Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/diaryofjohnevelyOOevel_0 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, ESQ., F.R.S. THE " CHANDOS CLASSICS." THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, ESQ., F.R.S. FROM 1 64 1 TO 1705-6. WITH MEMOIR. EDITED BY WILLIAM BRAY, Esq., FELLOW AND TKEASUKEK OF THE SOCIKTY OK ANTIC^UAKIES OF LONDON. LONDON : FREDERICK WARNE AND NEW YORK. AND CO. TO JOHN EVELYN OF WOTTON IN SURREY, ESQ. Sir, The last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the late LadY Evelyn, under whose permission it was to be given to the public, were in the hands of the Printer, when it pleased God to release her from a long and painful illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude and resignation to the Divine Will. These papers descended, with the estate, from the celebrated JOHN Evelyn, Esq. (a relative of your immediate ancestor), to his great- great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick Evelyn, Bart. This Gentleman dying without issue, intrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we have now to lament ; of whose worth, and of the value of whose friend- ship, I have happily had long knowledge and experience. Alive to the honour of the family, of which she was thus made the representative, she maintained it in every point, and with the most active benevolence; and her care extended to every part of the property attached to the domain. Mr. Evelyn had formed in his own mind a plan of what he called an * Elysium Britannicum,' in which the Library and Garden were intended to be the principal objects : could he return and visit this his beloved seat, he would find his idea realized, by the arrange- ment and addition which her Ladyship had made to his library, and by the disposition of the flower-garden and green-house, which she had embellished with the most beautiful and curious flowers and plants, both native and exotic. In completion and full justification of the confidence thus reposed m her, her Ladyship has returned the estate, with its vr luable appendages, to the family, in your person. I have, therefore, now to offer these Volumes ' to you. Sir, with a wish, that you and your posterity may long enjoy the possessions, and continue the line of a Family so much distinguished in many of its branches, for superior worth and eminence. I am. Sir, Your most obedient, and most humble servant, Jhere, 2 Jan. 1818. WILLIAM BRAY. 1 Bibliosp-iiphic notice, from' L(rTvndes* p. 767. Fifth edition, 2 vols., port, and plates. Secotid edit , 2 vols., 115^. dd. Third edit., % vols. 8vo., zas. Fetirth edit., 4 xwls.^ 43* Fifth edit., 4 vols , z^j. Bohns edit.. 4 vols., 2o,t. PREFACE. The lollowing pages are taken from the Journal of JOHN EvELVN, Esq., author (amongst many other works) of the celebrated Sylva, a Treatise on Forest Trees, and from which he has often been known by the name of The Sylva Evelyn. The Journal is written by him in a very small, close hand, in a quarto volume, containing 700 pages, which commences in 1641 and is continued to the end of 1697, and from thence is carried on in a smaller book till within about three weeks of his death, which happened 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the 86th year of his age. These books, with numberless other papers in his handwriting, are in the valuable Library at Wotton, which was chiefly collected by him. Lady Evelyn, the late possessor of that very respectable old Mansion, after much solicitation from many persons, consented to favour the Public with this communication. The last sheets were in the hands of the Printer, when the death of that Lady happened. The Editor who has been entrusted with the preparation of the work for the press, is fully diffident of his competence to make a proper selection, and is even aware that many things will be found in its pages which, in the opinion of some, and not injudicious, Critics, may appear too unimportant to meet the public eye : but it has been thought that some information, at least some amusement, would be furnished by the publication ; it has been supposed that some curious particulars of persons and transactions would be found in the accom- panying notes ; and that, though these papers may not be of importance enough to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom, they may in some particulars set even such an one right ; and, though the notices are short, they may, as to persons, give some hints to Biogra- phers, or at least may gratify the curiosity of those who are inquisitive after the mode in which their ancestors conducted their business, or passed their time. Thus, when mention is made of great men going after dinner to attend a Council of State, or the business of their particular Offices, or the Bowling Green, or even the Church ; of an Hour's Sermon bemg of a moderate length ; of Ladies painting their faces being a novelty, or of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing, after having just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant of a lady of fashion tra- velling on a pillion behind one of the footmen, and the footmen riding with swords ; such things may not be altogether incurious. For many Corrections, and many of the Notes, the Editor acknow- PREFACE. Ai ledges, \Ni-h great pleasure and regard, that he is indebted to James Bindley, Esq.' of Somerset House, a Gentleman who possessed an invaluable Collection of the most rare Books and Pamphlets, and whose liberality in communications was equal to the abihty afforded by such a collection. He has also to acknowledge how much he is obliged for many his- torical notes and elucidations to a literary Gentleman very conversant with English History, whose name he would gladly give, were it not withheld by particular request, and whose research has doubtless ,i]^iven additional interest to this work. The Editor, finally, returns his best thanks to Mr. Upcott, of the London Institution, for the great and material assistance received from him in this Publication, besides his attention to the superintendence of the Press. MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of King Charles I. Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II. King James II. and King William, and he early accustomed himself to note such things as occurred which he thought worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had much personal intercourse with, the Kings Charles II. and James II. ; and he was in habits of great intimacy with many of the Ministers of those two Monarchs, and with many of the eminent men of those days, as well amongst the Clergy as the Laity. Foreigners distinguished for learning or arts, who came to England, did not leave it without visiting him. In the first edition of the Bwtf. Brit, in folio. Dr. Campbell has a long article relating to this gentleman ; and the following pages will produce farther particulars of this eminent man. They will shew that he did not travel merely to count steeples, as he expresses himself in one of his letters : they will develope his private character as being of the most amiable kind. With -a strong predilection for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings Charles II. and James II., formed when they resided at Paris, he was yet utterly averse to the arbitrary measures of those Monarchs. Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and practice of the Church of England, he felt the most liberal sentiments for those who differed from him in opinion. He lived in intimacy with men ot all persuasions, nor did he think it necessary to break connexions with 1 Died, in the 8ist year cf his age, Sept ii, i8j8. viil PREFACE. any one who had even been induced to desert the Church of England and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. He speaks with great moderation of the Roman CathoHcs in general, admitting that some of the Laws enacted against them might be miti- gated ; but of the Jesuits he had the very worst opinion, considering them as a most dangerous Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes which befell King James II., and the horrible persecutions of the Protestants in France and Savoy. He must have conducted himself with uncommon prudence and dis- cretion, for he had personal friends in the Court of Cromwell, at the same time that he was corresponding with his father-in-law Sir Rich. Browne, the Ambassador of Charles II. at Paris; and at the same period that he paid his Court to the King, he maintained his intimacy with a disgraced Minister. In his travels he made acquaintance not only with men eminent for learning, but with men ingenious in every art and profession. His manners we may presume to have been of the most agreeable kind, for his company was sought by the greatest men, not merely by inviting him to their own table, but by their repeated visits to him at his own house ; and this was equally the case with regard to the ladies, of many of whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec- tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian, and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal is manifest, but at what time he found opportunities for study, it does not seem easy to say ; he acknowledges himself to have been idle while at Oxford ; and when on his travels he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was likewise stationary for some time. At Rome lie remained a considerable time ; but whilst there he was so continually engaged in viewing the great abundance of interesting objects to be seen in that City, that he could have found little leisure for reading. When resident in England, he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous offices, in pay- ing visits, in receiving company at home, and in examining whatever was deemed worthy of curiosity or of scientific observation, that it is astonishing to think how he found the opportunity to compose the numerous books which he published, and the much greater number of papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in manuscript ^ ; to say nothing of the very extensive and voluminous Correspondence which he appears to have carried on during the period of his long life, with men of the greatest eminence in Church and State, and the most distinguished for learning, both Englishmen and Foreigners. In this correspondence he does not seem to have made use of an amanuensis, and he has left transcripts in his own hand oV great numbers of Letters Amongst these there is a Bible bound in three volumes, the pages filled with notes. PREFACE. ix both received and sent. He observes, indeed, m one of these, that he seldom went to bed before 12, or closed his eyes before i o'clock. He was happy in a wife of coni^^-enial dispositions with his own, of an enlightened mind, who had read much, was skilled in etching and paint- ing, yet attentive to the domestic concerns of her household, and a most affectionate mother. Of her personal beauty an idea may be formed from the print, engraved from a most exquisite drawing in pencil by that celebrated French artist Nantcuil, in 1650. Dr. Bohun, who knew Mrs. Eveiyn intimately, 1 avi;iLr resided with her family for a long time as tutor to her son, describes her not only as an eloquent letter-writer, a wit and a b eauty, but as " the best of daughters and wives, the most tender of mothers, and the most amiable of friends." Some of her letters have been preserved, and confirm his eulogium of them. I'he grandfather of John Evelyn, George, was not the first ofthefamily who settled in Surrey; John, father of this George, was of Kingston in 1520, and married a daughter of David Vincent, Esq. Lord of the Manor of Long Ditton, near Kingston, which afterwards came into the hands of George, who there carried on the manufacture of gunpowder. He purchased very considerable estates in Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of three families, viz. Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton ; Jolm at Godstone, and Richard at Wotton. Each of these three families had the title of Baronet conferred on them at different times, viz, at Godstone in 1660, Long Ditton in 1683, and Wotton in 17 13. The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at Godstone as well as at Long Ditton, but it does not appear that there ever was any mill at Wotton, or that the purchase of that place was made with such a view. Nor does it appear that Mr. Evelyn's grandfather plaiited the timber, with which Wotton was, and always has been, so well stored. The soil produces it naturally, and it has at all times been carefully preserved, besides what has been planted, furnishing abundance for cutting at proper seasons. It may be not altogether incurious to observe, that, though Mr. Evelyn's father was a man of very considerable fortune, the first rudi- ments of this son's learning were acquired from the village schoolmaster over the porch of Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and at college, he himself speaks with great humility ; nor did he add much to his stock of knowledge whilst he resided in the Middle Temple, to which his father sent him, with intention that he should apply to what he calls *an impolished study,' which he says he never liked. More will be said of this in a subsequent page. The public troubles coming on before he had engaged in any settled plan for his future life, it appears that he had thou;^hts of living in the most private manner, and that, with his brother's permission, he had even begun to prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he X PREFACE. afterwards wholly abandon this intention, if the plan of a philosophical College which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really formed on a serious idea. His answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie's panegyric on Solitude, in which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, and urges the preference to which public employment and an active life is entitled, might be supposed a playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing with his own opinion, if we think him serious in two letters to Mr. Abraham Cowley, dated 12 March and 24 August 1666. In truth, his mind was too active to admit of solitude, however desirable it might at some times appear to him in Theory. After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time of Crom- well, he kept up a constant correspondence with Sir Rich. Browne (his father-in-law) the King's Ambassador at Paris ; and though his con- nection must have been known, it does not appear that he met with any interruption from the Government here. Indeed, though he re- mained a decided Royalist, he managed so well as to have intimate friends amongst those nearly connected with Cromwell ; and to this we may attribute his being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he never did take. In 1659 he published ' An Apology for the Royal Party,' and soon after he printed a paper which was of great service to the King, entitled 'The late News or Message from Brussells unmasked,' which was a pamphlet designed to represent the King in the worst light. On the Restoration we find him very frequently at Court, and he became engaged in many public employments, still attending to his studies and literary pursuits. Amongst these is particularly to be mentioned the Royal Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's library to be given to them ; and in 1667 the Arundelian Marbles to the Uni- versity of Oxford. His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as a Commis- sioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets and incumbrances, and regulating Hackney coaches in London. In the same year he sat as a Commissioner on an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c. concerning Sir Tho. Gresham's charities. In 1664 he was in a Com- mission for regulating the Mint; and in the same year he was appointed one of the Commissioners for the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch War ; and was continued in the same employment in tht second War with that Country. He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of St. Paul's Cathe- dral shortly before it was burnt in 1666. In that year he was in a Commission for regulating the farming and making of Saltpetre. PREFACE. xi In 167 1 he was made a Commissioner of Plantations on the estab- lishment of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added in 1672. In 1685 he was one ot the Commissioners of the Privy Seal during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who held that office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital in 1695, he was one of the Commissioners; and on 30 June 1696, he laid the first stone of that building. He was appointed Treasurer with a salary of ^200 a year, but he says it was a long time before he received any part of it. When the Czar of Muscovy came to England in 1698, he was de- sirous of having the use of Sayes Court, as being near the King^s Dock-yard at Deptford, where that Monarch proposed instructing him- self in the art of Ship-building. During his stay he did so much damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of ^.150 for it. He parti- cularly regrets the mischief done to his famous holly hedge, which might have been thought beyond the reach of damage.' October 1699, his elder brother George Evelyn dying without male issue, aged 83, he succeeded to the paternal estate ; and in May follow- ing he quitted Sayes Court and went to Wotton, where he passed the remainder of his life, except going occasionally to London, where Tie had a house. In the great storm in 1703 he mentions, in his last edition of the Syiva, that above 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his house. He died at his house in London, 27 Feb. 1705-6, in the eighty sixth year of his age, and was buried at Wotton. His Lady survived him nearly three years, dying 9 Feb. 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth year, and was buried near him at Wotton. His personal character was truly amiable. In the relative duties of father, husband, and friend, few could exceed him. Of Mr. Evelyn's children, one son, who died at the age of five, and one daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were almost prodigies. The particulars of their extraordinary endowments, and the deep manner in which he was affected by their deaths, may be seen in his letters, and cannot be read without exciting the most tender emotions. One daughter was well and happily settled ; another less happily, but she did not survive her marriage more than a few months. The only son who lived to the age of manhood inherited his father'i love of learning, and distinguished himself by several publications. Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner of the Sick and Wounded was a very laborious one, and from the nature of it must have been extremely unpleasant. Almost the whole labour was in his depait- i It is said that one of Czar Peter's favourite recreations was to demolish the hedges ky riilinR tlirongh them in a wheelbarrow. xii PREFACE. ment, which included all the Ports between the River Thames and Portsmouth ; he had to travel in all seasons and weathers, by land and by water, in the execution of his office, to which he gave the strict- est attention. It was rendered still more unpleasant by the great difficulty which he found in procuring money for support of the Pri- soners. In the Library at Wotton are copies of numerous letters to the Lord Treasurer and Officers of State, representing, in the strong est terms, the great distress of the poor men, and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries for them. At one time there were such arrears of payment to the victuallers, that on landing additional sick and wounded, they lay some time in the streets, the publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their houses. After all this trouble and fatigue he found as great difficulty in getting his accounts settled ^ In Jan. 1665-6 he formed a plan for an Infirmary at Chat- ham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid before the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it ; but ic does not appear that it was carrisvl into execution. His business relating to the repair of St. Paul's (which, however, was very short), that of a Commissioner of Trade and Plantations, and for building Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted to his inclina- tion and pursuits. As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign of K. James II. he had a difficult task to perform. He was most steadily attached to the Church of England, and the King required the Seal to be put to many things incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This on some occasions he refused to do, particularly to a Licence to Dr. Obadiah Walker to print Popish books'; and on others absented him- self, leaving it to his brother Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such, however, was the King's opinion of him, that he shewed no dis- pleasure on this account. With respect to Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Col. Morley (who was Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower, and who held it at the time immediately preceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an imperfect account of it is given in the Biographia. The fact is, that there was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Mr. Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's 1 a Oct. 1665, he writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington, Sir William Coventry, and Sir Pliilip Warwick, complaining of want of money for the Prisoners, and praying that whilst he and his brother Commissioners adventure their persons, and all that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandon- ing their care ; they have lost their officers and servants by the pestilence, and are hourly environed with the saddest objects of perishing people. — * I have,' says he, ' 15 places full of sick men, where they put me to unspeakable trouble; the Magistrates and Justices, who should further us in our exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous 0/ the contagion, and causing lliem to shut their doors at our approach.' 2 Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, but had renounced it, ap-i turned Papist. PREFACE. xiii interest ; he saw him several times, and put his life into his hands by writing to him on 12 Jan. 1659-60 ; he did not succeed, and Col. Morley was too much his friend to betray him ; but so far from the Colonel having settled matters privately with Sir Anth. Ashley Cooper, or General Monk\ as there stated, when the Restoration took place, Col. Morley actually applied to Mr. Evelyn to obtain his pardon, and Mr. Evelyn obtained it accordingly, though, as the latter states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a sum of money. This could not have happened if he had previously joined with General Monk. Mr. Evelyn's book intitled ' Navigation and Commerce, their Original and Progress,' was nothing more than an Introduction to the History of the Dutch War, a work undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express command of King Charles II., and the materials for which were fur- nished by the Officers of State. The completion of this work, after a considerable progress had been made in it, was put a stop to by the King him.self; for what reason does not appear; but perhaps it was found that Mr. Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the truth con- cerning a transaction which it will be seen by his Journal he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far as it had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend Mr. Samuel Pepys of the Admiralty, who did not return it. ' The Mystery of Jesuitism' consisted of three volumes, published in different years. The translation of the second was undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express desire of Lord Clarendon and his son, as appears by a letter of Mr. E. to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 Feb. 1664. The third was translated by Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn. In giving a Hst of Mr. Evelyn's Publications, the Authors of the Biographia say, ' As several of these treatises were printed before the Author's return to England, and others without his name, we must depend on the general opinion of the world, and the authority of Mr. Wood, for their being his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a mistake.' They say, ' We know nothing of the " Mundus Muliebris ; or, the Ladies' Dressing Room unlocked," except that it has had a place in the Catalogue of our Author's Works, from which therefore we have no right to remove it.' There iS no doubt of his being the author : under 1685 Mr. Evelyn, in his account of his daugnter Mary, says she ' put in many pretty symbols in the " Mundus Muliebris," wherein is an enumeration 01 the immense variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the sex.' In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated <) Feb. 1664, he speaks of having written a Play. 1 Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General Monk's conduct on this occasion written by John Price, D.D. (who was sent to him on the King's behalf, and had continual intercourse with him), published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maserea in 181S. xiv PREFACE. The Authors of the Brit, say, 'The account which Mr. Boyle received from Mr. Evelyn of the method used by the Italians for pre- serving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of that care with which he registered his discoveries, as weJl as the curiosity which prompted him to enquire into every thing worthy of notice, either natural or arti- ficial, in the countries through which he passed. It is much to be regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as the History of his Travels would have been, appeared, even to so indefatigable a per- son as he was, a task too laborious for him to undertake ; for we should then have seen clearly, and in a true light, many things in reference to Italy which are now very indistinctly and partially represented ; and we should also have met with much new matter never touched before, and of which we shall now probably never hear at all.' What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly supplied in the following volume, but not so fully as could be wished. That he made many observations which will not be found here, appears by the above quotation from Mr. Boyle, and by an account of the manner of making bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Houghton, a Fellow of the Royal Society, who published it in some papers which he printed weekly in 1681 and following years. It is presumed that Mr. Evelyn had made many other observations not found in this Journal, and the notes of which have not been discovered amongst his papers. From the numerous Authors who have spoken in high terms of this Gentleman, we will insert the two following characters of him : In the Biog. Brit. Dr. Campbell says, ' It is certain that very few Authors who have written in our language deserve the character of able and agreeable writers so well as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was acquainted with most sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, yet was very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from iDeing a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he had learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper place in his works, so as never to pass for a Pedant, even with such as were least in love with literature, and to be justly esteemed a polite Author by those who knew it best.' — Vol. V. p. 614, note I. Mr. Hor. Walpole, in his Catalogue of Engravers, also gives the following admirably-drawn character of him: ' If Mr. Evelyn had not been an Artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, I should yet have found it difficult to deny myself the pleasure of allotting him a place among the Arts he loved, promoted, patronized ; and it would be but justice to inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, as I have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise him : but they are trifling blemishes compared with his amiable virtues and beneficence ; and it may be remarked, that the worst I have said of him is, that he knew more than he always communicated. It is no unwelcome satire to say, that a man's intelligence and philosophy is inexhaustible. I PREFACE. XV mean not to write his Life, which may be found detailed in the nev. edition of his ' Sculptura,' in Collins's ' Baronetage.' in the ' General Dictionary,' and in the new * Biographical Dictionary ;' but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to 86 years, was a course of enquiry, study, curiosity, instruction, and benevolence. The works of the Creator, and the minute labours of the creature, were all objects of his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of the one, and assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from examination ; was a cour- tier that flattered only by informing his prince, and by pointing out what was worthy for him to countenance ; and really was the Neigh- bour of the Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works will subscribe to my assertion. He was one of the first promoters of the Royal Society ; a patron of the ingenious and the indigent ; and peculiarly serviceable to the lettered world ; for besides his writings and dis- coveries, he obtained the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. — Nor is it the least part of his praise, that he, who proposed to Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical College for retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write in defence of active life against Sir Geo. Mackenzie's Essay on Solitude. He knew that retirement, in his own hands, was industry, and benefit to mankind ; but in those of others, laziness and inutility.' His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, Oxford, and when about 1 5 years old he wrote that elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed to the second edition of the ' Sylva.' He translated Rapin on Gardens, in four books, written in Latin verse. His father annexed the second book of this to the second edition of his ' Sylva.' He also translated from the Greek of Plutarch the life of Alexander the Great, printed in volume iv. of ' Plutarch's Lives by several Hands ; 'and from the French, the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and Achmet Coprogli. There are several Poems of his, of which some are printed in Dryden's Miscellanies, and more in Nichols's Collection of Poems. In December 1688 he was presented to the Prince of Orange at Abington by Col. Sidney and Col. Berkley, and was one of the volun- teers in Lord Lovelace's troop, when his Lordship secured Oxford for the Prince. In 1690 he purchased the place of Chief Clerk of the Treasury ; but in the next year he was by some means removed from it by Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In August 1692 he was made one of the Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, from whence he returned to England in 1696 in very ill health, and died 24th March, 1698, in his father's life-time. He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Rich. Spenser, Esq., a Turkey merchant, by whom he had two sons and three daughters. The eldest son, and the eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest xvi PREFACE. daughter, Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Elizabeth, mar- ried Simon Harcourt, Esq. son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt. Sep. 1 8, 1705, the sen John, who had succeeded his grandfather at Wotton, married Anne, daughter of Ed. Boscawen, Esq. of the county of Cornwall ; and by letters patent, dated 30 July 17 13, was created a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the taste for learning, as well as the patrimony, of his ancestors, and lived at Wotton universally loved and respected. He built a Library there, 45 feet long, 14 wide, and as many high, for the reception of the large and curious collection of books made by his grandfather, father, and himself, and where they now remain. He was a Fellow of the Royal Society, was long the First Commissioner of the Customs, and died July 15, 1763, in the eighty-second year of his age. By his lady, who died before him, he had several children, and was succeeded by John the eldest, who married Mary daughter of Hugh Boscawen, Viscount Falmouth, and died 11 June, 1767, in the sixty- first year of his age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick Prince of Wales, father of Gcorfre HL, to George IlL when Prince of Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He represented the Borough of Helston in several ParUaments, and to the time of his death. He had only one son, Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate, and three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried ; the third, Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, Rector of Wotton and Abinger, but she died without issue. Sir Frederick was in the army in the early part of his life, and was in Elliofs Light-Horse when that Regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous Battle of Minden in Germany in 1759. He married Mary, daughter of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire, and, dying without issue in 181 2, he left his estates to his Lady. She lived at Wotton, where she fully maintained the honour and great respect which had so long attended the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed in her garden and green-house, where she had a curious collection of exotic, as well as native, shrubs and flowers. The Library shared her atten- tion ; besides making additions to it, she had a complete Catalogue arranged by Mr. Upcott of the London Institution. This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, devising it to John Evelyn, Esq. who descended from George Evelvn, the purchaser of this estate in 1 579. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, KALENDARIUM. I WAS borne at Wotton, in the county of Surrey, 31 Oct., 1620^ after my Father had been married about seven yeares ', and my Mother had borne him two daughters and one sonn, viz. Eliza, 28 Nov., 1614: Jane, 16 Feb., 1615; George, 18 June, 1617. They had another sonn after me, Richard, born 4 Dec, 1622. My Father, named Richard, was of a sanguine complexion, mixed with a dash of choler: his haire inclining to light, which tho' very thick became hoary by that time he was 30 yeares of age; it was somewhat curled towards the extremity ; his beard, which he wore a little picked, as the mode was, of a brownish colour, and so continued to the last, save that it was somewhat mingled with grey haires about his cheekes : which, with his countenance, was cleare, and fresh colour'd, his eyes quick and piercing, an ample forehead, manly aspect ; low of stature, but very strong. So exact and temperate, that I haue heard he had never been surprised by excesse, being ascetic and sparing. His wisdom was greate, his judgment acute ; of sohd dis- course, affable, humble, and in nothing affected ; of a thriving, neate, silent, and methodical genius ; discreetly severe, yet liberal on all just occasions, to his children, strangers, and servants ; a lover of hospi- tality ; of a singular and Christian moderation in all his actions ; a Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum ; he served his Country as High Sheriff for Surrey and Sussex together'. He was a studious decliner of honours and titles, being already in that esteem with his country that they could have added little to him beside their burden He was a person of that rare conversation, that upon frequent recoUec- lion. and calling to mind passages of his life and discourse, I could never charge him with the least passion or inadvertence. His estate was esteem'd about £/^,ooo per ann. well wooded and fvill of timber. 1 He was married at St. Thomas's Church, Southwark, 27 Jan. 1613. 2 Formerly the two Counties had, in general, only one SherifiF, thoufrh sometimes distinct one?; : in 1637 each County had its Sheriff, and so it has continued ever since. 2 " Rectaved the 29 Oct., 1630. of Richard Evllnge of Wcttone in the Countye of Surt' Esq. ; by waie of coniposic'one to the use of his Mae., being appointed by his M. Collector for the same, for his Fine for not apearinge at the time and place apoynted for receavinge order of Knighthoi d. the soiunie of livetypound 1 .s.;y receaved Tho. Csymbs." 2 l8 DESCRIPTION AND SITUATION OF WOTTON, SURREY. My Mother's name was Elianor, sole daughter ' and heyresse of John Standsfield Esq. ; of an ancient and honorable family (though now extinct) in Shropshire, by his wife Elianor Comber of a good and well knowne house in Sussex. She was of proper personage ; of a browne complexion ; her eyes and haire of a lovely black ; of constitu- tion inclyned to a religious melancholy, or pious sadnesse ; of a rare memory and most exemplary life ; for oeconomie and prudence esteemed one of the most conspicuous in her Country. So much touching my parents ; nor was it reasonable I should r^peake lesse of them to whom I owe so much. Wotton, the mansion house of my father, left him by my grand- father, (now my eldest brother's) is situated in the most Southern part of the Shire, and tho' in a vally, yet really upon part of Lyth Hill, one of the most eminent (993 feet) in England for the prodigious prospect to be seen from its summit, tho' by fev/ observed. From it may be dis- cern'd 12 or 13 Counties, with part of the Sea on the Coast of Sussex, in a serene day ; the house large and ancient, suitable to those hos- pitable times, and so sweetly environed with those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the judgement of Strangers as well as Eng- lishmen it may be compared to one of the most pleasant Seates in the Nation, and most temptmg for a great person and a wanton purse to render it conspicuous : it has rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance. The distance from London little more than 20 miles (nearly 26 miles) and yet so securely placed as if it were 100 ; three miles from Dorking, which serves it abundantly with provisions as well of land as sea; 8 from Gilford, 14 from Kingston. I will say nothing of the ayre, because the praseminence is universally given to Surrey, the soil being dry and sandy ; but I should speake much of the gardens, fountaines, and groves, that adorne it ; were they not as generaly knowne to be amongst the most natural, and (til this later and universal luxury of the whole nation, since abounding in such expenses) the most magnificent that England afforded, and which indeede gave one of the first examples to that elegancy since so much in vogue and follow'd in the managing of their waters, and other ornaments of that nature. Let me add, the contiguity of 7 Manners, the patronage of the livings about it,^ and, what is none of the least advantages, a good neighbourhood. All which conspire to render it fit for the present possessor, my worthy brother, and his noble lady, whose constant liberality give them title both to the place and the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the poet, Nescio qua natale solum dulcedine cunctos Ducit, et im'emores non sinit esse sui. 1 Born 17 Nov. i where now her monument stands. 1635. My deare Mother departed this life upon the 29 Sept., about the 37th of her age and 22d of her marriage ; her death hastened by excessive grief for the losse of her daughter. When near her death, she summoned all her children then living (I shall never forget it), and express'd herself in a manner so heavenly, with instructions so pious and Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extraordinary losse then imminent ; after which, embracing every one of us, she gave to each a ring, with her blessing. Then taking my Father by the hand, she recommended us to his care ; and having importun'd him that what he design'd to bestow on her funeral he would rather dispose among the poore, she labour'd to compose herselfe for the blessed change which she now expected. There was not a servant in the house whom she did not expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her counsell. Though her Physicians, Dr. Merwell, Dr. Clement, and Dr. Rand, had given over all hopes of her recovery, and Sr. Sanders Duncombe tried his celebrated and famous powder, she was many days impairing, and endur'd the sharpest conflicts of her sicknesse with admirable ^ He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1626, and of the King's Bench ir 1631. There is a monument for him in Westminster Abbey. Fuller says he lived too ncai the time to speake fully of him. He took on him to issue an order against keeping wakes on Sundays, which Laud, then Bishop of Bath and Wells took up as an infringement of the rights of Bishops, and got him severely reprimanded at the Council Table. He was owner of Star- bgroufih Castle in Lingfield in Surrey. Bray's History of Surrey vol. II. 34$. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 21 patience and most Christian resignation, retaining her intellectuals and ardent affections for her dissolution to the very article of her departure When near her dissolution, she laid her hand on every one of hei children, and taking solemn leave of my Father, with elevated heart and eyes she quietly expired, and resign'd her soule to God. She was interr'd, as neere as might be, to her daughter Darcy, 3 Oct. at night, but with no meane ceremony. 1 1636. This yeare being extreamely dry, the pestilence much in- creased in London and divers parts of England. 13 Feb. I was admitted into the Middle Temple, London, though absent, and as yet at schoole. 3d April, 1637. 1 left schoole, where, till about the last yeare, I had been extreamely remisse in my studies, so as I went to the Universitie rather out of shame of abiding longer at schoole, than for any fitnesse, as by sad experience I found, which put me to re-learne all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gain'd. 10 May. I was admitted a fellow communer of Baliol College, Oxford, and on the 29th 1 was matriculated in the Vestry at St. Marie's, where I subscribed the Articles and took the oaths. Dr. Baily, head of St. John's, being Vice Chancelor, afterwards Bp. The Fellow Communers in Balliol were no more exempt from exercise than the meanest scholars there, and my Father sent me thither to one Mr. Geo. Bradshaw {no7ne7t invisu7n / yet the son of an excellent father, beneficed — Rector of Ock- ham — in Surrey.) 1 ever thought my Tutor had parts enough, but as his ambition made him much suspected of the College, so his grudge to Dr. Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterwards supplanted) tooke up so much of his tyme, that he seldom or never had the oppor- tunity to discharge his duty to his scholars. This I perceiving, asso- ciated myself with one Mr. Jas. Thicknesse (then a young man of the Foundation, afterwards a Fellow of the House,) by whose learned and friendly conversation I received great advantage. At my first arival, Dr. Parkhurst was Master ; and after his discease. Dr. Lawrence, a chaplaine of his Ma'ties and Margaret Professor, succeeded, an accute and learned person ; nor do I much reproch his severity, considering that the extraordinary remissencsse of discipline had (til his coming) much detracted from the reputation of that Colledg. There came in my tyme to the Coll : one Nathaniel Conopios out of Greece, from Cyrill the Patriarch of Constantinople, who returning many years after, was made (as 1 understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the first I ever saw drink coffee, which custom came not into Eng- land till 30 years after. After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities (for then was Ine University exceedingly regular, under the exact discipline of William * An account of the visit made by K. Charles I. and his Queen to the University of Oxforti, tn Sept. 1636, is given in this work in a letter from Geo. Evelyn, Esq. to his Father. 22 AT CAMBRIDGE- IN SOMERSETSHIRE— AND IN LONDON. Lawd, Abp. of Canterbury, then Chancelor,) I added, as benefactor to the Library of the Coll. these books : Zanchii Opera^ vols, i, 2, 3. Granado in Thomam Aquinatem^ vols. I, 2, 3. Novarini Electa sacra, and Cresolii Anthologia sacra, authors (it seems) desired by the students of Divinity there. 1637. At Christmas the Gentlemen of Exeter College presented a Comedy to the University. I was admitted into the dauncing and vaulting Schole, of which late activity one Stokes, the Master, set forth a pretty book, which was published with many witty elogies before it.' 1638. My Father order'd that I should begin to manage myne owne expenses, which till then my Tutor had done; at which I was much satisfied. 1639. I began to look on the rudiments of musick, in which I afterwards ariv'd to some formal knowledge, though to small perfec- tion of hand, because I was so frequently diverted by inclinations to newer trifles. 20 May. Accompany'd with one Mr. Jo. Crafford, (who afterwards being my fellow-traveller in Italy there chang'd his religion,) I tooke a journey of pleasure to see the Sumersetshire Bathes, BristoU, Ciren- cester, Malmesbury, Abington, and divers other townes of lesser note, and returned the 25th. 1640. Came my bro. Richard from schole to be my chamber-fellow at the University. He was admitted the next day, and matriculated the 31st. I I April. I went to London to see the solemnity of his Majesties riding through the Citty in state to the Short Parliament, which began the 13th following, a very glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled with his royal diademe and the affections of his people. 27 April. I went to London to be resident in the Middle Temple. My being at the University, in regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to me. 5 May was the Parliament unhappily dissolved. 20 May I returned with my bro. Geo. to Wotton, who on the 28 of the same month was married at Aldbury to Mrs. Caldwell (an heiress of an ancient Leicestershire family).'-' 10 June I repaired with my Brother to the Tearme, to goe into our new lodgings, (that were formerly in Essex Court,) being a very hand- 1 It being now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given : ' The Vaulting Master, or the Art of Vaulting. Reduced to a method comprized under certain Rules. Illus- trated by examples, and now primarily set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Rich. Davis in Oxon, 1655.' A small oblong quarto, with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number of plates beautifully engraved (most probably by Glover) representing feats of activity on horse- b:ick that appear extraordinary ones at this time of day. ^ A daughter of Dan. Caldwell, Esq. by Mary, daughter of Geo. Duncomb, Esq. of Albury. She dieti 15 May i644, and he afterwards married the widow of Sir John Cotton. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 23 some apartment just over against the Hall-Court, but four pair of stairs high, w'ch gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect, but did not much contribute to the love of that impolish'd study, to w'ch (I suppose) m> Father had design'd me, when he paid 145/. to purchase our present lives, and assignments afterwards. London, and especially the Court, were at this period in frequent disorders, and greate insolencies were com'itted by the abus'd and too happy Citty : in panicular the Bish. of Canterbury's Palace at Lam- beth was assaulted by a rude rabble from Southwark ; my Lord Cham- berlayne imprison'd, and many scandalous libells and invectives scattered about the streetes, to the reproach of Government and the fermentation of our since distractions. 27 June. My Father's indisposition augmenting, by advice of the physitians he repaired to the Bathe. 7 July. My brother Geo. and I understanding the peril my Father was in, rod post from Guildford towards him, and found him extra- ordinary weake ; but on eighth Sept. I returned home with him in his litter. 15 Oct. I went to the Temple, it being Michaelmas; Tearme it began then. 30th. I saw his Ma'tie (coming from his Northern Expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all the marks of a happy peace, restor'd to the affections of his people, being conducted through Lond: with a most splendid cavalcade ; and on 3 Nov. following (a day never to be mention'd without a curse) to that long, ungratefull, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the beginning of all our sorrows for twenty yeares after, and the period of the most happy Monarch in the world : Quis talia fa7tdo / ' My Father's disorder appeared to be a dropsy, an indisposition the most unsuspected, being a person so exemplaryly temperate. On the 24 Dec. he died, retaining his senses and piety to the last, which he most tenderly expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the world, and the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evill to come. 1 64 1. 2 Jan. We at night followed the mourning hearse to the Church at Wotton, when, after a sermon and funeral oration, my Father was interred neere his formerly erected monument, and mingled with the ashes of our Mother, his deare wife. Thus we were bereft of both our parents in a period when we most of all stood in need of theire counsell and assistance, especially myselfe, of a raw, vaine, uncertain, and very unwary inclination ; but so it pleased God to make tryall of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest and most prodigious hazard that ever the youth of England saw. If I did not amidst all this peach my liberty, nor my vertue, with the rest who made shipwreck of 1 Notwithstanding this expression, it will afterwaids appear that Mr. Evelyn by no means approved of arbitraiy or tyraimica! niewurfta 2; TRIAL AND EXECUTION OF STRAFFORD— EMBARKS FOR HOLLAND. both, it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than the least discretion of myne owne, who now thought of nothing but th ? pursuite of vanity, and the confused imaginations of young men. 15. I went to London, to heare and see the famous tryall of the Earl of Strafford, who on 226. March before had been summon'd before both Houses of Parliament, and now appear'd in Westminster Hall, which was prepar'd with scaffolds for the Lords and Commons, who together with the King, Queene, Prince, and flower of the Noblesse, were spectators and auditors of the greatest malice and the greatest innocency that ever met before so illustrious an assembly. The E. of Arundell and Surrey, Earle Martial of England, was made High Steward. The sequel is too well known. 27. Came over from Holland the young Prince of Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love to his Ma'ties eldest daughter, the now Princess Royal. That evening was celebrated the pompous funerall of the Duke of Richmond, who was carried in effigie in an open chariot thro' London in great solemnity. 12 May. I beheld on Tower Hill the fatal stroke which severed the wisest head in England from the shoulders of the Earle of Strafford ; whose crime coming under the cognizance of no human law, a new one was made, not to be a precident, but his destruction ; to such exorbitancy were things arived. 28 June. I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day after sate to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oyle, which I presented to her, being her request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser than myselfe, that the medaill was reversing, and our calamities were but yet in their infancy. The 16 July, having procur'd a passe at the Costome-house, I went to Gravesend, accompany'd with one Mr. Caryll and our servants, with a purpose to take the first opportunity of a passage for Holland ; but the wind as yet not favourable. On the 19th we rode to Rochester and Chatham, to see the Soveraigne, a monstrous vessel so called, being for burthen, defense, and ornament, the richest that ever spread cloth before the wind,' and especially for this remarkable, that her building cost his Ma'tie the affections of his subjects, who quarrell'd with him for a trifle, refusing to contribute either to their own safety or to his glory. 21. We embarqued in a Dutch Fregat, bound for Flushing, con- voyed and accompanied by 5 other stoute vessells, whereof one was a man of war. The next day at noon we landed at Flushing, Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,' which was tl>en before 1 Accidentally burnt at Chatham in 1696. t Mr. Evelyn means, by this expression, to be in time to witness the siege, &c. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 25 Genep,' 'err. the Summer should be too far expir'd, we went this even- ing to Midelbrogh and Derveer. From Derveer we passed over many townes, houses, and ruines of demoHsh d suberbs, &c. which have for- merly ben swallow'd up by the sea, at what time no less than 8 of those Hands had been irrecoverably lost. The next day we ariv'd at Dort, the first towne of Holland, furnish'd with all German commodities, and especially Rhenish wilnes and tim- ber. It hath almost at the extremity a very spacious and venerable Church ; a stately Senat-house, wherein was holden that famous Synod against the Arminians in 1618, and in that hall hangeth a picture of the Passion^ an exceeding rare and much esteemed piece. From Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the Army, I tooke wagon to Roterdam, where we were hurried in lesse than an houre, though it be 10 miles distant, so furiously do these Foremen drive. I saw the publiq statue of the learn'd Erasmus, of brasse. They shew'd us his House, or rather the meane Cottage wherein he was borne, over which there were extant these lines in capital letters : iEDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS ARTIBUS INGENUIS, RELIGIONS, FIDE. The 26th I passed through Delft to the Hague ; in which journey I observed divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary huts on the brink of the water, and permitted to aske the charity of passengers, which is convey'd to them in a floating box that they cast out. Ariv'd at the Hague, I went first to the Queene of Bohemia's Court ; there were several of the Princesses her daughters, Prince Maurice newly come out of Germany, and my Ld. Finch not long before fled out of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a fasting-day with the Queene, for the unfortunate death of her husband; and the Presence Chamber had been hung with black velvet ever since his discease. The 28th I went by Leyden ; and on the 29th to Utricht. We then came to Ryncn, where the Queene of Bohemia hath a neate Palace or Country-house, built after the Italian manner as I remember. Then by Nimeguen. And, 2d of August, arriv'd at the Leagure, where was then the whole Army encamped about Genep, a strong castle on the river Wahale ; but being taken 4 or 5 days before, we had only a sight of the demolitions. The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons perform'd in Col. Goreing's Regiment (eldest sonne of the since Earle of Norwich) by Mr. Goffe his Chaplin (now turned Roman and Father Confessor to the Queen-Mother). The evening was spent in firing canon, and other expressions of military triumphs. i On the Waal— a place which having been greatly strengthened by the Cardinal Infantr D. Fernando in 1635, was at this time besieged by the French and Dutch. There is a full account of the siege in the great work of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience compiled materials for the History of the United Provinces during the greater part of the seventeenth century. One o*' his brothers was mortally wounded at this siege. 26 AT LEYDEN. ARRIVE AT ROTTERDAM ; THE FAIR THERE. Now, according to the compliment, I was received a Volunteere in the Company of Cap. Apsley, of whose Capt. Lieut. Honywood (Apsley being absent) I received many civihties. 3 Aug., at night, we rode about the lines of circumvallatfon, the Gen'll being then in the field. The next day I was accom'odated with a very spacious and com'odious tent for my lodging, as before I was with an horse, which I had at com'and, and an hutt, which during the excessive heates was a greate convenience, for the sun piercing the convass of the tent, it was, during the day, unsufferable, and at night not seldome infested with mists and fogg, which ascended from the river. 6 Aug. As the turne came about, I watched on a home worke neere our quarters, and trailed a pike, being the next morning reliev'd by a company of French. This was our continual duty till the Castle was re-fortified. The 7th I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friers, not far from our tents ; the Chapell and Refectory full of the goods of such poor people as at the approch of the Army had fled with them thither for sanctuary. On the day following I went to view all the trenches, approches, and mines, &c. of the Besiegers, and in particular the wheel-bridg, which engine his Excellency had made to run over the moate when they storm'd the castle. The walls and ramparts of earth, which a mine had broaken and crumbled, were of prodigious thicknesse. 8. I din'd in the Horse quarters with Sir Rob. Stone and his Lady, Sir Will. Stradling, and divers Cavaliers, where there was rery good cheere, but hot service for a young drinker as I then was. — Being pretty well satisfied with the confusion of Armies and Sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called, where their quarters and encampments are so admirably regular, and orders so exactly observed as few Cittys exceede it for all conveniences), I tooke my leave of the Leagure and Camerades. 12 Aug. I embarked on the Waal, in company with 3 grave Divines, who enntertayn'd us a greate part of our passage with a long dispute concerning the lawfulness of Church Musick. We touch'd at Bommell, that had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contribution land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish incursions. We passed Lovestine, famous for the escape of the learned Grotius, whose lady conveyed him out as a trunk of books. We lay at Gorcum. 13. We arrived late at Roterdam, where was their annual marte or faire, so furnished with pictures (especially Landskips and Drolleries, as they call those clounish representations) that I was amaz'd. Some I bought and sent into England. The reson of this store of pictures and their cheapness procecdes from their want of land to employ their THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 27 Stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find a common Farmer lay out two or ;^3,ooo in this com'odity. Their houses are full of them, and they vend them at their faires to very greate gaines. Here I first saw an Eliphant. I passed thro' Delft, and visited the Church, where was the monument of Prince William of Nassau, and his sonn and suc- cessor. Grave Maurice. The Senat-house hath a very stately Portico, supported with very choyse pillars of black marble, as I remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs a weighty vessell, not unlike a Butter Churne, which the adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one time is to weare for a time about the towne, her head coming out at the hole, and the rest hanging on her shoulders, as a pennance for her incontinency. Risewick is a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, for nothing more remarkable than the delicious walkes planted with lime trees, and the moderne paintings within. 19 Aug. We visited the Haff or Prince's Court at the Hague, with the adjoining gardens, which were full of ornament, close- walks, statues, marbles, grotts, fountains, and artificiall musiq,' &c. There is a stately Hall, not much inferior to ours of Westminster, hung round ivith colours and other trophys taken from the Spanyards ; and the sides below are furnish 'd with shopps.'^ Next day I returned to Delft, Rotterdam, the Hague, Leyden, Haerlem, and Amsterdam, where I went to a Synagogue of the Jews, being Saturday ; the cere- monies, ornaments, lamps, law, and scholes, afforded matter for my wonder and enquiry. The women were secluded from the men, being seated above in galleries, and having their heads muffled with linnen after a fantasticall and somewhat extraordinary fashion. They have a seperate burying-ground, full of sepulchres with Hebrew inscriptions, some of them very stately. In one, looking through a narrow crevice, I perceiv'd divers bookes lye about a corpse, for it seems when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of his books with him. With the help of a stick I raked out some of the leaves, written in Hebrew cha- racters, but much impaired.— We stepp'd in to see the Spin-house^ a kind of Bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are kept in dis- cipline and labour, but all neate. — We were shew'd an Hospital for poor travellers and pilgrimes, built by Queene Eliz. of England ; and another maintained by the Citty. The State or Senat-house, if the designe be perfected, will be a magnificent piece of architecture, especialy for the materialls and the carvings. In the Doole is paynted on a very large table Marie de Medice^ statue to the breast, supported by foure royal diademes, the work of one Vandall, who hath set his name thereon, i Sept. 1638. I went to heare an English sermon at the Presbyterian Congrega- 1 As at Enstone in Oxfordshire, see afterwards. 2 Westminster Hall used to be so in Term time and the sitting of Parliament, in the beginning ol tiie reigJi of George III. 28 THE INSTITUTIONS AT AND ADVANTAGES OF AMSTERDAM. tion, where they had chalked upon a slate the psalms that were to be sunc^, so that all the congregation might see it without the bidding of a Clerk. After such an age no minister was permitted to preach, but had his maintenance continu'd during life. I changed my lodgings out of a desire to converse amongst the Sec- taries that swarm'd in this Citty. It was at a Brownists house, where we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension with us my L. Keeper Finch, and one Sir Jo. Fotherbee. Here I also found an English Carmelite, with another Irish gentleman. I went to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter-house, for the educa- tion of decayed persons, orphans, and poore children, where they are taught several occupations. The girls are so well brought up to housewifry, that men of good worth who seeke that chiefly in a woman, frequently take their wifes from this seminary. We went to see the. Rasp-house, where the lusty knaves are compell'd to labour, and the rasping of Brasill and Logwood is very hard labour. Thence to the Dull-house, for madmen and fooles. But none did I so much admire as an Hospitall for their lame and decrepid souldiers, it being for state, order, and acom'odations, one of the worthiest things that the world can shew of that nature. Indeede it is most remarkable what pro- visions are here made and maintain'd for publiq and charitable purposes, and to protect the poore from misery, and the country from beggers. On Sunday morning about ii, after their sermons were ended, I went to see their Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon. I do not look on the structure of the Exchange to be comparable to that of Sir Tho. Gresham in our Citty of London, yet in one respect it exceeds, that ships of considerable burthen ride at the very key con- tiguous to it. It is by extraordinary industry that as well this Citty, as generaly thetownes of Holland, are so accommodated with graffs, cutts, sluces, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent then to see a whole navy of marchands and others environ'd with streetes and houses, every man's barke or vessell at anker before his very doore, and yet the streete so exactly straite, even, and uniforme, that nothing can be more pleasing, especialy being so frequently planted and shaded with the beautifull lime-trees, set in rows before every man's house. The next day we were entertained at a kind of tavern called the Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, in the upper roomes of the house were divers pretty waterworkes, rising io8 foote from the ground ; here were many quaint devices, fountaines, artificiall musiq noyses of beasts, and chirping of birds, &c. There was a lamp o] brasse, with eight socketts from the middle stem, like those we use in churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of water issuing as out of their vvickes, the whole branch hanging loose upon . . THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 29 the middst of a beame, without any other perceptible com'erce with any pipe, so that, unlesse it were by compression of the ayre with a syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be don. There was a chime of purselan dishes, which fitted to the clock- worke rung many changes and tunes. The Keisers Graft, or Emperors Streete, appears a citty in a wood through the goodly ranges of the stately lime-trees planted before each man's doore, and at the margent of that goodly aquas-duct, or river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind of white sun-bak'd brick) and of which the spacious streetes on either side are paved. This part of Amsterdam is gained upon the maine Sea, supported by piles at an im'ense charge. Prodigious it is to consider the multitude of vessels which continualy ride before this Citty, which is certainly the most busie concourse of mortalls now upon the whole earth, and the most addicted to com'erce. The Steeples are adorned after a particular manner for cost and invention ; the Chimes of Bells are so rarely manag'd, that being curious to know whether the motion were from any engine, I went up to that of St. Nicholas (as I take it), where I found one who play'd all sorts of compositions from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an organ, for so were the hammers fastened with wires to several keys, put into a frame 20 foote below the bells, upon which (by help of a wooden instrument, not much unlike a weavers shuttle, that guarded his hand), he struck on the keys and play'd to admiration : all this while through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the confusion was sogreate that it was impossible for the musician, or any that stood neare him, to heare any thing himselfe ; yet to those at a distance, and especialy in the streetes, the harmony and the time were the most exact and agreeable. Generaly there are in all the Churches in Holland, organs, lamps, monuments, &c. carefully preserved from the fury and impiety of popular reformers, whose zeale had foolishly transported them in other places rather to act like mad-men than religious. I went to Hundius's shop to buy some mapps, greatly pleased with the designes of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth of ihe Atlas's and other workes of that kind, is worthy seeing. At another ihop I furnish'd myselfe with some shells and Indian curiosities. Towards the end of August I returned to Haerlem by the river 10 miles in length, straighte as a line and of competent breadth for ships to saile by one other. They shew'd us a cottage where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married to her 25th husband, and being now a widdow was prohibited to marry in future, yet it could not be proved that she had ever made any of her husbands away, though the suspicion had brought her divers times to trouble. 30 LEYDEN UNIVERSITY. JOSEPH SCALIGER. HEINSIUS. This is a very delicate towne, and hath one of the fairest Churches, of the Gotiq design, I had scene. There hang in the steeple two silver bells said to have been brought from Damiate in Egypt by an Earle of Holland, in memory of whose successe they are rung out every evening. In the Nave hang the goodliest branches of brasse for tapers that I had scene, esteem'd of great value for the curiosity of tlie workmanship ; also a faire payre of organs, which I could not find they made use of in divine service, or so much as to assist them in singing psalms, but only for shewe, and to recreate the people before and after Cheir devotions, whilst the Burgomasters were walking and conferring about their affaires. — There hang near the West window two modells of shipps compleetely equipp'd, in memory of that invention of saws under their keeles with which they cutt the chayne before the Port of DamiatcC. Having visited this Church, the Fish-market, and made some enquiry about the Printing-house, the invention whereof is sayd to have been in this towne, I returned to Leyden. At Leyden I was carried up to the Castle, or Pyrgus, built on a very steepe artificial mount, cast up (as reported) by Hengist the Saxon on his returne out of England, as a place to retyre to in case of any sudden inundations. The Churches are many and very faire ; in one of them lyes interr'd that prodigy of learning the noble and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, without any extraordinary inscription, as having himself left so many monuments of his worth behind him, more lasting than marble, besides giving his Library to this University. 28. I went to see their Colledge and Schooles, which are nothing extraordinary, and was matriculated by the then Magnificus Professor^ who first in Latine demanded of me where my lodging in the towne was, my name, age, birth, and to what faculty I addicted myself; then recording my answers in a booke, he administered an oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders of the University whiles I stay'd, and then deliver'd me a ticket by virtue whereof I was made excise-free, for all which worthy privileges and the paines of writing, he accepted of a rix-doUar. Here was the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so long'd to see, as well as the Elzivirian printing-house and shop, renown'd for the polite- ness of the character and editions of what he has publish 'd through Europe. I visited their garden of simples, which was indeede well stor'd with exotic plants, if the Catalogue presented to me by the Gardiner be a faithfull register. I was much pleased with a sight of their Anatomy schole, theater, and repository adjoyning, which is well furnish'd with natural curiof^ities ; skeletons from the whale and eliphant to thefly and spider, which last is a very delicate piece of art, to sec how the bones (if I may so call them) of so tender an insect could be separated from the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 31 mucilaginous parts of minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other things, 1 was shew'd the knife newly taken out of a drunken Dutchman's gut's by an incision in his side, after it hadshpped from his fingers into his stomach. The picture of the chyrurgeon and his patient, both hving, were there. There is without the Towne a faire Maill curiously planted. I was shew'd the statue, cut in stone, of the happy Monke whom they report to have been the first inventor of Typography, set over the doore ; but this is much controverted by others, who strive for the glory of it, besides John Guttenburg. I was brought acquainted with a Burgundian Jew who had married an apostate Kentish woman. 1 asked him divers questions ; he told me, amongst other things, that the world should never end, that our soules transmigrated, and that even those of the most holy persons did pennance in the bodys of bruits after death, and so he interpreted the banishment and salvage life of Nebucodnezer ; that all the Jewcs should rise again, and be lead to Jerusalem ; that the Romans only were the occasion of our Saviour's death, whom he affirm'd (as the Turks do) to be a greate Prophet, but not the Messias ; he shewed me severall bookes of their devotion, which he had translated into EngHsh for the instruction of his wife ; he told me that when the Messias came, all the ships, barkes, and vessells of Holland should, by thepowere of certaine strange whirle-winds be loosed from their ankers and transported in a moment to all the desolat ports and havens throughout the world where ever the dispersion was, to convey their breathren and tribes to the holy Citty ; with other such like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow. I Sept. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and two days after back to the Hague, to bespeake a suite of armore which I caused to be made to fit me, with the harnesse of a horseman. I went to see one of the Prince's Palaces, called The Hoff Van Hounslers Dyck, which is a very magnificent cloyster'd and quadrangular building. The gallery is prettily paynted with severall Huntings, and at one end a Gordian knot, with several rusticall instruments so artificially represented as to deceive an accurate eye, to distinguish it from actual relievo. The ceiling of the staire-case is painted with the Rape of Ganymede^ and other pen- dent figures, the worke of F. Covenberg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which I afterwards parted with to my brother George of Wotton, where it now hangs still there. To this Palace joynes a faire garden and parke, curiously planted with limes. 8 Sept. to Rotterdam thro' Delfts-haven and Seedam, where was at that time Coll. Goring's winter-quarters. This towne has heretofore been much talk'd of for witches. 10. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at the reception of the Queen Mother, Maria de Medices, Dowager of France, Widdow of 3a AT DORT, BOIS LE DUKE, HYSDUNE, AND ROTTERDAM. Henry the Create, and Mother to the French King Lewis xiij and the Queen a of England, whence she newly arived, toss'd to and fro by the various fortune of her hfe. From this Citty she design'd for Collin [Cologne] conducted by the Earle of Arundell and the Here Van Bre dered. At this interview I saw the Princesse of Orange, and the Lad> her daughter, afterwards married to the House of Brandenbourg, There was little remarkable in this reception befitting the greatnesse of her person, but an universal discontent, which accompany'd that unlucky woman wherever she went. 12 Sept. I went towards Bois le Duke. We arrived on the i6th, when the New Citidall was advancing with innumerable hands, and incomparable inventions for draining off the waters out of the fenns about it, being by bucketts, mills, cocklea's, pumps, and the hke. Here were now i6 companies and 9 tropes of horse. They were cutting a new river to passe from the Towne to a Castle not far from it. Here we split our skiff, falling fowle on another through negligence of the master, who was faine to run on ground, to our no little hazard. A Soldier convey'd us to the Governor, where our names were taken, and our persons examin'd very strictly. I was permitted to walk the round and view the workes, and to visite a Convent of religious women of the order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were permitted to enjoy their monastery and maintenance undisturbed at the surrender of the towne 12 years since. We had a collation, and very civil entertaynment, They had a neate Chapell, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleve, their founder's lies inhum'd under a plate of brasse. Within the Cloyster is a garden, and in the middle of it an overgrowne lime-tree, out of whose stem, neere the roote, issue 5 upright and exceeding tall suckers or boles, the like whereof for evenesse and heighth I had not observ'd. The cheife Church is curiously carved within and without, with a paire of organs, and a most magnificent font, all of copper. 18. I went to that most impregnable towne and fort of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one Coll: Crombe, the Lieut. Governor, who would needes make me accept the honor of being Capt. of the Watch, and to give the word this night. We departed towards Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelme Digby travelling towards Colin met us. 19. We arrived at Dort, passing by the Decoys, where they catch innumerable quantities of fowle. 22, I went to Roterdam to receive a passe which I expected from the Cardinal Infante, then Governor for his brother the K. of Spaine, in Flanders, being desirous to see that country in my return for Eng- land, whither I was now shaping my course ; and within 2 days after, having obtained another from the Pr. of Orange, on 24 Sept. 1 departed through Dort, but met with very bad tempestuous weather, being several times driven back, and oblig'd to lie at anker off Keele, other vessells lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and 26tb THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 33 we made other essays, but were driven back to the harbor, where lay 60 vessels waiting to sail. But on the 27th we, impatient of the tyme and inhospitablenesse of the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind, and a terrible sea, in greate jeopardy, for we had much ado to keepe ourselves above water, the billows breaking despe- rately on our vessel ; we were driven into Williamstadt, a place gar- rison'd by the English, where the Governor had a faire house. The workes and especially the Countercamp are curiously hedg'd with quick, and are planted with a stately row of limes on the Rampart. The Church is of a round structure with a Cupola. 28. Failing of an appointement, I was constrained to returne to Dort for a bill of exchange, but it was ist October ere I could get back ; at Keele I numbered 141 vessells who durst not yet venture out ; but animated by the master of a stout bark, after a small encounter of weather, we ariv'd by 4 that evening at Stene-bergen. In the passage we sailed over a sea call'd the Plaet, which is an exceeding dangerous water, by reason of 2 contrary tydes which meet there very impetuously. Here, because of the many sheiies, we were forc'd to tyde it along the Channell ; but, ere we could gainc the place, the ebb was so far spent, that we were compell'd to foote it at least a league thro' a most pelting shower of raine. 2 Oct. I went in a cart (for it was no better, and no other ac- comodation could be procured) of 2 wheeles and one horse to Bergen- op-Zome, meeting divers partys of his Highness' Army retiring towards their winter quarters. The Fort was heretofore built by the English. The next morning I embarked for Lillo, having refused a convoy of horse which was aftbrded me. The tyde being against us, we landed short of the Fort, on the beach, where we marched half leg deep in mud ere we could gaine the dyke, which being 5 or 6 miles from Lillo, we were forced to walke on foote very wett and discompos'd, and then entering a boat we pass'd the Ferry, and came to the Castle. Being taken before the Governor, he demanded my passe, to which he set his hand, and asked 2 rix-dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very unhandsome in a Soldier of his quality. I told him that I had alread purchased my passe of the Commissaries at Roterdam ; at which, in a greate fury snatching the paper out of my hand, he flung it scornfully under a table, and bad me try whether I could get to Antwerp without his permission ; but when I drew out the money, he return'd it as scur- vily again, bidding me pay 14 Dutch shill. to the Cantone, or Searcher, for my contempt, which I was also glad to do with a greate deale of laution and danger, concealing my Spanish passe, it being a matter of imprisonment, for that the States were therein treated by the names of Rebells. Besides all these exactions 1 gave the Commissary 6 shil., to the soldiers something, and 'ere perfectly cleare ot this frontiere 30 3 34 THE CITY OF ANTWERP ; THE CHURCHES ; JESUIT COLLEGE. Stivers to the man of war who lay blocking up the river 'twixt Lillo and the opposite sconce called Lifkinshoeck. 4 Oct. We passed several Spanish Forts, out of one of which came some Dons, to whom I shewed my Spanish passe, which was signed by one, and I gave him 6 guilders. We pass'd by another man of war, to which we lower'd our topsails ; and at length ariv'd at Antwerp. The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. I lost little tyme, but with the conduct of one Mr. Lewkner visited divers Churches, Colledges, Monasteries, &c. The Church of the Jesuits is most sumptuous and magnificent, a glorious fabriq without, and within wholly incrusted with marble, inlay 'd and polish'd into divers repre- sentations of histories, landskips, flowers, &c. On the high altar is plac'd the Statue of the B. Virgin and our Saviour in white marble. The quire is a glorious piece ; the pulpit is supported by foure angels, and adorn'd with other carvings. There are rare pictures by Rubens, now lately deceased, and divers votive tables and rehques. The tower :)f Notre Dame d'Anvers, which is the Cathedrall Church, is a very venerable fabriq, built after the Gotick manner ; the Tower is of an excessive heighth. I assended it to take a better view of the country. The sun shon exceeding hot, and darted the rayes without any inter- mission, affording so bright a reflection to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water about it, that I was much con- firmed in my opinion of the moon's being of some such substance as this earthy globe consists of ; perceiving all the subjacent countrv, at so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as I could hardly look against, save where the river, and other large water within our view, appeared of a more dark and uniforme colour, resembling those spotts in the moone supposed to be seas there, according to our new philosophy, and viewed by optical glasses. We went to see Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have been founded by one who, upon divers greate wagers, went to and frobetweene that Citt) and Antwerp on foote, by which he procur'd greate sums of mony, which he bestow'd in this pious structure, iience to St. Mary's Chapell, where I had some conference with two English Jesuites, Con- fessors to Coll. Gage his regiment. These Fathers conducted us to the Cloyster of religious women, where we heard a Dutch sermon at a Quarantia, or exposure of the Sacrament as they tearme it. The Senat- house of this Citty is a very spacious and magnificent building. 5 Oct. I vissited the Jesuits schole, which for the fame of their method & institution I had greately desir'd to see. They were divided into 4 classes with a several inscription over each ; as, i, Ad 7?iajorem Dei gloriamj over the 2d, Princeps diligentice j the 3d, Iinperator Byzantioruinj over the 4th and upmost, Imperator Romanorum. Under these the scholars and pupils had their places or formes, with titles and priority according to their proficiency. Their dormitory and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN< 35 lodgings above were exceeding neate. They have prisons for the offenders and lesse diligent ; a court to recreate themselves in, wherein is an aviary of birds, eagles, foxes, monkeys, &c., to divert the boys at their times of remission. To the house joyn music and mathematical scholes, and lastly a pretty chapell. The great streete is built after a mere Italian mode, and is very faire and noble, cleane and sweete. The Oesters house ^ belonging to the East India Company, is a most beautifull palace, adorn'd with more than 300 windows. From hence walking into the Gun-garden, I was suffered to see as much of the Citadell as is easily permitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern fortification, accommodated with logiaments for the souldiers and magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and platforms, are stupendious. Returning by the shop of Plantine, I bought some bookes for the name- sake onely of that famous printer. But there was nothing about this Citty which more ravished me than those delicious shades and walkes of stately trees, which render the fortified workes of the towne one of the sweetest places in Europ ; nor did I ever observe a more quiet, cleane, elegantly built, and civil place, then this magnificent and famous Citty of Antwerp. In the evening I was invited to Signor Duert's, a Portuguese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, whose palace I found to be furnish'd like a prince's ; his three daughters entertain'd us with rare musiq, vocal & instru- mental, which was finish'd with a handsome collation. I tooke leave of the Ladys, and of sweete Antwerp, as late as it was, embarquing for Bruxelles on the Scheld, in a vessel which delivered us to a second boate (in another river) drawn or tovv'd by horses. In this passage we frequently chang'd our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting oui course. Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels, and floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as few houses on land enjoy'd better accommodation, stor'd with all sorts of uten sills, neate chambers, a pretty parlour, and kept so sweete that nothing could be more refreshing. The rivers on which they are drawne are very cleare & still waters, and passe through a most pleasant country on both the bankes. We had in our boate a very good ordnary, and excellent company. The cutt is straight as a line for 2C English miles. What I much admir'd was, neere the midway, another artificial river, which intersects this at right angles, but on an eminence of ground, and is carr}'ed in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other as that the waters neither mingle nor hinder one another's passage. At Villefrow all the passengers went on shore to wash at a fountaine issuing out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the margin of this long tract are aboundance of Shrines and Images, defended from the injuries of the weather by niches of stone in which they are placed. 7 Oct. We arriv'd at Bruxelles at 9 in the morning. The State 36 AT BRUXELLES ; ITS COURTS, HALLS, AND PARKS. house, neere the market-place, is for the carving in freestone a most laborious and finished piece, well worthy observation. The flesh- shambles are also built of stone. I was pleased with certain small engines by which a girl or boy was able to draw up, or let downe, greate bridges, which in divers parts of this Citty crossed the channell, for the benefit of passengers. The walls of this Town are very intyre, and full of towers at competent distances. The Cathedrall is on a very high and exceeding steepe ascent, to which we mounted by faire stepps of stone. Hence I walked to a Convent of English Nunns, with whom I sate discoursing most part of the afternoone. 8 Oct. being the morning I came away, I went to see the Prince's Court, which is an ancient, confus'd building, not much unlike the Hoft't at the Hague ; there is here likewise a very large Hall, where they vend all sorts of wares. Through this we passed by the Chapell, which is indeed rarely arch'd, and in the middle of it was the hearse or catafalco of the late Arch-Dutchesse, the wise & pious Clara Eugenia. Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings, tapistry'd with incom- parable arras, and adorn'd with many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breughel, Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late actions in the Netherlands. By an accident we could not see the Library. There is a faire ter- race which looks to the Vine-yard, in which, on pedestalls, are fix'd the statues of all the Spanish Kings of the House of Austria. The oppo- site walls are paynted by Rubens, being an history of the late tumults m Belgia ; in the last piece the Arch-Dutchesse shutts a greate payre of gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, arm'd, and in a menacing posture. On another, the Infanta is seen taking leave of Don PhiHp. From hence we walked into the Parke, which for being intirely within the walls of the Citty is particularly remaikable ; nor is it less pleasant than if in the most solitary recesses, so naturally is it furnish'd with whatever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country-like. Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water, artificial cascades, rocks, grotts, one whereof is composed of the extravagant rootes of trees cunningly built and hung together. In this Parke are both fallow and red deare. From hence we were led into the Manege, and out of that into a most sweete and delicious garden, where was another grott, of more neate and costly materials, full of noble statues, and entertaining us with artificial musiq ; but the hedge of water, in forme of lattice-worke, which the fontanier caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, exceedingly pleased and surpris'd me, for thus with a pervious wall, or rather a palisad hedge, of water, was the whole parterre environ'd. There is likewise a faire Aviary, and in the court next it are kept divers sorts of animals, rare & exotic fowle, as eagles, cranes, storks, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 37 bustards, pheasants of several kinds, a duck having 4 wings, &c. In another division of the same close, are rabbits of an almost perfect yellow colour. There was no Court now in the Palace, the Infante Cardinal, who was the Governor of Flanders, being dead but newly^ and every one in deepe mourning. At near 1 1 o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's Agent Sir Hen. De Vic, who very courteously receiv'd me and accommodated me with a coach & six horses, which carried me from Bruxelles to Gant, where it was to meete my Lord of Arundel, Earle Marshal of England, who had requested me when I was at Antwerp to send it for him, if I went not thither myselfe. Thus taking leave of Bruxelles and a sad Court, yet full of gallant persons (for in this small Cittye the acquaintance being universal, Ladys and Gentlemen, I perceiv'd,had greate diversons and frequent meetings), I hasted towards Gant. On the way I met with divers little wagons prettily contrived and full of pedling merchandises, drawne by mastive- dogs, harnessed compleately like so many coach-horses, in some 4, in others 6, as in Bruxelles itselfe I had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I remember, 4 dogs draw 5 lusty children in a charriot : the master commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares about the streetes. After passing through Ouse, by 6 in the evening I arriv'd at Ghent. This is a Citty of so great a circumference that it is reported to be 7 leagues round, but there is not half of it now built, much remaining in fields and pastures, even within the wall, which has strong gates towards the West, and two faire churches. Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and Cha. V. were borne ; the statue of the latter stands in the Market-place, on an high pillar, with his sword drawn, to which (I was told) the Magistrates and Bergers were wont to repaire on a certaine day every yeare with roaps about their necks, in toaken of submission & pennance for an old Rebellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed to a blew ribbon. Here is the Basilisco, or great Gun, so much talked of. The Ley and the Scheldt meeting in this vast City divide it into 26 Islands, which are united by many bridges, somewhat resembling Venice. This night I supp'd with the Abbot of Andoyne, a pleasant and courteous priest. 8 Oct. I passed by boate to Bruges, taking in at a redoutt a convoy of 14 musketeers, because the other side of the river being Contribution land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquiss Spinola, and is in my judgment a wonderfull piece of labour, and is a worthy publiq worke, being in some places forced thro' the maine rock, to an incredible depth, for 30 miles. At the end of each mile is built a small redout, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, 38 AT BRUGES, OSTEND, DUNKIRK, DOVER, AND LONDON. from whence we received many vollies of shot in compliment to my Lord Marshall^ who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At 5 that evening we were met by the Magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convoy my Lord to his lodgings, where he was entertaynd that night at their cost. The morning after we went to see the State-house and adjoyning Aquaeduct, the Church, and Market-place, where we saw cheeses and butter piled up in heapes ; also the Fortifications and Grafts, which are extreamly large. The 9th we arived at Ostend by a straighte and artificial river. Here, with leave of the Captaine of the Watch, I was carried to survey the river and harbour, with fortifications on one side thereof : the East and South are mud & earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately stood a memorable siege 3 years, 3 moneths, 3 weeks, & 3 dayes. I went to see the Church of St. Peter, and the Cloysters of the Franciscans. 10 Oct. I went by wagon, accompany'd with a jovial Commissary, to Dynkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On our arrival we first viewed the Court of Guards, the Workes, the To wne- house, and the New Church ; the latter is very beautifull within ; and another, wherein they shew'd us an excellent piece of otir Saviour^s bearing the Crosse. The Harbour in two channels coming up to the Towne was choaked with a multitude of prizes. From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles towards the packet-boat e, being a pretty fregat of 6 guns, which embarked us for England about 3 in the afternoone. At our going off, the Fort against which our pinnace ankered saluted my Lord Marshall with 12 greate guns, which we answered with 3. Not having the wind favourable, we ankered that night before Calais. About midnight we weighed ; and at 4 in the morning, tho' not far from Dover, we could not make the Peere till 4 in the afternoon, the wind proving contrary and driving us Westward ; but at last we got on shore, Oct. the 12th. From Dover I that night rod post to Canterbery. Here I visited the Cathedrall, then in great splendour, those famous windows being intire, since demolish'd by the Phanatiqs. The next morning by Sittinbourn I came to Rochester, and thence to Graves-end, where a Light-horse-man (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refresh'd ourselves at the Colledge (for by reason of the contagion then in London we baulked the Inns), we came to London, landing at Arundel-stayres : here I took leave of his Lordship, and retyred to my lodgings in the Middle Temple, being about 2 in the morning. 16 Oct. I went to see my brother at Wotton. On the 31st of that moneth (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the 23rd) I was one and twenty yeares of age. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 39 7 Nov. I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. 23 Nov. I returned to London ; and on the 25th saw his Majesty ride thro' the Citty after his coming out of Scotland, and a Peace pro- claym'd, with greate acclamations and joy of the giddy people. 15 Dec. I was elected one of the Comptrolers of the Middle Temple-revellers, as the fashion of the young Students and Gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept this yeare with greate solemnity ; but being desirous to passe it in the Country, I got leave to resigne my stafife of office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton. 10 Jan. 1642. I gave a visite to my cousin Hatton of Ditton. 19. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th March, studying a little, but dancing and fooling more. 3 Oct. I went to Chichester, and hence the next day to see the Seige of Portsmouth, for now was that bloody difference betvveene the King and Parliament broken out, which ended in the fatal tragedy so many yeares after. It was on the day of its being render'd to Sir William Waller, which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave of Coll. Goring the Governor, now embarqueing for France. From thence I went to South'ton and Winchester, where I vissited the Castle, Schole, Church, and King Arthur's Round Table, but especialy the Church, and its Saxon Kings Monuments, which I esteemed a worthy antiquity. 3 Oct. was fought that signal Battaile at Edgehill. 1 2th Nov. was the Battle of Braineford surprisingly fought, and to the greate consternation of the Citty had his Majesty (as twas believed he would,) persu'd his advantage. I came in with my horse and armes just at the retreate, but was not permitted to stay longer than the 15th by reason of the Army's marching to Glocester, which would have left both me and my brothers expos'd to ruine, without any advantage to his Majesty. 7 Dec. I went from Wotton to London to see the so much celebrated line of communication, and on the loth returned to V/otton. no body knowing of my having been in his Majs. Army. 1643. 10 March. I went to Hartingfordberry, to visite my cousin Keightly. II. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at Hatfield, where, the most considerable rarity besides the house (inferior to few then m England for its architecture) was the garden and vineyard rarely well watered and planted. They also shew'd us the picture of Secretary Cecil in mosaiq worke, very well don by some Italian hand, I must not forget what amazed us in the night before, viz. a shining clowd in the ayre, in shape resembling a sword, the point reaching to Ihe North : it was as bright as the moone, the rest of the sky being very serene. It began about 11 at night, and vanish'd not till about one, being seen by all the South of England. 40 IN LONDON— OBTAIN LICENCE TO TRAVEL— AT CALAIS, I made many journies to and from London. 15 April. I went to Hatfield, and neere the Town of Hertford I went to see Sir J. Harris [Harrison] his house new built.' Returning to London, I called to see his Majesty's house and gardens at Theo* baids, since demolish'd by the rebels. 2nd May. I went to London, where I saw the furious and zelous people demolish that stately Crosse in Cheapside. On the 4th I re- turn'd, with no little regrett for the confusion that threaten'd us. Resolving to possess myselfe in some quiet if it might be, in a time of so great jealosy, 1 built by my Brother's permission a study, made a fishpond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements, at Wotton, which gave the first occasion of improving them to those water-works and gardens which afterwards succeeded them. 12 July. I sent my black manage horse and furniture with a friend to his Majestic then at Oxford. 23. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myselfe ; but finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhandsome things, and which had been a greate cause of my perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton & London, Oct. 2nd I obtained a lycence of his Majestie, dated at Oxford and sign'd by the King, to travell againe. 6 Nov. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir Ralph Whitfield's, at Blechinglee, (whither both my Brothers had conducted me), I ariv'd at London on the 7th, and 2 days after took boate at the Tower-wharfe, which carry'd me as far as Sittingburne, tho'not without danger, I being onely in a payre of oares, expos'd to a hideous storme ; but it pleas'd God we got in before the perill was considerable. From thence I went by post to Dover, accompany'd with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very deare friend of mine. Having a reasonable good passage, though the weather was snowy and untoward enough, we came before Calais, where, as we went on shore, mistaking the tyde, our shallop struck on the sands, with no little danger, but at length we got off. Calais is well fortified, in the old Castle and new Citadell, reguarding the Sea. The haven consists of a long banke of sand, lying opposite to it. The Market-place and the Church are remarkable things, besides the reliques of our former dominion there. I remember there was engraven in stone on the front of an ancient dwelling which was shew'd us, these words in English, God save the King, with the name of the architect and date. The walls of the towne are substantial, but the situation towards the land is not pleasant, by reason of the marishes and low grounds about it. 12 Nov. After diner we tooke horse with the Messagere, hoping to 1 Now called Balls Park, belonging to Lord John Townshend, who inherits it from hi? grandmother, Lady Viscountess Townshend, who was a Miss Harrison, and wife to Charles Viscount Townshend, Secretary of State to George IT THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 41 have ariv^d at Bollogne that night ; but there fell so great a snow, accompanied with hayle, rain, and suddaine darknesse, that we had much adoe to gain the next village ; and in this passage being to crosse a vally by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the raine that had fallen making it an impetuous streame for neere a quarter ot a mile, my horse slipping had almost been the occasion of my perish- ing. We none of us went to bed, for the souldiers in those parts leaving little in the villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry l)y morning, between the fire and the fresh straw. The next day early v/e ariv*d at Bollogne. This is a double towne, one part on a high Rock, or downes, the other, caird the Lower Towne, is yet with a greate declivity towards the Sea. There is a strong Castle on a notable eminence. Under the towne runs the river, v/hich is yet but an inconsiderable brooke. Hen. 8th. in the siege of this place is said to have used those greate leatherne guns which I have since seen in the Tower of London, inscribed Non Alarte opus est, cut non deficit Mercurius, if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert in his History doubts. The next morning, in some danger of party's [Spanish] surprising us, we came to Monstreuil, built on the sum'it of a most conspicuous hill, environ'd with faire and ample meadows, but all the suburbs had been from time to time ruin'd, and were now lately burnt by the Spa- nish inroads. This towne is fortified with 2 very deep dry ditches ; the walls about the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of masonry. The Church is more glorious without then within. The Market- place is large, but the inhabitants are miserably poore. The next day we came to Abbeville, having pass'd all this way in continual expecta- tion of the volunteeres, as they call them. This Towne affords a good aspect towards the hill from whence we descended, nor does it deceive us, for it is handsomely built, and has many pleasant and useful streames passing through it, the maine river being the Some, which discharges itselfe into the Sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the towne. The principal Church is a very handsome piece of Gothiq architecture, and the ports and ramparts planted lor ornament. They brought us choice of guns and pistoUs to sell at reasonable rates, and neately made, being here a merchandize of greate account, the towne abounding in gun-smiths. Hence we advanced to Beauvais, a town of good noate, and having the first vineyards we had seen. The next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to Paris, having taken our repast at St. Denys, 2 leagues from that greate Citty. St. Denys is considerable only for its stately Cathe- dral, and the dormitory of the French Kings, there inhum'd as ours at Westminster Abbey. The treasury is esteemed one of the richest in Europe. The Church was built by King Dagobert, but since much enlarged, being now 390 foote long, 100 in bredth and 80 in height, 42 THE TREASURES OF THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. DENYS. without comprehending the cover ; it has a very high shaft of stone, and the gates are of brasse. In the choir are the sepulchres ol the most ancient Kings ; without it are many more ; amongst the rest that of Bertrand du GuescHn, Constable oi France ; in the Chapell of Charles V. all his posterity, and neere him the magnificent sepulchre of Francis I. with his children, warres, victories, and triumphs, engraven in marble. Above, are bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state of black velvet, the late Lewis xiij. Every one of the lo chapels, or oratories, had some Saints in them ; amongst the rests, one of the Holy Inno- cents. The treasury is in the sacristy above, in which are crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with precious stones, one of gold 3 feet high. Amongst the still more valuable reliques are a naile from our Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a crucifix of the true wood of the Crosse, carved by Pope Clement III. inchas'd in a crystal covered with gold ; a box in which is some of the Virgin's haire ; some of the linnen in which our blessed Saviour was wrapped at his nativity ; in a huge reliquary modelled like a church, some of our Saviour's blood, hair, cloathes, linnen with which he wiped the Apostles feet ; with many other equally authentic reliques. Amongst the treasures is the Crowne of Charlemagne, his 7 foote high scepter and hand of justice, his sword, belt, and spurrs of gold ; the Crowne of St. Lewis, cover'd with precious stones, amongst which is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestimable value, weighing 300 carrats, (under which is set one of the thorns of our blessed Saviour's crowne,) his sword, seal, and hand of justice. The 2 crownes of Hen. IV. his sceptre, hand of justice, and spurrs. The 2 crowns of his son Lewis. In the cloak royal of Anne of Bretagne is a very greate and rare rubie. Divers bookes cover'd with solid plates of gold and studded with precious stones. Two vasas of berill, 2 of achate, whereof one is esteemed for its bignesse, colour, and carving imboss'd, the best now to be seene ; by a special favour I was permitted to take the measure & dimensions of it ; the story is a Bachanalia. It is really antique. There is a large gundola of chrysolite, a huge urn of porphyry, another of chalcedone, a vasa of onyx, the largest I had ever seen of that stone; 2 of chrystal ; a morsel of one of the water-pots in which our Saviour did his first miracle ; the effigies of the Queen of Saba, of Julius, Augustus, Marc Antony, Cleopatra, and others, upon saphyrs, topazes, agates, and cornelians ; that of the Queen of Saba has a Morish face ; those of Julius and Nero on achates rarely colour'd and cut. A cup in which Solomon was us'd to drinke. Apollo on a great amethyst. There lay in a window a miroir of a kind of stone said to have belonged to the poet Virgil. Charlemayne's chessemen, full of Arabic charac- ters. In the presse next the doore, the brasse lanthorn full of crystals, said to have conducted Judas and his company to apprehend our B. S. A faire unicorne's horn, sent by a K. of Persia, about 7 foote long. In THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 43 another presse (over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans Amazon with her sword), the effigies of the late French Kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their robes, with a world of other rarities. Having rewarded our courteous fryer, we tooke horse for Paris, where we ariv'd about five in the afternoone. In the way were faire crosses of stone carv'd with fleurs de lys at every furlong^s end, where they affirme St. Denys rested and layd down his head after martyrdom, carrying it from the place where this monastery is builded. We lay at the Ville de Venice ; I went to visite Sir Richard Browne, his Majesties Resident with the French King. 5 Dec. The Earl of Norwich, formerly Geo. Lord Goring, came as Ambassador Extraordinary ; I went to meet him in a coach and six horses, at the palace of Mons. de Bassompiere, where I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and rare prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the ceremonies, and a greate cavalcade of men of quality, to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23d he had audience of the French King and the Queen Regent his mother, in the golden chamber of presence. From thence I conducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denys, and so tooke my leave. 24. I went to see the Isle encompassed by the Seine & the Oyse. The City is divided into 3 parts, whereof the Towne is greatest. The City lyes between it and the University, in form of an island. Over the Seine is a stately bridge called Pont Neuf, begun by Hen. 3. in 1578, finished by Hen. 4. his successor. It is all of hewn free stone found under the streets, but more plentifully at Mont-Martyre, and consists of 12 arches, in the midst of which ends the poynt of an island, on which are built handsome artificers houses. There is one large pas- sage for coaches, and 2 for foot passengers 3 or 4 feet higher, and of convenient breadth for 8 or lo to go abreast. On the middle of this stately bridge on one side stands that famous statue of Hen. the Great on horseback, exceeding the natural proportion by much ; and on the 4 faces of a stately pedestal, (which is composed of various sorts of polish'd marble and rich mouldings,) inscriptions of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in brasse. The statue and horse are of copper, the worke of the greate John di Bologna, and sent from Florence by Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the 2d, unkle & cousin to Mary di Medices, the wife of this K. Henry. It is inclos'd with a strong and beautifull grate of yron, about which there are allways mountebancs shewing their feates to idle passengers. From hence is a rare prospect towards the Louver and suburbs of St. Germaines, the Isle of du Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foote of this bridge is a water house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the story of our Saviour and the Woman of Samaria powring water out of a bucket. Above is a very rare dyal of severall motions, with a chime, &c. The water is convey'd by huge wheeles, pumps, and other engines, from 44 THE CATHEDRAL, NOTRE DAME DE PARIS. the river beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude oi coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there are, as that of Notre Dame ; and the Pont au Change, &c. fairly built, with houses of stone which are laid over this river: only the Pont St. Anne, landing the suburbs of St. Germain e at the Thuilleries, is built of wood, having likewise a water-house in the middst of it, and a statue of Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but much inferior to the Samaritane. The University lyes S.W. on higher ground, contiguous to, but the lesser part of Paris. They reckon no less than 65 Colleges, but they in nothing approach ours at Oxford for state and order. The book- sellers dwell within the University. The Scholes (of which more hereafter) are very regular. The suburbs are those of St. Denys, Honore, St. Marcel, Jaques, St. Michel, St. Victoire, and St. Germaines, which last is the largest, and where the nobility and persons of the best quality are seated ; and truely Paris, comprehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of the most gallant Cittyes in the world ; large in circuit, of a round forme, very populous, but situated in a botome, environ'd with gentle declivities, rendering some places very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphure were mingled with the mud ; yet it is paved with a kind of free-stone, of neere a foote square, which renders it more easy to walk on than our pebles in London. On Christmas eve I went to see the Cathedrall of Notre Dame, erected by Phihp Augustus, but begun by K. Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gotiq fabriq, supported by 120 pillars, which make 2 ailes in the Church round about the quire, without comprehend- ing the Chapells, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 high. The Quire is enclos'd with stone worke graven with the sacred history, and containes 45 Chapells cancell'd with iron. At the front of the chiefe entrance are statues in rehevo of the Kings, 28 in number, from Childe- bert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are two high square Towers, and another of a smaller size, bearing a Spire in the middle, where the body of the Church formes a Crosse. The greate Tow'r is ascended by 389 steps, having 12 gallerys from one to the other. They greatly reverence the Crucifix over the skreene of the Quire, with an image of the B. Virgin. There are some good modem paintings hang- ing on the pillars : the most conspicuous statue is the huge Colosse of St. Christopher, with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, & rocks, about this gygantiq piece, being of one stone, and more remark- able for its bulke than any other perfection. This is the prime Church of France for dignity, having Arch-deacons, Vicars, Canons, Priests, and Chaplaines in good store, to the number of 127. It is also the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 45 Palace of the Archbishop. The young King (Louis XIV.) was there with a greate and martial guard, who enter'd the Nave of the Church with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was entertain'd with the church musiq. 1644. 4 January. I pass'd this day with one Mr. Jo. Wall, an Irish gentleman, who had been a Frier in Spaine, and afterwards a Reader in St. Isodors Chayre at Rome, but was, I know not how, getting away, and pretending to be a Souldier of fortune, an absolute Cavaliere, having as he told us been Capt. of Horse in Germany. It is certaine he was an excellent disputant, and so strangely given to it that nothing could passe him. He would needes perswade me to goe with him this morning to the Jesuites Colledge, to witness his polemical talent. We found the Fathers in their Church at the Rue St. Anthoine, where one of them shew'd us that noble fabriq, which for its cupola, pavings, in- crustations of marble, the pulpit, altars (especially the high altar), organ, lavatoritmi^ &c. but, above all, the richly carv'd and incom- parable front, I esteeme to be one of the most perfect pieces of archi- tecture in Europ, emulating even some of the greatest now at Rorne itself; but this not being what our Frier sought, he led us into the ad- joyning Convent, where having shew'd us the Library, they began a very hot dispute on some poynts of Divinity, which our Cavalier con- tested onely to shew his pride, and to that indiscreete height that the Jesuits would hardly bring us to our coach, they being put beside all patience. The next day we went into the University, and into the College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadrangle, having a very noble Library. Thence to the Sorbonne, an antient fabriq built by one Robert de Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restauration which the late Cardinal de Richlieu has made to it renders it one of the most excellent moderne buildings ; the sumptuous Church, of admirable architecture, is far superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole designe of the Church is very magnificent. We went into some of the Scholes, and in that of Divinity we found a grave Doctor in his chaire, with a multitude of auditors, who all write as he dictates ; and this they call a Course. After we had sate a little, our Cavalier started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the Doctor ; at which, and especialy as he was clad in the Spanish habit, which in Paris is the greatest bugbare imaginable, the Scholars & Doctor fell into such a fit of laughter that nobody could be heard speake for a while ; but silence being obtain'd, he began to speake Latine, and make his apology in so good a style, that their derision was turn'd to admiration, & beginning to argue, he so baffled the Pro- fessor, that with universal applause they all rose up and did him greate honors, waiting on us to the very streete and our coach, testifying greate satisfaction. 46 THE EXCHANGE, PALAIS, CHAPELL, MARAIS DE TEMPLE. 3 Feb. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to the build- ings is very noble, but the gallery s where they sell their petty merchan- dize are nothing so stately as ours at Londonj no more than the place where they walke below, being onely a low vault. The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in the time of Philip the Faire, noble and spacious. The greate Hall annex'd to it is arched with stone, having a range of pillars in the middle, round which and at the sides are shops of all kinds, especialy Bookesellers. One side is full of pewes for the Clearkes of the Advocates, who swarme here (as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an altar, at which Masse is said daily. Within are several Chambers, Courts, Treasuries, &c. Above that is the most rich and glorious Salle d'Audience, the Chamber of St. Lewis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament sits, richly guilt on embossed carvings & fretts, and exceeding beautified. Within the place where they sell their wares is another narrower gallery full of shopps and toys, &c. which lookes downe into the Prison yard. Decending by a large payre of stayres, we passed by St. Cha- pelle, which is a Church built by St. Lewis, 1242, after the Gotiq manner ; it stands on another Church which is under it, sustain'd by pillars at the sides, which seeme so weak as to appear extraordinary in the artist. This Chapell is most famous for its Relicques, having, as they pretend, almost the intyre Crowne of Thornes ; the Achat Patine, rarely sculptur'd, judg'd one of the largest & best in Europ. There was now a very beautifull Spire erecting. The Court below is very spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and surrounded with shopps, especially Engravers, Goldsmiths, and Watchmakers. In it is a fayre Fountaine & Portico. The Isle du Palais consists of a tri- angular brick building, whereof one side, looking to the river, is in- habited by Goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The front looking on the greate bridge is possessed by Mountebanks. Operators, and Puppetplayers. On the other part is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, especially bread, hearbs, flowers, orange-trees, choyce shrubbs ; here is a shop called Noah's Arke, where are sold all curiosities naturall or artificial, Indian or European, for luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, porselan, dried fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand exotic extravagances. Passing hence we viewed the Port Dauphine, an arch of excellent workman- ship ; the street, bearing the same name, is ample and straite. 4 Feb. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where is a noble Church and Palace, heretofore dedicated to the Knights Templars, now converted to a Piazza, not much unlike ours at Covent Garden, but larger and not so pleasant, tho' built all about with divers con- siderable palaces. The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of greate devotion, dedicated THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYt*. 47 to another of their Amazons sayd to have dehver'd the Citty from the English, for which she is esteem'd the tutelary Saint of Paris, ll stands on a steepe eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by Canons Regular. At the Palais Royale Hen. IV. built a faire quadrangle of stately Palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of a spacious area stands on a noble pedestal, a brazen Statue of Lewis XIII. which tho' made in imitation of that in the Roman Capitol, is nothing so much esteem'd as that on the Pont Neuf. The Hospital of the Quinz-Vingts in Rue St. Honor^ is an excellent foundation ; but above all is the Hotel Dieu for men and women, neare Notre Dame, a princely, pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charitd gave me great satisfaction in seeing how decently and Chris- tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. I have seen them served by noble persons, men and women. They have also gar- dens, walks, & fountaines. Divers persons are here cutt for the stone with greate successe yearly in May. The 2 Chasteletts (supposed to have been built by Julius Caesar) are places of Judicature in Criminal Causes, to which is a strong Prison. The Courts are spacious and magnificent. 8 Feb. I took coach and went to see the famous Jardine Royale, which is an enclosure walled in, consisting of all varieties of ground for planting and culture of medical simples. It is well chosen, having in it hills, meadows, wood and upland, naturall and artificial, and is richly stor'd with exotic plants. In the middle of the Parterre is a faire fountaine. There is a very fine house, chapel, laboratory, orangery, & other accommodations for the President, who is allways one of the King's cheife Physitians. From hence we went to the other side of the towne, and to some distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going by the Bastille, which is the Fortresse Tower and Magazine of this great Citty. It is very spacious within, and there the Grand Master of the Artillery has his house, with faire gardens and walks. The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble Castle, with magnificent apartments, fit for a Royal Court, not forgetting the Chapell. It is the chiefe Prison for persons of quality. About it there is a parke walled in, full of deere, and in one part is a grove 0/ goodly pine-trees. The next day I went to see the Louvre with more attention, its severall Courts and Pavilions. One of the quadrangles, begun by Hen. IV. and finish'd by his son and grandson, is a superb but mix'd struc- ture. The cornices, mouldings, & compartments, with the insertion ol severall colour'd marbles, have been of great expence. We went through the long gallery, pav'd with white & black marble, richly fretted and paynted a fresca. The front looking to the riverj 48 THE THUILLERIES ; ROYAL APARTMENTS ; CREATE GARDEGN tho' of rare worke for the carving, yet wants of that magificence which a plainer and truer designe would have contributed to it. In the Cour aux Thuilleries is a princely fabriq ; the winding geometrical stone stayres, with the cupola, I take to be as bold and noble a piece of architecture as any in Europ of the kind. To this is a Corps de Logis, worthy of so greate a Prince. Under these buildings, thro' a garden in which is an ample fountaine, was the King's printing- house, and that famous letter so much esteem'd. Here I bought divers of the classiq authors, poets & others. We return 'd through another gallery, larger, but not so long, where hung the pictures of all the Kings and Queenes and prime Nobility of France. Descending hence, we went into a lower very large room, call'd the Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted Cimelia, destin'd for statues only, amongst which stands the so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians^ said to be the same which utter'd oracles in that temple. There is a huge globe suspended by chaynes. The pavings, inlayings, and in- crustations of this Hall are very rich. In another more privat garden towards the Queene's apartment is a walke or cloyster under arches, whose terrace is paved with stones of a greate breadth ; it looks towards the river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountaine, stately cypresses, &c. On the river are scene a prodigious number of barges and boates of great length, full of hay, corne, wood, "dne, &c. Under the long gallery dwell goldsmiths, paynters, sta- tuaries, and architects, who being the most famous for their art in Christendom, have stipends allowed them by the King. We went into that of Monsieur Saracin, who was moulding for an image of a Madona to be cast in gold, of a greate size, to be sent by the Queene Regent to Lauretto, as an offering for the birth of the Dauphine, now the young King of France. I finish'd this day with a walke in the greate garden of the Thuil- leries, which is rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or company, by groves, plantations of tall trees, especialy that in the middle, being ot elmes, another oi mulberys. There is a labyrinth of cypresse, noble hedges of pomegranates, fountaines, fishponds, and an aviary. There is an artificial echo, redoubling the words distinctly, and it is never without some faire nymph singing to it. Standing at one of the focus's, which is under a tree, or Httle cabinet of hedges, the voice seems to descend from the clouds ; at another as if it was under-ground. This being at the bottom of the garden, we were let into another, which being kept with all imaginable accuratenesse as to the orangery, pre- cious shrubes, and rare fruites, seem'd a paradise. From a tarrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would hardly think could be maintained in the whole Citty, going, late as it was in the year, towards the Course, which is a place adjoyning, of neere an English THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, +9 mile long, planted with 4 rows of trees, making a large circle in the middle. This Course is walled about, neere breast high, with squar'd freestone, and has a stately arch at the entrance, with set '' 're and statues about it, built by Mary di Medices. Here it i xt the gallants and ladys of the Court take the ayre and divert thembclves, as with us in Hide Park, the circle being capable of containing an hundred coaches to turne commodiously, and the larger of the plantations for 5 or 6 coaches a brest. Returning through the Thuilleries, we saw a building in which are kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a beare, a wolfe, a wild boare, a leopard, &c. 27 Feb. Accompany'd with some EngHsh gentlemen we tooke horse to see St. Germains en Lay, a stately country-liouse of the King, some 5 leagues from Paris. By the way we alighted at St. Cloes, where, on an eminence neere the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely water'd and furnish'd with fountaines, statues, and groves ; the walkes are very faire ; the foun- tain of Laocoon is in a large square pool, throwing the water neere 40 feet high, and having about it a multitude of statues and basines, and is a surprising object ; but nothing is more esteem'd than the cascade falling from the greate stepps into the lowest and longest walke from the Mount Parnassus, which consists of a grotto, or shell house, on the summit of the hill, whetein are divers water- workes and contrivances to wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fayre cupola, the walles paynted with the Muses, and statues placed thick about it, whereof some are antiq and good. In the upper walkes are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the ally 3. In this garden are many other con- trivances. The Palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. The outer walles onely paynted a fi'esca. In the Court is a Volary, and the statues of Charles IX. Hen. III. IV. and Lewis XIII. on horseback, mezzo-relievod in plaster. In the garden is a small chapell ; and under shelter is the figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, with others. From the tarrace above is a tempest well paynted, and there is an excellent prospect towards Paris, the meadows, 6 river. At an inn in this village is an host who treats all the greate persons in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, but they pay well for it, as i have don. Indeed the entertainment is very splendid, and not un- reasonable, considering the excellent manner of dressing their meate, and of the service. Here are many debauches and excessive revellings, being out of observance. About a league farther we went to see Cardinal Richelieu's villa at R-uell. The house is small, but fairely built, in form of a castle, moated round. The offices are towards the road, and over against are large i^ineyards walled in. 50 CARDINAL RICHELIEU'S VILLA ; ITS ATTRACTIONS ; ST. GERMAINS. Though the house is not of the greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent that I doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities pleasure The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre, tiavinf he middst divers noble brasse statues, perpetually spouting •vatei iu.o an ample bassin, with other figures of the same metal ; but what is most admirable is the vast enclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, containing vineyards, cornefields, meadows, groves, (v^hereof one is one of perennial greens), and walkes of vast lengthes, so accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more agreeable. On one of these walkes, within a square of tall trees, is a basilisc ' of copper, which managed by the fountainere casts water neere 60 feet high, and will of itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape wetting. This leads to the Citroniere, where is a noble conserve of all those rarities ; and at the end of it is the Arch of Constantzne, painted on a wall in oyle, as large as the real one at Rome, so well don that even a man skill'd in painting may mistake it for stone and sculpture. The skie and hills which seem to be betweene the arches are so naturall that swallows and other birds, thinking to fly through, have dashed themselves against the wall. At the further part of this walke is that plentiful though artificial cascade which rolls down a very steepe declivity, and over the marble steps and bassins, with an aston- ishing noyse and fury ; each basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheetcs of transparent glasse, especialy that which rises over the greate shell of lead, from whence it glides silently downe a channell thro' the middle of a spacious gravel walke terminating in a grotto. Here are also foun- taines that cast water to a great height, and large ponds, 2 of which have islands for harbour of fowles, of which there is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them built of vast pieces of rock, neere 50 feet high, growne over with mosse, ivy, &c. shaded at a com- petent distance with tall trees, in this the fowles lay eggs and breede. We then saw a large and very rare grotto of shell-worke, in the shape of satyres and other wild fancys : in the middle stands a marble table, on which a fountaine playes in forms of glasses, cupps, crosses, fanns, crownes, &c. Then the fountaineere represented a showre of raine from the topp, mett by small jetts from below. At going out two extra- vagant musqueteeres shot us with a streme of water from their musket barrells. Before tliis grotto is a long poole into which ran divers ipouts of water from leaden escollop bassins. The viewing this para- dise made us late at St. Germains. The first building of this palace is of Cha. V. called the Sage ; but Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it campleate, speaking as to the style of magnificence then in fashion, which was with too greate a mix- ture of the Gotic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his m the old Castle, an irregular peece as built on the old foundation, and 1 Tlve imaginary animal or serpent so called- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 51 having a moate about it. It has yet some spacious & handsome roomes of state, & a chapell neately paynted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided from this by a court, of a lower but more modern designe, built by Hen. IV. To this belong 6 tarraces built of brick & stone, descending in cascads towards the river, cut out of the naturallhill, having under them goodly vaulted galleries ; of these, 4 have subterranean grotts & rocks, where are represented severall objects in the manner of sceanes, and other motions by force of water, shewn by the light of torches onely ; amongst these is Orpheus, with his musiq, & the animalls, which dance after his harp ; in the second is the King and Dolphin (Dauphin) ; in the third is Neptune sounding his trum- pet, his charriot drawne by sea-horses ; in the fourth Perseus & Andromeda ; mills ; hermitages ; men fishing ; birds chirping ; and many other devices. There is also a dry grott to refresh in, all having a fine prospect towards the river and the goodly country about it, especialy the forrest. At the bottom is a parterre ; the upper tarrace neere half a myle in length, with double declivities, arched and balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost. In the Pavilion of the new Castle are many faire roomes, well paynted, and leading into a very noble garden and parke, where is a pall-maill, in the midst of which, on one of the sides, is a Chapell, with stone cupola, tho' small, yet of an handsome order of architec- ture. Out of the parke you goe into the forrest, which being very large is stor'd with dcare, wild boares, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis Court, and Cavalerizzo for the menag'd horses, are also observable. We return'd to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the King's, built by Francis I. and called by that name to absolve him of his oath that he would not go from Madrid, in which he was prisoner in Spayne, but from whence he made his escape. This house is also built in a park, walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes hommes, well situated, with a faire Chapel and Library. I March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace in the Rue de Seine, which is well built. Towards his study and bedchamber joynes a httle garden, which tho' very narrow, by the addition of a well painted perspective is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there is another part, supported by arches, in which runs a streame of water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to flow for some miles^ by being artificially continued in the painting, when it sinkes downe at the wall. It is a very agreeable deceipt. At the end of this garden is a little theater, made to change m ith divers pretty seanes, and the stage so ordered that with figures of men & women paynted on light-boards, and cut out, and, by a person who stands underneath, made to act as if they were speaking, by guiding them, & reciting words in diferent tones as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, where 52 ART TREASURES, PAINTINGS, ETC. PROTESTANT TEMPLE. was a neate invention for reflecting lights by lining divers sconces with :hin shining plates of gilded copper. In one of the rooms of state was an excellent paynting of Poussin, being a Satyre kneeling; over the chimney, the Coronation of the Virgin by Paulo Veroneze : another Madona over the dore, and that of yos. by Cigali ; in the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta atteftded by his page, sayd to be of Mich. Angelo : the Rape of Proserpine, with a very large landskip of Corregio. In the next roome some payntings of Primaticcio, especially the Helena, the naked Lady brought before Alex- ander, well paynted, and a Ceres. In the bedchamber a picture of the Cardinal de Liancoiirt of Raphael, rarely colour'd. In the cabinet are divers pieces of Bassano, 2 of Polemburg, 4 of Paulo Brill, the skyes a little too blew. A Mado7ia of Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Jicdith of Mantegna ; 3 Women of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ; a Madona after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same hand, as the Count esteemes it ; 2 small pieces of Paulo Veroneze, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justifia & St. Catherine, J a Madoiia of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him from our King ; 6 more of old Bassano ; 2 excellent drawings of Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; 4 of Paulo : a very rare Mado7ia of Titian, given him also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut up in a frame of velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding all description. Some curious medals, and a chaplet of admirable inven- tion, the intaglias being all on fruit-stones. The Count was so ex- ceeding civill that he would needes make his Lady goe out of her dressing-roome, that he might shew us the curiosities and the pictures in it. We went thence to visite one Mons. Perishot, one of the greatest virtuosos in France, for his collection of pictures, achates, medal] s, and flowers, especially tulips & anemonies. The chiefest of his payntings was a Sebastia?t of Titian. From him we went to Mons. Frene's, who shew'd us many rare drawings, a Rape of He left in black chalke ; many excellent things of Sneider ; some of Julio & Michael Angelo ; a Madona of Passignano ; some things of Parmensis, & other masters. The next morning being recommended to Mons. de Hausse, Pre- sident du Parliament, and once Ambassador at Venice for the French King, we were very civily receiv'd, and shew'd his Library. Amongst his paintings were, a rare Ve?ius &^ Adonis of Veroneze, a St. Anthony after the first manner of Corregio, and a rare Madona of Palma. Sunday 6 March. I went to Charenton, 2 leagues from Paris, to hearre&see the manner of the French Protestant Churches service The place of meeting they call the Temple, a very faire and spjxious roome, built of free-stone, very decently adorn'd with payntings of the Tables of the Law, the Lords Prayer & Creede. The pulpit stands at the upper end in the middle, having an enclosure of seates about it, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 53 where the Elders, & persons of greatest quality and strangers, sit ; the rest of the congregation on formes & low stooles, but none in pewes as in our Churches, to their greate disgrace & nothing so orderly, as here the stooles & other comber are remov'd when the assembly rises. T was greatly pleas'd with their harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all learn perfectly well, their children being as duely taught as their Catechisme. In our passage we went by that famous bridge over the Marne, where echo returnes the voice of a good singer 9 or lo times. 7 March. I went with some company towards Fontainebleau, a sumptuous palace of the King's, hke ours of Hampton Court, about 14 leagues from the Citty. By the way we pass through a Forest so prodigiously encompass'd with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, heaped one on another in mountainous heights, but I think the like is not to be found elsewhere. It abounds with staggs, wolves, boares, & not long after a lynx or ounce was kill'd amongst them, which had devour'd some passengers. On the summit of one of these gloomy pre- cipices, intermingled with trees and shrubs, the stones hanging over, & menaceing ruine, is built an Hermitage. In these solitudes rogues frequently lurke & do mischiefe {& for whom we were all well appoynted with our carabines), but we arived safe in the evening at the village, where we lay at the Home, going early next morning to the Palace. This house is nothing so stately and uniforme as Hampton Court, but Francis I. began much to beautifie it ; most of all. Hen. IV. and not a little the late King. It abounds with faire halls, chambers, and gallerys ; in the longest, which is 360 foote long, and 18 broad, are paynted the Victories of that great Prince Hen. IV. That of Francis 1. caird the grand Gallery, has all the King's Palaces paynted in it ; above these, in 60 pieces of excellent worke in fresca is the History of Ulysses, from Homer, by Primaticcio in the tyme of Hen. III. esteemed the most renown'd in Europ for the designe. The Cabinet is full of excellent pictures, especialy a Woman of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is a piece of tapistry painted on the wall, very naturally, representing the Victory's of Cha. VII. over our countrymen. In the Salle des Festins is a rare Chimny-piece, & Hen. IV. on horseback, of white marble, esteemed worth 18,000 crowns; Ckinentia & Pax^ nobly don. On columns of jasper, 2 lions of brasse. The new Stayres, and a halfe circular Court, are of modern and good architecture, as is a Chapell built by Lewis XIII. all of jasper, with several incrustations of marble in the inside. Having scene the roomes we went to the Volary, which has a cupola in the middle of it, greate trees and bushes, it bemg full of birds who drank at two fountaines. There is a faire Tennis Court & noble Stables ; but the beauty of all are the Gardens. In the Court of the Fountaines 54 FONTAINEBLEAU, ITS ATTRACTIONS. CORBEIL, NORMANDY. Stand divers antiquities and statues, especialy a Mercury. In the Queenes Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountaine, with numerous other brasse statues. The Create Garden, i8o toises long and 154 wide, has in the centre a fountayne of Tyber of a Colossean figure of brasse, with the Wolfe over Romulus & Rhemus. At each corner of the garden rises a foun- taine. In the Garden of the Fish Pond is a Hercules of white marble. Next is the Garden of the Pines, and without that a Canale of an English mile in length, at the end of which rise 3 jettos in the form of a fleur de lys, of a great height ; on the margin are excellent walkes planted with trees. The carps come familiarly to hand [to be fed]. Hence they brought us to a spring, which they say being first discovered by a dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both with the Palace and Gardens. The rocks at some distance in the Forest yeald one of the most august & stupendous prospects imaginable. The Parke about this place is very large, & the Towne is full of noblemen's houses. Next morning we were invited by a Paynter, who was keeper of the pictures and rarities, to see his owne collection. We were lead thro' a gallery of old Rosso's worke, at the end of which, in another cabinet, were 3 Madonas of Raphael, and 2 of Andrea del Sarto. In the Academy where the Paynter himselfe wrought, was a St. Michael of Raphael, very rare ; St. Jo. Baptist of Leonardo, & a IVoman's head; a Queene of Sicily St. Margaret of Raphael ; 2 more Madonas^ whereof one very large, by the same hand ; some more of del Sarto ; a St. Jero7ne of Perino del Vaga ; the Rape of Proserpine^ very good ; and a greate number of drawings. Returning part of our way to Paris that day, we visited an house cal'd Maison Roiige^ having an excellent prospect, grott, & fountaines, one whereof rises 50 feet, & resembles the noise of a tempest, battailles of gunns, &c. at its issue. We went to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is a greate Vertuoso ; there are many good payntings in it, but nothing so observ- able as his gardens, fountaines, fishe-pooles, especialy that in a triangular forme, the water cast out by a multitude of heads about it ; there is a noble cascade and pretty bathes, with all accommodations. Under a marble table is a fountaine of serpents twisting about a globe. We alighted next at Corbeil, a towne famous for the siege of Hen, IV. Here we slept, & return'd next morning to Paris. 18 March. I went with Sir Jo. Cotton, a Cambridg-shire Knight a journey into Normandy. The first day we passed by Gaillon, the Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The gardens are highly commended, but we did not go in, intending to reach Pontoise by dinner. This towne is built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the Oize, and is well refresh'd with fountaines. This is the first towne in Normandy, and the farthest that the Vine- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 55 yards extend to on this side of the country, which is fuller of playnes, wood and enclosures, with some townes towards the sea, very like England. We lay this night at a vilage call'd Magny. The next day, descending a very steepe hill, we din'd at Fleury, and after rode 5 leagues downe St. Catharine, to Rouen, which affords a goodly prospect to the mines of that chapell & mountaine. This country so abounds with wolves, that a shepherd whom we met told us one of his companions was strangled by one of them the day before, & that in the midst of his flock. The feilds are mostly planted with pears & apples & other cider fruites. It is plentifully furnish'd with quarries of stone & slate, & hath iron in abundance. J. lay at the White Crosse in Rouen, which is a very large Citty, on the Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, call'd the Aubelt and Lobes. There stand yet the ruines of a magnificent bridge of stone, now sup- ply'd by one of boates only, to which come up vessells of considerable burthen. The other side of the water consists of meadows, and there have the Reformed a Church. The Cathedrall Nostre Dame was built, as they acknowledge, by the English ; some English words graven in Gotic characters upon the front seeme to confirm it. The Towers & whole Church are full of carving. It has 3 steeples with a pyramid ; in one of these I saw the famous bell so much talk'd off, 13 foote in height, 32 lound, the diameter 11, weighing 40,000 pounds. In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that name, lies his body, with several faire monuments. The Quire has behind it a greate dragon paynted on the wall, which they say had don much harme to the in- habitants till vanquished by St. Romain their Archbishop, for which there is an annual procession. It was now neere Easter, and many images were expos'd with scenes & stories representing the Passion, made up of little puppets, to which there was great resort and devotion, with offering. Before the Church is a faire Palace. — St. Owen is an- other goodly Church and an Abbey with fine gardens. Here the King hath lodgings when he makes his progresse through these parts. The structure where the Court of Parliament is kept is very magnificent, containing very faire halles & chambers, especialy Lc Chambre d'Orde. The Towne-hou«e is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our merchants of London, in the wooden part of the Citty. 21 March. On Easter Monday we din'd at Totes, a solitary inn between Rouen & Diepe, at which latter place we arived. This towne is situated betweene two mountaines, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the North by our English seas. The Port is commodious, but the entrance is difficult. It has one ampde and faire street e, in which is a pretty church. The Fort Pollet 56 DIEPPE ; HAVRE DE GRACE ; CAEN, TOWN AND ABBEY. consists of a strong earth-worke, and commands the Haven, as on the other side dos the Castle, which is also well fortified, witli the Citadel before it ; nor is the Towne itself a little strong. It abounds with workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and tortoise-shells , & indeed whatever the East Indies afford of cabinets, purcelan, natural &. exotic rarities, are here to be had with abundant choyce. 23 March. We pass'd along the Coast by a very rocky and rugged way, which forc'd us to alight many times before we came to Havre de Grace, where we lay that night. The next morning we saw the Citadel, strong and regular, well stored with artillery, &c. The works furnish'd with faire brasse canon, having a motto, Ratio ulti7na Regiim. The allogiaments of the garrison are uniforme ; a spacious place for drawing up the soldiers, a pretty chapell, and a faire house for the Governor. The Duke of Richelieu being now in the fort, we went to salute him ; who receiv'd us very civily, and commanded that we should be show'd whatever we desired to see. The Citadel was built by the late Card, de Richelieu, unkle of the present Duke, and is very strong. The haven is very capacious. We embarqued ourselves and horses to passe to Honfleur, about 4 or 5 leagues distant, where the Seine falls into the Sea. It is a poore fisher towne, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd yet usefull habites which the good women weare, of beares and other skinns, as of raggs at Dieppe, and all along these coasts. 25 March. We arriv'd at Caen, a noble and beautifull towne, on the river Orne, which passes quite thro' it, the 2 sides of the towne joyn'd only by a bridg of one arch, We lay at the Angel, where we were very well us'd, the place being abundantly furnish'd with provisions at a cheape rate. The most considerable object is the great Abby and Church, large and rich, built after the Gotic manner, having two spires and middle lanterne at the West end, all of stone. The quire round and large, in the centre whereof, elevated on a square, handsome, but plain sepulchre, is this inscription : " Hoc Sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi Conquestoris, Gulielmi, dum viveret Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Caenomano- rumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum anno 1562 vesano hereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tam beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, anno D'ni 1642. D'nojohannf de Baulhache ascetarii Protopriore. P.D.D.P." On the other side are these monkish rhymes : " Qui rexit rigidos Normanos, atq. Britanos Audacter vicit, fort iter obtinuit, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 57 Et Caenomanenses virtiite coercuit enses, Imperiique sui legibus applicuit, Rex magus parva jacet hie Gulielmus in urn4, Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. Ter septem gradibus se volverat, atq. duobus Virginis in gremio PhcEbus, et hie obiit." We went to the Castle, whieh is strong and fayre, and so is the Tovvne-house, built on the bridg whieh unites the two townes. Here are Scholes and an University for the Jurists. The whole Towne is handsomly built of that excellent stone so well knowne by that name in England. I was lead to a pretty garden, planted with edges of Alaternus, having at the entrance a skreene at an exceeding height, accurately eutt in topiary worke, with well under- stood Architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, freezes, and other ornaments, with greate curiosity ; some of the columns wreathed, others spiral, all according to art. 28 March. We went towards Paris, lying the first night at Evreux, a Bishop's seate, an ancient Towne, with a faire Cathedral. The next day we arrived at Paris. I April. I went to see more exactly the roomes of the fine Palace of Luxemburgo, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, built by Mary de Medices, and I think one of the most noble, entire, and finish'd piles, that is to be seen, taking it with the garden and all its accomplish- ments. The gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history of the Foundresses life, rarely designed ; at the end of it is the Duke of Orleans's Library, well furnished with excellent bookes, all bound in maroquin and gilded, the valans of the shelves being of greene velvet fring'd with gold. In the cabinet joyning it are onely the smaler volumes, with 6 cabinets of medails, and an excellent collection of shells, and achates, whereof some are prodigiously rich. This Duke being very learn'd in medails and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. There are other spacious, noble, and princely furnish'd roomes, which looke towards the gardens, and which are nothing inferior to the rest. The Court below is formed into a square by a corridor, having over the chiefe entrance a stately cupola, covered with stone ; the rest is cloistered and arch'd on pillasters of rustiq worke. The tarrace ascending before the front paved with white & black marble, is balus- tred with white marble, exquisitely polish'd. Onely the Hall below is lowe, and the stayrecase somewhat of an heavy designe, but the faciata towards the parterre, which is also arched & vaulted with stone, is of admirable beauty, and full of sculpture. The Gardens are neere an English mile in compasse, enclos'd with a stately wall, and in a good ayre. The parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely design'd and accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes 58 THE BEAUTY OF THE GARDENS OF PALAIS DE LUXEMBOURG. a wonderful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided into 4 squares, & as many circular knots, having in the center a noble basin of marble neere 30 feet diameter (as I remember), in which a triton ot brasse holds a dolphin that casts a girandola of water neere 30 foote high, playing perpetualy, the water being convey'd fiom Arceuil by an aqueduct of stone, built after the old Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre, the spacious vvalkes Sc all included, runs a border of freestone, adorned with pedestalls for potts and statues, and part of it neere the stepps of the terrace, with a raile and baluster of pure white marble. The walkes are exactly faire, long, & variously descending, and so justly planted with Hmes, elms, & other trees, that nothing can be more delicious, especialy that of the hornebeam hedge, which being high and stately, butts full on the fountaine. Towards the farther end is an excavation intended for a vast fish- pool, but never finish'd. Neere it is an inclosure for a garden of simples, well kept, and here the Duke keepes tortoises in greate number, who use the poole of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a conservatory for snow. At the upper part towards the Palace is a grove of tall elmes cutt into a starr, every ray being a walk, whose center is a large fountaine. The rest of the ground is made into severall inclosures (all hedge- worke or rowes of trees) of whole fields, meadowes, boxages, some of them containing divers acres. Next the streete side, and more contiguous to the house, are knotts in trayle or grasse worke, where likewise runs a fountaine. Towards the grotto and stables, within a wall, is a garden of choyce flowers, in which the Duke spends many thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanting to render this palace and gardens perfectly beautifull & mag- nificent ; nor is it one of the least diversions to see the number of persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who frequent it, and to whom all accesse is freely permitted, so that you shall see some walkes & retirements full of gallants and ladys ; in others melancholy fryers ; in others studious scholars ; in others jolly citizens, some sitting or lying on the grasse, others runing, jumping, some playing at bowles and ball, others dancing and singing ; and all this without the least dis- turbance, by reason of the largeness of the place. What is most admirable is, you see no gardners or men at worke, and yet all is kept in such exquisite order as if they did nothing else but work ; it is so early in the morning, that all is dispatch'd and don without the least confusion. I have been the larger in the description of this Paradise, for tht* extraordinary delight 1 have taken in those sweete retirements. The Cabinet and Chapcll neerer the garden front have some choyce pic- tufas. All the houses neere this are also noble palace.'^, especialy THE DIARY OF JOHN EYELYN. 59 Luxejnburf:;e. The ascent of the streete is handsome from its breadth, situation, and buildings. I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques steeple, esteem'd the highest in the towne, from whence I had a full view of I he whole Citty and suburbs, both which, as I judge, are not so large as London : though the dissimilitude of their formes and situations, this round, London long, renders it difficult to determine ; but there is no comparison between the buildings, palaces, and materials, this being entirely of stone and more sumptuous, tho' I esteeme our piazza's to exceede their's. In St. Innocent's Church-yard, where the story of the devouring quality of the ground (consuming bodys in 24 hours), the vast charnells of bones, tombs, piramids, and sepulchres, took up much of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of Nicholas Flamen's philo- sophical worke, who had founded this church, and divers other cha- ritable workes, as he testifies in his booke. Here divers clarks get their livelyhood by inditing letters for poor mayds and other ignorant people who come to them for advise, and to write for them into the Country, every large grave-stone serving for a table. Joyning to this Church is a com'on fountaine, with good relievo's on it. The next day I was carried to see a French gentleman's curious col- lection, which abounded in faire & rich jewels of all sorts of precious stones, most of them of greate sizes and value ; achates & onixes, some of them admirably colour'd & antique ; nor inferior were his landskips from the best hands, most of which he had caused to be copy'd in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on stone, was broken by one of our company, by the mischance of setting it up ; but such was the temper & civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing ot his free & noble humor. The next morning I went to the Garden of Monsieur Morine, who from being an ordinary gardner is become one of the most skillful and curious persons in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, & insects. His Garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with cypresse cutt flat & set as even as a wall : the tulips, anemonies, ranunculus's, crocus's, &c. are held to be of the rarest, and draw all the admirers of such things to his house during the season. He lived in a kind of Hermit- age at one side of his garden, where his collection of purselane and coral, whereof one is carved into a large Crucifix, is much esteemrd. He has also bookes of prints, by Albert [Durer], Van Leyden, Calot, &c. His collection of all sorts of insects, especially of Butterflys, is most curious ; these he spreads and so medicates that no corruption invading them, he keepes them in drawers, so plac'd as to represent a beautiful! piece of tapistre. 6o PALAIS CARDINAL ; BOIS DE BOULOGNE ; LOIRE, PARIS. He shew'd me the remarks he had made on their propagation, which he promis'd to pubHsh. Some of these, as also of his best flowers, he had caus'd to be painted in miniature by rare hands, and some in oyle I went to see divers of the fairest Palaces, as that of Vendosme, very large and stately ; Longueville ; Guyse ; Condi ; Chevereuse ; Nevers, esteem'd one of the best in Paris towards the river. I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by Richelieu to the King, on condition that it should be called by his name ; at this time the King resided in it, because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble house, tho' somewhat low ; the gallerys, paintings of the most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Oueenes bathes, presence chamber with its rich carved and gilded roofe, theatre, & large garden, in which is an ample fountaine, grove, and maille, are worthy of remark. Here I also frequently went to see them ride and exercise the Create Horse, especialy at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, and de Veau, whose scholes of that art are frequented by the Nobility; and here also young gentlemen are taughi to fence, daunce, play on musiq, and something in fortification & the mathematics. The designe is admirable, some keeping neere an hundred brave horses, aU managed to the greate saddle. 1 2th. I took coach to see a general muster of all the gens d'armes about the Citty in the Bois de Boulogne before their Majesties and all the Grandees. They were reputed to be neere 20,000, besides the spectators who much exceeded them in number. Here they performed all their motions, and being drawne up, horse & foote, into several figures, represented a battell. The sum'er now drawing neere, I determined to spend the rest of it in some more remote towne on the river Loire ; and on 19 April 1 tooke lea ve of Paris, and, by the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to Orleans. The way, as indeed most of the roades in France, is paved with a small square freestone, so that there is little dirt and bad roads, as in England, onely 'tis somewhat hard to the poor horses feete, which causes them to ride more temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or grajtd pas, as they call it. We passed several wall'd townes or villages ; amongst others of note, Chartres and Estampes, where we lay the first night. This has a faire church. 20 April. We had an excellent road, but had like to come short home ; for no sooner were we cntred two or three leagues into the Poorest of Orleans (which extends itself many miles), but the company behind us were set on by rogues, who, shooting from the hedges and frequent covert, slew foure upon the spot. This disaster made such an aiarme in Orleans at our arrival, that the Prevost Martial, with his assistants, going in pcrsuite, brought in two whom they had shot, and exposed them in the greate market-place, to see if any would take cog- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 6i nizance of them. I had greate cause to give God thankes for this escape. I lay at the White Lion, where I found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary [Nicholas]. In the night a cat kitten'd on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight leggs, two bodys from the navil downwards, and two tayles. I found iA dead, but warm, in the morning when I awaked. 21 April. The citty is well built of stone, on the side of the Loj're. About the middle of the river is an island, full of walkes and faire trees, with some houses. Tliere is a stately stone bridge, reaching to the opposite suburbs, built likewise on the edge of an hill, from whence is a beautifull prospect. At one end of the bridge are strong toures, and .ibout the middle, on one side, is the statue of the Virgin Mary or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, as big as the life. At one side of the Crosse kneeles Cha. VII. arm'd, and at the other Joan d'Arc, arm'd like a cavalier, with boots and spurrs, her hayre dischevel'd, as the deliveress of the towne from our countrymen, when they besieg'd it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a pedistall full of inscriptions as well as a faire columne joyning it, which is adorn'd with fieurs de lys and a crucifix, with two saints proceeding as it were from two branches out of its capital. The inscriptions on the Crosse are in Latine : " Mors Christi in cruce nos a contagione labis et a^turnorum morborum sanavit." On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo hostes pro- fligavit, et Johan'a Virgo Aureliam obsidio liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. f." — " Octannoq' Galliam servitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum est illud, et est mirabili in oculis nostris ; in quoram memoria haec nostrse fidei Insignia." To this is made an annual procession on 12 May, Masse being sung before it, attended with great ceremony and con- course of people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's cup-bearers are, as I was assured, sworn e never to give the King any of it ; but it is a very noble liquor, and much of it transported into other countrys. The town is much frequented by strangers for the greate purity of the language here spoken, as well as for divers other priviledges ; and the University makes the towne much frequented by strangers, especialy Germans, which causes the English to make no long sojourne hear, except such as can drinke and debauch. The Citty stands in the County of Beaulse, was once stiled a Kingdom, after- wards a Dutchy, as at present, belonging to the second son of France. Many Councils have been held here, and some Kings crown'd. The University is veryantient, divided now by the students into that of four nations, French, High Dutch, Normans, and Picardins, who have each their respective protectors, severall officers. Treasurers, Consuls, Scales, &c. There are in it two reasonable faire publiq Libraries, whence one may borrow a booke to one's chamber, giving but a note under hand, which is an extraordinary custome, and a confidence that has cost 62 CITY OF ORLEANS ; BLOIS ; PALACE OF CHAMBOURG. many Libraries deare. The first church I went to visit vvas St. Croix ; it has been a stately fabric, but has been much ruin'd by the late Civil Warrs. They report the towre of it to have been the highest in France. There is the beginning of a faire reperation'. About this cathedrall is a very spacious cemeterie. The tovvne-hous is nobly built, with a high tower to it. The market-place and streetes, some whereof are deli- ciously planted with limes, are ample and straite, so well paved with a kind of pebble, that I have not seen a neater towne in France. This Citty was by Francis I. esteemed the most agreeable of his great dominions. 28 April. Taking boate on the Loir, I went towards Blois, the pas- sage and river being both very pleasant. Passing Mehun, we dined at Baugency, and slept at a little towne called St. Dieu. Quitting our barke, we hired horses to Blois, by the way of Chambourg, a famous house of the King's, built by Francis L in the middle of a solitary parke, full of deere ; the enclosure is a wall. I was particularly desirous of seeing this palace from the extravagance of the designe, especialy the stayre-case mentioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were constantly employ'd in this fabric for twelve yeares : if so, it is wonderfuU that it was not finish'd it being no greater than divers gen- tlemens houses in England, both for rome or circuit. The carvings are very rich and full. The stayre-case is devised with four entries or ascents, which cross one another, so that tho' four persons meete, they never come in sight, but by small loopeholes, till they land. It con- sists of 274 stepps (as I remember), and is an extraordinary worke, but of far greater expense than use or beauty. The chimnys of the house appeare like so many towres. About the whole is a large deepe moate. The country about it full of corne and wine, with many faire noblemens houses. We ariv'd at Blois in the evening. The town is hilly, uneven, and rugged. It stands on the side of the Loire, having suburbs joyn'd by a stately stone bridg, on which is a pyramid with an inscription. At the entrance of the castle is a stone statue of Lewis XII. on horseback, as large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are these words : * Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra manu : Fselix quce tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis Gallica non aiio principe digna fuit.' Under this is a very wide payre of gates, nailed full of wolves and wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the present Duke Gastion had begun a faire building, through which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for its furniture one of the fairest, especialy for simples and exotic plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the right hand is a longe gallery full of ancient statues and inscriptions, both of THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELVN. 63 marble and brasse ; the length, 300 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower ground, having a very noble fountaine. There is the por- trait of an hart, taken in the forest by Lewis XII. which has 24 antlers on its head. In the Collegiate Church of St. Saviour we saw many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois. Sunday, being May day, we walked up into the Pall Mall, veiy long and so nobly shaded with tall trees (being in the midst of a greate wood), that, unless that of Tours, I had not seen a statelier. From hence we proceeded with a friend of mine through the ad- joyning forestt to see if we could meete any wolves, which are here in such numbers that they often come and take children out of the very streetes ; yet will not the Duke, who is sov'raigne here, permite them to be destroy'd. We walked five or six miles outright, but met with none ; yet a gentleman who was resting himselfe under a tree, with his horse grazing by him, told us that, halfe an houre before, two wolves had set upon his horse, and had in probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by him. At a little village at the end of this wood we eat excellent creame, and visited a castle builded on a very steepe cliff. Bloys is a towne where the language is exactly spoken ; the inhabit- ants very courteous ; the ayre so good, that it is the ordinary nursery of the King's children. The people are so ingenious, that, for gold- smith's worke and watches, no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the river are very rich and pleasant. 2 May. We took boate, passing by Charmont, a proud castle on the left hand ; before it is a sweete island, deliciously shaded with tall trees. A little distance from hence we went on shore at Ambois, a very agreeable village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue slate, as the towns on the Loyre generally are ; but the castle chiefely invited us, the thicknesse of whose towers, from the river to the top, was admirable. We enter'd by the draw-bridg, which has an invention to let one fall, if not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious cham- bers, and one stayre-case, is large enough, and sufficiently com'odious to receive a coach, and land it on the very towre, as they told us had been don. There is some artillery. In the ancient chapell is a stag's head or branches, hung up by chayns, consisting of twenty brow ant- lers, the beame bigger than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should be artificial ; they show also the ribs and vertebrae of the same beast ; but these might be made of whalebone. Leaving the Castle we pass'd Mont Louis, a village having no house above ground, but such onely as are hewn out of the maine rocks tvhich are of excellent free-stone. Here and there the lunnell of a chimny appears on the surface amongst the vineyards which are over them, and in this manner they inhabite the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one side of the river for many miles. 64 TOURS; ITS ATTRACTIONS. STOP THERE. SILK- WORLiS, We now come within sight of Tours, where we were design'd for the rest of the time I had resolv'd to stay in France, the sojournment being so agreeable. Tours is on the easy side of an hill on the river Loyre, having a faire bridge of stone, called St. Edme ; the streetes are very long, straite, spacious, well built, & exceeding cleane ; the suburbs large and pleasant, joyn'd to the citty by another bridg. Both the Church and Monastry of St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, having 4 square towers, faire organs, and a stately altar where they shew the bones and ashes of St. Martine, with other reliques. The Mall without comparison is the noblest in Europe for length and shade, having 7 rowes of the tallest and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the inner- most of which do so embrace each other, & at such a height, that nothin::^ can be more solemn and majestical. Here we play'd a party or two> and then walked about the Towne walles, built of square stone, fiird with earth, & having a moate. No citty in France exceeds it in beauty or delight. 6 May. We went to St. Gratian, reported to have been built by our countrymen ; the dyal and clock-work are much esteem'd. The Church has two handsom towres & spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble & venerable. To this joynes the Palace of the Arch- bishop of old and new building, with many faire roomes, and a faire garden. Here I grew acquainted with one Mons. Merey, a very good Musitian. The Archbishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers other Churches, Chapells, & Monasteries, for the most part neatly built, and full of pretty payntings, especialy the Convent of the Capucines, which has a prospect over the whole Citty and many faire walks. 8th. I went to see their manufactures in Silke (for in this towne they drive a very considerable trade with silk-wormes), their pressing & watering the grograms and chambletts, with weights of an extra- ordinary poyse, putte into a rolling engine. Here I took a master of the language and studied the tongue very diligently recreating myself sometimes at the Maill, and sometymes about the Towne. The house opposite my lodging had been formerly a Palace of the King's, the outside was totaly cover'd with fleurs de lyes, emboss'd out of the stone. Here Mary de Medici had her Court when she was compell'd to retire from Paris by the persecution of the Cardinal. 25. Was the Fete Dieit^ and a goodly procession of all the religious orders, the whole streetes hung with their best tapistrys, and their most precious moveables expos'd ; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures in abundance ; the streets strew'd with flowres, and full of pageantry, banners, and bravery. 6 June. I went iDy water to visit that goodly and venerable Abby of Marmoustier, being one of the greatest in the Kingdome. There is ^ large Church of stone, with a very high pyramid Amon^^st other T1!E DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 65 reliques the Menkes shew'd us is the Holy Ampoule, the same with that which sacres their Kings at Rhemes, this being the one which anoynted Hen. IV. Ascending many stepps we went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were shew'd a vast Tun (as big as that at Heidel- berg), which they report St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of grapes growing there. 7. We walked about 2 miles from the Citty to an agreeable sob tude called du Plcssis, a house belonging to the King. It has many pretty gardens, full of nightingales. I n the ChapcU lyes buried the famous Poet Ronsard. Returning, we stepp'd into a Convent of Franciscans called St. Cosmo, where the Cloister is painted with the miracles of their St Francis a Paula, whose ashes lie in their Chapell, with this inscrip- tion : 'Corpus Sancti Fran a Paula 1507. 13 Aprilis. concrematur vero ab Haereticis anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent.' The tomb has 4 small pyramids of marble at each corner. 9 June. 1 was invited to a Vineyard, which was so artificialy planted and supported with arched poles that stooping downe one might see from end to end, a very greate length, under the vmes, the bunches hanging down in abundance. 20 June. We took hors to see certain natural Caves, caled Goutiere, neare Colombiere, where there is a spring within the bowells of the earth very deepe, & so excessive cold that the dropps meeting wiUi some stony matter it converts them into an hard stone, which hangs about like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures and sugar plums as wee call them. Neere this we went under the ground almost two furlongs, lighted with candles, to see the source and spring which serves the whole Citty, by a passage cut through the maine rock of free-stone. 28. I went to see the Palace and Gardens of Chevereux, a sweele place. 30. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche Corbo, to the mines of an old & very strong Castle sayd to have ben built by the English, of great hight, on the precipice of a dreadfuU cliff, from whence the country and river yeald a most incomparable prospect. 27 July. I heard excellent musiq at the Jesuites, who have here a Schole and Convent, but a meane Chapell. We had now store of those admirable melons so much celebrated in France for the best of the kingdom. I Augt. My valet, one Garno, a Spaniard borne in Biscay, having misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ; he demanded of me (be sides his wages) nolesse then 100 crownes to carry him to his country ; refusing to pay it, as no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest me : the next day I was to appear in Court, where both our A-dvocats pleaded before the Lieutemiant Civile. The Judge imrne- 5 66 TROUBLED BY MY VAT.ET. TOURS ; RICHELIEU. diately acquitting me, after he bad reproached the Advocate who tooke part with my servant, he rose from the Bench, and making a courteous excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be so us'd, he conducted mee through the Court to the streete-dore. This varlet afterwards threatened to pistol me. The next day I waited on the Lieutennant to thanke him for his greate civility. 1 8 Aug. The Queene of England came to Tours, having newly ariv'd in France, and going for Paris. She was very nobly receiv'd by the People and Cleargy, who went to meete her with the trained bands. After the harangue the Archbish'p entertain'd her at his Palace, where I paid my duty to her. The 20th she set forward to Paris. 8 Sept. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to this place, where I settled them in their pension and exercises. 14. We tooke post for Richlieu, passing by I'lsle Bouchart, a vil- lage. — 15. We arivM at the Towne, and went to see the Cardinal's Palace neare it. The Towne is in a low, marshy ground, having a small river cut by hand, very even and straite, capable of bringing up a small vessell. It consists of onely one considerable streete, the houses on both sides (as indeed throughout the towne) built exactly uniforme, after a modern handsome designe. It has a large goodly Market-house and Place, opposite to which is the Church built of free- stone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow from the towers. The Church is well-built, of a well-ordered architecture, hand- somely pav'd and adorn'd. To this towne belongs an Academy, where, besides the exercise of the horse, armes, dauncing, &c. all the sciences are taught in the vulgar French by Professors stipendiated by the greate Cardinal, who by this, the cheape living there, and divers priviledges, not only design'd the imprx)vement of the vulgar language, but to draw people and strangers to the towne ; but since the Cardinal's death it is thinly inhabited, standing so much out of the way, and in a place not well situated for health or pleasure. He was allured to build by the name of the place, and an old house there belonging to his ancestors. This pretty town is handsomely wall'd about & moated, with a kind of slight fortification, two faire gates & draw-bridges. Before the gate towards the Palace is a spacious circle, where the Faire is annually kept. About a flite-shot from the towne is the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, tho' on an old designe, not altogether Gotiq, but mix'd, inviron'd by a cleare moate. The roomes are stately, most richly furnish'd with tissue, damask, aras, and velvet, pictures, statues, vases, & all sorts of antiquities, especialy the Ccesars in oriental alabaster. The long gallerv is paynted with the famous acts of the Founder ; the roofe with the life of Julius Ca:sar ; at the end of it is a Cupola or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of black marble. The Chapell anciently belonging to the family of the Founder. The Court is very ample. The Gardens without are very large, and the parterres THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 67 of excellent imbrodry, set with many statues of brasse and marble ; the groves, meadows, and walkes are a real paradise. 16. We returned to Tours, from whence, after 19 weekes sojourne, we went towards the more Southern parte of France, minding now to shape my course so as I might winter in Italy. 16 Sept. With my friend Mr. Thicknesse and our guide we went the first day 7 leagues to a castle called Chenonceaux, built by Cath. de Medici, and now belonging to the Duke of Vendosme, standing on a bridg. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster. 2 1 St. We pass'd by Ville Franche, where we din'd, and so by Muneton, lying at Viaron au mouton, which was 20 leagues. The next day by Murg to Bourges, 4 leagues, where we spent the day. This is the capital of Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, situated on the River Eure. It stands high, is strong, & well placed for defence. It is inviron'd with meadows and vines ; the living here is very cheap. In the suburbs of St. Prie there is a fountaine of sharp water which they report wholesome against the stone. They shew'd us a vast tree which they say stands in the center of France. The French tongue is spoken with great purity in this place. St. Stephen's Church is the Cathedrall, well built a la Gotic^ full of sepulchres without-side, with the representation of the final judgment over one of the ports. Here they shew the Chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a famous souldier who had serv'd six Kings of France in their warrs. St Chapell is built much like that at Paris, full of reliques, and the bones of one Briat, a gyant of 15 cubits high. This was built by John Duke of Berry, and they shew'd the coronet of the dukedom. The great tour is a Pharos for defence of the towne, very strong, in thicknesse 18 foote, fortified with a graff and workes ; there is a garri- son in it, and a strange engine for throwing great stones, and the yron Cage where Lewes Duke of Orleans was kept by Charles VIII. Neere the Town-house stands the Colledge of Jesuites, where was heretofore an Amphitheatre. I was courteously entertayned by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth seeing, l^ourges is an Archbishopric, Primate of Aquitain. I tooke my leave of Mr. Nicholas and some other English there ; and on the 23d pro- ceeded on my journey by Pont du Charge ; and lay that evening at Coulaiure, 13 leagues. 24, by Franchede St. Menou, thence to Moulins where we din'd. This is the chiefe towne of the Bourbonois, on the river Allier very navigable. The streetes are faire ; the Castle has a noble prospect, and has been the seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty parke and gar- den. After dinner came many who offered knives and scissars to sell, it being a towne famous for those trifles. This Dutchy of Bourbon is ordinarily assigned for the dowry of the Queenes of France. 68 VARENNE ; BOURBON ; ROAN ; TARRARE ; LIONS. Hence we tooke horse for Varenne, an obscure village, where we lay that night. The next day we went somewhat out of the way to see the towne of Bourbon I'Archambaut, from whose ancient and ragged castle is deriv'd the name of the present Royal Family of France. The castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking the towne. In the midst of the streetes are some bathes of medicinal waters, some of them excessively hot, but nothing so neately wall'd & adorn'd as ours in Som'ersetshire ; and indeede they are cbiefly for drinking, our Queen being then lodged there for that purpose. After dinner I went to see the St. Chapel, a prime place of devotion, where is kept one of the thornes of our Saviour's crowne, & a piece of the real crosse ; excellent paintings on glasse, and some few statues of stone and wood, which they show for curiosities. We went forward to Palissc, a village that lodged us that night. 26 Sept. We ariv'd at Roan, where we quitted our guide and tooke post for Lions. Roan seem'd to me one of the pleasantest and most agreeable places imaginable for a retyred person : besides the situation on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheape and aboundant. It being late when we left this towne, we rode no farther than Tarrare that night (passing St. Saforin), a little desolate village in a vally near a pleasant streame, encompass'd with fresh meadows and vineyards. The hills which we rod over before we descended, and afterwards on the Lions side of this place, are high and mountainous ; fir and pines grow frequently on them. The ayre methought was much alter'd, as well as the manner of the houses, v/hich are built flatter, more after the Easterne manner. Before I went to bed I tooke a landskip of this pleasant terrace. There followed a most violent tempest of thunder and hghtning. 27. We rod by Pont Charu to Lions, which being but six leagues we soone accomplish'd it, having made 85 leagues from Toures in seven days. There at the Golden Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my acquaintance, who coming from Paris, design'd for Italy. We lost no time in seeing the Citty, because of being ready to accom- pany these gentlemen in their journey. Lions is excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane and Rhodanus, whi'ch wash the walls of the Citty in a very rapid streame ; each of these has its bridg ; that over the Rhone consists of 28 arches. The two high cliffs called St. Just and St. Sebastian are very stately ; on one of them stands a strong fort, garrison'd. We Mssited the Cathedrall, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest clockes {c\K art and buisy invention I had ever scene. The fabriq ot the Church is Gotic, as are likewise those of St. Estidnne and St. Croix. From the top of one of the towers of St. Jean (for it has 4) we beheld the whole citty and country, v/ith a prospect reaching to the Alpes, many THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 69 leagues distant. The Archbishop's Palace is fairely built. The Church of St. Niser is the greatest ; that of the Jacobins is well built. Here are divers other fine Churches, with other noble buildings. We went to that of the Charitd, or greate Kospitall for poor infirme people, en- tertaining about 1500, with a schoole, granary, gardens, and all conve- niences, maintained at a wonderful expence, worthy seeing. The place of the Belle Court is very spacious, observable for the view it affords, so various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyaiils, gardens, precipices, and other advantages, presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is sett with faire trees. This stately, cleane and noble Citty built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and rich mer- chants. Those of Florence obtain greate privileges above the rest. In the Towne-house they shew 2 tables of brass on which is engraven Claudius's speech to the Senat as to giving the Towne the Roman priviledges. There are also other antiquities. 30 Sept. We bargain'd with a waterman to carry us to Avignon on the river, and got the first night to Vienne in Dauphind. This is an Archbishoprick, and the Province gives title to the Heir Apparent of France. Here we supped and lay, having amongst other dainties, a dish of trufles, an earth nut, found out by an hogg train'd to it, and for which those animals are sold at a great price.* W^e were shew'd the mines of an Amphitheatre pretty entire ; and many handsome Palaces, especialy that of Pontius Pilate not far from the towne, at the foote of a sohtary mountain neere the river, having 4 pinnacles. Here 'tis reported he pass'd his exile, and precipitated himselfe into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, and seemes to be the seate of some gentleman, being in a very pleasant place. The Cathe- dral of Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty buildings, but nothing more so than the Mills where they hammer and pohsh the sword-blades. Hence the next morning we swam (for the river here is so rapid that the boat was only steered) to a small village called Tain, where we dyn'd. Over against this is another towne named Tournon, where is a very strong castle under a high precipice. To the castle joynes the Jesuits Colledge where they have a fayre library. The prospect was so tempting that I designed it with my crayon. We then came to Valence, a capital Citty carrying the title of a Dutchy, but the Bishop is now sole lord temporal of it and the country about it. The towne having an University famous for the study of the civil law, is much frequented ; but the Churches are none of the fairest, having been greatly defaced in the time of the warrs. The streets are full of pretty fountaines. The Citadell is strong and gar- rison'd. Here we pass'd the night. The next morning by Pont St • In England they are found by dost" 70 ORANGE ; AVIGNON ; VAUCLUSE ; AIX ; MARSEILLES. Esprit, which consists of 22 arches ; in the piers of the arches are windowes as it were, to receive the water when it is high and full. At tills place we went on shore, it being very dangerous to passe the bridg in a boat. Hence leaving our barg we tooke horse, seing at a distance the Towne and Principality of Orange, and lodging one night on the way we ariv'd at noone at Avignon. This towne has belonged to the Popes ever since the time of Clement VI. being in 1352 alienated by Jane Queene of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates the soldiers at the guard tooke our pistols and carbines, and examin'd us very strictly ; after that, having obtain'd the Governor's leave and the Vice-Legat's to tarry three days, we were civilly conducted to our lodging. The City is on the Rhodanus, and divided from the newer part or towne, which is on the other side of the river, by a very faire stone bridge (which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, on which is a strong castle well furnish'd with artillery. The w^alls of the Citty are of large square free-stone, the most neate and best in repaire I ever saw. It is full of well-built Palaces ; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous Churches, especially St. Magdalene and St. Martial, wherein [the tomb of] the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most observable. Clement VI. Hes buried in that of the Celestines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich. There is the tomb of Laura the celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the Arsenal, the Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jewes who here are distinguished by red hats. Vaucluse, so much renowned for the solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the Castle, but could not go to visit it for want of time. We now took mules and a guide for Marseilles. 30 Sept. We lay at Loumas ; the next morning came to Aix, having pass'd that extremely rapid and dangerous river of Durance. In this tract all the heathes or com'ons are cover'd with rosemary, lavender, lentiscs, and the like sweet shrubes, for many miles together, which to me was very pleasant. Aix is the chiefe Citty of Provence, being a Parliament and Presidential Town, with other Royal Courts and Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses very high and the streetes ample. The Cathedrall, St. Saviour's, is a noble pile adorn'd with innumerable figures especialy that of St. Michael ; the Baptisterie, the Palace, the Court, built in a most spacious Piazza, are very faire. The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, being furnished with many antiquities in and about it. The Jesuites have here a Royal Colledge, and the City is an University. 7 Oct. We had a most delicious journey to Marseilles, thro' a country sweetely declining to the South and Mediterranean coasts, full of vine- yards and oHve-yards, orange trees, myrtils, pomegranads, and the hke swecte plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 71 villas to the number of above 1500 built all of freestone, and in pros- pect shewing as if they were so many heapes of snow dropp'd out of the clouds amongst those perennial greens. It was almost at the shutting of the gates that we arived. Marseilles is on the sea coast, on a pleasant rising ground, well walled, with an excellent port for ships and gallys, secur'd by a huge chayne of yron drawn across the harbour at pleasure, and there is a well -fortified tower with 3 other forts, especialy that built on a rock ; but the castle commanding the Citty is that of Nostre dame de la Guard. In the Chapel hung up divers crocodiles skinns. We went to visite the Gallys, being about 25 ; the Captaine of the Gaily Royal gave us most courteous entertainement in his cabine, the slaves in the interim playing both loud and soft musiq very rarely. Then he shew'd us how he commanded their motions w ith a nod and his whistle, making them row out. The spectacle was to me new and strange, to see so many hundreds of miserably naked persons, having their heads shaven close and having onely high red bonnets, a payre of course canvas drawers, their whole backs and leggs naked, doubly chayn'd about their middle and leggs, in couples, and made fast tc their seates, and all commanded in a trise by an imperious and cruell seaman. One Turke he much favor'd, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no other dress than the rest, and a chayne lock'd about his leg but not coupled. This gaily was richly carv'd and gilded, and most of the rest were very beautifull. After bestowing something on the slaves, the captain sent a band of them to give us musiq at dinner where we lodged. I was amaz'd to contemplate how these miserable catyfs lie in their gaily crowded together, yet there was hardly one but had some occupation by which, as leisure and calmes permitted, they gat some little monye, insomuch as some of them have, after many yeares of cruel servitude, been able to purchase their liberty. Their rising forward and falling back at their oare is a miserable spectacle, and the noyse of their chaines with the roaring of the beaten waters has something of strange and fearfuU to one unaccustomed to it. They are rul'd and chastiz'd by strokes on their backs and soles of theire feete on the least disorder, and without the least humanity ; yet are they chereful and full of knavery. In the church of St. Victoire is that Saint's head in a shnne of silver which weighs 600 lb. Nostre Dame is well built ; it is the Cathedrall. The Duke of Guyse has a Palace : there is the Palais of Justice, the Maison du Roy, but nothing is more strange than the great number of slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens, with their confus'd noises and gingling of their huge chaynes. The cheife trade of the towne is in silks and drougs out of Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Bar- bary horses which are brought hither in great numbers. The towne is govern'd by 4 Captaines, has three Consuls and one Assessor, three PEKIGUEUX ; CANES ; NICE ; MONACO ; CORSICA- judges Royal ; the Merchants have a Judge for ordinary causes. Ifere we bought umbrellas against the heats, and consulted of our journey to Canes by land, for feare of the Pickaron Turkes, who make prize of many small vessels about these parts, we not finding a gaily bound for Genoa, whither we were design'd. 9 Oct. We tooke mules, passing the first night very late in sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grott where they affirme Mary Magdalen did her pennance. The next day we lay at Perigueux, a Citty built on an old foundation, witnesse the ruines of a most stately amphitheater which I went out to design, being about a flight shoote from the Towne ; they call it now the Rolsies. There is a strong towre neere the Towne call'd the Visone, but the Towne and Citty are at some distance from each other. It is a bishoprick ; has a Cathedral ; with divers noble- men's houses in sight of the sea. The place was formerly call'd Forum Julij, well known by Antiquaries. 10 Oct. We proceeded by the ruines of a stately aqueduct. The soile about the Country is rocky, full of pines and rare simples. II. We lay at Canes, which is a sm.dl Port on the Mediterranean ; here we agreed with a seaman to carr>' us to Genoa, and having pro- cur'd a bill of health (without which there is no admission at any towne in Italy,) we embarq'd on the I2th. We touched at the Islands of St. Margaret and St. Plonore, lately retaken from the Spanyards with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, having payd some small duty, we bought some trifles offer'd us by the souldiers, but without going on shore. Hence we coasted within 2 leagues of Antibes, which is the utmost towne in France. Thence by Nice, a Citty in Savoy built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant appearance towards the sea, having a castle built very high, which com'ands it. We sailed by Morgus, now cal'd Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus Herculis, when, ariving after the gates were shut, we were forc'd to abide all night in the barg, which was put into the haven the wind coming contrary. In the morning we were hastned away, having no time permitted us by our avaricious master to go up and see this strong and considerable place ; it now belongs to a Prince of the family of ( Irimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and himself under the protec- tion of the French. The situation is on a promontory of soHd stone and rock. The towne walls very fayre. We were told that within it WAS an ample court, and a palace, furnish'd with the most rich and prificely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures, and massiv plate to an immense amount. We sailed by Menton and Vintimiglia, being the first Citty of the Rcpubliq of Genoa : supp'd at Oneglia, where we anker'd and lay on siiore. The next morning we coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica and St. Remo, where the shore is furnish'd with evergreens, oranges, citrons, and date-trocs ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morning THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 73 by Diano Aroisso, famous for the best corrall fishing, it growing in rjjoundance on the rocks deepe and continiialy covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale a very faire and strong towne belonging to the King of Spain, for which reason a Monsieur in our vessell was ex- ■-reamely afraide, as was the patron of our barke, for they frequently catch French prizes as they creepe by these shores to go into Italy ; he therefore ply'd both sayles and oars to get under the protection of a Genoese gaily that pass'd not far before us, and in whose company we sayl'd as far as the Cape of Savona, a towne built at the rise oi the Ape- nines ; for all this coast (except a little at St. Remo) is an high and steepe mountainous ground consisting all of rock marble, without any grasse, tree, or rivage, formidable to looke on. A strange object it is to con- sider how some poore cottages stand fast on the declivities of these precipices, and by what steps the inhabitants ascend to them. The rocks consist of all sorts of the most precious marbles. Here, on the 15th, forsaking our gaily, we encountered a little foule weather, which made us creepe Terra^ Terra^ as they call it, and so a vessell that encounter'd us advised us to do ; but our Patron, striving to double the point of Savona, making out into the wind put us into great hazard, for blowing very hard from land betwixt those horrid gapps of the mountaines, it set so violently as rais'd on the sudden so great a sea that we could not recover the weather shore for many houres, insomuch that, what with the water already enter'd, and the confusion of fearful passengers (ot which one who was an Irish Bishop, and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the article of death), we were almost abandon'd to despaire, our pilot himselfe giving us up for lost. And now, as we were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost sinking, it pleas'd God on the suddaine to appease the wind, and with much ado and greate perill we recover'd the shore, which we now kept in view within halfe a league, in sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those fragrant orchards which are on this coast, full of princely retirements for the sumptuousnesse of their buildings and noblesse of the plantations, especialy those at St. Pietro d'Arena, from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might per- fectly be smelt the joys of Italy in the perlumes of orange, citron, and jassmine flowers for divers leagues seaward.' 16 Oct. We got to anker under the Pharos, or watch-tower, built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole of Genoa, the weather b^ng still so fowle that for two houres at least we durst not stand mto the haven. Towards evening we adventured, and came on shore by the Prattiq-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, wer were had to the Ducal Palace, and there, our names being taken, we were conducted to our inne kept by one Zacharias an Englishman. I Mr. Evelyn was so struck with the circumstance of the fragrancy of the air on this coast, that he has i.oticed it again in his Dedication of the Fumifugium to Charles II. 74 GENOA, ITS BEAUTY AND SITUATION. MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE. I shall never forget a story of our host Zachary, who on the relation of our perill told us another of his owne, being shipvvreck'd, as he affirm'd solemnly, in the middle of a greate sea somewhere in the West Indies, that he swam no lesse than 22 leagues to another island, with a tinder-box wrapcd up in his hayre, which was not so much as wett all the way ; that picking up the carpenter's tooles with other provi- sions in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompany'd him, (good swimers it seemes both) floated the chest before them, and ariving at last in a place full of wood, they built another vessell and so escaped. After this story we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us quite downe. 17 Oct. Accompany'd by a most courteous merchand call'd Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The Citty is built in the hollow or bosom of a mountaine, whose ascent is very steepe, high, and rocky, so that, from the Lantern and Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a theater ; the streetes and buildings so ranged one above another as our seates are in play-houses ; but, from their materials, beauty, and struc- ture, never was an artificial scene more beautiful to the eye, nor is any place, for the size of it, so lull of well-design'd and stately palaces, as may be easily concluded by that rarebooke in a large folio which the great virtuoso and paynter Paull Rubens has published, tho' it contains [the description of] only one streete and 2 or 3 churches. The first Palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo del Negros, to which we pass'd by boate acrosse the harbour. Here I could not but observe the sudden and devilish passion of a seaman, who plying us was intercepted by another who interpos'd his boate before him and tooke us in ; for the teares gushing out of his eyes, he put his finger in his mouth and almost bit it off by the joynt, shewing it to his anta- gonist as an assurance to him of some bloudy revenge if ever he came neere that part of the harbour again. Indeed this beautifull Citty is more stayn'd with such horrid acts of revenge and murthers than any one place m Europ, or haply in the world, where there is a political government, which makes it unsafe to strangers. It is made a gaily matter to carry a knife whose point is not broken off. This Palace of Negros is richly furnish'd with the rarest pictures ; on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove of stately trees amongst wh.cn are sheepe, shepherds, and wild beasts, cut very artificially in a grey stone; fountaines, rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one way, you would imagine yourselfe in a wildernesse and silent country • sideways, in the heart of a great citty ; and backwards, in the middsJ ot the sea. All this is within one acre of ground. In the house I noticed those red-plaster flores which are mtde so hard, and kept so polished, that for some time one would take them for whole pieces oi porphyr.e I have frequently wonder'd that we never practic'd this in England for cabinets and rooms of state,' for it appearrfo m^^^^^^^^^^^ » There are such at Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke of Devonshire. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 75 any invention of that kind ; but by their carefull covering them with canvas and fine mattresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they are not lasting in their glory. There are numerous other Palaces of particular curiositys, for the merchands being very rich have, like our neighbours the Hollanders, little or no extent of ground to employ their estates in : as those in pictures and hangings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich furniture. One ot the greatest here for circuit is that of the Prince d'Orias, which reaches from the sea to the sum'it of the mountaines. The house is most magnificently built without, nor less gloriously furnished within, having whole tables ' and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them sett with achates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, turquizes, and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are innumerable. To this Palace belong three gardens, the first whereof is beautified with a terrace, supported by pillars of marble; there is a fountaine of eagles, and one of Neptune with other Sea-gods, all of the purest white marble ; they stand in a most ample basine of the same stone. At the side of this garden is such an aviary as Sir Fra. Bacon describes in his Ser7nones Jidelimn^ or Essays, wherein grow trees of more than two foote diameter, besides cypresse, myrtils, lentiscs, and other rare shrubs, which serve to nestle and pearch all sorts of birds, who have ayre and place enough under their ayrie canopy, supported with huge iron worke, stupendious for its fabrick and the charge. The other two gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons, and pomegranads, fountaines, grotts, and statues ; one of the latter is a Colossal Jupiter, under which is the sepulchre of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family receiv'd of the K. of Spaine 500 crownes a yeare during the hfe of that faithfull animal. The reservoir of water here is a most ad- mirable piece of art ; and so is the grotto over against it. We went thence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is also the Court of Justice ; thence to the Merchants Walke, rarely covered. Neere the Ducal Palace we saw the publiq armoury, which was almost all new, most neatly kept and order'd, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were shew'd many rare inventions and engines of warr peculiar to that armory, as in the state where gunns were first put in use. The garrison of the towne chiefly consists of Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built wholly of polish'd marble, was designed by Rubens, and for statelinesse of the buildings, paving, and evennesse of the streete, is far superior to any in Europ, for the number of houses ; that of Don Carlo d'Orias is a most magnificent structure. In the gardens of the old Marquiss Spinola I saw huge citrons hanging on the trees, apply'd like our apricots to the walls. The Churches are no less 1 One of which. Lass»lls says, weighed 24,000 lbs. 76 THE MOLE AND HARBOUR OF GENOA. DRESS OF THE PEOPLE. splendid than the Palaces : than of St. Francis is wholly built of Parian marble ; St. Lawrence, in the middle of the City, of white and black polish'd stone, the inside wholly incrusted with marble and other pre- cious materials ; on the altar of St. John stand 4 sumptuous columns of porphyry ; and here we were shevv'd an emerald supposed to be one of t)ie largest in the world.^ The Church of St. Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuites will, when finish'd, exceed all the rest. That of the Annunciada, founded at the charges of one family,' in the present and future designe can never be outdone for cost and art. The Mole is a worke of solid huge stone stretching neere 600 paces into the main sea, and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of all the wonders of Italy, for the art and nature of the designe, nothing parallels this.^ We pass'd over to the Pharos, or Lantern, a towre of very great height. Here we tooke horses and made the circuite of the Citty as far as the new wailes would let us ; they are built of a prodigious height, and with Herculanean industry, witnesse those vast pieces of whole mountaines which they have hewn away, and blown up with gunpowder, to render them steepe and inaccessible. They are not much lesse than'' 20 Eng- lish miles in extent, reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the Citty. From one of these promontories we could easily discern the Island of Corsica ; and from the same. Eastward, we saw a Vale having a great torrent running thro' a most desolate barren country ; and then turning our eyes more Nortliward we saw those delicious Villas of St. Pietro d'Arena, which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire- ments of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much paine, we de- scended towards the Arsenale, where the gallys lie in excellent order. The inhabitants of this City are much affected to the Spanish mode and stately garbe.* From the narrowness of the streetes they use sedans and litters, and not coaches. 19 Oct. We embarqued in a filuca for Ligorne [Leghorn], but the sea running very high we put in at Porta Venere, which we made with peril, between 2 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with great velocity ; but we were soone delivered into as great a calme and a most ample harbour, being the Golpho di Spetia. From hence we 1 Lassclls calls It a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour ate the Paschal Lamb with his Disciples ; but he adds that he finds no authority for it in any ancient writer, and that Venerable Bcde writes that the dish used by our Saviour was of silver. Of an au- thentic relic of St.John he observes that Baronius writes credibly. • iu° "^'"^'i Loniellini, allow the third part of their gains. Lassells. • Ihe Break-water now (1816) forming at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work. • Lassells says, finished in iS months, and yet 6 miles in compass. «> Ihus described by Lassells: broad hats without hatbands, broad leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow brilches with long-waisted doublets and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go i.n guard infanta s (child preserrcrs) ; that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which being put about the waiste of the lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with her ^nds. bear out her coats in such a manner that she appears to be as broad as long. The men Hx.hiv Lr '""^ '''^^ '^''^^ ^ncieatly danced the Hobby horse 10 country mummings. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 77 could see Pliny's Delphini P7-omo7itorimn^ now call'd Cap fine. Here stood that famous City of Luna, whence the Port was named Lunaris^ being about 2 leagues over, more resembhng a lake than an haven, but defended by castles and excessive high mountaines. We landed at Larici, where, being Sunday, was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the streetes in solemn devotion. After dinner we took post horses, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but aftewards pleasant. We passed thro' the townes of wSarazana and Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and lodged in an obscure inn at a place called Viregio. The next morning we ariv'd at Pisa, where I met my old friend Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come out of Spaine, and from whose company I never parted till more than a yeare after. The City of Pisa is as much worth seeing as any in Italy ; it has con- tended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, Sicily, and even Carthage. The Palace and Church of St. Stephano (where the order of knighthood called by that name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside thereof being altogether of polish'd marble ; within it is full of tables relating to this order ; over which hang divers banners and pendants, with other trophies taken by them from the Turkes, against whom they are particularly oblig'd to figlit } tho' a religious order, they are per- mitted to marry. At the front of the Palace stands a fountaine, and the statue of the greate Duke Cosmo. The Campanile, or Settezonio, built by John Venipont, a German, consists of several orders of pillars, 30 in a row, design'd to be much higher. It stands alone on the right side of the Cathedrall, strangely remarkable for this, that the beholder would expect it to f^ill, being built exceedingly declining, by a rare addresse of the architect ; and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle a good geometrician. The Domo, or Cathedrall, standing neere it, is a superb structure, beautified with 6 columns of greate antiquity ; the gates are of brasse, of admirable workmanship. The Cemetere cal'd Campo Santo is made of divers gaily ladings of earth formerly brought from Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature as to consume dead bodies in fourty houres. 'Tis cloistred with marble arches ; here lies buried the learned Philip Decius who taught in this University. At one side of this Church stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessell which hereto- fore contain'd the tribute paid yearly by the Citty to Caesar. It is plac'd, as I remember, on a pillar of opilestone, with divers other antiq urnes. Neere this, and in the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built of pure white marble and cover'd with so artificial a cupola that the voice uttered under it seemes to breake out of a cloud. The font and pulpit supported by 4 lyons is of inestimable value for the precious- nesse of the materials. The place where these buildings stand they call the Atea. Hence we went to the Colledge, to which joynes a 78 PISA ; PENDANT TOWER. LIGORNE : THE SLAVE MARKET. Gallery so furnish'd with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells, dry-'d animals, skelletons, &c. as is hardly to be seen in Italy. To this the Phyjiq Garden lyes, where is a noble palm-tree and very fine water workes. The river Arno runs through the middle of this stately Citye, whence the streete is named Longarno. It is so ample that the Duke's gallys, built in the Arsenal here, are easily conveyed to Livorno ; over the river is an arch, the like of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is no where in Europ. The Duke has a stately Palace, before which is placed the statue of Ferdinand the Third ; over against it is the Exchange, built of marble. Since this Citty came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany it has been much depopulated, tho' there is hardly in Italy any which exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it i? low and flat, but the inhabitants have spacious gardens and even fields within the walls. 21 Oct. We tooke coach to Livorno, thro' the Great Duke's new Parke full of huge corke-trees, the underwood all myrtils, amongst which were many buffalos feeding, a kmd of wild ox, short-nos'd, with homes revers'd ; those who worke with them com'and them as our bearewards do the beares, with a ring thro' the nose, and a cord. Much of this Parke, as well as a greate parte of the country about it, is very fenny, and the ayre very bad. Ligorne is the prime Port belonging to all the Duke's territories ; heretofore a very obscure Towne, but since Duke Ferdinand has strongly fortified it (after the modern way), has drain'd the marshes by cutting a channell thence to Pisa navigable i6 miles, and has rais'd a Mole, emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is become a place of great receipt : it has also a place for the gallys, where they lye safe. Before the sea is an ample Piazza for the market, where are the statues in copper of the fovyer slaves, much exceeding the life for pro- portion, and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best pieces of modern worke.' Here, especialy in this Piazza, is such a concourse of slaves, Turkes, Mores, and other nations, that the number and confu- sion is prodigious ; some buying, others selling, others drinking, others playing, some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably chayn'd. Here was a tent, where any idle fellow might stake his liberty against a few crownes, at dice or other hazard, and, if he lost, he was immediately chayn'd and led away to the gallys, where he was to serve a tearm of yeares, but from whence they seldom return 'd : many sottish persons in a drunken bravado would try their fortune in this way. The houses of this neatc Towne are very uniforme, and excellently payntcd a fresca on the outer walls with representations of many of their victories over the Turkes. The houses, though low on account 1 They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed it themselves, butweio tak«o in this great enterprise. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 79 cf the earthquakes which frequently happen here (as did one during my being in Italy) are very well built ; the Piazza is very fayre and com'odious, and with the Church whose 4 columns at the portico are of black marble polish'd, gave the first hint to the building both of the Church and Piazza in Covent Garden with us, tho' ver>' imper- fectly persu'd. 22 Oct. From Livorno I took coach to Empoly, where we lay, and the next day ariv'd at Florence, being recommended to the house of Sig. Baritiere, in the Piazza dal Spirito Santo, where we were ex- ceedingly well treated. Florence is at the foot of the Appenines, the West part full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified with more than a thousand houses and country palaces of note, belonging to gentlemen of the towne. The river Arno runs through this Citty, in a broad but very shallow channell, dividing it, as it were, in the middle ; and over it are fower most sumptuous bridges of stone. On that nearest to oar quarter are the 4 Seasons in white marble ; on another are the goldsmiths shops ; at the head of the former stands a column of opite on which is a statue of Justice with her balance and sword, cut out of porphyrie, and the more remarkable for being the first which had been carved out of that hard material, and brought to perfection after the art had been utterly lost ; they say this was done by hardening the tools in the juice of certaine herbs. This statue was erected in that corner because there Cosmo was first saluted with the newes of Sienna being taken. Neere this is the fiimous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely piece of archi- tecture, in a rusn'q manner. The Palace of Pitti was built by that family, but of late greatly beautified by Cosmo with huge square stones of the Doric, Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a tenace at each side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that ends in a cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a vista to the gardens. Nothing is more admirable than the vacant stayrecase, marbles, statues, urnes, pictures, courte, grotto, and waterworkes. In the quadrangle is a huge jetto of water in a volto of 4 faces, with noble statues at each square, especialy the Diana of porphyrie above the grotto. We were here shew'd a prodigious greate load-stone. The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, aviaries, vivaries, fountaines, especialy one of five jettos, the middle basin being one of the longest stones I ever saw. Here is every thing to make such a paradise delightfull. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an orange-tree. There was much topiary worke, and columns in architec- ture about the hedges. The Duke has added an ample laboratorye, over against which stands a Fort on a hill where they told us his trea- sure is kept. In this Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss guards, after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what he can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very house, v/icker Ho FLORENCE ; THE BUILDINGS AND ART TREASURES PHERli. bottles dangling over even the chiefe entrance into the Palace, servini; for a vintner's bush. In the church oi Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary are most ricK full 01 precious stones ; there are 4 pillars 01 a kind of serpentine, and some of blue. Hence we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called Palazzo Vecchio, before which is a statue of David by Michael Angelo, and one of Hercules killing Cacus, the work of Baccio Bandinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the Corinthian order, and in the hall are many rare marbles, as those of Leo the Tenth and Clement VII. both Popes of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo in rare painting. In the Chapell is kept (as they would make one believe) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his owne hand ; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and divers precious stones. Neere it is another pendant Towre like that at Pisa, always threatning ruine. Under the Court of Justice is a stately Arcade for men to walke in. and over that the shops of divers rare artists who continualy worke for che great Duke. Above this is that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or Repo- sitory, wherein are hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and mettal, vases of porphyrie, &c. ; but amongst the statues none so famous as the ocipio, Boare, the Idol of Apollo brought from the Del- phic Temple, and two triumphant columnes. Over these hang the pictures of the most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or armes, to the number of 300, taken out of the Museum of Paulus Jovius. They then led us into a large square roome in the middle of which stood a Cabinet of an octangular forme, so adorn'd and fur- nish'd with christals, achat, sculptures, &c. as exceeds any description This cabinet is called the Tribuna^ and in it is a pearle as big as a hazale nut.' The cabinet is of ebonie, lazuli, and jasper ; over the door is a round of M. Angelo ; in the cabinet, Leo the Tenths with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, Perugino, and Correggio, viz. a St. John, a Virgin^ a Boy, 2 Apostles ^ 2 Heads of Durer rarely carved. Over this cabinet is a Globe of ivory, excellently carved ; the Labours of Hercules in massy silver, and many incomparable pictures in small. There is another, which had about it 8 oriental columns of alabaster, on each whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, covcr'd with a canopy so richly set with precious stones that they resembled a firma- ment of Starrs. Within it was our Saviour's Passion and 12 Apostles in amber. This cabinet was valued at two hundred thousand crownes. In another, with Calcidon pillars, was a series of golden medaills. Here is alw another rich ebony Cabinet cupola'd with a tortoise-shell and containing a collection of gold medaills esteem'd worth 50,000 crownes ; a wreathed pillar of oriental alabaster, divers paintings ol 1 Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, now (1816) in his house in Bnilon-strcet, on whose dress arc represented pctrls of such a size as to make tlie one here spokvn of very insigniiiciuu. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 81 Da Vinci, Fontorno, del Sarto, an Ecce Ho7no of Titian, a Boy of Bron- zini, &c. Tliey shew'd us a branch of corall fixed on the rock whicli Ihey afrirme dos still grow. In another roome is kept the Tabernacle appointed for the Chapel of St, Lawrence, about which are placed small statues of Saints, of precious materials ; a piece of such art and cost, that, having been these 40 years in perfecting, it is one of the most curious things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra Comessa, which is a marble ground inlay'd with several! sorts of marbles and stones of various colours, representing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and landskips. In one is represented the town of Ligorne by the same hand who inlay'd the altar of St. Lawrence, Domenico Benotti. I purchased of him 19 pieces of the same worke tor a cabinet. In a presse neere this they shew'd an yron nayle, one halfe whereof being converted into gold by one Thornhcuser, a German chymist, is look'd on as a greate rarity, but it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. There is a curious watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as an egg, on which is carved an emperor's head. In the Armory are kept manyantiq habits, as those of Chinese kings; the sword of Charlcmain ; Hannibal's head-piece ; a loadstone of a yard long, which bears up 86 lbs. weight, in a chaine of 17 hnks, surh as the slaves are tied to. In another roome are such rare tourneries in ivory as are not to be described for their curiosity. There is a faire pillar of oriental alabaster; 12 vast and compleate services ot silver plate, and one of gold, all of excellent workmanship ; a rich embrodred saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke ; and here is that embrodred chaire set with precious stones in which he sits, when, on St. John's Day, he receives the tribute of the Citties. 25 Oct. We went to the Portico where the famous statues of Judith and Holofernes stand, also the Medusa, all of copper ; but what is most admirable is the Rape of a Sabine with another man under foot, the confusion and turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one entire marble, the worke of John di Bologna, and is most stupen- dous ; this stands directly against the greate Piazza, where, to adorne one tountaine, are erected four marble statues and eight of brasse, representing Neptune and his family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magni- tude, w-ith tour sea-horses in Parian marble of Lamedrati ; this is ii; the midst of a very great basin, a work, I think, hardly to be parallel'd. Here is also the famous statue of David by M. Angelo ; Hercules and Cacus by Baccic Bandinelli ; the Perseus in copper by Benevento, and the Judith of DonatelH, which stand publickly before the old palace with the Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Neere this stands Cosmo di Medici on horseback, in brasse on a pedistal of marble, and four copper bass relievos by John di Bologna, with divers inscriptions ; the Ferdinand the First on horseback is of Pietro Tacca. The brazen Boare which serves ior another publiq fountaine is admirable. 6 82 THE CAVALERIZZO OF FLORENCE. PIAZZA OF THE COURT. After dinner we went to the church of Annunciata, where the Duke and his Court were at their devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute for sanctity ; for here is a shrine that dos greate miracles, [proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering almost the walles of the whole church. This is the image of Gabriel who saluted the Bl. Virgin, and which the artist finished so well that he was in despaire of performing the Virgin's face, whereupon it was miraculously don for him whilst he slept ; but others say it was painted by St. Luke him- selfe. Whoever it was, infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar is set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted by thirty greate silver lamps. There are innumerable other pictures by rare masters. Our Saviour's passion in brasse tables inserted in marble is the worke of John di Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. To this church joynes a Convent whose cloister is painted in fresca very rarely. There is also neere it an Hospital for looo persons, with nurse children, and several other charitable accom'odations. At the Duke's Cavalerizzo, the Prince has a stable of the finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, Gennets, English, &c. which are continualy exercis'd in the ma?iege. Nere this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, as wolves, catts, beares, tygers, and lions. They are loose in a deep wall'd court, and therefore to be seene with more pleasure than at the Tower of London, in their grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height to catch ajoynt of mutton which I caused to be hung downe. ' There are many playne brick towers erected for defence when this [Sienna] was a free state. The highest is called the Mangio, standing at the foote of the Piazza, which we went first to see after our arival. At the entrance of this tower is a Chapel, open towards the Piazza, of marble well adorn'd with sculpture. On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, well built a la moderna of brick ; indeed the bricks of Sienna are so well made that they look almost as well as porphyrie itselfe, having a kind of na- tural polish. In the Senate House is a very faire hall where they sometimes en- tertain the people with publiq shews and operas as they call them. Towards the left are the statues of Romulus and Remus with the Wolt, all of brasse, plac'd on a columne of ophite stone which they report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. These en- signes being the armes of the towne, are set up in divers of the streetes and publiq wayes both within and far without the citty. The Piazza compasses the faciata of the Court and Chapel, and being made with descending steps, much resembles the figure of an escalop shell. The white ranges of pavement intermix'd with the excellent bricks above mentioned, with which the town is generally well-paved, There seem, to be an omission in the MS. as to their le;^ving Florence and going to Sienna. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 83 render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it is) are many faire palaces, though not built with excesse of elegance. There stands an Arch the worke of Baltazar di Sienna, built with wonderful! inge- nuity so that it is not easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some imperceptible contignations which do not betray themselves easily to the eye. On the edge of the Piazza is a goodly fountaine beautified with statues, the water issuing out of the wolves mouths, being the worke of Jacobo Quercei, a famous artist. There are divers other pub- liq fountaines in the Citty, of good designe. The Sapienza is the University, or rather Colledg, where the High Germans enjoy many particular privileges when they addict themselves 10 the Civil Law. This place has produced many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alexander, Pius the Ilnd and the Ilird of that name the learned ^neas Sylvius, and both were of the antient house of the Piccolomini. The chiefe streete is called Strada Romana, in which Pius the Ilnd has built a most stately Palace of square stone with an incom- parable portico joyning neere to it. The towne is com'anded by a Castle which hath four bastions and a garison of souldiers. Neere it is a List to ride horses in, much frequented by gallants in summer. Not far from hence is the Church and Convent 01 the Dominicans, where in the Chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna they shew her head, the rest of her body being translated to Rome. The Domo or Cathe- dral, both without and within, is of large square stones of black and white marble polish'd, of inexpressible beauty, as is the front adorn'd with sculpture and rare statues. In the middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry streaked colour'd marble. About the body oi the Church on a cornice within, are inserted the heads of all the Popes. The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a piece of exquisite worke ; but what exceeds all description is the pavement, where (besides the various emblemes and other figures in the nave) the quire is wrought with the History of the Bible, so artificialy expressed in the natural co- lours of the marbles that few pictures exceede it. Here stands a Christo rarely cut in marble, and on the large high Altar is a brasen vessell of admirable invention and art. The organs are exceeding sweete and well tun'd. On the left side of the altar is the Library, where are painted the acts of ^neas Sylvius and others by Raphael. They shew'd us an armc of St. John the Baptist, wherewith, they say, he baptized our Saviour in Jordan ; it was given by the King of Peloponesus to one of the Popes, as an inscription signifies. They also have St. Peter's Sword, with which he smote off the ear of Malchus. Just against the Cathedral we went into the Hospital, where they entertain and refresh for three or lour days, gratis, such pilgrimes as go to Rome. In the Chapel belonging to it lies the body of St. Suso- rius their founder, as yet uncorrupted though dead many hundreds of 34 SIENNA ; MONT OLIVETO ; MUSCATELLO ; MONTE PIENTIO. yeares. They show one of the nailes which pierced our Saviour, and St. Chrysostom's Comment on the Gospel written by his owne hand. Below the hill stands the pool called Fonte Brande, where fish are fed for pleasure more than foode. St. Francis's Church is a large pile, neere which, yet a little without the Citty, growes a tree which they report in their legend grew from the Saint's staff, which on going to sleepe he fix'd in the ground, and at his waking found it had grown a large tree. They af(irme that the wood of it in decoction cures sundry diseases. 2 Nov. We went from Sienna, desirous of being present at the Ca- valcade of the new Pope Innocent X.' who had not yet made the grand procession to St. John de Lateran. We set out by Porto Romano, the country all about the towne being rare for hunting and game. Wild boare and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many of the townes about it. We pass'd neere Mont Oliveto, where the Monastrie of that Order is pleasantly situated and worth seeing. Passing over a bridg, which by the inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, we went through Buon-Conventa, famous for the death of the Emperor Hen. VII. who was here poison'd in the holy Eucharist. Thence we came to Tormiero, where we din'd. This village is in a swcete vally in view of Monte Alcini, famous for the rare Muscatello wine. After three miles more we go by St. Querico, and lay at a pri- vat Osteria neere it, where, after we were provided of lodging came in Cardinal Doughi, a Genoese by birth, now come from Rome ; he was so civil as to entertaine us with greate respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us, he had been once in our country. Amongst other discourse he related how a dove was seen to sit on the chayre in the Conclave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he magnified as a greate good omen, with other particulars which we enquir'd of him, till our suppers parted us. He came in great state with his owne bed- stead and all the furniture, yet would by no meanes suffer us to resigns the roome we had taken up in the lodging before his arival. Next morning we rod by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte Man- tuamiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon peeping above nnyclowds with its snowy head, till we had climbed to the inn at Radi- cofany built by Ferdinand the greate Duke for the necessary refresh- ment of travellers in so inhospitable a place. As we ascended we en- tered a very thick, solid, and dark body of cloudes, which look'd like rocks at a little distance, which lasted neere a mile in going up ; they were dry misty vapours, hanging undissolved for a vast thicknesse, and obscuring both the sun and earth, so that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in the cloudes, till, having pierced through it we came int ) a most serene heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation. * Jolin Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in Oct. 1644, died in 1655. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 85 the mountain appearing more like a greate island than joyn'd to any other hills, for we could perceive nothing but a sea of thick cloudes rowling under our feete like huge waves, every now and then suffering ihe top of some other mountaine to peepe through, which we could dis- cover many miles off : and betweene some breaches of the cloudes we could see landskips and villages of the subjacent country. This was one of the most pleasant, newe, and altogether surprizing objects that I had ever beheld. On the sum'it of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a very strong Fort, garrison'd, and somewhat beneath it is a small Towne ; the pro- visions are drawne up with ropes and engines, the precipice being other- wise inaccessible. At one end of the towne lie heapes of rocks so strangely broaken off from the ragged mountaine as would affright one with their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the Inn gushed out a plentifuU and most useful fountaine, which falls into a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tuscany's armes. Here we din'd, and I with my black lead pen tooke the prospect.' It is one of the utmost confines of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's Patrimony since the gift of Matilda to Gregory 7, as they say. Here we passe a stone bridg built by Pope Gregory XIV. and thence immediately to Aquapendente,'"* a town situated on a very ragged rock, down which precipitates an intire river with a horrid roaring noise. From this river it has its name. We lay at the Post-house, on which is this inscription : " L'Insegna della Posta, € posta a posta, In questa posta, fin che habbia sua posta Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta." Before it was darke vve went to seethe Monastery of the Franciseans, famous for 6 learned Popes and sundry other great scholars, especialy the renowned physician and anatomist Fabricius de Aquapendente, who was bred and borne here. 4 Nov. After a little riding we descend towards the Lake of Bol- sena, which being above 20 miles in circuit yields from hence a most iiicomparable prospect. Neere the middle of it are 2 small islands, in one of which is a Convent of melancholy Capucines, where those of the Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis Lacus, and lalks of divers floting islands about it, but they did not appear to us. The Lake is environ'd with mountaines, at one of whose sides we pass'd towards the towne Bolsena, anciently Vuisinium, famous in those times, as is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. Chris- tiana's Church, the urne, altar, and jasper columns. After 7 miles riding, passing thro' a wood heretofore sacred to Juno, we came to Monte Fiascone, the head of the Falisci a famous people • An etching of it, with others, is in the Library at Woilon. > 13 miles from the Duke's Inn, accordmg to Lassells. 86 THE DUTCH BISHOP. FALERNUM. ARRIVE AT ROME. in old time, heretofore Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, as now for the storv of the Dutch Bishop, who lyes buried in Faviano's. Church with this epitaph : " Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est." Because having ordered his servant to ride before, enquire where the best wine was, and there write Est^ the man found some so good that he wrote Est^ Est, and the Bishop drinking too much of it died. From hence we travell a plain and pleasant champain to Viterbo, which presents itselfe with much state afarr off, in reguard of her many- lofty pinnacles and toweres ; neither dos it deceive our expectation, for it is exceedingly beautified with publiq fountaines, especialy that at the entrance which is all of brasse and adorn'd with many rare figures, and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable object and refreshing waters. There are many Popes buried in this Citty, and in the Palace is this odd inscription : — " Osiridis victoriam in Gigantes iitteris histoiiographicis in hoc antiquissimo marmore inscriptam, ey Herculis olim, nunc Divi Laurentij Templo translatam, ad conversam : vetustiss : patriae monu- menta atq' decora hie locandum statuit S. P. O. V. Under it : Sum Osiris Rex Jupi- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui ter universo in ter- ab Italia in Gigantes terrarum pacato Ita- rarum orbe. exercit u veni, vidi, et liam decem a'nos vici. quorum inventor fui." Neere the towne is a sulphureous fountaine which continualy boils. After dinner we tooke horse by the new way of Capranica, and so passing near Mount Ciminus and the Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome, at which sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon allay'd by so violent a shower which fell just as we were con- templating that proud mistress of the world, and descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we entered), that before we got into the Citty I was wet to the skin. I came to Rome on the 4 Nov. 1644, about 5 at night, and being perplexed for a convenient lodging wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one conducted us to Mons. Petit's, a Frenchman, near the Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and having bargained with my host for 20 crovvnes a moneth I caused a good fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so very wet. The next morning (for I was resolved to spend no time idly here) I got acquainted with several per- sons who had long lived in Rome. 1 was especialy recommended to Father John, a Benedictine monke and Superior of his Order for the English College of Douay, a person of singular learning, rehgion, and humanity ; also to Mr. Patrick Carey, an Abbot, brother to our learned Lord Falkland, a witty young priest who afterwards came over to our THE DIARY OF }OHN EVELYN. 87 Church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs,' physicians who had dependence on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excellent poet ; Father Cortnee, the Chiefe of the Jesuites in the English CoUedge ; my Lord of Somerset brother to the Marquiss of Worcester, and some others, from whom I received instructions how to behave in towne, with direc- tions to masters and bookes to take in search of the antiquities, churches, collections, &c. Accordingly the next day, Nov. 6th, I began to be very pragmatical?' In the first place our Sights-ma7i '^ (for so they name certain per- sons here who get their living by leading strangers about to see the City) went to the Palace Farnezi, a magnificent square structure, built by Michael Angelo of the 3 orders of columns after the ancient man- ner, and when Architecture was but newly recovered from the Gotic barbarity. The court is square and tarrass'd, having two payre of staires, which leade to the upper roomes, and conducted us to that famous gallery painted by Agostino Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art ; so deepe and well-studied are all the figures, that it would require more judgment than I confesse I had, to deter- mine whether they were flat or emboss'd. Thence we passed into another painted in chiaro osciiro^ representing the fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a place that has no extent of ground back- wards. The greate Hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnish'd with statues, one of which being modern is a figure of one of the Farnese in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy of admira* tion. Here we were shewed the Museum of Fulvius Ursinos replete with innumerable collections ; but the Major Domo being absent, we could not at this time see all we had a desire to see. Descending into the court we with astonishment contemplated the 2 statues of Hercules and Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny. There is a modern statue of Hercules and two Gladiators not to be despis'd. In a second court ivas a temporary shelter of boards over the most stupendous and never to be sufficiently admir'd Torso of Amphion and Dirces, represented in 5 figures exceeding the life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the contending work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and Taurisco in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire stone, and remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all the marbles of the world for its 1 James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many years at Rome, where he died in 1677, and was buried in the Pantheon thare with an epitaph to his memory under a marble bust of him. He was an extraordinary character. In Wood's Atheiux is a long account of him, and also some curious particulars in Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst. He was a great writer of Latin Poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, to which is prefixed his portrait neatly engraved. . • u v 2 Mr. Evelyn must intend this in a good sense, very active and full of busmess, viz. what he came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of Rome, both ancient and modern. 3 The present name for these gentlemen i.« with the Italians a Cicerone, but they affect urn. ^•really the title of Antiquaries, 88 THE. ROMAN TEMPLES, TRIUMPHAL ARCHES, COLUMNS, ETC antiquity and workmanship. There are divers other heads and busts. At the entrance of this stately Palace stands 2 rare and vast fountaines ol garnito stone, brought into this Piazza out of Titus's Bathes. Here in sum'er the gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in their coaches and on foote. At the sides of this court we vissited the Palace of Sign. Pichini, who has a good collection of antiquities, especialy the Adonis of Parian marble, which my Lord Arundel would once have purchas'd if a greatc price would have been taken for it. 7 Nov. We went into the Campo Vaccino by the mines of the Temple of Peace built by Titus Vespasianus, thought to be the largest, as well as the most richly furnish'd, of all the Roman dedi' cated places ; it is now an heape rather than a temple, yet the roofe and volto continue firme, shewing it to have been formerly of incom- parable workmanship. This goodly structure was, none knows how, consum'd by hre the very night, by all computation, that our Saviour was born. Hence we passed by the place into which Curtius precipitated him- self for the love of his country, now without any sign of a lake or vorago. Neere this stand some columns of white marble, of exquisite uorke, supposed to be part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans built by Augustus ; the worke of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are 3 other of Jupiter ??ator. Opposite to these are the Oratories or Churches of St. Cosmo and Damiano, heretofore the Temples of Romulus and Remus, a pretty odd fabriq, with a Tribunal, or Tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates before it are brasse, and the whole much obliged to Pope Urban the 8th. Here lie the bodies of those 2 Martyrs ; and in a Chapel on the right hand is a rare painting of Cavaliero Baylione, We lext entered St. Laurenzo in Miranda. The portico is supported by a • ange of most stately columns ; the inscription cut in the architrave shews it to have been the Temple of Faustina. It is now made a faire Church, and has an Hospital which joines it. On the same side is St. Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturne. Before this was once placed a Miliary Column, supposed to be set in the center of the Citty, from whence they us'd to compute the distance of all the citties and places of note under the dominion of those universal Monarchs. To this Church are likewise brazen gates and a noble front. Just opposite they shew'd us heapes and ruines of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went towards Mons Capitolinus, at the foote of which stands the Arch of Septimius Severus, full and entire, save where the pedestal and some of the lower members are choaked up with ruines and earth. This Arch is exceed- ingly inrich'd with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In the terrestrial and naval battailes here graven is seen the Roman Aries fthe battering-ram]. This was the first triumphal arch set up in Rome. The Capitol, to which we climbed by very broad steps, is bui'it about a THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. square court, at the right hand of which going up from Campo Vaccino gushes a plentiful! strcame from the statue of Tybur in porphyr}^ very antiq, and another representing Rome ; but above all is the admirable ligure of Marforius casting water into a most ample Concha. The front of this court is crowned with an excellent fabriq containing the Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and others. In one of the Halls they shew the statues of Gregory XIII. and Paule III. with several others. To this joynes a handsome Tower, the whole faciata adorn'd with noble statues both on the outside and on the bat- tlements, ascended by a double payre of staires, and a stately Posario. In the center of the court stands that incomparable Horse bearing the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the life, of Corinthian mettal, placed on a pedestal of marble, esteemed one of the noblest pieces of worke now extant, antique and very lare. There is also a vast Head of a Colossean magnitude, of white marble, fixed in the wall. At the descending stayres are sett two Horses of white marble governed by 2 naked Slaves, taken to be meant for Castor and Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balustrade the Trophies of Marius against the Cimbrians, very ancient and instructive. At the foote of the stepps towards the left hand is that Colonna Miliaria with the globe of brasse on it, mention'd to have been formerly sett in Campo Vaccino. On the same hand is the Palace of the Segniori Conservatori, or 3 Consuls, now the Civil Governors of the Citty, containing the Fraternities or Halls (or Guilds, as we call them) of sundry Companys, and other officers of state. Under the Portico within, are the statues of Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In a smaller court are the statue of Constantine on a fountaine, a Minerva's head of brasse, and that of Com'odus to which belongs an hand the thumb of which is at least an ell long, but the rest of the Colosse is lost. In the corner oi this Court stand an horse and lyon fighting, as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valu'd ; likewise the Rape of the Sabines ; 2 cumbent figures of Alexander and Mammea ; 2 monstrous feete of a Colosse of Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and the Standard, or antiq measure of the Roman foote. Ascending by the stepps of the other corner, are inserted fower basse relievo's, the triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which last, for the antiquity and rareness of the worke, I :aused my painter Carlo Neapolitano to copy. There are also 2 statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian the Emperor ; above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsias bound to a tree ; all o\ them excellent and antique. Above, in the Lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws on brasse call'd the 12 Tables; a fair e Madona of Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall ; neere which are the Archives full of ancient records. In the great Hall are divers excellenl paintings of Cavaiicro Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brasse of Sixtus 90 THE CAPITAL ; ARA CCELI. TARPEIAN ROCK. V. and of Leo X. of marble. In another Hall are many modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set about with fine antique heads ; others are painted by excellent masters, representing the actions of M. Scaevola, Horatius Codes, &c. — The room where the Conservatori now feast on solemn days is tapisstred with crimson damasq embrodred with gold, haveing a state or balduquino of crimson velvet very rich, the frieze above rarely painted. Here are ir. brasse, Romulus and Remus sucking the wolfe, with the shepherd Faustulus by them ; also the Boy plucking the th rne out of his foote (in brasse) so much admir'd by artists. There are also holy statues and heads of saints. In a Gallery neere adjoyning are the names of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so celebrated by the learned ; also the figure of an old woman ; 2 others representing Poverty ; and more in fragments. In another large roome furnish'd with velvet are the statue of Adonis very rare, and divers antiq heads. In the next chamber is an old statue of Cicero, one of another Consul, an Hercules in brasse, 2 women's heads of incomparable worke, six other statues, and over the chimny a very rare basso relievo and other figures. In a little Lobby before the Chapell is the statue of Hanniball, a Bacchus very antiq, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with other old heads. All these noble statues, &c. belong to the Citty, and cannot be dispos'd of to any privat person or remov'd hence, but are prescrv'd for the honor of the place, thcugh greate sumes have been offcr'd for them by divers grcate Princes lovers of art and antiquity. We now left the Capitol, certainely one of the most renowned places in the world, even as now built by the designe of the famous M. An..:elo. Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by more than lOO marble stepps, not in devotion, as I observed some to do on their bare knees, but to see those two famous statues of Constantine in white marble, placed there out of his Bathes. In this Church is a Madoiia^ reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on which we saw the print of a foote which they affirme to have been that of the Angel, scene on the Castle of St. Angclo. Here the feast of our blessed Saviour's nativity being yearely celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and Fountaine at the other side of the stayres, we return'd weary to our lodgings. Oil the 7th we went again towards the Capitol, towards theTarpeian rock, whence it has a goodly prospect of the Tyber. Thence descend- ing by the Tullianum, where they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, they shew'd us a Chapell in which a rocky side of it beares the impres- sion of his face. In the nave of the Church gushes a fountaine which they say was caused by the Apostle's prayers, when having converted some of his fellow-captives he wanted water to baptize them. We then walked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, and thence to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding 40,000 spectators, now a heap of THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 91 mines converted into gardens. Then by the Forum Boarium, wheie they have a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruines of his Temple remaining. The Temple of Janus quadrifrontis, having 4 arches importing the 4 Seasons, and on each side niches for the Mo- nethes, is still a sybstantial and pretty entire antiquity. Neere this is the Arcus Argentariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber we went into the Theater of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 persons, built by Augustus and dedicated to his nephew ; the architecture trom what remaincs appeares to be inferior to none. It is now wholly converted into the house of the Savelli, one ot the old Roman tamilies. The people were now generally busye in erecting temporary triumphs and arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his HoHnesse's grand procession to St. John de Lateran, amongst which the Jewes also began one in testimony of gratitude for their protection under the Papal State. The Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's Architect, Ca- valiero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely an object as any moderne building in Europ. It has a double Portico, at the end of which we ascended by 2 paire of oval stayres all of stone and voide in the well. One of these led us into a stately Hall, the volto whereof was newly painted a fresca by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini di Cortona. To this is annex'd a Gallery compleately furnish'd with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a Library full of worthy collections, medails, marbles, and manuscripts, but above all an Egyp- tian Osyris, remarkable for the material being unknown and for its antiquity. In one of the rooms neere this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a copy little inferior to the prototype ; a table in my judgment superior to any thing I had seen in Rome. In the Court is a vast broaken GuHo Obe- lisk having divers hieroglyphics cut on it. 8 Nov. We visited the Jesuites Church, the front whereof is esteem'd a noble piece of architecture, the designe of Jacomo della Porta and the famous Vignola. In this Church lies the body ot their renown'd Ignatius Loyola, an arme of Xaverius, their other Apostle, and at the right end of their high altar their Champion Card : Bellar- mine. Father Kircherus (professor of Mathematics and of the Oriental tongues) shew'd us many singular courtesies, leading us into their Refectory, Dispensatory, Laboratory, Gardens, and finally (through an Hall hung round with pictures of such of their order as had been executed for their pragmatical and buisy adventures) into his own study, where, with Dutch patience, he shew'd us his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical experiments, models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most of them since published by himselfe or his industrious scholar Schotti. Returning home we view'd the Palazzo de Medici, which was a house of the Duke of Florence, neere our lodging, on the brow of 92 STATUES OF NIOCE. ORATORY OF PHIL. NERIUS AND LENNIAS, Mons Pincius, having a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. Il is a magnificent, strong building, having a substruction very remark- able, and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, with two huge lions of marble at the end of the balustrade. The whole out- side of the faciata is incrusted with antiq and rare basse-relieves and stritues. Descending into the garden is a noble fountaine govern'd by a Mercury of brasse. At a little distance on the left is a lodge full of fine statues, amongst which the Sabines is antiq and singularly rare. In the arcado neere this stand 24 statues of great price, and hard by is a mount planted with cypresses representing a fortresse, with a goodly fountaine in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with white mar1:)lc, covered over with the natural shrubbs, ivy, and other pe- rennial greenes, divers statues and heads being placed as in niches. At a little distance are those fam'd statues of Niobe and her family, in all 15, as large as the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed among the best pieces of worke in the world for the passions they expresse, and all other perfections of that stupendous art. There is in this garden a faire obelisq full of hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountaine before the front casts water neere 50 foote in height when it is received in a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the greate-horse every morning, which gave me much diversion from the terrace of my owne chamber, where I could see all their motions. This evening I was invited to heare rare musiq at the Chiesa Nova ; the black marble pillars within led us to that most precious Oratory of Philippus Nerius their founder, they being of the oratory of secular priests, under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, as the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix j the Visitation of Elizabeth; the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin; Christo Sepolto of Guido Rheno, Caravagio, Arpino, and others. This faire Church consists of 14 altars and as many chapells. In it is buried (besides their Saint) Caesar Baronius the greate annalist. Through this we went into the Sacristia, where, the tapers being lighted, one of the Order preach'd ; after him stcpp'd up a child of 8 or 9 >ears old who pronounced an oration with so much grace, that I never was better pleas'd than to heare Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This course it secmes they frequently use, to bring their scholars to a iiabit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action and assurance, which none so much want as ours in England. This being finish'd began their Motcttos, which, in a lofty cupola richly painted, were sung by eunuchs and other rare voices, accompanied with theorbos, harpsicors, and viols, so that we were even ravish'd with the enter- tainment of the evening. This roome is painted by Cortona, and has in it two figures in the niches, and the Church stands in one of the most stately strcetes of Rome. 10 Nov. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa where was for- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 93 merly the Viridariiim of the poet SalUist. The house is very mag- nificent, and the extent of the ground is exceeding large considering that it is in a Citty ; in every quarter of the garden are antiq statues, and walkes planted with cypresse. To this garden belongs a house oi retirement built in the figure of a crosse after a particular ordonance, especially the stayrecase. The whitenesse and smoothnesse of the par- geting was a thing I much observ'd, being almost as even and polish'd as if it had been marble. Above is a faire prospect of the Citty. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of Bassano, the one a Vulcajt, the other a Nativity / there is a German clock full of rare and extraordinary motions, and in a little room below are many precious marbles, columns, urnes, vasas, and noble s'.dtues of porphyry, Orien- tal alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabriq is an ample area, environ'd with i6 vast jarrs of red earth wherein the Romans us'd to preserve their oyle, or wine rather, which they buried, and such as are properly called Testes. I must never forget the famous statue of the Gladiator spoken of by Pliny, so much foUow'd by all the rare ar- tists as the many copies testifie, dispersed through almost all Europ both in stone and metal. There is also an Hercules, a head of por- phyrie, and one of Marcus AureHus. In the villa-house is a man's body, flesh and all, petrified and even converted to marble, as it was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to one of the Popes ; it lay in a chest or coffin lin'd with black velvet, and one of the armes being broken, you mav see the perfect bone from the flesh which re- mains intire. The Rape of Proserpine in marble is of the purest white, the worke of Bernini. In the cabinet neere it are innumerable small brasse figures and other curiosities. But what some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich bedstead (which sort of grosse furniture the Italians much glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious stones and antiq heads, onyxs, achates, and cornelians, esteem'd to be worth 80 or 90,000 crownes. Here are also divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides pictures in the gallery especialy the Apollo. There is a chayre to sleepe in with the leggs stretcht out. with books, and pieces of wood to draw out longer or shorter. From this we went to see Sign. Angeloni's study, who very courte- ously shew'd us such a collection of rare medaills as is hardly to be parallel'd ; divers good pictures, and many outlandish and Indian curi- osities and things of nature. Hence we went to Monte Cavallo, heretofore call'd Mons. Quiri- nalis, where we saw those two rare horses, the worke of the rivals Phidias and Praxiteles, as they were sent as a present to Nero [by Tiri- dates King] out of Arminia. They were placed on pedestals of white marble by Sixtus V. by whom I suppose their injuries were repair'd. They are govern'd by 4 naked slaves like those at the foote of the 94 PALACE OF THE POPE. BATHS OF DIOCLESIAN. FONS FELIX. Capitol. Here runs a most noble fountaine, faceing fower of the most stately strectes for building and beauty to be seen in any Citty of Europ. Opposite to these statues is the Pope's Sum'er Palace, built by Gregory XIII. and in my opinion for the largeness and the archi- tecture one of the most conspicuous in Rome. It has a stately portico which leads round the court under columns, in the center of which runs a beautifuU fountaine. The chapell is incrusted with such precious materials, that nothing can be more rich or glorious, nor are the other ornaments and moveables about it at all inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci and others. The garden which is call'd the Belvedere di Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is most excellent for ayre and prospect, its exquisite fountaines, close walkes, grotts, piscinas or stews for fish, planted about with venerable cypresses, and refresh'd with water-musiq, aviaries, and other rarities. 12 Nov. We saw Dioclesian's Bathes, whose mines testifie the vastness of the original foundation and magnificence ; by what M. Angelo tooke from the ornaments about it, 'tis sayd he restor'd the then almost lost art of architecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labour of the prim.itive Christians, then under one of the ten great persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out of one onely of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form of an urne with a cover. Opposite to this is the Fontana delle Thcrme, otherwise call'd Fons Felix ; in it is a basso relievo of white marble representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorn'd with camels, men, women, anr^ children drinking, as large as life ; a worke for the designe and vast- nesse truly magnificent. The water is convey'd no lesse than 22 miles in an aquccduct by Sixtus V. ex agro Coluinna by way of Prsneste, as the mscription testifies. It gushes into three ample lavors rais'd about with stone, before which are placed two lions of a strange black stone very rare and antiq. Neere this are the Store-houses for the Cittys corne, and over against it the Church of St. Susanna where were the gardens of Sallust. The faciata of this church is noble, the soffito withm is gilded and full of pictures ; especialy famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar IS of exquisite worke, from whose marble stepps you descend under- ground to tlie repository of divers Saints. The picture over this altar is sZ M^''; n^'v'^"-. The foundation is for Bernadine Nunns. Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most ravishing front. -icto V onJ r'"' '""^ 'l^ ^ '''''' ^''S- after the signal victory o the Emperor at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang ^e (4^it "^"^^^ frequented for an image o nf.tK ^.u . . ^'^'^ ""'^ '^"'^ ^'^^^ statues : there is Paule ravish'd mto the third heaven, by Ger. Fiamengo, and some good p ctu es THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 95 We went again to Dioclesian's Bathes, never satisfied with contem- plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000 Christians were destin'd to labour 14 yeares and were then all murther'd. Here is a Monastery of Carthusians call'd Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architec- ture of M. Angelo, the cloister encompassing walls in an ample garden. Mont Alto's Villa is enter'd by a stately gate of stone built on the Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious parke full of fountaines, especialy that which salutes us at the front ; stews for fish ; the cypresse walkes are so beset with statues, inscriptions, rehevos, and other ancient marbles, that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The citron-trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it are in- numerable collections of value. In St. Agnes Church is a tribunal of antiq Mosaiq, and on the altar a most rich Ciborio of brasse with a statue of St. Agnes in Oriental alabaster. The Church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here they shew'd us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore sacred to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken emblemes and in- struments wrought upon it. The altar is of rich porphyrie, as I remem- ber. Looking back we had the intireview of the Via Pia downe to the two houses before the Monte Cavallo before mention'd, one of the most glorious sights for state and magnificence that any Citty can shew a traveller. We return'd by Porta Pia and the Via Salaria, neere Campo Scclerato, in whose gloomy caves the wanton vestals were here- tofore im'ured alive. Thence to Via Felix a straite and noble streete but very precipitous, till we came to the Fountaines of Lcpidus, built at the abbutments of 4 stately wayes, making an exact Crosse of right angles ; and at the Fountaines are as many cumbent figures of marble under very large niches of stone, the water pouring into huge basins. The Church of St. Carlo is a singular fabriq for neatnesse, of an oval designe, built of a new white stone ; the columns are worth notice. Under it is another Church of a structure nothing lesse admirable. Santa Maria Maggiore is on the Esquiline Mountaine, which gives it a most conspicuous face to the streete at a greate distance. The de- sign is mix'd, partly antiq, partly moderne. Here they affirme that the Bl. Virgin appearing, shew'd where it should be built 300 yeares since. The first pavement is rare and antiq ; so is the portico built by P. P. Eugenius II. The Ciborio is the worke of Paris Romano, and the Tribunal of Mosaic. We were shew'd in the Church a Concha of por- phyrie wherein they say Patricius the founder lyes. This is one of the most famous of the 7 Roman Churches, and is in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the most magnificent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, are the two Chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of Sextus was design'd by Dom. Fontana, in which are two rare greate statues, and some good pieces of painting ; and here they pre- 96 THE INNOCEKTS ; CRIB OF BETHLEHEM ; STUMP OF TORTURE. tended to shew some of the Holy Innocents bodyes slaine by Herod That renown'd tabernacle of metall gilt, sustain'd by 4 angels holding as many tapers, is placed on the altar. In this Chapel is the statue of Sextus in copper, with basse relievo's of most of his famous acts in Parian marble. But that of P. Paulus opposite to this, is beyond all imagination glorious and beyond description. It is so incircl'd with achates and other most precious materials as to dazzle and confound the beholders. The basse relievo's are for the \Aost part of pure snowy marble, intermixed with figures of molten orasse double gilt on lapis lazuli. The altar is a most stupendous piece ; but most incomparable is the cupola, painted by Cavaliero Giuseppe Rheni and the present Baglioni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuous Sa- cristia ; and the piece over the altar w;is by the hand of St. Luke, if you will believe it. Paule V. hath here likewise built two other altars ; under the one lye the bcnes of the Apostle St. Mathias. In another Oratory is the statue of this Pope, and the head of the Congo Ambas- sador who was converted at Rome and dy'd here. In a third Chapel designed by M. Angelo lyes the body of Platina, and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III. Nicephorus IV. the ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of Sextus V. before mentioned was shew'd us part of the crib in which Christ was swaddl'd at Bethlem ; there is also the statue of Pius V. Going out at the further end is the resurrection of Lazarus by a very rare hand. In the portico is this late inscription : " Cardinal! Antonio Barberino Archipresbytero, aream marmoream quam Christianorum pietas exculpit, laboranle sub Tyrannis ecclesia, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, Franciscus Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani, h suis asdibus hue transtulit et ornavit 1632." Just before this portico stands a very sublime and stately Corinthian columne of white marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old Temple of Peace built by Vespasian, having on the plinth of the capital the image of our Lady gilt on mettal ; at the pedestal runs a fountaine.— Going downe the hill we saw the Obelisq taken from the Mauso- leum of Augustus, and erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, with this epigraphe: " Sixtus V. Pont. Max. obehscum i4£gypto ad- vectum, Augusti in mausoleo dicatum, cversum deinde et in plures confractum partes, in via ad. S. Rochum jacentem, in pristinam faciem restilutum, Salutifcra? Cruci felicius hie erigi jussit anno M.D.L.XXXVIII. Pont III." At the foote of this hill is the Church of Pudentia, in which is a well fill'd with the blood and bones of several M-^/cyrs, but grated over with yron ; it is visited by many Devota's. Neere tins is the Church of her sister S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a little obscure place cancelled in with yron worke, is the Pillar or Stump at which they relate our Bl. Saviour was scourged, being full of bloudy spotts, at which the devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 97 convey their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides a noblre statue of St. Peter is the tombe of the famous Caidinal Cajetan, an excellent piece. Here they hold that St. Peter sayd his first masse at Rome with the same altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having been first lodged in this house, as they compute, about the 44th yeare Df the incarnation. They also shew many reliques, or rather raggs, of his mantle. In the Church of Laurence in Panisperna is the Gridiron on which that Martyr was broyl'd. St. Brigit is buried in this Church under a stately monument. In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Lau- rence painted a fresca on the wall. The frabriq is nothing but Gotic. On the left is theTherma Novatii, and on the right Agrippina's Lavacrum. 14 Nov. We pass'd againe thro' the stately Capitol and Campo Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, but were first stay'd to Icoke at Titus's triumphal Arch erected by the people of Rome in honour of his victory at Jerusalem, on the left hand whereof he is represented drawne in a charriot with 4 horses abreast ; on the right- hand, or side of the arch within, is sculptur'd in figures, or basse re- lievo as big as the life, and in one intire marble, the Arke of the Cove- nant, on which stands the seaven-branch'd candlestick describ'd in Le- viticus, as also the two Tables of the Law, all borne on men's shoul- ders by the barrs, as they are describ'd in some of St. Hierom's Bibles ; before this go many crown'd and laureated figures, and 12 Roman fasces, with sacred vessels. This much confirmed the idea I before had ; and, for the light it gave to the Holy History, I caused my paynter Carlo to copy it exactly. The rest of theworke of the Arch is of the noblest, best understood composita. Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us Simon Magus fell out of the ayre at St. Peter's prayer, and burst himselfe to pieces on a fiint. Neere this is a marble monument erected by the people of Rome in memory of the Pope's returne from Avignon. Being now pass'd the mines of Meta sudajite (which stood be- fore the Colosseum) provided to refresh the gladiators, we enter the mighty mines of the Vespasian Amphitheatre, begun by Vespasian, and finished by that excellent prince Titus. It is 830 Roman palmes m length {i.e, 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, with caves for the wild beasts which us'd to be baited by men instead of doggs ; the whole oval peripheria 2888f palmes, and capable of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accom'odation : the 3 rowes of circles are yet entire ; the first was for the senators, the middle for the mobility, the third for the people. At the dedication of this place were 5000 wild beasts slain in 3 months during which the feast lasted, to the ex- pence of 10 millions of gold. It is built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the 5 orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive Tewes. It is, without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorn'd thick with statues, pjid remained intire tiii of late that some of tne stones were tamed 7 98 AMPHITHEATRE OF VESPASIAN. ARCH OF CONSTANTINE. away to repaire the Citty walls and build the Farnesian Palace. That which still appeares most admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, and staircs, with the excessive altitude, which well deserves this distich of the poet : " Omnis Caesario cedat labor Amphitheatre, Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus." Neere it is a small chapell call'd Sta Maria della Pieta nel Colisseo, which is erected on the steps or stages veiy lofty at one of its sides or ranges within, and where there lives only a melancholy hermite. I ascended to the very top of it with wonderfuU admiration. The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta sudante before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via Appia on one side of Monte Celio, and is perfectly intire, erected by the people in memory of his victory over Maxentius at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole, in the front is this inscription : IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO P. F. AVGVSTO S. P. Q. R. QVOD INSTINCTV DIFINITATIS MENTIS MAGNITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO TAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS FACTION E VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS REMPVI5LICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. Hence we went to St. Gregorio in Monte Celio, where are many privileged altars, and there they shew'd us an arme of that Saint and other reliques. Before this Church stands a very noble portico. 17. I walked to Villa Borghesi, a house and ample garden on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the Citty walls, circumscribed by another wall full of small turrets and banqueting-houses, which makes It appeare at a distance like a little towne. Within it is an elysium of delight, having in the centre a noble Palace ; but the enterance of the garden presents us with a very glorious fabrick or rather dore- case adorn'd with divers excellent marble statues. This garden abounded with all sorts of delicious fruit and exotiq simples, fountaines ot sundry inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad- joining to It a vivarium for estrigcs, peacocks, swanns, cranes, &c. and divers strange beasts, deare, and iuires. The grotto is very rare, and ITZZoU 7°""' "l^"'" ^'T^' ''''''^''''^ ^""dry shapes tl e fn • "''-^'i "'■"'^ '^''''^ changing the heads of o ive W "t?- ^yP^esse, laurelf, pine, myrtil, olive &c. The 4 sp^nnxes are very antique and worthy observa ion lurT/" ^ "u^?' '""""^ The house is square, w^h u ts from which the prospect is excellent towaids Rome and the mmoning hills covered as they now are with snow, which indeed com- monly continues even a great part of the sum'er, afford inT gre^t THE DIARY OF JuHN EVELYN. 99 refreshment. Round the house is a bakistre of white marble> with frequent jettos of water, and adorn'd with a multitude ot statues. The walls of the house are cover'd with antiq incrustations of history, as that of Curtius, the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above consist of frutages and festoons, between which are niches furnish'd with statues, which order is observ'd to the very roofe. In the lodge at the entry are divers good statues of consuls, &c. with two pieces of field artillery upon carriages (a mode much practized in Italy before the great men's houses), which they looke on as a piece of state more than defence. In the first hall within are the 12 Roman Emperors, 01 excellent marble : 'twixt them stand porphyry columns and other precious stones of vast height and magnitude, with urnes of Oriental alabaster. Tables of Pietra-Commessa. Here is that renown'd Diana which Pompey worshipp'd ; the most incomparable Seneca, of touch bleeding in an huge vasa of porphyrie, resembling the dropps ol his blood ; the so famous gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt of stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, ot Cavaliero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the stone, and the art of the statuary which is stupendious. There are a multitude of rare pictures of infinite value by the best masters ; huge tables of porphyrie, and two exquisitely-wrought vases of the same. In another chamber are divers sorts of instruments of musiq ; amongst other toyes that of a satyre with so artificialy express'd an human voice, with the motion of eyes and head, that it might easily affright one who was not prepared for that most extravagant sight. They shew'd us also a chayre which catches any who sitts downe in it so as not to be able to stirr out, by certaine springs concealed in the armes and back thereoff, which at sitting downe surprizes a man on the suddaine, lock- ing him in by the armes and thighs, after a true tretcherous Itahan guise. The perspective is considerable, compos'd by the position of looking-glasses, which render a strange multiplication of things re- sembling divers most richly-furnish'd roomes. Here stands a rare clock of German worke ; in a word, nothing but what is magnificent is to be seen in this paradise. The next day I went to the Vatican, where in the morning I saw the ceremony of Pamfilio the Pope's nephew receiving a Cardinal s hat ; this was the first time I had seen his holiness m pontificalibus. After the Cardinals and Princes had met in the Consistory, the cere- mony was in the Pope's Chapell, where he was at the altar mvested with most pompous rites. 17 Nov. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendious and incom- parable Basilicum, far surpassing any now extant in the world, and perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any that was ever built.- The largeness of the piazza before the portico is worth observing, because it affords a noble prospect of the Church, not crowded up as tor the most lOO DESCRIPTION OF THE OBELISK BROUGHT FROM EGYPT. part is the case in other places where greate churches are erected. In this is a fountaine out of which gushes a river rather than a streeme, which ascending a good height breakes upon a round embosse of marble into millions of pearles that fall into the subjacent basons with greate noise ; I esteeme this one of the goodliest fountaines I ever saw. Next is the Obehsq transported out of Egypt and dedicated by Octavius Augustus to Juhus Caesar, whose ashes it formerly bore on the sumit ; but being since overturn'd by the Barbarians, was re- erected with vast cost and a most stupendious invention by Domemco Fontana, architect to Sixtus V. The Obelisk consists of one intire square stone without hieroglyphic, in height 72 foote, but compre- hending the base and all 'tis 108 foote high. It rests on 4 lyons of gilded copper. You may see through the base of the Obelisq and plinth of the piedestal. Upon two faces of the Obehsq is engraven : DIVO CAES. DIVI IVLII F. AVGVSTO TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. F. AVGVST. SACRVM. It now beares on the top a crosse in which 'tis sayd that Sixtus V. r. closed some of the holy wood ; and under it is to be read by good eyes : SANCTISSIMAE CRVCI SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. CONSECRAVIT. E PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. I. L. ABLATVM M.D.LXXXVL On the loure faces of the base below : I. CHRISTVS VINCIT. CHRISTVS REGNAT. CHRISTVS IMPERAL. CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO PLEEEM SVAM DEFENDAT. 2. SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. OVELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM IMP 10 CVLTV DICATVM AD APOSTOLORVM DIIS LIMINA OPEROSO LABORE TRANSTVLIT /.N. M.D.LXXXVL PONT. IL ECCE CRVX DOMINI FVGITE PARTES ADVERSAE VINCIT LEO DE TRIBV IVDA. 4- SIXTVS V. PONT. MAX. CRVCI INVICTAE THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ZOI OBELISCVM VATICANVM AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE EXPIATVM IVSTIVS ET FELICIVS CONSECRAVIT AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. A little lower : DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVO COxMENSIS TRANSTVLIT ET EREXIT. It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have cost 37,975 crowns, the labor of 907 men and 75 horses ; it was the first of the 4 Egyptian Obelisks set up at Rome, and one of the 42 brought to the Citty out of Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the Goths, Barbarians, and Earthquakes. See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 315. — Some coaches stood before the stepps of the ascent, whereof one belonging to Card. Medici had all the metall worke of massy silver ; viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at Rome, as well as cover'd wagons which are also much in use, are generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the faciata of the Church is an ample pavement. The Church was first begun by St. Anacletus when rather a Chapel, on a foundation as they give out of Constantine the Great, who in honour of the Apostles carried 12 baskets full of sand to the work. After him Julius II. tooke it in hand, to which all his successors have contributed more or less. The front is suppos'd to be the largest and best studied piece of architecture in the world ; to this we went up by 4 stepps of marble. The first entrance is supported by huge pilasters ; the volto within is the richest in the world, overlayd with gold. Between the 5 large anti- ports are columns of enormous height and compass, with as many gates of brasse the worke and sculpture of Pollajuolo the Florentine, full of cast figures and histories in a dcepe relievo. Over this runs a terrace of like amplitude and ornament, where the Pope at solemn times bestowes his benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one per- fected, of admirable art. On the top of all runns a balustrade which edges it quite round, and upon this at equal distances are Christ and the 12 Disciples of gigantic size and stature, yet below shewing no greater than the life. Entring the Church, admirable is the bredth of the volto or roofe which is all carv'd with foliage and roses overlayd with gold in nature of a deepe bass relievo, a r a?tiig. The nave, or body, is in forme of a crosse, whereof the foote part is the longest ; and at the internodium of the transept rises the cupola, which bemg all of stone and of prodigious height is more in compasse than that of the Pantheon (which was the largest amongst the old Romans, and is yet inthe) or any other in the world. The inside or concave is cover d wi h most exquisite IMosaiq representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by I02 SIZE AND MAGNIFICENCE OF ST. PETER'S, ROME. Giuseppe d'Arpino, full of Starrs of gold ; the convex or outside exposed to the aire, is cover'd with lead with great ribbs of metall double guilt (as arc also the ten other lesser cupolas, for no fewer adorn this glori- ous structure) which gives a great and admirable splendor in all parts of the Citty. On the sum'it of this is fix'd a brasen globe gilt, capable of receiving 35 persons. This I entered and engrav'd my name amongst other travellers. Lastly is the crosse, the access to which is betweene the leaden covering and the stone convex or arch-worke, a most truly astonishing piece of art. On the battlements of the Church, also all overlayd with lead and marble, you would imagine yourself in a town, so many are the cupolas, pinnacles, towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited by men who dwell there, and have enough to do to looke after the vast reparations which continually employ them. We descended into the body of the Church, which is full of collaterall Chapclls and large Oratories, most of them exceeding the size of ordi- nary Churches ; but the principal are fowre incrusted with most precious marbles and stones of various colours, adorn'd with an infinity of statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable reliques. The altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaiq I could not passe without particular note, as one of the best of that kind. The Chapel of Gregory XIII. where he is buried, is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the center of the Church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by Clement VIII. adorn'd by Paul V. and lately cover'd by Pope Urban VIII. with that stupendous canopy of Corinthian brasse which heretofore was brought from the Pantheon ; it consists of 4 wreath'd columns partly channeled and incircl'd with vines, on which hang little puti, birds and bees (the armes of the Barbarini), sustaining a baldachino of the same mettal. The 4 columns weigh an hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt ; this with the pedestalls, crowne, and statues about it, form a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond all that man's industry has produced of the kind : it is the work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, and poet, who, a little before my coming to the Citty, gave a publiq Opera (for so they call shews ol that kind) wherein he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the cngmes, compos'd the musiq, writ the comedy, and built the theatre. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those niches which with their columns support the weighty cupola, are placed 4 exquisite statues ol I arian marble, to which are 4 altars ; that of St. Veronica made by Fra. Mochi, has over it the Reliquary, where they shew'd us the mira- culous Sudanum indued with the picture of our Saviour's face, with this mscription : " Salvatoris imaginem Veronica; Sudario excepta ut loci majcstas decent^r custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmo- reum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et ornavit." Right against this is tliat oi' Longinus, of a Colossean magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the Conservatory of the iron lance inserted in THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. a most precious chrystal, with this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam quam Innocentius VIII. a Basagete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. statua apposita et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Conditorium transtulit." The third Chapel has over the altar the statue of our countrywoman St. Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, the worke of Boggi, an excellent sculptor ; and here is preserved a greate piece of the pre- tended wood of the holy crosse, which she is said to have first detected miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by the late Pope with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam Helena Impcratrix h Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. h Sissoriana Basilica desumptam, additis ara et statua, hie in Vaticano collocavit." The 4th hath over the altar, and opposite to that of St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the worke of Fiamingo, admirable above all the other ; above is preserv'd the head of that Apostle richly inchas'd. It is said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini the chiefe architect, who found himselfe outdone by this artist. The inscription over it is this : " St. Andreae caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportan dum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hic ornamentis decoratum sacrisq' statuae, ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit." The Reliques shew'd and kept in this Church are without number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and gems, with the vests and services to be scene in the Sacristy, which they shew'd us. Under the high altar is an ample grot inlaid with Pietra Com'essa, wherein half of the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserv'd ; before hang divers greate lamps of the richest plate burning continually. About this and contiguous to the altar runns a balustrade in forme of a theatre, of black marble. Towards the left as you goe out of the Church by the portico, a little beneath the high altar is an old brasse statue of St. Peter sitting, under the soles of whose feete many devout persons rub their heads and touch their chaplets. This was formerly cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another place stands a columne grated about with yron, whereon they report that our Bl. Saviour was often wont to leane as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the reliquary under the cupola there are 8 wreathed columns which were brought from the Temple of Solomon. In another Chapell they shew'd us the chayre of St. Peter, or as they name it, the Apos tohcal Throne ; but amongst all the Chapells the one most glorious has for an altar-piece, a Madona bearing a dead Christ on her knees m white marble, the work of M. Angelo. At the upper end of the Cathedral are several stately monuments, especialy that of Urban VI IT Round the cupola and in many other places in the Church are con- fession-seates for all languages, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, French, English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, &c. as it is written I04 CHURCH OF ST. JOHN DE LATERANA. SCALA SANCTA. on their freezes in golden capitals, and there are still at confessions some of all nations. Towards the lower end of the Church and on the side oi a vast pillar sustaining a weighty roofe, is the depositum and statue of the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso-relievos about it of white marble, the worke of Bernini, Here are also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus HI. &c. Amongst the exquisite pieces in this sump- tuous fabriq is that of the Ship with St. Peter held up from sinking by our Saviour ; the emblems about it are the Mosaiq of the famous Gioiio, who restor'd and mLAZZO i)l GHISl. RELICS IN ROME. CHRISTMAS. a p'leiilltull cascade ; the steppes of the grotto and the roofs being of rich Mosaiq. Here are hydrauHc organs, and a fish-pond in an ample bath. From hence we went to taste some rare Greco, and so home. Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept within, for the most part, till the 6 Dec, and during this time I entertain'd one Sign. Alcssandro, who gave me some lessons on the thcorba. The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed in a ferry- boate, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing in Transtevere, faircly built, but famous onely for the painting a fresca on the volto of the portico towards the garden ; the story is the Amours of Cupid a7id Psyche^ hy the hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbin, Here you always see Painters designing and copying after it, it being esteemed one of the rarest pieces of that art in the world, and with greate reason. I must not omit that incomparable table of Galatea (as 1 remember), so care- fully preserved in the cupboard at one of the ends of this walke, to pro- tect it from the aire, being a most lively painting. There are likewise excellent things of Baldassare and others. Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of Bracciano, fairely built, with a stately court and fountaine. — Next we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the Taberna Meritoria, where the old Roman sol- diers received their triumphal garland, which they ever after wore. The high altar is very faire, adorn'd with columns of porphyrie ; here is also some mosaic worke about the quire, and the Assumption is an esteem'd piece. It is sayd that this Church was the first that was dedi- cated to the Virgin at Rome. In the opposite Piazza is a very sump- tuous fountaine. 12. I went againe to St. Peter's, to see the Chapells, Churches, and Grotts under the whole Church (like our St. Faith's under Paules,) in which lie interr'd a multitude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes ; amongst them our countrym.an Hadrian IV. in a chest of porphyrie; St. Jo* Chrysostom ; Petronella ; the heads of St. James Minor, St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas \ Becket, a shoulder of St. Christopher ; an arme of Joseph of Arimathea ; Longinus ; besides 134 more Bishops, Souldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, Emperors, their wives too long to particularize. Hence we walked into the Cemiteiy cal'd Campo Santo, the earth consistmg of severall ship loads of mould transported from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcasse in 24 houres. To this joynes that rare Hos- pital, where once was Nero's Circus ; and next to this is the Inquisition house and prison, the inside thereof, I thanke God, I was not curious to sec. To this joins his Holincsse's Horse-guards. On Christmas Eve I went not to bed, being desirous of seeing the many extraordinary ceremonies performed then in their Churches, a? midnight massfci and sermons. I went from Church to Church the ^^nole night m admiration at the multitude of sceanes and pao-nantry THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. "3 (v-hich the Friers had with miicli industry and craft set out, to catch the devout women and superstitious sort of people, who never parted with- out dropping some money into a vessell set on purpose ; but especialy observable was the pupetry in the Church of the Minerva, representing- the Nativity. I thence went and heard a sermon at the ApoUinare, by which time it was morning. On Christmas Day his Holinesse saing Masse, the artillerie at St. Angelowent off, and all this day was expos'd the cradle of our Lord. 29. We were invited by the English Jesuites to dinner, being their greate feast of Thomas [h Becket] of Canterbury. We dined in their common Refectory, and afterwards saw an Italian Comedy acted by their alumni before the Cardinals. 1645. Jan. We saw passe the new officers of the people of Rome ; especialy for their noble habits were most conspicuous the 3 Consuls, now call'd Conservators, who take their places in the Capitol, having been sworne the day before, betwene the hands of the Pope. We ended the day with the rare musiq at the Chiesa Nova. 6 Jan. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's Baptisme in the Church of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Celi was a greate procession, del Bam- lino as they call it, where were all the Magistrates, and a wonderful! concourse of people. 7. A Sermon was preach'd to the Jewes at Ponte Sisto, who are con- strained to sit till the houre is don ; but it is with so much malice in their countenances, spitting, hum'ing, coughing, and motion, that it is almost impossible they should heare a word from the preacher. A con- version is very rare. 14. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are expos'd at St. John de Laterano. 15. The Zitclle, or young wenches, which are to have portions given them by the Pope, being poore, and to marry them, walked in proces- sion to St. Peter's, where the Veronica was shevv'd. I went to the Ghetto, where the Jewes dwell as in a suburbe by theni- selues ; being invited by a Jew of my acquaintance to see a circumci- sion. I passed by the Piazza Judea, where their Seraglio begins ; for being inviron'd with walls, they are lock'd up every night. In this place remaines yet part of a stately fabric, which my Jew told me had been a palace of theirs for the ambassador of their nation when their country was subject to the Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a privat house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by and by came an old man, who prepared and layd m order divers instru- ments brought by a little child of about 7 yeares old in a box. These the man lay'd in a silver bason ; the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, which perfum'd the rome all the while the ceremony was performing. In the basin was a little cap made of white paper like a capuchins hood, not I 14 CIRCUMCISION OF A JEW. MAGNIFICENCE OF THE VATICAN. bigger than the finger ; also a paper of a red astringent powder, I sup. pcse of bole ; a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at one end to take up the prepuce with all ; a fine linen cloth wrapped up. These being all in order, the women brought the infant, swaddl'd, out of another chamber, and delivered it to the Rabbie, who carried and presented it before an altar or cupbord dress'd up, on which lay the 5 Bookes of Moses, and the Commandments a little unrowled ; before this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, he waved the child to and fro awhile ; then he deliver'd it to another Rabbie, who sate all this time upon a table. Whilst the ceremony was performing, all the company fell a singing an Hebrew hymn in a barbarous tone, waving themselves to and fro, a ceremony they observe in all their de- votions—The J ewes in Rome all wear yellow hatts, live onely upon brokage and usury, very poore and despicable beyond what they are in other territories of Princes where they are permitted. 18 Jan. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, where he for the most part keeps his Court. It was first built by Pope Simachus, and since augmented to a vast pile of building by his successors. That part of it added by Sixtus V. is most magnificent. This leads us into divers tarraces arched sud dio,pcLinted by Raphael with the Historys of the Bible, so estcem'd that artists come from all parts of Europe to make their studies from these designes. The foliage and grotesq about 3ome of the compartments are admirable.' In another rome are repre- sented at large mapps and plotts of most countries in the world, in vast tables, with briefe descriptions. The stayres which ascend out of St. Peter's portico into the first hall, are rarely contriv'd for ease ; these leade into the hall of Gregory XIII. the walls whereof, halfe way to the roofe, are incrusted with most precious marbles of various colours and workes. So is also the pavement inlaid worke ; but what exceeds de- scription is the volta or rooff itselfe, which is so exquisitely painted, that 'tis almost impossible for the skilfullest eye to discerne whether it be the worke of the pensil upon a flatt, or of a toole cutt deepe in stone. The I^ofti dentata in this admirable perspective, on the left hand as one goes out, the Stella, &c. are things of art incomparable. Certainly this is one of the most superb and royall appartements in the world, much too beautifull for a guard of gigantic Swissers, who do nothing but drinke and play at cards in it. Going up these stayres is a paynting of ^V. P eter walking on the sea towards our Saviour. Out of this I went into another hall, just before the chapell called the Saladel Conclave, full of admirable paintings ; amongst others is the Assassination of Coli-nij, the greate [Protestant] French Admiral, murdor'd by the D. of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of Hen. IV. with Queen Margarite ; under it is written, " Coligni ct sociorum caedes on the other side, « Rex Coligni necem probat." Voyrgi"!riiaiy -^p^V^ "^^"^"^ ^'""^ °^ Raphael. Painter THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. "5 There is another very large picture, under which is inscribed, " Alexander Papa III. Fredrici Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum fugiens abdidit es Venetijs ; cognitum et a senatu perhonorific^ sus- ceptum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali praslio victo captoq ; Fredcri cus pace facta supplcx adorat ; fidem et obedicntiam pollicitus. Ita Pontifici sua dignitas Venet. Rep. beneficio restituta MCLXXVlii." ' This inscription I the rather took notice of, because Urban VIII. had caused it to be blotted out during the difference betweene him and that State ; but it was now restor'd and refresh'd by his successor, to the greate honor of the Venetians. The Battaile of Lepanto is another faire piece here. Now we came into the Pope's Chapell, so much celebrated for the Last Judgment^ painted by M. Angelo Buonarotti. It is a painting in frcsca upon a dead wall at the upper end of the Chapell, just over the high altar, of a vast designe and miraculous fancy, considering the multitude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roofe also is full of rare worke. — Hence we went into the Sacristia, where we were show'd all the most precious vestments, copes, and furniture of the Chapell. One priestly cope, with the whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, and is shewn for a greate rarity. There were divers of the Pope's pantofles that are kissed on his foote, having rich Jewells embrodred on the instep, cover'd with crimson velvet ; also his tyara, or triple crown, divers miters, crosiers, &c. all bestudded with precious stones, gold, and pearle, to a very great value ; a very large crosse, carved (as they affirme) out of the holy wood it selfe ; also numerous utensils of chrystal, gold, achat, amber, and other costly materials for the altar. We then went into those chambers painted with the Historys of the burning of Rome ^ quenched by the procession of a Crucifix; the Victory of Constantine over Maxentiusj St. Peters delivery out of Prison; all by Julio Romano,^ and are therefore cal'd the Paynters' Academy, because you always find some young men or other designing from them ; a civility which is not refused in Italy where any rare pieces of the old and best masters are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many excellent men in that profession. The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin Alberti, with an ample landskip of Paul Brill's. We were then conducted into a new Gallery, whose sides were painted with views of the most famous places, towns, and territories m Italy, rarely don, and upon the roofe the chiefe acts of the Roman 1 Pope Alexander III. flying from the wrath and attack of the Emperor Frederick I. took shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and most honourably received by the benate. The Emperor's son Otho being conquered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became a suppliant to the Pope, promising faith and obedience. Ihus lus ci^:- nity was restored to the Pontiff by the aid of the Republic of Venice, mclxxviil 8 A famous scholar of Raphael. 1 16 THE LIBRARY OF THE VATICAN, AND ITS LITERARY TREASURES Church since St. Peter's pretended See there. It is doubtlesse cue of the most magnificent galleries in Europ.— Out of this we came into the Consistory, a noble roome, the volto painted in grotesq, as I remember. At the upper end is an elevated throne, and a baldachino or canopy of state, for his Holinesse, over it. From tlience, through a very long gallery (longer, I think, then the French king's at the Louvre), but onely of bare walls, we were brought into the Vatican Library. This passage was now full of poore people, to each of whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo grosse. I believe there were in number neer 1500 or 2000 persons. This Library is the most nobly built, furnish'd, and beautified of any in the world ; ample, stately, light, and cherefull, looking into a most pleasant garden. The walls and roofe are painted, not with antiques and grotescs, like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia- grams, and the Hke learned inventions, found out by the wit and industry of famous men, of which there are now whole volumes extant There were likewise the effigies of the most illustrious men of letters and fathers of the Church, with divers noble statues in white marble at the entrance, viz. Hippolitus and Aristides. The Generall Councils are painted on the side walls. As to the ranging of the booke.^, they are all shut up in presses of wainscot, and not expos'd on shelves to the open ayre, nor are the most precious mix'd amongst the more ordinary, which are show'd to the curious onely ; such as are those two Virgils written in parchment, of more then a thousand yeares old ; the like a Terence ; the Acts of the Apostles in golden capital letters ; Petrarch's Epigrams, written with his owne hand ; also an Hebrew parchment made up in the ancient manner, from whence they were first call'd Volumina, with the Cornua ; but what we English do much enquire after, the booke which our Hen. VIII. writ against Luther.' The longest roome is 100 paces long ; at the end is the gallery of printed books : then the gallery of the D. of Urbans librarie, in which are MSS. of remarkable miniature, and divers China, Mexican, Sama- ritan, Abyssin, and other Oriental books. In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all the bookes taken from Heidelburg, of which the learned Grutcr and other greate scholars had been keepers. These walls and volto are painted with representations of the machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection of the obelisqs ; and the true designe of Mahomet's sepulchre at Mecca. Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during a vacancy, hlJhrLr^,^l^'^^r\''^ '^^t occasionally happen, has recently ^c^hc" Uc o?D;T T ' f it ; and what is Ly fema'rlcable wL": the U^ninr.nd end ^^ni ^ 7w"'T' °^ '^'u^'"^ '^""^ ''^ ^'^ hand-wHting both at THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed upon a new election, the whole manner whereof was describ'd to us. Hence we went into the Pope's Armory under the Library. Over the dore is this inscription : " Urbanus VIII. Litteris Arma, Arma Litteris." I hardly believe any Prince in Europis able to shew a more complcatcly furnish'd Library of Mars for the quality and quantity, which is 40,000 compleate for horse and foote, and most neately kept. Out of this we pass'd againe by the long Gallery and at the lower end of it downe a very large payr of stayres, round, without any stepps as usualy, but descending with an evenesse so ample and easy that a horse litter or coach may with ease be drawne up ; the sides of the vacuity are set with columns ; those at Amboise on the Loire in France are something of this invention, but nothing so spruce. By these we descended into the Vatican Gardens cal'd Belvedere^ where entring first into a kind of Court we were shew'd those incomparable statues (so fam'd by Pliny and others) of Laocoon with his three sonns embrac'd by an huge ser- pent, all of one entire Parian stone very white and perfect, somewhat bigger then the life, the worke of those three celebrated sculptors, Agc- sandrus, Polidorus, and Artemidorus, Rhodians ; it was found amongst the ruines of Titus's Baths, and placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteem'd before all pictures and statues in the world ; and I am of his opinion, for I never beheld anything of art approach it. Here are also those two famous images of Nylus with the Children playing about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus and Rhemus with the Wolfe ; the dying Cleopatra ; the Venus and Cupid, rare pieces ; the Mercury ; Cybel ; Plercules ; Apollo ; Antinous : most of which are, for defence against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot dorcs. We were likewise shew'd the reliques of the Hadrian Moles, viz. the Pine, a vast piece of mettall which stood pn the summit of that mausoleum ; also a Peacock of coper, supposed to be part of Scipio's monument. In the Garden without this (which containes a vast circuit of ground) are many stately fountaines, especialy two casting water into antiq lavors brought from Titus's Bathes ; some faire grotts and waterworks, that noble cascade where the ship daunces, with divers other pleasant inventions, walkes, terraces, meanders, fruite-trees, and a most goodly prospect over the greatest part of the Citty. One fountaine under the gate I must not omitt, consisting of three jcttos of water gushing out of the mouthes or proboscis of bees (the amies of the late Pope), because of the inscription : — Quid miraris Apem, quae mel de floribus haurit? Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam. 23. We went without the walls of the Citty to visite St Paules, to which place 'tis sayd the Apostle bore his owne head after Nero had caus'd it to be cut off. The Church was founded by the Create Con- siantine ; the maine roofe is supported by 100 vast columns of marble, Il8 ST. PAULES ; TRIA FONTANA ; PALAZZO FARNESE. and the Mosaiq work of the greate arch is wrought with a very ancient story Anno 440 ; as is likewise that of the faciata. The gates are brasse made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may reade by those Greeke verses engraven on them. The Church is neere 5oofoote long and 258 in brcadtli, and has 5 great iles joyn'd to it, on the bases of one of whose columns is this odd title : " Fl Eugenius Asellus C. C. Praef. Urbis V.S.I, rcparavit." Here they shew'd us that miraculous Crucifix which they say spake to St. Brigit : and just before the Ciborio stand two excellent statues. Here are buried part of the bodys of St. Paule and St. Peter. The pavement is richly interwoven with precious orien- tal marbles about the high altar, where are also 4 excellent payntings, whereof one, representing the stonins^ cf St. Stephen^ is by the hand of a Bolognian lady named Lavinia. The Labernacle on this altar is of excellent architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento are of Lanfranchi. Diuers other reliques there be also in this venerable Church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the Woman of Samaria ; the chayne which bound St. Paule, and the Eculeus us'd in tormenting the primitive Christians. The Church stands in the Via Ostensis about a mile from the walles of the Citty, separated from any buildings neere it except the Tria Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we walked, going over the mountaine or little rising upon which story says an hun- dred seaventy and 4 thousand Christians had been martyr'd by Maxi- mianus, Dioclesian, and other blody Tyrants. On this stand St. Vin- cent's and Anastasius ; likewise the Church of St. Maria Scala del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very faire Mosaiq worke. The Church of the Tre Fontane (as they are call'd) is perfectly well built tho' but small (whereas that of St. Paule is but Gotiq) having a noble cupola in the middle ; in this they shew the pillar to which St. Paule was bound when his head was cut off, and from whence it made three prodigious leaps, where im'ediately broke out the 3 remaining fountaincs which give denomination to this Church. The waters are reported to be me- dicinal ; over each is erected an altar and a chayned ladle for better tasting of the waters. That most excellent picture of St. Peter's cried- fixion is of Guido. 25. I went againe to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some certaine sta- tues and antiquities which by reason of the Major Domo not being within I could not formerly obtaine. In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse of one of the family, upon 3 figures, a modern, but rare piece. About it stood some Gladiators ; and at the entrance into one of the first chambers are two cumbent figures of Age and Youth brought hither from St. Peter's to make roomeforthe Longinus under the cupola. Here was the statue of a ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable ex- pression of Fury cut in stone ; and a table of Pietra Com'esse very curious. 1 he next chamber was all painted afresca by a rare hand, as was the carvmg -.n wood of tho cieling which as I remember u as in cedar as the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 119 Italian mode is, and not poore plaster as ours are ; some of them most richly gilt. In a third rome stood the famous Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent of Corinthian brass antiq, on a very curious bass-relievo; the sacrifice to Priapus; the Egyptian Isis in the hard black ophit stone taken out of the Pantheon, greately celebrated by the Antiquaries ; likewise two tables of brasse containing divers old Roman laws. At another side of this chamber was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling from her horse, worthy the name of the ex- cellent sculptor, whoever the artist was. Neere this was a bass relievo of a Bacchanaha with a most curious Silenus. The 4th room was totally inviron'd with statues ; especialy observable was that so renowned piece of a Venus looking backward over her shoulder, and divers other naked figures by the old Greeke masters. Over the doores are two Venus's, one of them looking on her face in a glasse by M. Angelo, the other is painted by Caracci. I never sa w finer faces, especialy that under the masque whose beauty and art are not to be describ'd by words. The next chamber is also full of statues most of them heads of Philoso- phers, very antiq. One of the Caesars and another of Hannibal cost 1 200 crownes. Now I had a second view of that never to be sufficiently admired gallery painted in deepe relievo, the worke of 10 years study for a trifling reward. In the wardrobe above they shew'd us fine wrought plate, porcclan, mazers of beaten and solid gold set with dia- monds, rubies, and emeralds ; a treasure, especialy the workmanship consider'd, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke of Parma's. Nothing seem'd to be more curious :ind rare in its kind then the compleate service of the purest chrystat the altar of the Chapell, the very bell, cover of a book, sprinkler, &c. were all of the rock, incom- parably sculptur'd with the holy story in deepe Levati ; thus was also wrought the crucifix, chalice, vases, flower-pots, the largest and purest chrystall that my eyes ever beheld. Truely I looked on this as one of the greatest curiosities I had scene in Rome. In another part were presses furnish'd with antiq amies, German clocks, perpetual motions, watches, and curiosities of Indian workes. A very ancient picture of Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard, and a head of marble found long since, supposed to be a true portrait of our B: Saviour's face. Hence we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and countryman of ours, who had some intendency in an Hospital built on the Via Tri- umphalis, called Christ's Hospital, which he shew'd us. The Infirmitory where the sick lay was paved with various colour'd marbles, and the walls hung with noble pieces ; the beds are very faire ; in the middle is a stately cupola, under which is an altar decked with divers marble statues, all in sight of the sick, who may both see and heare masse as they lye in their beds. The organs are very fine, and frequently play'd on to recreate the people in paine. To this joyns an apartiment des- tined for the orphans ; and there is a schoole ; the childrer weare I20 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, OR INFIRMARY. AQUEDUCT OF AaGUSTUS blew like ours in London at an Hospital of the same appellation. Here are 40 nurses who give suck to such children as are accidentaly found expos'd and abandon'd. In another quarter are children of bigger growth, 450 in number, who are taught letters. In another, 500 girles under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a Monastry, as it were, by itselfe. I was assur'd there were at least 2000 more maintain'd in other places. I think one appartiment had in it neere lOiX) beds ; these are in a very long rome having an inner passage for those who attend, with as much care, sweetenesse, and conveniency as can be imagin'd, the Italians being generaly very neate. Under the portico the sick may walke out and taice the ayre. Opposite to this are other chambers for such as are sick of maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they have romes apart. At the end of the long corridore is an apothecary's shop, fair and very well stor'd ; neere which are chambers for persons of better quality who are ) ct necessitous. Whatever the poorc bring is at their coming in delivered to a treasurer, who makes an inventory and is accoumptablc to them, or their representatives if they dye. To this building joynes the house of the com'endator, who with his officers attending the sick make up 90 persons ; besides a convent and an ample church for the friers and priests who daily attend. The church is extreamely neate, and the sacristia very rich. Indeede 'tis altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I ever saw : nor is the benefit small which divers young physitians and chirurgeons reape by the experience they learne here amongst the sick, to whom those students have free accesse. Hence we ascended a very steepe hill neere the Port St. Pancratio to that stately fountaine call'd Acqua Paula, being the aqunsduct which Augustus had brought to Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V. ; a rare piece of architecture, and which serves the City after a journey of 35 miles, here pouring itselfe into divers ample lavors, out of the mouthes of swans and dragons, the armes of this Pope. Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious shew to the Citty, especialy when the sun darts on the waters as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are : Paulus V. Romanus Pontifex Opt. Max. AqujEductus ab August* Caesare extructos, a^vi longinqua vetustate collapses, in ampliorem for- mam restituit anno salutis M.D. CIX. Pont V. And towards the feilds, Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi temporis mjiiria pene diruto, sublimiorem [One or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evcly'ns 'iMS. descriptive of other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.] Thence to Velelri, a towne heretofore of the Volsci, where is a pub- Uq and faire statue of P. Urban VIII. in brasse, and a stately fountaine m the strccte. Here we lay, and drank excellent wine. Jan : 2S. We din^d at Sermoncta, descending all this moraine THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 121 downe a stony moumaine, unpleasant, yet full of olive-trees ; and anon passe a towre built on a rock, kept by a small guard against the Ban- ditti who infest these parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord Banbury and his company found to their cost a little before. To this guard we gave some mony, and so were suffer'd to passe, which was still on the Appian to the Tres Tabern£e (whither the breathren came from Rome to meete St. Paule, Acts, c. 28) ; the mines whereof are yet very faire, resembling the remainder of some considerable edi- fice, as may be judged by the vast stones and fairenesse of the arched worke. The country invironing this passage is hilly, but rich ; on the right hand stretches an ample playne, being the Pomptini Campi. We repos'd this night at Piperno, in the Post-house without the towne ; and here I was extreamely troubled with a sore hand from a mischance at Rome, v. hich now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, stiff- necked, trotting, carrion mule, which are in the world the most wretched beasts. In this towne was the Poet Virgil s Camilla borne. The day following wc were faine to hire a strong convey of about 30 firelocks to guard us through the Cork-woods (much infested with the Banditti) as far as Nova Fossa, where was the Appii Forum, and now stands a Church with a greate Monastry, the place where Thomas Aquinas both studied and lyes buried. Here we all alighted, and were most courteously received by the Monks, who shew'd us many reliques of their learned Saint, and at the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoofe which he caused to kneele before the Host. The Church is old, built after the Gotiq manner ; but the place is very agreeably melancholy. After this, pursuing the same noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a little) we found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itselfe, and afterwards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous Consul, 25 foote broad, every 12 foote something ascending for the ease and firmer footing of horse and man ; both the sides are also a little rais'd for those who travell on foote. The whole is paved with a kind of beach-stone, and, as I say'd, ever and anon adorn'd with some old ruine, sepulcher, or broken statue. In one of these monuments PanciroUus tells us that in the time of Paul 111. there was found the body of a young lady swimming in a kind of bath of precious oyle or liquor, fresh and entire as if she had been living, neither her face disco- iour'd, nor her haire disorder'd : at her feete burnt a lamp which sud- dainely expir'd at the opening of the vault ; having flam'd, as was com- puted, now 1500 yeares, by the conjecture that she was Tulliola the daughter of Cicero whose body was thus found, and as the inscription testified. We din'd this day at Terracina, heretofore the famous Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory, the Cercean by name. Whilst meate was preparing I went up into the town, and vicw'd the fayre remainders of Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a Church, adorn'd with most stately columns ; its architecture has been exeeUent. 122 THE APPIAN WAY, TOMB OF CICERO. CAJETA. as may be deduc'd from the goodly cornices, mouldings, and huge white marbles of which 'tis built. Before the portico stands a pillar thus inscrib'd : Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco, for it seemes Thcodoric drayn'd their marches. On another more ancient : Imp. Caesar Divi Nerval Filius Nerva Trajanus Aug. Ger- manicus Dacicus, Pontif. Max Trib. Pop. xviii. Imp. VI. Cos. v. p.p. XVIII. Silices sua pecunia stravit. Meaning doubtlesse some part of the Via Appia. Then, Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procuratori et Prasfect. Classis— Ti. Julius T. Fab. optatus II vir. Here is likewise a Columna Miliaria with something engraven on it, but I could not stay to consider it. Coming down againe, I went to- wards the sea side to contemplate that stupendious strange rock and promontory, cleft by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it makes a drcadfuU noyse by reason of the roaring and impetuous waves con- tinualy assaulting the beach, and that in an unusual manner. At the top at an excessive height stands an old and very greate castle. We ariv'd this night at Fundi, a most dangerous passage for robbing ; and so we pass'd by Galba's Villa, and anon entred the kingdome of Naples, where at the gate this epigraph saluted us : " Hospes hie sunt fines Regni Neopolitani ; si amicus advenis, pacat^ omnia invenies, et mails moribus pulsis, bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble pros- pect ; having before consider'd how it was carried through vast moun- taines of rocks for many miles, by most stupendious labour : here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres and antiquities, full of sweete shrubbs in the invironing hedges. At Fundi we had oranges and cit- rons for nothing, the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruite. 29. We descried Mount Ca^cubus, famous for the generous wine it heretofore produc'd, and so rid onward the Appian Way, beset with myrtils, Icntiscus, bayes, pomegranads, and whole groves of orange- trees and most delicious shrubbs, till we came to Formiana, where they shew'd us Cicero's Tomb standing in an olive grove, now a rude heap of stones, without forme or beauty ; for here that incomparable Orator was murthcr'd. I shall never forget how exceedingly I was delighted with the sweetenesse of this passage, the sepulcher mixed amongst all sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of the noble Citty Cajeta, which gives a surprizing prospect along the Tyrrhen Sea ik manner of a Theater : and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock, a frightfull spectacle, which they say happened upon the passion of our HI. haviour ; but the hast of our Procaccio did not suffer us to dweU so long on these objects, and the many antiquities of this towne, as we THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 123 At Formia we saw Cicero's grott, dining at Mola, and passing Senuessa, Garigliano (once the Citty Minterna), and beheld the ruines of that vast amphitheatre and aquaeduct yet standing ; the river Liris, which bounded the old Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, cele- brated for its wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a little village called Agatha, in the Falernian Feilds neere to Aurunca and Sessa. The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we come by the Torre di Francolesse, where Hannibal in danger from Fabius Maximus escaped by debauching his enemyes ; and so at last we enter'd tlie most pleasant plaines of Campania, now call'd Terra di Lavoro; in very truth, I thinke, the most fertile spot that ever the sun shone upon. Here we saw the slender ruines of the once mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome and Carthage, for splendor and empire, now nothing but a heape of rubbish, except shewing some vestige of its former magnificence in pieces of temples, arches, theaters, columns, ports, vaults, colossas, &:c. confounded together by the barbarous Goths and Longobards ; there is however a new Citty, neerer to the road by two miles, fairely rays'd out of these heapes. The passage from this towne to Naples (which is about 10 or 12 Enghsh post miles,) is as straight as a line, of great breadth, fuller of travellers than I remember any of our greatest and most frequented roads neere London ; but what is extreamely pleasing, is the great fertility of the feilds, planted with fruit-trees, whose boles are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant that 'tis commonly reported one vine will loade 5 mules with its grapes. What adds much to the pleasure of the sight is that the vines, climbing to the summit of the trees, reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to another, planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic- ture than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes for suggar, olives, pomegranads, mulberrys, cittrons, oranges, figgs, and other sorts of rare fruites. About the middle ot the way is the towne Aversa, wither came 3 or 4 coaches to mccte our ladye-travellers, of whom we now tooke leave, having ben very merry by the way with them and the capitano their gallant. 31 Jan. About noone we enter'd the Citty of Naples, ahghtmg at the 3 Kings, where we found the most plentifuU fare all the ^me we were in Naples. Provisions are wonderfully cheape ; we seldom sat downe to fewer than 18 or 20 dishes ot exquisite meate and fruites. The morrow after our arival, in the aftemoone, we hired a coach to carry us about the towne. First we went to the Castle of St. Llmo, built on a very high rock, whence we had an intire prospect of the whole Citty, which lyes in shape of a theatre upon the sea bnnke, with all the circumjacent islands, as far as Capreie, famous for the debauched recesses of Tiberius. Thi^ fort is the bridle ot the whole Citiy. and 124 NAPLES ; ST. ELMO ; THE MOLE ; CATHEDRAL AND CHURCHES, was well stor'd and garrison'd with native Spanyards. The strangenesse of the precipice and rarenesse of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately Palaces, Churches, and Monasteries, with the Arsenall, the Mole, and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full com'and of the eye, make it one of the richest landskips in the world. Hence we descended to another strong Castle, cal'd II Castello Nuovo, which protects the shore, but ihey would by no intreaty permit us to go in ; the outward defence seemes to consist but in 4 towrs, very high, and an exceeding deepe graft with thick walls. Opposite to this is the Toure of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy, partly old and part of a newer work, but we did not stay long here. Towards the evening we tooke the ayre upon the Mole, which is a streete on the rampart or banke rays'd in the Sea for security of their gallys in port, built as that of Genoa. Here I observed a rich fountaine in the middle of the Piazza, and adorn'd with divers rare statues of copper repre- senting the Sirens or Deities of the Parthenope, spouting large streames of water into an ample shell, all of cast metall, and of great cost ; this stands at the entrance of the Mole, where v/e mett many of the Nobility both on liorseback and in their coaches to take the fresco from the Sea, as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous quarter for good ayre, delight, and prospect. Here we saw divers goodly horses who handsomly become their riders, the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces in length, and paved with a square hewn stone. From the Mole we ascend to a Church, of greate antiquity, formerly sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greeke letters carv'd on the archi- trave and the busts of their two statues testify. It is now converted into a stately Oratory by the Theatines. The Cathcdrall is a most magnificent pile, and, except St. Peter's in Rome, Naples exceeds all Cittys for stately Churches and Monasteries. We were told that this day the blood of St. Genuarius and his head should be cxpos'd, and so we found it, but obtain'd not to see the miracle of the boiling of this blood, as was told us. The next we went to sec was St. Peter's, richly adorned, the Chapel especialy, where that Apostle sayd masse, as is testified on the walle. After dinner we went to St. Dominic, where they shew'd us the Crucifix that is reported to have sayd these words to St. Thomas, Ben6 de me scripsisti Thoma." Hence to the Padri Ohvetani, famous for the monument of the learned Alexand. ab Alexandro. We went the next day to visite the Church of Sta. Maria Maggiore, where we spcMit much tyme in surveying the Chapell of Joh. Jov. Pon- tanus, and in it the severall and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himselfe, wife, children, and friends, full of rare wilt and worthy of recording as we find them in severall writers. In the same Chapell is sliew'a an armc of Titus Livius with this epigraph; "Titi Livij hrachiura THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 125 quod Anton. Panormita a Patavinis impctravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit." Climbing a steepe hill we came to the Monastery and Church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly prospect towards the Sea and Citty, the one full of gallys and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monasteries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, Mount Vesuvius smoaking, the Promontory of Minerv'a and Misenum, Capreae, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipe, Puteoli, and the rest, doubtlessc one of the most divertisant and considerable vistas in the world. The Church is most elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common cloyster being all layd with variously polish'd marbles richly figur'd. They shew'd us a massie crosse of silver much celebrated for the work- manship and carving, and sayd to have been 14 yeares in perfecting. The Quire also is of rare arte ; but above all to be admii-'d is the yet unfinish'd Church of the Jesuites, certainly if accomplished not to be equal'd in Europe. Hence we pass'd by the Palazzo Caraffi, full of ancient and very noble statues ; also the Palace of the Ursini. Thci next day we did little but visite some friends, English merchants resi- dent for their negotiation ; onely this morning at the Viceroy's Cavale- rizzo I saw the noblest horses that I had ever beheld, one of his sonns riding the menage with that addresse and dexterity as I had never scene any thing approch it. 4 Feb. We were invited to the colleccion of exotic rarities in the Museum of Ferdinando Impcrati, a Neapolitan nobleman, and one of the most observable palaces in the Citty, the repository of incompara- ble rarities. Amongst the naturall Herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina and Pinna mariria j the male and female Camelion ; an Onacratulus ; an extraordinary greate Crocodile ; some of the Orcades Ajiaies, held here for a great rarity ; likewise a Salamander; the male and female Manucodiata, the male having an hollow in the back, in which 'tis reported the female both layes and hatches her egg; the Mandragoras of both sexes ; Papyrus made of severall reedcs, and some of silke ; tables of the rinds of trees written with Japoniq characters ; another of the branches of palme ; many Indian fruites ; a chiystal that had a quantity of uncongealed water within its cavity; a petrified fishers net ; divers sorts of Tarantulas, being a monstrous spider with lark like clawes, and somewhat bigger. 5 Feb. "The next day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, which was very splendid for the reliques, banners, and musiq, which accom- panied the B. Sacrament. The ceremony tooke up most of the mornmg. 6 Feb. We went by coach to take the ayre, and see the diversions or rather maddnesse of the Carnival ; the courtisans (who swarme in this Citty to the number, as we are told, of 30,000, registred and pay- ing a tax to the State) Ringing eggs of sweete v/ater into our coach as we passed by the houses and windows. Indeed thetowne is so pester d 126 ASCENT OF VESUVIUS, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE VOLCANO. wilh these cattell, that there needes no small mortification to preserve from their enchantment, whilst they display all their naturall and ar- tificial! beauty, play, sing, feigne compliment, and by a thousand stu- died devices seeke to inveigle foolish young men. 7. The next day being Saturday we went 4 miles out of towne on mules to see that famous Volcano Mount Vesuvius. Here we passe a faire fountaine cal'd Labulla, which continually boyles, suppos'd to pro- ceed from Vesuvius, and thence over a river and bridg, where on a large upright stone is engraven a notable inscription relative to the memorable eruption in 1630. Approching the hill as we were able with our mules, we alighted crawling up the rest of the proclivity with great difficulty, now with our feete, now with our hands, not withou<^ many untoward slipps which did much bruise us on the various colour'd cinders with which the whole mountaine is cover'd, some like pitch, others full of perfect brim- stone, others metaliq, interspers'd with innumerable pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last gain'd the sum'it of an exces- sive altitude ; turning our faces towards Naples, it presents one of the goodliest prospects in the world ; all the Baiae, Cuma, Elyssian Fields, Capreas, Ischia, Prochita, Misenus, Puteoli, that goodly Citty, with a great portion of the. Tyrrhen Sea, offering themselves to your view at once, and at so al proble a distance, as nothing can be more delight- full. The moifirne. their rrdsts of a double top, the one pointed very sharp, and com'only a^rpA^^ring above any clouds, the other blunt. Here as we approch'd we met many large gaping clefts and chasms, out of which issued such sulphureous blasts and smoke that we durst not stand long neere them. Having gain'd the very summit, I layd myself downe to loolce over and into that most frightfull and terrible vorago, a stupendious pit of neere three miles in circuit and halfe a mile in depth, by a perpendicular hollow clifle (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at the bottom is plaine like an even'd floore, which seemes to be made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy blasts. In the middle and center is a hill shaped like a greate browne loafe, appearing to consist of sulphurous matter, continualy vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting huge stones with an impetuous noise and roar- ing like the report of many musquets discharging. This horrid Bara- thrum engaged our attention for some houres, both for the strangnesse of the spectacle and the mention which the old histories make of it, as one of the most stupendious curiosities in nature, and which made the learned and inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes, and to loose it in too desperate an approch. It is likewise famous for the stratagem of the rebell Spartacus, who did so much mischiefe to the State, lurkmg amongst and protected by these horrid caverns, when It was more accessible and lesse dangerous than now it is ; but especialy THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 127 notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in anno 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever don in the memory of history, throwing out huge stones and fiery pumices in such quantity as not onely invi- ron'd the whole mountaine, but totaly buried and overwhelm'd divers townes and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more than an hun- dred miles, and utterly devastating all those vineyards where formerly grew the most incomparable Greco ; when bursting thro' the bowels ot the earth it absorb'd the very Sea, and with its whirling waters drew in divers gallyes and other vessells to their destruction, as is faithfully re- corded. We descended with more ease than we climb'd up, thro' a deepe vallie of pure ashes, which at the late eruption was a flowing river of mealted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules at the foote of the mountaine. On Sunday we with our guide visited the so much celebrated Bais and natural rarities of the places adjacent. Here we enter the moun- taine Pausilipo, at the left hand of which they shew'd us Virgil's sepul- chre erected on a steepe rock, in forme of a small rotunda or cupolated columne, but almost overgrowne with bushes and wild baye trees. At the entrance is this inscription : Stanisi Cencovius. 1589. Qui cineres ? Tumuli haec vestigia, conditur olim Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces. Can. Ree MDLIII.' After we were advanc'd into this noble and altogether wonderful! crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough for two coaches to go on breast, cut thro' a rocky mountaine neere three quarters of a mile, (by the ancient Cimmerii as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who employ'd an hundred thousand men on it,) we came to the mid- way, where there is a well bor'd through the diameter of this vast moun- taine, which admitts the light into a pretty chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, wherein^ hang divers lamps perpetualy burning. The way is pav'd under foote, but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively in this much frequented passage that we were forc'd at mid- day to use a torch. At length we were deliver'd from the bowels of the earth into one of the most dehcious plaines in the world : the oranges, lemons, pomegranads, and other fruites, blushing yet on the perpetualy greene trees ; for the summer is here eternal, caus'd by the natural and adventitious heate of the earth, warm'd through the subterranean fires, 1 Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr, Evelyn ; but as its sense is not very clear, and as the Diary contains instances of incorrectness in transcribing, the Editor has thought it de- sirable to subjoin the distich said by Keysler in his Travels, vol. II. p. 433. to be the only one in the whole mausoleum : " Quae cineris tumulo haec vestigia ? conditur olim Ille hoc qui cecinit, pascua, rura, duces." 128 LAGO DI AGNANO ; CHARON'S CAVE ; COURT OF VULCAN. as was shewn us by our guide, who alighted, and cutting up a turf with his knife, and delivering it to me, was so hot I was hardly able to hold it in my hands. This mountaine is exceedingly fruitfull in vines, and exotics grow readily. We now came to a lake of about two miles in circumference, inviron'd with hills ; the water of it is fresh and swete on the surface, but salt at botome, some mineral salt conjectured to be the cause, and 'tis reported of that profunditude in the middle that it is botomelesse. The people call it Lago di Agnano from the multitude of serpents which involved together about the spring fall downe from the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor will any live in it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or four paces deepe, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. Whatever having life enters it presently expires. Of this we made tryal with two doggs, one of which we bound to a short pole to guide him the more directly into the further part of the den, where he was no sooner enter'd, but without the least noyse, or so much as a struggle, except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, his eyes being fix'd ; we drew him out dead to all appearance, but im- mediately plunging him into the adjoyning lake, within lesse than halfe an houre he recover'd, and swimming to shore ran away from us. We tried the same on another dogg without the application of the water, and left him quite dead. The experiment has iDeen made on men, as on that poore creature whom Peter of Toledo caus'd to go in ; likewise on some Turkish slaves ; two souldiers, and other foole-hardy persons, who all perished, and could never be recover'd by the water of the lake as are doggs, for which many learned reasons have ben offer'd, as Simon Majolus in his booke of the Canicular-dayes has mention'd, colloq. 15. And certainely the most likely is, the effect of those hot and dry vapours which ascend out of the earth and are condensed by the ambient cold, as appeares by their converting into chrystaHne drops on the top, whilst at the botome 'tis so excessively hott that a torch being extinguished neere it, and lifted a little distance, was suddaincly relighted. Neere to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, of the nature of sudatories, in certaine chambers partition'd with stone for the sick to sweate in, the vapours here being exceedingly hot, and of admirable successe in the goute and other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence we climb'd up an hill, the very highway in several places even smoaking with heate like a fournace. The mountaines were by the Greekes called Leucoyei, and the fields Phlagrean. Hercules here vanquished the Gyants assisted with lightning. We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a valley neere a quarter of a mile in breadth, the margent inviron'd with steepe cliffes, out of whose sides and foote break forth fire and smoke in aboundance, making a noyse ike a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in lowd reports like so many guns. The heate of this place is wonderfull ; the earth THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 129 itselfe being almost unsufiferable, and which the subterranean fires have made so hollow, by having wasted the matter for so many yeares, that it sounds like a drum to those who walke upon it ; and the water thus struggling with those fires bubbles and spoutes aloft into the ayre. The mouthes of these spiracles are bestrew'd with variously-colour'd cinders, which rise with the vapour, as do many colour'd stones, according to the quality of the combustible matter, insomuch as 'tis no little adven- ture to approch them ; they are however daily frequented both by sick and well, the former receiving the fumes have been recover'd of diseases esteem'd incurable. Here we found a greate deal of sulphure made, which they refine in certaine houses neere the place, casting it into canes, to a very greate value. Neere this we were shew'd an hill of alume, where is one of the best mineries, yielding a considerable reve- nue. Some flow res of brasse are found here ; but I coaki Dot but smile at those who perswade themselves that here are the Gates of Purgatory, (for which it may be they have erected very neere it a Convent and named it St. Januarius,) reporting to have often heard screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from these caverns and volcanos ; with other legends of birds that are never seene save on Sundayes, which cast themselves into the lake at night, appearing no more all the weeke after. We now approach'd the ruines of a ver}' stately Temple or Theatre of 172 foote in length and about 80 in breadth, throwne downe by an earthquake not long since ; it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are many strange meanders, from which it is nam'd the Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with batts that their perpetual flut- tering endanger'd the putting out our linkes. Hence we passed againe those boiling and smoking hills till we came to Puzzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, the landing-place of St. Paulc when he came into Italy after the tempest described in the Acts of the Apostles. Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medailes and other curiosities, antiquities, &c. of the country people, who daily find such things amongst the very old ruines of those places. This Towne was formerly a Greeke Colonie, built by the Samians, a reason- able commodious Port, and full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruines of Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and neere it the stately palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo, formerly mentioned. Afterwards we visited that admirably built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn out of an intire rock, tho' in- deede consisting of several square stones. The inscription remames thus, " L. Calphurnius L. E. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis D.^D. and under it ; " L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus Architectus. It is now converted into a Church, in which they shew'd us huge bones which they affirme to have ben of some gyant. . , u t We went tp see the ruines of the old Haven, so compact with that 9 EARTHQUAKES. LUCRINE LAKE. LAKE AVERNUS. bituminous sand in which the materials are layd, as the like is hardly to be found, though all this has not ben sufficient to protect it from the fatal concussions of several earthquakes (frequent here) which hav« almost demolish'd it, 13 vast piles of marble onely remaining, a stu- pendous worke in the bosome of Neptune ! To this joynes the bridg of Caligula, by which (having now embarq'd ourselves) we sail'd to the pleasant Baiae, almost 4 miles in length, all which way that prowd Emperor would passe in triumph. Here we row'd along towards a villa of the orator Cicero's, where we were shew'd the ruines of his Academy, and at the foote of a rock his Bathes, the waters reciprocat- ing their tides with the neighbouring sea. Hard at hand rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I concciv'd, nothing save an heape of pumices, which here floate in aboundance on the sea, exhausted of all inflam- mable matter by the fire, which renders ihem light and porous, so as the beds of nitre which lye deepe under them having taken fire dos easily eject them. They dig much for fancied treasure said to be conceiFd about this place. From hence we coasted neere the ruines of Portus Julius, where we might see divers stately palaces that had ben swallow'd up by the sea after earthquakes. Coming to shore we passe by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore for its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being divided from the sea by a banke of incredible labour, the suppos'd worke of Hercules ; 'tis now halfe chock'd up with rubbish, and by part of the new mountaine, which rose partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the space of one night and a day, to neere the altitude of a mile, on the 29 Sept. 1538, after many terrible earthquakes which ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight the sea retiring neere 200 paces, and yawning on the sudaine, it con- tinued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in such quantity as pro- duced this whole mountaine by their fall, making the inhabitants of Puzzole to leave their habitations, supposing the end of the world had ben come. From the left part of this we walked to the Lake Avernus, of a round forme, and totaly inviron'd with mountaines. This lake was fain'd by the Poete for the gates of Hell, by which ^Eneas made his descent, and where they sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters are of a remarkable black colour, but I tasted of them without «langer ; hence they faigne that the rivtr Styx has its source. At one side stand the handsome ruines of a Temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but 'tis controverted. Opposite to this, having new lighted our torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gon about two hundred paces, we passe a narrow entry which lead us into a roome of about 10 paces long, proportionable broad and high ; the side walls and roofe retaine still the golden Mosaiq, though now exceedingly dccay'd by tune. Here is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of the %oUd rock, somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report that THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYW. the Sibylla lay and uttered her oracles ; but is supposed by most to have been a bath onely. This subterranean grott leads quite through to Cuma, but is in some places obstructed by the earth which has sunk in, so as we were constrain'd back againe &: to creep on our bellys beiore we came to the light. 'Tis reported Nero had once resolved to cut a channel for two greate gallys that should have extended to Ostia, an 150 miles distant. The people now call it Licola. From hence we ascended to that most ancient Citty of Italy, the re- nowned Cuma, built by the Grecians. It stands on a very eminent pro- montory, but is now an heape of ruines. A little below stands the Arco Felice, heretofore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers goodly buildings ; amongst whose heapes are frequently found statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for them. Neere this is the Lake Acherutia and Acheron. Returning to the shore we came to the Bagnie de Tritoli and Diana, which are onely long narrow pas- sages cut through the maine rock, where the vapours ascend so hot that entring with the body erect you will even faint with excessive perspi- ration, but stooping lower as suddaine a cold surprizes. These suda- tories are much in request for many infirmityes. Now we enter'd the haven of the Baiae, where once stood that famous Towne, so call'd from the Companion of Ulysses here buried ; not without greate reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that the sunn shines on, according to that of Horace : " NuUus in Orbe locus Bails praelucet amoenis." Though as to the stately fabrics there now remaine little save the ruines, whereof the most intire is that of Diana's Temple, and another of Venus. Here were those famous pooles of lampreys that would come to hand when call'd by name, as Martial tells us. On the sum'ite of the rock stands a strong Castle garison'd to protect the shore from Turkish Pyrates. It was once the retyring place of Julius Ceesar. Passing by the shore againe we entered Bauli, observable from the monstrous murther of Nero com'itted on his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre was yet shew'd us in the rock, which we enter d, being cover'd with sundry heads and figures of beasts. We saw there the rootes of a tree turn'd into stone, and are continualy dropping. Thus having view'd the foundations of the old Cimeria, the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and other villas and antiquities, we proceeded towards the Promontor)^ of Misenus, renown'd for the sepulchre of ^Eneas's Trumpeter. 'Twas once a greate Citty, nov hardly a ruine, sayd to have ben built from this place to the Promon- tory of Minerva, 50 miles distant, now discontinu'd and demolish d by the frequent earthquakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tiberius Caesar died ; and here runs the Aqua,duct, thought to be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly arched with marble, as the ruines testifie. Hence we walked to those receptacles 132 THE ELYSIAN FIELDS ; PUZZOLO ; ANTIQUITIES. of water cal'd Piscina Mirabilis, being a vault of 500 feel long, and 22 in breadth, the roofe prop'd up with 4 rankes of square pillars, 12 in a row ; the walls are brick plaster'd over with such a composi- tion as for strength and politure resembles white marble. 'Tis con- ceiv'd to have ben built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ; as were also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led. All these Crypta being now almost sunke into the earth, shew yet their former amplitude and magnificence. Returning towards the Baiae we againe passe the Elyssian Fields, so celebrated by the Poetes, nor unworthily, for their situation and verdure, being full of myrtils and sweete shrubs, and having a most delightful prospect towards the Tyrrhen Sea. Upon the verge of these remaine the ruines of the Mercato di S:'bato, formerly a Circus ; over the arches stand divers urnes full of Roman ashes. Having well satisfied our curiosity among these Antiquities, we retir'd to our felucca, which row'd us back againe towards Puzzolo, at the very place of St. Paule's landing. Keeping along the shore they shew'd us a place where the sea- water and sands did exceedingly boyle. Thence to the Island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus we leave the Baiie, so renowned for the sweete retirements of the most opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly were places of uncom- mon amoenitie, as their yet tempting site and other circumstances of natural curiosities easily invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so many stupendious rarities to be met with as in the circle of a few miles which inviron these blissfull aboades. 8 Feb. We went to see the Arsenal, well furnish'd with gallies and other vessells. The Citty is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. The Government is held of the Pope by an annual tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white Genet ; but the Spanyard trusts more to the power of those his natural subjects there ; Apulia and Calabria yielding him neere 4 millions of crownes yearely to maintaine it. The country is divided into 13 Provinces, 20 Archbishops, and 107 Bishops. The estates of the nobility in default of the male line, reverting to the King. Besides the Vice-Roy there is amongft the Chiefe Magistrates an High Constable, Admiral, Chiefe Justice, Create Chamberlaine, and Chanrelor, with a Secretary ; these being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully inrich themselves out of the miserable people's labour, silks, manna, sugar, oyle, wine, rice, sulphur, and alome, for with all these riches is this delicious country blest. The manna falls at certain seasons on the adjoyning hills in forme of a thick dew. The very winter here is a Summer, ever fruitful!, so that in the middle of Feb- /uary we had melons, cherics, abricols, and many other sorts of fruite. ^ The building of the Citty is for the size the most magnificent of any in Europe, the streetes exceeding large, well paved, having many vaults and conveyances under them for thesuliage, which renders them very THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. sweete and cleane even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 3000 Churches and monasteries, and those the best built and adorn'd of any in Italy. They greately affect the Spanish gravity in their habite ; delight in good horses ; the streetes are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches and sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir Sanders Duncomb. The women are generaly well featur'd but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial and addicted to musick, that the very husbandmen almost universaly play on the guitarr, singing and composing songs in prayse of their sweete- hearts, and wil commonly goe to the field with their fiddle ; they are merry, witty, and genial, all which I much attribute to the excellent quahty of the ayre. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that some our company were flouted at for wearing red cloakes, as the mode then was. This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently sated with rolling up and downe, and resolving within myselfe to be no longer an individmim vagtim if ever I got home againe, since from the report of divers experienced and curious persons I had ben assur'd there was little more to be seene in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, France, Flanders, and the Low Country, but plaine and prodigious barbarisme. Thus about Feb. 7 we set out on our return to Rome by the same way we came, not daring to adventure by Sea, as some of our company were incHn'd to do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that coast ; nor made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated place and sepulchre of the famous Duelists who decided the ancient quarrell betweene their imperious neighbours with the loss of their lives. These brothers, the Horatij and Curiatij, lye buried neere the highway, under two ancient pyramids of stone, now somewhat decay 'd and overgrowne with rubbish. We tooke the opportunity of tasting the wine here, which is famous. Being arived at Rome on Feb. 13 we were againe invited to Signor Angeloni's study, where with greater leysure we survey 'd the rarities, as his cabinet and medaills especialy, esteem'd one of the best collections of them in Europe. He also shew'd us two antiq lamps, one of them dedicated to Palas, the other Laribus Sacru\ as appeared by their in- scriptions ; some old Roman rings and keyes ; the i^gyptian Isis cast in yron ; sundry rare bas-reUevos ; good pieces of paynting, pnnci- pally the Christ of Corregio, with this painter's owne face admirably don by himselfe : divers of both the Bassanos ; a greate number of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs; an infinity of naturall rarities, dry'd animals, Indian habits and weapons, shells, &c. ; divers very antiq statues of brasse; some lamps of so fine an earth that they resembled cornelians for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corin- thian brasse, and one greate nayle of the same mettal found in the ruines of Nero's golden house. 134 TRANSTEVERE ; SANTA CECILIA ; TEMPLE OF -«SCULAPIUS. In the afternoone we ferried over to Transtevere, to the Palace of Gichi, to review the works of Raphael : and returning by St. Angelo, we saw the Castle as far as was permitted, and on the other side con- sidered those admirable pilasters suppos'd to be of the foundation of the Pons Sublicius, over which Hor. Codes pass'd ; here ankor 3 or 4 water-mills invented by Belizarius ; and thence had another sight of the Farnesi's gardens, and of the tarrace where is that admirable paynting of Raphael, being a Cupid playing with a Dolphiti^ wrought h fresca, preserv'd in shutters of wainscott, as well it merites, being cer- tainely one of the most wonderful pieces of worke in the world. 14 Feb. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and endow'd by Cardinal Sfrondaeti, who has erected a stately altar neere the body of this martyr, not long before found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veile on her head, and the bloody scarrs of 3 wounds on the neck ; the body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it in snow-white marble. Other Saints lie here decorated with splendid ornaments, lamps, and incensories of greate cost. A little farther they shew us the Bathe of St. Cecilia, to which joynes a Convent of Friers, where is the picture of the Flagellatio7i by Vanni, and the columns of the Portico taken from the Bathes of Septimius Severus. 15 Feb, Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tiber and visited the Stola Tybertina (now St. Bartholomew's), formerly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with marble, in which a lofty obelisq represented the mast. In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the Apostle. Here are the mines of the Temple of ^sculapius, now con- verted into a stately Hospital and a pretty Convent. Opposite to it is the Convent and Church of St. John Calabita, where I saw nothing re- markable save an old broken altar. Here v/as the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. Hence we went to a cupola, now a Church, formerly dedi- cated to the Sun. Opposite to it Santa Maria Schola Grseca, where for- merly that tongue was taught, said to be the second Church dedicated m Rome to the Bl. Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalat. Behmd this stands the greate altar of Hercules, much demolish'd. Neere this, being at the foote of Mount Avantine, are the Pope's salt- houses. Ascending the hill we came to St. Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana ; there in a Chapel is an admirable picture, the work of Livia Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and in the middle of the Church is a stone, cast as they report, by the Devil at St. Dominic whilst he was at masse. Hence we travelled towards an heape of rubbish called the Mar7norata on the bank of the Tyber, a magazine of stones, and neere which formerly stood a triumphal arch in honor of Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruines of the Dndg yet appcare. We were now got to Mons Test.Tceus, an heape of potshards almost 200 loote high, thought to have ben amassed and thrown there by the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. '35 subjects of the Commonwealth bringing their tribute in earthen ves- sells, others (more probably) that it was a quarter of the townc where potters lived ; at the sum'it Rome affords a noble prospect. Before it is a spacious greene called the Hippodrom, where Olympic games were celebrated, and the people muster'd as in our London Artillerie-ground. Going hence to the old wall of the Citty, we much admir'd the pyramid or tomb of C. Cestius, of white marble, one of the most ancient intire monuments, inserted in the wall, with this inscription : " C. Cestius L. F. Pob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr.pl. VII. Vir. Epuionum." And a little beneath : " Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti P. F. Cla. Melae Heredis et Pothi L." At the left hand is the Port of St. Caule, once Tergemina, out of which the 3 Horatii pass'd to encounter the Curiatii of Albano. Henee bending homewards by St. Saba, by Antoninus's Bathes (which we enter'd) is the marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the walls and stately ruines shew the enormous magnitude of these Bathes. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, we vicw'd the place where stood the Septizonium, demolished by Sixtus V. for feare of its faUing. Going by M. Coelius we beheld the devotions of St. Maria inNavicula, so nam'd from a ship carv'd out in white marble standing on a pedestal before it, suppos'd to be the vowe of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a glorious front to the streete. Adjoining to this are the Horti Mathaei, which only of all the places about the Citty I omitted visiting, tho' I was told inferiour to no garden in Rome for statues, ancient mo- numents, aviaries, fountaines, groves, and especialy a noble obelisq, and maintained in beauty at the expense of 6000 crownes yearely, which if not expended to keepe up its beauty forfeits the possession of a greater revenue to another family ; so curious are they in their villas and places of pleasure, even to excesse. The next day we went to the once famous Circus Caracalla, in the midst of which there now lay prostrate one of the most stately and an- cient Obelisks, full of Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was broken into 4 pieces when o'rethrowne by the Barbarians, and would have ben pur- chased and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas Earle of Arundel, could it have ben well removed to the sea. This is since set together and placed on the stupenduous artificial rock made by Innocent X. and serving for a fountaine in Piazza Navona, the workc of Bernini, the Pope's Architect. Neere this is the Sepulchre of Metellus, of massy stone, pretty entire, now caFd Capo di Bove. Hence to a small Oratorie nam'd Domine quo vadis, where the tradition is, that our B. Saviour met St. Peter as he fled, and turne'd him back againe. St. Sebastians was the next, a meane structure (the faciata excepted) but is venerable especialy for the reliques and grotts in which lie the ashes of many holy men. Here is kept the pontificial chaire spnnklcd 136 ACADEMY OF THE HUMORISTS. WASHING OF PILGRIM'S FEET. with the blood of Pope Stephen, to which greate devotion is paid ; also a well full of Martyres bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebastian, with one of the arrowes [used in shooting him] ; these are preserved by the Fulgentine Monks, who have here their Monasterie, and who led us down into a grotto which they affinn'd went divers furlongs under ground ; the sides or walls which we passed were fill'd with bones and dead bodies, laid as it were on shelfes, whereof some were shut up with broad stones, and now and then a crosse or a palme cut in them, At the end of some of these subterranean passages were square roomes with altars in them, said to have ben the receptacles of primitive Chris- tians in the times of persecution, nor seems it improbable. 17 Feb. I was invited after dinner to the Academic of the Humorists kept in a spacious hall belonging to Signer Mancini, where the Witts of the towne meete on certaine dales to recite poems, and debate on severall subjects. The first that speakes is cal'd the Lord, and stands in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Virtuosi recite in order. By these ingenious exercises, besides the learn'd discourses, is the purity of the Italian tongue daily improv'd. The roome is hung round with devises or emblcmes, with mottos under them. There are severall other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical titles. In this of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini, the famous author of the Pastor Fido, once of this society. The cheife part of the day we spent in hear- ing the academic exercises. 18 Feb. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere ; it has a faire front, and within are parts of the bodys of St. Mark and Marcellino ; on the Tribuna is a painting of Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval Baglioni, with some other rare paintings. Coming round from hence we passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now totaly in ruines. In the afternoon we visited the English Jesuites, with whose Superior, P. Stafford, I was well acquainted ; who received us courteously. They call their Church and College St. Thomasso de gli higlesi, and is a Seminarie. Amongst other trilles they shew the relicq of Beckett, their - eputed Martyr. Of paintings there is one of Durante, and many repre- senting the sufferings of severall of their society executed in England, especialy F. Champion. In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita I had seen the feele of many pilgrims wash'd by Princes, Cardinals, and Noble Romans and serv'd at table, as the Ladys and Noble Women did to other poore creatures in another roome 'Twas told us that no lesse than ^^1 ;^^ men had ben thus treated in the Jubilee of 1,600 and 25,500 women, as appeares by the register, which brings store of money. Returning homeward I saw the Palace of Cardinal Spada, where is a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel da Volterra and Giulio Pia- ccntino, who made the fret in the Uttle Court ; but the rare perspectives are of Bologncsi. Neere this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a Bank THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 137 for the Poore, who, if the sum be not greate, may have mony upon pawns, &c. To this joynes St. Martino, to which belongs a Schola ol Corporation that do many works of charity. Hence we came through Ca?npo di Fiori, or Herb Market, in the midst of which is a fountaine casting water out of a dolphin in coper ; and in this Piazza is common execution don. I went this afternoone to visite my Lord John Somerset, brother to the Marques of Worcester, who had his appartment in Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to Cardinal Francesco Barberini as Vice-chan- celor of the Church of Rome and Protector of the English. The build- ing is of the famous architect Bramante, of incrusted marble, with 4 ranks of noble lights ; the principal enterance is of Fontana's dcsigne, and all of marble ; the portico within sustain'd by massie columns ; on the second peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by Salviati and Vasari ; and so ample is this Palace that six Princes with their families have ben received in it at one time, without incommod- ing each other. 20 Feb. I went (as was my usual costome) and spent an afternoone in Piazza Navona, as well to see what antiquities I could purchase among the people who hold mercat there for medaills, pictures, and such curiosities, as to heare the Montebanks prate and distribute their medicines. This was formerly the Circus or Agonates^ dedicated to sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mercat of the Citty, having three most noble fountaines, and the stately Palaces of the Pamfilij, St. Giacomo de Spagnoli belonging to that nation, to which add two Con- vents for Friers and Nuns, all Spanish. In this Church was erected a most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente. for the death of the Oueene of Spaine ; the Church was nung wiin black, and heare 1 heard a Spanish sermon or funebral oration, and observed tlie statues, devises, and impreses hung about the walls, the Church and Pyramid stuck with thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious shew. The statue of St. James is by Sansovino; there are also some good pictures of Carr^cci. The facciata too is faire. Returning home I pass'd by the stumps of old Pasquin at the corner of a streete call'd Strada Pontificia; here they still past up their drolling lampoons and scurrilous papers. This had formerly ben one of the best statues for workmanship and art in all the Citty, as the remaining bust does still shew. 21 Feb. I walked in the morning up the hill towards the Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Onufrio (brother to the late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order. He built them a pretty Church, full of rare pictures, and there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does miracles. The piece at the great ahar is by Lanfranc. *Tis a lofty edifice, with a beautilull avenue of trees, and in a good aire. After dinner passing along the Strada del Carso, I observed the column of Antoninus, passing under Arco PortugaUo, wbich is but a relic, hereto- 138 THE PANTHEON, ANCIENT MAGNIFICENCE AND PRESENT STATE. fore erected in honor of Domitian, cal'd now Portugallo from a Cardinal living neere it. A little turther on the right hand stands the column, in a small piazza, heretofore set up in honor of M. Aurelius Antoninus, comprehending in a basse-relievo of white marble his hostil acts against the Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. but it is now somewhat decayU On the su'mit has been placed the image of St. Paule of gilded coper. The pillar is said to be i6i foote high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving light by 56 apertures, without defacing the sculpture. At a little distance are the relicques of the Emperors Palace, the heads of whose pillars shew them to have ben Corinthian. Turning a little down we came to another piazza, in which stands a sumptuous vase of porphyrie, and a faire fountainc ; but the grace of this merket, and indeede the admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, now called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all the Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquitie of the Citty. It was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the architrave of the portico sus- tain'd by 13 pillars of Theban marble, 6 foote thick and 53 in height, of one intire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. Entring the Church we admire the labric, wholly cover'd with one cupola, seemingly suspended in the aire, and receiving light by a hole in the middle onely. The structure is neere as high as broad, viz, 144 foote, not counting the thicknesse of the walls, which is 22 more to the top, all of white marble, and til Urban VIII. converted part of the metall into ordnance to warr against the Duke of Parma, and part to make the high altar in St. Peters, it was all over cover'd with Corinthian brasse, ascending by 40 degrees within the roof or convex of the cupola, richly carved with octagons in the stone. There are niches in the walls, in which stood heretofore the statues of Jupiter and the other Gods and Goddesses ; for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the other Union, that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and drink up as she had done its fellow. There are severall of these niches one above another for the celestial, terrestrial, and subterranean deities, but the place is now converted into a Church dedicated to the B. Virgin and all the Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding gates of Corinthian brasse. Inaword,'tis of all the Roman antiquities the most worthy of notice. There lie interred in this Temple the famous Raphao' da Urbmo, Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. ' And in the cup an union shall he throw Richer than that which four successive kings In Denmark's crown have worn. Shakespeare, Hamlet, Act V. Sc. 2 ; ed. Johnsan and Steevens. Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all crowns and coronets btcevens cites from Soliinan and Perseda-' Ay, were it Cleopatra's ««/W-add. tag the following elucidation of the term from P. Holland's Translation of Pliny's Natural nistoiy : And hereupon it is that our dainties and delicates here at Rome. &c. call thea* unions, as am.in would say sir.x'iiar aad by themselves alone.' Edit THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ,3(^ Returning home we passe by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, which is the grace of the whole Corso. 22 Feb. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monasterie of French, a noble Church built by Lewis XI. and Charles VIII. the Chapells well painted, especialy that by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloyster with the miracles of their St. Francis di Paulo and the heads of the French Kings. In the pergolo above, the walls are wrought with excellent perspective, especialy the St. John ; there are the Babylonish dials invented by Kircher the Jesuite. This Convent so eminently situated on Mons Pincius, has the intire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a faire garden which joynes to the Palazzo di Medici. 23rd. I went to heare a sermon at St. Giacomo de gU Incurabili, a faire Church built by F. Volaterra, of good architecture, and so is the Hospital, where only desperate patients are brought. I pass'd the evening at St. Maria del Copolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his ashes lay many yeares in a marble chest. To this Church joynes the Monasterie of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens on Mons Cin- cius, and in the Church is the miraculous shrine of the Madona which Pope Paul III. brought barefooted to the place, supphcating for a vic- tory over the Turks in 1464. In a Chapell of the Ghisi are some rare paintings of Raphael and noble sculptures. Those two in the Choire are by Sansovino, and in the Chapel de Cerasii a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many greate scholars and artists, of which I tooke notice of this inscription : Hospes, disce novum mortis genus ; improba felis, Dum trahitur, digitum mordet, et intereo. Opposite to the faciata of the Church is a superb obelise full of hiero- glyphics, the same that Sennesertus K. of Egypt dedicated to the Sun, brought to Rome by Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since placed here by Pope Sixtus V. It is 88 foote high, of one intire stone, and placed with greate art and engines by the famous Domenico Fontana. Hence turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, we came to Justinian's gardens neere the Muro torto, so prominently built as threat- ning every moment to fall, yet standing so for these thousand yeares. Under this is the burying-place for the com'on prostitutes, where they are put into the ground sans ceremonie. 24 Feb. We walked to St. Roches and Martines neere the brink of the Tyber, a large Hospital for both sexes. Hence to the Mausolasum Augusti 'twixt the Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruin'd, which had formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It wasmtended as a cemeterie for the Roman Emperors, had twelve ports, and was cover'd with a cupola of white marble, inviron'd with stately trees and innumerable statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We pass d i40 BAPTISM OF A JEW AND TURK. THE PILLAR OF TRAJAN. the afternoone at the sapienza, a very stately building full of good mar- bles, especialy the Portico, of admirable architecture. These are properly the Universitie Scholes, where lectures are read on law, medicine, and anatomie, and students perform their exercises. Hence we walk'd to St. Andrea della Valle neere the former Theater of Fompey, and the famous Piccolomini, but given to this Church and the Order who are Theatines. The Barberini have in this place a Chapell, of curious incrusted marbles of severall sorts, and rare paint- ings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is said to have been beaten with rods before he was shot with darts. The cupola is paynted by Lanfranc, an inestimable work, and the whole fabric and Monastery adjoining are admirable. 25 Feb. I was invited by a Dominican Frier, whom we usually heard preach to a number of Jewes, to be god-father to a converted Turk and Jew. The ceremonie was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la Minerva, neere the Capitol. They were clad in white, then exorcis'd at their entering the Church with aboundance of cere- monies, and when led into the Choir were baptiz'd by a Bishop in p07itificalibus. The Turk lived afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters, and would bring us presents when he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believ'd to be a counterfeit. This Church, situate on a spacious rising, was formerly consecrated to Minerva. 'Tis well built and richly adorn'd, and the body of St. Catherine di Sienna lies buried here. The paintings of the Chapel are by Marcello Venuti ; the Madona over the altar is by Giov. di Fiesole, cal'd the Angelic Painter, who was of the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt pubhqly here, especialy at the Proces- sion on the Annunciation, when I saw his Holinesse, with all the Car- dinals, Prelates, &c. in pontificalibus j dowries being given to 300 poore girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on his head, and was carried on mens shoulders in an open arm-chaire, blessing the people as he pass'd. The statue of Christ at the Columna is esteem'd one of the master-pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings by the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of the sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We return'd by St. Marcs, a stately Church, with an excellent pavement, and a fine piece by Peru- gino, of the two Martyrs. Adjoyning to this is a noble Palace built by the famous Bramanti. 26 F eb. Ascending the hiU we came to the Forum Trajanum, where his column stands yet intire, wrought with admirable bass-relievo re- cordmg the Dacian war, the figures at the upper part appearing of the iame proportion with those below. 'Tis ascended by 192 steps, en- lightened with 44 apertures or windows, artificialy disposed ; in height from the pedestal 140 foote. It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where now stands THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. St. Peter's of gilt brasse, erected by Pope Sixtus V. The sculpture of this stupendioiis pillar is thought to be the work of Apollodonis ; but what is very observable is the descent to the plinth of the pedestale, shewing how this ancient Cittie lies now buried in her mines, this monument being at first set up on a rising ground. After dinner we took the aire in Cardinal Bentivoglio's delicious gardens, now but newly deceas'd. He had a faire Palace built by several good masters on part of the ruines of Constantine's Bathes : well adorn'd with columns and paintings, especialy those of Guido Rhcni. 27 Feb. In the morning Mr. Henshaw and my selfe walked to the Trophies of Marius, erected in honour of his victorie over the Cim- brians, but these now taken out of their niches are plac'd on the balusters of the Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruine. Keeping on our way we came to St. Crosse of Jerusalem, built by Constantine over the demolition of the Temple of Venus and Cupid, which he threw down ; and 'twas here they report he deposited the wood of the true Crosse found by his mother Helena in honour whereof this Church was built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when that holy signe appear'd to him. The edifice without is Gotiq, but very glorious within, especialy the roofe, and one tribune well painted. Here is a Chapel dedicated to St. Helena, the floore whereoff is of earth brought from Jerusalem ; the walls are of faire Mosaic, in which they suffer no women to enter it save once a yeare. Under the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in Lydian marble, and Bene- dict VII. and they shew a number of reliques, expos'd at our request, with a phial of our B. Saviour's blood ; two thornes of his Crowne ; three chips of the real Crosse ; one of the nailes, wanting a point ; St. Thomas's doubting finger ; and a fragment of the title [put on the Cross], being part of a thin board ; some of Judas's pieces of silver, and many more, if one had faith to believe it. To this venerable Church joynes a Monasterie, the gardens taking up the space of an ancient amphitheater. Hence we pass'd beyond the walls out at the Port of St. Laurence to that Saint's Church, and where his ashes are enshrin'd. This was also built by the sarne great Constantine, famous for the Coronation of Pietro Altisiodorensis, Emperor of Constantino- ple, by Honorius the Second. Tis sayd the corps of St. Stephen the protomartyr was deposited here by that of St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touch'd but Sebastian gave it place of its own accord. The Church has no less than 7 privileg'd altars and excellent pictures. About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferings, and when they built them, the bones of divers Saints were translated to other Churches. The front is Gotic. In our return we saw a small ruine of an aquae- duct built by Q. Marcius the praetor ; and so pass'd thro' that mcom- parable strait streete leading to Santa Maria Maggiore. to our lodging, sufficiently tired. 142 THE CARNIVAL AT ROME. BLESSING THE GOLDEN ROSES. We were taken up next morning in seeing the impertinences of the Carnival, when all the world are as mad at Rome as at other places ; but the most remarkable were the 3 races of the Barbarie horses, that run in the Strada del Corso without riders, onely having spurrs so placed on their backs, and hanging downe by their sides, as by their motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses, of buffalos, naked men, old and young, and boys, and aboundance of idle ridicu- lous passetime. One thing is remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on a cart, or plaustru7n^ where the scene or tirmg-place is made of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from streete to streete with a yoake or two of oxen, after the ancient guise. The streetes swarm with prostitutes, buffoones, and all man'er of rabble. I March. At the Greke Church we saw the Eastern ceremonies per- form'd by a Bishop, &c. in that tongue. Here the unfortunate Duke and Dutchess of Bullion received their ashes, it being the first day of Lent ; there was now as much trudging up and downe of devotees as the day before of licentious people, all Saints alike to appearance. The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very full of sta- tues and antiquities, especialy urnes, amongst which is that of Min. Felix; a Terminus that formerly stood in the Appian Way, and a huge colosse ot the Emperor Justinian. There is a delicate aviarie on the hill ; the whole gardens furnish'd with rare collections, fresh, shady, and adorn'd with noble fountaines. Continuing our walke a mile far- ther, we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where Constantine over- threw Maxentius, and saw the miraculous signe of the Cross, " in hoc sii^no vi?ices" It was a sweete morning, and the bushes were full of nightingals. Hence to Aqua Claudia againe, an aqueduct finish'd by that Emperor at the expense of 8 milhons. In the afternoone to Far- neze's gardens, neere the Campo Vaccino ; and upon the Palatine Mount to survey the ruines of Juno's Temple in the Piscina, a Piazza so call'd neere the famous bridg built by Antoninus Pius and re-edified by Pope Sixtus IV. The rest of this weeke we went to the Vatican, to heare the sermons at St. Peter's of the most famous preachers, who discourse on the same subjects and texts yearely, full of Itahan eloquence and action. On our Lady-day, 25 March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the Minerva, the greate guns ot the Castle St. Angelo being fired, when he gives portions to 500 ziielle [young women], who kisse his feete in procession, some destin'd to marry, some to be nunns. The scholars of the CoUedge celebrating the B. Virgin with their compositions. The next day his Holinesse was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent to severall greate Princes ; the Procurator of the Carmelites preaching on our Savior" s feeding the multitude with 5 loaves, the ceremony ends. The Sacrament being this day expos'd and the reliques oi the Holy Crosse, the concourse about the streetes is extraordinarie. On Palm Sunda:; there was a greate procession after a papal masse. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYl*. 143 II April. St. Veronica's handkercheif [with the impression of our Saviour's face] was expos'd, and the next day the speare, with a world ot ceremonie. On Holy Thursday the Pope said masse, and afterwardi carried the Host in procession about the Chapell, with an infinitie of tapers ; this linish'd, his Holinesse was carried in his open chaire on men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull in Ccena Domini^ he both curses and blesses all in a breath ; then the guns are againe fired. Hence he went to the Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he wash'd the feete of 12 poore men, with almost the same ceremonie as 'tis don at Whitehall ; they have clothes, a dinner, and almes, which he gives with his owne hands, and serves at their table ; they have also gold and silver medailles, but their garments are of white woUen long robes, as we paint the Apostles. The same ceremonies are don by the Conservators and other Officers of State at St. John de Lateran ; and now the table on which they say our Blessed Lord celebrated his last supper, is set out, and the heads of the Apostles. In every famous Church they are busy in dressing up their pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, of which we went to visite divers. On Good Friday we went againe to St. Peter's, where the Handker- chief, Launce, and Crosse were all expos'd and worshipped together. All the confession-seates were filled with devout people, and at night was a procession of several who most lamentably whipped themselves till the blood stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the bare back, having vizors and masks on their faces ; at every 3 or 4 steps dashing the knotted and ravelled whipcord over their shoulders, as hard as they could lay it on, whilst some of the religious orders and fraterni- ties sung in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, making altogether a horrible and indeede heathenish pompe. The next day there was much ceremony at St. John de Lateran, so as the whole weeke was spent in running from Church to Church, all the towne in buisy devotion, greate silence, and unimaginable superstition Easter-day I was awaken'd by the guns from St. Angelo : we went to St. Peter's, where the Pope himselfe celebrated masse, shew'd the reliques before named, and gave a publiq benediction. Monday we went to heare music in the Chiesa Nova, and tho' there were aboundance of ceremonies at the other greate Churches, and greate exposure of reliques, yet being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season of the yeare, summer, at Rome being very dangerous by reason of the heates, minding us of returning Northwards, we spent the rest of our time in visiting such places as we had not yet sufficiently scene ; onely I do not forget the Pope's benediction of the Con/alone, or Standard, and giving the hallowed palmes ; and on May-day the greate procession of the Universitie and the Mulatiers at St. Antonie's, and their setting up a foolish May-pole in the Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now tooke coach a little out of towne, to visite the famou? EXPT.ORE THE CATACOMBS. TOURNAMENT AT ROME. Roma soterranea, being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastian's, Here in a cornfield, guided by two torches, we crept on our bellies into a little hole, about 20 paces, which delivered us into a large entrie that led us into several streetes or allies, a good depth in the bowells of the earth, a strange and fearefull passage for divers miles, as Bosio has measured and described them in his book.' We ever and anon came into pretty square roomes, that seem'd to be Chapells with altars, and some adorn'd with very ordinary ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are plac'd on the sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat stone, having ingraven on them Pro Christo, or a Cross and Palmes, which are sup- posed to have been martyrs. Here, in all likel>hood, were the meet- ings of the primitive Christians during the persecutions, as Pliny the younger describes them. As I was prying about, I found a glasse phiale, fill'd as was conjectur'd with dried blood, and 2 lachrymatories. Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appear'd nothing else) lay so intire as if plac'd by the art of the chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus after wandering two or three miles in this subterranean meander, we return'd almost blind when we came into the day-light, and even choked by the smoake of the torches. It is said that a French Bishop and his retinue adventuring too far in these denns, their lights going out. were never heard of more. We were entertain'd at night with an English play at the Jesuites, where we before had dined ; and the next at Prince Galicano's who himself composed the musiq to a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal Pamphiho the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Rome, the Cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility and strangers. There had been in the morning a Just and Tournament of several! young gentlemen on a formal defy, to which we had been invited ; the prizes being distributed by the ladies after the knight-errantry way. The launcers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, with a greate deale of clatter, but without any bloodshed, giving much diversion to the spectators, and was new to us travellers. The next day Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning in attending the entrance and cavalcade of Card. Medici, the Ambassador from the (irand Duke of Florence, by the Via Flaminia. After dinner we went again to see the Villa Borghesi, about a mile without the Cittie ; tht^ garden is rather a park or paradise, contriv'd and planted with walkes and shades of myrtils, cypresse and other trees and groves, with aboundance of fountaines, statues, and bass-relievos, and several pretty murmuring rivulets. Here they had hung large netts to catch wood- cocks. There was also a Vivaric, where amongst other exotic fowles was an o^tridg.e ; besides a most capacious aviarie ; and in another in- closed part, an herd of deere. Before the palace (which might bccomt 1 Intituled Rotf.a S. cteranea, folio, Rom. 1632. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. the courte of a great prince) stands a noble fountaine of white marble, inrich'd with statues. The outer walls of the house are incrusted with excellent antique basse-relievos of the same marble, incornish'd with festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation to the roofe. A stately Portico joynes the palace, full of statues and columnes of mar- ble, umes and other curiosities of sculpture. In the first hall were the 12 Caesars of antiq marble, and the whole apartments furnish'd with pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables of porphy - rie of greate value. I often visited this delicious place. This night were glorious fire-works at the palace of Card. Medici before the gate, and lights of severall colours all about the windows through the Cittie, which they contrive by setting the candles in little paper lanterns died with various colours, placing hundreds of them from storie to storie, which renders a gallant shew. 4 May. Having seen the entrie of the Ambassador of Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our Cardinal Protector, Fran. Bar- berini, I was admitted into the Consistorie, heard the Ambassador make his oration in Latine to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state or throne, and changing two pontifical miters ; after which I was presented to kisse his toe, that is, his embroider'd slipper, two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then being sufficiently bless'd with his thumb and two fingers for that day, I returned home to dinner. We went againe to see the medails of Signer Gotefredi, which are absolutely the best collection in Rome. Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human figure lies, found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the Hidra, and found it not a foot long ; the three necks and 15 heads sceme to be but patch'd up with several pieces of serpents skins. 5 May. We tooke coach, and went 15 miles out of the Cittie to F rascati, formerly Tusculanum, a villa of Cardinal Aldobrandini, built for a country-house, but surpassing, in my opinion, the most delicious places I ever beheld for its situation, elegance, plcntifull water, groves, ascents, and prospects. Just behind the palace (which is of excellent architecture) in the center of the inclosure rises an high hill or moun- taine all over clad with tall wood, and so formVi by nature as if it had been cut out by art, from the sum'it whereof falls a cascade, seeming rathei a greate river than a streame precipitating into a large theatre of water, representing an exact and perfect rainebow when the sun shines out. Under this is made an artificiall grott, wherein are curious rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts of singing birds moving and chirping by force of the water, with severall other pageants and sur- prising inventions. In the center of one of these roomes rises a coper ball that continually daunces about 3 foote above the pavement by virtue of a wind conveyed secretely to a hole beneath it ; ^^'^^^^ /"^"^ other devices to wett the unwary spectators, so that one can hardly lO 146 FRASCATI ; MONTDRAGONE ; TIVOLI ; PALACE D'ESTE. Step without wetting to the skin. In one of these theaters of water is an Atlas spouting up the streame to a very great height ; and another monster makes a terrible roaring with an horn ; but above all, the re- presentation of a storm is most naturall, with such fury of raine, wind, and thunder, as one would imagine ones self in some extreame tempest. The garden has excellent walkes and shady groves, abundance of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, &c. and the goodly prospect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with such encomiums. The palace is indeed built more like a cabinet than any thing compos'd of stone and mortar ; it has in the middle a hall furnish'd with excellent marbles and rare pictures, espe- cially those of Gioseppi d'Arpino ; the moveables are princely and rich. This was the last piece of architecture fin i sh'd by Giacomo de la Porta, whc built it for Pietro Card. Aldobrandini in the time of Clement VIII.' We went hence to another house and garden not far distant, on the side of a hill called Montdragone, finish'd by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample and kingly edifice. It has a very long galerie, and at the end a theater for pastimes, spacious courts, rare grotts, vineyards, olive grounds, groves, and solitudes. The aire is so fresh and sweete, as few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to any palace in the cittie itselfe for statues, pictures, and furniture ; but it growing late we could not take such particular notice of these things as they deserv'd. 6 May. We rested ourselves ; and next day in a coach tooke our last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, going to Tivoli or the old Tyburtine. At about 6 miles from Rome we passe the Teverone, a bridge built by Mammea the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi ; and neere it passe the stinking sulphurous river over the Ponte Lucano, where we found an heape or turret full of inscriptions, now calFd the Tomb of Plautius. Arriv'd at Tivoli we went first to see the Palace d^Est6 erected on a plaine, but where was formerly an hill. The palace is very ample and stately. In the garden on the right hand are i6 vast conchas of marble jetting out waters ; in the midst of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth 4 girandolas, call'd from the resem- blance [to a particular exhibition in fireworks so named] the Fontana di Speccho [looking-glass.] Neere this is a place for tilting. Before the ascent of the palace is the famous fountaine of Lcda, and not far from that 4 sweete and delicious gardens. Descending thence are two pyramids of water, and in a grove of trees neere it the fountaines of Tethys, Esculapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora ; then the prancing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grott of Venus, the two Colosses of Mehcerta, and Sibylla Tibertina, all of exquisite marble, coper, and other suitable adornements. The Cupids pouring out water are espe- «L?l'm''' ";PP°''^° A;dobrnndIni was elected Pope in January 1592 by the name of Cle- mrnt V HI. and died m March 1605. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. U7 cialy most rare, and theurnes on which are plac'd the lo n) niphs. The Grotts are richly pav'd with Pietra Commessa, shells, corall, *S'c. Towards Roma Triumphans leades a long and spacious walK,full of foimtaines, under which is historizcd the whole Ovidian Metamorphosis in rarely sculptur'd mezzo relievo. At the end of this, next the wall, is the Cittie of Rome as it was in its beauty, of small models, representing that Cittie, with its Amphitheaters, Naumachia, Thenn3P, 7'emples, Arches, Aqueducts, Streetes, and other magnificences, with a little streame running thro' it for the Tyber, gushing out of an urne next the statue of the river. In another garden is a noble aviarie, the birds arti- ficial, and singing till an owle appeares, on which they suddainly change their notes. Near this is the fountaine of Dragons casting out large streames of water with great noises. In another Grotto called Grotto di Natura^ is an hydraulic organ ; and below this are divers stews and fish-pounds, in one of which is the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a sea-horse, in another a Triton ; and lastly a garden of simples. There are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, bedsteds richly inlaied, and sundry other precious moveables ; the whole is said to have cost the best part of a milhon. Having gratified our curiositie with these artificial miracles, and din'd, we went to see the so famous natural precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down from the moun- taines of Tivoli, with that fury that, what with the mist it perpetualy casts up by the breaking of the water against the rocks, and what with the sun shining on it and forming a natural Iris, the prodigious depth of the gulph below, it is enough to astonish one that lookes on it. Upon the sum'ite of this rock stand the ruines and some pillars and cornishcs of the temple of Sibylla Tybertina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still dis- covering some of its pristine beauty. Here was agreate deal of gunpowder drying in the sun, and a httle beneath, mills belonging to the Pope. And now we returned to Rome. By the way we were shew'd at some distance the citty Preeneste, and the Hadrian Villa, now onely an heape of ruines, and so came late to our lodging. We now determined to desist from visiting any more curiosities, ex- cept what should happen to come in our way when my companion Mr. Henshaw and myself should go to take the aire : onely I may not omit that one afternoone, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a Montebanke there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring from his finger, which seemed set with a dull, darke stone, a little swelling out, like what we call (tho' untruly) a toadstone, and wetting his finger a httle in his mouth and then touching it, it emitted a luculenc flame as bright and large as a small wax candle ; then blowing it out, he re- peated this several times. I have much regretted that I did not pur- chase the receipt of him for making that composition at what price soever ; for tho' there is a processe in Jo. Baptista Porta and others bow to do it, yet on several! trials none of them have succeeded. 148 RESUME OF OBSERVATIONS ON MATTERS CONCERNING ROME. Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these : As to Coins and Medai!3, lo Asses make the Roman Denarius^ $ the Quinarius^ ID Denarii x\ Aureus; which accompt runs almost exactly with what is now in use of Quatrini, Baiocs, Jiilios^ and Scudi, each exceeding the other in the proportion of ten. The Sestertius was a small silver coyne marked H. S. or rather lls, valu'd 2 pound and half of silver, viz. 250 Denarii, about 25 golden Di4cati. The stamp of the Roman Denarius varied, having sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma armed, or with a chariot and two horses, which were call'd Bigij if with 4, (luadrigi; if with a Victoria, so nam'd. The marke of the Denarius was distinguish'd > J piece of Christ calliuir St. Matthew^ by Hannibal Cairacci. The Mar ques Magniar.i has the whole freeze of his Hall painted in fresco by the same hand. Many of the religious men here nourish those lap-dogs which the ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They are a pigmy sort THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. of spaniels, whose noses they break when puppies, which in my opinion deforms them. At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the dormitorie of St. Michael I found a paper pasted neere the window, containing the dimensions of most of the famous Churches in Italy compar'd with their Toures here, and the length of this Gallery, a copy whereof I tooke. Braccia.^ Piedi di Bolognia. Cana di Roma. St. Pietro di Roma, longo — — 284 473 84 Cupola del murro, alta 210 350 60 Torre d'Asinello, alto 208| 348 59pr. 6 Dormitorio de St. Mich, a Bologn. longo 254 423 72I From hence being brought to a subterranean territorie of cellars, the courteous Friars made us taste a variety of excellent wines, and so we departed to our Inn. This Citty is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold greate quan- tities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo, Caviare, &c. which makes some of their shops perfume the streetes, with no agreeable smell. We furnish'd ourselves with wash-balls, the best being made here, and being a considerable commodity. This place has also been famous for lutes madebytheoldmasters,MollenHansFrey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which were of extraordinary price ; the workmen were cheifly Germans. The cattle used for draught in this country (which is very rich and fertile, especialy in pasturage) are cover'd with housings of linnen fring'd at the bottome, that dangle about them, preserving them from flyes, which in sum'er are very troublesome. From this pleasant Citty we went now towards Ferrara, carrying with us a buUetino or bill of health, (customary in all these parts of Italy, especialy in the State of Venice,) and so put ourselves into a boate that was tow'd with horses, often interrupted by the sluices (inventions there to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the artificial canalls) at every one of which we stayed till passage was made. We went by the Castle Bentivoglio, and about night ariv'd at an ugly inn call'd Mai Albergo, agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supp'd, we em- bark'd and pass'd that night thro' the Fenns, where we were so pestered with those flying glow-worms called LuccioH, that one who had never heard of them would think the Country full of sparks of fire ; beating some of them downe, and applying them to a book, I could reade in the dark by the light they afforded. Quitting our boate we took coach, and by morning got to Ferrara, v/here, before we could gain entrance, our gunns and amies were taken from us of custom, the lock being taken off before, as we were ad vis' d. ' A measure of half ao ell. 158 FERRARA ; THE PO, THE ADICE, CANALS, VENICE. The Citty is in a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The houses and streetes have nothing of beauty, except the Palace and Church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies buried ; and there are some good statues, the Palazzo del Diamante, Citadel, Church of St. Dominico. The Market-place is very spacious, having in its center the figure of Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in coper. It is in a word a dirty towne, and tho' the streeces be large they remaine ill pav'd ; yet it is an University, and now belongs to the Pope. Tho' there aie not many fine houses in the Citty, the inn where we lodged was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its sign. We parted from hence about 3 in the afternoone, and went some of our way on the Chanell, and then imbark'd on the Po, or Padus, by the poets called Eridanus, where they faine Phaeton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and where lo was metamorphos'd into a cow. There was in our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was ex- ceeding civill to me in this passage, and afterwards did me many kind- nesses at Venice. We supp'd this night at a place called Corbua, neere the ruines of the ancient Citty Adria, which gives name to the Gulph, or Sea. After 3 miles, having passed 30 on the Po, we imbarked in a stout vessell, and thro' an artificial chanell, very strait, we entred the Adice, which carried us by breake of day into the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously by Chioza, (a towne upon an island in this Sea,) and Palestina, we came over against Malamocco (the cheife port and ankerage where our English merchantmen lie that trade to Venice,) about 7 at night, after we had stayed at least 2 houres for permission to land, our bill of health being deliver'd according to costome. So soone as we came on shore we were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus were visited, and then we got to our lodging, which was at honest Signor Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black Eagle near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the towne. This journey from Rome to Venice cost me 7 pistoles and 13 julios. June. The next morning, finding myself extreamly weary and beaten with my journey, I went to one of their bagnios, where you are treated after the Eastern manner, washing with hot and cold water, M'ith oyles, and being rubbed with a kind of strigil of seal's-skin, put on the ope- rator's hand like a glove. This bath did so open my pore? that it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had in my life, for want of neces- sary caution in keeping myselfe warme for some time after ; for coming out I im'ediately began to visit the famous places of the Citty ; and Travellers who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to see sights, and this Citty well deserved our admiration, being the most wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on so many hundred islands, in the very Sea, and at good distance from the Continent. It has no fresh water except what is reserved in cisterns from raine, and such as is daily brought from terra firma in boates, yet there was no want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very cheapc. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. Tis said that when the Huns overran Italy some meane fishermen and others left the maine land and fled for shelter to these despicable and muddy islands, which in processe of time, by industry, are growne to the greatnesse of one of the most considerable States, considered as a Republic, and having now subsisted longer than any of the foure ancient Monarchies, flourishing in greate state, wealth, and glory, by the conquest of greate territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, Candy, Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present challenging the empire of all the Adriatiq Sea, which they yearly espouse by casting a gold ring into it with greate pomp and ceremony on Ascension Day : the desire of seeing this was one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome. The Doge, having heard masse in his robes of state (which are very particular, after the Eastern fashion,) together with the Senat in their gownes, imbark'd in their gloriously painted, carved, and gilded Bu- centora, inviron'd and follow'd by innumerable gallys, gondolas, and boates, filled with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, musiq, and canons ; having rowed about a league into the Gulph, the Duke at the prow casts a gold ring and cup into the Sea, at which a loud acclamation is ecchoed from the greate guns of the Arsenal and at the Liddo. We then return'd. Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water-coach (for land-ones there are many old men in this Citty who never saw one, or rarely a horse), we rowed up and downe the Channells, which answer to our streetes. These vessells are built very long and narrow, having necks and tailes of Steele, somewhat spreading at the beake hke a fishe's taile, and kept so exceedingly polish'd as to give a greate lustre ; some are adorn'd with carving, others lined with velvet (commonly black), with curtains and tassells, and the seates like couches, to He stretclrd on, while he who rowes stands upright on the very edge of the boate, and with one oare bending forward as if he would fall into the Sea, rows and turnes with incredible dexterity ; thus passing from channell to channel!, landing his fare or patron at what house he pleases. The beakes of these vessells are like the ancient Roman rostrums. The first publiq building I went to see was the Rialto, a bridge ot one arch over the grand Canall, so large as to admit a gaily to row under it, built of good marble, and having on it, besides many pretty shops, three ample and stately passages for people without any incon- venience, the two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone; a piece of Architecture much to be admir'd. It was evening, and the Canall where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our Hide-park, was full of ladys and gentlemen. There are many times dangerous stops by rea- son of the multitude of gondolas ready to sink one another ; and indeede they affect to leane them on one side, that one who is not accostom'd to it would be afraid of over-setting. Here they were singing, playing on harpsicords and other musick, and serenading their -6o THE RIALTO ; GONDOLAS ; EXCHANGE ; CHURCH OF ST. MARC mistresses; in another place racing and other pastimes upon the water, it being now exceeding hot. Next day I went to their Exchange, a place like ours frequented by merchants, but nothing so magnificent : from thence my guide led me to the Fondigo di Todeschi, which is their magazine, and here many o! the merchants, especialy Germans, have their lodging and diet as in a college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by Giorgione da Castelfranco, and Titian himselfe. Hence 1 pass'd thro' the Merceria, which is one of the most dehcioiis streetes in the world for the sweetnesse of it, and is all the way on bot h sides tapistred as it were with cloth of gold, rich damasks and other silks, which the shops expose and hang before their houses from the first floore, and with that variety that for neere halfe the yeare spent cheifly in this Citty I hardly remember to have scene the same piece twice expos'd ; to this add the perfumes, apothecaries shops, and the innumerable cages of nightingales which they keepe, that entertaine you with their melody from shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes you would imagine yourselfe in the country, when indeede you are in the middle of the Sea. It is almost as silent as the middle of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor trampling of horses. This streete, pav'd with brick and exceedinf \ cleane, brought us thro' an arch into the famous Piazza of St. Marc. Over this Porch stands that admirable Clock, celebrated next to that of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst which, about 12 and 6. which are their houres of Ave Maria when all the towne are on their knees, come forth the 3 Kings led by a starr, and passing by the image of Christ in his Mother's armes do their reverence, and enter into the clock by another doore. At the top of this turret another automaton strikes the quarters ; an honest merchant told me that one day walking in the Piazza, he saw the fellow who kept the Clock struck with this hammer so forceably, as he was stooping his head neere the bell to mend something amisse at the instant of striking, that being stunn'd he reel'd over the battlements and broke his neck. The buildings in this Piazza are all arch'd, on pillars, pav'd within with black and white polish'd marble even to the shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in Europ, being not only marble but the architecture is of the famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo at the end of the Piazza. The battlements of this noble range of building are rail'd with stone, and thick set with excellent statues, which add a great orna- ment. One of the sides is yet much more Roman-like than the other vhich reguards the Sea, and where the Church is plac'd. The other fange is plainly Gotiq : and so we entred into St. Marc's Church, before which stand two brasse piedestals exquisitely cast and figur'd, which beare as many tall masts painted red, on which upon greate festivals they hang flaes and streamers. The Church is also Gotic; THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. l6l yet for the preciousnese of the materials being of scverall rich marbles^ aboundance of porphyrie, serpentine, &c. far exceeding any in Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired the splendid historie of our B. Saviour composed all of Mosaic over the faciata, below which and over the cheife gate are four horses cast in coper as big as the life, the same that formerly were transported from Rome by Constantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians hither.' They are supported by 8 porphyrie columns of very great size and value. Being come into the Church, you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is precious. The floore is all inlayed with achats, lazuli's, calcedons, jas- pers, porphyries and other rich marbles, admirable also for the work ; the walls sumptuously incrusted and presenting to the imagination the shapes of men^ birds, houses, flowers, and a thousand varieties. The roofe is of most excellent Mosaic ; but what most persons admire is the new work of the emblematic tree at the other passage out of the Church. In the midst of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle very large and sustayn'd by 36 marble columns, eight of which are of precious marbles : under these cupolas is the high altar, on which is a reliquarie of severall sorts of Jewells, engraven with figures after the Greekc. maner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The altar is cover'd with a canopy of ophit, on which is sculptur'd the storie of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which are of Parian marble, that support it. Behind these are four other columns of transparent and true Oriental alabaster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's Temple as they report. There are many chapells and notable monuments of illustrious persons. Dukes, Cardinals, &c. as Zeno, Jo. Soranzi, and others : there is likewise a vast baptisterie of coper. Among other venerable reliques is a stone on which they say our Blessed Lord stood preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and neere the doore is an image of Christ, much ador'd, esteeming it very sacred, for that a rude fellow striking it, they say, there gush'd out .a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from the island of Chios. A little farther they shew the picture of St. Dominic and Francis, affirm'd to have ben made by the Abbot Joachim (many yeares before any of them were born.) Going out of the Church they shew'd us the stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor Fred. Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, " super basilis- cu7n^' &:c. The dores of the Church are of massie coper. There are neere 500 pillars in this building, most of them porphyrie and serpen- tine, and brought cheifly from Athens and other parts of Greece formerly in their power. At the corner of the Church are inserted into !he maine wall four figures as big as life cut in porphyrie, which they cay are the images of four brothers who poysoned one another, by ; Tlicy were taken away by Buoua; arte to Paris, bu» u> 1815 /rc-e scat back to Venice. l62 TRESORO DI SAN MARCO ; SENATE-HOUSE ; DUCAL PALACE. which meanes there escheated to the Repubhq that vast treasury of rehcques now belonging to the Church. At the other entrance that looks towards the Sea, stands in a small chapell that statue of out Lady, made (as they affirme) of the same stone or rock out of which Moses brought water to the murmuring Israelities at Meriba. After all that is said, this Church is in my opinion much too darl^ and dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is much of Venice both for buildings and other fashions and circumstances, after the Greekes, their next neighboures. The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador I had admittance with him to see the Reliquary call'd here Tresoro di San Marco, which very few even of travellers are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full of presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure golden annour studded with precious stones, and as many crown es dedicated to St. Mark by so many noble Venetians who had recovered theirwives taken at sea by the Saracens ; many curious vases of a'.hats ; the cap or cornet of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had n rubie set on it esteemed worth 200,000 crownes ; two unicorns ho:nes ; numerous vasas and dishes of achat set thick with precious stones and vast pearles ; divers heads of Saints inchas'd in gold ; a small ampulla or glasse with our Saviour's blood ; a greate morcell of the real crosse ; one of the nailes ; a thorn ; a fragment of the column to which our Lord was bound when scourged ; the standard or ensigne of Constan- tine ; a piece of St. Luke's arme ; a rib of St. Stephen ; a fmger of Mary Magdalene ; numerous other things which I could not remem- ber ; but a priest, first vesting himselfe in his sacerdotals with the stole about his neck, shew'd us the Gospel of St. Mark (their tutelar patron) written by his own hand, and whose body they shew buried in the Church, brought hither from Alexandria many years ago. The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of P. Veroneze, esp© cialy that of the Magdalen. A French Gentleman and myself went to the Courts of Justice, the Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first Court neere this Church is almost wholly built of several colour'd sorts of marble, like chequer work on the outside ; this is sustain'd by vast pillars, not very shapely, but observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three no two are alike. Under this fabrick is the Cloyster where Merchants meete mor- ning and evening, as also the grave Senators and Gentlemen, to confer of state affaires in their gownes and caps like so many Philosophers ; 'tis a very noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle stood two square columns of white marble, carved, which they said had ben erected to hang one of their Dukes on who design'd to make himselfe Soveraigne. Going through a stately arch there were standing in niches divers statues of greate value, amongst which is the so celebra- ted Eve, esteem'd worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to the THE DIARY OF JOHN £VELYN. 163 staires where are two Colossus's of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino. We went up into a Coridore built with several Tribunals and Courts ot Justice ; and by a well contrived stair-case were landed in the Senate- hall, which appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in Europ, being 76 paces long and 32 in breadth. At the upper end are the Tribunals of the Doge, Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body of the hall are lower ranks of seates capable of containing 1500 Senators, for they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over the Duke's throne are the paintings of the Final J'udgjneni by Tintoret, esteemed amongst the best pieces in Europe. On the roofe are the famous Acts of the Republick painted by severall excellent masters, especialy Bassano ; next them are the Effigies of the severall Dukes, with their Elogies. Then we turned into a great Court painted with the Battail of Lepanto, an excellent piece ; thence into the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the most celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favour of an lilusfrissimo, we were carried to see the private Armorie of the Palace, and so to the same Court we first enter'd, nobly built of polish'd white marble, part of which is the Duke's Court pro tempore; there are two wells adorn'd with excellent work in coper. This led us to the sea-side, where stand those two columns of ophite stone in the intire piece, of a greate height, one bearing St. Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus ; these pillars were brought kom Greece, and set up by Nic. Baraterius the architect ; betweene them publique executions are performed. Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the Island St. George, the gallies, gondolas, and other vessells passing to and fro, we walked under the Cloyster on the other side of this goodly Piazza, being a most magnificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went into the Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance stand two prodigious Giants or Her ciiles of white marble : we saw them melt, beate, and coyne silver, gold, and coper. We th^n went up into the Procuratorie, and a Library of excellent MSS. and books belonging to it and the Publiq. After this we climb 'd up the Toure of St. Mark, which we might have don on horseback, as 'tis said one of the French Kings did, there being no stayres or steps, but returnes that take up an entire square on the arches 40 foote, broad enough for a coach. This Steeple stands by itselfe without any Church neere it, and is rather a watch toure in the corner of the greate Piazza, 230 foote in height, the foundation exceeding deepe ; on the top is an Angel that turns with the wind, and from hence is a prospect down the Adriatic as far as I stria and the Dalmatian side, with the surprizing sight of this miraculous Citty, vvhich lies in the bo- some of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands tacked together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the foote of this Toure is^a pubHc Tribunal of excellent work in white marble polish'd, adorn d with several brasse statues and figures of stone in mezzo relievo, the *rorke of some rare artist. l64 APPEARANCE, DRESS, AND HABITS OF THE VENETIANS. It was now Ascension Weeke, and the greate Mart or Faire of th« whole yeare was now kept, every body at hberty and joUie. The noble- men stalking with their ladys on choppi7iesj these are high-heel'd shoes, particularly affected by these proude dames, or, as some say, invented to keepe them at home, it being very difficult to walke with them ; whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, replied, that they were mezzo came, mezzo ligno, half flesh, half wood, and he would have none of them. The truth is, their garb is very odd, as seem- ing allwayes in masquerade ; their other habits also totaly different from all nations. They weare very long crisped haire, of severall strakes and colours, which they make so by a wash, dischevelling it on the brims of a broade hat that has no head, but an hole to put out their heads by ; they drie them in the sunn, as one may see them at their windows. In their tire they set silk flowers and sparkling stones, their peticoates coming from their very arrnc pits, so that they are neer^ three quarters and an half apron ; their sleeves are made exceeding wide, under which their shift sleeves as wide, and commonly tucked up to the shoulder, shewing their naked armes, thro' false sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet or two, with knots of points richly tagged about their shoulders and other places of their body, which they usually cover with a kind of yellow vaile of lawn very transparent. Thus attir'd they set their hands on the heads of two matron-like servants or old women, to support them, who are mumbling their beades. 'Tis ridiculous to see how these ladys crawle in and out of th.t\r gondolas by reason of their choppi7ies, and what dwarfs they appeare when taken downe from their wooden scaffolds ; of these I saw near thirty together, stalking half as high again as the rest of the world, for courtezans or the citizens may not weare choppines, but cover their bodies and faces with a vaile of a certaine glittering taffeta or lustre^, out of which they now and then dart a glaunce of their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid with it ; nor may the com'on misses take this habit, but go abroad bare- fac'd. To the corners of these virgin-vailes hang broad but flat tossells of curious Point de Venize ; the married women go in black vailes. The nobility weare the same colour, but of fine cloth lin'd with taffeta in Summer, with fur of the belHes of squirrells in the Winter, which all put on at a certaine day girt with a girdle emboss'd with silver ; the vest not much different from what our Bachelors of Arts weare in Ox- ford, and a hood of cloth made like a sack, cast over their left shoulder, and a round cloth black cap fring'd with wool which is not so comely ; they also weare their collar open to shew the diamond button of the stock of their shirt. I have never scene pearle for colour and bignesse comparable to what the ladys wear, most of the noble families being very rich in Jewells, especialy pearles, which are always left to the son or brother who is destined to marry, which the eldest scldome do. The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's. Sic. of daraasc, very THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 165 Stately. Nor v/as I lesse surprised with the stranj^e variety of the severall nations which were seen every day in the strcctcs and piazzas ; Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, Moores, Greekes, Sclavonians, some with their targets and boucklers, and all in their native fashions, nej^o- tiating in this famous Emporium, which is allways crowded w'ith strangers. This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places before, we went to the Opera where comedies and other plays are represented in recitative musiq by the most excellent musicians vocal and instrumen- tal, with variety of sceanes painted and contrived with no lesse art of perspective, and machines for flying in the aire, and other wonderfuil motions ; taken together it is one of the most magnificent and expen- sive diversions the wit of man can invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia ; the sceanes changed thirteen times. The famous voices, Anna Rencia, a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women ; but there was an eunuch who in my opinion surpass'd her ; also a Genoeze that sung an incomparable base. This held us by the eyes and eares till two in the morning, when we went to the Ghetto de san Felice, to see the noblemen and their ladies at Basset^ a game at cards which is much used, but they play not in public, and all that have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking one word, and so they come in, play, loose or gaine, and go away as they please. This time of licence is onely in Carnival and this Ascension Weeke ; neither are their Theaters open for that other magnificence or for ordinary come- dians save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise people and exact observers of all sumptuarie laws. There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy Land, I had re- solved to imbark, intending to see Jerusalem and other parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey ; but after I had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to coole our drink, bought some sheepe, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a little cabinet of drouggs in case of sicknesse, our vessell (where- off Capt. Powell was master) happen'd to be press'd for the service of the State to carry provisions to Candia, now newly attacqued by the Turkes, which altogether frustrated my designe, to my very greate mortification. On the . . . June we went to Padua, to the Faire of their St. Anthony in company of divers passengers. The first terra Jirma we landed at was Fesina, being onely an inn, where we changed our barge and were then drawne up by horses thro' the river Brenta, a strait chanell as even as a line for 20 miles, the country on both sides deliciously adorn'd with country villas and gentlemen's retirements, gardens planted with oranges, figs and other fruit belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas we went ashore to see a pretty contriv'd Palace. Observable in this passage was buying their water of those who farme the sluices, for this artificial river is in some places so shallow that 1 66 PADUA; TOMB OF ST. ANTHONY; SCULPTURES. reserves of water are kept witli sluices, which they open and shut with a most ingenious invention or engine, govern'd even by a child. Thus they keep up the water, or let it go, till the next channell be either filled by the stop, or abated to the levell, of the other, for which every boate pays a certain dutie. Thus we stay'd neere halfe an houre and more at three severall places, so as it was evening before we got to Padua. This is a very ancient Cittie if the tradition of Antenor's being the founder be not a fiction ; but thus speakes the inscription over a stately gate : Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujus agrum fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit an'o ante Christum natum M.Cxviii, Senatus autem Venetus his beUi propugnan- dis ornavit. The towne stands on the river Padus, whence its name, and is gene- rally built like Bologna on arches and on brick, so that one may walk ail round it, dry, and in the shade, which is very convenient in these hot countries, and I think I was never sensible of so burning a heate as I was this season, especialy the next day, which was that of the Faire, fill'd with noble Venetians by reason of a greate and solemn procession to their famous Cathedral. Passing by St. Lorenzo I met with this inscription : Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem ' Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq ; fuga, Expulit Eugan^os, Patavinam condidit urbem, Quem tegit hie humili marmore caDsa domus. Under the tomb was a cobler at his work. Being now come to St. Antonies (the streete most of the way strait, well built, and outside ex- cellently painted in fresco) we survey'd the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble statue of coper of a m.an on horseback, in memorie of one Catta Malata**, a renowned captaine. The Church a la Greca con- sists of five handsome cupolas leaded. At the left hand within is the tomb of St. Anthony and his altar, about which a mezzo relievo of the miracles ascrib'd to him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three famous sculptors Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, and Hieron. Compagno. A little higher is the quire, wall'd parapet fashion with sundry coloured stone halfe relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar within is of the same metall, which with the candlestick and bases is in my opinion as magnificent as any in Italy. The wainscot of the quire is rarely inlayed and carved, tiere are the sepulchres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus Fulgosi, &c. and among the rest one that for an exploit at sea has a gaily exquisitely carved thereon. 1 Keysler very justly observes that the first line of this inscription conveys no meaning. Vol. III. p. 220. 2 Lassells calls him Gatta Mela, the Venetian Geper^l nicknamed Gata, because of hie walchfulness, p. 429. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 167 The Procession bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloyster, which was a very fine sight. Hence walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to see the Convent of St. Justina's, than which I never beheld one more magnificent. The Church is an excellent piece of architecture of Andrea Palladio, richly pav'd, with a stately cupola that covers the high altar inshrining the ashes of that Saint. It is of Pietra Commessa, consisting of flowers very naturally don. The quire is inlay'd with severall sorts of wood representing the holy history, finish'd with exceeding industry. At the far end is that rare painting of S^. Justind!s martyrdom by P. Vero- nese ; and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Christians had ben decapitated. In another place (to which leads a small cloister well painted) is a dry well cover'd with a brasse-work grate wherein are the bones of divers martyrs. They shew also the bones of St. Luke in an old alabaster coffin ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and the bodys of St. Maximus and Prosdocimus ' . The Dormitory above is exceed- ing commodious and stately, but what most pleas'd me was the old cloyster so well painted with the legendarie Saints, mingled with many ancient inscriptions, and pieces of urnes dug up it seemes at the foun- dation of the Church. Thus having spent the day in rambles, I returned the next day to Venice. The Arsenal is thought to be one of the best furnish 'd in the world. We entred by a strong port always guarded, and ascending a spacious gallery saw armes of back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; in another were saddles, over them ensignes taken from the Turks. An- other Hall is for the meeting of the Senat ; passing a grafif are the smiths forges, where they are continualy at work on ankers and iron work. Neere it is a well of fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's horns which they say lie in it and will preserve it from ever being empoison'd. Then we came to where the carpenters were building their magazines of oares, masts, (S:r. for an hundred gallys and ships, which have all their aparell and furniture neere them. Then the founderie, where they cast ordinance ; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weighing 16,573 lbs. cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and put into a galiy built, rigg'd, and fitted for launching within that time. They have also armes for 12 galeasses, which are vessells to rowe, of almost 150 footc long and 30 wide, not counting prow or poop, and contain 28 banks of oares, each 7 men, and to carry 1300 men, with 3 masts. In another a magazin for 50 gallys, and place for some hundreds more. ^ Here stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so contnv'd that the slaves are not scene, having on the poop a throne for the Doge to Bit, when he gos in triumph to espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200 yards long for cables, and over that a magazme of hemp 1 St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. La*sclls, p. 43" l68 THE ARSENAL; GRIMANI S PALACE; CHURCH OF ST. ZACHARY. Over against these are their saltpetre houses, and a large row of cells or houses to protect their gal lies from the weather. Over the gate as we go out, is a roome full of greate and small guns, some of which dis- charge six times at once. Then there is a court full of can'on, bullets, chaines, grapples, granados, &c. and over that amies for 800,000 men- and by themselves armes for 400 taken from some that were in a plot against the State ; together with weapons of offence and defence for 62 ships ; 32 pieces of ordnance on carriages taken from the Turks, and one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, 'tis not to be reckoned up what this large place containes of this sort. There were now 23 gallys, and 4 gally-grossi of 100 oares of a side. The whole Arsenal is wall'd about and may be in compasse about 3 miles, with 12 towres for the watch, besides that the sea invirons it. The workmen, who are ordi- narily 500, march out in military order, and every evening receive their pay thro' a small hole in the gate where the Governor lives. The next day I saw a wretch executed who had murther'd his master, for which he had his head chop'd off by an axe that slid down a frame of timber,' between the two tall columns in St. Mark's Piazza at the sea brink ; the executioner striking on the axe with a beatle, and so the head fell off the block. Hence by Gudala we went to see Grimani's Palace, the portico whereof is excellent work. Indeed the world cannot shew a Citty of more stately buildings considering the extent of it, all of square stone, and as chargeable in their foundations, as superstructure, being all built on piles at an immense cost. We return'd home by the Church of St. Johanne and Paulo, before which is in coper the statue of Bartolomeo Colone on horseback, double gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of And. Verrochio, a Florentine. This is a very fine Church, and has in it many rare altar pieces of the best masters, especialy 'chat on the left hand of the Two Frias slai?ie^ which is of Titian. The day after, being Sunday, 1 went over to St. George's to the cere- monie of the schismatic Greekes, who are permitted to have their Church, tho' they are at defiance with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many painted, especialy the story of their patron and his dragon. Their rites differ not much from the Latines, save that of communicating in both species, and distribution of the holy bread. We afterwards fell into dispute with a Candiot concerning the proces- sion of the Holy Ghost. The Church is a noble fabric. The Church of St. Zachary is of Greeke building, by Leo the 4th Emp. and has in it the bones of that prophet with divers other Sainti Neere this we visited St. Luke's, famous for the tomb of Aretine.'' 1 The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France. ' This epitaph has been made for this Satyrist and Atheist : Here lies the man who no man spared, I Nor God himself had better fared. When the angry fit was on him ; If Aretuie had known him. rHE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. Tuesday we visited severall other Churches, as Santa Maria, newly incrusted with marble on the outside, and adorned with porphyrie, ophit, and Spartan stone. Neere the altar and under the organ are sculptures, that are said to be of the famous artist Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul I went purposely to see the tomb of Titian. Then to St. John the Evangelist, where amongst other heroes lies Andr. Baldarius, the inventor of oares applied to greate vessells for fighting. We also saw St. Roch, the roofe whereof is, with the school or hall of that rich confraternity, admirably painted by Tintoret, especialy the Crucifix in the sacristia. We saw also the Church of St. Sebastian, and Carmelites monasterie. Next day taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I pass'd to the Island of St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of Benedictines, and a well built Church by Andrea Palladio, the greate architect. The pavement, cupola, choire, and pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloyster has a fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, tho' this is an island a little distant from the Cittie ; it has also an olive orchard all inviron'd by the sea. The new cloyster now building has a noble stayrecase pav'd with v/hite and black marble. From hence we visited St. Spirito and St. Laurence, faire Churches in severall islands ; but most remarkable is that of the Padri Olivetani in St. Helen's island, for the rare paintings and carvings, with inlay 'd work, &c. The next morning we went againe to Padoa, where next day we visited the market, which is plentifully furnish 'd and exceedingly cheape. Here we saw the greate hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of the most magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good height, of a reddish marble polish'd, much us'd in these parts and happly found not far off ; 'tis almost 200 paces long and 40 in breadth, all cover'd with lead, without any support of columns. At the farther end stands the bust in white marble of Titus Livius the historian. In this town is the house wherein he was borne, full of inscriptions and pretty faire. Neere to the monument of Speron Speronii, is painted on the cieling fhe celestial zodiaq and other astronomical figures ; without side there is a corridor in manner of a balcony, of the same stone ; and at the entrie of each of the three gates is the head of some famous person, as Albert Eremitano, Jul. PauUo (lawyers), and Peter Aponius. In the piazza is the Podesta and Capitano Grande's Palace, well built; but above all the Monte Pieta, the front whereof is of most excellent archi- tecture ; this is a foundation of which there is one in most of the Citties in Italy, where there is a continual banq of mony to assist the poorer sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, together with magazmes (or deposit of goods till redeemed. Hence to the Scholes of this flourishing and ancient University, espe- cialy for the studie of physic and anatomie. They are tairly budt in I/O MATRICULATE AT PADUA. THE EARLE OF ARUNDEL. quadrangle, with cloysters beneath, and above with columns. Over the greate gate are the armes of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. Marc : *' Sic ingredere et teipso quotidie doctior ; sic egredere ut indies Patriae Christianasq ; Reipublic£E utilior evadas ; ita demum Gymna- sium a te feliciter ornatmn existimabit. ClD.ix." About the court walls are carv'd in stone and painted the blazons of the Consuls of all the nations that from time to time have had that charge and honor in the Universitie, which at my being there was my worthy friend Dr. Rogers, who here tooke that degree. The scholes for the lectures of the severall sciences are above, but none of them comparable, or so much frequented as the theatre for anatomic, which is excellently contriv'd both for the dissector and spec- tators. I was this day invited to dinner, and in the afternoone (being 30 July) received my Matricu la, being resolved to spend some moneths here at study, especialy physic and anatomic, of both which there was now the most famous professors in Europe. My Matricula contained a clause, that I, my goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all toll and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, buy or sell, without any toll, &c. The next morning I went to see the Garden of Simples, rarely fur- nish'd with plants, and gave order to the gardener to make me a col- lection of them for an hortus hyernalis, by permission of the Cavalier Dr. Vestlingius, who was then Prefect anci Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomic. Next morning the Earle of Arundel,' now in this Citty, a famous collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me to go with him to see the Garden of Mantua, where as one enters stands a huge colosse of Hercules. From hence to a place where was a roome cover'd with a noble cupola, built purposely for musiq ; the fillings up, or cove 'twixt the walls were of urnes and earthen pots for the better sounding ; it was also well painted. After dinner we walked to the Palace of Foscari all' Arena, there remaining yet some appearances of an ancient theater, tho' serving now for a court onely before the house. There were now kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheepe, a stag, and sundry foules, as in a vivarie. Three days after, I retum'd to Venice, and pass'd over to Murano famous for the best glasses of the world, where having viewed their furnaces and scene their worke, I made a collection of divers curiosities and glasses, which I sent for England by long sea. 'Tis the white flints which they have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceed- ingly small and mix with ashes made of a sea weede brought out of 1 The celebrated Thomas Earl of Anmdel, part of whose collection was eventually procured for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is distinguished by the name a. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 177 declines 11 foote, the suffito painted with cloudes. To this there joynes a spacious Hall for sollemn days to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the Piazza is also the Podesta, or Governor's house, the faciata being of the Corinthian order, very noble. The Piazza it- selfe is so large as to be capable of justs and tournaments, the Nobility of this Citty being exceedingly addicted to this knight errantry anc? other martial diversions. In this place are two pillars in imitation of those at St. Marc's at Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the other the statue of St. Jo. Baptist. In a word, this sweete Towne has more well-built Palaces than any of its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number begun and not yet finished (but of stately designe) by reason of the domestic dissentions 'twixt them and those of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians least by combining they might think of recovering their ancient liberty. For this reason also are permitted those dissorders and insolences committed at Padoa among the youth of these two territories. It is no dishonour in this country to be some generations in finishing their palaces, that without exhausting themselves by a vast expcnce at once, they may at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is neere perfected in this manner. Count Ulmarini is more famous for his gardens, being without the walls, especialy his Cedrario or Conserve of Oranges eleaven score of my paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200 of my single paces, and which being full of fruite and blos- soms was a most delicious sight. In the middle of this garden was a cupola made of wyre, supported by slender pillars of brick, so closely cover'd with ivy, both without and within, that nothing was to be per- ceived but greene ; 'twixt the arches there dangled festoones of the same. Here is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth. I had in this towne recommendation to a very civil and ingenious npothecarie call'd Angelico, who had a pretty collection of paintings. I would faine have visited a place call'd the Rotunda, which was a mile out of towne belonging to Count Martio Capra, but one of our companions hasting to be gone, and little minding any thing save drinking and folly, which caus'd us to take coach sooner than we should have done. A little from the towne we pass'd the Campo Martio, set out in imi- tation of ancient Rome, wherein the noblesse exercise their horses, and the ladys make the Corso ; it is entred by a stately triumphal arch, the jjivention of Palladio. . ^ n • Being now set out for Verona, about midway we din'd at Ostana Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which was the Cava!ctto» /ust over the monument of the Scaligeri, formerly Princes of Verona, adorn'd with devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name. Early next morning we went about the Citty, >^hich is built on the 13 J 78 AMPHITHEATER OF VERONA. JULIUS CiESAR SCALIGER. gentle declivity and bottome of an hill, inviron'd in part with some considerable mountaines and downes of fine grass like some places in the South of Engl.md, and on the other side having the rich plaine where Caius Marius overthrew the Cimbrians. The Citty is divided in the midst by the river Athesis, over which are divers stately bridges, and on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is well painted in chiaro oscuro on the outside, as are divers others in this drie climate of Italy. The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder too, was the amphitheater, which is the most entire of ancient remaines now extant. The inhabitants call it the Arena : it has two portico's, one within the other, and is 34 rods long, 22 in bredth, with 42 ranks of stone benches or seates which reach to the top. The vastnesse of the marble stones is stupendious. ' L. V. Flaminia Consul, ano. urb. con. Llll.' This I esteeme to be one of the noblest antiquities in Europ, it is so vast and intire, having escaped the ruines of so many other public buildings for above, 1400 yearcs. There are other arches, as that of the victorie of Marius ; temples, aquasducts, &c. shewing still considerable remaines in severall places of the towne and how magnificent it has formerly ben. It has three strong castles, and a large and noble wall. Indeede the whole Citty is bravely built, especialy the Senate-house where we saw those cele- brated statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, Plinius and Vi- truvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth, and of later date Julius Caesar Scaliger, that prodigie of learning. In the evening we saw the garden of Count Giusti's villa, where are walkes cut out of the maine rock, from whence we had the pleasant prospect of Mantua and Parma, though at greate distance. At the en- trance of this garden growes the goodliest cypresse I fancy in Europ, cut in pyramid ; 'tis a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, en- tirely cover'd and thick to the base. Dr. Cortone, a Civihan, shew'd us amongst other rarities a St. Doro- thea of Raphael. We could not see the rare drawings, especialy of Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Marcello, another advocate, on account of his absence. This Citty deserv'd all those elogies Scaliger has honoured it with, for in my opinion the situation is the most dclightfull I ever saw, it is so sweetly mixed with rising ground and vallies, so elegantly planted with trees on which Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn, for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here of all places I have scene in Italy would I fix a residence. Well has that learn'd man given it the name of the very eye of the world : — Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeH, Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amaenunj, Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 179 The next morning we travell'd over the downes where Marius fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester and the country towards Dor setshire. We dined at an inn called Cavalli Caschieri, neere Peschiera, a very strong fort of the Venetian Republic, and neere the Lago di Garda, which disembogues into that of Mantua, neert 40 miles in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as the most plea- sant spot in Italy, for which reason I observ'd it with the more dili- gence, alighting out of the coach and going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a gentleman's country house, from whence indeede it presents a most surprizing prospect. The hills and gentle risings about it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish, especialy troutts. In the middle of this lake stands Sermonea on an island ; here Capt. Wray bought a pretty nag of the master of our inn where we dined, for eight pistoles, which his wife, our hostesse, was so unwilling to part with, that she did nothing but kisse anr^ weepe and hang about the horse's neck till the captaine rid away. We came this evening tc Brescia, which next morning we traverst according to our custom in search of antiquities and new sights. Here I purchas'd of old Lazarino Cominazzo my fine carabine, which cost me 9 pistoles, this Citty being famous for these fire-armes, and that workman, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteem'd. This Citty consists most in artists, every shop abounding in gunns, swords, armorers, &c. Most of the workmen come out of Germanic. The Citty stands in a fertile plaine, yet the Castle is built on an hill. The streetes abound in faire fountaines. The Torre dclla Pallada is of a noble Tuscan Order, and the Senate-house is inferior to few. The Piazza is but indifferent ; some of the houses arched as at Padoa. The Cathedrall was under repaire. We would from hence have visited Parma, Pia- cenza, Mantua, &c. but the banditti and other dangerous parties being abroad, committing many enormities, we were content with a Pisgah sight of them. We din'd next day at Ursa Vecchia, and after dinner pass'd by an exceeding strong fort of the Venetians cal'd Ursa Nova, on their fron- tier. Then by the river Oglio and so by Sonano, where we enter the Spanish dominions, and that night ariv'd at Crema, which belongs to Venice, and is well defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, md so is the Dome or Cathedral and the Tower to it, with an ample Piazza. Early next day, after 4 miles riding, we enter'd into the State of Milan, and pass'd by Lodi, a greate Citty famous for cheese little short of the best Parmeggiano. We din'd at Marignano, 10 miles before coming to Milan, wliere we met halfe a dozen suspicious Cavaliers, who yet did us no hai-me. Then passing as through a contmual garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure, tor it is the paradise of Lombard v. l80 AT MILAN. THE CATHEDRALS. fALACE OF ARCHBISHOP. the highways as even and straite as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with fruit about the inclosures, vines to every tree at equal distances, and water'd with frequent streamcs. There was likewise much corne, and olives in aboundance. At approch of the Citty some of our company, in dread of the Inquisition (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing away some Protestant books and papers. We ariv'd about 3 in the afternoone, when the officers search'd us tho- roughly for prohibited goods, but finding we were onely gentlemen tra- vellers, dismiss'd us for a small reward, and we went quietly to our iim, the Three Kings, where for that day we refreshed ourselves, as we had neede. The next morning we delivered our letters of recommendation to the learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the remarkable places of the towne, the first of which was the famous Cathedral. We enter'd it by a por- tico so little inferior to that of Rome, that when it is finished it will be hard to say which is the fairest ; the materials are all of white and black marble, with columns of great height of Egyptian granite. The outside of the Church is so full of sculpture, that you may number 4000 statues all of white marble, amongst which that of St. Bartholo- mew is esteemed a masterpiece. The Church is very spacious, almost as long as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About the Quire the sacred storie is finely sculptured in snow-white marble, nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the Church are the miracles of St. Char. Boromeo, and in the vault beneath is his body before the high altar, grated, and inclos'd in one of the largest chrystals in Europe. To this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of marble within and without, and even cover'd with great planks of marble, in the Gotick designe. The windows are most beautifully painted. Here are two very faire and excellent organs. The fabriq is erected in the midst of a faire Piazza, and in the center of the Citty. Hence we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which is a quad- rangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who design'd much for Philip II. in the Escurial, and has built much in Milan. Hence I went into the Governor's Palace, who was Constable of Castile ; tempted by the glorious tapissries and pictures, I adventur'd so far alone, that peeping into a chamber where the greate man was under the barber s hands, he sent one of his Negro's (a slave) to know what I was ; I made the best excuse I could, and that I was only admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was a spie, on which I retir'd with all the speede I could, pass'd the guard of Swisse, got into the streete, and in a moment to my company, who were gone to the Jesuites Church, which in truth is a noble structure, the front especialy, after the moderne. After dinner we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of rare architecture, built by Bramante ; the carvings of the m.arble faciata are by Hannibal Eontana, whom they THE DIARY OF JuHN EVELYN. igj cslecme at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a roomc joyning to the Church is a marble Madona like a Colosse, of the sam? sculptor s work, which they will not expose to the aire. There are tw4 Sacristias, in one of which is a fine Virgi7i of Leonardo da Vinci, in the other is one by Raphael d'Urbino, a piece which all the world admires. The Sacristan shew'd us a world of rich plate, Jewells, and embroder'd copes, which are kept in presses. Next we went to see the Create Hospital, a quadrangular Cloysterof a vast compasse, a truly royal fabric, with an annual endowment of 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in the middle of it a crosse building for the sick, and just under it an altar so plac'd as to be scene in aU places of the Infirmarie. There are divers Colleges built in this quarter, richly provided for by the same Borromeo and his nephew the last Cardinal Frederico, some not yet finish'd, but of excellent designe. In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodyes of the 3 Magi, since translated to Colin (Cologne) in Germany ; they however pre- serve the tomb, which is a square stone, on which is engraven a star, and under it, " Sepulchrum trium Magorum." Passing by St. Laurence we saw 16 columns of marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this inscription yet standing : Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio Vcro Aug. Armiriaco INIedico Parthico Max. Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. III. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi Ha- driani Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro Nepoti Divi Nervae Abnepoti Dec. Dec. We concluded this day's wandring at the Monasterie of Madona della Gratia, and in the Refectorie admir'd that celebrated Cama Domini of Leonardo da Vinci, which takes up the intire wall at the end, and is the same that the greate Virtuoso Francis the First of France was so enamour'd of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by binding it about with ribs of iron and timber to convey it into France. It i4 indeede one of the rarest paintings that was ever exeouted by Leonardo, who was long in the service of that Prince, and so deare to him that the fCing coming to visite him in his old age and sicknesse, he expired in his armes. This incomparable piece is now exceedingly impair'd. * Early next morning came the learned Dr Fersriu? to v/isite U5, and took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian Librarie, wnere Cardinal Fred. Borromeo has expended so vast a sujd on this building aiid in furnishing with curiosines, especialy pamnngs and arawings of mesti- 1 It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italu, published 1679. probably from its decay The painting is still there, but having been often retouched, on account of the dampness of the wall, is certainly not what it once was. The picture has been agair chawn into notice i- England from the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Raphac. Morghcn, which .1 esteemed one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been executed. 1 here is also an old engraving from it by Peter Soutman, but which by no means exhibit, a true del.ne*Uo. cf the characters of the piece, as designed bv Leonardo. r82 BEAUTY, SITUATION, STRENGTH, AND EXTENT OF MILAN. mable value amongst painters. It is a schole fit to make the ablest artists. There are many rare things of Hans Breugill, and amongst them the Four Elenmits. In this room stands the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavalicro Galeazzo Arconati, valueing his gift to the librarie of severall drawings by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, the keeper of them being out of towne and he always carrying the keys with him ; but my Lord Martial, who had scene them, told me all but one booke are small, that an huge folio contain'd 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, &c. but whereas the inscription pretends that our King Charles had offer'd ;^.iooo for them, the truth is, and my Lord himselfe told me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himselfe in the name and by permission of the King, and that the Duke of Feria, who was then Governour, should make the bargain : but my Lord having scene them since, did not think them of so much worth. In the great roome, where is a goodly librarie, on the right hand of the doore is a small wainscot closset furnish'd with rare manuscripts. Two original letters of the Grand Signor were shew'd us, sent to two Popes, one of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. (Borgia), and the other mentioning the head of the launce which pierc'd our B. Saviour's side sent as a present to the Pope : I would faine have gotten a copy of them, but could not ; I hear,however,thattheyaresincetranslated into Italian, and therein is a most honourable mention of Christ. We revisited St. Ambrose's Church. The high altar is supported by 4 porphyrie columns, and under it lie the remaines of that holy man. Neere it they shew'd us a pit or well (an obscure place it is) where they say St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and recited the Te Deum, for so imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some Councils that have ben held here, and for the coronation of divers Italian Kings and Emperors, receiving the Iron Crown from the Archbishop of this see. They shew the History by Josephus written on the bark of trees. The high altar is wonderfully rich. Milan is one of the most princely Citties in Europe : it has no suburbs, but is circled with a stately wall for 10 miles, in the center oi a country that seemes to flow with milk and hony. The aire is excellent ; the fields fruitfull to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of provisions. In the Citty are neere 100 Churches, 71 Monasteries, 40,000 inhabitants ; it is of a circular figure, fortified with bastions, fuU of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, especialy for works in chrystal, which is here cheape, being found among the Alpes. They are curious straw worke among the nunns, even to admiration. It has a good river, and a citadcll at some small distance from the Citty, commanding it, of greate strength for its works and munition of all kinds. It was built by Galeatius II. and consists of 4 bastions, and works at the angles and fronts ; the grafif is fac'd with brick to a very great depth ; has 2 strong towres as one enters, and wi'.Ain is another foit and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. Spacious lodgings for the souldiers and for exercising them. No accommodation for strength is wanting, and all exactly uniforme. They have here also all sorts of work and tradesmen, a greate magazine of armes and provisions. The fosse is of spring water with a mill for grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath. Don Juan Vas- quez Coronada was now Governor ; the garrison Spaniards onely. There is nothing better worth seeing than the collection of Sig. Septalla,' a canon of St. Ambrose, famous over Christendome for his learning and virtues. Amongst other things he shew'd us an Indian wood that has the perfect scent of civet ; a flint or pebble, that has a quantity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being cleare as achat ; divers chrystals that have water moving in them, some of them having plants, leaves, and hogs bristles in them ; much amber full of insects, &c. and divers things of woven amianthus.^ Milan is a sweete place, and tho'the streetes are narrow they abound in rich coaches, and are full of noblesse, who frequent the course every night. Walking a turn in the Portico before the Dome, a cavaliero who pass'd by hearing some of us speaking English, looked a good while earnestly on us, and by and by sending his servant desir'd we would honour him the next day at dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, he not speaking to us himselfe, but we returned his civilitie with thanks, tho' not fully resolv'd what to do, or indeed what might be the meaning of it in this jealous place ; but on enquirie 'twas told us he was a Scots Colonel who had an honorable command in the Citty, so that we agreed to go. This afternoon we were wholly taken up in seeing an opera repre-,^nted by some Neapolitans, performed all in most excellent music with rare sceanes, in which there acted a cele- brated beauty. Next morning we went to the Colonel's, who had sent his servant Againe to conduct us to his house, which we found to be a noble palace richly furnish'd. There were other guests, all souldiers, one of them a Scotchman, but we could not learn one of their names. At dinner he excus'd his rudenesse that he had not himselfe spoken to us, telling us \t was his custome when he heard of any English travellers (who but rarely would be knowne to passe thro' that Citty for feare of the Inquisition) to invite them to his house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous dinner, and the wine was so tempting that after some healths had gon about, and we had risen from table, the Colonel » The Painter's Voyage particularizes 85 pictures in this Collection, but few of them hy great Masters. . . , r .u_ .^r^^* » There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum ; in its day, one of J"'',^' Drated in all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in Latm the later ^"^^ ^^^^^^^^P'^^ one in Italian. To this is prefixed a large inside view of the Museum, ^'^h'^'''"/ contents of busts, statues, pictures, urns, and every kind of rarity natura ^^^^' fj'^ Kevsler in his Travels laments the not being able to see it, on account o a law-suU the. 4ependiPg, and it has been long sip*^ dispersed, probably m consequence ot «. 1 84 HOSPITALITY OF THE SCOTCH COLONEL. ACCIDENT— HIS DEATH led US into his hall, where there hung up divers colours, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other amies, being trophies which he had taken with his owne hands from the enemy ; amongst them he would needs bestow a paire of pistols on Capt. Wray, one of our fellow-travellers and a good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle woven with silk and very curiously emboss'd, with other silk trappings, to which hung a half"e moone finely wrought, which he had taken from a basshaw whom he had slaine. With this glorious spoile I rid the rest of my journey as far as Paris, and brought it afterwards into England. He then shew'd us a stable of brave horses, with his menage and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caus'd to be brought out, which he mounted, and performed all the m.otions of an excellent horseman. When this was don, and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of his groome and page, who knew the nature of the beast and that their master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a fiery horse that had not yet been menaged and was very ungovernable, but was otherwise a very beautifull creature ; this he mounting, the horse getting the reines in a full carriere, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing the Colonell so forceably against the wall of the menage, that tho' he sat on him like a Centaure, yet recovering the jade on all foure againe, he desir'd to be taken down and so led in, where he cast him- self on a pallet, and with infinite lamentations, after some time we tooke leave of him being now speechlesse. The next morning going to risite him, we found before the doore the canopie which they usually carry over the host, and some with lighted tapers, which made us suspect he was in very sad condition, and so indeede we found him, an Irish Frier standing by his bed side as confessing him, or at least disguising a confession, and other ceremonies us'd i7i extremis^ for we afterwards learn'd that the gentleman was a Protestant and had this Frier his confidant, which was a dangerous thing at Milan, had it ben but suspected. At our entrance he sighed grievously and held up his his hands, but was not able to speake. After vomiting some blood, he kindly tooke us all by the hand, and made signes that he should see us no more, wh'ch made us take our leave of him with extreame reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster made us consult about our departure as soon as we could, not knowing how we might be enquir'd after or engag'd,the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable and inevitable on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore, discharging our lodgings, we agreed tor a coach to carry us to the foote of the Alpes, not a little concern'd for the death of the Colonell, which we now heard of, and who had so courteously entcrtain'd us. The first day we got as far as Castellanza, by which runs a consi- derable river into Lago Maggiore ; here at dinner were two or three Jesuites, who were very pragmatical and inquisitive, whom we declin'd conversation with a§ Recently as we could t so we pursucl our journey THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 185 tnro a most fruitfull plaine, but the weather was wet and uncomfost- able. At night we lay at Sesto. The next morning leaving our coach we embarked in a boate to carry us over the Lake (being one of the largest in Europe) and whence we could see the touring Alps, and amongst them the greate San Ber- nardo, esteemed the highest mountaine in Europe, appearing to be some miles above the clouds. Thro' this vast water passes the river Ticinus, which discharges itselfe into the Po, by which meanes Hel- vetia transports her merchandizes into Italy, which we now begin to "^eave behind us. Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hal'd ashore at Arona, a strong towne belonging to the Dutchy of Milan, where being examin'd by the Governor and paying a small duty, we were dismiss'd. Opposite to this forte is Angiera, another small towne, the passage very pleasant with the prospect of the Alps cover'd with pine and fir trees, and above them snow. We pass'd the pretty Island Isabella,^ about the middle of the Lake, on which is a faire house built on a mount, indeede the whole island is a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set about with orange and citron trees. The next we saw was I sola,' and we left on our right hand the Isle of St. Jovanni,^ and so sailing by another small towne built also on an island, we ariv'd at night at Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the Lake, and at the very foote of the Alpes, which now rise as it were suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even country in the world, and where there is hardly a stone to be found, as if Nature had here swept up the rubbish of the Earth in the Alpes to forme and cleare the Plaines of Lombardy, which we had hitherto pass'd since our coming from Venice. In this wretched place I lay on a bed stuff'd with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did so prick my skin thro' the tick, that I could not sleepe. The next morning I was fur- nish'd with an asse, for we could not get horses ; instead of stirrups we had ropes tied with k loope to put our feete in, which supplied the place of other trappings. Thus with my gallant steed, bridled with my Turkish present, we pass'd thro' a reasonably pleasant but very narrow vaHey till we came to Duomo, where we rested, and having shew'd the Spanish Passe, tht Governor would presse another on us that his Secretary might get a croune. Here we exchang'd our asses for mules, sure footed on the hills and precipices, being accustom'd to passe them ; hiring a guide, we were brought that night thro' very steepe, craggy and dangerous passages to a village called Vedra, being the last ©f the King of Spain's dominions in the Dutchy of Milan. We had a very infamous wretched lodging. The next morning we mounted again thro' strange, horrid and lear- ^ These are called "the Borromean Islands b the L»go Maggiore. belonging to ch. great MiUn^iie family of Botromeo." lB6 ASCENT OF THE ALPS; UGLY NATIVES; MOUNT SAMPION. full craggs and tracts, abounding in pine trees, and onely inhabited by beares, wolves, and wild goates ; nor could we any where see above a pistol shoote before us, the horizon being terminated v/ith rocks and mountaines, whose tops cover'd with snow seem'd to touch the skies, and in many places pierced the clowdes. Some of these vast mountaines were but one entire stone, 'twixt whose clefts now and then precipitated greate cataracts of mealted snow and other waters, which made a tej- rible roaring, echoing from the rocks and cavities ; and these waters in some places breaking in the fall wett us as if we had pass'd through a mist, so as we could neither see nor heare one another, but trusting to our honest mules we jogged on our way. The narrow bridges in some places made onely by felling huge fir trees and laying them athwart from mountaine to mountaine over cataracts of stupendious depth, are very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges made by cutting away the maine rock ; others in steps ; and in some places we passe be- tweene mountains that have ben broken and fallen on one another, which is very terrible, and one had neede of a sure foote and steady head to climb some of these precipices, besides that they are harbours for beares and wolves who have sometimes assaulted travellers. In these straights we frequently alighted, now freezing in the snow, and anon frying by the reverberation of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when we meete now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon the de- clining of the rocks as one would expect their sliding down. Amongst these inhabite a goodly sort of people having monstrous gullets or wenns of fleshe growing to their throats, some of which I have seene as big as an hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chinns, among the women especialy, and that so ponderous as that to ease them many wear linen cloth bound about their head and coming under the chin to support it ; but g^n's tumidujji guttiir iniratur iii Alpibiis f Their drinking so much snow-water is thought to be the cause of it ; the men using more wine are not so strumous as the women. The truth is, they are a peculiar race of people, and many greate water drinkers here have not these prodigious tumours ; it runs as we say in thebloud, and is a vice in the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivel'd and de- form'd by its drawing the skin of the face downe, that nothing can be more fritefull ; to this add a strange puffing dress, furrs, and the bar- barous language, being a mixture of corrupt High German, French and Italian. The people are of greate stature, extreamely fierce and rude, yet very honest and trustie. This night thro' almost unaccessible heights we came in prospect of Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, which has on its sum'it a few huts and a chapell. Approaching this, Captaine Wray's water- Bpaniel (a huge filthy cur that had followed him out of England) hunted an heard of goates downe the rocks into a river made by the melting of the snow. ;\riv'd at our cold harbour ^tho' the house had a stove in every THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 187 roome) and supping on cheese and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in cupbords so high from the floore that we cHmb'd them by a ladder ; we were covered with feathers, that is we lay between two ticks stuff'd with them, and all little enough to keepe one warme. The cieling of the rooms are strangely low for those tall people. The house was now, in September, halfe cover'd with snow, nor is there a tree 01 bush growing within many miles. From this uncomfortable place we prepared to hasten away the next morning, but as we were getting on our mules, comes a huge young fellow demanding mony for a goat which he affirm'd that Capt. Wray's dog had kiird ; expostulating the matter and impatient of staying in the cold, we set spurrs and endeavour'd to ride away, when a multitude of people being hy this time gotten together about us (for it being Sonday morning and attending for the priest to say masse) they stopp'd our mules, beate us off our saddles, and disarming us of our carbines, drew us into one of the roomes of our lodging, and set a guard upon us. Thus we continu'd prisoners till masse was ended, and then came halfe a score grim Swisse, who taking on them to be magistrates sate downe on the table, and condemn'd us to pay a pistole for the goate and ten more for attempting to ride away, threatening that if we did not pay it speedily, they would send us to prison and keep us to a day of publiq justice, where, as they perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they pre- tended we had prim'd our carbines and would have shot some of them (as indeede the Captaine was about to do) we might have had our heads cut oft", as we were told afterwards, for that amongst these rude people a very small misdemeanor dos often meete that sentence. Tho' the proceedings appear'd highly unjust on consultation among ourselves we thought it safer to rid ourselves out of their hands and the trouble we were brought into, and therefore we patiently layde downe the mony and with fierce countenances had our mules and armes delivered to us, and glad we were to Escape as we did. This was cold entertainment but our journey after was colder, the rest of the way having ben as they told us cover'd with snow since the Creation ; no man remember'd it to be without ; and because by the frequent snowing the tracts are continualy fill'd up, we passe by severall tall masts set up to guide travellers, so as for many miles they stand in ken of one another hke to our beacons. In some places where there is a cleft between 2 mountaines the snow fills it up, whilst the bottome being thaw'd leaves as it were a frozen arch of snow, and that so hard as to beare the greatest weight ; for as it sno^ys often, so it perpetualy freezes, of which I was so sensible that it fiaw d the verv' skin of my face. Beginning now to descend a little, Capt. Wray's horse (that was om sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging thro' a bank of loose snow slid downe a frightfull precipice, which so mcensd the choleriq cavalier his master that he was sending a brace of bullets mto thepoorc l88 SRIGA ; THE LAKE Ol'' GENEVA ; SIGN. beast, least our guide should recover him and run away with his bur- then ; but just as he was lifting up his carbine we gave such a shout, and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as with all his might plunging through the snow he fell from another steepe place into another bot- tome neere a path we were to passe. It was yet a good while ere we got to him, but at last we recovered the place, and easing him of his charge hal'd him out of the snow, where he had ben certainly frozen in if we had not prevented it before night. It was as we judg'd almost two miles that he had slid and fall'n, yet without any other harme than the benuming of his limbs for the present, but with lusty rubbing and chafing he began to move, and after a little walking per- form'd his journey well enough. All this way, affrited with the disaster of this horse, we trudg'd on foote driving our mules before us ; some- times we fell, sometimes we slid thro' this ocean of snow, which after October is impassable. Towards night we came into a larger way, thro' vast woods of pines which clothe the middle parts of these rocks. Here they were burning some to make pitch and rosin, piling the knotty branches as we do to make charcoale, reserving what mealts from them, which hardens into pitch. We pass'd severall cascades of dissolv'd snow, that had made channels of formidable depth in the crevices of the mountaines, and with such a fearfull roaring as we could heare it for 7 long miles. It is from these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine which passe thro' all France and Germanie, derive their originals. Late at night we got to a towne called Briga at the foote of the Alpes, in the Valtoline. Almost every doore had nail'd on the outside and next the streete a beare's, wolfe's, or foxe's head, and divers of them all three ; a savage kind of sight, but as the Alpes are full of these beasts the people often kill them. The next morning we re- turn'd our guide, and tooke fresh mules and another to conduct us to the Lake of Geneva, passing thro' as pleasant a country as that we had just travel'd was melancholy and troublesome. A strange and suddaine change it seem'd, for the reverberation of the sun-beames from the mountaines and rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above two flight shots in bredth for a very great number of miles, renders the passage excessively hot. Thro' such extreames we con- tinu'd our journey, that goodly river the Rhone gliding by us in a narrow and quiet channell almost in the middle of this Canton, ferti- lising the country for grasse and corne, which grow in aboundance. We ariv'd this night at Sion, a pretty towne and citty, a bishop's scate, and the head of Valesia. There is a Castle, and the Bishop who resides in it has both civill and ecclesiastical jurisdiction. Our host, a* the costome of these Cantons is, was one of the chicfest of the towne, and had ben a Colonell in France ; he us'd us with extreame civility, and was so displeas'd at the usage we received at Mount Sampion that he v;ould needes give us a letter to the Governor of t!ie THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 189 Country who resided at St. Maurice, which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront. This was a true old blade, and had ben a very curious virtuoso, as we found by an handsome collection of books, medails, pictures, bhells, and other antiquities. He shew'd two heads and homes of the true capricorne, which animal he told us was fre- quently kill'd among the mountaines ; one branch of them was as much as I could well lift and neere as high as my head, not much un- like the greater sort of goates, save that they bent forwards, by help whereof they climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the inhabitants now and then shoote them ; they speak prodigious things of their leaping from crag to crag, and of their sure tooting notwith- standing their being cloven footed, unapt one would think to take hold and walke so steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonell would have given me oneol these beames, but the want of a convenience to carry it along with me caus'd me to refuse his courtesie. He told me that in the Castle there were some Roman and Christian antiquities, and he had some inscriptions in his owne garden. He invited us to his country-house, where he said he had better pictures and other rarities ; but our time being short, I could not persuade my companions to stay and visite the places he would have had us scene, nor the offer he made to shew us the hunting of the beare, wolfe, and other wild beasts. The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty well-fashioned young woman, with a small rubie ring, we parted some- what late from our generous host. Passing thro' the same pleasant vally betweene the horrid mountaines on either hand, like a gallery many miles in length, we got to Martigni, vv^here also we were well en- tertain'd. The houses in this country are all built of firr boards planed within, low, and seldom above one story. The people very clownish and rustickly clad after a very odd fashion, for the most part in blew cloth, very whole and warme, with little variety or distinction 'twixt the gentleman and common sort, by a law of their country being exceed- ingly frugal. Add to this their greate honestie and fidelity, tho' exact- ing enough for what they part with. I saw not one beggar. We paid the value of 20 shill. English for a day's hire of one horse. Every man gos with a sword by his side, the whole country well disciplin'd, and indeed impregnable, which made the Romans have such ill successe against them ; one lusty Swisse at their narrow passages is sufficient to repell a legion. 'Tis a frequent thing here for a young tradesman or fermor to leave his wife and children for 12 or 15 yeares, and seeke his fortune in the warrs in Spaine, France, Italy, or Germanic, and then returne againe to work. I look upon this country to be the safest spot of all Europ, neither envyed nor envying ; nor are any of them rich nor poore ; they live in greate simplicity and tranquiUitie ; and tho ol the H Cantons halfe be Roman Catholics, the rest Reformed, yet they mutually agree, and are contederate with Geneva, and are its onely 190 ST. MAURICE ; BECOME ILL OF SMALL POX ; LAKE OF GENEVA. security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves are from being attack'd by the greater Potentates, by the mutual jealousie of their neighbours, as either of them would be overbalanc'd should the Swisses who are wholy mercenarie and auxiliaries, be subjected to. the rule o^ France or Spaine. We were now ariv'd at St. Maurice, a large handsome towne and resi- dence of the President, where justice is don ; to him we presented our letter from Sion, and made known the ill usage we had receiv'd for killing a wretched goate, which so incens'd him as he sware if we would stay he would not onely help us to our money againe, but most severely punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge had by this time subsided, and glad we were to be gotten so neere France, which we reckon'd as good as home. He courteously invited us to dine with him, but we excus'd ourselves, and returning to our inn, whilst we were eating something before we tooke horse, the Governor had caus'd two pages to bring us a present of two great vessells of cover'd plate full of excellent wine, in which we drank his health, and rewarded the youthes ; they were two vast bowles supported by two Swisses, handsomly wrought after the German manner. This civilitie and that of our host at Sion perfectly reconcil'd us to the highlanders ; and so proceeding on our journey we pass'd this afternoone thro' the gate which divides the Valois from the Dutchy of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so thro' Montei we ariv'd that evening at Beveretta. Being ex- treamly weary and complaining of my head, and finding little accom- modation in the house, I caus'd one of our hostesses daughters to be removed out of her bed and went immediately into it whilst it was yet warme, being so heavy with pain and drowsinesse that I would not stay to have the sheetes chang'd ; but I shortly after payd dearly for my impatience, falling sick of the small pox so soon as I came to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the tale the good woman told me of her daughter having had an ague, I afterwards concluded she had ben newly recover'd of the small pox. Notwithstanding this I went with my company on the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the Lake ; and indeede sick as I was, the weather was so serene and bright, the water so calme, and aire so temperate, that never had travellers a sweeter passage. Thus we sail'd the whole length of the Lake, about 30 miles, the countries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one of the most delightfull prospects in the world, the Alps cover'd with snow, tho' at a greate distance yet shewing their aspiring tops. Thro' this Lake the river Rhodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle with its exceeding deep waters, which are ver>' deare, and breed the most celebrated troute for largenesse and goodness of any in Europe. I have ordinarily scene one of three foote in length sold in the market for a small price, and such we had in the lodging where we abodC; which was at the White Crosse. All this while I. held up tolerably, and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 191 the next morning having a letter for Signer John Diodati, the famouj Italian Minister and translator of the Holy Bible into that language, I went to his house, and had a greate deal of discourse with that learned person. He told me he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deale, whilst sailing for Holland, that he had seene London, and was exceedingly taken with the civilities he receiv'd. He so much approv'd of our Church Government by Bishops, that he told me the French Protestants would make no scruple to submitt to it and all its pomp, had they a King of the Reformed Religion as we had. He exceedingly deplor'd the difference now betweene his Majesty and the Parliament. After dinner came one Monsieur Saladine with his little pupil the Earle of Carnarvon, to visit us, offering to carry us to the principal places ot the towne, but being now no more able to hold up my head, I was con- strain'd to keepe my chamber, imagining that my very eyes would have dropp'd out ; and this night I felt such a stinging all about me that I could not sleepe. In the morning I was very ill, but sending for a doctor he persuaded me to be let bloud. He was a very learned old man, and as he said had ben physician to Gustavus the greate King of Sweden, when he pass'd this way into Italy under the name of Monsieur Garse, the initial letters of Gustavus Adolphus Rex Sueci£E, and of our famous Duke of Buckingham on his returning out of Italy. He after- wards acknowledged that he should not have bled me had he suspected the small pox, which brake out a day after. He afterwards purg d me and applied leaches, and God knows what this would have produc'd if the spots had not appear'd, for he was thinking of blooding me againe. They now kept me warme in bed for 16 daies, tended by a vigilant Swisse matron, whose monstrous throat, when I sometimes awak'd out of unquiet slumbers, would affright me. After the pimples were come forth, which were not many, I had much ease as to paine, but infinitely afflicted with the he^t and noysomenesse. By God's mercy after five weeks keeping my chamber I went abroad. Monsieur Saladine and his lady sent me many refreshments. Monsieur Le Chat, my physi- cian, to excuse his letting me bloud told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would have prov'd the plague or spotted feaver had he proceeded by any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go abroad, I dined at Monsieur Saladine's, and in the afternoone went crosse the water on the side of the Lake, and tooke a lodging that stood exceed- ing pleasant about halfe a mile from the Citty for the better ayring ; but I stay'd onely one night, having no company there save my pipe ; «o the next day I caus'd them to row me about the Lake as far as the greate stone which they call Neptune's Rock, and on which they say sacrifice was anciently offer'd to him. Thence I landed at certaine cherry-gardens and pretty villas by the side of the Lake and ex- ceedingly pleasant. Returning I visited their conservatories of fish ; in which were trouts of 6 and 7 foote long as they affirmed. 192 THE CITY OF GENEVA ; INSCRIPTIONS ; CAMPUS MARTIUS. The Rhone, which parts the Citty in the middst, dips into a cavern underground about 6 miles from it, and afterwards rises againe and runns its open course Hke our Mole or Swallow by Dorking in Surrey. The next morning (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, many of that Country, especialy of Lucca his native place, being inhabitants of Geneva and of the Reform'd Religion. The towne lying between Germanic, France, and Italy, those three tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabitants. 'Tis a strong well fortifi'd Citty, part of it built on a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, but the high pent-houses (for I can hardly call them cloy- sters, being all of wood) thro' which the people passe drie and in the shade winter and summer, exceedingly deforme the fronts of the buildings. Here are aboundance of bookesellers, but their bookes are of ill impressions ; these, with watches (of which store are made here), chrystal, and excellent screw'd guns, are the staple commodities. All provisions are good and cheape. The Townehouse is fairely built of stone ; the portico has foure black marble columnes, and on a table of the same under the Citty arms, a demie eagle and a crosse between crosse-keys, is a motto, ' Post Tene- bras Lux,' and this inscription : — Quum anno 1535 profligata Romans Anti-Christi Tyrannide, abrogatisq ; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christi Religio hie in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singulari Dei beneficio reposita, et simul pulsis fugatisq ; hostibus urbs ipsa in suam Libertatem, non sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit ; Senatus Populusq ; Genevensis Monumentum hoc, perpetuae memoriae causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi curavit, quo suam erga Deum gratitudi- nem ad posteros testatum fuerit. The territories about the towne are not so large as many ordinary gentlemen have about their country farm.es, for which cause they are in continual watch, especialy on the Savoy side ; but in case of any siege the Swisse are at hand, as this inscription in the same place shews, towards the streete : — D. O. M. S. Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevan restituta, et quasi novo Jubileo ineante, pluri- mus vitatis domi et foris insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et Helve- tiorum Primari Tigurini aequo jure in socictatcm perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidissimi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo ad- strinxerint, S. P. Q. G. quod felix se velit D. O. M. tanti beneficii mo- ) numentum consecrarunt, anno temporis ultimi CID.ID.XXXIV. ' In the Senat house were 14 ancient urnes, dug up as they were re- moving earth in the fortifications. A little out of the towne is a spacious field, which they call Campus Martins ; and well it may be so tearm'd with better reason than that of Rome at present (which is no more a field but all built into streetes), tor here on every Sonday after the evening devotions this precise people | permitt their youths to exercise armes, and shoote in gunns and in the I THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. long and crosse bowes, in which they are exceedingly expert, reputed to be as dexterous as.aiy people in the world. To encourage this, they yearely elect him who has won most prizes at the mark to be theii king, as the king of the long-bow, gun, or crosse-bow. He then weares that weapon in his hat in gold, with a crowne over it, made fast to the hat like a broach. In this field is a long house wherein their armes and furniture are kept in several! places very neately. To this joynes a hall where at certain times they meete and feast ; in the glass win- dows are the armes and names of their kings [of arms]. At the side of the field is a very noble Pall Mall, but it turns with an elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a true-table, and here they ride their managed horses. It is also the usual place of publiq execution ol those who suffer for any capital crime tho' committed in another coun- try, by which law divers fugitives have been put to death who have fled hither to escape puishment in their own country. Amongst other severe punishments here, adultery is death. Having scene this field and play'd a game at Mall, I supped with Mr. Saladine. On Sonday I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and after the French mode, in a gowne with a cape and his hat on. The Church Government is severely Presbyterian, after the discipline of Calvin and Beza who set it up, but nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English Sectaries of that denomination. In the afternoone Monsieur Morice, a most learned young person and excellent poet, cheil Professor of the University, preach'd at St. Peter's, a spacious Gotick fabrick. This was heretofore a Cathedral and a reverend pile. It has 4 turrets, on one of which stands a continual sentinel ; on another cannons arc mounted. The Church is very decent within ; nor have they at all defaced the painted windows, which are full of pictures of Saints ; nor the stalls, which are all carv'd with the history of our B. Saviour. In the afternoone I went to see the young towne's-men exercise in Mars Field, where prizes were pewter plates and dishes ; 'tis said that some have gain'd competent estates by what they have thus won. Here 1 first saw huge balistae or crosse-bows shot in, being such as they for- merly us'd in wars before greate guns were known ; they were plac'd in frames, and had greate screws to bend them, doing execution at an incredible distance. They were most accurate at the long-bow and musket, rarely missing the smallest mark. I was as buisy with the car- bine I brought from Brescia as any of them. After every shot I found the marksmen go into the long house and cleanse their guns before they charg'd againe. On Monday I was invited to a little garden without the workes where were many rare tulips, anemonies, and other choice fl^^ers. The Rhone, running athwart the towne out of the Lake, makes haltc the Citty a suburb, which in imitation of Paris they call St. German s Fauxbourg, and it has a church of the same name- On two woodr.n 13 194 COLLEGE OF GENEVA ; THE RHONE ; ROHAN ; ORLEANS. bridges that crosse the river are several water mills, and shops of trades especialy smiths and cuttlers ; between the bridges is an island in the midst of which is a very ancient Tower said to have been built by Julius Caesar. At the end of the other bridge is the Mint, and also a faire Sun-dial. Passing againe by the Towne-house I saw a large crocodile hanging in chaines ; and against the wall of one of the chambers seaven judges v/ere painted without hands, except one in the middle, who has but one hand ; I know not the storie. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well furnish'd and kept. After dinner Mr. Morice led us to the Colledge, a faire structure ; in the lower part are the scholes, which consist of 9 classes ; and an hall above, where the students assemble ; also a good library. They show'd us a very antient Bible of about 300 yeares old in the vulgar French, and a MS. in the old Monkish character: here have the Pro- fessors their lodgings. I also went to see the Hospital, which is very commodious ; but the Bishop's Palace is now a prison. This towne is not much celebrated for beautifuU women, for even at this distance from the Alps the gentlewomen have something full throates, but our Captain Wray (afterwards Sir Wm. eldest son of that Sir Christopher who had both ben in armes against this Majesty for the Parliament) fell so mightily in love with one of M on s, Saladine's daughters that with much persuasion he could not be prevailed on to think on his journey into France, the season now coming on extremely hot. My sicknesse and abode here cost me 45 pistoles of gold to my host, and five to my honest doctor, who for six weekes attendance and the apothecarie thought it so generous a reward, that at my taking leave he presented me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written with his own hand in Latine. This regimen I much observ'd, and I bless God pass'd the journey without inconvenience from sicknesse, but it was an extraordinarily hot unpleasant season and journey by reason of the craggie waies. 5 July, 1646, we tooke or rather purchas'd a boat, for it could not be brought back against the streame of the Rhone. We were two days going to Lions, passing many admirable prospects of rocks and clitTs, and neere the towne down a very stccpe declivitic of water for a full mile. From Lions we proceeded the next morning, taking horse to Rohan, and lay that night at Farrara. At Rohan we indulged our- selves with the best that all France affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentifull, so as the supper we had might have satisfied a prince. We lay that night in damask beds, and were treated like em- peroors. The towne is one of the neatest built in all France, on the iDrink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher to row us lis farr as Orleans. The first night we came as far as Nevers, early enough to see the towne, the Cathedral (St. Cyrc), the Jesuits CqI- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 195 ledge, and the Castle, a Palace of the Duke's, with the bridge to it, which is nobly built. The next day we pass'd by La Charite, a pretty towne somewhat distant from the rivar. Here 1 lost my faithfull spaniel (Piccioli) who had follow'd me from Rome ; it seemes he had ben taken up by some of the Governor's pages or footemen, without recovery, which was a greate displeasure to me because the curr had many useful qualities. The next day we ariv'd at Orleans, taking our turns to row, of which 1 reckon my share came to little less than 20 leagues. Some- times we footed it thro' pleasant fields and meadows ; sometimes we shot at fowls and other birds, nothing came amiss ; sometimes we play'd at cards, whilst others sung or were composing verses, for we had the greate Poet Mr. Waller in our companie, and some other ingenious persons besides. At Orleans we abode but one day ; the next, leaving our mad Cap- taine behind us, I ariv'd at Paris, rejoic'd that after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious peregrination I was gotten so neere home, and here I resolv'd to rest myselfe before I went farther. It was now October, and the onely time that in my whole life I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable recesses ; but I soone re- cover'd my better resolutions and fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish tongues, and now and then refreshing my daunce- ing and such exercises as I had long omitted and which are not in much reputation amongst the sober Italians. 1647, Jan. 28, I chang'd my lodging in the Place de Monsieur de Metz nccre the Abby of St. Germains ; and thence on the 12th Feb. to another in Rue Columbier, where I had a very faire appartement which cost me 4 pistoles per moneth. The l8th I frequented a course of Chemistrie, the famous Mr. Le Febure operating upon most of the nobler processes. March 3, Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the lute, tho' to small perfection. In May I fell sick and had very weak eyes, for which ailment I was foure times let blood. 22 May. My valet (Hebert) robb'd me of cloths and plate to the value of threescore pounds, but thro' the diligence of Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident at the Court of France, and with whose lady and family I had contracted a greate friendship (and particularly set my affections on a daughter) I recover'd most of them, obtaining of the Judge with no small difficulty that the processe against the thiefe should not concerne his life, being his first offence. 10 June. We concluded about my marriage, in order to which I went to St. Germans, where his Majesty, then Prince of Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. Earle, then one of his Chaplains (since Dean of Westminster, Gierke of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisburie) that he would accompany me to Paris, which he did, and on Thursday 27 196 MY MARRIAGE. LEAVE PARIS FOR SAVES COURT AND LONDON. June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richd. Browne's Chapell betwixte the houres of 11 and 12, some few select freinds being present : and this being Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observ'd in this country ; the streetes sumptuously hung with tapistry, and strew'd with flowers. 10 Sept. Being call'd into England to settle my affaires after an absence of about 4 yeares, I tooke leave of the Prince and Queene, leaving my wife, yet very young, under the care of an excellent lady and prudent mother. 4 Oct. I seal'd and declared my Will, and that morning went from Paris, taking my journey thro' Rouen, Dieppe, Ville-dieu, and St. Val- lerie where I staied one day with Mr. Waller with whom I had some affaires, and for which cause I tooke this circle to Calais, where I ariv'd on the nth, and that night imbarking in the paquet-boate, was by one o'clock got safe to Dover, for which I heartily put up my thanks to God who had conducted me safe to my owne country, and ben mercifull to me thro' so many aberrations. Hence taking post I ariv'd at London the next day at evening, being the second of October N.S. 5 Oct. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to my brother, and on the loth to Hampton Court, where I had the honour to kisse his Majesty's hand, and give him an account of several! things I had in charge, he being now in the power of those execrable villians who not long after murder'd him. I lay at my cousin Serjeant Hatton's at Thames Ditton, whence on the T3th I went to London. 14th. To Sayes Court at Deptford in Kent, (since my house), where I found Mr. Pretyman my wife's uncle, who had charge of it and the estate about it during my father-in-law's residence in France. On the I5tb I againe occupied my owne Chambers at the Middle Temple. 9 Nov. My sister open'd to me her marriage with Mr. Glanvill. 1648. 14 Jan. From London I went to Wotton toseemyyoung nephew ; and thence to Baynards [in Ewhurstjto visite my brother Richard. 5 Feb. Saw a Tragie-comedy acted in the Cockpit, after there had ben none of these diversions for many years during the warr. 28. I went with my noble friend Sir Wm. Ducy (afterwards Lord Downe) to Thistleworth, where we din'd with Sir Clepesby Crew, and afterwards to see the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver and rounds of plaster, and then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has some good mcdails and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine Indian hang- ings and a very good chimney-piece oi water colours by Breugel, which I bought for him.. 26 April. There was a greate uprore in London that the Rebell Armie quartering at Whitehall would plunder the Citty, on which there was publish'd a Proclamation for all to stand on tlieir guard. 4 May. Came up the Essex Petitioners for an agreement 'twixt his Majesty and the Rebells. The i6th the Surrey men address'd the Parliatnent for the same ; of which some of them were slayne and THE DIaRY of JOHN EVELYN. 197 murdered by Cromwell's guards in the New Palace Yard. I now sold the Impropriation of South MaUing, neere Lewes in Sussex, to Mr. Kemp and Alcock for £.;^ooo. 30 May. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first rendevous was in Broome field next to my house at Says-Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Colchester, where was that memorable siege. 27 June. I purchased the Manor of Hurcott in Worcestershire of my brother George for ^.3300. 1 July. I sate for my picture, in which there is a Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. 10. Newes was brought me of my Lord Francis Villers being slaine by the Rebells neere Kingston. 16 Aug. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the wedding of my brother Richard, who married the daughter and colieire of Esquire Minn lately deceas'd, by which he had a greate estate both in land and monie on the death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and the bridegroome were, was overturn'd in coming home, but no harm was done them. 28. To London from Says Court, and saw the celebrated follies of Bartholomew Fair. Sept. 1 6. Came my lately married brother Richard and his wife to visite me, when I shewed them Greenewich and her Majesties Palace, now possessed by the Rebells. 28. I went to Albury to visite the Countess of Arundel, and return'd to Wotton. 31 October. I went to see my Manor of Preston Beckhelvyn and the Cliffhouse. 29th Nov. My selfe with Mr. Tho. Offley and Lady Gerrard, christned my niece Mary, eldest daughter of my brother George Eve- lyn by my Lady Cotton his second wife. I presented my niece a piece of plate which cost me ^.18, and caused this inscription to be set on it : ' In memoriam facti Anno ciD.Ix.xlllx. Cal. Decemb. viil. Virginum castiss : Xtianorum innocentiss: Nept: suaviss: Marias, Johan: Evelynus Avunculus et Susceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D. Ave Maria, Gratia sis plena ; Dominus tecum.' 2 December. This day I sold my Manor of Hurcott for £.3400 to one Mr. Bridges. 13. The Parliament now sat up the whole night and endeavour'd to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty, but were surprized by the Rebell Army, the Members dispers'd, and greate confusion every .where in expectation of what would be next. 17. I heard an Italian sermon in Mercers Chapel, one Dr. Mid- dleton, an acquaintance of mme, preaching. 198 HEARD PETER PREACH ; MURDER OF OUR KING. 18. I got privately into the council of the Rebell Army at White- hall, where I heard horrid viilanies. This was a most exceeding wet yeare, neither frost nor snow all the Winter for more than six days in all. Cattle died every where of a murrain. 1649, I J^ri. I had a lodging and some bookes at my father in law*s house, Sayes Court. 2 Jan. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller Mr, Hen- shaw, who had 2 rare pieces of Stenwyck's perspective. 17. To London. I heard the Rebell Peters incite the Rebell Powers met in the Painted Chamber to destroy his Majesty, and saw that arch- traytor Bradshaw, who not long after condemned him. 19. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger of being drowned by our wherries falling foule in the night on another vessell then at anker, shooting the bridge at 3 quarters ebb, for which His mercy God Almighty be prais'd. 21. Was publish'd my Translation of Liberty and Servitude, for the Preface of which I was severely threatened. 22. I went thro' a course of Chymistrie at Sayes Court. Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid tempests of wind. The villanie of the Rebells proceeding now so far as to trie, condemne and murder our excellent King on the 30th of this month, struck me with such horror that I kept the day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be present at that execrable wickednesse, receiving the sad account of it from my brother George and Mr. Owen, who came to visite me this afternoone, and recounted all the circumstances. I Feb. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Norwich, Lord Capell, &c. at their tr}'all before the Rebells New Court of htjustice. 15. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich merchant, who had some good pictures, especialy a rare perspective of Stenwyck ; from thence to other Virtuoso's. The paynter La Neve has an Andromeda^ but I think it a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in France. Webb at the Exchange has some rare things in miniature of Breugel's, also Putti (Boys' Heads) in 12 squares, that were plunder'd from Sir James Palmer. At Du Bois we saw 2 tables of Putti, that were gotten, I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo by old Petit, thought to be Titian's ; he had some good heads of Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar shew'd us an excellent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyre with other figures, for now they had plunder'd, sold, and dispers'd a world of rare paintings of the King's and his loyall subjects. After all, Sir William Ducy shew'd me some excellent things in miniature, and in oyle of Holbein's Sir Tho. M ore's head, and an whole figure of Edward 6tk, which were certainly his Majesty's, also a picture of Quee7te Elizabeth ^ihe. Lady Isabella Thynn; a rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna; and a Magdakn THE DIARV OF JOHN EVELYN. i99 of Quintin the Blacksmith ; also an Hen. 8. of Holbein ; and Francis the first, rare indeede, but of whose hand I know not. 1 6. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de Condc, my wife being shut up with her father and mother, I wrote a letter of con- solation to her; and on the 22d having recommended Obadiah Walker,^ a learned and most ingenious person, to be tutor to and to travell with r^Ir. Hillyard's two sonns, returned to Says Court. 25. Came to visite me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the lymphatic vessells, and an excellent anatomist. 26. Came to see m.e Capt. Geo. Evelyn^ my kinsman, the greate traveller, and one who believed himself a better architect than really he was, witness the Portico in the garden at Wotton ; yet the greate roome at Albury is somewhat better undei::>lood. He had a large mind, but he overbuilt every thing. 27. Came out of France my wife's unkle (Paris still besieged) being rob'd at sea by the Dunkyrk pirates : I lost among other goods my Wife's picture painted by Mons. Bourdon. 5 March. Now were the Lords murder'd in the Palace Yard.^ 18. Mr. Owen, a sequester'd and learned minister, preach'd in my parlour, and gave us the blessed Sacrament, now wholly out of use in the Parish Churches, which the Presbyterians and Fanatics had usurp'd. 21 Mar. I receiv'd letters from Paris from my wife, and from Sii Richard [Browne] with whom I kept a political correspondence, with no small danger of being discover'd. 25. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in these days) in St. Peter's at Paul's Wharf, London ; and in the morning the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious person and learned man. Usher, in Lincoln's Inn Chapell. April 2. To London, and inventoried my moveables that had hitherto ben dispersed for feare of plundring : wrote into France touching my suddaine resolution^ of coming over to them. On the 8th againe heard an excellent discourse from Archbp. Usher on Ephes : 4. v. 26-27. My Italian collection being now ariv'd, came Mouhns the greate Chirurgeon, too see and admire the Tables of Veins and Arteries which I purchas'd and caus'd to be drawne out of several humane bodies at Padua. II. Received newes out of France that peace was concluded : dined with Sir Jo. Evelyn at Westminster ; and on the 13th I saw a private dissection at Moulins' house. 1;. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was blistered and let blood behind the eares and forehead : on the 23rd began to have ease by usmg 1 Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name. 'Sincsc an aposUte.' He was master of University College, Oxford. * Son of Sir John Evelyn of Godstone, 3 Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel. 200 UNKINGSHIP PROCLAIMED ; DORlSLAUS, BURIAL OF. the fumes of cammomile on embers applied to my eares after all fhe ^ihysitians had don their best. 29. I saw in London an huge ox bred in Kent, 17 foote in Icnglh, and much higher than I could reach. [2 May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna in Essex: in flie afternoone went to see Gildron's collections of payntings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter of his late Majesties Bedchamber. 17. Went to Putney by water in barge with divers ladies, to see the .Schooles or Colledges of the young gentlewomen.^ 19. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, v/ho had some good paintings, especialy a Monk at hh beades. 30 May. Un-kingship was proclaim'd, and his Majesty's statues thrown down at St. Panic's Portico and the Exchange. 7 June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir Ralph, Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having ben Amb?.ssador Extraordinary in Spaine, sojourn'd some time with my Father-in-law at Paris ; a most excellent person. Also Signora Lucretia, a Greeke lady, whom I knew in Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentle- man. Also the Earle and Countesse of Arundel, taking leave of them and other friends now ready to depart for France. This night was a scuffle betweene some rebell souldiers and some gentlemen about the Temple. 10. Preach'd the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's Inn from Romans 5. verse 13. I received the Blessed Sacrament preparatory to my journey. 13. I din'd with my worthy friend Sir John Owen, newly freed from sentence of death among the Lords that suffer'd. With him was one Carew, who play'd incomparably on the Welsh Harp: afterwards I treated divers Ladies of my relations, in Spring Garden. This night was buried with great pomp Dorislaus, slaine at the Hague, the villain who manag'd the trial against his sacred Majesty. 17. I got a passe from the rebell Bradshaw, then in greate power. 20. I went to Putney and other places on the Thames to take pros* pects in crayon to carry with me into France, where I thought to have them engrav'd. 2 July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the residence of Sir John Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn of Wilts, when I took leave of both Sir Johns and their ladys. Mem. the prodigious memory 01 Sir John of Wilts daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepoint, and mother of the present Earle c/f Kingston. I returned to Says Court this night. 4. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris with my father-in-law. 1 Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her time : she had been tutor to the Princess Elizabe'ih. King Charles's daughter. There is a very rare portrait of h«J by MarnbiU. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 20! 9. Uin'd with Sir Walter Pye and my good friend Mr. Eaton, after- wards a Judge, who corresponded with me in France. 11. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the Divine, Historian and Poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and other friends, came to take leave of me. 12. It was about 3 in the afternoone I tooke oares for Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin Stephens and sister Glanvill, who there supp'd with me and return'd ; whence I tooke post immediately to Dover, where I ariv'd by 9 in the morning, and about 1 1 that night went on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of 8 guns ; this being the first time the pacquett-boate had obtained a convoy, having several! times before ben pillag'd. We had a good passage, tho' chased for some houres by a pyrate, but he durst not attaq our fregat, and we then chas'd him till he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It was a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I carried over with me my servant Ri. Hoare, an incomparable writer of several hands, whom I afterwards preferr'd in the Prerogative Office, at the return of his Majesty. Lady Catherine Scot, daughter of the Earle of Norwich, follow'd us in a shallop with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, who left England incognito. At the entrance of the towne the Lieut. Governor being on his horse with the Guards let us passe courteously. I visited Sir Richard Lloyd, an English gent in the towne, and walked in the Church, where the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The Citadeh seemes to be impregnable, and the whole country about it to be laied under water by sluices for many miles. 16. We departed for Paris in company with that very pleasant lady, and others. In all this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, which caus'd us to alight often out of our coach and walke separately on foot with our guns ready in all suspected places. I Aug. At 3 in the afternoone we came to St. Denis, saw the rarities of the Church and Treasury, and so to Paris that evening. The next day came to wellcome me at dinner the Lord High Trea- surer Cottington, Sir Edward Hide Chancellor, Sir Edward Nicholas Secretary of State, Sir George Cartret Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having ben absent from my Wife above a yeare and halfe. 18. I went to St. Germain's to kisse his Majesty's hand; in the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's went Mrs. Barlow the King's mistresse and mother to the Duke of Monmouth, a browne, beautifull, bold, but insipid creature. 19. 1 went to salute the French King and the Queene Dowager ; and on the 21st returned in one of the Queenes coaches with my Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Wentworth, & Mr. Croftes, smce created Lord Croftes. , 7 Sept. Went with my Wife and deare Cosin to St. Germames, and 202 PRESIDENT MAISON*S PALACE. DROGHEDA TAKEN. kissed the Qiieene's-mother's hand ; din'd with my L. Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of the greate men of France came to see the King ; the next day came the Prince of Cond^. Returning to Paris we went to see the President Maison's Palace, built castlewise of a milk-white tine freestone ; the house not vast, but well contriv'd, especialy the staire-case and the ornaments of Putti about it. 'Tis inviron'd in a dry moate, the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with extraordinary long walkes set with elmes, and a noble prospect towards the forest and on the Seine towards Paris. Take it altogether, the meadows, walkes, river, forest, corne-ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw any thing in Italy exceede it. The yron gates are very magnificent. He has pulled downe a whole village to make roome for his pleasure about it. 12. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman and one of his Majesties Chap- laines, a learned Grecian who set out the Council of Florence, preached. 13. The King invited the Prince of Condd to supper at St. Cloud ; there I kiss'd the Duke of York's hand in the Tennis Court, where I saw a famous match 'twixt Monsieur Saumeurs and Col. Cooke, and so returned to Paris, 'Twas noised about that I was knighted, a dig- nity which I often declin'd. I Oct. Went with my cousin Tuke (afterwards Sir Samuel) to see the fountaines of St. Cloud and Ruel, and after dinner to talke with the poore ignorant and superstitious Anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so on to Paris. 2. Came Mr. William Coventrie (afterwards Sir William) & the Duke's Secretary, &c. to visite me. 5. Dined with Sir George Radcliffe the greate favourite of the late Earle of Strafford, formerly Lord Deputy of Ireland, decapitated. 7. To the Louvre to visite the Countesse of Morton, Governesse to Madame. 15. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the Rebells and all put to the sword, which made us very sad, fore-running the losse of aU Ireland. 2T. I went to heare Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in the physical garden, and see his laboratorie, he being Prefect of that excellent Garden and Professor Botanicus. 30. I was at the funerall of one Mr. Downes, a sober English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Charenton, where he was interr'd in a cabbage-garden, yet with the office of our Church, which was said before in our Chapell at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried the greate Souldier Gassion, who had a tombe built over him like a fountaine, the designe and materials meane enough. I returned to Paris with Sir Phil : Musgrave, & Sir Marmaduk Langdale, since Lord Langdale. — Memorandum. This was a very sickly and mortal Autumne. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 203 5 Nov. I receiv'd divers letters out of England, requiring me to come over about settling; some of my concerns. 7. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) preach'd in our Chapell on Matt: 4. verse 3. 18. I went with my Father-in-law to his audience at the French Court, where next the Pope's Nuncio he was introduced by the Master of Ceremonies, and after delivery of his credentials, as from our King since his leather's murder, he was most graciously receiv'd by the King of France and his Mother, with whom he had a long audience. This was in the Palais Cardinal. After this, being presented to his Majesty and the Oueene Regent, I went to see the house built by the late greate Cardinal de Richelieu. The most observable thing is the gallerie painted with the portraits of the most illustrious persons and signal actions in France, with innu- merable emblemes 'twixt every table. In the middle of the gallery is a neate chapell rarely paved in worke and devices of severall sorts of marble, besides the altar-piece and 2 statues of white marble, one of St. John, the other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the apart- ments are rarely gilded and carv'd, with some good modern paintings. In the presence hang 3 huge branches of chrystal. In the Frenck King's bed-chamber is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidred bed. The fabric of the Palace is not magnificent, being but of 2 stories, but the garden is so spacious as to containe a noble basin and fountaine con- tinually playing, and there is a Mall, with an elbow or turning to pro- tract it. So I left his Majesty on the terrace, buisie in seeing a bull baiting, and returned home in Prince Edward's coach with Mr. Paule, the Prince Elector's agent. 19. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, an English Sorbonne Divine, we fell into some discourse about Religion. 28 Dec. Going i.o waite on Mr. Waller, I view'd St. Stephen's Church ; the building tho' Gotic is full of carving ; within it is beauti- full, especialy the quire and winding staires. The glasse is well painted, and the tapissry hung up this day about the quire, representing the conversion of Constantine, was exceeding rich. I went to that excellent engraver Du Bosse, for his instruction about explanation of some difficulties in perspective which were delivered in his booke. I concluded this yeare in health, for which I gave solemn thanks to Almighty God \ 29 I christned Sir Hugh Rilies child with Sir Geo. Radcliffe in our Chapell, the parents being so poore that they had provided no gossips, so as severall of us drawing lotts it fell on me, the Deane of Peterborow 1 This he does not fall to repeat at the end of every year, but it wiU not always be neces sary to insert it in this book. 204 PALACE OF MADRID. CUTliNG FOR THE STONE. ASSAULTED. (Dr. Cosin) officiating : we named it Andrew, being on the eve of that Apostle's day. 1650. Jan. I. I began this Jubilie with the pubhq office in our Chapcll : din'd at my Lady Herbert's, wife ot Sir Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper. 18. This night was the Prince of Conde and his Brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. Feb. 6. In the evening came Signor Allessandro, one of the Cardinal Mazarine's musitians, and a person of greate name for his knowledge in art, to visite my wife, and sung before divers persons of quality in my chamber. I March. I went to see the masquerados which was very fantastic, but nothing so quiet and solemn as I found it at Venice. 13. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academic, where divers of the French and English Noblesse, especialy my Lord of Ossorie, and Richard, sonns to the Marquis of Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their exercises on horseback in noble equipage, before a world of spec- tators and greate persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. April 25. I went out of towne to see Madrid, a palace so call'd, built by Francis the First. 'Tis observable onely for its open manner of architecture, being much of tarraces and galleries one over another to the very roofe, and for the materials, which are most of earth painted like Porcelain or China-ware, whose colours appeare very fresh, but is very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this potterie, chimney-pieces and columns both within and without. Under chapell is a chimny in the midst of a roome parted from the Sa//e des Gardes. The house is fortified with a deepe ditch, and has an admi- rable vista towards the Bois de Boulogne and River. 30. I went to see the collection of the famous sculptor Steffano de la Bella returning now into Italy, and bought some prints : and like- wise visited Perelle the landskip graver. 3 May. At the Hospital of La Charity I saw the operation of cutting for the stone. A child of 8 or 9 yeares old underwent the operation with most extraordinary patience, and expressing greate joy when he saw the stone was drawn. The use I made of it was to give Almighty God hearty thankes that I had not ben subject to this deplorable infirmitie. 7. I went with Sir Rich. Browne's lady and my wife, together with the Earle of Chesterfield, Lord Ossorie and his brother, to Vamber, a place neere the Citty famous for butter ; when coming homewards, being on foote, a quarrel arose between Lord Ossorie and a man in a garden, who thrust Lord Ossorie from the gate with uncivil language, on which our young gallants struck the fellow on the pate, and bid him aske pardon, which he did with much submission, and so we parted ; but we were not gon far before we heard a noise behind us, and saw THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 205 people coming with gunns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed flinging stones ; on which we turn'd and were forc'd to engage, and with our swords, stones, and the help of our servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreate for neere a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where we were besieg'd, and at length forc'd to submit to be prisoners. Lord Hatton with some others were taken prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under 3 locks and as many doores in this rude fellow's master's house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. Germain, one of the Presidents of the Grand Chambre du Parliament and a Canon of Notre Dame. Severall of us were much hurt. One of our lacquies escaping to Paris, caused the bailiff of St. Germain to come with his guard and rescue us. Immediately afterwards came Monsieur St. Germain himselfe in greate wrath on hearing that his housekeeper was assaulted ; but when he saw the King's Officers, the Gentlemen and Noblemen, with his Majesty's Resident, and understood the occasion, he was ashamed of the accident, requesting the fellow's pardon, and desiring the ladys to accept their submission and a supper at his house. It was 10 o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, guarded by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under that name, and well known in England for his extravagances,) together with the scholars of two academies who came forth to assist and meete us on horseback, and would faine have alarm'd the towne we receiv'd the affront from, which with much ado we prevented. 12. Complaint being come to the Oueene and Court of France of the affront we had receiv'd, the President was ordered to aske pardon of Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's Resident, and the fellow to make sub- mission and be dismiss'd. There came along with him President de Thou, sonn of the greate Thuanus [the historian,] and so all was com- pos'd. But I have often heard that gallant gentleman m.y Lord Ossorie affirme solemnly that in all the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the most desperate of both which he had often ben) he believ'd he was never in so much danger as when these people rose against us. He us'd to call it the battaill de Vambre, and remember it with a greate deale of mirth as an adventure en cavalier, 24. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a running at the Ring, where were many brave horses, gallants and ladys, my Lord Stanhope entertaining us with a collation. 12 June. Being Trinity Sunday the Dean of Peterborough preach'd ; after which there was an ordination of two Divines, Durell and Brevent (the one was afterwards Deane of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with greate gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring the weight and d'gni.ie of their function, especialy now in a time of the poore Church of England's affliction ; he magnified the sublimity of the calling,^froni the object, vis. the salvation of men's soules, and the glory of God • 2o6 A FUNNY PICTURE. THE MUSEUM AT PONT NEUF. producing many humane instances of the transitorinesse and vanity of all other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the Roman Conquerors made, none was comparable to that of our Blessed Saviours when he lead Captivitie captive, and gave gifts to men, namely that of the Holy Spirit, by which his faithfuU and painefull Ministers triumphed over Satan as oft as they reduc'd a sinner from the errour of his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They were presented by the Deane in their surplices before the altar, the Bishop sitting in a chaire at one side ; and so were made both Deacons and Priests at the same time, in reguard to the necessitie of the times, there being so few Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a failure of both functions. Lastly they proceeded to the Communion. This was all perform'd in Sir Rich. Browne's Chapell at Paris. 13 June. I sate to the famous sculptor Nanteuil, who was after- wards made a kni^bt by the French King for his art. He engrav'd my picture in cop^ cr. At a future time he presented me with my own picture, done all with a pen ; an extraordinary curiosity. 21 June. I went to see the Samaritan or Pump at the end of the Pont Neuf, which tho' to appearance promising no greate matter, is besides the machine, furnish'd with innumerable rarities both of art and nature ; especialy the costly Grotto, where are the fairest corals grow- ing out of the very rock, that I have seen; also great pieces of chrystal, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other mettals and marcasites, with two greate conchas, which the owner told us cost him 200 crownes at Amsterdam. He shew'd us many landskips and prospects very rarely painted in miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers antiquities and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside of the Amphitheater of Titus incomparably drawn by Monsieur St. Clire himselfe; two boys and three skeletons moulded by Fiamingo ; abooke of statues with the pen made for Hen. IV. rarely executed, and by which one may discover many errors in the taille douce of Perrier, who has added divers con- ceits of his owne that are not in the originals. He has hkewise an mfinite collection of taille douces richly bound in Morocco. He led us into a stately chamber furnish'd to have entertain'd a prince, with pic- tures of the greatest masters, especialy a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; the Putti carved in the chimney-piece by the Fleming ; the vasas of porcelan, and many design'd by Raphael ; some paintings of Poussin and Fioravanti ; antiques in brasse ; the looking-glasse and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was greate, choice and magnificent, and not to be pass'd by as I had often don, without the least suspicion that there were such rare things to be scene in that place. At a future visit he shew'd a new grotto and bathing-place, hew'd thro' the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into a wide vault at the intcrcolumnia- tion, so that the coaches and horses thunder'd over our heads. 27 June. I made my Will, and taking leave of my wife and other THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 207 friends tooke horse for England, paying the Messenger s pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, setting out with 17 in company well arc\'d, some Portugezes, Swisse, and French, whereof 6 were Captaines and Officers. We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day to Beauvais. and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reach'd Abbeville ; next din'd at Montreuil, and proceeding met a company of foote (being now within the inroades of the parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from St. Omers and the Frontiers) which we drew very neere to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly were order'd and led by a captaine of our traine ; but as we were on the speede,they card out, and prov'd to be Scotchmen newly rais'dand landed, and few arm'd among them. This night we were well treated at Bollogne. The next day we march'd in good order, the passage being now ex- ceeding dangerous, and got to Calais by a little after two. The sun so scorch'd my face that it made the skin peel off. I din'd with Mr. Booth his Majesty's Agent, and about 3 in the afternoone imbark'd in the packet-boat ; hearing there was a pirate then also setting saile, we had security from molestation, and so with a fair S.W. wind, in seven hours we landed at Dover. The buisy watchman would have us to the Major to be searched, but the gent, being in bed we were dismiss'd. Next day, being Sonday, they would not permit us to ride post, so that afternoone our trunks were visited. The next morning by 4 we sat out for Canterbury, where I met with my Lady Catherine Scot, whom that very day twelve months before I met at sea going for France ; she had been visiting Sir Tho. Peyton not far off, and would needes carry me m her coach to Gravesend. We din'd at Sittingbourn, came late to Gravesend, and so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about 4 the next morning. 5th July. I supped in the Citty with my Lady Catherine Scott at one Mr. Dubois, vyhere was a gentlewoman call'd Everard, that was a very great Chymist. Sun. 7 July. In the afternoone having a mind to see what was doing among the Rebells, then in full possession at Whitehall, I went thither and found one at exercise in the Chapcil, after their way; thence to St. James's, where another was preaching in the Court abroad. 17. I went to London to obtain a passe, intending but a short stay in England. 25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Robert Cook and my sister Glanvill ; the country was now much molested by souldiers, who tooke away gentlemen's horses for the service of the State as then call'd. 4 Aug. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and in the afternoone wan- der'd to divers churches, the pulpits full of novices and novelties. 2o8 LEAVE FOR FRANCE. MISERABLE STATE OF THE PEOPLE. PARIS. 6th. To Mr. Walker's a good painter, who shew'd me an excellent copie of Titian. 12 July. Sat out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and so that night to Canterbury, where being surpriz'd by the souldiers, and having only an antiquated passe, with some tortunate dexterity I got cleare of them, tho' not without extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one with successe, it being so difficult to procure one of the Rebells without entering into oathes, which 1 never would do. At Dover money to the searchers and officers was as authentiq the hand and seale of Bradshaw himselfe, where I had not so much as my trunk open'd. 13. At 6 in the evening set saile fo^ Calais, the wind not favourable I was very sea sick, coming to an ank^r about one o'clock ; about five in the morning we had a long boate to carry us to land tho' at a good distance ; this we willingly enter'd, because two vessells were chasing us, but being now almost at the harbour's mouth, thro' inadvertency there brake in upon us two such heavy seas as had almost sunk the boate, I being neere the middle up in water. Our steeresman it seemes apprehensive of the danger was preparing to leape into the sea and trust to swimming, but seeing the vessell emerge, he put her into the Pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to Calais, tho' wett. Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish frontiers. 16. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 1400 horse and foote (amongst them was a Capt. whom I knew), being come to towne, I took horses for myselfe and servante, and march'd under their protec- tion to Boulogne. 'Twas a miserable spectacle to see how these tatter'd souldiers pillag'd the poore people of their sheepe, poultry, corne, catell, and whatever came in their way ; but they had such ill pay that they were ready themselves to starve. As we pass'd St. Denis the people were in uproar, the guards doubl'd, and every body running with their moveables to Paris, on an alarme that the Enemy was within 5 leagues of them, so miserably exposed was even this part of France at this time. The 30th I got to Paris, after an absence of tv.o moneths onely. I Sept. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner ; Paris, and in* deede all France being full of loyall fugitives. Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which the Popish midwife had baptis'd. Oct. 15. Sir Tho. Osborn (afterwards Lord Treasurer) and Lord Stanhop shot for a wager of 5 Louis to be spent on a treat ; they shot so exact that it was a drawn match. Nov. I, Took leave of my Lord Stanhop going on his journey towards Italy : also visited my Lady Hatton, Comptroller of his Ma- jesties Household, the Countesse of Morton. Governesse to the THE DTARV OF JOHN EVELV^ 209 Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gardner one of the Queen's Maids of Honour. 6. Sir Thomas Osborn supping with us, his groome was set upon in the streete before our house and received two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was carried off to the Charitd hospital. Sir Thomas went for England on the eighth, and carried divers letters for me to my friends. 1 6. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, consisting of 24, two theorbo's and but one bass viol, being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at vespers at Saint Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patronesse of Mu- sitians. News ariv'd of the death of the Prince of Orange of the small pox. 14 Dec. I wente to visite Mt. Ratcliffe, in whose lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed upon us a pretended secret ot multiplying gold ; 'tis certain he had liv'd some time in Paris in extra- ordinarie splendor, but I found him to be an egregious cheate. 22. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visite me. 31. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection the past years, and made up my accompts, which came this yeare to 701 5 livers, neere ;^.6oo sterling. 165 1. I Jan. I wrote to my brother at Wotton about his garden and fountaines. After evening Prayer Mr. Wainsford called on me : he had long ben Consul at Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those countries, the Arabs especialy. 27. I had letters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grandmother-in. law ; she had a most tender care of me during my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinarie charity and piety. 29. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. 34, shewing the mischiefe of covetousnesse. My Lord Marq. of Ormond and Inchiqueen, come newly out of Ireland, were this day at Chapell. 9 Feb. Cardinal Mazarine was proscrib'd by Arret du Parlement, md great commotions began in Paris. 23. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a Convent that has a layr cloister painted with the lives of the Eremites ; a glorious altar now erecting in the chapell ; the garden on a rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and a delicate prospect towards the Citty. 24. I went to see a Dromedarie, a very monstrous beaste, much like the Camel but larger. There was also dauncing on the rope; but above all surprising to those who were ignorant of the addresse, was the water-spouter, who drinking only fountaine water, rendred out of his mouth in severall glasses all sorts of wine and sweete waters, &c. For a piece of money he discover'd the secret to me. I waited on Frier Nicholas at the Convent at Challiot, who being an excellent chymist ihcw'd me his Laboratorie and rare collection of Spagyrical remedies. 14 2IO FRIER NICHOLAS. ACTION OF THE TORTURE. A BALL. He was both physitian and apothecarie of the Convent, and insteadeot the names of his drouges painted his boxes and potts with the figure oi the drug or simple contained in them. He shew'd me as a raritie some 5 of antimoniei : he had cur'd Monsieur Senetan of a desperate sick- nesse, for which there was building a monumental altar that was to cost £iSoo. II March. I went to the Chatelet or Prison, where a malefactor was to have the qr.estion or torture given to him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he was charg'd, which was thus : they first bound his wrist with a strong rope or small cable, and one end of it to an iron ring made fast to the wall about 4 foote from the floore, and then his feete with another cable, fastned about 5 foote farther than his uttmost length to another ring on the floore of the roome : thus suspended and yet lying but aslant, they slid an horse of wood under the rope which bound his feete, which so exceedingly stiffened it, as sever'd the fellow's joynts in miserable sort, drawing him out at length in an extraordinary manner, he having onely a paire of linnen drawers on his naked body: then they questioned him of a robbery (the Lieutenant Criminal being present, and a clearke that wrote), which not confessing, they put an higher horse under the rope, to increase the torture and extension. In this agonie, confessing nothing, the Executioner with a horne (just such as they drench horses with) stuck the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity of two bouketts of water downe his throat and over him, which so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pittied and affrighted any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that was charged to him. They then let him downe, and carried him before a warme fire to bring him to himselfe, being now to all appearance dead with paine. What became of him I know not ; but the gent, whom he rob- bed constantly averr'd him to be the man, and the fellow's suspitious pale lookes, before he knew he should be rack'd, betraied some guilt: The Lieutenant was also of that opinion, and told us at first sight (for he was a leane, dry, black young man) he would conquer the torture ; and so it seemes they could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the gallies, which is as bad as death. There was another Malefactor to succeede, but the spectacle was so uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the sight of another. It represented yet to me, the intollerable sufferings which our Blessed Saviour must needes undergo when his body was hanging with all its weight upon the nailes on the crosse. 20. I went this night with my wife to a Ball at the Marquiss de Crevecoeur's, where were divers Princes, Dukes, and greate persons, but what appeared to me very meane was that it began with a puppet-play. * Qu, some preparation of it ; since perfected by Dr. James, whose name it now bears. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 211 6 May. I attended the Ambassador to a Masque at Court, where the P rench King in person daunced five enteries : but being ingag'd in discourse and better entertained with one of the Queene Regent's Secro taries, I soon left the entertainment. II. To the Palais Cardinal, where the Master of Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque or opera. The first sceane represented a chariot of singers compos'd of the rarest voices that could be procur'd, representing Cornaro ' and Temperance ; this was overthrowne by Bac- chus and his Revellers : the rest consisted of severall enteries and pageants of excesse by all the Elements. A Masque representing Fire was admirable ; then came a Venus out of the Clouds. The conclu- sion was an Heaven whither all ascended. But the glory of the Masque was the greate persons performing in it, the French King, his brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the Court, the King per- forming to the admiration of all. The music was twenty-nine viohns vested a Vantiq^ but the habits of the Masquers were stupendiously rich and glorious. 23 May. I went to take leave of the Ambassadors for Spaine, which were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir Edw. Hide ; and as I return'd I visited Mr. Morine's garden and his other rarities, especialy coralls, minerals, stones and natural curiosities ; crabs of the Red Sea, the body no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the 2 leggs or claws a foote in length. He had aboundance of shells, at least 1000 sorts, which furnish'd a cabinet of greate price ; and had a very curious col- lection of scarabees and insects, of which he was compiling a natural historic. He had also the pictures of his choice flowers and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 sorts of tulips onely. He had tailledouces out of number ; the head of the rynoceros bird, which was very extravagant, and a butterflie resembling a perfect bird. 25. I went to visit Mr. White, a learned priest and famous philoso- pher, author of the booke De Mundo, with whose worthy brother I was well acquainted at Rome. I was shew'd a cabinet of Maroquin or Turkey leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and guilding, that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. The Dean (of Peterboro') preach'd on the feast of Pentecost, per- stringing those of Geneva for their irreverence of the Blessed Virgm. 4 June. Trinity Sunday I was absent from Church in the afternoone on a charitable affaire for the Abbesse of Boucharvant, who but for me had been abus'd by that chymist Du Menie. Returning I stept into the grand fesuites, who had this high day expos'd their Cibarium, made all of solid gold and imasjerie. a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croydon, who was coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me on his return to England. 5. 1 accompanied my L. Strafford and some other noble persons to 1 The famous Venetian writer on Temperance. 212 DR. STEWARD. BATHING AT CONFLANS ; ESCAPES OF SIR L. DIVES. heare Madame Lavaran sing, which she did both in French and Italian excellently well, but her voice was not strong. 7 June. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, all the streetes tapisstred, severall altars erected there, full of images and other rich furniture, especialy that before the Court, of a rare designe and architecture. There were aboundance of excellent pictures and great vases of silver. 13. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur Poignant, which for variety of achates, chrystals, onyxes, porcelain, medails, statues, re- lievos, paintings, taille douces and antiquities, might compare with the Italian virtuosos. 21. I became acquainted with Sir William Curtius, a very learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. He had ben scholar to Alste- dius the Encyclopedist, was well advanc'd in yeares, and now Resident for his Majestic at Frankfort. 2 July. Came to see me the Earle of Strafford, Lord Ossory and his Brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edvv: Stawell, two of my Lord Spen- cer's Sonns, and Dr. Stewart Deane of St. Paules, a learned and pious man, where we entertained the time upon severall subjects, especialy the affaires of England and the lamentable condition of our Church. The Ld. Gerrard called to see my collection of sieges and battles. 21 July. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our Chapell, Dr. Steward Dean of St. Paul's preaching. 2 Aug. I went with my wife to Conflans, where were aboundance of ladys and others bathing in the river ; the ladys had their tents spread on the water for privacy. 29 Aug. Was kept as a solemn e Fast for the calamities of our poore Church now trampled on by the Rebells. Mr. Waller being at St. Germains, desir'd me to send him a coach from Paris to bring my wife's god-daughter to Paris, to be buried by the Common Prayer. 6 Sept. I went with my wife to St. Germains to condole with Mr. Waller's losse. I carried with me and treated at dinner that excellent and pious person the Deane of St. Paul's Dr. Steward, and Sir Lewes Dives (half-brother to the Earle of Bristol) who entertain'd us with his wonderful escape out of prison in White-hall the very evening before he was to have ben put to death, leaping down out of a jakes two stories high into the Thames at high water, in the coldest of winter and at night ; so as by swimming he got to a boate that attended for him, tho' he was guarded by six musqueteeres. After this he went about in womens habite, and then in a small-coale-man's, travelling 200 miles on foote, embark'd for Scotland with some men he had raised, who coming on-shore were all surpriz'd and imprison'd on the Marq. of Montrose's score, he not knowing any thing of their barbarous murder of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and none less mira- culous, with this note, that the chargeing thro' 1000 men arm'd. or THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 213 whatever danger could befall a man, he believ'd could not more confound and distract a man's thoughts than the execution of a premeditated escape, the passions of hope and feare being so strong. This knight was indeede a valiant gentleman, but not a little given to romance when he spake of himselfe. I returned to Paris the same evening. 7 Sept. I went to visite Mr. Hobbs, the famous philosopher of Malmsbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. From his window A^e saw the whole equipage and glorious cavalcade of the young French Monarch Lewis XIV. passing to Parliament when first he tooke the kingly government on him, now being in his 14th yeare, out of his minority and the Queene Regent's pupillage. First came the captaine )f the King's aydes at the head of 50 richly liveried ; next the Queene Mother's light horse, an hundred, the lieutenant being all over cover'd with embroiderie and ribbans, having before him 4 trumpets habited in black velvet, full of lace and casques of the same ; then the King's light horse, 200, richly habited, with 4 trumpets in blue velvet em- brodred with gold, before whom rid the Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet] whose belt was set with pearle ; next went the grand Prevost's company on foote with the Prevost on horseback ; after them the Swisse in black velvet toques led by 2 gallant cavalieres habited in scarlet-colour'd sattin after their country fashion, which is very fantas- tick ; he had in his cap a petmach of heron with a band of diamonds, and about him 12 Httle Swisse boyes with halberds; then came the Ayde des Cereino7iies ; next the grandees of court, governors of places, and lieutenants general of provinces, magnificently habited and mounted, among whom I must not forget the Chevalier Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, because 'tis said he had never been an Academist, and yet govern'd a very unruly horse, and besides his rich suite, his Malta Cross was esteem'd at 10,000 crownes; these were headed by 2 trumpets, and the whole troup cover'd with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were foUow'd by 6 trumpets in blew velvet also, preceeding as many heralds in blew velvet sem^e with fleurs de lys, caduces in their hands and velvet caps on their heads ; behind them came one of the masters of the ceremonies ; then divers marishalls & many of the nobility, exceeding splendid ; behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand escuyer, alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, which he held up in a blew sheath studded with fleurs de lys ; his horse had foi reines 2 scarfs of black taffata ; then came aboundance of footemen and pages of the King, new liveried with white and red feathers ; next the guard de corps and other officers ; and lastly appear'd the Kmg him- selfe on an Isabella Barb, on which a houssing semce with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and fleurs de lys ; the Kmg himself . hke a young Apollo, was in a sute so cover'd with rich embrodry, that one could perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost the whole way with his hat in hind, saluting the ladys and acclamators who had 214 MAJORITY OF LOUIS XIV. AT COURT. BATTAIL OF WORCESTER. filled the windows with their beauty, and the aire with Vive le Roy, He seem VI a prince of a grave yet sweete countenance. After the King follow'd divers greate persons of the Court exceeding splendid, also his esquires, masters of horse on foote, then the company of Exempts des Gardsy and 6 guards of Scotch ; 'twixt their files were divers princes of the blood, dukes, and lords ; after all these, the Oueene's guard of Swisse, pages, and footemen ; then the Queene Mother herselfe in a rich coach, with Monsieur the King's brother, the Duke of Orleans, and some other lords and ladys of honour ; about the coach march'd her Exe?npts des Cards, then the company of the King's Gens d'annes well mounted, 1 50, with 4 trumpets and as many of the Queene's ; lastly, an innumerable company of coaches full of ladys and gallants. In this equipage pass'd the Monarch to the Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government. 15 Sept. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father-in-law, to the French Court, where he had a favourable audience of the French King and the Queene his Mother, congratulating the one on his coming to the exercise of his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy administration during her late Regency, desiring both to preserve the same amitie for his Master, our King, as they had hitherto don, which they both promis'd with many civil expressions and words of course upon such occasions. We were accompanied both going and return- ing by the Introductor of Ambassador and Ayd of Cermonies. I also saw the audience of Morosini the Ambassador of Venice, and divers other Ministers of State from German Princes, Savoy, &c. Afterwards I tooke a walke in the King's gardens, where I observ'd that the Mall gos the whole square thereof next the wall, and bends with an angle so made as to glace [glance] the ball ; the angle is of stone. There's a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble fountaine and high jetto. There were in it 2 or 3 boates in which the King now and then rowes about. In another part is a compleate fort, made with bastions, graft, halfe-moones, ravelins, and furnish'd with greate gunns cast on purpose to instruct the King in fortification. 22. Ariv'd the news of the fatal battail at Worcester, which exceed- ingly mortified our expectations. 28. I was shew'd a collection of books and of prints made for the Duke of York. I Oct. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] preach'd on 13 Job V. 15, encouraging our trust in God on all events and extremities, and for establishing and comforting some ladys of greate qualitie, who were then to be discharg'd from our Q. Mother's service, unlesse they would go over to the Romish Masse. The Dean dining this day at our house, told me the occasion of pub- lishing those Offices which among the Puritans were wont to be call'd THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 215 Cosins consintng Devotions^ by way of derision. At the first coming of the Queene into England, she and her French ladys were often up- braiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor set forth any houres of prayer or breviaries, by which ladies and courtiers, who have much spare time, might edify and be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladys, scandaliz'd it seemes at this, mov'd the matter to the King, whereupon his Majesty presently call'd Bishop White to him, and asked his thoughts of it, and whether there might not be found some formes of prayer proper on such occasions, collected out of some already approved formes, that so the court ladys and others (who spend much time in trifling) might at least appeare as devout, and be so too, as the new-come-over French ladys, who tooke occasion to reproch our >vant of zeale and religion. On which the Bishop told his Majesty that it might be don easily and was very necessary ; whereupon the King commanded him to employ some person of the Clearc^y to compile such a work, and presently the Bishop naming Dr. Cosin, the King injoyn'd him to charge the Dr. in his name to set about it immediately. This the Dean told me he did, and 3 monethes after bringing the book to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to reade it over and make his report ; this was so well lik'd that (contrary to former custome of doing it by a chaplain) he would n cedes give it an imprimatur \m^^r his owne hand. Upon this there were at first onely 200 copies printed ; nor, said he, was there any thing in the whole book of my owne com- posure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but those necessary prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching the times and seasons of prayer, all the rest being intirely translated and collected out of an Office, published by authority of Q. Elizabeth, ao 1560, and our owne Liturgie. This I rather mention to justify that industrious and pious Deane, who had exceedingly suffer'd by it, as if he had don it of his owne head to introduce Popery, from which no man was more averse, and one who in this time of temptation and apostacy held and confirm'd many to our Church^. 29 October. Came newes and letters to the Queene and Sir Rich- ard Browne (who was the first that had intelligence of it) of his Majes- ties miraculous escape after the fight at Worcester, which exceedingly rejoiced us. 7 Nov. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom I had much dis- 1 So called by Mr. Prynne in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was sequestered from all his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to Paris 1643- He kept up the service of the Church of England in Sir Rich. Browne's chapel there. On the Restoration he was made Bishop of Durham, to which See, as well as to Peter House, at Cambridge, of which he had been Master, he was a most munificent benefactor. He died in 1671. 'The Clergy who attended the English Court at this time and are mentioned to have oftici- «ted in Sir Richard Browne's Chapel were: The Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. Geo. Morley afterwards Bishop of Winchester ; Dr. Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, afterwards Bishop of Durham; Dr. Steward Dean of St. Paul's; Dr. Earle; Dr. Clare: Dr. WoUey, no great Preacher; Mr. Crowder; Dr. Lloyd; Mr. Hamilton; Dr. Duncan. 2l6 DEATH OF DR. STEWARD. MARRIAGE OF MRS. GARDNER. course of chymical matters. I shew'd him a particular way of ex- tracting oyle of sulphur, and he gave me a certaine powder with which he affirm'd that he had fixed ^ (mercury) before the late King ; he advis'd me to try and digest a little better, and gave me a water which he said was onely raine water of the autumnal equinox exceedingly rectified, very volatile ; it had a taste of a strong vitrioliq, and smelt like aqua fortis. He intended it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is. Sir Kenelm was an errant mountebank. — Came news of the gallant Earle of Derby's execution by the rebells. 12. Dr. Clare preach'd on 28 Gen. v. 20, 21, 22, upon Jacob's vowe, which he appositely applied, it being the first Sonday his Majesty came to Chapell after his escape. I went in the afternoone to visite the Earle of Norwich ; he lay at the Lord of Aubignies. 16. Visited Dean Steward, who had been sick about 2 daies, when goingup to his lodging I found him dead, which affected me much, as be- sides his particular affection and love to me, he was of incomparable parts and great learning, of exemplary life, and a very greate losse to the whole Church. He was buried the next day with all our Church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompanying the corps. 17. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. Gardner, maid of honor, lately married to that odd person Sir Henry Wood : but riches do many things. I went to see Monsieur Fcbur's course of Chymistrie,'where I found Sir Kenelm Digby and divers curious persons of learning and quality. It was his first opening the course and preliminarys in order to operations. I Dec. I now resolv'd to returne into England. 3. Sir Lewis Dives din'd with us, who relating some of his adven- tures, shew'd me divers pieces of broad gold which, being in his pocket in a fight, preserv'd his life by receiving a musket-bullet on them, which deaden'd its violence so that it went no further, but made such a stroake on the gold as fix'd the impressions upon one another, bat- tering and bending severall of them ; the bullet itselfe was flatted, and retained on it the colour of the gold. He assur'd us that of an hundred of them, which it seems he then had in his pocket, not one escap'd without some blemish. He affirm'd that his being protected by a Neapolitan Prince who conniv'd at his bringing some horses into France, contrary to the order of the Vice-roy, by assistance of some banditti, was the occasion of a difference betweene those greate men, and consequently of the late civil war in that kingdom, the Vice-roy having kill'd the Prince standing on his defence at his owne castle. He told me that the second time of the Scots coming into England, the King was six times their number, and might easily have beaten them, but was betraied, as were all other his designes and councils by some, even of his bed-chamber, meaning M, Hamilton, who copied Mon- trose's letters from time to time when his Majesty was asleepe. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 217 II. Came to visite me Mr. Obadiah Walker of University College, with his two Pupils the sons of my worthy friend Hen. Hyldiard, Esq. whom I recommended to his care. 21. Came to visite my wife Mrs. Lane, the lady who conveied the King to the sea-side at his escape from Worcester. Mr. John Cosin, son to the Dean, debauch'd by the priests, wrote a letter to me to me- diate for him with his father. I prepar'd tor my last journey, being now resolved to leave France altogether. 25. The King and Duke receiv'd the Sacrament first by themselves, Lords Biron and Wilmot holding the long towell all along the altar. 26. Came news of the death of that Rebell Ireton. 31. Preach'd Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated the Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative of my journey, being now resolved to leave France altogether, and to returne God Almighty thanks for his gracious protection of me this past yeare. 1652, 2 Jan. News of my sister Glanville's death in childbed, which exceedingly affected me. I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in enamailing. He wrought by the lamp figures in bosse of a large size, even to the life, so that nothing could be better moulded. He told us greate stories of a Genoese Jeweller who had the greate Arcanum, and had made projection before him severall times. He mett him at Cyprus travelling into Egypt, in his returne from whence he died at sea, and the secret with him, that else he had promised to have left it to him ; that all his effects were seized on and dissipated by the Greekes in the vessell to an immense value. He also affirm'd, that being in a Gold- smith's shop in Amsterdam, a person of very low stature came in and desired the goldsmith to mealt him a pound of lead, which don he un- screw'd the pummel of his sword, and taking out of a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the crucible, pour'd an ingot out, which when cold, he tooke up, saying, ' Sir, you will be paid foi your lead in the crucible,' and so went out immediately. When he was gon the goldsmith found 4 ounces of good gold in it, but could never set eye againe on the little man, tho' he sought all the Citty for him. This Antonio asserted with greate obtestation, nor know I what to think of it, there are so many impostors and people who love to tell strange stories, as this artist did, who had been a greate rover, and spake ten different languages. 13 Jan. I tooke leave of Mr. Waller, who having ben proscrib'd by the Rebells, had obtain'd of them permission to leturne, and was gomg to England. 29. Aboundance of my French and English friends and some Ger- mans came to take leave of me, and I set out in a coach for Calais m an exceeding hard frost which had continued some time. We got that night to Beaumont; 30. to Beauvais ; 31. we found the ways very 21 8 LEAVE FRANCE ; REACH SAVES COURT. FUNERAL OF IRETON. deepe with snow, and it was exceeding cold ; din'd at Pois ; lay at Pern^e, a miserable cotta-^e of miserable people in a wood, wholly un- furnish'd, but in a little time we had Gorry beds and some provision, which they told me they hid in the wood for feare of the frontier enemy, the garrisons neere them continually plundering what they had. They were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember that I ever saw more miserable creatures. I Feb. I din'd at Abbeville ; 2. din'd at Montreuil, lay at Bologne; 3. came to Calais by 11 in the morning ; I thought to have embarqu'd in the evening, but for feare of Pyrates plying neere the coast, I durst not trust our small vessell, and stay'd till Monday following, when 2 or 3 lusty vessells were to depart. I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, sometime before made to resigne his fellowship in King's Coll. Cambridge, be- cause he would not take the Covenant. He had ben a souldier in Flanders, and came miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and some relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges into England, and clad and provided for him till he should find some better condition ; and he was worthy of it.^ There came with us also Capt. Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, brother to Sir Timothy Tyrell of Shotover (near Oxford). At Calais I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met with Mr, Heath, Sir Richard Lloyd, Capt. Paine, and divers of our banish'd friends, of whom understanding that the Count de la Strade Governor of Dynkirke was in the towne, who had bought my wife's picture, taken by Pyrates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for me in England) as my Lord of Norwich had inform'd me at Paris, I made my addresse to him, who frankly told me that he had such a picture in his owne bed-chamber amongst other ladys, and hr\w he came by it ; seeming well pleas'd that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, and he generously promis'd to send it to any friend I had at Dover ; I mentioned a French merchant there, and so tooke my leave. 6 Feb. I embark'd early in the packet-boat, but put my goods in a stouter vessell. 'Twas calm, so that we got not to Dover till 8 at night. I tooke horse for Canterbury, and lay at Rochester ; next day to Gravesend, tooke a pair of oares, and landed at Sayes Court, where I stayed three days to refresh and look after my packet and goods, sent by a stouter vessell. I went to visit my co: Richard Fanshawe, and divers other friends. March 6. Saw the magnificent funeral of that Arch-rebell Ireton, carried in pomp from Somerset House to Westminster, accompanied with divers regiments of souldiers horse and foote ; then marched the mourners. General Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament- men, officers, and 40 poore men in gownes, 3 led horses in housings of * Mr. Evelyn did afterwards procure him a situation. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 219 black doth, 2 led in black velvet, and his charging-horse all covered over with embrodery and gold on crimson velvet ; then the guydons, ensignes, 4 heraulds carrying the armes of the State (as they cal'd it), namely, the red crosse and Ireland, with the casq, wreath, sword, spurrs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and 6 horses, in which was the corps ; the pall held up by the mourners on foote ; the mace and sword, with other marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus in a grave pace, drums covei-^d with cloth, souldiers reversing their armes, they proceeded through the streetcs in a very solemn manner. This Ireton was a stout rebell, and had ben very bloudy to the King's party, witnesse his severity at Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death those gallant gentlemen. Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir George Lisle. My CO. R. Fanshawe came to visite me and informe me of many consider- able affaires. Sir Henry Herbert presented me with his brother my Lord Cherburie's book ' De Veritate.' 9. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for my settle- ment, no more intending to go out of England, but endeavour a settl'd life, either in this or some other place, there being now so little appear- ance of any change for the better, all being entirely in the Rebells hands, and this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it (belonging to my father-in-law actually in his Majesty's service), very much suffering for want of some friend to rescue it out of the power of the usurpers ; so as to preserve our interest, and take some care of my other concernes, by the advice and endeavour of my friends I was ad- vis'd to reside in it, and compound with the souldiers. This I was be- sides authoriz'd by his Majesty to do, and encourag'd with a promise that what was in lease from the Crowne, if ever it pleas'd God to restore him, he would secure to us in fee-ferme. I had also addresses and cyfers to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad : upon all which inducements I was persuaded to settle henceforth in England, having now run about the world, most part out of my owne country, neere 10 yeares. I therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my wife, whom as yet I had left at Paris. 14 Mar. I went to Leusham, where I heard an honest sermon on 2 Corinth. 5, 7, being the first Sonday I had ben at church since my retume, it being now a rare thing to find a priest of the Church of England in a parish pulpit, most of which were fill'd with Independents and Phanatics. 15 Mar. I saw the Diamond and Ruby launch'd in the Dock at Deptford, carrying 48 brasse cannon each. Cromwell and his Gran- dees present with greate acclamations. 18. That worthy divine Mr. Owen of Eltham, a sequestered person, came to visite me. , 19. Invited by Lady Gerrard I went to London, where we had » 220 PRIMATE OF IRELAND, ECLIP5E OF THE SUN. greate supper ; all the vessells, which were innumerable, were of Porce- lan, she having the most ample and richest collection of that curiositie in England. 22. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton to give him what directions I was able about his garden, which he was now desirous to put into some foiTne ; but for which he was to remove a mountaine overgrowne with huge trees and thicket, with a moate within lo yards of the house. This my brother immediately attempted, and that with- out greate cost, for more than an hundred yards South, by digging downe the mountaine and flinging it into a rapid streame, it not onely carried away the sand, &c. but filled up the moate, and level'd that noble area, where now the garden and fountaine is. The first occasion of my brother making this alteration was my building the little retiring place betweene the greate wood Eastward next the meadow, where sometime after my father's death I made a triangular pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock after my coming out of Flanders. 29 Mar. I heard that excellent Prelate the Primate of Ireland (Jacob: Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on 4 Hebrews, v. 16, encouraging of penitent sinners. 5 April. My brother Geo. brought to Says Court Cromwell's Act of Oblivion to all that would submit to the Government. 13. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my brother George's wife, was deliverd of a son. I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the letter which sometime since I sent to Deane Cosin's proselyted son ; but I did not conceive it convenient, for feare of displeasing her Majesty the Queene 15. I wrote to the Deane touching my buying his library, which was one of the choicest collections of any private person in England. The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely sent me the picture of my wife from Dynkirk in a large tin case, without any charge. It is of Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to the knees, but unfortunately it has been something spoil'd by washing it ignorantly with soap-suds. 25. I went to visit Aid. Kendrick, a Fanatic Lord Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met with a Captain who had been thirteen times to the East Indies. 29. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun so much threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly alarm'd the whole Nation that hardly any one would worke, nor stir out of their houses. So ridi- culously were they abus'd by knavish and ignorant star-gazers. We went this afternoone to see the Oueene's House at Greenwich, now given by the rebells to Bulstrode Whitlock, one of their unhappy counsellors, and keeper of pretended liberties. 10 May. Passing by Smithficld I saw a miserable creature burning who had murder'd her husband. I went to see some workmanship of THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. tnat admirable artist Reeves, famous for perspective and the turning of curiosities in ivorie. 29. I went to take order about a coach to be made against my wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern whereof I had brought out of Paris. 30. I went to obtain of my Lord of Devonshire that my nephew George might be brought up with my young Lord his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase. I also inspected the manner of cham- bletting silk and grograms at one Monsieur La Dorees in Morefields, and thence to Coll. Morley, one of their Councel of State, as then call'd, who had ben my scholefellow, to request a passe for my wife's safe landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out of France, which he courteously granted, and did me many other kindnesses, that was a greate matter in those daies. 30. In the afternoone at Charlton Church, where I heard a Rabini- cal sermon. Here is a faire monument in black marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built that faire house neere it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend Sir Henry Newton succeeded him. 3 June. I receiv'd a letter from Collonel Morley to the Magistrates and Searchers at Rie, to assist my wife at her landing and to shew her all civility. 4. I set out to meet her now on her journey from Paris, after she had obtain'd leave to come out of that Citty, which had now ben be- sieged some time by the Prince of Condi's armie in the time of tlie rebeUion, and after she had ben now neere twelve yeares from her owne country, that is since five yeares of age, at which time she went over. I went to Rie to meet her, where was an embargo on occasion of the late conflict with the Holland fleete, the two Nations being now in warr, and which made sailing very unsafe. On Whitsunday I went to the Church (which is a very faire one), and heard one of their Canters, who dismissed the assembly rudely and witli- out any blessing. Here I stay'd till the loth with no small impatience, when I walk'd over to survey the ruines of Winchelsea, that ancient Cinq-port, which by the remaines and ruines of ancient streetes and public structures discovers it to have ben formerly a considerable and large Citty. There are to be seene vast caves and vaults, walls and towers, ruines of monasteries and of a sumptuous church, in which are some handsom monuments, especialy of the Templars, buried just m the manner of those in the Temple at London. This place being now all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovells and cottages onely stand- ing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea which formerly rendered it a rich ana commodious port has now forsaken it. II. About 4 in the afternoone being at bowles on the Greene, we dis- cover'd a vessell, which prov'd to be that in which my wife was, ana which got into the harbour about 8 that evening to my no small joy. The> 222 ARRIVAL OF MY WIFE FROM FRANCE, ROBBED BY FOOTPADS. had ben three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleete, thro' which they pass'd, taken for fishers, which was great good fortune, there being 17 bailes of furniture and other rich plunder, which I blesse God came all safe to land, together with my wife, and my Lady Browne her mother, who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed by having been so long at sea, we set not forth towards home till the 14th, when hearing the small-pox was very rife in and about London, and Lady Browne having a desire to drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them thither and staled in a very sweete place, private and refreshing, and tooke the waters myself to the 23d, when I went to prepare for their reception, leaving them for the present in their Httle cottage by the Wells. The weather being hot, and having sent my man on before, I rod negli- gently under favour of the shade, till within three miles of Bromley, at a place call'd the Procession Oake, two cut-throates started out, and striking with long staves at the horse and taking hold of the reines threw me downe, took my sword, and haled me into a deepe thickett some quarter of a mile from the highway, where they might securely rob me, as they soone did. What they got of money was not considerable, but they took two rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an onyx, and a pair of bouckles set with rubies and diamonds, which were of value, and after all bound my hands behind me, and my feete, having before pull'd off my bootes ; they then set me up against an oake, with most bloudy threats to cutt my throat if I offcr'd to crie out or make any noise, for they should be within hearing, I not being the person they looked for. I told them if they had not basely surpri::'d me they should not have had so easy a prize, and that it would teach me never to ride neere an hedge, since had I ben in the mid-way they durst not have adventur'd on me ; at which they cocked their pistols, and told me they had long guns too, and were 14 companions. I begg'd for my onyx, and told them it being engraven with my armes would betray them, but nothing prevail'd. My horse's bridle they slipt, and search'd the saddle, which they pull'd off, but let the horse graze, and then turning againe bridl'd him and tied him to a tree, yet so as he might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was perhaps not taken because he was mark'd and cropt on both eares, and well known on that roade. Left in this manner grievously was I tormented with flies, ants, and the sunn, nor was my anxiety little how I should get loose in that solitary place, where I could neither heare or see any creature but my poore horse and a few sheepe stragling in the copse. After neere 2 houres attempting I got my hands to turn palm to palm, having been tied back to back, and then it was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists to m.y thumb, which at last I did, and then soone unbound my fecte, and saddling my horse and roaming awhile about I at last pcrceiv'd dust to rise, and soone after heard the rattling of a cart, to^vards which I made, and by the help of two countiy men I got back into the high way. I rode to THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 223 Coll. Blount's, a greate justiciarie of the times, who sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, sore as my wrists and armes were, I went to London and got 500 tickets printed and dispers'd by an officer of Goldsmiths Hall, and within 2 daies had tidings of all I had lost except my sword v/hich had a silver hilt, and some tritles. The rogues had pawn'd one of my rings for a trifle to a goldsmith's ser\'ant before the tickets had came to the shop, by which meanes they scap'd; the other ring was bought by a victualler, who brought it to a gold- smith, but he having seen the ticket seiz'd the man. I afterwards dis- charg'd him on his protestation of innocence. Thus did God dehver me from these villains, and not onely so, but restor'd what they tooke, as twice before he had graciously don, both at sea and land ; I meane when I had ben rob'd by pyrates, and was in danger of a considerable losse at Amsterdam ; for which, and many, many signal preservations, I am extreamely oblig'd to give thanks to God my Saviour. 25 May. After drowth of neare 4 monethes there fell so violent a tempest of haile, raine, wind, thunder, and lightning, as no man had seene the like in this age ; the haile being in some places four or five inches about, brake all glasse about London, especialy at Deptford, and more at Greenwich. 29. I returned to Tunbridge, and againe drank the water, till 10 July. We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickard at Summer-hill near Tunbridge (now given to that villain Bradshaw who condemned the King.) 'Tis situated on an eminent hill, with a park, but has no- thing else extraordinary. 4 July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's' Chapell at Grooms- bridge,^ a pretty melancholy seate, well wooded and water'd. In this house was one of the French Kings' kept prisoner. The Chapell was built by Mr. Packer's father, in remembrance of K. Charles the First his safe retume out of Spaine." 9. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, famous once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the noble conversation which was wont to meete there, celebrated by that illustrious person Sir Philip Sidney, who had there compos'd divers of his pieces. It stands in a park, is finely water'd, and was now full of company on the marriage of my old fellow collegiate Mr. Robert Smith, who married my Lady Dorothy Sidney' widdow of the Earle of Sunderland. One of the men who robb'd me was taken ; I was accordingly sum- mon'd to appeare against him, and on the 12th was in Westminster 1 Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Charles I. 2 In the parish of Speldhurst in Kent, four miles from Tunbridge. 3 The Duke of Orleans taken at the battle of Agincourt 4 Hen. V. by Richard Walltf, then owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, vol. I. p. 431. . . . 4 With this inscription over the door, * D. O. M. 1625. ob felicissimi Caroli Prmapu ex Hispania reducis Sacellura hoc D. D. 1. P.' over it the device of the Prince of Wales. ' Mr. Waller's S charissa, daughter of Philip Earl of Leicester. ^^4 REDEEM SAVES COUKT. DR. MASON. DEATH OF LADY BROWNE. Hall, but not being bound over nor willing to hang the fellow I did not appeare, coming onely to save a friend's baile, but the bill being found he was turn'd over to the Old Bailey. In the meane time I received a petition from the prisoner, whose father I understood was an honest old farmer in Kent. He was charg'd with other crimes, and con- demn'd, but repriev'd. I heard afterwards that had it not been for his Fompanion, a younger man, he would probably have kill'd me. He tvas afterwards charg'd with some other crime, but refusing to plead, was press'd to death. 23. Came my old friend Mr. Spencer to visite me. 30 July. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's [Browne] interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. I Aug. Came old Jerome Lennier of Greenwich, a man skill'd in painting and musiq, and another rare musitian call'd Mell. ! went to see his collection of pictures, especialy those of Julio Romano which surely had ben the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were also excellent things of Polydore, Guido, Raphael, Tintoret, &c. Lennier had been a domestic of Qu. Elizabeth, and shew'd me her head, an intaglia in a rare sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assur'd me was exceeding like her. 24. My first child, a sonn, was born precisely at one o'clock. Sept 2. Mr. Owen, the sequestered Divine of Eltham, christened my sonn by the name of Richard. 25. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and the description of it in Barcla/s Icon Animarum.' 22. I went to Woodcot, where Lady Browne was taken with a scarlet fever and died. She was carried to Deptford, and interr'd in the Church neere Sir Richard's relations with all decent ceremonies, and according to the Church Office, for which I obtained permission, after it had not ben us'd in that Church of 7 yeares. Thus ended an excellent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having ben so obliging on all occasions to those who continualy frequented her house in Paris, which was not only an hospital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and afflicted countiymen during eleven yeares residence there in that honourable situation. 5 Nov. I went to London to visite some friends, but the in- solencies there were so greate in the streetes that I could not returne till the next day. I The book here referred to is in the British Museum, intitled, "Joannis Barclait Ico» Animarum," printed at London 1614, small i2mo. It is written in Latin, and is dedicated to Lewis XI IL of France, for what reason does not appear, the Author speaking of himself as a subject of this Country. It mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener forms his trees ; the difTc-rent dispositions jji men in different nations ; English, Scotcti, and Irish, &c. Cap. 2, contains a florid description of the beautiful scenery about Greenwich, but does not mention Dr. Mason or his house. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables of Veins md Arteries to the Colledge of Physitians, pretending he would not onely reade upon them, but celebrate my curiositie as being the first who caus'd them to be compleated in that manner, and with that cost ; but I was not so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the Colledge during their anatomical lectures, which I did accordingly. 22. I went to London, where was propos'd to me the promoting that greate work, (since accomplish'd by Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester) Biblia Polyglotta, by Mr. Pierson that most learned divine. 25. Christmas day, no sermon any where, no Church being per- mitted to be open, so observ'd it at home. The next day we went to Lewesham, where an honest divine preach'd. 31 Dec. I adjusted all accompts, and render'd thanks to Aliiiighty God for his mercys to me the yeare past. I Jan. 1653. I set apart in preparation for the B. Sacrament which the next day Mr. Owen administered to me and all my family in Sayes Court, preaching on 6 John 32. 33. shewing the exceeding benefits of our blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him. He had christened my son and churched my wife in our own house, as before noticed. 17 Jan. I began to set out the ovall garden at Sayes Court, which was before a rude orchard and all the rest one intire field of 100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither holly hedge joyning to the bank of the mount walk. This was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens, walks, groves, enclosures, and plantations there. 21. I went to London and there seal'd some of the writings of my pur- chase of Sayes Court. 30 Jan. At our own parish Church a stranger preach'd. There was now and then an honest orthodox man got into the pulpit, and tho' the present incumbent was somewhat of the Independent, yet he ordinarily preach'd sound doctrine, and was a peaceable man, which was an ex- traordinary felicity in this age. I Feb. Old Alex. Rosse (author of * Virgilius Evangelizans,' and many other little bookes) presented me with his book against Mr. Hobbs's ' Leviathan.' 19. I planted the Orchard at Sayes Court, new moone, wind W. 22. Was perfected the sealing, livery and seizin of my purchase of Sayes Court. My brother Geo. Glanvill, Mr. Scudamor, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanvill (son to Serjeant Glanvill, sometime Speaker of the House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and severall of my friends dinmg with me. I had bargain'd for ^3200, but I paid i'h'^oo. 25 Mar. Came to see me that rare graver in taiUe douce Monsieur Richett ; sent by Card. Mazarine to make a collection of pictures. II April. I went to take the aire in Hide Park, where ev^^y/^o^^" was made to pay a shilling, and horse (^d.^ by the sordid fellow who had pur^has'd it of the State as they were cal'd. 226 [CHARLTON. REV. MR. HICHAM. BIRTH OF MY SONN JOHN. 17 May. My servant Hoare, who wrote those exquisite several hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexie, caus'd, as I suppose, by tampering with ^ (mercury) about an experiment in gold. 29. I went to London to lake my last leave of my honest friend Mr. Barton now dying : it was a gr«;ate losse to me and to my affaires. On the sixth of June I attended his funeral. 8 June. Came my brother George, Capt. Evelyn the greate traveller, Mr. Muschamp, my Co. Tho. Keightly, and a virtuoso fantastical Sy- mons ' who had the talent of embossing so to the life. 9 June. I went to visite my worthy neighbour Sir Hen. Newton [at Charlton], and consider the prospect-, which is doubtless for city, river, ships, meadows, hill, woods, and all other amenities, one of the most noble in the world ; so as had the house running water, it were a princely seate. Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law came to visite me, and he presented me with a seleniscope. 19. This day I paid all my debts to a farthing, 6 blessed day ! 21. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very rich Gent, living in Northamptonshire, visited me. 23. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my Collections. 27. Monsieur Roupel sent me a small phial of his aiirtim potabile^ with a letter shewing the way of administering it, and the stupendous cures it had don at Paris ; but ere it came to me, by what accident I know not, it was all run out. 17 Aug. I went to visite Mr. Hyldiard at his house at Horsley (for- merly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's), where met me Mr. Oughtred the famous mathematician ; he shew'd me a box or golden case of divers rich and aromatic balsams, which a chymist a scholar of his had sent him out of Germany. 21. I heard that good old man Mr. Higham the parson of the parish of Wotton where I was born, & who had baptized me, preach after his very plaine way on Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, the ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. 22. We all went to Guildford to rejoice at the famous Inn, the Red Lion, and to see the Hospital, and the monument of Arch-Bish. Abbot the founder, who lies buried in the chapell of his endowment. 28 Sept. At Greenwich preach'd that holy martyr Dr. Hewer on Psalm 90 v. 11. magnifying the grace of God to penitents, and threatning the extinction of his Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of the age we live in. n Oct. My sonn John Stansfield was borne, being my second child, and christned by the name of my mother's father, that name now quite extinct, being of Cheshire. Christen'd by Mr. Owen in my Library at Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I always making ' Abraham Simons, a >tr»nge character, but most excellent modeller after life, and engraver of medals. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. jj; use of him on these occasions, because the Parish Minister durst not have officiated according to the forme and usage of the Church of England, to which I always adhered. 25. Mr. Owen preach'd in my Library at Sayes Court on 18 Luke, 7. 8. an excellent discourse on the unjust judge, shewing why Almighty God would sometimes be compared by such similitudes. He afterwards administered to us all the Holy Sacrament. 28. Went to London to visit my Lady Gerrard, where I saw that cursed woman cali'd the Lady Norton, of whom it was reported that she spit in our King's face as he went to the scaffold. Indeede her talke and discourse was like an impudent woman. 21 Nov. I went to London to speak with Sir John Evelyn my kins- man about the purchase of an estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westram, which afterwards Sir J. himself bought for his son-in-law Leech. 4 Dec. Going this day to our Church I was surpriz'd to see a tradesman, a mechanic, step up ; I was resolv'd yet to stay and see what he would make of it. His text was from 2 Sam. ch. 23. v. 20. * And Benaiah went downe also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the time of snow ; ' the purport was, that no danger was to be thought difficult when God cali'd for shedding of blood, inferring that now the Saints were cali'd to destroy temporal governments ; with such feculent stuff; so dangerous a crisis were things growne to. 25. Christmas Day. No Churches or publiq assembly. I was faine to passe the devotions of that blessed day with my family at home. 1654. 20 Jan. Came to see me my old acquaintance and the most incomparable player on the Irish harp, Mr. Clarke, after his travells. He was an excellent musitian, a discreete gentleman, borne in Devon- shire (as I remember). Such musiq before or since did I never heare, that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary difficulty ; but in • my judgment it is far -superior to the Lute itsclfe, or whatever speakes with strings. 25. Died my son J. Stansfield, of convulsion fits ; buried at Dept- ford on the East corner of the Church, and near his mother's great-grandfather, &c. 8 Feb. Ash Wednesday. In contradiction to all costome and de- cency, the Usurper Cromwell feasted at the Lord Maior's, riding in triumph thro' the Citty. 14. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth and found his tongue rough like a cat's ; a sheepe also with 6 leggs, which made use of 5 of them to walke ; a goose that had 4 leggs, 2 crops, and as many vents. . 29 March. That excellent man Mr. Owen preached m my Library on Matt. 28. V. 6. a Resurrection Sermon, and after it we all received the Holy Communion. 6 April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelme Digbie, Mr. Denham, and other friends, to see me. 228 LADY BROOKE GARDEN. WINDSOR. START FOR WILTSHIRE. 15. I went to London to heare the famous Doctor Jeremy Taylor (since Bishop of Downe and Connor) at St. Gregg: on 6 Matt. 48. concerning evangcHcal perfection. 5 May. I bound my laquay Tho. Headly apprentice to a carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new cloathing ; he thrived very well, and became rich. 8. I went to Hackney to see my Lady Brook's garden, which was one of the neatest and most celebrated in England, the house well fur- nish'd, but a despicable building. Returning, visited one Mr. Tombs's garden ; it has large and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, planted in strawberry borders, staked at 10 foote distances ; the ban- quetting-house of cedar, where the couch and seates were carv'd a r an- tique; some good pictures in the house, especialy one of Vandyke's, being a Mati hi his shirt; also some of Stenwyck. I also call'd at Mr. Ducie's who has indcede a rare collection of the best masters, and one of the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Tho. Fowler's aviarie, which is a poore businesse. 10. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, ^ now the onely place of refreshment about the towne for persons of the best quality to be exceedingly cheated at ; Cromwell and his partisans hav- ing shut up and seiz'd on Spring Garden, which till now had ben the usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season. 11. I now observed how the women began to paint themselves, for- merly a most ignominious thing and us'd only by prostitutes. 14. There being no such thing as Church Anniversaries in the Paro- chial Assemblies, I was forced to provide at home for Whitsonday. 15. Came Sir Robt. Stapleton,the translator of Juvenal, to visiteme. 8 June. My wife and I set out in a coach and 4 horses, in our way to visite relations of hers in Wiltshire and other parts, where we re- solved to spend some moneths. We din'd at Windsor, and saw the Castle and the Chapell of St. George, where they have laied our bless- ed Martyr King Charles in the vault Just before the altar. The Church and workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itselfe large in circumference, but the roomes melancholy and of antient mag- nificence. The kcepe, or mount, hath besides its incomparable pros- pect a very profound well ; and the terrace towards Eaton, with the park, meandering Thames, and sweete meadows, yield one of the most delightful prospects. That night we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord Craven's house at Causam [Caversham] now in ruines, his goodly woods felling by the PN.ebells. 1 Buckingham House (now the Queen's Palace) was built on the site of these gardens : see Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776; Malcolm's Londinium Redivium, IV. 263 ; but the latter after- wards, p. 327, says that the piece of ground called the Mulberry Garden was granted by Charles II. in 1673 to Henry Earl of Arlington ; in that case it would be what is now called Arlington S^r--*.. »»"U.-> iit.^jfctended up to the Queen's Palace. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 229 9. Din*d at Marlborough, which having ben lately fir'J was now new bnilt. At one end of this towne we saw my Lord Seymour's house, ' but nothing observable save the Mount, to which we ascended by- windings for neere halfea mile. It seems to have ben cast up by hand. We pass'd by Coll. Popham's, a noble seate, park and river. Thence to Newberry, a considerable towne, and Donnington Castle famous for its battle, siege, and castle : that this last had been the possession of old Geofrie Chaucer. Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphry Forster's, built d la moderne. Also that exceedingly beautifull seate of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of an hill, flank'd with wood, and reguarding the river ; and so at night to Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq. uncle to my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of the weeke we did nothing but feast and make good cheere to welcome my wife. 27. We all went to see Bathe, where I bathed in the Crosse Bathe. Amongst the rest of the idle diversions of the towne, one musitian was famous for acting a changeling, which indeede he personated strangely. The faciate of this Cathedrall is remarkable for its historical carving. The King's Bath is esteem'd the fairest in Europe. The towne is in- tircly built of stone, but the streetes narrow, uneven, and unpleasant. Here we trifled and bathed, and intervisited with the company who frequent the place for health, &c. till the 30th, and then went to Bristoll, a Citty emulating London, not for its large extent but manner of build- ing, shops, bridge, traffiq, exchange, market-place, &c. The Governor shew'd us the Castle, of no greate concernment. The Citty wholly mercantile, as standing neere the famous Severne, commodiously for Ireland and the Western world. Here I first saw the manner of re- fining suggar and casting it into loaves, where we had a collation of eggs fried in the suggar furnace' together with excellent Spanish wine: but what was most stupendious to me was the rock of St. Vincent, a little distance from the towne, the precipice whereoft" is equal to any thing of that nature I have seene in the most confragose cataracts of the Alpes, the river gliding betweene them at an extraordinary depth. Here we went searching for diamonds, and to the Hot Wells at its foote. There is also on the side of this horrid Alp a very romantic seate : and so we return'd to Bathe in the evening, and on first July to Cadenham. 4 July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. Pretyman, I waited back on her to London, passing by Hungerford, a towne famous for its troutes, and the next day ariv'd at Deptford, which was sixty miles, m the extremity of heate. ' Now the famous inn there. . , ..u * i ■ • A kind of entertainment hke that we now have of eating beef-steakt drest on the stoker s shovel and drinking porter at the famous brcwhouses in London. 230 VISIT OXFORD AND SEE THE ACTS, LIBRARY, AND MSS. 6. I went early to London, and the next day met my wife and com- pany at Oxford, the eve of the Act. 8. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the scholes, and after dinner the Proctor opened the Act at St. Marie's (according to custome) and the Prevaricators their drolery. Then the Doctors disputed. We supp'd at Wadham College. 9. Dr. French preach'd at St. Marie's on 12 Matt. 42. advising the Students to search after true wisdome, not to be had in the bookes of Philosophers, but in the Scriptures alone. In the afternoone the famous Independent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now Crom- well's Vice-Chancelor. We din'd with Dr. Ward, Mathematical Pro- fessor (since Bp. of Sarum), and at night supp'd in Balliol Coll. Hall, where I had once ben Student and Fellow Commoner, and where they made me extraordinarily welcome. 10. On Monday I went againe to the Scholes to heare the severall Faculties, and in the afternoone tarried out the whole Act in St. Marie's, the long speeches of the Proctors, the Vice-Chancellor, the severall Professors, creation of Doctors by the cap, ring, kisse, &c. those antient ceremonies and institution being as yet not wholyabolish'd. Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his Act incom- parably well, concluded it with an excellent oration, abating his Pres- byterian animosities, which he witheld not even against that learned and pious divine Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech of the Vice-Chancellor, there being but 4 in Theologie, 3 in Medicine, which was thought a considerable matter, the times consider'd. I din'd at one Monsieur Fiat's, a Student at Exeter College, and supp'd at a mag- nificent entertainment in Wadham Hall, invited by my deare and excel- lent friend Dr. Wilkins, then Warden (afterwards the Bishop of Chester.) 11. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, tho' invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had music, voices, and theorbos, perform'd by some ingenious scholars. After dinner 1 visited that miracle of a youth Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew of the Bishop of Ely. Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln) Bibliothecarius of the Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He shew'd us the rarities of that most famous place, manuscripts, medails, and other curiosities. Amongst the MSS. an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to be baptized by Philip is called the Gelding: 'and Philip and the Gelding went down into the water,' &c. The original Acts of the Council of Basil 900 yeares since, with the bulla or leaden affix, which has a silken cord passing thro' every parchment ; a MS. of Venerable Bcde of 800 yeares antiquity; the old Ritual sec2i7idinn usum Sarufn, exceeding voluminous ; then amongst the nicer curiosities, the Proverbs of Solomon written in French by a lady,^ every chapter of a ' Mrs. Esther Inglish, married to Bartholomew Kello, Rector of Willinghall Spain in Essex. See an account of her curious penmanship in Massey's Origin and Progress of Letters. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. severall character or hand the most exquisite imaginable ; an hierogly- phical table or carta folded up like a map, I suppose it painted on asses hide, extremely rare ; but what is most illustrious, there were no less than looo MSS. in 19 languages, especialy Oriental, furnishing that new part of the Library built by Abp. Lawd from a designe of Sir Kenelme Digby and the Earle of Pembrook. In the closet of the Tower they shew some Indian weapons, urnes, lamps, &c. but the rarest is the whole Alcoran written on one large sheet of calico, which is made up in a priest's vesture or cope, after the Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written as no printed letter comes neere it ; also a roll of magical charms, divers talismans, and some medails. Then I led my wife into the Convocation House, finely wainscoted ; the Divinity Scheie and Gotic carv'd roofe ; the Physick or Anatomic Schole, adorn'd with some rarities of natural things, but nothing extraordinary save the skin of a jaccall, a rarely colour'd jacatoo or prodigious large parrot, 2 humming birds not much bigger than our humble bee, which I had not scene before, that I remember. 12. We went to St. John's, saw the Library and the 2 skeletons which are finely cleans'd and put together ; observable is here also the store of mathematical instruments, cheifely given by the late Abp. Lawd, who built here an handsome quadrangle. Thence we went to New College, where the Chapel was in its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulositie of the times. Thence to Christ's Church, in whose library was shew'd us an Office of Hen. 8, the writing miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal if not surpassing any curiosity I had scene of that kind ; it was given by their founder. Cardinal Wolsey. The glasse windows of the Cathcdrall (famous in my time), I found much abus'd. The ample Hall and columne that spreads its capital to sustaine the roofe as one goes up the stayres is a very remarkable structure. Next we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw the Lihni l y and Chapell, which was likewise in pontifical order, the altar onely I think turn'd table-wise, and there was still the double organ, which abomina- tions (as now esteem'd) were almost universaly demolish'd ; Mr. Gibbon, that famous musitian, giving us a taste of his skill and talents on that instrument. Hence we went to the Physick Garden, where the sensitive plant was shew'd us for a greate wonder. There grew canes, olive-trees, rhubarb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides very good fruit, which when the ladys had tasted, we returned in our coach to our lodgings. . 13. We all din'd at that most obliging and universally-curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the first who shew'd me the transparent apiaries, which he had built like castles and palaces, and so order'd them one upon another as to take the hony without destroy- 232 BEEHIVE. CADENHAM. BROaD-HINTON ; DRUNK SERVANTS. ing the bees. These were adorn 'd with a variety of dials, little statues, vanes, &c. and he was so aboundantly civil, as finding me pleas'd with them, to present me with one of the hives which he had empty, and which I afterwards had in my garden at Sayes Court, where it continu'd many years, and which his Majestie came on purpose to see and con- template with much satisfaction. He had also contriv'd an hollow statue which gave a voice and utter'd words, by a long conceaFd pipe that went to its mouth whilst one speaks through it at a good dis- tance. He had above in his lodgings and gallery variety of shadows, dyals, perspectives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magi- cal curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous magnet, conic and other sections, a ballance on a demi-circle, most of them of his owne and that prodigious young scholar Mr. Chr.Wren, who presented me with a piece of white marble, which he had stain'd with a lively red very deepe, as beautiful as if it had ben natural. Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, dining at Fa- ringdon, a towne which had ben newly fir'd during the warrs ; and passing neere the seate of Sir Wal. Pie, we came to Cadenham. i6. We went to another uncle and relative of my wife's, Sir John Glanvill, a famous lawyer, formerly Speaker of the House of Commons ; his seate is at Broad-Hinton, where he now hv'd, but in the Gate- house, his very faire dwelling house having ben burnt by his owne hands to prevent the rebells making a garrison of it. Here my cousin Will. Glanvill, his eldest sonn, shevv'd me such a lock for a doore, that for its filing and rare contrivances was a master-piece, yet made by a country black-smith. Rut we have scene watches made by another with as much curiositie as the best of that profession can brag of ; and not many yeares after, there was nothing more frequent than all sorts of Iron-work more exquisitely wrought and polish'd than in any part of Europ, so as a dore-lock of a tolerable price was esteem'd a curiositie even among forraine princes. Went back to Cadenham, and on the 19th to Sir Ed. Baynton's at Spie Park, a place capable of being made a noble seate ; but the hu- mourous old Knight has built a long single house of 2 low stories on the precipice of an incomparable prospect, and landing on a bowling greene in the park. The house is like a long barne, and has not a window on the prospect side. After dinner they went to bowles, and in the meanetime our coach-men were made so exceedingly drunk, that in returning home we escap'd greate dangers. This it seems was by order of the Knight, that all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the custome is a barbarous one, and much unbecoming a Knight, still lesse a Christian. 20. We proceeded to Salisb» ry ; the Cathedral I take to be the com- ^ This reminds us of the speaking figii so long exhibited in Spring Gardens, and in Lei- cester Fields, scunc years ago. TKF DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. pleatest piece of Gotic worke in Europe, taken in all its uniformitie. The pillars, reputed to be cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of the quarry ; most observable are those in the Chapter-house. There are some remarkable monuments, particularly the antient Bishops founders of the Church, Knights Templars, the Marques of Hartford's, the cloysters of the palace and garden, and the grcate mural dial. In the afternoone we went to Wilton, a fine house of the Earl of Pem- broke, in which the most observable are the dining-roome in the modern built part towards the garden, richly gilded and painted with story by De Creete ; also some other apartments, as that of hunting landskips by Pierce ; some magnificent chimny-pieces after the best French manner ; a paire of artificial winding-stayres of stone, and divers rare pictures. The garden, heretofore esteem'd the noblest in England, is a large handsom plaine, with a grotto and water-works, which might be made much more pleasant were the river that passes through cleans'd and rais'd, for all is effected by a meere force. It has a flower garden not inelegant. But after all, that which renders the seate delightful is its being so neere the downes and noble plaines about the country contiguous to it. The stables are well order'd and yeild a gracefull front, by reason of the walkes of lime-trees, with the court and fountaine of the stables adorn'd with the Caesar's heads. We returned this evening by the plaine, and 14 mile race, where out of my lord's hare-warren we were entertained with a long course of an hare for neere 2 miles in sight. Neere this is a pergola or stand, built to view the sports : and so we came to Salisbury, and viewed the most considerable parts of the Citty. The merket place with most of the streetes are water'd by a quick current and pure streame running thro' the middle of them, but are negligently kept, when with small charge they might be purg'd and render'd infinitely agreeable, and made one of the sweetest townes, but now the common buildings are despicable aud the streetes are dihy. 22 July. We departed and din'd at a ferme of my uncle Hunger- ford's, call'd Darneford Magna, situate in a vally under the plaine, most sweetly water'd, abounding in trouts catch "d by speare in the night when they come attracted by a light set in the sterne of a boate. After dinner, continuing our returne, we passed over the goodly plaine, or rather sea of carpet, which 1 think for evenness, extent, ver- dure, and innumerable flocks, to be one of the most dehghtful prospects in nature, and reminded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we reade of in Romances. Now we were arived at Stone-henge, indeede a stupendious monu^ ment, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how so many and huge pillars of stone should have ben brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops of them, in a circular area as rudely represent- ing a cloyster or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderfull. The 234 STONEHENGE ; LEICESTERSHIRE ; GLOUCESTER. Stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a hammer could not breake a fragment, which hardnesse I impute to their so long ex- posure. To number them exactly is very difficult, they lie in such variety of postures and confusion, tho' they seem'd not to exceed loo ; we counted onely 95. As to their being brought thither, there being no navigable river neere, is by some admir'd ; but for the stone there seemes to be the same kind about 20 miles distant, some of which appeare above ground. About the same hills are divers mounts rais'd, conceiv'd to be ancient intrenchments, or places of burial after bloudy fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large towne, and came late to Cadenham. 27. I went to the hunting of a sorel deere, and had excellent chase for 4 or 5 houres, but the venison little worth. 29 July. I went to Langford to see my cousin Stephens. I also saw Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John Pretyman, grendfather to my wife, and sold by her uncle ; both the seate and house very honourable and well built, much after the modern fashion. 31. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had ben long and nobly entertain'd, we went a compass into Leicestershire, where dwelt another relation of my wife's ; for I indeede made these excursions to shew her the most considerable parts of her native country, who from her child- hood had liv'd altogether in France, as well as for my owne curiosity and information. About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have a prospect from woody hills into a most goodly vale and country. Gloucester is a handsome Citty, considerable for the Church & monuments. The Minster is indeede a noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being thro' a passage of 25 yards, in a many-angled cloister, and was, I suppose, either to shew the skill of the architect, or some invention of a cunning priest, who standing unseene in a recesse in the middle of the Chappell, might heare whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the quire, in which lies buried K. Stephen under a monument of Irish oake, not ill carved considering the age. The new Librarie is a noble tho' a private designe. I was likewise pleased with the Severne gliding so sweetely by it. The Duke's house, the Castle workes, are now almost quite dismantl'd ; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the Towne, considering how fatal the siege had ben a few yeares before to our good King. I August. We sat out towards Worcester by a way thick planted with cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a vally thro' a steepe declivity towards the foote of the greate Mauvern Hills ; they are said to licale many infirmities, as king's evil, leaprosie. sore eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the Trench dividing England from South Wales, we had the prospect of all Here- fordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 23S Shropshire, Warwick, Derby shires, and many more. We could dis- cern Tewxbery, King's-rode towards Bristol, &c. so as I esteeme it one of the goodliest vista's in England. 2. This evening we ariv'd at Worcester, the Judges of Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the Towne the next day, we found the Cathedral much ruin'd by the late warrs. otherwise a noble structure. The Towne is neately pav'd and very cleane, the goodly river Severne running by it, and standing in a most tertile country. 3. We pass'd next thro' Warwick, and saw the Castle, the dwelling- house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble. It is built on an eminent rock which gives prospect into a most goodly greene, a woody and plentifully watred country ; the river running so delightfully under it, that it may passe for one of the most surprising seates one should meete with. The gardens are pretily disposed, but might be much improv'd. Here they shew us Sir Guy's greate two-handed sword, staff, horse-armes, pott, and other reliques of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a faire old Towne, and hath one Church full of antient monuments. Having viewed these, I went to visite my worthy friend Sir H. Puckering at the Abby, and tho' a melancholy old seate, yet in a rich soile. Hence to Sir Guy's Grott, where they say he did his penances and dyed. 'Tis a squalid den made in the rock, crown'd yet with venerable oakes and looking on a goodly streame, so as, were it improv'd as it might be, 'twere capable of being made a most romantiq and pleasant place. Neere this we were shew'd his chapell and gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise divers other caves cut, & some very capacious. The next place to Coventry. The Crosse is remarkable for Gotic worke and rich gilding, comparable to any I had ever scene except that of Cheapeside in London, now demo- lish'd. This Citty has many handsome churches, a beautifuU wall, a faire free-schole and librarie to it ; the streetes full of greate shops, cleane and well pav'd. At going forth the Gate they shew us the bone or rib of a wild boare said to have beene kill'd by Sir Guy, but which I take to be the chine of a whale. 4. Hence riding thro' a considerable part of Leicestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came late in the evening to Horninghold, a seate of my wife's unkle [not nam'dj. 7. Went to Uppingham, the Shire-towne of Rutland, pretty and weU builte of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where most of the rural parishes are but of mud, and the people hving as wretchedly as in the most impoverish'd parts of France, which they much resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especialy Lei- cestershire) much in common ; the gentry free drinkers. 9 To the old and ragged Citty of Leicester, large and pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney flues like so ni.iny smiths forges however, famous for the tombe of the Tyrant Richard the 236 LEICESTER; OAKHAM; NEWARK-ON-TRENT ; SHERWOOD FOREST, Third, which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattel drink. Also here in one of the Churches Hes buried the magnificent Cardinal Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poore Hospital, neere which a wretch has made him an house out of the mines of a stately church. Saw the ruines of an old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertain'd at a very fine collation of fruits, such as I did not expect to meet with so far North, especialy very good melons. We return'd to my unkle's. 14. I tooke a journey into the Northern parts^ riding thro' Oakham, a pretty towne in Rutlandshire, famous for the tenure of the Barons (Ferrars), who hold it by taking off a shoe from every nobleman's horse that passes with his Lord thro' the streete, unlesse redeem'd with a certain piece of money. In token of this are severall gilded shoes nail'd up on the Castle-gate, which seemes to have ben large and faire. Hence we went by Brook, a very sweete seate and parke of the old Lady Camdens. Next by Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham,^ and worthily reckoned among the noblest seates in England, situate on the brow of an hill, built a la moderne neere a park wall'd in, and a fine wood at the descent. Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seate belonging to Mr. Heath, sonn to the late Lord Cheif Justice of that name. Here, after dinner, parting with the company that conducted us that far, I pass'd that evening by Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a long ridge of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for its strenuous resistance in the late civil warr. Went by Newark on Trent, a brave towne and garison. Next by Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, an handsom seate ; then by Home, a noble place belonging to the Marques of Dorchester, and pass'd the famous river Trent, which divides the South from the North of England, and so lay that night at Nottingham. This whole Towne and County seemes to be but one entire rock as it were, an exceeding pleasant shire, full of gentry. Here I observ'd divers to live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours in France. The Church is well built on an eminence ; there is a faire house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepoints ; an ample merket- place ; large streetes full of crosses ; the reliques of an ancient castle hoUow'd, beneath which are many caverns, especialy that of the Scots King, and his work whilst there. This place is remarkable for being the place where his Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning of our late unhappy differences. The prospects from this citty towards the river and meadows are most delightfull. 15. We pass'd next thro' Sherewood Forest, accounted the most ' Called Burleigh on the Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's near Stamford. I'he Duke of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, now Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, to whom it belongs. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 337 extensive in England. Then Paplewick, an incomparable vista with the pretty castle neere it. Thence we saw Newstead Abby belonging to the Lord Biron, situated much like Fontaine-bleau in France, capable of being made a noble seate. accommodated as it is with brave woods and streames ; it has yet remaining the front of a glorious Abby Church. Next by Mansfield Towne ; then Wellbeck, the house of the Marques of Newcastle, seated in a botome in a park, and environed with woods, a noble yet melancholy seate. The palace is a handsom and stately building. Next to Worksop Abby, almost dcmolish'd ; the Church has a double flat towre intire, and a pretty gate. The Manner belongs to the Earle of Arundel, and has to it a faire house at the foote of an hill in a park that afords a delicate prospect. Tickel, a Towne and Castle, has a very noble aspect. All these in Nottinghamshire. 16. We ariv'd at Doncaster, where we lay this night ; it is a large faire towne, famous for greate wax-lights and good stockings. 17. Pass'd thro' Pontefract ; the Castle, famous for many sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death of that unhappy King murdered in it (Richard II.) was now demolishing by the Rebells ; it stands on a mount and makes a goodly shew at a distance. The Queene has an house here, and there are many faire seats neere it, especialy Mr. Pierrepoint's, built at the focte of an hill out of the Castle ruines. We all alighted in the highway to drink at a cristal spring which they call Robin Hood's Well ; neere it is a stone chaire, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chain'd to the seate. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of wdiich we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seate), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's faire houses. This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-water'd and wooded country, abound- ing with pasture and plenty of provisions. 17 August. To York, the second Citty of England, fairely wall'd, of a circular forme, water'd by the brave river Ouse, bearing vessels of considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone bridge emulating that of London, and built on, the middle arch is larger than any I have scene in England, with a wharfe of hewn stone, which makes the river appeare very neate. But most remarkable and worthy seemg is St. Peter's Cathedrall, which of all the greate churches in England had ben best preserv'd from the furie of the sacrilegious,' by composition with the Rebells when they tooke the Citty, during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a most intire magnificent piece of Gotic architecture. The skreene before the quire is of stone carv'd with flowers, running work and statues of the old Kings. Many of the monuments are very ancient. Here, as a greate rarity in these dayes and at this time, they shew'd me a Bible and Common Prayer- Book cover'd with crimson velvet, and richly emboss'd with silver gilt ; also a service for the altar of guilt wrought plate, flagons, basm, euer, cnali- 1 By Sir Thomas Fairfax. 238 YORK ; BEVERLY ; HULL ; LINCOLN AND ITS CATHEDRAL. ces, patins, &c. with a gorgeous covering for the altar and pulpit, care- fully preserved in the Vestrie, in the hollow wall whereof rises a plentifull spring of excellent water. I got up to the Towre, whence we had a prospect towards Duresme, and could see Rippon, part of Lan- cashire, the famous and fatal Marston Moore, the Spaws of Knares- brough, and all the environs of that admirable country, Sir Ingoldsby has here a large house, gardens, and tennis court ; also the King's house and Church neere the Castle, which was modernly forti- fied with a palizade and bastions. The streetes are narrow and ill pav'd, the shops like London. 1 8 Aug. We went to Beverly, a large towne with 2 stately churches, St. John's and St. Marie's, not much inferior to the best of our Cathe- drals. Here a very old woman shew'd us the monuments, and being above 100 yeares old, spake the language of Queen Marie's daies, in whose time she was born ; she was widow of a Sexton who had belong'd to the church an hundred yeares. Hence we pass'd thro' a fenny but rich country to Hull, situate like Calais, modernly and strongly fortified with three block-houses of brick and earth. It has a good mercat-place and harbour for ships. Famous also (or rather infamous) is this towne for Hotham's refusing enterance to his Majesty. The Water-house is worth seeing. And here ends the South of Yorkshire. 19. We passe the Humber, an arme of the sea of about 2 leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we cross'd it in a good barg to Barton, the first towne in that part of Lincolnshire. All marsh ground till we came to Brigg, famous for the plantations of licorice, and then had brave pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury Plaine. Lincoln is an old confus'd towne, very long, uneven, steepe, and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especialy churches and abbies. The minster almost comparable to that of York itselfe, abounding with marble pillars and having a faire front. Herein was interr'd O. Elianor, the loyal and loving wife who suck'd the poison out of her husband's wound ; the Abbot founder, with rare carving in the stone ; the greate Bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all over the country. The souldiers had lately knocked off most of the brasses from the grave- stones, so as few inscriptions were left ; they told us that these men went in with axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had rent and tome off some barge-loads of mettal, not sparing even the monuments of the dead, so hellish an avarice possessed them ; besides which th*^y exceedingly ruin'd the Citty. Here I saw a tall woman six foote two inches high, comely, middle ag'd and well proportion'd, who kept a very neate and cleane ale-house, and got most by people's coming to see her on account of her height. 20. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a large heath THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 239 open like Salisbury Plaine, to Grantham, a pretty towne, so well situ- ated on the side of a bottome, which is large and at distance inviron'd with ascending grounds, that for pleasure I consider i: comparable to most inland places of En^ land : famous is the Steeple for the exceed- ing height of the shaft, which is of stone. About 18 miles we passe by a noble seate, and see Boston at a dis- tance. Here we came to a parish of which the parson has Tithe Ale. Thence thro' Rutland we brought night to Horninghold, from whence I sat out on this excursion. 22. I went a setting and hawking, where we had tolerable sport. 25. I went to see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord Hatton's in Northamptonshire, built a la modenie j the garden and stables agree- able, but the avenue was ungraceful and the seate naked : returned that evening. 27. Mr. Arlington preach'd an excellent discourse from Romans 6. 19. This was he who publish'd those bold sermons of the members warring against the mind, or the Jewes crucifying Christ, applied to the wicked regicides, for which he was ruin'd. We had no sermon in the afternoone. 30. Taking leave of my friends who had now feasted me more than a moneth, I, with my wife, &c. set our faces towards home, and got this evening to PeterlDorovv, passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of St. John's (one deepe in the bloud of our good King), built out of the ruines of the Bishops Palace and Cloyster. The Church is exceeding faire, full of monuments of greate antiquity. Here lies Quecne Catha- rine, the unhappy wife of Hen. VIII. and the no lesse unfortunate Mary Q. of Scots. On the steeple we view'd the Fens of Lincolnshire, now much inclos'd and drained with infinite expence, and by many sluices, cutts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like inventions, at »vhich the Citty and country about it, consisting of a poore and very lazy sort of people, were much displeas'd. Peterborow is an handsome towne, and hath in it another well- built Church. 31. Thro' part of Huntingdon shire we passe that towne, faire and ancient, a river running by it. The country about it so abounds in wheate, that when any King of England passes thro' it they have a costom to meet him with an hundred plows. This evening to Cambridge ; and went first to see St. John's Colledge, well built of brick, and Librarie, which I think is the fairest of that University. One Mr. Benlowes ' has given it all the ornaments of Pietra Commessa^ whereof a table and one piece of perspective is very 1 Edward Benlowes, Esq. a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in Essex and of a good estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality, and buying cunosit.es. as W -d says. Wood's Fasti, 876. • Marble inlaid of various colours, representing flowers, birds, &c. 240 CAMBRIDGE ; COLLEGES, LIBRARIES, AND SCHOOLS SEEN. fine ; other trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old song book or service, and some faire manuscripts. There hangs in the hiDrary the picture of John Williams Abp. of York sometime Lord Keeper, my kinsman and their greate benefactor. Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quadrangle of any University in Europ, but in truth is far inferior to that of Christ Church in Oxford : the hall is ample and of stone, the fountaine in the quad- rangle is gracefull, the Chapell and Library faire. There they shew'd us the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but the passage and emblem which they would apply to our late King, is manifestly re- lating to the Swedish ; in truth it seemes to be a meere fantastic rhap- sody, however the title may bespeake strange revelations. There is an Office in manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities given by the Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII. and the before mentioned Abp. WilHams when Bishop of Lincoln. The Library is pretty well stor'd. The Greeke Professor had me into another large quadrangle cloister'd and well built, and gave us a handsome collation in his own chamber. Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College, where I found the Chapel altogether answer'd expectation, especialy the roofe all of stone, which for the flatness of its laying and carving, may I conceive vie with any in Christendome. The contignation of the roof (which I went upon) weight and artificial joyneing of the stones is admirable. The lights are also very faire. In one ile lies the famous Dr. Collins so celebrated for his fluency in the Latin tongue. From this roofe we could descry Ely, and the incanipment of Sturbridge faire now beginning to set up their tents and boothes ; also Royston, Newmarket, &c. houses belong- ing to the King. The Library is too narrow. Clare Hall is of a new and noble designe, but not finish'd. Peter House formerly under the government of my worthy friend Dr. Jo. Cosin Deane of Peterborow ; ^ a pretty neate College having a deli- cate Chapell. Next to Sidney, a fine College. Catharine Hall, tho' a meane structure, is yet famous for the learned Bp. Andrews, once Master. Emanuel Colledge, that zealous house, where to the hall they have a parler for the Fellows. The Chapell is re- form'd, ad or(^me, huWt N. and S. meanely built, as is the Librarie. Jesus College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy situation. Next to Christ College, a noble erection, especialy the modern part, built without the quadrangle towards the gardens, of exact architecture. The Schooles are very despicable, and Public Librarie but meane, tho' somewhat improv'd by the wainscotting and books lately added by the Bp. Bancroft's Library and MSS. They shew'd us little of antiquity, onely K. James's Works, being his owne gift and kept very reverently. The Mercat-place is very ample, and remarkable tor old Hobson the i Ejected from bus preferments in 1640 or 1641. Afterwards Bishop of Durham. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 24 1 pleasant Carrier's beneficence of a fountaine. But the whole towne is situate in a low dirty unpleasant place, the strcetes ill paved, the aire thicke and infected by the Fennes, nor are its churches (ot which St. Marie's is the best) any thing considerable in compare with those of Oxford.' From Cambridge we went to Audley End, and spent some time in seeing that goodly palace built by Howard Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a mixt fabric 'twixt antiq and modern, but observable for its being compleately finish'd, and without comparison is one of the stateliest palaces of the kingdom. It consists of two courts, the first very large, wing'd with cloisters. The front hath a double entrance ; the hall is faire, but somewhat too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very large, as are the cellars arch'd with stone, very neate and well disposed ; these offices are joyn'd by a wing out of the way very handsomely. The gallery is the most chcerfuU, and I thinkc one of the best in England ; a faire dining-roome, and the rest oi the lodgings answerable, with a pretty chapell. The gardens are not in order, tho' well inclos'd. It has also a bowling-ally, a noble well wall'd, wooded, and water'd park, full of fine collines and ponds : the river glides before tho palace, to which is an avenue of lime trees, but all this is much diminish'd by its being plac'd in an obscure bottome ; for the rest, it is a perfectly uniform structure, and shewes without like a diadem, by the decorations of the cupolas and other ornaments on the pavilions ; instead of railes and balusters, there is a bordure of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk House neere Charing Crosse, built by the same Lord Treasurer. This house stands in the parish of Saftron Walden, famous for the aboundance of saffron there cultivated, and esteem'd the best oi any forraine country. 3 Oct. Having din'd here we pass'd thro' Bishop's Stortford, a pretty water'd towne, and so by London late home to Sayes Court, after a journey of 700 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refresh- ment after my turmoil and building, &c. 10. To my brother at Wotton, who had ben sick. 14. I went to visit my noble friend Mr. Hyldiard, whenr 9 met that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, and Dr. Stokes, one of his Majesty's Chaplains. 15. To Betch worth Castle to Sir Ambrose Browne, and other gentle- men of my sweete and native country. 24. The good old parson Higham preach'd at Wotton Church : a plaine preacher, but innocent and honest man. 23 Oct. I went to London to visit my co. Fanshawe, and this day I saw one of the rarest collections of achates, onyxes, and intaglios, that ' had ever seene either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old » The reader must remember that nn Oxfc-d man is speaking 16 242 LONDON ; CHRISTMAS J VVOODCOT ; A RARE TABLE CLOCK. hatt-maker in Black Friers, especialy one achat vase, heretofore the greate Earle of Leicester's. 28. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to visit us ; also one Captain Cooke, esteem'd ye best singer after the Italian manner of any in England ; he entertain'd us with his voice and theorba. 31. My birth-day, being the 34th yeare of my age : blessing God for his providence I went to London to visite my brother. 3 Dec. Advent Sunday. There being no office at the church, but extemporie prayers after the Presbyterian way, for now all formes were prohibited, and most of the preachers were usurpers, I seldomewent to Church upon solemn feasts, but either went to London, where some of the orthodox sequestred Divines did privately use the Common Prayer, administer sacraments, &c. or else I procur'd one to officiate in my house ; wherefore, on the loth, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequester'd minister of Eltham, preach'd to my family in my library, and gave us the holy communion. 25. Christmas Day. No public offices in churches, but penalties on observers, so as I was constrain'd to celebrate it at home. 1655. Jan. I. Having with my Family performed the publiq offices of the day, and begged a blessing on the yeare I was now entering, I went to keepe the rest of Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn at Woodcot. 19. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being my third, but second living. Christen'd on the 26th by the name of John. 28. A stranger preached from 3 Coloss., 2, inciting our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. I understood afterwards that this man had ben both Chaplaine and Lieutennent to Admiral Pen, using both swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say ; into such times were we fallen ! Feb. 24. I was shew'd a table clock whose ballance was onely a chrystall ball sliding on parallel wyers without being at all fixed, but rolling from stage to stage till falling on a spring concealed from sight, it was throwne up to the upmost channel againe, made with an imper- ceptible declivity, ia this continual vicissitude of motion prettily enter- taining the eye every halfe minute, and the next halfe giving progress to the hand that shew'd the houre, and giving notice by a small bell, so as in 120 halfe minutes, or periods of the bullet's falling on the ejacula- torie spring, the clock part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly adorn'd) had been presented by some German Prince to our late King, and was in possession of the Usurper, valu'd at 200/. 2 Mar. Mr. Simson, the King's jeweler, shew'd me a most rich achat cup of an escalop shape and having a figure of Cleopatra at the scroll, her body, haire, mantle, and vaile of the several natural colours. It was supported by a halfe M. Antony, the colours rarely natural, and the work truly antique, but I conceiv'd they were of several] pieces ; had they ben all of one stone it were invaluable. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 243 18. Went to London on purpose to heare that excellent preachei Dr. Jeremy Taylor on 14 Matt. 17. shewing what were the conditions of obtaining eternal life : also concerning abatements for unavoidable infirmities, how cast on the accompts of the Crosse. "On the 31st I made a visit to Dr. Jer. Taylor to conferr with him about some spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly father. I beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful of, and thankful for, his heavenly assistances. 2 April. This was the first weeke that my V. Pret. [Uncle Pretyman] being parted with his family from me, I began housekeeping, till now sojourning with him in my owne house. 9. I went to see the greate ship newly built by the Usurper Oliver, carrying 96 brasse guns, and 1000 tons burthen. In the prow was Oliver on horseback, trampling 6 Nations under foote, a Scott, Irish- man, Dutchman, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily made out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel over his in- sulting head ; the word, God with us. 15. I went to London with my family to celebrate the feast of Easter. Dr. Wild preach'd at St. Gregorie's ; the Ruling Powers conniving at the use of the Liturgy &c. in this church alone. In the afternoone Mr. Pierson (since Bishop of Chester) preach'd at East Cheape, but was disturb'd by an alarme ot fire, which about this time was very fre- quent in the Cittie. 29 May. I sold Preston to Col. Morley. June 17. There was a collection lor the Persecuted Churches and Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient Albigenses. 3 July. I was shew'd a pretty Terrell a, described with all the circles, and shewing all the magnetic deviations, &c. 14. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, also Sir Edward Hales, Sir Jo. Tufton with Mr. Seamour. I Aug. I went to Dorking to see Mr. Cha. Howard's amphitheater, garden, or solitarie recess, being 15 acres inviron'd by a hill. He shew'd us divers rare plants, caves, and an laboratory. 10. I went to Alburie to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun to build and alter the gardens much. He shew'd me many rare pictures, par- ticularly the Moore on horseback; Erasmus as big as the life, by Hol- bein ; a Madona in miniature by Oliver ; but above all the Skull carvd in wood by Albert Durer, for which his father was offer'd looA ; also Albert's head by himselfe ; with divers rare achates, intalias, and ottier curiosities. , _ 1, » •« 21. I went to Rygate to visit Mrs. Carey at my Lady Peterboro s in an antient monastery well in repaire, but the parke much detac d , tne house is nobly furnish'd. The chimney-piece in the greate chamoer carv'd in wood, was of Hen. 8. and was taken from an house ot ms in Blechinglee. At Rygate was now the Archbishop ot Armagn, inc 244 ARCHBISHOP USHER. OUGHTRED. THE MATHEMATICIAN. learned James Usher, whom I wente tovisite. He receiv'd me exceed- ing kindly. In discourse with him he told me how greate the losse oi time was to study much the Eastern languages : that excepting Hebrew there was little fruite to be gather'd of exceeding labour ; that besides some mathematical bookes, the Arabic itselfe had little considerable ; that the best texte was the Hebrew Bible ; that the Septuagint was finish'd in 70 dales, but full of errors, about which he was then writing ; that St. Hierom's was to be valued next the Hebrew ; also that the 70 translated the Pentateuch onely, the rest was finish'd by others ; that the Italians at present understood but little Greeke, and Kircher was a mountebank ; that Mr. Selden's best book was his ' Titles of Honour that the Church would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likelihood bring in Poperie. In conclusion he recommended to me the study of Philologie above all human studies ; and so with his blessing I tooke my leave of this excellent person, and returned to Wotton. 27. I went to Box-hill to see those rare natural bowers, cabinets, and shady walkes in the box copses : hence we walk'd to Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seate environ'd with elme-trees and walnuts innumerable, and of which last he told us they receiv'd a considerable revenue. Here are such goodly walkes and hills shaded with yew and box as render the place extreamely agreeable, it seeming from these ever-greens to be summer all the winter. 28. Came that renown'd mathematician Mr. Oughtred to see me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, being now very aged. Amongst other discourse he told me he thought water to be the philosopher's first matter, and that he was well perswaded of the possi- bility of their elixir ; he behev'd the sunn to be a material fire, the moone a continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had strong apprehensions of some extraordinary event to happen the following yeare, from the calculation of coincidence with the diluvian period ; and added that it might possibly be to convert the J ewes by our Saviour's visible appearance, or to judge the world ; and therefore his word was Parate in occursiim ; he said original sin was not met with in the Greeke Fathers, yet he believ'd the thing ; this was from some dis- course on Dr. Taylor's late booke which I had lent him. 16. Preach'd at St. Gregories one Darnel on 4 Psalm 4. concerning the benefit of selfe examination ; more learning in so sJiort a time as an hour I have seldom heard. 17 Sept. Receiv'd 2600/. of Mr. Hurt for the manor of Warley Magna in Essex, purchased by me some time since. The taxes were so intoUerable that they eate up the rents &c. surcharged as that county had been above all others during our unnatural war. 19. Came to see me Sir Edw. Hales, Mr. Ashmole, Mr. Harlakenton, Mr. Thornhill ; and the next day I visited Sir Hen. Newton at THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 245 Charleton, where I met the Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, daughter to the Lord Capel. * On Sunday afternoone I frequently stay'd at home to catechise and instruct my familie, those exercises universally ceasing in the parish churches, so as people had no principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common points of Christianity ; all devotion being now plac'd in hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and notional things. 26. I went to see Col. Blount's subterranean warren, and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good for little. 31. Sir Nich. Crisp came to treate with me about his vast dcsignc of a Mole to be made for ships in part of my grounds at Sayes Court. 3 Nov. I had accidentally discourse with a Persian and a Greeke concerning the sad devastation of Poland by the late incursion of the Swedes. 27. To London about Sir Nicholas Crisps designs. I went to see York House and gardens belonging to the former greate Buckingham, but now much ruin'd thro' neglect.' Thence to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib,'^ a public spirited and ingenious person, who had propagated many usefull things and arts. He told me of the Castles which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany (he himselfe being a Lithuanian as I remember), which are furnish'd with small ordinance of silver on the battlements, out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the roomes charging them with a little powder to set them on fire and disperse the smoke; and in truth no more than neede, for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me of an inke that would give a dozen copies, moist sheets of paper being press'd on it, and remaine perfect ; and a receipt how to take off any print without the least injury to the originall. This gentleman was master of innumerable curiosities, and very communi- cative. I returned home that evening by water, and was afflicted for it with a cold that had almost kill'd me. 27. This day came forth the Protectors Edict or Proclamation, pro- hibiting all ministers of the Church of England from preaching or teaching any scholes, in which he imitated the Apostate Julian ; with the decimation of all the royal parties revenues throughout England. 14 Dec. I visited Mr. Hobbsthe famous philosopher of Malmesbury with whom I had ben long acquainted in France. Now were the Jews admitted. 25. There was no more notice taken of Christmas day in churches. I went to London where Dr. Wild preach'd the funeral sermon of ' The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected or the site ; viz. George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Off Alley, Buckingham Street » Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed to h.m. Mr. 1 odd in his Life of that Poet prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical Works, obser^-es that a l.Ue o. Hartlib is a desideratum in English Biography:' there are ample materials for it m the publi cations of the time. 246 EDICT OF CROMWELL. DR. WILKINS. VISIT TO WHITEHALL. Preaching, this being the last day, after which Cromwell's proclama- tion was to take place, that none of the Church of England should dare either to preach or administer Sacraments, teach schoole, &c. on paine of imprisonment or exile. So this was the mournfullest day that in my life I had scene, or the Church of England herselfe since the Re- formation ; to the greate rejoicing of both Papist and Presbyter'. So pathetic was his discourse that it drew many teares from the auditory. Myself, wife, and some of our family receiv'd the Communion ; God make me thankfull, who hath hitherto provided for us the food of our soulcs as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our distress'd Church, and bring back the captivity of Sion ! 1656. 5 Jan. Came to visit mc my Lord Lisle, sonn to the Earle of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two of the Usurper's Council ; Mr. John Hervey, and John Denham the poet. 18. Went to Eltham on foote, being a greate frost, but a mist fall- ing as I returned, gave me such a rheume as kept me within doores neere a whole moneth after. 5 Feb. Was shew'd me a pretty perspective and well represented in a triangular box, the greate Church of Harlem in Holland, to be scene thro' a small hole at one ol the corners and contriv'd into an handsome cabinet. It was so rarely don, that all the artists and painters in towne flock'd to see and admire it. 10. I heard Dr. Wilkins'* preach before the Lord Mayor in St. Pauls, shewing how obedience was preferable to sacrifice. He was a most obliging person, who had married the Protector's sister, and tooke greate pains to preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious Commanders and Souldiers, who would faine have demolish'd all places and persons that pretended to learning. 11. I ventur'd to go to White-hall, where of many yeares I had not ben, and found it very glorious and well furnish'd as far as I could safely go, and was glad to find they had not much defac'd that rare piece of Hen. VIL &c. don on the walles of the King's privy chamber. 14, I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley of Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with my Lord Bruce, my fellow-traveller in Italy. 19. Went with Dr. Wilkins to see Barlow, the famous painter of fowls, beasts and birds. 4 Mar. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger L'Estrange to hear the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. His variety on a few notes and plaine ground with that wonderful dexterity was admirable. Tho' a young man, yet so perfect and skilfull, that there was nothing, how 1 The text was 2 Cor. 13. 9, That, however persecution dealt with the Ministers of God's word, they were still to pray for the flocke, and wish their perfection, as it vras the flocke to pray for and assist their pastors, by the example of St. Paul. J. E. ' Afterwards Bishop of Chester. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 247 ever cross and perplext, brought to him by our Artists which he did not play off at sight with ravishing swoetnesse and improvements, to the astonishment of our best Masters. In sum he plaid on that single instrument a full concert, so as the rest flung down their instruments, acknowledging the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this hour amaz'd that God should give so greate perfection to so young a person. There were at that time as excellent in their profession as any were thought to be in Europ, Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell and others, till this prodigie appear'd. I can no longer question the effects we reade of in David's harp to charme evil spirits, or what is said some particular notes produc'd in the passions of Alexander, and on that King of Denmark. 12 April. Mr. Berkeley, and Mr. Robert Boyle (that excellent per- son and greate virtuoso), Dr. Taylor and Dr. Wilkins, din'd with me at Sayes Court, when I presented Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning- glasse. In the afternoone we all went to Colonel Blount's to see his new-invented plows. 22. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Paston's sonn, since Earle of Yarmouth. Afterwards I went to see his Majesty's house at Eltham, both Palace and Chapell in miserable ruines, the noble woods and park destroy'd by Rich the Rebell. 6 May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French Sorbonnist, a proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor ; they fell to dispute on ori- ginal sinn, in Latine, upon a booke newly publish'd by the Doctor, who was much satisfied with the young man. Thence I went to see Mr. Dugdale, our learned Antiquarie and Herald. Returning, I was show'd the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's ' Obeliscus Pam- philius ' and * yEgyptiacus in the second volume I found the Hiero- glyphic I first communicated and sent to him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he mentions. I design'd it from the stone itselfe brought me to Venice from Cairo by Cap. Powell. 7. I visited Dr. Taylor and prevail'd on him to propose Mons. le Franc to the Bishop that he might have orders, I having some time before brought him to a full consent to the Church of England her doctrine and discipline, in which he had till of late made some diffi- culty ; so he was this day ordain'd both Deacon and Priest, by the Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his Lordship, who was very poore and in greate want, to that necessity were our Clergy reduc'd ! In the afternoone I met Alderman Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papilhon about the marriage of my cousin Geo. Tuke with Mrs. Fontame. 8. I went to visit Dr. Wilkins at White-bail, when I first met with Sir P. Neale, famous for his op^ic glasses. Grea.orix the mathematical instrument maker shew'd me his excellent invention to quench fire. 12. Was publish'd my Essay on Lucretius,' with mnumerablc I ATtansUtioii Lnto English verse of the first Book on)y. the Frontispiece to A\ch wa, 248 THE HOLLAND AMBASSADOR. DUKE OF ARGYLE. COLCHESTER. errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet who undertook the correction of the press in my absence. Little of the Epicurean philosophy was then known amongst us. 28. I din'd with Nieuport the Holland Ambassador, who receiv'd me with extraordinary courtesie. I found him a judicious, crafty and wise man. He gave me excellent cautions as to the danger of the times, and the circumstances our nation was in. I remember the ob- servation he made upon the ill success of our former Parliaments, and their private animosities, and little care of the public. Came to visit me the old Marques of Argyle (since executed), Lord Lothian, and some other Scotch noblemen, all strangers to me. Note, the Marques tooke the turtle-doves ir. the aviary for owles. The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. Spencer, bro- ther to the Earle of Sunderland, came to see my garden. 7 July. I began my journey to see some parts of the North East of England, but the weather was so excessive hot and dusty that I shortned my progresse. 8. To Colchester, a faire towne, but now wretchedly demolished by the late siege, especialy the suburbs, which were all burnt, but were then repairing. The towne is built on a rising ground, having faire meadows on one side, and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to have ben built by K. Coilus, father of Helena mother of Con- stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the pinnacle of one of their wool-staple houses, where is a statue of Coilus in wood, wretchedly carved. The walles are exceeding strong, deeply trench'd and fill'd with earth. It has 6 gates and some watch-towres, and some handsome churches. But what was shewed us as a kind of miracle, at the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir Cha. Lucas and Sir Geo. Lisle, those valiant and noble persons who so bravely behav'd them- selves in the last siege, were barbarously shot, murder'd by Ireton in cold blood after surrendering on articles ; having ben disappointed of relief from the Scotch army, which had ben defeated with the King at Worcester. The place was bare of grasse for a large space, all the rest of it abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged and fac- tious towne, now swarming with Sectaries. Their trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and bales and sales with Spaine ; it is the only place in England where these stuffs are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters and eringo-root, growing here about and candied for sale. designed by Mr. Evelyn's Lady. Prefixed to the copy in the Library at Wotton is this note in his own hand-writing : ' Never was book so abominably misused by printer: never copy so negligently surveied by one who undertooke to looke over the proofe-sheetes with all exactnesse and care, namely Dr. Triplet, well knowne for his abilitie, and who pretended to oblige rne in -^ly absence, and so readily offer'd himselfe. This good yet I received by it, that publishing w vainely. Us ill succcsse at the printer's discourag'd me with troubling the worlde with the rest,' THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 249 Went to Dedham, a pretty country towne, having a veiy faire church finely situated, the valley well watred. Here I met with Dr. Stokes a young gentleman but an excellent mathematician. This is a clothing towne, as most are in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. Hence to Ipswich, doubtlesse one of the sweetest, most pleasant, well built Townes in England. It has twelve faire churches,many noble houses, especialy the Lord Devereux's ; a brave kay and commodious harbour, being about 7 miles from the maine ; an ample mercat-place. Here was born the Great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, which was not finish'd. I had the curiosity to visite some Quakers here in prison ; a new phanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who shew no respect to any man, magistrate or other, and seeme a melancholy proud sort of people, and exceedingly ignorant. One of these was said to have fasted 20 daies, but another endeavouring to do the like, perish'd on the loth, when he would have eaten but could not. 10. I return'd homeward, passing againe thro' Colchester ; and by the way neere the antient towne of Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built in a parke by Henry 7. and 8. and given by Queen Elizabeth to the Earle of Sussex, who sold it to the late greate Duke of Buckingham, and since seiz'd on by O. Cromwell (pretended Protector). It is a faire old house built with brick, low, being only of 2 stories, as the manner then was ; the Gate-house better ; the Court large and pretty ; the staire-case of extraordinary widnesse, with a piece representing Sir F. Drake's actioji in the year 1580, an excellent sea-piece; the galleries are trifling ; the hall is noble ; the garden a faire plot, and the whole seate well accommodated with water ; but above all I admir'd the faire avenue planted with stately lime-trees in 4 rowes, for neere a mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only fault, and may be reform'd. There is another faire walk of the same at the mall and wildernesse, with a tennis-court, and pleasant terrace towards the park, which was well stor'd with deere and ponds. 11. Came home by Greenwich Ferry, where I saw Sir John Win- ter's new project of charring sea-coale, to burne out the sulphure and render it sweete. He did it by burning the coales in such earthen pots as the giasse-men mealt their mettall, so firing them without consuming them, using a barr of yron in each crucible or pot, which barr has a hook at one end, that so the coales being mealted in a fur- nace with other crude sea-coales under them, may be drawn out of the potts sticking to the yron, whence they are beaten off in greate halfe- exhausted cinders, which being rekindled make a clearc pleasant cham- ber fire, depriv'd oi their sulphur and arsenic malignity. What successe it may have, time will discover.' . tSoiae years ago Lord Dimdonald revived the project, but with the projected improvement of extracting and sa^'ing the Tar. Unforiiinately his Lordship did not profit by it. 1 ne t^as-i.jglit Company sell the coal thus charred, by the name Coke, for fuel for m^ny purposes (1818). 250 SIR H. VANE IMPRISONED. DR. WILD'S LODGINGS, LONDON. 3 Aug. I went to London to receive the B. Sacrament, the first time the Church of England was reduced to a chamber and conven- ticle, so sharp was the persecution. The Parish Churches were fill'd with Sectaries of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping the pulpets every where. Dr. Wild preach'd in a private house in Fleete Streete, where we had a greate meeting of zealous Christians, who were generaly much more devout and religious than in our greatest prosperity. In the afternoone I went to the French Church in the Savoy, where I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechise, and so return'd to my house. 20. Was a confus'd election of Parliament cal'd by the Usurper. 7 Sept. I went to take leave of my excellent neighbour and friend Sir H. Newton & Lady, now going to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr. Needham, my dear and learned friend, came to visite me. 14. Now was old Sir Hen. Vane sent to Carisbrook Castle in Wight for a foolish booke he publish'd ; the pretended Protector fortifying himselfe exceedingly, and sending many to prison. 2 Oct. Came to visite me my co. Stephens, and Mr. Pierce (since Head of Magdalen Coll. Oxford) a learned minister of Brington in Northamptonshire, and Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. 2 Nov. There was now nothing practical preached or that pressed reformation of life, but ui^h and speculative points and straines that few understood, which left people very ignorant and of no steady prin- ciples, the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was much envy and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy amend it ! Now indeed that I went at all to church whilst these usurpers possess'd the pulpets, was that I might not be suspected for a Papist, and that tho* the Minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I understood duly ordain'd, and preach'd sound doctrine after their way, and besides was an humble, harmlesse and peaceable man. 25 Dec. I went to London to receive the B. Communion this holy festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, where I rejoiced to find so full an assembly of devout and sober Christians. 26. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants according to cos- tome, and to preserve hospitality and charity. 28. A stranger preached on 18 Luke, 7, 8. on which he made a con- fused discourse, with a greate deale of Greeke and ostentation ol learning to but little purpose. 30. Dined with me Sir William Paston's sonn, Mr. Henshaw and Mr. Clayton. 31. I begged God's blessings & mercys for his goodnesse to me the past yeere, and set my domestic affaires in order. 1657. January I. Having praied with my family and celebrated the Anniversarie, I spent some time in imploring God's blessing the yeare I was entred into. THE DIARV OF JOHN EVELYN. 251 7 Jan. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since Secretary to the Duke, slain in the Dutch war) eldest son to the Bishop of Ely, now a prisoner in the Tower ; a most worthy and learned gentleman. 10. Came Dr. Joylife, that famous physician and anatomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins : also the old Marques of Argyle and another Scotch Earle. 5 Feb. Din'd at the Holland Ambassador's ; he told me the East India Company of Holland had constantly a stock oi ^400,000 in India, and 48 men of war there : he spoke of their exact and just keeping their books & correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock could possibly be lost or defeated ; that it was a vulgar error that the Hollanders furnished their enemies with powder and ammunition lor their money, tho' engaged in a cruell warr, but that they us'd to mer- chandize indifferently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their enemies. He laugh'd at our Committee of Trade, as compos'd of men whoiy ignorant of it, and how they were the ruine of commerce, by gratifying some for private ends. 10 Feb. I went to visite the Governor of Havanna, a brave, sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Capt. Young of Deptiord, when after 20 yeares being in the Indies, and amassing greate wealth, his lady and whole family except two sonns were burnt, destroy'd and taken within sight of Spaine, his eldest sonn, daughter and wife perishing with immense treasure.' One sonn, of about 17 years old, with his brother of one yearc old, were the onely ones sav'd. The young gentleman about 17, was a well-complexion'd youth, not olive-colour'd ; he spake Latine handsomely, was extreamely well- bred, and born in the Caraccas, 1000 miles South of the Equinoxial, neere the mountaines of Potosi ; he had never ben in Europe before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of greate courage, of the order of St. Jago, soi-e wounded in his arme, and his ribs broken ; he lost for his owne share ^^100,000 sterling, which he seem'd to beare with exceeding indifference, and nothing dejected. After some dis- course I went with them to Arundel House, where they dm'd. They were now going back into Spaine, having obtain'd their liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude ! 14. To London, where I found Mrs. Carey ; next day came Mr. Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt, younger sonn to the Countessc 01 Peterborow) to see his Mistress, bringing with him two of my Lord ot Dover's daughters : so after dinner they all departed. 5 Mar. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to me his Version of Gassendus's Vita Peiriskii. . 25. Dr. Taylor shew'd me his MSS. of Cases of Conscience, or Duao dubitantiuin, now fitted for the presse. . , 1 J •„ Waller's Poem on a War with Spain. Fight J This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller s l-oem on at Sea by G«reral Montague 1656. 252 VISIT BEDLAM, AND CHRIST-CHURCH AND HOSPITAL. The Protector, Oliver, now affecting Kingship, is petition'd to take the Title on him by all his new-made sycophant Lords, &c. but dare3 not for feare of the Phanatics, not thoroughly purg'd out of his Rebell Army. 21 April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer of Hanmer in Wales, to see me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton, with whom I dined ; at my returne I stept into Bedlame, where I saw several poore miserable creatures in chaines ; one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, now an old neate fresh solitarie CoUedge for decaied gentlemen. It has a grove, bowling-greene, garden, chapell, and a halle where they eate in common. I likewise saw Christ-church and Hospital, a very goodly Gotic building ; the hall, school, and lodgings in greate order for bringing up many hundreds of poore children of both sexes ; it is an exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of the hall, representing the Governors, flounders, and the Institution. 25. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent Garden, going to my brother's, but without harme : the Lord be praised. I May. Divers souldiers were quarter'd at my house, but I thank God went away the next day towards Flanders. 5. I went with my cousin George Tuke to see Baynards in Surrey, an house of my brother Richard's, which he would have hir d. This is a very faire noble residence, built in a park, and having one of the goodliest avenues of oakes up to it that ever I saw ; there is a pond of 60 acres neere it ; the windows of the cheife roomes are of very fine painted glasse. The situation is excessively dirty and melancholy.' 15. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some other of his Court Lords, came in the afternoon to see my garden and plantations. 7 June. My fourth sonn was born, christen'd George (after my Grandfather) : Dr. Jer. Taylor officiating in the drawing-room. 18. At Greenwich I saw a sort of Catt- brought from the East Indies, shap'd and snouted much like the Egyptian racoon, in the body like a monkey, and so footed ; the eares and taile like a catt, onely the taile much longer, and the skin variously ringed with black and white ; with the taile it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its haire was woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly nimble, gentle, and purr'd as dos the catt. July 16. On Dr. Jer. Taylor's recommendation I went to Eltham, to help one Moody, a young man, to that hving, by my interest with the Patron. 6 Aug. I went to see Col. Blount, who shewed me the application 1 It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst in Surrey, adjoining to Rudgwick in Sussex, in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir Edward Bmy. It belonged to the late Earl of Onslow, who carried the painted glass to his seat at Clandon. 8 This was pr'obnbly the animal called a Mocock, well known at present. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. of the W ay-wiser to a coach, exactly measuring the miles, and shewing them by an index as we went on. It had 3 circles, one pointing to the number of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the sub- divisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful. 10. Our Vicar, from John 18. v. 36, declaim'd against the folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, call'd the Fifth-Monarchy- iMefi, pretending to set up the kingdome of Christ with the sword. To this passe was this age ariv'd when we had no King in Israel. 21. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the yeare was very sickly in the country. I Sept. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer at his melancholy seate at Camerwell. He has a very pretty grove of oakes, and hedges of yew in his garden, and a handsom row of tall elmes before his court. 15. Going to London with some company, we stept in to see a famous Rope-dauncer call'd The Turk. I saw even to astonishment the agilitie with which he perform'd ; he walk'd barefooted taking hold by his toes only of a rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touching it with his hands ; he daunc'd blindfold on the high rope and with a boy of 12 yeares old tied to one of his feete about 20 foote be- neath him, dangling as he daunc'd, yet he mov'd as nimbly as if it had ben but a feather. Lastly he stood on his head on the tope of a very high mast, daunc'd on a small rope that was very slack, and finally flew downe the perpendicular, on his breast, his head foremost, his legs and arms extended, with divers other activities. — I saw the hairy woman,* 20 years old, whom I had before seen w^hen a child. She was borne at Augsburg in Germany. Her very eye-browes were comb'd upwards, and all her forehead as thick and even as growes on any woman's head, neatly dress'd ; a very long lock of haire out of each eare ; she had also a most prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on the middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the colour of a bright browne, fine as well-dress'd flax. She was now married, and told me she had one child that was not hairy, nor were any of her parents or relations. She was very well shap'd, and plaied well on the harpsichord, &c. 17. I went to see Sir Robert Needham at Lambeth, a relation of mine ; and thence to John Tradescant's Musaeum, m which the cheifest rarities were, in my opinion, the ancient Roman, Indian and other nations armour, shields, and weapons ; some habits of curiously-coiour'd and wrought feathers, one from the phcenix wing as tradition goes. Other innumerable things there were, printed in his catalogue by Mr Ashmole, to whom after the death of the widow they are bequeath d, and by him design'd as a gift to Oxford.^ 1 Barbara Vanbeck. I here are two portraits of her. one an engraving th« other in merzo. tinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There is also another rcprcscauuon of her in some German Book of Natural History. a Where they now are in the Ashmolean Museum. See under 1678, July. 254 SUBSCRIBE TO EAST INDIA COMPANY. ARRESTicD AT CHURCH. 22. To towne to visit the Holland Ambassador, with whom I had now contracted much friendly correspondence, useful to the inteUigence I constantly gave his Majesty abroad. 19 Sept. I went to see divers gardens about London: returning I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's 2 Virginian rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard in length, small heads, slender tailes, but in the middle nearly the size of my leg ; when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tailes, as loud as a child's rattle: this, by the collision of certaine grissly skinns curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent as parchment, by which they give warning: a providential caution for other creatures to avoid them. The Doctor tried their biting on ratts and mice, which they im- mediately killed: but their vigour must needes be much exhausted here, in another climate, and kept only in a barrell of bran. 26 Nov. I went to London to a Court of the East India Company upon its new union, in Merchant Taylors' Hall, where was much diss- order by reason of the Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers oblig'd onely by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might pursue their private trade ; but it was carried against them. Wednes- day was fix'd on for a General Court for election of officers, after a sermon and prayers for good successe. The stock resolv'd on was 800,000/. 27. I tooke the oath at the E. India House, subscribing 500/. 2. Dec. Dr. Raynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) preach'd before the Company at St. Andrew Undershaft, on 13 Nehemiah, 31, shewing by the example of Nehemiah all the perfections of a trusty person in publique affaires, with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending with a prayer for God's blessing on the Company and the un- dertaking. 3. Mr. Gunning preached on 3 John, 3. against the Anabaptists, shewing the effect and necessity of the Sacrament of Baptisme. This sect was now wonderfully spread. 25. I went to London with my wife, to celebrate Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter Chapell, on 7 Michah 2. Sermon ended, as he was giving us the Holy Sacrament, the chapell was sur- rounded with souldiers, and all the communicants and assembly sur- priz'd and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others carried away. It fell to my share to be confin'd to a roome in the house, where yet I was permitted to dine with the master of it, the Countesse of Dorset, Lady Hatton, and some others of quality who invited me. In the afternoone came Col. Whaly, Goffe and others, from White-hall, to examine us one by one ; some they committed to the Marshall, some to prison. When I came before them they tooke my name and abode, examin'd me why, contrarie to an ordinance made that none should any longer observe the superstitious time of the Nativity (so esteemed by them), I durst offend,, and particularly be at Common Prayers, which THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 255 they told me was but the masse in English, and particularly pray for Charles Steuart, for which we had no Scripture. I told them we did not pray for Cha. Stewart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes, and Governors. They replied, in so doing we praid for the K. of Spame too, who was their enemie and a papist, with other frivolous and in- snaring questions and much threatning ; and finding no colour to de- taine me, they dismiss'd me with much pitty of my ignorance. These were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spake spiteful things of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to receive the Sacrament the miscreant^s held their muskets against us as if they would have shot us at the altar, but yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as perhaps not having instructions what to do in case they found us in that action. So I got home late the next day, blessed be God. 1658. 27 Jan. After six fits of a quartan ague with which it pleased God to visite him, died my deare son Richard, to our inexpressible griefe and affliction, 5 yeares and 3 days old onely, but at that tender age a prodigy for witt and understanding ; for beauty of body a very angel ; for endowment of mind of incredible and rare hopes. To give onely a little taste of some of them, and thereby glory to God, who out of the mouths of babes and infants does sometimes perfect his praises : at 2 yeares and halfe old he could perfectly reade any of the English, Latine, French, or Gottic letters, pronouncing the three first languages exactly. He had before the 5th yeare, or in that yeare, not onely skill to reade most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate the verbs regular, and most of the irregular ; learn'd out Puerilis, got by heart almost the entire vocabularie of Latine and French primitives and words, could make congruous syntax, turne English into Latine, and vice versa, construe and prove what he read, and did the government and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, elipses, and many figures and tropes, and made a considerable progress in Comenius's Janua ; began himselfe to write legibly, and had a stronge passion for Greeke. The number of verses he could recite was prodigious, and what he remem- ber'd of the parts of playes ; which he would also act ; and when seeing a Plautus in one's hand, he ask'd what booke it was, and being told it was comedy, and too difficult for him, he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious application of fables and morals, for he had read ^sop ; he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by heart divers propositions of EucHd that were read to him in play, and he would make lines and demonstrate them. As to his piety, astonish- ing were his applications of Scripture upon occasion, and his sense of God ; he had learn'd all his Catechisme early, and understood the his- torical part of the Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ came to redeeme mankind, and how, comprehending these necessarys himselfe, his godfathers were discharg'd of their promise. These and the like illummations far exceeded his age and experience, considering 256 DEATH-BED EXPERIENCES OF MY YOUNG SON RICHARD. the prettinesse of his addresse and behaviour, cannot but leave impres- sions in me at the memory of him. When one told him how many dayes a Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder, for Christ had said man should not live by bread alone, but by the Word ol God. He would of himselfe select the most pathetic psalms, and chap- ters out of Job, to reade to his mayde during his sicknesse, telling her when she pitied him that all God's children must suffer affliction. He declaim'd against the vanities of the world before he had scene any. Often he would desire those who came to see him to pray by him, and a yeare before he fell sick, to kneel and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully would he receive admonition, how soon be reconciled ! how indifferent, yet continualy chereful ! He would give grave advice to his brother John, beare with his impertinencies, and say he was but a child. If he had heard of or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how it was made ; he brought to us all such difficulties as he found in books, to be expounded. He had learn'd by heart divers sentences in Latin and Greeke, which on occasion ht would produce even to wonder. He was all life, all prettinesse, far from morose, sullen, or childish in any thing he said or did. The last time he had ben at church (which was at Greenwich), I ask'd him, according to costome, what he remembered of the sermon ; two good things, father, said he, bonum gratice and bonum glories, with a just account of what the preacher said. The day before he died he cal'd to me, and in a more serious manner than usual told me that for all I loved him so dearly I should give my house, land, and all my fine things, to his brother Jack, he should have none of them ; the next morning, when he found himself ill, and that I persuaded him to keepe his hands in bed, he demanded whether he might pray to God with his hands un- joyn'd ; and a little after, whilst in greate agonie, whether he should not offend God by using his holy name so often calling for ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical ejaculations utter'd of himselfe ; Sweete Jesus save me, deliver me, pardon my sinns, let thine angels receive me ! So early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But thus God having dress'd up a Saint fit for himselfe, would not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future fruites of this incomparable hope- full blossome. Such a child I never saw: for such a child I blesse God in whose bosome he is ! May I and mine become as this little child, who now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a white robe whithersoever he goes ; Even so, Lord Jesus,yf^7/ voluntas tua ! Thou gavest him to us, Thou hast taken him from us, blessed be the name of the Lord ! That I had any thing acceptable to Thee was from thy grace alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that Thou hast pardon'd ! blessed be my God for ever, amen ! In my opinion he was suffocated by the women and maids that tended him, and cover'd him too hot with blankets as he lay in a cradle, near THE UlARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 257 an cxct:;sive hot fire in a close roome. I suffer'd him to be open'd. when they found that he was what is vulgarly call'd liver-growne! I caused his body to be coffin'd in lead and reposited on the 30th at 8 o'clock that night in the church of Deptford accompanied with divers of my relations and neighbours, among whom I distributed rings with this motto, Dominus abstulit j intending, God willing, to have him transported with my owne body to be interr d in our dormitory in Wotton church, in my dear native county Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with my fathers, if God be gracious to me and make me as fit for Him as this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify this and all other my afflictions. Amen ! ' Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even mourning tc the grave. 15 Feb. The afflicting hand of Cod being still upon us, it pleased Him also to take away from us this morning mv youngest sonn, George, now 7 weekes languishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a dropsie. God's holy will be done ! He was buried in Deptford church the 17th following. 25. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor & my Brothers with other friends tf) visite and condole with us. March 7. To London to hear Dr. Taylor in a private house cn 13 Luke 23, 24. After the sennon followed the blessed Communion, of which I participated. In the afternoone Dr. Gunning at Excester House expounding part of the Creede. This had ben the severest winter that any man alive had known in England. The crowes feete were frozen to their prey. Islands of ice inclos'd both fish and fowl frozen, and some persons in their boates. 15 May was a pubhc Fast to avert an epidemical sicknesse, very mortal this spring. 20. I went to see a coach-race m flicie Park, and collation'd in Spring Garden. 23. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preach'd at Covent Gar- den, on 6 Matthew 10. shewing what the kingdome of God was, how pray for it, &c. There was nov/ a collection for persecuted and sequester'd Ministers of the Church of England, whereof divers are in prison. A sad day ! The Church now in dens and caves of the earth. 31. I went to visite my Lady Peterborow, whose sonn, Mr. Mor- daunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his trial, and acquitted but by one voice ; but that holy martyr Dr. Hewer was condemn'd to die, without law, jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State as they call'd it. A dangerous, treacherous time ! 1 In the Preface to his Translation of " The Goldcui Book of St. y«»ton:^ncer^^^^^^^ the Education of Children," is lil> Blount the famous traveller and water-drinker. 10. I came with my wife and family to London: tooke lodgings at the 3 Feathers in Russell Street, Covent Garden, for all the winter, my sunn being very unwell. II Oct. Came to visite me Mr. William Coventry (since Secretary to the Duke) son to the Lord Keeper, a wise and witty gentleman. The Armie now turn'd out the Parliament. We had now no Govern- ment in the Nation ; all in confusion ; no Magistrate either own'd or pretended but the Souldiers, and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on and settle us ! 17. I visited Mr. Howard at Arundel house, who gave me a faire onyx set in gold, and shew'd me his designe of a Palace there. 21. A private Fast was kept by the Church of England Protestants in towne, to beg of God the removal of His judgments, with devout prayers for His mercy to our calamitous Church. 7 Nov. Was publish'd my bold Apologie for the King in this time of danger, when it was capital to speake or write in favour of him. It was twice printed, so universaly it took. 9. We observ'd our solemn Fast for the calamity of our Church. 12. I went to see the severall drougs for the confection of Treacle, Dioscordmm, and other Electuaries, which an ingenious Apothecarie had not onely prepared and rang'd on a large and very long table, but cover'd every ingredient with a sheete of paper, on which was very lively painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it plant, flowre, animal, or other exotic droug. 15 Nov. Din'd with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in a manner acknowledge that his Nation mind only their own profit, do nothing out of gratitude, but collateraly as it relates to their gaine or security ; and therefore the English were to look for nothing of assistance to the banish'd King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, the' an ingenuous confession. 18. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and preached on 2 Phil. 12, 13.— Nov. 24. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the 41st wedding-day feast, where was much company of friends. 26. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers learned and worthy persons. Sir J. Marsham, Mr. Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and others. 9 Dec. I supp'd with Mr. Gunning, it being our Fast-day, Dr. Feame, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild^ and other devout and learned Divines, firm Confessors and excellent persons. Note: Most of them since made Bishops. ' He was of St. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Abp. Laud, Vicar of St. Giles, Read* ing. Adhering to the King he preach'd before the Parliament at Oxford. After the Restora- tion he was made Bp. of Londonderry in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meeting fw the Royalisu in Fleet Street. Wood's Athcnae, vol. II. p. 251 THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 263 10. I treated privately with Col. Morley, then Lieutenant of the Tower, and in greate trust and power, concerning delivering it to the King, and the bringing of him in, to the greate hazard of my life, but the Coll. had ben my scholefellovv, and I knew would not betray me. 12. I spent in publiq concerns for his Majesty^ pursuing the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his brother-in-law Fayne, Governor of Portsmouth. 18. Preached that famous divine Dr. Sanderson (since Bp. of Line.) now 80 yeares old, on 30 Jer. 13. concerning the evil of forsaking God. 29. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour to visite me. I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. 31. Settling my domestic affaires in order, blessed God for liis infinite mercies and preservations the past yeare. Annus MiRABlLiS 1660. Jan. i. Begging God's blessings for the following yeare, I went to Excester Chapell, when Mr. Gunning began the yeare on 4 Galatians v. 3 to 7, shewing the love of Christ in shed- ding his blood so early for us. 12. Wrote to Col. Morley againe to declare for his Majesty. 22. I went this afternoone to visit Coll. Morley. After dinner I dis- cours'd with him, but he was very jealous, and would not believe Monk came in to do the King any service ; L told him he might do it without him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtfull, and would re- solve on nothing yet, so I took leave. 3 Feb. Kept the Fast. Generall Monk came now to London out of Scotland, but no man knew what he would do, or declare, yet he was met on all his way by the Gentlemen of all the Counties which he pass'd, with petitions that he would recall the old long interrupted Par- liament and settle the nation in some order, being at this time in most prodigious confusion and under no government, every body expecting what would be next and what he would do. 10. Now were the Gates of the Citty broken down by General Monke, which exceedingly exasperated the Citty, the souldiers marching up and down as triumphing over it, and all the old army of the phanatics put '^ut of their posts, and sent out of towne. 11. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous and wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped the supreame power, and having intelligence that they intended to take away his commission, repenting of what he had don to the Citty, and where he and his forces quartered, marches to White-hall, dissipates that nest of robbers, and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump Parliament (so call'd as retain- ing some few rotten members of the other) being dissolv'd ; and for joy whereoff were many thousand of rumps roasted publiqly in the streetes It the bonfires this nighty with ringing of bells, and universal jubilee. This was the first good omen. ^ Pamphlets with cuts representing this were printed at the tims 264 MY PAMPHLET. THE RESTORATION OF CHARLES li. From 17 Feb. to 5 April I was detam'd in bed with a kind of double tertian, the cruell effects of the spleene and other distempers, in that extremity that my physicians, Drs. Wetherbom, Needham, and Claud^, were m great doubt of my recovery, but it pleas'd God to deliver me out of this affliction, for which I render him hearty thanks : going to Church the 8th and receiving the blessed Eucharist. During this sicknesse came divers of my relations and friends to visite me, and it retarded my going into the country longer than I in- tended ; however I writ and printed a letter in defence of his Majesty^, against a wicked forg'd paper, pretended to be sent from Bruxells to dcfiime his Majesties person and vertues, and render him odious, now when every body was in hope and expectation of the General and Par- liament recalling him, and establishing the Government on its antient and right basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sicknesse, and setting up long in my bed, had caus'd a small relapse, out of which it yet pleas'd God also to free me, so as by the 14th I was able to go into the country, which I did to my sweete and native aire at Wotton. 3 May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's gracious de- claration and applications to the Parliament, Generall, and People, and their dutiful acceptance and acknowledgment, after a most bloudy and unreasonable rebellion of neere 20 yeares. Praised be for ever the Lord of Heaven, who onely dpcth wondrous things, because His mercy en- ilureth for ever ! 8. This day was his Majestie proclaim'd in London, &c. 9 May. I was desir'd, and designed to accompany my Lord Berkeley with the public Addresse of the Parliament, Generall, &c. to the King, and invite him to come over and assume his Kingly Government, he being now at Breda ; but I was yet so weake I could not make that journey by sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so I went to London to excuse myselfe, returning the loth, having yet receiv'd a gracious message from his Majestie by Major Scot and Coll. Tuke. 24. Came to me Col. Morley, about procuring his pardon, now too late seeing his error and neglect of the counsel I gave him, by which if he had taken it he had certainly done the great work with the same ease that Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a post to have done what he pleas'd, but his jealousie and feare kept him from that blessing and honor. I address'd him Lord Mordaunt, then in greate favour, for his pardon, which he obtain'd at the cost of 1000/. as I heard. O the sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did I not undergo of danger in this negotiation to have brought him over to his Majesty's interest, when it was intirely in his hands ! 29. This day his Majestie Charles IL came to London after a sad ' '^.'^ title cf it is, 'The late News or Message from Brussels unmask'd. ' This and the pampwct which cave occasion for it are printed in 'A Collection of interesting Tracts selected iiuiT. the Sommers Collection of Tracts,' i vol. 4to. 1795. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 265 and long exile and calamitous suffering both of the King and Church, being 17 yeares. This was Jso his birth-day, and with a triumph oi above 20,000 horse and foote brandishing their swords and shouting with inexpressible joy ; the wayes strew'd with flowers, the bells ringing, the streetes hung with tapistry, fountaines running with wine; the Maior, Aldermen, and all the Companies in their liveries, chaines of gold, and banners ; Lords and Nobles clad in cloth of silver, gold, and velvet ; the windowes and balconies well set with ladies ; trumpets, music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as from Rochester, so as they were seven houres in passing the Citty, even from 2 in the afternoone till 9 at night. I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and bless'd God. And all this was don without one drop of bloud shed, and by that very army which rebell'd against him ; but it was the Lord's doing, for such a Restaura- tion was never mention'd in any history antient or modern, since the returne of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so joytulla day and so bright ever scene in this Nation, this hapning when to expect or effect it was past all human policy. 4 June. I receiv'd letters of Sir Richard Browne's landing at Dover, and also letters from the Queene, which 1 was to deliver at White-hall, not as yet presenting myselfe to his Majesty by reason of the infinite concourse of people. The eagerness of men, women, and children to see his Majesty and kisse his hands was so greate, that he had scarce leisure to eate for some dayes, coming as they did from all parts of the Nation ; and the King being as willing to give them that satisfaction, would have none kept out, but gave accesse to all sorts of people. Addressing myselfe to the Duke, I was carried to his Majestic when very few noblemen were with him, and kiss'd his hands, being very graciously receiv'd. I then return'd home to meete Sir Richard Browne, who cam.e not till the 8th, after a 19 yeares exile, during all which time he kept up in his chapell the Liturgie and Offices of the Church of England, to his no small honour, and in a time when it was so low, and as many thought utterly lost, that in various controversies both with Papists and Sectaries our Divines us'd to argue for the visibility of the Church, from his chapell and congregation. 1 was all this week to and fro at Court about buisinesse. 16. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers came to make their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope pronouncing the harangue with greate eloquence. 18. I propos'd the Ambassy of Constantinople for Mr. Henshaw, but my Lord Winchelsea struck in.^ Goods that had ben pillag'd from White-haU during the Rebellion 1 It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship visiting Sicily was an eye- wit- nets of the dreadful eruption of Mount ^tna in 1669, a short account of which was afterwards published in a small pamphlet, with a cut by Hollar of the Mountiiin, &c. 266 TOUCHING FOR THE KING'S EVIL. CITY OF COLOGNk. were now daily brought in and restor'd -ipon proclamation ; as plate, hangings, pictures, &c. 21. The Warwickshire gentlemen f^s did all the shires and cheil townes in all the three Nations) presented their congratulatory Addresse. It was carried by my Lord Northampton 30. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Addresse, to which was my hand. I went with it and kiss'd his Majesties hand, who was pleas'd to own me more particularly by calling me his old acquaintance and speaking very graciously to me. 3 July. I went to Hide-park, where was his Majestic and abound- ance of gallantrie. 4. I heard Sir Sam. Tuke harangue to the House of Lords in behalfe of the Roman Catholics, and his account of the transaction at Colchester in murdering Lord Capel, and the rest of those brave men that suffer'd in cold bloud, after articles of rendition. 5. I saw his Majestie go with as much pompe and splendour as any earthly prince could do to the greate Citty feast, the first they had invited him to since his returne, but the exceeding raine which fell all that day much eclips'd its lustres. This was at Guild-hall, and there was also all the Parliament men, both Lords and Commons. The streetes were adorn'd with pageants at immense cost. 6. His Majestie began first to touch for the evil, according to cos- tome, thus : his Majestie sitting under his State in the Banquetting House, the Chirurgeons cause the sick to be brought or led up to the throne, where they kneeling, the King strokes their faces or cheekes with both his hands at once, at which instant a Chaplaine in his formalities says, * He put his hands upon them and he healed them.' This is sayd to every one in particular. When they have ben all touch'd they come up againe in the same order, and the other Chaplaine kneeling, and having Angel gold^ strung on white ribbon on his arme, delivers them one by one to his Majestie, who puts them about the necks of the touched as they passe, whilst the first Chaplaine repeats, ' That is the true light who came into the world.' Then followes an Epistle (as at first a Gospell) with the Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration, lastly the blessing ; and the Lo. Chamberlaine and Comptroller of the Household bring a basin, ewer and towell, for his Majestie to wash. The King receiv'd a congratulatory addresse from the Citty of Co- logne in Germany, where he had ben some time in his exile ; his Majesty saying they were the best people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him that he ever met with. I recommended Mons. Messeroy to be Judge Advocate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with the Earle of St. Albans ; and laluted my excellent and worthy noble friend my Lord Ossory, sonn to Ihe Marquess of Ormond, after many yeares absence returned home. - Pisces of money so called from having the figure of an angel on them. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 267 8. Mr. Henchman preached on 5 Ephes. 5, concerning Christian circumspection. From henceforth was the Liturgie pubhquely used in our Churches, whence it had ben for so many yeares banished. I $. Came Sir Geo. Carterett and Lady to visite us : he was now Treasurer of the Navy. 28. I heard his Majesties Speech in the Lords House, on passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restauration of my Lord Ormond to his estate in Ireland ; concerning the Commission of Sewers, and con- tinuance of the Excise.— In the afternoone I saluted my old friend the Archbishop of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). He presented several Irish Divines to be promoted as Bishops in that kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdoms being now almost worne out, and the Sees vacant. 31. I went to visite Sir Philip Warwick, now Secretary to the Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. Aug. 19. Our Vicar read the 39 Articles to the Congregation, the National Assemblies beginning to settle, and wanting instruction. 23. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several Scottish Lords, to see my garden. 25. Coll. Spencer, Collonel of a Regiment of Horse in our County of Kent, sent to me and intreated that I would take a Commission lor a Troope of Horse, and that I woulde nominate my Lieutenant and Ensigns ; I thank'd him the honour intended me, but would by no means undertake the trouble. 4 Sept. I was invited to an Ordination by the Bishop of Bangor in Henry the Sevenths Chapell, Westminster, and afterwards saw the audience of an Envoyee from the Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesties return. 5. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyde of the Kmg of Po- land and Resident of the King of Denmark, &c. 7. I went to Chelsey, to visite Mr. Boyle, and see his pneumatic engine performe divers experiments. Thence to Kensington, to visite M. Henshaw, returning home that evening. 13. I saw in Southwark at St. Margaret's Faire, monkies and apes dance and do other feates of activity on the high rope ; they were gal- lantly clad a la mode, went upright, saluted the company, bowing and puUing off their hatts ; they saluted one another with as good a grace as if instructed by a dauncing-master ; they turn'd heels over head with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking any ; also with lightea candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them, and with vessells of water without spiUing a drop. I also saw an Italian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on the high rope to admiration ; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man who tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 lb. weight with the haire of his head onely. «68 POLL TAX PAID. EXECUTION OP REGICIDES. 17 Sept. I went to London to see the splendid entry of the Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spaine ; he was Generall of the Spanish King's horse in Flanders, and v/as accompanied with diverf greate persons from thence, and an innumerable retinue. His train consisted of 17 coaches with 6 horses of his owne, besides a gre?te number of English, &c. Greater bravery had I never seene. He was receiv'd in the Banquetting House in exceeding state, all the greate Officers of Court attending. 13. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee the Duke of Glocester died of the small pox in the prime of his youth, and a prince of extraordinary hopes. 27. The King receiv'd the Merchants Addresses in his closet, givmg them assurance of his persisting to keepe Jamaica, choosing Sir Edw. Massy Governor. In the afternoone the Danish Ambassadors condolencies were presented, on the death of the D. of Gloucester. This evening I saw the Princesse Royal, mother to the Pr. of Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. 6 Oct. I paid the greate Tax of Poll Money levied for disbanding the Army, till now kept up. I paid as an Esquire ;^.io, and one shilling for every servant in my house. 7 Oct. There din'd with me a French Count, with Sir George Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent over to the Queene Mother to breake the marriage of the Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hide. The Queene would fain have undon it, but it seemes matters were reconcil'd on greate offers of the Chancellor's to befriend the Queene, who was much in debt, and was now to have the settlement of her affaires go through his hands. 1 1 Oct. The Regicides who sat on the life of our late King, were brought to tr>-al in the Old Bailey, before a Commission of Oyer and Terminer. 14. Axtall, Carew, Clements, Hacker, Hewson, and Peters, were executed. 17. Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for reward of their iniquities at Charing Crosse, in sight of the place where they put to death their natural Prince, and in the presence of the King his sonn whom they also sought to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their quarters mangl d and cutt and reeking as they were brought from the gailows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh the miraculous providence >f God ! 28. His Majesty went to meet the Queene Mother. 29. Going to London, my Lord^Maior's shew stopp'd me in Cheapside ; one of the pageants represented a greate Wood, with the Royal Oake and historie of his Majesty's miraculous escape at Boscobel. Oct. 31. Arived now to my Fortieth year, I rendered to Almighty Uod my due and hearty thanks. THE DIARY OP JOHN EVELYN. 269 ^ Nov. I. X went with some of my relations to Court, to shew them his Majesties cabinet and closset 0/ rarities ; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver after Raphael, Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely esteeme ; also that large piece of the Dutchesse of Lennox don in ena- maile by Petitot, and a vast number of achates, onyxes and intaglios, especially a medalion of Caesar, as broad as my hand ; likewise rare cabinets of Pietra Commessa ; a landscape of needlework, formerly presented by the Dutch to King Cha. I. Here I saw a vast book of mapps in a volume neere 4 yards large ; a curious ship modell ; and amongst the clocks, one that shew'd the rising and setting of the Sun in the Zodiaq, the Sunn represented by a face and raies of gold, upon an azure skie, observing the diurnal and annual motion, rising and setting behind a landscape of hills, the work of our famous Fromantel ; and severall other rarities. 3. Ariv'd the Queene Mother in England, whence she had ben banish'd almost 20 yeares ; together Avith her illustrious daughter the Princesse Henrietta, divers Princes and Noblemen accompanying them. 15. I kiss'd the Queene Mother's hand. 20. I din'd at the Clerk Comptroler's of the Greene Clothe, being the first day of the re-establishment of the Court Diet and settling of his Majesty's Household. 23. Being this day in the Bedchamber of the Princess Henrietta, where were many greate beauties and noblemen, I saluted divers of my old friends and acquaintances abroad ; his Majesty carrying my wife to salute the Queene and Princesse, and then led her into his closet, and with his owne hands shew'd her divers curiosities. 25. Dr. Rainbow preach'd before the King, on 2 Luke 14. of the glory to be given God for all his mercies, especialy for restoring the Church and government ; now the service; was perform'd with musiq, voices, &c. as formerly. 27. Came downe the Cleark Comptrolcr [of the Greene Cloth] by the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the land at Says Court, on which I had pretence, and to make his report.' Dec. 6. I waited on my brother and sister Evelyn to Court. Now were presented to his Majestie those two rare pieces of Droiery, or rather a Dutch Kikhin, painted by Dowe so finely as hardly to be distinguish'd from enamail. I was also shew'd divers rich jewells and chrystal vases ; the rare heiid of Jo. Belino, Titian's master ; Christ in the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incomparable heads by Hol- bein ; the Queene Mother in a miniature, almost as big as the life ; an exquisite piece of carving, 2 unicorns' homes, &c. This in the Closset I Th-j King's Household used to bo supplied with corn and cattle from the different Counties ; and oxen being sent up, pasture grounds of the King near town were allotted for them : amon-st these were lands at Deptford and Tottenham Court, which were under the direction of the Lord Steward and Board of Gfeeae Cloth. Sir Rick. Browne had the kaeping of the lands at Deptford. 270 DEATH OF THE 1»RINCESS OF ORANGE. 13. I presented my son John to the Queene Mother, who kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much of him. 14. I visited my Lord Chancellor, the Marchionesse of Ormond, and Countesse of Guildford, all of whom we had knowne abroad in exile. 18. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious gentleman, grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had re- commended him as Secretary. 22. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being now newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard Browne's intimate acquaintance when she waited on the Princesse of Orange ; she was now at her father's at Worcester House in the Strand. We all kiss'd her hand, as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and Coun- tesse of Northumberland. This was a strange change — can it succeed well ! — I spent the evening at St. James's, whither the Princesse Hen- rietta was retir'd during the fatal sicknesse of her sister the Princesse of Orange, now come over to salute the King her brother. The Prin- cesse gave my wife an extraordinary compliment and gracious accept- ance, for the 'Character' she had presented her the day before, and which was afterwards printed. 21. This day died the Princesse of Orange, of the small pox, which wholly alter'd tlie face and gallantry of the whole Court. 25. Preached at the Abbey Dr. Earle, Cleark of his Majesties Closet and my deare friend, now Deane of Westminster, on 2 Luke 13. 14. condohng the breache made in thepubliq joy by the lamented death of the Princesse. 30. I din'd at Court with Mr. Crane, Cleark of the Greene Cloth. 31. I gave God thankes for his many signal mercies to my selfe, Church and Nation, this wonderfull yeare. 1661. 2 Jan. The Queene Mother, with the Princesse Henrietta, began her journey to Portsmouth, in order to her returne into France. 5. 1 visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom I had ben well acquainted abroad. 5. Dr. Allestree preach'd at the Abby, after which 4 Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich .... This night was suppress'd a bloudy insurrection ot some Fifth-Mo- narchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examin'd at the Council the next day, but could say nothing to extenuate their madnesse and un- warrantable zeale. I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majestie for one of the Council) by suffrage of the rest of the Members, a Fellow of the Philo- sophic Society now meeting at Gressham College, where was an as- sembly of divers learned gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's return ; but it had ben begun some yeares before at Oxford, and was continued with interruption here in London during the Rebellion. 1 here was anotlier rising 01 the Phanatics, in which some were slaine. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 271 l6. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examin'd the Torri- cellian experiment. I presented my Circle of Mechanical Trades, and. had recommended to me the publishing of what I had written upon Chalcography. 25. After divers yeares since I had seen any play, I went to see acted *The Scornful Lady,' at a new Theater in Lincoln's Inn Fields. 30. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation to deplore the sinns which so long had provok'd God against this afflicted church and people, order'd by Parliament to be annually celebrated to expiate the guilt of the execrable murder of the late King. This day (O the stupendous and inscrutable judgments of God !) were the carcasses of those arch rebells Cromwell, Bradshaw the Judge who condemned his Majestie, and Ireton, sonn-in-law to the Usurper, dragg'd out of their superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburne, and hang'd on the gallows there from 9 in the morning till 6 at night, and then buried under that fatal and ignominious monument in a deepe pitt ; thousands of people who had scene them in all their pride being spectators. Looke back at Nov. 22, 1658, [Oliver's funeral,] and be astonish'd ! and feare God and honor the King ; but meddle not with them who are given to change ! 6 Feb. To London to our Society, where I gave notice of the visit of the Danish Ambassador Extraordinary, and was ordered to return him their acceptance of that honour, and to invite him the next meeting day. 10. Dr. Baldero preach'd at Ely House, on 6 Matt. v. 33. of seeking early the kingdome of God ; after sermon the Bishop (Dr. Wren) gave us the blessing very pontifically. 13 Feb. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting at Gressham College, where were shew'd him divers experiments in vacuo^ and other curiosities. 21. Prince Rupert first shewed me how to grave in Mezzo Tinto. 26. I went to Lord Mordaunt's at Parson's Green. 27. Ash Wed. Preached before the King the Bishop of London (Dr. Sheldon) on 18 Matt. 25. concerning charity and forgivenesse. 8 March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and delivered to him the state of my concernement at Sayes Court. 9. I went with that excellent person and philosopher Sir Robeit Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsey, and saw divers effects of the Eolipile for weighing aire. 13. I went to Lambeth with Sir R. Browne's pretence to the War- denship of Merton Coll. Oxford, to which, as having ben about 40 years before a student of that house, he was elected by the votes of every Fellow except one ; but the Statutes of the house being so that unlesse every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, who is the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his Grace gave his nomina- 272 Mi^ HISTORY OF CHALCOGRAPHY. DFXLINE BEING KNIGHTED. tion to Sir T. Clayton, resid^^nt there and the Physick Professor ; fo: which I was not at all displeased, because, tho' Sir Richard miss'd it by much ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being no Fellow), yet it would have hinder'd Sir Richard from attending at Court to settle his greater concernes, and so have prejudic'd me, tho' he was much inclin'd to have pass'd his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at that time, for many reasons. So I tooke leave of his Grace, who was formerly Lord Treasurer in the reigne of Chs. 1. This afternoone Prince Rupert shew'd me with his owne hands the new way of graving called Mezzo Tinto, which afterwards by his per- mission I pubhsh'd in my History of Chalcography ; this set so many artistes on worke, that they soone ariv'd to that perfection it is since come, emulating the tenderest miniatures. Our Society now gave in my relation of the Pic of Teneriffe in the Great Canaries, to be added to more queries concerning divers natural things reported of that Island. I return'd home with my Cousin Tuke, now going for France, as sent by his Majesty, to condole the death of that greate minister and politician Cardinal Mazarine. 29. Dr. Heyhn (author of the Geography) preach'd at the Abby, on 5 Cant. 25. concerning Friendship & Charitie ; he was, I think, at this time quite darke, and so had ben for some yeares. 31. This night his MajeGtie promis'd to make my wife Lady of the Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future Queene (but which he never perform'd.) I April. I din'd with that great mathematician and virtuoso Mon- sieur Zulichem, inventor of the pendule clock, and discoverer of the pha:nomenon of Saturn's annulus ; he was elected into our Society. 19. To Londoi., and saw the bathing and rest of the ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the Coronation ; it was in the Painted Chamber, ^Vestminster. I might have received this honour, but declined it. 7 he rest of the Ceremonie was in the Chapell at White-hall, when tneir swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop de- livered them. 22. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majestic from the Tower of London to White-hall, when I saw him in the Banquetting House create 6 Earls, and as many Barons, viz. Edward Lord Hide,' Lord Chancellor, Earle of Clarendon; sup- 1 In 1656 or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde), by accusing him %f betraywig his M.ijesty's Counsels, and holding correspondence with Cromwell ; but these lllesations were so trivial and frivolous, that they manifestly appeared to be nothin? but the «Fccis of malice against him, an-i therefore produced the contrary eflfects to those which .some desired, and strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to believe that these suggesiioni. against him proceeded all from one and the same cause, namely, from the ambition wliich some pcoplo h id to cntor in his room into tho first trust of his Majesty's afrairs, if once tbey could remove him from his statioQ, Life of Kin- Janes II. from his own r-'ipcr^, 1816. vol. I. p. 374. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ported by the Earles of Northumberland and Sussex ; the Earle of Bedford carried the cap and coronet, the Earle of Warwick the sword, the Earle of Newport the mantle. Next, was Capel, created Earle of Essex ; Brudenell, Cardigan •, Valentia, Anglesea ; Greenvill, Bath ; and Howard, Earle of Carlisle. The Barons were : Denzill Holies ; Cornwallis ; Booth ; Townsend ; Cooper ; Crew ; who were all led up by severall Peers, with Garter and Officers of Armes before them ; when, after obedience on their severall approches to the Throne, tl-^ir patents were presented by Carter King at Armes, which being receiv'd by the Lord Chamberlaine and delivered to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary of State, were read and then againe deliver'd to his Majestie, and by him to the severall Lords created ; they were then rob'd, their coronets and collers put on by his Majestie, and they were plac'd in rank on both sides the State and Throne, but the Barons put off their caps and circles and held them in their hands, the Earles keeping on their coronets as cousins to the King. I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the severall arch-trium- phals built in the streetes at severall eminent places thro' which his Majesty was next day to passe, some of which, tho' temporary, and to stand but one yeare, were of good invention and architecture, with inscriptions. 23. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles II. in the Abby Church of Westminster ; at all which ceremonie I was present. The King and all his Nobility went to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount Mordaunt part of the way ; this was on Sun. the 22d, but indeede his Majestie went not til early this morning, and proceeded from thence to Westminster in this order First went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Messengers of the Chamber. 136 Esquires to the Knights of the Bath, each of whom had two, most richly habited. The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. Sewers of the Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clearks ot Chancery. Clearke of the Signet. Clearke of the Privy Scale. Clearks of the Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crowne. Chaplaines in or- dinary having dignitaries 10. Kings Advocats and Remembrancer. Council at Law. Members of the Chancery. Puisne Serjeants. Kings Attorney and Solicitor. Kings eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French and Latine tongue. Gent. Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers, Car- vers, anjl Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the Body 4. Masters of standing offices being no Councellors, of the Tents, Revels, Ceremonies, Armorie, Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlaine of the Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chiefe Baron. Lord C. Justice of the Common Pleas. Master of the Rolls. Lord C. Justice of England. Trumpets. Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. Knights of the Bath, 68, in crimson robes exceedmg rich • There is a full account of this Ceremony with fine Sculptures, in a folio volume, pubUshcd by John Ogilby, 1664. o 274 THE CORONATION OF CHARLES THE SECOND. and the noblest shew of the whole cavalcade, his Majestic excepted. Knt. Marshall. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the Jewells. Lords of the Privy Council. Comptroller of the Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trumpets. Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Armes. Barons. Two Pursuivants at Armes. Viscounts. Two Heraulds. Earles. Lord Chamberlaine of the Household. Two Heraulds. Marquisses. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and Norroy. Lord Chan- cellor. Lord High Steward of England. Two persons repre- senting the Dukes of Normandy and Aquitain, viz. Sir Richard Fanshawe and Sir Herbert Price, in fantastiq habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers. Garter. Lord Maior of London. The Duke of York alone (the rest by two's). Lord High Constable of England. Lord Great Chamberlaine of England. The Sword borne by the Earle Marshal of England. The KING in royal robes and equipage. After- wards follow'd Equerries, Footemen, Gent. Pensioners. Master of the Horse leading a horse richly caprison'd. Vice Chamberlaine. Captain of the Pensioners. Captain of the Guard. The Guard. The Horse Guard. The Troope of Volunteers with many other Officers and Gentlemen. This magnificent traine on horseback, as rich as embroidery, velvet, cloth of gold and silver, and jewells, could make them and their pransing horses, proceeded thro' the streetes strew 'd with flowers, houses hung with rich tapessry, windoes and balconies full of ladies ; the London Militia lining the ways, and the severall Companies with their banners and loud musiq rank'd in their orders ; the fountaines running wine, bells ringing, with speeches made at the severall trium- phal arches ; at that of the Temple Barr (neere which I stood) the Lord Maior was receiv'd by the Bayliff of Westminster, who in a scar- let robe made a speech. Thence with joyful acclamations his Majestic passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at night. The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to Westminster Abby. When his Majestic was enter'd, the Deane and Prebendaries brought all the regalia, and deliver'd them to severall Noblemen to beare before the King, who met them at the west doore of the Church singing an anthem, to the Quire. Then came the Peers in their robes, and coro- nets in their hands, til his Majestic was plac'd in a throne elevated before the altar. Then the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury bemg sick) went to every side of the throne to present the King to the People, asking if they would have him for their King and do him homage ; at this they shouted 4 times God save King Charles the Second/ Then an anthem was sung. Then his Majestic attended by 3 Bishops went up to the altar, and he offer'd a pall and a pound of gold. Afterwards he sate downe in another chaire during the sermon, which was preach'd by Dr. Morley then Bishop of Worcester. After sermon the King tooke his oath before the altar to maintain the Reli- gion, Magna Charta, and Laws of the Land. The hymn V^ni S. Sp, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. follow'd, and then the Litany by 2 Bishops. Then the Archbishop oi Canterbury, present but much indispos'd and weake, said Lift up you? hearts; at which the King rose up and put off his robes and uppei garments, and was in a waistcoate so opened in divers places that the Archb'p might commodiously anoint him, first in the pahTies of his hands, when an anthem was sung and a prayer read ; then his breast and twixt the shoulders, bending of both armes, and lastly on the crownc of the head, with apposite hymns and prayers at each anoynt- ing ; this don, the Deane clos'd and button'd up the wastcoate. Then was a coyfe put on, and the cobbium, syndon, or dalmatic, and over this a supertunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of the same, spurrs, and the sword, a prayer being first said over it by the Arch- bishop on the altar before t'was girt on by the Lord Chamberlaine. Then the armill, mantle, ' of Chalco- graphie (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our Society. 19 June. I went to Albury, to visite Mr. Hen. Howard soone after he had procured the dukedom to be restor'd. This gentleman had now compounded a debt of ;^.20o,ooo, contracted by his grandfather. I was much oblig'd to that greate virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I staled a fortnight. > A lady had this titl« in the rsijjn oi King George III. 286 THE QUEENE MOTHER. INCORPORATION OF THE ROYAL SOCIETY. 2 July. We hunted and kill'd a buck in the park, Mr. Howard in- viting most ol the gentlemen of the country neere him. 3. My wife met me at Woodcott whither Mr. Howard accompanied me to see my son John, who had ben much brought up amongst Mr. Howard's children at Arundel House, 'til for feare of their perverting him in the Catholic rehgion, I was forced to take him home. 8. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Dutchesse of Ormond, going then into Ireland with extraordinary retinue. 13. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, where I had discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Governor of Barbados, concerning divers particulars of that colonic. 28. His Majesty going to sea to m.eet the Queene Mother, now coming againe for England, met with such ill weather as greately en- danger'd him. I went to Greenewich, to wait on the Queene now landed. 30. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable Uses, and particularly to enquire how the Citty had dispos'd of the revenues of Gressham College, and why the salaries of the professors there were no better improv'd. I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords of the Council, but little was the progresse we could make. 31. I sate with the Commissioners about reforming the buildings and streetes of London, and we ordered the paving of the way from St. James's North, which was a quagmire, and also of the Hay-market about Piqudillo [Piccadilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and published for the better keeping the streetes cleane. I Aug. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, Edward, Bernard, Philip' now the Queens Almoner, (all brothers of the Duke of Norfolk still in Italy) came with a greate traine and din'd with me ; Mr. H. Howard leaving with me his eldest and youngest sons Henry and Thomas for three or four days, my son John having ben sometime bred up in their father's house. 4. Came to see me the old Countesse of Devonshire,'' with that excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her sonn, from Rowhampton. 5. To London, and next day to Hampton Court about my purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawenow Ambassador to Portugal. 13. Our Charter being now passed under the broad scale, constitu- ting us a Corporation under the name of The Royal Society for the improvement of naturall knowledge by experiment, was this day read, and was all that was done this afternoone, being very large. 14. 1 sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the Lord Maior and others of the Mercers Company being summon'd to answer some . Since Cardinal at Rome. * Christian Countess of Devonshire. She was of considerable celebrity for her devotion, hospitality, her great care in the management of her son's affairs, and as a patroness 01 the wits of the age who frequently met at her house : also for her loyalty and correspondence to promote the Restoration. King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with the Vuecn Mother and the Royal Family. There is a life of this lady written by Mr. Pomfrct THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 287 complaints of the professors grounded on a clause in the will of Sir Thomas Gressham the founder. This afternoone the Queene Mother with the Earle of St. Alban s and many greate ladies and persons, was pleas'd to honor my poore villa with her presence, and to accept of a collation. She was exceedingly pleas'd and stay'd till very late in the evening. 1 5. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earle of Clarendon) and his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, to visit me. They were likewise collation'd with us, and were very merry. They had all ben our old acquaintance in exile, and indeed this greate person had ever ben my friend. His sonn Lord Cornebery was here too. 17 Aug. Being the Sonday when the Common Prayer Booke re- formed and ordered to be used for the future, was appointed to be read, and the solemn League and Covenant to be abjured by all the incum- oents of England under penalty of looseing their livings ; our Vicar read it this morning. 20. There were strong guards in the City this day, apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian Ministers not conforming. I dined with the Vice Chamberlaine, and then went to see the Queene Mother, who was pleas'd to give me many thanks for the entertainment she receiv'd at my house, when she recounted to me many observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs she formerly had. 21. I was admitted and then sworneoneof the Council of the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty's original grant to be of this Council for the regulation of the Society, and making laws and statutes conducible to its establishment and progresse, for which we now set apart every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. Lord Visct. Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) was also by his Majesty our Founder nominated our first President. The King gave us the armes of England to be borne in a canton in our armes, and sent us a mace of silver gilt of the same fashion and bigness as those carried before his Majesty, to be borne before our President on meeting dales. It was brought by Sir G. Taibot, Master of his Majestys Jewel-house. 22. I din'd with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robt. Morray, and then went to consult about a new-model'd ship at Lambeth, the intention being to reduce that art to as certaine a method as any other part of architecture. 23 Aug. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph that ever floated on the Thames;- considering the innumerable boates and vessells, dress'd and adorn'd with all imaginable pomp, but above all the thrones, arches, pageants and other representations, stately barges 1 An account of this solemnity was published in ' Aqua Triumphalis ' ; being a true relation of the honourable City of London entertaining ilieir sacred Majesties upon the River cf Thames, and welcomir.g them from Hampton Court to Whitehall, &c. Engraved by Joho Viitham,' folioy 1662. 288 AQUATIC TRIUMPH. COUNCIL OF ROVAL SOCIETY AT COURT. of the Loi'd Maior and Companies, with various inventions, musiq and peales of ordnance both from the vessels and the shore, going to meete and conduct the new Queene from Hampton Court to White-hall, at the first time of her coming to towne. In my opinion it far exceeded all the Venetian Bucentoras, &c. on the Ascension, when they go to espouse the Adriatic. His Majestie and the Queene came in an antiq-shap'd open vessel!, cover'd with a state or canopy of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreath'd with flowers, festoons, and garlands. 1 was in our new-built vessell, sailing amongst them. 29. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society v/ent in a body to White-hall to acknowledge his Majestys royal grace in granting our charter, and vouchsafing to be himselfe our Founder ; when the Presi- dent made an eloquent speech, to whichhis Majesty gave a gracious reply, and we all kiss'd his hand. Next day we went in like manner with our addresse to my Lo. Chancellor, who had much promoted our Patent ; he receiv'd us with extraordinary favour. In the evening I went to the Queene Mother's Court, and had much discourse with her. I Sept. Being invited by Lo. Berkley, I went to Durdans, Epsom, where din'd his Majestie, the Queene, Duke, Dutchesse, Prince Rupert, Prince Edward, and aboundance of Noblemen. I went after dinner to visit my brother of Woodcot, my sister having ben deliver'd of a son a little before, but who had now ben two days dead. 4 Sept. Commission for charitable uses, my Lord Maior and Alder- men being againe summon'd, and the improvements of Sir Tho. Gressham's estate examin'd. There were present the Bp. of London, the Lord Chief Justice, and the King's Attorney. 6. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter King at Armes, Mr. Shngsby, Master of the Mint, and severall others. 17. We now resolv'd that the armes of the Society should be, a field Argent, with a canton of the armes of England ; the supporters two talbots Argent ; Crest, an eagle Or holding a shield with the like armes of England, viz. 3 lions. The words Nullius i7t verba. It was pre- sented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders given to Garter King at Armes, to passe the diploma of their office for it. 20. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my '-wn concerns, and afterwards accompanied him to Mons. Febure, his chymist, (and who had formerly ben my master in Paris) to see his accurate prepara- tion for the composing Sir Walter Raleigh's rare cordial ; he made a learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each ingredient. 27. Came to visit me Sir Geo. Savell,^ grandson to the learned Sir Hen. Savell, who published St. Chrysostome. Sir Geo. was a witty gentleman, if not a little too prompt and daring. 3 Oct I was invited to the Colledge cf Physitians, where Dr. 1 Aftcru'ard* tKe celebrated Marquis oi Halifax. IHE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 289 Meret, a learned man and Library Keeper, shevv'd me the Library, Theater for Anatomie, and divers natural curiosities ; the statue and epigraph under it of that renowned physitian Dr. Har\'ey, discoverer of the circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir Wm. Paddy's, and other pictures of men famous in their faculty. Visited Mr. Wright, a Scotsman, who had liv'd long at Rome and was esteem'd a good painter. The pictures of the Judges at Guild-hall are of his hand, and so are some pieces in White-hall, as the roofe in his Majestys old bed-chamber, being Astrea, the St. Catherine, and a chimney-piece in the Queen's privy-chamber ; but his best, in my opinion, is Lacy the famous Roscius or comedian, whom he has painted in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian minister, and a Scotch highlander in his plaid. It is in his Majestys dining-room at Windsor ; He had at his house an excellent collection, especialy that small piece of Corregio, Scotus of de la Alarca, a designe of Paulo, and above all those mines of Polydore, with some good achates and medaiHes, espe- cialy a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. 1 5. I this day deliver'd my Discourse concerning Forest Trees to the Society, upon occasion of certain queries sent to us by the Commissioners of his Majesty's Navy, being the first booke that was printed by order of the Society, and by their Printer, since it was a Corporation. 16. I saw ' Volpone' acted at Court before their Majesties. 21. To the Qucene Mother's Court, where her Majesty related to us divers passages of her escapes during the Rebellion and the Warrs in England. 28 Oct. To Court in the evening, where the Queene Mother, the Qucene Consort, and his Majesty, being ad vertis'fi of some disturbance, forbore to go to the Lord Maior's shew and fe?.-st appointed next day, the new Queene not having yet seen that triumph. 29. Was my Lo. Maior's' shew, with a number of sumptuous pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing in an house in Cheape- side against the place prepar d for their Majesties. The Prince and hoire of Denmark was there, but not our King. There were also the maids of honor. I went to court this evening, and bad much discourse with Dr. Basiers,' one of his Majesty's chaplain's, the greate traveller, who shevv'd me the syngraphs and original subscriptions of divers Eastern Patriarchs and Asian Churches to our Confession. 4 Nov. I was invited to the wedding of the daughter of Sir Geo. Carterat (the Treasurer of the Navy and King's Vice-Chamberlain), married to Sir N. Slaning, Kt. of the Bath ; by the Bishop of London •n the Savoy Chapell ; after which was an extraordinary feast. 5. The Council of the R. Society met to amend the Statutes, and ' Sir John Robinson, Kr.t. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on th.is occasion was called ' London's Triumph, at the Charge of the Clothworkers Company. By John latham. * Isaac Basii-e. See account of him in Wood's " Athenae." aqo PUBLICATION OF MY SILVA. FEASTED AT WESTMINSTER. dined together : afterwards meeting at Gressham College, where was a discourse suggested by me concerning planting his Majestys Forest of Deane with oake, now so much exhausted of the choicest ship-timber in the world. 20. Dined with the Comptroller Sir Hugh Pollard; aftenvards saw * The Young Admiral ' ' acted before the King. 21. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby giving me greate thanks for my Sylva. 27. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian Ambassador, whom his Majesty order'd to be received with much state, the Emperor not only having ben kind to his Majesty in his distress, but banishing all commerce with our Nation during the Rebellion. First the Citty Companies and Train'd Bands were all in their sta- tions: his Majesty's Army and Guards in greate order. His Excellency came in a very rich coach, with some of his chiefe attendants ; many of the rest on horseback, clad in their vests after the Eastern manner, rich furrs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawkes, furrs, teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent shew. I din'd with the Master of the Mint, where was old Sir Ralph Free- man 2 ; passing my evening at the Queene Mother's Court, at night saw iicted ' The Committee,' a ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic Lacy acted the Irish Footeman to admiration. 30. St Andrews day. Invited by the Deane of Westminster ' to his consecration dinner and ceremony, on his being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Bolton preach'd in the Abby Church ; then foUow'd the consecration by the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Salisbury, &c. After this was one of the most plentifuU and magnifi- cent dinners that in my life I ever saw ; it cost neere ;^.6oo as I was inform'd. Here were the Judges, Nobility, Clergy, and Gentlemen in- numerable, this Bishop being universally belov'd for his sweete and gentle disposition. He was author of those Characters which go under the name of Blount ^ He translated his late Majesty's Icon into Latine, was Clearke of his Closet, Chaplaine, Deane of Westminster, and yet a most humble, meeke, but cbeerfull man, an excellent scholar, ^nd rare preacher. I had the honour to be loved by him. He married ii.c at Paris, during his Majesties and the Churches exile. When I tooke leave of him he brought me to the Cloysters in his episcopal habit. I then went to the evening prayers at White-hall, where I pass'd that evening. I Dec Having seen the strange and wonderful dexterity of the sliders on the new Canal in St. James's Park, perform'd before their Majesties by divers gentlemen and others with Scheets after the man- 1 A TragJ-Comedy by James Shirley. a Qf Bctchworth in Surrey. • Ur. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury. » 1 hese Characters were several times printed, and arr still read with some interest. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 291 ner of the Hollanders, with what swiftnesse they passe, how suddainly they stop in full carriere upon the ice, I went home by water, but not without exceeding difficultie, the Thames being frozen, greate flakes of ice incompassing our boate. 17. I saw acted before the King 'The Law against Lovers/^ 21. One of his Majesty's Chaplains preach'd, after which, in- stead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind musiq accompanying the organ, was introduced a concert of 24 violins betweene every pause, after the French fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern or play- house than a church. This was the first time of change, and now we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ, that instrument quite left off in which the English were so skillfull. I din'd at Mr. Povey's, where I talk'd with Cromer, a greate musician. 23. I went with Sir George Tuke to hear the Comedians con and repeate his new comedy, ' The Adventures of 5 Hours,' a play whose plot was taken out of the famous Spanish poet Calderon. 27. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. 29. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador which was with extraordinary state, his retinue being numerous, all clad in vests of severall colours, with buskins after the Eastern manner ; their caps of furr ; tunicks richly embrodred with gold and pearls made a glorious shew. The King being seated under a canopie in the Banquetting house, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the Ambassador in a grave march, holding up his master s letters of credence in a crimson taffeta scarfe before his forehead. The Ambassador then deliver'd it with a profound reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary of State ; it was written in a long and lofty style. Then came in the present, borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting of mantles and other large pieces lined with sable, black fox and ermine ; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of gold and velvet ; hawks, such as they sayd never came the like ; horses said to be Persian ; bowes and arrows, &c. These borne by so long a traine rendered it very extraordinary. Wind musiq play'd all the while in the galleries above. This finish'd, the Ambassa- dor was convey'd by the Master of the Ceremonies to York House, where he was treated with a banquet which cost ^200 as I was assur'd.* ' A Tragi-Comedy by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from Shakespeare 'i 'Measure for Measure,' and * Much Ado about Nothing,' blended together. 2The Czar of Muscovy sent an Embassador to compliment K. Cha. II. on his Restoration. The K. sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Embassador to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment of the antient privileges of the English Merchants at Archangel, which had ben taken away by the Czar, who abhorring the murder of the K's. father accused them as favorers of it. But by the means of the Czar's ministers, his lordship was very ill received, and met with what he deemed affronts, and had no success as to his demands, so that at coming away he refused the presents sent him by the Czar. The Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain ol Lord Carlisle's conduct, but his lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King told the Embassador he saw no reason to condemn his lordship's conduQt.' Relation of this Erabassw Vy Gk M. authenticated by Lord Carlisle, printed 1669. BALLS AT COURT. THE KING DAUNCES. GREAT MASQ. 1663. 7 Jan. At night I saw the Ball, in which his Majesty daunc'd with several great ladys. 8. I went to see my kinsman Sir Geo. Tuke's comedy acted at the Duke's Theater, which took so universally that it was acted for some weekes every day, and 'twas believ'd it would be worth to the Come- dians 4 or ^.500. The plot was incomparable, but the language was stiffe and formal. 10. I saw a Ball againe at Court, daunc'd by the King, the Duke, and Ladies in great pompe. 21. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, Sir Charles Berke- ley's, where were the Earlc of Oxford, Lcrd Bellassis, Lord Gerard, Sir Andrew Scroope, Sir William Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and others. 5 Feb. I saw * The Wild Gallant,' a comedy ' ; and was at the greate Ball at Court, where his Majesty, the Queene, &:c. daunc'd. 6. Dined at my Lord Maior's, Sir Jo. Robinson, Lieutenant of the Tower. 15. This night some villains brake into my house and study below, and robbed me to the value of £.60 in plate, money, and goods. This being the third time I have ben thus plundered. 26 Mar. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where was a greate case pleaded by his Majesty's Counsel ; he having built a wall over a water- course, denied the jurisdiction of the Court. The verdict went for the Plaintiff [i. e. against the King]. 30 April. Came his Majesty to honor my poore villa with his pre- sence, viewing the gardens and even every roome of the house, and was pleas'd to take a small refreshment. There were with him the Duke of Richmond, Earl of St. Albans, Lord Lauderdale, and several other persons of quahty. 14 May. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence went to Barnes, to visite my excellent and ingenious friend Abraham Cowley. 17. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to whom I had ben kind and assisted in his exile, but which he httle remember'd in his greatnesse. 29. Dr. Creighton preach'd his extravagant Sermon at St. Marga- ret's, before the Howse of Commons. 30. This morning was pass'd my Lease of Sayes Court from the Crown, for the finishing of which I had ben oblig'd to make frequent journies to London. I return'd this evening, having seenethe Russian Ambassador take leave of their Majesties with greate solemnity. 2 July. I saw the greate masq at Court, and lay that night at Arundel-house. 4. I saw his Majesty's guards, being of horse and foote 4000, led by 1 By Mr. Drydcn. It did not succeed on its first representation, but was considerably altered to the form in which it now ax»Dear». THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, the GeriCral the Duke of Albemarle in extraordinary equipage and gal- lantry, consisting of gentlemen of quality and veteran souldiers, excel- lently clad, mounted and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their Majesties in Hide Park, where the old Earle of Cleveland trail'd a pike and led the right-hand file in a foote company commanded by the Lord Went worth his son, a worthy spectacle and example, being both of them old and valiant souldiers. This was to shew the French Am- bassador, Monsieur Comminges ; there being a greate assembly of coaches, &c. in the park. 7. Dined at the Comptroller's ; after dinner we met at the Commis- sion about the streetes, and to regulate hackney coaches, also to make up our accompts to passe the Exchequer. 16. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of the Navy, had now married his daughter Caroline to Sir Thomas Scot, of Scottshall, in Kent. This gent: was thought to be the sonn of Prince Rupert. 2 Aug. This evening I accompanied Mr. Treasurer and Vice Cham- berlain Carteret to his lately-married son-in-law's Sir Tho. Scot, to Scottshall. We tooke barge as far as Gravesend, thence by post to Rochester, whence in coacnes and 6 horses to Scottshall ; a right noble seate, uniformely built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a park well stor'd, the land fat and good. We were exceedingly feasted by the young knight, and in his pretty chapell heard an excellent sermon by his chaplaine. In the afternoone preach'd the learned Sir Norton Knatchbull (who has a noble seate hard by, and a plantation of stately fir-trees). In the church-yard of the parish church I measur'd an over- grown yew-tree that was 18 of my paces in compasse, out of some branches of which, tome off by the winds, were saw'd goodly planks. 10. We return'd by Sir Norton's, whose house is likewise in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person, and learned critic, especialy in Greek and Hebrew. Passing by Chatham we saw his Majesties Royal Navy, and din'd at Commissioner Pett's, master-builder there, who shewed me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging to his art. He is esteem'd for the most skilfull ship-builder in the world He hath a pretty garden and banquetting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, resembling some villas about Rome. After a greate feaste we rod post to Graves-end, and sending the coach to London, came by barge to Sayes Court that night. 18. To London to see my Lo. Chancellor, where I had discourse with my Lo. Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Wmchester, who injoyned me to write to Dr. Pierce, President of Magd. Coll. Oxon. about a letter sent him by Dr. GofT, a Romish Oratorian, concernmg an answer to Dean Cressy's late book' 1 Of D'. Pierce, who was al is hie ' Fasti.' He appears to 294 TABLES AT COURT. THE MINT. SHELDON, ABP. OF CANIERBURY. m I din'd at the Comptroller's [of the Household] with the Earle of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham ; it was said it should be the last of the public diets or tables at Court, it being determined to put down the old hospitality, at which was great murmuring, considering his Ma- jesties vast revenue and the plenty of the Nation. Hence I went to sit in a Committee to consider about the regulation of the Mint at the Tower, in which some small progresse was made. 27 Aug. Din'd at Sir Ph. Warwick's, Secretary to my Lo. Trea- surer, who shew'd me the accompts and other private matters relating to the revenue. Thence to the Commissioners of the Mint, particularly about coynage, and bringing his Majestys rate from 15 to 10 shilhngs for every pound weight of gold. 31. 1 was invited to the Translation of Dr. Sheldon, Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the ce emonie performed at Lambeth. First went his grace's mace-bearir, steward, treasurer, comptroller, all in their gownes and with white staves ; next the Bishops in their habites, eight in number ; Dr. Sweate, Deane of the Arches, Dr. Exton Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers Advocates in scarlet. After divine ser- vice in the chapel, perform'd with musiq extraordinary. Dr. French and Dr. Stradling (his grace's chaplaines) saied prayers. The Archbishop in a private roome looking into the Chapel, the Bishops who were Commissioners went up to a table plac'd before the altar, and sat round it in chaires- Then Dr. Chaworth presented the commission under the broad seale to the Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. After which the Vicar-general went to the vestry, and brought his Grace into the Chapell, his other officers marching before. He being presented to the Commissioners was seated in a greate arm chaire at one end of the table, when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and procla- mation was three times made at the Chapell dore, which was then set open for any to enter and give their exceptions, if any they had. This don, we all went to dinner in the greate hall to a mighty feast. There were present all the nobility in towne, the Lord Maior of London, She- riffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lo. Archbishop did in particular most civily welcome me. So going to visite my Lady Needham who liv'd at Lambeth, I went over to London. 10 Sept. I din'd with Mr. Treasurer of the Navy, where sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had much discourse about bookes and authors, he being a learned man, and had a good collection. 24 Oct. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my sonns preceptor : this bury. Dean Cressy was bred in the Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor and Dean of Leiglilin in Ireland, in the time of King Charles L but, from the troubles of that Ume^had no ben<:iii from either ; he afterwards became a Papist. The book here referred to IS ' Exomologetis,' or the motives of his conversion. Wood's Fasti rHE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 295 gentleman was nephew to Milton, who wrote against Salmasius's * Defensio/ but was not at all infected with his principles, tho' he was brought up by him. 5 Nov. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's Chaplain, preached at Westminster Abby an excellent discourse concerning obedience to Magistrates, against the Pontificians and Sectaries. I afterwards dined at Sir Ph. Warwick's, where was much company. 6. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off from being Sheriff of Surrey, in which he succeeded. 30. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the choice of new officers, according to the tenor of our Patent and Institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our patron, each fellow wore a St. Andrew's Crosse of ribbon on the crowne of his hatt. After the election we din'd together, his Majesty sending us venison. 16 Dec. To our Society where Mr. P. Balle, our treasurer at the late election, presented the Society with an iron chest, with 3 locks, and in it ^100. as a gift. 18. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majestys bedchamber at White- hall. 1664, 2 Jan. To Barne Elmes, to see Abraham Cowley after his sicknesse ; and returned that evening to London. 4 Feb. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's ; thence to Court, where I had discourse with the King about an invention of Glasse Granados, and severall other subjects, 5. I saw 'The Indian Oueene'i acted, a tragedie well written, so beautified with rich scenes as the like had never ben scene here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere on a mercenary theater. 16. I presented my * Sylva ' to the Society ; and next day to his Majestie, to whom it was dedicated ; also to the Lord Treasurer, and the Lord Chancell6r. 24. My Lord Geo. Berkeley of Durdens, and Sir Samuel Tuke, came to visite me. We went on board Sir Wilham Petty's double bottom'd vessell, and so to London. 26. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to Court, where I had greate thanks for my ' Sylva,' and long discourse with the King of divers particulars. 2 March. Went to London, to distribute some of my books amongst my friends. . , 4. Came to dine with me the Earle of Lauderdale, his Majesties greate favorite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the Earl of Tividale ; my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President of the R. Society ; Dr Wilkins, Deane of Rippon, Sir Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Royal Society. ^ , , . c This Spring I planted the Home-field and West-field about Sayes ' Written by Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Drydea 296 PLANTING AT SAVES COURT. TREASURES OF THE JESUITS. Court v/ith elmes, being the same yeare that the elmes were planted by his Majesty in Greenewich Park. 9. I went to the Tower, to sit in Commissior about regulating the Mint ; and now it was that the fine new miU'd coin both of white money and guineas was establish'd. 26. It pleas'd God to lake away my sonn Richard, being now a moneth old, yet without any sicknesse of danger perceivably, being to all appearance a most likely child ; we suspected much the nurse had overlayne him ; to our extreame sorrow, being now againe reduced to one ; but God's will be done ! 29. After evening prayers was my child buried neere the rest of his brothers — my very deare Children. 27 April. Saw a facetious Comedy called ' Love in a Tub ; ' and supped at Mr. Secretary Bennet's. 3 May. Came the Earle of Kent my kindsman, and his Lady, to visite us. 5. Went with some company a journey of pleasur,. on the water in barge with musick, and at Mortlack had a greate banquet, returning late. The occasion was, Sir Rob. Carr now courting Mrs. Bennet, sister to the Secretary of State. 6. Went to see Mr. WVighte the painter's collection of rare shells, &c. 8 June. Went to our Society, to which his Majestie had sent that wondcrfull home of the fish which struck a dangerous hole in the keel of a Ship in the India Sea, which being broke off with the violence of the fish and left in the timber, preserved it from foundering. 9. Sir Samuel Tuke ^ being this morning married to a lady, kins- woman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour,by the Queenes Lord Almoner L. Aubignie in St. James's Chapell, solemniz'd his wedding-night at my house with much companie. 22. One Tomson a Jesuite shew'd me such a collection of rarities, sent from the Jesuites of Japan and China to their Order at Paris, as a present to be reserv'd in their repository, but brought to London by the East India ships for them, as in my life I had not scene. The cheife things were, large rhinoceros's horns ; glorious vests wrought and em- brodered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours, that for splendour and vividness we have nothing in Europe that approches it ; a girdle studded with achats and rubies of greate value and size ; knives of so keene an edge as one could not touch them, nor was the mettal of our colour, but more pale and livid ; fanns like those our ladies use, but much larger, and with long handles curiously carved and filled with Chinese characters ; a sort of paper very broad, thin and fine like abortive parchment and exquisitely polished, of an amber yellow, ex- ceeding glorious and pretty to loohi on, and seeming to be like that which my Lo- Venilame describes in his 'Nova Atlantis;' several ' A Roman Catholic THE DIARY OF JOHN EVFXYN. 297 Other sorts of paper, some written, others printed ; prints of landskips, their idols, saints, pagods, of most ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to which they paid devotion ; pictures of men and countries rarely painted on a sort of gum'd calico transparent as glasse ; flowers, trees, beasts, birds, &c. excellently wrought in a kind of sieve silk very naturall ; divers drougs that our drouggists and physitians could make nothing of, especialy one which the Jesuite call'd Lac Tygridis, it look'd like a fungus, but was weighty like metall, yet was a concretion or coagulation of some other matter; several booke MSS. ; a grammar of the language writen in Spanish ; with in- numerable other rarities. I July. Went to see Mr. Povey's^ elegant house in Lincoln's-inn- fields, where the perspective in his court, painted by Streeter, is indeede excellent, with the vasas in imitation of porphyrie, and fountains ; the inlaying of his closet ; above all, his pretty cellar and the ranging of his wine bottles. 7. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur Slingsby's lottery a desperate debt owing me long since in Paris. 14. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, now going for Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley ; thence to Eltham, to see Sir John Shaw's new house now building ; the place is pleasant if not too wett, but the house not well contrived, especialy the roofe and roomes too low pitch'd, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ; the orangerie and aviarie handsome, & a very large plantation about it. 19. To London to see the event of the lottery which his Majesty had permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up for one day in the Banqueting House at White-hall. I gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King, Oueene-consort and Queene-mother for neere 30 lotts ; which was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the master of it, who was, in truth, a meef shark. 21. I din'd with my L. Treasurer at Southampton House, where his Lordship used me with singular humanitie. I went in the afternoonc to Chelsey to waite on the Duke of Ormond, and returned to London. 28. Came to see me old Monsieur Zulichem, Secretary to the Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, now neere 80 yeares of age, a rare Latinist, with Monsieur Oudart. 3 Aug. To London ; a concert of excellent musitians, especialy one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist who invented a mathematical way of composure very extraordinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but without much harmonic. 8. Came the sad and unexpected newes of the death of La4y Cot- ton, wife to my brother George, a most excellent lady. I A Mr. Povey lived at Bellsize House in Hamps^cad in 1718, who was a coal merchant, though not trained to the business ; he wrote many books, some discovermg indirect practices in the coal trade, in eovernment offices, &c. 29? DEATH OF MY SISTER-IN-LAW. LORD CLARENDON. 9. Went with my brother Richard to Wotton, to visite & coniforte my disconsolate brother ; and on the 13th saw my friend Mr. Charles Howard at Dipden neere Dorking. 16. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charleton, which he purchased of my excellent friend Sir Henry Newton, now nobly furnish'd. 22. I went from London to Wotton to assist at the funeral of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in our dormitorie there, she being put up in lead. Dr. Owen made a profitable and pathetic dis- course, concluding with an eulogie of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It was a very solemn funerall, with about 50 mourners. I came back next day with my wife to London. 2 September. Came Sir Constantine Hugens, Dr. Zulichem, Sir Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, and other friends, to spend the day with us. 5 Oct. To our Society. There was brought a new invented instru- ment of musiq, being a harpsichord with gut strings, sounding like a concert of viols with an organ, made vocal by a wheele, and a zone of parchment that rubb'd horizontaly against the strings. 6. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr. Harvey, in the Anatomie Theater in the Coll. of Physitians, after which I was invited by Dr. Alston the President to a magnificent feast. 7. I din'd at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters of Chancery, in greate St. Bartholomews ; passing the evening at White-hall with the Queene, &c. 8. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in Germany, came to visite me ; he was a wise and learned gentleman, and, as he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius the Enclyclopjedir.t. 15. Din'd at the Lo. Chancellors, where was the Duke of Ormond, Earle of Cork, & Bp. of Winchester. After dinner my Lord Chan- cellor and his lady carried me in their coach to see their palace' (for he now liv'd at Worcester House in the Strand) building at the upper end of St. James's Streete, and to project the garden. In the evening I presented him with my booke of Architecture, as before I had don to his Majesty and the Queene Mother. His Lordship caus'd me to stay with him in his bed-chamber, discoursing of severall matters very late, even til he was going into his bed. 17. I went with my Lord Visct. Corneburyto Cornebury in Oxford- shire, to assist him in the planting of the park, and bcare him company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, in a coach with 6 horses ; din'd at Uxbridge, lay at Wicckam (Wycombe). 18. At Oxford. Went thro' Woodstock, where we beheld the de- ' There is a large View of it engraved. The Cliancellor in the Continuation of his Life laments the having built it, on account of the great cost, and the unpopularity wliich iu ni=-' n.ftrrnce created. He had litUe enjojr'^t of it, aa wiU be seen hereafter. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. struction of that royal seate and park by the late rebels, and ariv'd that evening at Cornebury, an house lately bui^t by the Earle of Denbigh in the middle of a sweete park, wall'd with a dry wall. The house is of excellent freestone abounding in that part, a stone that is fine, but never sweats or casts any damp ; 'tis of ample dimensions, has goodly cellars, the paving of the hall admirable for its close laying. We design'd an handsome chapell that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had the stables, which indeede are very faire, having set out the walkes in the park and gardens. The lodge is a prety solitude, and the ponds very convenient ; the parke well stor'd. 20. Hence we went to see the famous wells, natural and artificial grotts and fountaines, call'd Bushells Wells at Enstone.' This Bushell had ben secretary to my Lo. Verulam. It is an extraordinary solitude. There he had two mummies ; a grott where he lay in a hammock like an Indian. Hence we went to Dichley, an ancient seate of the Lees, now Sir Hen. Lee's ; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a pretty bowling greene. My Lady gave us an extraordinary dinner. This gentleman's mother was Countesse of Rochester, who was also there, and Sir Walter Saint John. There were some pictures of their ancestors not ill painted ; the great grand-father had been Knight of the Garter : there v/as the picture of a Pope and our Saviour's head. So we return'd to Cornbury. 24. We din'd at Sir Tim. Tyrill's at Shotover. This gentleman married the daughter and heyre of Dr. James Usher, Abp. of Armagh, that learned Prelate. There is here in the grove a fountaine of the coldest water I ever felt, and very cleere. His plantation of oakes, &c. is very commendable. We went in the evening to Oxford, lay at Dr. Hide's, Principal of Magdalen Hall (related to the Lo. Chancellor) brother to the Lord Ch. Justice, and that Sir Hen. Hide who lost his head for his loyalty. We were handsomly entertain'd two dayes. The Vice Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Deane of Christ Church, the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden ofQueenes, and severall heads of houses, came to visite Lord Cornebury (his father being now Chancellor of the University), and next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visite Mr. Boyle (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis, and Dr. Chris- topher Wren in the Tower of the Scholes, with an inverted tube or telescope, observing the discus of the Sunn for the passing of Mercury that day before it, but the latitude was so great that nothing appeared ; so we went to see the rarities in the Library, where the keepers shewed me my name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of some medails, and pictures of the muscular parts of a man's body. Thence to the new Theater, now building at an exceeding and royal expence by the Lo. Abp. of Canterbury [Sheldon], to keepe the Acts in for the ' Bushell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and in Plott's OxfordsJiire is an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c. belonging to it. 300 THE KING. APPOINTED COMMISSIONER TO LOOK TO CAPTIVES. future, till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had ben newly laied and the whole design'd by that incomparable genius my worthy friend Dr. Christopher Wren, who shewed me the model, not disdaining my advice in some particulars. Thence to see the picture on the wall over the Akar at All Soules, being the largest piece of fresco painting (or rather in imitation of it, for it is in oil of turpentine) in England, not ill design'd by the hand of one Fuller ; yet I feare it will not hold long. It seems too full of nakeds for a chapell. Thence to New College, and the painting of Magdalen Chapel, which is on blew cloth in chiaro osncro, by one Greenborow, being a Ccena Domini, and a Last Judgment on the wall by Fuller, as is the other, but somewhat varied. Next to Wadham, and the Physick Garden, where were two large locust trees, and as many platana, and some rare plants under the culture of old Bobart.^ 26. We came back to Beaconsfield ; next day to London, where we din'd at the Lord Chancellor's with my Lord Bellasis. 27. Being casually in the privy gallery at White-hall, his Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noblemen for my book of Ar- chitecture, and againe for my * Sylva,' saying they were the best design'd and uscfull for the matter and subject, the best printed and design'd (meaning the taille donees of the Parallel of Architecture) that he had scene. He then caus'd me to follow him alone to one of the windows, and ask'd me if I had any paper about me unwritten, and a crayon ; I presented him with both, and then laying it on the window- stool, he with his own hands design'd to me the plot for the future building of White-hall, together with the roomes of state, and other particulars. After this he talk'd with me of severall matters, and asking my advice of many particulars, in which I find his Majesty had an extraordinary talent becoming a magnificent prince. The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to be made to take care of such Sick and Wounded and Prisoners of war as might be expected upon occasion of a succeeding war and action at sea, war being already declar'd against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleas'd to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen. Parliament men, vi^. Sir Wm. Doily Knt. and Bart. Sir Tho. Clifford,' and Bullein Rheymes Esq. ; with a salary ^.1200 a year amongst us, besides extra- X Jacob Eobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the Physic Garden at Oxford. There is a fine print of him after Loggan by Burghers, dated 1675. Also a small whole length in the frontispiece of Vertumnus, a poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a beard. One of this family was bred up at College in Oxford, but quitted his studies for the profession of the whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own property) for many years with great credit. In 1813 he broke his leg by an accident: and in 1814, from the respect he had acquired by his good conduct, he was appointed by the University CO the place of one of the Esquire Beadles. • Since Lord Trp.:>-<;urcr of KnaUnd. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 301 ordinaries for our care and attention in time of station, each of us being appointed to a particular district, mine falling out to be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute officers, physitians, chirurgeons, pro- vost marshals, and to dispose of halfe of the hospitals thro' England. After the Council we kiss'd his Majesty's hand. At this Council I heard Mr. Solicitor Finch ' plead most elegantly for the Merchants trading to the Canaries, praying for a new Charter. 29. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and land of the Lord Maior I I din'd at Guild-hall at the upper table, plac'd next to Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of State, opposite to my Lo. Chancellor and the Duke of Buckingham who sate betweene Monsieur Comminges the French Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond and Albemarle, Earl of Manchester Lord Chamberlaine, and the rest of the great Officers of State. My Lord Maior came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden goblett his Majesty's health, then the French King's as a compliment to the Ambassador ; then we return'd my Lo. Maior's health, the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheere was not to be imagined for the plenty and raritie, with an infinite number of persons at the rest of the tables in that ample hall. The feast was said to cost ^.1000. I slipt away in the crowd, and came home late. 31. I was this day 44 yeares of age, for which I returned thanks to Almighty God, begging his mercyfull protection for the yeare to come. 2 November. Her Majesty the Queene Mother came crosse the gallerie in White-hall to give me thanks for my book of Architecture which I had presented to her, with a compliment that I did by no means deserve. 16. We chose our Treasurer, Clearks, and Messengers, and ap- pointed our seal which I order'd should be the good Samaritan, with this motto, Fac si7niliter. Painters Hall was lent us to meete in. In the greate roome were divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had ben given to the Company by several of the Wardens and Masters of the Company. 23. Our Statutes now finished, were read before a full assembly of the Royall Society. 24. His Majesty was pleas'd to tell me what the conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as after I found, was the heads of the speech he made at the re-convention of the Parliament, which now began to meet. 2 Dec. We delivered the Privy Council's letters to the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital in Southwark, that a moiety of the house should be reserved for such sick and wounded as should from time to time be sent from the Fleete during the war. This being deliver'd at thei' ' Afterwards Earl of Nottingham, and Lord Chancellor. 2 Sir John Lawrence. Tt;e pageant for the day was called ' London's Triumph, prepared at the cost of the Hab«;r dashers Company, and written by Joho Tatham, Gent." 302 LAUNCH OF THE EXPERIMENT. THE MYSIERIES OF JESUITISM. Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors of that Hospital, invited us to a greate feaste in Fishmongers Hall. 20. To London our last sitting, taking order for our personal visiting our severall districts. I dined at Capt. Cock's (our Treasurer), which that most ingenious gent. Matthew Wren, scan to the Bp. of Ely, and Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State. 22. I went to the launching of a new ship of two bottomes, invented by Sir Wm. Petty, on which were various opinions ; his Majesty being present gave her the name of The Experiment ; so I returned home, where I found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with me. This yeare I planted the lower grove next the pond at Sayes Court. It was now exceeding cold and a hard long frosty season, and the Comef was very visible. 28. Some of my poore neighbours dined with me, and others of my tennants, according to my annual costome. 31. Set my affaires in order, gave God praise for his mercys the past yeare, and prepared for the reception of the Holy Sacrament, which I partook of the next day after hearing our Minister on the 4lh Galatians 4. 5. of the Mysterie of Our Blessed Saviours Incarnation. 1665. 2 Jan. This day was publish'd by me that part of- 'The I In a letter to Lord Cornbury 2 Jan. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, * I came to present your Lordship with your owne booke [in the margin is written, ' The other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism translated and publish'd by me']: I left it with my Lord your father, because I would not suffer it to be publiq till he had first scene it, who, on your Lordship's score, has so just a title to it. The particulars which you will find added after the 4th letter are extracted out of severall curious papers and passages lying by me, which for being very apposite to the controversy, I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to have never ben produced.' — In another letter to Lord Cornbury, 9 Feb. 1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the Translation by command of his Lordship and of his father the Lord Chancellor. The Authors of the ' Biographia Britannica' speak of "The Mystery of Jesuitisme" as one volume ; but in the library at Wotton there are three, in duodecimo, with the following title* and contents : the second in order is that translated by Mr. Evelyn. 1. Les Provinclales, or, The Mystery of Jesuitisme, discovered in certain Letters written upon occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between the Jansenists and the Molinists, displaying the perr.icious Maxims of the late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with large additional. Sicut Serpentes. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold by Robert Clavell at the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's Church in St. Paul's Churchyard, 1658.— pp. 360. Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the names of some of the most eminent Casuists. 2. Musr/pioK -rrir 'Ai om'ar. That is, Another Part of the Mystery of Jesuitism ; or the new Heresie of the Jesuites, publickly maintained at Paris, in the College of Clermont, the xii of December MDCLXI. declared to all the Bishops of France. According to the copy printed at Pans. Together with the Imaginary Heresie, in three Letters, with divers other particu- lars relating to the abominable Mysterie. Never before published in English. London: Printed by James Flesher, for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred Majesty, 1664, —3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of a Letter from the reverend Father Valerian, a Capuchin, tc Pope Alexander 7th, pp. 207—239. The sense of the French Church, pp. 240—254. 3- The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable histories of their Actions in all p.irts of the world. Collected either from books of the greatest authority, or mdst certain and unquestionable records and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully translated into English (by Dr. Tongue ; see 1678, Oct. 1.) London : Printed for binion Miller at the Star at the West end of St. Paul's, 1670. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. Mysterie of Jesuitisn. translated and collected by me, the' without my name, containing the Tmaginarie Heresy, with 4 letters and other pieces. 4. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost and snow, towards Dover and other parts of Kent, to settle physitians, chirurgeons, agents, marshals and other officers in all the Sea Ports, to take care of such as should be set on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pur- suance of our Commission reaching from the North Foreland in Kent to Portsmouth in Hampshire. The rest of the Ports in England were allotted to the other Commissioners. That evening I came to Ro- chester, where I deliver'd the Privy Council's letter to the Maior to receive orders from me. 5. I ariv'd at Canterbury, and went to the Cathedral, exceedingly well repair'd since his Majesty's returne. 6. To Dover, where Col. Stroode Lieutenant of the Castle, having receiv'd the letter I brought him from the Duke of Albemarle, made me lodge in it, and I was splendidly treated, assisting me from place to place. Here I settled my first Deputy. The Maior and Officers of the Costomes were very civil to me. — 9. To Deal. — 10. To Sandwich, a pretty towne, about 2 miles from the sea. The Mmov and Officers of the Costomes were very diligent to serve me. I visited the Forts in the way, and return'd that night to Canterbury. II. To Rochester, when I tooke order to settle officers at Chatham. — 12. To Gravesend, and return'd home. A cold, busy, but not an unpleasant journey. 25. This night being at White-hall, his Majesty came to me standing in the withdrawing roome, and gave me thanks for publishing ' The Mysterie of Jesuitism,' which he said he had carried two days in his pocket, read it, and encourag'd me ; at which I did not a little wonder ; I suppose Sir Robert Murray had given it to him. 27. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caus'd me after dinner to sit 2 or 3 houres alone with him in his bed-chamber. 2 Feb. I saw a masq perform'd at Court by 6 gentlemen and 6 ladys, surprizing his Majesty, it being Candlemas-day. 8. Ash- Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at Chelsey Colledge, and to examine how the Martial and Suttlers behav'd. These were prisoners taken in the warr ; they only complain'd that their bread was too fine. I dined at Sir Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revells. 9. Din'd at my Lo. Treasurers the Earle of Southampton, in Blomes- bury, where he was building a noble Square or Piazza,^ a little Towne ; his owne house stands too low, some noble roomes, a pretty cedar chapell, a naked garden to the North, but good aire*. I had much 1 The Italians do not mean what we do by Piazza : they only mean a Square. 2 Afterwards it was called Bedford House, bein? the town residence for many years ol tlie Russell family, but was pulled down in 1800, and on the site and the adjom.ng fields were erected many handsome houses, now called Russell Square, Bedford Place, Russell Place, &c 304 ST. JAMES'S PARKE. DR. FELL. THE HOUSE OF LORDS. discourse with his Lordship, whom I found to be a person of extra- ordinary parts, but valctudinarie. — I went to St. James's Parke, where I saw various animals, and examined the throate of the Onocratylus or Pelican, a fowle betweene a Stork and a Swan ; a melancholy water- fowl brought from Astracan by the Russian Ambassador, it was divert- ing to see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice or flounder, to get it right into its gullet at its lower beak, which being filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness when it devours a great fish. Here was also a small water-fowl not bigger than a more-hen, that went almost quite erect like the penguin of America ; it would eate as much fish as its whole body weigh'd, I never saw so unsatiable a devourer, yet the body did not appear to swell the bigger. The Solan geese here also aro greate devourers, and are said soon to exhaust all the fish in a pond. Here was a curious sort of poultry not much exceeding the size of a tame pidgeon, with legs so short as their crops seem'd to touch the earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork which was a rarity at this season, seeing he was loose and could flie loftily ; two Balerian cranes, one of which having had one of his leggs broken and cut off above the knee, had a wooden or boxen leg and thigh, with a joynt so accurately made that the creature could walke and use it as well as if it had ben natural ; it was made by a souldier. The Parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle, breeding about the Decoy, which for being neere so greate a Citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular and diverting thing. There were also deere of severall countries, white; spotted like leopards; antelopes; an elk; red deere; roebucks; staggs ; Guinea goates ; Arabian sheepe, &c. There were withy-potts or nests for the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above the surface of the water. 23 Feb. I was invited to a greate feast at Mr. Rich's (a relation of my wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn ; where was the Duke of Monmouth, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishops of London and Winchester, the Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the Judges, and severall other greate men. 24. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preach'd before the King on 15 Romans 2, a very formal discourse, and in blank verse, according to his manner ; however he is a good man.— Mr. Philips, preceptor to my sonn, went to be with the E. of Pembroke's sonn, my Lo. Herbert. 2 March. I went with his Majesty into the lobbie behind the House of Lords, where I saw the King and rest of the Lords robe them- selves, and got into the Lords House in a corner neere the woolsack on which the Lord Chancellor sits next below the Throne ; the King sate in all the regaUa, the crown imperial on his head, the scepter and globe, &c. The D. of Albemarle bare the sword, the D. oi Ormond the cap of dir.nity. The rest of the Lords robed and in their places ;— a THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 305 most splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker and the House of Commons, and at the barr made a speech, and afterwards presented severall bills, a nod onely passing them, the Cleark saying Le Roy le veult, as to public bills ; as to private, Soit faite comme il est desirl Then his Majesty made a handsome but short speech, commanding my Lord Privy Scale to prorogue the Parliament, vvhicl he did, the Chancellor being ill and absent. I had not before scene this ceremony. 9. 1 went to receive the poore creatures that were saved out of the London fregat, blowne up by accident with above 200 men. 29 Mar. Went to Goring Housed, now Mr. Secretary Bennett's, ill built, but the place capable of being made a pretty villa. His Majestic was now finishing the Decoy in the Parke. 2 April. Took order about some prisoners sent from Capt. Allen's ship, taken in the Solomon, viz. the brave men who had defended her so gallantly. 5. Was a day of public humiliation and for successe of this terrible warr, begun doubtlesse at secret instigation of the French to weaken the States & Protestant interest. Prodigious preparations on both sides. 6. In the afternoone I saw acted ' Mustapha,' a tragedy written by the Earle of Orrery. II. To London, being now left the onely Commissioner to take all necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and keepe prisoners, dispose of hospitalls, &c. the rest of the Commissioners being gone to their severall districts, in expectation of a suddaine engagement. 19. Invited to a greate dinner at the Trinity House, where I had businesse with the Commissioners of the Navy, and to receive the second ^5,000 imprest for the service of the sick and wounded prisoners. 20. To White-hall to the King, who called me into his bed chamber as he was dressing, to whom I shew'd the letter written to me from the Duke of York from the fleete, giving me notice of Young Evertson, and some other considerable commanders newly taken in fight with thcj Dartmouth and Diamond frigats", whom he had sent me as prisoners 1 On the site whereof Arlington Street is nmv buiit. There is a small print of this house. 2 In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers (printed i8i6), aftei describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, he says, ' Soon after this three Dutch men of war, which had been seen for some time to the windward of us, and were lookmg out for their own fleet, bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above 80 guns, which for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertson to his son, with orders to follow ; the ott er two were not of the same force. These being to windward, endea- voured to join the head of their fleet, and young Evertson being a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish hii.iself, resolved to run on board the Plimouth, hoping to bear her down : but Sir Tho. Allen, perceiving by Evertson 's working what his design was, brought his ship to at once, so that Evertson miss'd his aim, tho' he came so near it that the yard-arms of both tbipg touch'd, and they gave each other a severe broadside in passing ; after which Evertson and the other two made a shift to join their own fleet, and Sir Tho. Allen contmued leadmg as before, till finding himself extreamly disabled, he was forc'd to ly by ' P. 410.—' After this eng-.Semcnt ivas over, and the Dutch had retired to their own ports, ihe Duke of \ork had 20 306 FIGHT AT SEA. CAPTURE OF SHIPS. RELEASE OF THE CAPTAINS. at war ; I went to know of his Majestic bow he would have me treate them, when he commanded me to bring the young Captain to him, and to take the word of the Dutch Ambassador (who yet remained here) for the other, that he should render himself to me whenever I called on him, and not stir without leave. Upon which I desir'd more guards, the prison being Chelsey House. I went also to Lord Arlington (the Secretary Bennett lately made a Lord) about other busincsse. Dined at my Lord Chancellor's, none with him but Sir Sackville Crowe, for- merly the Ambassador at Constantinople ; we were very chearfull and merry. 24. I presented young Capt. Evertson (eldest son of Cornelius, Vice Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of John, now Admiral, a most vahant person) to his Majestic in his bed chamber ; the King gave him his hand to kisse, and restored him his liberty ; ask'd many questions con- cerning the fight (it being the first bloud drawne), his Majestic remem- bering the many civilities he had formerly receiv'd from his relations abroad, who had now so much interest in that considerable Province. Then I was commanded to go with him to the Holland Ambassador, where he was to stay for his passport, and I was to give him 50 pieces in broad gold. Next day I had the Ambassador's parole for the other Captain, taken in Capt. Allen's fight before Cales. I gave the King an account of what I had don, and afterwards ask'd the same favour for another Captain, which his Majesty gave me. 28 April. I went to Tunbridge, to sec a solemn exercise at the free schoole there \ Having taken orders with my martial about my prisoners, and with the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the wounded, enemies and of our owne men, I went to London again and visited my charge, severall with legs and arms off ; miserable objects God knows ! 16 May. To London to consider of the poore orphans and widows brought back the English fleet to the Nore, he took care to have his Scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond, Capt. Golding, and the Yarmouth, Capt Ayliffe, being sent to observe the motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two of the Direction ships (as the Dutch call them) of 40 od guns each ; the biggest was commanded by one Masters, the other by young Cornelius Evertson, who, tho' ours were of somewhat better force, did not avoid engaging. At the first broadside Golding was slain ; but his Lieut. Davis managed the fight so well, as did the Capt. of the Yarmouth, that after some hours dispute, both the Dutch ships were taken, tho' bravely defended, for they lost many men and were very much disabled before they •rvuck The Duke gave young Evertson his libertyi, in consideration of his father Cornelius, *ho had performed severall services for the K. before his Restoration ; and his R. H. freed also the other Captain for having defended himself so well, and made Lieut. Davis Captaiu of those prizes.' P. 419. * There is an annual visitation by the Skinners Company of London, who are the patrons, at which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesi- mus Knox (D.D.), author of many works, some of have gone through many editions, waa m aster from about 1779 to 1812, when he resigned in favour of his son the Rev. Thoma* Knox. 1 1. e. he recommended it to the King to do so, for we see he was sent tft London and pro- rented to the King by Mr. Evelyn. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 307 made by this bloudy beginning, and whose husbands and relations perished in the London fregat, of which there were 50 widows, and 45 of them with child. _ 26. To treat with the Holland Ambassador at Chelsey for release oi divers prisoners of warr in Holland on exchange here. After dinneff being call'd into the Council Chamber at White-hall, I gave his Majesty an account of what I had don, informing him of the vast charge upon us, now amounting to no less than ^.1000 weekeiy. 29. I went with my little boy to visite my district in Kent, to make up accompts with my officers. Visited the Governor at Dover Castle, where were some of my prisoners. 3 June. In my return went to Graves-end ; the Fleets being just now engaged, gave special orders for my officers to be ready to receive the wounded and prisoners. 5. To London, to speak with his Majesty and the Duke of Albemarle for horse and foote guards for the prisoners at warr, committed more particularly to my charge by a Commission apart. 8. I went againe to his Grace, thence to the Council, and mov'd for another privy scale for £.20,000, and that I might have the disposal of the Savoy Hospital for the sick and wounded, all which was granted. Hence to the Royal Society to refreshe among the Philosophers. Came newes of his Highness's victory, which indeede might have ben a compleate one, and at once ended the warr, had it ben pursued, but the cowardice of some, or treachery, or both, frustrated that. We had however bonfires, bells and rejoicing in the Citty. Next day the 9th I had instant orders to repaire to the Downes, so as I got to Rochester this evening. Next day I lay at Deale, where I found all in readinesse ; but the Fleete being hindred by contrary winds I come away on the 1 2th and went to Dover, and returned to Deale ; and on the 13th hearing the Fleete was at Solebay, I went homeward, and lay at Chatham, and the 14th I got home. On the 15th came the eldest son of the present Secretary of State to the French King, with much other companie, to dine with me. After dinner I went with him to London, to speake to my Lord Gen. for more guards, and gave his Majesty an account of my journey to the Coasts under my inspection. I also waited on his Royal Highnesse, now come triumphant from the Fleete, gotten in to repaire. See the whole history of this conflict in my History of the Dutch Warr. 20. To London, and represented the state of the sick and wounded to his Majesty in Council, for want of mony ; heorder'd I should apply to my Lo. Treassurer and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to raise the mony promised. We also presented to his Majesty divers expedients for retrenchment of the charge. This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to Mons. Co- minges the French Ambassador, and his Highness cranted me su VIoI'X niK fLEETE IN COMPANY WITH THE KINa prisoners, EmdenerSj who were desirous to go to the Barbados with a merchant. 22. We waited on the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and o-ot an order of Council for our mony to bu paid to the Treasurer of the Navy for our Receivers. 23. I din'd with Sir Robert Paston since Earle of Yarmouth, and saw the Duke of Verneuille base brother to the Q. Mother, a handsom old man, a greate hunter. The Duke of Yorke told us that when they were in fight, his dog sought out absolutely the very securest place in all the vessell. — In the afternoone I saw the pompous reception and audience of El Conde de Molino, the Spanish Ambassador, in the Banquetting-house, both their Majesties sitting together under the canopy of state. 30. To Chatham ; and i July, to the Fleete with Lord Sandwich, now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace to the Buoy of the Nore, where the whole Fleete rod at anker ; went on board the Prince of 90 brasse ordnance, happly the best ship in the world both for building and sailing ; she had 700 men. They made a greate huzza or shout at our approch 3 times. Here we dined with many noblemen, gentlemen and volunteers, served in plate and excellent meate of all sorts. After dinner came his Majestie, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I saw the King knight Capt. Custance for behaving so bravely in the late fight. It was surprizing to behold the good order, decency, and plenty of all things in a vessell so full of men. The ship received an hundred cannon shot in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to which, after a gun was shot off, came all the Flag-officers to his Majesty, who there held a Generall Council, which determin'd that his R. Highnesse should adventure himselfe no more this Summer. I came away late, having scene the most glorious Fleete that ever spread sailes. We returned in his Majesty's yacht with my Lo. Sandwich and Mr. Vice- Chamberlaine, landing at Chatham on Sunday morning. 5 July. I tooke order for 150 men who had ben recovered of their wounds, to be carried on board the Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and Zeland, ships that had ben taken by us in the fight; and so re- turn'd home. 7. To London, to Sir Wm. Coventrie ; and so to Sion, where h s Majesty sat at Council during the contagion ; when buisines was over, I viewed that seate belonging to the Earle. of Northumberland, built out of an old Nunnerie, of stone, and faire enough, but more celebrated for the garden than it deserves ; yet there is excellent wall-fruit, and a pretty fountaine ; nothing else extraordinarie. 9. I went to Hampton Court, where now the whole Court was, to sohcite for mony ; to carry intercepted letters ; confer again with Sir Wm. Coventrie, the Duke's secretary ; and so home, having din'd with Mr. Secretary Morice. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 309 i 6 July. There died of the plague in London this weeke iioo, and in the weeke foiiowing above 2cxx). Two houses were shut up in our parish. 2 Aug. A solemn fast thro' England to deprecate God's displeasure against the land by pestilence and war ; our Dr. preaching on 26 Levit 41, 42. that the meanes to obtaine remission of punishment was not to repine at it, but humbly submit to it. 3. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, L. Generall of all his Majesties Forces, to visite me, and carried me to dine with him. 4. I went to Wotton to carry my sonn and his tutor Mr. Bohun, Fellow of New Coll. (recommended to me by Dr. Wilkins and the Pres. of New Coll. Oxford), for feare of the pestilence, still increasing in London and its environs. On my returne I call'd at Durdans, where I found Dr. Wilkins, Sir Wm. Petty, and Mr. Hooke, contriving chariots, new rigging for ships, a wheele for one to run races in, and other mechanical inventions ; perhaps three such persons tog'ether were not to be found elsewhere in Europe, for parts and ingenuity. 8. I waited on the D. of Albemarle, who was resolved to stay at the Cock-pk in St. James's Parke. Died this week in London 4000. 15. There perished this week 5000. 28. The contagion still increascng and growing now all about us, I sent my wife and whole family (two or three necessary servants excepted) to my brother's at Wotton, being resolved to stay at my house myselfe and to looke after my charge, trusting in the providence and goodnesse of God. 5 Sept. To Ch began to bestir themselves, and not till now, who hitherto had stood as men intoxicated, with their hands acrosse) and began to consider that nothing was likely to put a stop but the blowing up of so many houses as might make a wider gap than any had yet ben made by the ordinary method of pulling them downe with engines ; this some stout seamen pro- pos'd early enough to have sav'd nearly the whole Citty, but this some tenacious and avaritious men, aldermen, &c. would not permitt, because their houses must have ben of the first. It was therefore now com- manded to be practic'd, and rtcj concerne being particularly for the Hospital of St. Bartholomew neere Smithfield, where I had my wounded and sick men, made me the more diligent to promote it ; nor was my care for the Savoy lesse. It now pleas'd God by abating the wind, and by the Industrie of the people, when almost all was lost, infusing a new spirit into them, that the furie of it began sensibly to abate about noone, so as It came no farther than the Temple Westward, nor than the entrance of Smithfield North : but continu'd all this day and night so impetuous toward Cripple-gate and the Tower as made us all despaire ; it also brake out againe in the Temple, but the courage of the multi- tude persisting, and many houses being blown up, such gaps and desolations were soone made, as with the former three days consump- tion, the back fire did not so vehemently urge upon the rest as formerly. There was yet no standing neere the burning and glowmg rumes by neere a furlongs space. 330 STATE OF LONDON aFTER THE FIRE. ST. PAUL'S A RUIN. The coale and wood wharfes and magazines of oyle, rosin, &c. did infinite mischeife, so as the invective which a httle before I had dedi- Gated to his Majesty and pubhsh'd,* giving warning what might probably be the issue of suirfering those shops to be in the Citty, was look'd on as a prophecy. The poore inhabitants were dispers'd about Si. George's Fields, and Moorefields, as far as Highgate, and severall miles in circle, some under tents, some under miserable hutts and hovells, many without a rag or any necessary utensills, bed or board, who from delicatenesse, riches, and easy accomodations in stately and well furnish'd houses, were now reduced to extreamest misery and poverty. In this calamitous condition I returned with a sad heart to my house, blessing and adoring the distinguishing mercy of God to me and mine, who in the midst of all this ruine was like Lot, in my little Zoar, were safe and sound. Sept. 6, Thursday. I represented to his Majesty the case of the French prisoners at war in my custodie, and besought him that there might be still the same care of watching at all places contiguous to unseised houses. It is not indeede imaginable how extraordinary the vigilance and activity of the King and the Duke was, even labouring in person, and being present to command, order, reward, or encourage workmen, by which he shewed his affection to his people and gained theirs. Having t' "^n dispos'd of some under cure at the Savoy, I re- turned to White-hall, where I din'd at Mr. Offley's,' the groome porter, who was my relation. 7. I went this morning on foote from White-hall as far as London Bridge, thro' the late Fleete Street, Ludgate Hill, by St. Paules, Cheapeside, Exchange, Bishopsgate, Aldersgate, and out to Moorefields, thence thro' Cornehill, &c. with extraordinary difficulty, clambering over heaps of yet smoking rubbish, and frequently mistaking where 1 was. The ground under my feete so hot, that it even burnt the soles of my shoes. In the mean time his Majesty got to the Tower by water, to demolish the houses about the graff, which being built intirely about it, had they taken fire and attack'd the White Tower where the magazine of powder lay, would undoubtedly not only have beaten downe and destroyed all the bridge, but sunke and torne the vessells in the river, and render'd the demolition beyond all expression for several miles about the countrey. At my returne 1 was infinitely concern'd to find that goodly Church St. Paules now a sad ruine, and that beautifull portico (for structure comparable to any in Europe, as not long before repaired by the late King) now rent in pieces, flakes of vast stone spHt asunder, and nothing ' The Fumifiigiutn. > Dr. Offley was rector of Abingcr, and donor of farms to Okewood Chapel in the parwk Wottoa, in the DatroniLffe oi the Evelyn family. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 321 /^maining intire but the inscription in the architrave, shewing by whom it was built, which had not one letter of it defac'd. It was astonishing to see what immense stones the heatc had in a manner calcin'd, so that all the ornaments, columnes, freezes, capitals, and projectures ot massie Portland stone flew off, even to the very roofe, where a sheet ot lead covering a great space (no lesse than 6 akers by measure) was totally mealted ; the mines of the vaulted roofe falling broke into St. Faith's, which being fill'd with the magazines of bookes belonging to the Stationers, and carried thither for safety, they were all consum'd, burning for a weeke following. It is also observable that the lead over the altar at the East end was untouched, and among the divers monu- ments, the body of one Bishop remain'd intire. Thus lay in ashes that most venerable Church, one of the most antient pieces of early piety in the Christian world, besides neere 100 more. The lead, yron worke, bells, plate, &c. mealted ; the exquisitely wrought Mercers Chapell, the sumptuous Exchange, the august fabriq of Christ Church, all the rest of the Companies Halls, splendid buildings, arches, enterics, all in dust ; the fountaines dried up an-d ruin'd, whilst the very waters remain'd boiling ; the voragos of subterranean cellars, wells, and dungeons, for- merely warehouses, still burning in stench and dark clowds of smoke, so that in five or six miles traversing about, I did not see one loade of timber unconsum'd, nor many stones but what were calcin'd white as snow. The people who nowwalk'd about the ruines appear'd like men in some dismal desart, or rather in some greate Citty laid waste by a cruel enemy ; to which was added the stench that came from some poore creatures bodies, beds, and other combustible goods. Sir Tho. Gressham's statue, tho' fallen from its nich in the Royal Exchange, remain'd intire, when all those of the Kings since the Conquest were broken to pieces ; also the standard in Cornehill, and Q. Elizabeth's effigies, with some armes on Ludgate, continued with but little detri- ment, whilst the vast yron chaines of the Citty strcetes, hinges, barrs and gates of prisons were many of them mealted and reduced to cinders by the vehement heate. Nor was I yet able to passe through any of the narrower streetes, but kept the widest ; the ground and aire, smoake and fiery vapour, continu'd so intense that my haire was almost sing'd, and my feete unsufferably surbated. The bie lanes and narrower streetes were quite fill'd up with rubbish, nor could one have possibly knowne where he was, but by the ruines of some Church or Hall, that had some remarkable tower or pinnacle remaining. I then went towards Isling- ton and Highgate, where one might have scene 200,000 people of all ranks and degrees dispers'd and lying along by their heapes of what they could save from the fire, deploring their losse, and tho' ready to perish for hunger and destitution, yet not asking one pennie for reliefe, which to me appear'd a stranger sight than any I had yet beheld. His Majestv and Council indeede tool>e all imaginable care lor their relieic 21 3.';2 ALARM IN THE RUINED CITY. LETTER TO SIR S. TUKE. b>' proclamation for the country to come in and refresh them with pro- visions. In the mi ist of all this calamity and confusion, there was, I know not how, an aJ.arme begun that the French and Dutch, with whom we were now in hostility, were not onely landed, but even entering the Citty. There was in truth some days before greate suspicion of those two nations joyning ; and now, that they had ben the occasion of firing the towne. This report did so terrific, that on a suddaine there was such an uproare i nd tumult that they ran from their goods, and taking what weapons they could come at, they could not be stopp'd from falling on some of those nations whom they casually met, without sense or reason. The clamor and peril grew so excessive that it made the whole Court amaz'd, and they did with infinite paines and greate difficulty reduce and appease the people, sending troops of soldiers and guards to cause them to retire into the fields againe, where they were watch'd all this night. I left them pretty quiet, and came home suffi- ciently weary and broken. Their spirits thus a little calmed, and the afifright abated, they now began to repaire into the suburbs about the Citty, where such as had friends or opportunity got shelter for the pre- sent, to which his Majesty's Proclamation also invited them. Still the plague continuing in our parish, I could not without danger adventure to our church. lo. I went againe to the ruines, for it was now no longer a Citty. 13 Sept. I presented his Majesty with a survey of the ruines, and a plot for a new Citty,' with a discourse on it ; whereupon after dinner ^Sir, [To Sir SamueH Tuke, Knt. & Bart.] It was some foure dayes before the most fatal Conflagration of the (quondam) Citty of Lon- don yet I addressed a few lines to you ; little thinking I should so soone have had two such dissolutions to deplore : The burning of the best Towne in the World : and the discease of the best ffriend in the World, your excellent Lady. Sir, you know they are but small afflictions that are loquacious— greate ones are silent : & if ever greate ones there were, mine eyes have beheld, & mine eares heard them, with an heart so possess'd with sorrow, that it is not easily expressed ; because the instances have ben altogether stupendous & unparallel'd. But it were in vaine to entertaine you w ith those formal topics, which are wont to be apply'd to personsof lesse fortitude A: Christian resignation, though 1 cannot but exhort you to what, I know, you do— looke upon all things in this World as transitory & perishing ; sent us upon condition of quitting them cherefully, when God pleases to take them from us, This consideration alone, (with the rest of those Graces which God has furnish 'd you withall) will be able to aleviateyoui passion, & and to preserve you from succumbing under the pressures, which I confesse are weighty : but not insupportable : Live therefore, I conjure you, & helpe to restore your deare Country, & to consolate your ffriends : There is none alive wishes you more sincere happinesse than my poore family. I suppose I should have heard ere this from you of all the concernments ; but impute your silence to some poss-ble miscarriage of your Letters ; since the usual place of addresseis with the reste reduc'd to ashes & made an heape of ruines. I would give you a more particular relation of this calamitous accident ; but I should oppresse you with .sad stories, and I question not but they are come too soone amongst you at Paris with all minutenesse & (were it possible) hyperbolies : There is this yet of les se deplorable in it : That, as it pleas'd God to order it, little effects of any greate consequence have been lost, besides the houses :— That our Mer- chands at the same instant in which it was permitted that the tidings should flie over Seas, had so settled all their affaires, as they complying with their forraine Correspondence as punctualy .s If no disaster at ail h..d hnppen'd ; nor do we heare of .0 much as one that has f.uVd. The fcKhange is now at Gressham CoUedge. The rest of the Citty (which may consist of neere a THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN^ 323 his Majesty sent for me into the Queen's bed-chamber, her Majesty aid the Duke onely being present ; they examin'd each particular, and dis- coursed on them for neere an houre, seeming to be extreamely pleas'd with what I had so early thought on. The Queene was now in her cavalier riding habite, hat and feather, and horseman's coate, going out to take the aire. 16. I went to Greenewich Church, where Mr. Plume preached very well from this text : ' Seeing therefore all these things must be dis- solved,' &c. taking occasion from the late unparalell'd conflagration to remind us how we ought to walke more holyly in all manner of conversation. 27. Dined at Sir Wm. D'Oylic's, with that worthy gent. Sir John Holland of Suffolke. 10 Oct. This day was order'd a generall fast thro' the Nation, to 7th part) & suburbs peopl'd with new shopps, the same noyse, buisinesse & com'erce, not to say vanity. Onely the poore Booke-sellers have ben indede ill treated by Vulcan ; so many noble impressions consum'd, by their tnisting them to the Churches, as thelosse is estimated neere two hundred thousand pounds : which will be an extraordinary detriment to the whole Republiq of Learning. In the mcane time, the King & Parliament are infinitely zealous for the rebuilding of our ruincs ; & I believe it will universally be the employment of the next Spring: They are now busied with adjusting the claim"s of each proprietor, that so they may dispose things for the building after the noblest model : Every body brings in his idea, amongst the rest I presented his Majestic my owne conceptions, with a Discourse annex'd. It wtis the second that was seene, within 2 dayes after the Conflagration : But Dr. Wren had got the start of me.^ Both of us did coincide so frequently, that his Majestic was not dis- pleas'd with it, & it caus'd divers alterations ; and truly there was never a more glorious Phoe- nix upon Earth, if it do at last emerge out of these cinders, & and as the designe is layd, with the present fervour of the undertakers. But these things are as yet im'ature ; & I pray God we may enjoy peace to encourage those faire dispositions : The miracle is, I have never in my life observ'd a more universal resignation, lesse repining among sufferers ; which makes me hope, that God has yet thoughts of mercy towards us : Judgments do not alwayes end where they begin ; & therefore let none exult over our calamities ;— We know not whose turn it may be next. But Sir, I forbear to entertaine you longer on these sad reflections ; but per- sist to beg of you not to sufi'cr any transportations unbecoming a man of virtue ; resolve to preserve your selfe, if it be possible, for better times, the good & rcstauration of your Country, & the comfort of your Friends & Relations, and amongst them of. Sir, Sayes Court, 27th September 1666, Yours, &c., J. E. Above is Letter of Mr. Evelyn to Sir S. Tuke on the subject of the Fire, and his plan for re- building the City. Part of this plan was to lessen the declivities, and to employ the rubbish in filling up the shore of the Thames to low water mark, so as to keep the Basin always full.— In a letter to Mr. Oldenburg, Secretary to the Royal Society, 22 Dec. 1666, he says, after mentioning the presenting his reflections on re-building the City to his Majesty, that ' the want of a more exact plot, wherein I might have marked what the Fire had spared, and accommodated my designe to tlie remaining paits, nv.de me take it as a rasa tahua, and to forme mine idea thereof accordingly : L have since lighted upon Mr. Hollar's late Plan, which looking upon as the most accurate hitherto extant, has caus'd me somethmg to alter what 1 had so crudely don, though for the most part I still persist in my former discourse, and wicha I heare send you as compleate as an imperfect copy will give me leave, and the supphment ol an ill memory, for since that tyme I hardly euer look'd on it, and it was finish d witbm two or three dayes after the Incendium.' 1 These Plans were afterwards printed by the Society of Antiquaries, and have been peatedly ergraved for the vaiious histories of London ; that by Mr. Evelyn is erroneously m- scribed Sir John Evel'm. 324 CALAMITIES WHICH AFFLICT THE NATION. COURT MORALITY. humble us on the late dreadful! conflagration, added to the plague and warr, the most dismall judgments that could be inflicted, but which indeede we highly deserv'd for our prodigious ingratitude, burning lusts, dissolute Court, profane and abominable lives, under such dispen- sations of God's continu'd favour in restoring Church, Prince, and People from our late intestine calamities, of which we were altogether unmindfull, even to astonishment. This made me resolve to go to our parish assemblie, where our Doctor preached on the 19 Luke 41, piously applying it to the occasion. After which was a collection for the dis- tress'd loosers in the late fire. 18. To Court. It being the first time his Majesty put himself solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changeing doublet, stiff collar, bands and cloake, into a comely vest, after the Persian mode, with girdle or straps, and shoe strings and garters into bouckles, of which some were set with precious stones,^ resolving never to alter it, and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtain'd to our greate expence and reproch. Upon which divers courtiers and gentle- men gave his Majesty gold by way of wager that he would not persist in this resolution. I had sometime before presented an invective against that unconstancy, and our so much afi"ecting the French fashion, to his Majesty, in which I tooke occasion to describe the comlinesse and use- fulnesse of the Persian clothing, in the very same manner his Majesty now clad himselfe. This pamphlet I intitl'd ' Tyrannus, or the Mode,' and gave it to his Majesty to reade. I do not impute to this discourse the change which soon happen'd, but it was an identity that I could not but take notice of. This night was acted my Lord Broghill's * tragedy call'd *Mus- tapha ' before their Majesties at Court, at which I was present, very seldom going to the publiq theaters for many reasons, now as they were abused to an atheistical hberty, fowle and undecent women now (and never till now) permitted to appeare and act, who inflaming severall young noblemen and gallants, became their misses, and to some their wives ;^ witness the Earle of Oxford, Sir R. Howard, P. Rupert, the Earle of Dorset, and another greater person than any of them, who fell into their snares, to the reproch of their noble families, and ruine of both body and soule. I was invited by my Lord Chamberlaine to see this tragedy, exceedingly well written, thogh in my mind I did not approve of any such pastime in a season of such judgments and calamities. 21. This season, after so long and extraordinarie a drowth in August ^ It would be curious to see a portrait of the King in this costume, which was however shortly alter abandoned and laid aside. 2 Richard Lord Broghil!, created shortly after this Earl of Orrery; he wrote several othel plays besides that here noticed. rA^\'L Hui;hes, Nell Gwynn, who lett the Earl for his Majesty, to ^.■hom wcra *cdcd Mrs. Davi5 and Mrs. Knight. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, and September, as if preparator>' for the dreadfull fire, was so very wett and rainy as many feared an ensuing famine. 28. The pestilence, thro' God's mercy, began now to abate consider- ably in our towne. 30. To London to our office, and now had I on the vest and sur- coat or tunic as 'twas call'd, after his Majesty had brought the whole Court to it. It was a comely and manly habit, too good to hold, it being hnpossible for us in good earnest to leave the Monsieurs vanities long. 31. I heard the signal cause of my Lord Cleaveland pleaded before the House of Lords, and was this day 46 yeares of age, wonderfully pro- tected by the mercies of God, for which I render him immortal thanks. 14 Nov. I went my winter circle thro' my district, Rochester & other places, where I had men quarter'd and in custody. — 1 5. To Leeds Castle. 16. I muster'd the prisoners being about 600 Dutch and French, order'd their proportion of bread to be augmented, and provided cloaths and fuell. Monsieur Colbert, Ambassador at the Court of England, this day sent mony from his master the French King to every prisoner of that nation under my guard. 17. I return'd to Chatham. My chariott overturning on the steepe of Bexley Hill, wounded me in two places on the head ; my sonn Jack being with me was like to have ben worse cutt by the glasse ; but I thanke God we both escaped without much hurt, tho' not without ex- ceeding danger. — 18. At Rochester. — 19. Return'd home. 23. At London I heard an extraordinary case before a Committee of the whole House of Commons, in the Commons House of Parlia- ment, between one Capt. Taylor and my Lo. Viscount Mordaunt, where after the lawyers had pleaded, and the witnesses ben examin'd, such foul and dishonourable things were produc'd against his Lordship, of tyranny during his government of Windsor Castle, of which he was Constable, incontinence, and suborning witnesses (of which last one Sir Richard Breames was most concerned), that I was exceedingly inte- rested for his Lordship, who was my special friend, and husband of the most virtuous lady in the world. We sate till neere 10 at night, and yet but halfe the Council had don on behalfe of the Plaintiffe. The question then was put for bringing in of lights to sit longer ; this lasted so long before it was determin'd, and rais'd such a confus'd noise among the Members, that a stranger would have ben astonish'd at it. I admire that there is cot a rationale to regulate such trifling accidents, which consume a world of time, and is a reproch to the gravity of so greate an assembly of sober men. 27. Sir Hugh Pollard, Comptroller of the Household, died at White-hall, and his Majesty conferr'd the white staffe on my brother Commissioner for sick and wounded. Sir Tho. Clifford,' a bold young gentleman, of a small fortune in Devon, but advanc'd by Lo. Arlington, » Afterwards Lord Treasurer. 326 CLARENDON HOUSE. MY SONN ENTERED AT OXFORD. Secretary of State, to the greate astonishment of all the Court. This gentleman was somewhat related to me by the marriage of his mother to my neerest kinsman Gregory Coale,^ and was ever my noble friend, a valiant and daring person, but by no means fit for a supple and flattering courtier. 28. Went to see Clarendon House,* now almost finish'd, a goodly pile to see to, but had many defects as to the architecture, yet plac'd most gracefully. After tliis I waited on the Lord Chancellor, who was now at Berkshire House,^ since the burning of London. 2 Dec. Din'd with me Monsieur Kiviet, a Dutch gentleman pen- sioner of Roterdam, who came over for protection, being of the Prince of Orange's party, now not wellcome in Holland. The King knighted him for some merit in the Prince's behalf. He should, if caught, have ben beheaded with Monsieur Buat, and was brother-in-law to Van Tromp, the Sea Generall. With him came Mr. Gabriel Sylvius, and Mr. Williamson Secretarie to Lord Arlington ; Sir Kiviet came to exa« mine whether the soile about the river of Thames would be proper to make clinker-bricks, and to treate with me about some accomodation in order to making such. 1667. 9 Jan. To the Royal Society, which since the sad conflagra- tion were invited by Mr. Howard to sit at Arundel House in the Strand, who at my instigation likewise bestow'd on the Society that noble library which his grandfather especialy, and his ancestors had collected. This gentleman had so little inclination to bookes, that it was the pre- servation of them from imbezzlement. 24. Visited my Lo. Chancellor, and presented my son John to him, now preparing to go to Oxford, of which his Lordship was Chancellor. This evening 1 heard rare Italian voices, two eunuchs and one woman, in his Majesty's greene chamber next his cabinet. 29 Jan. To London in order to my son's Oxford journey, who being very early enter'd both in Latin and Greek, and prompt to learn beyond most of his age, I was persuaded to trust him under the tutor- age of Mr. Bohun, fellow of New College, who had ben his preceptor in my house some years before ; but at Oxford under the inspection of Dr. Bathurst, President of Trinity Coll., where I plac'd him, not as yet 13 years old. He was newly out of long coates *. » Of this gentleman and his family, seated at Petersham in Surrey, see Hist, of that County. 2 Since quite demolished. It was situated where Albemarle Street now is. After Lord Clarendon's exile, the Duke of Albemarle occupied this noble mansion, of which there are two engraved views at least, one a small one by John Dunstall, and another upon a very large scale by J. Spiibergh. 3 Berkshire or Cleavdand House belonged to the Howards Earls of Berkshire, and stood very near the royal residence. It was afterwards purchased and presented by Charles II. to Barbara Dutchess of Cleveland. It was then of great extent ; she however afterwards sold part, which was built into various houses. * At the Swan Inn at Letherhcad in Surrey is a picture of four children, dates of birth be- tween 1640 and 1650. one of them is a boy about this age, in a coat or vest, reaching almost to his ancks. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 15 Feb. My little booke in answer to Sir Geo. Mackenzie on Soli* tude, was now published, intitled, ' Public Employment and an active Life with its Appanages preferred to Solitude.' ' 19. 1 saw a comedy acted at Court. In the afternoone I saw a wrestling-match for ^.1000 in St. James's Park, before his Majesty, a world of lords and other spectators, 'twixt the Western and Northern men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lo. Gerard being the judges. The Western men won. Many greate sums were betted. 18. I saw a magnificent ball or masque in the Theater at Court, where their Majesties and all the greate Lords and Ladies daunced, it was infinitely gallant, the men in their richly embrodrcd most becoming vests. 6 March. I proposed to my Lo. Chancellor Monsieur Kiviet's under- taking to warfe the whole river of Thames, or Key, from the Temple to the Tower, as far as the fire destroied, with brick, without piles, both lasting and ornamental. — Great frosts, snow and winds, prodigious at the vernal equinox ; indeede it had ben a yeare of prodigies in this nation, plague, warr, fire, rains, tempest, and comet. 14. Saw ' The Virgin Qucene,' a play written by Mr. Dryden. 22. Din'd at Mr. Sec. Morice's, who shew'd me his library, which was a well-chosen collection. This afternoone I had audience of his Majesty concerning the proposal I had made of building the Key. 26. Sir John Kiviet din'd with me. We went to search for brick earth in order to a greate undertaking. 4 April. The cold so intense that there was hardly a leaf on a tree. 18. I went to make court to the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle at their house at Clerkenwell being newly come out of the North. They receiv'd me with great kindnesse, and I was much pleas'd with the extraordinary fanciful habit, garb, and discourse of the Dutchess. 22. Saw the sumptuous supper in the Banquetting-house at White- hall on the eve of St. George's day, where were all the Companions of the Order of the Garter. 23. In the morning his Majesty went to Chapell with the Knights of the Garter all in their habits and robes, usher'd by the Heraulds ; after the first service they went in procession, the youngest first, the Sovereigne last, with the Prelate of the Order and Dean, who had about his neck the booke of the Statutes of the Order, and then the Chan- cellor of the Order (old Sir Hen. de Vic) who wore the purse about his neck ; then the Heraulds and Garter King at Arms, Clarencieux, Black Rod. But before the Prelate and Deane of Windsor went the 1 In a letter to Mr. Cowley 12 Mar. 1666 he apologizes for having written ^gamst that life, which he had joined with Mr. Cowley in so much admiring, assurmg him he neither was, nor "S xh: DukHpent a princely fortune in the .eavice of Charles I. and H- He wrote o» Horsemanship a curious and splendid volume. Part of the old house is still standing in Clerk- eiiwell Close (1816). 32S INSTALLATION OF KNIGHTS OF THE GARTER. Gentlemen of the Chapell, and Choristers singing as they marched ; behind them two Doctors of Musick in damask robes ; this procession was about the Courts of White-hall. Then returning to their stalli and seates in the Chapell, plac'd under each Knights coate armour and titles, the second service began : then the King offer'd at the altar, an anthem was sung, then the rest of the Knights ofler'd, and lastly pro- ceeded to the Banquetting-house to a greate feast. The King sat on an elevated throne at the upper end at a table alone, the Knights at a table on the right hand, reaching all the length of the roome ; over against them a cupboard of rich gilded plate ; at the lower end the musick ; on the balusters above, wind musick, trumpets and kettle- drums. The King was serv'd by the Lords and Pensioners, who brought up the dishes. About the middle of the dinner the Knights drank the King's health, then the King theirs, when the trumpets and musick Dialed and sounded, the guns going off at the Tower. At the banquet came in the Queene and stood by the King's left hand, but did not sit. Then was the banquetting stuff flung about the roome profusely. In truth the croud was so greate, that tho' I staled all the supper the day before, I now staled no longer than this sport began for feare of dis- order. The cheere was extraordinary, each Knight having forty dishes to his messe, piled up five or six high. The roome hung with the richest tapessry. 25. Visited again the Duke of Newcastle, with whom I had ben ac- quainted long before in France, where the Dutchess had obhgation to my wives mother, for her marriage there ; she was sister to Lord Lucas and maid of honor then to the Queene Mother ; married in our Chapel at Paris. My wife being with me, the Duke and Dutchess both would needs bring her to the very Court. 26. My Lo. Chancellor shewed me all his newly-finished and furnish- ed palace and librarie ; then went to take the aire in Hide Park. 27. I had a greate deale of discourse with bis Majestic at dinner. In the afternoone I went againe with my wife to the Dutchess of New- castle, who receiv'd her in a kind of transport, suitable to her extrava- gant humour and dresse, which was very singular. May 8. Made up accounts with our Receiver, which amounted to ;^-33)936. is. 4^. Dined at Lord Cornbury's with Hon Francisco de Melos, Portugal Amdassador and kindred to the Queene : of the party were Mr. Henry Jermaine,and Sir Hen. Mapell. Afterwards I went to Arundel House to salute Mr. Howard's sons, who were newly return'd out of France. II. To London, dined with the Duke of Newcastle, and sate dis- coursing with her Grace in her bed-chamber after dinner, untill my Lord Marquiss of Dorchester with other company came in, when I went away. 30. To London to wait on the Dutchess of Newcastle (who was a THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 329 mighty pretender to learning, poetrie, and philosophic, and had in both pubhsh'd divers bookes) to the Royal Society 1, whither she came in greate pomp, and being receiv'd by our Lord President at the dore of our meeting roome, the mace, &c. carried before him, had several experiments shewed to her. I conducted her Grace to her coach, and return'd home. ' I June. I went to Greenewich, where his Majesty was trying divers granado's shot out of cannon at the Castle-hill, from the house in the Park ; they brake not till they hit the mark, the forg'd ones brake not at all, but the cast ones very well. The inventor was a German, there present. At the same time a ring was shewed to his Majesty, pretended to be a projection of mercury, and malleable, and say'd by the gentle- men to be fix'd by the juice of a plant. 10. To London, alarm'd by the Dutch, who were fallen on our fleete at Chatham, by a most audacious enterprise entering the very river with part of their lleete, doing us not only disgrace, but incredible mischiefe in burning severall of our best men of warr lying at anker and moor'd there, and all this thro' our unaccountable negligence in not setting out our fleete in due time. This alarme caus'd me, fearing the enemie might venture up the Thames even to London, (which they might have don with ease, and fir'd all the vessells in the river too,) to send away my best goods, plate, &c. from my house to another place. The alarme was so greate that it put both Country and Citty into a paniq feare and consternation, such as I hope as I shall never see more ; every body was flying, none knew why or whither. Now there were land forces dispatch'd with the Duke of Albemarle, Lord Middle- ton, Prince Rupert, and the Duke, to hinder the Dutch coming to Chatham, fortifying Upnor Castle, and laying chaines and booms ; but the resolute enemy brake thro' all, and set fire on our ships, and retreated in spight, stopping up the Thames, the rest of their fleet lying before the mouth of it. 14 June. I went to see the work at Woolwich, a battery to prevent them from coming up to London, which Pr. Rupert commanded, and sunk some ships in the river. 17. This night about 2 o'clock some chipps and combustible matter prepar'd for some fire-ships taking flame in Deptford Yard made such a blaze, and caus'd such an uproar in the Tower, it being given out that the Dutch fleete was come up and had landed their men and fir'd the Tower, as had like to have don more mischeife before people would be persuaded to the contrary and believe the accident. Every body went to their armes. These were sad and troublesome times ! I This reminds us of the visit of another greater lady, Queen Christina, to the French Aca- demy, at one of their sittings, recorded by Monsieur Pellisson in his History of that learned body. Queen Caroline, wife of King George II. also affected the company of deep Divines, Scholars, and Philsophers. 330 THE DUTCH: BLOCK UP THE THAMES. MY NEW FUEL. 24. The Dutch fleet still continuing to stop up the river, so as nothing could stir out or come in, I was before the Council, and com- manded by his Majesty to go with some others and search about the environs of the Citty, now exceedingly distress'd for want of fuell, whether there could be any peate or turfe found fit for use. The next day I went and discovered enough, and made my report that there might be found a great deale ; but nothing further was don in it. 28. I went to Chatham, and thence to view not onely what mischeife the Dutch had don, but how triumphantly their whole fleete lay within the very mouth of the Thames, all from the North fore-land, Margate, even to the buoy of the Nore — a dreadfull spectacle as ever Englishmen saw, and a dishonour never to be wiped off ! Those who advised his Majesty to prepare no fleete this spring deserv'd — I know what — but.' Here in the river off Chatham, just before the towne, lay the carkass of the London (now the third time burnt), the Royal Oake, the James, &c. yet smoking ; and now, when the mischeife was don, we were making trifling forts on the brink of the river. Here were yet forces both of horse and foote, with Gen. Midleton continually expecting the motions of the enemy's fleete. I had much discourse with him, who was an experienc'd commander. I told him I wonder'd the King did not fortifie Sheernesse,2 and the Ferry ; both abandoned. 2 July. Call'd upon my Lo. Arlington as from his Majesty about the new fuell. The occasion why I was mention'd was from what I had said in my Sylva three yeares before, about a sort of fuell, for a neede, which obstructed a patent of Lord Carlingford, who had ben seeking for it himselfe ; he was endeavouring to bring me into the project, and proffered me a share. I met my Lord ; and on the 9th by an order of council went to my Lord Maior to be assisting. In the mean time they had made an experiment of my receipt of houllies^ which I mention in my booke to be made at Maestricht with a mixture of charcoal dust and loame, and which was tried with successe at Gresham Colledge (then being the exchange for meeting of the mer- chants since the Fire) for every body to see. This done, I went to the Treasury for ^12,000 for the sick and wounded yet on my hands. Next day we met againe about the fuell at Sir James Armorer's in the Mewcs. 8. My Lord Brereton and others din'd at my house, where I shewed them proofe of my new fuell, which was very glowing and without smoke or ill smell. 1 The Parliament giving but weak supplies for the war, the King to save charges U per- suaded by the Chancellor, the Lord Treasurer Southampton, the Duke of Albem^irle, and the other M misters, to lay up the first and second rale ships, and make only a defensive war in the next campaigo. The Duke of York opposed this, but was over-ruled. Life c/ Jaiaei THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 33I 10. I went to see Sir Sam. Morland'si inventions and machines, anthmetical wheeles, quench-fires, and new harp. 17. The Master of the Mint and his Lady, Mr, WilHamson, Sir Nicholas Armorer, Sir Edvv. Bowyer, Sir Anthony Auger, and other friends, dined with me. 29 July. I went to Gravesend, the Dutch fleete still at anker before the river, where I saw 5 of his Majesty's men of war encounter above 20 of the Dutch, in the botlome of the Hope, chaceing them with many broadsides given and return'd towards the buoy of the Nore, where the body of their fleete lay, which lasted till about midnight. One ot their ships was fir'd, su(>pos'd by themselves, she being run on ground. Having seene this bold action, and their braving us so far up the river, I went home the next day, not without indignation at our negligetice, and the Nation's reproch. 'Tis well known who of the Commissioneis of the Treasury gav^ advice that the charge of setting forth a fleete ^his yeare might be spai'd, Sir W. C. (Will. Coventrie) by name. I August. I receiv'd the sad news of Abraham Cowley's death, that incomparable poet and virtuous man, my very deare friend, and was greately deplored. 3. Went to Mr. Cowley's funerall, whose corps lay at Wallingford House, and was thence convey'd to Westminster Abby in a hearse with 6 horses and all funeral decency, neere an hundred coaches of noblemen and persons of qualitie following ; among these all the witts of the towne, divers bishops and cleargymen. He was interrd next Geoffry Chaucer and neere to Spenser. A goodly monument has been since erected to his memorie. Now did his Majestie againe dine in the Presence, in ancient State, with musiq and all the Court ceremonies, which had ben interrupted since the late warr. 8. Visited Mr. Oldenburg, now close prisoner in the Tower, being suspected of writing intelligence. I had an order from Lord Arling- ton, Secretary of State, which caus'd me to be admitted. This gentle- man was Secretary to our Society, and I am confident will prove an innocent person. 15. Finish'd my account, amounting to ;^.25,ooo. 1 Mr. Aubrey says : " Under the Equestrian Statue of Cha. 2. in the great Court at Wind- sor is an engine for raising water, contrived by Sir Sam. Morland, alias Morley. He was son of Sir Sam. Morland, of Sulhampsted, Barrister, Berks, created Bart, by Cha, 2. in consider- ation of services performed during his exile. The son was a great mechanic, & was pre- sented with a gold medal & m:ide Magisier MecAantcorum by the King in 1681. He mvented the drum capstands for weighing heavy anchors ; the speaking trumpet, & other usefull engines. He died & was buried at Hammersmith, Middlesex, 1696. There is a monument for the a wives of Sir Sam. Morland in Westminster Abbey. There is a print of the son by Lombart after Lely. This Sir Sam. the son, built a large room in his garden at Vauxhall, which was much admired at that time. On the top was a punchinello holdmg a dial.' Aubrey s burrey, vol. I. p 13. See more of him in Manning and Bray's History of Surrey, vol. 111. 489, 49°. 491, and Appendix, p. cv.-He is also noticed again several times in this Diary; see particu larly under the year i68i. Sept. 532 FUNERAL OF MR. FARRINGDON. PROCLAMATION OF i?EACE. 17. To the funerall of Mr. Farringdon, a relation of my wife's. There was now a very gallant horse to be baited to death with doggs ; but he fought them all, so as the fiercest of them could not fasten on him, till they run him through with their swords. This wicked and barbarous sport deserv'd to have ben punish'd in the cruel contrivers to get mony, under pretence that the horse had kill'd a man, which was false. I would not be persuaded to be a spectator. 21. Saw the famous Italian puppet play, for 'twas no other. 24. I was appointed with the rest of my brother Commissioners t( put in execution an order of Council for freeing the prisoners at war in my custody at Leedes Castle, and taking off his Majestys extraordinary charge, having call'd before us the French and Dutch agents. The peace was now proclaimed in the usual forme by theheraulds. 25. After evening service I went to visit Mr. Vaughan', who lay at Greenwich, a very wise and learned person, he was one of Mr. Selden's executors and intimate friends. 27. Visited the Lo. Chancellor, to whom his Majesty had sent for the seales a few days before ; I found him in his bed-chamber very sad. The Parliament had accus'd him, and he had enemies at Court, especialy the buffoones and ladys of pleasure, because he thwarted some of them and stood in their way ; I could name some of the cheife. The truth is, he made few friends during his grandeur among the royal sufferers, but advanc'd the old rebells. He was, however, tho' no con- siderable lawyer, one who kept up the forme and substance of things in the Nation with more solemnity than seme would have had. He was my particular kind friend on all occasions. The Cabal, however, prevail'd, and that party in Parliament. Create division at Court con- cerning him, and divers greate persons interceding for him. 28. I din'd with my late Lord Chancellor, where also din'd Mr. Ashburnham, and Mr. Will. Legg of the Bed-chamber ; his Lordship pretty well in heart, tho' now many of his friends aud sycophants abandon'd him. In the afternoone I went to the Lords Commissioners for mony, and thence to the audience of a Russian Envoy in the Queene's presence- chamber, introduc'd with much state, the souldiers, pensioners, and guards in their order. His letters of credence brought by his secretary in a scarfe of sarsenett, their vests sumptuous, much embroider'd with pearls. He deliver'd his speech in the Russe language aloud, but with- out the least action or motion of his body, which was immediately in- terpreted aloud by a German that spake good English ; half of it con- sisted in repetition of the Zarr's titles, which were very haughty and oriental, the substance of the rest was that he was only sent to see the King and Queene, and know how they did, with much compliment and ' Afi«rwards Lord Chief Justice. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 333 frothy language. Then they kiss'd their Majesties hands, and went as they came ; but their real errand was to get money. 29. We met at the Star Chamber about the exchange and release of prisoners. 7 September. Came Sir John Kiviet to article with mc about his brick-work speculation. 13. 'Twixt the houres of twelve & one was borne my second daughter, who was afterwards christned Elizabeth. 19. To London with Mr. Hen. Howard of Norfolk, of whom I obtain'd the gift of his Arundelian Marbles, those celebrated and famous inscriptions Greeke and Latine, gather'd with so much cost and industrie from Greece, by his illustrious grandfather the magnificent Earle of Arundel, my noble friend whilst he liv'd. "When I saw these precious monuments miserably neglected and scatter'd up and downe about the garden, and other parts of Arundel House, and how exceedingly the corrosive aire of London impair'd them, I procur'd him to bestow them on the University of Oxford. This he was pleas'd to grant me, and now gave me the key of the gallery, with leave to mark all those stones, urns, altars, &c. and whatever I found had inscriptions on them, that were not statues. This I did, and getting them remov'd and pil'd together, with those which were incrusted in the garden-walls, I sent immediately letters to the Vice-Chancellor of what I had procur'd, and that if they esteem'd it a service to the University (of which I had ben a member) they should take order for their transportation. This don, 21st I accompanied Mr. Howard to his villa at Albury, where I design'd for him the plot for his canall and garden, with a crypt thro' the hill. 24 Sept. Returned to London, where I had orders to deliver the possession of Chelsey Colledge (us'd as my prison during the warr with Holland for such as were sent from the Fleete to London) to our Society, as a gift of his Majesty our founder. 8 Oct. Came to dine with me Dr. Bathurst, Deane of Wells, Presi- dent of Trinity Coll. sent by the Vice-Chancelor of Oxford, in the name both of him and the whole University, to thank me for prccurmg the Inscriptions, and to receive my directions what was to be don to shew their gratitude to Mr. Howard. II. I went to see Lord Clarendon, late Lord Chancellor and greatest officer in England, in continual apprehension what the Par- liament would determine concerning him. 17. Came Dr. Barlow, Provost of Queen's Colledge and Proto- bibliothecus of the Bodleian Library, to take order about the trans- portation of the Arundel Marbles. 25. There were deliver'd to me two letters from the Vice-Chan- celor of Oxford with the Decree of the Convocation attested by the Publick Notary, ordering four Doctors of Divinity and Lawtoackno^- 334 PRESENTATION OF THE ARUNDEL MARBLES TO OXFORD. ledge the obligation the University had to me for procuring the Mar^ mora Arimdeliana^ which was solemnly don by Dr. Barlow, Dr. Jenkins,' Judge of the Admiralty, Dr. Lloyd, and Obadiah Walker^ ol University Coll. who having made me a large complim:nt from the University, deliver'd me the Decree fairly written: Gesta venerabili domo Convocationis Universitatis Oxon ; . . 17. 1667. Quo die retulit ad Senatum Academicum Dominus Vicecancel- larius, quantum Universitas deberet singulari benevolentias Johannis Evelini Armigeri, qui pro ea pietate qua Almam Matrem prosequitur non solum Suasu et Concilio apud inclytum Heroem Henricum How- ard, Ducis Norfolcise h^eredem, interccssit ut Universitati pretiosissi- mum erudit^e antiquitatis thesaurum Marmora Arundelianalargiretur ; sed egregius insuper in ijs colligendis asservandisq ; navavit operam : Quapropter unanimi suffragio Venerabilis Domus decretum est ut eidem publicae gratias per delegatos ad Honoratissimum Dominum Henricum Howard propediem mittendos, solemniter reddantur. Concordat superscripta cum originah collatione facta per me Ben. Cooper Notarium Publicum ct Regnarium Universitat. Oxon. *SlR, * We intend also a noble inscription, in which also honorable mention shall be made of yourselfe ; but Mr. Vice Chancellor commands me to tell you that that was not sufficient for your merits, but that if your occasions would permit yOu to come down at the Act (when we intend a dedication of our new Theater), some other testimonie should be given both of your owne worth and affection to this your old Mother ; for we are all very sensible of this greate addition of learning and reputation to the University is due as well to your industrious care for the Universitie, and interest with my Lord Howard, as to his greate noblenesse and generositie of spirit. ' I am, Sir, your most humble servant, ' Obadiah Walker, Univ. Coll.' The Vice-Chancellor's letter to the same effect were too vaine glo- rious to insert, with divers copies of verses that were also sent me. Their mentioning me in the inscription I totally declin'd when I di- rected the titles of Mr. Howard, now made Lord upon his ambassage to Morocco. These lower Doctors having made me this compliment, desir'd me to carry and introduce them to Mr Howard at Arundel House : which I did. Dr. Barlow (Provost of Queenes) after a short speech, delivering a larger letter of the University's thankes, which was written in La- tine, expressing the greate sense they had of the honour don them. After this compliment handsomely pcrform'd, and as nobly received, Mr. Howard accompanied the Doctors to their coach. That evening I supp'd with them. 1 Bishop of Lincoln. 2 Afterwards Sir Leonline Jenkins, Secretary State. Subs It is probable that he did not build, and that after his misfortunes, which will be men- liotied hereafter, it was sold. Mr. Lysons, in his Britannia, under Cambridgeshire, says, that what remains of an old brick mansion, is now a farm-house. 2 Since Constable of the Tower. ' Horseheath. The Arlingtons seated here before 1239 ; William created an Irish Peer, tjy the title of Lord Arlington, in 1646. Mr. Lysons says the building cost ;^ 70,000, and with ^-.'^^^ '^^^ '° Bromley, esq. for ^^42,000. He expended ;{:3o,ooo more on the building. His grandson was created Lord Moiitford in 1741. In 1776 the second Lord •Montford sold the estate, the house being sold in 1777 for the materials, to be pulled dowo. Ly»ons .^mbridgcshire, p. 216, 2x7. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 347 tect was Mr. Pratt. It is seated in a parke, with a sweete prospect and stately avenue, but water still defective ; the house has also its infir- mities. Went back to Mr. Slingsby's. 22. We rod out to see the greate meere or levell of recover'd fen lande, not far off. In the way we met Lord Arlington going to his house in Suffolk, accompanied with Count Ogniati the Spanish Mi- nister, and Sir Bernard Gascoigne ; he was very importunate with me go with him to Euston, being but fifteen miles distant, but in reguard of my companie I could not. So passing thro' Newmarket, we alighted to see his Majesty's house there, now new building ; the arches of the cellars beneath are well turn'd by Mr. Samuel the architect, the rest meane enough and hardly fit for a hunting house. Many of the roomes above had the chimnies plac'd in the angles and corners, a mode now introduc'd by his Majesty which I do at no hand approve of. I predict it will spoile many noble houses and roomes if follow'd. It does onely well in very small and trifling roomes, but takes from the state of greater. Besides this house is place'd in a dirty streete, without any court or avenue, like a common one, whereas it might, and ought to have ben built at either end of the towne, upon the very carpet where the sports are celebrated ; but it being the purchase of an old wretched house of my Lord Thomond's, his Majesty was persuaded to set it on that foundation, although the most improper imaginable for a house of sport and pleasure. We went to see the stables and fine horses, of which many were here kept at a vast expense, with all the art and tendernesse imaginable. Being ariv'd at some meeres, we found Lord Wotton and Sir John Kiviet about their draining engines, having it seemes undertaken to do wonders on a vast piece of marsh ground they had hired of Sir Thomas Chichley (Master of .the Ordnance.) They much pleas'd themselves with the hopes of a rich harvest of hemp and cole seed, which was the crop expected. Here we visited the engines and mills both for wind and water, draining it thro' two rivers or graffs cut by hand and capable ol carrying considerable barges, which went thwart one the other, dis- charging the water into the sea. Such at this spot had ben the former vinter, it was astonishing to see it now drie and so rich that weeds jrew on the bankes almost as high as a man and horse. Here my Lord and his partner had built 2 or 3 roomes with Flanders white bricks, very hard. One of the greate engines ivas in the kitchen, where I saw the fish swim up, even to the very chimney hearth, by a small cut thro' the roome, and running within a foote of the very fire. Having after dinner rid about that vast levell, pester'd with heate and ^warmes of gnatts, we return'd over New-market Heath the way being mostly a sweet turfe and down, like Salisbury Plaine, thejockies breathing their fine barbs and racers, and giving them their heates. 23 July We return'd from Burrow Green to London, staying some 348 RED CROSSES ON A WOMAN'S ARME. THE FRENCH NUNNS. time at Audley End to see that fine palace. It is indeede a cheerful! piece of Gotic building, or rather antico mode?-no, but placed in an obscure bottome. The cellars and galleries are very stately. It has a river by it, a pretty avenue of limes, and in a parke. This is in Saffron Walden parish, famous for that useful! plant, with which all the countrie is cover'd. Dining at Bishop Stortford, we came late to London. 5 Aug. There were sent me by a neighbour a servant maid, who ir> the last moneth, as she was sitting before her mistress at work, felt a stroke on her arme a little above the wrist for some height, the smart of which, as if struck by another hand, caused her to hold her arme awhile till somewhat mitigated, but it put her into a kind of convulsion or rather hysteric fit. A gentleman coming casually in, looking on her arme, found that part poudred with red crosses, set in most exact and won- derful! order, neither swelled nor depressed, about this shape, X X X XXX X X X not seeming to be any way made by artifice, of a reddish colour, not so red as blood, the skin over them smooth, the rest of the arme livid and of a mortified hue, with certaine prints as it were of the stroke of fingers. This had happen'd three several! times in July, at about lo days interval!, the crosses beginning to weare out, but the successive ones set in other different, yet uniforme order. The maide seemed very modest, and came from London to Deptford with her mistress to avoid the discourse and importunity of curious people. She made no gaine by it, pretended no religious fancies, but seemed to be a plaine, ordinary, silent, working wench, somewhat fat, short, and high colour'd. She told me divers divines and physitians had scene her, but were unsatisfied ; that she had taken some remedies against her fits, but they did her no good ; she had never before had any fits ; once since she seem'd in her sleepe to hear one say to her that she should tamper no more with them, nor trouble herselfe with any thing that happen'd, but put her trust in the merits of Christ onely. This is the substance of what she told me, and what I saw and curiously examin'd. I was formerly acquainted with the impostorious Nunns of Loudune in France, which made such noise amongst the Papists, I therefore thought this worth the notice. I remember Mons. Monconys (that curious traveller and a Roman Catholic) was by no means satisfied with the stigmata of those Nunns, because they were so shy of letting him scrape the letters, which were Jesus, Maria, Joseph (as I think) observing they bc,[:^an to scale off with it, whereas this poore wench was willing to submit to any trial ; so that I profess THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 349 I know not what to think of it, nor dare I pronounce it any thing supernaturall. 26. At Windsor I supp'd with the Duke of Monmouth ; and the next day, invited by Lord Arlington, din'd with the same Duke and divers Lords. After dinner my Lord and I had a conference of more than an houre alone in his bedchamber, to engage me in the Historic. I shew'd him something that I had drawn up, to his greate satisfaction, and he desir'd me to shew it to the Treasurer. 28. One of the Canons preach'd, then followed the offering of the Knights of the Order, according to custom ; first the poore Knights in procession, then the Canons in their formalities, the Deane and Chan- cellor, then his Majesty (the Soveraine), then the Duke of York, Prince Rupert, lastly the Earle of Oxford, being all the Knights of the order that were then at Court. I din'd with the Treasurer, and consulted with him what pieces I was to add ; in the afternoone his Majesty tooke me aside into the bal- conie over the terrace, extreamely pleas'd with what had ben told him I had begun in order to his commands, and enjoyning me to proccede vigorously in it. He told me he had ordered the Secretaries of State to give me all necessary assistance of papers and particulars relating to it, and enjoyning me to make it a litth keene, for that the Hollanders had very unhandsomely abus'd him in tbeir pictures and libells. Windsor was now going to be repaired, being exceedingly ragged and ruinous. Prince Rupert, the Constable, had begun to trim up the keepe or high round tower, and handsomely adorned his hall with fur- niture of armes, which was very singular, by so disposing the pikes, muskets, pistols, bandeliers, holsters, drums, back, breast, and head pieces, as was very extraordinary. Thus those huge steepe stayres ascending to it had the walls invested with this martial furniture all new and bright, so disposing the bandeliers, holsters, and drums, as to represent festoons, and that without any confusion, trophy like. From the hall we went into his bedchamber, and ample roomes hung with tapissrie, curious and effeminate pictures ; so extreamely different from the other, which presented nothing but warr and horror. The King pass'd most of his time in hunting the stag, and walking in the parke, which he was now planting with rows of trees. 13 Sept. To visite Sir Richard Lashford, my kinsman, and Mr. Charles Howard at his extraordinary garden at Dipden. 15. 1 went to visit Mr. Arthur Onslow at West Clandon, a pretty dry seate on the Downes, where we din'd in his greate roome. 17. To visit Mr. Hussey, who being neere Wotton, lives in a sweete vally deliciously watered. • u t r 23. To Alburie to see how that garden proceeded, which I found exactly don to the designe and plot I had made, with the crypta ihro' the mountaine in t^- oark, 30 perches in length. Such a Pausi- PRINCE OF ORANGE. MADEMOISELLE QUEROUAILLE. lippe' is no where in England besides. The canall was now digging, and the vineyard planted. 14 Oct. I spent the whole afternoon in private with the Treasurer, who put into my hands those secret pieces and transactions concerning the Dutch war, and particularly the expedition of Bergen, in which he had himselfe the cheife part, and gave me instructions, till the King ariving from New-market we both went up into his bedchamber. 21. Din'd with the Treassurer, and after dinner we were shut up to- gether. I receiv'd other [further] advises, and ten paper bookes ol dispatches and treaties ; to return which againe I gave a note under my hand to Mr. Jos. Williamson, Master of the Paper Office. 31. I was this morning fifty yeares of age : The Lord teach me to number my daies so as to apply them to his glory. Amen. 4 Nov. Saw the Prince of Orange newly come to see the King his uncle ; he has a manly, courageous, wise countenance, resembling his mother and the Duke of Gloucester, both deceased. 1 now also saw that famous beauty, but in my opinion of a childish, simple, and baby face, Mademoiselle de Querouaille,^ lately Maide of Honor to Madame, and now to be so to the Queene. 23. Din'd with the Earle of Arlington, where was the Venetian Ambassador, of whom I now tooke solemne leave, now on his returne. There were also Lords Howard, Wharton, Windsor, and divers other greate persons. 24. I din'd with the Treasurer, where was the Earle of Rochester, a very prophane wit. 15 Dec. It was the thickest and darkest fogg on the Thames that was ever known in the memory of man, and I happened to be in the very midst of it. I supp'd with Monsieur Zulestein, late Governor to the late Prince of Orange. 1671. ID Jan. Mr. Bohun, my son's tutor, had ben 5 yeares in my house, and now Batchelor of Laws and Fellow of New Collcdge went from me to Oxford to reside there, having well and faithfully perform'd his charge. 18. This day I first acquainted his Majesty with that incomparable young man Gibbon,^ whom I had lately met with in an obscure place » A word adopted by Mr. Evelyn for a subterranean passage, from the famous grotto of Pausyllipo, at Naples. 2 Henrietta, the King's sister, married to Philip Duke of Orleans, was then on a visit here. Mademoiselle Querouaille came over in her train, on purpose to entice Charles into union with Lewis XIV. which unhappily succeeded but too well. She became the King's mistress, was made Uuchess of Portsmouth, and was his favourite till his death. 3 Usually known by the name of Gibbons ; celebrated for his exquisite carving. His prin- cipal performance is said to be at Petworth. The following account of him appears in Wal- pole's Catalogue of Painters, and incidental notes of other Artists, collected by Geo. Vertue. 'Grinling Gibbon. -An original genius, a citizen of nature. There is no instance before him of a man who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of Howers, and chained together the various productions of the elements with the free disorder natural to eacli species. It is uncertam whether he was born in Holland or in England ; it is said that he lived ia BeU THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 35 2 by meere accident as I was walking neere a poore solitary thatched house, in a field in our parish, neere Sayes Court. I found him shut in ; but looking in at the window I perceiv'd him carving that large cartoon or crucifix of Tintoret, a copy of which I had myselfe brought from Venice, where the original painting remaines. I asked if I might enter ; he open'd the door civilly to me, and I saw him about such a work as for the curiosity of handling, drawing, and studious exact- nesse, I never had before scene in all my traveils. I questioned him why he worked in such an obscure and lonesome place ; he told me it was that he might apply himselfe to his profession without interruption, and wondred not a little how I had found him out. I asked if he was unwilling to be made knowne to some greate man, for that I beheved it might turn to his profit ; he answer'd he was yet but a beginner, but would not be sorry to sell off that piece ; on demanding the price, he said 100/. In good earnest the very frame was worth the money, there being nothing in nature so tender and delicate as the flowers and festoons about it, and yet the worke was very strong ; in the piece were more than 100 figures of men, &c. I found he was hkewise musical, and very civil, sober, and discreete in his discourse. There was onely an old woman in the house. So desiring leave to visite him some- times, I went away. Savage Court, Ludgate hill, and was employed by Betterton in decorating the Theatre in Dorset Garden. He lived afterwards at Dcptford, in the same house with a musician, where the beneficent and curious Mr. Evelyn found and patronised both. This gentleman, Sir P. Lely, and Bap. May, who was something of an Architect himself, recommended Gibbons to Cha. II. who was too indolent to search for genius, and too indiscriminate in his bounty to confine il to merit, but was always pleased when it was brought home to him. He gave the artist a place in the Board of Works, and employed his hand on ornaments of most taste in his palaces, particularly at Windsor. Gibbon, in gratitude, made a present of his own bust in wood to Mr. Evelyn, who kept it at his house in Dover street. The piece that had struck so good a judge was a large carving in wood of St. Stephen stoned, long preserved in the sculptor's own house, and afterwards purchased and placed by the Duke of Chandos at Cannons.' Mr. Walpole is not quite correct in this account. Gibbon, when young, was found by Mr. Evelyn in a small house in Deptford, working on that famous piece from Tintoret, here said to represent the stoning of St. Stephen, and which seems from Mr. Evelyn's account, to have been his first performance of consequence. It must have been afterwards that he lived in Belle Sauvage Yard, and that he worked on the Theatre in Dorset Gardens. Mr. Evelyn does not mention a musician, and says there was only an old woman with him in the house at Deptford. It was Mr. Evelyn who recommended him to the King, to Mr. May the archi- tect, and to Sir Christopher Wren. Of the bust nothing is known at Wotton. Copy from an original Letter addressed by G. Gibbon to Mr. Evelyn, now at Wotton. Honred ^ . , , , Sir I wold beg t.he faver wen you see Sir Joseff Williams (Williamson) again you wold b« pleasd to speack to him that hee wold get me to Carve his Ladis sons hous my Lord Kildare for I onderstand it will (be) verry considerabell ar If you haen Acquantans wich my Lord to speack to him his sealf and I shall for Ev're be obliaged to You I wold speack to Sir Josef my sealf but i knouw it wold do better from you Sir youre Most umbell Sarvant Lond. 23 Mar. 1682. , „ .u Mr. Evelyn wrote to Lord Kildare recommending Mr. Gibbon ; and to Mr. Gibuon with tbi 352 MY HTSTORIE OF THE DUTCH WAR. COUNCIL OF PLANTATIONS. Of this young artist, together with my manner of finding him out, f acquainted the King, and begg'd that he would give me leave to bring him and his worke to White-hall, for that I would adventure my reputation with his Majesty that he had never scene anything approch it, and that he would be exceedingly pleased, and employ him. The King said he would himselfe go see him. This was the first notice his Majestic ever had of Mr. Gibbon. 20. The King came to me in the Queen's withdrawing roome from the circle of ladies, to talk with me as to what advance I had made in the Historic of the Dutch War. I din'd with the Treasurer, and afterwards we went to the Secretarie's Office, where we conferred about divers particulars. 21. I was directed to go to Sir Geo. Downing, who having ben a publick minister in Holland at the beginning of the war, was to give me light in some material passages. This yeare the weather was so wet, stormy, and unseasonable, as had not ben knowne in many yeares. 9 Fc\ I saw the greate ball danc'd by the Oueene and distinguished ladies at White-hall Theater. Next day was acted there the famous play call'd * The Siege of Granada,' (Dryden) two days acted succes- sively ; there were indeede very glorious sceanes and perspectives, the worke of Mr. Streeter, who well understands it. 19. This day din'd with me Mr. Surveyor Dr. Christopher Wren, and Mr. Pepys, Cleark of the Acts, two extraordinary ingenious and knowing persons, and other friends. I carried them to see the piece ol carving which I had recommended to the King. 25. Came to visit me one of the Lords Commissioners of Scotland for the Union. 28. The Treasurer acquainted me that his Majesty was graciously pleas'd to nominate me one of the Council of Forraine Plantations, and give me a salary of 500/. per ann. to encourage me. 29. I went to thank the Treasurer, who was my greate friend and loved me ; I dined with him and much company, and went thence to my Lo. Arlington, Secretary of State, in whose favour I likewise was upon many occasions, tho' I cultivated neither of their friendships by any meane submissions. I kissed his Majesty's hand on his making me one of that new establish'd Council. I Mar. I caused Mr. Gibbon to bring to White-hall his excellent piece of carving, where being come I adverlis'd his Majestic, who ask'd me where it was ; I told him in Sir Richard Browne's (my father-in- law) chamber, and that if it pleas'd his Alajesty to appoint whither it should be brought, being large and tho' of wood heavy, I would take care tor it ; * No,' says the King, ' shew me the way, I'll go to Sir Richard's chamber,' which he immediately did, walking along the -ntrics after me ; as far as the ewrie, till be came up into the roome THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 35^ where I also lay. No sooner was he enter'd and cast his eye on the work but he was astonish'd at the curiositieof it, and having consider'd it a long time and discours'd with Mr. Gibbon, whom I brought to kisse his hand, he commanded it should be immediately carried to the Queenes side to shew her. It was carried up into her bed chamber, where she and the King looked on and admired it againe ; the King being call'd away left us with the Queene, believing she would have bought it, it being a crucifix ; but when his Majesty was gon, a French pedling woman, one Mad. de Boord, who us'd to bring peticoates and fanns, and baubles out of France to the Ladys, began t-o find fault with severall things in the worke, which she understood no more than an asse or a monkey, so as in a kind of indignation, I caused the person who brought it to carry it back to the chamber, finding the Queene so much govern'd by an ignorant French woman, and this incomparable artist had his labour onely for his paines, which not a little displeas'd me, and he was faine to send it downe to his cottage againe ; he not long after sold it for ^.80. tho' well worth ^.100. without the frame, to Sir George Viner. His Majesty's Surveyor, Mr. Wren, faithfully promis'd me to employ him '. I having also bespoke his Majesty for his worke at Windsor, which my friend Mr. May the architect there was going to alter and repaire universally ; for on the next day I had a fair opportunity of talking to his Majesty about it, in the lobby next the Queenes side, where I presented him with some sheetes of my Historie. I thence walk'd with him thro' St. James's Parke to the garden, where I both saw and heard a very familiar discourse between and Mrs. Nellie" as they cal'd an impudent comedian, she looking out of her garden on a terrace at the top of the wall, and stand- ing on the greene walke under it. I was heartily sorry at this scene. Thence the King walked to the Dutchess of Cleaveland, another lady of pleasure, and curse of our nation. 5. I dined at Greenevvkh, to take leave of Sir Tho. Linch, going Governor of Jamaica, 10. To London about passing my patent as one of the standing Council for Plantations, a considerable honour, the others in the Council being chiefly Noblemen, and Officers of State. 2 April. To Sir Tho. Chfford the Treasurer, to condole with him on the losse of his eldest son, who died at Florence. 2 May. The French King being now with a greate army of 28,000 men about Dunkirk, divers of the grandees of that Court, and a vast number of gentlemen and cadets in fantastical habits came flocking over to see our Court, and compliment his Majesty. I was present when they first we/e conducted into the Queenes withdrawing roome. 1 Th# :arving in the Choir, &c. of St. Paul's Catliedral was executed by Gibbon. < Nel. Gwyn : there can be do donh* with what name to til! up these olanks. ^3 «54 MONSIEUR DE GRAMONT. COL. BLOOD. PLANTATIONS. v/hert saluted their Majesties the Dukes of Guise, Longueville, and many others of the first sort. 10. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's, where dined Monsieur De Gramont am: severall French noblemen, and one Blood, that impudent bold fell jw who had not long before attempted to steale the imperial crovvne itselfe out of the Tower, pretending onely curiositie of seeing the regalia there, when stabbing the keeper, tho' not mortally, he boldly went away with it thro' all the guards, taken onely by the accident of his horse falling down. How he came to be pardoned, and even received into favour, not onely after this, but seveiail other exploits almost as daring both in Ireland and here, 1 could never come to understand. Some believed he became a spie of severall parties, being well with the Sec- taries and Enthusiasts, and did his Majesty services that way, which none alive could do so well as he ; but it was certainely as the boldest attempt, so the onely treason of this sort that was ever pardon'd. The man had not onely a daring but a villainous unmercifull looke, a false countenance, but very well spoken and dangerously insinuating. 11. I went to Eltham to sit as one of the Commissioners about the subsidie now given by Parliament to his Majesty. 17. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's [Sir Tho. Clifford] with the Earl of Arlington, Carlingford, Lord Arundel of Wardour, Lo. Almoner to the Queene, a French Count, and two abbots, with several more of French nobihty ; and now by something I had lately observed of Mr. Treasurers conversation on occasion, I suspected him a little warping to Rome. 25. I dined at a feast made forme and my wife by the Trinity Com- pany for our passing a fine of the land which Sir R. Browne my wife's father freely gave to found and build their Colledge or Almes houses on at Deptford, it being my wife's after her father's decease. It was a good and charitable worke and gift, but would have ben better bestow'd on the poore of that parish, than on the seamcns widows, the Trinity Company being very rich, and the rest of the poore of the parish ex- ceedingly indigent. 26. The Earle of Bristol's house in Queene Street [Lincoln's Inn Fields], was taken for the Commissioners of Trade and Plantations, and furnish'd with rich hangings of the King's. It consisted of seven roomes on a floore, with a long gallery, gardens, &c. This day we met : the , Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Lauderdaile, Lord Colpeper, Sir Geo. Carteret Vice Chamberlaine, and myselfe, had the oathes given us by the Earle of Sandwich, our President. It was, to advise and counsel his Majesty to the best of our abilities for the well governing of his Forraine Plantations, &c. the forme very little differing from that given to the Privy Council. We then tooke our places at the Board in the Council Chamber, a very large roome furnished with atlases, mapps, charts^ globes, &c. Then came the Lord Keeper, Sir Orlando Bridge- man, Earl of Arlington, Secretary of State, Lord Ashley, Mr. Treasurer, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 355 Sir John Trevor the other Secretary, Sir John Duncomb, Loid Ailing, ton, Mr. Grey, son to the Lord Grey, Mr. Henry Broncher, Sir Humfry Winch, Sir Joh 1 Finch, Mr. Waller, and Coll. Titus of the Bedcham- ber, with Mr. Slingsby Secretary to the Council, and two Clearksof the Council, who had all ben sworne some dayes before. Being all set, our Patent was read, and then the additional Patent, in which was re- cited this new establishment ; then was delivered to each a copy 01 the Patent and of instructions ; after which we proceeded to business. The first thing we did was to settle the forme of a circular letter to the Go- vernors of all his Majesty's Plantations and Territories in the West Indies and Islands thereof, to give them notice to whom they should apply themselves on all occasions, and to render us an account of their present state and government ; but what we most insisted on was to know the condition of New England, which appearing to be very inde- pendent as to their regard to Old England or his Majesty, rich and strong as they now were, there were greate debates in what style to write to them, for the condition of that Colony was such that they were able to contest with all other Plantations about them, and there was feare of their breaking from all dependance on this Nation ; his Majesty therefore commended this affaire more expressly. We therefore thought fit in the first place to acquaint ourselves as well as we could of the state of that place, by some whom we heard of that were newly come from thence, and to be informed of their present posture and condition ; some of our Council were for sending them a menacing letter, which those who better understood the peevish and touchy humor of that Colonic, were utterly against. A letter was then read from Sir Tho. Modiford, Governor of Jamaica ; and then the Council brake up. Having brought an action against one Cock for money which he had receiv'd for me, it had been referred to an arbitration by the recom- mendation of that excellent good man the Chief Justice Hales ; but this not succeeding, I went to advise with that famous lawyer Mr. Jones, of Gray's Inn, and 27 May had a trial before the Lo. Ch. Justice Hales, and after the lawyers had wrangled sufficiently, it was referred to a new arbitration. This was the very first suit at law that ever I had with any creature, and 6 that it might be the last ! I June. An installation at Windsor. 6. I went to Council, where was produc'd a most exact and ample information of the state of Jamaica, and of the best expedients as to New England, on which there was a long debate, but at length 'twas concluded that, if any, it should be only a conciliating paper at first, or civil letter, till we had better information of the present face of things, since we understood they were a people almost upon the very brink of renouncing any dependance on the Crowne. 19. To a splendid dinner at the greate roome in Deptford Trmity 356 STATE OF NEW ENGLAND ALARMS COUNCIL OF PLANTATIONS. House, Sir Thomas Allen chosen Master, and succeeding the Earle of Craven. 20. To carry Coll. Midleton to White-hall to my Lo. Sandwich, our President, for some information which he was able to give of the state of the Colonic in New England. 21. To Council againe, when one Coll. Cartwright, a Nottingham- shire man, (formerly in commission with Collonel NichoUs) gave us a considerable relation of that country, on which the Council concluded that in the first place a letter of amnestic should be dispatch'd. 24. Constantine Hugens, Signor of Zuylichem, that excellent learn'd man, poet, and musitian, now neere 80 yeares of age, a vigorous, brisk man, came to take leave of me before his returne into Holland with the Prince, whose Secretary he was. 26. To Council, where Lo. Arlington acquainted us that it was his Majesty's proposal we should every one of us contribute £20 towards building a Council-chamber and conveniences somewhere in White-hall, that his Majesty might come and sit amongst us and heare our debates ; the mony we laid out to be reimbours'd out of the contingent monie:' already set apart for us, viz. £iocKi yearly. To this we unanimously consented. There came an uncertaine bruite from Barbados of some disorder there. On my return home I stept in at the Theater to see the new machines for the intended scenes, which were indeede very costly and magnificent. 29. To Council, where were letters from Sir Tho. Modiford, of the expedition and exploit of Coll. Morgan and others of Jamaica on the Spanish Continent at Panama. 4 July. To Council, where we drew up and agreed to a letter to be sent to New England, and made some proposal to Mr. Gorges for his interest in a Plantation there. 24. To Council. Mr. Surveyor brought us a plot for the building of our Council-chamber, to be erected at the end of the Privy-garden in White-hall. 3 August. A full appearance at the Council. The matter in debate was, whether we should send a Deputy to New England, requiring them of the Massachusets to restore such to theii hmits and respective pos- sessions as had petition'd the Council ; this to be the open Commission oncly, but in truth with seacret instructions to informe the Council of the condition of those Colonies, and whether they were of such power as to be able to resist his Majesty and declare for themselves as inde- pendent of the Crowne, which we were told, and which of late yeares made ihcm refractorie. Coll. Midleton being call'd in, assur'd us they might be curb'd by a few of his Majesty's first-rate fregats, 1;o spoile their trade with the islands ; but tho' my Lo. President was not satis- fied, the rest were, and we did resolve to advise his Majesty to send THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 357 Commissioners with a formal Commission for adjusting boundaries &c. with some other instructions. ' 19. To Council. The letters of Sir Tho. Modiford were read, giving relation of the exploit at Panama, which was very brave ; they tooke, burnt and pillag'd the towne of vast treasures, but the best of the booty had ben shipp'd off and lay at anchor in the South Sea, so that after our men had rang'd the country 60 miles about, they went back to Nombre de Dios, and embarq'd for Jamaica. Such an action had not ben done since the famous Drake. I din'd at the Hambrogh Residents, and after dinner went to the christening of Sir Sam. Tuke's son Charles, at Somerset House, by a Popish priest with many odd ceremonies. The godfathers were the King and Lord Arundel of Wardour, and the godmother the Countesse of Huntingdon. 29 Aug. To London with some more papers of my progresse in the Dutch Warr, delivered to the Treasurer. I Sept. Din'd with the Treasurer in company with my Lord Arling- ton, Halifax, & Sir Tho. Strickland ; and next day went home, being the anniversarie of the late dreadfull fire of London. 13 Sept. This night fell a dreadful tempest. 15. In the afternoone at Council, where letters were read from Sii Charles Wheeler concerning his resigning his Government of St. Christopher's. 21. I din'd in the Cittyat the fraternity feast in Yron-mongers Hall,' where the 4 stewards chose their successors for the next yeare, with a solemn procession, garlands about their heads and musiq playing before them, so coming up to the upper tables where the gentlemen sate, they drank to the new stewards, and so we parted. 22. I din'd at the Treasurer's, where I had discourse with Sir Hen. Jones (now come over to raise a regiment of horse), concerning the French conquests in Lorraine ; he told me the King sold all things to the souldiers, even to an handfull of hay. Lord Sunderland was now nominated Ambassador to Spaine. After dinner the Treasurer carried me to Lincoln's Inn, to one of the Parliament Clearks, to obtaine of him that I might carry hom.e and peruse some of the Journals, which were accordingly delivered to me to examine about the late Dutch war. Returning home I went on shore to see the Costome House, now newly rebuilt since the dreadfull conflagration.' 9 Oct. I went after evening service to London, in order to a journey of refreshment with Mr. Treasurer to Newmarket, where the Kuig then 1 One of the grand court-days of that opulent Company, which is one oUwelve. _ 2 This new edifice was again destroyed by fire in Feb. i8 14, and has been rebuilt in a very n^gnificent manner by Mr. Henry Peto, who contracted for the work at a price much .hort ol thstt propo<;«d by any other builder. 358 RACING AT NEWMARKET. MADEMOISELLE QUEROUAILLE. was. in his coach with 6 brave horses, which we changed thrice, first at Bishops Stortford and last at Chesterford, so as by night we got to New-market, where Mr. Henry Jermain (nephew to the Earle of St. Alban's) lodged me very civily. We went immediately to Court, the King and all the English gallants being there at their autumnal sports. Supp'd at the Lo. Chamberlaine's, and the next day after dinner I was on the heath, where I saw the greate match run between Woodcock and Fiatfoot, belonging to the King and to Mr. Eliot of the Bedchamber, many thousands being spectators ; and a more signal race had not ben run for many yeares. This over, I went that night with Mr. Treasurer to Euston, a palace of Lord Arlington's, where we found Monsieur Colbert (the French Am- bassador), and the famous new French Maid of Honor, M'lle Querou- aille, now coming to be in greate favour with the King. Here was also the Countesse of Sunderland, and severall Lords and Ladies, who lodged in the house. During my stay here with Lord Arlington neere a fortnight, his Majesty came almost every second day with the Duke, who commonly return'd to New-market, but the King often lay here, during which time I had twice the honor to sit at dinner with him, with all free- dome. It was universally reported that the faire Lady was bedded one of these nights, and the stocking flung, after the manner of a married bride ; I acknowledge she was for the most part in her undresse all day, and that there was fondnesse and toying with that young wanton ; nay, 'twas said I was at the former ceremony, but 'tis utterly false ; I neither saw nor heard of any such thing whilst I was there, tho' I had ben in her chamber, and all over that apartment late enough, and was myselfe observing all passages with curiosity enough. However 'twas with confidence believed she was first made a Misse, as they call these unhappy creatures, with all solemnity at this time. On Sunday a young Cambridge Divine preached an excellent sermon in the Chapell, the King and the Duke of York being present. 1 6, Came all the greate men from New-market, and other parts both of Suffolk and Norfolck, to make their court, the whole house fiU'd from 5ne end to the other with lords, ladys and gallants ; there was such a furnished table as I had seldome scene, nor any thing more splendid And free, so that for fifteen days there were entertained at least 200 people and halfe as many horses, besides servants and guards at infinite expence. In the morning we went hunting and hawking; in the afternoone, till almost morning, to cards and dice, yet I must say without noise, swearing, quarrell, or confusion of any sort. I, who was no gamester, had often discourse with the French Ambassador Colbert, and went some- times abroad on horseback with the ladys to take the aire, and now and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 359 then to hunting ; thus idly passing the time, but not without more often recesse to my pretty apartment, where I was quite out of all this hurry, and had leasure when I would, to converse with bookes, for there is no man more hospitably easy to be withall than my Lord Arlington, of whose particular friendship and kindness I had ever a more than ordi- nary share. His house is a very noble pile, consisting of 4 pavillions after the French, beside a body of a large house, and tho' not built al- together, but form'd of additions to an old house (purchas'd by his Lord- ship of one Sir T. Rookwood) yet with a vast expence made not onely capable and roomesome, but very magnificent and commodious, as well within as without, nor lesse splendidly furnish'd. The stayre-case is very elegant, the garden handsome, the canall beautifull, but the soile drie, barren and miserably sandy, which flies in drifts as the wind sits. Here my Lord was pleas'd to advise with me about ordering his plan- tations of firs, elmes, limes, &c. up his parke, and in all other places and avenues. I persuaded him to bring his park so neere as to compre- hend his house within it, which he resolv'd upon, it being now neere a mile to it. The water furnishing the fountaines is raised by a pretty engine, on very slight plaine wheels, which likewise serve to grind his corne, from a small cascade of the canall, the invention of Sir Sam. Moreland. In my Lord's house and especialy above the stayre-case, in the greate hall and some of the chambers and roomes of state, are paintings in fresco by Signer Verrio, being the first worke which he did in England. 17. My Lord Hen. Howard coming this night to visit my Lord Chamberlaine, and staying a day, would needes have me go with him to Norwich, promising to convey me back after a day or two ; this, as I could not refuse, I was not hard to be persuaded to, having a desire to see that famous scholar and physitian Dr. T. Browne, author of the *Religio Medici,' and ' Vulgar Errors' &c. now lately knighted. Thither then went my Lord and I alone in his flying chariot with 6 horses ; and by the way, discoursing with me of severall of his concernes, he ac- quainted me of his going to marry his eldest sonn to one of the King's natural daughters by the Uutchesse of Cleaveland, by which he reckon'd he should come into mighty favour. He also told me that tho' he kept that idle creature Mrs. B \ and would leave ^^200 a yeare to the sone he had by her, he would never marry her, and that the Kmg him- selfe had caution'd him against it. But all the world knows how he kept this promise. ^ Being come to the Ducal Palace, my Lord made very much ot me, but I had little rest, so exceeding desirous he was to shew me tl^e con- trivance he had made for the entertainment of their Majesties and the whole Court not long before, and which, tho' much of it was but tem- porary, apparently fram'd of boards only, were yet standing. As to 1 Bickerton, sec afterwards, under 1678, Jan. a- 4 August. 36o SIR THOMAS BROWN. CITY OF NORVHCH. THEIR STUFF TRADE. the Palace, it is an old wretched building, and that part of it newly built of brick is very ill understood, so as I was of opinion it had ber much better to have demolish'd all, and set it up in a better place, than to proceede farther ; for it stands in the very Market place, and tho neere a river, yet a very narrow muddy one, and without any extent. Next morning I went to see Sir Tho. Browne (with whom I had some time corresponded by letter, tho' I had never seen him before). His whole house and garden being a paradise and cabinet of rarities, and that of the best collection, especialy medails, books, plants, and natural things. Amongst other curiosities Sir Thomas had a collection of the eggs of all the foule and birds he could procure, that country (especialy the promontary of Norfolck) being frequented, as he said, by severall kinds which seldome or never go farther into the land, as cranes, storkes, eagles, and variety of water-foule. He led me to see all the remarkable places of this ancient Citty, being one of the largest, and certainly, after London, one of the noblest of England, for its ven- erable Cathedrall, number of stately churches, cleanesse of the streetes, and buildings of flints so exquisitely headed and squared as I was much astonish'd at ; but he told me they had lost the art of squaring the flints, in which they once so much excell'd, and of which the churches, best houses, and walls, are built. The Castle is an an- tique extent of ground, which now they call Marsfield, and would have ben a fitting area to have plac'd the Ducal palace in. The suburbs are large, the prospects sweete, with other amenities, not omitting the flower gardens, in which all the inhabitants excel. The fabric of stuffs brings a vast trade to this populous towne. Being return'd to my Lord's, who had ben with me all this morning, he advis'd with me concerning a plot to rebuild his house, having already as he said erected a front next the streete, and a left wing, and now resolving to set up another wing and pavilion next the garden, and to convert the bowling-greene into stables. My advice was, to desist from all, and to meditate wholly on rebuilding an handsome palace at Arur.dell House in the Strand, before he proceeded farther here, and then to place this in the castle ground belonging to his Lordship. I observed that most of the Church-yards (tho' some of them large enough) were filled up with earth, or rather the congestion cf dead bodys one upon another, for want of earth, even to the very top of the walls, and some above the walls, so as the Churches seemed to be built in pitts. 1 8 Oct. I return'd to Euston in my Lord's coach, leaving him at Norwich, in company with a very ingenious gentleman, Mr. White, whose father and mother (daughter to the late Lord Treassurer Weston, Earl of Portland) I knew at Rome, where this gentleman was borne, ?.nd where his parents hved and died with much reputation, during Iheii banishment in our civil broils. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 361 2\ leaving Eii-ton, I lodged this night at New-market, where 1 found the jolly blades raceing, dauncing, feasting, and revelling, moro resembling a luxurious and abandon'd rout, than a Christian Court. The Duke of Buckingham was now in mighty favour, and had with him that impudent woman the Countess of Shrewsbury, with his band of fiddlers, &c. Next morning, in company with Sir Bernard Gascoyne and Lord Hawly, I came in the Treassurers coach to Bishop Stortford, where he gave us a noble supper. Next day to London, and so home. 14 Nov. To Council, where Sir Cha. Wheeler, late Governor of the Leeward Islands, having ben complain'd of for many indiscreete ma- nagements, it was resolv'd, on scanning many ot the particulars, to advise his Majesty to remove him, and consult what was to be don to prevent these inconveniences he had brought things to. This businesse staide me in London almost a weeke, being in Council or Committee every morning till the 25th. 27. We ordered that a Proclamation should be presented to his Majesty to signe, against what Sir Charles Wheeler had don in St. Christopher's, since the war, on the articles of peace at Breda. He was shortly afterwards recalled. 6 Dec. Came to visite me Sir William Haywood, a greate pretender to English antiquities. 14. Went to see the Duke of Buckingham's ridiculous farce and rhapsody, called 'The Recital," buffooning all formal plays, yet propharie enough. 23. The Councillors of the Board of Trade din'd together at the Cock in Sirffolck streete. 1672, 12 Jan. His Majesty renewed us our lease of Sayes Court pas- tures for 99 yeares, but ought, according to his solemn promise * (as I hope he will still perform), have passed them to us in fee farme. 23. To London, in order to Sir Richard Browne, my father in law, resigning his place of Gierke of the Council to Joseph Williamson, Esq. who was admitted and was knighted. This place his Majesty had promis'd to give me many yeares before ; but upon consideration of the renewal of our lease and other reasons, I chose to part with it to Sir Joseph, who gave us and the rest of his brother clearks a handsome supper at his house, and after supper a consort of music. 3 February. An extraordinary snow : part of the weeke was taken up in consulting about the commission of prisoners of ^'a"' structions to our officers, in order to a second war with the Hollanders his Majesty having made choice of the former Commissioners and my self e amongst them. . ^ n. In the afternoone that famous proselyte, Monsieur Brevall, 1 This must mean his play of ' 'I'hc Rehearsal.' « The King's engagement under his hand is now at Wot ton 362 d??:ath of dr. rreton, our pastor, war with Holland. preach'd at the Abby, in English, extreamly well and with much elo- quence. He had ben a Capuchine, but was much better learned than most of that order. 12. At the Council we enter'd on enquiries about improving the Plantations by silks, galls, flax, senna, &c. and consider'd how nutmegs and cinnamon might be obtain'd and brought to Jamaica, that soile and cHmate promising successe. Dr. Worsley being call'd in, spake many considerable things to encourage it. We tooke order to send to the Plantations that none of their ships should adventure homeward single, but stay for company and convoys. We also deliberated on some fit person to go as Commissioner to inspect their actions in New England, and from time to time report how that people stood affected. — In future to meete at White-hall. 20. Dr. Parr of Camerwell preach'd a most pathetic funebral dis- course and panegyric at the interment of our late pastor. Dr. Breton (who died on the i8th), on ' Happy is the servant whom when his Lord Cometh, &c.' This good man, among other expressions profess'd that he had never ben so touch'd and concern 'd at any losse as at this, unlesse at that of K. Charles our Martyr, and Archbishop Usher, whose chap- laine he had ben. Dr. Breton had preach'd on the 28th and 30th Jan. : on the Friday, having fasted all day, making his provisionary sermon for the Sunday following, he went well to bed, but was taken suddenly ill, and expir'd before help could come to him. Never had a parish a greater losse, not onely as he was an excellent preacher, and fitted for our greate and vulgar auditory, but for his ex- cellent life and charity, his meeknesse and obliging nature, industrious helpfull, and full of good workes. He left neere ^400 to the poore in his will, and that what children of his should die in their minority, their portion should be so employed. I lost in particular a special friend, and one that had an extraordinary love to me and mine. 25. To London, to speake with the Bishop and Sir John Cutler our patron, to present Mr. Frampton (afterwards Bishop of Gloucester.) I March. A full Council of Plantations, on the danger of the Lee- ward Islands, threaten'd by the French, who had taken some of our ships, and began to interrupt our trade. Also in debate, whether the new Governor of St. Christopher's should be subordinate to the Gover- nor of Barbados. The debate was serious and long. 12. Now was the first blow given by us to the Dutch convoy of the Smyrna fleete, by Sir Robert Holmes and Lord Ossorie, in which we received little save blows, and a worthy reproch for attacking our neigh- bours ere any war was proclaim'd, and then pretending the occasion to be, that some time before, the Merlin yacht chanceing to saile thro' the whole Dutch fleete, their Admiral did not strike to that trifling vessel Surely this was a quarrel slenderly grounded, and not becoming ^^hnstian neighbours. We are like to thrive accordingly. Lord Ossorie THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 363 several times deplor'd to me his being engaged in it ; he had more jus- tice and honour than in the least to approve of it, tho' he had ben over persuaded to the expedition. There is no doubt but we should have surpris'd this exceeding rich fleete, had not the avarice and ambition of Holmes and Sprag separated themselves and wilfully divided our fleete, on presumption that either of them was strong enough to deale with the Dutch convoy without joyning and mutual help ; but they so warmly plied our divided fleets, that whilst in conflict the merchants sail'd away, and got safe into Holland. A few dales before this, the Treasurer of the Household, Sir Tho. Cliff"ord,' hinted to me, as a confident, that his Majesty would shut up the Exchequer (and accordingly his Majesty made use of infinite trea- sure there, to prepare for an intended rupture) ; but, says he, it will soone be open againe and every body satisfied ; for this bold man, who had ben the sole adviser of the King to invade that sacred stock (tho' some pretend it was Lord Ashley's counsel, then Chancellor of the Exchequer), was so over confident of the successe of this unworthv designe against the Smyrna merchants, as to put his Majesty on ai action which not onely lost the hearts of his subjects, and ruined many widdows and orphans whose stocks were lent him, but the reputation of his Exchequer for ever, it being before in such credit, that he might have commanded halfe the wealth of the Nation. The credit of this bank being thus broken did exceedingly discontent the people, and never did his Majestys affairs prosper to any purpose after it, for as it did not supply the expence of the meditated war, so it mealted away, I know not how. To this succeeded the King's declaration for an universal toUeration ; 1 The following is taken from King James's Life by himself: ' On the King's intention to have a Lord Treasurer (1672) instead of putting the Seals into Commission, the Duke of York desired Lord Arlington to join with him in proposing to the King the Lord Clifford for that considerable employment ; but he found Lord Arlington very cold in it, and endeavouring to persuade the Duke that the King did not intend the alteration, and the next day he employed a friend to press the Duke to endeavour to get Sir Robert Car to be Commissioner in the room of Lord Shaftesbury (then appointed Lord Chancellor). ' Some few days after, the Duke proposed to his Majesty the Lord Clifford as Treasurer which was well received, and he said he would do it, as thinking no body fitter ; he also told the Duke that Lord Arlington had a mind to have that Staff : but he answered hmi th^ he had too much kindness for him to let him have it, for he knew he was not fit for the office; and should he give it him. it would be his ruin. A little after the Kmg told the Duke that he found Lord Arlington was angry with Lord Clifford, on knowing that he was to have the place ; and desired the Duke to persuade Lord Arlington not to let the world see his discon- tent, and to endeavour to make them continue friends. They promised the Duke to Uve friendly together, but Lord Arlington kept not his word, and w.is ever after cold, if not worse, ^^'^Christo^Is coming on, the King spake to Lord Clifford and Lord Arundel ^i" ^ardour to persuade the Duke to receive the Sacrament with him at that time (which ^^^^"Jf ^^jl^ borne for several months before). They urged the King not to press it, he then seem^^^^^ satisfied ; but the day before Christmas Eve, the King spoke again to Lord Clifford to repre- sent to the Duke what he had before said, which the Lord Clifford did, but found the Duk. >yas not to be moved in his resolution of not going against his conscence. 364 THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND. TILBURY FORT. MISERIES OF WAR. Papists and swarms of Sectaries now boldly shewing themselves in their publiq meetings. This was imputed to the same council, Clifford warping to Rome as was believ'd, nor was Lord Arlington cleare of suspicion, to gratific that party, but as since it has prov'd, and was then evidently foreseen, to the extreame v/eakening the Church of England and its Episcopal Government, as 'twas projected. I speake not this s my owne sense, but what was the discourse and thoughts of others 'ho were lookers on ; for I think there might be some relaxations without the least prejudice to the present establishment, discreetly jmited, but to let go the reines in this manner, and then to imagine they could take them up againe as easily, was a false politiq and greately destructive. The truth is, our Bishops slip'd the occasion, foi had they held a steady hand upon his Majesty's restauration, as they might easily have don, the Church of England had emerg'd and flou- rish'd without interruption ; but they were then remisse, and covetous after advantages of another kind, whilst his Majesty suffer'd them to come into an harvest, with which, without any injustice, he might have rumunerated innumerable gallant gentlemen for their services, who had ruin'd themselves in the late Rebellion.^ 21 Mar. I visited the coasts in my district of Kent, and divers wounded and languishing poore men that had ben in the Smyrna con- flict. I went over to see the new-begun fort of Tilbury ; a royal work indeede, and such as will one day bridle a greate Citty to the purpose, before they are aware. 23. Capt. Cox, one of the Commissioners of the Navy, furnishing me with a yatcht, I sail'd to Sheerc-nesse to see that Fort also, now newly finished ; severall places on both sides the Swale and Medway to Gillingham and Upnore, being also provided with redouts and bat- teries, to secure the station of our men of war at Chatham, and shut the doore when the steedes were stolen. 24. I saw the chirurgeon cut off the leg of a wounded sailor, the stout and gallant man enduring it with incredible patience, without being bound to his chaire as usual on such painfull occasions. I had hardly courage enough to be present. Not being cut off high enough, the gangreen prevail'd, and the second operation cost the poore crea- ture his life. Lord ! what miseries are mortal men subject to, and what confusion and mischcif do the avarice, anger and ambition of Princes cause in the world ! 25. I proceeded to Canterbury, Dovei, Deal, the Isle of Thanet, >y Sandwich, and so to Margate. Here we had aboundance of mise- •ably wounded men, his Majesty sending his cheife chirurgeon, Serjeant » This means the fines for renewals of leases not filled up during the Interresnum, and now to be immediately applied for. Bishop Burnet says they were much misapplied. Hist, of his own Time, I. 304. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 365 Knight, to meete me, and Dr. Waldrondhad attended nie all the jour- ney. Having taken order for the accomodation of the wounded, I came back thro' a country the best cultivated of any that in my hfe I had any where seene, every field lying as even as a bowling-greene, and the fences, plantations, and husbandry in such admirable order as in- finitely delighted me after the sad and afflicting spectacles and objects I was come from. Observing almost every tall tree to have a weather- cock on the top bough, and some trees half a dozen, I learn'd that on a certaine holyday the farmers feast their servants, at which solemnity they set up these cocks in a kind of triumph. Being come back towards Rochester, I went to take order about building a strong and high wall about a house I had hired of a gentle- man at a place call'd Hartlip, for a prison, paying 50/. yearly rent. Here I settled a Provost Martial and other Officers, returning by Fe- versham. On the 30th heard a Sermon in Rochester Cathedrall, & so got to Sayes Court on the first of Aprill. 4 April. I went to see the fopperies of the Papists at Somerset House and York House, where now the French Ambassador had caus'd to be represented our Blessed Saviour at the Paschal Supper with his Disciples, in figures and puppets made as big as the life, of wax-work, curiously clad and sitting round a large table, the roome nobly hung, and shining with innumerable lamps and candles : this was expos'd to all the world, all the Citty came to see it : such liberty had the Roman Cathohcs at this time obtain'd. 16. Sat in Council, preparing Lord Willougby's commission and instructions as Governor of Barbados and the Caribbe Islands. 17. Sat on business in the Star Chamber. 19. At Council, preparing instructions for Col. Staplcton, now to go Governor of St. Christopher's ; and heard the complaints of the Jamaica merchants against the Spaniards for hindering them from cutting Logwood on the maine land, where they have no pretence. 21. To my Lord of Canterbury, to entreate him to engage Sir John Cutler, the patron, to provide us a grave and learned man, in opposition to a novice. 30. Congratulated Mr. Treassurer Clifford's new honour, being made a Baron. 2 May. My sonn John was specially admitted of the Middle Temple by Sir Fra. North, his Majesties Solicitor General, and since Chancellor. I pray God bless this beginning, my intention being that he should seriously apply himself to the study of the Law. 10. I was order'd by letter from the Council to repair forthwith to his Majesty, whom I found in the Pal- Mai in St. James's Park, where his Majesty coming to me from the company, commanded me to go irnmediatcly to the sea coast, and to observe the motion of the Dutch Qeet and ours, the Duke and so many of the flower of our Nation bemg 366 VISIT THE COAST DEFENCES. ARRANGfi FOR PRISONERS COMING IN now under saile, coming from Portsmouth thro' the Downes, where 'twas believ'd there might be an encounter. II. Went to Chatham. — 12. Heard a Sermon in Rochestej Cathcdrall. 13. To Canterbury; visited Dr. Bargrave,^ my old fellow-travellei in Italy, & great virtuoso. 14. To Dover, but the fleet did not appear till the i6th, when the Duke of York with his and the French squadron, in all 170 ships (of which above 100 were men of war) sail'd by, after the Dutch, who were newly withdrawn. Such a gallant and formidable navy never, I think, spread saile upon the seas. It was a goodly yet terrible sight, to beh'i^ld them as I did, passing Eastward by the straights 'twixt Dover and Calais in a glorious day. The wind was yet so high that I could not wel go aboard, and they were soon got out of sight. The next day having visited our prisoners at the Castle, and saluted the Governor, I tooke horse for Margate. Here, from the North Foreland Light-house-top (which is a Pharos, built of bricq and having on the top a cradle of iron in which a man attends a greate sea-coal fire all the year long, when the nights are darke, for the safeguard of sailors) we could see our fleete as they lay at anker. The next morning they weighed, and sailed out of sight to the N. E. 19. Went to Margate ; and the following day was carried to see a gallant widow, brought up a farmoresse, and I think of gigantic race, rich, comely, and exceedingly industrious. She put me in mind of Debora and Abigail, her house was so plentifully stored with all man- ner of countrie provisions, all of her owne growth, and all her conve- niencies so substantial!, neate, and well understood ; she herselfe so jolly and hospitable ; and her land so trim and rarely husbanded that it struck me with admiration at her oeconomie. This towne much consists of Brewers of a certaine heady ale, and they deale much in mault, &c. For the rest, 'tis raggedly built, and has an ill haven, with a small fort of little concernment, nor is the island H^ell disciplin'd ; but as to the husbandry and rural part, far exceeding any part of England, for the accurate culture of their ground, in which they exceed, even to curiositie and emulation. We passed by Richborow, and in sight of Reculver, and so thro' a sweete garden as it were, to Canterbury. 24. To London, and gave his Majesty an account of my journey, and that I had put all things in readinesse upon all events, and so return'd home sufficiently wearied. 31, I receiv'd another command to repaire to the Sea-side ; so I went to Rochester, where I found many wounded, sick, and prisoners newly put on shore after the engagement on the 28th, in which the T of Canterbury a great benefactor to the Cathedral Library there. See in Todd'f L.1IC of MiUon " some curious particulars concerning him. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 35^ Earle of Sandwich, that incomparable person and mv particular friend and divers more whom I loved, were lost. Mv Lord (who was Admiral of the Blew) was in the Prince, which wr.^ urnt, one of the best men of war that ever spread canvass on the sea. There were lost with this brave man, a son of Sir Cha. Cotterell (Master of the Ceremonies), and a son of Sir Cha. Harbord (his Majesty's Surveyor-general), two valiant and most accomplish'd youths, full of virtue and courage, who might have saved themselves, but chose to perish with my Lord, whom they honour'd and loved above their own lives. Here I cannot but make some reflections on things past. It was not above a day or two that going to White-hall to take leave of his Lord- ship, who had his lodgings in the Privy Garden, shaking me by the hand to bid me God-by'e, and said he thought he should see me no more, and I saw to my thinking something boading in his countenance ; * No,' says he, * they will not have me live. Had I lost a fleete (meaning on his returne from Bergen when he tooke the East India prize) I should have fared better ; but be it as it pleases God— I must do something I know not what to save my reputation.' Something to this effect he had hinted to me ; thus I tooke my leave. I well remember that the Duke of Albemarle, and my now Lord Chfford, had, I know not why, no greate opinion of his courage, because in former conflicts, being an able and experienc'd seaman (which neither of them were), he always brought off his Majesty's ships without losse, tho' not without as many markes of true courage as the stoutest of them ; and I am a witnesse that in the late war his owne ship was pierc'd like a cullendar. But the buisinesse was, he was utterly against this war from the beginning, and abhorr'd the attacquing of the Smyrna fleete ; he did not favor the heady expedition of Clifford at Bergen, nor was he so furious and con- fident as was the Duke of Albemarle, who believed he could vanquish the Hollanders with one squadron. My Lord Sandwich was prudent as well as valiant, and allways govern'd his affairs with successe and little losse ; he was for deliberation and reason, they for action and slaughter without either, and for this, whisper'd as if my Lord Sand- wich was not so gallant because he was not so rash, and knew how fatal it was to loose a fleete, such as was that under his conduct, and for which these very persons would have censur'd him on the other side. This it was, I am confident, griev'd him and made him enter like a lion, and fight like one too, in the midst of the hottest service, where the stoutest of the rest seeing him engag'd and so many ships upon him, durst not, or would not, come to his succour, as some of them, whom I know, might have don. Thus this gallant person perish'd to gratifie the pride and envy of some I nam'd. Deplorable was the losse of one of the best accomplish'd persons, not onely of this Nation but of any other. He was learned m sea attaires, in politics, in mathematics, and in musiq ; he had been on 368 LOSS OF LORD SANDWICH. THE FLEETE AT THE NORE. divers embassies, was of a sweete and obliging temper, sober, chasL very ingenious, a true Nobleman, an ornament to the Court and loyal to his Prince, nor has he left any behind him who approch his many virtues. He had, I confesse, serv'd the tyrant Cromwell when a young man. but 'twas without malice, as a souldier of fortune ; and he readily sub- mitted, and that with joy, bringing an entire fleete with him from the Sound, at the first tidings of his Majestie's Restauration. I verily believe him as faithfull a subject as any that were not his friends. I am yet heanily griev'd at this mighty losse, nor do I call it to my thoughts without emotion. 2 June. Trinity Sonday I pass'd at Rochester ; and on the 5th there was buried in the Cathedral Mons. Rabiniere, reare Admiral of the French squadron, a gallant person, who died of the wounds he received in the fight. This ceremonie lay on me, which 1 perform'd with all the decency I could, inviting the Mayor and Aldermen to come in their formalities ; Sir Jonas Atkins was there with his guards ; and the Deane and Prebendaries : one of his countrymen pronouncing a funeral ora- tion at the brink of his grave, which I caus'd to be dug in the Quire. This Is more at large describ'd in the Gazette of that day. Col. Reymes, my colleague in Commission, assisting, who was so kind as to accompany me from London, tho' it was not his district, for indeede the stresse of both these warrs lay more on me by far than on any of my breathren, who had little to do in theirs. — I went to see Upnore Castle, which I found pretty well defended, but it was of no greate moment. Next day I sailed to the Fleete, now riding at the Buoy of the Nore, where I met his Majesty, the Duke, Lord Arlington, and all the greate men, in the Charles, lying miserably shatter'd ; but the misse of Lord Sandwich redoubl'd the losse to me, and shew'd the folly of hazarding so brave a fleete, and loosing so many good men for no provocation but that the Hollanders exceeded us in commerce and Industrie, and in all things but envy. At Sheernesse I gave his Majesty and his Royal Highness an account of my charge, and return'd to Queenborow ; next day dined at Major Dorels, Governor of Shere-nesse ; thence to Rochester, and the following day home. 12. To London to his Majesty, to solicite for mony for the sick and wounded, which he promised me. 19. To London againe, to solicit the same. 21. At a Council of Plantations. Most of this weeke busied with the sick and wounded. 3 July. To Lord Sandwich's funeral, which was by water to Westminster in solemn pomp. 31 1 entcrtaia'd the Maids 01 Honour (among whom there was THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 369 one 1 infinitely esteem'd for her many and extraordinary virtues) at a comedy this afternoone, and so went home.' I Aug. I was at the marriage of Lord Arlington's onely daughtei (a sweete child if ever there was any=) to the Duke of Grafton, the King's natural son by the Dutchesse of Cleaveland. The Abp. of Canterbury officiating, the King and all the grandees being present. I had a favour given me by my Lady, but tooke no greate joy at the thing for many reasons. i8. Sir James Hayes, Secretary to Prince Rupert, dined with me : after dinner I was sent for to Gravesend, to dispose of no fewer than 800 sick men. That night I got to the Fleete at the Buoy of the Nore, where I spake with the King and the Duke ; and after dinner next day return'd to Gravesend. I Sept. I spent this weeke in soliciting for monies, and in reading to my Lord Clifford my papers relating to the first Holland war. — Now our Council of Plantations met at Lord Shaftesbury's (Chancellor ol the Exchequer) to reade and reforme the Draught of our new Patent, joyning the Council of Trade to our political capacities. After this I returned home in order to another excursion to the Sea-side, to get as many as possible of the men who were recovered on board the Fleete. 8. I lay at Gravesend, thence to Rochester, returning on the nth. Dr. Duport, Greek Professor of Cambridge, preached before the King on i Timothy 6. 6. No greate preacher, but a very worthy and learned man. 25. I din'd at Lord John Eerkle/s (of Stratton), newly arriv'd out of Ireland, where he had ben Deputy; it was in his new house or rather palace, for I am assur'd it stood him in neere ^30,000. It is very well built, and has many noble roomes, but they are not very con- venient, consisting but of one Corps de Logis ; they are all roomes of state, without clossets. The staire-case is of cedar, the furniture is princely : the kitchen and stables are ill-placed, and the corridore worse, having no report to the wings they joyne to. For the rest, the fore court is noble, so are the stables, and above all, the gardens^ which are incomparable by reason of the inequalitie of the ground, and a pretty piscina. The holly hedges on the terrace I advised the planting of. The porticos are in imitation of an house described by Palladio, but it happens to be the worst in his booke, tho' my good friend Mr. riugh May, his Lordship's architect, effected it. 26. I carried with me to dinner my Lord H. Howard (now to be 1 Mrs. Blagg, whom he afterwards characterizes as a rare example of piety and virtue in iO rare a witt, beauty, and perfection, in a licentious court and depraved age. blie was aite- n^ards married to Mr. Godolphin. 2 She was then only 5 years old. . ^ii-vi 3 Berkley House was burnt to the ground by accident. The s.te was on ^l"* Hay-hill Farm, the names of which are preserved in Hay-street, .^'H-^treec Farm^ eet. Devonshire House. Lansdov. n House, Berkeley Square. S^c. are bu.lt on part of the groand. o t 370 LADY SUNDERLAND. THE FIRE-EATER. THE TWt> COUNCILS, made Earl of Norwich and Earl Marshall of England) to Sir Robert Clayton's, now Sheriff of London, at his new house \ where we had a greate feast ; it is built indeede for a greate Magistrate, at excessive tost. The cedar dining-roome is painted with the historic of the Gyants War, incomparably don by Mr. Streeter, but the figures are too neere the eye. 6 Oct. Dr. Thistlethwait preached at White-hall on 2 Apoc. 5. a young but good preacher. I received the blessed Communion, Dr. Blandford, Bp. of Worcester, and Deane of the Chapel, officiating. Dined at my Lord Cliffords with Lord Mulgrave, Sir Gilbert Talbot, and Sir Robert Holmes. 8. I tooke leave of my Lady Sunderland, who was going to Paris to my Lord, now Ambassador there. She made me stay dinner at Lei' cester House, and afterwards sent for Richardson the famous Fire- eater. He devour'd brimston on glowing coales before us, chewing and swallowing them ; he mealted a beere-glasse and eate it quite up ; then taking a live coale on his tongue, he put on it a raw oyster, the coal was blown on with bellows till it flam'd and sparkl'd in his mouth, and so rcmain'd till the oyster gaped and was quite boil'd ; then he mealted pitch and wax with sulphur, which he drank downe as it flamed ; I saw it flaming in his mouth a good while ; he also tooke up a thick piece of yron, such as laundresses use to put in their smoothing- boxes, when it was fiery hot, held it betweene his teeth, then in his hand, and threw it about like a stone, but this I observ'd he car'd not to hold very long ; then he stood on a small pot, and bending his body tooke a glowing yron with his mouth from betweene his feete, without touching the pot or ground with his hands ; with divers other pro- digious feates. 13. After sermon (being summon'd before) I went to my Lord Keeper's Sir Orlando Bridgeman at Essex House, where our new Patent was opened and read, constituting us that were of the Council of Plan- tations to be now of the Council of Trade also, both united. After the Patent was read, we all tooke our oathes and departed. 24. Met in Council, the Earle of Shaftesbury, now our President, swearing our Secretary and his Clearks, which was Mr. Lock, an excel- lent learned gentleman and student of Christ Church, Mr. Lloyd and Mr. Frowde. We dispatch'd a letter to Sir Tho. Linch, Governor of Jamaica, giving him notice of a design of the Dutch on that island. 1 Situate in the Old Jewry. Sir Robert built it to keep his shrievalty, which he did with great magnificence. It was for some years the residence of Mr. Samuel Sharp, an eminent surgeon, and was afterwards occupied {viz. from 1806 to the close of the year 181 1) by the London Institution for their library and reading rooms, previous to their temporary removal to King's Arms Yard, Coleman Street. This Literary Institution, established by Charter, is now finally settled in a new and splendid mansion, purposely erected by the pro- prietors, from a design by Mr. W. Brooks, on the North side of Moorfields (1818).— Streeter'» painimgs have been long placed in the family seat af the Claytons at Marden, near Godstone THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 37I 27. 1 went to heare that famous preacher Dr. Frampton at St. Giles's, on 39 Psalm 6. This Divine had been twice at Jerusalem, and was not onely a very pious an-d holy man, but excellent in the pulpit for the moving affections. 8 Nov. At Council we debated the buisinesse of the Consulage of Leghorne. I was of the Committee with Sir Humphrey Winch the Chaireman to examine the Lawes of his Majestys severall Plantations and Colonies in the West Indies, &c. 15. Many Merchants were summoned about the Consulage of Venice ; which caused greate disputes ; the most considerable thought it useless. This being the Queen Consort's birth-day, there was an extraordinarie appearance of gallantrie, and a ball daunced at Court. 30. I was chosen Secretary to the Royall Society. 21 Dec. Settl'd the Consulage of Venice. 1673. I ]^^' After publiq prayers in the Chapell at White-hall, when I gave God solemne thanks for all his mercies to me the yeare past, &c., and my humble supplications to him for his blessing the yeare now entering, I returned home, having my poore deceased servant (Adams) to bury, who died of pleurisie. 3. My sonn now publish'd his Version of ' Rapinus Hortorum.'i 28. Visited Don Francisco de Melos, the Portugal Ambassador, who shew'd me his curious Collection of Books and Pictures. He was a person of good parts, and a vertuous man. 6 Feb. To Council about reforming an abuse of the Diers with Saimdus and other false drougs ; examin'd divers of that trade. 23. The Bishop of Chichester' preach'd before the King on 2 Coloss. 14, 15. admirably well, as he can do nothing but what is well. 5 Mar. Our new Vicar Mr. H olden preach'd in White-hall Chapel on 4 Psalm 6, 7. This gentleman is a very excellent and universal scholar, a good and wise man, but he had not a popular way of preach- ing, nor is in any measure fit for our plaine and vulgar auditorie, as his predecessor was. There was, however, no comparison betwixt their parts for profound learning ; but time and experievice may forme him to a more practical way than that he is in of University lectures and erudition, which is now universally left off for what is much more profitable. 15. I heard the speech made to the Lords in their House by Sir Sam. Tuke in behalfe of the Papists, to take off the Penal Laws ; and then din'd with Col. Norwood. 16. Dr. Pearson, Bishop of Chester,3 preach'd on 9th Hebrews 14; 1 Of Gardens. Four Books. First'written in Latin verse, by Renatus Rapinus. and now made English. By I. E. London, 1673. Dedicated to Henry Earle of Arlmgton &c ^ Dr. Peter Gunning, formerly Master of St. John's College Cambridge -^'--^^^ f^^J of Ely. Burnet says of him that he was a man of great reading, a very honest, sincere man. but of no sound judgment. Hist, of his own Times, L 297. » Well known by his valuable Exposition of the Creed. 37?- SWORN A YOUNGER BROTHER OF THE TRINITY HOUSE. a most incomparable sermon from one of the most learned Divines of our Nation. I din'd at my Lord Arlington's with the Duke and Dutchesse of Monmouth ; she is one of the wisest and craftiest of her sex, and has much witt. Here was also the learned Isaac Vossius. During Lent there is constantly the most excellent preaching by the most eminent Bishops and Divines of the Nation. 26 Mar. I was sworn a younger brother of the Trinity House, with my most worthy and long acquamted noble friend Lord Ossorie (eldest son to the Duke of Ormond), Sir Richard Browne my father-in-law being now Master of that Society ; after which there was a greate collation. 29. I carried my sonn to the Bishop of Chichester, that learned and pious man, Dr. Peter Gunning,^ to be instructed by him before he receiv'd the holy sacrament, when he gave him most excellent advice, which I pray God may influence and remain with him as long as he lives ; and O that I had been so blessed and instructed when first I was admitted to that sacred ordinance ! 30. Easter Day : myself and sonn receiv'd the blessed communion, it being his first time, and with that whole week's more extraordinary preparation. I beseech God make him a sincere good Christian, whilst I endeavour to instill into him the feare and love of God, and discharge the duty of a father. At the sermon cora?n Re^e, preached by Dr. Sparrow, Bp. of Exceter, to a most crowded auditorie, I staied to see whether according to cos- tome the Duke of York receiv'd the communion with the King ; but he did not, to the amazement of every body. This being the second yeare he had forborne and put it off, and within a day of the Parliament sitting, who had lately made so severe an Act against the increase of Poperie, gave exceeding griefe and scandal to the whole Nation, that the heyre of it, and the sonn of a Martyr for the Protestant religion, should apostatize. What the consequence of this will be, God onely knows, and wise men dread. 1 1 April. I dined with the Plenipotentiaries designed for the Treaty of Nimeguen. 17. I carried Lady Tuke to thank the Countesse of Arlington for speaking to his Majesty in her behalfe, for being one of the Oueene Consort's women. She carried us up into her new dressing-roome at Goring House, where was a bed, 2 glasses, silver jars and vases, cabi- nets, and other so rich furniture as I had seldom seene ; to this excesse of superfluity were we now ariv'd, and that not onely at Court, but al- most universally, even to wantonesse and profusion. Dr. Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, preached on I Corinth: 11-16. shewing the Churches power in ordaining things See Note in preceding page. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 373 indifTcicnt ; this worthy person's talent is not preaching, but he is like to make a grave and serious good man.' I saw her Majesty's rich toylet in her dressing roome, being aU of massie gold, presented to her by the King, valued at 4000/. 26. Dr. Lamplugh preached at St. Martine's, the holy Sacrament following which I partook of, upon obligation of the late Act of Parlia- ment, enjoyning every body in olfice, civil or mihtarie, under penalty of 500/. to receive it within one moneth before two authentiq witnesses ; being engrossed on parchment, to be afterwards produced in the Court of Chancery, or some other Court of Record ; which I did at the Chancery Barr, as being one of the Council of Plantations and Trade ; taking then also the Oath of Allegiance and Supremacy, signing the clause in the said Act against Transubstantiation. 25 May. My sonn was made a younger Brother of the Trinity House. The new Master was Sir Jer. Smith, one of the Commissioners of the Navy, a stout seaman who had interpos'd and saved the Duke from perishing by a fire-ship in the late warr. 28. I carried one Withers, an ingenious shipwright, to the King, to shew him some new method of building. 29. I saw the Italian Cornedie at the Court this afternoone. 10 June. Came to visite and dine with me, my Lord Viscount Corn- bury and his Lady ; Lady Frances Hyde, sister to the Dutchcsse of York ; and Mrs. Dorothy Howard, Mayd of Honour. We went after dinner to see the formal and formidable camp on Blackheath, raised to invade Holland, or, as others suspected, for another designe. Thence to the Italian Glass-house at Greenewich, where glasse was blown of finer mettal than that of Murano at Venice. 13. Came to visit us, with other ladies of rank, Mrs. Sedley,' daughter to Sir Chafes, who was none of the most virtuous, but a witt. 19. Congratulated the new Lord Treasurer, Sir Tho. Osborne, a gentleman with whom I had ben intimately acquainted at Paris, and who was every day at my father-in-law's house and table there, on which account I was too confident of succeeding in his favour, as I had don in his predecessor's ; but such a friend shall I never find, and I neglected my time, far from believing that my Lord Chfford would have so rashly laide down his statTe as he did, to the amazement of all the world, when it came to the test of his receiving the communion, which I am confident he forbore more from some promise he had en- ter'd into to gratifie the Duke, than for any prejudice to the Protestant rehgion, tho' I found him wavering a pretty while. 23. To London, to accompanie our Council, who went in a body ' H^.nn-, sixth son of the second Earl of Northampton, educated at Oxford, was a comej in Lord Oxford's regiment of guards, took orders, and was successively Bishop of Uxlordanc London, in which last See he died, 171 3, aged 81. tn r. t The Duke of York's mistress, and afterwards created hy h.m Countess of Dorctester. 3? 4 FUNERAL OF SIR ROBT. MURRAY. PICTURES AT GUILDHALU to congratulate the new Lord Treasurer, no friend to it, because prO' moted by my L. Arlington, whom he hated. 26. Came visitors from Court to dine with me, and see the army still remaining encamped on Black-heath. 6 July. This evening I went to the funerall of my deare and excel- lent friend, that good man and accomplished gentleman, Sir Robert Murray/ Secretary of Scotland. He was buried by order of his Majesty in Westminster Abbey. 25. I went to Tunbridge Wells to visite my Lord Clifford, late Lord Treasurer, who was there to divert his mind more than his body ; it was believ'd that he had so engag'd himselfe to the Duke, that rather than take the test, without which he was not capable of holding any office, he would resigne that greate and honourable station. This I am confident griev'd him to the heart, and at last broke it ; for tho' he carried with him musiq and people to divert him, and when I came to see him, lodged me in his own apartment, and would not let me go from him, I found he was struggling in his mind, and being of a rough and ambitious nature, he could not long brooke the necessitie he had brought on himselfe, of submission to this conjuncture. Besides he saw the Dutch warr, which was made much by his advise, as well as the shutting up of the Exchequer,^ very unprosperous. These things his high spirit could not support. Having staied here two or three daies, I obtain'd leave of my Lord to returne. In my way I saw my Lord of Dorset's house at Knowle, near Seven- oaks, a greate old-fashion'd house. 30. To Council, where the business of transporting wool was brought before us. 31. I went to see the pictures of all the Judges and eminent men of the long robe, newly painted by Mr. Wright, and set up in Guild- hall, costing the Citty 1000/. Most of them are very like the persons they represent, tho' I never took Wright to be any considerable artist. 13 Aug. I rid to Durdans, where I din'd at my Lord Berkley's of Berkeley Castle, my old and noble friend, it being his wedding an- niversarie, where I found the Dutchesse of Albemarle and much com- panic, and return'd home that evening late. 15. Came to visit me my Lord Chancellor, the Earle of Shaftesbury. 18. My Lord Clifford being about this time return'd from Tun- bridge, and preparing for Devonshire, I went to take my leave of him at Wallingford House ; he was packing up pictures, most of which were of hunting wild beasts, and vast pieces of bull-baiting, beare- ^ He was universally beloved and esteemed by men of all sides and sorts. The life and soul of the Royal Society. He delighted in every occasion of doing good. He had a supe- riority of geniiis and comprehension. Burnet, vol. I. p. go. » Burnet .says the Earl of Shaftesbury was the chief man in this advice. There is a story, though I do not recollect the author, that Shaftesbury formed the plan, that Clifford got atil over a bottle of wine, and carried it to tlie King aS his ovn. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 371- baiting, &c. I found him in his study, and restored to him several papers of state and others of importance, which he had furnished me with, on engaging me to write the Historie of the Holland War, with other private letters of his acknowledgments to my Lord Arlington, who from a private gentleman of a very noble family, but inconsider- able fortune, had advanced him from almost nothing. The first thing was his being in Parliament then knighted, then made one of the Commissioners of the sick and wounded, on which occasion we sate long together ; then on the death of Hugh Pollard, he was made Comptroller of the Household and Privy Counselor, yet still my brother Commissioner ; after the death of Lord Fitz-Harding, Treasurer of the Household, he by letters to Lord Arlington, which that Lord shew'd me, begg'd of his Lordship to obtaine it for him as the very height of his ambition ; these were written with such submissions and profes- sions of his patronage, as I had never seen any more acknowledging. The Earle of Southampton then dying, he was made one of the Com- missioners of the Treasury. His Majestie inclining to put it into one hand, my Lord Clifford, under pretence of making all his interest for his patron my Ld. Arlington, cutt the grasse under his feet, and procur'd it for himself, assuring the King that Lord Arlington did not desire it. Indeede my Lord Arlington protested to me that his confidence in Lord Clifford made him so remisse, and his affection to him was so particular, that he was absolutely minded to devolve it on Lord Clif- iford, all the world knowing how he himselfe affected ease and quiet, now growing into yeares, yet little thinking of this go-by. This was the onely greate ingratitude Lord Clifford shew'd, keeping my Lord Arlington in ignorance, continually assuring him he was pursuing his interest, which was the Duke s, into whose greate favour Lord Clif- ford was now gotten, but which certainly cost him the losse of all, namely, his going so irrevotably far in his interest. For the rest, my Lord Clifford was a valiant uncorrupt gentleman, ambitious, not covetous ; generous, passionate, a most constant sincere friend, to me in parti- cular, so as when he layd downe his office, I was at the end of all my hopes and endeavours; these were not for high matters, but to obtain what his Majesty was really indebted to my father-in-law, which was the utmost of my ambition, and which I had undoubtedly ob- tained if this friend had stood. Sir Tho. Osborn, who succeeded him, tho' much more oblig'd to my father-in-law and his family, and my long and old acquaintance, being of a more haughty and far lesse obliging nature, I could hope for little ; a man of excellent natural parts, but nothing of generous or grateful. Taking leave of my Lord Clifford, he wrung me by the hand, and looking earnestly on me, bid me God-b'ye, addmg, 'Mr. E. I shal never see thee more ' No ! ' ?aid I, ' my Lord, what's the meaning of this ? I hope I shall see you often, and as grfeate a person agame. 376 SUICIDE OF LORD CLIFFORD. HIS ORIGIN AND PROSPERITY. 'No, Mr. E. do not expect it, I will never see this pi? ce, this '!;ttv or Court againe,' or words of this sound. In this manuv,;* not hh'^ out almost mutual tears, I parted from him : nor was it long fter, out the newes was that he was dead, and I have heard from some who I believe knew, he made himself away, after an extraordinary melan- choly. This is not confidently aftirm'd, but a servant who lived in the house, and afterwards with Sir Robt. Clayton, Lord Mayor, did, as well a« others, report it ; and when I hinted some such thing to Mr. Prideaux, one of his trustees, he was not willing to enter into that discourse. It was reported with these particalars ; that causing his servant to leave him unusually one morning, locking himselfe in, he strangled himselfe with his cravatt upon the bed-tester ; his servanc not liking the manner of dismissing him, and looking thro' the key-hole (as I remember), and seeing his master hanging, brake in before he was quite dead, and taking him downe, vomiting a greate deale of bloud, he was heard to utter these words, 'Well, let men say what they will, there is a God, a just God above,' after which he spake no more. This, if true, is dismal. Really he was the cheife occasion of the Dutch warr, and of all that bloud which was lost at Bergen in at- taquing the Smyrna fleete, and that whole quarrell. This leads me to call to mind what my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury affirm'd, not to me onely, but to all my brethren the Councel of forraine plantations, when not long after this accident being mention'd as we were one day sitting in Councel, his Lordship told us this remarkeable passage ; that being one day discoursing with him when he was only Sir Tho. Clifford, speaking of men's advancement to greate charges in the Nation, ' Well,' says he, ' my Lord, I shall be one of the greatest men in England. Don't impute what I say either to fancy or vanity ; I am certaine that I shall be a mighty man, but it will not last long ; I shall not hold it, but dye a bloudy death.' ' What,' says my Lord, * your horoscope tells you so?' 'No matter for that, it will be as I tell you.' ' Well,' says my Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, ' if I were of that opinion, I either would not be a greate man, but decline prefer- ment, or prevent my danger.' This my Lord affirmed in my hearing before severall gentlemen and noblemen sitting in Council at White- hall. And I the rather am confident of it, remembering what Sir Edw. Walker (Garter King at Ai-mes) had likewise affirm'd to me a long time before, even when he was first made a Lord ; that carrying his pedigree to Lord Clifford on his being created a Peer, and finding him busy, he bid him go into his study and divert himself there till he was at leisure to discourse with him about some things relating to his family ; there lay, said Sir Edward, on his table, his horoscope and nativity calculated, with some writing under it, where he read that he should be ;idvanc'd to the highest degree in the State that could be con- fcrr'd upon him, but that he should not long enjoy it, hut should die^ THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 377 or expressions to that sense : and I think (but cannot confidently say) a bloudy death. This Sir Edward affirm'd both to me and Sir Rich. Browne, nor could I forbeare to note this extraordinary passage in '.hese memoires. 14 Sept. Dr. Creighton, son to the late eloquent Bishop of Bath and Wells, preached to the Household on 57 Isaiah 8. 15. I procured 4000/. of the Lords of the Treasury, and rectified divers matters about the sick and wounded. 16. To Council, about choosing a new Secretary. 17. I went with some friends to visit Mr. Bernard Grenville at Abs Court in Surrey ; an old house in a pretty parke. 23. I went to see Paradise, a roome in Hatton Garden furnished with the representations of all sorts of animals handsomely painted on boards or cloth, and so cut out and made to stand, move, fly, crawl, roare, and make their severall cries. The man who shewed it made us laugh heartily at his formal poetrie. 15 Oct. To Council, and swore in Mr. Locke, secretary, Dr. Wors- ley being dead. 27. To Council, about sending succours to recover New York ; and then we read the Commission and Instructions to Sir Jonathan Atkins, the New Governor of Barbados. 5 Nov. This night the youths of the Citty burnt the Pope in effi- gie, after they had made procession with it in greate triumph, they being displeas'd at the Duke for altering his religion and marrying an Italian lady.' On St. Andrew's Day I first saw the new Dutchesse of York, and the Dutchesse of Modena her mother. I Dec. To Gressham College, whither the Citty had invited the Royal Society by many of their clieife Alderman and Magistrates, who gave us a collation, to welcome us to our first place of assembly, from whence we had ben driven to give place to the Citty, on their making it their Exchange, on the dreadfull conflagration, till their new Ex- change was finish'd, which it now was. The Society having till now ben entertained and met at Arundel House. 2. I dined with some friends, and visited the sick : thence to an almes-house where was prayers and reliefe, some very ill and miserable. It was one of the best daies I ever spent in my lif(* 3. There was dinner at my Lord Lockart, design'd Ambassador foi France, a gallant and a sober person. . 9. I saw againe the Italian Dutchesse and her brother the Pnnce Reynaldo. , , 20. I had some discourse with certaine strangers, not unlearned, who had ben born not far from old Nineveh ; they assur d me of the mines being still extant, and vast and wonderfull were the buildings 'The Pr.ncess Mary Be.trvce DEste. danuhler of the Dul-e of Modena. 378 CAREER AND SUCCESS OF SIR JOSEPH WILLIAMSON. vaults, pillars, and magnificent fragments ; but they could say little of the Toure of Babel that satisfied me : but the description of the amoenitie and fragrancy of the country for health and cherefulnesse delighted me, so sensibly they spake of the excellent aire and climate in respect of our cloudy and splenetic country. 24. Visited some prisoners at Ludgate, taking orders about the re- leasing of some. 30. I gave Almighty God thanks for his infinite goodnesse to me the yeare past, and begged his mercie and protection the yeare fol- lowing : afterwards invited my neighbours to spend the day with me. 1674, 5 Jan. I saw an Italian Opera in musiq, the first that had ben in England of this kind. 9. Sent for by his Majesty to write something against the Hol- landers about the duty of the Flag and Fisherie. Return'd with some papers. 25 March. I dined at Knightsbridge with the Bishops of Salisbury, Chester, and Lincoln, my old friends. 29 May. His Majestie's birth-day and Restauration. Mr. Demal- hoy, Roger L'Estrange, and severall of my friends, came to dine with me on the happy occasion. 27 June. Mr. Dryden, the famous Poet and now Laureat, came to give me a visite. It was the anniversarie of my marriage, and the first day I went into my new little cell and cabinet, which I built below towards the South court, at the East end of the parlor. 9 July. Paid £.360 for purchase of Dr. Jacomb's son share in the mill and land at Deptford, which I bought r the Beechers. 22. I went to Windsor with my wife and ^onn to see my daughter Mary, who was there with my Lady Tuke, and to do my duty to his Majesty. Next day to a greate entertainment at Sir Robert Holmes's at Cranburn Lodge in the Forest ; there were his Majesty, the Queene, Duke, Dutchesse, and all the Court. I return'd in the evening with Sir Joseph Williamson, now dcclar'd Secretary of State. He was sonn of a poore clergyman somewhere in Cumberland, brought up at Queen's Coll. Oxford, of which he came to be a fellow ; then travell'd with and returning when the King was restor'd, was received as a Cleark under Mr. Secretary Nicholas ; Sir Henry Bennett (now Lord Arlington) succeeding, Williamson is transferr'd to him, who loving his ease more than businesse (tho' sufficiently able had he appHcd himsclfe to it) remitted all to his man Williamson, and in a short time let him so into the seacret of affaires, that (as his Lordship himsclfe told me) there was a kind of necessity to advance him ; and so by his subtlety, dexterity, and insinuation, he got now to be prin- cipal Secretary ; absolutely Lord Arlington's creature, and ungralefull enough. It has ben the fate of this obliging favorite to advance those who soone forgot their original. Sir Joseph was a musitian, could play THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 379 at Jc'u de Goblets, exceeding formal, a severe master to his servants, but so inward with my Lord Obrien, th;U after a few moneths of that gentleman's death, he married his widow,' who, being sister and heire of the Duke of Richmond, brought him a noble fortune. 'Twas thought they liv'd not so kindly after marriage as they did before. She was much censur'd for marrying so meanly, being herselfe allied to the Royal family. 6 Aug. I went to Groombridge to see my old friend Mr. Packer, the house built within a moate, in a woody valley. The old house had ben the place of confinement of the Duke of Orleans, taken by one Waller (whose house it then was) at the Battle of Agincourt, now demolish'd, and a new one built in its place, tho' a far better situation had ben on the South of the wood, on a graceful ascent. At some small distance is a large chapcll, not long since built by Mr. Packer's father, on a vow he made to do it on the return of King Charles I. out of Spaine, 1625, and dedicated to St. Charles, but what saint there was then of that name I am to seeke, for, being a Protestant, I conceive it was not Borromeo. I went to see my farme at Ripe neere Lewes. 19. His Majesty told me how exceedingly the Dutch were dis- pleased at my treatise of the ' Historic of Commerce ; that the Hol- land Ambassador had complain'd to him of what I had touch'd of the Flags and Fishery, &c. and desired the booke might be call'd in ; whilst on the other side he assur'd me he was exceedingly pleas'd with what I had done, and gave me many thanks. However, it being just upon conclusion of the treaty of Breda (indeed it was design'd to have ben publish'd some moneths before, and when we were at defiance), his Majesty told me he must recall it formally, but gave order that what copies should be publiqly seiz'd to pacific the Ambassador, should im- mediately be restored to the Printer, and that neither he nor the vendor should be molested. The truth is, that which touch'd the Hollander was much lesse than what the King himselfe furnish'd me with, and oblig'd me to publish, having caus'd it to be read to him before it went to the presse ; but the error was, it should have ben publish'd before the peace was proclaim'd. The noise of this book's suppression made it presently be bought up, and turn'd much to the stationer's advantage. It was no other than the Preface prepar'd to be prefix'd to my History of the whole Warr ; which I now pursued no further. 1 Lady Catherine Stuart, sister and heir to Charles Stuart Duke °J ^'-fj-^J Jj^J^ the husband of that admired beauty Mrs. Frances Stuart, w.th whom Charles the Se^^"^ so deeply in love, that he never forgave the DuRe for -^^^ 'f "^J^^ had foVmed some intention of doing himself. He . loTX d^eV^^^^^^^^^ into an honourable exile, as Ambassador to Demaark, where he shortly after died, leaving issue by the Duchess. ^. • 1 j D..r,o-.-/.cc SL-c Bv I. Evelyn, = Entitled. ' Navigation and Commerce, their Or.gmal .nd Progress, &c. By I- ti- Y". Esq. S. R. S.' 8vo. i«74. Dedicated to the Kmg. 38o SIEGE OF MAESTRICHT. COLL. MORGAN. DR. BURNET. 21. In one of the meadows at the foote of the long Terrace below the Castle [Windsor], works were thrown up to shew the King a repre- sentation of the Citty of Maestricht, newly taken by the French. Bas- tions, bulwarks, ramparts, palisadoes, graffs, hornworks, counterscarps, &c. were constructed. It was attack'd by the Duke of Monmouth (newly come from that real siege) and the Duke of York, with a little army, to shew their skill in tactics. On Saturday night they made their approches, open'd trenches, rais'd batteries, tooke the counter- scarp, and ravelin after a stout defence ; greate gunns fir'd on both sides, granados shot, mines sprung, parties sent out, attempts of raising the siege, prisoners taken, parleys, and in short all the circumstances of a formal siege to appearance, and, what is most strange, all without dis- order or ill accident, to the greate satisfaction of a thousand spectators. Being night, it made a formidable shew. The siege being over, I went with Mr. Pepys back to London, where we ariv'd about three in the morning. 15 Sept. To Council, about fetching away the English left at Suri- nam, &c. since our reconciliation with Holland. 21. I went to see the greate lossethat Lord Arlington had sustain'd by fire at Goring house, this night consum'd to the ground, with ex- ceeding losse of hangings, plate, rare pictures, and cabinets ; hardly any thing was sav'd of the best and most princely furnitLue that any subject had in England. My lord and lady were at the time both absent at the Bathe. 6 Oct. The Lord Chief Baron Turner, and Serjeant Wild, Recorder of London, came to visite me. 20. At Lord Berkeley's I discours'd with Sir Thomas Modiford, late Governor of Jamaica, and with Col. IVIorgan, who undertooke that gallant exploit from Nombre de Dios to Panama, on the Continent of America ; he told me 10,000 men would easily conquer all the Spanish Indies, they were so secure. They tooke greate booty, and much greater had ben taken, had they not been betraied and so discover'd before their approch, by which the Spaniards had time to carry their vast treasure on board ships that put off to sea in sight of our men, who had no boates to follow. They set fire to Panama, and ravaged the country 60 miles about. The Spaniards were so supine and unexercis'd that they were afraid to fire a greate gun. 31. My birth-day, 54th yeare of my life. Blessed be God. It was also preparation-day for the holy Sacrament, in which I participated the next day, imploring God's protection for the yeare following, and con- firming my resolutions of a more holy life, even upon the Holy Booke. The Lord assist and be gracious unto me. Amen. 15 Nov. The Anniversarie of my baptisme : I first heard that famous anu excellent preacher Dr. Burnet (author of the History of the Refor- n.ation) on 3 Coloss. 10, with such a flow of eloquence and fullness of matter, as shcw'd him to be a person of extraordinary parts. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. The night being her Majesty's birth-day, the Court was exceeding splendid in clothes and Jewells, to the height of excesse. 17. To Council, on the business of Surinam, where the Dutch had detain'd some English in prison ever since the first war 1665. 19. I heard that stupendous viohn, Signor Nicholao (with other rare musitians), whom I never heard mortal man exceed on that instrument He had a stroak so sweete, and made it speake like the voice of a man, and, when he pleas'd, like a consort of severall instruments. He did wonders upon a note, and was an excellent composer. Here was also that rare lutenist Dr. Wallgrave ; but nothing approch'd the violin in Nicholao's hand. He plaied such ravishing things as astonish'd us all 2 Dec. At Mr. Slingsby's, Master of the Mint, my worthy friend, a greate lover of musiq. Heard Signor Francisco on the harpsichord, esteem'd one of the most excellent masters in Europe on that instrument; then came Nicholao with his violin, and struck all mute but Mrs. Knight, who sung incomparably, and doubtlesse has the greatest reach of any English woman ; she had lately ben roaming in Italy, and was of York much improv'd in that quality. 15. Saw a comediei at night at Court, acted by the ladies onely, amongst them Lady Mary and Ann, his Royal Highnesses two daugh- ters, and my dear friend Mrs. Blagg, who having the principal part, perform'd it to admiration. They were all cover'd with Jewells. 22. Was at the repetition of the Pastoral, on which occasion Mrs. Blagg had about her neere ;^.20,ooo worth of Jewells, of which she lost one worth about ^.80, borrow'd of the Countess of Suffolk. The press was so greate, that 'tis a wonder she lost no more. The Duke of York made it good. 1675. 20 Jan. Went to see Mr. Streeter, that excellent painter o( perspective and landskip, to comfort and encourage him to be cut for the stone, with which that honest man was exceedingly afflicted.' 22 Mar. Supp'd at Sir William Petty's with the Bp. of Salisbury and divers honorable persons. We had a noble entertainment in a house gloriously furnish'd ; the master and mistress of it were extraor- dinary persons. Sir William was the sonn of a meanc man some where in Sussex, and sent from Schole to Oxon, where he studied Philosophy, but was most eminent in Mathematics and Mechanics: proceeded Dr. of Physick, and was grown famous, as for his learning I This was the Masque of ' Calisto. or the Chaste Nymph,' by John Crowne. The per- formers in the piece were, the two daughters of the Duke of York, Lady Henrietta Went- worth (afterwards mistress to the Duke of Monmouth), Countess of Sussex Lady Mary Mordaunt. Mrs. Blagg, who had been Maid of Honour to the Queen and Mrs. ^""'"e^.^h- Maid of Honour to the Duchess of York, and who was afterwards^the ^^^'^^rated D^^^^^^^ Marlborough. The Duke of Monmouth, Lord Dumblame, ^/'i^^'^'Z '^^^^^^^ the dancers ; and Mrs. Davis. Mrs. Kmght, Mrs. Butler, and others, IiRewise acted and sung in the performance. Printed, London 1675, m 410. f:,mon< .urneon fro The King, it is said, who had a great regard for this amst. sent for a famous .urgeon Paris, on purpose to perform the operation. 382 SIR WILLIAM PETTY, HIS SERVICES, TALENTS, AND SUCCESS. SO for his recovering a poor wench that had ben hanged for felony ; and her body having ben begged (as the custom is) for the anatomie lecture, he bled her, put her to bed to a warm woman, and with spirits and other meanes restored her to lifeJ The young scholars joyn'd and made her a little portion, and married her to a man who had severall children by her, she living 1 5 yeares after, as I have ben assur'd. Sir William came from Oxon, to be tutor to a neighbour of mine ; thence, when the rebells were dividing their conquests in Ireland, he was em- ploy'd by them to measure and set out the land, which he did on an easy contract, so much per acre. This he effected so exactly, that it not only furnish'd him with a greate sum of money, but enabled him to purchase an estate worth ^.4000 a yeare. He afterwards married the daughter of Sir Hardresse Waller ; she was an extraordinary witt as well as beauty, and a prudent woman. Sir William, amongst other inventions, was author of the double-bot- tom'd ship, which tho' it perish'd, and he was censur'd for rashnesse, being lost in the Bay of Biscay in a storme when, I think, 15 other vessells miscarried. The vessell was flat-bottom'd, of exceeding use to put into shallow ports, and ride over small depths of water. It con- sisted of 2 distinct keeles crampt together with huge timbers, &c. so as that a violent streame ran betweene ; it bare a monstrous broad saile, and he still persists that it is practicable and of exceeding use ; and he has often told me he would adventure himselfe in such another, could he procure sailors, and his Majestys permission to make a second Experiment, which name the King gave it at the launching. The Map of Ireland made by Sir William Petty is belicv'd to be the most exact that ever yet was made of any country. He did promise to publish it; and I am told it has cost him neare /.looo to have it engrav'd at Amsterdam. There is not a better Latine poet living when he gives himselfe that diversion ; nor is his excellence less in Council and prudent matters of state ; but he is so exceeding nice in sifting and examining all possible contingencies, that he adventures at nothing which is not demonstration. There were not in the whole world his equal for a superintendant of manufacture and improvement of trade, or to govern a Plantation. If I were a Prince, I should make him my second Counsellor at least. There is nothing difficult to him. He is besides courageous, on which account I cannot but note a true storie of » For a full account of this very remarkable event, see a pamphlet, entitled, 'Newes from ihe Dead, or a true and exact narration of the miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene, who b^mc executed at Oxford Dec. 14, 1650, afterwards revived; and by the care of certain 1 hysicians there is now perfectly recovered. Oxford, the second Impression, with Additions, 4to 1651. Added to the Narrative are several Copies of Verses in Latin, English, and French, w-ir''" °^ University, commemorative of the story ; amongst others, one by Joseph Williamson afterwards Secretary of State, another by Christoplier Wren, the famous archi- teci, then of Wadhain College, Walter Pope, Dr. Ralph Bathurst (the last under other namesX Bnd many more This was reprinted, but very negligently from the first and worst edition, 10 Morgan s Phoenix Britannicus,' ^to. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 383 him, that when Sir Aleyri Brodrick sent him a challenge upon a differ- ence 'twixt them in Ireland, Sir William, tho' exceedingly purblind, accepted the challenge, and it being his part to propound (he weapon, desir'd his antagonist to meete him with a hatchet or axe in a dark cellar, which the other of course refused. Sir William was, with all this, facetious and of easy conversation, friendly and courteous, and had such a faculty of imitating others, that he would take a text and preach, now like a brave orthodox divine, then falling into the Presbyterian way, then to the phanatical, the quaker, the monk and friar, the Popish priest, with such admirable action, and alteration of voice and tone, as it was not possible to abstain from wonder, and one would sweare to heare severall persons, or forbear to think he was not in good earnest an enthusiast and almost beside himselfe ; then he would fall out of it into a serious discourse ; but it was very rarely he would be prevail'd on to oblige the company with this faculty, and that only amongst most intimate friends. My Lord Duke of Ormond once obtain'd it of him., and was almost ravish'd with admiration ; but by and by he fell upon a serious reprimand of the faults and miscarriages of some Princes and Governors, which tho' he nam'd none, did so sen- sibly touch the Duke, who was then Lieutenant of Ireland, that he began to be very uneasy, and wish'd the spirit lay'd which he had rais'd, for he was neither able to endure such truthes, nor could he but be delighted. At last he mealted his discourse to a ridiculous subject, and came down from the joynt stoole on which he had stood ; but my lord would not have him preach any more. He never could get favour at Court, because he outwitted all the projectors that came neere him. Having never known such another genius, I cannot but mention these particulars amongst a multitude of others which I could produce. When I who knew him in mean circumstances have ben in his splendid palace, he would hirnselfe be in admiration how he ariv'd at it ; nor was it his value or inclination for splendid furniture and the curiosities of the age, but his elegant lady could endure nothing meane, or that was not magnificent. He was very negligent himselfe, and rather so of his person, and of a philosophic temper. ' What a to-do is here !' would he say, ' I can lie in straw with as much satisfaction.' He is author of the ingenious deductions from the bills of mortality, which go under the name of Mr. Graunt ; also of that useful discourse of the manufacture of wool, and several others in the register of the Royal Society. He was also author of that paraphrase on the I04tb Psalm in Latin verse, which goes about in MS. and is inimitable. In a word, there is nothing impenetrable to him. 26 March. Dr. Brideoake was elected Bishop of Chichester on the translation of Dr. Gunning to Ely. 30. Dr. Allestree preached on 6 Romans 3, the necessitie of those who are baptized to die to sinn ; a very excellent discourse from an excellent preacher. 384 AT THE ROYAL SOCIETY. A CONFERENCE. MONS. QUEROUAILLE, 25 April. Dr. Barrow/ that excellent, pious, and most learned man, divine, mathematician, poet, traveller, and most humble person, preach'd at White-hall to the household, on 20 Luke 27, of love and charitie to our neighbours. 29. 1 read my first discourse ' Of Earth and Vegetation,' before the Royall Society, as a lecture in course after Sir Rob. Southwell had read his the weeke before On Water. I was commanded by our Pre sident and the suffrage of the Society to print it. 16 May. This day was my deare friend Mrs. Blagg married at the Temple Church to my friend Mr. Sidney Godolphin, Groome of the Bed-Chamber to his Majesty. 18. I went to visite one Mr. Bathurst, a Spanish merchant, who was my neighbour. 31. I went with Lord Ossorie to Deptford, where we chose him Master of the Trinity Company. 2 June. I was at a conference of the Lords and Commons in the Painted Chamber, on a difference about imprisoning some of their members : and on the 3d, at another conference, when the Lords ac- cused the Commons for their transcendent misbehaviour, breach of privilege, Magna Charta, subversion of government, aad other high, provoking, and diminishing expressions, shewing what duties and sub- jection they owed to the Lords in Parliament by record of Hen. IV. This was likely to create a notable disturbance. 15. This afternoone came Monsieur Querouaille and his lady, parents to the famous beauty and ***** favorite at Court, to see Sir R. Browne, with whom they were intimately acquainted in Bretagne, at the time Sir Richard was sent to Brest to supervise his Majestys sea affaires, during the later part of the King's banishment. This gentle- man's house was not a mile from Brest ; Sir Richard made an acquaint- ance there, and being used very civily, was obliged to returne it here, which we did. He seem'd a souldierly person and a good fellow, as the 13retons generally are ; his lady had ben very handsome, and seem'd a shrewd understanding woman. Conversing with him in our garden, I found severall words of the Breton language the same with our Welch. His daughter was now made Dutchess of Portsmouth and in the height of favour, but he never made any use of it. 27. At Ely House, I went to the consecration of my worthy friend the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queenes Coll. Oxon, now made Bishop of Lincoln. After it, succeeded a magnificent feast, where were the D. of Ormond, E. of Lauderdaile, the Lord Treasurer. Lord Keeper, &c. 8 July. I went with Mrs. Howard and her two daughters to^'ards Northampton Assizes, about a tryal at law, in which I was concerned > Master of Trinity College, Cambridge; succeeded Dr. Tohii Pearson, when made Diihop of Chester. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 38^ for them as Trustee. We lay this night at Henley on the Thames at our attorney Mr. Stephens's, who entertain'd us very handsomely - Next day, dmmg at Shotover, at Sir Tim. Tyrill's, a sweete place we lay at Oxford, where it was the time of the Act. Mr. Robert Spencer, unkle to the Earle of Sunderland, and my old acquaintance in France^ entertain'd us at his apartment in Christ Church, with exceeding gene- rosity.— The loth, the Vice-chancellor, Dr. Bathurst (who had for- merly taken particular care of my sonn). President of Trinity Colledge, invited me to dinner, and did me greate honour all the time of my stay! The next day he invited me and all my company, tho' strangers to him, to a very noble feast. I was at all the academic exercises.— Sonday, at St. Maries, preach'd a Fellow of Brazen-nose, not a little magnifying the dignity of Church -men.— The nth, we heard the speeches, and saw the ceremonie of creating Doctors in Divinity, Law, and Physic. 1 had early in the morning heard Dr. Morison, Botanic Professor, reade on divers plants in the Physic Garden ; and saw that rare collec- tion of natural curiosities of Dr. Plot's, of Magdalen Hall, author of •The Natural History of Oxfordshire,' all of them collected in that Shire, and indeede extraordinary, that in one County there should be found such varietie of plants, shells, stones, minerals, marcasites, louls, insects, models of works, chrystals, achates, and marbles. He was now intending to visite Staffordshire, and as he had of Oxfordshire, to give us the natural, topical, political, and mechanical history. Pitty it is that more of this industrious man's genius were not employ'd so to describe every County of England ; it would have been one of the most usefull and illustrious workes that was ever produced in any age or nation. I visited also the Bodleian Library, and my old friend the learned Obadiah Walker, head of University Coll. which he had now almost rebuilt or repair'd. We then proceeded to Northampton, where we arived the next day. In this journey went part of the way Mr. Ja. Graham (since Privy Purse to the Duke), a young gentleman exceedingly in love with Mrs. Dorothy Howard, one of the Mayds of Honour in our company. I could not but pitty them both, the mother not much favouring it. This lady was not onely a greate beauty, but a most virtuous and ex- cellent creature, and worthy to have ben wife to the best of men. My advice was required, and I spake to the advantage of the young gen- tleman, more out of pitty than that she deserved no better match, for tho he was a gentleman of a good family, yet there was greate inequalitie. 14. I went to see my Lord Sunderland's seat at Althorp, 4 mi es from the ragged towneof Northampton (since burned, and well rebuilt). 'Tis placed in a pretty open bottome, very finely walred and flanqued with stately woods and groves in a parke, with a cauall, but the water is not runnin-, which is a defect. The house a kind ot moaern • 25 386 ALTHORP HOUSE. SERVANTS IN LOVE. DR. SPRAT. building of freestone, within most nobly furnished. The apart- ments very commodious, a gallerie and noble hall, but the kitchen being in the body of the house and chapcll too small, were defects. There is an old yet honourable gate-house standing awry, and out- housing meane, but design'd to be taken away. It was moated round after the old manner, but it is now dry, and turfed with a beautiful! carpet. Above all are admirable and magnificent the severall ample gardens furnish'd with the choicest fruite,and exquisitely kept. Create plenty of oranges and other curiosities. The parke full of foule, espe- cialy hemes, and from it a prospect to Holmby House, which being dcmolish'd in the late civil warrs, shews like a Roman ruine, shaded by the trees about it, a stately, solemn, and pleasing view. 15. Our cause was pleaded in behalfe of the mother, Mrs. Howard ' and her daughters, before Baron Thurland, who had formerly ben steward of Courts for me ; we carried our cause, as there was reason, for here was an imprudent as well as disobedient sonn against his mo- ther, by instigation doubtlesse of his wife, one Mrs. Ogle (an ancient maid), whom he had clandestinely married, and who brought him no fortune, he being heire apparent of the Earle of Berkshire. We lay at Brickhill in Bedfordshire, and came home late next day. This was a journey of adventures and knight errantry. One of the lady's servants being as desperately in love with Mrs. Howard's woman as Mr. Craham was with her daughter, and she riding on horseback behind his rival, the amorous and jealous youth having a httle drink in his pate, had here killed himselfe had he not ben prevented ; for, alighting from his horse, and drawing his sword, he endeavoured twice e>r thrice to fall on it, but was interrupted by our coachman and a stranger passing by. After this, running to his rival and snatching his sword from his side (for we had beaten his owne out of his hand), and on the suddaine pulling downe his mistresse, would have run both of them thro'; we parted them, but not without some blood. This miserable creature poyson'd himselfe for her not many dales after they came to London. July 19. The Lord Tressurers Chaplaine preached at Walling- ford House. 9 Aug. Dr. Sprat, prebend of Westminster and Chaplain to the Duke of Buckingham, preached on the 3rd Epistle of Jude, shewing * Mrs. Howard was widow of William fourth son of the first Earl of Berkeshire, being the daughter of Lord Dundass of the kingdom of Scotland. They had one son Craven Howard, and two daughters, Dorothy, who married Col. James Grehme of Levens in Westmoreland ; and Anne, who married Sir Gabriel Sylvias, Knt. Craven married two wives, the first of which was Anne, daughter of Tho. Ogle of Pinchb^k, co. Line. Esq. ; then maid of honour to Queen Catherme. Collins's Peerage. These two daughters are the ladies here mentioned by Mr. Evelyn ; but he is not correct 1:1 calling Craven heir apparent of the Earl of Berks, as besides the uncle then in possession the title, there was another uncle before him, who in fact inherited it, and did not die tJM ««ii?y years after. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. jgy what the primitive faith was, how neere it and how excellent that of the Church of England, also the danger of departing from it. 27. I visited the Bishop of Rochester at Bromely, and dined at Sir Philip Warwick's at Frogpoole [Frognall], 2 Sept. I went to see Dulwich Colledge, being the pious foundation of one Allen, a famous Comedian in King James's time. The Chapell is pretty, the rest of the Hospital very ill contrived ; it yet maintaines divers poore of both sexes. 'Tis in a melancholy part of Camerwell parish. I came back by certaine medicinal Spa waters, at a place called Sydnam Wells in Lewisham parish, much frequented in Summer. 10. I was casually shewed the Dutchesse of Portsmouth's splendid appartment at White-hall, luxuriously furnished, and with ten times the richnesse and glory beyond the Queenes ; such massy pieces of plate, whole tables, & stands, of incredible value. 29. I saw the Italian Scaramucchio act before the King at White- hall, people giving money to come in, which was very scandalous, and never so before at Court diversions. Having scene him act before in Italy, many yeares past, I was not averse from seeing the most excel- ient of that kind of folly. 14 Oct. Din'd at Kensington with my old acquaintance Mr. Hen- shaw, newly return'd from Denmark, where he had ben left resident after the death of the Duke of Richmond, who died there Ambassador. 15. I got an extreme cold, such as was afterwards so epidemical, as not only to afflict us in this island, but was rife over all Europe, like a plague. It was after an exceeding dry summer and autumn. I settled affaires, my sonn being to go into France with my Lord Berkeley, design'd Ambassador extraordinary for France and Plenipo- tentiary for the general treaty of peace at Nimeguen. 24. Din'd at Lord Chamberlain's with the Holland Ambassador L. Duras, a valiant gentleman whom his Majesty made an English Baron, of a cadet, and gave him his seate of Holmby in Northamptonshire [since Earle of Feversham]. 27. Lord Berkeley coming into Council, fell downe in the gallene at White-hall in a fit of apoplexie, and being carried into my ^ Lord Chamberlaines lodgings, severall famous doctors were employed all that night, and with much ado he was at last recover'd to some sense, by applying hot fire-pans and spirit of amber to his head, but nothmg was found so effectual as cupping him on the shoulders. It was an almost miraculous restauration. The next day he was carried to Berkeley House. This stopp'd his journey for the present, and caused my stay in towne. He had put all his affaires and his whole estate in England into my hands during his intended absence, which tho I was very unfit to undertake, in reguard of many businesses vvhich then took me up, yetuponthe greate importunity of mv lady and Mr. ^^^olphin (t^ whom I could refuse nothing) I did take it on me. It seemes when he 388 LORD BERKELEY. MRS. HAMILTON. LADY MORDAUNT. was Deputy in Ireland, not long before, he had ben much wronged by one he left in trust with his affaires, and therefore wished for some un- mercenary friend who would take that trouble on him ; this was to re- ceive his rents, look after his houses and tenants, solicite supplies from the Lord Treasurer, and correspond weekly with him, more than enough to employ any drudge in England ; but what will not friendship and love make one do 31. Din'd at my Lord Chamberlain's with my sonn. There were the learned Isaac Vossius and Spanhemius, son of the famous man of Heidelburg, nor was this gentleman less learned, being a generall scholar. Amongst other pieces he was author of an excellent treatise on Medails. 10 Nov. Being the day appointed for my Lord Ambassador to set out, I met them with my coach at New Crosse. There were with him my Lady his wife and my deare friend Mrs. Godolphin, who out of an extraordinary friendship would necdes accompany my lady to Paris, and stay with her sometime, which was the chiefe inducement for per- mitting my sonn to travel, but I knew him safe under her inspection, and in reguard my Lord himselfe had promised to take him into his special favour, he having intrusted all he had to my care. Thus we set out, 3 coaches (besides mine), 3 waggons, and about forty horse. It being late, and my lord as yet but valetudinarie, we got but to Dartford the first day ; the next to Sittingbourne. At Rochester, the major, Mr. Cony, then an officer of mine for the sick and wounded of that place, gave the ladies a handsome refresh- ment as we came by his house. 12. We came to Canterbury, and next morning to Dover. There was in my Lady Ambassadresses company my Lady Hamil- ton, a sprightly young lady, much in the good graces of the family, wife of that valiant and worthy gentleman Geo. Hamilton, not long after slame m the warrs. She had ben a maid of honour to the Dutchesse, and now turn'd Papist. 14- Being Sonday, my Lord having before deliver'd to me his letter of attorney, keyes, scale, and his will, we took solemn leave of one another upon the beach, the coaches carrying them into the sea to the boats, which dehver'd them to Capt. Gunman's yacht the Mary. Being under saile, the castle gave them 17 gunns, which Capt. Gunman answered with 1 1. Hence I went to Church, to beg a blessing on their voyage. 2 Dec. Being returned home, 1 visited Lady Mordaunt at Parsons Greene, my Lord her sonn being sick. This pious woman deliver'd to me £100. to bestow as I thought fit for the release of poore prisoners and other charitable uses. 21. Visited her Ladyship againe, where I found the Bp. of Win- chester whom I had long known in France : he invited me to his house at Chelsey. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 389 23 Dec, Lady Sunderland gave me ten guineas to bestow in chari- ties. 1676, 20 Feb. Dr. Gunning, Bishop of Ely, preached before the King from 20 St. John 21, 22, 23, chiefly against an anonymous booke called * Naked Truth,' a famous and popular treatise against the cor- ruption in the Cleargie, but not sound as to its quotations, supposed to have ben the Bishop of Hereford's [Dr. Herbert Croft], and was answered by Dr. Turner, it endeavoring to prove an equality of order of Bishop and Presbyter. 27. Dr. Pritchard, Bp. of Glocester, preached at White-hall on 5 Isaiah 5. very allegorically according to his manner, yet very gravely and wittily. 29 February. I din'd with Mr. Povey, one of the Masters of Re- quests, a nice contriver of all elegancies, and exceedingly formall. Supped with Sir J. Williamson, where were of our Society, Mr. Robert Boyle, Sir Christ: Wren, Sir Wm. Petty, Dr. Holden, sub-dean of his Majesty's Chapell, Sir James Shaen, Dr. Whistler, and our Secretary Mr. Oldenburg. 4 March. Sir Thomas Linch was returned from his government of Jamaica. 16. The Countesse of Sunderland and I went by water to Parsons Greene to visite my Lady Mordaunt, and to consult with her about my Lord's monument. We return'd by coach. 19. Dr. Lloyd, late Curate at Deptford, but now Bishop of Llandaff, preached before the King on i Cor. 15. 57. that tho' sin subjects us to Death, yet thro' Christ we become his conquerors. 24. Dr. Brideoak Bp. of Chichester, preach'd ; a mean discourse for a Bishop. I also heard Dr. Fleetwood, Bp. of Worcester, on 26 Matt. 38. of the sorrows of Christ, a deadly sorrow caused by our sinns; he was no great preacher. 23. To Twickenham Park, Lord Berkeley's country seate, to examine how the bailiffs and servants ordered matters. 30. Dining with my La. Sunderland, I saw a fellow swallow a knife, and divers great pebble stones, which would make a plaine rattling one against another. The knife was in the sheath of home. Dr. North, sonn to my Lord North, preach'd before the King on 53 Isaiah 57. a very young but learned and excellent person. Note. This was the first time the Duke appeared no more in Chapell, to the mfinite griefe and threatned ruine of this poore Nation. 2 April. I had now notice that my deare friend Mrs. Godolphm was returning from Paris. On the 6th she arived to my greate joy, whom I most heartily welcomed. r ^ c u- u 28 April. My wife entertain'd her Majesty at Deptford for which Lhe Queene gave me thanks in the withdrawing-roome at White-haU t Ralph Brideoakc, Dean of Salisbury, succeeded Bp. Gunnmg in the See. 390 MR. PRIDEAUX. BLOOMSBURY. MOTHER OF THE MAIDS. The University of Oxford presented me with the * Marmora Oxoni. ensia Arundelliana ; ' the Bp. of Oxford writing to desire that I would introduce Mr. Prideaux the Editor (a young man most learned in Anti- quities) to the Duke of Norfolk, to present another dedicated to his Grace, which I did, and we din'd with the Duke at Arundel House, and supp'd at the Bp. of Rochester's with Isaac Vossius. 7 May. I spoke to the Duke of York about my Lo. Berkeley's going to Nimeguen. Thence to the Queene's Council at Somerset House, about Mrs. Godolphin's lease of Spalding in Lincolnshire. II. I dined with Mr. Charleton, and went to see Mr. Mountague's new palace, now the Brit. Museum, neere Bloomsbury, built by Mr. Hooke of our Society after the French manner. 13 May. Return'd home and found my son come from France, praised be God. 22. Trinity Monday. A chaplain of my Lord Ossorie's preach'd, after which we took barge to Trinity House in London. Mr. Pepys (Secy, of the Admiralty) succeeded my Lord as Master. 2 June. I went with my Lord Chamberlaine to see a garden at En- field towne ; thence to Mr. Sec. Coventry's lodge in the Chace. It is a very pretty place, the house commodious, the gardens handsome, and our entertainment very free, there being none but my Lord and myselfe. That which I most wondered at was, that in the compass of 25 miles, yet within 14 of London, there is not an house, barne, church, or build- ing, besides three lodges. To this Lodge are three greate ponds and some few inclosures, the rest a solitarie desert, yet stor'd with not lesse than 3000 deere. These are pretty retreats for gentlemen, especialy for those who are studious and lovers of privacy. We return'd in the evening by Hamsted, to see Lord Wotton's house and garden, Belsize, built with vast expense by Mr. O'Neale, an Irish gentleman who married Lord Wotton's mother Lady Stanhope. The furniture is very particular for Indian cabinets, porcelain, and other solid and noble moveables. The gallery very fine, the gardens very large, but ill kept, yet woody and chargeable. The soil a cold weeping clay, not answering the expence. 12 June. I went to Sir Tho. Bond's new and fine house by Peck- ham ; it is on a flat, but has a fine garden and prospect thro' the mea- dows to London. 2 July. Dr. Castillion, Prebend of Canterbury, preached before the King on 15 John 22. at White-hall. 19. Went to the funeral of Sir William Sanderson, husband to the mother of the Maids,' and author of two large but meane histories of King James and King Charles the First. He was buried at Westminster. I Aug. In the afternoone, after prayers at St. James's Chapell, was \ The Queen's Maids of Honour ; there is or lately was a place with that title. (1816.) THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. christned a daughter of Dr. Leakes, the Duke's Chaplaine ; God- mothers were Lady Mary, daughter of the Duke of York, and the Dut- chesse of Monmouth : Godfather, the Earle of Bathe. 15. Came to dine with me my Lord HaHfax, Sir Thomas Meres, one of the Commissioners of the Admiralty, Sir John Clayton, Mr. Slingsby, Mr. Henshaw, and Mr. Bridgeman. 25. Din'd with Sir John Banks at his house in Lincoln's Inn Fields, on recommending Mr. Upman to be tutor to his sonn going into France. This Sir John Banks was a merchant of small beginning, but had amass'd 100,000/. 26. I din'd at the Admiralty with Secretary Pepys, and supp'd at the Lord Chamberlaines. Here was Capt. Baker, who had ben lately on the attempt of the North West Passage. He reported prodigious depth of ice, blew as a sapphire, and as transparent. The thick mists were their cheife impediment and cause of their returne. 2 Sept. I paid 1700/. to the Marquiss de Sissac, which he had lent to my Lord Berkeley, and which I heard the Marquiss lost at play in a night or two. The Dean of Chichester preach'd before the King on 24 Acts 16 ; and Dr. Crighton preach'd the second sermon before him on 90 Psalm I7. of wisely numlDering our daies and well employing our time. 3. Dined at Capt. Graham's, where I became acquainted with Dr. Compton, brother to the Earle of Northampton, now Bishop of London, and Mr. North, sonn to the Lord North, brother to the Ld. Cheife Justice and Gierke of the Closet, a most hopefull young man. The Bishop had once ben a souldier, had also travel'd Italy, and became a most sober, grave, and excellent prelate. 6. Supped at the Lord Chamberlaine's, where also supped the famous beauty and errant lady the Dutchesse of Mazarine (all the world knows her storie), the Duke of Monmouth, Countesse of Sussex both natural children of the King by the Dutchess of CleavelandV and the Countesse of Derby, a virtuous lady, daughter to my best friend the Earle of Ossorie. 10 Sept. Din'd with me Mr. Flamsted, the learned astrologer and mathematician, whom his Majesty had estabhsh'd in the new Observa- torie in Greenewich Park furnish'd with the choicest mstruments. An honest, sincere man. . , 12. To London, to take order about the buildmg of an house, cr rather an apartment which had all the conveniences of an house, for I Mr. Evelyn forgot himself here. The Duke of Monrnouth's mother was it '^^^^'^Zn. Mrs. Lucy Walters%vho was sometimes called Mrs. Barlow f i^,^^^^^ Fitzroy, I she is called in the books of Peerage, was ^^^^l^'l^^^^^^^^^ Sussex, by whom she left a daughter only, -ho succeeded o h r f^^^^^ ofDacre. Mr. Evelyn probably meant to speak of euher the Du^^^^^^ of Grafton, or the Duke of Northumberland, all of whom Cha.le. t.^e :>eco Duchess of Cleaveland. MY BIKTHDAY. BALL AT THE DUKE OF YORK'S. my deare friend Mr. Godolphin and lady, which I undertooke to con- trive and survey, and employ workmen 'till it should be quite finished ; it being just over against his Majesties wood yard by the Thames side, leading to Scotland yard. 19. To Lambeth, to that rare magazine of marble, to take order for chimney-pieces, &c. for Mr. Godolphin's house. The owner of the workes had built for himselfe a pretty dwelling-house ; this Dutchman had contracted with the Genoese for all their marble. We also saw the Duke of Buckingham's Glasse-worke, where they made huge vases of mettal as cleare, ponderous and thick as chrystal ; also looking- glasses far larger and better than any that come from Venice. 9 Oct. I went with Mrs. Godolphin and my wife to Black-wall, to see some Indian curiosities ; the streetes being slippery I fell against a piece of timber with such violence that I could not speake nor fetch my breath for some space : being carried into an house and let bloud, I was removed to the water side and so home, where after a dales rest I recovered. This being one ol my greatest deliverances, the Lord Jesus make me ever mindfull and thankfuU. 31. Being my birth-day, and 56 yeares old, I spent the morning in devotion and imploring God's protection, with solemn thanksgiving for all his signal mercies to me, especialy for that escape which concerned me this moneth at Black-wall. Dined with Mrs. Godolphin, and re- turned home through a prodigious and dangerous mist. 9 Nov. Finish'd the lease of Spalding for Mr. Godolphin. 16. My sonn and I dining at my Lord Chamberlaine's, he shew'd us amongst others that imcomparable piece of Raphael's, being a Minister of State dictating to Guicciardini, the earnestness of whose face looking up in expectation of what he was next to write is so to the life, and so naturall, as I esteeme it one of the choicest pieces of that jdmirable artist. There was a IVoman's head of Leonardo da Vinci ; i Madona of old Palma, and two of Van- Dyke's, of which one was his p7£///^//V/«r^ at length, when young, in a leaning posture; the other an Eunuch singitig. Rare pieces indeede. 4 Dec. I saw the greate ball daunced by all the gallants and ladyes U the Dutchesse of York's. 10 Dec. There fell so deep a snow as hinder'd us from church. 12. To London, in so great a snow as I remember not to have eene the hke. 17. More snow falling, I was not able to get to church. 1677. 8 Feb. I went to Roehampton with my lady Dutchesse ol Ormond. The garden and perspective is pretty, the prospect most agreeable. 15 May. Came the Earle of Peterborough to desire me to be a Trustee for Lord Vise. Mordaunt and the Countesse, for the sale of certa-'ne lands set out by Act of Parliament to pay debts. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. j^j 12. I went to London to give the Lo. Ambr. Berkeley (now re- turn'd from the Treaty at Nimeguen) an account of the greate trust repos'd in me during his absence, I having receiv'd and remitted to him no lesse than 20,000/. to my no small trouble and losse of time, that during his absence and when the Lord Treasurer was no greate friend [of his] I yet procur'd him greate sums, very often soliciting his Majesty in his behalfe ; looking after the rest of his estate and con- cernes intirely, without once accepting any kind of acknowledgment, purely upon the request of my dear friend Mr. Godolphin. I return'd with abundance of thanks and professions from my Lord Berkeley and my Lady. 29. This business being now at an end and myself deliver'd from that intolerable servitude and correspondence, I had leisure to be some- what more at home and to myselfe. 3 July. I sealed the deedes of sale of the Manner of Blechinglee to Sir Robt. Clayton, for payment of Lo. Peterborough's debts, accord- ing to the trust of the Act of Parliament. 16. I went to Wotton.— 22, Mr. Evans, curate of Abinger, preach'd an excellent sermon on 5 Matthew 12. In the afternoone Mr. Higham at Wotton catechised. 26. I din'd at Mr. Duncomb's at Sheere, whose house stands in- viron'd with very sweete and quick streams. 29. Mr. Bohun, my sonn's late tutor, preached at Abinger on 4 Phil. 8. very elegantly and practically. 5 Aug. 1 went to visite my Lord Brounker, now taking the waters at Dulwich. 9. Din'd at the Earl of Peterborow's the day after the marriage of my Lord of Arundel to Lady Mary Mordaunt daughter to the Earl of Peterborough. 28. To visite my Lord Chamberlaine in Suffolk ; he sent his coach and 6 to meete and bring me from St. Edmonds Bury to Euston. 29. We hunted in the park and kill'd a very fat buck.-3i. I went a hawking. t v. n a 7. Sept. There din'd this day at my Lord's one Sir John Gaudy, a very nandsome person, but quite dumb, yet very intelligent by signes and a very fine painter ; he was so civil and well bred as it was not possible to discerne any imperfection by him. His lady and children were also there, and he was at church in the morning vvith us. 4. I went to visite my Lord Crofts, now dying at St. Ef^^"^^^^"^' and tooke this opportunity to see this ancient Towne, and the remam^^ of that famous Monasterie and Abby. There is litt e stand^^^^^^ save the gate-house ; it has ben a vast and magnificent Gotic structure^ and of greate extent. The gates are wood, but quite plated over with iron. There are also two stately churches, one especia y. 5. I went to Thetford, the Burrough Towne, where stand the rumei 394 THETFORD ; IPSWICH ; CARDINAL WOLSEY. of a religious house ; there is a round mountaine artificialy raised, eithei for some castle or monument, which makes a pretty landscape. As we went and rcturn'd, a tumbler shew'd his extraordinary addresse in the Warren. I also saw the Decoy, much pleas'd with the stratagem. 9. A stranger preach'd at Euston church, and fell into a handsome panegyric on my Lord's new building the church, which indeede tor its elegance and cherefullness is one of the prettiest country churches in England. My Lord told me his heart smote him that after he haa bestow'd so much on his magnificent palace there, he should see God's House in the mine it lay in. He has also rebuilt the parsonage-house, all of stone, very neate and ample. 10. To divert me, my Lord would needs carry me to see Ipswich, when we din'd with one Mr. Mann by the way, who was Recorder of the towne. There were in our company my Lord Huntingtoure sonn to the Dutchesse of Lauderdale, Sir Ed. Bacon a learned gentleman of the family of the greate Chancellor Verulam, and Sir John Felton, with some other Knights and Gentlemen. After dinner came the Bailiff and Magistrates in their formalities with their maces to compliment my Lord and invite him to the Towne-house, where they presented us a collation of dried sweet meates and wine, the bells ringing, &c. Then we went to see the towne, and first, the Lord Viscount Hereford's house, which stands in a park neere the towne, like that at Bruxelles in Flan- ders ; the house not greate yet pretty, especialy the hall. The stewes for fish succeed one another and feed one the other, all paved at bot- tome. There is a good picture of the Bl. Virgin in one of the parlours, seeming to be of Holbein or some good master. Then we saw the Haven, 7 miles from Harwich. The tide runs out every day, but the bedding being soft mudd it is safe for shipping and a station. The trade of Ipswich is for the most part Newcastle coales, with which they supply London, but it was formerly a cloathing towne. There is not any beggar asks alms in the whole place, a thing very extraordinary, so order'd by the prudence of the Magistrates. It has in it 14 or 15 beautiful churches : in a word 'tis for building, cleanesse, and good order, one of the best townes in England. Cardinal Wolsey was a butcher's sonn of this towne, but there is little of that magnificent Pre- late's foundation here, besides a schole and I think a library, which I did not see. His intentions were to build some greate thing. We re- turn'd late to Euston, having travell'd above 50 miles this day. Since first I was at this place, I found things exceedingly improv'd. It is seated in a bottome between two gracefull swellings, the maine buildmg being now in the figure of a Greek ir with foure pavihons, two at each corner, and a breake in the front, rail'd and balustred at the top, where I caus'd huge jarrs to be plac'd full of earth to keepe them steady upon their pedestalls between the statues, which make as good a shew as if they were of stone, and tho' the building be of brick, and but THE DIARV 9F JOHN EVELYN. 395 two Stories besides cellars, and garretts cover'd with blue slate, yet there is roome enough for a full court, the offices and out-houses being so ample and well-dispos'd. The King's apartment is painted dfresca, and magnificently furnish'd. There are many excellent pictures of the greate masters. The gallery is a pleasant, noble roome : in the breake, or middle, is a billiard-table, but the wainscot being of firr, and painted, does not please me so well as Spanish oake without paint. The chapel is pretty, the porch descending to the gardens. The orange garden is very fine, and leads into the green-house, at the end of which is a hall to eate in, and the conservatory some hundred fccte long, adorn'd with mapps, as the other side is with the heads of Caesars ill cut in alabaster : over head are several apartments for my Lord, Lady, and Dutchesse,^ with kitchens and other offices below in a lesser form, with lodgings for servants, all distinct, for them to retire to when they please and would be in private and have no communication with the palace, which he tells me he will wholly resign to his sonn-in-law and daughter, that charming young creature. The canall running under my lady's dressing-room chamber window is full of carps and foule which come and are fed there. The cascade at the end of the canall turnes a corne-mill, which provides the family, and raises water for the fountaines and offices. To passe this canal into the opposite meadows, Sir Sam. Moreland has invented a screw-bridge, which being turn'd with a key lands you 50 foote distant at the entrance of an ascending walke of trees, a mile in length, as tis also on the front into the park, of 4 rows of ash-trees, and reaches to the park-pale, which is 9 miles in compass, and the best for riding and meeting the game that I ever saw. There were now of red and fallow deere almost a thousand, with good covert, but the soile barren and flying sand, in which nothing will grow kindly. The tufts of firr and much of the other wood were planted by my direction some yeares before. This seate is admirably plac d for field sports, hawking, hunting, or racing. The mutton is small, but sweete. The stables hold 30 horses and 4 coaches. The out-otlices make two large quadrangles, so as servants never liv'd with more ease and convenience, never master more civil. Strangers are attended and accommodated as at their home, in pretty apartments furnish d with all manner of conveniences and privacy. There is a library full of ex- cellent books. There are bathing-roomes, elaboratorie, dispensatorie^ A decoy, and places to keepe and fat fowl in. He had now in his new church (neere the garden) built a dormitory or vault with several reposi- tories in which to burie his family. In the expence of t^i^ pious struc- ture, the church is most laudable, most of the Houses ^l^ fj^^ll country resembling rather stables and thatch d cottages han templ^^^ which \o serve the Most High. He has built a lodge Jhe Park for the keeper, which is a neate dwelling and might become any gentleman. I His daughter, wife of the Duke of Grafton. 396 euston; vice and talents of its noble owner. The same has he don for the parson, Httle deserving it, for murmuring that my Lord put him some time out of his wretched hovel, whilst it was building. He has also erected a faire inn at some distance from his palace, with a bridge of stone over a river neere it, and repaired all the tenants houses, so as there is nothing but neatenesse and accommoda- tions about his estate, which I yet think is not above ;^.i5oo a yeare. I believe he had now in his family loo domestic servants. His lady (being one of the Bredrodes daughters, grandchild to a natural sonn of Henry Frederick Prince of Orange) is a good-natur'd and obliging woman. They love fine things and to live easily, pompously, and hos- pitably, but with so vast expence as plunges my Lord into debt exceed- ingly. My Lord himselfe is given to no expensive vice but building, And to have all things rich, polite, and princely. He never plays, but reades much, having the Latin, French, and Spanish tongues in per- fection. He has travell'd much, and is the best bred and courtly per- son his Majesty has about him, so as the publiq Ministers more frequent him than any of the rest of the Nobility. Whilst he was Secretary of State and Prime Minister he had gotten vastly, but spent it as hastily, even before he had establish'd a fund to maintaine his greatnesse ; and now beginning to decline in favour (the Duke being no great friend of his) he knows not how to retrench. He was sonn of a Doctor of Laws whom I have seene, and being sent from Westminster Schole to Oxford with intention to be a Divine, and parson of Harlington,' a village neere Brainford, when Master of Arts, the Rebellion falling out, he follow'd the King's Army, and receiving an honourable in the face,^grQ\v into favour, and was advanc'd from a meane fortune, at his Majestys restauration, to be an Earle and Knight of the Garter, Lord Chamber- laine of the Household, and first favourite for a long time, during which the King married his natural sonn, the Duke of Grafton, to his onely daughter and heiress, as before mentioned, worthy for her beauty and virtue of the greatest Prince in Christendom. My Lord is, besides this, a prudent and understanding person in businesse and speakes well. Unfortunate yet in those he has advanc'd, most of them proving un- gratefuU. The many obligations and civilities I have receiv'd from this noble gentleman extracts from me this character, and I am sorry he is in no better circumstances. Having now pass'd neere three weeks at Euston to my greate satis- faction, with much difficulty he suffered me to looke homeward, being very earnest with me to stay longer, and to engage me, would himselfe have carried and accompanied me to Lynn Regis, a towne of important trafiiq, about 20 miles beyond, which I had never seene, as also the Travelling Sands about 10 miles wide of Euston, that have so damaged > Sec in Lord Clarendon's Continuation of his Life, &c. a curious circumstance relating to Sir Henry Lennctt's taking his title, when first created a Baron, from this place. A deep cut across his nose, he was always obliged to wear a black patch upon it, and is •o represented ia his portraiu. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 397 the country, rouling from place to place, and like the Sands in the Deserts of Lybia, quite overwhelm'd some gentlemen's whole estates, as the relation extant in print and brought to the Royal Society describes at large. 13 Sept. My Lord's coach convey 'd me to Bury, and thence baiting at Newmarket, stepping in at Audley End to see that house againe, I slept at Bishops Stortford, and the next day home. I was accompanied in my journey by Major Fairfax, of a younger house of the Lord Fair- fax, a souldier, a traveller, an excellent musitian, a good-natur'd well- bred gentleman. 18. I preferred Mr. Philips (nephew of Milton) to the service of my Lord Chamberlaine, who wanted a scholar to reade to &entertainehim sometimes. 12 Oct. With Sir Robert Clayton to Marden, an estate he had bought lately of my kinsman Sir John Evelyn of Godstone in Surrey, which from a despicable farme house Sir Robert had erected into a seate with extraordinary expence. Tis in such a solitude among hills, as being not above 16 miles from London, seems almost incredible, the ways up to it so winding and intricate. The gardens are large, and well wall'd, and the husbandry part made very convenient and perfectly understood. The barnes, the stacks of corne, the stalls for cattle, pigeon-house, &c. of most laudible example. Innumerable are the plantations of trees, especialy wallnuts. The orangerie and gardens are very curious. In the house are large and noble roomes. He and his lady (who is very curious in distillery) entertain'd me three or foure days very freely. I earnestly suggested to him the repairing of an old desolate dilapidated Church, standing on the hill above the house, which I left him in good disposition to do, and endow it better ; there not being above foure or five houses in the parish besides that of this prodigious rich Scrivener 2 This place is exceeding sharp in the winter by reason of the serpenting of the hills ; and it wants running vvater ; but the solitude much pleas'd me. All the ground is so full of wild I Woldingham. The Church consists of one room about 3o/eet long and ,z wid^^^^ without any tower, spire, or bell. It is considered as a Donat.ve -^^"j^J^f J^J^:,^^;^,;^^^^^ performed once a month. No Churchwarden : f^-'^^Sisno itTon w^^^^^ lation Return in 1811, the number of inhabitants was 58. That disposition whicn wa to have appeared subsided ; the Church remains as it then ^vas » In London there was formerly a Company caUed ^cnvcners now ext ber of it, named Ellis, died at the age of more than 90. f ^;J^^^^^^^^^^^^^ now called a the present reign. The business of making purchases, or Conveyancer ; they had money deposited with them for the purpo^^ ^ ^^^^^^^ ^ ^^^.^^ lending on mortgage, they preparing Conveyances. ^ the troubles and the .«^.rr.ir««>«. a gentleman of the name 0, ^^^^^^^ ^.^ clerks at th« great share of this business. Sir Robert Clayton and a Mn^^^^^^^^ ^ same time, and jomtly succeeded to his business - ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Sir Robert. The Mr. Morris died first, and having children, left his P^ope^ty ^ Editor lately saw a deed attested by Mr. Abbot as Schvewr. t^y Clayton as bis ••ervants. 398 THE PRINCE OF ORANGE ; BALL AT COURT ; THE PRINCESS MARY. thyme, marjoram, and other sweete plants, that it cannot be overstock'd with bees ; I think he had neere 40 hives of that industrious insect. 14. I went to Church at Godstone, and to see old Sir John Evelyn's dormitory^ joining to the church, pav'd with marble, where he and his lady lie on a very stately monument at length ; he in armour, of white marble.' The inscription is onely an account of his particular branch of the family on black marble. 15. Returned to London ; in the evening, I saw the Prince oi Orange, and supped with Lord Ossory. 23. Saw againe the Prince of Orange : his marriage with the Lady Mary, eldest daughter to the Duke of York, by Mrs. Hyde, the late Dutchesse, was now declared. II Nov. I was all this week composing matters betweene old Mrs. Howard and Sir Gabriel Sylvius, upon his long and earnest addresses to Mrs. Ann her second daughter, raayd of honor to the Queene. My friend Mrs. Godolphin (v\^ho exceedingly lov'd the young lady) was most industrious in it, out of pitty to the languishing knight ; so as tho' there were greate differences in their yeares, it was at last effected, and they were married the 13th in Hen. 7th's Chapell by the Bishop ot Rochester'-^, there being besides my wife and Mrs. Graham, her sister, Mrs. Godolphin, and very few more. We din'd at the old lady's, and supp'd at Mr. Graham's at St. James's. 1 5. The Queene's birth-day, a greate Ball at Court, where the Prince of Orange and his new Princesse daunced. 19. They went away, and I saw embarqu'd my Lady Sylvius, who went into Holland with her husband, made Hoffmaester to the Pnnce, a considerable employment. We parted with greate sorrow, for the greate respect and honour I bore her, a most pious and virtuous lady. 27. Din'd at the Lord Treasurer s with Prince Rupert, Viscount Falkenberg, Earle of Bathe, Lord O'Brien, Sir John Lowther, Sir Christ. Wren, Dr. Grew, and other learned men. 30. Sir Joseph Williamson, Principal Secretary of State, was chosen President of the Royal Society after my Lord Viscount Brounker had posscss'd the chaire now sixteen yeares successively, and therefore now thought fit to change^ that prescription might not prejudice. 4 Dec. Being the first day of his taking the chaire, he gave us a magnificent supper. 20. Carried to my Lord Treasurer an account of the Earl of Bris- tol's Librarie at Wimbleton, which my Lord thought of purchasing, till I acquainted him that it was a very broken collection, consisting much in books of judicial astrologie, romances, and trifles. 25. I gave my sonn an office, with instructions how to govern hif youth ; 1 pray God give him the grace to make a right use of it ' It is a very fine moimment, in perfect preservation. « Hi. John Dolbcn, *l*o Dcwi of W«..*if minstw. translated afterwards to York. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. j^g 1678. 23 Jan. Din'd with the Duke of Norfolk, being the first time I had scene him since the death of his elder brother, who died at Padoa in Italy, where he had resided above 30 yeares. The Duke had now newly declared his mariage to his concubine, whom he promis'd me he never would marry.' I went with him to see the Duke of Buck- ingham, thence to my Lord Sunderland, now Secretary of State, to shew him that rare piece of Vosterman's (son of old Vosterman) which was a view or landscape of my Lord's palace, &c. at Althorp in North- amptonshire. 8 Feb. Supping at my Lord Chamberlaine's, I had a long discourse with the Conte de Castel Mellor, lately Prime Minister in Portugal, who taking part with his master King Alphonso was banish'd by his brother Don Pedro, now Regent, but had behaved himselfe so uncorruptly in all his ministrie, that tho' he was acquitted and his estate restored, yet would they not suffer him to returne. He is a very intelligent and worthy gentleman. 18. My Lord Treasurer sent for me to accompany him to Wimble- don, which he had lately purchased of the Earle of Bristol : so breaking fast with him privately in his chamber, I accompanied him with two of his daughters, my Lord Conway and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, and having surveyed his gardens and alterations, returned late at night. 22. Dr. Pierce preach'd at White-hall on 2 Thessal. 3. 6. against our late Schismatics, in a rational discourse, but a little over-sharp and not at all proper for the auditory there. 22 Mar. Dr. South preached coram Rege an incomparable discourse on this text, ' A wounded spirit who can beare ! ' Note : Now was our communion table plac'd altar-wise ; the church steeple, clock, and other reparations finished. 16 April. I shew'd Dom. Emanuel de Lyra (Portugal Ambassador) and the Count de Castel Mellor the Repository of the R. Society and the Colledge of Physitians. 18. I went to see New Bedlam Hospital, magnificently built,' and most sweetely placed in More-fields, since the dreadful fire in London. 28 June. I went to Windsor with my Lord Chamberlaine (the Castle now repairing with exceeding cost) to see the rare worke of Verrio, an incomparable carving of Gibbons. 29. Return'd with my Lord by Hounslow Heath, where we saw the new-rais'd army encamp'd, design'd against France, in pretence at ' It appears by the Books of Peerage that his Grace married to his second wife Mrs. Jane Bickerton. daughter of a Scotch gentleman, Robert Bickerton. Esq. who was Gentleman o the Wine Cellar to King Charles II. There are engraved portraits both of this Duke and of '2 ?akerdown, being greatly decayed, in 1814. and a new one erected ^^^^'^^^^J^^'^^^'^ the Thames, in the road leading from St. George's F'^l^s to Lambeth. On pulhng^^^^^^ the foundations were found to be very bad, as it had been built on part °f ^^^^ J^^^^^ ^^^^ on a soil very unfit for the erection of so large a building. Patients were removed to the nc>. building in A\:gust 1815. 400 THE BRITISH GRENADIERS. LIBRARY OF ELIAS ASHMOLE. least, but which gave umbrage to the Parhament. His Majesty and a world of company were in the field, and the whole armie in battalia, a very glorious sight. Now were brought into service a new sort of Sol- diers call'd Granadiers, who were dextrous in flinging hand granados, every one having a pouch full ; they had furr'd caps with coped crownes like Janizaries, which made them looke very fierce, and some had long hoods hanging down behind, as we picture fools. Their clothing being likewise pybald yellow and red. 8 July. Came to dine with me my Lord Longford, Treasurer of Ire- land, nephew to that learned gentleman my Lord Aungier, with whom I was long since acquainted : also the Lady Siddulph and other com- pany. 19. The Earle of Ossory came to take his leave of me, going into Holland to command the English forces. 20. I went to the Tower to try a mettal at the Assay-masters, which onely prov'd Sulphur ; then saw Monsieur Rotiere, that excellent graver belonging to the Mint, who emulates even the ancients, in both mettal and stone ; he was now moulding an horse for the King's statue, to be cast in silver, of a yard high. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint. 23. Went to see Mr. Elias Ashmole's library and curiosities at Lambeth. He has divers MSS. but most of them astrological, to which study he is addicted, tho' I believe not learned, but very indus- trious, as his History of the Order of the Garter proves. He shew'd me a toade included in amber. The prospect from a turret is very fine, it being so neere London, and yet not discovering any house about the country. The famous John Tradescant bequeathed his Repository to this gentleman, who has given them to the University of Oxford, and erected a lecture on them, over the Laboratorie, in imita- tion of the R. Society.^ Mr. Godolphin was made Master of the Robes to the King. 25. There was sent me ^.70, from whom I knew not, to be by me distributed among poore people ; 1 afterwards found it was from that deere friend (Mrs. Godolphin) who had frequently given me large sums to bestow on charities. 16 Aug. I went to Lady Mordaunt, who put ^.100 into my hands to dispose of for pious uses, relief of prisoners, poore, &c. Many a sum had she sent me on similar occasions ; a blessed creature she was, and one that loved and feared God exemplarily. 23. Upon Sir Robert Reading's importunity I went to visite the I The donation took place in 1677. and a suitable building was erected by Sir Christ. Wren, bearing the name of the ' Ashmolcan Museum.' This was the first public institution for the rccepuon of rarities m Art or Nature established in England ; and in the infancy of the study of Natural History m this country, pos.sessed what was then considered as a valuable and su- p This hons« was the property of Mrs. Bickerton whom the ^^^^^l^;^ J^^^^lt^X she married Mr. Maxwell, and they, together with Lord George toward O^er eldest so^^j^^^ Duke) sold it to the Countess of Dorchester (mistress fo James , ^ ^ David Colyer Earl of Portmore, whose descendant is the present owner, but the Inhabited, and in a most ruinous state (1816). ^02 SHEENE ; SIR WILL. TEMPLE ; THE ARUNDELIAN LIBRARY. 27 Aug. I tooke leave of the Duke, and din'd at Mr. Hen. Brouno ker's, at the Abby of Sheene, formerly a monastery of Carthusians, there yet remaining one of their solitary cells with a crosse. Within this ample inclosure are several pretty villas and fine gardens of the most excellent fruites, especialy Sir William Temple's (lately Ambasp sador into Holland), and the Lord Lisle's, sonn to the Earle of Leices* ter, who has divers rare pictures, and above all, that of Sir Brian Tuke's by Holbein. After dinner I walk'd to Ham, to see the house and garden of the Duke of Lauderdale, which is indeede inferior to few of the best villas in Italy itselfe ; the house furnish'd like a greate Prince's ; the par- terres, flower gardens, orangeries, groves, avenues, courts, statues, per- spectives, fountaines, aviaries, and all this at the banks of the sweetest river in the world, must needes be admirable. Hence I went to my worthy friend Sir Henry Capel [at Kew] brother to the Earle of Essex : it is an old timber house, but his garden has the choicest fruit of any plantation in England, as he is the most industrious and understanding in it. 29. I was call'd to London to wait upon the D. of Norfolk, who having at my sole request bestow'd the Arundeiian Library on the Royal Society, sent to me to take charge of the bookes and remove them, onely stipulating that I would suffer the Heraulds cheif officer, Sir William Dugdale, to have such of them as concerned Herauldry and the Marshall's office, bookes of Armorie and Genealogies, the Duke being Earl Marshall of England. I procur'd for our Society, besides printed bookes, neere 100 MSS., some in Greeke of greate con- cernment. The printed bookes being of the oldest impressions are not the lesse valuable ; I esteem them almost equal to MSS. Amongst them are most of the Fathers printed at Basil before the Jesuits abus'd them with their expurgatory Indexes ; there is a noble MS. of Vitru- vius. Many of these bookes had ben presented by Popes, Cardinals, and greate persons, to the Earls of Arundel and Dukes of Norfolk ; and the late magnificent Earle of Arundel bought a noble library in Germanic, which is in this collection. I should not, for the honour I beare the family, have persuaded the Duke to part with these, had I not scene how negligent he was of them, suffering the priests and every body to carry away and dispose of what they pleas'd, so that abun- dance of rare things are irrecoverably gone. Having taken order here, I went to the Royal Society to give them an account of what I had procur'd, that they might call a Council and appoint a day to waite on the Duke to thank him for this munificent gift. 3 Sept. I went to London to dine with Mrs. Godolphin [formerly Mrs. Blagg, who had ben maid of honour to the Queene], and found her m labour ; she was brought to bed of a sonn, who was baptiz'd in the chamber, by the name of Francis, the susceptors being Sir William THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 403 Goilolphin (head of the family), Mr. John Harvey, Treassurer to the Queene, and Mrs. Boscawen, sister to Sir WilHam and the father. 8. Whilst I was at church came a letter from Mr. Godolphin that my deare friend his lady was exceedingly ill, and desiring my prayers and assistance. My wife and I tooke boate immediately and went to White-hall, where, to my inexpressible sorrow, I found she had ben attacq'd with the new fever, then reigning this excessive hot autumn, and which was so violent that it was not thought she could last many hours. 9. She died in the 26th yeare of her age, to the inexpressible afflic- tion of her deare husband and all her relations, but of none in the world more than of myselfe, who lost the most excellent and inestimable friend that ever liv'd. Never was a more virtuous and inviolable friend- ship ; never a more religious, discreet and admirable creature, beloved of all, admired of all, for all possible perfections of her sex. She is gon to receive the reward of her signal charity, and all other her Chris- tian graces, too blessed a creature to converse with mortals, fitted aa she was by a most holy life to be received into the mansions above- She was for witt, beauty, good-nature, fidelity, discretion, and all accom- plishments, the most incomparable person. How shall I ever repay the obligations to her for the infinite good offices she did my soule by so oft ingaging me to make religion the termes and tie of the friendship there was between us ! She was the best wife, the best mistress, the best friend that ever husband had. But it is not here that I pretend to give her character, having designed to consecrate an account of her worthy iife to poste7'ity. Her husband, struck with unspeakable affliction, fell down as dead. The King himselfe and all the Court expressed their sorrow. To the poore and miserable her losse was irreparable, for there was no degree but had some obligation to her memorie. So carefull and provident was she to be prepared for all possible accidents, that (as if she foresaw her end) she received the heavenly viaticum but the Sunday before, after a most solemn recollection. She put all her domestic concerns into the exactest order, and left a letter directed to her husband, to be opened in case she died in child-bed, in which with the most P^t^etic and endearing expressions of a most loyal and virtuous wife she begs his kindnesse to her memorie might be continu'd by his care and esteeme of those she left behind, even to her domestic servants, to the meanest of which she left considerable legacies, as well as to the poore. It was now seven yeares since she was maid of honor to the Queene, that she regarded me as a father, a brother, and what is more, a friend. We often prayed, visited the sick and miserable, received, ^"^^^ discoursed and communicated in holy offices together. She was "^^st deare to my wife and affectionate to my children. ^^^^^^^ " ' Jthdd h^^ my comfort that she is happy in Christ and I .hall shortly behold her DEATH OF MRS. GODOLPHIN ; HER FUNERAL ; HER PAPERS. againe ! • She desir'd to be buried in the dormitorie of his family, neere 300 miles from all her other friends. So afflicted was her hus- band at this severe losse, that the intire care of her funerall was com- mitted to me. Having closed the eyes and dropped a teare upon the cheeke of my deare departed friend, lovely even in death, I caused her corps to be embalmed and wrapped in lead, with a plate of brasse soldered thereon, with an inscription, and other circumstances due to her worth, with as much diligence and care as my greived heart would permit me ; I then retired home for two daies, which were spent in solitude and sad reflections. 17. She was accordingly carried to Godolphin in Cornwall, in a hearse with six horses, attended by two coaches of as many, with about 30 of her relations and servants. There accompanied the hearse her husband's brother Sir William, two more of his brothers, and three sisters ; her husband was so overcome with grief, that he was wholly unfit to travel so long a journey till he was more composed. I went as far as Hounslow with a sad heart, but was obliged to return upon some indispensible affaires. The corpse was ordered to be taken out of the hearse every night, and decently placed in the house, with tapers about it, and her servants attending, to Cornwall ; and then was honor- ably interr'd in the parish church of Godolphin. This funeral cost not much less than 1,000. With Mr. Godolphin I looked over and sorted his lady's papers, most of which consisted of Prayers, Meditations, Sermon-notes, Discourses, and Collections on severall religious subjects, and many of her owne happy composing, and so pertinently digested, as if she had ben all her life a student in divinity. We found a diary of her solemn resolutions, all tending to practical virtue, with letters from select friends, all put into exact method. It astonish'd us to see what she had read and written, her youth considered. I Oct. The Parliament and the whole Nation were alarm'd about a conspiracy of some eminent Papists for the destruction of the King and introduction of Popery, discovered by one Gates and Dr. Tongue,' « In the subsequent part of these memoirs it will appear that Mr. Godolphin (afterwards Lord Godolphin) continued the steady friend of Mr. Evelyn, whose grandson married into the family. The infant now mentioned as born, carried on the friendship to the family through a long life. ^ Ezrael Tong, bred in University College, Oxford, being puritanically inclined, quitted the University, but in 1648 returned, nnd was made a Fellow. He had the living of Pluckley in Kent, but quitted it, being vexed by his parishioners and Quakers. In l6<^ he was made Fel- low of the uew erected College at Durham, and that being dissolved in 1660. he taught school at Islington. He then went with Col. Edward Harley to Dunkirk, but that being given up, he took a small livmg in Herefordshire (Lentwardine) ; but soon quitted it for St. Mary Stayn- 1° m'°u ^^'^"^ ^'■^ "^^^ ""'^^'^ St. Michael, Wood Street, and hr held them to his death, in 1680. He was a great opponent of the Papists. Wood mentions several publications of his, amongst which are, 'The Jesuits unmasked.' 1678; 'Jesuitical Aphonsms 1678 The Jesuits' Morals,' 1680(1670) ; the two last translated from the French WoodsAthcn. Oxon. vol. II. p. 50c. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. which last I knew, beinf^ the translator of the ^ Jesuite^ Morals; I went to see and converse with him at White-hall, with Mr. Gates, one that was lately an apostate to the Church of Rome, and now returned againe with this discovery. He seem'd to be a bold man, and in my thoughts furiously indiscreete ; but every body behev'd what he said ; and it quite chang'd the genius and motions of the Parliament, growing now corrupt and interested with long sitting and court prac- tices : but with all this Poperie would not go downe. This discoverie tum'd them all as one man against it, and nothing was don but to find out the depth of this. Gates was encourag'd, and every thing he affirm'd taken for gospel ; — the tnith is, the Roman Catholics were ex- ceeding bold and busy every where, since the Duke forbore to go any V)nger to the Chapell. 16 Get. Mr. Godolphin requested me to continue the trust his wife had reposed in me in behalfe of his little sonn, conjuring me to transfer the friendship I had for his deare wife, on him and his. 21 Oct. The murder of Sir Edmonbury Godfrey, found strangl'd about this time, as was manifest by the Papists, he being a Justice of the Peace, and one who knew much of their practices, as conversant with Colman (a servant of the . . . . now accus'd), put the whole nation into a new ferment against them. 31. Being my 58th of my age, required my humble addresses to Almighty God, and that he would take off his heavy hand, still on my family, and restore comforts to us after the losse of my excellent friend. 5 Nov. Dr. Tillotson preach'd before the Commons at St. Mar- garet's. He said the Papists were now ariv'd at that impudence as to deny that there ever was any such thing as the gunpowder conspiracy; but he affirm'd that he himself had severall letters written by Sir Eve- rard Digby (one of the traytors), in which he gloried that he was to suffer for it ; and that it was so contriv'd, that of the Papists not above two or three should have ben blown up, and they, such as were not worth saving. 1 5. The Queene's birth-day. I never saw the Court more brave, nor the nation in more apprehension and consternation. Coleman and one Staly had now ben tried, condemn'd, and executed. Gn this Gates grew so presumptuous, as to accuse the Queene of intendmg to poison the King, which certainly thatpiousandjv^^^ Mr7EvelynTpeakr^D;T^ro"i^^ having translated the last of "-"^^f.}]^']^^^^^-^^^ . Oates said that Thomas Whitbread, a priest, on 13 June. :6 . . did tel Rector of St Omers,that a Minister of the Church of England had ^^^^^^^'^^^'^ Morals ' in English, and had endeavoured to render them odious, and had asked t>e Rect°' whether he thought Oates might know him ? and the Rector called the ^^^^^'^"^^^l^'^ll these words as he stood at the chamber door, and when he went mto the ^^^^ f^^^ll'^ vincial, he asked him 'If he knew the author of the Jesuits Morals ? dep^^^^^ ' His person, but not his name.' Whitbread then demanded whether 'l^J^j'^^^/^J^'^^JJ poison or assassinate the author; which deponent undertook, having l^o. reward prom.^d him. and apppointed to return to England.-From a pubacatjon of Oau.. 406 TITUS GATES AND THE PAPISTS. DISSOLUTION OF PARLIAMENT. the thoughts of, and Gates his circumstances made it utterly unhkely, in my opinion He probably thought to gratifie some who would have ben glad his Majesty should have married a fruitful! lady ; but the King was too kind i husband to let any of these make impression on him. However divt-rs of the Popish Peeres were sent to the Towre, accus'd by Gates, and all the Roman Catholic Lords were by a new act for ever excluded the Parliament, which was a mighty blow. The King's, Queen's, and Duke's servants, were banish'd, and a test to be taken by every body who pretended to enjoy any office of pubHq trust, and who would not be suspected of Popery. I went with Sir William Godolphin, a member of the Commons House, to the Bishop of Ely (Dr. Pet. Gun- ning), to be resolv'd whether masses were idolatry, as the test express'd it, which was so worded that several good Protestants scrupl'd, and Sir William, tho' a learned man and excellent divine himselfe, had some doubts about it. The Bishop's opinion was, that he might take it, tho' he wish'd it had ben otherwise worded in the test. 1679. '5 J^^' I went with my Lady Sunderland to Chelsey, and din'd with the Countesse of Bristol [her mother] in the greate house, formerly the Duke of Buckingham's, a spacious and excellent place for the extent of ground and situation in a good aire. The house is large, but ill contriv'd, tho' my Lord of Bristol, who purchas'd it after he sold Wimbledon to my Lord Treasurer, expended much mony on it. There were divers pictures of Titian and Vandyke, and some of Bassano, very excellent, especialy an Adonis afid Venus, a Duke of Venice, a Butcher in his shambles selling meate to a Swissej and of Van-Dyke, my Lord of BristoVs picture, with the Earl of Bedford's at length, in the same table. There was in the garden a rare collection of orange- trees, of which she was pleas'd to bestow some upon me. 16. I supp'd this night with Mr. Secretary at one Mr. Houblon's, a French merchant, who had his house furnish'd en Prince, and gave us a splendid entertainment. 25. The Long Parliament, which had sat ever since the Restaura- tion, was dissolv'd by persuasion of the Lord Treassurer, tho' divers of them were believ'd to be his pensioners. At this all the politicians were at a stand, they being very eager in pursuite of the late Plot of the Papists. 30. Dr. Cudworth preached before the King at White-hall, on 2 Timothy 3. 5. reckoning up the perils of the last times, in which, \mongst other wickcdncsse. Treasons should be one of the greatest, Applying it to the occasion, as committed under a forme of reformation and godlinesse ; concluding that the prophesy did intend more par- ticularly the present age, as one of the last times ; the sinns there enumerated, more aboundantly reigning than ever. 2 Feb. Dr. Durell, Dean of Windsor, preach'd to the Household at White-hall, on i Cor. 16. -2 ; he read the whole sermon out of his THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 40? notes, which I had never before scene a Frenchman do, he being of Jersey, and bred at Paris. 4. Dr. Pierce, Deane of Salisbury, preached on i John 4. i, 'Try the Spirits, there being so many delusorie ones gone forth of late into the world he inveied against the pernicious doctrines of Mr. Hobbes. Mr. brother Evelyn was now chosen Knight for the County of Surrey, carrying it against my Lord Longford and Sir Adam Brown of Betch- worth Castle. The country coming in to give him their suffrages were so many, that I believe they eate and dranke him out neere ;^2,ooo, by a most abominable costome. I April. My friend Mr. Godolphin was now made one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, and of the Privy Council. 4. The Bp. of Gloucester preach'd, in a manner very like Bishop Andrews, full of divisions, and scholastical, and that with much quick, nesse. The holy Communion followed. 20. Easter Day. Our Vicar preached exceeding well on i Cor. 5 and 7. The holy Communion followed, at which I and my daughter Mary (now about 14 yeares old) received for the first time. The Lord Jesus continue his grace unto her, and improve this blessed beginning. 24. The Duke of York, voted against by the Commons for his recusancy, went over to Flanders, which made much discourse. 4 June. I din'd with Mr. Pepys in the Tower, he having ben com- mitted by the House of Commons for misdemeanors in the Admiralty when he was Secretary ; I believe he was unjustly charged \ Here I saluted my Lords Stafford and Petre, who were committed for the Popish Plot. 7. I saw the magnificent cavalcade and entry of the Portugal Am- bassador. 17. I was godfather to a sonn of Sir Christopher Wren, Surveyor of his Majestys buildings, that most excellent and learned person, with Sir William Fermor and my Lady Viscountesse Newport, wife of the Treasurer of the Household. " Thence to Chclsey, to Sir Stephen Fox, and my lady, in order to his purchase of the Countesse of Bristol's house there, which she desir'd me to procure a chapman for. 19. I din"d at Sir Robert Clayton's with Sir Robert Vmer, the greate banquer. 22. There were now divers Jesuites executed about the Plot, and a rebellion in Scotland of the Phanatics, so that there was a sad pros- pect of public affairs. . 25. The new Commissioners of the Admiralty came to visite me, 1 Mr. Pepys was concerned in a contested election in 1684, and '''^^°PP°"^";. """'^^.^I™ of being a Papist, which the House of Commons inquired mto. but '^"^^^"^'"/^^^P^^^^^^ By Grey's Debates it appears that he was accused of havmg sent mformation to the French court of the sute of the English Navy. Most incredible « 408 COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. A VOUNG PRODIGY. viz. Sir Henry Capel, brother to the Earle of Essex, Mr. Finch, eldest son to the Lord Chancellor, Sir Humph. Winch, Sir Thomas Meeres, Mr. Hales, with some of the Commissioners of the Navy. I went with them to London. I July. I dined at Sir W. Godolphin's, and with that learned gentleman went to take the aire in Hyde Park, where was a glorious cortege. 3 July. Sending a piece of venison to Mr. Pepys, still a prisoner, 1 went and din'd with him. 6. Now were there papers, speeches, and libels, publiqly cried in the streetes against the Dukes of York and Lauderdale, &c. obnoxious to the Parliament, with too much and indeede too shameful a liberty ; but the people and Parliament had gotten head by reason of the vices of the greate ones. There was now brought up to London a child, son of one Mr. \Votton\ formerly amanuensis to Dr. Andrews, Bishop of Winton, who both read and perfectly understood Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabic, Syriac, and most of the modern languages ; disputed in Divinity, Law, and all the Sciences ; was skilful in History both Ecclesiastical and Profane ; in Politics ; in a word, so universally and solidly learned at 1 1 yeares of age, that he was looked on as a miracle. Dr. Lloyd, one of the most deepe learned divines of this nation in all sorts of litera- ture, with Dr. Burnet, who had severely examin'd him, came away 1 The Rev. Henry Wotton, Minister of Wrentham, in Suffolk. This son was afterwards the celebrated Wm. Wotton, the friend and defender of Dr. Bentley, and the antagonist of Sir William Temple in the great Controversy about Antient and Modern Learning. His early and extraordinary proficiency in letters and general knowledge of every kind, was comme- ir.orated by his father in a pamphlet ' On the Education of Children,' addressed to King Charles II. and reprinted in 1753, with the attestations of several learned men who had exam- ined him, to the truth of his uncommon abilities and wonderful acquisitions in the different languages, both antient and modern : yet it is remarkable those eminent qualifications did not advance him in the line of his profession beyond a Fellowship at Cambridge and a country parsonage, viz. Milton, in Buckinghamshire, which was given him by the Earl of Nottingham, to whom he had been Chaplain. Sir Philip Skippon, who lived at Wrentham, in Suffolk, in a letter to Mr. John Ray, Sep. 18, 1671, writes: *I shall somewhat surprize you with what I have seen in a little boy, William Wotton, 5 years old last month, son of Mr. Wotton, minister of this parish, who hath instructed his child within the last 3 quarters of a year in the reading the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew languages, which he can read almost as well as English, and that tongue he could read at four years and three months old, as well as most lads of twice his age.' Sir Philip left a draught of a longer letter to Mr. Ray, in which he adds, ' He is not yet able to parse any language, but what he performs in turning the 3 learned tongues into Kn^lish, is done by strength of memory, so that he is ready to mistake when some words of different signification have near the same sound. His father hath taught him by no rules, but only uses his memory in remembering words.'— He was admitted of Catherine Hall, Cam- biidge, April, 1676, some months before he was 10 years old. He took the degree of B. A. when only 12 years and 5 months old. Dr. Burnet, Bp. of Sarum, recommended him to Dr. Lloyd, Bp. of St. Asaph, who took him as an assistant in making a Catalogue of his books, and carried him to St. Asaph, and gave him the sinecure of Llandrillo in Denbighshire. He s'lfTcred from the satirical pen of Swift ; but this is no wonder, as he had spoken of the Tale of a Tub as a profane piece of ribaldry. He compiled Memoirs of the Cathedral Churches of St. David and St. Asaph, which Browne Willis published. When very young, he remembered almost the whole of .my discourse he had heard, and repeated to Bp. Lloyd one of his o'.vii *crmons. He died in 1726, aged 6i, and way l^uried at Buxted in Sussex. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, astonishM, and told me they did not believe there had the like appeared in the world. Me had onely ben instructed by his father, who being himselfe a learned person, confess'd that his sonn knew all that he him- selfe knew. But what was more admirable than his vast memory was his judgment and invention, he being tried with divers hard questions, which requir'd maturity of thought and experience. He was also dex- trous in Chronology, Antiquities, Mathematics. In sum, an Intellectus universalis, beyond all that we reade of Picus Mirandula, and other precoce witts, and yet withall a very humble child. 14. I went to see how things stood at Parson's Green, my lady Viscountesse Mordaunt (now sick in Paris, whither she went for health) having made me a trustee for her children, an office I could not refuse to this most excellent, pious, and virtuous lady, my long acquaintance. 15. I din'd with Mr. Sidney Godolphin, now one of the Lords Com- missioners of the Treasury. 18. I went early to the Old Bailey Sessions-house, to the famous trial of Sir George Wakeman, one of the Queene's physitians, and three Benedictine Monks ; the first (whom I was well acquainted with, and take to be a worthy gentleman abhorring such a fact) for intending to poison the King ; the others, as accomplices to carry on the plott, to subvert the government and introduce Popery. The Bench was crowded with the Judges, Lord Maior, Justices, and innumerable spectators. The cheife accusers, Dr. Gates (as he call'd himselfe), and one Bedlow, a man of inferior note. Their testimonys were not so pregnant, and I feare much of it from hearsay, but swearing positively to some particu- lars, which drew suspicion upon their truth ; nor did circumstances so agree as to give either the Bench or Jury so entire satisfaction as was expected. After therefore a long and tedious tryal of 9 houres, the Jury brought them in not guilty, to the extraordinary triumph of the Papists, and without sufficient disadvantage and reflections on the wit- nesses, especialy Gates and Bedlow. This was a happy day for the Lords in the Tower, who expecting their triall, bad this gon against the prisoners at the bar, would all have ben in the utmost hazard. For my part, I looke on Gates as a vain insolent man, puff'd up with the favour of the Commons for having discover'd something realy true, more espe- cialy as detecting the dangerous intrigue of Coleman, prov'd out of his owne letters, and of a generall designe which the Jesuited party of the Papists ever had, and still have, to ruine the Church of England ; but that he was trusted with those greate seacrets he pretended, or had any sohd ground for what he accus'd divers noblemen of, I have many reasons to induce my contrary beliefe. That among so many Com- missions as he affirm'd to have deliver'd to them from P. Gliva» and the Pope, he who made no scruple of opening all other papers, letters, and seacrets, should not only not open any of those pretended Com- 1 Padrfi Oliva, General of the Order of Jesuits. 4IO TITUS GATES. COLEMAN THE JESUIT. CLIFDEN HOUSE. missions, but not so much as take any copy or witnesse of any one oi them, is almost miraculous. But the Commons (some leading persons I meane of them) had so exalted him, that they tooke all he said for gospell, and without more ado ruin'd all whom he nam'd to be conspi- rators ; nor did he spare whoever came in his way. But indeede the murder of Sir Edm. Godfrey, suspected to have ben compass'd by the Jesuite party for his intimacy with Coleman (a buisy person whom I also knew) and the feare they had that he was able to have discover'd some things to their prejudice, did so exasperate not only the Commons but all the Nation, that much of these sharpnesses against the more honest Roman Catholics who liv'd peaceably, is to be imputed to that horrid fact. The Sessions ended, I din'd, or rather supp'd (so late it was), with the Judges 1 in the large roome annex'd to the place, and so return'd home. Tho' it was not my costome or delight to be often present at any capital trials, we having them commonly so exactly publish'd by those who take them in short-hand, yet I was inclin'd to be at this signal one, that by the ocular view of the carriages and other circum- stances of the managers and parties concerned, I might informe my- selfe, and regulate my opinion of a cause that had so grievously alarm'd the whole nation. 22 July. Din'd at Chipham at Sir D. Gauden's ; went thence with him to Windsor, to assist him in a business with his Majesty. I lay that night at Eton College, the Provost's lodgings (Dr. Craddock), where I was courteously entertained. 23. To Court : after dinner I visited that excellent painter Verrio, whose works in fresca in the King's palace at Windsor will celebrate his name as long as those walls last. He shew'd us his pretty garden, choice flowers, and curiosities, he himselfe being a skilfull gardener. I went to Clifden, that stupendous natural rock, wood, and prospect, of the Duke of Buckingham's,'' buildings of extraordinary expence. The grotts in the chalky rock are pretty : 'tis a romantic object, and the place altogether answers the most poetical description that can be made of solitude, precipice, prospect, or whatever can contribute to a thing !?o very like their imaginations. The stande, somewhat like JrascatidiS to its front, and on the platform, is a circular view to the utmost verge of the horizon, which with the serpenting of the Thames is admirable. The staire case is for its materials singular ; the cloisters, descents, gardens, and avenue thro' the wood, august and stately, but the land all about wretchedly barren, and producing nothing but feme. Indeede, as 1 ^ The Judges were, Lord Chief Justice North, Mr. Justice Atkins, Mr. Justice Windham, Mr. Justice Pemberton, Mr. Jjustice Dolben. ' Cliefden's proud alcove. The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and Love. Pope. The Countess of Shrewsbury, whose husband having challenged the Duke, she is said t« Have held the horse of the latter in the habit of a page whilst they fought THE DIARY oi-' JOHN EVELYN. 411 told his Majesty that evening (asking me how I Hk'd Clifden) without flattery, that it did not please me so well as Windsor for the prospect and park, which is without compare, there being but one only opening, and that narrow, which led one to any variety, whereas that of Windsor is every where greate and unconfin'd. Returning I call'd at my cousin Evelyn's, who has a very pretty seate in the forest, 2 miles behither Clifden, on a flat, with gardens exqui- sitely kept tho' large, and the house a stanch good old building, and what was singular, some of the roomes floor'd dove-tail-wise v/ithout a nail, exactly close. One of the closetts is parquetted with plaine deale, set in diamond, exceeding stanch and pretty. 7 Aug. Dined at the Sherifi's, when, the Company of Drapers and their wives being invited, there was a sumptuous entertainment ac- cording to the formes of the Citty with musiq, &c. comparable to any Prince's service in Europ. 8. I went this morning to shew my Lord Chamberlaine, his Lady, and the Dutchesse of Grafton, the incomparable work of Mr. Gibbons the carver, whom I first recommended to his Majesty, his house being furnish'd like a cabinet, not onely with his owne work, but divers ex- cellent paintings of the best hands. Thence to Sir Stephen Foxes, where we spent the day. 31. After evening service to see a neighbour, one Mr. Bohun, re- lated to my sonn's late tutor of that name, a rich Spanish merchant, living in a neate place, which he has adorned with many curiosities, especialy severall carvings of Mr. Gibbons, and some pictures by Streeter. 13 Sept. To Windsor, to congratulate his Majesty on his recovery ; 1 kiss'd the Duke's hand now lately return'd from Flanders to visite his brother the King, on which there were various bold and foolish dis- courses, the Duke of "Monmouth being sent away. 19. My Lord Sunderland, one of the principal Secretaries of State, invited me to dinner, where was the King's natural sonn, the Earle of Plymouth, the Earle of Shrewsbury, E. of Essex, E. of Mulgrave, Mr. Hyde, and Mr. Godolphin. After dinner I went to prayers at Eton, and visited Mr. Hen. Godolphin, fellow there, and Dr. Cradock. 25. Mr. Slingsby and Signior Verrio came to dine with me, to whom I gave China oranges off my owne trees, as good, I think, as were ever eaten. 6 Oct. A very wet and sickly season. 23. Dined at my Lo. Chamberlaines, the King being now newly re- turned from his New-market recreations. , , 4 Nov. Din'd at the Lord Maior's, and in the evening went to the funerall of my pious, dear, and ancient learned friend, Dr. J^^per Need- ham, who was buried at St. Bride's Church. He was a true and holy Christian, and one who lov'd me with greate affection. Dr. Dove J 12 BLOOMSBURY. REMARRIAGE OF THE DUKE OF GRAFTON. preach'd with an eulogie due to his memory. I lost in this person one of my dearest remaining sincere friends. 5. I was invited to dine at my Lord Tividale's, a Scotch Earle, a learned and knowing nobleman. We afterwards went to see Mr. Mountague's new palace neere Bloomsbery, built by our curator Mr. Hooke, somewhat after the French ; it was most nobly furnish'd, and a fine, but too much expos'd garden. 6. Din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's, and was this evening at the re-marriage of the Dutchesse of Grafton to the Duke (his Majesty's natural sonn) she being now 12 years old. The ceremonie v/as per- formed in my Lord Chamberlain es (her fathers) lodgings at White-hall by the Bishop of Rochester, his Majesty being present. A sudden and unexpected thing, when every body believ'd the first marriage would have come to nothing ; but the measure being determin'd I was pri- vately invited by my Lady, her mother, to be present. I confesse I could give her little joy, and so I plainely told her, but she said the King would have it so, and there was no going back. This sweetest, hopefullest, most beautifull child, and most vertuous too, was sacrific'd to a boy that had ben rudely bred, without any thing to encourage them but his Majesty's pleasure. I pray God the sweete child find it to her advantage, who, if my augury deceive me not, will in few years be such a paragon as were fit to make the wife of the greatest Prince in Europe. I staied supper, where his Majesty sate betweene the Dutchesse of Cleaveland (the mother of the Duke of Grafton) and the sweete Dutchesse the bride ; there were several greate persons and ladies, without pomp. My love to my Lord Arlington's family and the sweete child made me behold all this with regret, tho' as the Duke of Grafton affects the sea, to which .1 find his father intends to use him, he may emerge a plaine, usefuU, and robust officer, and were he polish'd, a tolerable person, for he is exceeding handsome, by far surpassing any of the King's other naturall issue. 8 Nov. At Sir Stephen Fox's, and was agreeing for the Countesse of Bristol's house at Chelsey within £.$00. 18. I din"d at my Lord Maiors [Sir Robert Clayton] being desired by the Countesse of Sunderland to carry her thither on a solemn day, that she might see the pomp and ceremonie of this Prince of Citizens, there never having ben any, who, for the stateliness of his palace, pro- digious feasting, and magnificence, exceeded him. This Lord Maior's acquaintance had ben from the time of his being apprentice to one Mr. -Abbot, his uncle, who being a scrivener, and an honest worthy man, one who was condemn'd to die at the beginning of the troubles 4c years past, as concern'd in the commission of array for K. Charles I. had escap'd with his hfe ; I often us'd his assistance in money matters. Robert Clayton, then a boy, his nephew, became after his uncle Abbot's death, so prodigiously rich and opulent, that he was reckon'd THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. tjne of the wealthiest citizens. He married a free-hearted woman, who became his hospitable disposition, and having no children, with the accession of his partner (Morris) and fellow apprentice, who also left him his estate, he grew excessively rich. He was a discreete magis- trate, and tho' envied, I think without much cause. Some believ'd him guilty of hard dealing, especialy with the Duke of Buckingham, much of whose estate he had swallow'd, but I never saw any ill by him, con- sidering the trade he was of. The reputation and known integrity of his uncle Abbot brought all the royal party to him, by which he got not onely greate credit, but vast wealth, so as he passM this office with in- finite magnificence and honor. 20 Nov. I din'd with Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, with my wife, invited to heare musiq, which was exquisitely perform'd by foure of the most renown'd masters ; Du Prue, a Frenchman, on the lute ; Signor Bartholomeo, an Italian, on the harpsichord ; Nicolao on the violin ; but above all for its sweetnesse and novelty, the viol d^amore of 5 wyre-strings plaied on with a bow, being but an ordinary violin, play'd on lyre way by a German. There was also a flute douce, now in much request for accompanying the voice Mr. Slingsby, whose sonn and daughter play'd skilfully, had these meetings frequently in his /louse. 21. I din'd at my Lord Maior's to accompany my worthiest and generous friend the Earl of Ossorie ; it was on a Friday, a private day, but the feast and entertainment might have become a King. Such an hospitable costume and splendid magistrature dos no city in the world shew, as I believe. 23. Dr. Allestree preach'd before the household on 1 1 St. Luke 2. Dr. Lloyd on 28 Matt. 20. before the King, shewing with how little reason the Papists applied those words of our Blessed Saviour to main- taine the pretended infallibility they boast of. I never heard a more Christian and excellent discourse : yet were some offended that he seemed to say the Church of Rome was a true Church ; but 'twas a captious mistake, for he never affirmed any thing that could be more to their reproach, and that such was the present Church of Rome, show- ing how much it had erred. There was not in this sermon so much as a shadow for censure, no person of all the Cleargy having testified greater zeale against the errors of the Papists than this pious and most learned person. I dined at the Bishop of Rochester's, and then went to St. Paul's to heare that greate wit Dr. Sprat, now newly succeeding Dr. Outram in the cure of St. Margaret's. His talent was a great memory, never making use of notes, a readinesse of expression in a most pure and plain style of words, full of matter, easily deliver'd. ?6 Nov. I met the Earle of Clarendon with the rest of my fellow exrcutors of the Will of my late Lady Viscountesse Mordaunt, viz. Mr. -aurence Hyde, one of the Commissioners of the Treasury, and lately 414 LAURENCE HYDE; LORD OSSORIE ; MARRIAGE OF MY SON. Plenipotentiary Ambassador at Nimeguen ; Andrew Newport, and Sii Charles Wheeler, to examine and audit and dispose of this year's accompt of the estate of this excellent Lady, according to the direction of her will. 27. I went to see Sir John Stonehouse, with whom I was treating a marriage between my sonn and his daughter-in-law. 28. Came over the Duke of Monmouth from Holland unexpectedly to his Majesty, whilst the Duke of York was on his journey to Scotland, whither the King sent him to reside and governe. The bells and bon- fires of the Citty at this arrival of the Duke of Monmouth publishing their joy, to the no small regret of some at Court. This Duke, whonr for distinction they call'd the Protestant Duke (tho' the sonn of an abandon'd woman), the people made their idol. 4 Dec. I din'd, together with Lord Ossorie and the E. of Chester- field, at the Portugal Ambassadors, now newly come, at Cleaveland House, a noble palace, too good for that infamous The staire-case is sumptuous, and the gallerie and garden, but above all the costly furniture belonging to the Ambassador, especialy the rich Japan cabinets, of which I think there were a dozen. There was a billiard- table, with as many more hazards as ours commonly have ; the game being only to prosecute the ball till hazarded, without passing the port or touching the pin ; if one miss hitting the ball every time, the game is lost, or if hazarded. Tis more difficult to hazard a ball, tho' so many, than in our table, by reason the bound is made so exactly even, and the edges not stuff'd ; the balls also are bigger, and they for the most part use the sharp and small end of the billiard stick, which is shod with brasse or silver. The entertainment was exceeding civil, but besides a good olio, the dishes were trifling, hash'd and condited after their way, not at all fit for an English stomach, which is for solid meate. There was yet good fowle, but roasted to coale, nor were the sweet- meates good. 30 Dec. I went to meete Sir John Stonehouse, and give him a par- ticular of the settlement on my sonn, who now made his adresses to the young lady his daughter-in-law, daughter of Lady Stonehouse. 1680. 25 Jan. Dr. Cave, author of ' Primitive ChVistianity,' &c. a pious and learned man, preached at White-hall to the household on 3 James 17, concerning the duty of grace and charity. 30. I supped with Sir Stephen Fox, now made one of the Lords Commisiioners of the Treasury. 19 Feb. The writings for the settling joynture and other contracts of marriage of my sonn were finished and sealed. The lady was to bring 5000/. in consideration of a settlement of 500/. a yeare present maintenance, which was likewise to be her jointure, and 500/. a yeare after myne and my wife's decease. But with God's blessing it will be at the least 1000/. a yeare more in few yeares. I pray God make him THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^15 worthy of it, and a comfort to his excellent mother, who deserves much from him. 21. Shrove Tuesday. My sonn was married to Mrs. Martha Spen- cer, daughter to my Lady Stonehouse by a former gentleman, at St Andrew's Holborn, by our Vicar, borrowing the Church of Dr. Stilling- fleet, Deane of St. Paul's, the present incumbent. We afterwards din'd at a house in Holborn ; and after the solemnity and dauncing was don, they were bedded at Sir John Stonehouse's lodging in Bow-streete, Covent Garden. 26. To the R. Society, where I met an Irish Bishop with his Lady, who was daughter to my worthy and pious friend Dr. Jeremy Taylor, late Bp. of Downe and Connor ; they came to see the Repository. She seemed to be a knowing woman, beyond the ordinary talent of her sex. 3 Mar. I din'd at my Lord Mayor's in order to the meeting my Lady Beckford, whose daughter (a rich heiresse) I had recommended to my brother of Wotton for his only sonn, she being the daughter of the lady by Mr. Ersfield [Eversfield], a Sussex gentleman. 16, To London, to receive £.;^poo of my daughter-in-law's portion, which was paid in gold. 26. The Dean of Sarum preach'd on Jerem. 45, 5, an hour and halfe from his common-place book of kings and greate men retiring to private situations. Scarce any thing of Scripture in it. 18 April. On the earnest invitation of the Earle of Essex I went with him to his house at Cashioberie in Hartford-shire. It was 01/ Sunday, but going early from his house in the square of St. James, we ariv'd by ten o'clock ; this he thought too late to go to church, and we had prayers in his chapell. The house is new, a plaine fabric, built by my friend Mr. Hugh May. There are divers faire and good roomes, and excellent carving by Gibbons, especialy the chimney-piece of the Library. There is in the porch or entrance a painting by Verrio, of Apollo and the Liberal Arts. One roome parquetted with yew, which I lik'd well. Some of the chimney mantles are of Irish marble, brought by my Lord from Ireland when he was Lord Lieutenant, and not much inferior to Italian. The tympanum or gabal at the front is a bass- relievo of Diana hunting, cut in Portland stone, handsomely enough. I did not approve of the middle Jores being round, but when the Hall is finish'd as design'd, it being an oval with a cupola, together with the other wing, it will be a very noble palace. The library is large, and •Rry nobly furnish'd, and all the books are richly bound and gilded ; but'there are no MSS. except the Parliament Rolls and Journals, the transcribing and binding of which cost him, as he assur'd me, ^.500. No man has ben more industrious than this noble Lord m plantmg about his seate, adorn'd with walkes, ponds, and other rural elegancies ; but the soile is stonie, churlish, and uneven, nor is the water neere enough to the house, tho' a very swift and cleare stream runs witluu a 41 6 CASHIOBERIE HOUSE. SALE OF PARSON'S GREEN. flight shot from it in the vally, which may fitly be call'd Coldbrook, it being indeede excessive cold, yet producing faire troutes. 'Tis pitty the house was not situated to more advantage, but it seemes it was built just where the old one was, which I believe he onely meant to repaire ; this leads men into irremediable errors, and it saves but a very little. The land about it is exceedingly addicted to wood, but the coldnesse of the place hinders the growth. Black cherry-trees prosper even to considerable timber, some being 80 foote long ; they make also very handsome avenues. There is a pretty oval at the end of a faire walke, set about with treble rows of Spanish chesnut trees. The gardens are very rare, and cannot be otherwise, having so skill- ful an artist to govern them as Mr. Cooke, who is, as to the mechanic part, not ignorant in Mathematics, and pretends to Astrologie. There is an excellent collection of the choicest fruit. As for my Lord, he is a sober, wise, judicious, and pondering person, not illiterate beyond the rate of most noblemen in this age, very well vers'd in English historic and affaires, industrious, frugal, methodical, and every way accomplish'd. His Lady (being sister of the late Earle of Northumberland) is a wise, yet somewhat melancholy woman, set- ting her heart too much on the little lady her daughter, of whom she is over fond. They have an hopeful son at the Academic. My Lord was not long since come from his Lord Lieutenancy of Ireland, where he shew'd his abilities in administration and govern- ment, as well as prudence in considerably augmenting his estate with- out reproach. He had ben Ambassador Extraordinary in Denmark, and, in a word, such a person as became the sonn of that worthy Hero his father to be, the late Lord Capel, who lost his life for K. Charles I. We spent our time in the mornings in walking or riding, and con- triving [alterations], and the afternoones in the Library, so as I pass'd my time for 3 01 4 daies with much satisfaction. He was pleas'd in conversation to impart to me divers particulars of state, relating to the present times. He being no great friend to the D was now laid aside, his integritie and abilities being not so suiteable in this con- juncture. 21. I returned to London. 30 April. To a meeting of the executors of the late Viscountessc Mordaunt's estate, to consider of the sale of Parson's Greene, being in treaty with Mr. Loftus. and to r.ettle the halfe yeare's account. r May. Was a meeting of the feoffees of the poore of our parish. This yeiire I would stand one of the collectors of their rents, to give example to others. My sonn was added to the feoffees. This afternoone came to visit me Sir Edw. Deering of Surrendon in Kent, one of the Lords of the Treasury, with his daughter, married to my worthy friend Sir Robert Southwell, Clerk of the Council, now EY.traordinary En\ oye to the Duke of Brandenburgh, and other Prin- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 417 ces in Gennanie, as before he had ben in Portugal, being a sober wise and virtuous gentleman. ' ' 13. I was at the funeral of old Mr. Shish, master shipwright of his Majesty's Yard here, an honest and remarkable man, and his death a public losse, for his excellent successe in building ships (tho' altogether lUiterate), and for breeding up so many of his children to be able artists. I held up the pall with three knights, who did him that honour, and he was worthy of it. It was the costome of this good man to rise in the night, and to pray kneeling in his owne coffin, which he had lying by him many yeares. He was borne in that famous yeare of the Gun- powder plot 1605. 14 June. Came to dine with us the Countesse of Clarendon, Dr. Lloyd, Deane of Bangor, (since Bp. of St. Asaph), Dr. Burnett, author of the History of the Reformation, and my old friend Mr. Henshaw. After dinner we all went to seethe Observatory and Mr. Flamsted, who shew'd us divers rare instruments, especialy the greate quadrant. 24 July. Went with my wife and daughter to Windsor, to see that stately Court, now neere finish'd. There was erected in the Court the King on horseback, lately cast in copper, and set on a rich pedestal ot white marble, the worke of Mr. Gibbons, at the expence of Toby Rus- tate, a page ^ of the back staires, who by his wonderful frugality had ariv'd to a greate estate in mony, and did many works of charity, as well as this of gratitude to his Master, which cost him ^.1000. He is a very simple, ignorant, but honest and loyal creature. We all din'd at the Countesse of Sunderland's afterwards to see Signor Verrio's garden, thence to Eton College to salute the Provost, and heard a Latine speech of one of the Alumni (it being at the elec- tion), and were invited to supper, but took our leave, and got to Lon- don that night in good time. 26. My most noble and illustrious friend, the Earl of Ossorie, es- pying me this morning after sermon in the privy gallery, calling to me, told me he was now going his journey (meaning to Tangier, whither he was designed Governor and General of the Forces, to regaine the losses we had lately sustain'd from the Moors, when Inchqueene was Gover- nor). I ask'd if he would not call at my house (as he always did when- ever he went out of England on any exploit) ; he said he must embark at Portsmouth, * wherefore let you and I dine together to-day, I am quite alone, and have something to impart to you ; I am not well, shall be private, and desire your company.' Being retired to his lodgmgs and set down on a couch, he sent to his secretary for the copy of a let- ter which he had written to Lord Sunderland (Secretary of State), wishing me to reade it ; it was to take notice how ill he rese.ited it « Mr. Tobias Rustate. He was a great benefactor to Jesus College, Cambridge in partic«. lar, by an endowment of scholarships there for the benefit of young students, orphan son. Clergymen. 4r8 TANGIER ; THE DUKE OF ORMOND ; DEATH OF LORD OSSORIEL that he should tell the King before Lord Ossorie's face, that Tangier was not to be kept, but would certainly be lost, and yet added that 'twas tit for Lord Ossorie should be sent, that they might give some account of it to the world, meaning (as suppos'd) the next Parliament, when all such miscarriages would probably be examined ; this Lord Ossorie took very ill of Lord Sunderland, and not kindly of the King, who resolving to send him with an incompetent force, seem'd, as his Lordship tooke it, to be willing to cast him away, not only on an hazardous adventure, but in most men's opinion an impossibility, seeing there was not to be above 3 or 400 horse and 4000 foote for the garrison and all, both to defend the towne, forme a camp, repulse the enemy, and fortifie what ground they should get in. This touch'd my Lord deeply, that he should be so little consider'd as to put him on abusinesse in which he should pro- bably not only loose his reputation, but be charg'd with all the mis- carriages and ill successe ; whereas at first they promis'd 6000 foote and 600 horse effective. My Lord being an exceeding brave and valiant person, and who had so approv'd himself in divers signal battailes, both at sea and land ; so belov'd, and so esteem'd by the people, as one they depended upon all occasions worthy of such a captain ; he looked on this as too greate an indifference in his Majesty after all his services, and the merits of his father the Duke of Ormond, and a designe of some who envied his virtue. It certainly tooke so deepe roote in his mind, that he who was the most void of feare in the world (and assur'd me he would go to Tangier with 10 men if his Majesty commanded him) could not beare up against this unkindness. Having disburdened himselfe of this to me after dinner, he went with his Majesty to the Sheriffs at a greate supper in Fishmongers Hall, but finding himselfe ill, tooke his leave immediately of his Majesty, and came back to his lodging. Not resting well this night, he was per- suaded to remove to Arlington House for better accommodation. His disorder turn'd to a malignant fever, which increasing after all that six of the most able physicians could do, he became delirious, with intervals of sense, during which Dr. Lloyd (after Bp. of St. Asaph) administered the holy sacrament, of which I also participated. He died the Friday following, the 30 July, to the universal griefe of all that knew or heard of his greate worth, nor had any a greater losse than myselfe. Oft would he say I was the oldest acquaintance he had in England (when his Father was in Ireland), it being now of above 3oyeares, contracted abroad, when he rid in the Academie in Paris, and when we were sel- dome asunder. His Majesty never lost a worthier subject, nor father a better or more dutiful son ; a loving, generous, good-natur'd, and per- fectly obliging friend ; one who had done innumerable kindnesses to severall before they knew it ; nor did he ever advance any that were not worthy ; no one more brave, more modest : none more humble, sober, and every way virtuous. Unhappy England in this illustrious THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^ig person's loss ! Universal was the mourning for him and the eulogies on him ; I staied night and day by his bed-side to his last gasp, to dose his deare eyes ! O sad father, mother, wife, and children ! What shall I add ! he deserv'd all that a sincere friend, a brave souldier, a virtuous courtier, a loyal subject, an honest man, a bountifull master, and good Christian could deserve of his Prince and Country. One thing more let me note, that he often express'd to me the abhorrence he had of that base and unworthy action which he was put upon, of engaging the Smyrna fleete in time of peace, in which tho' he behav'd himselfe hke a greate captaine, yet he told me it was the onely blot in his life, and troubled him exceedingly. Tho' he was commanded, and never exa- min'd further when he was so, yet he always spake of it with regret and detestation. The Countesse was at the seate of her daughter, the Countesse ol Derby, almost 200 miles off. 30 August. I went to visite a French gentleman, one Monsieur Chai- dine, who having ben thrice in the East Indies, Persia, and other remote countries, came hither in our returne ships from those parts, and it being reported that he was a very curious and knowing man, I was desir'd by the R. Society to salute him in their name, and to invite him to honour them with his company. Sir Jo. Hoskins and Sir Christopher Wren accompanied me. We found him at his lodgings in his Eastern habit, a very handsome person, extremely affable, a modest, well-bred man, not inclin'd to talke wonders. He spake Latine, and understood Greeke, Arabic, and Persian, from 1 1 yeares travels in those parts, whither he went in search of Jewells, and was become very rich. He seem'd about 36 years of age. After the usual civilities we ask'd some account of the extraordinary things he must have scene in travelling overland to those places where few, if any, Northern Europeans us'd to go, as the Black and Caspian Sea, Mingrelia, Bagdat, Nineveh, Persepolis, &c. He told us that the things most worthy of our sight would be the draughts he had caus'd to be made of some noble ruines, &c. for that^ besides his own little talent that way, he had carried two good painters with him, to draw landskips, measure and designe the remaines of the palace which Alexander burnt in his frolic at Persepohs, with divers temples, columns, relievos, and statues, yet extant, which he affirm'd to be sculpture far exceeding any thing he had observ'd either at Rome, in Greece, or in any other part of the world where magnificence was in estimation. He said there was an inscription in letters not intelhgible, though intire. He was sorry he could not gratify the curiosity of the Society at present, his things not being yet out of the ship, but would wait on them with them on his returne from Pans, whither he was going the next day, but with intention to returne suddenly, and stay longer here, the persecution in France not suffering Protestants, and he was one, to be quiet. He told us that Nineveh was a vast citty, now all buried in her ruines, the inhabitants building on the subterranean 4.20 MONSIEUR CHARDINE. THE ROYAL LIBRARY AT WHITEHALL. vaults, which were, as appear'd the first stories of the old Cittie ; that there were frequently found huge vases of fine earth, columns, and othei antiquities ; that the straw which the Egyptians requir'd of the Israel ites, was not to burne, or cover the rowes of bricks as we use, but being chopp'd small to mingle with the clay, which being dried in the sun (for they bake not in the furnaces) would else cleave asunder ; that in Persia are yet a race of IgnicuH who worship the sun and the fire as Gods ; that the women of Georgia and Mingreha were universaly, and without any compare, the most beautifull creatures for shape, features, and figure, in the world, and therefore the Grand Seignior and Bashaws had had from thence most of their wives and concubines ; that there had, within these hundred yeares ben Amazons amongst them, that is to say, a sort or race of valiant women, given to warr ; that Persia was extremely fertile ; he spoke also of Japan and China, and of the many greate errors of our late geographers, as we suggested matter for discourse. We then took our leaves, failing of seeing his papers, but it was told us by others that indeede he durst not open or shew them till he had first shewed them to the French King, but of this he himselfe said nothing. 2 Sept. I had an opportunity, his Majesty being still at Windsor, of seeing his private library at White-hall, at my full ease. I went with expectation of finding some curiosities, but though there were about I GOO volumes, there were few of importance which I had not perus'd before. They consisted chiefly of such books as had from time to time ben dedicated or presented to him ; a few Histories, some Travels and French bookes, aboundance of mapps and sea charts, entertainments and pomps, buildings and pieces relating to the navy, some mathema- tical instruments ; but what was most rare were 3 or 4 Romish brevia- ries, with a great deal of miniature and monkish painting and gilding, one of which is most exquisitely don, both as to the figures, grotesques, and compartments, to the utmost of that curious art. There is another in which I find written by the hand of K. Hen. VII. his giving it to his deare daughter Margaret, afterwards Queene of Scots, in which he desires her to pray for his soule, subscribing his name at length. There is also the processe of the philosophers great elixer, represented in divers pieces of excellent m^iniature, but the discourse is in High Dutch, a MS. There is another MS. in 4to. of above 300 yeares old in French, being an institution of physic, and in the botanical part the plants are curiously painted in miniature : also a folio MS. of good thicknesse, being the severall exercises, as Theames, Orations, Translations, &c. of K. Edward VI. all written and subscrib'd by his owne hand, and with his name very legible, and divers of the Greeke interleav'd and cor- rected after the manner of schole boys exercises, and that exceedingly ivell and proper, with some epistles to his preceptor, which shew that young Prince to have ben extraordinarily advanc'd in learning, and as Cardan, who had ben in England affirm'd, stupendiously knpwing for THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 421 his age. There is likewise his Journal no lesse testifying his early ripeness and care about the affaires of state. There are besides many pompous volumes, some emboss'd with gold, and intaglias on achats, medailes, &c. I spent 3 or 4 intire daies, lock'd up and alone, among these bookes and curiosities. In the rest of the private lodgings contiguous to this, are divers of the best pictures of the greate masters, Raphael, Titian, &c. and, in my esteeme, above all, the Noli me taitgere of our blessed Saviour to Mary Magdalen after his Resurrection^ of Hans Holbein, then which I never saw so much reverence and kind of heavenly astonishment express'd in a picture. There are also divers curious clocks, watches, and pendules of exqui- site work, and other curiosities. An ancient woman, who made these lodgings cleane, and had all the keys, let me in at pleasure for a small reward, by meanes of a friend. 6 Sept. 1 din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, now one of the Lords Com- missioners of the Treasury. This gentleman came first a poore boy from the quire of Salisbury, then was taken notice of by Bp. Duppa, and afterwards waited on my Lord Percy (brother to Algernon E. of Northumberland), who procured for him an inferior place amongst the Clerks of the Kitchen and Greene Cloth side, where he was found so humble, diligent, industrious, and prudent in his behaviour, that his Majesty being in exile, and Mr, Fox waiting, both the King and Lords about him frequently employ'd him about their a-ffaires ; trusted him both with receiving and paying the little mony they had. Returning with his Majesty to England, after greate wants and greate sufferings, his Majesty found him so honest and industrious, and withall so capable and ready, that being advanc'd from Clerk of the Kitchen to that of the Greene Cloth, he procured to be Paymaster to the whole Army, and by his dexterity and punctual deahng he obtain'd such credit among the banquers, that he was in a short time able to borrow vast sums of them upon any exigence. The continual turning thus of mony, and the souldiers moderate allowance to him for his keeping touch with /them, did so inrich him, that he is believ'd to be worth at least 200,000/. honestly gotten and unenvied, which is next to a miracle. With all this he continues as humble and ready to do a courtesie as ever he was. He is generous, and lives very honorably, of a sweete nature, well SDoken, well bred, and is so highly in his Majesty's esteeme, and so usemil, that being long smce made a knight, he is also advanc'd to be one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasurie, and has the rever- tion of the Cofferer's place after Harry Brouncker. He has married his eldest daughter to my Lord Cornwallis, and gave her 12,000 pounds, and restor'd that entangl'd family besides. He match'd his eldest son to Mrs. Trollop, who brings with her (besides a greate sum) necre, it 1 A note is added, that Dr. Burnet has transcribed many remarks out of this in his History of the Reformjition. 422 SIR STEPHEN FOX. THE QUEEN OF SWEDEN. MY BIRTHDAY, not altogether 2000/. per ann. Sir Stephen's Lady (an excellent woman) is sister to Mr. Whittle, one of the King's chirurgeons. In a word, never was man more fortunate than Sir Stephen ; he is an hand- som person, vertuous, and very religious. 23 Sept. Came to my house some German strangers and Signor Pietro a famous musitian, who had ben long in Sweden in Queene Christina's Court ; he sung admirably to a guitar^ and had a perfect good tenor and base, and had set to Italian composure many of Abra- ham Cowley's pieces, which shew'd extremely well. He told me that in Sweden the heate in some part of summer was as excessive as the cold in winter ; so cold, he affirm'd, that the streetes of all the townes are desolate, no creatures stirring in them for many moneths, all the inhabitants retiring to their stoves. He spake high things of that ro- mantic Queene's learning and skill in languages, the majestic of her behaviour, her exceeding wit, and that the histories she had read 01 other countries, especially of Italy and Rome, had made her despise her owne. That the real occasion of her resigning her Crowne was the Noblemen's importuning her to marrie, and the promise which the Pope had made her of procuring her to be Queene 01 Naples, which also caus'd her to change her religion ; but she was cheated by his crafty Holiness,^ working on her ambition ; that the reason ot her killing her Secretary at Fountaine Beleau ^ was his revealing that in- trigue with the Pope. But after all this I rather believe it was her mad prodigality and extreme vanity, which had consum'd those vast treasures the greate Adolphus, her father, had brought out of Germany during his [campaigns] there and wonderfull successes ; and that if she had not voluntarily resign'd, as foreseeing the event, the Estates of her Kingdom would have compell'd her to do so. 30 Oct. I went to London to be private, my birthday being the next day, and now I ariv'd at my sixtieth year, on which I began a more solemn survey of my whole life, in order to the making and confirming my peace with God, by an accurate scrutinie of all my actions past, as far as I was able to call them to mind. How difficult and uncertaine, yet how necessary a work ! The Lord be mercifull to me, and accept me ! Who can tell how oft he offendeth Teach me therefore so to number my daies that I may apply my heart to wisdom, and make my calling and election sure. Amen, Lord Jesus. 13. I spent this whole day in exercises. A stranger preach 'd at White-hall on 16 Luke 30, 31.=' I then went to St. Martin's, where the Bp. of St. Asaph preach'd on i Peter 3, 15. ; the holy communion fol- low'd, at which I participated, humbly imploring God's assistance ir the greate worke I was entering into. In the afternoone I heard Dr. Sprat at St Margaret's on 17 Acts 11. \ Pope Ahxander VII. of the f.nnily of Cliighi at Sienna. ' So called and written in that time. was probably to the King's household early in the nionun^« THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 423 I began and spent the whole weeke in examining my hfe, begging pardon for my faults, assistance and blessing for the future, that T might in some sort be prepar'd for the time that now drew neere, and not have the greate work to begin when one can worke no longer. The Lord Jesus help and assist me ! I therefore stirr'd little abroad till the 5 November, when I heard Dr. Tenison, the now Vicar of St. Martin's ; Dr. Lloyd, the former incumbent, being made the Bishop of St. Asaph. 7. I participated of the blessed Communion, finishing and con- firming my resolutions of giving myselfe up more intirely to God, to whom I had now most solemnly devoted the rest of my poore remain- der of life in this world ; the Lord enabling me, who am an unprofit- able servant, a miserable sinner, yet depending on his infinite goodnesse and mercy, accepting my endeavours. 15. Came to dine with us Sir Richard Anderson, his lady, sonn, and wife, sister to my daughter in law. 30 Nov. The anniversary election at the Royall Society, brought me to London, where was chosen President that excellent person and greate philosopher Mr. Robert Boyle, who indeede ought to have ben the very first ; but neither his infirmitie nor his modestie could now any longer excuse him. I desired 1 might for this yeare be left out of the Council, by reason my dwelling was in the country. The Society according to costomc dined together. This signal day begun the trial (at which I was present) of my Lord Viscount Stafford, for conspiring the death of the King ; second sonn to my Lord Thomas Howard Earle of Arundel and Surry, Earle Ma- rishall of England and grandfather to the present Duke of Norfolk, whom I so well knew, and from wiiich excellent person I received so many favours. It was likewise his birth-day. The trial was in West- minster Hall, before the King, Lords, and Commons, just in the same manner as 40 yeares past, the greate and wise Earle of Strafford (there being but one letter differing their names) receiv'd his trial for pre- tended ill government in Ireland, in the very same place, this Lord Stafford's father being then High Steward. The place of sittmg was now exalted some considerable height from the paved floore of the Hall, with a stage of boards. The throne, woolpacks far the Judges, long formes for the Pecres, chaire for the Lord Steward, exactly ranged, as in the House of Lords. The sides on both hands scaffolded to the very roofe for the Members of the House of Commons. At the upper end and on the right side of the King's state, was a box for his Majesty, and on the left others for the greate ladyes, and over heade a gallene for Ambassadors and public Ministers. At the lower end or entrance was a barr, and place for the prisoner, the Lieutenant of the Tower ot London, the axe^bearer and guards, my Lord Stafford s two daughters, the Marchionesse of Winchester being one ; tliere was likewise a box 4,24 TRIAL AND CONDEMNATION OF VISCOUNT STAFFORD. for my Lord to retire into. At the right hand, in another box, some- what higher, stood the Witnesses ; at the left the Managers, in the name of the Commons of England, viz. Serjeant Maynard (the greate lawyer) the same who prosecuted the cause against the Earle of Straf- ford 40 yeares before, being now neere 80 ytares of age) Sir William Jones, late Attorney General, Sir Francis Winnington, a famous pleader, and Mr. Treby now Recorder of London, not appearing in their gownes as lawyers, but in their cloakes and swords as representing the Com- mons of England: to these were joined Mr. Hampden, Mr. Sacheverell, Mr. Poule, Col. Titus, Sir Tho. Lee, all gentlemen of quahty, and noted parliamentary men. The two first dayes, in which were read the commission and impeachment, were but a tedious entrance into matter of fact, at which I was but little present. But on Thursday I was commodiously seated amongst the Commons, when the witnesses were sworn and examined. The principal witnesses were Mr. Oates (who call'd himselfe Dr.) Mr. Dugdale, and Tuberv'ille. Oates swore that he deliver'd a commission to Viscount Staftbrd from the Pope, to be Paymaster Generall to an army intended to be rais'd. Dugdale, that being at Lord Aston's, the prisoner dealt with him plainly to murder his Majestie : and Turberville, that at Paris he had also propos'd the same to him. 3. The depositions of my Lord's witnesses were taken, to invalidate the King's witnesses ; they were very slight persons, but, being 15 or 16, they tooke up all that day, and in truth they rather did my Lord injury than service. 4. Came other witnesses of the Commons to corroborate the Kings, some being Peeres, some Commons, with others of good qualitie, who tooke off all the former day's objections, and set the King's witnesses rt'ctz in Ciiria. 6. Sir Wm. Jones summ'd up the evidence ; to him succeeded all the rest of the Managers, and then Mr. Hen. Poule made a vehement oration. After this my Lord, as on all occasions, and often during the trial, spoke in his owne defence, denying the charge altogether, and that he had never seene Oates or Tuberville at the time and manner riffirm'd: in truth, their testimonie did little weigh with me ; Dugdale's onely seem'd to press hardest, to which my Lord spake a greate while, but confusedly, without any method. One thing my Lord said as to Oates, which I confesse did exceedingly affect me ; that a person who during his depositions should so vauntingly brag that tho' he went over to the Church of Rome, yet he w^as never a Papist, nor of their religion, all the time that he seem'd to apostatize from the Protestant, but only as a spie ; tho' he confess'd he tooke their sacrament, worshipped images, went thro' all their oathes and discipline of their proselytes, svcaring secrecy and to be faithfull, but with intent to come over againe £Jid betray them ; that such an hypocrite, that had so deeply prevari- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 425 cated as even to turne idolater (for so we of the Church c1 England term'd it), attesting God so solemnly that he was intirely theirs and devoted to their interest, and consequently (as he pretended) trusted ; I say that the witnesse of such a proflygate wretch should be admitted against the life of a Peere, this my Lord look'd upon as a monstrous thing, and such as must needs redound to the dishonour of our Reh- gion and Nation. And verily I am of his Lordship's opinion ; such a man's testimonie should not be taken against the life of a dog. But the merit of something material which he discover'd against Coleman, put him in such esteeme with the Parliament, that now, I fancy, he stuck at nothing, and thought every body was to take what he said for Gospel. The consideration of this and some other circumstances began to stagger me ; particularly how 'twas possible that one who went among the Papists on such a designe, and pretended to be in- trusted with so many letters and commissions from the Pope and the party, nay and deliver'd them to so many greate persons, should not reserve one of them to shew, nor so much as one copy of any commis- sion, which he who had such dexterity in opening letters might cer- tainly have done, to the undeniable conviction of those whom he accus'd: but, as I said, he gain'd credit on Coleman ; but as to others whom he so madly flew upon, I am little inclin'd to believe his testi- mony, he being so slight a person, so passionate, ill-bred, and of such impudent behaviour ; nor is it hkely that such piercing politicians as the Jesuits should trust him with so high and dangerous seacrets. 7. On Tuesday I was againe at the trial, when judgment was de- manded ; and after my Lord had spoken what he could in denying the fact, the Managers answering the objections, the Peeres, adjourned to their house, and within two houres returned againe. There was in the meane time this question put to the Judges, ' whether there being but one witnesse to any single crime or act, it could amount to convict a man of treason.' They gave an unanimous opinion that in case of treason they all were overt acts, for tho' no man should be condemn'd by one witnesse for any one act, yet for several acts to the same intent, it was valid, which was my Lord's case. This being past and the Peeres in their seates againe, the Lord Chancellor Finch (this day the Lord High Steward) removing to the woolsack next his Majesty s state, after summoning the Lieutenant of the Tower to bring forth his prisoner, and proclamation made for silence, demanded of every peer (who were in all 86) whether William Lord Viscount Staflbrd were guilty of the treason laid to his charge, or not guilty. Then the Peere spoken to., standing up, and laying his right hand on his breast, said GuUty, or Not Guilty%pon my honour, and then sate down, the Lord Stevvjard noting their suffrages as they answered upon a paper: ^^en all had done, the number of Not guilty being but 31, ^^/i^^^^'V^V^tt^ hi^ after proclamation for silence againe, the Lord Steward directing his 426 EXECUTION OF LORD STAFFORD. COMETS AND METEORS. speech to the prisoner, against whom the axe was turned edgeways, and not before, in aggravation of his crime, he being ennobled by the King's father, and since received many favours from his present Majesty, (after enlarging on his offence) deploring first his own un- happinesse that he who had never condemn'd any man before, should now be necessitated to begin with him ; he then pronounc'd sentence of death by hanging, drawing, and quartering, according to forme, with greate solemnity and dreadfuU gravity, and after a short pause, told the prisoner that he believ'd the Lords would intercede for the omission of some circumstances of his sentence, beheading only ey^epted ; and then breaking his white staff, the Court was dissolved My Loy(J Stafford during all this latter part spake but little, and only gave theii Lordships thanks after the sentence was pronounced ; and indeede behaved himselfe modestly and as became him. It was observ'd that all his owne relations of his name and family condemn'd him, except his nephew the Earle of Arundel, son to the Duke of Norfolk. And it must be acknowledg'd that the whole trial was carried on with exceeding gravity: so stately and august an ap- pearance I had never seene before ; for besides the innumerable specta- tors of gentlemen and forraine ministers, who saw and heard all the proceedings, the prisoner had the consciences of all the Commons of England for his accusers, and all the Peeres to be his Judges and Jury. He had likewise the assistance of what Counsel he would, to direct him in his plea, who stood by him. And yet I can hardly think that a person of his age and experience should engage men whom he never saw before (and one of them that came to visite him as a stranger at Paris) point bla^iq to murder the King : Godonely who searches hearts can discover the truth. Lord Stafford was not a man belov'd, especialy of his own family. 12. This evening looking out of my chamber window towards the west, I saw a meteor of an obscure bright colour, very much in shape like the blade of a sword, the rest of the skie very serene and cleare. What this may portend God onely knows: but such another pheno- menon I remember to have seene in 1640, aboute the Triallof the greate Earle of Strafford, preceeding our bloudy Rebellion. I pray God avert his judgements. We have had of late severall comets, which tho' I believe appeare from naturall causes, and of themselves operate not, yet I cannot despise them. They may be warnings from God, as they commonly are forerunners of his animadversions. After many daies and many nights of snow, cloudy and dark weather, the comet was very much wasted. 17 December. My daughter in law was brought to bed of a sonn christcn'd Richard. 22. A solemn publicq fast that God would prevent all Popish plotts, avert his judgements, and give a blessing to the proceedings of Parlia- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 427 ment which was now assembrd, and which struck at the succession of the Duke of York. 29. The Viscount Stafford was beheaded on Tower-hill. 1681, 10 Feb. I was at the wedding of my nephew John Evelyn ol Wotton, married by the Bp. of Rochester at Westminster in Henry VII. Chapell, to the daughter and heyre of Mr. Eversfield of Sussex, her portion ^8000. The solemnity was kept with a few friends onely at Lady Be^kford's, the lady's mother. 8 Mar. Visited and din'dat the Earle of Essex's, with whom I spent most of the afternoone alone. Thence to my (yet hving) godmother and kinswoman Mrs. Keightley, sister to Sir Tho. Evelyn and niece to my father, being now 86 yeares of age, sprightly, and in perfect health, her eyes serving her as well as ever, and of a comely countenance, that one would not suppose her above 50. 27. The Parliament now conven'd at Oxford. Create expectation of his Royal Highness's case as to the succession, against which the House was set. An extraordinary sharp and cold spring, not yet a leafe on the trees, frost and snow lying: whilst the whole m.;.:. ,vas in the greatest ferment. 1 1 April. I tooke my leave of Dr. Lloyd (now Bishop of St. Asaph) at his house in Leicester Fields, now going to reside in his diocese. 12. I din'd at Mr. Brisbane's, Secretary to the Admiralty, a learned and industrious person, whither came Dr. Burnet to thank me for some papers which I had contributed towards his excellent History of the Reformation. 26. I din'd at Don Pietro Ronquillo's, the Spanish Ambassador, at Wild House (Drury Lane), who us'd me with extraordinary civility. The dinner was plentiful, halfe after the Spanish, halfe after the Enghsh way. After dinner he led me into his bed-chamber, where we fell into a long discourse concerning religion. Tho' he was a learned man in politics, and an advocate, he was very ignorant in religion, and unable to defend any point of controversy ; he was however far from bemg fierce. At parting he earnestly wish'd me to apply humbly to the Blessed Virgin to direct me, assuring me that he had known divers who had ben averse from the Roman Catholic Religion, wonderfully enlighten'd and convinc'd by her intercession. He miportun'd me to come and visite him often. 20 April. But one showre of rain all this month. 5 May. Came to dine with me Sir William Fermor of N orthampton- shire, and Sir Christopher Wren, his Majesty's Architect and Surveyor, now building the Cathedral of St. Paul, and the Columne ^ memorie of the Citty's conflagration, and was in hand with the buildmg 01 50 Parish Churches. A wonderful genius had this i^^^^";^?^^^^ ^J^'^"*^ i6 May. Came my Lady Sunderland to desire that I would propose 428 THE DAUGHTER OF SIR S. FOX. THE EARL OF KILDARE. a match to Sir Stephen Fox for her sonn, Lord Spencer, to maiTy Mrs. Jane, Sir Stephen's daughter. I excus'd myself all I ^vas able, for the truth is, I was afraid he would prove an extravagant man : for though a youth of extraordinary parts, and had an excellent education to render him a worthy man, yet his early inclinations to extravagance made me apprehensive that I should not serve Sir Stephen by proposing it, like a friend ; this being now his only daughter, well bred, and hkely to receive a large share of her father's opulence. Lord Sunderland was much sunke in his estate by gaming and other prodigalities, and was now no longer Secretary of State, having fallen into displeasure of the King for siding with the Commons about the Succession ; but which I am assur'd he did not do out of his owne inclination, or for the preservation of the Protestant religion, but by mistaking the ability of the party to carry it. However, so earnest and importunate was the Countesse, that I did mention it to Sir Stephen, who said that it was too great honour, that his daughter was very young as well as my Lord, and he was resolved never to marry her without the parties mutual hking, with other objections which I neither would nor could con- tradict. V ' " '^ir'd me to expresse to the Countesse the greata sense he had ot tne honour don him, that his daughter and her sonn were too young, that he would do nothing without her liking, which he did not think her capable of expressing judiciously till she was i6 or 17 yeares of age, of which she now wanted 4 yeares, and that I would put it off as civilly as I could. 20 May. Our new curate preach'd, a pretty hopefuU young man, yet somewhat raw, newly come from colledge, full of Latine sentences, which in time will weare oft". He read prayers very well. 25. There came to visite me Sir William Walter and Sir John Elowes ; and the next day the Earle of Kildare, a young gent, related to my wife, and other company. There had scarce fallen any raine since Christmas. 2 June. I went to Hampton Court, when the Surrey gentlemen presented their addresses to his Majesty, whose hand I kiss'd, intro duc'd by the Duke of Albemarle. 12. It still continu'd so great a drought as had never ben known in England, and it was said to be universal. 14 Aug. No sermon this afternoone, which I think did not happen twice in this parish these 30 years ; so gracious has God ben to it, and indeede to the whole nation : God grant that we abuse not this greate priviledge, either by our wantonnesse, schisme, or unfaith- fulnesse, under such meanes as he has not favoured any other nation under heaven besides. 23. I went to Wotton, and on the following day was invited to Mr. Denzil Onslow's at his scate at Purford, where was much company and such an extraordinary feast as I had hardly scene at any country gen- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 429 tleman's table. What made it more remarkable was, that there was not any thing «,ave what his estate about it did afford : as venison, rabbits, hares, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, quails, poultrie, all sortes of fowle in season from his owne decoy neere his house, and all sorts of fresh fish. After dinner we went to see sport at the decoy, where I never saw so many herons. The seate stands on a flat, the ground pasture, rarely water'd, and ex- ceedingly improved since Mr. Onslow bought it of Sir Robert Parkhurst, who spent a faire estate. The house is timber, but commodious, and with one ample dining-roome, the hall adorn'd with paintings of fowle and huntings. &c. the work of Mr. Barlow, who is excellent in this kind from the life '. 30. From Wotton I went to see Mr. Hussey (at Sutton in Shere), who has a very pretty seate well water'd, neere my brother's. He is the neatest husband for curious ordering his domestic and field accom- modations, and what pertains to husbandry, that I have ever seene, as to his granaries, tacklings, tooles, and utensills, ploughs, carts, stables, wood-piles, wood-house, even to hen-roosts and hog-troughs. Methought I saw old Cato or Varro in him ; all substantial, all in exact order. The sole inconvenience he hes under, is the greate quantity of sand which the streame brings along with it, and filis his canals and receptacles for fish too soone. The rest of my time of stay at Wotton was spent in walking about the grounds and goodly woods, where I have in my youth so often entertain'd my solitude : and so on the 2d of Sept. I once more returned to my home. 6 September. Died my pretty grand-child, and was interr'd on the 8th [at Deptford.] . 14. Din'd with Sir Stephen Fox, who propos'd to me the purchasmg of Chelsey College, which his Majesty had some time since given to our Society, and would- now purchase it againe to build an Hospital or Infirmary for Souldiers there, in which he desired my assistance as one of the Council of the R. Society. , 15. I had another opportunity of visiting his Majesty's private Library at White-hall. . , To Sir Sam. Moreland's, to see his house and mechanics . 17. I went with Monsieur Faubert about taking the Countesse of Bristol's house for an academie, he being lately come from Pans for his religion, and resolving to settle here 1 This house has been pulled down many years rLambeth. at what is now Vauxhall. where Sir San. Moreland had ^-^^ UP^^^^^^^^^ vnd built a large' room, which he furnished m a ^-^X^^^^l^'^^^^^^^^ rnden some fountains. He was much m favour wUh he ^-g fo-^^-^e^^^ ^^.^^ to him whilst abroad, and this is probably the p ace which it s said Kin. used to cross the water to go to. Hist- Surrey, HT. 489, 49°, 49i. ^y itbetwee. 3 He had a riding house between Swallow-street and Kmg- treet . the passage y those streets, is still (or lately was) called by his name (181&.J 3 The estate is the property of the K^l of DR. HOOPER. RUSSIAN AMBASSADOR AT COURT. 23. I went to see Sir Tho. Bond's fine house and garden at Peckham, 2 Oct. I went to Camervvell, where that good man Dr. Par (late chaplain to Abp. Usher) preach'd on 16 Acts, 30. II. I went to Fulham to visit the Bishop of London, in whose gar- den I first saw the Sedum arborescens in flower, which was exceedingly beautifull. 5 Nov. Dr. Hooper preach'd on 12 Mark, 16, 17, before the King, of the usurpation of the Church of Rome. This is one of the first rank of pulpit men in the nation. 15. I din'd with the Earle of Essex, who after dinner in his study, where we were alone, related to me how much he had ben scandaliz'd and injur'd in the report of his being privy to the marriage of his Lady's niece, the rich young widow of the late Lord Ogle, sole daughter of the E, of Northumberland ; shewing me a letter of Mr. Thynn's excusing himself for not communicating his marriage to his Lordship. He ac- quainted me also with the whole story of that unfortunate lady being betray'd by her grandmother the Countesse of Northumberland, and Col. Bret, for money ; and that tho', upon the importunity of the Duke of Monmouth, he had deliver'd to the grandmother a particular of the jointure which Mr. Thynn pretended he would settle on the lady, yet he totally discourag'd the proceeding, as by no means a competent match for one that both by birth and fortune might have pretended to the greatest prince in Christendom ; that he also propos'd the Earle of Kingston, or the Lord Cranburn, but was by no means for Mr. Thynn. 19. I din'd with my worthy friend Mr. Erskin, Master of ^he Char- terhouse, uncle to the Dutchesse of Monmouth ; a wise and learned gentleman, fitter to have ben a privy councillor and minister of state than to have been laied aside. 24. I was at the audience of the Russia Ambassador before both their Majesties in the Banquetting-house. The presents were carried before him, held up by his followers in two ranks before the King's State, and consisted of tapissry (one suite of which was doubtless brought from France as being of that fabrick, the Ambassador having pass'd thro' that Kingdom as he came out of Spain), a large Persian carpet, furs of sable and ermine, &c. but nothing was so splendid and exotic as the Ambassador who came soone after the King's Restauration. This pre- sent Ambassador was exceedingly offended that his ccach was not per- mitted to come into the Court, till being told that no King's Ambassador did, he was pacified, yet requiring an attestation of it under the hand of Sir Cha. Cotterell, the Master of the Ceremonies ; being, it seems, afraid he should offend his Master if he omitted the least punctilio. 'Twas reported he condemned his sonn to loose his head for shaving off his bcprd, and putting himselfe in the French mode at Paris, and that he would have executed it had not the French King interceded— but qu : of this. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 43^ 30 Nov. Sir Christopher Wren chosen President [of the Royal Society], Mi'. Aiistine, Secretary, with Dr. ri :% the ingenious author of History of Oxfordshire. There was a most illustrious appearance. 1682. IT Jan. I saw the audience of the Morocco Ambassadorl, his retinue not numerous. He was receiv'd in the Banquetting-house, both their Majesties being present. He came up to the Throne with- out making any sort of reverence, not bowing his head or body. He spake by a renegado Englishman, for whose safe return there was a promise. They were all clad in the Moorish habite, cassocks of colour'd cloth, or silk, with buttons and loopes, over this an alhaga, or white woollen mantle, so large as to wrap both head and body, a shash or small turban, naked legg'd and arm'd, but with leather socks like the Turks, a rich scymeter, and large calico sleeved shirts. The Ambassa- dor had a string of pearls oddly woven in his turban. I fancy the old Roman habite was little different as to the mantle and naked limbs. The Ambassador was an handsome person, well featured, of a wise looke, subtill, and extreamely civile. Their presents were lions and estridges (ostriches), &c. ; their errand about a peace at Tangier. But the concourse and tumult of the people was intolerable, so as the officers could keepe no order, which these strangers were astonish'd at at first, there being nothing so regular, exact, and perform'd with such silence, as is on all these public occasions of their country, and indeede over all the Turkish dominions. 14. Din'd at the Bp. of Rochester's, at the Abby, it being his mar- riage day, after twenty-four yeares. He related to me how he had ben treated by Sir William Temple, foreseeing that he might be a delegate in the concerne of my Lady Ogle, now likely to come in controversy upon her marriage with Mr. Thynn ; also how earnestly the late E. of Danby, Lord Treasurer, sought his friendship, and what plaine and sincere advice he gave him from time to time about his miscarriages and partialities ; particularly his outing Sir John Duncomb from being Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Sir Ste. Fox, above all, from Pay- master of the Armie. The Treasurer's excuse and reason was, that Fox's credit was so over-greate with the bankers and monied men, that he could procure none but by his meanes ; 'for that reason,' rephed the Bishop, ' I would have made him my friend, Sir Stephen being a person both honest and of credit.' He told him likewise of his statehness and difficulty of accesse, and severall other miscarriages, and which mdeede made him hated. 24, To the Royall Society, where at the Council we pass d a new aw for the more accurate consideration of candidates, as whether they would really be useful ; also concerning the honorary members, that none should be admitted but by diploma. 1 Named Hamet. There are different prints of him ; one of which is a la.gc acd fire one by Robert. 432 DUTCHESS OF PORTSMOUTH. ERECTION OF GREENWICH HOSPITAL This evening I was at the entertainement of the Morocco Ambas- sador at tlie Dutchesse of Portsmouth s glorious apartments at White- hall, where was a greate banquet of sweetemeates and musiq, but at which both the Ambassador and his retinue behav'd themselves with extraordinary moderation and modesty, tho' plac'd about a long table a lady betweene two moores, and amongst these were the King's natural children, viz. Lady Lichfield and Sussex, the Dutchess of Portsmouth, Nelly, &;c. concubines, and cattell of that sort, as splendid as Jewells and excesse of bravery could make them. The Moores neither ad- miring nor seeming to regard any thing, furniture or the like, with any earnestnesse, and but decently tasting of the banquet. They dranke a little milk and water, but not a drop of wine ; they also dranke of a sorbet and jacolatt ; did not looke about, or stare on the ladies, or ex- presse the least suprize, but with a courtly negligence in pace, counte- nance, and whole behaviour, answering only to such questions as were ask'd with a greate deale of wit and gallantrie, and so gravely tooke leave with this compliment, ' That God would blesse the Dutchess of Portsmouth and the Prince her sonn, meaning the little Duke of Rich- mond.' The King came in at the latter end, just as the Ambassador was going away. In this manner was this slave (for he was no more at home) entertain'd by most of the nobility in towne, and went often to Hide Park on horseback, where he and his retinue shew'd their ex- traordinary activity in horsemanship, and flinging and catching their launces at full speede ; they rid very short, aud could stand upright at full speede, managing their spears with incredible agihty. He went sometimes to the theatres, where upon any foolish or fantastical action, he could not forbear laughing, but he endeavour'd to hide it with ex- traordinary modesty and gravity. In a word, the Russian Ambassador, still at Court, behav'd himselfe like a clowne, compar'd to this civil heathen. 27. This evening Sir Ste. Fox acquainted me againe with his Majestys resolution of proceeding in the erection of a Royal Hospital for emerited souldiers on that spot of ground which the Royal Society had sold to his Majesty for 1300/. and that he would settle 5000/. per ann. on it, and build to the value of 20,000/. for the reliefe and reception of 4 companies, viz. 400 men to be as in a coUedge or monasterie. I was therefore desir'd by Sir Stephen (who had not onely the whole managing of this, but vvas, as I perceiv'd, himselfe to be a grand benefactor, as well it became him who had gotten so vast an estate by the souldiers) to assist him, and consult what method to cast it in, as to the government. So in his study we arranged the governor, chaplaine, steward, housekeeper, chirurgeon, cook, butler, gardener, porter, and other officers, with theii- several salaries and entertainrients. I would needes have a Libran- \iid mcntion'd several bookes, since some souldiers might possibly be THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. stadious when they were at leisure to recollect. Thus we made the first calculations, and set downe our thoughts to be consider'd and di- gested better, to shew his Majesty and the Archbishop. He also en- gag'd me to consider of what laws and orders were fit for the government, which was to be in every respect as strict as in any reli- gious convent. After supper came in the famous treble Mr. Abel, newly return'd from Italy; I never heard a more excellent voice; one would have sworn it had ben a woman's, it was so high, and so well and skillfully manag'd, being accompanied by Signor Francesco on the harpsichord. 28. Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, shew'd me a large folio containing the whole mechanic part and art of building royal ships and men of warr, made by Sir Anth. Deane, being so accurate a piece from the very keele to the lead block, rigging, gunns, victuallmg, manning, and even to every individual pin and naile, in a method so astonishing and curious, with the draught, both geometrical and in perspective, and severall sections, that I do not think the world can shew the hke. I esteeme this booke as an extraordinary jewell. 7 Feb. My daughter Mary began to learn musick of Signor Bartho- lomeo, and dauncing of Monsieur Isaac, reputed the best masters. Having had several violent fits of an ague, recourse was had to bathing my legs in milk up to the knees, made as hot as I could en- dure it ; and sitting so in it in a deepe churn or vessell cover'd with blankets, and drinking carduus posset, then going to bed and sweating, I not onely miss'd that expected fit, but had no more, only continued weake, that I could not go to church 'till Ash Wednesday, which I had not missed, I think, so long in twenty yeares, so gracious bad God beene to me. After this warning and admonition I now began to looke over and methodize all my writings, accompts, letters, papers ; inventoried the goods, and other articles of the house, and put things into the best order I could, and made my will ; that now growing in yeares, I might have none of these secular things and concerns to distract me when it should please Almightv God to call me from this transitory hfc. W ith this I prepar'd some special meditations and devotions for the tune oi sicknesse. The Lord Jesus grant them to be salutary for my poore soul in that day, that I may obtain mercy and acceptance ! I March. My second grandchild was born, and christen'd the next day by our Viccar at Sayes Court, by the name of John \ I beseeche God to bless him. ^. t. 1 „ 2. Ash Wednesday. I went to church ; our Viccar preached on Proverbs, shewing what care and vigilcnce was required for the keep- ing of the heart upright. The holy Communion followed, on which I gave God thanks for his gracious dealing with me m my late sick- I Who became his successor, and was created a baronet in 1713- 2b 434 MR. PEPYS. EXECUTION OF VRATS. THE ROYAL SOCIETY. nesse, and affording me this blessed opportunity of praising him in the Congregation, and receiving the cup of salvation with new and serious resolutions. Came to see and congratulate my recovery, Sir John Lowther, Mr. Herbert, Mr. Pepys, Sir Anth: Deane, and Mr. Hill. lo. This day was executed Coll. Vrats, and some of his accomplices, for the execrable murder of Mr. Thynn^, set on by the principal Ko- nigsmark ; he went to execution like an undaunted hero, as one that had done a friendly office for that base coward C. Koningsmark, who had hopes to marry his widow the rich Lady Ogle, and was acquitted by a corrupt jury, and so got away. Vrats told a friend of mine who accompanied him to the gallows, and gave him some advice, that he did not value dying of a rush, and hop'd and believ'd God would deale with him like a gentleman. Never man went so unconcern'd for his sad fate. 24. I went to see the corpse of that obstinate creature Coll. Vrats, the King permitting that his body should be transported to his owne country, he being of a good family, and one of the first embalmed by a i^articular art invented by one William Russell, a coffin maker, which preserved the body without disbowelhng, or to appearance using any bituminous matter. The flesh was florid, soft, and full, as if the per- son were onely sleeping. He had now ben dead neere 15 dales, and lay expos'd in a very rich coffin lin'd with lead, too magnificent for so daring and horrid a murderer. At the meeting of R. Society were exhibited some pieces of amber sent by the Duke of Brandenburg, in one of which was a spider, in another a gnat, both very intire. There was a discourse of the tinge- ing of glass, especially with red, and the difficulty of finding any red colour effectual to penetrate glass, among the glass-painters ; that the most diaphonous, as blue, yellow, &c. did not enter into the substance of what was ordinarily painted, more than very shallow, unless in- corporated in the mettal itselfe, other reds and whites not at all beyond the superfices. 5 April. To the R. Society, where at a Council was regulated what collections should be published monthly, as formerly the transactions, which had of late ben discontinu'd, but were now much caird for by the curious abroad and at home. 12. I went this afternoone with severall of the Royal Society to » supper which was all dress'd, both fish and flesh, in Monsieur Papin's Digestors, by which the hardest bones of beefe itselfe, and mutton, were made as soft as cheese, without water or other liquor, and with lesse than 8 ounces of coales, producing an incredible quantity of gravy ; and for close of all a jelly made of the bones of beef, the best for clearness 1 He lies buried in Westminster Abbey ; the manner of his death being represented on his monument. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 435 and good relish, and the most dehcious that I had ever seene or tasted. We eat pike and other fish bones, and all without impediment ; but nothmg exceeded the pigeons, which tasted just as if bak'd in a pie, all these being stew'd in their own juice, without any addition of water save what swam about the Digester, as m babieo j the natural juice of all these provisions acting on the grosser substances, reduced the hard- est bones to tendernesse ; but it is best descanted with more particulars for extracting tinctures, preserving and stewing fruite, and saving fuel, in Dr. Papin's booke, publish'd and dedicated to our Society, of which he is a member. He is since gone to Venice with the late Resident here (and also a Member of our Society), who carried this excellent mechanic, philosopher, and physician, to set up a philosophical meet- ing in that citty. This philosophical supper caus'd much mirth amongst us, and exceedingly pleased all the company. I sent a glass of the jelley to my wife, to the reproch of all that the ladies ever made of the best hartshorn. April. The season was unusually wet, with rain and thunder. 25 May. 1 was desir'd by Sir Ste. Fox and Sir Christopher Wren to accompany them to Lambeth, with the plot and designe of the Col- lege to be built at Chelsey, to have the Abp.'s approbation. It was a quadrangle of 200 foote square after the dimensions of the larger qua- drangle at Christ Church, Oxford, for the accomodation of 440 persons, with governor and officers. This was agreed on. The Duke and Dutchesse of York were just now come to London after his escape and shipwreck as he went by sea for Scotland. 28. At the Rolls Chapell preached the famous Dr. Burnet on 2 Peter i. 10. describing excellently well what was meant by Election , viz. not the eftect of any irreversable decree, but so call'd because they embraced the Gospel readily, by which they became elect or precious to God. It would be very needlesse to make our calling and election sure, were they irreversable and what the rigid Presbyterians pretend. In the afternoone to St. Lawrence's church, a new and cheerful pile. 29. I gave notice to the Bp. of Rochester of what Maimburg had publish'd about the motives of the late Dutchesse of York's perversion, in his Historic of Calvinism ; and did myselfe write to the Bp. of Win. Chester (Dr. Morley) about it, who being concern'd in it, I urged him to set forth his vindication. 31. The Morocco Ambassador being admitted an honorary mem her of the R. Society, and subscribing his name and titles in Arabic, I was deputed by the Ccnmcil to go and compliment him. 19 June. The Bantame or East India Ambassadors (at this time we had in London the Russian, Moroccan, and Indian Ambassadors,) • The name of one was Pungearon NIa Para, of the other Kaia Nebbe, or Keay Nabee, There are different prints of both, representing them exactly as here described. There were others in the embassy, but probably of infeiior degree. 436 EAS'J INDIAN AMBASSADORS. MR. BOHUN, OF LEA. being invitea lo dine at Lord Geo. Berkeley's (now Earl), I went to the entertainment to contemplate the exotic guests. They were both very hard-favour'd and much resembling in countenance some sort of mon- keys. We eate at two tables, the Ambassadors and interpreter by themselves. Their garments were rich Indian silks, flower'd with gold, viz. a close waistcoate to their knees, drawers, naked legs, and on their heads capps made like fruit-baskets. They wore poison'd daggers at their bosoms, the hafts carv'd with some ugly serpents or devils heads, exceeding keene, and of Damasco metal. They wore no sword. The second Ambassador (sent it seemes to succeed in case the first should die by the way in so tedious a journey), having ben at Mecca, wore a Turkish or Arab shash, a little part of the linnen hanging downe behinde his neck, with some other difference of habite, and was halfe a Negro, bare legg'd and naked feete, and deem'd a very holy man. They sate cross-legg'd like Turks, and sometimes in the posture of apes and monkeys ; their nailes and teeth black as jet, and shining, which being the effect, as to their teeth, of perpetually chewing betel to preserve them from the tooth-ache, much raging in their country, is esteem'd beautifull. The first Ambassador was of an olive hue, a flat face, narrow eyes, squat nose, and Moorish lips, no haire appeared ; they wore several rings of silver, gold, and copper on their fingers, which was a token of knighthood or nobility. They were of Java Major, whose Princes have ben turn'd Mahometans not above 50 yeares since, the inhabitants are still pagans and idolators. They seem'd of a dull and heavy constitution, not wondering at any thing they saw, but ex- ceedingly astonished how our Law gave us property in our estates, and so thinking we were all Kings, for they could not be made to compre- hend how subjects could possess anything but at the pleasure of their Prince, they being all slaves ; they were pleas'd with the notion, and admir'd our happinesse. They were very sober, and I believe subtle in their way. Their meate was cook'd, carried up, and they attended by several fat slaves, who had no covering save drawers, which appearVl very uncouth and loathsome. They eate their pilaw and other spoone- meate without spoones, taking up their pottage in the hollow of their fingers, and very dextrously flung it into their mouthes without spilling a drop. 17 July. Came to dine with me the Duke of Grafton and the young Earle of Ossorie, son to my most deare deceased friend. 30. Went to visit our good neighbour Mr. Bohun, (Lea, Kent), whose whole house is a cabinet of all elegancies, especially Indian ; in ^he hall are contrivances of Japan skreens instead of wainscot ; and there is an excellent pendule clock inclos'd in the curious flower-work of Mr. Gibbons in the middle of the vestibule. The landskips of the skreens represent ihe manner of living, and country of the Chinese. But above all, his lady's cabinet is adorn'd on the fret, cieling, and THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 437 chimney-piece, with Mr. Gibbons's best carving. There are also some of Streeter's best paintings, and many rich curiosities of gold and silver as growing in the mines. The gardens are exactly kept, and the whole place very agreeable and well watered. The owners are good neigh- bours, and Mr. Bohun has also built and endow'd an hospital for eight poor people, with a pretty chapell, and every necessarie accommodation. I Aug. To the Bp. of London at Fulham, to review the additions which Mr. Marshall had made to his curious booke of flowers in minia- ture, and collection of insects. 4. With Sir Stephen Fox, to survey the foundations of the Royal Hospital begun at Chelsey. 9. The Council of the R. Society had it recom.mended to them to be trustees and visitors, or supervisors, of the Academy which Monsieur Faubert did hope to procure to be built by subscription of worthy gen- tlemen and noblemen, for the education of youth, and to lessen the vast expence the Nation is at yearly by sending children into France to be taught military exercises. We thought good to give him all the encou- ragement our recommendation could procure. 15. Came to visite me Dr. Rogers, an acquaintance of mine long since at Padoa. He was then Consul of the English Nation, and stu- dent in that Universitie, where he proceeded Dr. in Physic ; presenting me now with the Latine oration he lately made upon the famous Dr. Harvey's anniversarie in the Coll. of Physicians at London. 20. This night I saw another comet, neere Cancer, very bright, but the stream not so long as the former. 29. Supp'd at Lord Clarendon's with Lord Hyde his brother, now the great favorite, who invited himselfe to dine at my house on the Tuesday following. 30 Oct. Being my birth-day, and I now entering my greate cHmac- terical of 63, after serious recollections of the yeares past, giving Al- mighty God thanks for all his mercifuU preservations and forbearance, begging pardon for my sinns and unworthinesse, and his blessing and mercy on me the yeare entering, I went with my Lady Fox to survey her building, and give some directions for the garden at Chiswick; the architect is Mr. May; somewhat heavy and thick, and not so well understood ; the garden much too narrow, the place without water, neere an highway, and neere another greate house of my Lord Burling- ton, little land about it, bO that I wonder at the expence ; but women will have their will. jut? • 25. I was invited to dine with Mons. Lionberg, the Swedish Kesi- dent, who made a magnificent entertainment, it being the birth-day of his King. There dined the Duke of Albemarle, D. of Hamilton, Earle of Bathe, E. of Aylesbury, Lord Arran. Lord Castlehaven, the sonn of him who was executed 50 yeares before, and several greate persons. I was exceeding afraide of drinking (it being a Dutch feast), but the 438 AT COURT. EARL OF ROCHESTER. DEATH OF MY FATHER-IN-LAW. Duke of Albemarle being that night to waite on his Majestie, excesse was prohibited ; and to prevent all, I stole away and left the company as soone as we rose from table. 28. I went to the Council of the Royal Society for the auditing the last yeares accompt, where I was surpriz'd with a fainting fit that for a time tooke away my sight, but God being mercifull to me, I recovered it after a short repose. 30 Nov, I was exceedingly indangerd and importun'd to stand the election [for President of the R. S.] having so many voices, but by favor of my friends, and regard of my remote dwelling, and now frequent infirmities, I desir'd their suffrages might be transferr'd to Sir John Hoskins, one of the Masters of Chancery ; a most learned virtuoso as well as lawyer, who accordingly was elected. 7 Dec. Went to congratulate Lord Hyde (the greate favorite), iicwly made Earle of Rochester,^ and lately marrying his eldest daughter to the Earle of Ossorie. 18. I sold my East India adventure of £.2^0 principal for ^.750 to the Royal Society, after I had been in that company 25 years, being extraordinary advantageous, by the blessing of God. 23 Jan. 1683. Sir Francis North, sonn to the Lord North, and Lord Cheife Justice, being made Lord Keeper on the death of the Earle of Nottingham, the Lord Chancellor, I went to congratulate him. He is a most knowing, learned, and ingenious man, and besides an excellent person, of an ingenious and sweete disposition, very skilfull in music, painting, the new philosophy, and politer studies. 29. Supp'd at Sir Jos. Williamson's, where was a select companie of our Society, Sir William Petty, Dr. Gale (that learned schole-master of St. Paul's), Dr. Whistler, Mr. Hill, &:c. The conversation was phy- losophicall and cheerfull, on divers considerable questions proposed ; as of the hereditary succession of the Roman Emperors ; the Pica mentioned in the Preface to our Common Prayer, which signifies onely the Greeke Kalendarium. These were mixed with lighter subjects. 2 Feb. I made my court at St. James's, when I saw the Sea Charts of Capt. Collins, which that industrious man now brought to shew the Duke, having taken all the coastings from the mouth of the Thames, as far as Wales, and exactly measuring every creeke, island, rock, soundings, harbors, sands, and tides, intending next Spring to proceed till he had finish'd the whole iland, and that measured by chains and other instruments. A most exact and usefull undertaking. He affirm'd, that of all the mapps put out since, there are none extant so true as those of Jo. Norden,v/ho gave us the first in Qu. Elizabeth's time ; all since him are erroneous. 12. This morning I receiv'd the newes of the death of my father- in-law, Sir Richard Browne, Knt. and Bart, who died at my house at ' I>aurtfnce, second son of tJbe CKancellor. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 435 Sayes Court this day at 10 in the morning, after he had labour'd under the gowt and dropsie for neere 6 monetlis, in the 78th yeare of his age. The funerall was solemniz'd on the 19th at Deptford, with as much decency as the dignity of the person, and our relation to him, requir'd. There being invited the Bp. of Rochester, severall noblemen, knights, and all the fraternity of the Trinity Companie, of which he had ben Master, and others of the country. The Vicar preach'd a short but proper discourse on 39 Psalm, 10, on the frailty of our mortal condi- tion, concluding with an ample and well-deserv'd eulogie on the defunct, relating to his honourable birth and ancestors, education, learning in Greeke and Latine, modern languages, travels, publiq employments, signal loyalty, character abroad, and particularly the honor of support- ing the Church of England in its public worship during its persecution by the late Rebells usurpation and regicide, by the suffrages of divers Bishops, Doctors of the Church, and others, who found such an asylum in his house and family at Paris, that in their disputes with the Papists (then triumphing over it as utterly lost) they us'd to argue for its visi- bility and existence from Sir R. Browne's chapell and assembly there. Then he spake of his greate and loyal sufferings during 13 yeares exile with his present Majestie, his returne with him in the signall yeare 1660; his honorable employment at home, his timely recesse to recollect him- selfe, his greate age, infirmities, and death. He gave to the Trinity Corporation that land in Deptford on which are built those alms-houses for 24 widows of emerited seamen. He was borne the famous yeare of the Gunpowder Treason, in 1605, and being the last [male] of his family, left my wife, his onely daughter, heire. His grandfather Sir Richard Browne was the greate instrument under the greate Earl of Leicester (favorite to Queene Eliz.) in his government of the Nether- lands. He was Master of the Household to King James, and Cofferer ; I think was the first- who regulated the compositions thro' England for the King's household provisions, progresses \ &c. which was so high a service, and so gratefull to the whole nation, that he had acknowledg- ments and publiq thanks sent him from all the Counties ; he died by the rupture of a veine in a vehement speech he made about the com- positions in a Parliament of King James. By his mother's side he was k Gunson, Treasurer of the Navy in the reignes of Hen. 8, Qu. Mary, and Qu. Eliz., and as by his large pedigree appeares, related to divers of the English nobility. Thus ended this honorable person, after so many changes and tossings to and fro, in the same house v/here he was borne. ' Lord teach us so to number our days that we may apply our hearts to wisdom !' By a special clause in his will he o- der'd that his body should be 1 Th. different Counties were to find provisions of different sorts, which ^[^^^"^^^jd by officers called purveyors whose extortions often eoccited the attention of Parharoent. for • ^^ticular account of th?ir practices, see Arehae-'-sia, wl. HI p. 349- BURIAL IN CHURCHES. SIR THO. MILLINGTON. buried in the Church-yard under the South East window of the Chancel, adjoining to the burying places of his ancestors, since they came out of Essex to Sayes Court, he being much offended at the novel costome oi burying every one within the body of the Church and Chancel, that being a favour heretofore granted only to martyrs and greate persons ; this excesse of making Churches Charnel-houses being of ill and irre- verend example, and prejudicial to the health of the living, besides the continual disturbance of the pavement and seates, and severall other indecencies. Dr. Hall, the pious Bishop of Norwich, would also be so interr'd as may be read in his Testament. i6 March. I went to see Sir Josiah Child's prodigious cost in plant- ing walnut trees about his seate ^ and making fish-ponds, many miles in circuit, in Epping Forest, in a barren spot, as oftentimes these sud- dainly monied men for the most part seate themselves. He, from a merchant's apprentice, and management of the East India Company's stock, being ariv'd to an estate ('tis said) of ^200,000 ; and lately married his daughter to the eldest sonn of the Duke of Beaufort, late Marques of Worcester, with ;!/^5o,ooo portional present, and various expectations. I din'd at Mr. Houblon's^, a rich and gentile French merchant, who was building a house in the Forest, neare Sir J. Child's, in a place where the late Earle of Norwich dwelt some time, and which came from his lady the widow of Mr. Baker. It will be a pretty villa, about 5 miles from White-chapell. 18 March. I went to hear Dr. Horneck preach at the Savoy Church on 2 Phil. 5. He was a German borne, a most pathetic preacher, a person of a Saint-like life, and hath written an excellent treatise of Consideration \ 20. Din'd at Dr. Whistler's at the Physicians Colledge, with Sir Tho. Millington, both learned men ; Dr. W. the most facetious man in nature, and now Censor of the College. I was here consulted where they should build their library ; 'tis pity this Colledge is built so neere New-gate Prison, and in so obscure an hole, a fault in placeing most of our publiq buildings and Churches in the Citty, thro' the avarice of some few men, and his Majesty not over-ruling it when it was in his power after the dreadfull conflagration. 21. Dr. Tenison preach'd at White-hall on i Cor. 6. 12 ; I esteeme him to be one of the most profitable preachers in the Church of England being also of a most holy conversation, very learned and ingenious. 1 As was afterwards, it Fiilham, Dr. Compton, Bishop of London, who used to say 'The Churchyard for the dead, the Church for the living.' Where that elegant mansion, VVanstead House, now stands. 3 The family were eminent merchants in the time of Queen Elizabeth. ♦ The full title is, 'The great Law of Consideration, or a Discourse wherein the nature, u»« (illness, and ai)solute necessity of Consideration, in order to a truly serious and religious life. »re ljud liocn : it went tht-ough several editions. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 441 The paines he takes and care of his parish will, I feare, weare him out, which would be an inexpressible losse.^ 24. I went to heare Dr. Charleton's lecture on the heart in the Anatomie Theater at the Physicians Colledge. 50. I went to London in order to my passing the following weeke, for the celebration of the Easter now approaching, there being in the Holy Weeke so many eminent preachers officiating at the Court and other places. 6 April. Good Friday. There was in the afternoone, according to costome, a Sermon before the King at White-hall ; Dr. Sprat preached for the Bp. of Rochester. 17. I was at the launching of the last of the 30 ships order'd to be new built by Act of Parliament, named the Neptune, a second rate, one of the goodliest vessells of the whole navy, built by my kind neighbour young Mr. Shish, his Majesty's master shipwright of this dock. I May. I went to Blackheath to see the new faire, being the first, procur'd by the Lord Dartmouth. This was the first day, pretended for the sale of cattle, but I think in truth to enrich the new tavern at the bowling greene, erected by Snape,^ his Majesty's farrier, a man full of projects. There appeared nothing but an innumerable assembly of drinking people from London, pedlars, &:c. and I suppose it too neere London to be of any greate use to the country. March was unusually hot and dry, and all April excessively wet. I planted all the out limites of the garden and long walks with holly.' 9. Din'd at Sir Gabriel Sylvius's, and thence to visite the Duke of Norfolck, to ask whether he would part with any of his Cartoons and other drawings of Raphael and the greate masters ; he told me if he might sell them altogether, he would, but that the late Sir Peter Lely (our famous painter) had gotten some of his best. The person who desired me to treate for them was Vander Douse, grandson to that greate scholar, contemporary and friend of Joseph Scaliger. 16. Came to dinner and visite Sir Richard Anderson of Pendly and his Lady, with whom I went to London. June 8. On my return home from the R. Society, I found Mr. Wil- braham, a young gent, of Cheshire. _ ^ II. The Lord Dartmouth was elected Master of the Tnnity House, sonn to Geo. Legg, late Master of the Ordnance, and one of the groomes of the bedchamber ; a greate favorite of the Duke s, an active and understanding gentleman in sea affairs. : Dr. Thomas Tenlson succeeded Tmotson in the -^-P^^'^if been before Vicar of St. Martin's in the Fields and Bishop of Lincoln. He '-ved to a very ^Tm^ Granger mentions a print of this person by White, -^ ^ys he was father of Dr. Snape of Eton : one of this family has been serjeant-farner to the Ku^g for 3^ ^ ^o Cza. 8 400 f.et in length, 9 feet high, 5 in diameter, m my now rumed garden, thanks to m of Masgovy. Sylva, Book II. chap, vi f4.2 WINDSOR, ST. GEORGE'S HALL. MR. DRYDEN THE POET. 13. To our Society, where we received the Count de Zinzendorp, Ambassador from the Duke of Saxonie, a very fine young man : we shew'd him divers experiments on the magnet, on which subject the Society were upon. 16. I went to Windsor, dining by the way a" Chesewick (Chiswick), at Sir Stephen Fox's, where I found Sir Robert Howard (that universal pretender), and Signor Verrio, who brought his draught and designs for the painting of the staire-case of Sir Stephen's new house. That which was new at Windsor since I was last there, and was sur- prising to me, was that incomparable fresca painting in St. George's Hall, representing the legend of St. George, and triumph of the Black Prince, and his reception by Edw. III. ; the volto, or roofe, not totally finish'd ; then the Resurrection in the Chapell, where the figure of the Ascension is in my opinion comparable to any paintings of the most famous Roman masters ; the Last Supper also over the altar. I liked the contrivance of the unseene organ behind the altar, nor less the stupendous and beyond all description the incomparable carving of our Gibbons, who is, without controversie, the greatest master both for invention and rarenesse of worke, that the world ever had in any age ; nor doubt 1 at all that he will prove as greate a master in the statuary art. Verrio's invention is admirable, his ord'nance full and flowing, antiq and heroical ; his figures move ; and if the walls hold (which is the onely doubt by reason of the salts which in time and in this moist cli- mate prejudice) the work will preserve his name to ages. There was now the terrace brought almost round the old Castle ; the grass made cleane, even, and curiously turfd ; the avenues to the new park, and other walkes, planted with elmes and limes, and a pretty canal, and receptacle for fowle ; nor lesse observable and famous is the throwing so huge a quantity of excellent water to the enormous height of the Castle, for the use of the whole house, by an extraordinary in- vention of Sir Samuel Morland. 17 June. I din'd at the Earle of Sunderland's with the Earles of Bath, Castlehaven, Lords Viscounts Falconberg, Faulkland, Bp. of London, the Grand Master of Malta, brother to the Duke de Vendosme, (a young wild spark,) and Mr. Dryden the Poet. After evening prayer I walk'd in the park with my Lord Clarendon, where we fell into dis- course of the Bp. of Salisbury (Dr. Seth Ward), his subtilty, &c. Dr. Durell, late Deane of Windsor, being dead. Dr. Turner, one of the Duke's Chaplains, was made Deane. I visited my Lady Arhngton, Groome of the Stole to her Majesty, who being hardly set down to supper, word was brought her that the Queene was going into the park to walke, it being now neere eleven at night ; the alarm caus'd the Countesse to rise in all haste, and leave her supper to us. By this one may take an estimate of the extream slavery THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 443 and subjection that courtiers live in, who have not time to eate and drinke at their pleasure. It put me in mind of Horace's Mouse, and to blesse God for my owne private condition. Here was Monsieur de 1' Angle, the famouD minister of Charenton, lately fled from the persecution in France, concerning the deplorable condition of the Protestants there. 1 8. I was present, and saw and heard the humble submission and petition of the Lord Maior, Sheriffs, and Aldermen, on behalf of the Citty of London, on the quo warranto against their charter, which they dehver'd to his Majesty in the Presence-chamber. It was deliver'd kneeling, and then the King and Council went into the Council-cham- ber, the Maior and his brethren attending still in the Presence-cham- ber. After a short space they were called in, and my Lord Keepei made a speech to them, exaggerating the disorderly and riotous be- haviour in the late election, and polling for Papillon and Du Bois after the Common-hall had ben formally dissolv'd ; with other misdemeanors, libells on the Government, &c. by which they had incurr d his Majestys high displeasure ; and that but for this submission, and under such articles as the King should require their obedience to, he would cer- tainly enter judgment against them, which hitherto he had suspended. The things requir'd were as follows : that they should neither elect Maior, Sheriff, Alderman, Recorder, Common Serjeant, Towne Cleark, Coroner, or Steward of Southwark, without his Majestys approbation ; and that if they presented any his Majesty did not like, they should proceed in wonted manner to a second choice; if that was disapprov'd, his Majesty to nominate them ; and if within 5 daies they thought good to assent to this, all former miscarriages should be forgotten. And so they tamely parted with their so ancient privileges after they had dined and ben treated by the King. This was a signal and most re- markable period. What the consequences will prove, time will shew. Divers of the old and most learned lawyers and judges were of opinion that they could not forfeit their charter, but might be personally punish d for their misdemeanors ; but the plurality of the younger judges and rising men judg'd it otherwise. . The Popish Plot also, which had hitherto made such a noise, began now sensibly to dwindle, thro' the folly, knavery, impudence and giddiness of Gates, so as the Papists began to hold up their heads higher than ever, and those who had fled, flock'd to London from abroad. Such suddaine changes and eager doings ' lere had ben, with- out any thing steady or prudent for these last seav-en yeares 19 June. I return'd to towne in a coach with Larle of » don! -when passing by the glorious palace his ^^^her built b^ yeares before, which they were nov demolishing, ^emg sold^^^^^ taine undertakers, I turn'd my head the ^^^''^'Yll^^^^^^^ gone past it, least I might minister occasion of speakmg ol it, which 444 THE PLOT, EARL RUSSELL, ALGERNON SYDNEY, HOWARD OF ESCRICK. must needs have griev'd him that in so short a time their pomp was so sadly fallen. 28. After the Popish Plot there was now a new, and (as they call'd it) a Protestant Plot discover'd, that certaine Lords and others should designe the assassination of the King and the Duke as they were to come from New-market, with a general rising of the Nation, and espe- cialy of the Citty of London, disaffected to the present Government : upon which were committed to the Tower the Lord Russell, eldest son of the Earle of Bedford, the Earle of Essex, Mr. Algernon Sydney son to the old Earle of Leicester, Mr. Trenchard, Hampden, Lord Howard of Escrick, and others. A proclamation was issued against my Lord Grey, the Duke of Monmouth, Sir Tho. Armstrong, and one Ferguson, who had escaped beyond sea ; of these some were said to be for killing the King, others for onely seizing on him and persuading him to new counsels, on the pretence of the danger of Popery should the Duke live to succeed, who was now again admitted to the councils and cabi- net seacrets. The Lords Essex and Russell were much deplor'd, few believing they had any evil intention against the King or the Church ; some thought they were cunningly drawn in by their enemies for not approving some late councils and management relating to France, to Popery, to the persecution of the Dissenters, &c. They were disco- vered by the Lord Howard of Escrick and some false brethren of the club, and the designe happily broken ; had it taken effect, it would, to all appearance, have exposed the Government to unknowne and dan- gerous events, which God avert ! 28. Was borne my grand-daughter at Sayes Court, and christned by the name of Martha Maria, our Viccar officiating. I pray God blesse her, and may she choose the better part. 13 July. As I was visiting Sir Tho. Yarbrow and his Lady in Covent Garden, the astonishing newes was brought to us of the Earle of Essex having cut his throat, having ben but three days a prisoner in the Tower, and this happening on the very day and instant that Lord Russell was on his trial, and had sentence of death. This accident exceedingly amaz'd me, my Lord Essex being so well knowne by me to be a person of such sober and religious deportment, so well at his ease, and so much oblig'd to the King. It is certaine the King and Duke were at the Tower, and pass'd by his window about the same time this morning, when my Lord asking for a rasor shut himselfe into a closet and perpetrated t. j horrid act. Yet it was wondred by some how it was possible he should do it in the manner he was found, for the wound was so deepe and wide, that being cut thro' the gullet, wind-pipe, and both the jugulars, it reach'd to the very vertebrje of the neck, so that the head held to it by a very little skin as it were ; the gapping too of the rasor, and cutting his owne fingers, was a little strange ; but more, that having pass'd the jugulars he should have strength to proceed so THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 443 far, lhat an executioner could hardly have don more with an axe There were odd reflections upon it.^ This fatal newes coming to Hicks's Hall upon the article of my Lord Russell's trial, was said to have had no little influence on the Jury and all the Bench to his prejudice. Others said that he had himselfe on some occasions hinted, that in case he should be in danger of having his hfe taken from him by any pubhq misfortune, those who thirsted for his estate should misse of their aim ; and that he should speak favourably of that Earle of North umberland,^ and some others who made away with themselves ; but these are discourses so unlike his sober and prudent conversation, that I have no inclination to credit them. What might instigate him to this devilish fact, I am not able to conjecture. My Lord Clarendon, his brother-in-law, who was with him but the day before, assur'd me he was then very cheerfull, and declar'd it to be the effect of his innocence and loyalty ; and most be- lieve that his Majesty had no severe intentions against him, tho' he was altogether inexorable as to Lord Russell, and some of the rest. P'or my part, I believe the crafty and ambitious Earle of Shaftesbury had brought them into some dislike of the present carriage of matters at Court, not with any designe of destroying the Monarchy (which Shaftsbury has in confidence and for unanswerable reasons told me he would support to his last breath, as having scene and felt the miserie of being under mechanic tyranny), but perhaps of setting up some other whom he might governe, and frame to his own Platonic fancie, without much regard to the religion establish'd under the Hierarchic, for which he had no esteeme ; but when he perceiv'd those whom he had engag'd to rise, fail of his expectations, and the day past, reproch- ing his complices that a second day for an exploit of this nature was never successful!, he gave them the slip, and got into Holland, where the fox died, three moneths before these unhappy Lords and others were discover'd or suspected. Every one deplor'd Essex and Russell, especialy the last, as being thought to have ben drawn in on pretence only of endeavouring to rescue the King from his present councellors, and secure Religion from Popery, and the Nation from arbitrary Go- vernment, now so much apprehended ; whilst the rest of those who were fled, especialy Ferguson and his gang, had doubtlesse some bloudy designe, to set up a Commonwealth, and turn all things topsy turvy. Of the same tragical principles is Sidney. I J. I had this day much discourse with Monsieur Pontaq, son to the famous and wise prime President of Bourdeaux. This gentleman was owner of that excellent vignoble of Pontaq and Obrien, from whence 1 Bishop Burnet, after making every enquiry by desire of the Countess, does not believe lhat Essex was murdered. Own Times, vol. I. p. 5'^- . . v„v 1 2 Henry Percy, eighth Earl of Northumberland, shot himself in the Tower, to which he had been committed on a charge of high treason in June 1585. 440 HEINSIUS'S LIBRARY. THE KING MELANCHOLY. THE NATION MADD. come the choicest of our Bourdeaux wines ; and I think I may truly say of him, what was not so truly said of St. Paul, that much learning had made him mad. He had studied well in philosophie, but cheifly the rabbines, and was exceedingly addicted to cabalistical fancies, an eternal hablador [babbler], and halfe distracted by reading aboundance of the extravagant Eastern Jewes. He spake all languages, was very rich, had a handsome person, and was well bred, about 45 yeares of age. 14 July. I visited Mr. Fraser, a learned Scots gentleman, whom I had formerly recommended to Lord Berkeley for the instruction and go- vernment of his sonn, since dead at sea. He had now ben in Holland at the sale of the learned Heinsius's library, and shew'd me some very rare and curious bookes, and some MSS. which he had purchas'd to good value. There were three or four Herbals in miniature, accurately don, divers Roman antiquities, of Verona, and very many books of Aldus's impression. 15. A stranger, an old man, preach'd on 6 Jerem. 8. the not heark- ening to instruction, portentous of desolation to a people ; much aftei Bp. Andrews's method, full of logical divisions, in short and broken periods, and Latine sentences, now quite out of fashion in the pulpit, which is grown into a far more profitable way, of plaine and practical discourses, of which sort this Nation, or any other, never had greater plenty or more profitable (I am confident) ; so much has it to answer for thriving no better on it. The public was now in greate consternation on the late plot and conspiracy ; his Majestie very melancholy, and not stirring without double guards ; all the avenues and private dores about White-hall and the Park shut up, few admitted to walke in it. The Papists in the meane time very jocond, and indeede with reason, seeing their own brought to nothing, and turn'd to ridicule, and now a conspiracy of Pi-otestants as they call'd them. The Turks were likewise in hostility against the German Emperor, almost masters of the Upper Hungary, and drawing towards Vienna. On the other side the French King (who 'tis believed brought in the infidels) disturbing his Spanish and Dutch neighbours, having swal- low'd up almost all Flanders, pursuing his ambition of a fifth universal monarchy ; and all this blood and disorder in Christendom had evi- dently its rise from our defections at home, in a wanton peace, minding nothing but luxurie, ambition, and to procure money for oiir vices. To this add our irreligion and atheism, greate ingratitude, and selfe interest ; the aposta^cy of some, and the suffering the Frer.ch to grow so greate, and the Hollanders so weake. In a word, we were wanton madd, and surfeiting with prosperity ; every moment unsettling the old, foundations, and never constant to any thing. The Lord in his mercy avert the sad omen, and tliat we do not provoke him till he beare it nc longer ! THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 44 7 This summer did we suffer 20 French men of war to passe our Chan, nell towards the Sound, to help the Danes against the Swedes, who had abandon'd the French interest ; we not having ready sufficient to guard our coasts or take cognizance of what they did ; though the nation never had more, or a better navy, yet the sea never had so slender a fleete. 19 July. George Prince of Denmark, who landed this day, came to marry the Lady Anne, daughter to the Duke : so I returned home, having seene the young gallant at dinner at White-hall. 20. Severall of the Conspirators of the lower forme were executed at Tyburn ; and the next day, 21. Lord Russell was beheaded in Lincoln's Inn Fields, the execu- tioner giving him three butcherly strokes. The speech he made, and paper which he gave the Sheriff declaring his innocence, the noblenesse ot the family, the piety and worthynesse of the unhappy gentleman, wrought much pity, and occasion'd various discourses on the plot. 25. I againe saw Prince George of Denmark : he had the Danish countenance, blonde, of few words, spake French but ill, seem'd some- what heavy, but reported to be valiant, and indeede he had bravely rescu'd and brought off his brother the K. of Denmark in a battaile against the Swedes, when both those Kings were engag'd very smartly. 28. He was married to the Lady Anne at White-hall. Her Court and Household to be modell'd as the Duke's, her father, had ben, and they to continue in England. 1 Aug. Came to see me Mr. Flamsted, the famous astronomer, from his Observatorie at Greenewich, to draw the meridian for my pendule, &c. 2. The Countesses of Bristol and Sunderland, aunt and cousin ger- man of the late Lord Russell, came to visite me, and condole his sad fate. The next day came Col. Russell, uncle to the late Lord Russell, and brother to the Earle of Bedford, and with him Mrs. Middleton, that famous and indeede incomparable beauty, daughter to my relation Sir Robert Necdham. 19. I went to Bromely to visite our Bishop, and excellent neighbour, & to congratulate his now being made Archbishop of Yorke. On the 28th he came to take his leave of us, now preparing for his journey and residence in his province. 28. My sweete little grandchild Martha Maria died, and on the 29th was buried in the parish church. 2 September. This morning was read in the Church, after the office was done, the declaration setting forth the late conspiracy against the King's person. 3. I went to see what had ber. done by the Duke of Beaufort on his late purchas'd house at Chclsey, which I once had the selling of for the Countesse of Bristol ; he had made greate alterations, but might have built a better house with the materials and the cost he had been at. 4^8 THEDUTCHESSEOFGRAFTON. DEMOLITION OF CLARENDON HOUSE. Saw the Countesse of Monte Feltre, whose husband I had former!) Isnown ; he was a subject of the Pope's, but becoming a Protestant, he resided in England, and married into the family of the Savilles oi York- shire. The Count, her late husband, was a very learned gent: a greate politician, and a goodly man. She was accompanied by her sister ex- ceedingly skill'd in painting-, nor did they spare for colour on their owne faces. They had a greate deal of wit. 9. It being the day of publiq thanksgiving for his Majesty's late preservation, the former declaration was againe read, and there was an office us'd, compos'd for the occasion. A loyal Sermon was preached on the divine right of Kings, from 144 Psalm 10. ' Thou hast preserved David from the peril of the sword.' 15. Came to visite me the learned anatomist Dr. Tyson, with some other Fellows of our Society. 16. At the elegant villa and garden of Mr. Bohun's at Lee. He shewed me the zinnar tree or platanus, and told me that since they had planted this kind of tree about the Citty of Ispahan in Persia, the plague, which formerly much infested the place, had exceedingly abated of its mortal effects, and render'd it very healthy. 18. I went to London to visite the Dutchesse of Grafton, now greate with child, a most virtuous and beautifull lady. Dining with her at my Lord Chamberlaine's, met my Lord of St. Alban's, now grown so blind that he could not see to take his meate. He has liv'd a most easy life, in plenty even abroad, whilst his Majesty was a sufferer ; he has lost immense sums at play, which yet, at about 80 yeares old, he continues, having one that sits by him to name the spots in the cards. He eate and drank with extraordinary appetite. He is a prudent old courtier, and much enrich'd since his Majesty's returne. After dinner I walked to survey the sad demolition of Clarendon House, that costly and only sumptuous palace of the late Lord Chan- cellor Hyde, where I have often ben so cheerfuU with him, and some- times so sad: happening to make him a visite but the day before he fled from the angry Parliament, accusing him of mal-administration, and being envious at his grandeur, who from a private lawyer came to be father in law to the Duke of York, and as some would suggest, design- ing hi? Majesty's marriage with the Infanta of Portugal, not apt to breed •. to this they imputed much of our unhappiness, and that he being sole minister and favorite at his Majesty's restauration, neglected to gratify the king's suffering party, preferring those who were the cause of our troubles. But perhaps as many of these things were injuriously laid to his charge, so he kept the government far steadier than it has prov'd since. I could name some who I think contributed greately to his ruin, the buffoones and the misses, to whom he was an eye-sore. 'Tis t»ue he was of a jolly temper after the old English fashion ; but France had now ths ascendant, and we were become quite another na- THE DIARY OF JOHN* EVELYN. 449 don. The Chancellor gone, and dying in exile, the Earl his successor sold that which cost ;{;5o,ooo. building, to the young Duke of Albemarle for ^25,000. to pay debts which how contracted remains yet a mystery, his sonn being no way a prodigal. Some imagine the Dutchesse his daughter had ben chargeable to him. However it were, this stately palace is decreed to ruine, to support the prodigious waste the Duke of Albemarle had made of his estates since the old man died. Pie sold it to the highest bidder, and it fell to certaine rich bankers and mechanics, who gave for it and the ground about it ^{^35,000.; they designe a new towne as it were, and a most magnificent piazza (i. e. square.) 'Tis said they have already materials towards it with what they sold of the house alone, more worth than what they paid for it. See the vicissi- tude of earthly things ! I was astonished at this demohtion, nor less at the little army of labourers and artificers levelling the ground, laying foundations, and contriving greate buildings at an expence of ;i{^2oo,ooo. if they perfect their designe.' 19. In my walkes I stepped into a goldbeaters work-house, where he shew'd me the wonderfull ductilitie of that spreading and oylie metall. He said it must be finer than the standard, such as was old angel gold, and that of such he had once scene to the value of ;^ioo. stamp'd with the a<^m4S dei; and coyn'd at the time of the holy war, which had ben found in a ruin'd wall somewhere in the north, neere to Scotland, some of which he beat into leaves, and the rest sold to the curiosi in antiquities and medails. 23 Sept. We had now the welcome tidings of the King of Poland raising the siege of Vienna, which had given terror to all Europe, and utmost reproch to the French, who 'tis believ'd brought in the Turks for diversion that the French King might the more easily swallow Flanders, and pursue his unjust conquests on the Empire, whilst we sat unconcern'd and Cinder a deadly charm from somebody. There was this day a collection for rebuilding New-market, consumed by an accidental fire, which removing his Majesty thence sooner than was intended, put by the assassinates, who were disappointed of their rendezvous and expectation by a wonderfull providence. This made the 1 In a letter to Lord Cornbuiy, dated Sayes Court, 23 Jan. 166^-6, Mr. Evelyn having been to see Clarendon House, says, ' I went with prejudice and a critical spuit, incident to those who fancy they know any thing in art ; I acknowledge that I have never seene a nobler pile. My old friend and fellow traveller (inhabitants and co-temporaries at Rome) has per- fectly acquitted himself. It is, without hyperbole, the best contrived, the most usefull, graceful!, and magnificent house in England ; I except not Audley End. which, though larger and full of gaudy barbarous ornaments, dos not gratifie judicious spectators. Here is state and use, solidity and beauty, most symctrically combined together. Nothing abroad pleasei me better, nothing at home approches it. I have no designe to gratifie the architcc be>o id what I am obliged as a professed honorer of virtue wheresoever t.s conspicuous ; but when l had seriously contemplated every roome (for I went into 'em all, from cellar to the pUt^ forme on the roofe), seene how well and judiciously th. walls were erected, the a-'j^.^^^^-'^J tum'd. the timber brac'd. their scantling, and contignat.ons du.pos d I was most highly safiv ^cd. and do acknowledge myselfe to have much improv'd by v;hat J PP^^rv 450 THE CHARTER OF THE CITY OF LONDON REVOKED. JEFFERIES. King more earnest to render Winchester the seate of his autumnal field diversions for the future, designing a palace there, where the antient castle stood ; infinitely indeede preferable to New-market foi prospects, air, pleasure, and provisions. The surveior has already begun the foundation for a palace, estimated to cost ^35,000, and his Majesty is purchasing ground about it to make a parke, &c. 4 Oct. 1 went to London, on receiving a note from the Countesse of Arlington, of some considerable charge or advantage I might ob- taine by applying myselfe to his Majesty on this signal conjuncture ot his Majesty entering up judgment against the City Charter ; the pro- posal made me I wholly dechn'd, not being well satisfied with these violent transactions, and not a little sorry that his iMajesty was so often put upon things of this nature against so greate a Citty, the conse- quences whereofT may be so much to his prejudice ; so I return'd home. At this time the Lord Chief Justice Pemberton was displaced. He was held to be the most learned of the judges, and an honest man. Sir Geo. Jefferies was advanc'd reputed to be most ignorant, but most daring. Sir Geo. Treby, Recorder of London, was also put by, and one Genner, an obscure lawyer, set in his place. Eight of the richest and cheife aldermen were remov'd, and all the rest made onely justices of the peace, and no more v^earing of gownes or chaines of gold. The Lord Mayor and two Sheriffs holding their places by new grants, as Ciistodes, at the King's, pleasure. The pompe and grandure of the most august Citty in the world thus chang'd face in a moment, which gave greate occasion of discourse and thoughts of hearts, what all this would end in. Prudent men were for the old foundations. Following his Majesty this morning thro' the gallerie, I went, witk the few who attended him, into the Uutchesseof Portsmouth's dressing roome within her bed-chamber, where she was in her morning loose garment, her maids combing her, newly out of her bed, his Majesty and the galhmts standing about her ; but that which engag'd my curi- osity was the rich and splendid furniture of this woman's apartment, now twice or thrice pull'd down and rebuilt to satisfie her prodigal and expensive pleasures, whilst her Majcstys dos not exceede some gentle- men's ladies in furniture and accommodation. Here I saw the new fabriq of French tapissry, for designe, tendernesse of worke, and in- comparable imitation of the best paintings, beyond any thing I had ever beheld. Some pieces had Versailles, St. Germain's, and other palaces of the French King, with huntings, figures, and landskips, exotiq fowls, and all to the life rarely don. Then for Japan cabinets, screenes, pendule clocks, greate vases of wrought plate, tables, stands, chimney furniture, sconces, branches, braseras, &c. all of massive silver, and out of number, besides some of her Majesty's best paintings. Surfeiting of this, 1 din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's, and went contented home to my poor, but quiet villa. Wh^t contentment can there be in THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 45 1 the riches and splendor of this world, if purchas'd with vice and dishonour ! 10 Oct. Visited the Dutchesse of Grafton, not yet brought to bed, and dining with my Lord Chamberlaine (her father), went with them to see Montagu House, a palace lately built by Lord Montagu, who had married the most beautifuU Countesse of Northumberland \ It is a stately and ample palace. Signior Verrio's fresca paintings, especialy the funeral pile of Dido, on the stayrecase, the labours of Hercules, fight with the Centaurs, effeminacy with Dejanira, and Apotheosis or reception amongst the gods, on the walls and roofe of the greate roome above, I think exceedes any thing he has yet don, both for designe, colouring, and exuberance of invention, comparable to the greatest of the old masters, or what they so celebrate at Rome. In the rest of the chamber are some excellent paintings of Holbein and other masters. The garden is large, and in good aire, but the fronts of the house not answerable to the inside. The Court at entrie, and wings for offices seeme too neerc the strccte, and that so very narrow and meanely built that the corridore is not in proportion to the rest, to hide the court from being overlook'd by neighbours, all which might have ben prevented had they plac'd the house further into the ground, of which there was enough to spare. But on the whole it is a fine palace, built after the French pavilion way, by Mr. Hooke, the Curator, of the Royal Society. There were with us my Lady Scroope, the greate witt, and Monsieur Chardine, the celebrated traveller. 13. Came to visite me my old and worthy friend Mr. Packer, bringing with him his nephew Berkeley, grandson to the honest judge. A most ingenious, virtuous, and religious gentleman, seated neere Worcester, and very curious in gardening. 17 Oct. I was at the court leet of this manor, my Lord Arlington his Majesty's High Steward.'^ 26. Came to ^ isite and dine with me, Mr. Brisbane, Secretary to the Admiralty, a learned and agreeable man. 30. I went to Kew to visite Sir Hen. Capell, brother to the late Earle of Essex ; but he being gone to Cashiobcrry, after I had scene his garden and the alterations therein, I return'd home. He had re- paired his house, roof'd his hall with a kind of cupola, and in a niche was an artificial fountaine ; but the roome seems to me over melan- choly, yet might be much improv'd by having the walls well pamtea a fresca. The two grecne houses for oranges and mirtles communicatmg with the roomes below, are very well contriv'd. There is a cupola made with pole-work betweene two elmes at the end of a walk, which 1 He was made Earl of Montagu by King William, and Duke by Queen Anre^ H^s w^Jfas Lady EHzabeth. daughter of Thomas Wriothesley Earl of Sou hampton, widow of Jocelxne Percy, the nth and last Earl of Northumberland (of that familyj. 2 The manor of Deptford le Strond, alias ^Vcst Greenwich. 45? MONMOUTH AGAIN AT COURT. MARRIAGE OF MRS. CASTLE. being cover'd by plashing the trees to them, is very pretty: for the rest there are too many fir trees in the garden. 17 Nov. I tooke a house in Villiers Streete, York Buildings, for thr winter, having many important concernes to dispatch, and for the edu- cation of my daughters. 23. The Duke of Monmouth, till now proclaimed traytor on the pretended plot for which Lord Russell was lately beheaded, came this evening to White-hall and render'd himselfe, on which were various discourses. 26. I went to compliment the Dutchesse of Grafton, now laying- in of her first child, a sonn which she called for, that I might see it. She was become more beautiful, if it were possible, than before, and full of vertue and sweetnesse. She discoursed with me of many parti- culars, with greate prudence and gravity beyond her yeares. 29. Mr. Forbes shew'd me the plot of the garden making at Bur- leigh, at my Lord Exeter's, which I look'd on as one of the most noble that I had scene. The whole court and towne in solemn mourning for the death of the K. of Portugal, her Majesties brother. 30. At the anniversary dinner of the Royal Society the King sent us two does. Sir Cyril Wych was elected President. 5 Dec. I was this day invited to a wedding of one Mrs. Castle, to whom I had some obligation, and it was to her fifth husband, a Lieu- tenant Colonel of the Citty. She was the daughter of one Burton, a broom-man, by his wife who sold kitchen stuff in Kent Streete, whom God so bless'd that the father became a very rich, and was a very honest man ; he was Sheriff of Surrey, where I have sat on the bench with him. Another of his daughters was married to Sir John Bowles ; and this daughter was a jolly friendly woman. There was at the wed- ding the Lord Maior, the Sheriff, several Aldermen, and persons of qualitie ; above all, Sir Geo. Jefferies, newly made Lord Chiefe Justice of England, with Mr. Justice Withings, daunc'd with the bride and were exceeding merrie. These greate men spent the rest of the after- noone, till 11 at night, in drinking healths, taking tobacco, and talking much beneath the gravity of Judges that had but a day or two before condemn'd Mr. Algernon Sidney, who was executed the 7th on Tower Hill, on the single witnesse of that monster of a man, Lord Howard of Escrick, and some sheets of paper taken in Mr. Sidney's study, pre- tended to be written by him, but not fully prov'd, nor the time when, but appearing to have ben written before his Majesty's restauration, and then pardoned by the act of oblivion ; so that tho' Mr. Sidney was known to be a person obstinately averse to government by a monarch ' Charles, wno succeeded his father killed in Ireland in 1690. This son was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord Chamberlnin, Privy Cour.cellor. K. G. &c. in the reigns of Anne, George L and George II. There is a fine whole Icnrth m»!u:otinto of him by Faber. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 45^ (the subject of the paper was la answer to one of Sir E. Filmef), yet it was thought he had very hard measure. There is this yet observable, that he had ben an inveterate enemie to the last King, and in actual rebeUion against him ; a man of greate courage, greate sense, greate parts, which he shew'd both at his trial and death ; for when he came on the scaffold, instead of a speech, he told them onely that he had made his peace w'uh God, that he came not thither to talk, but to die ; put a paper into the Sheriffs' hand, and another into a friend's, sayd one prayer as short as a grace, laid down his neck, and bid the execu- tioner do his office. The Duke of Monmouth, now having his pardon, refuses to acknow- ledge there was any treasonable plot ; for which he is banish'd White- hall. There was a greate disappointment to some who had prosecuted Trenchard, Hampden, &c. that for want of a second witnesse were come out of the Tower upon their habeas corpus. The King had now augmented his guards with a new sort of dragoons, who carried also granados, and were habited after the Polish manner, with long picked caps, very fierce and fantastical. 7. I went to the Tower, and visited the Earl of Danby, the late Lord High Treasurer, who had ben imprison'd four years : he receiv'd me with greate kindnesse. I dined with him, and staied till night. We had discourse of many things, his Lady railing sufficiently at the keep- ing her husband so long in prison. Here I saluted the Lord Dun- blaine's wife who before had ben married to Emerton, and about whom there was that scandalous businesse before the delegates. 23. The small pox very prevalent and mortal ; the Thames frozen. 26. I dined at Lord Clarendon's, where I was to meet that ingenious and learned gentleman Sir Geo. Wheeler, who has published the excellent description- of Africa and Greece, and who being a Knight of a very fair estate and young, had now newly entred into holy orders. 27. I went to visite Sir John Chardin, a French gentleman who had travell'd three times by land into Persia, and had made many curious researches in his travells, of which he was now setting forth a relation. It being in England this year one of the severest frosts that had hap- pen'd of many yeares, he told me the cold in Persia was much greater, the ice of an incredible thicknesse ; that they had little use of iron in all that country, it being so moiste (tho' the aire admirably clear and healthy), that oyle would not preserve it from rusting, so that they had neither clocks nor watches ; but some padlocks they had for doores and for boxes. 30. Dr. Sprat, now made Deane of Westminster, preached to the King at White-hall, on 6 Matt. 24. Recollecting the passages of the I Peregnne Viscount Dumblaine, youngest son of the Earl of Danby, so created in hu father's life-time, and who became his successor in title an.l estate. 4>4 SEVERE FROST; BOOTHS AND PASTIMES ON THE THAMES. past yeare, I gave God thanks foi his mercies, praying his blessing foi the future. 1684, I January. The weather continuing intolerably severe, streetes of booths were set upon the Thames ; the aire was so very cold and thick, as of many yeares there had not ben the like. The small pox was very mortal. 2. I din'd at Sir Ste. Fox's : after dinner came a fellow who eatelive charcoal, glowingly ignited, quenching them in his mouth, and then champing and swallowing them down. There was a dog also which seem'd to do many rational actions. 6. The river quite frozen. 9. I went crosse the Thames on the ice, now become so thick as to beare not onely streetes of booth es, in which they roasted meate, and had divers shops of wares, quite acrosse as in a towne, but coaches, carts, and horses, passed over. So I went from Westminster Stayres to Lambeth, and din^d with the Archbishop : where I met my Lord Bruce, Sir Geo. Wheeler, Coll. Cooke, and severall divines. After dinner and discourse with his Grace till evening prayers. Sir Geo. Wheeler and I walked over the ice from Lambeth Stayres to the horse ferry. 10. I visited Sir Robert Reading, whereafter supper we had musiq, but not comparable to that which Mrs. Bridgeman made us on the guittar with such extraordinary skill and dexterity. 16. The Thames was fill'd with people and tents, selling all sorts of wares as in the Citty. 24. The frost continuing more and more severe, the Thames before London was still planted with boothes in formal streetes, all sorts of trades and shops furnish'd and full of commodities, even to a printing presse, where the people and ladyes tooke a fancy to have their names printed, and the day and yeare set down when printed on the Thames ' ; this humour tooke so universally, that 'twas estimated the printer gain'd ;^5. a day, for printing a line onely, at sixpence a name, besides what he got by ballads, &c. Coaches plied from Westminster to the Temple, and from several other staires to and fro, as in the streetes, sleds, sliding with skeetes, a bull-baiting, horse and coach races, puppet plays and interludes, ccokes, tipling, and other lewd places, so that it seem'd to be a bacchanalian triumph, or carnival on the water, whilst it was a severe judgment on the land, the trees not onely splitting as if by lightning-struck, but men and cattle perishing in divers places, and the very seas so lock'd up with ice, that no vcssells could stir out or come in. The fowles, fish, and birds, and all our exotiq plants and greenes universally perishing. Many parkes of deer were destroied, and all 1 By favour of a gentleman possessed of innumerable literary curiosities, I have one of these cards now before me. Within a treble border, ' Monsieur et Madam Justel. Printed on the River of Thames being frozen. In the 36th year of King Charles the II. Feb. S, >68-». V. s. is added with a pen, probably by Mr. Justell. Editor. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 455 sorts of fuell so deare that there were greate contributions to preserve the poore aHve. Nor was this severe weather much lesse intense in most parts of Europe, even as far as Spaine and the most Southern tracts. London, by reason of the excessive coldnesse of the aire hin- dering the ascent of the smoke, was so fill'd with the fuhginous steame of the sea-coale, that hardly could one see crosse the streetes, and this fining the lungs with its grosse panicles, exceedingly obstructed the breast, so as one could scarcely breath. Here was no water to be had from the pipes and engines, nor could the brewers and divers other tradesmen worke, and every moment was full of disastrous accidents. 4 Feb. I went to Sayes Court to see how the frost had dealt with my garden, where I found many of the greenes and rare plantes utterly destroyed. The oranges and mirtills very sick, the rosemary and laurells dead to all appearance, but the cypress likely to indure it. 5. It began to thaw, but froze againe. My coach crossed from Lambeth to the Horseferry at Millbank, Westminster. The booths were almost all taken downe, but there was first a Map or Landskip cut in copper representing all the manner of the camp, and the several actions, sports, and pastimes thereon, in memory of so signal a frost '. 7. I dined with my Lord Keeper [North], and walking alone with him some time in his gallery, we had discourse of musiq. He told me he had ben brought up to it from a child, so as to sing his part at first sight. Then speaking of Painting, of which he was also a greate lover, and other ingenious matters, he desir'd me to come oftener to see him. 8. I went this evening to visite that greate and knowing virtuoso Monsieur Justell. The weather was set in to an absolute thaw and raine, but the Thames still frosen. 10. After eight weekes missing the foraine posts, there came abound- ance of intelligence from abroad. 12. The Earle of Danby, late Lord Treasurer, together with the Roman Catholic Lords impeach'd of High Treason in the Popish Plot, had now their Habeas Corpus, and came out upon baile, after five yeares imprisonment in the Tower. Then were also tried and deeply fin'd Mr. Hampden and others for being supp.'^s'd of the late Plot, for which Lord Russell and Col. Sidney suft'er'd ; as also the person who went about to prove that the Earle of Essex had his throat cut m the Tower by others ; likewise Mr. Johnson, the author of that famous piece called Julian. , • t 15. Newes of the Prince of Orange having accus d the Deputies ot Amsterdam of Crimen les^e Majestatis, and being Pensioners to France. Dr. Tenison communicated to me his intention of erecting a Library in St. Martin's parish, for the pubhq use, and desir'd my assistance with 1 There are different representations of this curious scene, both in wood and copper -pi Ue engravings. 456 PUBLIC LIBRARY FOR LONDON. TOUCHING FOR THE KING^S EVIL Sir Christopher Wren about the placeing and structure thereof. A worthy and laudable designe. He told me there »vere 30 or 40 young men in Orders in his parish, either Governors to young gentlemen 01 Chaplains to noblemen, who being reprov'd by him on occasion for frequenting taverns or coffee-houses, told him they would study or em- ploy their time better, if they had books. This put the pious Doctor on this vlesigne ; and indeede a greate reproch it is that so greate a Citty as London should not have a publiq Library becoming it. There ought to be one at St. Paules ; the West end of that church (if ever finish'd) would be a convenient place. 23. I went to Sir John Chardin, who desired my assistance for the engraving the plates, the translation, and printing his History of that wonderfull Persian Monument neere Persepolis, and other rare antiqui- ties, which he had caus'd to be drawne from the originals in his second journey into Persia, which we now concluded upon. Afterwards I went with Sir Christopher Wren to Dr. Tenison, where we made the drawing and estimate of the expence of the Library, to be begun this next Spring neere the Mewes '. Create expectation of the Prince of Orange's attempts in Holland to bring those to Amsterdam to consent to the new levies, to which we were no friends, by a pseudo-politic adherence to the French interest. 26. Came to visite me Dr. Turner, our new Bishop of Roches- ter. 28. I din'd at Lady Tuke's, where I heard Dr. Walgrave (Phy- sitian to the Duke and Dutchesse) play excellently on the lute. 7 March. Dn Meggot, Deaneof Winchester, preached an incompa- '-able sermon, (the King being now gone to New-market,) on 12 Heb. 15. shewing and pathetically pressing the care we ought to have least we come short of the grace of God. Afterwards I went to visite Dr. Tenison at Kensington, whither he was retired to refresh after he had ben sick of the small-pox. 15. At White-hall preached Mr. Henry Godolphin, a prebend of St. Paules, and brother to my deare friend Sydnie, on 55 Isaiah 7. I dined at the Lord Keeper's, and brought to him Sir John Chardin, who shewed him his accurate draughts of his travells in Persia, 28. There was so greate a concourse of people with their children to be touch'd for the Evil, that six or seven were crush'd to death by pressing at the Chirurgeon's doore for tickets. The weather began to be more mild and tolerable, but there was not the least appearance of any Spring. 30 Easter day. The Bp. of Rochester [Dr. Turner] preach'd be- fore the King ; after which his Majesty, accompanied with three of his \ There is now (1817) a handsome room well furnished with books, under the care of the Vicar of St. Martin's, in Castle-street, near the Mews gate. Sion College is more peculiarly appropriated lo the Clergy in the City. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 457 natural sonns, the Dukes of Northumberland, Richmond, and St Albans, (sons of Portsmouth, Cleaveland, and Nelly), went up to the Altar ; the three boys entering before the King within the railes, at the right hand, and three Bishops on the left, viz. London (who officiated), Durham, and Rochester, with the Sub-dean Dr. Holder. The King kneeHng before the Altar, making his offering, the Bishops first receiv'd, and then his Majesty ; after which he retir'd to a canopied seate on the right hand. Note, there was perfume burnt before the Office began. I had receiv'd the Sacrament at White-hall early with the Lords and Household, the Bishop of London officiating. Then went to St. Mar- tin's, where Dr. Tenison preach'd (recovered from the small-pox) ; then went againe to White-hall as above. In the afternoone went to St. Martin's againe. 4 April. I returned home with my family to my house at Sayes Court, after five months residence in London ; hardly the least appear- ance of any Spring. 30. A Letter of mine to the Royal Society concerning the terrible effects of the past winter being read, they desired it might be printed in the next Part of their Transactions.' 10 May. I went to visite my brother in Surrey. Call'd by the way at Ashted, where Sir Robert Howard (Auditor to the Exchequer) enter- tain'd me very civilly at his new built house, which stands in a Park on the Downe, the avenue South ; tho' downe hill to the house, which is not greate, but with the outhouses very convenient. The staire-case is painted by Verrio with the storie ol Astrea ; amongst other figures is the Picture of the Painter himselfe. and not unlike him ; the rest is well done, onely the columns did not at all please me ; there is also Sir Robert's own Picture in an oval ; the whole in fresca. The place has this greate defect, that there is no water but what is drawn up by horses from a very deepe well. 11. Visited Mr. Higham, who was ill, and died 3 days after. His grandfather and father (who christen'd me), with himselfe, had now ben Rectors of this parish loi yeares, viz. from May 1583. 12. I return 'd to London, where I found the Commissioners of the Admiraky abolish'd, and the office of Admiral restor d to the Duke, as to the disposal and ordering all Sea businesse ; but his Majesty signd all Petitions, Papers, Warrants, and Commissions, that the Duke, not acting as Admiral by commission or office, might not incur the penalty of the late Act against Papists and Dissenters holding offices, ana re- tusmg the Oath and Test. Every one was glad of this change, those in the late Commission being utterly ignorant m their duty, to the greate damage of the Navy. , , u • ♦ The utter ruine of the Low Country was threatened by the siege ot Luxembergh, if not timely reliev'd, and by the obstinacy of the Hol- t Tins wa. done in No. 158. See it in Dr. Kippis's Edit. Biog. Bru. vol.V. p. 6.3. 458 LUXEMBERG SURRENDERED. NEW ARRESTS IN LONDON. landers, who refus'd to assist the Prince of Orange, being corrupted by the French. i6. I received ^.600 of Sir Charles Bickerstaff for the fee-farm of Pilton in Devon. 26. Lord Dartmouth was chosen Master of the Trinity Company, newly return'd with the fleete from blowing up and demolishing Tan- gier. In the sermon preach 'd on this occasion Dr. Can observed that, in the 27th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles, the casting anchor out of the fore-ship had been cavill'd at as betraying total ignorance : that it is very true our seamen do not do so, but in the Mediterranean their ships were built differently from ours, and to this day it was the practice to do so there. Luxembcrgh was surrendered to the French, which makes them mas- ter of aU. the Netherlands, gives them entrance into Germany, and a fair game for universal monarchy ; which that we should suffer, who only and easily might have hinder'd, astonish'd all the world. Thus is the poor Prince of Orange ruin'd, and this nation and all the Protestant interest in Europe following, unlesse God in his infinite mercy, as by a miracle, interpose, and our greatc ones alter their counsels. The French fleete were now besieging Genoa, but after burning much of that beau- tifull citty with their bombs, went off with disgrace. 12 June. I went to advise and give directions about the building two streetes in Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house and as much of the garden as the breadth of the house. In the meane time I could not but deplore that sweete place (by far the most noble gardens, courts, and accommodations, stately porticos, &c. any where about the towne) should be so much straightened and turn'd into tenements. But that magnificent pile and gardens contiguous to it, built by the late Lord Chancellor Clarendon, being all demolish'd, and design'd for Piazzas and buildings, was some excuse for my Lady Berkeley's resolution of letting out her ground also for so excessive a price as was offer'd, advancing neere ^.1000 per ann. in mere ground-rents; to such a mad intemperance was the age come of building about a citty, by far too disproportionate already to the nation' ; I having in my time scene it almost as large again as it was within my memory. 1 1. My cousin Verney, to whom a very greate fortune was fallen, came to take leave of us, going into the country ; a very worthy and virtuous young gentleman. 22. Last Fiiday Sir Tho. Armstrong was executed at Tyburn for treason, without tryal, having been outlaw'd and apprehended in Hol- land, on the conspiracy of the Duke of Monmouth, Lord Russell, &c. which gave occasion of discourse to people and lawyers, in reguard it was on an outlawry that judgment was given and execution \ [ What would Mr. Evelyn think if he saw what is now called London ? • When brought up for judgement Armstrong Insisted on his right to a trial, the act giving THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 43^ 2 July. I went to the Observatory at Greenewich, where Mr Flam- sted tooke his observations of the ecHpse of the sun, now almost three parts obscured. There had been an excessive hot and dry Spring, and such a drou-ht still continu d as never was in my memorie. ° 13 July. Some small sprinkling of raine ; the leaves dropping from the trees as in Autumn. 25. I din'd at Lord Falkland's, Treasurer of the Navy, where after dinner we had rare musiq, there being, amongst others, Signior Pietro Reggio and Signior John Battist, both famous, one for his voice, the other for playing on the harpsichord, few if any in Europe exceeding him. There was also a Frenchman who sung an admirable basse. 26. I return'd home where I found my Lord Cheife Justice [Jeffe- ries], the Countesse of Clarendon, and Lady Cath. Fitz-Gerald, who dined with me. 10 August. We had now rain after such a drowth as no man in England had known. 24. Excessive hot. We had not had above one or two considerable showers, and those storms, these 8 or 9 months. Many trees died for the want of refreshment. 31. Mr. Sidney Godolphin was made Baron Godolphin. 26 Sept. The King being return'd from Winchester, there was a numerous Court at White-hall. At this time the Earle of Rochester was remov'd from the Treasury to the Presidentship of the Council ; Lord Godolphin was made first Commissioner of the Treasury in his place ; Lord Middleton (a Scot) made Secretary of State, in the room of Lord Godolphin. These alterations being very unexpected and mysterious, gave greate occasion of discourse. There was now an Ambassador from the King of Siam in the East Indies to his Majesty. 22. Oct. I went with Sir William Godolphin to see the Rhinoceros, or Unicorn, being the first that I suppose was ever brought into Eng.- land. She belong'd to some East India merchants, and was sold (as I remember) for above ^.2000. At the same time I went to see a Crocodile, brought from some of the West India islands, resembling the Egyptian Crocodile. 24 Oct. I din'd at Sir Stephen Fox's with the Duke of Northum- berland. He seem'd to be a young gentleman of good capacity, well bred, civil, and modest : newly come from travell, and had made his chat right to those who came m within a year, and the year was not expired. Jeffenes refused It ; and when Armstrong insisted that he asked nothing but law, Jeffenes told him he shou.d have it to the full, and ordered his execution in sb: days. When Jeffenes went to the King at Windsor soon after the trial, the King took a ring from his nnger, and gave it to Jeffenes. liumet II. 989. 46o THE LORD MAJOR'S SHEW ; THE QUEENE'S BIRTH-DAY. campaigne at the siege of Luxemburg. Of all his Majesty's children (of which he had now six Dukes) this seem'd the most accomplish'd and worth the owning. He is extraordinary handsome and well shap'd. What the Dukes of Richmond and St. Alban's will prove, their youth does not yet discover ; they are very pretty boys. 26. Dr. Goodman preach'd before the King on 2 James 12. con- cerning the law of liberty : an excellent discourse and in good method. He is author of ' The Prodigal Son,' a treatise worth reading, and another of the old Religion. 28. I carried Lord Clarendon thro' the Citty, amidst all the squibbs and Bacchanalia of the Lord Maior's shew, to the Royal Society [at Gresham Coll.] where he was propos d a member ; and then treated him at dinner. 1 went to St. Clements, that pretty built and contriv'd church, where a young divine gave us an eloquent Sermon on i Cor. 6. 20. inciting to gratitude and glorifying God for the fabriq of our bodys & the dignitie of our nature. 27. I visited the Lord Chamberlaine, where din'd the black Baron and Monsieur Flamerin, who had so long ben banish'd France foi a duel. 2 Nov. A suddaine change from temperate warme weather to an excessive cold raine, frost, snow, and storm, such as had seldome ben known. This Winter weather began as early and fierce as the past did late ; till about Christmas there had ben hardly any Winter. 4. Dr. Turner, now translated from Rochester to Ely upon the death of Dr. Peter Gunning, preached before the King at White-hall on 3 Romans 8, a very excellent sermon, vindicating the Church of Eng- land against the pernicious doctrines of the Church of Rome. He challenged the producing but of 5 Cleargymen who forsooke our Church and went over to that of Rome, during all the troubles & rebelhon in England, which lasted neere twenty yeares ; and this was to my certaine observation a greate truth. 15. Being the Queene's birth-day, there were fire-works on the Thames before White-hall, with pageants of castles, forts, and other devices of gyrondolas, serpents, the King and Queene's armes and mottos, all represented in fire, such as had not ben seen here. But the most remarkable was the severall fires and skirmishes in the very water, which actually mov'd a long way, burning under the water, now and then appearing above it, giving reports like muskets and cannon, with granados and innumerable other devices. It is said it cost £. 1 500. It was concluded with a ball, where all the young ladys and gallants daunced in the greate hall. The Court had not ben scene so brave and rich in apparell since his Majesty's Restauration. 30. In the morning Dr. Fiennes, sonn of the Lord Say & Seale. preached before the King on 21 Joshua 11. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 3 Dec. I carried Mr. Jiistell and Mr. Slingsby (Master of the Mint), to see Mr. Sheldon's collection of Medaills. The series of Popes was rare, and so were several amongst the modernes, especialy that of John Husse's martyrdome at Constance ; of the Roman Emp. Consiilars ; some Greeke, &c. in copper, gold, and silver ; not many truly antique ; a medallion of Otho, P. ^mil. &c. hardly antient. They were held at a price of ^.looo, but not worth, I judge, above £.200. 7. I went to see the new church at St. James's, elegantly built ; the altar was especialy adorn 'd, the white marble inclosure curiously and richly carved, the flowers and garlands about the walls by Mr. Gibbons in wood ; a pelican with her young at her breast, just over th© iltar in the carv'd compartment and border, invironing the purple velvet fring'd with I. H. S. richly embroider'd, and most noble plate, were given by Sir R. Geere, to the value (as was said) of £.200. There was no altar any where in England, nor has there ben any abroad, more handsomely adorn'd. 17. Early in the morning I went into St. James's Park to see three Turkish or Asian horses, newly brought over, and now first shewed to his Majesty. There were foure, but one of them died at sea, being three weekes coming from Hamborow. They were taken from a Bashaw at the siege of Vienna, at the late famous raising that leaguer. I never beheld so delicate a creature as one of them was, of somewhat a bright bay, two white feet, a blaze ; such a head, eyes, eares, neck, breast, belly, haunches, legs, pasterns, and feete, in all reguards beauti- full and proportion'd to admiration ; spirited, proud, nimble, making halt, turning with that swiftnesse, and in so small a compasse, as was admirable. With all this so gentle and tractable as call'd to mind what I remember Eusbequius speakes of them, to the reproch of our groomes in Europe, who bring up their horses so churiishly as makes most of them retain Iheir ill habits. They trotted like does, as if they did not feele the ground. $00 ginnies was demanded for the first ; 300 for the second ; and 200 for the third, which was browne. All of them were choicely shap'd, but the two last not altogether so perfect as the first. It was judg'd by the spectators, among whom was the King, Prince of Denmark, Duke of Yorke, and several of the Court, noble persons, skill'd in horses, especialy Mons. Faubert and his sonn, (pro- vost masters of the Academic, and esteem'd of the best m Europe ) that there were never seene any horses in these parts to be cojnpar^d with them. Add to all this, the furniture, consisting of embroidery on the saddle, houseings, quiver, bow, arrows, scymeter, sword, mace or battle-axe d la Turcisq; the Bashaw's velvet mantle furr d . ith the most perfect ermine I ever beheld ; all -hich yron.vorke in common furniture, being here of silver, curiously wrought ^^^f /^^J^f^^^^^^^^^ incredible value. Such and so extraordinary was ^^"^^^^^^^^^^ I never saw any thing approching it. The reins and headstaU were ot 462 LORD CORNWALLIS : THE GYMNASIUM ; DUELLING IN ENGLAND. crimson silk, cover'd with chaines of silver gilt. There was also a Turkish royal standard of an horse's taile, together with all sorts of other caparisons belonging to a general's horse, by which one may estimate how gallantly and magnificently those infidels appeare in the field, for nothing could be scene more glorious. The gentleman (a German) who rid the horse was in all this garb. They were shod with yron made round and closed at the heele, with a hole in the middle about as wide as a shilling. The hoofes most intire. 18 Dec. I went with Lord Cornwallis to see the young gallants do their exercise, Mr. Faubert having newly rail'd in a manage, and fitted it for the academy. There were the Dukes of Norfolk and Northum- berland, Lord Newburgh, and a nephew of (Duras) Earle of Feversham. The exercises were, i. running at the ring ; 2. flinging a javelin at a Moor's head ; 3. discharging a pistol at a mark ; lastly, taking up a gauntlet with the point of a sword ; all these perform'd in full speede. The D. of Northumberland hardly miss'd of succeeding in every one, a dozen times, as I think. The D. of Norfolk did exceeding bravely. Lords Newburgh and Duras seem'd nothing so dextrous. Here I saw the difference of what the French call bel homme h cheval" and ^^1)071 homme a chevalj" the Duke of Norfolk being the first, that is, rather a fine person on a horse, the Duke of Northumberland being both in perfection, namely, a graceful person and excellent rider. But the Duke of Norfolk told me he had not ben at this exercise these 12 yeares before. There were in the field the Prince of Denmark, and the Lord Landsdown, sonn of the Earle of Bath, who had ben made a Count of the Empire last Summer for his service before Vienna. 20. A villainous murder was perpetrated by Mr. St. John, eldest son to Sir Walter St. John, a worthy gentleman, on a knight of quality 1, in a tavern. The offender was sentenc'd and repriev'd. So many horrid murders and duels were committed about this time as were never before heard of in England, which gave much cause of complaint and murmurings. 1685. I Jan. It prov'd so sharp weather, and so long and cruel a frost, that the Thames was frozen acrosse, but the frost was often dis- solved, and then froze again. I I. A young man preached upon 13 St. Luke 5. after the Presby- terian tedious method and repetition. 24. 1 din'd at Lord Newport's, who has some excellent pictures, especialy that of Sir Tho. Hanmcr, by Van Dyke, one of the best he 'iver painted ; another of our English Dobson's painting ; but above I Sir William Estcourt. It was in a sudden quarrel, and there was doubt whether it was more than manslaughter ; but he was advised to plead guilty, and then had a pardon, for which he paid /i, 600. Exactly loo years before, one of his family was tried for a simllai offence, ac-initted. but obli^xed to go abroad, though he was afterwards employed. • M->nnin(f nd Krays Hist, of Surrey, III. 333, App. cxx. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 463 all, Christ in the Virgin's lap by Poussin, an admirable piece, with something of most other famous hands. 25. Dr. Dove preach'd before the King. I saw this evening such a scene of profuse gaming, and the King in the midst of his three con- cubines, as I had never before seen. Luxurious dallying and pro- phanenesse. 27. I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, being invited to heare that cele- brated voice of Mr. Pordage, newly come from Rome ; his singing was after the Venetian recitative, as masterly as could be, and with an excellent voice both treble and basse ; Dr. Walgrave accompanied it with his theorba lute, on which he perform'd beyond imagination, and is doubtlesse one of the greatest masters in Europe on that charming in- strument. Pordage is a priest, as Mr. Bernard Howard told me in private. There was in the roome where we din'd, and in his bed-chamber, those incomparable pieces of Columbus a Flagellation, the Grammar- schoole, the Venus and Adonis of Titian ; and of Vandyke's that pic- ture of the late E. of Digby (father of the Countess of Sunderland), and Earle of Bedford, Sir Kenehn Digby, and two Ladys of incom- parable performance ; besides that of Moses and the burning bush of Bassano, and several other pieces of the best masters. A marble head of M. Brutus, &c. 28. I was invited to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, (now newly releas'd of his 6 yeares confinement in the Tower on suspicion of the Plot call'd Oates's Plot,) where after dinner the same Mr. Pordage entertain'd us with his voice, that excellent and stupendous artist Sig- nior Jo. Baptist playing to it on the harpsichord. My daughter Mary being with us, she also sung to the greate satisfaction of both the masters, and a world of people of quality present. She did so also at my Lord Rochester's the evening following, where we had the French Boy so fam'd for his singing, and indecde he had a delicate voice, and had ben well taught. I also heard Mrs. Packer (daughter to my old friend) sing before his Majesty and the Duke, pri- vately, that stupendous basse Gosling accompanying her, but hers was so loud as tooke away much of the sweetnesse. Certainly never woman had a stronger or better eare, could she possibly have govern d it. bhe would do rarely in a large church among the nunns. ^ , 4 Feb. I went to London, hearing his Majesty had ben the Monday before (2 Feb.) surpriz'd in his bed-chamber ^.-ith an apoplectic fit, so that if, by God's providence, Dr. King (that excellent ch.rurgeon as wella;physitian) had not ben accidentally present let him b^^^^^^^^ (having his lancet in his pocket) his Majesty had certain y di d th^^ moment, which might have ben of direful ^^^^^^q"^"^^' J^"^ body else present with the King save this Doctor and one more as I am assur'd It was a mark of the extraordinary dexterit), resolution, 464 DANGEROUS ILLNESS AND DEATH OF CHARLES It and presence of mind in the Doctor, to let him bloud in the very pa- roxysm, without staying the coming of other physitians, which regularly should have ben don, and for want of which he must have a regular par- don, as they tell me \ This rescu'd his Majesty for the instant, but it was only a short reprieve. He still complain'd, and was relapsing, often fainting, with sometimes epileptic symptoms, till Wednesday, for which he was cupp'd, let bloud in both jugulars, had both vomit and purges, which so reliev'd him that on Thursday hopes of recovery were signified in the publiq Gazette, but that day, about noone, the physitians thought him feaverish. This they seem'd glad of, as being more easily allay' d and methodically dealt with than his former fits ; so as they prescrib'd the famous Jesuits powder : but it made him worse, and some very able Doctors who were present did not think it a fever, but the effect of his frequent bleeding and other sharp operations us'd by them about his head, so that probably the powder might stop the circulation, and renew his former fits, which now made him very weake. Thus he pass'd Thursday night with greate difficulty, when complaining of a paine in his side, they drew 12 ounces more of blood from him ; this was by 6 in the morning on Friday, and it gave him reliefe, but it did not continue, for being now in much paine, and struggling for breath, he lay dozing, and after some conflicts, the physitians despai' "'g of him, he gave up the ghost at halfe an houre after eleven in the moriiing, bei:^g 6 Feb. 1685, in the 36th yeare of his reigne, and 54th of his age. Prayers were solemnly made in all the Churches, especialy in both the Court Chapells, where the Chaplaines reliev'd one another every halfe quarter of an houre from the time he began to be in danger till he expir'd, according to the forme prescrib'd in the Church Offices. Those who assisted his Majesty's devotions were, the Abp. of Canter- bury, the Bishops of London, Durham, and Ely, but more especialy Dr. Ken, the Bp. of Bath and Wells It is sayd they exceedingly ' The Privy Council approved of what he had done, and ordered him ;{^iooo, but which was oeser paid hiin. Burnet, II. loio*.— There are two line portraits of Dr. King engraved, and 'n mczzotinto, in which the above instance of his skill and promptitude is noticed. ^ The account given of this by King James II, is, that when the King's life was wholly de- ipaired of, and it was time to prepare for another world, two Bishops came to do their func- tion, who reading the prayers appointed in the Common Prayer Book on that occasion, when they came to the place where usually they exhort a sick person to make a confession of his tins, the Bishop of Bath and Wells, who was one of them, advertized him, zvns not of obli- gation ; and after a short exhortation asked him, if he were sorry for his sins ? which the Kuig saying he was, the Bishop pronounced the absolution, and then asked him if he pleased to receive the Sacrament ? to which the King made no reply, and being pressed by the Bishop several times, gave no other answer but that it was time enough, or that he would think of it. King James says that he stood all the while by the bed-side, and seeing the King would not receive the Sacrament from tiem, and knowing his sentiments, he desired the company to stand a little from the bed, and then asked the King whether he should send for a Priest, to which the King replied, * For God's sake, brother, do, and lose no time.' The Duke said he would bring one to him : but none could be found except father Huddleston, who had been so ass»st.-int ii; the King's escape from Worcester ; he was brought up by a back staircase, ajid the company were desired to withdraw, but he (the Duke of York) not thinking fit th.it h^ THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 465 arg'd the receiving the Holy Sacrament, but his Majesty told them he would consider of it, which he did so long 'till it was too late. Others whispered that the Bishops and Lords, except the Earles of Bath and Feversham, being order'd to withdraw the night before, Hurlston, the Priest, had presumed to administer the Popish Offices. He gave his breeches and keys to the Duke, who was almost continually kneeling by his bed-side, and in teares. He also recommended to him the care of his natural children, all except the Duke of Monmouth, now in Holland, and in his displeasure. He intreated the Queene to pardon him (not without cause) ; who a httle before had sent a Bishop to excuse her not more frequently visiting him, in regard of her excessive griefe, and withall, that his Majesty would forgive it if at any time she had offended him. He spake to the Duke of York to be kind to the Dutchesse of Cleaveland, and especialy Portsmouth, and that Nelly might not starve. Thus died King Charles H. of a vigorous and robust constitution, and in all appearance promising a long life. He was a Prince of many virtues, and many greate imperfections ; debonnaire, easy ot accesse, not bloudy nor cruel ; his countenance fierce, his voice greate, proper of person, every motion became him ; a lover of the sea, and skilfiill in shipping ; not affecting other studies, yet he had a laboratory, and knew of many empirical medicines, and the easier mechanical mathe- matics ; he lov'd planting and building, and brought in a politer way of living, which pass'd to luxury and intolerable expense. He had a particular talent in teUing a story, and facetious passages, of which he had innumerable ; this made some buftoons and vitious wretches too presumptuous and familiar, not worthy the favour they abus'd. He tooke delight in having a number of little spaniels follow him and he in his bed-chamber, where he often suffer'd the bitches to puppy and give suck, which rendered it very offensive, and indeede made the whole Court nasty and stinking. He would doubtlesse have ben an excellenj Prince, had he ben less addicted to women, who made him uneasy, ang allways in want to supply their unmeasurable profusion, to the detri- ment of many indigent persons who had signaly serv'd both him and his father. He frequently and easily chang'd favorites, to his greate prejudice. As to other publiq tran!:actions and unhappy miscarriages, 'tis not here I intend to number them ; but certainly never had Kii:« more glorious opportunities to have made himselfe, his people, and all Europe happy, and prevented innumerable mischiefs, had not his too easy nature resign'd him to be managed by crafty men, and son ^e abandon'd and profane wretches who corrupted his «thenv«e suffig ent parts, disciplined as he had ben by many afflictions during his b.ims h. should be left alone with the King, desired the Ear! of^fj^^^^ojdj i^^^^^ and the Earl of Faversham. Captain of the Guard should f ' J^^yf^j;' ^;p. ' Huudleston was introduced, and administered the Sacrament. Life of James 1 J. p 747 466 LAST HOURS, FAULTS AND CHARACTER OF THE LATE KING. ment, which gave him much experience and knowledge of men and things ; but those wicked creatures took him off from all application becoming so greate a King. The history of his reigne will certainely be the most wonderful! for the variety of matter and accidents, above any extant in former ages : the sad tragical death of his father, his banishment and hardships, his miraculous restauration, conspiracies against him, parhaments, wars, plagues, fires, comets, revolutions abroad happening in his time, with a thousand other particulars. He was ever kind to me, and very gracious upon all occasions, and there- fore I cannot, without ingratitude, but deplore his losse, which for many respects as well as duty I do with all my soul. His Majesty being dead, the Duke, now K. James II. went imme- diately to Council, and before entering into any businesse, passionately declaring his sorrow, told their Lordships that since the succession had fallen to him, he would endeavour to follow the example of his prede- cessor in his clemency and tendernesse to his people ; that, however he had ben misrepresented as affecting arbitrary power, they should find the contrary, for that the laws of England had made the King as greate a monarch as he could desire ; that he would endeavor to maintain the Government both in Church and State, as by Law establish'd, its prin- ciples being so firme for monarchy, and the members of it shewing themselves so good and loyal subjects and that as he would never 1 This is the substance and very nearly in the words given by King James IL in his MSS. printed in his Life; but in that MSS. are some words which Mr, Evelyn has omitted, viz. after speaking of the Members of the Church of England as good and loyal subjects, the King adds, attd therefore I shall always take care to defend atid support it. The King then goes on to say, that being desired by some present to allow copies to be taken, he said he had not committed it to writing ; on which Mr. Finch [then Solicitor General, afterwards Earl of AylesfordJ replied, that what his Majesty had said had made so deep an impression on him, that he believed he could repeat the very words, and if his Majesty would permit him, he would write them down; which the King agreeing to, he went to a table and wrote them down, and this being shewn to the King, he approved of it, and it was immediately published. The King then goes on to say ; No one can wonder that Mr, Finch should word the speech as strong as he could in favour of the Established Religion, nor that the King in such a hurry sliould pass it over without reflection ; for though his Majesty intended to promise both se- curity to their religion and protection to their persons, he was afterwards convinced it had been better expressed by assuring them he never would endeavour to alter the established Religion, rather than that he would endeavour to preserve it, and that he would rather support and defend the professors of it, rather than the Religion itself; they could not expect he »hould make a conscience of supporting what in his conscience he thought erroneous ; his engaging not to molest the professors of it, nor to deprive them or their successors of any spiritual dignity, revenue, or employment, but to suffer the ecclesiastical affairs to go on in the track they were in, was all they could wish or desire from a Prince of a different persua- sion ; but having once approved that way of expressing it which Mr. Finch had made choice of, he thought it necessary not to vary from it in the declarations or speeches he made after- wards, not doubting but the worid would understand it in the meaning he intended.— 'Tis true afterwards it 7t/aJ pretended he kept not up to this engagement, but had they deviated no further from the duty and allegiance which both nature and repeated oaths obliged them to, th Uon of not communicating with it in spiritual things ; to avoid, therefore, either disputes oa one hand, or scandal on the other, it was thought more prudent to do it in a more private man- ner, though at the same time there was no circumstance of state and pomp omitted, which possibly could be allowed of. All the Privy Council, all the household, and all the Lords abou* lownc attended at the funeral. Life of King James II. vol. II. p. 6. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 469 17. This morning his Majesty restored the staffe and key to Lord Arlington, Chamberlaine ; to Mr. Savill, Vice-chamberlaine ; to Lords Newport and Mainard, Treasurer and Comptroler of the Household; Lord Godolphin made Chamberlaine to the Queene ; Lord Peterborow Groome of the Stole in place of the Earle of Bath ; the Treasurer's staff to the Earle of Rochester ; and his brother the Earle of Clarendon Lord Privie Scale in place of the Marquis of Halifax, who was made [^resident of the Council ; the Secretarysof State remaining as before. 19. The Lord Treasurer and the other new Officers were sworneat the Chancery Barr and the Exchequer. The late King having the revenue of Excise, Costoms, and other late duties granted for his life only, they were now farmed and lett to seve- rall persons, upon an opinion thai the late King might lett them for three yeares after his decease ; some of the old Commissioners refus'd to act. The lease was made but the day before the King died ' ; the major part of the Judges (but as some think not the best Lawyers) pro- nounc'd it legal, but four dissented. The Clerk of the Closet had shut up the late King's private Oratorie next the Privy-chamber above, but the King caus'd it to be open'd againe, and that prayers should be said as formerly. 22. Several most useful Tracts against Dissenters, Papists, and Fanatics, and Resolutions of Cases, were now publish'd by the London Divines. 4 Mar. Ash-Wednesday ; after evening prayers I went to London. 5. To my griefe I saw the new pulpit set up in the Popish Oratorie at White-hall for the Lent preaching, masse being publicly said, and the Romanists swarming at Court with greater confidence than had ever ben seene in England since the Reformation, so as every body grew jealous to what this would tend. A Parliament was now summoned, and greate industry us'd to obtame elections which might promote the Court interest, most of the Corpo- rations being now by their new Charters impower'd to make what re- turnes of members they pleas'd. There came over divers envoys and greate persons to condole the death of the late King, who were receiv'd by the Queene Dowager on a bed of mourning, the whole chamber, cieling and floore hung with black, and tapers were lighted, so as nothing could be more lugubrous and solemne. The Queene Consort sat out under a state on a b ack foot-cloth, to entertaine the circle (as the Queene us'd to do), and that T "^Lenfpreachers continued as formerly in the Royal Chapell. 1 King Jan.es. in his Life, .a.es no mention of iJ'^ i^^;^^^^^^^^ collect them, which conduct was not blamed ; but on 'he contrary. presented by address from the Middle Temple, penned by Svr ^.'^^'^'^'^'"^ , Parliament find Guilt Sir Humphrey Mackworth, carrying great authority with .t, nor aio Vol. II. pp. 16, xj. 470 DEATH, ACCOMPLISHMENTS AND VIRTUE OF MY DAUGHTER MARY. 7. My daughter Mary was taken with the small pox, and there soon was found no hope of her recovery. A very greate affliction to me: but God's holy will be done. 10. She receiv'd the blessed Sacrament ; after which, disposing herselfe to suffer what God should determine to inflict, she bore the remainder of her sicknesse with extraordinary patience and piety, and more than ordinary resignation and blessed frame of mind. She died the 14th, to our unspeakable sorrow and affliction, and not to ours onely, but that of all who knew her, who were many of the best quality, greatest and most virtuous persons. The justnesse of her stature, person, comelinesse of countenance, gracefullnesse of motion, unaffected tho* more than ordinary beautifull, were the least of her ornaments compared with those of her mind. Of early piety, singularly religious, spending a part of every day in private devotion, reading and other vertuous exer- cises : she had collected and written out many of the most usefull and judicious periods of the books she read in a kind of common-place, as out of Dr. Hammond on the New Testament, and most of the best practical treatises. She had read and digested a considerable deale of history and of places. The French tongue was as familiar to her as English ; she understood Italian, and was able to render a laudable account of what she read and observed, to which assisted a most faith- ful memory and discernment ; and she did make very prudent and dis- crccte reflections upon what she had observed of the conversations among which she had at any time ben, which being continualy of per- sons of the best quality, she thereby improved. She had an excellent voice, to which she play'd a thorough bass on the harpsichord, in both which she arived to that perfection, that of the schollars of those two famous masters Signiors Pietro and Bartholomeo she was esteem'd the best ; for the sweetnesse of her voice and management of it added such an agreeablenesse to her countenance, without any constraint or con- cerne, that when she sung, it was as charming to the eye as to the eare ; this I rather note, because it was a universal remarke, and for which so many noble and judicious persons in musiq desired to heare her, the last being at Lord Arundel's of Wardour. What shall I say, or rather not say, of the cheerefuUness and agreeablenesse of her humour ? con- descending to the meanest servant in the family, or others, she still kept up respect, without the least pride. She would often reade to them, examine, instruct, and pray with them if they were sick, so as she was exceedingly beloved of every body. Piety was so prevalent an ingre- dient in her constitution (as I may say) that even amongst equals and superiors she no sooner became intimately acquainted, but she would endeavo'jr to improve them, by insinuating something of rehgious,and that tended to bring them to a love of devotion ; she had one or two confidents with whom she used to passe whole dayes in fasting, reading, and prayers, especialy before the monethly communion and other THE DIARY OF JOffN EVELYN. 471 solemn occasions. She abhorr'd flattery, and the' shi had aboundancc of witt, the raillery was so innocent and ingenuous that it was most agree- able ; she sometimes would see a play, but since the stage grew hcen- tious, express'd herselfe weary of them, and the time spent at the theater was an unaccountable vanity. She never play'd at cards without ex- treame importunity and for the company, but this was so very seldome that I cannot number it among any thing she could name a fault. No one could read prose or verse better or with more judgment ; and as she read, so she writ, not only most correct orthography, with that maturitie of judgment and exactnesse of the periods, choice of ex- pressions, and familiarity of stile, that some letters of hers have astonish'd me and others to whom she has occasionally written. She had a talent of rehersing any comical part or poeme, as to them she might be decently free with was more pleasing than heard on the theater ; she daunc'd with the greatest grace I had ever scene, and so would her master say, who was Monsieur Isaac ; but she seldome shew'd that per- fection, save in the gracefullnesse of her carriage, which was with an aire of spritely modestie not easily to be described. Nothing affected, but natural and easy as well in her deportment as in her discourse, which was always materiall, not trifling, and to which the extraordinary swcet- nesse of her tone, even in familiar speaking, was very charming. No- thing was so pretty as her descending to play with little children, whom she would caresse and humour with greate delight. But she most affected to be with grave and sober men, of whom she might learne something, and improve herselfe. I have ben assisted by her m readmg and praying by me ; comprehensive of uncommon notions, curious of knowing every thing to some excesse, had I not sometimes repressed it. Nothing was so delightfull to her as to go into my study, where she would willingly have spent whole dayes, for as I sayd she had read aboundance of history, and all the best poets, even Terence Flautus, Homer, Virgil, Horace, Ovid ; all the best romances and modem poemes ; she could compose happily, and put in pretty symbols as m the Mundus Midiebris, (a poem of Evelyn's) wherein is an enume at on of the immense variety of the modes and o^!^''^"^^"^^,^^^^"^^"/,;,^ ^^^^^ sex - but all these are vaine trifles to the virtues which adorn d her soul^^shfwasTncerely religious, most dutiful! to her P-nts whom she lov'd with an affection temper'd with greate esteeme so as . e w ere easy and free, and never were so well pleas'd as when she ^. as with us, nor needed we other conversation ; she was kind to h r sisters and was still improving them by her ^^^"f^^f^^^, ^ alMh deare, sweete, and desireable child, how shall I ^f^tx^^^^cvoi a ness and virtue without the bitternesse f . ^^^^^^^ a thai of a tender parent! Thy affection, duty, and love to me friend as well as a child. Nor lesse ^eare o thy mo^he^^^^ ample and tender care of thee was unparelleld, nor was tny I MY RESIGNATION UNDER SEVERE DOMESTIC TRIiVL. to her lesse conspicuous ; Oh ! how she mourns thy loss ! how desolate hast thou left us ! To the grave shall we both carry thy memory ! God alone (in whose bosom thou art at rest and happy !) give us to rcsigne thee and all our contentments (for thou indeede wert all in this world) to his blessed pleasure ! Let him be glorified by our submission, and give us grace to blesse him for the graces he implanted in thee, thy virtuous life, pious and holy death, which is indeede the onely comfort of our soules, hastening thro' the infinite love and mercy of the Lord Jesus to be shortly with thee, deare child, and with thee and those blessed saints like thee, glorifye the Redeemer of the world to all eter- nity ! Amen ! It was in the 19th year of her age that this sicknesse happen'd to her. An accident contributed to this disease ; she had an apprehension of it in particular, and which struck her but two days before she came home, by an imprudent gentlewoman whom she went with Lady Falkland to visite, who after they had ben a good while in the house, told them she hud a servant sick of the small pox (who indeede died the next day) ; ehis my poore child acknowledg'd made an impression on her spirits. There were foure gentlemen of quality offering to treate with me about marriage, and I freely gave her her owne choice knowing her discre- tion. She showed great indifference to marrying at all, for truly, says she to her mother (the other day), were I assur'd of your life and my deare father's, never would I part from you ; I love you and this home, where we serve God, above all things, nor ever shall I be so happy: I know and consider the vicissitudes of the world, I have some expe- rience of its vanities, and but for decency more than inclination, and that you judge it expedient for me, I would not change my condition, but rather add the fortune you designe me to my sisters, and keepe up the reputation of our family. This was so discreetly and sincerely utter'd that it could not but proceede from an extraordinary child and one who lov'd her parents beyond example. At London she tookethis fatal disease, and the occasion of her being there was this ; my Lord Viscount Falkland's Lady having ben our neighbour (as he was Treasurer of the Navy), she tooke so greate an affection to my daughter, that when they went back in the autumn to the Citty, nothing would satisfie their incessant importunity but letting her accompany my Lady, and staying sometime with her ; it was with the greatest reluctance I complied. Whilst she was there, my Lord being musical, when I saw my Lady would not part with her till Christ- mas, I was not unwilling she should improve the opportunity of learn- ing of Signior Pietro, who had an admirable way both of composure and teaching. It was the end of February before I could prevail with my Lady to part with her ; but my Lord going into Oxfordshire to itand for Knight of the Shire there, she cxpress'd her wish to come ^ouic, being iir'd of the vain and empty conversation of the towne, the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. theatres, the court, and trifling visites which consum'd so much precious time, and made her sometimes misse of that regular course of piety that gave her the greatest satisfaction. She was weary of this hfe, and I think went not thrice to Court all this time, except when her mothei or I carried her. She did not affect shewing herselfe, she knew the Court well, and pass'd one summer in it at Windsor with Lady Tuke one of the Queene's women of the bed chamber (a most virtuous re- lation of hers) ; she was not fond of that glittering scene, now become abominably licentious, though there was a designe of Lady Rochester and Lady Clarendon to have made her a maid of honour to the Queene as soon as there was a vacancy. But this she did not set her heart upon, nor indeede on any thing so much as the service of God, a quiet and regular life, and how she might improve herselfe in the most ne- cessary accomplishments, and to which she was arriv'd at so greate a measure. This is the little history and imperfect character of my deare child, whose piety, virtue, and incomparable endowments deserve a monu- ment more durable than brasse and marble. Precious is the memo- rial of the just. Much I could enlarge on every period of this hasty account, but that I ease and discharge my overcoming passion for the present, so many things worthy an excellent Christian and dutifuU child crowding upon me. Never can I say enough, oh deare, my deare child, whose memory is so precious to me ! This deare child was born at Wotton in the same house and chamber in which I first drew my breath, my wife having retired to my brother there in the great sicknesse that yeare upon the first of that moneth, and neere the very houre that I was borne, upon the last: viz. October. 1 6 March. She was interr'd in the South-east end of the Church at Deptford, neere her grandmother and severall of my younger children and relations. My desire was she should have ben carried and layed among my own parents and relations at Wotton, where I desire to be interr'd myselfe, when God shall call me out of this uncertaine transi- tory life, but some circumstances did not permit it. Our Vicar JJr. Holden preach'd her funeral sermon on i Phil. 21. For to me to live is Christ and to die is gaine,^lpon which he made an apposite disc^^^^^^^^^ as those who heard it assur'd me (for griefe suffer'd me not to be pre sent), concluding with a modest recital of her many virtues and gna piety so as to draw both teares and admiration from the heare s. I was not altogether unwilling that something of this jh^i^^^^^ spoken for the edification and encouragement of other young peo^^^^^ Divers noble persons honoured her funeral, sending their coaches, of which there were six or seven -th ix horsey viz. thf Countesse of Sunderland, Earle of C^.'-^^j^^^'p^^^^^^^^ phin,Sir Stephen Fox, Sir William Godolphin Viscount P a« otliers. There were distributed amongst her friends about sixty ring 474 MY DAUGHTER WAS A LITTLE MIRACLE WHEN SHE LIVED. Thus liv'd, (lied, and was buried the joy of my life, and ornamem of her sex and of my poore family ! God Almighty of his infinite mercy grant me the grace thankfully to resigne myselfe and all I have, or had, to his divine pleasure, and in his good time, restoring health and comfort to my family: * teach me so to number my days that 1 may apply my heart to wisdom,' be prepared for my dissolution, and that into the hands of my blessed Saviour I may recommend my spirit ! Amen ! On looking into her closet, it is incredible what a number of collec- tions she had made from historians, poetcs, travellers, &c. but above all devotions, contemplations, and resoKi lions on these contemplations, found under her hand in a booke most methodically dispos'd ; prayers, meditations, and devotions on particular occasions, with many pretty letters to her confidants ; one to a divine (not nam'd) to whom she writes that he would be her ghostly father, and would not despise her for her many errors and the imperfections of her youth, but beg of God to give her courage to acquaint him with all her faults, imploring his assistance and spiritual directions. I well remember she had often de- sir'd me to recommend her to such a person, but I did not think fit to do it as yet, seeing her apt to be scrupulous, and knowing the great innocency and integrity of her Hfe. It is astonishing how one who had acquir'd such substantial and practical knowledge in other ornamental parts of education, especialy music both vocal and instrumental, in dauncing, paying and receiving visites, and necessary conversation, could accomplish halfe of what she has left ; but she never affected play or cards, which consume a world of precious time, so she was in continual exercise, which yet abated nothing of her most agreeable conversation. But she was a little mi- racle while she liv'd, and so she died ! i6 Mar. I was invited to the funerall of Capt. Gunman, that excel- lent pilot and seaman, who had behav'd himselfe so valiantly in the Dutch warr. He died of a gangrene, occasion'd by his fall from the pier of Calais. This was the Captain of the yatcht carrying the Duke (now King) to Scotland, and was accus'd for not giving timely warning when she split on the sands, where so many perish'd ; but I am most confident he was no ways guilty, either of negligence or designe, as he made appeare not onely at the examination of the matter of fact, but in the Vindication he shew'd me, and which must needes give any man of reason satisfaction. He was a sober, frugal, cheerfull and tempe- rate man ; we have few such seamen left. 8 April. Being now somewhat compos'd after my greate affliction, I went to London to hear Dr. Tenison (it being on a Wednesday in Lent) at White-hall. I observed that tho' the King was not in his seate above in the chapcll, the Doctor made his three congees, which ihey were not us'd to do when the late King was absent, making then THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 475 one bowing onely. I ask'd the reason ; it was sayd he had a special order so to do. The Princesse of Denmark was in the King's Closet, but sat on the left hand of the chaire, the Clearke of the Closet stand- ing by His Majesty's chaire, as if he had ben present. I met the Queene Dowager going now first from White-hall to dwell at Somerset-house. This day my brother of Wotton and Mr. Onslow were candidates for Surrey against Sir Adam Brown and my cousin Sir Edward Evelyn, and were circumvented in their election by a trick of the Sheriff s' taking advantage of my brother's party going out of the small village of Leatherhead to seek shelter and lodging, the afternoone being tempestuous, proceeding to the Election when they were gon ; they expecting the next morning ; whereas before and then they exceeded the other party by many hundreds, as I am assur'd. The Duke of Norfolk led Sir Edw. Evelyn's and Sir Adam Brown's party. For this Parliament, very meane and slight persons (some of them gentlemen's servants, clearkes, and persons neither of reputation nor interest) were set up, but the country would choose my brother whether he would or no, and he miss'd it by the trick above mention'd. Sir Adam Brown was so deafe that he could not heare one word. Sir Edw. Evelyn was an honest gentleman much in favour with his Majesty. 10 1 went early to White-hall to heare Dr. Tillotson, Deane of Canterbury, preaching on 9 Eccles. 18. I returned in the evening, and visited Lady Tuke, and found with her Sir Geo. Wakeman, the physi- tian, whom I had seene tried and acquitted, amongst the plotters for poisoning the late King, on the accusation of the famous Gates , and ^ ~ I went to London to passe the holy G^od Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at the new church at St Jam'es's, on i Cor. 16, 22, upon the — ^^^^^ he illustrated in many instances The ^^^^ the after- which I participated. The Lord make "^^^Jj^^f ^^^i^.^^u cH'^P^^"' noone Dr. Sp-t, Bp of Roc e^^^^^^^^^^ ^ny the auditory very full of Lords, we t ^ Coronation others, now drawne to towne upon '^e occasion o _ and ensuing Parliament. I supp'd with the Countesse land and Lord Godolphin, and returned ho>"e solemnity 23. Was the Coronation of the King Queene^ wasWificent, as is set forth in print ^ ^^P^J J^^, ' Mr. Samuel Lewen. His name does "O'^f Pf^^vl^j; Lewen purchased the rectory of landowners, but it is there stated that in ^709 o Ewel. and that he was Lord Mayor of London m xji?- ^^^^ ,u„e„dered thcr chaM« . 2 His seat was at LongDitton, near f '^^^^ King James appointed Sir ¥.dwr4 to King Charles II. about a month before his death. K Evelyn one of the new Corporation. 476 TITUS GATES TRIED, CONVICTED, WHIPPED, AND PILLORIED. but, to the greate sorrow of the people, no Sacramentj as ought to have ben. Howev j • the King begins his reigne with greate u..pecta- lions, and hopes of much reformation as to the late vices and proi phanenesse both of Court and Country. Having ben present at the late King^s Coronation, I was not ambitious of seeing this ceremonie. 3 May. A young man preach'd, going chaplain with Sir Jo. Wi burn. Governor of Bombay in the East Indies. 7. I was in Westminster Hall when Oates, v/ho had made such a stir in the kingdom, on his revealing a Plot of the Papists, and alarm'd several Parliaments, and had occasioned the execution of divers Priests, Noblemen, &c. was tried for perjurie ^^t the King's Bench ; but being very tedious, I did not endeavour to see the issue, considering that it would be published. Aboundance of Roman Catholics were in the Hall in expectation of the most gratefuU conviction and ruine of a •jerson who had ben so obnoxious to them, and, as I verily believe, had don much mischiefe and greate injury to several by his violent and ill-grounded proceedings ; whilst he was at first so unreasonably blowne up and encouraged, that his insolence was no longer sufferable. Mr. Roger L'Estrange (a gentleman whom I had long known, and a person of excellent parts abating some affectations) appearing first against the Dissenters in several Tracts, had now for some yeares turn'd his style against those whom (by way of hateful distinction) they call'd Whiggs and Trimmers, under the title of Observator, which came out 3 or 4 days every weeke, in which sheets, under pretence to serve the Church of England, he gave suspicion of gratifying another party, by several passages which rather kept up animosities than appeas'd them, especialy now that nobody gave the least occasion.^ 10. The Scots valueing themselves exceedingly to have ben the first Parliament call'd by his Majesty, gave the Excise and Costomes to him and his successors forever; the D. of Queensberry making eloquent speeches, and especialy minding them of a speedy suppression of those late desperate Field-Conventiclers who had done such unheard-of assassinations. In the meane time elections for the ensueing Parlia- ment in England were thought to be very indirectly carried on in most places. God grant a better issue of it than some expect ! 16. Titus Oates was sentenced to be whipped and pilloried with the utmost severity. 21 May. I din'd at my Lord Privy Scale's with Sir William Dug- dale, Garter King at Armes, author of the Monasticon and other learned workes : he told me he was 82 yeares of age, and had his sight » In the first Dutch war, whilst Mr. Evelyn was one of the Commissioners for sick and woundc.l, Mr. L'Estrange in his Gazette mentioned the barbarous usage of the Dutch prisoner! ©fwar; Mr. Evel>m wrote him a very spirited letter, desiring that the Dutch Ambassador (who was then m England) and his friends would visit the prisoners, and examine their pro»l- nooM : and he dcsir'd Mr. L'Estrange would publish nis vindication in his next number. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 47^ And memory perfect.* There was shewn a draught of the exact shape and dimensions of the Crowne the Queenc had been crowned withall, together with the Jewells and pearles ; their weight and value, which amounted to 100,658 sterling, attested at the foote of the paper by the jeweller and goldsmith who sett them. 22. In the morning I went with a French gentleman, and my Lord Privy Scale, to the House of Lords, where we were plac'd by his lord- ship next the Bar, just below the Bishops, very commodiously both for hearing and seeing. After a short space came in the Queenc and Princesse of Denmark, and stood next above the Archbishops, at the side of the House on the right hand of the throne. In the interim divers of the Lords, who had not finish'd before, took the Test and usual Oathes, so that her Majesty, the Spanish and other Ambassadors, who stood behind the throne, heard the Pope and worship of the Virgin Mary, &c. renounc'd very decently, as likewise the prayers which fol- low'd, standing all the while. Then came in the King, the Crowne on his head, and being seated, the Commons were introduced, and the House being full, he drew forth a paper containing his speech, which he read distinctly enough, to this effect : ' That he resolv'd to call a Parliament from the moment of his brother^s decease, as the best meanes to settle all the concernes of the Nation, so as to be most easy and happy to himselfe and his subjects ; that he would confirme what- ever he had said in his declaration at the first Council concerning his opinion of the principles of the Church of England, for their loyaltie, and would defend and support it, and preserve its government as by law now establish'd ; that, as he would invade no man's property, so he would never depart from his owne prerogative ; and as he had ventured his life in defence of the Nation, so he would proceede to do still ; that, having given this assurance of his care of our Religion (his word was your Religion) and Property (which he had not said by chance but solemnly), so he doubted not of suitable returnes of his subjects duty and kindnesse, especialy as to settling his Revenue ^^^/'Mor the many weighty necessities of government, which he would not suffer to be pre- carious'; that some might possibly suggest that it were better to feede and supply him from time to time only, out of their inclination to fre- quent Parliaments, but that that would be a very improper method 0 S^e with him, since the best way to engage him to --te often™ d he alwavs to use him well, and therefore he expected their compliance treasonous declaration he had publisnea, wniLu . Sir Isaac Heard, .he present Garter Kinga, a™, is about .h. sa.. ag^ a»...^... possession of his faculties (1816). 478 J4EET1NG AND MEMBERS OF THE HOUSE OF' PARLIAMENT. to them, and that he should take the best care he could it should meete with the reward it deserv'd, not questioning the Parliament's zeale and readinesse to assist him as he desir'd ; at which there follow'd another Vive le Rot, and so his Majesty retir'd. So soone as the Commons were return'd and had put themselves into a grand Committee, they immediately put the question, and unanimously voted the Revenue to his Majesty for life. Mr. Seymour made a bold speech against many Elections, and would have had those members who (he pretended) were obnoxious, to withdraw, till they had clcar'd the matter of their being legally return'd ; but no one seconded him. The truth is, there were many of the new members whose Elections and Returns were universally censur'd, many of them being persons of no condition or interest in the Nation, or places for which they serv'd, especially in Devon, Cornwall, Norfolk, &c. said to have ben recom- mended by the Court and from the effect of the new charters changing the electors. It was reported that Lord Bath carried down with him [into Cornwall] no fewer than 1 5 charters, so that some call'd him the Prince Elector : whence Seymour told the House in his speech that ii this was digested, they might introduce what religion and lawes they pleas'd, and that tho' he never gave heed to the feares and jealousies of the people before, he now was really apprehensive of Popery. By the printed Hst of Members of the House 505 there did not appeare to be above 135 who had ben in former Parliaments, especialy that lately held at Oxford. In the Lords House Lord Newport made an exception against two or three young Peeres, who wanted some moneths, and some only four or five dales of being of age. The Popish Lords who had ben sometime before releas'd from their confinement about the Plot, were now discharg'd of their impeach- ment, of which I gave Lord Arundel of Wardour joy. Gates, who had but two dayes before ben pilloried at severall places and whipt at the carts taile from Newgate to Aldgate, was this day plac'd on a sledge, being not able to go by reason of so late scourging, and dragg'd from prison to T) bu\i, and whipt againe all the way, which some thought to be very severe and extraordinary ; but if he was guilty of the perjuries, and so of the death of many innocents, as I feare he was, his punishment was but what he deserv'd. I chanc'd to pass just as execution was doing on him. A strange revolution ! Note : there was no speech made by the Lord Keeper [Bridgeman] after his Majesty, as usual. It was whisper'd he would not be long in that situation, and many believe the bold Cheif Justice Jefferies, who was made Baron of Wem in Shropshire, and who went thorough stitch in that tribunal, stands fair for that office. I gave him joy the morning before of his new honour, he having always ben very civil to me. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 479 24 May. We had hitherto not any raine for many moneths, so as the caterpillars had already devour'd all the winter fruite thro' the whole land, and even kill'd severall greater old trees. Such two winters and summers I had never knowne. 4 June. Came to visite and take leave of me Sir Gab. Sylvius, now going Envoy extraordinary into Denmark, with his Secretary and Chap- laine, a Frenchman, who related the miserable persecution of the Pro- testants in France ; not above 10 Churches left them, and those also threaten'd to be demolish'd ; they were commanded to christen their children within 24 houres after birth, or else a Popish Priest was to be call'd, and then the infant brought up in Popery. In some places they were 30 leagues from any minister or opportunity of worship. This persecution had displeas'd the most industrious part of the nation, and dispers'd those into Swisse, Burgundy, Holland, Germany, Denmark, England, and the Plantations. There were with Sir Gabriel, his lady, Sir Wm. Godolphin and sisters, and my Lord Godolphin's little son, my charge. I brought them to the water side where Sir Gabriel em- bark'd, and the rest return'd to London. 14. There was now certaine intelligence of the Duke of Monmouth landing at Lyme in Dorsetshire, and of his having set up his standard as King of England. I pray God deliver us from the confusion which these beginnings threaten ! Such a dearth for want of raine was never in my memory. 17 The Duke landed with but 150 men, but the whole Kingdom was alarm'd, fearing that the disaffected would joyn them many of the train'd bands flocking to him. At his landing he publish d a declara- tion, charging his Majesty with usurpation and several horrid crimes on pretence of his owne title, and offering to call a free Parliament This declaration was order'd to be burnt by the hangnmn the Duke proclaim'd a trayto-r, and a reward of ^.5,000 to any man who should M tis time the words engraved on the --ument in London, i^ti- mating that the Papists fir'd the Citty, were erased and cut out. The exceeding drowth still continues. 18. I received a warrant to send out a horse with 12 dayes provi "'Ts. We had now plentifull raine after 2 yeares excessive drowth and '-T:^ in Scotland and executed, ^^^^^^^^ 2 July. No consiierable account ^^^^ \^°^P,^j^^\'," J, , smart Duke of Monmouth, tho' greate ^[^'/I'l^^^^^^ skirmish, but he would not be provokd to come to an e still kept in the fastnesses. . Dangerfield whipp'd, Hke Gates, for P^'P''^' ^ext day 8 July Came news of Monmouth's utter defeate, ana 48o DEFEAT OF MONMOUTH ; HIS CAPTURE, AND MISERABLE STATE of his being taken by Sir William Portman and Lord Lumley with the militia of their counties. It seemes the horse, commanded by Lord Grey, being newly rais'd and undisciplin'd, were not to be brought in so short a time to endure the fire, which expos'd the foote to the King's, so as when Monmouth had led the foote in greate silence and order, thinking to surprize Lieutenant General Lord Feversham newly en- camp'd and given him a smart charge, interchanging both greate and small shot, the horse, breaking their owne ranks, Monmouth gave it over, and fled with Grey, leaving their party to be cut in pieces to the number of 2000. The whole number reported to be above 8,000, the King's but 2,700. The slaine were most of them Mendip-mmers, who did greate execution with their tooles, and sold their lives very dearely, whilst their leaders flying were pursu'd and taken the next morning, not far from one another. Monmouth had gone 16 miles on foote, changing his habite for a poore coate, and was found by Lord Lumley in a dry ditch cover'd with fern-brakes, but without sword, pistol, or any weapon, and so might have pass'd for some countryman, his beard beiilg grown so long and so grey as hardly to be known, had not his George discover'd him, which was found in his pocket. 'Tis said he trembl'd exceedingly all over, not able to speake. Grey was taken not £ar from him. Most of his party were anabaptists and poore cloth- workers of the country, no gentleman of account being come in to him. The arch-boutefeu Ferguson Matthews, &c. were not yet found. The /5.000 to be given to whoever should bring Monmouth in, was to be distributed among the militia by agreement between Sir William Port- man and Lord Lumley. The battail ended, some words, first in jest, then in passion, pass'd between Sherrington Talbot (a worthy gentle- man, son to Sir John Talbot, and who had behav'd himselfe very hand- somely) and one Capt. Love, both commanders of the militia, as to whose souldiers fought best, both drawing their swords and passing at one another. Sherrington was wounded to death on the spot, to the greate regret of all who knew him. He was Sir John's only son. 9 July. Just as I was coming into the lodgings at White-hall, a little before dinner, my Lord of Devonshire standing very neere his Majesty's bed-chamber doore in the lobby, came Col. Culpeper, and in a rude manner looking my Lord in the fiice, asked whether this was a time and place for excluders to appeare ; my Lord at first tooke Httle notice of what he said, knowing him to be a hot-headed fellow, but he reiterating it, my Lordask'd Culpeper whether he meant him ; he said, yes, he meant his Lordship. My Lord told him he was no excluder (as indeed he was not) ; the other affirming it againe, my Lord told him he lied, on which Culpeper struck him a box on the eare, which my Lord return'd and fell'd him. They were soone parted, Culpeper was seiz'd, and his Majesty, who was all the while in his bed-chamber, jrder'd him to be carried to the Green Cloth Officer, who sent him to the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^gj Marshalsea, as he deserv'd. My Lord of Devonshire had nothing said to him. I supped this night at Lambeth at my old rriend's, Mr. Ehas Ash- mole's, with my Lady Clarendon, the Bishop of St. Asaph, and Dr Tenison, where we were treated at a greate feast. lo July. The Count of Castel Mellor, that greate favourite and prime minister of Alphonso, late King of Portugal, after several yeeres banishment, being now receiv'd to grace and call'd home by Don Pedro the present King, as having ben found a person of the greatest integrity after all his sufferings, desir'd me to spend part of this day with him, and assist him in a collection of books and other curiosities, which he would carry with him into Portugal. Mr. Hussey, a young gentleman who made love to my late deare child, but whom she could not bring herselfe to answer in affection, died now of the same cruel disease, for which I was extreamly sorry, because he never enjoy'd himselfe after my daughter's decease, nor was I averse to the match, could she have overcome her disinclination. 15. I went to see Dr. Tenison's Library [in St. Martin's.] Monmouth was this day brought to London and examin'd before the King, to whom he made greate submission, acknowledged his seduction by Ferguson the Scot, whom he nam'd the bloudy villain. He was sent to the Tower, had an interview with his late Dutchesse, whom he receiv'd coldly, having liv'd dishonestly with the Lady Henrietta Went- worth for two yeares. He obstinately asserted his conversation with that debauch'd woman to be no sin, whereupon, seeing he could not be persuaded to his last breath, the divines who were sent to assist him thought not fit to administer the Holy Communion to him. For the rest of his faults he profess'd greate sorrow, and so died without any apparent feare ; he would not make use of a cap or other circumstance, but Iving downe bid the fellow do his office better than to the late Lord Russell, and gave him gold ; but the wretch made five chopps before he had his head off; which so incens'd the people, that had he not been guarded and got away, they would have torn him to pieces. The Duke made no speech on the scaffold (which was on Tower Hill) but gave a paper containing not above 5 or 6 hnes, for the King, in which he disclaims all title to the Crown, acknowledges that the late King, his father, had indeede told him he was but his base sonn, and so desir'd his Majesty to be kind to his wife and children This rela- tion I had from Dr. Tenison (Rector of St. Martin's), who ..th th^^ Bishops of Ely and Bath and Wells, were sent to him by his Majesty, and were at the execution. , . <- .i. Thus ended this quondam Duke, darling ot h.s ff ^-^^^V dan- bemg extreamly handsome and adroit ; excellent sou d,e and dan car, I favourite of the people, of an easy <'f ™^'f„''4ke ^ seduc'd bv crafty knaves who would have set h,m up on^y to make 482 THE DUCHESS OF MONMOUTH, AND HER LATE HUSBAND. property, and took the opportunity of the King being of another re» ligion, to gather a party of discontented men. He fail'd & perish'd. He was a lovely person, had a virtuous and excellent lady that brought him greate riches, and a second dukedom in Scotland. He was Master of the Horse, General of the King his fatlier's Army, Gen- tlemen of the Bed-chamber, Knight of the Garter, Chancellor of Cam- bridge, in a word, had accumulations without end. See what ambition and want of principles brought him to ! He was beheaded on Tuesday 14th July. His mother, whose name was Barlow, daughter of some very meane creatures, was a beautiful strumpet, whom I had often scene at Paris ; she died miserably without any thing to bury her ; yet this Perkin had ben made to believe that the King had married her ; a monstrous and ridiculous forgerie ; and to satisfy the world of the iniquity of the report, the King his father (if his father he really was, for he most resembl'd one Colonel Sydney,' who was familiar with his mother) publickly and most solemnly renounc'd it, to be so enter'd in the Council Booke some yeares since, with all the Privy Councillor's attestation.'' Had it not pleas'd God to dissipate this attempt in the beginning, there would in all appearance have gather'd an irresistible force which would have desperately proceeded to the ruine of the Church and Government, so general was the discontent and expectation of the opportunity. For my owne part I look'd upon this deliverance as most signal. Such an inundation of phanatics and men of impious principles must needs have caus'd universal disorder, cru-elty, injustice, rapine, sacrilege, and confusion, an unavoidable civil war and misery without end. Blessed be God the knot was happily broken, and a faire prospect of tranquillity for the future if we reforme, be thankfull, and make a right u.se of this mercy. 18 July. I went to see the muster of the 6 Scotch and English re- giments whom the Prince of Orange had lately sent to his Majesty out of Holland upon this rebellion, but which were now returning, there ^ Mr. Robert Sidney, commonly called handsome Sidney, related to the Earl of Leicester of that name. ■ Ross, tutor to the Duke of Monmouth, proposed to Bishop Cozens to sign a certificate of the King's marriage to Mrs. Barlow, though her own name was Walters ; this the Bishop refused. She was born of a gentleman's family in Wales, but having little means and less grace, came to London to make her fortune. Algernon Sidney, then a Colonel in Cromwell's army, had agreed to give her 50 broad pieces (as he told the Duke of York) ; but being ordered h.-isnly away with his regiment, he missed his bargain. She went into Holland, where she fell mto the hands of his brother Colonel Robert Sidney, who kept her for some time, till the King hearnig of her, got her from him. On which the Colonel was heard to say, Let who will have her she is already sped ; and after being with the King she was so soon with child that the world had no cause to doubt whose child it was, and the rather that when he grew to be r man he very much resembled the Colonel both in stature and countenance, even to a wortoc /hi • the King owned the child. In the King's absence she behaved so loosely, mat on h.s return from his escape at Worcester, he would have no further commerce with her, iw sue became a common prostitute at Paris. Life of King James IL vol. L 491. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 483 having ben no occasion for their use. They were all excellently clad and well discipliu'd, and wereincamped on Blackhcath with their tents: the King and Oueene canie to see them exercise, and the manner ol their incampment, which was very neate and magnificent. By a grosse mistake of the Secretary of his Majesty's forces, it had ben order'd that they should be quartered in private houses, contrary to an Act of ParUment, but on my informing his Majesty timely of it, it was prevented. The two horsemen which my son and myselfe sent into the county troopes, were now come home, after a moneth's being out to our greate charge. 20. The Trinity Company met this day, which should have ben on the Monday after Trinity, but was put off by reason of the Royal Char- ter being so large that it could not be ready before. Some immunities were super-added. Mr. Pepys, Secretary to the Admiralty, was a second time chosen Master. There were present the Duke of Grafton, Lord Dartmouth, Master of the Ordnance, the Commissioners of the Navy, and brethren of the Corporation. We went to Church according to costome, and then took barge to the Trinity House, in London, where we had a great dinner, above 80 at one table. 7 Aug. I went to see Mr. Wats, keeper of the Apothecaries Garden of Simples at Chelsea, where there is a collection of innumerable rarities of that sort particulady, besides many rare annuals, the tree bearing jesuits bark, which had don such wonders in quartan agues. What was very ingenious was the subterranean heate, conveyed by a stove under the conservatory, which was all vaulted with brick, so as he has the doores and windowes open in the hardest frosts, secludmg only the snow. , j 1 » 15. Came to visite us Mr. Boscawen with my Lord Godolphms little son, with whose education hither his father had intrusted me. 27. My daughter Elizabeth died of the small pox, soon after having married a young man, nephew of Sir John Tippett, sun-eyor of the Navy, and one of the Commissioners. The 30th she was buried in the Church at Deptford. Thus in lesse than six moneths were ^ve deprived of two children for our unworthinesse and causes best knowne to God whom I beseeche from the bottome of my heart that he wil give^us grace to make that right use of all these chastisements, that .e m^^^ become better, and entirely submitt in all thmgs to his mfimte wise ""fsep; Lord "clarendon (Lord Privy Scale) wrote to let me know tha't tl^Kin^tin?^^^^^^^ tl send him Lord was also pleas'd to nominate me one of the ^'"f^'^^^^^^^ the office of Privy Scale during his 484 ST. GEORGE'S HALL. CHIEF JUSTICE JEFFERIES. MRS. GRAHAM. Sir Henry Capel's Pt Kew\ where his Majesty receiving me with extra- ordinary Undnesse, ' l^'isa u h>s hand. I told him how sensible I was of his Majesty's gracious ic^vour to me, that I would endeavour to serve him with all sincerity, diligence, and loyalty, not more out of my duty than inclination. He said he doubted not of it, and was glad he had the opportunity to shew me the kindnesse he had for me. After this came aboundance of greate men to give me joy. 6 Sunday. I went to prayer in the Chapell. and heard Dr. Standish. The second sermon was preach'd by Dr. Creighton, on i Thess. 4, 1 1, persuading to unity and peace, and to be mindfuU of our owne busi- nesse, according to the advice of the 4postle. Ther. I went to heare a Frenchman who preached before the King and Queene in that splendid Chapell next St. George's Hall. Their Majesties going to masse, I with- drew to consider the stupendous painting of the Hall, which, both for the art and invention, deserve the inscription in honour of the painter, Signior Verrio. The history is Edward the 3d receiving the Black Prince, coming towards him in a Roman triumph. The whole roofe is the history of St. George. The throne, the carvings, &c. are incomparable, and I think equal to any, and in many circumstances exceeding any, I have scene abroad. I din'd at Lord Sunderland's, with (amongst others) Sir William Soames, design'd Ambassador to Constantinople. About 6 o'clock came Sir Dudley and his brother Roger North, and brought the greate scale from my Lord Keeper, who died the day before at his house in Oxfordshire. The King went immediately to Council ; every body guessing who was most likely to succeed this greate officer; most believing it could be no other than my Lord Chief Justice Jef- feries, who had so vigorously prosecuted the late rebells, and was now gone the Western circuit, to punish the rest that were secur'd in the several counties, and was now neere upon his returne. I tooke my leave of his Majesty, who spake very graciously to me, and supping that night at Sir S. P^ox's, I promis'd to dine there the next day. 15 Sept. I accompanied Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth, whither his Majesty was going the first time since his coming to the Crowne, to see in what state the fortifications were. We tooke coach and six horses, late after dinner, yet got to Bagshot (26 m.) that night Whilst supper was making ready I went and made a visit to Mrs. Graham, some time maid of honour to the Queene Dowager, now wife to James Graham, Esq. of the privy purse to the King; her house being a walke in the forest, within a little of a quarter mile from Bag- shot towne. Very importunate she was that I would sup, and abide there that night, but being oblig'd by my companion, I return'd to our mn, after she had shew'd me her house, which was very commodious and well furnish'd, as she was an excellent housewife, a prudent and virtuous lady. There is a parke lull of red deere about it. Her eldest THE DTARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 485 son was now sick there of the small-pox, but in a likely way of re:o ^ y and other of her children run about, and among the infected, wi ; J, she said she let them do on purpose that they might whilst young pass that fatal disease she fancied they were to undergo one time or other, and that this would be for the best : the severity of this cruell disease so lately in my poore family confirming much of what she affirmed. 16. The next morning setting out early, we ariv'd soon enough at Winchester to waite on the King, who was lodg'd at the Dean's (Dr. Meggot). I found very few with him besides my Lords Feversham, Arran, Newport, and the Bishop of Bath and Wells. His Majesty was discoursing with the Bishops concerning miracles, and what strange things the Saludadors ' would do in Spaine, as by creeping into heated ovens without hurt, and that they had a black crosse in the roofe of their mouthes, but yet were commonly notorious and profane wretches ; upon which his Majesty further said, that he was so ex- treamly difficult of miracles, for feare of being impos'd upon, that if he should chance to see one himselfe, without some other witness, he should apprehend it a delusion of his senses. Then they spake of the boy who was pretended to have a wanting leg restor'd him, so confi- dently asserted by Fr. de Sta. Clara and others. To all which the Bishop added a greate miracle happening in Westminster to his cer- taine knowledge, of a poor miserably sick and decrepit child (as I remember long kept unbaptiz'd), who immediately on his baptism recover'd ; as also of the salutary effect of K. Charles his Majesty's father's blood, in healing one that was blind. There was something said of the second sight happening to some persons, especially Scotch ; upon which his Majesty, and I think Lord Arran, told us that Mons a French nobleman, lately here m England, seeing the late Duke of Monmouth come into the play-house at London, suddenly cried out to somebody sitting in the same box, Voi/A Monsieur comme il enire sans tete. Afterwards his Majesty spoke of some reliques that had effected strange cures, particularly a piece of our Bl. Saviour's Crosse, and heal'd a gentleman s rotten nose by onely touching ; and speaking of the golden crosse and chame taken out of the coffin of St. Edward the Confessor at Westminster, by 1 Asto that of the Saludador(of which Hkewise ^ -^^/^^^^^^^^^ Ambassador at Madrid, has told me many hke wonders) PcPy.^ P^^^^^^ \^ Saludadors, and being extreamly inquisitive of the truth of these V^^^^^^^f^lt^ make found a very famous one at last, to whom he offered ^ f^"/'^^^^" ingeniously told a trial of the oven, or any other thing of that b^fo^^'^™^ '^^.la „ot deceive him, and him that finding he was a more than "'^^'nary cu^^^^^^^^^^ ^^at what they pretended wa. so acknowledged that he could do none "^^^^^X^'l^^,^ superstitious people werceas.ly all a cheate. which he would easily discover, though the poo e p ^^^^.^^ ^^^^^ .^^^ imposed upon ; yet have these rmposters an allowance of the b P ^^^^^^^ linss. This Mr. Pepys affirmed to me, but, said he, I did not conce Majesty, who «o solemnly told what they pretended to do. J. 4^6 CATHOLICISM OF THE LATE KING. THE NEW PALACE one of the singing men, who, as the scaffolds were taking dowji after his Majesty's coronation, espying a hole in the tomb, and something glisten, put his hand in and brought it to the Deane, and he to the King ; his Majesty began to put the Bishop in mind how earnestly the late King (his brother) call'd upon him, during his agonie, to take out what he had in his pocket. I had thought, said the King, it had ben for some keys, which might lead to some cabinet that his Majesty would have me secure ; but, says he, you well remember that I found nothing in any of his pockets but a crosse of gold, and a few insignificant papers ; and thereupon he shew'd us ihe crosse, and was pleas'd to put it into my hand. It was of gold, about three inches long, having on one side a crucifix enamell'd and emboss'd, the rest was grav'd and gar- nish'd with goldsmiths' work, and two pretty broad table amethists (as I conceiv'd), and at the bottom a pendant pearle ; within was inchas'd a Httle fragment, as was thought, of the true Crosse, and a Latine in- scription in gold and Roman letters.' More company coming in, this discourse ended. I may not forget a resolution which his Majesty made, and had a little before enter'd upon it at the Council Board at Windsor or White-hall, that the Negroes in the Plantations should all be baptiz'd, exceedingly declaiming against that impiety of their masters prohibiting it, out of a mistaken opinion that they would be ipso facto free ; but his Majesty persists in his resolution to have them christen'd, V hich piety the Bishop blessed him for. I went out to see the new Palace the late King had began, and brought almost to the covering. It is plac'd on the side of the hill where formerly stood the old Castle. It is a stately fabric, of three sides and a corridor, all built of brick, and cornish'd, windows and columns at the break and entrance of free-stone. It was intended for a hunting-house when his Majesty should come to these parts, and has an incomparable prospect. I believe there had already been ;^2o,ooo and more expended, but now his Majesty did not seeme to encourage the finishing it, at least for a while. Hence I went to see the cathedral, a reverend pile, and in good re- paire. There are still the coffins of the six Saxon Kings, whose bones had ben scatter'd by the sacrilegious Rebells of 1 641, in expectation, I suppose, of finding some valuable reliques, and afterwards gather'd up againe and put into new chests, which stand above the stalls of the Choir. 17 Sept. Early next morning we went to Portsmouth, something before his Majesty ariv'd. We found all the way full of people, the women in their best dress, in expectation of seeing the King pass by, which he did riding on horseback a good part of the way. We found the Maior and Aldermen with their mace, and in their formalities, 1 There is a pamplilet giving an account of this finding and presenting to the King, und«i the name of George Tay'our ; but his name was Henry Keepe. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 487 Standing at the entrance of the fort, a mile on this side of the tcwne, where the Maior made a speech to the K'lncr, and then the guns of the fort were fired, as were those of the garrison so soone as the King was come into Portsmouth. All the souldiers (neere 3000) were drawn up, and lining the streetes and platforme to God's-house (the name of the Governor's house), where, after he had view'd the new fortifications and ship-yard, his Majesty was entertain'd at a magnificent dinner by Sir . . Slingsby the Lieut. Governor, all the gentlemen in his traine setting down at table with him, which I also had don had I not ben before engag'd to Sir Robert Holmes, Governor of the Isle of Wight, to dine with him at a private house, where likewise we had a very sumptuous and plentiful repast of excellent venison, fowle, fish, and fruit. After dinner I went to wait on his Majesty againe, who was pulling on his bootes in the Towne-hall, adjoyning the house where he din'd, and then having saluted some ladys, who came to kiss his hand, he tooke horse for Winchester, whither he returned that night. This hall is artificially hung round with armes of all sorts, like the Hall and Keep at Windsor. I went hence to see the ship-yard and dock, the fortifications, and other things. Portsmouth when finished will be very strong, and a noble key. There were now 32 men of war in the harbour. 1 was invited by Sir R. Beach the Commissioner, where, after a greate supper, Mr. Secre- tary and myselfe lay that night, and the next morning set out for Guild- ford, where we ariv'd in good hour, and so the day after to London. 1 had twice before ben at Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight, &c many yeares since. I found this part of Hampshire ^javely wooded, espe- cialy about the house and estate of Col. Norton who tho now m being having formerly made his peace by means of Col Legg, was orm rly a very fierce commander in the first Rebellion. His house is large, and standing low, on the road from Winchester to Portsmouth By what f observ'd in this journey, is that infinite f - ^^^"^'^[^ gravity, and greate understanding and experience ^"^^'^ llajesl;,,that! cannot but p^^^^^^^^^^ National Religion. Clarendon for Lieutenant of Ire- 30. The Commission of Lord uarenaon land was seal'd this day. . 1^ 1^1 expression 2 Oct. Having a letter sent me b)' Mn PjPV; , I, have at the foote of it, ' I have something to ^h^w >ou n J , another time,' and that 1 would not f^'l<= '° ^ "f^^ ' consider- went. After dinner he had me and Mr. persecu- able merchant, whose father had °ut °f Flander on ^^p tion of the Duke of Alva) into a private roome, 488 THE KING ON THE RELIGIOUS BELIEF OF HIS LATE BROTHER, lately alone with his Majesty, and upon some occasion of speaking con- cerning my late Lord Arlington dying a Roman Catholic, who had all along scem'd to profess himseKe a Protestant, taken all the tests, &c till the day (I think) of his death, his Majesty sayd that as to his in- clinations he had known him long wavering, but from feare of looseing his places he did not think it convenient to declare himself. There are, says the King, those who believe the Church of Rome gives dispensa- tions for going to church, and many like things, but that is not so ; for if that might have ben had, he himselfe had most reason to make use of it. Indeede, he said, as to some matri?nonial cases, there are now and then dispensations, but hardly in any cases else. This familiar dis- course encourag'd Mr. Pepys to beg of his Majesty, if he might ask it without offence, and for that his Majesty could not but observe how it was whisper'd among many, whether his late Majesty had ben re- concil'd to the Church of Rome ; he againe humbly besought his Majesty to pardon his presumption if he had touch'd upon a thing which did not befit him to looke into : the King ingenuously toid him tliat he both was and died a Roman Catholic, and that he had not long since declar'd it was upon some pohtic and state reasons, best known to himselfe (meaning the King his brother) but that he was of that persuasion : he bid him follow him into his closet, where opening a cabinet, he shew'd him two papers, containing about a quarter of a sheete, on both sides written, in the late King's owne hand, severall arguments opposite to the doctrine of the Church of England, charging her with heresy, novelty and the fanaticism of other Protestants, the chief whereof was, as I remember, our refusing to acknowledge the Primncy and Infallibility of the Church of Rome ; how impossible it was that so many ages should never dispute it, till of late ; how un- Hkcly our Saviour would leave his Church without a visible head and guide to resort to, during his absence ; with the like usual topics ; so well penn'd as to the discourse as did by no means seeme to me to have ben put together by the late King, yet written all with his owne hand, blotted and interlin'd, so as, if indeede it was not given him by some priest, they might be such arguments and reasons as had ben incul- cated from time to time, and here recollected ; and in the conclusion shewing his looking on the Protestant Religion (and by name the Church of England) to be without foundation, and consequently false and unsafe. When his Majesty had shewn him these originals, he was pleas'd to lend him the copies of those two papers, attested at the bot- tom in 4 or 5 lines, under his owne hand. These were the papers I saw and read. This nice and curious pas- sage 1 thought fit to set downe. Tho' all the arguments and objections were altogether wcake, and have a thousand times ben answer'd by our Divmcs ; they are such as their Priests insinuate among their proselites, as if nothing were Catholiq but the Church of Rome, no salvation out THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 489 ?f that, no reformation siifferable, bottoming all their errors on St, Peters successors unerrable dictatorship, but proving nothing with any reason, or taking notice of any objection which could be made against it. Here all was taken for granted, and upon it a resolution and pre- ference implied. I was heartily sorry to see all this, tho' it was no other than was to be suspected, by his late Majesty's too greate indifference, neglect, and course of life, that he had ben perverted, and for secular respects onely profess'd to be of another beliefe, and thereby giving greate advantage to our adversaries, both the Court and generaly the youth and greate persons of the Nation becoming dissolute and highly profane. God was incens'd to make his reign very troublesome and unprosperous, by warrs, plagues, fires, losse of reputation by an universal neglect of the publique for the love of a voluptuous and sensual Ufe, which a vicious Court had brought into credit. 1 think of it with sor- row and pity when I consider of how good and debonaire a nature that unhappy Prince was, what opportunities he had to have made himselfe the most renown'd King that ever sway'd the British scepter, had he ben firm to that Church for which his martyr d and blessed father sul- fer'd ; and had he ben gratefull to Almighty God, who so miraculously restored him, with so excellent a Religion ; had he endeavour'd to owne and propagate it as he should have don, not onely for the good of his Kingdom, but of all the Reformed Churches in Christendom, now weaken\i and neere ruin'd thro' our remissnesse and suffermg them to be suplanted, persecuted and destroyed, as in France, which we tooke no notice of. The consequence of this time will shew, and wish it may proceed no further. The emissaries and instruments of the Church of Rome will never rest till they have crush'd Church of England as knowing that alone to be able to cope with them, t^^^ ^ never answer her fairly, but lie aboundantly open the irresistible force of her arguments, antiquity and purity of .f^ to the consummation of the world 1 have '"""'"^5^° confirm me in this opinion, which I Pepys, in the mean a^o the d^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ,„/L' and tnose papers, as I do ^''^^'^'""S'y . ,j concealment genuous profession of what h>s own Rehg on .s he, upon any politic accounts, so I ' „nd that he makes a honest nature, one on whose wo.d one may re , and th^ ^^^^^^^^^ ^ conscience of what he promises, to P'^rf™^ . „hen it shall hope that the Church of England ">^>; f .^t is peculiarly please God to open his eyes and urne h.s heart foj^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ in the Lord's hands) to flourish also. In an evems 490 MY PORTRAIT PAINTED BY KNELLER. SWALLOWFIELD HOUSE. of the Church of England, it is certainely, of all the Christian profeS' sions on the earth, the most primitive, apostolical and excellent. 8 Oct. I had my picture drawn this week by the famous Kneller. 14. I went to London about finishing my lodgings at White-hall. 15. Being the King's birth day, there was a solemne ball at Court, and before it musiq of instruments and voices. At the musiq I hap- pen'd by accident to stand the very next to the Queene and the King, who talk'd with me about the musick. 18. The King was now building all that range from East to West by the Court and Garden to the streete, and making a new Chapel for the Queene, whose lodgings were to be in this new building, as also a new Council chamber and offices next the South end of the Banquetting house. I returned home next morning to London. 22. I accompanied my Lady Clarendon to her house at Swallow- field in Berks, dining by the way at Mr. Graham's lodge at Bagshot ; the house, new repair'd and capacious enough for a good family, stands in a Park. Hence we went to Swallowfield ; this house is after the antient build- ing of honourable gentlemen's houses, when they kept up antient hos- pitality, but the gardens and waters as elegant as 'tis possible to make a flat, by art and Industrie, and no meane expence, my lady being so extraordinarily skill'd in the flowery part, and my lord in diligence of planting ; so that I have hardly scene a seate which shews more tokens of it than what is to be found here, not only in the delicious and rarest fruits of a gar'len, but in those innumerable timber trees in the ground about the seate, to the greatest ornament and benefit of the place. There is one orchard of 1000 golden, and other cider pippins ; walks and groves of elms, limes, oaks, and other trees. The garden is so beset with all manner of sweete shrubbs, that it perfumes the aire. The distribution also of the quarters, walks, and parterres, is excellent. The nurseries, kitchin garden full of the most desireable plants ; two very noble Orangeries well furnished ; but above all, the canall and fishponds, the one fed with a white, the other with a black running water, fed by a quick and swift river, so well and plentifully stor'd with fish, that for pike, carp, breame and tench, I never saw any thing approching it. We had at every meale carp and pike of size fit for the table of a Prince, and what added to the delight was to see the hundreds taken by the drag, out of which, the cooke standing by, we pointed out what we had most mind to, and had carp that would have ben worth at London twenty shillings a piece. The waters are flagg'd about with Calami/s aromaticus, with which my lady has hung a closet, that retains the smell very perfectly. There is also a certaine sweete willow and other exotics : also a very fine bowling-greene, meadow, pasture, and wood ; in a word, all that can render a country seate delightful There is besides a well furnish'd library in the house. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 49I 26. We return'd to London, having ben treated with ali sorts of cheere and noble freedom by that most rehgious and vertuous lady. She was now preparing to go for Ireland with her husband, made Lord Deputy, and went to this country-house and antient seate of her father and family,^ to set things in order during her absence ; but never were good people and neighbours more concern'd than all the country (the poor especialy) for the departure of this charitable woman ; every one was in teares, and she as unwilling to part from them. There was amongst them a maiden of primitive life, the daughter of a poore labouring man, who had sustain'd her parents (sometime since dead) Dy her labour, and has for many years rcfus'd marriage, or to receive any assistance from the parish, besides the little hennitage my lady gives her rent-free ; she lives on foure pence a day, which she gets by spinning ; says she abounds and can give almes to others, living in greate humility and content, without any apparent affectation or singu- larity ; she is continualy working, praying or reading, gives a good account of her knowledge in religion, visites the sick ; is not in the least given to talke ; very modest, of a simple not unseemly behaviour ; of a comely countenance, clad very plaine, but cleane and tight. In sum, she appeares a saint of an extraordinary sort, in so religious a life as is seldom met with in villages now-a-daies. 27. I was invited to dine at Sir Ste. Fox's with my Lord Lieutenant, where was such a dinner for variety of all things as I had seldome scene, and it was so for the trial of a master cooke whom Sir Stephen had re- commended to go with his Lordship into Ireland ; there were all the dainties not onely of the season, but of what art could add, yenison plaine solid meate, fowle, bak'd and boil'd meates, banquet [desert J, &c. in exceeding plenty and exquisitely dress'd. There also dm d my Lord Ossory and Lady (the Duke of Beaufort's daughter), my Lady Treasurer, Lord Cornbery, &c. 28. At the Royal Society an urn full of bones was presented, dug up in an highway, whilst repairing it, in a field in Camberwell in W it was found intire with its cover, amongst many others, behevd to be truly Roman and antient. ^u^^;^^ h,^ h;?d Sir Richard Bullceley described to us a model of a chamot he had invented, which it was not possible to overthrow m 7" "^J^^" way it wLs drawn, giving us a wonderfull relat.on of what .t had Per form'd in that kindffor ease, expedition, and safety ; the e were some inconveniences yet to be rem^^^^^^^^^ "and ^pS orL^wythl^.o"; ers H ^ noise; almost intolerable. A remedy was to be sou^n inconveniences. , > She wa. daughter a.,d hei.s» o, W„. BacUhous.. Es,. : ^ -Oow of S„ W„ house, Bart. Collins's Peerage. 12 LORD CHAN. JEFFERIES. PERSECUTION OF FRENCH PROTEST ANTa 31. I din'd at our greate Lord Chancellor Jefferies, who us'd me with much respect. This was the late Chief Justice who had newly ben the Western Circuit to try the Monmouth conspirators, and had formerly don such severe justice amongst the obnoxious in West- minster Hall, for which his Majesty dignified him by creating him first a Baron, and now Lord Chancellor. He had some years past ben con- versant at Deptford ; is of an assur'd and undaunted spirit, and has serv'd the Court interest on all the hardiest occasions ; is of nature cruel and a slave of the Court. 3 Nov. The French persecution of the Protestants raging with the utmost barbarity, exceeded even what the very heathens us'd: innu- merable persons of the greatest birth and riches leaving all their earthly substance, and hardly escaping with their lives, dispersed thro' all the countries of Europe. The French tyrant abrogated the Edict of Nantes which had ben made in favour of them, and without any cause ; on a suddaine demolishing all their Churches, banishing, im- prisoning, and sending to the gallies all the ministers ; plundering the common people, and exposing them to all sorts of barbarous usage by souldiers sent to ruine and prey on them ; taking away their children ; forcing people to the Masse, and then executing them as relapsers ; they burnt their libraries, pillag'd their goods, eate up their fields and sub- stance, banish'd or sent the people to the gallies, and seiz'd on their estates. There had now ben number'd to passe thro' Geneva onely (and that by stealth, for all the usual passages were strictly guarded by sea and land) 40,000 towards Swisserland. In Holland, Denmark, and all about Germany, were dispcrs'd some hundred thousands ; besides those in England, where though multitudes of all degrees sought for shelter and wellcome as distressed Christians and Confessors, they found least encouragement, by a fatality of the times we were fallen into, and the uncharitable indifference of such as should have embrac'd them ; and I pray it be not laid to our charge. The famous Claude fled to Holland, AUix' and severall more came to London, and persons of greate estates came over, who had forsaken all. France was almost dispeopled, the bankers so broaken that the Tyrant's revenue was exceedingly dmiinish'd, manufactures ceas'd, and every body there, save the Jesu- itcs, abhorr'd what was don, nor did the Papists themselves approve it. What the further intention is time will shew, but doubtlesse portending some revolution. I was shew'd the harangue which the Bishop of Valentia on Rhone made in the name of the Cleargie, celebrating the French King, as if he was a God, for persecuting the poore Protestants, • Mr. Peter AlHx, a minister of the Reform'd Church at Charenton, came over with hi« Whole family, and met with great encouragement here. He was the author of several learned discourses m defence of the Christian Religion in general, and of Protestantism in particular. «.s eldest son John Peter Allix became D. D., and after passing through different preferments, WAS m 1730 made Dean of Ely, and died in 1758, and was bnried in his church of Castle »-*mps in Cambridgeshire. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 493 with this expression in it, ' That as his victory over heresy was greater * than all the conquests of Alexander and Csesar, it was but what was * wish'd in England ; and that God seem'd to raise the French King to * this power and magnanimous action, that he might be in capacity to ' assist in doing the same here.' This paragraph is very bold and re- markable : severall reflecting on Archbishop Usher's prophecy as now begun in France, and approching the orthodox in all other reform'^ churches. One thing was much taken notice of, that the Gazettes which were still constantly printed twice a weeke, informing us what was don all over Europe, never spake of this wonderfull proceeding in France, nor was any relation of it publish'd by any, save what private letters and the persecuted fugitives brought : whence this silence I list not to conjecture, but it appear'd very extraordinary in a Protestant countrie that we should know nothing of what Protestants suffer'd, whilst greate collections were made for them in forreine places, more hospitable and Christian to appearance. 5 Nov. It being an extraordinary wett morning, and myself indis- posed by a very greate rheume, I did not go to church, to my very greate sorrow, it being the first Gunpowder Conspiracy anniversary that had ben kept now these 80 yeares under a prince of the Roman religion. Bonfires were forbidden on this day ; what does this portend ! 9. Began the Parliament : the King in his speech required con- tinuance of a standing force instead of a militia, and indemnity and dispensation to Popish officers from the Test ; demands very unex- pected and unpleasing to the Commons. He also requir'd a supply of revenue, which they granted, but return'd no thanks to the Kmg for his speech, till farther consideration. 12. The Commons postpon'd finishing the bill for the supply, to consider the Test, and the Popish officers ; this was carried but by one voice. . , 14. I dined at Lambeth, my Lord Archbishop carrying me with him in his barge : there were my Lord Deputy of Iceland the Bp. of Ely, and St. Asaph, Dr. Sherlock, and other divines ; Sir William Hay- ward, Sir Paule Rycaut, &c , 20. The Parliament was adjourn'd to February, severall both of Lords and Commons excepting against some Passage of his Majesty s speech relating to the Test, and continuance of ^^^^'^'^.^/'''''^^^^ mand. This was a greate surprize in a Pariiament which people be- leiv'd would have complied in all things. Popish pamphlets and pictures sold pubhckly ; no books nor answers to them appearing till long after. ™ Kpfu-f.pn Mr 21. I resign'd n^y trust for composing a difference bet^^een Mr. rhynn and his wife. 22. Hitherto was a very wett ^^mie^^^^f r . Cnnnse] .md 4 Dec. Lord Sunderland was declar'd Piesident of the Counsel. 494 DINED AT MR. PEPYS'. THE VENETIAN AMBASSADORS. yet to hold his Secretarie's place. The forces dispos'd into severall quarters thro' the kingdome are very insolent, on which there are greate complaints. Lord Brandon tried for the late conspiracy, was condemned and pardon'd ; so was Lord Grey, his accuser and witnesse. Persecution in France raging, the French insolently visite our ves- sells, and take away the fugitive Protestants ; some escape in barrells. lo. To Greenwich, being put into the new Commission of Sewers. 13. Dr. Patrick, Dean of Peterborough, preach'd at Whitehall, before the Princesse of Denmark ; who since his Majesty came to the Crown, all ways sate in the King's closet, and had the same bowings and ceremonies applied to the place where she was, as his Majesty had when there in person. Dining at Mr. Pepys's, Dr. Slayer shewed us an experiment of a wonderful nature, pouring hrst a very cold liquor into a glass, and super-fusing on it another, to appearance cold and cleare liquor also ; it first produced a white cloud, then boiling, divers corruscations and actual flames of fire mingled with the liquor, which being a little shaken together, fixed divers sunns and Starrs of real fire, perfectly globular, on the sides of the glasse, and which there stuck like so many constellations, burning most vehemently, and resembling Starrs and heavenly bodies, and that for a long space. It seemed to exhibite a theorie of the eduction of light out of the chaos, and the fixing or gathering of the universal light into luminous bodys. This matter or phosphorus was made out of human blood and urine, elucidating the vital flame or heate in animal bodys. A very noble experiment. 16. I accompanied my Lord Lieutenant as far as St. Alban's, there going out of towne with him neere 200 coaches of all the greate officers and nobilitie. The next morning on taking leave, I return'd to London. 18. I din'd at the greate entertainment his Majesty gave the Venetian Ambassadors, Signiors Zenno and Justiniani, accompanied with 10 more noble Venetians of their most illustrious families, Cor- naro, Maccenigo, &c. who came to congratulate their Majesties coming to the Crowne. The dinner was most magnificent and plentiful!, at four tables, with music, kettle drums, and trumpets, which sounded upon a whistle at every health. The banquet [desert] was 12 vast chargers pil'd up so high that those who sat one against another could hardly see each other. Of these sweetmeates, which doubtless were some days piling up in that exquisite manner, the Ambassadors touch'd not, but leaving them to the spectators who came out of curiosity to see the dinner, were exceedingly pleas'd to see in wliat a moment of time all that curious work was demolish'd, the comfitures voided, and >he tables clear'd. Thus his Majesty entertained them three days, yhich (for the table only) cost him £600, as the Cleark of the Greene THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. cloth (Sir William. Boreman) assur'd me. Dinner ended, I saw their procession or cavalcade to White-hall, innumerable coaches attendincr rhe two Ambassadors had 4 coaches of their owne and 50 footemen vas I remember), besides other equipage as splendid as the occasion would permitt, the Court being still in mourning. Thence I went to the audience which they had in the Queene's presence chamber, the Banquetting house being full of goods and furniture till the galleries on the gLirden side. Council chamber, and new Chapell now in building, were finish'd. They went to their audience in those plain black gownes and caps which they constantly weare in the Citty of Venice. I was invited to have accompanied the 2 Ambassadors in iheir coach to supper that night, returning now to their own lodgings, as no longer at the King's expence ; but being weary 1 excus'd myself. 19 Dec. My Lord Treasurer made me dine with him, where I be- came acquainted with Monsieur Barillon, the French Ambassador, a learned and crafty advocate. 20. Dr. Turner, brother to the Bp. of Ely, and sometime Tutor to my son, preach'd at White-hall on 8 Mark 38, concerning the submis- sion of Christians to their persecutors, in which were some passages indiscreete enough, considering the time, and the rage of the inhumane French tyrant against the poore Protestants. 22. Our patent for executing the office of Privy Seal during the absence of the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, being this day seal'd by the Lord Chancellor, we went afterwards to St. James's, where the Court then was on occasion of building at White-hall ; his Majesty delivcr'd the scale to my Lord Tiviot and myselfe, the other Commissioners not being come, and then gave us his hand to kisse. There were the two Venetian Ambassadors, and a world of company ; amongst the rest the first Popish Nuncio 1 that had ben in England since the Reforma- tion, so wonderfully were things chang'd, to the universal jealousy. 24. We were all three Commissioners sworne on our knees by the Cleark of the Crowne, before my Lord Chancellor, three severall oathes; allegiance, supremacy, and the oath belonging to the Lord Privy Seal, which last we tooke standing. After this the Lord Chancellor invited us all to dinner, but it being Christmas-eve we desir'd to be excusd, intending at three in the afternoone to scale divers things which lay ready at the office ; so attended by three of the Clearks of the Signet, we met and seal'd. Amongst other things was a pardon to W est, who being privy to the late conspiracy had reveal'd the accomplices to save his owne neck. There were also another pardon and two indeniza- tions ; and so agreeing to a fortnight's vacation, I ^^t"^"/ f^,^/- ^ 31. Recollecting the passages of the yeare past, '-^"d made up ac compts, humbly besought Almighty God to P^^-^^Vf^Hv Ihat he which had provoked him to discompose my sorrowfull family , that he I Ferdinand Cour/ D'Ada. afterwards a Cardinal There is a good mezzot.nto pnnt of hx* 496 JOHN DRYDEN AND HIS SONS' PROVERBS. MRS. NELLY. would accept of our humiliation, and in his good time restore comfort fjt it. I also blest God for all his undeserved mercies and preserva- tions, begging the continuance of his grace and preservation. — The winter had hitherto been extraordinary vvett and mild. 1686. I Jan. Imploring the continuance of God's providential care for the yeare now entered, 1 went to the publiq devotions. The Deane of the Chapell and Cleark of the Closet put out, viz. Bp. of London and . . . , and Rochester (Sprat) and Durham (Crewe) put into their places ; the former had oppos'd the toleration intended, and shewn a worthy zeale for the Reform'd Religion as establish'd. 6. I din'd with the Abp. of York, where was Peter Walsh, that Romish Priest so well known for his moderation, professing the Church of England to be a true member of the Catholic Church ; he is us'd to go to our publiq prayers without scruple, and did not acknowledge the Pope's infaUibility, onely primacy of order. 19. Passed the Privie Scale, amongst others, the creation of Mrs. Sedley ^ (concubine to ) Countesse of Dorchester, which the Queene took very grievously, so as for two dinners, standing neere her I observed she hardly eate one morsel, nor spake one word to the King, or to any about her, tho' at other times she us'd to be extreamly pleasant, full of discourse and good humour. The Roman Catholics were also very angry, because they had so long valu'd the sanctity of their religion and proselytes. Dryden the famous playwriter, and his two sonns, and Mrs. Nelly (Misse to the late ) were said to go to masse; such proselytes were no greate losse to the church. This night was burnt to the ground my Lord Montague's palace in Bloomsbury, than which for painting and furniture there was nothing more glorious in England. This happen'd by the negligence of a ser- vant airing, as they call it, some of the goods by the fire in a moist season ; indeede so wet and mild a winter had scarce ben scene in man's memory. At this Scale there also pass'd the creation of Sir. H. Walgrave to be a Peere. He had married one of the King's natural daughters by Mrs. Churchill. These two Scales my brother Commissioners pass'd in the morning before I came to towne, at which I was not displeas'd. We likewise pass'd Privy Scales for £276,000 upon severall accounts, pensions, guards, wardrobes, privie purse, &c. besides divers pardons, and one more which I must not forget (and which by Providence I wai 1 Catharine, daughter of Sir Charles Sedley, Bart, one of the famous knot of wits and coun ders of King Charles's time— he was also a poet, and wrote some dramatic pieces. She had k daughter by King James II. and was afterwards married to David Earl of Portmore, whom she had two sons, and died in 1717. Lord Dorset's well known verses, 'Tell me, Dor.nda, why so gay,' &c. are addressed to this lady. Her fatlier's sarcasm when he voted for hllmg up ihf vacant throne with the Prince and Princess of Orange is well known : ' King lames made mv dauf^hter a Giantess, ar-^ I have been helpinc to make his daughter a Queen.' THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 49^^ not present at) one Mr. Lytcott to be Secretary to the Ambassador lo Rome. We being three Commissioners, any two were a quorum. 21. I din'd at my Lady Arhngton's, groome of the stole to the Queene Dowager, at Somerset House, where din'd the Countesses of Devonshire, Dover, &c. in all 11 ladys of quality, no man but myselfe being there. 24. Unheard of cruelties to the persecuted Protestants of France, such as hardly any age has seene the like, even among the Pagans. 6 Feb. Being the day on which his Majesty began his reign, by order of Council it was to be solemniz'd with a particular Office and Sermon, which the Bp. of Ely (Dr. Fr. Turner), preach'd at White- hall on II Numb. 12 ; a Court oration upon the Regal office. It was much wonder'd at that this day, which w^as that of his late Majesty's death, should be kept as a festival, and not [instead of] the day of the present King's coronation. It is said to have been formerly the cos- tom, tho' not till now since the reigne of King James I. The Dutchesse of Monmouth being in the same seate with me at church, appeared with a very sad and afflicted countenance. 8. I tooke the Test in Westminster Hall, before the Lord Cheii Justice. 1 now came to lodge at Whitehall in the Lord Privy Seal's lodgings. 12. My greate cause was heard by my Lord Chancellor, who gran- ted me a re-hearing. I had 6 eminent lawyers, my antagonists 3, whereof one was the smooth-tong Solicitor,' whom my Lord Chan- cellor reprov'd in greate passion for a very small occasion. Blessed be God for his greate goodnesse to me this day. 19. Many bloody and notorious duels were fought about this time. The Duke of Grafton kill'd Mr. Stanley, brother to the Earle of [Derby], indeede upon an almost insufferable provocation. It is to be hop'd his Majesty will at last severely remedy this unchristian custome. Lord Sunderland was now Secretary of State, President of the Coun- cil, and Premier Minister. I March. Came Sir Gilbert Gerrard to treate with me about his Bonn's marrying my daughter Susanna. The father being obnoxious, and in some suspicion and displeasure of the King, I would receive no proposal till his Majesty had given me leave, which he was pleas d to do ; but after severall meetings we brake off on his not being willing to secure any thing competent for my daughter's children ; besides hat I found most of his estate was in the coal pits as far off as N wcastle and on leases from the Bishop of Durham, who had power to make concurrent leases, with other difficulties. 7. Dr. Frampton, Bp. of Gloucester, P^^^^^V^^hr ft fror^^ 19. shewing the severa'l afflictions of the Church of ^^^^^^^^^^^ p; imitives to this day, applying exceedingly to the present conjuncture. ' Mr. Finch, called Si,:ver.Tc.^'-'- h;s manner of speakn^^^. 49? AM LORD PRIVY SEAL. PAPIST GOVERNOR OF DOVER CASTLE. when many were wavering in their minds, and greate temptations appearing thro' the favour now found by the Papists, so as the people were full of jealousies and discouragement. The Bp. magnified the Church of England, exhorting to constancy and perseverance. lo. A Council of the Royal Society about disposing of Dr. Ray's book of Fishes, which was printed at the expence of the Society. 12. A docquet was to be seal'd importing a lease of 21 yeares to one Hall, who styl'd himselfe his Majesty's printer (he lately turn'd Papist) for the printing Missalls, Offices, Lives of Saints, Portals Primers, &c. books expressly forbidden to be printed or sold, by divers Acts of Parliament ; I refus'd to put the scale to it, making my excep- tions, so it was laied by. 14. The Bp. of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd on 6 John 17, a most excellent and pathetic discourse: after he had recommended the duty of fasting and other penetential duties, he exhorted to con- stancy in the Protestant religion, detestation of the unheard-of cruelties of the French, and stirring up to a liberal contribntion. This Sermon was the more acceptable, as it was unexpected from a Bishop who had undergon the censure of being inclin'd to Popery, the contrary whereof no man could shew more. This indeede did all our Bishops, to the disabusing and reproch of all their delators ; for none were more zealous against Popery than they were. 16. I was at a review of the Army about London, in Hide Park, about 6000 horse and foote, in excellent order ; his Majesty and in- finity of people being present. 17. I went to my house in the country, refusing to be present at what was to passe at the Privy Scale the next day. In the morning Dr. Tenison preached an incomparable discourse at White-hall, on 2 Timothy 3, 4. 24. Dr. Cradock (Provost of Eaton) preached at the same place on 49 Psalm 13. shewing the vanity of earthly enjoyments. 28. Dr. White, Bp. of Peterboro', preach'd in a very eloquent style, on 26 Matthew, 29, submission to the will of God on all accidents and at all times. 29. The Duke of Northumberland (a natural son of the late King by the Dutchess of Cleaveland) marrying very meanly, with the helpe of his brother Grafton, attempted to spirit away his wife. A Briefe was read in all Churches for relieving the French Pro- testants who came here for protection from the unheard-of cruelties of their King. Aprill 2. Sir Edward Hales, a Papist, made Governor of Dover Castle.' 'wi,"^ coachman was set up to inform against him, and claim the 500 peiuity When tius was to be brought to trial the Judges were secretly asked their opinions, 15 .r^r T?? ""^^^ """^ '^'^ ^"'^ ^""^^'i Half «>f ^^^^ were dismissed, Duroct, 1.11. mo, uii. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 499 15. The Abp. of York (Dr. John Dolbcn) now died of the small pox, aged 62, a corpulent man. He was my special loving friend, and whilst Bp. of Rochester (from whence he was translated) my excellent neighbour. He w^as an unexpressible losse to the whole church, and that province especialy, he being a learned, wise, stoute, and most worthy prelate ; 1 looke on this as a greate stroke to the poore Church of England, now in this defecting period. 18. In the afternoone I went to Camberwell to visit Dr. Parr. After Sermon I accompanied him to his house, where he shew'd me the Life and Letters of the late learned Primate of Armagh (Usher) and among them that letter of Bp. Bramhal's to the Primate, giving notice of the Popish practices to pervert this Nation, by sending an hundred priests into England, who were to conforme themselves to all sectaries and conditions for the more easily dispersing their doctrine amongst us. This letter was the cause of the whole impression being seiz'd, upon pretence that it was a political or historical account of things not re- lating to theology, tho' it had ben licens'd by the Bishop ; which plainely shew'd what an interest the Papists now had, that a Protestant booke, containing the life and letters of so eminent a man, was not to be published. There were also many letters to and from most of the learned persons his correspondents in Europe. The book will, I doubt not, struggle through this unjust impediment. Several Judges were put out, and new complying ones put in. 25. This day was read in our church the Briefe for a collection for reliefe of the Protestant French, so cruely, barbarously, and inhumanly oppress'd without any thing laied to their charge. It had ben long expected, and at last was with difficulty procur'd to be published, the interest of the French Ambassador obstructing it. 5 May. There being a Scale it was fear'd we should be requir'd to passe a doquett dispensing with Dr. Obadiah Walker and four more, whereof one was an apostate curate of Putney ', the others officers of University College, Oxford, to hold their masterships, fellowships, and cures, and keepe publiq schooles, and enjoy all former emoluments notwithstanding they no more frequented or us'd the public formes o pravers or communion with the Church of England, or tooke the test and oathes of allegiance and supremacy, contrary to 20 Acts of 1 arlia- ment; which dispensation being also contrary to his Majesty sowne gracious declaration at the beginning of his reigne, gave ""^brage (as well it might) to every good Protestant, nor could we safely have pass d it under the Privy Seafe, wherefore it was done by immediate warrant. %ms\kt™ ^ person,of a monkishlife,towhosetuition . Edw. Sclater. From a Protestant he ^ec-e a Roman C.^^^^^ his recantation from that church, and agam became a Protestant. Ma g Surrey, III. 300. 500 PAPACY IN THE ASCENDANT. TYRCONNEL GONE TO IRELAND. I had more than 30 yeares since recommended the sonns of my worthy friend Mr. Hyldyard of Horsley in Surrey, believing him to be far from what he prov'd, an hypocritical conceal'd Papist, by which he perverted the eldest sonn of Mr. Hyldyard, Sir Edward Hale's eldest sonn, and severall more, to the greate disturbance of the whole Nation, as well as of the University, as by his now publiq defection appear'd. All engines being now at work to bring in Popery, which God in mercy prevent ! This day was burnt in the old Exchange, by the common hangman., a translation of a booke written bv the famous Monsieur Claude, relating onely matters of fact concerning the horrid massacres and barbarous proceedings of the French King against his Protestant subjects, with- out any refutation of any facts therein ; so mighty a power and ascen- dant here had the French Ambassador, who was doubtlesse in greate indignation at the pious and truly generous charity of all the Nation, for the rehefe of those miserable sufferers who came over for shelter. About this time also the Duke of Savoy, instigated by the French King to extirpate the Protestants of Piedmont, slew many thousands of those innocent people, so that there seem'd to be an universal designe to destroy all that would not go to masse, throughout Europe. Qitpd avertat D. O. M ! No faith in Princes ! 12. I refus'd to put the Privy Scale to Dr. Walker's licence for printing and publishing divers Popish books, of which I complain'd both to my Lord of Canterbury (with whom I went to advise in the Council Chamber), and to my Lord Treasurer that evening at his lodgings. My Lord of Canterbury's advice was, that I should follow my owne conscience therein * ; Mr. Treasurer s, that if in conscience I could dispense with it, for any other hazard he believ'd there was none. Notwithstanding this I persisted in my refusal. 29. There was no sermon on this anniversary, as there usually had ben ever since the reigne of the present King. 2 June. Such storms, raine and foul weather, seldom known at this time of the yeare. The camp at Hounslow Heath, from sicknesse and other inconveniences of weather, forc'd to retire to quarters ; the storms being succeeded by excessive hot weather, many grew sick. Greate feasting there, especialy in Lord Dunbarton's quarters. There were many jealousies and discourses of what was the meaning of this in- campment. A Scale this day, mostly pardons and discharges of Knight Baronets fees, which having ben pass'd over for so many yeares, did greatly dis- oblige several families who had serv'd his Majestic. Lord Tirconnell gon to Ireland, with greate powers and commissions, giving as much cause of talke as the camp, especialy 19 new privy councillors and judges being now made, amongst which but three Protestants, and Tir- connell made GeneralL ' Sancroft. Burnet describes him as a timid man. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. jCI New Judges also here, amongst which was Milton, a Papist (brothei to that Milton who wrote for the Regicides), who presum'd to take his place without passing the Test.' Scotland refuses to grant liberty of masse to the Papists there. The French persecution more inhuman than ever. The Protestants in Savoy successfully resist the French dragoons sent to murder them. The King's chiefe physician in Scotland apostatizing from the Pro- testant religion, does of his own accord pubHsh his recantation at Edinburgh.^ II. I went to see Middleton's receptacle of water at the New River, and the new Spa Wells neere. 20. An extraordinary season of violent and sudden raine. The camp still in tents. 24. My Lord Treasurer settled by greate businesse with Mr. Pretyman, to which I hope God will at last give a prosperous issue. 25. Now his Majesty, beginning with Dr. Sharp and Tully, pro- ceeded to silence and suspend divers excellent divines for preaching against Popery. 27. I had this day ben married 39 yeares— blessed be God for all his mercies. The new very young Lord Cheif Justice Herbert declared on the bench that the governmnet of England was entirely in the King ; that the Crown was absolute ; that penal laws were powers lodged in the Crown to enable the King to force the execution of the law, but were not bars to bind the King's power ; that he could pardon all offences against the law, and forgive the penalties, and why could he not dispense with them ? by which the Test was aboUsh'd. Every one was astonish'd. Greate jealousies as to what would be the end of these proceedings. 6 July. I supp'd with the Countesse of Rochester, where was also the Dutchesse of Buckingham and Madame de Govern^, whose daugh- ter was married to the Marquess of Halifax's sonn. She made me a character of the French King and Dauphin, and of the persecution. That they kept much of the cruelties from the King's knowledge ; that the Dauphin was so afraid of his father, that he durst not let any tbmg appeare of his sentiments ; that he hated letters and priests, spent all his time in hunting, and seem'd to take no notice of what was passmg. 1 Christopher M:lton, made a Baron of the Exchequer. He did hoM Jus sh^ and Dr. Johnson admits that from weakness of consutution he retired before he had done any 'Tll^tlbrSibbald. who wasthe most lea^edantiquaryin^ of philosophical virtue but i. great doubt - - revea^^^^^^^^^^^ Tne so on so htt.e Earl of Perth to turn Papist ; but he soon bec.une j "^^^ f went into a inquiry. He went to London for some -^^^^s retiring rom a 1 c^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ deep course of study, by which he came to see m o errojs ^-e^ ^.^^^ to Scotland, and pubUshed his recantation openly in a church. 1X28. 502 DR. ALLIX OF LAMBETH. ECCLESIASTICAL COMMISSIONERS. This lady was of a greate family and fortune, and had fled hither for refuge. 8. I waited on the Abp. at Lambeth, where I din'd and met the famous preacher and writer, Dr. Allix, doubtlesse a most excellent and learned person. The Abp. and he spoke Latin together, and that very readily. II. Dr. Meggot, Deane of Winchester, preach'd before the House- hold in St. George's chapell at Windsor, the late King's glorious chapell now seiz'd on by the masse priests. Dr. Cartwright, Deane of Ripon, preach'd before the greate men of the Court in the same place. We had now the sad news of the Bishop of Oxford's death,^ an extra- ordinary losse to the poore Church at this time. Many candidates for his Bishoprick and Deanry, Dr. Parker, South, Aldrich, &c. Dr. Walker (now apostatizing) came to Court, and was doubtlesse very buisy. 13. Note, that standing by the Queene at Bassett (Cards) I ob- serv'd that she was exceedingly concern 'd for the losse of £.So. ; her outward affability much chang'd to statelinesse, since she has ben exalted. The season very rainy and inconvenient for the Camps. His Majesty very cherefull. 14. Was seal'd at our office the Constitution of certaine Commis- sioners to take upon them the full power of all Ecclesiastical affairs, in as unlimited a manner, or rather greater, than the late High Commis- sion Court, abrogated by Parliament ; for it had not onely faculty to inspect and visite all Bishops dioceses, but to change what laws and statutes they should think fit to alter among the Colledges, tho' founded by private men ; to punish, suspend, fine, &c. give oathes and call witnesses. The maine drift was to suppresse zealous preachers. In sum, it was the whole power of a Vicar General— note the conse- quence ! Of the Cleargy the Commissioners were the Abp. of Canter- bury [Sancroft], Bishops of Durham [Crew] and Rochester [Sprat] ; of the Temporals, the Lord Treasurer, the Lord Chancellor [Jefferies] (who alone was ever to be of the quorum), the Cheife Justice [Herbert], and Lord President [Earl of Sunderland]. 18. I went to see Sir John Chardin at Greenwich. 4 August. I din'd at Signior Verrio's, the famous Italian Painter, now settled in his Majesty's garden at St. James's, which he had made a very delicious Paradise. 8. Our Vicar gone to dispose of his country living in Rutlandshire, having St. Dunstan in the East given him by the Abp. of Canterbury. I went to visite the Marquess Ravign^, now my neighbour at Greenewich, retir'd from the persecution in France. He was the Deputy of all the Protestants of that Kingdom in the Parliament of Paris, 1 Dr John Fell, also Deane of Christ Church. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 503 and severall times Ambassador in this and other Courts ; a person of greate learning and experience 8 Sept. Dr. Compton Bp. of London was on Monday suspended, on pretence of not silencing Dr. Sharp of St. Giles's for something of a sermon in which he zealously reprov'd the doctrine of the Roman Catholics. The Bishop having consulted the Civilians, they told him he could not by any Law proceed against Dr. Sharp without producing witnesses, and impleading according to forme : but it was over-rul'd by my Lord Chancellor, and the Bishop sentenc'd without so much as being heard to any purpose. This was thought a very extraordinary way of proceeding, and was universally resented, and so much the rather for that 2 Bishops, Durham (Crewe) and Rochester (Sprat), sitting in the Commission and giving their suffrages, the Abp. of Canterbury refus'd to sit amongst them. He was only suspended ab officio^ and that was soone after taken off. He was brother to the Earl of Northampton, had once ben a Souldier, had travelled in Italy, but became a sob-r, grave, and excellent Prelate. 12. Buda now taken from the Turks, a Form of Thanksgiving was order'd to be us'd in the (as yet remaining) Protestant Chapells and Church of White-hall and Windsor. The King of Denmark was besieging Hambrow, no doubt by the French contrivance, to embroile the Protestant Princes in a new warr, that Holland, &c. being ingag'd, matter for new quarrell might arise : the unheard-of persecution of the poore Protestants still ragmg more than ever. 22. The Danes retire from Hambrow, the Protestant Prmces ap- pearing for their succour, and the Emperor sending his Minatones to the King of Denmark, and also requiring the restoration of the D. ot Saxe Gothorp. Thus it pleas'd God to defeate the French designes, which were evidently to kindle a new warr. , • , j 14 Oct. His Majestys birth-day; I was at his rising m his bed- chamber, afterwards in the Parke, where 4 companies of Gu-d wer drawn u^. The officers, &c. wonderful rich and f^'^J^^l^'^^^^^ head their troops, but their next officers, the Colonels being on horse- back by the King whilst they march'd. The Ladys not lesse splendid at Court where th^ e was a Bail at night, but small appearance of qu^r^:^^^^^ both in the C^tty and Subui^bs^^^^^^^ and kept as solemnly as any holyday. Bonehres at night m ChJrch on 5 Ephes. 18. 1,9. shewing the^ostom^^^^^^^^ Saints in serving God with Hymns, and their trequent u I His sonwaswith Ki.gWUHa. in l^el^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ missed by violence of party, as being a FrenchmaD , respect most excellent, as wUl be mentioned hereafter- 504 CRAN BOURN. DR. WARREN. LORD MAYOR'S SHEW. DR. BIRCH. upon all occasions : perstringing the profane way of mirth and intem- perance of this ungodly age. Afterwards I visited my Lord Cheife justice of Ireland, with whom I had long and private discourse con« ceming the miserable condition that kingdom was like to be in i\ Tyrconnell's Councils should prevaile at Court. 23. Went with the Countesse of Sunderland to Cranbourn, a lodge and walke of my Lord Godolphin's in Windsor Parke. There was one room in the house spared in the pulling downe the old one, because the late Dutchesse of York was borne in it ; the rest was built and added to it by Sir Geo. Cateret, Treasurer of the Navy ; and since the whole was purchas'd by my Lord Godolphin, who spake to me to go see it, and advise what trees were ht to be cut downe to improve the dwelling, it being inviron'd with old rotten pollards, which corrupt the aire. It stands on a knowle, which tho' insensibly rising, gives it a prospect over the Keepe of Windsor, about three miles N. E. of it. The ground is clayey and moist : the water stark naught ; the park is pretty ; the house tolerable, and gardens convenient. After dinner we came back to London, having 2 coaches both going and coming, of 6 horses apiece, which we chang'd at Hounslow. 24 Oct. Dr. Warren preached before the Princesse at White-hall on 5 Matthew, of the blessedness of the pure in heart, most elegantly describing the bUsse of the beatifical vision. In the afternoone Sir Geo. Wheeler, knight and bart. preach'd on the 4th Matt, upon the necessity of repentance, at St. Margaret's, an honest and devout dis- course, and pretty tolerably perform'd. This gentleman coming from his travels out of Greece fell in love with the daughter of Sir Thomas Higgles, his Majesty's Resident at Venice, niece to the Earle of Bath, and married her. When they returned into England, being honour'd with knighthood, he would needes turne Preacher, and tooke orders. He publish'd a learned and ingenious book of his travels, and is a very worthy person, a little formal and particular, but exceedingly devoute 27. There was a triumphant shew of the Lord Maior both by land and water, with much solemnity, when yet his power has been so much diminish'd, by the losse of the Citty's former charter. 5 Nov. 1 went to St. Martin's in the morning, where Dr. Birch preach'd very boldly against the Papists, from 16 John 2. In the ' Sir George Wheeler was bom whilst his parents were in exile at Breda for their attach- ment to King Charles I. He was of Lincoln College, Oxford. On his return from his travels in Asia and Greece he was knighted. Having presented several antiquities which he had collected to the University of Oxford in 1683, they gave him his degree of A. M. He took orders against the advice of powerful friends, but from an earnest desire to be useful as a Parish Priest ; and he well fulfilled his intentions. He became Rector of Houghton-le- bpring in Durham, the living which had been so exemplarily filled by the ' Northren Apostle ' Bernard Gilpin, and whose example he worthily followed. Bishop Crew also gave him a stall in Durham Cathedral. He died on 18 Jan. 1723^ His descendants are seated at Ouerden in ''>''-at. Suriees, ' History of Durham ' (1816), wkere a large account is given of him. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. afternoone I heard Dr. Tillotson in Lincoln's Inn Chapell, on the sam« text, but more cautiously. 1 6. I went with part of my family to passe the melancholy winter in London fit my sonn's house in Arundel Buildings. 5 Dec. I dined at my Lady Arlington's, Groome of the Stole to the Queene Dowager at Somerset House, where dined divers French Noblemen, driven out of their Country by the persecution. 1 6. I carried the Countesse of Sunderland to see the rarities of one Mr. Charleton in the Middle Temple, who shew'd us such a collection as I had never scene in all my travels abroad, either of private gentle- men or princes. It consisted of miniatures, drawings, shells, insects, medailes, natural things, animals (of which divers, I think loo, were kept in glasses of spirits of wine), minerals, precious stones, vessells, curiosities in amber, christal, achat, &c. ; all being very perfect and rare in their kind, especialy his bookes of birds, fish, flowers, and shells, drawn and miniat J to the life. He told us that one book stood him in ^300 ; it was painted by that excellent workman whom the late Gaston Duke of Orleans emploied. This gentleman's whole collection, gather'd by himselfe travelling over most parts of Europe, is estimated at ;^8ooo. He appear'd to be a modest and obligmg Person '. . , XT /-I- 1 29. I went to heare the musiq of the Italians m the New Chapel, now first open'd publickly at White-hall for the Popish service. No- thing can be finer than the magnificent marble work and architecture at the end, where are four statues, representing St. John, St. Feter, bt Paul, and the Church, in white marble, the work of Mr. Gibbons, with all the carving and pillars of exquisite art and grcate cost. The altar^ piece is the Salutation ; the volto in fresca, the A^^^P^;^^ f ^^^^ Blessed Virgin according to their tradition, with our Bl. Saviour and a world of figures, painted by Verrio. The throne where the King and Queene sit is ver; glorious, in a closet above JUSt opposite to the altar. Here we saw the Bishop in his mitre and copes with 6 or 7 Jesuits and others in rich copes, sumptuously ^^^ited often taki^^^^^^^^ and putting on the Bishop's mitre, who sate m ^.^^^^^^^^^^^^f^i"' pontificaly,'was ador'd and cens'd by 3 ^^^^'^Zn ^ls^^^^^^^ In. to tL altar and ^^^^^l^Z!^^^^^^^^ and glorious tabernacle plac d on the altar, ana place : the crosier, which was of silver, »^ "^^"/^i^h singing, a world of mysterious ceremony the ""l^^J^l'^XLgs ilthe 1 could not have believ'd I ^''^^'^ evf^ h^jy^^^/Z^^fenlighten this King of England's Palace, after it had Pl'-- d God to g ^ Nation ; but our greate sin has, for th P^^^^'^f^P ,o Us purity, which I hope He will in mercy and h s good^ m ^^^^^ 1 This colkction was afterwards purchased by Sk Hans British Museum. On.. Mag. Nov. .3.6. p. SM. 5o6 TYRCONNELI MADE LORD LIEUTENANT OF IRELAND. Little appearance of any Winter as yet. 1687. I Jan. Mr. Wake preach'd at St. Martin's on i Tim. 3. 16 concerning the mysterie of Godlinesse. He wrote excellently in answer to the Bishop of Meaux. 3. A seal to confirm a gift of £^000 per annum for 99 yeares to the Lord Treasurer out of the Post Office, and ^1700 per annum for ever out of Lord Gray's estate. There was now another change of the greate Officers. The Treasury was put into Commission, two profess'd Papists amongst them, viz. Lords Bellasis and Dover, joyn'd with the old ones, Lord Godolphin, Sir Stephen Fox, and Sir J. Earnley. 17. Much expectation of severall greate men declaring themselves Papists. Lord Tyrconnell gone to succeed the Lord Lieutenant [Cla- rendon] in Ireland, to the astonishment of all sober men, and to the evident ruine of the Protestants in that Kingdom, as well as of its greate improvement going on. Much discourse that all the White Staff Officers and others should be dismissed for adhering to their Religion. Popish Justices of the Peace establish'd in all Counties, of the meanest of the people ; Judges ignorant of the Law, and perverting it — so furiously do the Jesuits drive, and even compel Princes to violent courses, and destruction of an excellent Government both in Church and State. God of his infinite mercy open our eyes and turn our hearts, and establish his truth with peace ! The Lord Jesus defend his httle Flock, and preserve this threatened Church and Nation. 24. I saw the Queenes new apartment at White-hall, with her new bed, the embrodery of which cost ;^3000. The carving about the chimney-piece, by Gibbons, is incomparable. 30. I heard the famous eunuch Cifaccio sing in the new Popish Chapell this afternoon e ; it was indeede very rare, and with greate skill. He came over from Rome, esteemed one of the best voices in Italy. Much crowding — little devotion. 27 Feb. Mr. Chetwin preached at White-hall on i Rom. 18, a very quaint neate discourse of moral righteousnesse. 2 March. Came out a Proclamation for universal liberty of con- science in Scotland, and dispensation from all tests and lawes to the contrary, as also capacitating Papists to be chosen into all offices of trust. The mysterie operates. 3. Dr. Megot Deane of Winchester preached before the Princesse of Denmark on 14 Matt. 23. In the afternoone I went out of towne to meete my Lord Clarendon, returning from Ireland. 10.^ His Majesty sent for the Commissioners of the Privy $eale this morning into his bed-chamber, and told us that tho' he had thought fit to dispose of the scale into a single hand, yet he would so provide for us as it should appeare how well he accepted our faithfull and Icyal service, with many gracious expressions to this effect ; upon which we THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. deliver'd the scale into his hands. It was by all the world both hoped and expected that he would have restor'd it to my Lord Clarendon ; but they were astonish'd to see it given to Lord Arundel of Wardour, a zealous Roman Catholic. Indeede it was very hard, and look'd xeiy unkindly, his Majesty (as my Lord Clarendon protested to me, on my going to visite him and long discoursing with him about the affaires of Ireland) finding not the least failure of duty in him during his govern- ment of that kingdom, so that his recall plainely appeared to be from the stronger influence of the Papists, who now got all the preferments. Most of the greate Officers, both in the Court and Country, Lords and others, were dismiss'd, as they would not promise his Majesty their consent to the repeal of the Test and penal Statutes against Popish Recusants. To this end most of the Parliament men were spoken to in his Ma'estys closset, and such as refus'd, if in any place or office of trust, ci . il or military, were put out of their employments. This was a time of greate trial, but hardly one of them assented, which put the Popish interest much backward. The English Cleargy every where prcach'd boldly against their superstition and errors, and were wonderfully foUow'd by the People. Not one considerable proselyte was made in all this time. The party were exceedingly put to the worst by the preaching and writing of the Protestants in many excellent treatises, evincing the doctrine and discipline of the Reform'd Religion, to the manifest disadvantage of their adversaries. To this did not a little contribute the sermon preach'd at White-hall before the Prmcesse of Denmark and a great croud of People, and at least 30 of the greatest Nobility, by Dr. Ken, Bishop of Bath and Wells, on 8 John 46 (the Gospel of the day) describing thro' his whole discourse the blasphemies perfidy, wresting of Scripture, preference of tradition before it, spirit of persecution, superstition, legends and fables of the Scribes and Phari- sees, so that all the auditory understood his meaning Pj^^^^^f between them and the Romish Priests, and their new Trent Relig on. He exhorted his audience to adhere to the written Word, ^3^^; vcre in the Faith taught in the Church of England, whose doctrine for Catholic and soundness he preferr d to all the Co—^^s and Churches of Christians in the world ; concluding with ^ kmd^^^^^^^^^ phesy, that whatever it suffered, it should after a short trial emerge to the confusion of her adversaries, and the glory of God. I went this evening to see the order of the boys and children Christ's Hospital. There were neere 800 boys ^ ^^J^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^ clad, cleanly lodg'd, so ;f was Mathematics, especialy the 40 01 the late Kin s delighted to see the progresse some htt^^ and age had made. I saw them at supper v'siie „f this much adrntr-d the order, ceconomy.and ^-^'' f^^^ Universities, most ckarilabi? scmmary. Some are taugni 5o8 CHRIST'S HOSPITAL. TRIAL OF BOMBS ON BLACKHEATll. Others design'd for Seamen, all for Trades and Callings. The girles are instructed in all such worke as becomes their sex and may fit them for good wives, mistresses, and to be a blessing to their generation. They sung a psalme before they sat downe to supper in the greate hall, to an organ, which play'd all the time, with such cheerfull harmony that it seem'd to me a vision of angels. I came from the place with infinite satisfaction, having never scene a more noble, pious and admirable Charity. All these consisted of orphans onely. The Foundation was of that pious Prince K. Edw. 6, whose picture (held to be an original of Holbein) is in the Court where the Governors meete to consult on the affaires of the Hospital, and his statue in white marble stands in a nich of the wall below, as you go to the Church, which is a modern, noble, and ample fabric. This Foundation has had, and still has, many Benefactors. 1 6 March. I saw a trial of those devilish murdering mischief-doing engines called Bombs, shot out of the morter-piece on Black-heath. The distance that they are cast, the destruction they make where they fall, is prodigious. 20. The Bishop of Bath and Wells (Dr. Ken) preach'd at St. Mar- tines to a crowd of people not to be express'd, nor the wonderful elo- quence of this admirable preacher ; the text was 26 Matt. 36 to verse 40. describing the bitterness of our Bl. Saviour's agony, the ardour of his love, the infinite obligations we have to imitate his patience and resignation : the means by watching against temptations, and over our- selves, with fervent prayer to attaine it, and the exceeding reward in the end. Upon all which he made most patheticall discourses. The Communion followed, at which I was participant. I afterwards din'd at Dr. Tenison's with the Bishop and that young, most learned, pious and excellent preacher, Mr. Wake.' In the afternoone I went to heare Mr. Wake at the new-built church of St. Anne, on 8 Mark 34. upon the subject of taking-up the Crosse, and strenuously behaving ourselves in time of persecution, as this now threaten'd to be. His Majesty againe prorogu'd the Parliament, foreseeing it would not remitt the Laws against Papists, by the extraordinary zeale and bravery of its Members, and the free renunciation of the greate Officers both in Court and State, who would not be prevailed with for any temporal concerne. 25. Good Friday. Dr. Tenison preached at St. Martines, on i Peter 2. 24. Durii^g the service a man came into neere the middle of the church, with his sword drawne, with severall others in tha^ posture ; m this jealous time it put the congregation into greate confusion ; but it appear'd to be one who fled for sanctuary, being pursued by Bayliffs. 8 April. I had a re-hearing of my great Cause at the Chancery in Westminster Hall, having 7 of the most learned Council, my adversary 1 Afterwards Archbishop cf Canterb'' -y. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 509 5, among which were the Attorney General and late Solicitor Finch, son to the Lord Chancellor Nottingham. The accompt was at last brought to one article of the surcharge, an^d referred to a Master. The Cause lasted two hours and more. 10. In the last weeke there was issu'd a Dispensation from all obli- gations and tests, by which Dissenters and Papists especialy had publiq liberty of exercising their severall ways of worship without incurring the penalty of the many Laws and Acts of Parliament to the contrary. This was purely obtain'd by the Papists, thinking thereby to ruine the Church of England, being now the onely Church which so admirably and strenuously oppos'd their superstition. There was a wonderful concourse of people at the Dissenters' Meeting-house in this parish, and the Parish Church [Deptford] left exceeding thin. What this will end in, God Almighty onely knows, but it looks like confusion, which I pray God avert. 11. To London about my suit, some terms of accommodation being propos'd. 19. I heard the famous singer Cifaccio, esteem'd the best in Europe. Indeed his holding out and delicateness in extending and looseing a note with incomparable softnesse and sweetnesse was admirable ; for the rest I found him a mere wanton, effeminate child, very coy, and proudly conceited to my apprehension. He touch'd the harpsichord to his voice rarely well. This was before a select number of particular persons whom Mr. Pepys invited to his house ; and this was obtam'd by particular favour and much difficulty, the Signer much disdammg to shew his talent to any but princes. 24. At Greenewich, at the conclusion of the Church service, there was a French sermon preach'd after the use of the English Liturgy translated into French, to a congregation of about loo French Refu- gees, of whom Monsieur Ruvigny was the cheife, and had obtain d the use of the Church after the Parish service was ended. The Preache patheticaly exhorted to patience, constancy, and reliance on God amidst all their sufferings, and the infinite rewards to come , 2 May I din'd with Mynheer Diskvelts, the Holland Ambassador a prudent and worthy persL. There dm'd Lord ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Secretary of State, Lord Pembroke, Lord L^n^ley^ Lor^^ Fitz Patrick, and Sir John Chardin After ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^"^^^^^^^^^^^ cours'd of a^d deplored the stupid folly 0 our French to take Luxemburg, it being a place of the most jnce^^ have ben defended, for the interest not onely of the Netherlands, 1 2 "^To'^London Lord Sunderland being Lord President and Sec reta^y oT^Stat- made Knight of ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This day there was such ^ ^^orme of wind a had seio^^^ being a sort of hurricane. It kept the flood out of the iname , 510 GOVERNMENT Ta^ THEIR DEBT TO ME. RECOVERY OF TREASURE. people went on foote over several places above bridge. Also an earth- quake in several] places in England about the time of the storme. 26. To London about my agreement with Mr. Pretyman after my tedious suit. 2 June. I went to London, it having pleas'd his Majesty to grant me a Privy Seal for ^.6000, for discharge of the debt I had ben so many yeares persecuted for, it being indeede for mony drawne over by my father in law Sir R. Browne, during his residence in the Court of France, and so with a much greater sum due to Sir Richard from his Majesty ; and now this part of the arreare being paid, there remains yet due to Aie, as executor of Sir Richard, above ^6500 more ; but this deter- mining an expensive chancery suit has ben so great a mercy and provi- dence to me (thro' the kindness and friendship to me of Lord Godol- phin, one of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury) that I do acknowledge it with all imaginable thanks to my gracious God. 6 June. I visited my Lady Pierpoint, daughter to Sir John Evelyn, of Deane [in Wilts], now widow of Mr. Pierpoint, and mother of the Earl of Kingston She was now engag'd in the marriage of my cousin Evelyn Pierpoint, her second son. There was about this time brought into the Downs a vast treasure, which was sunk in a Spanish galloon about 45 years ago somewhere neere Hispaniola or the Bahama islands, and was now weigh'd up by some gentlemen, who were at the charge of divers, &c. to the enrich- ing them beyond all expectation. The Duke of Albemarle's ' share [Governor of Jamaica] came to, I believe, ^50,000. Some private gentlemen who adventur'd ^100 gain'd from 8 to 10,000. His Majesty's tenth was 10,000. The Camp was now againe pitch'd at Hounslow, the Commanders profusely vying in the expence and magnificence of tents. 12. Our Vicar preached on 2 Peter 2, 21, upon the danger of re- lapsing into sin. After this I went and heard M. Lamot, an eloquent French preacher at Greenewich, on 30 Prov. 8, 9, a consolatory dis- course to the poore and religious refugees who escaped out of France in the cruel persecution. 16. I went to Hampton Court to give his Majesty thanks for his late gracious favor, tho' it was but granting what was due. Whilst I was in the Council Chamber, came in some persons at the head of whom was a formal man with a large roll of parchment in his hand, being an Addresse (as he said, for he introduc'd it with a speech) of the people of Coventry giving his Majesty their greate acknowledg- ments for his granting a liberty of conscience ; he added that this was not the application of one party onely, but the unanimous addresse of > The Duke's share amounted to considerably more— it was said about ;^ 90,000. A medal ^^It^l^^. °° ^^'^ occasion, which is engrav'd in Mr. Evelyn's book on that subject. No, AXXVII. p. 151. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^j. Church of Encrland men, Presbyterians, Independents and Anabaptisli. to shew how extensive his Majesty's grace was, as taking in all parties to his indulgence and protection, which had taken away all dissentions and animosities, which would not onely unite them in bonds of Chris- tian charity, but exceedingly encourage their future industry, to the im- provement of trade, and spreading his Majesty's glory throughout the world ; and that now he had given to God his empire, God would es- tablish his ; with expressions of greate loyaltie and submission : and so he gave the roll to the King, which being return'd to him againe his Majesty caus'd him to read. The Addresse was short, but much to the substance of the Speech of their foreman, to whom the King, pulling off his hat, sayd, that what he had don in giving liberty of conscience, was, what was ever his judgment ought to be don ; and that as he would preserve them in their enjoyment of it during his reigne, so he would indeavour to settle it by Law, that it should never be alter'd by his successois. After this he gave them his hand to kisse. It was reported the subscribers were above looo. But this is not so remarkable as an Addresse of the weeke before (as I was assur'd by one present) of some of the Family of Love. His Majesty ask'd them what this worship consisted in, and how many their party might consist of ; they told him their custom was to reade the Scripture and then to preach, but did not give any farther account onely sayd that for the rest they were a sort of refin'd Quakers, but their number very small, not consisting, as they sayd, of above three- score in all, and those cheitly belonging to the Isle of Ely. 1 8. I din'd at Mr. Blathwaite's (2 miles from Hampton). This gentleman is Secretary of War, Clerk of the Counsel, &c. having rais'd himselfe by his industry from very moderate circumstances. He is a very proper, handsome person, and very dextrous in businesse, and besides all this, has married a greate fortune. His income by the Army, Counsel, and Secretary to the Committee of forraine plantations, brings him in above ^2000 per ann. 23. The privy scale for ^^6000 was pass'd to me, so that this tedious affaire was dispatch'd.— Hitherto a very windy and tempestuous sum- mer.— The French Sermons to the refugees were continued at Greene- wich Church. 19 July. I went to Wotton. In the way I din'd at Ashsted with my Lady Mordaunt. 5 Aug. I went to see Albury, now purchas'd by Mr. Finch (the King's Solicitor, and son to the late Lord Chancellor); I found the garden which I first designed for the Duke of Norfolk, nothing improv d. 15. I went to visite Lord Clarendon at Swallow-f^eld, where was my Lord Cornberyjust ariv'd from Denmark, whither he had acconi- panied the Prince of Denmark two months before, and novv come back. The miserable tyranny under which that nation lives he related to us i 312 MADE GOVERNOR OF ST. THOS. HOSPITAL. the King keeps them under by an army of 40,000 men, all Ge rmans, he not daring to trust his owne subjects. Notwithstanding this, the Danes are exceeding proud, the country very poore and miserable, 22. Returned home to Sayes Court from Wotton, having ben five weekes absent with my brother and friends, who entertained us very nobly. God be praised for his goodnesse, and this refreshment after my many troubles, and let his mercy and providence ever preserve me. ^men. 3 Sept. The Lord Mayor sent me an Officer with a Staff, to be one of the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital. Perseaction ragi?ig in France j divers churches there fir'd by light- ning, Priif;ts struck, consecrated hosts, &c. burnt and destroy'd, both at St. Malo's and Paris, at the grand procession on Corpus Christi day. 13. I went to Lambeth, and din'd with the Abp. After dinner I re- tired into the library, which I found exceedingly improv'd ; there are also divers rare manuscripts in a roome apart. 6 Oct. I was godfather to Sir John Chardin's sonn, christen'd at Greenewich Church, nam'd John. The Earle of Bath and Countesse of Carlisle, the other Sponsors. 29. An Anabaptist, Sir J. Peake, a very odd ignorant person, a me chanic I think, was Lord Mayor. The King and Queene, and Dadi ' the Pope's Nuncio, invited to feast at Guildhall A strange turne ol affaires, that those who scandaliz'd the Church of England as favourers of Popery, should publiqly invite an emissary from Rome, one who re- presented the very person of their Antichrist ! 10 Dec. My son was return'd out of Devon, where he had ben on a Commission from the Lords of the Treasury about a concealment of Land. 20. I went with my Lord Cheife Justice Herbert to see his house at Walton on Thames: ^ it is a barren place. To a very ordinary house he had buih a very handsome library, designing more building to it than the place deserves in my opinion. He desir'd my advice about laying out his gardens, &c. The next day we went to Wey bridge to see some pictures of the Dutchesse of Norfolk's, particularly the statue, or child in gremio, said to be of Mich. Angelo, but there are reasons to think it rather a copy, from some proportion in the figures ill taken. It was now expos'd to sale. 1688. 12 Jan. Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, being under very deplorable circumstances on account of his creditors, and especialy the King, I did my endeavor with the Lords of the Treasury to be favourable to him. 1 Count D'Ada, made afterwards a Cardinal for his services in this embassy. 2 This is a mistake ; the house was Oatlands in Weybridge. He followed the fortunes of Kmg James, who gave him his great seal. He was attainted, and Oatlands given to his brother Herbert. He published an apology for the judgment he had given in favour of the K-mgs dispensuig powers, which was answered by Mr. Atwood and Sir Robert Atkinf Manning and Bray's Hist, of Surrey, II. 786. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. My Lord Arran, eldest son to the Duke of Hamilton, being now 2\arried to Lady Ann Spencer, eldest daughter oi the Earle of Sunder- .'and, Lord President of the Council, I and my family had most glorious favours sent us, the wedding being celebrated with extraordinary splendour. 1 5. There was a solemne and particular Office us'd at our, and all the Churches of London and 10 miles round, for a thanksgiving to God, for her Majesty being with child. 22. This afternoone I went not to Church, being employed on a religious treatise I had undertaken.' Post annum 1588— 1660 — 1688, Annus MirabiUs Tertius.2 January 30. Being the Martyrdome day of K. Charles the First, our Curate made a florid ^ration against the murder of that excellent Prince, with an exhortation to obedience from the example of David, 1 Samuel 24, 6. 12 Feb. My daughter Evelyn going in the coach to visite in the Citty, a jolt (the doore being not fast shut) flung her quite out in suc\ manner as the hind wheeles passed over her a little above her knees. Yet it pleased God, besides the bruises of the wheeles, she had no other harme. In two days she was able to walke, and soone after perfectly well ; thro' God Almighty's greate mercy to an excellent wife and a most dutiful and discreete daughter-in-law. 17. I received the sad news of my niece Mountague's death at Woodcot on the 15th. 15 Mar. I gave in my account about the Sick and Wounded, )n order to have my quietus. , , ,j , • 23. Dr. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, who so lately publish d his extra- vagant treatise about transubstantiation, and lor abrogating the 1 est and Penal Laws, died. He was esteem'd a violent passionate, haugM man, but yet being press'd to declare for the Church oi Rome, he utterly refus'd it. A remarkable end. .1 ,f.c ^mnncrct The French Tyrant now finding he could make no P^ojlyte^ f "i^"?^ those Protestants of quality, and others, whom he ^ad caus^^^^ shut up in dungeons, and confin'd to nunneries and — ^^^'^^ave them, after so long trial, a general ^'^^^f .^"^^f '^^^^Jf^^^^ , the kingdom, but utterly taking away their ^^f;-^^^^^^^^ so that greate numbers came ^aily into England and om^ where they were received and reliev d -^^^7^;?^^^^^^^^^^ charity. This Providence and goodnesse of God to those constantly held out, did --^.^^^^^^^^^ to save who, to avoyd the V^^'^'-'^Zt ;^^^^^^ they had don, they their estates went to masse, that 'reflecting on ,.ew so affected m their — ^^^^^^^^^^^ 1 What this was does not appear ; but there are sev«-»i » This seems added after the page was trritt*-... ^ 514 CRUEL USAGE OF PROTESTANTS IN FRANCE. DR. STILLINGFLEET. they in greate numbers thro' all the French provinces, acquainted the Magistrates and Lieutenants that, being sorry for their apostacy, they were resolved to return to their old religion ; that they would go no more to masse, but peaceably assemble when they could, to beg pardon and worship God, but so without weapons as not to give the least um- brage of rebellion or sedition, imploring their pity and commiseration ; and accordingly meeting so from time to time, the dragoon missioners, Popish officers and priests, fell upon them, murder'd and put them to death, whoever they could lay hold on ; they without the least resist- ance embraced death, torture or hanging, with singing psalmes and praying for their persecutors to the last breath, yet still continuing the former assembling of themselves in desolate places, suffering with in- credible constancy, that thro' God's mercy they might obtain pardon for this lapse. Such examples of Christian behaviour have not ben seen since the primitive persecutions ; and doubtlesse God will do some signal worke in the end, if we can with patience and resignation hold out, and depend on his Providence. 24 Mar. I went with Sir Charles Littleton to Sheene, an house and estate given him by Lord Brouncker ; one who was ever noted for a hard, covetous, vicious man, but for his worldly craft and skill in gaming, few exceeded him. Coming to die, he bequeath'd all his land, house, furniture, &c. to Sir Charles, to whom he had no manner of re- lation, but an ancient friendship contracted at the famous siege of Col- chester, 40 yeares before. It is a pretty place, with fine gardens, and well planted, and given to one worthy of them, Sir Charles being an honest gentleman and souldier. He is brother to Sir Henry Littleton of Worcestershire, whose greate estate he is likely to inherit, his bro- ther being without children. They are descendants of the great lawyer of that name, and give the same arms and motto. He is married to one Mrs. Temple, who was formerly maide of honour to the lale Queene, a beautiful lady, and he has many fine children, so that none envy his good fortune. After dinner we went to see Sir William Temple's neere to it ; the most remarkable things are his orangerie and gardens, where the wall fruit trees arc most exquisitely nail'd and train'd, far better than 1 ever noted elsewhere. There are many good pictures, especialy of Vandyke's in, both these houses, and some few statues and small busts in the latter. From thence we went to Kew, to visite Sir Henry Capell's, whose orangerie and myrtelum are most beautifull and perfectly well kept. He was contriving very high palisados of reeds to shade his oranges during the summer, and painting those reeds in oil. 1 April. In the morning the first sermon was by Dr. Stillingfleet Dean of St. Paul's (at Whitehall) on 10 Luke 41, 42. The holy Com- munion foUow'd but was so inerrupted by the rude breaking in of mul- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^jj Bath and Wells, that the latter part of that holy office could hardly be heard, or the sacred elements be distributed without greate trouble The Pnncesse being come, he preach'd on 7 Mich. 8. 9. 10. describing the calamity of the Reform'd church of Judah under the Babylonian per- secution, for her sins, and God's dehvery of her on her repentance • that as Judah emerg'd so should the now Reform'd Church, wherever insulted and persecuted. He preach'd with his accustom'd action, zeal, and energy, so that people flock'd from all quarters to heare him. 15 April. A dry, cold, backward spring, easterly winds. The persecution still raging in France, multitudes of Protestants, and many very considerable and greate persons flying hither, produc'd a se- cond general contribution, the Papists, by God's Providence, as yet making small progress amongst us. 29. The weather was, till now, so cold and sharp, by an almost per- petual East wind which had continued many monthes, that there was little appearance of any Spring, and yet the Winter was very lavour- able as to frost and snow. 2 May. Went to London about my petition for allowances upon the account of Commissioner for sick and wounded in the former war with Holland. 8. His Majesty, alarm'd by the greate fleete of the Dutch (whilst we had a very inconsiderable one), went down to Chatham ; their fleete was well prepar'd, and out, before we were in any readinesse, or had any considerable number to have encounter'd them had there ben occa- sion to the great reproch of the Nation ; whilst being in profound peace, there was a mighty land army, which there was no neede of, and no force at sea, where only was the apprehension ; but the army was doubtless kept and increas'd in order to bring in and countenance Popery, the King beginning to discover his intentions, by many in- stances pursued by the Jesuits, against his first resolution to alter nothing in the Church establishment, so that it appear'd there can be no reliance on Popish promises. 18. The King injoyning the ministers to read his Declaration for giving liberty of conscience (as it was styl'd) in all the Churches oi England, this evening 6 Bishops, Bath and Wells (Thos. Ken), Peter- borough (Thos. White), Ely (Fr. Turner), Chichester (John Lake), St. Asaph (Wm. Lloyd), and Bristol (Sir John Trelawney, Bart.), in the name of all the rest of the Bishops, came to his Majesty to petition him that he would not impose the reading of it to the several congre- gations within their dioceses ; not that they were averse to the publish- ing of it for want of due tendernesse towards Dissenters, in relation to whom they should be willing to come to such a temper as should be thought fit, when that matter might be consider'd and settl'd in Parliar ment and Convocation: but that, the Declaration being founded on Sl6 REFUSAL OF THE BISHOPS TO HEED THE ROYAL INJUNCTIONS. such a dispensing power as might at pleasure set aside all Laws Eccle- siastical and Civil, it appear'd to them illegal, as it had done to the Parliament in 1661 and 1672, and that it was a point of such conse- quence that they could not so far make themselves parties to it, as the reading of it in Church in time of divine service amounted to. The King was so far incens'd at this addresse, that he with threaten- ing expressions, commanded them to obey him in reading it at their perils, and so dismiss'd them. 20. I went to White-hall Chapell, where, after the morning lessons, the Declaration was read by one of the Choir who us'd to read the chapters. I heare it was read in the Abby Church, Westminster, but almost universaly forborne throughout all London : the consequences of which a little time will shew. 25. All the discourse now was about the Bishops refusing to read the injunction for the abolition of the Test, &c. It seemes the injunc- tion came so crudely from the Secretary's office, that it was neither seal'd nor signed in forme, nor had any Lawyer ben consulted, so as the Bishops, who took all imaginable advice, put the Court to greate diffi- culties how to proceede against them. Greate were the consults, and a proclamation expected all this day, but nothing was don. The action of the Bishops was universaly applauded, and reconcil'd many ad- verse parties. Papists only excepted, who were now exceedingly per- plex'd, and violent courses were every moment expected. The report was that the Protestant secular Lords and Nobility would abett the Clergy. The Queene Dowager, hitherto bent on her returne into Portugal, now on the sudden, on allegation of a greate debt oweing her by his Majesty disabling her, declares her resolution to stay. News ariv'd of the most prodigious earthquake that was almost ever fcard of, subverting the Citty of Lima and country in Peru, with a teadfull inundation following it. 8 June. This day the Archbishop of Canterbury, with the Bishops Ely, Chichester, St. Asaph, Bristol, Peterborough, and Bath and Wells, were sent from the Privy Council prisoners to the Tower, for re- fusing to give baile for their appearance, on their not reading the Declaration for liberty of conscience ; they refus'd to give baile, as it would have prejudic'd their Peerage. The concern of the people for them was wonderfuU, infinite crouds on their knees begging their bless- ing, and praying for them as they pass'd out of the barge along the '''ower-wharfe. 10. A yotmg Prince borne, which will cause disputes. About 2 o'clock we heard the Tower ordnance discharg'd, and the |:lls ringing for the birth of a Prince of Wales. This was very sur- prising, it having ben universally given out that her Majesty did not /ook till the next moneth. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 517 13 I went to the Tower to see the Bishops, visited the Abp sjid Bps. of Ely, St. Asaph, and Bath and Wells. 14. Din'd with my Lord Chancellor. 15 June. Being the first day of Term, the Bishops were brought to Westminster on Habeas Corpus, when the Indictment was read, and they were called on to plead ; their Council objected that the Warrant was illegal, but after long debate it was over-ruled, and they pleaded. The Court then offered to take bail for their appearance, but this they refused, and at last were dismissed on their own recognizances to ap- peare that day fortnight ; the Abp. in 200/. the Bishops 100/. each. 29. They appeared ; the trial lasted from 9 in the morning to past 6 in the evening, when the Jury retired to consider of their verdict, and the Court adjourned to 9 the next morning. The Jury were locked up till that time, 1 1 of them being for an acquittal, but one (Arnold a brewer) would not consent. At length he agreed with the others. The Cheif Justice W^ right behaved with great moderation and civility to the Bishops. Alibone, a Papist, was strongly against them ; but Hollovvay and Powell being of opinion in their favour, they were acquitted. When this was heard, there was great rejoicing ; and there was a lane of people from the King's Bench to .the water side, on their knees, as the Bishops pass'd and repass'd, to beg their blessing. Bonfires were made that night, and bells rung, which was taken very ill at Court, and an appearance of neere 60 Earls and Lords, &c. on the bench, did not a little comfort them, but indeede they were all along full of comfort and cheerfull. Note, they denied to pay the Lieutenant of the Tower (Hales, who us'd them very surlily) any fees, alledging that none were due. 17. Was a day of Thanksgiving in London and 10 miles about for the young Prince's birth ; a form of prayer made for the purpose by the Bp. of Rochester. The night was solemnized with bonfires and other fire-works, &c. 2 July. The two Judges Holloway and Powell were displaced. 3. I went with Dr. Godolphin and his brother Sir William to St. Alban's to see a library he would have bought of the widow of Dr. Cartwrite, late Archdeacon of St. Alban's, a very good collection of books, especialy in divinity ; he was to give £300 for them. Havmg seen the ^^reafe Church, now newly repair'd by a public contribution, we return'd home. . 8. One of the King's Chaplains preach'd before the Princess on 14 Exodus 13, ' Stand still and behold the salvation of the Lord, which he applied so boldly to the present conjuncture of the Church of England, that more could scarce be said to encourage desponders. The Popish Priests were not able to carry their cause against their learned adversaries, who confounded them both by their disputes and their writings. 5l8 DISCONTENT OF THE NATION. THE FRINGE OF ORANGE. 12 July. The Camp now began at Hounslcw, but the Nation was in high discontent. Col. Titus, Sir Hen. Vane (son of him who was executed for his treason), and some other of the Presbyterians and Independent party, were sworne of the Privy Council, from hopes of thereby diverting that party from going over to the Bishops and Church of England, which now they began to do, foreseeing the designe of the Papists to descend and take in their most hateful of heretics (as they at other times expressed them to be), to effect their own ends, now evident ; the utter extirpation of the Church of England first, and then the rest would follow. 17 July. This night the Fireworks were plaied off, that had ben prepar'd for the Queene's up-sitting. We saw them to great advantage ; they were very fine, and cost some thousands of pounds, in the pyramids, statues, &c. but were spent too soone for so long a preparation. 26. I went to Lambeth to visit the Archbishop whom I found very cheerfuU. 10 August. Dr. Tenison now told me there would suddenly be some greate thing discover'd. This was the Prince of Orange intending to come over. 15. I went to Althorp in Northamptonshire, 70 miles. A coach and 4 horses took up me and my sonn at White-hall, and carried us to Dunstable, where we ariv'd and din'd at noone, and from thence another coach and 6 horses carried us to Althorp, 4 miles beyond Northampton, where we ariv'd by 7 o'clock that evening. Both these coaches were hir'd for me by that noble Countesse of Sunderland, who invited me to her house at Althorp, where she entertain'd me and my sonn with extraordinary kindness ; I stay'd till the Thursday. 18. Dr. Jeffryes, the minister of Althorp, who was my Lord's chaplain when Ambassador in France, preach'd the shortest discourse I ever heard ; but what was defective in the amplitude of his sermon, he had supplied in the largeness and convenience of the Parsonage house, which the Dr. (who had at least ;^6oo a year in spiritual advancement) had new built, and made fit for a person of quality to live in, with gardens and all accommodation according therewith. My Lady carried us to see Lord Northampton's seat, a very strong large house, built with stone, not altogether modern. They were en- larging the garden, in which was nothing extraordinary, except the iron gate opening into the Park, which indeede was very good work, wrought in flowers, painted with blue and gilded. There is a noble walke of elmes towards the front of the house, by the bowling greene. I was not in any roome of the house besides a lobby looking into the garden, where my Lord and his new Countesse (Sir Ste. Fox's daughter, whom I had knowne from a child) entertain'd the Countesse and her daughter the Countesse of Arran (newly married to the son of the THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 5,9 Duke of Hamilton) with so little good grace, and so duUy, that oui visite was very short, and so we return'd to Althorp, twelve miles distant. The house, or rather palace, at Althorp, is a noble uniform pile in form ol a half H, built of brick and freestone, ballustred and a la mo- denies the hall is well, the staircase excellent ; the roomes of state, gallerys, offices and furniture, such as may become a greate Prince. It is situate in the midst of a garden, exquisitely planted and kept, and all this in a parke wall'd in with hewn stone, planted with rows and walkes of trees, canals and fish ponds, and stor'd with game. And what is above all this, govern'd by a lady, who without any shew of sollicitude, keepes every thing in such admirable order, both within and without, from the garret to the cellar, that I do not believe there is any in this nation, or in any other, that exceedes her in such exact order, without ostentation, but substantially greate and noble. The meanest servant is lodg'd so neat and cleanly ; the service at the several tables, the good order and decency — in a word, the intire oeconomy, is perfectly becoming a wise and noble person. She is one who for her distinguished esteeme of me from along and worthy friendship, I must ever honour arid cele- brate. I wish from my soul the Lord her husband (whose parts and abilities are otherwise conspicuous) was as worthy of her, as by a fatal apostacy and court ambition he has made himself unworthy. This is what she deplores, and it renders her as much affliction as a lady of greate soul and much prudence is capable of. The Countesse of Bristol her mother, a grave and honourable lady, has the comfort of seeing her daughter and grandchildren under the same oeconomy, especialy Mr. Charles Spencer,^ a youth of extraordinary hopes, very learned for his age, and ingenious, and under a governor of greate worth. Happy were it could as much be said of the elder brother, the Lord Spencer, who, rambling about the world, dishonours both his name and his fa- mily, adding sorrow to sorrow to a mother who has taken all imagin- able care of his education. There is a daughter very young married to the Earl of Clancartie, who has a greate and faire estate m Ireland, but who yet gives no greate presage of worth,-so universally contami- nated is the youth of this corrupt and abandon'd age ! But this is againe recompenc'd by my Lord Arran, a sober and worthy gentleman, who has espous'd the Lady Ann Spencer, a young lady of admirable accomplishments and virtue. , , u • ^ 23. I left this noble place and conversation, my lady having pro- vided carriages to convey us back in the same manner as went and a dinner being prepared at Dunstable against our arrival ^ o^^hamp^ ton, having ben lately burnt and re-edified, is now become a town that I The eldest son dying without issue this Charles succee^^^^^^^ m..rrylng to his second wife one of the daughters and at length coheirs J Maxlboiough, his son by her succeeded to that tiUc. 520 ECCLESIASTICAL COMMISSION. THE COURT IN CONSTERNATION. for the beauty of the buildings, especialy the church and town-house, may compare with the neatest in Italy itselfe. Dr. Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, wrote a very honest and handsome letter to the Commissioners Ecclesiastical, excusing himselfe from sit- ting any longer among them, he by no meanes approving of their prosecuting the Cleargy who refus'd to reade the Declaration for liberty of conscience, in prejudice of the Church of England. The Dutch make extraordinary preparations both at sea and land, which with the very small progresse Popery makes among us, puts us to many difficulties. The Popish Irish soldiers commit many murders ^.nd insults ; the whole Nation disaffected, and in apprehensions. After long trials of the doctors to bring up the little Prince of Wales by hand (so many of her Majesty's children having died infants) not succeeding, a country nurse, the wife of a tile-maker, is taken to give the child suck. 1 8 Sept. I went to London, where I found the Court in the utmost consternation on report of the Prince of Orange's landing, which put White-hall into so panic a feare, that I could hardly believe it possible to find such a change. Writs were issued in order to a Parliament, and a declaration to back the good order of elections, with greate professions of maintaining the Church of England, but without giving any sort of satisfaction to the people, who now shew'd their high discontent at several things in the Government. Earthquakes had utterly demolish'd the ancient Smyrna, and several other places in Greece, Italy, and even in the Spanish Indies, fore- runners of greater calamities. God Almighty preserve his Church and all who put themselves under the shadow of his wings, till these things be over-past ! 30. The Court in so extraordinary a consternation on assurance of the Prince of Orange's intention to land, that the writs sent forth for a Parliament were recalled. 7 Oct. Dr. Tenison preach'd at St. Martines, on 2 Tim. 3. 16. shew- ing the Scriptures to be our only rule of faith, and its perfection above all traditions. After which neere 1000 devout persons partook of the Communion. This sermon was cheifly occasion'd by a Jesuite, who in the Masse-house on the Sunday before had disparag'd the Scripture and rail'd at our translation, which some present contradicting, they puird him out of the Pulpit, and treated him very coarsely, insomuch that it was like to create a greate disturbance in the Citty. Hourly expectation of the Prince of Orange's invasion heighten'd to that degree that his Majesty thought fit to abrogate the Commission for the dispensing power (but retaining his own right still to dispense with all laws) and restore the ejected Fellows of Magdalen College, Oxford. In the mean time he call'd over 50CX) Irish, and 4000 Scots, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. ^21 and continued to remove Protestants and put in Papists at Port.mnn.K and other places of trust, and retained the'jesuites ab ut ^^^^^^^^ ng the universal discontent. It brought peopleto so despera^; a passe that they seem'd passionately to long for and desire the landing of S Prince whom they look'd on to be their deliverer from Popish fyranny praying mcessantly for an East wind, which was said to be the only ^^P^^^^^^" ^'ith a numerous army ready to make a descent. To such a strange temper, and unheard-of in former times was this poore Nation reduc'd, and of which I was an eye-witness The apprehension was (and with reason) that his Majesty's forces would neither at land or at sea oppose them with that vigour requisite to re- pel the invaders. The late imprison'd Bishops were now call'd to reconcile matters and the Jesuites hard at worke to foment confusion among the Pro' testants by their usual tricks. A letter was sent to the Abp. of Can- terbury „ informing him, from good hands, of what was contriving by them. A paper of what the Bishops advis'd his Majesty was pubhsh'd. The Bishops were injoin'd to prepare a form of prayer against the * By Mr. Evelyn. The letter was as follows : • My Lord. The honor and reputation which your Grace's piety, prudence, and signal courage, have justly merited and obtain'd not onely from the Sons of the Church of England, but even universaly from those Protestants amongst us who are Dissenters from her disci- pline ; God Almighty's providence and blessing upon your Grace's vigilancy and extraordinary endeavors will not suffer to be diminish'd in this conjuncture. The conversation I now and then have with some in place, who have the opportunity of knowing what is doing in the most seacret recesses and cabals of our Churches adversaries, obliges me to acquaint you, that the calling of your Grace and the rest of the Lords Bishops to Court, and what has there of late ben requir'd of you, is onely to create a jealousie and suspicion amongst well-meaning people of such compliances as it is certaine they have no cause to apprehend. The Plan of this and of all that which is to follow of seeming favour thence, is wholly drawn by the Je- suites, who are at this time more than ever buisy to make divisions amongst us, all other arts and mechanisms having hitherto failed them. They have, with other things, contriv'd that your Lordships the Bishops should give his Majesty advice separately, without calling any of the rest of the Peeres, which, tho' maliciously suggested, spreads generaly about the Towne. I do not at all question but your Grace will speedily prevent the operation of this venome, and that you will thinke it highly necessary so to do, that your Grace is also injoyn'd to compose a form of prayer, wherein the Pr. of O. is expressly to be named the Invader : of this I pre- sume not to say any thing ; but for as much as in all the Declarations, &c. which have hitherto been published in pretended favour of the Church of England, there is not once the least mention of the Reformed ox Protestant Religion, but onely of the Church of England as by Law established, which Church the Papists tell us is the Church of Rome, which is (say they) the Catholic Church of England that onely is establish'd by Law : the C. of England in the Reformed sense so established is but an usurp'd authority. The antiquity of tJiat would by these words be explained, and utterly defeate this false and subdolous construction, and take off all exceptions whatsoever ; if in all extraordinary offices, upon these occasions, the words Reformed ^v^^ Protestant were added to that of the Church of England by Lav, established. And whosoever threatens to invade or come against us, to the prejudice of that Church, in God's name, be they Dutch or Irish, let us heartily pray and fight against them My Lord, this is, I confesse, a bold, but honest period ; and though I am well assured that your Grace is perfectly acquainted with all this before, and therefore may blanie my imperti- nence, as that dos aXXoV'o.». 532 CORONATION OF WILLIAM AND MARY. AT LAMBETH PALACE. Parliament's unmindfuUness of Ireland, which is likely to prove a sa«( (^mission. The Confederates beat the French out of the Palatinate, which they had most barbarously ruined. II April. I saw the Procession to and from the Abby Church oi Westminster, with the greate Feast in Westminster Hall, at the Coro- nation of K. William and Queen Mary. What was different from former Coronations was some alteration in the Coronation oath. Dr. Burnet, now made Bishop of Sarum, preach'd with greate applause. The Parhament men had scaffolds and places which took up one whole side of the Hall. When the King and Queen had din'd, the ceremonie of the Champion, and other services by tenure were perform'd. The Parliament men were feasted in the Exchequer chamber, and had each of them a gold [Coronation] medal given them, worth five and forty shillings. On one side were the effigies of the King and Queene inclining one to the other ; on the reverse was Jupiter throwing a bolt at Phaeton, the words *Ne totus absumatur;' which was but dull, seeing they might have had out of the poet something as apposite. The sculpture was very meane. Much of the splendor of the proceeding was abated by the absence of divers who should have contributed to it, there being but five Bishops, foure Judges (no more being yet sworn), and severall noble- men and greate ladys wanting ; the feast, however, was magnificent. The next day the House of Commons went and kiss'd their new Majesties' hands in the Banquetting House. 12. I went with the Bp. of St. Asaph to visit my Lord of Canterbury at Lambeth, who had excus'd himselfe from officiating at the Corona- tion, which was perform'd by the Bp. of London, assisted by the Abp. of York. We had much private and free discourse with his Grace concerning severall things relating to the Church, there being now a Bill of Comprehension to be brought from the Lords to the Commons. I urg'd that when they went about to reform some particulars in the Liturgy, Church discipline. Canons, &c. the baptizing in private houses without necessity might be reform'd, as likewise so frequent burials in Churches ; the one proceeding much from the pride of women, bring- ing that into custom which was only indulg'd in case of imminent dan- ger, and out of necessity during the Rebellion, and persecution of the Clergy in our late civil wars ; the other from the avarice of ministers, who, in some opulent parishes, made almost as much of permission to bury in the chancel and the church, as of their livings, and were paid with considerable advantage and gifts for baptizing in chambers. To this they heartily assented, and promis'd their endeavour to get it re- form'd, utterly disliking both practices as novel and indecent. We discours'd hkewise of the greate disturbance and prejudice it might cause- should the new oath, now on the anvil, be impos'd on any, THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 533 save stich as were in new office, without any retrospect to such as either had no office, or had ben long in office, who it was hkely would have some scruples about taking a new oath, having already sworn fidelity to the government as establish'd by law. This we all knew to be the case of my Lord Abp. of Canterbury, and some other persons who were not so fully satisfied with the Convention making it an abdication of K. James, to whom they had sworn allegiance. King James was now certainly in Ireland with the Marshall d'Es- trades whom he made a Privy Counsellor ; and who caus'd the King to remove the Protestant Counsellors, some whereof, it seems, had conti- nued to sit, telling him that the King of France his master wcruld never assist him if he did not immediately do it, by which it is apparent how the poor Prince is manag'd by the French. Scotland declares for K. William and Qu. Mary, with the reasons of their setting aside K. James, not as abdicating, but forfeiting his right by mal-administration ; they proceeded with much more caution and prudence than we did, who precipitated all things to the greate reproch of the Nation, all which had ben manag'd by some crafty ill-principled men. The new Privy Council have a Republican spirit, manifestly undermining all future succession of the Crown and prosperity of the Church of England, which yet I hope they will not be able to accom- plish so soone as they expect, tho' they get into all the places of trust and of profit. 21 April. This was one of t ' c most seasonable Springs, free from the usual sharp East winds, that I have observ'd since the year 1660 (the year of the Restoration) which was much such an one. 26. I heard the lawyers plead before the Lords the writ of error in the judgment of Ocites, as to the charge against him of perjurie, which after debate they referr'd to the answer of HoUoway, &c. who were his Judges. I then went with the Bp. of St. Asaph to the Abp. at Lam- beth, where they enter'd into discourse concerning the final destruction of Antichrist, both concluding that the third trumpet and vial were now pouring out. My Lord St. Asaph consider'd the killing of the two witnesses, to be the utter destruction of the Cevennes Protestants by the French and Duke of Savoy, and the other the Waldenses and Py- renean Christians, who by all appearance from good history had kep the primitive faith from the very Apostles' time till now The doubt his Grace suggested was, whether it could be "^^^e evident that the present persecution had made so great an havoc 0 those faitWd^^^ pie as of the other, and whether there were not yet ^^^^f — ^^^^^^ in being, who met together, it being stated from the ext i Apoc that they should both be slain together. They both much app ov ^ of Mn Mede's way of interpretation, and that he only [^^^^ '^J'^'^'l^^^^^^ hastily on the K. of Sweden's (G^stavus Adolphus) success ^^^^^ many. They agreed that it would be good to employ some mtelligent 534 KING JAMES IN IRELAND. THE SIEGE OF LONDONDERRY. French minister to travel as far as the Pyrenees to understand the present state of the Church there, it being a country where hardly any one travels. 26 April. There now came certain news that K. James had not only landed in Ireland, but that he had surpriz'd Londonderry, and was become master of that kingdom, to the greate shame of our Govern- ment, who had ben so often solicited to provide against it by timely succour, and which they might so easily have don. This is a terrible beginning of more troubles, especialy should an army come thence into Scotland, people being generally disaffected here and every where else, so that the sea and land men would scarce serve without compulsion. A new oath was now fabricating for all the Cleargy to take, of obe- dience to the present Government, in abrogation of the former oaths of allegiance, which it is foreseene many of the Bishops and others of the Cleargy will not take. The penalty is to be the losse of their dig- nitie and spiritual preferment. This is thought to have ben driven on by the Presbyterians, our new governors. God in mercy send us help, and direct the counsels to his glory and good of his Church ! Public matters went very ill in Ireland ; confusion and dissention amongst ourselves, stupidity, inconstancy, emulation, the governors employing unskilfull men in greatest offices, no person ot public spirit and ability appearing, threaten us with a very sad prospect of what may be the conclusion, without God's infinite mercy. A fight by Admiral Herbert with the French, he imprudently setting on them in a creek as they were landing men in Ireland, by which we came off with greate slaughter and little honour. So strangely negli- gent and remisse were we in preparing a timely and sufficient fleete. The Scots Commissioners offer the Crowne to the 7i€W King and Queene on conditions. — Act of Poll-money came forth, sparing none. — Now came forth the act of Indulgence for the Dissenters, but not exempting them paying dues to the Church of England Cleargy, or serving in office according to law, with severall other clauses.— A most splendid Ambassy from Holland to congratulate the K. and Queene on their accession to the Crowne. 4 June. A solemn Fast for success of the Fleete, &c. 6. I din'd with the Bishop of Asaph ; Monseur Capellus, the learned son of the most learned Ludovicus, presented to him his Father's works not publish'd till now. 7. I visited the Abp. of Canterbury, and stay'd with him till about seven o'clock. He read to me the Pope's excommunication of the French King. 9. Visited Dr. Burnet, now Bishop of Sarum ; got him to let Mr. Kneller draw his picture. 16. King James's Declaration was now dispers'd, offering pardon to THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN 535 all, if on his landing, or mMn 20 days after, they should return ta their obedience. Our fleete not yet at sea, thro' some prodigious sloth, and men mind- ing onely their present interest ; the French riding masters at sea, taking many greate prizes to our wonderfull reproch. No certaine newes from Ireland; various reports of Scotland ; discontents at home. The King of Denmark at last joins with the confederates, and the two Northern Powers are reconcil'd. The East India Company likely to be dissolved by Parliament for many arbitrary actions. Gates acquitcd of perjurie, to all honest men's admiration. 20. Newes of a Plot discovered, on which divers were sent to the Tower and secured. 23. An extraordinary drowth, to the threatening of greate wants as to the fruits of the earth. 8. I sat foe my picture to Mr. Kneller, for Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, holding my * Sylva' in my right hand \ It was on his long and earnest request, and is plac'd in his library. Kneller never painted in a more masterly manner. II. I din'd at Lord Clarendon's, it being his lady's wedding-day, when about 3 in the afternoone, there was an unusual and violent storm of thunder, rain, and wind ; many bo?ts on the Thames were over- whelm'd, and such was the impetuosity of the wind as to carry up the waves in billows and spouts most dreadful! to behoM, rooting up trees and ruining some houses. The Countess of Sunderland afterwards told me that it extended as far as Althorp at the very time, which is 70 miles from London. It did no harm at Deptford, but at Greenwich it did much mischeife. . . , -i 16 July. I went to Hampton Court about buisinesse, the Council being there. A greate apartment and spacious garden with fountaines was beginning in the parke at the head of the canal. , , 19. The Marshall de Schomberg went now as General towards Ireland, to the reliefe of Londonderry. Our fleete ^^^11 1^^];^ The Confederates passing the Rhine, besiege Bonn and M^ obtain a passage into France. A S-^^^^ 7^^^.^ taking and burning Precop. A new rebel against the ^^^^'^^^l the destruction of that tyranny. All Europe in armes against France, and hardly to be found in history so ^^^^^^''^^ ,f/f " j^^^'exempt the The Convention (or Parliament as some call d ''l^''^^^;^^:^^^^^ Duke of Hanoverfromthe succession to Crowne, wh Mh^^^^^^ to confine to the present new ^-^^J^^,^^^^^ Denmark, who is so monstrously swollen that its ooul. being thought with child may ^^^X* -^^^ happy family of the Stuarts seems to be extm^uisning, . Now at Wouon. A copy of it wasgivcn by .he late Sir Frcd.Hclc Evcl.. to the Ea.. 0. Harcourt a few years ago. 536 THE SCOTS VOTE DOWN EPISCOPACY. I LIVE IN SOHO SQUARE. government is likely to be next set up is unknown, whether regal and by election, or otherwise, the Republicans and Dissenters from the Church of England evidently looking that way. The Scots have now againe voted down Episcopacy there. — Create discontents thro' this nation at the slow proceedings of the King, and the incompetent instruments and officers he advances to the greatest and most necessary charges. 23 August. Came to visite me Mr. Firmin ^ 25. Hitherto it has ben a most seasonable summer. — Londonderry reliev'd after a brave and wonderfull holding out. 21 September. I went to visit the Abp. of Canterbury since his suspension, and was receiv'd with greiUe kindness. — A dreadful fire happen'd in Southwark. 2 Oct. Came to visite us the Marquiss de Ruvignd, and one Monsieur le Coque. a French refugee, who left greate riches for his religion; a very learned, civil person ; he married the sister of the Dutchess de la Force. — Ottobone, a Venetian Cardinal, 80 yeares old, made Pope 31. My birth-day, being now 69 years old. Blessed Father, who hast prolonged my years to this great age, and given me to see so great and wonderfull revolutions, and preserv'd me amidst them to this moment, accept I beseech thee the continuance of my prayers and thankfull acknowledgments, and grant me grace to be working out my salvation, and redeeming the time, that thou mayest be glorified by me here, and my immortal soul sav'd whenever thou shalt call for it, to perpetuate thy praises to all eternity, in that heavenly kingdom where there are no more changes or vicissitudes, but rest and peace, and joy and consummate felicity for ever. Grant this, O heavenly Father, for the sake of Jesus thine only Son and our Saviour. Amen. 5 Nov. The Bishop of St. Asaph, Lord Almoner, preach'd before the King and Queene, the whole discourse being an historical narrative of the Church of England's severall deliverances, especialy that ol this anniversary, signaliz'd by being also the birth-day of the Pr. of Orange, his marriage (which was on the 4th) and his landing at Torbay this day. There was a splendid ball and other rejoicings. 10. After a very wet season, the Winter came on severely. 17. Much wet, without frost, yet the wind North and Easterly. — A Convocation of the Cleargy meet about a Reformation of our Liturgy, Canons, &c. obstructed by others of the Cleargy. 27. I went to London with my family to winter at Soho in the great square. I He was a man of the most amiable character and most unbounded charity. He was a great friend of Sir Robert Clayton, who after his death erected a monument for him in a walk which he had formed at Sir Robert's seat at Marden in Surrey. He was very fond of gar- dens, and so far of congenial spirit with Mr. Evelyn. He was an Unitarian, but lived in inti- macy with many of the most eminent clergy. His life was printed in a smiU volume. ^Prter Otthobonus succeeded Innocent XI. as Pope in 1689, by the title of Alexander VII L THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 537 1690. II Jan. This night there was a most extraordinary storme of wind, accompanied with snow and sharp weather ; it did greate harme in many places, blowing down houses, trees, &c. killing many people. It began about 2 in the morning, and lasted till 5, being a kind of hurricane, which mariners observe have begun of late yearesto come Northward. This Winter has ben hitherto extremely wet, warm, and windy. 12. There was read at St. Ann's Church an exhortatory letter to the Cleargy of London from the Bishop, together with a Brief for reliev- ing the distressed Protestants, the Vaudois, who fled from the persecu- tion of the French and Duke of Savoy, to the Protestant Cantons of Swisserland. The Parliament was unexpectedly prorogued to 2d April, to the dis- content and surprise of many members, who be%ig exceeding averse to the setthng of any thing, proceeding with animosities, multiplying ex- ceptions against those whom they pronounc'd obnoxious, and pro- ducing as universal a discontent against K. William and themselves, as there was before against King James. — The new King resolv'd on an expedition into Ireland in person.— About 150 of the members who were more of the Royal party, meeting at a feast at the Apollo Tavern near St. Dunstan's, sent some of their company to the King, to assure him of their service ; he return'd his thanks, advising them to repaire to their severall counties and preserve the peace during his absence, and assuring them that he would be steady to his resolution of dclending the Laws and Religion establish'd.— The great Lords suspected to ha\'e counsell'd this prorogation, universally denied it. However, it was believ'd the cheife adviser was the Marquiss of Carmarthen,^ who now seem'd to be most in favor. 2 Feb. The Parliament was dissolv'd by proclamation, and another call'd to meet the 20 of March. This was a second surprize to the former Members ; and now the Court Party, or, as they call themselves, Church of England, are making their interests m the country. I he Marquiss of Halifax lays down his office of Privy Seal, and pretends ^"iT'-The Dutchess of Monmouth's Chaplain preach'd at St Martin's an excellent discourse, exhorting to peace and sanctity, it being now the time of very great division and dissention in the nation; first^ amongst it Churchmen, amongst whom the moderate -d - were for a speedy reformation of divers ^^jngs, which Jt w^ might be made in our Liturgy, for the mviting f ,f isse^^rs^^^ o^^^^^^^ more stiff and rigid, were for no condescension ^^j' ^^^^^^^^^^^ P,\^, phlets were published everyday ^/^^f.^i^^^^^^^^ forc'd for the present to suspend any furtner progress. ' Osborne. Lord Danby. afterwards Duke of Leed.^ 538 KING WILLIAM GOES TO IRELAND. KENSINGTON. PEPYS. fierce and greate carousing about being elected in the new Parliament —The King persists in his intention of going in person for Ireland, whither the French arc sending supplies to K. James, and we the Dan- ish horse to Schomberg. 19. I din'd with the Marquiss cf Carmarthen (late Lord Danby), where was Lieutenant General Douglas, a very considerate and sober commander, going for Ireland. He related to us the exceeding neglect of the English souldiers, suffering severely for want of cloaths and ne- cessaries this Winter, exceedingly magnifying their courage and bravery during all their hardships. There din'd also Lord Lucas, Lieutenant oi the Tower, and the Bp. of St. Asaph. — The privy scale was againe put into commission, Mr. Cheny (who married my kinswoman Mrs. Pier- point), Sir Thonms Knatchbull, and Sir P. W. Poultney. — The impu- dence of both sexes was now become so greate and so universal, per- sons of all ranks keeping their courtesans publicly, that the King had lately directed a letter to the Bishops to order their Cleargy to preach against that sin, swearing, &c. and to put the Ecclesiastical Laws in execution without any indulgence. 25 Feb. I went to Kensington, which King William had bought of Lord Nottingham, and alter'd, but was yet a patch'd building, but with the garden, however, it is a very sweete villa, having to it the Park and a straight new way through this Park. 7 March. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, late Secretary to the Admiralty, where was that excellent Shipwright and Seaman (for so he had ben and also a Commissioner of the Navy) Sir Anthony Deane. Amongst other discourse, and deploring the sad condition of our Navy, as now govern'd by unexperienc'd men since this Revolution, he mention'd what exceeding advantage we of this nation had by being the first who built Fregats, the first of which ever built was that vessell which was afterwards call'd The Constant Warwick, and was the work of Pet of Chatham, for a trial of making a vessell that would sail swiftly ; it was built with low decks, the guns lying neere the water, and was so light and swift of sailing, that in a short time he told us she had, ere the Dutch war was ended, taken as much money from privateers as would have laden her ; and that more such being built did in a yeare or two scour the Channel from those of Dunkirk and others which had ex- ceedingly infested it. He added that it would be the best and onely infallible expedient to be masters of the sea, and able to destroy the greatest navy of any enemy, if instead of building huge greate ships and second and third rates, they would leave off building such high decks, which were for nothing but to gratify Gentlemen Commanders, who must have all their effeminate accommodations, and for pomp ; that it would be the ruin of our fleets if such persons v/ere continued in com- mand, they neither having experience nor being capable of learning, because they would not submit to the fatigue and inconvenience which THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. trs.^l7cZ^^^ ^° otherwise use. lull swil fregats. These being to encounter the greatest ships would be able to protect set on, and bring off, those who should mana^ he fire-ships; and the Pnnce who should first store himselfe with mm bers of such fire-ships would, thro' the help and countenance of suTh fregats be able to rum the greatest force of such vast ships that could be sent to sea, by the dexterity of working those light, swift ships to guard the fire-ships. He concluded there would shortly be no other method of sea-fight, and that great ships and men of war, however stord with guns and men, must submit to those who should encounter them with far less number. He represented to us the dreadfull effect of these fire-ships ; that he continually observed in our late maritime war with the Dutch, that when an enemy's fire-ship approach'd, the most valiant commander and common sailors were in such consterna- tion that tho' then, of all times, there was most need of the guns boomes, &c. to keep the mischeif off, they grew pale and astonish'd, as if of a quite other mean soul, that they slunk about, forsook their guns and work as if in despair, every one looking about to see which way they might get out of their ship, tho' sure to be drown'd if they did so. This he said was likely to prove hereafter the method oi sea-fight, likely to be the misfortune of England if they continued to put Gentle- men Commanders over experienc'd Seamen, on account of their igno- rance, effeminacy and insolence. 9 March. I din'd at the Bp. of St. Asaph's, Almoner to the new Queene, with the famous Lawyer Sir George Mackenzie (late Lord Advocate of Scotland), against whom both the Bishop and myselfe had written and publish'd books, both now most friendly reconcii'd He related to us many particulars of Scotland, the present sad condition of it, the inveterate hatred which the Presbyterians shew to the Family of the Stewarts, and the exceeding tyranny of those bigots who acknow- ledge no superior on earth, in civil or divine matters, maintaining that the people onely have the right of government ; their implacable hatred to the Episcopal Order and Church of England. He observ'd that the first Presbyter dissents from our discipline were introduc'd by the Jesuites order, about the 20. of Queene Eliz., a famous Jesuite amongst them faining himselfe a Protestant, and who was the first who began to pray extempory, and brought in that which they since call'd, and are still so fond of, praying by the Spirit. This Jesuite remained many yeares before he was discover'd, afterwards died in Scotland, where he was buried at having yet on his monument, ' J^osa mter spinas. II March. I went againe to see Mr. Charleton's curiosities both of art and nature, and his full and rare collection of medails, which taken 1 Sir George had written in praise of a Private Life, which Mr Evelyn answered ^ a book In praise of Public Life and Active Employment ; see the Introduction to vol. I. As to th« Bishop's Book, see Biog. Brit, articles Lloyd and Mackenzie. 540 THE CITY CHARTER RESTORED. THE VAUDOIS PROTESTANTS. altogether, in all kinds, is doubtless one of the most perfect assemblage of rarities that can be any where scene. I much admir'd the contor- sions of the Thea roote, which was so perplex'd, large, and intricate, and withall hard as box, that it was wonderfull to consider.— The French have landed in Ireland. l6. A public Fast. 24 May. Citty Charter restor'd. Divers exempted from pardon. 4 June. King William set forth on his Irish expedition, leaving the Queene Regent. 10. Mr. Pepys read to me his remonstrance, shewing with what malice and injustice he was suspected with Sir Anth. Deane about the timber of which the 30 ships were built by a late Act of Parliament, with the exceeding danger which the fleete would shortly be in, by rea- son of the tyranny and incompetency of those who now manag'd the Admiralty and affaires of the Navy, of which he gave an accurate state, and shew'd his greate ability. 18. Fast-day. Visited the Bp. of St. Asaph ; he and his comp. conversation was on the Vaudois in Savoy, who had ben thought so neere destruction and final extirpation by the French, being totally given up to slaughter, so that there were no hopes for them ; but now it pleas'd God that the Duke of Savoy, who had hitherto join'd with the French in their persecution, was now press'd by the French to deliver up (Saluce) and Turin as cautionary towns, on suspicion that he might at last come into the Confederacy of the German Princes, did seacretly concert measures with, and afterwards declar'd for them. He then invited these poore people from their dispersion amongst the moun- tains whither they had fled, and restor'd them to their country, their dweUings, and the exercise of their religion, and begg'd pardon for the ill usage they had receiv'd, charging it on the cruelty of the French who forc'd him to it. These being the remainder of those persecuted Christians which the Bishop of St. Asaph had so long affirm'd to be the 2 witnesses spoken of in the Revelation, who should be kill'd and brought to life againe, it was look'd on as an extraordinary thing that this prophesying Bishop should persuade two fugitive Ministers of the Vaudois to returne to their country, and furnish them, with £20 towards their journey, at that very time when nothing but universal destruction was to be expected, assuring them and shewing them from the Apocalypse that their coantrymen should be return'd safely to their country before they arriv'd. This happening contrary to all expecta- tion and appearance, did exceedingly credit the Bishop s confidence how that prophecy of the witnesses should so come to pass, just at the time, and the very month he had spoken of some yeares before. I after- wards went with him to Mr. Boyle and Lady Ranelagh his sister, to whom he explain'd the necessity of it so fully and learnedly made out, with what events were immediately to follow, viz. the French King's THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 54I mine, the calling of the Jews to be neare at hand, but that the king- dom of Antichrist would not yet be utterly destroy'd, till 30 years, when Christ should begin the Millenium, not as personally and visibly reign- ing on earth, but that the true rehgion and universal peace should obtain thro' all the world. He shew'd how Mr. Brightman, Mr. Mede and other interpreters of these events fail'd, by mistaking and reckon- ing the yeare as the Latines and others did, to consist of the present calculation, so many days to the yeare, whereas the Apocalypse reckons after the Persian account, as Daniel did, whose visions St. John all along explains as meaning only the Christian Church. 24 June. Din'd with Mr. Pepys, who the next day was sent to the Gate-house,' and severall great persons to the Tower, on suspicion of being affected to King James ; amongst them was the Earl of Claren- don, the Oueene's uncle. — King William having vanquish'd K. James in Ireland, there was much public rejoicing. It seemes the Irish in K. James's army would not stand, but the Enghsh-lrish and French made greate resistance. Schomberg was slain, and Dr. Walker who so bravely defended Londonderry. King William receiv'd a slight wound by the grazing of a cannon-bullet on his shoulder, which he indur'd with very little interruption of his pursuit. Hamilton, who broke his word about Tyrconnell, was taken. It is reported that K. James is gon back to France. Droghedaand Dublin surrender d, and if K. William be returning, we may say of him as Caesar said, ' Veni, vidi, vici.' But to alloy much of this, the French fleete rides in our Channell, ours not daring to interpose, and the enemy threatening to land. 27. I went to visite some friends in the Tower, when asking for Lord Clarendon, they by mistake directed me to the Earl of Torring- ton, who about three days before had ben sent for from the fleete, and put into the Tow^r for cowardice and not fighting the French fleete, which having beaten a squadron of the Hollanders, whilst Torrmgton did nothing, did now ride masters of the sea, threatening a descent. 20 July. This afternoone a Camp of about 4000 men was begun tO be form'd on Blackheath. , 30. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, now suffer'd to return to his house, on account of indisposition. . . I August. The young Duke of Grafton came to visite me gomg to his ship at the mouth of the river, in his way to Ireland (where he was skin) ^^^^ ^^^^^.^^^ Teinemouth in Devon and burnt some poore houses.-The French fleete stfll ^overmg about h Western coast, and we having 300 sail of rich merchant ships he bay of Plymouth, our fleete begin to move towards them, undei thiee . By Grey's Pallamentary Debates it appears thathe was accused of having seat .nforma- tioo to the French Cwirt of the sUte of the Enghsh Navy. 542 DEFEAT OF JAMES. CORK AND KINSALE SURRENDERED. Admirals. The country in the West all on their guard. — A very ex- traordinary fine season, but on the 12th was a very greate storm of thunder and lightning, and on the 15th the season much changdto wet and cold. — The militia and train'd bands, horse and foote, which were up thro' England, were dismiss'd. The French King having newes that K. William was slaine, and his army defeated in Ireland, caus'd such a triumph at Paris, and all over France, as was never heard of, when in the midst of it, the unhappy King James being vanquish'd, by a speedy flight and escape, himselfe brought the newes of his own defeate, and the ruin of his cause. 15. I was desir'd to be one of the bail of the Earl of Clarendon, for his release from the Tower, with divers noblemen.— The Bp. of St. Asaph expounds his prophesies to me and Mr. Pepys, &c. The troops from Blackheath march to Portsmouth. — That sweete and hopefull youth. Sir Cha. Tuke, died of the wounds he receiv'd in the fight of the Boyne, to the greate sorrow of all his friends, being (I think) the last male of that family, to which my wife is related. A more virtuous young gentleman I never knew ; he was learned for his age, having had the advantage of the choicest breeding abroad, both as to arts and arms ; he had much travell'd, but was so unhappy as to fall in the side of the unfortunate King. The unseasonable and most tempestuous weather happening, the naval expedition is hinder'd, and the extremity of wet causes the siege of Limerick to be rais'd. K. WilHam returned to England. — Lord Sydney was left Governor of what is conquer'd in Ireland, which is neere 3 parts [in 4.] 17. A public Fast. — An extraordinary sharp, cold, East wind. 12 Oct. The French General, with Tyrconnell and their forces gon back to France, beaten "out by K. William. — Cork deliver'd on discre- tion. The Duke of Grafton was there mortally wounded and dies.— Very greate storms of wind. The 8th of this month Lord Spencer wrote me word from Althorp, that there happen'd an Earthquake the day before in the morning, which tho' short, sensibly shook the house. The Gazette acquainted us that the like happen'd at the same time, half past 7, at Barnstaple, Holyhead, and Dublin. We were not sen- sible of it here. 26. Kinsale at last surrender'd, mean time K. James's party burn all the houses they have in their ^ower, and amongst them that stately palace of Lord Ossory's which lately cost, as reported, ;^4o,ooo. By a disastrous accident a third rate ship, the Breda, blew up and destroyed all on board ; in it were 25 prisoners of war. She was to have sail'd for England the next day. 3 Nov. Went to the Countess of Clancarty to condole with her con- cerning her debauch'd and dissolute son, who had done so much mis- chiefe in Ireland, now taken and brought prisoner to the Tower. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, 543 1 6. Exceeding greate storms, yet a warm season. 23. Carried Mr. Pepys's memorials to Lord Godolphin, now resum- ing the commission of the Treasury to the wonder of all his friends. I Dec. Having ben chosen President of the Royal Society I desired to decline it, and with greate difficulty devolv'd the election on Sir Robert Southwell, Secretary of State to King William in Ireland. 20. Dr. Hough, President of Magdalen Coll. Oxford, who was dis- plac'd with severall of the Fellows for not taking the oath impos'd by K. James, now made a Bishop. — Most of this month cold and frost. — ■ One Johnson, a knight, was executed at Tyburn for being an accomplice with Campbell, brother to Lord Argyle, in stealing a young heiress. 1 69 1. 4 Jan. This weeke a Plot was discover'd for a generall rising against the new Government for which Lord Clarendon and others were sent to the Tower. The next day I went to see Lord Clarendon. The Bishop of Ely^ search'd for. -Trial of Lord Preston, as not being an English Peer, hastened at the Old Bailey. 18 Jan. Lord Preston condemned about a design to bring in K. James by the French. Ashton executed. The Bp. of Ely, Mr. Graham, &c. absconded. 13 Mar. I went to visite Monsieur Justell and the Library at St. James's, in which that learned man had put the MSS. (which were in good number) into excellent order, they having laid neglected for many yeares. Divers medails had ben stolen and embezzled. 21. Din'd at Sir William Fermor's, who shew'd me many good pic- tures. After dinner a French servant play'd rarely on the lute. Sir William had now bought all the remaining statues collected with so much expence by the famous Tho. Earle of Arundel, and sent them to his seat at Easton neere Towcester.^ 25. Lord Sidney, principal Secretary of State, gave me a letter to Lord Lucas, Lieutenant of the Tower, to permit me to visit Lord Cla- rendon, which this day I did and din'd with him. ^ ^ . 10 April. This night a sudden and terrible fire burnt down all the buildings over the stone gallery at Whitehall to tl^^^^^er-side, begin- ning at the apartment of the late Dutchesse of Portsmouth (which had^ ben pull'd down and rebuilt no lesse than 3 times to Please her) and consuming other lodgings of such lewd features who d ba^^^^^^ both K Cha 2, and others, and were his destruction -The King retl^d out of Holland just Is this accident happened.- Proclamation '^^r6"\'^:ent^ot:e Dr. Sloane's curiosities, being an universal col- lectL of the natural productions of Jamaica, consisting of plants, 1 D. Turner, who though one of the 6 Bishops sent to the To.^^ for the petition to the King, decHned taking the oaths to Kjng W^^^^^^^^^^^ by Henrietta 2 They are now at Oxford, havi^ng been prcsentea - j Countess-dowager of Pomfret, widow of Thomas the first Earl. 544 THE SLOANE COLLECTION. FUNERAL OF MY NEPHEW. fruits, corals, minerals, stones, earth, shells, animals, insects, &c. col- lected with greate judgment ; severall folios of dried plants, and one which had about 80 severall sorts of ferns, and another of grasses ; the Jamaica pepper, in branch, leaves, flower, fruit, &:c. This collec- tion,^ with his Journal and other philosophical and natural discourses and observations, is indeede very copious and extraordinary, sufficient to furnish a history of that island, to which I encourag'd him. 19. The Abp. of Canterbury, and Bps. of Ely, Bath and Wells, Peterboro', Gloucester, and the rest who would not take the oaths to K. William, were now displaced, and in their rooms. Dr. Tillotson, Dean of St. Paul's, was made Abp. ; Patrick remov'd from Chichester to Ely, Cumberland ^ to Gloucester. 22 April. I din'd with Lord Clarendon in the Tower. 24. I visited the Earl and Countess of Sunderland, now come to kiss the King's hand, after his returne from Holland. This is a mys- tery. The King is preparing to return to the army. 7 May. I went to visite the Archbp. of Canterbury [Sancroft] yet at Lambeth. I found him alone, and discoursing of the times, espe- cialy of the new designed Bishops ; he told me that by no canon or divine law they could justifie the removing the present incumbents ; that Dr. Beveridge, designed Bishop of Bath and Wells, came to ask his advice ; that the Abp, told him, tho' he should give it, he believ'd he would not take it ; the Dr. said he would ; why then, says the Abp. when they come to aske, say Nolo^ and say it from the heart, there's nothing easier than to resolve your selfe what is to be don in the case ; the Dr. seem'd to deliberate. What he will do I know not, but Bishop Ken, who is to be put out, is exceedingly beloved in his diocese, and if he and the rest should insist on it and plead their interest as free- holders, 'tis believ'd there would be difficulty in their case, and it may indanger a schisme and much disturbance, so as wise men think it had ben better to have let them alone, than to have proceeded with this ri- gour to turne them out for refusing to sweare against their consciences. I asked at parting, when his Grace removed ; he sayd that he had not yet receiv'd any summons, but I found the house altogether disfur- nish'd, and his books packing up. 1 June. I went with my son, and brother-in-law Glanvill and his son, to Wotton, to solemnize the tuneral of niy Nephew, which was perform'd the next day very decently and orderly by the Herauld, in the afternoon, a very great appearance of the country being there. I was the cheife mourner ; the pall was held by Sir Francis Vincent, Sir Richard Onslow, Mr. Tho. Howard (son to Sir Robert) and Capt. of the King's Guard, Mr. Hyldiard, Mr. James, Mr. Herbert Jtephew to > It now forms part of the splendid collections in the British Museum. 2 A mistake. Dr. Edward Fowler was made Bishop of Gloucest'er in the place of Dr. Robert Frampton, deprived for not takimi the oaths. THE DIAK^ OF JOHN EVELYN. 345 Lord Herbert of Cherbury and cousin-german to my deceas'd nephew He was laid in the vault at Wotton church, in the burying-place of the Family. A grcate concourse of coaches and of people accompanied the solemnity. 10. I went to visite Lord Clarendon, still prisoner in the Tower, the' Lord Preston being pardon'd was releas'd. 17 June. A Fast. 1 1 July. I din'd with Mr. Pepys, where was Dr. Cumberland the new Bishop of Norwich,' Dr. Lloyd having been put out for not ac- knowledging the Government. Cumberland is a very learned, excellent man. — Possession was now given to Dr. Tillotson at Lambeth, by the Sheriff ; Abp. Bancroft was gon, but had left his nephew to keepe possession ; and he refusing to deliver it up on the Queene's message, was dispossess'd by the Sheriff and imprison'd. This stout demeanor of the few Bishops who refus'd to take the oathes to K. William, ani- mated a greate party to forsake the Churches, so as to threaten a schisme ; tho' those who look'd further into the ancient practice, found that when (as formerly) there wej-e Bishops displac'd on secular ac- counts, the people never refus'd to acknowledge the new Bishops, pro- vided they were not heretics. The truth is, the whole Cleargy had till now stretch'd the duty of passive obedience, so that the proceedings against these Bishops gave no little occasion of exceptions ; but this not amounting to heresy, there was a necessity of receiving the new Bishops, to prevent a failure of that order in the Church.— I went to visit Lord Clarendon in the Tower, but he was gon into the country for aire by the Queene's permission, and under the care of his warden. 18 July. I went to London to hear Mr. Stringfellow preach his first sermon in the new erected Church of Trinity, in Conduit Street ; to which I did recommend him to Dr. Tenison for the constant preacher and lecturer. This Church being formerly built of timber on Hounslow Heath by K. James for the Mass Priests, being begg'd by Dr. Tenison rector of St. Martin's, was set up by that publiq minded, charitable and pious man neere my son's dwelling in Dover Streete. cheifly at the charge of the Doctor. I know him to be an excellent preacher and a fit person. This Church, tho' erected in St. Martins, which is the Doctor's parish, he was not onely content, but was the sole industrious mover, that it should be made a separate parish in regard of the neigh, bourhood having become so populous. Wherefore to countenance and introduce the new Minister, and take possession of a gallery design d for my son's family, I went to London, where, 19 July, in the morning Dr. Tenison preach'd the first sermon tal Afterwards Dean of Canterbury ; a most respectable and worthy Divine, who made no scruple to publish what he found truly pious in the works of a Roman Ca'bolic Priest. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 557 nursery, and how well it was cultivated.— A public Bank of 140,000 set up by Act of Parliament among other Acts, and Lotteries for money to carry on the war. — The whole month of April without rain.— A greate rising of people in Buckinghamshire, on the declaration of a famous preacher, till now reputed a sober and religious man, that our Lord Christ appearing to him on the i6th of this month, told him he was now come down, and would appeare pubhckly at Pentecost, and gather all the Saints, Jews and Gentiles, and lead them to Jerusalem, and begin the Millenium, and destroying and judging the wicked de- liver the government of the world to the Saints. Greate multitudes fol- low'd this preacher, divers of the most zealous brought their goods and considerable sums of money, and began to live in imitation of the pri- mitive Saints, minding no private concerns, continually dancing and singing Hallelujah night and day. This brings to mind what I lately happen'd to find in Alstedius, that the thousand yeares should begin this very yeare 1694; it is in his Encyclopaedia BibUca. My copy of the book printed neere 60 yeares ago. 4 May. I went this day with my wife and four servants from Sayes Court, removing much furniture of all sorts, books, pictures, hangings, bedding, &c. to furnish the apartment my brother assign'd me, and now, after more than 40 years, to spend the rest of my dayes with him at Wotton, where I was born ; leaving my house at Deptford full furnish'd, and 3 servants to son-in-law Draper, to pass the summer in,and such longer time as he should think fit to make use of it. 6 May. This being the first Sunday in the month, the blessed Sa- crament of the Lord's Supper ought to have ben celebrated at Wotton Church, but in this parish it is exceedingly neglected, so that unlesse at the 4 ereate feasts, there is no communion hereabouts, which is a greate fault both in ministers and people. I have spoken to my brother ^v-ho is the patron, to discourse the Minister about it.-Scarcely one shower has fallen since the beginning of April. ^ tn the 13. Some refreshing showers.- Lord Falkland (grandson to the learned Lord Falkland, Secretary of State to K. Cha I. and slain in his service) died now of the small pox. He was a P^"^' ^^'^^J^^^^^^^^ standing, industrious young gentleman ; had ^^^-^^y^^^;"^.^^^^ mnrh reclaim'd He married a greate fortune, besides being imuieu of divers adventurers. From a S-tch h^^^^ lish Baron, design'd Ambassador to Holland ha o l^rd Godolphin o ^ o o Mr. Montague, Chan. Excheq. ... 100 Mr. Smith, Ccmmiss. Treasury... 100 Lord Ch. Justice Holt 'oo Sir Ste. Fox 200 E. of Ranelagh '0° Sir John Lowther Mr. Priestman Sir Geo. Rooke Sir John Houblon Lord Chief Justice Treby Carried over i.-l^l'^^ 100 o o 100 0 0 100 O 0 100 o o 100 O 0 568 SUBSCRIPTIONS FOR ERECTION OF GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 12. Very unseasonable and uncertain weather. 26. So little money in the nation that Exchequer Tallies, of which I had for ^.2000 on the best fund in England, the Post Office, nobody would take at '^p per cent, discount. 3 Aug. The Bank lending the ;^200,ooo to pay the army in Flanders, that had don nothing against the enemy, had so exhausted the treasure of the nation, that one could not have borrow'd money under 14 or 15 p.c. on bills, or on Exchequer Tallies under 30^. cent. — Reasonable good harvest weather. — I went to Lambeth and din'd with the Abp. who had ben at Court on the complaint against Dr. Tho- mas Watson, Bp. of St. David's, who was suspended for simony. The Abp. told me how unsatisfied he was with the Canon Law, and how exceedingly unreasonable all their pleadings appeared to him. Sept. Fine seasonable weather, and a greate harvest after a cold wet Summer. Scarcity in Scotland. 6. I went to congratulate the marriage of a daughter of Mr. Bos- cawen to the son of Sir Philip Meadows ; she is niece to my Lord Go- dolphin, married at Lambeth by the Abp. 30 August. After above 6 months' stay in London about Greenwich Hospital, I return'd to V^otton. 24 Oct. Unseasonable stormy weather, and an ill- seed time. Nov. Lord Godolphin retir'd from the Treasury, who was the first Commissioner and the most skillful manager of all. 8. The first frost began fiercely, but lasted not long. — More plots talk'd of. Search for Jacobites so call'd. 15 — '^3- Very stormy weather, rain and inundations. 13 Dec. Continuance of extreme frost and snow. 1697. Jan. 17. The severe frost and weather relented, but againe Brought over £>i,ioo o o j £ ^ Sir Wm. Trumball, Pr. Sec. Stale loo o o | Mr. Justice Powell 50 o o Sir Robt. Rich joo o o ; Mr. Justice Eyre 50 o o Sir Hen Goodrick so o 0 I Lord Ch. Baron Ward 66 13 4 Col. Austen 100 o o | Mr. Justice Gregory 50 o o Sir Tho. Lane 100 o o i Mr. Baron Powell 50 o o Sir Patience Ward 100 00 E. of Portland 500 o o SirWm. Ashurst 100 o o Mr. Baron Powis 40 o o Sir J. Trevor, Master of the Rolls 100 o o Sir Richard Onslow 100 o 0 Mr. Justice Rokeby 50 o o Mr. Baron Lechraore 40 o « By the convmittee for the fabrick of Greenwich Hospital, Nov. 4, i6g6.-^xptncf oi^ the work already done, ^^ooo and upwards, towards which the Treasurer had not received above <68oo so that they must be obliged to stop the work unless there can be a supply of money both from the tallies that have been assigned for payment of his Majesty's £ 2000, and the money subscribed by several noblemen and gentlemen ; the Secretary was ordered to attend Mr. Lowndes, Secretary to the Lords of the Treasury, to move for an order that the fames may be fixt on such fund as may be ready money, or that the Treasurer of the Hospital may be durected to dispose of thom on the best terms he can ; and that the Solicitor with the Treasurer s clerk do attend the noblemen and gentlemen that have suDscribed, M acquMnt them herewith. THE DI\RY 0^ JOHN EVELYN. 569 froze with snow.— Conspiracies continue against K. William Sir 1, Fenwick was beheaded. 7 Feb. Severe frost continued with snow. Souldiers in the armies and garrison towns frozen to death on their posts. (Here a leaf of the MS. is lost.) 1 17 Aug. I came to Wotton after three months absence. Sept. Very bright weather, but with sharp East wind. My son came from London in his melancholy indisposition. • In a letter to Dr Bohun, dated Wotton i8th Jan. 169?, Mr, Evelyn says: * Having ben told that you have lately inquir'd what is become of your now old friends cf Sayes-Court, the date hereof will acquaint you where they are, and the sequel, much of what they do and think. I believe I neede not tell you that after the marriage of my daughter, and the so kind offer of my good brother here, my then circumstances and times considered, I had reason to embrace it, not merely out of inclination to the place where I was boru and e now an interest. r • k Amongst other things I had paid £300 for the renewing of my Lease [at Deptford] with ^wie augmentation of what I hold from the Crowne, which the Duke of Leeds was supplant- ing me of but I am not here on free cost. -Mr ft' 'My LordGodoIphin(myever noble patron and steady friend, nowretird from a tati- gueing station) got me to be named Treasurer to the Marine Colledge erectmg ^'J^^^"'*''*:"^ with the sallary of 200 /er ann. of which I have never yet receiv'd one penny ol the l aine. assign'd for it, now two years at our Lady-day-my son-in-law Draper is my substitute. 1 have only had this opportunity to place my old (indeed f^^^^f"''> ''^^J J„ employment at Greenwich, which with my other bu.inesse, not small, among niany bc^, garly tenants as you know I have at Deptford [is some provision for h™]- 1 Jave let y house to Capt. Benbow, and have the mortitication of seeing every day much of my former labours and expense there impairing for want of a more polite tennant « My grandson is so delighted in books that he professes a ^^"^'^'"^ '^'''^^J^l^^^^. recreaL'n . so I give him free scope here, where I have neare upon ..000 [c^u. .«x,J wuh my brother's), and whither I would bring the rest had I -y roome, v h ch ^^.^ greate regrett, having here solittle conversation wih the Learn d ^'^ , 3„d Wotton (the learned gentleman before mentioned, ^-/[^^^ ^u^ whlh t^^^ new leaving to then to visit me, he being tutor to Mr. F inch s son at.Albury but wmc ^ ^^^^ ^ go to his living, that without books, and the best ^'^^^"'l J im^^^^ which pitied ; but with these subsidiaries, and the revising some °f ^ ^ ^^^^^ ^badiah Walkers I am Adding a Discourse I made on Medals ^"^^^lll^^^'^l^"^^^^^ Treatise appear d). I passesome of my Attic "'f 'l^^ ^'.'^^^L'^v .green grove here to an the Author of those Criticisms. For the rest, l^^^^^'^^l, good old brother will not old house ready to drop, the ceconomy and ho^'^^'^"^ ^^'^^ noffewer than 300 bumkins depart from, but more veterum kept a Christmas in which every holy-day. . „„,,,n,ent of five roomes together, besides a pretty ' We have here a very convenient f P^^*"^""' °4^^' Court, and is the raree-shew of the closet, which we have furnish'd with the ^^^^l^f^l^^^^^^ cares. Wednesday whole neighbourhood, and in truth ^-'^X.^ll^Tls ^,^, and myselfe take our turnes to and Saturday nights we call lecture Nights jl^en^^^^ ^^.^^^ ^^^^^^ for discourse read the packets of all the newes sent ^^^^^^f 'j^^^J^^^f , ,ery old man and his no young com- fill fresh newes comes ; and so you have h^sto y o a Y ^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ panion. whose society I have enjoy'd be gon, I hope to a betterpbce. Almost 50 before, but am now every ^^7 t^u s>ng up to b g ^ boy ' My daughter Draper being brought to bed - '^^rweU Gent, a very sweete disposition, ineyan 6 «nequipag:e as nny in ^f-wne. 570 BURNET ; BENTLEY ; ST. JAMES' LIBRARY. WHITEHALL BURNT. 12. Mr. Duncombe the rector came and preach'd after an absence of 2 yeares, tho' only living 7 or 8 miles off [at Ashted].— Welcome tidings of the Peace. 3 Oct. So greate were the storms all this week, that neere a 1000 people were lost going into the Texel. Nov. 16. The King's entry very pompous, but in nothing approach- ing that of K. Cha. II. 2 Dec. Thanksgiving day for the Peace. The King and a greate Court at Whitehall. The Bp. of Salisbury (Burnet) preach'd, or rather made a florid panegyric on 2 Chron. 9. 7, 8.— The evening concluded with fire-works and illuminations of greate expence. 5. Was the first Sunday that St. Paul's had service perform'd in it since it was burnt in 1666. 6. I went to Kensington with the Sherif, Knights and cheife gen- tlemen of Surrey, to present their Address to the King. The Duke of Norfolk promis'd to introduce it, but came so late, that it was pre- sented before he came. This insignificant ceremony was brought-in in Cromwell's time, and has ever since continu'd with offers of life and fortune to whoever happen'd to have the power. I din'd at Sir Richard Onslow's, who treated almost all the gentlemen in Surrey. When we had half din'd, the D. of Norfolk came in to make his excuse. 12. At the Temple CliLrch, it was very long before the service be- gan, staying for the Comptroler of the Inner Temple, where was to be kept a riotous and revelling Christmas according to custom. 18. At Lambeth, to Dr. Bentley about the Library at St. James's. 23. I return'd to Wotton. 1698. A greate Christmas kept at Wotton, open house, much com- pany. I presented my booke of medails, &c. to divers Noblemen, be- fore I expos'd it to sale. 2 Jan. Dr. Fulham, who lately married my niece, preach'd against Atheism, a very eloquent discourse, somewhat improper foi most of the audience [at Wotton], but fitted for some other place, and very appo- site to the profane temper of the age. Whitehall burnt, nothing but walls and ruins left. 30. The imprisonment of the greate banker Duncombe : censur'd by Parliament ; acquitted by the Lords ; sent again to the Tower by the Commons.' ' 25 Jan. 1697-8. Charles Duncombe, Esq. M.P. was charged with making false indorse- ments on Exchequer bills, and was committed close prisoner to the Tower. 29. Being ill. Ins apothecary and his brother Anthony Duncombe were permitted to see him. He confessed his guilt, and was expelled the House. A bill was brought in for seizure of his estate, which was passed 26 F eb. after great opposition, 138 against 103. It was intitled 'An Act for punish- ing C. Duncombe, Esq. for contriving and advising the making false Indorsements of several Bills made forth at Receipt of the Exchequer, commonly called Exchequer Bills.' This being sent to the Lords, they desired a conference with the Commons, and not being satisfied, though he had acknowledged the fact, they discharged him from the Tower. 31^ March, the Commons re-committed him. We do no* find in the Journals of the Houm ci Commons, that any thing further was done. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 57, The aar of Muscovy being come to England, and having a mind to see the buildmg of ships, hir'd my house at Sayes Court, and made it his Court and Palace, new furnished for him by the King.^ 21 April. The Czar went from my house to return'' home.— An exceeding sharp and cold season. 8 May. An extraordinary greate snow and frost, nipping the com and other fruits. Corn at gs. a bushel. [^18 a load.] 30. I din'd at Mr. Pepys, where I heard the rare voice of Mr. Pule, who was lately come from Italy, reputed the most excellent singer we had ever had. He sung severall compositions of the late Dr. Purcel. 5 June. Dr. White, late Bishop of Norwich, who had been ejected for not complying with Government, was buried in St. Gregory's Churchyard or Vault at St. Paul's. His herse was accompanied by 2 other Non-juror Bishops, Dr. Turner of Ely, and Dr. Lloyd, with 40 other Nonjuror Clergymen, who would not stay the office oi the burial, because the Dean of St. Paul's had appointed a Conlorming Minister to read the office, at which all much wondered, there being nothing in that office which mentioned the present King. 8 June. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mr. Godolphin with the Earl of Marlborough's daughter. 9. I went to Deptford to see how miserably the Czar had left my house after 3 months making it his Court. I got Sir Christopher Wren the King's surveyor, and Mr. London his gardener, to go and estimate the repairs, for which they allowed 150/. in their report to the Lords of the Treasury.— I then went to see the foundation of the Hall and Chapel at Greenwich Hospital. 6 August. I dined with Mr. Pepys, where was Capt. Dampier, who had been a famous Buccaneer, had brought hither the painted Prince Job,3 and printed a relation of his very strange adventure, and his observations. He was now going abroad again by the King's encou- ragement, who furnished a ship of 290 tons. He seemed a more modest man than one would imagine by the relation of the crew he had assorted with. He brought a map of his observations of the course 01 the Winds in the South Sea, and assured us that the maps hitherto ex- tant were all false as to the Pacific Sea, which he makes on the South of the Line, that on the North and running by the coast of Peru being extremely tempesU.us^^^^ .^^^^^^^ ^^^^^ . Whilst the Car in his h^e, ^r- W sen^t^^toj^ for all he has.' . „,,„^j nortrait bv Savage ; also a smaller one. , Giolo. of whom there is a very cunous ^^Sr^^^^^^^ortr^^^ by b g ^^^^^^ from the above, which is prefixed to a fabu ous account of h.s life, t:^ his 'Numismata ' 572 DEATH, CHARACTER, SERVICES AND FUNERAL OP MY SON. derland for his being made Professor of Physic at Oxford, in the King's gift. I went also to the Abp. in his behalf. 7 Dec. Being one of the Council of the Royal Society, I was named to be of the Committee to wait on our new President, the Lord Chan- cellor Lord Somers, our Secretary Dr. Sloane and Sir R. Southwell last Vice President carrying our book of Statues : the office of the President being read, his Lordship subscribed his name, and took the oaths according to our Statutes as a Corporation for the improvement of natural knowledge. Then his Lordship made a short compliment concerning the honour the Society had done him, and how ready he would be to promote so noble a design, and come himself among us as often as his attendance on the public would permit ; and so we took our leave. 1 8 December. Very warm, but exceeding stormy. 1699. Jan. My cousin Pierrepoint died. She was daughter to Sir John Evelyn of Wilts, my father's nephew ; she was widow of William Pierrepoint, brother to the Marquiss of Dorchester, and mother to Evelyn Pierrepoint,Earlof Kingston; a most excellent and prudent lady. The House of Commons persist in refusing more than 7000 men to be a standing army, and no strangers to be in the number. This dis- pleased the Court party. Our County member Sir O. Onslow opposed it also, which might reconcile him to the people, who began to suspect him. 17 Feb. My Grandson went to Oxford with Dr. Mander, the Mas- ter of Baliol College, where he was entered a Fellow Commoner. 19. A most furious wind, such as has not happened for many years, doing great damage to houses and trees, by the fall of which several persons were killed. 5 March. The old E. India Company lost their business against the new Company, by 10 votes in Parliament, so many of their friends being absent, going to see a tyger baited by dogs. The persecuted Vaudois who were banished out of Savoy were re- ceived by the German Protestant Princes. 24 March. My only remaining Son died after a tedious languishing sickness, contracted in Ireland and increased here; to my exceeding grief and affliction, leaving me one Grandson, now at Oxford, whom I pray God to prosper and be the support of the Wotton family. He was aged 44 years and about 3 months. He had been 6 years one of the Commissioners of the Revenue in Ireland, with great ability and repu- tation. 26. After an extraordinary storm, there came up the Thames a whale 56 feet long. Such, and a larger oi the Spout kind, was killed there 40 years ago (June 1658). That year died Cromwell, 30. My deceased Son was buried in the vault at Wotton, according to his desire. ' THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. The Duke of Devon lost ^1900 at a horse-race at Newmarke* The King preferring his young favorite Earl of Albemarle 1 to be first Commander of his Guard, the Duke of Ormond laid down his Com- mission. This of the Dutch Lord passing over his head, was exceed- ingly resented by every body. April. Lord Spencer purchased an incomparable Library' of . . ....... wherein among other rare books were several that were printed at the first invention of that wonderful art, as particularly 'Tully's Offices,' &c. There was a Homer and a Suidas in a very good Greek character and good paper, almost as ancient. I'his gen- tleman is a very fine scholar, whom from a child I have known. His tutor was one Florival of Geneva. 29 April. I dined with the Archbishop, but my business was to get him to persuade the King to purchase the late Bishop of Worcester's Library, and build a place for his own Library at St. James's, in the Park, the present one being too small. 3 May. At a meeting of the Royal Society I was nominated to be of the Committee to wait on the Lord Chancellor to move the King to purchase the Bp. of Worcester's Library (Dr. Edward Stillingfleet.) 4. The Court party have little influence in this Session. 7. The Duke of Ormond restored to his Commission. — All Lotte- ries, till now cheating the people, to be no longer permitted than to Christmas, except that for the benefit of Greenwich Hospital. Mr. Bridgman, chairman of the Committee for that charitable work, died ; a great loss to it. He was Clerk of the Couucil, a very industrious useful man. I saw the library of Dr. John Moore ^ Bp. of Norwich, one of the best and most ample collection of all sorts of good bookes in England, and he, one of the most learned men. 1 1 June. After a long drowth we had a refreshing shower. The day before there was a dreadfull fire at Rotherhithe, neere the Thames side, which burnt divers ships, and consum'd neere 300 houses.— Now died the famous Dutchess of Mazarine, she had ben the richest lady in Europe. She was niece of Cardinal Mazarine, and was married to the richest subject in Europe, as is said. She was born at Rome, educated in France, and was an extraordinary beauty and wit, but dissolute and impatient of matrimonial restraint, so as to be abandon'd by her hus- Land, and banish'd, when she came into England for shelter, liv d on a ' Arnold Joost Van Keppel, created Earl of Albemarle, Viscount Bury, &c. in Feb. 1695-6. K.G. 1700, died in 1718, at the Hague, set. 48. . 2 The foundation of the noble Library now at Blenheim. purchased Cambridge, where 't now is Ihis gi t occ ^.^^ ^^^^ Cniversities of Oxford and Cambridp ; a Troop of ho e b g ^ ^^^^ ^ universities 01 v^xiuru WnnV^ to the latter holding those of the Whigs ana Granger. 574 DEATH OF MY BROTHER OF WOTTON. pension given her here, and is reported to have hasten'd her death by intemperate drinking strong spirits. She has written her own story and adventures, and so has her other extravagant sister, wife to the noble family of Colonna. 15. This week died Conyers Seymour, son of Sir Edw. Seymour, kiird in a duel caus'd by a slight affront in St. James's Park, given him by one who was envious of his gallantries, for he was a vain foppish young man, who made a greate eclat about town by his splendid equipage and boundless expence. He was about 23 yeares old ; his brother, now at Oxford, inherited an estate of £.7000 a year, which had fallen to him not 2 yeares before. 19 June. My cousin Geo. Evelyn of Nutfield died suddenly. 25. The heat has ben so great almost all this month, that I do not remember to have felt much greater in Italy, and this after a Winter the wettest, tho' not the coldest, that I remember for 50 yeares last past. 28. Finding my occasions called me so often to London, I took the remainder of the lease my Son had in a house in Dover Street, to which I now remov'd, not taking my goods from Wotton. 23 July. Seasonable showers after a continuance of excessive drowth and heat. Aug. I drank the Shooters Hill waters. At Deptford they had ben building a pretty new Church. — The Bishop of St. David's [Wat- son] depriv'd for simojiy. — The city of Moscow burnt by the throwing of squibs. 3 Sept. There was in this weeke an eclipse of the sun, at which many were frighten'd by the predictions of the astrologers. I remember 50 yeares ago that many were so terrified by Lilly that they durst not go out of their houses. — A strange Earthquake at New Batavia in the East Indies. 4 Oct. My worthy Brother died at Wotton in the 83rd year of his age, of perfect memory and understanding. He was religious, sober, and temperate, and of so hospitable a nature, that no family in the county maintain'd that ancient custom of keeping, as it were, open house the whole yeare in the same manner, or gave more noble or free entertainment to the county on all occasions, so that his house was never free. There were sometimes 20 persons more than his family, and some that staid there all the Summer, to his no small expence ; by this he gain'd the universal love of the county. He was born at Wot- ton, went from the free school at Guildford to Trinity Coll. Oxford, thence to the Middle Temple, as gentlemen of the best quality did, but without intention to study the law as a profession. He married the daughter of Colwall, of a worthy and ancient family in Leicestershire, by whom he had one son ; she dying in 1643, left Geo. her son, an infant, who being educated liberally, after travelling abroad ^ return'd » Mr. Evelyn, 30 Mar. 1664, in a letter to his nephew George Evelyn, then on his travels ia THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. and married one Mrs. Gore, by whom he had several children, but only three daughters survived : he was a young man of good understanding, but over indulgmg his ease and pleasure, grew so very corpulent, con' 1 ^^J^^^^^^^io" of the rest of his father's relations, that he died. My Brother afterwards married a noble and honourable lady, rchct of Sir John Cotton, she being an Offley, a worthy and ancient Staffordshire family, by whom he had several children of both sexes This lady died leaving only two daughters and a son. The younger daughter died before marriage ; the other afterwards married Sir Cyril Wych, a noble and learned gentleman (son of Sir ... . Wych), who had ben Ambassador at Constantinople, and was afterwards made one of the Lords Justices of Iceland. Before this marriage, her only brother married the daughter of Eversfield of Sussex, of an honourable family, but left a widow without any child living : he died about 1 69 1, and his wife not many yeares after, and my Brother re- settled the whole estate on me. His sister Wych had a portion of ^6000, to which was added about ^300 more ; the three other daugh- ters, with what I added, had about ^5000 each. My Brother died on 5 Oct. in a good old age and greate reputation, making his beloved daughter Lady Wych sole Executrix, leaving me only his library and some pictures of my father, mother, &c. She buried him with extra- ordinary solemnity, rather as a nobleman than as a private gentleman. There were, as I computed, above 2000 persons at the funerall, all the gentlemen of the county doing him the last honours. I returned to London, till my lady should dispose of herselfe and family. 21 October. After an unusual warm and pleasant season, we were surpriz'd with a very sharp frost. — I presented my Acetaria dedicated to my Lord Chancellor, who return'd me thanks in an extraordinary civil letter. 25 Nov. There happen'd this weeke so thick a mist and fog that people lost their way in the streetes, it being so intense that no light of candles or torches yielded any (or but very little) direction. I was in it and in danger. Robberies were committed between the very lights which were fix'd between London and Kensington on both sides, and whilst coaches and travellers were passing. It began about four in the afternoone, and was quite gon by eight, without any wind to disperse it. At the Thames they beat drums to direct the watermen to make the shore. , 19 Nov. At our Chapell in the evening there was a sermon preach d by young Mr. Horneck, ch aplain to Lord Guildford, j vhosejady s ftalyTtdlThim that his father complained of his expences, as much ^l:";^* own. which were known to the young gentleman's father, as all the money passed h oMgh ^- hands. He says that when he travelled he kept a servant, sometimes 'wo, " ertamed several masters, and made no inconsiderable collect:on of <=""«Xh h^ys L i£« per «««.-He desires seeds of the ilex, phyllera, mirtle, jessamme. wh.ch he says are rare in England. 576 KIDD, THE ARCH PIRaTE, CCOrCH BOOK ON DARIEN BURNT. funeral had been celebrated ma[|nificently the Thursday before. A panegyric was now pronounc'd, describing the extraordinary piety and excellently imploy'd Hfe of this amiable young lady. She died in child- bed a few days before, to the excessive sorrow of her husband, who order'd the preacher to declare that it was on her exemplary life, exhortations and persuasions, that he totally chang'd the course of his life, which was before in greate danger of being perverted, following the mode of this dissolute age. Her devotion, early piety, charity, fast- ings, oeconomy, disposition of her time in reading, praying, recollections in her own hand-writing of what she heard and read, and her conversa- tion, were most exemplary. 24 November. I sign'd Dr. Blackwall's election to be the next yeares Boyle's Lecturer. Such horrible robberies and murders were committed, as had not ben known in this nation ; atheism, profaneness, blasphemy, amongst all sorts, portended some judgment if not amended, on which a Society was set on foot, who oblig'd themselves to endeavour the reforming of it, in London and other places, and began to punish offenders and put the laws in more strict execution, which God Almighty prosper. — A gentle, calm, dry, temperate weather all this season of the yeare, but now came sharp, hard frost, and mist, but calm. 3 December. Calm, bright, and warm as in the middle of April. So continu'd on 21 January.— A great earthquake in Portugal. The Parliament reverse the prodigious donations of the Irish for- feitures, which were intended to be set apart for discharging the vast national debt. They call'd some greate persons in the highest offices in question for setting the Greate Scale to the pardon of an arch pirate who had turn'd pirate againe, and brought prizes into the West Indies, suspected to be conniv'd at on sharing the prey ; but the prevaiUng part in the House cali'd Courtiers, out-voted the complaints, not by being more in number, but by the country party being negligent in attendance. 1700. 14 Jan. Dr. Lancaster, Vicar of St. Martin's, dismissed Mr. Stringfellow, who had ben made the first preacher at our Chapell by the Bishop of Lincoln [Dr. Tenison, now Archbp.] whilst he held St. Martin's by dispensation, and put in one Mr. Sandys, much against the inclination of those who frequented the Chapel.— The Scotch book about Darien was burnt by the hangman by vote of Parliament.* 25. I went to Wotton the first time after my brother's funerall, to furnish the house with necessaries. Lady Wych and my nephew Glan- > Captain Kidd : he was hanged about two years afterwards with some of his accomplices. This was one of the charges brought by the Commons against Lord Somers. ^ 2 The volume alluded to was « An Enquiry into the causes of the Miscarriage of the Scots .,olony at Darien : Or an Answer to a Libel, entituled, A Defence of the Scots abdicaticff Darien ' See Votes of the House of Commons, x% January, 1699-1700. THE DIARV OF JOHN EVELYN. 57./ dlle the executors having sold and dispos'd of what goods were there of my brother's.— The weather was now altering into sharp and hard frost. One Stephens' who preach'd before the House of Commons on K. Charles's martyrdom, told them that the observation of that day was not intended out of any detestation of his murder, but to be a lesson to other Kings and Rulers, how they ought to behave themselves to- wards their subjects, lest they should come to the same end. This was so resented that tho' it was usual to desire these anniversary sermons to be printed, they refus'd thanks to him, and order'd that in luture no one should preach before them who was not either a Dean or a Doctor of Divinity. 4 Feb. The Parliament voted against the Scots settling in Darien as being prejudicial to our trade with Spain. They also voted that the exorbitant number of Attornies be lessen'd (now indeede swarming, and evidently causing law-suits and disturbance, eating out the estates of people, provoking them to go to law).— Died the Duke of Beaulort, a person of greate honour, prudence and estate. 18. Mild and calm season, with gentle frost, and little misling rain The Vicar of St. Martin's frequently preach'd at Trinity Chapel in the afternoone. 8. The season was like April for warmth and mildnesse.— II. On Wednesday was a sermon at our Chapell, to be continu'd during Lent. 13. 1 was at the tunerall of my Lady Temple, who was buried at Islington, brought from Adscomb neere Croydon. She left my son-in- law Draper (her nephew) the mansion house of Adscomb, very nobly and completely furnish'd, with the estate about it, with plate and jewels, to the value in all of about ^.20,000. She was a very prudent lady, gave many greate legacies, with ^.500 to the poore of Islmgton, where her husband Sir Purbeck Temple was buried, both dymg with- out issue. , ,. 1 24 March. The season warm, gentle and exceedmg pleasant.- Divers persons ol quality enter'd into the Society for refer— Manners; and some Lectures were ^^t up, particularly m the C^^^^^^^ London. The most eminent of the Clergy preach'd at Bow Church after reading a Declaration set forth by the f JPPf^f ^ growing wickednesse; this began already to f ^ ^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ all common swearing, and oathes in the mouths of people of "2?' Dr. Burnet preach'd to-day before the Lord Mayor and - y greate congregation' on 27 Proverbs I'SJ^^J'^^^^^^^^^^^ better than secret love; the wounds of a friend are . WUlia. Stephens, rector of Sutton in Surrey 3^;^—^^?^;^ M^S^ln^ House of Commons, he pubhshed U as in defiance. See more and Bray's Hist, of Surrey. 11. 487. 57"^ PARLIAMENTARY COMMISSION ON FORFEITED ESTATES. kisses of an enemy.' He made a very pathetic discourse concerning the necessity and advantage of friendly correction. April. The Duke of Norfolk now succeeded in obtaining a divorce from his wife by the Parliament for adultery with Sir John Germaine, a Dutch gamester of mean extraction, who had got much by gaming ; the Duke had leave to marry againe, so that if he should have children, the Dukedom will go from the late Lord Thomas's children, Papists indeede, but very hopefull and virtuous gentlemen, as was their father. The now Duke their uncle is a Protestant. The Parliament nominated 14 persons to go into Ireland as Com- missioners to dispose of the forfeited estates there, towards payment of the debts incurr'd by the late war, but 'vhich the King had in greate measure given to some of his favourites of both sexes, Dutch and others of little merit, and very unseasonably. That this might be don without suspicion of interest in the Parliament, it was ordered that no member of either House should be in the Commission. — The greate contest betweene the Lords and Commons concerning the Lords power of amendments and rejecting bills tack'd to the money bill, carried for the Commons. However this tacking of bills is a novel practice, suffer'd by K. Cha. IL who being continually in want of money, let any thing pass rather than not have wherewith to feed his extravagance. This was carried but by one voice in the Lords, all the Bishops follow- ing the Court, save one ; so that neere 60 bills pass'd, to the greate triumph of the Commons and country party, but high regret of the Court, and those to whom the King had given large estates in Ireland. Pity it is that things should be brought to this extremity, the government of this nation being so equally poiz'd between King and Subject, but we are satisfied with nothing, and whilst there is no per- fection on this side Heaven, methinks both might be contented with- out straining things too far.— Amongst the rest there pass'd a law as to Papists estates, that if one turn'd not Protestant before 18 yeares of age, it should passe to his next Protestant heire. This indeede seem'd a hard law, but not only the usage of the French King to his Protestant subjects, but the indiscreete insolence ot the Papists here, gomg in triumphant and public processions with their Bishops, with banners and trumpets in divers places (as is said) in the Northern counties, has brought it on their party. 24 April. This weeke there was a greate change of State Officers.— The Duke of Shrewsbury resign'd his Lord Chamberlainship to the Earl of Jersey, the Duke's indisposition requiring his retreat. Mr. Vernon, Secretary of State, was put out.— The Scale was taken from the Lord Chancellor Somers, tho' he had ben acquitted by a greate majority of votes for what was charg'd against him in the House of Commons. This being in term time put some stop to business, many emment lawyers refusing to accept the office, considering the uncer- THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. 579 tainly of things in this fluctuating conjuncture. It is ceitaine that this Chancellor was a most excellent lawyer, very learned in all polite lite- rature, a superior pen, master of a handsome style, and of easy con- versation ; but he is said to make too much haste to be rich, as his pre- decessor, and most in place in this age did, to a more prodigious ex- ccsse than was ever known. But the Commons had now so mortified the Court party, and property and liberty were so much invaded in all the neighbouring kingdoms, that their jealousy made them cautious, and every day strcngthen'd the law which protected the people from tyranny. A most glorious Spring, with hope of abundance of fruite of all kinds, and a propitious yeare. 10 May. The greate trial between Sir Walter Clarges and Mr. Sherwin concerning the legitimacy of the late Duke oi Albermarle, on which depended an estate of ^1500 a year ; the verdict was given for Sir Walter. - 19. Serjeant Wright ' at last accepted the Greate Scale. 24. I went from Dover street to Wotton for the rest of the Sum- mer, and remov'd thither the rest of my goods from Sayes Court. 2 June. A sweete season, with a mixture of refreshing showers. 9—16. In the afternoone our Clergyman had a Catechism, which was continu'd for some time. July I was visited with illness, but it pleas'd God that I recover d, for which praise be ascrib'd to Him by me, and that He has again so graciously advertiz'd me of my duty to prepare for my latter end, which at my greate age cannot be far off. _ The Duke of Gloucester, son of the Prmcess Anne of Denmark, died of the small pox. , i f I ^ I went to Marden, which was originally a barren warren bought by Sir Robert Clayton, who built there a pretty house, and rnade such alteration by planting not only an infinite store of the be t fruite, but srcTan-'d he natural situation of the hill, valleys and solitary m un- t^ins about it that it rather represented some foreign country which vmi d Pi^du^^ spontaneously pines, firs, cypress, yew, holly, and unSr they were come to their perfect growth, with walks, mazes J iniper , ^"^> J- oreserv'd with the utmost care, so that I 20 Sept. 1 ^^"Vsir Nathan Wri.hte, anpointed Lord Keeper. 580 VISIT MR. PEPYS AT CLAPHAM. ILLNESS OF MY GRANDSON. my remembrance a noble old structure, capacious, and in form of the buildings of the age of Hen. VIII. and Qu. Eliz. and proper for the old English hospitality, but now decaying with the house itselfe, heretofore adorn'd with ample gardens, and the first orange trees^ that had ben seen in England, planted in the open ground, and secur'd in Winter onely by a tabernacle of boards and stoves removable in Summer, that standing 120 yeares, large and goodly trees, and laden with fruite, were now in decay, as well as the Grotto, fountaines, cabinets and other curiosities in the house and abroad, it being now fallen to a child under age, and only kept by a servant or two from utter dilapidation. The estate and park about it also in decay. 23. I went to visite Mr. Pepys at Clapham where he has a very noble and wonderfully well furnish'd house, especially with India and Chinese curiosities. The offices and gardens well accommodated for pleasure and retirement. 31 Oct. My birth day now compleated the 80th year of my age. I with my soul render thanks to God, who, of his infinite mercy, not onely brought me out of many troubles, but this yeare restor'd me to health, after an ague and other infirmities of so greate an age, my sight, hearing and other senses and faculties tolerable, which I implore him to continue, with the pardon of my sins past, and grace to acknow- ledge by my improvement of his goodnesse the ensuing yeare, if it be his pleasure to protract my life, that I may be the better prepar'd for my last day, thro' the infinite merits of my blessed Saviour, the Lord Jesus, Amen. 5 Nov. Came the news of my deare Grandson (the only male of my family now remaining) being fallen ill of the smai/'J?ox a.t Oxford, which after the dire effects of it in my family, exceedingly afilictedme, but so it pleas'd my most mercifull God that being let blood at his first com- plaint, and by the extraordinary care of Dr. Mander (head of the Col- lege and now Vice Chancellor), who caused him to be brought and lodg'd in his own bed and bed-chamber, with the advice of his phy- sician and care of his tutor, there were all faire hopes of his recovery, to our infinite comfort. We had a letter every day either from the Vice- Chancellor himselfe or his tutor. — 17. Assurance of his recovery by a letter from himselfe. There was a change of Greate Officers at Court. Lord Godolphin return'd to his former station of first Commissioner of the Treasury ; Sir Cha. Hedges Secretary of State. 30 Nov. At the Royal Society, Lord Somers, the late Chancellor, was continu'd President. 8 Dec. Greate alterations of Officers at Court and elsewhere— Lord Cheif Justice Treby died ; he was a learned man in his profession, of * Oranges were eaten in this kingdom in the time of K. James I. if not earlier, as appears by the accounts of a Student in the Temple, wliich the Editor has seen. THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN. which we have now few, never fewer ; the Chancery requiring so little skill in deep law learning, if the practiser can talk eloquently in that Court, so that probably few care to study the law to any purpose.— Lord Marlborough Master of the Ordnance, in place of Lord Romney made Groom of the Stole. The Earl of Rochester goes Lord Lieu- tenant to Ireland. 1 701. Jan. I finished the sale of North Stoake in Sussex to Robert Michell, Esq. appointed by my brother to be sold lor payment of por- tions to my nieces, and other incumbrances on the estate. 4. An exceeding deepe snow and melted away as suddenly. 19. Severe frost, and such a tempest as threw down many chimnies, and did greate spoile at sea, and blew down above twenty trees of mine at Wotton. 9. The old Speaker laid aside, and Mr. Harley, an able gentleman, chosen. Our countryman Sir Richard Onslow, had a party for him. 27. By an order of the House of Commons, I laid before the Speaker the state of what had ben receiv'd and paid towards the building of Greenwich Hospital \ Mr. Wye, rector of Wotton, died, a very worthy good man. I gave it to Dr. Bohun, a learned person and excellent preacher, who had ben my son's tutor, and liv'd long in my family. 18 March. I lett Sayes Court to Lord Carmarthen, son to the Duke of Leeds.— 28. I went to the funeral of my sister Draper ^ who was buried at Edmonton in greate state. Dr. Davenant displeas'd the Clergy now met in Convocation by a passage in his book, p. 40-'. 1 ToHN Evelyn, Esq. Dr. to Greenwich Hospital. Per Contra Creditor. •' s. d. By the Accompt m £ »• d. . 3,416 o o 1696 . . . 5915 18 7 . 6,836 16 3 ^697 . . . 8,971 >o 4 Received in the year 1696 1697 ,698 . . . 14.967 8 4 ^698 . . . 11,58515 1699 . • • 14.024 13 4 1700 . . . 19.241 I 3 1699 . . . I9»6i4 9 8 ijoo . . . 18,013 8 5 „o.June.6 . ^_2_3 ^^^^^^^ ] '.^^^ Remaineiri Lottery Tickets to1;epaid^n^en years ^11,434 3 5 More in Malt Tickets . . • -69,320* — "■432 I 11 . • 81,752 _ lu'vctv ' * . • 6,000 and Subscriptions "?taeU^^^ ^:;^^'^^:^^'Es.^s upon the Ballancc 3 Cha. Davenant, LL.D. (son of Sir ^'1 i^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^.^ ^^^^^^ of Power,' in which he says that "^f^V ^ J^^'' « A e not "'^"^ '° '° - vours to discountenance all revealed Rehg:on. Are not y ^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ persons, whom nothing has [^^^'^'^^^^^f^j; S'hey huve, almost from their cradles, pro- bencfices and dignities, but the open enm.^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ ordered papers to fesscd to the Divin.ty of Chr^t ? ^ ^he Con;ocat ^^^^^^^ ^ ^ ^ L^tl^m^n;^^^^^^^^ last edit. 582 THE DUTCH BOV. TRIAL Ol LORD SOMERS. LORD GALWAY. April. A Dutch boy of about 8 or 9 years old was carried about by his parents to shewe, who had about the iris of one eye, the letters of Detis nieus, and of the other EloJiim in the Hebrew character. How this was don by artifice none conld imagine ; his parents affirming that he was so born. It did not prejudice his sight, and he seem'd to be a lively playing boy. Every body went to see him ; physicians and phi- losophers examin'd it with greate accuracy, some considered it as arti- ficial, others as almost supernatural. 4 April. The Duke of Norfolk died of an apoplexy, and Mr. The. Howard of complicated disease since his being cut for the stone ; he was one of the Tellers of the Exchequer. Mr. How made a Baron. May. Some Kentish men delivering a petition to the House of Commons, were imprisoned \ A greate dearth, no considerable raine having fallen for some months. 17. Very plentifull showers, the wind coming West and South.— The Bishops and Convocation at difference concerning the right of calling the Assembly and dissolving. Atterbury ' and Dr. Wake ' wri- ting one again€t the other. 20 June. The Commons demanded a conference with the Lords on the trial of Lord Somers, which the Lords refus'd, and proceeding on the trial, the Commons would not attend, and he was acquitted. 22. I went to congratulate the arrival of that worthy and excellent person my Lord Galway, newly come out of Ireland, where he had behav'd himselfe so honestly, and to the exceeding satisfaction of the people ; but he was remov'd thence for being a Frenchman", tho' they had not a more worthy, valiant, discreet, and trusty person in the two kingdoms, on whom they could have relied for his conduct and fitnesse. He was one who had deeply suffer'd, as v/ell as the Marquiss his lather, for being Protestants. Aug. The weather chang'd from heate not much lesse than in Italy or Spain for some few days, to wet, dripping and cold with intermis- sions of faire. July. My Lord Treasurer made my Grandson one of the Commis- sioners of the prizes, salary ^500 per ann. 8. My Grandson went with Sir Simon Harcourt, the Solicitor General, to Windsor to wait on my Lord Treasurer. There had ben ' There were five of them, all gentlemen of considerable property and family in the county. There is a very good print of them, all on one plate. They desired the Parliament to mind the Publick more and their private heats less. They were confined till the prorogation, and were much visited. Burnet, V, 532. 1 Afterwards Bishop of Rochester. ' Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. < Henry Rouvigne, Earl ot Galway in Ireland, son of the Marquis who was Ambassador from France to Charles IL He was created a Peer by King William, for his gallantry at the battle of the Boyne, where his brother also fought and was killed. He commanded after- wards both in Italy and Spain, where the fatal battle of Almanza put an end to his military glory. There is a mezzotinto Dortrait of him by Simon. THE DIARY OF JOHxN EVELYN. 583 for some time a proposal of marrying my grandson to a daughter of Mrs. Boscawen, sister of my Lord Treasurer, which was now far advanced. 14. I subscrib'd towards rebuilding Oakwood Chapel (Wotton Parish), now after 200 years almost fallen down. 2 Sept. I went to Kensington and saw the house, plantations and gardens, the work of Mr. Wise, who was there to receive me. The death of K. James happening on the 15th of this month N. S. after 2 or 3 days indisposition, put an end to that unhappy Prince's troubles, after a short and unprosperous reign, indiscreetly attempting to bring in Popery and make himselfe absolute in imitation of the French, hurried on by the impatience of the Jesuits, which the Nation would not indure. Died the Earl of Bath, whose contest with Lord Montague about the Duke of Albemarle's estate, claiming under a Will suppos'd to have been forg'd, is said to have ben worth 10,000 to the lawyers. His eldest son shot himselfe a few days after his father's death, for what cause is not cleare. He was a most hopefull young man, and had behav'd so bravely against the Turks at the siege of Vienna, that the Emperor made him a Count of the Empire.— It was falsely reported that Sir Edw. Seymour was dead, a great man ; he had often been Speaker, Treasurer of the Navy, and in many other lucrative offices. He was of a hasty spirit, not thought at all sincere, but head of the party at any time prevailing in Parliament. 29 Sept. I kept my first Courts in Surrey, which tooke up the whole weeke. My Steward was Mr. Hervey, a Counsellor, Justice of Peace and Member of Parliament, and my neighbour. I gave him 6 guineas, which was a galla a day, and to Mr. Martm his clerk, ^ 3T October. I was this day 81 complete, in tolerable health con- D^r G^ef tToSons about elections. I gave my vote and int. rest to Sir R. Onslow and Mr. Weston. 27. My grandson quitted Oxford. , ,792. 2. January. At the Royal Socety there was read and *pprov-d the delineation and description of -"y/^bles o Ve ms and Arteries, by Mr. Cooper the ehirurgeon, m order to the.r be.nR '"f M^ch The Kin. had a fall from his horse and broke his collar boL'^ anS-hlvtg'be-n much i-dispos'd befo. -d -^^^^^^^ long cough and other weaknesse, died this Sunda> morning 'Tctjrtd my accounts of Greenwich Hosp^al - ^^^^^^^^^ ,2 April. My Brother-in-law Glanville d'^Pf ^^'''^^ '^^^ ,er, ,nd ing after a long languishing iUnesse, leaving a son by my 584 GREENWICH HOSPITAL ACCOUNTS PUSHED. QUEEN ANNE. two grand-daughters Our relation and friendship had ben long and greate. He was a man of excellent parts. He died in the 84th year of his age, and will'd his body to be vvrapp'd in lead and carried downe to Greenwich, put on board a-ship and buried in the sea betweene Dover and Calais, about the Goodwin sands, which was don on the Tuesday or Wednesday after. This occasioned much discourse, he having no relation at all to the sea. He was a gentleman oi an ancient family in Devonshire, and married my sister Jane. By his prudent parsimony he much improv'd his fortune. He had a place in the Alienation Office, and might have ben an extraordinary man had he cultivated his parts. My Steward at Wotton gave a very honest account of what he had laid out on repairs, amounting to ;!^.i9oo. 3 May. The Report of the Committee sent to examine the state of Greenwich Hospital was deliver'd to the House of Commons, much to their satisfaction. — Lord Godolphin made Lord High Treasurer. Being elected a member of the Society lately incorporated for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, I subscrib'd \ol. per ami. towards the carrying it on. We agreed that every Missioner, besides the 20/. to set him forth, should have 50/. per ami. out of the Stock ot the Corporation till his settlement was worth to him 100/. per ann. We sent a young Divine to New York. 22 June. I din'd at the Abp's. with the new-made Bishop of Car- lisle, Dr. Nicholson, my worthy and learned correspondent. 27. I went to Wotton with my family for the rest of the Summer, fnd my son-in-law Draper with his family came to stay with us, his house at Adscomb being new building, so that my family was above 30. — Most of the new Parliament were chosen of Church of England principles, against the peevish party.— The Queene was magnificently entertain'd at Oxford and at all the townes she pass'd through on her way to Bath. 31 Oct. Arriv'd now to the 82nd year of my age, having read over all that pass'd since this day twelvemonth in these notes, I render solemn thanks to the Lord, imploring the pardon of my past sins, and the assistance of His grace ; making new resolutions, and imploring that He will continue His assistance, and prepare me for my blessed Saviour's coming, that I may obtain a comfortable departure, after so long a term as has ben hitherto indulg'd me. I find by many infirmities ' One of these daughters became heiress of the family, and married William Evelyn of St. Cleer In Kent, son of George of Nutfield. He assumed the name of Glanville, but thera being only daughters by this marriage, he had two sons by a second wife, and they resumed the name of Evelyn. The first of those sons left a son who died unmarried before he came of *ge, and a daughter who married Col. Hume, who has taken the name of Evelyn, but has no child ; the second son of Mr. Glanville Evelyn married Lady Jane Leslie, who became Countess of Rothes in her own right, and left a son, George William, who became Earl or Rothes in right of his mother, and died in 1817. leavinp^ no issue male. THE DIARY OP JOHN EVELYN. 585 this yeare (especially nephritic pains) that I much decUne ; and yet ol His infinite mercy retain my intellects and senses in greatc measure above most of my age. I have this yeare repair'd much of the man- sion-house and severall tenants' houses, and paid some of my debts and ingagements. My wife, children and family in health : for all which I most sincerely beseech Almighty God to accept of these my acknow- ledgments, and that if it he His holy will to continue me yet longer, it may be to the praise of His infinite grace, and salvation of my soul. Amen. 8 Nov. My kinsman John Evelyn of Nutfield, a young and very hopeful gentleman, and Member of Parliament, after having come to Wotton to see me, about 1 5 days past, went to London and there died of the small pox. He left a brother, a commander in the army in Holland, to inherit a faire estate. Our affaires in so prosperous a condition both by sea and land that there has not ben so great an union in ParHament, Court and People, in memory of man, which God in mercy make us thankfuU for ana con- tinue. The Bp. of Exeter preach'd before the Queene and both Houses of Parliament at St. Paul's ; they were wonderfully huzza'd m their passage, and splendidly entertain'd in the Citty. Dec The expectation now is what treasure will be found on break- in- bulk of the Galleon brought from Vigo by Sir Geo. Rooke, which being made up in an extraordinary manner in the hold, was not begun to bl open d till the 5th of this month before 2 ot the Privy Council, 2 of the chiefe Magistrates of the Ciity, and the Lord Treasurer. After ^he excesse of honour conferr'd by the Queene on the Earl of Marlborough, by making him a Knight of the Garter, and a Duke L^hfsuccess; of but one campaign, ^^at l.e shou d desire ^^c.o a yeare to be settled on him by Parliament out of the P^st ^^^^ ^ in the West Indies, in which he gallantly De ^^.^ capacity to serve in future. 1 he fourth died, on them In .he West ^-^X^^^^^:^:^:^ Co land on EnglUh ground The them - mouih were boOi sbot on AN ITALIAN SINGER. DEATH OF 3AM JEL PEPYS. Sir Richard Onslow and Mr. Oglethorpe (son of the late Sir Theo. O.) fought on occasion of some words which passed at a Committee of the House. Mr. Oglethorpe was disarm'd.— The Bill against occasional Conformity was lost by one vote.— Corn and provisions so cheape that the farmers are unable to pay their rents. Feb. A fjimous cause at the King's Bench betweene Mr. Fenwick and his wife,^ which went for him with a greate estate. — The Duke of Marlborough lost his only son at Cambridge by the sinall pox.—X greate Earthquake at Rome, &c.— A famous young woman, an Italian, was hir'd by our Comedians to sing on the stage, during so many plays, for which they gave her £soo ; which part by her voice alone at the end of 3 scenes she perform'd with such modesty and grace, and above all, with such skill, that there was never any who did anything com- parable with their voices. She was to go home to the Court of the King of Prussia, and I believe carried with her out of this vain nation above 1000,2 every body covetting to hear her at their private houses. 26 May. This day died Mr. Sam. Pepys, a very worthy, industrious and curious person, none in England exceeding him in knowledge of the Navy, in which he had passed thro' all the most considerable ofhces, Clerk of the Acts and Secretary of the Admiralty, all which he per- formed with greate integrity. When K. James II. went out of Eng- land, he laid down his office, and would serve no more, but withdrawing himselfe from all public affaires, he liv'd at Clapham with his partner Mr. Hewer, formerly his clerk, in a very noble house and sweete place, where he enjoy'd the fruite of his labours in greate prosperity. He was universally belov'd, hospitable, generous, learned in many things, skill'd in music, a very greate cherisher of learned men of whom he had the conversation. His library ^ and collection of other curiosities were of the most considerable, the models of ships especially. Besides what he publish'd of an Account of the Navy, as he found and left it, he had for divers yeares under his hand the History of the Navy, or Navalia as he call'd it ; but how far advanced, and what will follow of his, is left, I suppose, to his sister's son Mr. Jackson, a young gentle- man whom Mr. Pepys had educated in all sorts of usefull learning, sending to travel abroad, from whence he returned with extraordinary accomplishments, and worthy to be heir. Mr. Pepys had ben for necre 40 yeares so much my particular friend that Mr. Jackson sent me com- 1 She was dau^liter and heir of Sir Adam Brown of Betchworth Castle in Dorking, and married Mr. Fenwick. This suit probably related to a settlement which she had consented to make, by which the estate was limited to them and their issue, and the heir of the survive*. They had one son, who died without issue, and she survived her husband, thereby becoming entitled to dispose of it. - What would Madame Mara or Catalani in these days think of such a paltry sum? » His valuable library he gave to Magdalen College, Cambridge, together with his fine col- lection of prints, where they now remain in a very handsome room, and are to this day among the vider^ia of that University. THE DiARY O^' JOHN EVLEYN. 587 p/eai moiirnin!^,^ desiring me to be one to hold up the pall at his mag- nificent obsequies, but my indisposition hinder'd me from doing him this last office. 13 June. Rains have ben greate and continual, and now neere Midsummer, cold and wet. 1 1 July. I went to Adscomb, 16 miJes from Wotton, to sec my son- in law's new house, the outside, to the coveing, being such excellent brick work, bas'd with Portland stone, with the pilasters, windows and within, that I pronounc'd it in all the points of good and solid archi- tecture to be one of the very best gentleman's houses in Surrey, when finish'd. I returned to Wotton in the evening tho' weary. 25 July. The last week in this month an uncommon long-continued rain, and the Sunday following thunder and lightning. 12 Aug. The new Commission for Greenwich Hospital was seald and open'd, at which my son-in-law Draper was present, to whom I resign'd my office of Treasurer. From August 1696 there had been expended in building ;£89,364. 14^- 8^. . Oct. This day, being 83 years of age, upon exammmg what concern'd me more particularly the past year, with the S^eate mercies of God preserving me, and in some measure making my mfirmm^^^ tolerable I gave God most hearty and humble thanks, beseechmg H m to confirm to me the pardon of my sins past, and to prepar^^^^^^ for a better life by the virtue of His gTace and mercy, for the sake ot "Z^Z^'t:".^ and uncomfortable weather staying us^ ffom church ?his morning, our Dr. officiated m my f--^' ^ ^^^^^^^^ present above 20 f^J^^l^^^ pertinent inferences to prepare us ^^^^^^^/J^^^^;/"^ subversion of woods ^""^ ^'^J/ J^^ouse the woods cr^^^^ through my whole estate, and f r'/^""^ ^leadow, the damage to garden mount, and growmg ^'""Sj^'/Jf^Cst tragical, not to be my own dwelling, farms and ""'''""f f ' . I am not able to pa«llel'd with any thing happeinng m our ag • Lscribe it, but submit to the pleasu^^^^^^^ all well, but 7 Dec. I remov'd to Dover street wn ^^^1^ ,e.r; gifts according to cu..m^_^^^^^^^^^ $88 THE KING OF SPAIN AT WINDSOR. 1704. Jan. The King of Spain' landing at Portsmouth, came to Windsor, where he was magnificently entertain 'd by the (2ueene, and behav'd himselfe so nobly that every body was taken with his graceful deportment. After 2 days, having presented the greate Ladies and others with very valuable jewclls, he went back to Portsmouth and immediately imbark'd for Spain. 16. The Lord Treasurer gave my grandson the office of Treasurer of the Stamp duties, with a salary of £.300 a year. 30. The Fast on the martydom of King Cha. 1. was observ'd with more than usual solemnity. May. Dr. Bathurst, President of Trin. Coll. Oxford, now died'', I think the oldest acquaintance now left me in the world. He was 86 years of age, stark blind, deafe, and memory lost, after having ben a person of admirable parts and learning. This is a serious alarm to me. God grant that I may profit by it. He built a very handsome Chapel to the College, and his own tomb. He gave a legacy of money, and the third part of his library, to his nephew Dr. Bohun, who went hence to his funeral. 7 Sept. This day was celebrated the thanksgiving for the late greate victory ^, with the utmost pomp and splendour by the Qucene, Court, greate Officers, Lord Mayor, Sheriffs, Companies, &c. The streets were scaffolded from Temple bar, where the Lord Mayor presented her Majesty with the Sword, which she return'd. Every Company was rang'd under its banners, the Citty Militia without the rails, which were all hung with cloth suitable to the colour of the banner. The Lord Mayor, Sheriffs and Aldermen were in their scarlet robes, with caparison'd horses ; the Knight Marshall on horseback ; the Foot Guards ; the Queene in a rich coach with 8 horses, none with her but the Dutchess of Marlborough in a very plain garment, the Queene full of Jewells. Music and trumpets at every Citty Company. The greate Officers of the Crown, Nobility and Bishops, all in coaches with 6 horses, besides innumerable servants, went to St. Paul's where the Deane preach'd. After this the Queene went back in the same order to St. James's. The Citty Companies feasted all the nobility and Bishops, and illuminated at night. Music for the Church and Anthems compos'd by the best Masters. The day before was wet and stormy, but this was one of the most serene and calm days that had been all the yeare. October. The year has been very plentifull. December. Lord Clarendon presented me with the 3 volumes of his Father's History of the Rebellion. 31 Oct. Being my birth-day and 84th year of my life, after particular reflections on my concerns and passages of the yeare, I set some con- ' Charles the Third, afterwards Emperor of Germany, by the title of Charles the Sixth. 2 There is a very good life of him, with his portrait prefixed, by Mr. Thomas WariVA Fellow of Trinity College, and Poetry Professor at Oxford. » Over the French and Bavarians at Blcnlieim, August 13, 1704. THE BTARY OF JOHN EVFLYN. 589 siderable time of this day apart to recollect and examine my state arci condition, giving God thanks, and acknowledging his infinite mercys to me and mine, begging his blessing, and imploring his protection for the year following. Dec. My Lord of Canterbury wrote to me for suffrage for Mr. Clarke's continuance this yeare in the Boyle Lecture, which I willingly gave for his excellent performance of this year. 1705. 4 January. I din'd at Lambeth with the Abp. of Dublin, Dr. King, a sharp ready man in politics, as well as very learned. June. The season very dry and hot. — I went to see Dr. Dickinson' the famous chymist. We had long conversation about the Philoso- pher's Elixir, which he believ'd attainable, and had seen projection him- selfe by one who went under the name of Mundanus, who sometimes came among the adepts, but was unknown as to his country or abode ; of this the Doctor has written a treatise in Latin, full of very astonishing relations. He is a very learned person, formerly a fellow of St. John's Coll. Oxford », in which citty he practised physic, but has now alto- gether given it over, and lives retir'd, being very old and infirm, yet continuing chymistry. I went to Greenwich Hospital 1 where they now began to take m wounded and worn-out seamen, who are exceeding well provided for. The buildings now going on are very magnificent. 9 Feb. I went to wait on my Lord Treasurer, where was the vic- torious Duke of Marlborough, who came to me and tooke me by the hand with extraordinary familiarity and civility, as formerly he was us d to do, without any alteration of his good nature. He had a most rich George in a Sardonyx set with diamonds of very greate value ; for the rest very plain. I had not seen him for some yeares, and believ d he '"irremS^^^ A.ues and W//.. prevail much in '''i7MaT' An exceeding dry season.-Greate loss by fire, burning the irphy c He pub ird'several things. Wood's Fasti Oxo". P" 74x. °?;n;s afterwards a Fellow of Merto. He d.ed .n J, , .ha. .dltlon of the Biog. Brit, speaks ^ery h.ghly of Jiun ^^^Fl^ ^^^^ ^ ^^^^^ work, differs much from the Doctor, Uaou^h he^^^^ not knowing who M-ndanus was a Mi Evelyn must have m.staken Dr. ^ickm on^^s to ^^^.^ . Mundanu5 in 1686 the Doctor printed a l^Uer to him w th h^s ans j^j.^enson. said he made two projections m his presence, og 5Q0 FEBRUARY 27, 1706— DIED JOHN EVELYN, ^T. 85. age. She was sister to the Earl of Suffolk, and left a greate estate her jointure to descend to the Duke of Somerset.^ May. The Bailiff of Westminster hang'd himself. He had an ill report. On the death of the Emperor there was no mourning worn at Court because there was none at the Imperial Court on the death of our King William. 18. I went to see Sir John Chardine at Turnham Green, the gar- dens being very fine, and exceeding well planted with fruite. 20. Most extravagant expence to delDauch and corrupt votes for Parliament members. I sent my grandson with his party of my free- holders to vote for Mr. Harvey of Combe. Oct. Mr. Cowper^ made Lord Keeper. Observing how uncertain greate officers are of continuing long in their places, he would not ac- cept it unless ;^20oo a yeare were given him in reversion when he was put out, in consideration of his losse of practice. His predecessors, how little time soever they had the Seal, usually got ;!^ioo,ooo, and made themselves Barons. — A new Secretary of St#.te.— Lord Abington, Lieutenant of the Tower, displac'd, and General Churchill, brother to the Duke of Marlborough, put in. An indication of great unsteadiness somewhere, but thus the crafty Whig-party (as call'd) begin to change the face of the Court, in opposition to the High Churchmen, which was another distinction of a party from the Low Churchmen. The Parliament chose one Mr. Smith Speaker. There had never ben so greate an assembly of members on the first day of sitting, being more than 450. The votes both of the old, as well as the new, fell to those call'd Low Churchmen, contrary to all expectation. 31 October. I am this day arriv'd to the 85th year of my age. Lord teach me so to number my days to come that I may apply them to wisdom. 1706. I January. Making up my accounts for the past year, paid bills, wages, and new year's gifts according to custom. Tho' much in- disposed and in so far advanc'd a stage, I went to our Chapel [in London] to give God public thanks, beseeching Almighty God to assist me and my family the ensuing yeare, if he should yet continue my pil- grimage here, and bring me at last to a better life with him in his heavenly kingdom. Divers of our friends and relations din'd with us this day. 27. My indisposition increasing, I was exceeding ill this whole week. 3 February. Notes of the sermons at the Chapel in the morning and afternoon, written with his own hand, conclude this Diary. John Evelyn died on the 27th of this month. ' This Duke had married EHz. Percy, widow of Lord Cole, only daughter and heir to }L»celine Percy, the nth and last Earl of Northumberland. 2 William Cowper, created a Baron in 1706, and Lord Chancellor, afterwards Viscount ""ordwich and Earl Cowper, by George the First INDEX. TO THE DIARY OF JOHN EVELYN, ibbeville, 41. Abbot, an eminent scri- vener, 397 note, 4T2. Abbot, Abp. his Hos- pital, 226. Abdy, Mr., 176. Acetaria, by Mr. Evelyn, 575. Addresses to the King, origin of, 570. Adscomb, Surrey, Dra- per's house at, 587. Adventures of Five Hours, a play, 291. iEtna, eruption of (1669), 265, 343. Agates, &c. curious, 42, 242, 243. Ague, cure for, 432, 433- Air, experiment on, 284. Aix, in Provence, 70, 71. Albano, tombs of Horatii and Cunatu Albemarle, George Monk, Duke of, 292, 294, 301, 303, 304, 308, 311. 3J3. 325, 329, 330, 437, 443- Slays in London during the Plague (1665), 309- Appointed General at Sea, &c. 310. Victory over the Dutch fleet, 313, 3i4- Share of a Spanish Galleon (1687), 510. Albury, villa at, .243. Alcoran, written on a sheet of calico, 230. Aldobrandmi Car- dinal, 145, 146. Alexander IIL Pope, painting respecting, 114. Allegri, Antonio da Corregio, paintings by, 52, 80, 110, 133. 458,565. Allen, Capt. Sir 1., 304. 3o6, 355. AUcstree, Dr., 270, 276, 341, ,342, 384, 413, 422, 515. Alleyn, Edward, College ft buiwich founded by, 387. A ington, preacher against regicides, 239. AUington, Lord 11^7 354. Allix, Dr. Peter, 493, 501. 'All Souls' College, 300. Alps jour- ney over, 185-189. Althorp, Lord Sun- derland's seat, 386, 541. • u <.n Ambassadors, French and Spanish, en- couiuer between 277, 278. Amber, spider inclosed in, 434- Amboise, Cast e of, 63, 64. Ambrosian Library at Milan, ibr, 182. Airmanati, Vincenzo, architect, 13a. Amphitheatre at Vienne, 69; at Perigueux, 72; of Vespasian, 97: ^t Verona, 178. An^sterd-im, visit to, 27, 28. ^Anatoniy, «:hoolsof,at Leyden, 30 ; at P^d;;^..^^9. m. Anchor, method . of casting (Acts /xvii.) 57. Anderson, bw Rich., 44^. An- loyne. Abbot of, 37- Andrews, Bp. Vl A"? 468. Angehco, apothecary, of Vlnce-S, \j-J. Ang^cloni, Signer his me- ^-,1- flrr- an i-xT. Anglcsea, Valtntia, Fail of 33?f'428 AnjoiT. Duke of, per- forms in an'opeia (1651), 210 ; ambassage Aline"" Pl"ess-(aft&wards Queen), 477, 493 5.6: 52X535, S50. 561 ; her marriage, 406. 467 ; refuses to dismiss Lndy Mart- borough, 548 ; William HL reconciled to^ 559 ; entertained, when Queen, at Oxford. &c. 584 ; goes in procession to St. Paul's Cathedral, 585, 588. Antenor, founder of Padua, inscriptions to, 165. Antichrist, on the final destruction of, 533. Antoninus, Aurelius, column of, 137. Antonio Marc, singer, 148. Ant- werp, visit to, 34, 35. Apennines, passage over, 155, 156. Aponius, Peter, bust of, at Padua, 169. ' Apology for the King,' by Mr. Evelyn, 262. Appian Way, its extent, 120, 122. Aquapender.te, town of, 85. Ara Coeli, church of, at Rome, 90. Ara- bian horses, account of some, 461, 462. Arc, Joan of, statue of, 60. Architecture, Parallel of ancient, with modern, by Eve- lyn, ^00. Aretiiie, epigram on, 168 note. Argyle, Marquis of, 24S, 250; his rebellion, 477 ; executed, 479. Arlington, Lord. 278, 279. 283, 296, 301, 3o\ 425. Arundel, Ear , ot » or . , riano 175. Arundel of Wardour, L-^r.l S) 262 ;(i664-i6S5). 296, 353. 357, 4;o . Arundelian V^brary, obtained b> En Roval Society, 326, 402. Arundeli > Ses', obtained for University oU.^^ Srst,'sfrW.56r. 568. Atk.ns. . 592 INDEX. 377. A erbniy. Dr. 582. Attorneys, number f, reduced, 577. Aubigny, Lord, ai7, 280, 296. Audley End, Karl of Suf- folk's, 240, 347, 396, 448. Avernus, Lacus (Naples), 130. Auger, Sir Anth., 331. Augustus' aqueduct, 119; Temple of, at Puteoli, 182 ; Mausoleum at Rome, 200. Av'ignon, 70. Aungier, Lord, 241, 400. Aurelius, Marcus, statue of, 116. Aurum Potabile, prepared by M. Roupel, 226. Axtall, regicide, executed, 268. Ayles- bury, Earl of, 437, 525. Ayscue, Sir George, taken by the Dutch 314. Backhouse, William, 490, Bacon, Sir Ed- ward, 393. Bad'jn, Prince Louis of, in London (1694), 555. Baglione, Cava!. Giovanni, paintings hy, 88, 136. Baise of the Romans, 127, 130, 131. Baker, Mr., Epping Forest, 343, 440. Baker, Capt., attempted the North-west Passage, 390. Baldarius, Andrea, 168. Ball, Sir Peter, 282. Balle, P., gift to Royal Society. 294. Bancroft, Bp., his library, 240. Baiidinelli, productions of, 79, 81, 82, 152. Bank of England established, 556, 558, 56S. Banks, Sir John, an opulent merchant, 390. Ban- queting-house, auction of pictures at, 553. Bansted, Roman medals, &c., found near, 2S9- Baptism, private, without necessity, censured, 532. Baptist, Signior John, mu- sician, 459, 463. Baratarius,\Nic., archi- tect, 162. Barbadoes, conspiracy of negroes at (1693), 55^- Barberini, Card. F., his courtesy to Englishmen, 104, 121, £45. Barclay, John, his ' Icon Auimarum." 223. Bargrave, Dr., 365. Barill, 196. Baril- lon, Mons., 495. Barlow, Bp., 230, 299, 333, 334, 341, 384. Barlow, Francis, painter, 3S2, 428. Bar- low, Rlrs., Mistress of Charles II., 201, 482. Baronius, Caisar, 124. Barrow, Dr., sermon by, 382. Bartholomeo, picture by, 221. Bartholomeo, Signior, musician, 412, 432, 470. Bartholomew Fair, 156, Basil, Council of, original acts of, 230. Basire, Dr. Isaac, 280, 2S9. Bassompiere, Mons. de, his palace, 42. Bath, visit to (1654), 229. Bath, Grenville, Earl of, 272, 390, 398, 437, 442,^465, 468, 478, 511, 540, 566, 582. Bath, Knigiitsof, ceremonies of (1661), 272. Bathurst, Dr. Ralph, 313, 326, ^.•^33, 381, 384, 588. 3aynards, at Ewhurst, 252. Baynton, Sir E., 232. Bear-garden, sports at, described, 345. Beauchamp, Lady, 242. Beaufort, Duke of, 440, 447, 577. Beckfonj:, Lady, 415, 426. Bede, MS. of, in the Bodleian library, 230. Beddington, 19, 258, 579. Bedford, Earl of, 272, 336. Bedford Hou.rounker, Mr. Hen., 354, 401, 421. Brown, Sir Adam, 406, 475, 585. Brown, Sir Ambrose, 241, 258. Brown, Sir Richard, temp. Eliz. & Jac, 438. Brown, Sir Richard, Ambassador to France, father-in-law to Evelyn, 195, 202, 205, 206, 213, 214, 216, 223, 224, 270, 336, 384 ; his support of the Church while abroad, 265 ; disappointed of the wardenship of Merton College, 176 ; resigns the clerkship of the Council, 361 ; mas'ter of the Trinity House, 371 ; his death and funeral, 437 ; eulogium of him, 438, 439 ; debts owing to, from the ("rown, 509. Brown, Lady, 221, 224. Ih own, Sir Tho., 359 ; his curiosities, 360. r.ruce. Lord, 164, 246, 454. Brussels, 35— 37. Buckingham, Geo. Villiers, first Duke of, 245. Buckingham, second Duke, 201, 236, 301, 337, 354, 360. 412 ; his ' Rehearsal ' performed, 361 ; his glass-work, 392. Buck- ingham, Duchess of (1686), 501. Buckle, Sir Chris,, 259. Buda, thanksgivmg on the capture of, 503- Bull, Mr., F.R.S. 275. l^uonarotti, Michael Angelo, architecture of, 86, 90, 93, 94, 96 ; paintings, 52, 106. 115, 119, 152, 566; sculpture, &c., 79, 81, i®3, iJ7, 108, 140, 152, i53> 154. 512. Burial in churches, censured, 532. Bur- leigh, Cecil, Lord, 39 : letters, 240. Bur- leigh-on-the-biU 236, 587. Burlington, l.arl of (1688), 451, 522. Burnet, Dr. 408 4x7 ; Evelyn contributed to his Hist, of th( Reformation, 427 ; his preaching, 435, 529, 569. 577 ; pastoral letter burnt by the liaiiij- man, 559. Burton, Sheriff of Surrey, 452 Burton, Mr., of Honson Grange, 468, Hury St. Edmunds, 393. Bushell's wells at En- stone, 299. Butler, Mrs. (1674), 381, ^"aen, 55, 56. Cagliari, Paolo, 52, 53, 15J 162, 167. Calais, 40, 201. Calchography History of, 285. Calista, comedy of, per formed at court, 380. Cambridge, Colleges, 239, 240. Camden's Britannia, edition of ^'•695)> 560. Camomile flowers, fumes of, for headache, 199, Can, Dr., 457, Cannon, remarkable one at Venice, 167, Canter- bury Cathedral, 38, 303. Capel, Lord, trial and death (1649), 198, 199, 268, 415. Capel, Sir Hen. (Lord Capel of Tewks- bury), 328, 402, 407, 451, 483, 514, 548, 554- • Capellus, Mons., 534. Capitol at Rome, 83 — 90. Caprarola, palace of, 216. Caracci, Agostino, gallery painted by, 86. Caracci, Annibale, 91, 137, 156, 166, 270, 277. Ca- racci, Ludovico, 156. Caravaggio (Poli- doro Caldara), 92, 139. Cardigan, Brude- nell, Earl of, creation of, 196. Carew, Mr., harper, 200, 297. Carlingford, Lord, new fuel projected by, 524. Carlisle, Howard, Earl of, creation of, 272 ; Court of Muscovj- complain of him as Ambassador, 291. Car- marthen, Lord (1701), 581. Carnarvon, Earl of, 191. Carnivals, at Naples, 125 ;at Rome, 141, Caroline, Queen of George II., 328, Carshalton, 259, Carteret, Sir Geo., 201, 266, 289, 293, 354, 504, Cartwright, Col., 555. Cartwrlght, Archdea- con of St, Alban's, library, 517. Cartwright, Dr., Dean of Ripon, 501. Cary, Patrick, brother of Lord Falkland, 86. Car>', Mrs., 251, Cashiobury, 415. Castel Franco, Geo,, 160. Castel Mellor, Cfflunt de, 399, 480, Castlehaven, Lord, 437, 442. Cas tlemaine, Lady, 335, Cat, singular kind (probably the Mocock), 252, Catanea, earthquake at (1693), 552. Catherine (Queen of Charles II.), 448 ; P" arrival, 284 ; her person, 285 ; procession on the Thames in honour of, 257 ; toilet, 373 ; birthday (1672), 370 ; (1684), ^60 ; grief on Charles's death, 467, 469: stavs in England, 516. Cathedrals, notices of, in England, 38. 229, 231, 233, 234, 237, 238. Abroad, 44, 55, 7^'^ 83, 149, 180 ; St. Peter's, loi— 104 ; St. John Lateran, 104—106. Catta Malata, statue ol, 166. Cave, Dr., 414. Ccsare, Giuseppe, paintings, 90, 92, loi, 106, 146. Ccstius, C., tomb of, at Rome, 134- Chambourg, palace of, 62. Chardin, Sir John, 419, 453, 455, 456, 502, 509, 5". Charenton, Protestant church at, 52 ; monument at, 202. Charitable Uses, &c., mquiry re specting, 286, 287, Charles, ship, no guns, launching of, 335- ^ „ Charles I., 181, 196, 236, 238, =9° ; procession (1640), on return from the North, and tc the Long Pailiament, 6 ; on proclamiuoe 3^ 594 INDEX. of p.'ace (1642), 23; murder, 197; paint- ings, &c., dispersed, 198 ; statues thrown down, 20D ; prayers used on his martyr- dom, altered (1689), 528 ; Stephens's ser- mon, 576. Charles II. ,201, 217,253,258,313,368,369, 411, 461 ; letter in defence of, 203; declaration to Parliament, and their address to, ib. ; return to London, 265 ; Evelyn's corre- spondence with Col. Morley previous to the Restoration, 504 ; entertained at Guild- hall, 265 ; touches for the evil, ib. ; speech to Parliament, 266 ; Peers created t y, &c., «72 ; coronation, 273 ; opens Parliament, and declares his intention to marry, 275 ; sailing-match between boats of his and the Duke of York's, 277 ; in danger at sea, 286 ; commends Evelyn's writings, and explains his plan of building Whitehall, 300 ; pro- rogues Parliament (1665), 304 ; visits the fleet (1665), 307 ; gracious reception of Evelyn after the Plague, 311, 312 ; orders thanksgiving on fight with the Dutch (1666), 314 ; assumes the Persian habit, 324 ; dines in ancient slate, 331 ; gaming at his Court, gaiety of the ladies, &c. , 334, 335 ; grants a lease to Evelyn, other atten- tions, 337 ; project for getting him a divorce (1669), 344 ; desires Evelyn to write a His- tory of the Dutch war, 345, 348, 351 ; at Newmarket, 357 ; at Euston with Mad. Querouaille, 358 ; attachment to Frances Stuart, 37S ; library at Whitehall, 419, 420 ; alarm at the Rye-house plot, 446 ; profligacy of his' Court, 462, 467 ; his sick- ness and death, 463, 464 ; conduct in his last hours, 465 ; character, 465, 466 ; papers proving him a Roman Catholic, 488, 489 ; anniversary of his Restoration neg- lected (1692), 550. Charles III. of Spain, in England (1704), 587. Charles V., statue of, 37 ; horse-arms, 152. Charles IX., letters of, 240. Charlton, Dr., lecture by, 440. Charlton, Mr., his curio- sities, 504, 539, 547. Charnock, Robert, executed, 565. Charts of the British coast, 438 ;^Chaworth, Lord, 496; Chaworth, Dr., S94. Cheap Cross, London, destroyed, 39. Cheeke family, seat at Burrow Green, 346. Chelsea, 406, 407, 447, 482 ; water-works, 517. Chelsea College, prisoners of war confined at, 303 ; given to the Royal Society, 384 ; purchased to erect the Royal Hospital, 428, 429, 432, 433, 435. Cheney, Lord, and son, 29, 41, 70. Chesterfield, Earl of, 315, 342, 414. Chichley, Sir Thomas, 315, 317, 347. Chlffuich, Mr., King's clo-set-keeper, 280. Child, Sir Jo.s., his great weallh, 439. China, curiosities from, 296. Choppines of the Venetian ladies, 163. Chri.st Church, Oxford, 231. Christ College, Cambridge, 240. Christ's Hospital, 252, 506. Christina, Queen of Sweden, 328, 422. Christmas l>ay, observance prohibited, 224, 226, 254. Chrysostom on Education, translated by Evelyn, 256, 25S. Church-music, altera- tion in, 240 Church of England, collection for persecuted ministers (1658), 257 ; private tast by (1659), 262. Churchill, Sir Win- stan, 490. Churi,hill, Gen , Lieut, of Tower, 521. Churchill, Mr., collection of rarities, 505- Cicero's tomb, 122, 123. Clancarty, Earl of, 519, 542. Clancarty, Countess of, 542. Clan^ ricard. Lord, 223. Clapham, houses at, noticed, 41, 72. Clare, Lord, 236. Clare, Dr., 216, 217. Clare Hall, Cambridge, 240. Clarendon, Edward Hyde, Earl of, 201, 210, 270, 285, 208, 316, 325, 327, 588; attempts to remove him from his office of Chancellor (1656-7), 272 ; his daughter's marriage to the Duke of York, 268 ; elevated to the Peerage, 277 ; visits Mr. Evelyn in state, 287 ; impeached by the Parliament, 327 ; Seals taken from him, 331 ; party in Par- liament against, 272, 331, 332, 333 ; his flight, 334 ; injurious charges against him, 448, 449 ; his conduct contrasted with that of his supplanters, 204. Clarendon, Hen. (Lord Cornbui-y), second Earl, 287, 298, 313, 328, 338, 340, 373, 413, 437, 442, 453, 459, 468, 473. 5ii, 525, 535, 586 ; letters to, on the ' Mystery of Jesuit- ism,' 298 ; Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, 483, 487, 495 ; his recall, 505, 506 ; refused to sit in council with Papists (1688), 522 ; op- posed William's assumption of the crown, 530; sent to the Gate-house (1690), 540; bailed, 541 ; confined in the Tower, 543, 544 ; permitted to take country air, 545. Clarendon, Countess, 270, 416, 458, 472, 480, 490, 535- Clarendon, Ed. (Lord Cornbui-y), third Earl, his account of Denmark (1687), 511 ; goes over with some regiments to the Prince of Orange, 524. Clarendon House built, 298, 313, 325, 327 ; collection of pic- tures at, 338 ; sold and demolished, 443, 448, 457 ; opinion of the house, 448 noie. Clarges, Sir Walter, 558, 578. Clarke, player on the Irish haip, 226, 336. Claude, Mons., forced to quit France, 493 ; his book burnt in England, 499. Clayton, Sir T., 425. Clayton, Sir Robert, 250, 370, 375, 390, 392, 396, 397 407,. 412, 413, 536, 561, 579. Clements (regicide), exe- cuted, 268. Clench, Dr., 526, 527, 547. Cleve, Duke of, 31. Cleveland, Earl of, 292, 325 ; Duchess of, 345, 412, 465 ; her children by Charles II. 359, 368, 391, 498. Clifden, 410. Clifford, Sir Thomas, afterwards Lord, 301, 325. 357, 358—366, 346, 363, 375, 377, 378 ; Lord Treasurer, exchequer closed by his advice, 363 ; inclined to Popery, 364 ; re- signs, 373 ; engaged to the Duke of York not to take the test, 374 ; his character and unhappy death, 325, 374 — 377. (Jlocks, curious, 242, 269, 270. Coale, Gre- gory, 325. Cock, Capt., 301. Coffee intro- duced, 20. Coin, depreciated state of (1694), 558 ; difliculties in reforming it, 563 ; new coinage (1695), ib. ; scarcity of (ir.96), 565, 566. Colbert, French ambassador, ~X5> 337, 357- Colchester, 248. Coleman wJiccuted. 405. Coligni, assassination of, 114. Collins, Dr., of King's College, 239. Collins, Capt., sea-chart by, 438. Cologne, City of, address (.'liarles II., 266. Colone, INDEX. 59!> Battolomeo, statue of, it53. Colonna, Con- nestable, 106 ; vvifeof Colonna, 573. Colum- bus, painting of, 462. C)mr.''.inges, Mons., French ambassador, 292, 301, 307. ' Committee,' a play by Sir R. Howard, 290. Compton, Dr., Bp. of London, 341, 372, 391, 439, 442, 502. Compton, Sir Wm., 278. Conde, Prince of, 198, 201, 202, 203, 221. Confederates (1680), progress of, 534, 535. Conopios, Natn., a Greek, 20. Conscience, liberty of, proclamation for, in Scotland (1687), 506 ; bishops petition the king against reading the declaration for, 515 ; proceed- ings against them, 516, 517. Considera- tion, treatise on, by Dr. Horneck, 440. Constantine the Great, statues of, 90 ; arch, 97 ; obelisk, 105 ; church built by, 140. Convention (i68g), proceedings of, as to disposal of the crown, 22, 526, 528, 530. Convocation (1690), for reforming liturgy, 537, 538 ; notice a passage in a book of Dr. Daveiiant's, 581 ; disagree with bishops, 582. Conway, Lord, 399. Cony, Mr., 388. Cook, Sir Robert, 207. Cook, the regicide, exe- cuted, 268. Cooke, Col., 202, 454. Cooke, Capt., an excellent singer, &c., 242, 249, Cooke, Sir T., discovery about East India Company, 561. Cooper, Mr., limner, 281. Cooper, Lord, creation of, 272. Coque, Mons. le, 536. Cornbury, Lord Corn- bury's house at, 298. Cornwallis, Lord, 272, 421, 461, 467. Coronation and Har- wich ships lost, 546. Cortona, Pietri Berritini di, paintings, &c., by, 90, 92, 148, 153. Cortone, Dr., of Verona, 178. Cosin, Dr., Bp. of Durham, 203, 214, 240, 292, 337, 481 ; in English chapel at Paris, 205, 214; publishing his * Offices,' il>. ; on the purchase of his library, 220. Cosin, John, son of the bishop, perverted to Popery, 217, 320. Cotterell, Sir Ch., 335, 430 ; his son, 366. Cottington, Lord, 201, 210. Cotton, Sir John, 54 ; a great Grecian, 316, 335, 574. Cotton, Sir Robert, 316, 335. Cotton, Lady, 196, 297. Covel, Dr. John, 563. Covenant, Scotch, burnt, 276. Coventry, brief notice of, 235, address to James IL, thanking him for liberty of con- science, 571. Coventry, Sir William, secre- tary to James, Duke of York, &c., 202, 262, 291, 308, 312, 331. Cowley, Abr., 292, 295, 331 ; letters to, 326. Cowper, Mr. (Earl Cowper), lord keeper, 589, 590. Co.v, Capt., Royal Nav}-, 336. 364. Craddock, Dr., Provost of Eton, 410, 41 1 ; sermon of, 498. Crafford, John, 22. Cranburn, Lord, 430. Crane, clerk of Green Cloth, 270. Craven, Lord, 228, 355. Creighton, Dr., 202, 280, 292, 377, 391,483. Cressy's answer to Dr. Pierce, 294. Crcve- ctx'ur, Marquis de, 210. Crew, Bp., .S"^, 503, 504. Crew, Sir Clepesby, 196. Ciew, Lord, creation of, 196. Crisp, Sir Nich., project of, 245, 283. Croft, Dr. Herbert, 'Naked Truth' by, 340, 388, 389. Crofts, Lord, 201, 393. Crombe, Col., 32. Cromwell, Oliver, 196 ; Act of Oblivion, 230 ; ^lasts with Lord Mayor, 227 ; prohibits ministers of the Church from preaching, &c., 245; death and funeral 258, 259, 260; disinterment, 218, 249, 252, 271, 277, 378. Cromwell, Richard, 260. Crowder, Rev. Mr., 216. Crowe, Sir Sack- yille, 306. Croydon Church, monuments in, 579. Croydon, Dr., 2n. Crusca, Aca- demy de la, 153. Cud worth. Dr., 406. Culpepw, Col., 480. Culpeper, Lord, 310, 314, 354. Cumber- land, Dr., Bp. of Peterborough, 543, 544. Curtius, Sir Wm., 211, 298. Custance, Capt., knighted, 307. Custom-house, re- built after fire, 357. Cutler, Sir John, of Deptford, 260, 362, 365. Cyril, patriarch of Constantinople, 20. D'Ada, Ferdinand Count, Pope's nuncio, 495, 511. Daincourt, Lord, 381. Dampier, Capt, 571, 572. Danby, Earl of, 431. Dangerfield, whipped, 479. Darcy, i d- ward, 19, 20. Darien, Scotch book about, 576 ; Parliament vote against the Scotch settling in, 577. Darneford Magna, farm so called, 233. Darnel, Rev. Mr., 244. Dartmouth, Lord, fair on Blackheath pro- cured by, 441, 457, 483. Davenant, Sir W., plays, 260, 280, 290. Davenant, Dr., 554, 581. D'A Vinson, Dr., of Paris, 202. Davis, Lieut., 306 note. Davis, Mrs., 324, 381. Daun, M.,554. Dean Forest, plant- nig of, suggested, 289. Deane, Sir An- thony, 433 ; building men of war described by, 432 ; frigates, fireships, &c., 538, 539, 540. De Creete, painter, 233. I3edham, Essex, 249 ; Deepden at Dorking, 243. Deering, Sir Ed., 416. Delabarr, paint- ings, 200. Delamere, Lord, 524. De I'Angle, M., 442. Del Camp, M., 203. Delft, 27. Delichio, Busq. , bending tower, 150. Denbigh, Earl of (1664), 298. Den- ham, Sir John, 227, 245, 280. Denmark, tyranny exercised in, 511. Denmark, Prince of (1662), 284. Denmark, Prince George of, 461, 462, 511; married to Prin- cess Anne, 446, 447. Deptford, plague at, 314, 316 ; fire in dockyard, 329 ; church built, 574. Derby, Earl of, 203 ; executed, 216. Derby, Lord (1689), 527, 530. Coun- tess of, 391, 419. D'Espagne, Mons., 249. D'Estrades, Mar- shal, obliged Jas. IL to dismiss Protes- tants, 533. Devereux, Lord, 249. De Vic, Sir Henr>', 36, 277,* 327. Devonshire, Earl of (1652), 220. Dtivonsliire, Earl of, afterwards Duke, 530, 554, 567, 572. De- vonshire, Christian (1662), Countess of, 286 ; (1686), 496. Diamoncf and Ruby ships launched, 220. Dickinson,^ !>. E4., 589. Dickvelt, Mynheer, 509. Dieppe, 53 bom- barded, 558. Digby, Earl, of, 463, 694, Digby, Sir Everard, 505. Digby, Sir Kenelm, 32, 227, 230, 277, 7 Mr. Eve- lyn's opinion of him, &c.,2i^>; jr»3. Digby, Mr. J., 175. Digesters, Pap»n% .bone dis- solved by, 434, 435. Diocletian, baths of. at Rome, 93, 94. Diodati, Signior John, 191, 192, 193. Dissenters, Act of Indul" gence for, 534.^ Dives, Sir Lewis, adventures of, nt. 596 INDEX. Diving-bell, trial of, 277. Dobson, paintci, 1 401, 455. Doge of Venice, espousal of the Adriatic, 170. Doily, Sir William, 301, 313, 317, 322. Dolben, Dr., 343, 398 ; Abp. of Canterbu.-y, 447, 498. Dolben, Mr. Jus- tice, 409. Donatelli, statue by, 81. Donna, Count, Swedish ambassador, 335. Dor- chester, Marquis of, 328, 571. Dorchester, Countess of, 401. Dorell, Mr., 258. Major, 368. Dorislaus, funeral of, 200. Dorset, Charles Sackville, sixth Earl of, 530, 561, 567. Dorset, Countess of (1657), 254. Dove, Dr., sermons by, 411, 462. Dover, Earl, 251, 447, 547. Dover, Countess of, 496, Dover Castle, prisoners of war at, 306. Doughi, Cardinal, 84. Douglas, Lieut. -Gen., 537. Douw, Gerard, 421. Downing, Sir George, 316, 351. Drake, Sir Erancis, 249. Draper, Wil- liam, who married Mr. Evelyn's daugh- ter, 552, 553, 554, 562, 569 note, 584, 586. Draper, Mrs., 569, 581. Drebbell, che- mist, 316. Droglieda taken, 202, 540. Dryden, John, plaj's by, 291, 377, 388, 442, 540 ; said to go to mass, 496. Dublin surrendered, 540, 546. Du Bois, paintings, 198, 206, 443. Du Bosse, engraver, 203. Ducy, Sir William (Lord Downe), 196, 261, 262, 297 ; paintings, 198, 227. Duel, fatal one, 556. Duert, Signior, merchant of Antwerp, 135. Dugdale, Sir William, 203, 247, 402—476. l-ake. Dr., 361. Dulwich College, 386. Dumbarton, Lord, 500. Dumblaine, Pere- grine, Vise, 381, 453. Du Menie, che- mist, 211. Duncan, Rev. Dr., 209, 329. Duncomb, goldsmith, 566. Duncomb, Sir Sanders, 20 ; introduced sedans, 132. Dun- comb, Rev. William, 560, 569. Duncomb, Mr., one of the Lords Justices in Ireland, 554. Duncomb, Ant., 570 note. Dun- combe, Charles, parliamentary proceedings against, ib. Duncombe, Sir John, 315, 316, 354, 431. Dundonald, Lord, his scheme of charring sea-coal, 249. Dunkirk, 38 ; Louis XIV. before, 354. Dunstail, Mr., engraver, 325. Duport, Dr., Greek pro- fessor, 276, 369. Duppa, Bp., 421. Duras, Lord (Earl of Eeversham), 387, 461. Durdans at Epsom, 258, 287. Durell, Dr., Dean, 205, 406, 442. Durer, Albert, 52 ; prints, 59 ; carvings, 80, 151, ^43; paint- mgs, 106, 110, 151, 152, 243. Dutch, avarice of, 262; embassy to late Will. III., 534; jealousy concerning the vSpice islands, 274 ; toll for the fishery in Scotland refused by, 191. Dutch bishop, humorous story of, 85, 86. Dutch fleet, daring enterprise (ibbj), in the destruction of ships at Chatham, 328, 329 ; completely block up the Thames, 329, 330, 331 ; encounter with, 331. Dutch war, vigorous prosecution of, on both sides (1665), 306. Earle, Dr. (Bp. of Salisbury), 195, 201, 214, 270, 290. Earnley, Sir J. ,505. Earth and \'cgctation, Mr. Evelyn's discourse on, 384. Earthquakes — in England (1687), 509 ; at Althorpe, &c. (1690), 542 ; in Jamaica, (1690), an'l in all parts of I'^uiope, 551 ; aX Catanea and Malta(i693), 552 ; at Portland (1696), 563 ; at New Batavia (1699), 574 ; at Rome (1703), 585. East India Company, union of, &c. (1657), 254 ; prosperous, 438 ; probable dissolutiouj 534; transactions in Parliament respecting, 548, 572. Ea.st India Company, Dutch, their palace at Antwerp, 35 ; account of the Company (1656), 250. East India Company, Scotch, 566. Eaton, Judge, 200. Ecclesiastical affairs. Commission for (i686), 502. Edgecombe, Sir Rich., 336. ICdgehill, battle of, 38. Edward VI., MS. exercises of, 420. Edward the Confessor, crucifix and gold chain found in his coffin, 485. Eleanor, Queen, 238. Elizabeth, Queen, head of, effigies, &c., 233, 321. Elowes, Sir John, 428. Eltham palace, 247. Elzevir print- ing office at Leyden, 30. Emanuel College, Cambridge, 240. Embalming, new-in- vented method of, 434. Employment, public, and an active life, preferred, 326. England, New, 354, 355, 356, 361, 581. English language, 428. English portraits, collected by Lord Clarendon, 338. Eustone, Bushell's wells at, 299. Epping forest. Earl of Norwich's house on, 343. Erasmus, statue and birthplace, 24 ; por- trait by Holbein, 243. Eremitana, Albert, head of, 161. Erskine, Mr, master of Charterhouse, 411, 426. Essex, Capel, Earl of, creation of, 350 ; his house. Sec. , at Cashiobury, 415 ; character, &c., of, and his lady, 416 ; not privy to the marriage of Lady Ogle and Mr. Thynn, 429 ; com- mitted to the Tower, 443, 444 ; his death, 445» 455- Essling. Mons., of Paris, his gardens, 54. Estcourt, Sir Will., killed, 462. Este, Palace d', at Tivoli, 146. Este, Princess Mary Beatrice d', married to ames, Duke of York, 377. Eve, cele- rated statue of, 162. Evelyn, Sir Ed., elected M.P., 475, 549. Eve- lyn Elianor (mother of John), 17, 18, 19, 20. Evelyn, Eliza (sister of John), 17, 337. Evelyn, Elizabeth (second dau. of John), 332, 483. Evelyn, George (elder brother of John), 17, 22, 196, 197, 198, 220, 226, 297, 475 ; elected M.P. for Surrey, 330 ; a dep.-lieut. of Surrey, 555 ; character, 574 ; family, 575 ; Evelyn, Capt. Geo., traveller, his skill in architecture, 199, 226. Evelyn, Geo., of Nutficld, 555, 558, 559, 574. Evelyn, Geo., his travels, 575. Evelyn, Jane (sister of John), 17, 24, 196, 200, 207, 717. Evelyn, old Sir Jolui, monument at (.udstono, 377. Evelyn, bir John, of God- stone, 200, 226, 258, 262. 294, 358, 579. Evelyn, Sir John, of Dtane, Wilts, 200. 510. Evelyn, John, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 — 38 ; matri- culated at Leyden, 30 ; arrives in London, 38 ; at the battle of Brentford, 39 ; sends % horse accoutred to the king at Oxford, 40; embarks tor l- rance, zd. ; Normandy, 54 ; attacked by robbers, 60 ; arrested by his valot, 65 ; sets out for Italy, 66 ; in the Mediterranean, 72, 73 ; his peril, 72, 73 ; at Genoa, 74; hkvotd by the P>pe, 14s; INDEX. 597 disappointed of a voyage to llic Holy Land, 165 ; matriculated at Padua, 170 ; contributes to Father Kircher's ' Obesilcus Panipliilius,' 171 ; elected Syndicus Artis- tarum at Padua, 172 ; learns the Theorba, 173 ; attends anatomical lectures, purchases preparations, and attends the hospitals, at Padua, 174 ; adventure with a Scotch colo- nel, 183, 184 ; journey over the Alps, 184, 185 ; detained at Mount Simplon, 186, 187 ; catches the small-pox, igo, 191, 193; at Cieneva, 190 ; learns High Dutch and Spanish at Paris, 195 ; frequents a course of cljcmislry, ib. ; marries, 196 ; returns to England, ib. ; visits King Charles I. at Hampton Court, ih. ; sets out for Paris, 200 ; with King Charles II. at .St. Ger- main's, 201 ; presented at an audience with the F'rench regency, 202 ; perilous adven- ture in company with Lord Ossory, 204, 205 ; sails for England, 206 ; in danger from the rebel army, 207 ; returns to France, ib. ; remarks, 208, 209 ; at an au- dience of Sir Richard Browne with Louis XIV., 213 ; returns to England, 218 ; settles at Sayes Court, Deptford, 220 ; robbery committed upon, near Bromley, 222, 223 ; purchases Sayes Court, ib. ; journey into VViltshire, 228 — 241 ; attends a private meet- ing of the Church of England in London, 242, 243, 249 ; applies to Dr. Jeremy I'aylor as his spiritual adviser, 242 ; visits Abp. Usher, 243 ; conversation with Oughtred, 244 ; catechizes his family, 245 ; visits Hartlib, 245 ; attends a farewell sermon on the prohibition of the Church, ib. ; procures ordination for Mons. Le Frane, 'whom he had converted, 247 ; publishes his Lucre- tius, ib. ; journey to the N.E. of England, 249, 250 ; subscribes to the stock of the Eng. East Ind. Co., 254 ; surprised, with many others in Exeter chapel, by the mili- tary, ib. ; grief at the death of his eldest son, Richard, 235 ; death of his son George, 257 ; publishes a translation of Chrysostom on education, 258 ; summoned by Com- missioners for new foundations, 260 , pub- lishes his ' French Gardener,' 260; his inti- macy with Hon. Robert Boyle, 261, 267 ; publishes his apology for King Charles II., 262 ; treats with Col. Morley to bring in the King, 262 ; letter in defence of the King against a paper from Brussels, 263, 264 ; procures Col. IMorley's pardon, 263 ; pre- sented by the Duke of York to the King at the Restoration,'265 ; requested to take out a commission for a troop of horse, but de- clines, 267 ; presented to Anne, Duchess of York, 270 ; chosen a member of the Piiilo- sophical Society, ib. ; presents his ' Circle of Mechanical Trades,' to the Society, ib. ; and his ' Relation of the Peak of Tene- rilTe,' 271 ; Prince Rupert shows him the method of mezzotinto, 272 ; declines the honour of Knight of the Bath, ib. ; presents his ' Panegyric ' on the Coronation of the King, 275; discourses with Charles II. about the Royal Society, 276 ; and presents his ' Fumifugium ' to the King, 277 bis ; sails down the Thames with the King, 278 ; his ' Traiislatien of v^nxspar Naudaeus con- cerning Libraries,' 280 ; receives the thanks of the Royal Society, ib. ; James, Duke of York, ib. ; held the candle while King Charles's head was drawn for the new coin, 281 ; Duke of York visits him, 282, 283 ; attends the King about the palace at Greenwich, ib. ; appointed a commissioner for improving streets, &c., in London, 284, 286 ; attends Prince Rupert to the Royal Society, 284 ; presents his ' History of Chalcography ' to the Royal Society, 285 ; made a commissioner for charitable uses, 286 ; visit of the Queen-mother to, 351 ; Hyde Lord Chancellor's visit to, ib. ; nomi- nated by the King of the Council of the Royal Society, ib. ; sails down the Thames with the King and Queen, 257 ; petitions the King about his own concerns, and goes with him to Mons. Febure, 288 ; presents his ' Sylva ' to the Royal Society, 289, 300 ; at Court, 289 ; suggests the pl.mting of Forest of Dean with oak, ib. ; King pays him a visit at Sayes Court, 292 ; his house broke open, ib. ; made a commissioner of the Mint, 295 ; death of his son Ricliard, ib. ; letter to Geo. Evelyn on the expense of his travels in Italy, 574 note ; with the King, 295 : subscribes to Slingsby's lottery, 297 ; goes with Lord Cornbury into Ox- fordshire, 298, 299, 300 ; appointed a com- missioner for sick and wounded, 301, 302 ; his activity in that office, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307, 308, 309, 310, 312, 314, 316, 317, 325, 328, 335, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369 ; publishes a part of the ' Mystery of Jesuit- ism,' King Charles commends it, 303 ; visits the Royal Menagerie in St. James's Park, 304 ; entertained on board the fleet at the Nore, 307 ; sends his family from London on account of the pKague, but re mains there himself, 309 ; passes through the infected parts of the city, 309, 310 ; graciously received, and his services ac- knowledged, by King Charles and by the Duke of York, 311, 312 ; his plan for an in- firmary for sick and wounded, ib. ; closetted with the King, ih. ; elected of the Council of the Royal Society, ib. ; with Prince Rupert at the Nore, 315: made a Com- missioner for the forming and making of saltpetre, 315, 316 ; a Commissioner for re- pair of old St. Paul's Cathedral, 317 ; wit- nesses the awful fire of London, 319, 320 ; presents his plan for rebuilding London to the King, 322 ; overturned in his carriage, 325 ; letter by Sir Sam. Tuke on the fire of London and noticing his plan for rebuilding the City, 148, 149,150; Pen.ian habit as- sumed by the King, which be had recom- mended in his ' Tyrannuo,' 324, 325 ! library and MSS. of the Earl of Arundel given to the Royal Society by his means, 326, 402 ; publishes his ' Public Ernploy- ment preferred to Solitude,' 326 ; visits the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, 327, 328 ; conducts the Duchess of Newcastle to a meetine of the Royal Society, 328 ; with King Charles II. ib. ; commanded by his Majesty to search for pe.Tt, 329 ; liis receipt 59« INDEX. for making houlHes (a mixture of charcoal and loam) tried, 330 ; obtains the Arun- deh'an marbles, 332 ; University in Convo- cation present their acknowledgments to, 332, 333; 334 ; gives the Royal Society his tables of veins and arteries, ib. ; gives a quantity of bricks towards building a college for Royal Society, 335 ; lease of land granted to, by the King, 537 ; publishes his ' Perfection of Painting,' 337 ; list of great men whose portraits he recommended Lord Clarendon to procure, 338 note ; his ' History of the Four Great Impostors,' 339 ; degree of Doctor conferred on him by the University of Oxford, 342, 343 ; affliction on account of his brother Richard, 343, 344, 345 ; pressed to write the history of the Dutch war, 345 ; draws up a draught of it, 348 ; the King orders official docu- ments to be given, 349, 350, 357 ; intro- duces Gibbon, the carver, at Court, 350, 35 1) 352, 353 ; appointed on a Council for foreign plantations, 352, 353 ; attends the meetings of, 354 — 357, 360, 361, 362, 365, 369, 370, 377 : he and his wife entertained by the Trinity Company for passing a fine of land for their almshouse, 353 ; his law- suit with Mr. Cock, 355 ; dines with King Charles II. at Euston, 358; lease of Sayes Court granted to, by the King, 361 ; con- versation with Lord Sandwich, and reflec- tions on his death, 366, 367 ; reads the first part of his ' Dutch War' to Lord Clifford, 369 ; chosen Sec. of Roy. Society, 370 ; sworn a younger brother of the Trinity House, 371; Lord _ CliflTord's prophetic farewell to, 375 ; his ' Navigation and Commerce, their Original and Progresse,' 379 ; character of Sir Wm. Petty, 381, 383 ; 'Discourse of Vegetation,' 384; Lord Berkeley confides his estates and property to> 387, 388, 389, 391, 392 ; the Queen entertained at Sayes Court, 389 ' a copy of * Marmora Oxoniensia Arundcliana ' pre- sented to him, by the University, ib. ; treats for marriage of his son with dau. of Sir John Stonehouse, 414; last conversa- tion of, with Lord Ossorj-, 417, 418, 4:;); consulted by Sir Stephen Fox about Chel- sea Hospital, 432 — 435 ; attacked with ague, and settles his affairs, ib. ; declines standing the election for President of Royal Society, 438 ; disposes of his East India adventure, ib. ; his account of Sir Richard Browne, 439 ; plants his walks at Sayes Court, 441 ; declines a lucrative employment from conscientious motives, 449; attends the King on a visit to the Duchess of Portsmouth, 450 ; visits the Lord Danby in the Tower, 453 ; consulted by Dr. Tenison about erecting a public library, 456 ; his ' Account of the Winter of (1683— 4)', published in Phil. Trans. 457; consulted about building over Berkeley Gardens, ib. ; assists in proclaiming Tames II. on the death of Charles, 4O8 ; his affliction on the death of his daughter Mary, 469—474 ; death of his daughter Elizabeth, 483; James II. 's gracious re- ception of, ib. ; accompanies Mr. Pepys to Portsmouth to attend on James IL, 4S4 — 487 ; of Mr. Pepys, abcut papers tend- ing to prove Charles II. a Roman Catholic, 488, 489 ; appointed a Commissioner of Sewers, 493 ; and a Commissioner for exe- cuting the office of Privy Seal, 495 ; trans- actions, 496 499, 500, 502, 504 ; refuses the Privy Seal for printing missals, 498 ; and declines attendance, ib. ; refuses Privy Seal for printing popish books, 500 ^ in at- tendance on James II. on his birthday, 503 ; reflections of, on King James's (at- tempted) introduction of popery, 505, 50C ; commissioners for Privy Seal dismissed, ib.; particulars relating to his lawsuit, which was terminated by the favour of James II., 508, -09, 510 ; appointed a governor of St. Thomas's Hospital, 511 ; petitions to be allowed charges as a commissioner of sick and wounded, 514 ; letter to Abp. Sancroft, detecting machinations of the Jesuits, 53.- prayer on the anniversary of his birthdc^ (68th year), 522 ; Abp. Sancroft thanks him for his letter, 525 ; his examination of th« extraordinary talents of Dr. Clench's soi\, 526, 527 ; his remarks on Queen Mary II., 529; conversations with Abp. Sancroft and Bp. Lloyd, 532, 533, 534 ; his portrait taken again by Kneller, ib. ; prayer on his birthday (1689), 536 ; conversation witti Mr. Pepys on the Navy, 538, 539 ; dines with Sir G. Mackenzie, ib. ; conversation with Dr. Lloyd, 240, 241 : becomes one of the bail for Lord Clarendon, 541 ; en- courages Dr. (afterwards Sir) Hans Sloane to write a history of Jamaica, 543 ; at the funeral of Mr. Boyle, 547 ; a trustee for the Boyle Lecture, 548, 555 ; his opinion of Dr. Bentley's Boyle Lecture, 549 ; Mr. Draper's marriage with his dau. Susanna, 552 ; declines Presidentship of the Royal Society, 555 ; Duke of Norfolk's kindness for the Evelyn family, 555 ; goes with his family to live with his brother at Wotton, 557 ; his conversation with Marquis of Nor- nianby, about Charles II., 558 ; treasurer of Greenwich Hospital, 559, 568 note, 581 ; his account of the death of Queen Mary, 559 ; furnished the additions to Surrey in Camden's ' Britannia ' (1695), 560 ; one of a committee to survey Greenwich House, 561, 566 ; his intimacy with Dr. Tenison, 558, 561, 562 ; interests himself about the Royal libiary at St. James's, 563, 571 , settles the Boyle Lecture in perpetuity, 565 ; lets his house in Sayes Court to Adm. Benbow, 566 ; first stone of Greenwich Hospital laid by him and others, 567 ; letter to Dr. Bohun, noticing his employ- ment, at Wotton, his grandson and dau. Draper, 569; goes with the Surrey address of congratulation for peace to King Wil- liam III., 570; his house at .S.tyes Couit let to Peter the Great, 571 ; affliction for the loss of his son, 572 ; regret for his brother Richard's death, 574, 575 ; settles at Wotton, 576; his prayer on completing his 80th year, 580 ; his concern for the ill- ness of his grdson., tb. ; subscribes towanls re-building Oakwood chapel, al Wotton INDEX. 582 ; liDlds his. courts in Surrey, 583, 584 ; ni5 tables of veins and arteries ordered to be engraved by the Royal Society, 583 ; rf jcted a member of Soc. for propagating Gospel in foreign parts, 584 ; pious examin- ation of himself on completing his 82nd year, 585 ; resigns the treasurership of Greenwich Hospital to his son-in-law Dra- per, 586, 587 ; account of his treasurership, 581 ; recollection of himself at 83, 587, 588 ; conversation with Dr. Dickinson about philosopher's elixir, ib. ; Duke of Marl- borough's condescension to, 58^ ; his sick- ness, 590 ; his death, ib. ; Christmas hos- pitality to his neighbours, 301, 302, 339, 343> 377 ; ' Essay on Manuscripts,' 263 ; his published works, 83 ; list of his works, from the ' Biographia Britannica,' 87, 88, 89 ; etchings by, ib. Evelyn, John (third son of John), 242, 325, 398 ; presented to Queen-mother, 270 ; entered of Oxford University, 326, 340 ; admitted of Middle Temple, 365 ; pub- lished a translation of ' Rapinus Hor- torum,' 370 ; a younger Brother of the Trinity House, 373 ; went with Lord Berkeley into France, 386, 389 ; his mar- riage, 414 ; sent into Devon by Lords of the Treasury, 512; commissioner of Irish revenue, 551 ; his death, 572. Evelyn, John (grandson of John), birth, 433; at Eton, 550 ; entered at Oxford, 571 ; at- tacked with small-pox, 580 ; commissioner of prizes, 582 ; treaty for marriage, ib. ; treasurer of stamp duties, 588. Evelyn, Mary (dau. of Sir Rich. Browne, and wife of John Evelyn), marriage, 195, 218, 220 ; Charles IL's condescension and promise to, 269, 271; Princess Henrietta thanks her for the 'character' she had presented, 270 ; presented a copy of a miniature by Oliver to Charles IL, 276. Evelyn, Mary (daughter of John), 310, 378, 406, 432, 463, 469, 474. Evelyn, M. Lady Wyche, 196, 197, 549. Evelyn, Richard (father of John), 17, 18, 19, 23. Evelyn, Richard, of Woodcote (brother of John), 17, 22, 196, 197, 252, 207, 337, 340, 343, 344. Evelyn, Richard (son of John), 223, 235, 256, 527. Evelyn, Susanna (daughter o'John), 340, 552. Evelyn, Mons., 344. ' Evening Lover,' a play, 336. Ev?rard, Mis., 206. Eversficld, 415, 426, 574. Evertson, Capt., 305, 306. Euston, seat at, 357. 358, 359. 394, 395. 396- Exchequer sh'it up (1672), 363. Excise, &c. , duties let to farm by James IL, 468 ; Scots grant them for ever, 476. Execution at Rome, 148. Exeter College, comedy performed by, 20. Exeter chapel, communicants at, suqjrised, 254. Exeter, Earl of, 236, 451. F^xhalation, 6ery, 555. Exomologetis, 294. Experiment new ship, 301. Exton, Dr., 294. Eyre, Mr. Justice, 568. Fairfax, Major, 396, Falconberg, Vise, 398, 442. Falkland, Lord, 458, ,^73, 557. Falk- land, Lady, 471, 472. Kalnunith, Chas. Ber- keley, Earl of, 278. Family of Love, 500* FaneUi, statues by, 285. Fanshawe, Rich., 220, 241, 274, 286. Farnese palace, 86, 118.. 133. Farnese, Cardinal, 106, 149. Faubeit, Mons , 429, 436, 461. Fearne, Dr., 262. Fell, Dr., 276, 299, 304, 342, 501. Felton, Sir John, 393. Fenwick, Sir John, 566, 568. Ferguson, conspirator, 445, 4S0, 481. Feria, Duke of, 182. Fermor, Sir Wm, (Earl of Pomfret), 407, 427, 543, 548. Fer* rara, 157. Ferrarius, Dr., 180, 181. Fer- rers, Barons, Oakham, 236. Fete Dieu, 64. Feversham, Earl of, 387, 461, 465, 479. 524. Fiammingo, Ger., 94, 102, 148, 206. Fiat, Mons , 229. Field, Bp. of Oxford, 19. Fienncs, Dr., 584. Fiesola, Gio. di, 14c. Fifth Monarchy men, 252, 270. Fihner, Sir E. 452. Finch, Lonl Keeper, in Holland, 25, 28, Finch, Lord Chancellor, Earl of Nottingham, 301, 355, 425. Finch, Mr., Earl of Aylesford, 407, 467, 507, 511, 568.^ Fire-ships, 539. Fireworks at Rome, 109 ; in St. James's square, 563. Firmin, Mr , 536. Fish, horn of, 296. Fitzgerald, Lady Cath., 458. Fitz- Harding, Lord, 574. Fitzpatrick, Col., 509. Flamen, Nic. , 59. Flamsted, Dr., 391, 416, 447, 458. Fleet, engaged (1665), 305 ; victory, June (1665), 306 ; at the Nore, 307 ; victory, June (1666), 314, 315 ; sad state of the English tleet. 315 ; English and French fleets (1672), 366 Fleetwood, Bp. 3S9. Florence, 79 — 83, 150, 153; palace of Pitti, 79; Palazzo Vecchio, 77—81; church of the Annunciata, 82, 151 ; Poggio Imperiale, 150; repository of curio.sities, 152; old palace, ib. ; Leopold's collection, 153 ; Sig. Gaddi's, ib. ; Academy de la Crusca, ib. ; Church of St. Lawrence, ib. ; artists, 154. Florival, Mons., of Geneva, 573. Fog, remarkable (1699), 575. Fontaine, Mrs., 247. Fontainebleau, 52, 53. Fontana, Annibal, carving by, 180. Fontana, Do- menico-Maria, works of, 95, 96, 100, 105, ic6, 116, 136, 139, 156. Fontana, Lavinia, 117,133. Forbes, Mr., 457. Force, Duchess de la, 536. Forster, Sir H., 229. Fcther bee, Sir John, 28. Fowler, Dr. Ed., Bp. of Gloucester, 543. F'owler, Sir T. , 228. Fox, Sir Stephen, 317, 407, 411, 412, 414, 421, 431, 437, 441, 450, 454, 459, 473, 484, 505 ; forms regulations for Hospital at Chelsea, 428, 432, 435,436. Foy, Dr., 571. Frainpton, Rob., I3p. of Gloucester, 362, 370, 543- Franc, Mons. le, 247. France, persecution of Protestarts, 478. Francesco, Sig., 380, 432. Francis I., tomb of, 41. Francis \ Paula, St., epitaph, 64. Eraser, Sir Alex., 314. Frederick, Sir John, Lord Mayor, 179. Freeman, Sir Ralph, 290. French refugees, 509. French, Dr., 229, 294. Frene, Mons., of Paris, 52. Frescati, 145, 146. Frey, Hans, 153. Frigates, advantage of, 538. Fromantel, curious clock by, 269, 275 Frowde, clerk to Mr. Locke, 239. F'algo^i. Rodolphus, tomb of, 166. Fuller, Dr. Will., 377. Fuller, paintings by, 300. ' Funiifu- giuin,' publication of, 277, 320. Ciaddi, Sig., of Florence, 153. Gale, Dr. 6oo INDEX. Thos , St. Paul's school, 438, 560, 562. Gallant, Wild, by Dryden, 291. Galley- slaves, 70, 72, 78. Galloway, Bp. of, 205, Galloway, Lord, 261. Gardens, abroad^ 27. 36, 47> 48, 49. 53. 54. 57, 58, 59>. 210 ; Oria's at Genoa, 74, 75 ; Palace of Pitti at Florence, 102 ; Palazzo de Medici at Rome, 91, 92 ; Prince Ludovisio's, 92, 93 ; Villa Borghesi, 98, 144 ; Cardinal Borghese's at Rome, 110; Pope's palace at Rlonle Ca- vallo, iii; Vatican, 1 16 ; Horti ]\[athH.;i, ^35 > garden of Justinian, 142 ; Frescati (Cardinal Aldobrandini's), 145, 146 ; Palace d'Este at Tivoli, ib. ; garden of simples at Sienna, 150; at Padua, 170; at Grand Duke's near Bologna, 153 ; Count Ulma- rini's at Vincenza, 177 ; Count Giusti's at Verona, 179 ; gardens of Palais Cardinal at Paris, 203, 213. In Enj^land, at Wot- ton, 17, 18. 19, 320 ; Lady Brook's at Hackney, 227 ; Mr. Tombs's, ib. ; Physic Gaidens at Oxford, 231, 300, 384; Earl of Pembroke's at Wilton, 233 ; orangery, &c., at Bedington, 258, 579 ; at Albury, 349 ; Lord Arlington's at Eu.ston, 359 ; at Berke- ley House, London, 369 ; Lord Lauder- dale's at Ham, 402 ; Sir Henry Capel's at Kew, ib., 451, 514 ; Countess of Bristol's at Chelsea, 406 ; Earl of Essex's at Cashio- bury, 415 ; Apothecaries' garden at Chelsea, 4S2 ; Sir Wm. Temple's at Sheen, 574. Gardner, Mrs., 208, 216. Garmus, Mr. Ham- burgh, resident in England, 276. Garter, Order of, St. George's day, 327, 328. Gas- coyne. Sir Bern., 347, 360, 399. Gassendus, Vita, Peireschi, edit. (1657), 251. . Gas- sion, — , (soldier), monument for, at Cha- renton, 202. Gauden, Sir Denis, 409, 550. Gaudy, Sir John, 470 ; Gaunt, John of. 37. 235. Geere, Sir R., 461. Geneva, 191, 192, 193; town-house, 192; Campus Martins, tb., 193 ; religion, ib. ; college, ib. Genoa, 73 — 76 ; palace of, 73 ; armouiy, Strada Nova, churches, 75 ; mole and vails, 76 ; dress, inhabitants, ib. ; besieged by the French, 457. Georgia, 419. Ger- main, Lord, 2or. Germaine, Sir John, 578. (^crrard, Lord, 291, 327. Gerrard, Lady, 196, 220, 226, 227, 228. lihent, 27- Ghetto at Rome, 113 ; at Venice, 174. Ghisi, palace of, 113, 137, 139, Gib- bon, Grinling, carver, discovered at work by Evelyn, and introduced to notice of the King, 350, 351, 353 ; carvings by, 351, 353, 400, 411, 417, 436, 461, 505, 506 ; Walpole s account of him, 350; letter to Mr. Evelyn, ib. Gibbs, Dr., 86, 119. Gifford, Capt., 561. Gilbert, lapidary, of Venice, 17^. Gildron, paintings, 200. Gilpin, Bernard, 504. Giolo, the pointed prince, 571, 572. Giorgione (Barbarelli), 258. Giotto (Am- brogotto), 103. Giovanni, Sig., of Florence, 153. Giuseppe, Cavaliero, marbles by, 104. Giusti, Count, his villa, 178. Gladiator, Btalue of, 93. Glanville, Geo. (bro.-in-law of„Evelyn), 198, 225, 544, 583, 584. Glan- ville, Mr., 544, 553, 576, 583. Glas.s-palnt- "'^X. 434- Gloucester Cathedral, 234. Gloucester, Duke of, 1660, 268, 360, 579. '^low-worms, caUed Luccioli, 157. God- frey, Sir Edmundbury, muideroi, 409. Godolphin, Francis (son of Lord), 402, 405, 478, 483, 571, 585. Godolphin, Dr. Henry, 411, 456, 517, 565. Godolphin, Sidney, Lord Godolphin, 368, 382, 387, 391, 392, 393. 401. 405, 406, 408, 4", 459, 4^8, 473. 475. 478, 504, 50s, 524, 542, 550,. 553, 559. 561, 567, 568, 580, 584. Godolphin, Mrs., 34c, 368, 381, 382, 387, 389, 392, 398, 401, 40?, 403, 406, 407, 459, 473, 478, 517, 553. Godstone, 258, 397. Goffe, Dr., 25, 94. Goffe, Col., 254. Golding, Capt., 305. Gondolas, 159. Goode, Dr., 555. Good Friday, 147 Goodman, Dr., 459. Good- rick, Sir Hen., 568. Gore, Mrs., 574. Goring, Col., 25, 31, 38. Goring house, 304, 373, 456. Gotefridi, Sig., 145. Governe, Mdme. de, 501. Goutiere, caves so called,66. Grafton, Duke of, 341, 342, 368, 391, 412, 436, 451, 482, 498. Grafton, Duchess of, 368, 412, 448, 451, 452, 553, 555. Graham, Col. James, 385, 398, 484, 490. Graham, Capt., 391. (jraham, Mrs., 543, 565. Grainmont, RL de, 353. Granada, con- quest of, a play by Dryden, 352. Granado shot, trial of, 328. Grand Seignior's letters to Popes, 182. Graunt, Mr., bills of mor- tality, 38J* Greatorex, mathematical in- slnnnent maker, 247. Grebner, prophetic MSS., 239. Greek authors, lost works of, 267. Greek historians, 631. Green, Anne, restored after hanging, 381. Greenbarrow, painting by, 476. Greenwich, glass-house 2-t, 373. Greenwich Hospital, 561, 562, 565, 566 567, 568, 571, 573, 581, 583, 584, 587, 589. Greenwich, design of building a new palace at, 279, 283. Greenwich Park, the elms planted, 295 ; the observa- tory built, 330. Gregory XIII., Pope, 93 ; chapel, lor. Gregory' XIV., Pope, 108. _ Gregory, Mr. Justice, 568. Grenadiers, introduction of, 400. Gresham, Sir T., statue preserved in the fire of London, 321. Gresham Col- lege, 270, 271, 286, 287, 288, 330. Grey, Lord, 445, 4S0, 494, 504. Griffith, Prince, 204. Griffith, Capt., 217. Griffith, Lord, 553. Griffith, Sir John, 310. Grimaldi family, 72. Grimaldi, Giovanni Fran., 136 Grindal, Abp., 579. Groombridge (Kent\ 223, 379. Grolius, Mons. (.son of Hugo), 174. Grotto del Cane, Naples, 128. Guarda-Damas, office of, 284. Guercino, Eainting by, 156. Guesclin, Bertrand du, is sepulchre, 41. Guildford, Countess of, 270. Guilford, Lord, 575. Guillotine, at Rome, and Venice, similar to one in Eng- land, 148, 167. Guise, Duke of, 353. Gun- man, Capt., 388,474. C'lunning;, Bp., 384; sermons, 254, 257, 2C2, 263, 371, 38S ; cha- racter, 371 ; on the Test, 406 ; death, 460, Guttenberg, John, 31. Gvvynn, NftH, actress, 324, 353, 432, 465. Hacker, regicide, executed, 268. Haerlem, 29, 245. Hague, the, 27, 31. Hale, Chief Justice, 355. Hales, Sir Edw., 243, 2.14. Hales, Sir Edw., Gov. of Dover Castle, 4q8 ; Lieut, of the Tower, 517. Halifax, INDEX. 6oT M.irquis of, 336, 390, 468, 522, 524. 530, I 537> 560. Hall, patent of King's printer to, refused, 498. Hall, Dr., Bp. of Norwich, 439. Hall, Dr., sermon of, 259, 341. Ham, Duke of 1-auderdale's house at, 402. Ham- burgh, siege of, 503. Hamilton, Marquis, 217. Hamilton, Duke, trial (1648), 198 ; execution, 199 ; Hamilton, Duke (1660), 267,522; marriage of his son, 512. Hamil- ton, Duke (1682), 437 ; taken (1690), 540. Hamilton, ].ady, and Geo. her husband, 388. Hamilton, Rev. Mr., 216. Ham- mond, Dr., 229. Hampden, Mr., 423 ; committed to the tower, 443, 453 ; tried, 455. Hampden, Mr. (1693), 554. •Hampton Court, palace at, 284, 535. Hang- ing, woman restored after, 381- Hanmer, Sir Thos., 252 ; portrait of, 462. Hanover, Duke of, excluded from the British throne, (1689), 535. Harbord, Sir Ch., 337, 366. Harbord, ambassador, his death, 551. Harcourt, Count d', 213. Harcourt, Earl of, 534. Harcourt, Sir Simon, 582. Har- lakenton, Mr., 244. Harley, Col. Ed., 404. Harley, Speaker of the House of Com- mons, 581. Harman, Capt.,314. Harrison, Sir John, house near Hertford, 39. Har- rison, Henrj', executed, 547. Hartlib, Sam., visit to, by Mr. Evelyn, 2J,5. Har- vey, Sir Dan., 314. Harvey, Dr , statue, 28S ; anniversary oration, 297. Harvey, Mr., of Combe, 589. Harvvood, Dr., 732. Hatfield, palace at, 39. Hatton, Lord, 201, 204, 208, 252, 277 ; house at Kirby, 239. Hatton, Lady, 200, 254. Hatton, Serj., 196. Hatton Garden, built over, 261. Havannah, Governor of, his misfortunes, 251. Havre de Grace, citadel, 55; bom- barded, 558. H.iusse, AL de, his library, Sec, 52. Hawlcy, Lord, 360. Hayes, Sir James, 368. Haywood, Sir Wm., 360. Heard, Sir Isaac, 476. Hearth-tax, aboli- tion of, 530. Heath, Mr., 218, 236. Heath, Mrs., 334. Heaviside, Mr., 271. Heinsius, Dan.,*3o; library, 445. Helen, St., statue, J02; monument, 106; chapel, 140. Hench- man, Dr., 262. Henchman, Mr., 266. Henrietta Maria, reception at Tours, 66, 201, 270, 289 ; averse to the Duke of York's marriage, 326 ; arrival in England, 269 ; visited Mi-. Evelyn, 287 ; compliment to him, 301. Henrietta, Princess (daughter of Charles L), 269, 270; married to Duke of Orleans, 360. Henry IV. of France, statues of, 43, 53. Henry VIT., »mperor, 150. Plenry VIII., King, an 'OlTice'of, 230; chimney piece belonging to, 243. Henshaw, Thos., 76, 133, 140, 144, 147, 171, 173, 197, 200, 226, 246, 247, 250, 258, 367, 390 ; recommended for an eml)assy by Mr. Evelyn, 268 ; and as French secretary to the King, 277 ; his history of saltpetre, id. ; return from Den- mark, 386, 416. K I raids' College, part of the Arundel library presented to, 402. Herbert, Lord, 227. Herbert, Lord (1665), 30^. Herbert, Lord Chief Justice, bold speech, 501 ; a commis- Moner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502 ; his house at Oatlands, 572 ; attainted. Sec, il>. Herbert, Sir Henry, 220, 303. Herbert, Lady, 203, 208. Herbert, Adm., defeated by the French, 534. Herbert, Mr. (nephew of Lord H.), 433, 544. ' Hercules in Lydia,* an opera, 164. Hercules, temple of, at Milan, 267. Hereford, Lord Viscount, 393. Hervey, John, 245, 402. Hervey, Mr., of Betchworih, 583. Hewer, Dr., 229; con- demned, 257 ; and executed, 358. Hewer, Mr., house at Clapham, 550. Hewson, regicide, executed. 268. Ileylin, Dr., ser- mon by, 271. Hicks, Sir Wm., his house at Ruckholt, 261. Hieroglyphics, stone inscribed with, communicated by Mr. Eve- lyn to Kircher, 171. Higgins, Sir Thos., his daughter, 504. Higham, Rev. Mr, 372 ; .sermons by, 226, 241 ; his death, 372. Highland Dragoons, 555; two Dutchmen killed by one of them, ib. Hill, Mr., F\R.S., 433, 438. Hippodrom at Rome, 134. Hoare, Rich., 200, 225. Hobbes, 406 ; visited by Evelyn, 213, 245 ; book against his ' Leviathan,' 225. Hobson, Mr., of Venice, merchant, 174. Hobson, the Cambridge carrier, 240. Hoefnagle, print by, 316. Holbein, Hans, 198, 228, 243, 270, 401, 402, 420, 451, 507. Holden, Dr., vicar of Deptford, 389 ; character of, 371 ; sermon of, 473. Iloider, Dr., 456. Holland, Earl of, 694. Holland, Sir John, 322. Holland, Embassy to Wm. III. on his accession, 513. Hollar, plan for re- building London, 322. Holies, Lord Den- zill, 272. Holloway, Judge, 517, 533. Holmby House, ruins of, 386. Holmes, Sir Robert, 340, 362, 370, 378, 486. Holt, Lord Chief Justice, 567. Holy Thursday at Rome, 143. Holywell, near Malvern Hills, 234. Homer, ancient edition of, 572. Hondius, of Am- •sterdam, 29. Honywood, Lieut., 25. Hooke, Mr., 295, 309 ; built Montagu House, 389, 451. Hooper, Dr., sermon of, 429. Hope, Th., his scut called Deepden, 243. Hopton, Sir Arthur (brother of Lord Hopton), 200, 485. Horatii and Curatii, tomb of, 133, 134. Horneck, Dr., 440 ; sermon by his son, 575. Horse baited to death, 331. Horseheath, Lord Allington's house at, 346. Hor.-iemanship, Duke of Newcastle on, 327. Horses, Turkish or Asian, brought over, 461. Hoskins, Sir Jo., 419. President of Royal Society, 438. Hospital, called Christ's Hospital, at Rome, 119. Hotel Dieu, and Hotel de la Charite, 46. H(ith:un, commander of Hull, 2j;8. Houblon, I\Ir., merchant, 406, 487 ; his house on Epping Forest, 440. Sir John Houblon, 567. Hough, Dr., made Bp. of Worcester, 542. Houllles, a species of fuel, 330. Flounslow Heath, camp on, 400, 500, 510. Household, comptroller of, pub- lic dinners of, 204. Household, Royal, purveyors regulated, 438, 439. Howe, J., complained of Bp. Burnet's book, 552 ; made a baron, 581. Howard, Anne, wile of Sir G. Silvius, 386, 39/. Howard, Bernard, 286, 462. Howard, Charles, 2S6, 297 ; house at Dorking, 243, 349. Howard, Craven, lawsuit against hii 6o2 INDEX. mother, 386. Howard, Dorothy, married to Colonel Graham, 373, 385, 386, 395. Howard, Edward, 286. Howard, Lord George, fson of sixth Duke of Norfolk, by Mr3 Bickerton), 386. Howard, Henry Lord (grandson of the Earl of Arundel, afterwards sixth Duke of Norfolk), 262, 285, 286, 337, 339 ; at Padua, 173, 175; villa at Albury, pictures, 243, 333 ; com- pounded a debt of his grandfather's of ;^20o,ooo, 285 ; permitted the Royal Society to meet at Arundel House, and gave them the Arundelian library, 326, 339 ; presented the Arundelian marbles to Oxford Univer- sity at Mr. Evelyn's request, 178, 179, 333, 340, 341 ; created Lord on his embassy to Morocco, 334, 540; conversation with Mr. Evelyn respectmg marriage of his son, his own connection with Mrs. Bickerton, his house at Norwich, &c., 359, 360. Howard, Henry (son of preceding, afterwards se- venth Duke of Norfolk), 286, 297, 328. Howard, Philip (afterwards Cardinal), 286, 3 ^4. Howard, Sir Robert (son of the Earl of Berks), 324, 340, 344 ; play by, 325 ; im- peached by Sir W. Pen, 336 ; 'an universal pretender,' 442, 445; his house at Ashted, 457. Howard, Mr. Thos. (son of Sir Ro- bert), 544, 582. Howard, Lord Thomas (son of Henry, sixth Duke of Norfolk), 286, 297, 328, 342, 578. Howard, Lord, of Escrick concerned in the Ryehouse plot, and discovered his associates, 445 ; Alger- non Sidney executed on his single witness, 453. Howard, Mrs. (widow of William, fourth son of first Earl of Berkshire), and her daughters, lawsuit against her son, 3S6. Hoy, Dr., Mr. Evelyn's opinion of his talents, 238. Huddleston, a Popish priest, administered the sacrament to King Charles IL e.rtre/uis, 465. Hughes, Marg., mistress of Ch. II., 324. Hugue- nots, persecution of, in France, 492, 493, 4^8, 499, 501, 503, 511, 513, 514; brief in England for relieving, 498. 499 ; book ex- posing the persecution burnt, 573 ; released and driven out of France, 573 ; remorse, and massacre of those who had conformed to the Romish faith, il>. and 513. Hull, town of, 238. Hume, Col., assumed the name of Evelyn, 583. Humorists, aca- demy of, at Rome, 135. Hungerford, Ed., of Cadenham, 229, 233. Huntingdon, Earl and Countess of, 346. Huntingdon, town of, custom at, 239. Huntingtoure, Lord, 393. Hurcott, manor of (Worcester), 196. Hurt, Mr. , purchased Warley Magna, 244. Observations relative to husbandry, 428. Huss, John, medal of his martyrdom, 461. Hussey, Peter, of Sutton, 349 ; his great attention to husbandry, 428. Hussey, Mr., his attachment to Mr. Evelyn's daughter, and death, 481. Hussey, Mr., married dau. of Geo. Evelyn, 559. Hutcheson, Lady, 346. Huygens, Constantine, 297 ; brief notice of, 356. Hyde, Dr., brother of Sir Henry, &c., 123, 341. Hyde, Anne, married to James Duke of York, 268, 270 504 : Hyde, I^dy Frances, 373. Hyde, Lady Harrietta, 316. Hyde Park, toll at, 215; review in, 498. Hyldiard, Henrj% of East Horseley, 226, 241, 544 ; his sons, 198, 217. Jackson, Mr., heir to Mr. Pepys, 586. Ja- maica, design of the Dutch upon (1673), 370; earthquake at (1692), 551 ; profanely mimicked at the Southwark Fair, 551. James, Duke of York (afterwards K. James IL), 20-?, 306, 307, 329, 349, 365, 366, 368, 377, 380, 389 ; discourse with Evelyn, 280 ; visits him at Deptford. 282 ; account of engagement with the Dutch (1665), 305, 306 ; reception of Evelyn, 311; opposed laying up men-of-war, 330 ; for- bears receiving the sacrament, 363, 372 ; neglects henceforward to attend the Protes- tant worship, 389 ; Commons vote against, for recusancy, 406 ; libellous papers, &c., against, 407 ; his case as to the succession, 426 ; remarkable escape from shipwreck, 435 ; office of admiral, &c., restored to, 457 ; his account of the last hours of Charles II., 464, 465 ; speech in council or his accession, 465, 466, and note ; pro- claimed, 467, 468 ; goes publicly to mass, and opens a popish oratory at Whitehall, 468, 469 ; lets to farm duties of Excise, Customs, &c., 468 ; coronation, 475 ; his first speech to Parliament, 493 ; discourse respecting miracles, second sight, reliques, 485, 486 ; reception at Portsmouth, 486, 487 ; remarks on his character, 527 ; speech to Parliament, 493 : anniversary of his accession, 496 ; birthday (1696), 503 ; speech to a dejjutaiion from Coventry, thanking him for liberty of conscience, 511 ; alarm at the Dutch fleet, 514 ; enjoins the reading of his declaration for lilierty of conscience, and threatens the six bishops, 515 ; consternation at the landing of the Prince of Orange, and proceedings there- upon, 520, 522, 523 ; his flight, return to Whitehall, and second flight, 524 ; com- pared to Maxentius, 527: protest, itc. , against his having vacated the government, 529, 531, 533 ; assisted by P'rance in his Irish expedition, 530 ; in Ireland, 533 ; Scots' reasons for setting him aside, 529 ; surprised Londonderry, 534 ; declaration of pardon, 53^ ; defeat at the Boyne, 540 ; letter to Privy Council and the Queen, re- specting the pregnancy of his Queen, 549 ; declaration of pardon, and submitting all differences to Parliament, 553 ; intended invasion of England, 564 ; Oates's book against him, 565 ; his death, 582. James, Mr., 544. Janicius, Dr., physician 171. January 30, the lirst fast on, 271 Janus Quadrifrontis, temple of, 83. Jar- dine Royale, at Paris, 47. ' Icon Animarum,' nutice of that work, 223. Jeff'eries, Judge, Lord Chief Justice, 450, 452 ; Baron of VVem, 478 ; Lord Keeper, ib., 484 ; made Lord Chancellor, character of him, 492 ; a Commissioner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502. Jeffreys, Dr., minister of Althorp, 518 fenkins, Sir Leoline, -^34 Jertnin. M' TNDFX. 603 ffenry, 328, 357. Jeronimo, painting by, 52. Jersey, Earl of, Lord Cliamborlain, 578. Jesuitism, Mystery of, in three vo- lumes, the second translated and published by Mr. Evelyn, 302, and note ; Mr. Evelyn thanked by Charles II. for it, 303. Jesuits, church, schools, &c., at Antwerp, 33, 34 ; church and convent at Paris, 45 ; church, ^c. , at Rome, 91, 109 ; English college at Rome, 113, 136. Jesus College, Cambridge, 240, 417. Jews at Rome, ceremony of circumcision, 113, 148. Jews at Venice, marriage, 174. Imperati, Ferdinando, exotic plants of, 125. Impostors, four, history of, by Evelyn, 339. Inchiquin, Marquess, 209. Inchiquin, Lord, Gov. of Tangiers, 417. Indian Ambassadors (1682), 435) 436- Indian Queen, a play, 295. In- iirmary for sick and wounded, Evelyn's plan for, 312. Inglish, Esther, beautiful writing of, 23a Ingoldsby, Sir — , house at York, 237. Innocent X., his election, y 5, 84 ; procession to St. John de Lateran, 108. Johnson, Sir — , executed at Tyburn, 543. Johnson, Mr., author of 'Julian,' 455' Jones, Sir Hen., 357. Jones, Sir Wm., 423, 424. Jones, Mr., of Gray's Inn, 355. Jones, regicide, executed, 268. Jo- sephus, history of, on the bark of trees, 182. Jovius, Paulus, museum of, 79. Joy- lil?e. Dr., physician, 198, 250, 253. Ipswich, 249. 393, 394- Ireland, remarks respecting natural history, 382 ; map by Sir Wm. Petty, 382 ; critical state of (1689), 530, 533, 534 ; parliamentary proceedings respecting forfeited estates (1700), 576, 578 ; Lord Galway removed from Lord Lieutenancy, 582. Ireton, Henry, regicide, murders by, at Colchester, 220, 248 ; death, 217 ; funeral, 218 ; disin- terment, 271. Ironmongers' Hall, dinner at (1671), 357. Isaac, Mons., dancing master, 432, 471. Isis, statue of, in Pa- lazzo Farnese, 118. Italian opera, intro- duction of into England, 377. Italian singer, female, great encouragement given to (in 1703), 585. Julio Romano, 52. Jupiter, temples of, at Rome, 87, 88 ; at Terracina, 121. Joust and tournament at Rome, 144. Justel, Mons., 454, 455, 460; arranged the library at St. James's, 543. Justice, statue of, at Florence, 152. Justinian, gardens of, 142 ; statue of, ib. Juxon, Abp., 271. Keepe, Hen., pamphlet by, 485. Keffler, Dr., 316. Keightley, Thomas, cousin of Mr. Evelyn, 226. Keightley, Mrs., her green old age, 426. Keisers Graft, at Amsterdam, 28. Kello, Rev. Bartholomew, 230. Kemp, Mr., of South Mailing, 196. Ken, P>p. of Bath and Wells, his attendance on Charles II. in his sickness, 464 ; sermons by, against Roman Catholics, &c. (1680-7), 485, 49*?, 507, 508, 514, 525 ; one of the six bishops who petitioned against reading declaration for liberty of conscience, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516; tried and acquitted, 517 ; his scruples on K William's accession, 531 ; deprived, 543 ; much beloved in his diocese, Kendal, Dr., 229. Kendrick, Alderman, a fanatic Lord Mayor, 220. Kensington Palace, purchased by King William, 537 ; fire at, 547 ; pictures, &c., 565. Kensington, Mr. Wise's house and gardens, 587. Kent, Earl of, 296. Kent, Countess of, 343. Kent, rising in (1648), 200. Kentish men imprisoned for petition to Parliament (1701), 73. Kew, Sir H. Capel's house at, 402, 451, 514. Keys, T. ^ executed for high treason, 565. Kidd, Captain, pirate, 573. Kildare, Lord, 35o> 351- Killing no murder, by Col. Titus, 340. Kilmorey, Lord, 258.^ King of England, speech in (1686), as.serting him to be absolute, 501. King, Dr., relieved Charles II. in apoplexy, 463. King, Dr., Abp. of Dublin, 80. King, Edward, exe- cuted for high treason, 565. King, Rev. Mr., of Ashted, 258. King's College Chapel. Cambridge, 239. King's Evil, royal touch for, 265 ; great press, 442. King's house- hold, ancient supply of, 270. King-street, Westminster, design of King Charles II. respecting it, 559. Kingston, Evelyn Pienepoint, Earl of, 200, 430, 510, 571. Kinsale, surrender of, 542 Kirby, seat of Lord Hatton, 229. Kirby, Capt. , court- martial on, and shot, 585. Kircher, Father, 105, 109, 139, 243 ; his attentions to Mr. Evelyn at Rome, 91 ; communications by Mr. Evelyn on his John 'Obcliscus Pamphi- lius,' 171, 247. Kiviet, Sir John, account of, 326 ; his proposal to wharf the Thames with brick, 327, 340 ; project relative to draining, 347, Knatch* bull, Sir Norton, sermon, &c., by, 293. Knatchbull, SirT., commissioner of privy seal, 29. Kneller, Sir Godfrey, his portrait of Mr. Evelyn, 534; of Bp. Burnet, 534. Knife -swallowers, 30, 286, 389. Knight, Mr., of Northamptonshire, 226. Knight, Serjeant - surgeon, 364. Knight, Mrs., singer, and mistress of Charles II., 261, 324 ; compass of her voice, 380. Knox. Vicesimus, and Thomas, masters of Tun- bridge school, 306. Koningsmark, procures Mr. Thynn's murder, 433. Lac Tigridis, drug so calM, 297. Lacy, comedian, performance of, 290. La Doree, Mons., 220; Lago di Agnano, Naples, 128. Lago di Garda, 178. Lago Mag- giore, 184. Lake, Bp., 525 ; petitioned James II. against reading the Declaration of Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516; tried and acquitted, 516; absents himself from Parliament, 531. Lakin, Dan., pamphlet by, 2S0. I-,am- bard, Mr., estate at Westram, 226. Lam- beth Palace assaulted by a mob (1640), 23, Lamedrati, sea-horses by, 81. Lamot, jSIons., sermon of, 510. Lamplugh, Dr. sermon of, 373. Lancaster, Dr., vicar of St. Martin's, 551, 576, 577. Lane, Sir T., and Greenwich Hospital, 568. Lane, Mrs., loyalty of, 217. Lanfranco, Giovan., works of, 94, 122, 137, 140. Langdale, Sir Mar- maduke, 202. Langham, Lady, a kins- woman of Mr. Evelyn, 242. Lansdow T< 6o4 INDFX. I . ird, Count of German empire ; nis death, 4O1, 582. Laocoon and his sons, statue of, 116. Lash- ford, Sir R., 349. Last Supper, by Leo- nardo da Vinci, i8r. Lavaran, Mad.ime, singer, 211. Laud, Abp., Chan, of Oxford, 23 ; his palace attacked by the rabble, 23 ; gift to St. John's Coll., Oxford, 230. Lau- derdale, Duke of, 292, 295, 354, 384 ; his house at Ham, 402 ; libels against, 407. Lauretto, Cavalier, of Rome, singer, 148, Law against Lovers, a tragi-comedy, 290. Lawrence, Sir J., pageant as Lord Mayor, 301. Lawrence, Dr., master of Balliol College, 20, 21. Lawrence, President of Oliver's council, 252. Laws, a Scotchman, duel fought by, 556. Lawyers, &c., required to renounce James IL,55o. Lazzari (called Bramanti), pa- laces built by, 1^6, 140; church built by, 180. Lea, Islr. Boliun's house, &c., at, 436, 448. League and covenant abjured, 287. Leake, Dr., his daughter, 390. Leather- head, picture at the Swan Inn, 327. Le Chat, Mons., physician, 192. Lechmere, Mr. Baron, and Greenwich Hospital, 568. Lee, Sir Henry, 299 ; Sir Thomas, 423. Leech, Mr. and Airs., 226, 258. Leeds, Duke of, 562 ; commissioner of Greenwich Hospital, 561 ; subscription to it, 567. Leeds Castle, Kent, prisoners kept at, *7o> 3131 325, 331. Leeward Islands, Sir C. Wheeler's indiscreet government, 360, 362. Le Febure, Mons., chemist, 195, Legg, George, master of the ordnance, 441. Legg, Mr. W., of the Bedchamber, 332. Legg, Col., 487, Leghorn, account of, 78. Leicester, city of, 235. Leicester, Earl of (the great), 439 ; vase once be- longing to, 241. Leicester, Earl of, house at Penshurst, 223. Leighton, Sir Elias, project of, 337, Leith Hill, Surrey, 17. I^ly, Sir Peter, 258, 339, 441. Le Neve, painter, 198. Lennier, Jerome, paintings possessed by, 223. Lent (1665), observance of, and recommended, cl jsing the theatres, 127. Leonaenus, Athelsteinus, anato- mical preparations by, 174. Leopold, Prince, collection of paintings, 223. Leslie, Lady Jane (afterwards Countess of Rothes), 583. L'Estranye, Sir Roger, 246, 377 ; his Observatory, 475. Lewen, Samuel, and Sir William, 475. Leyden, 30, 31. Leyden, Lucas Van, painting by, 52 ; prints, 70. Liancourt, Count de, palace, garden, and pictures, 51, 52. 'Liberty and Servitude,' a tm slation, 197. Ligne, Prince de, Ambassa;l )r from Spain, 267. Ligon, Capt., 337, Lilly, astrologer, 574. Lima, earthquake at, 516. Linch, Sir Thomas, Governor of Jamaica, 353, 370, 389. Lincoln, and Cathedral, 238. Lincolnshire Fens, 259. Lincoln's Inn, revels at (1661), 281. Lincoln's-inn-fields, theatre in, 270 ; Mr, Povey's house, 297. Lindsay, Earl of, 203. Lindsay, Lord, 19. Lionbcrg, Mons., Swedish resident, 437. Lisle, Sir G., put to death by Ireton, 220, 248. Lisle, Lord (son of E. of Leicester), his house at Sheen, 402. Litchfield, Lady, daughter of Charles II., 432. Littler, Mr., vicar of Deptford, 260. Littleton, Sir Charles, and his house at Sheen, 514. Lloyd, Sir Richard, 200, 218. Lloyd, Dr., afterwards Bp. of St. Asaph, attended the English Court in France, 216 ; sermons of, 389, 413 ; Bp. of St. Asaph, 334, 408, 416, 418, 422, 427, 480, 493, 525, 532, 539, 541 ; petitioned against reading Declaration ot Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to t'ue Tower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 517 ', his interpretation of prophecies, 5^3, 540, 541 ; .sermon on the deliverance of the Church of England, 536; the clergy ejected, 571. Lloyd, Mr., 370. Locke, John, secretary to council of trade an'i plantations, 370, 377. Lockhart, Lord, ambassador to France, 377. Locks on river Brenta in Italy, 165. Loftus, Mr., 416. Loggan, 300. Lombardius, Tulllus, sculptor, i65. Lombart, engraver, 226. London, pestilence (1625 and 1636), 18, 20; procession of Charles I. through, on open- ing the Parliament, 22 ; tumults, 22, 23 ; processions on opening the Long Parlia- ment, 23; on proclamation of peace (1642), 38 ; cross at Cheap destroyed, 39 ; pulpits of the churches filled by mechanics, 249 ; Lord Mayor's Show (1661), 279 ; (1662), 2S9 ; (1664), 301 ; (1686), 504 ; draught of an Act, against the nuisance of smoke in, 282 ; fast on Jan. 15 (1662), ib. ; commission for regulating buildings, 284, 2S6 ; present cf the City to the Queen of Charles II., 284 ; plague (1665), 308, 309 ; fast on account of; 308 ; dreadful increase of, 309, 310, 312 ; abates, 311, 313; mayor congratulates Charles 11. after the plague, ib. ; the g.'-ea fire in (1666), 317—321 ; alarm in, of the Dutch having landed, 321 ; survey of the ruins, and plans for rebuilding the city by Dr. Wren and Mr. Evelyn, 302 ; fast ou occasion of the conflagration, the plague, and war, 302 ; alarm on the Dutch enter- ing the 'J'hames, 327, 328 ; rebuilding of the city begun, 343 ; the Pope burnt in effigv (1673), 377 ; petition of the Corpora- tion to his Majesty on the quo warranto against tlieir charter, and submission to his i)leasure, 427 ; their privileges dimin- ished, z'b.; and judgment entered against them, 449; inscription on the Monunn.iU against the Papists erased, 479 ; rejoicings, &c., on James II. 's birthday, forbid, 503 ; rejoicings on the accession of William and Mary, 529 ; charter of the city restored, London frigate blown up, 304, 306, 625 ; a new frigate so called, launched, 314. Lon- don Institution, house of, in Old Jewry, 370; mansion erected for, in Moorfields, id.; London, Mr., gardener to Sir Chr. Wren, 571. London, William, letter to, on Barbadoes, 186. Londonderry surprised by James II., 534 ; Schomberg sent to its relief, 535, 536. Longford, Lord, 400, 40S Longueville, Duke of, 353. Lothian, Lord, 248, 267. Lottery in (1693), 554 ; state lot- tery (i694\ 556, 558 ; frequency of lotteries, (1696), 566; suppression of (1699), 57^ IND£X. Loudune, nuns ot, impostures practised by, 348. ' Love and Honor,' a tragi-comedy, 280. ' Love in a Tub,' a play, 469. Love, Captain, duel fought by, 480. Louis XIL, equestrian statue of, at Blois, 62. Louis XI I L, his sepulchre, 41. Louis XIV. per- forms in a masque, 210 ; procession to Par- liament, when out of his minority, 213, 214; his ambitious career, 446, 457, 501, 551. Louvre, at Paris, described, 47. Lower, Dr., physician,. 558. Lowman, Mr., of the Marshalsea, 310 Lowndes, Mr., secretary to the Treasury, 561 ,568. Lowther, Sir J., ■^93, 433 ; subscription to Greenwich Hos- pital, 567. Loyola, Ignatius, his burial- | place, 123. Lubicer, his great skill on the violin, 246. Lucas, Sir C, put to death by Ireton, 220. 248. Lucas, Lord, 537, 543. Lucas, Rev. ^ir., 560. Lucca, city of, 150. Lucretia, Signora, a Greek lady, 200. Lucretius, lirst book translated into verse, by Evelyn, 247 ; his own remarks upon it, 247. Lu- crme, lake of, 12S. Ludovisio, Prince, his villa at Rome. 92, 93. Lumley, Lord, 311, 479, 509. Lumley, family of, 258. J^ut- terell, Mr., painting by, 558. Luxembourg, palace and gardens, 56, 57, 58. Luxem- bourg, surrender of, to French, 457, 569. Lyons, citj' of, account of, 68, 69, T94. Lyra, Don Emmanuel de, 399. Lytcott, Air., 496. Macclesfield, Lord, his death, 555. Mack- worth, Sir Humphrey, 468. AIacki;nzie, Sir George, his Essay on Solitude answered by Mr. Evelyn. 326, 539 ; Lord Advocate of Scotland, 52-,, 526 ; particulars respect- ing Scotland by, 539. Maddox, Mr., letter of Evelyn contammg hints for his travels, 599. Madrid, palace of French king, 51, 203. Maestricht, siege represented at Wmdsor, 380. Magdalen College and Chapel, Oxford, 5»3i, 300. Magniani, Mar- quis, of Bologna, 156. Maimbourg, Father, pretended letter of Duchess of York, pub- lished b}^, 435. Maison, President, his palace near Paris, 201. Maison Rouge, near Paris, 54. Makins, Mrs. Bathsua, school of, 200. Mailing, South, church consecrated, 18 ; impropriations, 196. Malphigi, Signior, presents a treatise to the Royal Society, 339. Malta, earth- quake at (1693), 552. Malvern Hills, view, 234. Manchester, Earl, Lord Chamber- lain, 270, 301. Mancini, Signior, of Rome, 136. Mander, Dr., master of Baliol College, 572, 580. Mann, Mr., recorder of Ipswich, 393. Manners, general depravity of, 537 ; so- ciety for reformation of, 575, 577. Manton, Dr., presbyterian, sermon of, 257. Manu- scripts in the Bodleian library, 230. INIarble, magazine for, at Lambeth, 391. Marcello, Dr., of Verona, 178. ALirclinnd, Florian, the water-spouter, 209. ^L-lrdcn, Sir Ro- bert Clayton's scat at, 396. Marius, Caius, victory of, 140, 177, 178. Marlborough, town of, 228. Marlborough, Lord (afterwards Duke), dis- missed from office for extortion, 547 ; de- 1 serted James II. who had advanced him, ib. ; master of ordnance, 580 ; his honours and emoluments, and reflections on his character, 585 ; marriage of his daughter^, 571, 585 ; death of his son, 585 ; instance of his attention to Mr. Evelyn, 590. Marl - borough, Sarah, Duchess of, 283, 380,381, 548,588. MarmoraOxon. Arundeliana, 331. See Arundel, Evelyn, Howard. Mar- moustier, abbey of, 64. Marne, famou.s bridge over, 52. Marriages, burials, &c.. tax on, 561. Marseilles, account of, 7(.., 71 ; Galley-slaves, 579. Marshall, 200. Marshall, Mr., book of flowers made by, I 436. Marsham, Sir John, 296 ; his ' Chro- nicus Canon,' ^tc, 262. Martegna, Aii. drea, paintings by, 248. Martin, Mr. 583. Mary, Qu. of Scots, her burial-place, 239. Mary, Queen (consort of William ill.), 390; married to the Prince of Orange, 397 ; her conduct on her accession to the crown, 529 ; her cabinets and col- lection of china, 553 ; her death and fune- ral, 559 ; behaviour in her sickness, par- ticulars of her character, /Z-., 560. Mason, Dr., his house, 223. Masques at Charles II. 's court, 303, 327. Massy, Sir Edward, Governor of Jamaica, 268. Mas- tiflf dogs draw pedlars' carts in Holland, 37. Maithaei Horti, at Rome, 135. Mau- rice, Prince, 25. Maxwell, Mr., 401. May, Hugh, architect, works of, 298, 317, 353, 369, 415, 437. May 29, festival on, 276. Maymird, Mr., serjeant, 423. May- nard. Lord, comptroller of household. 468. Mazarine, Cardinal, 209, 228, 271 ; alluded to, 271. Mazarine, Duchess of, mistress of Charles II., 391, 467; her death, and account of her, 573. INIazzotti, excellent in Pietra Comessa, 153. Meadows, Sir Win., morriage of his son, 568. Aieath, Bishop of, 1656, poverty of, 247. Aiedals, writers and others skilled in the subject, 387, 692. Mede, i\lr., interpretation of prophecy, 534, 540. Medici, palace of, at Rome, 86. Aledici, Cosmo di, Duke, statue of Justice erected by, 79, 229; equestrian statue of, 81. Medici, Cosmo II., improved the Palace of Pitti, 79 ; statue of, 229. Medici, Cardinal, ambassador from the Duke of Florence to Rome, 144 ; fireworks at his palace, 145. Medicis, ]\Iaria de. Queen Mother (1641), 31. Meeres, Sir Thoma-, 316, 407. Meggot, Dr., Dean of Win- chester, 316, 456, 485, 501 ; the sermons of, 506. Melford, Lord, pictures belonging to, sold, 553. Mell, Mr., musician, 223, 246. Melos, Don Francisco de, 328, 370. Mercator, Nicholas, mathematical instru- ments by, 317. Mercers' Chapel (London), 320 : Italian sermon at, 197. Merceria, at Venice, i6o. Mercure, Mons., performe- on the lute, 195. iSIercury, a ring said to be a projection of, p5. Meret, Dr., of the College of Physicians, 288. Merrick, Mr., of Parson's Green, 217. Merick, Sii" William, 294. Merwell, Dr., 20. Mertou College, election to the Wardenship, 271. Messeroy, Mons., of Jersey, 266. Met«l- 6o6 INDEX. lus, sepulchre of, at Rome, 135. Meteor, one which appeared (1680), 426. Mewes, Dr., of St. John's College, Oxford, 343. Michell, Robert, estate at North Stoake, 273. Mickleham, notice of, 244. Middle- ton, Lord, 329 ; Secretary of State, 459, 509. Middlcton, Col., 355, 357. Middle- ten, Sir Hugh, New River of, 501. Mid- dleton, Mrs., dau. of Sir R. Needham, 447. Middluton, Dr., Italian .sermon by, 197. Milan, description of, 180—183 ; cathedral, 180 ; church of St. CeLso, 181 ; the Great Hospital, id. ; Temple of Hercules, A ; monastery of Madona della Gratia, and Eicture of Leonardo da Vinci, z7a ; Am- rosian Library, id. ; church of St. Am- brose, 182; citadel, id. ; Signior Septalla's curiosities, 183 ; civilities of a Scots colo- nel, and melancholy accident which befell him, t/>., 184. Millenium, delusion respect- ing, 556. Miller, Rev. Mr., vicar of Effing- ham, 551. Millington, Sir Thomas, 440. Milton, Christopher, brother of John, 501. Mingrelia, women of, 419. Minn, Mr., of VVoodcote, 196. Mint, Committee for re- gulating, 294, 295, 314. Mirandola, Picus, 343, 408. Misenus, ruins of the city of, 131. Mochi, Era., statue by, 102. Mo- dena. Duchess of, 377. Modiford, Sir Thomas, Governor of Jamaica, 355, 356, 357» 380. Mohun, Lord, tried and ac- quitted, 551. Molino, Signior, Doge of Venice, 173. Molino, Conde de, Spanish Ambassador, 307. Mollen, famous for making lutes, 156. Monconys, Mons., 348. Money, scarcity of, in England in (1696), 568. Monk, George, afterwards Duke of Albemarle, his march from Scotland, 263 ; broke down the gates of the city, id. ; marches to Whitehall, and convenes the old Parliament, id. ; letter of Mr. Evelyn to, 130. ]\Ionk, Dr., Bishop of Hereford, the funeral of, 280. Monmouth, Duke of, 201, 348, 371, 380, 411, 429, 465, 480 ; his unexpected return from Holland, and great popularity, 413 ; pro- clamation against, 444 ; surrenders, 451 ; pardoned, and banished from Whitehall, 152 ; sets up his standard as King, 478 ; proclaimed traitor, 479 ; defeated and Viken prisoner, id. ; committed to the Tower and executed, 481 ; acknowledged Vis base extraction, id. ; character of him, ^2 ; account of his mother, 201, 482, and note. Monmouth, Duchess of, 371, 390, 430, 481 ; sermons by her chaplain, 537. Monmouth, Earl of, 561. Monstreuil, brief description of, 41. Montague, Lord Vis- count, 262, 309 ; Montague, Lord, trial (1693 — 1696), concerning estate left by Duke of Albemarle, 555, 566, 582 ; sub- scription to Greenwich Hospital, 567. Montalbano, Dr., discoverer of Phos- phorus, 156. Monte Feltre, Count and Countess, 448. Montford the player, mur- der of, 551. Montfort, Lord, 347. Mont- fomeryshire, fiery exhalation in, 555. lont I^ouis, dwellings of inhabitants, 63. Montrose, Manjuis of, 212. Monument (London), building of, 427 : words on against the Papists erased, 479. Moure, Bishop of Ely, his fine library, 573. Mordaunt, Mr., acquitted (1658), 257. Mor- daunt. Lord Viscount, 251, 263, 270, 27X, 273, 280, 292 ; case between him and Capt. Taylor investigated by the House of Com- mons, 325 ; Mr. Evelyn a trustee for, 372 Mordaunt, Lady, her charity, 325, 372, 388, 389, 401 ; Mr. Evelyn a trustee for, and executor, 408, 413, 416. Mordaunt, Lady Mary, 380, 372, 7iote. Mordaunt, Lady, house at Ashsted, 310, 511. More, Sir Thomas, 695. Morgan, Mr., botanist, 258. Morgan, Col., exploits at Panama, 356, 357) .380. Morghen, Raphael, fine en- graving by, 181. Morice, Mr., Secretary, 278, 308, 326 ; library, 294, 327. INIorice, Mons., professor at Geneva; 193, 270. Mo- rine, Mons., his garden and collection of insects, 59, 210. Morison, Dr., professor of botany, 384. Morland, Sir Samuel, his inventions, 331, 395, 442 ; his father, 331 ; house at Lambeth, 429 ; inventions to assist his blindness, 562. Morley, Agnes, school founded by, 19. Mor- ley. Dr. Geo. (afterwards Bp. of Win- chester), 202, 29S, 314, 388; coronation sermon by, 274 ; letter of Mr. Evelyn to, on the charge against him respecting the Duchess of York's deserting the Churcli of England, 435. Morley, Col., one of the Council of State (1652), 220, 242; Mr. Evelyn attempts to bring him over to the King, 262 ; the colonel hesitates, and lo.scs the honour of restoring the King, 262, 263 ; procures pardon, id. ; Evelyn's nego- tiations with respecting the King's restora- tion, 416 ; reflections, 430. Morocco, am- bassador, audience of (1682), 430 ; enter- tainment given to, 432 : account of him and his retinue, ; admitted of the Royal Society, 435. Morosini, ambassador from Venice to France, 213. Morris, Mr., scrivener, 397. Morton, Countess of, 202, 208. Morus, Mons., an eloquent preacher, 282. IMoscow burnt (1699), 574. Moulins, account of, 67. Moulins, M., surgeon, 199. Mountague, Duke of, his palace at Bloomsbury (now the British I^Iuseum), 389, 413 ; description of it, 451 ; burnt to the ground, 496. Mountague, Mr., at- torney, his son married to Mary Evelyn, of Woodcot, 346; her death, 513, Mounte- bank, at Rome, trick of, 147. Mowbray, Lord (son of Earl of Arundel), 171. Muccinigo, Sign., Venetian ambassador 343> 350 ; entertained by Mr. Evelyn, 337 ; his entry into London, id. Mulberry garden, 228; Mulgrave, Lord, 370, 411J 553> 554' Mundus Muliebris, a poem by Evelyn, 471. IMuran, near Venice, ac- count of, 171. Murillo, painting by, 45. Muro torto at Rome, 139. Murray, Sir Robert, one of the founders of the Royal Society, 271, 275, 287, 295, 297, 303, 346, 373> 715- Muschamp, I\Ir., 226. Mus- grave. Sir Philip, 202. Musical i;islru- ment, a new invention, 297. Muscovy ambassador, audience of (1662), 290. Mus- covy, Czar of, his conduct to the English INDEX. 607 ambassador (Earl of Carlisle), 291 note, Musiapha, a tragedy, by the Earl of Orrery, 305, 324. Mutiano, Girolamo, a p.iinting " 305, 3: by, 92, NaKcd Truth,' pamphlet so called, 388. Nantes, Edict of, revocation of, and conse- quent persecution, 492. Nanteuil, 206. Naples, inscription over the gate of the king- dom, I-.12 ; account of the city and its envi- rons, 123 — 132 ; Castle of St. Elmo, 123,138; the ]\Iole, ib. ; Cathedral and churclios, 124 ; Monastery and church of the Cartliusians, ib.\ Viceroy's Cavalerizzo, 125; Impcrati's Museum, ib. ; Carnival, ib. ; Vesuvius, ib. ; Pausilippc, 127; Lago di Agnano, Grotto del Cane, 128 ; Court of Vulcan, ib. ; Pu- teoli, 129 ; Lake Avernus and Cave, Cuma ; 130 ; Baia;, ib. ; Misenus, 131 ; Elysian Fields, ib. \ general observations on the City and the manners of the people, 132, 133. Nassau, Prince William of, and his son Grave Maurice, monuments, 27, 276. Nauda;us, Gaspar, on Libraries, translated by Evelyn, 280. * Navigation and Com- merce, their Original and Progress,' by Mr. Evelyn (part of his History of the Dutch war), 379. Neale, Mr., Lotteries set up by, 554, 558 ; built Seven Dials, 558, 559 (i>id note. Neapolitano, Carlo, painter, 89. Noedham, Dr. Jasper, 249, 411. Needham, Sir Robert, and Ladj', 253, 258, 294, 447. Needlework, landscape of, 269. Negroes, James II. resolved to have them chris- tened, 485. Negros, Hieronymo del, pa- lace at Genoa, 73,74. Neil, Sir Paul, 275. Neptune, launch of ship, 441. Nero, ves- tiges of, 30, 131, 133, 139. Nevers, notice of, 194. Newburgh, Lord, 461. New- castle, Marquis of, seat at Welbeck, 236. Newcastle, Duke and Duchess of, at Clerkenwell, 327, 328 ; dress of the Duchess, 327, 328 ; vi.sits the Royal So- cietj', 328 ; the Duke's book on Horseman- ship, 327 ; marriage of his daughter, 559. New Hall (the great Duke of Bucking- ham's), 249. Newmarket, Charles IL's house at, 347 ; stables and heath, ib. ; court at, and races (1671), 357 ; revelling at, 360 ; collection for rebuilding Newmarket after fire, 449. Newport, Andrew, 413. Newport, Earl of, 272, 478, 485 ; his pictures, 462 ; trea- surer of the household (1685), 468 ; (1689), 530. Newport, Viscountess, 407. * News from Brus.sels unmasked,' by Evelyn, 263. Newstead Abbey, notice of, 236. Newton, Sir Adam, monument of, 320. Newton, Sir Henry, allusions to, 220, 226, 244, 249, 297. Nice, in Savoy, biitf notice of, 72. Nicholai, of Rome, singer, 148. Nicholao, exxellence of, on the violin, 380, 412. Nicho- las, Sir Edward, Secretary of State, 277, 378 ; West Horsley purchased by, 309. Nicholas, Mr. John, son of Secretary Ni- cholas, allusion to, 60, 67. Nicholas, Frier, of J'aris, chemist, 209. Nichols, Col., 355. Nichcl'^on, Dr. William, Bishop of Glou- cester, 280. Nicholson, Dr., Bishop of Carlisle, 584 Nieuport, jput -\v ambassador, 253, 259, 261 ; brief notices of, 248 ; his account of the Dutch East India Company, 250 ; policy of his nation, 262. Nineveh, remains, &c., of, 377> 419- Niobe and her family, statues of, 92. Nonsuch House, Surrey, account of, 310, 3"- Norden, John, accuracy of his map, 438. Norfolk, Thomas, fifth Duke of, restored, 280 ; his death, 398. Norfolk, Henry, sixth Duke of, 350, 401, 511 ; copy of ' Marmora Oxon.' presented to, by the University, 389 ; married to his concubine, Mrs. Bickerton, 398, 399 ; his house and pictures at Wey bridge, 401, 402, 572 ; presents the Arundelian library to the Koyal Society, ib., 403 ; collection of pictures, 441 ; his .skill in horsemanship, 461. Norfolk, Henrj', seventh Duke of. 570 ; bill for his divorce thrown out, 548, 551 ; his kindness to the Evelyn family, 555 ; succeeds in obtaining his divorce, 577, 578. Norfolk, the Duchess of (Mrs. Bickerton), 399, 401. Normanby, Aiarquis of, conversations with, respecting death of Charles IL, 558, 559. North, Lord, 389, 438. North, Sir Erancis, 365, 484 ; Lord Chief Justice, 409 ; Lord Keeper, 428 ; character, ib., 454. North, Sir Dudley, and his brother Roger, 484. North, Dr. (son of Lord), sermon of, 389, 391. Northampton, Earl of, 260, 268 ; Earl and Countess, 519 ; his seat, North- ampton, town of, 385, 519. North-west Passage, attempt to discover, 390. North- umberland, Henr>- Percy, eighth Earl of, suicide of, 445. Northumberland, Algernon, tenth Earl of, his pictures at Sutfolk House, 258, 272 ; House at Sion, 308. Northumberland, Joceline, eleventh Earl of, his daughter's marriage, to Mr. Thynne, 429. Northumberland, Countess of (Lady Elizabeth Howard, wife of tenth Earl), 270, 429, 589. Northum- berland, Countess of (widow of eleventh Earl), 451. Northumberland, the Duke of (natural son of K. Charles IL), 391, 456, 459, 498- Norton, Col., 487. Norton, Lady, conduct of, to Charles L, 218, 226. Norwich, brief account of, 360. Norwich, Earl of, ambas- sador to France, 42 ; at the head of the rising in Kent (1648), 196 ; tried before the rebels, 198 ; house in Epping Forest, 343, 439. Norwood, Col., 371. Notre Dame, Cathedral of, Paris, 44. Nottingham, town of, 236. Nottingham, Earl of, 408, 524 ; refuses to sit in Council with Papists, 522 ; protests against the abdication of Jarnes IL, 528, 529; sells Kensington to King William, 537 ; quarrel with Admiral Russel, 551 ; resigns as Secretary of State, 38 ; fire at his hou.se at lUn lcigh, 589. Nova Fossa, monastery at, 120. November, fifth of, forbidden to be kept, 493. Oakham, tenure of Barons Ferrers at, 236. Oakwood Chapel, endowment and repair ol, 561, 582. Oates, Titus, conspiracy di* INDKX. covered by, 404 ; character of, 405 ; accuses the Queen, and several Popish Peers, 406 ; evidence against Sir G. Wakeman, 408 ; his conduct, ib., 409, 425; a '.»itness against Lord Stafford, 424 ; Lord Stafford's remarks on his evidence, ib. ; his knavery and impudence, 443 ; tried for perjury, 474, 476 ; his punishment, 475 ; v/rit of error in the judgment of, 533 ; acquitted of perjury, 534 ; his rcv-iling book against King James, 565. Obeliscus Pamphihus et ^gypti- acus, 247. Obehsk of Octavius Ca;sar, 100 ; of Con.^tanline, 143 ; in Circus Cara- calla, 135 ; brought from Egypt by Augus- tus, 139. Obligations & Tests dispensed •.viih (1687), 508. Obrian, Lord; 398 ; his widow, 378. Odart, Mr., Latin Secretary, 317. Oesters House, at Antwerp, 35. Offley, x.Ir., groom porter, 225, 258, 320. Oflley, Dr., rector of Al)inger, 320 ; sermon uf, 561 ; his gift to Oakwood Chapel, ib. ; Offley, family, 574. Ogilljy, John, publi- cation of, 273. Ogle, 'Thomas, of Pinch- beck, his daughter Anne, 368. Ogle, Lady, widow of Lord, 429, 431, 433. Ogle- thorpe, Mr., duel fought by, 585. Ogniati, Count, 347. Old Bailey, man pressed to death at the, 223. Oldenburg, Mr., secretary to Royal Society, 389; confined in the Tower, 331; letter of Evelyn to, 322. Oliva, Padre, (reneral of the Jesuits, 409. Oliver, Peter, miniatures of, 196, 244, 269, 276. Olivetani, Padri, Church of, 169. Olonne, Count d', 213. O'Neale, Mr., built Belsize House, 390. Onslow, Arthur, seat at West Clandon, 349. Onslow, Dcnzil, his house at Pur- ford, 428. Onslow, Sir Richard, 544, 568, 570. 57i> 581, 583) 5S9; duel with JNIr. Oglethorpe, 585. Onslow, Earl of, 252, 428. Onufrio, Cardinal, of Rome, 137. Opera at Venice (164-X 164. Orange, Henry I'rcdcrick, Prince of, 396. Orange, Prince of (1641), 24. Orange, William Prince of, 350, 397, 398 ; marries Princess Mary, 397 ; accusation of Depu- ties of Amsterdam, 455 ; forces sent by, to, Jaines IL (1685), 482. Orange, Princess of, sister of Charles IL, 270, 285. Oranges raised in England, 406, 411, 579. Orias, Prince, palace and garden of, 74. Orleans, account of, 60, 61. Orleans, Duke of (prisoner temp. Hen. V.), 223, 379. Or- leans, Duke of (1651), 213. Orleans, Gas- ton, Duke of, 504. Ormond, RLarquess, (afterwards Duke of), 204, 258, 275, 2S3, .284, 285, 297, 298, 301, 304, 336, 371, 383, 418 ; his estates restored, 266 ; remarks on natural history of Ireland, 280 ; chancellor of Oxford, and Doctor, 357 ; anecdote re- specting, 3S3 ; lays down his commission, 572 ; restored, 573. Ormond, Duchess of, J92. Orrery, Earl of, plays by, 392. Os- born, Sir Thomas (afterwards Ilarl of Danby, Marquess Carmarthen, and Duke of Leeds), 208, 398, 537, 538; lord trea- surer, 373; strictures on, 375; his ad- ministration, 431 ; his imprisonment, 453 ; released, 455, Osiris, remarkable '■»atue uf, 91. Ossory, Lord, 204, 212, 266, 389, 391, 397, 412, 414 ; adventure of, 204; attack on the Sm>Tna fleet, 362, 363, 410 ; brother of the Trinity House, 371 ; master, 382 ; goes to command forces m Holland, 400 ; deeply affected at being appointed to the expe- dition to Tangier, 417, 418 ; his sickness and death, ib.\ character, ib.., 419; Os- sory, Earl of (son of the great Earl), 436, 438 ; his mansion destoyed, 542. Ostend, notice of, 34. Ottoboni, elected Pope, 536. Oudart, Mons., 297. Oughtred, William, mathematician, 226, 244. Ovid, Metamor phoses of, in mezzo-relievo, 146. Ouseley, Sir Charles, 245. Outram, Dr., vicar of St. Margaret's, 413. Owen, Sir John, 200. Owen, Dr. Richard, a sequestered minis- ter, 199, 220. 223, 224, 226, 242, 258, 297 ; sermons of, 226, 227. Owen, Dr., the famous Independent, 229. Ox, remark- able one, 200. Oxford, Earl of, 291, 294 ; his mistress, 281, 324. Oxford, visit to, in (1654), 229, 232 ; the Act, 229 ; Bodleian Library, Anatomy School, .St. John's, 230; Christ Church, Magdalen, Physic-garden, 231 ; visit to, in (1664), 299, 300 ; the theatre. All Souls', Magdalen, 340, 341 ; Court and Parliament held at (1665) 272 ; gift to wounded sailors, 316 ; the Arundelian marbles procured for, by Evelyn, 3-7; Mr. Evelyn thanked by the Universit '. , 334 ; decree of convocation, and lettei of Dr. Walker, ib. ; thanks to Mr. Ilownrd, afterwards Duke of Norfolk, 335 ; Encasniie at (1669), on the completion of the theatre, 340, 34K ; terrje filius, ; the Act ; marbles, ib., 3(2 ; doctor's degree conferred on Duke of Ormond, Earl of Chesterfield, Mr. Speni "r, and Mr. Eve- lyn, ib. ; visit of Mr. Evelyn (1675), 384; Dr. Plot's curiosities, ib. ; Parliament at in (i63i), 350 ; the reception of William III. at, in (1695), 562. Packer, Mr., 288 ; his seat and chapel at Oroomsbridge, 223, 379. Paddy, Sir Wil- liam, 288. Padua, description of, 165, 166, 167, 169, 170, 172, T73, 176; inscription over a gate, 165 ; tomb at St. Lorenzo, 166; St. Antony's church, convent of St. Jus- tina, ib. ; Great Hall, 169 ; Monte Pieta, schools, ib. ; tiarden of simples, 170 ; noc- turnal disorders at, 172 ; anatomical lec- tures, hospitals, 174. Paget, Lord, am- bassador, 551. Paine, Capt., 318. Painters' Hall, 301. Painting, old Roman, de- scribed, 110. Painting, perfection of, by Mr. Evelyn, 337. Palais Cardinal, at Paris, 59 ; Royal Masque at, 210. Palais Royale, Paris, 46. Palais, Isle du, Paris, tb, Palazzo Vecchio, at Elorence, 79, 80, 81. I'alazzo della Cancellaria at Rome, 136. Palladio, Andrea, works of, 167, 168, 176, 17S. P.dma, Jacopo, the paintings by, 52, 198. Palmer, Sir James, 198. Palmer, Mr., ot Gray's Inn, the curious clocks, &c., in his possession, 277. Pamphili, John Baptista, elected Pope (Innocent X.), 84, 85. Pam- philio, Cardinal, 145. Pancirollus, account INDEX. 609 ofa Roman corpse, 43. Panegyric, poetical, on King Charles 1 1. 's coronation, by j\Ir. Evelyn, 275. Pantheon at Rome, 137. Paper, process of manufacturing, 401. Papillion, Mr., 24;. Papillon, Mr., 443. Papin, Mons., account of his Digesters, 434. Papists, conspiracy of (1696), banished ten miles from London, 564 ; law to dis- possess of estates after 18 years of age, (1700), 578. Paplewick, view from, 236. Paradise, an exhibition of animals, 377. Paris, description of (1643), 43 — 53, 56 — 59 ; (1649), 201 — 206 ; (1650), 2o3 — 217 ; Pont Neuf, 43 ; Cathedral of Notre Dame, 44 ; Jesuits' Church and College, 45 ; the Sor- bonne, 45, 46 ; the Exchange, Palais, St. Chapelle, ib. ; Isle du Palais, 47 ; Marais de Temple, St. Genevieve, Palais Royale, ib. ; Hotel de la Charite, ib., 204 ; Jardine Royale, Bois de Vincennes, 47 ; the I-ou- vre, ib. ; the Palace of the Thuilleries, ib. ; its gardens, 48, 49 ; Count de Liancourt's palace and pictures, 51, 52 ; Fontainebleau, 53> 54 ■> palace of Luxembourg, 56 ; gar- dens, 57 ; view from St. Jacques' steeple, 58 ; St. Innocent's Churchyard, 59 ; Mons. Morine's garden, ib., 210 ; Palais Cardinal, 59, 203 ; President Maison's palace, 201 ; audience of the English Ambassador (1649), 202, 203 ; St. Stephen's Church, ib. ; Madrid, 204 ; ordination of English Di- vines, 205 ; Samaritan or Pump at Pont Neuf, 206 ; Convent of Bonnes Hommes, 209 ; Frier Nicholas, ib. ; Torture at the Chatelet, 210 ; opera at the Palais Car- dinal, 211 ; ceremonies on Corpus Christi day, 212 ; Procession of Louis XIV., to Parliament, 213 ; audience of English am- bassador, King's gardens, 214; Mark An- tonio the enameller, 217 ; besieged in (1652), by Prince of Conde, 220 ; rejoicings on the reported death of William III., 541. Paris, Archbishop of, house at St. Cloes, 48. Parker, Bishop of Oxford, 501 ; his death, 513 ; character, ib. Parkhurst, Sir Robert, 428. Parkhurst, Dr., master of Balliol College, 20 Parliament, the opening and dissolution of (1640), 22 ; (1648), sat up the whole night to conclude the Isle of Wight treaty, but were surprised by the Rebel Army, 197 ; prorogation of, by Charles II. in person (1665), 304 ; Roman Catholic Lords ex- cluded (1678), 406 ; elections (i6S5\ influ- enced by the Court, 469, 475, 478 ; King James II.'s speech to Parliament on his accession, 477 ; o.-oceedings of (1685), 493 ; stedfastness of members in behalf of the Protestant faith ; prorogued, 507, 508 ; debate in House of Lords respecting Re- gency, 527 ; precipitate conduct of the Commons (1689), 530; prorogued and dis- solved (1690), ib. ; proceedin'»rs on dis- covery of conspiracy against William IIL ^1695), 564 ; Parliament (1705), 570. Parma, Duke of, his palace Caprarola, 149. Parmensis, Baptista, 52 ; drawings of, 178. I'arquiou, letters of, 241. Parr, Dr., of (.'amberwell, 429; funeral sermon on Dr. Breton, 188, 362: visit of Evelyn to, 49?. Parson's Greon, Lord Mortl lunt's house, 271, 416. Pasquin, remains of the status of, 137. Passignano, Domenico Cresti, painting by, 52. Passport, Spanish, 174. Paston, Sir Robert (Earl of Yarmouth), 246, 2,50, 307. Patriarchs, Eastern, subscrip- tions to our Confession, 2S9. Patrick Dr., Dean of Peterborough, 493 ; Bp. of Ely, 337. 343> 503. 543- Paul HI., Pope. 139, Paul v., Pope, chapel of, 95. Paul, Cheva- lier, 213. Paule, Mr., 203. Paullo, Tull., bust of, 169. Pausilippo, near Naples, 127. Peake, Sir John, lord-mayor (1687), 511. Pearson, Dr. John, Bishop of Chester, 371, 377, 380. Peat, or turf, use of, proposed, 330, Peckham, Sir Hem-y, feast at the Temple, 343. Peckham, Sir T. Bond's house at, 390, 428. Pemberton, Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, 409, 450. Pembroke, Earl of, seat near Aldermaston, 229, 230, 509 ; seat at Wilton, 233 ; fire at, 589 ; Lord Privy Seal, 565 ; subscription to Greenwich Hospital, 567. Pen, Sir Wm., impeached, 336 ; blasphemous book by his son, 399. Pen, Admiral, 242. Penitents, procession of, 143. Penshurst, brief notice of, 223. Pepys, Mr. Sam., Admiralty Secretary, 338, 380, 390, 406, 443, 506, 538, 541, 542, 544, 571 ; cut for the .stone, 3.40 ; Clerk of the Acts, 352 ; twice Master of the Trinity- house, 372, 482 ; committed to the Towci, 407 ; accused of being a Papist and of trea- chery, ib. ; possessed Deane's ' jVrt of Shipbuilding,' 432 ; accompanies the King to Portsmouth, 484 ; ini|;ostures of the Sa ludadors confessed to, 485 ; his account of his conversation with James II. respecting Charles II. being a Catholic, 488 ; portrait of Mr. Evelyn painted for, 534 ; his remon- strance again.st suspicions entertained of him, 540 ; sent to the Gate-house, ib. ; en. larged, 541 ; his house at Clapham, 580 , his death, account and character of him, 585 ; his library, 586. Percy, Lord, 421 ; Lady Elizabeth, 589. Perelle, engraver, 203. Perfuming rooms, whimsical method of, in Germany, 245, Pcrigueux, City of, ji. Perishot, Mons., collection of, 52. Perkins, Sir William, executed, 565. Perpetual motion, 337. Persepolis, ruins of, 419. Persian habi- adopted at Court (1666), 324, 325. Perut gino, Pietro, paintings by, 80, 116, 140- 150. Peruzzi, Baldassare (called Baldas- sare da Siena), 113. Peter the Great in Evelyn's house, 571. Peterborough, brief notice of, 239. P.-tv'rSorough, Earl of, 271, 280, 468, 548 ; sale of lands to pay debts (1676), 372 ; marriage of his daughter, ib. Peterborough, Lady, 257, 280 ; house at Ryegate, 243. Peterhouse, Cambridge, 240. Peters, incites the re'.).^ls to murder Charles I., 197; executed,. 268. Petit, Mons., of Rome, 86. Petit, Old, paintings of, 193. Petitot, John, enamel by, 2f(), Peto, Mr. Henry, builder, 357. Petra, glossa, found at Sheerness, 336. Petre, Lord, committed for Popish Plot, 407. Pt^ trified human body, 93. pett, Commissioncjr, 39 6io INDEX. his skill in shipbuiltling, 293 ; builder of the first frigate, 538. Petty, Sir William, 309, 389, 438 ; iniprove- ments of shipping, 2S0 ; ship with two keels, 295, 301, 382 ; character, 381—384, 438. Peyton, Sir Thomas, 206. Phidias and Praxiteles, horses of, 93. Phillips, Edward, preceptor of Evelj'n's son, 294, 304 ; preferred by his recommendation, 396. Phillips, Mrs., her tragedy of ' Ho- race,' 335, 339. Philosophers' Elixir, pro- jection of, 588. Phipps, Sir Wm., Go- vernor of New England, 551. Physicians, College of, 440. Piacentino, Giulio, paint- ing, 136. Pichini, Sign., his collection, 87. Pictures, auction at the Banqueting- house, 553. Pierce, paintings, 233. Pierce, Dr., President of Iklagdalen College, Ox- ford, 249 ; letter of Mr. Evelyn to, 293 ; sermon at Whitehall, 399 ; another, 406. Pierpoint, Mr. Evelyn, 510. Pierpoint, Mrs., married to Mr. Cheny, 537, 549. Pierrepoint, Hon. W., 200, 510, 571. Pierrepoint, Mr., his house at Notting- ham, 336. Pierson, Dr., his ' Biblia Polyglotta,' 224, 242, 276. Pietra Comessa (inlaid marble), 80,99, io3> 104. 118,146, 151,152, 167, 239, 269 ; artists in, at Florence, 153. Pietra Mala, a burning mountain, 154. Pietro, Sign., musicir,'ii), 422, 470, 472. Pine, Queen, from Ha/badoes, 277 ; King Pine, 337. Pintado, room hung with, 316. Piqudello (Piccadilly), paving - of, 2S6. Pisa, City of, 76, 77, 150. Pisano, Pietro, paintings by, 105. Piten, the Jesuit, 523. Plague in London (1665), ravages of, 308, 309, 310, 311. Plantations, Foreign, Council for, appointed (1671), 351, 353, 354 ; proceedings of, 352—354, 360 — 362, 365, 363, 369 ; constituted a Council of Trade, 370, 371, 378, 380. Plantin, shop of, 35. Plessis, Du, house of the French King, 64. Plessis, Mons. du, riding school of, 59. Pliny, death of, 126 ; statue of E. M. Pliny, 178. riot, Dr., his natural curiosities, 384 ; history of Staffordshire and Oxfordshire, 385 ; Se- cretary of Royal Society, 430. Plume, Mr., sermon of, 322. Plymouth, break- water at, 76. Plymouth, Earl of, 411. Poggio Imperiale, at Florence, 153. Poig- nant, Mons., of Paris, his collection, 211. Poland, incursion of the Swedes into, 245. Poland, King of, embassy to Ch;u-les II., 267 ; raises the siege of Vienna, 449. Po- lemberg, Cornelius, paintings of, 52. Pol- lajuolo, Antonio, sculpture by, 101. Pol- lard, Sir Hugh, 290, 325, 374. Poll Tax, 268, 534. Polylhore, a musical instrument, 277. Pordage, Mr., his excellent voice, 463, Pomfret, Mr., 206. Pont Neuf, the, at Paris, 43, 206. Pont St. Anne, Paris, 43. Pont St. Esprit, at Valence, 70. Pontano, painting by, 153. Pontaq, Mons., 445. Ponte. Francesco da (the elder Bassano), painiings bj', 52, »25, i33> 406, 565. Ponte Giocoino da (II Bassano), paintings by, 133, 163, >;53. Po.v.- tefract 236. Pontius Pilate, pal:"ice of, 69. Puntoise, in Normaixly, -4. Pontcrno, paintings of, 80. Pope, Walter, verses by, 381. Pope, palaces of, Mont Cavallo, 93, III ; Vatican, 105, 157 ; chapel in the*. Vatican, 158; armory of, 163; procession of the Pope to St. John de Lateran, 148 , on the Annunciation, 139 ; on Lady Day. 142. Popham, Colonel, house of, 229. Porcupine, description of one, 529. Por- denone, paintings of, 152. Porta, Baccio della (F'ra Bartolomeo di S. Marco), painting by, 15).. Porta, Giacomo de i , works of, 91, 212. Porter, Endymion, 200, Portland, Earl of, 360, 568. Portland, Dor- setshire, earthquake at, 563. Portman, Sii William, Duke of Monmouth taken by, 479. Portmore, David Colyer, Earl of, 401. Portsmouth, siege of, 38, 486, 487 ; James II. 's visit to, 526. Portsmouth, Duchesf of (Madame Querouaille), 350, 357, 35S, 384, 464, 467 ; apartments at Whitehall, 386 ; Morocco ambassador entertained at her apartments, 432 ; visited in her dress- ing-room by the King, 450 ; her apart- ments burnt, 54^. Portugal, King of (1683), 465. Portugal earthquake in {1699), 576. Portuguese ambassador, in London (1679), 407. Pott, Sir George, 261. Povey, Mr., 290, 335, 389 ; house in Lincoln's inn lields, 297 ; near Brentford, 317. Poule, Henry, manager against Viscount Stafford, 423,424. Poultney, Sir P. W., 340, 537. Poussin, Nicholas, 52, 148, 206, 424. Powell, Mr Justice, displaced, 517, 568. Powell, Capt., 165, 171, 247, Power, essays on balance of, 581. Pozzo, account of his collection, 107. Pra- toline, villa of Duke of Florence, 15^. Pratt, Mr., architect, 243, 317 ; built Lord Allington's at Horseheath, 346. Presby- terians of Scotland, character of, 530 ; Pressed to death, punishment, intlicled, 223, 263. Preston, Lord, 509 ; Secretary of State, 522 bis; tried and condemned, 543 ; released, 544 Preston Beckhclvyn, manor of, 196. Pretyman, Sir John, house at Dryfield, 233 ; Pret} man, Mr., uncle of Mrs. Evelyn, 196, 199. 229, 242, 501. Price, Sir Herbert, 120. Prideaux, Dr. Humphrey, 371 ; editor of his ' Marmora Oxoniensia,' 399. Primaticcio, Francesco, paintings by, 52, 53. Prince, of 90 gurs, 387. Prince frigate, loss of, 314, 315. Pr t- chard. Dr., sermon of, 3S9. Privy J-ea!, commission for executing the office of (1685), 491 ; proceedings of (1686-7), 49^i 49S, 499, 500, 502, 504, 506, Procession of the Pope to St. John de Late- ran, 108 ; of penitents at Rome on Good Friday, 143 ; of Lewis XIV, to I'arliameiit, 213; funeral of Ireton, 218 ; of Cromwell, 259 ; coronation of Charles II., id. ; aquatic procession in h.onour of Catherine, Queen of Charles II., 257. Prophecies, interpre- tations of, 533, 540. Protestant French Church at Charenton, 52. Prujean, Sir Francis, 277. Puckering, Sir Hen., hi« seat at Warwick, 196. Pulsone, Scipione (called Ciaetauo), paintings by, 106. I'un- INDEX. 61 1 tens, Jo., mountebank, 277. Purford, Mr. Denzil Onslow's hoii<;e at, 428. Purgatory, ' gates of, 129. Puteoli (Puzzolo), 129, 130, | 131. Putney, schools at, 200. Putti (.boys' heads), paintings of, 198, 201, 206. Pye, Sir Walter, 200 ; seat of, 232. Qoakers, the new sect of, 149. Queensberry, Duke of, 476. Quercei, Jacobo, sculpture, | 105. Querouaille, Mons., and lady, 384. I (Quinquina, brought into vogue, 558. Quin- tm Metsys, blacksmith, painting, 19S. Rabiniere, Admiral, his funeral, 3-37. Rad- clilfe, Sir George, 202. Raftaelle (Raffaele San;:io, di Urbino), paintings by, 52, 53, 54 ter, 80, 100, 113, 114, 133, 139, 152, 153, 156, 178, 180, 206, 223, 276, 284, 392, 420, 441, 565 ; architecture of, 153 ; his burial- place, 138. Rainbow, Dr., sermon by, 269. Raleigh, Mr. Carew, son of Sir Walter, 258. Raleigh, Sir Walter, 226 ; his cordial, 288. Rand, Dr., 20, 251. Ranelagh, Lady, 540, 547. Ratcliffe, Mr., 20S. Ratclifle, Sir George, 203. Rattle-snakes, Virginian, 253. Raven.sbourn Mills, Deptford, 336. Ray, Dr., on fishes, 498. Raynolds, Dr., sermon before East India Company, 254, Reading, Sir Robert, 401, 454. Reccii, Andrea, mezzo-relievo by, 166. Reeves, Dr., sermon by, 282. Reeves, famous for perspective, 220. Regency, debate respect- ing (KiSg), 527. Reggio, Sign. Pietro, musician, 458. ' Rehearsal,' play by Duke of Buckingham, 361. Rencia, Anna, singer, 164, 174. Reni, Guido, paintings by, 92, 107, 118, 140, 156, 223. Revels in the Middle Temple (1642), 38 ; (16G7), 334 ; Inner Temple (1697), 570; at Lincoln's Inn (1661), 281 ; at Court (1C61), ib. ; (1668), 335. Review in Hyde Park, (1663), 292. Revolution of (1688), distracted councils at, 527. Reymes, Col. Bullein, 301, 367. Reynaldo, Prince, 377. Rey- nolds, Bp., sermon by, 254. Rheno, Caval. Giuseppe, 96, 104. Rhinoceros, the first in England, 459. Rhodes, Siege of, an opera, 281. Rhodomante, Sign. Paulo, of Venice, 158. Rialto at Venice, 159. Rich, Mr., feast at Lincoln's Inn, 1304. Rich, the Rebel, 247. Richard, St., an English King, epitaph at Lucca, 150. Richard III., tKing, tomb of, 235. Richardson, Judge, 119. Ricliardson, the fire-eater, feats of, 370. R ichelieu, town of, 66. Richelieu, Cardinal, palace at Ruell, 49 ; at Richelieu, 66 ; Palais Cardinal, 203. Richett, Mr., en- graver, 225. Richmond, Duke of, funeral (1641), 24. Richmond, Duke of, ambassador to Denmark, death of, 386. Richmond, Duke of (1663), 292. Richmond, Duke of, natural son of Cnarles II., 432, 455, 459. Richmond, Countess of, mother of Henry VII , 239. Rilie, Sir Hugh, 203. Roan, 67, 68. Robinson, Alderman Sir John, 247, 292; pageant of, 289. Rochester, Earl of, a orophane wit, 350. Rochester, Laurence Hyde, Earl of, 463; commis- sioner of treasurv. 413 ; a favourite at Court, 437 ; nuiJc Euri, 438 ; his daughter married, ib. ; president of the Council, 459 ; lord treasurer, 463 ; opposition to William and Mary, 53P ; Lord Lieutenant of Ire- land, 580. Rochester, Countess of (1664) —(1686), 299, 501. Rogers, Dr., consul at Padua, 170. Rogers, Dr., account of, 437 ; Harveian oration of, ib. Roman Catholics, machinations of (16S6-7), 499, 506, 507. Roman medals found near Ban- stead, 259. Roman money, observations on, 147. Roman painting at Cardinal Bor- ghese's, 110. Roman temple at Leicester, 2 36 ; Romano, Giulio, paintings by, 52, 115. Romano, Paris, 95. Rome, description of, and events in (1644-5), 19 — 120, 133 — 217 ; Farneze Palace, 86, 118, 133 ; temples of Peace, Jupiter, Ro mulus, Faustina, 87, 88 ; arch of S. Severus, the Capitol, ib. ; Ara Ocli, 90 ; Barberini palace, 118; Jesuits' church, 123 ; Medici pal.ice and gardens, 91, 110 ; Chiesa Nova, Prince Ludovisio's villa, 124 ; Sign. Ange- loni's study, 125, 133 ; Monte Cavallo and the Pope's summer palace, 93, iii ; Dio- cletian's baths, Fontana della Therme, St. Susanna, and Maria della Vittoria, 93, 94 ; Mont Alto's villa, St. Agnes, and Con- stanza, ib. ; St. Maria Maggiore, 95 ; St. Pudentia, and Praxedels, 96 ; arch of Titus, 96 ; amphitheatre of Vespasian, arch of • Jonstantine, 97 ; Villa Borghesi, 98, 1 10 ; St. Peter's and obelisk dedicated to Julius Csesar, 99 — 104 ; crypt of St. Peter's, 113 ; baptistery of St. John, 104 ; Scala Sancta, and obelisk, 105 ; St. John de Lateran, 104, 105, 106 ; collection of Cavaliero Pozzo, 107 ; St. pietro in vinculi, ; procession of the Pope to St. John de Lateran, 108 ; firewo ks, 109 ; Jesuits' College; collection of H. Vittilesco, 110; Ghisi palace, 113, 133 ; St. Mary's, 113 ; ceremonies on Christ- mas Eve, 113 ; the Jew's Ghetto ; ceremony of circumcision, ib ; the Vatican, T14 — 117 ; St. Paul's, 117 ; Tre Fontana, 118 ; Christ's Hospital, 119; fountain called Acqua Paula, 119 ; St. Cecilia's, 133 ; Mons. Testaceus, tomb of Cestius, 134 ; St. Maria in Navi- cula, Horti Mathaei, Eg^-ptian obelisk, 135 ; St. Sebastian's, 136 ; academy of Humorists, 135 ; English Jesuits, hospital of Pellerini della S. Trinita, ib ; palace of Cardinal Spada, palace della Cancellaria, 136 ; Piazza Navona, St. Giacomo di Spa- gnoli, ; Pasquin, church of the Capu- chins, column of Antoninus, 137 ; Pantheon or S. Maria della Rotonda, ib. : monastery of Trinita del Monte, 138 ; St. Augustine's, and obelisk, 139 ; Muro torto, Mausoleum Augusti, ib. ; Sapienza, St. Andrea della valle, ib. \ St. Maria sopra la Minerva, ib. ; "Trajan's column, St. Cross of Jerusalem, 140; St. Lawrence, 141; Carnival, ib.\ Greek church, garden of Justinian, 142 ; ceremonies on Lady Day, Pope's portion to the Zitelle, ib. ; ceremonies on Holy Thursday, Good Friday, and Easter Day, 143 ; Roma subtcrranea, ib. ; opera by Prince Galicano ; tournament, 144 ; ambas sador from Lucca ; benediction of th« ) 6l2 INDEX. F', pe, 145 ; Frescati, formerly Tuscula- num, ib. ; Card. Scipio Borghese's house on Mondragone, 146 ; Palace d'Este at I'ivoH, ib. ; models of Rome when in its beauty, 147 ; cascade of the Anio, ib. ; mountebank in the Piazza Navona, 147 ; observations on Roman coins and medals, ceremonies of Greek Church, celebrated artists, 148 ; exe- cutions, ib. ; extent, &c., of Rome, ib. ; earthquake at (1703), 585. Romney, Lord, offices held by, 563, 581. Ronquillos, Don Pictro, visit of Mr. Evelj^n to, 427. Rooke, Admiral Sir Geo., squa- dron of, 564, 565 ; Spanish galleon taken 5S5. Ross, tutor to Duke of Mon- mouth, 48. Rosse, Lord, divorce of, 344. Rosse, Alexander, divine and poet, 186, 200. Rotenhamer, painting by, 198. Ro- therham, Serjeant, a trustee for Pioyle's lectures, 548,' 565. Rotherhithe, dreadful fire at (1659), 573. Rotiere, Mens., his excellence in graving, 400. Rotterdam, the fair at (1641), 27. Rouen, cathedral, chapel d'Amboise, St. Owen's, 58. Rouen Abp. of, palace, Gaillon, 54. Roupel, Mons., of Paris, 226. Royal Exchange, London,built, 377 ; Royal Society, shew Charles 1 1., an eclipse of Saturn, 275 ; incorporateo, 277, 286, 287; mace and arms, ib., 288, 289; address the King, 287 ; first anniversary, 295 ; met at Arundel House after the fire (1666), 326, 377 ; Arundel Library presented by Mr. Howard at Mr. Evelyn's suggestion, 326, 339, 403; Evelyn presents tables of Veins, Arteries, and Nerves, 335, 583 ; College for, designed at Arundel House, 336 ; Chelsea College given to, by Charles IL, 340 ; Evelyn chosen secretary, 370 ; meet at Gresham College, 377 ; regulations re- specting electing Fellows, 431 ; transactions ofj 277, 280, 289, 296, 297, 301, 313, 328, 336, 339, 343, 382, 423, 434, 436, 437, 438, 498, 573. Rubens, Sir Peter Paul, paint- ings by. 35, 553. Ruell, Richelieu's palace at, 49. Rugini, Sign, of Venice, his collec- tion, 171. Rump parliament, dispersed by the Army, 262 ; dissolved by Monk, 263. Rupert, Prince, 287, 293, 307, 314, 315, 324, 329, 349, 401 ; explains the mezzotinto en- graving, 271, 272 ; arranges the fire-arms at Windsor Castle, 349. Russel, Lord William, apprehended, 443 ; tried and condemned, 445, 446 ; beheaded, 445, 447, 451, 481- Russel, Col. (uncle of Lord), 447. Russel, Wm., embalming practised by, 434. Russel, Adm., quarrel, with Lord Nottingham, 552 ; put aside, ib. ; restored, 554. Russel, Catholic Bishop of Cape Verdi, 280. Russian Ambassador, entrance of (1662), 290 ; takes leave, 292 ; curious present by, to Charles IL, 304; audience of (1667), 332 ; (i68i), 430. Rus- tate, Tobias, benefactions of, 417. Ruvignd, Marquis, 502, 509, 536. Rycaut, Sir Paul, ^93. Ryegate, Lady Peterborough's house Bt, 243. Rye-house Plot detected, 443 ; declaration concerning, 447 ; hanksgiving, Eacheverell, on Lord Staflord's trfal, 423. Saffron Walden, famous lor saffron, 347, 441. Sailor, fortitude of, under amputa- tion, 364. St. Albans, Earl of, 266, 274, 287, 292, 312 , 448. St. Albans, Duke of (son of Charles II. ), 456, 459. St. Chapelle, Paris, 46 ; at Bourges, 67. St. Clement's Church, London, 460; St. Clere, Mons., of Paris, collcciioiis of, 206. St. Cloes, house of Archbishop of Paris, 49, St. Cross at Rome described, 140. St. Denys, Paris, 42. ^St. George's, Hanover Square, 545. St. Germain, Naples, natural stoves of, 139. St. Germain, Mons., 214. St. Germain's en Laye, 49, 50, 51. St. James's Church, Piccadilly, 461. St. James's, library at, 563. St. James's Park, collection of rare beasts and fowls in, 304, 614 ; Hbrary in, 126. St. John's College, Oxford, 230. St. John's College, Cambridge, 239. St. John de Lateran, church of, at Rome, 104, 105, 106. St. John, Lord, 340. St. John, Sir Walter, 299. St. John, son of Sir Walter, murder by, 462. St. John, Regicide, 239. St. Justina, church of, at Padua, 167. St. Leger, Lady, antipathy to roses, 345. St. Alaria Maggiore, at Rome, 95. St. Maria sopra la Minerva, at Rome, 140. St. Mark, at Venice, Piazza, 160; Church, 161 ; Tower, 163. St. Michael, Island of, near Venice, 171. St. Michael in Hosco, at Bologna, 156. St. Paul's (Old) Cathe- dral, survej ed for repairs, 317 ; destruc- tion of, by the great fire of London, 318, 319, 320. St. Paul's Cathedral, choir finished, 558 ; opened for public service, 570. St. Paul's, church of, near Rome, 117. St. Peter's at Rome, piazza, before, 99; description of, loi ; crypt, 113; ser- vice at, on Good Friday and Easter Day. 143. St. Pietro in vinculi, at Rome, 147 148. St. Ruth, General, slain, 546. St. Sebastian's at Rome, 135. St. Stephen's. Paris, 203. St. Susanna, church at Rome, 79. St. Thomas's Hospital (i664\ 301. St. Vincent Rock, Bristol, 229. Saladine, Mons., 191. Salisbury Cathedral, 233 ; Plain and city, ib. ; Stonehenge, ib. Sallust, viridarium and gardens, 92, 94. Saltpetre, Commission for regulating, 315, 316. Salt water, rivulet of, at Pistoia, 150. Salvatico, Dr., of Padua, 172, 175. Salu- dadors of Spain, impostures of, 485. Sal- viati, Francesco Rossi, called Salviati, works of, 87, 136. .■^arn'i'-!, Mr., architect, 3 Sancroft, Dr , ALp. of Canterbury, 31 493. 500, 5oi> 502, 511, 534, 558 ; sent for by King James, 522 ; required to publish a declaration, 523 ; meeting of Bishops at Lambeth, 525, 526 ; thanks Evelyn, 525 ; protests against the crown being given to VVilliam III., 530; refuses to attend Par- liament, (1689,) 531, conversation with, 532, 533 ; suspended, 536; deprived, 543, 544; advice to Dr. I^everidge, 543. Sanctuary of St. MaVtin's church, 508, Sanders, Captain, 561. Sanderson, Sir Wm., funeral of, 390. Sanderson, Dr., sermon of, 262. Sands, travelling, ac- count of, 396. Sandwich, Earl of, 308, 309, ,^^6; East India prizes, and courage. jlc, 314, 336 ; observations at Madrid, 337 ; President of Commission of Trade, 3S4i 355 ; death at battle of Solebay, 366 ; character of, 367 ; funeral, 368 ; Sandys, Rev. Mr., 576. Sansovino, Jacobo, sculpture by, 137, 139, 142, 166 ; Piazza of St. Mark, by, 160 ; his burial-place, 160. Santa Clara, Vra. de, 485. Sapienza at Rome, 139. Saracin, Mons., goldsmith of Paris, 49. Sarto, Del (Andrea Vaiiiiucchi), paintings by, 54, 80, 151, 152, 153, 258 ; burial-place, 151. Saturn, eclipse of (1660), 275. Saville, Sir George (Marquis of Halifax), 288. Saville, vice-chamberlain, 344, 46S. Saville (Countess of Monte Feltre), 448. Saumeurs, Mons., 202. Savoy, persecuted Christians of, collections for, 242, 537. Savoy, Duke of, his persecution of Protest- ants, 500, 537, 540. Savoy hospital, sick and wounded lodged at, 306, 317. Saxe Gottorp, Duke of, 503. Sayes Court, Sir R. Browne's house at, afterwards Evelyn's, 197, 225, 270, 271, 284, 292, 361 ; garden at, a2S,4}i,454,7 32; a mole for ships designed at, 245 ; let to Peter the Great. 571 ; let to Lord Carmarthen, 581. Scala Sancta, at Rome, 104, 105. Scaliger, Joseph, 441 ; his burial- place, 3o._ Scaliger, Julius Ca;.sar, statue of, 178 ; his eulogy of V^erona, id. Scaligeri, .Princes of Verona, monument of, 177. Scaramucchio, Italian, performance at Whitehall, 386. Scarborough,^ir Charles, 224, 344 ; library, 560. Scavven, Sir Wm., M.P. for Surrey, 589. Schomberg, Mar- shal, ^40 ; expedition to Ireland, 535. Schotti, scholar of Kircher, 123. Scipio Africanus, statue of, 66. Sclater, Edward, apostate curate of Putney, 499. Sconvelt, Nicholas, famous for his lutes, 156. Scorn- ful Lady, performance of, 270. Scot, Sir Thomas, and his seat Scotshall, 293. Scot, Lady Catherine (dau. of Earl of Norwich), 200, 206. Scot, Major, 263. Scot, regicide, executed, 261. Scots, Parliament against their settling in Darien, 69. Scotland, conduct of bishops of (1689), 506; declares for William and Mary, 533 ; com- missioners offer the crown, 534 ; episcopacy again voted down in, 535 ; Presbyterians of, 539. Scotus de la Marca, painting by, 288. Scriveners, company of, 397. Scroope, Sir Andrew, 462. Scroope, regicide, exe- cuted, 268. Scroope, Lady, 451. Scuda- mor, Mr., 200, 228. Sea coal, project of charring, 249. Second sight, instance of, 4^5. Sedans introduced into England, 132. Sedley, Sir Charles, and his daughter Catherine, Countess of Dorchester, 373. Sedum arborescens, 429. Selden, John, 331 ; his 'Titles of Honour,' 243. Self- denying Act, contest about, 551. Sem- brador, brought out of Spain, 337. Senetan, Mons., of Paris, 210. Sensitive plant, experiment on, 277. Septalla, Sign., collection of, 183. Sermon in blank verse, 228 ; accounts of ser- mons, 242, 250, 308, 344, 448, 460, 510, 513 ; an hour and half long, 415 ; old-fashioned Sermon tontrasteU with those of (1683), 445. Sermoneta, Da (Girolamo Siciolante), painting by, 106. Seven Dials, building of, 558. Severus Septimius, arch of, 88'; baths, 133. Sewers, commission of, 259, 292. Seymour,Lord, houseat Marlborough, 228. Seymour, Mr. Conyers (son of Sir Edward), killed in a duel, 573. Seymour, Mr., impeaches Earl of Clarendon, 334. Seymour, Mr., speech on elections Ci68j), 478. Seymour, Sir Edward, 553, 583. Sfrondati, Cardinal, Church built by, 133. Shaen, Sir James, 389. Shaftesbury, Earl of, 337 ; president of Council for Planta- tions, 369, 370 ; anecdote of Lord Clifford related by, 376 ; crafty conduct of, 445. Sharp, Mr. Samuel, surgeon, 370. Sharpy Dr. (afterwards Archbishop of York), attempt to silence, 501, 502 ; sermon before the Commons (1689), 528 ; other sermons of, 5S5> 565- Shaw, Sir John, house at Eltham, 297. Sheen, Abbey of. Lord Krouncker's, Sir William Temple's, and Lord Lisle's, 401, 402, 514. Sheerness, arsenal at, 315 ; fortified, 330, 364 ; curi- osities dug up at, 356. Sheldon, Abp., 304, 310, 316, 337, 340, 343, 365 ; translated from London to Canter- bury, 294 ; theatre, &c., at Oxford built by, 299> 30O) 340 ; monument, 579 ; sermon of, 271. Sheldon, Mr. Edward, 555. Sheldon, Ralph, collection of coins, 460. Sheldon, Mr. (nephew of Archbishop), his house, 401. Sherard, Lord, 346. Shere, Mr, Duncomb's house at, 372. Sherlock, Dr., 403 Shirwin, Mr., trial with Sir Wal. Clarges, 578. Ship of 96 guns buill by Cromwell, 242. Shipbuilding, art of, by Sir Anthony Deane, 432. Shirley, James, his ' Young Admiral,' 290. Shirley, Mrs., 261. Shish, Mr., 416 ; vessel built by, 335, 441 ; shoes, various fashions of, 344. Shooter's Hill, mineral waters at, 574. Shore, Sir Bartholomew, 46S. Short, Dr., consulted by Charles II., 558. Shot- over, Sir T. Tyrrell's house at, 384. Shrewsbury, Ilarl of, 411. Shrewsbury, the abandoned Countess of, 310, 410. Shrewsbury, Duke of, 561, 567, 578. Sib- bald, Sir Robert, 501. Siciliano, Jaconio, painting by, 94. Sick and Wounded, and Prisoners of War, Commissioners appoitited (1664), 301, 302. Mr. Evelyn's proceedings as Commissioner, 302, 306, 307, 309, 310, 315, 316, 317, 325, 33I. 332..335, 363. 364, 367, 368, 369, 377. Sidney, Lord, offices held by, in Ireland, 542, 543, 554 Sidney, Algernon, appiahended, 443, 445 455 ; beheaded, 452 ; character of, z7k ; story of, 482, Sidney, Sir Philip, 20^, 223. Sidney, Lady Dorothy (Waller's aacha- rissa), 223. Sidney, Colonel, alleged father of the Duke of Monmouth, 396. Sienna, Baltazar di, arch by, 83. Sienna, account of, 82, 83, 84 ; University, 83 ; Cathedral, t^K, 84, 149 ; Hospital, St. Francis's Church, 83. Silk stockings, engine for weaving, 275. Simon, Abraham, medal engraver, 226. Simplon, Mount, 186. Simson, Mr., his agate cup, 242. Sion, Switzerland, observations on, 188. SioOt 6i4 Duke of Ncithumberland'i ieat, 308. Sirani, Elizabetta, painter, 156. Sissac, Marquis de, loss of, at play, 391. Sixtus v., horses on Monte Cavallo repaired by, 93 ; aqueduct, 94 ; chapel, 95 ; Con- stantino's pillar re-erected by, 105, 139 ; statue of St. Peter on Trajan's column, 140. Skates, introduction of, into England, 290. Skippon, Sir Philip, his account of Wotton's early talents, 408. Sky, remark- able appearance in (1643), 39. Slaniiig, Sir Nicholas, his marriage, 289. Slingsby, Sir Arthur, 200 ; his lottery, 297 ; gover- nor of Portsmouth, 409. Slingsby, M- 288, 317, 331, 390, 400, 411, 460 ; master jf the mint, 290 ; house at Burrow Green, 346 ; secretary to council for trade, 354 ; a lover of musick, 380, 412 ; in decayed circumstances, 572. Sloane, Sir Hans, secretary to Royal Society, 571 ; his col- lection, 543. Small-pox, ravages of (1694), 558) 559- Smith, Sir Jer,, bravery of, 373. Smith, Mr. Robert, 567 ; marriage of, 223 ; Smith, Mr., Speaker of House of Com- mons, 590. Smithfield, woman burnt in (1652), 220. Smyrna Fleet, attack on (1672), 362, 363 1 earthquake at Smyrna, 520. Snape, King's farrier, fatlj^r of Dr Snape, 441. Snake, Virginian rattle, 253. Snatt, Edward, schoolmaster at Southover, 19. Sneydcr, paintings by, 52. Soames, Sir Wm., ambassador to Constantinople, 484. Society for propagating the Gospel, alhnv- ance to Missionaiies (1702), 584. Soldiers, Cluartering of, in private houses prevented in (1685), by Evelyn, 482. Solitude, Mac- kenzie's Essay on, 326. Solomon, Proverbs of, exquisitely written, 230. Somei-s, Lord, made Lord Keeper, 552 ; elected President of the Royal Society, 571 ; charge brought by Parliament against, 576 ; seals taken from him, 578 ; trial of, 581. Somerset, Lord John, 86, 136. Somerset, Duke of, estate left to (1705), 589. Sorbonne, Paris, account of, 45, 46. Sovereign, ship of war, built by ship-monej', 24 ; burnt, 563. South, Dr., 501 ; university orator, 340 ; sermons of, 294, 399. Southampton, Earl of. Lord Treasurer, 203, 297, 303, 330, 374. South- ampton, Duke of, 391. Southover, Sussex, free school at, 19. Southwark Fair (1660), 267 ; suppressed, 551. Southwell, Sir Robert, on ' Water,' 384 ; envoy to Brandenburgh, 416; Secretary of State in Ireland, 542 ; President of Royal Society;, 542, 555, 571. Soutman, Peter, engraving by, 181. Spa Wells, Islington, ^ 501. Spada, Cardinal, palace of, 136. Spain, Queen of, catafalco of (1645), ib. Spain and Portugal, umpirage between (1666), 313. Spanheim, Ezekiel, author of ' Trea- tise on Medals,' 387. Spanish Galleon, weighed up near Hispaniola (1687), 514 ; taken at Vigo (1702), 585. Sparrow, Dr., sermon of, 372. Spclman, Mr. (grandson of Sir Henry), 347, Spencer, present Earl, house at Wimbledon, 283. Spencer, Lord (son of Earl of SundcrlandX intended mar- riage of, 427 ; character, //'., 519 ; alluded to, 542 ; marriage, 559 ; hu.-ary, 57a , Mr., 223, 248. Spencer, Lady Anne, marriage to the Earl of Arran, 512. Spencer, Charles, afterwards Earl of Sunderland, 519, 585. Spencer, Martha, 414. Spencer, Robert, 342, 384. Spencer, Col., 267. Spil- burg, J., view by, 325. Spinola, Marquis, river cut by, 37 ; gardens, 75. Spragge, ex- pedition against, and the Smyrna fleet, 363. Spratt, Dr., Bp. (of Rochester), 341, 38^" 413, 422, 441, 453.. 475, 502, 503; aeon, missioner for ecclesiastical affairs ; resigns, 519; prayer (i683), on the young Prince's birth, 517; his observations on Sorbiere, 119. Spring Garden (1654), 228; Spring garden at Lambeth, 277. Spy Park, Sir Ed. Baynton's, 228. Squirries, at Wester- ham in Kent, 258. Stafford, Viscount, 345 ; antipathy to roses, ib. ; committed for Popish plot, 407 ; trial, 422 — 425 ; be- haviour on his trial, 425 ; beheaded, 426. Staly, executed, 405. Standish, Dr., 483. Standsfield, John, 17, 18. Stanhope, Lord. 205, 208 ; Lady, 390. Stanhope, Deai^ discourses of, 555, 562. Stanhope, Mr., Gentleman Usher, 346. Stapleton, Sit Robert, translator of Juvenal, 22S ; Staple- ton, Col., Gov. of St. Christopher's, 365. Stationers' Company, their great loss ui the fire of London, 321. Stawell, Sir Edward, 442. Steenwyck, Henry, paintings by, 35i 52, 198, 200. Stephen, King, tomb at Gloucester, 234. Stephens, Mr., cousin of Evelyn, 200, 225, 233, 249. Stephens, Mr., attorney, 284. Stephens, William, sermon censured, 576. Stern, Dr., Arch- bishop of York, 551. Stewart, Dr., Dean of St. Paul's, 212, 217 ; his death, 219. Stidolph, Sir F., house at Mickleham, 241. Stillingfleet, Bp., 515, 548 ; his library, 513. Stoake, Nortli, Sus- sex, estate at, 413. Stokes, Dr., 241, 249 ; perpetual motion, 337. Stola Tyberiina (at Rome), 133. Stone, Sir Robert, 37. Stone, operation for, 204. Stonehcnge, description of, 234. Stonehouse, Sir John, 413, 414, 415 ; Lady Stonehouse, 389. Stoope, Monsieur, speech of, 268. Storm, in (1652), 223 ; (1662), 283 ; (1687), 509 ' (1689), 535 ; (1690), 537. Strade, Count de la liberal conduct of, 218, 220. Stradling, Sii William, 27. Stradling, Dr., 294. Straf- ford, Superior of English Jesuits at Rome, 136. Strafford, Earl of, 202 ; trial and exe- cution, 532. Strafford, Lord, son of pre- ceding, 211, 212. Streeter, ^Ir., paintings b}', 352, 370, 411, 436 ; tormented with the stone, 379. Streets of London, commis.sion for regulating, 284, 286, 293. Strickland, Sir Thomas, 357. Stringfellow, Mr., minis- ter of Trinity chapel, sermons by, 545, 555, 559, 576- Stroode, Sir Nicholas, 29S. Stroode, Col., lieutenant of Dover Castle, 303. Stuart, Lady Catherine, 378. Stuart, ^Irs. Frances, the celebrated beauty, ib. Stubbe, Henry, hostile to Royal Society, 650. Sturbridge fair, 240. SulTolk, Earl of, his palace at Audley End, 240. Suffolk, Countess of (1674), 385. SuiToIk House, neai" Charing CrorJs, 241. Suidas, ancient INDEX. 615 MS. of. 573. Sun, eclipse of the (1652), 220 ; (1609), 574. Sunderland, Earl of, his widow (1652), 223. Sunderland, Lord, 442, 462, 484, 572 ; am- bassador to Spain (1671), 3«;S ; and France, (1672), 370 ; his seat at Althorp, 385 ; Vos- terman's view of it, 399 ; secretary of state, 411 ; his unfeeling conduct respecting Lord Ossory, 417 ; sunk by gaming (1681), 428 ; president of the council (1685), 494 ; a com- missioner for ecclesiastical affairs, 502 ; knight of the garter, 509 ; marriage of his daughter, 512 ; the seals taken away from, (168S), 522 ; meditates llight, 524 ; kisses the King's hand on his return from Holland (1691), 544 ; his library, 561 ; entertains VVilliam IIL at Althorp, 563 ; a favourite, and obnoxious to the people, ib. Sunder- land (Lady Anne Spencer), Countess of, (1671), 358, 370, 388, ■!89, 406, 412, 417, 427, 447, 463, 473. 475, 504, 505, 535, 544, 566 ; letters of Mr. Evelyn to, enclosing a cata- logue of religious books for her use, 586. Supper, Paschal, represented in wax- work, 364 ; of Leonardo da Vinci, iSi. Surrey, address to the King (1697), 570. Sussex, address to the King (1660), 265. Sussex, Earl of {teiiifi. Q. Eliz.), 249 ; (1661), 272, Sussex, Countess of, 381 ; daughter of Charles II., 391, 432. Sutton, Sir Edward, skill on Irish harp, 338. Sutton in Shere, Mr. Hussey's house, 429. Swearing, declaration against, set forth, 577. Sweate, Dr., Dean of the Arches, 294. Swiss, the observations relative to, 189, 190. Sydenham, wells at, 387. Sj^lva, or Discourse of Forest Trees, by Evelyn, 289, 295, 343. Evelyn thanked by Charles II., 300. Sylvius, Sir Gabriel, 326, 386, 397, 441 ; his mission to Denmark, 478. Synagogue at Amsterdam, 27. Taberna, Meritoria of the Romans, 113. Tacca, Pietro, statue by, 381. Talbot, Sir Gilbert, master of the jewels, 287, 370. Talbot, Sherrington (son of Sir John), killed in a duel, 480. Tangiers, expedition to, 417. Tapestry' at Hampton Court, 285 ; at Duchess of Portsmotith's, 450. 'I'argoni, ah«r by, 106 ; Tatham, John, p.igeants by, 279, 288, 2S9, 301. Tax-mone3^ from Scot- land, robbery of (1692), 551. Taxes during the Usurpation, 244. Taxus, or Deadly Yew, 150. Taylor, Dr. Jeremy (Bp. of Down and Connor), Mr. Kvelj^n's spiritual adviser, 243, 252, 253, 257, 415 ; on original iin, 244, 247 ; disputes with AI. Le Franc, and procures him ordination, ib. ; his cases of conscience, 251 ; sermons of, 227, 243, 257. Taylor, Capt., case against Lord Mordaunt, 325. Teignmouth, French troops landed at, 541. Tempesta, Antonio, work of, 104. Temple, Sir Purbeck, 561, 562, 577. Temple, Lady Purbeck, trial with her nephew, Mr. Tem- ple, 567, 577. Temple, Sir William, 431, 468 ; his house at Sheene, 395, 402, 574. Temple Bar, human quarters set up at, 565. Temple, Inner, revels at, 570. Tem- ple, ^liddle. ravels at, 38, 335. Teneriffe, Peak of, 271. Tenisoii, Apb., vicai of St. Martin's, 422, 440, 456, 474, 4S0, 481, 507, 517. 545, 547, 552, 558, 562,573,576; li- brary founded by, at St. Martin's, 455, 456, 481, 546 ; sermons of, 457, 468, 475, 498, 508, 520, 545, 552 ; chapel in Conduit-street opened by, 545 ; Bishop ol Lincoln, 547 ; a trustee for the Boyle lec- ture, 548, 555, 588 ; on the author of ' Whole Duty of Man,' 551 ; tabernacle near Golden-square set up by, 552 ; Abp. of Canterbury, 558 ; a Commissioner foi Greenwich Hospital, 561 ; visit of Evelyn at Lambeth, 561 ; opinion respecting Bp. Watson, 568 ; Terra di Lavoro, 123. Terra- cina, formerly Anxur, 121. Terrasso, Marco, lapidary, 175. Terrella, notice of, 243. Test, sacramental (1673), 373. Test (1678). doubts respecting taking it, 406 ; remarks on the test (1689), 532, 534. Testaceus, Mons., at Rome, 134. Testa- ment, New, in vulgar Latin, MS., 560. Thames, river, frozen over (1648), 197 ; design of wharfing from the Temple to the Tower, 326 ; frozen over, and streets of booths, coaches, &c., and amusements, upon it (1684), 454, 555 ; frozen over (1695), 559. Thea Root, 540. Theatre of ISIar- cellus at Rome, 90. Theobaldi, building by, 180. Thetford, town of, 393. Thicknesse, James, of Balliol College, 20, 40, 66, 171. Thistlethwaite, Dr., sermon of, 370. Thomas, Bp. of Worcester, conscientious scruples, 551. Thomond, Lord, house at Newmarket, 347. Thornheuser, a German chymist, 80. Thornhill, Mr., 244. Thorpe, seat of the regicide St. John, 239. Thou, President de, 205. Thrisco, Mr., 262. Thuil- leries. Palace, account of, 51 ; gardens, 52. Thurland, Sir Edward, 336, 386. Thynn, Lady Isabella, painting of. 198. Thynn, Mr., his marriage with the widow of Lord Ogle, 429, 430 ; murder of, 433 ; his monu- ment in Westminster Abbey, ib. Thynn, Mr., 494. Tilbui-y Fort built, 363. Til- lotson. Dr., 337, 341, 440, 547; on the Papists, 405, 475, 504, 530; Archbishop of Canterbury, 541, 544. Tintoretto, II (Giacomo Robusti), paintings by, 163, 168, 223. Tippett, Sir John, his nephew, 454. Tippin, Mr., sermon by, 553. Tithe Ale, 238. Titles of Honour, by Selden, 243. Titian (Tiziano Vecelli da Cadore), pamtings by, 35, 52, no, 152, 153, 166, 168, 258, 406, 420, 463, 565 ; tomb ot, 163. Titus, triumphal arch of, 96 ; baths and statues from, 108, 109. Titus, Col. Silas, author of ' Killing no Murder,' 340, 354, 423, 517- Tividale, Lord, a Scotch noble- man, 295, 412. Tiviot, Lord, a Commis- sioner of Privy Seal, 495. Tivoli, T46, 147. Toledo, Peter de, 128 ; Palace of, 129. Toleration, universal declaration of (1672), 363. Tombs, Mr., his garden, 227. Tomson, merchant, of Genoa, 73. Tomson, Je'.uit, curiosities consigned to his care from China, 296. Tong, Dr. Ezrael, Popish conspiracy discovered by him and Gates. 404 ; account of him, ib. ; his ' Mora] Practice of the Jesuits,' 302. 6i6 J'ljiTington, Earl of, imprisonment of, 541- Torso of Amphion and Dlrce, 87. Tor- ture, account of a malefactor under- going the punishment of, 210. Tours, account of tlie city of, 63, 64. Townshend, T.ord, creation of, 272. Tradescant, John, j\Iuseum of, 253, 401. Trajan, Column of, at Rome, 140. Treacle, drugs used in manufacture of, 262. Trean, mer- chant, his collection of pictures, 198. Treby (Lord Chief Justice), recorder of London, 423, 450, 567, 580. Trelawney, Bp., against James IL's Declaration of Liberty of Conscience, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516; acquitted, 517. Trenchard, Sir Jo., secretary of state, 552. Trenchard, Mr., apprehended for the plot (1683), 443 ; enlarged, 453, Trevor, Sir John, 354, 568 Trinita del Monte, at Rome, 138. Trinity, Platonists MSS. concerning the, 562. Trinity College, Cambridge, 239. Trinity Chapel, Conduit Sti-cct, 545. Trinity House, incorporated, 283 ; great dinner at (1665), 305 ; re-assemble after the plague, 315 ; land for their almshouses given by Sir R. Browne, 353 ; younger brothers (Sir R. Browne and Sir Jer. Smith, masters), 371, 373 ; account of a meeting (1685), 482. Triplet, Mr., 247. Trollop, Mrs., marriage of, 421. Trout, excellent, in the Rhone, 191. Truflles, earth-nuts, 69. Tudor, Mr. Quinquina, introduced, 558. Tuft on, Sir Jo., 243. Tuke, Sir Brian, portrait of, by Holbein, 402. Tuke, Sir Charles, 357, 541, 612 ; birth, death, and character of, 542. Tuke, George, 245, 252,260 ; marriage, 247. Tuke, Sir Samuel, 263, 295 ; at Paris, 201 ; harangue in behalf of Papists, 265 ; sent to break the marriage of the Duke to the Queen Mother, 268 ; sent to Paris on the death of Card. Mazarine, 271 ; plaj' by, 290 ; his marriage, 296, 336 ; christening of his son, 360 ; speech in House of Lords in behalf of the Papists, 371. Tuke, Lady, 372, 378, 456, 472, 475. Tuiliola, daughter of Cicero, supposed corpse of, discovered, 125. Tu!ly, Dr., suspended from his cure, 501. Tully's Offices, an early printed book, 572. Tunbridge Free- school, 306. Tunbridge Wells, beauties of, 277, 297. 'J'urberviile, evidence against Vise. Stafford, 422. Turk christened at Rome, 139. Turk, a rope-dancer so called, «52. Turkey, Fleet destroyed by storm (1693), 559. Turks, costly equipments in the field, 461. Turner, Dr. Francis, Bp. of Ely, Dean of Windsor, 442, 456, 493 ; sermon by, when Bp. of Rochester, 456 ; other sermons, 460, 496 ; petitions James IL against Declaration of Liberty of Con- science, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 5x7 ; at a meeting of Bishops in 1689, respecting the Succession, 525 ; deprived for not taking the oaths to William and Mary, 543, 544 ; at Bp. White's funeral. 571 ; alluded to, 497. Turner, Dr. (brother of the Bp. of Elj'), st^rmoM by, 405. Turnhani Green, Sir John Chardine's head, 589. Tuscany, Prince of, vifit to Royal Society, 340. Twickenham Park, Lord Berkeley's seat, 389. Twisden, Sir Roger, 310. Typography, invention of, 31. Ty- rannus, or the Mode, a pamphlet by Mr. Evelyn, 280 ; anecdote relative to, ^24. Tyrconnell, Earl, 540, 542 ; powers given to, in Ireland (1686), 500, 504 ; appointed Lord Lieutenant, 505 ; Ireland endangered by his army (1689), 529, 531. Tj'rell, Sir Tim., marriage, house at Shotover, 299, 384. Tyrill, Mr., 304. Tj'son, Dr., ana- tomist, 460. Vaga, Picrino del, 138 ; paintings by, 54, 206. Valence, city of, 69, 70. Vamlire, near Paris, 204, 205. Vanbeck, Barbara, a hairy woman, 253. Vanbrugh, Mr., Sec- retary to the Commission for Greenwich Hosintal, 561. Vandall, painting by, 27. Vanclcrborcht, portrait of Evelyn by, 24. Vander Douse, Mr., 441. Vandervoorst, Mr. , of Venice, his books, 174. Vandyke, Sir Anthonj', paintings by, 227, 258, 339, 392, 406, 462, 463, 514, 553, 592. _ Vane, old Sir Harrj', confined m Carisbrook Castle, 249. Vane, Sir Henry the younger, a Privy Counsellor, 517, 554. Vanni, picture by, 133. Vanni, Curtius, 106. Van Tromp, Admiral, 326. Vasari, Giorgio, paintings by, 136, 153. Vatican, ceremony of conferring Cardinal's hat, 99 ; dcscrip- tion of, 113 — 118 ; library, 116. Vaudois Protestants, collection for, 537 ; restored to their country, 540 ; received by German princes, 572. Vaughan, Lord Chief Jus- tice, 331. Vau.xhall, Sir Samuel Morlai.d's house at, 429. Udinc, Da' (Giovanni Nanni), paintmg by, 114. Veau, M., his academy of horsemanship, 59. Veins, arteries, and nerves, tables of, purchased by Evelyn at Padua, 174, 199 ; lent to College of Physicians, 224 ; presented to the Royal Society, 325, 583. Veletri, 120. Vendosme, Duke of, a brother of, 442. Venetian ambassador, entry into London (1696), 565. _ Venice, description of (1645-6), 158, 167, 168, 169, 170 — 175, 242 ; the bagnios, 158 ; origin of Venice, z'S. ; the espousal of the Adriatic, 151 ; gondolas, /A ; Rialto ; taking the air on the canal ; Fondigi de Todeschi ; Merceria, 160 ; piazza of St. Mark and clock over the arch, id. ; church of St. Mark, 161 ; Tresoro di San Marco, or reli- quary, a. ; exchange, senate-hall, 162 ; Zecca or mint, tower of St. Mark, 163 ; mart in Ascension week, costume of Vene- tian ladies, courtesans, citizens, 164 ; the opera; (Ihetto de San Felice, i7k ; the arsenal, 167 ; execution, 168 ; church ol St. Johanne and Paulo, id. ; St. George's (a Greek church), 169 ; other churches- island of St. Maria Maggiore and church t6. ; other islands, t'd. ; island of Murar and glass manufactory'-, 170, 171 ; island of St. Michael and church, tl>. ; Sign. Ru- gini's collection, 172, 173 ; the carnival ; oprras. 173; the Ghetto; a Jewish mar- INDEk. 617 ttage, 174 ; lapidaries, 175 ; policy of Venice with regard to Viiiceiiza, 177. Venipont, John, Campanile built by, 76. Venus, statues of, 153. Venus of Correggio, 554. Venusti, Marcello, paintings by, 139. Vemeuille, Duke of, 307. Vernon, Mr., sec- retary of state, 578. Verona, description of (1646), 178, 179 ; amphitheatre, remains of former magnificence, ib. ; Count C-iusti's villa, 178 ; Scaliger's praises of, ib. Vero- nica, St., altar, 102; handkerchief, 143. Verrio, Sign., 411 ; his garden, 410, 417 ; fresco paintings by, at l .uston, 328 ; at Windsor, 400, 410, 442, 484 ; at Cashiobury, 415; Chiswick, 442; Montague House, 451 ; Ashted, 457 ; Whitehall, 505 ; charac- ter of his paintings, 442 ; settled at St. ames's, 502. Verrochii, Andrea, statue y, 168. Verulam, Lord, 297. Vespasian, temple of Peace, built by, 87 ; amphi- theatre of, 97. Vestlingius, Dr., of Padua, 170, 172, 174, 335. Vesuvius, iNloiiut, account of, 125, 126, 127. Vienna, siege of (1683), 449. Vienne, account of, 6g. Vignola, architect, 91, 149, 723. Ville- frovv, in Flanders, 35. Villiers, Lord Francis, slain, 196. Vincennes, Bois de, 47. Vincent, Sir Francis, 544, Vincenza, account of (1646), 176, 177 ; hall of justice, theatre, 176 ; piazza. Count Ulma- rini's garden, 177. Vinci, Leonardo da, paintings by, 52, 54, 80, 156, 180, 258, 392 ; nis Coena Domini at Milan, 181 ; his death, 181. Viner, Sir George, carving by (jib- bon purcliased by, 353. Viner, Sir Robert, banker, 407. Vineyard, peculiar planting of one, 65. Viol d'amore, a musical instru- ment, 412. Virgilius Evangelizans, 225. Virgil's tomb, 127. Virgin Queen, by Di-y- den, 327. Virginian rattle-snake, 253. Visse, Mons. , concert at his house, 208. Vitel- lesco, Hippolito, his collection of statues, 109. Vitcrho, brief account of, 86. Vitru- vius, statue of, 178. Ulmarini, Count, of Vincenza, 177. Linion, a fine sort of pearl, 138. University College, Oxon, 385. Volaterra, F., church built by, 139. Vol- pone, a play, 219. Volterra, Di (Daniele Ricciabelli), paintings by, 136, 138. Vos- sius, Lsaac, 371, 38S, 389 ; Vostermann, painting by, 399. Upman, Mr., 390. Upnor Castle, fortified, 329, 368. Upping- ham, Rutland, brief notice of, 235. Vrats, Col., assassin of Mr. 'I'hynn, executed, 433» 434- Urban VIIL, Pope, public works of, 88, loi, 102, 117, 138 ; his monu- ment, IC3 ; statue, 120. Ursino, Fulvius, museum of, 87. Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, sermons of, 199, 200, 220, 429 ; conversation with Evelyn, 243 ; his daughter, 299 ; prophecy of, 493 ; life and letters, 498 ; Dr. Parr his chaplain, 361, 429. Vulcan, court of, 128 ; the temple, 129. Wade, Capt., court-martial on, 585. Wains- ford, Mr, 209. Wake, Dr. (afterwards Archbislv)!)), 5B2 ; sermons of, 504, 508. Wakei>iaii, .Sir Geor^je, his trial, 468, 475. Waldenses, destruction of, 533. Waldrond, Dr., 364. Wales, Prince of, son of James 1 L, birth of, 520, 54S, 576 ; James IL calls council to testify his birth, 522 ; sent to Portsmouth with treasure, 524. Wall- grave, Dr., physician, his skill on the lute, 380, 456, 462. Walgrave, Sir H., created a peer, 496. Walker, Sir Edward, 293 ; anecdote of Lord Clilford told by, 376. Walker, Dr. Obadiah, 198, 217 ; in com- mission to thank Evelyn for procuring Arundelian ISIarbles, 334 ; University Col- lege repaired by, 385; dispensation granted to, 499 ; perverted several young gentlemen to the Romish faith, ib. ; license to print popish book refused, 500 ; his Treatise on Meilals, 560. Walker, Dr. (of London derry), death of, 540. Wall, Jo., account of, 45, 46. Waller, Ed- mund, in Italy and France after his escape, i75> 176, 194. 196, 197, 2o3, 212 ; his return to England, 217 ; a commissioner of trade, 354. Waller, Sir Hardrcss, 382, Wallei. Richard, of Groomsbridge, 223. Waller, Sir William, 38. Waller, Mr., extraor- din.ary talents of, 556. Wallis, Dr., mathe- matical professor, 268, 299, 341. Walter, Sir William, ^428. Walters, Mrs. Lucy, 391. Walton, Bp., his Biblia Polyglotta, 224. Walton heath, Roman Antiquities found on, 259. Wanstead House, Sir Josiah Child's, 439. War, prisoners of, treaty for exchanging, 306. Ward, Dr. Seth, afterwards Bishop of Salisbury, 229, 377, 442. Ward, Mrs., solicits an Order of Jesuitesses, 148. Warley Magna, Essex, manor of, 200. Warren, Dr., sermon of, 504. Warrington, Lord, death of (1693), 555- Warwick, Guy of, arms of, 235; Grot and chapel, Warwick, Earl of (1661), 272. Warwick, Sir Philip, 266, 294, 295, 296, 386. \Var- wick, castle and town of, 234 Warwick, Constant, frigate, 538. Warwickshire, address to Charles IL,265. Wase, Christo- pher, 217, 220, 339, 340. Waterworks, by Mr. Winstanley, at Chelsea, 565. Watson, Dr. Thomas, Bp. of St. David's, sus- pended for simony, 568 ; deprived, 574. Watts, Mr., keeper of Apothecaries' garden, 482. Way-wiser, description of that instrument, 252. Weather, observations on (1649^ 202,* (1666), 325 ; (1670), 350 ; (1684), 453, 454, 455 ; (16S5), 458, 459, 460 ; (1686), 462, 478, 479 ; (1687), 500, 501, 502 ; (1688), 509, 511 ; (1691), 514 ; (1692), 546, 547 ; (1693), 547— 551 ; (1694), 552—555 ; (1695), 555. 557, 558, 559, 560, 561—563 ; (1696), 563, 567—570 ; (1697) 568, 569; (1699), £72, 574, 575 ; (1700), 577, 578 ; (1701), 581,- 582 ; (1703), ^86, 587 ; (1705), 589. Weathercocks fixed on trees, 366. Webb, , paintings in his possession, 198. Webb, Mr., architect, 279. Weese-house, at Amsterdam, 28. Welbeck, Marquis of Newcastle's seat, 313. Welsh, resemblance of Breton language to, 384. Wentworth, Lord (1649), 2or, 218 ; (1663), 292. Went- wuriii, Lady Henrietta, inisircss of Duko 6i8 INDEX. of Monmouth, 380, 485. Wessell, Mr., of Bansted, M.P. for Surrey, 583. West- minster Abbey, burial of Cowley in, 331, Westminster Hall, shops formerly in, 27. Westminster School, exercises of boys going to College (1661), 276. Westmore- land, Lord, oath of, 555. Weston, Eliza- beth Joan, a learned lady, 338. Weston, Mr., contested election for Surrey, 578. Westram, estate at, 226. Wetherhorn, Dr., physician, 263. Weybrldsre, Duke of Norfolk's house at, 401, 402. Whale, immense one, taken near Greenwich, 257 ; another in the Thames C1699), 572. Whaly, Col., 254. Wharton, Lord, 350. Wharton, Sir George, a famous mathematician, 316. Wharton House, Nottinghamshire, 236. Wheeler, Sir Chas., governor of St. Christopher's, 357 ; his removal recommended, 360 ; an executor of Viscountess Mordaunt, 412. Wheeler, Sir George, 453, 454, 504. Wheeler, Paul, musician, 246. Whistler, Dr., K.R.S.,389, 400, 438. Whitbread, Thomas, Jesuit, anecdote of, 406. Whitfield, Sir Ralph, 40. White, Bishop, named Dr. Cosin, 214. White, Bishop of Peterborough, sermon of, 498 ; petitioned against liberty of con- ■icience, 515 ; sent to the Tower, 516 ; tried and acquitted, 525 ; on the Revolution, 525. White, Dr., Bishop of Norwich, his funeral (1698), 571. White, Mr., priest and philosopher of Paris, 211. Whitehall, when in occupation of rebels (1650), 207 ; state of (1656), 246 ; goods pillaged from, restored, 265 ; ball and play at (1671), 352 ; library at, 419, 429 ; popish oratory at (1685), 469 ; new chapel at, 504 ; Queen's apartments, 506 ; fire at (1696), 543. Whitlocke, Bulstrode, Queen's house given to, by the rebels, 220. Whittal, Tom, and his brother, anecdote of, 554. Whole Duty of Man, Dr. Chaplin supposed to be the author, 537. Wiburn, Sir John, governor of I'.ombay, 475. ' Widow,' a lewd play, 283. Wight, Isle of, treaty of, 197. Wilbraham, Mr., 441, Wild, Dr. (afterwards Bishop of Londonderry), 242, 245, 249, 250 — 259, 262. Wild House, Spanish ambassador's residence, 427. Wil- kins. Dr., 229, 246, 247, 308 ; his mechanical genius, 231 ; sermon by, and notice of him, 245 ; consecrated Bp. of Chester, 337 ; William the Conqueror, tomb of, at Caen, 56. William IIL, his landing in England re- ported, 520 ; manifesto of, 517 ; landing of, 523 ; his progress to London, 524 ; James IL invites him to St. James's, 187 ; proceed- ings thereupon, ib. ; Convention vote the Crown to him and the Princess, 506 ; his morose temper, 528 ; declared King, ib. ; proclaimed, 529 ; his accession, 530, 531 ; coronation, ib., 532; his birth-day and anniversary, 536 ; resolves to go in person to Ireland, 537, 538; sets out, 540; buys Kensington, 537 ; his victory at the Boyne, 540; woundedj ib. ; embarks for Holland, 552 ; progress in the north, 562 ; fireworks >n his return, 56 ^ ; entertained at Althorv, ib. ; conspiracy to assassinate, 564 ; eotrr into London, 569 ; his death, 5S3. Williams, Dr., Boyle lecturer, 558, 563. Williams, Archbishop, 239. Williamson, Sir Joseph, offices held by, 301, 331, 326, 33I) 34°) 381, 389 ; his advancement, 378 ; Pres. of Roy. Soc, 398,438. Williamstadt, brief account of, 32. Willoughby, Lord, 253, 285 ; Governor of Barbadoes, 365. Wilmot, Lord, 201, 217. Wilson, Mr., killed in a duel, 47, 48. Wilton, seat of the Earl of Pembroke, 233, 589.- Wimble- don, Earl of Bristol's house at, 283. Winch, Sir Humphry, 301, 354, 370, 407. Win- chelsea, ruins of, 221. Winchelsea, Lord, ambassador to Constantinople, 244, 26,^, 433. Wmchelsea, Earl of, seat at Burleigh, 236. Winchester, Bishop (1685), miracle related by, 485. Winchester, Marchioness of (1680), 423. Winchester, 38 ; palace to be built at, 449. Wind, tempestuous(i658), 258 ; (1703), 537. Windsor Castle and Chapel, 228 ; Charles L's burial-place, ib. ; offering of Knights of the Garter at the chapel, 348 ; about to be repaired by Prince Rupert, 349 ; statue at the expense of Rustat, 416, 417 ; paintings in fresco, carving and improvements, 442 ; church service (1685), 4S4 ; painting in the hall, 484 ; hunting-house, 486 ; cathedral, ib. ; alluded to, 550. Windsor, Lord, 350. Winnington, Sir Francis, 423. Winstanley, Mr., 283; waterworks, by, 567; built the Eddystone lighthouse, and perished in it, 567. Winter, Sir John, project of charring sea-coal, 249. Winter, severity of (1658), 257 ; paper on the effects of the winter of (1603), by Evelyn, 457. Wirteniburg, Prince of (1646), 174. Witches in New England, 551. Withers, an in- genious shipwright, 373. Withings, Mr. Justice, 452. Woldingham church and parish, 397. Wolley, Rev. Dr., 217 ; at tended the English Court in France, 216 Wolsey, Cardinal, his burial place, 235 ; birth place, 249. Woman, hairy, 253 ; gi- gantic, 339 ; singular marks on the arm, 347. Wood, Anthony \ his Athena;, 445 ; Wood, Sir Henry, marriage, 217 Wood- stock palace, destruction of, 298 Wool- wich, battery, &c., erected at, 329. Wor- cester, Marquis of, 345, 400. Worcester, battle of, 214. Worcester, brief notice jf, 234. Worksop abbey, brief notice of, 236 Worsley, Dr., 377 ; on the Plantations, 361 Wotton, Dr. William (son of Rev. tlenr>'), 568 ; when a child, 408 ; sermon by, 558 ; Wotton, Lord, on draining, 347 ; his house at Hampstead, 390. Wotton, Surrey, man sion of tne Evelyn family, 17, 18; improve- ments at, 39, 220, 569 : hospitality of, at Christmas, 569, 570. Wotton, administra- tion of Sacraments (1694), 557 ; Dr. Bohun presented to the living, 581. Wray, Capt. (son of Sir Chris.), 176, 179, 193. Wren, Sir Christopher, 299, 352, 353, 389. 398, 419, 455, 456, 571 ; his early talents, 230, 232 ; theatre at Oxford built by, 223 ; a commissioner for repair of old St. Paul's, London, 317 ; verses by, 381 ; Ashmolear INDEX. 619 Museum bulli by, 401 ; hir. son, 4^7 ; Si. Paul's, monument, and fifty churches, building by, 427 ; president of the Royal Socifity, 430; desijjn of Chelsea CollcL^e, 435 ; commissioner for Greenwich Hospital, 561, 566, 567. Wren, Dr., Bishop of Ely, 271. Wren, Matthew, son of Bishop of ICly, 250, 301. Wrestling match, before his Majesty (1661), 327. Wright, Sir Na- than, Lord Keeper, 578. Wright, Chief Justice, 517. Wright, Michael, 296 ; painting!* by, 260, 288. Wriothesley, Thomas, I 'arl of Southampton, 451. Wych, Sir Cyril, president of Royal Society, 451, 549> 574, 726 ; Lord Justice in Ireland, S54. Wych, Lady, wife of Sir Cyril, and niece of I '.vclyn, 549, 574, 576. Wye, Mr,, '«ctor of Wotton, 581. Yarborough, Sir Thomas, 445. Yachts first introduced into England, 277. Yew-tree, remarkably large one, 293. York, city, and minster, 237. York House, Strand, 245. Young, Capt., capture by, 251 ; the death and character of, 554. Youth, ad- vice to, 599. Zacchary, of Genoa, marvellous anecdote of his shipwreck, 73. Zenno, Sign., Venetian ambassador, 495. Zinnar-tree, quality of, 448. Zinzendorf, Count de, 442. Zitelle, procession of, at Rome, 113, 142. Zuccaro, paintings by, 87, 138, 140. Zulestein, Monsieur, 350. Zulichem, 5lonsiem, 37a 27S, 297- TH K KND. GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 3 3125 00885 7753