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 A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 PARIS 
 
 In the Year 1608. 
 
 
 
 
 "By ©r. Martin Lifter. 
 
 
 
 
 L 0 NDO N, 
 Printed for Jacob Tonfon at the 
 
 Judges-Head near the Inner-Templc-Gdte 
 in Fleet (ireet^ and at Grafs-Inn-Gate in 
 Grays-lnn-Lane. 1699. 
 
 
 
To His Excellency^ 
 
 JOHN 
 
 Lord Sommers, Baron 
 
 of Eve/ham^ Lord 
 
 HighChancellor of 
 England^ and one of 
 
 the Lords-Juftices 
 of England. 
 
 My LORD, 
 
 Wlfdom is the Founda- 
 tion of fuftice md 
 Equity^ and it feems 
 not to be perfeU, mthout it com- 
 
 -A I prehends 
 
Dedications 
 
 prehends alfo Thilofophy and 
 Natural Learnings and what-' 
 ever is of good Relijh in Arts, 
 It is certain^ my Lord^ for the 
 Honour of your high Station^ 
 that the greatefl Ti^hilofofhers of 
 this Age^ mre of your Trede* 
 cejjors ; nor is your Lordjhif in 
 any thing behind them ; as tho 
 nothing infpired Teople with 
 more Equity ^ than a true value 
 for Vfeful Learning and Arts. 
 T^his hath given me the boldnefs 
 to offer your Lordfhip this fhort 
 Account^ of the Magnificent and 
 Noble City of Paris, and the 
 Court of that great King^ who 
 hath given Europe yi? long and 
 vehement Difqmet ^ and cojl 
 England in particular fo much 
 
 "Blood 
 
Dedication. 
 
 ^lood and Treafure. ^Tis pof- 
 lihle^ my Lord^ you may find a 
 leifure Hour to read over thefe 
 fevp Wafers for your T)'iverfion^ 
 wherein I promife my felf you 
 mil meet mth nothing Offenfive^ 
 hut clean Matter of FaB^ and 
 fome Jhort Notes of an mpreju*' 
 diced Ohferver, 'But that I may 
 no longer importune you^ perpe- 
 tually hufied in jo laborious and 
 ufeful anlmployment^I beg leaye 
 tojuh/crihe my /ejf, x '^^t 
 
 My t 
 
 Your Lordfliips 
 
 Moft Humble and 
 moift Obedient 
 Servant, 
 
 Martin Lifter. 
 
THE Reader is defired to Coma 
 with a Pen thefe Faults, before he 
 begins, becaufe they oblcure the Senfe. 
 As for the literal Faults they are ealieto 
 be mended by the Eye. 
 
 x] Page 39;"^ Tc*tt* M«to|»3e» • 
 ■'^ Pi^e 81. U»e %, read laminons. 
 
 P, 95. /. 19. r. limned* 
 
 P. io8. /. 29. n irit^rpolations. 
 
 P. 139. I, 30. r. had ftAif \^ ^ 
 
 P. 150. /. 8. r. Shoote. 
 
 P. jj8. ^. 7* in^ 
 
JOURNEY 
 
 T O 
 
 PARIS 
 
 In the Year i6^S. 
 
 IntroduBion to the Reader. , 
 
 THis Trad was Written chiefly 
 to fatisfie my own Curiofity, 
 and to delight my felf with the 
 Memory of what I had feen. 
 I bufied my felf in a place where I had 
 little to do, but to walk up and down 5 
 well knowing, that the Charader of a 
 Stranger gave me free admittance to Men 
 and Things. The French Nation value 
 themfelves upon Civility, and build and 
 drefs moftly for Figure ^ This Humour 
 
 B makes 
 
A Journey to Paris, is^c. 
 
 makes the Curiofity of Strangers very 
 eafie and welcome to them. 
 
 But why do you trouble us with a 
 Journey to P^m, a place fo well known 
 to every body here ? For very good 
 Reafon, to fpare the often telling my 
 Tale at my return. But we know al- 
 ready all you can fay, or can read it in 
 the Prefect State of France^ and Defer iption 
 of Park 5 two Books to be had in every 
 Shop in London 5 Tis right, fo you may 5 
 and I advife you not to negled them, if 
 you have a mind to judge well of the 
 Grandeur of the Court of Frame, and 
 the immenfe Greatnels of the City of 
 Park. Thefe were Spectacles I did in- 
 deed put on, but I found they did not 
 fit my fight, I had a mind to fee with- 
 out them 5 and in Matters of this Na- 
 ture, as vaft Cities and vaft Palaces, I did 
 not care much to ufe Microfcopes or Mag- 
 nifying Glailes. 
 
 But to content you. Reader, I pro- 
 mife you not to trouble you with Cere- 
 monies either of State or Church, or Po- 
 liticks ^ for I entred willingly into nei- 
 ther of them, but only, where they 
 would make a part of the Converfation, 
 or my Walk was ordered me. You 1 
 eafily find by my Obfervations, that I in- 
 cline rather to Nature than Dominion ; 
 
 and 
 
A Journey to Paris, isc. 3 
 
 and that I took more pleafure to fee 
 Monfieur Bremm in his white Waftcoat 
 digging in the Royal Phyfick Garden, 
 and fowing his Couches, than Monfieur 
 Saint ot making room for an Ambaflador ^ 
 and I found my felf better difpofed, and 
 more apt to learn the Names and Phyfi- 
 Ognomy of a Hundred Plants, than of 
 5 or 6 Princes. After all, I had much 
 rather have walked a 100 paces under 
 the meaneft Hedge in Langaedoc, than 
 any the fineft Alley at Vcr failles or St. Clou^ 
 fo much I prefer fair Nature and a warm 
 Sun, before the moft exquifite perfor- 
 mances of Art in a cold and barren 
 Climate. 
 
 Another Reafon, that I give you little 
 or no trouble in telling you Court Mat- 
 ters, is, that I was no more concerned 
 in the Embafly, than in the failing of 
 the Ship which carried me over : Tis 
 enough for me, with the reft of the 
 People of England^ to feel the good Ef- 
 fects of it, and to pafs away this Life in 
 Peace and Quietnefs. Tis a happy turn 
 for us, when Kings are made Friends 
 again. This was the end of this Embaf- 
 fy, and I hope it will laft our days. My 
 Lord Ambaflador was infinitely careffed 
 by the King, his Minifters, and all the 
 Princes. Tis certaia the French are the 
 
 B 2 moft 
 
A Journey to Paris, i^c. 
 
 moft Polite Nation in the World, and 
 can Praife and Court with a better Air 
 than the reft of Mankind. However the 
 generality of the Kingdom were through 
 great neceffity well difpofed to receive 
 the Peace : The Bigots and fome Dif- 
 banded Officers might be heard at our 
 firft going to grumble, but thofe alfo 
 gave over, and ' we heard no more of 
 them when we came away 5 but to the 
 Bufinefs. 
 
 I happily arrived at Vark after a te- 
 dious Journey in very bad Weather 5 
 for we fet out of London the loth of 
 December ^'m.di I did not reach Vark till the 
 firft of January for I fell fick upon the 
 Road, and ftay'd 5 days at be- 
 hind the Company, till my Fever abat- 
 ed 5 yet notwithftanding fo rude a Jour- 
 ney, I recovered, and was perfeftly 
 cured of my Cough in 10 days 5 which 
 was the chiefeft reafon of my leaving 
 London at that time of the year, and 
 never had the leaft return of it all the 
 Winter, though it was as fierce there as 
 I ever felt it in England. This great be- 
 nefit of the French Air I had experien- 
 ced 5 feveral times before, and had there- 
 fore longd for a pallage many years 5 
 but the continuance of the War was an 
 infuperable Obftacle to my Defires. 
 
 There- 
 
A Journey to Paris, is^c. 5 
 
 Therefore the firft opportunity which 
 offered it felf I readily embraced, which 
 was my Lord Portland's Acceptance of 
 my Attendance of him in his Extraordi- 
 nary Embaffie ^ who ordered me to go 
 before with one of my good Friends, 
 who was fent to prepare Matters againft 
 his arrival. 
 
 Now that I might not wholly truft my 
 Memory, in what I faw at Fam^ I fet 
 down my Thoughts under certain Heads. 
 
 L Of Paris in General. 
 
 T Hough I had much fpare time the 
 6 Months I ftaid in that City, yet 
 the rudenefs of the Winter Seafon kept 
 me in for fome time. Again, I believe 
 I did not fee the Tithe of what deferve$ 
 to be feen, and well confidered ^ becaufe 
 for many things I wanted a relifh, par^ 
 ticularly for Painting and Building 5 
 Hovi^ever I viewed the City in all its 
 parts, and made the round of it 5 took 
 feveral profpefts of it at a diftance, which 
 when well thought on, I muft needs 
 confefs it to be one of the moft Beauti- 
 ful and Magnificent in Europe, and in 
 which a Traveller might find Novelties 
 enough f ir 6 Months for daily Enter- 
 tainment, lead in and about this 
 
 B g Noble 
 
A ^^mrney to Paris, ^c. 
 
 Noble City. To give therefore a ftrid 
 and general Idea of it, and not to enter 
 far into the vain Difputes of the number 
 of Inhabitants, or its bignefs, compared 
 to London 5 fure I am, the jidnding Croud 
 was fo great, when my Lord Ambafla- 
 dor made his Entry, that our People 
 were ftrartled at it, and were ready the 
 next day to give up the Qiieftion, had . 
 they not well confidered the great Cu- 
 rioAity of the Farljians^ w^ho are much 
 more delighted in fine Shews than the 
 People of London^ and fo were well near 
 all got into the way of the Cavalcade. 
 One thing was an evident Argument of 
 this Humour, that there ere fome Hun- 
 dreds of Coaches of Perfons of the beft 
 Quality, even ferae Bifhops and Peers 
 which I fav/, which had placed them- 
 felves in a file to line the Streets, and 
 had had the patience to have fo remained 
 for fbme hours. 
 
 Tis alfo moft certain, that for the 
 quantity of Ground poiiefied by the 
 Common People, this City is much more 
 populous than any part of London 5 
 here are from 4 to 5 and to 10 Menages, 
 or diftind Fam/ilies in many Houfes 5 but 
 this is only to be underftood of certain 
 places of Trade. This difference betwixt 
 the two Cities alfo is true, that here the 
 
 Palaces 
 
A Journey to Paris, <s'c. 
 
 PalaceSv. and Convents have eat up the 
 Peoples Dwellings, and crouded them 
 exceflively together, and pollefied them- 
 felves of far the greateft part of the 
 Ground ^ whereas in London the con- 
 trary may be obferved, that the People 
 have deftroyed the Palaces, and placed 
 themfelves upon the Foundations of 
 them, and forced the Nobility to live in 
 Squares or Streets in a fort of Commu- 
 nity 5 but this they have done very ho- 
 neftly, having fairly purchafed them. 
 
 The Views alfo which it gives upon 
 the River are admirable 5 that of the 
 Font-neuf downwards to the Tmllerks^ or 
 upwards from the Pojit-Royd 5 and in 
 fome other places, as from Pont St. Ber- 
 nard^ the QrevCy &c. The River Seine 
 which pafles through the midft of the 
 City, is all nobly Bank'd or Keyed with 
 large Freeftone and inclofes in the 
 heart of the City two Iflands, which 
 caufes many fine Bridges to be built to 
 pafs over them. One of thefe Iflands 
 called rijle de Palak was all Park for 
 fome Ages. 
 
 The Houfes are built of hev/en Stone 
 intirely, or whited over with Plaifter : 
 fome indeed in the beginning of this Age 
 are of Brick with Freeftone, as the Place- 
 Rojal^ Place'Danphin^ &c. but that is 
 
 B 4 wholly 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 wholly left off now 3 and thp white 
 Plaifter is in fome few places only co- 
 loured after the fafhion of Brick, as part 
 of. the Abbay of St, Germain. The 
 Houfes every where are high and ftately 5 
 The Churches numerous, but not very 
 big 5 The Towers and Steeples but few 
 in proportion to the Churches, yet that 
 noble way of Steeple, the Domes or Cu- 
 polas^ have a marvellous effeft in pro- 
 fpeft 5 though they are not many, as 
 that of Val de Grace, des Invalides, Col- 
 lege Mazarin, De V Affumption, the Grand- 
 Jefuits, La Sorbonne, and fome few o- 
 thers. 
 
 All the Houfes of Perfons of Diftin- 
 £l:ion are built with Port-cochers, that is, 
 wide Gates to drive in a Coach, and 
 confequently have Courts within 5 and 
 moftly Remifes to fet them up^ There 
 are reckoned above 700 of thefe great 
 Gates 5 and very many of thefe are af- 
 ter the moft noble Patterns of aticient 
 Architedure. 
 
 The lower Windows of all Houfes 
 are Grated with ftrong Bars of Iron 3 
 which muft be a vaft Expence. 
 
 As the Houfes are magnificent without, 
 fo the Finifhing within fide and Furni- 
 ture anfwer in Riches and Neatnefs ^ as 
 Hangings of rich , Tapeftry, raifed with 
 
A Journey to Paris, i3^c. 
 
 Gold and Silver Threads, Crimfon Da- 
 mask and Velvet Beds or of Gold and 
 Silver Tiffue* Cdbimts and Bureaus of 
 Ivory inlaid withTortoiftiell^and Gold and 
 Silver Plates in a loo different manners : 
 Branches and Candlefticks of Cryftal : but 
 above all moft rire Pictures. The Gild- 
 ings, Carvings and Paintings of the Roof 
 are admirable. 
 
 Thefe things are in this City and the 
 Country about to fuch a variety and ex- 
 cefs, that you can come into no private 
 Houfe of any Man of Subftance, but 
 you fee fomething of them ^ and they are 
 obferved frequently to ruine themfelves 
 in thefe Expences. Every one, that has 
 any thing to fpare, covets to have fome 
 good Pifture or Sculpture of the beft 
 Artift 5 The like in the Ornaments of 
 their Gardens, fo that it is incredible 
 v/hat pleafure that vaft quantity of fine 
 things give the Curious Stranger- Here 
 as foon as ever a Man gets any thing by 
 Fortune or Inheritance, he lays it out in 
 fome fuch way as now named. 
 
 Yet after all many Utenfils and Con- 
 veniencies of Life are wanting here, 
 which we in England have : This makes 
 me remember what Monfieur Jujiell^ a 
 Pm/^;; formerly, told me here, that he had 
 made a Catalogue of near Threefcore 
 
10 A Journey to Paris, isc, 
 
 lliings of this Nature which they wanted 
 in Fans. 
 
 The Pavement of the Streets is all of 
 fquare Stone, of about 8 or lo Inches 
 (hick 5 that is, as deep in the ground as 
 they are broad at top ^ The Gutters ftial- 
 low, and laid round without edges,which 
 makes the Coaches glide eafily over 
 them. 
 
 '.However, it muft needs be faid, the 
 Streets are very narrow, and the Paflen- 
 gers a-foot no ways fecured from the hur- 
 ry and danger of Coaches, which always 
 pafs the Streets with an air of hafte.^ and 
 a full trot upon broad flat Stones,betwix:t 
 high and large refounding Houfes, m^kes 
 a fort of Mufick which fhould feem very 
 agreeable to the Parij^ans, 
 
 The Royal Palaces are furprifingly 
 ftately ^ as the Louvre and Tnil/iries, Pa- 
 lais Luxembourg, PaUk Roj/al. 
 
 The Convents are great,and numerous, 
 and well built ^ as Val de Grace, St. Ger- 
 mains, St. Vi&or, St. Gene'vieve, the Grand 
 Jejuits, (^c. 
 
 The Squares are few in Park, but ve- 
 ry beautiful ^ as the Place Royal, Place 
 Vi&oir, Place Dauphitie, none of the largeft, 
 except the Place Vendofme, not yet fi- 
 niftid. 
 
 The 
 
A Journey to Paris, isyc. i t 
 
 The Gardens within the Walls, open 
 to the publick, are vaftly great, and very 
 beautiful ^ as the Tuillerks^ Palak Rojal^ 
 Luxembourg^ the Royal Phyjick^ Garden^ of 
 the Arfenal, and many belonging to Con- 
 vents, the Carthufians^ Celejims^ St. ViStor^ 
 St. Genevieve^ &c. 
 
 But that which makes the dwelling in 
 this City very diverting for People of 
 Quality, is the facility of going out with 
 their (loaches into the Fields, on every 
 fide 3 it lying round, and the Avenues 
 to it fo well paved 5 and the Places of 
 Airing fo clean, open, or fhady, as you 
 pleafe, or the Seafon .of the year, and 
 time of the day requires : As the Cour de 
 la Reym^ Bois de Bologne^ Bois de Vtn^ 
 cennes^ les Sables de Vaugerarde^ d^c. 
 
 But to defcend to a more particular 
 Review of this great City, I think it not 
 amifs to fpeak firft of the Streets and 
 publick Places, and what m^y be feen in 
 them : Next of the Houfes of Note 5 and 
 what Curiofities of Nature or Art, alfo 
 of Men and Libraries, I met with : Next^ 
 of their Diet and Recreations : Next of 
 the Gardens, and their Furniture and 
 Ornaments : Of the Air and Health, 
 We fhall conclude the whole with the 
 prefent State of phyfic and Pharmacy here* 
 
12 
 
 A Journey to Paris, isfc. 
 
 oaches. Xo begin with the Coaches, which are 
 very numerous here and very fine in 
 Gilding: But there are but few, and 
 thofe only of the great Nobility, which 
 are large, and have two Seats or Funds. 
 But what they want in the largenefs, 
 beauty, and neatnefs of ours in London^ 
 they have infinitely in the eafinefs of 
 Carriage, and the ready turning in the 
 narroweft Streets. For this purpofe, they 
 are all Crane-Neckt, and the Wheels be- 
 fore very low, not above two foot and 
 a half Diameter 5 which makes them ea- 
 fie to get into.and brings down the Coach- 
 Box low, that you have a much better 
 profpeft out of the foremoft Glafs 3 our 
 high feated Coachmen being ever in the 
 point of view. Again, They are moft, 
 even Fiacres or Hackneys, hung with 
 Double Springs, at the four Corners, which 
 infenfibly breaks all Jolts. This I never 
 was fo fenfible off, as after having pra- 
 ftifed the Fans Coaches for four months, 
 I once rid in the eafieft Chariot of my 
 Lords, which came from England 5 but 
 not a Jolt but what affeded a Man 5 fo 
 as to be tired more in one hour in that, 
 than in fix in thefe. 
 
 Befides the great number of Coaches 
 of the Gentry, here are Coaches de Re- 
 
A Journey to Paris, i£fc. 13 
 
 mtfe^ by the month 5 which are very well 
 Guilt, neat Harnefs, and good Horfes : 
 And thefe all Strangers Hire by the Day 
 or Month, at about Three Crowns Eng- 
 lifh a Day. 'Tis this fort that fpoils the 
 Hackneys and Chairs, which here are 
 the moft nafty and miferable Voiture 
 that can be 5 and yet near as dear again 
 as in Londof7^ and but very few of them 
 neither. 
 
 Yet there is one more in this City, 
 which I was willing to omit, as thinking 
 it at firft fight Scandalous, and a very 
 Jeft 5 it being a wretched Bufinefs in fo 
 Magnificent a City^ and that is, the 
 Vinegrette , a Coach on Two Wheels , 
 dragg d by a Man, and pufh'd behind by 
 a Woman or Boy, or both. 
 
 Befides thofe , for quick Travelling 
 there are great number of Pofi-Chaifes for 
 . a fingle Perfon ^ and RouUions for two 
 Perfons : Thefe are on two Wheels only, 
 and have each their Double Springs to 
 make them very eafie 5 they run Very 
 fwiftly : both the Horfes pull ^ but one 
 only is in the Thilles. The Coach-man 
 mounts the RonlUon ^ but for the Chaije^ 
 he only mounts the fide Horfe only. I 
 think neither of thefe ^re in ufe in E/^g- 
 land • but might be introduced to good 
 purpofe. 
 
 As 
 
14 ^ Journey to Pans, isc. 
 
 Recreati. for thcir Recreattons and Walks ^ there 
 
 waib.^ are no People more fond of coming to- 
 gether, to fee and to be feen. This 
 Converfation without doubt takes up a 
 great part of their time : And for this 
 purpofe, the Conr de la Reym is frequen- 
 ted by all People of Quality. It is a 
 Treble Walk of Trees of a great length, 
 near the River fide, the middle Walk ha- 
 ving above double the breadth to the two 
 fide ones 5 and will hold eight files of 
 Coaches, and in the middle a great open 
 Circle to turn, with fine Gates at both 
 ends. Thofe that would have better and 
 freer Air, go further, and drive into the 
 Bok de Bologne^ others out of other Parts 
 of the Town to Bops de Vincejtnes^ fcarce 
 any fide amifs. In like manner thefe 
 Perfons light and Walk in the Tuilleries^ 
 Lnxembourg^ and other Gardens, belong- 
 ing to the Crown and Princes, (all which 
 are very fpacious) and are made conve- 
 nient, with manj^ Sean for the Enter- 
 tainment of all People 5 the Lacquics 
 and Mob excepted 5 but of this more hete- 
 aften 
 
 Bip}s. People make a better figure 
 
 in the Town than the Bijfjops, who have 
 very fplendid Equipages, and variety of 
 fiine Liveries, being moft of them Men of 
 
 ^ great 
 
A Journey to Paris, is^c. 1 5 
 
 great Families , and preferred as fuch , 
 Learning not being fo necellary a Quali- 
 fication for thofe Dignities, as with us 5 
 tho' there are fome of them very De- 
 ferving and Learned Men. I fay. They 
 are moft Noblemen, or the younger Sons 
 of the beft Families. This indeed, is for 
 the Honour of the Church ^ but whether 
 it be for the good of Learning and Piety 
 is doubtful. They may be Patrons, but 
 there are but few Examples of Erudition 
 among them. Tis to be wiftit, that they 
 exceeded others in Merit, as they do in 
 Birth. 
 
 The Abbots here are numerous, from Abbots. 
 all Parts of the Kingdom. They make a 
 confiderable figufe, as being a gentile 
 fort of Clergy, and the moft Learned 5 
 at leaft were fo from the time of Cardi- 
 nal RichlieH^ who preferred Men of the 
 greateft Learning and Parts to thefe 
 Pofts 5 and that very frankly, and with- 
 out their knowing it before-hand, much 
 lefs folliciting him for it. He took a fure 
 way, peculiar to himfelf, to enquire out 
 privately Men of Defert, and took his 
 own time to prefer them. This filled 
 the Kingdom of France with learned 
 Men, and gave great Encouragement to 
 Study 5 whereof France yet has fome 
 feeling. 'Ji^ 
 
A Journey to Paris, is'c. 
 
 Signs in the 'Yis prctty to obfcrvc , how the King 
 Streets, DifcipUnes this great City, by fmall in- 
 ftances of Obedience. He caufed them 
 to take down all their Signs at once, and 
 not to advance them above a foot or two 
 from the Wall, nor to exceed fuch a 
 fmall meafure of fquare 5 which was 
 readily done : So that the Signs obfcure 
 not the Streets at all, and make little or 
 no figure, as tho' there were none 5 being 
 . placed very high and little. 
 
 Hajieh, There are great number of Hoflels in 
 Paris^ by which word is meant Fubltck^ 
 Inns^ where Lodgings are Lett 5 and alfo 
 the Noblemen and Gentlemens Houfes 
 are fo called, moftly with Titles over the 
 Gate in Letters of Gold on a Black Mar- 
 ble. This feems, as it were to denote, 
 that they came at firft to Paris as Stran- 
 gers only, and Inn d publickly 5 but at 
 length built them Inns or Houfes of their 
 own. Tis certain, a great and wealthy 
 City cannot be without People of Qua- 
 lity ^ nor fuch a Court as that of France 
 without the daily Infpedion of what fuch 
 People do. But whether the Country 
 can fpare them or not, I queftion. The 
 People of England feem to have lefs Man- 
 ners and lefs Religion, where the Gentry 
 ' ^ have 
 
A Journey to Paris, i9c^ i J 
 
 have left them wholly to themfelves ; 
 arid the Taxes are raifed with more dif- 
 ficulty, inequality, and injuftice, than 
 when the Landlords live upon the Def- 
 iilaines. 
 
 It may very well be, that ¥am is in cUy 
 a manner a new City within this 40 
 years.. Tis certain fince this King came 
 to the Crown, 'tis fo much altered for 
 the better, that 'tis quite another thing 5 
 and if it be true what the Workmen 
 told me, that a common Houfe built of 
 Rough Stone and Plaiftered over, would 
 not laft above 25 years, the greateft part 
 of the City has been lately rebuilt. Iri 
 this Age certainly moft of the great Ho- 
 ftels are built or re-edified 5 iri like man-^ 
 ner the Convents, the Bridges and 
 Churches, the Gates of the City 5 add 
 the great alteration of the Streets, the 
 Keyes upon the River, the Pavements 5 
 all thefe have had great additions, or are 
 quite new* 
 
 In the River amongft. the Bridges, both ^oatsupm 
 above and below, are a vaft number of ^ 
 Boats, of Wood, Hay, Charcoal, Corn 
 and Wine, and other Commodities. But 
 when a fuddenTHaw comes, they are often 
 in danger of bei ng fnlit and cruftit to pieces 
 / C upon 
 
i8 A Journey to Paris, is^c. 
 
 upon the Bridges 5 which alfo are fonie- 
 times ruined by them. There have been 
 great Lofles to the Owners of fuch Boats 
 and Goods. 
 
 It has been propofed to dig near the 
 City a large Bajfin for a Winter Har- 
 bour 5 but this has not had the face of 
 Profit to the Government 5 fo they are 
 ftill left to execute their own Projed, 
 There are no Laws or Projects fo effeftu- 
 al here, as what bring Profit to the Go- 
 vernment. Farming is admirably well 
 underftood here. 
 
 Lawyers. Amongft the Living Objeds to be feen 
 in the Streets of P^m, the Counfellors 
 and Chief Officers of the Courts of Ju- 
 ftice make a great Figure 5 They and their 
 Wives have their Trains carried up 5 fo 
 there are abundance to be feen walking 
 about the Streets in this manner. Tis 
 for this that places of that nature fell fo 
 well. A Man that has a right to qualifie 
 a Wife with this Honour, ftall command 
 a Fortune 5 and the carrying a great Vel- 
 vet Cufhion to Church is fuch another 
 bufinefs. The Place of a Lawyer is va« 
 lued a Third part dearer for this. 
 
 hiQuh. Here are alfo daily to be feen in the 
 Streets great variety oiMo?!!^^^ in ftrange 
 
 un- 
 
A Journey to Paris, i^c. 
 
 unufual Habits to us EngliJImen : Tliefe 
 make an odd Figure, and furnifli well a 
 Pifture. I cannot but pity the miftaken 
 Zeal of thefe poor Men 5 that put them- 
 felves into Religion, as they call it, and 
 renounce the World, and give them- 
 felves moft fevere Rules of Living and 
 Diet 5 fome of the Orders are decently 
 enough Cloathed, as the Jefuits, the Fa-^ 
 thers of the Oratory, &C'. but moft are 
 very particular and obfolete in their 
 Drefs, as being the Ruftic Habit of old 
 times, without Linnen, or Ornaments of 
 the prefent Age. 
 
 As to their Meager Diet, it is much 
 againft Nature, and the improved Diet 
 of Mankind. The Mofaic Law provided 
 much better for Jem^ 2i chofcn People 3 
 That was inftituted for cleanlinefs and 
 health. Now for the Chriftian Law, 
 though it commands Humility and Pa- 
 tience under Sufferings, and Mortificati- 
 on and Abftinence from Sinful Lufts and 
 Pleafures ^ yet by no means a diftin6t 
 Food, but liberty to eat any thing what- 
 foever, much lefs naftinefs 5 and the Pa- 
 pi fts themfelves in other things are of 
 this mind 5 for their Churches are clean, 
 pompoufly adorned and perfumed. Tis 
 enough, if we chance to fuffer Perfecu- 
 tion, to endure it with Patience, and all 
 
 C 2 the 
 
A Journey to Paris, isrc. 
 
 the miferable Circumftances that attend 
 it 3 but wantonly to perfecute our felves, 
 is to do violence to Chriftianity, and to 
 put our felves in a worfe ftate than the 
 Jemf were ^ for to ehoofe the worft of 
 Food, which is fowre Herbs and Fifh, 
 and fuch like Trafh, and to lie worfe al- 
 ways rough, in courfe and nafty Wool- 
 len ^ Frocks upon Boards 5 To go Bare- 
 foot in a cold Country, to deny them- 
 felves the Comforts of this Life, and 
 the Converfation of Men 5 This, I fay, 
 is to hazard our Healths, to renounce 
 the greateft Bleffings of this Life, 
 and in a manner to deftroy our felves* 
 Thefe Men, I fay, cannot but be in the 
 main Chagrin, and therefore as they are 
 out of humour with the World, fo 
 they mufi: in time be weary of fuch lla- 
 vifh and fruitlefs Devotion, which is not 
 attended with an aftive Life. 
 
 The great multitude of poor Wretches 
 in all parts of this City is fuch, that a 
 Man in a Coach, a-foot, in the Shop, is 
 not able to do any bufinefs for the num- 
 bers and iaiportonlties of Beggars ; and 
 to hear their Miferies is very lamentable 5 
 and if you give to one, you immediately 
 brino; a whole fwarm upon you. Thefe, 
 I fay, are true Monks, if you v/ilL of 
 God Almighties making, offering you 
 , ^ their 
 
A Journey to Paris, isf'c. 21 
 
 their Prayers for a Farthing, that find 
 the evil of the day fufficient for the 
 day, and that the Miferies of this Life 
 are not to be courted, or made a mock 
 of 5 Thefe Worfhip much againft their 
 will all rich Men, and make Saints of the 
 reft of Mankind for a Morfel of Bread. 
 
 But let thefe Men alone with their 
 miftaken Zeal 5 it is certainly God s good 
 Providence which orders all things in 
 this World. And the Flefh Eaters will 
 ever defend themfelves, if not beat the 
 Lenten Men 5 good and wholfome Food, 
 and plenty of it, gives Men naturally- 
 great Courage. Again, a Nation will 
 iboner be Peopled by the free Marriage of 
 all forts of People, than by the additio- 
 nal ftealth of a few ftarved Monks, fup- 
 pofing them at any time to break their 
 Vow. This limiting of Marriage to a 
 certain People only is a deduftion and an 
 abatement of Mankind, not lefs in a Pa- 
 pift Country, than a conftant War. A- 
 gain, this leflens alfo the number of 
 God's Worftiippers, inftead of multiply- 
 ing them as the Stars in the Firmament, 
 or the Sand upon the Sea Shoar 5 Thefe 
 Men wilfully cut off their Pofterity, 
 and reduce Gods Congregation for the fu- 
 ture* 
 
 C 3 There 
 
A Journey to Paris, i^c. 
 
 There is very little noife in this City 
 of PMick^ Cries of things to be fold, or 
 any Difturbance from Pamphlets and 
 Hawkers. One thing I wondered at, that 
 I heard of nothing loft, nor any pubhck 
 Advertifements, till I was fhewed Printed 
 Papers upon the Corners of Streets^ 
 wherein were in great Letters, Z)n^ Deux^ 
 Cinq J Dix jufq-^ a Cinquante Leuijfe agagner^ 
 that is, from One to Fifty Louifes to be 
 got ^ and then underneath an account of 
 what was loft. This fure is a good and 
 quiet w^ay ^ for by this means without 
 noife you often find your Goods again 5 
 every body that has found them repair- 
 ing in a day or two to fuch places. The 
 Gazettes come out but once a week, and 
 but few People buy them. 
 
 Tis difficult and dangerous to vend a 
 Libel here. While we were in Town, a 
 certain Perfon gave a Bundle of them to 
 a blind Man^ a Beggar of the Hofpital of 
 the ^lincevint^ telling him he might get 
 five pence for every penny 5 he went to 
 Nojiredame , and cried them up in the 
 Service time, La vie & Miracles de 
 Evefq:^ de Reims. This was a Trick that 
 was play'd the Archbiftiop, as it was 
 thought, by the Jefuits, with whom he 
 has had a great Conteft about Molinas the 
 §^an}Jh J. Docirims, The Libel went off 
 
 at 
 
A Journey to Paris, isfc, 23 
 
 at any Rate, when the firfl: Buyers had 
 read the Title further, and found they 
 wereagahifl: the prefent Archbifhop, Duke 
 and firft Peer of France, 
 
 The Streets are lighted alike all x\\t%mets 
 Winter long, as well when the Moon^^^^"''- 
 fhines, as at other times of the Month 5 
 which I remember the rather, becaufe of 
 the impertinent ufage of our People at 
 London, to take away the Lights for half 
 of the Montli, as though the Moon was 
 certain to fliine and light the Streets, and 
 that there could be no Cloudy Weather 
 in Winter. The Lanthorns here hang 
 down in the very middle of all the 
 Stcttts, about 20 paces diftance, and 20 
 foot high. They are made of a fquare 
 of Glafs about 2 foot deep, covered with 
 a broad Plate of Iron ^ and the Rope that 
 lets them down, is fecured and lockt up 
 in an Iron Funnel and little Trunk faft- 
 ned into the Wall of the Houfe. Thefe 
 Lanthorns have Candles of 4 in the pound 
 in them, which laft burning till after mid- 
 night. 
 
 As to thefe Liglits, if any Man break 
 them, he is forthwith fent to the Gallies^ 
 and there were 3 young Gentlemen of 
 good Families, who were in Prifbn for 
 Having done it in a Frolick, and could 
 
 C 4 not 
 
A Journey to Paris, h'c. 
 
 not be releafed thence in feme Months^ 
 and that not without the diligent Appli- 
 cation of good Friends at Court* 
 
 The Lights at Fark for 5 Months in 
 the year only, coft near ^0000 1. Sterlings 
 This way of Lighting the Streets is in ufe 
 alfo in fome other Cities in France. The 
 King is faid to have raifed a large Tax by 
 it. In the Preface to the Tax it is faid. 
 That confidering the great danger his Sub- 
 jefts were in, inWalkingthe Streets in the 
 Dark, from Thieves, and the breaking 
 their Necks by falls, he for fuch a Sum 
 of Money did grant this Priviledge, that 
 they might hang out Lanthorns in this 
 manner. 
 
 I have faid, that the Avenues to the 
 City, and all the Streets, are paved with 
 a very hard Sand Stone^ about 8 Inches 
 fquare 3 fo they have a great care to keep 
 them clean ^ in Winter, for Example, 
 upon the melting of the Ice, by a heavy 
 drag with a Horfe, which makes a quick 
 riddance and cleaning the Gutters 5 fo 
 that in a days time all parts of the Town 
 are to admiration clean and neat again to 
 walk on/ 
 
 I could heartily wifh their Summer 
 deanlinefs was as great 5 it is certainly 
 as neceflary to keep fo populous a City 
 " ^ ■ ■ * ' iweet 
 
( A Journey to Paris, ^e, 
 
 ^fweet 5 but I know no Machine fufficient, 
 )but what would empty it of the People 
 too 3 all the Threats and Infcriptions up- 
 on Walls are to little purpofe. The Duft 
 in London in Summer is oftentimes, if a 
 Wind blow, very troublefome. if not 
 intolerable ^ in Faris there is much lefs 
 of it, and the reafon is, the flat Stones 
 require little Sand to fet them faft, where- 
 as our fmall Pebles, not coming together, 
 require a vaft quantity to lay them faft 
 in Paving. 
 
 But from the People in the Streets, to Statues 
 the dead Ornaments there : There are an 
 infinite number of Bufto's of the Grand 
 Monarque every where put up by the 
 Common People 5 but the Noble Statues 
 are but few, confidering the Obfequious 
 Humour and Capacity of the People to 
 perform- 
 That in the Place-Vi^oire is a-foot in ' 
 Brafs all over gilt 5 with Fr&oire that 
 is, a vaft Winged Woman clofe behind 
 his Back, holding forth a Laurel Crown 
 over the Kings Head, with one Foot up- 
 on a Globe. There are great exceptions 
 taken at the Gilding by Artifts^ and, 
 indeed the fhining f^ems to fpoil the Fea- 
 tures, and give I know not what confu- 
 fion 3 it had better have been all of Go|d 
 
 bralled 
 
 25 
 
26 A Journey to Paris, is^c. 
 
 brafled over 5 which would have given 
 its true Lights and Shaddows, andfuf- 
 fered the Eye to judge of the proportions. 
 But that which I like not in this, is the 
 great Woman perpetually at the Kings 
 Back 5 which is a fort of Embarras, and 
 inftead of giving Viftory, feems to tire 
 him with her Company. The Roman 
 Vi&orie was a little Puppit in the Empe- 
 rours Hand, which he could difpofe of 
 at pleafure ^ This Woman is enough to 
 give a Man a Surfeit. 
 
 The other are Statm Equejlres, of 5 
 of the laft Kings of France, in Brafs a 
 Horfeback. 
 
 That on the 'Pont-muf is of Henry the 
 Fourth in his Armour bare^-headed, and 
 Habited as the l^lode of that time was. 
 
 The other of Lerois the Thirteenth in 
 the Place-Roj/al , Armed alfo after the 
 Mode of the Age, and his Plume of Fea- 
 thers on his Headpiece. 
 ^ The 3d is of this prefent King Louk 
 the Fourteenth, and defigned for the 
 Place Vendofme. This Colofliis of Brafs 
 is yet in the very place where it was caft 5 
 it is furprifingly great, being 22 foot 
 high, the Foot of the King 26 inches in 
 length, and all the proportions of him 
 and the Horfe fuitable. Therq was 
 100000 pound weight of Mettal melted, 
 
A Journey to Paris, isc. 
 
 but it took not up above 8ooco pounds 5 
 it was all caft at once, Horfe and Man. 
 Monf. Girardon told me, he wrought di- 
 ligently, and with almoft daily applica-- 
 tion at ^the Model 8 years, and there 
 were two years more fpent in the Mould- 
 ing, and Furnaces, and Carting of it. 
 The King is in the Habit of a Roman Em- 
 peror, without Stirrups or Saddle, and on 
 his Head a French large Periwig A4a- 
 piode. Whence this great Liberty of 
 Sculpture arifes, I am much to feek. 
 
 Tis true, that in building precifely^ to 
 follow the ancient manner and fimplici- 
 ty is very commendable, becaufe all thofe 
 Orders were founded upon good Prin- 
 ciples in Mathematicks 5 but the Cloath- 
 ing of an Emperor, was no more, than 
 the weak fancy of the People. For Louis 
 k Grand to be thus drefled up at the 
 head of his Army now a-days would be 
 very Comical. What nepd other Em- 
 blems , when Truth may be had ; as 
 though the prefent i^ge need be afhamed 
 of their Modes, or that the Statua E- 
 quejlris of Henry the Fourth, or Louk the 
 Thirteenth, were the lefs to be valued 
 for being done in the true Drefs of their 
 times. It feems to me to be the efFe61: of 
 Miftaken Flattery, but if regarded only 
 as ^ Piece of meer Art, it is nie-thinks 
 
 very 
 
A Journey to Paris, i$c. 
 
 very unbecoming, and has nb Graceful 
 Air with it 
 
 I remember I was at the Levee of King 
 Charles the Second, when 5 Models were 
 brought him, to choofe one of, in order 
 to make his Statue for the Court at Wind- 
 for • he chofe the Roman Emperours Drefs, 
 and caufed it alfo to be executed in that 
 other erefted for him in the Old Exchange 
 \n London. The like is of K. J. in White- 
 hall^ at Chelfey-CoUedge^ our Invalided. Now 
 I appeal to all Mankind, whether in re- 
 presenting a living Prince now a-days 
 thefe naked Arms and Legs are decent, 
 and whether there is not a barbarity very 
 difpleafing in it. The Father of thefe two 
 Kings, Charles the Firft, was the Prince 
 of this Age of the beft P^lif^, and of a 
 found Judgment,particularly in Painting, 
 Sculpture, Architedure by Sea and Land, 
 witnefs the vaft Sum of Money he be- 
 ftowed upon Rubens and his Difciple 
 Vandyke. Alfo the great Efteem he had 
 for the incomparable Inigo Jones^ who 
 was the firft EngUJhman in this Age that 
 underftood Building* I heard Auzout fay, 
 when he had viewed the Banquetting- 
 Houfe at Whitehall^ that it was preferable 
 to all the Buildings on this fide the Alpes 5 
 and I ought to believe him, he having 
 ^kxxdi^^ Vitruvius more than 40 years to- 
 gether 
 
A Journey to Paris, i^c. 
 
 gether moftly upon the place and at Rome. 
 Alfo the Ship the Sovereign^ which was truly 
 the Nobleft floating Caftle that ever fwam 
 the Sea. Yet after all this, that King had a 
 Statua Equeflrk of himfelf erefced^ now at 
 Charingcrofs^ caft in the full Habit of his 
 own time, and which I think may com- 
 pare with the beft of that fort at Park. 
 
 I fhould beg Leave in the next place 
 to vifit the Palaces and Men of Letters 
 and Converfation 5 but I muft take no- 
 tice firft of the vaft Expences that are 
 here in Iron Balaftrades, as in the Flace- 
 Rojal^ which Square is compafled about 
 with one of 10 foot high 3 Of this fort 
 and better there are infinite every where 
 in Park 5 which gives indeed a full view 
 of the beauty of their Gardens and 
 Courts. 
 
 Firft, therefore, I faw the Palak Mazarw^ P; 
 in which are nyany good Piftures, but the 
 Low Gallery is larniftit with a great Col- 
 ledion of Ancfent Greek, and Roman Sta- 
 tues, and is what 1 moft took notice of 3 
 They were moft brought from Rome by 
 the Cardinal. Thofe which are Togat£ and 
 Cloathed, are as they were found ; but 
 fuch as were made Nud£^ are miferably 
 difguifed by the fond Humour of the 
 Duke de Mazarin^ who in a hot Fit of De- 
 votion 
 
A journey to Paris, isc, 
 
 votion caufed them to be caftrated and 
 mangled, and then frocked them by a 
 fad Hand with I know not what Plaiftet 
 of Park^ which makes them very ridi- 
 culous. Cicero forhewhere tells us, that 
 fome of the ancient Wife Men thought 
 there was nothing naturally obfcene, but 
 that every thing might be called by its 
 own Name ^ but omulfus is of anothef 
 mind, and begs Pardon, being a Roman^ 
 that he writ of thofe Matters in his own 
 Tongue. Tis certain upon our Subjed, 
 the Duke fhould not have furniftit his 
 Cabinet and Gallery with Naked Pidtures, 
 but with the Togat£ only 5 or if it 
 had once pleafed him to do otherwife, he 
 Ihould not have Cloathed them 5 which 
 was at beft but a vain Oftentation of his 
 Chaftity , and betrayed his ignorance 
 and diflike of good things 5 that is, fpoils 
 and hides the noble Art of the Sculpture, 
 for which only they are valuable. 
 
 But why ftiould Nudity be fo ofFenfive, 
 fince a very great part of the World yet 
 defies Cloaths, and ever did fo 5 and the 
 parts they do moft afFed to cover, is from 
 a certain neceffity only. 
 
 Tis plain by thefe and many other E- 
 legant Statues I faw at Verfar/ks, moft of 
 which were taken, out hence, that the 
 Romau Cloathjng was the moft fimplc 
 
 thing 
 
A Journey to Paris, is^c. 
 
 thing Imaginable, and that a Romm was 
 as foon undrefled as I can put off my 
 Gloves and Shoes. The Men and Wo- 
 men went dreft much alike 5 As for the 
 faftiion of the Roman Habit, it is evident 
 by thefe ancient Statues, (which Ofif. 
 Ferrarim has well and reasonably fol- 
 lowed in explicating the feveral Garments 
 of the xA^ncients) that the Tunica or Shirt 
 was without a Collar or Sleeves, and 
 girt high up under the Breafts 5 alfo, th^t 
 the Toga or Gown was a wide and long 
 Garment open at both ends, and let 
 down over the Head, and fupported by 
 the Left Hand thruft under the Skirts of 
 it, whilft the top of it refted upon the 
 left Shoulder 5 The Right Hand and Arm 
 was naked, and above the Gown, fo that 
 the Gown was ungirt and always loofe. 
 Now for the purpofe, when a Roman 
 made himfelf naked for the Bath, (as he 
 daily did juft before eating) he had no- 
 thing to do but to draw up his Left Hand, 
 and the Gown fell down at his Feet 5 and 
 at the fame time to loofe the Girdle of 
 the Tunica, and to draw up both his 
 Arms from under the Tunica, and that 
 alfo fell at his Feet. 
 
 In the firft Ages of the Commonwealth 
 they wore a Toga or Gown only, after- 
 wards they put on next the Skin a Tunica 
 
 or 
 
A Journey to Paris, isrc. 
 
 or Shirt, and never added more in the 
 very Splendour and Luxury of the Em- 
 pire 5 all other Matters of Cloathing, of 
 what nature foever, have been invented 
 fihce. 
 
 I much admired, that in the gfeat 
 numbers of ancient Statues to be feen 
 in and about Paris^ I could never meet 
 any one but what was Cloathed with a 
 Toga pura^ and no reprefentation of a 
 Bullated one. 
 
 This Toga and Tunica both were made 
 of fine white Wooll, or Flannel : They 
 had not a Rag of Linnen about them* 
 This Flannel, I fay, was very fine, for 
 the folds are fmall, and it falls into them 
 eafily 5 and feems to be very light, by the 
 handling of it, to raife it by the Finger 
 and Thumb only, as is the Ai^ of fome 
 of the Statues, and the whole Garment 
 to be fufpeiided by the left Shoulder : 
 Upon the leafk ftraining of it, the Breads 
 and Nipples are vifible through it ; alfo 
 the proportions of the Thighs. 
 
 This wearing all Woollen in a hot 
 Country ,brought on the ufe and neceffity 
 of frequent Bathing, otherwife they could 
 never have kept themfelves fweet and clean^^ 
 and the nec-?ffity of Bathing kept them 
 to this fort of loofe Garment and much 
 Bathing brought in Oils, and Oils Per- 
 fumes infufed in them. But 
 
A journey to Paris. 
 
 But in my mind a fair Linnen Shirt 
 every d^y isasgreataprefervativeto Neat-^ 
 nefs and Cleanefs of the Skin and Health, 
 as daily Bathing was to the Romans. Tis 
 certain, had they not ufed either fimple 
 Oils of Olives, fometimes unripe and old, 
 for the aftrirlgency, and fontetimes ripe 
 and perfumed, the warm Wd.ter muft 
 have much decayed Nature, and made 
 the Skin intolerable tender and wrinkled. 
 The Naked Indians and Blacks fecure their 
 Skins by Oils at this day from all the in- 
 juries of: the Weather, both from Heat 
 and Cold^ 
 
 But the beft Rule of Health and long 
 Life is to do little to our felves : People 
 are not aware what inconvenieticies they 
 bring upon themfelves by cuftorii, how 
 they will plead for things long ufed, and 
 make that pleafant which is very deftrU- 
 ftive to their Healths 5 as in the Cafe of 
 Cloathing, Tobacco, Strong Waters, Steel 
 Remedies, the Drinking Mineral Waters, 
 Bathing, Tea, Coffee, Chocolate,^^^:. 
 
 One little Statue I took more particular 
 notice of, for the elegance of the Sculp- 
 ture, and the humour of the Drefs 5 it 
 ftood upon a Table 5 it was the Figure of 
 a Sybil : The Face of the old Woman 
 was cut very deep into the Stone, within 
 theQuoifure, like a Hood pulled over the 
 
 P Fore- 
 
34 ^ Journey to Paris. 
 
 Forehead, a very Emblem of an Oracle, 
 which is hid, dark, and ambiguous, as the 
 Woman her felf, who would have nei- 
 ther her Face feen, nor her Saying eafily 
 underftood^ that is, fhe is as it were 
 aihamed of her Cheat. 
 
 What was the fancy of the Men of the 
 firft Ages to make Old Women PropheteJ/es^ 
 to utter Oracles, and to interpret the Will 
 of the Gods by the eating of Ani- 
 mals. To make them Sag£ and Veneficd^ 
 is reafonable enough 3 for old Age makes 
 all People fpiteful, but more the weaker 
 Sex 5 To Poifon and Bewitch are the fe- 
 cret Revenges of Impotent People. 
 % The Jevps were impatient of the Com- 
 pany of Women in their Religious Rites, 
 left they fhould contaminate and fpoil all 
 their Devotion. The Romans on the con- 
 trary thought Religion became Women 
 better than Men, for befides the general 
 parts they had in common with the Men 
 in Adoration of their Gods^ they hadalfo 
 peculiar ones, where the Men were not 
 concerned. TnUy bids his Wife fuppli- 
 cate the Gods for him^ for he tells her, 
 he thought they would be kinder to her 
 than' him. Upon fome fuch Principle, 
 probably, their Prophetefles were in 
 efteem. 
 
 I 
 
A Journey to Paris* 
 
 i faw the Apartment of Monfieut Vi- ^ 
 Werjin the Arfenal 3 itconfifts in 7 or 8 ' 
 Ground Rooms looking into the great 
 Garden 5 Thefe Rooms are fmall, but 
 moft curioufly furnifht, and have in 
 them the greateft variety, and beft forted 
 China Ware I ever faw, befides Pagods 
 and Chim Figures. Alfo elegant and 
 rich Bureaus^ BookcCafes^ and fome Paint-* 
 ings of the beft Mafters. 
 
 That which pleafed me moft, amongft 
 the Paintings, were the Pieces of Ram- 
 bramts^ that incomparable D/^^^*^ Painter. 
 
 A Gid v\^ith a Cage in one Hand, and 
 looking up after the Bird that had got 
 out, and was flying away over her Head ; 
 She had Fright, Amazement, and Sorrow 
 in her Looks. The other is an unlucky 
 Lad leaning upon a Table, and looking 
 with Mifchief in his Eyes, or that he 
 watcht to do fome unhappy turn. The 
 §d is a young Gentleman in a Fur Cap 
 en dijhabille^ after his wonted manner. 
 The two firft are the moft natural Thoughts 
 and Drefs that can be ^ but nothing cer- 
 tainly ever came near his colouring for 
 Flefh and Garments : This part heftudied 
 paffionately all his Life,and was ever try- 
 ing Experiments about it 3 and with what 
 fuccefs, thefe and many other Pieces 
 fhew. 
 
 D :2 Thefe 
 
^6 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Thjefe Three Pidures of Rambrant are 
 all of young People, and are finiftit 
 with all the art and perfeftion of Co- 
 louring, as fmooth as any Limning ^ 
 which makes the Judgment of Fhilbkn of 
 him appear not juft, for he fitted his 
 Paint according to the Age and Nature 
 of the Subjects he wrought* I had the 
 pleafure of feeing them again and again. 
 
 M. h No^ Monfieur le Nofires Cabinet, or Rooms 
 wherein he keeps his fine things, the 
 Controller of the Kings Gardens, at the 
 fide of the TuiHenes^ was worth feeing* 
 ^ He is a very ingenious old Gentleman, 
 and the Ordinance and Defign of moft of 
 the Royal and great Gardens in and about 
 Par/f are of his Invention, and he has 
 lived to fee them in perfection. This 
 Gentleman is 89 years old, and quick and 
 lively. He Entertained me very Civilly. 
 There were in the 3 Appartments, into 
 which it is divided, (the uppermoft of 
 which is an Oftogon Room with a Dome) 
 2i great Collection of choice Pictures, 
 Porcellans, fome of which were Jars of 
 a nioft exraordinary fize^ fome old Ro- 
 man Heads and Bufto*s, and intire Sta- 
 tues 5 a great Collection oi Stamps very 
 richly bound up in Books ^ but he had 
 lately made a Draught of his belt Pictures, 
 
 to 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 to the value of 50C00 Crowns, and had 
 prefented them to the King at Verfailks. 
 There was not any thing of Natural Hi- 
 ftory in all his Cabinet. 
 
 I was feveral times with him, and 
 once he carried me into an upper Clofet, 
 where he had a great Colledion of Me- 
 dals in 4 Cabinets, moft modern^ a- 
 mongft them there were 4 large Drawers, 
 5 of which were the Medals of King 
 William^ near 500 ^ The 4th Drawer was 
 of King Williams Anceftors and Family 5 
 he had been 40 years in making this 
 Colleftion, and had purchafed many of 
 them at vaft Rates- He has certainly the 
 beft Furniture for an Hijloria metaUica^ 
 that I ever faw. The Frertch K. has a par- 
 ticular Kindnefs for him, and has greatly 
 inricht him, and no Man Talks with 
 more freedom to him 5 he is much de- 
 lighted with his Humour, and will fit 
 and fee his Medals, and when he comes 
 at any Medal that makes againft him, he 
 will fay, Sire^ voyla une^ qu eji bien centre 
 nous ! as though the Matter pleafed him, 
 and he was glad to find it to ftrew it the 
 King. Monfieur le Nojire fpoke much of 
 the good Humour of his Mafter 5 he af- 
 firmed to me he was never feen in Pafiion, 
 and gave me many Inftances of Occaficns, 
 that would have caufed nioft Men to 
 - : D 3 have 
 
p S A Journey to Paris. 
 
 have raged ^ which yet he put by with 
 all the Temper imaginable. 
 
 In this Cabinet I faw many very rare 
 old China Veflels, and amongft them a 
 fmal] Roman Glafs l)rn^ very thick made, 
 and ponderous, of a blue Sea colour, the 
 two Ears were Feet divided into 4 Claws, 
 but the very bottom of this Veflel was 
 fmooth, and very little umbilicate 5 and 
 for this reafon I cannot tell whether it 
 might not be caji^ and not blown. 
 
 Lupcm- The Palace of Luxemburgh is the moft 
 finifht of all the Royal Buildiiigs ^ it i§ 
 very magnificent, well defigned, were 1% 
 not for the triflng Interfeftions or round 
 and deep Jointings of the Columns, 
 w^hich looks like a Cheefemongers Shop, 
 and which is below the grandeur of theOr-^ 
 ders, fo hard a matter it is to havQa true Re- 
 lifh of the ancient Simplicity, and not to 
 add impertinent Ornaments. And to fay 
 the truth, there are not many things in 
 Taris where this Chaftity is ftridly pre- 
 ferved ^ amongft thofe, where little is to 
 be blamed, are the South Eaft Front oi 
 Xht Louvre^ tht Facade of aSj. Gervaky 
 and the w^hole Building of Val de Grace^ 
 And this Wantonnefs in additional Or-^ 
 naments may perhaps be one reafon, why 
 fhg f)m(: is more praftifed here at this; 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 day, tlie Modillions naturally admitting 
 greater variety, and according to the in- 
 tended life of the Building. 
 
 In this Palace is that famous Gallery, 
 where the Hiftory of Marui of Medick is 
 Painted by Rubens. Though this was 
 done 70 years ago, it is as frefh as at the 
 firft 3 fo great a Mafter he was in Colour- 
 ing. His Flefh is admirable, and his 
 Scarlet, for which, if he had not a fe- 
 cret, not now underftood, he had lefs 
 Avarice, and more Honour, than moft 
 of our Modern Painters. Tis certain 
 the goodnefs of Colours was one of the 
 great Cares and Studies of the late fa- 
 mous Painters^ and that which feems 
 moft to have obliged them to it, was the 
 neceflity they put themfelves upon, to 
 Paint all their own Defigns, and more 
 particularly the prefent Drefles. And 
 though Rnbens in his Hiftory is too much 
 a Libertine in this refpeft, yet there is in 
 this very place, which we now defcribe, 
 much truth in the habit of his principal 
 Figures, as of King Henry the Fourth, the 
 Queen, her Son, the 5 Daughters and the 
 Cardinal ^ though indeed the Allegoric 
 afliftants in all the Tableaux are very airy 
 and fancifully fet out. His Scholar 
 St. Ant. Vandyke did introduce this No- 
 velty too much in England^ where the 
 
 P 4 Per^ 
 
A Journey to Paris* 
 
 Perfons would bear it ^ as the Female Sex 
 were very willing to do, who feem in his 
 time to have been mighty fond of bein^ 
 Painted in difhabille. Twas this that cut 
 out of bufinefs the beft EngUJh Painter of 
 his time, Cormlius Johnfon^ and ftiortned 
 his Life by (jrief. It is certain with a 
 little patience all Drefs becomes difhabille ^ 
 but I appeal, whether it is not better and 
 much more pleafing to fee the ojd Faftiion 
 of a dead Friend, or Relation, or of a 
 Man of Diftindion, Painted as he was, 
 than a foppifli Night-Gown, and odd 
 Quoifure, which never belonged to the 
 Perfon Painted. 
 
 But that which led me into this Re- 
 fleftion was, that the Modern Painters 
 have hereby an opportunity to be idle, 
 and to have others to work under theni 5 
 it is fufficient to finilTi the Face, and to 
 fend it out tobeDreft at the Block ^ where- 
 as were they obliged in honour to Paint 
 the whole Dreflfes, this would make them 
 accurate in Colouring, through the great 
 variety which would daily occur, and 
 and that noble Art be in a far greater 
 efteem* ^ v - 
 
 A good Artift might eafily reduce it,, 
 ^nd c6mmarid the Purfes of thofe he 
 Paints, 'to pay well for Hjs labour and 
 iime, for it is the lot but of very few Meij 
 foexcdihthisNobleArt. - " ; ' ^ In 
 
A Journey to Paris. 41 
 
 In the Antichamber of the Queens 
 /Apartment the^e ?i.rc other Paintings of 
 Rnbens, as, in 5 diftind Tableaux, at the 
 upper end of the Room the Ceremonies of 
 the Marriages of her 5 Daughters, to 
 Savoy, Spain, and England, Alfo in an 
 other Hiftorical Tableaux, on the fide of 
 the fame Room, he has Painted his own 
 Picture, in a very free and eafie pofture, 
 next theEye, up in the very corner, look- 
 ing out, as unconcerned in his own Ta- 
 bleaux, upon the 3 Ladies. He has done 
 his Wife in fome of the Tableaux in the 
 great Gallery 5 but in the laft, where the 
 Queen is mounting up to Heaven, (he is 
 dr^wn up after her 5 but whether it be 
 her full and heavy Body, or her Mind, 
 (he is Painted in a very unwilling po- 
 fture, bending back : It feems her Huf- 
 band liked her Company too well to part 
 with her eafily, or (he with him. 
 
 Several of the Rooms of this Apart- 
 ment were Wainfcoted with Cedar, 
 wrought in Flowers, as her Dreffing 
 Room and Oratory ^ which is rare in 
 Park. The Floors were made of fmall 
 Wood put together in Figures, the in- 
 ward Knots were inlaid with Threads of 
 Silver, which have a marvellous effed 3 
 \)\it the firmnefs, duration, and intire- 
 nefs pf thefeFlopr^, after fo long laying, 
 
 Imoft 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 I moft admired : whereas with us in Lon- 
 don^ and elfewhere in P^rir, they prove 
 fo noify to tread on, and faulty, that they 
 are in a few years intolerable. 
 
 Tis pity the King has fo great an a- 
 verfion to the Louvre^ which if finifht, 
 (which he might eafily do in 2 or 9 years) 
 would be the moft Magnificent Palace, 
 perhaps, that ever was upon the Face of 
 the Earth 3 and, indeed, without that be 
 done, ¥am will never arrive at its full 
 Beauty. 
 
 There are two Stones' in the Fronton of 
 the South Eaft Facade of the Louvre^ 
 which are fhewed to all Strangers, co- 
 vering the very top of it, as Slates do, and 
 meet in an angle. Thefe are very big, 
 viz. 54 foot long a-piece, 8 foot broad, 
 and but 14 inches thick : The raifing fo 
 high thefe two vaft and tender Stones was 
 lookt upon as a Mafter-piece of Art, e- 
 quailing any thing of the Ancients of 
 that Nature. They were taken out of 
 the Quarries of Meudon^ where Mon- 
 feigneur the Dauphin dwells. 
 
 I faw in the Galleries of the Louvre fome 
 of the Battles of Alexander by Le Brun 3 
 which are by the French the moft admired 
 Pieces of Painting that have been (fay they) 
 done by any Man on this fide the Alpes^ 
 
 and 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 and of which they are not a little 
 proud. 
 
 Alfo a large Piece of Paulo Vereneje^ 
 prefented by the Senate of Venice to the 
 King. '^'^ 
 
 1 cannot pafs by unmentioned thevaft 
 number of great Cafes in one of the Gal- 
 leries, wherein are the P/^^/ things or Pup- 
 pets of the Dauphin, when a Child : 
 They reprefent a Camp in all its parts, 
 and coft 50000 Crowns. t 10 < 
 
 But, indeed, that which mod: furprifed 
 me in the Louvre was the ArteUier or 
 Work-houfe of Monfieur GerW^?//- he 
 that made Cardinal Richelieu s Tomh^ and 
 the Statuct Equejiris defigned for the Place 
 de Vendofme 5 he told me he had been al- 
 moft 10 years in making the Model with 
 affiduity and daily application. 
 
 He hath in the Louvre alfo two Rooms, 
 in one are ancient Marble Statues, and 
 in the other are Brafs Statues and Vafa^ 
 and a 100 other things relating to Anti- 
 quity : There is nothing in Park deferves 
 more to be feen. 
 
 In this laft, I faw a fort of Egyptian 
 Janus^ with Silenus on one fide, and a 
 Bacchm on the other 5 With many ci- 
 ther Egyptian Figures well defigned 5 all 
 of them with a hole in the Crown of the 
 Head- 
 
 Alfo 
 
A journey to Paris. 
 
 Alfo a Liou of JEgypt very large of 
 Brafs ^ but the defign rude, and more 
 Jike an Indian Pagod. This alfo had a 
 large fquare hole in the Back, near the 
 Neck. The Siamites that came in an Em- 
 baffiy to P^m, were well pleafed to fee 
 this Figure, and faid, it was not unlike 
 one of theirs ^ and that that hole ferved 
 to put the Incenfe in , that the Smoak 
 might come out of the Body and No- 
 ftrils of the Lion. I doubt not but that 
 alfo was the ufe of the open Crowns of 
 the reft of the Mgyptian Figures, which 
 I had feen elfewhere, as well as here 5 
 and their Heads ferved for Ver fuming 
 Pots for themfelves : and hence alfo 
 might arife, that other Ornament of P^a- 
 diated Heads 5 as this here, of a bright 
 Flame, cafting Rays out of and round 
 the Head. 
 
 There was alfo a fmall Image of a Lean 
 Man, Caft knt^ in a fitting Pofture, 
 with a roll of Parchment fpread open up-- 
 on his Knees, and he looking down upon 
 it, Reading it. This was of Solid Brafs^ 
 the Head and all : This was found in- 
 clofed in a Mummy. He feemed to have 
 a thin Linnen Garment on, perhaps fuch 
 as the Mgyptian Priefts ufed to wear. 
 
 Alfo he fhewed us the Mummy of a 
 Woman intire : The fcent of the Hand was 
 
 to 
 
A Journey to PariS; 
 
 to me not unpleafant 5 but I could not 
 liken it to any Perfume now in ufe with 
 us ; tho' I make no queftion, but Naptha, 
 was the great Ingredient 3 which indeed 
 is fo unufual a Smell, that the Minerd 
 Waters of Hogsden near London^ (wherein 
 the true Naptha is Subftantially, and of 
 which I have fome Ounces by me, ga- 
 thered off of thofe Waters) have impofed 
 upon the ignorant in Natural Hiftoty 3 
 who would make them come from a chance 
 Turpentine Effuficn, or the Mifcarriage 
 of a Chymical Experiment. 
 
 Here were alfo great variety of Z)rm 
 and Funeral Vafa of all Materials and 
 Fafhions. 
 
 Alfo an antient Writwg^Pen coiFd up, 
 with two ends ereded both a-like, repre- 
 fenting the Head of a Snake. 
 
 The Antient Heads and Bufto's in Brafs 
 are numerous and of great value* This 
 Gentleman is exceeding Courteous to all 
 Strangers ^ efpecially to fuch as have the 
 leaft good reliih of Things of this Na- 
 ture, to whom he (hews them gladly. 
 It cannot be otherwife, that a Man Edu- 
 cated in that Noble Art of Sculpture, 
 who (hall daily ftudy fo great a variety 
 of Originals of the beft Mafters, but muft 
 far excell the reft of Mankind, who pra- 
 ftife without good Example, and by 
 fancy moftly. 1 
 
4^ 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Monfieur I was to fee Monfieur Boudelot^ whofe 
 BQudeiet. pj-iendfhip I highly value : I received 
 great Civilities from him. He is well 
 known by his Books about the Utility of 
 Voyages : He has a very choice and large 
 Colleftion of Books of Greek and Roman 
 Learning. I made him feveral Vifits, 
 and had the pleafure of perufing his Ca- 
 binet of Coins, and miall Images of 
 Copper, which are many and of good 
 value ^ as JEgyptian^ Fhrygian^ Grecian^ 
 and Roman. 
 
 Amongft his JEgjiptian^ the moft cu- 
 rious was a Deus Crepitus of admirable 
 Workmanfhip, with a Radiated Crown : 
 It was an Mthyopian^ and therefore be- 
 fpoke its great Antiquity , for they very 
 ufually reprefented their Kings under the 
 Figures of their Gods. 
 
 There was alfo the Skeleton of a Wo- 
 man of folid Copper, found in the Body 
 of a Mummy, in a fitting Pofture ^ not 
 unlike that other mentioned above in 
 Monfieur Girardons Clofet. 
 
 An Apk or a Heifer in Copper. 
 A Phrygian Friapus of Elegant Work-^ 
 manfhip : The Phrygian Cap pointed and 
 hanging down behind, as our Caps in 
 DiJbabiUte are now worn. 
 
 Of 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Of all which, and many more, this 
 Learned Antiquary intends to write. 
 
 In his Cabinet of Medals I could not 
 find one of Palmyra^ for which I care- 
 fully enquired 5 for I was willing to add 
 what could be found in France upon this 
 Subjed. 
 
 He has alfo many Marbles from Greece 5 
 moft of which have been publifh'd by 
 Spon 5 fave one, and that is the moft 
 Antient and moft Curious of all 5 con- 
 cerning which he is ready to publifti a 
 Diflertation. Tis a Catalogue in Three 
 Columns, of the Names of the moft 
 principal Perfons of Ere^heis^ one of the 
 chiefeft Tribes of Attica^ that were killed 
 in one and the fame year in five feveral 
 Places, where the Athenians fought under 
 two Generals, as in Cyprus^ in Mgypt^ in 
 Thmitia^ in lEgina^ in Halies. Here are 
 177 Names in the 3 Columns. See Table L 
 
 The Mantis clofes the Column, he di- 
 ed in JEgypt^ that is, the Phyfician 5 Ma- 
 gick and Phyfick went together in thofe 
 days 5 nay , the very Comedians and 
 Poets,thofe necellaryMen of Wit, fought, 
 for none were exempt from being InrolFd 
 that were Born in the Kingdom or Re- 
 publick of Attica. 
 
 Tlie 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 The Antiquity of this Marble, befides 
 the known Hiftory and Names which ju- 
 ftifie the time of thofe Men : The Figure 
 of the Letters are an undoubted Argu- 
 ment 5 for there are no double Letters 
 here 5 no «, no but all graved with 
 e, o ^ alfo the Letters, l, p, ri, r, are 
 very Roman. So that it is alfo an Evi- 
 dence, that the Romans borrowed their 
 Letters from the Antient Greek Alpha- 
 bet. 
 
 The Invention and Borrowing of Let- 
 ters was a great Happinefs to Mankind. 
 The Embarras in which Writing is in 
 China^ is owing to the Misfortune of 
 wanting an Alphabet 5 fo that the Chinefi 
 ate forc'd to exprefs every Sentence and 
 Thought by a different Charafter, which 
 has multiplied their Writing to 1 20000 
 Charafters 5 of which yet they have lefs 
 need than we in Europe, who perform 
 all with 24 Letters, (whereof 5 add life 
 to the other 19, faith Hippocrates, which 
 is an Argument of the Age he writ in, 
 the Knowledge of Grammar, /. e. Read- 
 ing and Writing , depends upon feven 
 Figures, de Dieta. i.) the Chinefes know 
 much lefs than we 5 they have no other 
 Morals,they have lefs Philofophy,lefsMa- 
 thematicks, fewer Arts,and yet much nar- 
 rower Knowledge of Natural Hiftory, be- 
 
 caufe 
 
A JoUYtiey to Pafis. 
 
 caiife they can know but of that, which 
 they have at home: In what therefore 
 ftiould they employ this multitude of 
 Characters ! Tis, I fay, their Misfortune 
 not to have Thought of an Alphabet : 
 Their common Language is as eafily learnt, 
 and confequently might as eafily be writ^ 
 as any in Europe* 
 
 But to return to Monlietir Budelofi 
 Stores. In this Cabinet I alfo faw fome 
 BaJJe-Relkves : One of Praxiteles w^ell de« 
 figned : one of Mujos the Comcedian : 
 Amongft the reft of the Marbles there is 
 a Balle-Relief^ very extant, and finely fi- 
 nifht, of a Cupid afleep , leaning his 
 Head upon his Left Arm 5 In his Hand 
 he holds two Popp}i Heads. Tis probable 
 the Poppies were Emblimatique from the 
 Power they have in Love-Affairs. In- 
 deed, moft Poifons afFed thofe Parts 
 chiefly, being the great Sluce of the Ha- 
 bit of the Body, or Circle of the Blood :i 
 and no People ufe Poppy more, and 
 ftand more in need of it, than the Men 
 who delight in Polygamy, the Mahome- 
 tan^ or underftand it better 5 as Oleari/0 
 teftifies. 
 
 He had an Antick Bujio of Zenobia 
 in Marble, with a thick Radiated Crown 5 
 of which he very obligingly g^ve me a 
 
 E " ' Copy^ 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Copy, well defigned from the Original : 
 This was brought out of Ajia by Mon- 
 fieur Thevemt. 
 
 He ftiewed me a Dtjferution he had 
 written out fair for the Prefs , about a 
 certain Antient htaglia of Madames^ of 
 Ptolom£us Auletes^ or the Player upon the 
 Flute : In this the thin Mufler is the moft 
 remarkable Thing , which covers the 
 Mouth and Nofe. This Head is Ingraved 
 upon an Amithyft, 
 
 I enjoyed this Gentleman's Company 
 very often ^ and had much Difcourfe 
 with him about his Books of the Utility 
 of Voyages - and in one Converfation took 
 the freedom to Diffent from him about 
 the Interpretation of that Coin in Mon- 
 (ieur Seguin^ which he calls Britannick; 
 
 Monfieur Boudelot reads it thus, Jovi 
 ViSori Satttr?ialia lo! or Jovi ViSforia 
 Sat. lo! 
 
 I had rather read it thus,7(^/ Sat.Vi&ori£ 
 lo! upon the occafion of his returning 
 with the Souldiers, filling their Head- 
 Pieces with the Shells they had gathered 
 off of the Sea-fhore ^ and the little ufe 
 of his new invented Letter the Digamma^ 
 which he inftituted or borrowed from 
 the EoUfie to exprcfs V Confonant. 
 
 The 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 The Shells were a Triumph much like 
 this fmall addition to the Alphabet * 
 which lafted no longer than his time : 
 that is, Vt&^ory enough^ (for fo.ftupid a 
 Prince as Claudius) Let's return with the 
 Spoils of the Ocean, and Adorn his new 
 invented Letter with a Palm-Branch ^ the 
 Reverfe of this Coin being a Lawrel-^ 
 Crown : Both the Signs of Vi6i:ory. 
 
 About the Boujirophedon way of Wri- 
 ting, mentioned by Smdas and Panfamas^ 
 or turning again as the Ox Plows , or 
 the Racers about the Meta in the Cirque 
 my Opinion it could be nothing elfe, but 
 the Serpentine manner of Writing found 
 in SwedeUndm Runique Letters. 
 
 He fhewed me alfo a Stone taken late- 
 ly out of the Body of aHorfeatP^m, 
 which was his Death 5 and dying ftrange- 
 ly, they Difleded him, that is, certain 
 Ignorant People^ in the lower part of the 
 Body, (probable the Bladder) was found 
 this Stone : It weighs, as I guefs, two 
 Pound 5 it is as round as a Cannon Ball 3 
 it is laminated like an Onion 5 for the 
 firft Couche was broken up in fome Places, 
 of a dark Hair colour, and tranfparent ^ 
 or like fome Cloudy Agats which I have 
 feen: It was very ponderous. Such like 
 Tranfparent Stones I had a Patient voided 
 often in Torkjhirc. I faw another Tranf- 
 
 E 2 parent 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 parent one, which was cut out of the 
 Buttock of an Alderman at Doncafler 5 
 he was twice cut in the fame place, at 
 feme years diftance. Another I had in 
 fome meafure tranfparent, voided by a 
 Patient, which was of the very colour of* 
 a Coftee-Berry when burnt ^ but of this 
 Stone Monfieur Bondelot writ me a Let- 
 ter before I left Parky which I defign to 
 publifh. 
 
 I was by Invitation from Monfieur 
 Cajfim at the Obfervatoire Royal^ built on 
 a rifing Ground juft without the City 
 Walls 5 This Building is very fine, and 
 great Art is ufed in the Vaulted Cut 
 Roofs and Winding Staircafes. The 
 Stones are laid infide, outfide, with the 
 moft regularity I ever faw in any Mo- 
 dern Building 5 In all this Building there 
 is neither Iron nor Wood, but all firmly 
 covered with Stone, Vault upon Vault. 
 The Platform a-top is very fpacious, and 
 gives a large and fair view of all Park^ 
 and the Countrey about it ^ it is Paved 
 with Black Flint in fmall fquares, which 
 I make no doubt are fet in Cement or 
 Tarras., that is, the Pulvk Pttteolanus. 
 
 We were (hewed a Room well furniftit 
 with Models of all forts of Machines ^ 
 and a very large Burning Qlafs^ about 5 
 
 foot 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 foot diameter, which at that time of the 
 year, vt%>. in the beginning of February^ 
 did lire Wood into a flame, in the very- 
 moment it came into and paft through the 
 Focus. 
 
 I was indifpofed, and fo could not ac- 
 cept of the Favour which was offered me 
 of feeing the Moon in their Telefcopes 5 
 and to go down into the Vault, which 
 was contrived for feeing the Stars at Noon- 
 tide, but without fuccefs. I was told by 
 Monfieur Roman afterwards, that there 
 was a Rock formed in the Cave by the 
 dropping of a Spring of Petrifying Wa- 
 ter ^ of which Nature are all the Wells 
 in Park. 
 
 In the Flore of one of the Oftogone 
 Towers they have defigned with great 
 accuratenefs and neatnefs with Ink an 
 Univerfal Map in a vaft Circle. The North- 
 pole is in the Center. This is a Cor- 
 rection of other Maps upon the latcftand 
 beft Obfervations. 
 
 His Nephew Monfieur Af^?r^/^/ was with 
 him ^ as for his onlji Son, he was in Lon- 
 don at that time: I afterwards was with 
 him at his Fathers, a very hopeful young 
 Gentleman, and well inftruded by his 
 Father in the Mathematicks, and all o- 
 ther ufeful Learning. 
 
 E 5 The 
 
54 
 
 A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Triumphal Xlic Triumphal Arch out of the Gate of 
 •^^^ ' St. Antoine is well worth feeing ^ for in this 
 the French pretend not only to have imi- 
 tated the Ancients, but to have out-done 
 them. They have indeed, ufed the great- 
 eft Blocks of Stone that could be got, and 
 have laid them without Mortar, and the 
 leaft fide outward, after the manner of the 
 Ancients 5 but I am afraid their Materials 
 are very {hort of the Roman^ and their 
 Stone is ill chofe, though vaftly great. 
 
 Indeed the Dejign is moft Magnificent 5 
 it is finifhtin Plaijier, that is, the Model 
 of it, in its full Beauty and Proportions. 
 
 I fuppofe it was intended for a Gate or 
 Entrance into the City 5 for it fronts the 
 great Street of the Suburbs, and has a 
 vaft Walk planted with Trees leading 
 from it towdixdiS Bois deVincennes. 
 . r There is nothing more built but the 
 four Parts of the Foundation of the true 
 Building, raifed only to the foot of the 
 Pedeftals ; The Foundation is laid 22 
 foot deep, 
 
 Amongft the vaft Blocks of Stone, 
 which take up a great compafs before 
 the Building, I found feveral forts, all 
 brought from the Quarries not far from 
 park all of them are of a kind of 
 roiirfe Grit, which will not burn into 
 
 Lime. 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Lime. They diftinguifti thefe Stones in- 
 to 4 forts 5 I. Pierre d'arcneil^ for the firft 
 2 or 3 couches or lays above the Foun- 
 dation 5 This is the beft, and hardeft of 
 all. 2. That of St. CIoh^ which is good, 
 and the next beft. I did not find by the 
 Blocks defigned either for the Walls of 
 the Building ^ or the Rounds of the Pil- 
 lars 3 that the Beds of Stone of St. Clou 
 are above two foot thick. 5. That of 
 S. Lieu 5 this is but indifferent, but yet 
 much better then that Stone which is 
 taken up out of the Stone Pits, in and 
 about Paris ^ which makes the 4th fort of 
 Stone : If it be wrought up into Walls, 
 as it is taken out of the Pits^ it is very 
 apt to be flawed by the Froft 5 but if it be 
 laid in the Air, and kept under cover for 
 two years, then it becomes dry and more 
 durable. 
 
 I faw but one Piece in Paris of the 
 Ruines of an Old Roman Building 5 it was 
 in La Rue de la Harpe. The Vaults are 
 very high and large. The manner of 
 Building is near the fame 1 formerly 
 caufed exadly to be figured and defcribed 
 at Tork^, and which is publifht in the Phi- 
 lofophic Tranfaytions 5 That is , the infide 
 and outfide of the Walls are compofed of 
 fix Rows of fmall fquare Stones, and then 
 4 rows of flat, thin and broad Roman 
 
 JE 4 Bricks^ 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Bricks J and fo alternatively from the top 
 to the bottom Which makes it proba- 
 ble it was built after Severuss time, for 
 this was the African manner of Building, 
 as Vitrumus tells us ; and therefore might 
 well be, what Tradition here fays of it, 
 vi%. part of ^nlian the Emperor s Palace, 
 or Therm£. 
 
 St. Inrtocents Church-Tard^ the publick 
 Burying-place of the City of Park for a 
 loco years, when intire (as I once faw 
 it) and built round with double Galleries 
 full of Skulls and Bones, was an awful 
 and venerable fight ^ but now I found it 
 in Ruines, and the greateft of the Galle- 
 ries pulled down, and a Row of Houfes 
 built in their room, and the Bones re- 
 moved I know not whether ^ The reft of 
 the Church-Yard in the moft neglefted 
 and naftieft pickle I ever faw any Confed- 
 erated place. 'Tis all one, when Men, 
 even the Roman Catholicks have a mind, 
 or 'tis their intereft, to unhallow things or 
 places, they can do it with a good fto- 
 mach^ and leave the Tombs of Chan- 
 cellors and other great Men without 
 Company or Care. What no body gets 
 by, no body is concerned to repair 3 but 
 'tis ftrange amongft fo many millions of 
 dead Men, not one Wonder-working 
 Saint fhould ftart up to preferve it felf 
 
A Journey to Paris- 5jr 
 
 and neighbours from Contempt and Scan- 
 dal. That fo much Holy Earth, brought, 
 as 'tis faid, fo far off, ftiolld never pro- 
 duce^e Saint, but rather fpue up all its 
 Inhabitants, to be thus ftiuffled and diffi- 
 pated* 
 
 Amongfk the many Cabinets of Fork bm. 
 there is nothing finer than the Colledion 
 of Monfieur BucOjGad-eroks du Parlement. 
 You pafs through a long Gallery, the 
 one fide of which is a well furniftied Li- 
 brary, and alfo well difpofed in Wired 
 Cafes. This Gallery leads into two Rooms 
 very finely adorned with Pidures, Vafa s. 
 Statues and Figures in Brafs, China, and 
 the famous Ennamel Veflels, formerly 
 made in Foitu^ which are not now to He 
 had 5 and a thoufand other curious 
 things. 
 
 I very particularly examined his large 
 quantity of Shells^ confifting in near 60 
 Drawers. There were indeed very many 
 of a fort, and not many but what I hai 
 feen before, and figured 5 He very oblig- 
 ingly lent me thofe I had not feen, to 
 have the defigns of them done. He had 
 many very perfect and large ones of Land 
 and Frefti W^tcvBuccim • but yet a great 
 number were wanting of thofe very Tribes 
 pf what I have publiftit 
 
 Here 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Here were alfo 2 or 3 very fair ones of 
 diat fort of compreft Snail, which have 
 tfieir Tail on the fame fide with their 
 Mouth 5 and the Vulgar Name, by which 
 thofe Men of Cabinets diftinguifti them, is 
 not amifs, viz. Des Lampes. 
 
 He fhewed me a Bivalve, which is not 
 
 ' uncommon (in a large Blood red Spondile) 
 for which the late Duke of Orleans gave 
 900 Livres, which is above 50/. Sterling:, 
 and he alfb affiired me, that the fame Per- 
 foQ ojffered aPariJianfox: 32 Shells iiooo 
 Livres ; which Sum was refufed 5 but the 
 Duke replied. That he knew not who 
 was the greater Fool, he that bid the 
 Price, or the Man that refufed it. 
 
 'l alfo faw in this CoUedion an Hippo- 
 tampm about 4 inches long, the Tail 
 fquare, thick Bellied and Breaft like a 
 miUer Tbnmb^ Winged not unlike a fort 
 of Flying Fifh, but the Fins were fpoiled, 
 the Membranes being torn from the Bones 
 
 ^ of the Wings, the Head long and fquare 
 like the Tail, with a fort of tufted Mufle. 
 This Fifh I took to be of the Hippocampus 
 Kind 5 and (as he told me) it was given 
 him by my Lady Port/mouthy poffibly out 
 of King Charles s Colledion^ who had 
 many curious Prefents made him (as one 
 of Shells from the States of Holland, ma- 
 ny of which I have feen in other Hands) 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 but he fuffered them all to be diflipated 
 and loft. 
 
 Here alfo was a Vefpetum Canadenfe of a 
 moft elegant Figure, and admirable Con- 
 trivance 5 of which I have a Drawing. 
 This is intire in all its parts 5 it is as big 
 as a middle-fized Melon, Pear-fafhion, 
 with an edge running round where it is 
 thickeft, from which edge it fuddenly 
 declines and leflens into a point 5 at the 
 very end of the point, on one fide, is a 
 little hole, with pulvinated or fmooth 
 edges inclined inward 5 otherwife it is 
 whole, and wrought upon the Twig of a 
 Tree, of a very fmooth Sattin-like Skin. 
 Table I. Figure i. 
 
 Alfo the Striated Skin of an African 
 Afs, fupple and well cured, which I had 
 never feen before. It is certainly a moft 
 beautiful Animal 5 and, I admire, after 
 fo many Ages that it has beea known to 
 the People of Europe^ it could never be 
 Tamed, and made of common ufe, as 
 the reft of the Horfe Kind. This was 
 only of two colours, viz. broad lifts of 
 White and Bay or Chefnut colour drawn 
 from the Back down the Sides to the Bel- 
 ly, which was all White : The lifts were 
 parted at the Back by a very narrow ridge 
 of fhort Hair 5 which Lifts alfo went 
 found the Legs like Garters. The Hair 
 
 coloured 
 
6o A Journey to Paris. 
 
 coloured Stripes of the African Afs 
 were, near the Back, 3 or 4 Fingers broad, 
 alfo the Lift down the Back was very 
 broad. 
 
 Another Skin of a Cap- Afs I after- 
 wards faw at Dr. Turnfords ^ and 
 the Stripes were the fame, but mueh 
 broader and darker coloured ^ it may be 
 from the different Ages. This fort of 
 Striping feems to be peculiar to the Afs, 
 for the moft common to be feen with us 
 have all a Black^LlJi down the Back ^ and 
 two more, that is, on each fide one, run^ 
 ning down the Shoulders. 
 
 Df- Tmt' I faw Monfieur Tumforfs Colleftion of 
 Shells, which are well chofen, and not 
 above one or two of a fort 5 but very 
 perfeft and beautiful, and in good order, 
 confifting of about 20 Drawers. 
 
 There \j/as amongft them a very large 
 Land Shelly the fame which I have fi- 
 gured from the Mufm^ at Oxford^ having 
 its turn from the right hand to the left. 
 
 ^ Alfo many very excellent and large Pa- 
 
 terns of other Land Snails 5 alfo a Frefh- 
 water Mujfel fromBrafil^ which I had never 
 feen before 5 a Pair of them he gave me 5 
 and many Species of Frefti-water Bnceina 
 from the Carribe Iflands. Alfo an Auris 
 Marina Sftjjk echinata^ which was new to 
 me, Amongft 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Amongft the Shells the Thim Oijler^ 
 which (bines within like Mother of Pearl, 
 and has in the uppermoft end of the flat 
 Valve, near the Hinge, a Hole. Thefe he 
 brought with him, and took them up 
 alive, from the Rocks in Spain ^ he faid 
 they were very offenfively bitter to the 
 tafte. Thefe being perfect, I had the op- 
 portunity of feeing that Hole (hut with a 
 peculiar and third Shell, of the fafliion 
 of a Pouch or Shepherds Purfe. 
 
 I (hall fay nothing of his vaft Colledti- 
 on of Seeds and Fruits, and dried Plants, 
 which alone amount to 8000, and in 
 this he equals, if not excells all the moft 
 curious Herborifts in Eyrope. His Her- 
 borifations about Paris he gave me to car- 
 ry for England^ juft then Printed ofF^ 
 alfo he fhewed me the Defigns of about 
 ICO European Non Defcript Plants^ in 8vo. 
 which he intends next to publifh. 
 
 He alfo Ihewedme 10 or 12 fingle Sheets 
 of Vellom, on each of which were Paint- 
 ed in Water Colours very lively, one 
 fingle Plant, moftly in flower, by the 
 beft Artift in Paris, at the King s Charge 5 
 Thofe are fent to VerfaiUes, when the 
 Doctor has put the Names to them, and 
 there kept : In this manner the King has 
 above 2000 rare Plants, and they work 
 daily upon others : The Limner nas two 
 Louis's for every Plant he Paints- I 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 I faw there alfo the Vefpetum Canadenfe 
 Maximum^ about 12 inches long, and 6 
 in diameter 5 of a Pear fafhion ^ it hangs 
 by a long and broad loop to the Twig of 
 a Tree ^ The broad or lower end is a little 
 pointed, and rifing in the middle ^ The 
 outward Skin is as fmooth as Velom, 
 and of a whitifli grey, next to the Pearl 
 colour. The Button at the bigger end in 
 this being broken, and the outward Skin 
 pilled off, I could fee a hole of about 
 half an inch diameter in the very 
 middle, into which the Wafps go in 
 and out 5 The Cells are fexangular, but 
 of a very fmall fize, not much bigger 
 then a Duck Quill, or very fmall Goofe 
 Quill 5 and confequently appear very 
 thick fet and numerous. See the Figure 
 above. 
 
 He ftiewed me alfo a very great Jtdus 
 from Brafil^ at leaft fix inches long, and 
 two about, round like a Cord, very 
 fmooth and ftiining, of a kind of Cop- 
 per or Brazen colour 5 The Feet infinite, 
 like a double Fringe on each fide : This 
 he had from F. Plumer^ who after- 
 wards gave me a Defign of it drawn by 
 the Life, and in its proper colours. 
 Table 5. 
 
A Journey to Paris. l^3 
 
 Dr. Turnfort (hewed me aPrefent whidi 
 was made him by his Country Man of 
 Provewe^ Monfieur Bojieur dJgmlles^ of a 
 large Book in Folio of curious Stamps. 
 This is only the firft part of his Cabinet, 
 all Graved at the Author s Charge 5 and 
 he is faid to be another Peiresk,^ whkh 
 would be happy for Mankind, and a great 
 Honour to that Country to have produced 
 two Mcecems in one Age. 
 
 I was to fee Monfieur Vemey at his A-nmj^ 
 partment at the upper-end of the Royal 
 Phyfick Garden 5 but miffing my Vifit> 
 went up, with a young Gentleman of 
 my Lord Ambafladof s Retinue, to fe 
 Mr. Bennis^ who was in the Dillefting 
 Room, working by himfelf upon a Dead 
 Body, with his Breaft and Belly gutted : 
 There were very odd things to be feen 
 in the Room. My Companion, it being 
 morning, and his Senfes very quick and 
 vigorous, was ftrangely furprifed and 
 offended 5 and retired down the Stairs 
 much fafter than he came up : And in- 
 deed, a private Anatomy Room is to one 
 not accuftomed to this kind of Manufa* 
 fture , very irkfome , if not frightful : 
 Here a Basket of Di&ding Inftruments^ 
 as Knives, Saws, &c. And there a Form 
 with a Thigh and Leg flayed, and the 
 
 Mufcles 
 
6^ A Journey to TaA 
 
 Mufcles parted afunder : On another Forni 
 an Arm ferved after the fame manner r 
 Here a Trey full of Bits of Flefti, for the 
 more minute Difcovery of the Veins and 
 Nerves 5 and every where fuch difcou- 
 raging Objefts. So, as if Reafon, and 
 the good of Mankind did not put Men 
 upon this Study , it could not be en- 
 dured : for Inftind and Nature moft cer- 
 tainly abhors the Employment* 
 
 Monfieuc J faw Monfieur Merrie^ a moft painful 
 ^^'^'^^ and accurate Anatomift , and free and 
 communicative Perfon, at his Houfe Rue 
 de la Frincejfe. His Cabinet confifted of 
 two Chambers : In the outward were 
 great variety of Skeletons 5 alfo entire 
 Preparations of the Nerves 5 in two of 
 which he (hewed me the miftake of Willis^ 
 and from thence gathered, that lie was 
 not much ufed to Difled with his own 
 Hand : The Pia Mater coating the Spinal 
 Nerves but half way down the Back, 
 Where it ends : The Dura Mater coating 
 the lowermoft 20 pair ^ which, Willis^ 
 (as he faid) has otherwife reported. 
 
 But that which much delighted my 
 Curiofity, was the Demonftration of a 
 blown and dried Heart of a Faetus 5 alfo 
 the Heart of a Tortoije. 
 
 In 
 
A Jojirney to Paris. 
 
 In the Heart of a Fxtus^ he fhewed it 
 quite open, and he would have it that 
 there was no Valve to the Foramen Ovale • 
 which feeni'd equally open from the Left 
 Ventricle to the Right, as the contrary ^ 
 that it*s Diameter well near equalled that 
 of the Aorta: That the two Arteries, 
 which afcend up into the two Lobes of 
 the Lungs, (and are the Ramifications of 
 the Pulnionick Artery, after it has parted 
 with the Canal of Communicdhon^ wliicli 
 goes betwixt the Pulmonick Artery and 
 the lower or defcending Brasich of the 
 Aorta) both put together, far exceed, if 
 not double the Diameter of the Aorta it 
 felf- 
 
 He therefore, not without good Reafon 
 affirms. That of all the Blood which the 
 Vena Cava pours into the Right Ventricle 
 of the Heart, and is thence in a Feet us 
 forced up into the Pulmonick Artery, a 
 great part is carried by the Canal of Corn- 
 municatioh into the defcendins^ Trunk of 
 the Aorta^ and is fo circulated about the 
 Body, the Lungs (as to that part) be- 
 ing wholly flighted : Alfo that of the 
 two remaining thirds of theBlcod.which 
 is carried about the Lungs, when it comes 
 down the Pulmonick Vein, that which 
 cannot be received by the Aorta^ (and 
 all cannot^ becaufe the Aorta is m.uch lefs 
 
 F than 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 than the two Branches of the Puhiionick 
 Artery put together) is therefore difcharged 
 back, through tho For a^/en Ovale ^ into the 
 Right Ventricle of the Heart, and fo 
 thrown up again with the reft of the 
 Blood, coming from the Fern Cava. So 
 that one part of the two remaining parts 
 of the Blood is daily carried about the 
 Body, as in an Adult Foetus, and a third 
 part only Circulates in the Lungs, paf- 
 fing by the Body or Grand Circulati- 
 on. 
 
 That all this is done to abbreviate 
 and reduce the Circulation to a lefler 
 compafs, is certain 5 and fo for the fame 
 Reafon and End, that other leflTer Circu- 
 lation of the Liver is flighted by the Blood, 
 which returns from the Placenta, by a 
 Canal of Communication betwixt the Porta 
 and the J'e^/a Cava. 
 
 The Reafon he gives of this, I can- 
 not at all allow of 5 as being very ill 
 grounded and therefore I fhall not trou- 
 ble my felf to Confute, or fo much as 
 Name it. 
 
 As for the Heart of the Land TortoiJe\ 
 it was preferved in Spirit of Wine, and 
 all the three Ventricles thereof flit and 
 opened ^ fo that I had not all the Satis- 
 faction I could have wiflit : but the Left 
 
 Ven-^ 
 
A journey to Pans. 
 
 Ventricle in this Animal had no Artery 
 belonging to it, but did receive only the 
 Blood, which defcended from the Lungs, 
 and convey it by the Foramen Oijde into 
 the Right Ventricle : That the third or 
 middle Ventricle was only an Appendix 
 to the Right, and had the Pulmonick Ar- 
 tery iffiiing from it. So that the Blood 
 in a Tortois was in a manner Circulated 
 like that in a Fcetm ^ through the Body, 
 the Lungs as it were or in good part 
 flighted. 
 
 This Thought of Monfieur MemVs has 
 made a great Breach betwixt Monfieur 
 Verney and himfelf 5 for which Reafon I 
 had not that freedom of Converfation as 
 I could have wifht with both of them ^ 
 but 'tis to be hoped there may come good 
 from an honefl: Emulation. 
 
 Two Englilli Gentlemen came to Vifit 
 me, Mr. Bemis and Mr. Frobie : They 
 were lodged near the Royal Garden, 
 where Monfieur Vermy dwells, and makes 
 his Anatomies , who in Three Months 
 time (hewed all the Parts of the Body to 
 them. He had for this purpofe at leaft 
 Twenty Human Bodies, from the Gal- 
 lows, the Chatelet, (where tho e are ex- 
 posed who are found Murthered in the 
 Streets, v/hich is a very common bufinefs 
 at Fans ) and from the Hofpitals. 
 
 F 2 They 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 They told me, Monfieur Vermy pre^ 
 tended to fnew them a Valve, which did 
 hinder Blood from falling back into the 
 Right Ventricle by the Foramen Ovale. 
 This Valve they faid he compared to the 
 Papillae in the Kidneys, Mufculous and 
 Flefliy : That if W^ind was blown into 
 the Verm Fulmonalis^ it did not pafs 
 through the Foramen Ovale, but flop there, 
 by reafon of the Valve. That he did be- 
 lieve contrary to Mr. Meme.that no Blood 
 d'd circulate through the Lungs in an 
 Embrio. 
 
 Again, in another Cbnverfation with 
 Monfieur Merrie^ he fhewed me the blown 
 Hearts of an Embrio, and that of a Girl 
 of 7 years old. I faw clearly, that the 
 Skin of the fuppofed Valve of the Fora- 
 men Ovale^ was as it were fufpended with 
 two Ligaments : And that in the Girls, 
 the two fides of the Foramen Ovale were 
 drawn one over the other, and fo clofed 
 the hole ^ but were eafily to be fepa* 
 rated again by a Briftle thruft betwixt 
 them. 
 
 Alfo it feemed to me, that this Mem- 
 brane in an Embrio might cover the Fo- 
 ramen Ovale^ like the Membrana Nidians in, 
 a Birds Eye, that is, be drawn over it, 
 and fo hinder the Ingrefs of the Blood 
 from the Vem Cava^^s oft as the Right Au- 
 ricle 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 ricle beats: But the Dilating it feif might 
 give way to the defcending Blood of the 
 Pern Ptilmonalis • and pollibly, the Em- 
 brio living as it were the Life of an In- 
 fed, can by this Artifice Command the 
 Heart. 
 
 I remember in Difcourfe that day with 
 him, he told me, That Monfieur Vermy 
 had an old Cat^ and a young Kitling juft 
 Born, put into the Air-Pump before the 
 Academie Rojialle des Sciences: That the Cat 
 died after 16 Pumps, but the Kitling fur- 
 vived 500 Pumps ^ which favours in 
 fome meafure the Command young Ani- 
 mals have of their Hearts. 
 
 At another Vifit, Monfieur Me>rie ob- 
 ligingly procured for me, the Heart of a 
 Human Embrio, with the Lungs intire. 
 He tried before me the Experiment upon 
 Blowing, and alfo Syringing Water into 
 the Aorta^ both which filled the Auricles 
 and Ventricles, and freely came out at 
 the Vem Cava only. Then he opened the 
 Right Auricle and Ventricle, w^here the 
 Foramen Ovale was open only at one cor- 
 ner, not the tenth part of its breadth 3 
 and a Membrane drav/n over the reft , 
 which Membrane was faftned to the fides 
 quite round. Then he opened in the 
 fame manner the Left Ventricle and Au- 
 ricle, and there it was evident, that that 
 F 3 Mem-' 
 
A Jour?iey to Paris. 
 
 Meaibrane which clofed the hole, had 
 two narrow Straps or Mufcles by which 
 it was faftned to the oppofite fides, after 
 the manner of fome of the Valves of the 
 Heart 
 
 I told him, that it muft follow from 
 this, that the Fora^men Ovale was (hut and 
 opened more or lefs, at the pleafure of 
 the Embrio, according to the Neceffities 
 of Nature, and the quantity of Blood 
 that was to pafs : That it was probable, 
 that all Infefts had a Command of their 
 Hearts, (of which I had given large In- 
 iiances elfewhere) by fome fuch paflage, 
 which they could fhut altogether, or i|i 
 great part, as they had a Mind, inWinter, 
 in Fear, or Parting for want of Food : 
 That the fhutting up of the paflage in 
 Adult Animals was therefore done in 
 an inflant, by drawing the Curtain fully, 
 which could never be again drawn back 
 and opened, becaufe of the great torrent 
 of Blood, which now entred the Right 
 Auricle, ftopt it in that pofture, which 
 in time would altogether jftiffen and lofe 
 its Amotion of Relaxation. As a Hen , 
 Vvhen fhe Sleeps, draws over tht Mem- 
 hand NkJdns 5 and ]ike>vife when fhe 
 Dies, the fame Membrane covers all tlie 
 
 Mr. 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Mr. Benms procured me the Heart of a 
 Humane F(Btus ^ which had but juft 
 breath'd ^ the which I examined vfith 
 Monfieur Litre of Cajires in Languedoc , 
 another very Underftanding and Dextrous 
 Anatomift , and who Teaches Scholars 
 of all Nations the Praftice of Anatomy. 
 The Experiments here were repeated as 
 formerly defcribed ^ Both Wind and 
 Water palled the Foramen Ovale^ both 
 from the Vem Pulmomtm^ and from the 
 Aorta. That which I obferved in this 
 Heart more particularly, was. That the 
 Membrane or Valve on the Left fide of 
 the Foramett Ovale was flat, and extended 
 almoft over the hole, without ^nyLimbus 
 round its edges , becaufe it was nothing 
 but the very fubftance oi the AuricHl a 
 Siniflra continued , or a Procefs thereof : 
 But on the right fide the Vena Cava being 
 pined to the Auricle, it had a rifing 
 edge round that part of it , whence it 
 proceeded 5 that is, that the two Faces 
 had contrery openings, and being drawn 
 as it were one over the other, they fhut 
 the hole 5 but not fo 'firmly, but the 
 hole might be more or lefs open all a 
 Man s Life. For thofe two Oval Proceffes 
 fticking clofe together in a blown and 
 dried Heart, that is not to be much 
 heeded, for I have feen them dry with 
 
 F 4 the 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 the hole open ^ but it has been like as 
 betwixt unglued Paper, or as the llre^ 
 thers defccnd betwixt the Skins of the 
 Bladder, or as the fame happens to the 
 Dudtus BiUrk in its infertion into the 
 Guts. 
 
 The Hime Perfon brought me the Heart 
 of a Man 40 years old, in which the 
 Foramen Ovale was as much open, as in 
 a FiBtiu new born ^ and the Ligaments 
 very confpicuous, which tack the fides of 
 the Valve to the Auricle; and go over to 
 the other fide of the Borden 
 
 ^- I was not better pleafed w^ith any Vifit 
 i made, than with that of F. Fhmkr^ 
 whom I found in his Cell in the Con- 
 vent of the Alwimes. He came home in the 
 Sieur Pontts Squadron, and brought with 
 liini feveral Books in Folio of Defigns and 
 Paintings of Plants, Birds, Fij7jes, and 
 Infects of the Wejl-Indies all done by 
 hinifelf very accurately. He is a very 
 imderftanding Man in feveral parts of 
 Natural Hiftory, but efpecially in Bota- 
 'Hi fie. He had been formerly in America^ 
 at his return Printed, at the Kings Charge, 
 a Bock of American Plants in Folio. This 
 Book was ft) well approved of, that he 
 Was fen t again thither at the Kings 
 Charge, and returned after feveral years 
 
 wan« 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Wandrkig about the Iflands with this 
 Cargo. He was more than once Ship- 
 wrackt^ and loft his Specimens of all 
 things, but preferved his Papers, as ha- 
 ving fortunately lodged theminotherVef- 
 fels \^ fo that the things themfelves I did 
 not fee. He had defigned and Differed 
 a Crocodile 5 one of the Sea Tortoifes 5 
 a Viper, and well defcribed the Difledi- 
 ons. 
 
 His Birds alfo were well underftood, and 
 very well painted in their proper colours. 
 I took notice of 5 forts of Owles, one 
 with Horns, all diftinft Species from our 
 European. Several of the Hawk Kind and 
 Falcons of very beautiful Plumage 5 and 
 one of thofe, which was Coal black as a 
 Raven. Alfb (which I longed to fee) 
 there was one Species of the Swallow Kind, 
 very diftind from the 4 Species we have 
 
 Amongft the Fifh there were two new 
 Species of American Trouts, well known 
 by the Fle(hy Fin near the Tail. 
 
 Amongft the Infeds there was a Scok- 
 pendra of a foot and an half long, and 
 proportionably broad. Alfo the Juluf 
 very elegantly painted, which I had feen 
 before in Dr. Tumforfs Colleftion. Table 5. 
 
 Alfo a very large Wood-Frog, with the 
 extremity of the Toes webbed. 
 
 AliQ 
 
J Journey to Pans. 
 
 Alfo a Blood-red Polypus^ witih v^ry 
 long Legs, two of which I could difcern 
 by the Draught were thick acet^bnlated. 
 This, he told me, was fo venemous, that 
 upon the leaft touch it would caufe an 
 infupportable burning pain, which would 
 laft feveral hours. 
 
 There were alfo fome few Species of 
 the Serpent and Lizard Kind. 
 
 There were but few Shells 5 but amongft 
 them there was a Murex (Seer-4.) which 
 dies purple, with the Fifh as it exerts it 
 felf in the Sea. Alfo that Land Buccimm 
 (fee Tak 9.) which I have figured, and 
 which lays Eggs with hard Shells, and 
 for bignefs , and fliape , and colour, 
 fcarce to be diftinguifht from the 
 Sparrow Eggs. And becaufe the Mti- 
 rex and this Buccinnm was drawn with the 
 Animals creeping out, I defired a Copy 
 of them, which he freely and in a moft 
 obliging manner granted me 5 He defigned 
 the Buccimm Terrejlre in the Ifland of 
 St. Domingo, where he found it. ; 
 
 Amongft the vaft Colledion of Plants, 
 I obferved the Torch Kind, and Femes 
 were of all others the moft numerous 5 
 of each of which there were an incredi- 
 ble number of Species. There were 2 or 
 g Species of^ Goosberries and Currants ^ 
 ^jnd fome Species of Wild Grapes :^ ali 
 
 which 
 
A Journey to Paris. 75 
 
 which V jF- Trimmer told me were good to 
 eat. 
 
 He told me thefe Drawings would 
 make 10 Books, as big as that he had 
 publifht and Two Books of Animals : 
 He had been often at Verfdlles to get them 
 into the Kings Imprlmerie:^ but as yet un- 
 fuccefsfuUy 5 but hoped e re long to be- 
 gin the Printing of them. Note, That 
 the Bookfellers at Park are very unwil- 
 ling, or not able to Print Natural Hi- 
 ftory^ but all is done at the Kings Charge, 
 and in his Prefles. 
 
 I Vifited Monfieur Dacier and his Lddji^ M,Dacier. 
 jtwo very obliging Perfons, and both of 
 great Worth, and very Learned, 
 
 I think our ProfelEon is much beholden 
 to him, for his late elegant Tranflation 
 of Hippocrates into French^ with Learned 
 Notes upon him. I wifh he may live to 
 finifh what he hath fo happily begun. I 
 read over the Two Volumes he has Print- 
 ed with great delight. 
 
 He feems to favour the Opinion of 
 thofe, who think, the Circulation of the 
 Blood was known to him 5 in which he 
 prrs undoubtedly, Tis manifeft his Ana- 
 tomy was rude, dark, and of little ex- 
 tent ^ but 'tis alfo as manifeft, that he 
 knew very well the effeft of the Circu- 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 lation. As for Example, 1. de DUta. c. 12. 
 
 All the Body (fays he) k purged by Refpi- 
 ration and Tranfpiration^ and mhat Humour 
 thickens^ is fubtilized and thrown out by the 
 Sk}nj and is called Sweat. 
 
 Again, 9. de Di£ta. e. 5. fpeaking of 
 a fort of foul and impure Bodies, he mys, 
 ]\^lore is by Labour melted out of the Flejh^ 
 than the Circular Motion (of the Blood) hath 
 purged off. There are a great number of 
 Inftances of this Nature. In Converfa- 
 tion I put this to him, which he avowed 
 was all he thought. 
 
 He told me he had two more Volumes 
 ready for the Prefs, and did intend not 
 to give it over, till he had gone through 
 all the Works of Hippocrates. In which 
 Volumes will be thefe Treatifes : Of 
 JDr earns : Of the Regimen in Acute Difeafes: 
 The Prognojiicks : The Prorrhetiques : The 
 Aphorifmes : The Coaques. 
 
 On that Aphorifm he feemed to me to 
 have a very happy thought, co^a non^ 
 fed cruda purganda. funt 5 which makes it 
 of the fame fence with that other, 6*^' quid 
 movendum eji^ move in principio. 
 
 I muft needs fay this for Madam Da-- 
 cier^ his Wife, though I knew her by 
 her Writings, before I faw her, the 
 Learnedft Woman in Europe, and the 
 true Daughter and Difciple of T/^^^f //// 
 
 F^ber^y 
 
A Journey to Baris. 77 
 
 Faber ^ yet her great Learning did not 
 alter her genteel Air in Converlation, or 
 in the leaft appear in her Difcourfe^ 
 which was eafie, modeft, and nothing 
 affefted. 
 
 I vifited Monfieur Morin^ one of the M. Morin. 
 Academie des Sciences^ a Man very curious 
 in Minerals ^ of which he (hewed me 
 fome from Siam^ as Jafpers, Onyxes, A- 
 gats, Loadftones, &e. He fhewed me 
 alfo excellent Tin Oar from Alface. Alfo 
 from France a great Block of a fort of 
 Amythyft of 2 or 500 weight. Some 
 parts of it (for he had feveral Plates 
 fawed and polifht) were very fine, and 
 had large Spots and Veins of a deep co- 
 loured Violet. It was defigned for a 
 Pavement in Marchetterie^ of which he 
 fhewed me a Carton drawn in the Natural 
 Colours. 
 
 This puts me in mind of a vaft Ame- 
 tlwft I had feen at London^ brought from 
 New-Spain^ and expofedtoSale ^ it weigh- 
 ed, as I remember. Eleven Pound odd 
 Ounces ^ and was moft perfectly figured 
 both point and fides, after the manner of 
 a Brtjtol Diamond, or common Rock Cry- 
 ftal ^ but this Block here was rude, and 
 without any fhape. 
 
 X 
 
A Journey to P^ris. 
 
 I cannot fay much of the meeting of 
 thefe Gentlemen of the Acad. Royal, de Sci^ 
 ernes ^ there are but few of therti, about 1 2 
 or 16 Members^ all Penfioned by the 
 King infome manner or other. 
 
 They endeavoured in the War time to 
 have Printed Monthly Tranf anions ox Me- 
 moires after the manner of ours in Z^;/- 
 don 5 but could not carry them on above 
 two Volumes or Years, for without great 
 Correfpondence this can hardly be done. 
 And ours is certainly one of the beft Regi- 
 fters that ever was thought on, to pre- 
 ferve a vaft number of fcattered Obferva- 
 tions in Natural Hiftory. which other- 
 wife w^ould run the hazard to be loft, be- 
 fides the Account of Learning in Printed 
 Books. 
 
 I heard Mr. Oldenhurgh fay, who began 
 this Noble Regifter, that he held Corre- 
 fpondence with 70 odd Perfons in all 
 parts of the World, and thofe be fure 
 with others : I askt him, what method 
 he ufed to anfwer fo great variety of 
 Subjefts, and fuch a quantity of Letters 
 as he muft receive weekly ^ for i knew 
 he never failed, becaufe I had the Ho- 
 nour of his Correfpondence for 10 or 12 
 years. He told me he made one Letter 
 anfwer another, and that to be always 
 frefti, he never read a Letter before he 
 
 V. had 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 haid Pen, Ink and Paper ready to anfwer 
 it forthwith, fo that the multitude of his" 
 Letters cloy'd him not, or ever lay upon 
 his hands. 
 
 The Ahbot Bignori is Prefident, Ne- 
 phew to Monftmr Pontchdrtrain. I was 
 informed by fome of them, that they 
 have this great advantage to incourage 
 them in the purfuit of Natural Philofo- 
 phy, that if any of the Members ihall 
 give in a Bill of Charges of any Expe- 
 riments v/hich he (hall have made 5 or 
 fhall defire the hnpreffion of any Book, 
 and bring in the Charges of Graving re- 
 quired for fuch Book, the Prefident al- 
 lov/ing it and figning it, the Money is 
 forthwith reimburfed by the King. As it 
 was done in Dr, TjirnfoH^s Elements de Bo^ 
 iamque, the Cuts of that Book coft the 
 King 12000 Livres. And the Cuts in-^ 
 tended, and now Graving for another 
 Book of new Plants found in his Voyages 
 into PortHgd and Spmt^ will coft 100/. 
 Sterling. 
 
 Alfo, if Monfieur Menie, for Example,' 
 Hid 11 require live Tortoifes for the making 
 good the Experiments about the Heart, 
 tlicy fliall be brought him, as many as 
 he pleafes, at the King s Charge. 
 
 Thefe, befides their Peniions, I fay, 
 were fome of the Advantages they have 
 
 injoyed3 
 
So A Journey to Parisi 
 
 injoyed ^ but the War, for this Reafori^ 
 has lain heavy upon the Philofophers 
 too. 
 
 Mr. But. Mr. Bntterfietd is a right hearty honeft 
 $.rjidd. ^ftgltfoman^ who has redded in France 
 55 years, is a very excellent Artift in 
 making all forts of Mathematical Inftru- 
 ments, and works for the King and all 
 the Princes of the Blood, and his Work 
 is fought after by all the Nations of 
 Europe and Jjia. 
 
 He more than once fhewed nie (which 
 is his great Diverfion) a mighty CoUeftion 
 of Loadftones, to the value of feveral 
 Hundred Pounds Sterling. 
 
 Some he had as hard almoft as Steel, 
 and others foft and friable ^ yet of thefe 
 he had thofe which were of as greatvirtue, 
 as any of the hard 5 That of the equally 
 hard there were very great difference. 
 
 He had one which weighed naked not 
 above a Drachm, and would naked take 
 tip a Drachm and an half 5 but (hod vc^ould 
 take up 144 Drachms of Iron, if rightly 
 applied, that is, if the Iron to be taken 
 up did firmly and in a plain touch alike 
 both the Feet. 
 
 The 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 The beft Shod were thefe that follow. 
 
 1. A Slate Loadjicne^ which I rtoted 
 not fo much for its ftrength, but be- 
 caufe of its peculiar make, being fairly 
 and diftinftly luminous throughout, 
 weighing One ounce and an half, draws 
 up One pound. 
 
 2. A Smooth Loadftone, weighing One, 
 drachm, two fcruples, fourteen grains, 
 draws up Eighteen ounces, that is Eighty 
 two times its weight. . _ 
 
 3. Another Smooth Loadftone, weigh- 
 ing Sixty five grains, draw^s up Fourteen 
 ounces, that is. One hundred and forty 
 four times its weight. 
 
 There is, a Loadftone no bigger then a 
 Hazel Nut, which took up a huge Bunch 
 of Keys. 
 
 We have a very lar^e Slate Loadftone 
 in the K'^^o^itoxy 3t GreJham-CoUedgey at 
 leaft 6 inches over ^ This alfo is but 
 weak 5 Whether the Lamina do fpoil the 
 vertue, as though they were but fo many 
 diftinft Stones packt together* And yet 
 a Loadftone which takes ex.gr. 6 pound 
 weight, cut by the Axis in two halves, 
 and both halves ftiod again ^ will take up 
 8 pound. 
 
 It is plain,, that Experiments are bet- 
 ter made with aTerre//^,or fpherical Load- 
 ftone, than a fquare one 5 and his way 
 
 G of 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 of capping the Terrel/a is very well cori- 
 trived. 
 
 A fquare Loadftone made into a Ter- 
 rel/a^ will near take up as much weight as 
 it did before, though a great deal of the 
 Stone is loft in the rounding, by virtue 
 of the different fhooing. 
 
 He entertained us full two hours with 
 Experiments neatly contrived about the 
 effefts of the Loadftone, 
 
 The Experiment of approaching a Load- 
 ftone to the Spring of a Watch is very 
 fine ; it caufes the Ballance to move very 
 fwift, and brought yet nearer, to ftop 
 quite and ceafe moving. 
 
 Another Experiment was an inch broad 
 Plate of Iron, turned into a Ring of 
 about 4 inches diameter, which had evi- 
 dently two North and two South Poles, 
 which he faid he had feen in a Loadftone, 
 and had contrived this in imitation of 
 Nature. The working of them with fi- 
 Tmgs of Steel, drigged upon a Plate, fet 
 upon the Ring, did clearly manifeft the 
 double Polarity. 
 
 Alfo the fiifpending of a Needle in the 
 Air, and a Ball of Steel upon the point 
 of it, by a Thred, which a weight kept 
 down, that it could not afcend higher, 
 than fuch a diftance within the fphere of 
 the aftivity of the Loadftone* 
 
 Again, 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Again, the free vvotking of the Needle 
 in Water, through Brafs, Gold, Stone, 
 Wood, or any thing but Iron. He told 
 us, he had a Stone, which would work 
 through a Stone Wall of i8 inches. 
 
 Laftly, he demonftrated by many Ex- 
 periments, how the E^iHvia of the Load- 
 ftone work in a Circle, that is, what 
 flows from the North Pole, comes round, 
 and enters the South Pole ^ on the con- 
 trary, what flow^s from the South Pole, 
 enters the North, and in its way puts in 
 order all fuch Filings of Steel it meets 
 with ^ that is, according to the difpodti- 
 on of its own whirling, and the circular 
 lines it keeps iti its flying about the Load- 
 ftone. Indeed, it is pleafant to fee, how 
 the Steel Fihngs are difpofed ^ and in 
 their arangcment one clearly fees a per- 
 fect image of the road, which the whirl- 
 ing inviiible Matter takes in coming forth, 
 and re-entring the Poles of the Load- 
 ftone. 
 
 He fhewed us a Loadftone fawed off 
 that piece of the Iron Bar, which held the 
 Stones together at the very top of the 
 Steeple of Chartres 5 This was a thick 
 Cruft of Ruft, part of which was turned 
 into a ft-rong Loadftone, afid had all the 
 properties of a Stone dug out of the 
 Mine, ^lonjl ck la Hire has Printed a 
 
 G 2 Me- 
 
A Journey /Q.Paris. 
 
 Memoire of it ^ alfo Monf. de Valleniont 
 a Treatife. The very outward Ruft had 
 no Magnetic Virtue, out the inward had 
 a ftrong one, as to take up a third part 
 more than its weight unfhod. This Iron 
 had the very grain of a folid Magnet, 
 and the brittlenefs of a Stone. 
 
 Thefe Gentlemen, who have ,writ of 
 this, have, in my Opinion, mifs'd their 
 purpofe, when they enquire, how it 
 comes to pafs to be thus turned 5 for it 
 is certain, all Iron v/ill in time go back 
 into its Mineral Nature again, notwith- 
 ftanding the Artifice of Melting and 
 Hammering, I have feen of thofe Ham- 
 mered Spamjh Cannon, which had lain 
 many years buried in the Ground, under 
 the old Fort at Hif// in Torkepire^ which 
 were thoroughly turned into brittle Iron 
 Stone, or Mine again 5 and wOuld not 
 own the Loadftone, no more than the 
 reft of our Engllfl) Iron Mino, .fill it was 
 calcined, and then fhewed it felf to be 
 good Iron again. Alibi have feen, and 
 had by me, a piece of Wood taken out 
 of LoHgh-Neagfj in /re/^W, which was not 
 only good Iron Mine, but a Loadftone 
 too 5 fo that it is evident ■ Nature, in this 
 fort of Mine, goes backwards and for- 
 wards, is generated and regenerated^ 
 and therefore Monf. de la Hire has well 
 
 ufed 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 ufed the Term of Vegetation in this 
 Affair, which I had done manv years be- 
 fore in my Book DeFontii ps medkc^ik 
 AnglU^ that is, out of Ircn, Mine will 
 grow • and out of Mine, a Loadfbne ^ 
 as in the petrified Wood 
 
 I do not relate thefe things, as though 
 they were new Difcoveries ^ the World 
 has long fince known them, by the great 
 Induftry of our moft Learned Country- 
 man Gilbert of Colchefler^ to whom little 
 has been added after near loo years, 
 thongh ver^r many Men have written of 
 th' ^ Subjedt. and formed divers Hypo- 
 t *-o folve thefe Phocnomena. A 
 L lmdn^ Mr. Hartfoeker^ one of the u^- 
 e fy des Sciences^ has publifhed a Trea- 
 t e of the Principles of Natural Philo- 
 i phy, and has accounted for thefe and 
 many more Experiments of this Nature, 
 which he had fhewn him by Mr. Butter-- 
 Jield^ whom he mentions very Honour- 
 ably. 
 
 And 3^et after all, the nature of thefe 
 Effluvia are little known, and ^ what is 
 faid by ^ Des Cartes of Screw fafhioned 
 Particles, and the invifible Channels and 
 Pores and Pipes of the Loadftone, are 
 all meer Fancies without any Founda- 
 tion in Nature. It is well called by 
 fome a certain Magnetick Matter, but 
 ■ G 5 what 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 what properties it hath, is little undeiv 
 ftood. 
 
 It is very ftrange to me, that a little 
 Loadftone , of that prodigious force, 
 (hould have fo (hort a Iphere of aftivity, 
 and not fenfibly to affeft Iron above an 
 inch or two ^ and the biggeft and ftrong- 
 eft not above . a foot or two. We fee 
 the Vortices in Water, how wide they 
 work round about them, vaftly increaf- 
 ing the Circles 5 and what little refi- 
 ftance the Air can make to a body of 
 that fubtilty, as the Effluvra of the Load^- 
 flcne, which can with eafe penetrate all 
 Bodies whatfoever. Marble, Flints, Glafs, 
 Copper, Gold, without any fenfible di- 
 
 thc flame of a Lamp in Oil, or Tallow, 
 or Wax, how fliort it is 5 and how long 
 and tapering it is in Spirit of Wine. 
 If therefore the Magnetick Matter was 
 darted out of infinite fmall Pipes, and 
 was of the nature of a more fubtile and 
 invifible Flame, why does it not conti- 
 nue its courfe in a direft line to a great 
 length, but return fo fuddenly? We fee 
 the perfpi ration of our Skins to rife into 
 the Air, and continue to mount, which 
 yet has but a weak impulfe from the 
 Heart, being interrupted and broke off, 
 when it ccmes out of the Road of the 
 
 minution of its virtue. 
 
 ]pioo(J 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Blood into the DuUus Excrefoni. But 
 the .Circle of the Magnetick Matter is 
 without any impulfe, that we know of^ 
 from the Stone 5 and moves in a double 
 circle, and with a double and contrary 
 ftream in the fame Pipes, . contrary to 
 the Laws of the Circulation of the Blood 
 in Animals ; which has naturally but 
 one Currant, and one Road round 5 for 
 the whole Mafs of Veilels, in which the 
 Circulation of the Blood is concerned, is 
 but one continued Pipe. 
 
 Until the Nature of the Effluvia is bet- 
 ter known, no very fatisfadory Account 
 can be given of the moft common Phoe- 
 nomena of the Loadftone, ex. gr. why 
 it does not draw to it all Bodies alike ? 
 why a great Loadftone, though weak, 
 extends its vertue much farther, than a 
 fmallone, though ftrong> Why a Load- 
 ftone communicates its vertue to Iron, as 
 fooH as it touches it, nay even at fome 
 diftance, and gives it the properties of a 
 Loadftone. 
 
 The Truth is, the Earth's being a great 
 Magnet feems to me a meer Vifion and 
 Fable 5 for this reafon, becaufe it is not 
 Iron. Tis true. Iron Mine is the moft 
 common of all Minerals, and found al- 
 moft in all places y but it holds not any 
 proportion with the reft of the Foffils of 
 
 G 4 the 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 the Eartli^ and is not, at a guefs, as a 
 niillion to other Foflils ^ This feems evi- 
 dent to any one, who has well confider- 
 6d the Chalky Mountains and Cliffs, the 
 high Rag-ftone Mountains and Lime Stone 
 Cliffs, the feveral Quarries and Pits funk in- 
 
 the Bowels of the Earth for Coal, and 
 tead, &c. how little Iron there is to be 
 found in comparifon of other Matters. 
 Add to this, that very little of that very- 
 Iron Mine, which is to be found any 
 where, is Magnetick, or capable of obe- 
 dience to the Magnet, till it is calcined : 
 Whence therefore fhouldall thofeMagne- 
 tick E^Hvid arife, which are fuppofed 
 ^very where plentifully to incompafs the 
 £arth> And why fhould they be fup- 
 f)ofed to be every where wandring in 
 the Air, fince *tis evident, they make 
 hafte to return to the Stone that emitted 
 them, and are as afraid to leave it, as the 
 Child the Mother before it can go > 
 
 Towards the difcovery of the Nature 
 of the Effluvta of the Loadftone, fuch 
 Particulars as thofe, in my Opinion, 
 ought chiefly to be confidered, and pro- 
 fecuted with all induftry^ The Load- 
 ftone is very good, if not the beft Iron 
 Mine. The fole Fufibn of the Loadftone 
 turns it into Iron 5 The Fire deftroys \t$ 
 very virtue, and fo 'does Vitrificatioti 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Iron. Fire will make Iron Mine own the 
 Loadftone, and turn to a Magnet 5 Ruft, 
 (into which all Iron will naturally 
 turn) and the reduction of Iron again 
 to its Mine, will take away all theMag- 
 netick capacity of Iron. A Loadftone 
 cannot be made to alter its Poles, but 
 Iron may 3 nor be deftroyed, but by the 
 Fire. A great and long Bar of Iron 15 
 naturally a Loadftone, if held up perpen- 
 dicularly, and it changes its Poles at the 
 pleafure of him that holds it : A ftrong 
 Loadftone lofes much of its virtue by 
 touching Iron, but after a few days re- 
 covers it again : A fmall and weak Load- 
 ftone cannot touch to give its virtue to a 
 great lump of Iron : A Loadftone ex- 
 pofed to the Air is fpoilt in time : The 
 deeper the Vein of Iron Mine is, where 
 Loadftone is found, the better the Stone, 
 and how far, this holds true ^ for I do not 
 doubt, but a very hard Stone may be 
 found near the day, as well as deeper : 
 A Ruler or long Plate of Steel is much 
 better touched with the virtue of the 
 Loadftone, than a Plate of meer Iron of 
 the fame figure ^ but on the contrary a 
 Plate of Iron fticks much fafter to the 
 Loadftone, than a Plate of Steel 5 fo as 
 if a Loadftone draws up a Plate of Steel 
 pf 5 Ounces, it wiU draw up a Plate of 
 
J Journey to Paris. 
 
 Iron of four Ounces and more. Why 
 Iron faftned to the Poles of a Magnet 
 does fo vaftly improve its ftrength, as 
 to be 150 times ftronger than when 
 Naked. 
 
 Since therefore a Loadftone is nothing 
 elfebut good Iron Mine,and may be turned 
 into Iron 5 and Iron moft eafily, and of 
 its felf into Load-Stone, the way to find 
 out the Nature of thoit MagmtickJBMuvia, 
 feems to be to enquire ftridly into the Na- 
 ture of Iron Mine,and Iron it felf 5 and not 
 to run giddily into Hypothefes, before 
 we are well ftocked with the Natural 
 Hiftory of the Load-Stone, and a larger 
 quantity of Experiments and Obfervati- 
 ons relating to Iron and its Mine, with 
 all the Difference and Species of them 5 
 which I think has hitherto been little 
 heeded. For Nature will be its own In- 
 terpreter, in this, as well as in all other 
 Matters of Natural Philofophy. 
 
 Mr. Bntterfield, in another Converfa- 
 tion, told me. He had obferved Load- 
 Stones, which were ftrong without arm- 
 ing 3 and being armed, had not that 
 great advantage by it, as one could have 
 expefted : And that on the contrary, 
 there were others, which had a more 
 incredible Virtue when armed, than they 
 did promife. That 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 That it feldom happens; that a Load- 
 Stone hath as much Virtue in one of its 
 Poles, as in the other and that a bit 
 of Iron is toucht equally well at either 
 of the Poles of one and the fame Load- 
 Stone. 
 
 That there are Load-Stones which take 
 up much, and which notwithftanding 
 are incapable of well touching Iron ^ fo 
 that a Stone armed, which takes up feven 
 Pound, yet cannot Communicate to a 
 Ruler of Iron, the Virtue of taking up a 
 very fmall Needle. 
 
 That a Load-Stone of lo Ounces, be- 
 ing reduced to the weight of 6 Ounces or 
 thereabouts, did almoft the fame effedfc 
 as before, &c. 
 
 I caufed Mr. Butterfield to make the 
 Slate Load-Stom into a Terella^ and when 
 (hod, it was indeed but of little force 5 
 but I obferved its Poles to lie level with 
 the Lamin£^ of which it was compofed. 
 
 N. B. A ftrong Load-Stone ought to 
 have large Irons,and a weak one but thin 
 Irons 5 fo that a Stone may be over-ftiod. 
 
 I waited upon the Abbot JDm//e to VifitM ^?"'" 
 Monfiem Guanieres^ at his Lodgings in*"'''^' 
 the Hojiel de Gmje, This Gentleman is 
 Courtefie it felf, and one of the moft 
 Curious and Induftrious Perfons in Park. 
 Ifis Memoires, Manufcripts, Paintings, 
 
 and 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 and Stamps are infinite, but the method 
 in which he difpofes them, is very par- 
 ticular and ufefuL He fhewed his Porte^ 
 feiulles in Folio, of Red Spanifti l^eather 
 finely adorned : In one, for Example, 
 He had the General Maps of England 5 
 then the particular Maps of the Counties 5 
 then the Maps of London^ and Views a- 
 bout it : Then the Stamps of all the par- 
 ticular Places and Buildings of Note a- 
 bout it ^ and foof all the Cities in E//^/^;?^, 
 and Places and Houfes of Note of the 
 Counties. 
 
 In other Book-Cafes, he has the Stamps 
 of the States-Men of England^ Nobility 
 of both Sexes, Souldiers, Lawyers, Di- 
 v^ines, Phyficians, and Men of Diftin- 
 6tion. And in this Method he hath all 
 Europe by themfelves. 
 
 His Rooms are filled with the Heads 
 of a vaft number of Men of Note in Oil 
 Paintings, and Miniatures or Water-Co- 
 lours : Amongft the reft, an Original of 
 King John^ who was Prifoner in England^ 
 which he greatly values. 
 
 He {hewed us the Habits in Limning 
 from the Originals, done by the beft 
 Mafters, of alf the Kings and Queens and 
 Princes of France^ for many Ages back- 
 wards. Alfo the Turnaments and Juft- 
 ings at large ^ and a thouCand foch things 
 of Monuments. H^ 
 
. A Journey to Paris- ^3 
 
 He was fo Curious, that he told me^ 
 he feldom went into the Country with- 
 out an Amanmnfis , and a couple of 
 Men well Skilled in Defigning and Paints 
 ing. 
 
 He fliewed us amongft other curious 
 Manufcripts, a Capitularie of G^^r/^j' V* 
 alfo the Gofpel of St. Matthew writ in 
 Golden Letter upon Purple Vellum. 
 This feemed to me to be later than that 
 Manufcript I faw at the Abby of St.Ger- 
 maim ^ that is, the Letters lefs and more 
 crooked, tho' indeed, the Letters of the 
 Title Page are exadly Square. 
 
 One Toy I took notice of, which was 
 a Colleftion of Playing Cards for 300 
 years : The ol deft were three times bigger 
 than what are now ufed, extreamly weli 
 lined and illuminated with guilt Bear- 
 ders, and the Paftboard thick and firm ^ 
 but there was not a compleat Sett of 
 them; 
 
 Amongft the Perfons of Diftindion 
 and Fame, I was defirous to fee Madamevi- ^ 
 fdle de Scuderte^ now 91 years of Age. 
 Her Mind is yet vigorous, tho' her Body 
 is in Ruins. T confefs, this Vifit was m 
 petfed Mortification, to fee the fad De- 
 cays of Nature in a Woman once fo 
 famous. To hear her Talk^ with her 
 
 ;f Ops 
 
^4 ^ Journey to Paris. 
 
 Lips hanging about a Toothlefs Mouth, 
 and not to be able to Command her 
 ;Wordsfrom flying abroad at Random, 
 puts me in mind of the SyhiV% uttering 
 Oracles. Old Women were employed 
 on this Errand, and the Infant-World 
 thought nothing fo Wife, as Decayed 
 Nature, or Nature quite out of Order ^ 
 and preferred Dreams before reafonable 
 and waking Thoughts. 
 
 She ftiewed me the Skeletons of two 
 Chameleons^ which (he had kept near four 
 years alive : In Winter fbe lodged them 
 in Cotton 5 and in the fierceft Weather, 
 (he put them under a Ball of Copper , 
 full of hot Water. 
 
 In her Clofet fhe (hewed me an Ori- 
 ginal of Madame Maintenon^ her old Friend 
 and Acquaintance, which fhe affirmed 
 was very like her : and, indeed, (he was 
 then very beautiful. 
 
 JljTj' Marquis d'Hopifal, one of the Aca- 
 
 ^' demie des Sciences^ whom I found not at! 
 home, returned my Vifit very obliging- 
 ly. 1 had a longConverfation with him 
 about Philofophy and Learning 5 and I 
 perceived the Wars had made them al- 
 together Strangers to what had been do- 
 ing in England. Nothing was more plea- 
 ding to him, than to hear of Mr. Ifaac 
 
 Newton $ 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Newton s Preferment, and that there were 
 hopes, that they might exped fomething 
 more from him, heexprelled a great defire 
 to have the whole Sett of the Philofiphic 
 TranfaUicMs brought over , and many 
 other Books, which he named, but had 
 not yet feen. He told me, it was not 
 poffiole for them to continue the Month- 
 ly Memoirs, as they had done for two 
 years only, becaufe they were but very 
 few in number of that Society, and had 
 very little Correfpondence. Indeed, I 
 did inquire once of fome of that Body, 
 why they did not take in more fince 
 there were very many deferving Men in 
 the City,as I inftanc'd in F. Flumier : They 
 owned he would be an Honour to the 
 Body, but they avoided to make a Pre- 
 fident for the Admiffion of any Regulars 
 whatfoever. 
 
 I repaid the Marquis his Vifit : He lives 
 in a fine Houfe, well furniflit 5 the Gar- 
 den pretty, with neat Trelliage, wrought 
 with Arches and other Ornaments: 
 
 He exprefled a great Defire to fee 
 Efigland, and Converfe with our Mathe- 
 maticians, whofe Works he coveted a- 
 bove all things, and had ordered all to 
 be brought him over. 
 
 His 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 His Lady alfo is very wdl Studied in 
 the Mathematicks, and mafes one of the 
 Learned Ladies in Varis 5 6i which num- 
 ber are Mad. Dacter ^ the Dutchefs of 
 Main^ Mad. Scuderk^ Mad. de Vicubourg^ 
 Mad. d'Efpernon the Daughter, Mad. Fref. 
 de Ferrand^ and others, whofe Ngtmes I 
 have forgot. ^ . . 
 
 I bought the Works of Fere Vezrm^ a 
 Bemrdin^ now Abbot de Charmdyfe near 
 Rheims. This is a very Learned and 
 very difipterefted i\uthor, and by hi^ 
 free way of Writing has got him Enemies 
 amongft the Regular Clergy. The Books 
 I bought were his Antiquities or Account of 
 Time 5 The Defence of it againji Two Monks :^ 
 An Ejfaji or Commentary upon the Prophets 5 
 The Hijiorjf of the Gofpel. 
 
 He is now upon, giving us the Origin of 
 Nations^ where he will (hew, that Gree^ 
 and Latin too, came from the Celt ique or 
 Bas-breton 5 of which Country he is. He 
 told me he had 800 Gree4 Words perfed 
 Celtique. I fettled a Correfpondence be- 
 twixt him and Mr. Ed. Floid:^ which he 
 moift readily granted, and which he faid 
 he had long coveted* 
 
 Mon- 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 97 
 
 Moiifieur Spanhelm, now Envoy Ex- 
 traordinary from the Duke of Branden- 
 hourgh at P^m; told me, that the King of 
 Frances Collection of Medals is far the 
 beft in Europe, or that ever was m^de* 
 Having the opportunity of Difcourfing 
 him often, his fick Lady being my Pa- 
 tient , I inquired more particularly of 
 him, what he had feen of Pahz/jra, of 
 Zembia^ Odemtus, Vahalathus. He defired 
 a Memoir of me, which I gave him, of 
 what I would have him fearch for in the 
 Kings Cabinet, and promifed me all the 
 Satisfaction he could give me in that x^f- 
 fair. 
 
 I told him I had met with nothing yet, 
 but a fair Bufto in White Marble of Zc- 
 nobia, in the Cabinet of M. Boudelot ^ 
 which was part of Monf. Thevenot's Col- 
 lection of Marbles from the Eafl. 
 
 I was to wait oft Monf. ValUant at his Monfieur 
 Appartment in the ArfenaL I found 
 only his Son at home, who very Civilly 
 Entertained me ^ and fhewed me a Book 
 in Quarto of his Father s of Gree^ Medals, 
 near Printed ofF^ but without Cutts. 
 The Title was Nummi Gr£ci Imperatomm ^ 
 he goes down no lower than to Clatidtas 
 Gothicifs. He hath added a large Afpen- 
 
 H " dix. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 dix^ with References to all the moft Re- 
 markable Heads about the Cities and the 
 People. 
 
 I left a Memok with h:s Son 5 and in 
 a fecond Vifit, I found the old Gentle- 
 man at home, very bufie in his Flower 
 Garden 5 of which I fball fpeak here- 
 after. 
 
 He told me, as to the Memoir I had 
 left, he had never feen any Coins of Oe- 
 denat/fs 5 yet he had very lately parted . 
 with one of Zenobla to the Duke of 
 Alawe. As for VabaUthm^ he had feen 
 fome of him in Brafs • and one he had in 
 Silver, which he very obligingly made 
 me a Prefent of 5 and that this was the 
 only Silver Coin he had ever met with of 
 him. 
 
 This is his Reading of it. 
 V A B A L ATHUS. V.G.R.IMP.R. 
 
 Vices gerens Imperii Romania 
 
 Les autres y lifent md. Y C R I M G R. 
 
 He gave me alfo the Stamps of the 
 Heads of Zenobia and Vabdathus^ done'' 
 from the King's Medals. See Tab. 2. Thefe 
 were defigned for a fliort Hiftory of alt 
 * the 
 
A Journey to Paris* 
 
 the Emperors and EmprelTes, which he has 
 by him written in French^ but not pub- 
 liflit. Nothing could be more Civil and 
 Franc than this Gentleman, whom I be- 
 lieve to be the beft Medalift in Europe :^ 
 he told me he had made 1 2 Voyages all 
 over Europe and Afia Minor on purpofe ^ 
 That he had feen and defcribed the Con- 
 tents of more Cabinets, than any Man 
 ever did before him 5 and it is evident 
 by his Works, that he has made good 
 ufe of them. 
 
 I had a Vifit from Mr- Conninghmn^ 
 Tutor to my Lord Lorm^ a very Learn- 
 ed and Curious Man in Books. I askt 
 him (knowing him to have been lately 
 'kt-Rome) very particularly about the Pa- 
 pers of Monfieur d'Jzout. He told me, 
 that he fee him not above half a year 
 before he died, and was very intimately 
 acquainted with him, and faw him for a 
 Twelvemonth very often. That he told 
 him, that he had about 80 difficult Paf- 
 fages in Vitruvlus^ which he had Com- 
 mented and Explained 5 and the Corre- 
 ftion of a great number of Errata in the 
 Text. Alfo that upon Julius Fronthrus 
 (though that was a much lefs Book) he 
 ^kad much more to fay, than he had upon 
 yltruvufs: What is become of his Papers 
 I could not learn from him.nor any mFaris. 
 
 H 2 " Men- 
 
I oo A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Monfieur d'Azout was very Curious 
 and Underftanding in Architefture, for 
 which purpofe he was 1 7 years in Italy by 
 times 5 I do remember when he was in 
 England about 14 years ago, he fhewed 
 me the Defign of feveral of our Build- 
 ings drawn by himfelf but of that of the 
 Banquetting-Hotife at Whitehall^ he expref- 
 fed himfelf in very extraordinary Terms, 
 telling me, it was the moft Regular, and 
 moft Finifht Piece of Modern Workman- 
 fhip he had feen on this fide the Alpe^^ 
 that he could not enough praife it : That 
 Inigo Jones^ the Archited, had a true re- 
 lifh of what was Noble in that Art. 
 
 It is time now to leave the Private 
 Houfes, and to Vifit the Publick^Libraries :^ 
 and with them fuch Perfons as are more 
 particularly concerned in the Hiftory of 
 Learning. 
 
 u.VAhhc Monfieur tAbbe Dfouine came to vifit 
 Drouine, Lodgings- I retumed the Vifit. 
 
 the next day at his Appartment in the: 
 College de Boncourt. He had 4 or 5 little 
 Rooms well furniflit with Books 5 in the 
 biggeft he had a Colledion of Catalogues 
 of Books, and of all fuch who had writ 
 the Accounts of Authors 5 above 5000 
 in all Languages. He told me he had^ 
 ftudied the Hiftory of Books with the 
 
 utmoft 
 
A Journey to Paris. i o i 
 
 utmoft application i8 years, and had 
 brought his Memoirs into a good Method 5 
 That he had thoughts of Printing the 
 firft Tome this year, which would be of 
 the moft ancient Authors, Greeh^ and Lci-^ 
 tin 5 That he intended to continue them 
 throughout all the fucceeding Ages down 
 to our times 5 which he faid he had per- 
 formed in good part. 
 
 He fhewed me the Catalogue of Au- 
 thors in 4 very thick Folios ^ alphabeti- 
 cally difpofed by Family Names^ under 
 fome fuch Title as this : Index alphabeticus 
 omnium Scriptortim^ cujufcHnque faadtatis 
 temporis^ lingH£ : Thofe came to about 
 150000. 
 
 He alfo fhewed me his Alphabetick 
 Memoirs in Sheets of the Authors and 
 Books they had writ, and in great for- 
 wardnefs. And laftly, the Chronologi- 
 cal Catalogue, in which form he intends 
 to Print the whole. 
 
 He is a very Civil and well Tempered 
 Perfon, very Learned and Curious, and 
 of a middle Age, fit to continue and fi- 
 nifh fuch a Laborious Work. I was in- 
 finitely obliged to him for his frequent 
 • Vifits, 
 
 I 
 
102 
 
 4 Journey to Paris- 
 
 Thcvenot's I was to Wait OH Monficur Gurmer^ one 
 Library, ^^j^^ Monficur Thevemt, to fee 
 
 the Remains of that Famous Man's Li- 
 brary. There are a great number of 0- 
 rkntd MSS. yet unfold. 
 
 He fhewed me the MS. of Abulfeda, 
 with its Latin Verfion, done by Monfieur 
 Thevenot • and the Matrices and Forms of 
 Arabic\ Letters^ which he had, at his own 
 Charge, caufed to be cut .for the Printing 
 of certjiin proper Names in it. 
 
 He went or defigned to go into Eng- 
 land and Holland to get it Printed, but 
 ^ was called back by Monfieur Louvoiss 
 Order, to Print it in France at the King's 
 Charge 5 but the late Wars coming on, 
 it was fet afide, and is like to be fo, for 
 he v/as turned out of his place of .Library 
 Keeper to the King, and died in Dif- 
 grace. 
 
 Thofe great number of Oriental Books 
 he had moft from his Nephew, whom he 
 fent abroad for that purpofe, and who 
 died in his Travels. 
 
 This Man was, as it were, the Foun- 
 der of the Academic des Sciences^ and was 
 ill his cwn Nature very Liberal, and gave 
 Penfions to many Scholars. ' * 
 
 Amongft ether things, I faw there a 
 large Diftionaiy and Grammar of the 
 
 ^ ' Al^on- 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Algonmin Tongue^ one of the Nations of 
 the WeJi-LTdies. The Fugitive Jefuit, who 
 writ it, dwelt amongft them 20 years. 
 Here I alfo faw a Hiftory, with large and 
 accurate Defcriptions of the ^udmpeds 
 of that part of the Wejl-Indies by the 
 fame Author. 
 
 As for the Papers of Swammerdam^ which 
 indeed were the things I moft coveted to fee, 
 they were much beneath my Expedati- 
 on, not anfwering the Printed Catalogue 
 of Thevenot^ p. 259. There were, in- 
 deed, fome Corredions of the Figures of 
 his general Hiftory of Infefts, and fome 
 Additions, as though he intended ano- 
 ther Edition of that Book. 
 
 Alfo towards a particular Hiftory, 
 there were fome fmall Treatifes, or ra- 
 ther fome Figures only of the Tadpole. 
 Again, Figures relating to the Natural 
 Hiftory of a certain Day Butterfly Of 
 the Af us ^ Of the Smttle Fifi ^ Of the 
 Scarabsus Naficornk 5 and fome confider- 
 able number of Snails^ as well naked, as 
 fluviatil, and Sea dilTefted 5 at leaft fi- 
 gured with their Bodies exerted, and 
 fome of their Bowels extradted ; and 
 which feemed to me to be well under- 
 ftood and delineated. There were 2 or 
 3 Stitcht Books in Dutch of 4 or 5 Sheers 
 a-piece belonging to thofe Plates or Fi- 
 
 H 4 gures. 
 
1 04 A Journey to Paris* 
 
 gures. But the Gentleman would not 
 part with any of them 5 becaufe, he faid, 
 they had been fecured by the Abbot Big- 
 non. for the Kings ufe. However, all 
 thefe I judge well worth Princing, when 
 it (hall pleafe that Society to do it. 
 
 Laftly, I faw in his Cuftody a fair 
 MS. of Michael Servetus^ with a Treatife 
 at the end of it, which, as he faid, was 
 never publiiht 5 being a Comparifon of 
 the Jewifti and Chriftian Law, its Juftice 
 and Charity. 
 
 Kmg's Li. Monf. VAhbe de BriUac, Almoner to the 
 Prince of Conti^ very obligingly offered 
 to carry me to the IGngs Library 3 but I 
 Civilly declined it, for I had been told, 
 it was better to make Vifits by ones felf ; 
 for no Stranger but was very w^elcome, at 
 all times 5 not only on the days it was; 
 publickly open, as it is upon Tmfdays and 
 Fridays. 
 
 Monf. Clement^ the Deputy Library 
 Keeper, made us welcome, and invited 
 us to come again, and fpend a whole day 
 with him : He made me in particular a 
 very great Compliment, as a confiderable 
 Benefaftor to that place, (hewing me moft 
 of the Boc:^kS: and the Names of the reft, 
 I had publ'<fht in and fhewed a 
 
 great fatisfadion, that he had got the 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 Sympps Conchyliorum^ which he had caufed 
 to be Bound very elegantly. I told him, 
 that I was very forry to fee it there, and 
 wondered how he came by it 5 for it was, 
 I afTured him, but a very imperfed trial 
 of the Plates, which I had difpofed of 
 to fome few Friends only, till I fhould 
 be able to clofe and finifli the Defign 5 
 which I now had done to my power, 
 and would redeem that Book with a bet- 
 ter Copy at my return into England^ 
 The fame Promife I renewed to the Abbe 
 LoHvok^ the Library Keeper, at his own 
 Inftance, when I had the Honour to 
 Dine with him. This young Gentleman 
 is Brother to Monfieur Barbifieux^ Inten^ 
 dant of the Affairs of War 5 he takes 
 great care to apply himfelf to his Studies, 
 and for that purpofe has two of the Sor- 
 bone conftantly with him to inftruft him* 
 He lives great, and has a Houfe which 
 pins upon the Kings Library, of which 
 he is Keeper. We were Entertained by 
 him with all the Civility imaginable, and 
 freedom of Converfation. 
 
 This Library is now placed in a Private 
 Houfe, and taken out of the Louvre^ but 
 it is intended to be removed to the Place 
 deVendofme;w\iQXQ one fide of that Magni-» 
 ficent Square is defigned for it. In the 
 niean time it is here ipoft commodioufly 
 
 difpofed 
 
10^ A Journey to Paris. 
 
 difposd into 22 Rooms ^ 14 above Stairs, 
 and 8 below and above. Thofe below are 
 Philofophy and Phyfick, and the Shelves 
 ^ are Wired, to fecure them : Above are the 
 Books of Philofophy and Human Learn- 
 ing ^ and it is into thofe Rooms only the 
 promifcous Crowd are admitted twice a 
 week. In the middle Rooms, which 
 makes the great Body of the Library, are, 
 for Example, Catalogues of Books 5 Hi- 
 ftories in one of England and Holland:^ 
 in another the Hiftories of France and 
 Germany 5 in another the Hiftories of 
 Italy^ Spain ^ &c. in other Bibles of all 
 forts, and the Interpretations ^ in another 
 Greek^MSS. in another Latin MSS. in ano- 
 ther the Civil and Municipial Laws of all 
 Nations 5 in another the Original Papers of 
 State ; in another Stamps^ where, by the 
 by, the King had the Colleftion of MonC 
 MaroUes to divert him, in one of his 
 Sicknefles, bought in at a yaft Sum : The 
 Catalogue alone of thefe Stamps, no big- 
 ger than two fmall Almanacks, coft me 
 14 Liyres ^ fo much Strangers are im- 
 pofed upon by the Crafty Bookfellers of 
 Rm St. Jaques 5 but 'tis not in France a- 
 lone, where People are made to pay for 
 their Humour. 
 
 They 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 They have Two Indexes of this Libra- 
 ry • one relating to the Matter and Con- 
 tents of Books 5 and another Index of 
 Authors, wherein are all the Works they 
 have of them, and the Titles of all like- 
 wife that they know of, that are want- 
 ing, with an Aflenfm to fucli in the M^r- 
 gent 5 which is well done, that they may 
 know what they have to buy in. It is 
 indeed a vaft Collection, and worthy fo 
 great a Prince. This Library confifts at 
 leaft of 50000 Volumes of Printed Books 3 
 and 1 5000 MSS. in all Languages. 
 
 They work daily and hard at the Ca- 
 talogue, which they intend to Print 5 I 
 faw 10 thick Folio's of it, fairly tran- 
 fcrib'd for the Prefs. It is difpofed ac- 
 cording to the Subjeft Matter of the 
 Books, as the Bibles and Expofitors, Hir 
 ftorians, Philofophers, &c. They pur- 
 pofe to put it into the Prefs this year, and 
 to finifti it within a Twelvemonth. 
 
 In the King s Library I was (hewn an 
 Ancient Greeks MS. of Dlofcorldes^ writ 
 in a fort of thin or narrow Capitals, 
 with the Plants painted in Water-co- 
 lours^ but the fifft Book was wholly 
 wanting, and therefore the Animals not 
 there, which yet was what I moft defired 
 to fee ^ for there are fome things relat- 
 ing to them, which we are at this day \xx 
 * " great 
 
10 8 A jfourney to Vms. 
 
 great doubt of ^ and it would have been 
 fome fatisfadion to have feen by the 
 Pictures, what the middle Ages, at leaft, 
 had thought of them. 
 
 In the fame Room alfo we were fhewn 
 the Epiftles ^ which was one part of the 
 fame MS. which we have at Cambridge^ 
 which is the Gofpels only. Beza was 
 poflefled of ours, from whom we had it. 
 It is written in fquare Capitals^ and very 
 ihort Lines, and much worn out in ma- 
 ny places. This comes much fhort of 
 the Alexandrian MS. at St. James s for 
 Beauty and Antiquity. 
 
 There was another MS. of the Gojpel of 
 St. Matthew^ which was but of late dif- 
 covered ^ a very fair Volume in a large 
 Folio. This was cut to pieces in the 
 back, and had been ftiuffled and bound 
 up again 5 and another Book overwritten 
 in a fmall Modern Greeks Hand, about 
 1 50 years ago. The firft Writing was 
 turned fo pale, that they took no pains 
 to rub it out. One of the Library Keep- 
 ers obferving this, hath reduced it again 
 by paging it a-new ^ and with a little 
 heeding 'tis yet very legible. The Letter 
 is as fair a fquare Capital as any I have 
 feen. There are fome Interpretations ve- 
 ry notorious, as about the Defcent of 
 the fick Man into the Pool of Bethefda 5 
 ' ' which 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 which I fuppofe will be accounted for by 
 the Induftrious and Learned Collator. 
 
 lobferved the C^^WManufcripts which 
 Father Beauvais brought this year as a 
 Prefent to the King. They are about 44 
 Packs of fraall Books, of a long Quarto 
 faftiion, put up in loofe Covers of a Pur- 
 ple Sattin glued on Paftboard 5 of Natu- 
 ral Hiftory, of Diftionaries relating to 
 the Expofition of their Charadters, &c. 
 
 The King had a jSett much of the fame 
 before in White-Sattinj with their Ti- 
 tles. 
 
 Here alfo I fee the gd Decade of Livy, 
 a large Quarto in Vellum, without Di- 
 ftindion of Words in fair large Capitals. 
 It is fuppofed by Monfieur Baluze to be 
 I ICQ year old. 
 
 Yet the Manufcript of Prudentius Hym' 
 nes, which was alfo ftiewed us, is a much 
 fairer Letter, and therefore thought to 
 , be older by one Century at leaft. 
 
 Here alfo I faw a famous Latin Roll of 
 Volume written on ^Egyptian Paper, In- 
 tituled, Charta Plenari<e Secftritatis, taken 
 the 58th year of Jujliman 5 it is fairly 
 Ingraved and Interpreted Letter by Letter 
 upon Copper by Monfieur Thevenot, I 
 faw the Print thereof : It is writ long- 
 ways the Roll and not crofs 5 in three 
 Columns : The Column in the middle is 
 
 three 
 
no A Journey to Paris. 
 
 three times as long as the two end Co- 
 lumns. The Roll is not above a foot 
 broad. 
 
 They fhewed us alfo in this Houfe, 
 the Apartment of Monfieur jyi^/^ewj-^which 
 was very Noble, and well for Air, upon 
 the Garden : But here he fell Melanchol- 
 ly, and Died of it in Holland. He fhewed 
 the firft Tokens of it by playing with a 
 Tame Sparrow, and neglefting his Ma- 
 thematick Schemes. Tfs certain, Life and 
 Health of Body and Mind are not to be 
 
 Ereferved but by the Relaxation, and un- 
 ending the Mind by Innocent Diverfions. 
 For Sleep is nothing elfe that I know off, 
 but the giving up the Reins, and letting 
 Nature to Aft alone, and to put her in 
 full pofleflion of the Body. We have a 
 convincing inftance of this, in being a 
 Bed awake : No Man can lie ftill 3 Mi- 
 nutes without turning ^ and if it come 
 not prefently upon us, we muft turn a- 
 gain and again ^ and at length we be- 
 come fo intolerably weary, that our Bed 
 is a very wrack to us. Whereas, if we 
 chance to fall a fleep, though we lie in 
 one and the fame pofture 7 hours, we 
 fhall Wake frefh and without pain, as 
 tho' the Body did not v/eigh at all upoii 
 it felf in Sleep. Tis certain, the Nerves 
 and Mufcles are in little or no Tenfion 
 
 in 
 
A Journey to Paris. 1 1 1 
 
 in Sleep ^ but when we are awake, are 
 always ftretch'd and compreiTed, whence 
 wearinefs : which-, if upon our Feet or 
 Sitting, we are not fenfible off, becaufc 
 we remove quick and with eafe, and of 
 courfe 5 but laid, we foon find our felves 
 very uneafie, till we change the pofture. 
 
 But this is not all in the King s Library : 
 There are other things to be feen, vi%. A 
 confiderable number of Ancient Roman 
 and ^Egyptian Antiquities ^ as. Lamps ^ 
 Pateras^ and other Veflels belonging to 
 the Sacrifices 5 A StjirHm of ^Egyptian 
 Rattle with three loofe afid running Wires 
 crofs it. 
 
 Amongft the great variety of JEgyptian 
 Idols^ there was one betwixt 2 and 5 foot 
 long of Black Touch-ftone, with Hiero- 
 glyphicks ingraven down before. I took 
 particular notice of the Grain of this 
 Stone 5 and at my return, having had 
 the Honour of a Paper from Mr. Afo/j/;?^z/jc 
 from Dublin^ giving an account of the 
 vaft and ftupendious Natural Pillars to be 
 feen in Ireland^ and that the Stones or 
 Joints which conftitute thefe Pillars, are 
 of the Lapis Lydim^ or Bafaltes Kind, ha- 
 ving feen one of the Joints at Grefljam-- 
 Cvlkdge^ I ealily agree with him 5 but 
 much admire, that the Feble Kind (hould 
 produce fuch regular Figures ^ which is 
 
I f 2 A Journey to Paris* 
 
 tamly the very liardeft Stone to be found 
 in Europe^ and which no Tool of ours 
 will cut. 
 
 This alfo is another Inftance (the 
 carved Oblisks being one) of the diffe- 
 rent make and goodnefs of the lEgypttaH 
 Chifels, of which, and of the retrieving 
 the ancient Temper of Steel, i have pub- 
 liiht a Difcourfe in the Py&. Tranfaifion^ 
 fome years ago. 
 
 I fhould have had more fatisfadion in 
 this Kind, had I met with what I ear- 
 neftly fought for, the JEgyptian Tombs, 
 which were a long time in the Garden of 
 Monfieur Valentine at Park 5 but were un^ 
 luckily fent away to his Houfe at Tours^ 
 not long before our coming to F ark : 
 One of thefe Tombs is faid to be of black 
 Touchftone, to have been brought out of 
 the higher Mgypt^ and to be full of Hie^ 
 rogUphtcks. Of this in particular iC^VriSer has 
 written. 
 
 There is in this Colleftion a large Piece 
 of Tin Oar from England^ very curious 5 
 it has on one fide of it a great number of 
 fair and large Opaque Cryftals of Tin, fhin- 
 ing like polifht Steel : The plaines of thofe 
 Cryftals I could not eafily reckon, but 
 fure I am, having with care examined 
 ail the Stone Cryftals, I could meet with, 
 both precious and more common, and 
 
 alfo 
 
A Journey to Paris. 1 1 3 
 
 alfo the Cryftals of all Foffil Salts, I ne- 
 ver before obferved that figure in any of 
 thero, -but believe them of a peculiar na- 
 ture, proper to Tin Oar. I call them 
 Cryftals, though Opaque, becaufe angu- 
 lar and of one conftant figure. 
 
 I was at the CoUedge of Clermont with^-^.^'*''"' 
 Fere Hardomn ^ he fhewed me the Library 
 with great Civility 5 it confifts of two 
 long Galleries ^ The Galleries are well 
 furniftit with Books, having Lights only 
 on one fide, and the Windows are not 
 over large ^ with Tables under each Light, 
 very commodioufly placed for Writing 
 and Reading. Alfo certain Clofets for 
 Manufcripts, and others for forbidden 
 Books. In this he fhewed a great Col- 
 ledlion of Janfenims Original Letters. 
 In the other a Greek Manufcript of the? 
 Prophets, of Eufebius s own Hand Writ- 
 ing ^ it was in Capitals, but of a diffe- 
 rent Character from any I had feen The 
 Letters very ere£t, but fomething thinner, 
 and not fo fquare. 
 
 Alfo a Vulgar Latm in Capitals, very 
 Ancient. 
 
 I told him I was well pleafed with his 
 Flinie in ufum Delphlni 5 and that it was to 
 the Honour of the French Nation to have 
 laboured more particularly upon that 
 
 I Au- 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Author^ DeUchampius firft, then Sdmor 
 fiuss Exercitationes Fltman£ ^ and laftly, 
 this his moft Elegant Edition. 
 
 The Books are well difpofed under 
 Gilt Titles, as Medici in Folio^ and over- 
 againft them, where the Windows will 
 permit, the Medici in ^arto 5 in the o- 
 ther Galley runs a Baluftrade, within 
 which are plact the O^avosmd Twelves. 
 
 At one end of the upper Gallery is a 
 very large Tableau, an Original of Ni- 
 cqIo^ of the Maflacer of Agamemn 5 in it 
 there is this commendable. That in fuch 
 a horrid Fury, and fuch variety of Mur- 
 ders in half naked Figures, no one inde- 
 cent pofture is to be feen. 
 
 Vere Hardouin feemed to doubt of the 
 Infer ipt ion of Palmyra put out by M. Spone 5 
 That the Gree^ was faulty, and the Syriac 
 very queftionable. I told him we had had 
 it lately Copied, carefully and truly by 
 one at Rome 5 Which took away his Ob- 
 jedion of the multiplicity of Letters. 
 
 Both he and VaUiant agreed, that they 
 had never feen any Medal oi Odenatus. 
 He very obligingly anfwered my Memoir 
 about Palmyra^ Zenobia^ and Vahalathus^ 
 with a Tranfcript of all the Coins he 
 had feen , and had in his pofleffion 3 
 which follows. 
 
A Journey to Paris^ 
 
 0\(\mmi Zenohice. 
 
 CEnTIMIA ZHNOBIA CEB. ^. Spes. efi apui 
 
 Seguinum^ p. 52. 
 Odenati mUum 'vidi ^ niji apud Occonem^ nullum 
 Palmyrenum, 
 
 Vabalathi afud Dom. Foucault rei araria ac judi* 
 ciari^e VrafeSlum in Neujlria inferiore. 
 
 A. K. A. AOM. AtPHAIANoC. CEB. capitelau^ 
 reato. Sub ipfum Aureliani mentum liter a L. abf^ti^ 
 anni numero. 
 
 P^. AtT. EPMIAC OtABAaAoOC A^H- 
 
 NOt. capite radiato. 
 5i. Arr. K. a. a. AtPHaIANOC. CEB. capite 
 
 laureato. L. A. 
 
 AVT. EPMIAC. OtABAaAqOO A0H. 
 
 capite diademate L. A. 
 
 AVT.K. A. A. AtPHaIANOC CEB. capite lau- 
 reato. L. B. 
 
 ^. AVr. EPMIAC. OtABAaA©OC. AeH- 
 
 NOt, caDite diademate. L. E. 
 IMP. C. AURELIANVS AV®. caftte radiate. 
 ^. VABALATHVS VCRIMPR. alii male 
 
 VCRIMOR. fic olim interfretatus fum. Vice 
 
 Caefaris, reBor imperii Romani. 
 IMP. C. VHABALATHVS AVG. capite radiato. 
 ip?. VICTORIA AVG. viSioria gejiat palmam & 
 
 coronam. 
 
 I 2 The 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Grand The Library of the Grand Jefidts^ near 
 the Gate St. Antoim, is a very fair Gal- 
 lery of great length and breadth, and 
 well furnilht with Books, on the very 
 top of the Houfe : They find, that Books 
 keep much drier and fweeter there, than 
 in lower Rooms, befides the adrantage of 
 a clear Sky-light. 
 
 P. Daniel is Library Keeper ^ and was 
 very Civil to me ^ he (hewed me a Letter, 
 which he had juft then received from 
 Monf. Huetius ^ the Learned Bifliop of 
 d'Auranches near Mont St. Michaels m Nor- 
 mandy 5 wherein he told him, that ha- 
 ving lately received the Catalogues of 
 Books Printed in Holland and England^ 
 during the Vv^ar ^ he found, that Learn- 
 ing was much alike at a kind of ftand in 
 Holland and France 5 but, that it had yet 
 life and vigour in Errgland^ which he re- 
 joiced at. 
 
 And, indeed, I had had the fame 
 rliought from more of the French before. 
 Even the Jefuits themfelves will be little 
 confidered^ if Learning fall into negled 
 and dl [grace. Oratory ceafed with the 
 Commonwealth of Romei^ and fo will all 
 forts of Learning without Emulation and 
 Rewards, . 
 
 He 
 
A Journey to Paris. 117 
 
 He (hewed me P. de U Chdfcs Cabinet 
 of Medals. 
 
 Alfo a Vejld of Copper found at Dee 
 in the Country of le Foreji. 
 
 Alfo a very intire Loaf or Roman 10 
 Pound weight of Red Copper, on which 
 was infcribed De£. Sec. P. X 
 
 Alfo a fquare Stone Urn, or fmall 
 Tomb, well Carved, and Infcribed. 
 
 D. M. 
 
 S V L P I C I O 
 
 NOTO. ADESTE 
 
 S V P E R 1. 
 
 I faw the Quire of the Abbey ofi'^i'i""'^^' 
 St. Germaim, and the Altar near the lower ^^'^„l''' 
 end of it ^ in which Pofition alfo I re- 
 member to have feen an Altar in the 
 Quire of St. Johns Church at Lions -.^ 
 both plain Tables. Monf. I' Abbe de Vil- 
 liers^ who has an Apartment in the Con-- 
 vent, a Learned Man, went with me, 
 and to the Library alfo ^ which is -two 
 large Galleries well furniftit ^ at the end 
 of one of them is a large Clofet of Ma- 
 nufcripts ^ alfo another Armoir in the 
 great Library, where the moft ancient 
 
 I 3 Ma- 
 
1 i 8 A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Manufcripts are kept, yet with more 
 care. In this I faw the Pfalter^ as it is 
 believed, of St. Germain^ who lived in 
 the 6th Century ^ it is certainly very an^ 
 cient^ being a large C^arto of fine purple 
 Velom, and on it are writ the Pfalms in 
 large Capital Letters, with Comma's or 
 Points. The Letters feem to have been 
 of Silver ^ and the great Initial Capitals 
 of Gold. 
 
 They fhewed alfo a Pfalter in the fhort 
 Notes of Tyro^ TuUiuss Libertus 5 with a 
 Difcourfe concerning the ufe of fuch 
 Short Hand in the beginning of the Ma- 
 nufcript ^ it was writ very fair on Ve- 
 lorn, with red Ink, as I remember. 
 
 The Codicils or Waxen Table Books 
 of the Ancients ^ which were thin Ce- 
 dar Boards about 14 inches long, and 5 
 broad, 6 or 8 of them glued together by 
 Shreds of Parchmen^ The Rims were a 
 little raifed, with a flat and broad Bor- 
 der, the better to preferve the black Wax, 
 which was fpread over them. I faw 
 more of thefe afterwards in the King's 
 Library • and by the Letter it is manifeft, 
 they were in ufe much later, than I could 
 have imagined. This here was in Latin^ 
 •and I could read here and there a Word, 
 for the ground was much torn up, as Pro 
 
 The Style or Steel 
 Pen 
 
A Journey to Paris, 1 1 ^ 
 
 Pen had cut through in many places • 
 fo that with a good Eye-glafs I could fee 
 the board bare. I take this paft to be no- 
 thing elfe, but what the Efr/jerj- in Copper 
 ufeat this day to cover their Plates with, to 
 defend from the Aqua-fortk ^ which is a 
 Compofition of Bitumen and Bees Wax. 
 
 Here alfo I faw a Manufcript of 5 or 
 4 Leaves written upon true lEgyptian 
 Paper, in which with an Eye-glafs 'twas 
 eafie to difcern, how the flags were dif- 
 pofed, length-ways and a-crofs, one o- 
 ver another. The Letters which re- 
 mained, which were but few, were large 
 and fair fquare Capitals. This Fragment 
 I take to be the moft ancient Writing 
 they have. 
 
 I Vifited in this Convent, at his Cham- p. 
 ber, Pere Mabillon^ who has fo well de- 
 ferved of the Commonwealth of Learn- 
 ing by his Writings, and particularly 
 that Excellent Book De re Diplomatic i 3 
 he feemed to me to be a very good Na- 
 tured and Free-hearted Man ^ and was 
 very well pleafed to hear, that our Ca- 
 talogue of Englijh Manufcripts was fo 
 forward in the Prefs at Oxford. He 
 thankfully owned the favour of the Cot- 
 ton Library 5 and was very forry to hear 
 of Dr. Bernard's Death, of whom he 
 
 I 4 fpoke 
 
J 20 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 fpoke very kindly ^ but he exprefled a 
 v/onderful Efteem lor Dr, Gaky the Dean 
 of Tork. 
 
 In another Converfation I had with 
 P. MabilJon^ (for he was my Neighbour, 
 and I was often \vith him) telling 
 him the Account we had brought us of 
 Vdmyrct^ and the Trafts that were writ of 
 it, and that more was intended to be pub- 
 lifht about it, he was much concerned, 
 that thofe Accounts, which were pure 
 Matters of Learning in general , were 
 written in Englijh • and he told me, he 
 was afraid it might be with us, as it was 
 with them, fince they cultivated their 
 own Language fo much, they began to 
 tiegled the ancient Tongues, the Gm^and 
 
 He fhewed me certain Fi'gures not ill 
 taken with Red Chalk, of fome very an- 
 cient Monuments obferved by fome of 
 the Fathers of their Order one of which 
 was prefent in the Chamber, upon the 
 Mountain of Framovd near Salme^ which 
 T|es in the middle of that Traft of the 
 Mountain, called L^i Fauge^ betwixt Al- 
 face and Lorraine. There were great Re^ 
 mains of an ancient City. Thefe Fi- 
 gures which the Fathers (hewed me, were 
 about J 2 in all ^ but 5 or 6 of them were 
 pf Mercury 3 a Copk at his Foot ; a Chla-: 
 
A Journey to Paris. 121 
 
 p/j/s knotted upon the Right Shoulder, 
 hanging at his Back 5 his Hair laid in 
 curies about his Face, and tied with a 
 Ribban, whofe two ends might be feen 
 pn the top of hi? Head, like Horns 5 a 
 Cadticem in his Hand, which was very 
 differently reprefented in all the Figures 
 of him 5 fometimes held up, othertimes 
 the point refting at his Feet 5 fometimes 
 the Snakes were twifted about a Stick 5 
 and again in others without one, or the 
 Defigner had taken no notice of it ^ fome- 
 times the Tail of the Serpents fpread and 
 flying about, and again in others clofe 
 twifted with many braids 5 a Girdle came 
 round the bottom of his Belly, and which 
 had in the middle of it two Rings, one 
 faftned to the other, and hanging be- 
 twixt his Legs. Thefe many Statues of 
 Mercury in a French Country are a con- 
 firmation of what C£far fays of the Reli- 
 gion of the Gaules^ in his 6th Book, Deum 
 maxime Mer curium colunt : hujus Junt pluri-- 
 pi^ fimuldcrd^ d^c. 
 
 There were fome few Romdn Letters on 
 fome of them, which were fo imperfed 
 that I could make nothing of them. 
 
 The Library of St. Genevieue is a very Library of 
 large and fair Gallery, upon the very top 
 qf the Houfe, well ftored with Books on 
 
 both 
 
122 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 both fides up to the top, and kept inCafeS 
 wired with Brafs ^ which is a good fecu- 
 rity, and hinders not the Books from be- 
 ing feen* 
 
 Alfo it is adorned with fair Bujio's of 
 the ancient Men of Learning. 
 
 The Mufaum is a little Clofet on the 
 fide of this Gallery ; of which there is a 
 Book lately publifht: I faw in it very 
 little of Natural Hiftory, that was re- 
 markable. They keep half a dozen Joints 
 of a large Comu Ammonk^ which they 
 fhew as a rarity. But it is well ftored 
 with ancient Idols^ and Sacrificing Vejfels^ 
 Lacrymatoirs^ Pateras^ Strigils 5 alfb an- 
 cient Weights and Meajures :^ Coins^ and 
 particularly the Jx, and its firft and latter 
 Divifions. 
 
 There we faw an ancient As^ v/ith 
 Etrufcan Letters of a kind of red Copper 5 
 The Letters feem to be a-kin to the old 
 Greeks Charafters. Thefe are the Capital 
 Letters about the Coin going round, and 
 bringing every Letter before you. See 
 Table I. Figure 2. 
 
 As cjuaft JEs • This is very reafonable, 
 for before the Greeks had invented double 
 Letters, the Romans were skilled in their 
 t at. Writing. So Vitruvius f tells us Mrugo was 
 T.^^^Ed/ the Hetrufcan Tongue called Eruca 5 
 BarbarL Whcnce Undoubtedly by Tranflation the 
 
 com- 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 common Caterpillar had its Name, from its 
 bluemfs 5 which alfo is an evidence, that 
 the Tufcan Writing was in the old Greeks 
 Character. 
 
 But nothing pleafed me more than to 
 have feen the Remains of the Cabinet of 
 the Noble Pierefc. the greateftandheartieft 
 M£ce/^as to his power of Learned Men of 
 any of this Age. 
 
 Amongft the firft and very old Brafs 
 Roman Coins there was a Sextans with a 
 Caduceus of Mercury on one fide, and a 
 Scallop Shell on the other • probably, be- 
 caufe they might have at firft had the ufe 
 of Shell Money ^ as fome parts of both the 
 Indies and Africa have at this day, till 
 Mercury^ whofe Emblem that Staff is, 
 taught them the ufe of Metallic Money. 
 
 Alfo in this Cabinet are Wet Mea- 
 fures, as the Ancient Congim^ of which 
 they have an old one, and an exaft Co- 
 py of that of the Capitol • alfo a Sextarius^ 
 and a ^artarius. Now the Congius con- 
 taining 1:^0 Ounces 2, The Sextaripis 20 
 Ounces^ The Hemina 10 Ounces^ The 
 ^artarius 5 Ounces, I doubt not but the 
 Cyathtis^ by reafon of the aforefaid Divifi- 
 on, held two Ounces and an half ^ which 
 is the Meafure fo frequently to be met 
 with in old Phyfic Authors, and of fo 
 great concern in Dofes, 
 
 In 
 
124 ^ Journey to Paris. 
 
 In that Hetrufcan As before-mentioned, 
 one Cap coifs or covers th« double head 
 of Janus. I faw an ancient Statue of 
 Mercury in the Garden belonging to the 
 icings Library in Park^ where Mercury 
 has upon his Head a long Cap doubled, 
 or laid double upon his Head, as though 
 there were fome affinity betwixt thofe two 
 Inventors of Trade, Arts and Learning. 
 
 Here alfo we faw the Steel Dyes of the 
 Vadiian Brothers^ by which they ftampt 
 and falfified the beft ancient Medals fo 
 well, that they are not to be diftinguilht 
 but by f utting them into thofe Molds 5 
 which makes them very valuable, there 
 being a 100 and more of them, and are 
 prifed at 10000 Crowns. They Stamp t 
 upon old Medals, whereby the Cheat was 
 the greater 5 for by this means they were 
 of the ancient Mettal, had the green Coat, 
 and the fame ragged Edges. 
 
 I faw a Pifture here of about 6 inches 
 over, finely painted in Mofaic^ the very 
 little fquares were fcarce vifible to the 
 naked Eye, but the whole appeared like 
 the fineft Hatchings in Stampes 5 yet by 
 the application of a good Eye-glafs, I 
 could readily diftinguifti the fquares of all 
 colours, as in other Mofaiques. This forfr 
 of Painting had a very admirable effect, 
 befides the duration, 
 
 Here 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 Here was alfo the Leg of a Mummi 
 well preferv'd, the Toes only bare, black 
 and ftiining as Pitch : The Bandage was 
 very curious and was difpofed in Oblique 
 Circles, Decuflated ^ but the Filiating very 
 narrow. I told the Father, that this was 
 ftill Flefh 5 and that Mumtnie therefore 
 in Vemce-Trtadc did break Lent, if given 
 at that time 5 He anfwered, he did not 
 believe it : I told him how he fhould be 
 convinced, viz. If that Leg was kept a 
 gO(^d while in a damp Cellar, it would 
 yield and ftink like very Carrion, tho* 
 it was at leaft 5000 years old 5 which 
 thing happened to one in London^ fo 
 carelefly laid by. 
 
 There was one thing very curious, and 
 that was an Ancient Writing hjimment of 
 thick and ftrong Silver-Wire, wound up 
 like a hollow Bottom or Screw 5 with 
 both the Ends pointing one way, and at 
 a diftance 5 fo that a Man might eafily 
 put his Fore-Finger betwixt the two Points, 
 and the Screw fills the Ball of his Hand. 
 One of the Points was the Point of a 
 Bodkin, which was to Write on Waxed 
 Tables : The other Point was made very 
 Artificially, like the Head and Upper- 
 Beak of a Cock, and the Point divided 
 in two, juft like our Steel-Pem 3 from 
 whence undoubtedly the Moderns had 
 
 their 
 
126 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 their Patterns ^ which are now made al- 
 fo of fine Silver and Gold, or Princes 
 Mettal ; all which yet want a Spring, and 
 are therefore not fo ufeful as of Steel, 
 or a Quill : But a Quill foon fpoils 5 
 Steel is undoubtedly the beft, and if you 
 ufe CMm Ink, the moft laftingof all Inks, 
 it never rufts the Pen, but rather pre- 
 ferves it with a kind of Varnifh which 
 dries upon it, though you take no care 
 in wiping it. 
 
 M coiherts ^ Library of the late Monfieur 
 
 Library. Colbert^ that great Patron of Learning. 
 The Gallery wherein the Printed Books 
 are kept, is a Ground-Room, with Win- 
 dows on one fide only, a-long a fine Gar- 
 den* It is the neateft Library in Fam^ 
 very large, and exceedingly well furniftit. 
 At the upper-end is a fair Room, where- 
 in the Papers of State are kept 5 particu- 
 larly thofe of the Adminiftrationof Car- 
 dinal Mazarwe^ and his own Accounts 
 when he was in Employment : Thefe 
 make up many hundred Folio's, finely 
 Bound in Red Maroquin and Gilt. 
 
 The Manufcript Library is above- 
 ftairs, in three Rooms, and is thechoiceft 
 of that kind in Paris : It contains 6610 
 Volumes. The Catalogue of them Mon- 
 fieur 
 
A Journey to Paris- i 
 
 fieur Balure fhewed me 5 which he faid 
 was defigned ftiortly for the Prefs. 
 
 He fhewed me many rare Books, Caro- 
 lus CalvHss Bible, a vaft Folio in Vellum, 
 and his Prayer Book or Hours, all writ 
 in Gold Letters. 
 
 Alfo the Mijfa Beati Rhemm^ whereof 
 all the Copies were burnt but four. The 
 Original Deed of the Agreement of the 
 Greek and Roman Church at Florence. 
 The Regalia agreed upon at Lyons^ and 
 many others which I have forgot. 
 
 I law neither Greek nor Latin Manu- 
 fcript but what had the Marks of the 
 Goths upon them : that is, the Letters 
 maimed, and confequently not very An- 
 cient. 
 
 He (hewed us Servktos Book,for which 
 he was Burnt at Geneva:^ which coft Mon- 
 fieur Colbert at an Audtion in England^ 25 
 Crowns. The Title is, De Trinitatis Er- 
 ror ibus Ltbri 7. per Michaelam Serveto alias 
 Reves ab Aragoma Hijpamm 1 551. I had 
 forgot the particular place where the 
 Circulation of the Blood through the 
 Lungs is mentioned : but he told me very 
 Civilly, I fhould have it Tranfcribed at 
 any time. 
 
 We told him, we came to fee him as 
 well as the Library : He replied, It was 
 his hap to have more Reputation than 
 
 Merit. 
 
128 A Journey to Park 
 
 Merit. He was a little old Mart , but 
 very chearful and of a quick Wit 
 
 He complained much of the Refufal of 
 the Emperors People concerning the 
 Manufcripts of Vienna^ in order to the 
 publication of the CapituUtres : For he 
 iaid, Letters were never at War i That 
 for his part he had moft willingly given 
 le^ve for at leaft Twenty four Manu- 
 fcdpts to be Collated for Dr. MtWs Edi- 
 tion of the Teftament. 
 
 vhrary of The Library of the Sorhonm is a very 
 ffe Sjr. long and large Gallery, reafonable well 
 ftored with Books ^ no Catalogue Prin- 
 ted. 
 
 Amongft the Manufcripts, they ftiew, 
 Titus Uvy in Frmch^ upon Vellum, in a 
 very large Folio, Bound in two Books : 
 The firft is almoft throughout Illuminated 
 with very fine Miniatures. The Book is 
 Dedicated to King ^ohn, hyPelon.Bercho- 
 rius : And in the Title Page is a very cu« 
 rious Defign of that King receiving the 
 Prefent from the Author of the Tranfla- 
 tion. 
 
 Amongft the Illuminations and Orna- 
 mental Piftures in the Margent, I could 
 not but take notice of a Br a fs Camion fired, 
 well Painted, with two large Arms or 
 Gudgeons, one on each fide near the 
 
 Touch- 
 
^ A Journey to Paris. i2p 
 
 Touch-hole ^ which Evinces Cannon to 
 have been in ufe at that time. 
 
 This Manufcript confirms the lofs of 
 Titus Livy^ and that it was deficient in 
 that Age, as to v/hat is now wanting, 
 there being nothing more in this than 
 what is in the Printed Copy. This was 
 the Gift of Cardinal Richlieu to the Li- 
 brary ^ who in a manner Rebuilt the 
 whole College, and Beautified it as it is. 
 His Tomb is in the middle of the Quire, 
 before the great Altar, in White Marble 5 
 and is for plainnefs and exquifite Perfor- 
 mance^ the beft thing of that kind I ever 
 faw. 
 
 I fee the Library of St.Vldfor: This Library . 
 moft Antient Convent is the beft feated 
 of any in Paris • has very large Gardens, 
 with fhady Walks, well kept. The Li- 
 brary is a fair and large Gallery : It is 
 open three days a week, and has a range 
 of double Desks quite through the mid- 
 dle of it, with Seats and Conveniencies 
 of Writing for 40 or 50 People. 
 
 The Catalogue was not finiiht, nor in- 
 tended to be Printed 5 which yet I think 
 is always neceffary in all Corporations, 
 for check of lofs of Books , for the ufe 
 of Strangers, for Benefadions. 
 
 K 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 In a part of it, at the upper end, afe 
 kept the Manufcripts ^ they are faidtobe 
 3000 ^ which though not very Ancient, 
 have yet been found very uf^ul for the 
 nioft corred Editions of many Authors. 
 This is one of the pleafanteft Rooms that 
 can be feen, for the Beauty of its Pro- 
 fped, and the Quiet and Freedom from 
 Noife in the middle of fo great a City. 
 
 In this Convent is very prettily lodged, 
 in an outward Court, Monfieur Morw^ 
 another Phyfitian of that Name. In his 
 Apartment, he hath a large and excellent 
 CoIIeftion of Phyfick Books and Natural 
 Hiftory. He Saluted me with the greateft 
 Kindnefs imaginable^ and at firft word, 
 ask'd me, If there was any more of Sir 
 Francis WilJotfghbys Works Printed be- 
 fides his Fliftory of Fifhes^ and that other 
 of Birds both which he had. He had 
 in another Room a well ftored Mufaeum 
 of Natural Hiftory, of all forts, and of 
 comparative Anatomies : A Cabinet of 
 Shells, another of Seeds, among which 
 were fom.e from China : Variety of Ske« 
 letons, Cr. 
 
 I fav/ the Celejiins. The Library is an 
 Upper-Gallery, very pleafant, and plen- 
 tifully furnifht with Books. This is a 
 
 very 
 
A Jaurney to Paris. 131 
 
 very fine Convent 5 with the nobleft Dor- 
 toire^ having open Galleries round : alfo^ 
 very large Gardens, with Alleys and fhadv 
 Groves^ and divers Kitchin-Gardens.wdl 
 Cultivated. • Alfo a Vineyard of White- 
 Wine Grapes, well kept y which is the 
 only thing of that Kind within the 
 Walls of P^m. 
 
 Here I alfo faw the Clofet or Cell of 
 P. Hochercdu who had a very choice 
 Colleftion of Original Paintings, of very 
 many of the beft Mafters : Amongft the 
 reft , I took notice of the Originals of 
 Rambrant^ excellent Pieces, St- Peter aird 
 the Cock^: The Nativity of our Saviour : And, 
 The Maffdcre of the Innocents. HiS Co- 
 louring is not to be imitated: his Inven- 
 tion great and natural, and the Defign 
 moft correct. 
 
 I was to Vifit Fere Mallehranche of the Le^P r^-s 
 Fathers of the Oratory : They live very J^.J^^'^' 
 neatly together in a kind of Comniu- p. liaik. 
 nity , but under no Rule : He was 
 very handfomely lodged , in a Rcoiii 
 well furnifht : He is a very tall, lean 
 man, of a ready Wit and chearfal Con- 
 verfation. 
 
 After 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 After an hours difcourfe, he carried me 
 into the Fublick Library of the Hoiife t A 
 fair Gallery well lighted, and well fur- 
 nidi t with Books with an Apartment at 
 the upper end for Manufcripts, where 
 were many Greek and Hebrew. Amongft 
 the reft, the Library-Keeper fhewed us 
 the Samaritan Pentateuch^ of which Morin 
 made ufe. It feemed to me to be much 
 later than that of Sir John Cottons Libra- 
 ry with us, becaufe it was of a much 
 fmaller Letter, and more broken in the 
 Vviiting, which was all I am capable 
 lo judge by. 
 
 They were bufie in Reforming the 
 Difpofition of the Library- and makings 
 a good Catalogue, according to the Me- 
 thod of the late Archbifhop of Rhelms :^ 
 and wliich I liked well of, they had 
 drawn out fome Hundreds of Books, and 
 expofed them in the middle of the Li- 
 brary, upon a long Table, for Sale, as 
 being Duplicates 5 and from the Sale 
 of them to furnifli themfelves with what 
 ilicy wanted. 
 
 The Books which were written by 
 Protcftants, I obferved, they were lockt 
 up in Wired Cafes, not to be come at 
 ■^T'ithout particular leave. 
 
 • The 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 The Freedom and Nature of this Order 
 puts me in mind of what I heard of a 
 certain rich and learned 'Man , Monfieur 
 Pinet^ of the Law 5 who put himfelf at 
 length into Religion, as they fay, amongft 
 the Fathers ^ but firft perfuaded his Cook 
 to do fo too ^ for he was refol ved not to 
 quit his good Soupes, and fuch Diflies as 
 he liked, whatever became of his Penance 
 and Retirement. This Compliment the 
 Elegant and Learned Monfieur Peletier^ in 
 Monfieur Colbert's place, Controller Gene- 
 ral of the Finances^ made his Guefts at 
 his Country Houfe near Choljy , having 
 voluntarily quitted all his Imployments 
 at Court: He faid, HerefervedhisCook^ 
 tho' he retrencht the reft of his Retinue 5 
 they might therefore expeft a flender Phi- 
 lofophers Dinner, tho' well dreft. 
 
 It is wonderful to confider hov/ moft 
 of the reft of the Orders abiife themfeives 
 for God's Sake, as they call it. Hunger 
 and Ill-Diet not only deftroys a Man s 
 Health , but Maugre all his Devotion , 
 puts him out of Humour, and makes 
 him Repine and Envy the reft of Man- 
 kind^ and well if it do not make him 
 alfo Curfe in his Heart his Maker ^ Job 
 is not every Mans Roll to kdc. The 
 Original and Rife of Natural Phiiofophy 
 
 K 3 and 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 and Phyfick was ttf Invent a more whol- 
 feme and better Food, than the Beafts 
 liave, and to Eat Bread and Flefh inftead 
 of Herbs and Corn ^ to Drink Wine in- 
 ftead of Watery thofe, and a thoufand 
 ether tilings were the Bleffings of Phyfick, 
 and ftill the good management of thefe 
 things^ both in Health and Sicknefs, are 
 under the Directions of the Phyfitians. 
 Nvow for a fort of Melancholly and WiUful 
 Men, to renounce thefe Comforts, and 
 deftroy their Healths, and all this upon 
 a pretended Principle of Religion and De- 
 votion, feems to me, I confefs, great In- 
 gratitude to God the Author of it. 
 
 Indeed, I heartily pitied P. an in- 
 
 duftrious honeft Man, after his return 
 from tiie Indxs^ who was nothing but 
 Skin and Bone 5 and yet by the Rules 
 of his Crder he could not Eat any thing 
 that was wholfome and proper for his 
 Curc:^ nothing but a little flimy nafty 
 I ifn and Herbs : And tho' he took, as 
 lie told me, HypocGchoana five times, it 
 had no efFefl: upon him. Tis true, I 
 never heard him complain 5 But what 
 will not blind prejudice do ag^inft all the 
 Reafon of Mankind, 
 
A journey to Paris, 
 
 I know fome of thefe Men have been 
 ufeful to Mankind by their Studies 5 but 
 the very fame men would have been 
 much more, had they ftaid with their 
 Neighbours, and Taught the World by 
 their Converfation and Example 5 Wif- 
 dom, and Juftice, and Innocence, and 
 Temperance, which they highly pretend 
 to, are not things to be hid in Corners, 
 but to be brought forth to Inftruft and 
 Adorn the Age we live in : To abandon 
 the World, and all the Conveniencies of 
 Life and Health, is (let them fay what 
 they pleafe) the height of Chagrin, and 
 not Religion. 
 
 There were fome other Publick Libra- 
 ries I faw, as that of the Gratis A^/g^t- 
 Jf?i//T,ColIedge Mazarm^ Colledge Navarre^ 
 and great many more I did not fee for 
 want of an opportunity ^ but there is 
 nothing particular I remember about 
 them. 
 
 There is fuch a paffion of fitting up 
 for Libraries,that Books are com^ to moik 
 unreafonabie Rates. 
 
 I paid to Anijfon 36 Livres ^CA Nizo- 
 lius 20 Livres for the TwT> lniai I Qiiar- 
 to's of the Memoirs of the Academic dc 
 Sciences^ that is, as I may fiy, for two 
 years Philofophick Tranfaftions 5 frrr 
 they began thofe Monthly M':^moir3 in 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 imitation of ours, out of the Regifters 
 of the Academy, but did not think fit to 
 continue them above two years. 
 
 As to Stamps^ I had a mind to have 
 bought a corapleat Set of Melans^ that in- 
 comparable Mafter 5 but I was askt 200 
 Livres, and 12 excepted, which might 
 amount to as much more 5 for fome of 
 his Cravings in OBavo done at Rome^ 
 they askt me a Piftol a-piece ^ and for 
 the Head of Jufiinianus 2i Louis 3 which 
 yet is his Mafter-piece. 
 
 I was at an Auction of Books in the 
 Rue St. Jaques, where were about 40 or 
 50 People, moft Abbots and Monks. The 
 Books were fold with a great deal of 
 trifling and delay as with us, and very 
 dear 5 for Hijpama il/^Jirata Atid. Sciotti^ 
 of the Franc fort Edition, from 20 Livres, 
 at which it was fet, they bid up by little 
 and little to 56 Livres^ at which it was 
 fold. The next was a Catalogue of French 
 Books in a thin Fol. in an old Parchment 
 Cover by De la Croix de Maine^ 8 Livres. 
 And fo I left them to fhift it amongft 
 themfelves. 
 
 i\fter having faid fo much of the Rub- 
 lick. Libraries^ 1 cannot but congratulate 
 their happiiiefs, to have them fo well fe- 
 cured from Fire:, it being one of the 
 Perfeftions of this City to be fo built and 
 
 furnifhtj 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 furnifht, as not to have fufFered by it 
 thefe many Ages , and, indeed, I cannot . 
 fee how Malice it felf could deftroy them, 
 for the Houfes here are all built of Stone, 
 Walls, Floors, Staircafes and all, fome 
 few Rooms excepted ^ no Wainfcot 5 
 Woollen or Silk Hangings, which can- 
 not be fired without giving notice by the 
 intolerable ftench, and the fupply of 
 much Fuel. 'Tis well for US in London^ 
 that there are very few publick Libraries, 
 and thofe fmall and inconfiderable, and 
 that the great number of Books are di- 
 ftributed into a thoufand hands, (no 
 Country in Europe can compare to us for 
 private Libraries) for if they were toge- 
 ther in fuch vafk quantities as in Park^ 
 Learning would run the hazard of daily 
 fuffering. Here with us , me-thinks., 
 every Man that goes to Bed, when a- 
 fleep, lies like a dead Roman upon a Fu- 
 neral Pile, dreading fome unexpected Apo- 
 theofis 5 for all is combuftible about him, 
 and the Paint of the Deal Boards may 
 ferve for Incenfe, the quicker to burn 
 him to Afhes. 
 
 In the next place I will Account for 
 what I law, that feemed to me Angular 
 and new in the Improvement of Arts, 
 or wanting in our Country, 
 
 I 
 
'38 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 potterieo£ J faw thc Potterie of Sl Qoh, with 
 *s/.c^«. ^jjj^j^ J marvelloufly well pleafed, 
 for I confefs I could not diftinguifh be- 
 twixt the Pots made there, and the fineft 
 Chim Ware I ever faw. It will, I know, 
 be eafily granted me, that the Paintings 
 may be better defigned and finifht, (as 
 indeed it was ) becaufe our Men are far 
 better Matters in that Art, than the Chi- 
 Ttefes 5 but the Glaring came not in the 
 leaft behind theirs, not for whitenefs, 
 nor the fmoothnefs of running without 
 t Bubles 5 again, the inward Subjiance and 
 Matter of the Pots was, to me, the very 
 fame, hard and firm as Marble, and the 
 felf fame grain, on this fide vitrification. 
 Farther, the Tranfparency of the Pots the 
 very fame. 
 
 I fee them alfo in the Mold, undried, 
 and before the Painting and Glazing was 
 applied, they were as white as Chalk, 
 and melted upon the Tongue like raw To- 
 bacco Pipe Clay, and felt betwixt the 
 Teeth foft like that, and very little grit- 
 ty 5 fo that I doubt not, but they are 
 made of that very Clay. 
 
 As to the Temper of the Clay, the 
 Man freely owned to me, it was 5 or 4 
 times well beaten and wet, before it was 
 put to work on the Wheel 3 but I believe 
 
 it 
 
A Journey to Paris. 139 
 
 it muft firft be melted in fair Water, and 
 carefully drawn off, that the heavieftpart 
 may firft fink ^ which alfo may be proper 
 for Courfer Works* 
 
 That it required two, and fometimes 
 3 or 4 Fires to bake it, to that height we 
 faw it in the moft finifht Pots 2 Nay, 
 fome of them had had 1 1 Fires. 
 
 I did not exped to have found it in 
 this perfection, but imagined this might 
 have arrived at the Gomron Ware ^ which 
 is, indeed, little elfe, but a total Vitrifi- 
 cation 5 but I found it far otherwife, and 
 very furprifing, and which I account part 
 of the felicity of the Age to equal, if not 
 furpafs the Chmefes in their fineft Art. 
 
 . As for the Red Ware of Chim^ that has 
 been, and is done in England^ to a far 
 greater perfection than in China^ we ha- 
 ving as good Materials, viz. the Soft: H£^ 
 matites^ and far better Artifts in Pottery. 
 But in this particular we are beholding 
 to two Dntchmen Brothers, who wrought 
 in Staffbrdjhire^ (as I have been told) and 
 were not long fince at Hammerfmith. 
 
 They fold thefe Pots at St. Clou at ex- 
 ceflive Rates 5 and for their ordinary Cho- 
 colate Cups askt Crowns a-piece. They 
 had arrived at the Burning on Gold in 
 neat Chequer Works. He had fome Fur- 
 nitures of Tea Tables at 400 Livres a 
 Sett, ' There 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 There was no Molding or Model q£ 
 Chh/a Ware, which they had not imitat- 
 ed ^ and had added many Fancies of 
 their own, which had their good efFefts^ 
 and appeared very beautiful. 
 
 Monf. Morin in Converfation told me^ 
 that they kept their Sand as a Secret to 
 themfelvs ^ but this could not be for o- 
 ther purpofes than Colouring : Alfo he 
 faid they ufed Salt of Kelp in the Com- 
 pofition, ajid made a thing not unlike 
 Frit for Glafs to be wrought up with 
 White Clay 5 neither could this be, for 
 I did not tafte it ki the Raw Pots. 
 
 The Ingenuous Mafter told me, he had > 
 been 2 5 years about the Experiment, but 
 had not attained it fully, till within this 
 5 years. 
 
 Giaferie. The GUfs-houfe out of the Gate of 
 St. Antoine well deferves feeing 5 but I 
 did lament the Fondery was no longer 
 there, but removed to Cherborm in Nor- 
 mandy for cheapnefs of Fuel. Tis cer- 
 tainly a moft confiderable addition to 
 the Glafs-making. For I faw here one 
 Looking-glafs foiled and finifht, 88 inches 
 long, and 48 inches broad ^ and yet but 
 one quarter of an inch thick. This, I 
 think, could never be effefted by the 
 jBlaft of any Man ^ but I fuppofe to be 
 
 ruii 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 run or caft upon Sand, as Lead is 3 which 
 yet, I confefs, the toughnefs of Glafs 
 Mettal makes very much againft. 
 
 There they are pohflied 5 which Im- 
 ploys daily 600 Men, and they hope in 
 a little time to employ a 1000 in fevera! 
 Galleries. In the lower they grind the 
 courfe Glafs with a Sand Stone, the vei-y 
 fame they Pave the Streets in Park • of 
 which broken they have great heaps in 
 the Courts of the Work-houfes : This 
 Stone is beat to Powder, and fifted throu<^h 
 a fine Tamis. In the Upper Gallery 
 where they polifh and give the laft Hand 
 they work in 5 Rowes, and 2 Men at a 
 Plate, with Ruddle or Powdered Haematites 
 in Water. 
 
 The Glaffes are fet faft in White Puttie 
 upon flat Tables of Stone, fawed thin 
 for that purpofe. The grinding the 
 Edges and Borders is very troublefome 
 and odious for the horrid grating noife 
 it makes, and which cannot be endured 
 to one that is not ufed to it 5 and yet by 
 long cuftom thefe Fellows arefo eafie with 
 It, that they Difcourfe together as nothing 
 were. This is done below, and out of 
 the way of the reft. 
 
 Tis very diverting to fee the joint La- 
 bour ot fo many Men upon one Subjed. 
 This has made Glafs for Coaches very 
 
 cheap 
 
142 A Journey to Paris* 
 
 cheap and common ^ fo that even many 
 of the Fiacres or Hackneys, and all the 
 Remifes have one large Glafs before. 
 
 jirtificui Amongft the Btoux made at P^m, a 
 Pearl. great quantity of Artificial Pearl is td be 
 had, of divers forts 5 but the beft are 
 thofe which are made with Scales of 
 Bleakes. Thefe Bleaks they fifti in the 
 River Seine at Faris^ and fell them to the 
 Pearl-makers for that purpofe. 
 
 Monf Favi^ at the Pearle d'Angleterre^ 
 told me, that he paid for the Filh only 
 of the little River Tier of Ville Neuve 
 St. George^ 4 Leagues ofTof Paris^ by the 
 year no Piftols. ThisFifh in French is 
 called De la Bellette : Sometimes in Win- 
 ter he has had 30 Hampers of the Fifh 
 brought him, for the Scales only which 
 he ufes in Pearl-making. He fells fome 
 Strings for a Piftol ; and they have for^ 
 merly been fold much dearer. This fort 
 is very neat and lafting. 
 
 Enquiring of a Goldfmith, a great 
 Dealer in Pearl, about thofe which were 
 made of the Scales of Fiflies, he told me, 
 that it was fo ^ That the Scales were beat 
 to Powder, and that made into a Liquid 
 Paft with Icing-glafs, and caft into the 
 hollow Glafs Beads, and fo gave the co- 
 lour by way of foil from the infidj^. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 143 
 
 1 askt him, if he had any Frefti Wa- 
 ter and Mnfck Pearl 5 and he forthwith 
 (hewed me one of 23 Grains, of a blufli 
 colour or faint Cornation, perfectly glo- 
 bular 5 he told me, he valued it at 400 /. 
 for that it would mix or match better 
 with the Oriental Sea Pearl, than the 
 bluifli ones. Further, he afliired me he 
 had feen Pearl of 60 odd Grains of Frefli 
 Water Mufcles 5 and fome Pear faftiion- 
 ed. That in Lorrain, and at Sedan, they 
 fiftit many Pearls in the Rivers there- 
 about. 
 
 The formerly fo famous a Workhoufe, Th^G^h-] 
 the Goblins, is miferably fallen to decay 3 
 perhaps, becaufe the King having fur- 
 niftit all his Palaces, has little more to do 
 for them. 
 
 Here I faw the making Marble Tables^ 
 inlaid with all forts of coloured Stones. 
 
 Alfo the Atteliers or Work-houfes of 
 Two of the famous Sculptures Tnby 5 in 
 which was a Lacoon Copied in White 
 Marble admirably 5 alfo that other of 
 ^oifivox, in which was, amongft other 
 rare Pieces, Cajlor & Pollux, in White 
 Marble, exceeding beautiful and large 5 
 a Copy alfo after the Antique, 
 
 At 
 
 / 
 
144 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Hiihins. At Hubim the Eye-maker., I faw Drawers 
 full of all forts of Eyes, admirable for 
 tlie contrivance, to match with great ex- 
 adnefs any Iris whatfoever : This being a 
 cafe, where mif-matching is intolerable. 
 
 He himfelf alfo formerly wrought in 
 falfe Pearl, and affirmed, that theGlafs 
 Pearls were painted within with a Pafte 
 made of the Scales of the Bleaks only 3 
 which he faid was a good Trade here to 
 the Fiftiermen, who fold the Scales for fo 
 much the Ounce. Thefe Necklaces were 
 formerly fold at great Prices, 2 or 3 Pi- 
 ftoles a-piece. 
 
 La platre- I faw the Platrerie or Plajier ^tarries 
 near Montmartre^ and the manner of burn- 
 ing of it. Tis burnt with open Fire, fet 
 up againft it 5 The hardeft Stone is burnt 
 enough in 2 or 3 hours time. 
 
 The top Band or Bed is very hard like 
 a Free-ftone, they diftinguifh the Beds by 
 feveral Names, L e. i. Mutton., 2. Lane., 
 3. Bujier^ 4. Cltkar^ 5. Grosban^ 6. Pil/ier 
 noir^ d^c. 
 
 That which they call Lane is like Talke 
 or Selenites tranfparent, and fplitsin thin, 
 flakes 5 but there is but little of it, and 
 the Beds arefmall This feems to be but a 
 Fhior to the greater Beds of grey Stone. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 This Ro€k is covered with a kind of gray 
 Sand to a great depth ; which is not of 
 the nature of Plafter. 
 
 Though this Plafter burnt is never ufed 
 (that I could learn) to fertilize either Corn 
 Ground, or Pafture, as our Limeftone is 5 
 yet I fee no reafon^ why it may not, it 
 being full of Nitre, if it has lain long in 
 damp Caves. 
 
 This is not peculiar to Paris only 5 for 
 I have feen Qparries of it ne^iv Clijford- 
 Moore in Tork^Jhire 5 where it is calfd 
 HaU-Plajier. 
 
 I cannot omit the Mill-jloms^ which MiJt^pnes. 
 they grind their Wheat with at Parls^ as 
 upon the River of the Gobelim out of the 
 Gate St. Bernard^ where it falls into the 
 Seine ^ and all throughout Picay'dj/ down 
 to Calais^ where I have feen great num- 
 bers of them. 
 
 Thefe Mill-ftones are very ufeful, and 
 fo fweet, that not the leaft grit is ever 
 found in their Bread : They are moftly 
 made up of pieces, 2,^5, or more fet to- 
 gether by a cement, and hooped round 
 with Iron to keep the pieces fafter toge- 
 ther : They are made of a kind of Honey- 
 comb Stone^ wrought by the petrification 
 of Water, or StaUBites. The very felf- 
 fams Stone I have feen Rocks of on the 
 
 h River 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 River Banks at Knarsborough^ at the Drop- 
 ping Well in TorkeJInre : therefore I ad- 
 vife my Countreymen to put thefe ex- 
 cellent Stones in practice 5 for certainly no 
 place ftands in more need of it 5 for the 
 Bread in the North of £;^^/W is into- 
 lerably gritty, by reafon of thofe 5W 
 or MooKe Stones^ with which they grind 
 their Corn. 
 
 Thefe Stones are fold at 500 Livres a 
 pair ^ whence they come I forgot to be 
 informed- 
 
 In the next place we will fee how the 
 Farijians Eat^ Drink, and Divert them- 
 selves. 
 
 Of the Food of the Parifians. 
 
 The Diet of the Pm/^w confifts chief- 
 ly of Bread and Herbs 5 it is here, as 
 with us, ^ner and courfer. But the com- 
 mon Bread, or Fain de Gonejfe, which is 
 brought twice a week into Paris from a 
 Village fo called, is purely white, and 
 firm and light, .and made altogether 
 with Leaven ^ moftly in 3 Pound Loaves, 
 and 5 ^- a Pound. That which is Bak'd 
 in Paris is courfer and much worfe. 
 
 As for the Manchet, or French 
 Bread, as we call it, I cannot much com-' 
 mend it ; it is- of late, fince the quantity 
 
 of 
 
A Journey to Paris* 
 
 of Beer that is Brewed in P^w, often fo 
 bitter, that it is not to be eaten, and we far 
 exceed them now in this particular iu 
 Londort. 
 
 The Gray Salt of France (which there, 
 at Table, is altogether in every thing 
 made ufe of) is incomparably better and 
 more wholfome than our White Salt 
 This I the rather mention, becaufe it 
 feems not yet to enter fully into the con- 
 fideration and knowledge of our People 5 
 who are nice in this particular to a fault 
 But I muft take leave to tell them, that 
 our Salt fpoils every thing, that is pre- 
 tended to be preferved by it, be it Filh or 
 Flefh. For whether bojled from the in- 
 land Salt Pits, or the Sea Water, it is 
 little lefs than Quicklime, and burns and 
 reefes all it touches fo that 'tis pity to 
 fee fo much good Filh, as is caught upon 
 the Northern Line of Coaft, particularly 
 the Cod and Ling and Herring, now of 
 little value, which were formerly the 
 moft efteemed Commodities of England. 
 Tis certain there is no making good Sajt 
 by fierce and vehement boiling, as is ufed ^ 
 but it muft be kerned either by the heat 
 of the Sun, as in France 3 or by a full 
 and over-weighty Briae, as at Milt hr ope 
 in the Wapes of Lancaflrke ; for in no o-* 
 ther place in England I ever faw it right 
 
148 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 made ^ but yet that is not there under- 
 ftood to purpcfe, for they alfo boil the 
 Brine, which poffibly by fome flight Ar- 
 V tifice might be brought to give its Salt 
 without ftrefs of Fire. 
 
 white Kid. In Lent the common People feed much 
 White Kidney Beans.^tid white or pale 
 
 JUS, Lentils, of which there are great Provifi- 
 ons made in all the Markets, and to be 
 had ready boiled. I was well pleafed 
 with this Lentil ^ which is a fort of Pulfe 
 we have none of in England. There ai^ 
 two forts of White Lentils fold here ^ one 
 fmall one, from Burgundy^ by the Cut of 
 Briare • and another bigger, as broad a- 
 gain from Chartres 5 A 3d alfo much 
 larger, is fometimes to be had from Lan- 
 guedoc. Thofe excepted, our Seed Shops 
 far exceed theirs, and confequently our 
 Gardens, in the Pulfe Kind for variety ^ 
 both Pea and Bean. 
 
 uvg Tur- The Roots differ much from ours. There 
 are here no round Turneps^ but all long 
 ones and fmall 5 but excellently well tail- 
 ed, and are of a much greater ufe, being 
 proper for Soupes alfo ^ for which pur- 
 pofe ours are too ftrong^ we have, in- 
 deed, of late got them into England^ but 
 our Gardners underftand not the Manag- 
 ing 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 ing of them. They fow them here late 
 after Midfummer 5 and at Miirtmmas or 
 fooner, before the Froft begin, they dig 
 them up, cut off the tops, and put them 
 into Sand in their Cellars, where they 
 will keep good till after Eajler, nay, till 
 Whitfmtide 5 Whereas if the Froft take 
 them, they are quite fpoilt, and that 
 piece of ill Husbandry makes them to be 
 defpifed here 5 having loft their tafte, 
 ^id they foon grow fticky in the Ground. 
 The Sandy Plains of Vaugerard near Pa- 
 rk^ are famous for this fort of moft Ex- 
 cellent Root. After the fame manner 
 they keep their Garrets, 
 
 After we had been 2 or 3 days Jour- 
 ney in France, we found no other Tur- 
 neps but the Navet 5 and ftiirthe nearer 
 Parts the better. Thefe, as I f:iid, are 
 fmall long Turneps, not bigger than a 
 Knife Haft, and moft excellent in Soupes, 
 and with Boiled and Stewed Mutton. I 
 think it very ftrange,that the Seedlhould 
 fo much improve in Ej;gLwd, as to pro- 
 duce Roots of the fame Kind 6 or lo 
 times as big as there ^ for I niike no que- 
 ftion, but the long Turneps, of late only 
 in our Markets, are the fame. 
 
 The Potato are fcarce to be found in p 
 their Markets, which are fo great a Re- 
 
 L 5 lief 
 
i$o A Journey to Park 
 
 lief to the People of England^ and very 
 nourifhing and wholefome Roots ^ but 
 jerufaiem there are ftore of Jerufakm Hartkhok^s. 
 
 Jrti chokes. ^ 
 
 tabags. They delight not fo much in Cabage, 
 as I expefted, at leaft at the Seafon while 
 we were there, from December to Mid-- 
 fummer. I never faw in all the Markets 
 once Sprouts.^ that is, the tender Roots of 
 Cabages ^ nor in their publick Gardens, 
 any Referves of old Stalks. The Red Ca- 
 bage is efteemed here, and the Savoy. 
 
 But to make amends for this, they a- 
 bound in vaft quantities of large Red 0- 
 viom and Garlick. And the long and 
 fweet White Onion of Languedoc are to 
 be had alfo here. Alfo Leeks, Rockam- 
 boy^ and Shallots are here in great ufe. 
 
 It has been obferved, that the Nor- 
 thern People of Europe much delight in 
 Cabage, as the Ritjfes^ Poles^ Germans^ 
 Tis certain the Cabage thrives beft in 
 cold Countreys, and is naturally a Nor- 
 thern Plant, and the Keel is to be found 
 wild upon the Maritine Rocks, as I have 
 feen it at Whlthy, and the Cold ripens it, 
 and makes it more tender and palata- 
 ble. , 
 
 The Southern People are pleafed with 
 the Onion Kind, for the fame reafon, for 
 jrhat the great Heats meliorate them, but 
 
A Journey to Paris. 151 
 
 give a ranknefs to the Cabage. TheLee^r 
 are here much fmaller than with us 5 
 but to recompence this, they are blancht 
 here with more care and art, and are 5 
 times as long in the white part, which is 
 by finking them early fo deep in mellow 
 Earth. There is no Plant of the Onion 
 Kind fo hardy as this, and fo proper for 
 the cold Mountains 5 witnefs the ufe the 
 Weljh have made of them from all Ages ; 
 and indeed it is excellent againft Spitting 
 of Blood, and all Difeafes of the Throat 
 and Lungs. 
 
 Though the Lettice be the great and uuu^. 
 univerfal Sallet, yet I did not find they 
 came near our People, for the largenefs 
 and hardnefs of them ^ indeed, about a 
 week before we left P^m, the long Ro- 
 man Lettice filled their Markets, which . 
 was incomparable, and I think beyond 
 our Silefim. 
 
 April and May the Markets were ferved i^^hite 
 With vaft quantities of White Beets, an 
 Herb rarely ufed with us, and never that 
 i know of, in that manner for Soupes. 
 The Leaves grow long and large, and are 
 tied up, as we do our Silefian or Roman 
 Lettice^ to blanch, and then cut by the 
 Root : The Stalks are very broad and 
 
 L 4 ten- 
 
152 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 tender, and they only are ufed, flript of 
 the green Leaves 5 They Cook thofe Stalks 
 in different manners. 
 
 jfp^fraguf. The Afparagus here are in great plenty, 
 but for the firft month they were very 
 bitter and unpleafant ^ from whence that 
 proceeded I cannot guefs 5 afterwards I 
 . did not much perceive it / 
 
 sorrcL They are fo great Lovers of Sorrel^ 
 that I have feen whole Acres of it plant- 
 ed in the Fields ^ and they are to be com- 
 mended for it ^ for nothing is more whole- 
 fome, and it is good to fupply the place 
 of Lemons, againft the Scurvy, or any 
 ill habit of the Body. 
 
 But after all, the French delight in no- 
 Mrfhmr s,^^'^^^ fo much as Miijhwomes ^ of which 
 they have daily, and all the Winter 
 long, ftore of frefh and new gathered in 
 the Markets. This furprifed me 5 nor 
 could I guefs where they had them, till 
 I found they raifed them on hot Beds in 
 their Gardens. 
 
 Of Forct Mtijhroomes they have many 
 Crops in a year 5 but for the Months of 
 Auguji, September^ O&ober^ when they na- 
 turally grow in the Fields, they prepare 
 no Artificial Beds* 
 
A Journey to Paris. 153 
 
 They make in the Fields and Gardens 
 out of the Bar of Vaugerard (which I 
 faw ) long narrow Trenches, and fill 
 thofe Trenches with Horfe Dung 2 or 3 
 foot thick, on which they throw up ^ 
 the common Earth of the place, and ? 
 cover the Dung with it, like the ridge of 
 a Houfe, high pitched ^ and over all 
 they put long Straw or long Horfe Litter 5 
 Out of this Earth fprings the Champignons^ champig^^ 
 after Rain, and if Rain comes not, they 
 Water the Beds every day, even in 
 Winter. 
 
 They are 6 days after their fpringing, 
 or firft appearance, before they pull them 
 up for the Market. 
 
 On fome Beds they have plenty, on 
 others but few, which demonftrate they 
 come of Seed in the Ground 5 for all the 
 Beds are alike. 
 
 A Gardner told me, he had the other 
 year near an Acre of Ground ordered in 
 this manner, but he loft a 100 Crowns 
 by it 3 but moftly they turn to as good 
 profit, as any thing they can plant. 
 
 They deftroy their old Beds in Sum- 
 mer, and dung their Grounds with 
 them. 
 
 They 
 
154 ^ Journey /o Paris. 
 
 They prepare their new Beds the lat- 
 ter end of Augufl^ and have plentiful 
 Crops of Mufhrooms towards Chrijimas^ 
 and all the Spring, till after March. 
 
 I faw in the Markets the beginning of 
 i^iorigUo's. Aprils frefh gathered Moriglios^ the firft 
 of that Kind of Mufhroom, that I re- 
 member ever to have feen ; though for- 
 merly I had been very curious and in- 
 quifitive about this Kind of Plant, and 
 had diftinguiftit and defer ibed 90 Species 
 of them growing in England^ yet I do 
 not remember ever to have found this 
 ' Species with us ^ it is blackifti, and be- 
 comes much blacker, when boiled, whence 
 probably it had its Name 5 but there are 
 fome few of them that are yellow. They 
 are always of a round Pyramidal Figure, 
 upon a fhort thick Fcot-ftalk ; The Foot- 
 ftalk is fmooth, but the outfide of the 
 Mufhroom is all deeply pleated and 
 wrinkled like the infide of a Beafts Maw. 
 The Moriglio fplit in two from top to 
 bottom is all hollow and fmooth, Foot, 
 ftalk, and all. In this hoUownefs is fome- 
 times contained dangerous Infefts. The 
 tafte raw is not ungrateful, and very 
 tender. This Mufhroom feems to me to 
 be produced of the Tree Kinda 
 
 This 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 This fort of Muftiroom is much e- 
 fteemed in France^ and is moftly gather- 
 ed in Woods at the foot of the Oaks 3 
 There were fome of them as big as 
 Turky Eggs. They are found in great 
 quantities in the Woods in Champagne, 
 about Rems, and Nojire Dame de Lie£e. 
 
 They ftring them , and dry them 5 
 and they feeni to me to have a far better 
 relifti than the Champignons. 
 
 The French fay there are no bad Mo- 
 riglio's 5 but there are bad Mufhrooms. 
 At firft I was very ftiie of eating them 3 
 but by degrees, and that there was fcarce 
 any Ragouts without them, I became 
 pleafed with them, and found them very 
 innocent. I am perfuaded the harm 
 that comes from eating them, is from 
 the noxious Infefts and Vermin that feed 
 upon them, and creep into them ^ I have 
 often found them full of fuch Animals. 
 Poffibly the Garden or fore t Muftirooms, 
 being that is done in Winter, and in 
 the Spring, may be much freer of this 
 mifchief, at what time Infeds are dead, 
 or not much ftirririg, than the wild 
 Muflirooms of Angujl, 
 
 This City is well ferved with. Carp ^ of 
 which there is an incredible quantity fpent 
 in the Lent 5 They are not large, and 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 I think are the better for it, but they are 
 very dean of Mud, and well tafted- 
 
 They have a particular way of bring- 
 ing frefti Oyfters to Town, which I never 
 faw with us 5 To put them up in Straw 
 Baskets of a Pecke fuppofe, cut from the 
 Shell, and without the Liquor ^ They 
 are thus very good for Stewing, and all 
 other manner of Dreffing. 
 
 There is fuch plenty of Macreufe^ a 
 fort of Sea Ducks, in the Markets all 
 Lent^ that I admire where they got fo 
 many ^ but thefe are reckoned and e- 
 fteemed as Fifh, and therefore they take 
 them with great Induftry 5 They have a 
 rank fifhy tafte, yet for want of other 
 Flefti were very welcome. I remember we 
 had at our Treat at the King's Charge at 
 Verfailles a Macreufe Pje near two foot 
 diameter, for it was in Lent ^ which be- 
 ing high Seafoned, did go down very 
 well with rare Burgundy. There is a 
 better Argument in Leemnhoek^ for Birds 
 participating fomething of the nature of 
 Fifti, though their Blood is hot, than 
 any the Council of Trent could think of, 
 and that is, that the Globuli of the Blood 
 of Birds are Oval, as thofe of Fifties are 3 
 but this will take in all the Bird Kind 5 
 which alfo in time thofe Gentlemen may 
 think fit to grant. 
 
A Journey to Pariil. 157 
 
 As for their Flefti, Mutton and Beef, f/^A 
 if they are good in their Kind, they 
 come little fhort of ours, I cannot fay 
 they exceed them. But their Veal is not 
 to be compared with ours, being red and 
 courfe 5 and I believe no Countrey in 
 Europe underftands the Management of 
 that fort of Food like the Englijh. This 
 was once proper to Ejfex 5 but now it is 
 well known, that nothing contributes 
 more to the whitenefs and tendernefs of 
 the Flefti of Calves, than often Bleeding 
 them, and giving them much Food of 
 Milk and Meal, befides fucking the Dam. 
 By much Bleeding the red Cake of the 
 Blood is exhaufted, and becomes all 
 White Serum or Chyle. The fame efFed 
 Cramming hath upon Poultry, fo as the 
 Blood is well near all Chyle 3 and the 
 Livers of Geefe fo fed by force, will be- 
 come, for the fame reafon, vaftly great, 
 and white and delicious. 
 
 I cannot but take notice here of a 
 great Prejudice the French lie under, in 
 relation to our Flefli 5 Tis generally faid 
 amongft them, that our Meat in England 
 will not make fo ftrong Broth, as the 
 French^ by a third part. If they fay, not 
 fo fait and favoury, and ftrong tafted, I 
 agree with them , and yet the ir^w^ Meat 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 is never the better- For firft their Meat 
 is moftly leaner and more dry, and 
 (which is all in all in this matter of Soupes) 
 is long kept before it be fpent, which 
 gives it a higher and falter tafte 5 for as 
 Meat rots, it becomes more urinous and 
 fait. Now our People by cuftom, covet 
 the freiheft Meat, and cannot indure the 
 ieaft tendency to putrefaction ^ and we 
 have good reafon to do fo, becaufe our 
 Air is twice ^s moift as theirs, which 
 does often caufe in the keeping of Meat 
 a Muftinefs, which is intolerable to all 
 Mankind 5 whereas the Air of France be- 
 ing fo much drier, keeping of Meat, not 
 only makes it tender, but improves the 
 tafte. So that could we fecure our Meat, 
 in keeping it from that unfavoury qua- 
 lity, it would far outdo the French Meat, 
 becaufe much more juicy. 
 
 I don t remember I eat of above two 
 forts of Flefli, but what we have as good 
 or better in England^ and that was of the 
 Wild Pigs 5 and the Redleg d Partridge* 
 Of thefe laft I eat at St. Clon^ taken there- 
 abouts y as to bignefs, they are much de- 
 generated from thofe in Langnedoc, and 
 lefs ^ but far excel the gray Partridge in 
 tafte. 
 
 As 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 I5P 
 
 As for their Fruits our Journey was in bruits. 
 the worft time of the year, from De- 
 cember to Midfummer^ fo that we had little 
 fave Winter Fruits 5 fome few Bon Chri- 
 tiens we tafted, not much better than 
 ours, but fomething freer of Stones 5 
 The Virgulem Pears were admirable, but 
 to our forrow, they did not laft long af- 
 ter our arrival. 
 
 The Kentijh Pippin^ as we call it, was 
 here excellent ^ but two other forts of 
 Apples ftock the Markets. The Winter 
 Calvil or ^ieening^ which though a ten- 
 der and foft 7\pple, yet continued good 
 till after Eajler. Alfo the Vome d'Apis^ 
 which is ferved here for fhew, more than 
 ufe 5 being a fmall flat Apple, very beau- 
 tiful, very red on one fide, and pale ojc 
 white on the other, and may ferve the 
 Ladies at their Toilets for a Pattern to 
 Paint by. However this tender Apple 
 was not contemptible after WMtfuntide^ 
 and which is its property, it never fmells 
 ill, though the Ladies keep it (asfome- 
 times they do) about them.^ 
 
 I never met with any thing peculiar 
 in their Sweet Meats, but a Marmalade of 
 Orange Flowers 5 which indeed was admi- 
 rable ^ Twas made with thofe Flowers, 
 the Juice of Lemons, and fine Sugar. • 
 
 ^ m 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 The Wines follow, and Water to 
 Dfink: 
 
 Wines. The Wiaes about Paris are very fmall, 
 yet good in their Kind ^ thofe de Siirene 
 are excellent fome years ^ but in all the 
 Taverns they have a way to make them 
 into the faftiion of Champagne arid Bur- 
 gmdy. 
 
 The Tax upon Wines is now fo great, 
 that whereas before the War they drank 
 them by Retail at 5 d. the Quart, they 
 now fell them at i$d. the Quart and 
 dearer, which has inhanfed the Rates of 
 all Commodities, and Workmens Wages ^ 
 and alfo has caufed many thoufand pri- 
 vate Families to lay in Wines in their 
 Cellars at the cheapeft hand, which ufed 
 to have none before. 
 
 The Wines of Burgundy and Champagne 
 are moft valued 5 and indeed, not with- 
 out reafon ^ for they are light and eafie 
 upon the Stomach, and give little diftur- 
 bance to the Brain, if drawn from the 
 Hogftiead, or loofe botled after their 
 fafhion. 
 
 The moft efteemed are Vln de Bonne of 
 Burgundy^ a red Wine ^ which is Dolce Pi- 
 quante in fome meafure, to me it feemed 
 the very beft of Wine I met with. Volne, 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Poh/e, a pale Champagne, but exceed- 
 ing brisk upon the Palate. This is faid 
 to grow upon the very borders of J5;/r- 
 fundy^ and to participate of the Excel- 
 lency of both Counties. 
 
 There is another fort of Wine, called 
 Vin de Rhew/s, this is alfo a pale or gray 
 Wine ^ it is harfh^ as all C^^^^j7^^;/c Wines 
 are. 
 
 The White Wines of value are thofe 
 of Mafcon in Burgundy. 
 
 Mulfo in Champagne^ a fmall and not 
 unpleafant White Wine. 
 
 Chabri is a quickandftiarp White Wine 
 Well efteenied. 
 
 In March I tafred the White Wines 
 called Condrieti^ and d'Arbois^ but found 
 them both in the Muft, thick and white 
 as our Wines ufe to be, when they firft 
 come from the Canaries 5 very fweet, and 
 yet not without a grateful flavour ^ they 
 clear towards Summer, and abate mucn 
 of the flavour and fweet tafte. Thofe 
 Wines thus in the Muft are called in the 
 Prints Vin des Liqueurs. 
 
 There is a preparation or rather ftif- 
 ling of the White Wine in the Muft^ufed 
 in Burgundy and elfewhere, which they 
 call Vin Bouru 5 it gives a fweet tafte, and 
 it is foul to the Eye ^ thofe alfo are called 
 Vin des Liqueurs. This is only drunk a Glafs 
 
 M in 
 
i62 A Journey to Paris- 
 
 in a morning, as an equivalent to 
 Brandy. 
 
 Vin de Turene en Anjou of two years old, 
 was one of the beft White Wines I 
 drunk in Vans. 
 
 Ganmttn from DMphme : This is a very 
 pale and thin White Wine, very like the 
 Ferde of Florence^ fweet, and of a very 
 pleafant flavour, efpecially while it is 
 Des Liqueurs. 
 
 The Red Wines of Burgundy^ Des qua-* 
 ires feuilles^ as they fay, or of 4 years old, 
 are rare, but they are efteemed much 
 more wholefom, and are permitted to the 
 Sick, in fome cafes, to drink of 5 they are 
 fine, and have a rough, but found tafte 5 
 not prickt, as I expefted. This Term Des 
 quatre feulUes^ is ufed alfo to Volne^ or any 
 other fort of Wine which is kept any 
 time. 
 
 There are alfo in efteemftronger Wines 
 at Pans J as Camp de Perdris. 
 
 Cofie BruJIee^ both Red Wines from 
 Dauphlne^ of very good tafte, and hot 
 upon the Stomach. 
 
 De V Hermitage upon the Rop/e. 
 
 But the moft excellent Wines for 
 ftrength and flavour are the Red and 
 White St. Laurence^ a. Town betwixt Tou- 
 lon and Nice in Province. This is a moft 
 delicious Mufcat. THefe are of thofe forts 
 
 of 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 of Wines, which the Romans called Vtmm 
 p^jfnm^ that were made of half Sun dried 
 Grapes : for the Grapes ( efpecially the 
 White Mufcadine Grapes) behig ufually 
 fooner ripe, than the common Grapes of 
 the Country, called EJpera^^ viz. the lat- 
 ter end of Anguji, (as I have feen them 
 in the Vintage at Fic^ Mirabel, and Fro;:- 
 ttniac^ 3 Towns near the Sea in Langm- 
 doc^ where this fort of Wine is made) 
 they twift the Bunches of Grapes, fo 
 breaking the Stalks of them, that they 
 receive no longer any nourifhment from 
 the Vine, but hang down and dry in the 
 then violently hot Sun, and are in few 
 days almoft turned into Raifins of the 
 Sun 3 hence, frorri this infolation, the 
 flavour of the Grape is exceedingly height- 
 ned, and the ftrength and oilinefs, and 
 thick Body of the Wine is mightily im- 
 proved. I think the Red St. Lauren was 
 the moft delicious Wine I ever tafted iri 
 my life. 
 
 Befides thefe, here are alfo the White 
 Wines of Orleans, Bonrdeaux Claret, and 
 thofe Excellent Wines frorii Cahdrs: alfo 
 Cahreton, White and Red, from about 
 Bayone^ ftrong and delicious Wines : and 
 all forts of Spanijl) Wines, as Sack, Palme, 
 Mountaine Malaga, Red and White, She- 
 lies, and indeed the Frei^h are, of late^ 
 
 M 2 Ye-jty 
 
I ^4 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 very defirous to drink of the ftrongeft 
 VVin^s. 
 
 Befides Wines, there is no Feafting 
 without the Drinking at the defert all 
 forts of Strong Waters, particularly jR^?^- 
 fids ^ which is a fort of Cherry Brandy 
 made with Peach and Apricock Stones, 
 highly piquant, and of a moft agreeable 
 flavour. 
 
 The pungent and acrimonious equality 
 of thefe and fuch like Kernels was not 
 unknown to the Ancients, and very poi- 
 fonous to fome xAninials. Diojcoridestdls 
 us, a Paft made of the Kernels of Bitter 
 Almonds will thro W Hens into Convul- 
 fions, and immediately kill them. Birds 
 have but little Brain, and fo are the 
 ftronglier affcded with this Volatil Ve- 
 nom. Not unlike effefts 'tis poflible Ra- 
 tafia may have in fome tender and more 
 delicate Conftitutions , and weak and 
 feeble Brains, and may be one caufe of 
 fo many fudden Deaths, as have been ob- 
 ferved of late. 
 
 Vat tee is a fort of Perfumed Strong- 
 water from Provence^ made (as it is pre- 
 tended) of Mufcat Wine diftilled with 
 Citron Pills and Orange Flowers. 
 
 Fenojdliet de I'ljle de jRee,is valued mucli, 
 lis miich like our Anifeed Water. 
 
 Thefe 
 
A Journey to Paris. 1^5 
 
 Thefe and many more forts of Strong- 
 waters, and ftrong Wines, both of Frariie 
 and Italy and Spah/^ are wont to be 
 brought in, at the latter end of the JDe- 
 firt in all great Feafts, ^nd they drink 
 freely of them :^ Which Cuftom is new : 
 when I was formerly in Frarice^ I remem- 
 ber nothing of it. But it is the long 
 War that has introduced them, the No- 
 bility and Gentry fuffering much in ^ 
 thofe tedious Campagnes, applied them- 
 felves to thefe Liquors to fupport the Dif- 
 ficulties and Fatigues of Weather and 
 Watchings 5 and at their return to Pdrk^ 
 introduced them to their Tables. Sure I 
 am, the Farijtans^ both Men and Wo- 
 men, are ftrangely altered in tlieir Con- 
 ftitutions and Habit of Body ^ from lean 
 and (lender, they are become fat and 
 corpulent , the Women efpecialiy : 
 Which, in my Opinion, can proceed 
 from nothing fo much as the daily 
 drinking ftrong Liquors. 
 
 Add to thefe Drinks the daily ufc of c?,f;-, r.'^, 
 Coffee with Sugar ^ Tea and Chocolate, 
 which now is as much in ufe in Private 
 Houfes in Park^ as with us in Lo^idon: 
 And thefe Sugar d Liquors alfo add con- 
 fiderably to their Corpulency^ 
 
 M 3 
 
i€€ A Journey to Paris. 
 
 I mufk not forget, that amongft the 
 Drinks that are in ufe in Paris^ Cyder 
 from Normandy is one. The beft I drank 
 of that Kind, was of the colour of Cla- 
 ret, reddifli or brown 5 The Apple, that 
 it was made of, was called Fre^uins^ which 
 is round and yellow, but fo bitter, that 
 it is not to be eaten ^ and yet the Cydei" 
 that is made of it, is as fweet as any 
 new Wine. It keeps many years good, 
 and mends of its colour and tafte. I 
 drank it often a Private Houfe of a 
 Norman Gentleman, of whofe Growth it 
 was otherwife, if I had not been af- 
 fured to the contrary, I could not have 
 believed, but that it had been mixt with 
 Sugar. 
 
 There are alfo very many publick 
 Coffee-hoHfes^ where Tea alfo and Choco- 
 late may be had, and all the Strongwa- 
 ters and Wine above-mentioned 3 and 
 innumerable Akhoufes. I wonder at the 
 great change of this Sober Nation, in this 
 particular 5 but Luxury like a Whirlpool 
 draws into it the Extravagances of other 
 People. 
 
 TwasNeceffity, and the want of Wine, 
 (either naturally, as in a great part of 
 ^erfia and the Indies 5 or from their Re- 
 
A Journey to Paris,' 
 
 ligion, as in Turkej/,) that put Men upon 
 the invention of thofe Liquors of Coffee 
 and Tea : Chocalate, indeed, was found 
 out by the poor ftarved Indians^ as Ale 
 was with us. But what elfe but a Wan- 
 ton Luxury could difpofe thefe People, 
 who abound in Excellent Wines, the 
 moft cordial and generous of all Drinks, 
 to ape the neceffity of others. 
 
 Mighty things , indeed, are faid of 
 thefe Drinks, according to the Humour 
 and Fancy of the Drinkers. I rather be- 
 lieve they are permitted by Gods Provi- 
 dence for the leflening the number of 
 Mankind by fhortning Life, as a fort of 
 filent Plague. Thofe that plead for Cho- 
 colate, fay, it gives them a good Sto- 
 mach, if taken two hours before Dinner. 
 Right ! who doubts it ? You fay you are 
 much more hungry having drunk Cho- 
 colate, than you had been if you had 
 drunk none ^ that is, your Stomach is 
 faint , craving and feels hollow and 
 empty, and you cannot ftay long for 
 your Dinner. Things that pafs thus foon 
 out of the Stomach, I fufped are little 
 welcome there, and Nature makes hafte 
 to get fhut of them. There are many 
 things of this fort which impofe upom 
 us by procuring a falfe hunger. 
 
 M 4 *Tli€ 
 
1^8 A Journey to Paris, 
 
 The Wild Indians, and fome of ouf 
 People, no donbt digeft it ^ but our 
 Pampered Bodies can make little of it 5 
 and it proves to moft tender Conftitu- 
 tions perfect Phyfic, at leaft to the Sto- 
 mach, by cleanfing that into the Gutts ^ 
 but that wears it out, and decays Na- 
 ture. 
 
 It is very remarkable with what gree- 
 dinefs the Spaniards drink it, and how 
 t Gage, often \^ a day, 5 times fays f Gage^ at 
 leaft. The Women drank it in the 
 Churches, and the diforder could fcarce 
 be remedied. 
 
 The old Romans did better with their 
 Luxury 5 they took their Tea and Choco- 
 late after a full Meal, and every Man 
 . was his own Cook in th^it cafe. C£far 
 refolved to be free, and eat and drink 
 heartily, that is, to excefs, with T//^^ 
 and for this purpofe Cicero tells his Friend 
 Atticus ^ that before he lay down to 
 Table, Eweticen agebat^ which I conftrue, 
 he prepared for himfelf his Chocolate and 
 Tea ^ fomething to make a quick riddanca 
 of what they eat and drank, fome way 
 or other. 
 
 There are two forts of W tier which they 
 drink at P^r;^'^ Water of the River Seine ^ 
 which runs through the Town ^ and the 
 Water brought in by the AcimduB of 
 
 Arcueil 
 
A Journey to Paris. i 
 
 Arcnetl, which, by the by, is one of the 
 moft Magnificent Buildings inland about 
 P^m, and worth going to fee : This noble 
 Canal of hewn Stone conveys the Water 
 1 5 miles to Paris. 
 
 The River Water is very pernicious to 
 all Strangers, not the French excepted, 
 that come from any diftance, but not to 
 the Natives of Paris, caufing Loofenefs, 
 and fometimes Dyfenteries. I am apt to 
 think, the many Ponds and Lak^s that 
 are let into it to fupply the Sluces upon 
 the Canal De Briare, are in part the 
 caufe of it. Bpt thofe who are careful 
 of themfelves purifie it by filling their 
 Cifterns with Sand, and letting it fink 
 through it 5 which way clears it, and 
 makes it very cool and palatable. 
 
 As for the Spring Water from the 
 Maifon des Emx\ it is wholefom in this 
 refpeft, and keeps the Body firm ; but it 
 is very apt to give the Stone, which the 
 People of this Town are infinitely fub- 
 jed to. An Inftance of this I had by 
 chance, when coming from feeing the 
 Aqnedu^ of Arcueil, in the very Road 
 near the Wall of the Aquedu^^ a great 
 number of Earthen Pipes, which had 
 ferved to convey that Water to fome 
 Houfe, were caft to mend the High-ways. 
 I pbff rved, that of 4 inches diameter the 
 
 hollow 
 
I JO jyourney to Vavis. 
 
 hotlQw of the Pipes were all ftopt up to 
 the breadth of a Shilling, with a firm 
 Stone petrified 5 fo that they were forc'd 
 to breaJc up the Pipes being altogether 
 ufelefs. Now what Petrifies in theWater- 
 Pipes is apt in fome weak Conftitutions 
 to Petrifie alfo in tliQ Kidmj/s 3x16. Blad- 
 der. 
 
 In the next place we will fee how 
 the Parijians divert themfelves 5 which 
 confifts chiefly in Plays, Gameing, Walk- 
 ing, or Coaching. 
 
 The Plays here are divided into two 
 Houfe$ ; One for the Operas, and the 
 other for the Comedies. 
 
 o^era'f. J did not fee many Opera's, not being 
 fo good a French-Man as to underftand 
 them, when Sung : The Opera, called 
 VEurope Gallafite, I was at feveral times, 
 and it is lookt upon as one of the very 
 beft. It is extreamly fine , and the Mu- 
 fick and Singing admirable : The Stage 
 large and magnificent, and well filled 
 with Aftors : The Scenes well fuited to 
 the thing, and as quick in the removal 
 of them, as can be thought. The Dancing 
 exquifite, as being performed by the beft 
 Majiers of that Profeflion in Town; The 
 
 Cloathing 
 
A Journey to Paris. 171 
 
 Cloathing rich, proper, and with great 
 variety. 
 
 It is to be wondered, that thefe Operas 
 are fo frequented : There are great num- 
 bers of the Nobility that come daily to 
 them, and fome that can Sing them all : 
 And it was one thing that was trouble- 
 fome to us Strangers, to difturb the Box 
 by thefc voluntary Songs of fome parts 
 of the Opera or other 5 That the Speda- 
 tors may be faid to be here as much 
 Adors as thofe imployed upon the ve- 
 ry Stage. 
 
 The Comedies have another Houfe in cmcdiei. 
 another part of the Town ^ for the 
 Opera's are under the Roof of Monfieur, 
 and it is part of the Falais Royal. 
 
 TheDifpofitionof the Theatre is much 
 the fame^ but fomething lefs : And here 
 the Stage it felf is to be Let 5 where for 
 Strangers^ the Places are moft commodious, 
 to hear and fee. 
 
 I heard many Tragedies^ but without 
 guft for want of Language : But after 
 them, the Little P/^/j- were very Divert- 
 ing to me, particularly thofe of MoUere^ 
 Vendange de Snrejne^ Pourcegmc^ Crijpin 
 Medecin^ k Medecin mdgre luy^ le Malade 
 Imaginairej d^c. 
 
 In 
 
2 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 In this all agree, that tho* Molkres 
 Plays have lefs of Intrigue in them 5 yet 
 his CharaUers of Perfons are incompara- 
 ble, fo true and juft, that nothing can 
 be more : And for this Reafon, fo many 
 of them are only of two or three Afts 5 
 for without an Intrigue well laid, th^ 
 Charafters would have failed him, in 
 which was his Excellency, However, 
 this is now fo much become a Cuftom 
 on the French Stage 5 that you ever have 
 one of thefe little Pieces tack'd to the Trage- 
 dy, that you may pleafe your felf accor- 
 ding to your Appetite. 
 
 Tis faid, Moliere Died fuddenly in 
 Afting the Malade Imagimire : Which is 
 a good inftance of his well Perfonating 
 the Play he made, and how he coulci 
 really put himfelf into any Paffion he 
 had in his Head. Alfo of the great dan- 
 ger ftrong and vehement Paffions may 
 caufe in weak Conftitutions, fuch as Joy 
 and Fear 5 which Hiftory tells us, have 
 killed many very fuddenly. He is re- 
 ported to have faid, going off the Stage, 
 Mejjieurs, Jay joue le Malade Imaginaire \ 
 Mais Je Jkfs veritablement fort Malade and 
 he died within two hours after. This 
 Account of Moliere is not in his Life by 
 Perault, but it is true And he yet has 
 blaiped him for his Folly, in perfecuting 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 the Art of Phyfick, not the Men, in di- 
 vers of his Plays. 
 
 Moliere fent for Dr. M , aPhy- 
 
 fitian in Paris of great Efteem and Worth, 
 and now in London^ a Refuge Dr. M—— 
 fent him word, he would come to him, 
 upon two Conditions 5 the one, that he 
 fhouldAnfwerhimonly to fuch Queftions 
 as he ftiould ask him, and not otherwife 
 Difcourfe him 5 the other, thatheftiould 
 oblige himfelf to take the Medecines he 
 Ihould prefcribe for him. But Moliere 
 finding the Doftor too hard for him, and 
 not eafily to be Duft, refufed them. 
 His Bufinefs, it feems, was to make a 
 Comical Scene in expofing one of the 
 Learnedeft Men of the Profeffion, as he 
 had done the Quacks. If this was his 
 Intention, as in all probability it was, 
 Moliere had as much Malice, as Wit 5 
 which is only to be ufed to corred the 
 Vitioufnefs and Folly of Men pretend- 
 ing to Knowledge , and not the Arts 
 themfelves. 
 
 This I muft needs fay. That Obfceni- 
 ty and Immorality are not at all upon 
 the French Stage, no more than in the 
 Civil Converfation of People of Falhion 
 and good Breeding. 
 
 One 
 
174 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Preaching. Oiic Aftemooii in Lcnt^ I was to hear 
 a Sermon at La Charite , preached by an 
 Abbot, a very young man. His Text was 
 about the Angels Defcent into the Pool 
 of Bethefda, and Troubling the Waters. 
 I am not fo good a French-Man as to 
 underftand all he faid, but he had many 
 good Arguments about the neceffity of 
 Grace, and the means to attain it. I 
 was ftrangely furprifed at the Vehemen- 
 cy of his Aftion, which to me appeared 
 altogether Comical, and like the A6tors 
 upon the Stage, which I had feen a few 
 days before : Befides , his Expreflions 
 feemed to be in too Familiar a Style : 
 I always took a Sermon to the People to 
 require a grave and ornate kind of Elo- 
 quence, and not Verba ^otidiana, with 
 a certain dignity of Aftion • but 'tis 
 pofEble this way here beft fuits with the 
 Cuftoms and Manners of the People 3 
 who are all Motion, even when they fay 
 the eafieft and moft intelligible Things, 
 
 Gsming. Gaming is a perpetual Diverfion here,if 
 not one of the Debauches of the Town t 
 But Games of meer Hazard are ftridly 
 forbid upon fevere Fines to the Mafter of 
 the Houfe, as well private as Publick , 
 where fuch Playing ftiall be difcovered. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 175 
 
 This was done upon the Account of the 
 Officers of the Army 5 who, during the 
 Winter ufed to lofe the Money , which 
 was given them to make their Recruits, 
 and renew their Equipages in the Spring. 
 And indeed, fuch quick Games, as Bajfety 
 Hazard^ &c. where Fortune in a manner 
 is all in all, are great Temptations to 
 Ruine, by the fudden PalEons they are 
 apt to raife in the Players : Whereas 
 Games, where Skill and Cunning, and 
 much Thought are imployed, as well as 
 Luck, give a Man time to Cool, and re- 
 cover his Wits , if at any time great 
 Lofs ftiall have Difmounted his Reafon • 
 for he muft quickly come to himfelf 
 again, or forfeit his Skill and Reputation 
 in Conducing the Game, as well as 
 Husbanding his Money. 
 
 We were in Varls at the time of the Fair of Se, 
 Ibair of St. Germain 5 It lafts fix weeks at G^rmaim. 
 leaft : The Place where it is kept well 
 befpeakes its Antiquity 5 for it is a very 
 Pit or Hole, in the middle of the Fau-^ 
 bourg^ and belongs to the Great Abbey 
 of that Name. You Defcend into it 
 on all fides, and in fome places above 
 1 2 Steps 5 fo that the City is raifed above 
 it 6 or 8 Foot. 
 
 The 
 
A Joumy to Paris. 
 
 The Buildi ng is a very Barn, or Frame 
 cfWood, Tiled over 5 confiftingof mi- 
 ny long Allies croffing one another, the 
 Floor of the Allies unpaved, and of Earth, 
 and as uneven as may be ^ which makes 
 it very uneafie to Walk in, were it not 
 the vaft croud of People which keep you 
 up : But all this befpeaks its Antiquity, 
 and the rudenefs of the firft Ages of 
 Pmx, which is i foil to its Politenefs in 
 all things elfe now. 
 
 The Fair confifts of moft Toy-fliops, 
 and Barthohmew-Taix Ware 5 alfo Fiance 
 and Pidures, Joiners Work, Linnen and 
 Woollen Manufaftures ^ many of the 
 great Ribban Shops rem.ove out of the 
 Palais hither : No Books : Many Shops of 
 Confedioners, where the Ladies are com- 
 modioufly Treated. 
 
 The great Rendezvous is at night, af- 
 ter the Play and Opera are done 5 and 
 Raffling for all Things Vendible is the 
 great Diverfion ^ no Shop wanting two 
 or three Raffling iBoards. Monfieur, the 
 Dauphin, and other Princes of the Blood 
 come, at leaft; once in. the Fair-time, to 
 Grace it. 
 
 Here are alfo Coffee-Shops, where that 
 and all forts of ftrong Liquors above- 
 mentioned are to be Sold. 
 
 Knaveries 
 
A Journey to Paris, ijj 
 
 • Knavery here is in Perfeftion as with 
 US ^ as dextrous Cut~Purfes and Pick- 
 Pockets. A Pick-Pocket came into the 
 iFair at night, extreamly well Clad, with 
 four Lacqueys with good Liveries attend- 
 ing him : He was caught in the Fad, and 
 more Swords were drawn in his Defence 
 than againft him ^ but yet he was taken, 
 and delivered into the Hands of Juftice ^ 
 which is here fudden and no Jeft. 
 
 I was furprifed at the Impudence of a 
 Booth, which put out the Pi6cures of 
 fome Indian Beafts with hard Names ; 
 and of four that were painted, I found 
 but two, and thofe very ordinary ones, 
 viz. a Leopard, and a Racoun. I ask d 
 the Fellow why he deceived the People, 
 and whether he did not fear Cudgelling 
 in the end : He anfwered with a lingular 
 Confidence,that it was the Painter s fault % 
 that he had given the Racoun to Paint 
 to two Mafters, but both had miftaken 
 the Beaft 5 but however, (he faid) tho' 
 the Pidures were not well defign'd, they 
 did neverthelefs ferve to Grace the Booth 
 and bring him Cuftom- 
 
 I faw here a Tcm^]^ Elephant betwixt Ei^hinr. 
 8 and 9 foot high, very lean and ill kept. 
 Nothing could be more rX)cil than this 
 poor Creature. I obferved, fhe bent the 
 
 N Joints 
 
178 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Joints of her Legs very nimbly in making 
 her Salutes to the Company : Alfo that 
 the Nails of her Fore-Toes, were large 
 and ahnoft five Inches long. This was 
 from the Continent, having the Ears 
 entire. I had feen one about 15 years 
 ago in London much lefs, from the Ifland 
 ot Ceylon^ of another Species with Seal- 
 hpt Ears, and the Tail with two rows of 
 large, thick, and ftifF black Hairs. 
 
 coadv'vg. Coaching in Vifits is the great and daily 
 Bufinefs of People of Quality : But in 
 the Evenings, the Cours de la Reyne is 
 much frequented, and a great Rendez- 
 vous of People of the beft Fafhion. The 
 Place indeed is very commodious and 
 pleafant, being three Allies fet with high 
 Trees of a great length,all along the Bank 
 of the River Seine^ inclofed at each end 
 with noble Gates ^ and in the middle a 
 very large Circle to turn in- The mid- 
 dle i\lley holds four lines of Coaches at 
 kaft, and each fide Alley two a-piece ; 
 Thefe eight lines of Coaches, may, when 
 full, fuppofing them to contain near 80 
 . Coaches a-peice, amount to about 6 or 700. 
 •On the Field fide, joyning clofe to the 
 Allies of the Coaches, there are feveral 
 Acres of Meadow planted with Trees, 
 well grown, into narrow Allies in ^tin- 
 
 cunx 
 
A Journey t6 Paris. i 
 CHHx Order, to walk in the Grafs, if any 
 have a mind to light ^ and this niuft 
 needs be very agreeable in the Heats of 
 Summer, which we ftaid not to en-^ 
 
 One thing this Cours is (hort of Oiifs 
 in Hide-Park^ for if full, you cannot in 
 ^n hour fee the Company twice you 
 have a iiiind to fee, and you are confined 
 to your line ^ and oftentimes, the Princes 
 of the Blood coming in, and driving at 
 Pleafure, make a ftrange ftop and era- 
 barras. 
 
 Befides, if the weather has been Rainy, 
 there is no driving in it, it is fo miry 
 and ill gravelled. 
 
 Thofe which have A mind to drive 
 further out of Town for the Air, have 
 Woods, one to the Weft, and another 
 to the Eaft, moft convenient^ I mean, 
 the Bois de Bologne^ and the Bois de Fir/- 
 cmncs ^ this laft is very opaque and plea- 
 fant There are fome Ancient Roman. 
 6*tatues in the firft Court of this Houfe. 
 
 But for the Caftle in the Bols de Bo- 
 logm^ called Madrid, it was built by 
 Frmcis the Firjl , and it is altogether 
 Morefque, in imitation of one in Spain ^ 
 with at leaft two rows of covered Galle-' 
 ries running quite round, on the out-fide 
 the four faces of the Houfe 5 which fure 
 
 N 2 
 
A Journey to Paris- 
 
 in a veiy hot Country, are greatly re* 
 freftiing and delightful : And this is faid 
 to be built on purpofe for a defence a- 
 gainft a much hotter Climate, than where 
 it ftands ; which that King had no mind 
 to vifit a fecond time. 
 
 But let us return to Paris Towards 8 
 or 9 a Clock in Jme moft of them re- 
 turn from the Cours^ and land at the 
 Garden Gate of the Tm/kries ^ where 
 they Walk^ in the cool of the Evening, 
 This Garden is of the beft Ordonnance, 
 and now in its full beauty, fo that Monf. 
 Le Noftre has feen it in its infancy, for it 
 is all of his Invention, and he enjoys his 
 Labours in perfection. Certainly the 
 Movhig hirniture of it at this time of the 
 Evening, is one of the Nobleft Sights 
 that can be feen. The Night I came a- 
 way from Faris^ a Lady of Quality, Ma- 
 dam M- — when I took my Leave of her, 
 askt me, What I had feen in Paris that 
 moft pleafed me 5 I anfwered her Civil- 
 ly, as I ought to do ^ but fhe would not 
 take my Compliment, but urged me for 
 a farther Anfwer : I told her, (fince (he 
 would have it it fo) that I juft then came 
 from feeing v^hat pleafed me beft 3 that 
 was, the Middle Wall^ of the TuiUeries in 
 Jnm, betwixt 8 and 9 at nighty I did 
 
 not 
 
A Journey to Paris. 1 8 1 
 
 not think that there was in the World a 
 more agreeable place than that Alley at 
 that hour, and that time of the year. 
 
 And now we are got into the Gardens 
 of Varis^ I ftiall give you a ihort tafte of 
 all of them of Note, at leaft of fuch as 
 I faw. 
 
 This of the Xaillerks is vaftly great, TniHeria. 
 has fhaded Tarrafles on two fides, one a- 
 long the River Seine^ planted witli Trees, 
 very diverting, with large Parterrs in 
 the middle, and large Fountains of Wa- 
 ter, which conftantly flay 5 one end is 
 the Front of that Magnificent Palace the 
 Louvre 5 the other is low, and for pro- 
 fpeds, open to the Fields 5 The reft is 
 difpofed into Alleys, and Grafs-Plots, and 
 Copfies of Wood v/ith a great fjiimher of 
 Seats upon Down in all parts, for the xAc- 
 commodation of the Weary. 
 
 In the Tmlleries there is one thins; 
 which I much liked, and that was an 
 Amphitheater, with the Stage, Pits and 
 Seats, and the Scenes leading into the 
 Stage very pretty ^ from all fides clofe 
 Alleys leading into it. 
 
 Nothing can be more pleafant than this 
 Garden, where in the Groves of Wood 
 the latter end of March, Blacky Birds, and ' 
 
 3 TroJ/jcs^ 
 
A Journey to Tarls, 
 
 Trofiks, and Nightif/gales, fing moft fweet^ 
 \y all the morning, and that as it were 
 within the City, for no Birding is fufe 
 fared here near this City, and the Fields 
 round the Town, are all,every where, full 
 of Partridges, ^nd Hares, and othec 
 Game? 
 
 The Garden of the PJais of Luxefthurgh 
 is alfo vaftly great, and has fomethingof 
 champatre in it, like St. James s-V^ark^i, 
 it is alfo filled v,^ith People daily of good 
 Quality ^ but becaufe the hard Winters 
 have deftroyed many of the Walks, by 
 killing the Pole Hedges, it is not fo fre- 
 quented, as formerly ^ yet it hath its 
 Fountains and Parterres, and fome well 
 fliaded Allies ^ ^nd for Air, I prefer it 
 before the Tnlllkres, becaufe it is feated 
 upon a high Ground next the Fields, in 
 the ^aiihourgh of St, G^rmaim, 
 
 As to the Kif/g's Phjjic^ Garden, it is a 
 very great Pic-ce of Ground, well fur^ 
 niiht with Plants, and open alfo to walk 
 in, to all People pf Note. There is 
 ^reat variety of Ground in it, as Woods, 
 Ponds, Meadows, Mounts, bfefides a vaft 
 level, by Which it is fitted for the Re- 
 ception gnd Grov/th pf nioft forts pf 
 Plants. 
 
 1 
 
A Journey to Paris, i 
 
 I firft faw it in March with Dr. Turn- 
 fort^ and Mr. Breman^ a very Under- 
 ftanding and Painful Gardner. The Green 
 Houfes well ftored with tender Exoticks^ 
 and the Parterrs with Simplest^ though 
 but few of them then to be feen ^ yet by 
 the Trees and Shrubs, and fome Plants 
 which did not lofe their Heads, I could 
 well judge of the Furniture. 
 
 Dr. Turnfort told me, that he fhewed a 
 ICO Plants every Lellbn, and he had in 
 the Summer 30 Leffbns, which made 
 30C0 Plants 5 befides the very early and 
 late Plants, which he reckoned could not 
 be lefs than a 1000 more. 
 
 I took particular notice of thefe Plants 
 in the Green Houfes at that time. 
 
 Jafmlmtm Aforkum flore albo vlridaril 
 Regis Lufitanici. 
 
 Marum Cortufil^ which had been Potted 
 30 years. 
 
 CarjophyllufCreticHs arborcfcens. 
 
 Smilax frtiUii ntgro. 
 
 Iris bulbofa flore luteo. 
 
 Symphytum minus Bordginis flore^^ 
 
 jFraxinus Americana florida. 
 
 St£chas folio ferrato Bochini. 
 
 N 4 This 
 
\. A JouYJiey to Paris. 
 
 This Garden is endowed by the King 
 and Duke of Orkttns^ and has 2000 /. a 
 year Sterling Rents belonging to it, where- 
 of 500 /• is given to the chief Phyfician 
 who over-looks all, and the reft to the 
 Botanic Reader, Dr. Tnr^fort, and Under- 
 Gardners, with Lodgings for all. 
 
 Mr. Bremen told me, he had in the 
 beginning of April made an end of Sow- 
 ing his Hot Beds, and had put into the 
 Ground 2000 Species of Seed. 
 
 From the Mount in the Kings Garden, 
 on the other fide the River, upon the 
 declivity of a high ridge of Hills, I had 
 a fair view of the Palace or Country- 
 Houfe of Father la Chatfe^ the Kings Con- 
 feflbr 5 it is very finely feated againft the 
 South Sun, and well Wooded on botii 
 fides : A fit Seat for a Contemplative 
 Perfon. 
 
 The Garden of the Palais Rojial^ con- 
 fidering it is in the middle of the Town, 
 is very large, has 2 or 5 great Bafins 
 With their Jet d^Eau^ but not well kept 3 
 nor hath any thing elegant in it, but 
 the good order and difpofition of its 
 fhidy Walks and Parterrs : It is ever full 
 of good Company. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 185 
 
 The Garden of the Arfend is much 
 larger, and finer kept 5 has the profpeds 
 of the Fields, and lies open to the Ram- 
 parts : It is alfo much frequented for the 
 beauty of its Walks. ■ 
 
 There are alfo divers Conyents which 
 have fpatious and well kept Gardens, 
 which are always open and publick to 
 People of any Note 5 as th^ C/trthufians^ 
 which is vaft and Champeftr^. The Ce- 
 lejiins ^ very fine and larg|b 5 That of 
 St. Genevieve^ which is great, and very 
 well kept 5 and the Tarrajje for length 
 and breadth is incomparable, extreamly 
 well planted with Horfe-chejmts 3 having 
 alfo on the South fide upon the Tarrajje^ 
 5 or 4 fquare Copfes of the fame Trees 5 
 which have a marvellous effeft for Shade 
 in Rummer- 
 
 Thefe Private Gardens 7 faw in Paris. 
 
 UAumont. Its Green Houfe opened in- 
 to the Dining Room : The Orange Trees 
 feemed to have fuffered, and had their 
 Leaves withered 5 for the Room was too 
 broad by half. 
 
 The Treillage^ at the upper end of the 
 Garden, was very well adorned with 
 Gilding, and had in the middle a Pavil- 
 
1 8^ J Journey to Paris- 
 
 Ion, in which was an old Roman Statue 
 of a young Man, very well preferved : 
 The fafhion of the Toga here was fo evi- 
 dent, that it might well pafs for a con- 
 viftion to thofe, who have thought it to 
 be a Plade, or a Garment open before 
 like a Cloak. 
 
 This Treillage is performed with that 
 variety of Ornaments, that it refemblesr 
 Filegreen Work, and is large- The 
 Painting thefe Works in green is not 
 well performed in all places alike 5 it is 
 either too yellow, or of a fad dirty 
 green, or Sea green ^ few have hit the 
 right Grafs green colour. To do it well, 
 it is to be primed in yellow, and tjien to 
 be covered with Vert de Montagne or jL^- 
 pis Armtmacus 5 of which laft colour we 
 have plenty m England dhoxxt Maulham in 
 Craven in lorkgflnre. 
 
 This is the great benefit of Treillage 
 in Cities, that befides the beauty of it 
 to the Eye, it takes away and hides the 
 ill profped of the Neighbouring Houfes. 
 
 Here were very many Fig-Trees v^tW 
 grown in fquare Boxes and Parterrs well 
 ftockt with Flowers 5 each fort by them- 
 felves 5 as Tulips a-part ^ JnnktUs a-part j 
 Anemonies a-part j Kanuncnlms a-part j 
 ^affkdills a-part 
 
2 Journey to Paris. 
 
 187 
 
 Vnljjart. This Garden is very neat, 
 And open at the end to the Tuilleries. 
 ThtTreillage Walk or Arbor at the upper 
 £nd is very fine, 70 Paces long, and 8 
 broad, hath 5 Pavilions all open at the 
 top* It is all of Iron, painted green, 
 andcoft 15000 Livers. 
 
 The Gardner was an Artift ^ andhadfome 
 Plants in Cafes in good order, not to be 
 feen elfewhere, as large Rofemary Bufhes, 
 Jacobasa Maritima, Marum Syriacum, &c. 
 
 The Walls were well covered with 
 Fruit Trees 5 he had not cut his Peaches 5 
 when I askt him the reafon, he told me, 
 it was his way, not to cut them till after 
 flowring, which he found by Experience 
 to improve the Fruity whereas he faid, 
 the early cutting Stockt them, and im- 
 paired the Fruit. 
 
 The Orangery here was the moft beau- 
 tiful Room, for the bignefs, I had feen, 
 paved with Marble, and neatly Wain- 
 fcoted with Oak, from the top to the bot- 
 tom, after our EngUJh manner. I make 
 no doubt it ferved to eat in in Summer, 
 when cleared of Trees, 
 
 BouviUier. I found not any thing 
 IBore remarkable here than the Trellage 
 ^ttheendo 
 
 Comar-t 
 
1 88 A journey to ?ms. 
 
 Comartin. The Trellage in this Garden 
 was moft admirable in the faftiion of a 
 Triumphal Arch 5 half of it was an A" 
 viark, with a Fountain in it, well ftor d 
 with Birds. 
 
 Here were large Iron Vafas upon Pe- 
 deftals, the firft I had feen of the Kind, 
 painted over of a Copper colour. 
 
 Les Dfguieres. This is the only Houfe 
 in Paris, I faw kept in all the parts of 
 it, with the moft exaft cleanlinefs and 
 neatnefs. Gardens and all. 
 
 In the Garden there were feveral pieces 
 of Trellage ^ that at the upper end was 
 very noble, and coft 10000 Livres ^ an- 
 other piece of it coft 6000. But I faw a 
 fmall one all of Iron-leaves painted green, 
 the only one of the Kind. Here alfo 
 were ^reat Vafds of Trel/iage upon Pede- 
 ftals. 
 
 The Fountains in this Garden were very 
 curious, though fmall, with proper Or- 
 naments, which had a marvellous effed, 
 when the Spouts plaied off. 
 
 The firft Court was fet about with Cafes 
 of extraordinary large Laurus Tims, and 
 in the Gardens there were fome cut into 
 fquare Pyramids, 
 
A Journey to VsLtis^ 
 
 A Perfon of Quality came into the 
 Garden to me, who with great Civility 
 conduced me up to the Apartments. 
 
 In the Apartment of the Dutchefs, 
 which was all of her own Contrivance, 
 and had an Air of State and Agreeable- 
 nefs beyond any thing I had feen, I 
 obferved hanging down in the middle of 
 theBed<hamber thefineft CryftalCandle- 
 ftick in Fraftce : The Pieces were all bought 
 fingle by her, and the Contrivance and 
 fetting them together was her own 5 it 
 coft 12000 Crowns. 
 
 But before I left the Garden, in an 
 obfcure Parterre I faw the Tomb of a 
 Cat, vk>. a Black Cat Couchant upon a 
 White Marble Cuftiion , fringed with 
 Gold, and Gold Taflels hanging at the 
 corners upon a fquare Black Marble Pe- 
 deftal : On one of the fides of that Marble 
 is writ in Letters of Gold. 
 
 Cy gifi Memne la plus aimable €^ U 
 Plus aimee de toutes les ckattes. 
 
 On the other fide. 
 
 Cy gijh nne chaite joUe 
 So. maijirejfe qui namoit rkn 
 Uaime jufques a lafoUie 
 ^our quay din I on k voit bkn 
 
1^0 
 
 A Journey to Paris; 
 
 This is not the firft Inftance of thig 
 kind of folly 5 I have feen fomething of 
 it in England 5 and have read much more 
 in Hiftory. 
 
 If you blame me for Tranfcribing this 
 Epitaph, I will fubmit but I could ne- 
 ver have forgiven my felf, if I had Tran-* 
 fcribed the many fine Infcriptions I met 
 with at Park^ though in moft Elegant 
 and truly Roman Words 5 others in pure 
 Court French, You may read them iij 
 the Dejcnption of Pam, 
 
 De Large, We had the good fortune 
 here to find the Marflial himfelf walking 
 in his Garden ^ who Entertained us with 
 great Civility, viz. the Dean of Win^ 
 chefler and my felf. This Garden was 
 not finiftit, and the Houfe it felf was but 
 buildings but it is one of the fined in 
 Paris^ and has the advantage of a moft 
 free and extended profpeft of the Fields 
 and Montmarter : At the end of the Gar- 
 den rifes a Tarrafs equal with the Ram- 
 part. 
 
 That which was in this Houfe and 
 Garden very commodious and noble was, 
 that betwixt the two Courts the Coaches 
 drive through a liately Hall upon Pillars, 
 and might land on either fide, up 1 ftep 
 
A Journey to Paris- i 
 
 or two, which leads to the Staircafes and 
 other Apartments 5 and then in the fur- 
 theft Court, which is only divided from 
 the Garden by high Pallafadoes of Iron, 
 they turn, and take up the Company a- 
 gain 5 fo that no Weather offends them. 
 Which is much wanting here 5 and more 
 with us at London^ where we moft need 
 It. 
 
 This Hall is open upon Arches to the 
 Garden, and the Staircafe it felf is fo 
 contrived, that you enjoy a full profpeft 
 of the Garden and Montmarter in defend- 
 ing. 
 
 The Marftial very obligingly fhewed us 
 his own Apartment 5 for all the reft of 
 the Houfe was full of Workmen ^ and 
 in his Bedchamber his little Red Damasks 
 Field Bed^ which he lay in now, and 
 which alfo ferved him, when he com- 
 manded upon the Rhine. 
 
 He (hewed us his great Sajh Windows 5 
 how eafily they might be lifted up and 
 down, and ftood at any height ; which 
 Contrivance he faid he had out of Eng- 
 hnd^ by a fmall Model brought on pur- 
 pofe from thence : There being nothing 
 of this Voife in Windows in France be- 
 fore. 
 
2 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 He alfo had us into a Set of fmalt 
 Clofets or Rooms, after the EngUfh faftii- 
 on, very prettily furniftied, neatly kept, 
 and retired, with his Englijh Keys to 
 them, as he told us ^ and from thencd 
 we defcended a back Pair of Stairs ; We 
 did all we could to hinder him from fee- 
 ing us take Coach : He fent his Page af- 
 ter us, to invite us fome day to Eat with 
 him. 
 
 Hofiel Pelitier*. The Garden here was 
 very neat, with a Trelliage at the end 
 after the manner of a Triumphal Arch, 
 but not very high, nor well Painted ^ 
 yet its Beauty and Finifliings differ much 
 from any I had feen before. In the two 
 Niches were plac'd great Iron Vafa's or 
 Flower Pots, right before the middle of 
 a Bafin of Water,whichwas fet a Playing 
 for our Entertainment, which is a Corrt- 
 pliment the Frendi are willing to ob- 
 lige Strangers with. 
 
 In the Orangerk were very large Trees, 
 and two pair of Mirtles in Cafes, cut 
 Globe-wife, the beft and biggeft I had 
 feen : Large Buflies in Pots of Marum Sy- 
 riacnm. Great ftore of Tulips, Anpmo* 
 nies, Ranunculus, and other Flowers in 
 Beds, in the Parterre, each by them- 
 felves. 
 
 Alfo 
 
A JouYney to Paris. i^^ 
 
 Alfo Anettionies and Ranunculuses in 
 little Earthen Pots, as with us 5 but in 
 very light Mold. Great and very fair 
 Lanruf Tinuss in CaCes. And, which was 
 lingular, a-long one of the Garden Walls 
 were planted Mel Tree^, whofe tops were 
 difpofed and fpread by an Iron Trelliage 
 into Arches at equal diftances, which 
 had a very good effed. 
 
 The Garden of the HojleUfnllk had no- mjicLfuU 
 thing remarkable in it. 
 
 The beft Piece of Treillage of Iron Lmmiu 
 Bars and Wood intermixt, is that in the 
 Garden of feu Monf. Louvois. And this 
 is one of the neateft Gardens ixiParis, 
 The whole upper end is adorned with a 
 noble Treillage after the manner of a 
 Triumphal Arch 5 it coft a great Sum of 
 Money : There are 4 Statues difpofed on 
 Pedeftals under it, which have a good 
 eff-^ft ^ thefe are Antique, rarely good. 
 One of the firft Emprefles, a Dktia, an 
 Apollo, &c. Here the Walks are hard 
 Gravel, but not Rowled. On one fide of 
 the Treillage is a large Aviarj well ftored 
 with Birds. 
 
 The Walls of . the Green Houfe are 
 Matted 5 and large Fans of Iron hang 
 down in the middle of the Houfe, at 
 
 0 equal 
 
1^4 ^ Journey to Paris. 
 
 equal diftances, to every Window one 5 
 They have Pullies to let them down^orrun 
 them up to what height they pleafe. This 
 way may vety well correft the moiftnefs 
 of the Air, which the breath of the Plants 
 caufe, and fufficiently warm them. Hot 
 Beds pufF up Plants 5 yet a warm Air 
 over their Heads may be as ufeful to re- 
 frefti and nourifh them in Winter. 
 
 Furnier. The laft Private Garden I faw, was 
 that of Mr. Farmer^ a few days before 
 we left the Town, nothing could be pret- 
 tier. At the upper end a noble Treillage^ 
 two great Vafa's of Iron painted of a Brafs- 
 colour and gilt. 
 
 Here I faw an Apple Tree Potted, as the 
 Figs and Oranges ufe to be 5 it was the 
 White Queenen, (or Calvil d'Efte) the 
 Stem of the bignefs only of my Thumb, 
 full of Fruit the firft of Jh^^. 
 
 Many Pots of Sedum Pjiramldde^ now 
 a mod elegant Ornament. But nothing 
 is here fo pompous as do^ible red and jlript 
 Jiockes • which they multiply with care 5 
 and their Pains are juftly Rewarded. 
 With a thoufand other things, which 
 my Ihort turn in the Garden would not 
 give me leave to remember. 
 
 There are great numbers of thefe Pri- 
 vate Gardens in Paris ^ whicli deferve 
 
 feeing J 
 
A Joimiey to Paris. 
 
 feeing 5 but the Seafon of the year not 
 ftiuch favouring our Curiofity, we did 
 not much enquire after theni. 
 
 Hitherto I have 8;iven a fliort Account 
 of what I faw moftly in Paris, as to the 
 People, abroad and at home 5 The Coun- 
 try, round about it, rs full of populous 
 and neat Towns, and many Palaces of 
 the King and Princes of the Blood- which 
 are not to be equalled with any thing we 
 have in England. But I am unwilling to 
 lead you any further, it being much out 
 of my way and humour to go to Court 5 
 but becaufe it was my fortune to be at 
 Verfaillcs^ St. Clon^ Marli^ and Mmdon^ I 
 will venture to fay fomething of each. 
 
 Thefe 4 Royal Palaces and their Gar- 
 dens polTefs a barren and hilly Country, 
 as big as moft Counties in EfigUnd : Two 
 of them, MeudoH. and St. Cloudy have the 
 Profped of Paris under them^ but the 
 former hath it much more open and 
 fully, than the latter. 
 
 This Diftridt may be faid to be Le Ber- 
 eeau dcs Roys^ or the Nurfery of Kings 3 
 for the chief of the Blood Royal are 
 lodged here, vix>. the King, Monfeigneur 
 the Dauphin^ and the 5 Grandfons, the 
 Dukes of Burgnnd)/^ d'Anjoii^ and Berrj^ 
 MonGeur or the Kings Brother, and nis 
 Son the Duke of Char ires ^ and Mademoi- 
 
 O 2 ' - (elle 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 felle his Daughter. All thefe are, or will 
 be (as it is eafie to guefs by the growth and 
 proportions of the youngefl- ; very large 
 and well neaped beautiful People. The other 
 Branch of the Blood Royal, of theHoufe 
 of Bourbon^ as the Prince of Conde^ the 
 Duke of Bourbon, and the Princefles his 
 Daughters, the Prince of Conti^ are all of 
 lefs Stature, but very well fhaped and 
 handfoni. 
 
 The Duke dn Maine and the Conte de 
 Touloufe I did not fee ^ but the Princefs 
 Dowager of Conti often, v/ho is without 
 difpute one of the moft .graceful and 
 handfomeft Women in France^ and me- 
 thinks exceedingly like the King her Fa- 
 ther, as I remember him in his full beau- 
 ty, when I firft faw him in the year -65. 
 
 Thefe 4 Palaces are all intirely built 
 and furniflit in this Kings time, and all 
 the Gardens, and what belongs to them. 
 
 St. Clou is the neareft P^m, and the 
 Caftle is very magnificent, and moft 
 comraodious. The Great Salon and the 
 Gallery are extreamly well Painted. 
 
 The Gardens are a vaft Extent, 1 2 or 
 1 5 miles in compafs. 
 
 The Natural Woods on the South-weft 
 li^e the Houfe, are well Husbanded, and 
 cut into fmall and bigger Alleys, to fave 
 
 the 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 the Trees ^ which they have had fo great 
 a care of, they have kept them (landing 
 not only in the Alleys, but in the very 
 Steps of Stone^ which are made to defcend 
 into the Alleys. 
 
 In the other parts of the Garden the Al- 
 leys are moftly treble, and well (haded, run 
 out in vaft lengths of feveral miles, every 
 where Bafim and Jetts d'eau 5 but there is a 
 Cajrade, which I faw feveral times play, 
 and is fald to be the moft beautiful and 
 beft furnifht with Water of any in 
 France. In the middle of the ferge Ba- 
 linamongft the Woods, I faw a Jet d'ean^ 
 which threw up a Spout of Water 90 
 foot high, and did difcharge it felf with 
 that force, that it made a mi(t and cool- 
 nefs to the Air a great compafs round 
 aljout, and gave now and then cracks 
 like the going off of a Piftol ^ fuch force 
 the vent of Wind in the Pipes had. 
 
 The Pipes which convey the Water are. 
 compofed of Iron Cylinders 3 foot long, 
 fome 10, fome 20 inches diameter, till 
 they divide 5 and then they are of 
 Lead. 
 
 I was once kindly invited to St. Clou 
 by Madam's Phyfician, Monfieur Arlot^ 
 who fent his Coach for me to Fark^ and 
 nobly Treated me : Before Dinner he 
 carried me in his Coach (for this privi- 
 
 O 3 ledge 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 ledge is granted him) into all parts, and 
 round the Gardens ^ which wQre well 
 furnifht with Alleys and Walks, adorn- 
 ed with Cyprefs, Pines, and Firrs, cut 
 into Pyramids ^ and Water-Works every 
 where playing in abundance, particu- 
 larly the Gerbes d'eau were very fine, that 
 is, great and thick, feeming Streams of 
 Walter thrown up into the Air y This is 
 done to husband the Water by a great 
 number of fmall Pipes like a Sheafs to re-- 
 prefent a folid Pillar of Water- 
 
 Monficur has added, and taken into 
 this vaft Garden, a new acquifition of a 
 Mount aim m Platn^ which over-looks all 
 the Country round and will, no doubt, 
 when it is mode] led by that admirable, 
 Contriver Monf k Nojlre, make one of 
 the moft delightful Places in the World. 
 
 rpm the Baluftrade in the Upper Gar- 
 den, the River Seine, and a vaft Plain 
 bounded by Park^ is to be feeri, and 
 makes a moft delightful Profpeft. 
 ; Thefe vaft ridi?j^g Gardens are unknown 
 to us in England, and Je promener a che-- 
 val, OH en carojje^ is not Englifh. We can- 
 not afford to lofe fo much Country, 
 as thofe Gardens take up. I fee in fome 
 Qf the Quarters not only Partridge and 
 Hares plentifully, but, which I wonder- 
 ed at, 5 Biches or Female Red-Deer feed- 
 i^^g- ^ ThQ 
 
A Journey to Paris, i^p 
 
 The Oraf7gery belonging to this Garden 
 is very large and magnificent, paved 
 with Marble, and was filled with vaft 
 Trees in Cafes, not to be brought in or 
 out without proper Engines, but in it 
 there was nothing but thofe Orange Trees, 
 Oleanders, and Laurus Tinus's. He goes 
 out of the end of his Appartment, that 
 is, the noble painted Gallery is conti- 
 nued upon a level with the Orangery, 
 which leads diredly into an afcending 
 Walk of a vaft length ^ and alfo fronts 
 or flanks all along the Parterre or- 
 Flower Garden 5 where they are difpofed 
 of in Summer. At this Treat I eat of a 
 Preferve or Wet Sweetmeat, made of 
 Orange Flowers, incomparable 5 and the 
 Lady obliged me with the manner of 
 making it. 
 
 Though there were high and proper 
 Walls for Fruit in many parts of the 
 Garden, yet nothing of that nature 
 was to be found, only ordinary and in- 
 frudfiferous Greer7s were faftned to the 
 Treillage, which are the Linings of moft 
 Walls here. In the Garden are many 
 Arbours of Treillage, Pavilions, &c. of 
 Iron mixt with Wood, painted Green, 
 with Honey Suckles running up tliem. 
 Thefe Gardens have above 150 People 
 always imployed to keep them in or- 
 
 O 4 der 5 
 
200 A Journey to Parish 
 
 der^ which ftands in 40000 Livres a 
 year. 
 
 Another time I Dined with the 
 Captain of the Caftle, who fhewed 
 me all the Apartments at leifure. I eat 
 here of the Red Leg'd Partridge taken 
 here upon thefe Hills 5 They are much 
 lefs here than in Languedoc^ but yet far 
 better tafted, than the Grey Partridges 
 taken in the fame place. This was the 
 beginning of April, and we drank our 
 VVine in Ice, which I was not aware ofl^ 
 till I found the bad effeft of it in my 
 throat ^ and the next day much more 5 
 but if went off again without any great 
 trouble. There is no Animal that abufes 
 it felf in Meat and Drink, as Man does \ 
 we daily drink exceffive hot and exceflive 
 cold ^ in other Creatures it's Inftinft that 
 guides them, bijt as for us we neither a£fe 
 by Inftin£l:,nor Reafon ^ butbetwixt both 
 toofely\, and therefore oftner are catcht, to 
 our own deftrudion. ^ ■ 
 
 At the end of the Apartments o£ 
 Monfieur, are a fine Set of Clofets ^ The 
 firft you enter is furnifht with great va- 
 riety of Reck Cryftals, Cups, Agats up^ 
 on fmali Stands, and the fides.; of tm 
 Kooms are lined with large Panes of 
 |>ooking-glafs from top to the bottom, 
 V/ith Jaj^ah Varnifli and :^aintings of e- 
 
A journey to Paris. 201 
 
 qual breadth intermixt ^ which had a 
 marvellous pretty elTeft* The other 
 Room had in it a vaft quantity of Bijou^ 
 and many of very great Price ^ but the 
 Siam Pagods, and other things from thence, 
 were very odd. 
 
 There was alfo one very fmall Roman 
 Statue of White Marble, not 10 inches 
 high, which coft 20000 Crowns ^ one 
 Leg of it was a little injured. It feemed 
 a Piece of admirable Workmanfhip* It 
 was a Boy^ who had in the Skirt of his 
 Tunic a Litter of Puppies^ and the Bitch 
 lying at his feet and looking up. 
 
 1 cannot fay much of Meudon^ becaufe Meudm. 
 1 was not within the Houfe or Park 5 it 
 will require yet fome time to bring it to 
 that perfection which is defigned, for that 
 Monfeigneur has been but lately poflefled 
 of it ^ The Road from P^r^ to it is yetun- 
 pived ^ but the Situation is admiraDle,and 
 the Splanade before the Houfe is like a vaft 
 Baftion, and commands the full view of 
 all the Campagne, and Paris under it. 
 The Gardens are very great, but I only 
 coafted them, and the Houfe. 
 
 As to the Palace of Verfailles^ (which is VerfaiSn* 
 yet fome miles further within the Moun- 
 tainous Country, not xxnYikQ BlackcHeath 
 
2 A Journey to Parish 
 
 or Tnnbridgi) 'tis without difpute the moft 
 magnificent of my in Europe 5 Yet what of 
 it was fir ft built, and much admired 30 
 years ago, is now no longer relifht : 
 However this King intends to rebuild it, 
 where it is faulty. Tis, as I faid, plac d 
 in a very ungrateful Soil, without Earth 
 proper for Herbs, or Water 5 but he hath 
 brought that to it in abundance, and made 
 the Ground too to be fruitful. 
 
 There are Books writ to defcribe this 
 famous Palace in every part 5 to which I 
 refer the Reader. The Way fo it is new^ 
 and in fonie places the Mountains are cut 
 down 40 foot, fo that now you enjoy it 
 a mile in profped): before you come to it^ 
 it opens and clofes in 5 Courts, the more 
 remoteft narrower and narrower 5 which 
 is a fault 5 and is, as I was told, defigned 
 to be pulled down, and made into one 
 noble large fquare Court of the fame or- ' 
 der of building, as that magnificent Front 
 is, which looks upon the Gardens. The 
 Gilded Tiles and Roof have a marvellous 
 effed in profpedt. The Splan^de towards 
 the Gardens and Parterres are the no- 
 bleft things that can be feen, vaftly great, 
 with a very large Bafin of Water in the 
 middle, walled round with white Marble, 
 on which are placed a great number of 
 incomparable Brazen Vafa , and large 
 
 Brafs 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Brafs Figures couchmt^oi the beft Mafters 
 in Sculpture ^ it were endlefs to tell all 
 the Furniture of thefe Gardens of Marble 
 Statues, and Vafa of Brafs and Marble, 
 the multitude of Fountains, and thofe 
 wide Canals like Seas running in a ftreight 
 line from the bottom of the Gardens, as 
 far as the Eye can reach. 
 
 In a Word, thefe Gardens are a Coun- 
 trey laid out into Alleys and Walks, 
 Groves of Trees, Canals and Fountains, 
 and every where adorned with ancient 
 and modern Statues and Vafct innumer- 
 able. 
 
 May the 17th the Waters were order- 
 ed to Play for the Diverfion of the En- 
 glish Gentlemen. The Playing of the 
 Spouts of Water, thrown up into the 
 Air, is here diverfified after a thoufand 
 fafhions. The Theatre des eaux^ and the 
 Triumphal Arch are themoft famous Pieces. 
 But in the Groves of the Left Hand, you 
 have JEjbps Fables^ in fo many Pieces of 
 Water- Works, here and there in Wind- 
 ing-Alleys. This might have been faid 
 to be done m Ufum Delphini. Tis pretty 
 to fee the Owle wafht by all the Birds 5 
 the Munk}e hugging her young one, till 
 it fpouts out Water with a full Throat,, 
 and open Mouth, 
 
 The 
 
204 ^ Jmney to Paris. 
 
 Tlie Orangery, or Winter Confervato^ 
 ry for Tubs of Winter Greens, is what 
 correfponds to the greatnefs of the reft* 
 Tis a ftupendioas half fquare of under- 
 ground Vaults, like the Naves of fo many 
 Churches put together, of exquifiteWork- 
 manftiip in hewn Stone, well lighted and 
 open to the South Sun. It contains 
 5000 Cafes of Greens ^ whereof near 
 2000 are Orange Trees, and many hun- 
 dreds of them are as big as generally 
 they naturally grow in the Earth : Hence 
 amongft them are fome, which are faid 
 to be in Cafes from the time of Francis 
 the Firft. 
 
 They did not think fitting to put them 
 out this year till the latter end of May • 
 and indeed their Oleanders, Laurels, Len- 
 tifcus's, and moft other Greens, had fuf- 
 fered miferably. 
 
 In the Pottagerie ( which is part of 
 thefe Gardens, and hath its magnificence 
 alfo) there are 700 Cafes of Figs, be- 
 fides Wall Fruit of all other Kinds : By 
 all the Gardens in and about Paris, I per- 
 ceived they are very fond of this Fruit. 
 
 I obferved in fmall Fiance or Painted 
 Pots a vaft number of the narrow leaved 
 Laurus Alexandrina • alfo Tklapfi flore albo^ 
 LeHcoii folio .latifolium 2^ alfo the SedumPy- 
 ramidahi^ Thefe are not yet Ornaments 
 in our Gardens, that I know of The 
 
A Journey to Paris. 205 
 
 The 15th of Maj my Lord Ambafla- 
 dor went to Marli^ where the Waters MsrU. 
 played for his Diverfion. 
 
 I muft needs fay it is one of the plea- 
 fanteft Places I ever faw, or, I believe, is 
 in Europe 3 it is feated in the bofom or 
 upper end of a high Valley, in the niidft 
 of and furrounded with Woody Hills. 
 The Valley is clofed at the upper end, 
 and gently defcends forwards by degrees, 
 and opens wider and wider, and gives 
 you the profped of a vaft plain Coun- 
 trey, and the River Sewe running through 
 it. 
 
 Marli is a fquare Houfe raifed upon 
 Steps, and Terrafled on all fides 5 The 4 
 Fronts all alike ^ and the Doors opening 
 into the Garden all the fame. In the 
 middle a/r O^iogon-haU, running up Dome- 
 wife, in which all the fide Rooms meet 5 
 which are all Rooms of State. Above 
 are 12 Lodgings, with a narrow Gallery 
 leading to them. In the lower Rooms at 
 hUrlt^ particularly in the O&ogon Salan^ 
 are extraordinary large (6 foot at leaft) 
 Marble, or rather Agat Tables 5 To the 
 beft of which they may be compared. 
 They are veined like Wood, and of an 
 Amber colour:^ Thefe are the admirable 
 gffeft of Petrification^ Of this very 
 ^ Stone 
 
o6 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Stone I have feen great Blocks in the 
 Banks of the Dropping Well at Kmresbo- 
 rough in Torkejfnre. I forgot to ask hete 
 whence they had them. 
 
 In one of the Ground Rooms was a 
 Semicircular Gilt Bar or Rail, which took 
 off and inclofed the upper end of the 
 Room : Within the Bar was difpofed fe- 
 veral Rows of Porcellain or fine China 
 on Gilt Shelves* Here at the Corners, 
 within the Bar, opened two fmall Doors, 
 whence the Ambaflador and his Retinue 
 were plentifully ferved with Chocolate, 
 Tea, and Coffee, in a moft obliging man- 
 ner 5 Many of the Nobility and Gentle- 
 men of France were ordered to attend 
 'him there. 
 
 The two fide Fronts of the Houfe have in 
 profped great Alleys cut through the 
 Woods, and paved for the more com- 
 modious coming down to the Houfe 5 
 which is defcending all the way. 
 
 On each fide the Valley, clofe under 
 the Woods, run along in a line, fix fquare 
 Pavilions or fmaller Palaces of the very 
 fame figure and beauty with the Mother 
 Houfe 5 at equal, but large diftances, as 
 500 Paces. The 6 on the right hand the 
 Garden are for the Men • The other 6 on 
 the left are for the Women of Quality 5 
 whom the King weekly appoints, Vipbn 
 
A Journey to Paris. 2 
 
 a Lift given, to attend him, and enjoy 
 the Pleafure of this Retirement, as I may 
 fay, fi:om Court. Before thofe Pavil- 
 ions, and betwixt them, are the fineft 
 Alleys and Walks imaginable, with Foun- 
 tains, and all the Decorations of Treil- 
 lage and Flowers. Such a fhew of not 
 ordimrji Tulips in broad Beds, of a 1000 
 Paces long, every where, all this vaft 
 Garden over, in their full beauty, was a 
 moft furprifing fight. I could not for- 
 bear to fay to the Duke de ViUeroy^ who 
 was pleafed much to accompany me in 
 this Walk, That fure all the Gardens in 
 France had contributed to this Profufion 
 of Flowers ^ which he took fo well, that 
 the Marijhal his Father^ afterwards de- 
 tached himfelf to fingle me out, and 
 very obligingly embraced me, and fa- 
 luted me with a Kifs, and followed it 
 with very kind and familiar Difcourfe. 
 
 The tafcade coming down from the 
 brow of the Hill, on that Front of the 
 Houfe which refpeds and ftands near it, 
 was new and fingular, and of the Kings 
 own invention, as, indeed, all the Gar- 
 den befides. From the Houfe it appeared 
 a Broad River ^ quietly gliding down the 
 Hill ; but when I went near it, I found 
 it compofed of 52 large fquare and (hal- 
 low Bafins of Water, difpofed at right 
 
 Angles 
 
20 8 A Journey to ParisJ 
 
 Angles, and not declining, but falling over 
 one into another. 
 
 In the Garden were many Fountains, 
 nobly adorned, and had variety of Wa-* 
 ter Pipes playing up into the Air in them* 
 Here are fome Gerhes of a lingular faftii-* 
 on, with a Circle of a great nuni^ 
 ber of large Pipes, within at leaft two 
 foot diameter ^ which made the appea- 
 rance of a vaft Pillar of Waten There 
 was one "jet d'em in the bottom of the 
 Garden, which we were told threw up 
 Water 120 foot high 5 for of 50 and 
 more Fountains, we faw but thofe on the 
 fide Alleys to play 5 moft of the great 
 Bafins in the middle were mending, and 
 dry. To furnifh all this Water, there 
 is a moft ftupendious Machine^ which 
 was invented by 2 Liegois. This Machine 
 forces the Water up 560 foot, from the 
 River Selne^ to the top of the Tower or 
 Aqueduft. It throws up 500 inches of 
 Water by almoft continued Ructations, 
 , or quick Pulfes. It is wrought by 14 
 Wheels of 32 feet diameter each, fet in 
 the River, and carried about night and 
 day by its Stream. 
 
 This Invention is the fame with what 
 is praftifed in the deep Coal-pits about 
 Leeds m Lower-Germany'^ fo that to fee 
 the Engines^, and a great number of If ou 
 
 Cylin- 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Cylinders or Water Pipes, lying bare 
 above ground^ and running up a vaft 
 Mountain, is to imagine a deep Coal^ 
 Mine turned wrongfide outward. 
 
 The Tree nioft in ufe here, was the 
 fmall leaved Home-Beam which ferves for 
 Arcades^ Berceaus 5 and alfo Standards with 
 Globular Heads : At the foot of which they 
 have planted little Sprigs of the fame of ai 
 foot and half high and alfo in fome 
 places in like manner, whole areas full of 
 them 5 which cut fmooth and level, 
 make the fineft green Hedges I ever faw 
 Some of thefe low Hedges were 12 foot 
 broad, and in a barren and dry Climate 
 fupply very artificially the ufe of Grafs- 
 plots. 
 
 'Tis certainly very commendable in 
 the King, who pleafes himfelf in Plant- 
 ing and Pruning the Trees with his own 
 Hand, to make ufe of no other Trees, but 
 what the Neighbouring Woods afford ^ 
 fo that 'tis admirable to fee whole Alley? 
 of Pole Hedges of great height, and long 
 Rows of goodly Standard Globes of 
 months growth only. 
 
 If this great King, as he grows old^r, 
 fhould take a fancy to place himfelf in a 
 warmer Climate^ (and he has a good one 
 of his own, as any under the Sun, ini 
 hdnguedoc) as he does his Winter Greens 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 in proper Houfes ^ (and, me-thinks, this 
 Inftance alone ftiould be fufEcient, ta : 
 convince him of the neceffity there is to 
 cherifli decaying Nature, and that a Na- 
 turally warm Air is a better fence, than 
 Cloaths or Fire) what Wonders would 
 not his Purfe and Paffion for Planting do 
 there ? 
 
 The next Woods in Lmgmdoc would 
 afford L^?«re/, and Afyr^/w for Pole Hedges 5 
 LentifcMss and Phjlarea's in as great abun- 
 dance, as Hazel or Thorn with us. Alfo 
 Jafm'ms for Arbors and TreiUage 5 Cijlus's 
 and Rofmary , and a hundred other 
 fweet fmelling Woody Shrubs grow 
 every where in the Fields, to furnifh the 
 Fots and Vafa. 
 
 There the tall Cypress grow of them-^ 
 felves, to 60 and 100 foot high, like fo 
 many Towers 5 and alfo Tonjil at plea- 
 fure, for the moffc beautiful Pole Hedges 
 imaginable. The very Fields are moft 
 Excellent, and well furnifht Parterrs of 
 Flowers, and are Naturally Pottageries, 
 or Kitchin Gardens. The Vineyards are 
 very Orchards 5 and all the moft tender 
 Fruits with us are there Standards ^ as 
 Figs, and Grapes of all forts, Apricocks, 
 Peaches, Neftorins, Jujubs, &c. The de- 
 licious and large Cherries 5 and, what- 
 ever has been faid to the contrary, Pipins 
 
A Journey to V2Lm. 211 
 
 and Pears there are in far greater per- 
 feftion, than with us, or in any parts of 
 France elfe, befides that happy Climate* 
 
 What was it for fo great a King to 
 tiiake a Walk from Marli to Montpelier^ or 
 (if I might choofe) to Pefiems^ feated in 
 the bofom of a well Watered Valley^ 
 inclofed with perfumed Hills. Tis not 
 half fo far as betwixt Labor and Agrla^ 
 two Seats the Mogul has thus joined. 
 This would Eternife his Name, above 
 any Palace he has yet built, and bring 
 to himfelf much Health in his old Age. 
 The Gardens of the Hefperides^ and the 
 Labyrinths of Cande^ fo famous in Hiftory, 
 would be nothing to fuch wonderful 
 Performances, as his Abilities and Happy 
 Genius is capable of. For befides the 
 Natural Produd of the Countrey, the 
 Climate alfo is capable of producing, and 
 nourifhing with fmall Art and Expence, 
 what ever Plants both the Indies can af- 
 ford. Whereas, at this end of the 
 World, we drudge in vain 5 and force a 
 Pleafure which is dead, and gone before 
 we can well enjoy it : We have indeed 
 a kind of fhew of the Summer Delights^ 
 but all on a fuddain we drop into a long 
 and tedious Winter again. But we love 
 the Places we are ufed to, or born in. 
 Man, to fay the truth, is a very Animal^ 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 as any Quadrupede of them all^ and 
 moft of his Adlions are refolvable into 
 Inftinfl:, notwithftanding the Principles 
 which Cuftom and Education haveiuper- 
 induced. 
 
 The pleafure of feeing is fcarce to be 
 tired ^ but yet after 2 or 5 hours Walk 
 in fo fine and great a Garden, I was 
 forc't to make a halt behind the Com- 
 pany, and glad to retire to the gilt Bu- 
 reau in the Palace again, to refrefti my 
 felf 5 where I found fome of the Kings 
 Officers waiting, and fome other Gentle- 
 men of the Houfhold, who had made fe- 
 veral Campagnes in Flanders. I had now 
 more a mind to a Glafs of cool Burgun- 
 dy^ than the infignificant Indian Liquors^ 
 which though I knew was againft the 
 fanftity of the place, yet nothing was 
 denied me a Stranger. Here being alone, 
 we fell into Difcourfe of the Englifh^ and 
 of their King. They willingly allowed 
 the Englljij to be truly Brave 5 and now 
 in Peace they found alfo, that they were 
 as Civil, and well Bred, as Brave 5 That 
 no Nation had given the King and his 
 Court that fatisfaftion, that the EngUfl) 
 had done ^ being curious and inquifitive 
 after all good things 5 They did fee a 
 great difference betwixt them and other 
 Nations 5 They did not ftare^, and care- 
 
A Journey /o Paris. 
 
 lesfly run about, or hold up their Heads, 
 and defpife what they faw 5 but had a 
 true relifh of every good thing, and 
 made a good Judgment of what was 
 Commendable 5 and therefore the King 
 took pleafure to have them fliewed e- 
 very thing. This Difcourfe of the En- 
 gUJJ) they concluded with a great Enco- 
 mium of K. William. 
 
 As for their own King they were much 
 in the Praile of him, as one may eafily 
 imagine : That his Retirement hither 
 was moftly for his Health 5 That he 
 left Verfailles every Tuefday night, and 
 came hither with a feledt Company of 
 Lords and Ladies 5 That he returned not 
 till Saturday night, and fometimes inter- 
 mitted 10 or 14 days 5 fo that he fpent 
 half of his time here in Repofe ^ That he 
 was the moft affable Prince in the World, 
 and never out of Humour, of a pleafant and 
 open Converfation where it pleafed him 5 
 eafie of accefs, and never fent anyone 
 away difcontented 5 The moft Bountiful 
 Mafter in the World, of which there 
 were Ten thoufand Inftances 5 nothing of 
 ^erit in any Kind, but he moft readily 
 and chearfully Rewarded, ever, of late 
 years at leaft, preferring the Virtuous ^ 
 io on the other hand, he never fpared 
 the Rebellious and Obftinate 5 That the 
 
 P 3 Go- 
 
214 A 'journey to Parlsi 
 
 Government of his People could not be 
 carried on with lefs feverity and ftrid- 
 jiefs 5 nor the Taxes which was neceflary 
 to fupport it, raifed ^ That he delighted 
 not in Blood or Perfecution ^ but that the 
 Art of Government had different Rules, 
 according to the Climate and Nature of 
 the PeopIe,where and upon whom it was 
 to be put in pradice. His great Wifdom 
 appeared in nothing more, than in pre- 
 ferving himfelf amidft his Troops, his 
 Converts, his Court and numerous Fa- 
 mily, all in a manner fit for the Throne. 
 The greatnefs of his Mind, and Magni- 
 ficence, in his Buildings. This was the 
 Sum of the Difcourfe thefe Gentlemen 
 were pleafed to entertain me with. 
 
 Thepp' At my return to Park I was to fee the 
 neirie. Pipif^erie, or Rojal Nurjery of Plants^ in 
 the Faiixbonrgh of St. Honorie where ! 
 met the Mafter or Controuler of it, Mon- 
 fieur Morlejf, one of the Ufhers of the 
 Bed-Chamber tothe King. 
 
 • He, like the reft of the French Nation, 
 was Civil to me , and (hewed me ^ Writ- 
 ten Almanack of Flowring Plants for the 
 Whole year, which he faid was an Ori- 
 ginal 5 it might, indeed, be fo in i'r^z?^^, 
 |>ut we hc^ve had Almanacks for Fruit 
 %m. Flowers, for every month in the 
 
A Journey to Paris* 
 
 year. Printed divers times, for above 
 this 50 years, thanks to Mr. Evely?!. 
 
 This Ground inclofed with high Walls 
 ' is Y^ftly big, as it ought to be, to fup- 
 ply the Kings Gardens 5 Here are feveral 
 Acres of young Pines, Cyprelles, Vues^ 
 d^c. alfo vaft Beds of Stock July-Flowers, 
 of all forts of Bulbes, as Tulips, Dafi- 
 dills. Crocus's, &c. and therefore I could 
 eafily believe him, when he told me, 
 he had fent from hence to Marli alone, 
 in 4 years time, 18 millions of Tulips, 
 and other Bulbous Flowers 5 for which 
 he offered to fhew me his Memoires. 
 
 He further told me, that the furnifhing 
 the Trianon^ ( a peculiar Houfe of Plea- 
 fure, with its Parterres at the end of the 
 Gardens at Verfailles) with Flower Pots in 
 feafon, every 14 days in the Summer, 
 took up no lefs than 920G0 Pots from 
 hence, 
 
 Alfo from hence he could Plant and 
 furnifh in 14 days time, any new Gar- 
 den the King ftiould caufe to be made. ' 
 
 Here befides the Plants common to us 
 and them, I faw a multitude of Pots, well 
 conditioned of St£chas citrina folio latmf- 
 chIo. 
 
 Alfo a fort of Cotila, which bore large 
 Sun Flowers or Marigolds, propagated by 
 Slips, called by him Amdmutre. 
 
 ' P 4 In 
 
2 1 ^ ^ A Journey to Paris- 
 
 In this Ground are feveral Houfes td 
 lodge the tender Winter Greens ^ a- 
 ttiongft the reft there is one vejry large, 
 which I may call the Infirmery of 
 fick Orange Trees 5 which coming from 
 Genoa by Sea^ are here depofited in a pe- 
 culiar Green Houfe 5 and there were iii 
 it, and then actually carrying out into 
 the Air, (it was the 22th of May pur 
 Style) goo Trees in Cafes as thick as a 
 Man s Thigh 5 but after lo, and fome 
 after 1 7 years cherifhing, had not yet 
 got Heads decent enough to be removed, 
 and to appear at Court, they being often 
 forct to lop both Tops and Root, that 
 they might recover them. 
 
 After all, it muft be faid, that this 
 Magnificence, and the number of thefe 
 Palaces and Gardens, are the beft and 
 moft commendable effeft of Arbitrary Go- 
 vernment. If thefe Expences were not in 
 time of Peace, whaf would be this Kings 
 Riches, and the extream Poverty of the 
 Peo{^^ For it is laid, that every 5 years, 
 fome^y much oftncr, he has all the 
 Wealth of the Nation in his Coffers 5 
 fo that there is a neceffity he ftiould have 
 as extravagant and incredible ways of 
 €xperiding it, that it may have its due 
 fcitculatioll amorigft the People, 
 
il Journey to Paris.' 
 
 But when thi$ vaft Wealth and Power 
 Is turned to the Difturbance and Deftru- 
 OCion of Mankind, it is terrible 5 and yet 
 it hath its ufe too : We and all Europe 
 have been taught, by the Induftry of 
 this great King, mighty Improvements 
 in War 5 fo that Europe has been thefe 
 12 years an Over-match for the Turk^z^ 
 and we for France by the continuation of 
 the War. The 40 Millions Sterling 
 which the late War hath, and will coft 
 England^ before all is paid, was well be- 
 flowed, if it had been for no other end, 
 than to teach us the full ufe and praftice 
 of War 5 and in that Point to equal us 
 with our Neighbours. 
 
 It was obferved by Polyblus of the Ro- 
 mans^ that wherever they met with an 
 Enemy, that had better Weapons than 
 themfelves, they changed with them 5 
 This Docility gained them the Empire 
 of the World. On the contrary, thofe 
 late Eaftern Tyrants have defpifed 
 Learning, and confequently muft fubmit 
 to the more refined Valour of Europe. I 
 fay, the Effeds of Arbitrary Govern- 
 jiient, both in War and Peace, are Stu- 
 pendious. ^ 
 
 The Roman Emperours^ becaufe abfo- 
 lute Lords of the People, far out-did the 
 Commonwealth in Magnificent Build- 
 ^ ' " ings. 
 
^ i S A Journey to Paris.' 
 
 ings, both Publick and Private. Au^ 
 gufiuf ldt Rome a Marble City, which he 
 found of Brick only. Nero burnt it and 
 rebuilt it, and a Golden Palace for himfelf, 
 like a City. Vejpatian and Titus built 
 Amphitheaters and Baths far furpafSng 
 any Buildings now upon the face of the 
 Earthy in one of which 120000 Perfons 
 might fee and hear, and be feated with 
 more convenience, than upon our Stages. 
 Adrian vifited moft parts of the World, 
 on purpofe to build Cities. Trajan had 
 his Name on every Wall, which he either 
 areftored, or built. His Pillar and Bridge 
 over the Danube are Stupendious Monu- 
 ments of his Expences. 
 
 The Mgyptian Kings built them Monu- 
 ments, wherein they flaved their whole 
 Nation, and which are the Wonders of 
 the World to this day, the Obelisks I 
 mean, and Pyramids. 
 
 The Afiatick^ Emperours of China and 
 Japan have outdone the Europeans in this 
 kind of immenfe Buildings, as the Wall 
 in China^ the Cut Rivers and Sluces and 
 JSridges there. In Japan the Buildings 
 are no lefs incredibly great. 
 
 Of this Abfolute Dominion we have 
 Examples even in thofe two American 
 Empires, of Mexico and Fern. In this 
 Jaft, meer Nature forct Impoffibilities 
 
 with« 
 
A Journey to Parish 21 
 
 jmthout Art, Tools, or Science. The 
 Cufco Fortrefs was a Mafter-piece, where 
 Stones were laid upon Stones, which no 
 Engine of ours could carry, or raife up 5 
 or Tools better polifh, and fit together • 
 where a Country near as big as all Eu- 
 rope^ was turned into a Garden, and cul- 
 tivated better than Ver failles^ and Water- 
 Works brought to Play and overfpread 
 fome thoufands of miles, where it never 
 Rains. This v/as the only iVrbitrary Go- 
 vernment well applied to the good of 
 Mankind, I ever met with in Hiftory 5 
 where Roads and Store-houfes of Food 
 and Raiment were the Guides, and num- 
 bred the miles for the Travellers, and 
 the whole Empire turned into an ufeful 
 and intelligible Map. 
 
 As for the Turks^ Ferfans^ and Moguls 
 the whole Empire is intended folely for 
 the Pleafure of one Man 5 and here even 
 Tyranny it felf is foully abufed. 
 
 Yet I ftiould be loth to fee them in 
 any kind exemplified in England. In our 
 happy Ifland we fee fuch Palaces and 
 Garden?, as are for the Health and Eafe 
 of Man only 5 and what they want in 
 Magnificence, they have in Neatnefs. 
 There is not fuch a thing as a Gravel 
 Walk, in or about Park^ nor a Rowter c£ 
 any fort ^ when it Rains the Tuilleries 
 
i2d A Journey to Vms. 
 
 are (hut up, and one walks in Dirt fome 
 days after. The Grafs Plots, or, as they 
 call them Bmling Greens^ are as ill kept, 
 they clip them and beat them with flat 
 Beaters as they do their Walks. This puts 
 me in mind of what I faw in the Garden 
 of the Frince of Conde in Paris 5 where 
 there was a Grafly Circle of about 4 
 foot wide, round one of the Fountains 
 in the middle of the Garden 5 to keep this 
 down, and make it of a finer Turf, the 
 Gardner had Teathered two BUck^ Lambs^ 
 and two White Kids^ at equal diftances, 
 which fed upon it. What ever the effe6fc 
 was, I thought it lookt pretty enough 5 
 and the little Animals were as Ornamen- 
 tal, as the Grafs. 
 
 All the Paintings and Prints made of 
 late years of the King make him look 
 very old 5 which In my mind is not fo 5 
 for he is plump in the Face, and is well 
 coloured, and feems healthy, and eats 
 and drinks heartily, which I faw him do 5 
 This is certainly an injury to him, and 
 poffibly in complaifance to the Dauphin, 
 or worfe. This is the meaneft Compliment 
 I have known the French guilty of to- 
 wards their Prince • for there are every 
 where Expreffions of an other nature all 
 over Paris. See The Defcrlption of Paris^ 
 .where they are collected and at large. 
 
A Journey to Paris- 2 
 
 ^he Romans under Avguftus^ (thefirftAb- 
 folute Mafter of that People, as this King 
 is of the French) had upon this Subjeft 
 from the People a much finer thought, 
 and wifh, De noflris annis tihi Jupiter aih 
 geat annos. 
 
 However it be, the King feems not to 
 like Ver failles fo well as he did 5 and has 
 an Opinion, that the Air is not fo good, 
 as elfewhere 5 he leaves it ( as I faid ) 
 every week on Tuefday night, and goes 
 Xiioftly to Marli^ or Meudon^ and fome- 
 times to the Trianon^ which is but at the 
 end of the Gardens, and returns not to 
 Verfailles till Saturday night : Befides his 
 extraordinary removes to Fontainbkau. 
 I wonder no body puts him in mind of 
 that Paradife of France^ Languedoc^ where 
 he may be with eafe in 4 days, at the 
 Rate that Kings ufe to TraveL I had this 
 Difcourfe at Table with one of the In- 
 trodufteurs to the Ambafladour at Ver- 
 failles but he could not bear it, it being 
 againft the Intereft of all fettled Courts 
 to remove, though it were never fo good 
 jfor their Princes Health. I remember 
 but of one Inftance in Hiftory, and that 
 was Aurenzebe the Great Moguls who in 
 his middle Age fell defperately fick, and 
 long languiftit at Labor ^ but took Advice 
 of fome body about hini, and went in 
 
A Journey to fmsl 
 
 his own Kingdom a progrefs of looo 
 miles to Ca/mire^ 2l very mild and tern-* 
 perate Climate, where he recovered, and 
 lived to almoft a icq years old. 
 
 The King now feldom or never Plays, 
 but contents hi mfelf fometiraes with look- 
 ing on 3 but he hath formerly been en^ 
 gaged, and has loft great Sums. Mon-*, 
 fieur S. Rookt him of near a Million of 
 Livers at Baflet, by putting falfe Cards 
 upon him 3 but was imprifoned and ba- 
 nifht for it fome years. 
 
 Before I give over the Bufinefs of Gar- 
 dens and Countrey, I will add fome Re- 
 marks, which feemed particular and new 
 to me. 
 
 In the Kitchin Gardens at and neat 
 Paris^ are a great number of Apricoc^ 
 Standards-^ but kept low 5 very full of 
 Bloflbms, and good Bearers. 
 
 They make a Conferve of the Fruit 5 
 which I like above any of their Wet 
 Sweetmeats 3 it was made by cutting; 
 them into thin flices, and throwing a- 
 way the Stone 3 which our People fpare 
 fometimes, and leave in the Flefh intire, 
 and fpoils the Sweetmeat, and fets it at 
 fretting. 
 
 They 
 
A Journey to Paris. 223 
 
 I'hey imploy the Stones in Brandy, and 
 diftil them in Spirits. 
 
 In the beginning of April we had ftore 
 of Sparagrafs, but they were often fo 
 bitter, to me at leaft, that there was little 
 pleafure in eating them. Tis certain 
 they were much worfe, than ours in 
 England in that particular. Which puts 
 me in mind of the Wild Sparagrafs^ which 
 grows plentifully with us on the SeaCoajl 
 in Lincoln/hire. This is very fair to the 
 Eye 5 yet no culture of our Gardens, by 
 often tranfplanting, could make it eat- 
 able. I fancy the Sparagrafs recovers forpe- 
 thing of its natural force in a warmer 0i- 
 mate 3 for the fweet is as it were degene- 
 rated. If they would have them good 
 here, they muft renew the Seed from 
 England or Holland. 
 
 The Wild Sparagrafs of Languedoc is 
 another Plant called Cormda. 
 
 I procured out of Languedoc a fort of 
 Precox Vine^ about 50 Plants, by the 
 Clermont Carrier 5 the which I gave to 
 Mr. London^ our Kings Gardner, for my 
 Lord AmbalTador. This Grape is White, 
 very thin Skinn d, and clear as a drop of 
 Water ^ it is ufually ripe at iS*^. John^-- 
 mafs in July at Montpellier^ where it is 
 called Dts ZJnks. 
 
 There 
 
A Journey to tmsl 
 
 There are alfo in this Town Precox 
 Grapes^ as Dr. Tumfort told me, in the 
 Phyfick Garden 5 but whether the fame 
 with the Z)ntes^ I know not. 
 
 I have faid they delight much in Figs 
 in Pots or Cafes 5 but here is another 
 way of preferving the Fig Trees fet in the 
 Ground, which is much praftifed 5 and 
 that is to lap, and tie them up in long 
 Straw, from top to bottom 5 for which 
 they are placed at a little diftance from 
 the Walls. This alfo is praftifed to fuch 
 Trees as ftand in the middle of the Par- 
 terre 3 they did not open them till Mid- 
 May. 
 
 The Exotic Trees, which the Varifims 
 moft delight in, for their Garden Walks, 
 and for the Shade in their Courts, are 
 the Maromers^ or Horfe Chefnuts^ of which 
 they have innumerable 3 for the Fruit 
 ripens very well here, and comes up of 
 it felf. Alfo the Acacia Rovmi^ which is 
 very common, and makes pretty Alleys, 
 and which they lop and turn to Pollards^ 
 mth good effe& 5 but of thefe laft the 
 Leaves are late in putting forth, it being 
 the 1 5 th of Maj/ our Syle, when thefe 
 Trees were fcarce green. 
 
 May 25, when I took my Leave of 
 Monfieur Valllant^ I found him in hi^ 
 Flower Garden 5 he fhewed me a Parcel 
 
A Journey to Paris. '225 
 
 of Rammculus\ in full Flower, which he 
 had received but two years before from 
 Conjiantimple • They were very beautiful 
 ^nd rare, at leaft fuch as I had never 
 feen 5 as pure White, White and Green, 
 White and Strip t with Carnation, Pure 
 Carnation or Rofe-colour, Strip't Carna- 
 tion, &c. 
 
 Of thefe he had fold fome a Piftol a 
 Root, and hoped in a year or two to be 
 more plentifully ftock't with them, that 
 he might afford them cheaper. I did fee 
 afterwards a few of them in the Royal 
 Pipwerie^ and alfo in the Seedfman s Gar- 
 den, Monfieur le Febre 3 but both came 
 from him. 
 
 I alfo took notice of his Iron Cradles 
 or Hoops over his Beds, w^hich were re- 
 movable, and to be made higher and 
 lower, according to the height and na- 
 ture of the Floors they were defigned to 
 cover. This, me-thoughts, was far be- 
 yond all the Inventions of Wooden Co- 
 vers, and might with Sail-Cloths and 
 Mats well ferve for a fort of portable 
 Green Houfe, to the lefs tender Plants. 
 
 I faw Le Fchres Flower Garden May 9. 
 The Tulips were in their prime 5 indeed, 
 he had a very large and plentiful Col- 
 ledion. The Panachee or Strip't Tulips 
 were many^, and of great variety. He 
 
 obferved 
 
2 26 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 obferved to me, that from his large and 
 numerous Beds of felf-fiowerd Tulips, that 
 is, of one colour, as Red, Yellow, &€, 
 they expeded yearly fome Stript ones, 
 which if perfe^, that is, ftrip t in all the 
 fix Leaves, would but doubtfully continue, 
 and perhaps return to their former ftate the 
 next year ^ but if they laboured^ or did 
 not finifh the ftripings of all the fix 
 Leaves the firft year, there were better 
 hopes of their continuing in that ftate. 
 
 Though I had no mind to defcend into 
 the Stom Pits, which are like our Mines, 
 Well-fafhion, and the Stones wound up 
 with great Wheels, to husband the Soil 
 over them : Yet I went to Va^fre, 3 miles 
 from the Town, which is a ridge of Hills 
 that runs along to the Qbjervatoire. Here 
 the Qiiarries are open on the fide of the 
 Hill,as with us. In thofe I obferved 2 or 5 
 layers of Stone, 2 or 3 foot thick, moftly 
 made up of Shells, or Stoms in the fajloion 
 of Shells. Amongft thefe Shell-ftones the 
 moft remarkable for bignefs was a certain 
 fmooth and long Bnccimim, tapering with 
 very many fpires. I meafured one whofe 
 firrt fpire was 8 inches diameter, the full 
 length 1 could not fo well come at ^ yet 
 holding proportion with thofe of the 
 kind which lay flat, and which we could 
 fee in their full length, it muft have been 
 
 a 
 
A Journey to Paris. 2 
 
 a foot long at leaft. There is no Bucct^ 
 num in any of our Seas a quarter fo big* 
 Here are many of this Species. Alfo 
 other large Turbinated Stones^which come 
 near fome of the Wef -India Kinds of Mu- 
 fic Shells^ of which Genm yet there are 
 none in the European Seas. 
 
 Thefe Layers of Stone mixt with Shell- 
 figured bodies, are at certain diftances in 
 the Rock, and other Rocks void of Shells 
 interpofed. 
 
 Fanciful Men may think what they 
 pleafe of this matter 5 fure I am, until 
 the Hiftory of Nature, and more parti- 
 cularly that of Minerals and Foffils is 
 better lookt into, and more accurately 
 diftinguifht, all Reafoning is in vain. It 
 is to be obferved, where Men are moft in 
 the dark, there Impudence reigns moft, 
 as upon this Subjeft : They are not con- 
 tent fairly to diffent, but to infult every 
 body elfe. In like manner upon the Sub- 
 Jed of Mineral Waters 3 How many 
 Scriblers have there been, without any 
 knowledge of Foffils ? 
 
 I know not whether it be worth the not- 
 ing, but it fhews the Humour of the French^ 
 that I faw in fome Country Towns near 
 P^r^, the Church Wall near the top, 
 had a two foot broad Mourning Lift^ 
 which compafled the whole Church like a 
 
 2 Gu^dle, 
 
2 8 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Girdle, and on this was at certain di- 
 
 ftances, painted the Arms of the Lord of 
 the Mannor, who was dead* 
 
 I fhall conclude, what I have to fay 
 further, with the Air oi Park^ and the 
 State of Health and Phyfic there. 
 
 The Air of Park is drier than that of 
 England ^ aotwithftanding the greateft 
 part of the City is placed in a dirty miry 
 Level 5 The Muddy Banks of the River 
 Seine witnefs this ^ alfo the old Latm 
 Name of Paris^ Lutetia • but fome of 
 them are unwilling to derive it from Lu- 
 ttim%^ though there are feveral other 
 Towns in France^ formerly more confi- 
 derable than it, of that very Name 5 but 
 from the Greeks Original, as Tolon^ Toloufa^ 
 which in that Language fignifie Black 
 Dirt. We have an undoubted Experi- 
 ment of the different Temper of the Air 
 10 our Philofophk TrmfaBions 5 where it 
 is demonftrated, that there falls twice as 
 much Rain in England^ as at Paris 5 Re- 
 gifters of both having carefully been kept, 
 for fo many years^both here and in France. 
 
 From this quantity of Rain with us, 
 our Fields are much greener ^ and it was 
 a pleafing furprife to me at my return, 
 foiling op thef^iver of Thames^ tofeeour 
 
 green. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 2 
 
 reen Fields and Paftures on every fide 5 
 ut we pay dearly for it, in Agues and 
 Coughs, and Rheumatick Diftempers. 
 
 The Winter was very rude and fierce, 
 as was ever known in the Memory of 
 Man 5 The cold Winds very piercing 5 
 and the Common People walk the Streets 
 all in MoufFes, and Multitudes had little 
 Brafs Kettles of Smallcoal kindled, hang- 
 ing on their Arms 5 and yet you ftiouid 
 fcarce hear any one Cough. 
 
 I never faw a Mift at Faris in the 6 
 ' months I (laid there, but one 5 though a 
 very broad River runs through the middle 
 of the City, nor any very ft rong Winds 3 
 but this may be accidental, and the Tem- 
 per of fome one year by chance. 
 
 We were very fenfible by the 20th of 
 Februdry our Style, though the Nights 
 were cold, and the White Frofts great 
 in the Mornings, that the Sun at Noon 
 had a much ftronger force and heat, than 
 with us, at that time of the year, 
 
 Another Argument, of the Drynefs of 
 the Air at P^m, we had from the alterati- 
 on of Health 5 fuch as were thick Breath- 
 ed, and Cought and Spit much, foon re- 
 covered and the infenfible perfpiration 
 of the Skir^ was fo clear and free, that 
 the Kidneys had little to do 5 fo that it 
 was obferved by moft, that though wo 
 
 5 drank 
 
A Journey to Taris* 
 
 drank pretty freely of the thin Wines of 
 Champagne and Burgundy^ yet they never 
 broke our Oeep to get fhut of them ^ and 
 that very little palled that way in the 
 morning. 
 
 Laftly, a fign of the Drinefs and great 
 goodnefs of the Air of Faris is, the vaft 
 number of Iron Bars all over the City ^ 
 which yet are moftly intire, and the leaft 
 decayed with Ruft, I ever faw in any 
 place ^ whereas ours in London are all in 
 a few years all over rufty, and miferably 
 eaten. 
 
 ^oter. We were fufficiently alarmed at our 
 firft coming to Paris ^ with the unwhole- 
 fomenefs of the River Water,Sind cautioned 
 againft drinking it ^ and yet it was al- 
 moft impoffible to avoid the bad efFefts 
 of it, for within the month two thirds 
 of the Family fell into Fluxes, fome into 
 Dyfenteries, and fome very ill of it. 
 The French that come out of other re- 
 ftiote Countreys fuffer as well as the Stran- 
 gers. We were told boiling it was 
 ■ . " good Remedy to prevent its Griping Qua- 
 lity ^ but that is a meer Notion, for we 
 know Mineral Waters boiled have a 
 ilrotiger effed, and this quality can prO" 
 ceed from nothing lefs, ' 
 
 Thp 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 The Well Waters here are much worfe 
 than the River Waters, becaufe more 
 Mineral. But our fafety was in the 
 Water brought from the Mdfon desEaux^ 
 where the Aquedudt of Arcueil empties it 
 felf to ferve the great Palaces and City- 
 fountains. 
 
 The Difeafe of the Dyfentery being one Dyftmery. 
 of the mpft common in PmV, the moft 
 celebrated Drug for its cure is now the 
 Hypopecouam 5 though I never once made tijpopmw 
 ufe of it to any of our People, but«»^- 
 cured them all as foon, and as well with 
 our ufual Remedies. Indeed they have 
 great need of it here, for the poorer fort 
 of People, through ill Diet, this VVa- 
 ter, and Herbs, are very fubjedt to it 3 
 This Root is faid to cure it with as much 
 certainty, and as readily, as the Jefuits 
 Powder an Ague 5 Of this moft of the 
 Phyficians and Apothecaries agreed. 
 They give it in Powder from 10 grains 
 to 40, which is the largeft Dofe. It moft 
 commonly Vomits, and fometimes Purges, 
 but both gently. Tis fold here from 20 
 to 50 Crowns a Pound. They divide it 
 into 4 forts, according to its goodnefs. 
 
 Q_ 4 Ano- 
 
2^2 
 
 A Journey to Paris. 
 
 Another popular Difeafe here is the 
 The stone. St One :^ aiid there are Men well praftifed 
 in the Cutting for it- There are alfo 
 two Hofpitals, where great numbers are 
 ^ cut yearly, as La Charite^ and HoJiel-DieUy 
 in both of thefe there are Wired Ghefts 
 full of Stones cut from Human Bodies 5 
 and in theCheft of La Char it e is one, which 
 exceeds all belief 5 it was cut from a Monk, 
 who died in the very Operation ^ it is as 
 big as a Childs Head. It is but the Mo- 
 del or Patern of the Stone which is kept 
 in the Cheft 5 which has this Infcription 
 on it. 
 
 Figure gyojjenr de la perre^ p^fant 5 X 
 ounces^ qui font trok livres trots ounces^ qui 
 a ejie tiree dans pet Hojpital an mok de Juin 
 1690, que VoH conferve dans h convent 
 de la Charite^ 
 
 But that which I fhall here moft infift 
 upon is the ner^ vpoy^ praftifed by Pere 
 Jaqiies^ a Monk. About the 20th of 
 April he cut in the Hofiel-Dieu 10 in lefs 
 than an hours time : The 3d day after, 
 all were hearty and without pain but 
 one. 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 He cuts both by the grand .and little 
 "Appareil 5 in both he boldly thrufts in a 
 broad Lancet or Stilleto into the middle 
 of the Mufcle of the Thigh near the Ata»^ 
 till he pins the Catheter or Staff, oj: tJic 
 Stone betwixt his Fingers ^ then he wi- 
 dens the incifion of the Blader in pro- 
 piortidn to the Stone with a Silver Ovd 
 Hoop 5 if that will not do, he thrufts in 
 his 4 Fingers, and tears it wider 5 then 
 with the Duckf Bill he draws it out. 
 
 I fee him cut a fecond time in the 
 ftel-Dieu-^ and he performed it upon 9 
 Perfons in 5 quarters of an hour, very 
 dexteroufly. He feemed to venture at 
 all 5 and put me into fome diforder with 
 the cruelty of the Operation ^ and a 
 ftouter Englijhman than my felf. How- 
 ever I vifited them all in their Beds, and 
 found them more amazed, than in 
 pain. 
 
 Pere Jaquesait alfo his way in the other 
 Hofpital Let Charite^ much about the feme 
 time^ II at twice. Here Monfieur M^- 
 Jhal^ the beft of the Surgeons for this 
 Operation now in P^r^, harangued againft 
 him before the Governors, who coldly 
 anfwered, they would be determined by 
 the Event;, which way was beft. 
 
 Aiqae 
 
'A Journey to Vm£ 
 
 Atque hoc rat'wm Fsmnk Calculi omnium 
 ^fUime excidutOur nempe fialpel/o intrA vor 
 gindm uteri in veficam adoBo, 
 
 Of Aofe cut in La Charttz one died 5 
 and being difleded, it was found he had 
 his Blazer pierced in 4 or 5 places 5 alfo 
 the Mufculm Vfim fadly mangled 5 alfo 
 the left FeJicuU Semindks cut. 
 
 Notwithftanding this, if this Method 
 was well executed by a Skilful Hand^ it 
 might be of good ufe to Mankind. 
 
 This way of Cutting for the Stone, 
 puts me m mind of what I formerly 
 writ and publiftit in thQPhil.Traftfa&iom, 
 about Cutting above the Os Pubis^ in the 
 Fund of the Bladder. 
 
 Alfo of that Experiment of Cutting 
 for the Stone of an Alderman of Don- 
 cajier in the Glkteus Major, he was twice 
 cut in the fame place, and out-lived both. 
 I faw the firft Stone, which was very 
 large, and in fome meafure tranfparent, 
 Cryftal like. This Experiment is Printed 
 in Dr. Willies Scarborough Spaw, 14 years 
 ago at leaft, and is a fair hint for this 
 liew Method. \^ 
 
 Since 
 
i4 Journey to Paris. 235 
 
 Since my return I had a Letter from 
 Mn Frobie^ a very Learned and Induftri- 
 ous young Gentleman, who was with me 
 to fee the Operation, that part relating 
 to this Matter I fhall here tranfcribe. 
 Indeed, I mightily longed for an Account 
 of this Matter, the fuccefs of which I 
 came away too foon to learn any thing 
 for certain^ 
 
 Paris, Aug- 2. ^8. 
 
 I^Ere Jaque'j- Reputation mightily jlach^ns^ 
 out of Forty five that he cut at the Ho- 
 ftel-Dieu, but fixthen of them furvive 5 and 
 of Nineteen in the ChsLVito^ but eleven. He 
 has pra&:ifed at the Hojpitals at Lyons, but^ 
 'tis Jaidy with worfe fuccefs than at Paris* 
 / am fenfihle he has got abundance of Ene-' 
 mies^ which mak^s me very often quejiion^ 
 what I may hear faid of him. Dr. Fagon, 
 the Kings Phyfician^ told Dr. Turnfort, 
 when he went to prefent his Book^ to him^ that 
 he had cut Seven at Verfailles, and that fix 
 of them are alive^ and as well as if never 
 cut. The Perjon that died was Jo Dijiem- 
 pered^ that he was not expected to live^ and 
 'twas thought^ if he had not been cut^ he 
 kftd not lived fo long : The Surgeons have a 
 great mind to cry down the Many though they 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 fraBife hk Method. For Marfhal has finc^ 
 cut after Pere JaqueV Manner^ only with thk 
 Sference, that MarftialV Catheter aw <r<rzr- 
 mlated. Le Rue, the ficond Surgeon of the 
 Charity Hofpital cut after the old Manner^ 
 at the fame time Token Marftial cut Pere 
 JaqueV veay^ but had not fo good fnccefs as 
 Marfhal had x, for aU that Marflial cut are 
 dive and very reeU, whereas the ether lojl one 
 ertwo of his number bejides^ thofe that lived 
 were not fo foon cur d^ no, not by a month &r 
 fx weeks. Tlius far Mr. Pr(?^?V. 
 
 f«- The Pox here is the great BiilTnefs of 
 the Town ^ a Difeafe which in fome mea,- 
 fure hath contributed to the ruine of 
 Phyfick here, as in London, This Secret 
 Service hath introduced little Contempti- 
 ble Animals of all forts into Bufinefs, and 
 hath given them otcafion to infult Fa- 
 milies, after they had once the know- 
 ledge of thefe Misfortunes. And it is for 
 this reafon the Quacks here, as with us, 
 do thrive vaftly into great Riches beyond 
 any of the Phyficians, by treating pri- 
 vately thefe Calamities. 
 
 It was a pleafant Diverfion to me to 
 read upon the WaMs every where about 
 the Town, but more particularly in the 
 Fauxbourgh of St, Ger«/<«/«, the Quacks Bills 
 Printed in great Uncial Letters. 
 
'A Journey to PariSe 
 As, 
 
 Ik par I'ordre du Raj^ 
 
 Memede mfd/iMe commode pour Id geri- 
 Jon des malddks Jecretes fins garder h 
 ehambre. 
 
 Anotlier, 
 
 Vwr pjermijjion de Roj^ 
 
 Mdmkre tres aifee €^ tres jure pmr guerir 
 fins mcommodite^ fins que perfim m 
 appercoivey ks maUdks vemrknnes^ &c 
 
 Another, 
 
 P^i* privilege d$i Roj^ 
 
 UAntiDenerkn de medicin Indkn^ ponTtomz$ 
 ks Mdddks "ventrknms^ telles quelle^ 
 putjfent efire^ fins menu retmr^ fins 
 gudrder la chamhre. U efi tres comfmih 
 €^ h plm agre^bk de monde^ 
 
 Another^ 
 
 Remde dffure de Skur de la Brum prhUege 
 du Roj^ fins quon fiit contraint de 
 g^der h chambre^ &c. By 
 
2^2 A Journey to Vmsl 
 
 By thefe Bills it is evident, there is yet 
 a certain Modefty and Decorum left in 
 the Concealing this Difeafe, even a- 
 mongft the French 5 They would be 
 Cured fecretly, and as though nothing 
 were doing 5 which thofe Wretches high- 
 ly promife. But this is that Handle 
 which gives thofe mean People an occa- 
 fion to infult their Reputation, and injure 
 them in their Health for ever. 
 
 Every body here puts their helping 
 Hand, and meddles with the Cure of 
 this Difeafe, as Apothecaries, Barbers, 
 Women, and Monks ^ yet I did not find 
 by all the inquiry I could make, that 
 they had other Remedies than we. Nay, 
 there is fomethingpraftifed in the Cure of 
 this Diftemper in England, which they at 
 Paris know nothing of 5 but this old Verfe 
 forbids me to fay any thing further. 
 
 Artem pudere preloqul, quam fa^ites, 
 
 ^pttheca- The Apothecaries Shops are neat enough. 
 Tics Shops, if t-i^gy ^,£re but as well ftored with Me- 
 dicines ^ and fome are very finely adorn- 
 ed, and have an Air of greatnefs, as that 
 of Monfieur Geofferie, who has been 
 Provoji des Merchands, in the Rue Bitrte- 
 hur, where the Entry to the Baffe Cour is 
 a Port-cochier,vj\th Vafa's of Copper in the 
 Niches of the Windows 5 within are 
 
 Rocr 
 
A Journey to Paris* 23P 
 
 Rooms adorned with huge Vafa's and 
 Mortors of Brafs, as well for fight, as for 
 ufe» The Drugs and Compofitions are 
 kept in Cabinets difpofed round the 
 Room. Alfo Laboratories backwards in 
 great perfedion and neatnefs. I muft 
 needs commend this Gentleman for his 
 Civility towards me 5 and for his Care 
 in Educating his Son , who came over 
 with Count Tallard^ a moft Hopeful and 
 Learned Young Man 5 whom our Society 
 at Grejham-Colkdge^ at my Requeft, ho- 
 noured with admittii^g him Fellow, ac- 
 cording to his Deferts. 
 
 I had the opportunity of Converfing phjjicjam. 
 with many of the Phyficians in this Ci- 
 ty ^ who all agree in the low Condition 
 and Difefteem it was in, from the bound- 
 lefs Confidence and intruding of Quacks, 
 Women, and Monks. Monfieur d'Achin^ 
 the late chief Phyfician, has been ill 
 thought on for taking Money, and gi- 
 ving protection to thefe fort of Cattle 3 
 but the chief Phyfician now, Monfieur 
 Fagon^ is a Man of great Honour and 
 Learning, and very defirous to promote 
 the Art. 
 
 It is here as with us, fome pradtife out 
 of meer vanity, others to make a Penny 
 any way to get Bread. The caufe of all 
 
 this 
 
24® ^ JottYfiey to Paris. 
 
 diis is, I think, the great Confidence 
 Pfeople have of their own Skill, an ar- 
 ri^ance without thinking. To pafs ^ 
 Judgment upon Cures, and the good and 
 cml practice of Phyfick, without doul3t 
 Is one of the niceft things, even to Men 
 ctf the Faculty 3 but a Jury, that is^ 
 Ihe very ordinary Men in England, are 
 fbiered now to undertake the Queftion 5 
 wlien I may truly fay, that I have ever 
 fcHind, no difparagement to them, the 
 moft Learned Men of the Nation, the 
 moft miftaken in thefe Matters 5 and can 
 it be otherwife in*fo Conjedtural an Art, 
 when we our felves fcarce know, when 
 we have done ill or well. 
 
 Another caufe of the low Efteem of 
 Pbyfick here, are the forry Fees that are 
 given to Phyficians ^ which makes that 
 Science not worth the Application and 
 Study. The King indeed is very liberal, 
 as in all things elfe, in his Penfions to 
 Ms chief Phyfician, and gives his Chil- 
 dren good Preferments. 
 
 Alfa Mr» Bnrdelot, who is alfo well 
 Penfioned, and lodged at Ferfail/es, Phy- 
 fician to the Dutchels of Burgundy , a 
 Learned Man 5 he is perfeftly well Skilfd 
 in the Hiftory of Phyfick 5 and we rtiay 
 ihortly (as he told me) expedt from him, • 
 another Supplement to Vatidef' Linden, of 
 
 many 
 
A Journey to Paris. 
 
 many tlioufand Volumes, which have 
 efcapeci that Catalogue, and are not ac- 
 counted for. 
 
 Monfieur, and the Dauphin, and all 
 the Princes of the Blood, have their Do- 
 meftick Phyficians 5 fome of whom I 
 knew, as Monfieur Arlot, Monfieur Mi- 
 mt^ to the Prince of Contyy of my ac- 
 quaintance formerly at Montpelkr. The 
 Two Morim very Learned Men 3 alfo 
 Monfieur Grimodct^ &c. 
 
 Others have the practice of Nunneries 
 and Convents, which gives them Bread ^ 
 others have Pariflies 5 and fome fuch 
 Shifts they make 5 but all is wrong with 
 them , and very little incouragement 
 given to the Faculty. 
 
 April 14. the Prince of Conty Cent his 
 Gentleman and Coach at mid-night to 
 fetch me to his Son, and to bring with 
 me the late King Charles s Drops to give 
 him. This was a very hafty call. I told 
 the Meflenger, I was the Prince's very 
 humble Servant 5 but for any Drops or 
 other Medicines I had brought nothing 
 at all with me^ and had ufed only fuch 
 as I found in their Shops, for all the oc- 
 cafions I had had to ufe any. I defired 
 he would tell him, that I was ready to 
 Confult with his Phyficians upon his Sons 
 SicknefS;^ if he pkafed to command me, 
 
 R but 
 
242 . ^ Journey /o Paris. 
 
 but for coming upon any other Account 
 I defired to be excufed ^ but I heard no 
 more of the Matter, and the young Pnnce 
 died. By this it is evident, there is as 
 falfe a Notion of Phyfick in this Coun- 
 try, as with us 5 and that it is here alfo 
 thought a Knack, more than a Science or 
 Method 5 and little Chimifal Toys, the 
 Bijous of Quacks, are mightily in requeft. 
 This Herefie hath poflelTed the moft think- 
 ing, as well as the ignorant part of Man- 
 kind ; and for this we are beholden to 
 the late vain Expofitors of Nature, who 
 have mightily inveighed againft and un^ 
 dervalued the ancient Greeks Phyficians, 
 in whofe Works only this Art is to be 
 learnt, unlefs fingle Perfons could live 
 over as many Ages, as thofe Wife Men 
 did. 
 
 Men are apt to prefcribe to their Phy- 
 fician, before he can poffibly tell, what 
 he fhall in his Judgment think fitting to 
 give 'tis well if this was in Negatives 
 only 5 but they are prejudiced by the 
 impertinence of the Age, and our Men^ 
 who ought to Converfe with the Patient 
 and his Relations with Prognofticks only, 
 which are the honour of Phyfick, and not 
 play the Philofopher by fanciful and pre- 
 carious Interpretations of the Nature of 
 Difeafes and Medicines, to gain a fort of 
 
 Credit 
 
A Journey to Paris, 
 
 Credit with the Ignorant 5 and fuch cer- 
 tainly are all thofe that have riot ftudied 
 Phyfick thoroughly, and in earneft. 
 
 Thofe Drops were defired of me by 
 pther Perfons of Quality, as the Princefs 
 dEJfinoji^ the Duchefs of Bmllon^ Mon- 
 fieur Sefac^ &c. and having bethought 
 my felf my Mafter, the late King 
 Charles^ had communicated them to me, 
 and fhewed me very obligingly the Pro- 
 cefs himfelf, by carrying me alone with 
 him into his Elaboratory at Whitehall^ 
 while it was Diftilling. Alfo Mr. Che- 
 "vim another time fhewed me the Mate- 
 rials for the Drops in his Appartment 
 newly brought in, in great quantity, 
 that is. Raw Silk. I caufed the Drops to 
 be made here. Alfo I put Dr. Tumfort 
 upon making of them 5 which he did in 
 perfedtion, by Diftilluig the fineft Raw 
 Silk he could get. For my part I was fur- 
 prifed at the Experiment often repeated, 
 having never tried it before. One Pound 
 of Raw Silk yielded an incredible quanti- 
 ty of Volatii Salt, and in proportion the 
 fineft Spirit I ever tafted and that which 
 recommends it is. that it is when reftified, 
 of a far more pleafant fmell,than that which 
 comes from Sal Armoniackor Hartfliorne^ 
 and the Salt refined and cohobated with 
 any well fcented Chimical Oil, makes the 
 
 R 2 Kings 
 
A Journey to Pans. 
 
 Kings Salt, as its us'd to be called. This 
 my Lord Ambaflador gave me leave to 
 prefent in his Name ^ and the Dodor 
 now fupplies thofe which want. Silk, 
 indeed is nothing elfe, but a dry Jelly 
 from the Infeft Kind, and therefore very 
 Cordial and Stomachick no doubt. The 
 Arabians were wife, and knowing in the 
 Materia Medica^ to have put it in their 
 Alk§rmes. 
 
 This muft be faid for the Honour of 
 this King, that he has ever given great 
 Encouragements for ufeful Difcoveries in 
 all Kinds, and particularly in Phyfick. 
 Tis well known he bought the Secret of 
 the Jefuits Powder, and made it pub- 
 lick 5 as he lately did that of the Hj/po- 
 cocana. 
 
 To Conclude, it was my good Fortune 
 here to have a Bundle of Original Pa- 
 pers of Sir Theodore Mayerne^ and his 
 Friends, who Correfponded with him, 
 prefented me by the Reverend Dr. Wickar^ 
 Dean of Winchejler^ who Marrying his 
 Kinfwoman found them amongft other 
 Writings of Law Matters. I have not 
 yet had the leifure to perufe them, but 
 thofe who know the Worth of that great 
 Man, will defire they may be made pub- 
 lick 3 which if they are, they fhall come 
 
 forth 
 
A Journey io V^m. 
 
 forfh intire, and not difguifed, as fomc 
 of his other Papers have been, to the 
 great detriment of Phyfick 5 and I think 
 it is the firft Example of ^this Nature, 
 that Pofthumous Papers were ever abre- 
 viated, and made what they never were, 
 before an intire and full publication. 
 
 F I ^ I S. 
 
BOOKS Printed for facob 
 Tonfon at the fudges Head 
 near the Inner-Temple-Gate 
 in Fleetftreet^ and at Grajs- 
 Inn-Gdte in Grays-Inn-Lane. 
 
 THE Poetical Works of Mr. John Mil- 
 ton, containing^ Paradife Loft, Pa- 
 radife Regain d, Sampfon Agoniftes, and 
 his Poems on fever al Occdfions^ together with 
 Explanatory Notes on each Booh^ of the Pa- 
 radife Loft, and a Table never before Printed. 
 
 The Works of that Famous Engliih Poet 
 Mr.Edmond Spencer,^/^.. The Fairy Queen, 
 The Shepherds Calendar, TheHift. of /re- 
 land^ &C. with an Account of his Life^ and 
 feveral Pieces of his never Printed till the 
 lear 1679. 
 
 OvidV Love Epijlles Tranflated into Eng- 
 lifh by the E. ^/Mulgrave, Sir Carr Scrope, 
 Mr. Dry den, and feveral Eminent Hands j; 
 adorn d with feveral Copper Cuts. 
 
 The Odes J Satyrs^ and Epijiles of Horace, 
 Tranflated into Englifh by Mr. Creech of 
 Oxford. 
 
 Mifcelany 
 
A Catalogue 0/ Book§^ 
 
 Mifcddny Foems^ containing a nevo Trau^ 
 /lation ofWhgiYsEclogucS^and feveral parts of 
 ^//^neidV, Ovid'i^ Love Elegies. fiver al Odes 
 cf Horace, and Parts of Lucretius, witb 
 variety of Original Poems written by the mojl 
 Eminent Hands ^ and Puhlijhed by Mr. Dry- 
 den. 
 
 Dryden J Works in 4 Volumes in Sluarto. 
 Syphilis 5 Or, a Poetical Hijiory of th 
 French Difeafi 5 written in Latin by Fraca- 
 fcorius, and Engliflied by Mr. Tate. 
 
 Poems upon feveral Occafions^ with a Voj-- 
 age to the IJland of Love : Written by 
 Mrs. Behn. 
 
 A Critical Hijipry of the Old Tejiamenf^ 
 in 3 Books^ written in French, md Ena^ 
 liftiediyH-D. 
 
 Contemplations upon theKemarkablePaffagef 
 in the Life of the Holy JefuSy by Jofeph 
 Hall late Lord Bijbop of Exeter. 
 
 The Royal CommcraurUj uf Peru, in 
 Parts y adorn d with fiver al Sculptures ^ by 
 Sir Paul Rycaut Kt. 
 
 Love Letters from (t Nobleman to hh 
 Sijier^ in 3 Volumes. 
 
 The Works of Virgil, containing hk Pa^ 
 florals :^GeoYg\Q\JiS and JEndidsTranJlated into 
 Englifti Verfe by Mr. Dryden, adorn d with 
 a Hundred Sculptures. The Second Edition. 
 
 The Satyrs of Decimus Junius Juvenalis 
 Tranjlated Englifli/^rTe^y Air. Dryden, 
 
 and 
 
A Catalogue of Books. 
 
 and fever d other Eminent Hands ^ Together 
 with the Satyrs of Aulus Perfius Flaccus, 
 made Englifh by Mr. Dryden, with ExpU^ 
 natory Notes at the end of each Satyr • To 
 n^hich if prefixed a Difcourfe concerning the 
 Original and Vrogrefs of Satire. Dedicated 
 to the Right Honourable Charles Earl of 
 Dorfet, &c. The Second Edition^ adorn d 
 mth Sculptures. 
 
 Davenant X Effay upon Ways and Means 
 for Supplying the Wars. 
 
 The Old Batchelor^ Double Dealer^ Love 
 for Love^ and Mourning Bride ^ all ^ by 
 Mr. Congreve. 
 
 Amendments to Mr. Collier j Falfe and 
 Imperfe^ Citations from the Old Batchelor^ 
 Double Dealer, Love for Love, Mourn* 
 ing Bride, hy the Author of thofi Plays. 
 
 Five Books of Manelius in finglifti by 
 M^.Creech- 
 
 Seneca\r Mnr^h hj, Sir Kogci LXftmnge. 
 The Seventh Editiorr. 
 
 TullyV Offices in Englifti by Sir% UE^ 
 ftrange* 
 
 Temples Wor^. Suckling x Poems. 
 CowleyV Tf(?r4r. 
 
 EachardV Roman Hijiory^ in Two Parts. 
 Charron of Wifdom^ in Two Parts. 
 
/