![»!» ! ! ; ! - [ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/handbooktocathed03king GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM THE SOUTH-EAST HANDBOOK TO THE CATHEDRALS OF ENGLAND. U&hxn §xbhxoxt. BRISTOL. — GLOUCESTER. — HEREFORD. WORCESTER. — LICHFIELD. a&tti) Illustration*. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. J. H. and Jas. PARKER, OXFORD. 1864. PREFACE. ^HE five cathedrals — Bristol, Gloucester, Here- ford, Worcester, and Lichfield — contained in the present division of the Handbook, have all undergone extensive restoration and repair during the last few years. Acknowledgment of much kind assistance and revision is due to Mr. Pope, archi- tect to the Dean and Chapter at Bristol ; to Mr. Waller, at Gloucester ; to Mr. Perkins, at Wor- cester ; and lastly, to Mr. G. G. Scott, E.A., under whom the cathedrals of Hereford and Lichfield have been restored to their ancient beauty. The published essays and reports of Professor Willis have been freely used throughout the volume. Such obligations have been duly re- cognised in the notes ; but it is proper to refer in an especial manner to the great assistance which has been derived from the " Architec- tural History of Worcester Cathedral,'' printed in the twentieth volume of the Archaeological Journal. Mr. Godwin's account of Bristol Ca- thedral, in the same volume, and Mr. Bloxam's paper on the " Sepulchral Monuments in Wor- cester Cathedral/' to be found in the "Gentle- man's Magazine" for October, 1862, should also be mentioned here, and with a similar acknow- ledgment. EICHAED JOHN KING. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. WESTERN CATHEDRALS. Glantttttt. PAGE Frontispiece — View from the South-east, taken from the roof of a building . . .7 Title-page — The "Prentice's" Bracket in the South Transept . ... 22 Plan 2 Ditto of Crypt and Triforium . . .4 I. West End of Nave 9 II. Confessional in South Transept . . .23 III. " Reliquary" in North Transept . . .24 IV. The Choir 27 Y. Three Misereres in the Choir . . .29 The first of these, representing two wrestlers, is very curious, and may be compared with a similar subject in Norwich Cathedral. The second is a tiger on the back of a horse. And the third represents a fight between a Christian knight and a Pagan. VI. Monument of Edward II. ... 34 The iron railing, which is of late character, is removed, in order to shew the tomb more clearly. VII. Tomb of Robert, Duke of Normandy . .37 VIII. Cloisters; the South Walk, shewing the small Closets or " Carols" . . . .46 IX. The Lavatory in the Cloisters . . .47 X. The Chapter-house, the Norman portion . . 48 vi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Frontispiece — General View from North-east 67 Title-page — Cloisters and " Ladies' Arbour" 107 Plan ...... 62 I. Arches of Nave ..... 69 II. The Altar-screen, or Reredos 79 III. Bay of North Transept . 82 IV. Pedestal of the Shrine of Bishop Cantilupe 85 V. Monument of Bishop d'Acquablanca, from the North Transept . ... 89 VI. Bishop Stanbury's Chapel 90 VII. Eastern Bay of the Lady-chapel 95 Vlll. Part oi Lady-chapel, with the Screen of Bishop Audley's Chantry .... 98 IX. Coffin-slab in the North Transept 93 X. Books in the Library .... 103 XI. Ancient Map ..... ib. §xutol Frontispiece — North-east View, from St. Augus- tine's Green ..... 141 Title-page — Tomb of Abbot Newland 152 Plan ...... 136 I. The Choir 146 II. Vaulting of South Aisle .... 154 III. Effigy of Thomas Lord Berkeley . 160 IV. The Chapter-house 1G3 V. Coffin-slab in the Canons' Vestry . 164 VI. South side of Gateway, College Green 166 LIST OF ILLUSTRATION S . vii WLbxmbUx. PAGE Frontispiece — General View from the North-east . 187 Title-page — Tomb of King John . . . 208 Plan 182 I. Part of Choir and Lady-chapel . . . 204 II. Chantry of Prince Arthur . . . .212 III. Chapter-house 226 IV. The Crypt 228 Frontispiece— The West Front . . .270 Title-page— The West Door . . ,273 Plan 262 I. The Nave 273 II. The Choir, before the restoration . . . 286 III. The Choir, after the restoration . . . ib. Ill * The Chapter-house . . .305 THE " PRENTICE'S" BRACKET REFERENCES. A South Porch. B B B Nave and Aisles. C. Organ-screen. D Choir. E Presbytery. F South Transept. G Chapel used HHH Choir- K K Apsidal Chapels. L Lady-chapel. M North Transept, N Chapel. 0 0 0 0 Cloisters. P Chapter-house. Q Abbot's or Lesser Cloister. R /S^e, or Passage to Cloister. 1 -4&oo£ Seabroke's Chantry. 2 Prydges' Effigy. 3 Monument of Aid. Blackleach. 4 Entrance to Crypt. 5 -E#.<7?/ of Abbot Foliot. 6 Sedilia. 7 o/ Osric. 8 Monument of Edward II. 9 J.ooo£ Parker's Chantry. 10 -Ej^y o/ Robert Courtehose. 11 Reliquary. 12 /Stf Willis. GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. PLATE V. MISERERES IN THE CHOIR. <%h\ $a»I%. Stall*. 29 a monk of the house. In 1460 Tully became Bishop of St. David's, and died in 1481. The light arches which cross the main arches of the tower, north and south, and which look like " pieces of carpentry in stone," do not in reality support the vault, which rests securely on the wall behind. They were not, however, intended to deceive. " Unless some rest- ing-place was provided, the builders must have allowed the capital to hang down to a level with the others without anything to support it, or altered the arch above, and thus have disturbed the curvature of the vault. The flying-arch was contrived to get rid of these defects. All this appears to be characteristic of a school of masons who were extremely skilful, and glad of an opportunity of shewing their skill; as a modern engineer likes to carry his railway through a chain of mountains when he has a plain valley be- fore him r ." The stalls ranged below the tower are Perpendicular, (those north the work of Abbot Staunton, those south of Abbot Horton,) with rich projecting canopies. The misereres [Plate V.] below are of the usual character, but are so fixed that they can only be seen with diffi- culty. Behind the first stall on the north side is a frag- ment of Early English work, probably of the date of Elias de Lideford, who erected stalls in the choir, which were removed by Abbots Staunton and Horton. The open screen-work which covers the Norman arches of the presbytery, is carried upwards into the * Willis. 30 ffilonzt&tzx <£a%bral lofty clerestory windows, so as to cover the entire bay with a uniform panelling. Light vaulting- shafts run up between, and carry the lierne roof. The termination of the Norman choir was originally circular, as at Norwich ; but in order to insert the great east window, the two last bays, eastward, were entirely removed, and the walls, from this point, now slope outwards north and south. This part of the work is, in Frouces- ter's Chronicle, assigned to Abbot Hoetok, (1351 — 1377). The tiling of the sacrarium, which displays the arms and devices of Abbot Paekee, (1515 — 1534,) is no doubt of his time ; as are the sedilia on the south side, which indicate the coming change in their ara- besque ornaments. The frieze, a knotted stick passed through a riband, should be noticed. On the canopy above are three figures, — one with a drum or tam- bourine, the others with trumpets. XI. The great east window, which terminates the choir, is the largest in England, and is, owing to the ingenious construction of this part of the choir, wider than the side walls which contain it : it is filled with what is, in many respects, the finest stained glass of the period in this country. The window itself, in its gene- ral design and tracery, corresponds with the panelling of the choir and with the windows of the clerestory, and is part of Abbot Horton's work. The tracery-heads and cusps on the inside do not appear without, as usual, since the glass (probably to save expense) is fitted into a square-headed panel, sunk in the back of the window. A peculiar effect is produced by the roof of the Lady- 31 chapel beyond, which rises against the lower part of the window, (from which it is separated by the ante-chapel) ; the glass above is consequently always in brighter light than that below. The stone- work of the whole window has been repaired (1862) at a cost of £1,400 ; and £600 has been expended on the re-leading of the glass by Hughes 8 , under the very careful supervision of Mr. Winston, one of the best authorities on the subject. The window, like the rest of the choir-work, has de- cided Perpendicular features ; but the glass " is in all respects thoroughly Decorated in character; As a general rule, it is true that a change in the style of architecture has always preceded, by some years, the corresponding change in the style of painted glass. . . . " The two first tiers of lights from the ground are filled with coloured borders and ornamented white quarries; a shield of arms in a panel is inserted in each light, and a small ornamented roundel placed at some distance beneath it. The three next tiers of lights throughout the window are filled with figures and canopies, and, in the central part of the window, another tier likewise, the spires of this row of canopies running into the tier of lights above. This arrange- ment, as might be expected, imparts a grand pyra- s The restoration of this window is the result of the untiring energy and able administration of the Chapter revenues by the Treasurer, Dr. Jeune, Master of Pembroke College, Oxford, and Canon of Gloucester. A new Chapter school has been built, ex- tensive repairs and restorations made in the cathedral, and the ground round it thrown open, by special funds derived from the same source. 32 ffiloxtmltx dufyibml midical character to the whole design. All the tracery lights of the window are filled with ornamented white quarries, and enriched with small roundels of orna- ment inserted here and there. . . . " The colouring of the lower lights — containing figures and canopies — is arranged on a principle not uncommon in early Perpendicular glass. The figures are almost entirely white, having yellow stained hair, and borders to their robes : the architectural work of the canopies is wholly composed of white and yellow stained glass. The positive colouring is confined to the spire back- grounds of the canopies, and the tapestry which lines the interior of the niche ; and it is carried in uniform streaks, or columns, down the window. Thus the spire grounds and tapestries of the central column — which is two lights broad, all the other columns being only of the width of one light — are coloured red ; those of the next column on each side the centre one are coloured blue; those of the next red, and so on. The large proportion of white used in the most coloured parts prevents any violent transition, from the figure and canopy part to the quarry part of the window. . . . " The full effect of the Gloucester window, no doubt, depends not only on the simplicity of the composition, the largeness of its parts, and the breadth of its colour- ing, but also on the excellence of the material of which the window is composed. . . . "The side windows of the choir - clerestory retain enough of their original glazing — which is precisely of the same date as that of the east window — to enable us Cjjoir. l^ammmtB. 33 to perceive that their lower tier of lights was filled with figures and canopies, and their upper tier and tracery- lights with borders and quarry patterns, having small roundels of ornament inserted of the same character as the pattern-work in the east window : a corroborative proof, if any were necessary, of the originality of the arrangement of the glass in the upper part of the east window, with which the arrangement of the glass in the side windows so perfectly harmonizes*." The date assigned by Mr. Winston to the east window, and to those of the clerestory, is between 1345 and 1350. XII. On the south side of the presbytery is a pro- jecting bracket of Perpendicular date, on which is placed the earlier effigy of an abbot — perhaps that of Heney Poliot, (died 1243). It is too shattered, how- ever, to be of much interest. On the north side of the presbytery, beginning from the east, are : — (1.) A high tomb with efiigy of Oseic, the Mercian "kinglet," who is said to have founded the first re- ligious establishment at Gloucester. (See § i., and Pt. n.) On the east end of the monument is the inscription, — " Osricus Rex primus fundator hujus mo- nasterii — 681." The tomb and efiigy are said to have been erected during the abbacy of "William Paekee, (1515 — 1539,) whose arms, together with those of the abbey, appear on it. The efiigy is crowned and sceptred, t G. Winston, Stained Glass of Gloucester, &c, in the Bristol volume of the Archaeological Institute. (For some further im- portant remarks on this window, see Note at the end of Part I.) VOL. in. d 34 Ghmtteitx Cailj*bral. and carries the model of a church in the left hand. The ermine collar of the robe is unusual. (2.) The superb tomb, with effigy of Edward II. [Plate VI.] It has been truly said that the whole of the choir, as it at present exists, is a memorial of the murdered King ; since the alterations in it were com- menced after his interment here, and their cost was mainly defrayed from the rich offerings made at his tomb. The tomb itself, however, is not unworthy a greater king than Edward II. It was on the 21st of September, 1327, that King Edward was murdered in Berkeley Castle. The monas- teries of Bristol, Kingswood, and Malmesbury refused to receive his body for interment, fearing the dis- pleasure of the Queen and her party ; but Abbot Thokey of Gloucester, more far-sighted, brought it from Berkeley in his own carriage, and caused it to be solemnly in- terred beneath the existing monument. This was erected at the cost of the King's son, Edward III., and became at once an important place of pilgrimage. Offerings made here were thought to avert the Divine anger from the nation, and it is said that if all the oblations presented at the tomb during the reign of Edward III. had been expended on the church, it might have been built anew. Edward III. himself, when in danger of ship- wreck, vowed an offering of a golden ship at his father's tomb, which was duly presented, but afterwards re- deemed, at the request of the Abbot and Convent, for £100. The Black Prince offered a golden crucifix, containing a portion of the holy Cross ; the Queen of GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL, PLATE VI. MONUMENT OE EDWARD II. itoimttunt of faobmxo II. 35 Scots, a necklace with a ruby; and Queen Philippa, a heart and ear of gold. Such offerings were no doubt hung about the tomb, in the usual manner. The monument itself consists of an altar-tomb with effigy, canopied by a mass of exquisite tabernacle-work, which fills up the entire arch. The great Norman piers on either side have been cut away, to give room for the lower part of the tomb, which has canopied niches for figures no longer existing, and on the side toward the choir-aisle (at which the oblations were made) a bracket for light. The effigy is of alabaster, and the King's features were possibly chiselled from a waxen mask, taken after death. The head is very fine, and should be compared with those of Edward III. at Westminster, and of the Black Prince at Canterbury. In all these Plantagenet effigies there is a striking resemblance. The arrangement of the hair and beard should be noticed. At the head are angels, and a lion at the feet, finely rendered. On the side of the tomb (toward the aisle) is a shield, with an inscription re- cording the restoration of the monument by the society of Oriel College, Oxford, of which Edward II. was the founder, at the instance of his Almoner, Adam de Brome : — " Hoc fundatoris sui monumentum, situ ve- tustatis deformatum, instaurari curaverunt Praepos. et Soc. Coll. Oriel, Oxon. a.d. 1737—1789—1798." The capitals of the great piers are painted with the de- vice of Richard II., the white hart, chained and collared. Hence a tradition has arisen that the body of the King was drawn by stags from Berkeley to Gloucester. 36 (felonztBtzx €a%bral. (3.) The chantry, with effigy, of Abbot Paeker, (the last Abbot of Gloucester,), 1515 — 1539. The chantry has been converted into a pew. The screen enclosing it has a good frieze of vine-leaves and grapes; and the niches for statues at the angles should be noticed. The effigy, of alabaster, has been much cut and injured. The Abbot wears the chasuble and jewelled mitre, (Gloucester ranked as the eleventh of the twenty-seven mitred English abbeys) ; the top of his staif is broken. There are small figures in the portion left. The base of the monument has shields with the Abbot's arms, and others bearing the emblems of our Lord's Passion. XIII. The north choir-aisle is entered from the choir through a Perpendicular doorway in the bay below Abbot Parker's chantry. The aisle itself is Norman, of the same date as the choir, but has the windows filled with Perpendicular tracery. The low enormous piers of the choir are here well seen, and the monuments already described should all be noticed from this side. At the north-east angle of the aisle is one of the apsidal chapels, three of which terminated the Norman choir. The chapel forms a pentagon, the place of the altar being, very unusually, north-east. The whole chapel was altered as a memorial of Abbot Botelee, (1437 — 1450). It is enclosed by a Perpendicular screen, and the windows are filled with Perpendicular tracery. Behind the altar is a very rich Perpendicular reredos, having one central and eight smaller niches. Some of the small figures of the Apostles in the canopies above ®%g at %abztt of gormattbg. 37 are perfect ; and there are also many shields of bene- factors to the monastery. The whole is richly painted. On the step of the altar is the effigy of Eobeet Cottrtehose, [Plate VII.,] eldest son of the Conqueror, who died in 1134, at the castle of Cardiff, where he had been a prisoner twenty-six years. He had been a great benefactor to the monastery at Gloucester, and was interred here before the high altar. His monument continued entire until 1641, when it was broken to pieces by Cromwell's soldiers. The pieces were bought by Sir Humphrey Tracy, of Stan way, who kept them until after the Restoration, when they were put together, and replaced in the cathedral. The monument now consists of a high tomb or chest (on wheels) , of Irish oak, on which is laid the effigy, also of oak. The shields on the tomb, and the figure itself, were partly re-coloured, and the former very improperly, during the present century. The tomb has a border of leafage, of late Decorated character. The effigy itself may be of the same period (since the material is the same), and may perhaps have been copied from an earlier figure. It is cross-legged, and has a surcoat and a coronet. Whatever may be its real date, it cannot possibly be older than Henry II. The Norman pier remains at the north-east angle of the chapel, with the addition of a Perpendicular base, and a panelled ornament cut into it. Between the reredos and the east wall is a Perpendicular arch, which assists in carrying the east window, and is so contrived as to relieve the slight Perpendicular pier adjoining of 38 GhmtttAtx CaifjebraL the weight of the superstructure, which it was not strong enough to bear. The construction of all this east end of the choir, which is very ingenious, is best seen in the triforium, (§ xvi.) XIY. The termination of the Norman choir, as has already been mentioned, was polygonal, with a central and two side chapels. This original arrangement still remains in the crypt, (§ xvn.) ; but the central chapel at the east end of the choir, which had been undis- turbed by the erection of the great east window, was altered about a century later, when the Lady -chapel was commenced. The walls of the ante-chapel, by which this is entered, are in fact those of the Norman apsidal chapel, pierced on either side by a Perpendicular window, and having a rich panelled Heme vault, crossed by a double row of pendants. The upper story of the ante-chapel was the Norman chapel of the triforium. This portion is separated from the Lady-chapel by a screen of open-work, through which is seen the vaulted roof, and three windows at the west and on either side. The west window looks across the low gallery inter- vening between it and the east window of the choir, (see § v.) The arch carrying the screen of the upper chapel, and forming the eastern termination of the lower roof, is bordered in front by a series of foiled panels, having shields in their centres. All this work, together with the Lady-chapel itself, is due to Abbot Hakley, (1457 — 1472,) and his suc- cessor, Abbot Faeley, (1472 — 1498). It was the last great work of the monastery, and worthily closes the Jatrg-tfcapd. 39 fine series of Perpendicular structures, (the re-casing of the choir, the cloisters, the tower, and the Lady-chapel,) which rank among the most interesting and important in England. The Lady-chapel consists of four bays, with a square- sided eastern end, and small square-sided chapels of two stories, projecting from the third bay on either side. Each bay is nearly filled by a lofty Perpendicular window of four divisions. The lights of the two upper tiers are simply foiled. Those below are richer, with ornamented headings. In the wall below the window is a plain arcade of foiled arches, with a quatrefoil above. The narrow bit of wall which remains in each bay is panelled with tracery corresponding to the di- visions of the windows ; and in the three principal tiers has brackets and rich canopies for figures. The brackets are angels bearing scrolls. Vaulting-shafts run up between these panels; and above is a superb lierne roof, — one of the best and purest examples of such a roof in the Perpendicular period. The bosses are en- tirely of leafage, and are very numerous. Traces of colour remain on the walls, and on some of the canopies ; and the headings of the window lights retain their original stained glass. The effect of the side chapels is unusually pictur- esque. Each is of two stories ; the roof of the upper on a level with the upper series of wall panellings on either side. A sharply -pointed arch, with pierced panellings above and an open parapet below, forms the front of the upper chapels ; the lower are closed 40 §hutmitx CE%braL in front by a rich screen- work, corresponding to the window divisions. The east end of the Lady-chapel is entirely filled by a Perpendicular window of three divisions, the design of which resembles those at the sides. The glass in this window is original, and very good, although not equal to that in the great east window of the choir. The extent to which white and yellow are employed in it should be noticed. Below the window was a rich mass of tabernacle- work, now effectually smashed. Over the altar were three main niches, with pedestals for figures. There are fragments of brackets and canopies in the smaller divisions; and the whole shews remains of colour, gilding, and enamelling. The designs at the back of the principal niches should be especially noticed. Much of the original tiling remains on this part of the floor. The tiles bear inscriptions, " Due Jhu miserere ;" and "Ave Maria gra. pie." In the centre is a device of roses with leaves. Below the window on the south side are three sedilia, with graceful pendent canopies. The backs are panelled. The side chapel on the north has a groined roof, in which the cusps of the foils and other portions are pierced with minute circular hollows, adding much to the elaborate effect. The panelling of the west wall has been filled by the upper part of the monument of Bishop Godfked, (died 1604). Below is an altar-tomb with effigy. The upper chapel, or oratory, is ap- proached by a staircase on the west side, opening from the bay below; it has a lierne roof, with bosses of leafage. The south chapel resembles the north ; and contains a flat altar-tomb for Thomas Pitzwilliams, (died 1579 : it was repaired by his descendants in 1648). The east window is covered by the hideous monument of Bishop Nicholson, (died 1671). The upper chapel resembles that opposite. These chapels were appa- rently the chantries of the two abbots who built the Lady-chapel; the upper stories, in which there is no trace of an altar, serving as oratories. On the north side of the Lady-chapel is a monument with effigy for Elizabeth Williams, daughter of Bishop Miles Smith of Gloucester, (died 1622). Below, again, is a full-length statue of Sir John Powell, (died 1713) \ XY. The south choir-aisle resembles that opposite. The south-east chapel opening from it retains its Nor- man work more completely than the north-east. The Norman arches and windows remain; the latter filled with Perpendicular tracery. As in the chapel opposite, the altar did not front due east. A door on the platform above the steps descending to the transept opens to what was originally the east chapel of the transept itself. The arrangement re- u It has been asserted that this Sir John Powell was one of the judges who tried the seven bishops. This is an error. There were three Judge Powells living at the same time; two "Sir Johns," and one " Sir Thomas." Sir John who tried the bishops was of Caerroarthenshire; the Sir John buried in this cathedral was of a Gloucestershire family. See " Gloucestershire Achieve- ments" by the Rev. S. Lysons, 2nd edit., note, pp. 42, 43. 42 §lsmmtzx Ca%bral. sembled that of the south-east chapel. The arch of entrance from the transept (transitional Norman, and pointed) remains, walled up. Under the three eastern windows is a rich Perpendicular reredos, with three niches for figures. XVI. The triforium of the choir is reached by the staircases at the angles of the transepts, and through the open arcade at their north and south sides. The triforium originally extended quite round the choir, the whole width of the choir-aisles, opening into chapels corresponding with those below. With the exception of the east end — between the south-east and -north-east chapels — it remains entire ; of late Norman character, with some alterations made during the Decorated period. In the chapel above the south transept the Norman windows have been replaced by Decorated, enriched with the ball-flower. The double piscina in the small window, and the brackets for figures, with rich canopies, are Decorated, and deserve notice. Looking toward the transept, the manner in which it was recased is here readily seen. The circular Norman arch of the tri- forium encloses a pointed arch, with shafts at the angles. This arch is crossed by the ribs of the screen-work. In this part of the triforium is preserved an ancient painting on panel, representing the Last Judgment. It dates apparently from the end of the fifteenth cen- tury, but is of no very great interest. The massive piers of the triforium above the choir- aisle remain unaltered. The arches are crossed with Perpendicular tracery. The south-east chapel opens friforatm. W9L$z$txm% <$alkrg. 43 above the corresponding chapel in the aisle : it is plain Norman, with late windows inserted. The manner in which the east end of the choir was re-constructed, to admit of the insertion of the great east window, and to allow of its being wider than the original walls of the choir, is best seen from this point. The eastern piers of the choir, and the portion of the triforium above, were entirely removed ; but the Norman eastern chapel (corresponding to those south-east and north-east) was allowed to remain entire, both in the triforium and below. The last bay of the choir was extended laterally, so as to admit the light freely from the great window ; and as access to the eastern chapel was cut off by the removal of the triforium, it became necessary to construct the passage at the back of the window, known as the " Whispering Gallery." Here three flying buttresses should be remarked, which spring from the outer walls of the cathedral at the bend of the apse, and meet in a point behind the wall of the choir. These really sustain the weight above the triforium, so that the slight Perpendicular pier below (§ xin.) is not called upon to do more than half the duty. In the Whispering Gallery much Norman stone-work has been re-used — a practice of common occurrence throughout the cathedral. Sound is transmitted through this gal- lery, which is 75 ft. long, 3 ft. wide, and 8 ft. high, in a remarkable manner. The lowest whisper, or the slightest scratch with a pin, is distinctly heard from one end to the other. The chapel into which it opens was part of the Norman chapel, altered on the building 44 §knmkx CatjjxbraL of the Lady-chapel, into which it looks. In it is a stone altar— perhaps that of the Norman chapel. Chapel, Triforium. The north-east Norman chapel beyond the gallery has a Decorated window ; and in that adjoining the north transept is a very beautiful Decorated double piscina. The foliated ornament round the inner arch of the windows here and in the chapel opposite should be noticed. Taking into account the many chapels in this triforium^ and in the crypt, it may be reckoned that there were nearly twice as many altars in this church as were usually to be found in churches of even the same size and importance. XVII. The crypt, which is entered from the south Crgpt. 45 transept, is one of five English eastern crypts founded before 1085 ; (the others are Canterbury, Winchester, Crypt. Rochester, and "Worcester). After that date (with one exception, the Early English crypt at Hereford — see that cathedral) they ceased to be constructed, except in continuation of former ones. The crypt of Gloucester extends under the whole of the choir, with its aisles and chapels ; and the original form of the eastern end is here at once evident. , "The outer walls of the crypt are about 10 ft. thick, and the aisle floor is on an average 8 ft. deep below the level of the soil on the outside. The centre part is divided by two rows of small columns, from which 46 §kmmtzt €ut\izbxul spring groined arches carding the floor of the choir. The bases and capitals of these are much out of level, falling considerably from west to east, and from north to south It is evident that great alterations have from time to time been made in this part of the build- ing : the large semicircular columns against the walls, though of great antiquity, are not part of the original structure, but are casings, in which are enclosed the former and smaller piers ; and the ribs springing from their capitals are built under, and with a view to sup- port the groins V Much soil has been cleared from the crypt, and the original floors of the chapels have been laid open. These are composed of a rough concrete. There is a step into each chapel, and the floors rise gradually toward the east end. All contain remains of altars and piscinas, generally of later date than the crypt itself. The chapel adjoining the north transept was groined and decorated in the latter part of the thirteenth century. The windows of the crypt have been opened and glazed. XVIII. The cloisters, [Plate VIII.,] which are en- tered from the nave, rank among the finest examples in the kingdom. They were commenced by Abbot Houtok, (1351 — 1377); and completed by Abbot Frotjcesteb, (1381—1412). The view looking down either of the walks is very fine, mainly owing to the richness of the groined roof, which is the earliest existing example of the fan- vault. * F. S. Waller. GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. PLATE VIII. THE CLOISTERS. THE " CAROLS " IN THE SOUTH WALK. GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. PLATE IX. THE LAVATORY IN THE CLOISTERS. Cloisters. 47 This style of vaulting is entirely peculiar to England ; and Professor Willis has suggested that the school of masons who were employed in this cathedral may have originated it y. The wall sides of the cloisters are pa- nelled ; and the windows, divided by a transom, have rich Perpendicular tracery. The lights above the tran- som were glazed. " The construction of the outer walls is peculiar as to the arrangement of the buttresses, and the projecting shelf of stone connected with the tran- soms of the windows, which was evidently meant as a protection from the weather for the lower half of the windows, — which was not glazed z ." Each walk is divided into ten compartments. In the south walk are the ' Carols' — places for writing or study, twenty in number, formed by a series of arches, running below the main windows. In each ' carol' is a small and graceful window, of two lights. (Similar stalls or ' carols' existed at Durham.) The very fine view at the angle of the south and west walks should espe- cially be noticed. In the north walk are the lavatories, [Plate IX.,] projecting into the cloister garth : these are very perfect. Under the windows is a long trough or basin into which the water flowed. The roof is groined. Opposite, in the wall of the cloister, is the recess for towels, or manutergia. In the east walk are some memorial windows of stained glass ; and it is proposed to fill the whole of the cloisters with glass, forming, when completed, a History of our Lord. "This scheme was originated r Gent. Mag., Sept. 1860. 2 F. S. Waller. 48 (felmtunht Ca%braL with a view to check the disfigurement of the cathe- dral by monuments of any other description." XIX. The chapter-house opens from the east walk through a Norman arch enriched with zigzag ornament. The chapter-house itself (72 ft. by 34) is a long par- allelogram of four bays, three of which are Norman, and the most easterly a Perpendicular addition. This part is finely groined, and has a large Perpendicular window. Bound the Norman portion. [Plate X.] is an arcade of four arches in each bay. The manner in which the shafts carrying the vaulting -ribs are set back in the wall, between the shafts of the arcade, should be noticed. The plain vault has large ribs, 15 ft. apart. Rude inscriptions and shields are traceable on the wall-arcade. The floor has been covered with encaustic tiles, copied accurately from the old work. Between the chapter-house and the north transept is the short passage called the " Abbot's Cloister and above it the Chapter Library, — probably the original library of the monastery. This is a long room, of Per- pendicular character, with a roof of dark oak, a row of small windows on the north side, and a large Perpen- dicular window east. The room has been well and thoroughly restored, and the books properly arranged. The most important manuscripts are — a transcript of Abbot Proucester's Lives of the Abbots of Gloucester, from the foundation of the monastery to 1381 ; (the original MS. of this work — unless it be that recently found under the Bolls Chapel — is no longer known to exist. It is said to have disappeared from the Chapter GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL. PLATE X. THE CHAPTER-HOUSE, (THE NORMAN PORTION). €xtztxax. 49 Library at the beginning of the present century. This transcript was made by Dr. Hall, Master of Pembroke College, Oxford. There are others in the library of Queen's College, Oxford, and in the British Museum). — A Register of Documents relating to the Abbey, also made by Abbot Proucester ; and another Register, com- piled by the last abbot, Parker, or Malvern. XX. Returning to the exterior of the church, the west front (Abbot Morwent's work, 1420 — 1437, see §§ it.,t.) may first be visited. This is not very rich or striking, but the pierced buttresses of the window, and the parapets of open-work below and above, should be noticed. The composition of Abbot Thokey's south aisle, with its massive buttresses and deeply recessed windows, is unusually fine. On the upper part of the buttresses is a series of figures, finely designed, and well de- serving attention. At the transept commences the Perpendicular transformation. The turrets at the angles are Norman, with interlacing arcades above ; the cappings are later. The gables are filled with a series of round-headed arches, rising one above another; and traces of the original Norman window- openings remain in the walls. The parapets and win- dows shew the later alterations. Buttresses of the central tower pass across the east and west sides of the transept. The polygonal shape of the radiating chapels — very unusual in Norman architecture — should here be noticed from the exterior ; as well as the manner in which the Lady-chapel is connected with the choir. At the north- VOL. III. E 50 §MmUx Cu%bral. west angle of this chapel is a fragment of the original Norman work which belonged to the central apse, and was turned to account in Abbot Horton's rebuilding of the east end. The light buttresses which support the great east window are pierced so as not to obstruct the light. The central gable of the open parapet above the window retains a figure of our Lord on the cross. The last bay of the Lady-chapel has an open passage below it, which was rendered necessary at the time of the building of the chapel, from the fact that the boundary wall of the monastery passed north and south in a line with the extreme eastern buttresses. (The marks of this wall may still be seen on the buttresses.) The archway is picturesque in itself. A very striking view of the north-east portion of the cathedral opens beyond it ; full of varied and intricate outlines formed by the projecting chapels and the walls of the cloister and chapter-house, and crowned by the great mass of the central tower with its deep shadows and its fret- work of grey stone. The tower (see § in.) was (as appears from the in- scription within, § x.) the work of Abbot Seaeeoke, (1450 — 1457,) and was, said one of the monks to Leland (temp. Hen. VIII.), " a pharos to all parts of the hills." The singular beauty of its pinnacles of open-work has already been noticed. A passage called the Abbot's Cloister separates the chapter-house from the north transept. The cloister itself, however, extended beyond this passage eastward. The inner walls alone remain. The eastern wall has 51 entirely disappeared; and beyond it are some trans- itional Norman arches, which belonged to the infirmary of the monastery. NOTE, (p. 33). Since the foregoing pages were in type, Mr. Winston has arrived at some very important and interesting conclusions relating to the east window of the choir. The general design of the figure-work is the Enthronement of the Blessed Virgin. The original arms in the window were those of warriors who served in the Cressy campaign, and who were connected with the county of Gloucester by their landed possessions; and there is ground for a surmise that the donor of the glass was Lord Bradeston, Governor of Gloucester Castle. The con- ception of the work may be attributed to 1347 or 1348, and it was completed not later than 1350. The saving of this noble relic from the destructive effects of a c restoration' is due to the energetic remonstrances of the Archaeological Institute; in the Journal of which Society the results of Mr. Winston's investigations, briefly stated above, will soon, it is to be hoped, appear. They will be eagerly welcomed by all who are interested in the subject. GLOUCESTEB CATHEDEAL. PART II. Ptstotg of % ^zt t foitfj ^Iiort ^iatkzB of % principal §h§op. T7ERY ancient traditions, which were accepted as facts * . throughout the Middle Ages, connected Gloucester with the first introduction of Christianity to Roman Britain. It was said to have been the chief city of Lucius, the British King who, about the year 160, sent messengers to Rome with a request that Pope Eleutherius would despatch Christian teachers into Britain, who might teach Lucius him- self and his people. This was accordingly done. Lucius was baptized at Gloucester, and after estabhshing Christianity throughout the island, died at Gloucester in the year 201, and was buried in a church which he had built on the site of the existing cathedral 3 . What amount of truth may be involved in this story is altogether uncertain. The first who mentions the conversion of Lucius is Bede\ His death is placed at Gloucester by Matthew Paris, and by others of the later chroniclers ; and his legend (for it is little more) a Other traditions connect Lucius with Kent, and make Chilham Castle, near Canterbury, his principal stronghold. Be- sides Gloucester, he is the traditional founder of Canterbury and Winchester Cathedrals, and of many churches. Another legend asserts that he resigned his crown, and after preaching Chris- tianity throughout France and Germany, became Bishop of Coire in the Grisons, where he died, and where his relics are still shewn. b Hist. Eccl., lib. i. cap. 4. has been illustrated in a window of stained glass, lately inserted in the nave of the Cathedral, (see Pt. I. § vi.) Gloucester, the British Cair glou, the Roman Glevum, had been walled during the Roman period, and was one of the strong "ceasters" of Mercia. In 681 it was granted by Ethelred of Mercia to Osric, as "underking" or viceroy of the district. Osric is said to have completed the establish- ment of a convent of nuns, which had been commenced in Gloucester by Wulphere, brother of Ethelred; and Arch- bishop Theodore of Canterbury dedicated it in honour of St. Peter. Osric was accordingly regarded as the founder of the monastery, which continued under the rule of an abbess until a.d. 767, between which year and 821 it lay desolate, and the nuns were dispersed. In a.d. 821, Beorn- ulph of Mercia restored the convent, and established in it a body of secular canons. They remained until 1022, when Canute introduced Benedictines in their place. Prom that tune until the dissolution the abbey increased steadily in wealth and importance. The reception of the body of Edward II. brought vast sums to its treasury; and under Abbot Proucester it was raised to the dignity of a mitred abbey, by Pope Urban YI. Its income at the Dissolution was, according to Speed, £1,550. The first Parliament after the Conquest was assembled by Henry I. in tins abbey, and the young King, Henry III., (then but nine years old,) was crowned in the church, October 28, 1216. Richard II. held a Parliament in the great hall of the abbey, in November, 1378. The most important Abbots were — [a.d. 1072 — 1104.] Seklo, who laid the foundation of the present church, dedicated in the year 1100. [a.d. 1113 — 1130.] William, in whose time (1122) Serb's church was greatly injured by fire, (see Pt. I.) [a.d. 1139—1148.] Gilbert Poliot, who in the latter year became Bishop of Hereford, and in 1163 was translated to London. He was the well-known opponent of Becket, [a.d. 1306 — 1329.] 54 John Thokey, who built the south aisle of the nave, (see Pt. I. § vii.,) and received the body of Edward II., (Pt. I. § xii.) [a.d. 1329 — 1337.] John Wygemore, who com- menced the great change in the architecture of the church by his reconstruction of the south transept, (Pt. I. § vm.) [a.d. 1337 — 1351.] Adam de Staunton ; and [a.d. 1351— 1377] Thomas de Horton ; who carried forward the work in the choir and north transept. (Pt. I. § § ix., x.) [a.d. 1381 — 1412.] "Walter Eroucester, the historian of the Abbey, (see Pt. I. § xviii.,) who built much of the cloister and who procured the grant of the mitre from Urban YI. [a.d. 1420 — 1437.] John Morwent, who rebuilt part of west end of the church, (Pt. I. § vn.) [a.d. 1450—1457.] Thomas Seabroke, who built the tower, [a.d. 1457 — 1472.] Richard Hanley ; and [a.d. 1472—1498] William Parley, who built the Lady-chapel, [a.d. 1515 — 1539.] William Malverne, or Parker, the last abbot, who sub- scribed to the King's supremacy in 1534, and died soon after the Dissolution. Robert of Gloucester, whose rhyming "Chronicle of Englonde," is important, both historically and as an example of " middle English," was a monk of this abbey, during the reigns of Henry III. and John. His Chronicle was edited by Hearne. Until 1541 the whole of Gloucestershire lay within the diocese of Worcester. In that year the see of Glou- cester was erected, and the abbey church, which was re- dedicated to the "Holy and Individed Trinity," became its cathedral. The first bishop was — [a.d. 1541 — 1549.] John Wakeman, who had been Abbot of Tewkesbury, and one of Henry the Eighth's chaplains. He was a person of considerable learning, and had revised the translation of the Book of Revelation, in Cranmer's Bible. [a.d. 1551 — Eeb. 9, 1555.] John Hooper had been edu- cated at Merton College, Oxford, and afterwards became 55 a monk at Cleeves, in Somerset, his native county. He returned to Oxford, however, where he soon embraced the reformed doctrines, and was consequently obliged to leave the University in 1539. After many wanderings in Ireland, in Erance, and in Switzerland, Hooper returned to England on the accession of Edward VI. ; and in 1549 became one of the accusers of Bishop Bonner, who was deprived in that year. Having with much difficulty overcome his own scruples as to the lawfulness of wearing episcopal robes c , Hooper, who had been appohited to the see of Gloucester by the influence of the Earl of Warwick, was consecrated at Lambeth by Archbishop Cranmer. In the following year (1552) Bishop Hooper surrendered his see to the Crown. Bishop Heath of Worcester was deprived at the same time. Gloucestershire was at first converted into an archdeaconry, dependent on Worcester; but the two sees were after- wards (Dec. 1552) united, and bestowed on Hooper. The bishops were to be entitled of "Gloucester and Wor- cester," and were to reside one year in each city, alter- nately. This arrangement only continued until the death of Edward VI. After the accession of Mary, Hooper was summoned to London, (August 1553,) and was for some time confined in the Fleet prison; his see was declared void, and after an examination before Bishop Gardiner and others, he was condemned to be burnt as a heretic. The sentence was accordingly carried out at Gloucester, Eeb. 9, 1555. A monument has lately been erected on the scene of his death. a.d. 1554 — 1558.] James Brookes, "a zealous papist, 5 ' succeeded, but to the see of Gloucester only. On his death the see remained vacant for three years. a.d. 1562—1579.] Richard Cheyney held the see of e See the whole discussion in Collier's Church History, Pt. II. bk. iv. 56 (SdlovctznUx Catljebral. Bristol in commendam. On his death, the see remained vacant until [a.d. 1581 — 1598,] John Bullingham was appointed to it. Until 1589 he held Bristol in commendam. [a.d. 1598 — 1604.] Godfrey Goldsbrough held the see of Worcester in commendam. [a.d. 1605, translated to London 1607.] Thomas Ravis, Dean of Christ Church, Oxford. He was a prelate of some learning, and was the translator of part of the New Testa- ment in James the First's Bible. [a.d. 1607, translated to Worcester 1610.] Henry Parry, Dean of Chester. James I. said of him that "he never heard a better or more eloquent preacher." [a.d. 1611 — 1612.] Giles Thompson, Dean of Windsor, died without having ever visited his new diocese. [a.d. 1612 — 1624.] Miles Smith, a prelate of great learning, translator of the whole of the Prophets for James the First's Bible, for which also he wrote the Preface, — " as a comely gate to a glorious city, which remains under his own hand in the "University Library in Oxford d ." He is called by Sir Robert Atkyns (History of Gloucestershire) a "stiff Calvinist, and a great favourer of the Puritans." He was buried in the Lady-chapel of the cathedral, " under a plain stone, without any inscription." [a.d. 1625, suspended 1640, died 1656.] Godfrey Goodman, Dean of Rochester. Bishop Goodman was strongly sus- pected of an inclination to Romanism : a curious entry in a volume now in the Chapter Library at Gloucester proves that that suspicion was far from being without foundation ; and Fuller asserts that he " died a professed Romanist, as appeared by his will e ." In 1640 he was suspended by Archbishop Laud, for refusing to subscribe the Canons, and was committed for some time to the Gate House ; " where," says Fuller, " he got by his restraint what he could never d Fuller's Worthies — Herefordshire. e Worthies — Denbighshire. ^hahavc to %baIL 57 have got by his liberty, namely, of one repnted Popish to become for a short time popular, as the only confessor suffering for not subscribing the Canons f ." He afterwards subscribed, and was restored, but soon had to bear his full share of the troubles during the time of the Commonwealth. He died in London, 1656, and was buried in St. Margaret's Church, Westminster. [a.d. 1661—1672.] William Nicolson was appointed to the see on the Restoration. [a.d. 1672—1681.] John Pritchett. [a.d. 1681, deprived 1691.] Robert Prampton had been Dean of Gloucester since 1673. He was one of the Non- juring bishops, and retired, on his deprivation, to the living of Standish, in Gloucestershire, which he had held with the bishopric. He died in 1708, and was buried in the chancel of the church at Standish. [a.d. 1691 — 1714.] Edward Powder was the son of a Presbyterian who had been intruded, during the Common- wealth, into the living of Westerleigh, near Bristol. Powler himself conformed after the Uestoration, and was raised to the see of Gloucester on the deprivation of Bishop Pramp- ton. He belonged to the school of " Latitudhiarian divines," then in special favour, and published many books which are now of little value. Bishop Powler died at Chelsea, Aug. 26, 1714, and was buried at Hendon, in Middlesex, in which church there is a monument to his memory. [a.d. 1715, translated to Salisbury 1721.] Richard Willis, Dean of Lincoln. Prom Salisbury Bishop Willis was trans- lated to Winchester, in 1725. [a.d. 1721, translated to Rochester 1731.] Joseph Wilcocks. Bishop Wilcocks held the deanery of Westminster with the see of Rochester. The western towers of Westminster A.bbey were built during his rule. [a.d. 1731 — 1733.] Elias Sydall, translated to Gloucester f Church Hist., bk. xi. 58 from St. David's. With Gloucester he held the deanery of Canterbury. [a.d. 1735—1752.] Martin Benson. In 1741 Bishop Benson re-paved the choir of the cathedral, and added pinnacles to the Lady-chapel. [a.d 1652, translated to Worcester 1759.] James Johnson. In 1774 he was killed by a fall from his horse, at Bath. [a.d. 1760 — 1779.] William Warburton, whose name is better known than that of any other prelate who has filled the see ; and who was not the least remarkable among the men of letters of the eighteenth century. Warburton was the eldest son of an attorney at Newark-upon-Trent, and was born there, Dec. 24, 1691. He was educated at Oakham, in Rutlandshire, and was intended for his father's profession, which he followed for a short time. He left it for the Church, however, and was in Orders in 1728, when his patron, Sir Robert Sutton, gave him the rectory of Burnt Broughton, in Lincolnshire. Here he remained, for some years, and wrote here the first part of his "Divine Legation of Moses," which procured him an introduction to the Prince of Wales, who made him one of his chaplains. In 1746 he was chosen Preacher at Lincoln's Inn, and in 1757 became Dean of Bristol. In 1760 he was raised to the see of Gloucester, and died at the palace there, aged 81, June 7, 1779. Bishop Warburton was the close friend and companion of Pope, who derived much assistance from his criticism, and whose works he edited. His own most important works are "The Divine Legation of Moses," and "Julian," a discourse concerning the earthquake and fiery eruption which defeated the Emperor's attempt to rebuild the temple at Jerusalem. The entire fist of his works is a long one, and his literary life belongs too completely to the literary history of the century to be further no- ticed here. "He was a man," writes Dr. Johnson, "of vigorous faculties, a mind fervid and vehement, supplied gisfrops mnxbnxton to §zfyrtl 59 by incessant and unlimited enquiry, with wonderful extent and variety of knowledge, which yet had not oppressed his imagination, nor clouded his perspicacity. To every work he brought a memory full fraught, together with a fancy fertile of original combinations; and at once exerted the powers of the scholar, the reasoner, and the wit. But his knowledge was too multifarious to be always exact, and his pursuits were too eager to be always cautious. His abilities gave him a haughty consequence, which he dis- dained to conceal or mollify ; and his impatience of opposi- tion disposed him to treat his adversaries with such con- temptuous superiority as made his readers commonly his enemies, and excited against the advocate the wishes of some who favoured the cause. He seems to have adopted the Romau Emperor's determination, 'oderint dummetuant;' he used no allurements of gentle language, but wished to compel rather than persuade." All that modern readers can desire to know of Bishop Warburton, will be found in his Life by the Rev. J. S. Watson. London, 1863. He was buried in the nave of Ins cathedral ; (Pt. I. § vi.) [a.d. 1779, translated to Ely 1781.] James Yorke, translated to Gloucester from St. David's. He was the youngest son of Lord Chancellor Hardwicke. [a.d. 1781, translated to St. Asaph 1789.] Samuel Hallipax ; had been successively Professor of Arabic and Regius Pro- fessor of Civil Law in the University of Cambridge. [a.d. 1789, translated to Bath and Wells 1802.] Richard Beadon. [a.d. 1802, translated to Hereford 1815.] George Isa&c Huntingeord, Warden of Winchester College. [a.d. 1.815, translated to Lichfield 1824.] Henry Ryder, brother of the Earl of Harrowby. [a.d. 1824, translated to Exeter, and thence to Bangor, 1830.] Christopher Bethell. 60 [a.d. 1830 — 1856.] James Henry Monk. In the year 1836 the diocese of Bristol was united to that of Gloucester. The bishops of Gloucester and Bristol, after Bishop Monk, have been [a.d. 1856, translated to Durham 1861.] Charles Baring, [a.d. 1861, translated to York 1862.] William Thomson, [a.d. 1863.] Charles J. Ellicott. THE CLOISTERS, WITH THE LADIES' ARBOUR. ■f * * ' mi ♦ • mb # b • He j £ if * F 0 i P HI * * f| R - — LH2 M 2ii. A North Torch. B Nave. C JVwi*. D West Front. [The outline shews tlu extent of the Norman nave befort the fall of the western tower.) E E Nave-aisles. F Central Tower. G Choir. H North Transept. I North Choir-aisle. K North-east Transept. L P" estibule of Lady-chapel. M Lady-chapel. N South-east. Transept. O South Choir-aisle. P P Rooms used as Vestries. Q South Transept. P R Cloister. S £i£e 0/ Chapter-house. PEFEPENCES. T Vicars'' Cloister. U Pore/;, rmd Staircase to Crypt. V fflte of Norman Chapel. 1 0/ Sir Richard Pembridgc. 2 Door into Cloister. 3 Choir -screen. 4 T?//?,?;/ of Bishop Stanbery. 5 Pedestal of the Cantilupe Shrme. 6 To;»Z> of Bishop d' A cquablanca. 7 Z>oor to Chapter Library. 8 7?/s/i.o/j Stanbery's Chantry. 9 Tomb of Bishop Sit-in field. 10 J?#y/// of Dean Bercw. 11 »/ « A"///'///;; 1 0/ i?o/»m family. 12 7?///V/;/ of Joanna de Bohun. 13 Audley Chapel. 14 Monument of Bishop Mayew. 15 of Sir Alexander Benton. GROUND-PLAN, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. Scale, 100 ft. to 1 in. HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PAKT I. I. The very interesting cathedral of Hereford, which represents an episcopal see existing, it is possible, before the arrival of St. Augustine, (see Pt. II.,) has suffered much from the hand of time, and more perhaps from so-called restoration. On Easter Monday, 1786, the western tower (a later erection than the Norman nave) fell, carrying with it the west front, and greatly in- juring the first bay of the nave. The architect Wyatt was then at work on Salisbury Cathedral; and the restoration of Hereford was unhappily placed in his hands. With "Wyatt, restoration meant destruction. Between the years 1788 and 1797 he expended a sum of £20,000 on this cathedral; shortening the nave by one entire bay ; destroying the Norman triforium and clerestory, which he replaced by others of his own de- vice; and constructing the present west front, which it is to be hoped will not be permitted to exist much longer. In 1841, at the request of the late Bishop Musgrave, a report on the actual condition of the cathedral was drawn up by Professor Willis ; from which it appeared that the piers of the central tower 64 fmforfc Ca%teal. were in a condition of much clanger, and that the eastern gable of the Lady-chapel would inevitably fall unless preventive measures were at once taken. Ac- cordingly, these and other repairs and " restorations" were effected between 1841 and 1852, at a cost of £27,000. The architect employed was Mr. L. N. Cot- tingham ; and the then Dean Meeewethee's own super- intendence — whose zeal for the restoration of the build- ing cannot be mentioned with too great respect — was unremitting until his death in 1850. Mr. Cottingham was not so completely destructive as Wyatt had been, but he rebuilt rather than restored, and allowed his masons to re-work ancient sculptures. Since the year 1858 the final restoration of Hereford Cathedral has been in the hands of Mr. G. G. Scott, and it need hardly be said that the work has been of a very dif- ferent character. "Where reconstruction has been neces- sary, every stone has been preserved, and, if possible, replaced. Whitewash and other defects have been re- moved with a sort of wire comb, which effectually cleans the stone, but does not remove ancient tool marks ; and the sculpture and foliage consequently re- main uninjured. These last works, completed in the year 1863, (when, on the 30th of June, the cathedral was solemnly re-opened,) effectually set forth the ori- ginal beauty of the building, which ranks among the most interesting cathedrals in England. The extent and nature of the different restorations will be pointed out as we proceed. It is no doubt to be regretted that so much rebuilding should have been piatorg* 65 necessary ; but this has been partly owing to original defects of construction, and partly to the nature of the stone, which was taken, apparently without much care in selection, from quarries in the old red sandstone, near the city. This stone is so much weather-worn in parts as to resemble the face of a sea cliff. Throughout Wyatt's rebuilding and all the restorations, the new stone has been brought from the Caplar quarries near Eawley ; from Lugwardine ; and from some quarries nearer Hereford ; also in the old red sandstone, but yielding blocks of a much harder and more durable character. II. The Saxon Bishop Ethelstan- (1012—1056) built a church from the foundations ; which shortly after the accession of his successor, Leofgar, (1056,) was burnt together with the greater part of the city, by the Welsh king Gryffyth. The first Norman bishop, Robert ee Losinga, (1079 — 1096,) who found his ca- thedral in ruins, began to rebuild it, taking for his model the church of Aachen, or Aix la Chapelle, — the work of Charlemagne a . This building was so far com- pleted as to be dedicated (in the names of the Blessed Virgin and of Ethelbert King of East Anglia, see § x. and Pt. II.) in 1110, during the episcopate of Rein- helm, (1107—1115). The Norman portions of the existing cathedral (the piers of the nave, the choir as high as the clerestory, and the south transept,) belong to Bishop Robert's cathedral. With the exception of a William of Malmesbury. No work of this early period now remains at Aix. VOL. III. E 66 f mkxb Ca%braL its first foundation, however, and of the walls of the nave-aisles, "it is much to he regretted that the period of erection of no one part of this cathedral has been recorded b ;" and we are left to assign the various dates from the character of the architecture alone. They are probably as follows : — Norman, 1079 — 1115. Piers of nave, choir as high as clerestory, and south transept, (which has had Perpendicu- lar alterations). Early 'English, circ. 1190. Vestibule of Lady-chapel. Early English, circ. 1220. Lady-chapel. Early English, circ. 1260 ? Clerestory and vaulting of choir. Transitional, horn Early English to Decorated, 1282—1287. North transept. Geometrical, (Early Decorated,) 1287 — 1320. Eastern tran- sept. Upper part of central tower. Late Decorated, 1360 — 1364. Outer walls and windows of nave-aisles. Perpendicular, 1492 — 1502. Bishop Audley's chantry. 1516 — 1535. The north porch. It thus appears that (besides the Norman work) Hereford Cathedral is principally rich in the architec- ture of the Early English and Geometrical periods. The Norman portions are curious and important. The Early English Lady-chapel is an excellent example ; but the most remarkable part of the building is un- questionably the north transept. Bishop Cantilupe, who died in 1282, (and was canonized in 1320,) was buried in the Lady-chapel, which was the first addition b Report of a Survey of the Dilapidated Portions of Hereford Cathedral, in the year 1841. By Professor Willis. Hereford, 1842. 67 to the Norman church. The north transept (into which the relics of the "bishop were removed in 1287) was to all appearance built expressly for the reception of the Cantilupe shrine; and the further changes and addi- tions during the early Decorated period may safely he assigned to the increase of riches and consequence which the possession of this shrine brought to the cathedral. In the same manner, at Gloucester (see that Cathedral) the possession of the remains of Edward II. was the cause of the entire alteration of the abbey church. III. Hereford Cathedral is open on the north side, and a good general view may be obtained from the Close, [Frontispiece,"] through which it is approached. On the south side the bishop's palace and the college of the vicars choral fill the space between it and the river Wye. East- ward the cathedral was closely pressed on by the out- works of the castle, anciently one of the strongest on the "Welsh marches, but of which only the foundations now remain. The Norman cathedral, built, as has been said, in imitation of that of Aachen, terminated eastward in a triple apse. (Compare Norwich, the most perfect ex- ample of a Norman ground-plan now existing.) The central apse was destroyed, in all probability, on the formation of the Lady-chapel ; and the side apses, at a somewhat later period, were converted into the eastern transept, as it now appears. This double transept (pos- sibly suggested by that at Worcester, which is a cen- tury earlier ; see that Cathedral) combines, with Bishop Booth's large projecting porch, in producing a degree of intricacy in the general outline, the effect of which 68 frnforb Ca%bral. is not lessened by the various alterations and "restora- tions, which, however necessary, render it difficult to distinguish between the new work and the old. IV. The cathedral is entered, on the north side, through an elaborate Perpendicular porch, completed in 1530 by Bishop Booth. It is of two stages. The lower is formed by three wide, open arches, at the outer angles of which are octagonal buttress-turrets, capped by very picturesque lanterns. The parvise chamber, forming the second stage, is lighted by three large Perpendicular windows, with rich tracery. This porch projects beyond an inner and smaller one, of the Decorated period, to which the doorway opening to the church (the mouldings of which should be noticed) belongs. The doors themselves are modern, and are covered with very good iron-work, designed by Mr. Cottingham, jun., and executed by Messrs. Potter of London. The hinges alone cost £140. Y. On entering the nave, the visitor should pass at once to the west end, where he will obtain the best general view. The great piers are Norman, and part of the original church. The triforium and clerestory and the vaulting of the roof are Wyatt's work, (1788 — 1797,) as is the western wall with its doorway. The nave-aisles belong to the Decorated period. Wyatt, it must be remembered, shortened the original nave by one entire bay. The eye is at once struck by the mas- sive grandeur of the great Norman piers and arches, and by the unusual darkness of the choir. Beyond the lofty circular arches of the central tower, and the superb HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE I. ARCHES OF NAY r & Safe*. 69 modern screen on its eastern side, is seen the eastern wall of the choir, pierced below with a wide circular arch, receding in many orders, and. above by three broad lancet lights. The lower arch is divided by a central pillar, from which spring two pointed arches, the spandrel between which is sculptured from a design of Cottingham's. Beyond, again, is seen the east wall of the Lady-chapel, with its enriched lancets, and foli- ated ornaments above them. The effect of these three receding distances, with their varying light and shade, is unusually fine, and is not a little increased by the solemnity of the darkened choir. This darkness results partly from the heavy Norman architecture of the choir itself, and partly from the lofty transepts, which abut on it on either side. The nave and choir are of the same width (73^ ft., including aisles; actual breadth of vaulting to nave and choir 31^ ft.) and height (70 ft.) The nave [Plate L] now consists of seven bays. The massive circular piers have double half-shafts set against their north and south fronts. (The greater part of these are restorations, the original shafts havingbeencut away. ) The bases are plain. The capitals of piers and shafts are rich and varied, especially those of the four eastern- most piers, which have some very rich knot- work and foliage. The main arches recede in three orders, and are much enriched with the billet and other mouldings. The Norman work throughout the cathedral, when com- pared with that of the great buildings of the same age in the eastern counties, (Ely, Peterborough, or Norwich,) 70 f mfafe Ca%bral. displays a richer and more involved class of orna- ment ; such as reaches its highest development in the elaborate doorways of Kilpeck and Shobdon Churches, both in Herefordshire. The triforium and clerestory, both of which are "Wyatt's work, need not detain us. They are imitated from the Early English of Salisbury ; and to make way for them, Wyatt destroyed the original Norman work, of which only a small portion had been injured by the fall of the tower 0 . The vaulting- shafts run up in groups of three, between each bay. The shafts them- selves are restorations of the originals, much of which had been cut away before the fall of the tower ; the corbels, below the capitals, are modern, and were copied by Cottingham from ancient examples. The roof is of wood, vaulted in imitation of stone, a description which is itself a condemnation. It has been coloured, under Mr. Cottingham's direction, in a manner which can by no means be called satisfactory. The pavement throughout the nave has been laid (by Mr. Cottingham) with plain red and slate-coloured tiles. Two rows of gas-standards, the work of Messrs. Skidmore, are placed under the arches at intervals, four on each side. VI. The nave-aisles were almost rebuilt during the late Decorated period. The Norman walls were al- lowed to stand for about 2 ft. above the foundations ; c The Norman triforium, which was a mere wall-arcade without a passage, consisted of two circular arches in each bay, each arch circumscribing two smaller ones. The clerestory had one lofty circular arch in each bay, and had a passage throughout. #mf. $%g of Sir $L $«ttbritye. 71 and upon these bases the existing walls and windows were erected. The contracts for this work, dating between the years 1360 — 1364, were found by the late Dean Merewether, and are now preserved in the archive chamber. The vaulting of the roofs is coloured in the same unpleasing manner as that of the nave. The view looking up the aisle, into and beyond the transept, is remarkable, owing to the many receding stages. It terminates at the eastern end of the second transept. In the second bay (counting from the west) of the south aisle is the font, of Norman design, and curious. The basin is circular, and has figures of the Apostles beneath arches, in the spandrels of which is a leaf-orna- ment. A lion projects from each corner of the base, an unusual and perhaps unique example. In the fourth bay is the very fine alabaster efligy of Sir Eichard Pembrldge, temp. Eichard II. Sir Eichard, an ancestor of the Chandos family, was one of the first knights of the Garter, and was present at Poictiers. The armour is an excellent example. Gold remains on the points of the cap to which the camail is attached, and on the jewelled sword-belt. The head rests on a tilting-helmet, with a sheaf of feathers coloured green. Between the feathers and the helmet is a coronet of open roses. The garter is on the left leg, and the feet rest on a grey- hound. This monument was originally in the church of the Black Priars, and was brought thence to the cathedral after the Dissolution. The right leg, which had been destroyed, has been restored at the cost of the Eev. Lord Saye and Sele, Canon Eesidentiary. 72 fmfort* flatjpbral. In the wall of this aisle, in the third bay from the east, is the headless figure of an ecclesiastic, under a Decorated arch, foliated. In the second bay is an effigy of a priest of the early Decorated period, much muti- lated, under a foliated arch, at the crown of which is a bearded head wearing a cap. In the third bay is a door opening to the cloisters, with a square heading which rises above the sill of the window over it. A row of heads in the hollow moulding of the door, — a fac-simile of a former composition, which had be- come entirely decayed, — and the modern iron-work, by Potter, with which the door itself is covered, de- serve notice, A narrow and lofty Norman arch opens from this aisle into the transept. YII. The north aisle is Decorated, of the same cha- racter as the south. In the third bay from the tower is the north porch, (§ iv.) ; and in the bay above it is the monument of Eishop Booth, (died 1535,) the con- structor of the porch itself. The effigy lies under a foliated arch with canopy. The Eishop, mitred and fully vested, holds the crozier (the head of which has been broken) wrapped with the infula, or fillet. Much colour remains on this monument, which is protected by its original iron-work, banded with shields and heraldic ornaments. In this aisle, a stained-glass window by Warrentois, with subjects from the life of St. John the Eaptist, has been inserted as a memorial of Canon Cltjtton and his wife. €§axT-8txtzn. 73 YIII. Between the eastern piers of the central tower, but projecting from their bases more than 3 ft. toward the nave, is placed the magnificent screen of wrought iron- work, painted and gilt, executed by Messrs. Skid- more of Coventry, from the designs of Mr. G. Gr. Scott. This is the second great work of the kind which has been produced in England. It is in many respects finer and more important than the screen at Lichfield; but it is designed and constructed on precisely the same principles; and affords a complete vindication of the advantage and beauty of metal-work for the purpose to which it is here applied. "Whilst the screen forms a sufficient division between the nave and choir, its extreme lightness permits the use of both tower and transept for congregational purposes. The Hereford screen consists of five main arches, each subdivided by a slender shaft. The central arch, wider and higher than the rest, forms the entrance, and is surmounted by a lofty gable, on the summit of which is the cross. Panels of hollow tracery fill in the lower part of the arches on either side of the entrance, to the height of about four feet. The heads of the arches and the spandrels between them are enriched with elaborate tracery, chiefly formed by flowers and leafage ; and the design of the cornice and cresting is of similar character. In the tympanum above the shaft which divides the arch of entrance is a figure of the Saviour, with hands outstretched in blessing. On either side, placed on brackets supported by the pillars of the main arch, are adoring angels, two in each group. 74 fewforfr 0»%kal. Single figures of angels, holding instruments of music, are placed on brackets at the terminations of the screeu, north and south. The screen is wrought by hand throughout. It is mainly constructed of iron ; but copper and brass are largely used ; the first in the capitals, figures, and cor- nice ; the second in the shafts of the smaller columns, and in parts of the larger. Coloured mosaics have also been employed. The variety of metals is another source of colour; but the hammered iron-work, forming the whole of the foliage, has been painted throughout. No colours have been used, however, but those of the oxydes of iron and copper — the metals employed in the work. The result is entirely successful. The beauty of the capitals of leafage, in which fine effects of light and shade are produced, and of the foliage and flowers in other parts of the screen, is very great ; and every band and line of ornament deserves notice. The forms of both leafage and flowers are to a certain ex- tent conventional, but may easily be recognised. The passion-flower especially has been much used, and with admirable effect. On the whole it may safely be said that this screen is the finest and most complete work of its class which has been produced in recent times ; nor would it be easy to mention any piece of ancient metal- work — at least of equal dimensions — which will bear comparison with it. Near the south-west corner of the screen is placed an eagle-lectern, designed by Cottingham and executed by Potter. The projecting branches, for lights, are un- fazntml Cote. 75 usual and picturesque. The cost of the lectern was de- frayed by the Misses Rushout; but the money was misappropriated, and it was eventually paid for by sub- scription. The old pulpit, of the seventeenth century, now stands against the north-west tower-pier ; but will shortly be replaced by one more worthy of the cathedral. The four great arches of the tower were in a condition of much danger when Dean Mere wether commenced his restorations in 1841. The piers, and the four arches resting on them, were Norman; but owing to settle- ments in the foundations of the nave and tower, which had taken place at a very early period, they had been cased and otherwise repaired during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries ; and still later (probably during the episcopate of Bishop Bisse, 1712 — 1721) the two smaller arches of the tower (north and south) were filled with so-called "ox-eye masonry d ," supported by two seg- mental arches branching from an octangular central column ; whilst nearly all the smaller Norman arches in connection with the tower-piers were closed with solid masonry, leaving only doorways. In spite of all that had been done, however, Professor "Willis, in his Report of 1841, pronounced the masonry of the great arches, and of the spandrel walls above, to be " in such a state of ruin as to make an immediate repair absolutely necessary for the preservation of the tower." The piers d " The oxe-eye masonry is so termed because the centre of it is pierced by an opening in the form of the ancient vesica piscis, called by workmen an ox-eye." — Willis. 76 fmforb €nfyzbxul themselves were in a condition of less danger ; bnt Mr. Cottingham, to whom the work was entrusted, proceeded to remove all the additions that had been made to them since the Norman period, and, in effect, to rebuild them according to their original design. In this state they remain at present. The arches resting on them were at the same time reconstructed, and the ox-eye masonry which filled those north and south was entirely re- moved. Before these restorations a vault of the fifteenth century rose immediately above the great arches, and concealed the upper part of the tower. This was removed. The whole of the tower above the arches dates from the beginning of the fourteenth century; and the interior walls, which are now visible from below, "are of a very singular construction; twelve piers of compact masonry on each side, beside angle piers, are carried up to the height of 26 ft., and con- nected half-way up by a horizontal course of stone, in long pieces, and by an iron bar, which runs all round immediately under this bonding course. Upon these gigantic stone gratings, if I may be allowed the ex- pression, the interior wall of the tower rests ; and they also carry the entire weight of the bell-chamber and bells. I believe this construction was entirely adopted for the sake of lightness 6 ." This part of the tower, which has no decorative character, was not originally intended to be seen from below ; and the fifteenth-century vault- ing had replaced an earlier wooden ceiling. It is now e Willis's Report on Hereford Cathedral, p. 20. Gfcmr. 11 completely open, and the flat wooden floor of the bell- chamber above it is coloured in blue and gold. From this floor depends a superb corona of wrought iron, by Skidmore — a worthy companion of the great choir- screen, and coloured in the same manner. IX. The peculiar darkness of the choir has already been mentioned. It results mainly (as will be seen from the Plan) from the arrangement of the transepts, which prevents the admission of light to the choir ex- cept from its clerestory. The choir and sacrarium, as at present formed, con- sist of only three bays, eastward of the screen. (The Norman choir extended no doubt to the western arch of the tower, if not into the first bay of the nave.) As far as the top of the triforium, the choir is Norman : the clerestory and vaulting are Early English, and date, apparently, from the middle of the thirteenth century. No record of their construction has been preserved. The main arches of the choir are of three orders, and spring from massive composite piers, with broad, square bases. The capitals of the semi-detached shafts are en- riched with leafage and grotesque heads. The triforium, in each bay, consists of one wide Norman arch circum- scribing two smaller, divided by a central shaft, and springing on either side from two massive semicircular piers, with small capitals. Both outer and inner arches spring from these piers. The capitals of the central shafts have square abaci, and are enriched. The tym- pana of the outer arches are covered with scallop, leaf, and billet-ornament. At the base of the triforium runs 78 jgmforir 6ti|ebxsL a square stringcourse, enriched with minute carving. The lozenge ornament prevails round the main arches of the choir, as does the zigzag round those of the nave. Broad square pilasters, with semi-detached shafts at their angles, fill the spaces between the piers. They terminate at the spring of the triforium arches in double triangular headings, with crocketed sides, and finials of leafage. These headings are Early English, of the same date as the clerestory and vaulting ; and between each pair rises a group of so-called vaulting- shafts, with capitals of leafage, terminating at the base of the clerestory; and connected (under the actual base of the clerestory) by a band of open flowers. The clerestory consists of one lofty pointed arch in each bay, divided by a central shaft; on either side is a smaller trefoiled arch. The windows, of two lights, with a quatrefoil in the heading, are placed at the back of the wall-passage, and form in effect a double plane with the large inner arches. They are filled on each side with indifferent stained glass. The choir vaulting is plain quadripartite, with bosses of leafage at the intersections. X. Before 1841, the east end of the choir was covered with an oaken screen, erected by Bishop Bisse in 1717; and above it was a Decorated window filled with a copy in stained glass of "West's picture of the Last Supper. The removal of the screen disclosed the great Norman arch of five orders, within which the reredos is now placed. Above this arch is a small blind arcade; and instead of the Decorated window, HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE II. THE ALTAR-SCREEN 79 three lancets have been inserted at the back of the clerestory passage. Of these, the central window has been filled with stained glass by Hahdmajst ; too minute perhaps in design for the height at which it is placed, bnt very good. The subjects in this window are the Saviour in Majesty, the Resurrection, the Crucifixion. The subjects in the north and south lancets will com- prise the principal events of our Lord's Passion. The reredos [Plate II.] below was designed by Mr. Cottingham, jun., as a memorial for Joseph Bailey, Esq., M.P. for the county of Hereford, who died in 1850. It is in oolite (Bath stone) and marble ; and although too high for its position, is a fine work. Between the five cano- pied compartments rise small shafts, supporting angels, who carry the instruments of the Passion. The pierced leafage at the back of the canopies is very beautiful. The subjects in the panels are — the Agony in the Garden, Bearing the Cross, the Crucifixion, with float- ing angels above the Cross, the Besurrection, and the three Maries at the Sepulchre. At the back of the reredos rises a pier from which spring two pointed arches, leaving a broad tympanum or spandrel, closing the upper part of the Norman arch. This is a restoration of Mr. Cottingham's. The pier itself is ancient. The spandrel is covered with modern sculpture, having, above, the Saviour in Majesty, with the Evangelists holding scrolls ; and below, a figure of Ethelbert, Xing of East Anglia, who was murdered by Offa, King of Mercia, and is said to have been interred in the first Saxon church on this spot. (See Pt. II.) 80 fj mfaxb Ca%brHl. Miracles were reported as having occurred at his tomb, and the second church here was dedicated to St. Ethelbert. The very good brass of Bishop Teilleck (died 1360) is placed on the chancel floor. The graceful arrange- ment of the vestments — which do not include the tunic — and the architectural design of the canopy deserve special notice. The greater part of the inscription has been lost f . Against the easternmost pier on the south side of the choir is a small figure on a bracket, which pos- sibly represents St. Ethelbert. It was found about the year 1700, buried at the entrance of the Lady-chapel, (where it is said to have been concealed during the siege of 1645,) and was replaced in what is believed to have been its original position. The figure wears a coronet terminating in leaves. The strings of the long mantle are crossed on the breast. Whatever the hands once held has been destroyed. The figure is certainly not earlier than the first half of the four- teenth century. On the north side of the choir, in the easternmost bay, is the effigy of Bishop Staoteet, (died 1474,) whose chantry opens from the aisle opposite ; (§ xiv.) The Bishop wears the alb, stole, and chasuble, the flowing ornament on which should be noticed. It should here be mentioned that "Wyatt, following the same destructive course as at Salisbury, removed many f This brass is engraved as the frontispiece to Haines's " Manual of Monumental Brasses." Cljoir. parametria. £Ms, 81 monuments in the cathedral from their original posi- tions; thereby rendering even their identification a matter of some difficulty. In the next bay is the effigy of a bishop, fully vested, holding the model of a tower. This is assigned to Eishop Giles de Eettce, (died 1215) ; and Godwin (De Prcesulibus) conjectured that the model indicated this bishop as having been the builder of the central tower — a conjecture which has been assumed as a certainty by every succeeding writer. Eut whatever architectural work Eishop Giles may have done, the tower, as was pointed out by Professor Willis, is nearly a century later. His effigy is one of ten which were erected during the Perpendicular period as memorials of earlier bishops, and which are now scattered in different parts of the cathedral. (In the same manner, many effigies of earlier bishops were sculptured at "Wells (see that Cathedral) in the first half of the thirteenth century, and are all of Early English character.) In the same bay is the monument of Eishop Bennett, (died 1617). He wears the rochet, and a close black cap, and rests his feet on a lion; an unusual instance of the retention of an earlier form. The Eishop was buried on this spot. The stalls of the choir range up to this bay. They are Decorated, and very good. The small heads and orna- ments of the shafts which support the projecting canopies should especially be noticed. The misereres are interest- ing, but of no special excellence. Two on the south side represent a cook throwing a platter at an intruder, and vol. ni. G 82 gjmforfr Ca%bmL a pair of wrestlers with ropes about their necks. The whole of this ancient work has been carefully cleaned, and restored where necessary, under the direction of Mr. Scott. The new carving, which is very fine, and well worthy of its companionship with fourteenth-cen- tury wood- work, is entirely by Messrs. Euddle and Thompson of Peterborough. Some of the new misereres, and the elaborately carved ends or heads, sixteen in number, deserve careful attention. The panel- work in front of the stalls is an exact reproduction of that before the episcopal throne. The floor of the whole choir has been laid with tiles, manufactured (as are those throughout the church with the exception of the nave) by Godwin of Lugwardine. The pavement of the sacrarium is especially rich and elaborate. The organ (by Eenatus Harris, but remodelled and reconstructed by Davison under the direction of Sir Frederick Ouseley) is to be placed within the first archway on the south side of the choir. XI. Through the north arch of the tower we pass into the north transept, [Plate III.] ; one of the finest and most interesting parts of the church, which fortu- nately remained untouched until the cathedral was placed under the care of Mr. Gr. G. Scott, by whom this transept has been carefully restored. The date of its erection has not been recorded ; but we cannot be wrong in assigning it to the period between the death of Bishop Cantilupe (1282) and his translation in 1287. The Bishop was at first buried in the Lady-chapel, but was HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE II!. BAT OE THE NORTH TRANSEPT gMflj faimpf. 83 removed to this transept in 1287. The miracles re- ported at his tomb had already brought large sums to the Church; and the rebuilding of the transept for the reception of his shrine must have been completed before the removal of his body in 1287. The Norman arches opening to the aisles of nave and choir resemble those which correspond to them on the south side of the church. The transept beyond them was, as we have seen, entirely rebuilt, and is one of the most remarkable examples of the period remaining in England. The unusual form of its arches, and its pure, lofty windows, are sufficiently impressive now; but their effect must have been wonderfully increased when the windows were filled with glass displaying the history and miracles of the sainted Bishop, and when the shrine itself was standing on its pedestal within the eastern aisle, rich with the gold and jewels offered by the numerous pilgrims who knelt daily be- fore it. The west side of the transept (which is of two bays beyond the aisle passage) is entirely filled by two very lofty windows, of three lights each. The heads of the narrow lights are sharply pointed; and the tracery above is formed by three circles enclosing trefoils. These windows are set back within triangular-headed arches. On the north side is a double window of the same character, divided by a group of banded shafts. The triple lights on either side of these shafts, and the foiled circles above them, precisely resemble the windows on the west side of the transept. The central 84 fmforb tivfytonl tracery of the window is formed by a foiled circle, with a larger circle, enclosing a sexfoil, above it. The whole window is set back within a segmental pointed arch, with banded shafts at the angles of the jambs. The eastern aisle of the transept is divided into two bays by a clustered pier, the shafts surrounding which are alternately of sandstone and dark marble. Their capitals are enriched with foliage, and small knots of foliage are placed between the bases. The main arches are sharply pointed, and have many plain mouldings, with one band of dog-tooth ornament, highly detached. The triforium above (which extends beyond the actual transept, over the Norman arch opening to the choir- aisle) is especially striking. In each bay are two sharply pointed arches, each subdivided into three lesser arches, with foiled headings; and with three open quatrefoils as tracery above. The main arch is surrounded by a row of dog-tooth. The large span- drel spaces between the arches are entirely covered with a diaper of leaf-ornament, in low relief. The clerestory windows are octofoils, set far back within pointed arches. On the exterior, the form of the window openings is triangular, like those of the tri- forium at Westminster and those in the clerestory of the nave at Lichfield. On the interior, the sills of the windows slope forward with overlapping courses of stone, to the stringcourse at the top of the triforium. The sills of the great windows in the transept are formed in a similar manner, with overlapping courses of stone. HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE IV. PEDESTAL OF THE SHRINE OF BISHOP CANTILUPE gtorife Cranaept. Cantilupe ^ferine. 85 The shafts at the angles of all the windows are ringed, and the triangular arches, throughout the tran- sept, are slightly stilted. Such arches are by no means common. They occur, however, in the clerestory on the south side of the nave in "Worcester Cathedral, but of later date than this transept, which was possibly imitated by the "Worcester architect. This transept has been carefully and truly " restored," under the direction of Mr. G. Gr. Scott. The stone- work has been freed from whitewash and cleaned; and the plain quadripartite vaulting has been touched with colour, and the bosses gilt, with excellent effect. The vaulting springs from clustered shafts, the corbels supporting which, on the east side, are beautiful and singular, and resemble bunches of reeds, terminating in a small open flower. The small heads below these corbels, at the intersection of the main arches, should also be noticed. The transept has been laid with red and green tiles in panels, the divisions being marked in grey sand- stone. XII. The eastern aisle is lighted by three very beau- tiful windows, each of three lights, with three quatre- foils in the tracery. They are set back within wider arches, as is the case with the windows in the main transept. In this aisle, in a line with the central pier, is the pedestal of the Cantilupe Shrine. [Plate IV.] (For a sketch of the life of St. Thomas Cantilupe, the last Englishman canonized before the Eeformation, see Pt. II.) Bishop Cantilupe died on his way to Rome, at 86 | mforb €a%bral. Civita Vecchia, Aug. 25, 1282. His remains were divi- ded. A portion was interred near Orvieto ; the heart was brought to Ashridge in Buckinghamshire ; and the bones were brought to his own cathedral at Hereford, where they were deposited in the Lady-chapel. The reputa- tion of Eishop Cantilupe had been great during his life. Numerous miracles were recorded as having taken place at his tomb, which soon became one of the most frequented places of pilgrimage in the west of Eng- land; and in 1286 (April 6) his remains were trans- lated to a more stately resting-place in this transept, which had probably been rebuilt in his honour. The King, Edward II., was present at the translation. Eishop Cantilupe was not canonized until 1320?; but the pedestal of his shrine, which alone now exists, is (with the exception of the western end, which seems to be at least thirty years later) of the date of his translation. This is a long parallelogram, narrowing toward the lower end, and is entirely of Purbeck marble. It has two divisions ; the lower closed, like an altar-tomb, the upper a flat canopy, supported on small open arches. Upon this rested the actual shrine, containing the relics of the saint. Cantilupe was Provincial Grand Master of the Knights Templars in England; and round the lower division of the pedestal are fifteen figures of Templars in various attitudes, placed in the recesses of a foliated arcade. All are fully armed, in chain- mail, with surcoat, shield, and sword. All are b See Pt. II. for the confirmation of this date. (toixhtpe ^Ijrke. 87 seated, and tread on various monsters, among which are dragons, and swine muzzled. The spandrels in this arcade, and the spandrels between the arches in the upper division, are filled with leafage of the most beautiful and varied character. It is the leafage of the first Decorated period, retaining some of the stiff arrangement of the Early English, but directly copied from nature. In the lower spandrels it is arranged in sprays ; in the upper it is often laid in rows of leaves, among which occur oak, maple, and trefoil. The whole of this work will repay the most careful examination. (It should be compared with the foliage of the capitals of the shafts surrounding the central pier of the aisle, which is far more stiff and conventional.) On the top of the lower division of the pedestal was a brass of the Bishop, of which the matrix alone remains. The position of the shrine in this transept may be compared with that of St. Erideswide at Oxford, and with that of St. Richard de la Wych at Chichester. All had an altar immediately adjoining the shrine, which was dedicated to the saint, and at which the offerings of pilgrims were made. In these cases, how- ever, the usual position of a great shrine — at the back of the high altar — was, for some special reason, departed from. At Hereford, this position of highest honour was probably occupied by the shrine of St. Ethelbert ; and the shrine of St. Thomas Cantilupe must have taken an inferior place, had it been fixed near that. This was avoided by the dedication of the entire transept to the sainted Bishop. In the same manner, the south transept 88 fmforb &a%braL at Chichester seems to have been occupied by the shrine of St. Eichard de la "Wych ; in whose honour the great south window was probably inserted. On a bracket against the wall adjoining the shrine is a bust of Bishop Field, (died 1636). On the floor is a slab with effigy of John d'Acojtablanca, Dean of Hereford, (died 1320), He was the nephew of Bishop d'Acquablanca, whose monument (see post) is close by. Under the north window of the aisle is a stone coffin, found under the centre of the north arch of the tower, during the restoration of the piers. It may be the coffin of Bishop John de Beeton, (died 1275). Under the great north window of the transept is a richly canopied tomb with effigy of Bishop Thomas Chaelton, (died 1369). This effigy was not disturbed by "Wyatt, and remains in its original position. "West of this monument is the effigy of Bishop "Westealing, (died 1602). The canopy was destroyed by "Wyatt. This is the bishop who is said so rarely to have smiled after his consecration to the episcopate; (see Pt. II.) In the pavement adjoining the choir- aisle, a very good small brass has been inserted for John Philips, (died 1708, aged 32,) whose family were natives of Herefordshire, although the poet himself was born at Bampton in Oxfordshire, of which place his father was rector. His principal work, however, " Cider," belongs essentially to Herefordshire. A monument to Philips was placed in "Westminster Abbey by Lord Chancellor Harcourt, and bears an inscription written by Bishop Atterbury. HEREFORD CATHEDRAL PLATE V. MONUMENT OF BISHOP Ji'AyUABLANCA. (FROM THE NORTH TRANSEPT.) Sfortjy Cfcoir-aisk 89 XIII. The north choir-aisle is entered through the original Norman arch ; which (together with that open- ing from the nave-aisle) was cleared by Mr. Cottingham from the masonry with which it had been nearly closed, in order to strengthen the tower piers. Between this aisle and the eastern aisle of the transept is the very beautiful monument of Eishop d'Acquablaitca, (1240 — 1268). [Plate V.] The effigy lies under a canopy sup- ported by light shafts of Purbeek marble. The gables of the canopy are crowned with floriated crosses, the central cross bearing a figure of the crucified Saviour. The monument may be compared with that of Bishop Bridport at Salisbury, (died 1262,) which is, however, far richer and more elaborate. The tomb of Bishop d'Acquablanca was originally richly coloured ; and an attempt at restoration was made by an amateur in 1861. It was soon, however, discontinued,— not unwisely, as the commencement remains to prove. The Norman piers of the choir and the monuments described in § x. should be noticed from the aisle, the pavement of which has been laid in square panels of red and green tiles, with a border of grey stone. In the north wall of the aisle is a series of arched recesses, of Decorated character, with the open-flower ornament in the mouldings, episcopal heads at the crown of the arches, and heads of ecclesiastics at the intersections. In the first of these recesses east of the transept, is an effigy assigned to Bishop Geozfuy de Clive, (died 1120). This is one of the series of Perpendicular effigies already noticed, (§ x.) Beyond this recess a door opens to 90 f mhxb &a%braL the turret staircase leading to the Archive Room and Chapter Library, (see § xxm.,) above the north tran- sept. The effigy in the next recess (also Perpendicular) is given to Bishop Hugh de Mapexore, (died 1219). The window above is filled with stained glass, by Clayton and Bell, as a memorial of Johx Httxt, organist, died 1842, and his nephew James, " who died of grief three days after his uncle ;" as appears from an inscription on a small brass plate at the side of the window. Beyond the entrance to Bishop Stanbery's chapel is an arch open to the chapel itself, under which is a Perpen- dicular effigy assigned to Bishop Richard, (called "de Capella,") died 1127. XIY. Bishop Stanbery's Chantry (1453— 1474) [Plate VI.] is a good example of rich late Perpendicular. It is 16 ft. by 8 ft. ; with two windows on the north side, (filled with stained glass, which forms part of the Mus- grave memorial ; see post,) and on the south the en- trance, and the arch with effigy already mentioned. The west end is covered with tracery and shields in panels ; and the east has shields with emblems above the place of the altar. The ceiling is richly groined. The grotesque capitals at the angles of the chapel should be remarked; as should the shields with emblems of St. Matthias, St. Thomas, and St. Bartholomew, over the arch on the south side. Other shields bear the arms of the see and of the deanery, with those assigned to St. Ethelbert, and to Leofric of Mercia. Bishop Stanbery's monument (§ x.) is on the wall of the choir immediately opposite his chantry. On the HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE VI. BISHOP STANBURY'S CHAPEL. gortlj-mi &ratwpt 91 panels toward the aisle are figures of saints, and angels bearing shields. In the wall of the aisle above the chantry, which is only 11 ft. in height, is a Decorated window filled with stained glass as a memorial of the late Dr. Musgeave, Archbishop of York ; who, as Bishop of Hereford, was among the first to set on foot the restoration of his cathedral. The glass, which is by Waeeenton - , exhibits the principal events in the life of St. Paul. The subjects are continued in the windows of the chantry, which form part of the memorial. XY. The north-east transept opens immediately beyond Bishop Stanbery's chantry. The main cha- racter of this lesser, or eastern transept, is at present early Decorated, (geometrical) ; but it retains traces of the original Norman ground-plan. The Norman cathedral, like most great churches in England of that period, seems to have terminated in a triple apse, of which the arrangement may have resembled the eastern apses of Norwich and Gloucester, (see those Cathedral). Portions of the central apse remain in the walls of the vestibule to the Lady-chapel ; and parts of the apses which opened from the choir-aisles have been retained in the existing transept. These are all of transitional Norman character ; and are considerably later than the Norman choir or nave. Extensive alterations had been made in this part of the Norman cathedral before the great north transept was rebuilt in order to receive the shrine of St. Thomas Cantilupe. The Lady-chapel, dating from the early part of the thirteenth century, was the first addition ; and its 92 frnforir 4&a%br»L building must have followed very closely on the com- pletion of the Norman retro-choir with its apses, the side walls of which were retained in the vestibule of the Lady-chapel. Considerably later, (at the beginning of the fourteenth century), after the completion of the north transept, the terminal apses of the choir-aisles were almost entirely removed, and the existing transept constructed. It is much to be regretted that none of these works have any recorded date. A peculiar character is given to this transept by an octagonal pier, which rises in the centre, and assists in carrying the vaulting. The vaulting is quadripartite, with very good bosses of leafage. The windows are early Decorated. In the west wall of the transept are some Norman arches, which belonged to the original apse. The transept has been restored under the direction of Mr. G. Gr. Scott. The tiles of the pavement are laid in panels, in which red and yellow are the prevailing colours. In one of the panels is a good modern brass for members of the Teeey family. Under the north-east window is a monument which has been assigned to Bishop Godwin, (died 1633); but which is in reality much earlier. Under the adjoining window, west, is the canopied tomb of Bishop Swin- pield, (1283—1317). The episcopal effigy has long disappeared, and that which is now seen on the tomb is the effigy of some unknown lay person, dug up in the cloisters. The arched canopy has the ball-flower in its mouldings ; and at the back of the recess is a much HEREFORD CATHEDRAL, PLATE IX. COFFIN SLAB IN THE SOUTH TRANSEPT. $ktm-£ljoir. 93 mutilated sculpture of the Crucifixion, surrounded by vine-leaves and tendrils. The work resembles the leafage of the Cantilupe Shrine, and is possibly by the same hand. In a recess decorated with the ball-flower under the arch opening to the vestibule of the Lady- chapel, is the effigy of an unknown lady, (fourteenth century,) dug up outside the church during the restora- tions. Against the walls of the transept are ranged some coffin slabs, with floriated and enriched crosses, found at different times and in various parts of the cathedral. One of these {circa 1250 ?) is given in Plate IX. XYI. From the transept we pass into the ambulatory, or retro-choir, at the back of the altar. This is tran- sitional Norman, and its two bays are divided by a pointed arch, which springs from circular shafts, at the back of the altar and at the entrance to the vesti- bule of the Lady- chapel. The ribs of the quadripartite vaulting are enriched with chevron and diamond mould- ings of late character. The arches at the back of the choir-screen were decorated (see § x.) by Mr. Cotting- ham. On the base of the central shaft is an inscription recording the erection of the screen as a memorial of Joseph Bailey, Esq. ; (see § x.) The existing arrangement seems to indicate (although this has not been directly proved) that the Norman ground-plan, like that of Norwich, comprised an ambu- latory or " procession-path," passing round at the back of the high altar, and giving access to the central and side apses, which opened from it. 94 fjtwforb CatfctaaL XYII. The walls of this central apse are retained in the vestibule to the Lady-chapel. They are pierced north and south with transitional Norman window openings ; pointed arches, with massive mouldings, one of which, an enriched diamond, runs round the soffete, and is carried on the capitals of triple side shafts. The Window in vestibule of Lady-chapel foliage of the capitals is of completely Early English character. These windows (the glass in which, as is indicated by their rebated jambs, was fixed in wooden HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE VII. EASTERN BAT OF THE LADY-CHAPEL. ya&g-t&HptJL 95 frames) were built up in the wall, until the restoration of this part of the cathedral by Mr. Cottingham. In the south wall of the vestibule is the very in- teresting monument, with effigy, of Dean Berew, or Beatjeief, (died 1462). The head of the effigy, deli- cately featured and full of expression, and the ar- rangement of the robe, especially at the feet, are very striking, and should be noticed. The feet rest on a boar ; and in the hollow of the arch-moulding are boars and rue leaves, forming a "rebus" of the Dean's name. Over the whole monument there are traces of painting, and at the back of the recess the kneeling figure of an ecclesiastic is distinguishable ; possibly that of Dean Berew himself. On the floor is the very fine brass of Eichard Dela- mare (1435) and his wife Isabella. There is also here the brass of a priest in cope, circa 1450. XVIII. An ascent of five steps (rendered necessary by the height of the crypt below ; see § xxvi.) leads to the Lady-chapel, [Plate VII.] ; very rich Early Eng- lish, and dating from the first half of the thirteenth century, (circ. 1220). It is 45 ft. by 24, and consists of three bays, in each of which, on either side, (ex- cept where the bay on the south side is filled by the Audley Chantry,) are two large windows. When Pro- fessor "Willis made his report in 1841, the eastern gable of this chapel (then used as the Chapter Library) was in a state of " ruinous disintegration;" and one of the first works entrusted to Mr. Cottingham was the re- building of this eastern end. The pavement of the 4 96 gfmfnb Ca%braL Lady-chapel, and other restorations, have happily been completed under the direction of Mr. G. G. Scott. At the east end are five narrow lancets, set back within arches resting on clustered shafts, and much enriched with the dog-tooth ornament. The wall above these windows is pierced with five foiled openings ; of which the three central are oval, the exterior on either side circular. The windows have been filled with stained glass designed by Cottingham and executed by Gibbs, as a memorial to the late Dean Meeewethek, — to whom the cathedral is so greatly indebted, — who is interred at the north-east angle of the chapel. The subjects commence with the early life of the Yirgin, and proceed through that of our Lord, terminating with the supper in the house of Mary and Martha. The glass is good, but suffers from the want of white and neutral tints. A black marble slab, with a brass plate by Hardman, has been placed over the grave of Dean Merewether. The inscription bears record that "to the restoration of this cathedral he devoted the unwearied energies of his life till its close on the 4th of April, 1850." The very rich clustered shafts and arches of the side windows should be especially noticed. The capitals of the shafts are of Early English leafage; and there are small heads at the intersections and crowns of the arches. A circle enclosing a quatrefoil pierces the wall above these windows. The vaulting is plain quadri- partite, and springs from shafts which descend upon a base raised slightly above the pavement. ^iaxmmnU m JSTabg-t^apjeL 97 The modern pavement of the Lady-chapel is laid with red and green tiles, in large square panels. The whole design is broad and good in outline ; and is somewhat richer at the altar end, which is raised on one step. The aumbry and double piscina on the south side of the altar are reproductions of the originals, which were in a state of extreme decay. Of the two stained windows on the south side, the most eastern (of late fourteenth-century character) was removed from St. Peter's Church in Hereford, and was given to the cathedral by E. E. Phillipps, Esq. The window below is filled with Munich glass. In the central bay on the north side of the chapel is a very fine Perpendicular monumental recess, within which is laid the effigy (much earlier than the recess) of a knight of the Eohun family. The recess itself has an upper stage or canopy, with open tabernacle- work, in the arches of which figures have been placed, none of which originally belonged to it, with the excep- tion of the two central ones, now headless, representing the Saviour and the Elessed Virgin. The figures on either side were found imbedded in a mass of mortar behind the oaken choir-screen, on its removal by Mr. Cottingham. They represent St. John the Eaptist, St. Thomas Cantilupe, and St. Thomas of Canterbury, — the latter distinguished by the pall and the patriarchal cross, — the fourth figure is uncertain. The effigy placed in this recess has generally been assigned to Humphrey de Eohun, Earl of Hereford, temp. Edward III. He was not however interred in vol. nr. h 98 gmforfc Ca%bral this cathedral; and although the effigy is certainly of that date, it probably represents some less distin- guished member of that great family. The features, un- injured, are fine. The chain-mail, the fringed poleyns at the knees, the surcoat, and all the details, should be noticed. The dog at the feet turns upward, licking his paw. The monument, with effigy, in the most eastern bay on this side, is that of Joanna de Bourns - , Countess of Hereford, (called Joanna de Kilpeck, from her castle there,) (died 1327). It has been painted in accordance with the remains of colour on its several portions ; but with very indifferent success. The effigy is a good ex- ample of costume. Male and female heads project at the angles of the canopy ; and the border of the slab on which the effigy rests has small human heads and roses with their leaves, alternately. The will of the Countess bequeaths a considerable estate to the cathedral. XIX. In the central bay on the south side is the Audley Chapel or Chantry, [Plate YIII.J constructed by Bishop Edmund Audley, (1492 — 1502,) before his trans- lation to Salisbury in the latter year. The chantry here was no doubt intended for the place of his own inter- ment; but during his episcopate at Salisbury (1502 — 1524) he built a second chantry in the choir of that cathedral, (see Handbook for Salisbury,) within which he was buried. The Audley Chapel at Hereford is of two stages, access to the upper being afforded by a circular stair- case at the south-west angle. The lower story is sepa- HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE VIII PART OF LADY CHAPEL, WITH THE SCREEN OF BISHOP ATJDLET'S CHANTRY. rated from the Lady-chapel by a lofty stone screen with pierced panels. Figures of saints and of religious per- sons are represented on this screen, which has been restored and painted. The iron-work on the door opening to the staircase is excellent as an example, and should be noticed. The lock bears the Bishop's initials. The chapel is five-sided, and is lighted by two win- dows. There is a third window, opening through the screen into the Lady-chapel. The vaulted ceiling shews the remains of rich colour ; and at the east end, over the place of the altar, are traces of a large painting with trees and figures, The upper story has five win- dows, in which are some good remains of the original glass. On the central boss of the groining is the Virgin, crowned, and surrounded by an aureole of rays. The arms of the Deanery, (Azure, five bends or,) and those of Bishop Audley, appear on other parts of the ceiling, with a shield bearing the initials (B. I.) of some un- known person. The top of the screen forms a parapet, dividing this story from the Lady-chapel. There are no traces of an altar here ; and the upper story of this chantry probably served — like those of the chantries of Abbots Farley and Hanley at Gloucester, (see that Cathedral,) which are also attached to the Lady- chapel, and are constructed on a similar plan — as an oratory. XX. The south-east transept resembles that opposite ; but it was perhaps altered from the Norman apse at a somewhat later date. Its details are not so good 100 fmfnb Ca%kaL as those of the north-east transept; and the window tracery is of almost flamboyant character. Eases of the earlier work remain in the walls. Under the wall dividing the vestibule of the Lady- chapel from this transept is the monument, with effigy, of Bishop Lewis Charlton, (died 1369). Above it is that of Bishop Coke, (died 1646). In a square recess, in the east wall, is the fine bust of a Mr. James Thomas, who is buried near this place ; and under it the brass of Sir Richard Delabere, (1514,) and two wives. In the recess, with the bust, are placed some carved Norman capitals, of early character. Under the south wall of the transept are monuments for Bishop Lind- sell, (died 1634,) and Dean Harvey, (died 1500); neither of any great interest. Some fragments of brasses are attached to the walls of this transept, but are of little importance. The north-east window has been filled with stained glass by Warrenton, at the sole expense of Lord Saye and Sele, as a memorial of Bishop Huntingford, (1815 — 1834). The subjects are from the life of St. Peter. XXI. In the south wall of the south choir-aisle are four arched recesses, of the same date and character (Decorated) as those in the aisle opposite. They contain four Perpendicular effigies ; assigned (beginning from the east) to Bishop William de Yere, (died 1199) ; Bishop Hugh Poliot, (died 1234); Bishop Robert de Betu^, (died 1148); and Bishop Bobert be Melus - , (died 1167). On the floor is the fine brass of Dean Edmund Prowsetoure, (died 1529,) in a richly diapered JSoutlj Cljoir-abk ^onfy %xmu^t 101 cope. Among the figures in the canopy are those of St. Ethelbert and of St. Thomas Cantilnpe. Between the two easternmost piers of the choir is the monument, with effigy, of Bishop Mayew, (1504 — 1516; see Pt. II.) The elaborate canopy has been restored, so far as any authority remained for the details. The panels in front of the monument are filled with figures of saints. The effigy, fully vested, and wear- ing a richly jewelled mitre, should be especially noticed. Under an arch opening to the choir, in the next bay, is a Perpendicular effigy assigned to Bishop de LosnraA, (died 1096). Above it is a frag- ment of good wooden screen-work, of Decorated cha- racter. A door in the westernmost bay of this aisle opens to two plain Norman rooms, now used as vestries. In the Perpendicular period an " eastern chamber" of two stories was added to this Norman building, and served as the treasury of the cathedral. XXII. The great south transept retains much of its Norman work, but was much altered during the Per- pendicular period. The east wall is entirely Norman, and is covered with five ranges of arcades, all of which are blank except those at the levels of the triforium and clerestory, which open to a wall-passage. The transept is only lighted on this side by two Norman windows in the clerestory. A large Norman arch, in- cluding two smaller, all much enriched, occupies the triforium space above the arch opening to the choir- aisle ; and perhaps indicates that the Norman triforium 102 fmforfr of the choir extended backwards over the choir-aisles before the alteration of the latter at the end of the thirteenth century. The Norman work in the west wall of the transept has been cut into and through by Perpendicular windows, one of which is large. The south wall is filled by a large Perpendicular window, with Perpendicular panelling round and below it. Brackets for figures remain in the wall on either side of the window. The Kerne vaulting of the roof is Perpendicular. Toward the south-east angle of the transept is an altar-tomb, with effigies in alabaster, for Sir Alex- ander Denton - , and his wife Anne, daughter of Richard Wilson, of Sugwas, who died, together with her infant, (represented as a "chrysome" child,) in 1566, and was buried here. Her husband was interred in the beautiful church at Hillesden, in Buckingham- shire, where he died ten years later. The monument, which has been coloured, is of unusually good design for its period. The knight wears a chain of two rows, and holds a cross (almost concealed) between his hands, which, like those of his wife, are raised in prayer h . Under the south window is the monument, with effigy, of Bishop John Trevenant, (1389 — 1404,) who is said to have made the Perpendicular alterations in this transept, which have been already described. XXIII. A staircase in the north choir-aisle leads, as h The Dentons were progenitors of the Cokes, now Earls of Leicester. Mr. Coke, afterwards Earl of Leicester, was the last possessor of Hillesden, belonging to this family. HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE X. BOOKS IN THE LIBRARY. HEREFORD CATHEDRAL. PLATE XI ANCIENT MAP. g^ib* %aom nxib Cfrapfer JJikarg. 103 has been already mentioned, to the Archive Room and Chapter Library, above the great north transept. This room has been thoroughly restored by Mr. Gr. G. Scott. The Library contains about 2,000 volumes, many of great rarity and interest. Nearly all are chained to the shelves; and the general appearance of the carefully guarded treasures is sufficiently curious. [Plate X.] Among the most remarkable printed books are — A series of Bibles, ranging from 1480 to 1690; Higden's Poly- chronicon, by Caxton, 1495; Caxton's Legenda Aurea, 1483 ; and Lyndewode Super Constitutiones Provinciales, 1475. Of the MSS., by far the most interesting is an ancient Antiphonarium containing the old " Hereford Use." This " sets forth not only the services of par- ticular days, the chants to be used and the lectures to be read, but contains a treatise on music and an ample calendar, in which are noted the obits of the bene- factors and bishops of the church ; and by which, with the aid of the Dominical letter, we are enabled to assign to the volume the date of 1265 V It was pur- chased at a book-stall in Drury-lane about the year 1820 ; and redeemed by the Dean and Chapter, who restored it to its original and legitimate resting-place. Here also is preserved, carefully protected by plate glass, the remarkable Map of the World, [Plate XI.,] which is one of the most valuable relics of mediaeval geography. It was the work of a certain Richard of Haldingham and of Lafford, (Holdingham and ' Dean Merewether's Memorials. 104 Sleaford in Lincolnshire,) who has commemorated him- self in the following verses : — " Tuz ki cest estorie ont On oyront, on luront, on veront, Prient a Jhesn en deyte De Richard de Haldingham e de Lafford eyt pite Ki l'at fet e compasse Ke joie en eel li seit done." The latter part of the thirteenth centnry is the date which has usually been assigned to it; but M. D'Avezac, President of the Geographical Society of Paris, who has recently examined the map with much care, arrives, from internal evidence, at the conclusion that it was designed at the beginning of the year 1314 j . The map itself (drawn on thick vellum, and glued to a framework of oak) is founded on the mediaeval belief that all geographical knowledge resulted from the obser- vations of three philosophers, (here named Nichodoxus, Theodotus, and Policlitus,) who were sent forth by Augustus Caesar to survey the three divisions of the world, when it was about to be taxed at the birth of our Lord. The Emperor is accordingly figured giving his directions to the philosophers. The world is repre- sented as round, and surrounded by the ocean. At the top of the map, which represents the east, is Paradise, j A translation of M. D'Avezac's paper will be found in the Gentleman's Magazine for May, 1863. The division of France from Flanders, and "an inscription, most significant, placed across the Saone and the Rhone, marking, between Lyons and Vienne, the separation of France from Burgundy," are the in- dications on which M. D'Avezac relies for his date. Pap a! % SKorlfc 105 with the Tree of Life, and Adam and Eve. Above is the Last Judgment, with the Virgin interceding for man- kind. J erusalem appears in the centre of the map ; and near it, the crucifix is planted on ''Mount Calvary.'* Babylon has its famous tower; Eome bears the in- scription, "Roma caput mundi tenet orbis frena ro- tundi;" and Troy is described as "Troja civitas belli- cosissima." (These four cities were regarded as the most important in the world : Troy, in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, was a favourite subject of romance.) The British Isles occupy a considerable space; and Hereford, with its cathedral, is by no means obscurely placed. A great part of the map is filled with inscrip- tions taken from Solinus, Isidore of Seville, and others ; and with drawings of the monstrous animals and peoples which the mediaeval cosmography supposed to exist in different parts of the world. The monkey is assigned to Norway ; the scorpion to the banks of the Rhine ; and the " oroc " (aurochs) to Provence. Lot's wife, the labyrinth of Crete, the columns of Hercules, and Scylla and Charybdis, should also be noticed. "The portrait of Abraham is seen in Chaidaea, and that of Moses on Mount Sinai. Amid the deserts of Ethiopia St. Anthony is recognised, with his hook-beaked satyrs and fauns. St. Augustine in his pontifical habit marks the situation of his own Hippo k ." The history of this very remarkable map is uncer- tain. It was discovered, probably about a century ago, k D'Avezac. 106 under the floor of Bishop Audley's Chapel ; and Dean Mere-wether suggested (but apparently without the slightest authority) that it might have served originally as an altar-piece 1 . In the church is preserved a very curious chair of the thirteenth or fourteenth century, closely resembling those often represented in early sculpture and painting. It is formed in great measure of little turned balusters ; and may be compared with a chair figured by M. Yiollet- le-Duc m from sculpture at Auxerre. The Hereford chair (which at first sight looks like work of the seven- teenth century, but is undoubtedly early, and a most valuable remnant of antiquity) may perhaps have served as the bishop's throne, before the construction, in the fourteenth century, of that now in use; — or it may have been the bishop's chair at the altar. XXIY. A door at the eastern end of the south nave- aisle opens to the cloisters, of which only two walks, the east and south, remain. The west walk was pulled down in the reign of Edward VI. to make room for the 1 For a further notice of this map, see Mr. Wright's paper in the Gloucester volume of the Archaeological Association, and that by M. D'Avezac already mentioned. One of the earliest mediaeval maps accompanies the text of the Periegesis of Priscian, an Anglo- Saxon MS. of the end of the tenth century, (Cott. Lib.) "A map of the world, in a MS. of the thirteenth century in the British Museum, contains a curious note, in which the author refers to four maps which were then looked upon in England as being of chief authority. These were, the map of Robert de Melkeleia, that of the Abbey of Waltham, that in the King's Chamber at Westminster, and that of Matthew Paris." — Wright. m " Mobiliers." (fteto. Clrapfa-ljott^. 107 Grammar School, (taken down in 1836,) and a north walk neyer existed. (Hereford Cathedral, it should be remembered, had no monastic establishment attached to it ; and this cloister, [Title-page,'] unlike that at Glou- cester, was little more than an ornamental walk, con- nected with the Bishop's Palace). The cloister is of Per- pendicular date, with window-openings which deserve notice. The south walk is more richly groined than the east. At the south-east corner is a square turreted tower, called the " Ladies','' or " Ladye Arbour," the original purpose of which is not clear ; nor has it been possible to trace the origin of the name, which apparently has some reference to the Virgin. Some good old iron-work on a door between the cloister and the chapter-yard should be noticed. In the cloister are placed monuments for — Dr. Matthews, (with sculptured figures) ; Bishop Huntestgfokd, (died 1832) ; and Bishop Geet, (died 1837). Between the cloister and the Bishop's Palace, a re- markable chapel, which seems to have been early Nor- man, existed until it was pulled down by Bishop Egeeton, (1724 — 1746). It had an upper and a lower story, in which were altars dedicated respectively to St. Mary Magdalene and to St. Catherine. One wall alone remains, and deserves notice. Prom the east walk of the cloister a door opened to the vestibule of the chapter -house. This was ruined by the Parliamentarian troops ; and much of its stone-work was used by Bishop Bisse, (died 1721,) and by his successors until recently, for the repairs of the episcopal 108 Hmfbrir Ca%braL palace. The foundations and fragments which remain shew that it was rich Decorated, in shape a decagon, with a projecting buttress at each angle. At the south-west angle of the lesser transept is an entrance to the Yicars' Cloister ; (see § xxvn.) - XXY. The exterior of the great north transept should be especially noticed. The remarkable windows shew to great advantage from the outside, in connection with the massive buttresses, of which those at the angles are turreted, with spiral cappings. The clerestory windows are, as has already (§ xi.) been mentioned, triangular on the exterior, and resemble those in the outer wall of the triforium in the nave of Westminster. The upper window in the north wall opens from the Archive Room, (§ xxin.) The external sills of all these win- dows resemble those of the interior, (§ xi.) They were walled up, but have been restored by IVIr. Scott from original portions found embedded in the walls, partly in their places, and partly detached. The date of the central tower, which rises above this transept, has not been recorded, but it may safely be placed between 1300 and 1310. It was probably un- dertaken immediately after the completion of the north transept, and the cost of its erection, like that of the transept, was no doubt defrayed from the sums which continued to be offered at the shrine of St. Thomas Cantilupe Q . The tower (161 ft. high to the top of the n " This may account for the omission of any recorded founder or benefactor in connection with either the work of the north transept or of this tower ; for it may be generally observed, with Stanieg <%p*L Crgpi 109 pinnacles) is of two stages above the roofs, with but- tresses at the angles. (The pinnacles which cap these buttresses are modern, and date from 1830.) The arcades and window-openings, as well as the buttresses, are covered with the ball-flower ornament, which is scarcely anywhere found in such profusion as here, and in the south aisle of the nave of Gloucester ; (see that Cathedral). The Stanbery Chapel (§ xiv.) projects between the great and the eastern transept. The graceful Deco- rated window of the choir aisle, which rises above it, and the Early English arcades which cover the wall of the choir between the clerestory windows, as well as the windows themselves, (see § ix.,) should here be noticed. XXYI. On the south side of the Lady-chapel a porch opens to a staircase leading to the crypt. The porch (which is finely recessed) is, like the crypt, of the same date — Early English (see § xviii.) — as the Lady-chapel, under which it extends. The crypt ex- tends under the whole of the Lady-chapel ; and is the solitary example in an English cathedral of a crypt con- structed after the end of the eleventh century °. It is lighted by plain lancets, and consists of a nave and respect to the buildings of the Middle Ages, that, when they were carried on by their monasteries no record is preserved of the work, but only when some considerable portion of it, as a tower, a transept, or the vaulting of an aisle, was undertaken at the expense of an individual." — Willis's Report, p. 10. 0 "The English eastern crypts are Canterbury, Winchester, Gloucester, Rochester, Worcester ; — all founded before 1085. 110 fmforb Ca%bral. aisles 50 ft. long, and divided by plain clustered shafts. The crypt was repaired in 1497 by Andrew Jones, " Mer- cator hujus civitatis," whose altar-tomb, — covered with an incised slab of large dimensions and elaborate de- coration, representing the merchant and his wife — re- mains in the centre. This crypt is called the " Gol- gotha" — from its having been used as the charnel or domus carnaria — the place appropriated for the decent reception of disinterred fragments of the bodies of the defunct, and special services for the repose of their souls. Adjoining "Worcester, Norwich, and some other cathedrals, a chapel, separated from the cathedral itself, was used for this purpose. The east end of the Lady-chapel was, it must be re- membered, rebuilt by Mr. Cottingham, (§ xviii.) The gable above the five lancet windows is by no means an exact reproduction of the original, and the work is not too good. The Audley Chantry (§ xix.) projects very picturesquely on the south side of the Lady-chapel. The side pinnacles were reproduced by Mr. Scott from old drawings ; the finials are original, having been pre- served in the crypt. The existing west front of the cathedral is, as has already been said, a composition of Wyatt's, and is un- worthy of notice. The total exterior length of the church, including the buttresses, is 344 ft. After this they were discontinued, except as a continuation of former ones, as at Canterbury and Rochester. The Early English crypt of the Lady-chapel at Hereford is an exception." — Willis, Architectural History of Canterbury Cathedral, p. 71, note. Ill XXVII. On the south side of the Lady-chapel is the entrance to the College of Vicars Choral, (incor- porated in 1396,) a very picturesque quadrangle, with an inner cloister. It is for the most part Perpendicular, {circa 1474). A long cloistral walk (109 ft.) leading from the quadrangle of the college to the south-east transept of the cathedral has the oaken beams of its roof very finely carved. The episcopal palace lies south between the cathe- dral and the river Wye. It is almost entirely formed out of an ancient Norman hall with pillars of timber, and is consequently of considerable interest. In the Deanery is preserved a small reliquary, of Limoges work, dating from the early part of the thirteenth cen- tury. On it is represented the martyrdom of St. Thomas of Canterbury : on the lower part the murder, on the upper part the entombment of the saint. It no doubt contained a relic of the Archbishop. Similar reliquaries, with the same subjects, exist in the possession of the Society of Antiquaries, and of Sir Philip Egerton. HEKEFOED CATHEDEAL. PAET II. pigtorg jof % %n> foitfr %\nxt ^iotxm of t\t principal ^kfyop. A RCHBISHOP USHER asserts that Hereford was the place of an episcopal see in the first half of the sixth century, when (a.d. 544) one of its bishops was present at a synod convened by the Archbishop of Caerleon. How- ever this may have been, it is certain that the existing suc- cession of bishops dates from a.d. 676 ; when Putta, Bishop of Rochester, whose Kentish cathedral had been plundered and desolated by Ethelred of Mercia, was placed at Here- ford by Sexwulf, Bishop of Lichfield. Hereford was at this time a place of no great consequence. It lay about one mile distant from the Bo man road which ran from Magna Castra (Kenchester) to Wigornia (Worcester) ; but it was not itself a station, and its later importance arose mainly from its position on a ford of the Wye, which Athelstane fixed as the boundary between the English and Welsh, in the same manner as he made the Tamar the boundary of the English and the Cornish of "West Wales." Hereford thus became a frontier town; and one of the strongest castles on the marches of Wales rose near the cathedral, on its south side. [a.d. 676 — 688.] Putta, the first Saxon bishop, received no great wealth with the church of Hereford. He was, says Bede, "more careful about ecclesiastical than secular matters." During his rule here he taught, " wherever he vol. ni. i 114 was asked/' the chants of the Church, — those ancient Gre- gorian tones which Augustine had introduced at Canter- bury, and which Archbishop Theodorus was now carefully disseminating throughout England. The permanent establishment of Hereford as the place of an episcopal see was also the work of Archbishop Theo- dore, who after the Council at Hertford (a.d. 673) divided the great diocese of Mercia, as he had done that of East Anglia, into several bishoprics. (See Lichfield, Pt. II.) Of the bishops of Hereford between (688—1012) Putta and iEthelstan little is recorded beyond their names. Ctjth- bert (736 — 740) is an exception. In the latter year he was translated to Canterbury. (See that Cathedral, Pt. II.) It was during his archiepiscopate that the Lord's Prayer and the Creed were ordered to be universally taught in English. [a.d. 1012 — 1056.] iETHELSTAN, (" vir magnae sanctitatis," according to Elorence of Worcester,) rebuilt his cathedral from the foundations. He was blind for thirteen years before his death; and the affairs of his diocese were ad- ministered by Tremerig, Bishop of St. David's. In 1055, the year before Bishop iEthelstan's death, the town of Hereford (Herefordport as it is called in the Saxon Chro- nicle 1 ) was harried by a large body of Irish and Welsh, under iElfgar, the exiled Earl of Mercia. " They burned the town," says the Chronicle ; " and the great mynstre which the venerable Bishop iEthelstan had before caused to be built, that they plundered, and bereaved of relics and of vestments, and of all things ; and slew the folk, and led some awayV In the following year Bishop iEthelstan died, and was buried in this desolated church. a " Port strictly means an enclosed place for sale or purchase — a market." — Kemble. b Angl.-Sax. Chron., ed. Thorpe, s. ann. 1055. Another version of the Chronicle asserts that the minster was burned, and it is pro- bable that it was greatly ruined. (See post, Bishop Losing. ) The great treasure of iEthelstan's minster was the body of St. Ethelbeut, King of East Anglia ; whose head, says the Saxon Chronicle, was " stricken off by the command of Offa, King of the Mercians, a.d. 792." This is the only notice of Ethelbert in the Chronicle; and Florence of Worcester is almost as brief. We know nothing of the real history of Ethelbert. Later accounts asserted that he was murdered at Sutton's Walls, a chief palace of the Mercian kings, about eight miles from Hereford, where he had gone at the invitation of Offa, who had offered him the hand of his daughter Elfrida. His body was secretly in- terred at Marden, close to Sutton's Walls. Three nights afterwards, Ethelbert appeared to a certain Brithfrid, and telling him where he had been buried, ordered him to re- move his body to the " chapel of Our Lady at Fernlege," — generally supposed, but without much authority, to have been on the site of the existing cathedral of Hereford. Brithfrid obeyed; and the translation took place, not without the occurrence of miracles on the way. Many others followed. The murdered king of the East Angles was recognised as a saint; and a sumptuous monument was raised over his remains by Offa, in token of his peni- tence. Bishop jEthelstan translated the relics into his new Collier, Eccles. Hist., bk. vi. cent. 14. Sps. fefonant to Stanbrg. 127 a.d. 1389 — 1404.] John Trevenant : sent on an embassy to Rome by Henry IY. in 1400. a.d. 1404 — 1416.] Robert Mas call : had been a Car- melite friar at Ludlow; whence he proceeded to Oxford, and there, by his learning, attracted the notice of Henry IV., who employed him on various embassies. He built great part of the church of the Carmelites in London, where he was buried. Bishop Mascall was present with Bishop Hallam of Salisbury, at the Council of Constance, 1415, 1416. a.d. 1417, trans, to Exeter 1420.] Edmund Lacy. (See Exeter Cathedral, Pt. II.) a.d. 1420, trans, to Chichester 1421.] Thomas Polton, Dean of York. From Chichester he passed to Worcester in 1426. a.d. 1422—1448.] Thomas Spoeeord, Abbot of St. Mary's at York ; to which monastery he returned in 1448, having resigned his see. " The record of his abdication is printed in Rymer's Fosdera, vol. x. p. 215 : in Wilkins's Concilia, vol. hi. p. 538, is a writ of pardon for abdicating in favour of his successor, who was to allow him one hundred pounds yearly out of the revenues. The Pope testified by his bull that Spofford had expended on the buildings of his cathe- dral upwards of two thousand eight hundred marks k ." No part of the cathedral itself can be of Bishop Spoffbrd's time ; but possibly he erected the cloisters. a.d. 1449, trans, to Salisbury 1450.] Richard Beauchamp. For this Bishop, one of the best architects of his time, — the superintendent of the works at St. George's Chapel, Windsor, — see Salisbury Cathedral, Pt. II. a.d. 1451, trans, to Lichfield 1453.] Reginald Boulers, Abbot of Gloucester. a.d. 1453—1477.] John Stanbery, translated to Hereford from Bangor. Bishop Stanbery was born at Stanbery, in the parish of Morwenstow, on the north coast of Cornwall ; k Britton. 128 gj mforfc Ca%tal. and bequeathed a "cross of silver gilt" to his baptismal church there. " He was bred," says Fuller, " a Carmelite in Oxford, and became generally as learned as any of his order, deserving all the dignity which the University did or could confer on him. King Henry the Sixth highly favoured, and made him the first Provost of Eton; being much ruled by his advice in ordering that, his new foun- dation. He was by the King designed Bishop of Norwich, but William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, got it from him for his own chaplain, and Stanbery was fain to stay his stomach on the poor bishopric of Bangor, till, anno 1453, he was advanced Bishop of Hereford 1 ." The Bishop was faithful to Henry YI. throughout his adversity, but was taken prisoner after the battle of Northampton, (July, 1460,) and was long confined in Warwick Castle. After his release he retired to the Carmelite monastery at Lud- low, and died there in May, 147 4. He was interred in his own cathedral, in the chantry which he had built and en- dowed during his life. (Pt. I. § xiv.) [a.d. 1474—1492.] Thomas Milling, Abbot of Westminster, Privy Councillor of Edward IV., and godfather to his son, Edward Y. He was buried at Westminster, where a stone coffin remains which is supposed to have contained his body. [a.d. 1492, trans, to Salisbury 1502.] Edmund Audley. (See Salisbury, Pt. II.) During his tenure of the see of Here- ford he constructed the chantry on the south side of the Lady-chapel. (Pt. I. § xix.) He was interred in the chan- try he afterwards built at Salisbury. [a.d. 1502, trans, to Bath and Wells 1504.] Hadrian de Castello, who had been entrusted by Henry VII. with the management of all business between England and the Papal Court, received both his English bishoprics at Home, 1 Worthies — Devonshire. Fuller gives Churchill, in the parish of Bratton, as Stanbery's birthplace ; but the bequest in his will ren- ders it certain that he was born at Stanbery in Morwenstow. §p t Pagefu to Sfcxjr. 129 and never saw either. (See, for a fuller notice of him, Wells Cathedral, Pt. II.) [a.d. 1504 — 1516.] Richard Mayew, Archdeacon of Oxford, President of Magdalen College, and Chancellor of the Uni- versity, was Henry the Seventh's Almoner, and was sent to Spain in order to conduct Catherine of Arragon to England. He received the bishopric of Hereford after his return. His fine tomb and effigy remain on the south side of the choir. (Pt. I. § xxi.) [a.d. 1516 — 1535.] Charles Booth, Chancellor of the "Welsh Marches, is best known as the builder of the north porch of his cathedral at Hereford. His tomb adjoins it. (Pt. I. § VII.) [a.d. 1535—1539.] Edward Eox, Provost of King's Col- lege, Cambridge, Almoner to Henry VIIL, by whom he was employed on various embassies. It was Eox who first introduced Cranmer to the King, and Euller calls him 153 courts has a somewhat similar heading. The same architect, it is probable, was employed for both castle and cathedral, though whether this was Abbot Knowle himself must remain uncertain. (The monastery at Bristol was, it should be remembered, the burial-place of the Berkeleys, and uuder their especial patronage.) A tomb, with a similar canopy, exists in the south aisle of the nave in the cathedral of St. David's, and is assigned to Bishop Gower (1328 — 1347); whose work, in another part of his cathedral, has also its counterpart at Bristol, (see § xi.) With these excep- tions, this remarkable design is confined to Bristol Cathedral. On a brass plate let into the wall below Abbot New- land's tomb is an inscription (copied exactly from his tombstone, on which it had nearly become illegible) recording the place of interment of Bishop Btttlee : — "Qualis, quantusque vir erat, sua libentissime agnovit setas. Et si quid Praesuli aut Scriptori ad famam valent Mens altissima, Ingenii perspicacis et subacti vis, Ani- musque pius, simplex, candidus, liberalis, mortui haud facile evanescet memoria." On the north side of the chancel are two of Abbot Knowle' s decorated recesses. Within that nearest the altar is the effigy of this abbot himself, the rebuilder of the greater part of his church. It was Abbot Knowle who refused to receive the murdered body of Edward II., — which was afterwards interred in the abbey church of Gloucester, (see that Cathedral,) to the infinite ad- vantage of the Benedictines there. In the lower recess 154 §mtal Ca%taaL is the effigy of Abbot Newberry, a great benefactor to the church, who died in 1463. VIII. In passing into the north choir-aisle the eye is at once attracted by the vaulting of the roof, which is altogether unusual. [Plate II.] The choir and its aisles are of the same height; and "to carry out this arrangement the following ingenious construction has been adopted. A transom, as we must call it, has been thrown across the aisles from the outer walls to the capitals of the choir-pillars. These are supported on arches springing from attached shafts on each side of the aisle, and in the spandrils formed by these are lesser arches, so that the transom is supported by the points of three arches. Prom the centre of the transom springs a vaulting-shaft which carries the groining of the roof. A horizontal buttress is thus obtained, which receives the thrust of the groining of the choir, and carries it across the aisle to the external buttress. We cannot but perceive that the principles of carpentry are here employed, and it is an arrangement we should find in wooden construction, though we are surprised to see it carried out in stone 11 ." The vaulting of both aisles is the same. The windows, which have transoms, are especially to be noticed for the beauty of their Deco- rated tracery. A stringcourse, with the ball-flower, runs immediately under them in each aisle. The east windows of the choir-aisles are filled with glass coloured with enamels, in accordance with the u The Rev. J. Eccles Carter, in the Bristol vol. of the Archaeo- logical Institute. BRISTOL CATHEDRAL. PLATE II. VAULTING OF SOUTH AISLE Iltflmmrntts in Ifartlj Cfroir-aisk 155 practice of the seventeenth century, instead of glass coloured in its manufacture. They date from the reign of Charles II. ; and although it is traditionally said that they were presented by Nell Gwynne, it is more probable that they were the offerings of Henry Glem- ham, Dean of Bristol from 1661 to 1667, and afterwards Bishop of St. Asaph. The arms of Glemham (Or, a chev- ron gules between three torteaux) are repeated three times in the window of the south aisle, and once in that of the north. The subjects (arranged as type and anti- type) in the north aisle are — in the centre, the Resur- rection ; below, Jonah delivered from the whale. On the right, above, the Ascension; below, Elijah taken up to heaven. On the left, above, the Agony in the garden; below, Abraham about to offer up his son. Much of the original enamelled glass has been lately replaced by "pot glass." Under this window is an elaborate Jacobean monu- ment for Robert Codrington, of Codrington, (died 1618) ; restored by Sir Bethel Codrington in 1840, when it was happily removed from the chancel. The figures kneel under a kind of tent, the curtains of which are held back by dumpy cherubs. In front is a marble figure, by Bailey, of Harriet Isabella, wife of John Middleton, of Clifton, (died 1826). The figure, which kneels, with the hands clasped on the breast, is grace- ful, and far more appropriate than most others of its class. At the side, and under the first bay of the choir, is the tomb of Paul Bush, (died 1558,) the first Bishop of Bristol. (See Part II.) A cadaver rests 156 §xhtal CatytoJ. under a canopy supported on shafts. Under the win- dow, in this first bay, is Bailey's very fine bust of Eobert Sottthey, "born at Bristol, October, 1774;" behind it is one of Abbot Knowle's recesses. The second bay contains a similar recess. In the third is a monument for William Powell, the trage- dian, (died 1769). The window above is half blocked by the wall of the Lady- chapel, (§ ix.) The lower part is disfigured by hideous monuments. The fourth and fifth bays open into the Lady-chapel, (§ ix.,) of earlier date than the existing choir, which was accordingly connected with it, as at present, by Abbot Knowle. In the fourth bay, between the choir and the Lady-chapel, is a high altar-tomb with effigies, under a groined canopy. The effigies are no doubt those of Maurice, Lord Berkeley, who died in 1368, and Elizabeth his wife. Over the armour of the male figure is a surcoat with the Berkeley arms. The helmeted head rests on an abbatial mitre, (the crest of the Berkeleys, — assumed in reference to their ex- tensive Church patronage). The lady wears the veiled head-dress. On the west side of the arch is an in- scription which seems to assign this monument to Eobert Fitzhardinge, founder of the monastery; but although it has been suggested that it may have been erected by the Berkeleys in the fourteenth century, as a memorial of their ancestor, there is every reason to believe that it has been rightly assigned to Maurice, ninth baron of Berkeley, himself. The groined canopy above this monument, and a fabg-t&Hpd. 157 similar one in the next bay, should be noticed. The panelling of the vault is carried on three small brackets, springing from the wall. In the third bay of this aisle a door opens to a stair- case (already noticed, § v.) leading through the trifo- rium passage between the Lady-chapel and the choir, to the tower. The corbels in this staircase are Norman, and shew it to have been part of Eitzhardinge's church. IX. The Lady- chapel (generally called the Elder Lady-chapel, — because the altar of the Virgin was removed to the east end of the church after Abbot Knowle had rebuilt the choir, see § v.) is entered from the north-east corner of the transept, and from the College Green through a Perpendicular doorway in the westernmost bay, made by Abbot Somerset, (1526 — 1530). On the spandrils are the arms of Berkeley, and those of the monastery, (Sable, three ducal crowns in pale or — this coat is still used for the see,) impaled with those of Somerset. The chapel is Early English, and dates, according to Mr. Godwin, from the time of Abbot Joh^, (1196—1215). "The mouldings are of the very boldest and earliest form of section, consisting of alternate rounds and hollows, with few intermediate fillets .... In fact, the whole character of the north wall, a great part of the casing on the south side .... and the arch opening to the north transept, indicate a very early period of Gothic architecture 0 ." The chapel is of four bays, the win- 0 Godwin, p. 47. Mr. Godwin suggests that the expense of building the chapel "may possibly have been defrayed by Robert 158 §xktol fafytftntL dows in which are triplets with inner arches, of which those at the sides are gracefully foliated. The de- tached vaulting- shafts are of Purheck marble. The sculpture of the capitals and stringcourses is unusually good ; and the spandrils of the wall-arcade are filled with grotesque designs which are full of spirit and character, greatly resembling the sculpture in Wells Cathedral, much of which is of the same date. Re- mark especially — a goat blowing a horn, and carrying a hare slung over his back; a ram and an ape play- ing on musical instruments ; and St. Michael with the dragon (?) ; below is a fox carrying off a goose. The foliage introduced in these is of pure Early English character. The arches of the triforium, on the south side of the chapel, resemble those of the windows opposite, but "on looking carefully at the south side, we see that the whole of the first Early English work has been reconstructed. In order to bring in two arches of communication to the choir-aisle, there has been a wholesale shifting of the last bay of the lower arcade eastward ; the upper arcade, corresponding to the win- dows on the opposite side, has been cut short, and a stringcourse of the same character as the vault- ing-ribs has been built in p ." This was either the work of Abbot Knowle, or of Hugh de Dodingtox, (1287 — 1294); in which latter case it would appear Berkeley, by whose munificence, Dugdale informs us, the pos- sessions of the house had been much increased." p Godwin, p. 50. &mtljy Clwr-akle. 159 that the design of rebuilding the choir had been formed some time before Knowle actually commenced it. The east wall and window of the Elder Lady-chapel, and the groined roof, are of early Decorated (geometrical) character, and are fairly assigned to Abbot Hugh. In this chapel is a tablet with Mason's lines in memory of his wife, (died 1767,) which deserve to be read. X. The south choir-aisle (part of Abbot Knowle's work) precisely resembles the north aisle in its vault- ing and general character, with the exception of the western bay, which Mr. Godwin assigns to Knowle's successor, Abbot Snow, (1332 — 1341). " The vaulting- shaft is not detached, as are the others, nor is the string continued ; the vaulting is different from the rest, being nothing more than a plain pointed barrel- vault running across the aisle, upon which the ribs are placed, being merely imitative, to match the other bays, where they really serve a practical object, and strengthen the longitudinal intersections which give such lightness to these aisles. The mouldings, too, of these ribs are more clumsy than in the other com- partments, and the whole bay looks bungled q ." Three of- the windows in this aisle have been filled with stained glass by Bell of Bristol, which can hardly be com- mended. The enamelled glass in the east window is of the same date as that in the corresponding window in the north aisle, (§ vin.) The subjects are — in the centre, above, Our Lord Driving the Money-changers i Godwin, p. 55. 160 gristol from the Temple ; below, Jacob's Dream; on the right above, the Tribute Money; below, Helchisedec and Abraham; the subject on the left above is uncertain; below, the Sacrifice of Gideon. Under this window is a bad modern monument. In the third and fourth bays from the east, within two of Abbot Knowle's recesses, are effigies of two of the Berkeleys. The most western of these is that of Thomas, Loed Berkeley, [Plate III.,] who died in 1243. He wears the long surcoat, over a hawberk of mail, under which appears the haketon, which is not often seen. His poleyns, or knee-caps, should also be noticed. On his left arm is a shield with the Berkeley bearings. He is cross-legged, possibly from his hav- ing been a Knight Templar, which order he was com- pelled to enter by the King, Henry III. The effigy in the next recess is that of the second Matteice, Loed Beekeley, (died 1281). Some ancient colouring was discovered on these effigies. On the label and on the inner moulding of one of these recesses the mistletoe is represented. It has never more than two leaves, and has a berry at the foot-stalk. This is perhaps a solitary instance of the use of this plant, always regarded as mystical, in ecclesiastical decoration. The great abundance of mistletoe in the orchards of Somer- setshire and Gloucestershire probably led to its em- ployment here, as a local plant. XI. In this arch, in the second bay from the east, a door opens to a small ante-chamber, through which a chapel called the Berkeley Chapel, and now serving %\t §ixfah% Cl^ptl 161 as a vestry, is approached. The ante- chamber is curious and unusual. On the southern side are three ogee arches, with niches between them. The finials of these arches, and the ornaments in the spandrils, are of large and elaborately worked leafage. Other niches or recesses, the use of which is uncertain, occur over the door, and in the north-east corner. The roof, " with its detached curved ribs, reminds us again (see § viii.) of the principles of carpentry applied to stone," and may be compared with the " skeleton" vaulting under the roodloft in St. David's Cathedral, the work of Bishop Gowee, (1328—1347). Bound the label of the doorway entering the chapel is a remarkable moulding, in which the ammonite is represented. This fossil, which is sometimes represented in the churches of the chalk districts, (as in St. Mary's Church, Guildford,) occurs in profusion in the oolite quarries at Keyn- sham on the Severn, between Bath and Bristol, where St. Keyne is said to have occupied an hermitage, and to have turned into stone all the serpents with which the district was infested. It has accordingly been sug- gested that one of the altars in the adjoining chapel was dedicated to her. The chapel itself is, to all appearance, of later date than Abbot Knowle's work, and Mr. Godwin suggests that it may have been erected by Thomas de Berkeley after the death of his wife Margaret in 1337. There are two windows toward the east, the soffetes of which are ornamented with a gigantic ball-flower; and the peculiar foliage on some of the capitals should be re- vol. in. m 162 §xhiol marked. Under each of the windows was an altar, the steps and piscinae of which remain. The altars were separated by a screen, the marks of which were visible in the old pavement. Between the chapel and the aisle the wall is pierced by the peculiar arch of Abbot Knowle; and under it, in the thickness of the wall, is an altar-tomb, much ornamented, and containing five shields, charged with coats of the Berkeley, Ferrers, and De Quincey families. The tomb in its present state is no doubt that of Thomas, Lord Berkeley, (died 1321,) whose wives were of those families; but the lower part, with its very fine foliage, is of Early English date, and may possibly have been removed from another part of the church. The Berkeley arms occur also in the spandrils of the door of the ante- chamber. XII. Opening from the westernmost bay of this aisle is a chapel known as the Newton Chapel, (from mem- bers of that family who are buried there,) which is also assigned by Mr. Godwin to the time of Abbot Snow, (1332 — 1341). Its architecture " returns to somewhat of the form of the geometrical, but with unmistakable signs of the approach of the last great Gothic change which occurred about the middle of the fourteenth century." The south wall divides it from the chapter- house, (§ xiii.,) with which it is parallel. It has, however, been much altered, and the arches, half cut off, in the south and west walls shew that it was in- terfered with when the transept was completed. In this chapel are monuments for Sir Richard Cradock, BRISTOL CATHEDRAL. PLATE IV. THE CHAPTER-HOUSE. %\t €\^\zx-\qvlu 163 Justice of the Common Pleas, (died 1444,) — the monu- ment was repaired in 1748, — and seventeenth-century monuments for members of the Newton family ; ugly structures, but good examples of their time. Here is also a monument by Westmacott for Elizabeth Stan- hope, (died 1816) ; and one by Bailey for Bishop Gkay, (died 1834) ; a medallion supported by angels. XIII. A door in the west wall of the south transept leads to the remains of the cloisters, from which the vestibule of the chapter-house is entered. Both vesti- bule and chapter- house are transition Norman, and belong to the original building of Eitzhardinge : but to its second, or richer, period. (See § n., note.) In the vestibule the arches from north to south are round, whilst those from east to west are pointed. The nail- head moulding runs round the arches, and the capitals are cushioned. The chapter -house itself, [Plate IV.,] which is greatly enriched with zigzag and cable mouldings, is at present of two bays, but was originally of three, as has been shewn by Mr. Godwin from the measure- ments of William of "Wyrcestre, confirmed by the " construction of the south-east angle, as seen at the time the present east wall was built." It is a paral- lelogram, (like others of the earlier English chapter- houses, as Oxford, Gloucester, Exeter ,. and Chester,) the dimensions of which are now 42 ft. by 25, but originally were 71 ft. by 25. In the east wall (which is recent) are three windows. In the west wall, below, are three circular arches, that in the centre being 164 grfetol .d. 1761—1782.] Thomas Newton. [a.d. 1782, translated to Norwich 1783.] Lewis Bagot. [a.d. 1783 — 1792.] Christopher Wilson. [a.d. 1792, translated to Peterborough 1794.] Spenser Madan. "a.d. 1794, translated to Exeter 1797.] Henry Reginald COURTENAY. "a.d. 1797, translated to Hereford 1803.] Eeolliott Herbert Walker Cornewall. "a.d. 1803, translated to Exeter 1807.] George Pelham. "a.d. 1807, translated to Hereford 1808.] John Luxmoore. [a.d. 1808—1820.] William Lort Mansell. "a.d. 1820, translated to Lincoln 1827.] John Kaye. [a.d. 1827 — 1834.] Robert Gray. During his episcopate, in 1831, the great riots of Bristol occurred. The palace was destroyed, and the Chapter library burnt, with all the records of the cathedral. 180 §xmtol Cat^bral. [a.d. 1834, translated to Ely 1836.] Joseph Allen. On the translation of Bishop Allen, the diocese of Bristol, which had been, from its first establishment, one of the poorest in England, was united to that of Gloucester. The bishops of the united sees have been : — [a.d. 1836—1856.] James Henry Monk. [a.d. 1856, translated to Durham 1861.] Charles Baring. [a.d. 1861, translated to York 1862.] William Thomson. [a.d. 1863.] Charles J. Ellicott. WORCESTER CATHEDRAL. TOMB OF KING JOHN. REFERENCES. A North Porch. B Nave. C C Nave-aisles. D Central Tower. E South Transept. F North Transept. G Choir. H South Choir-aisle. J Chapel. K South-east Transept. L L L Retro-choir and Aisles. M Altar of the Lady-chapel. N North-east Transept. O North Choir-aisle. P Cloisters. Q