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PREFACE. 
 
 While the beauties of the British Islands were never so 
 well or so numerously depicted as in the present day, it must 
 be matter of surprise that no Work devoted to " The Gar- 
 den of England," (as the Isle of Wight is so properly deno- 
 minated) has ever been published, on the plan of combining 
 Illustrations worthy of the subject, with a concise Historical 
 and Descriptive Guide, and supplying both these desiderata at 
 a price sufficiently moderate to meet the circumstances of all 
 who are desirous of visiting this delightful place of resort. 
 
 Few places of equal extent possess greater variety and 
 beauty of scenery than this far-famed Island ; comprehending, 
 as it does, within the space of a few miles, sublime coast 
 views, terrific chasms formed by convulsions of Nature, richly 
 cultivated plains, and romantic wooded seclusions. As the old 
 rhymist, Michael Drayton (in his Poly-Olbion,) picturesquely 
 sings, 
 
 'VOf all the southern isles she holds the highest place. 
 And evermore hath been the great'st in Britaine's grace 
 
 Nor is his remark less literally than poetically true, that 
 
 " the gentle South f witn kisses smooth and soft, 
 
 Doth in her bosom breathe, and seems to court her oft 
 
 a recommendation, which every valetudinarian can so well 
 appreciate. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The Wight, too, is not without objects of interest for the 
 historian and antiquary : and it is hoped that while a due at- 
 tention has been paid to those objects in the following work, 
 they have been also treated with more attention to correct 
 antiquarian principles, than have been applied to them in any 
 previous description, or guide-book. 
 
 Of the merit of the Engravings, every purchaser of the 
 volume will form his own estimate. The proprietor will not 
 permit his judgment of them to be influenced by the com- 
 pliments that have been paid him on their account : yet he 
 thinks it must be allowed by all, that their style transcends that 
 of any previously published views of the Island. In his selec- 
 tion of the places and objects which they illustrate, it has been 
 his chief aim to include those most generally known and visited, 
 and in consequence most interesting to the public at large. 
 
 As a Guide to the Traveller and Tourist, it is hoped that 
 the Work will be found in most respects complete. Still it 
 must be apparent, that the limits of the volume would pre- 
 clude the possibility of mentioning every thing : and it may 
 be as well to remark, that the fares of the different convey- 
 ances, and such-like information, are in general designedly 
 omitted, for the reason that these matters vary with every 
 successive season, and often more than once during a single 
 season. Correctness in this point being therefore unattainable, 
 it was thought better to be silent, than to incur the probabi- 
 lity of misleading the reader. 
 
 11, Park Place^ Islington, 
 
fjirturrociur tiluotiattoiio 
 
 OF 
 
 THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BRIEF GENERAL VIEW OF THE ISLAND. 
 
 1. Situation, Extent, Soil, and Climate.— 2. History. — 3. Natural ana 
 Artificial Divisions.— 4. Population, and Representation in Parliament. 
 
 1. SITUATION, EXTENT, SOIL, AND CLIMATE. 
 
 The Isle of Wight is situated in the English Channel, at a 
 short distance from the main-land of Hampshire, of which 
 county it has been commonly reckoned a part. The channel 
 which divides it from the grand line of our southern coast, 
 varies in width from two to six miles, and bears the appellation 
 of the Solent Sea. The form of the island is irregular, but 
 bears a rude resemblance to that of the heraldic lozenge. 
 In circumference, this far-famed and delightful 
 
 "Gem, set in the silver sea," 
 
 may be about seventy-five miles; less, certainly, rather than 
 more. Its extreme length, from east to west, (or from the 
 Foreland to the Needles,) is about twenty-three miles; its 
 greatest breadth, from north to south, (or from the town oi 
 1 
 
2 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 Cowes to St. Catherine's Point,) rather exceeds thirteen miles. 
 Its superficial contents are estimated at 105,000 acres: of 
 which 75,000 may be reckoned as under tillage, 20,000 as 
 devoted to pasture, and the remainder as waste land. 
 
 The soil, if treated with reference to the geology of the 
 *sland, would be found to open a field of investigation not a 
 little curious to the scientific inquirer; but such researches are 
 too generally uninteresting to be admitted in this place. The 
 reader, attached to such pursuits, will find all the information 
 he requires in Beche's "Manual of Geology," and in the Geo- 
 logical Society's Transactions. Here, it will be sufficient to 
 notice, that the Isle of Wight presents both numerous and 
 peculiar advantages for the study of its geological conforma- 
 tion. At, and near the surface, a strong productive loam is 
 commonly prevalent, except in the more northern parts, where 
 a cold stiff clay abounds beyond the wishes of the agricul- 
 turist. The crops consist of the various sorts of grain mostly 
 grown on the main-land ; to which may be added, potatoes, 
 turnips, beans, peas, mangel-wurzel, &c. Flour is exported to 
 a considerable extent annually; and the meadows produce, 
 upon an average, two tons of hay per acre. The manures are 
 sea-weed, marl, and especially lime ; the latter being readily 
 obtained from a chain of calcareous hills which traverse the 
 centre of the island from east to west, and afford pasturage 
 besides for numerous flocks of sheep, which are in repute both 
 for the fineness of their wool, and the lambs which they fur- 
 nish in great numbers for the London market. Formerly, 
 timber is said to have been so plentiful, that a squirrel might 
 travel for leagues by leaping from the branches : the vicinity 
 of Portsmouth dock-yard will sufficiently account for the fact, 
 that the isle is now comparatively shorn of its forest honours; 
 though a great variety of most beautiful foliage still adorns 
 the scenery, and the stately elm, in particular, luxuriates in 
 the common hedge-rows. The utmost diversity of elevation 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 pervades the surface ; a circumstance that, added to its sylvan 
 richness, and the beauty of the verdure, greatly tends to pro- 
 duce those attractions that all so greatly admire. Besides 
 which, the two sides of the island present each a peculiar cha- 
 racter, as distinct, and as strongly opposed, as their aspects. 
 The northern side is marked by all that is rich, lovely, ana 
 picturesque: the southern, commonly called the back of the 
 island, abounds in bold wild rocks, precipitous projections, ra- 
 vines, fearful chasms, and other features of the imposing, and 
 even of the sublime. In parts, it is true, these opposite cha- 
 racters are greatly mingled; a circumstance that only adds to 
 the effect produced upon the observer, and, together with the 
 constant alternation of marine and land views, contributes 
 still more powerfully to distinguish the Isle of Wight as the 
 " Garden of England." 
 
 The climate is well known to be as pure, mild, and salu- 
 brious, as the face of the country is beautiful. Its softness 
 and warmth, as compared with that of England in general, are 
 proved by the luxuriant growth, in the open air, of the myrtle, 
 geranium, and other trees and shrubs, which commonly flou- 
 rish, so exposed, only in more southern latitudes. Evergreens 
 of great size and beauty, over which the winters pass without 
 appearing to affect their foliage or vigour, also constitute a 
 prominent feature of the island. In every point of view, the 
 Isle of Wight may be recommended as a fit place of residence, 
 during the whole year, to invalids. For, the variety which it 
 presents in elevation, aspect, and local circumstances, renders 
 the temperature of the air, and the comparative dryness and 
 humidity, as various : and while no portion of its surface can 
 be considered injurious in these particulars, there is that dif- 
 ference of atmospheric tone in different places, which makes 
 one spot as felicitously adapted to the winter, as some other 
 to the summer sojourner. To give the names of such places, 
 at present, would be inconsistent with the plan of our work, 
 
4 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 It will suffice to say, (what, indeed, will be generally sur- 
 mised,) that the northern division of the isle contains the 
 greater number of delightful summer retreats, and the southern 
 division the majority of exceedingly pleasant winter ones. 
 
 2. HISTORY. 
 
 In historical particulars, we shall be as brief as any degree 
 of justice to the subject will permit. Lengthened details, 
 especially in matters relating rather to the history of South 
 Britain in general, are as foreign to the character of the work 
 in hand, as they would be uncared for by most readers of an 
 illustrative guide to the lovely isle, whose amenities and beau- 
 ties, as they now exist, we are far more intent upon depicting. 
 
 The Isle of Wight is plausibly supposed by the learned, 
 though somewhat too fanciful Whittaker, (author of the "His- 
 tory of Manchester,") to have been the Insula Vectis of the 
 Romans; and he conjectures that appellation to have been 
 derived from Guith, or Guict, the name applied to it by the 
 British aborigines, and signifying the divorced or separated; 
 in allusion, no doubt, to an imagined disruption of the island, 
 at some unknown period, from the main-land of England. 
 The imperial conquerors left no marks, that we can now trace, 
 of their occupation here, if we except a few coins, which were 
 dug up, between sixty and seventy years since, near Caris- 
 brook Castle, a building that, tradition says, marks the site of 
 a Roman fortress. 
 
 The Saxons are related to have obtained possession of the 
 island, after a vigorous opposition of the inhabitants, which 
 exposed them to no common calamities, about A.D. 530. Its 
 new masters so frequently quarrelled among themselves, and 
 the dominant Saxon tribe was in consequence so often changed, 
 that the unhappy Wihtlanders, as they were now called, en- 
 toyed few intervals of repose from spoil and slaughter; until, 
 at length, their miseries were made complete by the remorse- 
 
THE ISLK OF WIGHT. 
 
 5 
 
 less Danes, whose attacks, characterised by conflagration and 
 unpitying bloodshed, extended from the year 787 to the Nor- 
 man Conquest. The Conqueror gave the island to his kins- 
 man, William Fitz- Osborne, one of his most powerful fol- 
 lowers, in return for his having subjugated it, and created 
 him lord of the Isle of Wight. The lordship was then held 
 by a succession of Norman barons, during whose supremacy 
 the French became troublesome by their predatory incursions. 
 Many of these were successfully resisted ; but still, from the 
 thirteenth to the seventeenth century, the wars with France 
 gave occasion to such frequent visits of the enemy, that a 
 constant sense of insecurity possessed the inhabitants; and 
 numerous landholders, in the reign of Edward III., left their 
 estates, until that monarch's threat of confiscation compelled 
 them to return. The most remarkable historic fact, connected 
 with the Norman period, perhaps is, that King John chose the 
 isle for his place of retirement after the signature of Magna 
 Charta, and while brooding over schemes of vengeance for the 
 compliances extorted from him : a line of conduct, that, from 
 its singularity, attracted much observation, and the derision of 
 some, who affected to believe that he had turned merchant, 
 or fisherman, or, as was more obscurely hinted, pirate. The 
 lordship was alienated to the crown, for the inconsiderable 
 sum of 6000 marks, in the reign of Edward I. ; and though 
 the validity of the alienation was disputed in Parliament, on 
 the ground of undue influence having been exercised, the point 
 was ultimately decided in the king's favour. Henry VI. cre- 
 ated Beauchamp, earl of Warwick, king of the Isle of Wight, 
 crowning him with his own hands, in 1445; but the royal 
 title was not afterwards continued. The last lord was Richard 
 Widville, earl Rivers, who, incurring the enmity of the tyran- 
 nical Richard III., was beheaded by him, without so much as 
 a trial, in 1483. Sir Edward Widville, brother to the late 
 earl, became captain of the isle upon the accession of Henry 
 
G 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 VII. ; and his successors, many of whom were persons of emi- 
 nence, bore the same title for a considerable period. Henry 
 
 VIII. made the island the site of several of those castles which 
 he erected along his coasts, for their protection against foreign 
 attacks. At the commencement of the civil wars of the seven- 
 teeth century, Jerome, earl of Portland, was captain, but was 
 displaced, and the earl of Pembroke appointed governor for 
 the parliament in his stead. His successor was colonel Ham- 
 mond, the parliamentary officer under whose government 
 Charles I. was for some time a prisoner in Carisbrook Castle. 
 From that to the existing period, no event of importance has 
 distinguished the history of the isle from that of England at 
 large : the most remarkable facts in its annals being the suc- 
 cession of its governors, whose appointment by the crown has 
 continued to this day ; the present possessor of the office being 
 lord Malmesbury, who succeeded to it in 1811. 
 
 The ecclesiastical history of the island presents no subject 
 for remark. It is a part of the see of Winchester. 
 
 3. NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL DIVISIONS. 
 
 The natural division of the Isle of Wight into north and 
 south, by a nearly centrical chain of hills, or downs, has been 
 already alluded to. These downs stretch from Bembridge to 
 the Needles, or entirely across the island. But the division 
 most commonly referred to, is that created by the river Me- 
 dina, which, rising at the foot of St. Catherine's Down, and 
 falling into the Solent at Cowes, parts the isle into hundreds, 
 of pretty equal size, which are called respectively the East and 
 West Medine. There are two other rivers, each of small size : 
 namely, the Yar, which rises near Freshwater Gate, and falls 
 into the sea at Yarmouth; and the Wootton river, taking 
 name from the village of Wootton, to which, for small vessels, 
 it is navigable. The hundreds are subdivided into thirty 
 parishes, of which the East Medine contains fourteen, and the 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGIIT. 
 
 7 
 
 West Medine sixteen. Their names are as follow:— East 
 Medine: Brading, St. Helen's, Yaverland, Shanklin, Bon- 
 church, Nezochurch, St. Lawrence, Whitwell, Niton, Gods- 
 hill, Arreton, Binsted, Wootton, and Whippingham. West 
 Medine: Northwood, Newport, St. Nicholas, Carisbrook, 
 Gatcombe, Kingston, Chale, Shorwell, Brixton, Mottiston, 
 Calbourne, Shalfieet, Brook, Thorley, Yarmouth, and 
 Freshwater. 
 
 4. POPULATION, AND REPRESENTATION IN PARLIAMENT. 
 
 The population of the Isle of Wight, as it appeared in the 
 census of 1831, amounted to 35,363 persons; of whom 17,184 
 were males, and 18,179 females. The increase, since 1821, 
 was 3752 persons. The number of houses was 5797. 
 
 Until the passing of the Reform Act, the isle returned six 
 members to the Imperial Parliament, viz. Newport, two; Yar- 
 mouth, two; and Newtown, two. But, for the purposes of 
 that Act, the Isle of Wight is now a county of itself, and re- 
 turns one member; while, of the towns, Newport only conti- 
 nues to return two. Members returned to the first Reformed 
 Parliament: for the county, Sir Richard M. Simeon, of St. 
 John's, bart. ; for Newport, J. Hey wood Hawkins, and W. H. 
 Orde, esqs. 
 
8 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 RYDE. AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 Ryde is most commonly the point of debarkation for visi- 
 tors to the Isle of Wight ; although Cowes, which is a more 
 considerable town, as well as the port of the island, is also 
 very frequently selected. Supposing Ryde to be adopted in 
 the present instance, we commence our illustrative tour with 
 its description, presuming the steam-boat passage of three 
 quarters of an hour, (at the utmost), from Portsmouth, to have 
 been accomplished. The passage itself is generally a very 
 agreeable little trip, and presents a fine view of. the town, 
 rising up the side of a commanding hill, as we approach. The 
 distance across does not exceed six miles. Steam-packets 
 between Ryde and Portsmouth were first established in the 
 spring of 1825, the necessary capital being subscribed in 
 shares of £25 each. Here, as in other places, they have done 
 much towards systematizing travelling; conveyance by these 
 vessels being as regular as that by stage-coaches, and the 
 motions of each kind of vehicle being timed by those of the 
 other. Thus, the traveller by the coach from London is as 
 sured of no delay on his arrival at Portsmouth; but, on the 
 contrary, that the steam-boat will be found ready to transport 
 him to the island. Persons using their own carriages may 
 even enter them in the metropolis, and first step from them in 
 the town of Ryde; for the packets convey both horses and 
 carriages across by means of tow-boats, and the embarkation 
 and landing of such travelling accompaniments is equally easy. 
 
 In particularising the objects that present themselves as we 
 approach, we must first notice the pier, which extends 1740 
 
THE IS1.E OF WIGHT. 
 
 feet into the sea, and, as is obvious at once, affords a charming 
 marine parade and observatory . The villas of the duke of 
 Buckingham and earl Spencer are seen near the shore ; while, 
 more elevated, appear the line of very handsome houses called 
 Brigstocke Terrace, with the spire of St. Thomas's chapel, the 
 market-house and town-hall, and the chapel of St. James's. 
 The houses, being generally stuccoed, and of every variety of 
 form and elevation, combine with the foliage of trees and the 
 numerous gardens, to give a picturesque appearance to the 
 scene, which immediately strikes and gratifies every beholder. 
 
 From a very inconsiderable village, Ryde has become, within 
 the last sixty or seventy years, a town oi importance, boasting 
 its market, and containing a population (according to the 
 census of 1831) of 3396 persons. It possesses no features to 
 interest the antiquarian ; but this deficiency is more than com- 
 pensated, in the eyes of the general visitor, by the neatness, 
 taste, and, in many instances, the beauty of its modern build- 
 ings. The streets are wide, and tolerably regular. They are 
 well paved, and cleansed, under the superintendance of com- 
 missioners appointed by an Act of Parliament obtained in 
 1829: but the lighting of the town has not yet been carried 
 into effect, although that improvement is also to be expected, 
 the commissioners being invested with all necessary powers 
 for the purpose. Shops of every description, adapted to the 
 supply of the numerous visitants, as well as to the accommo- 
 dation of the townspeople at all times, are sufficiently nume- 
 rous. The retail trade of the place is rather considerable : and 
 the exports, consisting cf corn, lambs, sheep, calves, &c. still 
 more important. Many of the East and West India ships, 
 and others, call here to supply themselves with stock for their 
 respective voyages. Boat and yacht building is also estab- 
 lished, at a yard from which some vessels of more consequence 
 have been launched. 
 
 The grand modern improvement of Ryde is the noble and 
 2. 
 
to 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 beautiful pile of buildings called Brigstocke Terrace, the 
 aspect of which is as commanding, and the architecture as 
 elegant, as the view from the houses is extensive and lovely. 
 That view embraces the Solent, the Hampshire coast, the 
 shipping in their infinite variety, &c. There are also nume- 
 rous detached houses of very handsome exterior : but the lead- 
 ing feature of the town, perhaps, is its cottages, which rise 
 around us in every style, classic, rustic, Gothic, Swiss, and 
 nondescript. The pleasing appearance of these, as well as of 
 the place in general, is much contributed to by the number 
 and beauty of the shrubs and evergreens, especially the latter, 
 which in this island are the ornament of almost every rustic 
 garden. The mansions that adorn the outskirts of the place, 
 are of course the most abundantly supplied with these verdant 
 decorations. 
 
 Our view of Ryde from the water, places the Pier before 
 the eye very prominently. Its length, and facilities for seeing 
 and being seen, have been already noticed. The fashionable 
 promenader, of either sex, will appreciate its excellences in 
 one of these respects without our asistance : let us then simply 
 detail the objects to be viewed from this elevated and com- 
 manding position. Not to dwell on the surrounding beauties 
 of the Solent Sea, with the vessels of all descriptions moving 
 in every direction, we will first notice the long line of coast, 
 belonging to the main-land, which bounds the prospect to the 
 north. Here, directly in front, appear Stoke's Bay, and the 
 terrace at Anglesea; while, to the left, are seen Southampton 
 Water, with Calshot Castle at its entrance, and the more dis- 
 tant buildings of that town itself. To the right we see Haslar 
 Hospital, with Portsmouth, its dock-yard, the wood of masts 
 which commonly rises from its harbour, and the noble vessels 
 riding at Spithead. The vision then roams to Southsea Castle, 
 and Hayling Island ; and, beyond the latter, to the grey out- 
 line of Chichester Cathedral; until, yet more to the right, the 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 II 
 
 view is terminated by Selsey Bill, the British Channel, and 
 the meeting line of the horizon. The eye returning from this 
 point along the island shore, encounters first the woody 
 demesne of Priory ; then Sea View ; the castle of St. Clare ; the 
 woods of Appley and St. John's; the eminence on which Ryde 
 is built, with the general view of the town before spoken of; 
 and, inclining to the right, a mill on the summit, and the seats 
 of the duke of Buckingham and earl Spencer in the fore- 
 ground. The mansion of George Player, esq.; the Mother 
 Bank, with its vessels at anchor ; Binstead ; Norris Castle ; the 
 ships in the road before Cowes, and the sea and horizon again 
 beyond, complete the circle of our view. 
 
 The structure from which this delightful prospect is con- 
 templated, was erected pursuant to Act of Parliament, at an 
 expense exceeding £12,000, which was obtained by creating 
 shares of £50 each. The first stone was laid June 29, 1813, 
 and the building was completed in the following year. It runs 
 due north from the town, and has an entrance arch and lodge, 
 of neat construction, at which two pence are paid by every 
 passenger. After a short distance, the width is contracted, on 
 account of the expense that would have been incurred by com- 
 pleting it according to the original plan : but it is furnished 
 with an iron railing during its entire length, and with seats, 
 secured from the passing shower, for the accommodation of 
 pedestrians. Upon this pier a landing can be effected at all 
 times of the tide, as it extends from the quay to low-watei 
 mark, and is furnished in all with eight flights of steps, two of 
 which are at the extremity, and six placed at proper intervals. 
 Persons may subscribe for admittance, if they think proper, at 
 Is. 6d. per week; families, 6s. Or a subscription may be 
 entered into for a week, month, or year. 
 
 The chief public buildings of Ryde are the Market-house 
 and Town-hall, St. Thomas's and St. James's Chapels, and the 
 Theatre. We shall notice these in the order they have been 
 here mentioned. 
 
12 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 The Market-house and Town-hall. This building presents 
 a handsome elevation on the north side of Lind Street. Its 
 frontage, including the long wings which enclose that side of 
 the market, extends 198 feet; the depth is 58 feet. The 
 centre projects so as to form a vestibule, opened by arches at 
 each end, and by four Doric columns in the middle. Over 
 this vestibule rises a pediment, upon the like number of Ionic 
 columns, between which are seen the windows of the large 
 upper apartment used as the town-hall. The wings are ap- 
 propriate in their style, but have no peculiar architectural 
 decoration. The basement is to be the corn-market; and the 
 area is divided between the dealers in butchers' meat, fish, 
 poultry, vegetables, &c, all of which are excellent in quality, 
 and abundantly supplied. The cattle-market is held in front 
 of the building : market days, Tuesday and Friday. 
 
 The upper portion of the edifice, or the town-hall, consists 
 of a handsome room, 44 feet in length, and 26 in breadth; 
 with another apartment, of smaller dimensions, in which are 
 held the meetings of the commissioners appointed by the Act 
 passed in 1829. When both these rooms are thrown into one, 
 which is accomplished by means of sliding doors, a very 
 noble apartment, occasionally used as a ball-room, is the re- 
 sult. The Act just spoken of provided for the erection of this 
 market-house as one of its principal objects. It was com- 
 pleted in June, 1831. 
 
 Ryde not being a parish of itself, but forming part of that 
 of Newchurch, whose parochial edifice is seven miles dis- 
 tant, the two sacred structures in the town, belonging to the 
 establishment, must be considered as chapels of ease to the 
 mother church. Of these, St. Thomas's Chapel is the prin- 
 cipal, as it was the first erected. 
 
 The manor of Ryde was part of the possessions of the family 
 of Dillington, till sir John Dillington sold it to Henry Player, 
 esq. whose son Thomas built the first chapel here, in the year 
 1719, and charged the manor with an annual rent of £10, 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 payable to the vicar of Newchurch, vO officiate therein, or to 
 provide some one to officiate for him. This chapel was of a 
 very humble character, and so small as to become totally ina- 
 dequate to the accommodation of the inhabitants, and the 
 numerous visitors of the place, several years since. For that 
 reason, George Player, esq., now resident at Ryde House, 
 erected the present handsome structure, upon the site of the 
 former chapel, in the year 1827: under which circumstances, 
 while the endowment continues to take effect, the pew-rents 
 are the property of Mr. Player. 
 
 The style of this edifice is the modern Gothic, of which it 
 forms a picturesque, and very favourable specimen. It is built 
 chiefly of the stone obtained from the quarries at Brinstead, 
 near the town, and which forms the common building mate- 
 rial of this part of the island, It has coigns of white brick : 
 while the window and door-cases, with some cornices and 
 copings, are of a composition to imitate Portland stone. Over the 
 principal entrance is a shield of the arms of the Player family. 
 This is at the west end, which is ornamented with a handsome 
 tower and spire; the latter elegantly shingled, of light and 
 pleasing form, and sufficiently elevated to answer all the pur- 
 poses of a land-mark. The interior is simply elegant: the 
 pews, pulpit, and galleries, painted to resemble ancient oak. 
 Three large lancet windows at the east end, containing some 
 stained glass, have a good effect over the altar-piece, which 
 consists of the decalogue, &c. in old English characters upon 
 a gold ground. The galleries are supported by light cast-iron 
 pillars. A small tablet of the king's arms, in high relief, and 
 emblazoned, is set in front of that at the west end: and 
 against the wall, under the same gallery, is a marble tablet, in 
 a painted and gilt frame, with a pediment, containing this 
 inscription ; 
 
14 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OP 
 
 " Thomas Player Ariniger 
 
 Domus Dei, magis quam suae, 
 
 Elegantiae et nitoris studiosu? 
 Hoc sacellum, tarn advenis quam incolis, • 
 
 Diu multumq. desideratum 
 Condidit (Anno 1719) 
 ^mulationis opus non Invidiae." 
 
 Divine service is performed in this chapel, morning and 
 afternoon, every Sunday. 
 
 St. James's Chapel, though inferior in size, and less pure 
 in the style of its architecture, (which, as in the case of St. 
 Thomas's, is the Gothic) has a neat and not unpleasing air 
 throughout. The exterior is stuccoed. The principal entrance 
 is in the west front, beneath the clock, which is surmounted 
 by a neat cupola. Immediately over the door is an inscrip- 
 tion, in a sunk tablet, simply giving the name and date of the 
 erection. On either side the principal entrance is an octa- 
 gonal turret, and a wing, battlemented, pierced by a smaller 
 entrance. The interior is simple, and neat; in its general 
 style imitative of an ancient country church of the better order. 
 The pulpit, pews, &c. are painted in wainscot. Over the altar- 
 piece, which contains the decalogue, &c, is a window of 
 stained glass, with the letters I. H. S., and a descending dove, 
 in the central compartment. There is an organ in the gallery 
 at the opposite end. 
 
 The edifice thus described was built, in the year 1827, by 
 William Hughes Hughes, esq. M.P. and alderman of London, 
 who has a handsome residence contiguous. It is strictly a 
 proprietary chapel, under the licence of the bishop of the see. 
 The present proprietor and minister, the rev. Mr. Sibthorpe, 
 purchased it of the erector, and made considerable alterations. 
 It stands in Lind Street, close to the market-house. Service 
 is performed here every Sunday morning, and on Sunday and 
 Thursday evenings. The sittings are let at a regulated scale 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 15 
 
 of prices, of which the lowest is 4*. for two Sundays, and the 
 highest 24s . for one year. 
 
 The other places of worship in Ryde are an Independent 
 and a Wesley an-Methodist chapel. The former has a stuc- 
 coed front, of some architectural pretensions, together with 
 a neat interior, and an organ. The Methodist chapel, situated 
 in Spencer Road, is built for utility alone, and is perfectly 
 plain in every respect. 
 
 The Theatre stands commandingly at the top of Union 
 Street, and from its situation derives advantages as to appear- 
 ance, which its style of erection alone could not have con- 
 ferred. The front elevation is stuccoed, but has little other 
 decoration than the royal arms, in rude relief, over a cornice, 
 with niches and pedestals for statues over two of the entrances. 
 This building was at first intended for a market-house ; but, at 
 that period, a want of funds prevented the completion of the 
 original design. The interior is small, but, under the manage- 
 ment of Mr. Barnett, of the Reading circuit, has not been 
 found deficient in attractions for the admirers of the histrionic 
 art. It generally opens in July, and continues its performances 
 until the end of September. 
 
 The institutions for education in this town are the Free- 
 School, and the Sunday Schools attached to the chapels of St. 
 James, the Independents, and the Methodists. These latter 
 appear to be all well conducted, and to reflect equal credit 
 upon the congregations from whom they derive their support. 
 The Free- School, in Melville Street, erected by voluntary sub- 
 scription in the year 1812, is an institution of some import- 
 ance, as it educates about 350 children, of whom the propor- 
 tion of boys to girls is as two to one. The building is without 
 architectural decorations, but well planned, and convenient. 
 The boys' school-room constitutes the centre; the east wing 
 contains that for the instruction of the girls, and is also used 
 for the meetings of the committees: the west wing is the 
 
16 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 master's residence. The system of education is Dr. Bell's or 
 the National; though, originally, it was the Lancasterian. 
 Two sermons are preached annually for the benefit of this 
 charity, at St. Thomas's Chapel. 
 
 The accommodations for visitors may be arranged under 
 the heads of hotels and inns, boarding and lodging-houses, 
 baths, and conveyances. 
 
 Of the first mentioned, Yelps Hotel, in Union Street, and 
 the Pier Hotel, are the principal. There are also two com- 
 mercial houses, with good accommodations, named the Crown, 
 and the Star; the former in the High Street, the latter in the 
 higher part of the town called Upper Ryde. 
 
 Sheridan' 's Boarding-house, in Union Street, is an excellent 
 establishment of its kind, and extremely well conducted. 
 Though its front is to the most public street in the town, the 
 rear is private and rural, with pleasing grounds attached, and 
 commanding wide and delightful views of marine and coast 
 scenery. 
 
 Of Lodging-houses there is an ample variety; and the 
 generality of them are possessed of every accommodation, and 
 most pleasantly situated. 
 
 The Baths are near the Pier, and in Pier Street, and bear 
 respectively the names of Kemp's and Rayner's. They con- 
 tain all that is usual in such establishments, and are very com- 
 plete in their arrangements. Ryde surpasses manv places of 
 its kind in the facilities it presents for enjoying that luxury to 
 the healthful, and restorative to the sick, sea-bathing. The 
 sands are extensive, and not exposed, as in so many instances 
 to those alternations of favourable and unfavourable states of 
 the ocean, and the tide, which cause so much disappointment 
 at Brighton, Margate, and other places. The reason of this 
 will be readily understood to be, that the billows are here 
 comparatively circumscribed, and lulled, by the narrowness of 
 the strait which separates the island from the opposite shore. 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 13 
 
 Under the head of Conveyances may be mentioned, in the 
 first place, the Steam Packets, which ply daily between tlirs 
 place and Portsmouth, at stated hours, calling off the end of 
 the pier for passengers to Cowes and Southampton. During 
 the season there are also packets from Ryde to Brighton, and to 
 Havre-de- Grace; as well as for the trip (generally a very plea- 
 sant one) round the island. A coach is established between 
 Ryde and Newport. With regard to post-chaises, cars, 
 sociables, and gigs, for inland excursions, or to the back of 
 the island, such are at all times readily obtainable. Neither 
 should the accommodations for sailing excursions pass without 
 notice : they are excellent of their kind, and the pleasure they 
 offer may at most times be enjoyed, even by the delicate and 
 timid, as the Solent affords ample space for this species of 
 enjoyment, and its waters are seldom disturbed in a degree 
 calculated to inspire the slightest alarm. 
 
 Among the amusements of the place may be reckoned the 
 Assemblies, held weekly, during the season, at Hellyer's 
 Library and Reading-rooms, Union Street; the Regatta, 
 which usually takes place in the month of September ; and 
 the Fair, held July 6th in the High Street. 
 
 Our description of this town cannot conclude better than 
 with the observations of Dr. Shaw, addressed to the valetudi- 
 narian, in his work on the " Influence of Climates." — " Of all 
 the situations in the island, Ryde appears to me to deserve a 
 preference as a summer residence. *** It possesses most of 
 the advantages of a country residence, together with those of 
 a sea-bathing place. The neighbourhood is also very beauti- 
 ful, and favourable for exercise." 
 
 Walks. 
 1. From Ryde to Sea View. 
 None oan enjoy the beauties to be found in the vicinity of 
 Ryde, to equal advantage with the pedestrian. Our plan will 
 3. 
 
18 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 therefore embrace a few of the most pleasing Walks in the 
 first place : after which we shall arrange an Excursion or two 
 for the convenience of those, who, going to greater distances, 
 may prefer the accommodation of a carriage. 
 
 The walk to Sea View is extremely agreeable. On quit- 
 ting Ryde we cross The Dover, a tract of common land con- 
 taining nothing remarkable in itself, but memorable as the 
 burial-place of a number of the unfortunate sailors, who perished 
 in the Royal George on the 29th of August, 1782, and 
 whose bodies were here washed on shore. The graves of 
 these unhappy sufferers appeared for a long time as so many 
 little grassy hillocks ; but the action of the weather, and the 
 frequent foot of the passenger, has at length rendered them 
 undistinguishable from the general surface of the sterile sand. 
 Were this spot levelled and improved by public spirit, guided 
 by the hand of taste, its contiguity to the town would no 
 doubt render it a favourite spot for promenaders ; as, from its 
 situation, it commands a beautiful marine view. 
 
 The catastrophe of the Royal George has been too often 
 related, to render apology necessary for our avoiding its 
 minute details. We shall merely observe, that the deplorable 
 event by which one of the noblest ships, most complete crews, 
 and bravest of commanders, that ever graced the British navy, 
 were lost to their country ; — 
 
 " When Kempenfeldt went down, 
 With twice four hundred men;" — 
 
 happened at Spithead, at a nearly equal distance between 
 Ryde and Portsmouth ; and was occasioned, as is well known, 
 by want of due care in careening the majestic vessel. Having 
 been heeled too much on one side, with her gun-ports open, a 
 sudden squall threw her on her beam- ends, so that the flag at 
 her mast-head actually dipped into the sea ; then rolling in 
 tb.p ox\T>osite direction, her yard-arms met the surface of ths 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 19 
 
 waves : she righted ; but, lamentably, had by this time ship - 
 ped so much water, that it was only to sink almost immediately. 
 All who were between decks, the Admiral included, were 
 involved in one common fate; but the majority of those who 
 happened to be on the upper deck, were rescued by the boats 
 dispatched to their assistance from other vessels. A victualler, 
 which had been quietly lying alongside, shared in the calamity ; 
 being literally sucked to the bottom by the whirlpool occa- 
 sioned through the sudden descent of so vast a fabric as the 
 Royal George, at that time the leviathan of our navy. 
 
 Our path from the Dover is by a winding way through a 
 beautiful hanging wood, which skirts the grounds of Appley. 
 This mansion, the residence of Mrs. Bennett, graces the 
 ascent of a hill, rising gently from the more precipitous site 
 of the wood, and possesses all the beauties of a fine natural 
 situation improved by art. The views from this spot are 
 truly delightful ; and the exquisite richness of the surrounding 
 foliage renders the home-scene nearly equally enchanting. 
 
 Again reaching the shore, Puckpool Cliff appears on the 
 right, with Cliff Cottage, the rustic seat, and well-wooded 
 grounds, of Captain Wyatt. Wes fridge, the handsome modern 
 mansion of John Young, esq., is next seen in the same direc- 
 tion : after which we pass what was formerly a large Saltern, 
 but its buildings are now devoted to the habitation of various 
 humble families. Sea Field, Mrs. Beach's residence, in the 
 modern cottage style, next occurs ; and we then reach the 
 extremity of the walk we have chosen, namely, Sea View. 
 
 This village was formerly called Old Fort, and its site 
 retains some features which show the propriety of its first 
 designation. The houses are disposed in the form of an angle ; 
 of which the shortest side, or that nearest Ryde, looks direct 
 into Portsmouth harbour : the other, facing eastward, has a 
 fine view of the British channel, and the various objects 
 besides in that direction. It is a truly marine situation. 
 
20 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 The road, striking inland from this point, leaves on the left 
 Sea Grove, the residence of the Rev. T. Le Marchant. The 
 house occupies an elevated and most pleasing site, with a law n 
 steeply sloping from its front. It is also very charmingly 
 embowered in the trees, from which, together with its aspect, 
 it takes name. Fairy Hill, the abode of Mrs. Glynn, is at a 
 trifling distance. This is a regularly -built brick house, with 
 a situation very much agreeing in character with that last 
 described. Within sight is also the villa of J. Leacock, esq., 
 commandingly placed, and of Italianised exterior. Woodlands, 
 belonging to Charles Cooch, esq., merits its sylvan epithet by 
 the well-grown timber with which it is surrounded. 
 
 We have quite left the shore to gain the vicinity of these 
 objects, and are returning to the town by the carriage road. 
 Nothing further occurs until we pass St. Clare, the elegant 
 castellated mansion of Lord Vernon. The Tudor style of 
 Gothic predominates in this building, the whole of which is 
 in more than ordinary good taste. The grounds are laid out 
 in the most approved modern style. A view of no common 
 beauty, from the keep tower, completes the attractions of this 
 delightful seat. 
 
 St. John's, the property of Sir Richard Simeon, possesses 
 most of the advantages of St. Clare. It is at once embosomed 
 in wood, and so situated as to command a prospect of Ryde 
 and its pier, with extensive sea-views, the Hampshire coast, 
 &c. The domain is less trim in its style than Lord Vernon's, 
 but the noble trees with which it is adorned perhaps more 
 than compensate for that disadvantage. 
 
 Two pretty rustic lodges on the right, mark the private or 
 family entrance to St. John's. After passing these, the road 
 ascends till we reach the turnpike, near which appears the 
 mansion of Captain Ribouleau, n. n. Regaining Ryde by the 
 south end of Lower Player Street, a cottage of exceedingly 
 pleasing character, there situated, will deserve at least passing 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 21 
 
 attention. It is in what is very commonly called the Swiss 
 style, hut which might be more properly designated as a mix- 
 ture of the Swiss with the ornamented English rustic. 
 
 2. To the Mill at Aldermore. 
 
 An easy effort, the distance not exceeding a mile and a 
 half. The direction is south, through Upper Ryde ; and will 
 lead, after passing the turnpike, by Hay lands, the seat of 
 Admiral Locke. Upton House, the residence of James P. 
 Lind, esq., m. d., is also in the vicinity. The view from the 
 mill, on a favourable day, realises some of the most magnifi- 
 cent effects of a well-executed panorama. The principal 
 objects are, — north, the Solent, and the coast beyond; east, 
 Bembridge Down, with the fine sheet of water called Braden 
 Haven ; south, Nunwell and Ashey Downs, the latter dis- 
 tinguished by the peculiar rotundity of its swell, and by its 
 sea-mark ; west, inland scenery, possessing much of the rich- 
 ness that so generally characterises the island. 
 
 If the pedestrian varies his return by taking the road from 
 the mill which leads to Small-Brook Heath, he will find it 
 add to the gratification of his walk. 
 
 3. To Binstead and Quarr Abbey, 
 
 Spencer Road, leading westward, conducts to the objects of 
 our present route. Pass on the left the modern-built resi- 
 dence of W. H. Hughes, esq. : see to the right the villas of 
 the duke of Buckingham and earl Spencer. 
 
 Shortly, in the direction last mentioned, occurs Bucklands, 
 a mansion in the style of James the First's time, with some 
 
 features of the Gothic ; it belongs to Utterson, esq. 
 
 Also on the right, observe a neat Doric lodge, at the entrance 
 to Ryde House, the seat of George Player, esq. 
 
 The road is now quitted for a foot-path through the fields, 
 which undulates through most pleasing rural scenery. The 
 
22 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 residence of Captain Brigstocke, r. n., is seen on the left, at a 
 trifling distance. The foot-path ends in the church-yard of 
 Binstead ; and the Church, of course, affords the first subject 
 for remark. 
 
 This edifice possesses nothing to interest the antiquary or 
 general observer, if we except a rudely sculptured stone over 
 the door of the porch on the south side, which seems to have been 
 inserted in the wall at some rebuilding of that portion of the 
 structure. It is commonly called "The Idol," and is evidently 
 more antique than the work surrounding it. Some ingenuity 
 might be exercised in guessing its entire meaning ; but the 
 upper part is plainly intended for a man, who appears seated, 
 with his feet resting upon a dog's or wolf's head. This relic 
 may very possibly be of Saxon origin, as may the key-stone 
 beneath, which represents a figure not uncommon with the 
 barbarous sculptors of those and the Danish times, namely, a 
 species of dragon in the act of biting his tail. It may be 
 worthy of remark, that " the arch that separates the nave and 
 chancel" is not, as some of the Guide-books have it, " of con- 
 siderable antiquity," being nowise distinguished in that 
 respect from the rest of the building. 
 
 North of the church stands the seat of John Fleming, esq., 
 the grounds of which are planned with much taste and atten- 
 tion to picturesque effect. They slope, precipitously in some 
 places, down to the shore, where there is a bathing house, 
 with various accompaniments, which, if not exactly Swiss, are 
 exceedingly pretty. 
 
 The grounds of Binstead Parsonage adjoin Mr. Fleming's 
 on the west. Their owner, the Rev. Augustus Hewitt, very po- 
 litely admits the public to view them on certain days ; namely, 
 Fridays, before one, and Mondays, after four o'clock. The house 
 is only a pleasing cottage, a picture of elegant rustication. 
 But the little paradise which surrounds it, must be seen to 
 be properly appreciated. It forms an assemblage of knolls and 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 23 
 
 lawns, flower-beds, tufts of elegant shrubs, and groupes of 
 noble evergreens ; with rock- work, and other artificial decora- 
 tions, amongst the latter of which a delightful rustic summer- 
 house should be specially noticed. A terrace looks out beau- 
 tifully upon the , Solent, through breaks in the umbrageous 
 trees that line the shore. 
 
 Our walk is continued by the pleasant foot-path which con- 
 ducts, through Quarr Copse, to the remains of the Abbey. 
 This once famous monastic establishment was founded in the 
 reign of Henry the First, by Baldwin, earl of Devon, and by 
 him dedicated to St. Mary. It was of the Cistertian order ? 
 and one of the first of that class in England. After receiving 
 the remains of its noble founder, his countess, and their son, 
 and flourishing in monkish state through a long series of 
 years, this establishment fell before the spirit of reform gene- 
 rated in the times of Henry the Eighth. After the dissolution, 
 one George Mills, a merchant of Southampton, purchased it 
 for the sake of its materials, and succeeded, beyond many of 
 his compeers, who engaged in similar undertakings, in his 
 work of destruction. All that even Protestantism should have 
 regarded as venerable and sacred, was mercilessly levelled and 
 dispersed : and so complete was the spoliation, that long 
 masses of the walls, which, when perfect, enclosed the abbey 
 precincts, thirty acres in extent, are now almost the only 
 vestiges remaining. What appears to have been the gable 
 at the east end of the chapel, is so mantled with ivy that 
 scarcely a portion of that structure is visible. The refectory 
 is more perfect, from having been converted into a barn. 
 Other detached parts, shewing here and there a fragment of 
 an arch or door- way, are visible. A farm-house occupies 
 what may have been near the centre of the buildings, and has 
 evidently been constructed with the refuse stones which were 
 left behind. 
 
 The epithet Quarr is supposed to have been derived from 
 
24 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 the stone quarries in the neighbourhood, from which the 
 Abbey was built, and which also served for the re-edification 
 of the body of Winchester cathedral. At least the registers 
 of Winchester inform us, that when William of Wykeham 
 undertook that work, the material was supplied from the 
 Isle of Wight, and that the abbot of Quair was commissioned 
 to provide carriages for its conveyance as far as the sea-shore. 
 The stone dug from these quarries is still in common use. 
 It varies much in quality, being in part exceedingly hard and 
 durable, and in part light, porous, and admitting of rapid 
 calcination. The inferior sort appears in the construction of 
 nearly all the garden-walls, out-buildings, and cottages, in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 The walk may be extended from hence, if it is thought de- 
 sirable, by tracing another foot-path, leading to Fishbourne, 
 also called Fish House, a little village situated at the mouth 
 of the Wootton river, where there is a ship-builder's yard, 
 from which even frigates have been launched, as have also 
 several of those fine vessels belonging to the members of the 
 Yacht Club. The return to Ryde is practicable along the 
 shore, when the tide is down ; or it may be pursued by keep- 
 ing onward after passing through the village, and falling into 
 the road from Newport. The country rises into considerable 
 elevations on both sides of the river, and is finely wooded, in 
 parts even to the water's edge. 
 
 Excursions. 
 
 1. To Wootton Bridge, and Fern Hill ; returning by Fire- 
 stone Copse, and Binstead Hill. 
 
 This is a pleasant drive, though short, and not presenting 
 any very remarkable objects. To Wootton Bridge, by the 
 Newport road, is three miles. Soon after leaving Ryde, 
 observe on the right Westmount, the seat of Mrs. Lind. 
 
 Arriving at Wootton Bridge, Kite Hill, the residence of 
 
THfl ISLii OF WIGHT. 
 
 25 
 
 Mrs. Popham, is seen on the left. This village is one of the 
 most pleasingly situated in the island. It is placed in a hollow, 
 through the centre of which flows the Wootton River, an 
 object in itself highly picturesque, especially at high water, 
 when, with all its accompaniments of shipping, the wooded 
 eminences around, and the beautiful contiguous grounds of 
 Fern Hill, a scene is presented that can scarcely fail to gratify 
 every visitant. A passage-boat, between this village and 
 Portsmouth, goes and returns daily. 
 
 Leaving this pretty spot, and gaining the top of the hill, a 
 road to the right, leading from the house and pleasing grounds 
 of the Rev. R. Walton White, conducts to the Church, which 
 is a dependency upon that of Whippingham. It is without 
 any features of interest ; and the only point of importance in 
 its history is, that it is erected on the site of a former edifice, 
 whose destruction was occasioned by fire. In the same direc- 
 tion lies King's Quay, about two miles from the village, where 
 King John is said to have secluded himself, as noticed in our 
 historical sketch of the Isle. 
 
 The road to the left leads to Wootton Common; whither 
 proceeding, we are struck with a fine view of the Downs and 
 the adjacent country. The common is now completely en- 
 closed, and possesses nothing more remarkable than the neat 
 cottage of George Brannon, the self-taught artist, whose 
 " Views," considering the circumstances under which they 
 have been produced, must be admitted by all to do credit both 
 to his native talent and his industry. 
 
 Before reaching the common, we have passed on the left 
 Fern Hill, the seat of Samuel Sanders, Esq. This mansion, 
 erected by the late Duke of Bolton, when governor of the 
 Island, is in a style not quite calculated to convey a favourable 
 idea of the erector's taste. It is meant for Gothic. A lofty 
 tower, battlemented, and crowned by a circular observatory, 
 looks imposingly, it is true, around. But the general aspect 
 4. 
 
20 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 is more church-like than domestic; and the noble trees which 
 rise in rear of and about the structure, and the magnificent 
 evergreens and shrubs that adorn the grounds, together with 
 the beauty in other respects of those grounds themselves, will 
 generally be admitted to form the chief attractions of Fern 
 Hill. 
 
 Again reaching Wootton, the return to Ryde by Firestone 
 Copse and Binstead Hill has been already indicated. It is 
 recommended by variety, but affords no scope for remark. 
 
 2. To St. Helen's, Brading, Yaverland, and Bembridge 
 Point; returning by Ashey Down. 
 
 Taking the Brading road from Ryde, the tourist will have 
 on his left the various objects described in the walk to Sea 
 View : but he will avoid the direct route to Brading when he 
 reaches St. Clare, through adopting the detour by St. Helen's. 
 
 Pass the entrance to The Priory on the left, with a part of 
 the noble woods attached to the demesne. This mansion and 
 grounds, late the seat of Sir Nash Grose, now that of his 
 nephew, Edward Grose Smith, Esq., have long been regarded 
 as constituting one of the most delightful retreats in the Island. 
 The house is well and handsomely built of free-stone : it over- 
 looks a fine sloping lawn, and a stretch of the richly wooded 
 scenery in which this part of the Isle of Wight certainly excels 
 every other, and commands besides a fine aquatic and coast 
 view. The forest trees are of luxuriant growth, and flourish 
 down to the water's edge : while the magnolias, hydrangias, 
 myrtles, and other ornamental shrubs, attain a size and beauty 
 rarely surpassed elsewhere. There are extensive wood- walks 
 cut in the cliffs ; and the sands are delightful. This seat has 
 been the residence of the Grose family, and their ancestors, 
 since the time of James the Second. It derived its name from 
 the lands (which form the greater part of the parish of St. 
 •Helen's) having formerly belonged to a priory of Cluniac, 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 27 
 
 monks, founded before the year 1155. No traces exist of the 
 monastic buildings, which are supposed to have stood in a field 
 near the old church : but towards the extremity of the grounds 
 are remains of a watch-tower, the history of which is buried 
 in obscurity. 
 
 The old Church of St. Helen's, just spoken of, is a ruin, 
 consisting of little more than the tower, which, while the rest 
 of the edifice was suffered to be washed away by the sea, has 
 been preserved and strengthened as a sea-mark. It stands 
 near the entrance to Brading harbour. 
 
 The preterit Church is passed on our route. Its chancel is 
 the only part not entirely rebuilt in 1830; and even that is 
 not older than 1719, when the devastations committed upon 
 the previous structure rendered a new church necessary. 
 This chancel contains several memorials of the Grose family; 
 and, among the rest, of Sir Nash Grose, Knt. one of the judges 
 of the court of King's Bench, who died in 1814, and of hi* 
 only son, Captain Edward Grose, of the Foot Guards, who 
 was killed at the battle of Waterloo. The part lately rebuilt 
 is distinguished by a transept, with a handsome window at 
 each end; though the entire edifice is small, containing only 
 two hundred and ninety-seven sittings, one hundred and 
 twenty-nine of which are free. Over the altar is a well- 
 executed painting of a cross surrounded by a glory. 
 
 The village of St. Helen's is built round a rural green. 
 It commands a fine view of the British Channel, Bembridge 
 Point, with its pretty chapel, situated on the opposite side 
 of the entrance to Brading haven, Bembridge and Brading 
 downs, &c. 
 
 On the right, just before entering Brading, observe Nitri- 
 te ell, the large old family mansion of Sir William Oglander, 
 Bart, whose family is the most ancient in the Island, having 
 come over from Normandy with the Conqueror. The house 
 groups well with the screen of trees, and the down, in rear 
 
28 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 and on one side of it. The park contains several oak trees of 
 large size and great antiquity. 
 
 Brading is rendered picturesque by its situation on the 
 opposite slopes of two hills. Several of the houses are antique, 
 composed of timber frame-work, enclosing compartments of 
 bricks placed in what is called the herring-bone fashion. 
 This is an ancient market- town — " The Kyng's Towne of 
 Bradynge," as it is styled on the common seal — paying an 
 annual fee-farm rent of four marks into the exchequer, and 
 being governed by two bailiffs, a recorder, and thirteen jurats. 
 Its first charter bears date in the reign of Edward the Sixth. 
 It has also a court of pie-poudre, and two fairs, held annually 
 on the 12th of May and 2nd of October. The market-house 
 and town-hall form together an inconsiderable structure near 
 the Church. 
 
 The last-mentioned edifice is supposed to occupy the site of 
 the first erection for Christian worship in the Island, the 
 founder of which was Wilfrid, bishop of Winchester, who is 
 said to have consecrated it in the year 704. From that cir- 
 cumstance, some have imagined that this is Wilfrid's church, 
 and it is customary to speak of it as " the oldest in the Isle of 
 Wight." But there is nothing in the structure to warrant our 
 receiving even the latter account as correct. It would require 
 an antiquarian dissertation to shew the reasons upon which 
 our opinion is grounded; and the present work is not the most 
 proper field for arguments upon such a point. We will only 
 observe, that the neighbouring church of Yaverland is unques- 
 tionably the older edifice; and that is supposed to have been 
 erected not earlier than the reign of Edward the First. 
 Brading church, however, is doubtless an antique and interest- 
 ing building: it is large, having a body, chancel, and side- 
 aisles; and its massive round pillars, surmounted by Norman 
 capitals, and supporting pointed arches, are alone a study for 
 the antiquary. This was one scene of the picus labours of 
 
THE ISLE CF WIGHT. 
 
 29 
 
 the late Rev. Legh Richmond, who was for a time curate of 
 Brading; and the front of the gallery exhibits an ingenious 
 contrivance of his, which, by means of a variety of little sliding 
 boards, inscribed with letters and figures, shows the congre- 
 gation the psalm to be sung, and the version. There are some 
 old tombs in the communion place, and in Sir William Og- 
 lander's chapel, or family burial-place, which is separated from 
 the rest of the church by an oak screen. The most ancient 
 legible date of these monuments is 1567: two of them have 
 full-length figures in armour, of solid elm wood, originally 
 painted in their proper colours, and gilt, but now disfigured 
 by coats of dirty white. There are also several old table 
 tombs, whose inscriptions are illegible, in the church-yard; 
 and here is the celebrated epitaph to Mrs. Ann Berry, set to 
 music by Dr. Calcott, beginning 
 
 ** Forgive, blest shade, the tributary tear." 
 
 This, and two other well- written epitaphs, one to the me- 
 mory of Mr. Berry, and another for an infant of the name of 
 Dyer, were from the pen of the late Rev. Mr. Gill, curate of 
 Newchurch. An inscription of equal celebrity informs us, in 
 its concluding line, that 
 
 /' Jane, the Young Cottager, lies buried here." 
 
 Many of our readers will scarcely need to be informed that 
 this interesting female was a resident in Brading : and such 
 readers will be equally well acquainted with the fact, that at 
 a short distance from the town stood Knighton House, where, 
 for a short time, in the capacity of a servant, lived the " Dairy- 
 man's daughter." Mr. Richmond may be said to have im- 
 mortalised the names of both these humble personages by his 
 well-known tracts. 
 
 Brading Haven, which has been alluded to, is an arm of the 
 eea at high water, and, when the tide recedes, a marsh of very 
 
30 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 considerable extent, comprising nearly eight hundred and sixty- 
 acres. It allows of small vessels lying at the town quay. 
 
 We cross Brading Down to arrive at Yaverland. Bembridge 
 Down appears on the left; and a stream, of most serpentine 
 form, lying like a silver braid along the meadows between. 
 This stream, though nameless, traverses a great part of the 
 island before it empties itself into Brading haven. Though 
 so inconsiderable in size, it is called by the country people the 
 main river, and it turns several corn- mills. 
 
 Yaverland is made interesting only by its little Church, 
 already said to have been erected in the time of Edward the 
 First. Indeed, it seems likely that parts of it are more ancient; 
 especially the curious round-headed arch into the chancel, 
 which, with much good taste, is preserved in its ancient state, 
 though the walls around it are encrusted with whitewash. 
 The south door- way has an arch of similar form and character. 
 On Ash Wednesday, 1833, several of the stately elm-trees 
 contiguous to this church were blown down, and three of them 
 fell in as many different directions around and close to the 
 sacred building, committing only the trifling injury of chipping 
 off a piece of one of the tiles on the south side! — an almost 
 miraculous preservation of the little structure, in the eyes of 
 the surrounding peasantry. 
 
 The manor farm-house, which stands close to Yaverland 
 church, is a mansion of the times of Elizabeth, or her suc- 
 cessor, James the First. It is probable that the church was 
 originally only a chapel for the use of the manorial lords, as it 
 is still a dependency upon that of Brading. 
 
 Yaverland may be said to form part of the peninsula which 
 ends in Bembridge Point, where is the small village before 
 noticed as overlooking the haven towards St. Helen's. The 
 chapel here is of pleasing form, and quite a modern erection, 
 having been consecrated by the present Bishop of Winchester 
 in 1827. The situation of the neat houses around it must be 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 31 
 
 allowed by all to be one of no common beauty. The cele- 
 brated Culver Cliffs range along the opposite side of the 
 peninsula ; they are four hundred feet high, and command, as 
 may be supposed, a most extensive view, of winch the main 
 feature is the broad bosom of the British Channel. In these 
 cliffs is a cavern called Hermit's Hole, which may be visited 
 by a path from the top; but the descent is not unattended 
 with danger, and the object is not worth the risk that must be 
 run to accomplish it. Culver Cliffs were the scene of the 
 Rev. Legh Richmond's meeting with the " Negro Servant," 
 which, together with the surrounding scenery, he so well 
 describes in the tract published under that title. 
 
 Prior to the return from Yaverland to Ryde, the tourist may 
 view Sandown Fort, built to command the wide-spreading 
 bay of the same name, and thus to defend the only avenue 
 upon this part of the coast by nature left open to the descent 
 of an enemy. The fortification in itself possesses nothing to 
 interest : it is of quadrangular form, and has a bastion at each 
 angle. It was built with the materials of one of Henry the 
 Eighth's castles, which, by the time of Charles the First, it 
 was found indispensable to remove, on account of the inroads 
 made by the sea. Contiguous is a cottage, pointed out as 
 once the residence of that celebrated political character, John 
 Wilkes. 
 
 The return may then be varied by passing over Ashey Down, 
 on whose apex is erected a triangular pyramid of hewn stone, 
 about twenty feet high, having its point as it were obliquely 
 cut off : it serves as a mark for ships coming into St. Helen's 
 Roads, or Sjjithead, having been built for that purpose, in 
 1735, at the expense of government. The view from the 
 summit of the down is one of the finest in the island, being as 
 extensive as it is beautifully diversified. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 COWES, AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 The town of Cowes bears much the same relation to 
 Southampton, as that of Ryde does to Portsmouth. Like 
 Ryde, it is the point of communication between the Isle of 
 Wight and the nearest place of importance on the opposite 
 shore : and it must be added, that the approach by the steam- 
 boat is calculated to impress a very favourable idea of it upon 
 the mind of the visitant. The harbour and roadstead being 
 generally occupied by shipping, present a very lively appear- 
 ance : and the town itself, distinguished by the titles of East 
 and West, from the respective positions of its parts on the 
 banks of the river Medina, opens most agreeably on the spec- 
 tator as the vessel advances. A conspicuous object on the 
 eastern shore is the Castle built by John Nash, Esq. with the 
 rich foliage with which it is surrounded. On the opposite 
 bank, West Cowes, by far the more important portion of the 
 place, is seen to great advantage. Here, West Cowes Castle, 
 and the villas near, with the Royal Yacht Club-House, the new 
 Chapel, and the trees intermixed throughout, form an admi- 
 rable group. The charm is well-nigh dispelled, it is true, 
 on entering the High Street, which is both narrow and wind- 
 ing: but it revives in the delightful, ever-undulating environs. 
 Many of the houses, even in the High Street itself, have a 
 beautiful look-out seaward; and some of the best lodging- 
 houses being there situated, derive convenience of course from 
 their neighbourhood to the numerous and excellent shops. 
 
THE I9LK OF WIGHT. 
 
 3 j 
 
 Hie general appearance of the place is far less regular than 
 that of Hyde ; but it has recommendations peculiarly its own, 
 among which, the noble entrance to the river, and the naval 
 bustle usually attendant upon a port, must be especially 
 mentioned. 
 
 The period at which Cowes literally appears in " all its 
 glory," is that of the annual Regatta, which usually takes 
 place in August. At that season, as a contemporary writer 
 remarks, " the royal yachts frequently honour the Club by 
 their attendance; a man-of-war or two is likewise ordered here 
 for the occasion; the brig, schooner, and cutter-yachts of all 
 dimensions, are dressed, as it is termed, in the various colours 
 and signals of the R. Y. C. (Royal Yacht Club) ; the steam- 
 packets, with numerous private yachts, and almost countless 
 boats, from the ornamental canoe to the man-of-war's launch, 
 are passing in every direction : while the peculiar character cf 
 the scenery presents the whole in so conveniently bounded a 
 circumference, as adds material beauty to this grand naval 
 spectacle." The Royal Yacht Club House, which may be 
 viewed as the focus of this interesting scene, being the place 
 at which the noblemen and gentlemen of the club hold their 
 meetings, stands on the Paraue, and forms a conspicuous 
 feature of that delightful spot. It is distinguished by the 
 semaphore, and other apparatus, for the display of the signals 
 made by the members of the club to their respective vessels in 
 the road-stead. The Club, which was established in the year 
 1812, is graced by the names of some of the most distinguished 
 among our English nobility; with Lord Yarborough, and the 
 Earl of Belfast, for Commodore and Vice-Commodore. 
 
 A little eastward of the Club-house stands a villa, but a few 
 years since the property, and occasional residence, of King 
 George the Fourth. G. H. Ward, Esq. of Northwood House, 
 is its present owner ; and Lord Listowell its occupant. Two 
 pleasing houses, belonging respectively to A. Corbett, Esq. 
 5. 
 
34 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 and Sir John Hippisley, Bart., intervene, in the opposite direc- 
 tion, between the Club House and the Castle; which latter 
 was originally only one of the small semi- circular batteries 
 erected by Henry the Eighth. The work of that monarch 
 still remains, and nearly in its first state; exhibiting the 
 peculiarities of the limestone of which it is composed, both as 
 to the hardness and durability of the stones, and the singular 
 little cavities appearing every where upon their surfaces ; being 
 occasioned by the perishing of the small shells imbedded in 
 the original substance. The battery mounts eight guns. 
 Only a small part of the mansion, which forms the upper 
 portion of the structure, is ancient; both it, and the grounds 
 attached, having received considerable additions and improve- 
 ments of late years, particularly from the Marquis of Anglesea, 
 who is the present Governor, and some part of whose family 
 is generally resident here. 
 
 The Castle forms one extremity of the Parade : the Marine 
 Hotel stands at the other. This house, with the Fountain 
 and the Vine in the High Street, are the three principal Inns. 
 All of them afford accommodations for landing : but the prin- 
 cipal work of this kind, and what may indeed be considered 
 as the Town-quay, is that connected with the premises of the 
 Fountain. Here the steam-packets discharge and receive their 
 passengers, without the intervention of boats; a facility for 
 which visitors are indebted to the late George Ward, Esq. at 
 whose expense this great public improvement was erected. 
 
 The Baths are contiguous to the Parade at its west end. 
 They afford all the customary accommodations. Owing to 
 the steepness of the beach, the machines are lowered by means 
 of windlasses; and from the same circumstance it arises that 
 the bather may here add depth of water to the calm surface 
 and the security which are enjoyed at Ryde. The shore is 
 naturally rocky at this part of the island; but care has been 
 taken to remove any impediments to pleasant bathing that 
 might have resulted therefrom. 
 
T1I2 13 LE OF WIGHT. 
 
 .Jo- 
 
 After the Baths we should perhaps mention the Libraries. 
 These are two in number, both situated in the High Street, 
 and are known respectively by the names of their proprietors, 
 Messrs. Pinhorn and Moir. 
 
 In public buildings, Cowes does not stand conspicuous. 
 That which may be considered of the first importance as to its 
 object, the Town-hall, is a perfectly plain and unobtrusive 
 structure. In it the commissioners for improving the place 
 hold their weekly meetings. Below is the Market-house. 
 The whole was erected in pursuance of an Act of Parliament 
 obtained in the year 1816. 
 
 The Church, or more properly Chapel, is a dependency 
 upon that of North wood, in which parish Cowes is situated, 
 It is one of the very few edifices of its kind, whose origin may 
 be traced to the time of the Protector Cromwell, having been 
 built in the year 1653. Owing to the peculiar spirit of that 
 age, it was not consecrated, by the bishop of the diocese, until 
 1662; and then was not dedicated, as is customary, to any 
 particular saint. A Mr. Richard Stephens endowed it, in 
 1671, with £5 per annum; and, says the historian Worsley, 
 " it was further endowed, in the year 1679, by Bishop Morley, 
 with the sum of £20 per annum, provided the inhabitants paid 
 their minister (who is always a person of their own choosing) 
 the sum of £40 per annum; but in case of a failure on their 
 part, the said endowment to be forfeited for ever." It is not 
 the least singular part of the history of this chapel, that, 
 notwithstanding Worsley's assertion of the right of presen- 
 tation by the inhabitants, two clergymen in succession have 
 been appointed to the incumbency by the vicar of Northwood ; 
 owing to their permission of which, as it is said, the townsmen 
 have lost their ancient privilege. In 1811, the building was 
 enlarged and improved, at the expense of nearly £3000, by 
 the late George Ward, Esq. ; and it owes to the same gentle- 
 man the tower at the west end, which also serves as the family 
 
36 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 mausoleum. The style of this tower is certainly more singular 
 than tasteful : the architect was John Nash, Esq. The 
 monument within, to the memory of Mrs. Ward, should be 
 inspected by every visitor. 
 
 A striking contrast to this chapel, as regards architectural 
 effect, is afforded by the " Church or Chapel of the Holy 
 Trinity," consecrated June 21st, 1832, and erected at the sole 
 expense of an individual, Mrs. Goodwin. This very pleasing 
 edifice stands commandingly on that part of the hill, commonly 
 called the West Cliff, which overlooks the Baths. Its Gothic 
 character, externally, is chastely and appropriately sustained; 
 while, internally, it may lay just claim to the praise of ele- 
 gance. Here, the long pointed windows on each side have 
 not their effect spoiled, as is so commonly the case, by side 
 galleries : and there is a charming lightness and taste in the 
 decorations of the trusses under the ceiling, as well as in the 
 altar screen, which, ornamented with niches, canopies, and 
 open work, is well contrasted by the small but good stained- 
 glass window at the east end. The exterior is of white brick, 
 with window-cases, mullions, &c. of Bath stone. The architect 
 was Mr. Bramble, of Portsmouth. Mrs. Goodwin, to whom 
 we have already said the town is indebted for this ecclesiastical 
 structure, is a lady residing at the extremity of the West Cliff, 
 who also gave the freehold ground, and endowed the chapel 
 with the interest of £1000 in the 3^ per cents, as well as with 
 a further sum for repairs. These endowments, it is true, were 
 demanded by an Act for the regulation of new churches built 
 from private sources, which passed in the present reign : but 
 that circumstance detracts nothing from the munificence of 
 such an example. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Chapel is perhaps the next most 
 important religious edifice. It stands in Carvel Lane, and pre- 
 sents a brick elevation, in external appearance more domestic 
 than ecclesiastical. The interior is lofty, and fitted up with 
 
THi£ ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 3? 
 
 some pretensions to that splendour of effect so common in 
 structures appropriated to the service of the Catholic faith. 
 
 The Wesley an Chapel, in Birmingham Row, has a very 
 neat, front of Swanage stone. Though with scarcely an archi- 
 tectural feature, except a pediment and cornice, it has an ex- 
 tremely chaste and pleasing effect. The interior is corres- 
 pondently handsome and appropriate. 
 
 The Independent Chapel, on Sun Hill, is a plain brick 
 edifice, not requiring particular remark. 
 
 Of religious and benevolent institutions, Cowes, to its honour, 
 possesses its full share. Among these may be reckoned the 
 National Schools, erected in 1821, on a site bestowed by the 
 late George Ward, Esq. ; various Sunday Schools ; a Ladies* 
 Bible Association; the Seaman's Library; the Parochial Lend- 
 ing Library ; a Friendly Society, a Dispensary, &c. 
 
 The West Cliff, with its delightfully situated cottages, 
 deserves particular mention. It may be visited in connexion 
 with the Parade, of which, indeed, it may be viewed as a con- 
 tinuation ; and, certainly, few places can boast a more charming 
 intermixture of trees, gardens, and pleasure-grounds, with 
 pleasing cottages, and handsome houses, than is presented by 
 the whole line from the Marine Hotel to the end of the Cliff. 
 Pursuing this route by the beach, the villas of the Earl of 
 Belfast and Lord Grantham will be seen on the left ; or, taking 
 the road, the visitor will pass Trafalgar House, the occasional 
 residence of the Duke of Norfolk. By extending the walk we 
 shall reach the most northern point of the island, which, rather 
 strangely, bears the name of Egypt. Here stands Egypt 
 House, the property of Sir Thomas Tancred, Bart., but the 
 residence of the Misses Tod. Its site is an agreeable lawn, 
 which is only separated by a stone wall from the beach. 
 Though the greater part is modern, having been rebuilt about 
 twenty-five years since, an antique character is well preserved 
 throughout the edifice; and, notwithstanding its cheerful out- 
 
33 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 look upon the Solent, it has somewhat of an air of seclusion 
 almost monastic. 
 
 Strangers frequently conclude this ramble from the Parade, 
 or the West Cliff, by proceeding to Gurnard's Bay, a spot 
 not remarkable except as having been once distinguished by a 
 town, where now stand only two or three insignificant cottages. 
 Charles the Second is said to have landed here, on occasion of 
 a visit which he paid to the island. 
 
 Before proceeding further in our notice of the environs of 
 West Cowes, it is incumbent upon us to mention Northwood 
 Park, the seat of George Henry Ward, Esq. The spacious 
 house attached to this charming demesne, crowns the hill that 
 overlooks the town, and is contiguous to the old chapel, the 
 grounds communicating with the cemetery by a light iron gate. 
 The views from this elevated site are of equal extent and 
 beauty, both seaward and inland. The grounds are highly 
 ornamental a«nd tasteful, in situation much resembling those 
 attached to the Parsonage, and to Mr. Fleming's seat, at Bin- 
 stead; but they are less picturesque and romantic, as regards 
 the descent towards the shore. 
 
 The walk from Cowes called the Debourne Walk leaves 
 this delightful seat on the left, and passes the pretty cottage 
 orne of Mrs. Wilding. It is distinguished as the Debourne 
 Walk, from the name of the manor of which G. H. Ward, Esq. 
 is the lord. Both for beauty and variety of scenery, it will 
 yield the palm to none on the north side of the island. 
 
 Another favourite ramble is the Mill Walk, which also 
 affords delightful views, especially of the town itself, with the 
 harbour and road-stead. By this route we pass West Hill, the 
 residence of the Misses Ward, a cottage in the English rustic 
 style ; also Mill-Hill House, the seat of Mrs. Admiral Osborne. 
 Grove Cottage, the residence of Captain Knight; and Moor- 
 House, a Gothic villa, belonging to Mrs. James Ward, are in 
 the same neighbourhood. The walk may be extended to the 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 39 
 
 parish Church, or that of Northwood, which is twc miles and 
 a half distant; but the gratification to the pedestrian will 
 chiefly arise from the objects by the way, as the sacred struc- 
 ture contains in itself nothing to interest. 
 
 East Cowes 
 
 Is approached from its opposite neighbour by a ferry, at 
 which the regular demand upon the passenger is one half- 
 penny; though few, it is to be imagined, restrict their libe- 
 rality to the fare. Here stands the Custom- House, which is 
 for the island at large; also an Hotel, Baths, and other ap- 
 pendages proper to a watering-place. The parish church is 
 that of Whippingham, which is two miles and a half distant : 
 but, for the convenience of members of the establishment, a 
 church has been recently erected (by subscription) in the 
 valley below East Cowes Castle, for which John Nash, Esq. 
 gave the ground, and was the architect. Of this edifice all 
 that can properly be said is, that it is small, has no style, and 
 is plain as plainness itself. The Independents also have a 
 chapel here. 
 
 East Co zees Castle, already more than once mentioned, 
 stands on the brow of the hill that looks towards West Cowes, 
 and, together with its grounds, forms a point of attraction with 
 most visitors to either of those places. The site is well selected 
 for a residence of the Gothic character; and the general effect 
 of this castle, with its surrounding woods, must be admitted 
 to be imposing. On a nearer inspection, it is seen to unite 
 the features of the castellated mansion of a late date, with 
 those of the baronial strong-hold of a much earlier period ; 
 the former, doubtless, for convenience, the latter for the sake 
 of antiquated and striking appearance. Whether such an 
 union be consistent with correct taste, is a question which Mr. 
 Nash should be much more qualified to answer than ourselves : 
 but in this, as in *xiany other instances, we confess to have 
 
40 
 
 ILLUSTliATIONS» OF 
 
 been but little struck with the propriety of machicolated towers 
 frowning over the elegancies of domestic architecture. When 
 time has divested a style of building of its objects and meaning, 
 *it should be either wholly laid aside, or, if adopted in the way 
 of imitation, the imitation should be complete, and should 
 admit of nothing incongruous : an axiom this, which has been 
 but little studied by the architect and proprietor of East Cowes 
 Castle. 
 
 Elm Cottage, the property of Mrs. Lambert, is a more than 
 commonly pretty rustic dwelling, situated opposite the lodge 
 entrance to Mr. Nash's seat. Other objects worthy of attention 
 in this neighbourhood are, Osborne, the extensive mansion of 
 Charles Lambert, Esq. and Osborne Cottage, occupied by 
 Mrs. Burton. Nearer Cowes are the villas of Messrs. Shedden, 
 Miss Barrington, and J. Auldjo, Esq. 
 
 Norris Castle, a most conspicuous feature in the coast-view 
 of this part of the Island, may be approached either by the 
 road we have just quitted, or by a walk along the shore : the 
 latter, of course, should be adopted only when the tide is 
 favourable. Sir J. Wyattville (then Mr. Wyatt) erected this 
 singular structure for the late Lord Henry Seymour, who took 
 much pride in it, and evidently received pleasure from the 
 visits of strangers to his domain. As a specimen of the de- 
 fensive architecture of the age which it affects, it certainly 
 offers fewer incongruities than East Cowes Castle; yet, as a 
 whole, it is infinitely less pleasing to the eye, as well as less 
 elegant, than that edifice. The deception as to its apparent 
 antiquity, however, is complete to those unacquainted with the 
 details of an ancient English castle; and numbers, who might 
 first see Norris from the deck of a steam-boat, would be readily 
 impressed with the idea that centuries had elapsed since the 
 period of its erection. The grounds attached are open to the 
 inspection of the public, and will repay the exertion of a stroll 
 through them. The Stables, which are on a princely scale, 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 41 
 
 the Pier, Bathing-House, and Sea- Walls, all erections of the 
 late noble owner, merit at least passing attention from the 
 visitor. 
 
 The road to Whippingham affords, on looking back, a very 
 picturesque view of West Cowes, together with the Medina, the 
 hills to the south, the Solent and Hampshire coast on the north, 
 and on the right, near at hand, Mr. Nash's Castle. The very- 
 neat little parish Church, here situated, small as it is, consists of a 
 body, chancel, transept, tower, and spire. Close to it is the 
 "Parsonage, which, like the church, is most pleasingly F.eated 
 on the river's bank. 
 
 Padmore, the seat of C. Smith, Esq., lies a little beyond 
 the village. The house is partly old, and was converted from 
 a farm-house into a seat by a former occupant. It commands 
 a lovely view up the Medina, with the country on each side, 
 and the downs beyond. 
 
 Barton Farm may be viewed on the return to Cowes. 
 Here was formerly a small Augustine convent, or oratory, 
 some traces of which are yet visible. There is nothing in the 
 history of this monastic house, or in the appearance of the 
 existing structure, to demand minute attention. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 NEWPORT, AND THE INTERIOR. 
 
 Newport stands nearly in the centre of the island as 
 regards its eastern and western extremities, and is not far 
 from the same relative position as to north and south. It is 
 situated in a pleasing valley, the hills surrounding which add 
 greatly to the beauty of its home scenery; and its general 
 appearance is that of a neat, cleanly, and cheerful market- 
 6. 
 
42 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 town. It is the capital of the Isle of Wight ; has a popula- 
 tion, according to the return made in 1831, of 4318 persons ; 
 and has been incorporated since the commencement of the reign 
 of James I. The existing corporation, however, was consti- 
 tuted by Charles II., and consists of a Mayor, Recorder, ten 
 Aldermen, and twelve Burgesses. As previously mentioned, 
 it is the only town in the Island, which, by the Reform Act, 
 is allowed to retain its privilege of sending members to 
 Parliament. As a place of trade, it is much aided by its 
 eentrical situation, and by the river Medina, which is navigable 
 from hence to the harbour of Cowes. The agriculturist con- 
 siders it as the principal mart for his produce ; and its shops 
 supply nearly the whole of the interior, and back of the island, 
 with such articles as it is usual for the inhabitants of country 
 places to visit a market- town to purchase. 
 
 Newport wears, generally, the air of a modern town; and 
 perhaps its most ancient building, the church excepted, is the 
 Free Grammar School, which was built by subscription in the 
 year 1619. Even this erection, however, retains few of the 
 peculiar features of its era; and is remarkable only as having 
 been chosen for that conference between Charles I. and his 
 Parliament, which historians designate "The Treaty of New- 
 port." The apartment made memorable by this conference 
 is fifty feet in length, and was at that time, as now, the school- 
 room of the institution. 
 
 The Church, dedicated to St. Thomas a Becket, is supposed 
 to have been founded in the year 1172, towards the close of 
 the reign of Henry II.; and portions of the structure, yet 
 remaining, give warranty to the supposition. But many have 
 been the alterations of later years : in particular, the north 
 and south aisles seem to have been restored, if not wholly 
 rebuilt, in the Tudor times ; and additions were also made in 
 1701, as is seen from a date on the south side. The interior 
 is chiefly remarkable for a curiously carved oaken pulpit, which 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 43 
 
 bears date in 1636: the execution is very elaborate, display, 
 ing a series of figures in two rows of compartments, the upper- 
 most of which are emblematic of the cardinal virtues, and the 
 lower of various sciences, as rhetoric, astrology, music, 
 geometry, &c. The pews, and altar- screen, also of oak, were 
 erected in 1630. Just within the screen, is a small brass plate 
 in the floor, inscribed : " Underneath, in a lead Coffin, rest y a 
 Remains of Elizabeth, 2 d Daughter of King Charles V*. 
 Obiit Sept. 8th, 1650 : JEtat. 14." This inscription was 
 placed soon after the discovery, in 1793, of the vault in which 
 the princess was interred : the spot having been originally 
 marked only by a stone, simply bearing the letters E. S. 
 She died a prisoner in Carisbrooke Castle, about a year and a half 
 after her father's execution. The coffin was inscribed thus : — 
 
 ELIZABETH, 
 
 SECOND DAUGHTER OF THE LATE KING CHARLES, 
 DECE'd SEPTEMBER 8TH. MDCL. 
 
 The most important sepulchral memorial in this church, the 
 above mentioned excepted, is that to Sir Edward Horsey, Knt. 
 who was Captain of the island in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
 and uncle to Sir Jerome Horsey, ambassador from that 
 sovereign to the court of Petersburgh. His effigy, in 
 alabaster, lies on the tomb, under a canopy. The family pedi- 
 gree is traced from Sir Philip de Horsey, who lived in the 
 time of Henry the First, to the only child and heiress of the 
 late Samuel Horsey, Esq. whose son, Spencer H. de Horsey, 
 Esq., bears the name and arms of" De Horsey," by virtue of a 
 warrant from his Majesty William IV. 
 
 The other places* of public worship in Newport, are a 
 Roman-Catholic, a Unitarian, a Baptist, a Methodist, and 
 two Independent Chapels. Neither of these possess any 
 architectural or other features requiring particular notice. 
 
44 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 The Market-house and Town-hall make together a building 
 of important appearance, as will be evident from our plate. 
 The basement is opened on two sides Ly arches, surmounted bv 
 Ionic columns, which support a pediment in front : the 
 columns only are of stone, the remainder being stuccoed. The 
 cost of this erection was £10,000: it was commenced in the 
 year 1814, and completed two years afterwards. The design 
 was given to the town by John Nash, Esq. It deserves the 
 praise of internal convenience of arrangement, rather than that 
 of elegant external effect. The council- chamber, and magis- 
 trates' room, are the principal apartments: besides which, 
 there are rooms appropriated to the Town- Clerk, the Petty 
 Jury, the meetings of the Free-Masons, &c. Here are held 
 the borough quarter - sessions ; and the magistrates meet 
 weekly, on Saturdays, for the settlement of less important 
 cases. A relic of the feudal times also exists here, in what is 
 styled the Knights' Court, {Curia Militum) in which the 
 governor's deputy, called his steward, presides : it has jurisdic- 
 tion, under the value of forty shillings, over the whole island, 
 the borough itself excepted. The institutor of this ancient 
 court is said to have been William Fitz-Osborne, the first lord 
 of Wight ; and the judges, who decide without the intervention 
 of a jury, are all who hold a knight's fee from the lord. 
 
 The greatest architectural ornament to Newport, as well as 
 that which does most honour to the taste of Mr. Nash, is the 
 Is f e of Wight Institution, an edifice erected by subscription, at 
 the cost of £3000, in the year 1811. This institution is sup- 
 ported, as it deserves to be, by nearly every person of con- 
 sideration in the island. Its chief features are, a very good 
 library; a reading-room, supplied with newspapers and perio- 
 dical publications; and a museum. The annual subscription 
 of the members is two guineas each. This building presents a 
 very handsome front, of Swanage stone, to St. James's Square. 
 
 Newport has also its Mechanics' 9 Institution, with other 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 45 
 
 societies for the spread of literature and knowledge ; and, 
 besides the Grammar- School, already mentioned, a Free- 
 School, established in 1761, for the education of girls; and a 
 National-School, commenced in 1 8 1 6, for the instruction of poor 
 children of both sexes. 
 
 Two buildings, of very opposite character, the Theatre and 
 the Gaol, are to be found in Holyrood- Street. The former, 
 though small, is both neat and convenient : the latter is nothing 
 more than an old house, adapted, with little shew of art, to 
 its present purpose. 
 
 The principal hotels and inns are, the Bugle, the Green 
 Dragon, (where are held the assemblies), the Star, and the 
 Wheatsheaf. From the first-mentioned, which is in the High 
 Street, Coaches proceed to Ryde and Cowes, and return, at 
 stated hours, daily. These conveyances are well conducted, and 
 the roads they travel afford much variety of pleasing scenery. 
 Stapler's Heath, on the way to Ryde, presents a noble pano- 
 ramic view ; and by the same route, the traveller will obtain a 
 sight of that delightful little village, before described, called 
 Wootton-Bridge. Fair lee, a handsome seat, the property of 
 John White, Esq., is passed on the road to East Cowes ; and 
 Saint Cross, formerly a priory, now the residence of Joseph 
 Kirkpatrick, Esq., on that to West Cowes. 
 
 Other objects of interest, contiguous to the town, occurring 
 on the road to West Cowes, are the House of Industry, and 
 the Albany Barracks. The first mentioned is the poor-house 
 for the whole island, and was erected pursuant to an Act of 
 Parliament obtained in 1770. It has all the requisite accom- 
 modations for one thousand persons; and, what is of the first 
 importance, its inmates are properly employed. Doubtless, 
 this institution, among its other beneficial effects, has contri- 
 buted much to that general absence of the beggar and the 
 vagrant, which the stranger in the Isle of Wight cannot fail 
 to observe. Happy were »t for almost innumerable other 
 
46 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 places in the kingdom, if their provisions for the poor could be 
 made to appear equally effective ! 
 
 The Albany Barracks formerly took name from their situa- 
 tion on part of the extensive tract of waste land called Park- 
 hurst Forest; their present designation was a compliment to 
 the late Duke of York and Albany, when commander-in-chief 
 of the British forces. These erections were commenced 
 towards the close of the year 1798: they occupy, together 
 with the hospital, an area of about 100 acres, and are complete 
 in every military accommodation. Their importance is of 
 course greatly diminished since the termination of the war ; 
 and, for several years past, they have been little occupied. 
 
 In describing the interior of the island, we shall take in 
 detail the various places, within seven or eight miles from 
 Newport, to which there are roads west, south, and east; 
 those to the north having been already mentioned. Pursuing 
 this plan, we shall in the first instance proceed westward to 
 
 Carisbrooke. 
 
 A charming walk along the Mall (so is the favorite prome- 
 nade of the Newportonians denominated) conducts to this pic- 
 turesquely situated village, which is not more than a mile and 
 a half distant. Our view exhibits all the more prominent 
 features of this once important place, with the majestic ruins 
 of the Castle on the one hand, the valley beneath, and the 
 village itself, with its fine old church, on the opposite eminence. 
 Anciently, no doubt, Carisbrooke was the capital of the Island ; 
 its castle having been the residence, and seat of government, 
 of the lords and captains of former times. Its name has 
 been derived by some from Whitgara-burgh, the town or city of 
 Whitgara, orWhitgar, a Saxon chief : but we prefer a more sim- 
 ple etymological deduction from Caer, the British for a strong- 
 hold, and brook, referring to the stream which flows through 
 the valley. The latter derivation would also lead us to a 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 47 
 
 period of antiquity more remote than the Saxon times ; and, 
 in truth, all the natural features of the elevation upon which 
 the Castle stands, are such as we may well suppose to have 
 been selected by the Britons for the ease with which they might 
 be adapted to the purposes of a hill-fortress. We are by no 
 means converts, however, to the opinion, that any portion of 
 the existing Castle can be ascribed to a more distant era than that 
 of Norman military architecture : even our friend the " Guide" 
 failed to convince us that the very keep was Saxon ; though we 
 have little doubt that its site once bore a Saxon tower, as ere- 
 while it had been graced by the British earthwork, whose 
 defences were completed by a ditch and palisade. 
 
 Carisbrooke Castle, though less perfect than many similar 
 remains of antiquity, is one of the most picturesque and inte- 
 resting now extant. It is probable that the oldest parts, the 
 keep included, were erected by William Fitz-Osborne, the first 
 lord, and his immediate successors. Considerable additions 
 were made in the reign of Henry I.; and, in that of Edward 
 IV., the grand gate, flanked by round towers, was built by 
 Lord Woodville, whose arms are yet to be descried upon it. 
 The smaller external gate was added by Queen Elizabeth, as 
 appears by her initials, and the date 1598. The oblique view 
 obtained of these gates, and the mouldering walls, on approach- 
 ing by the carriage-road, surpasses in picturesque and impres- 
 sive effect any delineation of them by the pencil that we have 
 been so fortunate as to witness. With exception of the last- 
 mentioned gate, Queen Elizabeth's additions appear to have 
 been confined to the outer wall, which she enlarged so as to 
 comprehend an area of twenty acres, and to the domestic 
 buildings, none of which seem older than her time. Among 
 these latter are shown part of the chamber in which Charles I. 
 was confined, with the window through which he vainly 
 attempted to escape. The most modern building of the whole 
 is the Chapel of St. Nicholas, rebuilt, on the site of a more 
 
48 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 ancient edifice, by George II. in 1738. In this chapel the 
 Mayor of Newport, and the High Constables, are still sworn 
 into office, either by the governor of the island or his deputy. 
 
 There is a well in the castle-yard, 300 feet deep, the con- 
 struction of which is with great probability ascribed to the 
 Romans, who are known to have gained possession of the 
 island in the reign of the emperor Claudius. Water is hence 
 obtained by means of a large wheel, within which an ass 
 treads, and by his steps communicates to it the power of a 
 windlass. An exhibition of the animal's performance is 
 made by the guide ; who also amuses the spectator with the 
 descent of a lighted lamp, which, floating upon the water, 
 gives a forcible idea of the depth from the summit to the 
 surface. Having thus viewed "the lions" of the place, the 
 visitor will do well to close his inspection by a tour of the 
 exterior walls, which, though a good mile's walk, will repay 
 his trouble by the extent and variety of the prospects. From 
 the side next the village he will not fail to notice the Vicarage- 
 House, the residence of the Rev. Joseph Maude: it stands 
 conspicuously on the rise of the elevation from the opposite 
 side of the valley, and, though perfectly unpretending, charms 
 every observer by its air of taste enhancing all the natural 
 beauties of a delightful rural abode. 
 
 The Church of Carisbrooke is said to have been founded in 
 the year 1064, a date from which it would acquire a Saxon 
 origin. There is nothing improbable in this account, though 
 the structure exhibits no Saxon remains in support of its cor- 
 rectness. The Norman conquerors were seldom satisfied with 
 the ecclesiastical structures they found erected on their arrival ; 
 and, in most cases, either rebuilt them from the ground, or so 
 enlarged and improved them, that the lapse of a century pro- 
 bably rendered it difficult to detect the workmanship of the 
 Saxon founders. In the present instance, as in many others, 
 though portions of plain walls, it is possible, may even yet be 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 49 
 
 standing which were reared by Saxon hand**, there is certainly 
 not a door, a window, or an ornament, that can bear date 
 earlier than the Norman period. The tower, (the noblest in 
 the Island), would clearly appear not to have been built till 
 after the Conquest; though, in all likelihood, it was an early 
 instance of the magnificence of the feudal lords resident in the 
 adjacent castle. The church, it seems, has lost its chancel, 
 and a side-aisle that was appended to it; and one of these, 
 perhaps, constituted the original Saxon edifice ! From age, 
 or for some other reason, it was thought necessary to re- 
 move those parts of the building in the reign of Henry VIII. ; 
 and the windows which were then inserted at the eastern 
 terminations of the present body and aisle, are evidence, from 
 their form, of the truth of the tradition which ascribes the 
 change to that period. In the interior there is nothing more 
 remarkable than the pulpit, on which appears the date 1658. 
 The only monument of any consequence is one to the memory 
 of the lady of Sir W. Wadham, captain of the island in the 
 time of Henry VII. 
 
 Contiguous to the sacred edifice are some ruins of a P?iory, 
 of the Cistertian order, founded by William Fitz- Osborne in 
 1071. The churches of Arreton, Whippingham, Newchurch, 
 Godshill, Niton, and Freshwater, were made dependencies 
 upon this Priory ; and the whole, together with that of Caris- 
 brooke, were bestowed by Fitz- Osborne upon the abbey of 
 Lyra, in Normandy, which he had previously founded. Strictly 
 speaking, the churches of Newport and Northwood are at this 
 time only chapels of ease to Carisbrooke. 
 
 Taking the Calbourne road from this place, we reach Swain- 
 ston, after proceeding about three miles. This delightful resi- 
 dence, formerly the seat of Sir Fitz-William Barrington, is 
 now the property of Sir Richard Simeon, Bart. From a hill, 
 as we approach, the grounds present a burst of the most luxu- 
 riant wooded scenery, the effect of which is greatly contributed 
 7. 
 
50 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 to by the romantic swells and declivities of the surface. The 
 house is large and handsome : it occupies the site of an an- 
 cient palace of the Bishops of Winchester; and there are yet 
 some remains of the chapel attached to it in former times. 
 These are now converted into offices. 
 
 Calbourne is a small village, affording nothing more re- 
 markable than its Church ; an edifice which, in all its principal 
 features, gives a specimen of the style of ecclesiastical build- 
 ing not later than the reigns of Henry III. or Edward I. 
 The windows, with exception of one on the north side, at a 
 part of the structure which has been modernised, are all of the 
 small lancet kind, in width barely 1 7 inches : and at the east 
 end is an example of one of the earliest steps towards the 
 progressive enlargement of windows, by the introduction of the 
 quatrefoil between the heads of two lancets. The tower, 
 which stands at the south-west angle, is of the period at which 
 ideas of defence were still so intimately connected with all 
 erections of its kind, that no windows, properly speaking, were 
 permitted in it, the only openings being slits of a very small size. 
 The porch, on the north side, is built against, and so as partly 
 to conceal, a Norman doorway bearing the chevron ornament. 
 
 Contiguous to the village stands Westover, the seat of Lady 
 Holmes. The house, though occupying a gentle eminence, is 
 most umbrageously secluded to the east and north, especially 
 the latter. On the east side the trees are not so near as to 
 create gloom, but, being disposed in the valley of a small 
 stream, and ranging along the opposite upland, have a very 
 rich and picturesque effect. The south front has a Doric 
 colonnade in the centre, with verandahs above and on each 
 side of it. It overlooks a beautiful intermixture of undulating 
 lawn and parterres, and towards a near range of downs, which 
 bound the view. 
 
 A cross-road will conduct from Calbourne to Shalfleet and 
 Newtown, both of which may be here described. 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 51 
 
 Shalfleet presents another curious instance of an ancient 
 Church, though one of later date than that last mentioned. 
 At least we may admit this conclusion from the size and form 
 of the windows, which shew a nearer approach to the large 
 opening of several lights, wherein the circle, quatrefoil, or other 
 figures at top, become incorporated with two or more lancets. 
 Here is also a remarkable Norman doorway, with a sculptured 
 impost, or lintel, filling up the head of the arch. The sculp- 
 ture is very rude : it has been said to represent a bishop, whose 
 arms are extended, and the hands resting on animals resem- 
 bling the griffin. The tower has been termed Saxon, but is 
 doubtless of Norman workmanship : its proportions are mon- 
 strous, being of greater width than the body of the church at 
 its west end, though but little higher than the same part of 
 the structure. It has the very unusual decoration of a fascia, 
 containing a Norman ornament, running round it. 
 
 Newtown perhaps took name from having been such in 
 comparison with Carisbrooke, to whose importance it suc- 
 ceeded : in its turn it has given way to New-port, and become 
 much inferior to Carisbrooke itself. Or it might have first 
 acquired its present appellation when rebuilt after a destructive 
 visit of the French in 1377, as it is on record that until that 
 period it was commonly called Francheville. Though at this 
 time comprising only fourteen cottages, with a population 
 (according to the return of 1831) of sixty-eight persons, it is 
 still a corporate town, governed by a mayor and burgesses, 
 and, until the passing of the Reform Act, sent two members 
 to Parliament ! The small Town-hall is one relic of its former 
 consequence, and the ruins of a Church constitute another. 
 An umbrageous lane, commencing opposite the village ale- 
 house dignified by the sign of the " Newtown Arms," leads 
 to the last-mentioned picturesque remain, which consists of 
 part of the north side, and of the east and west ends, of the 
 ancient building; the whole so shrouded with ivy, that a 
 
52 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OV 
 
 few pointed niches, of small dimensions, are almost the only 
 details that can be made out. Grass and nettles grow luxuri- 
 antly within, as without, the building : and the cemetery can 
 now be distinguished only by a few mouldering tomb -stones. 
 This church was a dependency upon that of Calbourne, and 
 its glebe still accrues to the rector of that parish. 
 
 An arm of the sea, of very irregular form, extends from 
 the Solent to Newtown, and constitutes its capacious harbour, 
 which will admit vessels of 500 tons burthen. The only 
 trade now connected with the place, is derived from its 
 salterns. Formerly it had a market, under a charter granted 
 by Edward II., and an annual fair of three days' duration. 
 The first charter was given by Aylmer, Bishop of Winchester, 
 lord of the borough, and is dated from Swainston : this was 
 afterwards confirmed by the crown. 
 
 Another road from Carisbrooke leads to Shorwell, four miles 
 distant. Looking back, the fine old tower of Carisbrooke 
 church is seen to great advantage, through a vista of noble 
 trees, at a short distance from the village. Nothing further 
 of interest occurs until we reach 
 
 Shorwell, a very pleasing spot, affording one other of 
 those examples, so common in the Isle of Wight, of rustic 
 life embellished by the charm arising from neatness in the 
 cottages, and the sight of flowers and evergreens ornamenting 
 their fronts and little gardens. The Church of this village 
 is rather large, having a body, chancel, and two aisles : its 
 most remarkable features are the inner doorway of the south 
 porch, which is of the Norman form, decorated with the nail- 
 head and chevron ornaments; and a window of two lights, 
 square-headed, surmounted by a label, bearing, in raised stone 
 figures, the date 1523. 
 
 Northcourt, the property of Mrs. Bennett, once the pride 
 of Shorwell, is now piteously neglected, as to its grounds and 
 their embellishments at least. These latter consisted of a 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 53 
 
 very pretty " Dairy a picturesque " Mausoleum," in memory 
 of a beloved daughter of Richard Bull, Esq. a former owner; 
 an " Alpine Bridge," crossing the high road at a considerable 
 height ; and " The Temple of the Sun," which, however, not- 
 withstanding its sounding name, was never more than a rustic 
 summer-house, crowning a very steep ascent, and, from its 
 elevation, commanding a very wide and delightful prospect. 
 The towering groves, and other native beauties of the spot, 
 are of course irremovable, except by the hand of violence : and 
 the same may be said of the succession of terraces, cut, it is 
 probable, by the original proprietor, in the fine swell of the 
 domain that adjoins the mansion at its south end. The man- 
 sion itself, as regards the greater part of its east or principal 
 front, is a good specimen of the domestic architecture that 
 characterised the age of James I. Over a porch, in the centre, 
 is a shield of arms, and the date 1619. The projecting portion 
 of this front, however, and the whole of that on the north 
 side, are later additions to the original design. 
 
 The pleasant village of Brixton (by the natives called 
 Brison) lies two miles farther on the same road. From hence 
 we again obtain a sight of the broad English Channel; but 
 may delay our observations of the coast, which is about a mile 
 distant, until we visit it in connexion with the " Back of the 
 Island." The Church of this village is not distinguished by 
 any peculiarity worthy remark. 
 
 Kingston, the smallest parish in the Isle of Wight, adjoins 
 that of Shorwell on the south-east. Its little Church occupies 
 a pretty eminence, shaded by elm-trees, and commanding a 
 good interior view. The general features of this part of the 
 Island, it may be here noticed, are not striking : the fineness 
 of the crops is the particular most likely to attract the travel- 
 ler's attention, there being but few trees, and the principal 
 diversity in the scenery being created by the range of downs 
 to the north. To the shelter afforded by these downs, as well 
 
54 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 as to the natural fertility of the soil, is to be ascribed the 
 exuberant produce just spoken of. These remarks will apply, 
 in a greater or less degree, to the whole extent of country, 
 south of the downs, from Freshwater to St. Catherine's Hill. 
 
 Again reverting to Newport as a centre, we may make a 
 pleasing excursion from thence through Godshill to Appuldur- 
 combe, the whole distance being but seven miles. 
 
 Gatcombe Park, the seat of Alexander Campbell, Esq. is 
 shortly observed on the right. The house, a large square 
 mansion erected about sixty years since, stands about three 
 miles south-west of Newport, and is most agreeably situated 
 in regard to its inland views, which are not to be exceeded in 
 the Island. Woods, lawns, eminences, and valleys, combine 
 to give the utmost richness and diversity to the scenery around 
 Gatcombe. Contiguous is the small village Church, also 
 "wood-embosomed;" and the Rectory rises on the opposite 
 shore of a little lake, The village itself offers a charming 
 picture of rural retirement. 
 
 Pidford meets the eye on the left. This house also is very 
 pleasantly situated : it is the residence of the Rev. Mr. 
 Bowerman. 
 
 Godshill is a picturesque village, much remarked for the 
 bold position of its Church, which, standing on a very abrupt 
 hill, surrounded by the cottages of the inhabitants, may be 
 supposed to have given name to the place, from its erection on 
 so commanding a site. Rustic tradition, indeed, tells that a 
 more lowly spot was at first selected ; but that the materials 
 employed for that purpose by day, being regularly removed, by 
 invisible agents, to the summit of the hill during the night, 
 the workmen at length wisely determined to save themselves 
 further unnecessary trouble, and built the church where some 
 supernatural authority so plainly intimated that it must be 
 erected ! The edifice, about which so extraordinary a story is 
 told, is a highly respectable example of a village church : it is 
 
T.JBaiber del* 
 
 WWaUis sculp 1 
 
 INTERIOR OT 
 
 <&©]B>§ MEIL TL €MWM€Mc 
 
 Loiiaun. JAiblished WSimjim & Marshall. 'Stationers Court. 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 55 
 
 large, and appears to have been almost wholly reared since the 
 adoption of ramified windows, and other elaborate ornaments, 
 in Gothic architecture : that it had a predecessor of much 
 more remote date, cannot however be doubted, since the parish 
 stands upon record from the time of the Conqueror, and its 
 original church was one of those given by Fitz- Osborne to his 
 
 abbey of Lyra. The elevated situation of this structure seems 
 to have exposed it to considerable danger in January, 1778, 
 when it was struck by lightning, which did so much injury 
 that some portions of it fell in the following year. In the 
 interior are several monuments, worth inspection, for members 
 of the Worsley family, long possessors of the neighbouring 
 seat at Appuldurcombe. There is a Grammar-School in the 
 village, which was founded and endowed by Sir Richard 
 "Vorsley in 1614. 
 
 "he noble mansion and domain styled Appuldurcombe, well 
 raerit a more detailed account than the compass of this work 
 will allow. They are now the property of the Right Hon. 
 Lord Yarborough. The visitor of the Island may reckon his 
 time not wholly mispent, if he has only seen Appuldurcombe : 
 but he must remember that to do this, it is necessary first to 
 obtain a ticket, or written order, from Thomas Sewell, Esq. 
 of Newport. The spacious park is approached, from Godshill, 
 by a handsome Ionic gateway : having passed which, the 
 noble swells and magnificent foliage of the grounds, arrest 
 the attention before it is fixed by the mansion itself. The 
 latter has four regular fronts, of the Corinthian order, built of 
 free- stone ; and the pilasters, cornices, balustrades, and other 
 ornamental parts, of Portland stone. The grand entrance is 
 in the east front. In rear rises one of the lofty downs, from 
 which the park is partly formed; its summit crowned by an 
 
 jbelisk of Cornish granite, nearly 70 feet high, which was 
 erected in memory of Sir Richard Worsley. By these downs 
 the view is encircled on two sides; but the magnitude of their 
 
50 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 forms, and the size of the trees dispersed through an area so 
 extensive, render that circumstance an addition rather than 
 otherwise, to the general effect. The late Rev. W. Gilpin 
 well observed of this seat : " Here every thing is uniformly 
 grand : the house is magnificent, and it is magnificently fur- 
 nished. The grounds too are laid out in a style of greatness 
 equal to the mansion." We cannot but think, however, that 
 Mr. Gilpin would have excepted from this praise the irregular- 
 shaped little parterres in the lawn in front, had they existed 
 at the time he wrote : they are appropriate neither to the 
 grand character of the house, nor to the large features of the 
 surrounding scenery. 
 
 The principal entrance is by a hall, 54 feet in length, by 
 24 in breadth, adorned by eight beautiful columns of the Ionic 
 order, made to resemble porphyry. " Upon opening the doors 
 of this hall," said Mr. Wyndham, in his account of the Island, 
 " it disclosed such a variety of beauties as made us forget all 
 criticism. Whichever way we turned our eyes, the most pre- 
 cious pieces of ancient sculpture, and paintings of the Roman 
 and Venetian schools, claimed our attention. The other rooms 
 on this floor are also superbly furnished, and decorated with 
 some fine pictures, and many excellent drawings of the cities, 
 countries, and ruins of the East. It is a singular circumstance, 
 that, in so large a collection of antiques, brought by Sir Richard 
 Worsley from Egypt, Turkey, and Italy, nothing spurious, or 
 like the refuse of other collections, should appear; but that 
 the minutest pieces should deserve some degree of attention." 
 These remarks do no more than justice to their subject : and 
 it may be added, that many of the paintings possess a high 
 degree of historical interest, being original portraits of no less 
 personages than Queens Mary and Elizabeth, Henry VIII., his 
 infant son Edward VI., &c. The two last-mentioned are by 
 Holbein : and it is recorded in the MS. catalogue lying in 
 the rooms, that the majority of these portraits were presents 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 57 
 
 from the sovereigns they represent, to the then proprietors of 
 Appuldurcombe . 
 
 The erection of this noble seat was commenced by Sir 
 Robert Worsley in 1710, and finished by his successor, Sir 
 Richard Worsley, who made considerable improvements upon 
 his father's plan. The original house stood at a slight 
 distance from the spot occupied by the present one : it had 
 been founded, after the dissolution of the monasteries, upon 
 the site of a small priory, or rather cell, of Benedictine monks, 
 which was at first a dependancy upon the abbey of St. Mary 
 de Montsbury, in Normandy, but was afterwards given to the 
 abbess and nuns of St. Clare, without Aldgate, London. A 
 prior, and two monks, resided here. There is a view of the 
 old mansion in Worsley 's History, the accuracy of which is 
 attested by the signature, " Robert Worsley, 1720." Speaking 
 of Appuldurcombe generally, Sir Robert says: "This place 
 took its name from its situation; for, in the old Armoric lan- 
 guage, Pul is a bottom, or a ditch, or a pool, and Dur is 
 water. The Armoric language is that of the Bretons in 
 France, and agrees much with the Cornish : it was probably 
 the language of the old inhabitants of this island. The Saxons 
 added Combe, which in their language signifies a bottom. 
 I thought fit to leave this memorandum to posterity, and refer 
 them to Lhuyd's Dictionary. In the oldest court-roll I have, 
 which was the sixteenth year of King Henry VI., I find it 
 entered Appuldurcombe, as above, and likewise in some of 
 the old ones since; but they often varied in the spelling of 
 it, not knowing from whence it was derived." Sir Robert 
 Worsley, it should here be observed, made considerable 
 collections for that History of the Isle of Wight, which was 
 ultimately compiled, and given to the public, by his son, Sir 
 Richard. To the last-mentioned, who was born at Appuldur- 
 combe, the island is indebted alike for the completion of the 
 literary undertaking, and of the family seat. He also formed 
 8. 
 
58 
 
 ILLUSTRATION'S OF 
 
 the fine collection of paintings and antiques for which the 
 house is celebrated; having for that purpose freighted a ship, 
 and engaged artists of talent to accompany him in his travels 
 through Italy, Spain, Greece, Egypt, Asia Minor, and Tartary. 
 Afterwards appeared the " Museum Worsleianum," a work 
 in two very handsome volumes, printed at his expense, and 
 containing descriptions, in English and Italian, of the products 
 of his researches, together with engravings. After filling the 
 offices of Colonel of the South Hants Militia, Member of 
 Parliament for Newport, Governor of the Island, and Comp- 
 troller of his Majesty's household, this gentleman died at his 
 birth-place, in the year 1805. His sister and heiress married 
 John Bridgeman Simpson, Esq. Member of Parliament for 
 Wenlock, Staffordshire; and the present noble occupant 
 having married their daughter, Henrietta, became by that 
 means the possessor of Appuldurcombe. 
 
 Whitwell, a small village, lies a little south of Appuldur- 
 combe. It is in reality only a chapelry to Godshill, but is 
 commonly accounted a parish, by reason of its distinct rates. 
 Its Church is formed from two ancient chapels, dedicated 
 respectively to our Lady of Whitwell, and to St. Radegund ; 
 the last-mentioned being at this time the chancel. De Estur, 
 one of the lords of Gatcombe, was the founder of this edifice. 
 
 On leaving Newport we shortly reached the pretty hamlet 
 of Shide, and thence proceeded nearly due south towards 
 Godshill. Had we adopted the eastern road, it would have 
 conducted us to Arreton, w T hich village, together with New- 
 church, and the objects in their vicinity, we will now describe. 
 
 The distance from Newport to Arreton is three miles. 
 The village itself straggles along the sides of the road for 
 about two miles, and consists almost entirely of the habitations 
 of the cultivators of the soil, the most fertile, perhaps, in the 
 Isle of Wight. South of the road stands an object of much 
 interest with many visitants; namely, the Collage of " The 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 59 
 
 Dairyman," whose " Daughter" has become of such celebrity, 
 through the record of her character and death given by the 
 Rev. Legh Richmond. That gentleman's descriptions of the. 
 localities of his different tales, are very faithful to the scenes 
 they describe. Speaking of his ride " to see the family at 
 their own home," he says : " As I approached the village 
 where the good old Dairyman dwelt, I observed him in a little 
 field, driving his cows before him toward a yard and hovel 
 which adjoined his cottage. I dismounted, and was conducted 
 through a neat little garden, part of which was shaded by two 
 large overspreading elm trees, to the house. — The little room 
 had two windows : a lovely prospect of hills, woods, and fields, 
 appeared through one ; the other was more than half obscured 
 by the branches of a vine which was trained across it; be- 
 tween its leaves the sun shone, and cast a cheerful light over 
 the whole place. ' This,' thought I, * is a fit residence for 
 piety, peace, and contentment.' " 
 
 The reverend author's mention of the Church, and of the 
 country he passed through on visiting it for the purpose of 
 solemnising the funeral rites of " Elizabeth," runs thus. 
 " As I travelled onward, — the first sound of a tolling bell 
 struck my ear. It proceeded from a village church in the 
 valley directly beneath the ridge of a high hill, over which I 
 had taken my way. It was Elizabeth's funeral knell ! The 
 scenery was in unison with that tranquil frame of mind which 
 is most suitable for holy meditation. A rich and fruitful valley 
 (that of Arret 'on and Newchurch) lay immediately beneath: 
 it was adorned with corn-fields and pastures, through which 
 a small river winded in a variety of directions, and many herds 
 grazed upon its banks.. A fine range of opposite hills, covered 
 with grazing flocks, terminated with a bold sweep into the 
 ocean, whose blue waves appeared at a distance beyona. 
 Several villages, hamlets, and churches, were scattered in the 
 valley. The noble mansions of the rich, and the lowly 
 
60 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 cottages of the poor, added their respective features to the 
 landscape. The air was mild, and the declining sun occasioned 
 a beautiful interchange of light and shade upon the sides of 
 the hills. 
 
 " The procession formed. — We at length arrived at the 
 Church. Looking upwards as I drew near the porch, I 
 observed a dial on the wall. The sun's declining rays directed 
 the shadow to the evening hour. As I passed underneath 
 this simple but solemn monitor, I was reminded of the lapse 
 of time, the uncertainty of life, and the sure approach of 
 eternity." 
 
 The " dial" spoken of is over the porch- door, which leads, 
 from the south side, into the body of the edifice. The church 
 is old, and has a heavy embattled tower at its west end. 
 Within is a handsome monument for the late Sir L. W. 
 Holmes, Bart. A stone in the more common cemetery, north 
 of the church, is inscribed with Elizabeth's memorial, as fol- 
 lows: — 
 
 €o t$e j^lemorg of 
 
 ELIZABETH WALLBRIDGE, 
 
 The Dairyman's Daughter, 
 Who died May 30, 1801, aged 31 years. 
 
 " She, being dead, yet speaketh." 
 
 Stranger ! if e'er by chance or feeling led, 
 Upon this hallowed turf thy footsteps tread, 
 Turn from the contemplation of the sod, 
 And think on her whose spirit rests with God. 
 Lowly her lot on earth— but He, who bore 
 Tidings of grace and blessings to the poor, 
 Gave her, his truth and faithfulness to prove, 
 The choicest treasures of His boundless love, — 
 (Faith, that dispell'd affliction's darkest gloom ; 
 Hope, that could cheer the passage to the tomb ; 
 Peace, that not hell's dark legions could destroy; 
 And Love, that fill'd the soul with heavenly joy.) 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 61 
 
 Death of its sting disarm'd, she knew no fear, 
 But tasted heaven e'en while she lingered here. 
 O, happy saint ! — may we, like thee, be blest — 
 In life be faithful, and in death find rest '. 
 
 The view of Arreton vale, and village, from the Down of 
 the same name, is one which no traveller can contemplate 
 without delight. It also comprehends more distant scenes of 
 beauty: and the down itself is made an object of interest to 
 the antiquary by two barrows of large size, as well as by the 
 discovery of several pieces of Roman armour which took place 
 here some years since. Stickzsorth, the secluded seat of 
 Robert Bell, Esq. is contiguous to the village. 
 
 Newcuurch, it has been remarked, is the parish church 
 to which the chapelry of Ryde is attached. It is an antique 
 structure, built in the form of a cross. Its site is commanding, 
 and the prospect from the cemetery beautiful. The only 
 sepulchral memorials of any consequence are those, within the 
 edifice, to various members of the ancient manorial family of 
 Diliington. 
 
62 
 
 5LLT7 •teat I o N$ 07 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 THE BACK OF THE ISLAND, 
 
 FROM SHANKLIN TO THE NEEDLES POINT. 
 
 The " Back of the Island," geographically speaking, com- 
 prehends that whole extent of rocky coast, which stretches 
 from the Foreland of the peninsula of Bembridge, east, to the 
 Needles, west. But we commence our route with Shanklin, 
 both because the principal objects between that village and 
 the Foreland have already come under mention, and because 
 all the more romantic features of this most singular and sur- 
 prising coast lie westward of the same spot. 
 
 We recommend all travellers, whose health and time will 
 permit, to walk from Appuldurcombe to the village of Shank- 
 lin : the lovers of nature, in her combined beauty and gran- 
 deur, can enjoy few finer treats, should the weather prove 
 propitious. Leaving the park attached to Lord Yarborough's 
 noble seat, we enter a luxuriant copse, crowned by a pre- 
 cipitous height, and an artificial ruin, on the right hand, and 
 commanding a succession of beautiful views to the left. As 
 the prospect in the last-mentioned direction opens, it becomes 
 truly magnificent, and comprehends, if we ascend the utmost 
 elevation of Shanklin Down, not only at least one half of the 
 Island, but the English Channel, the Solent, and the south 
 coast of England to a vast extent. We must make a detour 
 to gain the extreme elevation mentioned, which is nearly 800 
 feet above the level of the ocean ; but even if content with 
 the more moderate height afforded by the direct route, the 
 
TUS ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 views will be found to surpass description. Nothing can 
 exceed the variety and beauty of the inland scene, everywhere 
 rising into alternate swells and hollows, some of which are of 
 a grand character, while others constitute a succession of petty 
 undulations resembling the waves of the sea. The surface 
 equally alternates between the richest crops and brown or 
 flowering heath : while the blue Solent appears at every break 
 between the downs in the distance. In a deep dell on the left, 
 beneath the cliff along whose edge we are proceeding, two 
 cottages suddenly appear, neatly built of stone, and thatched, 
 standing in the midst of their productive, well-fenced gardens. 
 Humble as are these dwellings, their abrupt disclosure, 
 and romantic site, add much to the interest of the walk 
 at the point where they are situated. Soon after passing 
 them, we begin to descend towards Shanklin Church, a little 
 edifice of very primitive appearance, whose smallest windows 
 are not above eleven inches wide, and all whose larger ones 
 have evidently been inserted since the original building. A 
 church stood here before the time of Domesday Book, as is 
 seen from its mention in that venerable record, where it occurs 
 under the name of Sencliz. Properly, says Sir Richard 
 Worsley, it is a chapel annexed to the rectory of Bonchurch : 
 but it was formerly taken out of the parish of Brading, where 
 the inhabitants still bury their dead ; and a pension of ten 
 shillings is paid annually from the chapel to the rector of 
 Brading, as an acknowledgment to the mother church. The 
 chapel was built by one of the Lisles, and endowed with fifty 
 acres of land, together with the tithes of many tenants of the 
 manor. As to parochial assessments, it is considered a sepa- 
 rate parish. The old manor-house, now a farm, stands near 
 the church. 
 
 Shanklin village is much sheltered by the semi-circular 
 form of the lofty downs which nearly inclose it on two sides, 
 while at the same time it possesses sufficient elevation to enjey 
 
64 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 a fine view of Sandown Bay, and the ocean beyond. Here 
 are several lodging-houses, which the charming situation of 
 the place renders much frequented in the summer months. 
 The Hotel, with its cottage front, and parterres, and little 
 pleasure-ground, resembles the rustic seat of a private gentle- 
 man, rather than a house of public character. The road 
 separates these more artificial embellishments from its kitchen 
 garden, whose steep side overhangs the stream that runs to- 
 wards the celebrated Chine. Altogether, the spot is as se- 
 questered and rural, as though it were placed many miles 
 inland, instead of being in the immediate vicinity of the grandest 
 coast scenery, and close to that very remarkable and even 
 terrific fissure in the rocks just alluded to. 
 
 Before speaking of the principal attraction for the traveller 
 at Shanklin, it may be proper to notice that any considerable 
 chasm in the cliffs of the Island bears the provincial epithet of 
 a chine. Sir Richard Worsley says : " the term is applied to 
 the back -bone of an animal, both in the manege and culinary 
 language, which forms the highest ridge of the body. E chine, 
 in the French, is used in the same sense ; and Boyer has the 
 word chivfreneau for a great cut, or slash. Hence the word 
 chine might be thought peculiarly expressive of a high ridge 
 of land cleft abruptly down; and the several parts of the 
 southern coast, denominated chines, all correspond with this 
 description. A chine also appears to signify the same as a 
 chasm, and both to be derived from the Greek word Xa/»«, 
 hisco, or dehisco ; that is, to cleave asunder, so as to form a 
 chasm, or chine. It is well known that the X in the Greek 
 alphabet is always expressed in English by ch, and that it is 
 pronounced by the modern Greeks as our ch in church, 
 charity, &c. and perhaps it was so pronounced by the ancients." 
 It may be added, that as all the chines have the accompani- 
 ment of a small stream, running through them from the summit 
 of the cliffs down to the sea shore, it has been conjectured 
 
THE ISLR OS WIGHT. 65 
 
 that such water-courses were the primary cause of the forma- 
 tion of each. The idea is very probably correct : but it ought 
 not to be therefore inferred, that a water-course alone could 
 form such vast chasms as many of these chines are seen to be. 
 Landslips, to a great extent, must have aided in the work ; 
 the soil, it is reasonable to suppose, having been prepared for 
 such subsidences by the previous action of the stream. 
 
 The Chine at Shanklin is that best known, as it is certainly 
 the most remarkable, of any in the island. Our views, taken, 
 one from the beach, another from about half-way up the chasm, 
 and a third looking down the chine towards the sea, will con- 
 vey as correct general notions of it, perhaps, as can be given 
 by the hand of the engraver; but, to form just ideas of the 
 details, it is indispensable that the reader should see them 
 for himself. Meanwhile, we think, he can scarcely fail to be 
 interested by an extract from the Rev. Legh Richmond's 
 account of his visit to this celebrated spot, as given in his 
 " Young Cottager." 
 
 " In a widely sweeping curve of a beautiful bay,* there is a 
 kind of chasm, or opening, in one of the lofty cliffs which 
 bound it. This produces a very romantic and striking effect. 
 The steep descending sides of this opening in the cliff are 
 covered with trees, bushes, wild flowers, fern, wormwood, and 
 many other herbs, here and there contrasted with bold masses 
 of rock or brown earth. In the higher part of one of these 
 declivities, two or three picturesque cottages are fixed, and 
 seem half suspended in the air. From the upper extremity of 
 this great fissure, or opening in the cliff, a small stream of 
 water enters by a cascade, and flows through the bottom, 
 winding in a varied course of about a quarter of a mile 
 in length ; and then runs into the sea, across a smooth ex- 
 panse of firm hard sand, at the lower extremity of the chasm. 
 At this point, the sides of the woody banks are very lofty, and, 
 * Saudown Bay. 
 
 9. 
 
66 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 to a spectator from the bottom, exhibit a mixture of the grand 
 and beautiful not often exceeded. 
 
 " I walked up by a steep pathway, that winded through the 
 trees and shrubs on the side of one of the precipices. At 
 every step, the extent of prospect enlarged, and acquired a new 
 and varying character by being seen through the trees on each 
 side. Climbing up a kind of rude, inartificial set of stone stairs 
 in the bank, I passed by the singularly -situated cottages which 
 I had viewed from beneath, and arrived at the top of the pre- 
 cipice. From this point the abyss, occasioned by the great 
 fissure in the cliff, appeared grand and interesting. Trees 
 hung over it on each side, projecting not only their branches, 
 but many of their roots in wild and fantastic forms. Masses 
 of earth had recently fallen from the upper to the lower part 
 of the precipice, carrying trees and plants down the steep 
 descent. The character of the soil, and the unceasing influ- 
 ence of the stream at bottom, seemed to threaten further slips 
 of the land from the summit. From hence the gentle murmur 
 of the cascade at the head of the chine, stole upon the ear 
 without much interruption to the quietness of the scene. 
 Every object combined to please the eye, and direct the tra- 
 veller's heart to admire and love the Author and Creator of 
 all that is beautiful to sense, and edifying to the soul." 
 
 The stream which finds its way to the sea through the 
 chasm it has so greatly assisted in producing, rises in the 
 down beyond Shanklin, and, as it approaches the village, may 
 be tracked as it flows by the fine forest trees that line its 
 banks. Its course, just before it reaches the head of the chine, 
 is along a bed of stones, placed to prevent the further wear of 
 the sand-rock, and thence over a broad flat stone, supported 
 as a projecting ledge to increase the effect of the fall, the na- 
 tural descent of which is about thirty feet. The half-way view 
 from which the cascade is seen on the one hand, and, behind 
 and around, nothing but the precipitous winding sides of the 
 
X.Barber, lei. et sculp. 
 HEAD OF 
 
 nlan. rVVlished "by Sunjlean. 8c Macsiali. S catLoners Court 
 
p 
 
 y 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 67 
 
 abyss is picturesque beyond description, especially if the sua 
 aids the effect by throwing into alternate light and shade the 
 projections and recesses on one side, while the other wholly 
 sleeps in comparative gloom. Another striking effect, as no- 
 ticed by Mr. Richmond, is that produced by the mouth of the 
 chasm, when the spectator stands facing it on the shore. Here 
 the cliffs are about 280 feet high, and the width of the open- 
 ing at top is at least 300 feet. The desolate and barren aspect 
 of the rocks on the left offers a fine contrast to that of their 
 opposite neighbours, whose steeps are clothed with wood, and 
 broken by cottages and gardens, the latter well stocked w T ith 
 vegetables and fruit-trees, One of these cottages is the " Chine 
 Inn." At the foot of the cliff is the habitation of a fisherman, 
 to whom visitors are indebted for the path cut along the arid 
 rock to the summit of the chine, and who expects a small gra- 
 tuity from those who ascend the chasm by means of the 
 accommodation he has provided. 
 
 After sufficiently contemplating this scene, the spectator 
 has only to reverse his position in order to enjoy a beautiful 
 coast view, comprehending the entire extent of Sandown Bay, 
 whose extreme points are, on the right, the elevated promon- 
 tory called the Horse Lodge, and the more distant Culver 
 Cliffs on the left. Every circumstance adds to the pleasure 
 produced by this prospect. At our feet the little rivulet, 
 gently rippling over pebbles, is soon lost in the waters of the 
 mighty ocean. The murmuring of the waves, as the tide ebbs 
 or flows on the sand ; their dashing against the more distant 
 rocks, fantastically covered with sea- weed and shells ; the sea- 
 birds floating in the air aloft, or occasionally screaming from 
 their holes in the cliffs ; the hum of human voices in the ships 
 and boats, borne along the water ; all these (as Mr. Richmond 
 appositely remarked) serve to promote, rather than inter- 
 rupt meditation. They are soothingly blended together, and 
 enter the ear in a kind of natural harmony. 
 
 9 
 
68 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 The carriage road from Shanklin to Bonehurch ascends 
 windingly the promontory of Dunnose, and thence commands 
 a prospect of great beauty, though exceeded in extent by that 
 already noticed from the summit of Shanklin Down. Nearly 
 every step of this road presents views, which, for varied and 
 picturesque effect, are scarcely to be surpassed. Yet the 
 pedestrian, perhaps, will derive equal, if not superior satisfac- 
 tion from the foot-path to Bonehurch, which does not exceed 
 three miles in length, and lies partly through the fields, and 
 partly along one of the most singular and striking coasts ima- 
 ginable. By this route, too, we are conducted direct to Luc- 
 combe Chine, which otherwise the traveller must leave his 
 carriage, and descend a winding path, in order to inspect. 
 
 Ltjccombe lies under that lofty side of Wroxall Dozen 
 which fronts the ocean. Its Chine, to be duly appreciated, 
 should be visited before that of Shanklin, to which it is de- 
 cidedly inferior, though possessing a character of its own 
 which well entitles it to attention. " If," as is observed by a 
 contemporary tourist, " it has not the magnificence of Shank- 
 lin Chine, it is not wanting in beauty : its dark brown cliff, 
 with patches of green and hanging wood; its lofty trees, 
 which shade and adorn the deep ravine; its rushing water, 
 murmuring and falling to a fine shore, with the little cottages 
 adjacent, give it a most picturesque appearance." 
 
 We now enter upon the peculiar scenery of the Under- 
 cliff, that far and justly-famed tract, for the due observation 
 of which, at its eastern opening, the walk we have chosen 
 affords every facility. This tract is commonly said to com- 
 mence at East End; but having arrived at that spot, it is 
 plainly seen that the beginning of the landslips which have 
 occasioned all the remarkable features of this extraordinary 
 coast, is from a point on the farther side of Luccombe Cove. 
 From that point, the magnificent operations of Nature, pro- 
 ducing those remarkable features, extend to Black-gang Chine, 
 
TUB ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 69 
 
 a distance of from six to seven miles in length, by from a 
 quarter of a mile to a mile and a half in breadth. Such miles 
 are hardly to be paralleled ! This singular district, as Dr. 
 Clark (in his " Influence of Climate") accurately observed, 
 consists of a series of terraces, formed by fragments of rock, 
 chalk, and sandstone, which have been detached from the cliffs 
 and hills above, and deposited upon a substratum of blue marl. 
 The whole Undercliff is completely sheltered from the north, 
 north-east, north-west, and west winds, by the range of lofty 
 downs, or hills of chalk and sandstone, which rise boldly from 
 the upper termination of these ttrraces, in elevations varying 
 from four to six and seven hundred feet in height. Indeed, 
 the two extremities of the range are yet higher ; as St. Boni- 
 face Down, on the east, is 800 feet above the level of the 
 sea, and St. Catherine's Hill, on the west, nearly 900. The 
 protection afforded by this mountain barrier, is greatly in- 
 creased by the very singular and striking abruptness with 
 which it terminates on its southern aspect. This, in many 
 places, consists of the bare perpendicular rock of sandstone; 
 in others of chalk, assuming its characteristic rounded form, 
 covered with fine turf and underwood : but almost everywhere 
 the southern face of the hill is so steep, as to justify the appel- 
 lation of the beautiful tract which extends from its base to the 
 sea- shore. Yet, though low in position, as compared with it? 
 northern boundary, the Undercliff is still very considerably 
 elevated above the sea level, as its southern limit terminates, 
 on the margin of the waters, in a perpendicular cliff of from 
 sixty to one hundred feet in height along its whole extent. 
 The Undercliff may therefore be represented as a long natural 
 terrace, of lofty but unequal elevation, backed by a moun- 
 tainous wall on the north, and open on the south to the full 
 influence of the sun, from his rising to his going down, in that 
 season at least when his influence is most wanted in our 
 climate. 
 
70 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OK 
 
 From the singular position described, it only naturally re- 
 sults, that the change of temperature experienced in descending 
 from the exposure of the open and elevated downs to the shel- 
 ter of the Undercliff, is most complete ; though sometimes, to 
 those who do not consider its causes, not a little surprising. 
 It reminds the Italian traveller of his sensations on entering 
 the valley of Domo d'Ossola, after quitting the chilly defiles 
 of the Simplon. He feels at once that he has entered a new 
 climate; and the luxuriance of the vegetable tribes around 
 him, proves that the impression made on his senses is not de- 
 ceitful. Indeed, even during the colder months of the year, 
 the myrtle, geranium, and other exotic plants, here flourish in 
 the open air ; and that too in seasons when the severity of the 
 frost will destroy green-house plants on the north side of the 
 island, though placed in sheltered apartments. Lieutenant- 
 colonel Hewett, a close and accurate observer, who resided 
 for two years at St. Boniface, found the mean temperature of 
 the Undercliff, at 8 a. m., during the months of December, 
 January, and February, of the winters of 1827-8 and 1828-9, 
 to be 44° 5'; while that of Gosport, one of the warmest spots 
 on the south coast, was 42° 5', and that of Chichester only 
 41°: and that during the first three months of 1828, the mean 
 temperature here, at 8 a. m., was 45° 4', while that of Gos- 
 port was 43° 7', of Chichester 42° 5', and of London 41° 5'. 
 From these observations, Dr. Clark deduces the important in- 
 ference, that the climate of the Undercliff is one of the 
 warmest in England, if not the very warmest. " I have cer- 
 tainly seen nothing along the south coast," he adds, " that 
 will bear a comparison with it; and Torquay is, I apprehend, 
 the only place on the south-west coast which will do so." But, 
 " with a temperature nearly the same, the climate of Torquay 
 will be found softer, more humid, and relaxing; while that of 
 the Undercliff will prove drier, somewhat sharper, and more 
 bracing." Elsewhere he remarks: "indeed, it is matter of 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT, 
 
 71 
 
 surprise to me, after having fully examined this favoured spot, 
 that the advantages it possesses in so eminent a degree, in 
 point of shelter and exposition, should have been so long over- 
 looked in a country like this, whose inhabitants, during the 
 last century, have been traversing half the globe in search of 
 climate. The physical structure of this singular district has 
 been carefully investigated and described by the geologist, and 
 the beauties of its scenery have been often dwelt upon by the 
 tourist; but its far more important qualities as a winter resi- 
 dence for the delicate invalid, seem scarcely to have attracted 
 attention, even from the medical philosopher." 
 
 The observations of the Doctor which contain hints for the 
 improvement of the UnderclifF, are also well worthy attention. 
 With all its natural advantages, as he well observes, its ac- 
 commodations are at present few; though numerous spots 
 present themselves, along this beautiful district, admirably 
 suited for residences. " On these, detached houses might be 
 built ; and if the protection of a garden-wall and a few trees, 
 where they do not already exist, were added, the natural ad- 
 vantages of the place would be increased, and a sheltered 
 walk secured during the most stormy weather. If any thing 
 in the form of a town is attempted, the beauty of the place, 
 as well as the advantages as a residence for invalids, will be 
 greatly diminished. If, on the other hand, the plan which I 
 have suggested (and to which the place lends itself in a re- 
 markable manner) of building single houses, each surrounded 
 w T ith its garden, is judiciously adopted, and the houses erected 
 with due regard to the wants of delicate invalids, the Under- 
 clifF bids fair to excel all other winter residences in this coun- 
 try, and the Isle of Wight will have added to its title of the 
 Garden of England, that of the British Madeira." 
 
 We may here in conclusion repeat, that all the peculiar ap- 
 pearances of the UnderclifF, and very much of the wild and 
 singular kind of beauty it possesses, are attributable to the 
 
72 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 landslips already alluded to, and which are still frequently 
 occurring on a larger or smaller scale. One of these slips 
 took place at East End, in the year 1810, which was tne 
 means of destroying 30 acres of ground; and another in 1818, 
 which carried away 50 acres. But the grand subsidence that 
 produced the terrace of the Undercliff, taken as a whole, must 
 have happened many centuries back; since churches have 
 occupied portions of its site during that long period, and yet 
 remain unharmed, save by the silent influences of time and the 
 elements. As to the cause of the landslips themselves, it is sup- 
 posed to be no more than this. The marley substratum on 
 which the rocks repose, becomes gradually so saturated with 
 the springs which exist in abundance at this part of the coast, 
 that it is pressed out by the incumbent weight, and washed 
 away by the successive returns of the tide ; when the cliffs, 
 deprived of support, take the place of the soil which preceded 
 them, and there remain, forming a new or under-cliffy which, 
 being capable of resisting the waves, forms an outer defence 
 against them through future ages. Such causes, attended 
 with such effects, may possibly exist elsewhere; but in no 
 case, it may well be imagined, can they have combined to 
 produce such an union of beauty with grandeur as is here ex- 
 hibited. The most charming wooded retirements, the most 
 secluded and romantic dells, are here found in close contiguity 
 with sea views of glorious extent, and inland rocks and hills 
 of the most magnificent and towering forms ; while the rustic 
 church, the embosomed village, the tasteful cottage, or the 
 elegant seat, are perpetually meeting the eye, along with the 
 cultured field, the wildly flowing stream, or the peasant's 
 abode encircled by its literally ever-green garden. To objects 
 such as these, it must be impossible for any description to do 
 justice: nevertheless, our plan permits of no alternative to 
 the attempt, and we therefore once more entreat the reader to 
 be present with us in imagination at East End. 
 
THE ISLB OF WIGHT. 
 
 7a 
 
 This place is one wide scene of broken, piled, strewn, and 
 confused rocks, occurring in every possible variety of altitude, 
 position, and form. For exhibiting the most striking effects of 
 a land-slip on this coast, no part of the UnderclifF could be 
 better chosen. Indeed, though the masses of broken rock are 
 inferior in magnitude to those at the western extremity, called 
 Rocken End, where the impending cliffs are also more impo- 
 sing, there is a character of extreme wildness about East End, 
 which is approached by nothing else in the island. 
 
 From this spot we proceed along the base of St. Boniface 
 Down, a vast hill of chalk, scantily covered with verdure, parts 
 of whose sides are exceedingly precipitous. On one of its 
 steepest slopes, near the top, is a small spring, much venerated 
 by the country people under the name of St. Boniface Well. 
 A spring at so great a height is considered a natural pheno- 
 menon. It is accessible only by a rough path, or rather rude 
 flight of steps, which the devotees of the Well have worn in 
 the turf by their approaches to it. 
 
 All our praises of the scenery of the Undercliff will appear 
 justified in the eyes of the traveller, if he but pauses to survey 
 the vale of Bonchurch just before the road begins to descend 
 into it. Several miles of the surface of this extraordinary spot, 
 with the grand line of chalk rock which forms its northern 
 boundary, lie stretched before him. His gratification will be 
 increased, if, instead of immediately descending, he quits the 
 road, and takes the base of the cliff to the Pulpit Rock, an 
 advanced crag so called from a wooden cross placed on its sum- 
 mit, from which a prospect as extensive as beautiful is com- 
 manded. Then, returning to the road, he should follow its 
 steep descent and its windings, until they conduct him to the 
 most secluded part of the romantic dell, where, on the left, rises 
 a gigantic ridge of the fallen rock, the space between which 
 and the upper cliff forms this lovely valley. The ridge is dis- 
 tinguished by a platform and flag- staff by ascending to which 
 10. 
 
74 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 he will gain another glorious view. The medley of objects is 
 what here chiefly characterises the scene, though that word 
 is ill adapted either to its beauty or grandeur. One writer 
 sums them up under the terms of " barren rocks, and prolific 
 earths ; elevated cliffs, broken masses, and precipitous descents ; 
 an expanded sea, a winding rivulet, and a miniature fen ; un- 
 cultivated wastes, and fruitful patches ; the wild flower- dell, 
 and the rich parterre; the peasant's hut, the farmer's yard, 
 and the adorned villa ;" the whole " mingled and adjusted with 
 the elegance of taste, and the apparent carelessness of Nature." 
 
 The seat of W. H. Surman, Esq., called East Dean, stands 
 near the church, fronting the English channel. Its style is 
 rustic, with some mixture of the antique, with which latter 
 feature the interior is fitted up to correspond. 
 
 The Church, like the village, takes its name from St. Boni- 
 face ; " Bonchurch" being only a contraction from " St. Boni- 
 face Church." Its situation is yet nearer the sea than Mr. 
 Surman's residence ; and it stands on the same steep declivity 
 that leads down to it. Shaded by reverend elm-trees, and 
 affording some indications of Norman architecture, it is a little 
 edifice that cannot be viewed without interest. The parts that 
 wear the most decided aspect of antiquity, are the plain semi- 
 circular arch between the body and chancel, and the inner 
 door- way of the south porch, which is also semicircular, and 
 its mouldings decorated, where perfect, with the embattled fret 
 and chevron ornaments. In these we trace such relics of the 
 Norman age, as have probably suffered no change, but from 
 the hand of time, since the first erection of the building, which 
 is supposed to have taken place shortly subsequent to the Con- 
 quest. The windows, though of small dimensions, have either 
 plain-pointed or trefoiled heads, and, no doubt, therefore, are 
 of later date. A large oaken cross is placed within the east 
 window, and forms a conspicuous addition to the communiuu- 
 place. 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 75 
 
 At Bonchurch was born one of the heroes of the British 
 navy. In the reign of Queen Anne, an orphan boy of this 
 village, named Hobson, was apprenticed by the parish to a 
 tailor at a place called Niton, about seven miles distant. 
 While seated one day on his master's shop-board, a squadron 
 of our men of war was seen passing ; and young Hobson, in 
 common with nearly all the rest of the inhabitants, ran down 
 to the beach to view the spectacle. In a moment of enthusiasm 
 he jumped into a boat, rowed towards the squadron, and, hav- 
 ing reached the admiral's ship, was received on board as a 
 volunteer : whereupon he cast the boat adrift, and that having 
 been picked up a few days afterwards, while his hat, which 
 in his hurry he had left behind him, was found upon the shore, 
 the impression that he had met with a watery grave was enter- 
 tained by all on land who had known him. But the youth was 
 now upon the element, and in the line of life, that exactly 
 accorded with the native bias of his mind ; and the very next 
 day was destined to exhibit him in his true character. The 
 squadron fell in with a French fleet; an engagement took place, 
 in which, for some time, the victory appeared doubtful ; and 
 Hobson, after bearing a cheerful share in two hours' hard fight- 
 ing, began to grow impatient, and asked of a sailor near him 
 for what object the two fleets were contending. Being told 
 that the action must last till the white rag at the enemy's mast- 
 head was struck, he exclaimed, " Oh ! if that's all, I'll see what 
 I can do." At this moment the ships of the two admirals 
 were engaged yard-arm and yard-arm, and both obscured in 
 smoke. Our young hero, noticing the latter circumstance, was 
 seized with the extraordinary resolution to attempt hauling 
 down the enemy's flag with his own hands ! Accordingly, he 
 climbed the shrouds, walked across the main-yard, and unper- 
 ceived gained that of the French admiral; when, mounting 
 with the utmost celerity to the main-top-gallant-mast head, 
 he seized the flag, and returned with it to his own ship. The 
 
76 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 disappearance of the flag was soon noticed : the British tars 
 shouted " Victory!" the French crew were thrown into confu- 
 sion, and forsook their guns : and, before their officers could 
 succeed in their attempts to rally them, the English sailors 
 boarded, and became triumphant. At this juncture Hobson 
 descended to the main-deck from the shrouds, with the French 
 flag wound round his arm, to the astonishment of all who be- 
 held him. He was ordered to the quarter-deck, where some 
 of the officers seemed disposed to view with more indignation 
 than applause this very irregular method of " striking the 
 flag." But the admiral, entertaining different notions of the 
 exploit, immediately promoted its author, who, favoured by 
 such an opening, rose rapidly in his profession ; while none of 
 those who had known the poor 'prentice-boy at Niton, had an 
 idea that they could claim acquaintance with the gallant hero 
 who was at length become so celebrated as Admiral Hobson. 
 One day, however, soon after that admiral had received the 
 honour of knighthood, with other more substantial marks of 
 favour, from his sovereign, a party of naval officers appeared 
 in the village in which the tailor and his wife still resided. 
 They stopped at the humble door of the hero's former residence, 
 and, to the astonishment of its inmates, requested to be ac- 
 commodated with such plain fare as could in a short time be 
 prepared for them. All objections were over-ruled; and though 
 nothing more luxurious than bacon and eggs could be obtained, 
 to a dish of those viands they sat down, inviting their hosts to 
 partake not only of the repast, but of some wine they had taken 
 care to have conveyed with them. Under the influence of the 
 generous beverage, the conversation soon grew animated on 
 all sides : particularly as regarded the chief of the party, who, 
 addressing himself principally to the tailor's wife, endeavoured, 
 by every indirect means he could devise, to recal her recollec- 
 tion of himself. Failing in every attempt, he at last began a 
 verse of a ballad that had been often sung in her hearing by 
 
THIS ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 77 
 
 the graceless apprentice -lad. " For all the world like our poor 
 Hobby!" she then exclaimed, the tears rising to her eyes; 
 while the admiral (for he, of course, it was) became scarcely 
 less affected. The rest may be conceived untold. All was at 
 once astonishment and joy; and the gallant sailor did not 
 quit his worthy entertainers, it may be supposed, without leav- 
 ing them very handsome tokens whereby in future to remem- 
 ber their ci-devant apprentice, Admiral Hobson. 
 
 St. Boniface Cottage, the property of Charles Popham Hill, 
 Esq., is our next object of attention. Standing at the foot of 
 the mountain-down from which it takes name, and embosomed 
 in lofty trees and other marks of luxuriant vegetation, while 
 the fine scenery of the coast is not excluded, this residence 
 may rank with the most happily situated in this quarter of the 
 island. 
 
 The western extremity of the down is approached as we 
 reach Ventnor, where there are two houses of entertainment; 
 of one of which the traveller should avail himself, unless his 
 intention be to proceed without stopping to Niton. The first 
 arrived at, the " Crab and Lobster," is small, but in a fine 
 situation. The other is the " Ventnor Hotel," the view from 
 which is enchanting. The scenery at Ventnor Cove is uni- 
 versally admired: a short walk from either of the inns will 
 place it within the visitor's observation. Among the variety 
 of picturesque features here, are the bold eminence of the 
 down ; the cliff, crowned by a corn-mill, and the little stream 
 that tumbles to the shore after working the mill; the fine 
 open beach ; and, though last, not least in pleasing effect, the 
 habitations of the fishermen, with whom the cove is a favourite 
 residence. 
 
 The village of Steephill is about a mile from that of 
 Ventnor. It may be placed after Bonchurch in point of 
 romantic character. Formerly it was much celebrated for a 
 cottage-villa, the property of the late Earl Dysart, which, 
 
78 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 placed on a lofty terrace to the right of the road, backed by 
 the bold Uppercliff, and judiciously screened by noble trees, at 
 once possessed all the advantages of commanding prospects 
 and the most strict seclusion. All the natural beauties of the 
 situation remain ; and, in additition to them, Steephill, as the 
 seat was called, from a cottage has become a castle, having 
 been entirely rebuilt by its present possessor, John Ham- 
 borough, esq. Its appearance, when near, is not quite equal 
 perhaps to what was intended ; but, from several more distant 
 points of view, the effect is imposing, and, as will be seen 
 from the engraving, adds a grand feature to the native mag- 
 nificence of the spot. The prospect from the summit of the 
 present structure must be seen to be appreciated : the open 
 channel in front, and the tract of country in the direction of 
 St. Lawrence, are what will chiefly elicit admiration. 
 
 Other attractive objects at hand, are a cascade, formed by 
 the artificial union of two springs running towards the cliff ; 
 and a cave in the cliff itself, reached by some steps cut in the 
 rock, that will repay the slight trouble of the access by the 
 fine view of the shore obtained from it. 
 
 By proceeding along the edge of the cliff for a trifling dis- 
 tance, the tourist will arrive at a station of the preventive 
 service ; and then at a small platform of artillery, which forms 
 the seaward boundary of Lord Yarborough's grounds, attached 
 to his elegant marine Villa at St. Lawrence. The late Sir 
 Richard Worsley fitted up this villa in a style worthy of his 
 refined taste, and adorned it with a gateway, by Inigo 
 Jones, brought from Hampton Court; a pavilion, designed 
 from the temple of Minerva at Athens ; a little temple, called 
 the seat of Virgil, ornamented with a bust of that poet ; 
 and a Grecian green-house, copied from the temple of Nep- 
 tune at Corinth. Of these, the pavilion and green-house only 
 remain ; and most of the pieces of virtu formerly collected 
 here are now at Appuldurcombe. The grounds are not exten- 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 79 
 
 give, but are laid out with much taste, and with a judicious 
 care to take all possible advantage of the picturesquely-varying 
 surface. 
 
 The village of St. Lawrence is only a continuation of the 
 romantic beauties that adorn Steephill. The Church is almost 
 unique with regard to size, being, with one exception, the 
 smallest edifice of its kind in Great Britain. Its dimensions 
 are, length, 20 feet ; width, 12 feet ; height, to the eaves, 6 feet. 
 But it should be noticed that the ground, externally, is some- 
 what raised around the building. The smallness of the struc- 
 ture is perhaps one chief evidence of its antiquity ; and it is 
 far from improbable that the walls, in great part, are of the 
 Saxon era, though all the arches for windows cut in them are 
 of much more recent date. Within, at the east-end, is a 
 transparency of the resurrection of Christ, in a stained-glass 
 frame. 
 
 The route may now be varied to advantage by an ascent 
 to the upper cliff, an opportunity for doing which, without 
 much fatigue, is afforded soon after quitting St. Lawrence. 
 From this elevation we may enjoy, as we proceed, an uninter- 
 rupted view of the sea ; while, between that object and our 
 path, the Undercliff, with all its rock varieties, delightful seats, 
 and rustic embellishments, will lie far below, indeed, but not 
 at too great a distance for perfect observation. Very shortly 
 we perceive Old Park, the residence of Thomas Haddon, esq., 
 and trace, as in a map, all the details of its grounds, inter- 
 spersed with masses of the fallen rock, and varied by a dairy, 
 corn-mill, and bathing-house. 
 
 Mirablcs is next seen, — the charming seat of Mrs. Arnold. 
 Massive fragments of rock, and green plantations, occupy the 
 space between us and the house, whose front is to the sea, 
 looking upon the mighty element from a terrace, led up to by 
 a sharp but undulating ascent from the shore. All the accom- 
 paniments of this residence are of the most attractive character. 
 
80 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 From that part of the cliff at which we are viewing them, a 
 young female was blown over into the depth below, by a sud^ 
 den gust of wind, in the summer of the year 1831. Wonder- 
 ful to relate, she escaped unhurt, through alighting upon some 
 underwood; the only inconvenience to her, (besides the 
 fright), being that she then pursued her walk to Niton by the 
 base of the cliff, instead of along its brow. 
 
 Orchard Cottage^ the property of General Sir Willoughby 
 Gordon, now appears ; but to view it, with some other seats 
 in the neighbourhood, to more advantage, we must descend by 
 Cripple Path, a way cut by steps in the side of the cliff, and 
 affording seats about half-way down, composed of projecting 
 ledges of the rock, which, though of Nature's forming, are 
 almost artificial in their aspect. Having regained the road, we 
 cannot notice without admiration the stupendous precipices 
 over head ; and must regard with surprise the diminutive 
 figures of such persons as may be walking along the top, or 
 descending by the path we lately occupied. " The Orchard," 
 as the villa just mentioned is sometimes called, may now be 
 more nearly inspected. It is of irregular, but picturesque form ; 
 built with a mixture of brick and the stone of the country ; and 
 decorated in front with a choice variety of flowers, evergreens, 
 and fruit-trees, all luxuriating upon a succession of terraces, 
 formed by artificial improvements of the natural surface. 
 
 On the right, opposite the Orchard, stands Beauchamp, a 
 small villa, the property of Mrs. Bennett, of Northcourt. 
 
 Near Puckaster Cove, on the left, is the very pleasing cottage 
 of James Vine, esq. It presents a semi- circular front, of 
 rustic character, to the ocean ; and is backed by two vast 
 fragments of rocks, precipitated from the cliff above in a long 
 past age. At Puckaster, Charles II. landed, July 1, 1675, 
 after encountering a dangerous storm at sea ; an event duly 
 recorded in the parish register of Niton. 
 
 In the direction of Niton village stands West-Cliff House, 
 
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THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 81 
 
 the handsome residence of Robert Holford, Esq, We will 
 now suppose that we had reached that village by pursuing the 
 path on the cliff, and will take this opportunity to describe it. 
 
 Niton stands nearly a mile from the shore, in a very se 
 eluded situation, at the south-eastern foot of St. Catherine's 
 Hill. It is sometimes styled Crab Niton, from the number of 
 fish of that species found on the adjacent coast. Two little 
 streets of neat, thatched, stone dwellings, with orchards gene- 
 rally attached, form this village of small importance, but, 
 doubtless, of considerable antiquity. It has a comfortable inn 
 The Church, consisting of two aisles, with a tower and spire 
 was one of those given by Fitz- Osborne to his abbey of Lyra, 
 It passed to the crown at the dissolution of religious houses 
 and, together with five churches in Hampshire, was given to 
 Queen's College, Oxford, by Charles I., in exchange for the 
 college plate — an article of more utility to the monarch, in 
 the then position of his affairs, than even a larger number of 
 ecclesiastical benefices. The vicarage of Godshill, with its 
 chapelry of Whitwell, is attached to this living. In the 
 grave-yard is the basement of an ancient cross, an ornament 
 which no cemetery was without in the catholic ages. 
 
 Returning on our track, we shall next reach the Sand-Rock 
 Hotel, whose site is truly delightful, and whose appearance, 
 as in the case of several houses of a similar description upon 
 this coast, is rather that of a gentleman's seat than an hotel. 
 The accompanying view will fully justify this remark. The 
 seaward look-out is peculiarly bold, from the position of the 
 house near the southern point of the island, and the extent 
 of the prospect thereby commanded. 
 
 A road has been formed of late years from the hotel to the 
 Sand-Rock Spring ; proceeding by which we shall first notice 
 Mount Cleves, a modern-built residence, the property of John 
 Mortimer, Esq. We may then survey the results of the 
 great landslip in February, 1799, by which nearly one hun- 
 11. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 dred acres of the cliff were separated from the general mass, 
 and carried towards the sea, breaking in their progress into 
 terrific chasms, causing the destruction of a cottage, and 
 leaving all around the traces of devastation and confusion. 
 The wild disorder and imposing forms of the rocks here irre- 
 sistibly fix the attention : on every side their aspects are at 
 once savage and commanding. The pretty cottage connected 
 with the Spring soon appears, and we descend from it to the 
 source of the chalybeate, which is in the cliff, about 500 
 yards from the shore, and 150 feet above the level of the sea. 
 The cottage itself is a dispensary, established by Mr. Water- 
 worth, a surgeon of Newport, who discovered the spring in 
 1808, and erected the building which now encloses it in the 
 following year. In a letter on the properties of the water, 
 the discoverer says : " this aluminous chalybeate, on examina- 
 tion, not only by the taste, but also by the application of 
 chemical tests, was found to contain sulphat of iron and sul- 
 phat of alumine, substances which, though rarely met with in 
 combination with water, yet exist in this in such large pro- 
 portions as to give it a very distinguishing character." Hence, 
 " it possesses the properties of a tonic of the most powerful 
 kind," and " has been found singularly efficacious in the cure 
 of many very important and dangerous diseases, particularly 
 those termed asthenic, arising from a relaxed fibre and languid 
 circulation, such as indigestion, weakness of stomach, loss of 
 appetite, tremblings, with all the varieties of nervous and 
 hypochondriacal disorders," &c. &c. The descent from the 
 spring towards the shore is by a rude and precipitous path cut 
 in the cliff; on reaching the bottom of which we are anew 
 struck with the extreme wildness of the scene, to which a 
 considerable landslip, that took place in the winter of 1832-33, 
 is seen to have contributed its share. 
 
 Pursuing a scarcely perceptible path which threads this 
 wilderness of mighty fragments, we reach Rocken-End, the 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 83 
 
 termination of the Undercliff in this direction, and comprising 
 some of its most majestic features. Here the boundary of the 
 rocks is not circumscribed by the common line of the coast, 
 but extends far into the sea, where the vast masses form what 
 is called Rocken-End Race, and have probably lain from the 
 time of the grand convulsion that at once severed them from 
 the mainland, and laid the terrace of the Undercliff where it 
 now reposes. Nor are these the only rocks which, visible only 
 at low water, threaten destruction to vessels overtaken by 
 tempestuous weather near this coast. Not far westward lie 
 the dangerous ledges, known, from the places to which they 
 are nearest, by the names of Atherfield, Chilton, and Brooke; 
 the proximity of either of which, in untoward circumstances 
 is sufficient to dismay the heart of the stoutest mariner. 
 
 The engravings will give the reader a better idea of Black- 
 gang Chine, the object to which the path from the Spring 
 conducts us, than could be conveyed by the most luminous 
 description. Traces of recent landslips were perpetually 
 occurring as we trod this path early in the year 1833; and 
 the Chine itself seemed to give evidence of a landslip upon a 
 large scale, as having greatly assisted in its formation. This 
 was especially apparent in the semicircular chasm, seventy- 
 five feet in depth, into which the stream from the hill above 
 now falls, and which clearly appears to have been shaped by 
 the violent disruption of immense masses of the cliff from its 
 sides. The wild ravine that ascends from the summit of the 
 chasm, seems, on the contrary, to have been chiefly moulded by 
 the action of the stream, which, after continued rains, becomes 
 a torrent, and rolls with impetuous force over the verge of 
 the cliff to the beach below. The whole aspect of this Chine is 
 grand, but gloomy : it has neither the beauties of Shanklin, nor 
 the comparative prettiness of Luccombe : savage sublimity is 
 its characteristic. Portions of its steep sides are little less 
 than five hundred feet in height: every part is without a 
 
84 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 feature of vegetation ; and the almost universal colour of the 
 faces of the cloven sand -rocks so nearly approaches black, that 
 it is supposed to have derived its name from that circumstance 
 as a prefix to the Saxon gauge, which signified any opening 
 or way in a cliff to the sea shore. More romantic etymolo- 
 gists, however, have favoured us with a very different deri- 
 vation; assuring us that a gang of notorious robbers and 
 pirates once made this place their haunt, and, issuing there- 
 from for the performance of every possible atrocity, the term 
 black became a very proper appellative both for them, and the 
 deeds by which they acquired their bad celebrity. From the 
 summit of the Chine we have a noble prospect of the whole 
 line of coast westward, including Chale, Brixton, and Fresh- 
 water Bays; the towering cliffs of Freshwater; the Needles 
 Rocks; and the coast of Dorsetshire in the extreme distance. 
 The descent to the beach presents no difficulties, and is worth 
 performing in order to have a view of the Chine as it appears 
 from thence. The beach is composed of small stones and 
 pebbles, some of which are worn to an exceedingly minute 
 size by the action of the waves, and their consequent mutual 
 attrition. They are the residuum of the natural soil, which 
 is a fine earth, or sand, enclosing them in their original state, 
 but long since washed away by the waters. 
 
 The traveller's carriage is supposed to have proceeded empty 
 from the Sand-rock Hotel to Chale, at which village half a 
 miles' walk from the Chine will enable him to rejoin it. Or, 
 if he has returned to the Spring, he may continue his pedes- 
 trian excursion over the cliff, and by the preventive look-out, 
 crossing the stream which runs into Black-gang Chine near 
 its source, and enjoying the aspects of the ocean, and the 
 grand objects all around. This too is his opportunity for 
 ascending to the top of St. Catherine's Hill, the most elevated 
 point of the Island, the prospect from which, when the weather 
 is favourable, is "infinitely rich, and almost unbounded-" 
 
THE ISLK OF WIGHT. 
 
 85 
 
 indeed, it takes in the whole circuit of the Wight, except in a 
 single direction, where the view is broken by the Brixton 
 Downs. On a clear day, even the highest part of the French 
 coast, adjoining Cherbourg, may be sometimes perceived; 
 while, to the west, the isles of Portland and Purbeck are 
 plainly distinguishable. The Hampshire coast, near Lyming- 
 ton, appears almost to unite with the Island, the intervening 
 Solent being scarcely seen. As the eye ranges to the north 
 and west, the New Forest, Southampton Water, Portsdown 
 Hill, the Sussex hills, and Beachy Head, beyond Brighton, are 
 successively visible. 
 
 The Chine we lately described, is a fissure in the south 
 side of this stupendous hill. Its extreme height is nearly nine 
 hundred feet above the level of the sea. Originally, it was 
 called Chale Down; the appellation of St. Catherine's having 
 been bestowed on it from the circumstances thus narrated by 
 Sir Richard Worsley. In the year 1323, Walter de Godyton 
 built a chapel here, and dedicated it to St. Catherine, assign- 
 ing certain rents for a chantry priest to sing mass, and also to 
 provide lights for the safety of such vessels as might chance 
 to come on this dangerous coast during the night. At the 
 dissolution of chantries, it was perhaps found impracticable 
 to divide the useful from the superstitious part of the insti- 
 tution; so that the whole fell together, the chantry involving 
 the lighthouse in its ruin. By an entry in the registers of 
 the diocese, it appears that, eleven years before the erection 
 of this chapel, there was a hermitage standing on the same 
 spot : the entry is as follows : " Walter de Langstrell ad- 
 missus ad hermitorium supra mortem de Chale, in insula 
 Vectis, Id. Octobris, A.D. 1312." St. Catherine's Tower 
 on the summit of the down, is a remain of the ancient religious 
 institution, having been substantially repaired by the lord of 
 the manor, in consideration of its essential service as a land- 
 mark. It is of octangular form, finished pyramidically at top ; 
 
86 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 its height thirty-five feet and a half. On its reparation, 
 says Sir Richard Worsley, " the foundation of the whole 
 chapel was also cleared and levelled ; by which, not only its 
 figure was discovered, but also the floor and stone hearth of 
 the priest's little cell at the south-west corner." In addition 
 to the tower, a light-house was erected here a few years back ; 
 but the idea of rendering it serviceable by night is now 
 abandoned, the mists by which the hill is so frequently ob- 
 scured having been found to render it useless. 
 
 The northern slope of the down is graced by a seat, the 
 property of John Barlow Hoy, Esq., called Medina Hermitage, 
 the prospect from which is exceedingly rich and extensive. 
 Immediately above the house, on the commanding brow of 
 the hill, appears a column, seventy-two feet in height, erected 
 by the late Michael Hoy, Esq., and bearing the following 
 inscription : 
 
 In commemoration of the visit of his Imperial Majesty, 
 Alexander I, Emperor of all the Russias, to Great Britain, 
 in the year 1814, and in remembrance of many happy years'* 
 residence in his dominions, this pillar zcas erected by Michael 
 Hoy. 
 
 The situation of the column renders it a conspicuous object 
 from a very large proportion of the Island. 
 
 Having reached Chale, a neat but straggling village, our 
 attention is attracted by its Church, an edifice of the time of 
 Henry I., having been built by Hugh Vernon in that reign, 
 and still retaining some characteristics of its period. The 
 tower, which is handsome, and bears some resemblance to that 
 of Carisbrooke, appears with its original small, and pointed, 
 or trefoil-headed openings. At its north-east angle is a turret, 
 containing the stairs, lighted by slits and quatrefoils. All the 
 other windows in the building appear, from their dimensions, 
 to have been introduced since its first completion. The arches 
 of the interior, between the body and aisle, are pointed; the 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 87 
 
 columns, supporting them, very squat, being only about 3 feet 
 10 inches high, although 3 feet 3 inches in circumference : 
 these, perhaps, afford the best evidence of the correctness of 
 the date ascribed to the structure. A small piscina may be 
 noticed in the south wall. 
 
 The eastern end of Chale Farm affords a rather curious 
 relic of ancient domestic architecture. 
 
 The road to Brixton (which has been described) is without 
 interest: but the Bay named from that village, and Chale 
 Bag, with some other features of the coast, deserve remark. 
 Brixton rocks are highly dangerous to shipping : they lie 
 about midway between Black-gang Chine and Freshwater 
 Gate. The cliffs, both eastward and westward, are broken 
 by a number of chines on an inferior scale ; of which, Walpen, 
 Whale, Cowledge, Shipledge, Barnes, Grange, Chilton, 
 Brooke, and Compton, are the principal. Jackmaii's Chine 
 may be said to lead down from Brixton village to the shore. 
 Barnes Hole is a remarkable cavern, of extraordinary height, 
 and most gloomy aspect. Another cave, near Grange Chine, 
 is called Dutchman's Hole, from a large ship of that nation 
 that ran into it. The rocks about Chale Bay have proved 
 fatal to a great number of vessels ; among the rest to a Dutch 
 galliot, the " Diana Jans," which was totally wrecked upon 
 them in February, 1830: the crew, however, were saved by 
 a feat of daring performed by one of the sailors, who swam 
 ashore with a rope, and by that means established a commu- 
 nication between the land and his despairing comrades. 
 
 From Brixton to Mottistone, two miles. This village is 
 very pleasantly situated, both as regards its marine and inland 
 prospects. On the down that overlooks it, is a relic of very 
 early times, called Long-stone, being a rude mass of the 
 hardest stone of the country, tw« lve feet high, placed on end 
 by art, and entirely of the character of those unwrought 
 remains which antiquaries in general have agreed to consider 
 
 v 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 as Druidical. Near it lies a similar but smaller mass, in a 
 horizontal position, and partly buried in the earth. From the 
 apparent disconnexion of these stones with any greater number 
 of the same kind, we are not disposed to view them as having 
 been placed here for any ecclesiastical purpose; more espe- 
 cially as Mottistone, which seems to have taken name from 
 the larger fragment, approaches very nearly to a compound 
 Saxon word, which, in modern English, would signify the 
 stone at which the iolk-motes, or meetings of the people, 
 were frequently held in old times. The Long- stone might 
 have been of unknown antiquity, and held in veneration 
 for that reason, even at the period when custom prescribed 
 the holding of such meetings at it : the practice of rearing 
 such rude monuments having been among the primeval 
 habits of man, and one that may be traced to ages anterior to 
 that of the Hebrew patriarchs. Furrowed by the elements, 
 and tinted by the varying dyes which untold centuries have 
 impressed upon it, this stone forcibly " recals to memory those 
 times, to which neither our calculation nor our history can 
 ever attain." 
 
 Mottistone Church consists of a body, tower, chancel, and 
 aisle ; of which the two former appear the oldest portions, and 
 were probably erected before the reign of Edward IV., in 
 whose time the aisle was perhaps built as a chancel. This 
 supposition is derived from the form of the pointed window 
 at the east end of that aisle, as well as from the carved rose 
 that decorates one of the terminations of its label. The 
 present chancel seems to have been added about the time of 
 Henry VIII. ; the window at its east end being square-headed, 
 as are all the other windows in the building, with the exception 
 of one, which is very obtusely pointed. The arches in the 
 body are tolerably high-pointed, and supported by polygonal 
 columns : those between the chancel and aisle are obtuse, the 
 columns clustered and fluted, and were probably substituted, 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 at the erection of this part of the structure, for the original 
 south wall of the aisle, or first chancel. 
 
 The manor-house, near the church, was the birth-place, in 
 1514, of Sir John Cheke, celebrated for his attainments as a 
 linguist, and more especially for his skill in the Greek tongue. 
 When not more than twenty-six years of age, he was chosen 
 first Greek professor at Cambridge, in a foundation then re- 
 recently instituted by Henry VIII. ; and at forty was ap- 
 pointed preceptor to Prince Edward, afterwards Edward VI. 
 That young monarch, from a high sense of his merit, conferred 
 on him the distinction of knighthood, and soon afterwards 
 made him chamberlain of the exchequer, and admitted him to 
 his privy council. But with the life of Edward ended all the 
 happy days of Sir John ; for, having taken part with Lady 
 Jane Grey, and become her secretary, he was arraigned and con- 
 demned for high treason. He obtained a remission of the 
 sentence, indeed, from Queen Mary ; but, after residing some 
 time abroad, was again forcibly conducted to England, and 
 involved in new troubles, on the ground of his protestantism. 
 Confined in the Tower, he was told plainly that he must 
 " turn, or burn ;" an alternative, under which, alas ! his mind 
 was without sufficient strength to support him. He made at 
 first an equivocatorv, and finally an open and public recanta- 
 tion; did penance for his "heresy;" and hoped, unhappy 
 man ! to be at peace. But shame and mortification brought 
 him to a premature end ; for he lived but little more than a 
 year of mental bondage and misery, in lieu of acquiring the 
 glory of martyrdom a twelvemonth before. 
 
 We leave Mottistone with the remark, that its rocks are 
 among the number of the dangers of this iron-bound coast, 
 and proved the destruction of the Carn-Brea Castle East 
 Indiaman, in the month of July, 1829. The fated vessel had 
 quitted Spithead at nine o'clock in the morning, and by three 
 in the afternoon of the same day was a wreck opposite this 
 12. 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS OV 
 
 village. Providentially, however, the crew and passengers 
 were all saved. 
 
 Brooke, formerly only a chapelry to Freshwater, now claims 
 the honours of a separate parish. The village stands in a 
 sheltered and retired situation, and yields a delightful view 
 from the site of its Church. The only dwelling of importance 
 is Brooke House, the residence of the lord of the manor. 
 
 There are two ways of proceeding to Freshwater Gate from 
 this village : one by a footpath, not always visible, along the 
 summits of the cliffs ; the other, the carriagQ-road, which leads 
 over Shalcombe, Compton, and Afton Downs. For once the 
 carriage way is that to be preferred, as the footpath affords 
 little to interest, if we except several small chines, and an un- 
 interrupted view of the grand marine element. One of the 
 chines had received a very recent enlargement from a landslip 
 at the period of our visit. The effects were seen in a chasm 
 encroaching upon our very track ; and we saw various in- 
 stances besides of founders of the cliffs, these having been 
 unusually numerous during the late winter. Some undercliffs 
 in miniature were also very apparent. 
 
 The road over the downs presents a succession of prospects 
 that are truly magnificent. From Afton Down especially, 
 whose extreme height is five hundred feet above the sea, a 
 very large proportion of the Island can be distinctly made out. 
 In front are the towering cliffs of Freshwater ; and, beyond 
 them, those of the Isle of Purbeck, and even the distant coast 
 of Portland. To the right stretches the valley of the Yar, with 
 that little river winding in the midst to where it breaks into 
 the Solent at Yarmouth. Behind, we trace not only the gene- 
 ral inland view, but the dark romantic features of Black-gang 
 Chine ; while, to the left, we have the ever glorious ocean. 
 On one occasion, indeed, we lost the greater part of this noble 
 prospect, through a mist which was driving up from the sea ; 
 but were amply compensated by the attendant circumstances. 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 01 
 
 llie mist filled the valley before us to a considerable extent ; 
 but, beyond its boundary, the village and church of Fresfy 
 water, with the whole tract from thence to the Solent, laj 
 burnished, as it were, by the morning sun-light. The oceait 
 was hidden from the view, though its waves were still heard 
 breaking upon the not distant beach. The dense vapour also 
 concealed a great part of the lofty eminence and cliffs front- 
 ing us on the farther side of the valley ; but could not prevent 
 a beautiful sight at an elevation it was unable to reach. For 
 there, entirely insulated by clouds from the world below, rose 
 the High-Down Cliffs , as they are called, the loftiest of the 
 Freshwater range, the sun shining with the most vivid bright- 
 ness on their chalky faces, as well as on a stretch of their 
 green summits marked by the beacon, which, with the point 
 it stood on, and the Needles Point beyond it, seemed to belong 
 not at all to earth, but to some more glorious sphere. To add 
 to the effect, a long line of clouds from the south-west broke 
 against the face of the farthest cliff, which forced them, by 
 the obstruction thus presented, to curl high in a resplendent 
 wreath over its top. We had read descriptions of somewhat 
 similar scenes in the pages of the poet and romance-writer ; but, 
 we confess, with all our anticipations of beauty and grandeur 
 as connected with the Isle of Wight, we were equally startled 
 and delighted with this scene at the place and time mentioned. 
 
 Descending the western slope of Afton Down, we reach 
 Freshwater Gate, literally the gate, or entrance from the sea, 
 between the downs, to the village of Freshwater, which 
 stands a little inland. This village is scarce worth the travel- 
 ler's attention, affording nothing of greater interest than its 
 Church, dedicated to All Saints, and attached to the richest 
 benefice in the Island, in the gift of St. John's College, Cam- 
 bridge. An incumbent in the early part of the seventeenth 
 century was father to the celebrated Dr. Robert Hooke, who 
 was born here in the year 1635, and who died in London, aged 
 
92 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 nearly eighty-seven, though, during the early part of his life, 
 he was so weakly as not to be expected to reach manhood. 
 His strong mechanical genius, and his eminence in natural 
 philosophy, procured him high reputation ; and he naturally 
 became a leading member of the Royal Society, when that 
 learned body was founded. For some little time prior to his 
 death, he is said to have retained his seat at a table, wholly 
 engrossed by his literary pursuits, which he would not inter- 
 rupt by the process of undressing and going to bed. 
 
 The source of the river Yar is within a few yards of the sea 
 at the Gate ; and the near contiguity of a fresh spring to the 
 mighty body of saline waters, was perhaps the circu ^stance 
 that gave name to the parish within which that river takes its 
 rise. The ocean, in rough weather, very frequently rolls over 
 the intervening bank, and mingles its rude waves with the 
 scarcely perceptible flow of the little stream. Formerly the 
 salt and the fresh waters approached even more closely ; and 
 it has been observed that " a few men might then, by excava- 
 tion, have formed another island ;" which once accomplished, 
 " isho could have re-united the separated lands, when the sea 
 had made a breach ?" There is a small assemblage of cottages, 
 and a neat and convenient Hotel, called the " Albion," at this 
 spot ; which may thus be pleasantly rendered a resting-place, 
 from whence to visit the various remarkable objects in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Among those objects, the Bay of Freshwater is not the least 
 pleasing ; nor is it the smallest recommendation of its shores, 
 that they present every requisite facility, and the purest water, 
 for sea-bathing. Pursuing its margin, in a boat, eastwardly, 
 we may inspect the famous Arched Rock, which, together with 
 a neighbouring insulated mass, has been long parted from the 
 cliff to which both were originally attached, but which is now 
 about six hundred feet distant. The Arched Rock is a natural 
 curiosity that deserves attention ; its perforation having been 
 
t 
 
 t 
 
/ 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 93 
 
 effected entirely by the action of the same resistless element, 
 to which the separation of the rock itself from the parent cliff 
 is to be attributed. The Afton Down caverns are next visited ; 
 and then Cumpton Bay, with its delightful walk on the sands 
 as far as Brooke Point. During the whole of this excursion 
 the cliffs are seen in perspective as far as St. Catherine's Hill, 
 which nobly terminates the view. 
 
 Taking a westward direction from the Gate, the tourist may 
 choose between land and water in proceeding to the Needles 
 Point. By the first-mentioned approach he will enjoy views of 
 sublime extent, as he pursues his way over the High Down 
 (whereon is the beacon before spoken of) and its continuation 
 called Needles Down, near whose extremity is placed the well- 
 known Light-House. Arrived at the Point, which is the 
 western termination of Freshwater Cliffs, and of the Island, the 
 prospect, in clear weather, will absolutely astonish by its bold- 
 ness and grandeur. The Light-House itself merits observa- 
 tion. It has ten argand lamps, and the same number of 
 plated reflectors ; the united effulgence from which is extremely 
 brilliant. In this building reside the widow, and seven chil- 
 dren, of the late light-house-keeper, Thomas Colereine, who, 
 in November 1832, fell, as reported, from the High Down 
 cliffs into the sea; but the shrugs and whispers of fishermen 
 and others upon this coast point to a darker catastrophe, the 
 cause of which is supposed to have been the hatred borne by 
 some unknown individuals against the unfortunate man, on 
 account of his zeal in repressing the too common smuggling 
 propensities of the neighbourhood. However this may have 
 been, it is certain that the body of the deceased was found in 
 the sea, immediately under the beacon, as free from contusions 
 of every kind as if he had indeed been hurled to such a dis- 
 tance from the face of the cliff, as to encounter none of its 
 projections in his fall. He had walked on the. preceding even- 
 ing to Freshwater; where, on account of the roughness of the 
 
94 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 night, he remained till six o'clock in the morning, when he set 
 out on his return : but that morning was dark, and foggy, and 
 — he returned not! Really, if smuggling be the precursor to 
 crimes such as are thus hinted at, it assumes an aspect at which 
 every moral feeling must shudder. The situation of a family 
 upon this exposed promontory, during the boisterous gales 
 that prevail perhaps throughout two-thirds of the whole year, 
 is cheerless enough, without the prospect of dangers to be 
 incurred by treading in the path of duty. The violence of the 
 wind here at times, can be estimated by none who have not 
 witnessed its effects : the greensward that covers the point is 
 constantly strewn with fragments of the cliff blown upon it; 
 and, for days together, the inmates of the light-house are 
 rendered its prisoners, it being perilous to leave the shelter 
 afforded by its walls, the strength of which, it may be imagined, 
 is far from common. 
 
 The zcater excursion from Freshwater Gate to the extremity 
 of the promontory remains to be described. Boats, for either 
 this or the eastward trip, can be readily obtained at the Gate. 
 The westward voyage is the most interesting ; as, in addition 
 to the stupendous height of the cliffs, there are no less than 
 eleven Caves, for the inspection of the curious, into most of 
 which a boat, or the party it contains, can enter when the 
 weather and state of the tide are propitious. These caves, and 
 the more remarkable rock features of the coast, all o: which 
 are pointed out by the boatmen, occur in the following order. 
 
 Freshwater Cave, one hundred and twenty feet in .depth, 
 and the rude arch about thirty feet wide, and the same high. 
 The sea view from the interior has a very fine effect. 
 
 The two Ih ys of Watcombe, and the Rock bearing the 
 same name, all of which are delineated in our engravings. 
 
 The four Caves of Watcombe. 
 
 Neptune'* Caves : the larger of which is two hundred feet 
 deep ; and the smaller, ninety feet. A pistol is sometimes fired 
 
E-i 
 
i 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 95 
 
 in the first-mentioned, to shew the loudness of the echo, which 
 in truth is perfectly astounding. 
 Bar Cave, ninety feet deep. 
 
 The High Doxn Cliffs, six hundred and seventeen feet 
 high. This is the greatest elevation of the sublime cliffs, that 
 stretch, with greater or less degrees of altitude, from the Gate 
 to the Needles, a distance of three miles. To form a just 
 conception of their height and magnitude, the boat should put 
 out to sea for about a quarter of a mile. Steep as are their 
 sides, sheep-walks are observed partly to descend them; and 
 samphire relieves their dazzling whiteness with its green 
 patches. 
 
 Frenchman s Hole, ninety feet deep : so named, the story 
 says, from an escaped prisoner of that nation, who here uselessly 
 concealed himself until starvation consigned him to a narrower 
 and more lasting place of confinement. 
 
 Lord Holmes's Parlour, and Kitchen. 
 
 Roe's Hall, six hundred feet high : and the Wedge Rock. 
 
 Old Pepper Rock. 
 
 The Main Bench, a wide stretch of the cliff, in altitude 
 nearly equalling the High Down Cliffs. This is the grand 
 resort, and nesting-place, of the numerous marine birds that 
 frequent these rocks, distinguished by the names of Choughs, 
 Puffins, Willocks, Razor-bills, Cormorants, &c. They are all 
 migratory, and seen here only during the summer months, 
 when the glowing faces of the cliffs, enjoying a constant ex- 
 posure to the south, supply the fittest of nurseries for their 
 young. Their eggs and feathers are the plunder of the country 
 people, who resort to a well-known but daring feat of enter- 
 prise in order to obtain them. First driving a strong stake, 
 or iron bar, into the top of the cliff, near its edge, the adven- 
 turer secures one end of a rope to it, and the other to a piece 
 of wood placed cross-wise, so as to resemble a rude seat. By 
 means of this simple apparatus he descends the front of the 
 
96 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 precipice, halljoing on his way to scare the birds from their 
 holes in the rocks, when the eggs are his chief object ; but 
 when the feathers are his principal concern, he silently secures 
 his prey as they sit within their nests, or seizes them in the 
 act of flying from their lurking-places. In the latter case, the 
 plumage is his only prize ; for the flesh of these birds is too 
 rank for human food, though it is used as a bait by the fisher- 
 men. The effect of firing a gun from the boat, when beneath 
 these cliffs, is astonishing : myriads of wings are instanta- 
 neously in motion, and the air is literally darkened by their 
 flight. 
 
 Preston's Bower. 
 
 The Needles Rocks, five in number, but of which three only 
 are generally conspicuous. These are of great size and alti- 
 tude, and have an imposing aspect when viewed from the wa- 
 ter, though they look diminutive in comparison from the cliffs 
 above. There can be no doubt that they formed the original 
 point, and that the fury of the elements has insulated them, 
 and reduced them to their present forms and sizes. Neither 
 of them now bears the slightest resemblance to the implement 
 of housewifery from which they are named; the original needle, 
 or spiral rock so called, which was one hundred and twenty 
 feet high, having been undermined by the waves in 1764, when 
 it consequently fell, with a concussion that was felt at the 
 distance of many miles. 
 
 The Needles Cave, three hundred feet deep. 
 
 Scratched s Bag, the features of which are peculiarly grand 
 on turning the noble jut of the rocks into it. The point is 
 now rounded; and there are few seasons of the year at which 
 a considerable diminution of temperature will not be expe- 
 rienced in consequence. This of course arises from the north- 
 ern exposure of the bay, as compared with the southern aspect 
 of the cliffs whose warm reflection we have just quitted. 
 Parties here usually land, and stand within a vast arched 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 97 
 
 hollow of the cliff, the height of which is said to be two 
 hundred feet ; and yet this spacious semicircle seems to extend 
 little more than one -third of the way up the cliff, when 
 observed from the boat after it has again put out into the bay. 
 The indentation of the coast continues for some distance, and 
 forms, towards its northern extremity, what is called Alum Bay, 
 on account of the quantity of alum found along its shores. 
 The pearly hue and magical repose of the towering heights 
 we are leaving, strongly contrast, as was remarked by Sir H. 
 England, with " the torn forms and vivid colouring of the clay 
 cliffs on the opposite side. These offer a series of points of a 
 sort of scolloped form, and which are often quite sharp and 
 spiry. Deep rugged chasms divide the strata in many places, 
 and not a vestige of vegetation appears in any part : all is 
 wild ruin. The tints of theee cliffs are so bright, and so 
 varied, that they have not the appearance of anything natural. 
 Deep purplish red, dusky blue, bright ochreous yellow, gray 
 nearly approaching to white, and absolute black, succeed each 
 other, as sharply defined as the stripes in silk; and after rain, 
 the sun, which from about noon till its setting, in summer, 
 illuminates them more and more, gives a brilliancy to some of 
 these, nearly as resplendent as the high lights on real silk." 
 Various ornaments for the mantel-piece are made of these 
 coloured sands; which are also ingeniously arranged, so as to 
 compose different figures in phials or bottles. They are sold 
 in the Light-House, and at the fancy shops nearly throughout 
 the Island. The white sand is a considerable article of com- 
 merce, being much used in the manufacture of glass and china. 
 
 There is a chine worn by a stream in the variegated cliff, 
 by which, with no great difficulty, an ascent may be gained to 
 the Needles Down. Should the traveller visit the Light- 
 House from the top of the chine, we advise him not to take 
 the most direct route, which in places approaches the perpendi- 
 cular much more nearly in fact than in appearance, and a slip 
 IS. 
 
98 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 on the smooth sod might be attended with fatal consequences ; 
 for the momentum of descent once given to the body, it is 
 deprived of power to arrest its progress, and must be infallibly- 
 conducted to the edge of the chalk cliff, and thence, by a fall 
 of at least four hundred feet, to the beach below ! A rather 
 more circuitous path, in an inland direction, will prevent the 
 possibility of incurring this danger. 
 
 The Needles Hotel, contiguous to Alum Bay, offers a 
 delightful place of sojourn at the close of this excursion. From 
 hence the tourist may proceed to the north side of the bay, 
 and the eminence called Headon Hill, the height of which is 
 about four hundred feet. This hill is peculiarly interesting to 
 the geologist, from the facilities afforded by its lofty vertical 
 cliffs for the examination of its strata. The white sand before 
 mentioned is the lowest stratum. It exceeds thirty feet in 
 thickness ; and may be traced round the foot of the hill on the 
 north side to Totland and Colwell Bays, of which it forms the 
 bottom, dipping gradually to the north. The clays of Alum 
 Bay also appeared so promising to the late Mr. Wedgwood, 
 that he was induced to open pits, in the hope of finding them 
 convertible into porcelain; but, upon trial, they were found 
 not to burn sufficiently white for the purposes of his elegant 
 manufacture. 
 
THE ISLE DF WIGHT. 
 
 99 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FROM ALUM BAY TO YARMOUTH. 
 
 The road from the Needles Hotel, in the direction we are 
 now taking, presents nothing more remarkable, between that 
 house and the village of Freshwater, than the view to the left 
 over Totland and Colwell Bays, with Hurst Castle conspi- 
 cuously jutting out from the opposite coast of Hampshire. 
 Colwell is a small village, with a pretty green opening to the 
 sea : it was distinguished by barracks during the late war, and 
 then also boasted its inn. 
 
 To the right, observe Farringford Hill, the property of 
 John Hamborough, of Steephill, Esq. 
 
 Freshwater, as before noticed, is an inconsiderable village, 
 containing nothing more interesting than its Church, which 
 consists of a tower, body, side aisles, and chancel. Nearly 
 all the openings in the walls are either quite modern, or not 
 older than the period of the square head and label : the oldest 
 window is at the east end of the north aisle. The upper part 
 of the tower has been renovated, and heightened, subsequently 
 to the original building : its west front contains a singular 
 very high-pointed blank arch, pierced by a small door and 
 window. Within is an ancient and nameless tomb, bearing 
 the effigy of a man in armour on a brass plate. On being 
 opened, several years ago, a skeleton was discovered, with the 
 scull lying betwixt the legs : whence it was conjectured that 
 this was the long resting-place of some person of consequence 
 who had been decapitated. 
 
100 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 There is a bridge over the river Yar close to the church, 
 and the road thence leads to Yarmouth ; but the shorter and 
 pleasanter way is that which conducts through the sweetly 
 retired village of Norton. Here the dwellings stand com- 
 pletely embowered in their gardens, whose beauties are relieved 
 and heightened by an occasional intermixture with forest trees. 
 In the neighbourhood are some lovely seats, belonging to 
 Mrs Mitchell, Admiral Sir G. Hammond, Captain Crozier, and 
 Mrs. Hickerson. 
 
 We pass to the opposite point of the mouth of the Yar by 
 a ferry-boat, and thus reach the most important town in this 
 quarter of the island, styled Yarmouth. From its ancient 
 charters, in which it is called Eremuth, it is plain that the 
 name of the river on which it stands has been changed from 
 Ere to the present somewhat more euphonious appellation. 
 Changes of greater importance have also taken place ; a£ is 
 evident from the yet perceptible traces of various streets, on 
 which no habitation is now standing. But part of this ap- 
 parent decay may arise from the circumstance, that the place 
 was destroyed by the French in 1377, when Newtown was 
 also devastated ; as it is possible that, at the rebuilding, many 
 entirely new situations were chosen, in lieu of restoring the 
 houses upon their former sites. According to the last census, 
 the number of inhabitants of the town and parish is five hun- 
 dred and eighty- six. The business of Yarmouth is chiefly 
 derived from the anchorage for shipping afforded by its excel- 
 lent roadstead, and from its steam-boat communication with 
 Lymington on the opposite shore. The mail-boat leaves 
 Lymington, for Yarmouth, at nine o'clock every morning ; and 
 Yarmouth, for Lymington, at three o'clock in the afternoon : 
 the fare, one shilling each person. There is, besides, a steam- 
 packet which plies daily between Yarmouth and Lymington, 
 and which, during the summer months, extends the excursion 
 on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, to Cowes and Porta- 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 101 
 
 mouth. Excellent sailing-boats may also be obtained here, 
 either for the passage to Lymington, or for viewing the coast 
 scenery from this place to Freshwater Gate. The last-men- 
 tioned trip, when the weather is favourable, is one of the most 
 interesting and delightful that the tourist can well take. We 
 may here notice that the River is navigable up to Freshwater 
 Mills, and is a beautiful object, viewed from the Solent, at 
 high water. 
 
 Yarmouth was one of the three towns in the Isle of Wight, 
 which returned two members each to the imperial parliament 
 until the passing of the reform act in 1832. The elective 
 franchise lay in the mayor and corporation, whose greatest 
 number of votes, during the thirty years preceding their loss 
 of the privilege, was nine. Members were first sent to par- 
 liament from this place in 1304, or the thirty-third year of 
 the reign of Edward the First : and Yarmouth took precedence 
 of every other town on the island in attaining to that honour. 
 Its regular representation did not begin to take place, how- 
 ever, until the 27th of Elizabeth, or the year 1584. 
 
 The Corporation consists of a mayor and twelve burgesses. 
 The first charter was granted in 1135, the 36th of Hemy the 
 First, by Earl Baldwin, lord of the island. It was again in- 
 corporated by James I. in the year 1608. Agreeably to the 
 last-mentioned charter, the mayor is chosen, upon every va- 
 cancy, by the burgesses in their Town-Hall, where they fast 
 until nine out of the twelve have agreed who shall be the 
 object of their choice. Another relic of old times attaching 
 to Yarmouth, is one of those ancient courts called courts of 
 pie-poudre. 
 
 The Town-Hall, just alluded to, forms the upper part of a 
 convenient but unpretending brick building, the lower portion 
 of which is designated the Market* House. The market is 
 held on Wednesdays. An annual fair, of three days' duration, 
 forms a further distinction of this antique town. 
 
102 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 The Castle, placed at the entrance of the river, is one of the 
 numerous small forts, frequently called block-houses, erected 
 by Henry VIII. It occupies the site of a church, which had 
 just before been destroyed by the French ; and the dissolution 
 of the religious houses afforded the funds, out of which both 
 it, and many of its brethren, were erected. The eight guns 
 of this little fortress protect equally the approach to the town, 
 and the course of the Solent between the Island and Hurst 
 Castle. 
 
 The only other edifice of importance is the Church, built 
 in the year 1543, in consequence of the destruction of that 
 more ancient church just spoken of. In 1831, this structure 
 was completely repaired by the liberality of Daniel Alexander, 
 Esq., a resident in the town, who also raised the tower to its 
 present height, and erected a gallery in the interior at the 
 west end. A small chapel near the chancel contains a well- 
 executed statue, in marble, of Sir Robert Holmes, governor 
 of the island, who died in 1692. A verbose and laboured 
 Latin inscription records the merits and the deeds (else long 
 since forgotten) of this " Robertus Holmes, Miles." 
 
 Other places of worship in Yarmouth are a Methodists 9 
 chapel, and one belonging to a congregation of Baptists. 
 Neither of these buildings possess any architectural features 
 deserving remark ; though, internally, they are both neat and 
 commodious. 
 
 Of Inns there are three : the principal of which, the George, 
 is a large old house, erected by Admiral Sir Richard Holmes, 
 when governor of the island. Charles II. was here enter- 
 tained by the Admiral in 1671, on occasion of that monarch's 
 visit to the Wight. This house occupies a very eligible situa- 
 tion near the quay. The Bugle, though in point of conse- 
 quence only a second-rate establishment, will also provide the 
 traveller with every suitable accommodation. 
 
 All circumstances considered, it may perhaps excite some 
 
THE ISLE OF WJUHT. 
 
 103 
 
 surprise that Yarmouth has never risen into importance as a 
 watering-place. For, though the town contains in itself no- 
 thing particularly calculated to recommend it, that is not less 
 true of several fashionable watering-places, whose vicinities 
 are certainly inferior, both in rural beauty, and coast scenery, 
 to the neighbourhood of this town. Still, the fact is, that 
 Yarmouth is passed through, rather than sojourned at, by the 
 great majority of its visitors : and while that continues to be 
 the case, it is of course unlikely that the usual appendages of 
 a watering-place will be there provided. 
 
 The distance of this town from Newport, the capital of the 
 island, is eleven miles. The road lies through Thorley, Cal- 
 bourne, and Carisbrooke. The two last-mentioned places have 
 passed under notice : the first, Thorley, is a village of no 
 note, situate in a wooded vale. Its Church, said to have been 
 built by Amicia, Countess of Devon, has a most barn-like 
 appearance, being of small size, and without the usual distinc- 
 tion of ecclesiastical structures, a steeple. A somewhat more 
 direct road to Newport, and that generally adopted, is the one 
 through Shalfleet, which leaves Thorley on the right. 
 
104 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS OF 
 
 THE VOYAGE ROUND THE ISLAND. 
 
 This may be conveniently performed either from Cowes or 
 Ryde ; and by steam-packet, or sailing-boat, as the visitor may 
 prefer. Of course, steam offers the more regular and expedi- 
 tious mode of conveyance: yet there are some adventurous 
 spirits who prefer the sail, though the wind, to be propitious 
 throughout the excursion, must necessarily make more changes 
 than are ordinarily to be expected even from that capricious 
 element. During the summer months, a steam-boat leaves 
 Ryde about once a week for the performance of this voyage ; 
 and generally returns in eight hours, or thereabouts. The trip 
 is less statedly undertaken from Cowes ; where, when it is about 
 to take place, it is usual to announce the fact through the 
 crier, and by placards. Cowes being the more centrical point, 
 however, we will choose, in the following description, to sup- 
 pose the voyage commenced from that watering-place. We 
 will only farther premise, that in most cases we shall enume- 
 rate, rather than minutely particularize, the objects viewed from 
 the vessel ; some account of most of them having been already 
 given. 
 
 Proceeding eastward, Old Castle Point is first rounded as 
 we leave the mouth of the Medina; and then appears that 
 famous "modern-antique," Norris Castle. Osborne House 
 next meets the view: a finely wooded coast intervenes, and 
 we pass King's Quay, the entrance to the Wootton river, and 
 perceive Fern Hill and Wootton Church in the distance. 
 Quarr Wood will call up some reminiscences of those remains of 
 the ancient abbey which it embosoms. Rinstead Parsonage, — 
 
THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 105 
 
 the picturesque batling-house and seat of John Fleming, Esq., 
 — Ryde House,— the villas of Earl Spencer and the Duke of 
 Buckingham, — appear in succession; followed by Ryde itself, 
 with its pier, terrace, chapels, cheerful white dwellings, &c. 
 Woods now enrich the shore, with very little intermission, 
 until we reach St. Helen's; permitting but a partial view of 
 the seats called Appley, St. John's, St. Clare, Sea Grove, and 
 the Priory. Sea- View, otherwise styled Nettlestone, and the 
 ci-devant St. Helen's Church, now a sea-mark, are noted prior 
 to our crossing the mouth of Brading Haven ; beyond which lies 
 the fertile valley that extends from the town of Brading to 
 Appuldurcombe, while the downs of Shanklin and Wroxall 
 close the perspective. Passing a perilous reef of rocks, named 
 the Bembridge Ledge, and rounding the Foreland Point, Culver 
 Cliffs appear in their lofty whiteness ; and are succeeded by 
 Sandown Bay, and the celebrated Chine of Shanklin. Luc- 
 combe Chine comes next; and. then the bold eminence of 
 Dunnose : East End follows ; and we enter what is called the 
 Race of Bonchurch. All the beauties of the Undercliff are 
 now in prospect ; and it must be sufficient to recite the names 
 of Ventnor, Steephill, St. Lawrence, Old Park, Mirables, the 
 Orchard, Puckaster, the Sandrock Hotel, and Rocken End. 
 The towering heights of St. Catherine's come next into view, 
 with the gloomy features of Black- gang Chine. Chale and 
 Brixton Bays are then traversed; affording glimpses, as we 
 pass, of the villages of Brixton, Mottistone, and Brooke. 
 Reaching Freshwater Bay, we are struck with the majestic 
 altitude of the line of cliffs stretching before us : but we have 
 so lately particularise d all the features of this part of the coast, 
 including the Needles Rocks, Scratchell's Bay, and Alum Bay, 
 that further notice would involve an unnecessary recapitulation. 
 Totland and Colwell Bay s, and the point beyond which stands 
 the lovely hamlet of Norton, are passed ere we re-view Yar- 
 mouth from the Solent, and notice its advantageous position 
 14 
 
106 ILLUSTRATIONS OP TUB ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 both as regards the Island and the opposite coast. Little to 
 interest now occurs, till the entrance to Newtown River, and 
 Thorness Bay, afford prospects of some fine interior scenery, 
 backed by the range of downs that stretches from Freshwater 
 to Gatcombe. Gurnard's Bay, Wood Vale, and Egypt House, 
 are then the only objects that solicit attention, until we are 
 once more called upon to admire the delightful situation of 
 Cowes, and regain the point irom which we started. 
 
London, rublisliei by Simp] . 
 
Marshall, Stationers Court 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Afton Down 90 
 
 Albany Barracks 46 
 
 Aldermore, the Mill at .. 21 
 Alexander, Daniel, Esq. .. 102 
 
 , Alum Bay 97 — 97 
 
 Appley 19 
 
 Appuldurcombe. 56 — 66 
 
 Arreton 58 
 
 Church 59 
 
 Down 61 
 
 Ashey Down 31 
 
 B. 
 
 Back of the Island 62 
 
 Barton Farm 41 
 
 Beauchamp 80 
 
 Bembridge 30 — 30 
 
 Binstead 22 
 
 Parsonage ib. 
 
 Black-gang Chine 83 — 83 
 
 Ditto (Plate 2) 84 
 
 Bouchurch 73 — 73 
 
 Boniface, St., Cottage... 77 
 
 Down 73 
 
 Brading 28 — 28 
 
 ' Church ib. 
 
 Haven 29 
 
 Brannon, George 25 
 
 BrigstockeTerrace,Ryde,9, 10 
 
 Brixton 53 
 
 Bay 87 
 
 Brooke 90 
 
 Bucklauds 21 
 
 c. 
 
 Enpra 
 Pare v,n ' ,e 
 
 Calbourne 50 
 
 Carisbrooke • 46 46 
 
 Castle 47 — 47 
 
 Vicarage House 48 
 
 Church ib. 
 
 Carn-Brea Castle, Wreck 
 
 of 89 
 
 Chale 86 
 
 Bay 87 
 
 Cheke, Sir John 89 
 
 Cliff Cottage 19 
 
 Colereine, Thomas 93 
 
 Colwell Bay 98, 99 
 
 Compton Bay 93 
 
 Cowes 32 — 3V 
 
 Regatta 33 
 
 Royal Yacht Club- 
 
 House ib. 
 
 Castle 34 
 
 Baths ib. 
 
 Places of Worship. . 35 
 
 West Cliff. 37 
 
 Hotels, &c 34 
 
 Walks from 38 
 
 Cripple Path 80 
 
 Culver Cliffs 31 
 
 D. 
 
 Dairyman's Cottage, Arre- 
 ton • 58 
 
 Dover, the, Ryde 18 
 
 Dunnose 68 
 
Engra- 
 ving (o 
 face p. 
 
 -39 
 
 108 
 
 E. 
 
 Page. 
 
 East Cowes 39 
 
 Castle ib.- 
 
 East Dean 74 
 
 East End 68, 72 
 
 Egypt House, Cowes • • • • 37 
 Elizabeth Wallbridge, the 
 " Dairyman's Daugh- 
 ter" 59, 60 
 
 Elm Cottage 40 
 
 P. 
 
 Fa' r lee 45 
 
 Fairy Hill 20 
 
 Faningford Hill 9^ 
 
 Fern Hill 25 25 
 
 Fishbourne 24 
 
 Freshwater 91, 99—99 
 
 Gate 92 
 
 Bay ib. — 92 
 
 Arched Rock at. . — 93 
 
 View near — 94 
 
 Cave 94 — 94 
 
 G. 
 
 Gat combe Park 54 
 
 Church ib. 
 
 George Inn, Yarmouth . . . 102 
 
 Godshill ib —hb 
 
 Goodwin, Mrs 3(i 
 
 Grove Cottage 38 
 
 Gurnard's Bay > 38 
 
 H. 
 
 Haylands 21 
 
 HeadonHill 98 
 
 Hermit's Hole 3i 
 
 High- Down Cliffs.. 91,93,95 
 
 Hobson, Admiral 75 
 
 Hooke, Dr. Robert 91 
 
 House of Industry ...... 45 
 
 i. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Isle of Wight, brief general 
 
 view of , . 1 
 
 History 4 
 
 Natural and 
 
 Artificial Divisions. ... fi 
 
 Population and 
 
 Representation 7 
 
 Institution .. 44 
 
 Back of .... 62 
 
 Voyage round,104 
 
 K. 
 
 King's Quay 25 
 
 Kingston 53 
 
 Kite Hill 24 
 
 Knighton House 89 
 
 L. 
 
 Landslips r 72, 81 
 
 Long-stone 87 
 
 Luccombe Chine 68 
 
 M. 
 
 Main Bench, Freshwater 
 
 Cliffs 95 
 
 Medina Hermitage 86 
 
 Mill-Hill House 38 
 
 Mi rabies 79 
 
 Moor House 38 
 
 Mottistone 87 
 
 Church 88 
 
 Mount Cleves 81 
 
 Engra- 
 vkia to 
 face p. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nash, John, Esq. Seat of, 39 
 
 Needles Down 93 
 
 Light- House.... ib. 
 
 Rocks 96 — 96 
 
 — Ditto, viewed from 
 
 Scratchell's Bay —96 
 
 Hotel 98 
 
INDEX. 
 
 109 
 
 face p. 
 
 Newchurch 61 
 
 Newport 41 — 41 
 
 Free Grammar 
 
 School 42 
 
 — Church ib. 
 
 Chapels 43 
 
 Market-House and 
 
 Town-Hall 44 — 44 
 
 Isle of Wight In- 
 stitution . . . . r ib. 
 
 Hotels, Inns, and 
 
 Conveyance 45 
 
 Newtown 51 
 
 Niton 81 
 
 Church ib. — 81 
 
 Norris Castle 40 40 
 
 Northcourt 52 
 
 Northwood Park,Cowes. 38 
 
 Norton 100 
 
 Nut] well 27 
 
 0. 
 
 Old Fott 13 
 
 Old Park 79 
 
 Orchard Cottage 80 
 
 Osborne 40 
 
 Cottage ib. 
 
 P. 
 
 Padmore 41 
 
 Parochial Division 6 
 
 Pidford 54 
 
 Population 7 
 
 Priory, The 26 — 26 
 
 Puckaster Cove 80 — 80 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quarr Abbey 23 
 
 Stone Quarries .... 24 
 
 R. 
 
 Representation in Parlia- 
 ment 7 
 
 Richmond, Rev. L. 29.59, 65 
 
 P»ge. vingto 
 
 face p. 
 
 Rockeu-Eud 82 
 
 Race 83 
 
 Royal George, Loss of . . . 18 
 
 Royal Yacht Club 33 
 
 Ryde 8— -10 
 
 Pier 10 
 
 Market-House and 
 
 Town -Hall 12 
 
 Places of Worship. . ib. 
 
 Theatre 15 
 
 Hotels, Boarding- 
 houses, &c 16 
 
 Baths ib. 
 
 Conveyances 17 
 
 Walks from 17 
 
 Excursions from . • 24 
 
 Ryde House 21 
 
 s. 
 
 Sandown Fort and Bay .. 31 
 
 Sand-Rock Hotel 81—81 
 
 Spring 82 
 
 Scratchell's Bay 96 — 98 
 
 Sea Field 19 
 
 Sea Grove 20 
 
 Sea View 19 
 
 Shalfleet 51 
 
 Shanklin 63 
 
 Down 62 
 
 Church 63 
 
 Chine 64 — 64 
 
 Head of — 6(5 
 
 Chine (Plate 2)... — 67 
 
 Shorwell 52 
 
 St. Boniface Down 73 — 12 
 
 Cottage 77 
 
 St. Catherine's Hiil 84 
 
 St. Clare 20 — 20 
 
 St. Cross 45 
 
 St. Helen's 27 
 
 St. John's 20 
 
 St. Lawrence 79 — 79 
 
 Stapler's Heath 45 
 
 i Steephill 77 
 
 , Seat of John 
 
 Hamborough, Esq 78 — 78 
 
 Stick worth 61 
 
 Swainston 49 
 
1 10 
 
 T. 
 
 Kngra- 
 Page. viug to 
 face p. 
 
 Thorley 103 
 
 Totland Bay 98, 99 
 
 Trafalgar House 37 
 
 u. 
 
 Jndercltff 68 
 
 Uptou House 21 
 
 V. 
 
 Ventnor 77 
 
 Cove ib. — 77 
 
 Voyage round the Island. .104. 
 
 w. 
 
 Watcombe Bay 94 — 95 
 
 Westcliffe House 80 
 
 West Hill 38 
 
 Westmount 24 
 
 Westover 50 
 
 Kngra- 
 Page. vJngto 
 
 „. A . , face 11 
 
 Westridge 19 
 
 Whippingham 41 
 
 Whitwell 58 
 
 Wilkes's Cottage 31 
 
 Woodlands 20 
 
 Wootton Bridge 24 — 24 
 
 Church 25 
 
 Common ib. 
 
 Wroxall Down 68 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yacht Club 33 
 
 Yarborough's (Lord) Seat 
 
 at Appuldurcombe .... 55 
 Villa at 
 
 St. Lawrence 78 
 
 Yar River 92, 101 
 
 Yarmouth 100 — 100 
 
 Tow^-Hall 101 
 
 Castie ..102 
 
 Church ib. 
 
 Inns ib. 
 
 Yaverland 30 
 
 C Bavnes, Prinler, 
 18, Duke Streeij luincoliT'9 Inn Field*