DESCRIPTION 
 
 HUTCHINGS’ • 
 
 ‘ * 0 
 
 GRAND CLASSICAL PANORAMA 
 
 THE SEA AND SHORES 
 
 0 F 
 
 THE 
 
 EXECUTED BY A. HEWINS, 
 
 ♦ * 
 
 FROM THE ORIGINAL ORAVYINoS mark by ttiat artist upon the spot, expressly 
 I OR THE PURPOSE, DUKIXO HIS RESIDENCE AT GIBRALTAR, HIS VOYAGES IN 
 THE MEDITERRANEAN, AND HIS TRAVELS IN SPAIN, FRANCE, AND ITALY. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 GEORGE C. RAND AND COMPANY’S PRINTING HOUSE, COENIIILL. 
 
 1 848 . 
 
TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 Perhaps there is no method by which instruction and amusement can 
 be so happily blended and imparted, as by means of illustrations and 
 lectures combined. 
 
 The well conceived and finished painting fills thft eye, while the 
 voice of the speaker penetrates the car and secures the attention of the 
 spectator. 
 
 It is surprising, that illustrations and lectures have not been employed 
 to a greater extent — hand in hand — for the promotion of education or 
 the advancement of knowledge. 
 
 The interest, the force, and utility — the very pleasure—all the 
 effect of the best prepared discourse, may be augmented many fold, 
 through the medium of appropriate, elegant, or admiz'ably designed and 
 executed illustrations. 
 
 Impressed by experience with the truth and importance of these con¬ 
 clusions, ami desirous of contributing something to learning and the 
 arts, and with the hope of proving to the world that the characteristics, 
 even the great geographic features, of foreign lands may be accurate¬ 
 ly traced by an American pencil, and successfully depicted by an 
 American artist, as the not less remarkable though more familiar scenery 
 of our own native soil, 1 now present to the public, 
 
 THE 
 
 (IRANI) CLASSICAL PANORAMA OP THE 
 AND SHORES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. 
 
 SEA 
 
 The Idea of this new and extensive Panorama, originated with our 
 countryman, Mr. A. IIewins, of Boston. The design of it is his alone ; 
 and the whole work has been executed under the superintendence of 
 that indefatigable and accomplished artist — with such aid as could be 
 afforded by one of his pupils and myself. 
 
 And this new and great Panorama has been executed from drawings 
 made upon the spot, expressly for the purpose, by Mr. IIewins himself. 
 The first drawing was taken in 1830 ; and the remaining drawings in 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2019 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 https://archive.org/details/descriptionofhutOOhewi 
 
4 
 
 1'uat yc-ar and in 1831, 1832, 1S33, 1841 and 1842 — while Mr. Hewins 
 resided at Gibraltar, in the course of his different voyages up and down 
 the Mediterranean Sea; during his studies as a Portrait and Historical 
 Painter at the Royal Academies of Painting, and the practice of his 
 profession in Spain, France, and Italy ; and during his travels in those 
 kingdoms,* and other portions of the Old World. While thus making 
 his drawings in the several countries and during the years above men¬ 
 tioned, Mr. Hewins was also collecting, as opportunity permitted, all 
 such information as might be of service in the performance of his task ; 
 and both then and since bis return to the place <>f his nativity, he has 
 consulted from time to time, the productions of the most celebrated 
 authors and artists, and compared them with his own original sketches, 
 notes, drawings, and observations, with the view of rendering his labors 
 as truthful, complete, and successful as possible. 
 
 Hav iug thus gathered together all his materials, instead of proceed¬ 
 ing with them here, he was about preparing to go elsewhere, when his 
 general design was communicated to me. Struck with its originality, 
 variety, and magnitude, 1 at once entered into an arrangement with him 
 for its immediate completion and production in the United States. 
 
 It is now done. It is the first and only Panorama of the Sea and 
 Shores of the Mediterranean ever painted. 
 
 It is the only Panorama of “ coasts, cities, countries, and sea beyond 
 the oceans,” ever executed by native artists. 
 
 And it is one of the most comprehensive and diversified, as well as 
 extensive Panoramas, ever presented to the public. 
 
 Indeed, no pains nor expense has been spared to render it not only 
 worthy of the vastness and grandeur of the subject, but superior in 
 every respect to anything of the kind heretofore known or attempted. 
 
 But its artislicul merits must speak for themselves; and leaving them 
 to do so, the attention of the reader is now invited to the subjoined brief 
 descriptions of the principal cities, towns, and places, the scenery, and 
 other objects represented upon the canvass. 
 
 W. E. Hutchings. 
 
 * There were several American painters in France, Spain and Italy, when Mr. Hewins 
 resided in those countries; but it is believed that no other American artist has visited so 
 many parts of Spain, or made so many voyages in the Mediterranean, as Mr. Hewins. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
DESCRIPTION. 
 
 The Panorama is composed of four grand divisions ; 
 and the most prominent features of each division will be 
 briefly spoken of in their natural order, after the following- 
 remarks upon 
 
 THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA. 
 
 It lias been well said In an eminent writer, that, to the 
 scholar and classical traveller, the Mediterranean has the 
 most powerful attractions. Her shores were the earliest 
 seats of art, science, and civilization. She has been sur¬ 
 rounded and occupied by the most renowned nations of 
 antiquity; and her coasts and islands have still to boast 
 the ruins of some of the noblest and most splendid cities 
 of the ancient world. In short, to use the language of 
 Dr. Johnson, - The (fraud object of all travelling , is to see 
 the shores of the Mediterranean. On these shores were 
 the four great empires of the world: the Assyrian, the 
 Persian, the Grecian, and the Roman. All our religion, 
 almost all our law, almost all our arts, almost all that sets 
 u?5 above savages, has come to us from the shores of the 
 M editerranoan.” 
 
 This great and important inland sea. is bounded N. In 
 Europe. E. In Asia, and S. by Africa, communicating at 
 its W. extremitv, bv the Straits of Gibraltar, with the N. 
 Atlantic Ocean, and at its N. E. extremity, by the Darda¬ 
 nelles and Bosphorus, with tin- Euxinc ; its greatest length 
 being 2,300 miles, and its greatest breadth 1,200; and its 
 area nearly 690,000 square miles. It is of an oblong but 
 irregular shape, particularly on its N. side, into which pro- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
6 
 
 ject the two extensive peninsulas of Italy and Greece, 
 dividing the waters into not less than three basins ; the 
 most westerly is included between the straits of Gibraltar 
 and the passage but 72 miles broad between C. Boeo and 
 C. Bon; the central from the last mentioned points to the 
 meridian of C. Matapan ; while the eastern comprises the 
 Grecian Archipelago and the waters washing Karamania. 
 Syria, and Egypt. The bays of Lyons, Genoa, and Naples, 
 are the principal inlets of the W. basin. It contains the Ba¬ 
 learic group, off the coast of Spain, and many other islands. 
 The coasts are remarkable for difference of altitude and 
 diversity of outline. Now steep and bold, now low and 
 shelving—here and there varied by rocky headlands. The 
 submarine rocks and projecting shoals of sand and mud of 
 portions of the S. side contrast strikingly with the X., where 
 in general deep soundings may be had close inshore ; while 
 in parts, between Nice and Genoa and near Gibraltar, no 
 soundings can be found under 1,000 fathoms or more. 
 
 The principal feeders are the Rhone, Ebro, Po, and Nile, 
 with the waters urged from the Black sea by the strong 
 current which sets west through the Dardanelles. The 
 supply from these sources is vast, yet the evaporation is so 
 rapid that water constantly passes in through the Straits of 
 Gibraltar to restore the equilibrium. It is not strictly a 
 tideless sea, as has of old been concluded ; for at Naples, 
 and on both shores of the last mentioned straits, there is 
 an ebb and flow of three feet and upwards, besides an ebb 
 and flow in other quarters; but whether these are attrib¬ 
 utable to lunar or other influences, is not known. 
 
 In the straits of Gibraltar the main current sets east¬ 
 ward, at a rate of from three to five miles an hour; and 
 an under-current has long been supposed to run in an op¬ 
 posite direction. The winds are extremely variable, and 
 three or four vessels may occasionally be seen with their 
 flags flying in opposite directions at the same time. The 
 Bom, the Tramountain, and the Sirocco winds, are peculiar 
 to this sea. Volcanic phenomena have frequently been 
 observed, and electric fluid abounds in the atmosphere. 
 
 In the scriptures the Mediterranean is terauxl, “ The 
 Great Sea.” Herodotus styles it u The Sea ; ” and Strabo 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ci The Sea within the columns ; ” meaning the pillars of 
 Hercules. In all probability it witnessed the first attempt 
 at navigation — being, from the general smoothness of its 
 waters, the proximity of its shores, and the multitude of its 
 islands, extremely favorable to the infant navigation of the 
 world —when, from their ignorance of the compass, men 
 feared to lose a view of the coast, and from the imperfec¬ 
 tion in the art of ship-building, to abandon themselves to 
 the boisterous waves of the ocean. At all events it was nav¬ 
 igated and its islands occupied in the remotest antiquity. 
 It was subsequently traversed in all directions by the Phe- 
 nicians and their descendants, the Carthagenians, and in a 
 later period by the Greeks and Romans. In the middle 
 ages, and down to the discovery of America, it was the 
 grand centre of the navigation and commerce of the old 
 world; while, from that day to the present, the ships of 
 all nations have whitened it; * and many of its merchants, 
 engrossing from time to time large portions of its trade, 
 have attained to princely fortunes and distinction. The 
 ensign of Liberty is now waving upon that sea. The vast 
 changes it is undergoing, the mighty revolutions that are 
 at this moment sweeping along its borders, seem to indi¬ 
 cate that the period is approaching for the fulfilment of 
 the prophecy, that, in wonders and glory, the Mediterra¬ 
 nean shall outstrip all its ancient splendor and greatness. 
 
 FIRST DIVISION. 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 Situated in the southern extremity of Spain, in the prov¬ 
 ince of Andalusia, at the entrance from the Atlantic to the 
 Mediterranean, in hit. 36° 7' north, long. 5° 19' 4 U west, it 
 extends from north to south between seven an eight miles, 
 is nearly half a mile in breadth, and rises at least 1,450 
 feet from the sea. It is every where precipitous, and in 
 
 * More than one hundred vessels may at times be seen passing through the straits of 
 Gibraltar at once. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
8 
 
 many parts perpendicular. Nature and art combined have 
 rendered it the most formidable fortress in the world. It 
 is now in the possession of the English, having been cap¬ 
 tured from the Spanish, in 1704, by the British squadron 
 under Sir George Rook. 
 
 This promontory has been celebrated from remote an¬ 
 tiquity ; its ancient name was ('alpe. On the African 
 coast opposite is another promontory called Abyla, These 
 two promontories were styled by the ancients, “ The Pil¬ 
 lars of Hercules; ” probably to indicate the termi nation 
 here of his various labors. * 
 
 The noble bay of Gibraltar, nine miles long and five 
 broad, forms a most important naval station. On the east 
 are the promontory and isthmus ; to the south is the sea ; 
 to the west and north is the main land of Spain; but the 
 promontory wholly commands the bay. 
 
 The town of Gibraltar is situated at the foot of the prom¬ 
 ontory on its north-west side; and, though fortified in it¬ 
 self its chief protection is derived from the batteries on the 
 neighboring heights, which sweep both the isthmus and 
 the approach to the town by water. The population of the 
 town, exclusive of the garrison, is 13,000 — composed of 
 Englishmen, Spaniards, Italians, Jews, and Moors, all at¬ 
 tracted by mercantile enterprise. The place is a general 
 port of entry for the manufactures of England, and other 
 produce, such as sugar, tobacco, rice, flour, wine, silk, 
 fruits, and wax. The chief public buildings are the navy 
 hospital, victualling office, the barracks, and the house of 
 the Lieut. Governor. The places of worship are an Eng¬ 
 lish church, a Catholic chapel, and three synagogues. 
 There is also a theatre, and, what is of great importance 
 to officers stationed in this secluded spot, a Garrison Li¬ 
 brary. The town was nearly destroyed during the mem¬ 
 orable siege of the combined powers of Spain and France 
 in 1781-2. An English squadron arriving with rein¬ 
 forcements compelled the enemy to convert the siege into 
 a mere blockade, which terminated on the 20th of Janua¬ 
 ry, 1783, when peace was signed at Versailles. The vet¬ 
 eran General Elliot received distinguished honors for his 
 heroic defence of this invulnerable fortress ; one of the 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
9 
 
 brightest and most envied gems in the naval crown of 
 Great Britain. Immense sums have been expended by 
 the English in constructing new batteries and making ex¬ 
 tensive excavations to establish communications between 
 the different ports, and more than a thousand cannon are 
 mounted within these excavations and galleries. The 
 present pence establishment amounts to about 5,000 
 troops, and in case of invasion 15,000 can be mustered 
 within the fortresses and excavations. The support of 
 this fortification alone is a yearly expense of 40,000 
 pounds sterling. 
 
 With these brief remarks, we leave the Bock of Gibral¬ 
 tar, standing as it has stood for ages, in all its grand and 
 gloomy sublimity. 
 
 “ And leave the deep aud quiet bay, 
 
 To ternpt the ocean wave: 
 
 And o’er the water? hold our way, 
 
 Which classic region? lave. - ’ 
 
 CEUTA, 
 
 Is a seaport town of X. Africa, in the possession of 
 Spain, coast of Morocco, directly opposite Gibraltar, and 
 at the S. E. extremity of the straits, on a narrow peninsu¬ 
 la, stretching about three miles E. X. E. into the Mediter¬ 
 ranean, and having a capacious bay on its S., and a small¬ 
 er one on its N. side. The E. part of the peninsula is 
 occupied by the mountain of Almina, on the highest point 
 of which is the castle of Ceuta, 14 miles S. by E. from 
 Europe point; lat. 45° 54' 4" X., long. 5° 11' W. This 
 mountain, which towards the sea is fenced round by in¬ 
 accessible rocks, is the Ain la Proper of the ancients, and 
 is famous as one of the pillars of Hercules; the rock of 
 Gibraltar being the other. The citadel, a verv strong 
 fort, is built across tin* narrowest and lowest part of the 
 peninsula, at its junction with the main land. The town 
 immediately to the E. of the citadel, is situated at the 
 foot and on the declivity of the mountain. Population, 
 besides the garrison, 9,'241. Ceuta has many points of 
 resemblance with Gibraltar, and like it, if properly garri- 
 
10 
 
 soncd, would be all but impregnable. It is well supplied 
 with water, is the seat of a bishopric, has a cathedral, two 
 convents, a hospital, a baqne or prison for criminals em¬ 
 ployed on the public works, with schools, &c. It is also 
 used for the confinement of State prisoners. It is the 
 most important of all the Spanish presidios, or settlements 
 in Africa, and is the seat of a military governor, a royal 
 tribunal, and a financial intendant. Most of the provis¬ 
 ions and other necessaries required for the supply of the 
 town and garrison are brought from Spain. Ceuta was 
 taken from the Moors, by John, King of Portugal, in 1415. 
 Since 1640 it has belonged to Spain. It lias been several 
 times besieged by the Africans, especially in 1697. 
 
 MALAGA. 
 
 This is a fine maratime town in the province of Grana¬ 
 da, containing 60,000 inhabitants, in lat. 36° 48", Ion. 4° 
 25". The Pcehnicians built this city several centuries be¬ 
 fore Christ, and called it Madia, on account of the great 
 quantities of salt fish sold here. The city still retains 
 much of its old Moorish appearance—the houses high, 
 the streets narrow, and poorly paved ; and it being located 
 at the base of a high mountain, it is excessively hot for 
 eight months in the year. It has an excellent harbor, 
 and is surrounded by a very fertile country, abounding in 
 figs, almonds, oranges, lemons, olives, wax, and honey; 
 which with dried raisins, and wines from the mountains, 
 and cork from the hills, form the foundation of its com¬ 
 merce. The port is enclosed on three sides, and can ac¬ 
 commodate four hundred merchantmen and twenty ships 
 of war at the same time. The vineyards of the neighbor¬ 
 ing hills produce from two to three thousand pipes of vine 
 annually. The first vintage, in June, furnishes the Mal¬ 
 aga wane. The second, in September, furnishes a kind of 
 w'ine much like, but inferior to Sherry. In October and 
 November the sweet Malaga is manufactured. 
 
 The great national, popular, and exciting amusements 
 of the Spanish Amphitheatre, are here introduced. These 
 exhibitions are frequented by the Queen and all the no- 
 
11 
 
 bility of the land; not only in the principal cities on the 
 coast of the Mediterranean, but in every city and town 
 of importance throughout the entire country ; and when 
 an wncriean for the first time enters this tine, imposing 
 circus, disposed in amphitheatre, crowded with twenty 
 thousand spectators, of different manners, costumes, and 
 character, and hears the deafening ebullitions of their 
 gaiety, the shouts of mutual recognition exchanged be¬ 
 tween all parts of the assembly, it is impossible for him 
 not to feel an electrical quickening of the blood which lie 
 lias never before experienced. lie beholds in the gaily 
 adorned boxes, galleries, and pit, every gradation of toilet, 
 from the rich aristocratic mantilla, or Gallic bonnet 
 of the ladies of rank, whose enjoyment of the sport is be¬ 
 trayed by gentle undulations of their embroidered cambric 
 handkerchiefs, in honor and encouragement of the bold 
 Picador, or cool Matador, to the exquisitely formed and 
 dark glossy ringlets of the beautiful peasant girl. Citi¬ 
 zens, soldiers, and provincials, from all parts of Spain, 
 fill the lower benches, and make up in noise what they 
 want in elevation. The church is also represented ; many 
 a well-fed and rosy dean and friar places himself in corri¬ 
 da dc toros — always with the precaution, however, such 
 as they are wont to use when enjoying, from the comer 
 of their roguish eye, the bew itching display of female 
 charms and attractions around them. 
 
 ALGERIA. 
 
 V town in the province of Granada, at the mouth of 
 the river of the same name, and in lat. 36° d 1' 29", long. 
 2° 32', and contains about 20,000 inhabitants. The har¬ 
 bor is large and well sheltered and protected. The ancient 
 sovereigns of Granada considered this as the most im¬ 
 portant town of their dominions, on account of the fertil¬ 
 ity of the surrounding country, its manufactures and com¬ 
 merce*. 1’he chief exports are Barilla and lead. The 
 latter is from some of the most extensive mines in the 
 world, situated a few miles back of the citv, where are in 
 constant employment, over thirteen thousand men. Be- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
12 
 
 yond the town is a view 7 of Sierra Nevada, the highest 
 mountain in Europe, covered with eternal snow. The ar¬ 
 tist informs me he took the view of this mountain when 
 he was nearly sixty miles distant, yet it appeared to rise 
 out of the sea directly above him, the top glistening in 
 the sun like a brilliant star. The other range of moun¬ 
 tains is a continuation of the Granadas. 
 
 Mr. Hewins spent several weeks in this city, and, while 
 taking a sketch of the cathedral, was arrested by one of 
 their police officers, but was immediately released on in¬ 
 forming the officer of his letters of introduction to the 
 English consul and other distinguished citizens. This 
 city is cpiite celebrated in the history of the Moors, under 
 whom it was highly prosperous and flourishing. It was 
 the port where the Moors, after having been conquered 
 by Ferdinand and Isabella, embarked for Africa, about 
 the time of the discovery of America by Columbus. 
 
 CAPE DE GATA. 
 
 A promontory 7 on the Granada coast, being an enor¬ 
 mous rock of a singular nature and appearance, 13 miles 
 broad and 24 in circuit. In the centre of this promonto¬ 
 ry there are four hills, called the two Friars, the Captain, 
 and the White mountain. The opposite side of this pro¬ 
 montory is called El Puesto de la Plata, where the Moor¬ 
 ish corsairs lie in wait for Spanish and other vessels. 
 
 CARTHAGENA. 
 
 A very ancient town on the coast of the Province of 
 Murcia, with considerable trade; one of the three great 
 naval harbors of Spain, and one of the best ports of the 
 Mediterranean. The basin is very deep, even quite close 
 to the town. The hills that surround it, with steep as¬ 
 cents, and an island at the mouth of the harbor, protect 
 the vessels from all winds. It contains 29,000 inhabitants, 
 fine wharves, an arsenal, naval hospital, naval school, 
 mathematical, and nautical and pilot academy, an obser¬ 
 vatory, botanical garden, numerous churches and con¬ 
 vents, a bagne , theatre, circus, and sailcloth factory ; has 
 

 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
13 
 
 some valuable fisheries and some trade in Barilla silk, 
 &c.. and has long been the grand rendezvous of the Span¬ 
 ish fleets in the Mediterranean. In the neighborhood of 
 the town, the Carthagenians possessed mines of silver, of 
 such richness that Hannibal was enabled to carry on the 
 war against the Romans out of their produce. There are 
 hot springs and salt mines in the neighborhood. The town 
 was built by Asdrubal, and was the capital of the posses¬ 
 sions of the Carthagenians on the East coast of Spain. 
 When taken by the Romans, 208 B. ('., it is said by Livy 
 to have been, next to Rome, one of the richest cities in 
 the world. 
 
 CAPE PALOS. 
 
 Situated in the province of Murcia, twenty miles from 
 Carthagena, in 37° 37' IS*. Lat., 0° 39' W. Lon. It is a 
 promontory that separates the bay of Carthagena from 
 that of Alicant. The watch towers that are to be seen 
 upon the promontories and elevations were erected for the 
 purpose of watching and telegraphing vessels that passed 
 near the coast. The} extend throughout the coast of 
 Spain upon the Mediterranean, intelligence being con¬ 
 voyed from one to the other with almost electrical ve- 
 locitv. 
 
 ALICANT, 
 
 Is a beautiful and rich town in Valencia, on a bay of 
 the same name, in lat. 38° l(i' Ion. 0° 20'. It contains 
 about 18,000 inhabitants, and was formerly protected by 
 strong castles and fortresses, which are now in decay. It 
 is the see of a bishop. The harbor is excellent, and all 
 the maritime nations have vessels at this port. This, like 
 most of the old Spanish towns, is surrounded by a high 
 wall, and although built by its former possessors, the 
 Moors, is still in a remarkable state of preservation. The 
 principal articles of export are fruits, rosemary, and an 
 excellent wine called Alicant. The wine is exceedingly 
 sweet, and and is principally sent to England. The first 
 grape vinos were planted here by Charles V., the shoots 
 having been previously brought from the Rhine. It is 
 
 9 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
14 
 
 the central point of commerce between Spain and Italy, 
 and is the Emporium of Valencia produce. 
 
 IVICA. 
 
 This island forms one of the Balearic group, belonging 
 to Spain, in the Mediterranean. It is 50 miles from Va¬ 
 lencia, and 42 from Majorca, of an irregular, five-sided 
 figure, 27 miles in length, with an average breadth of 15. 
 The coast is indented by numerous bays, the largest being 
 those of St. Antonio and Joiza. The surface is hilly, and 
 in many parts wooded; but there are many picturesque 
 and fertile valleys, well adapted for tillage. The climate 
 is similar to that of Catalonia and Valencia; the winters 
 are so mild that the thermometer seldom falls below 
 130° Reaum., and the heats of summer are tempered by 
 sea breezes. The chief products are olives, wine, com, 
 flax, hemp, and different kinds of fruits, especially figs, 
 for which it was celebrated even in the time of the elder 
 Pliny. Salt is a chief article of exportation, large flocks 
 of sheep are pastured on the hills, and the sea near the 
 coast abounds with fish, the capture of which gives em¬ 
 ployment to many inhabitants. But, notwithstanding 
 these advantages, the island is in great poverty, owing to 
 the indolence of the people, and their slovenly mode of 
 tillage. The Ivicans are of middle size, shrunk and sal¬ 
 low, and speak a language similar to that spoken in Cat¬ 
 alonia and Valencia, being a corrupt dialect of the an¬ 
 cient Romaunce, once the common language of all South 
 Europe. 
 
 The capital, Ivica, on the S. W. side, has a population 
 of 5,720, is fortified, has a good harbor, is the residence 
 of the governor, and a bishop’s see. The chief buildings 
 are a cathedral, six churches, two convents, two hospitals, 
 and a public school house. 
 
 The largest of the two islands, called by Strabo, Potyu- 
 sae , or the pine-bearing island, was early occupied by 
 Phoenicians and Carthagenians, and hence called Ebosus 
 Phaenissa by Lillius Italicus. It was taken bvQ. Metel- 
 lus, and subject to the Romans and their successors, the 
 
- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
15 
 
 Vandals, till the conquest of Spain, by the Moors, in the 
 eighth century. The Spaniards took the island in 1294, 
 and attached it to the kingdom of Arragon, since which 
 it has usually followed the fortunes of the larger islands, 
 Majorca and Minorca. In 1706, during the war of suc¬ 
 cession, it submitted to Sir John Leake with the British 
 squadron, and was ceded to England with Minorca at the 
 peace of Utrecht. In 1814 they were restored to Spain. 
 
 MAJORCA. 
 
 Majorca is the largest of the Belearic islands belonging 
 to Spain, from the E. coast of which it is 110 miles. Its 
 greatest length 48 miles ; breadth, 42 miles ; and has a 
 population of 182,000. Il contains only two towns of 
 importance, and 28 villages, the rest being hamlets. Nu¬ 
 merous farms and country houses, however, arc* scattered 
 over the island, and in all the fine valleys one may see 
 elegant villas, in which the higher classes, much attached 
 to a country life, spend the greater part of the year. The 
 roads have been improved of late years, and there is good 
 communication between different parts. The capital of 
 Majorca is Palma, a bay on the south of the island, and 
 having a population of 34,343. It is placed in a delight¬ 
 ful country and strongly fortified. The houses are large 
 and well built, but the streets narrow, dark, and ill paved. 
 The chief public buildings are the governor’s palace, 
 large, with extensive gardens, a cathedral, exchange, town 
 hall, and theatre. Almost the whole trade of the island 
 i> concentrated in its port. The road of Palma affords 
 excellent protection for shipping, except during storms 
 from the S. E. ; but the little harbor, Puerto-pi, is more 
 secure, and furnishes anchorage for the largest frigates. 
 The port is defended by two well fortified castles. 
 
 The climate of Majorca is mild, salubrious, and agree¬ 
 able; the thermometer in winter scarcely ever falls below 
 48°, its average 1 height being 65°, and cold strong north 
 winds arc rare. The temperature varies between 84° and 
 88° Eahrcnheit. but the heat is seldom oppressive, owing 
 to the sea breezes. The red, loamy soil of the mountains, 
 
' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •! 
 
 
 
 
16 
 
 though stony, is rich, producing spontaneously great 
 numbers of wild olives, grapes, &c. In the plains it is 
 less fertile, owing to the superfluity of moisture and the 
 absence of drainage. Agriculture is in a rude state ; and 
 the growth of corn, which in wet years totally fails, meets 
 only half the consumption ; the annual imports of this ar¬ 
 ticle being about 6,000 fanegas. Olives are raised in large 
 quantities; the crops averaging 180,000 arobas yearly. 
 The fruit is smaller than that of Andalusia, but as juicy 
 as the best Provence. W ine, red and white, is abun¬ 
 dant. Considerable quantities are exported, and much is 
 used in the distillation of brandy. Fruit and veeeta- 
 hies, especially oranges, tigs, melons, carobs, pumpkins, 
 and cauliflowers, grow plentifully and attain a large size. 
 Quantities of saffron are also produced of preferable qual¬ 
 ity to that of La Mancha. There is no want of fine pas¬ 
 ture, and the coast swarms with fish of various kinds and 
 good quality. 
 
 The trade of Majorca is very considerable; chiefly with 
 Spain, France, and England. The inhabitants bear a 
 striking resemblance, both in external appearance and gen¬ 
 eral character to the C'atalans ; being equally hardy, cour¬ 
 ageous, blunt, and jealous of their honor, equally indus¬ 
 trious and ingenious, equally good sailors and skilful far¬ 
 mers with their continental neighbors ; and their language 
 is in fact nothing but a corrupt dialect of the Catalan. 
 
 MINORCA. 
 
 Port Maiion. This is the capital, and one of the very 
 best harbors in the Mediterranean. The city of Mahon 
 was founded by the celebrated Carthagcnian General, Ma- 
 go. Many historians suppose him to have been the 
 brother of Flannibal the Great, who w as born here. These 
 islands received the name of Baleares from the expertness 
 of the natives in the use of slings ; and the Carthagcnian 
 armies were very formidable with these auxiliaries. They 
 were accustomed from infancy to their use; and a cele- 
 
 V 
 
 brated historian informs us that the Balearic mothers 
 placed the piece of bread designed for their children’s 
 

 , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
17 
 
 breakfast upon the top of a tree, and the young Baleari- 
 ans had to earn their food by bringing it down with their 
 slings. The ruins of old fortresses, together with vast 
 vaults, ramparts, terraces, batteries, and barracks, still ex¬ 
 isting, and contrasting with Roman mounds, Druid and 
 Spanish monuments and altars, walls, towers, gateways, 
 and Catholic domes — all these tend to make it a place 
 very interesting to the traveller. There are numerous 
 orange groves, olive trees, and clusters of palms, ravines, 
 craggy glens, beautiful vineyards, antique terraces and 
 groups of picturesque people! The population of the 
 island is about 45,000. It is thirty-three miles long and 
 nine wide. The city of Mahon contains 15,000 inhabi¬ 
 tants. This is the principal port and stopping place for 
 vessels that are passing from Toulon to Algiers. Mount 
 Toro is the only very great elevation on the island, and in 
 clear weather is seen far out at sea. It is about 5,000 
 feet in height. Many of the inhabitants dwell in extreme¬ 
 ly small cottages, but they ever welcome the stranger most 
 cordially, presenting him with Mahon wine, oranges, &c., 
 and saying in Spanish, “ Casa chica corazon, grande ,” “big 
 hearts in small houses.” 
 
 SECOND DIVISION. 
 
 VALENCIA. 
 
 Valencia is the capital of the Province of Valencia, in 
 Spain, 1H8 miles E. S. E. of Madrid, with a population 
 of 65,840. It stands on the Guadalavia — about four 
 miles from the mouth of the river, which washes its walls, 
 and separates it from its suburbs. The city, nearly circu¬ 
 lar, is about 2^ miles round, enclosed by massive walls, 
 with towers, and four gates. The old streets are crooked, 
 narrow, and unpaved, but some new quarters have broad 
 streets and squares, which are well paved and kept. It 
 is also well lighted, and guarded by patrols termed seve- 
 nos. It is furnished with sewers of great solidity, af- 
 
 2 * 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
18 
 
 firmed to have been constructed by the Romans; and has 
 many private wells, though only one public fountain. 
 Good quays faced with stone, and planted w r ith trees, line 
 the river in the whole length of the city. A fine view is 
 obtained from any of the bridges; the line of irregular 
 buildings following the course of the river, and the 
 bridges one beyond another, w r ith great Moorish gates, 
 give it an air of grandeur. Few cities, even in Spain, 
 have, or had, so many religious edifices. Among these 
 were not less than 27 convents for men, 22 for women, 
 16 churches, and 24 chapels and hermitages; so that the 
 streets abounded with friars and priests, and their influ¬ 
 ence predominated. The cathedral, of Greek and Gothic 
 architecture, surmounted by a dome, has numerous altars, 
 a good deal of fine marble, some bas-reliefs, and paintings 
 by some of the first Spanish masters ; and is very rich in 
 plate and relics. Some of the churches have domes, but 
 the greater part, tall, slender turrets, with all sorts of 
 pilasters and whimsical devices. In the multitude of sa¬ 
 cred edifices, some excel in parts, or strike by the richness 
 of their decorations; but all are overloaded with orna¬ 
 ments. In most, however, arc fine paintings, by Juanes, 
 Espinoza, Ribalta, Ramirez, Victoria, a pupil of Carlo 
 Maratti, and many other artists, all natives of Valencia. 
 The famous Supper of Ribalta is in the Corpus Christi 
 college; and the same subject by Juanes, a work reck¬ 
 oned among the finest pictures in Valencia, is in the 
 church of St. Nicholas, which also possesses many other 
 splendid paintings. 
 
 The exchange, custom house, the temple, a palace built 
 for a military order, by Charles III., the archbishop’s 
 palace, college of Pius I., and several noble residences, 
 are w orthy of notice; there are four hospitals, one large 
 establishment for medical treatment, several asylums, 
 prisons, barracks, a theatre, &c. Valencia is one of those 
 cities in which traces of Moorish dominion are the most 
 visible; not in any splendid Alhambra or Alcazar, but in 
 every-day sights and common objects. Gateways are seen 
 sculptured in solid marble upon Moorish designs; stones 
 over the doors, or underneath the windows, show by their 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
19 
 
 chiselled marks, their ancient fashion. All the Moorish 
 tokens, also, distinguishing the populations of Seville, 
 Malaga, and San Felipe, arc found in even greater dis¬ 
 tinctness in Valencia. The University, founded in 1411, 
 was formerly considered the best in Spain, particularly for 
 the study of medicine. In 1830, it had 2,500 students, 
 principally divided between law and philosophy. The 
 seventy professors are friars, except those of law. Educa¬ 
 tion in the University is nearly gratuitous, and many stu¬ 
 dents are in the habit of receiving portions of food daily 
 from the convents. The university library has not more 
 than 1,500 volumes, but its deficiencies are compensated 
 by a good library in the archbishop's palace, with cabinets 
 of antiquities, models, &c., open for six hours daily. There 
 are six other colleges, and many academies; the royal 
 academy of St. diaries, for the instruction of students in 
 the fine arts, is the only institution not under the super¬ 
 intendence of priests. 
 
 The manufactures of velvets, taffetas, flowered damasks, 
 and other silks, at the end of the last century, employed 
 upwards of 3,000 looms ; but have greatly declined in the 
 interval. The existing manufactures comprise woolen 
 fabrics, camlets, hats, linens, gauzes, artificial flowers, &c., 
 with the “ Valencia tiles,” used for the flooring of houses 
 in all cities in the south of Spain. These tiles are at once 
 cool, and highly ornamental ; but they are far from cheap, 
 those of the best quality being much more expensive than 
 an equal extent of the most superb carpeting. 
 
 The port, about two miles distant, is connected with the 
 city by a broad-planted avenue, forming the favorite pub¬ 
 lic promenade. The climate, though hot, is agreeable and 
 healthy ; and the city a good deal resorted to by invalids. 
 Many persons of rank and wealth reside here, but without 
 display. Travellers bear testimony to the vivacity, ready 
 wit, freedom from affectation, and obliging disposition of 
 the inhabitants. It has produced many distinguished na¬ 
 tives, and the first printing press introduced into Spain, 
 was established here. 
 
 Valencia was formerly held by the Moors ; but taken 
 from them by the celebrated Cid, Ruiz de Diaz de Bivar. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
20 
 
 After his death, it successfully sustained under his widow 
 Ximenc, a siege against the Moors of Cordova, but ulti¬ 
 mately capitulated to them. It was retaken by James I., 
 of Arragon, in 1238, and peopled afterwards with Catalans 
 and French settlers. It was conquered by Suchct, in 
 1812, and held by the French, till June, 1813. 
 
 BARCELONA. 
 
 This fine old Spanish city is the capital of the Province 
 of Catalonia, and was one of the principal seaports of the 
 Mediterranean, e\en in the middle ages. It is between 
 the rivers Pesos and Llobregat, in a beautiful, cultivated 
 plain. The town has on its east a large citadel, built in 
 1715, with a covered way to the battery of San Carlos, by 
 the sea. On the west is the high fort of Montjouich, 
 which protects the harbor. The upper and lower towns, 
 with the new suburb of Barcclonetta, chiefly peopled by 
 mariners and soldiers, contain 120,032 inhabitants. The 
 manufactures are cloths, gold and silver lace, silks, cot¬ 
 tons, linens. The firearms made here are in good repute, 
 and, with steel and brass works, form a considerable arti¬ 
 cle of export. The imports are chiefly French and Ital¬ 
 ian manufactures, corn, rice, wax, steel, hemp, and flax. 
 The harbor is spacious, but difficult of entrance. It is 
 defended by a large mole, at the end of which is a battery 
 and lighthouse. There are nine parish churches, thirty- 
 four monasteries, six hospitals, and a theatre. The See is 
 suffragan to the archbishopric of Tarragona ; and the king 
 of Spain, as Count of Barcelona, is first canon of the 
 chapter. The academies and institutions are honorable to 
 the public spirit of the Catalans, who are a distinct race 
 of Spaniard. In the arsenal the principal object is the 
 cannon foundry. The streets, though narrow, are clean 
 and well paved and the houses high. The environs are 
 rendered agreeable by more than two hundred elegant 
 gardens, and the walks round the ramparts, and La Kam- 
 bla, are delightfully situated and always crowded. 
 
 Barcelona lias a royal junta of government, and is the 
 seat of the provincial authorities. A Junta de Cummer no 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
21 
 
 supports the public professorships of navigation, architec¬ 
 ture, painting, sculpture, perspective landscape, and orna¬ 
 mental flower drawing, engraving, chemistry, experimental 
 philosophy, agriculture, and botany; short-hand writing, 
 commerce and accounts, mechanics, the English, French, 
 and Italian languages. It has a large cabinet of coins, 
 and awards pensions and rewards for superior attainments 
 and useful inventions. It also maintains some of its stu¬ 
 dents in foreign parts, and has expended large sums for 
 public works in the province. Five hundred boys at one 
 time, most of them intended for trades, attend the academy 
 of fine arts, provided with materials, models, and living 
 subjects, at the public expense. It has also four public 
 libraries, an ecclesiastical seminary, eight colleges, a col¬ 
 lege of surgeons, and professorship of practical medicine ; 
 a college of pharmacy, academy of arts and sciences, and of 
 belles lettres, &c., a school for deaf and dumb, house of in¬ 
 dustry, numerous hospitals, a foundling institution, and sev¬ 
 eral other charities. The population has not an exclusively 
 Spanish appearance. Spanish hats are scarcely to be seen, 
 and the charming mantilla is not indispensable. The fea¬ 
 tures of the females are more regular, their forms slighter, 
 their complexions clearer, and their hair less coarse than 
 those of the Andalusian ladies ; but their eyes have less 
 expression. The dress of the peasantry is peculiar, their 
 red caps hanging a foot down their backs: crimson girdles 
 and gaudy colored plaids, give them a highly grotesque 
 appearance. 
 
 CIULF OF LYONS. 
 
 On the eastern coast of France, between hit. 42° 20' and 
 43° 35'. The principal cities and ports on this gulf, are 
 Toulon and Marseilles. It is now called by French wri¬ 
 ters, Golfe cle Lion — from the agitation of its waters, and 
 the severity of its storms. 
 
 MARSEILLES, 
 
 A large commercial city and seaport of France, and the 
 capital of the Department of Bouches-de-lilione, stands on 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
22 
 
 the cast side of a bay of the Gulf of Lyons, thirty miles 
 west north-west of Toulon. It has a population of 120,- 
 455, and occupies the centre of a basin six or seven miles 
 broad, bounded by forty precipitous hills. The space 
 from the city to the hills is adorned with villas and ham- 
 lets, for every merchant or respectable shop-keeper has 
 his maison de campagne. These are showy, sometimes 
 large and splendid, and are called Bastides, and their num¬ 
 ber is not less than five thousand. The country around 
 is, however, arid, and the wind called the Mistral is 
 blighting and noxious. The city is built round its port, 
 and divided into two parts. The old town, occupying the 
 site of the ancient Greek city, on rising ground, on the 
 north side of the harbor, is confined, ill built, with nar¬ 
 row, dark streets. The new town, constructed in modern 
 style, with regular streets, handsome squares and houses, 
 stands on the south and east sides of the port, being sepa¬ 
 rated from the old town by a magnificent street, which 
 extends in a right line from the Porte d’ Aix to the Porte 
 de Pome, traversing from north to south the entire length 
 of the city. The middle part of this street, called the 
 Cours, is sheltered by trees, the houses on cither side are 
 good, it has handsome fountains, and is one of the chief 
 places of public resort. Marseilles has been fortified at 
 different periods, but its walls were destroyed in 1800, 
 and their place is occupied by boulevards planted with 
 trees, beyond which the city is rapidly extending. It is 
 defended by the fort of Notre Dame de la Garde, on a 
 steep eminence to the south; but it is more remarkable 
 for the beauty of its situation than for strength. The 
 harbor is protected by a fort on either side its entrance, 
 by-the Chateau d’lf, on the island of that name, and by 
 works on the islands nearly opposite its mouth. 
 
 The cathedral occupies the site of an ancient temple of 
 Diana ; it is extensive, but heavy-looking. Its interior is 
 a mixture of orders, and its ornaments, mostly of the 11th 
 and 12th centuries, are in bad taste. The church of St. 
 Madeline, formerly des Chartreux, in the suburbs, an edi¬ 
 fice constructed in the 17th century, is far superior to the 
 others. It has a handsome facade, and two campaniles, 
 

 
 4 • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
23 
 
 remarkable for their light appearance. There arc about 
 20 Roman Catholic churches, several chapels, 2 Greek 
 churches, a Protestant church, and a synagogue. The 
 town-hall is a heavy edifice, composed of two piles of 
 buildings, connected by a light and elegant arch on the 
 first story. Its ground floor is the exchange. The Hotel 
 Dieu, one of the first established hospitals in France, was 
 founded in 1188, and is capable of accommodating 750 
 patients. The Hospital de la Charite, founded in 1640, 
 an asylum for aged persons, and for orphans, foundlings, 
 See., has usually from 800 to 850 inmates. The Laza¬ 
 retto, one of the largest and most perfect in Europe, is 
 surrounded by a triple wall. Ships may clear from it 
 while in quarantine. Marseilles has a lying-in hospital, 
 a bureau de bienfaisanee, asylums for poor children, a 
 inont-de-piete, and savings bank. AVhat was formerly a 
 Bernardine convent, accommodates the Koval College, 300 
 or 400 students; the .Royal Society of Science, Literature, 
 and Art; the public library of 50,000 printed volumes, 
 and 1.300 MSS., with cabinets of medals, antiquities, &c., 
 and a gallery of paintings, comprising works by Carracci, 
 Salvator Rosa, Rubens, Vandyke, Jordsens, and other 
 artists of the Italian and Flemish schools. The observa¬ 
 tory , on the highest point of the old town, has apartments 
 for schools of navigation, geometry, &c. The Grand 
 theatre, after the plan of the Odeon in Paris, is spacious 
 and handsome, and has six tiers of boxes. The other 
 chief public buildings are the hall of justice, new prison, 
 custom house, arsenal, barracks, mint, bishop's palace, 
 public halls, fish market, Ccc. Marseilles has a botanic 
 garden, and excellent public baths. It is well supplied 
 with water from fountains and public wells, but it is not 
 introduced into the houses. At the extremity of the Rue 
 d'Aix is an unfinished triumphal arch, of the Corinthian 
 order, originally erected in honor of the Due d’Angou- 
 leme, after his invasion of Spain in 1823; and now in¬ 
 tended to commemorate the revolution of 1830, one of 
 the effects of which was to expel him from the kingdom. 
 Marseilles has few remains of antiquity, a fountain with 
 an inscription in Greek, an obelisk, and the remains of an 
 aqueduct, &c. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
24 
 
 41)0 port to which Marseilles is indebted for her pros¬ 
 perity, is a fine basin, stretching from west to east, about 
 1,000 yards, into the very centre of the city, and extremely 
 well fitted for moderate-sized merchantmen, of which it 
 will accommodate from 1,000 to 1.200. The ships come 
 close to the quays, by which it is surrounded on all sides, 
 except at its cm trance. 
 
 Marseilles is the grand emporium of the south of 
 1 ranee, and nine-tenths of her commerce with the 1 coun¬ 
 tries of the Mediterranean, and engrosses almost the 
 whole trade 1 between France and Algiers. She is also the 
 principal station for the 1 intercourse, by steamers, with 
 Malta, Alexandria, and Constantinople. Beside the gov¬ 
 ernment steam packets, she had. in IS39, a large number 
 of fine steam packets belonging to private companies. 
 
 Marseilles v as founded by a colony from Plioeea, in 
 Ionia, about 600 years ]>. C. The Massilians, as flu y 
 were then called, distinguished themselves by their skill 
 as seamen, their commerce, the wisdom of their political 
 institutions, and their civilization. The\ early became al- 
 lies of Home ; but having espoused the party of Pompey, 
 their city was taken bv (fesar. Though Marseilles lost 
 her liberty, she 1 preserved her commerce and superior 
 civilization under the Romans ; and was highly distin¬ 
 guished as a school of belles lettrcs and philosophy. She 
 is spoken of by Cicero in the highest terms of eulogy. 
 After the fall of the Pom an empire, she underwent many 
 vicissitudes. In tin 1 tenth century she was sacked by the 
 Saracens. She was finally united to I'ranee in 14S2. 
 During the middle ages she rivalled Genoa in her trade 
 with the Levant. Fn 1720 the plague destroyed from 
 40,000 to b0,000 of the inhabitants. She also suffered 
 from the revolutionary phrenzy, and the anti-commercial 
 policy of Xapoleou; but it is now more populous and 
 flourishing than ever. Marseilles has given birth to many 
 distinguished individuals, among whom may he specified 
 Pytln 'tis, one of Ihc most illustrious navigators and astron- 
 
 V 
 
 omers of antiquity, who flourished in the fourth century 
 B. ( .. and Pctronius Arbiter. Dumarsais. th< Gramma¬ 
 rian, and Pevssonnel, the author uf a treatise on the com- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
25 
 
 moire of the Black sea. and of other works on the Levant, 
 and Puget, celebrated as a sculptor, painter and architect. 
 
 'Hie famous revolutionary song and air, calk'd the Mar¬ 
 seillaise, did not originate in Marseilles, as might he in¬ 
 ferred from the name; this was derived from the tune 
 having been played by a body of troops from Marseilles,, 
 on their entry into Paris, in 1791. 
 
 TOULON, 
 
 A celebrated seaport of France, and since the conquest 
 of Algiers, the first naval port in the kingdom, is in the 
 department of the Var, at the bottom of one of the finest 
 harbors of the Mediterranean, 32 miles E. S. E. of Mar¬ 
 seilles, and has at least 45,000 inhabitants, including the 
 garrison, and forecats in the bagne. The town, of an 
 oval shape, rises gracefully and majestically towards the 
 North, extending her ramparts to the foot of a chain of 
 high mountains stretching from the east to the west. 
 The position would bo more picturesque and beautiful, 
 were there more verdure; but the rocks and mountains 
 are arid, destitute of umbrage of any kind. The town is 
 surrounded by a double rampart, and a large, deep ditch, 
 defended on the east, west, and north, by hills covered 
 with redoubts. Among the forts, that of La Malgue, on 
 a peninsula to the south east, is the most remarkable, not 
 only for extent, but solidity of construction. Latterly, 
 works have been in progress for uniting the town to the 
 fortress, and a solid rampart with fosses constructed. 
 Toulon is divided into the old and new town; both are 
 well built, but the streets of the former are narrow and 
 crowded, and all the squares, except one, small and irreg¬ 
 ular. The new quarter, in which are most of the naval 
 establishments, is superior in point of appearance. The 
 principal street, the Hue De Lafayette, which intersects 
 the town, and is partially planted with trees, is the seat 
 of the principal market, and a scene of great and amus¬ 
 ing bustle and activity. It terminates near the port, in 
 the Place d’Arms. a handsome square, planted with trees, 
 one side of which is formed by the admiralty-house. 
 
 3 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
26 
 
 The town hall, facing the commercial port, with two co¬ 
 lossal statues in front, by Puget, regarded as chef 
 d’ oeuvres; the old cathedral, three other churches, the 
 court-house, military arsenal, occupying an ancient con¬ 
 vent, naval, military, civil, and foundling hospitals, and a 
 handsome communal college, are the other chief public 
 buildings. Toulon is supplied with water by springs 
 from the mountains; and several of its numerous public 
 fountains are ornamented with statues. The suburbs are 
 not only increasing, but, from the augmentation of the 
 population, and importance of the place, it has been found 
 necessary to add stories to the older houses. Since 1830, 
 two new quarters have sprung up without the walls; one 
 on the road north-eastward to Yaletti, and the other on 
 the road westward to Ollioulles. Owing to its situation 
 at the foot of high bare hills, that intercept the winds from 
 the north, and reflect the sun's rays, the climate in sum¬ 
 mer is extremely hot. 
 
 Toulon is the Brest of the Mediterranean, and the Ply¬ 
 mouth of France. Both the old and new harbors are 
 artificial. The latter, formed by hollow and bomb-proof 
 jetties, running off from the east and w r est sides of the 
 town, is sufficient!) (extensive to accommodate thirty sail 
 of the line, as many frigates, and an equal proportion of 
 small craft. The entrance is shut by a boom, and it is 
 never so much ruffled by the w ind, as to occasion damage. 
 The outer sides of the jetties present two large batteries, 
 even w ith the water’s edge. The entrance to the inner 
 road, on which the harbor opens, is between the Grosso 
 tow er on one side, and fort Fguilette on the other, about 
 620 fathoms apart. The outer, or great roadstead, to the 
 east of the latter, has deeper water and better anchorage 
 than the inner, but is open to east winds, which some¬ 
 times throw in a heavy sea. 
 
 The arsenal, one of the finest in Europe, occupies a 
 surface of eighty-seven acres, has dry docks, and every 
 accommodation for the construction, repair, and outfit of 
 ships. In general, from 3,000 to 4.000 free work mm, re 
 employed in its walls; but in 1841, when unusual activ- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
27 
 
 ity prevailed, there were between 5,000 and 6,000 labor¬ 
 ers, exclusive of 6.500 criminals. 
 
 The rope house, constructed by the famous Vauban, is 
 1,120 feet in length, and 64 in breadth. The docks, slips, 
 sheds, mast-house, sail factory, magazines, &c., are on a 
 grand scale. A new arsenal, meant as an appendage to 
 the old, has been recently laid out. The depot of oak 
 timber is the largest in France. The bagne, is on board 
 some hulks, and is occupied by criminals condemned to 
 hard labor for ten years and under. 
 
 The mercantile port, bordered by a line quay, is shut 
 off from the harbor for men of war, by a line of dismasted 
 vessels. The imports consist chiefly of corn, flour, salt 
 provisions, timber, &c.; and the exports, of oil, capers, 
 figs, raisins, almonds, oranges, and other fruits, with 
 cloth, hosiery, soap, &c. The trade, hitherto inconsid¬ 
 erable, has materially increased since the conquest of 
 Algiers, and will probably continue to increase. In 1841, 
 eight steamers were continually plying between Toulon 
 and Africa, Corsica, Italy, and the east, and smaller ves¬ 
 sels to La Seyne. 'Toulon is the capital of an arrondiso 
 ment and two cantons, and the residence of numerous 
 government officers and foreign consuls; it has tribunals 
 of primary jurisdiction and commerce, a lord of customs, 
 a college, schools of hydrography, marine artillery, geome¬ 
 try and mathematics, a society of arts, naval museum, 
 public library, government, pawn and savings’ banks, a 
 theatre, public baths, 6cc. 
 
 'Toulon existed in the days of the Romans. In more 
 modern times, it was occasionally attacked by African 
 corsairs. To defend it from them, Louis XII. commenced 
 the erection of the Crosse tower, at the entrance of the 
 inner road, w hich was finished by Francis I. Henry IV. 
 begun the construction of the old port, now appropriated 
 to merchant vessels, in 1594. But it is indebted for its 
 importance as a great naval and military position, to 
 Louis XIV., who expended vast sums on its fortifications 
 and harbor. Having, in 1793, been delivered up by the 
 royalists to the English and Spaniards, it was retaken by 
 the republicans, after a siege, in which Napoleon gave 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
28 
 
 the first decided proofs of his extraordinary military 
 talents. On evacuating the town, the allies set fire to 
 the magazines, and to the ships they were unable to carry 
 off; the fortifications have since been thoroughly repaired, 
 and several new works constructed, so that it is stronger 
 now than ever, and if properly garrisoned, would be all 
 but impregnable. 
 
 * THIRD DIVISION. 
 
 NICE. 
 
 Nice is a seaport and city of the Sardinian dominion- 
 in Italy, and the capital of the province of its own name. 
 The population, exclusive of the garrison, is 33,811. It 
 is beautifully situated, in a small plain at the foot of the 
 maritime Alps, by which it is protected from the N. and 
 E. winds; while the cool sea-breeze, prevailing with a 
 regularity almost equal to that of a tropical climate, 
 moderates the summer heat. It is encircled by bastioned 
 walks, and has on the E. the steep, rocky hill of Monte 
 Albano, surmounted by the ruins of an old castle. The 
 view from this hill is very fine, and at sunrise and sunset 
 the island of Corsica is sometimes clearly distinguished, 
 though some 70 or 80 miles distant. The port, small 
 and protected by a pier, admits vessels of 300 tons, and is 
 visited bv steamers from Marseilles to Genoa. Nice is 
 divided into two parts by the river Tnglione, here crossed 
 by a stone bridge. The old town has narrow and crooked 
 streets, kept very clean. The new town, to the west of 
 the river, is well laid out and handsome: it lias a square 
 surrounded by ojien arcades, and some of the houses near 
 the sea and in the vicinity, are very superior. The cathe¬ 
 dral, several convents, three hospitals, the governor's res¬ 
 idence, college, public library, theatre, and a fine arch 
 erected in honor of Victor Amadeus 111., are the princi¬ 
 pal public buildings. It has several bathing establish¬ 
 ments, and some good hotels; and the rents of houses and 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ ^ Hj 
 
 
2D 
 
 apartments are lower than in any othtr place of gen¬ 
 eral resort oil the continent. It has manufactures of silk 
 twist, snuff, soap, essences, perfumery, paper, fishery of 
 anchovies, and a considerable trade in the export of oil, 
 wine, oranges, hemp, Nc., and in the importation of 
 coni from the Black Sea, salt fish, manufactured goods, 
 and colonial produce. It is a bishop’s See, the seat of a 
 royal council, and of the head court of justice for its divi¬ 
 sion. Nice, in common with Montpelier, enjoys the 
 reputation of having a peculiarly genial climate, and is 
 resorted to by numerous invalids, especially from Eng¬ 
 land, during November, December, and January. At 
 Christmas time, there are a soft and balmy air, oranges 
 growing in every garden, lodgings without a chimney, 
 and beds with mosquito curtains. But in February, the 
 Vent de Bise begins to blow, and is very trying to persons 
 of delicate constitutions. A noble road, constructed at 
 a vast expense, leads over the Maritime Alps, from Nice 
 to Turin. Another, begun by Napoleon, but not com¬ 
 pleted till 1H*27, leads along the sea coast, from Nice to 
 Genoa, and a third from Lyons to Nice. 
 
 Nice was founded by colonists from Marseilles. Under 
 the Komans it was originally the seat of a naval arsenal; 
 but under Augustus, the latter was transferred to Frejus. 
 Under the French, it was the capital of the department 
 Alpes Maritime. s\ Among the celebrated individuals to 
 whom it has given birth, are the painter, Vanloo; the 
 astronomer, Cassini; and Marshal Massena, one of Napo¬ 
 leon’s ablest generals. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 This superb maritime city of the N. of Italy is of great 
 antiquity, and was once the capital of an independent re¬ 
 public, as it is now of a province of the kingdom of Sar¬ 
 dinia. It is situated at the head of the gulf of the same 
 name, 75 miles S. E. of Turin, and 90 miles N. NV. of 
 Leghorn. Including the garrison, the merchant seamen, 
 and those of the royal navy, it has a population of 115,- 
 257. Its port is semi-circular, the chord being about a 
 
 3 * 
 

 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
30 
 
 mile in length. Two gigantic moles, Molo Vechio, and 
 Molo Nuovo, projecting into the sea from either angle, en¬ 
 close and protect the harbor. The land rises amphitheatre- 
 wise from the water’s edge to the height of 500 or 600 feet; 
 so that the aspect of the city from the sea is grand and 
 imposing. The houses form streets at the lower part of 
 the acclivity, while the upper is thickly studded with de¬ 
 tached villas. Behind all, the Apennines tower at the 
 distance of ten or twelve miles; their summits, dining 
 part of the year, being covered with snow. (renoa has a 
 double line of fortifications: the inner one encloses the 
 city itself, on the X. and E. sides of the port; the outer 
 walls extend from either angle of the port back to the sum¬ 
 mit of the hills, on the declivity of which the city stands, 
 and are eight or ten miles in length. The old or E. por¬ 
 tion of the city consists of a labyrinth of narrow and 
 
 V V 
 
 crooked streets, the breadth being generally no more than 
 from six to twelve feet. They run between a succession 
 of lofty houses, fiye, six, and even seven stories high, each 
 story being from 12 to 15 feet deep; the cornices under 
 the roof of which sometimes project so far as to meet, and 
 thereby exclude all daylight. In these streets you meet 
 vast numbers of mules and some asses, carrying all sorts 
 of articles on their backs; for wheeled carriages are used 
 only in the broad streets, which* are rare except in the 
 suburbs. The streets are paved with broad flags of lava, 
 laid in mortar, and having the smoothness and durability 
 of good masonry. In the middle of this pavement is a 
 pathway laid with bricks, set on edge, about two or 
 three feet broad, and a little higher than the lava, for the 
 accommodation of the mules; the lava being too smooth 
 to afford their feet sufficient hold. 
 
 Narrow and steep as they are, the streets are very clean. 
 
 cool, and quiet. The newer part of the city stretches 
 
 along the N. side of the port, is more regularly laid out. 
 
 and contains some broad and very handsome streets; in 
 
 * 
 
 particular, that running from the Piazza delle fontane to 
 the Piazza delF Aquaverde , near the AY. gate, and includ¬ 
 ing the Strada Nova, and Novissima , the Piazza did Vas- 
 tato , and the Strada BaJhi. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Tho last, of these is entirely formed of palaces most 
 costly and magnificent. Each is built round a court, and 
 tin- best apartments are on the third floor, for the benefit 
 of light and air. The fiat roofs arc adorned with shrubs 
 and trees, as myrtle, pomegranate, orange, lemon, olean¬ 
 ders, &c\, 25 feet high, growing not in boxes only, but in 
 open ground several feet deep, brought hither and sup¬ 
 ported on arches. Fountains play among these artificial 
 groves, and keep up their verdure and shade during the 
 heat of summer. In Italy. Genoa has acquired and de¬ 
 serves the title of “ J,a Superha." It exhibits not a few 
 remains of ancient splendor, and much evidence of actual 
 wealth and comfort. Its architecture is grand in style 
 and admirable in material. Its palaces are numerous, and 
 many of their princely gates 40 feet high, with marble 
 columns, courts paved with vari-colored marbles in mo¬ 
 saic. broad staircases all of marble, rooms 80 feet high, 
 with arched ceilings, adorned with gilded columns, large 
 mirrors, superb crystal lustres, mosaic floors, the roofs 
 panelled, and the panels filled with finely executed fres¬ 
 coes, or paintings in oil, and divided by sculptured figures. 
 Behind are orangeries. There are all hut multitudes of 
 these palaces The common houses are of stone plastered 
 with stucco, the finer of marble. Of its palaces, that of 
 Doria, built by and still belonging to the illustrious family 
 of that name, is the largest and most stately. It opens 
 into large gardens, which extend along the shore; has a 
 noble colonnade supporting a terrace facing the gardens, 
 the whole in white marble: and its interior is very richly 
 ornamented. Tho emperors Charles V. and Napoleon, 
 both made it their residence during their stay in Genoa. 
 Another Palazzo Doria is now a residence of the king of 
 Sardinia. The old mole, extending 260 fathoms, has a 
 batten near its middle. The new mole, on the opposite 
 side, projects 210 fathoms; the distance between them 
 forms the entrance to the harbor, and is 350 fathoms. 
 Mon-of-war and the largest of merchantmen may anchor 
 inside the new mole. There are not a great many public 
 fountains, but a plentiful supply of water for the inhabit¬ 
 ants is brought by an aqueduct from the river Bisaguo, 
 

 
 
 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
32 
 
 immediately E. of the outer walls. The atmosphere is 
 pure, the climate of the city and neighborhood healthy, 
 and particularly favorable for rearing silk worms. 
 
 Genoa is the grand port of entry of a wide extent of 
 country, and her commerce is rapidly augmenting. Her 
 exports are olive oil, fruits, cheese, steel, argol, silks, 
 damasks, and famous velvets, paper, soap, marble, alabas¬ 
 ter, coral, &c. ; her imports, cotton and woollen stuffs, 
 corn, sugar, spices, coffee, cochineal, indigo, hides, iron, 
 naval stores, &c. Genoa is the residence of a general 
 commandant and archbishop, and the seat of the Supreme 
 Court of the province, and has an admiralty council, a 
 tribunal and chamber of commerce, royal college, naval 
 school, deaf and dumb establishment, public library of 
 50,000 volumes, 1,000 MSS., several learned societies, and 
 various schools. Provisions are good, rent cheap, the 
 beggars few, and the society elegant and agreeable. Most 
 ladies wear the mantilla, a piece of thin white muslin or 
 gauze, which covers the head and shoulders, and comes 
 down to the waist. This piece of costume is also in com¬ 
 mon use in Leghorn. 
 
 SPLENDID PALACES AND CHURCHES 0E GENOA. 
 
 In (ienoa there are two palaces, originally belonging to 
 the Durazzo family. That on the titrada Balbi, now a 
 royal mansion, has a front of 250 feet in length ; a court 
 rich in architectural embellislrments, and a famous gallery 
 100 feet long, ornamented with frescoes, and containing 
 a curious collection of statues and sculptures, ancient and 
 modem, numerous portraits of the Durazzi, historical 
 paintings, and others, by Carlo I)olci, Titian, Vandyck, 
 A. Durer, Holbein, &c. In another apartment, is the chef 
 d’oeuvre of Paul Veronese, “Mary Magdalene at the 
 feet of our Saviour.'’ The other Durazzo palace is scarce¬ 
 ly less rich; its gallery contains some fine works by 
 P. Veronese, L. and A. Caracci, Guereino, Titian, Porni- 
 nichino, Guido, Reubens, &c. The ancient palace of tl 
 Doges was almost wholly destroyed by tire in 1177 ; bn ! he 
 modem building on its site is a fine structure, and con- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
tains the City Council Hall, 125 feet by 45, and 66 feet 
 high. The Berra, Spinola, Balbi, Brignole, Carega, Mari, 
 and Pallavicini, are among the most remarkable of the 
 other palaces. The finest of the churches is that of the 
 Annunziata , founded in the 13th century. It contains some 
 good paintings. The cathedral of St. Lorenzo, built in 
 the 11 th century, is of Gothic architecture ; its exterior 
 is cased with black and white marble, in alternate horizon¬ 
 tal stripes. The cathedral of St. Cairo is very ancient; 
 that of St. Stepliano has a famous altar-piece, -the joint 
 work of Raphael and Julio Romano. The church of San 
 Filippo JVm, and the chapel of the Carmelite nuns, are 
 both greatly admired for their chaste style. The church 
 of Santa Maria Carignano, also in the best taste, was 
 erected by one of the princely citizens of Genoa, whose 
 son, in the 16th century, united two elevated parts of the 
 town by a bridge, the ponte di Carignano. 100 feet in 
 height, and which passes, with three giant strides, over 
 houses six stories high, that do not come up to the spring 
 of the arches. There are altogether thirty-two parish 
 churches, sixty-nine convents and monasteries, and three 
 large hospitals richly endowed; the principal of which, 
 the Abergo di Poveri , is a large quadrangular edifice im¬ 
 mediately north of the inner city walls. In this institu¬ 
 tion 1,500 or 1,600 orphans and old people are pro¬ 
 vided for. This building contains numerous busts and 
 statues of its benefactors, and a “Dead Christ,” in alto re¬ 
 lievo, by Michael Angelo; probably the finest piece of 
 sculpture in Genoa. Among the other public buildings, 
 are the exchange, the old bank of St. George, and one of 
 the three I heat res. Carlo Felice, recently built. The op¬ 
 era in Genoa is indifferent. The university, in the Stradi 
 Palin, is a fine edifice, and has a large library and botanic 
 garden. Around the port is a rampart, affording an ex¬ 
 cellent promenade. On the north side of the harbor is 
 the Darsena , a double basin, enclosed by piers, and des¬ 
 tined for a refitting dock; adjoining it is the arsenal. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
34 
 
 LEGHORN. 
 
 This city and seaport, the principal emporium of Italy, 
 in the grand Duchy of Tuscany, contains 76,397 inhabi¬ 
 tants, of whom about 5,000 are Greeks and Jews, and 
 3,000 other foreigners. It is of a square form, and about 
 two miles and a half in circumference, surrounded with 
 new walls entered by five gates. Clean and well built, 
 its general air of animation, activity, and business, is sin¬ 
 gularly opposed to the listless idleness of the inland towns 
 of Italy. Its streets are generally wide and well paved, 
 especially that which runs m a direct line from the gate 
 of Pisa to the harbor, enlarging near its centre into a spa¬ 
 cious square. The north part of the city, called Venezia 
 Nova, is intersected by canals, and comprises numerous 
 wharv es, warehouses, and other buildings adapted to com¬ 
 merce. Leghorn has an outer and inner harbor, and a 
 good roadstead. The outer harbor is protected by a fine 
 mole, built by Cosmo II., which runs north-north-w est 
 upwards of half a mile into the sea. A light-house, the 
 lantern of which is 170 feet above the sea, is on a rock a 
 little south-west from the mole. The Lazaretto, one of 
 the best in Europe, stands on a small island to the south, 
 about one mile from the tower. 
 
 The public and private buildings are well adapted to 
 their purposes, without being very splendid. The chief 
 public edifices are the ducal palace, the arsenal, the duo 
 mo or cathedral, a Gothic building designed by Vasari, 
 six other parish churches, two Greek churches, chapels 
 belonging to the English factory and the Dutch and Ger¬ 
 man Protestants, an Armenian and a Maronite Arab 
 church, a synagogue, the largest in Europe after that of 
 Amsterdam, a mosque, three hospitals, the female charity 
 school of St. Peter and St. Paul, a theatre, and public 
 baths. Leghorn has also a citadel, an old castle, construct¬ 
 ed in 1595 bv Ferdinand I., two lazaretts, besides that 
 mentioned, two monti-di-pieta, a work-house, house of re¬ 
 fuge, savings’ bank, a large public school, established in 
 1746, and which has about 350 pupils, schools of naviga¬ 
 tion and artillery, architecture, painting, mutual n -aruc- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
35 
 
 tion, an academy of sciences, letters, and arts, with a li¬ 
 brary of 6,000 volumes, open to the public. The city 
 possesses a fine marble statue of the grand duke Ferdinand 
 I., supported by four kneeling figures in bronze; it stands 
 on the quay of the inner habor, and was executed by John 
 of bologna. In the cemeteries beyond the walls, are 
 also some good specimens of sculpture. The Campo In- 
 glese, contains the remains of Smollett, and of several 
 other distinguished Englishmen. 
 
 Water is brought by an aqueduct from Colognole, 
 twelve miles distant; one of the most remarkable mon¬ 
 uments is the Cisterna belonging to this aqueduct, 
 whence water is distributed through the town. 
 
 Leghorn has a considerable coral fishery; but the great¬ 
 er portion of inhabitants are engaged in manufacture and 
 commerce ; it produces woollen caps, straw hats, glass, 
 paper, soap, starch, cream of tartar, &c. ; and it has nu¬ 
 merous coral and alabaster factories, rope-walks, building- 
 docks for merchant vessels, tanneries, &e. 
 
 It" exports are similar to those from the other Italian 
 ports. It was made a free port by Cosmo I., about the 
 middle of the 16th century, and is one of the finest com- 
 mercial cities of Italy. 
 
 ISLE AND TOWN OF ELBA, 
 
 Near the coast of Tuscany, about eight miles in length 
 and two in breadth, known to the Greeks by the name of 
 Aithalia, and to the Romans by that of Ilva, or Elva, has 
 homi renowned for its mines from a period beyond the 
 reach of history. Pliny gives it a circuit of 100 miles; 
 late geographers allow it only 60. The difference might 
 even be accounted for by the encroachments of the sea, 
 and by the tumbling in of rocks, which are in many 
 places of a mouldering contexture. Being extremely 
 mountainous, Elba affords but scanty room for culti¬ 
 vation, and produces little more than six month’s provi¬ 
 sion of corn for its inhabitants. It is said to have been 
 peopled from Yoitena, in very ancient times the capital of 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
36 
 
 Tuscany, and perhaps of all Italy. The climate is much 
 milder than that of the adjacent continent. Elba contains 
 two grand ports; Porto Ferraio and Porto Longone, both 
 defended by fortifications and garrisons. Lon. 10° 26' E., 
 Lat. 42° 53' N. Population 13,750. 
 
 The Etruscans, Phocians, Cartliagenians, and Homans, 
 successively possessed Elba; in the middle ages it was 
 subject to the Saracens, Pisans, Genoese, Lucchase, the 
 counts of Piombino, Ossini, &c. In the 16th century it 
 was ravaged by Barbarossa, and soon afterwards fell to 
 the crown of Naples. Under the French empire it formed 
 part of the kingdom of Etrutri; but its chief historical 
 interest is derived from its having been the residence of 
 Napoleon from the 3d of May, 1814, to the 26th of Feb., 
 1815. During this short period, a road was opened be¬ 
 tween the two principal towns, trade revived, and a new 
 era seemed to have opened for Elba. 
 
 MOLA DE GAETA. 
 
 Mola de Gaeta, 41 miles northwest of Naples, and 72 
 miles southeast of Home, has a population of 14,800, of 
 whom 10,000 reside in the suburbs. It is one of the keys 
 of the kingdom, being strong in position, and defended by 
 walls flanked with bastions and redoubts, and a square 
 castle situated on a rock. Its suburbs are extensive. 
 
 Gaeta is irregularly built, its streets are narrow and 
 steep; those in the city are, however, greatly inferior to 
 those in the suburbs. It has a cathedral, with a fine 
 tower, constructed by the emperor Frederick Barbarossa; 
 nine other churches, several convents, a public seminary, 
 hospital, and foundling asylum. On the isthmus con¬ 
 necting the citadel w ith the main land, stands the Torre 
 d ’ Orlando, originally the tomb of Plancus; and near the 
 suburb of Castellone is the Tower of Cicero. Its port, 
 though not the largest, is one of the safest and best in 
 Italy. This city is the seat of a bishopric, under the im¬ 
 mediate superintendence of the pope. It is the centre of 
 a considerable trade. Its neighborhood is extrerm L 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
;.n 
 
 beautiful, and covered with villas and country houses. 
 Gacta is very ancient, Virgil says it derived its name 
 from the nurse of vFnoas buried in it. 
 
 It became the residence of many opulent patricians of 
 Itome, and Cicero was put to death by order of Antony, 
 in its immediate vicinity. After the fall of the western 
 empire, it had a republican form of government, at the 
 head of which, however, was placed a duke, acknowledg¬ 
 ing the temporal supremacy of the Pope. In 1435, it was 
 taken by Alplionso V., of Arragon ; and since, then has 
 belonged to the crown of Naples. In modem times it has 
 been repeated!} besieged ; the last siege of an}' great note 
 was in 1800, when it fell into the hands of the French. 
 It, however, held out against the Austrians for some time, 
 both in 1815 and 1821. 
 
 FOURTH DIVISION. 
 
 CAPE M1SEMS. 
 
 This is a bold promontory, washed by the waves, and 
 around whose base the fleet of the lloman emperors used 
 to anchor. Near bv an* the Elvsian Fields, the fabled 
 abode of the blessed. 
 
 ISCHIA. 
 
 This island belongs to the king of Naples; is eight 
 miles south west from the promontory of Misenus; about 
 seven miles in length and twenty in circumference, having 
 a population of 24,000. Nearly in its centre is Mount 
 San Nicolo, an extinct, though formerly an active volcano, 
 the eruptions of which are noticed by Strabo and Pliny, 
 and which burst forth with great fury in 1301. It is 
 2,513 feet above the sea, to which the whole island falls 
 in a gentle slope, except on the north, where its sides are 
 more abrupt. Ischia owes its origin to volcanic agency, 
 and consists wholly of volcanic matter. Its hold and 
 
 4 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
rocky shores present nn imposing appearanre from the' 
 water, and the favorable impression it makes at a distance 
 is not dispelled on landing, it being remarkable both for 
 fertility of soil and beauty of situation. Besides a great 
 (quantity of wine, it produce's olives, a variety of fruit, 
 with wheat, maize, pulse, and excellent herbage. It is 
 well supplied with game, especially partridges. Sulphur 
 and other useful mineral products are abundant, and there 
 are numerous lmt springs and natural vapor baths, espe¬ 
 cially at its northwest extremity. The inhabitants are 
 partiv husbandmen, partly sailors and fishermen. 'The 
 manufacture of straw hats, baskets, and earthenware, is 
 carried on to some extent. 
 
 The chief towns are Ischia and Poria; the former on 
 the cast., the latter on the west coast. Ischia, the capital, 
 with 3,000 inhabitants, is a pretty town, and the residence 
 of a bishop. A round rock, as black as if just launched 
 out of the bowels of a volcano, forms a kind of haven by 
 means of a causeway communicating with the town; its 
 summit and sides are covered with houses, ancient tur¬ 
 rets, and ruinous fortifications, huddled together, and 
 accessible only on one side, by a Nteep, winding road. 
 On this rock is an old fortress, in ■which the last princes 
 of the house of An agon took refuge when Naples was 
 conquered by the french. Poria is ill built, without a 
 harbor. At a remote period this island was settled by 
 Esotrians and ( halsidians; and afterwards by Syracusans, 
 sent by Hero, who, how'ever, abandoned it in consequence 
 of the violent volcanic eruption, 470 B. C. 
 
 HALVE. 
 
 Baiae, a famous marine watering place of the ancient 
 Roman world, west of Naples, and two and a half miles 
 north of Cape Misenus ; indebted for its rise and celebrity 
 to the softness and serenity of its climate, the beauty of 
 its situation, the abundance ot h> hot springs, which gave 
 to the Romans, who were passionately fond of the bath, 
 the oppovtunit\ of !•: bilging in that luxury in even form 
 most acceptable. It came into lashion about tin* era of 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
39 
 
 Lucull us, who bad a splendid villa, either in the town or 
 its immediate neighborhood, as had also Caesar, Pompey, 
 and Augustus; and it continued to increase in popularity, 
 and to be a resort of the emperors, and of the affluent 
 voluptuaries of Home, till the eruption of the barbarians 
 under Theodoric the (doth. The town was built origin¬ 
 ally on the narrow slip of ground between the hills and 
 tile sea; but as this space was of but very limited dimen¬ 
 sions, after Baiae became a fashionable resort, the found¬ 
 ations of its streets and palaces were projected into the 
 bay itself. This is alluded to by Horace, in one of his 
 odes. 
 
 No sooner, however, had opulence withdrawn her pow¬ 
 erful hand, than the sea gradually resumed its old domain; 
 moles and buttresses were tom asunder, washed away, or 
 tumbled headlong into the deep; where, several feet be¬ 
 low the surface, pavements of streets, foundations of 
 houses, and masses of walls may still be described. Earth¬ 
 quakes and other convulsions of nature have also largely 
 contributed to the destruction of Baiae, of which only 
 portions of the ruins now remain. 
 
 GROTTO OF THE CVMAEN SIBYL. 
 
 The most celebrated of the Sibyls is that of Cumae, in 
 Italy. She demanded of Apollo to live as many years as 
 she had grains of sand in her hands, but forgot to ask for 
 health, vigor, and bloom, which she then possessed. He 
 granted her request; she afterwards faded and became 
 decrepit and lost her cheerfulness. She was reported to 
 be 700 years old when .Eneas came to Italy, and was ex¬ 
 pected to live three centuries more! She wrote her pro¬ 
 phecies on leaves, left at the entrance of her cave, and it 
 was necessary to consult them before dispersed by the 
 wind, else they became incomprehensible. 
 
 LAKE AVERNUS, 
 
 Is about 10 miles west of Naples, near the sea, occu¬ 
 pying what there is good reason to think is the crater of 
 an extinct volcano, and is surrounded by high hills, 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
40 
 
 except where there is an outlet, In which it formerly 
 communicated with the Luerine lake. It is from one and 
 a half to one and three-fourths miles in circumference; 
 the water clear, very deep, and well supplied with tench. 
 During the earl\ period of Roman history, the hills 
 around this lake were thickly covered with dense for¬ 
 ests, which gave it a gloomv appearance, and, by con¬ 
 fining the mephitic vapors that rose from the volcanic 
 soil, rendered the air extremely unhealthy. In conse¬ 
 quence, the place was regarded with superstitious awe. 
 The poet represented A vein us as sacred to the infernal 
 gods, and as being, in fact, the entrance by which Ulys¬ 
 ses and .linens descended to the lower regions. 
 
 It was said that no bird could fly over the lake with¬ 
 out being destroyed by its poisonous exhalations, and 
 lienee its name, A vermis. This is noticed by Virgil, in 
 well known lines. 
 
 But during the reign of Augustus, Agrippa dispelled 
 the obscurity and sanctity that had so long encircled 
 A vermis. He cut down its groves; and having joined 
 it to the Luerine hay. he brought ships into its solitudes, 
 and used it a> a harbor in which to exercise galleys. The 
 Luerine lake, or rather hay, w as almost entirely tilled up 
 by the subterraneous eruption of Monte Xuovo, in 153*. 
 (Du one side of the lake Avemus are the remains of a 
 large octagon temple, probably appropriated to the wor¬ 
 ship of Hecate; and opposite the temple, on the other 
 side the lake, is the opening of the subterranean conduit 
 usually called the grotto of the Sibyl, hut which was, in 
 fact, a tunnel leading from the lake to the sea. The hills 
 around the lake are now covered with gardens and vine¬ 
 yards, and are still at certain seasons unhealthy. 
 
 MONTE N10V0. 
 
 One is astonished that so great a pile should have beer! 
 thrown up in the short space of a night and a day, 
 thirty-six hours. Tt is that of a regular and picturesq 
 cone; and from its height it descr\o>, as it receives, 
 name of mountain. The epithet Xuovo is also suitable; 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
41 
 
 for, though it was formed three Imndrod years ago, it is a 
 thing of yesterday compared with “the eierlasting 1 tills," 
 which have stood from the beginning. It dates from 
 1)3S. and stands near the shore of t}ie hay of Baiae. The 
 earthquake which produced Monte Nuovo ingulfed the 
 village of Tripergoli, and filled up a great part of the 
 Lucrine lake. 
 
 THK TEMPLE OF JUNO. 
 
 This temple is supposed to have been erected nearly 
 two thousand years ago, on the margin of the lake of 
 Avemus. Tt was remarkable for its beauty and magnifi¬ 
 cence. Nothing now remains of it but a few ruins. 
 
 PUZZUOLI. 
 
 Puzzuoli, or the Pnteoli of the New Testament, where 
 Paul landed on his way from Home, is about four miles 
 from Naples, was erected by the inhabitants of Cumae, 
 and owes its name and fame to the Homans, who, two cen¬ 
 turies B. C., made it the emporium for the commerce of 
 the east. Its situation as a sea-port is unrivalled. It 
 stands on a point that juts out a little into the sea, nearly 
 in the centre of a fine bay called Puzzolano. What must 
 have been its animation and splendor when the riches of 
 the east poured into its bosom, and its climate, baths, and 
 beauty, allured the most opulent Romans to its vicinity! 
 Commerce has long forsaken it, and all the magnificence 
 of antiquity has been undermined by time, demolished by 
 barbarism, or levelled in the dust of earthquakes. But 
 the vestiges that remain, shapeless and deformed, are 
 numerous and vast enough to give some idea of its an¬ 
 cient extent and grandeur. Among them mav be mentioned 
 the amphitheatre and the temple of Serapis. The amphi¬ 
 theatre was unknown till within a very few years, being 
 entirely buried, not improbably by volcanic agency. It 
 has been wholh excavated, and is nearly entire. Tt has 
 forty-five grading or tiers of seats. The temple must 
 have been a grand affair in its day. Its marble pa\e- 
 
 4 * 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
42 
 
 ment appears to be nearly perfect; it is covered with 
 about two feet of sea-water, and small fishes swim over it. 
 Only three of the columns are standing, and these have 
 lost their capitals ; their height is from forty-five to fifty 
 feet. The base of a fallen one is about five feet in diam¬ 
 eter. This magnificent temple, and the size of the am¬ 
 phitheatre, which it is said would accommodate 45,000 
 spectators, are proof of the populousness of the ancient 
 Puteoli. At present the town has not more than 8,000 
 or 10,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Paul rested here seven days, being prayed to do so by 
 the brethren. 
 
 PALACE OF QUEEN J0ANA. 
 
 This was formerly one of the most spacious and mag¬ 
 nificent palaces in the country, and was the residence of 
 Queen Joana of Naples. It was supposed to be haunted, 
 and consequently deserted by the nobility, and is now 
 occupied by the peasantry and lazzaroni. 
 
 PAISILIPP0. 
 
 Pausilippo, a hill near Naples, with a large and beau¬ 
 tiful grotto. 'This is a straight passage cut through the 
 rock, from Naples to Puzzuoli; HO to 90 foot high, from 
 24 to 30 wide, and about 1.000 paces long. Through the 
 deep night of this grotto, which, though high and wide, 
 is inaccessible to the rays of the sun, passes the daily 
 travel of a very populous district. A powerful echo from 
 the roof increases the rumbling noise of the passage. 
 This cavern, of which so many fables were related in the 
 time of Strabo, was probably hewn out before the time of 
 the Romans, at first only as a quarry, but afterwards con¬ 
 tinued through the hill. Alfonso I. enlarged it. It was 
 subsequently made broader and higher, paved, and .pro¬ 
 vided with air holes. The whole rock is firm, and ha*, 
 never been shaken by earthquakes. In the centre th< re 
 is a Chapel of the Virgin Mary. Sine*- ! s22 the \us- 
 trian troops constructed a road over Puusilipp* ‘ i’uz- 
 zuoli, by which the passage through the gt >tt<> may Ik 
 avoided. 
 

 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
43 
 
 TOMB OF VIRGIL. 
 
 Near the grotto of Pausilippo are the ruins of an aque¬ 
 duct. and what is called Virgil’s tomb. It is partly covered 
 with ivy, fig trees, and brambles, which have taken root 
 here, and on the top of it is a laurel tree which seems to 
 crow n it. The mausoleum, on the inside, is about 18 feet 
 square, and 13 or 14 feet high from the floor to the top 
 of the roof. The ruins of this mausoleum are very pic¬ 
 turesque. The whole hill is covered with country seats 
 and gardens for summer resort, being protected from the 
 hot w inds of the south and west. 
 
 CITY OF NAPLES. 
 
 No situation for a city could be finer than that of Na¬ 
 ples, the capital of the kingdom of X., and the residence 
 of tin 1 Sovereign. Seated partly on the declivity of a hill, 
 partly on tin' margin of a spacious bay, it spreads its build¬ 
 ings along the shore, and covers the shelving coasts and 
 adjacent eminences with its villas and gardens. Its sub¬ 
 urbs stretch in one magnificent sweep, from Portici on 
 the E. to the promontory of Misenus on the W. The 
 extensive bay presents an almost unrivalled assemblage 
 of picturesque find beautiful scenery. On its N. W. side, 
 the shores of Puzzuoli rise in a gentle swell from the 
 water; while on the* E., Vesuvius, wuth its verdant sides 
 and black, smoking summit, bounds the prospect. The 
 centre contains the city, with its countless palaces, 
 churches, and gardens, rising one above the other, 
 backed by the heights, on which are the royal palace 
 of Capo di Monte, the observatory, and the grand castle 
 of St. Elmo. The view from the city seaward commands 
 the whole sweep of the harbor, bounded on the S. by the 
 promontory of Sorrentum, and having near its mouth, 
 Capri, Ischia, and other islands. The clearness of the 
 atmosphere and the mildness of the climate, complete the 
 gratification inspired by the scene, and justify the* epithet 
 of Mms, given to the city by the ancients. The city is 
 of an oblong form ; but, when beheld from an elevated 
 position, such as the ( arthusian monastery, the castle of 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
44 
 
 St. Elmo, or the church of Santa Maria del Pastu, it ap¬ 
 pears irregular, the surrounding country being so studded 
 with houses and villages that it is impracticable to mark 
 the line of separation between the town and the environs. 
 
 The streets are generally straight and well paved, 
 though without foot-paths; but they are narrow, and, be¬ 
 ing bordered by lofty houses, have, many of them, a dark, 
 gloomy appearance, that contrasts singularly with the 
 splendor of the surrounding country. The Strada di To¬ 
 ledo, the principal street, having at one end the Piazza di 
 Mercato, and on the other the royal palace, runs X. and 
 8. for about a mile; it is from 40 to 00 feet in width, 
 while the houses on either side are from five to seven sto¬ 
 ries in height. Few of the other streets are more than 
 30 feet wide, many not more than from 15 to 20, and 
 some not so much. The houses are flat roofed, and cov¬ 
 ered with a kind of stucco made of Puzzolano sand, 
 which becomes indurated on exposure to the atmosphere. 
 Most of them have balconies in front; and these, with 
 the booths and stalls with which the streets are constantly 
 occupied, make them look narrower than they really are. 
 There are several open spaces or /arc/hi , for they cannot 
 be called squares; they are very 7 irregular, both in aspect 
 and plan. 'The principal are decorated with fountains 
 and obelisks, and the city, on the whole, is well supplied 
 with water. 
 
 The collections of paintings, statues, and antiquities, 
 in Naples, are immense and invaluable. It would require 
 whole volumes to give an enumeration of them. 
 
 The public institutions are also numerous, and some of 
 them richly endowed. 
 
 In 1841, Naples had a population of 350,000. 
 
 Owing to its mild climate, a large proportion of the 
 people inhabit the streets, and carry on their business out 
 of doors: and the competition of parties so situated has 
 given rise to that universal turmoil and effort to attract 
 notice, that is at once so grotesque and so annoying to 
 strangers. Many of the lazzaroni are noble looking per¬ 
 sons, without a blemish in form or features. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
45 
 
 Naples, in its interior, has no parallel on earth. The 
 crowd of London is uniform and unintelligible; it is double 
 line in quick motion ; it is the crowd of business. The 
 crowd of Naples consists in a general tide, rolling up and 
 down ; and in the middle of this tide, a hundred eddies 
 of men. Here you are swept on by the current; there 
 you arc wheeled round by the vortex. 
 
 A diversity of trades dispute with you the streets. You 
 are stopped by a carpenter’s bench, jou are lost among 
 shoemaker’s stools, you dash among the posts of a maeca- 
 roni stall, and you escape behind a Lazzaroni’s basket. 
 In this region of caricature, (‘very bargain sounds like 
 a battle. 
 
 The people seem in general peaceful and contented ; 
 they consume little, and that little is cheap. For three 
 grains a day a man has his till of maccaroni; and for three 
 grains more he may have his friffasa, very good fish or 
 vegetables, and fried oil, at any of the innumerable stands 
 of itinerant cooks about the streets. A glass of ice-water 
 costs one sixth of a grain ; and. if properly seasoned with 
 lime and sugar, two grains. The price of these things is 
 kept down by the government; ice, or hardened snow, be¬ 
 ing abundantly supplied at the public expense from natu¬ 
 ral ice-houses in certain cavernous rocks above the Stabine 
 and Soraento, and even on V esuvius. The ice in baskets, 
 is made to slide down the mountain, along light ropes, 
 and land their precarious cargoes before day. 
 
 4'he country around Naples is as picturesque and beau¬ 
 tiful as can readily be imagined, and particularly interest¬ 
 ing from its classical associations. 
 
 VESUVIUS. 
 
 Vesuvius. Rising out of the great plain of Campania, 
 this is the only volcano of consequence on the European 
 continent. Only seven miles south-south-east of Naples, 
 it is usually visited by strangers there. You leave Porti- 
 ci, ascending: among: cultivated fields and vine cards, occa- 
 sionally traversed by streams of old lava, black, rough, and 
 sterile, and in an hour and a lalf reach the Hermitage, a 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
46 
 
 convent where a few monks keep a sort of inn for visitors 
 of the mountain. Further up you traverse large fields of 
 lava, extremely rough; and at the base of the cone, pre¬ 
 pare for the ascent over a heap of crumbling ashes and 
 cinders, extremely steep. In about an hour, stoppages in¬ 
 cluded, you find yourself on extremely hot ground, intol¬ 
 erable to the hand, and fatal to the soles of your shoes; 
 it teems with hot vapors, and is covered with beautiful 
 effervescences of sulphur. Smoke issues from numerous 
 crevices, at the entrance of which a piece of paper or a 
 stick takes fire in a few seconds ; and, what seems strange, 
 a stone thrown into one of these openings increases the 
 smoke at all the others. Stooping low, you can hear a 
 noise very like that of a liquid boiling. The hard but thin 
 crust upon which you stand, appears to have settled down 
 in some places; a woful indication of its hollow state. 
 After a few steps more, you arrive at the edge of the cra¬ 
 ter, on the very summit of the cone, being a slope of gray 
 ashes and cinders, much like that by which you ascended, 
 and scarcely more precipitous, ending at the depth of 400 
 or 500 feet, in a level place, with gray ashes like' the rest. - 
 The view from the summit is extremely various, exten¬ 
 sive, rich, and beautiful. 
 
 ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS. 
 
 From the earliest records down to the reign of Titus 
 Vespasian, the volcano seems to have been inactive; the 
 appearance of its crater and its cavernous structure being 
 the onlv indications bv which Strabo conjectured that it 
 might at some distant period have been on fire! 
 
 But in the first year of Titus, (A. D. 79,) the volcano 
 burst forth with tremendous energy. The flourishing 
 cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii, near the sea, were 
 both overwhelmed by lava and ashes ! Even the figure of 
 the coast was changed ; and for more than 1,600 years all 
 trace of the buried cities was completely lost. They were on¬ 
 ly accidentally discovered in the course of the last century. 
 The elder Pliny lost his life during this dreadful eruption ; 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
47 
 
 which has been described by the younger Pliny, by whom 
 it was witnessed, and by Tacitus.. 
 
 Since the destruction of Herculaneum and Pompeii there 
 have been forty-five eruptions ; none of them equal to that 
 in destructive power. Of those which happened down to 
 the l*2th century, we have few accounts. From 1138 to 
 1631, there were but two slight eruptions ; during this in¬ 
 terval, however, the formation of Monte Nuovo in the 
 Phlegmon Fields took place. In 1631, a violent eruption 
 occurred, and seven streams of lava poured from the crater. 
 From 1666 to the present time, there have been a series 
 of eruptions, the 1 longest intervals between them rarely 
 exceeding ten years. The last eruption was in January, 
 1839. The energy of Vesuvius, when in action, is ex¬ 
 tremely great, and the spectacle sublime. In the erup¬ 
 tion of 1799, jets of liquid lava were thrown up to the 
 height of at least 10,000 feet; having the appearance of 
 a column of flames ; and in that of 1793, millions of red- 
 hot stones were shot into the air to full half the height 
 of the cone itself, and then bending, fell all round in an 
 immense arch, covering nearly half the cone with fire.