, 1730—40), the especial benefactor of the town. Ancona is celebrated for the beauty of its women. The steamers of the Austrian Lloyd , on their way to Corfu, Patras, Syra, Athens, Smyrna and the Levant, stop at Ancona every Thursdays to Trieste, which is reached in 20 hrs., every Friday. From Ancona to Borne railway via Foligno in 13 hrs., see Baedeker's Central Italy. From Ancona by railway to Pescara, Foggia, Bari, Brindisi and Lecce, 368 M., see Baedeker' s Central Italy and Southern Italy. Excursions from Ancona. The Province of Ancona, the ancient Picenum , is a remarkably fertile district, replete with beautiful scenery. The Apennines send forth a series of parallel spurs towards the sea, forming a number of short, hut picturesque valleys. The towns and villages are invariably situated conspi- cuously on the heights. To the W. the view is bounded by the to Ancona. OSIMO. 42. Route. 297 Central Apennines , which here attain their greatest elevation in several continuous ranges, from the Montagna della Sibilla to the Oran Sasso d J Italia, and are covered with snow till July. To- wards the E. glitters the broad Adriatic, on which numerous picturesque sails are visible in clear weather. The following excursions are within easy reach of Ancona. The Monte Conero, on the spurs of which Ancona is situated,, projects into the sea, forming a bold and picturesque feature of the coast. It is crowned by a Camaldulensian monastery, whence an extensive *prospect may be enjoyed. The summit may be attained by the pedestrian (by Pietra la Croce , following the heights above the sea) in 3 hrs.; or a carriage may be taken to Camerano whence the top is reached in i 1 / 2 hr. Osimo (first station on the line to Brindisi ; omnibus to the town, 3 M. distant, 60 c.), the ancient Auximum , constituted a Roman colony B. C. 144, and mentioned by Caesar, is now a small country- town, containing some interesting relics of its for- mer importance. It lies on a hill, in a naturally strong position. The greater part of the *Town Wall , dating from the 2nd cent., B. C., is still standing. A walk round it is recommended for the sake of the beautiful view it affords. The Palazzo Pubbltco in the spacious Piazza contains inscriptions and statues of cele- brated natives of the place, dating from the imperial period, barbarously mutilated on the occasion of the capture of the town in the 16th cent. One of the inscriptions mentions Pom- pey, who was settled for a time in Picenum. From Osimo the traveller should either return to the station and proceed thence by fiacre (1 fr.) to Loreto , or take a carriage direct from the town thither (5 fr.). The road passes Castel- fidardo, where on Sept. 18th, 1860, the papal troops under La- moriciere were totally defeated by the Italians undet Cialdini. Lamoriciere fled with a few attendants to Ancona, where h& was soon compelled to capitulate. Loreto (Albergo Gemelli; Campana; Posta), celebrated for its magnificent church, the object of so many pious pilgrimages, is visited by about half a million pilgrims annually. According to the legend , the house of the Virgin at Nazareth was an object of the highest veneration since 336, when the aged Empress Helena,, mother of Constantine, made a pilgrimage thither, and caused a basilica to be erected over it. Owing to the incursions of the Saracens the basilica 298 Route 42. LORETO. From Bologna fell to decay, and after tlie loss of Ptolemais the Casa Santa was mira- culously transplanted by the hands of angels to the coast of Dalmatia (the precise spot being between Fiume and Tersato), in 1291, where it remained undisturbed during three years. For some unknown reason, however, it was again removed by angels during the night, and deposited near Recanati, on the ground of a certain widow Laureta (whence the name Loreto). A church was erected over it and a number of houses soon sprang up for the accommodation of the devout believers who flocked to the spot. In 1586 Pope Sixtus V. accorded to Loreto the privileges of a town. Loreto lies conspicuously on a hill. A walk round the town affords an extensive *view of the sea, the Apennines and the Province of Ancona. The town itself consists of a single long street, full of booths with rosaries, medals and pictures, which are eagerly purchased by the pilgrims. Beggars are numerous. The *Church della Casa Santa , embellished under Sixtus Y. with a magnificent fagade, possesses a life-size statue of the Madonna and Child over the principal door, by Girolamo Lom- bardo , his sons and his pupils; also three superb bronze-doors, executed under Pope Paul V., 1605 — 21, and worthy of compa- rison with those of Pisa and Florence. The campanile , designed by Vanvitelli, is a very lofty structure in a richly decorated style, surmounted by an octagonal pyramid. The principal bell, presented by Pope Leo X. in 1516, weighs 11 tons. The nave is adorned with figures of the prophets, in chiaroscuro, by Luca -Signorelli. The *Casa Santa itself is a small brick hovel of the rudest kind. In a niche above the fire-place is a small image »of the Virgin and Child in cedar, painted black, attributed to St. Luke. It is richly adorned with jewels, the lustre of which is enhanced by silver lamps always kept burning. Above the Casa Santa rises a *Marble Structure , designed by Bramante and executed by a number of the most celebrated masters ( Sansovino , Girolamo Lombardo, Bandinelli etc.). It was commenced under Leo X. and completed under Paul III, The four sides are adorned with beautiful sculptures. W. Side. * Annunciation, by Sansovino , termed by Vasari “una opera ■divina” \ smaller representations by Sangallo , Gir. Lombardo and Gugl. della Porta. S. Side. *Nativity, by Sansovino; David and Goliath, Sibyls, Adoration of the Magi, by other masters. E. Side. *Arrival of the Casa at Loreto, by Mccolb Tribolo. N. Side. ^Nativity of the Virgin, commenced by Sansovino, continued by Baccio Bandinelli and Rafaele da Montelupo. Basreliefs : ^Nuptials of the Virgin, by the same masters. to Ancona. RE CAN ATI. 42. Route. 299 This sumptuous and unparalleled structure with its embellishments cost an enormous sum, although a number of the masters piously declined remuneration. The * Baptistery, cast in bronze by Tiburzio Vercelli and Giambattista Vitale , is adorned with basrelief and figures of Faith, Hope, Charity and Fortitude. In the chapel ^mosaics representing St. Francis, by Domenichino, and the Archangel Michael, by Guido Renij also a number of valuable pictures, frescoes and sculptures. The *Treasury-chapeI, with fine ceiling' paintings by Roncalli , still contains a number of interesting gifts dedicated to the Virgin, and other valuables, notwith- standing the despoliation at the time of the Peace of Tolentino (1797). Fee V 2 -l fr. The Jesuits' College and the *Palazzo Apostolico , commenced in 1510 from Bramante’s designs, rise on the r. and the 1. of the church. The latter is an episcopal residence. Valuable pictures in the Hall of the Princes: *Titian, Christ and the woman taken in adultery; Vouet , Last Supper; Schidone, St. Clara; Guer- cino, Descent from the Cross; *Ann. Caracci , Nativity of Mary. Among the numerous illustrious pilgrims who have visited the spot Tasso may be mentioned. He alludes to this in the beautiful Canzone: “Ecco fra le tempeste, e i fieri venti Hi questo grande e spazioso mare , O santa Stella, il tuo splendor m'ha scorto, Ch' illustra e scalda pur Vumane mentis From Loreto 47 2 M. (one-horse carr. 3 fr.) to Recanati, a fortified and important place in the middle ages. Municipal privileges were accorded to it by Emp. Frederick II. in 1229, the charter of which is shown at the Palazzo Comu- nale. The town is loftily situated and commands a number of charming views. The Cathedral of S. Flaviano , with Gothic porch, contains the monument of Gregory XII., of 1417. Several of the palaces merit notice, especially that of the Leopardi. The library and collections of the scholar and poet Giacomo Leo- pardi are shown here. From Recanati the traveller may either return by Loreto to the railway, or prolong his excursion to Macerata, a place of eome importance (diligence thence to the station). The road 300 Route 43. RAVENNA. thither passes the ruins of Helvia Ricina, after the destruction of which Recanati and Macerata sprang up. Remains of an amphitheatre, of a bridge etc. are observed close to the river Potenza. 43. From Bologna to Ravenna. Railway to Castel Bolognese see R. 42; from Castel Bolognese Branch - line to Ravenna in 13/4 hr., fares 4 fr. 55, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 75 c.; only two trains daily, considerable delay at Castel Bolognese; stations Solarolo , Lugo , Bagnacavallo (birthplace of th epainter usually known by that name, whose family-name was Ramenghi, 1484 — 1542), Russi and Godo. District flat and well cultivated. Ravenna ( *Spada d J Oro , Strada del Monte, R. 2, D. 3,. A. V 2 fr. 5 S. Marco , in the same street: Cafe Babucci, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele), a town of ancient origin, capital of a pro- vince till 1860, popul. 19,118, is situated in the plain between the rivers Lamone and Ronco (Rom. Bedesis), in a somewhat unhealthy locality. It was originally a seaport, hut is now 3 M. distant from the sea. Ravenna is a place of great historical im- portance and abounds in Christian antiquities. Numerous beggars. The town was founded, by the Pelasgi, but at an early period came into the possession of the Umbrians. Augustus constructed the Portus Classis and a canal, connected with the Po, round the S. side of the town, and appointed Ravenna the headquarters of the Adriatic fleet. The com- merce of the place now became more considerable, and a new quarter between the town and the harbour (Csesarea, a name which is perpetuated by the ruined church of S. Lorenzo in CesarecC) was erected. The harbour, however, having been gradually filled up by the deposits of the Po, Classis and Ceesarea fell to decay, whilst Ravenna continued to be the capital of the province Flaminia. As early as A. D. 44 it became an episcopal see, St. Apollinaris , a disciple of St. Peter being the first bishop. The Emp. Honorius transferred his residence hither from Rome in 402 on account of the great strength of the place, and in 438 Ravenna became the seat of an archiepiscopal see. After the fall of the Western Empire the town was taken by the Herulian Odoacer, king of Italy, then in 493 by Theodoric the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, after which it once more attained much of its former splendour and was the residence of the Gothic kings till 552. It then became the seat of the exarch or governor of the Eastern Roman,, or Greek Emperors, and continued under their sway until 752, when the Lombard Aistulph banished Eutychius the last exarch and took possession; of the town. Shortly afterwards, however, Ravenna was retaken by Pepin,, king of the Franks, and handed over to the pope, under whose rule it remained, excepting when his authority was disputed on several occasions by the Guelphs and Ghibellines. In 1275 the Polenta family, of whom honourable mention is made by Dante, obtained the supreme power. In 1318 Ravenna began to be governed by its own dukes ; in 1440 it came 1 Asxatlemia-dLBelle Arti . D.5 Chiose 2 di.S.Affatlut D.6 3 di. SApMcnare nunvo E4.5 4 ftas idea (Jh S. (do Bvan yetis /a E. 4 ' r"«f c.3 C. 5 D. 6 . C.2 C .4 C. 5 B. 3 D. 5 D.3 B3.4 C. 5 D. 5 C. 3 E6 D. 4 D.4 D.6 5 " ” di S.Yctale 6 Battistero 7 diGasseBifflioteca, 8 dLS^Croce 9 di S . Domenico 10 Iktorno 11 fli Sff Fu/emia 12 dvS Francesco 13 di GioBattistu 14 deLSStGioeTaolo 15 S.Girolamo 16 di S^JHaddalawL U cUS^M^Mu/giore 18 di S^miivFartv IB diS"Mdlei Suffrcuji 20 SJiB/'Jidc iniAffricisco 21 dlSJdcolo 22 Oratorio drS^Ii 1 in (bsmcdirnTLA 23 deHoSpirito Santo E3.4 24 diS.Vittare . D.2 25 Canrento di S-Chiara E,5 26 MausoJeo di (kddvTlaejxLux C.2 27 Montr de pi'etd . . . . 28 Ospedcde Givzle EE.4 Palazzo 29 Jrdvescorile C.5 30 deLCbmum D.4 31 Ginanni G.5 32 Governatirv D.4 33 ZorateUL D.6 34 - » ••BaLCamo D.6 35 Rccaponi CTEerdmando D.5 36 - » , CcoKGizdzo C.5 37 „ . „ delleTeste C.4 38 Spreti D.3 39 di Teodor ico E.5 10 SerruTuxrioJtrtdyescovik C.5 41 Sepolcro dLDanbe D.5 42 „ „ „ Is aadoTsarca C.3 43 TeatroGomunodeJIligTderi D.4 44 Torre del putbhco D.3 Albcr ghi a. Spadad’Oro . D.4 A.SJHctrco E.4 Piazza I deUjLqvrila . C.D.4 IT ABighierv . D.4 IT Darmstadt, Ed. Wanner . / RAVENNA. 43. Route. 301 Into the possession of the Venetians, under whom its prosperity materially increased; in 1509 it was conquered by Pope Julius II., and appertained to the States of the Church till the treaty of Tolentino in 1797. It was, however, restored in 1815, but again severed from the papal dominions in 1860. Those interested in the history of art are strongly recommended to visit Ravenna, as no other town in Italy contains such a number of monu- ments, most of them in good preservation', of the architecture, sculpture and painting (mosaics) of the early part of the middle ages. The circumference of the town is considerable (3 M.), but nearly one half of the area is occupied by gardens. It pos- sesses six gates: W. the Porta Adriana , erected 1585, on the site of the ancient Porta Aurea, E. the P. Alberoni, S. the P. S. Manante , N. the P. Nuova , P. Sisi of 1568, and the P. Serrata, closed by the Venetians, but re-opened by Julius II. and named P. Qiulia. The present harbour of Ravenna is used for the coast-traffic only. After the Porto Candiano had become choked up, the Canale Naviglio was constructed in 1737, in order to connect Ravenna with the sea, and is especially important for the communication with Chioggia and Venice. The harbour is 6 M. distant from the town. Near it is the hut in which Garibaldi sought refuge in 1849 from his Austrian pursuers on his flight from Rome. His wife died during the flight and was interred here. (Steamboat to Trieste every Frid. in 10 — 12 hrs.). The following are the principal squares: The * Piazza Maggiore , which is said to correspond with the ancient Forum Senatorium, is adorned with two lofty granite columns erected by the Venetians in 1483, surmounted with statues of SS. Apollinaris and Vitalis, with bas-relief by Pietro Lombardo ; also a statue oj: Pope Clement XII. (1738) and a colonnade of 8 columns of granite, said to appertain to a basi- lica erected or restored by Theodoric. Beyond this Piazza is the Piazzetta delV Aquila , with a granite column crowned by an eagle, erected 1609 to Cardinal Gaetani. The Piazza del Duomo is adorned with a column to the Virgin, of 1659. The Churches of Ravenna are numerous and interesting. The *Cathedral of 8. Orso, or Basilica Orsiana , founded by St. Ursus in the 4th cent., was unfortunately entirely altered in the 18th cent, by the Archb. Guiccioli (his monument by Sarti 302 Route 43. RAVENNA. Battisterio. is in the 1. aisle). The chapel of the Holy Sacrament in the L transept contains the falling of the Manna and Abraham and Melchisedech (?), by Guido Rent. The frescoes on the ceiling, Christ in his glory, are by the pupils of GK Reni, that in the lunette r. of the entrance to the sacristy, representing ^Elijah, is by that master himself. The high altar contains a marble sarcophagus with the remains of 9 bishops, of a very early date. The silver crucifix is adorned with figures executed in the 6th cent. The chapel of the Madonna del Sudore in the r. tran- sept contains the marble sarcophagi of SS. Barbatian and Regi- nald. At the back of the choir are several marble slabs with figures of animals, dating from the 6th cent.,-, fragments of an ancient pulpit (“ambo”). The Sacristy contains the Easter- Calendar from 532 to 626 and the * Ivory Chair of St. Maximian, with bas-reliefs of the 5th und 6th cent, representing the history of Joseph. The *Eaptistery (S. Giovanni in Fonte) adjoining the cathe- dral (entrance through the house of the cure), probably also founded by St. Ursus (d. 396) and dedicated to John the Bap- tist, is an octagonal structure, with series of arcades in the in- terior resting one above the other. The cupola is decorated with ^mosaics of the 5th cent., representing the Baptism of Christ,, and the A 2 Apostles. The large font is of white marble. Two adjoining chapels contain old marble sculptures of the 6th cent., among them an urn from the temple of Jupiter at Caesarea (?). An ancient cross of metal on the roof dates from 688. S. Agata, of the 5th cent., contains handsome marble co- lumns between the nave and aisles. *S. Appollinare Nuovo, a basilica erected about 500 by Theo- doric as an Arian cathedral, was subsequently converted by the Archbishop S. Agnello into a Rom. Cath. place of worship. The interior contains 24 marble columns brought from Constantinople ; the walls of the nave are adorned with interesting ^mosaics of 570: 1. the town of Classis with the sea and ships, in the fore- ground 22 virgins with the Magi, worshipping the Infant Saviour and his mother ; r. the city of Ravenna with the church of S. Vitalis and the palace of Theodoric , and 24 saints with wreaths receiving the blessing of Christ; above are apostles and saints; still higher, scenes from scriptural history. In the last RAVENNA. S. Giov. Evang. 43. Route. 303 chapel on the 1. a portrait of Justinian in mosaic and an ancient episcopal chair. S. Domenico, originally a basilica, founded by the exarchs and subsequently restored, is adorned with works of Niccol'o Ron- dinello of Ravenna, pupil of Giovanni Bellini. S. Francesco is said to have been founded by St. Petrus- Chrysologus about the year 450, on the site of a temple of Nep- tune, but is now entirely modernized. The aisles are separated from the nave by 22 columns of coloured marble; unsightly modern ceiling. At the entrance are several ancient tombstones; r. that of Ostasio da Polenta of 1396; 1. that of Enrico Alfieri, who died 1405 as general of the Franciscans, a member of the- same family as the poet of that name. R. the sarcophagus of the archbishop St. Liberius, of the 5th cent. The Cappella del Crocefisso, the 2nd on the r., contains two *columns of Greek marble with capitals by Pietro Lombardi. S. Giovanni Battista, with an ancient round tower, erected by Galla Placidia in 438 for her confessor St. Barbatian, was almost entirely remodelled 1683. The columns of the interior belong to the original structure. S. Giovanni Evangelista, or 8. Giovanni della Sagra , near the 1 railway-station, erected in 444 by the Empress Galla Placidia in consequence of a vow made during a voyage from Constantinople,, has also lost much of its interest, as well as its ancient mo- saics, by alterations. Above the *Portal are reliefs in allusion to the foundation of the church. In front of the church is a court, which, as recent excavations show, once formed the atrium of the edifice. The interior, with clumsy circular vaulting, con- sists of nave and aisles borne by 24 antique columns. In the closed chapel 1. of the choir are some remnants of old *mo- saics, representing the storm at sea and Galla Placidia. S. Maria in Cosmedin (in the ..vicinity) was the baptistery of the neighbouring Arian Cathedral of S. Spirito. It was ador- ned with ^mosaics in the 6th cent, when it became a Rom. Cath. church. In the cupola the Baptism of Christ, surrounded by the 12 Apostles. The walls are covered with half obliterated frescoes of the last cent. The present pavement is about 7 ft. above the original level. (Key kept by the sacristan of S. Spirito). Adof jacent is the church 304 Route 43. RAVENNA. 8. Vitale. S. Spirito, or 8. Teodoro , erected by Theodoric for the Arian bishops, a basilica containing 12 columns of cploured marble. In the first chapel on the 1. is a pulpit of the 6th cent, with ancient sculptures. S. Maria in Porto, by the Porta Nuova, erected 1553 from the remnants of the Basilica S. Lorenzo in Cesarea, contains in the 1. transept a very ancient marble figure of the Virgin in the Byzantine style, transferred hither from the church of S. Maria in Porto Fuori. In the 3rd chapel on the 1. the martyrdom of St. Mark; opp. to it, in the 3rd chapel on the r., St. James by Della Porta ; the paintings of the 4th chapels on the r. and 1. are by Franc. Longhi. In the choir an old porphyry vase of admirable workmanship. S. Michele in Affricisco, erected in the 6th cent., is now destroyed and converted into a fish-market- and wood-magazine. The mosaics of the tribune and the old tower are still preserved. S. Niccolo, built by Archb. Sergius in 768, contains numerous paintings by the Augustine monk Padre Cesare Pronti and by Francesco da Cotignola. S. Romualdo, or Classe, formerly appertaining to the Camal- dulensian Order, contains some rare and beautiful specimens of marble, a ciborium of lapis lazuli etc. In the refectory the Marriage of Cana, a fresco by Luca and Francesco Longhi. Fine carved work on the door (key kept by the porter of the Collegio, p. 307). *S. Vitale, an octagonal structure fitted up with all the ad- juncts of ecclesiastical magnificence, is one of the earlist Christian churches in existence. It was founded under Justinian by Archb. Ecclesius, on the spot where St. Vitalis suffered martyrdom, and was consecrated by St. Maximian in 547. It was erected in imita- tion of St. Sophia at Constantinople and served in its turn as a model to Charlemagne for the construction of the cathedral at Aix-la- Chapelle. Between the 8 pillars of the interior are semicircular niches with pairs of columns and arches, in two series, one above the other, over which rises the dome, con- structed of earthen vessels. Each of the windows in the dome is divided by a mullion into two round-arched halves. The pavement has been raised more than 3 ft., and the street is 6 ft. above the former level. S. Nazario e Celso. RAVENNA. 43. Route. 305 Opp. the former principal entrance (now built upl is the choir, con- taining admirable * Mosaics: Christ enthroned on the globe, angels at the sides, then St. Vitalis and Ecclesius with the church itself. Below, 1. Emp. Justinian with St. Maximian, r. the Empress Theodora accompanied by the ladies of her court, both presenting offerings. On the triumphal arch are represented Jerusalem and Bethlehem. Above, at the sides, the 4 Evangelists sitting, Isaiah and Jeremiah standing, Moses loosing his sandals and receiving the Law. Christ the Good Shepherd. Farther r. an altar with bread and wine; at the sides the blood-sacrifice of Abel and the bloodless offering of Melchisedech. L. a table at which the three angels are entertained by Abraham, Sarah at the door laughing. In the archway busts of Christ, the Apostles and SS. Gervasius and Protasius. B. by the high-altar an admirable *Greek Relief' from a temple of Neptune, genii before the throne of Neptune with his shell and trident; opp. to it a modern copy. In the sacristy a *Roman Reliefs the Apotheosis of the em- peror; the goddess Roma is recognised sitting on the 1., on the star above the forehead Julius Csesar, then Augustus and Claudius. Opp. are frag- ments of an early Christian sarcophagus, with Daniel in the lions’ den and the Raising of Lazarus. At the back of the church is the monument of the exarch Isaac (d. 641), with Greek inscription, erected by his wife Susanna. Adjacent to it are several other ancient inscriptions. The custodian of S. Vitale also keeps the key of *S. Nazario e Celso, the Mausoleum of G alia Placidia, founded about 440 by that Empress, daughter of Theodosius 4 the Great and mother of Valentinian III. The church is in the form of a Latin cross, 46 ft. long, B9 ft. broad, with a dome, and adorned throughout with mosaics, representing the 4 Evangelists, prophets, the Good Shepherd, the Saviour with the gospels in his hand, stags at the spring etc. The altar, constructed of transparent oriental alabaster, was formerly in S. Vitale; behind it is the large marble * Sarcophagus of Galla Placidia (d. 450), formerly adorned with plates of silver. The Empress sitting on a throne was formerly to be seen in the interior, but her remains were destroyed in 1577 by the accidental ignition of the robes. On the r. of this monument is a marble sarcophagus decorated with Christian emblems, containing the remains of the Emp. Hono- rius, brother of Galla Placidia: 1. that of Constantius III., her second husband (417) jind father of Valentinian III.; at each side of the entrance is a small sarcophagus containing the remains of the tutors of Valentinian and his sister Honoria. These are the sole monuments of the emperors of ancient Rome which still remain in their original position. Baedeker. Italy I. 20 306 Route 43. RAVENNA. Dante's Tomb. In the vicinity of the church of S. Apollinare (p. 302) in the principal street, which leads from the Porta Serrata to the Porta Nuova, a few scanty remnants are still standing of the Palace ofTheodoric , in which the exarchs and the Lombard kings subse- quently resided. They consist of a high wail surmounted by 8 small columns of marble bearing round arches, with a simple gateway below. The columns and treasures of art of this palace were brought to Germany by order of Charlemagne. In front on the r. still stands a prophyry vessel, probably once a bath brought here m 1564, formerly believed to have contained the ashes of Theodonc and to have stood on the summit of his monument. The :i 'Tomb of Dante, who died at Ravenna Sept. 14th, 1321 at the age of 56, whilst residing here under the patronage of Guido da Polenta, was originally in the church of S. Francesco In 1482 however, the Venetian “Podesta” of the town, Bernardo Bembo (father of the celebrated Cardinal Bembo), caused a mausoleum to he erected to the poet adjoining the church from the designs of Pietro Lombardi. This was renewed 1692 at the expense of the town and 1780 by Cardinal Gonzaga of Mantua. It is a square structure with a dome, embellished with medallions of Virgil, Brunetto Latini the poet’s master, Can Grande della Scala and Guido da Polenta his patron ; beneath it the Sarco- phagus of Dante with the epitaph composed by himself: Jura Monarchiae, Superos, Phlegethonta lacusque Lustrando cecini, voluerunt fata quousque, Sed quia pars cessit melioribus hospita castris , Actor emque suum petiit felicior astris, Hie claudor Dantes , patriis extorris ab oris , Quern genuit parvi Florencia mater amoris. In 1865 the remains of the poet were found in a wooden cashet (now preserved in the library) and were then deposited in a marble urn. The visitors’ booh formerly kept here, now preserved at the library, contains the following beautiful lines of Dante written by Pope Pius IX. when here on a visit in 1857 (from Purg. XI, 100): Non e it mondan rumore altro che un fiato Di vento cli J or va quinci ed or va quindi , E muta nome, perche muta lato. Rotonda. RAVENNA. 43. Route. 307 The door of the tomb is closed (key at the town-hall), hut the interior may easily he surveyed through the window. The following are the principal palaces: The Palazzo Lovatelli del Como, near Porta Sisi, contains a few pictures of some value. The Archiepiscopal Palace, near the cathedral, possesses a chapel of the 5th cent, with mosaics etc., entirely in its ori- ginal condition. In one of the halls ancient inscriptions are preserved. The episcopal Archives comprise about 25,000 docu- ments on parchment. The Library, or Biblioteca Comunale (first floor), founded 1714 by the Abate Caneti, contains upwards of 50,000 vols. and 700 MSS., among the latter the celebrated MS. of Aristopha- nes of the 10th cent., one of Dante of 1369, another by Pietro Dante, commentary of Benvenuto da Imola, prayer-book of Mary Stuart with miniatures, the visitors’ book from the tomb of Dante (p. 306); rare editions, such as the Decretals of Boniface VIII. of 1465 etc. Beyond the spacious saloons of the library is a small collection of objects in ivory and coins of the popes, the Medici and the Malatesta, the golden ornaments of the helmet of King Odoacer etc. (fee 75 c:j. A number of Rom. inscrip- tions are built into the walls. The Academy of the Fine Arts contains an interesting col- lection of pictures, especially by masters of the place, such as a Crucifixion, Descent from the Cross and several portraits by Luca Longhi (d. 1580); pictures by his son Francesco; then a Descent from the Cross by Vasari', Madonna and saints by Cotig- nola', a large ancient mosaic found near Classe. The collection of casts is well arranged, among them a bust of St. Apollinaris by Thorwaldsen ; ^tombstone with recumbent statue of Guida- rello Guidarelli, “guerrier Ravennate”, formerly in S. Fran- cesco (fee 75 c.). About M. from the Porta Serrata is situated the *Rotonda ( S . Maria della Rotonda ), the mausoleum of Thedoric the Great. In order to reach it, the traveller takes the road fo the r. almost immediately after quitting the gate, and crosses the railway, beyond which the tomb is seen to the 1., shaded by poplars (key at the house, 30 c.). It was probably erected by his daughter Amalasuntha (about 530). The structure is of decagonal shape 20 * 308 Route 43. RAVENNA. S. Apollinare in Classe. with flat dome of 34 ft. in diameter, consisting of a single huge block of Istrian rock. The substructure with its ten arches is half under water; the upper part is approached by a double staircase of marble, added 1780. About 2V 2 M. from the Porta Alberoni is the church of S. Maria in Porto Fuori, erected by Bishop Onesti (known as II Peccatore”), in consequence of a vow made during a storm at sea, 1096, a basilica with open roof. The 1. aisle contains the sarcophagus of the founder, of 1119. The choir and the two adjacent chapels contain ancient * Frescoes , erroneously attri- buted to Giotto, scenes from the life of Mary and the Saviour, but unfortunately much damaged by the mischievous scrawling of visitors. This spot is supposed to have been the site of the old harbour and the massive substructure of the clock-tower to have appertained to the lighthouse (faro). (A visit to this church may conveniently be combined with that of S. Apollinare.) To the S., 3 M. from the Porta Nuova, is situated the basilica *S. Apollinare in Classe, probably the finest and most unaltered specimen extant of an early Christian church (one-horse carr. there and back 4 fr., with the digression to S. Maria 5 fr.). About 1V 4 M. from the gate a small marble column surmounted by a Greek cross (la Crocetta) marks the site of the ancient basilica of S. Lorenzo in Cesarea , the last remnant of the former town of Caesarea (p. 300), which was removed in 1553. A short distance farther, the Ponte Nuovo crosses the united rivers Ronco and Montone , the confluence is perceived higher up. Before the bridge is crossed, a path leads 1. in 20 min. to the church of S. Maria in Ponte. The road then traverses marshy meadows to S. Apollinare in Classe, erected 534 by Julianus Argentarius on the site of a temple of Apollo, restored 1779. This church is a basilica with open roof, and nave and aisles resting on 24 columns of cipollino. A broad flight of steps leads from the nave to the high altar and the tribune, passing over the crypt. The walls are decorated with portraits of bishops and archbishops of Ravenna, an unbroken series of 126, from the first bishop St. Apollinaris, who suffered martyrdom in 74 under Vespasian, to the present archbishop. The aisles each contain four marble monuments of archbishops. The high altar is richly decorated with stones of various colours. The canopy Colonna de' Francesi. RAVENNA. 43. Route. 309 is borne by four columns of black and white oriental marble. In the tribune well preserved ^mosaics of the 6th cent. : St. Apol- linaris preaching, surrounded by his flock; on the sides above, Moses and Elias; beneath, the sacrifice of Melchisedech; opp , Constantine and other Rom. emperors, among them the 4 arch- bishops SS. Ursicinus, Ursus, Severus and Ecclesius; on the triumphal arch, Christ and the 4 Evangelists, to whom the belie- vers (represented as sheep) are hastening from the towns of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. The crypt contains the ancient tomb in which St. Apollinaris once reposed. The tower is round, a form peculiar to Ravenna; it may be ascended by means of lad- ders, but the view from the top is limited. The Pine-Forest of Ravenna , or La Pxneta, probably the most ancient and extensive in Italy, and which has been celebrated by Dante , Boccaccio , Dryden and Byron, extends for many miles along the road to Rimini, as far as Cervia (p. 310). About 2 M. from Ravenna, on the bank of the Ronco, rises the Colonna de J Francesi, a memorial of the victory gained on April 11th, 1512 by the united armies of Louis XII. of France and the Duke of Ferrara (at which the poet Ariosto was present) over the troops of the Spanish and of Pope Julius II. At the moment when the victory was decided, the brave Gaston de Foix fell; 20,000 dead were left on the field. Cardinal de' Medici, who a year later ascended the papal throne as Leo X., was taken prisoner on the occasion. The column, with a lengthy inscription, was erected by Pietro Cesi, governor of the Romagna. Lord Byron, who preferred Ravenna to all the other towns of Italy, and was influenced in some measure by his intimacy with the Coun- tess Guiccioli, who was a member of the Gamba family of Ra- venna, spent two years of his life here, during which he wrote several of his finest works, the “Prophecy of Dante”, “Marino Faliero”, the “Two Foscari”, “Cain”, “Heaven and Earth” and the “Vision of Judgment”. He resided at No. 225 Strada di Porta Sisi, near the Piazza S. Francesco; the same house was afterwards occupied by Garibaldi, as a memorial-tablet records. From Ravenna a road leads to (65 M.) Ferraraby Alfonsine, Lavezzola , Argenta, Consandolo and Fossanovci , traversing a flat, well-cultivated district, but destitute of interest. A good road leads from Ravenna to Rimini (no diligence), skirting the coast, but seldom affording a view of the sea, which is concealed by 310 Route 44. SASSO. sand-hills. It traverses a monotonous, flat district, passing S. Apollinare m Classe, the pine-forest, Cervia (a small town in an unhealthy situation an episcopal see, with salt-works in the vicinity), Gesenatico , S. Martino a wooden bridge over the ■ Bso, probably the Rubicon of the ancients (comp, p 289), and Celle, altogether 33 M, a journey which may be ac- complished by carr. m 5 hrs., a route recommended to parties of three or four travellers together in preference to the railway. 44. From Bologna to Florence. Railway from Bologna to Pistoja in 4 hrs., thence to Florence in 1/2 hr -’ fares t0 Pist 0 J a 11 10, 8 fr. 90, 6 fr. 70 c. 5 to Florence 14 fr 50 11 fr. 55, 8 fr. 60 c. * This line, which intersects' the Tuscan Apennines in nearly a straight BrldfpT; 18 °^^? he m0St im P 0Sing Structures of kind in existence. Bridges, tunnels (45 in all) and galleries are traversed in uninterrupted suc- ession. Beautiful views are obtained (generally to the 1.) of the valleys °f (n the /P ennines > land farther on, of the luxuriant plains of j. , 7’ 6 ^ arden of Italy”. Doubts, however, have frequently been traffic bm ^ S ° lidity ° f theSe great stru ^ ures and much of the on bv meamfHfif fh and Tuscany is in consequence -still carried 7 the old r °ads across the Apennines from Forli and Faenza to Florence. A rival line is contemplated.^ As far as Porretta the line ascends the valley of the Reno, which it crosses a short distance beyond Bologna. On an island in the Beno, not far from Bologna, the Second Triumvirate was determined on by Octavian, Antony and Lepidus, to the "pro- scriptions of which Cicero and others fell victims (comp, p, 268). First stat. Bor go Panigale; then Casalecchio, where the moun- tainous valley of the Reno expands into the plain of the Po. ere on June 2Gth, 1402, the army of Giovanni Bentivoglio was defeated by Gian Galeazzo Yisconti and on May 21st, 1511, that of Pope Julius II. under the command of the Duke of Urbino, by the French. L., near stat. Sasso, the brook Setta falls into the Reno, from which a subterranean aqueduct, constructed by Augustus, leads to Bologna. The restoration of this channel, with a view to supply the town with better water, has recently been proposed. Next stat. Marzabotto, with modernized castle, visible from the train. Between this point and Pracchia there are 22 tunnels. At stat. Vergato the valley expands; then stat. Riola; 1. rise the abrupt peaks of Monte Ovolo and Monte Vigese; a landslip from the latter destroyed the village of Yigo in 1851. On the 1 . bank of the Reno is the- restored castle of Savignano, with picturesque environs; farther on, the village of Porretta CAFAGGIOLO. 44. Route. 311 (*Locanda Nuova d’ltalia; Palazzino), on the Reno, with mineral springs and baths, much frequented in summer. Beyond Porretta the line quits the valley of the Reno. Numerous tunnels are now passed through, and the culminating point of the line reached. Beyond stat. Pracchia the line gradually descends by means of a series of galleries ; beyond stat. Piteccio a view is at length revealed of the lovely and populous plain of Tuscany. A num- ber of charming villas are next passed, and the tram stops at Pistoja (p. 336). From Pistoja to Florence see R. 47. The old road, now disused, from Bologna to Florence ascends the valley of the Savena and passes S. Rufilo , Pianoro , Filigare and Pietramala in a bleak district. About l/ 2 hr. E. from the latter are I Fuochi or the burning mountain (Monte di Fo), the flames of which (produced by gas, as proved by Volta) produce a most striking effect, especially at night. Similar, though less imposing, is the Acqua Buja, l/ 4 hr. W. of Pl ^ a ‘ mala with inflammable water-bubbles. From Pietramala an ascent of 1 hr. at the base of Monte Beni and the Sasso di Castro to Covigliajo , at a con- siderable elevation, with an inn (* Porta); then H/ 4 hr. more to La Futa the culminating point of the road, about 3000 ft. above the sea-level, occasionally obstructed by snow in winter. Then a descent to Monte Carelli beyond which another ridge of the Apennines is traversed before the road finally descends to the valley of the Sieve , known as the Val di Mugello. The road to the r. leads to Barberino and thence to Prato (and Pistoja), that to the 1. to Florence. About 2 M. before Cafaggiolo is reached, the road passes Le Maschere, now an inn, situated m the midst of most picturesque scenery and affording views of the Apennines and the extensive valley of the Arno. Cafaggiolo is a post- stat. on the r. bank of the Sieve. Then Fontebuona, beyond which the road descends rapidly; somewhat to the 1. is Pratolmo, a villa of the former grand-dukes, situated in the woods. A castle once erected here by Buontalenti for Francesco de’ Medici, son of Cosmo I., for the reception of his mistress Bianca Capello, has long since been destroyed. Almost the sole trace of its former splendour is the. column of Apenninus, 60 ft. in height. The road now descends between villas and gardens, passing Fiesole (p. 394), to Florence, which is entered by the Porta S. Gallo. 45. From Genoa to Florence (by sea) by Leghorn, Pisa and Empoli. The Italian Mail Steamers (comp. p. 114) of the Societa Rubatino and the Societh Peirano start daily at 11 p. m. from Genoa for Naples via Leghorn. The vessels of the French Compagnie Fraissinet leave on Mon- days and Thursdays at 8 p. m., and those of the. Compagnie VaUry on Mondays and Thursdays at 10 p. m. for Naples via Leghorn and Civita- vecchia. The Messageries Imperiales have discontinued touching at Genoa. 312 Route 45. LEGHORN. From Genoa Fares to Leghorn 32 fr. 50 22 fr j, the offices previous to the starting of the vessel" ofTh^ ** *els are not entirely unexceptionable with regard to cle.nV of these yes ' may be made beforehand on this head. - Boat to If*'!’ en '3' ,iri «» 1 fr. each pers. incl. luggage — Travel le™ • • fr ° m the steamer and intending to proceed thence by rXly UTdTolbfe T * "*• by at once booking their luggage for it. I Li- W and ann °y anc e mediately after “* harb0 " r - im ' of the douane (20 cl should ho ‘ °r this purpose a facchino and impoZttfbyinS emPl ° yed ’ “ d —priced Leghorn, Ital. Livorno , French Livourne e ? rthe *“» *— •«* harbour (porto nnovo) The tariff for d s “h P '!. Ceed the 0Uter from the Porto e^^^^^y Z^T^T bag 40 hat-box 20 ! ‘ ^ or the » ,a Veach box 80, travelling- ding to taZ C ” " f ° r ‘ heSe ‘ hree articles together 1 fr. (acco?- adjoWnfit S Washington,, on the harbour and canal; ^' 0 “o-r«ttr ,h P ri e „L~ is easily Ztatae’d “ *" 1 pr0l0Ilged st ^ 3 .«*- Edging sr;„ri:r„r hour E lT7n DriVe n" ,he t0Wn 85 «•> With0ut the ‘own 1 fr. 70 c. ; per At nighf’ bomlZ* SUCCeed ': ng l' 2 hr ' 60 0 - ! t0 " fr» m tte stat. i f,. Of. on ’ a ; m - 5 in the town 1 fr. 15 c., without the town • ' . ’’ P e ^ br. 2 fr. 85 c. j to or from the stat. 1 fr. 80 c. The ser- recei at the Stat - are gratUit0US ’ but they generally fnwn AS ^ e ^ horn is a ^ee harbour, luggage is examined as it leaves the Should be proTJeV^l)^ 60 ^ ° f the ^a«on d’^T tCThe ^eday‘adm e wT ri ° 6 **“ to Florence. LEGHORN. 45. Route. 313 Sea Baths. Casini e Bagni di Mar e, on the road to Ardenza and Antignano. Bath with boat and towel 1 fr. ; season from the middle of June to August. — Warm Baths in the town, near S. Marco, in winter 1 fr. 40 c., in summer 1 fr.*, also in the Via della Pace. Consuls. English (Mr. Macbeari) Via della Madonna 12 ; American, next door to the Victoria Hotel ; Spanish, Via Maremmana 34, visa for Rome 4 fr. ; commissionaire who procures it 1 fr.; Prussian, Via della Madonna 10; Dutch, ( Via del Porticciolo 3; Russian, Via del Corso Reale 21. — French, Belgian, Danish, Swedish and other consuls also reside here. Theatres. S. Marco; Floridi; Rossini; Goldoni; operas and dramas, stalls generally 2 fr. — Labronica and Alfieri, small open- air theatres. English Church, resident chaplain. Railway by Pisa] and Massa to La Spezia , see R. 46. — To Rome by the Maremme Line in 10 hrs. — Steamboat-passengers [touching at Leghorn generally- have time for a brief excursion hence to Pisa, for the sake of visiting the cathedral and Campo Santo. Leghorn, in th'& 16th cent, a very insignificant place (in 1551 only 749 inhab.) is indebted for its size and importance to the Medicis, who invited hither the oppressed and discontented from all parts of the continent, such as Roman Catholics from England, Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, and merchants from Marseilles who were anxious to eseape from the perils of civil war. Montesquieu consequently terms Leghorn “the master- piece of the dynasty of the Medicis”. - Present popul. 84,000 among whom 20,000 are Jews. Leghorn is a free harbour, and protected by fortifications. The town contains little to detain the traveller. It is a well built, thoroughly modern place. A few hours will suffice to explore it. The Harbour is a very busy spot, and extensive new works are now in progress. The inner harbour (Porto Vecchio , or Mediceo) is too shallow to admit vessels of large tonnage; the Porto Nuovo was therefore constructed during the present century, to the S. of the old harbour, and protected from the W. by a semicircular mole. Picturesque glimpses are obtained hence of the sea with the islands Elba, Gorgona and Capraja. An excursion by boat on the harbour will be found very pleasant in fine weather (1 fr. per hr. , agreement necessary). By the harbour is the * Statue of the Grand Duke Ferdinand I., by Giov. dell' Opera, with 4 Turkish slaves in bronze by Pietro Tacca . On the pier, 500 yds. in length, rises the Lighthouse , erected by the Pisans in 1303, the platform of which affords a good survey of the town, harbour and sea. Saule 45. PISA. From Genoa The town possesses well-paved streets and large and hand- some squares. It is intersected by canals and connected by a navigable canal with the Arno , the influx of which is 7 M. to the N. The Via Grande or Vittorio Emanuele is the principal street. It leads from the harbour to the spacious Piazza d J Armi in which the cathedral, the town-hall and a small royal palace’ are situated. It proceeds thence to the Piazza Carlo Alberto, formerly termed Piazza dei Principi , adorned with colossal Statues of the Grand Dukes Ferdinand ill. and Leopold II., with reliefs and inscriptions, referring to their services rendered to the town. Leopold II. (1792) was the founder of the *Gran Cisterna, a modern aqueduct which supplies Leghorn with drinking-water. The Via Vittorio Emanuele contains a number of very attractive shops of all descriptions, the most tempting objects in which are the ornaments in alabaster, coral and scagliolo (imi- tation of mosaic); in the Via del Fiore beautiful oriental shawls are sold by Salvatore Arbib, and E. Indian handkerchiefs by Mancini. Railway from Leghorn to Pisa in 25 min., fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 50 1 fr. 20 c.; from Pisa by Empoli to Florence in 21/2 hrs., fares 7 fr 60* 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 85 c. ‘ * The line crosses the Arno Canal and traverses flat meadow- land, intersected by canals and occasionally relieved by a few pines; to the r. a range of hills at some distance. The stat. at Pisa is on the S. side of the town. Those who desire to visit the cathedral and its environs only leave their luggage at the station, and, disregarding the importunities of the bystanders, proceed by fiacre (1 fr.) to the cathedral and Campo Santo. Pisa, a quiet town with 34,000 inhab., is considered a good winter-residence for invalids, on account of the mildness and moisture of the atmosphere, but the heat in summer is very oppressive. Hotels. On the Lung 1 Arno, N. side: *Peverada R. 3, L. 1 fr. ; *Vit- toria; *Gr a n Bretagna; Europa, by Ponte di Mezzo; *Hotel de la Minerve, Via Vittorio Eman., R. 3, L. l/ 2 fr., A. 70 c. ; Hotel de Londres, Ussero, both near the station. Restaurants. Nettuno, in the Lung 1 Arno ; Restaurant Francais, near the station, connected with the Minerve Hotel. Cafds. Ciardelli and Ussero, both Lung 1 Arno, N. side. PISA 13 SMrecu E.E.l 11 S.JppoUonicL D.2 15 JSccbbistero . B.l 16 Gamposanto E.2 _ 17 S .Ccdxrinaj E 2 IS Cca^Ji/^vdiS.Ste/hnx) . D.3 13 S.CeciUcu ... E.3 20 S.(bsimx>eBami(mo C.5 2L S.CJirlstcruu D.1.5 22 Huomoe/ Campanile, 3 .1 23 SJrediano D.3 21 Jjxxjlese B.5 25 S-jKodd/Jena. D.5 26 SJHm'LcuddXaSpiria ■ C.5 27 S.JHartco El 28 S.ltfartiru) E.6 29 SJticheLe *. E.l 30 STaolo ad/ Or to E.3 31 STaoToaJxipadlArrvo 11.6 32 SJiiervrw 33 SJRarderino 31 S.Sdxtetuxrw 35 S. Sepolcro 36 S.Shto El B.C.1 D. 5 E, 5 C.3 D.5 37 GiarduwTiotariicoY ^ g Stcn-iuBaticraZe' ^ 38 Liceo, Girmasio . ■ E.l 39 JMurrijcipio\ Dogcuvcv ) IVforiasteri. 10 Sdnncv D.2 Q- SBenedetto D.6 42 le/Cappucdne E.6 13 S.OvLarcv . 13.2 41 SJfomenLco, ■ D.7 46 SJHcMeo E.l 5 <|pl46 S.SHnejftro . G.5 r Palazzo \ 17 alia, GwrntxfxxTjSi 1 WTretorio E.5 492ka7e C.l 50TtfeZ77. C.l 51 Po sta delleTeltei v D . 1.5 52 TexztroDiurrw CJ__ 53 „ „ delRxxpvirvctL C.l 51 Torre deZLctFarne. D. 2.3 55 „ „ Guelfa e Cctadj. A6 56 TrovateUl . C.2 57 TJfTinw delFossv D.5 58 VncperstbCL e BibhLoteca CD.l — . to Florence. PISA. 45. Route. 315 Furnished Apartments in the Lung" Arno, 2—3 rooms 100—130 fr. per month ; cheaper as the summer approaches. Post-office on the 1. bank of the river, below Ponte di Mezzo. Physicians. Bartolini, Feroci, Fedeli, Burci. Photographer. Van Lint, Lung" Arno, below Ponte di Mezzo. English Church Service during the' winter and spring. Pisa, the ancient Pisae, is one of the most ancient towns in Etruria. It lay at the confluence of the Arnus and Auser (Ser- uhio), of which the latter now has an estuary of its own. The town is now situated on the Arno, about 2 V 2 M - from lts mouth ‘ In B. C. 180 Pisa became a Homan colony, Augustus gave it the name of Colonia Julia Pisana, and Hadrian and Antoninus Pius erected temples, theatres and triumphal arches here, all traces of which have long since disappeared. In the middle ages the town attained to considerable affluence by its commerce and maritime traffic, owing in a great measure to the orusades, and became a rival of Genoa and Venice. Sardinia, Corsica, Palermo and the Balearic Islands were once under the supremacy of Pisa; but these places were lost to it in succession, first owing to the defeat of the fleet under Ugolino, at Meloria, near Leghorn, by the Genoese, then in consequence of the unsuccessful wars with Lucca and Florence. Feuds of the nobles also tended materially to impair the resources of Pisa. After the assassination of Pietro Gambacorti in 1392 it came into the possession of the Visconti of Milan, and in 1406 into that of Florence, the fortunes of which it thenceforth shared. Pisa has produced more cele- brated architects and sculptors than perhaps any other town in Italy. Of these the most distinguished were Nicola Pisano (about 1240) and his son Giovanni Pisano , Andrea Pisano , the pupil of the latter (about 1340), and his son Nino Pisano. The Pisan school of painting held a considerably in- ferior rank; fine works by Buffalmacco , Benozzo Gozzoli, in the Campo Santo etc., are to be seen here, but these masters were not natives of the place. The University of Pisa, founded about 1340 by Bonifacio . della Ghe- rardesca and renewed by Cosmo I. in 1542, with a staff of 60 professors and attended by about 600 students, has educated a number of celebrated men at various periods. Here Galileo , who became professor of mathe- matics in 1610, first observed the oscillations of the pendulum, and paved the way for the subsequent discoveries which have rendered his name immortal. His Statue , by Emilio Demi , adorns the court of the university, having been erected 1839 to commemorate the first collection of the Scienziati Italiani. The University is also noted for the prominent part which it took in the events of 1848—59. Pisa possesses nine squares (the finest being the Piazza del Duomo, Piazza S. Caterina and the Piazza dei Cavalieri, formerly Piazza degli Anziani , the great central point of the republic of Pisa down to the foundation of the order of St. Stephen in 1561), three bridges over the Arno and numerous palaces, and churches. The grand point of interest is the **Piazza del Duomo, with the 316 Route 45. PISA. From Genoa Cathedral, the Leaning Tower, the Baptistery and the Campo Santo, a group of buildings without parallel, situated outside the town and removed from its Hi ™ vjeiasius II. m 1118. It is a basi nave and double aisles, 292 ft. in length, with galleries aisles, intersected by a transept with aisles, and surmoi an elliptical dome over the centre. aisles, and surmounted by Most of the 68 columns of over the — uuiuiuiis or the interior are antique. The greatest magnificence of this sumptuous and perfect structure is exhibited in the facade which is decorated from top to bottom with arches and columns in 5 different sections. Among the numerous columns with ca- pitals are many ancient Roman and Greet, captured by the Pisan* in war. In 1596 the dome and the whole church, with the exception of the choir, were seriously injured .by a con- nag rati on, but were subsequently restored. Many traces of the restoration are observable, especially in the interior. The ancient bronze doors of the cathedral were replaced in 1602 by the pre- sent doors, executed from designs by Giovanni da Bologna , by Mocchi, Tacca, Mora and others. In the Crociera di 8. Ranieri, in the S. aisle, is preserved the only one of the ancient bronze doors now extant, by Bonanus, representing 24 scriptural scenes. The designs of the 12 altars in the nave and aisles are attri- buted to Michael Angelo , their execution to Staggi da Pietra Santa. Remnants of old mural paintings by FalcOni and others are still perceptible in some places. The lions and Evangelists on the pulpit are by Nicola Pisano. On the triumphal arch an- gels by Bom. Ghirlandajo j unfortunately much retouched. The- high altar, overladen with marble and lapis lazuli, erected 1774 was restored in 1825. Above is Christ on the Cross, by Giam- bologna (by whom also, the three bronze doors with scriptural scenes were designed). The mosaic of the dome was designed by Cimabue. The choir contains paintings of SS. Peter, John, Margaret and Catharine by Andrea del Sarto, the ^Sacrifice of Abraham by Sodoma, the 4 Evangelists by Beccafumi. Inte- resting old stalls, finely executed. On the last pillar of the nave, to Florence. PISA. 45. Route. 317 ■on the r., St. Agnes by And. del Sarto. In the r. transept the * Chapel of S. Ranter i, containing the sarcophagus of the saint by Foggini, a Madonna in mosaic, and an ancient statue ol Mars, revered as Sjt. Ephesus ; a Madonna by Pierino del Vaga and Sogliani. Madonna and Child on the basin for the holy water, designed by Michael Angelo. The bronze lamp which hangs in the nave is said to have first attracted Galileo’s attention to the pen- dulum by its swaying motion. The *Cappella del S. Sagramento in the 1. transept contains remains of works by Staggi ; Adam and Eve; a basrelief by Mosca , at the back of the altar, which is adorned with valuable works in silver, presented by Cosmo III. The sacristan shows these curiosities. The cathedral formerly contained a greater number of mo- numents than at the present day. Some of them were injured by the conflagration, others transferred to the Campo Santo. At the sides of the principal entrance are those of Archb. Rinuccini fd. 1582), by Tacca, and Archb. Giuliano de’ Medici (d. 1660); also that of Cardinal Francesco d’Elci, erected 1742, by Vacca di Carrara. The *Baptistery (II Battisterio), commenced 1153 by Dio - tisalvi , but according to the inscriptions not completed till 1278, is a circular structure with a series of columns in the interior, over which rises a gallery. Most of the columns and capitals are antique. There are four entrances. In the interior the oc- tagonal *Font , with beautiful marble rosettes, and an admirable hexagonal *Pulpit , borne by 7 columns, with reliefs by Nicola Pisano, 1260: 1st, Annunciation and Nativity; 2nd, Adoration of the Magi ; 3rd, Presentation in the Temple ; 4th, Crucifixion ; 5th, Last Judgment. A dome, restored 1856, surmounts the struc- ture, 179 ft. in height. Sculptures at the E. entrance represent the martyrdom of John the Baptist. Fine echo in the interior. The ^Campanile, or clock-tower, commenced by the archi- tects Bonanno of Pisa and William of Innsbruck in 1174, and completed by Tommaso Pisano in 1350, is circular in form and decorated like the baptistery with rows of pilasters and arches. The great peculiarity, owing to which it is usually known as the Leaning Tower, is its remarkable oblique position, 12 ft. out of the perpendicular (height 142 ft.). Discussions have fre- 318 Route 45. PISA. From Genoa quently arisen as to whether this peculiarity was intentional or accidental. The most probable solution is that the foundations- settled during the progress of the structure, and that, to remedy the defect as much as possible, an attempt was made to give a vertical position to the upper portion. The *View from the platform, embracing the town and environs, the sea to the W and the mountains N.E., is- very beautiful; a good staircase of tha n « V 1*° *° p - Permission (*» » party of not fewer - than three) is obtained at the town-hall. The tower contains 6 bells, the heaviest of which weighs 6 tons and is suspended on the side opposite the overhanging wall of the tower The *Campo Santo, or Burial Ground, was founded by Archb Ubaldo ,1188-120° (access- daily; visitors knock at the door to ,bl v , r ' !'° the custodian on leaving). After the loss of * * H °’ y Land the archbishop conveyed 53 ship-loads of earth r Calvary, in order that the dead might repose in y ground. The structure which surrounds the churchyard was ZTL° e i283 b 78 , by 0rdeI p° f a " d - ! pleted in 1283 by Giovanni Pisano , in the Germanic-Tuscan style £ “ n 1 m lenS ‘, h ’ 137 ft in Width and 45 ft in height.' Externally there are 43 flat arcades resting on 44 pilasters, the capitals adorned with figures. Over one of the two entrances is a marble canopy, with a Madonna by Giovanni Pisano. In the interior is a wide quadrangular corridor, with 62 pointed win- dows (of 1463). enclosing a grass-plat, and adorned with various sculptures and paintings. Three chapels adjoin the Campo; the o dest is r. of the entrance, in the centre of the E. side, with dome of later date. The walls are covered with *frescoes by painters of the oldest Tuscan school, beneath which is a col- lection of sculptures, partly Roman and Etruscan, partly me- dieval. The latter are especially important links in the history of the earliest Italian sculpture. The tombstones of those bu- ried here form the pavement. Paintings. To the r. of the chapel on the E. wall a Cru- cifixion, Resurrection and Ascension by a follower of Giotto, sup- posed to he Buffalmacco. On the S. Wall: ^Triumph of Death (with several portraits; among the riders the bearded man to the h, according to Yasari, is Lewis the Bavarian; one holding his nose, Uguccione della Faggiuola; the man with a falcon in the to Florence. PISA. 45. Route. 319 group to the r.< Castruccio Castracani) and the *Last Judgment (remarkable attitude of the Judge) by Andrea Orcagna , the repre- sentation of hell attributed to his brother Bernardo. Then the life of the hermit saints in the Theban wilderness, attributed te Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzotti of Siena. Between the two entrances the history of St. Ranieri, patron saint of Pisa, proba- bly painted 1370 by Andrea di Firenze and Barnaba; those below, of finer contour, by Antonio Veneziano about 1386. Next, the history of St. Ephesus and St. Potitus, admirably depicted by Spinello Aretino about 1390. Then the history of Job by Fran- cesco da Volt err a , 1370—72, in vigorous outlines (erroneously ascribed to Giotto ), unfortunately half obliterated. No paintings of importance on the "W. wall. On the N. wall the history of the Genesis, creation of the world (il mappamondo), the Fall, the Deluge, by Pietro di Puccio of Orvieto, about 1390 (erroneously attributed to Buffalmacco). Then the followings paintings, admi- rably executed “a tempera” by Benozzo Gozzoli of Florence, 1469—85: Noah’s vintage and drunkenness (with the Vergognosa di Pisa, or the ashamed female spectator), the Curse of Esau, the Tower of Babel (with portraits of celebrities of that period, Cosmo de’ Medici, his son Pietro, his grandsons Lorenzo and Giuliano etc.), history of Abraham, Ham, Joseph and Moses, David and Goliath, and the Fall of the walls of Jericho, the two last much damaged. Benozzo himself was interred beneath th& history of Joseph, Sculptures and Monuments. S. Corridor in the I. corner inscriptions in honour of Caius and Lucius Csesar, grand- sons of Augustus. Roman sarcophagus with the rape of Proser- pine; on it is placed a fine head of M. Agrippa in basalt. Column with mutilated statue of the Madonna, by Nicola Pisano. Fragment of a sarcophagus with fine Bacchanalian representation. R. of the entrance the monument of the oculist Andrea Vacca (d. 1826) by Thorwaldsen, Tobias curing his father’s blindness. Madonna and Child with six saints, beneath them the history of Christ by Tommaso Pisano. Tombstone of Count Algarotti (d. 1764), erected by Frederick the Great. — W. End: Large ancient bath, subsequently used as a sarcophagus. Yirgin and Child by Giovanni Pisano. Monument of Emp. Henry VII. of Luxembourg, protector of Pisa which favoured the Ghibellines 320 Route 45. PISA. From Genoa (d. 1313 at Buonconvento), workmanship in the style of the Pisan school. On the wall above, the chains of the ancient har- bour of Pisa, captured by the Genoese in 1362; parts of them were given to the Florentines, who suspended them at the entrance of the Baptistery at Florence, but were restored to the Pisans in 1848; a second chain was restored to them by the Genoese in 1860. Two Roman sarcophagi with Etruscan cine- rary urns placed on them ; between them a group by Giovanni Pisano. Sarcophagus of Bishop Ricci (d. 1418) of the earlier Pisan school. On a broken column, a marble vase with fine Bacchanalian representation. — N. Corridor : Mutilated relief of the Three Graces. Large Greek ^relief from a tomb. Virgin and Child by Giovanni Pisano. In the chapel an ancient Madonna, attributed to Gaddi. Beautiful head of a young Greek, perhaps Achilles. Head of Pluto. Sarcophagus with Bacchanalian repre- sentation, upon it the bust of Isotta of Rimini by Mino da Fie- sole. *Sarcophagus with the myth of Hippolytus and Phaedra, from which Nicola Pisano copied several figures for his pulpit (p. 317); the remains of the Countess Beatrix (d. 1076), mother of the cele- brated Mathilde, were subsequently deposited here. Sarcophagus with children gathering fruit. Several Egyptian antiquities. Bacchanalian sarcophagus with the myth of Actaeon on the cover. Sitting statue, supposed to be the Emp. Henry VII., surrounded by four of his counsellors. Sarcophagus with the hunt of Meleager, another with battle of barbarians, a third with the 9 Muses. — E. End' Griffin in bronze with Coptic inscriptions. Sarcophagus of Ph. Dezio by Staggi. Statue of Leonardo Fibonacci by G. Paganucci. Monument of Count Mastiani, with the sitting statue of his incon- solable widow, by Bartolini. Etruscan altar with rams J heads at the corners. Monument of the singer Angelica Catalani (d. at Paris 1849), by Costoli. Statue of Nicola Pisano by Salvini. In the open space between the arcades two antique fountain-spouts. — A visit to the Campo Santo by moonlight is very impressive ; previous notice must be given to the custodian. Among the remaining churches the following deserve mention : *S. Caterina, in the German - Tuscan style, erected about 1253, is situated in a beautiful square planted with trees and adorned with a statue of Peter Leopold, by Pampaloni. The bhurch contains (1. by the door) the tombstone of Archbishop to Florence. PISA. 45. Route. 321 Simone Saltarelli by Nino Pisano , 1342; an altar of St. Thomas Aquinas with the portrait of the saint by Francesco Traini, 1340: in the 1st chapel r. of the choir, a Madonna with Peter and Paul, by Fra Bartolommeo and his friend Mariotto Albertinelli (d. 1512). S. Francesco possesses frescoes on the ceiling of the choir by Taddeo Gaddi, and cloisters with richly decorated columns and foliage. *S. Maria della Spina, a small and graceful structure on the S. bank of the Arno, erected 1230 in the German-Tusean style by the senate and the noble family Gualandi, for sailors about to go to sea. It was enlarged in 1323 and adorned with admirable statues by Giovanni Pisano and Nino Pisano. The key is kept by a stone-mason in the vicinity. S. Michele in Borgo, in the Sotto-Borgo, near the Ponte di Mezzo, designed by Nicola Pisano (?), in the German style of the 13th cent., with ancient crypt, is supposed to occupy the site of an old heathen temple. S. Mcola, founded about the year 1000 by Count Hugo of Tuscany as a Benedictine Abbey, with obliquely placed Cam- panile containing an admirable winding staircase, was designed by Nicola Pisano. S. Paolo a Rip a d’Arno, not far from the Ponte a Mare, of the 12th cent., with remarkable facade, is believed to have served as a model for the cathedral. The old frescoes of 1400 are much damaged. An ancient sarcophagus on the exterior contains the remains of Johannes Burgundius, the celebrated commentator on the Pandects, of the 12th cent. S. Sisto, founded on the festival of S. Sisto (Aug. 6th) in 1089, to commemorate several victories of the Pisans, contains fine columns of granite in the interior. It frequently served as a place of assembly for the Council of Pisa, and is consequently still under the special protection of the town. The Presbyterium contains the grave of a Buonaparte, who was professor of medicine at Pisa in 1744. S. Stefano ai Cavalieri, begun from designs by Vasari in 1565, interior completed 1595, the fagade designed by Buonta- lenti , situated in the Piazza dei Cavalieri, is the church of the knights of the Order of St. Stephen. It contains Turkish trophies Baedeker. Italy I 322 Route 45. PISA. From Genoa and paintings of the battle of Lepanto (1571) and other victories, by Cristoforo Alori , Jacopo da Empoli and others. On the 2nd altar to the 1 . a Nativity by Bronzino: u Quern genuit adoravit” , a finely conceived work. Excellent organ. Adjacent to the church is the Palazzo de J Cavalieri, erected by Vasari (now a school) 5 above the door are busts of 6 masters of the order; in front of the building a marble statue of the Grand-Duke Cosmo, erected 1596. In the vicinity once stood (till 1655) the ill-famed “Tower of Hunger”, or rather Torre dei Gualandi alle sette Vie, in which, in 1288, Archb., Ruggieri degli Ubaldini caused Count Ugolino dei Gerardeschi with his sons and nephews to be starved to death as a punishment for treason, as described by Dante in the 33rd canto of his Inferno. Among the Palaces on the Lung’ Arno, the following should be inspected. Palazzo Lanfreducci (now Uppezinghi ), with portions of a chain over the principal entrance and the enigmatical inscription “Alla Giornata”. This noble structure was designed by Cosimo Pagliani. It contains a small picture gallery ; one of the works is “Heavenly and Earthly Love” by Guido Rent *Pal. Agostini, a fine Gothic brick structure of the 15th cent., the ground-floor of which is occupied by the Caffe delV Ussero. Loggie de’ Banchi, erected 1605 by Buontalenti for Ferdinand I., is now a corn-exchange. — The handsome Pal . Gambacorti is now the custom-house (dogana). — The Accademia delle belle Arti (Via S. Frediano, No. 972), founded 1812 by Napoleon, under the management of Carlo Lasinio, contains a collection, not yet arranged, of pictures of the earlier Pisan and Florentine schools and others : Madonnas of the school of Benozzo Gozzoli and Filippo Lippi , beautiful *Madonna by Sodoma (formerly in S. Maria della Spina), cartoon by Benozzo of a picture, no longer extant, of the Campo Santo, representing the arrival of the Queen of Sheba at the court of Solomon ; also an old German picture by Rogier van der Weyde etc. Pal. Lanfranchi (now Toscanelli ), attributed to Mich. Angelo, where Lord Byron resided for some time. La Sapienza, the university, not far from the Lung’Arno, is a spacious structure of 1493, extended 1543, with a fine court and a library containing among other curiosities the celebrated to Florence. PISA. 45. Route. 323 Statuto di Pisa , the basis of the ancient constitution. Connected with the university are the Museum of Natural History , founded 159(3, containing specimens especially important in the ornitho- logy and geology of Tuscany, and the * Botanical Garden (both in the Yia S. Maria), one of the oldest in Italy, founded 1544, organized in 1563 by the celebrated Cesalpino , and superseded by the present garden in 1595 under the directions of Giuseppe Benincasa. The Archivio del Duomo (formerly church of S. Felice) con- tains very ancient documents. A repository for the town-archives is now being prepared. Of the ancient Pisa nothing remains except fragments of baths (Bagni di Nerone) near Porta Lucca. The house where they are to be seen is indicated by an inscription. Outside the Porta Nuova, between the Maltraverso Canal and the r. bank of the Arno, about l 1 /^ M. in the direction of the sea, is situated the Cascina 8. Rossore , a farm founded by the Medici, with fine plantations of pines, where 1500 horses, 2000 cows and 150 camels are kept. The latter were imported in 1739 by the Grand-Duke Ferdinand II. from Tunis for the pur- pose of dragging the pine-stems down to the Arno. On the coast, about 3 / 4 M. farther, lies II Gombo, an unpretending sea- bathing place commanding a beautiful view of the mountains of Yiareggio and the Bay of Spezia (omnibus to the baths in summer from the Sotto-Borgo). Here the poet Shelley was drowned, July 7th, 1822 5 his friend Byron afterwards caused his remains to be burned and the ashes deposited near the pyramid of Cestius at Rome. The Monti Pisani , a range of hills to the E., are very picturesque; among them, about 6 M. from the town, in the Valle dei Calci, lies La Certosa, or Carthusian Abbey, a fine structure of the 14th cent. (1367), with church and cloisters, restored in 1814. To the r. above it is La Verruca , a mountain 1765 ft. above the sea-level, crowned with ruins of a castle of the 15th cent, and commanding a most delightful prospect. About 3 M. SAN. of Pisa, on the old post-road to Leghorn, r. of the railway, in the direction of the Arno and opp. to S. Rossore, is situated the ancient basilica of *8. Pietro in Grado , erected before the year 1000, containing beautiful antique 21 * 324 Route 45. NAYACCHIO. From Genoa columns and capitals, occupying the spot, according to tradition, where St. Peter first landed in Italy. It was formerly much frequented as a pilgrimage-church. The faded paintings in the interior are of the 14th cent. The ancient estuary of the Arno, with the harbour of Pisa, must once have been at this spot, before the present coast was formed by alluvial deposits. One of the favourite excursions hence is to the Baths of Pisa , the Bagni di 8. Giuliano (p. 330), which are reached in a few minutes by the Lucca line. The principal promenade of the Pisans is the Lung’ Arno, with its prolongation beyond the Porta alle Spiagge (Passeggiata Nuova), to which numerous walkers resort in the evening. At the W. extremity is the Statue of Ferdinand I., of the school of Giambologna. La Luminara , a grand illumination of the Lung’Arno which takes place every three years on June 17th, is a sight which attracts numerous spectators. The Carnival also takes place here. Most of the shops are in the Lung’Arno and the Sotto-Borgo. The Casino dei Nobili, to which strangers are admitted on being properly introduced, contains a reading-room with Italian, French and other papers. Concerts and balls are given in winter. The railway to Florence traverses a beautiful and fertile district on the 1. bank of the Arno, running parallel to the high road as far as Montelupo. To the 1. are the Monti Pisani with the ruined castle on the Verruca. Stat. Navacchio, then stat. Cascina on the Arno, where on the festival of S. Vittorio, July 28th, 1364, the Pisans sustained a defeat from the Floren- tines (in the vicinity are the hydraulic works employed in drai- ning the Lago di Bientina). Next stat. Pontedera , a small town at the confluence of the Era and Arno, where the road to Volterra diverges and enters the beautiful valley of the Era (diligence 3 times weekly in 6 hrs., fare 5 fr.). Next stations La Rotta, 8. Romano and 8 . Pierino. To the 1. in the distance the chain of the Apennines comes in view; r. on the height is San Miniato dei Tedeschi, a small town, elevated by Emp. Frederick II. in 1226 to the dignity of seat of the imperial governor. Francesco Sforza was born here. The Cathedral, dating from the 10th cent., was remodelled 1488, and decorated with statues in 1775. This town, like those of Fiesole, to Florence. EMPOLI. 45. Route. 325 Colie and Volterra, has the privilege of conferring the rank of nobility by an entry in its “golden book”. Stat. Empoli is a small town in a fertile district. In 1260, after the defeat of the Florentines on the Arbia, the Ghibellines proposed to transfer the seat of government hither and to raze Florence to the ground. This project, however, was strenuously opposed by the heroic Farinata degli Uberti, an incident beau- tifully recorded by Dante in the 10th canto of his Inferno. The town is a busy place with old houses and narrow streets, and a church of 1093, containing good pictures by Giotto, Jac. da Empoli, Gigoli etc., and a fine Baptistery of 1447. A festival, celebrated here on Corpus Christi Day (Fete de Dieu), commemorates the ancient importance of the town. The line hence (S.) to Siena and Orvieto will be continued to Rome ; see Baedeker s Central Italy. The line follows the valley of the Arno, crosses the small river Pesa and reaches Montelupo. The castle (Rocca) of this place, according to the historian Yillani, was fortified by the Florentines in 1203 in order to keep in check the hostile Ca- praja on the opposite side. Hence the appellation Montelupo, “mountain of the wolf”, which was desirous of devouring the goat (capra). On the 1., before Montelupo is reached, the traveller perceives the Villa Ambrogiana, erected by Ferdinand I. on the site of an ancient castle of the Ardinghelli, and surmounted by towers and pinnacles. Beyond Montelupo the line crosses the Arno and slowly winds through the defile of the Qonfolina , through which the Arno flows. The heights are clad with rock- pines, whilst below the pietra serena, a kind of sandstone fre- quently employed in the construction of the palaces of Florence, is quarried. At the extremity of the Gonfolina the line crosses the Ombrone, which falls into the Arno, and traverses a vine-clad district to the old borough of Signa, with its grey towers and pinnacles, founded 1377 by Florentines to command the road at this point. This place, as well as the opp. village of Lastrat is celebrated for its straw-plait. The valley now expands, richly cultivated and resembling one continuous garden. Near stat. S. Donnino is Brozzi, with numerous villas which proclaim the proximity of the capital. The train now approaches the Cascine, the park of Florence, and enters the stat. near S. Maria Novella. Florence see p. 341. 326 46. From Genoa to Pisa (by land) by Spezia. From Genoa to Spezia Corriere daily, starting at 71/2 P- m. and arriving at Spezia at 7 p. m., fare 22 fr. — Diligence to Chiavari, half-way to Spezia, 3 times daily (5 fr.) (office Piazza Carlo Felice)’ The- railway from Genoa to Chiavari will be opened in 1868, and con- tinued thence to Spezia. Omnibus from Chiavari to Spezia in 8 hrs coupe 7, interior 5 fr. 5 one-horse carr. 15-20 fr. (the bargain should fee made with the carriage-proprietor in person). Carriage to Spezia'fin 2 days, for 2 pers. inch food and hotel-expenses, about 100 fr. — Railway from Spezia to Pisa in 23/ 4 hrs. ; fares 7 fr. 50, 6 fr. 10, 4 fr. 65 c. The road skirts the coast the greater part of the way to Chiavari, traversing the Riviera di Levante, which affords views hardly inferior to those on the Riviera di Ponente (p. 123). Near Genoa, it ascends an abrupt height, which affords an admi- rable retrospect of the town and harbour, then descends into the valley of the Besagno and passes S. Martino , Nervi , with lemon- groves and a modem villa, of the brothers Roccd, Bogliasco (*Inn), Recco, where the mountain' is penetrated by a tunnel, and Ra- pallo (Posta), a small seaport with the pilgrimage-church of the Madonna di Montallegro. Here the beautiful Bay of Chiavari or Sestri, with its numerous villas, commences. Chiavari (*Posta, R. l*/ 2 , L. %, A. */ 2 fr.; Fenice) is a small town possessing silk - manufactories , charmingly situated. Beyond it the road passes a succession of picturesque villages. Lavagna, with wharf for small vessels, is the ancestral seat of the Counts Fieschi. Here Sinibaldo de’ Fieschi, professor of law at Bologna, and afterwards elevated to the papal throne as Pope Innocent IV. (1243 — 54), the powerful opponent of Emp. Frederick II., was born. Giov. Luigi de’ Fieschi, well known in history as the conspirator against the power of the Doria family (1547) at Genoa, was also a native of Lavagna. The road follows the coast and leads to Sestri di Levante (Europa), picturesquely situated on a bay which is terminated by a promontory. It then ascends the beautifully wooded mountains in long windings, affording fine retrospects of the peninsula and valley (the village in the latter is Casarza ). Farther on, the village of Bracco becomes visible on the 1.: then to the r. the view is again disclosed of the sea, above which the road leads. The village on the coast below is Moneglia. Then a gradual ascent through a somewhat bleak district to the Osteria Baracca (2100 ft.), whence the road descends into a valley in which the SPEZIA. 46. Route. 327 ■village of Baracca lies. After a slight ascent the road next traverses a well cultivated district to Borghetto (Ville de Milan) in the valley of the impetuous Vara , an affluent of the Magra which falls into the sea near Sarzana and was the ancient frontier between Italy and Liguria, as the Rubicon on the E. formed the frontier of Oaul. The road skirts the broad, gravelly channel of the river for some distance, then diverges 1. and enters a wooded tract, in which beautiful chestnuts predominate. Beyond Baracca the sea does not again come into view, until the last height before Spezia is attained, whence a magnificent prospect of the bay and the precipitous mountains of Carrara is enjoyed. Spezia.- *Groce di Malta ; Ville de Milan (where Garibaldi resided during his captivity after the battle of Aspromonte), R. 3 fr., L. 75., A. 75c. — Of the second cl. Albergo Nazionale, in the principal street, and Gran Bretagna (commercial). — Caf4 Elvetico and Caf6 del Commercio. La Spezia is a small fortress, situated on a beautiful bay, with an important harbour for the Italian fleet. This was the ancient Portus Lunae , the excellence of which was frequently extolled by the Romans. The Etruscan town of Luna fell to decay under the Roman emperors, and was finally destroyed by the Arabians in 1016; its episcopal see was transferred in 1465 to Sarzana. The site of the ancient town is still marked by the ruins of an amphi- theatre and circus on the coast between Sarzana and Avenza. From the town of Luna the district derives its appellation of La Lunigiana. Spezia is much frequented in summer as a sea-bathing place, especially by Italians, but the bath-arrangements are very im- perfect (bath 50 c.). Beautiful walks along the coast, climate mild and vegetation southern. Delightful excursion to Porto Venere on the W. side of the bay (two-horse carr. in V/ i hr. 10 fr. ; boat with one rower 8, with two 10 fr. in 1 V 2 hr.), on the site of the ancient Portus Veneris. A most charming pro- spect is enjoyed from the ruins of a church rising above the sea, and supposed to occupy the site of the former temple of Yenus. The opposite island of Palmaria, with a small fortress, is employed as a penal establishment for brigands. Pleasant ex- cursions may also be made to the E. side of the bay, to the village of Lerici etc. The Railway to Pisa passes through several tunnels and reaches stat. Areola , with conspicuous campanile. Beyond- the next tunnel the bToad Magra is crossed. Then to the 1. 328 Route 46. CARRARA. From Genoa Stat. Sarzana (Rom. Sergiana , or Luna Nova, from its having superseded the ancient Luna] (Quattro Nazioni,- Albergo di Londra), with the picturesque fortification of Sarzanella, constructed by Castruccio CastracanL In 1467 the place fell into the hands of the Florentines under Lorenzo de’ Medici, from whom it was again wrested by Charles VIII. of France; it subsequently be- longed to the Genoese, then to the Sardinians. Sarzana was the birthplace of Pope Nicholas V. (Tommaso Parentucelli, 1447—55), a great patron of learning, and the founder of the library of the Vatican. The Buonaparte family is also said to have been settled in the Lunigiana, near Sarzana, before they transferred their residence to Corsica. The Cathedral, a good example of Italian Gothic, constructed of white marble, was commenced in 1355. The environs are very fertile. Among the mountains to the 1. the white rocks and gorges of the neighbouring marble- quarries are visible. To the r. a fine view of the Bay of Spezia. Next stat. Avenza, a small town on the brook of that name, above which an old castle of Castruccio Castracani, of 1322, with its bold round towers and pinnacles, picturesquely rises. This was formerly the frontier town of the Duchy of Massa. On the coast to the r. is a small harbour for the shipment of the Car- rara marble. Branch Railway from Avenza in 12 min. to Carrara {Locanda Nazionale , with the Trattoria del Oiardinetto , in the principal street on the r., pranzo 2 fr. ; travellers are cautioned not to spend the night here, as the mosquitoes are insufferable). A visit to the celebrated and interesting quarries requires 3 hrs. at least. Guides (Giulia Merli and others) demand 5 fr., but will generally reduce their charge to 2—3 fr. ; for a mere superficial survey their services may be dispensed with. From the stat. to the principal street, passing the theatre, is a walk of 40 min. ; hence to the Piazza (with the Cafe Elvetico), and an ascent r. to the Accademia, in front of which the street to the 1. must be followed (r. outside the gate is a brewery, property of a Swiss). The road now skirts the brook Torano , passing a succession of marble works, and passes the village of that name. On either side of the valley are the old mines, recognisable by the broad heaps of rubbish. The blocks are detached, drawn out by oxen, and rolled down the hill. The finer description is termed marmo statuario. About 400 mines with 6000 workmen are at present in operation. The hours of labour are from 5 a. m. to 2 or 3p. m.; the forenoon is therefore the best time for a visit (a supply of copper coins should not be forgotten). A horn is blown as a signal when the rock is about to be blasted. The mines of Monte Crestola and M. Sagro yield the best and largest blocks. The mines of Fantiscritti, 3 M. from to Pisa. MASSA. 46. Route. 329 Carrara, were worked by the ancient Romans. The Academy at Carrara contains several Rom. antiquities found in this neighbourhood, e. g. a *hasrelief of Jupiter with Bacchus etc. The town of Carrara contains numerous studios of sculptors ( Lazzenm , Franchi Fellicia , Bonanni etc.), some of which should he visited. Most of the inhabitants obtain their livelihood by working the marble. The following churches should also be inspected: S. Andrea , in a half Germanic style of the 13th cent., like the cathe- dral of Monza, possesses an interesting facade and good sculptures. Madonna delle Grazie, with sumptuous decorations in marble. The Accademia delle Belle Arti contains a great number of copies from antiques, as well as works by sculptors of Carrara. Beyond Avenza the line next reaches ■ Stat. Massa (Quattro Nazioni), formerly capital of the Duchy of Massa-Carrara, with 10,000 inhab., pleasantly situated, sur- rounded by mountains. The Palace was once occupied by Na- poleon’s sister Elisa Bacciochi (Duchess of Massa-Carrara). The marble- quarries here are very valuable, rivalling those of Carrara. The train traverses a fertile, well cultivated tract. L. the picturesque ruins of the old castle of Montignoso , on an abrupt height, soon become visible. Then stat. Queceta ; about 3 M. to the 1. lies the village of Serravezza , with marble-quarries, a place frequented as a summer-residence. Pietrasanta (TJnione, outside the gate towards Massa; Eu- ropa ), a small town surrounded by ancient walls, beautifully situated among gentle slopes, was besieged and taken in 1482 by the Florentines under Lorenzo de’ Medeci. The following churches deserve notice: S. Martino (II Duomo) , commenced in the 13th cent., was altered and extended at various periods down to the 16th cent. Ancient font in the Battisterio. Bronzes by Donatello. Campanile of 1380. Agostino, an unfinished Gothic structure of the 14th cent., contains a painting by Taddeo Zacchia, of 1519, and a fine altar by Staggi. The pinnacled Town Hall is situated in the Piazza, between these two churches. — Mines of quicksilver are worked in the vicinity. Near stat. Viareggio (Albergo del Commercio), a small town on the coast, with sea-baths, the line enters the marshy plain of the Serchio , crosses the river beyond stat. Torre di Lago and soon reaches the station of Pisa (p. 312). Railway from Pisa to Leghorn see p. 312; from Pisa to Florence by Empoli see p. 324; to Lucca and Pistoja see below. 330 47. From Pisa to Florence by Lucca and Pistoja. Railway in 4 hrs. ; fares 7fr. 80 c., 6 fr. 40 c., 5 fr. The line intersects the fertile plain between the Amo and Serchio. First stat. Bagni di San Giuliano, at the base of the Monti Pisani, known to the ancients as Aquae Calidae Pisanorum CPlin. Hist. Nat. II., 103). 'll Pozzetto is the warmest spring (104° Fahr.), Bagno degli Ebrei the coldest (82°). Twelve dif- ferent baths are distinguished by the names of heathen divi- nities; there is also a bath for the poor, as well as the usual adjuncts of a watering-place. Many Rom. antiquities have been found here. At the following stat. Rigoli the line approaches the Serchio, the 1. bank of which it traverses as far as the next stat. Ripa - fratto. It then describes a complete semicircle round the beau- tifully formed Monte S. Giuliano , which, as Dante says (Inferno, 33, 30), prevents the two towns of Pisa and Lucca from seeing each other. Lucca (* Croce di Malta; *L’Vniverso ; Della Corona, an un- pretending trattoria in the Via di Poggio, opp. the facade of 8. Michele), with 22,500 inhab., formerly capital of the duchy of that name, is an antiquated place, with well-preserved forti- fications, situated in a fertile plain. A *Walk round the ram- parts affords a succession of charming views of the town itself and the beautiful mountains around it. The sea is 9 M. distant. In the grounds on the N. side stands the monument of Charles III. of Spain, erected by his granddaughter the Duchess Marie Louise, in 1822. (Near it the Caffe di Marte). The foundation of Lucca (Greek and Roman Luca ) belongs to a very remote period. It first appertained to Liguria, afterwards to Etruria; under the Romans it subsequently became an important municipium. Here, in B. C. 56, Julius Caesar , at that period governor of Gaul, held a conference with Pompey and Crassus, with whom he had been associated since B. C. 60 in order to discuss a plan for the administration of the vast Roman empire for the ensuing five years. The splendour of Lucca at that period is still indicated by the remains of the Roman * Amphitheatre near S. Frediano. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Lucca belonged successively to the Goths, Lombards and Franks, then became a duchy, and in the 12th cent, a republic. The feuds of the Guelphs and Ghibellines impaired the strength of the place so seriously that in 1314 it was compelled to succumb to Uguccione della Faggiuola of Arezzo, the warlike governor of Pisa, who is believed by some to be the deliverer promised to Italy by Dante (Inferno, I., 102). The poet resided with his friend Uguccione at Lucca in 1314, and LUCCA. 47. Route. 331 there became enamoured of the youthful Gentucca (Purgatorio 24 23), hut he does not describe the inhabitants in very flattering terms (Inferno 21, 41). After the expulsion of Uguccione, Lucca fell in 1325 into the hands of the powerful Castruccio Castrani degli Interminetti of Lucca who was also master of Pisa and Pistoja. On Sept. 23rd, 1325 he defeated^ Florentines at Altopascio and in 1327 was nominated imperial governor of Tuscany by Emp. Lewis the Bavarian. On his death in 1328 the power of Lucca de- clined; its next master was Martino della Scala; it subsequently came into the possession of Pisa, but in 1369 purchased its own freedom from Charles IV for 300,000 fl. and remained independent till the invasion of the French in 1799. In 1805 Napoleon gave Lucca as a principality to his sister Elisa BacciocM ; in 1814 it came into the possession of the dukes of Parma of the house of Bourbon, who in 1847 ceded it to Tuscany.. The greatest artist of whom Lucca boasts is Matteo Civitali (1440), whose prin- cipal works are in the cathedral. The town is well built, and possesses numerous churches and handsome buildings interesting to the architect. At the same time it contains a considerable number of good sculptures and paintings, valuable in the history of art. At the commencement of the 14th cent., Lucca was the only place in Italy where silk was produced and manufactured. This branch of industry had been imported from Sicily, whither the Normans had brought it from Greece. The silk-culture of Lucca is still considera- ble, but a number of other manufactories now flourish here, which have procured for the town the name of Lucca l In- dustriosa. The finest of the squares is the *Piazza Maggiore (Napoleone), with the Palazzo Pubblico, where in 1843 a handsome * Monument was erected to the Duchess Marie Louise, in recognition of the service rendered by her to the town by the erection (1823 — 32) of an aqueduct (worthy of inspection) of 459 arches. — The Palazzo Pubblico , formerly Ducale , commenced 1578 from designs by Ammanati, but still incomplete, contains a small, but choice * Collection of Pictures, most of them modern, by Michele Ridolfi (of Lucca, d. 1853), Nocchi (Aurora), Giovanetti , Camuccini etc. The *Piazza S. Martino , or del Duomo , and the Piazza S. Michele, with the Palazzo Pretorio (Post-Office), in the style of the 16th cent., and the statue of Burlamacchi (d. 1548), by Cambi, erected 1863. The *Piazza del Mercato , with remains of a Roman Amphi- theatre, consisting of two series of arcades each of 54 arches; 332 Route 47. LUCCA. From Pisa the lowest rows of seats are covered with rubbish. Remnants of an ancient theatre are also shown near the church of 8. Maria di Corte Landini. The most ancient church is that of *8. Frediano (St. Frigidianus), a basilica of the 7th cent., on the N. side of the town, founded by the Lombard kings Bertharin and Cunibert, in honour of an Irish saint of that name, who was bishop of Lucca in 560—78. The present facade was erected in the 12th cent, on the site of the former apse; the Ascension in mosaic with which it is adorned was restored 1827. The nave is supported by 22 antique columns. The * Cappella di S. Agostino (2nd to the 1.) contains two old ^frescoes by Armco Aspertmi , pupil of Francia, judiciously retouched by Michele Ridolfi. Above is God the Father, surrounded by angels, prophets and sibyls ; in the lunette to the 1. the Entombment ; below it, to the 1., an image of Christ found in the sea ( Volto Santo), • drawn by two oxen-, r. St Augustine, baptized by St. Ambrosius at Milan. In the lunette on the wall on the r. St. Augustine instructing his pupils, and presenting them with the rules of his order; beneath, to the 1., the Nativity and Adoration of the Magi; r. the miracles of S. Frediano, who checks an inundation of the sea. — In the Cappella del S. Sagramento (4th to the 1.) an altar with reliefs by Jacopo della Quercia ( 1422), a Madonna with four saints. — Over the altar to the r. behind the pulpit is the Coronation of Mary ; below are king David and Solomon. St. Anselm and St. Augustine, by Francesco Francia (covered). At the foot of the picture are four scenes from the history of the Augustine Order. — The last chapel but one ore the r. contains the tomb of St. Zita, the patroness of Lucca, mentioned by Dante (Inferno 21, 28); in the church, in front of the chapel, the ancient font, with unexplained representations by Magister Robertas (1151). *S. Martino , or II Duomo , near the Piazza Grande , erected 1060 — 70 by Anselmo Badagio of Milan, Bishop of Lucca and subsequently Pope Alexander III. (1061—73), in the finest round-arch style, possesses a facade with rich sculptures by Guidetto (1204) and in the vestibule sculptures of somewhat later date from the history of St. Martin. Over the small door on the r., is St. Regulus, 1. descent from the Cross by Nicola Pisano (1233). The interior, in the form of a Latin cross, with nave and aisles 136 paces in length, transept 70 and nave 44 paces in width, is strikingly impressive. One pointed arch only is observed, which was added to the round arches in 1308. The stained glass in the side windows is modern, those in the choir by Pandolfo di Ugolino da Pisa. Services of the custodian unnecessary, except to show the pictures which are covered. 1st Altar on the r.. Nativity by Passignano ; 2nd, Adoration of the Magi, F.Zucchero; 3rd, Last Supper, Tintoretto; 4th, Crucifixion, Passignano; 5th, Resurrection, Michele to Florence. LUCCA. 47. Route. 333 Mdolfi (1836). Pulpit by Matteo Civitali (1498). In the sacristy a Madonna with' SS Clement, Peter, Paul and Sebastian, by Bom. Ghirlandajo. *La Croce dei Pisani , beautifully executed in 1350 by Bettuccio Baroni, in silver, -gilded, originally belonged to the Pisans, but was carried off by the in- habitants of Lucca (not shown except by special request). The S. transept contains the beautiful marble ^monument of Pietro da Nocetto, secretary of Pope Nicholas V., by Matteo Civitali (1472); by the same master, on the wall to the r., is the portrait of Count Domenico Bertini (1479); also in the Cappella del Sagramento (1st Chapel r. of the choir) two angels in an attitude^ of adoration and the altar of St. Regulus (2nd Chapel r. of the choir), with St. Sebastian and John the Baptist. The first Chapel 1. of the choir contains the “Altar of Liberty”, which Lucca recovered in 1369 from Emp. Charles IV. (inscription: Christo liberatori atque divis tute- lar ibus), with. a Resurrection by Giambologna (1579). On the wall St. Petro- Rem .Ma- donna; 1111. Mantegna, Altar-piece representing the Adoration ot the Magi the Circumcision and the Resurrection; 1112. A. del ^ Madonna with SS John and Francis; 1110. Orazio Alfani, Holy Family; 1109. Domemchmo, Cardinal Agucchia; 1107. Damele da Volterr a , Massacre of the Innocents; *1108 Titian, Venus; 1106. G, Lanfranchi, St. Peter; 1105. Spagnoletto St. Je- rome ; 1105. Schidone, Holy Family. Over the door: 1145. LodCaraca, Rebecca and Eleazar; 1145. Lucas. of Leyden, Crucified Christ ;'1144. Gmho Romano, Madonna; *1141 . A. Diirer, Adoration of the Magi; 1142. Cranach , Adam; *1139 Michael Angelo, Holy Family; 1140. Rubens, Venus and Mi- nerva contending for a youth; 1137. Guercino, Endymion; 1138. Cranach, Eve; *1134. Correggio, Madonna; 1135. Luini, Herodias with the head of the Baptist; 1136. Paolo Veronese, Holy Family. The door 1. (when approached from the corridor) leads from the Tribune to the Tuscan School. 1st Saloon: 1146. Lor. di Credi, Annunciation; 1147 . Andrea del Sarto, Portrait of himself; 1152. Fra Bartolommeo , God the Father; *1159. Leo- nardo da Vinci (?), Head of the Medusa; *1161. Fra Bartolommeo, Nativity and Circumcision of Christ; 1163. Lor. di Credi, Portrait of Verocchio ; 1167. Masaccio, Portrait of an old man; 1179. Fra Filippo Lippi, St- Augus- tine- 1184 Fra Angelico , Death of the Virgin. — 2nd Saloon: 1252. Leo- nardo da Vinci, Adoration of the Magi (unfinished); 1257. Filippino Lippi, Adoration of the Magi, with portraits of the Medici; *1259. Alhertinellx , Visit of Mary to Elisabeth; *1265. Fra Bartolommeo , Virgin with the pro- tecting saint of Florence (in chiaroscuro); 1268. Filippino Lippi, Madonna with saints; 1271. Bronzino, Christ in Hades; 1275. Ridolfo del Ghirlandajo, St. Zenobius, bishop of Florence, resuscitating a dead man; 1277. Same master, Transference of the remains of St. Zenobius to the cathedral ; *1279. Sodoma , St. Sebastian; 1284*. Pontorm,o, Venus (designed by Mi- chael Angelo). Saloon of the Ancient Master s. Pictures by Alessandro Botticelli, Lorenzo di Credi, Beato Angelico (*Coro- nation of the Virgin), Luca Signorelli (*Holy Family), Domenico del Ghirlan- dajo, Benozzo Gozzoli, Fra Filippo Lippi etc. The visitor now returns through the Tribune to the Venetian and Lombard School. R 1043. Massari, Madonna; 1064. Canaletto , Palace of the Doges at Venice; 1068. P. Veronese, Head as a study; 1074. Francesco Solimena, Diana and Calisto ; 1077. Canaletto , The Grand Canal at Venice; OR Baedeker. Italy 1. 354 Route 48. FLORENCE. Gal. degli Vffizi. 1094. Albano, Rape of Europa ; 990. Albano , Venus with Cupids-, 995. Dosso Dossi, Murder of the Innocents; 998. Guido Rent , Madonna with Jesus and John; 1000. P. Veronese , Madonna; 1002. Titian , Madonna; 1003. and 1001. Salvator Rosa, Landscapes; 1007. A. Caracci, Madonna; 1011. Cignani , Madonna; 1012. Salvator Rosa, Landscape ; 1016. Correggio, Head as a study ; 1019. Palma Vecehio , Madonna; 1031. Caravaggio , Head of the Medusa; 1037. Palma Vecchio , Jesus at Emmaus. Dutch School. R. *922. Rembrandt , Interior of a house; 926. Gerard Dow , Applf*- woman ; 934. Schalken , Seamstress ; 941. F. Mieris , Woman asleep ; 952 .Mieris, Wooing; 954. Mieris, The drinkers; 955. Brouwer, Tavern-scene; 958. Terburg , Lady drinking; 960. Paulyn, Miser; 965. Herriskerk, Card- players; 968. Schalken, Piet.as ; *972. Metzu, Lady and hunter; 976. F. Mieris. Portrait of himself; 977. Jan Steen, Violin-player; 979. Rembrandt, Land- scape; *978. Ostade, Man with a lantern; *882. Ruisdael, Landscape with cloudy sky; 888. SMngelandj Children blowing soap-bubbles ; 854. Mieris, Quack; 891. Heyden, Town-hall of Amsterdam; *897. Berkeyden , Cathedral of Haarlem. F lemish and German Schools. 1st Saloon: r. *812. Rubens, Venus and Adonis; 810. Rubens, Silenus; 838. Cranach , Luther; 839. Holbein, Portrait; 845. Cranach, Electors John and Frederick of Saxony ; 847. Cranach, Luther and Melanchthon ; 848. Claude Lorrain, Sea-landscape with the Villa Medici at Rome; 777 Dilrer, St. James the Great; 783. Van Dyck , Madonna; 784. Holbein, Zwingli; *786. G. Dow, Schoolmaster; 799. Holbein, Sir Thomas More; 800. Schalken, Girl with a candle. — In the 2nd S a 1 o o n eight pictures from the lives of SS. Peter and Paul , by Johann Schauffelin of Nuremberg. R. 744. Nic-. Frumenti (German School), Tabernacle with the Raising of Lazarus; 742. D. Te- niers senr., Alchymist; 706. Teniers junr., St. Peter weeping; 745. Teniers senr., Physician; *703. Memling, Madonna; 700. Teniers junr.. Love-scene; Van der Goos, Madonna. French School. This saloon contains numerous battle-pieces, by Bourguignon and others, and a beautifully inlaid table. R. 679. and 689. Portraits of the poet Vittorio Alfieri and the Countess of Albany (b. 1763, d. at Flo- rence 1824), by Fabre de Montpellier , with two autographs by Alfieri on the back; 693. Poussin, Venus and Adonis (a sketch); 674. Larguillihre, Rousseau; 672. Grimoux, Young pilgrim; 667. Clouet , Francis I. on horseback. Then to the 1. in the corridor is the Cabinet of the Gems (generally closed since a theft committed in 1860; application should be made to one of the custodians). This saloon contains for columns of oriental alabaster and four of verde antico ; in the six cabinets are pre- served upwards of 400 gems and precious stones, once the property of the Medici. In the 1st cabinet on the r. a vessel of lapis lazuli; two bas- reliefs in gold on a ground of jaspar, by Giovanni da Bologna. 2nd: Two vessels of onyx; casket of rock-crystal with representation from the life of Christ, executed by Valerio Belli for Pope Clement VII.; *portrait FLORENCE, 48. Route 355 Gal. degli Uffhi. of the grand-duke Cosimo III., in Florentine mosaic, of 1619; two wses of rock-crystal with bas-reliefs in gold, . by Giovanni da Bologna, ird Cover of a crystal vase, in enamelled gold, executed for Diana of Poitiers. 4th Venus and Cupid in porphyry. 5th: Basrelief of gold and jewels, representing the Piazza della Signoria, by Giovanni da Bologna. 6. h : Vase ol rock-crystal, by Benvenuto Cellini. The glass-cabinets by the window contain golden trinkets of ancient Etruscan workmanship. Two Saloons of the Venetian School. 1 st Saloon- r. 576. Titian, Portrait of Sansovino; 581. Giov. Bellini, Piet l W Paolo Veronese, Martyrdom of St. Justina; 588. Titian, Madonna; Zl'b Veronese. Esther ’in presence surnamed Bassano , Portraits of the painter s family ; 597 6 )5^ T , Portraits of the Duke and Duchess of Urbmo. - 2nd S «on r 609. Titian , Battle between Venetians and Imperial troops, 613^ /> Bordone, Portrait; 614. Titian, Giovanni de’ Medici (father of Cosi “° ’ 616. Pordenone, Paul struck by lightning; 617. Tintoretto, Marriage of Cana (a copy); *618. Titian, Madonna (a study); *622. Giorgione Maltese mg ^ 623 .Palma Vecchio, Madonna; 625. Titian, Madonna; **626. Titian, Flora ; 628. Bonifazio, Last Supper ; 633. Titian , Madonna ; *636. P. eronese, ruci x , 638 Tintoretto , Sansovino ; *648. Titian, Catharina Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus. Corridor with Sculptures of the Tuscan School Five bas-reliefs in marble representing the history of St. Giovanni ■ n o npar Florence, by Benedetto det Gualberto, of the monastery of S. Salvi near Violence * * Ten Rooezzano. Tomb-relief of the wife of Fr. Tornabuoni, by bas-reliefs with singing choristers, by Luca della Robb,a originally destine to embellish the organ in the cathedral. Another, but interior rein et lan- cing children, by Donatello, was executed for the same purpose. Fides by Malteo Civitali. Virgin (unfinished). Beyond this is the Office of the Director; also the Collection of Coins, accessible by special permission only. Etruscan Museum , Drawings, Passage to the Pitti Palace. A stair descends to the 1st Saloon, containing painted vases, most of them found in Tuscany, a few from S. Italy. In the centre is the cele- brated *Frangois Base, so called from a Frenchman oi that name who discovered it in a tomb near Chiusi in 1845, and unrivalled in size and richness of decoration (marriage of Peleus, Calydoman hunt, e ur Theseus from Crete, Battle of the centaurs etc.), and bearing ancient Greek inscriptions attached to the different representations, beneath which are the names of the artists Clitias and Ergotimos. The vases exhibited in the cabinets by the walls are less important. - 2n d Saloon: Vases destined for religious and domestic purposes, of many different forms but without representations; also a few terracottas. — A stair descends ence to a long Corridor which leads over the Ponte Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti a walk of nearly 10 min. Here a number of Etruscan cinerary urns, with representations in relief and inscriptions, are preserved Also an admirable collection of * Drawings , founded by Cardinal Leopold de Medici, and afterwards considerably extended, so that it now comprises about og 000 All those which are exposed to view are furnished with the ? 23 * 356 Route 48. FLORENCE. Gal. degli Ufflzi. names of the masters. Very interesting those of (1.) Diirer and Rubens (r.) Fra Bartolommeo , ^Raphael, Michael Angelo and del Sarto. — Then a number of portraits of the Medicfi in tapestry-work. Two Saloons of the Painters. ^ The first contains a large *Marble Vase of Greek workmanship, known as The Medicean Vase”, with sculpturing representing the Sacrifice of Iphi- gema. The walls are covered with portraits of the most celebrated pain- ters of all nations from the 15th cent, to the present time, painted by themselves and furnished with the names and dates of their birth and death. The 1st Saloon contains the old masters-, on the r wall and half of the 1. are those of -Central Italy, on the other walls those of lta1 ^ on the side by Which the room is entered those of foreign coun- tries. The most celebrated names here are *Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael Michael Angelo , Pietro Perugino , Andrea del Sarto', Masaccio (or Filippino Lippi?), Giulio Romano ; Venetian School, Titian , Paolo Veronese , Tintoretto , Palma Vecchio; Bolognese School, the Two Caracci , Guercino, 'Guido Reni. Also * Albert Durer, Lucas van Leyden , Holbein , Rubens , Van Dyclc , Rembrandt , Gerard Dow. In the 2nd Saloon Angelica Kaufmann, Mad. le Brim, Raphael Mengs, Reynolds , Overbeck ~ Canova. Cabinet of Inscriptions. The walls are covered with a number of ancient Greek and Latin inscriptions, most of them from Rome, arranged in 12 classes according to their subjects (the gods and their priests, the consuls, dramas, military events, private affairs etc.). There are also some fine Statues-'' •2b8. Bacchus and Ampelus; *263. Mercury, *266. Venus Urania; *265 Venus Genetnx; 264. Priestess (head new). L. of the egress an interesting relief representing the Elements. Also a number of cinerary urns and busts with (sometimes fictitious) inscriptions. Cabinet of the Hermaphro dites. *306. Hermaphrodite reclining on a panther's skin. . On either side of the door, 307. and 315. torsos of Bacchus, one of basalt, the other of Parian marble; 308. Ganymede with the eagle; .311. Pan with hermaphro- o™ eS ’ b ° th restored by Benvenuto Cellini; *318. Head of Alexander; • Brutus, by Michael Angelo (unfinished, the reason for which is stated >y a distich beneath). Above the latter the mask of a satyr, Michael Angelo s first work. A door in this cabinet leads to the (generally closed) Cabinet of the Cameos. -Tin ^ CaS6S 1st— ' 4111 CQntain the antique cameos, 5th— 6th the modern; i tli 10th the ancient cut stones, 11th and 12th the modern. In the 1st case a cameo, with the *Sacrifice of Antoninus Pius, is remarkable for its size ; Cupid riding on a lion, with the name of the artist (Protarchos) Among the modern cameos in the 12th case is one with a portrait of Savonarola. Also a number of works in Niello (engraving on silver), e. g. Coronation of the Virgin by Maso Finiguerra; also in ivory. A collection of majolicas from the celebrated manufactory of Urbino , formerly the property of the della Rovere family and preserved here, is now at the Bargello (p. 363). Gal. degli TJffizi. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 357 Sa l o oil. of Baroccio , Bv the walls and in the centre four tables of Florentine mosaics. That in the centre, executed 1613-18 by Jacopo Autelli, from Ligozzo's design alone cost 40,000 ducats (nearly 20,000 l.). The following pictures are the most interesting: r. 154. Bronzino, Portrait; 157. Honthorst infant Jesus adored by angels; 158. Bronzino, Descent from the Cross; -162. Guido Reni Sibyl; *169. Baroccio , The Virgin interceding with the Saviour (.Ma- donna del Popolo;) 171. A. Caracci , Industrious ape; *180. Helena Forman his second wife; 186 . Carlo Dot*, Magdalene; 187. Sustermans, Galileo; *190. Honthorst, Adoration of the Shepherds; *191. Sassoferrato, Madonna dei Dolori; 195 .Caravaggio, The tribute money; 196- Van Bye* Margaret of Lorraine ; 197. Rubens , Elisabeth Brand, his first wite ; 203. Guido Reni Bradamante and Fiordaspina (from Ariosto’s Orlando Furioso) ; 208. 'Baroccio , St Francis receiving the stigmata; 210. Velasquez , Philip I\ of Spain on horseback ; *216. Rubens , Bacchanalian. *Saloon of Niobe, constructed 1779, and so named from the far-famed ancient group of the *Children of Niobe, seven sons and seven daughters (slam by Apollo and Diana), whose position indicates that they once adorned the pediment of a temple (probably of Apollo), the unfortunate mother occupying the centre of the group, with her slain and expiring children on either side. These statues, which appear to have been copied from a work by Scopus or Praxiteles , were found at Rome in 1583 and placed by Cardinal Ferdi- nand de’ Medici in his villa on the Monte Pincio (now the property of the French Academy), whence they were subsequently transferred to Florence, Various opinions prevail with regard to the proper arrangement Of the group. Among the paintings are: r. 139. Van Dyck, Rubens 1 Mother (?); 142 Snyders , Boar-hunt; 146. Rubens , Henri IV. at the battle of Ivry; 147! Rubens, Entry of Henri IV. into Paris ; 148. Honthorst, Supper; 152. Hont- horst , Fortune-teller. The following apartments are at present undergoing restoration and re-arrangement, the collection of the modern bronzes having been trans- ferred to the Bargello (p. 363), and that of the drawings to the connecting passage (p. -355). These collections, which were formerly here, are to be replaced by Etruscan antiquities. Two Cabinets of Ancient Bronzes. The 1st Cabinet contains in the centre a *Bronze Statuette of a youth (“L’ Idolino”), found at Pesaro, with handsome (modern) pedestal The cases by the walls contain a number of small bronzes, some of them statuettes, others articles of domestic use, candelabra, lamps, metal mir rors, helmets, spurs, horse-bits etc.; also Christian antieaglias (diptychon of the consul Basilius). In the 2nd Cabinet, by the wall four bronze heads, found in the sea near Leghorn, among them, on the 1. wall, Sopho- cles and Homer; *423. Life-size statue (“Orator”), with Etruscan inscrip- tion, found near the Trasimene Lake; 425. Minerva, found near Arezzo ; 427. Chimera (as described by Homer in the 6th Bk. of the Iliad: a lion and goat, with tail of a serpent), found at Arezzo, in front of it a tripod ; colossal horse’s head; several inscriptions on bronze tablets. 358 Route 48. FLORENCE. Bibl. Nazionale. The first floor of the edifice contains the Biblioteca Na- zionale (open daily except on Sundays and festivals, in summer 9—5, in winter 9 — 4 o’clock, entrance by the 8th door from the piazza), which has been formed since 1860 by the union of the grand-ducal library, formerly in the Pitti Palace, and the still more extensive Biblioteca Magliabecchiana. The latter, founded by Antonio Magliabecchi . a jeweller of Florence, has been dedi- cated to the use of the public since 1747. The present library contains about 200,000 vols and 8000 MSS., comprising the most important works from the literature of other nations. There are also several very rare impressions; the first printed Homer, Florence 1488; Cicero ad Familiares, Venice 1469; Dante, Flo- rence 1481. Every facility i$ afforded for the use of the library; to the r. at the end of the great reading-saloon is the room con- taining the catalogues. — The staircase to the r. of the library leads to the *Central- Archives of the state, arranged by Bonaini , one of the most imposing collections of this description. Some of the apartments here are fitted up for the sessions of the Italian senate. Quitting the TJffizi, the stranger should now cross the Piazza della Signoria, and turning to the 1., proceed by the handsome Via dei Calzajoli towards the Piazza del Duorno. To the 1. on the way thither is the church of *Or San Mi ehele (PI. 31), the square form of which still proves its origin from a corn-hall (Horreum Santi Michaelis ) erected by Arnolfo in 1284, and converted into a church at the expense of the guild of weavers by Taddeo Oaddi in 1337, and Andrea Orcagna in 1343. The structure is in the Gothic style, richly adorned inter- nally and externally with sculptures, which have been skifully restored. On the E. side, towards the Via Calzajoli, (r.) St. Luke, by Giovanni da Bologna ; Christ and St.' Thomas, by Andrea del Verrocchio. (1.) John the Baptist, by Ghiberti; beneath, eagles on bales of wool. Then, as the spectator proceeds farther 1., on the S. side (r.) St. John, by Baccio da Montelupo. The adja- cent canopy formerly protected a Madonna by Mino da Fiesole, now in the interior of the church (p. 359). (1.) St. James by Nanni d’ Antonio di Banco. St. Mark, by Donatello. On the W. facade statues of (r.) St. Eligius , by Nanni di Banco , be- neath it a relief with a farrier; St. Stephen, by Lorenzo Ghiberti ; Bigallo. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 359 (1 ) St Matthew, by the same master, or periiaps by Michelozzo. On the N. side (r.) St. George by Donatello. Four saints by Nanni di Banco , with relief representing a sculptor’s studio. (1.). St. Philip by the same. St. Peter, by Donatello. The coloured bas-reliefs below the niches are by Luca della Robbia. In the Interior the fine *High Altar (Tabernacle) is by Andrea Orcagna , executed in marble and precious stones, with numerous reliefs from sacred history ; beneath it is preserved the miracle working image of the Virgin. At the side-altar under the organ a marble group of the Holy Family, by Francesco da S. Qallo ; over the following altar a Madonna and Child, by Mino da Fiesole (formerly in a niche on the exterior of the church). Opposite the church (on the r.) is the Oratorium of S. Carlo Borromeo (PI. 6), constructed 1284 by Arnolfo, but considerably altered in 1616. The Via dei Calzajoli (to which the old Via dei Pittori and the Corso degli Adimari formerly belonged), before its extension, contained the ancient towers of the Adimari . , Medici and Visdo- mini. The stranger next reaches the (r.) entrance to the Bazaar (PI. 40), and passes a number of attractive shops, well frequen- ted caftfs etc. The Piazza di S. Giovanni is next reached, and adjacent to it the Piazza del Duomo , formerly of very limited extent, but recently enlarged in the neighbourhood of the campanile. Here (1.) is situated the *Bigallo (PL 45), an oratorium at the corner of the Via Calzajoli, an edifice erected in E248 for charitable purposes, now an orphan-asylum. Over the arcades (N.) are three statues (Virgin, St. DominiCus and another saint), by Andrea or Nicola Pisano , and two almost obliterated fres- coes from the legend of St. Peter the Martyr. The chapel, now archives of the orphan asylum, contains a Madonna by Alberto Arnoldini , 1363. The neighbouring *Church of the Misericordia (Pl. 27), founded 1244, belongs to the long established order of brothers of charity, who, garbed in their black robes, with cowls covering the head and leaving apertures for the eyes only, are frequently encountered in the streets whilst engaged in their missions of mercy. It contains a Madonna by Andrea del Sarto , and other pictures, amongst them the Plague of 1348 by Lodovico da Cigoli. 360 Route 48. FLORENCE. Battisterio. Opposite the campanile is the Canonry (Casa dei Canonici), erected 1827 by Gaetano Baccani , with the statues of Arnolfo di Cambio , constructor of the cathedral, and Filippo Brunelleschi , both by Luigi Pampaloni (1830 ). In one of the following houses’ (No. 29) is immured the Sasso di Dante, a stone on which the great poet is said to have been wont to sit on summer evenings,' HI Battisterio , or Church of St. John the Baptist , one of the most ancient structures in the city, was originally erected in the 6th cent, on the site of a Roman temple (probably that of Mars), and subsequently renewed at various periods, e. g. in 1293 by Arnolfo , and externally covered with marble. Until 1128 this octagonal sanctuary served as a cathedral, after which it was converted into a baptistery, and in the 14th and 15th cent, was furnished with its three celebrated *■ Bronze Doors. The oldest of these is on the S. side, opposite the Bigallo, completed hy Andrea Pisano in 1380 after 22 years of labour. The representations are from the life of St. John. The bronze decorations at the sides are by Lorenzo Ghiberti and his son Vittorio (about 1446); above is the Behea ding of John the Baptist by Vincenzo Danti. The ’"Second Door, towards the cathedral, executed by Lorenzo Ghiberti (1428—42) is a marvel of art, representing ten different scenes from scripture history: 1. Creation; 2. Expulsion from Paradise; 3. Noah after the Flood; 4. Abraham’s Sacrifice; 5. Esau and Jacob; 6. Joseph and his brethren; 7. Promulgation of the Law on Mt. Sinai ; 8. The Walls of Jericho; 9. Battle against the Ammonites; 10. The Queen of Sheba, This is the door which Michael Angelo pronounced worthy of forming the entrance to Paradise. The bronze decorations at the sides are also by Ghiberti; over the door the ^Baptism of Christ, by Andrea Sansovino the angels by Spinacci. The two porphyry columns were presented by the Pisans (in 1200) in recognition of the assistance rendered them by the Flo- rentines against Lucca in the expedition to Majorca in 1117. The chain of the harbour of Pisa, carried off by the Florentines in 1362, was for- merly suspended here, but has been recently restored to the Pisans and is preserved in the Campo Santo. The Third Door (N.) is also by Ghiberti (1403-27). It represents m 28 sections the history of Christ, the Apostles and Fathers down to St. Augustine. Many rival artists are said to have competed for the ho- nour of undertaking this work, of whom the principal were Ghiberti Bru- nellesco, Jacopo della Fonte, Simone da Colie , and probably also Donatello , but the preference was given to Ghiberti. By the door the Preaching of St. John by rr. Rustici (supposed te have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci). lu the interior of the baptistery are a number of statues and pictures of subordinate importance. The dome and small choirs are adorned with old ^mosaics by Andrea Tafi, Apollonio Greco , Jacopo da Turrita, Domenico Ghirlandajo , Taddeo and Angelico Cathedral. FLORENCE. d8. Route . 361 Gaddi, Alessio Baldovinetti , Lippo Lippi etc., which however are not recognisable except on very bright days. On the pave- ment ancient mosaics with the zodiac and inscriptions. R. of the high altar the tomb of Pope John XXIII. (d. 1419), who was deposed by the Council of Constance. On the festival ot St. John an altar of massive silver with a cross of the same metal are placed here, adorned with bas-reliefs from the life of the Baptist, by Maso Finiguerra , Antonio da Pollajuolo, Maestro done, Verrocchio and others. The altar contains 325 lbs. of silver, the cross 141 lbs. In front of the church is a column of speckled marble (cipollino), erected in 1330 to commemorate the removal of the remains of St. Zenobius. The ^Cathedral (PI. 8), II Duomo, or La Cattedrale di S. Maria del Fiore, so called from the lily which figures in the arms of Florence, was erected 1298—1474 on the site of the earlier clmrch of St. Reparata by Arnolfo di Cambio, Giotto, Taddeo Gaddi, Andrea Orcagna and Lorenzo di Filippo. The dome was added 1421 — 36 by Filippo Brunelleschi; its height (280 ft., with the lantern 333 ft.) exceeds that of the domes of St. Peter and the Pantheon at Rome, and the ascent is strongly recommended. The church, a grand example of Italian Gothic, 522 ft. in length, 320 ft. (across the transepts) in breadth, is one of the most admired in Italy. The facade had already been commenced by Arnolfo, but his successor Giotto designed a new and more imposing plan (of which copies still exist, one being in the cloisters of S. Croce and S. Marco) and executed one half of it himself. In 1586 this work was demolished with a view to replacing Lt by a new facade, designed by Buontalenti, Dosio , Cigoli and others, a project which however was not carried out. The cathedral (like S. Croce and S. Lorenzo) consequently remained destitute of a facade, a defect which it was sought to remedy by supplying its place with frescoes, but these have long since disappeared. In April, 1860, Victor Emmanuel laid the foundation-stone of a new facade. In 1863 42 designs were submitted for inspection, and various plans subsequently proposed, but no decided steps have yet been taken in the matter. The workmanship of the marble-clad walls is excellent and chaste. The two side-entrances and the chapels are sparingly ornamented. The grand proportions of the interior are most impressive, although 362 Route 48. Florence. Cathedral. the walls present a somewhat bald appearance. The choir, instead of being at the extremity of the church, is appropriately placed under the dome. The three doors of the front are adorned with old frescoes by Paolo cce 0 ( prophets), and the Coronation of the Virgin in mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi; at the sides frescoes (angels) by Santi di Tito, restored 1842, _ r. Monument of Filippo Brunelleschi, with his portrait in marble by his pupil Buggiano. Monument of Giannozzo Manetti, attributed to Dona- el/o. (r.) Bust of Giotto by Benedetto da Majano; (1.) by the pillar a fine receptacle for consecrated water by Arnolfo or Giotto, (r.) Monument of Bietro Farnese by Jacopo Orcagna. Bust of the learned Marsilius Ficinus, by A. Ferrucci . Over the following door (r.) the Mausoleum of Antonio Orso Bishop of Florence, by Andrea Pisano. By the pillar of the dome St. Matthew, statue by Vincenzo de' Rossi; opposite to it St. James, by Giacopo da^ Sansovino. J n the transept St. Philip, by Giovanni Bandini Each of the 4 chapels of the S. transept are adorned with two saints, painted al fresco by Lorenzo di Bicci. The stained glass windows in the chape s, jib well as those in the church, are said to have been executed at Lubeclc in 1434 by the Florentine Domenico Livi da Gambassi from de- signs by Ghiberti and Donatello. Over the door of the sacristy . a’ bas-relief (Ascension) by Luca della Robbia. In the church, statues of St. John by Benedetto da Rovezzano. Beneath the altar of the Tribuna (or chapel) of St. Zenobius is the shrine containing the relics of the saint, in bronze by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Last Supper on a golden ground, painted a tempera’ , J 70 t ° va ? L ™ 1 a ucci - The paintings in the octogonal dome, commenced 1572 by Vasan and continued by Federigo Zuccheri (prophets etc.) are not easily distinguished. The octagonal choir, constructed of marble from designs by Ginliano di Baccio d' Agnolo, is adorned with basreliefs by Ban - dinelli and Giovanni dell' Opera, Behind the high altar an unfinished group (Entombment) by Michael Angelo. In the choir magnificent antiphonaria and gradualia (chorister’s books) with miniatures by Monte di Giovanni Frate Eustacchio etc. Bronze door of the sacristy by Luca della Robbia Above it a bas-relief in terracotta (Resurrection), by the same master In this sacristy Lorenzo de’ Medici sought, refuge in 1478, on the outbreak of the conspiracy of the Pazzi, to which his brother Julian fell a victim. The Tribuna della S. Croce contains a statue of St Andrew by Andrea Ferrucci Frescoes by Lorenzo di Bicci. The 10 stained glass windows are uJ ° r In the centre of the tribune is a rounded piece of marble, placed here about the year 1450 by the celebrated mathematician Paolo Toscanelli of Florence, the sun shining on which through an aperture in the lantern of the dome indicates the point when it passes the meri- dian. In 1755 P. Leonardo Ximenes added a graduated dial in order to ad- mit of more accurate observations, as an inscription on one of the pillars of the dome records. By the side-door is a ^portrait of Dante, with a view of Florence and a representation from the “Divine Comedy”, painted on wood by Domenico di Michelino in 1465 by command of the republic. Then Arnolfo, with the design for the cathedral, by Bartolini (1483). Sta- tue of the secretary of state Poggio Bracciolini, by Donatello. The de- Campanile. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 363 sign of the coloured mosaic pavement is attributed to Baccio F Agnolo, Buonarotti and Francesco da S_. Gallo. The ^'Campanile , or hell - tower, commenced by Giotto in 1334 and completed by his successor Taddeo Gaddi , a square structure in the style of the cathedral, 275 ft. in height, recently restored, is regarded as one of the finest works of the kind in existence. It is ascended by a good staircase of 414 steps (fee 1 fr. f 0r i_2 pers.). Beautiful view from the top, embracing the valley in which the city extends, the neighbouring heights, studded with villas and richly cultivated, and the mountains to the N., S. and E. At the summit are seen the pillars on which, according to Giotto’s plan, a spire of 100 ft. was to have risen, hut the project was abandoned by Gaddi. The tower consists of four stories, the lowest of which is richly decorated with reliefs and statues. On the W. side are statues of the 4 Evangelists by Donatello (*St. Matthew, the finest) and Giovanni de Rossi ; on the S'., four prophets by Andrea Pisano and Giottino ; on the E. four saints by Donatello and NiccoTo Aretino ; on the N., four sibyls by Luca della Robbia and Nanni di Bartolo. Beneath these are bas-reliefs designed by Giotto, executed by Andrea Pisano and Luca della Robbia: the 7 cardinal virtues, 7 works of mercy, 7 beatitudes and 7 sacraments; in the lower series is represented the development of mankind from the creation to the climax of Greek science. Quitting the Piazza della Signoriar the stranger crosses the Piazza S. Firenze to the 1., passing the church of that name, and reaches the Palazzo del Podesta, commonly known as *11 Bargello (PI. 39), erected about the year 1250 by Arnolfo for the Podesta, or chief magistrate of the Republic. This imposing structure was employed as a prison from the 6th cent, until recently, and the interior was sadly dilapidated. Since the great “Dante Exhibition”, which took place here in 1865, the Museo Nazionale, a collection bearing reference to the history of mediseval and modern culture in Italy, has been established here (adm. 1 fr., Sundays gratis), but is still in its infancy. The most interesting of its present contents are the Renaissance bronzes, formerly preserved in the Uffizi. Several sculptures in the court.. A handsome staircase ascends to the first floor. R. 1st Saloon: cast of Michael Angelo’s David. 2nd S : various 364 Route 48. FLORENCE. La Badia. descriptions of furniture. 3rd S.: fayence. 4 th S. , formerly the chapel, and for centuries a dingy prison, is adorned with frescoes by Giotto, that on the window-wall representing Paradise, and containing a portrait of Dante as a youth (beneath it a Madonna and St. Jerome, by Ghirlandajo ), on the entrance- wall, almost entirely abliterated, are the Infernal regions; at the side the history of Mary Magdalene, much damaged. The ad- joining room contains a Madonna by Cimabue. 5 t h S. : sacer- dotal vestments. A staircase ascends hence to the 2nd floor, where there is an armoury, a collection of crystal, carving etc. 6th S. : Bronzes ; in the centre the celebrated ^Mercury of Giovanni da Bologna; David, by Donatello ; David, by Andrea Verrocchio; Abraham’s sacrifice, by Lorenzo Ghiberti, and the same by Filippo Brunelleschi , works submitted by these two rival com- petitors for the task of executing the doors of the baptistery (p, 360); 1. a colossal figure of Duke Cosimo I., by Benvenuto Cellini; basrelief representing a dog, also by B. Cellini ; on the side by which the saloon is entered, an anatomical Statue by Luigi Cigoli ; Juno, Thetis, Vulcan and Venus, by Giovanni da Bologna. Also a number of small copies of celebrated sculptures. On the opposite side of the same street is the church of La Badia (PI. 4), erected 1625 by Segaloni, on the site of an earlier structure of the 13th cent, by Arnolfo, containing the ^Monument of Bernardo Guigni by Mino da Fiesole and a ^Madonna by Fra Filippo Lippi. The street Borgo dei Greci (to the r.) now leads to the Palazzo Peruzzi (PI. 78), still occupied by the family of that name (containing portraits of Petrarch and Laura by Simone Memmi and a few antiquities). The curved form of the Via Torta, to the 1., is derived from the boundary-wall of an amphi- theatre which formerly stood here. A short distance farther is the Piazza S. Croce, one of the largest in Florence, with which many reminiscences from the earlier history of the city are connected. Here stands the *Statue of Dante (PI. 85), by Pazzi, 18 ft. in height, inaugurated with great solemnity, on the 600th anniversary of the birth of the poet, May 1 4th, 1865. The pedestal, 22 ft. in height, is adorned with four reliefs, represen- ting scenes from the “Divina Commedia” ; at the corners four lions; round the base the arms of the chief towns of Italy. 8. Croce. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 365 To the r. is the Palazzo delV Antella (now del Borgo ) (PL 58), with facade decorated with frescoes and constructed 1620, within the short space of 27 days, by Giovanni da S. Giovanni and five or six other masters. No. 9 in the Via dei Malcontenti, which leads 1. and passes the church, is the Palazzo Berte (PL 60), containing a valuable collection of pictures, formerly in the Palazzo Guadagni near S. Spirito (open 10—3, fee 1 fr.). The 3rd Room contains the most important works: Tintoretto , Portrait; Salvator Rosa, *Sermon on the Jordan and *Baptism of Christ. The church of *S. Croce (PL 7), a cruciform basilica borne by columns, was commenced in 1294, from a design by Arnolfo di Cambio, on the site of a former church of the Franciscans, completed 1442, and consecrated by Cardinal Bessarion in pre- sence of Pope Eugene IY. The front alone remained uncomple- ted,- but the old design of Simone Pollajuolo, surnamed Cronaca, was at length rescued from oblivion, and the foundation-stone of the new facade laid by Pope Pius IX. in 1857. The work was skilfully executed by the architect Nicolo Matas and conse- crated in 1863. It harmonizes well with Arnolfo’s structure, and with its rich decorations in light marble, combines the advantages of ancient and modern architecture. The pediments, however, at the sides are somewhat too bare, and the general effect wan- ting in shade. In 1566 Giorgio Vasari , by order of Cosimo I., made several alterations in the altars, which no longer accord with the simple dignity of the interior, but its considerable dimensions (460 ft. long, 134 /ft. broad) render it imposing, whilst the numerous monuments of celebrated men erected here greatly enhance the impression. This church may be termed the Pantheon of modern Italy. By the side of the entrance are seen the foundations of the Campanile by Baccio Bandmelli ; the present structure is by Baccani, 1857. The chief objects of interest in the interior (beginning on the r.) are: The Tomb of Michael Angelo whose remains repose beneath (d. at Rome, 1563) , erected 1570, the bust by Battista Lorenzi , the sculptures and painting by Giovanni dell ’ Opera , Valerio Oioli and Lorenzi. Monument to Dante (interred at Ravenna, p. 304), by Stefano Ricci , erected 1829. *Alfieri, by Canova (erected by the Countess of Albany). *Marble pulpit with 5 reliefs, by Benedetto da Majano. Macchiavelli (d. 1527), by Inno- cenzo Spinazzi, ejected 1787, with inscription: Tanto nomini nullum par elogium. The learned Lanzi. Leonardo Bruni (d. 1444), surnamed 366 Route 48. FLORENCE. S. Croce. Aretino from his birthplace, above it a Madonna, bas-relief by Andrea Verocchio. Vincenzo Alberti (minister of Leopold I.), by Emilio Santa- relli. The (closed) chapel of the Castellani fdel S. Sagramento) is adorned with frescoes by Stamina and Taddeo Gaddi. Over the altar a Last Supper, by Vasari. ^Monument of the Countess of Albany (d. 1824), Widow of the* young Pretender by Luigi Giovanozzi , the two angels and bas-relief by Santarelli . R. Transept: chapel of the Marchesa Giugni, with frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi. Over the altar a marble group by Bandinelli. Altar-piece, ^Coronation of the Virgin, with saints and angels, by Giotto. The door of the corridor leading to the sacristy is next reached } at the end of the corridor the chapel of the Medici, with bas-reliefs by Luca della Robbia ,- and marble sacrament-house by Mino da Fiesole. *Madonna on the throne, with 10 saints, by Giotto. Sacristy with old pictures of the school of Giotto etc. The chapel (r. on leaving the sacristy) contains ^frescoes by Giovanni di S. Giovanni. The 3rd chapel belongs to the Buonaparte family, monuments of Carlotta Buonaparte and of Julia Clary-Buonaparte, by Bartolini. In the 4th chapel *God the Father with the Madonna, St. Roch and St. Sebastian, attributed to Andrea del Sarto. Frescoes by Giotto. In the 5th chapel portrait of St. Francis, from life, by Cimabue (covered). In 1855 *lrescoes by Giotto were discovered here, representing events in the life of St. Francis. The high altar was executed from a design by Vasari. In the 3rd chapel frescoes in the lunette, oil-paintings at the sides, by Luigi Sab atelli and his sons, representing the Miracles of St. Antony etc. In the 4th chapel Madonna with saints, of the school of Luca della Robbia. In the 5th chapel frescoes by Giottino; monument of Uberto de’’ Bardi. with portrait by Giottino. The Niccolini chapel (closed) was constructed by Antonio Dosto; statues of the Virgin with unicorn, Moses, Wisdom and Humility, by Antonio Francavilla. In the following chapel a monument of the architect Alessandro Galilei, by Ticciati; crucifix by Donatello. In the side-chapel the monument of Princess Sophia Czartoryska, by Bartolini. By the pillar the monument of the celebrated architect Leo Battista Alberti, a group by Bartolini; on the opposite side reposes the last of his family. *Carlo Marsuppini, by Desiderio da Settignano. Vittorio Fossombroni (minister, d. 1844), by Bartolini. Giovanni Lami (d. 1770), by Spinazzi. On the pillar Pieta, a painting by Angelo Bronzino. Monument of the jurist Pompeo Signorini (d. 1812), by Stefano Ricci . *Galileo Galilei, by Giulio Foggini. Over the altar next to the entrance a Descent from the Cross, by A. Bronzino. Adjoining it the monument of the naturalist Targioni Tozzetti. The central S. door, by the monument of Leonardo Bruni, leads to the * Cloisters , with old monuments of the families of Alamanni, Pazzi, della Torre etc. Then by a stair to the pas- sage leading to the beautiful *Chapel of the Pazzi, erected by Filippo Brunelleschi, containing numerous terracottas by Luca della Robbia. In the passage are modern monuments by Costoli , Santarelli, Bartolini and Pampaloni. The ancient Refectory (en- tered from the carpet-manufactory, r. of the church) is adorned with frescoes of the Last Supper and scenes from the life of SiS. Annunziata FLORENCE. 48. Route. 367 St. Francis, ascribed to Giotto. The Inquisition, which was abo- lished by Duke Peter Leopold, once held its sessions here. Quitting the Piazza del Duomo, the Via de’ Servi passes the stately Palazzo Manelli (formerly Ricci , then Riccardi) (PL 74), erected by Buontalenti in 1565, and leads to the handsome *Piazza della SS. Annunziata. On the r. side of the latter rises the Spedale degli Innocenti, or Foundling Hospital (PI. 92), erected 1421 from the designs of Brunelleschi and his pupil Fran- cesco della Luna; charmingly executed infants in swaddling clothes between the arches, by Luca della Robbia. Frescoes beneath the portico by Poccetti ; the busts of the four Medici, Cosimo I., Francesco I., Ferdinando I. and Cosimo II., by Sermei, pupil of Giovanni da Bologna. L. in the court, over the door leading to the church, an * Annunciation by Luca della Robbia. The Church of the Foundling Hospital (restored 1786) contains an altar-piece, the ^Adoration of the Magi, by Domenico Ghir- landajo (1488). Opposite to the Spedale (1.) is the hall ol the brotherhood Servi diS. Maria , similar in style to the hospital, erected by Antonio da S. Gallo. In the piazza are two hand- some *Fountains by Pietro Tacca, and the equestrian *Statue of the grand-duke Ferdinand I., by Giovanni da Bologna (his last, but not best work; he died 1608, upwards of 80 years of age), erected in 1608, and cast of metal captured from the Turks: the pedestal was adorned in 1640, under Ferdinand II. At the E. extremity of the piazza rises the old church of SS. Annunziata (Basilica Parrochiale e Convento della Santissima Annunziata Servi di Maria) (PI. 2), founded 1250, but frequently altered and re- decorated at subsequent periods. Handsome portico with three doors; that on the W. leads to the monastery and the cloisters, that in the centre to the church, the third to the chapel of the Pucci, founded 1300, restored 1615, which contains a St. Se- bastian by Antonio da Pollajuolo (accessible only by special per- mission of the family). Over the central door a mosaic by David del Ghirlandajo , representing the Annunciation. A species of entrance-court, to which this door leads, is adorned with *Frescoes by Andrea del Sarto and his pupils. R. the Assumption, by Rosso Fiorentino; Visitation, by Pontormo ; Nuptials of Mary, by Franciabigio ; ^Nativity of Mary, by Andrea del Sarto; ^Adoration of the Magi by the same master; 1. of the entrance, Nativity, by Baldo- vinelti ; Investiture of S. Filippo, by Cosimo Roselli; *S. Filippo giving his garment to a sick man, by Andrea del Sarto; monument and bust of 368 Route 48. FLORENCE. 8. Marco. Andrea, by G. Caccim; *Gambler struck by lightning, and S. Filippo by Andreo del Sarto ; *Cure of a man possessed with an evil spirit, and*Death of S. Filippo and miracles wrought by his robes, both by Andrea del Sarto. The church, consisting of nave without aisles, transepts, two series of chapels, and surmounted by a dome, is adorned with a large ceiling- painting of the Annunciation, by Giro Ferri (1670). The 4th chapel on the r. contains the monument of the engraver Giovita Garavaglia (d 1885) by Lorenzo Nencini. Over an altar in the S. transept a Pi eta by Baccio Bandmelh. The great rotunda of the choir, designed by Leo Battista Alberti, adorned with frescoes by Fofterrtmo (1683) and Ulivelli , is peculiar. The 5th choir-chapel contains a crucifix and reliefs by Giovanni da Bologna with the monument of that master; in the 6th chapel a Resurrection by Bronzino; in the 7th a *Madonna with saints, by Pietro Perugino. In the 1st chapel of the nave, after the choir is quitted: Assumption, by Pietro Perugino (or Albertinelli?). In the 3rd chapel the Last Judgment, copied from Michael Angelo’s picture at Rome by Alessandro Allori. Frescoes by the same. In the last chapel, erected by Piero de' Medici from Michelozzi's design, and sumptuously decorated with silver and gold by subsequent prinees, is a miraculous picture of the Virgin behind the altar, a fresco of the 13th cent., which enjoys great veneration. Over the altar a Head of the Saviour, by Andrea del Sarto. A door in the N. transept leads to the Cloisters ; over it is a *fresco by Andrea del Sarto , the Madonna del Sacco. Adjacent is the monument of the Falconieri , founders of the church. On the same side is the entrance to the chapel of the guild of painters (Compagnia di S. Luca),, adorned with paintings by Aless. Allori, G. Vasari, Fra Paolino da Pistoja etc.’ The Via della Sapienza leads hence to the Piazza di S. Marco, with the Accademia delle Belle Arti and the Monastery of 8. Marco. From this piazza diverge the two principal streets of Florence, the Via Cavour (formerly Largo) and Via Ricasoli (formerly del Cocomero), both containing a number of palaces and impor- tant edifices, and recently prolonged in a straight direction as far as the city-wall. In the Via Cavonr is situated the Casino Mediceo (now Dogana, PI. 51), remodelled in 1570 by Buonta- lenti, where Lorenzo il Magnifico, and after him Giuliano de’ Medici, preserved a great number of the treasures of art which were subsequently transferred by Cosimo I. to the gallery of the Uffizi. At the side are the *Cloisters of the Barefooted Friars (Chiostro della Compagnia dello Scalzo), adorned with *frescoes from the history of John the Baptist, by Andrea del Sarto. The porter of the Academy keeps the key. The suppressed Dominican Monastery of S. Marco (PI. 19), with a Church of 1290, handsomely renewed under Cosimo de’ Medici (1430) from Michelozzi's designs, was once the residence FLORENCE. Academy. 48. Route. 369 ■of Savonarola , whose cell is still shown, and of the painters Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole and Fra Bartolommeo della Porta. Fra Angelico (1387—1455) is unrivalled in his represen- tations of saints. Over the central door, within the church, Christ, painted a tempera on a gold ground, by Giotto. »8t. Thomas Aquinas before the Crucified, by ,„ , . ' Rucellai) a large -Madonna by by “he wal to tt”^ ^ transept the tombstone of the Patriarch Joseph of Constantinople (d!l44® • uaa TV° tle / real C ° uncil ofl 839, which was first held at Ferrara m 143b, and afterwards at Florence, by Pope Eugene IV and the Prcnv Einyohn VII. (Pal.ologus) with a view'to thS^ A building erected in 1418 A cloisters ^ the Cappella degli Spagnoli, commenced 1320, with frescoes of Giottos school (erroneously attributed to Taddeo Gaddi and Simone Memmi) on the yall of the altar the Passion, on the ceiling .the Wee nha n nt an the nS10n ; Q “ ^ B ‘ Side ^ the Church miliLt and trium- phant the pope and emperor on the throne, surrounded by their counsellors on th W "ZoTiZt “1 Pe -‘ rarCh La “ ra ' B0C ““ ta - 0=^ un the W. side (1.) Thomas Aquinas m his professorial capacity surrounded by angels prophets and saints, in his hand an open book 4 Z them script. on: Optam et datue est mini s ensue ,t invocmiet rend in me' mriZ sapientiae et proposui illam regnis et sedibus (Lib Sap VII 7 8? fe t » is,; - (formeriy a chapel) decorated with frescoes of the 14th cent (the Passion) probably by Spinello Aretino. • 1 e Passion), The Railway Station is in the vicinity of this church. The Via de' Fossi leads hence to the Piazza del Ponte alia Larraja, then r. to the broad street (formerly a suburb) of Borgo Ognissanti. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 377 Ognissanti, where horse-races (eorso dei harheri) have for cen- turies taken place. A small Theatre is situated here, and a short distance farther, in the Piazza Manin , the Monastery and Church of the Minorites di S. Salvador e d! Ognissanti (PI. 30), erected 1554, remodelled 1627, the facade by Matteo Nigetti, with lunette by Luca della Robbia, representing the Coronation of Mary. In the interior St. Augustine, al fresco, by A. Botticelli , Madonna with saints by Santi di Tito, St. Jerome, al fresco, by Domenico Qhirlandajo . In the sacristy a crucifixion with saints, by Bona- guida (?).' A chapel approached by steps contains a crucifix, by Giotto. Adjacent is the entrance to the sacristy, adorned with frescoes by Giovanni da S. Giovanni, Ligozzi and Ferucci. The street next leads (termed in its prolongation Via del Prato ) to the Porta al Prato, whence the Cascine (p. 392) are reached to the 1.; they may also be reached by entering the Lung-Arno Nuovo, by the Piazza Manin, and either following this street, or the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, passing the Politeama (p. 343) and leading to the Nuova Barrier a (comp. p. 392). Turning 1. from the Borgo Ognissanti to the Ponte S. Trinita,. the traveller will perceive (Lung-Arno Corsini, No. 10) the Palazzo Corsini (PI. 65), erected, or at least remodelled, in 1656, from designs by Silvani and Ferri (magnificent staircase by the latter), and containing a valuable picture-gallery (access daily ; custodian 1 fr., porter 20c.; entrance at the back, Via di Parione 7). By the Ponte S. Trinita is the Palazzo Fontebuoni (Lung-Arno, No. 2) (PI. 67), formerly Gianfigliazzi , where Alfieri resided and died Oct. 9th, 1803. Then the Casino dei Nobili, an aristocratic rendezvous and seat of the Jockey Club. The Palazzo Hombert , the imposing mansion of the ancient Spini family, a structure groundlessly attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio, is now the town-hall ( Palazzo della Comu- nita, PL 64). Adjoining it is the old Palazzo Buondelmonti (PI. 59), formerly Scali, where since 1820 the reading-rooms of Yieusseux (p. 342) have been established. On the opposite side of the street are the church and monastery of S. Trinita, erected about 1250, altered 1570 by Buontalenti. The 4th chapel in the interior contains an Annunciation by the Camaldulensian monk Don Lorenzo. R. by the high altar the *Cappella de Sassetti, with frescoes from the life of St. Francis by Dom. 378 Route 48. FLORENCE. Palazzo Strozzi. Gkirlandajo; beneath are the founders of the picture, Francesco srs “ Nera corsi - The ^ Farther on, on the other side of the Via Tornabuoni, is the «lted inT/sTh r^" Str ° 2Zi (PL 84} ’ witb three ^des, StrosL The f ^ ton° ** MaSm ° f0r the ceIeb «‘»d Filippo fh n m IS 120 ft in breadth »d 98 ft. in height ; the budding m the court, added by Cronaca, is also considerable A fine collection of pictures, especially of the Florentine school is preserved here, comprising works of Giotto, Andrea del Sarto Allan and Bronzino (portrait of Filippo Strozzi); among the amily-portraits, that of a young girl by Titian, termed *l! Put- ting diTiziano; Pope Paul III. by Paolo Veronese (access, whilst the prince is residing at the palace, only by his permission usual y to be applied for on the day previous to the intended visit)’ The house in which Dante was born in 1265 (Pi 461 recently restored, is in the Via S. Martino (formerly Via Eic- c rda) No 2, not far from the Piazza della Signoria; that of Amengo Vespucci near the church of S. Giovanni di Dio in the Via^de^G “""‘'h- UaCC J“ avMi ' s house C PI - d 8) is No. 16 in the (No m f P Too . ln 'n T ad * he P ° nte Vecchi0 ' Nes ‘ d ™r of th IK 1S the 1 ' alaszo Guicciardini, once the residence C«82-1541). ■Boboli Garden and the Belvedere fortification. °‘ ’ near ‘ he The house of Bianca Capello, wife of Francis I mj ,, nf nitii 01 via ™ mantic ™ lssltudes of •«« history, is also worthy may be h , MagS ‘° 26 ’ erected 1666- The archaeologist, it may be here observed, will find the numerous memorial tablets ^i e :r^w“ eet the eye> most usefui as — ^ No T 4 h 9 H :;i1 m Tr Angel ° (PL i9) is Via Ghibellina, of his fam ly h “f dT' ** ** 1?th Ce “*' a ®»<*»d« . mily here founded a collection of pictures and anti It U me e rits W a h,Ch T ^ # ' BU ° narr0ti be 1“ eathed *» the city, t merits a visit chiefly on account of the designs and other Z'“,o"T in *'“ Ch. del Carmine. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 379 The entrance-room contains Etruscan and. Roman antiquities of little importance. To the 1. a room with pictures, among which are: 92. Titian (?) , Death of Lucretia; 95. Cristoforo Allori , Michael Angelo in a turban; 97. Michael Angelo , Portrait of himself. To the r. a series of apartments with various memorials of the great master. In the 1st, scenes from his life; then the Holy Family, a picture, and the Battle of Hercules and the Centaurs, a relief, by Michael Angelo. In the ‘2nd,«portraits of his ancestors by Pietro da Cortona, Domenico Pugliani e tc ; bust of Michael Angelo in bronze, by Giovanni da Bologna; in a small room adjacent are terracottas by Luca della Robbia , two sticks and the sword of Michael Angelo. In the 3rd, frescoes with saints; marble busts of the last proprietor and his wife; sketch of the Cappella de’ Medici; Carita, a relief in marble by Michael Angelo. In the 4th a *bust of Michael Angelo in bronze, from a cast taken after death, by Giambologna; a collection of ^drawings by Michael Angelo. The present arrangement of the rooms will probably be shortly altered. The Yia Faenza leads from the centre of the city to the fortress of S. Giovanni Battista, usually termed Fortezza da Basso , erected by Cosimo I. in 1534. The refectory of the suppressed monastery o> S. Onofrio in this street (No. 57) contains a *fresco of the Last Supper (Cenacolo, date 1504), discovered 1845, attri- buted, but without sufficient foundation, to Raphael. In the same building is RosellinVs Egyptian Museum (Pl. 54), to which the Egyptian antiquities of the Uffizi have also been transferred (admission daily). The Palazzo Ferroni, No. 2 in the same street, contains a picture-gallery (access generally on Sundays and Thursdays) be- queathed to the city by the last proprietor. About one-third of the city lies on the 1. bank of the Arno. A short distance to the r. beyond the Ponte alia Carraja are situated the Piazza and Church del Carmine (PL 22). The latter was founded 1268, but in 1771 entirely burned down, with the exception of the *Brancacci chapel, and subsequently re-erected by Giuseppe Ruggeri. This chapel, in the r. transept, is adorned with ^frescoes from the history of SS. Peter and Paul by Filip- pino Lippi, Masaccio and Masolino: by Masaccio, Expulsion from Paradise, Peter taking the tribute-money from the mouth of the 380 Route 48. FLORENCE. 8. Spirito. fish, Baptizing Raising from the dead, Healing of cripples and ms-giving; by Masolino , Preaching of Peter, Fall and Resus patron of PetroniHa; Filippino Lippi, Peter and Paul in pr^Ze oi the proconsul, Peter in prison and his liberation. The choir contains the monument of Pietro Soderini, by Benedetto da Bo- tom^f St I n° rS1 r '' to the • tran5e P‘> «»“*ins tte tomb St. Andrea Corsim, Bishop of Fiesole. Ceiling-paintings by Luca Ckordano. Altar-pieces, Expulsion of the Bolognese from Florence by St. Andrea, and Invocation of the Virgifby ion Bait. Foggini. In the sacristy (entered from the r. tran- sept) frescoes from the history of St. Cecilia, discovered 1858 perhaps by SpineUo Aretino. The cloisters of the monastery (entrance r adjoining the church) contain a 'Madonna with the Child and the 4 Evangelists, attributed to Giotto. The refectory nfeTh I a , LaSt Supper by Dom ■ Ghirlandaio is now occu- P y the military and no longer accessible. Cund the rw ia 7iX S ' Spilit ° iS SitUated the ^posing Palazzo Guadagm (PI. 71), erected in the 15th cent. S. Spirito (PI. 33), a cruciform basilica supported by Corinthian .olurnns, with 38 chapels, was designed by Filippo Brunellesco, and mmenced in 1433, but having been destroyed by fire was not erecte till 1470-81 Its noble proportions 'and peculiar arran- gements render it one of the most attractive structures in Florence ZZT r T i0 m °- 8th Chapel: Raphael 1 with* Toh" fi ? ' llfl > cha P« 1 = Madonna, by Donatello. Cappella dei m cT’ . co " s * ruc ‘ ed b >' Buontalenti. Madonna with SS. Martin Nicho as and Catharine, by Filippo Lippi. I„ the s.E. corner-chapel of the chote cm S CaDpelfa delt ^ ^ following cha P el Madonna and saints by Botli- celh Cappella del Sagramento : Trinity, school of Perugino; in the second chape following, a Madonna with four saints, by Pietro Peruaino In the sacristy a saint healing the sick, hy AUori. in the churchTt Anna ,Ma now occupied by the military. ‘ he monaster y >► Palazzo Pitti. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 381 The *Palazzo Pitti (PI. 80) should next be visited. It was erected by Luca Pitti, the powerful opponent of the Medici, from a design by Brunellesco , but owing to the decline of his prospe- rity (after 1466) it remained uncompleted, and was sold in 1559 by his grandson to Eleonora, consort of the grand-duke Cosimo, and foundress of the Boboli Garden. The edifice was then com- pleted by Bartolommeo Amanati , by the addition of the wings and the handsome court. In the 18th cent, the two projecting lateral halls were added, and thus arose the present palace (“Rustica”), an edifice unrivalled in its simple grandeur. The central structure is 330 ft. in breadth and 115 ft. in height. A grotto with niches and fountains adjoins the court, behind which the garden ascends the hill. Since the 16th cent, the Pitti Palace has been the residence of the reigning sovereign, and is now that of Victor Emmanuel. The upper floor contains a ^Collection of upwards of 500 Pictures of the old masters, most of them excellent, formerly the property of Cardinal Leo- pold and Carlo de’ Medici, and the Grand - duke Ferdinand II. (admission daily 9—3 o’clock, on Sundays and festivals 10—: 3, Mondays 12—3; no fees. Connecting gallery to the Uffizi, on the first floor, a walk of 10 min., see p. 355). Luigi Bardi, dealer in works of art (Piazza S. Gaetano), has published a series of engravings of the works in this gallery. An insignificant staircase leads to a corridor containing a beautiful vase of porphyry, a copy of that preserved in the museum of Berlin, and a large porcelain vase from Sevres. This corridor leads to the gallery, which extends through a suite of splendid saloons, adorned with allego- rical ceiling-paintings whence their names are derived. They are sump- tuously fitted up with marble and mosaic tables and velvet-covered seats, .and heated in winter. Each saloon is provided with a list of the pictures it contains. Permission to copy is readily granted, if a written application be made to the director. The six principal saloons are first visited; the entrance was formerly at the opposite extremity, so that the numbers of the pictures, as enu- merated below, are now in the reverse order (catalogue 2 fr. 80 c.). Saloon of the Iliad , so termed from the subject of the frescoes by Luigi Sabatelli. It contains four tables of variegated marble and four vases of nero antico ; m the centre a group in marble by Bartolini, Madonna and Child with St, John. Ho. 184. Portrait of Andrea del Sarto , by himself; 185. Giorgione , Concert of 3 persons; 186. Paolo Veronese , Baptism of Christ; 188 . Salvator Rosa, Portrait of himself; 190. Sustermans , Portrait of the son of Frederick III. of Denmark; 191 .A. del Sarto. Assumption of the Virgin; 195 . Jacopo Fran- 382 Route 48. FLORENCE. Palazzo Pitti. da, Portrait; 196. Paolo Veronese , St. Benedict and other saints; 197. Guido Reni , Caritas; 198. Velasquez, Portrait; 200 .Titian, Philip II. of Spain; 201. Titian , Cardinal Ippolito de 1 Medici ; 206 .Bronzino, Francesco I. de 1 Me- dici; 207 . Leonardo da Vinci (?), Portrait of a goldsmith; *208. Fra Barto- lommeo , Madonna del Trono ; 212. Bronzino , Cosimo I. ; 213. Carlo Bold Moses; 214. F. Baroccio, Copy of the Madonna del-S. Girolamo, of Cor- reggio ; 216. Paolo Veronese, Daniel Barbaro ; 2H. Carlo Bold, St. John; 218. Salvator Rosa, A warrior; 219. Pietro Perugino, Mary and John adoring the Child; 220. A. Caracci, Christ with saints; 222. Giorgione, Female por- trait; *225. A. del Sarto, Assumption; 227. Carlo Bold, St. Martha; 228: Ti- tian, Head of the Saviour; 229. jFemale portrait, [attributed to Raphael; 230. Parmigianino, Madonna with angels (Madonna del collo lungo); 235. Ru- bens, Holy Family; 236. Bassano, The Saviour in the house of Martha. Saloon of Saturn. No. 147. Giorgione, Nymph pursued by a satyr; 148. Bosso Bossi, Bam- bocciata; 149. Pontormo, Ippolito de’ Medici; *150. Van Byck, Charles I. of England and his queen Henrietta of France ; **151 . Raphael, Pope Julius II. ; 152. Schiavone, Cain slaying his brother; 153. Wrreggio, Head of a child; 154. Carlo Bold, John the-Baptist asleep; *157 . Lorenzo Potto, Three periods of life; *158 .Raphael, Cardinal Bibbiena; *159. Fra Bartolommeo, Risen Christ among the 4 Evangelists; 160. Van Byclc, Virgin ; 161. Giorgione , Fin- ding of Moses ; 163. A. del Sarto, Annunciation ; *164. Pietro Perugino, En- tombment ; **165. Raphael , Madonna del Baldachino ; 167. Giulio Romano , Dance of Apollo and the Muses; 168. Guercino, St. Peter; *171. Raphael, Tommaso Fedra Inghirani ; *172 . A. del Sarto, Disputa della Trinita ; 173. Al- bano, Christ appearing to Mary; *147. Raphael, Vision of Ezekiel; 175. A. I- bano, Holy Family; 176. Bomenichino , Mary Magdalene; 178. Guido Reni ^ Cleopatra; 179. Sebastiano del Piombo , Martyrdom of St. Agatha; 181. Sal- vator Rosa, Portrait of a poet; 182 .Pontormo, Martyrdom of 40 Saints. Saloon of Jupiter. No. 108. Paolo Veronese, Portrait; 109. Paris Bor done. Female portrait; 110 . Titian, Bacchanalian ; 111. Salvator Rosa, Conspiracy of Catiline ; 112. Bor- gognone. Battle-piece; *113 . Michael Angelo, The Fates; 117. Spagnoletto, Por- trait of Simone Paganucci; *118. Andrea det'SaHd, Portraits of himself and his wife; 122 . Garofalo, Sibyl divulging to Augustus the mystery of the Incarnation; *123. A. del Sarto, Madonna in Gloria with four saints; 124. A. del Sarto, Annunciation; 125. Fra Bartolommeo, St. Mark; 127., 128. Mo rone. Portraits; 129. Mazzolini, The adulteress; 130. Bassano, Portrait of a wo- man; 131. Tintoretto, Vincenzo Zeno; 132. Crespi, Holy Family; *133. Sal- vator Rosa, Baitle (the figure 1. below the child, with the word Saro, is the painter’s portrait) ; 134. Paolo Veronese, The women at the Sepulchre 135. Salvator Rosa, Battle ; 136. Paolo Veronese, The Saviour parting from his mother; *139. Rubens, Holy Family ; *140 . L. da Vinci, Portrait ; 141. Ru- bens, Nymphs attacked by Satyrs. S aloon of Mars. No. 76. Van der Werff , Duke of Marlborough; **79 .Raphael, IV^adLo nna^ della Seggiola ; 80. Titian, Andreas Vesalius (the physician) ; *81. A. del Sarto , Holy Family; *82. Van Byclc, Cardinal G iulio B entivoglio ; 83. Titian , L uig i Cornaro ; 84. Palma Vecchio , Holy Family ; 85. Rubens, Rubens with his. Palazzo Pitti. FLORENCE. 38. Route. 385 brother and the scholars Lipsius and Grotius •, 86. Rubens, Mars going forth to war; 87., 88. A. del Sarto, History of Joseph; 89. Pans Bordone , Repose during the Flight to Egypt’; 90. Cigoli , Ecce Homo; 91. Carlo Bold, Peter weeping; 92. Titian, Portrait; 93 .Rubens, St. Francis; *94 .Raphael, Holy. Family, termed Madonna dell’ Impannata; 95 . Allori, Abraham’s Sacrifice; *96. C. Allori, Judith; 97 . And. del Sarto, Annunciation; 99. Guerdno, St. Sebastian; 100. Guido Reni, Rebecca at the well; 101. Barocdo, Christ 102. Luini, Magdalene; 103... Guercino, Moses; 104. Luca Giordano , Concep- tion; 106. Portrait of Gameo, school of Sustermans. Saloon of Apollo. No. 35. Bishop Girolamo Argentino, school of Morone ; 33. Girolamo da Carpi, Archbishop Bartolini Salimbeni; 37. Paolo Veronese, Portrait of his wife ; 38. Palma Vecchio ,' Christ at Emmaus ; 39. Angelo Bronzino , Holy Family; **40. Murillo _, Madonna. ; 41. Cristoforo Allori, Hospitality of St. Julian; 42. P. Perugino, Mary Magdalene; 47. Guido Reni, Bacchus; 49. Tiberio Titi, Leopoldo. de’ Medici as a child; 50. Guerdno, Peter raising Tabitha; 51. Cfgpjf Descent from the Cross; 52. Pordenone , Holy Family; 54. Titian, Pietro Aretino ; -56. 'Mronzino, Holy Family; 57. Gi^lio Romano , Copy of Raphael’s Madonna della Lucertola; *58. And. del Sarto , Descent from the Cross; **59. Raphael, Portrait of Maddalena Strozzi Doni ; *60. Rembrandt ^ Portrait of himself.; **61. Raphael, Angiolo Doni, friend of the master (Nos. 59. and 61. belonged to the Doni family till 1758, when they were transferred to Avignon, where they were purchased in 1826 for the Gallery for the sum of 5000 sc.udi) ; v 62. Murillo, Madonna; * Raphael , Leo X. and the cardinals de’ Medici and de’ Rossi; *64. Fra Bartolommeo, Pieta; 66. And. del Sarto , Portrait of himself; *67. Titian , Magdalene; 71. Carlo Maratta, S. Filippo Neri. Saloon of Venus. No. 1. L. Cranach, Eve; 2. S glvato r^ Rosa, Falsehood with a mask; 3. Tintoretto, Cupid, Venus and V\i\c^T\.°Salvator Rosa, Harbour at sunset ; 5. Garofalo, St. James; 7. Pourbus, Portrait; 8. Guerdno, Apollo and Mar- syas ; *9. Rubens , Landscape , Ulysses on the island of the Phseaci ; *14. Rubens, Landscape; 15. Salvator Rosa , Sea-piece; 16. Rembrandt , Old man; *17. TiMm ^ "Betrothal of St. Catharine; **18. Titian^ Eo?trait (La Bella di Tiziano); 20. L Cranach, Adam; 21. Pietro da Cortona, Saints praying; 23. Rustichino , Death of Magdalene. Visitors return hence to the Saloon of the Iliad and thence enter the Saloon of the Education of Jupiter. Ceiling-paintings by Catani. No. 241. Clovio, Descent from the Cross; 244. Fr. Pourbus, Portrait; 246. Garofalo , Gipsy; *248. Tintoretto, Descent from the Cross; 252. Holbein, Claude Lorrain, Due de Guise; 254. Palma Vecchio , Holy Family; 255. Van der Heist, Portrait; *256 , Fra Bartolommeo r Holy Family; 257. Paris Bordone , Sibyl prophecying to Augustus; 259. Cor- reggio, Christ (a copy); 264. Tintoretto , Resurrection; 265. And. del Sarto, John the Baptist; **266. Raphael, “Madonna del Granduca”; 267. Paolo Veronese, Portrait of a child; 269. P. Veronese, Presentation in the Temple; 270. Carlo Bold, St. Andrew before the Cross; 276. C. Bold, St. Louis of France; 277. Bronzino, Don Garzia de’ Medici. — Hence 1. into the 384 Route 48. FLORENCE. Palazzo Pitti. Sala della Stufa. The frescoes illustrating the golden, silver, brazen and iron ages are by Pietro da Cortona , ceiling-paintirigs by Matteo Eoselli , 1622. Here are preserved four small statues, in marble, and a column of green porphyry, bearing a small porcelain vase with the portrait of Napoleon I., and two statues in bronze (Cain and Abel), copied by Papi in 1849 from the marble statues executed by Buprb for the Duke of Leuchtenberg. Returning hence and traversing a passage, the visitor perceives on the 1. a small Bath-room , most tastefully fitted up, with pavement of modern Florentine mosaic, and four small statues of Venus by Giovanni Insom and Salvatore Rongiovanni. Saloon of Ulysses. Ceiling-painting by Gaspero Martellini, representing the return ofOdysseus, an allusion to the restoration of the grand-duke Ferdinand III. after the revolution. No. 288. Carlo Bold, Jesus in the garden 5 289. Ligozzi, Madonna appearing to St. Francis ; 297. Paris Bordone, Pope Paul III. ; 305. C. Allori , St. John in the wilderness ; 306. Salvator Rosa , Landscape; 307. A. del Sarto , Madonna and saints; 311. Titian , Emp. Charles V.; .312. Salvator Rosa , Landscape on the coast; 313. Tintoretto, Madonna; 316. Carlo Bold, Portrait ; *320. A. Caracd, Small landscape; *324. Rubens, Duke of Buckingham; 325. Carlo Bold, Madonna and the Infant Jesus, two miniatures. — Hand- some cabinet (stipo) of ebony, inlaid with coloured wood and ivory; in the centre a large vase. Saloon of Prometheus, with paintings by Giuseppe Colignon. In the centre a cabinet of inlaid wood, with mosaic in stone, and a magnificent round table of modern mosaic, executed for the London Exhibition of 1851, but not sent thither, value 30,000 l. — No. 337. Scipio Gaetano, Ferdinand de’ Medici; 338. Filip- pino Lippi , Madonna with saints; 339. Tintoretto , Portrait; 340. Madonna with two saints, school of Perugino ; *341. Pinturicchio, Adoration of the Magi; 345. Baldassare Peruzzi, Holy Family; 346. F. Zuccheri , Mary Magde- lene, on marble; 347. F. Lippi, Holy Family; 348. Botticelli, Holy Family; 353. Botticelli , Portrait of the “Beautiful Simonetta”, the mistress of Giu- liano de’ Medici, who died at an early age and whose praises were sung by the poets Pulci and Poliziano ; 354. L. di Credi~ Holy Family ; 355. Luca Signorelli , Holy Family ; 358. Bom. Ghirlandajo, Adoration of the Magi ; 362. Jacopo Boattieri, Holy Family; 365. Albertinelli, Holy Family; *373. Giov. da Fiesole, Madonna with saints, a winged picture over the door ; 375. Sodoma, Portrait; 377 . Fra Bartolommeo, Ecce Homo; 379 . J. da Pontormo, Adoration of the Magi; 384. A. Pollajuolo, St. Sebastian; 388. Filippo Lippi, Death of Lucretia. — Hence to the Galleria Po ccetti , which derives its name from the ceiling-paintings by Bernardino Poccetti. Two tables of oriental alabaster and one of malachite. *Bust of Napo- leon I., by Canova. Nos. 481., 485. Portraits by Sustermans-, 490. Guer- cino, S. Sebastian; 494., 495. Titian, Portraits. Returning to the Prometheus Saloon, the visitor next enters a Corri- dor, on the walls of which are 6 marble mosaics, two of which represent the Pantheon and the tomb of Cecilia Metella at Rome, the other four the Palazzo Pitti. FLORENCE. 48. Route. 385 different arts; then a number of ^miniature portraits and four stands with valuable drinking cups, objects in ivory etc. Saloon of Justice. Ceiling-painting by Fedi. In the centre a handsome cabinet, purchased in Germany by Ferdinand 11. No. 389 .Tintoretto, A sculptor; 398 .Artemisia Gentileschi, Judith; 399 . SaMati, Patience; 401 .Sustermans, The canon Pan- dolfo Ricasoli ; 403. Bronzino, Grand-duke Cosimo I.; 404. Carlo Dolci , Vit- toria della Rovere; Wo. Bon if azio Bembo , Christ in the Temple; 408. Carlo Dolci , St,. DominiCus praying ; 408’. Peter Lely, Oliver Cromwell (a genuine portrait, sent' by the Protector to the grand-duke Ferdinand II.). Saloon of Flora. Ceiling-painting by Marini, decorations by Landi. In the centre *Venus by Canova. No. 415. Sustermans , Grand -duke Ferdinand II. de" Medici; 416., 421. Gaspard Poussin, Landscapes; 423. Titian \ Adoration of the Shep- herds; 430. Cig-oli, Madonna ; 436 . Gaspard Poussin, Landscape; 437. Van Dyck , Repose during the Flight into Egypt; 438 . Ruthart, Lions 1 den. Saloon of the Children (Sala de' Putti). Frescoes by Marini, decorations by Rabbujati. *No.4&2. Salvator Rosa, Landscape; 467. Van Douwen, Elector Palatine John William and his wife (1691) Maria Anna de 1 Medici, daughter of Cosimo III., masked; 469. A. Caracci, Nymph with satyrs; 472. Ruisdael, Landscape; 474. Rachel Ruysch, Fruit; *477. sfmdtor Rosa, Landscape with Diogenes, throwing away his drinking-cup (“la foresta dei filosofi n ). The other apartments, the Sala della Musica, Stanza dell Area and Sala d’Ercole, contain modern pictures of no great importance. The Biblioteca Palatina, founded by Ferdinand III. for his private use, is now united with the Magliabecchiana, together for- ming the BibliotecaNazionale($. 358). The ground-floor of the palace contains several rooms with good Modern Works of Art , histori- cal pictures by Bezzuoli and Sabatelli , statues by Bartolini (Carita), Ricci (Innocence) etc. (Application for admission is made to the porter at the entrance ) Also the I reasury (1. in the second court, accessible 9— 3 o’clock, fee V 2 &•), containing the royal plate and many interesting specimens of ancient and modern goldsmiths’ work. In the cases to the 1. are works by Benvenuto Cellini. R. a crucifix of bronze by Giovanni da Bologna, op- posite it a crucifixion by Tacca. Cruet-stand of lapis-lazuli etc. The *Boboli Garden [open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays; access on other days gratis by applying to the Pre- fetto del Palazzo (2nd court 1., 1st stair on the r., 10— 12 o’clock), from whom a permission valid for several weeks or months may be obtained] encloses the palace and extends in terraces up the hill. It was laid out by Tribolo in 1500, under Cosimo I. and 2') Bsedeker. Italy I. 386 Route 48. FLORENCE. Boboli Garden. extended by Buontalenti and commands a succession of char- ming *views of Florence with its palaces and churches, among which the Palazzo Vecchio, the dome and campanile of the ca- thedral and the tower of the Badia are most cospicuous. The long walks, bordered with evergreens, and the terraces, adorned with vases and statues, attract numerous pleasure-seekers on Sun- days and holidays. On entering the gate in the 1. wing of the Pitti Palace, the visitor first perceives to the 1. a grotto with four statues, modelled by Michael Angelo for the monument of Pope Julius II.; in the centre the Rape of Helen, a new group by Vincenzo de' Rossi. Beyond it, to the r., a marble basin with Venus bathing, by Giovanni da Bologna. At the entrance to the grotto, Apollo and Ceres, statues by Bandinelli. The principal path next leads to an open space termed the Amphi- theatre, formerly employed for festivities of the court; r. a hand- some fountain, 1. an Egyptian obelisk (brought hither from Rome) and an ancient basin of red marble. Then an ascent to the basin of Neptune, adorned with a statue of the god by Stoldo Lorenzi ; then, higher up, the statue of Abbondanza, commenced by Giovanni da Bologna, finished by Tacca (fine view hence). To the r. in the vicinity a small casino (closed on public days; access on other days by applying to the gardener, 30 c.), com- manding a charming and uninterrupted *view. Above the garden is the Fortezza di Belvedere , constructed 1590 by Buontalenti by command of Ferdinand I. Near it the closed gate of S. Giorgio. A path r. from the Abbondanza leads to an open grass-plot, also affording a fine view, whence the visitor about to leave the garden may descend direct. To the r. a beautiful avenue, adorned with numerous statues (copies of old works, as well as modern originals), descends to a charming *Basin (la vasca dell ’ isolotto), enlivened by swans and other water-fowl. In the centre, on an island planted with flowers, rises a fountain surmounted by a colossal statue of Oceanus, by Giovanni da Bologna. The sur- rounding walks are embellished principally with genre works. A path leads from this basin in a straight direction to a grass- plot with two columns of granite, and thence to the Porta Ro- mana, which however is usually closed ; in the vicinity several ancient sarcophagi. To the r. of the Oceanus basin a broad path, 48. Route. 387 Mus. of Natur. Sciences. FLORENCE. parallel with the palace, is reached, by which the principal en- trance may he regained. Another issue, near a fountain with Bacchus on the lion, leads into the Via Romana. To the 1. is the Botanical Garden , to inspect which permission is obtained at the Museo Naturale. Near the Pitti Palace, Via Romana 19, is the *Museum of the Natural Sciences (Museo di Fisica e di Storia Naturale) (PI. 55), open daily 9—4, in winter 10—3 o’clock, established by Leo- pold I. in the palace of the Torrigiani purchased by him, and greatly augmented at subsequent periods. At the entrance a large globe of the earth, and above it a globe of the heavens, according to Ptolemy’s system. To the r. of the staircase is pre- served a valuable collection of fossil bones, found in the upper valley of the Arno. The public museum is on the second floor. In the antechambers are busts of eminent naturalists. To the 1 . are the mineralogical, geological and palaeontological collections. Returning to the corridor, the visitor enters the zoological de- partment by a door to the 1 ., and finally regains the corridor after having traversed no fewer than 35 apartments of various dimensions. The 2 first rooms contain zoophytes ; the 5 follow- ing, insects 5 then 8 rooms with mammalia (some of them fine examples), the two last with skeletons; 2 rooms with fish, 1 with reptiles, 2 with birds. Then an admirable anatomical collection in 12 rooms, consisting chiefly of models in wax, prepared by Clemente Susini and his successors Calenzuoli and Calamai. Beyond a room with products of the South Sea islands is a smaller cabinet containing older anatomical preparations, by the Sicilian Michele Zumbo , under Cosimo III. The first floor contains a collection of Tuscan minerals, foun- ded by Targioni Tozzetti. The botanical garden is entered hence. The botanical collection, a large portion of which was presented by Mr. Webb , an Englishman, comprises, in the second room, wax preparations illustrative of vegetable physiology; also two rooms of blossoming plants in wax, by Amici. — The ground- floor contains physical instruments etc. On the first floor is situated the * Tribuna of Galileo , in- augurated in 1840, on the occasion of the assembly at Florence of the principal scholars of Italy, constructed by Giuseppe Martelli , arid adorned with paintings by Gaspero Martellini , Luigi Saba * -25* . JSS Route 48. SAN MINIATO. Environs telli, Giuseppe Bezzuoli etc., illustrating the history of Galileo Volta and other naturalists; also a statue of Galileo by Costoli and numerous busts of celebrated men and mosaics in the pave- ment designed by Sabalelli, executed by Giov. Batt. Hilvestri. By the walls are six cabinets containing instruments from the time of Galileo downwards. This structure, with its decorations, is alone said to have cost 40,000 l. Popular Festivals: Festival of John the Baptist (June 24th) On the eve of this day fireworks are exhibited on the Ponte alia Carraja, and horse-races take place from the Porta al Prato to the Piazza S. Croce. On the day itself high mass is cele- rated at the cathedral; then a carriage-race in the Piazza • Maria Novella; in the evening, music and illumination of the cathedral and the vicinity of the Piazza della Signoria. Easter Saturday: Lo Scoppio del Carro, a vehicle with small cannon which are fired in front of the cathedral. Holy Thursday : wash- ing of feet at the Pitti Palace. Ascension: festivities in the Caserne. S. Annunziata, in August, and other church festivals are also celebrated with equal zest by the numerous pleasure- seekers of Florence. — The scene presented by the Piazza della bignona on Fridays, the principal market-day, should by all means be witnessed by the stranger, who will also have an op- portunity of inspecting the picturesque costumes of the peasantry. 49. Environs of Florence. of th?cit ei f„d : hiC ii SUr - 0Und Fl0rence aff0rd a series of farming views ° the citj and neighbouring country, some of the edifices erected in them m 1~ rr T !'° ,e —e sojourn is of some duration will hud ample scope for excursions m all directions. The principal points are here enumerated. It may, however, be here observed that most of the villas are not accessible to the public. a. San Miniato with its facade of light marble, on the height °* *J° rencf S » conspicuous object from many different J > / “ 1 " tS - ** " lay be cached by carriage or on foot in less than The road to lt: cannot be mistaken: across the Ponte alle Grazie, by the second street 1. to the Piazza S. Niccolo. thence r. by the Via S. Miniato to the gate of that name, through which the church is perceived on the height opposite. The avenue o cypresses which ascends to it first reaches the Franciscan monastery of -8. Salvatore del Monte. Its church, built by Cro - of 1 orence. POGGIO IMPERIALE. 49. Route. 389 nacaj is remarkable for the simple dignity and symmetry of its proportions, well deserving the commendation of Michael Angelo, who termed it “la bella villanella”. A few minutes more will bring the traveller to the closed entrance of S. Miniato (acces- sible daily, on Sundays and festivals till noon only ; porter 10 c., for opening the church and sacristy 50 c.). The churchyard commands a most beautiful view of Florence and its environs (finest in the afternoon): r. on the height Fiesole, then the city, with S. Croce, the cathedral, S. Lorenzo, Palazzo Vecchio, S. Maria Novella and the Lung-Arno, 1. the villa-clad heights, the Fortezza del Belvedere, Bello Sguardo and Villa Giramonti. A church of S. Miniato existed as early as the 7th cent. The present ^Basilica, an admirable structure in the Roman style, was founded in 1013 under Emp. Henry II. by Bishop Hildebrand of Florence, in the 13th cent, embellished with mosaics, and in the 14th provided with its present facade. The tower was re- newed in 1519 by Baccio df Agnolo. The monastery belonged till 1553 to the Benedictines of Clugny, since then it has been occupied by monks of Monte Oliveto. In 1529 Michael Angelo , as engineer of the republic, fortified this eminence with works which are still visible, and here conducted the defence against the imperial troops during 11 months. The pavement of the church contains magnificent *mosaics (1207). Disposition of the choir in the old style; the mosaic which adorns it re- presents S. Miniato before the Saviour (1297). Over an altar on the r. the portrait of S. Giovanni Gualberto, the saint of Vallombrosa (attributed to Giotto ), who, on meeting the murderer of his brother at the foot of this hill, was besought by him for mercy in the name of the Crucified. The haughty noble, touched with pity, not only spared his enemy, but resolved thenceforward to devote himself to a life of piety. He became a monk in this monastery, and afterwards founded the celebrated monastery of Vallombrosa. — In the centre is the altar of the crucifixion, erected 1465 by Pietro de 1 Medici. L. is the *Chapel of S. Giacopo, constructed by Antonio Rosellini, containing the monument of Cardinal Jacopo of Portugal (d. 1459); ceiling adorned in a masterly manner by Luca della Robbia. The *Crypt beneath the nave rests on elegant columns, some of them ancient. Beneath its chief altar repose the remains of S. Miniato and his com- panions; the tabernacle above it was painted by Taddeo Gaddi in 1341. S. of the choir is the Sacristy , erected 1387 in the Gothic style, adorned with *frescoes from the life of St. Benedict (his youth, ordination at Subiaco, miracles etc.) by Spinello Aretino. Beneath them, admirable inlaid work in wood. — The church is now about to be restored. h. Poggio Imperiale. Immediately to the 1., without the Porta Romana, through which the high road leads to Siena and. 390 Route 49. CERTOSA. Environs Rome, commences a fine avenue of lofty cypresses, evergreen oaks and larches, embellished with a few statues, leading in 20 min. to the Villa Poggio Imperiale. It was thus named and almost entirely fitted up by Magdalen of Austria, wife of Co- simo II., and afterwards adorned with various works of art, which were removed in 1860. The handsome edifice is now employed as an educational establishment, conducted by nuns, and conse- quently no longer accessible. Beautiful but limited view from the space in front of the building. The carriage-road 1. of the Poggio Imperiale divides on the height, whence a by-path in a straight direction leads to La Torre del Gallo, which owes its name to a family of that name (according to others, to its conspicuous weathercock). From this tower Galileo is said to have made his most important astro- nomical observations. Fine panorama from the summit (fee V 2 -l fr.J. Returning hence to the carriage-road, the traveller turns to the 1. by a road affording picturesque views and leading to the height of S. Miniato. The other road to the r. descends into the valley of the Ema , passing several houses and villas, among which is the Villa of Galileo, where the great astronomer passed the last years of his life (1631—42), latterly deprived of sight and surrounded by a few faithful friends. Here he was visited by his illustrious contemporary Milton. A short distance hence, near the church of 8. Margherita a Montici , stands the villa where Francesco Guicciardini wrote his history of Italy. Here too, in Aug. 12th, 1530, the Florentines who had been betrayed by their general Malatesta, signed the articles by which the city was surrendered to the imperial troops, thus becoming subject to the rule of the Medici. From that event the house derives its name Villa della Bugia. A visit to the Certosa may be conveniently combined with that to the Poggio Imperiale. Moreover the necessity of twice traversing a considerable portion of the Strada Romana is obvia- ted. The road to the r. is followed; after 10 min. it divides and descends r. to the village of Galuzzo on the high road. Plea- sing views. c. La Certosa in the Val d’Ema is reached by the high road from Porta Romana in 1 hr. (carriage 6 fr ? , via the Poggio Jm- BELLO S GUARD 0. 49. Route. 391 of Florence. periale somewhat more). To the r., as the height without the gate is ascended, rises the church of S. Gaggio; farther on is the village of Galuzzo (see above), beyond which the brook Ema is soon reached (1. on the height a nunnery). On an eminence, clothed with cypresses and olive-trees, at the confluence of this brook with the Greve, rises the imposing Carthusian Monastery (Certosa), in appearance resembling a mediaeval fortress. Stran- gers are not now admitted without special permission from the minister of the interior. This monastery also will shortly be dissolved. It was erected in 1341 by the Florentine Nicola Accaioli, from a plan by Orcagna. The rules of this order, which is dis- tinguished by the white robe of its members, are very strict. Most of their time is passed in solitude and study, and several days in the week in perfect silence; various religious services are also performed during the night. The order is of limited extent, and is now almost entirely confined to France, where it ori- ginated (at La Grande Chartreuse) and possesses a few monasteries. The church consists of a series of chapels. The most valuable pictures are a St. Francis, by Cigoli, and Christ on the Cioss, by Giotto ; in the lower chapel are the tombstones of the Accaioli, among them one by Donatello. Picturesque views from the upper court on which the cells open, especially through the val- ley of the Ema towards Prato and the Apennines. The rooms occupied for several months by Pius VI., when banished from Rome by the French, are also shown. d. Bello Sguardo, to the S. of Florence, easily recognised by its small pavilion with a red roof, is celebrated for the de- lightful prospect it commands. The traveller should on no account fail to visit it. The route cannot be mistaken. From Porta Romana the town-wall must be followed to the r. and the second road to the 1. taken. The latter first leads to a square with the small church of S. Francesco di Paola , which contains the mo- nument of Benozzo Federighi, bishop of Fiesole, by Luca della Robbia. The carriage-road is then followed in a straight direc- tion, and on the height, where it divides, the road to the 1. is taken. At the next bifurcation a side-path to the 1. is followed, which in a few minutes leads to the Bello Sguardo. The *view embraces Florence, with the Pitti Palace, S. Croce, the Palazzo Vecchio, Or S. Michele, the cathedral, S. Lorenzo, S. Maria No? 392 Route 49, MONTE OLIVETO. Environs vella etc.; r. on the height S. Miniato, opposite the spectator lies Fiesole, 1. the populous valley of the Arno, over which tower the distant Apennines. The view is seen to the best advantage to- wards sunset. — In the vicinity is the Yilla degli Albizzi, with a bust of Galileo and an inscription to the memory of that illus- trious astronomer, who frequently resided here and cultivated the garden with his own hapxls. The first road to the r. beyond the Bello Sguardo leads to Monte Oliveto. Those, who wish to visit the Bello Sguardo from the Porta S. Frediano follow the city-wall to the 1. and take the first road to the r., leading to the above-mentioned church of S. Francesco. e. Monte Oliveto. W. of the Bello Sguardo is situated the Badia di '8. Bartolommeo di Monte Oliveto , erected 1334, ador- ned with frescoes by Poccetti ; in the refectory an Annunciation by Bom Ghirlandaio . The garden should be visited for the sake of the view it commands of Florence and the environs. The Leghorn road from the Porta S. Frediano is followed until the mo- nastery is nearly reached; the road to the 1. is then ascended. Access to the garden is always permitted (key in the adjoining house, fee 20 c.). The finest *point of view is a slight emi- nence planted with cypresses, which forms a conspicuous object in the landscape. The eye ranges N.W. over the beautiful valley of Florence, with Prato and Pistoja, enclosed by mountains, over which rises one of the peaks of' the marble-mountains of Carrara; N.E. lies Florence, then Fiesole with the numerous villas which deck its heights; E. the Fortezza di Belvedere and S. Miniato; in the background the barren mountain-chain of the Casentino. Towards the S. the view is excluded by the intervening heights. From the suburb of S. Frediano a suspension-bridge (5 c.) leads to the Cascine. f. Le Cascine, the park of Florence, a favourite evening promenade of the citizens (especially on Sundays and festivals, when a band plays), should be visited, not only for the sake of viewing the fashionable world with their handsome equipages and often remarkably fine horses, but also as affording a most agreeable relaxation after the labours of sight-seeing have been encountered. The name is derived from a farm to which the park belongs. Beautiful walks may be taken in every direction. Visitors to the Cascine in the evening should proceed thither by CASCINE. 49. Route. 393 of Florence. uaqv^"- , i r « 377^ leading from the Porta al Prato, mountains. On the l. near me & } is the railway to Leghorn. A short distance farther on the entrance to the Zoological Garden (ad— % l/ 2 fr.), founded in 1860 on the occasion of ^ Ex^it.or t Florence Most of the animals were formerly at the Villa Demi doff (see helow). Great damage was occasioned here by an in undation of the Arno in 1864. The collection of »rma^ com- prises several good examples, especially two fine Alpine *• - the Cascine is a — . the form of a pyramid, with an inscription to Narcissus. A Urgo^n space beyond this, surrounded by a royal villa, P 11 1 a cafi, is the rendezvous of the « v^ — sunset. Beyond this spot the park is comparatively deserted. About 1 M. farther the extremity of the Caserne is reac , whence the town may be regained by following the tank of he Arno. The setting sun tinges the river and its banks with Thk 1 gatfneknhe river and the neighbouring Porta al Prato are closed soon after sunset, in which case the traveUer^mus skirt the wall of the town and enter by the Porta S. G . On the road to Pistoja, about »/, M. from the Porta al Prato, is situated the Villa Demidoff, the property of a Russian millronnaire who was created a prince by the former grand-duke of Tuscany, co taining valuable collections of modern pictures, arms etc., and surrounded by gardens and hot-houses. Admission on Mondays and Thursdays (not always granted) on application by letter secretary of the prince. About 1% M. from the Villa Demidoff, r. beyond Ponte Rifredi (railway-station , see p. 341), and in the vicinity of the ancient church of S. Stefa.no in Pane, lies the Villa Careggi, pro petty of the grand-dukes till 1780, then that of the Orsr family, erected by Micheloeei for the first Cosimo, who her. termum ed his brilliant career in 1464. Here, too, was once established the Platonic Academy, of which Marsilius Ficinus, Pious of M ran- dola, Angelas Politianus, Christophorus (.andrnus and many others Of the greatest men of that period were members. Lorenzo il 394 Route 49. FIESOLE, Environs Magnifico, grandson of Cosimo, also died at Careggi ri492i Bron T16W ^ ‘ he en¥ir ° nS ' A freSC ° eS by and B onzmo and a series of portraits are reminiscences of the history of this edifice. Farther W. is the Villa della Petraia, possessing delightful gardens, erected by Buontalenti, and adorned with paintings by tithe* S T° ™ il)anide da Vollerra ’ celebrated as the seat of the Brunelleschi who in 1364 so strenuously opposed the adverse faction under Hawkwood. The villa, which is now fitted up as a royal residence, is most conveniently reached from the (P ', 34 i } - N63r “ " * he with ^ 6 “ ° f fte Medid ’ ‘ hat * From railway-stat. Sesto (p. 341) a visit may be paid to the great porcelain-manufactory della Boccia, property of Marchese Ginon, who possesses a villa here. '■ Fies0 i Ie j is */. M. from the Porta S. Gallo. It may tie Pori S IT ‘ he PO t a Pintt (Carliage 7 ~ 8 f " ')• the Porta S. Gallo is a Triumphal Arch, erected in 1738 in nour o the entry of the Grand-duke Francis II., embellished ith reliefs and decorations of no artistic value. Farther on are the grounds (II Parterre) laid out by Leopold I. on the site of former monastery a pleasant promenade on summer evenings The road to Fiesole leads to the r. by the small river Mtpnone the inundations of which in rainy weather are frequently t7 L r th ih Ab ° Ut 3/4 farthCT ‘ he high r0ad ^erge! to the r the path next passes CV 2 M.) the beautiful Villa Pal- mier,, the property of the grand-ducal family, which Boccaccio presents as the temporary residence of the narrators in his ZTZT, e dUring ,7 Plag “ e in 134a The r “ d now ascends aprdly between garden-walls. To the 1„ near the Mugnone, are _church and suppressed monastery of Badia di Fiesole by ZZuTZT' 7rZll °° C ?n ei (,02 ®- m ® »y Benedictines, then y -augustines. By order of Cosimo de’ Medici the Elder the church a Member! f th"' p / P ° P ° rtions » was re-erected by Brunellesco in 1462 and t i- the P1 . at0niC Academ y frequently resided in the monastery’ After the 6 d ! i Mirandola worked at his interpretation of Genesi!’ tudit e FraZ^o l 0 ^ monas * e ry the printing-establishment of the occupied ^hirarm by whom many valuable works were published, The church conT’ 1HgS n ° W belong to an agricultural institution. ontams a number of monuments of the celebrated families of Florence. FIE SOLE. 49. Route . 395 of the Salviati Marucelli , Doni etc., who formerly resided in the neigh- , ■ * v inas The refectory of the suppressed monastery contains — *. I «— . resenting Chris, in the witder- ”n“ ed oSt/”S^ey-cteeb Of 8. Domenico da FiesoU the footpath unites with the carriage-road. Fra Angelico, the celebrated painter of saints, lived in this monastery before hts removal to S. Marco at Florence; the choir of the church contains a Madonna with saints, painted by him. Beggars are here nume- rous and importunate. The road here again divides; r. the new road ascends in long windings, passing below the villa La Doccia :wit its beautiful cypresses, and finally skirting the S. side of the ancient Etruscan wall of Fiesole, which now becomes visible. This excellent road, completed a few years ago, is principa y indebted for its construction to the Golden Book of Fiesole. is venerable volume enjoys the privilege of ennobling those whose names are inscribed on its pages, and, when the Fiesolans were desirous of constructing the road, their “golden book distributed its favours extensively among the Florentines and others, in return for a substantial equivalent. The footpath ascends rapidly to the 1., passing the Villa Mozzi , with beautiful garden, once a favourite residence of Lorenzo il Magnifico. In the vicinity is the rock (sasso) where according to tradition, St. Romulus an his companions suffered martyrdom at the hands of the Faisulani. Both the roads pass a series of villas, the names of which, as well as the proprietors, change frequently. The names of the occupants, a large proportion of whom are English, may generally be seen at the entrances. At the entrance to Fiesole and in the town itself the stranger is assailed by vendors of various trifles, who generally demand at least double the value of their wares. Many thousands of the inhabitants of this and other districts round Florence are engaged in straw -plaiting and the manufacture of Leghorn stew-hats. Guides (not absolutely necessary) also offer their ssrvicGs Fiesole, the ancient Faemlae, an Etruscan town of very remote origin, still retains a portion of its old wall, whrc is best preserved on the N. side and is of the so-called Cyclop an construction, consisting of large blocks piled without mortar. These have been erroneously attributed to th 396 Route 49. FIESOLE. Environs aboriginal Pelasgi, but there is no foundation for this supposition! such structures are not uncommon in this district, owing to the natural cleavage of the stone in large blocks, and they bear a distinct resemblance to the “rustica” edifices of Florence The v.sitor descends the street past the cathedral, after which he may skirt the wall to the r., and return by a by-road to the piazza of Fiesole. The site of the old Acropolis of F^sulae is occupied by a Franciscan Monastery, which is frequently visited for the sake of the prospect it commands. Ladies are not admitted, and must be satisfied with the less extensive view from the piazza in front of the monastery, embracing the valley of Florence, bounded on the S. by several ranges of hills, on the E. by the mountain- cham of the Oasentino, on the W. by the heights of Monte A bano, beyond which the mountains of Carrara stand prominently oit . hrom the garden of the monastery the valley of the Mugnone is visible below, with the quarries which yield the building-stone used in Florence. Towards the N. are seen the Monte Sennario, with its monastery, and the once magnificent villa of Pratolino (p. 311). . 0n an eminence in Fiesole rises the venerable church of A. Alessandro, with 15 antique columns of cipollino, probably occupying the site of a heathen temple. ■ A fel ' m beyond the ca !hedrai contains remains of an ancient llieatre, beneath the seats of which are vaulted receptacles, po- pularly termed “le buche delle fate” (holes of the fairies). The Fontana Sotterra, a deep excavation in the rock with a well approached by a long passage, is also of ancient origin. In the extensive piazza of Fiesole is situated the *Cathedral, a basilica commenced in 1028 by Bishop Jacopo Bavaro, shortly after the destruction of the ancient Fssul® by the Florentines, but not completed till 300 years later. It somewhat resembles the church of S. Miniato al Monte, like which it possesses a crypt with antique columns. The chapel r. of the choir contains the "monument of Bishop Salutati (d. 1465), by Mina da Fiesole, opposite to which is a "bas-relief by the same master, re- presenting the Madonna with St. Remigius and St. Leonhard m the foreground the Infant Christ, and John the Baptist with a beggar. of Florence. VALLOMBROSA. 49. Route. 397 Opposite the cathedral is the building of the seminary On the E side of the piazza is the Palazzo del Pretoria, of the 13th cent., bearing the arms of the magistrates (podesth). Ad- jacent to it is the venerable church of S. Maria Pnmerana, dating from the 10th cent., containing a tabernacle in terracotta of the school of L. della Robbia. A few insignificant houses in the vicinity constitute the present town of Fiesole, which in extent, as well as antiquity, once far surpassed Florence, but in 1010 fell a victim to the jealousy of its powerful rival. ' Those whom time permits should ascend the eminence a short distance E. of Fiesole, which rises to a greater height than the Franciscan monastery and commands an uninterrupted uaiiorauia. About 3/ 4 M. from the Porta alia Croce at Florence, 1. of the high road, are situated the remains of the monastery of S Salvi of the order of Vallombrosa, and mentioned as early as 1084. where in 1312 Emp. Henry VII. established his head- quarters during the siege of Florence. A *fresco here by And del Sarto, representing the Last Supper, is still well preserve . The traveller may prolong his walk hence in the valley o t e Arno as far as Compiobbi , station on the line from Florence to Arezzo, and return to Florence by the last train. h. Vallombrosa. A visit to this celebrated monastery may be accomplished from Florence in one day, but two should if possible be devoted to the excursion; for the same, with a visit to the Casentino Valley and the monasteries of Camaldoli and Alvernia as well as to Arezzo, an expedition which well repays the traveller, four days will be required. The train from Florence to Arezzo should be taken as far as Pontassieve (in 55 min.)* From the central station near S. Maria Novella the train performs the circuit of the city, commanding fine views, and stops at the station near Porta alia Croce , which may be more conveniently situated for some travellers than the principal station. It then skirts the r. bank of the Arno. The valley soon contracts. Stat. Compiobbi, a small village, lies in a richly cultivated district, above which rise barren heights. Stat. Pontassieve (Italia; Vapore, both very poor inns; carriages may be procured here), a small village at the 398 Route 49. VALLOMBROSA. Environs confluence of the Sieve and Arno, formerly derived some im- portance from its situation on the high road leading through the valley of the Sieve and over the Apennines to Forli. The excursion to Vallombrosa may be accomplished partly by carriage and partly on horseback. A carriage should be taken as far as the village of Pelago , where there is a good inn, the landlord of which keeps mules (one-horse carr. to Pelago for 2 3 pers. 5 — 6 fr.). Pedestrians are recommended to drive as far as the monastery-farm of Paterno (1 1/4 hr., one- horse 5 fr.), or 3 / 4 M. farther to the mill at the foot of the village of Tosi , where the carriage-road terminates. Ascent hence, a great part of the way through pine-forest, to Vallombrosa in IV 2 hr. The road from Pontassieve crosses the Sieve and follows the valley of the Arno for lVg-M., after w hich it ascends to the 1. Pedestrians should select the direct route to Paterno ; the village of Pelago is then left in a hollow on the 1. The garden and court of the farm appertaining to Vallombrosa are crossed, and the bank of a mountain-brook followed ; 3 / 4 M. from Paterno the above-mentioned mill is reached. Then across the brook in the direction of the poor village of Tosi, near which the path, recognisable by its crucifixes and images of saints, is followed to the 1. and not again quitted. It ascends gradually, traversing meadows, underwood and pine-forests, to Vallombrosa, situated in a shaded and sequestered spot (2800 ft.), about half-way up the Pratomagno mountain. The monastery was founded about 1050 by S. Giovanni Gualberto , scion of a wealthy and powerful family of Florence, who after a career of youthful profligacy resolved to devote the remainder of his life to the most austere acts of penance. His brother Hugo having fallen by the knife of an assassin, Gualberto was bound by the customs of that age to follow the bloody law of retaliation. Descending one Good Friday from the church of S. Miniato (p. 389) near Florence, accompanied by armed followers, he suddenly encountered the guilty object of his vengeance at a narrow part of the road. The latter fell at his feet and implored for mercy. The knight, suddenly moved by a generous impulse, forgave his enemy and resolved for ever to renounce the world and its passions. He accordingly retired to the cloister of S. Miniato: but deeming YALLOMBROSA. 49. Route. 399 of Florence. the discipline here too lax, he repaired with another monk to the solitudes of Camaldoli , and, taking the latter as a model, subsequently founded Yallombrosa, as a monastery of the order of St. Benedict, in the sombre valley whence it derives its name. Pope Alexander II. confirmed the foundation in 1070, and Gual- berto became the first abbot. He died in 1073, at the age of 74, and was canonized in 1193. The monastery soon acquired extensive possessions, and the tax paid by its landed property at the present day is said alone to amount to 5000 l. annually. The library and other collections were carried off by the French in 1808. The Italian government having prohibited the reception of novices, this monastery, like most of the others in Italy, will in a few years cease to exist. The present buildings were erected about 1637. The church, sumptuously adorned with marble and gilding, exhibits- the questionable taste of the 17th cent. The Foresteria, the front wing of the edifice, is exclu- sively destined for the reception of the numerous strangers who visit this refreshing retreat in summer. A separate building is fitted up for the accommodation of ladies, who are admitted to the church, but excluded from the precincts of the monastery. From 40 to 50 visitors can here be .accommodated at one time. Travellers are entertained with the courtesy and attention usually met with at such establishments, especially in Italy. An adequate sum is given to the Padre Forestieraio at parting (equivalent at least to what would be paid at a hotel). R Paradisino , or Le Cette , a smaller cloister situated on a rock, V 4 hr. from the monastery, and now uninhabited, commands an admirable survey of the latter, which lies 250 ft. below, and of the broad valley of the Arno as far as Florence. The horizon is bounded by the marble mountains of Carrara. The summit of the *Pratomagno commands an extensive pro- spect; the ascent from Yallombrosa (guide from the monastery) occupies 2 hrs. The path traverses dense pine-forest for 1 hr., then dwarfed beech-underwood and finally green pastures. The culminating point of the chain is crossed, and the sinuosities of the mountains followed by a tortuous path for some distance. The scenery of the Apennines is characterised by wild and bleak slopes and narrow ridges, intersected by profound gorges. Fine grained grauwacke (macigno). varied occasionally by grauwacke- 400 Route 49. PRATOMAGNO. Environs slate or the more recent clay-slate, forms the principal mass of this group. The vegetation is scanty and monotonous, insects and birds are rare, water seldom visible. The view from the summit, which is 5000 ft. above the sea- level, is obstructed on the N. and S. by peaks of equal altitude. E. lies the green Casentino Valley, watered by an impetuous brook, the water of which is praised by Dante (Inf. 30, 64), and bounded on the N.E. by the lofty Monte Falterona, the source of the Arno and a buttress of the principal chain of the Apen- nines. W. the fertile and richly cultivated valley of the Arno stretches as far as the dome of the cathedral of Florence, beyond which the blue Mediterranean is visible in the extreme distance. Above the towers of Florence rise the indented peaks of the mountains of Carrara and other summits, among which the Monte Cimone (6600 ft.), the loftiest of the N. Apennines, is most con- spicuous. From the Pratomagno a steep path descends through woods and ravines (II /2 hr.), skirting the brook Solano , traversing green meadows and stony slopes overgrown with thistles , then through underwood of beeches and chestnuts , past Cetica and several other mountain-villages to the picturesque market-town of S. Niccolb , commanded by the ancient fort of that name, and situated at the confluence of the Solano and Arno, where the fertile Casentino expands. The river is crossed by a wooden bridge, beyond which a good road leads to the r. , passing the ancient church of Campaldino , where in a sanguinary conflict, June 11th, 1289, Dante distinguished himself as an intrepid horseman, and aided his Guelph countrymen to crush the might of Arezzo and the Tuscan Ghibellines. The next place of importance is Poppi (p. 401). i. Cam aid oil and Alvernia. An attractive excursion may be undertaken from Vallombrosa to tbe Casentino , or upper valley of the Arno, a district which affords an insight into the scenery of the Apennines. The carriage-road from Pontassieve (p. 397) to the Casentino crosses the Consuma Pass, about 9 M. distant. The expedition is, however, especially suitable for pedestrians. From Vallombrosa a bridle-path (guide necessary, 2 fr.) traverses the brow of the hills, affording a succession of fine views, and leading in 2 hrs. to the Osteria della Consuma , the inn of a small mountain-village. If a carriage can be procured here, the traveller should drive to Bibbiena (15 M.), or at least to Prato - vecchio (10 M.). The road traverses the lonely height of the Monte Consuma for 3 M., after which a view of the valley of the Arno is gradually disclosed. About 6 M. farther, near the extensive CAMALDOLI. 49. Route. 401 of Florence. ruins of the castle of Romena , the road divides; that to the 1. leads to 'Pratovecchio, a short distance farther, and beyond it to Stia. From Pratovecchio pedestrians may proceed by Mog- giona (poor inn) to Camaldoli in 3 hrs. The road to the r. leads by Castel S. Niccolo (p. 400) to Poppi, capital of the valley, si- tuated on a hill rising above the Arno, the old castle of which with lofty tower, erected 1274, has long been visible to the traveller. Passing Ponte a Poppi , a few houses at the foot of the hill, Bibbiena is next reached, 3 M. farther, birthplace (in 1470) of Bernardo Divizio, afterwards Cardinal Bibbiena, the patron of Raphael. From Bibbiena Camaldoli is reached by Soci and Partina in 3 hrs. , Alvernia by the valley of the Corsalone in 2 hrs. The direct footpath between the monas- teries may be traversed in 4 hrs. Pedestrians may therefore reach Camaldoli in one day from Vallombrosa by Consuma and Pratovecchio, and on the following day proceed thence by Al- vernia to Bibbiena. The ancient abbey of Camaldoli lies in a grassy valley surrounded bv forest It- was founded about the year 1000 by St. Romuald, but fre- quently destroyed by fire and devastated by war, in consequence of which the church was re-erected in 1523, and again in 1772.^Here, too, a spacious Foresteriais appropriated to the reception of guests. The environs are wild and beautiful. A winding path ascends rapidly C 3 /^ b r -) to the S aero Monte , a second monasterv with hermitages, founded by St. Romuald in 1046, where the younger monks were subjected to a still more severe discipline. Their prayers are offered 7 times daily, the first time being at 1 a. m. Their cowls are white. The name of the place is said to be derived from Campus Maldoli, in consequence of a pious Count Maldolus, the last proprietor, having presented it to his friend St. Romuald. From this spot the repu- tation of the order for austere discipline, sanctity and erudition extended throughout the whole of Italy, although the number of their cloisters was never great. Camaldoli also lost its valuable library and many trea- sures of art owing to the rapacity of the French in 1808. In 1814 the monastery was restored. The *views from the narrow mountain-ridge at the back of Camaldoli, especially from the summit which is not planted with trees, termed the * Prato al Soglio, are very extensive and beautiful. To theN.E. the houses ofForli may be distinguished, still farther the situation of Ravenna, and in the extreme distance the glittering Adriatic :, W. the chain of the Pratomagno and the green dales, of Vallombrosa, the lower valley of the Arno as far as the Maremme of Pisa and Leghorn, and beyond them the Mediterranean. Thus the spectator here stands on one of the summits of the “backbone of Italy”, whence innumerable mountains and valleys, as well as the two different seas, are visible. Bsedeker. Italy I 26 402 Route 49. ALVERNIA. The source of the Arno (4000 ft.) on the Falterona may be visited hence, and the excursion may be extended to the summit of the mountain by those whose energies are unimpaired. Dante, who in the 14th canto of the Purgatorio describes the course of the Arno, accompanying it from its source to Arezzo and Florence with bitter complaints of the swine of the Casentino, the dogs of Arezzo, the wolves of Florence and the foxes of Pisa, perhaps visited the Monte Falterona in person. Travellers gene- rally proceed from Camaldoli, where an equivalent for its hospitality is presented to the “padre forestieraio”, on mules or donkeys to Alvernia. The S. height is ascended as far as the chapel of St. Romuald; then r. a descent to Moggiona , beyond which the path turns to the 1. , traversing a long and fatiguing succession of gorges and slopes; the path at the base of the mountains is therefore preferable. The market-town of Sod in the valley of the Archiano is first reached, then the profound valley of the Corsalohe; beyond it a blunted cone rises, on which the path ascends in windings to a stony plain with marshy meadows. Above this rises the abrupt sandstone mass of the Vernia , to a height of 800 ft. On its S.W. slope, one-third of the way up, and 3720 ft. above the sea-level, is seen a wall with small windows , the oldest part of the monastery , built in 1218 by St. Francis of Assisi. The church is of 1264. In 1472 a confla- gration entirely destroyed the monastery. The monks, about 120 in number, subsist solely on the gifts of the charitable , but never refuse to receive strangers. The monastery has frequently served as a place of banishment. Beautiful forests are situated in the vicinity , from the openings in which imposing mountain -views are often enjoyed. One of the grandest points is the *Penna della Vernia , or ridge of the Ver- nia , also known simply as VApennino , 4500 ft. above the sea , ‘ the rugged rock between the sources of the Tiber and Arno”, as it is called by Dante (Paradiso II, 106). To the E. are seen the lofty Sassi di Simone , boundary mountains of the Tuscan Romagna in the direction of the republic of San Marino; N.E. the sources of the Tiber are situated behind the Fumajolo. Near the monastery are the Luoghi Santi , a number of grottoes and rock-hewn chambers in which St. Francis once lived. The church contains no pictures worthy of mention, but several excellent reliefs in terracotta, especially an * Annunciation by Luca della Robbia. To the S., not far from the monastery, is situated the ruined castle of Chiusi , occupying the site of the ancient Clusium Novum , where Lodovico Buonarotti, father of Michael Angelo, once held the office of Podesta. The great master himself was born March 6th, 1475, at Caprese , in the valley of the Singerna in the vicinity, but in 1476 his parents removed to Settignano , in the vicinity of the quarries. The traveller is recommended to return from Bibhiena to Florence by Arezzo (diligence daily in 3 hrs. ; one-borse carr. 10 fr.). The road follows the 1. bank of the Arno, passing several small villages, quits the river at Oiovi , and entering the rich Val di Chiana leads to Arezzo (*Le Chiavi d’Oro), l: 1350.000 Bastia Capo della JUorsetta. " ° Golfo di Crovaiu- Porto di OaleritM. l.di (lajyalo / T'nRossa^ Golfo di Porto I u, Puma CapoHosso ° ; flzsafl 1 Golfo Calo^ () ,^g Golfo di Valinco T?.Tovctrui P!'-‘ d'Em'ra g 7^ Senetosa- < ' "M , J’orto di Tixxeuw <%,#& M<’ rlI,U . Pfn ( li Ro(f" pl Golfo .SARDEGNA CORSICA. 50. Route. 403 where a few hours may he agreeably occupied in inspecting the old church of S. Maria della Pieve, the Cathedral and the Museum. From Arezzo to Florence railway in 374 ^ rs - 1 fares 8 fr. 70, 7 fr. 15, 5. fr. 55 c. 50. Corsica. Corsica (French La Corse), situated between 430 and 410 21' N. Latitude, 55 M. distant from Italy and HO M. from France, and separated from Sar- dinia by the Strait of Bonifazio, 9 M. in width, possesses an area of 3365 sq. M. and a population of 259,861 souls. A broad mountain-chain, termi- nating towards the N. in the Capo Corso* consisting of grey granite and limestone formations, occupies almost the entire island. On the W. it rises abruptly from the sea, forming a number of bold promontories and deeply indented bays. On the E. side, towards Italy, the alluvial deposits have beenmore abundant, and have formed a level coast of some breadth. The vast altitude attainedby the mountains within a comparatively small space (e. g. Monte d’Oro 8163 ft., Monte Rotondo 8504ft.) imparts a wild and imposing character to the scenery. Nine-tenths of the entire area of the island are unculti- vated, whilst the mountains for the most part are clothed with magnificent forests. The Flora of the island is remarkable for its rare luxuriance and diversity, comprising specimens of almost every species of plant found on the shores of the Mediterranean. The timber of the island, which was highly esteemed by the ancients, still supplies most of the French and Italian dockyards. Its mineral wealth, however, is far inferior to that of Sardinia. The character of the natives, notwithstanding the levelling and equa- lizing effects of advancing civilisation, corresponds with the wild aspect of their country, and, at least in the more remote districts, still preserves many of those features described by the ancients as peculiar to these islanders. Their insatiable thirst for revenge (vendetta), formerly one of the chief causes of the depopulation of the island, has never been tho- roughly eradicated, although the authorities have adopted the most rigo- rous measures to counteract the evil. The perpetrators of these dark deeds withdraw themselves from the arm of justice and retire as outlaws ( banditti ) to the mountains, where, hunted like wild beasts by a corps of gensdarmes constituted for this express purpose, they frequently protract their miserable existence for many years. At the same time this revenge- ful ferocity is to a certain extent compensated for by bravery, love of freedom, simplicity of manners and hospitality, virtues which usually cha- racterize a vigorous and primitive race. Their ballads, too, and especially their dirges (vocero), are replete with poetical pathos. Moreover, few countries of similar extent have produced more illustrious characters, or witnessed more thrilling achievements, than those recorded m the annals of Corsica. The situation and climate of the island are Italian, as was also its history down to the year 1768. Its union with France has since the com- mencement of the present century been still more closely cemented by its connection with the family of Napoleon. It now forms the 86th De 404 Route 50. CORSICA. partment of the Empire, the capital of which is Ajaccio, and is divided into 5 Arrondissements: Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi, Corte and Sartona. Italian is still the language of the natives, but French is employed for all official purposes and is spoken by all the educated classes. The great attractions of Corsica are its beautiful scenery and its inte- resting historical associations, for it can boast of no antiquities or trea- sures of art. A visit to the island is now easily and expeditiously accom- plished. A week suffices for the ordinary traveller to become acquainted with Ajaccio, Corte (ascent of Monte Rotondo) and Bastia. Those, however, who desire a more thorough insight into the resources of the country and the character of the natives will encounter serious difficulties, which introductions to inhabitants of the island will best enable them to overcome. Steamboats between the mainland and Corsica: a. Valery Co. once weekly from Marseilles to. Ajaccio, fares 30 and 20 fr., to Calvi also once weekly; b. From Nice fortnightly to Ajaccio, also to Bastia; c. From Leghorn 3 times weekly to Bastia in 6 hrs., fares 16 and 13 fr. (incl. fee for embaroation). Also once weekly from Ajaccio to Porto Torres in Sardinia in 7 hrs. Embarcation 1 fr. ; breakfast and dinner 8 fr. in the first, 6 fr. in the second cabin. — Diligence-communication between Ajaccio and Bastia and all the principal places in the island. Corsica, like its sister-island Sardinia, which was peopled by the same race, never attained to a high degree of civilisation in ancient times. The entire island is depicted as having been a wild and impenetrable forest, of very evil reputation. Its possession was nevertheless keenly contested by the great naval powers of ancient times. The Phocseans, banished from Asia by the Persians, founded the town of Alalia (after- wards Aleria) on the E. coast, at the mouth of the Tavignano, B. C. 556. After a great naval battle in 536, however, they were compelled by the allied Etruscans, and Carthaginians to abandon their settlement and mi- grate to Massilia (Marseilles). The island then became subject to the Etruscans, and subsequently to the Carthaginians , from whom it was wrested by the Homans in 238. Under Marius and Sulla the colonies of Aleria and Mariana were established on the E. coast, but were both sub- sequently destroyed. The island was frequently employed as a place of banishment; thus the philosopher Seneca spent 8 years here during the reign of the Emp. Claudius. His account of the country and its inha- bitants is by no means flattering, and the Corsicans occasionally declare that “Seneca era un birbone”. The following lines written by him are to this day partially true: “Prima est ulcisci lex, altera vivere raptu, Tertia mentiri, quarta negare deos”. After the fall of the Western Empire Corsica frequently changed masters; the Vandals, Byzantines, Ostrogoths, Franks and Saracens ra- pidly succeeded each other in its possession. In 1070 the Pisans, and in 1348 the Genoese obtained the supremacy, which the latter retained till the 18th cent. Their oppressive sway, however, gave rise to a long se- ries of conspiracies and insurrections, in many of which a number of re- AJACCIO. 50. Route. 405 Jan 17th 1567) in the 16th. Finally in 1726 the universal disaffection to Genoa began to’ assume a more serious aspect, notwithstanding the efforts made by the Republic to stifle it with the aid of German auxiliaries. The last of a long succession of adventurers was a Baron Theodore Neuhof, son ot a Westphalian noble, who landed on March 12th, 1736, at Aleria, near the mouth of the Tavignano, attended by a number of followers, and provided with warlike equipments. He was shortly afterwards proclaimed king of Corsica, under the title of Theodore I., but his success was short-lived, for the Genoese were assisted by the French. Theodore returned twice subsequently to Corsica, but was ultimately compelled to seek an asylum in London, where he died in obscurity in 1756. Meanwhile the Corsicans, under the command (subsequently to 1755) 'of the heroic Pasquale Paoh f born in 1724 at Stretta, a village among the mountains S.W. ot Bastia, Banker: M. Bozzo , Boulevart Roi Jerome. Steamboats to Marseilles on Tuesdays at 10 a. m., to Rice every alternate Saturday. Diligence daily to Bastia (p. 412), Sartona and Vico. Office in the Cours Napoleon. Post Office in the same street. Ajaccio (pronounced Ajassu in French), with 14,558 mhab.. was founded by the Genoese in 1492, and constituted the capi- tal of the island in 1811 by Napoleon, at the request of his mother Letitia. . It is most beautifully situated in an extensive bay, which extends N. to the Punta della Parata , near the hole Sanguinarie, and S. to the Capo di Muro , whilst the back- ground is formed by .imposing mountains, often covered with a snowy mantle until late in the summer. The town presents a appertained to France. Ajaccio. 5. 3U o CIOCK. notei au auru, iwc u.u . Napoleon and Solferino in the Rue du Marche. 406 Route 50. AJACCIO. Corsica. somewhat deserted aspect, although great improvements have taken place of late years. The broad Place and Rue du Marche, one of the principal streets in the town, adorned with a fountain and a marble sta- tue of Napoleon I., leads from the harbour to the Place d'Armes. To the r. in the Place du Marche, at the point where the Boule- vart Roi Jerome diverges, is situated the Hotel de Ville , with a library on the ground-floor. On the first floor in the *Recep- tion Hall, adorned with busts and pictures illustrative of the history of the family of Napoleon. The Rue Fesch, the next street to the r., leads to the Col- lege Fesch, which contains a large collection of pictures, most of them copies, and casts (admission gratis on Sundays, 12—4 o’clock; at other times by payment of a fee), bequeathed to the town by Cardinal Fesch and augmented by gifts from the Emperor. By the street to the 1. opposite to the fountain, then by the third transverse street to the r., the stranger reaches the small Place Letizia, where the house in which Napoleon was born is situated (the concierge lives opposite, fee 1 fr.). It is preserved m its original condition, but presents nothing remarkable beyond its historical association. A small room, with two windows, a cupboard in the wall and a marble chimney-piece, is pointed out as that in which Napoleon was born (Aug. 15th, 1769). The family of Buonaparte appears to have emigrated in the 16th cent, from Sarzana in Tuscany, perhaps with the powerful Malaspinas, to Cor- sica. Messire Francesco Buonaparte, the eldest of the family, died at jaccio, in 1567. Napoleon’s father, Carlo Maria Buonaparte, born at Ajaccio, March 29th, 1746, was educated at a school founded by Paoli at Corte, and subsequently studied law at Pisa. He then became an advo- cate at Ajaccio, where he enjoyed considerable popularity, but was soon appointed by Paoli his secretary at Corte. After the disastrous battle of Ponte Nuovo, May 9th, 1769, in consequence of which Corsica lost its in- ependence to France, Carlo fled with his young wife Letitia Ramolini to the Monte Rotondo. He shortly afterwards returned to Ajaccio, where the French General Marbeuf, the conqueror of Corsica, accorded him protection, and where, about two months later, Napoleon was born. In 1777 arlo was appointed deputy of the nobility for Corsica, and travelled via Florence to Paris. He died at Montpellier in February^ 1785. Napoleon, then 16 years of age, having quitted the school at Brienne two years pre- viously, was studying at the Ecole Militaire at Paris. The letter of con- dolence which he wrote to his mother on the occasion is still extant. unng his visits to Ajaccio his favourite retreat was Milelli, a small country-house in the neighbourhood. After the storming of the Bastille Corsica. AJACCIO. 50. Route. 407 in 1789 and the great succeeding crisis , Napoleon with his elder brother Joseph warmly espoused the popu.ar cause at Ajaccio. He then > repaid to Marseilles to welcome Paoli on his return from exile, and the lat er prophesied on this occasion that a great destm y was in store for *he youth. In 1791 Napoleon obtained the command of the newly constituted Cor sican bullions, and in this capacity practically comments £*£ career. In 1792, Paoli, dissatisfled with the proceedings of bapoleon, sent him to S. Bonifacio, to join the expedition against S^dima. This, however, proved an utter failure, and on January 22th, 1793 Napoleon narrowly escaped being slain by insurgents. Shortly afterwards hebroke off his connection with Paoli and was compelled to quit Corsica with his family. During the zenith of his power the Emperor evinced little par- tiality for his native island, which he visited for the last time ra S op- tember 29th, 1799, on his return from Egypt. During his exile m the island of St Helena, however, his thoughts appear frequently to Jiave rever e to Corsica. “What reminiscences Corsica has left to me. he was fr - quentlv heard to exclaim; “I still think with pleasure of its its beautiful scenery; I still remember the fragrance which it exhales^ Autommarchi, Napoleon's physician in St, Helena, and the .pneft. V gr , who performed the last offices of religion, were Corsicans, and shared the fate of their illustrious compatriot. The * Cathedral , dating from the Genoese period, where Na- poleon was baptized on July 22nd, 1771, contains (since 1851), in a small chapel on the r. side of the choir, monuments of Le- titia Kamolini, the mother of Napoleon, who died on Feb. 2nd, 1836, in her palace at Rome, and her half-brother Cardinal Fesch, who died at Rome in 1839. The Place d'Armes is adorned with a bronze statue of the great Emperor, his looks turned towards the sea in the direction of France, surrounded by his four brothers Joseph, T.ucien, Louis and Jerome. The inscription records that the monument was erected by “grateful Corsica” by voluntary subscriptions , and inaugurated in 1865. In the Cours Napoleon, which diverges opposite to this Place, is situated the palace of the Pozzo di'.Borgo , one of the most distinguished Corsican families. Carlo Andrea Pozzo di Borgo, horn on March 8th, 1768, an early friend of Napoleon, a democrat and adherent of Paoli, afterwards became the Emperor’s bitterest enemy. He subsequently became a Russian counsellor of state, and in 1802 was created a count and appointed ambassador, in which capacity he indefatigahly devoted his energies to oppo- sing his illustrious countryman. He proved a great benefactor to Corsica, which he frequently visited. He died at Pans in 408 Route 50. BONIFAZIO, Corsica. 1842. His nephew, the heir to his extensive property, after- wards fell a victim to Corsican revenge. The Cours Napoleon terminates in the high road to Bastia. To ^ ie r -’ ou tside the gate, is the monument of General Abba - tucci, a. Corsican who fell in 1796, whilst defending the town of Huningue. This road affords a pleasant and animated pro- menade. Adjoining it is the Botanical Garden which merits a visit. The road on the N. side of the bay, passing the new Hos- pice Eugenie , although destitute of shade, also affords a char- ming walk. The gardens here contain numerous family burial- places and chapels. From Ajaccio to S. Bonifazio, and to Bastia by the E. Coast. The carriage-road from Ajaccio to Calvi (p. 413) is not yet entirely completed. Diligence as far as Vico. - From Ajaccio to Bonifazio by the road 85 M. ; diligence daily to Sartona, 52 M. distant. The fortress of Bonifazio (3380 ft.) is picturesquely situated on a pro- minent and lofty rock. It possesses high and dilapidated houses, of the Pisan and Genoese periods, and narrow, unattractive streets. The principal street is termed Piazza Doria. The town was founded in 883 by the Tuscan Marquis Bonifazio, after a naval victory over the Saracens. 11 Tornone , a large tower of that remote date, is still extant. Bonifazio sub- sequently came into the possession of the Pisans, then into that of the Genose, by whom it was treated with marked favour. In return for this partiality this town, as well as Calvi, remained inviolably faithful to Genoa, as was proved in 1420 by its memorable defence against King Alphonso I. of Arragon. In 1541 the Emp. Charles V., on his return from the expedition against Algiers, paid a visit to Bonifazio. The house of Filippo Cataecioli, in which the Emperor lodged, is still pointed out. The town once boasted of 20 churches, of which the cathedral of S. Maria del Fico i the handsome Gothic church of S. Domenico, with numerous tomb- stones of Templar knights and Genoese nobles, and the small church of S. Francescp (with a spring, the only one which the town possesses) now alone remain. A stone bench above the Marina of Bonifazio, by the old gate of the fortress, near the small chapel of S. Rpcco , commands a charming *view, especially by evening-light, of the strait, which separates Corsica from Sardinia. On the opposite coast the town of Lunga Sardo , with its light- house, is visible; farther distant, a series of watch-towers on the shore maybe distinguished; on the 1. lies the island of S. Maddalena. On the coast below Bonifazio are situated three beautiful and imposing *Orottoes , which visitors explore by boat. The distance from Bonifazio to Bastia is 921/2 M. The E. coast of Corsica is somewhat bleak and desolate. The road leads past the bay of Corsica. VIVARIO. 50. Route. 409 S. Manza to (161/4 M.) Porto Vecchio, the only good harbour constructed by the Genoese, and supposed to occupy the site of the ancient Portus Syra- cusanorum. Hence to the mouth of the Tavignano (no bridge) 441/2 M., where, near the lake of Diana, the ancient town of Aleria was situated. Fragments of masonry and vaulting and remnants of a circus are still to be seen. Coins, vases and inscriptions have also been found here. The modern Aleria consists of the Genoese castle and a small group of houses only, for this coast, owing to the want of cultivation , is marshy and un- healthy. Here, on March 12th, 1736, the adventurer Neuhof landed from an English vessel, and on April 15th was crowned king, a dignity he en- joyed for a verv brief period. On the heights, 16 M. farther N., lies Cervione , where Neuho'f once held his court. The river Oolo , often nearly dry in summer, is next crossed. In the extensive plain at its mouth, on the 1. bank, once lay Mariana , the Roman colony founded by Marius, the remains of which are visible on the shore, 3 M. from the road. The rums of a beautiful chapel, and of a church termed La Canonica , a basilica ot noble proportions, in the Pisan style, are situated here. From Ajaccio to Bastia. 95 M. Dili g e n c e daily in 20 hrs., usually starting at 11 a. m., and halting for dinner at Vivario at 7 p. m. (dinner at Corte on the return- journey). The service is well performed, and horses are frequently changed. In- terieur 16, coupe 24 fr.^ from Ajaccio to Corte 12 and 18 fr. — Omnibus from Corte to Bastia daily at 6 a. m. in 8—10 hrs. The road traverses the well cultivated plain of Campoloro (i. e. - Campo deW Oro), which extends to the S. half of the hay of Ajaccio, and is watered by the Grav one. The road follows the stream and ascends. The scenery gradually becomes more attrac- tive, magnificent forest clothes the slopes, and several beautiful retrospects are enjoyed. Beyond Bogognano (25 M. from Ajaccio) the Gravone is quitted , and a mountain , 3500 ft. high , tra- versed. On the N. towers the Monte d'Oro, a few hundred feet, lower than Monte Rotondo (p. 411), but of more imposing pro- portions; on the S. rises the Monte Renoso. The road next tra- verses the great forest of Vizzarona and descends rapidly to the pleasant mountain-village of Vivario. It then turns N. and skirts the base of the Monte Rotondo, leading through a wooded and well-cultivated tract, past the villages of Serraggio, Capo Veccliio, S. Pietro and Corte. Pursuing the same direction, the road next reaches the Goto , the principal river of the island, at Ponte alia Leccia , 12’/2 M. from Corte. A road leads hence to Calvi, 461/ 4 M. distant, to which a diligence runs. It proceeds to the E. by Morbsaglia and Porta, and descends to the coast Porta was the birthplace (1775) of Marshal Sebastiani (d. at Paris in 1851), 410 Route 50. CORTE. Corsica. father of the Duchess of Praslin, who was murdered by her husband in 1847. Several miles higher up lies the Canton Rostino , or Morosaglia, the native place of the Paoli family. A dilapidated cottage is still pointed out in the hamlet of Stretta, as that in which Pasquale Paoli was born in 1724. His father Hyacinth was a physician and poet, and at the same time leader of the Corsicans ; his mother Dionysia Valentina was a native of the neighbouring Pontenuovo. Anecdotes of his noble and heroic cha- racter are still current in this district; his memory is also perpetuated by a school, established in an old monastery at Morosaglia with funds bequeathed by him for the purpose. An apartment in the same monastery was once occupied by Pasquale Paoli as his study, and here his elder brother Cle- ment, once a general, afterwards a monk, died in 1798. The latter, who distinguished himself at the battle of Borgo, on the river Golo (see below), in 1768, was endowed with the same noble and heroic disposition as his brother. The road to Bastia follows the r. bank of the Golo, which it crosses at (5 M.) Pontenuovo. Here, on May 9th, 1769, the de- cisive battle was fought, by which the subjugation of Corsica: was effected. The Golo is followed as far as the point where the road unites with that from Bonifazio (p. 408). A road leads S. from the river to (4 3 /4 M.) the village of Vescovato , situated among mountains and forests of chestnuts, and containing the house of Pietro Filippini, the Corsican historian of the 16th cent. His work was republished at Pisa in 1827, having been edited by the learned Gregori at the instance of the Corsican Pozzo di Borgo. Here also' is situated the chateau of Count Matteo Buttafuoco (now the property of the family of Marshal Sebastiani), who when a young French officer invited Rousseau to Vescovato, in consequence of the following passage in his “Contrat Social” alluding to the Corsicans: “The vigour and perseverance with which these brave people have succeeded in gaining and defending their liberty merit for them that some wise man should teach them how to preserve it. I have a certain presentiment that this island will one day cause astonishment to the whole of Europe”. The latter prediction was fulfilled 20 years after Rousseau’s death (1778), although in a very different manner from that which the philosopher had in view. The road now leads direct to the N. ; the coast is flat and full of lagoons. To the 1. on the heights lies Borgo , where the French were defeated by Clement Paoli, Oct. 1st, 1768. Corte and the Monte Rotondo. Corte ( *Hotel de VEurope, with two cafes and the diligence- office, at the extremity of the town towards Bastia; dejeuner at 11, diner at 6 o’clock), with 5754 inhab., a sous-prefecture and capital of an Arrondissement, lies on the Tavignano , surrounded by mountains. It is commanded by a lofty citadel, which ren- Corsica. MONTE ROTONDO. 50. Route. 411 dered. it an important and keenly-contested point in the wars of former centuries. At the time of Paoli it was the central point of his democratic government. His study, with window shutters lined with cork, by way of additional precaution, and the coun- cil-chambers are still shown at the Palazzo di Corte. An uni- versity, printing-office and newspaper were also established here by Paoli. The Corsican parliament of that period held its ses- sions at the neighbouring Franciscan monastery. Marble-quar- ries are worked in the vicinity. The Place Paoli , the principal square, is embellished with a bronze statue of the noble-minded patriot, erected in 1854. Two or three hundred Arabian shikhs and cadis from Algiers, who took an active part in the late insurrections, are incarcerated in the citadel here. The Monte Rotondo is most conveniently ascended from Corte. The night before the ascent may be spent in one of the uninviting chalets at the base, or the traveller may prefer to return to Corte on the same day. In the latter case a journey of 14 hrs. at least, partly on horseback, partly on foot, must be reckoned upon. Guide and mule about 20 fr. A supply of provisions necessary. The ascent is not easily accomplished except in the summer months. At an early hour the traveller ascends the val- ley of the wild Restonica, which here falls into the Tavignano after a course of 35 M. A broad and wooded dale is at first traversed, beyond which the path becomes a mere shepherd’s track. Pine and larch forest afford shade, whilst bleak open tracts and sequestered chalets, some of them 5000 ft. above the sea-level, are also occasionally passed. After a ride of 3 hrs., the Rota del Dragone, a grotto in the rocks affording shelter to 200 sheep and goats, recalling Homer’s description of the Cave of Polyphe- mus, is attained. The Co di Mazzo , the last shepherds’ station, in- habited only during the summer, is reached after 2 hrs. more. These rude hovels, beautifully situated on one of the lower buttresses of the Monte Rotondo, afford shelter for the night in case of necessity (milk and cheese only to be had). Then across seve- ral rocky ridges in 2 hrs. more to the Trigione, the last spur of the Rotondo, a wilderness of blocks of granite. The crater-sha- ped, snow-capped summit is visible hence*, below it lies the small and clear Lago di Monte Rotondo; in the foreground, green pas- 412 Route 50, BASTIA. Corsica. tures. Fields of snow and ice, rising from the lake, must be laboriously traversed (2 hrs.) before the summit (8504 ft.) is attained. A magnificent ^Panorama is here enjoyed. The spec- tator surveys the greater part of the island; N. the Capo Gorso: W. the bays of Porto, Sagona and Ajaccio; E. the blue Mediter- ranean , with the islands of Monte Cristo , Pianosa , Capraia and Elba, and the mainland of Italy; then the white Alpes Maritimes, extending from Toulon and Nice to Genoa. Corsica itself resem- bles a vast rocky relief-map; its principal mountain-chains, with their rivers and valleys , are distinctly recognisable. Towards the S. however, the view is obstructed by the broad and massive Monte d’Oro. In the neighbourhood of the summit lie a num- ber of desolate valleys, in most of which small lakes are situa- ted. Their discharge descends to form the Restonica. The de- scent may be made on the side next to the Lago di Pozzolo, where the dark rocky pyramid of the Frate (monk) rises. Violets and forget-me-not (here popularly termed the “miraculous flower of the mountains”) grow abundantly in the rocky clefts on the banks of the lake. The muffro, or mufflone, the wild horned sheep of Corsica, of a dark brown colour, with silky hair, browse on these lofty summits. Bandits (i. e. outlaws, those under a ban) are also occasionally encountered, but these unfortunate outcasts seldom or never molest strangers (comp. p. 403). The huts of Co di Mazzo may now be regained in 3 hrs., and Corte in 4 — 5 hrs. more. Bastia. *Hotel de l 1 Europe, Rue de l’lntendance, 6 fr. per diem; Hotels de France and dltalie in the Boulevart de Paoli. — Restaurant de la Paix, in the Boulevart; ~Cafe Univers Guitton. Diligences daily to Ajaccio, to Luri and Rogliano on the Capo Corso, and to S. Fiorehzo and Balagna. Steamboat Offices: Yalery Co. (to Nice), near the harbour; Va- pori Italian! (to Leghorn), in the Boulevart. Bastia, with 21,535 inhab., the busiest commercial place in the island and till 1811 its capital, was founded in 1380 by the Genoese and defended by a strong castle (whence the name of the town, signifying “bastion”). The cathedral of Giovanni Battista contains several ancient tombs. In S. Croce rich deco- rations in marble. The former college of the Jesuits contains a library of 30,000 vols. and natural history collections. The Corsica. CALVI. 50. Route. 413 Promenade on the coast is embellished with a marble statue of Napoleon. The inscription mentions Corsica in consequence of its connection with Napoleon, as “quasi gentium principal clonatam.” (?) The old town with the citadel rises above the more modern quarter situated near the harbour. Beautiful walk along the coast towards the N., where a number of easily attained heights afford a variety of fine views of the sea and coast. From Bastia to Capo Corso, S. Fiorenzo and Calvi. A very attractive excursion may be made to tbe long and narrow peninsula in which the Serra Mts. rise, culminating in the Monte Altic- cione and Monte Stello (5000 ft.) and terminating in the Capo Corso (Promontorium Sacrum) on the N. Beautiful valleys descend from these mountains on the E. and W. A good road leads along the coast from Bastia, passing several ancient watch-towers of the Pisans and Genoese and affording a view of the picturesque islands of Elba, Capraia and Monte Cristo. At Brando there is a Stalactite Cavern , surrounded by pleasant gardens. Luri possesses a charming valley, watered by se- veral streams and producing a luxuriant growth of grapes, oranges and lemons. The Serra is then crossed to Pino on the W, side, with villas and beautiful gardens. At the extremity of the promontory , to the N. beyond Rogliano and Ersa , rises a lighthouse. An ancient, half- ruined circular structure near it is popularly, but groundlessly termed the “Tower of Seneca”. A road leads from Bastia across the Serra to the (133/ 4 M.) small seaport of S. Fiorenzo, charmingly situated on the bay of that name on the W side of the island, and commanded by a fort. In the neighbouring low ground formerly lay the medieeval town of Nebbio , the ruined cathe- dral, of which (S. Maria Assunta), of the 12th cent., stands on an eminence. The road proceeds hence in the vicinity of the sea, crosses the small river Ostriconi and reaches the small , but thriving seaport-town of Isola Rossa , founded in 1758 by Pasquale Paoli, nowith standing the war in which he was then engaged with Genoa. Its appellation is derived from three red cliffs rising from the sea in front of the harbour. The environs are delightful; the view from the Monte S. Reparata , surmounted by a deserted church, is especially beautiful by evening-light. The road then leads to Algajola, a deserted old town on the coast, with marble quarries in the vicinity. During the Genoese period it was fortified and formed the central point of the fertile district of Balagna. The loftily situated village of Lumio , farther on, with its orange-planta- tions and hedges of cactus, commands a beautiful view of the valley and the town of Calvi (43 M. from S. Fiorenzo), an important and fortified place .during the Genoese period, noted for its faithful adherence to the Republic, and in 1794 bravely defended against the English by the French commandant Casabianca. The natives of the place maintain that Columbus 414 Route 50. CAL VI. was born here and that the name still exists. Traces of the English bombardment are still distinguishable. The principal church contains the tombs of the Baglioni family, who bore the surname Liberta, from having distinguished themselves in the 15th and 16th cent. The environs of Calvi are marshy. Charming view of the bay, with the promontory of RiveVata, and of the rocky mountains of Calenzana , to the E. of the town. A diligence runs from Calvi, traversing the beautiful and fruitful valley of the Balagna (where the powerful Malaspina family dwelt for centuries), enclosed by lofty mountains, to Novella , the last village, then through nar- row rocky ravines to Ponte, alia Leccia in the valley of the Golo, where the high road from Bastia to Ajaccio is reached. 415 INDEX. Abano 221. S. Abbondio 165.171 Acbsenberg, tbe 50. Aequa Buja 311. Acquanegra 192. Acqui 18o. Adda, the 62. 69. etc. Adelsberg 91. Adige, tbe 67. 79. etc. Adria 222. Adriatic, tbe 264. 265. etc. Aemilia , Via 266. S. Agata 175. Agay 33. Agedincum 3. Agno, tbe 171. Agram 89. Agums 68. _ Ajaccio 405. Aigle 43. Aiguebelle 38. Aigues Mortes 22. Ain, the 8. 36. Ainay 10. Airan 22. Airolo 53. Aix 26. Aix-les-Bains 36. Ala 79. Alais 22. Alassio 125. Alba 139. Albaredo, Monte 107. Albarine, the 36. Albenga 125. S. Alberto 288. Albesio 159. Alb: g annum 125. Alb men 44. Aleria 409. Alessandria 185. Aletseh-Glacier, the 45. Alfonsine 309. Alfort 1. Algabv Gallery, the 45 Algajola 413. Aloxe 5. Alpes Maritimes, the 138. Alpienbach, the 46. Alpines, the 20. Alpnach 48. Alseno 266. Alserio, Lago 157. Alticcione, Monte 413. Altinum 261. Altopascio 335. Altorf 50. Alvemia 402. Amberieu 36. Ambrogiana, Villa 325. S. Ambrogio (near Mo- dena) 268. — (near Turin) 40. — (near Varese) 173. St. Amour 8. Amstag 51. Ancona 295. Andeer 59. Andermatt 52. Andes 212. St. Andre, Grotto of 135. — chateau 135. St. Andrea del Lido, is- land 265. . Anemo 288 Angera 179. Annecy 37. Anndne 113. — , Lago d" 159. Antibes 34. Antignago 313. Antipolis 34. S. Antonio 70. — , Cantoniera 53. Anzasca Valley 48. Aosta 109. Apennines, the 111. 183. etc. Aposa, the 278. Aprica 200. — , Passo d 1 200. Aquae Allobrogum or — Gratianae 36. — Fatavinae 221. — Sextiae 26. — Statielae 185. Aquileia 264. Arausio 15. Arbedo 63. . Arc, the 38. Archiano, the 402. Arco 82. Areola 327. Arcole 213. Arcs, Les 33. Arda, the 266. Ardenza 313. Ardo, the 262. Arelate 23. Arena-Po 111. Arenzana 124. Arezzo 402. Argegno 161. Argenta 309. Ariminum 290. Arlberg, the 65. Arles 23. Annancon, the 3. Armeno 181. Amo, the 315. 349. etc. Arona 178. Arqua 222. Ascona 175. Asiago 80. Aspremont, the 135. Assina, Vail 1 157. Asso 157. Asti 113. Astico, the 81. Ateste 222. Athenaeum 10. Atlitzgraben, the Obere and Unt-ere 86. Attinghausen 51. Atzwang 76. Aubagne 32. Auer 77. Augusta Praetoria Salas - so rum 109. — Taurinorum 97. Ausa, the 291. Auxerre 3. Auximum 297. Avenio 17. Avenza 323. Averser Khein, the 59. Avigliana 40. A-rignon 17. Avio 79. Avisio, the 77. Azi, Mont d 1 37. Bacchiglione, the 214. Bacher Mts., the 88. Badagnano 112. Badelwand, the 87. Baden 85. Bagnacavallo 300. Bagni 221. — Caldi 335. — di S. Giuliano 330. — di Lucca 335. — di Nerone 334. Bagnolo 192. 212. |Bagneau 33. INDEX. 416 Balagna_413. Baldichieri 113. Baldo, Monte 79 . 82. Balerna 168. Bale 6. Balferin, the 44. Balino 83. Balm Glacier, the 45. Bandol 32. Baracca 327. Baradello, Castello 157. Barbentane 20. Barberino 311. Bard, Fort 107. Bardolino 83. Bardonneche 38. Barenburg, the 59. Bargilio 335. Barni 157. Barasso 167. Barro, the 156. S. Bartolo 94. — , Monte 292. S . Bartolommeo, Monte84. Bassano 81. Bastia 412. Batia, La 43. Batie, chat. 37. Battaglia 222. — , Canale di 221. Baveno 47. 176. Beaucaire 20. Beaulieu 136. Beaune 5. Beauregard, chat. 15. Beckenried 49. Bedarrides 16. Bedretto, Val 53. Belbo, the 140. Belgiojoso 192. Belgirate 178. Bella, Isola 177. Bellaggio 161. Bellano 165. Bellegarde 36. Bellinzona 55. Belluno 262. Benacus, Lacus 83. S. Benedetto 282. 289. Beni, Monte 311. Berceau, the 128. Bergamasco 140. Bergamo 190. Bergeggi Pass, the 125. Berici, Monti 213. Berisal 45. Bernabo 335. St. Bernard, the Great 110 . S. Bernardino Pass, the 62. S. Bernardino 63. Bernese Alps, the 49, Bernina, the 71. 200. Berre 26. BertinOro 289.. Besagno, the 326. Besancon 7. Beseno, castle 79. Bevera, the 137. Beverin, Piz 58. Bex 43. Bez/.ecca 83. S. Biagio, Isola di 84. Bianco Canal, the 222. Biandrone, Lago di 167. Biasca 54. Bibbiena 401. Biella 141. Bientina , Lago di 324. 335. Bietschhorn, the 44. Binago 1 166. Binasco 187. Bironico 55. Bisbino, Monte 160. Bisenzio, the 340. Bissone 169. Bistriza, the 91. Biturrita 16. Blaisy-Bas 4. Blegno, Val 54. Blumau 76. Boara 222. Bobbio 112. Bodio 54. Boesio, the 167. Bogliasco 326. Bogognano 409. Bois-le-Roi 2. Bolet.to 182. Bolladore 71. Bologna 277. *Accademia delle Belle Arti 284. Archives 284. Arciginnasio 284. *S. Bartolommeo di Porta Ravegnana 282. *S. Cecilia 282. *Certosa 287. Collegio di Spagna; 284. S. Domenico 281. *S. Giacomo Maegiore 281. *S. Giovanni in Monte 282. ' Library 284. *Madonna di S. Luca 287. S . Martino Maggiore 282 *S. Michele inBosco 286. La Montagnola 286. Museum of Antiquities 284. Palazzo Arcivescovile 283. Bologna. *Palazzo Baciocchi 283 — Bentivoglio 283. — Bevilacqua Vin- cenzi 283. r — Fava 283. * — della Mercanzia 286. *— Pepoli 283. *— del Podesta 279. *— Pubblico 279. — Tanari 283. — Zambeccari di S. Paolo 283. — Zampieri 283. *S. Petronio 280. *Piazza Vittorio Ejnma- nuele 279. *S. Pietro 281. Portico de 1 Banchi 280. *S. Stefano 282. Torre Asinelli 286. Torre Garisenda 286. *University 283. *S . Vitale ed Agric,ola282 Bolzanero 186. Bolzano 182. Bolzano s. Bozen. Bonaduz 57. S. Bonifacio 213. S. Bonifazio (Cors.) 408. Bonowicz, chateau 89. Borbone, the 113. Bordighera 126. Borghetto 327. Borgo 80. — (Corsica) 410. — a Bugiano 335. — San Donnino 266, — S. Giorgio 210. — Lavezzaro 184. — Panigale 310. — Sesia 183. — Ticino 184. — Vercelli 141. — Vico 160. 167. Borgoforte 273. Borgomanero 182. Bormida, the 185. Bormio 70. Borromean Islands, the 177. Boruniza, the 91. Bosaro 222. Bourg 35. Bourg St. And^ol 15. Bourget, Lac du 36. Bourgogne, theCanal de3. Bouveret 42. Bozen 76. Bozzolo 203. Bra 139. Bracco 326. Bramant d'Essillon 39- Brandizzo 141. Brando 413. Branzoll 77. Brauglio, the 69. Braus, Col di 137. Ere 171. — , Monte 171. Bregaglia, Val 61. Breglio 137. Brennbuchl 65. Brenner 73. Brennersee, the 73. Brenno, the 54. Breno 199. Brenta, the 80. 216. Brescia 192. Bressana 189. Bressanone 75. Briancon 104. Brianza, the 156. Bricon 4. Brieg 44. Brienna 161. Briglia, La 341. Brione, Monte 82. Brionian Islands, the 94. Brissago 175. Brixen 75. Brixener Klause, the 74. Broteaux, les 9. Brou, Church of 35. Brouis, Col di 137. Brozzi 325. Bruck 86. Brunn 85. Brunnen 50. Brunnsee, chateau 88. Bruno 140. Brunoy 1. Buccione 182. Buco di Vela 82. Buffalora, the 63. Buochs 49. — Lake of 49. Buon-Consiglio,castle78 Burano 261. Burgeis 67. Biir'genstock, the 49. Bur glen 51. Busalla 186. Busto Arsizio 179. Buttier, the 109. Buttrio 264. Cabbiolo 63. Cabillonum 6. Cadempino 56. Cadenabbia 162. Cadenazzo 55. Caesarea 308. Cafaggiolo 311. Cagne 35. Cairo 185. Bsedeker. Italy I. INDEX. Calamandrana 139. Calanda, the 57. Calcababbio 189. Calcaccia, the 53. Calceranica 80. Calci, Valle dei 323. Caldiero 213. Caldonazzo 80. Calenzana 414. Calenzano 341. Calliano 78. Caltignaga 182. Caluso 106. Calvi 413. Calvo, Monte 135. Cama 63. Caxnaldoli 401. Camargue, the 26. Cambiano 113. Camerano 297. Camerlata 157. Camignone 197. Camnago 157. Camoghe, Monte 56. Camonica, Val 199. Campaldino 400. Campo(Lake of Como)161 — (Lake of Garda) 83. — Dolcino 60. — Formio 263. Campoloro 409. Camporciero, Val di 108. Candelo 141. Canelli 139. Cannero 175. Cannes 34. Canobbino, Val 175. Canobbio 175. Canonica, La 409. Canossa 267. Canova 57. Cantalupo 140. Cantone, Isola del 186. S. Canzian 91. Canzo 157. Caorso 203. Capo dlstria 94. — Nero 126. Vecchio 409. Capo di Ponte (near Bel luno) 262. — (Val Camonica) 199. Capolago 168. Capraja 325. Caprese 402. Caprino, Monte 171. Carate 154. Caravaggio 201. Carelli, Monte 311. Carema 107. Careno 161. Carignano 140. Carlotta, Villa 162. 417 Carmagnola 140. Carnian Alps, the 89. Carona 171. Carpentoracte 16. Carpentras 16. Carpi 212. Carrara 328. Carsaniga 156. Carso, the 91. Casalhuttano 201. C as ale 141. Casalecchio 310. Casaletto 201. Casalmaggiore 203. Casalpusterlengo 192.266. Casarsa 263. Casarza 326. S. Casciano 289. Cascina 324. Case Bruciate 295. Casentino, Valley 400. Caslino 157. Cassano 159. 189. Cassina 168. Cassis 32. Castagnole 139. Castagnovizza 264. Casteggio 110. Castel Arquato 266. — Bolognese 288. 300. — S. Giovanni 111. — Guelfo 266. — S. Leo 291. — Maggiore 227. — S. Pietro 287. — S. Niccolo 401. Castelfidardo 297. Castelfranco (Romagna) 268. — (Venetia) 81. Castellar 128. Castellatsch 59. Castelleone 201. Castelletto 83. Castello 156. 341. Castellucchio 203. Castelnuovo 84. 140. 192. Castiglione 191. St. Caterina 70. Catini, Monte 335. Cattajo, castle 221. Cattolica, La 291 . Cava 189. Cava Tigozzi 192. Cavalier Maggiore 139. Cavo Tassone, Canal 226. Celle 310. Cemhra, Val 77. Cemenelium 134. Ceneda 262. Cenere, Monte 55. Cenis, Mont 40. Centallo 139. 27 418 Cento 226. Centre , the Canal du 6. Ceppina 70. Ceraino 79. Ceresio, the Lago 168. Ceriale 125. Cerro 113. Certosa di Bologna 287. — di Pavia 187. — di Pisa 323. — di Val d’Ema 390. — di Yal P6sio 139. Cervia 310. Cervione 409. Cervo 126. Cesanne 104. Cesena 289. Cesenatico 310. Cessano, the 294. Cesson 1. Cetica 400. Cette 23. Le 399. Chahlis 3. Chagny 6. Challant, Val de 108. Chalons-sur-Saone 6. St. Chamas 26. Chambave 109. Chambery 37. Chambre, La 38. Chamousset 38. Champorcher, Yal 108. Charenton 1. Charmettes, Les 37. Chasse 12. Chat, Mont du 37. Chateaunekf 15. Chateau Neuf (Nice) 135. Chatillon (near Aosta) 108 — (Savoy) 36. Chatillon- sur- Seine 4. Chauve, Mont 135. Chegino 181. Chernex 42. Chiana, Val di 402. Chiasso 168. — , Ponte 168. Chiavari 326. Chiavenna 61. — , the 203. Chiese, the 191. Chignin, chat. 37. Chignolo 192. Chillon, castle of 42. Chioggia 235. Chiusa di Verona 79. Chiusi 402. Chivasso 106. 141. Chur 56. Churburg, the 67. Cicognolo 203. Cilli 89. INDEX. Cimella or Cimies 134. Cimone, Monte 276 . 400. Ciotat, La 32. Ciraun 59. Ciriaco, Monte 295. Cittanova 94. Cittiglio 167. Civate 159. Civenna 157. Civiasco 182. Cividale 263. Cividate 199. Clarens 42. Claro 54. Clastidium 110. Claudia Celleia 89. Clavenna 61. Clusium Novum 402. Clusone, the 104. Coccaglio 191. Cocquio 161. Codogno 192. 266. Codroipo 263. Cogoleto 124. Coire 56. Colico 62. 166. Collonges 36. Colma, Col di 182. Colognola 213. Colombano, Monte 70. Colombier, the 36. Colonges 42. Colorno 273. Comabbio, Lago di 167. Comacina, Isola 161. Combs-la-Ville 1. Comerio 167. Como 157. — , the Lake of 159. Compiobbi 397. Conca, the 291. Conegliano 262. Conero, Monte 297. Conflnale, Monte 70. Coni 138. Consandolo 309. Consuma Pass, the 400. Coppa, the 110. Corbeil 1. Corciago 46. Corenno 165. Corgoloin 5. Cormons 264. Cornio, Col di 138. Corno, the 263. — dei tre Signori 69. Correggio 267. Corsalone, the 401. Corsica 403. Corso, Capo 413. Corte 410. Corteno 200. Corteolona 192. Corticella 227. Cosciago 167. St. Cosme 6. Costigliole 139. Cote d’Or, the 5. Cote Rotie, La 13. Cottian Alps, the 97. 139, Courmayeur 110. Courtheson 16. Covelo 80. Covigliajo 311. Cragno 168. Crau, the plain of 26. Credo, Tunnel du 36. Crema 201. Cremeo 63. Cremia 165. Cremona 201. Cremusina, La 54. Cresciano 54. Crestola, Morfte 328. Creuzot 6. Cribiaschina, the 54. Crillon, canal de 19. Cristallo, Monte 69. Croce 172. — , Capo della 126. — , Santa- 262. Crocetta, La 268. Crocione, Monte 163. 172 . Croisiere, La 15. Croix Rousse, La 8. Crostolo, the 267. Crussol 14. Cucciago 157. Cularo 14. Culoz 36. Cumano 82. Cuneo 138. Curone, the 110. — , Ponte 110. Curver, Piz 58. Custozza 80. Cuvio, Val 167. St. Cyr 32. Dala, the Gorge of the 44. Daila 94. S. Dalmazzo 138. — , Abbey 138. S. Damiano 113. Darfo 199. Dazio Grande 53. Bertona 110. Dervio 165. Desago 171. Desenzano 84. Devil’s Bridge, the 52. Diana, lake of 409. Diano Castello 126. — Marino 126. Diavolo, Ponte del 71. Diecimo 335. Dijon 4. Disentis 57. Disgrazia, Monte della 72. Divazza 91. Diveria, the 45. Docce Basse 335. Doccia, La 341. 394. — , Villa 395. Doire, the 107. 108 etc. Dolo 216. Domaso 166. Domeliara 80. Domleschg 57. Domo d’Ossola 46. Donat 59. Dongo 165. Donnaz 107. S. Donnino 325. Donzere Ip.. Dora Baltea, the 107, 108 etc. ~ — Riparia, the 40. 105 etc. Dorio 165. Dos Trento 78. Dossobuono 209. Doubs, the 6. 7. Drachenhohle, the 87. Draguignan 33. Drappo 137. Drau, the 88. Drena, Castello di 82. Dro 82. Drome, the 14. Druentia, 20. Duggia, Vall83. Duino 264. Durance, the 20. 104. Ecluse, Fort de 1’ 36. Edolo 200. Eggenberg, castle 87. Egna 77. Ehrenhausen 88- Eichberg 86. Einshorn, the 59. Eisack, the 73. 77. tS. Elena, island 265. Ema, the 390. Empoli 325. Enguiso 83. Enza, the 26G - . Epierre 38. Eporedia 107. ZEra, the 324. Erba 159. Ersa 413. Ermitage, the 14. E.rstfelden 51. Escarena 137._ Esino, the 295. INDEX. L’Estaque 26. Este 222. Esterel, Mont d’ 33. Estressin 12. St. Etienne-du-Bois 8. L’Etoile 15. Etsch, the 67 . 77 etc. Euganean Mts., the 221. Eza 129. Fa enza 288. Faesulae 395. Faido 54. Falconara 295. Falterona, Monte 401. Fano 294. F antis critti 328. Fardiin, castle 59. Fariolo or Feriolo 46. 176. Fasana 94. Faventia 288. Favorita 83. S. Fedele 161. Felizzano 113. Felsberg 57. Fenestrelle 104. Fenis, castle 109. Feriolo or Fariolo 46. 176. Ferrara 222. Ferrgra 40. — Valley, the 59. Feysin 12. Fiave 83. Fibia, the 53. Fidentia Julia 266 . Fie sole 394. Figlini 341 . Filigare 311. Finale 125. Finstermiinz 66. Fiora 50. S. Fiorenzo 413. Fiorio, Villa 82. Firenze 345. Firenzuola 266. Fitznau 49. Fiumalbo 276. Fiume 95. Fiume Latte 164. Fivizzano 268. Flamboin 3. Florence 341. Accademia delle Belle Arti 369. *SS. Annunziata 367. ^Archives 358. Badia 364. *Bargello 363. Base di S. Lorenzo 373. *Battisterio 3.60. Bazaar 359. 419 Florence : *Bello Sguardo 391. Biblioteca Laurenziana 374. — Magliabecchiana 358 — Marucelliana 372. — Nazionale 358. — Riccardiana 372. *Bigallo 359. *Boboli Garden, the 385 Borgo Ognissanti 377. Botanic. Garden 387. *Campanile 363. Bridges 349. Canonry 360. S . Carlo Borromeo 359. Cascine 392. Casino Mediceo 368. — dei Nobili 377. Cathedral 361. *S. Croce 365. Dante’s Statue 364. Dogana 368. Egyptian Museum 379. Fortezza da Basso 379. — di Belvedere 386. FoundlingHospital367. S. Francesco di Paola 391. Gates 348. *S. Giovanni Battista 360 S. Giovannino degli Scolopi 372. House of Bianca Ca- pello 37S., — of Dante 378. — — Galileo 378. — — Macchiavelli378. — — Michael Angelo 378. Amerigo Ves- pucci 378. *Loggia dei Lanzi 350. *S. Lorenzo 373. Madonna del Carmine 379. S. Marco 368. S. Maria Kovella 375. S. Miniato 388. Mint, the 350. *Misericordia 359. Monte Oliveto 392. Mosaics, manufact. of 371. *Museo di Storia Natu- ral 387. — Eazionale 363. S. Eiccolo 371. Ognissanti 377. S. Onofrio 379. *Or S. Michele 358. Palazzo dell’ Antella 365. 27 * 420 INDEX. Florence : Palazzo Bartolommei 372. — Berte 365. — Buondelmonti 377. Corsini 377. — Covoni 372. — Ferroni 379, — Fontebuoni 377. — Guadagni 380. Guicciardini 378. — Hombert 377. — Manelli 367. — Panciatichi 372. — Peruzzi 364. — Pestellini 372. *— Pitti 381. — del Podesta 363. — Poniatowski 372. — Pucci 372. — Riccardi 371. *— Strozzi 378. * — Uguccioni 350. *— vecchio 349. *Piazza S. S. Annunziata 367. — S. Croce 364. — del Duomo 359. — S. Giovanni 359. * — S. Lorenzo 372. — S. MariaNovella375 •*— della Signoria 349. S. Salvatore del Monte 388. j S. Salvi 397. Sasso di Dante 360. Spedale degli Innocenti 367. *S. Spirito 380. Theatres 343. *Tribuna del Galileo 387. . S. Trinita 377. *Uffizi, Galleria degli 351 Zoolog. Garden 393. Zecca, La 350. St. Florentin 3. Fluelen 50. Foglia, the 291. 292. St. Fons 12. Fons Aponi 221. Fontainebleau 2. Fontana 138. Fontana fredda 266. Fontebuona 31 1 . Forli 288. Forlimpopoli 289. Formigine 276. Fornace or Fornasette 172. Forum Alieni 222. — Cornelii 288. — Julii 263. Forum Licini 159. — Livii 288. — Fopilii 289. Fossano 139. Fossanova 309. Fossombrone 293. Fourmies, Baie des 136. Fourneau 38. Fourvieres 9. Foux, La 22. Ste. Foy 9. Fragenstein, castle 64. Franzdorf 90. Franzensfeste 74. Franzenshohe 68. Frati, Isola dei 84. Freienfeld 74. Frejus 33. — , Col de 38. Fressinone, the 46. Friaul 263. Frodolfo, the 70. Frohnleiten 87. Frugarolo 185. Fuentes, castle 62. Fumajolo, the 402. Fuochi, the 311, Furlo Pass, the 294. Furstenburg, castle 67. Furva, Val 70. Futa, La 311. Galbiga, Monte 172. Gallarate 179. Galleno 200. Galliera 226. Gallinara, Isola 125. Galuzzo 390. Galvaggione , Monte, Monte Generoso. Gandria 168. Ganterthal, the 45. Gard, Pont du 22. Garda 83. — Lake of 83. Garde, La 33. Gargano 84. Garibaldi, Fort 176. Garlate, Lago di 164. Gavia, the 70. Gavirate 167. Gazza, Monte 82. Gemonio 167. Generoso, Monte 168. Genevre, Mont 40. 104. Geneva 8. 36. — , Lake of 42. Genoa 113. Accademia delle Belle Arti 119. *Acqua Sola 122. S. Ambrogio 118. | Genoa : *S. Annunziata 120. Arsenal 117. ^Cathedral 118. Dogana 117. Exchange 118. Fortifications 115. *Harbour 117. *S. Lorenzo 118. *S. Maria di Carignano 116. S. Matteo 118. Municipio 119. Palazzo Balbi 120. * — Brignole 119. — of Columbus 121. *— Doria 121. — Ducale 118. — Marcello Durazzo 120 . *— Pallavicini 119. — Reale 120. — Rosso 119. .— della Scala 120. — Spinola 121. Ponte Carignano 117. Statue of Columbus 120 Teatro Carlo Felice 119> Town Hall 118. University 120. Villa Negro 122. * — Pallavicini 122. Gere, the 13. St. Germain, chat. 36. 108, S. Germano 141. Gersau 49. St. Gertrud 68. Gessens, Phare de 37. Gesso, the 138. s. Ghiffa 173. S. Giac5mo (Bernardino). 63. — (near Chiavenna) 61. Giandola 137. Ginistrella, Monte 182. Gionnero, Montes. Monte Generoso. S. Giorgio 112. 226. Giornico 54. S. Giovanni on the Adria- . tic 264. — (Lake of Garda) 83. — , Castel 111. — , Island (Lake of Como) 161. (Lago Maggiore} 176. S. Giovanni Manzano 264^ Giovi 402. Gittana 165. Giudicaria 82. S. Giuliano 110. - , Monte 330. S. Giuliano, Bagni di 324. 330. S. Giulio, Isola 182. Glanum 20. Gleichenberg 88. Glion 42. Gloggnitz 86. ■ Glurns 67. Go do 300. Goito 84. 192. Golo, the 409. 410. Golzano 152. Gomagoi 68. Gombo, II 323. Gonberge, the 89. Gondo 46. Gojnfolina, the 325. Gorizia 264. Gorlago 191. Gorner Grat, the 44. Gorz 264. • Gorzone Canal, the 22 2. Goschenen 51. Gossensas 73.. Go sting 87. Gotschakegel, the bb. St, Gotthard, the 52. Gozzano 182. Graian Alps, the 97. Graisivaudan, Y alley of 37 Gran Sasso d Italia 297. Grandes Bodies, Les 41. Granier, Mont 37. Grasse 34. Grasstein 74. - Gratidnopolis 14. Gratz 87. Gravedlna 165. Gravellona 46. Graveson 20. Gravone, the 409. Grenoble 14. 37^ Greve, the 391. Gries (near Bozen) 77. — (Brenner) 73. Grigna, Monte 165. Grignan, chateau 15. Grignano 92. Grigno 80. Grimaldi 127. Grivelli, chateau 175. Grodenerbach, the 76. Grono 63. Grosotto 71. Grumello 191. Guaxdia, Monte 286. Guasco, Monte 295. Guastalla 273. Guelfo, Castel 266. Guglielmo, Monte 199. Guillotiere,.la 8. Guinzano 187. INDEX. Haimingen 65. Haute-Combe, Abbey 37. Heidersee, the 67. Heinzenberg, the 57. Ilelvia Ricina 300. Hergiswyl 48. Hericourt 6. Hinterrhein 62. - Hoch-Finstermiinz 66. Hoch-Bealt 58. Hohenems, castle 57. Hohen-Bhatien, castle 58. Hopitaux, Les 36. Hospenthal 52. St. Hospice 136. Hrastnig 89. Hyeres 33. — , the Islands of 33. Idria 90. If, Chateau d 1 26. S. Ilario 266. Imola 287. L’lmperiale 292. Imst 65. Incino 159. Incisa 140. Induno 173. Inn, the 64. Innsbruck 64. 72. Intelvi Valley, the 161. Intra 176. Intschi 51 * Inverigo 156. Isaurus 291. Isel, hilk 72. Iselle 46. Iseo 197. — , Lago d 1 198. Isera 79. Isere, the 14. 37. Lisle 19. Isola 60. — Bella 177. — del Cantone 186. — dei Frati 84. — Gallinara 125. — Madre 177. — Fossa 413. dei Pescatori or Superiore 177. Isoletto, rock 83. Isonzo, the 264. Ivano, chateau 80. Ivrea 107. Ivry 1. Jaufen, the 74. St. Jean 139. St. Jean de Maurienne38. Joigny' 3. St. Joseph, monastery 80. |jouan, Golfe de 34. 421 Ioviniacum 3. Julian Alps, the 89. 265, St. Julien 38. Jumeaux, the 109. Juvalta, castle 57 . Kainach, the 88. Kaltenbrunn 66. Kaltwasser Glacier, the44 Kapella Mts., the 95. Kapfenberg 86. Karlsdorf 88. Karst, the 91.' Katzis 57. Kaunserthal, the 66. Kindberg 86-. Klamm 86. Klausen 75. Klein-Stiibing 87. Kollmann 76. Konigswand, the 68. Kranichsfeld 88. Krieglach 86. Kronburg, ruins 65. Kurtatsch 77. Kiissnacht (Lake of Lu- cerne) 49. Labeck, castle 88. Lacus Bendcus 83- — Borins 159. — Sebinus 198. — Verbanus 174- Ladis 66. Ladritscher Briicke 74. Lagarina, Val 79. Laggersberg, the 65. Laglio 161. Lagnasco 285. Lago Inferiore 210. — Maggiore 174. — Superiore 210. Lagueglia 125.. Laibach 90. . Laibach, the 89. 90. Laisse, the 37. Lambro, the 156. 157. Lamone, the 288. Lancenigo 262. Landeck 65* Landskron, castle 86. Lans-le-Bourg 39. Lans-le-Villard 39. Lanza, the 166. Larius , Lacus 159. La Boche 3. Lasnigo 157. Lastra 325. Latte 127. Laudegg, castle 66.. Laus Pompeia 265, Lausanne 41. Lavagna 326. 422 Lavaux 41. Lavedo, promontory 161. Laveno 176. Lavezzola 309. Lavino 268. Lavis 77. Laxenburg 85. S. Lazaro 266. Lazise 83. Lecchi, Isola 84. Leccia, Ponte alia 409. Lecco 156. — , the Lake of 164. Ledro, Lago di 83. Ledro Valley, the 83. Leghorn 312. Legnano 179. Legnoncino, Monte 161. 165. Legnone, Monte 161. 165. Leibnitz 88. Lenno 154. St. Leo, Castello di 291. Leobersdorf 85. Lerici 327. Lerins, lies 34. Lesa 178. Lesetsche 91. Leuk 44. Leuzumo 83. Levant, lie du 33. Levante, Riviera di 326. Leventina, the 54. Levi co 80. Leyment 8. Levtha Mts., the 85. Lezzeno 161. Lichtenberg, castle 67. Lidtiiforum 159. Liechtenstein, castle 85. Lierna 164. Lieusaint 1. Lima, the 335. Limito 189. Limone(Lake of Garda)84 — (Col di Tenda) 138. Limonta 164. Lira, the 61. Lira Valley 61. L’lsle-sur-le-Doubs 6. Livenza, the 263. Livigno 70. Livorno 312. Livron 15. Lizzana 79. Locarno 175. Locate 187. Lodi 265. Loeche 44. Loing, the 2. Loitsch 80. Lomellina, the 188. Lonato 191. INDEX. ! Lonigo 213. Lons-le-Saulnier 8. jLoppio, Lake of 83. S. Lorenzo 126. 291. Loreto 297. S. Loretto 198. Loriol 15. Lostallo 63. Loveno 164. Lovera 71. Lovere 198. Luc, Le 33. Lucca 330. — , the Baths of 335. Lucciago, Madonna di 181 Lucendro-See, the 52. Lucerne 48. — , the Lake of 48. S. Lucia 84. 192. Lucino 166. Lucmanier, the 57. Lueg, castle 73. Lugano 169. — , the Lake of 168. . Lug dunum 8. Lugliano 335. Lugo 300. Luinate 167, Luino 175. Lumino 63. Lumio 413. Luna 327. Lunel 22. Lunga Sardo 408. Lunigiana, La 327. Lurate 166. Luri 413. Luserna, Torre 104. Lyons 8. Lysbach, the 107. Maccagno 173. Maccaron, Mont 135. Macerata 299. Macon 6. Macra, the 139. Madatschspitz, the 68. Maddalena, La 139. — , island 408. Madesimo, the 60. Madonna del Corno 197. — di Caravaggio 201. — di Gallivaggio 61. — della Guardia 186. — di Lucciago 181. — di S. Martino 163. — di Montallegro 326. — del Monte (near Varese) 173. (near Vicenza) 215. — del Pilone 106. — del Sasso (Lago Mag- giore) 175. Madonna del Sasso (Lake of Orta) 182. — di Tirano 71. — , Val 184. Madre, Isola 177. Madrera, Val 164. Magadino 64. Magenta 142. Magerbach 65. Maggia, the 175. Maggiore, Lago 174. — , Monte 94. Magliaso 172. Magra, the 327. Magreglio 157. Maira, the 61. Majoria, castle 43. Malamacco 235. Malain 4. Malcesine 83. Malero, the 72. Malghera, Fort 216. Malgrate 159. 164. Malgue, La 32. Malnate 166. Malon, the 141. Mals 67. St. Mammes 3. Mandello 164. Manerbio 192. Mantua 210. S. Manza 409. Marano 216. — , the 291. Marburg 88. S. Marco (Simplon) 46. — (Tyrol) 79. Maremme Line, the 313. Marecchia, river 290. Marengo 185. S. Margherita a Montici 390. Margreid 77. Ste. Marguerite 34. S . Maria, monastery (near Claro) 55. — (Miinsterthal) 69. — (Stelvio) 69. — Assunta 227. — delle Grazie 212. — Maddalena 222. — della Salute 55. Mariana 409. Ste. Marie 26. Marienberg, Abbey 67. Marignano 265. S. Marino 291. Maroggia 169. Marone 198. Mar otto 294. Marseilles 27. Martigny 43. jSt. Martin, Pont 107. INDEX. S. Martino (Lake of Lu- gano) 169. — (near Genoa) 326. — (near Rimini) 291 . 310. — (on the Ticino) 142. — (near Verona) 213. — d’Albaro, promontory 116. — , Madonna di 163. — , il Sasso 163. Martinswand, the 64. Marzabotto 310. Maschere, le 311. Masein 58. Masino 181. Masnago 167. 173. Masone 46. Massa 329. Massaciuccoli, Lago di 334. MassiKa 27. S. Massimo 208. Masuccio, Piz 71. Matarello 78. Matrey 73. Matterjoch, the 108. Maures, Mont, des 33. St. Maurice 43. S. Maurizio 268. — , Monte, 159. Maurizio, Porto 126. Mediolanum 143. Meina 47. Melano 169. Mele, Capo delle 126. Melegnano 265. Melide 169. Mella, the 192. ' Melo dunum 1. Melun 1. Melzo 189. Menaggio 164. Mendrisio 168. Mentone 127. Mesocco 63. Mestre 216. Metaurus 294. Mezz-Isola 198. Mezzo, Lago_di210. Mezzo Lago 83. — Lombardo 77. — Tedesco 77. Mezzola, Lago di 61. St. Michel 38. St. Michel, Piz 58. S. Michele 213. — della Chiusa 40. — Lombardo 77. 200. Migiandone 46. Milan 143. S'. Alessandro 149. *S. Ambrogio 148. *Arco della Pace 153. Milan. Arena 153. Biblioteca Ambrosiana 152. *Brera 151. S. Carlo Borromeo 149. Castle 153. **Cathedral 145. Cavour’s Statue 154. *GalleriaVitt. Emanuele 147. Giardino Pubblico 153. *S. Lorenzo 149. S. Maria di S. Celso 150. *S. Maria' delle Grazie 150. S. Maurizio 150. Museo Civico 154. Ospedale Maggiore 152. Palazzo Ciani 150. — Litta 150. — Marino 150. — Saporiti 150. Piazza del Duomo 147. Teatro della Scala 144. Milelli 406. Mils 65. Mincio, the 80.84.192.210. S. Miniato 388. — dei Tedeschi 324. Miradolo 192. Miramar, chateau 94. Mirandola 212. 287. Mischabel, the 44. Mittersee, the 67. Mittewald 74. Mixnitz 87. Modane 38. Modena 273. Modling 85. Moesa, the 55. 62. Moesola, Lago 62. — , Piz 63. Moggiona 401. Moglia 212. Mogliano 262. Molaret 40. Molina 83. Moltrasio 160. Momo 182. Monaco 129. Monate,_Lago di 167. Moncalieri 112. Mondatsch, the 68. Mondin-Ferner, the 66. Mondragon 15. Moneglia 326. Monfalcone 264. Mons Pessulus 23. Monselice 222. Monsummano 336. Montagna 72. — (Heinzenberg) 57. 423 Montalban, Fort 136. Montaldo, Castle 107. Montanaro 106. Montargis 2. Montario, castle 213. Montbard 4. Montbeliard 6. Montblanc 110. Mont Cenis 40. Montboron, promont.136. Monte S. Bartolo 292. — Carelli 311. — - Catini 335. — Maggiore 94. — Murlo 339. — Oliveto 392. — Santo 264. Montebello (Piedmont) 110 . — (near Vicenza) 213. Montecchio 267. 292. Monteferrato 341. Montegrotto 221. Montelimart 15. Montelupo 325., Montereau 3. Monterey 34. Monterone, Monte s. Monte Motterone. Montgeron 1. Monti Pisani 323 . 324. Monticelli 139 . 203. Montignoso 329. Montiovet 108. — , Defile of 108. Montmajour 26. Montmelian 37. Montmorot, , chat. 8. Montone, the 288. 308. Montorfano, the 159. — , monast. 191. Montpellier 22. Montreux 42. Monza 155. Morbegno 72. Morcote 173. Morello, Monte 345. Moret 2. Morgozzolo, Monte s. Monte Motterone. Mori 79. Morignone 70, Mornas 15. Morosaglia 410. Mortala 127. Mortara 184. Motta, La 201. Motta S. Damiano 192. Motterone, Monte 180. Moulins 2. Mozzecane 209. Mu 200. Mugello, Val di 311- INDEX. 424 Muggia 94. Mugnone, the 394. Mulhouse 6. Muotta, the 50. Mur, the 86. Murano 261. Muranza Valley 168. Muriano 335. Murlo, Monte 339. Muro, Capo di 405. Miirz, the 86. Miirzzuschlag 86. Musocco 180. Musotto 139. Musso 165. Mutina 273. Muy, Le 33. Muzzano, Lake ot 172. Mythen, the 49. Mythenstein, the 50.' Nabresina 91. 264-. Nacla 91. Nago 82. Napoule, Golfe de la 34. Nasen, the 49. Nassereit 65. Nauders 67. Navacchio 324. Nave S. Rocco 77. Naviglio Adigetto 222. — Grande 142. — della Martesana 144. — di Pavia 144. 186. S. Nazzaro 203. Nebbio 413. Nejve 139. Nemausus 20. Nerone, Bagni di 334. Nervi 326. Nesso 161. Neu-Habsburg, ruins 49. Neumarkt 77. Neusiedler See, the 85. Neustadt 85. Neustift 75. Nevers 2. Nice430. St. Nicholas 40. 44. S. Nicolo (near Piacenza) 111 . — (Casentino) 400. Nievole, the 336. Nimes. 20. Nivolet, Dent de 37. Nizza 130. • Nizza di Mohferrato 139. Noli 125. Non, Val di 77. 200. Nonantola 276. Nonsberg, the 200. Notre-Dame de la Garde 31. Notre-Dame de l’Espe- rance 34. — — des Neiges, chapel 40. Novalesa 40. Novara 141. Novella 414. Novi (near Alessandria) 185. — (near Modena) 212. Nuits-sous-Ravieres 4. Nure, the 112. 203. 266. Nure, Ponte 266. Nus 109. Obercilli 89. Oberlaibach 90. Obladis 66. Gedenburg 85. Oetzthal, the 65. Oggebbio 173. Oglio, the 192. 198. etc. Olbia 28. - Olcio 164. Oleggio 184. — Castello 182. Olgiate 166. Olgirate, Lago d 1 164. Olimpino, Monte 167. Olivone 57. Ollioule, the 32. Ollioules St. Nazaire 32. Ollon St. Triphon 43. Olmenetta 192. 201. Olona, the 144. 167. 192. Ombrone, the 325. 336. Omegna 181- Oneglia 126. Onno 164. Ora 77. Orange 15. Oreo, the 141. Orlando, Torre d 1 266. Ornavasso 46. Oro 1 Monte d 1 409. Orsera 94. Orta 181. — , Lago d’ 182. Ortenstein 57. Ortler, the 68. Osimo 297. Osogna 54. Ospedaletto 191. Ossola, Val d 1 46. Ostriconi, the 413. Ouche, the 4. Ouchv 41. Oulx 38. Oviglio 140. Ovolo, Monte 310. Padernione 82. Padova or Padua 216. Pagliono, the 132. 133. Palazzolo 191. Palestrino 235. Pallanza 176. Pallarea 137. Palmaria 327. Pallaus. castle 75. Palud, La 15. Pambio 170. Panaro, the 268. S. Paolo, islet 198. Papia 188. Parabiago 179. Parata, Punta della 405. Pare 164. Parenzo 94. Parma 268. — river 269. Parona 80. Partina 401. Pas-des-Lanciers 26. Paspels 57. Patavum 216. Pater no 398. Patsch 73. Paullo 276. Pavia 188. Paviole 222. Pazzallo 171. Pedenos 70. — , Val 70. Pedone 138. Peggau 87. Pegli 123. Pelago 398. Pella 182. Pellino, the 182. Pendolasco 72. Pentapolis maritima 290. Penzano 159. St. Peray 14. Pergine 80. Peri 79. Pernegg 87. Perosa 104.. Perrache 12. Pesa, the 325. Pesaro 291. Pescantina 80. Pescatori, Isola dei 177. Peschiera 191. — dTseo 198. Pescia 335. Pesio, Val 139. — , — , Certosa di 139 Pessione 113. St. Peter 91. Petersberg, the 65. Petraja, La 394. Pfannberg, castle 87. Pfunds 66. Pfyn 44. INDEX. 425 - Piacenza 111. Piadena 203. Pianazzo 60. Pianello 165. Piano, Lago del 172. Piano del Tivano 161. Pianoro 311. Pianzano 263. Piave 262. — river 262. S. Pier d'Arena 186. S. Pierino 324. S. Piero 339. St. Pierre-d’Albigny 38. Pierre latte 15. Pietas Julia 95. Pietole 212. Pietra la Croce 297. Pietra Murata 82. Pietramala 311. Pietrasanta 329. S. Pietro 200. 409. — in Casale 226. Pieve 82. — di Cento 226. — a Xievole 336. — a Pelago 276. Pignerol .104. Pilat, Mont 13. Pilatus, the 48. Pinerolo 104. Pineta, La 309. Pino 413. Piolenc 15. Piottino, Monte 53. Pioverna, the 165. Pipet, Mont 13. Pirano 94. Pisa 314. Academy 322. Archives 3. ^Baptistery 317. Bagni di Xerone 323. *Botan. Garden 323. *Campanile 317. *Campo Santo 318. Casino dei Xobili 324. *S. Caterina 320. *Duomo 316. S. Francesco 321. S . Mari a della Spina32i . S. Michele in Borgo 321 Xat. Hist. Museum 323. S. Xicola 321. Palaces 322. S. Paolo a Ripa d’Arno 321. **Piazzadel Duomo 315. *S. Pietro in Grade 323. Sapienza 322. -S. Sisto 321. S. Stefano ai Cavalieri 321. l Pisa, the Baths of 324. \Pisaurum 291. jPisciatelio, the 289. Pisogne 198. Pissevache, the 43. Pistoja 336. Piteccio 311. Piumegna, the 53. Pizzighettone 192. Pizzigone, Monte 182. Pizzo, Monte 199. Plaisance 111. Plan de l’Aiguille 13. jPlatifer, the 54. i Platteinkogl, the 65. Plessur, the 56. Pliniana, Villa 160. Po, the 97. 105 etc. Po di Primaro 226. 288. Poggio Imperiale, Villa 390. Poggio Renatico 226. Poik, the 90. 91. IPojana 215. iPola 95. Polcevera, the 186. Polenta 289, Polesella 222. Polleggio 54. S. Polo 112. Poltschach 88. Ponal, Fall of the 82. St. Pons, monastery 135. Ponsas, castle 13. Pont d’Ain 36. Pont St. Esprit 15. Pont St. Martin 107. Pont-de-Veyle 35. IPontassieve 397. I Ponte 70. — di Brenta 215. — Chiasso 168. — Curone 110. — alia Leccia 409. — S. Marco 191. — Nure 266. — a Poppi 401. — a Rifredi 341. — a Serraglio 335. — Tresa 172. — di Turhigo 142. Pontedecimo 186. Pontedera 324. Pontelagoscuro 222. Pontenuovo 410. Pontevico 192. Pontigny 3. Pontlatzer Brucke,the 66. Ponzana 141. Poppi 401. Porcari 335. Pordenone 263. (Porlezza 172. Porquerolles 33. Porretta 310. Porta 409. Portcros 33. Porto 173 — S. Benedetto 212. — Maurizio 126. — Vecchio 409. — Venere 327. Portofino, Capo 124. Portus Lunae 327. Poschiavino, the 71. Possagno 81. Possnitz 88. Postojna 91. Potenza 300. Potschach 85. Pozzetto, II 330. Pozzolengo 191. Pozzolo, Lago di 412. Pozzuolo 110. Pracchia 311. Prad 67. Pragerhof 88. Pranzo 82. Prato 340. Prato al Soglio 401. Pratolino 311. Pratomagno, the 399. Pratovecchio 401. Preganziolo 262. Premffsello 46. Premstatten 88. Pressura, Monte 69. Prestanek 91. Primaro, Po di 246. 288- S. Primo, Monte 163. Primolano 80. Privas 15. Promontorium Sacrum 413 Prosecco^ 91. Provaglio 197. Prutz 66. Pugieu 36. Pusiano 159. — , Lago di 157. 159. Pusterthal, the 75. Pyrimont 36. Gtuaderna 287. Quarnero Bay, the 95. Q.uarsano 161 . Quart, castle 109. Quecet.a 329; St. Quentin 22. Quinto 53. Rabenstein, castle 87. Racconigi 140. _ B,aetionicum 165. St. Rambert 13. St. Rambert-de-Joux ’ 36. Rap alio 326. INDEX. 426 St. Raphael 33. Rarek 91. Raron 44. Ratonneau 26. Raut-Glacier, the 45. Ravenna 300. Academy 307. S. Agata 302. *S. Apollinare inClasse 308. S. Apollinare Nuovo 302. Archives 307. ^Baptistery 302. Biblioteca Comunale 307. *Cathedral 301. Colonna de’ Francesi 309. *Dante’s Tomb 306. S. Domenico 303. S. Francesco 303. S. Giovanni Battista 303. S. Giovanni Evange- lista 303. Harbour 301. S. Lorenzo in Cesarea 308. S. Maria in Cosmedin 304. — in Porto 304. — in Porto Fuori 308. * — della Rotonda 307. S. Michele in Affricisco 304. *S. Nazario e Celso 305. S. 'Niccolo 304. Palace of Theodoric 306. Palazzo Arcivescovile 307. ^Piazza Maggiore 301. Piazzetta delP Aquila 301. Pineta, La 309. S. Romualdo 304. S. Spirito 303. *S. Vitale 304 Raxalp, the 86. Realta 58. Rebbio 166. Recanati 299. Recca, the 264. Recco 326. Recoaro 215. Reggio 267. Regoledo 165. Reichenau 57. Reichenauer Thai 86. Reifenstein, castle 74. Reka 95. S.Remigio, promont. 176. S. Remo 126. St. Remy 20. Reno, the 268. 310. Renoso, Monte 409. S. Reparata, Monte 413. Reschen 67. Scheideck, the 67. Resegone, Monte 157. Restonica, the 411. Reuss, the 48. 53. Reyzousse, the 35. Rezzano 112. Rezzato 191. Rezzonica, Villa 81. Rezzonico 165. Rhaziins 57. Rhegium Lepidi 267. Rhein, the Averser- 59. — Hinter- 57. — V order- 57. Rheinwaldthal, the 59. 62. Rho 143. 179. Rhone, the 8. 9. 12. 13. 17. 36. la Perte du 36. — , the Petit 26. Riddes 43. Ried 66. Rietherg 57. Rifredi 341. Rigi, the 49. Riglio, the 203. Rigoli 330. Rimini 290. Riola 310. Ripafratto 330. Ritorto, the 159. Riva (Lake of Como) 61. — (Lake of Garda) 82. — , Lago di 61. Rivarolo 186. Rivellata, promont. 414. Riviera, the 54. — di Levante 326. — di Ponente 123. Rivoli 80. Robecco 192. Robillante 138. Roccabruna 129. Rocca S. Casciano 289. Rocqhetta Pass, the 77. S. Rocco 198. Roche-de-Glun 14. Roche taillee, the 13. Rochemelon, the 40. Roffla Gorge, the 59. Rogliano 413. Rognac 26. Rogoredo 186. 265. Rohitsch, Baths of 88. Roja, the 127. Romagna, the 278. Romagnano- 183. S. Romano 324. Romena 401. Roncaglia 203. Ronco (Apennines) 186. — (Lago Maggiore) 175. Ronco, the 308. Rongellen 58. Roquebrune 33. Roquefavour 26. Roquemaure 17. Rossboden Glacier, the 45. Rossillon 36. S. Rossore 323. Rostino 410. Rothelstein 87. Rothenbrunn 57. Rothenflue, the 49. Rotonda, Villa 215. Rotondo, Monte 411. Rotta, La 324. .Rotunda, the 156. Route de Grenoble 37. Roverbella 209. Roveredo (Bernardino) 63. — (Tyrol) 79. Rovigno 94, Rovigo 222. Rovio 168. Rubico 289. Rubicone, the 289. Rubiera 268. Rubio 81. S. Rufilo 311. Russi 300. Rutzbach, the 73. Saasgrat, the 44. Sabionct 75. Sacile 263. Sacro Monte, the (near Orta) 181 — (near Varallo) 183. — (Camaldoli) 401. Sagona 412. Sagor 89. Sagro, Monte 328. Sala 161. Salassins, Pont des 108. Sale Marazzino 198. Sallenche, the 43. Salloch 89. Salo 84. Salon 26. Salurn 77. Saluzzo 139. Saluzzola 141. S. Salvadore, Monte 171. S. Salvi 396. Salvore 94. 265. INDEX. Samoggia 268. Sanguinarie, Isole 405. Sann, the 89. Santerno, the 288. Santhia 141. Santo, Monte 264. Saone, the 6. 8. 9. Saorgio 137. Sapis 289. Sarca, the 82. Sarca, Val 81. Sarche, Le 82. Sardagna 78. Sarnico 198. Sarns 75. Sarnthal, the 76. Sartirana 184. Sarzana 328. Sarzanella 328. Sassalbo 268. Sassella 72. Sasso 310. Sasso di Castro 311. — Rancio, il 165. — del Ferro, the 176. Sassuolo 276. Sau, the 89. Sava 89. Save, the 89. Savena, the 278. 311. Savigliano 139. Savignano 310. Savio, the 289. Savona 124. Saxon, Baths of 43. Scandiano 267. Scanupia, Monte 80. Scarena 137. Schachenthal, the 51. Schamser Thai, the 59. Schelleherg 73. Schleglmiihl 86. Schluderns 67. Schneeberg, the 85. Schollenen, the 51. Schottwien 86. Schwarzau, the 86. Schwyz 49. Scrivia, the 110. 185. Seben, monastery 75. Sebenstein, castle 85. Secchia, the 268. 273. Seckau, castle 88. Secugnago 266. Seelisberg 50. Segusiuvi 40. Seillon 36. Sella Lake, the 53. Semmering 86. — , the 86. Sempione 45. Sena Gallica 294. Senio, the 288. Sens 3. Serbelloni, Villa 162. Serchio, the 329. 330. Seregno 156. Sdrezin 12. Sergiana 328. Seriate 191. Serio, the 191. Sermione, promont. 83. Sernio 71. Serra 276. — , la, Pass 70. Serra Mts., the 413. Serraggio 409. Serraglio 212. S err avalle ( Ap ennine s) 1 85 — (Tyrol) 79. — (Tuscany) 336. Serrfivezza 329. Serves 14. Servola 94. Sesia, the 181. — , Val 183. Sessame, Valle 59. Sessana 91. Sesto 155. 335. Sesto Calende 179. Sestri di Levante 326. Setta, brook 310. Sette Comuni, the 80. Settignano 402. Settimo 107. 141. Settimo-Vittone 107. Seyne, La 32. Seyssel 36. Sibilla, Mont, della 297. Siegmundsried 66. Sierre 44. Sieve, the 311. Signa 325. Silaro, the 287. Silinen 51. Sill, the 72. 73. Silz 65. Simone, the Sassi di 402. Simpeln or Simplon 45. — Pass, the 45. Singerna., the 402. Sinigaglia 294. Sinnus 288. Sion 43. Siviano 198. Soave, castle 213. Soazza 63. Soei 401. Solano, the 400. Solarolo 300. Solbiate 166. Sole, Val di 200. Solero 113. Solferino 80. 84. 191. Somma 179. 427 Somma Campagna 84. 192 Sommariva, Villa s. V. Carlotta. Soncino 202. Sondrio 72. Soresina 201. Sorgue, the 19. Sorgues 16. Sornico 164. Sospello 137. Speluga 60. Spezia 327. Spinetta 110. Splugen 60. — Pass, the 60. Spondinig 67. Sprechenstein, castle 74. Spressiano 262. Stafflach 73. Staffora, the 110. Stalvedro, Stretto di 53. Stams 64. Stanghella 222. Starkenbach 65. Staziona 201. S. Stefano 126. 266. S. Stefano Belho 139. — in Pane 393. Steinach 73. Steinbriicken 89. Stello, Monte 413. Stelvio 67. Stelvio Pass, the 68. Stenico 82. Sterling 73. Stia 401. Stilfs 67. Stoech&des 33. St.rambino 106. Strasbourg 6. Strassengel, church of87. Stresa 178. Stretta 410. Strona, the 46. Stubaythal, the 73. Stura, the 138. 139. etc. Succursale di Torino 141. Sugana, V al 80. Sulden Glacier, the 68. Suldenthal, the 68. Sulm, the 88. Sulzano 198. Sul zb erg, the 200. Suna 176. Surettahorn, the 60- Susa 40. Susten 44. Suvers 59. Taggia 126. Tagliamento, the 263. Tagstein 58. Tain 14. INDEX. 428 Talfer, the 76. Tambohorn, the 59. 60 Tanlay 3. Tanaro, the 113. 139. 184 Tarascon 20. Taro, the 266. Tarts ch 67. Tassone, Cavo, Canal 226. Taufers 69. Tauroentium 32. Tavazzano 265. Tavernelle 213. Tavignano, the 409. 410. Tavollo, the 291. Tavordo 172. Teglio 72. Telfs 64. Tell’s Platte 50. Tellina, Yal 71. Tenay 36. Tenda 138. Col di 138. Tenno 82. Teplitz 89. Tergeste 92. Terglou, the 89. Terlago 82. Termignon 39. Ternitz, 85. Tersato, castle 95. Tesino, the 80. 83. Tessin s. Ticino. Thalie, the 6. Thermae Pannonicae 85. Thomery 2. Thor, Le 19. Thusis 58. Ticino, the 63. 174 etc. — , the Canton of 169. 175. Ticinum 188. Timavo, the 264. Timavus 264. Tirano 71. — , Madonna di 71. Titan, He 33. Tivano, Piano del 161. Toblino, castle 82. Toblino, Lake of 82. Toccia or Toce s.. Tosa. Tomiliasca 57. Tonale, Monte 200. Tonnerre 3. Torano, the 328. Torbole 82. Torcello 261. Torno 160. Torrazza 141. Torre-Beretti 184. — del Gallo 390. — di Lago 329. — Luserna 104. Torre d’Orlando 266. — di Vezio 165. Torretta 135. — , castle 135. . Torri 83. Torrigia 161. Tortona 110. Tosa, the 46. 176. Tosaun 58. Tdsens 66. Tosi 398. Toulon 32. Tour, La 104. Tourbillon, castle 43. Tournanche, Val 108. Tournon 14. Tournus 6. Tovo 71. Trafoi 68. Tramin 77. Tratta, Monte ‘83. Trautson, chateau 73. Tre Croci 173. Trebbia, the 111. Trebbo 268. Trebia 111. Trecate 142. Treib 50. Tremelone, island 83. Tremezzina, the 161. Tremezzo 161. Tremola, Val 53. Tremosine 84. Trent 77. Trepalle 70. Tresa, the 172. Tresenda 72. Tresero, Piz 70. Treviglio < 189. Treviso 262. Trezzo 164. Tridentum 77. Trient, the Gorge du 43. Trieste 92. Triffail 89. Trigione, the 411. Trinita, La 137. Trinquetaille 23. Trivella, castle 137. Tropaea Augusti 129. Trostburg, castle 76. Trofarello 113. 140. Tschingel Glacier, the 44. Tschiirgant, the 65. Tiiffer, Markt 89. Turbia 129. Turin 96. Accademia delle Belle Arti 101. *Armoury 99. Arsenal 101. *Campo Santo 106. Turin: Capuchin Monastery 105. Cathedral 103. ^Cemetery 106. Consqlata, La 104. Corpus Domini 104. Giardino Pubblico 105. Gran Madre di Dio'105. S. Massimo 104. *Monuments 102. 105. Museo Lapidario 101. Museum of Antiquities 100 . Nat. Hist. Museum 100. Pallazzo dell 1 Accade- mia delle Scienze 99. — Carignano 99. — Madama 98. — Reale 98. Picture Gallery 100. Protestant Church 104. *Superga 106. *Via di Po 98. Turr, La 59. Turtman 44. Uccello, Pizzo 59. Udine 263. Umago 94. Umbrail Pass,j the 69. Unterau 75. Unz, the 90. Urbano, Forte 268. Urbino 292. Urgbach, the 66. Urgone, the 289. Uri, the Bay of 50. Urner Loch, the 52. Urseren 52. — , the Valley of 52. Uso, river 290. Vahrner Bad, the 75 Val Madonna 184. — d’Ottavo 335. — Rhein 59. 62. — Travaglia 173. Valais, the Canton of 43. Valcares, Etang de 26. Valdieri, Baths of 139. Valence 14. St. Valentin auf d. Heide 67. Valenza 184. Valeria, castle 43.' Valle 184. Valle dei Calci 323. St. Vallier 13. Vallombrosa 397. Valmara, the 174. Vais, chateau de 13. Valserine Viaduct, the 36. Valstagna 80. INDEX. 429 Val Tellina, the 71. 200. Vanoise Glacier, the 39. Vaprio 201. Yar, the 34. Yara, the 327. Varallo 183. Varazze 124. Yaren 44. Varenna 164. Yarese 167. — , Lago di 167. Varrone, the 82. Vaucluse 19. Vedeggio, the 55. Velleia 112. Vence 34. Y T enda, Monte 221. Yenice 227. *Accademia delle Belle Arti 245. SS. Apostoli 247. Archaeolog. Museum 243. Archives 249. ^Arsenal 244. Botan. Garden 260. *Ca d’Oro 259. Campanile 239. Campo di Marte 261. Casa Ferro 2o7. Corte del Remer 259. S. Crisostomo 247. Dogana di Mare 257. Fondaco de 1 Tedeschi 259. de’ Turchi 260. S. Francesco della Vigna 248. **Frari 248. Gesuiti 249. Giardino Papadopoli 260. Giardini Pubblici 261. *S. Giorgio Maggiore 250. ^*SS. Giovanni e Paolo 250. S. Giuliano 252. ^*Grand Canal 256. S. Lazzaro 252. ^Library 240. Lido 261. =**St. Marco 237. S. Maria Formosa 252. — de’ Miracoli 252. — del Orto 252. — della Salute 252. — Zobenigo 253. Merceria, the 240. Murazzi 235. Museo Civico 260. Palazzo Balbi 258. — Barbarigo 258. — Battagia 260. Venice: *Palazzo Bembo 258. — Bernardo 258. — de 1 Camerlinghi 259 * — Cavalli 257. *— Contarini-FaSan 257 — Contarini delle Fi- gure 258. — Contarini dai Scrigni 257. * — Corner della Ca Grande 257. — Corner della Regina 259. *— Corner-Spinelli 258. — Correr 260. — Dandolo 258. — Dar i o - An gar ani 257 . **— Ducalefof theDoges) 240. — Emo-Treves 257. * — Farsetti 258. — Fini 257. * — Foscari 257. — Giustiniani 257. — Giustinian-Lolin257 — Grassi 257. * — Griniani 258. — Grimani della Vida 259. — Labia 260. * — Loredan 258. — Manfrin 260. — Marigilli-Valma- rana 259. — Manin 259. — Manzoni-Angarani 257. — Michieli dalle Co lonne 259. — Mocenigo 258. — Moro-Lin 258. — Du Mula 257. — Persico 258. — Pesaro 259. — Pis ani 258. *— Rezzonico 257. — Sagredo 259. — Tiepolo 258. — Tiepolo-Stiirmer258 — Tiepolo-Zucchelli 9*7 - Tron 260. ** — Vendramin-Calergi 260. — Venier 257. — Zichy-Esterhazy257 S. Pantaleone 253. *Piazza of St. Mark 235. Piazzetta, the 236. S. Pietro di.Castello 253 Piombi, the 244. *Ponte di Rialto 259. V enice : Ponte de’ Sospiri 244. Pozzi, the 244. Procuratie 236. RailwayStation 229.260 *Redentore 254. Riva dei Schiavoni 244. S. Rocco 254. *S. Salvatore 254. Seal a dei Giganti 241. Scalzi 255. *Scuola di S. Marco 251. *S. Sebastiano 255. Seminario Patriarcale 257. S . Simeone Piccolo 255. *Statue of Colleoni 251. *S. Stefano 255. Theatres 231. Torre dell 1 Orologio240 *S. Zaccaria 256. Venere, Porto 327. Ventimiglia 127. Ventoux, Mont 15. Verbanus , Lacus 174. Vercelli 141. Vergato 310. Vermanagna, the 138. Vernayaz 13. Yernex 42. Verney 39. Vernia, the 402. Verola Euova 192. Verona 203. * Amphitheatre 204. *S. Anastasia 205. Campo Santo 207. Cappella de 1 Pellegrini 206 . Castello S. Pietro 208. — Vecchio 206. Cathedral 205. Dante’s Statue 204. S . Fermo Maggiore 207 . Giardino Giusti 208. S. Giorgio 209. S. Maria Antica 205. Museo Civico 207. — Lapidario 204 Palazzo del Consiglio 204. — Pompei 207. Piazza Bra 204. S. Pietro Martire 206. Ponte di Castello 206. — delle Ravi 207. Porta de 1 Borsari 204. — Stuppa 206. . ' Roman Theatre 208. Tomb of Juliet 208. *Tombs of the Scaligers 205 *S. Zenone 206. 430 INDEX. Verona, La Chiusa di 79. Verrex 108. Verruca, La 323. Verruca, the ( Trent) 78. Vescovato 410. Vesontio , 7. Vespolate 184. Vevay 41. Veyle, the 35. Veytaux 42. Vezia 56. Vezzano 82. Via Aemilia 266. — Claudia 330. — Flaminia 276. Via Mala, the. 58. Viareggio 329. Vicenza 213. Vichy 2. Vidauban 33. Viege s. Vispach. Vienne 12. Vieux-Mont-Ferrand 36. Vigese, Monte 310. Vigevano 184. S. Vigilio 83. Vignola 276. Vigo 310. Vigolo 82. Villa 335. Villa Amalia 159. — degli Albizzi 393. — Ambrogiana 325. — Antongina 161. — Balbianello 161. — Bermond 135. — Bocarmd 160. — della Bugia 390. — Careggi 393. — Carlotta 162. — Claridge 136. — Clary 135. — Colobiano 160. — Demidoff 393. — Doccia 341. 394. — Enderlin 170. — d’Este 160. — Faroni s. V. Taverna. — Fiorio 82. — Frizzoni 162. — Gaggis. V. Antongina. — Galbiati 161. — del Galileo 390. — Giulia 162. . Villa Manfrini 262. — Marchino 171. — Marlia 334. . — Melzi 162. — Mozzi 395. — Mylius 164. — Negro 122. — Odescalchi s. V. Rai mondi. — Paldi 162. — Pallavicini 122. — Palmieri 394. — Passalacqua 160. — Pasta 160. — Petraia 394. — Pizzo 160. — Pliniana 160. — Poggio Imperiale 390. — Pratolino 311. — Prina 176. — Quarto 394. — Raimondi 160. — Rezzonica 81. — Rotonda 215 — Serbelloni 162. — Smith 136. — Sommariva s. V. Car- lotta. — Taglioni 160. — Tanzina 170. — Taverna 160. — Trubetzkoi 160. — Vasalli 170. — Vigoni 164. — Vittoria 292. Villafranca (near Asti) 113. — (near Nice)gl36. — (near Verona) 209. Villamaggiore 187. Villanova 213. Villanuova (near Asti) 113 . — (near Verona) 213. Villastellone 140. Villefranche (nearAosta) 109 . — (near Nice) 136. Villeneuve (near Avig- non) 18. — (Lake of Geneva) 42. — St. Georges 1. St. Vincent 108. Vinei, Pizzo di 53. Vintschgau, the 67. Visgnola 164. Viso, Monte 138. Visp or Vispach 44. Vitrolles 26. S. Vittore 63. 213. • S. Vittoria 139. Vittuone 143. Vivario 409. Viviers 15. Vizzarona 409. Voghera 110. Voglans 37. Volta 84. 192. Volterra 324. Voltri 124. • Voragine 124. Voslau 85. Voujacourt 6. Vuache, Mont the 36. Waggis 49. Waidbruck 76. Waldensian Valleys, the 104. Wartenstein, castle 85. Wasen 51. Wattingen 51. Weinzettelwand, the 86^ Weisseneck, castle 88. Welfenstein, castle 74. Wildon, castle 88. Wiltau, Abbey 72. Wippthal, the 74. Worms s. Bormio. Wormser Joch, the 69. Wytenstein, the 50. Yeres, the 1. Yonne, the 3. Yvorne 43. Zams 65. Zanelli, Canal 288. Zapporthorn, the 59. Zebru, Monte 68. Zenna 174. S. Zeno 192. Zermatt 44. 108. Zibio, Monte 276. Zillis 59. Zirknitzer See, the 91. Zirl 64 Zufallspitz, the 68. Essen: Printed by Gr. D. Baedeker.