yOSEPH ADDISON , 
 
 Drum ergo id ej}^ fi quis in coelum a fcendi (Jet 
 naturamque mundi & pulchritudinem f derum 
 perjpexijjet , infuavem illam admirationem ei fore , 
 quae jucundijfima fuiffet , fi aliquem cui narraret 
 habuijfet. Cicer. de Araic. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed for J. and R.Tonson in the Strand. 
 
 MDCCXXXVI. 
 
Lately Publijh'd , 
 
 T H E late Miscellaneous Works in Verfe and Pro r e, of 
 the late Right Honourable JOSEPH ADDISON, 
 Efq; in Three Vols. x zmo. Confifting of fuch as were ne- 
 ver before Printed in 1 2mo. With fome Account of the 
 Life and Writings of the Author, by Mr. Ticket!. 
 
 N. B. Thefe Three Volumes, with the Tatters, Specta- 
 tors, Guardians, freeholder, and Remarks on fever at Parts 
 ef Italy, complete Mr. Addifons W orks in T welves. 
 

 To the Right Honourable 
 
 yohn Lord Sommers , 
 
 Baron of Eve [ham. 
 
 R D, 
 
 _RE is a Plea- 
 fure in owning Ob- 
 ligations which it is 
 an Honour to have received, 
 A 2 but 
 
Dedication. 
 
 but fhould I publifb any 
 Favours done me by Your 
 Lordfhip, I am afraid it 
 would look more like Vani- 
 ty, than Gratitude. 
 
 I had a very early Am- 
 bition to recommend my 
 felf to Your Lordfhip’s Pa- 
 tronage, which yet increas’d 
 in me as I travelled thro’ 
 the Countries, of which I 
 here give Your Lordfhip 
 fome Account: For what- 
 ever great Imprefiions an 
 
 En - 
 
Dedication. 
 
 Englifhman mu ft have of 
 Your Lordfhip, they who 
 have been converfant A- 
 broad will find them ftill 
 improved. It cannot but 
 be obvious to them, that 
 tho’ they fee Your Lord- 
 fhip’s Admirers every where, 
 they meet with very few of 
 Your Well-wifhers at Paris 
 or at Rome. And I could 
 not but obferve, when I puf- 
 fed through moft of the Pro- 
 teftant Governments in Eu- 
 A 3 robe. 
 
Dedication. 
 
 rope , that their Hopes or 
 Fears for the Common Caufe 
 rofe or fell with Your Lord- 
 fhip’s Intereft and Authority 
 in England. 
 
 o 
 
 I here prefent Your 
 Lordfhip with the Remarks 
 that I made in a Part of 
 thefe my Travels ; wherein, 
 notwithstanding the Variety 
 of the Subjedfc, I am very 
 fenfible that I offer no- 
 thing New to Your Lord- 
 fhip, and can have no other 
 
 Defign 
 
Dedication. 
 
 Defign in this Addrefs, than 
 to declare that I am. 
 
 My LORD , 
 
 ’ Tour Lordfhip's mofi Obliged and 
 mofi Obedient Humble Servarit^ 
 
 J. Addis o n. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 more particular in the Face of the' 
 Country , and more aftonifhing in the 
 Works of Nature , than can be met 
 with in any other Part of Europe. It 
 is the great School of Mujick and Paint - 
 ing, and contains in it all the noblefi 
 Productions . of Statuary and Architec- 
 ture both Ancient and Modern. It a- 
 bounds with Cabinets of Curiojities , and 
 no aft Collections of all kinds of Antiquities.. 
 No other Country in the World has fuch 
 a Variety of Government s, that are fo 
 different in their Confutations , and fo re- 
 fined in their Politicks. I here is ft arc e- 
 any Part of the Nation that is not Fa-- 
 
 igg HERE is certainly no Place 
 fBl! in the World where a Man 
 
 ||! may travel with greater Plea - 
 ||f)! Jure and Advantage than in 
 Italy. One finds fomething 
 
 mousi 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 mous in Hiflory , nor fo much as a Moun- 
 tain or River that has not been the Scene 
 oj 'feme extraordinary Action. 
 
 As there are few Men that have Ta- 
 lents or Opportunities for examining fo 
 copious a Subject, one may obferve among 
 thofe who have written on Italy, that 
 different Authors have Jucceeded befl on 
 different forts of Curiojities. Some have 
 been more particular in their Accounts 
 of Pictures, Statues , and Buildings ; fome 
 have J'earch' d into Libraries , Cabinets of 
 Rarities , and Collections of Medals ; as 
 others have been wholly taken up with 
 Infcriptions , Ruins , and Antiquities. A- 
 mong the Authors of our own Country , 
 we are obliged to the Bifiop of Salisbury, 
 for his maflerly and uncommon Obferva- 
 tions on the Religion and Governments 
 of Italy : LaiTeis may be ufeful in giving 
 us the Names of Jiich Writers as have 
 treated of the Jeveral States through 
 which he pafsd: Mr. Ray is to be va- 
 lued for his Obfervations on the natural 
 Productions of the Place. Monfieur Mif- 
 fon has wrote a more correCi Account of 
 
 Italy 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Italy in general than any before him , as 
 he particularly excells in the ‘Plan of the 
 Country , which he has given us in true 
 and lively Colours . 
 
 \ There are fill Jeveral of thefe Topicks 
 that are far from being exhaufled , as 
 there are many new Subjects that a Tra- 
 veller may find to employ himfelf upon . 
 For my own part , as I have taken no- 
 tice of Jeveral Places and Antiquities 
 that no Body elfe has fpoken of fo , I 
 think , I have mentioned but few 7 kings 
 in common with others , that are not ei- 
 ther jet in a new Light 5 or accompany d 
 with different Refections. I have taken 
 care particularly to confder the Jeveral 
 Pa f ages of the Ancient Poets , which have 
 any Relation to the Places or Curiofi- 
 ties that I met with ; For before I en- 
 tered on my Voyage I took care to refrejh 
 my Memory among Claffic Authors , and 
 to make jiich Collections out of them as 
 I might afterwards have Occafion for . 
 I mufl conj'ej's it was not one of the leaf 
 Enter tainmetits that I met with in Tra- 
 vellings to examine thefe Jeveral Defer ip - 
 
 thus . 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 tions, as it were upon the Spot , and to 
 compare the Natural Face of the Coun- 
 try with the Landskips that the Poets 
 have given us of it. However to avoid 
 the Confufion that might a rife from a 
 Multitude of Quotations, I have only ci- 
 ted fuch Verfes as have given us fame 
 Image of the Place , or that have fame- 
 thing elfe befdes the bare Name of it to 
 recommend them. 
 
MO N A C O, 
 
 GENOA, &c. 
 
 adl|i ^ ^ ie Twelfth of December , 1690. 
 I fet out from Marjeilles to Genoa 
 ] r n a rartan e, and arrived late at a 
 lmall French Port call’d CaJ/is, where 
 the next Morning we were not a 
 little furpris’d to fee all the Mountains 
 about the Town cover’d with green Olive-trees,, 
 or laid out 111 beautiful Gardens, which gave us 
 a great Variety of dealing Profpecfts, even in the 
 Depth of Winter. The moft uncultivated of them 
 produce abundance of fweet Plants, as Wild- 
 I hyme, Lavender, Rofemary, Balm and Mirtle. 
 We were here fhown at a Diftance the Defarts, 
 winch have been rendered fo famous by the Pe-' 
 nance of Mary Magdalene , who, after her Arri- 
 
 Laz f u ! an L d J°f e P h of Arimathea at 
 Marfeilles , is faid to have wept away the reft of 
 
 her 
 
14. Monaco , Genoa , &c. 
 
 her Life among thcfe folitary Rocks and Mountains. 
 It is fo romantic a Sbene, that is has always pro- 
 bably given occafion to fuch chimerical Relations ; 
 for it is perhaps of this Place that Claudian fpeaks, 
 in the following Defcription ; 
 
 Eft locus extremum pandit qua Gallia littus 
 Oceani pratentus aquis , qua fertur Ulyjes 
 Sanguine libato populum movijfe Silentum: 
 
 Illic Umbrarum tenui Jlridore volant um 
 Flebilis auditur quejlus ; fimulachra coloni 
 Pallicla defundtafque videt migrare figuras, &c. 
 
 Cl. in Ruf. L. i. 
 
 A Place there lies on Gallia's utmoft Bounds, 
 
 Where rifing Seas infult the Frontier Grounds. 
 Ulyffes here the Blood of Vi&ims fhed, 
 
 And rais’d the pale Affembly of the Dead : 
 
 Oft in the Winds is heard a plaintive Sound 
 Of melancholy Ghofts that hover round;. 
 
 'The lab’ring Plow-man oft with Plorror Ipies 1 
 Thin airy Shapes, that o’er the Furrows rife, £ 
 (A dreadful Scene ! ) and skim before his Eyes. ) 
 
 I know there is nothing more undetermined a- 
 mong the Learned than the Voyage of Ulyffes; fome 
 confining it to the Mediterranean, others extending 
 it to the great Ocean, and others afcribing _it to a 
 World of the Poet’s own making ; tno’ his Conver- 
 sions with the Dead are generally fuppofed to have 
 been in the Narbon Gaul. 
 
 Incultus adiit Lajlrigonas Antiphatenque , &c. 
 
 Atque hac feu nojiras inter funt cogmta terras, 
 Fabula five novum dedit his ErroribusOrbem. 
 
 J Tib. L. 4. LI. 1. 
 
 Uncertain 
 
Monaco , Genoa , &c. . 
 
 Uncertain whether, by the Winds convey’d. 
 
 On real Seas to real Shores he ft ray’d ; 
 
 Or, by the Fable driv’n from Coaft: to Coaft, 
 
 In new Imaginary Worlds was loft. 
 
 The next Day we again fet Sail, and made the 
 beft of our way till we were forced, by contrary 
 Winds, into St. Remo , a very pretty Town in the 
 Genoefe Dominions. The Front to the Sea is not 
 large, but there are a great many Houfes behind it, 
 built up the Side of the Mountain, to avoid the 
 Winds and Vapours that come from Sea. We 
 here faw feveral Perfons that in the midft of De- 
 cember had nothing over their Shoulders but their 
 Shirts, without complaining of the Cold. It is cer- 
 tainly very lucky for the poorer fort, to be born in 
 a Place that is free from the greateft Inconvenience, 
 to which thofe of our Northern Nations are fub- 
 je& ; and indeed, without this natural Benefit of 
 their Climates, the extreme Mifery and Pover- 
 ty that are in moft of the Italian Governments 
 would be infupportable. There are at St. Remo 
 many Plantations of Palm-trees, that do not grow 
 in other Parts of Italy. We failed from hence di- 
 rectly for Genoa, and had a fair Wind that car- 
 ried us into the middle of the Gulph, which is 
 very remarkable for Tempefts and Scarcity of 
 Fifh. It is probable one may be the Caufe of the 
 other, whether it be that the Fifhermen cannot 
 employ their Art with fo much Succefs in fo trou- 
 bled a Sea, or that the Fifh do not care for inhabit- 
 ing fuch ft ormy Waters. 
 
 Defen dens fifes liemat mare — Hor. Sat. 2. lib. 2. 
 
 While 
 
16 . Monaco , Genoa , &c. 
 
 While black with Storms that ruffled Ocean rolls. 
 
 And from the Fifher’s Art defends her Finny Sholes. 
 
 We were forced to lie in it two Days, and our Cap- 
 tain thought his Ship in fo great Danger, that he 
 fell upon his Knees and confefs’d himfelf to a Capu- 
 cin who was on Board with us. But at laft, taking- 
 the Advantage of a Side-wind, v/e were driven back 
 in a few Hours time as far as Monaco. Lucan has 
 given us a Defcription of the Harbour that we found 
 fo very welcome to us, after the great Danger we 
 had efcaped. 
 
 • 
 
 uaque fub Herculeo Sacratus nomine partus 
 Urget rupe cava pelagus : non Corns in ilium 
 Jus habet aut Zephyrus : Solus fua littora turbat 
 Circius, iff tutd prohibit Jiatione Monad . Lib. i, 
 
 The winding Rocks a fpacious Harbour frame, 
 
 That from the great Alcides takes its Name: 
 
 Fenc’d to the Weft and to the North it lies ; 
 
 But when the Winds in Southern Quarters rife, 
 Ships, from their Anchors torn, become their fport. 
 And fudden Tempefts rage within the Port. 
 
 On the Promontory where the Town of Monaco 
 now ftands, was formerly the Temple of Hercules 
 Monacus, which ft ill gives the Name to this fmall 
 Principality. 
 
 Aggeribus focer Alpinis atque arce Monad 
 Defcendens. — — — — V^irg. iEn. 6. 
 
 There are but three Towns in the Dominions 
 of the Prince of Monaco . The chief of them is 
 
 fttuate 
 
Monaco , Genoa , , &c. 17 
 
 fituate on a Rock which runs out into the Sea, and 
 is well fortified by Nature. It was formerly under 
 the Protection of the Spaniard , but not many 
 Years fince drove out the Spanijh Garrifcn, and re- 
 ceived a French one, which confifts at prefent of 
 five hundred Men, paid and officer’d by the French 
 King. The Officer who fhowed me the Palace 
 told me, with a great deal o,f Gravity, that his 
 Mafter and the King of France , amidft all the Con- 
 fufions of Europe, had ever been good Friends and 
 Allies. T he Palace has handfome Apartments, that 
 are many of them hung with Pi&ures of the reign- 
 ing Beauties in the Court of France. But the beft 
 of the Furniture was at Rome , where the Prince of 
 Monaco refided at that time Ambaflador. We 
 here took a little Boat to creep along the Sea- 
 Ihore as far as Genoa ; but at Savona , finding the 
 Sea too rough, we were forced to make the beft of 
 our way by Land, over very rugged Mountains and 
 Precipices : For this Road is much more difficult 
 than that over Mount Cennis. 
 
 The Genoefe are efteemed extremely Cunning, 
 Induftrious, and Inur’d to Hardfhip above the reft 
 of the Italians ; which was likewife the Character 
 of the old Ligurians. And indeed it is no won- 
 der, while the Barrennefs of their Country con- 
 tinues, that the Manners of the Inhabitants do 
 not change : Since there is nothing makes Men 
 /harper, ami fets their Hands and Wits | more at 
 work, than Want. The Italian Proverb fays of 
 the Genoefe , that they have a. Sea without Fifh, 
 Land without Trees, and Men without Faith. 
 1 he Character the Latin Poets have given of them 
 is not much different. 
 
18 Monaco , Genoa , &c. 
 
 AJfuetumque malo Ligurem. Virg. G. 2. 
 
 The hard Ligurians , a laborious kind. 
 
 Pernix Ligur. Sil. It. El. 8. 
 
 Fallaces Ligur es. Auf. Eid. iz. 
 
 Apenninicolce bellator filius Auni 
 
 Hand Ligurum extremus , dum fallere fata fmebant. 
 
 JEn. 11. 
 
 Yet, like a true Ligurian , born to cheat, 
 
 (At leaft whilft Fortune favour’d his Deceit) 
 
 V ine Ligur , frujlraque animis elate fuperbis , 
 Nequicquam patrias Untajli Lubricus artes. Id, 
 
 Vain Fool and Coward, cries the lofty Maid, 
 Caught in the Train which thou thy felf haft laid, 
 On others pradtife thy Ligurian Arts ; 
 
 Thin Stratagems, ami Tricks of little Hearts 
 Are loft on me; nor 5 halt thou fafe retire, 
 
 With vaunting Lies to thy fallacious Sire. [Dry den. 
 
 There are a great many beautiful Palaces (land- 
 ing along the Sea-fhore on both ndes of Genoa , 
 which make the Town appear much longer than 
 it is, to thofe that fail by it. The City it felf 
 makes the nobleft Show of any in the World. 
 The Houfes are raoft of them painted cn the 
 Outfide ; fo that they lopk extremely gay and live- 
 lv, befides that they are efteemed the higheft in 
 Europe , and ftand very thick together. The New- 
 Street is a double Range of Palaces from one end 
 to the other, built with an excellent Fancy, and 
 fit for the greateft Princes to inhabit, I cannot 
 
 however 
 
Monaco, Genoa, Sec. ig 
 
 however be reconciled to their manner of Paint- 
 ing feveral of the Genoefe Houfes. Figures, Per- 
 fpeftives, or Pieces of Hiftory are certainly very 
 ornamental, as they are drawn on many of the 
 Walls, that would otherwife look too naked and 
 uniform without them : But inftead of thefe, one 
 often fees the Front of a Palace covered with 
 painted Pillars of different Orders. If thefe were 
 fo many true Columns of Marble, fet in their 
 proper Archite&ure, they would certainly very 
 much adorn the Places where they fland, but as 
 they are now, they only fhew us that there is 
 fomething wanting, and that the Palace, which 
 without thefe counterfeit Pillars would be beauti- 
 ful in its kind, might have been more perfect by 
 the Addition of fuch as are real. The Front of 
 the Villa Imperials, at a Mile diftance from Ge- 
 noa, without any thing of this Paint upon it, con- 
 fifts of a Doric and Corinthian Row of Pillars, 
 and is much the handfomeft of any I there faw. 
 The Duke of Dona's Palace has the bed Out fide 
 01 any in Genoa , as that of Durazzo is the bed 
 furnifhed within. There is one Room in the firft, 
 that is hung with Tapeftry, in which are wrought 
 the Figures of the great Perfons that the Family 
 has produced ; as perhaps there is no Houfe in 
 ■Europe that can fhow a longer Line of Heroes , 
 that have ft ill afted for the Good of their Country. 
 Andrew Doria has a Statue eredted to him at the 
 Entrance of the Doge’s Palace, with the glorious 
 1 . itle of Deliverer of the Commonwealth ; and 
 one of his Family another, that calls him its Pre- 
 ferver. In the Doge’s Palace, are the Rooms, 
 where the great and little Council with the two 
 Colleges hold their Affemblies ; but as the State 
 
 of 
 
20 
 
 Monaco , Genoa, &c. 
 
 of Genoa is very poor, tho’ feveral of its Members 
 are extremely rich, fo one may obferve infinitely 
 more Splendor and Magnificence in particular 
 Perfons Houfes, than in thofe that belong to the 
 Publick. But we find in moft of the States of 
 Europe , that the People fhow the greateft Marks 
 of Poverty, where the Governors live in the 
 greateft Magnificence. The Churches are very 
 fine, particularly that of the Annunciation, which 
 looks wonderfully beautiful in the Infide, all but 
 one Corner of it being covered with Statues,. 
 Gilding and Paint. A Man would expert, in fo 
 very ancient a Town of Italy , to find feme con- 
 fiderable Antiquities ; but all they have to fhow 
 of this nature is an old Rojlrum of a Roman 
 Ship, that ftands over the Door of their Arfenal. 
 It is not above a Foot long, and perhaps would 
 never have been thought the Beak of a Ship, had 
 not it been found in fo probable a Place as the 
 Haven. It is all of Iron, fafhioned at the End like 
 a Boar’s Head ; as I have feen it reprefented on 
 Medals, and on the Columna Rojlrata in Rome. 
 I faw at Genoa Signior MicconP s famous Collec- 
 tion of Shells, which, as Father Ruonani the Je- 
 fuite has fince told me, is one of the beft in Italy. 
 I know nothing more remarkable, in the Govern- 
 ment of Genoa , than the Bank of St. George , 
 made up of fuch Branches of the Revenues, as 
 have been fet apart, and appropriated to the dif- 
 charging of feveral Sums, that have been bor- 
 rowed from private Perfons, during the Exigen- 
 cies of the Commonwealth. Whatever Incon- 
 veniences the State has laboured under, they have 
 never entertained a Thought of violating the Pub- 
 lick Credit, or of alienating any Part of thefe 
 
 Revenues 
 
Monaco , Genoa , 6 cc. 21 
 
 f Revenues to other Ufes, than to what they have 
 ’ been thus afligned. The Adminiftration of this 
 Bank is for Life, and partly in the Hands of the 
 chief Citizens, which gives them a great Autho- 
 rity in the State, and a powerful Influence over 
 the common People. This Bank is generally 
 thought the greateft Load on the Genoefe, and the 
 Managers of it have been reprefented as a fecond 
 kind of Senate, that break the Uniformity of Go- 
 vernment, and deftroy in fome meafure the Fun- 
 damental Conftitution of the State. It is, how'- 
 ever, very certain, that the People reap no fmall 
 Advantages from it, as it diftributes the Power 
 among more particular Members of the Repub- 
 lick, and gives the Commons a Figure: So that 
 it is no fmall Check upon the Ariftocracy, and 
 may be one Reafon why the Genoefe Senate car- 
 ries it with greater Moderation towards their Sub- 
 jects than the Venetian. 
 
 It would have been well for the Republick of 
 Genoa , if fhe had follow’d the Example of her 
 Sifter of Venice, in not permitting her Nobles to 
 make any Purchafe of Lands or Houfes in the Do- 
 minions of a Foreign Prince. For at prefent the 
 Greateft, among the Genoefe, are in part Sub- 
 je6ts to the 'Monarchy of Spain , by reafon of 
 their Eftates that lie in the Kingdom of Naples. 
 The Spaniards tax them very high upon occafion* 
 and are fo fenftble of the Advantage this gives 
 them over the Republick, that they will not fhffer 
 a Neapolitan to buy the Lands of a Genoefe , who 
 muft find a Purchaser among his own Country- 
 men, if he has a mind to fell. For this reafon 
 as well as on account of the great Sums of 
 Money which the Spaniard owes the Genoefe , 
 
22 Monaco , Genoa , &c. 
 
 they are under a Neceffity, at prefent, of being iri 
 the Intereft of the French , and would probably 
 continue fo, tho’ all the other States of Italy 
 entered into a League againft them. Genoa is not 
 yet fecure from a Bombardment, tho’ it is not fo 
 expofed as formerly; for, fince the Infult of the 
 French , they have built a Mole, with fome little 
 Ports, and have provided themfelves with long 
 Guns and Morta s. It is eafy for thofe that are 
 ftron°- at Sea to bring them to what Terms they 
 pleafe; for having but very little Arable Land, 
 they are forc’d to fetch all their Corn from Na- 
 ples y Sicily , and other Foreign Countries; except 
 what comes to them from Lombardy , which pro- 
 bably goes another way, whilft it furnifhes two 
 great Armies with Provisions. Their Fleet, that 
 formerly gained fo many Vi&ories over the Sa- 
 racens, Pifans , Venetians , Turks and Spaniards , 
 that made them Matters of Crete , Sardinia , Ma- 
 jorca , Minorca , Negrepont , Lesbos , Malta , that 
 fettled them in Scio, Smyrna , Achaia , Theodofia , 
 and feveral Towns on the Eaftern Confines of 
 Europe , is now reduc’d to fix Gallies. When 
 they had made an Addition of but four new ones, 
 the Kinp- of France fent his Orders to fupprefs 
 them, telling the Republick at the fame time, that 
 he knew very well how many they had Occafion 
 for. This little Fleet ferves only to fetch them 
 Wine and Corn, and to give their Ladies an Air- 
 ing in the Summer-feafon. The Republick of 
 Genoa has a Crown and Sceptre for its Doge, 
 by reafon of their Conqueft of Corfica , where 
 there was formerly a Saracen King. This indeed 
 gives their Ambafiadors a more honourable Re- 
 ception at fome Courts, but, at the fame time, 
 
 may 
 
Monaco , Genoa , &c. 23 
 
 may teach their People to have a mean Not : on of 
 their own Form of Government, and is a tacit Ac- 
 knowledgment that Monarchy is the more honoura- 
 ble. The old Romans , on the contrary, made ufe 
 of a very barbarous kind of Politicks to infpire their 
 People with a Contempt of Kings, whom they 
 treated with Infamy, and dragged at the Wheels of 
 their triumphal Chariots. 
 
 PAVIA , 
 
ROM Genoa we took Chaife for 
 Milan , and by the Way flopped at 
 Pavia , that was once the Metropo- 
 lis of a Kingdom, but is at prefent 
 a poor Town. We here faw the 
 Convent of Aujlin Monks, who 
 about three Years ago pretended to have found 
 out the Body of the Saint that gives the Name 
 to their Order. King Luitprand , whofe Aflies 
 are in the fame Church, brought hither the Corps, 
 and was very induftrious to conceal it, left it 
 might be abufed by the barbarous Nations, which 
 at that time ravaged Italy. One would there- 
 fore rather wonder that it has not been found out 
 much earlier, than that it is difcover’d at laft. The 
 Fathers however do not yet find their Account in 
 the Difcovery they have made ; for there are 
 Canons Regular, who have half the fame Church 
 in their Hands, that will by -no means allow it 
 to be the Body of the Saint, nor is it yet recog- 
 
 nifed 
 
 MI LA AY &c. 
 
Pavia , Milan , &c> 
 
 iiifed by the Pope. The Monks fay for themfelves, 
 that the very Name was written on the Urn where 
 the Afhes lay, and that in an old Record of the 
 Convent, they are faid to have been interred be- 
 tween the very W all and the Altar where they were 
 taken up. They have already too, as the Monks 
 told us, begun to juftify themfelves by Miracles. 
 At the Corner of one of the Cloifters of this Con- 
 vent are bury’d the Duke of Suffolk, and the Duke 
 of Lorrain , who were both killed in the famous 
 Battle of Pavia. Their Monument w-as eredted 
 to them by one Charles Parker , an Ecclefiaftic, 
 as I learned from the Infcription, which I can*- 
 not omit tranfcribing, fince I have not feen it 
 Printed. 
 
 Cap to a Milite Cffarco Francifco I. Gallorum 
 Pegs in agro Papienfi Anno 1525. 23. Feb. inter 
 alios proceres, qui ex fuis in prcelio occifi funt, cc * 
 cubuerunt duo illujlrijjimi principes, Francifcus Dux 
 Lotharingia , et Richardus de la Poole Anglus Dux 
 Suffolpice a Rege Tyranno Hen. VIII. puffs regno. 
 Quorum corpora hoc in ccenobio et ambitu per An- 
 nas 57. fins honor e tumulata funt. 'Tandem Caro- 
 lus Parker a Mcrley , Richardi proximus confan- 
 guirieus , Regno Anglies a Regina Elifabethd ob Ca- 
 tholicam fidem ejedlus , beneficentid tamen Philippi 
 Regis Cath. Hifpaniarum Monarches InviSiijfimi in 
 Statu Mediolanenfi fujlentatus, hoc qualecunque mo- 
 numentum , pro rerum fuarurn tenuitate , chariffmo 
 propinquo et Illufiriffimis principibus pofuit , 5. Sept. 
 1582. et pojl fuum exilium 23. major a et honorific en- 
 tiora commendans Lotharingicis. Viator precare 
 Shuetem. 
 
 This pretended Duke of Suffolk was Sir Richard, 
 de la Poole, Brother to the Earl of Suffolk , who 
 
 ■f B was 
 
20 Pavia, Milan, &c. 
 
 v/as put to Death by Henry the Eighth. In his Ba- 
 nifhment he took upon him the Title of Duke of 
 Suffolk , which had been funk in the Family ever 
 fince the Attainder of the Great Duke of Suffolk un- 
 der the Reign of Henry the Sixth. He fought ve- 
 rv bravely in the Battle of Pavia , and was magni- 
 ficently Interr’d by the Duke of Bourbon , who, tho* 
 an Enemy, affifted at his Funeral in Mourning. 
 
 Parker himfelf is buried in the fame Place, with 
 the following Infcription. 
 
 D. O. M. 
 
 Carolo Parchero a Morley Anglo ex illujlriffimd 
 dariljimd ftirpe . gut Epifccpus Des , ob /idem Catho- 
 Ucam attus in Exilium An. xxxi peregnnatus ab 
 Invitliff. Phil Rcge Hifpan. hmeftiffimis pietatis & 
 con ft anti a preemiis ornatus moritur Anno a partu 
 Virginis , M. D. C. xi. Men. Septembris. 
 
 In Pavia is an Univerfity of Seven Colleges, one 
 of them called the College of Borromee , very largo, 
 and neatly built. There is likewife a Statue m 
 Brafs, of 'Marcus Antoninus , on Horfeback, which 
 the People of the Place call Charles the riftn, and 
 fome learned Men Conjlantine the Great. 
 
 Pavia is the Ticinum of the Ancients, which 
 took its Name from the River Ticinus which runs 
 by it, and is now call’d the Tefin. Tins River 
 falls into the Po, and is exceffively rapid. The bi- 
 fliop of Salisbury fays, that he ran down With the 
 Sr ream thirty Miles in an Hour, by the help c, but 
 one Rower. 1 do not know therefore why Sums 
 Italicus has reprefented it as fo very gentle and fbll 
 a River, in thd beautiful Defer iption he nas given ua 
 
 cf.it. 
 
 C err ule a 
 
27 
 
 Pavia , Milan , See. 
 
 Cocruleas Tlcinus aquas et Stagna vadofa 
 P erfpicuus fervat , turbari nefeia , fundo , 
 
 -Ac nitidum viridi lente trahit amne liquor em; 
 
 Vix credas lain, ripis tam mitis opacis 
 A r gut os inter ( valuer urn certamina ) cantus 
 Somnifera?n ducit lucenti gurgite lymph am. l. 4. 
 
 Smooth and untroubled the Ticinus flows, 
 
 And through the Cryftal Stream the ftiining Bottom 
 fhows : 
 
 Scarce can the Sight difeover if it moves; 
 
 So wond’rous flow amidfl: the fliady Groves, 
 
 And tuneful Birds that warble on its Sides, 
 
 Within its gloomy Banks the limpid Liquor glides. 
 
 A Poet of another Nation would not have dwelt 
 fo long upon the Ciearnefs and Tranfparency of the 
 Stream, but in Italy one feldom fees a River that is 
 extremely bright and limpid, moft of them falling 
 down from the Mountains, that make their Wa- 
 ters very troubled and muddy, whereas the Tefm is 
 only an Outlet of that vaft Lake, which the Ita- 
 lians now call the La go Maggiore. 
 
 I faw between Pavia and Milan the Convent of 
 Carthufians , which is very fpacious and beautiful. 
 Their Church is extremely fine, and curioufly 
 adorned, but of a Gothic Stru&ure. 
 
 I could not flay long in Milan without o-oin^ 
 to fee the Great Church that I had heard fo much 
 of, but was never more deceived in my Expecta- 
 tion than at my firfl: entering: For the Front 
 which was all I had feen of the Outfide, is not 
 half finifh’d, and the Infide is fo fmutted with 
 Duft and the Smoke of Lamps, that neither the 
 Marble, nor the Silver, nor Brals-Work fhew 
 
 B 2 them- 
 
2$ Pavia , Milan , &c. 
 
 thcmfelves to an Advantage. This vail Gothic 
 Pile of Building is all of Marble, except the Roof, 
 which would have been of the fame Matter with 
 the reft, had not its Weight render’d it improper 
 for that part of the Building. But for the Reafon | 
 I have juft now mention’d, the Outftde of the Church 
 looks much whiter and frefher than the Infide ; for 
 where the Marble is fo often wafh’d with Rains, it 
 preserves it felf more beautiful and unfullyed, than 
 In thofe Parts that are not at all expofed to the 
 Weather. That Side of the Church indeed, which 
 faces the Tramontane Wind, is much more un- 
 fightly than the reft, by reafon of the Dull: and 
 Smoke that are driven again!! it. This Profuhon 
 of Marble, tho’ aftonifhing to Strangers, is not very 
 wonderful in a Country that has fo many Veins 
 of it within its Bowels. But tho’ the Stones are 
 cheap, the working of them is very expenfive. It 
 is generally faid there are eleven thoufand Statues 
 about the Church, but they reckon into the Ac- 
 count every particular Figure in the Hiftory-pieces, 
 imd feveral little Images which make up the E- 
 quipage of thofe that aie larger. Them aie in- 
 deed a great Multitude of fuch as are bigger than 
 the Life: I. reckoned above two hundred and fifty on 
 the "(Jutfide of the Church, tho’ I only told three 
 Sides of it 5 and . thefe are not half io thick fet as 
 they intend them. The Statues are all of Mar- 
 ble,' and generally well cut ; but the moft valuable 
 one they have is a St. Bartholomezu , new-flead, with 
 his Skin hanging over his Shoulders : It is efteemed 
 worth its Weight in Gold : They have _ infenbed 
 this Verfe on the Pedeftal, to ftiow the Value they 
 have for the Workman. 
 
 Non 
 
29 
 
 Pavia, Milan, &c. 
 
 Non me Praxiteles fed Marcus finxit Agrati. 
 
 Left at the Sculptor doubtfully you guefs, 
 
 3 Tis Marc Agrati , not Praxiteles. 
 
 There is, juft before the Entrance of the Quire, a; 
 little Subterraneous Chapel dedicated to St. Charles 
 Bcrrcmee , where I faw his Body, in Epifcopal 
 Robes, lying upon the Altar in a Shrine of Rock- 
 Cryftal. His Chapel is adorned with abundance 
 of Silver Work: He was but two and twenty 
 Years old when he was chofen Archbifhop of Mi- 
 lan , and forty fix at his Death ; but made fo good 
 ufe of fo fhort a time, by his Works of Charity 
 and Munificence, that his Countrymen blefs his 
 Memory, which is ftill frefh among them. He 
 was Canonized about a hundred Years ago: and 
 indeed if this Elonour were due to any Man, I 
 think fuch Publick-fpirited Virtues may lav a jufter 
 Claim to it, than a four Retreat from Mankind, a 
 fiery Zeal againft Heterodoxies , a Set of Chimerical 
 Viftons, or of Whimfical Penances, which are gene- 
 rally the Qualifications of Roman Saints. Miracles 
 indeed are required of all who afpire to this Digni- 
 ty, becaufe they fay an Hypocrite may imitate a 
 Saint in all ether Particulars, and thefe they attri- 
 bute in great Number to him I am (peaking of.. 
 His Merit, and the Importunity of his Countrymen, 
 procured his Canonization before the ordinary time j 
 for it is the Policy of the Roman Church not to al- 
 low this Honour, ordinarily, till fifty Years after the 
 Death of the Perfon, who is Candidate for it ; in 
 which time it may be fuppofed that all his Con- 
 temporaries will be worn out, who could contra- 
 dict a pretended Miracle, or remember any Infir- 
 
 B 3 mity 
 
qo Pavia , Milan , &c. 
 
 mity of the Saint. One would wonder that Roman 
 Catholicks who are for this kind of Wot {hip, do 
 not generally addrefs themfelves to the Holy A- 
 poftles, who have a more unqueftionable Right to 
 the Title of Saints than thofe of a Modern Date ; 
 but thefe are at prefent quite out of Fafhion in /- 
 taly , where there is fcarce a great Town, which 
 does not pay its Devotions, in a more particular 
 manner, to fome one of their own making. This 
 renders it very fufpicious, that the Interefts of Par- 
 ticular Families, Religious Orders, Convents or 
 Churches, have too great a Sway in their Cano- 
 nizations. When I was at Milan I faw a Book 
 newly publifhed, that was Dedicated to the prefent 
 Head of the Bcrromean family, and entitled, A 
 Difcourfe on the Humility of Jefus Chrift, and of St. 
 Charles Borromee. 
 
 The Great Church of Milan has two noble Pul- 
 pits of Brafs, each of them running round a large 
 Pillar, like a Gallery, and fupported by huge Fi- 
 gures of the fame Metal. The Hiftory of our 
 Saviour, or rather of the blefled Virgin, for it be- 
 gins with her Birth, and ends with her Corona- 
 tion in Heaven, (that of our Saviour coming in by- 
 way of Epifode ) is finely cut in Marble by An- 
 drew Biffy. This Church is very rich in Relicks, 
 which run up as high as Daniel , fonao, and Abra- 
 ham. Among the reft they fhow a Fragment of 
 our Countryman Becket , as indeed there are very 
 few Treafuries of Relicks in Italy that have not a 
 Tooth or a Bone of this Saint. It would be end- 
 lefs to count up the Riches of Silver, Gold, and 
 Precious Stones, that are amafs’d together in this 
 and feveral other Churches of Milan. I was told, 
 that in Milan there are fixty Convents of Wo- 
 men, 
 
Pavia , Milan\ See. 3 1 
 
 men, eighty of Men, and two hundred Churches. 
 At the Celeftin.es is a Pidture in Frefco of the Mar- 
 riage of Cana , very much efteem’d ; but the Pain- 
 ter, whether defignedly or not, has put fix Fingers 
 to the Hand of one of the Figures: They fhow 
 the Gates of a Church that St. Ambrofa fhut a- 
 gainft: the Emperor Theadofeus , as thinking him 
 unfit to affift at Divine Service, ’till he had dofie 
 fome extraordinary Penance for his barbarous maf- 
 facring the Inhabitants of Thejftalonica. That Em- 
 peror was however fo far from being difpleas’d 
 with the Behaviour of the Saint, that at his Death 
 he committed to him the Education of his Chil- 
 dren. Several have pick’d Splinters of Wood out 
 of the . Gates for Relicks. There is a little Chapel 
 lately re-edify’d, where the fame Saint baptiz’d 
 St. Auftin. An Infcription upon the Wall of it 
 fays, that it was in this Chapel, and on this Oc- 
 cafion, that he firfi: fung his Te Deum , and that 
 his great Convert anfwer’d him Verfe by Verfe. 
 In one of the Churches I faw a Pulpit and Con- 
 feflional, very finely inlaid with Lapis-Lazuli , and 
 feveral kinds of Marble, by a Father of the Con- 
 vent. It is very lucky for a Religious, who has 
 fo much time on his hands, to be able to amufe 
 himfelf with Works of this nature ; and one often 
 finds particular Members of Convents, who have 
 excellent mechanical Genius’s, and divert them- 
 felves at leifure Hours, with Painting, Sculpture, 
 Architecture, Gardening, and feveral kinds of Han- 
 dicrafts. Since I have mention’d Confeffionals, I 
 fhall fet down here fome Infcriptions that I have 
 feen over them in Roman Catholick Countries, 
 which are all T exts of Scripture, and regard either 
 the Penitent or the Father. Abi. oftende t-e ad 
 B 4 Sa- 
 
32 Pavia, Milan , &c. 
 
 Sacerdotern Ne taceat papilla oculi tui 
 
 — Ibo ad Patre?n meum iff dicam , Pater 
 
 peccavi — Soluta crunt in Caelis Re- 
 
 di Anima mea in Requiem tuam — Fade, iff 
 
 ne deinceps pecca fjfui vos audit , me audit 
 
 Venite ad me omnes qui fatigati ejlis iff 
 
 cnerati Corripiet me jvjlus in ?nifericordid 
 
 Vide fi via Iniquitatis in me eft, iff de- 
 
 duc tne in via celernd Ut audiret gemitus 
 
 compcditorum. I faw the Ambrcfian Library, where, 
 to Ihew the Italian Genius, they have (pent more 
 Money on Pictures than on Books. Among the 
 Pleads of feveral learned Men, I met with no 
 Englijhman , except Bifhop Fijher , whom Henry 
 the Eighth put to Death for not owning his Su- 
 premacy’. Books are indeed the lead Part of the 
 Furniture that one ordinarily goes to fee in an Ita- 
 lian Library, which they generally fet off with 
 Pictures, Statues, and other Ornaments, where they 
 can afford them, after the Example of the old Greeks 
 and Romans. 
 
 * • ■ ■ Plena omnia gypfo 
 
 Chryfippi invcnias : nam perfedtiffmus horufn eft. 
 Si quis Ariflotelem fimilem vel Pittacon emit , 
 
 Et jubet arcketypos pluteum fervare Cleanthas. 
 
 Juv. Sat. 2.. 
 
 Chryfppus ’ Statue decks thy Library. 
 
 Who makes his Study fined, is mod read ; 
 
 The Dolt that with an Ariflotle ' s Head, 
 
 Carv’d to the Life, has once adorn’d his Shelf, 
 Straight fets up for a Stagirite himfelf. Fate , 
 
Pavza, Milan , &c. 33 
 
 geaT s Elements, a Head of Titian by his own 
 Hand, a Manufcript in Latin of Jofephus , which 
 the Bifhop of Salisbury fays was written about the 
 Age of Theodofius , and another of Leonardus Vin- 
 cius , which King James the Firft could not pro- 
 cure, tho’ he proffer’d for it three thoufand Spanijh 
 Pifloles. It confifts of Defignings in Mecbanilfn 
 and Engineering : I was fhewn in it a. Sketch of 
 Bombs and Mortars, as they arenowufed. Canon 
 Settala’ s Cabinet is always fhewn to a Stranger a- 
 mong the Curiofities of Milan , which I fhall not 
 be particular upon, the Printed Account of it be- 
 ing common enough. Among its natural Curiofi- 
 ties, I took particular notice of a Piece of Cryflal, 
 that inclos’d a couple of Drops, which look’d like 
 Water when they were fhaken, tho’ perhaps they 
 are nothing but Bubbles of Air. It is fuch a Pa- 
 rity as this that I faw at Fendofne in France , which 
 they there pretend is a Tear that our Saviour fhed 
 over Lazarus , and was gather’d up by an Angel, 
 who put it in a little Cryflal Vial, and made a 
 Prefent of it to Mary Magdalene. The famous 
 Fere Mabillon is now engaged in the Vindication 
 of this Tear, which a learned Ecclefiaftic, in the 
 Neighbourhood of Vendome , would have fupprefled, 
 as a falfe and ridiculous Relick, in a Book that he 
 has dedicated to his Diocefan the Bifhop of Bids. 
 It is in the PofTeflion of a Benedidtin Convent, 
 which raifes a confiderable Revenue out of the De- 
 votion that is paid to it, and has now retained the 
 mofl learned Father of their Order to write in its 
 Defence. 
 
 It was fuch a Curiofity as this I have mention’d, 
 that Claudian has celebrated in about half a Score 
 Epigrams. 
 
 B 5 
 
 Sclibus 
 
34 Pavia , Milan , See. 
 
 Solibus indomitum glacies Alplna rigorent 
 Surnebat , nimio jam preciofa gelu. 
 
 Nec potuit toto mentiri corpore gemmam, 
 
 Sed medio manfit proditor orbe latex : 
 
 Aucius honor ; liquidi crefcunt miracula faxi , 
 
 Et confervata plus meruifris aqua. 
 
 Deep in the fnowy Alpes a Lump of Ice 
 By F rolls was harden’d to a mighty Price ; 
 
 Proof to the Sun, it now fecurely lies, 
 
 And the warm Dog- liar’s hotteft Rage defies : 
 
 Yet {till unripen’d in the dewy Mines, 
 
 Within the Ball a trembling Water Ihines, 
 
 That through the Cryltal darts its fpurious Rays, 
 And the proud Stone’s Original betrays : 
 
 But common Drops, when thus with Cryltal mixt, 
 Are valu’d more, than if in Rubies fixt. 
 
 As I walk’d thro’ one of the Streets of Milan y 
 I was furpris’d to read the following Infcription, 
 concerning a Barber, that had confpired with the 
 CommilTary of Health and others to poifon his Fel- 
 low-Citizens. There is a void Space where his 
 Houfe Hood, and in the midlt of it a Pillar, fuper- 
 ferib’d Colonna Infame. The Story is told in hand- 
 fom Latin , which I {hall fet down, as having never 
 feen it tranferibed. 
 
 Hie, ubi heze Area patens ejl y 
 Surgebat olim Tonjlrina 
 Jo' Jacobi Mora: 
 
 fh.i fa£ld cum Gulielmo Platea publ. Sanit. Cotn- 
 mijfario 
 
 Et cu?n aliis Confpiratione r 
 Dum pejlis atrox faviret y 
 
 Lethiferis 
 
35 
 
 Pavia , Milan , • &c. 
 
 Lethiferis unguentis hue & illuc afperfs 
 Plures acl dirarn mortem compulit. 
 
 Hos igitur atnbos , hoftes patr’uz judicatos , 
 Excelfo in plaujlro 
 Candenti pritis veil/ cat os forcipe 
 Et dexter d muldlatos manu 
 Rota, infringi 
 
 Rotaque intext os poji boras fex jugular i, 
 Comburi deinde , 
 
 Ac , quid tam Scelejlorum ho?ninum reliqui fit , 
 
 Publicatis bonis 
 Cineres in fiumen projici 
 Senatus jujfit : 
 
 Cujus rei manor ia ceterna ut ft , 
 
 Hanc domurn , Sceleris ojfcinam , 
 iSVtf cequari , 
 
 yfc nunquam in pofterum refei s 
 Et erigi Columnam , 
 
 PPurs vocatur Infamis , 
 
 Idem ordo maridavit. 
 
 Procul bine procul ergo 
 Boni Cives , 
 
 AV Vos Infelix , Infame folian 
 Comma culet ! 
 
 M. D. C. xxx. C7//. Augufi. f ,.- 
 Prafde Pub. Sanitatis M. Antonio Mont to Senators 
 R. JuJlities Cap. Jo. Baptjld Vicecomit., 
 
 The Citadel of Milan is thought a ftrong Fort 
 in Italy, and has held out formerly after the Con- 
 queft of the reft of the Dutchy. The Governor 
 of it is independent on the Governor of Milan ; 
 as the Perfans ufed to make the Rulers of Provin- 
 ces and Fortreffes of different Conditions and In- 
 terefts, to prevent Confpiracies, 
 
 At 
 
36 Pavia, Milan , &c. 
 
 At two Miles diftance from Milan , there ftands 
 a Building, that would have been a Mafter-piece in 
 its kind, had the Architect defign’d it for an artifi- 
 cial Echo. We difcharg’d a Piftol, and had the 
 Sound return’d upon us above fifty fix times, tho’ 
 the Air was very foggy. The fir ft Repetitions follow 
 one another very thick, but are heard more diftimft- 
 ly in proportion as they decay : There are two pa- 
 rallel Walls which beat the Sound back on each o- 
 ther, till the Undulation is quite worn Out, like the 
 feveral Reverberations of the fame Image from two 
 oppofite Looking-glafles. Father Kircher has taken 
 notice of this particular Echo, as Father Bartolin 
 has done fince in his ingenious Difcourfe on Sounds. 
 The State of Milan is like a vaft Garden, furround- 
 ed by a noble Moundwork of Rocks and Moun- 
 tains : Indeed, if a Man confiders the Face of Italy 
 in general, one would think that Nature had laid 
 it out into fuch a Variety of States and Govern- 
 ments as one finds in it. For as the Alpes at one 
 end, and the long Range of Apennines , that pafles 
 through the Body of it, branch out on all fides into 
 feveral different Divificns ; they ferve as fo many na- 
 tural Boundaries and Fortifications to the little Ter- 
 ritories that lie among them. Accordingly we find 
 the whole Country cut into a multitude of parti- 
 cular Kingdoms and Commonwealths in the oldeft 
 Accounts we have of it, till the Power of the Ro- 
 mans, like a Torrent that overflows its Banks, bore 
 down all before it, and fpread it felf into the re- 
 moteft Corners of the Nation. But as this exorbi- 
 tant Power became unable to fupport it felf, we 
 find the Government of Italy again broken into fuch 
 a Variety of Suh-divifions, as naturally fuits with 
 its Situation. 
 
 In 
 
Pavia , Milan , &c. 37 
 
 In the Court of Milan , as in feveral others of 
 Italy , there are many who fall in with the Drefs 
 and Carriage of the French. One may however 
 obferve a kind of aukwardnefs in the Italians , which 
 eafily difcovers the Airs they give themfelves not 
 to be natural. It is indeed very ftrange there fhould 
 be fuch a Diverfity of Manners, where there is 
 fo fmall a difference in the Air and Climate. The 
 French are always open, familiar, and talkative : 
 The Italians , on the contrary, are ftiff, ceremo- 
 nious, and referved. In France every one aims at 
 a Gaiety and Sprightlinefs of Behaviour, and thinks 
 it an Accomplifhment to be brisk and lively: The 
 Italians , notwithftanding their natural Fierinefs of 
 Temper, affedt always to appear fober and fedate ; 
 infomuch that one fometimes meets Young Men 
 walking the Streets with Spectacles on their Nofes, 
 that they may be thought to have impaired their 
 Sight by much Study, and feem more Grave and 
 Judicious than their Neighbours. This Difference 
 of Manners proceeds chiefly from Difference of E- 
 ducation : In France it is ufual to bring their Chil- 
 dren into Company, and to cherifh in them, from 
 their Infancy, a kind of Forwardnefs and Affu- 
 rance : Befldes, that the French apply themfelves 
 more univerfally to their Exercifes than any other 
 Nation in the World, fo that one feldom fees a 
 young Gentleman in France that does not hence. 
 Dance, and Ride in fome tolerable Perfe&ion. 
 Thefe Agitations of the Body do not only give 
 them a free and eafy Carriage, but have a kind 
 of Mechanical Operation on the Mind, by keeping 
 the Animal Spirits always awake and in Motion. 
 But what contributes moil to this light airy Hu- 
 mour of the French , is the free Converfation that 
 
 is 
 
38 Pavia, Milan , &c. 
 
 is allowed them with their Women, which dees 
 not only communicate to them a certain Vivacity 
 of Temper, but makes them endeavour after fuch 
 a Behaviour as is moil: taking with the Sex. 
 
 The Italians , on the contrary, who are excluded 
 from making their Court this way, are for recom- 
 mending themfelves to thofe they converfe with by 
 their Gravity and Wifdom. In Spain therefore,, 
 where there are fewer Liberties of this Nature al- 
 lowed, there is fomething {till more ferious and 
 compofed in the Manner of the Inhabitants. But 
 as Mirth is more apt to make Profelytes than Me- 
 lancholy, it is obferved that the Italians have many 
 of them for thefe late Years given very far into 
 the Modes and Freedoms of the French ; which 
 prevail more or lefs in the Courts of Italy , as they 
 lie at a fmaller or greater Diftance from France. 
 It may be here worth while to confider how it comes 
 to pafs, that the Common People of Italy have in 
 general fo very great an Averfion to the French , 
 which every Traveller cannot but be fenfible of, 
 that has palled through the Country. The moft 
 obvious Reafon is certainly the great Difference that 
 there is in the Humours and Manners of the two 
 Nations, which always works more in the meaner 
 fort, who are not able to vanquifh the Prejudices 
 of Education, than with the Nobility. Befides, that 
 the French Humour, in regard of the Liberties they 
 take in Female Converfations, and their great Am- 
 bition to excel in all Companies, is in a more parti- 
 cular manner very {hocking to the Italians , who are 
 naturally Jealous, and value themfelves upon their 
 great Wifdom. At the fame time, the common 
 People of Italy , who run more into News and Po- 
 liticks than thofe of other Countries, have all of 
 
 them 
 
Pavia , Milan , &c. 39 
 
 them fomething to exafperate them againft the King 
 of France. The Savoyards , notwithftanding the 
 prefent Inclinations of their Court, cannot forbear 
 refenting the infinite Mifchiefs he did them in the 
 laft War. The Milanese and Neapolitans remem- 
 ber the many Infults he has offer’d to the Houfe 
 of Auftria , and particularly to their deceafed King, 
 for whom they Hill retain a natural kind of Ho- 
 nour and Affection. The Genoefe cannot forget his 
 Treatment of their Doge, and his bombarding their 
 City. The Venetians will tell you of his Leagues 
 with the Turks ; and the Romans , of his Threats 
 to Pope Innocent the Eleventh, whofe Memory they 
 adore. It is true, that Intereft of State, and Change 
 of Circumftances, may have fweetned thefe Reflec- 
 tions to the Politer Sort, but Impreffions are not fo 
 eafily worn out of the Minds of the Vulgar. That 
 however, which I take to be the principal Motive 
 among moft of the Italians, for their favouring the 
 Germans above the French , is this, that they are 
 entirely perfuaded it is for the Intereft of Italy , to 
 have Milan and Naples rather in the Hands of the 
 firft, than of the other. One may generally ob- 
 ferve, that the Body of a People has jufter Views 
 for the Publick Good, and purfues them with greater 
 Uprightnefs than the Nobility and Gentry, who 
 have fo many private Expeftations and particular 
 Interefts, which hang like a falfe Bias upon their 
 Judgments, and may poflibly difpofe them to fa- 
 crifice the Good of their Country, to the Advance- 
 ment of their own Fortunes; whereas the Grofs 
 of the People can have no other Profpedt in Changes 
 and Revolutions than of publick Bleffings, that are 
 to diffufe themfelves thro’ the whole State in ge- 
 neral. 
 
 To 
 
40 Pavia , Milan , &c. 
 
 To return to Milan : I fhall here fet down the 
 Defcription Aufonius has given of it, among the reft 
 of his great Cities. 
 
 Et Mediolani mira omnia , copia rerum : 
 
 Innumera: cult toque domus , facunda virorum 
 Ingenia , et mores lati . Turn duplice muro 
 Amplificata loci fpccies , populique voluptas 
 Circus , et inch ft moles c uneat a Theatri : 
 
 T empla , P alatin&que arces , opulenfque Moneta , 
 
 .£7 regio Hercules Celebris ab honore lavacri, 
 Cunclaque marmoreis ornata periftyla Signis , 
 
 Omnia qua: tnagnis operum velut a mu la formis 
 Excellunt ; nec junfta premit vicinia Romce. 
 
 Milan with Plenty and with Wealth overflows, 
 
 And num’rous Streets and cleanly Dwellings {hows. 
 The People, blefs’d with Nature’s happy borce. 
 
 Are Eloquent and Chearful in Difcourfe; 
 
 A Circus and a Theatre invites 
 Th’unruly Mob to Ra ces and to Fights ; 
 
 Moneta confecrated Buildings grace, 
 
 And the whole Town redoubled Walls embracer 
 Here fpacious Baths and Palaces are feen, 
 
 And intermingled Temples rife between; 
 
 Here circling Colonnades he Ground inclofe. 
 
 And here the marble Statues breathe in Rows : 
 Profufely grac’d the happy Town appears. 
 
 Nor Rome it felf, her beauteous Neighbour, fears. 
 
 BRESCIA 
 
B R E S C I Ay 
 
 V E R 0 N A, 
 PAD U A. 
 
 ROM Milan wetravell’d thro’ a very 
 pleafant Country to Brefcia , and by 
 the way crofs’d the River Adda , that 
 falls into the Logo di Como, which 
 Virgil calls the Lake Larins, and run- 
 ning out at the other End lofes it felf 
 at laft'in the Po , which is the great Receptacle of 
 all the Rivers of this Country. The Town and 
 Province of Brefcia have freer Accefs to the Senate 
 of Vejiice , and a quicker Redrefs of Injuries, than 
 any other Part of their Dominions. They have al- 
 ways a mild and prudent Governor, and live much? 
 more happily than their Fellow-Subjedts : For as 
 they were once a Part of the Milanefe , and are 
 now on their Frontiers, the Venetians dare not exaf- 
 perate them, by the Loads they lay on other Pro- 
 vinces, for fear of a Revolt ; and are forced to treat 
 them with more Indulgence than the Spaniards do 
 their Neighbours, that they may have no Tempta- 
 tion 
 
42 Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 
 
 tation to it. Brefcia is famous for its Iron-Works. 
 A fmall Day’s Journey more brought us to Vero- 
 na. We favv the Lake Benacus in our way, whieh 
 the Italians now call La go di Garda : It was fo 
 rough with Tempefts when we pafs’d by it, that 
 it brought into my mind Virgil s noble Description 
 of it. 
 
 Adde lacus tantos , te Lari maxime , tcque 
 Fludiibus et f remit u afj'urgens , Benace , marino . 
 
 Here vex’d by Winter Storms Benacus raves. 
 Confus’d with working Sands and rolling Waves; 
 Rough and tumultuous like a Sea it lies. 
 
 So loud the Temped: roars, fo high the Billows rife. 
 
 This Lake perfectly refembles a Sea, when it is 
 work’d up by Storms. It is thirty five Miles in 
 length, and twelve in breadth. At the lower end 
 of it we crofs’d the Mincio. 
 
 — — Vardis ingens ubi flexibus err at 
 
 MinciuSy et tenerd prat exit arundine ripas. . G. 3. 
 
 Where the flow Mincius thro’ the Valley ftrays : 
 Where cooling Streams invite the Flocks to drink, 
 And Reeds defend the winding Waters Brink. 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 The River Adige runs thro’ V erona ; fo much is 
 the Situation of the d own chang’d from what it 
 was in Stilus Italicus his Time. 
 
 • Verona Athefi circumflua, L. 8, 
 
 Verona by the circling Adige bound. 
 
 This 
 
Bre/cia , Verona , Padua. 43 
 
 This is the only great River in Lombardy that 
 dees not fall into the Po ; which it muft have done, 
 had it run but a little further before its entering the 
 Adriatic k. The Rivers are all of them mention’d 
 by Claudian. 
 
 — V enetofque ere Slier amnes 
 
 Magna, voce ciet. Frondentibus bumida ripis 
 Colla levant , pulcher Ticinus , et Addua viju 
 Cceruleus , et velox A the ft s^ tardufque rneatu 
 Mincius , inque novem confurgens ora Timavus. 
 
 Sexto Con. Hon. 
 
 Venetians Rivers, fummon’d all around, 
 
 Hear the loud Call, and anfwer to the Sound : 
 
 Her dropping Looks the Silver Tejftn rears, 
 
 The blue tranfparent Adda next appears, 
 
 The rapid Adige then eredts her Head, 
 
 And Mincio rifing flowly from his Bed, 
 
 And laft Timavus that with eager force 
 
 From nine wide Mouths comes gufhingto his Courfe. 
 
 His Larius is doubtlefs an Imitation of Virgil's 
 Benacus. 
 
 — -Umbras d v eft it qua littus olivd 
 
 Larius , et ditlci mentitur Nerea fluSlu. 
 
 De Bel. Get. 
 
 The Larius here, with Groves of Olives crown’d. 
 An Ocean of frelh Water fpreads around. 
 
 I faw at Verona the famous Amphitheatre, that 
 with a few modern Reparations has all the Seats en- 
 tire. There is fomething very noble in it, tho’ the 
 high Wall and Corridors that went round it are 
 
 almoft 
 
44 Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 
 
 almoft entirely ruined, and the Area is quite filled 
 up to the lower Seat, which v/as formerly deep e- 
 nough to let the Spectators fee in Safety the Combats 
 of the wild Beafts and Gladiators. Since I have 
 Claudlan before me, I cannot forbear fetting down 
 the beautiful Defcription he has made of a wild Beaft 
 newly brought from the Woods, and making its fir ft 
 Appearance in a full Amphitheatre. 
 
 Ut fera qua nuper mantes amifit avitos , 
 
 Altorumque exul nemorum , damnatur arena 
 Muneribus , commota ruit ; vir murmure contra 
 Hortaiur , nixnfque genu venabida tendit ; 
 
 Ilia pavet Jlrepitus , cuneofque eredta Theatre 
 Defpicit , et tanti miratur fibila vulgi. In Ruf. L. 2. 
 
 So rufhes on his Foe the gri'fiy Bear, 
 
 That, banifh’d from the Hills and bufhy Brakes* 
 His old hereditary Haunts forfakes. 
 
 Condemn’d the cruel Rabble to delight, 
 
 His angry Keeper goads him to the Fight. 
 
 Bent on his Knee, tire Savage glares around, 
 
 Scar’d with the mighty Croud’s promifcuous Sound 
 Then rearing on his hinder Paws retires, 
 
 And the vaft hiding Multitude admires. 
 
 There are fome other Antiquities in Verona , of 
 which the principal is the Ruin of a Triumphal 
 Arch erefted to Flaminius , where one fees old Do- 
 ric Pillars without any Pedeftal or Bafis, as Vitru- 
 vius has defcribed them. I have not yet feen any 
 Gardens in Italy worth taking Notice of. The 
 Italians fall as far fhort of the French in this Par- 
 ticular, as they excel them in their Palaces. It 
 mult however be faid } to the Honour of the Italians , 
 
 that 
 
Brefcia , Verona, Padua. 45 
 
 that the French took from them the firft Plans of 
 their Gardens, as well as of their Water-Works ; 
 fo that their furpaffmg of them at prefent is to be 
 attributed rather to the Greatnefs of their Riches, 
 than the Excellence of their Tafte. I faw the 
 Terrace- Garden of Verona , that Travellers gene- 
 rally mention. Among the Churches of Verona , 
 that of St. George is the handfomeft : Its chief Or- 
 nament is the Martyrdom of the Saint, drawn by 
 Paul Veronefe ; as there are many other Pictures 
 about the Town by the fame Hand. A Stranger 
 is always fhown the Tomb of Pope Lucius , who 
 lies buried in the Dome. I faw in the fame Church 
 a Monument eredted by the Publick to one of their 
 Bifhops : The Infcription fays, that there was be- 
 tween him and his Maker, Summa NeccJJiiudo , 
 Summa Similitudo. The Italian Epitaphs are often 
 more extravagant than thofe of other Countries, as 
 the Nation is more given to Compliment and Hy- 
 perbole. From Verona to Padua we travelled thro’ 
 a very pleafant Country : It is planted thick with 
 Rows of white Mulberry-trees, that furnifh Food 
 for great Quantities of Silk -Worms with their 
 Leaves, as the Swine and Poultry confume the 
 Fruit. The Trees themfelves ferve, at the fame 
 time, as fo many Stays for their Vines, w r hich 
 hang all along like Garlands from Tree to Tree. 
 Between the feveral Ranges lie Fields of Corn, 
 which in thefe Warm Countries ripens much bet- 
 ter among the Mulberry Shades, than if it were 
 expofed to the open Sun. This was one Reafon 
 why the Inhabitants of this Country, when I palled 
 thro’ it, were extremely apprehenfive of feeing 
 Lombardy the Seat of War, which muff have made 
 jniferable Havock among their Plantations j for it 
 
46 Brefcia, Verona , Padua. 
 
 is not here as in the Corn Fields of Flanders , 
 where the whole Product of the Place rifes from 
 Year to Year. We arrived fo late at Vicenza , that 
 we had not time to take a full Sight of the Place. 
 The next Day brought us to Padua. St. Anthony ^ 
 who lived above five hundred Years ago, is the great 
 Saint to whom they here pay their Devotions. He 
 lies buried in the Church that is dedicated to him 
 at prefent, tho’ it was formerly confecrated to the 
 Bleffed Virgin. It is extremely magnificent, and 
 very richly adorned. There are narrow Clefts in 
 the Monument that fiands over him, where good 
 Catholicks rub their Beads, and fmell his Bones, 
 which they fay have in them a natural Perfume, 
 tho’ very like Apoplectic Balfam ; and what would 
 make one fufpeft that they rub the Marble with 
 it, it is obferved that the Scent is ftronger in the 
 Morning than at Night, There are abundance of 
 Inferiptions and Pictures hung up by his Votaries 
 in feveral Parts of the Church: For it is the way 
 of thofe that are in any fignal Danger to implore 
 his Aid, and if they come off fafe they call their 
 Deliverance a Miracle, and perhaps hang up the 
 Picture or Defcription of it in the Church. This 
 Cu flora fpoils the Beauty of feveral Roman Catho- 
 lick Churches, and often covers the Walls with 
 wretched Daubings, impertinent Inferiptions, Hands, 
 Legs, and Arms of Wax, with a thoufand idle 
 Offerings of the fame nature. 
 
 They fell at Padua the Life of St. Anthony , 
 which is read with great Devotion ; the moft re- 
 markable Part of it is his Difcourfe to an Affembly 
 of Fifh. As the Audience and Sermon are both 
 very extraordinary, I will let down the whole Paf- 
 fage at length. 
 
 Non 
 
Brefcia , Verona , Padua . 47 
 
 A t ot curando gli Heretici il fuo parl-are , ft 
 
 come era alia rlua del mare , sbocca il jiun.e 
 
 Marecchia , chiam'o da parte di Dio li pefci, che ve- 
 niffero d J'cntir la fua fanta parola. Et ecco che 
 di fubito fopra P acque nuotando gran moltiiudine di 
 varii , diverfi pefci , ^ del mare , e &V/ fume , 
 
 fi unirono tutti , fecondo le fpecie loro , e con bell or - 
 dine, quaji che di ragion capaci Jlati foffero , atten- 
 ti y e cheti non gratiofo fpettacolo s’ accommodaro per 
 fentir la parola di Dio. Cio veduto il fanto entro 
 al cuor fuo di dolcezza Jlillandoft , tsf altretanta 
 maraviglia inarcando le ciglia , della obedientia di 
 quejle irragionevofi creature cost comincio loro d 
 parlare. Se bene in tutto le cose create ( cari , 
 amati pefci) ft fcuopere la potenza, & providenza 
 infinita di Dio , como nel Cielo , »*/ «*?//# Lu- 
 
 na , nelle S telle, in quejlo mondo inferior e, nel huo- 
 mo , wz7/<? altre creature perfette , nondimeno in Voi 
 
 particolarmente lampeggia e rifplende la bonta della 
 maefla divina ; per che fe bene fiete chiamati Ret- 
 tili, mezzi fra pietre, e bruti , confinati nelli pro- 
 fondi abiffi delte ondeggiante acque : agitati fern- 
 pre da flutti : tnojf fempre da procelle ; yir^z - #/’ 
 udire, mutoli al parlare , iff horridi al vedere ; con 
 tutto cio in Voi maravigliofamente ft fcorge la Di- 
 vina grandezza ; da voi ft cavano la maggiori 
 mifterii della bontd di Dio , ft parla di voi 
 
 nella Scrittura Sacra , cA wot w ft afcoflo qual- 
 che profondo Sacramento \ Credete voi , che fia fenza ' 
 grandiffimo mifterio , che il primo dono fatto da IP 
 omnipot ente Iddio all ’ huomo foffe di voi Pefci ? Cre- 
 dete voi che non fa mifterio in quejlo, che di tutte 
 le creature, e di tutti gP animali ft ften fatti facri- 
 ficii , eccetto , che di voi Pefci ? Credete, che non 
 vi fia qualche fecreto in quejlo , che Chrijlo nojlro 
 
 falvatore 
 
48 Brejcia , Verona , Padua. 
 
 falvatore dalV agnelo pafquale in poi, f compiaque 
 tanto del cibi di voi pefci ? Crcdete , che fia a cafo 
 due ft 0, che dovendo il Redentor del mondo , pagar , 
 
 Sacromenti : percio fiete particolannente obligati a 
 lodare il vofro Creatore : amati pefci di Dio ha - 
 vete ricevuto l’ effere, la vita , li moto , e'l fenfo ; 
 per fanza vi fid data li liquido elemento dell ’ yff- 
 fecondo che alia vojlra naturale inclinatione 
 tonviene : ivi hd fatti amplifftmi alberghi , fanze , 
 caverne , grotte, e fecreti lucgi d voi pin che [ale 
 Regie , * regal Palazzi , ctfrz,' * grati ; fcf 
 p r ia fede havete Vacqua , elemento diafano , tranf 
 parente , <? fempre lucido quafi erf alio , <? verro ; £2? 
 
 ^ bajfe , e profonde vojlre fanze fcorgete cid 
 che fopra acqua 6 fi fa, 6 nuota ; havete gli occhi 
 quafi di Lince , 0 dt Argo, & da caufa non errante 
 guidati , feguite cio che vi giova , & aggrada \ & 
 fuggite cio che vi nuoce , havete natural defio di con- 
 fer varvi fecondo le fpetie vofre , fafe, opr ate & ca- 
 niinate ove natura vi cletta fenza contrafro alcuno ; 
 
 algor d'inverno , ne color di f ate vi offend e, 3 
 nuoce: fiaft per fereno , 0 turbato il rich, che alii 
 vofri tumuli alberghi ne frutto , apporta ; 
 
 fiafi pure abbondevole de fuoi tefori , 0 fcarfa de fuoi 
 frutti la terra , che a voi nulla giova ;■ pieva, tuoni, 
 "faetti , lampaggi , e fubiffi il mondo , che . <7 voi cio 
 poco importa ; verdeggi primmer a , . fealdi la fate , 
 fruitifichi V Autunno, & affidcri li inverno , quefo 
 ■non vi rileva punto : ne trappaffar del ’ bore, ne cor- 
 ner de giorni , ne volar de mefi , fuggir d’anni , 
 
 mutar de tempi , cangiar de fagioni vi dan 
 
 penfiero alcuno , ma fempre Jicura , 6 s tranquilla vita 
 liatamente vivere : O quanto, 0 quanto grande la 
 
 Maefd 
 
Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 49 
 
 Maefd di Dio in voi ft fcuopre, O quanto mirabile la 
 potcnza fua ; O quanto Jlupenda , 6 s maravigliofa fa 
 fua providenza ; poi cbe fra tutte le creature dell * 
 univerfo voi folo non fentijli il diluvio univerfale 
 delT acque \ ne provajli i clanni , che egli face al 
 mondo ; e tutto quejlo cl? io ho detto dovrebbe muo- 
 vervi a lodar Dio , a ringratiare fua divina ?nacjld 
 di tanti e cofi fmgolari benefcii , chc vi ha fatti ; di 
 twite gratie , che vi ha conferite ; di tanti favori, di 
 che vi ha fatti degna ; per tanto , fe non potete fnodar 
 la lingua d ringratiar il voflro Benefatiore , & non 
 fapete con parole efprimer le fue lodi , fatele fegno di 
 river enza almeno ; chinatevi al fuo name ; mojlrate 
 nel modo che potete fembiante di gratitudine ; rende- 
 te<vi benevoli alia bontd fua , in quel miglior modo che 
 potete ; O fapete , non fate fconofcenti de fuoi bencfi- 
 cii , itf non fate ingrati de fuoi favori. A quefo dire , 
 O maraviglia grande , come ft quelli pefci kaveffero ha- 
 vuto humano intelletto , e difcorfo , con gefi di pro- 
 fond a Hu mi lid, con river enti fembianti di religione , 
 chinarono la tefa , blandiro cod corpo , quaf appro- 
 vando cio che detto havea il benedetto padre St. 
 Antonio. 
 
 “ When the Hereticks would not regard his 
 “ Preaching, he betook himfelf to the Sea-fhore, 
 “ where the River Marecchia difembogues it felf 
 “ into the Adriatic. He here called the Filh toge- 
 “ ther in the Name of God, that they might hear 
 “ bis holy Word. The Fifh came fwimming to- 
 <c wards him in fuch vaft Shoals, both from the 
 “ Sea and from the River, that the Surface of the 
 “ Water was quite covered with their Multitudes. 
 <£ They quickly ranged themfelves, according to 
 “ their feveral Species, into a very beautiful Con- 
 u gregation, and, like fo many rational Gestures, ' 
 
£0 Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 
 
 44 prefented themfelves before him to hear the Word 
 44 of God. St. Antonio was fo ftruck with the mi- 
 44 raculous Obedience and Submiffion of thefe poor 
 44 Animals, that he found a fecret Sweetnefs diftil- 
 44 ling upon his Soul, and at laft addrefled himfelf 
 44 to them in the following Words. 
 
 44 Altho’ the Infinite Power and Providence of 
 44 God (my dearly beloved Fifti) difcovers it felf in 
 44 all the Works of his Creation, as in the Heavens* 
 44 in the Sun, in the Moon, and in the Stars, in 
 44 this lower World, in Man, and in other perfect 
 44 Creatures; neverthelefs the Goodnefs of the Di- 
 44 vine Majefty fhines out in you more eminently, 
 44 and appears after a more particular manner, than 
 44 in any other Created Beings. For notwithftan- 
 44 ding you are comprehended under the Name of 
 44 Reptiles , partaking of a middle Nature between 
 44 Stones and Beafts, and Imprifoned in the Deep 
 44 Abyfs of Waters ; notwithftanding you are toft 
 44 among Billows, thrown up and down by Tem- 
 44 pefts, deaf to Hearing, dumb to Speech, and ter- 
 44 rible to behold : notwithftanding, I fay, thefe 
 44 natural Difadvantages, the Divine Greatnefs 
 44 (hows it felf in you after a very wonderful Man- 
 44 ner. In you are feen the mighty Myfteries of 
 44 an Infinite Goodnefs. The Holy Scripture has 
 44 always made ufe of you, as the Types and Sha- 
 44 dows of fome profound Sacrament. 
 
 44 Do you think that, without a Myftery, the 
 44 firft Prefent that God Almighty made to Man, 
 44 was of you, O ye Fifties ? Do you think that 
 44 without a Myftery, among all Creatures and 
 44 Animals which were appointed for Sacrifices, you 
 44 only were excepted, O ye Fifties ? Do you think 
 44 there was nothing meant by our Saviour Chrift, 
 
 44 that 
 
Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 5 1 
 
 44 that next to the Pafchal Lamb he took fo much 
 44 Pleafure in the Food of you, O ye Fifties ? Do 
 44 you think it was by meer Chance, that when 
 44 the Redeemer of the World was to pay a Tri- 
 44 bute to Ccefar , he thought fit to find it- in the 
 44 Mouth of a Fifti ? Thefe are all of them fo ma- 
 44 ny Myfteries and Sacraments, that oblige you 
 “in a more particular manner to the Praifes of 
 44 your Creator. 
 
 44 It is from God, my beloved Fifti, that you 
 44 have received Being, Life, Motion, and Senfe. 
 44 It is he that has given you, in Compliance with 
 44 your natural Inclinations, the whole World of 
 44 Waters for your Habitation. It is he that has 
 44 furniftied it with Lodgings, Chambers, Caverns, 
 44 Grottoes, and fuch magnificent Retirements as 
 44 are not to be met with in the Seats of Kings, or 
 44 in the Palaces of Princes: You have the Water 
 44 for your Dwelling, a clear tranfparent Element, 
 44 brighter than Cryftal ; you can fee from its 
 44 deepeft Bottom every thing that pafles on its 
 44 Surface ; you have the Fyes of a Lynx, or of 
 44 an Argus ; you are guided by a fecret and uner- 
 44 ring Principle, delighting in every thing that may 
 44 be beneficial to you, and avoiding every thing 
 “ that may be hurtful ; you are carried on by a 
 “ hidden Inftindl to preferve your felves, and to 
 “ propagate your Species ; you obey, in all your 
 “ Actions, Works and Motions, the Dictates and 
 “ Suggeftions of Nature, without the leaft Repug- 
 “ nancy or Contradi6fion. 
 
 “ The Colds of Winter, and the Heats of Sum- 
 44 mer, are equally incapable of molefting you. A 
 44 ferene or a clouded Sky are indifferent to you. 
 44 Let the Earth abound in Fruits, or be curfed 
 
 C 2 with 
 
C2 Brefcia , Verona , Padua . 
 
 44 with Scarcity, it has no Influence on your Wel- 
 44 fare. You live fecure in Rains and Thunders, 
 44 Lightnings arid Earthquakes ; you have no Con- 
 44 cern in the Blofloms of Spring, or in the Glow- 
 44 ings of Summer, in the Fruits of Autumn, or 
 44 in the F rolls of Winter. You are not folici- 
 44 tous about Hours or Days, Months or Years ; 
 44 the Variablenefs of the Weather, or the Change 
 44 of Seafons. 
 
 44 In what dreadful Majefly, in what wonderful 
 44 Power, in what amazing Providence did God 
 44 Almighty diflinguifh you among all the Species 
 44 of Creatures that perifhed in the Univerfal De- 
 44 luge ! You only were infenfible of the Mifchief 
 44 that had laid wafle the whole World. 
 
 44 All this, as I have already told you, ought to 
 44 infpire you with Gratitude and Praife towards the 
 44 Divine Majefty, that has done fo great things 
 44 for you, granted you fuch particular Graces and 
 44 Privileges, and heaped upon you fo many diflin- 
 44 guilhing Favours. And fince for all this you 
 44 cannot employ your Tongues in the Praifes of 
 44 your Benefa&or, and are not provided with 
 44 Words to exprefs your Gratitude; make at leaft 
 44 fome Sign of Reverence ; bow your felves at his 
 44 Name; give fome fhow of Gratitude, according 
 44 to the. bell of your Capacities ; exprefs your 
 44 Thanks in the moft becoming manner that you 
 44 are able, and be not unmindful of all the Bene- 
 44 fits he has bellowed upon you. 
 
 44 He had no fooner done fpeaking, but behold 
 44 a Miracle ! The Fifh, as tho’ they had been en- 
 44 dued with Reafon, bowed down their Heads with 
 44 all the Marks of a profound Humility and De- 
 44 votion, moving their Bodies up and down with 
 
 a 
 
Brefcia , Verona , Padua . 53 
 
 a kind of Fondilefs, as approving what had been 
 “ fpoken by the blelfed Father, St. Antonio. The 
 “ Legend adds, that after many Hereticks, who 
 u were prefent at the Miracle, had been converted 
 “ by it, the Saint gave his Benediction to theFifh, 
 “ and d i fm i Ted them.” 
 
 Several other the like Stories of St. Antony a r e 
 reprefented about his Monument in a \ery fine 
 Bajjo Relievo. 
 
 I could not forbear letting down the Titles given 
 to St. Antony in one of the "Fables that hangs up to 
 him, as a Token of Gratitude from a poor Peafant, 
 who fanfied the Saint had laved him from breaking, 
 his Neck. 
 
 Sacratijjimi pufionis Bethlehemitici 
 Lilio candicliori Delicio , 
 
 Seraphidum foil fulgidijjimo , 
 
 CelftJJimo fa era fapientice tholo , 
 
 P rodigiorum patratori P otentifftmo , 
 
 Jllcrtis, Err oris, Calamitatis , Lepres , Dcemonis , 
 Difpenfatori , correct or i , liber atari, cur atari, fugatori 7 
 Sandto, fapienti , pio , potenii, tremendo, 
 dEgrotornm & Naufragantium Salvatori 
 Prafentifimo, tutiffimo, 
 
 Mcmbrorum rejlitutori, vinculorum confradtori,. 
 Rerum perditarum Inver tori jlupendo , 
 
 P ericulorum omnium projligatori 
 Magno , Mirabili , 
 
 Ter Sandto , 
 
 Antonio Paduano , 
 
 Pientijfimo pofl Deum ejufque Virgineam rnatrem 
 Protedlori id Sofpitatori fuo, &c. 
 
 C 3 
 
 The 
 
54 Brefcia , Verona , Padua. 
 
 The Cuflorn of hanging up Limbs in Wax, as 
 well . as Pictures, is certainly deriv’d from the old 
 Heathens, who ufed, upon their Recovery, to make 
 an Offering in Wood, Metal or Clay, of the Part 
 that had been affiiCted with a Diftemper, to the 
 Deity that delivered them. I have feen, I believe, 
 every Limb of a human Body figured in Iron or 
 Clay, which Were formerly made on this Occafion, 
 among the feveral Collections of Antiquities tfiat 
 have been (hewn me in Italy. The Church of St. 
 JuJlina , defign’d by Palladio , is the moft hand- 
 fom, luminous, difencumber’d Building in the In- 
 fide that I have ever feen, and is elleem’d by ma- 
 ny Artifis one of the fined Works in Italy. The 
 long Nef confifts of a Row of five Cupolas, the 
 crofs one has on each fide a fiingle Cupola deeper 
 and broader than the others. 1 he Martyrdom of 
 St. JuJlina hangs over the Altar, and is a Piece of 
 Paul Veronefe. In the great Town-Hall of Padua 
 Hands a Stone fuperfcrib’d Lapis Vituperii. Any 
 Debtor that will fwear himfelf not worth five 
 Pound, and is fct by the Bailiffs thrice with his bare 
 Buttocks on this Stone in a full Hall, clears himfelf 
 of any farther Profecution from his Creditors ; but 
 this is a Punilhment that no Body has fubmitted to 
 t’nefe four and twenty Years. The Univerfity of 
 Padua is of late much more regular than it was for- 
 merly, tho’ it is not yet fafe walking the Streets 
 after Sun-fet. There is at Padua a Manufacture 
 of Cloth, which has brought very great Revenues 
 into the Republick. At prefent the Englijh have 
 not only gained upon the V metians in the Levant , 
 which ufed chiefly to be fupplied from this Manu- 
 facture, but have great Quantities of their Cloth in 
 Venice it felfj few of the Nobility wearing any 
 
 other 
 
Brefcia , Verona , Padua. $$ 
 
 other fort, notwithftanding the Magiftrate of the 
 Pomps is obliged by his Office to fee that no Body 
 wears the Cloth of a Foreign Country. Our Mer- 
 chants indeed are forced to make uie of fome Ar- 
 tifice to get thefe Prohibited Goods into Port. W hat 
 they here fhow for the Afhes of Livy and Anterior is 
 difregarded by the bed of their own Antiquaries. 
 
 The pretended Tomb of Anterior put me in mind 
 of the latter part of Virgil’ s Defcription, which gives 
 us the Original of Padua . 
 
 Anterior poiuit mcdiis elap/us Achivis 
 Illyricos penetrare finite, atque intima tutus 
 Regna Liburnorum , & fontem fiuperare Timavt ; 
 Unde per ora novem vafito cum murmure mentis 
 It mare preer upturn, & pelago prenut arva fimanti ; 
 Hie tamen tile urban P atari, Jedefique locavit 
 Teucrorum, et genti nomen dedit , armaque fixit 
 Treia j nunc placidd compofius pace quieficit. iEn. i . 
 
 Anienor , from the midft of Grecian Hods, 
 
 Could pafs fecure ; and pierce th’ Illyrian Coads, 
 Where rolling down the deep Timavus raves. 
 
 And through nine Channels difembogues his W r aves* 
 At length he founded Padua's happy Seat, . 
 
 And gave his Trojans a fecure Retreat : 
 
 There fix’d their Arms, and there renew’d their 
 Names : 
 
 And there in quiet lies.- — — Dryden. 
 
 From Padua I went down to the River Brent in 
 the Ordinary Ferry, which brought me in a Day’s 
 time to Venice. 
 
 C 4 
 
 VENIC E, 
 
VENICE. 
 
 AVING often heard Venice rep re- 
 fen ted as one of the moil defenfible Ci- 
 ties in the World, I took Care to in- 
 form my felf of the Particulars in 
 which its Strength confifts. And tbe'e 
 I find are chiefly owing to its advan- 
 tageous Situation ; for it has neither Rocks nor For- 
 tifications near it, and yet is, perhaps, the moft im- 
 pregnable Town in Europe. It ftands at leaf!: four 
 Miles from any part of the Terra Flrma , nor are 
 the Shallows that lie about it ever frozen hard e- 
 nough to bring over an Army from the Land-fide; 
 the conftant Flux and Reflux of the Sea, or the na- 
 tural Mildnefs of the Climate, hindering the Ice 
 from gathering to any Thicknefs ; which is an Ad- 
 vantage the Hollanders want, when they have laid 
 all their Country under Water. On the Side that 
 is expofed to the Adriatic , the Entrance is fo diffi- 
 cult to hit, that they have marked it out with fe- 
 veral Stakes driven into the Ground, which they 
 vvould not fail to cut upon the fir ft approach of an 
 Enemy’s Fleet. For this Reafon they have not for- 
 tified the little Iflands, that lie at the Entrance, to 
 the beft Advantage, which might otherwife very 
 eafily command all the Pafles that lead to the City 
 from the Adriatic. Nor could an ordinary Fleet, 
 
 with 
 
VENICE. 57 
 
 with Bomb-Veflels, hope to fucceed againft.a Place 
 that has always in its Arfenal a confiderable Num- 
 ber of Gallies and Men of War ready to put to 
 Sea on a very fhort warning. If we could there- 
 fore fuppofe them block’d up on all lides, by a 
 Power too ftrong for them, both by Sea and Land, 
 they would be able to defend themfelves againlt e- 
 very thing but Famine; and this would not be a . 
 little mitigated by the great Quantities of Fitn that 
 their Seas abound with, and that may he taken up 
 in the midft of their very Streets, which is fuch 
 a natural Magazine as few other Places can boaiL 
 cF 
 
 Our Voyage-Writers will needs have this City in 
 great Danger” of being left, within an Age or two, 
 cn the T ?rra firma ; and reprefent it in fuch a man- 
 ner, as if the Sea was infenfibly Ihrinking from it, 
 and retiring into its Channel. I asked feveral, and 
 among the reft Father Coronelli, the State’s Geo. 
 grapher, of the T. ruth of this Particular, and they 
 all allur’d me that the Sea rifes as high as ever, 
 tho’ the great Heaps of Dirt it brings along with 
 it are apt^ to choke up the Shallows, but that they 
 are in no Danger of lofing the Benefit of their .si- 
 tuation, fo long as they are at the Charge of remo- 
 ving thefe Banks of Mud and Sand. One may fee 
 abundance of them above the Surface of the Wa- 
 ter, fcatter’d up and down like fo many litt le L ands, 
 when the Tide is low ; and they are thefe that 
 make the Entrance for Ships difficult to fuen as aie 
 not ufed to them, for the deep Canals run between 
 them, which the Venetians are at a great Expence 
 to keep free and open. 
 
 This City Hands very convenient for Commerce. 
 It has feveral navigable Rivers that run up into the 
 C 5 Body 
 
58 VENICE. 
 
 Body of Italy , by wliicii they might fupply a great 
 many Countries with Fifh and other Commodf- 
 ties ; not to mention their Opportunities for the 
 Levant , and each fide of the Adriatick . But notwith- 
 Handing thefe Conveniencies, their Trade is far 
 from being in a flourifhing Condition for many Rea- 
 ^ ns ‘ . ^he Duties are great that are laid on Mer- 
 chandifes. Their Nobles think it below their Qiia- 
 lity to engage in Traffick. Their Merchants who 
 are grown rich, and able to manage great Deal- 
 ings, buy their Nobility, and generally give over 
 i rade. Their Manufactures of Cloth, Glafs, and 
 Silk, formerly the belt in Europe , are now excell’d 
 by thofe of other Countries. They are tenacious 
 of old Laws and Cufloms to their great Prejudice, 
 whereas a Trading Nation muft be Hill for new 
 Changes and Expedients, as different Junctures and 
 Emergencies arife. 1 he State is at prefent very 
 fenfible of this Decay in their Trade, and as a 
 Noble Venetian , who is Hill a Merchant, told me, 
 they will fpeedily find out fome Method to redrefs 
 it ; pofiibly by making a free Port, for they look 
 with an evil Eye upon' Leghorne, which draws to 
 it rrioft of the Vefiels bound for Italy. They have 
 hitherto been fo negligent in this particular, that 
 many think the Great Duke’s Gold has had no 
 fmall Influence in their Councils. 
 
 Venice has feveral Particulars which are not to 
 be found in other Cities, and is therefore very en- 
 tertaining to a Traveller. It looks, at a diffance, 
 like a great Town half floated by a Deluge. There 
 are Canals every where eroding it, fo that one may 
 go to molt Houfes either by Land or Water. This 
 is a very great Convenience to the Inhabitants; 
 tor a Gondola with two Oars at Venice , is as mag- 
 nificent 
 
r E N I c E. 59 
 
 nificent as a Coach and fix Horfes, with a large Ei 
 quipage, in another Country ; befides that it makes 
 all other Carriages extremely cheap. The Streets 
 are generally paved with Brick or Freeftone, and 
 alwavs kept very neat, for there is no Carriage, 
 not fo much as a Chair, that paffes thro’ them. 
 There is an innumerable multitude of very hand- 
 fom Bridges, all of a Single Arch, and without 
 any Fence on either fide, which would be a gieat: 
 Inconvenience to a City lefs fober than V enice. One 
 would indeed wonder that Drinking is fo little jn 
 Vogue among the Venetians , who are in a nroift 
 Air^ and a moderate Climate, and have no fuch 
 Diverfions as Bowling, Hunting, Walking, Riding, 
 and the like Exercifes to employ them without 
 Doors. But as the Nobles are not to converfe too 
 much with Strangers, they are in no Danger of 
 learning it ; and they are generally too diftruihul 
 of one°another for the Freedoms that are uied in 
 fuch kind of Conventions. There are many nob.e 
 Palaces in Venice. Their Furniture is not com- 
 monly very rich, if we except the Pidlures, which 
 . are here in greater plenty than in any other Place_ 
 in Europe , from the Hands of the bell Mailers ©t 
 the Lo?nbard School ; as Titian , Paul l eronefe, 
 and Tintoret. The laft of thefe is in greater Efteem 
 at Venice than in other Parts of Italy. The Rooms 
 are generally hung with Gilt Leather, which they 
 cover on extraordinary Occafions with 1 apeilry, 
 and Hangings of greater Value. The Flooring is 
 a kind of Red Plaifter made of Brick ground to 
 Powder, and afterwards work’d into Mortar. It is 
 nibbed with Oil, and makes a Smooth, fhining, ana 
 beautiful Surface. Thefe Particularities are chiefly 
 owing to the MoiiWe of the Air, which would 
 0 have 
 
60 VENICE. 
 
 have an ill Effect on other kinds of Furniture, as 
 it fhows it felf too vifibly in many of their Snell 
 Pictures. Tho’ the V eisetians are extremely jea- 
 lous of any great Fame or Merit in a living Mem- 
 ber of their Commonwealth, they never fail of 
 giving a Man his due Praifes, when they are in 
 no Danger of buffering from his Ambition. For 
 this-Reafon, tho” there are a great many Monu- 
 ments erecRed to fuch as have been Benefactors to 
 the Republick, they are generally put up after rheir 
 Deaths. Among the many Elogiums that are given 
 to the Doge, P'ifauro , who had been Ambafiador 
 in England, hra Epitaph fays. In Anglia Jacobi Re- 
 gis obitum mird c alii dit ate celatum mird fagacitaie 
 rimatus prifcam benevdentiam firmavit. The par- 
 ticular Palaces, Churches, and Pi&ures of Venice, 
 are enumerated in feveral little Rooks that may be 
 bought on the Place, and have been faithfully 
 tranfcribed by many Voyage- Writers. Whan I 
 
 was at Venice , they were putting out very curious 
 Stamps of the feveral Edifices which are moil fa- 
 mous for their Beauty or Magnificence. The Ar- 
 Jenal of Venice is an Bland of about three Miles 
 round. It contains all the Stores and Provifions for 
 War, that are not actually employed. There are 
 Dgc1<s% their Gallies and Men of War, molt of 
 them full, as well as Work-houfes for all Land 
 and Naval Preparations. That Part of it, where 
 the Arms are laid, makes a great fl-ow, and was 
 indeed very extraordinary about a hundred Years 
 ago, but at prefent a great part of its Furniture is 
 grown trfelefs. There feem to be almoft as many 
 Suits of Armour as there are Guns. The Swords 
 are c}d-fafhion’d and unwieldy in a very great Num- 
 ber, and the Fire-Arms fitted with Locks of little 
 
 Con- 
 
VENICE. 6t 
 
 Convenience in comparifon of thofe that are now 
 in ufe. The Venetians pretend they could fet out, 
 in cafe of great Neceflity, thirty Men of War, a 
 hundred Gallies, and ten Galeaffes, tho’ I cannot 
 conceive how they could man a Fleet of half the 
 number. It was certainly a mighty Error in this 
 State to affedh fo many Conquefts on the Terra 
 Firma , which has only ferved to raife the Jealoufy 
 of the Chriftian Princes, and about three hundred 
 Years ago had like to have ended in the utter Extir- 
 pation of the Commonwealth ; whereas, had they 
 apply’d themfelves with the fame Politicks and In- 
 dufiry to the Increafe of their Strength by Sea, they 
 might perhaps have had all the Ifiands of the Ar- 
 chipelago in their Hands, and, by Conference, the 
 greateft Fleet, and the mold Seamen of any other 
 State in Europe. Befdes, that this would have given 
 no Jealoufy to the Princes their Neighbours, who 
 would have enjoy’d their own Dominions in Peace, 
 and have been very well contented to have feen fo 
 ftrong a Bulwark againfd all the Forces and In- 
 vafions of the Ottoman Empire. 
 
 This Republick has been much more powerful 
 than it is at prefent, as it is Fill likelier to fink 
 than increafe in its Dominions. It is not impof- 
 fible but the Spaniard may, fome time or other, 
 demand of them Creme , Brefcia , and Bergame , 
 which have been torn from the Milanefe ; and in 
 cafe a War fhould arife upon it, and the Venetians 
 lofe a fingle Battle, they might be beaten off the 
 Continent in a fingle Summer, for their Fortifica- 
 tions are very inconfiderable. On the other fide 
 the Venetians are in continual Apprehenfions from 
 the Turk , who will certainly endeavour at the Re- 
 covery of the Morea , as foon as the Ottoman Em- 
 pire 
 
62 VENICE. 
 
 pire has recruited a little of its ancient Strength. 
 They are very fenfible that they had better have 
 pufhed their Conquefts on the other fide of the A- 
 driatick into Albania , for then their Territories 
 would have lain together, and have been nearer the 
 Fountain-head to have received Succours on occa- 
 fion but the V enetians are under Articles with the 
 Emperor, to refign into hh Hands whatever they 
 conquer of the Turkijh Dominions, that has been 
 formerly difmembered from the Empire. And ha- 
 ving already very much dillatisfy’d him in the Frioul 
 and Dalmatia , they dare not think of exafperating 
 him further. The Pope difputes with them their 
 Pretenfions to the P olefin , as the Duke of Savoy 
 lays an equal Claim to the Kingdom of Cyprus. 
 ’Tis furprifing to confider with what Heats thefe 
 two Powers have contefted their Title to a King- 
 dom that is in the Hands of the Turk. 
 
 Among all thefe Difficulties the Republick will 
 ftill maintain it felf, if Policy can prevail upon 
 Force ; for it is certain the Venetian Senate is one 
 of the wifeft Councils in the World, tho’ at the 
 fame time, if we believe the Reports of feveral 
 that have been well verfed in their Conftitution, a 
 great part of their Politics is founded on Maxims 
 which otheis do not think confident with their 
 Honour to put in pra£tice. The Prefervation of 
 the Republick is that to which all other Confide- 
 rations fubmit. To encourage Idlenefs and Luxu- 
 ry in the Nobility, to cherifh Ignorance and Licen- 
 tioufnefs in the Clergy, to keep alive a continual 
 Fa&ion in the Common People, to connive at the 
 Vicioufnefs and Debauchery of Convents, to breed 
 Diflenfions among the Nobles of the Terra Firma , 
 to treat a brave Man with Scorn and Infamy : In 
 
 Ihortj 
 
VENICE. 63 
 
 fhort, to flick at nothing for the Publick Intereft, 
 are reprefented as the refined Parts of the Venetian 
 Wifdom. ^ 
 
 Among all the Inflances of their Politics, there 
 is none more admirable than the great Secrecy that 
 reigns in their public Councils. The Senate is ge- 
 nerally as numerous as our Houfe of Commons, 
 if we only reckon the fitting Members, and yet 
 carries its Refolutions fo privately, that they are fel- 
 dom known ’till theydifcover themfelves in the Exe- 
 cution. It is net many Years fince they had be- 
 fore them a great Debate concerning the Punifn- 
 ment of one of their Admirals, which lafted a 
 Month together, and concluded in his Condemna- 
 tion; yet was there none of his Friends, nor of 
 thofe who had engaged warmly in his Defence, that 
 gave him the leaf! Intimation of what was paffing 
 againft him, ’till Ihe was actually feiz’d, and in the 
 Hands of Juftice. 
 
 The Noble Venetians think themfelves equal at 
 leaft to the Eledtors of the Empire, and but one De- 
 gree below Kings ; for which reafon they feldom 
 travel into Foreign Countries, where they muft un- 
 dergo the Mortification of being treated like private 
 Gentlemen : Yet it is obferv’d of them, that they 
 difeharge themfelves with a great deal of Dexterity 
 in fuch Embaflles and Treaties as are laid on them 
 by the Republick ; for their whole Lives are em- 
 ployed in Intrigues of State, and they naturally 
 give themfelves Airs of Kings and Princes, of which 
 the Minifters of other Nations are only the R.epre- 
 fentatives. Monfieur dmelot reckons, in his time, 
 two thoufand five hundred Nobles that had Voices 
 in the great Council, but at prefent, I am told, 
 there are not at mo,!}: fifteen Hundred, notwith- 
 
 ftanding 
 
64 VENICE. 
 
 {landing the Addition of many new Families finee 
 that time. It is very flrange, that with this Ad- 
 vantage they are not able to keep up their Num- 
 ber, confidering that the Nobility fpreads equally 
 thro’ all the Brothers, and that fo very few of them 
 are deftroyed by the Wars of the Republic!?. Whe- 
 ther this may be imputed to the Luxury of the 
 Venetians , or to the ordinary Celibacy of the youn- 
 ger Brothers, or to the laft Plague which fwept 
 away many of them, 1 know not. They gene- 
 rally thru ft the Females of their Families into Con- 
 vents, the better to preferve their Eftates. This 
 makes the Venetian Nuns famous for the Liberties 
 they allow themfelves. They have Operas within 
 their own Walls, and often go out of their Bounds 
 to meet their Admirers, or they are very much 
 mifreprefented. They have many of them their 
 Lovers, that converfe with them daily at the Grate, 
 and are very free to admit: a viiit from a Stranger. 
 There is indeed one of the Camara's, that not long 
 ago refus’d to fee any under a Prince. 
 
 The Carnival of Venice is every where talk’d of. 
 The great Diverficn of the Place at that time, as 
 well as on all other high Occafions, is Masking. 
 The Venetians, who are naturally Grave, love to 
 give into the Folhes and Entertainments of fueh 
 Scafons, when difguifed in a falfe Perfonage. They 
 are indeed under a neceffity of finding out Diver- 
 fions that may agree with the Nature of the Place, 
 and make feme Amends for the Lois of feveral 
 Pleafures which may be met with on the Conti- 
 nent. Thefe Difguifqs give Occafion to abundance 
 of Love-Adventures ; for there is fomething more 
 intriguing in the Amours of Venice , than in thofe 
 of other Countries, and I queftion not but the Se- 
 cret 
 
VENICE. 65 
 
 cret Hiflrory of a Carnival would make a Collec- 
 tion of very diverting Novels. Operas are another 
 great Entertainment of this Seafon. The Poetry of 
 them is generally as exquifitely ill, as the Mufick is 
 good. The Arguments are often taken from fome 
 celebrated Adtion of the ancient Greeks or Romans , 
 which fometimes looks ridiculous enough ; for who 
 can endure to hear one of the rough old Romans 
 fqueaking thro’ the Mouth of an Eunuch, efpecially 
 when they may choofe a Subject cut of Courts where 
 Eunuchs are really Adtors, or reprefent by them 
 any of the foft AJiatick IVlonarchs ? The Opera that 
 was moft in Vogue, during my Stay at V enice , was 
 built on the following Subjedt. Co; far and Scipio are 
 Rivals for Cato’s Daughter. Catfar’s firft Words 
 bid his Soldiers fly, for the Enemies are upon them. 
 Si leva Cefare , e dice a Soldati y A’ la fugga , A ’ 
 lo fcampo. The Daughter gives the Preference to 
 Ccefar, which is made the Occaflonof Cato’s Death. 
 Before he kills himfelf, you fee him withdrawn into 
 his Library, where, among his Books, I obferved. 
 the Titles of Plutarch and Tajfo. After a fhort So- 
 liloquy he ftrikes himfelf with the Dagger that he 
 holds in his Hand, but, being interrupted by one of 
 his Friends, he Arabs him for his Pains, and by the 
 Violence of the Blow unluckily breaks the Dagger 
 on one of his Ribs, fo that he is forced to difpatch 
 himfelf by tearing up his firft Wound. T his laft 
 Circumftance puts me in mind ot a Contrivance in 
 the Opera of St. Angelo , that was adted at the fame 
 time. The King of the Play endeavours at a Rape, 
 but the Poet being refolved to fave his Heroine’s 
 Honour, has fo ordered it, that the King always 
 adts with a great Cafe-Knife Ituck in his Girdle, 
 
 which 
 
66 VENICE. 
 
 the Lady (hatches from him in the Struggle, and 
 fo defends her felf. 65 
 
 The Italian Poets, befides the celebrated Smooth- 
 nefs of their Tongue, have a particular Advantage, 
 above the Writers of other Nations, in the diffe- 
 rence of their Poetical and Profe Language, There 
 are indeed Sets of Phrafes that in all Countries are 
 peculiar to the Poets, but among the Italians there 
 are not only Sentences, but a Multitude of particu- 
 lar Words that never enter into common Difcourfe. 
 T. hey have fuch a different T urn and Polifhino- for 
 Poetical Ufe, that they drcp feveral of their ^Let- 
 ters, and appear in another form, when they come 
 to be ranged in Verfe. For this Reafon the Italian 
 Opera feldom finks into a Poornefs of Language, 
 but, amidft all the Meannefs and Familiarity of tne 
 Thoughts, has fomething beautiful and fonorous in 
 the Expreffion. Without this natural Advantage of 
 the Tongue, their prefent Poetry would appear 
 wretchedly low and vulgar, not with (landing thema* 
 ny (trained Allegories that are fo much in ufe among 
 the Writers of this Nation. The Englijh and French, 
 who always ufe the fame Words in Verfe as in or- 
 dinary Converfation, are forced to raife their Lan- 
 guage with Metaphors and Figures, or, by the 
 Pompoufnefs of the whole Phrafe, to wear off any 
 Littlenefs that appears in the particular Parts that 
 comp fo it. This makes our Blank Verfe, where 
 there is no Rhyme to fupport the Expreffion, ex- 
 tremely difficult to fuch as are not Matters in the 
 Tongue, efpecially when they write on low Sub- 
 jects ; and ’tis probably for this reafon that Milton 
 has made ufe of fuch frequent Tranfpofitions, Lati- 
 nifrns, antiquated Words and Phrafes, that he 
 
 might 
 
VENICE. 67 
 
 might the better deviate from vulgar and ordinary 
 Expreffions. 
 
 The Comedies that I faw at Venice , or indeed 
 in any other Part of Italy , are very indifferent, and 
 more lewd than thofe of other Countries. Their 
 Poets have no Notion of gentile Comedy, and fall 
 into the mod filthy Double Meanings imaginable, 
 when they have a mind to make their Audience 
 merry. There is no Part generally fo wretched as 
 that of the Fine Gentleman, efpecially when he con- 
 verfes with his Miflrefs ; for then the whole Dia- 
 logue is an infipid mixture of Pedantry and Ro- 
 mance. But ’tis no wonder that the Poets of fo jea- 
 lous and referved a Nation fail in fuch Conven- 
 tions on the Stage, as they have no Patterns of in 
 Nature. There are four {landing Charadlers which 
 enter into every Piece that comes on the Stage, 
 the Dottor, Harlequin , Pant alone, and Coviello. 
 The Doctor's Character comprehends the whole 
 Extent of a Pedant, that with a deep Voice, and 
 a Magiflerial Air breaks in upon Converfation, and 
 drives down all before him : Every thing he fays is 
 backed with Quotations out of Galen , Hippocrates , 
 Plato , Virgil , or any Author that rifes uppermoff, 
 and all Anfwers from his Companions are looked 
 upon as Impertinencies or Interruptions. Harlequin’s 
 Part is made up of Blunders and Abfurdities : He is 
 to miftake one Name for another, to forget his Er- 
 rands, to ffumble over Queens, and to run his Head 
 againft every Poll that {lands in his way. This is all 
 attended with fomething fo comical in the Voice 
 and Geftures, that a Man, who is fenfible of the 
 Folly of the Part, can hardly forbear being pleafed 
 with it. Pantalone is generally an old Cully, and 
 Coviello a Sharper. 
 
 I 
 
68 VENICE. 
 
 I have feen a Tranflation of the Cid acted at Ba- 
 hma^ which would never have taken, had they not 
 found a Place in it for thefe Buffoons. All four of 
 them appear in Masks that are made like the old 
 Roman Perfonas, as I {hall have occafion to obferve 
 m another Place. The French and Italians have 
 probably derived this Cuftom of {hewing fome of 
 their Characters in Masks, from the Greek and Ro- 
 man Theatre. The old Vatican Terence has at the 
 Head of every Scene, the Figures of all the Perfons 
 that are concerned in it, with the particular Dif- 
 guifes in which they acted ; and I remember to have 
 feen in the Villa Mattheio an antique Statue mask’d, 
 which was perhaps defign’d for Gnatho in the Eu- 
 nuch, for it agrees exactly with the Figure he makes' 
 in the V atican Manufcript. One would wonder in- 
 deed how fo Polite a People as the ancient Romans 
 and Athenians , {hould not look on thefe borrowed 
 Faces as unnatural. They might do very well for 
 a Cyclops, or a Satyr that can have no Refem- 
 blance in Humane Features;- but for a Flatterer, a 
 Mifer, or the like Characters, which abound in our 
 own Species, nothing is more ridiculous than to re- 
 prefent their Looks by a painted Vizard. In Per- 
 fbns of this Nature the Turns and Motions of the 
 Face are often as agreeable as any part of the Action. 
 Could we fuppofe that a Mask reprefented never 
 fo naturally the general Humour of a Character, 
 it can never fuit with the Variety of Paffions that 
 are incident to every fmgle Perfon in the whole 
 Courfe ot a Play. The Grimace may be proper 
 on fome Occafions, but is too fteady to agree with 
 all. I he Rabble indeed are generally pleafed at the 
 hrft Entry of a Difguife, but the Jet grows cold 
 
 even 
 
VENICE. 69 
 
 I even with them too when it comes on the Stage 
 | in a Second Scene. 
 
 Since I am^ on this Subje&, I cannot forbear 
 mentioning a Cuftom at Venice , which they tell me 
 is particular to the Common People of this Coun- 
 try, of finging Stanza’s out of TaJJ'o. They are 
 fet to a pretty Solemn Tune, and when one be- 
 gins in any part of the Poet, it is odds but he will 
 be anfwered by fome Body elfe that overhears him : 
 So that fometimes you have Ten or a Dozen in 
 the Neighbourhood of one another, taking Verfe 
 alter Verle, and running on with the Poem as far 
 as their Memories will carry them. 
 
 On Hoi y-TburJday, among the feveral Shows 
 that are yearly exhibited, I law one that is odd 
 enough, and particular to the Venetians. There is 
 a Set of Artifans, who by the help of feveral Poles, 
 which they lay a-crofs each others Shoulders, build 
 themfelves up into a kind of Pyramid ; fo that you 
 fee a Pile of Men in the Air of four or five Rows 
 rifing one above another. The Weight is fo e- 
 qually diftributed, that every Man is very well able 
 to bear his Part of it, the Stories, if I may fo call 
 them, growing lefs and lefs as they advance higher 
 ami higher. A little Boy reprefents the Point of 
 the Pyramid, who, after a fhort Space, leaps off, 
 with a great deal of Dexterity, into the Arms of 
 one that catches him at the Bottom. In the fame 
 manner the whole Building falls to pieces. I have 
 been the more particular on this, becaufe it explains 
 the following Verfes of Claudian , v/hich fhow that 
 the Venetians are not the Inventors of this Trick. 
 
 Vel qui more avium fefe jaculantur in auras , 
 
 Corpora que cedificant , celeri crejceniia nexu , 
 
 Quorum 
 
jo VENICE. 
 
 Quorum compofitam puer augmentatus in arcem 
 Emicat , et vindtus plant a, vel cruribus hesrens , 
 Pendula librato figit vejligia faltu. 
 
 Claud.de Pr. Sc Olyb. Conf. 
 
 Men, pil’d on Men, with adlive Leaps arife, 
 
 And build the breathing Fabrick to the Skies; 
 
 A fprightly Youth above the topmoft Row 
 Points the tall Pyramid, and crowns the Show. 
 
 Tho’ we meet with the Veneti in the old Poets, 
 the City of Venice is too modern to find a Place 
 among them. Sannazarius’s Epigram is too well 
 known to be inferted. The fame Poet has cele- 
 brated this City in two other Places of his Poems. 
 
 £hiis Veneta miracula prefer at urbis , 
 
 Una injlar magni qua funul Orbis habet f 
 Salve Italum Regina , alt a pulcherrima Romes 
 Mmula , qua terris , qua dominaris aquis ! 
 
 Tu tibi vel Reges elves facis , O Decus , O Lux 
 Aufonia , per quam libera turba fumus , 
 
 Per quam Barbaries nobis non imperat , et Sol 
 Exoriens nojlro clarius orbe nitet ! 
 
 L. 3. El. 1. 
 
 Venetia (lands with endlefs Beauties crown’d. 
 
 And as a World within her felf is found. 
 
 Hail Queen of Italy! for Years to come 
 The mighty Rival of immortal Rome ! 
 
 Nations and Seas are in thy States enroll’d, 
 
 And Kings among thy Citizens' are told. 
 Aufonia’s brighteft Ornament ! by Thee 
 She fits a Sov’reign, Unenflav’d and Free; 
 
 By 
 
VENICE. 7 r 
 
 B_v Thee, the rude Barbarian chas’d away, 3 
 "1 he Rifing Sun chears with a purer Ray L 
 
 Our Weftern World, and doubly gilds the Day. j 
 
 Nee Tu femper eris , qua feptem amplest erls arces , 
 Ne c < Tu, qua mediis amula furgis aquis. 
 
 L.2.EI.1. 
 
 Thou too {halt fall by Time or barb’rous Foes, 
 Whofe circling Walls the Sev’n fam’d Hills inclofe ; 
 And Thou, whofe Rival Tow’rs invade the Skies, 
 And, from amidft the Waves, with equal Glory rife. 
 
 F E R. 
 
F E R R A R A 
 
 RAVE N N Ay 
 
 RIMINI. 
 
 the Po , by which it empties it felf into the 
 Adriatic , 
 
 S$uo non alius per pinguia cult a 
 
 ■which is true, if underftood only of the Rivers of 
 Italy. 
 
 Lucan’s Defcription of the Po would have been 
 very beautiful, had he known when to have given 
 over. 
 
 Epuoque magis nullum tellus fe folvit in amnem 
 Eridanus , fraSlafque evolvit in cequora fylvas , 
 Hefperiamque exbaurit aquis : hunc fabula primutn 
 Populed Jluvium ripas umbrdjje corona : 
 
 C umque diem pronum tranfverfo limite ducens 
 Succendit Phaeton flagrantibus athera lords ; 
 
 |SpT Venice I took a Bark for Ferrara , and 
 in my way thither faw feveral Mouths of 
 
 In mare purpureum violentior irifluit amnis. 
 
 Virg. G. 4. 
 
 Gurgitibus 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 73 
 
 Gurgitibus raptis , pennies tellure per lift'd. 
 
 Hunt habuiffe pares Pbcebeis ignibus undas. L. 2. 
 
 The that rufhing with uncommon Force, 
 O’er-fets whole Woods in its tumultuous Courfe, 
 And rifing from Hefperia ’ s watry Veins, 
 
 Th exhaufted Land of all its JVToifture drains. 
 
 The Po, as lings the Fable, firft convey’d 
 Its wond’ring Current through a Poplar Shade: 
 lor when young Phaeton miftook his way. 
 
 Loft and confounded in the Blaze of Day, 
 
 'I his River, with furviving Streams fupply’d, 
 
 When all the reft of the whole Earth were dry’d. 
 And Nature’s felf lay ready to expire, 
 
 Quench’d the dire Flame that fet the World on Fire. 
 
 The Poet’s Reflexions follow. 
 
 Non minor hie Hilo , ft non per plana jacentis 
 Pi gyp 1 2 Libycas Nilas ftagnaret arenas . 
 
 Non minor hie Iftro , nifi quod dum per me at orbem 
 
 Ifter, cafuros in qualibet esquora fontes 
 
 Accipit , & Scythicas exit non folus in undas. Id, 
 
 Nor would the Nile more watry Stores contain. 
 But that he ftagnates on his Libyan Plain : 
 
 Nor would the Danube run with treater Force 
 But that he gathers in his tedious Courfe 
 Ten thoufand Streams, and fwelling as he flows 
 In Scythian Seas the Glut of Rivers throws. 
 
 h hat is, fays Scaliger , the Eridanus would be 
 bigger than the Nile and Danube , if the Nile and 
 Danube were not bigger than the Eridanus. What 
 ^ makes 
 
74 Ferrara , Ravenna, Rimini . 
 
 makes the Poet’s Remark the more improper, the 
 very Reafon why the Danube is greater than the 
 Poi, as he affigns it, is that which really makes the 
 Po as great as it is ; for before its Fall into the | 
 Gulf, it receives into its Channel the mod confi- 
 derable Rivers of Piemont , Milan , and the reft of 
 
 Lombardy. . 
 
 From P mice to Ancona the Tide comes in very 
 fenftbly at its dated Periods, but rifes more or lefs 
 in proportion as it advances nearer the Plead of the 
 Gulf. Lucan has run out of his way to defcribe 
 the Phenomenon, which is indeed very extraordi- 
 nar to thofe who lie out of the Neighbourhood of the 
 great Ocean, and, according to his ufual Cuftom, 
 lets his Poem (land ft ill that he may. give way to 
 his own Reflexions. 
 
 Dudque jacet littus dubium , quod terra fretumque 
 pen dicat alternis vicibus , cum Junditur ingens 
 Oceanus , vel cum refugis fe fluStibus aufert. 
 
 Pentus ab extremo pelagus jtc axe volutet 
 Dejlituatque ferens : an fidere mot a fecundo 
 Tethyos unda vagce Lunaribus ejluet horis . 
 
 Flamrniger an Titan , ut alentes hauriat undas , 
 
 Erigat ' Oceanian , fluttufque adftdera tollat , 
 
 Duarite quos agitat mundi labor : at mihi femper 
 Pu qiuscunque moves tam crebros caufa meatus , 
 
 XJtfuperi valuer e , latest Lib. i. 
 
 Wafh’d with fucceffive Seas, the doubtful Strand 
 By turns is Ocean, and by turns is Land . 
 
 Whether the Winds in diftant Regions blow. 
 
 Moving the World of Waters to and fro; 
 
 Q r warning Moons their fettled Periods keep 
 Tq fwell the Billows, and ferment the Deep; 
 
 m 
 
 Or 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 
 
 Or the tir’d Sun, his Vigour to fupply, 
 
 Railes the floating Mountains to the Sky, 
 
 And flakes his Thirft within the mighty Tide, 
 
 Do you who ftudy Nature’s Works decide : 
 
 Whilft I the dark myfterioiis Caufe admire, 
 
 Nor, into what the Gods conceal, prefumptuoufly 
 inquire. 
 
 At Ferrara I met nothing extraordinary. The 
 Town is very large, but extremely thin of People. 
 It has a Citadel, and fomething like a Fortification 
 running round it, but fo large that it requires more 
 Soldiers to defend it, than the Pope has in his whole 
 Dominions. The Streets are as beautiful as any I 
 have feen, in their Length, Breadth and Regulari- 
 ty. The Benedi nines have the fineft Convent of 
 the Place. They fhow’d us in the Church Ariojio’ s 
 Monument : His Epitaph fays, he was Nobilitate 
 Generis atque Animi darns, in rebus publids admi- 
 nijirandis , in regendis populis , in gravijjimis & fum- 
 rnis Pontificis legationibus prudentid , confilio , eloquen- 
 tid preeJlantiJJijnus. 
 
 I came down a Branch of the Po , as far as Alber- 
 to, within ten Miles of Ravenna . All this Space 
 lies miferably uncultivated ’till you come near Ra- 
 venna, where the Soil is made extremely fruitful, and 
 Blows what much of the reft might be, were there 
 Hands enough to manage it to the beft Advantage. 
 It is now on both fides the Road very marfhy, and* 
 generally overgrown with Rufhes, which made me 
 fanfy it was once floated by the Sea, that lies with- 
 in four Miles of it. ' Nor could I in the leaft doubt 
 it when I law Ravenna, that is now almoft at the 
 fame diftance from the Adriatick , tho’ it was for- 
 merly the moft famous of all the Roma?i Ports. 
 
 jD 2 One 
 
yfi Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 
 
 One may guefs at its ancient Situation from 
 Martial ’ s 
 
 MelitHfque Ran a: garriant Ravenhates. L. 3. 
 
 Ravenna’s Frogs in better Mufick croke. 
 
 And the Defcription that Italicus has given us 
 of it. 
 
 ghiaquc gravi remo limojis fegniter undis 
 
 Lenta paludofte perfcindunt Jlagna Ravenna. L. 8. 
 
 Encumber’d in the Mud, their Oars divide 
 With heavy Strokes the thick unwieldy Tide. 
 
 Accordingly the old Geographers reprefent it as 
 fituated among Marfhes and Shallows. The Place 
 which is fhown for the Haven, is on a Level with 
 the Town, and has probably been flopped up by 
 the great Heaps of Dirt that the Sea has thrown 
 intott ; for all the Soil on that fide of Ravenna has 
 been left there infenfibly by the Sea’s difcharging it 
 felf upon it for many Ages. The Ground mull 
 have been formerly much lower, for otherwife the 
 Town would have lain under Water. The Re- 
 mains of the Pharos , that ftand about three Miles 
 from the Sea, and two from the Town, have their 
 Foundations covered with Earth for fome Yards, 
 as they told me, which notwithftanding are up- 
 en a Level with the Fields that lie about them, 
 tho’ ’tis probable they took the Advantage of a ri- 
 fing Ground to fet it upon. It was a fquare Tower, 
 of "about twelve Yards in Breadth, as appears by 
 that part of it which yet remains entire, fo that 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 77 
 
 its Height mull have been very confiderable to have 
 preferved a Proportion. It is made in the Form of 
 the Venetian Campanello, and is probably the high 
 1 ower mentioned by Pliny , 36. cap. 12. 
 
 On the fide of the I own, where the Sea is fup- 
 poied to have lain formerly, there is now a little 
 Church called the Rotonda. At the Entrance of 
 “ t ^° Atones, the one with an Infcription in 
 
 (j ethic Characters, that has nothing in it remark- 
 ab.e ; the other is a fquare Piece of Marble, that 
 by the Infcription appears ancient, and by the Or- 
 naments about it fhows it felf to have been a little 
 Pagan ^Monument of two Perfons who were {hip- 
 wreck d, perhaps in the Place where now their Mo- 
 nument ftands. The firft Line and a half, that 
 tells their Names and Families in Profe, is not le- 
 gible the reft run thus. 
 
 Panics domus hos produxit alurancs , 
 
 Libcrtatis opus contulit una dies. 
 
 Naufraga mors pariter rapmt quos junxerat anti , 
 tt duplices ludtus mors periniqua dedit. 
 
 Both with the fame indulgent Mailer blefs’d, 
 
 Un the iame Day their Liberty poflefs’d : 
 
 A Shipwreck flew whom it had join'd before. 
 
 And left their common Friends their Fun’rals to 
 deplore. 
 
 There is a turn in the third Verfe that we lofe, 
 by not knowing the Circumftances of their Sto- 
 ry. It was the Naufraga mors which deftroyed 
 them, as it had formerly united them ; what this, 
 Lmon was is exprefs’d in the preceding Verfe, by 
 
 D 3 their 
 
7 8 Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 
 
 by their both having been made Free-men on the 
 fame Day. If’ therefore we fuppofe they had been 
 formerly fhip-wreck’d with their Mailer, and that 
 he made them Free at the fame time, the Epi- 
 gram is unriddled. Nor is this Interpretation per- 
 haps fo forc’d as it may feem at fir ft fight, fince 
 it was the Cuftom of the Mailers, a little before 
 their Death, to give their Slaves their Freedom, it 
 they had deferv’d it at their Hands ; and it is na- 
 tural enough to fuppofe one, involved in a com- 
 mon Shipwreck, would give fuch of his Slaves their 
 Liberty, as fhould have the good Luck to fave them- 
 felves. The Chancel of this Church is vaulted with 
 a fingle Stone of four Foot in thicknefs, and a 
 hundred and fourteen in Circumference. I heie 
 Food on the outfide of this little Cupola, a great 
 Tomb of Porphyry , and the Statues of the twelve 
 Aycltles; but in the War that Lorn the Twelfth 
 made on Italy, the Tomb was broken in pieces by 
 a Cannon Ball. It was, perhaps, the fame Blow 
 that made the Flaw in the Cupola, tho the In- 
 habitants fay it was crack’d by Thunder, that de- 
 ftroyed a Son of one of their Gothic Princes, who 
 had taken Shelter under it, as having been foretold 
 what kind of Death he was to die. I asked an 
 Abbot, that was in the Church, what was the Name 
 of this Gothic Prince, who, after a little Recol- 
 lection, anfwered me, that he could not. tell pre- 
 cifely, but that he thought it was one Julius La- 
 far There is a Convent of Tinatins, where they 
 lhow a little Window in the Church, thro which 
 the Holy Ghoft is faid to have entered in the Shape 
 of a Dove, and to have fettled on one of the Can- 
 didates for the Bifhoprick. The Dove is repre- 
 fented in the Window, and in feveral Places ot 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 79 
 
 the Church, and is in great Reputation all over 
 Italy. I fhould not indeed think it importable for 
 a Pigeon to fly in accidentally thro’ the Roof, where 
 they full keep the Hole open, and by its fluttering 
 over fuch a particular Place, to give fo fuperftitiou. 
 an Aflembly an occafion of favouring a Competi- 
 tor, efpeciaily if he had many Friends among the 
 Electors that would make a politick Ufe’of fuch 
 an Accident: But they pretend the Miracle has 
 happen’d more than once. Among the Pidfures 
 of feveral famous Men of their Order, there is one 
 with this Infcription. P. D. ' Thomas Gouldvellus 
 Ep. Ap s Tridf 0 confilio contra Hcsreticos , iff in An- 
 glia contra Elifabet. Fidei ConfefJ'or confpicuus. The 
 Statue of Alexander the Seventh hands in the large 
 Square of the Town ; it is cart in Brafs, and lias 
 the Pofture that is always given the Figure of a 
 Pope; an Arm extended, and blerting the People. 
 In another Square on a high Pillar is fet the Sta- 
 tue of the blerted Virgin, arrayed like a Queen, 
 with a Sceptre in her Hand, and a Crown upon 
 her Head '; for having deliver’d the Town from a 
 raging Peftilence. The Cuftom of crowning the 
 Holy Virgin is fo much in vogue among the Ita- 
 lians, that one often fees in their Churches a little 
 Tinfel Crown, or perhaps a Circle of Stars glued 
 to the Canvafe over the Head of the Figure, which 
 fometimes fpoils a good Pitrture. In the Convent 
 of Benedictines , I faw three huge Cherts of Marble, 
 with no Infcription on them that I could find, 
 tho’ they are faid to contain the Arties of Valen- 
 tinian , Honorius , and his Sirter Placidia. From 
 Ravenna I came to Rimini , having parted the 
 Rubicon by the way. This River is not fo very 
 contemptible as it is generally reprefented, and was 
 
 D 4 much 
 
go Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini . 
 
 much increafed by the melting of the Snows when 
 Ccefar palled it, according to Lucan. 
 
 Fonte cadlt medico parvifque impellitur undis 
 Puniceus Rubicon , cum fervida canduit often ; 
 
 Pcrque imas ferpit valles , id Gallica certus 
 Limes ab Auftniis difterminat arva colonis : 
 
 Tunc vires prabebat hyems , atque auxerat undas 
 Tertia jam gravida pi avia Us Cynthia cornu , 
 
 Et madidis Euri refoluta ftatibus Alpes. L. I. 
 
 While Summer lalls, the Streams of Rubicon 
 From their fpent Source in a fmall Current run, 
 
 Hid in the winding Vales they gently glide, 
 
 And Italy from neighb’ring Gaul divide ; 
 
 But now, with Winter Storms increas’d they rofe. 
 By wat’ry Moons produc’d, and Alpine Snows, 
 
 That melting on the hoary Mountains lay. 
 
 And in warm Eaftern Winds diflolv’d away. 
 
 This River is now called Pifatello. 
 
 Rimini has nothing modern to boaft of. Its An- 
 tiquities are as follow : A Marble Bridge of five 
 Arches, built by Auguftus and Tiberius , for the In- 
 feription- is Hill legible, tho’ not rightly tranferib’d 
 by Gruter. A triumphal Arch raifed by Auguftus , 
 which makes a noble Gate to the "I own, tho’ part 
 of it is ruined. The Ruins of an Amphitheatre. 
 The Suggeftum , on which it is faid that ftfulius 
 Cofar harangued his Army after having palled the 
 Rubicon. I mull confefs I can by no means look 
 on this laft as Authentick : It is built of hewn 
 Stone, like the Pedeftal of a Pillar, but fomething 
 higher than ordinary, and is but juft broad enough 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 81 
 
 for one Man to Hand upon it. On the contrary, 
 the ancient Suggejlums , as I have often obferved 
 on Medals, as well as on Constantine ' s Arch, were 
 made of Wood like a little kind of Stage, for the 
 Heads of the Nails are fcmetimes reprefented, that 
 are fuppofed to have faflened the Boards together. 
 We often fee on them the Emperor, and two or 
 three General Officers, fcmetimes fitting, and fome- 
 times Handing, as they made Speeches, or diftri- 
 buted a Congiary to the Soldiers or People. They 
 were probably always in readinefs, and carried a- 
 mong the Baggage of the Army, whereas this at 
 Rimini mull have been built on the Place, and re- 
 quired feme time before it could be finifhed. 
 
Ferrara , Ravenna , Rimini. 83 
 
 the fame Nature, which are cut out as if they had 
 been made of Brick or hewn Stone, were in reality 
 only of Earth, Turf, or the like Materials; for there 
 are on the Pillar fome of thefe SuggeJIums which 
 are figured like thefe on Medals, with only this 
 Difference, that they feem built with Brick or 
 Free-ftone. At twelve Miles diftance from Ri- 
 mini (lands the little Republick of St. _ Marino » 
 which I could not forbear vifiting, tho’ it lies out 
 of the common Tour of Travellers, and has ex- 
 ceffively bad Ways to it. I (hall here give a par- 
 ticular Account of it, becaufe I know of no Body 
 elfe that has done it. One may, at lead, have the 
 Pleafure of feeing in it fomething more fingular 
 than can be found in great Governments, and form 
 from it an Idea of Venice in its firft Beginnings, 
 when it had only a few Heaps of Earth for its 
 Dominions, or of Rome it felf, when it had yet 
 cover’d but one of its Seven Hills. 
 
HE Town and Republick of St. Ma- 
 rino {lands on the Top of a very high, 
 and craggy Mountain. It is generally 
 hid among the Clouds, and lay under 
 Snow when I faw it, tho’ it was clear 
 and warm Weather in all the Coun- 
 try about it. There is not a Spring or Fountain, 
 that I could hear of, in the whole Dominions, but 
 they are always well provided with huge . Citterns 
 and Refervoirs of Rain and Snow-water. The Wine 
 that grows on the Tides of their Mountain is ex- 
 traordinary good, and I think much better than 
 any I met with on. the cold fide of the Apennines. 
 This puts me in mind of their Cellars, which have 
 moft of ’em a natural Advantage that renders ’em 
 extremely cool in the hottefl Seafons, for they have 
 generally in the Sides of them deep Holes that run 
 into the Hollows of the Hill, from whence there 
 
 con- 
 
7 ’he Republick , See. 85 
 
 conftantly i flues a breathing kind ofVapcurs, To very 
 chilling in the Summer time, that a Man can fearep 
 fuller his Hand in the Wind of it. 
 
 This Mountain, and a few neighbouring Hil- 
 locks that lie flatter’d about the Bottom of ? it, is 
 the whole Circuit of thefe Dominions. They have, 
 what^they call, three Caflles, three Convents, and 
 five Churches, and reckon about five thoufand Souls 
 in thei? Community. The Inhabitants as well as 
 the Hiftorians, who mention this little Republick . 
 give the following Account of its Original. St! 
 Marino was its Founder, a Dalmatian by Birth,, 
 and by Trade a Mafon. He was employed above 
 thirteen hundred Years ago in the Reparation of Ri- 
 mini , and, after he had finifh’d his Work, retired 
 to this folitary Mountain, as finding it very pro- 
 per for the Life of the Hermit which he led in 
 the greateft Rigours and Auflerities of Religion. 
 He had not been here long before he wrought a 
 reputed Miracle, which, joined with his extraordi- 
 nary Sandtity,. gain’d him fo great an Efteem, that- 
 the Princefs of the Country made him a Prefen t of 
 the Mountain to difpofe of it at his own Difcre- 
 tion. His Reputation quickly Peopled it, and gave 
 Rife to the Republick which calls it felf after his 
 Name. So that the Commonwealth of Marino 
 may boaft at leaft of a nobler Original than that 
 of. Rome , the one having been at firfl an Afylum for 
 Robbers and Murderers, and the other a Refort of 
 Perfons eminent for their Piety and Devotion.. The 
 hell of their Churches is dedicated to the Saint 
 and holds his Afhes. His Statue Hands over the 
 high Altar, with the Figure of a Mountain in its 
 Hands, crown’d with three Caflles, which is like- 
 wife the Arms of the Commonwealth. They at- 
 tribute 
 
8 6 The Republick 
 
 tribute to his Prote&ion the long Duration of their 
 State, and look on him as the greateft Saint next 
 the Blefied Virgin. I faw in their Statute-Book a 
 Law againft fuch as fpeak difrefpe&fully of him, 
 who are to be punifhed in the fame manner as 
 thofe who are convi&ed of Blafphemy. 
 
 This petty Republick has now lafted thirteen 
 hundred Years, while all the other States of Italy 
 have feveral times changed their Matters and* Forms 
 of Government. Their whole Hiftory is compris’d 
 in two Purchafes, which they made of a neighbour- 
 ing Prince, and in a War in which , they aflifted 
 the Pope againft a Lord of Rimini. In the Year 
 noo they bought a Cattle in the Neighbourhood, 
 as they did another in the YYar 1170. The Pa- 
 pers of the Conditions are preferv’d in their Archives, 
 where ’tis very remarkable that the Name of the 
 Agent for the Commonwealth, of the Seller, of the 
 Notary, and the Witnefles, are the fame in both 
 the Instruments, tho’ drawn up at feventy Years 
 diftance from each other. Nor can it be any Mif- 
 take in the Date, becaufe the Popes and Emperors 
 Names, with the Year of their refpedfive Reigns, 
 are both punctually fet down. About two hundred 
 and ninety Years after this they aflifted Pope 
 Pius the Second againft one of the Malatejla’s , 
 who was then Lord of Rimini ; and when they 
 had helped to conquer him, received from the 
 Pope, as a Reward for their Afliftance, four little 
 Cattles. This they reprefent as the . flourifhing 
 Time of the Commonwealth, when their Domi- 
 nions reach’d half way up a neighbouring Hill ; 
 but at prefent they are reduced to their old Ex- 
 tent. They would probably fell, their Liberty as 
 dear as they could to any that attacked them ; for 
 
 there 
 
of St. Marino. Sy 
 
 there is but one Road by which, to climb up to 
 them, and they have a very fevere Law againft 
 any of their own Body that enters the Town by 
 another Path, left any new one fhould be worn on 
 the Sides of their Mountain. All that are capable 
 of bearing Arms are exercis’d, and ready at a Mo- 
 ment’s Call. 
 
 The Sovereign Power of the Republick was 
 lodg’d originally in what they call the Arengo, a 
 great Council in which every Houfe had its Repre- 
 fentative. But becaufe they found too much Con- 
 fufton in fuch a Multitude of Statefmen, they de- 
 volv’d their w'hole Authority into the Hands of 
 the Council of Sixty. The Aren go however is ftill 
 called together in Cafes of extraordinary Impor- 
 tance ; and if, after due Summons, any Member 
 abfents himfelf, he is to be fin’d to the value of a- 
 bout a Penny Englijh , which the Statute fays he 
 fhall pay, Sine aliqud diminutione aut gratia. In 
 the ordinary Courfe of Government, the Council 
 of Sixty (which, notwithftanding the Name, con- 
 fifts but of forty Perfons) has in its Hands the Ad- 
 miniftration of Affairs, and is made up half out of 
 the Noble Families, and half out of the Plebeian . 
 They decide all by Baloting, are not admitted ’till 
 five and twenty Years old, and choofe the Officers 
 of the Commonwealth. 
 
 Thus far they agree with the. Great Council of 
 Venice, but their Power is much more extended ; 
 for no Sentence can ftand that is not confirm’d 
 by two Thirds of this Council. Befides that no 
 Son can be admitted into it during the Life of 
 his -Father, nor two be in it of the fame Family, 
 nor any enter but by Eleftion. The chief Officers 
 of the Commonwealth are the two Capitaneos , 
 
 who 
 
gg The Republic k 
 
 who have fuch a Power as the old Reman Con-- 
 fuls had, but are chofen every fix Months. I talk’d 
 with Tome that had been Capitancos fix or feven 
 times, tho’ the Office is never to be continu’d to 
 the fame Pcrfons twice fucceffivelv. The third 
 Officer is the Cdmmiffary, who judges in all Ci- 
 vil and Criminal Matters. But becaufe the ma- 
 ny Alliances, Friendfhips, and Intermarriages, as 
 Well as the Perfonal Feuds and Animcfities that 
 happen among fo fmall a People might obftruct 
 the Courfe of Juftice, if one of their own Num- 
 ber had the Diftributicn of it ; they have always 
 a Foreigner for this Employ, whom they choofe 
 for three: Years, and maintain out of the Publick 
 Stock. He muft be a Dc&or of Law, and a Man 
 of known Integrity. He is join’d in Com mi f- 
 fion with the Capitancos, and a&s fomething like 
 the Recorder of London under the Lord Mayor. 
 The Commonwealth of Genoa was forc’d to make 
 ufe of a foreign Judge for many Years, whilft their 
 Republick was torn into the Divifions of Guelph s' 
 and Gibelines. The fourth Man in the State is the 
 Phyfician, who muft likewife be a Stranger, and 
 is maintain’d by a publick Salary. He is obhg d 
 to keep a Horfe, to vifit the Sick, and to infpect 
 all Drugs that are imported. He mud: be at leaf! 
 thirty five Years old, a Do&or of the Faculty, and 
 eminent for his Religion and Honefty j that his 
 Rafhnefs or Ignorance may not unpeople the Com- 
 monwealth. And that they may not fuffer long 
 UI1( l C r any bad Choice, he is eleAed only for three 
 Years. The prefent Phyfician is a very underfland-r 
 in<T Man, and well read in our Countrymen, Har- 
 ° Willis, Sydenham , &c. He has been continu’d 
 for’fome time among ’em, and they fay the Com r 
 
 mon wealth. 
 
 
of St. Marino. 
 
 89 
 
 monwealth thrives under his Hands. Another Per- 
 fon, who makes no ordinary Figure in the Repub- 
 lick, is the School-Matter. I fcarce met with any 
 in the Place that had not fome Tin&ure of Learn- 
 ing. I had the Perufal of a Latin Rook in Folio, 
 entitled, Statuta Illajlriffima Reipublicte SanSii Ma- 
 rini , Printed at Rimini by order of the Common- 
 wealth. The Chapter on the publick Minifters 
 fays, that when an Ambaflador is difpatch’d from 
 the Republick to any Foreign State he fhall be 
 allow’d, out of the Treafury, to the Value of a 
 Shilling a Day. The People are efteem’d very 
 honett: and rigorous in the Execution of Juftice, 
 and feem to live more happy and contented among 
 their Rocks and Snows, than others of the Italians 
 do in the pleafanteft Vallies of the World. Nothing 
 indeed can be a greater Inftance of the natural Love 
 that Mankind has for Liberty, and of their Aver- 
 fion to Arbitrary Government, than fuch a Savage 
 Mountain cover’d with People, and the Campania 
 of Rome , which lies in the fame Country, almoft de- 
 ftkute of Inhabitants. 
 
 Refaro , 
 
Pefaro , Fano, Senigallia > 
 Ancona , Loretta , &c. 
 
 To ROME 
 
 ROM Rimini to Loretto the Towns 
 of Note are Pefaro, Fano , Scnigal- 
 lia , and Ancona. Fano received its 
 Name from the Fane or Temple 
 of Fortune that Food in it. One 
 may Fill fee .the Triumphal Arch 
 there to Jugujius : It is indeed very much 
 defac’d by Time, but the Plan of it, as it Food 
 entire with all its Infcriptions, is neatly cut upon 
 the Wall of a neighbouring Building. In each of 
 thefe Towns is a beautiful Marble Fountain, 
 where the Water runs continually thro’ feveral 
 little Spouts, which looks very refrelhing in thefe 
 hot Countries, and gives a great Coolnefs to the 
 Air about them. That of Pefaro is handfomly 
 defigned. Ancona is much the moF considerable of 
 thefe T owns. It Fands on a Promontory, and looks 
 more beautiful at a diFance than when you are in 
 it. The Port was made by ' Trajan , for which he 
 has a T riumphal Arch eretFed to him by the Sea- 
 Fde. The Marble of this Arch looks very white 
 and frefli, as being expofcd to the Winds and Salt 
 
 Sea- 
 
Pe/aro , Fano y Senigallia , &c. 91 
 
 Sea-Vaponrs, that by continually fretting it preferves 
 it felf from that mouldy Colour, which others 01 
 the fame Materials. have contraaed. Tho’ the Ita- 
 lians and Voyage- Writers call thefe of Rimim , Fano y 
 and Ancona Triumphal Arches, there was probably 
 feme Diftinaicn made among the Romans between 
 fuch Honorary Arches ereaed to Emperors, and 
 thofe that were rais’d to them on account of a 
 Viaory, which are properly Triumphal Arches. 
 This at Ancona was an Inffance of Gratitude to 
 "Trajan for the Port he had maue theie, as the tv. o 
 others I have mention’d were probably for fome 
 Reafon of the fame nature. One may however ob- 
 ferve-the Wifdom of the ancient Remans r, who to 
 encourage their Emperors in their Inclination of do- 
 ing good to their Country, gave the fame Honours 
 to & the great Aaions of Peace, which turn’d to the 
 Advantage of the Publick, as to thofe of War. This 
 is very remarkable in the Medals that were {lamp d 
 on the fame Occafions. I remember to have feen 
 one of G albas with a Triumphal Arch on the Re- 
 verie, that was made by the Senate’s Order for his 
 having remitted a Tax. R. XXXX. RE MISS A. 
 S. C. " The Medal which was made for Trajan , in 
 Remembrance of his Beneficence to Ancona , is. very 
 common. The Reverie has on it a Port with a 
 Chain running acrofs it, and betwixt them both a 
 Boat, with this Infcription, S. P . ^ R • OPTIMO 
 PRINCIPE S. C. 
 
9 I 2 Pefare, Fano ; Senigallia , 
 
 I know Fabretti would fain afcribe this Medal to' 
 another Occafion, but Bellorio , in his Additions to 
 Angeloni , has fufficiently refuted all he fays on that 
 Subjedt 
 
 At Loretto I inquir’d for the Eriglijb Jcfuits 
 Lodgings, and on the Stair-Cafe that lead^ to ’em 
 I faw leveral Pictures of fuch as had been Exe- 
 cuted 
 
Ancona , Loretto , &c. to Rome. 93 
 
 cuted in England , as the two Garnets , Old-Corn , 
 I and others to the Number of thirty. "Whatever 
 were their Crimes, the Infcription fays the / fuf- 
 fer’cl for their Religion, and fome of ’em are repre- 
 sented lying under fuch Tortures as are not in ufe 
 among us. The Martyrs of 1679 are fet by them- 
 felves, with a Knife Ruck in the Bofom of each Fi- 
 gure, to fignify that they were quarter’d. 
 
 The Riches in the Holy Houle and Treafury 
 are furprizingly great, and 'as much furpafs’d my 
 Expectation as other Sights have generally fallen 
 fhort of it. . Silver can fcarce find an Admiffion, 
 and Gold itfelf looks but poorly among fuch an 
 incredible number of precious Stones. There will 
 be, in a few Ages more, the Jewels of the greatefi: 
 Value in Europe , if the Devotion of its Princes con- 
 tinues in its prefent Fervour. The laft Offering 
 was made by the Queen Dowager of Poland , and 
 coft her 1 8000 Crowns. Some have wonder’d that 
 the Turk never attacks this Treafury, fince it lies 
 io near the Sea-fhore, and is lb weakly guarded. 
 But befiaes that he has attempted it formerly with 
 no Succefs, it is certain the Venetians keep too watch- 
 ful an Eye over his Motions at prefent, and would 
 never fuller him to enter the Adriatic. It would 
 indeed be an eafy thing for a Chriftian Prince to 
 furprize it, who has Ships ftill paffing to and fro 
 without Sufpicion, efpecially if he had a Party in 
 the Town, difguis’d like Pilgrims to fecure a Gate 
 for him ; for there have been fometimes to the 
 Number of 100000 in a Day’s time, as it is gene- 
 rally reported. But ’tis probable the Veneration for 
 the Holy Hcufe, and the Horror of an Action that 
 would be refented by all the Catholick Princes of 
 Europe , will be as great a Security to the Place as 
 
 the 
 
94 Pefaro,- Fano ) Senigallia , 
 
 the ftrongeft Fortification. It is indeed an amazing 
 thing to fee fuch a prodigious Quantity of Riches 
 lie dead, and untouch’d in the midft of fo much 
 Poverty and Mifery as reign on all fides of ’em. 
 There is no queftion, however, but the Pope would 
 make ufe of thefe Trea fures in cafe of any great 
 Calamity that fhould endanger the Holy See ; as 
 an unfortunate War with the Turk , or a power- 
 ful League among the Proteftants. For I can’t 
 but look on thofe'vaft Heaps of Wealth, that are 
 amafs’d together in fo many Religious Places of 
 Italy, as the hidden Referves and Magazines of the 
 Church, that foe would open on any preffing Oc- 
 casion for her laft Defence and Prefervation. If thefe 
 Riches were all turn’d into current Coin, and em- 
 ploy’d in Commerce, they would make Italy the 
 moft flourifoing Country in Europe. The Cafe of 
 the Holy Ploufe is nobly defign’d, and executed by 
 the great Matters of Italy, that flourifh’d about a 
 hundred Years ago. The Statues of the Sibylj are 
 very finely wrought, each of ’em in a different 
 Air and Pofture, as are likewife thofe of the Pro- 
 phets underneath ’em. The Roof of the Trea- 
 fury is painted with the fame kind of Device. 
 There ftands at the upper End of it a large Cru- 
 cifix very much ettecm’d, the h igure of our Savi- 
 our reprefents him in his laft Agonies of Death, and 
 a midft all the Ghaftlinefs of the Vifage has lome- 
 thing in it very amiable. The Gates of the Church 
 are faid to be of Corinthian Brafs, with many 
 Scripture Stories rifing on ’em in Bajfo _ Relievo. 
 The Pope’s Statue, and the Fountain by it, would 
 make a noble Show in a Place lefs beautified with 
 fo many other Productions of Art. The Spicery, 
 the Cellar and its Furniture, the great Revenues 
 
Ancona , Loretto, &c. to Rome. g$ 
 
 of the Convent, with the Story of the Holy 
 Houfe, are too well known to be here infilled 
 upon. 
 
 Whoever were the hr ft Inventors of this Im- 
 pofture, they feerri to have taken the Hint of it 
 from the Veneration that the old Romans paid to 
 the Cottage of Romulus , which flood on Mount 
 Capitol , and was repair’d from time to time as it 
 fell to decay. Virgil has given a pretty Image of 
 this little thatch’d Palace, that reprefents it hand- 
 ing in Manlius's Time, 327 Years after the Death 
 of Romulus. 
 
 In fummo cnjlos Tarpeia Manlius arcis 
 Stabat pro te?nplo , C f Capitolia cclfa ienebat : 
 Romuleoque recens horrebat Regia cuhno. /En . L. 8 . 
 
 High on a Rock Heroick Manlius flood 
 To guard the Temple, and the Temple’s God : 
 Then Rome was poor, and there you might behold 
 The Palace thatch’d with Straw. Dry den. 
 
 From Loretto, in my way to Rome, I pafs’d 
 thro’ Recanati , Maceraia , Toleniino , and Polignt. 
 In the laft there is a Convent of Nuns call’d la 
 ConteJJa , that has in the Church an incomparable 
 Madonna of Raphael. At Spoletto , the next Town 
 on the Road, are fome Antiquities. The moft 
 remarkable is an Aquedmft of a Gothic Structure, 
 that conveys the Water from Mount St. Francis to 
 Spoletto , which is not to be equall’d for its height 
 by any other in Europe. They reckon from the 
 Foundation of the loweft Arch to the Top of it 
 230 Yards. In my way hence to Terni I faw the 
 River Clitumnus , celebrated by fo many of the 
 
 Poets 
 
g6 Pefarcr ■ .Fd« 0 , Senigallia , 
 
 Poets for a particular Quality in its Waters of 
 making Cattle white that drink of it. The Inha- 
 bitants of that Country have hill the fame Opini- 
 on of it, as I found upon Inquiry, and have a 
 great many G en of a whitifh 'Colour to confirm 
 'em in : It is probable this Breed was firft fettled 
 
 in the Country, and continuing ftill the fame Spe- 
 cies, Iras made the Inhabitants impute it to a wrong 
 Cat f e ; tho’ tlev may as well fanfy their Hogs 
 turn black for feme Reafon of the fame nature, 
 because there are none in Italy of any other Breed. 
 The River Clitumnus , and Mevania that hood on 
 the Banks of it, are famous for the Herds of Vic- 
 tims with which they furnifli’d all Italy. 
 
 IUhtd formoja fuo Clitumnus flumina luco 
 
 Intcgit , iff Niveos abluit unda boves. Prop. L. 2. 
 
 Hinc Albi , Clitumne , greges , iff maxima Taurus 
 Viftima^ Jape tuo perfuji jlumine Jacro , 
 
 Romanos ad Templa Deum duxere triumphos, 
 
 Georg. 2. Virg, 
 
 There flows Clitumnus thro’ the flow’ry Plain ; 
 Whofe Waves, for Triumphs after profp’rous War, 
 The Vidlim Ox, and Snowy Sheep prepare. 
 
 - ■■■■' ■■ - Patulis Clitumnus in Arvis 
 Candentes gelido profundit jlumine Tauros. 
 
 Sil. L. 2. 
 
 Tauriferis ubi fe Mevania campis 
 
 Explicat Luc. L. 1. 
 
 — — — — Atque ubi latis 
 Project a in campis nebulas exhalat inertes , 
 
 Et fedet ingentem pajeens Mevania taurum , 
 
 Dona, 
 
Ancon a , Loretto , &c. to 2?^^. 
 
 Dona Jovi — Id. L. 6, 
 
 Ate ft vacuet Mevania vallcs , 
 
 dut pres /lent niveos Clitumna novalia tauros , 
 
 Sufficiam — : — Stat. Syl. L. i . 
 
 “ inguior Hifpulld traheretur taurus et ipfd 
 Mole piger , non finitimd nutritus in berbd , 
 ojlendens Clitumni pafcua fanguis 
 tret, et d grandi cervix ferienda Minifir o. 
 
 Juv. Sat. 12. 
 
 A Bull high-fed fliould fall the Sacrifice, 
 
 One of Hifpulla’s huge prodigious Size : 
 
 Not one of thofe our neighb’ring Paftures feed 
 But of Clitumnus ’ whiteft Sacred Breed : 
 
 The lively Tin&ure of whofe gulhing Blood 
 Should clearly prove the Richnefs of his Food ; 
 
 A Neck fo ffiong, fo large, as would command 
 I he fpeeding Blow of fome uncommon Hand. 
 
 Mr. Congreve. 
 
 I fliall afterwards have occaficn to quote Glau~ 
 dian. 
 
 Terni is the next Town in courfe, formerly 
 call d Inter amna, for the fame Reafon that a part of 
 afia was nam’d Mefopotamia. We enter at the Gate 
 of the three Monuments, fo call’d becaufe there 
 flood near it a Monument erefted to Tacitus the 
 Hiitonan, with two others to the Emperors Tati- 
 tus and Florianus , all of them Natives of the Place. 
 Thefe were a few Years ago demolifh’d by Thun- 
 der, and the Fragments of them are in the Hands 
 of fome Gentlemen of the Town. Near the Dome 
 I was (hown a fquare Marble, inferted in the Wall, 
 with the following Infcription. 
 
 E 
 
 Saluti 
 
98 Pefaro, Fano , SenigaUla , 
 
 &?/«*/ perpetual Augujlx 
 Libcrtatique Public a Populi Romani 
 
 Genio municipi Anno poji 
 Jnteramnam Conditam. 
 
 D. CC. IV. 
 
 Ad Cneium Domitium 
 
 Ahenoharbum. 
 
 ~ Cojf. provident! a 77. Ccefaris 
 
 Auzufti nati ad /Eternitatem Romani nominis fublato 
 hope pernici ojijjimo P. R. Fauftus Titms _ Liberals 
 VI. vir iterum. P. S. F. C. that is, pecuma fua fieri 
 curavit. 
 
 This Stone was probably fet up on occafion of 
 the Fall of Sejanus. After the Name of Ahenobar- 
 bus there is a little Furrow in the Marble, but fo 
 fmooth and well polifh’d, that I ftiould not have 
 taken notice of it had not I feen CoJJ. at the end 
 of it by which it is plain there was once the Name 
 of another Conful, which has been induftrioufly 
 razed out. Lucius Aruncius Camillas Scribomanus 
 was Conful, under the Reign of * Tiberius, and 
 was afterwards put to Death for a Confpiracy that 
 he had form’d againft the Emperor Claudius ; at 
 which time it was order’d that his Name and Con- 
 Dlate fhould be effaced out of all publick Regiiters 
 and Infcriptions. It is not therefore improbable, 
 that it was this long Name which nil d up the ^ a P 
 X am now mentioning, There aie near this Tvlo- 
 nument the Ruins of an ancient Theatre, with fome 
 of the Caves intire. I faw among the Ruins an 
 old Heathen Altar, with this Particularity in it. 
 
 * Vid. Faft. Conful. SicuL 
 
 that 
 
Ancona , Loretto y &c. to Rome, gg 
 
 that it is hollow’d, like a Dith, at one End ■> but 
 it was not this End on which the Sacrifice was 
 laid, as one may guefs from the Make of the Fe- 
 ftoon, that runs round the Altar, and is inverted 
 when the Hollow Hands uppermoft. In the fame 
 Yard, among the Rubbifh of the Theatre, lie two 
 Pillars, the one of Granate, and the other of a very 
 beautiful Marble. I went out of my way to fee the 
 famous Cafcade about three Miles from Term. It 
 is form’d by the Fall of the River Velino , which 
 
 Virgil mentions in the Seventh Mneid ■ Rofea 
 
 rura Velini. 
 
 The Channel of this River lies very high, and 
 is fhaded on all fides by a green Foreft, made up 
 of feveral kinds of Trees that preferve their Ver- 
 dure all the Year. The Neighbouring Mountains 
 are covered with them, and by reafon of their 
 Height are more expos’d to the Dews and driz- 
 ling Rains ^ than any of the adjacent Parts, which 
 gives occaiion to Virgil's Rofea rura (Dewy Coun- 
 tries). The River runs extremely rapid before its 
 Fall, and rulhes down a Precipice of a hundred 
 Yards high. It throws it felf into the Hollow 
 Rock, which has probably been worn by fuch a 
 conftant Fall of Water. It is impoflible to fee the 
 Bottom on which it breaks, for the Thicknefs of 
 the Mi ft that rifes from it, which looks at a di- 
 ftance like Clouds of Smoke ^.fcending from fome 
 vaft Furnace, and diftils in perpetual Rains on all 
 the Places that lie near it. I think there is fome- 
 thing more aftonilhing in this Cafcade , than in all 
 the Water-works of Verfailles , and could not but 
 wonder when I firft faw it, that I had never met 
 with it in any of the old Poets, Specially in Claudian y 
 who makes his Emperor Honorius go out of his 
 
ioo Pefaro , Fano, Senigallia , 
 
 way to fee the River Nar which runs juft below 
 it, and yet does not mention what would have been 
 fo great an Embelliftiment to his Poem. But at 
 prefen t I don’t in the lea ft queftion, notwithftan- 
 ding the Opinion of fome learned Men to the con- 
 trary, that this is the Gulf thro’ which Virgil’s 
 Aletto fhoots her felf into Hell : for the very Place, 
 the great Reputation of it, the Fall of Waters, the 
 Woods that encompafs it, with the Smoke and 
 Noife that arife from it, are all pointed at in the 
 Defcription. Perhaps he would not mention the 
 Name of the River, becaufe he has done it in the 
 Verfes that precede. We may add to this, that 
 the Cafcade is not far off that Part of Italy which 
 has be«n call’d Italics Meditullium. 
 
 Eft locus Italics medio , fub montibus altis , 
 
 Nobilis , et famd multis ?nemoratus in oris , 
 
 Amfanfti valles , den ft s hunc frondibus atrum 
 XJrget utrinque latus nemoris , medioque fragofus 
 Eat fonitum faxis et torto vortice torrens : 
 
 Hie fpecus horrendum , et fesvi fpiracula Ditis 
 Alonjlrantur , ruptoque ingens Acheronte z or ago 
 Pejliferas aperit fauces , queis condita Erinnys 
 Invifum Numen terras cceiumque levabat. JEn. 7, 
 
 In midft of Italy , well known to Fame, 
 
 There lies a Vale, Amfanttus is the Name, 
 
 Below the lofty Mounts : On either fide 
 Thick Forefts the forbidden Entrance hide : 
 
 Full in the Centre of the facred Wood 
 An Arm arifeth of the Stygian Flood ; 
 
 Which falling from on high, with bellowing Sound 
 Whirls the black Waves and rattling Stones around. 
 
 Here 
 
Ancona , Loretto , &c. to Rome, iof 
 
 Here Pluto pants for Breath from out his Cell, 
 
 And opens wide the grinning Jaws of Hell. 
 
 To this infernal Gate the Fury flies, 
 
 Here hides her hated Head, and frees the lat>’rin<v 
 
 Skies. Dryden, 
 
 It was indeed the moft proper Place in the World 
 for a Fury to make her Exit , after Are had filled a- 
 Nation with Detractions and Alarms ; and I be- 
 lieve every Reader’s Imagination is pleas’d, when he 
 fees the angry Goddefs thus finking, as it were, in. 
 a Tempo It, and plunging her felf into Hell, amidft 
 fuch a Scene of Horror and Cpnfufion. 
 
 Fhe River £ elino , after having found its way out 
 from among the Rocks where it falls, runs into the 
 Nera. The Channel of this laft River is white 
 with Rocks, and the Surface of it, for a long 
 Space, cover’d with Froth and Bubbles ; for it runs 
 all along upon the Fret, and is {till breaking againft 
 the Stones that oppofe its Paflage : So that for'thefe 
 Reafons, as well as for the Mixture of Sulphur in 
 its Waters, it is very well defcrib’d by Virgil , in 
 that V erfe which mentions thefe two Rivers in their 
 old Roman Names. 
 
 Tartaream intendit vocem, qua protinus omne 
 Contremuit nemus , et fylva intonueve profunda, 
 
 Audiit et longe Trivia lacus , audiit amnis 
 Sulfur ed Nar albus aqua, fontefque Velini. 
 
 iEn. 7,. 
 
 The facred Lake of Trivia from afar, -\ 
 
 Fhe Veline b ountains, and Sulphureous Nar , ( 
 
 Shake at the baleful Blaft, the Signal of the War. 3 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 E 3 He: 
 
302 'Pefaro , Fano , Senlgallia , 
 
 He makes the Sound of the Fury’s Trumpet run 
 up the AVrt to the very Sources of Velino , which 
 agrees extremely well with the Situation of thefe 
 Rivers. When Virgil has mark’d any particular 
 Quality in a River," the other Poets feldom fail of 
 copying after him. 
 
 — Sulphur eus Nar. Aufon. 
 
 * Narque albcfcentibus undis 
 
 In Tibrim proper ans — — — Sil. It. I>. 8. 
 
 * — ~ Et Nar vitiatus odoro 
 
 Sulfur e — Claud, de Pr. St Olyb. Conf. 
 
 The hoary Nar 
 
 Corrupted with the Stench of Sulphur flows, 
 
 And into Tiber’s Streams th’ infeded Current throws. 
 
 From this River our next Town on the Road re- 
 ceives the Name of Narni. I faw hereabouts no- 
 thing remarkable except Augu/luds Bridge, that 
 Hands half a mile from the Town, and is one of 
 the ftatelieft Ruins in Italy. It has no Cement, and 
 looks as firm as one intire Stone. There is an Arch 
 of it unbroken, the broadeft that I have ever feen, 
 tfio’ by reafon of its great Height it does not ap- 
 pear fo. The middle one was ftill much broader. 
 They join’d together two Mountains, and belong d, 
 without doubt, to the Bridge that Martial menti- 
 ons, tho’ Mr. Ray takes them to the Remains of an 
 Aquedudl. 
 
 Sed jam parce mi hi , nec abutere Narnia S^uinto ; 
 
 Per pet no liceat fic tibi pontc frui ! T. 7» 
 
 Preferve my better part, and fpare my Friend 5 
 So, Narni , may thy Bridge for ever ftand. 
 
Ancona , Loretto , &c. to Rome . 103 ' 
 
 From Afom I went to Otricoli , a very mean 
 little Village, that {lands where the Caftle of Ocri- 
 culum did formerly. I turn’d about half a Mile 
 out of the Road, to fee the Ruins of the old Ocri- 
 culum , that lie near the Banks of the Tiber. There 
 are ftill. fcatter’d Pillars and Pedeftals, huge Pieces 
 of Marble half-buried in the Earth, Fragments 
 of Towers, Subterraneous Vaults, Bathing-Places, 
 and the like Marks of its ancient Magnificence. 
 
 In my way to Rome , feeing a high Hill {land- 
 ing by it felf in the Campania , I did not queftion 
 but it had a ClaJJic Name", and upon Enquiry found 
 it to be Mount SoraSle. The Italians at prefent 
 call it, becaufe its Name begins with an d>, St. 
 Orefie. 
 
 The Fatigue of our eroding the Apennines , and 
 of our whole Journey from Loretto to Rome , was 
 very agreeably reliev’d by the Variety of Scenes 
 we pafs’d thro’. For not to mention the rude 
 Profpe£t of Rocks riling one above another, of 
 the deep Gutters worn in the Sides of them by 
 Torrents of Rain and Snow-Water, or the long 
 Channels of Sand winding about their Bottoms, 
 that are fometimes filled with fo many Rivers : 
 We faw, in fix Days travelling, the feveral Sea- 
 fons of the Year in their Beauty and Perfe&ion. 
 We were fometimes Shivering on the top of a 
 bleak Mountain, and a little while after Basking 
 in a warm Valley, covered with Violets and Al- 
 mond-trees in Bio {Torn, the Bees already fwarm- 
 ing over them, tho’ but in the Month of February. 
 Sometimes our Road led us thro’ Groves of O- 
 lives, or by Gardens of Oranges, or into feveral 
 hollow Apartments among the Rocks and Moun- 
 tains, that look like fo many natural Green-houfes;. 
 
 E 4 as 
 
104 Fefaro , Fano, Senigallia. 
 
 as being always fhaded with a great Variety of 
 Trees and Shrubs that never lofe their Verdure. 
 
 I fhall fay nothing of the Via Flaminia , which 
 has been fpoken of by moft of the Voyage-Writers 
 that have pafs’d it, but fhall fet down Claudian’ s 
 Account of the Journey that Honorius made from 
 Ravenna to Rome, which lies moft of it in the 
 fame Road that I have been deferibing. 
 
 ■ — Antiques muros egrejfa Ravenna 
 Signa mevet , jamque ora Radi portufque relinquit 
 Flumineos , certis ubi legibus advena Nereus 
 /Fjluat, et pronas puppes nunc amne fecundo , 
 
 Nunc redeunte vehit , nudataque littora jiudtu 
 Deferit , Oceani Lunaribus amula damnis j 
 Latior hinc Fano rccipit Fortuna vetujlo , 
 Dejpicitv.rque vagus praruptd valle Metaurus , 
 
 * Qua mans arte patens vivo fe perforat Arcu, 
 Admifitque viam fedia per vifcera rupis , 
 
 Exuperans delubra Jovis, faxoque minantes 
 Apenninigenis cultas pajloribus aras : 
 
 Quin et Clitumni facras vidtoribus undas , 
 
 Candida qua Latiis pres bent armenta triumphis , 
 
 V if ere cur a fuit. Nec te miracula Font is f 
 Prater eunt : tacito pajfu quem fi quis adiret , 
 
 Lentus erat ; ft voce gradum major e citdffet , 
 Commi/iis fervebat aquis : cumque 'omnibus una 
 Sit natura vadis, ft miles ut ccrporis umbras 
 Ojlendant , hac fola novam j a Ft anti a fortem 
 Flumanos properant imitari Jiumina mores. 
 
 * An Highway made by Vefpafian, like the Gr»tto Obfcur * 
 near Naples. 
 
 t The Fountain not known. 
 
 Celfa 
 
Ancona , Loretto , &c. to Rome ioy; 
 
 Celfa dehinc patulum profpeSiam Narnia campum 
 
 Regali calcatur equo , rarique^ colons 
 
 Non procul amnis adeft, urbi qui nominis auftor 
 
 llice fub dens d fy his ar flatus opacis 
 
 Inter utrumque jugum tortis anfraftibus albet. 
 
 Inde falutato libatis Tibride Nymphis , 
 
 Excipiunt arcus , operofaque f emit a, vajlis 
 Modbus* & quicquid t antes pr remit t it ur urbi. 
 
 De 6. Conf. Hon> 
 
 They leave Ravenna , and the Mouths of Po , 
 
 That all the Borders of the Town o’erflow ; 
 
 And fpreading round in one continu’d Lake, 
 
 A fpacious hofpitable Harbour make. 
 
 Hither the Seas at Hated times refort, 
 
 And fhove the loaden VelTels into Port ; 
 
 Then with a gentle Ebb retire again. 
 
 And render back their Cargo to the Main. 
 
 So the pale Moon the reftlefs Ocean guides, 
 
 Driv’n to and fro by fuch fubmiffive Tides. 
 
 Fair Forttfne next, with Looks ferene and kind, 
 Receives ’em, in her ancient Fane enfhrin’d ; 
 
 Then the high Hills they crofs, and from below 
 In diftant Murmurs hear Metaurus flow, 
 
 ’Till to Clitutnno ’ s facred Streams they come, 
 
 That fend white Victims to Almighty Rome ; 
 When her triumphant Sons in War fucceed. 
 
 And flaughter’d Hecatombs around ’em bleed. 
 
 At Narni’s lofty Seats arriv’d, from far 
 They view the Windings of the hoary Nar ; 
 Through Rocks and Woods impetuoufly he glides, . 
 While Froth and Foam the fretting Surface hides. 
 And now the Royal Gueft, all Dangers pafs’d. 
 
 Old Tiber and his Nymphs.falutes at laft; 
 
 The long laborious Pavement here he treads. 
 
 That to proud Rome th’ admiring Nations leads ; 
 
 E. 5 While 
 
N \ 
 
 106 Pefaro , Fano, Senigallia , 
 
 While {lately Vaults and tow’ring Piles appear, 
 
 And {how the World’s Metropolis is near. 
 
 Stilus It aliens, who has taken more Pains on the 
 Geography of Italy than any other of the Latin 
 Poets, has given a Catalogue of moft of the Rivers 
 that I faw in Umbria , or in the Borders of it. He 
 has avoided a Fault (if it be really fuch) which 
 Macrobius has objected to Virgil , of palling from 
 one Place to another, without regarding their regu- 
 lar and natural Situation, in which Hotner’s Cata- 
 logues are obferv’d to be much more methodical and 
 exact than Virgil’s. 
 
 Cavis v ententes montibus Umbri , 
 
 Hos /Efts Sapifque lavant , rapidafque fonanti 
 V ortice contorquens undas per faxa Metaurus : 
 
 Et lavat ingentem perfundens famine facro 
 Clitumnus taurum , Narque albefcentibus nndis 
 In Tibnm proper a ns, ‘Tineceque inglorius humor, 
 
 Et Clanis, et Rubico , et Senonum de nomine .Senon. 
 
 Sed pater ingenti medios illabitur amne 
 Albula , et imrnotd perjlringit mcenia ripa , 
 
 His urbes arva, et latis Mevania pratis, 
 
 Hifpellum, et duro ?nonti per faxa recumbens 
 Narnia, &c. Sil. It. L. 8. 
 
 Since I am got among the Poets, I {hall end 
 this Chapter with two or three Paffages out of 
 them, that I have omitted inferting in their proper 
 Places. 
 
 Sit Cijlerna mihi quam Vinea malo Ravennce , 
 
 Cum poffim tnulto vendere pluris Aquam. 
 
 Mar. L. 3 . 
 Lodg’d 
 
Ancona , Loretta , &c. to Rome . 107’ 
 
 Lodg’d at Ravenna , (Water fells fo dear) 
 
 A Ciftern to a Vineyard I prefer, 
 
 Gallidus impofuit nuper mihi Caupo Ravenna: ; 
 
 Cumpeterem mixtum , vendidit ille merurn. Idi. 
 
 By a Ravenna Vintner once betray’d. 
 
 So much for Wine and Water mix’d I paid ; 
 
 But when I thought the purchas’d Liquor mine. 
 
 The Rafcal fobb’d me off with only Wine. 
 
 Stat fucare coins , nec Sidone villor Ancon , 
 
 Muricenec Ryrio Sil. It. L. 8,. 
 
 The Wool when {haded with Ancona' s-Oye, 
 
 May with the proudeft Tyrian Purple vie. 
 
 Fountain Water is ftill very fcarce at Ravenna*, . 
 and was probably much more fo, when the Sea was 
 within its Neighbourhood. 
 
FROM 
 
 ROME 
 
 T O 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 P O N my Arrival at Rome I took a 
 
 1101111 W ^* ew ^ t ‘ R eter ’ s -> an< ^ Rotun- 
 
 II da, leaving the reft ’till my Return 
 
 fwm Naples, when I fiiould have 
 time and leifure enough to confider 
 ’ 1 “““ what I Taw. St. Peter’s feldom an- 
 fwers Expectation at firft entering it, but enlarges 
 it felf on all Sides infenfibly, and mends upon the 
 Eye every Moment. The Proportions are fo ve- 
 ry well obferv’d, that nothing appears to an Ad- 
 vantage, or diftinguilhes it fell' above the reft. It 
 feems neither extremely high, nor long, nor broad, 
 becaufe it is all of them in a juft Equality. As 
 on the contrary in our Gothic Cathedrals, the Nar- 
 rownefs of the Arch makes it rife in Height, or 
 run out in Length ; the Lownefs often opens it 
 in Breadth, or the Defe&ivenefs of feme other 
 Particular make3 any ftngle Part appear in great 
 
 Perfection, 
 
From Rome to Naples. 109 
 
 Perfection. Tho’ every thing in this Church is 
 admirable, the moft afton idling Part of it is the 
 Cupola. Upon my going to the top of it, I was 
 furpriz’d to find that the Dome, which we fee in 
 the Church, is not the fame that one looks upon 
 without Doors, the laft of them being a kind of 
 Cafe to the other, and the Stairs lying betwixt 
 them both, by which one afcends into the Ball. 
 Had there been only the outward Dome, it would 
 not have fnewn it felf to an Advantage to thofe 
 that are in tire Church ; or had there only been 
 the inward one, it would fcarce have been feen by 
 thofe that are without; had they both been one fo- 
 lid Dome of fo great a Thicknefs, the Pillars would 
 have been too weak to have fupported it. After 
 having furvey’d this Dome, I went to fee the Ro- 
 tunda, which is generally faid to have been the 
 Model of it. This Church is at prefent fo much 
 chang’d from the ancient Pantheon , as Pliny has 
 defcrib’d it, that fome have been inclin’d to think 
 it is not the fame Temple; but the Cavalier Fon- 
 tana has abundantly fatisfy’d the World in this 
 Particular, and {hewn how the ancient Figure, and 
 Ornaments of the Pantheon , have been chang’d in- 
 to what they are at prefent. This Author, who 
 is now efteem’d the belt of the Roman Architects, 
 has lately written a Treatife on Vejpafiari ’ s Amphi- 
 theatre, which is not yet printed. 
 
 After having feen thefe two Matter-pieces of 
 Modern and Ancient Architecture, I have often 
 confider’d with my felf whether the ordinary Fi- 
 gure of the Heathen or that of the Chriftian Tem- 
 ples be the moft beautiful, and the moft capable- 
 of Magnificence, and can’t forbear thinking the 
 Crois Figure more proper for fuch fpacious Build- 
 ings 
 
iio From Rome to Naples. 
 
 ings than the Rotund. I muft confefs the Eye is 
 much better fill’d at firft entering the Rotund , and 
 takes in the whole Beauty and Magnificence of 
 the Temple at one view. But fuch as are built in. 
 the Form of a Crofs, give us a greater Variety of 
 Noble Profpects. Nor is it eafy to conceive a 
 more glorious Show in Architecture, than what a 
 Man meets with in St. Peters , when he ftands un- 
 der the Dome. If he looks upward, he is afto- 
 nifhed at the fpacious Hollow of the Cupola, and 
 has a Vault on every fide of him, that makes one 
 of the beautifulleft Vijias that# the Eye can poffi- 
 bly pafs thro’. I know that fuch as are profefs’d 
 Admirers of the Ancients will find abundance of 
 chimerical Beauties, the Architects themfelves ne- 
 ver thought of ; as one of the moil Famous of the 
 Moderns in that Art tells us, the Hole in the 
 Roof of the Rotunda is fo admirably contriv’d, 
 that it makes thofe who are in the Temple look 
 like Angels, by diffufihg the Light equally on all 
 fides of them. 
 
 In all the old Highways, that lead from Rome r 
 one fees feveral little Ruins on each fide of them, 
 that were formerly fo many Sepulchres ; for the an- 
 cient Romans generally bury’d their Dead near the 
 great Roads. 
 
 Quorum Flaminia tegitur clnls atque Lalind, 
 
 Juv. S. I, 
 
 None, but fome few of a very extraordinary Qua- 
 lity, having been interred within the Walls of the 
 City. 
 
 Our Chriflian Epitaphs, that are to be feen only 
 in Churches, or Church-yards, being often with 
 

 From Rome to Naples. m 
 
 a Sifte Viator. Viator precare falutem , &c. pro- 
 bably in Imitation of the old Roman Infcriptions 
 that generally addrefs’d themfelves to the Travel- 
 lers; as it was impoffible for them to enter the Ci- 
 ty, or to go out of it without palling thro’ one of 
 thefe melancholy Roads, which for a great Length 
 was nothing elfe but a Street of Funeral Monu- 
 ments. 
 
 In my way from Rome to Naples I found no- 
 thing fo remarkable as the Beauty of the Country 
 and the extreme Poverty of its Inhabitants. It is 
 indeed an amazing thing to fee the prefent Def- 
 lation of Italy, when one confiders what incredi- 
 ble Multitudes of People it abounded with during 
 the Reigns of the Roman Emperors: And notwitlw 
 Handing the Removal of the Imperial Seat, the 
 Irruptions of the barbarous Nations, the Civil Wars 
 of this Country, with the Hardfhips of its feveral 
 Governments, one can fcarce imagine how fo plen - 
 tiful a Soil fhould become fo miferably unpeopled 
 in comparifon of what it once was. We may 
 reckon, by a very moderate Computation, more 
 Inhabitants in the Campania of old Rome than 
 are now in all Italy. And if we could number 
 up thofe prodigious Swarms that had fettled them 
 felves in every Part of this delightful Country I 
 queffion not but that they would amount to more 
 than can be found, at prefent, in any fix Part* 
 of Europe of the fame Extent. This Deflation 
 appears no where greater than in the Pope’s Ter 
 ritories, and yet there are feveral Rcafons would 
 make a Man expect to fee thefe Dominions the 
 belt regulated, and moft flourifliing of any other in 
 Europe. Their Prince is generally a Man of 
 Learning and Virtue, mature in Years and Ex- 
 
 perience a 
 
1 12 From Rome to Naples. 
 
 perience, who has feldom any Vanity or Pleafure 
 to gratify at his People’s Expence, and is neither en- 
 cumber’d with Wife, Children or Miftrefles; not 
 'to mention the fuppos’d San&ity of his Chara&er, 
 which obliges him in a more particular manner to 
 confult the Good and Happinefs of Mankind. 
 The Direction of Church and State are lodg’d en- 
 tirely in his own Hands, fo that his Government 
 is naturally free from thofe Principles of Fa&ion 
 and Divifion which are mix’d in the very Compo- 
 fition of moft others. His Subje&s are always rea- 
 dy to fall in with his Defigns, and are more at his 
 Difpofal than any others of the moft abfolute Go 
 vernment, as they have a greater Veneration for 
 his Perfon, and not only court his Favour but his 
 Blefting. His Country is extremely fruitful, and 
 has good Havens both for the Adriatick and Me- 
 diterranean, which is an Advantage peculiar to him- 
 felf and the Neapolitans above the reft of the Ita- 
 lians. There is" ftill a Benefit the Pope enjoys a- 
 bove all other Sovereigns, in drawing great Sums 
 out of Spain, Germany , and other Countries that 
 belong to Foreign Princes, which one would fanfy 
 might 5 be no fmall Eafe to his own Subjects. We 
 may here add, that there is no Place in Europe fo 
 much frequented by Strangers, whether they are 
 fuch as come out of Curiofity, or fuch who are obli- 
 ged to attend the Court of Rome on feveral Occafi- 
 ons, as are many of the Cardinals and Prelates, that 
 bring confiderable Sums into the Pope’s Dominions. 
 But ^notwithftanding all thefe promifing Circum- 
 ftances, and the long Peace that has reign’d lo ma- 
 ny Years in Italy , there is not a more miferable 
 People in Europe than the Pope’s Subjedts. His 
 State is thin of Inhabitants, and a great Part of his 
 
From Rome to Naples. 1 13 
 
 Soil uncultivated. His Subjects are wretchedly poor 
 and idle, and have neither fufficient Manufactures 
 n®r Traffick to employ them. Thefe ill Effects 
 may arife, in a great meafure, out of the Arbitra- 
 rinefs of the Government, but I think they are 
 chiefly to be afcrib’d to the very Genius of the 
 Roman Catholick Religion, which here thews it 
 felf in its Perfection. It is not ftrange to find a 
 Country half unpeopled, where fo great a Propor- 
 tion of the Inhabitants of both Sexes is ty’d under 
 fuch Vows of Chaftity, and where at the fame 
 time an Inquifition forbids all Recruits out of any 
 other Religion. Nor is it lefs eafy to account for 
 the great Poverty and Want that are to be'j met 
 with in a Country which invites into it fuch Swarms 
 of Vagabonds, under the Title of Pilgrims, and 
 (huts up in Cloifters fuch an incredible Multitude 
 of young and lufty Beggars, who, inftead of in- 
 creafing the common Stock by their Labour and 
 Induftry, lie as a dead Weight on their Fellow- 
 Subje&s, and confume the Charity that ought to 
 fupport the Sickly, Old and Decrepid. The ma- 
 ny Hofpitals,' that are every where ereCIed, ferve 
 rather to encourage Idlenefs in the People, than to 
 fet them at Work; not to mention the great Ri- 
 ches which lie ufelefs in Churches and Religious 
 Houfes, with the Multitude of Feftivals that muft 
 never be violated by Trade or Bufinefs. To fpeak 
 truly, they are here fo wholly taken up with 
 Mens Souls, that they negleCt the good of their 
 Bodies; and when, to thefe natural Evils in the 
 Government and Religion, there arifes among 
 them an avaritious Pope, who is for making a 
 Family, it is no wonder if the People fink under 
 fuch a Complication of Diflempers. Yet it is 
 
1 14 From Rome to Naples, 
 
 to this Humour of Nepotifm that Rome owes its 
 prefent Splendor and Magnificence, for it would 
 have been impoffible to have furnilh’d out fo many 
 glorious Palaces with fuch a Profufion of Pidtures, 
 otatues, an.d the like Ornaments, had not the 
 Riches of the People at feveral times fallen into the 
 Hands of many different Families, and of particu- 
 lar Perfcns ; as we may obferve, tho’ the Bulk of 
 the Roman People was more rich and happy in the 
 times of the Commonwealth, the City of Rome re- 
 ceiv’d all its Beauties and Embellifhments under the 
 Emperors. It is probable the Campania of Ro?ne , 
 as well as other Parts of the Pope’s Territories, 
 would be cultivated much better than it ' is, were 
 there not fuch an exorbitant Tax on Corn, which 
 makes them plow up only fuch fpots of Ground as 
 turn to the mod Advantage : Whereas were the Mo- 
 ney to be rais’d on Lands, with an Exception to fome 
 of the more barren Parts, that might be Tax-free 
 for a certain Term of Years, every one would 
 turn his Ground to the beft Account, and in a lit- 
 tle time perhaps bring more Money into tire Pope’s 
 Treafury. 
 
 The greateft Pleafure I took in my Journey from 
 Rome to Naples was in feeing the Fields, Towns, 
 and Rivers, that have been deferib’d by fo many 
 Clajfic Authors, and have been the Scenes of fo ma- 
 ny great Actions ; for this whole Road is extreme- 
 ly barren of Curiofities. It is worth while to have 
 an Eye on Horace’s Voyage to Brundih ?, when 
 one pafles this Wav ; for by comparing his feveral 
 Stages, and the Road he took, with thofe that are 
 obferv’d at prefent, we may have fome Idea of the 
 Changes that have been made in the Face of this 
 Country fince his time. If we may guefs at the 
 
 common 
 
From Rome to Naples. 315 
 
 common travelling of Perfons of Quality, among the 
 ancient Romans , from this Poet’s Defcription ol his 
 Voyage, we may conclude they feldom went above 
 fourteen Miles a Day over the Appian Way, which 
 was more us’d by the Noble Romans than any o- 
 ther in Italy , as it led to Naples , Raice , and the 
 mod: delightful Parts of the Nation. It is indeed 
 very difagreeable to be carry’d in hade over this 
 Pavement. 
 
 Minus ejl gravis Appia tardis. Hor. 
 
 Lucan has defcrib’d the very Road from Anxur to 
 Rome, that Horace took from Rome to Anxur. It is 
 not indeed the ordinary Way at prefent, nor is it 
 mark’d out by the fame Places in both Poets. 
 
 famque et pres cipites juperaverat Anxuris arces , 
 
 Et qua * Pontinas via dividit uda paludes. 
 
 Ejua fubltme nemus , Scythica qua regna Diana j 
 Ejudque iter eft Latiis ad Jummam fafeibus Albam. 
 Excelsd de rupe procul jam confpicit Urbem. L. 3* 
 
 He now had conquer’d Anxur* s deep Afcent, 
 
 And to Pontina’ s wat’ry Marlhes went, 
 
 A long Canal the muddy Fen divides, 
 
 And with a clear unfully’d Current glides j 
 Diana’s woody Realms he next invades. 
 
 And eroding through the confecrated Shades 
 Afcends high Alba, whence with new Delight 
 He fees the City rifing to his Sight. 
 
 In my way to Naples I crofs’d the two mod con- 
 fiderable Rivers of the Campania Felice , that were 
 
 formerly 
 
 * Canal, the Marks */ it fiill pen. 
 
1 1 6 From Rome to Naples. 
 
 formerly call’d the Liris and Vulturnus , and are at 
 prefent the Garigllano and Vulturno. The firft of 
 thefe Rivers has been defervedly celebrated by the 
 Latin Poets for the Gentlenefs of its Courfe, as the 
 other for its Rapidity and Noife. 
 
 . Rura qua: Liris quietd 
 
 Mordet a qua, taciturnus Amnis. Hor. L. i. Od. 30,, 
 
 Liris qui fonte quiet 0 
 
 Dijfimulat curfum , et nuilo mutabilis imbre 
 P erjiringit tacitas gemmanti gurgite ripas. 
 
 , . . r . . Sil. It. L, 4. 
 
 Mijcentem fiumina Lirtm 
 
 Sulfureum , tacitifque vadis ad littora lapfum 
 Accolit Arpinas " Jch g o 
 
 Where the fmooth Streams of Liris ftray. 
 
 And Heal infenfibly away. 
 
 1 he Warlike Arpine borders on the Sides > 
 
 Of the flow Liris , that in Silence glides, / 
 
 And in its tainted Stream the working Sulphur f 
 hides. J 
 
 Vulturnufque rapax- Cl. de Pr. & Ol. Con. 
 
 Vulturnujque celer Luc. L. 2. 28. 
 
 — Fludtuque fonorum 
 
 Vulturnum Sil. It. L. 8. 
 
 The rough V ulturnus , furious in its Courfe, 
 
 "With rapid Streams divides the fruitful Grounds, 
 And from afar in hollow Murmurs founds. 
 
 The Ruins of Anxur and old Capua mark out 
 the pleafant Situation in which thofe Towns for- 
 meily flood. The firft of them was planted on 
 the Mountain, where we now fee Terracina , and 
 
 by 
 
From Rome to Naples. 1 
 
 by reafon of the Breezes that came off the Sea, and 
 the Height of its Situation, was one of the Summe 
 .Retirements of the ancient Remans. r 
 
 O nemus , O font es ! foil dumque ma dent is arena 
 Littus, et aquoreis fplendidus Anxur aquis ! 
 
 Mar. L. 10. 
 
 Ye warbling Fountains, and ye fhady Trees, 
 
 Where Anxur feels the cool refreftiing Breeze 
 Blown oft the Sea, and all the dewy Strand 
 Lies cover’d with a fmooth unfinking Sand ! 
 
 Anxuris aquorei placidos , Frontine , receffiis 
 Et proptus Baias littoreamque do mum, 
 
 Et quod inhuman & Cancro fervente Cicada 
 Non novere , nemus , flumineofque lacus 
 Dum colui , &c.’— — - — 
 
 On the cool Shore, near Baia’s gentle Seats 
 I lay retir’d in Anxur’ s foft Retreats * 
 
 Where Silver Lakes, with verdant Shadows 
 crown d, 
 
 Difperfe a grateful Chilnefs all around ; 
 
 The Grafshopper avoids th’ untainted Air, 
 
 Nor in the mid ft of Summer ventures there, 
 
 Impofitum Saxis late candentibus Anxur. 
 
 Monte proeellofo Murranum miferat Anxur. * ^ 
 
 p . if . . Sih It. L. a. 
 
 — — — ocopuloji vert i cts Anxur. Sil. It L I 
 
 Capua Luxum vide apud Sil. It. L. n*. * 
 
 Murranus came from Anxur’ s fhow’ry Height, 
 
 1 
 
i iB From Rome to Naples. 
 
 I don’t know whether it be worth while to take 
 notice that the Figures which are cut in the Rock 
 near Terracina , increafe Fill in a Decimal Propor- 
 tion as they come nearer the Bottom. If one of our 
 Voyage- Writers, who paffed this way more than 
 once, ^had obferv’d the Situation of thefe Figures, 
 he would not have troubled himfelf with the Differ- 
 tation that he has made upon them. Silius It aliens 
 has given us the Names of feveral Towns and Rivers 
 in the Campania Felice. 
 
 Jam verb quos dives opum , quos dives avorum , 
 
 Et toto dabat ad bellum Campania traflu ; 
 
 Duflorum adventum vicinis fedibus Ofci 
 Servabant ; Sinuejfa tepens , jiudluque fonorum 
 Vulturnum , quafque evertere filentia , Amycla, 
 Fundique et regnata Lamo Cajeta , domufque 
 Antiphata comprejfa freto , ftagnifque paluftre 
 Linternum , et quondam fatorum confcia Cuma> 
 
 Illic Nuceria , et Gaurus navalibus apta , 
 
 Prole Dichar chad multo cum milite^ Graia 
 Illic Parthenope , et Pceno non pervia Nola , 
 
 Alliphe , et Clanio contemta femper Acerra. 
 
 Sarrajles etiam populos toiafque videres 
 Sami mitis opes: illic quos fulphure pingues 
 Phlegrai legere fmus , HAifenus et ardens 
 Ore gigantao fedes Ithacefia , Baja , 
 
 Non Prochyte , non ardentem fortita Typhaea 
 Inarime , non antiqui faxofa Telonis 
 Infula , nec parvis aberat Calatia muris , 
 
 Surrentum , pauper fulci Cerealis Avella , 
 
 In primis Capua , rebus Jervare fecund: s 
 
 Inconfulta modum , <?/ pravo peritura tumore. 
 
 N A PIES. 
 
Y firft Days at Naples were taken up 
 with the Sight of Proceflions, which 
 are always very magnificent in the 
 Holy-Week. It would be tedious 
 to give an Account of the feveral Re- 
 prefentations of our Saviour’s Death 
 and Refurre&ion, of the Figures of himfelf, the 
 blefted Virgin, and the Apoftles, which are carry’d 
 up and down on this Occafion, with the cruel Penan- 
 ces that feveral inflift on themfelves, and the mul- 
 titude of Ceremonies that attend thefe Solemnities. 
 I law, at the fame time, a very fplendid Procef- 
 fion for the Acceffion of the Duke of Anjou to the 
 Crown of Spain , in which the Vice-Roy bore his 
 Part at the Left Hand of Cardinal Cantelmi. 
 To grace the Parade, they expos’d at the fame 
 time, the Blood of St. 'Januarius , which liquefy’d 
 at the Approach of the Saint’s Head, tho’, as they 
 fay, it was hard congeal’d before. I had twice an 
 Opportunity of feeing the Operation of this pre- 
 tended Miracle, and muft confefs I think it fo far 
 from being a real Miracle, that I look upon it as 
 one of the moft bungling Tricks that I ever faw: 
 Yet it is this that makes as great a Noife as any in 
 the Roman Church* and that Monfieur Pafchal 
 has hinted at among the reft, in his Marks of the 
 true Religion. The modern Neapolitans feem to 
 
 have 
 
120 NAPLES. 
 
 have copv’d it out from one, which was fhewn in 
 a Town of the Kingdom of Naples , as long ago 
 as in Horace's Time. 
 
 Dehinc Gnaiia lymphis 
 
 Iratis extruffa dedlt rij'ufque jocofque , 
 
 Dum , Jiammd fine, thura liquefcere limine Sacro 
 Perfuadere cupit : crcdat Judceus apella , 
 
 Non ego , L. i. Sat. 5. 
 
 At Gnatia next arriv’d, we laugh’d to fee 
 The fuperftitious Croud’s Simplicity, 
 
 ‘That in the facred Temple needs would try ^ 
 Without a Fire th’unheated Gums to fry ; C 
 
 Eelieve who will the folemn Sham, not I. 3 
 
 One may fee at lead: that the heathen Priefthood 
 had the fame kind of Secret among them, of which 
 the Roman Catholicks are now Matters. 
 
 I mutt confefs, tho’ I had liv’d above a Year in a 
 Roman Catholick Country, I was furpriz’d to fee 
 many Ceremonies and Superftitions in Naples , that 
 are not fo much as thought of in France. But as it is 
 certain there has been a kind of fecret Reformation 
 made, tho’ not publickly own’d, in the Roman 
 Catholick Church, fince the fpreading of the Pro- 
 teftant Religion, fo we find the feveral Nations 
 are recover’d out of their. Ignorance, in proportion 
 as they converfe more or lefs with thofe of the Re- 
 form’d Churches. For this Reafon the French are 
 much more enlighten’d than the Spaniards ox Italians , 
 on occafion of their frequent Controverttes with the 
 Huguenots ; and we find many of the Roman Catho- 
 lick Gentlemen of our own Country, who will not 
 flick to laugh at the Superftitions they fometimes 
 meet with in other Nations. 
 
 I fhall 
 
12 1 
 
 N A P L E S. 
 
 I fhall not be particular in dcfcribing the Gran- 
 deur of the City of Naples , the Beauty of its Pave- 
 ment, the Regularity of its Buildings, the Magni- 
 ficence of its Churches and Convents, the Multi- 
 tude of its Inhabitants, or the Delightfulnefs of its 
 Situation, which fo many others have done with a 
 great deal of Leifure and Exadfnefs. If a War 
 fhould break out, the Town has reafon to appre- 
 hend the exacting of a large Contribution, or a 
 Bombardment. It has but leven Gallies, a Mole, 
 and two little Caftles, which are capable of hin- 
 dering an Enemy’s Approaches. Befides that the 
 Sea which lies near it is not fubjedl to Storms, 
 has no fenfible Flux and Reflux, and is fo deep 
 that a Veflel of Burden may come up to the very 
 Mole. The Houfes are flat-roof’d to walk up- 
 on, fo that every Bomb that fell on them would 
 take Effedt. 
 
 Pidlures, Statues, and Pieces of Antiquity are not 
 fo common at Naples , as one might expect in fo 
 great and ancient a City of Italy ; for the Vice- 
 Roys take care to fend into Spain every thing that 
 is valuable of this nature. Two of their fined 
 modern Statues are thofe of Apollo and Minerva , 
 plac’d on each fide of Sannazar ins’s Tomb. On 
 the Face of this Monument, which is all of Mar- 
 ble, and very neatly wrought, is reprefented, in 
 Bas Relief. \ Neptune among the Satyrs, to fhow 
 that this Poet was the Inventor of Pifcatory Ec- 
 logues. I remember Hugo Grotius deferibes him- 
 felf in one of his Poems , as the firft that brought 
 the Mufes to the Sea-fide, but he mud be under- 
 flood only of the Poets of his own Country. I here 
 faw the Temple that Sa nnazarius mentions in his 
 Invocation of the blefled Virgin, at the beginning 
 
322 NAP L E S. 
 
 of his De partu Virginis , which was all rais’d at 
 his own Expence. 
 
 A Yiveis fibi fi folennia templis _ 
 
 Seria damns ; fi manfuras tibi ponrnus aras 
 Exctfo in fcopulo, fiudtus unde aurea cams 
 Defpkiens celfo de culmine Mergilline 
 MolliU nautifque procul venicntibus offert ; 
 
 "T u vatem ignarumque vice infueiumque labor i 
 Diva mone — * — ~ L. I . 
 
 Thou bright Celeftial Goddefs, if to Thee 
 An acceptable Temple I eredt, 
 
 With faireft Flow’rs and frefheft Garlands deck’d. 
 On tow’ring Rocks, whence Mergilline fpies 
 The ruffied~Deep in Storms and Tempefis rife ; 
 Guide thou the Pious Poet, nor refufe 
 Thine own propitious Aid to his unpradtis’d Mufe. 
 
 There are feveral very delightful Profpe&s about 
 Naples , efpecially from fome of the Religious Hou- 
 fes ; for one feldom finds in Italy a Spot of Ground 
 more agreeable than ordinary, that is _ not cover’d 
 with a Convent. The Cupolas of this City, tho 
 there are many of them, don t appear to the bed 
 Advantage when one furveys them at a difiance, as 
 beinf generally too high and narrow. The IVlaicjuifs 
 of' Medina Sidonia , in his Vice-Royalty, made the 
 Shell of a Houfe, which he had not time to findh, 
 that commands a. View of the whole Bay, and would 
 have been a very noble Building had he brought it 
 
 to Perfedbion. ... 
 
 It hands fo on the fide of a Mountain that it 
 would have had a Garden to every Story, by the 
 help of a Bridge which was to have been laid over 
 each Garden. 
 
NAPLES. 123 
 
 1 he Bay of Naples is the moft delightful one 
 that I ever law. It lies in almoft a round Figure 
 jf about thirty Miles in the Diameter. Three 
 Parts of it are fhelter’d with a noble Circuit of 
 Woods and Mountains. The high Promontory 
 of Surrentum divides it from the Bay of Salernum. 
 Between the utmoft Point of this Promontory* 
 and the Ifle of Caprea , the Sea enters by a Strait 
 of about three Miles wide. This Ifland Hands as 
 a vaft Mole, which feems to have been planted 
 there on purpofe to break the Violence of the 
 Waves that run into the Bay. It lies longways, al- 
 moft in a parallel- Line to Naples. The exceffive 
 height of its Rocks fecures a great part of the Bay 
 from Winds and Waves, which enter again between 
 the other End of this Bland and the “Promontory 
 of Mifeno. The Bay of Naples is call’d the Cra- 
 ter by the old Geographers, probably from this its 
 Refemblance to a round Bowl half fill’d with Li- 
 quor. Perhaps Virgil , who compos’d here a great 
 part of his jEneids, took from hence the Plan of 
 that beautiful Harbour, which he has made in his 
 firft Book, for the Libyan Port is but the Neapoli- 
 tan Bay in little. r 
 
 Eft in feceffu longo locus. Injicla porturii 
 Ejficit obje&u later um, quibus omnis ab alto 
 Erangitur , inque finus fcind.it fefe unda redact os i 
 Hinc atque bine vajlce rupes geminique minantu? 
 
 In caelum fcopuli , quorum fib ver tic e laCe 
 JEquora tuta filent j turn Silvis Scena corufcis 
 Defuper , horrentique atrurn nemus imminet umbrd, 
 
 1 ^Tneid. 
 
 F 2 
 
 With- 
 
i *24 Id A P L E S. 
 
 Within a long Recefs there lies a Bay, 
 
 An Ifiand fhades it from the rolling Sea, 
 
 And forms a Port fecure for Ships to ride. 1 
 
 Broke by the jutting Land on either fide, f 
 
 In double Streams the briny Waters glide j 
 
 Between two Rows of Rocks : a Silvan Scene 
 Appears above, and Groves for ever Green. 
 
 Dry den. 
 
 Naples ftands in the Bofom of this Bay, and has 
 the pleafanteft Situation in the World, tho’ by reafon 
 of its Weftern Mountains, it wants an Advantage 
 Vitruvius would have to the Front of his Palace, of 
 feeing the fetting Sun. 
 
 One would wonder how the Spaniards , who have j 
 but very few Forces in the Kingdom of Naples , ' 
 fhould be able to keep a People from Revolting, 
 that has been famous for its Mutinies and Sedi- j 
 tions in former Ages. But they have fo well j 
 contriv’d it, that tho’ the Subjects are miferably j 
 harrafs’d and opprefs’d, the greatefl of their ^ Op- 
 preliors are thofe of their own Body/ I fhall not 
 mention any thing of the Clergy, who are fuffi- 
 ciently reproached in moft Itineraries for the uni- 
 verfal Poverty that one meets with in this noble 
 and plentiful Kingdom. A great Part of the Peo- . 
 pie is in a State of VafTalage to the Barons, who 
 are the harfheft Tyrants in the World to thofe 
 that are under them. The VafTals indeed are 
 allow’d, and invited to bring in their Com- ; 
 plaints and Appeals to the Vice-Roy, who, to 
 foment Divifrons, and gain the Hearts of the 
 Populace, does not flick at imprifoning and chaf- 
 tifing their Matters very feverely on Occafon. 
 
 
 
Naples: t25 
 
 i he Subjects of the Crown are notwith {landing 
 much more rich and happy than the Vaflals of 
 the Barons. Infomuch that when the Kino- has 
 been upon the point of felling a Town to one of 
 ms Barons, the Inhabitants have rais’d the Sum. 
 upon themfelves, and prefented it to the Kino- 
 mat they might keep out of fo infupportable ^a 
 Slavery. Another way the Spaniards have taken 
 to grind the Neapolitans , and yet to take off the 
 Odium from themfelves, has been by eredling 
 feveral Courts of Juftice, with a verv fmall Pen- 
 non for fuch as fit at the Head of them, fo that 
 they are tempted to take Bribes, keep Caufes un- 
 decided, encourage Law-fuits, and do all they can 
 to . the People, that they may have where- 
 
 withal to fupport their own Dignity. It is incre- 
 vubie how great a .Multitude of Retainers to the 
 iuu.N thet e are at Naples. It is commonly faid, 
 that when Innocent the Eleventh had defir’d the 
 avlaiquiis of Carpio to furnifh him with thirty 
 thoufand Dead of Swons, the fV/Lmuils ? ^ ^ 
 
 him, that 101 his Swine he cou’d not fpare them 
 but if his Holinefs had occafion for thirty thou- 
 fand Lawyers he had them at his Service . 7 Thefe 
 Gentlemen find a continual Employ for the fiery 
 } em P er . the Neapolitans , and hinder them 
 worn uniting in fuch common Friendfhips and 
 Alliances as might endanger the Safety of- the 
 Government. There are very few Pbrfons of 
 Confideration who have not a Caufe depending; 
 for when a Neapolitan Cavalier has nothing elfe to do, 
 he gravely flints himfelf up in his Clofet, and 
 lulls a tumbling over his Papers, to fee if he can 
 Ant a Law-Suit, and plague any of his Neigh- 
 I 1 .1 hours. 
 
126 
 
 NAPLES . 
 
 bours. So much is the Genius of this People 
 chang’d fince Statius's Time. 
 
 Nulla foro rabies , out ft rifles Jurgia 'Legist 
 Morum jura <viris folum & fine fafcibus Mquum. 
 
 . oil. L. 3 » 
 
 By Love of Risht and Native Juftice led, 
 
 In the ftraight Paths of Equity they tread ; 
 
 Nor know the Bar, nor fear the Judge’s Frown, 
 Unpra&is’d in the Wranglings of the Gown. 
 
 There is another Cijrcumftance which makes 
 the Neapolitans , in a very particular manner, the 
 Opprefibrs of each other. The Gabels of A ap- 
 ples are very high on Oil, Wine, Tobacco, and 
 indeed on almoft every thing that can be eaten, 
 drank or worn. There would have been one on 
 Fruit, had not Mafia niello's Rebellion abolilh’d it, 
 as it has probably put aftop to many others. What 
 makes thefe Imports more intolerable to the poorer 
 fort, they are laid on all Butchers Meat, while 
 at the fame time the Fowl and Gibbier are Tax 
 free. Befides, all Meat being taxed equally by the 
 Pound, it happens that the Duty lies heavieft on 
 the coarfer Sorts, which are moft likely to fall to 
 the (hare of the common People, io that iseel 
 perhaps pays a Third, and Veal a Tenth of its 
 Price to the Government, a Pound of either Sort 
 having the fame Tax fix’d on it. Thefe Gabels 
 are moft of them at prefent in the. Hands of pri- 
 vate Men ; for as the King of Spain . has had oc- 
 cafion for Money he has borrow’d it of the rich 
 Neapolitans , on condition that they fhould receive 
 the intereft out of fuch or fuch Gabels till he 
 could repay them the Principal. 
 
NAPLES. 127 
 
 This he has repeated fo often that at prefent 
 there is fcarce a fingle Gabel unmortgag’d ; fo 
 that tnere is no Place in Europe which pays greater 
 Paxes, and at the fame time no Prince who draws 
 lefs Advantage from diem. In other Countries the 
 People have the Satisfaction of feeing the Money' 
 they give fpent in the Neceffities, Defence, or Or- 
 nament of their State, or at lead: in the Vanity or 
 Pleafures of their Prince : but here mod of it goes 
 to the enriching of their Fellow- Subjects. If there 
 was not fo great a Plenty of every thing in Naples 
 the People could not bear it. The Spaniard how- 
 ever reaps this Advantage from the prefent podure 
 of Affairs, that the Murmurs of the People are 
 turn’d upon their own Countrymen, and what is- 
 more confiderable, that almod all the Perfons, of 
 tire greated Wealth and Power in Naples , are en- 
 gag’d by their own Intereds to pay thefe Impoffti- 
 ons chearfully, and to fupport the Government 
 which has laid them on. For this Reafon, tho’ the 
 poorer fort are for the Emperor, few of the Perfons 
 of Confequence can endure to think of a Change’ 
 in their prefent Edablifhment ; tho’ there is no 
 quedion but the King of Spain vvill Reform mod 
 of thefe Abufes, by breaking or retrenching the 
 Power of the Barons, by cancelling feveral unne- 
 cessary Employs, or by ranfoming or taking the Ga- 
 bels into his own Hands. I have been told too there 
 is a Law of Charles the f i Pth fomething like our 
 Statute of Mortmain, which has laid dormant ever 
 ffnce his I ime, and will probably have new 
 Life put into it under the Reign of an adffive Prince. 
 Fhe Inhabitants of Naples have been always very 
 notorious for leading a Life of Lazinefs and Plea- 
 lure, which I take to arife partly out of the won- 
 I' 4 derful 
 
128 N A P L E S. 
 
 derful Plenty of their Country, that does not make 
 Labour fo neceflary to them, and partly out of the 
 Temper of their Climate, that relaxes the t ibres 
 of their Bodies, and difpofes the Peopie to men an 
 idle indolent Humour. Whatever it proceeds from, 
 we find they were formerly as famous ior it as 
 
 thev are at prefent. . 
 
 This Wfis perhaps the Reafon that the Antients . 
 tell us one of the Sirens was bury’d in this City, 
 which thence receiv’d the Name of Partbenope. 
 
 — Improba Siren 
 
 Defidia — • Hor, Sat. 3 - L- z * 
 
 Sloth, the deluding Siren of the Mind. 
 
 Et in Otia natam 
 
 Parthenopen Ov. Met. L. 15* 
 
 - — Oiiofa Neapolis. H. Ep. 5. 
 
 Partbenope , for idle Hours defign’d. 
 
 To Luxury and Eafe unbinds the Mind. 
 
 Partbenope non dives opum , non fpreta vigoris. 
 
 Pd am moiles Urbi ritus , atque hojpiia M.ujis 
 Otia , et exemption curis gravioribus avum. 
 
 Sirenum dedit una funm et memorabile nomen 
 Partbenope muris Acheloias , aquo ,r e cujus 
 Regnavere diu cantus , cum dulce per undas 
 Exitium miferis caneret non profptra Nautis. 
 
 J e:i T* r t-t 
 
 Elere wanton Naples crowns the happy Shore, 
 Nor vainly rich, nor defpicably poor 5 
 
129 
 
 N A P L E S. 
 
 The Town in foft Solemnities delights. 
 
 And gentle Poets to her Arms invites ; 
 
 The People, free from Cares, ferene and gay 
 Pafs all their mild untroubled Hours away. 
 Partbenope the rifing City nam’d 
 A Siren , for her Songs and Beauty fam’d. 
 
 That oft had drown’d among the neighb’ring Seas 
 The lift’ning Wretch, and made Dell ruction pleafe. 
 
 Has ego te fedes ( nam nec rnihi barhara Thrace ■ 
 Ncc Li'oye natale Jblum ) transfer re labor o : 
 
 £hias et mollis bye ms et frigida temper at csjias , 
 Efuas imbelle fretum torpentibus aUv.it undis : 
 
 Pax fecura locis , et defidis Otia vitce , 
 
 Et nunquam turbata quies , fomnique peraSti : 
 
 Nulla foro rabies , &c. Stat. Sil. L. 3. 
 
 Thefe are the gentle Seats that I propofe ; 
 
 For not cold Scythia's undifiolving Snows, 
 
 Nor the parch’d* Libyan Sands thy Husband bore. 
 
 But mild Parthcnope’ s delightful Shore, 
 
 -Where Jiufli’d in Calms the bord’ring Ocean laves 
 Her filent Coaft, and rolls in languid Waves ; 
 Refrefhing Winds the Summer’s Heats affwage ; 
 
 And kindly Warmth difarms the Winter’s Rage; 
 Remov’d from Node and the tumultuous War, 1 
 Soft Sleep and downy Eafe inhabit there, C 
 
 r And Dreams unbroken with intruding Care. ) 
 
THE 
 
 ANTIQUITIES 
 
 AND 
 
 Natural Curiolities 
 
 That lie near the 
 
 City of Naples. 
 
 T. about eight Miles Diftance from 
 Naples lies a very noble Scene of An- 
 tiquities^ What they call Virgil’s 
 Tomb is the firft that one meets 
 with on the Way thither. It is certain 
 this Poet was bury’d at Naples , but I 
 think it isalmoft as certain that his Tomb flood on 
 the^ other fide of the Town which looks towards 
 V efuvio. By this Tomb is the Entry into the Grot- 
 to of Paufilypo. The common People of Naples 
 believe it to have been wrought by Magick, and 
 that V irgil was the Magician ; who is in greater 
 Repute among the Neapolitans for having made the 
 Giotto, than the Mneid . . 
 
 If 
 
Antiquities, &c. 131 
 
 If a Man would form to himfelf a juft Idea of 
 this Place, he muft fanfy a vaft Rock undermin’d 
 from one End to the other, and a Highway, running 
 thro’ it, near as long and as broad as the Mall in 
 St. ‘James’ s Park. This Subterraneous Pad age is 
 much mended fmce Seneca gave fo bad a Cha- 
 racter of it. The Entry at both Ends is higher 
 than the middle Parts of it, and finks by degrees 
 to fling in more Light upon the reft. Towards 
 the middle are two large Funnels, bor’d thro’ 
 the Roof of the Grotto, to let in Light and frefh 
 Air. 
 
 There are no where about the Mountain any 
 vaft Heaps of Stones, tho’ it is certain the great 
 Quantities of ’em that are dug out of the Rock 
 could not eafily conceal themfelves, had they not 
 probably been confum’d in the Moles and Build- 
 ings of Naples. This confirm’d me in a con- 
 je&ure which I made at the firft fight of this Sub- 
 terraneous Paflage, that it was not at firft defign’d 
 fo much for a High-way as for a Quarry of Stone, 
 but that the Inhabitants, finding a double Advan- 
 tage by it, hew’d it into the Form we now fee. 
 Perhaps the fame Defign gave the Original to the 
 Sibyl’s Grotto, confidering the prodigious Multitude 
 of Palaces that flood in its Neighbourhood. 
 
 I remember when I was at Chateaudun in 
 France I met with a very curious Perfon, a Mem- 
 ber of one of the German Univerfities. He had 
 flay’d a Day or two in the Town longer than or- 
 dinary, to take the Meafures of feveral empty 
 Spaces that had been cut in the Sides of a neigh- 
 bouring Mountain. Some of ’em were fupported 
 with Pillars form’d out of the Rock, fome were 
 made in the Fafhion of Galleries, and fome not 
 
 unlike 
 
132 Antiquities and Curiofities 
 
 unlike Amphitheatres. The Gentleman had made 
 to himfelf feveral ingenious Hypothefes concern- 
 ing the ufe of thefe fubterraneous Apartments, 
 and from thence collefted the vaff Magnificence 
 and Luxury of the ancient Chateaudunois. But 
 upon communicating his Thoughts on this Subject 
 to one of the mofi learned of the Place, he was 
 not a little furpriz’d to hear that thefe ftupendous 
 Works of Art were only fo many Quarries of 
 Free-Stone, that had been wrought into different 
 Figures, according as the Veins of it directed the 
 Workmen. 
 
 About five Miles from the Grotto of Paufilypo , 
 lie the Remains of Puteoli and Baice , in a foft 
 Air and a delicious Situation. 
 
 The Country about ’em, by reafon of its vaff: 
 Caverns and Subterraneous Fires, has been mifera- 
 bly torn in Pieces by Earthquakes, fo that the whole 
 Face of it is quite chang’d from what it was for- 
 merly. The Sea has overwhelm’d a Multitude of 
 Palaces, which may be feen at the Bottom of the 
 Water in a calm Day. 
 
 The Lucrine Lake is but a Puddle in com- 
 parifon of what it once was, its Springs having 
 been funk in an Earthquake, or flopp’d up by 
 Mountains that have fallen upon ’em. The Lake 
 of Avernus , formerly fo famous for its Streams 
 of Poifon, is now plentifully flock’d with Fifh 
 and Fowl. Mount Gaurus , from one of the 
 fruitfulleff Parts in Italy, is become one of the 
 moil barren. Several Fields, which were laid 
 out in beautiful Groves and Gardens, are now 
 naked Plains, fmoaking with Sulphur, or en- 
 cumber’d with Hills that have been thrown up by 
 Eruptions of Fire. The Works of Art lie in no 
 
near the City of Naples. 23 3 
 
 lefs Diforder than thofe of Nature, for that which 
 was once the moft beautiful Spot of Italy, cover’d 
 with Temples and Palaces, adorn’d by the greateft 
 cf the Roman Commonwealth, embellifh’d by many 
 of the R oman Emperors, and celebrated by the beft 
 of their Poets, j has now nothing to {hew but the 
 .Ruins of its ancient Splendor, and a great Map-nifi- 
 cence in Confufion. 
 
 The Mole of Puteoli has been miftaken by fe- 
 veral Authors for Caligula's Bridge. They have all 
 been led into this Error from the Make of it, becaufe 
 it {lands on Arches. But to pafs over the many Ar- 
 guments that may be brought againft this Opinion, 
 I fhall here take away the Foundation of it, by fet- 
 ting down an Infcription mention’d b y Julius Ca~ 
 pitolinus in the Life of Antoninus Pius , who was the 
 Repairer of this Mole. Imp. Cevfari, Divi Hadri- 
 ani filio , Divi Trajani , Parthici , Nepoti , Divi 
 Nerves pronepoti , T. Alt. Hadriano Antonino An*. 
 Pio , &c. quod fuper cat era beneficia ad bujus etiam 
 tutelam port us. Pilar um viginti molem cum fumptu 
 fornicum r eli quo ex Mrario fuo largitus eft. 
 
 It would have been very difficult to have made 
 fuch a Mole as this of Puteoli , in a Place where 
 they had not fo natural a Commodity as the Earth 
 of Puzzuola, which immediately hardens in the 
 Water, and after a little lying in it looks rather 
 like Stone than Mortar. It was this that gave the 
 ancient Romans an Opportunity of making^fo ma- 
 ny Encroachments on the Sea, and of laying the 
 Foundations of their Villas and Palaces within the 
 very Borders or it, as || Horace has elegantly de- 
 ferred it more than once. J 
 
 L, 2, O, is, L. 3. O. j, L. 3. O. 24. Epift. L. i. 
 
 About 
 
*34 Antiquities and Curio fities 
 
 About four Years ago they dug up a a grea 
 of Marble near Puzzuola , with feveral Fig 
 Letters engraven round it, which have gi 
 fion to fome Difputes among the Antiquaries. 
 
 they all agree that it is the Pedeftal of a Statue er 
 
 to Tiberius by the fourteen Cities of Aft a , which were 
 flung down by an Earthquake ; the fame that, ac- 
 cording to the Opinion of many learned Men, 
 pen’d at our Saviour’s Crucifixion. They 
 •found in the Letters, which are ftill legible, the 
 Names of the feveral Cities, and difcover in 
 Figure fomething particular to the City, of which 
 it reprefents the Genius. There are two Medals of 
 Tiberius ftamp’d on the fame Occafion, with this 
 Infcription to one of them, Civitatibus Afue Rejii- 
 tutis. The Emperor is reprefented in both fitting, 
 with a Patera in one Hand, and a Spear in the 
 other. 
 
 * Vid. Gionovium, Fabretti, Bulifon. &c. 
 
 i 
 
near the City of Na ples. 
 
 It is probable this might have been the Pofture 
 of the Statue, which in all likelihood does not lie 
 far from the Place where they took up the Pedeftal ; 
 for they fay there were other great Pieces of Mar- 
 ble near it, and feveral of ’em infcrib’d, but that 
 no Body would be at the Charges of bringing them 
 to light. ^ The Pedeftal it felf lay negle&ed in an 
 open I'ie:d when I faw it. I fhall not be particu- 
 lar on the Ruins of the Amphitheatre, the ancient 
 Reservoirs of Water, the Sibyl’s Grotto, the Centum 
 Camera, the oepulchre o i Aggrlpina, Nero’s IVIother, 
 with feveral other Antiquities of lefs Note, that lie 
 m the iye;g' bourhood of this Bay, and have been 
 oiten defcrib d by many others. I muft confefs, af- 
 ter having furvey’d the Antiquities about Naples 
 and Rome, I cannot but think that our Admirati- 
 on of ’em does not fo much arife out of their Great- 
 ness as Uncommon neis. 
 
 I here are indeed many extraordinary but 
 
 1 believe a Traveller would not be a fo- 
 
 nt ll *d 
 
136 Antiquities and Curiofities ■ 
 
 nifh’d at ’em, did he find any Works of the fame 
 kind in his own Country. Amphitheatres, Tri- 
 umphal Arches, Baths, Grottoes, Catacombs, Ro- 
 tunda’s, Highways pav’d for fo great a Length, 
 Bridges of inch an amazing Height, Subterraneous 
 Buildings for the Reception of Ram and Snow- 
 Water,' °are moil of ’em at prefent out of Fafliion, 
 and only to be met with among the- Antiquities 
 of Italy '. We are therefore immediately furpriz’d 
 when we fee any confiderable Sums laid out in 
 any thing of this nature, tho’ at the fame time 
 there is many a Gothic Cathedral in England , that 
 has cofl more Pains and Money than feveral of thefe 
 celebrated Works. Among the Ruins of the old 
 Heathen Temples they fhew’d me "what they call 
 the Chamber of Venus, which Hands a little be- 
 hind her Temnle. It is wholly dark, and has fe- 
 veral Figures ‘on the Cieling wrought in Stucco, 
 that feem to reprefent Lull and Strength by the 
 Emblems of naked Jupiter s and Gladiators, Tri- 
 tons, and Centaurs, ‘&c. fo that one would guefs 
 it has formerly been the Scene of many lewd My- 
 fteries. On the other fide of Naples are the Cata- 
 combs. Thefe muft have been full of Stench 
 and Loathfomnefs, if the dead Bodies that lay in 
 ’em were left to rot in open Niches, as an Emi- 
 nent' Author of our own Country imagines. But 
 upon examining ’em I find they were each of ’em 
 Hopp’d up: without doubt, as foon as the Corps 
 was laid in it. For at the Mouth of the Nich 
 one always finds the Rock cut into little Channels, 
 to faHen the Board or Marble that .was to clofe it 
 up, and I think I did not fee one which had not 
 Hill feme Mortar flic, king in it. In feme I found 
 pieces of Tiles that exaftly tallied with the Chan- 
 
near the City of Naples. 337 
 
 nel, and in others a little Wall of Bricks, that 
 fometimes flopp’d up above a quarter of the Mien, 
 the reft having been broken down. St. P rocin us s 
 Sepulchre feems to have a kind of Mofaic Work on 
 its Covering, for I obferv’d at one End ox it ieve- 
 ral little Pieces of Marble ranged together aster that 
 manner. ’Tis probable they were adorn’d, more 
 or lefs, according to the Quality or the Dead. One 
 would indeed wonder to find fuch a Multitude ot 
 Niches unftopp’d, and I can’t imagine' any body 
 fhould take the Pains to do it, who was not in queit 
 of fome fuppos’d Tt realure. 
 
 Baits was the Winter Retreat of the old Romans , 
 that being the proper Seafon to enjoy the Baiam 
 Sola, and the Mollis Lucrinus ; as on the contrary, 
 Tibur, Tufculum , Prenejle , Alba , Cajeta, Mans Lir- 
 ceius , Anxur, and the like airy Mountains andrro- 
 montories, were their Retirements during the Meats 
 of Summer. 
 
 Dum nos blanda tenent jucundi Stagna Lucrlnl , 
 
 Et qua pumiceis fontibus antra calent , 
 
 En colls Argivl regnum , Faujiine, coloni, J 
 Qyd te bis decimus ducit ab urbe lapis. 
 
 Horrida fed fervent Nemeai pedtora monjlri : 
 
 Nec fatis eft Baias igne calere fuo. 
 
 Ergo Sacri fontis , et littora Sacra valete. 
 
 Nymph arum pari ter, Nereidumque domus . 
 Herculeos codes gelida vos vincite brumd , 
 
 Nunc Tiburtinis cedite frigoribus. 
 
 Mar. L. 4. Ep. 57. 
 
 While near the Lucrine Lake confum’d to Death 
 I draw the fultry Air, and gafp for Breath, 
 
 t Vid. Hor. L. 2 . Od. 6 . 
 
 Where 
 
138 Antiquities and Curiofities 
 
 Where Steams of Sulphur raife a ftifiing Heat, 
 
 And thro’ the Pores of the warm Pumice fweat ; 
 You tafte the cooling Breeze, where nearer home 
 The twentieth Pillar marks the Mile from Rome: 
 And now the Sun to the bright Lion turns, 
 
 And Bala with redoubled Fury burns ; 
 
 Then briny Seas and tafteful Springs farewel, 
 Where Fountain-Nymphs confus’d with Nereids 
 
 dwell ; 
 
 In Winter You may all the World defpife, 
 
 But now ’tis Tivoli that bear the Prize. 
 
 The Natural Curiofities about Naples are as nu- 
 . merous and extraordinary as the Artificial. I fhall 
 fet them down, as I have done the other, with- 
 out any regard to their Situation. The Grotto del 
 Cam is famous for the poifonous Steams which 
 float within a Foot of its Surface. The Sides of 
 the Grotto are mark’d with green, as high as the 
 Malignity of the Vapour reaches. The common 
 Experiments are as follow. A Dog, that has 
 his Nofe held in the Vapour, lofes all Signs of 
 Life in a very little time ; but if carry’d into the 
 open Air, or thrown into a Neighbouring Lake, 
 he immediately recovers, if he is not quite gone. 
 A Torch, Snuff and all, goes out in a Mo- 
 ment when dipp’d into the Vapour. A Piftol 
 cannot take fire in it. I fplit a Reed, and laid 
 in the Channel of it a Train of Gunpowder, fo 
 that one End of the Reed was above the Va- 
 pour, and the other at the Bottom of it ; and I 
 found, tho’ the Steam was ftrong enough to hin- 
 der a Piftol from taking fire in it, and to quench 
 a lighted Torch , that it could not intercept the 
 Train of Fire when it had once begun flafhing, 
 
 nor 
 
near the City of Naples. 13*? 
 
 nor hinder it from running to the very End. This 
 Experiment I repeated twice or thrice, to fee if I 
 could quite diffipate the Vapour, which I did in 
 fo great a meafure, that one might eaftly let oft a 
 Piftol in it. I obferv’d how long a Dog was in 
 expiring the firft time, and after his Recovery, and 
 found no fenfible difference. A Viper bore it nine 
 Minutes the firft time we put him in, and ten the 
 fecond. \Vhen we brought it out after the fin 
 Trial, it took fuch a vaft quantity of Air into its 
 Lungs, that it fwell’d almoft twice as big as be- 
 fore j and it was perhaps on this Stock of Air 
 that it liv’d a Minute longer the fecond time. 
 DoCtor Connor made a Difcourfe in one. of the 
 Academies at Rome upon the Subject of this Grot- 
 to, which he has fince Printed in England.. rR 
 attributes the Death of Animals, and the Extinc- 
 tion of Lights, to a great Rarefaction of the Air, 
 caus’d by the Heat and Eruption of the Steams. 
 But how is it poflible for thefe Steams, tho in ne- 
 ver fo great quantity, to refift the P refiu re of the 
 whole Atmofphere ? And as for the Hea.t, it is 
 but very inconfiderable. However, to fatisfy my 
 felf, I plac’d a thin Vial, well flopp’d up with 
 Wax, within the Smoke of the Vapour, which 
 would certainly have burft in an Air rarify d e- 
 nough to kill a Dog, or quench a 1 orch, but 
 nothing follow’d upon it. However, to take a- 
 way all further Doubt, I borrow’d a Weather- 
 Glafs, and fo fix’d it in the Grotto, that the Stag-' 
 num was wholly cover’d with the Vapour, but 1 
 could not perceive the Quickfilver funk after half 
 an Hour’s Handing in it. This Vapour is genera. - 
 ly fuppos’d to be Sulphureous, tho’ I can Re 
 no Reafon for fuch a Suppofition. He that dips 
 
H° Antiquities and Curiofities 
 
 his Hand in it finds no Smell that it leaves upon 
 it ; arid tho’ I put a whole Bundle of lighted 
 Brimftone Matches to the Smoke, they all went 
 out in an Inftant, as if immers’d in Water. 
 Whatever is the Compofition of the Vapour, let 
 it have but one Quality of being very glevvv or 
 various, and I believe it will mechanically folve 
 all the Phenomena of the Grotto. Its Uncftu- 
 oufnefs will make it heavy, and unfit for mount- 
 ing higher than it does, unlefs the Heat of the 
 Earth, which is juft ftrong enough to agitate, 
 and bear it up at a little diftance from tire 3 Sur- 
 face, were much greater than it is to rarify and fcat- 
 ter it. It will be too grofs and thick to keep 
 the Lungs in play for any time, fo that Animals 
 will die in it fooner or later, as their* Blood cir- 
 culates flower or vafter. hire will live in it no 
 longer than in Water, becaufe it wraps it felf in 
 the fame manner about the Flame, * and by its 
 Continuity hinders any quantity of Air and Ni- 
 tre from coming to its Succour. The Parts of 
 it however are not fo ccmpadl as theft of Li- 
 quors, nor therefore tenacious enough to inter- 
 cept the Fire that has once caught a Train of 
 Gun-Powder, for which Reafon^they may be 
 quite broken and difpers’d by the Repetition of 
 this Experiment. There is an urwftuous clammy 
 Vapour that arifes from the Stum of Grapes, when 
 they lie mafh’d together in the Vat, which puts out 
 a Light when dipp’d into it, and perhaps would 
 take away the Breath of weaker Animals, were it 
 put to the Trial. 
 
 It would be endlefs to reckon up the different 
 Baths, to be met with in a Country that fo much 
 abounds in Sulphur. There is fcarce a Difeafe 
 
 which 
 
• near the City c/' Naples. 14 1 
 
 which has net one adapted to it. A Stranger is 
 generally led into that they call Cicero’s Bath, and 
 | lev oral Voyage- Writers pretend there is a cold 
 Vapour a riling from the Bottom of it, which re- 
 frefhes thofe who ftoop into it. ’Tis true the 
 Heat is much more fupportable to one that Hoops, 
 than to one that Hands upright, becaufe .the Steams 
 of Sulphur gather in the Hollow of the Arch a- 
 bout a Man’s Head, and are therefore much thicker 
 and warmer in that Part than at the Bottom. The 
 three Lakes of Agnano , Avernus. , and the Lucrin , 
 have now nothing in them particular. The Monte 
 Novo was thrown out by an Eruption of Fire, that 
 happen’d in thd Place where the Mountain now 
 Hands. The Sulfatara is very furprifing to one 
 who has not feen Mount Vefuvio. But there is 
 nothing about Naples , nor indeed in any Part of 
 Italy, which deferves our Admiration fo much as 
 this Mountain. I mufl confefs the Idea I had of 
 it, did not anfwer the real Image of the Place 
 when I came to fee it ; I fhall therefore give the 
 Defcription of it as it then lay. 
 
 This Mountain Hands at about fix Englijh Miles 
 didance from Naples, tho’ by reafon of its height, 
 it feems much nearer to thofe that furvey it from 
 tue Town. In our Way to it we pafs’d by what 
 was one of thofe Rivers of burning Matter, that 
 ran from it in a late Eruption. This looks at a 
 diHance like new-plow’d Land, but, as you come 
 near, it you fee nothing but a long Heap of heavy 
 disjointed Clods lying one upon another. There 
 are innumerable Cavities and InterHices among 
 the feveral Pieces, fo that the Surface is all bro- 
 ken and irregular. Sometimes a great Fragment 
 Hands like a Rock above the refl, fometimes the 
 
 whole 
 
1^ 2 Antiquities and Curlojities 
 
 whole Heap lies in a kind of Channel, and in 
 other Places has nothing like Banks to confine it, 
 but rifes four or five Foot high in the open Air, j 
 without fpreading abroad on either fide. This, I 
 think, is a plain Demon fixation that thefe Rivers I 
 were not, as they are ufuaily reprefented, fo ma- I 
 ny Streams of running Matter; for how could a 
 Liquid, that lay hardening by degrees, fettle in j 
 fuch a furrow’d uncompaft Surface ? Were the j 
 River a Confufion of never fo many different Bo- j: 
 dies, if they had been all a&ually diffolv’d, they j 
 would at leaft have form’d one continu’d Cruft, 
 as we fee the Scorium of Metals always gathers 
 into a folid Piece, let it be compounded of a j 
 thoufand Heterogeneous Parts. I am apt to think 
 therefore that thefe huge unwieldy Lumps that 
 now lie one upon another, as if thrown toge- 
 ther by Accident, remain’d in the melted Matter ; 
 rigid and unliquefy’d, floating in it like Cakes of 
 Ice in a River, and that as the Fire and Ferment 
 gradually abated, they adjufted themfelves toge- i 
 ther as well as their Irregular Figures would per- 
 mit, and by this means fell into fuch an interrupt- 
 ed diforderlv Heap as we now find it. What 
 was the melted Matter lies at the Bottom out of 
 fight. After having quitted the fide of this long 
 Heap, which was once a Stream of Fire, we 
 came to the Roots of the Mountain, and had a 
 very troublefome March to gain the T. op of it. 
 
 It is cover’d on all Sides with a kind of burnt 
 Earth, very dry, and crumbled into Powder, ; 
 as if it had been artificially lifted. It is very ; 
 hot under the Feet, and mix’d with feveral burnt 
 Stones and Cakes of Cinders, which have been 
 thrown out at different times. A Man finks al- . 
 
 moft 
 
near the City of Naples. 143 
 
 molt a Foot in the Earth, and generally lofes half 
 a Step by Aiding backwards. When we had climb’d 
 this Mountain we dilcover’d the Top of it to be 
 a wide naked Plain, fmoking with Sulphur in 
 feveral Places, and probably undermin’d with P'ire, 
 for we concluded it to be hollow by the Sound 
 it made under our Feet. In the midft of this Plain 
 i Hands a high Hill in the fhape of a Sugar-loaf, 
 fo very fteep that there would be no mounting or 
 defending it, were it not made up of fuch a loofe 
 crumbled Earth as I have before defcribed. The 
 Air of this Place muft be very much impregnated 
 with Salt-petre, as appears by the Specks of it on 
 the Aides of the Mountain, where one can fcarce 
 find a Stone that has not the Top white with it. 
 After we had, with much ado, conquer’d this Hill, 
 we faw in the midft of it the prefent Mouth of 
 V efuvio , that goes {helving down on ail Aides ’till 
 above a hundred Yards deep, as near as we could 
 guefs, and has about three or four hundred in the 
 Diameter, for it feems a perfect Round. This vaft 
 Hollow is generally fill’d with Smoke, but, by 
 the Advantage of a Wind that blew for us, we 
 had a very clear and diftindt fight of it. The 
 Sides appear all over ftain’d with Mixtures of 
 White, Green, Red, and Yellow, and have feve- 
 raj Rocks {landing out of them that look like pure 
 | Brimftcne. The Bottom was entirely cover’d, and 
 tho’ we look’d very narrowly we could fee nothin^ 
 like a Hole in it ; the Smoke breaking through fe~ 
 
 , veral imperceptible Cracks in many Places. The 
 ; very Middle was firm Ground when we faw it, 
 
 ! as we concluded from the Stones we flung upon 
 ' it, and I queftion not but one might then have 
 ■crofs’d the Bottom, and have gone up on the other 
 
 fide 
 
H4 
 
 Antiquities and Curiofities 
 
 fule of it with very little Danger, unlefs hom feme 
 accidental Breath of Wind. In the late Eruptions 
 
 accidental cream v- Tn the late Erupt, c^is 
 
 this great Hollow was like a vail Cauldron fill d 
 with flowing and melted Matter, which, as it 
 boil’d over in any Part, ran down the i ides or the 
 Mountain, and made five fuch Rivers as that be- 
 fore mention’d. In proportion as the Heat flacken d, 
 this' burning Matter muft have fubfided within the 
 Bowels of the Mountain, and as it funk veiy lei- 
 finely had time to Cake together, and form the 
 Bottom which covers the Mouth 01 that dreadful j 
 Vault that lies underneath it. The next Eruption 
 or Earthquake will probably break in I leceo this 
 falfe Bottom, and quite change the preient F ace o 
 
 T Tlhs whole Mountain, fliap’d like a Sugar-loaf, 
 has been made at feveral times, by the prodigious 
 Ouamities of Earth and Cinders, which have been 
 nR rrr u0 out of the Mouth that lies in the midft 
 of then?, fo that it increafes in the Bulk at every 
 Eruption, the Aflres ftill 
 
 it like the Sand in an Hour-Glafs. A Gentleman 
 of Naples told me, that in his Memory it had jam- 
 ed twenty Foot in thicknefs, and I quemon 
 rot but in length of time it will cover the whole 
 Plain, and make one Mountain with that on which 
 
 k ^ 1 ^ Parts of the Sea, that are not far from 
 the Roots of this Mountain, they find fometim* 
 
 £ r* 
 
 ST* TUtyT St in . ajJ 
 
near • the City of Naples. 145* 
 
 warm Weather. The Agitations of the Water 
 perhaps hinder them from difcovering it at other 
 times. 
 
 Among the Natural Curiofities of Naples , I 
 cannot forbear mentioning their manner of furni- 
 ftiing the Town. with Snow, which they here ufe 
 inftead of Ice, beCaufe, as they fay, it cools or 
 congeals any Liquor fooner. There is a great 
 Quantity of it confum’d yearly, for they drink ve- 
 ry few Liquors, not fo much as Water, that have 
 r.ot lain in Frefco , and every Body, from the high- 
 eft to the loweft, makes ufe of it y infomuch that 
 a Scarcity of Snow would • raife a Mutiny at Na- 
 ples, as much as a Dearth of Com or Provifions 
 in another Country. To prevent this the King 
 has fold the Monopoly of it to certain Perfons, 
 who are oblig’d to furnifti the City with it all the 
 Year at fo much the Pound. They have a. high 
 Mountain at about eighteen Miles from the Town, 
 which has feveral Pits dug into it. Here they em- 
 ploy many poor People at fuch a feafon of the 
 A ear to roll in vaft Balls of Snow, which they 
 ram together, and cover from the Sunfhine. Out 
 of thefe Refervoirs of Snow they cut feveral 
 Lumps, as they have occafion for them, and fend 
 them on Aftes to the Sea-ftde, where they are car- 
 ry ’d off in Boats, and diftributed to feveral Shops 
 at a fettled Price, that from time to time fupply 
 the whole City of Naples. While the Banditti 
 continu’d their Difqrders in this Kingdom, they 
 often put .the 'Snow-Merchants under Contributi- 
 on, and threaten’d them, if they appear’d tardy in 
 their Payments, to deftroy their Magazines, which 
 they fay might eafily have been effefted by the Infuii- 
 on of fome Barrels of Oil. 
 
 G 
 
 It 
 
14-6 Antiquities and Curiofities 
 
 It would - have been tedious to have put down the 
 many Defcriptions that the Latin Poets have made 
 oHeveral of the. .Places mention’d in this Chapter: 
 
 I (hall therefore conclude it with the general Map 
 which Si Hus Italicus has given us of this great Bay 
 of Maples. Molt of the Places he mentions he 
 within the fame Profpeft, and if I have pafs’d over * 
 any of them, it is becaufe I fhall take them in my 
 way by Sea, from Naples to Rome. ■ . 
 
 St a^na inter celebrem nunc mitia tnonjlrat Avernum ; 
 
 Turn trijii nemore atque umbris nigr antibus barrens^ 
 
 Et formidatus volucri , lethale vomcbat 
 Suffufo virus ccelo, Stygidque per urbes 
 Religione facer , fasvum retinebat honorem. 
 
 Mine vtcina palus , fama ejl Achei on: ls ad undas 
 Pander e iter , cascas Jlagnanie v or agin e fauces 
 Eaxat , et horrcndos aperit telluris hiatus , 
 
 Interdumque novo perturbat liumne manes. 
 
 Auxta caligante fitu , longumque per ovum 
 Infernis preffas n ebuh s , pallente fub uvibt u 
 Cimmerias jacuiffe domos, noSiemque profundam 
 E art arc as narrant urbis : turn fulfure et igni 
 Semper anhelantes , coftoque bitumine campos 
 OJlentant : tellus atro exundante vapor e 
 Sufpirans , ujlifque diu calefoM a medullis 
 /Eftuat , et Stygios exhalat in aera flatus : 
 
 Parturit , et tremulis jnetuendum exfibilat antris , 
 Interdumque cavas lufiatus rumperefed.es , 
 
 Aut exire for as , fonitu lugubre minaci 
 Mulciber immugit , lacerataqiie vifcera terra 
 Mandit , et exefos lab efa flat murmure montes. 
 
 Tradunt Herculed projhatos mole Gigantes 
 Tellurem injettam quatere , et fpir amine anhelt 
 Torreri late campos , quotiefque minantur 
 Rumpere compagem impofitam , expallefcere caelum. 
 
near the City of Naples. 147 
 
 Apparet procul .Inarime , qua turbine nigra 
 Fumantem premiit Iapetum , fammafque rebelli 
 Ora ejePiantem ,. et fiquando evadere detur 
 Bella Jovi rurjfus fuperifque iterare volentem. 
 Monjlrantur Vtefeva juga, Iquc in vertice fu?nms 
 Depajli jlammir fcopuli , fre.Slufque ruind 
 Mans circuin , a tque /Etna: fatis certantia Saxa. 
 Nsc non Mifcnnnn fervantem Idcea Jepulcro 
 Nomina, et Hcrculeos ridet ipfo littore Baulos . 
 
 L. 12, 
 
 Black with furrounding Forefts then it flood. 
 
 That hung above, and darken’d all the Flood : 
 Clouds of unwholefome Vapours, rais’d on high, 
 The flutt’ring Bird entangled in the Sky, 
 
 Whilft all around the gloomy Profpedt fpread 
 An awful Horror, and religious Dread. 
 
 Hence to the Borders of the Marfh they go. 
 
 That mingles with the baleful Streams below. 
 
 And fometimes with a mighty Yawn, ’tis faid, 
 Opens a difmal Pafiage to the Dead, 
 
 Who pale with Fear the rending Earth furvey. 
 
 And llartle at the fudden Flafh of Day. 
 
 The dark Cimmerian Grotto then he paints, 
 Defcribing all its old Inhabitants, 
 
 That in the deep Infernal City dwell’d, 
 
 And lay in everlafling Night conceal’d. 
 
 Advancing Ml, the fpacious Fields he fhow’d, 
 
 That with the fmother’d Heat of Brimftone glow’d ; 
 Through frequent Cracks the fleaming Sulphur 
 broke, 
 
 And cover’d all the blafted Plain with Smoke: 
 Imprifon’d Fires, in the clofe Dungeons pent. 
 
 Roar to get loofe, and ftruggle for a Vent, 
 
 G z Eating 
 
 Averno next he fhow’d his. wond’ring Gueft, 
 Averno now with milder Virtues blefs’d : 
 
148 Antiquities , &c. 
 
 Eating their Way, and undermining all, 
 
 "Till with a mighty Burft whole Mountains fall. 
 Here, as ’tis laid, the Rebel Giants lie, 
 
 And, when to move th’ incumbent Load they try. 
 Amending Vapours on the Day prevail, 
 
 The Sun looks fickly, and the Skies grow pale. 
 Next to the diftant Ifle his Sight he turns, 
 
 That o’er the Thunderftruck Tiphceus burns : 
 Enrag’d, his wide-extended Jaws expire. 
 
 In angry Whirlwinds, Blafphemies and Fire, 
 Threatening, if loofen’d from his dire Abodes, 
 Again to challenge Jove , and fight the Gods. 
 
 On Mount Vejuvio next he fixt his Eyes, 
 
 And faw the fmoking Tops confus’dly rife ; 
 
 (A hideous Ruin !) that with Earthquakes rent 
 A fecond ALtna to the View prefent. 
 
 Mtfent? s Cape and Baull laft he view’d, 
 
 That on the Sea’s extreme!! Borders flood. 
 
 Si lias Italicus here takes notice, that the p'oifo- 
 jious Vapours which , arofe from the Lake Averno 
 in Hannibal's Time, were quite difpers’d at the time 
 when he wrote his Poem ; becaufe Agrippa , who 
 liv’d between Hannibal and Silius, had cut down the 
 Woods that enclos’d the Lake, and hinder’d thefe 
 noxious Steams from diflipating, which were imme- 
 diately fcatter’d as foon as the Winds and frefh Air 
 were let in among them. 
 
 THE 
 
than I at' 
 not difpenfc 
 making a little 
 of Caprea , as be- 
 defirous to fee a Place which 
 the Retirement of Augujius 
 for fome time, and the Refidence of Tiberius for 
 federal Years. The Ifiand lies four Miles in 
 Length from Eaft to Weft, and about one in 
 Breadth. The Weftern Part, for about two Miles 
 in Length, is a continu’d Rock vaftly high, and in- 
 acceffible on the Sea-fide. It has however the 
 greateft Town in. the Bland, that goes under the 
 Name of Ano-Caprea , and is in feveral Places co- 
 ver’d with a very fruitful Soil. The Eaftern End of 
 the Ifle rifes up in Precipices very near as high, tho*' 
 not quite fo long as the Weftern. Between thefe 
 Eaftern and Weftern Mountains lies a ’Slip of 
 lower Ground, which runs acrofs the IOand, and 
 is one of the pleafanteft Spots I . have feen. ’it is 
 hid with Vines, Figs, Oranges, Almonds, Olives, 
 Myrtles, and Fields of Corn, which looks extreme- 
 ly frefh and beautiful, and make up the moft de- 
 lightful little Landskip imaginable, when they are 
 furvey’d from the Tops of the neighbouring Moun- 
 G 3 tains. 
 
i£0 ihe JJle of Caprea. 
 
 tains. Here ftands the Town of Caprea , the Bi- 
 lhop’s Palace, and two or three Convents. In 
 the midft of this fruitful Tradf of Land rifesa Hill, 
 that was probably cover’d with Buildings in 77- 
 berius’s Time. There are' ftill feveral Ruins on the 
 Sides of it, and about the Top are found two or 
 three dark Galleries, low built, and cover’d with 
 Mafon’s Work, tho’ at prefent they appear over- 
 grown with Grafs. I enter’d one of them that is 
 a hundred Paces in Length. I obferved, as fome 
 cf the Countrymen were digging into the Sides of 
 this Mountain, that what 1 took for folid Earth, 
 was only Heaps of Brick, . Stone, and other Rub- 
 bifh, skinn’d over with a Covering of Vegetables. 
 But the mod confiderable Ruin is that which hands 
 on the very Extremity of the Eaftern Promontory, 
 where are ftill fome Apartments left, very high 
 and arch’d at Top. I have not indeed feen the Re- 
 mains of any ancient Roman Buildings, that have 
 not been Roof’d with either Vaults or Arches. 
 The Rooms I am mentioning ftand deep in the 
 Earth, and have nothing like Windows or Chim- 
 nies, which makes me think they were formerly 
 either Bathing-Places or Refervoirs of Water. An 
 old Hermit lives at prefent among the Ruins of 
 this Palace, who loft: his Companion a few Years 
 ago by a Fall from the Precipice. He told me 
 they had often found Medals and Pipes of Lead, as 
 they dug among the Rubbifh, and that not many 
 Years' ago they difcover’d a pav’d Road running 
 under Ground, from the Top of the Mountain to 
 the Sea-fide, which was afterwards confirm’d to 
 me by a Gentleman of the Bland. There is a very 
 noble Profpe& from this Place. On the one Side 
 lies a vafl: Extent of Seas, that runs abroad further 
 
 than 
 
 
*The IJle of Caprea. 25s 
 
 than the Eye can reach. Juft oppofite ftands the 
 green Promontory of Surrentum , and on the other 
 Side the whole Circuit of the Bay of Naples. This 
 ProfpeA, according to. Tacitus , was more agreeable 
 before the burning of V tfuvio ; that Mountain pro- 
 bably, which after the firft Eruption look’d like a 
 great Pile of Afhes, was in Tiberius' s time {haded 
 with Woods and Vineyards; for I think Martials 
 Epigram may ferve here as a Comment to Tacitus. 
 
 Hie ejl pampineis viridis V efuvius umbris , 
 
 PreJJ'erat hie madidos nobilis uva lacus. 
 
 Heec juga , qnam Nifes colies , plus Bacchus amavit : 
 Hoc nuper Satyri monte dedere chores. 
 
 Here Veneris Cedes, Lacedamone gratior illi ; 
 
 Hie locus Hercules) nomine clarus erat. 
 
 Cundla jacent flammis et trijli tnerfa favilld: 
 
 Nec fuptri vellent hoc licuijje fibi. L. 2. Ep. 105, 
 
 Vefuvio , cover’d with the fruitful Vine, 
 
 Here flourifh’d once, and ran with Floods of Wine-; 
 Here Bacchus oft to the cool Shades retir’d, 
 
 And his own Native- Nifa lefs admir’d ; 
 
 Oft to the Mountain’s airy Tops advanc’d. 
 
 The frisking Satyrs on- the Summets danc’d; 
 
 Alcides here, here Venus grac’d the Shore, 
 
 Nor lov’d her Fav’rite Lacedesmon more ; 
 
 Now Piles of Afhes, fpreading all around. 
 
 In undiftinguifh’d Heaps deform the Ground. 
 
 The Gods themfelves the ruin’d Seats bemoan, 
 
 And blame the Mifchiefs that themfelves have 
 done. 
 
 This View muff ftill have been more pleafant, 
 when the whole Bay was encompafs’d with fo 
 G 4 long 
 
§52 The IJle of Caprea. 
 
 long a Range of Buildings, that it appear’d to thofe, 
 who look’d on it at a diflance, but as one continu’d 
 Citv. On both the Shores of that fruitful Bottom, 
 which I have before mention’d, are flill to be feen 
 the Marks of ancient Edifices ; particularly on ' that 
 which looks toward the South there is a little kind of 
 Mole, which feems to have been the Foundation of a 
 Palace ; unlefs we may fuppofe that the Pharos of 
 Caprea flood there, which Statius takes notice of in 
 his Poem that invites his Wife to . Naples , and is, I 
 think, the moil natural among the Silva. 
 
 Nec defunt varies circum eblediamina vita j 
 Sive vaporiferas , blandijjima littcra , Baias , 
 
 Enthea fatidica feu vifere tebia Sibylla • 
 
 Dulce fit , lliacoque jugum memorabile remo 
 Scu tibi Bacchei vineta madentia Gauri , 
 
 Teleboumque domos , trepidis ubi dulcia nautis 
 Lumina nodtivaga tollit Pharus amula Luna , 
 Caraque non molli juga Surrentina Lyao. L. 3. 
 
 The blifsful • Seats with endlefs Pleafures flow. 
 Whether to Baia’s Sunny Shores you go, 
 
 And view the Sulphur to the Baths convey’d, 
 
 Or the dark Grotte of the Prophetick Maid, 
 
 Or fleep Mifeno from the Trojan nam’d, 
 
 Or Gaurus for its flowing Vintage fam’d, 
 
 Or Caprea , where the Lantnorn fix’d on high 
 Shines like a Moon through the benighted Sky, 
 While by its Beams the wary Sailor fleers ; 
 
 Or where Surrentum , clad in Vines, appears. 
 
 They found in Ano-Caprea , fome- Years ago, 
 a Statue and a rich Pavement under Ground, as 
 they had occafion to turn up the Earth that lay up- 
 on 
 
The IJle of Caprea. 153 
 
 on them. One ft ill fees, on the Bendings of thefe 
 Mountains, the Marks of feveral ancient Scales of 
 Stair's, by which they us’d to afcend them. The 
 whole Ifland is fo unequal that there were but few 
 Diver fions to he found in it without Doors, but what 
 recommended it moft to Tiberius was its wholefome 
 Air, which is warm in Winter and cool in Summer, 
 and its inacceflible Coafts, which are generally fo ve- 
 ry fteep, that a handful of Men might defend them a- 
 gainfta powerful Army. 
 
 We need not doubt but Tiberius had his diffe- 
 rent Redden ces, according as. the Seafons of the 
 . Year, and his different Sets of Pleafure requir’d. 
 Suetonius fays, Duodecim Villas totidem nominibus 
 crnavit. The whole Ifland was probably cut into 
 feveral eafy Afcents, planted with variety of Pa- 
 laces, and adorn’d with as. great a multitude of 
 Groves and Gardens as the Situation of the Place 
 would fuffer. The Works under Ground were 
 however more extraordinary than thofe above it; 
 for the - Rocks were all undermin’d with High- 
 ways, Grottoes, Galleries, Bagnio’s, and _ feveral 
 fubterraneous Retirements, that fuited with the 
 brutal Pleafures of the Emperor. One would 
 indeed very much wonder to fee fuch fmall Ap- 
 pearances of the many Works of Art, that were 
 formerly to be met with in this Ifland, were we 
 not told that the Romans , after the Death of Ti- 
 berius, fent hither an Army of Pioneers on.purpofe 
 to demolifh the Buildings, and deface the Beauties 
 of the Ifland. 
 
 In failing round Caprea we were entertain’d 
 with many rude Profpedfs of Rocks and Preci- 
 pices, that^ rife in feveral Places half a Mile high 
 in Perpendicular. At the Bottom of them are 
 G 5 Caves 
 
154 ' ^he IJle of Caprea. 
 
 Caves and Grottoes form’d by the continual 
 breaking of the Waves upon them. I enter’d one 
 which the Inhabitants call Grotto Ofcuro , and after 
 the Light of the Sun was a little worn off my 
 Eyes, could fee all the Parts of it diftin&ly, by a 
 glimmering Reflexion that play’d upon them from 
 the Surface of the Water. The Mouth is low 
 and narrow, but after having enter’d pretty^r 
 in, the Grotto opens it felf on' both Sides in an 
 oval Figure of an hundred Yards from one Ex- 
 tremity to the othe~, as we were told, for it would 
 not have been fafe meafuring of it. The Roof is 
 vaulted, and diftils frelh Water from every Part 
 of.it, which fell upon us as faff as the. fi iff Drop- 
 pings of a Shower. The Inhabitants and Neapoli- 
 tans who have heard of Tiberius'?, Grottoes, will 
 have this to be one of them, but there are feveral 
 Reafons that {how it to be natural. For befides 
 the little ufe we can conceive of fuch a <^irk Ca- 
 vern of Salt Waters, there are no where any Marks 
 of the Chiffel; the Sides are of a foft mouldering 
 Stone, and one fees many of the like hollow Spa- 
 ces worn in the Bottoms of the Rocks, as they are 
 more or lefs able to refill the Impreffions of the 
 Water that beats againft them. 
 
 Not far from this Grotto lie the Sirenum Scopuli , 
 which Virgil and Ovid mention in /Eneas' s Voyage; 
 they are two or three fharp Rocks that ftand about 
 a Stone’s-thxow from the South-fide of the Ifland, 
 and are generally beaten by Waves and Tempefts, 
 which are much more violent on the South than 
 on the North of Caprea. 
 
 famque aded Scopulos Sirenum adveSla fubibat ; 
 Difficiles quondam , multorumque ojjibus albos : 
 
 Turn 
 
The IJle of Caprea, *55 
 
 Tum rauca ajjiduo longe fale faxa fonabant. 5 JEi\, 
 
 Glides by ‘the Sirens Cliffs, a fhelfy Coa ft. 
 
 Long infamous for Ships and Sailors loir. 
 
 And white with Bones: Th’impetuous Ocean rorei. 
 
 And Rocks rebellow from the founding Shores. 
 
 Dry den. 
 
 ' I have before faid that they often find Medals m 
 this Iflarid. Manv of thofe they call the Spintria , ' 
 which Aretin has copy ’d, have been dug up here. 
 
 I know none of the Antiquaries that have written 
 on this SubieT, and find nothing fatisfa&ory of it 
 where I thought it moft likely to be met witp, m 
 Path’s Edition of Suetonius llluftrated by Meda.s.. 
 Thofe I have convers’d with about it, are of Opi- 
 nion they were made to ridicule the Buitahty or 
 Tiberius , tho’ I cannot but believe they were {tamp d 
 bv his Order. They are unqueftionably antique, . 
 and no bigger than- Medals of the third Magmtuue. 
 They bear on one Sidefome lewd Invention of that 
 hellifh Society which Suetonius calls Monjirojt con- 
 cubitus repertores , and on the other the Number ol 
 the Medal. I have feen of them as high as 
 to twenty. I can’t think they were made as a 
 Teft on the Emperor, becaufe Raillery on Corns is 
 of a modern Date. I know but two in the Upper 
 Empire, befides the Spintria , that he under any hu- 
 fpirion of it. The firft is one of Marcus Aurelius , 
 where, in Compliment to the Emperor and Empreis, 
 they have ftamp’d on the Reverfe the Figure h Ve- 
 nus careffing Mars, and endeavouring to detain him 
 from the Wars. 
 
 phioniam 
 
1 56 
 
 *2 he IJle of Caprea. 
 
 Quoniam belli fera munera Movers ' 
 
 Jrmipotens regit , in gremium qui.fcspe tuum fe 
 Rejicit , ceterno devinffus vulnere amoris. 
 
 Lucr. L. i. 
 
 The Venus has Faujlina' s Face, her Lover is a 
 leaked Figure with a Helmet on his Head, and a 
 Shield on his Arm. 
 
 Fu fcabie frueris mali quod in Agger e rodit 
 
 Qui tegitur parma et galea Juv. Sat. 5. 
 
 i his unluckily brings to mind Faujlind’ s Fond- 
 nefs for the Gladiator, and is therefore interpreted 
 by many as a hidden Piece of Satyr. But befides, 
 that fuch a Thought was inconfiftent with the Gra- 
 vity of a Senate, how can one imagine that the 
 
 Fathers 
 
\ The Jjle of Caprea. 1^7 
 
 Fathers would have dar’d to Affront the Wife of 
 Aurelius , and the Mother of Commodus , or that they 
 could think of giving Offence to an Emprefs whom 
 they afterwards deify’d, and. to an Emperor that 
 was the Darling of the Army and People. ■ 
 
 The other Medal is a Golden one of Gallienus, 
 preferv’d in the French King’s Cabinet, it is infcri- 
 bed G allien re Aitgujlce , Pax Ubique , and was ffamp’d 
 at a time when the Emperor’s Father was in Bon- 
 dage, and the Empire torn in Pieces by feveral Pre- 
 tenders to it. Yet, if one conffders the ffrange 
 Stupidity of this Emperor, with the fenfelefs Secu- 
 rity which appears in feveral of his Sayings that are 
 Rill left on Record, one may very well believe this 
 Coin was offhis own Invention. We may be fure, 
 if Raillery had once enter’d the old Roman Coins, 
 we fliould have been overffock’d with Medals of 
 this nature ; if we conffder there were often Rival 
 Emperors proclaim’d at the fame time, who en- 
 deavour’d at the leffening of each other’s Character, 
 and that moil of them were fucceeded by fuch as 
 •were Enemies to their Predeceffor. Thefe Medals 
 of Tiberius were never Current Money, but rather 
 of the' Nature of Medalions, which feem to have 
 been made on purpofe to perpetuate the Difcoveries 
 of that infamous Society. Suetonius tells us, that 
 their monftrous Inventions were Regifter’d feveral 
 ways, and preferv’d in the Emperor’s private A- 
 partments. Cubicula plurifariatn dijpofita tabellis ac 
 Sigillis lafci'vijfimarum pidhrrarurn et fgurarum a- 
 dornavit , librifque Elephantidis injlruxit : ne cui in 
 Opera ■ edendd exemplar impetrata Schemes deeffet. 
 The Elephantis here mention’d is probably the fame 
 Martial takes notice of for her Book of Poftures. 
 
 In 
 
158 The Ifle of Caprea. 
 
 In Sabellum. 
 
 Facundos tnibi de libidinofis 
 LegijYi ntmium , Sabelle , verfus, 
 
 Fhtales nec Didymi fciunt puelles , 
 molles Elephantidos libelli. 
 
 Sunt illic Veneris nov<e figures : 
 
 Epuales, See. Lib. 12. Ep. 43. 
 
 . Ovid mentions the fame kind of Pictures that 
 found a Place even in Augufius’s Cabinet. 
 
 Scilicet in domibus vejiris , ut prifea virorum 
 Artifici fulgent corpora pibia manu ; 
 
 Sic qua: concubitus varios Venerifque figuras 
 Exprimat , eft aliquo parva tabella loco . 
 
 De Trill. Lib. 2 
 
 There are feveral of the Sigilla , or Seals, Sueto- 
 nius fpeaks of, to be met with in Collections of an- 
 cient Intaglio’s. 
 
 But, I think, what puts it beyond all doubt that 
 thefe Coins were rather made by the Emperor’s Or- 
 der, than as a Satyr on him, is becaufe they are now 
 found in the very Place that was the Scene of thefe 
 his unnatural Lulls. . 
 
 Sfuem rv.pes Caprearum tetra latebit 
 
 Incejlo pojfiefa Seni ? — Cl. de 4to. Conf. Hon. 
 
 Who has not heard of Caprea’ s guilty Shore, 
 Polluted by the rank old Emperor ? 
 
 FROM 
 
FROM 
 
 NAT L E S 
 
 T O 
 
 ROME , by SEA. 
 
 Took a Felucca at Naples to carry me 
 to Rome , that I might not be forced 
 to run over the fame Sights a fecond 
 time, and might have an Opportunity 
 of feeing many things in a Road which 
 our Voyage- Writers have not fo particu- 
 larly defcrib’d. As in my Journey from Rome to 
 Naples I had Horace for my Guide, fo I had the 
 Pleafure of feeing my Voyage, from Naples to 
 Rome , defcribed by Virgil. It is indeed much eafier 
 to trace out the Way /Eneas took, than that of 
 Horace , becaufe Virgil has mark’d it out by Capes, 
 Elands, and other Parts of Nature, which are not 
 fo fubjeft to change or decay as are Towns, Cities, 
 and the Works of Art. Mount Paufilypo makes a 
 beautiful ProfpebI to thofe who pafs by it : At a 
 fmall diftance from it lies the little Eland of Nifida , 
 adorned with a great Variety of Plantations, rifmg 
 one above another in fo beautiful an Order, that the 
 
 whole 
 
160 From Naples to 
 
 whole Illand looks like a large Terrace- Garden. It 
 has two little Ports, and is not at prefent trou- 
 bled with any of thofe noxious Steams that Lucan 
 mentions. 
 
 Tall fpiramine Nefis 
 
 Ernittit Stygium nebulofis Aera faxls. Lib. 6, 
 
 Nefis ’ high Rocks fuch Stygian Air produce. 
 
 And the blue breathing Peftilence diffufe. 
 
 From Nifida we we row’d to Cape Mifeno. The 
 Extremity of this Cape has a long Cleft' in it., 
 which was enlarg’d and cut into Shape by Agrlppa , 
 who' made this the great Port for' the Roman Fleet 
 that ferv’d in the Mediterranean ; as that of Raven- 
 na held the Ships defign’d for the Adriatic and Ar- 
 chipelago. The higheft End of this Promontory 
 rifes in the falhion of a Sepulchre or Monument to 
 thofe that furvey it from the Land, which perhaps 
 might occafion Virgil ' s burying Mifenus under it. 
 I have feen a grave Italian Author, who has writ- 
 ten a very large Book on the Campania Felice , that 
 from Virgil's Defcription of this Mountain, con- 
 cludes it was call’d Aerlus before Mifenus had given 
 it a new Name. 
 
 At plus /Eneas ingenii mole Sepulchrum 
 Imponit , fuaque arma viro remumque tubamque 
 Monte fub Aerio , qui nunc Mifenus ab illo 
 Dicitur, aterumque tenet per facula nomen. 
 
 JEn. L. 61 
 
 There are Bill to be feen a few Ruins of old 
 Mifnum, but the moft confiderable Antiquity of 
 
 the 
 
Rome, by Sea. 16 J 
 
 the Place is a Set of Galleries that are hewen into 
 the Rock, and are much more fpacious than the 
 Pifdna Mirabilis. Some will have them to have 
 been a Refervoir of Water, but others more proba- 
 bly fuppofe them to have been Nero s Baths. _ 1 lay 
 the firft Night on the Ille of Procita , which is pre- 
 ty well cultivated, and contains about four thoufand 
 Inhabitants, who are all Vaflals to the Marquifs de 
 
 ^Tlie next Morning I went to fee the Me of 
 Jfchia . that {lands further out into the Sea. 1 he 
 ancient Poets call it Inarime , and \zy Typhosus un- 
 der it, by re'afon of its Eruptions of Fire. I here 
 has been no Eruption for near thefe three hundred 
 Years. The laft was very terrible, and deitroy d a 
 whole City. At prefent there are fcarce any Marks 
 left of a Subterraneous Fire, for the Earth is coal, 
 and over-run with Grafs and Shrubs, where tl e 
 Rocks will fuffer it. There are indeed feveral lit- 
 tle Cracks in it, thro’ which there iffues a conftant 
 Smoke, but ’tis probable this arifes from the warm 
 Springs that feed the many Baths with which this 
 Ifland is plentifully flock’d. I obferv’d, about one 
 of thefe Breathing Paflages, a Spot of Myrtles that 
 flourifli within the Steam of thefe Vapours, and 
 have a continual Moifture hanging upon them. On 
 the South of Ifchia lies a round Lake or about thiee 
 Quarters of a Mile Diameter, feparate from the oea 
 by a narrow Tradt of Land. It v/as formeily a 
 Roman Port. On the North End of this Ifland 
 ftands the Town and Caftle, on an exceeding high 
 Rock, divided from the Body of the Ifland, and in- 
 acceflible to an Enemy on all Sides. This Ifland is 
 larger, but much more 'Rocky and Banen than 
 Procita. Virgil makes them both {hake at the Fall 
 
J^vahs in Euboico Baiarum littore quondam 
 haxea pila cad.it , magnis quam , molibus ante 
 Conjtruftatn jaciunt pelago : Sic ilia ruinam 
 l ro / ia trahit , penitufque vadis illifa recumbit ; 
 Mifcenife maria et nigra attolluntur arena : 
 
 } Um fmtu Prochyta alia t remit, durumque cubile 
 Jnarime , J ovis imperiis impojla Typhceo. J£n. 9. 
 
 Not with lefs Ruin than the Baian Mole 
 (Rais’d on the Seas the Surges to control) 
 
 At once comes tumbling down the rocky Wall, 
 rrone to the Deep the Stones disjointed fall 
 the vaft Pile ; the fcatter’d Ocean flies j 
 •Black Sands, difeolour’d Froth, and mingled Mud 
 arife. 
 
 The frighted Billows roll, and feek the Shores : 
 i rembles high Prochyta , and Ifchia rores : 
 
 Typhoeus rores beneath, by Jove's Command, ' 
 Aftonilh’d at the Flaw that fhakes the Land, 
 
 Soon fhifts his weary Side, and fcarce awake, 
 
 With Wonder feels the Weight prefs lighter on his 
 Back - Dryden. 
 
 I don t lee why V irgd in this noble Comparison 
 has given the Epithet of Alta to Prochyta , for it is 
 not only no high Ifland in it felf, but is much lower 
 than Ifchia, and all the Points of Land that lie 
 within its Neighbourhood. I fhould think Alta was 
 join d adverbially with Premie, did Virgil make ufe 
 ol lb equivocal a Syntax. I cannot forbear infect- 
 ing, in this Place, the lame Imitation Silius Italicus 
 has made of the foregoing Pa flit ge. 
 
 Hand 
 
Rome, by Sea . 163 
 
 Haud aliter JlruSfo Tyrrhena ad littora Saxo, 
 Pugnaturd fretis, fubter cacifque pr ocelli s 
 Pila immane Conans , impmgitur ardua ponto , 
 lmmugit Nereus , d'vulfaque ccerula pulju 
 lllifum accipimt irata-fub aquora montem. 4. 
 
 So a vaft Fragment of the Baian UoXe, 
 
 That, fix’d amid the Tyrrhene Waters, braves 
 The beating Tempers and infulting Waves, 
 
 Thrown from its Bafis with a dreadful oound, 
 
 Dafhes the broken Billows all around, 
 
 And with refiftlefs Force the Surface cleaves. 
 
 That in its angry Waves the falling Rock receives. 
 
 The next Morning going to Cunue thro’ a very 
 pleafant Path, by th t Mare Mortuum , and the h- 
 hftan Fields, we faw in our way a great many 
 Ruins of Sepulchres, and other ancient Edifices. 
 Cuma is at prefent utterly deftitute of Inhabitants, 10 
 much is it chang’d fince Lucan’s time, if the roeni 
 to Pifa be his. 
 
 . — Adda lid quee condidlt Ahte tnuros 
 
 Euboicam referens fcecunda Neapolis urbem . 
 
 Where the fam’d Walls of fruitful Naples lie. 
 
 That may for Multitudes with Cuma vie. 
 
 They fhow here the Remains of Apollo’s Tem- 
 ple, which all the Writers of the Antiquities cl this 
 Place fuppofe to have been the fame Virgtl delcribes 
 in his Sixth Mneid , as built by Dadalus , and that 
 the very Story which Virgil there mentions,' was 
 actually engraven on the b ront of it. ^ 
 
 7 ? edditus 
 
164 From Naples to 
 
 Redditus his primiim terris tibi Phoebe facravit 
 Remtgium Alarum , pofuitque immania Templa. 
 
 In for/bus lethum Androgco, turn p ender e pcenas 
 Cecropidte juJJi, miferum ! Septena quotannis 
 Corpora . Nat orutn : St at duals fortibus urna. 
 
 , Contra elata mart refpondet Gnojfia tellus, &e. 
 
 " JEn,. 6. 
 
 To the Cumcean Coaft at length he came 
 And, here alighting, built his coftly Frame 
 In [crib d to Phoebus, here he hung on high 
 1 he Steerage of his Wings that - cut the Sky : 
 
 I hen o’er the lofty Gate his Art embofs’d 
 Androgeo’ s Death, and Off’rings to his Ghoft, 
 n Souths from Athens yearly fent, to meet 
 1 he ^ ate appointed by revengeful Crete ■ 
 
 And next to thofe the dreadful Urn was plac’d. 
 
 In Which the deftin’d Names by Lots were caft. 
 
 Dry den a 
 
 Among other Subterraneous Works there is the 
 beginning ofa Paffage, which is flopp’d up within 
 lefs than a hundred Yards of the Entrance, by 
 the Earth that is fallen into it. They fuppofe 
 it to have been the other Mouth of the Sibyl’s 
 Cgrotto. It lies indeed in the fame Line with the 
 Entrance near the Avernus, is fac’d alike with the 
 P us Reticulatum , and has ftill tine Marks of 
 chambers that have been cut into t he Sides of it. 
 
 mong the many F ables and Ccnjjedlures which 
 have been made on this Grotto, I thiink it is high- 
 ly probable, that it was once inhabited by fuch as 
 perhaps thought it a better Shelter again ft the Sun 
 t ian any other kind of Building, or ait leaft that it 
 was made with 1 mailer Trouble, anc. .Expence. As 
 
 for 
 
0 
 
 Rome* by Sea.- 165 
 
 for the Mofaic and other Works that may be found 
 in it, they may very well have been added in later 
 Ages, according as they thought fit to put the Place 
 to different Ufes. The Story of the Cimmerians is 
 indeed clogg’d with Improbabilities as Strabo relates 
 it, but it is very likely there was in it fome Foun- 
 dation of Truth. Hotner’ s Defcription of the Cim- 
 merians , whom he places in. thefe Parts, anfwers 
 very well to the Inhabitants of fuch a long dark 
 Cavern. 
 
 The gloomy Race, in Subterraneous Cells, 
 
 Among furrounding Shades and Darknefs dwells ; 
 Hid in th’ unwholfom Covert of the Night, 
 
 They Ihun th’ Approaches of the chearful Light: 
 The Sun ne’er vifits their obfcure Retreats, 
 
 Nor when he runs his Courfe, nor when he fets. 
 Unhappy Mortals! Odyf L. 10 . 
 
 Tu quoque littoribus nojlris , /Ene'ia nutrix , 
 
 JEternam moriens famam , Cajeta , dedijli: 
 
 Et nunc Jervat honos fedem tuus , qffaque nomen 
 Hefperid in magnd, Ji qua eji ea gloria, fignant. 
 
 JEn. 7. 
 
 And thou, O Matron of Immortal Fame, 
 
 Plere dying, to the Shore haft left thy Name : 
 Cajeta ftill the Place is -call’d .from Thee, 
 
 The Nurfe of great A Ineas ’ Infancy. 
 
 Here reft thy Bones in rich Hejperia’s Plains ; 
 
 Thy Name (’tis all a Ghoft can have) remains. 
 
 Dry den. 
 
 I faw at Cajeta the Rock of Marble, faid to 
 be cleft by an Earthquake at our Saviour’s Death. 
 
 There 
 
1 66 From Naples to 
 
 There is written over the Chapel Door, that leads 
 into the Crack, the Words of the Evangelift Ecce 
 terra-motus fa it us ejl magnus. I believe every one 
 who fees this vail Rent in fo high a Rock, and 
 obferves how exadlly the Convex Parts of one Side 
 tally with the Concave of the other, mull be fa- 
 tisfy’d that it was the Effect of an Earthquake, 
 tho’ I queftion not but it either happen’d long be- 
 fore the time of the Latin Writers, or in the darker 
 Ages fince, for otherwife I cannot but think they 
 would have taken notice of its Original. The Port, 
 Town, Caftle, and Antiquities of this Place have 
 
 been often defcribed. 
 
 We touch’d next at Monte Circeio , which Homer | 
 calls Infula /Lea , whether it be that it was former- 
 ly an Ifland, or that the Greek Sailors of his time 
 thought it fo. It is certain they might eafily have 
 been deceiv’d by its appearance, as being a very high 
 Mountain join’d to the main Land by a narrow 
 Tradl of Earth, that is many Miles in Length, 
 and almoft of a Level with the Surface of the Wa- 
 ter. The End of this Promontory is very rocky, 
 and mightily expos’d to the Winds and Waves, 
 which perhaps gave the firft Rife to the howlings 
 of Wolves, and the roarings of Lions, that us’d to j 
 be heard thence. This I had a very lively Idea of, 
 being forc’d to lie under it a whole Night. V irgil’s 
 Defcription of /Eneas palling by this Coaft can ne- 
 ver be enough admir’d. It is worth while to ob- 
 ferve how, to heighten the Horror of the Defcripti- 
 on, he has prepar’d the Reader’s Mind, by the So- j 
 lemnity of Caj eta’s E uneral, and the dead Stilnefs of 
 
 the Night. 
 
 Lit pins exequiis /Eneas rite folutis, 
 
 Agger e compofito tumuli , pojtqmm a It a quierunt 
 
 /Equora 
 
Rome, by Sea. 1 6 7 
 
 ./E quora , tendit iter veils , portumque relinquit. 
 Adfpirant aura in no cl cm, nec Candida cur/us 
 Luna negat : Splendct tremulo fub lumine pontus. 
 
 I Proximo Circa a raduntur lit tor a terra; : 
 
 ; Dives inacceJJ'os ubi Solis filia lucos 
 Ajfiduo refonat cantu , tedlifque fuperbis 
 Vrit odoratam nodi urn a in lurnina cedrum , 
 
 Argnto tenues percurrens pediine telas : 
 
 ; Mine exaudiri gemitus , iraque Leorium 
 Vincla recuj'antum , 'et [era fub nodle rudentum : 
 Setigeriquefues, atqu.e in prafepibus urfi 
 j Savire\- ac forma magmrum ululare luporutn : 
 
 Afuos hominum.ex facie Dea fava potentibus her bis 
 Induerat Circe in vultus ac terga ferarum. 
 
 Afar ne monftra pii paterentur talia Trees 
 Delati in partus , neu littora dira fubirent , 
 
 Neptnnus vends implevit vela fecundis , 
 
 Atque fugatn dedit , et prater vada fervida vexit. 
 
 JEn. L. 7. 
 
 Now, when the Prince her Funeral Rites had 
 paid. 
 
 He plow’d the Tyrrhene Seas with Sails difplay’d ; 
 From Land a gentle Breeze arofe, by Night 
 Serenely fhone the Stars, the Moon was bright, 
 
 And the Sea trembled with her Silver Light? 
 
 Now near the Shelves of Circe’s Shores they run, 
 (Circe the rich, the Daughter of the Sun) 
 
 A Dang’rous Coaft : The Goddefs wades her 
 Days 
 
 In joyous Songs, the Rocks refound her Lays : 
 
 I In Spinning, or the Loom, fhe fpends her Night, 
 And Cedar Brands fupply her Father’s Light. 
 
 From hence were heard, (rebellowing to the Main) 
 
 I he Roars of Lions that refufe the Chain, 
 
1 68 From Naples to 
 
 The Grunts of briftled Boars, and Groans of ! 
 Bears, 
 
 And Herds of howling Wolves that flun the Sailors 
 Ears. 
 
 Thefe from their Caverns, at the Clofe of Night, 
 
 Fill the fad Ifie with Horror and Affright. j 
 
 Darkling they mourn their Fate, whom Circe’s 1 
 Pow’r, 
 
 (That watch’d the Moon, and Planetary Hour) 
 
 With Words and wicked Herbs, lrorn Humane- 
 Kind 
 
 Had alter’d, and in Brutal Shapes confin’d. 
 
 Which Monfters left the Trojan's Pious Hoft 
 Should bear, or touch upon th’ inchanted Coaft ; 
 Propitious Neptune fteer’d their Courfe by Night 
 With rifing Gales, that fped their happy Flight. 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 Virgil calls this Promontory Mece Injula Circes in 
 the third JEneid , but ’tis the Heroe, and not the 
 Poet that fpeaks. It may however be look d upon 
 as an Intimation, that he himfelf thought it an 
 I {land in /Eneas’s Time. As for the thick Woods, 
 which not only Virgil but Horner mentions, in the | 
 beautiful Defcription that Plutarch and Longinus 1 
 have taken notice of, they are moft of them grub- 
 bed up fince the Promontory has been cultivated 
 and inhabited, tho’ there are ftill many Spots of it 
 which fhow the natural Inclination of the Soil leans 
 
 that way. _ 
 
 i The next Place' we touch’d upon was Nettuno , 
 where we found nothing remarkable befides the 
 extreme Poverty and Lazinefs of the Inhabitants. 
 At two Miles diftance from it lie the Ruins of An- 
 tium , that are fpread over a great Circuit of Land. 
 
 There! 
 
Rome, by Sea . 169 
 
 There are ftill left the Foundations of feveral 
 Buildings, and what are always the laft Parts that 
 perifli in a Ruin, many fubterraneous Grottoes 
 and Paflages of a great Length. The Foundations 
 of Nero’s Port are ftill to be feen. It was alto- 
 gether Artificial, and compos’d of huge Moles 
 running round it, in a kind of Circular Figure, 
 except where the Ships were to enter, and had 
 about three quarters of a Mile in its fhorteft Dia- 
 meter. Tho’ the making of this Port muft have 
 coft prodigious Sums of Money, we find no Me- 
 dal of it, and yet the fame Emperor has a Medal 
 ftruck in his own Name for the Port of Ojiia , which 
 in reality was a Work of his Predeceflor Claudius. 
 The laft Pope was at confiderable Charges to 
 make a little kind of Harbour in this Place, and 
 to convey frefh Water to it, which was one of 
 the Artifices of the Grand Duke, to divert his Ho- 
 linefs from his Project of making Civita-vecchia a 
 free Pert. There lies between Antiurn and Nettu - 
 no , a Cardinal’s Villa , which is one of the pleafan- 
 teft for Walks, Fountains, Shades, and Profpedts 
 that I ever faw. 
 
 Antrim was formerly famous for the Temple 
 of Fortune that ftood in it. All agree there were 
 two Fortunes worfhipped here, which Suetonius 
 calls the Fortunes Antiates , and Martial the Sorores 
 Antii. Some are of Opinion, that by thefe two 
 Goddeiles were meant the two Nemefes , one of 
 which rewarded good Men, as the other punifh’d 
 the wicked. Fabretti and others are apt to be- 
 lieve, fiat by the two Fortunes were only meant 
 in general the Goddefs v/ho fent Profperity, or 
 fhe whe fent Affli<ftions'‘to Mankind, and produce 
 in their Behalf an ancient Monument found in this 
 H very 
 
*7° From Naples to 
 
 ■very Place, and fuperfcrib’d Fortunes Fetid , which 
 indeed may favour one .Opinion as well as the 
 other, and (hows at lead they are not mi 0a fen in 
 the general Senfe of their Divifion. I don’t know 
 -whether any Body has taken notice, that this double 
 Function of the Goddefs gives a confiderable 
 Light and Beauty to the Ode which Horace has ad- 
 idrefs’d to her. The whole Poem is a Prayer to 
 Fortune, that One would profper Ccefar’s Arms, and 
 confound his Enemies, fo that each of the God- 
 delTes has her Task affign’d in the Poet’s Prater- 
 and we may obferve the Invocation is divided' be- 
 tween the two Deities, the fir ft Line relating in- 
 differently to either. That which I have mark’d 
 fpeaks to the Goddefs of Profperity, or if you 
 pleafe to the Nemefis of the Good, and the other 
 to the Goddefs of Adverfity, or to the Nemefis .of 
 •the Wicked. 
 
 O Diva gratum ques regls Anti urn , 
 
 Praefens vel imo tollere de gradu 
 Mortale corpus, vel fuperbos 
 Vertere funeribus triumphos! &c. 
 
 Great Goddefs, An flu? As Guardian Power 
 Whofe Force is ftrong, and quick to raife 
 The lowed; to the higheft Place ■, 
 
 Or with a wonarcus Fall 
 Fo bring the haughty lower , 
 
 And turn proud Triumphs to a Funeral , See. 
 
 Creech « 
 
 ^ If we take the firft Interpretation of the two 
 Fortunes for the double Nemefis , the Compliment 
 to Cafar is the greater, and the fifth Stanza clearer 
 
 than 
 
 
Rome, by Sea. iy\ 
 
 than the Commentators ufually make it, for the 
 Clavi tr ah ales, cunei , uncus, liquidumque plumbum , 
 were actually ufed in the Punifhment of Crimi- 
 nals. 
 
 Our next Stage brought us to the Mouth of 
 the Tiber , into which we enter’d with fome Dan- 
 ger, the Sea being generally very rough in thefe 
 Parts, where the River rufhes into it. The Sear 
 fon of the Year, the Muddinefs of the Stream, 
 with the many green Trees hanging over it, put 
 me in mind of the delightful Image that Virgil 
 has given us when ALneas took the firft View 
 of it. 
 
 Atque hie /Eneas ingentem ex esquorc lucum 
 Profpicit : hunc inter fluvio Tiberinus a?ncsno y 
 Vorticibus rapidis et multd Jiavus arena 
 In mare prorumpit : varies circumque fupraque 
 Ajjv.it ee ripis volncres et fljuninis alveo 
 Aithera mulcebant cantu, ■ lucoque volabant. 
 
 Fledtere iter Sociis , terresque advertere proras 
 hnperat , et lestus fiuvio fuccedit opaco. JEn. L. 7, 
 
 The Trojan from the Main beheld a Wood, 
 
 Which thick with Shades, and a brown Horror 
 flood : 
 
 Betwixt the Trees the Tiber took his Courfe, 
 
 With Whirlpools dimpled, and with downward 
 Force 
 
 That drove the Sand along, he took his Way, 
 
 And roll’d his yellow Billows to the Sea: 
 
 About him, and above, and round the Wood, 
 
 The Birds that haunt the Borders of his Flood, 
 
 That bath’d within, or bask’d upon his Side, 
 
 To tuneful Songs their narrow Throats apply ’d. 
 
 H 2 The 
 
ij2 From Naples to 
 
 The Captain gives Command, the joyful Train 
 Glide through the gloomy Shade, and leave the 
 Main. Dryden. 
 
 It is impoflible to learn from the Ruins of the 
 Port of Ojiia what its Figure was when it flood 
 whole and entire. I fhall therefore fet down the 
 Medal, that I have before mention’d, which re- 
 prefents it as it was formerly. ' 
 
 It is worth while to compare 'JuvenaV s Defcrip- 
 tion of this Port with the Figure it makes on the 
 Coin. 
 
 Tandem intrat pofitas inclufa per aquora moles , 
 Tyrrhenamque Pharon , porretfaque brachia , rurfus 
 ^ues pelago occurrunt medio , longeque relinquunt 
 Italiam : non ftc igitur mirabere portus 
 
 Quos Natura dedit Juv. Sat. 12.’ 
 
 At 
 
Rome, by Sea. 173 
 
 At laft withii the mighty Mole fhe gets, 
 
 Our Tyrrhene Pharos , that the mid Sea meets 
 With its Enbrace, and leaves the Land behind ; 
 
 A Work fc wondrous Nature ne’er defign’d. 
 
 Dryd . jfuv. 
 
 The Seas may very properly be faid to be in- 
 clos’d ( Incl:fa ) between the two Semicircular 
 Moles that almoft furround them. The CoIo/Ja 
 with fometiing like a lighted Torch in its Hand, 
 is probably he Pharos in the fecond Line. The 
 two Moles "hat we muft fuppofe are join’d to the 
 Land b'ehird the Pharos , are very Poetically de- 
 fcrib’d by th: 
 
 - PorrSiaque brachia , rurfas 
 
 Ppiice pelago £ currant medio, longeque relinquunt 
 It alt am - . 
 
 as they retin from one another in the Compafs 
 they make, till their two Ends almoft meet a 
 fecond time in the midft of the Waters, where 
 the Figure of Neptune fits. The Poet’s Reflec- 
 tion on th< Haven is very juft, fince there are 
 few natural Ports better land-lock’d, and clo- 
 fed on all Sides than this feems to have been. 
 The Figure of Neptune has a Rudder by him, to 
 mark the Convenience of the Harbour for Na- 
 vigation, as he is reprefented himfelf at the En- 
 trance of it. to fhew it flood in the Sea. The 
 Dolphin diftnguifties him from a River God, and 
 figures out his Dominion over the Seas. He 
 holds the fane Fifh in his Hand on other Me- 
 dals. Wha it means we may learn from the 
 Greek Epigam on the Figure of a Cupid , that 
 
E\ 
 
 other. 
 
 Ou<N (J-clrtw rTci?,cly.u.ii Kofi 
 Tf Q/ci O TriS'i 
 
 A proper Emblem graces either Hand, 
 
 In one he holds the Sea, in one the Land. 
 
 I talc a Day more brought us to Rome, thro* a. 
 Hoad that is commonly viixted by Travellers... 
 
ROME. 
 
 T is generally obferv’d, that Modern-- 
 Rome (lands higher than the Ancient j, 
 ^Wpi I ^ ome have computed it about four- 
 
 teen- or fifteen Feet, taking one Place 
 with another. The Reafon given for 
 a -i j t t p at the prefent City llands 
 
 upon the Ruins of the former, and indeed I have 
 often obferved, that where: any considerable Pile 
 of Building ‘{food anciently, one {fill finds a rifing 
 Ground, or a little kind of Hill, which was 
 doubtlefs made up out of the Fragments and Rub- 
 bifii of the ruin’d Edifice, But befides this parti- 
 cular Caufe, we may affign another that has very 
 much contributed to the raifing the Situation of 
 feveral Parts of Rome: It being certain the great 
 Quantities of Earth, that have been walh’d olfi 
 from the Hills by the Violence of Showers, have 
 had no fmall ihare in it. This any one may be 
 fenfible of who obferves how far feveral Build- 
 ings, that Hand near the Roots of Mountains, are 
 funk deeper in the Earth than thofe that have been 
 on the Tops of Hills, or in open Plains; for 
 which reafon the prefent Face of Rome is much 
 more Even and Level than it was formerly ; the 
 fame / Caule that has rais’d the low Grounds ha- 
 ving contributed to fink thofe that were higher. 
 
 There are in Rome two Sets of Antiquities, 
 the Chrilfian and the Heathen. The former, tho 7 
 FI 4 of 
 
176 ROME. 
 
 of a frefher Date, are fo embroil’d with Fable 
 and Legend, that one receives but little Satisfacti- 
 on from fearching into them. The other give a 
 great deal of Pleafure to fuch as have met with 
 them before in ancient Authors ; for a Man who 
 is in Rome can fcarce fee an ObjeCt that does not 
 call to mind a Piece of a Latin Poet or Hifto- 
 rian. Among the Remains of old Rome , the 
 Grandeur of the Commonwealth fhows it felf 
 chiefly in Works that were either neceflary or 
 convenient, fuch as Temples, Highways, Aque- 
 duCts, Walls, and Bridges of the City. On the con- 
 trary the Magnificence of Rome , under the Em- 
 perors, was rather for Oftentation or Luxury, 
 than any real Ufefulnefs or Neceflity, as in Baths, 
 Amphitheatres, Circus’s, Obelisks, Triumphant 
 Pillars, Arches and Maufoleums ; for what they 
 added to the AqueduCts was rather to fupply their 
 Baths and Naumachias, and to embellifn the City 
 with Fountains, than out of any real Neceflity 
 there was for them. Thefe feveral Remains have 
 been fo copioufly defcrib’d by abundance of Tra- 
 vellers, and other Writers, particularly by thofe 
 concern’d in the learned Collection of Gravius, 
 that it is very difficult to make any new Difco- 
 veries on fo beaten a Subject. There is however 
 fo much to be obferv’d in fo fpacious a Field of 
 Antiquities, that it is almoft impoflible to furvey 
 them without taking new Hints, and raifing dif- 
 ferent Reflections, according as a Man’s natural 
 Turn of Thoughts, or the Courfe of his Studies 
 direCt him. 
 
 No Part of the Antiquities of Rome pleas’d me 
 fo much as the ancient Statues, of which there 
 is ftill an incredible Variety. The Workman- 
 
 fhip 
 
R 0 M E. i yy 
 
 (hip is often the moil exquifite of any thing in its 
 kind. A Man would wonder how it were pofli- 
 ble for fo much Life to enter into Marble, as may 
 be difcover’d in fome of the heft of them ; and even 
 in the meaneft one has the Satisfadfion of feeing 
 the Faces, Poftures, Airs and Drefs of thofe that 
 have liv’d fo many Ages before us. There is a 
 ftrange Refemblance between the Figures of the fe- 
 veral Heathen Deities, and the Defcriptions that the 
 Latin Poets have given us of them ; but as the firft: 
 may be look’d upon as the ancienter of the two, I 
 queftion not but the Roman Poets were the Copiers 
 of the Greek Statuaries.- Tho’ on other Cccafi- 
 ons we often find the Statuaries took their Subjects 
 from the Poets. The Laocoon is too known an In- 
 ftance among many others that are to be met with 
 at Rome. In the Villa Mdabrandina are the Figures 
 of an old and young Man, engaged together at the 
 Cecjlus , who are probably the Dares and Entellus 
 of Virgil ; where by the way one may obferve the 
 Make of the ancient Ccejlus , that it only confifted 
 of fo many large Thongs about the Hand, 
 without any thing like a Piece of Lead at the End 
 of them, as fome Writers of Antiquities have falfely 
 imagin’d. 
 
 I queftion not but many Paftages in the old Poets 
 hint at feveral Parts of Sculpture, that were in vogue 
 in the Author’s Time, tho’ they are now never thought 
 of, and that therefore fuch Paftages lofe much of their 
 Beauty in the Eye of a modern Reader, who does 
 not look upon them in the fame Light with the Au- 
 thor’s Contemporaries. I fhall only mention two 
 or three out of ^Juvenal , that his Commentators 
 have not taken notice of. The firft runs thus, 
 
 H 5 
 
 Midta 
 
I 7 S ROM E. 
 
 Mult a pudicitice veteris vejligia forfan, 
 
 Aut aliqua extiter int, et Jib J overfed Jove nondunv 
 Barato - — ■ Sat. 6,. 
 
 Some thin Remains of Chaflity appear’d 
 Ev’n under Jove , but Jove without a Beard. 
 
 Dryden , I 
 
 I appeal to any Reader, if the Humour here would 
 not appear much more natural and unforced to a j 
 People that fa w every Day fome or other Statue of 
 this God with a thick bufhy Beard, as there are ftill 
 many of them extant at Rome , than it can to us 
 who have no fuch Idea of him ; efpecially if we 
 confider there was in the fame City a T emple de- 
 dicated to the young Jupiter , call’d Te?nplu?n Ve- 
 jovis y where, in all probability, there flood the par- 
 ticular Statue of a * Jupiter Imberbis. Juvenal , in ; 
 another Place, makes his Flatterer compare the Neck 
 of one that is feebly built, to that of Hercules hold- 
 ing up Antes us from the Earth. 
 
 Et longum invalidi collum cervicibus aquat 
 Herculis Antaum procul a tellure tenentis. Sat. 3 . 
 
 His* long Crane Neck and narrow Shoulders praife ; 
 You’d think they were deferibing Hercules. 
 
 Lifting Ant ecus — — Dryden. 
 
 What a ftrain’d unnatural Similitude muft this 
 feem to a modern Reader, but how full of Hu- 
 mour, if we fuppofe it alludes to any celebrated 
 
 * YJW. OviJ.ds Faftis, Li. 3, Eleg. .7* 
 
 Statues 
 
ROME. ijg 
 
 Statues of thefe two Champions, that flood perhaps 
 in fomepuhiick Place or Highway near Rome ? And 
 what makes it more than probable there were fuch 
 Statues, we meet with the Figures, which Juvenal 
 here ‘defcribes, on antique Intaglio’s and Medals. 
 Nay, Propertius has taken notice of the very 
 Statues. 
 
 Ludiantum in pulvere figna 
 Her cults Antaique Fib; $. Car. i. 
 
 Antceus here and ftern Alcidcs drive, 
 
 And both the grappling Statues fcem to live. 
 
 I cannot forbear obferving here, that the T urn of 
 the Neck and Arms is often commended in the La- 
 tin Poets among the Beauties of a Man, as in Ho- 
 race we find both put together, in that beautiful De- 
 fcription of Jealoufy. 
 
 Dn?n tu , Lydia , Telepbi 
 
 Cervicem roj'eam , et cered Pclephi 
 Laudas Brachia , vce meurn 
 Fervens difficile bile tumet jecur . 
 
 Tunc nec mens mibi , nec color 
 
 Certd fede manent:. humor in genas 
 Furtim labitur , arguens 
 
 dhiarn lends penitus macerer ignibus* 
 
 While Telep bus’s youthful Charms, 
 
 His rofy Neck, and winding Arms, 
 
 • With endlefs Rapture you- recite. 
 
 And in the tender Name delight ; 
 
 My Heart, enrag’d by jealous Heats, ' 
 
 With numberlefs R.efentment3 beats,. 
 
 From 
 
180 ROM E. 
 
 From my pale Cheeks the Colour flies. 
 
 And all the Man within me dies ; 
 
 By fits my fwelling Grief appears 
 In rifing Sighs, and falling Tears, 
 
 That fhow too well the warm Defi es. 
 
 The filent, flow, confuming Fires, 
 
 Which on my inmofl: Vitals prey. 
 
 And melt my very Soul away. 
 
 This we fhould be at a lofs to account for, 
 did we not obferve in the old Roman Statues, that 
 thefe two Parts were always bare, and expos’d to 
 View, as much as our Hands and Face are at 
 prefent. I cannot leave ‘Juvenal without taking 
 notice that his 
 
 Ventilat ajlivum d'lgitis fudantibus aurum , 
 
 Nec fufferre queat majoris pondera Gemma. Sat. I . 
 
 Charg’d with light Summer Rings his Fingers 
 fweat. 
 
 Unable to fupport a Gem of Weight, Dryden. 
 
 was not anciently fo great an Hyperbole as it is 
 now, for I have feen old Roman Rings fo very 
 thick about, and with fuch large Stones in them, 
 that ’tis no wonder a Fop fhould reckon them a 
 little cumberfom in the Summer Seafon of fo hot 
 a Climate. 
 
 It is certain that Satyr delights in fuch Allu- 
 fions and Inftances as are extremely natural and 
 familiar : When therefore we fee any thing in an 
 old Satyrift that looks forc’d and pedantick, we 
 ought to confider how it appear’d in the time 
 the Poet writ, and whether or no there might 
 
 not 
 
ROME . 1B1 
 
 not be fome particular Circumfiances to recom- 
 mend it to the Readers of his own Age, which we 
 are now deprived of. One of the fineft ancient 
 Statues in Rome is a Meleager with a Spear in his 
 Hand, and the Head of a wild Boar on one Side of 
 him. It is of Parian Marble, and as yellow as 
 Ivory. One meets with many other Figures of 
 Meleager in the ancient BaJJo Relievo’s , and on the 
 Sides of the Sarcophagi , or Funeral Monuments. 
 Perhaps it was the Arms or Device of the old Ro- 
 man ‘ Hunters ; which Conjecture I have found con- 
 firm’d in a Pafiage of Manilius , that lets us know 
 the Pagan Hunters had Meleager for their Patron, as 
 the Chriftians have their St. Hubert. He fpeaks of 
 the Conftellation which makes a good Sportfman. 
 
 •— SJuibus a fpir antibus orii 
 
 'Te, Meleagre , colunt . Manil. Lib. 5. 
 
 I queftion not but this fets a Verfe, in the fifth 
 Satyr of Juvenal , in a much better Light than if we 
 fuppofe that the Poet aims only at the old Story of 
 Meleager , without confidering it as fo very common 
 and familiar a one among the Romans. 
 
 ' 1 Flavi dignus ferro Meleagri 
 
 Spumat apcr Juv. Sat. 5. 
 
 A Boar intire, and worthy of the Sword 
 Of Meleag er , fmokes upon the Board. 
 
 Mr. Bowles. 
 
 In the beginning of the ninth Satyr, Juvenal asks 
 his Friend why he looks like Marfya when he was 
 overcome ? 
 
 Scire velim quare toties mi hi, N<evole , trijlis 
 Occuris fronte obduffd, feu Marfya viftus ? 
 
 Tell 
 
*S2 ROME. 
 
 Tell me why fauntring thus from Place to Place, 
 
 I meet thee, Navolus , with a clouded Face? 
 
 Dryden’s 'Juvenal, 
 
 Some of the Commentators' tell us, that Marfya 
 was a Lawyer who had loft his Caufe ; others fay ] 
 that this Paflage alludes to the Story of the Satire 
 Marfyas , who contended with Apollo ; which I think 
 is more humorous than the other, if we confider 
 there was a famous Statue of Apollo fleaing Marfya 
 in the midft of the Roman Forum , as there are id ill 
 feveral ancient Statues of Ro?ne on the fame Subjedl. 
 
 There is a Paftage in the fixth Satyr of Juvenal , 
 that I could never tell what to make of, ’till I had 
 got the Interpretation of it from one of Bellorid’% 
 ancient Bajfo Relievo’s. 
 
 Magnorum Artificum frangebat pocula miles , 
 
 Ut phaleris gauderet Earns : ccelataque caffs 
 Rojnulece fimulachra ferce manfuefcere jujjis 
 bnperii fato, et geminos fub rupe Ffuirinos, 
 
 Ac nudam effigiem clypeo fulgentis et bajld , 
 
 Pendentifque Dei perituro ofenderat hojti. 
 
 Juv. Sat. ii. 
 
 Or elfe a Helmet for himfelf he made. 
 
 Where various Warlike Figures were inlaid 
 The Roman Wolf fuckling the Twins was there. 
 
 And Mars himfelf, arm’d with his Shield and Spear, 
 Hov’ring above his Creft, did dreadful ihow. 
 
 As threatning Death to each refilling Foe. 
 
 Dryden’s Juvenal, 
 
 Juvenal here deicribes the Simplicity of the old 
 Roman Soldiers, and the Figures that were gene- 
 rally 
 
ROME. 1 8 > 
 
 rally engraven on their Helmets. The firft cf 
 them was the Wolf giving Suck to Romulus and Re- 
 mus: The fecond, which is comprehended in the 
 two kft Verfes, is not fo intelligible. Some of the 
 Commentators tell us, that the God here mention- 
 ed is Mars, that he comes to fee his two Sons fuck- 
 ing.the Wolf, and that the old Sculptors generally 
 drew their Figures naked, that they might have 
 the Advantage of reprefenting the different fwelling 
 of the Mufcles, and the turns of the Body. But 
 they are extremely at a Lofs to know what is 
 meant by the Word Pendent is ; fome fanfy it ex- 
 preffes only the great Emboffment of the Figure, 
 others believe it hung off the Helmet in Alto Re- 
 lievo , as in the foregoing Tra'nfiation. Lubin fup-r 
 pofes that the God Mars was engraven on the 
 Shield, and that he is laid to he hanging, becaufe the 
 Shield which bore him hung on the left Shoulder. 
 One of the old. Interpreters is of Opinion, that by 
 hanging is only meant a Pofture of bending forward 
 to hr ike the Enemy. Another will have it, that 
 whatevever is placed on the Head may be faid to 
 hang, as we call Hanging Gardens, fuch as are 
 planted on the top of the Houfe. Several learned 
 Men,, who like none, of thefe Explications, believe 
 there has been a Fault in the Tranlc'riber, and that 
 Pen dent is ought to be Perdentis ; but they quote no 
 Manufcript in favour of their Conjecture.. The true 
 meaning of the Words is certainly as follows. The 
 Rosnan Soldiers, who were not a little proud of their. 
 Founder, and the Military Genius of their Repub- 
 lick, us’d to bear on their Helmets the firu Hiftory 
 of Romulus , who was begot by- the God of War, 
 and fuckled by a Wolf.* The Figure of the God 
 was made as if defending on the.Prieftefs Ilia, or as 
 
 others 
 
1 84 ROM E. 
 
 others call her Rhea Silvia. The occafion required 
 his Body fhould be naked. 
 
 Tu quoque inermis eras cum te formefa Sacerdos 
 Cepit: ut hinc urbi Semina magna dares. 
 
 Ov. de Faf. L. 3. 
 
 Then too, our mighty Sire, thou flood’d: difarm’d, 
 When thy rapt Soul the lovely Prieftefs charm’d, 
 That Rome’s high Founder bore 
 
 tho’ on other Occafions he is drawn, as Horace has 
 deferib’d him. Tunica, cindlam adamantind. The 
 Sculptor however, to diftinguifh him from the reft 
 of the Gods, gave him what the Medallifts call his 
 proper Attributes, a Spear in one Hand, and a 
 Shield in the other. As he was reprefented defend- 
 ing, his Figure appear’d fufpended in the Air over 
 the Veftal Virgin, in which Senfethe Word Penden- 
 tis is extremely proper and Poetical. Befides the 
 Antique Baffo Relievo , that made me firft think of 
 this Interpretation, I have ftnee met with the fame 
 Figures on the Reverfes of a couple of ancient Coins, 
 which were ftamp’d in the Reign of Antoninus Pius\ 
 as a Compliment to that Emperor, whom for his 
 excellent Government and Conduct of the City of 
 Rome , the Senate regarded as a fecond kind of 
 Founder. 
 
 Ilia 
 
1 86 ROME. 
 
 Blstnda quies viSiis furtim fubrepit ocellis , 
 
 Et cadit d mento languida fa£ia inanus. 
 
 Mars videt banc, vi [unique cupit , potiturque cupltd : 
 
 Et fua divind furt a fefellit ope. 
 
 Somnus ablt : jacet ilia- gravis jam fcilicet intra 
 Vifcera Romance conditor urbis erat. 
 
 Ov. de Faftis, Lib. 3 . Eleg. i„ 1 
 
 As the fair Veftal to the Fountain came, 
 
 (Let none be ftartled at a Veftal ’s Name) 
 
 Tir’d with the Walk, fire laid her down to reft. 
 
 And to the Winds expos’d her glowing Breaft 
 Fo take the Freftmefs of the Morning°Air, 
 
 ■And gather’d in a Knot her flowing Hair: 
 
 While thus {he refted on her Arm reclin’d, 
 
 The hoary Willows waving with the Wind, 
 
 And feather’d Quires that warbled in the Shade, 
 
 And purling ■ Streams that through the MeadowQ 
 ftray’d, a* 
 
 In drowly Murmurs lull’d the gentle Maid. 3 
 The God of War beheld the Virgin lie, 
 
 The God beheld her with a Lover’s Eye, 
 
 And by fo tempting an Occaflon prcfs’d". 
 
 The beauteous Maid, whom he beheld, poflefs’d: 
 Conceiving; as {he flept, her fruitful Womb 
 Swell’d with the Founder of Immortal Rome. 
 
 I cannot quit this Head without taking notice of 
 a Line m Seneca the Tragedian. 
 
 Primus emergit folo 
 
 I) extra, ferocem cornibus premens taurum 
 
 Zeius — — Sen. CEdip. A£L 3 .. 
 
 — — Firft Ictus rifes through the Ground, 
 
 .Bending the Bull’s tough Neck with Pain, 
 
 That tofles back his Horns in vain, 
 
 I can- 
 
ROME. 1 87 
 
 i cannot doubt but the Poet had here in view 
 the Pofture of 'Let us in the famous Groupe of F fi- 
 gures, which reprefents the two Brothers binding 
 Dtrce to the Horns of a mad Bull. 
 
 I could not forbear taking particular notice of 
 the feveral Mufical Inftruments that are to be 
 feen in the Hands of the Apollo’s , Mufes, Fauns, 
 Satyrs, Bacchanals, and Shepherds, which might 
 certainly give a great Light to the Difpute for pre- 
 ference between the ancient and modern Mufic fe- 
 lt would perhaps be no impertinent Defign to take 
 off all -their Models in Wood, which might not 
 only give us fome Notion of the ancient Mufick, 
 but help us to pleafanter Inftruments than are now 
 in ufe. By the Appearance they make in Marbla, 
 there is not one String-Inftrument that feems com- 
 parable to our Violins, for they are all play’d on, 
 either by the bare Fingers, or the Plettrum , fo 
 that they were incapable of adding any length to 
 their Notes, or of varying them by thofe infenft- 
 ble Swellings, and wearings away of Sound upon 
 the fame String, which give fo wonderful a fweet- 
 nefs to our modern Mufick. Befides, that the String- 
 Inftruments muft have had very low and feeble 
 Voices, as may be guefs’d from the fmall Pro- 
 portion of Wood about them,, which could not 
 contain Air enough to render the Strokes, in any 
 confiderable meafure, full and fonorous. There 
 is a great deal of difference in the Make, not on- 
 ly of the feveral kinds of Inftruments, but even 
 among thofe of the fame Name. The Syringa, 
 for Example, has fometimes four, and fometimes 
 more Pipes, as high as to twelve. c The fame va- 
 riety of Strings may be obferved on their Elarps, 
 and of Stops on their Tibia ; , which fhows the 
 
 little. 
 
188 ROM E. 
 
 little Foundation that fuch Writers have gone up- 
 on, who from a Verfe perhaps in Virgil’s Eclogues, 
 or a fhort PafTage in a Clajjic Author, have been |i 
 fo very nice in determining the precile Shape of ] 
 the ancient Mufical Inftruments, with the exa£f | 
 Number of their Pipes, Strings, and Stops. It 1 
 is indeed the ufual Fault of the Writers of An- 1 
 tiquities, to ftraiten and confine themfelves to 
 particular Models. They are for making -a kind | 
 of Stamp on every thing of the lame Name, and I 
 if they find any thing like an old Defcription of 
 the Subject they treat on, they take care to regu- I 
 late it on all Ocean ms, according to the Figure 
 it makes in fuch a PafTage : As the learned Ger- I 
 man Author, quoted by Monfieur Baudelot , who j 
 had probably never feen any thing of a Houfhold- ; 
 God, more than a Canopus , affirms roundly, that J 
 all the anc^nt Lares were made in the Fafhion > 
 of a Jug-Bo; tie. In fhort, the Antiquaries have j 
 been guilty of the fame Fault as the Syftem- 1 
 Writers, who are for cramping their Subjects into 
 as narrow a Space as they can, and for reducing 
 the whole Extent of a Science into a few general J 
 Maxims. This a Man has occafion of obferving I 
 more than once, in the feveral Fragments of An- 
 tiquity that are {fill to be feen in Rome. '"How j 
 many Drefies are there for each particular Deity ? j 
 What a Variety of Shapes in the ancient Urns, 
 Lamps, Lachrymary VefTels, Priapus’s , Houf- 
 hold-Gods, which have fome of them been repre- 
 fented under fuch a particular Form, as any one 
 of them has been deferib’d with in an ancient Au- 
 thor, and would probably be all fo, were they 
 not ftill to be feen in their own Vindication ? 
 Madam Dacier, from fome old Cuts of Terence , 
 
 fan Ties 
 
JR. O M E. 289 
 
 fanfies, that the Larva or Perfona of the Roman 
 A£tors, was not only a Vizard for the Face, b it 
 had falfe Hair to it, and came over the whole 
 I Head like a Helmet. Among all the Statues at 
 I Rome , I remember to have feen but two that are 
 the Figures of A£k>rs, which are both in the Villa 
 \ Matthei. One fees on ’em the Fafhion of the old 
 i Sock and Larva , the latter of which anfwers the 
 Defcriffion that is given of it by this learned Lady, 
 
 I tho’ I queftion not but feveral others were in ufe ; 
 for I have feen the Figure of Thalia , the Comic 
 Mufe, fometimes with an entire Head-piece in her 
 Hand, fometimes with about half the Head, and a 
 little Friz, like a Tower, running round the 
 Edges of the Face, and fometimes with a Mask for 
 the Face only, like thofe of a modern Make. Some 
 of the Italian Actors wear at prefent thefe Masks 
 for the whole Head. I remember formerly I could 
 have no Notion of that Fable in Phcedrus , before I 
 had feen the Figures of thefe entire Head-pieces. 
 
 Perfonam Tragicam forte Vulpes viderat: 
 
 O Quanta Species , inquit , cerebrum non habet / 
 
 L. 1. Fab. 7. 
 
 , As wily Renard walk’d the Streets at Night, 
 
 On a T ragedian’s Mask he chanc’d to light $ 
 Turning it o’er he mutter’d with Difdain, 
 iHow vaft a Head is here without a Brain ! 
 
 I find Madam Dacier has taken notice of this 
 Paflage in Phadrus , upon the fame Occasion ; but 
 not of the following one in Martial , which alludes 
 to the fame kind of Masks, ( 
 
xgo 
 
 ROME. 
 
 Non omnes fallis, felt te Proferpina canum ; 
 
 Perfonam capiti detrahet ilia tuo. 
 
 L.3. Ep. 43; 
 
 Why fhould’ft thou try to hide thy felf in Youth? 
 Impartial Proferpine beholds the -Truth, 
 
 And laughing at fo fond and vain a Task, 
 
 Will {trip thy hoary Noddle of its Mask. 
 
 © 
 
 In the Villa Borghcfe is the Buft of a young Nero^ 1 
 which (hows us the Form of an ancient Bulla on | 
 the Breaft, which is neither like a Heart, as Ma- ^ 
 crobius deferibes it, nor altogether refembles that in | 
 Cardinal Chigi 's Cabinet; fo that without eftablifh- J 
 ing a particular Inftance into a general Rule, we 
 ought, in Subjects of this Nature, to leave Room 
 for the Humour of the Artift or Wearer. There 
 are many Figures of Gladiators at Rome , tho’ I 
 don’t remember to have feen any of the Retiarius , 
 the Samnite , or the Antagonift to the Pinnirapus . s 
 But what I could not find among the Statues, I met 
 with in two Antique Pieces of Mofaic, which are 
 in the Pofieffion of a Cardinal. T he Retiarius is 
 engag’d with the Samnite , and has had fo lucky a 
 throw, that his Net covers the whole Body of his 
 Adversary from Head to Foot, yet his Antagonift 
 recover’d himfelf out of the Toils, and was Con- 
 queror, according to the Inscription. In another 
 Piece is reprefented the Combat of the Pinnirapus , j 
 who is arm’d like the Samnite , and not like the Re- j 
 tiarius as fome learned Men have fuppofed : On the 
 Helmet of his Antagonift are feen the two P inn<e , 
 that ftand up on either Side like the Wings in the j 
 Petafus of a Mercury , but rife much higher, and 
 are more pointed. 
 
 There 
 
ROME. r 9I 
 
 There is no part of the ' Roman Antiquities that 
 •we are better acquainted with, than what relates 
 fto their 'acrifx Cor as the old Romans were 
 very much devoted to their Religion, we fee fe- 
 vp ral Parts of it entering their ancient BaJJb Re- 
 hrao% Statues, and Medals, not to mention their 
 .Altars, Tombs, Monuments, and thoie particu- 
 lar Ornaments of Architecture, which were bor- 
 | row’d from it. An Heathen Ritual could not in- 
 ftrudf a Man better than thefe feveral Pieces of 
 I Antiquity, in the particular Ceremonies and Pundti- 
 lio’s that attended the different kinds of Sacrifices. 
 Yet there is a much greater Variety in the Make 
 of the Sacrificing Inftruments, than one finds in 
 | thofe who have treated of them, or have given us 
 their Pictures. For not to infift too long on fuch 
 p Subjeft, I faw in Signior Antonio Poliii’s Collec- 
 tion a Patera without any rifing in the middle, 
 as it is generally Engraven, and another with a 
 Handle to it, as Macrobius defcribes it, tho’ it is 
 quite contrary to any that I have ever feen cut in 
 Marble ; and I have obferved perhaps feveral Hun- 
 dreds. I might here enlarge on the Shape of the 
 jtriumphal Chariot, which is different in feme Pieces 
 of Sculpture from what it appears in others ; and on 
 the Figure of the Di/cus, that is to be feen in the 
 [Hand of the celebrated Cajior at DonZzWs, which 
 is perfectly round, and not oblong, as fome Anti- 
 quaries have reprefented it, nor has it any thing like 
 a Sling fatten’d to it, to add force to the tofs. 
 
 Protinus imprudens , attufque cupidine lufus 
 
 T filler e Teenarides orbem proper a bat 
 
 — De Hyacinthi difoo. Ov. Met. 
 
192 
 
 ROME . 
 
 Th’ unwary Youth, impatient for the Caff, 
 
 Went to fnatch up the rolling Orb in hafte. 
 
 Notwithftanding there are fo great a Multitude 
 of cloth’ d Statues at Rome , I could never dit- I 
 cover the feveral different Roman Garments, for 
 »tis very difficult to trace out the Figure of a Veit, 
 thro’ all the Plaits and Foldings of the Drapery ; 
 befides that the Roman Garments did not differ j! 
 from each other fo much by the Shape, as by the J 
 Embroidery' and Colour, the one of which was 
 too nice for the Statuary’s Observation, as the 
 other does not lie within the Expreffion of the j 
 Chiffel. I obfcrved, in abundance of Bas Rthefs , ; 
 that the Cin&us Gabinus is nothing elfe but a long ! 
 Garment, not unlike a Surplice, which _ would 
 have trail’d on the Ground had it hung loofe, and 
 was therefore gather’d about the middle with a 
 Girdle. After this it it worth while to read the 
 laborious Defcription that Ferrarius has made of 
 it. Cinftus Gabinus non aliud fuit qudm cum 
 topa lacinia lesvo brachio fubdufla in ter gum ita 
 reiiciebatur, ut cmtraEta retraheretur ad JeSius, 
 atque ita in nodum nedieretur ; qui nodus Jive cm- I 
 £ius top am contrahebat , brevioremque et Jindtioreui . 
 reddidit. De re Ve/tiar. L. 1. C. 14. Lipfius s 
 Defcription of the Samnite Armour, feems drawn 
 out of the very Words of Livy ; yet not long ago 
 a Statue, which was dug up at Rome, drefs’d in 
 this kind of Armour, gives a much different Ex- 
 nlication of Livy from what Lipfius has done. 
 This Figure was^ fuperfcrib’d BA.TO.NI. from 
 whence Fabretti concludes, that it was a Monu- 
 ment eredfed to the Gladiator Bato, who ^ after 
 having Succeeded in two Combats, was kill'd m 
 
ROME. i 9 j 
 
 the third, and honourably Interr’d by Order of the 
 Emperor Caracalla. The manner of Punctuation 
 after each Syllable is to be met with in other An- 
 tique Infcription3. I confefs I could never learn 
 where this Figure is now to be feen, but I think 
 it may ferve as an Inftance of the great Uncertain- 
 ty of this Science of Antiquities *. 
 
 In a Palace of Prince Cefarini I faw Bufts of all 
 the Antonine Family, which were dug up about 
 two Years fince, not far from Alb a no, in a Place 
 where is fuppofed to have flood a Villa of Marcus 
 Aurelius. There are the Heads of Antoninus Pius , 
 the Faujlina’s, Marcus Aurelius , Lucius Verus , a 
 young Commodus , and Annius Verus , all incompa- 
 rably v/ell cut. 
 
 Tho’ the Statues that have been found among 
 the Ruins of old Rome are already very numerous, 
 there is no queftion but Pofterity will have the Plea- 
 fure of feeing many noble Pieces of Sculpture which 
 are ftill undifeover’d, for doubtlefs there are greater 
 Treafuresof this nature under Ground, than what 
 are yet brought to Light. They have often dug 
 into Lands that are deferib’d in old Authors, as the 
 Places where fuch particular Statues as Obelisks 
 flood, and have feldom fail’d of Succefs in their 
 Purfuits. There are ftill many fuch promifmg Spots 
 of Ground that have never been fearched into. A 
 great part of the Palatine Mountain, for Example, 
 lies untouch’d, which was formerly the Seat of the 
 Imperial Palace, and may be prefum’d to abound 
 with more F reafures of this Nature than any other 
 Part of Rome. 
 
 * Vid. Fabr, de Colunma Trajani. 
 
 I Ecce 
 
194 ^ ^ ^ -E* 
 
 Ecce Palatino crcvit reverentia montl , 
 
 Exultatque habitant e Deo , potioraque Delphis 
 Supplicibus late pcpulis oracuh pandit. 
 
 Non alium certe decuit reftoribus orbis 
 EJJe Larem , nulloque magis fe colle^ potejlas 
 MJlimat et fummis fentit fajligia juris. 
 
 Jttollens apicem [ubjeftis regia rojlris 
 Tot circum delubra videt, tantifque Deorum 
 
 Cingitur excubiis .. 
 
 Claud, de Sexto Conlulat. Honorn.' 
 
 The Palatine , proud Rome’s Imperial Seat, 
 
 (An awful Pile !) ftands venerably Great : 
 
 Thither the Kingdoms and the Nations come. 
 
 In fupplicating Crouds to learn their Doom : 
 
 To Delphi lefs th’ enquiring Worlds repair, 
 
 Nor does a greater God inhabit there : 
 
 This fure the pompous Manfion was defign’d 
 To pleafe the mighty Rulers of Mankind ; 
 
 Inferior Temples rife on either Hand, 
 
 And on the Borders of the Palace Hand, 
 
 While o’er the reft her Head fhe proudly -rears. 
 
 And lodg’d amidft her Guardian Gods appears. 
 
 But whether it be that the richeft of thefe Difco- 
 veries fall into the Pope s Hands, or for fomc other 
 Reafon, it is faid that the Prince Famefe , who is 
 the prelent Owner of this Seat, will keep it from 
 beinw turn’d up ’till he fees one of his own Fa- 
 mily 5 in the Chair. There are Undertakers in Rome 
 who often purchafe the digging of Fields, Gardens, 
 or Vineyards, where they find any likelihood of fuc- 
 ceeding, and fome have been known to arrive at 
 great Eftates by it. They pay according to the Di- 
 menfions of the Surface they are to break up, and 
 
ROME. 195 
 
 after having made E flays into it, as they do for 
 Coal in England , they rake into the moil pro- 
 mifing Parts of it, tho’ they often find, to their Dif- 
 appointment, that - others have been beforehand 
 with ’em. However they generally gain enough 
 by the Rubbifh and Bricks, which the prefent Ar- 
 chitects value much beyond thofe of a modern 
 Make, to defray the Charges of their Search. I was 
 fhown two Spaces of Ground, where Part of 'Ne- 
 ro’s Golden Houfe flood, for which the Owner 
 has been offer’d an extraordinary Sum of Money. 
 What encourag’d the Undertakers are feveral ve- 
 ry ancient Trees, which grow upon the Spot, 
 from whence they conclude that thefe particular 
 Tracts of Ground muft have lain untouch’d for 
 fome Ages. ’Tis pity there is not fomething like 
 a publick Regifter, to preferve the Memory of 
 fuch Statues as have been found from time to 
 time, and to mark the particular Places where 
 they have been taken up, which would not only 
 prevent many fruitlefs Searches for the future, 
 but might often give a confiderable Light into 
 the Quality of the Place, or the Defign of the 
 Statue. 
 
 But the great Magazine for all kinds of Treafure, 
 is fuppofed to be the Bed of the Tiber. We may be 
 lure, when the Romans lay under the Apprehenfi- 
 ons of feeing their City fack’d by a barbarous 
 Enemy, as they have done more than once, that 
 they would take care to beffow fuch of their 
 Riches this way as could beft bear the Water : 
 befides what the Infolence of a brutiffi Conque- 
 ror may be fuppofed to have contributed, who 
 had an Ambition to wafte and deftroy all the 
 Beauties of io celebrated a City. I need not men- 
 I 2 tion 
 
i9 6 ROME. 
 
 tion the old Common-fhore of Rome , which ran 
 from all Parts of the Town with the Current and 
 Violence of an ordinary River, nor the frequent 
 Inundations of the Tiber , which may have fwept 
 away many of the Ornaments of its Banks, nor the 
 feveral Statues that the Romans themfelves flung 
 into it, when they would revenge themfelves on 
 the Memory of an ill Citizen, a dead Tyrant, or a 
 difcarded Favourite. At Rome they have ..fo gene- 
 ral an Opinion of the Riches of this River, that 
 the Jews have formerly proffer’d the Pope to cleanfe 
 it,' fo they might have, for their Paints, what they 
 found in the Bofom of it. I have feen the Valley 
 near Ponte mclle , which they propos’d to faihion 
 into a new Channel for it, ’till they had clear’d the 
 old for its Reception. The Pope however would 
 not comply with the Propofal, as fearing the Heats 
 might advance too far before they had finifhed 
 their Work, and produce a Peftilence among his 
 People ; tho’ I don’t fee why fuch a Defign might 
 not be executed now with as little Danger as in 
 Augujlus's Time, were there as many Hands em- 
 ploy’d upon it. The City of Rome would receive a 
 great Advantage from the Undertaking, as it would ! 
 raife the Banks and deepen the Bed of the Tiber , j 
 and by Confequence free ’em from tbofe frequent 
 Inundations to which they are fo fubjed! at pre- j 
 fent \ for the Channel of the River is obferved to be 
 narrower within the Walls, than either below or 
 above them. 
 
 Before T quit this Subjedl of the Statues, I think 
 it very obfervable, that among thofe which are al- 
 ready found there fhould be fo many not only of 
 the fame Perfons, but made after the fame De- 
 iigti. One would- not indeed wonder to fee fe- 
 veral 
 
ROME . 197 
 
 vcral Figures of particular Deities and Emperors, 
 who had a Multitude of Temples erefted to ’em, 
 and had their feveral Sets of Worfbippers and Ad- 
 mirers. Thus Ceres , the moft beneficent and 
 ufeful of the Heathen Divinities, has more Sta- 
 tues than any other of the Gods or Goddehes, as 
 feveral of the Reman Empreffes took a Pleafure 
 to be reprefented in her Drefs. And I believe 
 one finds as many Figures of that excellent Em- 
 peror Marcus Aurelius, as of all the reft together ; 
 becaufe the Romans had fo great a Veneration for 
 his Memory, that it grew into a part of their Re- 
 ligion to preferve a Statue of him in almoft every 
 private Family. But how comes it to pafs, that lo 
 many of thefe Statues are cut after the very fame 
 Model, and not only of thefe, but of fuch as had 
 no Relation, either to the Intereft or Devotion of 
 the Owner, as the dying Cleopatra , the Narcij- 
 fus , the Fawn leaning againft the Trunk of a 
 Tree, the Boy with the Bird in his Hand, the 
 Leda and her Swan, with many others of the 
 fame Nature. I muft confefs I always look’d on 
 Figures of this kind, as the Copies of fome cele- 
 brated Mafter-piece, and queftion net but they 
 were famous Originals, that gave Rife to the fe- 
 veral Statues which we fee with the fame Air, 
 Pofture, and Attitudes : What confirms me in 
 this Conjecture, there are many ancient Statues 
 of the Venus de Medicis , the Silenus with the 
 young Bacchus in his Arms, the Hercules Far- 
 nefe , the Antinous , and other beautiful Originals of 
 the Ancients, that are already drawn out of the 
 Rubbilh, where they lay conceal’d for fo many 
 Ages. Among the reft I have obferved more that 
 are form’d after the Defign of the Venus of Me- 
 I 3 diets , 
 
198 ROM E. 
 
 dicis , than of any other, from whence I believe one 
 may conclude, that it was the moft celebrated Sta- 
 tue among the Ancients, as well as among the Mo- 
 derns. It has always been ufual for Sculptors to 
 work upon the beft Models, as it is for thofe that 
 are Curious to have Copies of them. 
 
 I am apt to think fomething of the fame Ac- 
 count may be given of the Refemblance that we 
 meet with in many of the Antique Bajfo Relievo's. 
 I remember I was very well pleafed with the De- 
 vice of one that I met with on the Tomb of a young 
 Roman Lady, which had been made for her by her 
 Mother. The Sculptor had chofen the Rape of 
 Proferpine for his Device, where in one End you 
 might fee the God of the Dead [Pluto) hurrying 
 away a beautiful young Virgin, ( Proferpine ) and 
 at the other the Grief and Diftradtion of the Mo- 
 ther (Ceres) on that Occafion. I have fmce obfer- 
 ved the fame Device upon feveral Sarcophagi , that 
 have inclos’d the Afhes of Men or Boys, Maids or 
 Matrons ; for when the Thought took, tho’ at 
 firft it received its Rife from fuch a particular Oc- 
 cafion as I have mention’d, the Ignorance of the 
 Sculptors apply ’d it promifcuoufly. I know there 
 are Authors who difcover a Myftery in this De- 
 vice. 
 
 A Man is fometimes furprifed to find fo many 
 extravagant Fancies as are cut on the old Pa- 
 gan Tombs. Masks, Hunting-matches, and Bac- 
 chanals are very common; fometimes one meets 
 with a lewd Figure of a Priapus, and in the Villa 
 Pa?nphilia is feen a Satyr coupling with a Goat. 
 There are however many of a more ferious Na- 
 ture, that fhadow out the Exiftence of the Soul 
 after Death, and the Hopes of a happy Immorta- 
 
lity 
 
 ROME. 199 
 
 I cannot leave the BaJJo Relievo’s without 
 
 mentioning one of ’em, where the Thought is ex- 
 tremely noble. It is call’d Homer’s Apotheofis , and. 
 confifts of a Groupe of Figures cut in the fame 
 Block of Marble, and rifing one above another by 
 four or five different Afcents. Jupiter fits at the 
 Top of it with a Thunderbolt in his Hand, and, 
 in fuch a Majefty as Homer himfelf reprefents him, 
 prefides over the Ceremony. 
 
 TtZyv ivpJs 7Ttt K oyvif'Vjj ctrsp « ptyov etAAQi'. 
 'AKfOrttTH ko 'O' o OvA vpiroiC' 
 
 Immediately beneath him are the Figures of 
 the nine Mufes, fuppos’d to be celebrating the 
 Praifes of the Poet. Homer himfelf is placed at 
 one End of the loweft Row, fitting in a Chair ot 
 State, which is fupported on each Side by the fi- 
 gure of a kneeling Woman. The one holds a Sword 
 in her Hand to reprefent the Iliad , or Adions of 
 Achilles , as the other has an Aplujlre to reprefent the 
 Odyffey , or Voyage of Ulyffes. About the Poet s feet 
 are creeping a Couple of Mice, as an ruble m 01 
 the Batracho-myomachia. Behind the Chair Panes 
 Time, and the Genius of the rtarth, dininguilh 
 by their proper Attributes, and putting a Garland 
 on the Poet’s Head, to intimate the mighty Re- 
 putation he has gain’d in all Ages, and in all Na- 
 tions of the World. Before him Hands an Altar 
 with a Bull ready to be facrific’d to the new God, 
 and behind the Vi£tim a Train of the fcveral V11 
 tues that are reprefented in Homer’s Works, or 
 to be learnt out of them, lifting up their Hands 
 in Admiration of the Poet, and in Applaule 01 
 the Solemnity. This antique Piece of Sculpture 
 
 I 4 15 
 
200 
 
 ROME. 
 
 is in the Pofteftion of the Conftable Colonna , but ne- 
 ver fliown to thofe who fee the Palace, unlefs thev 
 particularly defire it. ^ 
 
 ^ Among the great Variety of ancient Coins 
 wmch I lav/ at Rome , I could not but take par- 
 ticular notice of fuch as relate to any of the 
 Buildings or Statues that are ftill extant. Thofe 
 of the firft kind have been already publifhed bv 
 the Writers of the Roman Antiquities, and may 
 be moft of them met with in the laft Edition of 
 
 ma ! us \ as t ^ e PiiBrs of Trajan and Antonine , 
 p he Arches of Drufus Germanicus , and Septimius 
 governs, the Temples of Janus, Concord , Vefta, 
 Jupiter tonansy Apollo and Faujlina , the Circus 
 Maximus , Agonalis , and that of Caracalla , or, ac- 
 cording to Fabretti, of Galienus , of Vefp a fian\ Am- 
 phitheatre, and Alexander Severus’ s Baths; tho’ 
 
 I mull confefs, the Subject of the laft may be’ 
 very well doubted of. As for the Meta fudans and 
 Rons Mims, which have gain’d a Place among 
 the Buildings that are now ftanding, and to be 
 met with on old Reverfes of Medals : The Coin 
 tnat fhows the firft is generally rejected as fpuri- 
 ous : nor is the other, tho’ cited in the laft Editi- 
 on of Monfieur Vaillanty efteem’d more Authen- 
 tick by the prefent Roman Medalifts, who arc 
 certainly the moft skilful in the world, as to the 
 mechanical Part of this Science. I fhall dole up 
 tms Set of Medals with a very curious one, as 
 large as a Medalion, that is fingular in its kind. 
 On one Side is the Head of the Emperor Trajan , 
 the Reverfe has on it the Circus Maximus, and a 
 lew . of the Side of the Palatine Mountain that 
 faces it, on which- are feen feveral Edifices, and 
 among the reft the famous Temple of Apollo, that 
 
 has 
 
ROME. 
 
 201 
 
 has {till a confrderable Ruin {landing. This Me- 
 dal I faw in the Hands of Monfeigneur Strozzi, 
 Brother to the Duke of that Name, who has 
 many Curiofities in his Po fie Ton, and is ver-- 
 obliging to a Stranger who defires the Sight or 
 ’em*" It is a furprifing thing, that among the 
 great Pieces of Architecture reprelented on the 
 eld Coins, one can never meet with the Pan- 
 the on. the Maufolenm of Augujhis , Nero s Gol- 
 den Houfe, the Moles Adrian /, the Septizomum 
 of Sever us, the Baths of Dioclefiah , &c. But 
 fmce it was the Cuftom of the Roman Em- 
 perors thus to Regifter their moft remarkable 
 Buildings, as well as Actions, and fmce there 
 are feveral in either of thefe kinds not to be 
 found on Medals, more extraordinary than thole, 
 that are, we may, I think, with, great reaion 
 fufpeO our Collections of the old Coins to be ex - 
 tremely deficient, and that thofe which are al- 
 ready ’ found out fcarce bear a Proportion to 
 what are yet undilcover’d. A Man takes a gi.eat 
 deal more' Pleafure in furveying the ancient Sta- 
 tues, who compares them with Medals, than it 
 is poflible for him to do . without fome little 
 Knowledge this way; for thefe two Arts lUui- 
 trate each other ; and as there are feveral Par- 
 ticulars in Hiftory and Antiquities which receive a 
 .rreat Light from ancient Coins, fo would it be 
 fm poflible to decipher the Faces of the many 
 Statues that are to be feen at Rome , without 19 
 univerfal a Key to them. It is this that teaches 
 to diftinguifh the Kings and Consuls, Emperois 
 and . Emprefles, the Deities and Virtues, with a 
 thoufand other Particulars relating to a Statuary, 
 and not to be learnt by any other Means. In the 
 Villa Pamphilia {lands the Statue of a Man in 
 * c T c Wo- 
 
202 ROM E. 
 
 Woman’s Clothes, which the Antiquaries do not 
 know what to make of, and therefore pafs it off for 
 an Hermaphrodite ; But a learn’d Medalift in Rome 
 has lately fix d it to Clodius , who is fo famous, for 
 havmg intruded into the Solemnities of the Bona Dea 
 
 m a 1 x/r°T rian J J? ablt ’ for one ^ ees the fame Features 
 and Make of Face in a Medal of the Clodian Fa- 
 mily. 
 
 I have feen on Coins the four fineff Figures per- 
 haps that are now extant : The Hercules Farnefe, 
 the Venus of Medicis , the Apollo in the Belvidere\ 
 
 ™ arcUS Aurelius on Horfeback 
 
 The oldeft Medel that the Firft appears upon is 
 
 ° ne ^.?°, mmodus ’ the Second on one of Fauftina, 
 tne 1 hird on one of Antoninus Pius , and the laft 
 .on one of Lucius Verus. We may conclude, I 
 think, from hence, that thefe Statues were ex- 
 tremely celebrated among the old Romans, or 
 they would never have been honoured with a 
 Place among the Emperor’s Coins. We may fur- 
 ther obferve, that all four of ’em make their firft 
 Appearance in the Antonine Family, for which 
 rea.orM am apt to think they are all of them the 
 Product of that Age. They would probably have 
 been mention d by Pliny the Naturalift, who liv’d 
 in the next Reign, lave one, before Antoninus 
 Pius had they been made in his Time. As for the 
 Brafen. rigure of Marcus Aurelius on Plorfeback 
 tnere is no doubt of its being of this Aee, tho’ I 
 mult confofs it. may be doubted, whether the 
 Medal I have cited reprefents it. All I can fay 
 for it is, that the Horfe and Man on the Medal 
 are in the fame Pofture as they are on the Sta- 
 tue, and that there is a Refemblance of Marcus 
 Aurelius s Face, for I have feen this Reverfe on 
 a Medahon of Don Lwio’s Cabinet, and much 
 
 more 
 
ROME. 203 ’ 
 
 more diftinaly in another very beautiful one, that is 
 in the Hands of Signior Marcus Antonio. It is ge- 
 nerally objected, that Lucius Verus would rather 
 have plac’d the Figure of himfelf on Horfeback up- 
 on the Reverfe of his own Coin, than tne b iguie of 
 Marcus Aurelius. "But it is very well known that 
 an Emperor often ftamp’d on his Coins the face 
 or Ornaments of his Collegue, as an Inftance 01 
 his Refpe£f or Friendfhip for him ; and we may 
 fuppofe Lucius Verus would omit no Opportunity of 
 doino- Honour to Marcus Aurelius , whom he rather 
 reve?d as his Father, than treated as his Partner 
 in the Empire. The Famous Antinous in the Bel- 
 videre muft have been made too about this Age, for 
 ' he dy’d towards the middle of Adrians, Reign, the 
 immediate Predeceffor of Antoninus Pius. This en- 
 tire Figure, tho’ not to be found in Medals, may 
 be feen in feveral precious Stones. Monfteur La 
 Chaufje, the Author of the Mufaum Romanum, 
 fhew’d me an Antinous that he has publifh d in his 
 laft Volume, cut in a Cornelian, which he values at 
 fifty Piftoles. It reprefents him in the Habit of a 
 Mercury, and is the fineft Intaglia that I ever faw. 
 
 Next to the Statues, there is nothing in Rome 
 more furprifing than that amazing Variety of an- 
 cient Pillars of fo many kinds of Marble. As 
 moft of the old Statues may be well fuppos’d to 
 have been cheaper to their firft Owners, than they 
 are to a modern Purchafer, feveral of the Pillars 
 are certainly rated at a much lower Price at pre- 
 fent than they were of old. For not to mention 
 what a hu°e Column of Granite, Serpentine, or 
 Porphyry muft have coft in the Quarry, or in its 
 Carriage from 1 Egypt to Rome, we may only confi- 
 der the great Difficulty of hewing it into any Form, 
 
204 ROM E. 
 
 and of giving it the due Turn, Proportion and 
 Polifli. It is well known how thefe forts of 
 Marble refill the Impreffions of fuch Inftruments 
 as are now in ufe. There is indeed a Milanese at 
 Rome who works in them, but his Advances are 
 fo very flow, that he fcarce lives upon what he 
 gains by it. He fhow’d me a Piece of Porpyhry 
 work’d into an ordinary Salver, which had colt 
 him four Months continual Application, before he 
 could bring it into that Form. The Ancients had 
 probably feme Secret to harden the Edges of their 
 I ools, without recurring to thofe extravagant 
 Opinions of their having an Art to mollify the 
 Stone, or that it was naturally fofter at its firfl 
 cutting from the Rock; or what is Hill more ab- 
 surd, that it was an artificial Compofition, and 
 not the natural Produft of Mines and Quarries. 
 The moft valuable Pillars about Rome-y lor the 
 Marble of which they are made, are the four Co- 
 lumns of Oriental Jafper in St. Paulina’ s Chapel 
 at St. Maria Maggiore ; two of Oriental Granite 
 in St. Pudenziana ; one of tranfparent Oriental 
 Jafper in the Vatican Library ; four of Nero-Bi- 
 anco in St. Cecilia Trans-tevere ; two of Brcca- 
 tello., and two of Oriental Agate in Don Livid’ s 
 Palace ; two of Giallo Antico in St. John Lateran , 
 and two of Verdi Antique in the Villa Pamphilia. 
 Fhefe are all entire and folid Pillars, and made of 
 fuch kinds of Marble as are no where to be found 
 but among Antiquities, whether it be that the 
 Veins of it are undifeover’d, or that they were 
 quite exhaufted upon the ancient Buildings. A- 
 mong thefe old Pillars I cannot forbear reckon- 
 ing a great Part of an Alabafter Column, which 
 was found in the Ruins of Livid 1 s Portico. It is 
 
 of 
 
ROME. 205 
 
 cf the Colour of Fire, and may be feen over the 
 high Altar of St. Maria in Campitello , for they have 
 cut it into two Pieces, and fix’d it in the Shape 
 of a Crofs in -a Hole of the Wall that was made 
 on purpofe to receive it ; fo that the Light paf- 
 fino- thro’ it from without, makes it look, to thofe 
 who are in the Church, like a huge tranfparent 
 Crofs of Amber. As for the Workmanfhip of 
 the old Roman Pillars, Monfieur Defgodetz , in 
 his accurate Meafures of thefe Ruins has obfer- 
 ved, that the Ancients have not kept to the nicety 
 of Proportion, and the Rules of Art, fo much as 
 the Moderns in this particular. Some, to excufe 
 this Defedt, lay the blame of it on the Workmen 
 of /Fgypt , and of other Nations, who fent mod 
 of the ancient Pillars ready ftiap’d to Rome : Others 
 fay that the Ancients, knowing Architedlure was 
 chiefly defign’d to pleafe the Eye, only took care 
 to avoid fuch Difproportions as were grofs enough 
 to be obferv’d by the Sight, without minding 
 whether or no they approach’d to a Mathematical 
 Exadtnefs: Others will have it rather to be an 
 eff’eft of Art, and of what the Italians call the 
 Gufto grande , than of any Negligence in the Ar- 
 chitedt ; for they fay the Ancients always confi- 
 der’d the Situation of a Building, whether it were 
 high or low, in an open Square or in a narrow 
 Street, and more or lei's deviated from their Rules 
 of Art, to comply with the feveral Difiances and 
 Elevations from which their Works were to be 
 regarded. It is faid there is an Ionic 1 illar in 
 the Santa Maria Tranjlevere , where the Marks 
 of the Compafs are ft ill to be feen on the Volute, 
 and that Palladio learnt from hence the working 
 of that difficult Problem ; but I never could find 
 
 time 
 
2 o 6 ROME. 
 
 time to examine all the old Columns of that 
 Church. Among the Pillars I muft not pafs over 
 the two nobleft in the World, thofe of Trajan and 
 Antonine. There could not have been a more 
 magnificent Defign than that of T rajan’s Pillar. 
 Where could an Emperor’s Allies have been fo 
 nobly lodg’d, as in the midft of his Metropolis, 
 and on the top of fo exalted a Monument, with 
 the greateft of his Actions underneath him ? Or, as 
 fome will have it, his Statue was on the Top,’ his 
 Urn at the Foundation, and his Battles in the 
 midft. The Sculpture of it is too well known to 
 be here mention’d. The moft remarkable Piece 
 in Antonine' s Pillar is the Figure of Jupiter Plu~ 
 VIUS, fending down Rain on the fainting Army of 
 Marcus Aurelius , and Thunderbolts on his Ene- 
 mies, which is the greateft Confirmation poftible 
 of the Story of the Chriftian Legion, and will be 
 a ftanding Evidence for it, when any PaiTa^e in 
 an old Author may be fuppofed to be ibrged 
 The Figure that Jupiter here makes amon~ the 
 Clouds, puts me in mind of a Paflage in the /E- 
 neid , which gives juft fuch another Image of him. 
 Virgil’s Interpreters are certainly to blame, that 
 fuppofe it is nothing but the Air which is hers 
 meant by Jupiter . 
 
 Sjuantus ab occafu veniens pluvialibus hcedis 
 Verberat imber bumum , qudm multd grandine nimbi 
 In *vada precipitant^ quum Jupiter horridas av.firis 
 Torquet aquofam byemem , et ccelo cava mibila rumpit. 
 
 JEn. 9 . 
 
 The Combat thickens, like the Storm that flies 
 Prom Weftward, when the ftiow’ry Kids arife- 
 
 Or 
 
R O M E. 2ojr 
 
 Or patt’ring Hail comes pouring on the Main, 
 When Jupiter defcends in harden’d Rain, 
 
 Or bellowing Clouds burft with a ftormy Sound, 
 And with an armed Winter ftrew the Ground. 
 
 Dryden , 
 
 I have feen a Medal, that, according to the Opi- 
 nion of many learned Men, relates to the fame Story. 
 The Emperor is entitled on it Germanicus , (as it was 
 in the Wars of Germany that this Circumftance hap- 
 pened) and carries on the Reverfe a Thunderbolt in 
 his Hand ; for the Heathens attributed the fame Mi- 
 racle to the Piety of the Emperor, that the Chrifti- 
 ans afcribed to the Prayers of their Legion. Ful- 
 men de ccelo precibus fuis contra hojiium Machina- 
 mentum Marcus extorfit , fuis pluvia impetrata cum 
 fiti labor arent. Jul. Capit. 
 
 Claudian takes notice of this Miracle, and has 
 given the fame Reafon for it. 
 
 » - — Ad templa vocatus 
 
 Clemens Marc e redis , cum gentibus undique cinfiam 
 Exuit Hefperiam paribus fortuna periclis. 
 
 Laus ibi mdla ducum , nam flammeus imber in ho- 
 Jlem 
 
 Decid'd , hunc dorfo trepidum fumante ferebat 
 Ambujlus fonipes ; hie tabejeente folutus 
 Subfedit galea , liquefadtaque fulgure cufpis 
 Canduit , et fubitis f.uxeye <vaporibus enfes, 
 
 Dune, contenta polo , mortalis nefeia teli 
 Pugna fuit. Chaldcea mago feu carmina ritu 
 Ar mover e Deos: feu , quod rear , omne tonantis 
 ObJ'equium Marci mores potuere mereri, 
 
 De Sexto Conf. Hon, 
 
 So 
 
208 ROM E. 
 
 So mild Aurelius to the Gods repaid 
 
 The grateful Vows that in his Fears he made, 
 
 When Latium from unnumber’d Foes was freed : 
 
 Nor did he Then by his own Force fucceed ; 
 
 But with defending Show’rs of Brimftone fir’d, 
 
 The wild Barbarian in the Storm expir’d. 
 
 Wrapt in devouring Flames the Horfe-man rag’d, 
 
 And fpurr’d the Steed in equal Flames engag’d : 
 Another pent in his fcorch’d Armour glow’d, 
 
 While from his Head the melting Helmet flow’d ; 
 Sw'ords by the Lightning’s fubtile Force difiill’d. 
 
 And the cold Sheath with running Metal fill’d : 
 
 No human Arm its weak Aflifiance brought, 
 
 But Heav’n, offended Heav’n, the Battle fought; 
 Whether dark Magick and Chaldean Charms 
 Had fill’d the Skies, and fet the Gods in Arms ; 
 
 Or good Aurelius (as I more believe) 
 
 Deferv’d whatever Aid the Thunderer could give. 
 
 I do not remember that M. Dacier , among feve- 
 ral Quotations on this Subjedf, in the Life of Mar- 
 cus Aurelius, has taken notice, either of the fore- 
 mentioned Figure on the Pillar of Marcus Antoninus , 
 or of the beautiful Pafiage I have quoted out of Clau- 
 dian. 
 
 It is pity the Obelisks in Rome had not been 
 charged with feveral Parts of the /Egyptian Hi- 
 ftories inftead of Hieroglyphics, which might have '] 
 o-iven no fmall Light to the Antiquities of that 
 Nation, which are now quite funk out of fight . 
 in thofe remoter Ages of the World. Among the 
 triumphal Arches, that of Conjiantine is not only 
 the nobleft of any in Rome , buc in the World. 
 
 I fearch’d narrowly into it, efpeciaily among thofe 
 Additions of Sculpture made in the Emperor’s 
 
 own 
 
ROME. 209 
 
 own Age, to fee if I could find any Mark of the 
 Apparition, that is faid to have preceded the very 
 Victory which gave Occafion to the triumphal 
 Arch. But there are not the lead Traces of it to 
 be met with, which is not very ftrange, if we con- 
 fider that the greated Part of the Ornaments were 
 taken from Trajan ’ s Arch, and fet up to the new 
 Conqueror in no frnall hade, by the Senate and 
 People of Rctne , who were then moPr of them 
 Heathens. There is however fomething in the 
 Infcription, which is as old as the Arch it felf, 
 which feems to hint at the Emperor’s Vifion. 
 Imp. Ctef. FI. Conjlantino maxima P. F. Augufto 
 S. P. JK R. quod iridinCtu Divinitatis mentis mag- 
 nitudine cum exercifu fuo tarn de Tyranno quam 
 de omni ejus Fa A torn uno tempore juftis Rempubli- 
 cam ultus eft artnis arcum triumphs infignem di- 
 cavit . There is no Statue of this. Emperor at 
 Rome with a Crofs to it, tho’ the Eccleiiaftical 
 Hiftorians fay there were many fuch ereCted to 
 him. I have feen his Medals that were damp’d 
 with it, and a very remarkable one' of his Son 
 Conjlantius , where he is crown’d by a Victory on 
 the Reverie, with this Infcription, In hoc Signo 
 
 Vi Star eris. This triumphal Arch, and fome 
 
 other Buildings of the fame Age, fliow us that Ar- 
 chitecture held up its Head after all the other Arts 
 of Defigning were in a very weak and languifhing 
 Condition, as it was probably the fil'd among them 
 that revived. If I was furprifed not to find the 
 Crofs in Conjiantine’s. Arch, I was as much difap- 
 pointed not to fee the Figure of the Temple of 
 Jerufalem on that of Titus , where are reprefent- 
 ed the Colden Candledick, the Table of Shew- 
 bread, and the River Jordan. Some are of Opi- 
 nion, 
 
2 10 
 
 ROME. 
 
 nion, that the compofite Pillars of this Arch were 
 made in imitation of the Pillars of Solomon ’ s Tem- 
 ple, and obferve that thefe are the moft ancient of 
 any that are found of that Order. 
 
 It is almoft impoffible for a Man to form, in 
 his Imagination, fuch beautiful and glorious Scenes 
 as are to be met with in feveral of the Rotnan 
 Churches and Chapels ; for having fuch a pro- 
 digious Stock of ancient Marble within the very 
 City, and at the fame time fo many different 
 Quarries in the Bowels of their Country, moft of 
 their Chapels are laid over with fuch a rich Va- 
 riety of Incruftations, as cannot poflibly be found 
 in any other Part of the World. And notwith- 
 ftanding the incredible Sums of Money which 
 have been already laid out this way, there is ftill 
 the fame Work going forward in other Parts of 
 Rome, ■ he la ft ftill endeavouring to out-fhine thofe 
 tha went before them. Painting, Sculpture and 
 Architecture, are at prefent far from being in a 
 ftourifhing Condition, but ’tis thought they may 
 all recover themfelves under the prefent Pontifi- 
 cate, if the Wars and Confufions of Italy will 
 give them leave. For as the Pope is himfelf a 
 Mafter of polite Learning, and a great Encourager 
 of Arts, fo at Rome any of thefe Arts immediately 
 thrives under the Encouragement of the Prince, 
 and may be fetched up to its Perfection in ten or a 
 dozen Years, which is the Work of an Age or 
 two in other Countries, where they have not fuch 
 excellent Models to form themfelves upon. 
 
 X fhall conclude my Obfervations on Rome , 
 with a Letter of King Henry the Eighth to Anne 
 of Bullein , tranfcribed out of the famous Ma- 
 rmfcript in the Vatican , which the Bifhop of Sa- 
 lisbury 
 
ROME. 21 1 
 
 lisbury a (Tu res us is written with the King’s own 
 Hand. 
 
 “ The Caufe of my writing at this time is to 
 “ hear of your Health and Profperity, of which 
 “ I would be as glad as in a manner of my own, 
 « praying God that it be his Pleafure to fend us 
 “ Shortly together, for, I promife, I long for it; 
 “ howbeit I truft it (hall not be long too, and 
 « feeing my Darling is abfent, I can no .eis ^do 
 «« than fend her fome Flefti, prognofticating that 
 < 4 hereafter thou muft have fome of mine, whicn, 
 “ if he pleafe, I wou’d have now. As touching 
 « your Sifter’s Mother, I have coniign’d \ a “ er 
 “ JVelfh to write to my Lord Manwring my Mind 
 “ therein, whereby I truft he {hall not have Power 
 “ to diffeid her ; for furely, whatever is faid, it 
 <c cannot fo ftand with his Honour, but that he 
 muft needs take his natural Daughter in her 
 “ extreme Neceflity. No more to you at this 
 <c time, my own Darling, but that with a . huae 
 <c I wifh we were together one Evening 5 by the 
 
 “ Hand of Yours, 
 
 henry. 
 
 Thefe Letters are always fnown to an Englijhman 
 that vifits the Vatican Library. 
 
 TOWNS 
 
W N S 
 
 W ithin the Neighbourhood of 
 
 M £. 
 
 t three or four Days on Tivoli, 
 , Palejlrina and Albano. In 
 our way to 7 ivoli I faw the Rivulet 
 of Salforata , formerly call’d Albula, 
 and (melt the Stench that arifes from 
 , , . Waters fometime before I faw them. 
 
 Martial mentions this offenfive Smell in an Epigram 
 ot the fourth Book, as he does the Rivulet it felf 
 in the nrfh 
 
 SiPtod ficca: redolet lacus lacuna, 
 
 Crudarum nebula quod Albularum . L. 4. Ep. 4. 
 
 The drying Marfhes fuch a Stench convey, 
 ouch the rank Steams of reeking Albula. 
 
 Itur^ ad Here uka gelidas qua Tiburis arces, 
 
 Canaque fulpbureis Albula fumat aquis. 
 
 L. 1. Ep. 5. 
 
 As from high Rome to Tivoli you go. 
 
 Where Albula ’s fulphureous Waters flow. 
 
 The 
 
c Toiv7is 'within , &c. 2 1 3 
 
 The little Lake that gives Rife to this River, 
 with its floating Iflands, is one of the molt ex- 
 traordinary natural curiofities about Rome. It lies 
 in the very Flat of Campania, and as it is the 
 Drain of thefe Parts, ’tis no Wonder that it is fo 
 impregnated with Sulphur. It has at bottom lo 
 thick °a Sediment of it, that upon throwing in a 
 Stone the Water boils for a confiderable time over 
 the Place which has been flirr’d up. At the fame 
 time are feen little Flakes of Scurf rifling up, that 
 are probably the Parts which compofe the Iflands, 
 for they often mount of themfelves, tho’ the Wa- 
 ter is not troubled. 
 
 I queftion not but this Lake was formerly much 
 larger than it is at prefent, and that the Banks have 
 grown over it by degrees, in the fame manner as 
 the Iflands have been form’d on it. Nor is it 
 improbable but that, in procefs of time, the whole 
 Surface of it may be crufted over, as the Iflands 
 enlarge themfelves, and the Banks clofe in upon 
 therm All about the Lake, where the Ground 
 is dry, we found it to be hollow by the trampling 
 of our Horfes Feet. I could not difcover the 
 leaf! Traces of the Sibyls Temple and Grove, 
 which flood on the Borders of this Lake. ‘Tivoli 
 is feen at a diflance lying along the Brow of a 
 Hill. Its Situation has given Horace occafion to 
 call it Tibur Supinum , as Virgil perhaps for the 
 fame reafon entitles it Superbv.m. The Villa de~ 
 Medicis with its Water-works, the Ca'cade of 
 the T ever one, and the Ruins of the Sibyls 1 emple 
 (of which Vignola has made a little Copy at St. Pe- 
 ters de Moniorio ) are defcribed in every Itinerary. I 
 muft confefs I was moft pleafed with a beautiful 
 Profpedt that none of them have mention’d, which 
 .• lies 
 
214 ’Towns within the 
 
 lies at about a Mile diftance from the Town. It 
 opens on one Side into the Ro?nan Campania, where 
 the Eye lofes it felf on a fmooth fpacious Plain, j 
 On the other Side is a more broken and interrupt- 
 ed Scene, made up of an infinite Variety of Ine- I 
 qualities and Shadowings that naturally arife from f 
 an agreeable Mixture of Hills, Groves and Vallies. S 
 But the moft enlivening Part of all is the River I 
 Teverone , which you fee at about a quarter of a 1 
 Mile’s difiance throwing it felf down a Precipice, j; 
 and falling by feveral Cafcades from one Rock to 
 another, till it gains the Bottom of the Valley, where 
 the Sight of it would be quite loft, did not it fome- f 
 times difcover it felf thro’ the Breaks and Openings J 
 of the Woods that grow about it. The Roman j 
 Painters often work upon this Landskip, and lam 
 apt to believe that Horace had his Eye upon it in 
 thofe two or three beautiful Touches which he has 
 given us of thefe Seats. The Teverone was for- 
 merly call’d the Anio. 
 
 Me nec tam patiens Lacedamon , 
 
 Nec tam LariJJa percujjit campus opima , 
 
 £hiam domus Albunees refonantis , 
 
 Et prezceps Anio , et Tiburni Incus , et uda 
 
 Mobilibus pomari a rivis. L. r. Od. j. j 
 
 Not fair Lariffa’ s fruitful Shore, 
 
 Nor Lacedcemon , charms me more 
 Than high Albunea’s airy Walls, 
 
 Refounding with her Water-falls, 
 
 And Tivoli’s delightful Shades, 
 
 And Anio rolling in Cafcades, 
 
 That through the flow’ry Meadows glides 
 And all the beauteous Scene divides. 
 
 I remem- 
 
Neighbourhood of Rome. 215 
 
 I remember Monfieur Dacier explains Mobilibus 
 by Duftilibus , and believes that the Word relates 
 to the Conduits, Pipes and Canals that were made 
 to diftribute the Waters up and down, according 
 to the Pleafure of the Owner. But any one who 
 fees the T ever one muft be of another Opinion, and 
 conclude it to be one of the molt moveable Rivers 
 in the World, that has its Stream broken by fuch 
 a Multitude of Cafcades, and is fo often {Lifted 
 out of one Channel into another. After a very 
 turblilent and noify Courfe of feveral Miles among 
 the Rocks and Mountains, the Teverone falls into 
 the Valley before-mention’d, where it recovers its 
 Temper, as it were, by little , and little, and af- 
 ter many Turns and Windings glides peaceably 
 into the Tiber . In which Senfe we are to under- 
 hand Silius Italicus’s Description, to give it its pro- 
 per Beauty. 
 
 Sulpbureis gelidus qua ferpit leniter undis , 
 
 Ad genitorem Anio labens fine murmure Tibrim. 
 
 Here the loud Anio’s boift’rous Clamours ceafe. 
 That with fubmiflive Murmurs glides in Peace 
 To his old Sire the Tiber. 
 
 At Frefcati I had the Satisfa&ion of feeing the 
 firft Sketch of Verfailles in the Walks and Wa- 
 ter-works. The ProfpecSt from it was doubtlefs 
 much more delightful formerly, when the Cam- 
 pania was fet thick with Towns, Villas, and Plan- 
 tations. Cicero’s, Tufculum was at a Place call’d 
 Grotto Ferrate , about two Miles off this Town, 
 tho’ moft of the modern Writers have fix’d it to 
 Frefcati. Nardini fays, there was found among 
 
2 1 6 "Towns within the 
 
 the Ruins at Grotto Ferrate a Piece of Sculpture 
 which Cicero himfelf mentions in one of his famili- 
 ar Epiftles. In going to Frefcati we had a fair View 
 of Mount Algido. 
 
 On our Way to Palajlrina we faw the Lake 
 Regillus , famous for the Apparition of Cajior and 
 Pollux , who were here feen to give their Horfes 
 Drink after the Battle between the Remans and 
 the Son-in-Law of Far quin. At fome diftance 
 from it we had a View of the Lacus Gabinus , that 
 is much larger than the former. We left the 
 Road for about half a Mile to fee the Sources of 
 a modern Aquedudh It is entertaining to obferve 
 how the little Springs ar.d Rills that break out 
 of the Sides of the Mountain, are glean’d up, and 
 convey’d thro’ little cover’d Channels into the 
 main Hollow of the Aquedudl. It was certainly 
 very lucky for Rome , feeing it had Occafion for 
 fo many Aquedudfs, that there chanc’d to be fuch 
 a Range of Mountains within its Neighbourhood. 
 For by this means' they could take up their Water 
 from what height they pleafed, without the Ex- 
 pence of fuch an Engine as that of Marli. Thus 
 the Claudlan Aquedudl run thirty eight Miles, and 
 funk after the Proportion of five Foot and a half 
 every Mile, by the Advantage only of a high 
 Source and the low Situation of Rome. Pala- 
 jlrina hands very high, like molt other Towns in 
 Italy, for the Advantage of the cool Breezes, for 
 which Reafon Virgil calls it Altum , and Horace 
 Frigidum Prcenejle. Statius calls it Pranejle Sa- 
 crum , becaufe of the famous Temple of Fortune 
 that flood in it. There are ftill great Pillars of 
 Granite, and other Fragments of this ancient 
 Temple. But the moft conhderable Remnant of 
 
 it 
 
Neighbourhood of Rome. 2 1 y 
 
 it is a very beautiful Mcfaic Pavement, the finelt 
 I have ever feen in Marble. The Parts are fa 
 well join’d together, that the whole Piece looks 
 like a continu’d Pi&ure. There are in it the Fi- 
 gures of a Rhinoceros, of Elephants, and of feve- 
 ral other Animals, with little Landskips which 
 look very lively and well painted, tho’ they are 
 made out of the natural Colours and Shadows of 
 the Marble. I do not remember ever to have met 
 with an old Roman Mofaic , compofed of little 
 Pieces of Clay half vitrify’d, and prepar’d at the 
 Glafs-houfes, which the Italians call Smalte. 
 Thefe are much in ufe at prefent, and may be 
 made of what Colour and Figure the Work-man 
 pleafes, which is a modern Improvement of the 
 Art, and enables thofe who are employ’d in it to 
 make much finer Pieces of Mofaic than they did 
 formerly. 
 
 In our Excurfion to Alb an o we went as far as 
 Nemi, that takes its Name from the Nemus Diana:. 
 The whole Country thereabouts is fiill over-run 
 with Woods and Thickets. The Lake of Nemi 
 lies in a very deep Bottom, fo furrounded on all 
 Sides with Mountains and Groves, that the Surface 
 of it is never ruffled with the leafi: Breath of Wind, 
 which perhaps, together with the Clearnefs of its 
 Waters, gave it formerly the Name of Diana’s 
 Looking-glafs. 
 
 Spcculumque Diana. 
 
 Virg. 
 
 Prince Cafarini has a Palace at Jenfano , very 
 near Nemi , in a pleafant Situation, and let off with 
 many beautiful Walks. In our return from Jen- 
 
 K fan§ 
 
21% fawns within the 
 
 fano to Albano we palled through la Ricca, the 
 Ariel a of the Ancients, Horace’s firft Stage from 
 Rome to Brundiji. There is nothing at Albano fo 
 remarkable as the Profpedt from the Capucins Gar- 
 den, which for the Extent and Variety of pleafing 
 Incidents is, I think, the moft delightful one that I 
 ever faw. It takes in the whole Campania , and 
 terminates in a full View of the Mediterranean. 
 You have a Sight at the fame time of the Alban 
 jLake, which lies juft by in an Oval Figure of a- 
 bout feven Miles round, and, by reafon of the con- 
 tinu’d Circuit of high Mountains that encompafs it, 
 looks like the Area of fome vaft Amphitheatre. 
 This, together with the feveral green Hills and naked 
 Rocks, within the Neighbourhood, makes the moft 
 agreeable Confufion imaginable. Albano keeps up 
 its Credit ftill for Wine, which perhaps would be 
 as good as it was anciently did they preferve it 
 to as great an Age ; but as for Olives there are now 
 very few here, tho’ they are in great Plenty at 
 'Tivoli i 
 
 _ — Albani pretiofa fencdlus. Juv. Sat. 13. 
 
 Cras bibet Albanis aliquid de niontibus aut de 
 Setinis , cujus patriam titulumque SeneElus 
 Delevit multa veteris fuligine tefta. 
 
 Id. Sat. 5. 
 
 Perhaps to-morrow he may change his Wine, 
 
 And drink old fparkling Alban , or Setine ; 
 
 Whofe Title, and whole Age, with Mould o’er- 
 grown, 
 
 The good old Cask for ever keeps unknown. 
 
 Mr. Bowles. 
 
'Neighbourhood of Rome. 2 1 9 
 
 Palladia feu collibus uteris Alba. 
 
 Mar. L. 5. E. r. 
 Id. L.9.E.16. 
 
 Albany 
 
 Olives. 
 
 The Places mention’d in this Chapter were all of 
 them formerly the cool Retirements of the Romans 
 where they ufed to hide themfelves among the 
 Woods and Mountains, during the exceflive Heats 
 of their Summer 3 as Baia was the general Winter 
 Rendezvous. 
 
 Jam terras volucremque polumfuga veris Aquofi 
 Laxat , et Icariis caelum latratibus urit. 
 
 Ardua jam denfa rarefeunt mcenia Roma : 
 
 Hos P rcsnejle facrum , nemus hos glaciale Diana 
 Algidus aut barrens , aut Tufcula protegit Umbra * 
 Tiburis hi lucos , Anienaque frigora captant. 
 
 All fliun the raging Dog-Star’s fultry Heat, 
 And from the half-unpeopled Town retreat : 
 Some hid in Nemi’s gloomy Forefts lie 
 To P alejlrina fome for Shelter fly ; 
 
 Others to catch the Breeze of breathing Air, 
 1 o Tufculum or Algido repair ; 
 
 Or in moift Tivoli’s Retirements find 
 A cooling Shade, and a refrelhing Wind. 
 
 j tot quod V irgineo cruore gaudet 
 Anna pomiferum nemus Perennce. 
 
 M. L. 1. E. 123, 
 
 K 2 
 
 On 
 
220 Towns within the 
 
 On the contrary, at prefent, Rome is never ful- 
 ler of Nobility than in Summer-time ; for the 
 Country Towns are fo infefted with unwhol- 
 fom Vapours, that they dare not truft themfelves 
 in them while the Heats laft. There is no quef- 
 tion but the Air of the Campania would be now 
 as healthful as it was formerly, were there as many 
 Fires burning in it, and as many Inhabitants to 
 manure the Soil. Leaving Rome about the latter 
 end' of October, in my Way to Sienna , I lay the 
 firft Night at a little Village in the Territories of the 
 ancient Feu. 
 
 H<ec turn norriina erant , nunc funt fine nomine 
 Campi. 
 
 The Ruins of their Capital City are at prefent fo 
 far loft, that the Geographers are not able to deter- 
 mine exa&ly the Place where they once ftood : So 
 literally is that noble Prophefy of Lucan fulfill’d, 
 of this and other Places of Latium. 
 
 Gentes Mars ijiefuturas 
 
 Obruet , et populos avi venientis in orbem 
 Erepto , natale feret ; tunc omne Latinum 
 Fabula nomen erit : G alios Veiofque , Coramque 
 Pulvere vix tetta poterunt monjirare ruince , 
 Albanojque lares , Laurentinofque penates , 
 
 Rus vacuum , quod non habitet nifi nocle coact d 
 Jnvitus - • — — — — — — L. 7, 
 
 Succeeding Nations by the Sword {hall die, 
 
 And fwallow’d up in dark Oblivion lie ; 
 
 Almighty Latium with her Cities crown’d. 
 
 Shall like an antiquated Fable found ; 
 
 The 
 
Neighbourhood of Rome. 221 
 
 The Ve'ian and the Gabian Tow’rs {hall fall. 
 
 And one promifcuous Ruin cover all, 
 
 Nor, after length of Years, a Stone betray 
 The Place where once the very Ruins lav : 
 
 High Jlba’s Walls and the Lavinian Strand, 
 
 (A lonely Defart, and an empty Land) 
 
 Shall fcarce- afford, for needful Hours of Reft, 
 
 A fingle Houfe to their benighted Gueft. 
 
 We here faw the Lake Bacca , that gives R.ife 
 to the Cremera , on whole Banks the Fabii were 
 {lain. 
 
 ! Tercentum numerabat avcs , quos turbine Martis , 
 Abjiulit una Dies , cum fors non aqua labori 
 Patricio Cremera maculavit fanguine ripas » 
 
 Sil. It. L. 1. 
 
 Fabius a num’rous Anceftry could tell, 
 
 Three hundred Heroes that in Battle fell, 
 
 Near the fam’d Cremera '’ s difaft’rous Flood, 
 
 That ran polluted with Patrician Blood. 
 
 We faw afterwards, in the Progrefs of our 
 Voyage, the Lakes of Vico and Bolfena. The laft 
 is reckon’d one and twenty Miles in Circuit, and 
 is plentifully flock’d with Fifh and Fowl. There 
 are in it a couple of I Hands, that are perhaps the 
 two floating Ifles mentioned by Pliny , with that 
 improbable Circumflance of their appearing fome- 
 times like a Circle, and fometimes like a Triangle, 
 but never like a Quadrangle. It is eafy enough to 
 conceive how they might become fix’d, tho’ they 
 once floated ; and it is not very credible, that the 
 Naturalift could be deceived in his Account of a 
 K 3 Place 
 
222 ( T owns wi thin the 
 
 Place that lay, as it were, in the Neighbourhood of 
 Rome. At the end of this Lake ftands Montefiaf- 
 cone , the Habitation of Virgil’s /. Equi Falifci , JEn. 7. 
 and on the Side of it the Town of the Volftnians 9 
 now call’d Bolfena . 
 
 Aut pofitis nemorofa inter juga Volfiniis. 
 
 Juv. Sat. 3. | 
 
 Volfmium flood 
 
 Cover’d with Mountains, and inclos’d with Wood. 
 
 I faw in the Church-yard of Bolfena an antique 
 Funeral Monument (of that kind which they cal- 
 led a Sarcophagus ) very entire, and what is par- 
 ticular, engraven on all Sides with a curious Re- 
 prefentation of a Bacchanal. Had the Inhabitants 
 obferved a couple of lewd Figures at one End of 
 it, they would not have thought it a proper Orna- 
 ment for the Place where it now ftands. After 
 having travell’d hence to Aquapendente , that ftands 
 in a wonderful pleafant Situation, we came to 
 the little Brook which feparates the Pope’s Do- 
 minions from the Great Duke’s. The Frontier 
 Caftle of Radicofani is feated on the higheft Moun- 
 tain in the Country, and is as well fortify’d as the 
 Situation of the Place will permit. We here found 
 the natural Face of the Country quite changed 
 from what we had been entertain’d with in the 
 Pope’s Dominions. For inftead of the many beau- 
 tiful Scenes of green Mountains and fruitful Val- 
 lies, that we had been prefented with for fome 
 Days before, we faw now nothing but a wild naked 
 Profpedf of Rocks and Hills, worn out on all Sides 
 with Gutters and Channels, and not a Tree or 
 
 Shrub 
 
Neighbourhood of Rome, 2 23 
 
 Shrub to be met with in a vaft Circuit of feveraf 
 Miles. This ravage Profpecft put me in mind o* 
 the Italian Proverb, that The Pope has the Flejh , and 
 the Great Duke the Bones of Italy. Among a large 
 Extent of thefe barren Mountains I faw but a Angle 
 Spot that was cultivated, on which there flood x 
 Convent, 
 
SIENNA 
 
 LEGHORN E, 
 
 EISA. 
 
 1 E N N A Hands high, and is a- 
 dom’d with a great many Towers 
 of Brick, which in the Time of the 
 wllwl Commonwealth were erected to fuch 
 cf the Members as had done any 
 confiderable Service to their Coun- 
 try. Thefe Towers gave us a Sight of the Town 
 a great while before we enter’d it. There is no- 
 thing in this City fo extraordinary as the Cathe- 
 dral, which a Man may view with Pleafure af- 
 ter he has feen St. Peter’s , tho’ ’tis quite of ano- 
 ther Make, and can only be look’d upon as one of 
 the Matter- pieces of Gothic Architecture. When 
 a Man fees the prodigious Pains and Expence 
 that our Forefathers have been at in thefe barba- 
 rous Buildings, one cannot but fanfy to himfelf 
 what Miracles of Architecture they would have 
 left us, had they only been inftruCted in the right 
 way ; for when the Devotion of thofe Ages was 
 much warmer than it is at prefent, and the Riches of 
 the People much more at the Difpofal of the Priefts, 
 
 there 
 
Sienna , Leghorne , Pifa. 225 
 
 there was fo much Money confum’d on thefe GV 
 thic Cathedrals, as would have finilh’d a greater 
 Variety of noble Buildings, than have been rant, i 
 either before or fince that time. 
 
 One would wonder to fee the vaft Labour Brat 
 has been laid out on this {ingle Cathedral. The 
 very Spouts are loaden with Ornaments, the Win- 
 dows are form’d like fo many Scenes of Perfpec- 
 • tive, with a Multitude of little Pillars retiring one 
 behind another, the great Columns are finely en- 
 graven with Fruits and Foliage that run twilling 
 about them from the very 1'op to the Bottom, 
 the whole Body of the Church is checquer’d with 
 different Lays of 'white and black IVIarble, the 
 Pavement curioufly cut out in Defigns and Scrip- 
 ture-Stories, and the Front cover’d with fuch a 
 Variety of Figures, and over-run with fo many 
 little Mazes and Labyrinths of Sculpture, that no- 
 thing in the World can make a prettier Shew to 
 thofe who prefer falfe Beauties, and affected Or- 
 naments, to a Noble and Majeftick Simplicity. 
 Over-againft this Church Hands a large Hofpi- 
 tal, erefted by a Shoe-maker, who has been Bea- 
 tify’d, tho’ never Sainted. There Hands a Fi- 
 gure, of him fuperferib’d, Sutor ultra Crepidam. 1 
 Avail fpeak nothing of the Extent of this City, the 
 Cleanlinefs of its Streets, nor the Beauty ot its 
 Piazza, which fo many T ravellers have deferib’d. 
 As this is the laft Republick that fell under the 
 Subjection of the Duke of Florence , fo is it Hill 
 fuppofed to retain many Hankerings aftei its anci- 
 ent Liberty : For this Reafon, when the Keys and 
 Pageants of the Duke’s Towns and Governments 
 pats in Proceffion before him, on St. 'John Bap- 
 tiff’s Day, I was told that Sienna comes in the 
 
 K 5 Rear 
 
226 Sienna , Leghorn * , Pifa . 
 
 Rear of his Dominions, and is pufh’d forward by 
 thofe that follow, to dhow the Reludtancy it has 
 to appear in fuch a Solemnity. I {ball fay nothing 
 of the many grofs and abfurd Traditions of St. Ca- 
 tharine of Sienna , who is the great Saint of this 
 Place. I think there is as much Pleafure in hear- 
 ing a Man tell his Dreams, as in reading Accounts 
 of this Nature : A Traveller, that thinks them 
 worth his Obfervation, may fill a Book with them i 
 at every great T own in Italy. 
 
 From Sienna we went forward to Leghorne , 
 where the two Ports, the Bagnio, and Donatelli s 
 Statue of the Great Duke, amidft the four Slaves 
 chain’d to his Pedefial, are very noble Sights. The 
 Square is one of the largeft, and will be one of 
 the mod: beautiful in Italy, when this Statue is 
 erecled in it, and a Town-houfe built at one End 
 of it to front the Church that Hands at the other. 
 They are at a continual Expence to cleanfe the 
 Ports, and keep ’em from being choak’d up, which 
 they do by the help of feveral Engines that are al- 
 ways at work, and employ many of the Great 
 Duke’s Slaves. Whatever part of the Harbour 
 they fcoop in, it has an Influence on all the reft, for 
 the Sea immediately works the whole Bottom to 
 a Level. They draw a double Advantage from 
 the Dirt that is taken up, as it clears the Port, and 
 at the fame time dries up feveral Marches about 
 the Town, where they lay it from time to time. 
 One can fcarce imagine how great Profits the 
 Duke of Tufcany receives from this fingle Place, 
 which are not generally thought fo confiderable, 
 bccaufe it pafles for a free Port. But it is very 
 well known how the Great Duke, on a late occa- 
 fion, notwithstanding the Privileges of the Mer- 
 chants, 
 
Sterna, Leghome , Pifa. 227 
 
 chants, drew no fmall Sums of Money out of them ; 
 tho’ ft ill, in refpeft of the exorbitant Dues that 
 are paid at moft other Ports, it defervedly retains 
 the Name of Free. It brings into his Domini- 
 ons a great Increafe of People from all other Na- 
 tions. & They reckon in it near ten thoufand Jews, 
 many of them very Rich, and fo great Traffickers, 
 that our Englijh Factors complain they have moft 
 of our Country Trade in their Hands. ’Tis true 
 the Strangers pay little or no Taxes diredtly, but 
 out of every thing they buy there goes a large Ga- 
 bel to the Government. The very Ice- Merchant 
 at Leghome pays above a thoufand Pound Sterling 
 annually for his Privilege, and the Tobacco-Mer- 
 chant ten thoufand. The Ground is fold by the 
 Great Duke at a very high Price, and Houfes are 
 every Day rifing on it. All the Commodities that 
 o-o up into the Country, of which there are great 
 .Quantities, are clogg’d with Impofitions as foon as 
 they leave Leghome. All the Wines, Oils, and 
 Silks that come down from the fruitful Vallies of' 
 Pifa, Florence , and other Parts of Tufcany , muft 
 make their Way thro’ feveral Duties and Taxes 
 before they can reach the Port. The Canal that 
 runs from the Sea into the Amo gives a conve- 
 nient Carriage to all Goods that are to be fhipp’d 
 off, which does not a little enrich the Owners : 
 and in proportion as private Men grow weal- 
 thy, their Legacies, Law-Suits, Daughters Por- 
 tions, &c. increafe, in all which the Great Duke 
 comes in for a confiderable< Share. The Luc- - 
 quefe, who traffick at this Port, are faid to bring 
 in a great deal into the Duke’s Coffers. Another 
 Advantage, which may be of great ufe to him, is,* 
 that at five . or fix Days warning he might find ■ 
 
 Credit : 
 
228 Sienna, Leghorne , c Pifa. 
 
 Credit in this Town for very large Sums of 
 Money, which no other Prince in Italy can pre- 
 tend to. I need not take notice of the Reputa- 
 tion that this Port gives him among foreign 
 Princes, but there is one Benefit arifing from it, 
 which, tho’ never thrown into the Account, is 
 doubtlefs very confiderable. It is well known 
 how the Pifans and Florentines long regretted the 
 Lofs of their ancient Liberty, and their Subjection 
 to a Family that fome of them thought them- 
 felves equal to, in the flourifhirag Times of their 
 Commonwealths. The Town of Leghorne has ac- 
 cidentally done what the greateft Fetch of Poli- 
 ticks would have found difficult to . have brought 
 about, for it has almofi: unpeopled Pifa , if w ! e 
 compare it with what it was formerly, and every 
 Day lefiens the Number of the Inhabitants of Flo- 
 rence. This does not only weaken thofe Places, 
 but at the fame time turns many of their bufiefl 
 Spirits from their old notions of Honour and Li- 
 berty, to the Thoughts ofTraffick and Merchan- 
 dife : And as Men engag’d in a Road of Thriving 
 are no Friends to Changes and Revolutions, they 
 are at prefent worn into a Habit of Subje&ion, 
 and pufh all their Purfuits another way. it is no 
 wonder therefore that the Great Duke has fuch 
 Apprehenfions of the Pope’s making Chita Vec- 
 chia a Free Port, which may in time prove fo 
 very prejudicial to Leghorne. It would be thought 
 an improbable Story, ihould I fet down the feve- 
 ral Methods that are commonly reported to have 
 been made ufe of, during the laft Pontificate, to 
 put a flop to this Defign. The Great Duke’s 
 Money was fo well bellow'd in the Conclave, that 
 
 feveral 
 
Sienna , Leghorn e, Pifa. 229 
 
 feveral of the Cardinals diffuaded the Pope from 
 the Undertaking, and at laft turn’d all his 
 Thoughts upon the little Port which he made at 
 Aniium , near Nettuno. The chief Workmen that 
 were to have convey’d the Water to Civita Vecchia 
 were bought off, and when a poor Capuchin , that 
 was thought Proof againft all Bribes, had under- 
 taken to carry on the Work, he died a little after 
 he had enter’d upon it. The prefent Pope how- 
 ever, who is very well acquainted with the Secret 
 Hiftory, and the Weaknefs of his Predeceffor, feems 
 refolved to bring the Project to its Perfection. He 
 has already been at vaft Charges in hnifhing the 
 Aquedudt, and had fome Hopes that, if the War 
 fhould drive our Englijh Merchants from Sicily and 
 Naples , they would fettle here. His Holinels has 
 told fome Englijh Gentlemen, that thofe of our 
 Nation fhould have the greatefl Privileges of any 
 but the Subjects of the Church. One of our Coun- 
 trymen, who makes a good Figure at Rome , told me 
 the Pope has this Dehgn extremely at his Heart, 
 but that he fears the Englijh will fuffer nothing like 
 a Rehdent or Conful in his Dominions, the’ at the 
 fame time he hoped the Bufinefs might as well be 
 tranfadted by one that had no publick Character. 
 This Gentleman has fo bufied himfelfin the Affair, 
 that he has offended the French and Spanijh Cardi- 
 nals, infomuch that Cardinal Janfon refufed to fee 
 him when he would have made his Apology for 
 what he had faid to the Pope on this Subjedf. There 
 is one great Objection to Civita Vecchia , that the 
 Air of the Place is not wholfom ; but this they fay 
 proceeds from want of Inhabitants, the Air of Leg- 
 home having been worfe than this before the Town 
 was well peopled. 
 
 The 
 
230 Sienna, Leghorne, Pifa: 
 
 The great Profits which have accrued to the 
 Duke of Florence from his Free Port have fet fe- 
 veral of the States of Italy on the fame Projedf. 
 The moft likely to fucceed in it would be the Ge- 
 noefe, who lie more convenient than the Veneti- 
 ans , and have a more inviting Form of Govern- 
 ment than that of the Church, or that of Flo- 
 rence. But as the Port of Genoa is fo very ill 
 guarded again ft Storms, that no Privileges can 
 tempt the Merchants from Leghorne into it, fo 
 dare not the Genoefe make any other of their Ports 
 Free, left it fhould draw to it moft of their Com- 
 merce and Inhabitants, and by Confequence ruin 
 their chief City. 
 
 From Leghorne I went to Pifa , where there is 
 ftill the Shell of a great City, tho’ not half furnifh’d 
 with Inhabitants. The Great Church, Baptiftery, 
 and leaning Tower are very well worth feeing, and 
 are built after the fame Fancy with the Cathedral 
 of Sienna. Half a Day’s Journey more brought ms 
 into the Republick of Lucca. 
 
 THE 
 
THE 
 
 EPUBLICK 
 
 O F 
 
 LUCCA. 
 
 |T is very pleafant to fee how the 
 fmall Territories of this little Re- 
 publick are cultivated to the bed Ad- 
 vantage, fo that one cannot find the 
 lead: Spot of Ground, that is not 
 made to contribute its utmod to the 
 Owner. In all the Inhabitants there appears an 
 Air of Chearfulnefs and Plenty, not often to be 
 met with in thole of the Countries which lie about 
 ’em. There is but one Gate for Strangers to enter 
 at, that it may be known what Numbers of them 
 are in the Town. Over it is written in Letters of 
 Gold, Libert as . 
 
 This Republick is fhut up in the Great Duke’s 
 Dominions, who at prefent is very much incenfed 
 againd it, and feems to threaten it with the Fate 
 of Florence , Fija^ and Sienna, The Occafion as 
 follows. 
 
 The 
 
2^2 7 J he Republick of Lucca. 
 
 The Lucquefe plead Prefcription for Hunting 
 in one of the Duke’s Forefts, that lies upon their 
 Frontiers, which about two Years fince was ftriCt- 
 ly forbidden them, the Prince intending to pre- 
 ferve the Game for his own Pleafure. Two or 
 three Sportfmen of the Republick, who had the 
 Hardinefs to offend againfl the Prohibition, were 
 feized, and kept in a neighbouring Prifon. Their 
 Countrymen, to the number of threefcore, at- 
 tack’d the Place where they were kept in Cuftody, 
 and refcued them. The Great Duke redemands his 
 Prifoners, and, as a further Satisfaction, would 
 have the Governor of the Town, where the three- 
 fcore Affailants had combined together, deliver’d 
 into his Hands; but receiving only Excufes, he re- 
 folved to do himfelf Juftice. Accordingly he or- 
 der’d all the Lucquefe to be feiz’d that were found 
 on a Market -Day, in one of his Frontier Towns. 
 Thefe amounted to fourfcore, among whom were 
 Ferfons of fome Confequence in the Republick. 
 They are now in Prifon at Florence , and, as it is 
 faid, treated hardly enough, for there are fifteen of 
 the Number dead within lefsthan tw'o Years. The 
 King of Spain , who is ProteCtor of the Com- 
 monwealth, received Information from the Great 
 Duke of what had pafs’d, who approved of his 
 Proceedings, and order’d the Lucquefe , by his 
 Governor of Milan , to give a proper Satisfaction. 
 The Republick, thinking themfelves ill ufed by 
 their Protector, as they fay at Florence , have fent 
 to Prince Eugene to defire the Emperor’s Pro- 
 tection, with an Offer of Winter-Quarters, as it 
 is faid, for four thoufand Germans. The Great 
 Duke rifes on them in his Demands, and will not 
 be fatisfy’d with lefs than a hundred thoufand 
 
 Crowns, 
 
*The Republick of Lucca. 233 
 
 Crowns, and a folemn Ambafly to beg Pardon for 
 the paft, and promife Amendment for the fu- 
 ture. Thus {lands the Affair at prefent, that, may 
 end in the Ruin of the Commonwealth, if the 
 French fucceed in Italy. It is pleafant however 
 to hear the Difcourfe of the Common People of 
 Lucca , who are firmly perfuaded that one Luc- 
 quefe can beat five Florentines , who are grown 
 low-fpirited, as they pretend, by the Great Duke s 
 Oppreffions, and have nothing worth fighting for. 
 They fay they can bring into the bield twenty or 
 thirty thoufand fighting Men, all ready to facri- 
 fice their Lives for their Liberty. They have 
 Quantity of Arms and Ammunition, but few Horfe. 
 It muff be own’d thefe People are more happy, at 
 leaft in Imagination, than the reft of their Neigh- 
 bours, becaufe they think themfelves fo ; tho’ fuch 
 a Chimerical Happinefs is not peculiar to Repub- 
 licans, for we find the Subjects of the moft abfolute 
 Prince in Europe are as proud of their Monarch as 
 the Lucquefe of being fubjecft to none. Should^ the 
 French Affairs profper in Italy, it is pofllble the Great 
 Duke may bargain for the Republick of Lucca , by 
 the help of his great Treafures, as his Predeceffors 
 did formerly with the Emperor for that of Sienna. 
 The Great Dukes have never yet attempted any 
 thing on Lucca , as not only fearing the Arms of their 
 Protestor, but becaufe they are well allured, that 
 fhould the Lucquefe be reduced to the laft Extremi- 
 ties, they would rather throw themfelves under the 
 Government of the Genoefe , or fome ftronger Neigh- 
 bour, than fubmit to a State for which they have fo 
 great an Averfion. And the Florentines are very 
 ienfible, that it is much better having a weak State 
 within their Dominions, than the Branch of one 
 
 as 
 
2 34 ^he 'Republick of Lucca. 
 
 as ftrong as themfelves. But fhould fo formidable a 
 rower, as that of the French K\n<r f micla ° Je a 
 
 i; "uss Si" ?rs : 'i 
 
 Ei ftr j tl0 " of £ ^ e Government pafles into different 
 the'greateft^ecurity^ imaginable m“heir’ Liberty 3 
 
 Per2^L the Common wealth, to its Maturity md 
 
^rms H A D the good Luck to be at Flo- 
 rence when there was an Opera adted, 
 R which was the. eighth that I had feen 
 i n Italy. I could not but fmile to 
 read the folemn Protection of the 
 Poet in the firft Page, where he de- 
 clares that he believes neither in the Fates, Deities, 
 or Deftinies ; and that if he has made ufe of the 
 Words, • it is purely out of a Poetical Liberty, and 
 not from his real Sentiments, for that in all thefe 
 Particulars he believes as the Holy ]VIother Church 
 believes and commands. 
 
 PROTESTA. 
 
 Le voci Fa to, Deita , Dejlino , e ftmili , che per 
 entro quejlo Drama trovarai , fon mejfe per ifcher- 
 zo poetico , e non per Sentimento vero credendo 
 fempre in tutto quello , che crede , e comanda Santa 
 Madre chiefa. 
 
 There are fome beautiful Palaces in Florence _ ; 
 and as Tufcan Pillars and Rujlic Work owe their 
 Original to this Country, the Architeas always 
 take care to give them a Place in the great Edi- 
 fices that are raifed in Dufcany. The Dukes new 
 Palace is a very noble Pile, built after this man- 
 ner, which makes it look extremely Solid and 
 
236 F L O R E N C E. 
 
 Majeftick. It is not unlike that of Luxemburg i 
 at Pans , which was built by Mary of Medicis , f 
 and for that reafon perhaps -the Workmen fell in- I 
 to the Tufcan Humour. I found in the Court of j 
 this Paiace wnat I could not meet with any where I 
 m Rome. I mean an antique Statue of Hercules I 
 lifting up Antaus from the Earth, which I have I 
 already had occaflon to-fpeak of. It was found in I 
 Rome, and brought hither under the Reign of j 
 Leo the Tenth. There are abundance of Pictures I 
 in the feveral Apartments, by the Hands of the I 
 greatefl Mailers. 
 
 But ’tis the famous Gallery of the Old Palace 
 where are perhaps the nobleft Collections of Cu- 
 riofities to be met with in any Part of the whole 
 World. The Gallery it felf is made in the Shape 
 of an L, according to Mr. Laffel , but, if it mult 
 needs be like a Letter, it refembles the Greek n 
 mop. It is adorned with admirable Pieces of 
 Sculpture, as well modern as ancient. Of the 
 laft Sort I lhall mention thofe that are rareil ei- 
 ther for the Perfon they reprefent, or the Beauty 
 of the Sculpture. Among the Bulls of the Em- 
 perors and Emprefles there are thefe that follow, 
 which are all very fcarce, and fome of them al- 
 moft Angular in their kind. Agrippa , Caligula , 
 Otho, Ner-va, Mlius Veras, Pertinax , Geta, Di~ 
 dius Julianas, Albums extremely well wrought, 
 and. what is feldom feen in Alabafcer, Gor dianus 
 Africanus the Elder, Eliogabalus, Galien the elder, 
 and the younger Pupienus. I have put Agrippa 
 among the Emperors, becaufe he is generally rang'd 
 fo in Sets of Medals, as fome that follow among 
 the Emprefles have no other Right to tire Compa- 
 ny they are joined with. Domitia , Agrippina Wife 
 
 cf 
 
FLORENCE. 237 
 
 of Germanicus , Antonia , Matidia , Plotina, Mal- 
 lia , Scantilla , falfly infcrib’d under her Buft 
 Scveri, Aquilia Severn, Julia Marfa. I have gene- 
 rally obferved at Rcw*, which is the great Ma- 
 gazine of thefe- Antiquities, that the fame Heads 
 which are rare in Medals, are alfo rare in Marble, 
 and indeed one may commonly aflign the fame 
 Reafon for both, which was the Shortnefs of the 
 Emperor’s Reigns, that did not give the Workmen 
 time to make many of their Figures ; and as the 
 Shortnefs of their Reigns was generally occafton- 
 ed by the Advancement of a Rival, it is no won- 
 der that no Body worked on the Figure of a De- 
 ceafed Emperor, when his Enemy was in the 
 Throne. This Obfervation however does not al- 
 ways hold. An Agrippa or Caligula , for Exam- 
 ple, is a common Coin, but a very extraordinary 
 Buft; and a Tiberius a rare Coin, but a common 
 Buft, which one would the more wonder at, if 
 we confider the Indignities that were offer’d to this 
 Emperor’s Statues after his Death. The Tiberius in 
 Tiberim is a known Inftance. 
 
 Among the Bufts of fuch Emperors as are com- 
 mon enough, there are feveral in the Gallery that 
 deferve to be taken notice of for the Excellence 
 of the Sculpture, as thofe of Auguftus , Vefpafian , 
 Adrian , Marcus Aurelius , Lucius Ter us, Septimius 
 Sever us, Caracalla, Geta. There is in the fame 
 Gallery a beautiful Buft of Alexander the Great, 
 cafting up his Face to Heaven, with a nob’e Air 
 of Grief or Difcontentednefs in his Looks. I have 
 feen two or three antique Bufts of Alexander 
 in the fame Air and Pofture, and am apt to think 
 the Sculptor had in his Thoughts the Conque- 
 ror’s weeping for new Worlds, or fome other 
 
238 FLORENCE. 
 
 the like Circumflance of his Hiftory. There is al- 
 fo in Porphyry the Head of a Fawn,' and of the God 
 Pan. Among the intire Figures I took particular I 
 notice of a Veftal* Virgin, with the Holy Fire burn- > 
 ing before her. This Statue, I think, may decide 1 
 that notable Controverfy among the Antiquaries 
 whether the Veftals, after having receiv’d the Ton- 1 
 fare, ever fuffer’d their Hair to come again, for it J 
 is here full grown, and gather’d under the Veil. 
 The brafen Figure of the Conful, with the RinJ j 
 on his Finger, reminded me of Juvenal's majoris 
 pondera Gemma. There is another Statue in Brafs 
 fuppofed to be of Apollo , with this modern Infcripti- ’ 
 on on the Pedeftal, which I muft confefs I don’t 
 know what to make of, Ut potui hue veni muds et 
 fratre relitto. I faw in the fame Gallery the famous 
 Figure of the wild Boar, the Gladiator, the Narcif- 
 Jus, the Cupid and Pfyche, the Flora, with feme 
 modern Statues that feveral others have deferibed 
 Among the antique Figures there is a fine one of 
 Morpheus in Touchftone. I have always obferved 
 that this God is reprefented by the ancient Statuaries 
 under the Figure of a Boy afleep, with a Bundle of 
 Poppy in his Hand. I at firft took it for a Cupid 
 • till I had taken notice that it had neither Bow nor 
 Quiver. I fuppofe Dr. Lifter has been guilty of 
 the fame Mi Hake, in the Reflexions he makes on 
 what he calls the fleeping Cupid with Poppy in his 
 Hands. 
 
 / 1 
 
 ‘ 1 Shialia namque 
 
 Corpora nudorum Tabula pinguntur Amorum 
 Fans erat , fed tie faciat diferimina cultus , 
 
 Aut huic adde leves aut illis defile pharetras. 
 
 Ov. Met. L. 10. 
 
 Such 
 
239 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Such are the Cupids that in Paint we view ; 
 
 But that the Likenefs may be nicely true, 
 
 A loaden Quiver to his Shoulders tie, 
 
 Or bid the Cupids lay their Quivers by. 
 
 ’Tis probable they chofe to reprefent the God 
 of Sleep under the Figure of a Boy, contrary to 
 all our modern Defigners, becaufe it is that Age, 
 which has its Repofe the leaft broken by Cares 
 and Anxieties. Statius , in his celebrated Invoca- 
 tion of Sleep, addrefles himfelf to him under the 
 fame Figure. 
 
 Crimine quo merui , juvenis placidijjime Divum , 
 Spuove errore mifer , donis ut folus egerem 
 Somne tuis? tacet omne pecus , volucrefque ferte- 
 que> &c. Sil. L. 5. 
 
 Tell me, thou beft of Gods, thou gentle Youth, 
 
 T ell me my fad Offence ; that only I, 
 
 While hufh’d at Eafe thy drowfy Subje&s lie. 
 
 In the dead Silence of the Night complain, 
 
 Nor tafte the Bleffings of thy peaceful Reign. 
 
 I never faw any Figure of Sleep that was not of 
 black Marble, which has probably fome Relation 
 to the Night, that is the proper Seafon for Reft. 
 I fhould not have made this Remark, but that I 
 remember to have read in one of the ancient Au- 
 thors, that the Nile is generally reprefented in 
 Stone of this Colour, becaufe it flows from the 
 Country of the /Ethiopians ; which Ihows us that 
 Statuaries had fometimes an Eye to the Perfon 
 they were to reprefent, in the Choice they made 
 of their Marble* There are ft ill at Rome fome of 
 
 thefe 
 
240 FLORENCE. 
 
 thefe black Statues of the Nile which are cut in 
 kind of Touchflone. 
 
 ' 
 
 Ufque coloratis a?mis devexus ab Indis. 
 
 Virg. Geor. 4. de Nilo. I 
 
 At one End of the Gallery {land two antique ( 
 marble Pillars, curioufly wrought with the Figures | 
 of the old Rotnan Arms and Inflruments of War. | 
 After a full furvey of the Gallery, we were led] 
 into four or five Chambers of Curioiities that flandj 
 on the Side of it. The firfl was a Cabinet of An- 
 tiquities, made up chiefly of Idols, Talifmans, 
 Lamps and Hieroglyphicks, I faw nothing in it 
 that I was not before acquainted with, except the 
 four following Figures in Brafs. 
 
 I. A little Image of Juno Sifpita , or Sofpita 
 which perhaps is not to be met with any where 
 elfe but on Medals. She is clothed in a Goat’s 
 skin, the Horns flicking out above her Head. The 
 Right Arm is broken that probably fupported a 
 Shield, and the Left a little defac’d, tho’ one may 
 fee it held fomething in its Grafp formerly. The 
 Feet are bare. I remember Tully’s Defcription of 
 this Goddefs in the following Words. Hercle in- 
 quit quam tibi illam nojlram Sofpitam quam tu 
 nunquam ne in Somniis vides , niji cum pelle Ca- ' 
 prina . , cum hajld , cum fcuiulo , cum calceolis re - ] 
 pandis. 
 
 II. An 
 
FLORENCE. 241 
 
 Medal 
 of Juno Si. 
 lpita. Vid. 
 ¥ulv. Urlin. 
 in Familii 
 Tlxoiia Sc 
 Poicilia. 
 
 This is a 
 Rcverfe of 
 Anton.Pius, 
 
 II. An antique Model of the famous Laocoon and 
 his two Sons, that ftands in the Belvidera at Rome. 
 This is the more remarkable, as it is in tire in thofe 
 Parts where the Statue is maim’d. It was by the 
 help of this Model that Bandinelli finifhed his admi- 
 rable Copy of the Laocoon , which ftands at one End 
 of this Gallery. 
 
 III. An Apollo or Amphion. I took notice of this 
 little Figure for the Singularity of the Inftrument, 
 which I never before faw in ancient Sculpture. It 
 is not unlike a Violin, and play’d on after the fame 
 manner. I doubt however whether this Figure be 
 not of a later Date than the reft, by the Meannefs 
 of the Workmanfhip. 
 
 IV. A Corona Radialis with only eight Spikes to 
 it. Every one knows the ufual Number was twelve, 
 fome fay in allufion to the Signs of the Zodiac , and 
 others to the Labours of Hercules. 
 
242 FLORENCE. 
 
 Ingenti mole Latinus 
 
 Spuadrijugo vebitur curru ; cut tempera circum 
 Aurati bis Sex Radii fulgentia cingunt , 
 
 Solis avi Specimen— — Virg. iEn. 12. 
 
 Four Steeds the Chariot of Latinus bear : 
 
 Twelve golden Beams around his Temples play. 
 
 To mark his Lineage from the God of Day. ' ? 
 
 Mr. Dry den. 
 
 The two next Chambers are made up of feveral 
 artificial Curiofities in Ivory, Amber, Cryftal, , 
 Marble, and precious Stones, which all Voyage- 1 
 W riters are full of. In the Chamber that is fhown 
 laft Hands the celebrated Venus of Medicis. The 
 Statue feems much lefs than the Life, as being 
 perfectly naked, and in Company , with others of j 
 % larger Make : It is notwitbftanding as big as the 
 ordinary fize of a Woman, as I concluded from 
 the Meafure of her Wrift for from the Bignefs 
 of any one Part it is eafy to guefs at all the ‘reft, 
 in a Figure of fuch nice Proportions. The Soft- 
 nefs of the Flefh, the Delicacy of the Shape, Air, ! 
 and Pofture, and the Corredtnefs of Defign in this 
 Statue are inexpreffible, I have feveral Reafons 
 to belteve that the Name of the Sculptor on the 
 Pedeftal is not fo old as the Statue. This Fio-ure 
 of Venus put me in mind of a Speech fhe makes ia 
 one of the Greek Epigrams. 
 
 Tvy.vlw el S'i n detspl 6 ) 'Avy tFus ^'AS'eovif, 
 
 Ta? Tp&soU'x J'i ersflgj/. 
 
 Anchifes , Paris, and Adonis too 
 
 Have feen me naked, and expos’d to view ; 
 
 All 
 
FLORENCE. 243 
 
 All thefe I frankly own without denying : 
 
 But where has this Praxiteles been prying? 
 
 There is another Venus in the fame Circle, that 
 would make a good Figure any where elfe. There 
 are among the old Roman Statues feveral of Venus 
 in different Poftures and Habits, as there are many 
 particular Figures of her made after the fame De- 
 fign. I fanfy it is not hard to find among them 
 fome that were made after the three Statues of 
 this Goddefs, which Pliny mentions. In the fame 
 Chamber is the Roman Slave whetting his Knife 
 and lift’ning, which from the Shoulders upward is 
 incomparable. The two W re filers are in the fame 
 Rnom. I obferved here likewife a very curious 
 Buft of Annius Venus, the young Son of Marcus 
 Aurelius , who dy’d at nine Years of Age. I have 
 feen feveral other Bufts of him at Rome , tho’ his 
 Medals are exceeding rare. 
 
 The Great Duke has ordered a large Chamber to 
 be fitted up for old Infcriptions, Urns, Monu- 
 ments, and the like Sets of Antiquities. I was 
 fhown feveral of them which are not yet put up. 
 There are the two famous Infcriptions that give fo 
 great a light to the Hiftories of Appius , who made 
 the Highway, and of Fabius the Dictator ; they 
 contain a fhort Account .of the Honours they 
 palled through, and the Adlions they performed*. 
 
 I faw too the Bufts of Tranquillina , Mother to 
 Gordianus Pius , and of Quintus Herennins , Son 
 to Trajan Decius , which are extremely valuable 
 for their Rarity, and a beautiful old Figure made 
 after the celebrated Hermaphrodite in the Villa 
 Borghefe. I faw nothing that has not been ob- 
 ferved by feveral others in the Argent aria, the T a- 
 L 2 bernacle 
 
244 F L Q R E N C E. 
 
 bernacle of St. Laurence’s Chapel, and the Cham- 
 ber of Painters. The Chapel of St. Laurenu\V\\ 
 be perhaps tne raoft cofily Piece of work on the 
 i ace of the Earth when compleated, but it ad- 
 vances fo very flowlv, that ’tis not impoffible but 
 the Family of Medicis may be extind before their 
 Burial Place is finifh’d. 
 
 The Great Duke has liv’d many Years feparate 
 from the Dutchefs, who is at prefent in the Court 
 of France, and intends there to end her Days 
 The Cardinal his Brother is old and infirm and 
 could never be induced to refign his Purple for 
 the uncertain Profped of giving an Heir to the 
 Dukedom of Tufcany. The great Prince has been 
 married feveral Years without any Children, and 
 notwithftanding all the Precautions in the world 
 were taken for the Marriage of the Prince his 
 younger Brother (as the finding out a Lady for 
 him who was in the Vigour and Flower of her 
 Age, and had given Marks of her Fruitfulnefs by 
 a former Husband) they have all hitherto proved 
 unfuccefsful. There is a Branch of the Family' 
 of Medicis in Naples: The Head of it has been 
 own’d as a Kinfmnn by the Great Duke, and ’tis 
 thought will fucceed to his Dominions, in cafe the 
 Princes his Sons- die Chilcllefs ; though ’tis not im- 
 poffible but in fucli a Conjun£ture, & the Common- 
 wealths, that are thrown under the Great Dutchv 
 £iay make fome Efforts towards the Recovery of 
 ftheir ancient Liberty. J 
 
 I was in the Library of Manufcripts belonging 
 to St. Laurence , of which there is a Printed Ca- 
 talogue. I look’d into the Virgil which difputes 
 its Antiquity with that of the Vatican. It wants 
 ike Me ego qui quondam , &c. and the twenty 
 
FLORENCE. 245 
 
 two Lines in the fecond M mid, beginning at 
 Jamque adeb fuper unus eram. — I mull: confefs I 
 always thought this- Paffage left out with a great 
 deal of Judgment by Tucca and Varius, as it feems 
 to contradict a Part in the fixth /Eneid , and re- 
 prefen ts the Hero in a Paflion, that is, at lead, 
 not at all becoming the Greatnefs of his Charac-- 
 ter. Befides, I think the Apparition of Venus 
 comes in very properly to draw him away from 
 the Sight of Priam’s Murder; for without fuch 
 a Machine to take him off, I can’t fee how the 
 Hero could, v/ith Honour , leave Neoptolemus 
 triumphant, and Priam unrevenged. But fines 
 Virgil’s Friends thought fit to let drop this Inci- 
 dent of Helen , I wonder they would not blot out, 
 or altera Line in Venus’s Speech, that has a rela- 
 tion to the Rencounter, and comes in improperly 
 without it, 
 
 Non tibi Tyndaridce facies invifa Laccen<e, 
 Culpatufue Paris. J£ n. 2, 1 - 
 
 Florence for modern Statues I think excels even 
 Rome, but thefe I fhall pafs over in Silence, that I 
 may not tranferibe out of others. 
 
 The Way from Florence to Bolonia runs ove>* 
 feveral Ranges of Mountains, and is the word 
 Road, I believe, of any over the Apennines ; for 
 this was my third time of eroding them. It gave 
 me a lively Idea of Silius Italicus’s Defcription of 
 Hannibal’s March. 
 
 Quoque jnagis fubiere jugo at que evader e nifi 
 Erexere gradum , crefcit labor , ardua fuprd 
 Sefe aperit fejfs , et nafeitur altera moles.- L. 3; 
 
 L 3 From 
 
246 FLORENCE. 
 
 From Steep to Steep the Troops advanc’d with 
 Pain, 
 
 In hopes at laft the topmoff Cliff to gain ; 
 
 But ftill by new Afcents the Mountain grew, 
 
 And a frefh Toil prefented to their View." 
 
 I fhall conclude this Chapter with the Defcriptions 
 which the Latin Poets have given us of the Apennines. \ 
 We may obferve in them all the remarkable Qua- j 
 lities of this prodigious length of Mountains, that 1 
 run from one Extremity of ItalyXo the other, and \ 
 give Rife to an incredible Variety of Rivers that 
 water this delightful Country. 
 
 Nubifer Appenninus. Ov. Met. L. 2. 
 
 - -- ^ui Siculum p or re Si us ad ufque Pelorum , 
 
 Limbus ab Ligurum populos ampleditur omnes 
 Italic geminumque latus Jlringentia longe 
 (Jtraque perpetuo difcriminat aquora tradu. 
 
 Claud, de Sexto Conf. Hon. 
 
 — Mole nivali 
 
 Alpibus aquatum attollens caput Apenninus, 
 
 Sil. It. L. 2. 
 
 ILorrebat glacie Saxa inter lubrica Summo 
 Piniferum ccelo mifcens caput Apenninus : 
 
 Condi derat Nix alt a trabes , et vertice celfo 
 C anus apex ft rid d furgebat ad ajlra pruind. 
 
 Lib. 4. id. 
 
 Umbrojis mediam qua collibus Apenninus 
 Erigit Italiam , nullo qua vertice tellus 
 Aldus intimuit , propiufque acceffit Olympo , 
 
 Mans inter geminas medius fe porrigit undas 
 Inferni , fuperique maris : collefque coercent , 
 
 Mine 
 
FLORENCE. 247 
 
 Mine Tyrrhena vado frangentes aquora Pifte, 
 
 Jllinc Dalmaticis obnoxia f,u£libus^ Ancon. 
 
 Fontibus hie va/lis immenfos concipit amnes, 
 Fluminaque in gemini fpargit divortia ponti. 
 
 Luc. L. 2. 
 
 In Pomp the fhady Appennines arife, _ 
 
 And lift th’ afpiring Nation to the Skies ; 
 
 No Land like Italy erefts the Sight 
 
 By fuch a vaft Afcent, or fwells to fuch a Height : 
 
 Her num’rous States the tow’ring Hills divide, 
 
 And fee the Billows rife on either Side ; 
 
 At Pifa here the Range of Mountains ends } 
 
 And here to high Ancona’s Shores extends : 
 
 In their dark Womb a thoufand Rivers lie, 
 
 That with continu’d Streams the double Sea fupply. 
 
 Bolonjiff 
 
Bolonia Modena , 
 
 Parma ? Turin , &c*. 
 
 |FTER a very tedious Journey over 
 i the Appennines , we at laft came to 
 | the River that runs at the Foot of 
 \ them, and was formerly call’d the 
 ; little Rhine. Following the Courfe 
 S of this River we arrived in a fhort 
 time at Bolenia. 
 
 Parvique Bonenia Rheni. Sil. It. 8, 
 
 Bolonia water’d by the petty Rhine. 
 
 We here quickly felt the Difference of the 
 Northern from the Southern Side of the Moun- 
 tains, as well in the Coldnefs of the Air, as in 
 the Badnefs of the Wine. ThisWTown is famous 
 for the Richnefs of the Soil that lies about it, 
 and the Magnificence of its Convents. It is like- 
 wife efleemecl the Third in Italy for Figures, as 
 having been the School of the Lombard Painters. 
 I faw in it three Rarities of different kinds, which 
 pleafed me more than any other Shows of the 
 Place. The firft was an authentick Silver Medal 
 of the younger Brutus , in the Hands of an emi- 
 nent Antiquary. One may fee the Character of 
 the Perfon in the Features of the Face, which is 
 exquifitely well cut. On the Reverfe is the Cap 
 
 of 
 
Jdoloma, Modena , &c. 249 
 
 of Liberty, with a Dagger on each Side of it, fub- 
 fcribed Id. Mar. for the Ides of March , the fa- 
 mous Date of Ccefar’ s Murder. The Second 
 was a Picture of Raphael’s in St. Giouanni in 
 Monte. It is extremely well preferved, and re- 
 prefents St. Cecilia with an Indrument of Mufick 
 in her Hands. On one, fide of her are the Figures 
 of St. Paul , and St. John ; and on the other, of 
 Mary Magdalene, and St. Aujlin. There is fome- 
 thing wonderfully Divine in the Airs of this 
 Pidture. I cannot forbear mentioning, for my 
 Third Curiofity, a new Stair-cafe that Strangers 
 are generally carried to fee, where the Eafinefs 
 of the Afcent within fo fmall a Compafs, the 
 Difpofition of the Lights, and the convenient 
 Landing are admirably well contrived. The 
 Wars of Italy , and the Seafon of the Year, made 
 me pafs thro’ the Dutchies of Modena , Parma , 
 and Savoy with more hade than I would have 
 done at another time. The Soil of Modena and 
 Parma is very rich and well cultivated. The 
 Palaces of the Princes are magnificent, but nei- 
 ther of them is yet finifhed. We procured a Li- 
 cence of the Duke of Parma to enter the Thea- 
 ter and Gallery, which deferve to be feen as well 
 as any thing of that nature in Italy. The Thea- 
 ter is, I think, the mod fpacious of any I ever 
 faw, and at the fame time fo admirably well con- 
 trived, that from the very depth of the Stage the 
 lowed: Sound may be heard didinctly to the far- 
 theft Part of the Audience, as in a Whifpering- 
 Place ; and yet if you raife your Voice as high 
 as you pleafe, there is nothing like an Echo to 
 caufe in it the lead Confufion. The Gallery is 
 hung with a numerous Colledtion of Pictures, all 
 L 5 done 
 
2$o Bolonia , Modena , 
 
 done by celebrated Hands. On one Side of the 
 Gallery is a large Room adorned with Inlay’d 
 Tables, Cabinets, Works in Amber, and other 
 Pieces of great Art and Value. Out of this we 
 were led into another great Room, furnifhed 
 with old Infcriptions, Idols, Bulls, Medals, and 
 the like Antiquities. I could have fpent a Day 
 with great Satisfaction in this Apartment, but 
 had only time to pafs my Eye over the Medals, 
 which are in great Number, and many of them 
 very rare. The fcarceft of all is a Pefcennius 
 Niger on a Medalion well preferved. It was' 
 coined at Antioch , where this Emperor trifled a- 
 Way his Time ’till he loll his Life and Empire. 
 T he Reverie is a Dea Salus. There are two of 
 Otho, the Reverfe a Serapis ; and two of Mef- 
 Jhlina and Poppeea in middle Brafs, the Reveries 
 of the Emperor Claudius. I faw two Medalions 
 of Plotina and Matidia, the Reverfe to each a 
 Pietas ; with two Medals of Pertinax , the Re- 
 verfe of one Vota Decennalia , and of the other Diis 
 Cuflodibus ; and another of Gor dianus Africaniis y 
 the Reverfe I have forgot. 
 
 The Principalities of Modena and Parma are 
 much about the fame Extent, and have each of 
 them two large Towns, befides a great number 
 of little Villages. The Duke of Parma how- 
 ever is much richer than the Duke of Modena. 
 Their Subjects would live in great Plenty amidft 
 fo rich and well cultivated a Soil, were not 
 the Taxes and Impofitions fo very Exorbitant, 
 for the Courts are much too fplendid and mag- 
 nificent for the Territories that lie about them, 
 and one cannot but be amazed to fee fuch a 
 Profufion of Wealth laid out in Coaches, Trap- 
 
 P hl g s > 
 
Parma , I'nrin, &c. 251 
 
 pings, Tables, Cabinets, and the like precious 
 TcSs in which there are tew Princes of Europe 
 who equal them, when at the fame time they 
 have not had the Generofity to. make Bridges over 
 the Rivers of their Countnes 5 for the 
 nience of their Subjeds, as well as Strangers, 
 who are forced to pay an unreafonalue Exaction 
 at every Ferry upon the lead rifing of the W aters. 
 A Man might well expe£t in thefe iinall Govern- 
 ments a much greater Regulation of Affairs, for 
 the Eafe and Benefit of the People, than in large 
 over-grown States, where the Rules of Juft ice. 
 Beneficence, and Mercy, may be eafily put out 
 of their Courfe, in paffing thro’ the Hands of 
 Deputies, and a long Subordination of Officers, 
 And it * would certainly be for the Good of 
 Mankind to have all the mighty Empires and 
 Monarchies of the World cantoned out into petty 
 States and Principalities, that, like fo many 
 large Families, might lie under the Eye and Ob- 
 fervation of their proper Governours 5 fo that the 
 Care of the Prince might extend it felf to every 
 individual Perfon under his Protcftion. But fince 
 fuch a general Scheme can never be brought a- 
 bout, and if it were, it would quickly be de- 
 ftroyed by the Ambition of fome particular State 
 afpiring above the reft, it happens very ill at pre- 
 fect to & be born under one of thefe petty Sove- 
 reigns, that will be ftill endeavouring, at his Sub- 
 ie£fs Coft, to equal tire Pomp and Grandeur of 
 greater Princes, as well as to outvie tliofe of his 
 own Rank. 
 
 For this Reafon there are no People in the 
 World who live with more Eafe and Frofperity 
 than the Subjects of little Commonwealths, as 
 
2 5 2 Bolonia , Modena , 
 
 on the contrary there are none who buffer more 
 
 tT a n r ^ he Q?- n A VanC | S ,. of , a hard Government, 
 t] a p th f r U h^ s of llttle Principalities. I left 
 the Road of Milan, on my Right Hand, having be- 
 
 in' f t at and after havin S Puffed through 
 
 wlw h c- Front i er u T <™“ of Savoy , I at laft came 
 wnhin Sight . of the Po, which is a fine River 
 even at Turin, though within fix Miles of its 
 ^ouice. This River has been made the Scene 
 of two or three Poetical Stories. Ovid has cho- 
 len it out to throw his Phaeton into it, after all 
 the fmaller Rivers had been dry’d up in the Con- 
 flagration. r 
 
 I have read fome Botanical Criticks,. who tell 
 us the Poets, have not rightly followed the Tradi- 
 10 ns of Antiquity, in Metamorphofing the Sifters 
 ot Phaeton into Poplars, who ought to have been 
 tuined into Larch-trees; for that it is this kind 
 r i e wl fch Preds a Gum, and is commonly 
 founu on the Banks of the Po. The Change 
 ct Cycnus into a Swan, which clofes up the Dif- 
 aneis of Phaeton’s Family, was wrought on the 
 fame Place where the Sifters were turned into 
 Irees. Phe Defcriptions that Virgil and Ovid 
 have made of it cannot be fufficiently admired. 
 
 Claudian has fet oft his Defcription of the Eri~ 
 danus, with all the Poetical Stories that have been 
 made of it. 
 
 7 ’ 1 e f a P u *t pOcidis fublime fluentis 
 
 hxtulit , & tot is Incem fpargentia ripis 
 yiurea ' r or anti micuerunt cornua vultu. 
 r/ 0 '/* . 1 lj l ma didum vulgaris arundine crinetn 
 i elat honos ; rajni caput umbravere virentes 
 
 He - 
 
Parma , Turin, Stc, 251 
 
 ; ' Heiiadum , totifque fluunt eleffra capillis. 
 
 Pallet tegit latos humeros , curruque paterno 
 Intextus Phaeton glaum incendh amiftus : 
 
 Fultaque fub gremio ccelath nobilis ajlris 
 ALtherium probat urna decus. Namque omnia luff us 
 Argumenta fui Titan fignavit Olympo, 
 
 Mutatumque jenem plumis , et fronde forores , 
 
 Et jluvium , nati qui vulnera lavit anheli , 
 
 Stat gelidis Auriga plagis ; vejligia fratris 
 Germans fervant Hyades , Cycnique fodalis 
 LaSieus extentas afpergit circulus alas. 
 
 Stellifer Eridanus finuatis fiuftibus errans, 
 
 Clara noti convexa rigat 
 
 Claudian. de Sexto Conf. Honorii, 
 
 His Head above the Floods he gently rear’d. 
 
 And as he rofe his golden Horns appear’d, 
 
 That on the Forehead fhone divinely bright, 
 
 And o’er the Banks diffus’d a yellow Light : 
 
 No interwoven Reeds a Garland made, 
 
 To hide his Brows within the vulgar Shade r 
 But Poplar Wreaths around his Temples fpread, 
 
 And Tears of Amber trickled down his Head 
 A fpacious Veil from his broad Shoulders flew, 
 
 • That fet th’ unhappy Phaeton to view : 
 
 The flaming Chariot and the Steeds it fhow’d. 
 
 And the whole Fable in the Mantle glow’d: 
 Beneath his Arm an Urn fupported lies. 
 
 With Stars embellifh’d and fictitious Skies. 
 
 For Titan , by the mighty Lofs difmay’d, 
 
 Among the Heav’ns- th’ Immortal Faft difplay’d. 
 Left the Remembrance of his Grief fhould fail, 
 
 And in the Conftellations wrote his Tale. 
 
 A Swan in Memory of Cycnus fhines ; 
 
 The Mourning Sifters weep in watry Signs ; 
 
 The 
 
254 Bolonia , Modena , 
 
 The burning Chariot, and the Charioteer, 
 
 In bright Bootes and his Wane appear ; 
 
 Whilft in a Track of Light the Waters run. 
 
 That wafh’d the Body of his blafted Son. 
 
 The River Po gives a Name to the chief Street 
 of Turin , which fronts the Duke’s Palace, and, 
 when iinifh’d, will be one of the nobleft in Italy 
 for its Length. There is one Convenience in 
 this City that I never obferved in any other, and 
 which makes fome amends for the Badnefs of the 
 Pavement. By the help of a River, that runs on 
 the upper Side of the Town, they can convey 
 a little Stream of Water through all the moft 
 confiderable Streets, which ferves to cleanfe the 
 Gutters, and carries away all the Filth that is 
 fwept into it. The Manager opens his Sluice 
 every Night, and diftributes the Water into what 
 Quarters of the Town he pleafes. Befides the 
 ordinary Convenience that arifes from it, it is of 
 great ufe when a Fire chances to break out, for 
 at a few Minutes warning they have a little Ri- 
 ver running by the very Walls of the Houfe that is 
 Burning. The Court of Turin is reckon’d the 
 moft fplendid and polite of any in Italy ; but by 
 reafon of its being in Mourning, I could not fee 
 it in its Magnificence. The common People of 
 this State are more exafperated againft the French 
 than even the reft of the Italians. For the great 
 Mifchiefs they have fuffer’d from them are ftill 
 frefh upon their Memories, and notwithftanding 
 this Interval of Peace, one may eafily trace out 
 the feveral Marches which the French Armies have 
 made through their Country, by the Ruin and De- 
 flation they have left behind them. I palled 
 
 through 
 
Parma , Turin, &c. 251 
 
 through Piemont and Savoy, at a time when the 
 Duke was forced, by the Neceffity of his Affairs, to 
 be in Alliance with the French. 
 
 I came directly from Turin to Geneva , and had 
 a very eafy Journey over Mount Cennis , though a- 
 bout the Beginning of December , the Snows having 
 not yet fallen. On the Top of this high Moun- 
 tain is a large Plain, and in the midft of the Plain 
 a beautiful Lake, which would be very extraordi- 
 nary were there not feveral Mountains in the Neigh- 
 bourhood rifing over it. The Inhabitants there- 
 about pretend that it is unfathomable, and I que- 
 ffion not but Waters of it fill up a deep Valley, be- 
 fore they come to a level with the Surface of the 
 Plain. It is well-ftock’d with Trouts, though they 
 fay it is cover’d with Ice three quarters of a Year. 
 
 There is nothing in the natural Face of Italy 
 that is more delightful to a Traveller, than the 
 feveral Lakes which are difperfed up and down 
 among the many Breaks and Hollows of the Alps and 
 Appennines . For as thefe vafl: Heaps of Mountains 
 are thrown together with fo much Irregularity and 
 Confufion, they form a great Variety of hollow 
 Bottoms, that often lie in the Figure of fo many 
 artificial Bafons ; where, if any Fountains chance 
 to rife, they naturally fpread themfelves into Lakes 
 before they can find any IiTue for their Waters. 
 The ancient Romans took a great deal of Pains to 
 hew out a Pafiage for thefe Lakes to difcharge 
 themfelves into fome neighbouring River, for the 
 bettering of the Air, or the recovering of the Soil 
 that lay underneath them. The draining of the 
 Fucinus by the Emperor Claudius , with the prodi- 
 gious Multitude of Spectators who attended it, and 
 the famous Naumacbia and fplendid Entertainment 
 
 which 
 
256 Bolonia , Modena , 
 
 ■which were made upon it before the Sluices were 
 open’d, is a known Piece of Hiftory. In all our 
 Journey through the Alps , as well when we climb’d 
 as when we defcended them, we hid ftill a River 
 running along with the Road, that probably at firft 
 occafion’d the Difcovery of this Paffage. I (hall 
 end this Chapter with a Defcription of the Alps, as 
 I did the laft with thofe of the Appennines. The 
 Poet perhaps would not have taken notice, that 
 there is no Spring nor Summer on thefe Mountains, ' 
 but becaufe in this refpedt the Alps are quite diffe- 
 rent from the Appennines , which have as delightful 
 green Spots among them as any in Italy . 
 
 CunSla gelu candque ceternum gran dine tetta, 
 
 Atque esvi glaciem cohibent : riget ardua month 
 Alt her ii facies , furgentique obvia Phcebo 
 Duratas nefcit flammis mollire pruinas , 
 
 Quantum Tartareus regni pallentis hiatus 
 Ad manes imos atque atra Jlagna paludis 
 A fuperd tellur e patet : tam longd per auras 
 Erigitur tellus , ii f coelmn intercipit Umbra. 
 
 Nullum ver ufqua?n , nullique Ajlatis honores , 
 
 Sola jugis habitat diris , fedefque tuetur 
 Perpetuas deformis Hyems : ilia undique nubes 
 Hue atras a git, et mixtos cum grandine nimbss. 
 
 Nam cundti fatus ventique furentia regna 
 Alpind pofuere domo , caligat in altis 
 Obtutus jaxis , abeuntque in nubila rnontes. 
 
 Sil. It. L. 3, 
 
 Stiff with Eternal Ice, and hid in Snow 
 That fell a thoufand Centuries ago, 
 
 Tl he Mountain ftands ; nor can the riling Sun 
 Unfix her Frofts, and teach ’em how to run : 
 
 Deep j 
 
Parma , Turin , 6cc. 257 
 
 Deep as the dark Infernal Waters lie 
 From the bright Regions of the chearful oky. 
 
 So far the proud afcending Rocks invade 
 Heav’ns upper Realms, and caft a dreadful Shade . 
 No Spring nor Summer on the Mountain feen 
 Smiles with gay Fruits, or with delightful Green, 
 But hoary Winter, unadorn’d and bare, 
 
 Dwells in the dire Retreat, and freezes there ; 
 There She affembles all her blackeft Storms ; 
 
 And the rude Hail in rattling T empelts forms ; 
 Thither the loud tumultuous Winds refort. 
 
 And on the Mountain keep their boift’rous Court, 
 That in thick Show’rs her rocky Summit fhrowds. 
 And darkens all the broken View with Clouds, 
 
EAR St. Julian in Savoy the Alps 
 begin to enlarge themfelves on all 
 Tides, and open into a vaft Circuit 
 of Ground, which in refpeft of the 
 other Parts of the Alps may pafs for 
 a plain Champion Country. This 
 Extent cf Lands, with the Leman Lake, would 
 make one of the prettied: and mod: defcnfible Do- 
 minions in Europe was it all thrown into a Tingle 
 State, and had Geneva for its Metropolis. But 
 there are three powerful Neighbours who divide 
 among them the greated: part of this fruitful 
 
 Country. The Duke of Savoy, has the Chablais , 
 and ah the F lelds that lie beyond the Arve , as far 
 as to the Eclufe. The King of France is Matter 
 of the whole Country of Gex ; and the Canton of 
 Bern comes in for that of Vaud. Geneva and its 
 little Territories lie in the Heart of thefc three 
 States. The greateft part of the Town fends up- 
 on a Hill, and has its View bounded on all Sides 
 by feveral Ranges of Mountains, which are how- 
 ever 
 
Geneva and the hake. 259 
 
 ever at fo great a Diftance, that they leave open 
 a wonderful Variety of beautiful Profpedfs. "T he 
 Situation of thefe IVlountains has fome particular 
 Effe&s on the Country, which they inclofe. As 
 firft, they cover it from all Winds, except the 
 South and North. ’Tis to the laft of thefe Winds 
 that the Inhabitants of Geneva aferibe the Health- 
 fulnefs of their Air ; for as the Alps furround 
 them on all Tides, they form a vaft kind of Bafon, 
 where there would be a conllant Stagnation of 
 Vapours, the Country being fo well water’d, did 
 not the North Wind put them in Motion, and 
 fcattcr them from time to time. Another Effect 
 the Alps have on Geneva is, that the Sun here rifes 
 later and fets fooner • than it does to other 1 laces 
 cf the fame Latitude. I have often obferved that 
 the Tops of the neighbouring Mountains have been 
 covered with Light above half an Hour after the 
 Sun is down, in refpeft of thofe who live at 
 Geneva. Thefe Mountains likewife very much 
 increafe their Summer Heats, and make up an 
 Horizon that has fomething in it very fingular and 
 agreeable. On one Side you have the longTradd 
 of Hills, that goes under the Name of Mount Jura , 
 covered with Vineyards and Pafturage, and on the 
 ether huge Precipices of naked Rocks rifing up in 
 a thoufand odd Figures, and cleft in fome Places, 
 fo as to difeover high Mountains of Snow that lie 
 feveral Leagues behind them. Towards the South 
 the Hills rife more infenfibly, and leave the Eye 
 a vaft uninterrupted Profpett for many Miles. 
 But the moft beautiful View of all is the Lake, 
 and the Borders of it that lie North of the 
 Town. 
 
 This 
 
260 Geneva and the Lake. 
 
 wlers 8 I ?hp e >; f rerembl f a Sea in the Colour of ft, 
 > e Storms that are raifed on it, and the 
 
 ? 3 d Xen £ ate “ * Banks. It rccdvt £ 
 a different Name from the Coafts it walhes 
 
 Flow" 1 whkh' er , r h f as i ? methil ?g like an Ebb amt 
 5 hich arifes from the melting of the 
 Snows that fall into it more copioufly at Noon 
 
 fcrent Sw “ b”? ° f the ° a r- It has five dif- 
 France Zhe the Kingdom of 
 
 ’ Bern the Rift l °1 o^’ the Canto ‘' of 
 
 T °pnck of Sum, and the Republick 
 
 Ctut e d have feen Pa I’ ers fi *’d «P in the 
 Canton of Bern, with this magnificent Preface • 
 
 lonTs\o^h § p h n S ’ de ?V he Lake from Gencva be- 
 cu ii,„ f - h £ ake of Savoy, and is extremely well 
 
 ™ a d ' - The gr f ateft Enchainment we found 
 coafting it were the feveral Profpea s of Woods 
 Vineyards, Meadows, and Corn Fields which lie 
 f J he 5° lders or it, and run up all the Sides 
 of the Alps, where the Barren neff of the Rocks 
 
 The h W teeP f fS ° f the Afcsnt wil1 fofler them! 
 
 I he Wme however on this fide of the Lake fa 
 
 by no means fo good as that on the other, as it 
 
 S m W ? pCn 3 Soi1 ’ and is lefs ex P° s ’d to the 
 un. e here pafs’d by Yvoire , where the Duke 
 
 ttem-eateft G T ieS ’ ^ W , at Tmn > wiich « 
 
 me gieatelt Town on the Lake belonging to the 
 Savoyard, It has four Convents, and thfy fay about 
 
 lixu; 
 
Geneva and the Lake. 261 
 
 fix or feven thoufand Inhabitants. The Lake is here 
 about twelve Miles in Breadth. At a little Dif- 
 tance from Tonon {lands Rip'aille , where is a Con- 
 vent of Carthufians. They have a larg;e Foreft 
 cut out into Walks, that are extremely thick and 
 r gloomy, and very fuitable to the Genius of the In- 
 habitants. There are Vijla' s in it of a great Length, 
 that terminate upon the Lake. At one Side of 
 'the Walks you have a near Profpedf of the Alps, 
 which are broken into fo many Steeps and Pre- 
 cipices, that they fill the Mind with an agreeable 
 kind of Horror, and form one of the moll ir- 
 regular mif-fhapen Scenes in the World. The 
 Houfe that is now in the Hands of the Carthuft- 
 "ans belong’d formerly to the Hermites of St. Mau- 
 rice, and is famous in Hiflory for the Retreat 
 of an Anti-Pope, who call’d himfelf Felix the 
 b ifth. He had been Duke of Savoy , and af- 
 ter a very glorious Reign took on him the Ha- 
 bit of a Hermite, and retired into this Solitary 
 Spot of his Dominions. His Enemies will have 
 it, that he lived here in great Eafe and Luxury, 
 from whence the Italians to this Day make ufe of 
 the Proverb, Andare a Ripaglia ; and the French, 
 Faire Ripaille to exprefs a delightful kind of Life. 
 They fay too, that he had great Managements 
 with feveral Ecclefiafticks before he turned Her- 
 mite, and that he did it in the View of being ad- 
 vanced to the Pontificate. However it was, he had 
 not been here half a Year before he was chofen 
 Pope by the Council of Bafil, who took upon 
 them to Depofe Eugenio the Fourth. This pro- 
 mifed fair at firft, but by the Death of the Empe- 
 ror, who favoured Amadeo , and the Refolution of 
 j Eugenio, the greatell part of the Church threw 
 
262 
 
 Geneva and the Lake. 
 
 it felf again under the Government of their de- 
 pofed Head. Our Anti-Pope however was ftill 
 fupported by the Council of Bafil , and owned by 
 Savoy , Switzerland and a few other little States. 
 This Schifm lafted in the Church nine Years,’ af- 
 ter which Felix voluntarily refigned his Title into 
 the Hands of Pope Nicholas the Fifth, but on the 
 following Conditions, That Amadeo fhould be the 
 firft Cardinal in the Conclave ; That the Pope 
 fhould always receive him Handing, and offer him 
 his Mouth to kifs ; That he fhould be perpetual 
 Cardinal-Legate in the States of Savoy and Swit- 
 zerland , and in the Archbifnopricks of Geneva , 
 Sion, Brefs , &c. And laftly, That all the Cardinals 
 of his Creation fhould be recognized by the Pope. 
 After he had made a Peace fo acceptable to the 
 Church, and fo honourable to himfelf, he fpent the 
 Remainder of his Life with great Devotion at Ri- 
 paille , and died with an extraordinary Reputation of 
 Sandlity. 
 
 At Tonon they fhowed us a Fountain of Wa- 
 ter that is in great efteem for its Wholfomnefs. 
 They fay it weighs two Ounces in a Pound lefs 
 than the fame Meafure of the Lake Water, not- 
 withftanding this laft is very good to drink, atTd 
 as clear as can be imagined. A little above To- 
 non is a Caftle and fmall Garrifon. The next 
 Day we faw other fmall Towns on the Coaft of 
 Savoy, where there is nothing but Mifery and Po- 
 verty. The nearer you come to the End of the 
 Lake the Mountains on each fide grow thicker 
 and higher, ’till at laft they almoft meet. One 
 often fees on the Tops of the Mountains feveral 
 fharp Rocks that ftand above the reft ; for as thefe 
 Mountains have been doubtlefs much higher than 
 
 they 
 
Geneva and the Lake . 263 
 
 they are a* prefent, the Rains have wafhed away 
 abundance of the Soil, that has left the Veins of 
 Stones {hooting oat of them ; as in a decay’d Bo- 
 dy the Flefli is Hill fhrinking from the Bones. The 
 Natural Hi (lories of Switzerland talk very much 
 of the Fall of thefe Rocks, and the great Damage 
 I they have fometimes done, when their Founda- 
 j tions have been mouldred with Age, or rent by 
 j an Earthquake. We faw in feveral Parts of the 
 Alps that bordered -upon us vaft Pits of Snow, as 
 : feveral Mountains that lie at a greater Diftance 
 'are wholly covered with it. I fanfy’d the Con- 
 fuiion of Mountains and Hollows I here ob- 
 ferved, furnilhed me with a more probable Rea- 
 ■ fon than any I have met with for thofe Periodi- 
 cal Fountains in Switzerland , which flow only at 
 fuch particular Hours of the Day. For as the 
 Tops of thefe Mountains caft their Shadows up- 
 on one another, they hinder the Sun’s fhining on 
 feveral Parts at fuch certain times, fo that there 
 are feveral Heaps of Snow which have the Sun 
 tying upon them two or three Hours together, and 
 are in the Shade all the Day afterwards. If there- 
 fore it happens that any particular Fountain takes 
 its Rife from any of thefe Refervoirs ©f Snow it will 
 naturally begin to flow on fuch Hours of the Day 
 as the Snow begins to melt : but as foon as 
 the Sun leaves it again to freeze and harden 
 the Fountain dries up, and receives no more 
 Supplies ’till about the fame time the next Day, 
 when the Heat of the Sun again fets the Snows 
 running that fall into the fame little Conduits, 
 Traces, and Canals, and by confequence break 
 out and difeover themfelves always in the fame 
 Place. At the very Extremity of the Lake the 
 
 Rhone 
 
264 Geneva and the Lake. 
 
 Rhone enters, and when I faw it, brought along 
 with it a prodigious Quantity of Water, the Ri- 
 vers and Lakes of this Country being much higher 
 in Summer than in Winter, by reafon of the 
 melting of the Snows. One would wonder how 
 fo many Learned Men could fall into fo great an 
 Abfurdity, as to believe this River could preferve 
 itfelf unmix’d with the Lake, till its going out a- 
 gain at Geneva , which is a Courfe of many Miles. 
 It was extremely muddy at its Entrance, when 
 I faw it, though as clear as Rock- Water at its 
 going out. Befides, that it brought in much more 
 Water than it carried off. The River indeed pre- 
 ferves itfelf for about a Quarter of a Mile in the 
 Lake, but is afterwards fo wholly mix’d, and loft 
 with the Waters of the Lake, that one difcovers 
 nothing like a Stream ’till within about a Quarter 
 of a Mile of Geneva. From the End of the Lake to 
 the Source of the Rhone is a Valley of about four. 
 Days Journey in Length, which gives the Name 
 of Vallefins to its Inhabitants, and is the Domi-' 
 nion of the Bifhop of Sion. We lodg’d the fe- ; 
 cond Night at Villa Neuve , a little Town in the 
 Canton of Bern, where we found good Accom- 
 modations, and a much greater Appearance ^ of 
 Plenty than on the other fide of the Lake. The 
 next Day, having paffed by the Caftle of Chi l-;. 
 Ion, we came to V erfoy , another i own in the 
 Canton of Bern, where Ludlow retired after hav- : 
 ing left Geneva and Laitfanne. The Magiftrates 
 of the T own warned him out of the firft by the 
 Sollicitation of the Dutchefs of Orleans, as the j 
 Death of his Friend Lip made him quit the other, j 
 He probably chofe this Retreat as a Place of the j 
 greateft Safety, it being an cafy matter to know 
 
 what 
 
Geneva and the Lake. 265 
 
 what Strangers are in the Town, by reafon of its 
 Situation. The Houfe he lived in has this Infcrip- 
 tion over the Door ; 
 
 Omne folum forti patria 
 quia patris. 
 
 The hr ft Part is a Piece of a Verfe in Ovid, as 
 the laft is a Cant of his own. He is buried in the 
 beft of the Churches with the following Epitaph. 
 
 Sifte gradum et refpice. 
 
 Hie jacet Edmond Ludlow Anglus Nations, Pro- 
 vincice JViltonienJis , filius Henrici Equejlris Ordi- 
 nis , Senatorifque Parliament'!, cujus quoque fuit 
 ipfe membrmn, Patrum Jlemmate clarus et nobilis * 
 virtute propria nobilior , Religione protejlans et in- 
 figni pietate corufcus , JEtatis Anno 23 Tribunus 
 Militum , paulopojl exercitus prat or primarius. Tunc 
 Hibernorinn domitor , in pugnd intrepidus et vita 
 prodigus , in Tidtorid clemens et manfuetus , patria 
 Libertatis Defen for, et potejlatis Arbitrarice pro - 
 pugnator acerrimus ; cujus caufa. ab eddem patria 
 3 2 annis extorris, meliorique fortuna Dignus apud 
 Helvetios fe recepit, ibique cetatis Anno 73 Mo- 
 rtens fui defiderium Relinquens fedes aternas Icetus 
 advolavit. 
 
 Hocce Monumentum , in perpetuam veree et fin- 
 cerce pietatis erga Maritum defunttum memori- 
 am, dicat et <vovet Domina Elizabeth de Thomas, 
 ejus Jlrenua et moefliffima, tam in infortuniis quam 
 in matrimonio confors diledtiffima , qua animi rnag- 
 nitudine et vi amoris conjugalis mota eum in exi- 
 lium ad obitum ufque conjlanter fecuta ejl. Anno 
 Dom, 1693. 
 
 M 
 
 Ludlow 
 
266 Geneva and the Lake. 
 
 Ludlovj was a conftant Frequenter of Sermons 
 -and Prayers, but would never Communicate with 
 them either of Geneva or Vevy. Juft by his Mo- 
 nument is a Tombftone with the following In- 
 fcription. 
 
 Depojitorium. 
 
 Andrea Broughton Armtgeri Angllcani Maydjlmen - 
 (is in Comitatu Cantii ubi bis prat or Urbanus. Dig- 
 natufque etiam fu 'tt fententiajn Regis Regum profari. 
 Apuam ob caufam expulfus patrid fud , peregrinations 
 ejus finitd , Jolo fenetiutis ?norbo ajfeftus requiefcens 
 n laboribus fuis in Domino obdormwit , 23 die Feb . 
 Anno D. 1687. atatis fua 84. The Inhabitants 
 of the Place could give no Account of this 
 'Broughton, but, I fuppole, by his Epitaph, it is the 
 fame Perfon that was Clerk to the pretended High 
 Court of Juftice, which palled Sentence on the 
 Royal Martyr. 
 
 The next Day we 'fpent at Laufanne , the 
 greateft Town on the Lake, after Geneva. We 
 faw the Wall of the Cathedral Church that was 
 opened by an Earthquake, and fhut again fome 
 Years after by a Second, The Crack can but be 
 juft difcerned at prcfcnt, though there are feveral > 
 in the Town ftill living who have formerly palled 
 through it. The Duke of Schomberg , who was 
 killed in Savoy, lies in this Church, but with- 
 out any Monument or Infcription over him. Lau- 
 fanne was once a Republick, but is now under the 
 Canton of Bern , and governed like the reft of 
 their Dominions, by a Bailif who is fent them eve- 
 ry three Years from the Senate of Bern. There 
 is one Street of this Town that has the Privilege 
 
Geneva and the Lake. 
 
 of acquitting or condemning any Perfon of their 
 own Body, in Matters of Life and Death. Eve- 
 ry Inhabi|&nt of it has his Vote, which makes a 
 Houfe here fell better than in any other Part of 
 the Town. They tell you that not many Years 
 ago it happen’d, that a Cobler had the Calling 
 Vote for the Life of the Criminal, which he very 
 gracioufly gave on the merciful Side. From Lau- 
 fianne to Geneva we coafted along the Country 
 of the Valid, which is the fruitfullefi: and bell cul- 
 tivated Part of any among the Alps. It belonged 
 formerly to the Duke of Savoy , but was won from 
 him by the Canton of Bern , and made over to it by 
 the Treaty of St. Julian , which is Hill very much 
 regretted by the Savoyard. We call’d in at Marge , 
 where there is an artificial Port, and a Show of 
 more Trade than in any other Town on the Lake. 
 From Morge we came to Nyon. The Colonia E- 
 quejlris , that Julius Cesfar fettled in this Country, 
 is generally fuppofed to have been planted in this 
 Place. They have often dug up old Roman In- 
 feriptions and Statues, and as I walk’d in the 
 Town I obferved in the Walls of feveral Houfes 
 the Fragments of vaft Corinthian Pillars, with fe- 
 veral other Pieces of Architecture, which mull 
 have formerly belonged to fome very noble Pile 
 of Building. There is no Author that mentions 
 this Colony, yet it is certain by feveral old Roman 
 Infcriptions that there was fuch an one. Lucan 
 indeed fpeaks of a Part of CafaV s Army, that 
 came to him from the Leman Lake in the begin- 
 ning of the Civil War. 
 
 Deferuere cavo tentoria fix a Lemannt. 
 
268 Geneva and the hake. 
 
 At about five Miles difiance from Nyon they 
 fltow frill the Ruins of Cafar’s Wall, that reached 
 ■eighteen Miles in. Length from Mount 'Jura to 
 the Borders of the Lake, as he has deferibed it in 
 the firft Book of his Commentaries. The next 
 Town upon the Lake is V erf ay , which we could 
 not have an opportunity of feeing, as belonging 
 to the King of France. It has the Reputation of 
 being extremely poor and beggarly. We failed 
 from hence dire&ly for Geneva , which makes 
 a very noble Show from the Lake. There are 
 near Geneva feveral Quarries of Freeftone that 
 run under the Lake. When the Water is at low- 
 ed they make within the Borders of it a little 
 Square inclofed with four Walls. In this Square 
 they fink a Pit, and dig for Freeftone; the Walls 
 hindering the Waters from coming in upon them, 
 when the Lake rifes and runs on all Sides of them.- 
 The great Convenience of Carriage makes thefe 
 Stones much cheaper than any that can be found 
 upon firm Land. One fees feveral deep Pits that 
 have been made at feveral times as one fails over 
 them. As the Lake approaches Geneva it grows 
 dill narrower and narrower, ’till at laft it changes 
 its Name into the Rhone , that turns all the Mills 
 of the Town, and is extremely rapid, notwith- 
 ftanuing its Waters are very deep. As I have feen 
 great Part of the Courfe of this River, I cannot 
 but think it has been guided by the particular Hand 
 of Providence. It rifes in the very Heart of the 
 dips, and has a long Valley that feems hewn 
 out on purpofe to give its Waters a Paflage a- 
 midft fo many Rocks and Mountains which arc 
 ©n all Sides of it. This brings it almoft in a di- 
 rect 
 
Geneva and the Lake. 269 
 
 reft Line to Geneva. It would there overflow all 
 the Country, were there not one particular Cleft 
 that divides a vaft Circuit of Mountains, and con- 
 veys it off to Lyons. From Lyons there is another 
 great Rent, which runs acrofs the whole Country 
 in almoft another ftraight Line, and notwithftand- 
 ing the vaft Height of the Mountains that rife 
 about it, gives it the fhorteft Courfe it can take 
 to fall into the Sea. Had fuch a River as this 
 been left to it felf to have found its way out from 
 among the Alps , whatever Windings it had made 
 it muft have formed feveral little Seas, and have 
 laid many Countries under Water before it had 
 come to the End of its Courfe. I fhall not nia^e 
 any Remarks upon Geneva , that is a Republic!;, 
 fo well known to the Englijh. It lies at prefent 
 under fome Difficulties by reafon of the Empe- 
 ror’s Difpleafure, who has forbidden the Importa- 
 tion of their Manufactures into any Part of the 
 Empire, which will certainly raife a Sedition a- 
 mong the People, unlefs the Magiftrates find fome 
 way to remedy it : and they fay it is already done 
 by the Interpofition of the States of Holland. 
 The Occafion of the Emperor’s Prohibition was 
 their furnilhing great Sums to the King of France 
 for the Payment of his Army in Italy. They 
 obliged themfelves to remit, after the rate of 
 twelve hundred thoufand Pounds Sterling per An~ 
 num , divided into fo many Monthly Payments. 
 As the Intereft was very great, feveral of the 
 Merchants of Lyons , who would not truft their 
 King in their own Names, are faid to have con- 
 tributed a great deal under the Names of Geneva 
 Merchants. The Republick fanfies it felf hardly 
 M 3 treated 
 
2 7° Geneva and the Lake . 
 
 treated by the Emperor, fince it is not any A&idn 
 of the State, but a Compaq among private Perfons 
 that have furmfhed out thefe feveral Remittances, 
 i hey pretend however to have put a ftop to 
 them, and by that means are in hopes again to 
 open their Commerce into the Empire. b 
 
 Fribourg. > 
 
Fribourg-, Bern, Soleurre , 
 
 Zurich, St. Gaul, 
 
 Linda w, &c. 
 
 ROM Geneva I travelled to Lau - 
 fanne , and thence to Fribourg, which ■ 
 is but a mean Town for the Capital 
 of fo large a Canton : Its Situation 
 is fo irregular, that they are forced to 
 climb up to feveral Parts of it by 
 Stair-cafes of a prodigious Afcent. This Inconve- 
 nience however gives them a very great Commo- 
 dity in cafe a Fire breaks out in any Part or the 
 Town, for by reafon of feveral Refervoirs on the 
 tops of thefe Mountains, by the opening of a Sluice 
 they convey a River into what Part of the Town 
 they pleafe. They have four Churches, four Con- 
 vents of Women, and as many lor TVIen. Fl»e 
 little Chapel, called the Salutation , is very neat, 
 and built with a pretty Fancy. The College ot 
 Jefuits is, they fay, the fineft in Switzerland. 
 There is a great deal of Room in it, and feve- 
 ral beautiful Views from the different Parts of it. 
 They have a Colle&ion of Pictures reprefenting 
 moft of the Fathers of their Order, who have been 
 M 4 Eminent 
 
2 7 2 Switzerland. 
 
 Eminent for their Piety or Learning. Among the 
 re ™ny Englijh Men whom we name Rebels, 
 and they Martyrs Henry Garnet’s Infcription 
 1 ?> s > That when the Hereticks could not prevail 
 withhim, either by Force or Promifes to change 
 fl ls they hanged and quartered him. At 
 
 the Lapucins I faw the Efcargatoire, which I took 
 tii 3 more notice of, becaufe I do not remember to 
 have met with any thing of the fame nature in 
 omer Countries It is a fquare Place boarded in, and 
 hhed with a vaft quantity of large Snails, that are 
 cMccmed excellent Food when they are well dreffed. 
 / ne , fo°. r ] s Crowed about half a Foot deep with 
 
 Si a - f TX 0 / Plan 7’ amon g which the Snails 
 i. edle all the Winter Seafon. When Lent arrives 
 t ney open their Magazines, and take, out of them 
 
 , , F ° 0d in the World ’ for ^ere is 
 
 no J.fh of h ifh that they reckon comparable to a 
 Ragout of Snails. r 
 
 About two Leagues from Fribourg we went to 
 lee a Hermitage, that is reckon’d the greateft Cu- 
 riofity of thefe Parts. It lies in the prettieft So- 
 ntude imaginable, among Woods and Rocks, 
 whicn at fir ft fight difpofe a Man to be ferious. 
 
 1 here has lived in it a Hermite thefe five and 
 twenty rears, who with his own Hands has 
 worked in the Rock a pretty Chapel, a Sacrifty, 
 a Cnamoer, Kitchij^, Cellar, and other Conve- 
 mences. His Chimney is carry’d up through the 
 whole Rock, fo that you fee the Sky through it, 
 notwithftanding the Rooms lie very deep. He 
 has cut the Side of the Rock into a Flat for a 
 Craiden, and by laying on it the wafte Earth that 
 he has iound in feveral of the neighbouring Parts, 
 has made fuch a Spot of Ground of it as 
 
 furnifhes 
 
Switzerland. 273 
 
 furnifhes out a kind of Luxury for an Hermite. As 
 he faw drops of Water dialling from feveral Parts 
 of the Rock, by following the Veins ot them, he 
 has made himfelf two or three Fountains in the 
 Rowels of the Mountain, tht ferve his Table, and 
 water his little Garden. 
 
 We had very bad Ways from hence to Bern , a 
 great Part of them through Woods of Fir-trees. The 
 great Quantity of Timber they have in this Coun- 
 try makes them mend their Highways with Wood 
 inftead of Stone. I could not but take notice of the 
 Make of feveral of their Barns I here faw. After 
 having laid a Frame of Wood for the f oundation, 
 they place at the four Corners of it four huge Blocks, 
 cut in fuch a Shape as neither Mice nor any other 
 fort of Vermin can creep up the Sides of them, at 
 the fame time that they raife the Corn above the 
 Moifture that might come into it from the Ground. 
 The whole Weight of the Barn is fupportedby thefe 
 four Blocks. 
 
 What pleafed me moft at Bern was their publick 
 Walks by the great Church. They are raifed ex- 
 tremely high, and that their W eight might not break 
 down the Walls and Pilafters which furround them, 
 they are built upon Arches and Vaults. . Tho they 
 are, I believe, as high as moft Steeples in England 
 from the Streets and Gardens that lie at the f oot 
 of them, yet about forty Years ago, a Perfon in 
 his Drink fell down from the very top to the bot- 
 tom, without doing himfelf any other hurt than 
 the breaking of an Arm. He dy’d about four 
 Years ago. There is the nobleft Summer-Pro- 
 fpea in the World from this Walk, for you have 
 a full View of a huge Range of Mountains that 
 lie in the Country of the Grifons , and are bury’d 
 M 5 in 
 
274 Switzerland. 
 
 in Snow. They are about twenty five Leagues di- 
 fance from the Town, though by reafon of their 
 Height and then Colour they feem much nearer, i 
 The Cathedral Church hands on one fide ofthefe j 
 Walks, and is perhaps the moft magnificent of any ] 
 Proteftant Church in Hu?' ope , out of F ngland It I 
 is a very bold Work, and a Mafter-piece in Gothic I 
 Architecture. 
 
 I faw the Arfenal of Bern , where they fay there i 
 are Arms for twenty thoufand Men. There is I 
 indeed no great Pleafure in vifiting thefe Maga- 
 zines of W ar after one has feen two or three of 
 them, yet it is very well worth a Traveller’s while 
 to look into all that lie in his Way ; for befides the 
 Idea it gives him of the Forces of a State, it ferves 
 to fix in his Mind the moft con fiderable Parts of its I 
 Hi dory. Thus in that of Geneva one meets with 
 
 the Laddeis, retard, and other Utenfils which were 
 made ufe of in their famous Efcalade, befides the 
 Weapons they took of the Savoyards , Florentines , 
 and French in the feveral Battles mentioned in their 
 Hiftory. In this of Bern you have the Figure and 
 Armour of the Count who founded the Town, of 
 the famous lell, who is reprefented as {hooting at 
 the Apple on his Son’s Head. The Storv is too 
 well known to be repeated in this Place. ' I here 
 like wife faw the Figure and Armour of him that 
 headed the Peafants in the War upon Bern? , with 
 the feveral Weapons which were found in the 
 Hands of his Followers. They fhow too abun- 
 dance of Arms that they took from the Burgundians 
 in the three great Battles which eftablifh’d them in 
 their Liberty, and deftroy’d the Great Duke of i 
 Burgundy himfelf, with the braveft of his Subjects 
 I law nothing remarkable in the Chambers where 
 
 the 
 
Switzerland. 275 
 
 the Council meet, nor in the Fortifications of the 
 Town. Thefe laft were made on Occafion of the 
 Peafants Infurre£lion, to defend the Place for the 
 future againft the like fudden Aflaults. In their 
 Library I obferved a couple of antique Figures in 
 Metal/ of a Prieft pouring Wine between the Horns 
 of a Bull. The Prieft is veil’d after the manner of 
 the old Roman Sacrifices, and is reprelented in the 
 fame Adion that Virgil defcnbes in the thud 
 
 /. Eneid . 
 
 Ufa tenens dextrd pater am pulcherrima Dub, 
 Candentis vaccce media inter cornua fundit. 
 
 This Antiquity was found at Laufanne. 
 
 The Town of Bern is plentifully furnilh d with 
 Water, there being a great multitude of handfome 
 Fountains planted at fet Diftances fiom cue cm o 
 the Streets to the other. There is indeed no Coun- 
 try in the World better fupply’d with Water, than 
 the feveral Parts of Switzerland that I traveil d 
 through. One meets every where in the Hoads 
 v/ith ^ Fountains continually running into _ huge 
 Troughs that ftand underneath them, which is 
 wonderfully commodious in a Country that o 
 much abounds with Horfes and Cattle. K ^ 0 
 many Springs breaking out of the Sides of the Hills, 
 and fuch vaft Quantities of Wood to make i ipes 
 of, that it is no Wonder they are. fo well ftockd 
 with Fountains. 
 
 On the Road between Bern and Solemn e there 
 is a Monument eredled by the Republick of Bern, 
 which tells us the Story of an Englijh Man, who 
 js not to be met with in any of our own W r iters. 
 
2j6 
 
 Switzerland. 
 
 The Infcription is in Latin Verfe on one fide of 
 . e Stone, and in German on the other. I had not 
 tune to Copy it, but the Subftance of it is this 
 
 « n£ Man, to whom the 
 
 Duke of Auftria had given his Sifter in Marriage, 
 came to take her from among the Swift by Force 
 of Arms, but after having ravaged the Country 
 
 &„ZV‘£% he was here overthrown *>» 
 
 Soleurre is our next confiderable Town that 
 teemed to me to have a greater Air of Politenefs 
 than any I law in Switzerland. The French Am- 
 baftador has his Refidence in this Place. His Maf- 
 ter contributed a great Sum of Money to the 
 Jeiuits Church, which is not yet quite finifhed. It 
 is the fineft modern Building in Switzerland. The 
 °,'d Cathedral Church ftood not far from it. At 
 
 ! eadS f° k are a cou P le of antique 
 Pdhrs, which belonged to an old heathen Tem- 
 ple, dedicated to Hermes : They feem Tufcan by 
 tne.r Proportion. The whole Fortification of si 
 Furre is faced with Marble. But its beft Fortifi- 
 cations are the high Mountains that lie within its 
 
 £fi'l'° Urh ° 0d ’ and feparate it: from the tranche 
 
 p. J he next ^ a y’s Journey carry’d us through other 
 of M/r^ Ca ? ton of Bern , t0 th e little g Town 
 p fM e fu ngen I } Was h-’rprized to find in all my 
 - , d through Switzerland, the Wine that grows 
 in the Country of Vaud on the Border of the 
 Lake of Geneva , which is very cheap, notwith- 
 standing the great diftance between the V-'neyards 
 and the 7 owns that fell the Wine. But theVa 
 
 to §a th e em '"in S th f Swit r Ze £ and are as commodious 
 them in thls tefpedl, as the Sea is to the 
 
 Englifh. 
 
Switzerland. 227 
 
 Englijh. As foon as the Vintage is over, they fhip 
 off their Wine upon the Lake, which furnifhes 
 all the Towns that lie upon its Borders. What 
 they defign for other Parts of the Country they 
 unload at Vevy, and after about half a Day’s Land- 
 Carriage convey it into the River Aar, which 
 brings it down the Stream to Bern, Soleurre , and, 
 in a word, diftributes it through all the richeft 
 Parts of Switzerland ; as it is eafy to guefs from 
 the firft fight of the Map, which fliows us the na- 
 tural Communication Providence has formed be- 
 tween the many Rivers and Lakes of a Country 
 that is at fo great a diftance from the Sea. The 
 Canton of Bern is reckoned as powerful as all the 
 reft together. They can fend a hundred thoufand 
 Men into the Field ; tho’ the Soldiers of the Ca- 
 tholick Cantons, who are much poorer, and there- 
 fore forced to enter oftner into Foreign Armies, are 
 more efteemed than the Proteftants. 
 
 We lay one Night at Meldingen, which is a 
 little Roman Catholick Town with one Church, 
 and no Convent. It is a Republick of it felf, un- 
 der the Protection of the eight ancient Cantons. 
 There are in it a hundred Burgeois, and about a 
 thoufand Souls. Their Government is modelled 
 after the fame manner with that of the Cantons, 
 as much as fo fmall a Community can imitate thofe 
 of fo large an extent. For this Reafon, though 
 they have very little Bufinefs to do, they have all the 
 Variety of Councils and Officers that are to be met 
 with in the greater States. They have a Town- 
 houfe to meet in, adorn’d with the Arms of the 
 eight Cantons their ProteCtors. They have three 
 Councils, the Great Council of fourteen, the Little 
 Council of ten, and the Privy Council of three. The 
 
 chief 
 
278 Switzerland. 
 
 chief of the State are the two Avoyers : When I 
 was there, the reigning Avoyer, or Doge of the 
 Commonwealth, was Son to the Inn where I was 
 lodg’d. His Father having enjoy’d the fame Ho- 
 nours before him. His Revenue amounts to about 
 thirty Pound a Year. The feveral Councils meet 
 every Thurfday upon Affairs of State, fuch as the 
 Reparation of a Trough, the mending of a Pave- 
 ment, or any the like Matters of Importance. 
 The River that runs through their Dominions puts 
 them to the Charge of a very large Bridge, that 
 is all made of Wood, and coped over Head, like 
 the reft in Switzerland. Thcfe that travel over it 
 pay a certain Due towards the Maintenance of 
 this Bridge. And as the French Ambaffador has 
 often occafton to pafs this Way, his Mafter gives 
 the Town a Penfton of twenty Pound Sterling, 
 which makes them extremely induftrious to raife 
 all the Men they can for his Service, and keeps 
 this powerful Republick firm to the French Intereft. 
 You may be fure the preferving of the Bridge, with 
 the Regulation of the Dues arifing from it, is the 
 grand Affair that cuts out Employment for the fe- 
 veral Councils of State. They have a fmall Vil- 
 lage belonging to them, whither they punctually 
 fend a Bailif for the Diftribution of juftice; in 
 Imitation ftill of the Great Cantons. There are 
 three other Towns that have the fame Privileges 
 and Protestors. 
 
 We dined the next Day at Zurich , that is pret- 
 tily fituated on the Out-let of the Lake, and is 
 reckoned the handfomeft Town in Switzerland. 
 The chief Places fhown to Strangers are the Arfe- 
 nal, the Library, and the Town-houfe. This laft 
 is hut lately finilhed, and is a very fine Pile of 
 
 Building, 
 
Switzerland. 279 
 
 Building. The Frontifpiece has Pillars of a beau- 
 tiful black Marble flreaked with white, which is 
 found in the neighbouring Mountains. The Cham- 
 bers for the feveral Councils, with the other A- 
 partments, are very neat. The whole Building is 
 indeed fo well defign’d, that it would make a good 
 Figure even in Italy. It is pity they have fpoil’d 
 the Beauty of the Walls with abundance of childifh 
 Latin Sentences, that confift often in a Jingle of 
 Words. I have indeed obferved in feveral Infcrip- 
 tions of this Country, that your Men of Learning 
 here are extremely delighted in playing little Tricks 
 with Words and Figures; for your Swifs Wits 
 are not yet got out of the Anagram and Acroflick, 
 The Library is a very large Room, pretty well fil- 
 led. Over it is another Room furnifh’d with fe- 
 veral artificial and natural Curiofities. I Law in 
 it a huge Map of the whole Country of 'Zurich 
 drawn with a Penfil, where they fee every parti- 
 cular Fountain and Hillock in their Dominions 1 . 
 I ran over their Cabinet of Medals, but don’t re- 
 member to have met with any in it that are extra- 
 ordinary rare. The Arfenal is better than that of 
 Bern , and they fay has Arms for thirty thoufand 
 Men. At about a Day’s Journey from Zurich 
 we entered on the Territories of the Abbot of St. 
 Gaul. They are four Hours riding in Breadth, and 
 twelve in Length. The Abbot can raife in it an 
 Army of twelve thoufand Men well armed and ex- 
 ercifed. He is Sovereign of the whole Country, 
 and under the Protection of the Cantons of Zu- 
 rich, Lucerne , Glaris and Switz. He is always 
 chofen out of the Abby of Benedictines at St. Gaul. 
 Every Father and Brother of the Convent has a 
 Voice in the Election, which mult afterwards 
 
 b« 
 
280 Switzerland. 
 
 be confirmed by the Pope. The laft Abbot was 
 Cardinal Sfondrati , who was advanced to the Pur- j 
 pie about two Years before his Death. The Ab- 
 bot takes the Advice and Confent of his Chapter i 
 before he enters on any Matter of Importance, 
 as the levying of a Tax, or declaring of a War! 
 His chief Lay-Officer is the Grand Maitre d' Hotel, ' 
 or High Steward of the Houfhold, who is named j 
 by the Abbot, and has the Management of all j 
 Affairs under him. There are feveral other Judges 
 and Diftributers of Juftice appointed for the fe- 
 veral Parts of his Dominions, from whom there j 
 always lies an Appeal to the Prince. His Refi- ! 
 dence is generally at the Benedifiine Convent at 
 St. Gaul , notwithftanding the Town of St. Gaul 
 is a little Proteftant Republick, wholly indepen- 
 dent of the Abbot, and under the Proteftion of the 
 Cantons. 
 
 One would wonder to fee fo many rich Bur- 
 geois in the Town of St. Gaul, and fo very few 
 poor People in a Place that has fcarce any Lands 
 belonging to it, and little or no Income but what 
 arifes from its Trade. But the great Support and 
 Riches of this little State is in its Linen Manufac- 
 ture, which employs almoft all Ages and Con- 
 ditions of its Inhabitants. The whole Country 
 about them furnilhes them with vaft Quantities 
 of Flax, out of which they are faid to make year- 
 ly forty thoufand Pieces of Linen Cloth, reckon- 
 ing two hundred Ells to the Piece. Some of 
 their Manufacture is as finelv wrought as any that 
 can be met with in Holland ; for they have excel- 
 lent Artifans, and great Commodities for whiten- 
 ing. All the fields about the Town were co- 1 
 vered with their Manufacture, that coming in the 
 
 Dusk 
 
Switzerland. 281 
 
 Dusk of the Evening we miftook them for a Lake. 
 They fend of their Works upon Mules into Italy, 
 Spain , Germany , and all the adjacent Countries. 
 They reckon in the Town of St. Gaul , and in 
 the Houfes that lie fcattered about it, near ten thou- 
 fand Souls, of which there are fixteen hundred 
 Burgeois. They choofe their Councils and Burgo- 
 Maiiers out of the Body of the Burgeois, as in the 
 other Governments of Switzerland , which are eye- 
 rv where cf the fame Nature, the difference lying 
 only in the Numbers of fuch as are employed 
 in State Affairs, which are proportioned to the 
 Grandeur of the States that employ them. 1 he 
 Abby and the Town bear a great Averfion to one 
 another ; but in the general Diet of the Cantons 
 their Reprefentatives fit together, and a£f by Con- 
 cert. The Abbot deputes his Grand Maitre d’ Hotel, 
 and the Town one of its Burgo-Maffers. 
 
 About four Years ago the Town and Abby 
 would have come to an open Rupture, had it not 
 been timely prevented by the Interpofition of 
 their common Prote&ors. The Occafion was this. 
 A Benedictine Monk, in one of their annual 
 Procefiions, carried his Crofs erected thro’ the 
 Town with a Train of three or four thoufand 
 Peafants following him. They had no iooner 
 entered the Convent but the whole Town was 
 in a Tumult, occafion’d by the Infolence of the 
 Prieff, who, contrary to all Precedents, had pre- 
 fumed to carry his Crofs in that manner. The 
 Burgeois immediately put themfelves in Arms, 
 and drew down four Pieces of their Cannon to 
 the Gates of the Convent. The Proceffion to 
 efcape the Fury of the Citizens durft not return 
 by the Way it came, but after the Devotions of 
 
282 Switzerland. 
 
 the Monks were finifh’d, pafs’d out at a Back- ■ 
 door of the Convent, that immediately led into’; 
 the Abbot’s Territories. The Abbot on his part 1 
 raifes an Army, blocks up the Town on the Side 
 that faces his Dominions, and forbids his Sub- 
 je£fs. to furnifh it with any of their Commodities. 
 While Things were juft ripe for a War, the Can- 
 tons, their Protestors, interpos’d as Umpires in 
 the Quarrel, condemning the Town that had ap- 
 pear’d too forward in the Difpute' to a Fine of 
 two thoufand Crowns j and enacting at the 
 fame time, That as foon as any Proceflion en- 
 ter’d their Walls, the Prieft fhould let the Crofs 
 hang about his Neck without touching it with ei- 
 ther Hand, ’till he came within the Precin&s of 
 the Abby. The Citizens could bring into the 
 Field near two thoufand Men well exercis’d, 
 and arm’d to the beft Advantage, with which they 
 fanfy they could make Head againft twelve or 
 fifteen thoufand Peafants, for fo many the Ab- 
 bot could eafily raife in his Territories. But the 
 Proteftant Subje&s of the Abbey, who they fay 
 make up a good Third of its People, would pro- 
 bably, in cafe of a War, abandon the Caufe of 
 their Prince for that of their Religion. The 
 Town of St. Gaul has an Arfenal, Library, 
 Town-houfes, and Churches proportionable to 
 the Bignefs of the State. It is well enough forti- 
 fy’d to refift any fudden Attack, and to give the 
 Cantons time to come to their Afilftance. The 
 Abby is by no means fo Magnificent as one 
 would expetft from its Endowments. The Church 
 is one huge Nef with a double Aifie to it. At 
 each End is a large Quire. The one of them is 
 fupported by vaft Pillars of Stone, cas’d over 
 
 with 
 
Switzerland. 283 
 
 with a Compofition that looks the moft like Mar- 
 ble of any thing one can imagine. On the Cieling 
 and Walls of the Church are Lifts of Saints, 
 Martyrs, Popes, Cardinals, Archbifhops, _ Kings 
 and Queens that have been of the BenediSiihe Or- 
 der. ' There are feveral Pi&ures of fuch as have 
 been diftinguifh’d by their Birth, Sanftity, or Mi- 
 racles, with Infcriptions that let you into the Name 
 and Hiftory of the Perfons reprefented. I have 
 often wifh’d that fome Traveller would take the 
 Pains to gather together all the Modern Infcripti- 
 ons which are to be met with in Roman Catho- 
 lick Countries, as Gruter and others have copyM 
 out the ancient Heathen Monuments. Had we 
 two or three Volumes of this Nature, without any 
 of the Collector ’s own Reflexions, I am fure there 
 is nothing in the World could give a truer Idea 
 of the Roman Catholick Religion, nor expofe more 
 the Pride, Vanity and Self-Intereft of Convents, 
 the Abufe of Indulgences, the Folly and Imper- 
 tinence of Votaries, and in fhort the Superftiti- 
 on, Credulity, and Childifhnefs of the Roman Ca- 
 the^ick Religion. One might fill feveral Sheets at 
 St. Gaul , as there are few confiderable Convents or 
 Churches that would not afford large Contribu- 
 tions. 
 
 As the King of France diftributes his Penfions 
 through all the Parts of Switzerland , the Town 
 and Abby of St. Gaul come in too for their Share. 
 To the firft he gives five hundred Crowns per An- 
 num !, and to the other a thoufand. This Penfion 
 has not been paid thefe three Years, which they 
 attribute to their not acknowledging the Duke of 
 Anjou for King of Spain. The Town and Abby 
 of St. Gaul carry a Bear in their Arms. The 
 
 Roman 
 
284 Switzerland. 
 
 Roman Catholicks have this Bear’s Memory in 
 very great Veneration, and reprefent him as the 
 iirfi Convert their Saint made in the Country. 
 One of the moft Learned or the Benedidiwe Monks 
 gave me the following Hiftory of him, which he 
 deliver’d^ to me with Tears of Affedfion in his 
 Eyes. St. Gaul it feems, whom they call the 
 great A 00 die of Germany , found all this Country 
 little better than a vaft Defart. As he was walk- 
 ing in it on a very cold Day he chanc’d to meet 
 a Bear in his V 7 a y. T. he Saint, inf lead of being 
 flartled at the Rencounter, order’d the Bear to bring 
 him a Bundle of Wood, and make him a Fire! 
 I he Bear ferv’d him to the bef}: of his Ability, 
 and at his Departure was commanded by the Saint 
 to retire into the very Depth of the Woods, and 
 there to pafs the reft of his Life without ever hurt- 
 ing Man or Beaft. From this time, fays the 
 Monk, the Bear liv’d irreproachably, and obferv’d 
 to his dying Day the Orders that the Saint had 
 given him. 
 
 I have often conflder’d, with a great deal of 
 Pleafure, the profound Peace and Tranquillity 
 that reigns in Switzerland and its Alliances. It 
 is very wonderful to fee fuch a Knot of Govern- 
 ments, Which are fo divided among themfelves in 
 Matters of Religion, maintain fo uninterrupted an 
 Union and Correfpondence, that no one of them 
 is for invading the Rights of another, but remains 
 content within the Bounds of its firft Eftablifh- 
 ment. This, I think, muft be chiefly afcribed to 
 the nature of the People, and the Conftitution of 
 their Governments. Were the Swifs animated by 
 <^eal or Ambition, fome or other of their States 
 would immediately break in upon the reft ; or 
 
 were 
 
Switzerland. 285 
 
 v/ere the States fo many Principalities, they mi^ht 
 often have an ambitious Sovereign at the Head of 
 them, that would embroil his neighbours, and fa- 
 crifice the Repofe of his Subjects to his own Glo- 
 ry. But as the Inhabitants of thefe Countries are 
 naturally of a heavy phlegmetick Temper, if any 
 of their leading Members have more Fire and Spirit 
 than comes to their Share, it is quickly temper’d 
 by the Coldnefs and Moderation of the reft who 
 fit at the Helm with them. To this we may add, 
 that the Alps is the worft Spot of Ground in the 
 World to make Conquefts in, a great Part of its 
 Governments being fo naturally intrenched among 
 Woods and Mountains. However it be, we find 
 no fuch Diforders among them as one would expedt 
 in fuch a Multitude of States ; for as foon as any 
 publick Rupture happens, it is immediately clos’d up 
 by the Moderation and good Offices of the reft that 
 interpofe. 
 
 As all the confiderable Governments among the 
 Alps are Commonwealths, fo indeed it is a Con- 
 ftitution the moft adapted of any other to the Po- 
 verty and Barrennefs of thefe Countries. We 
 may fee only in a neighbouring Government the 
 ill Confequences of having a Defpotic Prince, 
 in a State that is moft of it compofed of Rocks 
 and Mountains ; for notwithftanding there is a vaft 
 Extent of Lands, and many of them better than 
 thofe of the Swifs and Grifons , the common Peo- 
 ple among the latter are much more at their 
 Eafe, and in a greater Affluence of all the Con- 
 veniencies of Life. A Prince’s Court eats too 
 much into the Income of a poor State, and gene- 
 rally introduces a kind of Luxury and Magnifi- 
 cence, that fets every particular Per fen upon ma- 
 king 
 
286 Switzerland. 
 
 king a higher Figure in his Station than is general- 
 ly confiftent with his Revenue. 
 
 It is the great Endeavour of the feveral Can- 
 tons of Switzerland, to banifh from among them 
 every thing that looks like Pomp or Superfluity. 
 To this End the Minifters are always Preaching, 
 and the Governors putting out Edi&s againft Dan- 
 cing, Gaming, Entertainments, and fine Clothes. 
 This is become more neceflary in fome of the 
 Governments, fince there are fo many Refugees 
 fettled among them ; for tho’ the Proteftants in 
 France affedf ordinarily a greater Plainnefs and 
 Simplicity of Manners, than thofe of the fame 
 Quality who are of the Roman Catholick Com- 
 munion, they have however too much of their 
 Country-Gallantry for the Genius and Conftitu- 
 tion of Switzerland. Should Dreffing, Feafting, 
 and Balls once get among the Cantons, their Mi- 
 litary Roughnefs would be quickly loft, their 
 Tempers would grow too foft for their Cli- 
 mate, and their Expences out-run their Incomes, 
 befides that the Materials for their Luxury muff 
 be brought from other Nations, which would im- 
 mediately ruin a Country that has few Commo- 
 dities of its own to export, and is not over- 
 ftock’d with Money. Luxury indeed wounds a 
 Republick in its very Vitals, as its natural Con- 
 fequences are Rapine, Avarice and Injuftice ; for 
 the more Money a Man fpends, the more muft 
 he endeavour to augment his Stock; which at 
 laft: fets the Liberty and Votes of a Common- 
 wealth to Sale, if they find any Foreign Power 
 that is able to pay the Price of them/ We fee 
 no where the pernicious Efte&s of Luxury on a 
 Republick more than in that of the ancient Ro- 
 mans, 
 
 
Switzerland. 287 
 
 mans, who immediately found it felf poor as foon 
 as this Vice got Footing among them, though 
 they were poffefs’d of all the Riches in the World. 
 We find in the Beginnings and Increafes of 
 their Commonwealth ftrange Inftances of the 
 Contempt of Money, becaufe indeed they were 
 utter Strangers to the Pleafure that might be 
 procured by it ; or in other Words, becaufe they 
 were wholly ignorant of the Arts of Luxury. 
 But as foon as they once enter’d into a Tafte 
 of Pleafure, Politenefs and Magnificence, they 
 fell into a thoufand Violences, Confpiracies, and 
 Divifions that threw them into all the Diforders 
 imaginable, and terminated in the utter Subver- 
 fion of the Commonwealth. It is no wonder 
 therefore the poor Commonwealths of Switzer- 
 land are ever labouring at the Suppreffion and 
 Prohibition of every thing that may introduce 
 Vanity and Luxury. Befides the feveral Fines 
 that are fet upon Plays, Games, Balls and Feaft- 
 ings, they have many Cuftoms among them which 
 very much contribute to the keeping up of their 
 ancient Simplicity. The Bourgeois, who are at 
 the Head of the Governments, are obliged to ap- 
 pear at all their publick Affemblies in a black 
 Cloak and a Band. The Womens Drefs is ve- 
 ry plain, thofe of the beft Quality wearing no- 
 thing on their Heads generally but Furs, which 
 are to be met with in their own Country. The 
 Perfons of different Qualities in both Sexes are 
 indeed allowed their different Ornaments, but 
 thefe are generally fuch as are by no means coft- 
 ly, being rather defign’d as Marks of Diftinffcion 
 than to make a Figure. The chief Officers of 
 Bern , for Example, are known by the Crowns 
 
28B Switzerland. 
 
 of their Hats, which are much deeper than thofe of j 
 an inferior Character. The Peafants are generally 
 clothed in a coarfe kind of Canvas, that is the 
 Manufacture of the Country. I heir Holy-day 
 Clothes go from Father to Son, and are feldom 
 worn out, ’till the Second or Third Generation: 
 So that it is common enough to fee a Country- 
 man in the Doublet and Breeches of his Great- 
 grand-father. 
 
 Geneva is much politer than Switzerland , or 
 any of its Allies, and is therefore looked upon as 
 the Court of the Alps , whither the Proteflant Can- 
 tons often fend their Children to improve them- 
 felves in Language and Education. T. he Genevois 
 have been very much refin’d, or, as others will 
 have it, corrupted by the Converfation of the French 
 Proteftants, who make up almoit a Third of 
 their People. It is certain they have very much 
 forgotten the Advice that Calvin gave them in 
 a great Council a little before his Death, when 
 he recommended to them above all Things, an 
 Exemplary Modefty and Humility, and as great 
 a Simplicity in their Manners as in their Reli- 
 gion. Whether or no they have done well, to fet 
 up for making another kind of Figure, H ime 
 will witnefs. There arc feveral that fanfy the 
 great Sums they have remitted into Italy , though 
 by this means they make their Court to the King 
 of France at prefent, may fome time or other give 
 him an Inclination to become the Mafter of fo 
 Wealthy a City. • j 
 
 As this Collection of little States abounds 
 more in Pafturage than in Corn, they are all 
 provided with their publick Granaries, and have 
 the Humanity to furnifh one another in pub- 
 
 lick 
 
Switzerland. 
 
 289 
 
 lick Exigencies, when the Scarcity is not Univer- 
 fal. As the Adminiftration of Affairs relating to 
 thefe publick Granaries, is not very different in "any 
 of the particular Governments, I fhall content 
 my felf to fet down the Rules obferved in it by the 
 little Commonwealth of Geneva , in which I had 
 more Time to inform my felf of the Particulars 
 than in any other. There are Three of the Little 
 Council deputed for this Office. They are oblig’d 
 to keep together a Provifion fufficient to feed the 
 People at leaf!: two Years, in cafe of War or Fa- 
 mine. They muff take care to fill their Magazines 
 in Times of the greateft Plenty, that fo they may 
 afford cheaper, and increafe the publick Revenue 
 at a fmall Expence of its Members. None of the 
 Three Managers muff, upon any Pretence, furnifh 
 the Granaries from his own Fields, that fo they 
 may have no Temptation to pay too great a Price, 
 or put any bad Corn upon tTie Publick. They muff 
 buy up no Corn growing within twelve Miles of 
 Geneva , that fo the filling of their Magazines may 
 not prejudice their Market, and raife the Price of 
 their Provifions at Home. That fuch a Collection 
 of Corn may not fpoil in keeping, all the Inns and 
 Publick-Houfes are obliged to furnifh themfelves out 
 of it, by which means is railed the moll confider- 
 able Branch of the publick Revenues ; the Corn 
 being fold out at a much dearer Rate than ’tis bought 
 up. So that the greateft Income of the Common- 
 wealth, which pays the Penfions of moft of its 
 Officers and Minifters, is raifed on Strangers and 
 Travellers, or fuch of their own Body as have 
 Money enough to fpend at Taverns and Publick- 
 Houfes. 
 
 N 
 
 It 
 
2go Switzerland. 
 
 It is the Cuftom in Geneva and Switzerland , to 
 idivide their Eilates equally among all their Chil- 
 dren, by which means every one lives at his Eafe 
 without growing dangerous to the Republick, for 
 as foon as an overgrown Eftate falls into the Hands 
 of one that has many Children, it is broken in- 
 to fo many Portions as render the Sharers of it 
 Rich enough, without raifing them too much a- 
 bove the Level of the reft. This is abfolutely ne- 
 ceftary in thefe little Republicks, where the rich 
 Merchants live very much within their Eftates, and 
 by heaping up vaft Sums from Year to Year might 
 become formidable to the reft of their Fellow- 
 Citizens, and break the Equality, which is fo ne- 
 ceflary in thefe kinds of Governments, were there 
 not means found out to diftribute their Wealth a- 
 mong feveral Members of their Republick. At 
 Geneva , for Inftance, ara Merchants reckon’d worth 
 Twenty Hundred Thoufand Crowns, though, per- 
 haps, there is not one of them who fpends to the va- 
 lue of Five Hundred Pounds a Year. 
 
 Though the Proteftants and Papifts know very 
 well that it is their common Intereft to keep a 
 fteddy Neutrality in all the Wars between the States 
 of Europe , they cannot forbear Tiding with a Party 
 in their Difcourfe. The Catholicks are zealous 
 for the French King, as the Proteftants do not a 
 little glory in the Riches, Power, and good Succefs 
 of the Englijh and Dutch, whom they look upon as 
 the Bulwarks of the Reformation. The Minifters 
 in particular have often preached againft fuch of 
 their Fellow-Subjedts as enter into the Troops of 
 the French King ; but fo long as the Swifs fee their 
 Intereft in it, their Poverty will always hold them 
 Lift to his Service. They have indeed the Exer- 
 
Switzerland. 291 
 
 eife of their Religion, and their Minifters with 
 them, which is the more remarkable, becaufe the 
 very fame Prince refus’d even thofe of the Church 
 of England, who follow’d their Maher to St. Ger- 
 mains, the publick Exercife of their Religion. 
 
 Before I leave Switzerland I cannot but obferve, 
 that the Notion of Witchcraft reigns very much 
 in this Country. I have often been tired with Ac- 
 counts of this Nature from very fenfible Men that 
 are moft of them furnilh’d with Matters of Fait 
 which have happen’d, as they pretend, within the 
 compafs of their own Knowledge. It is certain 
 there have been many Executions on this Account, 
 as in the Canton of Btrn there were fome put to 
 Death during my Stay at Geneva. The People are 
 fo univerfally infatuated with the Notion, that if 
 a Cow falls fick, it is Ten to One but an Old 
 Woman is clapt up in Prifon for it, and if the 
 poor Creature chance to think her felf a Witch, 
 the whole Country is for hanging her up without 
 Mercy. One finds indeed the fame Humour pre- 
 vail in moft of the rocky barren Parts of Europe. 
 Whether it be that Poverty and Ignorance, which 
 are generally the Produ&s of thefe Countries, may 
 really engage a Wretch in fuch dark Practices, or 
 whether or no the fame Principles may not render 
 the People too credulous, and perhaps too eafy to 
 get rid of fome of their unprofitable Members. 
 
 A great Affair that employs the Swifs Politicks 
 at prefent is the Prince of Conti’s Succeffion to 
 the Dutchefs of Nemours in the Government of 
 Neuf-C hotel. The Inhabitants of Neuf-Cbatel can 
 by no means think of fubmitting themfelves to a 
 Prince who is a Roman Catholick, and a Subject of 
 France . They were very attentive to his Conduct 
 N 2 in 
 
.292 Switzerland. 
 
 in the Principality of Orange , which they did not 
 queftion but he would Rule with all the Mildnefs 
 and Moderation imaginable, as it would be the 
 beft Means in the World to recommend him to 
 Neuf-Chatel. But notwithftanding it was fo much 
 his Intereft to manage his Proteftant Subjefts in 
 that Country, and the ftrong Aflurances he had 
 given them in proteaing them in all their Privi- 
 leges^ and particularly in the free Exercife of their 
 Religion, he made over his Principality in a very 
 little time for a Sum of Money to the King of 
 France. _ It is indeed generally believed the Prince 
 of Conti would rather ft ill have kept his Title to 
 Orange , but the fame Refpea which induced him 
 to quit this Government, might at another time 
 tempt him to give up that of Neuf-Chatel on the 
 like Conditions. The King of Prujfia lays in his 
 Claim for Neuf-Chatel, as he did for the Principa- 
 lity of Orange, and ’tis probable would be more 
 acceptable to the Inhabitants than the other, but 
 they are generally difpos’d to declare themfelves 
 a Free Commonwealth, after the Death of the 
 Dutchefs of Nemours , if the Swifs will fupport them. 
 The Proteftant Cantons feem much inclined to 
 aflift them, which they may very well do, in cafe 
 the Dutchefs dies whilft the King of France has 
 his Hands fo full of Bufinefs on all Tides of him. 
 It certainly very much concerns them not to fuffer 
 the French King to eftablifh his Authority on 
 this fide Mount Jura , and on the very Borders of 
 their Country ; but it is not eafy to forefee what a 
 round Sum of Money, or the Fear of a Rupture with 
 France , may do among a People who have tamely 
 fuffer’d the Franche Compte to be feiz’d on, and a 
 Fort to be built within Cannon-lhot of one of their 
 Cantons. There 
 
Switzerland. 1Q$ 
 
 There is a new Se<ft fprung up in Switzerland 
 which fpreads very much in the Proteftant Can- 
 tons. The Profeflors of it call themfelves Pie- 
 tijls : And as Enthufiafm carries Men generally 1 
 to the like Extravagancies, they differ but little 
 from feveral Sectaries in other Countries. They 
 pretend in general to great Refinements, as to 
 what regards the Practice of Chriffianity, and to 
 obferve the following Rules. To retire much 
 from the Convevfation of the World. • To fink 
 themfelves into an intire Repofe and Tranquil- 
 lity of Mind. In this State of Silence to attend 
 the fecret Illapfe and Flowings in of the Holy 
 Spirit, that may fill their Minds with Peace and 
 Confolation, Joys or Raptures. To favour all 
 his fecret Intimations, and give themfelves up 
 intirely to his Condudt and Direction, fo as nei- 
 ther to fpeak, move, or aft, but as they find his 
 Impulfe on their Souls. To retrench themfelves 
 within the Conveniences and Neceflities of Life. 
 To make a Covenant with all their Senfes, fo 
 far as to fhun the Smell of a Rofe or Violet, 
 and to turn away their Eyes from a beautiful 
 Profpedt. To avoid, as much as is pofiible, what 
 the World calls Innocent Pleafures, left they 
 Ihould have their Affections tainted by any Senfu- 
 ality, and diverted from the Love of him who is 
 to be the only Comfort, Repofe, Hope, and De- 
 light of their whole Beings. This Sedt prevails 
 very much among the Proteftants of Germany , as 
 well as thofe of Switzerland , and has occafion’d 
 feveral Edidts againft it in the Dutchy of Saxo- 
 ny . The Profeffors of it are accus’d of all the 
 ill Practices which may feem to be the Confe- 
 quence of their Principles, as that they afcribe 
 
 N i the 
 
294 Switzerland. 
 
 the worft of Actions, which their own vicious 
 Tempers throw them upon, to the Dictates of the 
 Holy Spirit ; that both Sexes under Pretence of 
 devout Converfation vifit one another at all Hours 
 and in all Places, without any regard to common 
 Decency, often making their Religion a Cover for 
 their Immoralities ; and that the very belt of <] 
 them are poflefs’d with Spiritual Pride, and a 
 Contempt for all fuch as are not of their own 
 Se£F The Roman Catholicks, who reproach the 
 Proteftants for their breaking into fuch a Mul- 
 titude of Religions, have certainly taken the moft 
 effectual way in the World for the keeping their 
 Flocks together I don’t mean the Punilhments 
 they inflict on Mens Perfons, which are com- 
 monly look’d upon as the chief Methods by which 
 they deter them from breaking through the Pale 
 of the Church, though certainly thefe lay a very 
 great Reftraint on thofe of the Roman Catholick 
 Perfuaffon. But I take one great Caufe why 
 there are fo few Se£is in the Church of Rome ,, 
 to be the Multitude of Convents, with which they 
 every where abound, that ferve as Receptacles for 
 all thofe fiery Zealots who would fet the Church 
 in a Flame, were not they got together in thefe 
 Houfes of Devotion. All Men of dark Tempers, 
 according to their Degree of Melancholy or En- 
 thufiafm, may find Convents fitted to their Hu- 
 mours, and meet with Companions as gloomy as 
 themfelves. So that what the Proteftants would 
 call a Fanatick, is in the Roman Church a Reli- 
 gious of fuch or fuch an Order ; as I have been 
 told of an Englijh Merchant at Lisbon , who after 
 fome great Difappointments in the World was re- 
 folv’d to turn Quaker or Capucin - 3 for, in the 
 
 Change 
 
Switzerland. 295 
 
 Change of Religion, Men of ordinary Under- 
 flandings don’t fo much confider the Principles, 
 the Practice of thole to whom they go over. 
 
 From St. Gaul I took horfe to the Lake of 
 Conftance , which lies at two Leagues Dillance Loin 
 it, and is form’d by the Entry ol the Rhine. 1 his 
 is the only Lake in Europe that difputes for Great- 
 nefs with that of Geneva ; it appears more beauti- 
 ful to the Eye, but wants the fruitful Fields and 
 Vineyards that border upon the other. It receives 
 its Name from Conftance , the chief Town on its 
 Banks When the Cantons of Bern and Auric b 
 propofed, at a general Diet, the Incorporating Ge- 
 neva in the number of the Cantons, the Roman 
 Catholick Party, fearing the Proteftant Interett 
 might receive by it too great a Strengthning, p:0 
 pofed at the fame time the Incantoning ot Gcn- 
 ftance as a Counterpoife ; to which the Proteftants 
 not confenting, the whole Projedt fell to the ground 
 We crofs’d the Lake to Lindaw , and in ieveral 
 parts of it obferved abundance of little Bubbles of 
 Air, that came working upward from the very Bot- 
 tom of the Lake. The Watermen told us, that' 
 they are obferved always to rife in the fame . .aces, 
 from whence they conclude them to be fo many 
 Sorings that break out of the Bottom of the Lake. 
 Lindaw is an Imperial Town on a lithe Bland 
 that lies at about three Hundred Paces from the 
 firm Land, to which it is join’d by a huge bridge 
 of Wood. The Inhabitants were all in Arms when 
 we pafs’d through it, being under great Apprehen- 
 fions of the Duke of Bavaria, after his having fallen 
 upon Ulm and Memminghen. They flatter them- 
 felves, that by cutting their Bridge they could hold 
 out againft his Army: But, in all probability, a 
 b N 4 Shower 
 
Shower of Bombs would quickly reduce the Bur- 
 geois to Surrender. They were formerly Bombard- 
 ed by Guftavus Adolphus. We were advis’d by 
 our Merchants, by no means to venture our felves 
 
 JU M .£ e °f Bavaria ’ S Country, fo that we had 
 the Mortification to lofe the Sight of Munich, Auf- 
 burg, and Ratisbon, and were forced to take our 
 Way to Vienna through the Tirol , where we had 
 
 the Country 0 entmain us be ^ es the natural face of 
 
I R 0 L, 
 
 I N S P 
 HA L 
 
 |] F T E R having coafted the dips for 
 feme time, we at laft entered them 
 by a Paflage which leads into the 
 long Valley of the Tirol , and fol- 
 lowing the Courfe of the River Inn 
 we came to Injpruck , that receives its 
 Name from this River and is the Capital City of the 
 Tirol. 
 
 Infpruck is a handfom Town, though not a great 
 one, and was formerly the Residence of the Arch- 
 Dukes who were Counts of Tirol : The Palace where 
 they ufed to keep their Court is rathei Convenient 
 than Magnificent. The great Hall is indeed a very 
 noble Room, the Walls of it are painted in Frefco , 
 and reprefent the Labours of Hercules. Many of 
 them look very finely, though a great Part of the 
 Work has been crack’d by Earthquakes which are 
 very frequent in this Country. There is a little 
 Wooden Palace that borders on the' other, whither 
 the Court ufed to retire at the firftfhake oi an Earth- 
 quake. I faw here .the largeft Manage that I have 
 met with any where elfe. At one end of it is a great 
 Partition defigned for an Opera. They fhowed- us 
 N s alto 
 
5 , 9 3 'tiro!, Infpruck , Hall \ &cc. 
 
 alfo a very pretty Theatre. The lafh Comedy l 
 that was a. sled on it was defigned by the Je- 
 fui' , for the Entertainment of tire Queen of the j 
 Romans , who pafs’d this way from Hanoi) r to Vi- 
 enna. The Compliment which the Fathers made 
 her Majefty on this Occafon was very particular, 
 and d d not a little expofe them to the Raillery of ; 
 the Court. For the Amis of Hanover being a Horfe, \ 
 the Fathers thought it a very pretty Allufion to re- 
 prefent the Queen by Bucephalus , that would let no 
 Body get upon him but Alexander the Great. The 
 Wooden Horfe that a died this notable Part is ftill j 
 to be feen behind the Scenes. In one of the Rooms \ 
 of the Palace which is hung with the Pictures of j 
 feveral Uluftrious Perfons, they (Lowed us the Por- 
 trait of Mary Queen of the Scots, who was beheaded 
 in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth. The Gardens 
 about the Houfe are very large, but ill kept. There 
 is in the middle of them a beautiful Statue in Brafs 
 of an Arch-Duke Leopold on Horfeback. There 
 are near it twelve other Figures of Water-Nymphs 
 and River-Gods well caft, and as big as the Life. 
 They were defigned for the Ornaments of a Wa- 
 ter-Work, as one might eafdy make a great Va- 
 riety of Jetteaus, at a fmall Expence, in a Gar- 
 den that has the River Inn running by its Walls. 
 The late Duke of Lorrain had this Palace, and 
 the Government of the Tirol , affigned him by 
 the Emperor, and his Lady the Queen Dowager 
 of Poland lived here feveral Years after the Death 
 of the Duke her Husband. There are covered 
 Galleries that lead from the Palace to five dif- 
 ferent Churches. I pafled through a very long 
 one which reaches to the Church of the Capucin 
 Convent, where the Duke of Lorrain ufed often 
 
 to 
 
Tirol , Infpruck , Ball , &c. 299 
 
 to ailift at their Midnight Devotions. They fhow- 
 ed us in this Convent the Apartments of Maximi- 
 lian who was Arch-Duke and Count of Tirol a- 
 bout Fourfcore Years ago. This Prince, at the 
 fame time that he kept the Government in his 
 Hards, lived in this Convent with all the Rigor 
 and Aufterity of a Capucin. His Anti-chamber 
 and Room of Audience are little fquare Chambers 
 Wainfcoted. His private Lodgings are three or 
 four fmall Rooms faced with a kind of Fret-work, 
 that makes them look like little Hollow Caverns 
 in a Rock. They preferve this Apartment of the 
 Convent uninhabited, and (how in it the Altar, Bed 
 and Stove, as likewife a Picture and a Stamp of 
 this Devout Prince. The Church of the Francif- 
 can Convent is famous for the Monument of the 
 Emperor Maximilian the Firft, which flands in 
 the midft of it. It was eredted to him by his 
 Grand-Son Ferdinand the Firft, who probably 
 looked upon this Emperor as the Founder of the 
 Aujlrian Greatnefs. For as by his own Marriage 
 he annexed the Low-Countries to the Houfe of 
 Auftria , fo by matching his Son to JoanofAr- 
 ragon he fettled on his Pofterity the Kingdom of 
 Spain, and by the Marriage of his Grand-Son 
 Ferdinand got into his Family the Kingdoms of Bo- 
 hemia and Hungary. This Monument is only Ho- 
 norary, for the Afhes of the Emperor lie elfewhere. 
 On the Top of it is a Brafen Figure of Maximi- 
 lian on his Knees, and on the Sides of it a beau- 
 tiful Bas Relief reprefenting the Aftions ^ of this 
 Prince. His whole Hiftory is digefted into Twenty 
 Four fquare Pannels of Sculpture in Pas Relief. 
 The Subject of two of them is his Confederacy 
 With Henry the Eighth, and the Wars they made 
 
 together 
 
300 Tirol, Infpruch , Ball , &c. 
 
 together upon iW*. On each Side of this Mo- 
 nument is a Row of very noble Brafen Statues 
 much bigger than the Life, molt of them repre- 
 enting fuch as were fome way or other related to 
 Maximilian. Among the reft is one that the Fa* ' 
 thers of the Convent tell us reprefents King Arthur 
 the old Bntijh King. But what Relation had that 
 Arthur to Maximilian ? I don’t queftion therefore 
 but it was defigned for Prince Arthur, Elder Bro- 
 ther of Henry the Eighth, who had efpoufed Ca- 
 tharine, oifter of Maximilian, whofe Divorce after- 
 wards gave occafion to fuch fignal Revolutions in 
 hngland. This Church was built by Ferdinand 
 the rirft. One fees in it a kind of Offer at Mo- 
 dern Archite&ure, but at the fame time that the 
 Architect has fhown his Diflike of the Gothic man- 
 ner, one may fee very well that in that Age they 
 v. ere not, at leaft in this Country, arrived at the 
 Knowledge of the true Way. The Portal, for 
 Kxample, confifts of a Compofite Order unknown 
 to the Antientsj the Ornaments indeed are taken 
 horn them, but fo put together that you fee the 
 Volutes of the Ionic, the Foliage of the Corinthi- 
 cw, and Uovali of the Doric mix’d without any 
 Regularity on the fame Capital. So the Vault of 
 the Church, tho’ broad enough, is incumber’d with 
 too many little Tricks in Sculpture. It is indeed 
 imported with Angle Columns inftead of thofe vaft 
 Clufteis of little Pillars that one meets with in 
 Gothic Cathedrals, but at the fame time thefe Co- 
 lumns are of no regular Order, and at leaft twice 
 too long for their Diameter. There are other 
 Churches in the Town, and two or three Palaces 
 which are of a more Modem Make, and built with 
 a good kancy. I was fhown the little Hoiredame 
 
 that 
 
'Tirol, Infpruck , Hall, See. 301 
 
 that is handfomly defign’d, and topp’d with a Cu- 
 pola. It was made as an Offering of Gratitude 
 to the Bleffed Virgin, for having defended the 
 Country of the Tirol agamft the V i&orious Arms of 
 Gujlavus Adolphus , who could not enter this Part 
 of the Empire after having over-run moll of the 
 reft. This Temple was therefore built by the Con- 
 tributions of the whole Country, At about half 
 a League’s diftance from Infpruck Hands the Caftle 
 of Amras , furnifh’d with a prodigious Quantity 
 of Medals, and many other forts of Rarities both 
 in Nature and Art, for which I mull refer the 
 Reader to Monfieur Patin’s Account in his Let- 
 ter to the Duke of Wirtemberg , having my felf 
 had neither Time nor Opportunity to enter into a 
 particular Examination of them. 
 
 From Infpruck we came to Hall, that lies at a 
 League diftance on the fame River. This Place 
 is particularly famous for its Salt-Works. There 
 are in theNeigbourhood vaft Mountains of a trans- 
 parent kind of Rock not unlike Allum, extremely 
 Solid, and as piquant to the Tongue as Salt it felf. 
 Four or five hundred Men are always at work 
 in thefe Mountains, where as foon as they have hewn 
 down any Quantities of the Rock they let in their 
 Springs and Refervoirs among their Works. The 
 Water eats away and diffolves the Particles of Salt 
 v/hich are mix’d in the Stone, and is convey’d by 
 long Troughs and Canals from the Mines to the 
 Town of Hall , where ’tis received in vaft Cifterns, 
 and boil’d off from time to time. 
 
 They make after the rate of eight hundred Loaves 
 a Week, each Loaf four hundred Pound Weight. 
 Th is would raife a great Revenue to the Emperor, 
 were there here fuch a Tax on Salt as there is in 
 
 France . 
 
3'02 Tirol, Infpruck , Hall, 6 cc. 
 
 France. At prefent he clear; but two hundred thou- 
 fand Crowns a Year, after having defray’d all the 
 Charges of working it. There are in Switzerland, 
 and other Parts of the Alps , feveral of thefe Quar- 
 ries of Salt that turn to very little Account, by rea- 
 fon of the great Quantities of Wood they confume. 
 
 The Salt-Works at Hall have a great Conveni- 
 ence for Fuel, which fwims down to them on the 
 River Inn. This River, during its Courfe through 
 the Tirol , is generally fhut up between a double Range 
 of Mountains that are moft of them cover’d with 
 Woods of Fir-Trees. Abundance of Peafants are 
 employ’d in the hewing down of the largeft of thefe 
 T rees, that, after they are bark’d and cut into Shape, 
 are tumbled down from the Mountains into the 
 Stream of the River, which carries them off to the 
 Salt-Works. At Infpruck they take up vaft Quan- 
 tities for the Convents and publick Officers, who 
 have a certain Portion of it allotted them by the Em- 
 peror: the reft of it paffes onto Flail. There arc 
 generally feveral hundred Loads afloat, for they be- 
 gin to cut above twenty Leagues up the River above 
 Hall , and there are other Rivers that flow into 
 the Inn , which bring in their Contributions. Thefe 
 Salt-Works, and a Mint that is eftsblifh’datthe fame 
 Place, have render’d this Town, not with ftanding 
 the Neigbourhood of the Capital City, almoft as po- 
 pulous as Infpruck it felf. The Defign of this Mint 
 is to work off part of the Metals which are found in 
 the neighbouring Mountains; where, as we were 
 told, there are feven thoufand Men in conftant Em- 
 ploy. At Hall we took a Boat to carry us to Vienna. 
 The firft Night we lay at Rottenburg, where is a 
 ftrong Caftle above the Town. Count Serini is ftill 
 a clofe Prifoner in this Caftle, who, as they told us 
 
7 ’trol, Infpruck , UalJ , &c. 303' 
 
 in the Town, had loft his Senfes by his long Im- 
 prifonment and Afflictions. The next Day we din’d 
 at Kuff'-Jiain , where there is a Fortrefs on a high 
 Rock above the Town almoft inaceffible on all Sides : 
 This being a Frontier Place on the Dutchy of Ba- 
 varia , where we enter’d after about an Hour’s Row- 
 ing from Kuff-Jiain. It was the pleafanteft Voyage 
 in°the World to follow the Windings of this River 
 Inn through fuch a Variety of pleafing Scenes as the 
 Courfe of it naturally led us. We had fometimes 
 on each Side of us a vaft Extent of naked Rocks and 
 Mountains, broken into a thoufand irregular Steeps 
 and Precipices ; in other Places we faw a long Foreft 
 of Fir-Trees fo thick fet together, that it was impoffl- 
 ble to difcover any of the Soil they grew upon, and 
 rifing up fo regularly one above another, as to give 
 us the View of a whole Wood at once. The time 
 of the Year, that had given the Leaves of the Trees 
 fo many different Colours, compleated the Beauty of 
 the ProfpeCh But as the Materials of a fine Land- 
 skip are not always the moft profitable to the Own- 
 er of them, we met with but very little Corn or 
 Pafturage for the Proportion of Earth that we pafs’d 
 through, the Lands of the Tirol not being able to 
 feed the Inhabitants. This long Valley of the Tirol 
 lies inclofed on all Sides by the Alps, tho’ its Domi- 
 nions Ihoot out into feveral Branches that lie among 
 the Breaks and Hollows of the Mountains. It is 
 govern’d by three Councils rcfiding at Infpruck , one 
 fits upon Life and Death, the other is for Taxes and 
 Impofitions, and a third for the common Diftribu- 
 tions of Juftice. As thefe Courts regulate them- 
 felves by the Orders they receive from the Imperial 
 Court, fo in many Cafes there are Appeals from 
 them to Vienna, The Inhabitants of the Tirol have 
 
 many 
 
304 'Tirol ’, Infpruck , Hall , See. 
 
 many particular Privileges above thofe of the other 
 Hereditary Countries of the Emperor. For as they 
 are naturally well fortify’d among their Mountains, 
 and at the fame time border upon many different Go- 
 vernments, as the Grifons, Venetians, Swifs, Bava- 
 rians , & c. a fevere Treatment might tempt them 
 to fet up for a Republick, or at leaft throw themfelves 
 under the milder Government of feme of their Neigh- 
 bours: Befides that their Country is poor, and that 
 the Emperor draws confiderabie Incomes out of its 
 Mines of Salt and Metal. They are thefe Mines that 
 fill the Country with greater Numbers of People 
 than it would be able to bear without the Impor- 
 tation of Corn from Foreign Parts. The Emperor 
 has Forts and Citadels at the Entrance of all the 
 Paffes that lead into the Tirol , which are fo advan- 
 tagioufly placed upon Rocks and Mountains, that 
 they command all the Vallies and Avenues that lie 
 about them. Befides that the Country it felfiscut 
 into fo many Hills and Inequalities, as would render 
 it defenfible by a very little Army againft a nume- 
 rous Enemy. It was therefore generally thought the 
 Duke of Bavaria would not attempt the cutting off 
 any Succours that were fent to Prince Eugene ; or the 
 forcing his Way through the Tirol into Italy. The 
 River Inn , that had hitherto been fhut up among 
 Mountains, paffes generally through a wide open 
 Country during all its Courfe through Bavaria , 
 which is a Voyage of two Days, after the rate of 
 twenty Leagues a Day. 
 
 I.:N D E X.. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 A DDA, and the Addige, loth defcrib'' d by Claudian, 
 Pa g e 42, 43. 
 
 Albano, for what famous , 218. 
 
 Alps, defcrib'd by Silius fcalicus, 256. 
 
 St. Ambrofe, his refilute Behaviour towardsTheodofws the 
 Great , before the Gates of the great Church at Milan, 3 1 . 
 
 Ambrofun Library in Milan how furnijh'd, 32. 
 
 Ancona, its Situation, 90. 
 
 <SV. Anthony of Padua, his magnificent Church , 46. a na- 
 tural Perfume iffuing from his Bones, ibid, a Conjecture 
 upon it, ibid, his famous Sermon to an AJfembly ofFifh , 
 47. the Titles given him by a poor Peafant, 53. 
 
 Antiquaries , wherein faulty, 188. 
 
 Antiquities, two Sets in Rome, 175. the great Difference 
 between 'em, 176. 
 
 Antium, its extenfive Ruins, 1 68. for what famous for- 
 merly, 169. 
 
 Anxur, its pleafant Situation, 1 1 6. defcrib' d by Martial, dif c, 
 
 Appennme Mountains defcrib' d by the Latin Poets, 246. 
 
 Ariofto, his Monument in the Benedidtine Church in Fer- 
 rara, 75. 
 
 B. 
 
 Baias, the Winter Retreat of the old Romans, 137. 
 
 St. Bartholomew, his famous Statue in the great Church 
 in Milan, 8. 
 
 Bern , its publick Walks, 273. and Arfenal, 274. 
 
 Bolonia, for what famous, 248. its Rarities, ibid. 
 
 Brefcia, why more favour'd by the Venetians than any other 
 P art of their Dominions ,41 .famous for its Iron Works, 42. 
 
 C. Calvin, 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 c. 
 
 Calvin, bis Advice to the Genevois before his Death, 288. 
 
 Caprea, defer ib'd, 148, &c. its fruitful Soil, ibid, fome Ac- 
 count of the Medals found in it, 1^5. 
 
 Callis, a French Port, its pleafant Neighbourhood, 13. 
 
 Cennis, a Mountain between Turin and Geneva, 255. 
 
 St. Charles Borromeo his fubterraneous Chapel in Milan, 
 29. an Account of that Saint, ibid, compar'd with the 
 ordinary Saints in the Roman Church , ibid. 
 
 Cimmerians, where placed by Homer, 165. 
 
 Civita Vecchia, its unwholfom Air, 229. 
 
 Clitumnus, the Quality of its Waters , 96. 
 
 Colonna Infame, a Pillar at Milan, 34. theOccafon of it, ib 4 
 
 Confejfonals, Inf cript ions over them , 31, 32. 
 
 E. 
 
 Englilh courted by the prefent Pope to fettle at Civita 
 Vecchia, 229. 
 
 Efcargatoire, the ufe of it, 272. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fa no, from whence fo call' d, 90. 
 
 Felix the Fifth, his Story, 261, 262. 
 
 Ferrara, thinly inhabited, 7;. the Town deferib' d, ibid. 
 
 Florence, 235. an Account of its publick Buildings, lb. its fa- 
 mous Gallery, 236. and Rarities contain'd in it, ib. &c, 
 and in fame Chambers adjoining to it, 240, &c. famous 
 for modern Statues, 245. the great Duke's Care to pre- 
 vent Civita Vecchia_/w« being made a free Port, 228. in- 
 cens'd againfl the Lucquefe, 23 1 .for what Reafon, 232. 
 
 Fortune. Two Fortunes worjhipp'd by the Heathens at - 
 Antium, 169. 
 
 Fountains in Switzerland, a Reafon given for their Perio- 
 dical Fluxes, 263. 
 
 Fribourg deferib'd, 271. with an Hermitage near it, 272. 
 
 G. 
 
 St Gaul, Abbot of the Extent of his Territories, 279. man- 
 ner of his 'tileSiion, ib. the Riches of the Inhabitants. 280. 
 their fuarr el voith the Abbot, 281. the Abby 5 282. their 
 Arms , 283. 
 
 St . Gaulj , 
 
St?. Gaul, the great Apojile cf Germany, feme Account 
 of him, 284. 
 
 Geneva, its Situation , 258. under the Emperor s Difplea- 
 fure, and for <vohat Reafon, 269. efetm'd the Court of 
 the Alps, 228 . 
 
 Genoeie, their Manners defcrib'd, 17. their Character 
 from the modern Italians, and Latin Poets, 17, 18. an 
 Infance of their Indifcretion, 21. why oblig'd to he at 
 prefent in the French Interef, 22. their Fleet , and its 
 Service, ibid, their Doge claims a Crown and Sceptre 
 frosn their Conqueft of Corfica, ibid, an Advantage a- 
 rifing to 'em from it, and a different Maxim obferved 
 by the ancient Romans, 22, 23. 
 
 Genoa, its Defcription, 1 8, &c. its Banks no Burden to 
 the Genoeie, 21. why uncapable of being made a free 
 Port, 230. 
 
 St. George his Church at Verona, 43. 
 
 Granaries, the Adminiftration of 'em in Switzerland, 389 . 
 
 Grotto del Cani , fame Experiments made in it, 138, 139* 
 Reafons offer'd for the Effects of its Vapours, 139, 140* 
 
 Grotto Ofcuro, 154. 
 
 Gulf of Genoa, its Nature, 15. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hall, its Salt Work, 30 1 . the Method of preparing 'em, ib. 
 Its Mint, 302. 
 
 Henry the Eighth of England, his Letters to Anne of 
 Bulloyn, 211. 
 
 Hercules Monajcus, 16. 
 
 Hoiner, his Apotheofis, 109. 
 
 " r. 
 
 Jefuits their particular Compliment to the Queen of the Ro- 
 mans in a Comedy deftgn'd for her Entertainment , 298. 
 
 Infpruck, its publick Building <, 297. 
 
 Jfchia, by the Ancients call'd Inarjme, 161. fame Account ■ 
 of it, ibid. 
 
 Italians, the ufual Furniture of their Libraries, 3*. com- 
 par'd to the French. 37. the difference of Manners in the 
 two Nations, ibid, the great Aver fan to the French oh- 
 
 ftrv'd ' 
 
index. 
 
 ferijd in the common P ecph, 38. fime Reafim for It, 30, 
 fheir extravagant Tombfiones , 45 . the Difference betwixt 
 their Poetical and Pro/e Language , 66/ a great Help to 
 their modern Poetry , ibid, their Comedies low and ob- 
 f cen *> 67. a Reafonfor it, ibid, the chief Parts in all 
 their Comedies . ibid, a great Cufom among 'em of 
 crowning the Holy Virgin, 79. 
 
 Italy divided^ into many Principalities , as more natural to 
 its Situation, 36. its prefent Deflation) in. compar'd 
 to its ancient Inhabitants, ibid. 
 
 Juno Sifpita, or Sofpita, bow reprefenttd, 24.0. Tally-’/ 
 Dejcription of this Goddefs, ibid. 
 
 St. Judina, her Church one of the fnef in Italy, 54. 
 
 L. 
 
 Lago di Como, formerly Larius, 41. defcrib'd by Clai> 
 dian, 43. 
 
 Lago cii Garda, or Benacus defcrib'd by Virgil, 42, 
 
 Lapis Vituperii what, and to what ufe apply' d, 54, 
 
 Laufanne, 226. a peculiar P rivilege belonging to one Street 
 in this Town, 266, 267. 
 
 Lawyers, their great Numbers, and continual Employment 
 among the Neapolitans, 125. 
 
 Leghorn, 226. afree Port, ibid, the great Refort of other 
 Nations to it. 227. the Advantage the Great Duke re- 
 ceives from it, ibid. &c. 
 
 Lemanus, the Lake defcrib'd , 260, &c. with the Towns' 
 upon it, ibid. 
 
 Lindaw, 295. 
 
 Liris, or the Garigliano defcrib'd, 1 1 6. 
 
 Loretto, its prodigious Riches, 93. why never attack' d by . 
 the Turks, ibid, or the Chriftian Princes, ibid, a De- 
 fcription of the Holy Houfe, 94. 
 
 Lucan, his Prcphejy of the Latian Towns, 220. 
 
 Lucca, the Indufry of its Inhabitants, 23 1 . under the King 
 o/'Spain s Protection, 232. in danger of ruin, ibid, the 
 great Contempt the Inhabitants have of the Florentines, 
 23 3 . why never attempted as yet by the Great Duke , ib. 
 the Form of its Government, 234. 
 
 Ludlow, Edmund, his Epitaph , 266. St. 
 
index. 
 
 M. 
 
 St. Marino, its Situation, 84. the Extent of its Dominions, 
 85. the Founder, and Original of this little Republick , ib. 
 the Antiquity of it, 86. the Form of the Government , 
 87, Sec. 
 
 Mary Magdalene, the Defarts render'd famous hy her 
 Penance , 13. deferib'd by Claudian. 14. 
 
 Maximilian thefirft Founder of the Auftrian Greatnefs, 2 on. 
 
 Meld ingen, a little Republick in Switzerland, 277. the 
 Model of its Government, ibid, and Bujinefs of the 
 Councils of State, 278. 
 
 Milan its great Church, 27, &c. the Relicks and great 
 Riches contain'd in it, 30. the Citadel, 33. the Situ- 
 ation of its State, 36. an Affedation of the French Drefs 
 and Carriage in the Court, 37. Milan deferib'd bv Au- 
 lomus, 40. 
 
 Mincio, deferib'd by Virgil, 42. and Claudian, 4.3. 
 
 Mifeno, its Cape deferib'd, 160. its Set of Galleries, i6r 
 
 Modena, the Extent of its Dominions, and Condition of 
 the Inhabitants, 250. J 
 
 Monaco, its Harbour deferib'd by Lucan, 16. its Do- 
 minions, ibid. 
 
 Monte Circeio, why fuppos' d by Homer to have been an\ 
 dfland, 166 /jineas his Paffage near it deferib'd bv 
 Virgil, ibid. J 
 
 Monte Npvo, hovo fornid, 141. 
 
 Morge, its Artificial Port, 267. 
 
 Morpheus, why reprefented under the Figure of a Bov 228 
 239. in what manner addrefs'd to by Statius, 220. * 
 
 N. 
 
 Naples, 118 . its many Superftitions , 120. its delightful 
 ff’I* 3 - deferib'd by S1I1U3 Italicus, 146. its pLfant 
 Situation, 1 24. the litigious Temper of the Inhabitants 
 
 125. different from what it was in Statius his Time * 
 
 126. the great Alteration of the adjacent Parts from 
 
 7 bout ™l re f armerl y> I 3 2 - the natural Curiofties 
 Narni, why fo call'd, 102, 
 
 Neapolitan 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Neapolitans add i Sled to Eafe and Pleafure , 127. the 
 Reajon, 128. 
 
 Nemi, why fo call'd, 217. 
 
 N ettuno, for what remarkable , 168. 
 
 O. 
 
 Ocriculuro, its Ruins, 103. 
 
 Oitia, defcrib'd by Juvenal, 172. 
 
 Padua, its Univerfity, 54. the Original of Padua from 
 Virgil, 55. 
 
 Parker, an Englifli Ecclef a/lick, bis Epitaph on his Tomb 
 in Pavia, 26. 
 
 Parma, its famous Theatre, 249. the Extent of its Da- 
 minions , 250. and Condition of the Inhabitants, ibid. 
 
 Pavia, its Defcription, 24, &c. why call'd Ticinum by 
 the Ancients , 26. 
 
 Paufilypo’r Grotta, 1 3 1 . the beautiful Profpeft of its 
 Mount, 139. 
 
 St. Peter’r Church at Rome defcrib'd, i©8. the Reafon ef 
 its double Dome, 109 its beautiful ArchiteSlure , 1 10. 
 
 Pietifs a new Sett in Switzerland, 293. 
 
 Pifatello, fee Rubicon. 
 
 Pifauro, Doge of Venice, his Elogium, 60. 
 
 Po defcrib'd by Lucan, 72. Scaliger s Critick upon it, 73. 
 defcrib'd by Claudian, 252. 
 
 Pope, his Territories very defolate, 1 T 1 . and the Inha- 
 bitants poor, I 13. Reafons for it, ibid. 
 
 Puteoli. its Remains near Naples 132. its Mole miftaken 
 for Caligula’ s Bridge, 133. the Error confuted, ibid. 
 
 R. 
 
 Ravenna, 73. its ancient Situation according to Martial, 
 76. and Silius Italicus, ibid, the City and adjacent 
 Parts defcrib'd , ibid, Set. its great Scarcity of frejh 
 Water, lOJ- 
 
 St. Remo a Genoefe Town, defcrib'd, 15. 
 
 Rhone, fome Account of it, 268. 
 
 Rimini, its Antiquities , 80. 
 
 Rome, 
 
Rome, the Modern ftands higher than the Ancient, 175-, 
 the Grandeur of the Commonwealth, and Magnificence 
 of the Emperors differently confider'd, 176. its Rari- 
 ties, ibid. &c. and Confi derations upon them, ibid. 
 why more frequented by the Nobility in Summer than 
 in Winter, zzo. 
 
 Romulus, his Cottage defcrib'd by Virgil, 95. 
 
 Rubicon, call'd at prefent Pilatcllo, defcrib'd by Lucan, 
 79, 80. 
 
 S. 
 
 Sannazarius, his Verfes upon Venice, 70. 
 
 Sienna, 224. its Cathedral, ibid. 
 
 Snow monopolist' d at Naples, 147. 
 
 Soleurre, the Refidence of the French Ambajfadors, 276. 
 
 Soracte, call'd by the modern Italians St. Orefte, 103. 
 
 Spaniards, their Policy obj eras' d in the Government of 
 Naples, 124, 126, 127. 
 
 Spoletto, its Antiquities , 95. 
 
 Suffolk, Duke of, bur id in Pavia, 25. the Infcription on 
 his Tomb, ibid, his Hifiory, ibid. 
 
 Switzerland, its wonderful Tranquillity, 284. the Rea - 
 fon for it, ibid, the Thrift of its Inhabitants, 286. 
 the Reafon for it. ibid, their Drcfs, 287. their Cufom 
 in bequeathing their Efates, 2.90. their Motion of 
 Witchcraft, 291. 
 
 T. 
 
 Terni, why call'd formerly Interamna, 97. 
 
 Theatines, their Convent in Ravenna, 78. 
 
 Tiber, an Account of it from Virgil, 17 1. its great 
 Riches, 195. 
 
 Ticinus, or Fefin, a River near Pavia, 26. defcrib'd 
 by Silius Icalicus, 27. and Claudian, 43. 
 
 Timavus defcrib'd by Claudian, 43. 
 
 Tirol, the particular Privileges of its Inhabitants, 304. 
 
 Turin, a Convenience particular to it, 254. the Aver * 
 fon of the common People to the French, ibid. 
 
 V. 
 
 Velini Rofea Rura, why call' d fo by Virgil, 99. the Caf 
 cade formd by the Pall of that River, ibid. 
 
 Venetians, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Venetians, their Thirf after too many Conquefs on the j 
 Terra Firma prejudicial to the Commonwealth, 61. I 
 
 • wherein, ibid . the Republick in a dt clining Condition . ib. 
 on what Terms with the Emperor, 62 the Pope and | 
 Duke e/'Savoy, ibid, their Senate the wifef Council in 
 the World, ibid, the refnd Parts of their Wijdom, ib. j 
 their great Secrecy in Matters of State, 63. an Inf ance \ 
 of it, ibid, the Number of their Nobility, 64.. their Ope- j 
 ras, 65. a Cufiom peculiar to the Venetians, 69. a Show 
 particular to them exhibited on Hoiy-Thurfday, ibid, j 
 defcrib' d by Claudian, 70. 
 
 Venice, its advantageous Situation, 56. convenient for 
 Commerce, 58. its Trade declining, ibid, the Reafon of 
 it, ibid, its Defcription, 58, 59 remarkable for its 
 Pidures from the befi Hands, 59, tbeMoifureofits 
 Air, 60. its Arfenal, ibid, its Carnival , 64. the Ne- 
 cefjity and Confequences of it, ibid. &c. 
 
 Venus, her Chambers, 136. 
 
 Verona, its Amphitheatre, 43. its Antiquities, 44. 
 
 Vefuvio defcrib d, 141, &c. much different from Martial’* 
 Account of it, 151. 
 
 Virgil’s Tomb, 130. 
 
 Ulyffes, his Voyage un deter min d by the Learned , 14. 
 
 Volturno defcrib' d, 116. 
 
 Z. 
 
 Zurich, an Account of it, 278. 
 
■