Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute f » y % https://archive.org/details/londonartofcookeOOfarl THE yM. yf. * London Art of Cookery, yv AND HOUSEKEEPER’S COMPLETE ASSISTANT. On a NEW PLAN. Made Plain and Eafy to the Underftanding of every HOUSEKEEPER, COOK, and SERVANT in the Kingdom. c o N T A Proper Diregions for the Choice of all Kinds of Provifions. Inftru&ions for truffing Poultry. Roafting and Boiling all Sorts of Butchers Meat, Poultry, Game, and Fifh. Baking, Broiling and Frying. Sauces for every Occafion. Soups, Broths, Stews, and Hafhes. Ragoos and Fricaffees. Made Dirties, both plain and elegant. All Sorts of Pies and Puddings. Pancakes and Fritters. Proper InftrudUons for dreffing Fruits and Vegetables. Pickling, Potting, and Preferving. I N X N G, The Preparation of Hams, Tongues, and Bacon. To keep Garden Stuffs and Fruits in Perfection. The whole Art of Confe&ionary. The Preparation of Sugars. Tarts, Puffs, and Parties. Cakes, Cuftards, Jams, and Jellies. Drying, Candying, and Prelerving Fruits, &c. Elegant Ornaments for Entertainments. InftrudFions for Carving. Neceffury Articles for Sea-faring Pevfons. Made Wines, Cordial Waters, and Malt Liquors. To which is added, AN APPENDIX, Containing Confiderations on Culinary Poifons; Directions for making; Broths, 8cc. for the Sick; a Lift of Things in Seafon in the rtftereiit Months of the Year; Marketing Tables, &c. &c. Embellirtied with A HEAD of the AUTHOR, and a Bill of Fare for every Month in the Year, elegantly engraved on Thirteen Copper-plates! By J O H N F A R L E Y, PRINCIPAL COOK AT THE LONDON TAVERN. The SIXTH E D I T I O |I, With the Addition of near Two Hundred new and elegant Re CE'ipts in the various Branches of Cookery. LONDON: Printed for J. SCATCHERD and J. WHITAKER, N° tz , B. LAW, N° ij, Ave-Mavia-Lane ; and G. and T. WILKIE, St. Paul's Church-Yard. 1789. [Price Six Shillings Bound.J 4 ' o / PREFACE. c° 0 K E R T, like every other Art , has been moving forward to Perfection by fow De¬ greesand , though the Cooks of the laf Century boafed of having brought it to the highef Pitch it could bear, yet we find that daily Improvements are fill making therein, which mufi be the Cafe of every Art depending on Fancy and Fa fie: And though there are fo many Books of this Kind already pub - lifijed , that one would hardly think there could be Occafion for another, yet we flatter ourfelves, that A 2 the PREFACE. the Readers of this Work will find , from a candid Perufal , and an impartial Comparifon , //to our Pretenfions to the Favours of the Public are not ill founded. ‘The Generality of Books of this Kind are fo grouped together , without Method or Order , to render them exceedingly intricate and bewildering ; and the Receipts written with fo much Carelejfnefs and Inaccuracy , as not only to render them exceed¬ ingly perplexing , but frequently totally unintelli¬ gible. In this Work , however , w hope, that Perfpicuity and Regularity will be feen in every Step we have taken. We have divided the whole Book into feparate Parts , and thofe Parts into Chapters \ fo that the Readers have only to look into the Contents , and they will there find , at one View , the whole of that Branch of Cookery they may want to confult. The Utility of regularly clajjing every Thing in a Book of this Kind is too obvious to need Arguments to fupport it. , * The greateft Care and Precaution have been taken to admit nothing inelegant , or prejudical to the PREFACE. the Constitution, in any of the Receipts in this Book; and we have not only given, in the Appendix, a diftinB Sold ion on Culinary Poifons, but have alfo , in different Parts of the Work, reminded the Cooks of the fad Confequences of not keeping their Coppers and Saucepans properly clean and tinned . As this Work is intended for the Ufe of all Ranks in general, not only for thofe who have attained a tolerable Knowledge of Cookery, but alfo for thofe who are but young in Experience , we have occa¬ ff on ally given the moff fimple with the niofl fumptu - ous Difhes , and thereby direBed them how properly to decorate the Table of' either the Peer or the Mechanic. The various Branches of Paftry and ConfeBion- ary, fuch as the making of Pies and Puddings, ' Cakes, Cuffards, Jams and Creams, Jellies, Pre- ferves and Conferves, and all the other numerous and elegant Articles of that Clafs, as well as the Preparation of Pickles and Preferves, and the Art of making Wines and Cordials, are treated under diflinB Heads, and rendered plain, eafy, and fami - A 3 liar, P R E F A C £. //jr, to every Capacity. We fhall only add, that neither Labour, Care , nor Expence , have been /pared to make this Work worthy of the Patronage of the Public . ) AD V E R- r ADVERTISEMENT TO THE \ SIXTH EDITION. r JpHE very flattering Preference this Book has received, is an indifputable Proof of its Superiority over every one of the Kind ; and we are juRified in this Affertion, by the very rapid Sale of the five former numerous Editions. In order to preferve fo diftinguifhing a Mark of public Approbati¬ on, we added upwards of One hundred and fifty new and elegant Receipts in the various Branches of Cookery, Sec. See. to the lafl Edition. The lingular Approba¬ tion they met with has induced us to at¬ tempt Rill further Improvements, and we A 4 have ADVERTISEMENT. have accordingly enriched the prefent Edi¬ tion with near Two hundred new and ap¬ proved Receipts, without depriving the Work of a tingle Article it before con¬ tained. We doubt not, but that the At¬ tention we have paid to the Improvement of this Book, for which Purpofe neither Labour nor Expence have been fpared, will continue to be candidly received by the generous and difcerning Public. CON- c O N T E N T S. \ _r_^_ PART I. COOKERY in GENERAL. INTRODUCTION, page i. CHAP. I. Directions for the proper Choice of different Kinds of Provifions . T O choofe beef page 4 -- mutton - ibid. -- lamb - ibid. - -veal - ibid. -pork - 5 »■ ■ ■ — hams - ibid. -bacon - ibid. - brawn - ibid. -venifon - 6 --— turkies - ibid. -cocks and hens ibid. --geefe - ibid. - ducks - 7 ■ ■ — pheafants - ibid. -woodcocks ibid. • " ■ -- partridges ibid. To choofe buftards - 8 pigeons ibid. hares ibid. rabbits ibid. fifh 9 turbot ibid. foies ibid. lobfters ibid. fturgeons - ibid. cod 10 fkate ibid. herrings ibid. trout ibid. tench II falmon ibid. fmelts ibid. To CONTENTS. To choofe eels - n -flounders ibid. —-ovfters - ibid. j ——■—- prawns and fhrimps 12 ——-- butter - ibid. To choofe cheefe eggs 12 ibid. The different parts of an ox, flieep, lamb, or hog - 13 CHAP. II. Directions for 'Truffing. Preliminary Hints Obfervatioiis Turkics Geefe - ' Ducks Fowls Chickens and 14 *5 16 :}7 ibid. ibid. Wild fowl Pigeons Woodcocks and fnipes Larks, wheat-ears, Sec. Pheafants and partridges Hares - I Rabbits 18 ibid. ibid. ibid. 20 ibid. CHAP. III. BOILING. i o boil grafs Obfervations on boiling 21 lamb - 22 a calf’s head ibid. veal like fturgeon ibid. a haunch or neck of venifon - 23 hams - 24 tongues - ibid. pickled pork ibid. leg of muttqn with cauliflower and fpinach chickens fowls turlcies geefe another way to fmoak a goofe ibid. ducks ibid. . 2 5 ibid. ibid. 26 ibid.. pigeons rabbits . ?7 ibid, ibid. To boil partridges - 27 —-- pheafants - ibid. -—* fnipes or wood¬ cocks pig’s pettitoes turtle mock turtle falmon fal mon in wine foies foies with white 28 ibid. 29 3 2 .33 ibid. 34 ibid. wine foies a la Fran^ois ibid. foies the Dutch way 35 trout cod’s head fait cod cod founds turbot turbot in gravy ibid, ibid, ibid. . 3 6 ibid. ibid. To CONTENTS. To boil turbot with capers 37 To boil herrings 39 -- pike ibid. -- perch ibid. * ■ ■-— fturgeon 38 -— eels ibid. -mackarel ibid. -— mullets 40 —- flat fifti 39 . y C H A P. IV. R O A S TING. Obfervations on roafting 40 To roaft a fore quarter of houfe lamb 42 - — tongues or udders ibid. _fweetbreads - ibid. . _- venifon - ibid. -.-faddle of mutton 43 __haunch of mut¬ ton - ibid. - a leg of mutton with oyfters ibtd. ~ pig s ~ ibid. - hind quarter of a pig lamb-faftiion 45 - ham or gammon ibid. - calf’s head - 46 - calf’s head the German way ibid. - calf’s liver - 47 - ox- palates - ibid. - green geefe - ibid. To roaft ftubble geefe 4 3 -— chickens ibid. -fowls / - ibid. -pheafants ibid. -fowls, like phea- fants - > 49 -pigeons ibid. --larks ibid. —--. quails ibid. ■-ducks 50 --turkies ibid. -ruffs and rees - 51 ——-rabbits ibid. -- rabbits, hare fa- fhion ibid. -hares ibid. --—— woodcocks and fnipes 52 --eels and lampreys ; ibid. -lobfters 53 -cod’s head ibid. CHAP. V. B A To bake mutton {leaks ._a leg of beef -rump of beef --calf’s head • -pigs KING. 54 To bake falmon ibid. -carp ibid. -cod’s head ^-herrings ibid. -‘P^ts . 5 6 ibid. . 57 ibid. 5 S 5 CHAP. CONTENTS CHAP. VI. © broiling. Obfervations on broiling 58 To broil beef Peaks - ibid. -mutton chops 59 --pork chops - ibid. -chickens - ibid. -pigeons - ibid. -weavers - 60 •-cod - ibid. -crimped cod ibid. - ■ trout - ibid. --— cod founds - 61 To broil lobPers 61 -mackarel ibid. -falmon 62 -* eels ibid. -eels pitch-cocked ibid. - haddocks and whitings ibid. -mullets 63 -herrings ibid. - potatoes ibid. eggs ibid . CHAP. VII. frying. Obfervations on frying 64 To fry venifon ibid. — ox tongues 6 5 •-ox feet ibid. —— beef Pakes ibid. -loin or neck of lamb 66 -veal cutlets ibid. -cold veal ibid. - fweetbreads 67 - tripe ibid. -faufages ibid. *-potatoes ibid. To fry artichokes 67 - celery 68 - turbot ibid * -foies ibid. -fmelts ibid. -oypers . 6 9 -carp ibid. -tench ibid. -eels . 7 ° --lampreys ibid. -mullets Void. -herrings O 7 * CHAP. VIII. STEWS and HASHES. To Pew a rump of beef 71 ■—- - 4 rump of beef, or brifket, the French way 72 *-beef gobbets ibid. - -Peaks - n 7 To Pew ox tongues -mutton --lamb's head --- knuckle of veal -calf’s head - To hafh veal 74 . ?5 ibid. C O N T To mince veal - 77 To flew ox palates ibid. * - neats tongues whole - _ 78 To hafh venifon - ibid. To flew turkies or fowls ibid. - --— turkies brown ibid. -chickens 79 -geefe giblets 80 -— pheafants ibid. To flew woodcocks and partridges - ibid. — - ducks - ibid. To hafh wild ducks 81 * -hares - ibid. To jug hares - ibid. To flew peas and lettuce ibid. ENTS. To flew cucumbers 82 - pears - ibid. -chardoons 83 -muffels - ibid. -carp and tench ibid. --carp white 84 - barbie - ibid. -lobflers - ibid. -lampreys & eels 85 -flounders, plaice and foies - ibid. To make water fokey ibid. To ft ew oyflers *- 86 To fcollop oyflers ibid. To flew prawns, fhrimps, or craw-fifh ibid. C H A R A G ragoo a fore quarter f houfe lamb 87 - beef ibid. - ox palates 88 - calf’s feet ibid. - breafl of veal 80 neck of veal ibid. - fweetbreads - ibid. leg of mutton 90 ■- goofs ibid. C H A F R I C A To fricafTee lamb flones 94 »-calf’s feet ibid. - -— fweetbreads white 95 *- fweetbreads brown ib. -- fweetbreads and palates . ibid. P. IX. o o s. To ragoo pig’s feet & ears 91 - livers - ibid. -- mufhrooms ibid. - artichoke bottoms 92 - afparagus - ibid. • -- cucumbers - ibid. - cauliflowers ibid. - muflels - 93 -:- oyflers - - ibid. ' Another method ibid. P. X. * S S E E S. To fricafTee ox palates 95 chickens - q6 pulled chickens ibid. pigeons - ibid. rabbits - g 7 neat’s tongues 98 To 6 E 'N T S. T > ■'' -■*. C O N T / To fricaffee tripe 98 ——— artichoke bottoms ib. -- mufhrooms - 99 ---—■ fkirrets - ibid, — - eggs - ibid. - - eggs with onions ami mufhrooms ibid. To fricaflee cod founds 1 00 ■ - - foies - ibid. — -plaice and floun¬ ders - ibid. - ficate, or thorn- backs - ior -— fifh in general ibid. CHAP. XI. MADE DISHES. 102 10 3 ibid. 104 ibid. IC 5 ibid. 106 ibid. Obfervations on made difhes Beef a-la-mode Beef a-la-royal Beef a-la-daub Beef olives Beef tremblonque Beef collops Portugal beef Bouille beef Sirloin of beef en epigram 107 The inflde of a lirloin of beef forced - ibid. The inflde of a rump of beef forced - ibid. A round of beef forced ibid. Beef (leaks rolled jo8 Boeuf a-la-vinegrette ibid. Beef efcarlot - ibid. Tripe a la Kilkenny 109 Tongue and udder forced ibid. Porcupine of a bread of veal - ibid. A grenade of veal no Terrine of veal griflles m Veal a-la-bourgeoife ibid. Neck of veal a-la-royal 112 Veal olives - ibid. A. fillet of veal with collops 113 Fricando of veal - ibid. Bombarded veal ibid. Shoulder of veal a-la- Piedmomoife - 114 120 Sweetbreads a-la-Dau- ^ phme _ nr^ Sweetbreads en gordiniere 115 A calf’s pluck - ibid. A midcalf . XI 5 Calf’s head roafled ibid. Calf’s head furprife n 7 Bread: of veal in hodge¬ podge - ibid. Difguifed leg of veal and bacon n8 Eoin of veal en epigram 119 A pillow of veal ibid. Savoury difh of veal ibid. T o drefs the ombles of a deer Harieo of a neck of mut. ton - ibid. Shoulder of mutton fur- prifed - ibid, A bafque of mutton j 2 j Sheep’s rumps and kidnies ibid. Mutton rumps a-la-braife 122 Shoulder of mutton boiled with onion fauce ibid. Mutton kebobbed ibid. Mutton the Turkifh way ibid. Leg of mutton a-la-haut- 123 mutton roafled with cockles Hid, Leg of mutton roafled with oyfters - ibid . Mutton gout Leg of C O N T Mutton chops in difguife 123 Shoulder of mutton en epigram - 124 Scotch collops - ibid. Sweetbreads a-la-daub 125 Oxford John - -ibid. Lamb’s head - ibid. Lamb’s bits - 126 Leo; of lamb forced ibid. O Lamb chops en cafarole 127 Barbacued pig - ibid. A pig au Pere Duillet ibid. A pig matelote - ^128 A goofe a-la-mode 129 Ducks a-la-mode ibid. Ducks a-la-braife 130 Turkey a-la-daube ibid. Fowls a-la-braife 131 Fowls forced - ibid. Artificial chickens or pi¬ geons - 132 Chickens in favory jelly ibid. Chickens furprife ibid. Chickens chiringrate 133 Chickens & tongues , 134 Large fowls forced ibid. Fowls marinated ibid. Pellets a-la-Sante Mene- hout - 135 ENTS. Pigeons compote 133 -- fricando 135 -in favory jelly ibid. - a-la-daub ibid. -a-poire - 137 —-furtout ibid. f rench nupton of pigeons 138 Pigeons tranfmogrified ibid. -— a-la-Souiiel ibid. Partridges a-la-braife ibid. Pheafants a-la-braife' 139 Small birds in favory jelly 140 Florendine hares ibid. - rabbits 141 Rabbits furprifed - ibid. -in cafferole 142 A harico, by way of foup ibid. Cucumbers with eggs ibid. A folomon-gundy 144 Maccaroni - ibid. Amulets - ibid. Amulet of afparagus 144 Tongue & udderforced ibid. Cutlets a-la-Maintenon ibid. Ham a-la-braife 143 Smelts in favory jelly ibid. Marinate foies - 146 Qyfter loaves - ibid . CHAP. XII. SAUCES Venifon fauces * - 146 To thicken butter for peas, greens, fifh, he. 147 To melt butter - ibid. To clarify butter ibid. Gravies - ibid. Brown gravy - 148 Browning for made difhes ib. Sicilian fauce - 149 Ham fauce » ibid. for every Qccaftan. Sauce for any kind of . , .- roafted meat - 149 Sauce for a fhoulder of mutton - ibid. EfTence of ham - 150 Forcemeat balls - ibid. Caper fauce - ibid. Apple fauce - 1 r: r Mint fauce - ibid. Sauce Robert - ibid. Sauce CONTENTS. Sauce for a pig * 5 * Sauce for a green goofe .*52 Sauce for a turkey ibid. White fauce ibid. Sauce for pheafants and partridges .*53 Sauce for larks ibid. Sauce for a hare ibid. Sauce for boiled ducks or rabbits ibid. C H A SOUPS and Obfervations on foups and broths - 157 Mock turtle foup 158 Soup a-la-reine 159 Soup and bouillie 160 Beef broth - ibid. Strong beef broth to keep 161 Beef drink - ibid. Mutton broth - ibid. Portable foup - 162 Gravy foup - ibid. White foup - 163 Soup maigre - ibid. Scotch barley broth 164. Soupe au bourgeois ibid. Soupe Lorraine 165 Cheftnut foup - ibid. Partridge foup - 166 Vermicelli foup ibid. Soup creflu - 167 Hare foup - ibid. Giblet foup - j68 Almond foup - ibid. Maccaroni foup - 169 Cow-heel toup - ibid. Ox-cheek foup ibid. Onion fauce 154 Lobfter fauce ibid. Sauce for carp *55 Cod’s head fauce ibid. Egg fauce .156 Shrimp fauce ibid. Anchovy fauce ibid. Oyfter fauce for fifh ibid. Celery fauce *57 Mulhroom fauce ibid. . XIII. BROTHS. Green peas foup 170 White peas foup .* 7 * Common peas foup ibid. Peas foup for winter 172 Soup de Sante ibid. Soup de Sante the Englifh way *73 Onion foup ibid. White onion foup .*74 Hop-top foup ibid. Afparagus foup ibid. Plum porridge for Chrift- mas ibid. Hodge-podge *75 Milk foup 176 Milk foup the Dutch way ibid. Rice foup ibid. Turnip foup ibid. Egg foup *77 Craw-fifh foup ibid. Fifh gravy 178 Oyfter foup ibid. Eel foup 179 Muflel foup ibid. Skate foup ?8o CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. XIV. ROOTS and VEGETABLES. Obfervations on dreffing Cauliflowers 185 roots and vegetables 181 Afparagus ibid. Cabbages ibid. Afparagus forced in Turnips ibid. French rolls 186 Potatoes 182 Parfnips ibid. Scolloped potatoes ibid. Broccoli ibid. Spinach ibid. Wind for beans 187 Spinach and eggs 183 Green Peas ibid. Carrots 184 Peas Francoife ibid. French beans ibid. Endive ragooed 188 French beans ragooed ibid. Farce-meagre cabbage 189 French beans ragooed with a force iSS c H A P. XV. # P u D D I N G S. Obfervations on makin O' tD Ipfwich almond pudding 196 puddings 189 Duke of Buckingham’s Steak pudding 190 pudding ibid. Calf’s foot pudding ibid. Duke of Cumberland’s Yorkfhire pudding 191 pudding ibid . Hunting pudding ibid. Herb pudding ibid. Marrow pudding ibid. Spinach pudding ibid. Plum pudding boiled ibid. Cream pudding 197 Oxford puddings 192 Vermicelli pudding ibid. Cuftard pudding ibid. Rice puddings ' - ibid. Sweetmeat pudding ibid. Flour hafty pudding 198 Prune pudding *93 Fine haify pudding *99 Orange pudding ibid. Millet pudding ibid. A fecond fort ibid. Apricot pudding ibid. A third fort ibid. Quaking pudding ibid. Bifcuit pudding *94 Oat pudding baked 200 Lemon pudding ibid. An oatmeal pudding after Sago pudding , J 95 the New England man¬ Almond pudding ibid. ner ibid. a T rail' C O N T Tranfparent pudding 200 French barley pudding ibid. Potatoe pudding 201 Carrot pudding ibid. A fecond carrot pudding 202 Suet pudding boiled ibid. Veal fuet pudding ibid. Cabbage pudding ibid. Pith pudding - ibid. Citron pudding ibid. Lady Sunderland’s pud¬ dings - 203 Bread pudding - ibid. Baked bread pudding 204 Prune pudding - 205 A fpoonful pudding ibid. Tanfey pudding ibid. White puddings in (kins 206 Quince, apricot, or white pear-plum pudding ibid. Cowflip pudding ibid. Pearl barley pudding ibid. ENTS. French barley pudding 207 Cheftnut pudding ibid. Sweetmeat pudding ibid, Bread and butter pud¬ ding - ibid. Cheefe curd puddings 208 Apple pudding - ibid. Apple dumplins 209 Goofebefry pudding ibid. Suet dumplins with currants - ibid. Rafpberry dumplins ibid. Pennyroyal dumplins ibid. Yeft dumplins - 210 Norfolk dumplins ibid. Hard dumplins - ibid. Batter pudding - ibid. Batter pudding without /ggs - 211 Grateful pudding ibid. Ratafia pudding ibid , CHAP. XVI. PIES. Observations on making P»es - 212 Different kinds of pafte for tarts, pies, &c ibid. Lamb or veal pie 214 Savory veal pie - ibid. Beef (leak pie - ibid. Ox cheek pie - ibid. Calf’s foot pie - 215 Mutton pie - ibid. Venifon pafly - ibid. Savory veal pie 216 Ham pie » ibid. Calf 5 s head pie - 217 Goofe pie - ibid. Yorkfiiire goofe pie 218 Yorkfhire giblet pie 219 Common giblet pie ibid. Duck pie ibid. Pigeon pie 220 Savory chicken pie ibid. A hare .pie ibid. A rabbit pie to be eaten hot ibid. A partridge pie to be eaten not 221 A ditto to be eaten cold ibid. A woodcock pie to be eaten cold 222 Savory patties ibid. 5 Chefhire CONTENTS. Chefhire pork pie' 223 ibid. Sweet egg pie 2 20 French pie Orange or lemon tarts 231 ibid . Devonihire fquab pie 224. Tart d.e moi Apple pie ibid . Skirret pie ibidi Apple tart 225 Turbot pie 232 ibid. Codlin pie ibid. Tench pie Potatoe pie ibid. Trout pie ibid. Artichoke pie 226 Eel pie ibid. Onion pie ibid. Carp pie 333 ibid. Cherry pie 227 Sait-fi/li pic Mince pie ibid. Sole pie - 334 Lent mince pie 228 Flounder pie ibid. Yorkfhire Chriftmas pie ibid. Herring pie ibid. Shropfhire pie 229 Salmon pie 235 Fine patties ibid. Lobfter pie * ibidt Olive pie Egg pie 230 ibid. MulTe! pie ibid>. CHAP. XVII. PANCAKES and FRITTERS. Cream pancakes 236 Rice fritters 339 ibidi Milk pancakes ibid. Carrot fritters Rice pancakes ibid. German fritters 240 Cuftard fritters 2 37 Bilboquet fritters ibid. Common fritters ibid.. Point de jour fritters * ibid. Fine fritters ibid. Chicken fritters 24 r White fritters ibid. Hafty fritters ibid. A quire of paper 2 3 S ripple fritters 242 Almond fraze Curd fritters ibid. Fritters royal ibid. Skirret fritters ibid . Currant fritters without Syringed fritters ibid . eggs _ - 2 39 V ine-leaf fritters 3-43 Rafpberry fritters Ta#fey fritters ibid, ibid■ Clary fritters ibid , PART CONTENTS P A R T II. c H A / P. I. P I c K LING. Obfervations on pickling 244 Berberries 258 Pepper 245 Radifh pods ibid. Ginger ibid. Beet roots ibid. Cloves ibid. Parfley pickled green 259 Nutmegs and Mace 246 Elder buds ibid. Cinnamon ibid. Elder fhoots ibid. All-fpice ibid. Nafturtium 260 Turmerick 24.7 Grapes ibid. Sugar ' - ibid. Cauliflowers 261 Oil t - ibid. Red cabbage ibid. Common vinegar 248 Indian pickle, or picca- Elder flower vinegar ibid. lillo ibid. Goofeberry vinegar ibid. Truflles 262 Tarragon vinegar 249 Morells ibid. Sugar vinegar ibid. Chyan pepper ibid. Walnut catchup ibid. Mufhrooms ibid. Mufhroom catchup 25° Artichokes 262 Mufliroom powder ibid. Artichoke bottoms kJ 264 Lemon pickle 2 5 l Onions ibid. Cucumbers ibid. Soy ibid. Cucumbers in flices 252 Caveacb, or pickled Walnuts pickled black ibid. mackerel 26c Walnuts pickled white 253 Indian bamboo imitated J ibid. Walnuts pickled of an A fparag us ibid. olive colour } 5 \ Ox palates 266 Walnuts pickled green ibid. Samphire ibid. Kidney beans 255 Red currants 267 Mangoes ibid. Smelts ibid. Codlins 256 Anchovies ibid. Golden pippins ibid. Oyilers, cockles, and Gerkins 257 muifels 268 Peaches, ne&arines, and apricots ibid. CHAP, CONTENTS CHAP. II. COLLARING. Obfervations on collar¬ ing To collar beef -- breaft of veal - breait of mutton —- Calf’s head 269 ibid. 270 ibid. 271 To collar pig -- venifon - - eels —— falmon ■ ■■■ — mackerel 271 272 ibid. 273 ibid. CHAP. III. POTTING. itions on potting 274 To pot hares . 279 marble veal ibid. -herrings ibid. geefe and turkies 27 < —-chars ibid. tongues ibid. .eels ibid. beef 276 - ■ lampreys 280 another method 277 - fmelts ibid. cold beef ibid. «■- —— pike ibid. fmall birds ibid. -lobfters 281 pigeons 278 -lhrimps ibid. woodcocks ibid. -falmon ibid. moor game ibid. To make bullace cheefe 282 venifon ibid. c H A P. IV. The Preparation */HAMS, BACON, &c. e bacon 282 To cure New England Weflphalia bacon 284 hams 2^6 hams ibid. •-— vVeliphalia hams ibid. hams the York- ---mutton hams ibid. way 285 —-veal hams 287 a 3 To CONTENTS. To cure beef hams 287 ——- tongues ibid. • -hung beef ibid. ■——-- Dutch beef 288 --pickled pork ibid. To make mock brawn 289 • -—r faufages ibid. Bologna faufages 290 1 / To make hog’s puddings with almonds ■- hog’s puddings with currants ibid. -black puddings 291 Turkey foufed in imita¬ tion of fturgeon 292 Soufed tripe - ibid. Pig’s feet and ears foufed ibid. CHAP. V. To hep GARDEN STUFFS and FRUITS. Observations on keeping To dry artichoke bot- garden fluffs and fruits 293 toms - 295 To keep Fre itch beans To keep walnuts ibid. all the year - ibid. To bottle green currants 296 grapes - 294 To keep mufbrooms ibid. ~— -green peas till To bottle cranberries 297 Chriftmas - ibid. ~-—— damfcns ibid. ——— goofeberries ibid. A PAR T CONTENTS. PART III. CONFECTIONARY IN GENERAL CHAP. I. The PREPARATION of SUGARS. To clarify fugar 298 Fourth degree, called Firft degree, called fmooth crackled fugar 299 or candy fugar ibid . Fifth degree, called Car¬ Second degree, called mel fugar ibid. blown fugar Third degree, called fea¬ 299 Little devices in fugar Sugar of refes in various 300 thered fugar ibid. figures ibid. 9 C H A P. II. TAR T S and PUFFS, Different forts of tarts 3 00 Angelica tarts 394 Currants, cherries, goofe- Spinach tarts ibid. berry, and apricot tarts 302 Petit patties ibid. Rhubaib tarts ibid. Curd puffs ibid, Rafpberry tarts with Sugar puffs .395 cream ibid. Wafers - ibid. Almond tarts ibid. Chocolate puffs ibid. Green almond tarts ibid. Almond puffs - ibid. Orange tarts 3 ° 3 Lemon puffs 3°6 Chocolate tarts ibid. a 4 CHAP. CONTENTS k.. CHAP. III. CAKES. Obfervations on the mak¬ Portugal cakes 312 ing of cakes 306 Shrewfbury cakes ibid. A rich cake 3 ° 7 Saffron cakes 3 } 3 Plum cake ibid. Pruffian cakes ibid. White plum cakes 3 ? 8 Apricot cakes - ibid. A pound cake ibid. Quince cakes 3 H Rice cakes ibid. Orange cakes ibid. Cream cakes 3°9 Lemon cakes ibid. Macaroons ibid. Bride cakes 315 Lemon bifeuits ibid. Little fine cakes ibid. French bifeuits 3 10 Snow balls 316 Sponge bifeuits ibid. Little plum cakes ibid. Drop bifeuits ibid. Ratafia cakes ibid . Spanifh bifeuits 3 ? 1 Nuns cakes 317 Common bifeuits ibid. Seed cakes ibid. Gingerbread cakes ibid. Queen cakes ibid. Green caps ibid. Currant cakes . - 31S Black caps ibid. Whigs ibid. Bath cakes 312 Icings for cakes ibid. CHAP, IV. CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. Obfervations on making Cheefecakes - 321 cuftards and chcefe- Citron cheefecakes ibid. cakes - 319 Lemon cheefecakes 322 Baked cuftards - ibid. Almond cheefecakes ibid. Almond cuftards 320 Curd cheefecakes ibid. Plain cuftards - ibid. Bread cheefecakes ibid. Orange cuftards ibid. Rice cheefecakes 323 Lemon cuftards 321 . Fine cheefecakes N ibid. Beeft cuftards - ibid . CHAP CONTENTS. CHAP. V. CREAMS and JAMS. Steeple cream 324 Rafpberry cream 328 Piftachio cream ibid. Chocolate cream ibid. Hartlhorn cream ibid. Whipt cream ibid. Burnt cream 325 Pompadour cream ibid. Barley cream ibid. Snow and cream 329 Ice cream ibid. Cream cheefe ibid. A trifle 326 Goofeberry jam ibid » Tea cream ibid. Apricot jam ibid. Ratafia cream 327 Strawberry jam 33 ° Spanifh cream ibid. White rafpberry jam ibid. Lemon cream ibid. Red rafpberry jam ibid. Orange cream ibid. Black currant jam 33 E C H A P. VI. JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. Blanc mange 33 1 Green melon in flum¬ Orange jelly 332 mery 337 Fruit in jelly ibid. Solomon’s temple in flum¬ Calf’s-feet jelly 333 mery ibid. A turkey in jelly ibid. Eggs and bacon in flum¬ Golden fifh in jelly 334 mery 338 Black currant jelly ibid. A hedge-hoo- D O ibid. Red currant jelly ibid. Savory jelly 339 Ribband jelly 335 Solid fyllabubs ibid,. Hen and chickens in jelly ibid. Syllabub under the cow ibid „ Hartfhorn jelly 33 6 Whipt fyllabub ibid. Flummery ibid. Lemon fyllabub 34 ° French flummery 337 Everlalting fyllabub ibid. C H A P. VII. PRES E R V I N G. Obfervations on preferv- To preferve rafpberries 313 ing 34 i --currants 344 , To preferve goofeberries 342 —--green codlins 345 2 lo CONTENTS. To preferve golden pip- To preferve lemons 349 pins 345 - oranges ibid. —--— g^pes ibid. -- ftraw.berries 350 - walnuts ibid. - pine apples - ibid. --- cucumbers 347 --fc— berberries 351 —-green gage plums 348 -quinces 352 ---damfons ibid. .-peaches ibid. *-morello cherries ibid. --— apricots ibid. ' - C H A P. VIII. D R Y I N G and CANDYING. Obfervations on drying Orange chips 35 6 and candying - 353 Green gage plums dried ibid. Candied caifia ibid. Cherries dried 35 7 Orange marmalade • ibid. Damfons dried ibid. Apricot marmalade - 354 Apricots dried ibid. Tranfparent marmalade ibid. Peaches dried 358 Quince marmalade ibid. Ginger candied- ibid. Rafpberry pafle .355 Lemon and orange-peel Currant pufte ibid. candied ibid. Goofeberry pafte - ibid. Angelica candied 359 Burnt almonds 35^ C H A P. IX. ELEGANT ORNAMENTS for a GRAND ENT E R . T A I N M E N T. Floating ifland 359 Moonfhine 361 Chinefe temple or obe- A difh of fnow ibid . lift 36° Artificial fruit 362 Defert ifland ibid. V Xnstrc- CONTENTS Instructions for carving Poultry^ Game, &c. To cut up turkies - 362 To wing partridges or quails - ibid. To allay pheafants or teals ibid. Toliftfwans - ibid. To difplay cranes - ibid. To difmember herns 364 To thigh woodcocks 364 Toreargeefe ibid, To unbrace mallards or ducks Hid. To unlace rabbits ibid. To cut up a hare 365 Fowls 366 Directions for carving different Joints of Meat » Haunch-bone of beef 367 Ox tongue - ibid. Sirloin of beef - 368 Brifket of beef - ibid. Buttock of beef - ibid. Breaft of veal - ibid. Knuckle of veal - 369 Calf’s head - ibid. Fillet of veal - ibid. Leg of mutton . 3 ?° Shoulder of mutton ibid Saddle of mutton 37 1 Fore quarter of lamb ibid. Sparerib of pork ibid . Hams 3 7 2 Roafted pig ibid: Haunch of venifon - ibid. Fifh Hid, PART’ CONTENTS; l P A R • T IV. MADE WINES, CORDIAL WATERS, and MALT LI Q_U O R S. C H MADE Obfervations on made wines .374 Blackberry wine ibid. Goofeberry wine 375 Pearl goofeberry wine ibid. Damfon wine 37 b Orange wine ibid. Lemon wine 377 Currant wine ibid • Raifin wine . 3 ? 8 Grape wine ibid. Cherry wine ibid. Rafpberry wine ibid. Apricot wine 379 Plum wine ibid. Mulberry wine ibid. Walnut wine 38° Quince wine ibid. Clary wine ibid. Birch wine 381 Cowflip wine 382. P. I. WINES. Turnip wine - 382 Elder wine - ibid. Rofe wine - 383 Barley wine - 384 Englifh fig wine - ibid. Ginger wine - ibid. Sycamore wine - 385 Mead wine - ibid. Balm wine . - 387 Mountain wine - 388 Cyprus wine - ibid. Frontiniac wine - ibid. Englifh Champagne ibid. SaragofTa wine, or Eng¬ lifh fack - 389 Palermo wine - ibid. Vino Pontificalo - ibid. Rafpberrv brandy - 390 Black cherry brandy ibid. Lemon brandy - ibid. Orange brandy - ibid . CHAP. CONTENTS. C H A CORDIAL Obfervations on cordial waters 39 1 ibid. Stag’s heart water Cordial water Angelica water . 39 * ibid. Peppermint water ibid. Milk water 393 Rofe water ibid. Cordial poppy water ibid. Penny-royal water ibid. Treacle water 394 C H A M A L T L Ufeful hints for the pre¬ paration of coppers 398 Diredfions concerning the coolers - 401 Cautions to be obferved refpedting the rnafh- tub - 404 General diredtions for brewing - 405 Mafliing - 406 Boiling - ibid. How properly to work malt liquor - 408 Tunning - 410 The proper months for brewing - ibid , P. II. WATERS. Lavender water - 395 Walnut water - ibid. Aqua mirabilis - ibid. Black cherry water 396 Surfeit water - ibid. Hyfterical water - ibid. Orange or lemon water 397 Imperial water - ibid. Spirits of wine - ibid. Fever water - 398 P. III. I Q,U O R S. The neceffity of having good cellaring - 411 Proper water for brew¬ ing - 412 The management of fmall beer An The nature and proper¬ ties of brown and pale malt - 414 The choice and manage¬ ment of hops - 416 The qualities of yeft ibid. The bottling; of malt liquors - 417 A P P E N- CONTENTS. \ APPENDIX. / SEC T I O N I. Csnfiderations w CULINARY POISONS, I he nature of copper and earthen utenfils for the ufe of the kitchen 420 The nature and proper¬ ties x>f muflirooms 424 ——— of Email hemlock 425 The nature and proper¬ ties of the common laurel - 425 —--- of the bay* or laurel of the ancients 426 SECTION II. Confide ratio ns on the Adulterations of BREAD and FLOUR, &c. To dete£I the adultera¬ tions of flour - 427 To make white bread in the London manner 428 To make leaven bread ibid. SECTION III. Proper Nourifnments for the SICK. Mutton broth - 432 Beef tea - 433 Beef broth - 422 Veal broth - ibid. Mince To make French bread 429 - oat-cakes and muffins To preferve yeft 43° 4 P c 0 1 N T ENTS. Mince veal 433 To boil partridges 436 Pork broth 434 -—> plaice or flounders 1 437 Pulled chickens ibid. Brown caudle ibid . Chicken broth ibid. White caudle ibid. Chicken water 435 Water gruel ibid. Bread foup ibid. Panada 43 8 Buttered water ibid. Ifinglafs jelly ibid. Seed water 436 Salop ibid . Barley water ibid. Artificial afles milk ' ibid. To boil pigeons ibid . SECTION IV. NeceJJary Articles for SEAFARING PERSONS, Pickled mufhrooms for Directions fox fteeping fea-fervice - 439 dried hfh - 441 Catchup - 4 - 4 ° Dried falmon - 443 Fifn fauce ibid. Dried herrings - ibid-. s E C T ION V, *» General Obfervations on the BREEDING op POULTRY, The proper management of cocks and hens - 443 The management of ducks 444 Directions for keeping geefe - ibid. Howto manage turkies 444 Pigeons and rabbits - 445 To cure diforders incident to poultry - ibid. A Catad CONTENTS. i A Catalogue of Garden Stuffs , Poultry , and Fijb> in Sea - . fon in the different Months of the Tear - 447 A marketing table. By the pound - 452 A marketing table. By the {tone - *- 453 A table to call up expences, or wages - 454 A table to caft up expences or wages by the day, week, month, or year - - - 455 \ T H b V ' . Second Course / Second Course Second Course Second Coa rse y Bill of 'Bore /or CLuauot. Fii'st Course- Second Course 4 \ Second Course \ SlU.of tS'ccre for (Pctoiesr. First Course Second Course •* % V I * Second Course L Second Course THE 7 ■x L O N D O ART OF COOKERY. PART I. Cookery./)/ general. INTRODUCTION. I N the early ages of the world, people lived on fruits and vegetable productions, as they fuc- ceeded each other in their peculiar feafons, and Nature was their only cook. The produce of the earth, trees, and hedges, in thofe days, fupplied the inhabitants with both food and faucej for the ftudied embellifhments of art were then totally unknown. A healthful and vigorous conftitu- tion, moderate exercife, a wholefome and odori¬ ferous air, and a mind undifturbed with difap- pointed ambition, or the'anxious cares of avarice, conftantly fupplied them with that appetite, the want of which is fo much complained of in thele B days 2 INTRODUCTION. days of luxury and refinement. The decays of nature in the expiring periods of life, were the only infirmities to which people were then liable; and though their limbs fometimes failed to per¬ form their offices, their health and appetite con¬ tinued with them till life was no more. In this rude, but natural Rate, the food of mankind is faid to have continued upwards of two thoufand years, during which period the cook and phyfician were equally unknown. It is not eafy to fay at what period man ex¬ changed vegetable for animal diet; but certain it is, that he no fooner began to feed on flefh, fowl, and fifh, than feafonings of fome kind became requifite, not only to render fuch food the more pleafing and palatable, but alfo to help digeftion and' prevent putrefafiion. Of thefe feafonings, fait was probably the firft difcovered; though fome are inclined to think, that favory roots and herbs were firft in ufe. Spices, however, fuch as ginger, cinnamon, pepper, cloves, and nutmegs, by degrees came into practice, and the whole art of cookery gradually improved, till it reached its prefent height of perfection. Boiling, or dewing, feems to have been the firft mode of dreffing in the early periods of culinary invention ; roafting, or broiling, fucceeded next, and beyond thefe, no improvements were made in the art of cookery for feveral centuries. The intro- INTRODUCTION. 3 introduction of trade and commerce into Europe, foon made. us acquainted with the products of other countries; and rich fruits and fpices, which the winds wafted to us from the remoteft regions of the globe, were foon fought after with fond- nefs and avidity. Cookery, pickling, and the various branches of confectionary, foon became an art, and was as methodically ftudied as the politer fciences. A regular apprenticefhip is now ferved to it, and the profeffors of it are incorpo¬ rated by charter, as forming one of the livery companies of London. Since then cookery mud be confidered as an art, we fhall proceed to treat of its different branches in regular order, and begin with giving proper directions for marketing. B 2 CHAP** 4 MARKETING. CHAP. I. Directions for the proper Choice of different Kinds of Provijions. Beef I N the choice of ox-beef, obferve, that, if the meat be young, it will have a fine fmooth open grain, of a pleafing carnation red, and very tender; the fat muft be rather white, than yellow; for when it is quite yellow, the meat is feldom good; the fuet muft be perfectly white. The grain of cow-beef is clofer, the fat. whiter than that of ox-beef, but the lean has not fo bright a red. The grain of bull-beef is ftill clofer, the fat hard and fkinny, the lean of a deep red, and Jias a ftronger fmell than either cow or ox-beef. Mutton . IF you fqueeze young mutton with your fingers, it will feel very tender; but if it be old, it will feel hard, and continue wrinkled, and the fat will be fibrous and clammy. The grain of ram mutton is clofe, the flefti is of a deep red, and the fat is fpongy. The fiefh of ewe-mutton is paler than that of the weather, and the grain is clofer. Mod people give the preference to ihort-fhanked mutton. Lamb. THE head of a lamb is good, if the eyes are bright and plump; but if they are funk and wrinkled, it is ft ale. If the vein in the neck of the fore-quarter appear of a fine blue, it is frefh; but if it be green or yellow, you may be fure it is ftale. In the hind-quarter, if there be a faint difagreeable fmell near the kidney, or if the knuckle be very limber, it is not good. , Veal. T FI E flefti of a cow-calf is whiter than that of a bull, but the flefti is not fo firm; the fillet of the former is generally preferred, on account of the udder; if the head be frefh, the eyes will be plump; but if ftale, they will MARKETING. 5 will be funk and wrinkled. If the vein in the fhoulder be not of a bright red, the meat is not frefh; and if there be any green or yellow fpots in it, it is very bad. A good neck and bread; will be white and dry; but if they be clammy, and look green or yellow at the upper end, they are ftale. The kidney is the fooneft apt to taint in the loin, and if it be ftale, it will be foft and flimy. A leg is good, if it be firm and white; but bad, if it be limber, and the fiefti flabby, with green or yellow lpots. Pork. MEASLY pork is very dangerous to eat; but this ftate of it is eafily difcovered, by the fat being full of little kernels. If it be young, the lean will break on being pinched, and the fkin will dent, by nipping it with the fingers; the fat, like lard, will be foft and pulpy. If the rind be thick, rough, and cannot be nipped with the fingers, it is old. If the flefh be cool and fmooth, it is frefh; but if it be clammy, it is tainted; and, in this cafe, the knuckle part will always be the worft. Hams. THOSE are the beft which have the fhorteft ihank. If you put a knife under the bone of a ham, and if it come out clean, and fmell well, it is good; but if it be daubed and fmeared, and has a difagreeable fmell, be fure not to buy it. Bacon. IF bacon be good, the fat will feel oily, and look white, and the lean will be of a good colour, and ftick clofe to the bone; but it is, or will be rufty very foon, if there be any yellow ftreaks in the lean. The rind of young bacon is always thin ; but thick, if old. Brawn. THE rind of old brawn is thick and hard; but young, if moderate. The rind and fat of barrow and low brawn are very tender. 6 MARKETING. $ Venijon. THE fat of venifon muft, in a great meafure, de¬ termine your choice of it. If the fat be thick, bright, and clear, the clefts fmooth and clofe, it is young; but a very wide tough cleft, fhews it is old. Venifon will firft change at the haunches and (boulders: run in a knife, and you will judge of its newnefs or ftalenefs, by its fweet or rank fmell. If it be tainted, it will look greenifh, or inclining to be very black. Turkies. IF a cock-turkey be young, it will have a fmootb black leg, with a fhort fpur; the eyes will be full and bright, and the feet limber and moift; but you muft carefully obferve, that the fpurs are not cut or fcraped to deceive you. When a turkey is ftale, the feet are dry, and the eyes funk. The fame rule will determine, whether a hen-turkey be fre(h or ftale, young or old; with this difference, that if fhe is old, her legs will be rough and red; if with egg, the vent will be loft and open; but if (lie has no eggs, the vent will be hard. Cocks and Hens. THE fpurs of a young cock are fhort; but the fame precaution will be as neceffary here, in that point, as ]uft obferved in the choice of turkies. Their vents will be open, if they are ftale; but clofe and hard, if frefh. Hens are always beft when full of eggs, and juft before they begin to lay. The combs and legs of an old hen are rough ; but fmooth when young. The comb of a good capon is very pale, its breaft is peculiarly fat, and it has a thick belly, and a large rump. Geeje. A yellow bill and feet, with but few hairs upon them, are the marks of a young goofe; but thefe are red when old. The feet will be limber, if it be frefh, but ftiff and dry, if old. Green geefe are in feafon from May or June, till they are three months old. A ftubble goofe will be good till it be five or fix months old, and 2 fhould MARKETING. 7 fhould be picked dry; but green geefe fhould be Raided. The fame rules will hold good for wild geefe, with re- Ipedt to their, being young or old. Ducks . TRIE legs of a frefh-killed duck are limber; and if it be fat, its belly will be hard and thick. The feet of a ftale duck are dry and Riff. The feet of a tame duck are inclining to a dufky yellow, and are thick. The feet of a wild duck are fmaller than a tame one, and are of a reddifh colour. Ducks muft be picked dry; but ducklings fhould be Raided. Pheajants. THESE very beautiful birds are of the Englifh cock and hen kind, and are of a fine flavour. The cock has fpurs, which the hen has not, and the hen is moft valued when with egg. The fpurs of a young cock pheafant are fhort and blunt, or round; but if he be old, they are long and fharp. If the vent of the hen be open and green, fhe is ftale; and when rubbed hard with the finger, the fit in will peel. If fhe be with egg, the vent will be foft. JVlodcocks. A woodcock is a bird of paflage, and is found with us only in the winter. They are beft about a fortnight or three weeks after their firft appearance, when they have refted after their long paflage over the ocean. If they be fat, they will feel firm and thick, which is a proof of their good condition. Their vent will be alfo thick and hard, and a vein of fat will run by the fide of the bread; but a lean one will feel thin in the vent. If it be newly killed, its feet will be limber, and the head and throat clean ; but the contrary, if ftale. Partridges. AUTUMN is the feafon for partridges, when, if young, the legs will be yeilowfth, and the bill of a dark colour. If they are frefh, the vent will be firm ; but if ftale, it will look greenifh, and the fkin will peel when B 4 rubbed 8 MARKETING. rubbed with the finger. If they be old, the bill will be white, and the legs blue. Bujiards. THE fame rules given for the choice of the turkey, will hold good with refpedt to this curious bird. Pigeons. THESE birds are full and fat at the vent, and Timber-Tooted, when new; but if the toes are harfh, the vent loofe, open and green, they are ftale. If they be old, their legs will be large and red. The tame pigeon is preferable to the wild, and fhould be large in the body, fat and tender; but the wild pigeon is not fo fat. Wood-pigeons are larger than wild pigeons, but in other refpedts like them. The fame rules will hold good in the choice of the plover, fieldfare, thrufh, lark, black¬ bird, &c. Hares, B O T PI the age and frefhnefs of a hare are to be confidered in the choice of it. When old, the claws are blunt and rugged, the ears dry and tough, and the cleft wide and large ; but, on the contrary, if the claws be fmooth and fharp, the ears tear eafilv, and the cleft in the lip be not much fpread, it is young. The body will be ft iff, and the fiefh pale, if newly killed; but, if the fiefh be turning black, and the body limber, it is ftale; though hares are not always confidered as the worfe, for being kept till they fmell a little. The prin¬ cipal diftindtion between a hare and a leveret is, that the leveret fhould have a knob, or fmall bone, near the foot, on its fore-leg, which a hare has not. Rabbit s. THE claws of an old rabbit are very rough and long, and grey hairs are intermixed with the wool ■, but the wool and claws are fmooth, when young. If it be ftale, it will be limber, and the fiefh will look blueifh, with a kind of fiime upon it: but it will be ftiff, and the fiefh white and dry, if frefh. Fifi. MARKETING. 9 Fijh. THE general rules for difcovering whether fifli be frefh or dale, are by obferving the colour of their gills, which fhould be of a lively red; whether they be hard or eafy to be opened, the (landing out or finking in of their eyes, their fins being faff or limber, or by fmelling to their gills. Filh taken in running water are always better than thofe taken from ponds. ‘Turbot. IF a turbot be good, it will be thick and plump, and the belly of a yellowilh white; but they are not good, if they appear thin and biueifh. Turbot are in feafon the greater part of the fummer, and are generally caught in the German and Britifh ocean. 1 ' s Soles. GOOD foies are thick and firm, and the belly of a fine cream-colour j but they are not good, if they be flabby, or incline to a blueiih white. Midfummer is their principal feafon. Lobjlers. IF a lobfter be frefh, the tail will be did*, and pull up with a fpring; but if it be dale, the tail will be flabby, and have no fpring in it. This rule, however, concerns lobders that are boiled; and it is much better to buy them alive, and boil them yourfelf, taking care that they are not fpent by too long keeping. If they have not been long taken, the claws will have a quick and (Irong motion upon fqueezing the eyes, and the heavied are edeemed the bed. The cock-lobder is known by the narrow back part of his tail. The two uppermod fins within his tail, are diffi and hard; but thofe of the hen are foft, and the tail broader. The male, though generally fmaller than the female, has the higher flavour, the fleih firmer, and the body of a redder colour, when boiled. Sturgeon. THE flefh of a good durgeon is very white, with a few blue veins, the grain even, the (kin tender, good- coloured. IO MARKETING. coloured, and foft. All the veins and griftles Ihould be blue; for when thefe are brown or yellow, the fkin harfh, tough, and dry, the fifh is bad. It has a pleafant' fmell when good, but a very difagreeable one when bad. It fhould alfo cut firm without crumbling. The females are as full of roe as our carp, which is taken out and fpread upon a table, beat fiat, and .fprinkled with fait; it is then dried in the air and fun, and after¬ wards in ovens. It fhould be of a reddifii brown colour, and very dry. This is called caviare, and is eaten with oil and vinegar. Cod. A cod fhould be very thick at the neck, the flefh very white and firm, and of a bright clear colour, and the gills red. When they be flabby, they are not good. They are in feafon from Chriftmas to Lady-day. Skate. THIS fifh fhould be very white and thick. When they are too frefh, they eat tough; and if dale,* they have a very difagreeable fmell, fo.that fome judgment is required to drefs them in proper time. Herrings. THE gills of a frefh herring are of a fine red, their eyes full, and the whole filh {tiff and very bright ; but if the gills are of a faint colour, the fifh limber and wrinkled, they are bad. The goodnefs of pickled her¬ rings is known by their being fat, fiefhy, and white. Good red herrings are large, firm, and dry. They fhould be full of roe or melt, and the outfide of them of a fine yellow'. Trout. ALL the kinds of this fine frefh-water fifh are ex¬ cellent ; but the belt are thofe that are red and yellow. The female are mod in efteem, and are known by hav¬ ing a fmaller head, and deeper body than the male. They are in high feafon the latter end of June; and their frefhnefs may be known by the rules we have already laid down for that purpofe, concerning other fifh. Tench. MARKETING. ii ! Tench . THIS is alfo. a frefh-water fifh, and is H in feafon in July, Auguft, and September. This fifti fhould be dreffed alive; but if they be dead, examine the gills, which fhould be red, and hard to open, the eyes bright, and the body firm and ftiff, if frefh. Some are covered with a (limy matter, which if clear and bright, is a good fight. Salmon . THE flefh of falmon, when new, is of a fine red, and particularly fo at the gills; the fcales fhould be bright, and the fifh very ftiff. The fpring is the feafon for this fifh; but whether that caught in the Thames, or the Severn, be beft, is a matter of fome difpute. Smelts. WHEN thefe are frefh, they are of a fine filver hue, very firm, and have an agreeable fmell, refembling that of a cucumber. Eels. THE Thames filver eel is generally the moft efteem- ed, and the worft are thofe brought by the Dutch, and fold at Billingfgate market. They fhould be dreffed alive; and they are always in feafon, except during the hot fummer months. Flounders. THIS fifh is found in the fea as well as rivers, and fhould be dreffed alive. They are in feafon from January to March, and from July to September. When frefh, they are ftiff, their eyes bright and full, and their bodies thick. Oyjlers. THE Colchefter, Pyfleet, and Milford oyfters, are efteemed the beft; though the native Milton are reck¬ oned very good, being the fatteft and whiteft. T hey are known to be alive and vigorous when they clofe fail upon the knife, and let go as foon as they are wounded in the body. Prawns . 'll MARKETING. Prawns and Shrimp. THEY have an excellent fmell when in perfection; are firm and ftiff, and their tails turn ftiffly inwards. Their colour is very bright, when frefh; but when ftale, their tails grow limber, the brightnefs of their colour goes off, and they become pale and clammy. Butter. 1 N buying of butter, you mull not truft to the tafte the feller gives you, left they give you a tafte of one lump, and fell you another. In chufing fait butter, truft rather to your fmell than tafte, by putting a knife into it, and applying it to your nofe. If the butter be in a calk, have it unhooped, and thruft in your knife, between the ftaves, into the middle of it; for the top of the calk is fometimes better butter than the middle, owing to artful package. Cheeje. OBSERVE the coat of your cheefe before you purchafe it; for if it be old, with a rough and ragged coat, or dry at top, you may expeCl to find little worms or mites in it. If it be moift, fpongy, or full of holes, it will give reafon to fufpeCt that it is maggotty. When¬ ever yon perceive any perifhed places on the outfide, be fure to probe to the bottom of them; for, though the hole in the coat may be but fmall, the perifhed part within may be confiderable. Eggs. T O judge properly of an egg, put the greater end to your tongue, and if it feel warm, it is new; but if cold, it is ftale; and according to the degree of heat or cold there be in the egg, you will judge of its ftale- nefs or newnefs. Another method is, hold it up againft the fun or a candle, and if the yolk appear round, and the white clear and fair, it is a mark of goodnefs; but if the yolk be broken, and the white cloudy or muddy, the egg is a bad one. Some people, in order to try the goodnefs of an egg, put it into a pan of cold water: the frefher MARKETING. 13 frefiier it is, the fooner it will fink to the bottom; but if it be addled or rotten, it will fwim on the furface of the water. The belt method of preferving eggs, is to keep them in meal or bran; though fome place them in wood-afhes, with their fmall ends downwards. When neceffity obliges you to keep them for any length of time, the beft way will be to bury them in fait, which will preferve them in almoft any climates; but the fooner an egg is ufed, the better it will be. The different Parts of an Ox, &c. BEFORE we conclude this chapter of marketing, it can by no means be improper to make the young cook acquainted with the different pieces, into which butchers cut an ox, a fheep, a calf, a lamb, and a hog. The fore-quarter of an Ox confiffs of the haunch, which includes the clod, marrow-bone, fhin, and the fticking-piece, which is the neck-end. The next is the leg of mutton piece, which has part of the blade-bone; then the chuck, the brilket, the fore ribs, and middle rib, which is called the chuck-rib. The hind-quarter con¬ tains the lirloin and rump, the thin and thick flank, the veiny-piece, and the ifch-bone, or chuck-bone, buttock, and leg.—Befides the quarters, are the head, tongue, and palate j the entrails are the fweet-breads, kidnies, fkirts, and tripe: there are the double, the roll, and the reed-tripe. In a Sheep are the head and pluck, which includes the liver, lights, heart, fweet-breads, and melt. The fore-quarter contains the neck, breaft, and fhoulder; and the hind-quarter, the leg and loin. The two loins toge¬ ther are called a chine, or laddie of mutton, which is a fine joint, when the mutton is fmall and fat. In a Calf, the head and inwards are called the pluck, which contains the heart, liver, lights, nut, and melt, and what they call the fkirts; the throat fvveet-bread, and the wind-pipe fweet-bread, which is the fineft. The fore-quarter is the fhoulder, neck, and bread;; and the hind quarter is the leg, which contains the knuckle, fillet, and loin. In 14 MARKETING. In a Houfe Lamb are the head and pluck, that is, the liver, lights, heart, nut, and melt; and alfo the fry, which confifts of the fweet-breads, lamb-ftones, and fkirts, with fome of the liver. The fore-quarter is the fhoulder, neck, and breaft, together. The hind-quarter is the leg and loin. This is in high feafon at Chriftmas, but lafts all the year. Grafs Lamb comes in about April or May, according to the feafon of the year, and holds good till the middle of Auguft. In a Hog are the head and inwards, that is, thehaflet, which confifts of the liver, crow, kidney, and fkirts; there are alfo the chitterlins and the guts, which are cleanfed for faufages. The fore-quarter is the fore-loin and fpring; if it be a large hog, you may cut off a Ipare-rib. The hind-quarter is only the leg and loin. A Bacon Hog is cut differently, on account of making hams, bacon, and pickled pork. Here you have fine fpare-ribs, chines, and griffins, and fat for hog’s-lard. The liver and crow are much admired, fried with bacon, and the feet and ears are equally good foufed. Pork comes in feafon at Bartholomew-tide, and holds good till the warm weather commences. CHAP. II. DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING, Preliminary Hints and Objervations. T HOUGH the London poulterers trufs every thing before they fend it home, yet it is ablolutely ne- ceffary that every cook fhould know how to perform this bufinefs properly, as it frequently happens, that families take their cooks with them into the country, where they are TRUSSING. 15 are obliged to draw and trufs all kinds of poultry and game themfelves. Let them therefore be careful to attend to this general rule; Take care that all the ftubs are perfectly removed ; and when they draw any kind of poultry or game, they muft be very particular not to break the gall, becaufe it will give the bird a'bitter and difagreeable flavour, which neither walking nor wiping will be able to remove. We lhall now proceed to par¬ ticular rules. Turkies: WHEN you have properly picked your turkey, break the leg-bone clofe to the foot, and draw out the firings from the thigh, for which purpofe you mull put it on a hook fattened againft the wall. Cut off the neck clofe to the back; but be careful to leave the crop fkin fufficien-tly long to turn over to the back. Then pro¬ ceed to take out the crop, and loofen the liver and gut at the throat-end with your middle finger. Then cut off the vent, and take out the gut. With a crooked fharp-pointed iron pull out the gizzard, and the liver will loon follow. Be careful, however, not to break the gall. With a wet cloth wipe out the infide perfectly clean. With a large knife cut the breaft-bone through on each fide clofe to the back, and draw the legs clofe to the crops. Then put a cloth on the breaft, and beat the high bone down with a rolling pin till it lies flat. If the turkey is to be truffled for boiling, cut the legs off; then put your middle finger into the infide, raife the fkin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the turkey. Put a fkewer in the joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the other leg and wing. The liver and giz¬ zard muft be put in the pinions; but take care firft to open the gizzard and take out the filth, and the gall of the liver. Then turn the fmall end of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep them in their places. If the turkey is to be roafted, leave the legs on, put a fkewer in the joint of the wing, tuck the legs clofe up, and put the fkewer through the middle of the leg and body. On the other i6 TRUSSING. fide, put another fkewer in at the fmall part of the leg. Put it clofe on the outfide of the fidefman, and put the fkewer through, and the fame on the other fide. Put the liver and gizzard between the pinions, and turn the point of the pinion on the back. Then put, clofe above the pinions, another fkewer through the body of the turkey. Turkey polts mull; be miffed in the following manner: Take the neck from the head and body, but do not remove the neck fkin. They are drawn in the fame manner as a turkey. Put a fkewer through the joint of the pinion, tuck the legs clofe up, run the fkewer through the middle of the leg, through the body, and fo on the other fide. Cut off the under part of the bill, twill the fkin of the neck round, and put the head on the point of the fkewer, with the bill-end forwards. Another fkewer muff be put in the fidefman, and the legs placed between the fidefman and apron on each fide. Pafs the fkewer through all, and cut off the toe¬ nails. It is very common to lard them on the breafl. The liver and gizzard may or may not be ufed, as you like. Geeje, Having picked and flubbed your goofe clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the firfl joint. Then cut off the neck almofl clofe to the back; but leave the fkin of the neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. With your middle finger loofen the liver and other matters at the breafl end, and cut it open between the vent and the rump. Having done this, draw out all the entrails, excepting the foal. Wipe it out clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breafl-bone flat with a rolling- pin. Put a fkewer into the wing, and draw the legs clofe up. Put the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer in the fmall of the leg, tuck it clofe down to the fidefman, run it through, and do the fame on the other fidfe. Cut qff the end of the vent. TRUSSING. and make a hole large enough for the paffage of the rump, as it holds the feafoning much better by that means. Ducks. DUCKS and geefe are truffed in the fame manner, excepting that the feet are left on the ducks, and are turned clofe to the kgs. Fowls. THEY muft be firft picked very clean, and the neck cut off clofe to the back. Then take out the crop, and with your middle finger loofen the liver and other matters. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the breaft-bone flat with a rolling-pin. If your fowl is to be boiled, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck them down clofe to the leg. Put your finger into the infide, and raife the fkin of the legs then cut a hole in the top of the fkin, and put the legs under. Put a fkewer in the firft joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg clofe to it, put the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body: Do the fame on the other fide. Having opened the gizzard, take out the filth, and the gall out of the liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinions, and turn the point on the back. Remember to tie a firing over the tops of the legs to keep them in their proper place. If your fowl is to be roafted, put a fkewer in the firft joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg clofe to it. Put the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer in the fmall of the kg, and through the fidefman. Do the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer through the fkin of the feet. Y ou muft not forget that the nails are to be cut oft. ' Chickens . THESE muft be picked and drawn in the fame manner as fowls. If the chickens are to be boiled, cin off the nails, give the fineves a nick on each fide of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then put in C - the iB TRUSSING. the rump. Draw the fkin tight over the legs, put a fkewer in the fir ft joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg clofe. Put the fkewer through the middle of the legs, and through the body, and do the fame on the other fide. Clean the gizzard, and take out the gall in the liver; put them into the pinions, and turn the points on the back. If your chickens are to be roafted, cut off the feet, put a fkewer in the firft joint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg clofe. Run the fkewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer into the fidefman, put the legs between the apron and the fidefman, and run the fkewer through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the back, and over the neck, and pull the breaft fkin. Wild Fowl. T FI E direffions we are here giving will anfwer for ail kinds of wild fowl in general. Plaving picked them clean, cut off the neck clofe to the back, and with your middle finger loofen the liver and guts next the breaft. Cut off the pinions at the firft joint, then cut a flit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn the feet clofe to the legs. Put a fkewer into the pinion, pull the legs clofe to the breaft, and run the fkewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion. Firft cut off the vent, and then put the rumu through it. x O Pigeons. YOU muft firft pick them, and cut off the neck clofe to the back. Then take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leave in the liver, for a pigeon has no gall. If your pigeons are to be roafted, cut off the toes, cut a flit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to the pinion, put a fkewer through the pinions, legs, and body, and with the handle of a knife break the breaft fiat. Clean the gizzard, put it in one of 3 the TRUSSING. 19 the pinions, and turn the point on the back. If you intend to make a. pie of them, you mud cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and (tick them in the fides clofe to the pinions. If they are to be ftewed or boiled, they muff be done in the fame manner. Woodcocks and Snipes. THESE birds are very tender to pick, efpecially if they be not quite frefn. They mult therefore be handled as little as poffiDle; for even the heat of the hand will fometimes puli off the lkin, when the beauty of your bird will be deftroyed. When you have picked them clean, cut the pinions of the .firft joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breaft-bone fiat. Turn the legs clofe to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the thighs clofe to the pinions, put a Ikewer into the pinion, and run it through the thighs, body, and the other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the Ikewer, with the bill clofe to the bread:. Woodcocks, lnipes, or plovers, are truffed in the fame manner, but muff never be drawn. Larks , Wheat-ears , &c. WPIEN you have picked them clean, cut off their heads, and the pinions at the firft joint. Beat the breaft- bone flat with the handle of a knife, turn the feet dole to the legs, and put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a fkewer through the middle of the bodies of as many as you mean to drefs. They tnuft be tied on the fpit. Pheafants and Partridges. PICK them very clean, cut a flit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, and loofen the liver and gut next the bread: with your fore-finger, then cut off the vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the firft joint, and wipe out the infide with the pinion you have cut off; for you never need pick thefe birds beyond the firft joint of the pinion. With a rolling-pin beat the breaft-bone flat, put a fkewer in the pinion, and bring C 2 the 20 TRUSSING. the middle of the legs clofe. Then run the fkewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion; bring the head, and put it on the end of the fkewer, the bill fronting the break. Put another fkewer into the fidef- man, and put the legs clofe on each fide the apron, and then run the fkewer through all. You muft leave the beautiful feathers on the head of the cock pheafant, and put paper to prevent the bad effects of the fire. You muft alfo fave the long feathers in the tail to flick in the rump when roafted. In the fame manner are muffed all kinds of moor game. If they are to be boiled, put the legs in the manner as in muffing a fowl for boiling. o o o Hares . HAVING cut oft' the four legs at the firft joint, raife the fkin of the back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail whole, draw the fkin over the back, and flip out the fore legs. Cut the fkin oft' the neck and head; but take care to leave the ears on, and mind to fkin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c. but be fure to take the gut out of the vent. Cut the finews that lie under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore legs, put a fkewer through the hind leg, then through the fore leg under the joint, run it through the body, and do the fame on the other fide. Put another fkewer through the thick part of the hind legs and body, put the head between the fhoulders, and run a fkewer through to keep it in its place. Put a fkewer in each ear to make them Hand ereci, and tie a firing round the middle of the body over the legs to keep them in their place. You may trufs a young fawn in the fame manner, only mind to cut oil' the cars. Rabbits. RABBITS are to be cafed in the fame manner as hares, only obferve to cut oft'the ears clofe to the head. Cut the vent open, and flit the legs about an inch upon each fide the rump. Make the hind legs lie flat* and bring the ends to the fore legs. Put a fkewer in the hind leg, then in the fore leg, and through the body. 8 Bring o 21 Bring the head round, and put it on the fkewer. If you want to roaft two together, trufs them at full length, with fix fkewers 'run through them both, fo that they may be properly fattened upon the fpit. CHAP. III. BOILING. Preliminary Hints and Obfervations . N EATNESS being a moft material requifition in a kitchen, the cook fhould be particularly cautious to keep all the utenfils perfedtly clean, and the pots and fauce-pans properly tinned. In boiling any kind of meat, but particularly veal, much care and nicety are required. Fill your pot with a fufficient quantity of loft water; dutt your veal well with fine flour; put it into your pot, and fet it over a large fire. It is the cuftom with fome people to put in milk to make it white ; but this is of no ufe, and perhaps better omitted; for, if you ufe hard water, it will curdle the milk, give to the veal a brownifh-yellow caft, and will often hang in lumps about it. Oatmeal v/ili do the fame thing; but by drifting your veal, and putting it into the water when cold, it will prevent the foulnels of the water from hang¬ ing upon it. Take the fcum off clearly as foon as it begins to rife, and cover up the pot clofely. Let the meat boil as {lowly as poffible, but in plenty of water, which will make your veal rife and look plump. A cook cannot make a greater miftake, than to let any fort of meat "boil faft, fince it hardens the outfide before it is warm within, and contributes to difcolour it. Thus a leg of veal, of twelve pounds weight, will take three hours and an half boiling; and the flower it b e u. C 3 whiter 22 BOILING. whiter and plumper it will be. When mutton or beef is the objeft of your cookery, be careful to dredge them well with flour, before you put them into the pot of cold water, and keep it covered; but do not forget to take off the fcum as often as it rifes. Mutton and-beef do not require fo much boiling; nor is it much minded if it be a little under the mark; but lamb, pork, and veal, fhouid be well boiled, as they will otherwife be unwho’iefome. A leg of pork will take half an hour more boiling than a leg of veal of the fame weight; but, in general, when you boil beef or muttorvyou may allow an hour for every four pounds weight. To put in the meat when the water is cold, is allowed to be the belt method, as it thereby gets warm to the heart be¬ fore the outfide gets hard. To boil a leg of lamb, of four pounds weight, you mud: allow an hour and an half. Grafs Lamb . SO many pounds as the joint weighs, fo many quarters of an hour it muft boil. Serve it up with fpinach, car^ rots, cabbage, or broccoli. Calf's Head \ WASH it firft very clean, then parboil one half; beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather; then ftrew over it a feafoning of pepper, fait, thyme, parlley chopt fmall, fhred lemon-peel, grated bread, and a little nutmeg; (lick bits of butter over it, and fend it to the oven. Boil the other half white in a cloth; put them both into a difh. Boil the brains in a bit of cloth, with a very little parfley, and a leaf or two of lage. When they are boiled, chop them fmall, and warm them up in a faucepan, with a bit of butter, and a little pepper and fait. Lay the tongue, boiled and peeled, in the middle of a fmall difh, and the brains round it; have in another difh, bacon or pickled pork; greens and carrots in another. Lo boil Veal like Sturgeon. TAKE a fmall delicate fillet of veal, from a cow calf; take off the fkin, and then lard it all over, top, bottom. BOILING. 23 bottom, and Tides, with Tome bacon and ham. Put into a ftewpan Tome dices of bacon and veal; drew over them Tome pepper, fait, and fweet herbs; then put in the fillet with as much broth as will juft cover them. Cover the ftewpan very clofe, and let them fimmer very gently. When the veal is nearly enough, put in a bottle of white wine, an onion flared, a Tew cloves, and a little mace; put on the cover of the ftewpan, Tet it over a (love, and lay Tome charcoal upon it. When it has been kept hot ten minutes, take it off the fire, and remove the charcoal. IT it is intended to be eaten hot, the following fauce muft be made while it is dew¬ ing. Set on a faucepan, with a glafs of gravy, a glafs and a half of vinegar, half a lemon fliced, a large onion diced, and a good deal of pepper and fait. Boil this a few minutes, and ftrain it. Lay the meat in a difh, and pour the fauce over it. If it is to be eaten cold, it muft not be taken out of the liquor it is ftewed in, but fet by to cool all night, and it will be exceedingly good. Haunch or Neck of Venifon. HAWING let it lay in fait for a week, boil it in a cloth well floured; and allow a quarter of an hour’s boiling for every pound it weighs. For fauce, you may boil Tome cauliflowers, pulled into little fprigs, in milk and water, with Tome fine white cabbage, and Tome turnips cut in dice; add Tome beet-root cut into narrow , pieces, about an inch and a half long, and half an inch thick. Lay a fprig of cauliflower, and Tome of the turnips mafhed with Tome cream and a little butter. Let your cabbage be boiled, and then beat in a fauce¬ pan with a piece of butter and fait. Lay that next the cauliflower, then the turnips, then the cabbage, and To on till the difh be full. Place the beet-root here and there, according to your tafte. Have a little malted butter in a cup, if wanted. This is a very fine difh, and looks very prettily. The haunch or neck, thus dreflfed, eats well the next day, hafhed with gravy and fweet fauce. C 4 Hams. 24 BOILING. Hams. PUT your ham into a copper of cold water, and when it boils, take care that it boils flowly. A ham, of twenty pounds, will take four hours and a half boil¬ ing ; and fo in proportion for one of a larger or fmaller fize. No foaking is required for a green ham; but an old and large ham will require fixteen hours foaking in a large tub of foft water. Obferve to keep the pot well fkimmed while your ham is boiling. When you take it up, pull off the fkin, and rub it all over with an egg; drew on crumbs of bread, bade it with butter, and fet it to the fire till it be of a light brown. 'Tongues. STEEP the tongue in water all night, if it be a dry one; but if it be a pickled one, only wafh it out of water. Boil it three hours; and, if it be to be eat hot, dick it with cloves, rub it over,with the yolk of an egg, drew crumbled bread over it, and, after bading it with butter, fet it before the fire till it becomes of a light brown. Difh it up with a little brown gravy, or red- wine fauce, and lay dices of currant jelly round it. Pickled Pork. HAVING waffled your pork, and fcraped it clean, put it in when the water is cold, and let it boil till the rind be tender. Leg of Mutton with Cauliflowers and Sppach. CUT a leg of mutton venifon fafflion, and boil it in a cloth; boil three or four caulidowers in milk and water, pull them into fprigs, and dew them with butter, pepper, fait, and a little milk; dew fome fpinach in a faucepan ; put to the fpinach a quarter of a pint of grafy, a piece of butter and flour. When it is enough, put the mutton in the middle, the fpinach round it, and the cauliflower over all. The butter the cauliflower was dewed in mud be poured over it, and it mud be melted like a fmooth cream. Chickens , BOILING. 2 5 Chickens . PUT your chickens into fcalding water, and as foon as ffie feathers will flip off, take them out, otherwife they will make the fkin hard. After you have drawn them, lay them in fkimmed milk for two hours, and then trufs them with their heads on their wings. When you have properly finged, and dufted them with flour, cover them clofe in cold water, and let them over a flow fire. Having taken off the fcum, and boiled them flowly for five or fix minutes, take them off the fire, and keep them clofe covered for half an hour in the water, which will flew them fufficiently, and make them plump and white. Before you difh them, fet them on the fire to heat; then drain them, and pour over them white fauce, fuch as you will find under the chapter of Sauces. Fowls. PLUCK your fowls, draw them at the rump, and cut off the head, neck, and legs. Take out the breaft- bone carefully; and having ffcewered them with the ends of their legs in their bodies, tie them round with a fixing. Singe and duft them well with flour, put them into cold water, cover the kettle clofe, and fet it on the fire ; but take it off as foon as the fcum begins to rife. Cover them clofe again, and let them boil twenty minutes very flowly. Then take them off, and the heat of the water, in half an hour, will flew them fufficiently. Then treat them in the fame manner as-above directed for chickens; though melted butter is as often ufed as the white fauce. Furkies. A turkey fhould not be fed the day before it is to be killed; but give it a fpoonful of allegar juft before you kill it, and it will make it white and tender. Let it hang by the legs four or five days after it is killed; and when you have plucked it, draw it at the rump. Cut off the legs, put the end of the thighs into the body, and fkewer them down, and tie them with a firing. Having cut off the head and neck, grate a penny 26 BOIL I N G. penny loaf, chop fine a fcore of oyflers at leaft, Hared a little lemon peel, and put in a fufficient quantity of fait, pepper, and nutmeg. Mix thefe up into a light force¬ meat, with a quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, a lpoonful or two of cream, and fluff the craw with part of it; the reff muff be made into balls, and boiled. H aving fewed up the turkey, and dredged it well with flour, put it into a kettle of cold water; cover it, and let it over the fire, and take the fcum off as foon as it begins to rife, and cover it again. It mull boil very flowly for half an hour: then take off your kettle, and let it ftand clofe covered. A middling turkey will take half an hour to ftand in the hot water, and the fleam being confined will fufficiently flew it. When you difh it up, pour a little of your oyfter fauce over it, lay your balls round it, and ferve it up with the reft of your fauce in a boat. Barberries and lemon will be a proper garnifb. Set it over the tire, and make it quite hot before you difh it up. Geeje , SALT a goofe a week, and boil it an hour. Serve it up with onion fauce, or cabbage boiled or ftewed iq butter. Another Way. SINGE a goofe, and pour over it a quart of boiling milk. Let it lie in it all night, then take it out, and dry it well with a cloth. Cut fmall a large onion and fome fage, put them into the goofe, few it up at the neck and vent, hang it up by the legs till next day, then put it into a pot of cold water, cover it clofe, and let it boil fofdy for an hour. Onion fauce. ‘To Jmoke a Goofe. TAKE a large ftubble goofe, take off the fat, dry it well infide and out with a cloth ; wafh it all over with vinegar, and then rub it over with lome common fait, lalt-petre, and a quarter of a pound of coarfe fugar. Rub the falts well in, and let it lie a fortnight. Then dram it well, few it up in a doth, and dry it in the middle BOILING. 27 middle of a chimney. It fhould hang a month. Serve it up with onions, greens, &c. Ducks. AS loon as you have fealded and drawn your ducks, let them remain for a few minutes in warm water. * Then take them out, put them into an earthen pan, and pour a pint of boiling milk over them. Let them lie in it two or three hours, and when you take them out, dredge them well with flour; put them into a copper of cold water, and cover them up. Having boiled flowly about twenty minutes, take them out, and Another them with onion fauce. Pigeons. SCALD and draw your pigeons, and take out the craw as clean as poflible. Wafh them in feveral waters; and having cut off the pinions, turn their legs under their wings; dredge them, and put them into foft cold water. Having boiled them very flowly a quarter of an hour, difh them up, and pour over them good melted butter; lay round them a little broccoli, and ferve them up with butter and parfley. Rabbits. CASE your rabbits; fkewer them with their heads ftraight up, the fore legs brought down, and the hind legs ftraight. Boil them at leaft three quarters of an hour, and then fmother them with onion fauce. Pull out the jaw bones, ftick them in their eyes, and ferve them up with a fprig of myrtle or barberries in their rnopths. Partridges. BOIL them quick in a good deal of water, and fifteen minutes will be fufficient. For fauce take a quarter of a pint of cream, and a piece of frefli butter as large as a walnut; ftir it one way till it be melted, and pour it into the difh. Pheajants. BOIL your pheafant in a good deal of water, and be fure to keep it boiling. It it be a fmall one, half an BOILING. an hour will boil it; but, if it be of the larger fort, you mull allow it a quarter of an hour longer. Let your fauce be celery ftewed and thickened with cream, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour; and, when your pheafant be done, pour your fauce over it, and garnifh. with lemon. Obferve fo to ftew your celery, that the liquor may not be all wafted before you put in your cream. Seafon with fait to your palate. Snipes or Woodcocks . YOUR fnipes, or woodcocks, muft be boiled in good ftrong broth, or beef gravy, thus made: cut a pound of beef into little pieces, and pour it into two quarts of water, with an onion, a bundle of fweet herbs, a blade or two of mace, fix cloves, and fome whole pep¬ per. Cover it clofe, let it boil till about half wafted, then ftrain it off, and put the gravy into a faucepan, with fait enough to feafon it. Gut the birds clean; but take care of the guts. Put them into the gravy, cover them clofe, and ten minutes will boil them. In the mean time, cut the guts and liver fmall, then take a little of the gravy the fnipes are boiling in, and ftew the guts in it, with a blade of mace. Fry fome crumbs of bread crifp in fome butter, of a fine light brown. You muft take about as much bread as the infide of a ftale roll, and rub them fmall into a clean cloth; and when they be done, let them ftand ready in a plate be¬ fore the fire. When your fnipes be ready, take about half a pint of the liquor they were boiled in, and add to the guts two fpoonfuls of red-wine, and a piece of butter as big as a walnut, rolled in a little flour. Set them on the fire, fhake your faucepan often, (but do not ftir it with a lpoon) till the butter be all melted. Then put in the crumbs, give the faucepan a fhake, take up your birds, lay them in the dtfh, and pour your fauce over them. Lemon is a proper garnifh. Pigs Pettitoes. LET the feet boil till they are pretty tender; but take up the heart, liver, and lights, when they have boiled BOILING. 29 boiled ten minutes, and fhred them pretty fmall. Take out the feet, and fplit them; thicken your gravy with flour and butter, and put in your mincemeat, a fpoon- ful of white wine, a flice of lemon, a little fait, and give it a gentle boil. Beat the yolk of an egg; put to it two fpoonfuls of cream, and a little grated nut¬ meg. Then put in the pettitoes, and fhake it over the fire, without letting it boil. Lay fippets round the dilb, and pour in your mincemeat. 'Turtles. AS turtles are of various fizes, we fhall confine our directions in this article to one of about thirty pounds weight; and as the turtle be larger or fmaller, proper allowances mull be made. You mult kill your turtle the night before, and do this by cutting off the head. Let it bleed two or three hours, then cut off the fins and the callipee from the callipafh. You muff be cautious not to burft the gall. Throw all the inwards into cold water; keep the guts and tripe by themfelves, and open them with a penknife; walla them very dean in fealding water, and ferape off all the inward fkin, throwing them into cold water as you do them. Wafh them again, and put them into f'refh water, in which let them lie all night. Obferve to fcaid the fins and the edges of the callipafii and callipee. Take the meat off' the fhoulders, and break the bones; fet thefe over the fire, with the fins, in about a quart of water, and put into it a little fait, chyan, mace, and nutmeg. When it has ftewed about three hours, drain it, and put the fins by for ufe. The next morning, take fome of the meat you cut off the fhoulders, and chop it fmall, with about a pound of beef or veal fuet. Seafon thefe to your tafte, with a little fait, chyan, parffey, tweet mar¬ joram, mace, and nutmeg, and about halt a pint of Madeira wine. Stuff this under the flefhy part of the meat, and if any be left, lay it over to prevent the meat burning. Cut the remainder of the meat and fins in pieces, about the fize of an egg, and feafon them pretty high with fait, chyan, and a little nutmeg; put BOILING. 3 ° it into the callipafh, and take care that it be properly ievved up and fecured at the end, that the gravy may not efcape. Boil up the gravy, adding more wine, if it require it, and thicken it with a little flour and butter. Put lome of it to the turtle, and put it into the oven, with a well-buttered paper over it, to keep it from burning. When it be about half baked, fqueeze in the iuice of one or two lemons, and ftir it about. Two hours will bake the callipee; but the callipafh will re¬ quire three. Cut the guts in pieces two or three inches long, the tripe in lefs, and put them into a little water, and let it in the oven with the callipafh. When it be enough, drain it from the water, fend it up very hot, mixed with the other parts. The Weft Indian method of drefling a turtle is as follows: Take the turtle out of water the night before you intend to drefs it, and lay it on its back. In the morning, cut its throat, or the head off, and let it bleed well. Then cut off the fins; fcald, fcale, and trim them and the head, and raife the callipee, which is the belly or under fhell; clean it well, leaving to it as much meat as you conveniently can. Take from the back fhell all the meat and entrails, except the monfieur, which is the fat, and looks green; this mud all'o be baked with the fhell. Walk all clean with fait and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate fize. Take from it the bones, and put them with the fins and head into a foup-pot, with a gallon of water, fome fidt, and two blades of mace. When it boils, fkim it clean, and put in a bunch of thyme, parfiey, lavory, and young onions, and your veal part, except about one pound and a half, which mud be made forcemeat of, as for Scotch collops, adding a little chyan pepper. When the veal has boiled in the foup about an hour, take it out, cut it into pieces, and put it to the other part. The guts, which are confidered as the belt part, mult be fplit open, fcraped, and made clean, and cut into pieces about two inches long. Scald and fkin the paunch or maw, and cut it like the other parts; mix them with the guts and other parts, except the liver, and add half a pound BOILING. 31 a pound of frefh butter, a few fhalots, a bunch of thyme, parfley, and a little lavory, feafoned with fait, white pep¬ per, mace, three or four cloves beaten, and a little chyari pepper ; but take care not to put too much of it. Stew’ them about half an hour over a good charcoal fire, and throw in half a pint of Madeira wine, with as much of the broth as will cover it, and let it flew till tender, which will take four or five hours. When it be nearly enough, fkim it, and thicken it with flour, and add fome veal broth, about the thicknefs of a fricafee. Let your forcemeat balls be fried about the fize of a walnut, and be Hewed about half an hour with the reft. If there be any eggs, let them be boiled and cleaned; but, if there be none, get twelve or fourteen yolks of hard eggs; then put the ftew (which is the callipafh) into the fhell with the eggs, and either make ufe of a fala- mander, or put it into the oven to bake. Slafh the callipee in feveral places, put fome butter to it, and feafon it moderately with c'nyan and white pepper, fait, beaten mace, chopped thyme, parfley, and young onions. Put a piece on each flafh, and fome over the whole, and a duft of flour; then bake it in a brifk oven, in a tin or iron dripping-pan. The back fhell, which is called the callipaih, muft be feafoned like the callipee, and baked in a dripping-pan, fet upright, with four brick¬ bats, or any thing of that kind. An hour and a half will bake it, which muft be done before the ftew be put in. The fins, when boiled very tender, muft be taken out of the loup, and put into a ftewpan, with fome good veal gravy, not high coloured, a little Madeira wine, feafoned and thickened as the callipaih, and ierved in a difh by itfelfi The lights, heart, and liver, may be done the fame way, but a little higher feafoned; or the lights and heart may be ftewed with the callipaih, and taken out before you put it into the fhell, with a little ot the fauce, adding a little more feafoning ; but difh it by it- felf. The veal part may be made friandos, or Scotch fcollops of. The liver fnould never be ftewed with the callipafh, but always drefled by itfelf, after any manner you like; except you feparate the lights and heart from BOILING. 32 the callipafh, and then always ferve them together in one difh. Take care to (train the foup, and ferve it in a tureen or clean china bowl. The different difhes may be difpofed of in the following manner : the callipee at the head of the table, the callipafh at the bottom, and the lights, foup, fins, &c. in the middle. Meek Turtle. PUT the larged calf’s head you can procure, with the fkin on, into fealding water, and let it remain there till the hair come off. Then clean it well in warm water, and boil it three quarters of an hour. Then take it out of the water, and (lit it down the face. Take all the meat and fkin from the hone as clean as poffible, and be careful that you do not break off the ears. Lay it on a flat difh ; duff the ears with forcemeat, and tie them round with cloths. Take out the eyes, and pick all the red of the meat clean from the bones ; put it into a tofling-pan, with the niced and fatted part of another calf’s head, without the fkin on, boiled as long as the above, and three quarts of veal gravy. Lay the (kin in the pan on the meat, with the flefh fide up, then cover the pan ciofe, and let it dew one hour over a moderate fire. Put in three fweet-breads, fried to a white brown, an ounce of morels, the fame quantity of truffles, five artichoke bottoms boiled, an anchovy boned and chopped fmall, a fmall quantity of chyan pepper, a little fait, half a lemon, three pints of Madeira wine, two large fpoonfuls of mufhroom catchup, one of lemon pickle, half a pint ot muihrooms, and let them dew (lowly half an hour longer, and diffen it with flour and butter. Take the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, and the brains of both heads previoufly boiled; cut the brains into pieces, of the fize of nutmegs; make a rich forcemeat, and fpread it on the caul of a leg of veal. Roll it up in a cloth, and boil it one hour, and then cut it in three parts, the middle to be the larged. Put the meat into the difh, and lay the head over it, with the (kin fide up; put the larged piece of forcemeat between the ears, and,make the top of the ears to meet round BOILING. < found it, in which fcate it is called the crown of the turtle. Lay the other dices of the forcemeat at the narrow end, oppofite to each other, and lay a few of the artichoke bottoms, eggs, mufhrooms, brains, morels, and truffles, upon the face and round it. Strain the gravy boiling hot upon it, and, as it foon grows cold, be as quick as poffible in difhing it up. Salmon * H AVIN G fcaled your faimon, take out the blood, wafh the fifh well, and lay it on a fifh-plate. Put your water in a fifh-pan, with a little fait, and when it boils, put in your fifh for half a minute; then take it out for a minute or two. Do this four times, and then boil it till it be enough. When you take it out of the fifh-pan, let it over the water to drain, and cover it with a cloth, dipped in hot water. Fry a few dices of faimon, or dome fmall fifh, and lay them round it. Scraped horde- radifh and fennel will be a proper garnifh. Salmon boiled in Wine. TAKE fome dices of bacon, fat and lean together, ft pound of veal cut. thin, and a pound and a half of beef. Strew over them dome pepper and dalt, and pbt them in a deep ftewpan ; then a fine piece of frefh dal- mon, cut out of the middle. Put it into the ftewpan upon the other ingredients, and pour in as much water as will juft cover it, and no more. Set it over a gentle fire till the faimon is almoft done, then pour the water entirely away, and put in two quarts of white wine, with an onion cut in pieces, dome thyme and dweet marjo¬ ram ftripped from the ftalks. Let them flew gently, and while they are doing, cut a fweetbread into thin dices; then cut the dices acrofs, and drew them in a daucepan with dome rich veal gravy. When they be enough, add a quarter of a pint of eftence of ham. Take up the faimon, lay it in the difh, and pour the fweetbread and its dauce over it. D Soles* 34 BOILING. Soles. THEY mnft be boiled in fait and water, and ferved up with anchovy fauce. Soles boiled with White Wine. TA K E two or three pair of middling foies; when they are (kinned and gutted, wafh them in fpring-water; then put them on a difh, and pour half a pint of white wine over them*; turn them two or three times in it, and pour it away. Then cut off the heads and tails of the foies, and fet on a ftewpan with a little rich fifh broth. Put in an onion cut to pieces, a bunch of lweet herbs, pepper, fait, and a blade of mace. When this boils, put in the foies, and with them half a lemon cut in dices with the peel on. Let them fimmer (lowly; then take out the fweet herbs, and put in a pint of ftrong white wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them all fimmer together till the foies are enough. While the fifh is doing, put in half a pint of veal gravy, and a quarter of a pint of e(fence of ham. Let it boil a little, take up the foies, and pour this over it. Soles a la Frangoife. PUT a quart of water into an earthen difh, with half a pint of vinegar. Skin and clean a pair of foies, put them into the vinegar and water, and let them lie two hours. Then take them out and dry them with a cloth; then put them into a ftewpan, with a pint of white wine, a quarter of a pint of water, a very little thyme, a little fweet marjoram, winter favoury, and an onion (tuck with four cloves. Put in the foies, fprinkle a very little bay-falt, and cover them clofe. Let them fimmer very gently till they are enough ; then take them out, and lay them in a warm difh before the fire. Put into the liquor, after it is (trained, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and let it boil till of a proper thicknefs. Lay the foies in a di(h, and pour the fauce over them. A (mail turbot, or any flat fifh, may be drefled in the fame manner. Soles BOILING. 35 Soles the Dutch Way. TAKE a pair of large foies, fkin, gut, and wafh them very clean in lpring water. Set them on in a ftewpan with fome water and a little fait, and when it boils put in the foies, and let them boil a few minutes. Then put on a faucepan with fome parfley cut fmall in a little water, and let it ftand till the water is all con- fumed. Then fliake in fome flour, and put in a good piece of butter. Shake them well together till all is well mixed, and then lay the Idles, when they are drain¬ ed, upon a dilh, and pour the fauce over them. Trout. BOIL them in vinegar, water, and fait, with a piece of horferadilh, white fauce, anchovy fauce, and plain butter. Cod's Head. FIRST take out the gills and the blood clear from the bone, and wafh the head well; then rub over it a little fait, and a glafs of allegar. Lay it on your fifli- plate, and when your water boils, throw in a large hand¬ ful of fait, .and a glafs of allegar. .Put in your fifh, and boil it gently halt an hour ; but if it be a large one, it will take three quarters. Take it up very carefully, and ftrip off the fkin nicely ; put it before a brifk fire, dredge it with flour, and bake it well with butter. When the froth begins to rife, throw fome crumbs of bread over it, and keep baking it all the time to make it froth pro¬ perly. When it looks of a fine white brown, dilh it up, and garnifli it with a few fmall fifh or oyfters fried, barberries, fcraped horfe-radifh, and lemon cut in Dices, laid round it. The roe and liver rnuft be cut into Dices, and a little of the lobfter out of the lauce, in lumps, muft be laid over it. Salt Cod .. LET your fifh lie in water all night; and if you put a glafs of vinegar into the water, it will draw out the fait, and make it eat frefh. The next day boil it, and when it be enough, break it into fleaks on your dilh. D 2 Pour BOILING. 36 Pour over it parfnips boiled and beat fine, with butter and cream ; but egg fauce is more generally ufed. As it very loon grows cold, you mud fend it to table on a water-plate. Cod Sounds. COD founds, drdfed like little turkies, is a pretty fide-difh for a large table, or for a dinner in Lent. Boil your founds as for eating, but not too much. Take them up, and let them ftand till they are quite cold; then make a forcemeat of chopped ovders, crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs, nut¬ meg, pepper, and fak, and fill your founds with it. Skewer them in the fhape of a turkey, and lard them down each fide, as you would do a turkey’s bread. Dull: them well with flour, and put them before the fire in a tin oven to road. Bade them well with butter. When they be enough, pour on them oyder fauce, and garnifh with barberries. Turbot. YOUR turbot mud be walked clean; but by letting it lie too long in the water it will become foft. Rub fome allegar over it, which will add to its firmnefs. Put it on your fifh-plate, with the white fide upwards, and pin a cloth over it tight under your plate, which will prevent its breaking. Boil it gently in hard water, with plenty of fait and vinegar, and fcum it well, which will prevent the fkin being difcoloured. Be dire not to put in your fifh till the water boils, and when it be enough, take it up and drain it. Take the cloth off carefully, and flip the filli on your difh; lay over it oyder patties, or fried oyders; put yo*ur lobder or gravy fauce into boats, and make ufe of crifp parfley and pickles for the garni lh. Turbot boiled in Craw. TAKE a middling-fized turbot, let it be well wafir¬ ed, and wiped very dry. Then take a deep dewpan, put in the fifh, with two bay leaves, a handful of padley, a large onion duck with cloves, and fome fait and pep¬ per, bleat a pint of white wine boiling hot, and pour it BOILING. 37 it upon the turbot.' Then ftrain in fome very ftrong veal gravy, more- than will cover it. Set it over a ftove till it is nearly enough, and then remove it on one fide, that the full ftrength of the ingredients may be infufed into it. When it is quite done, put it on a hot difh, ftrain the gravy into a faucepan, with fome butter and flour; pour fome over the turbot, and the reft into a fauce-boat. Turbot boiled, with Capers. WASH and dry a fmall turbot, then take fome thyme, parfley, fweet herbs, and an onion fliced. Put them into a ftewpan, then lay in the turbot, (the ftew- pan fhould be juft big enough to hold the fifh.) Strew over the fifh the fame ‘herbs that are under it, with fome chives and fweet bafil. Then pour in an equal quantity of white wine and white wine vinegar, till the fifh is covered. Strew in a little bay-falt, with fome whole pepper; fet the ftewpan over a gentle ftove, en- creafing the heat by degrees, till it be enough. Then take it off the fire, but do not take the turbot out. Set a faucepan on the fire with a pound of butter, two an¬ chovies fplit, boned and wafted, two large fpoonfuls of capers cut fmall, fome chives whole, and a little pepper, fait, fome nutmeg grated, a little flour, a lpoonful of vinegar, and a little water. Set the faucepan over the ftove, and keep fhaking it round for fome time, and then fet the turbot on to make it hot. Put it in a difh, and pour fome of the fauce over it ; lay fome horfe- radifh round it, and put what remains of the fauce in a boat. Pike . GUT and gill your pike, and having wafhed it well, make a good forcemeat of chopped oyfters, the crumb of half a penny loaf, a little lemon peel Aired fine, a lump of butter, the yolks of two eggs, a few fweet herbs, and leafon them to your tafte with fait, pepper, and nut¬ meg. Mix all thefe well together, and put them into the belly of the fifh, which mu ft be fewed up, and fkewered round. It muft be boiled in hard water, with D 3 a littl# BOILING. 3 * a little fait, and a tea-cup full of vinegar put into the fifh-pan. Put in the fifh as foon as the water boils, and, if it be of the middling fize, half an hour’s boiling will be fufficient. Serve it up with oyfter fauce in a boat, having firft poured a little on the fifh. You may ufe pickled barberries and walnuts for a garnifh. Sturgeon, LAY as large a piece as you pleafe of your fifh all night in fait water, having firft taken care to wafh it clean. Take it out the next morning, and rub it well with allegar, and let it lie in it two hours. Put your fturgeon into the fifh-kettle when full of boiling water, and throw in an ounce of bay-falt, a few fprigs of fwe£t marjoram, and two large onions. When you perceive the bones begin to leave the fifh, take it up, and ftrip off the fkin ; then flour it well ; put it before the fire, and having balled it with frefh butter, let it (land till it be of a fine brown. When you difh it up, you muff make ufe of the white fauce, which vou will find in Chap. XII. Crifp parfley and red pickles mu ft be your garnifh. Mackerel. WHEN you have gutted your mackerel, dry them carefully in a clean cloth, and gently rub them over with vinegar. Lay them on your fifh-plate, and handle them as little as poflible, they being a very tender fifh, and liable to break. Put them into your fifh-pan when your water boils, put in a little fait, and let them boil gently about a quarter of an hour. When you take them up, drain them well, and put the water that runs from them into a fauce-pan, with two fpoonfuls of lemon pickle, one large fpoonful of walnut catchup, the fame of brown¬ ing, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, and a flice of lemon. Boil them all together about fifteen minutes, llrain it through a hair fieve, and thicken it with flour and butter. This muft be fent up in one boat, and parfley fauce in another. Your fifh muft be difhed up with their tails in the middle, and fcraped horfe-radifh and barberries will ferve as garnifh. Flat BOILING. 39 Flat Fijh. UNDER this article we include flounders, plaife, and the various fpecies of flat filh of that tribe. Firft cut off the fins, nick the brown fide under the head, and take out the guts. Dry them with a cloth, and boil them in fait and water. Garnifh them with red cab¬ bage, and ferve them up either with gravy, jfhrimp, cockle, or muffel fauce. Herrings. THOUGH herrings are feldom boiled, yet, as they are fometimes ordered to be drefled in that manner, we jfhall diredt the cook how that is to be done. Scale, gut, and walk them, clean and dry them, and rub them over with a little fait and vinegar. Skewer their tails in their mouths, and lay them on your fifh-plate. Put them in when the water boils, and in about ten or twelve mi¬ nutes take them up. Let them drain properly, and then turn their heads into the middle of the difli. Ufe parfley and butter for fauce, and garnifh with fcraped horfe-radifh. Ferch. WHEN you have fcaled, gutted, and walked your fifh, put it into the water when it boils, with fome lalt, an onion cut into flices, and feparated into round rings, a handful of parfley clean picked and walked, and as much milk as will turn the water. Put the fifh into a foup-difh as foon as it be enough, and pour a little of the water, with the parfley and the onions over it. It may be ferved up with butter and parfley in a boat, and with or without onions, as you choofe. The fame me¬ thod may be obferved in boiling a Trout. Eels. “^HAVING fkinned, gutted, and taken the blood out of your eels, cut off their heads, dry them, and turn them round on your fifh-plate. Boil them in fait and water, and ferve them up with parfley iauce. D 4 Mullets, 43 ROASTING. Mullets. BOIL/ them in fait and water ; when they are enough, pour away part of the water, and put to the reft a pint of red wine, fome fait and vinegar, two onions diced, iwith a bunch of fweet herbs, fome nutmeg, beaten mace, and the juice of a lemon. Boil thefe well together, with two or three anchovies. Then put in the fifh, and when they have fimmered in it fome time, put them into a difh, and ftrain the fauce over them. Shrimps 01? oyfters may be added. C H A P. IV. ROASTING. Preliminary Hints and Objervations. I N roafting all kinds of meat, it will be a ufcful me¬ thod to put a little fait and water into the dripping- pan, and bafte the meat a little therewith. When it be dry, dredge it well with hour, and bafte it with frefh butter ; becaufe it will give a better colour to your meat. The fire fhould be regulated according to the thing to dreffed. If it be any thing very little or thin, then you fhould have a pretty brifk fire, tha^ it may be done quick and nice; if it be a large joint, then take care that a large fire is laid on to cake. The fire muft be always clear at the bottom; and when the meat is half done, move the dripping-pan and fpit a little from the fire, and ftir it up, to make it burn clear and brifk; for a good fire is a material thing in the bufinefs of cookery. If it be beef you are roafting, take care to paper the top, and bafte it well while it is at the fire, not forgetting to throw fome fait on it. When the fmo.ke draws to the fire. Is a fign that it is nearly enough; and then take off the paper* ROASTING. 4i paper, bade it well, and dredge it with flour, to make it frothy ; but never fait your meat before you lay it to the fire, as that will draw out part of the gravy.—If you intend to keep your meat a few days before you drefs it, dry it well with a clean cloth, and dredge it all over with flour, hanging it where the air can come to it; but take care that you leave no damp place about it unwiped. In roafting mutton or lamb, the loin, the chine and the fad die, muft have the fkin raifed and fkewered on, and, when near done, take off the fkin, and bafte and flour it to froth it up. All other forts of mutton and lamb muft be roafted with a quick clear fire, with¬ out the fkin being raifed. You muft be careful to roaft veal of a fine brown ; and if it be a fillet or loin, be fure to paper the fat, that you may lofe as little of it as poflible. At firft keep it at fome diftance from the fire, but when it be foaked, put it nearer. When you lay it down, bafte it well with butter; and when it be nearly done, bafte it again, and dredge it with a little flour. The bread muft be roafted with the caul on, till the meat be enough done, and fkewer the fweet-bread on the back fide of the breaft. When it be fufficiently roafted, take off the caul, bafte it, and dredge a little flour over it. Pork fhould be well done, or it will other- wife be apt to furfeit. When you roaft a loin, cut the fkin acrols with a fharp knife, in order to make the crack¬ ling eat the better. When you roaft a leg of pork, fcore it in the fame manner as the loin, and fluff the knuckle part with fage and onion, and fkewer it up. Put a little drawn gravy in the difh, and fend it up with apple- fauce in a boat. The fpring or hand of pork, if very young, and roafted like a pig, eats very well; but, other- wife, it is much better boiled. The fparib fhould be bafted with a little butter, a very little dull: of flour, and fome fage and onion fhred fmall. Apple-fauce is the pnly fauce made for this joint. Wild fowls require a clear brifk fire, and fhould be roafted till they are of a light brown, but not too much; for it is a great fault to roaft them till the gravy runs out of them, as they thereby lofe their fine flavour. Pame fowls require more roafting, ROASTING. 42 roailing, as they are a long time before they get thoroughly heated. They fhould be often bailed, in order to keep up a itrong froth, and as it makes them of a finer co¬ lour, and rife better. Pigs and geefe fhould be roailed before a good fire, and turned quick. Hares and rab¬ bits require time and care, to fee the ends are roailed enough. In order to prevent their appearing bloody at the neck when they be cut up, cut the neck fkin, when they are half roailed, and let out the blood. Having thus premifed thefe general rules for roailing, we fhall now proceed to particulars. A Fore Quarter of Houfe Lamb. HOUSE lamb requires to be well roailed. A fmall fore quarter will take an hour and a half; a leg, three quarters of an hour. For fauce, fallad, broccoli, potatoes, celery raw or ftewed. Or for a fore quarter of iamb, cut off the fhoulder, pepper and fait the ribs, and fqueeze a feville orange over it. Tongues or Udders. THE tongue fhould be parboiled, before it be put down to roail; flick eight or ten cloves about it, baile it with butter, and /erve it up with fome gravy and fweetmeat fauce. An udder may be roailed after the fame manner. Sweetbreads. FIRST parboil them, and when cold lard them with bacon, and roail them in a Dutch oven, or on a poor man’s jack. For fauce, plain butter, ketchup and but¬ ter, or lemon fauce. Venifon. I N order to roail a haunch of venifon properly, as foon as you have fpitted it, you muft lay over it a large fheet of paper, and then a thin common paile, with ano¬ ther paper over that. Tie it fait, in order to keep the paile from dropping off and if the haunch be a large one, it will take four hours roailing. As foon as it be done enough, take off both paper and paile, dredge it well with flour, and baile it with butter. As foon as it becomes ROASTING. 43 becomes of a light brown, difh it up with brown gravy, or currant jelly fauce, and fend up fome in a boat. 4 / Saddle of Mutton. I J TAKE a faddle, and remove the fkin very neatly near the rump, without taking it quite off, or break¬ ing it. Take fome lean ham, truffles, morells, green onions, parfley, thyme, fweet herbs, all chopped fmall, with fome fpice, pepper and fait. Strew it over the mutton where the fkin is taken off; put the fkin over it neatly, and tie over it fome white paper well buttered, and roaft it. When it is nearly enough, take off the paper, ftrew over it fome grated bread, and when it is of a fine brown, take it up. Have ready fome good gravy for fauce. Haunch of Mutton. T O drefs a haunch of mutton venifon fafhion, take a hind fat quarter of mutton, and cut the leg like a haunch. Lay it in a pan, with the backfide of it down, and pour a bottle of red wine over it, in which let it lie twenty-four hours. Spit it, and roaft it at a good quick fire, and keep bailing it all the time with the fame liquor and butter. It will require an hour and an half roafting; and when it is done, fend it up with a little good gravy in one boat, and fweet fauce in another. A good fat neck of mutton done in this manner, is ef- teemed delicate eating. , Mutton with Oyfters. TAKE a leg of mutton, after it has been killed two or three days, fluff it ail over with oyfters, and roaft it. Garnifh with horfe-radilh. It may be roafted with cockles in the fame manner. Pigs. COOKS, who choofe to have the killing of the pig they are to drefs, muft proceed thus. Stick the pig juft above the breaft-bone, and run the knife into its heart; for if the heart is not touched, it will be a long while dying. As foon as it is dead, put it a few mi- I nutes in cold water, and rub it over with a little rofin. 44 ROASTING. beat exceedingly fine, or you may make ufe of its own blood for that purpofe. Let it lie half a minute in a pail of fcalding water, then take it out, lay it upon a clean table, and pull off all the hairs as faff as pofiible j but if they do not come clean off, put it into the hot water again, and when it is perfectly clean, wafh it in warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, in order that it may not tafte of the rofin when dreffed. Takeoff the four feet at the firft joints, flit it down the belly, and take out all the entrails. Put the heart, liver, lights, and pettitoes together; wafh the pig well in cold water, and having perfeftly dried it with a cloth, hang it up. When you roaft your pig, put in a little fage fhredded, two tea-fpoonfuls of fait, one of black pep¬ per, and a cruft of brown bread. , Having fpitted your pig, few it up, and lay it down to a brifk clear fire, with a pig-plate hung in the middle of it. As foon as the pig is warm, put a piece of butter in a cloth, and fre¬ quently rub the pig with it while it is -roafting; and, if it be a large one, it will require an hour and an half. When your pig becomes of a fine brown, and the fleam draws to the fire, rub it quite dry with a clean cloth, and then rub it with a little cold butter, which will help to crifp it. Cut off the head with a {harp knife, and take off the collar, the ears, and the jaw-bone. Split the jaw in two, and when you have cut the pig down the back, which muff be done before you draw out the jpit, lay the pig back to back on the difh, a jaw on each fide, an ear on each fhoulder, and the collar at the fhoulder. Garnifh it with a cruft of brown bread grated, pour in your iauce, and ferve it up. Another method of roafting a pig is, having prepared it as above, fpit it, and lay it to the fire, which mull be a very good one at each end, or hang a flat iron in the middle of the grate. Before you lay it down to the fire, fhred a little fage very fmall, take a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and a little fait and pepper; put this into the pig, and lew it up ftrongly. Then flour it all over, and continue to do fo till the eyes drop, out, or the crackling will be hard. Take care to fave all ROASTING. 45 zc nes from it, and for this purpofe put a •. jt pan under in the dripping-pan, as foon as the gravy begins to run. When the pig be enough, bur up the fire brifkly, take a coarfe cloth with about a quarter of a pound of butter in it, and rub the pig ail over, till the crackling be quite crifp, when it mult be taken up. Lay it in the difb, and cut off the head with a fharp knife, and, before you draw out the fpit, cut the pig in two. Cut off the ears, and lay one at each end ; divide the under jaw, and difpofe of them in the fame manner. Put the gravy you laved into fome melted butter, and boil them. Pour it into the difh, with the brains bruifed fine, and .the fage, mixed all together, and ferve it up. Hind-quarter of a Pig , Lamb fafhion. AT that feafon of the year, when houfe-lamb bears an extraordinary price, the hind-quarter of a large pig will be a very good fubftitute for it. Take off the fkin and roaft it, and it will eat like lamb. Serve it up with mint fauce, or a fallad. Half an hour roafting will be fufficient. Ham or Gammon. H AVI N G taken off the fkin or rind, lay it in luke¬ warm water for two or three hours. Then lay it in a pan, pour upon it a quart of canary, and let it fteep therein for ten or twelve minutes. When you have fpitted it, put fome fheets of paper over the flit fide, pour the canary, in which it was foaked, into the drip¬ ping-pan, and bafte it all the time it be roafting. When it be roafted enough, pull off the paper, and dredge it well with crumbled bread and parfley Hired fine. Make the fire brifk, and brown it well. If you ferve it up hot, garnifh it with rafpings of bread ; but if cold, ferve it on a clean napkin, and garnifh it with green parfley, for a fecond courle. Or you may do it thus: 1 ake off the fkin of the ham or gammon, when you have half boiled it, and dredge it with oatmeal fifted very fine. Bafte it with butter, and roaft it gently two hours. Stir up your fire, and then brown it quick; and when fo done ROASTING. 46 done, difh it up, and pour brown gravy into the difh. Garnifh with bread rafpings, if you ferve it up hot - 9 but with par Hey if cold. Calf’s Head. WASH the head very dean, take out the bones, and dry it well with a cloth. Make a feafoning of beaten mace, pepper, fait, nutmeg, and cloves, fome bacon cut very fmall, and fome grated bread. Strew this over it, roll it up, fkewer it with a fmall fkewer, and tie it with tape. Roaft it, and bade it with butter; make a rich veal gravy, thickened with butter, and rolled in flour. Some like mufhrooms and the fat part of oyftersj but it is very good without. 'The German Way of dreffing a Calf's Head. TAKE a large calf’s head, with great part of the neck cut with it. Split it in half, fcald it very white, and take out the jaw-bone. Take a large ftewpan or faucepan, and lay at the bottom fome flices of bacon, then fome thin beef ftakes, with fome pepper and fait. Then lay in the head, pour in fome beef broth, a large onion ftuck with cloves, and a bunch of fweet herbs. Cover the ftewpan very clofe, and fet it over a ftove to ftew. Then make a ragout, with a quart of good beef gravy, and half a pint of red wine. Let the wine be well boiled in the gravy; add to it fome fweetbreads parboiled and cut in flices, fome cocks-combs, oyfters, muflirooms, truffles, and morels. Let thefe ftew till they be tender. When the head is ftewed, take it up, put it into a dilh, take out the brains, the eyes, and the bones. Then flit the tongue, cut it into fmall pieces, cut the eves in pieces alfo, and chop the brains; put thefe into a baking difh, and pour lome of the ragout over them. Then take the head, lay it upon the ragout, pour the reft, over it, and on that fome melted butter. Then fcrape fome fine Parmefan cheefe, and ftrew it over the buttpr, and lend it to the oven. It does not want much baking, but only requires to be of a fine brown. 6 ' Calf’s ROASTING. 47 Calf's Liver. LARD it with bacon, (fpit it firft) and roaft it. Serve it up with good gravy. Ox Palates. AFTER you have boiled your palates till they be tender, blanch them, cut them into dices about two inches long, and lard half with bacon. Then have ready two or three pigeons, and two or three chicken- peepers ; draw them, trufs them, and fill them with force-meat. Having nicely larded half of them, let them be thus fpitted on a bird-fpit: a bird, a palate, a fage-leaf, and a piece of bacon, and fo on. Take cocks-combs and Iamb-Hones, parboiled and blanched; lard them with little bits of bacon, large oyfters par¬ boiled, and each one larded with a piece of bacon. Put thefe on a fkewer, with a little piece of bacon, and a fage-leaf between them. Tie them on a fpit and roaft them. Then beat up the yolks of three eggs, fome nutmeg, a little fait, and crumbs of bread. Bade them with thefe all the time they be roafting, and have ready two fweet breads, each cut in two, fome artichoke bottoms cut into four and fried, and then rub the diih with fhalots. Lay the birds in the middle, piled one upon another, and lay the other things all Separate by themfelves round about in the difh. Have ready for fauce a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, the oyfter liquor, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil all thefe together, and pour it into the dilh, with a little juice of lemon. Garnifli with lemon. Green Geefe. PUT a large lump of butter into the goofe, fpit It, jf and lay it down to the fire. Singe it, dredge it with | flour, and bafte it well with butter. Bafte it three or ! four different times with cold butter, which will make j| the fiefh rife much better than if it were balled with the ' contents of the dripping-pan. If the goofe be a large j one, it mu ft be kept to the fire three quarters of an hour: ROASTING. 4$ hour ; and when you think it is enough, dredge it with flour* bafte it till a fine froth rifes on it, and the goofe be of a nice brown. Garnifh it with a cruft of bread grated round the edge of the difh, and ferve it up with a little brown gravy under it. Stubble Gee/e* TAKE a few fage leaves and two onions, and chop them as fine as poffible. Mix them with a large piece of butter, two fpoonfuls of fait, and one of pepper. Put this into the goofe, fpit it, and lay it down to the fire. Singe it, and duft it with flour, and when it is thoroughly hot, bafte it with frefh butter. A large goofe will require an hour and an half before a good fire, and when it be done, dredge and bafte it, pull' out the fpit, and pour in a little boiling water. Chickens. PLUCK your chickens very carefully, draw them,. and cut off their claws only, and trufs them. Put them down to a good fire, finge, duft, and bafte them with butter. A quarter of an hour will roaft them; and when they be enough, froth them, and lay them on your difh. Serve them up hot, with parfley and butter poured over them. Fowls. HAVING cleanfed and drefled your large fowls, put them down to a good fire, finge, duft, and bafte them well with butter. They muft be near an hour at the fire. Make your gravy of the necks and gizzards, and when you have (trained it, put in a fpoonful of browning. Take up your fowls, pour fome gravy into the difh, and ferve them up with egg fauce. Pheafants. PPIEASANTS and partridges may be treated in the fame manner. Duft them with flour, and bafte them often with frefh butter, keeping them at a good diftance from the fire. A good fire will roaft them in half an hour. Make your gravy of a fcrag of mutton, a tea- ROASTING. 49 a tea-fpoonful of lemon pickle, a large fpoonful of catchup, and the lame of browning. Strain it, and put a little of it into the difh; ferve them up with bread- fauce in a bafon, and fix one of the principal feathers of the pheafant in its tail. Fowls , Pheafant fajhion. IF you fhould have but one pheafant, and want two in a difh, take a large full-grown fowl, keep the head on, and trufs it juft as you do a pheafant. Lard it with bacon, but do not lard the pheafant, and nobody will know it. Pigeons. SCALD, draw, and take the craws clean out of your pigeons, and walh them in feveral waters. When you have dried them, roll a good lump of butter in chopped parfley, and feafon it with pepper and fait* Put this into your pigeons, and fpit, duft, and bafte them. A good fire will roaft them in twenty minutes, and when they be enough, ferve them up with parfley and butter for fauce, and lay round them bunches o£ afparagus, if they be in feafon. Larlis . SKEWER a dozen of larks, and tie both ends of the fkewer to the fpit. Dredge and bafte them, and let them roaft ten minutes. Break half a penny loaf into crumbs, and put them, with a piece of butter of the fize of a walnut, into a tofling-pan, and having fliaken them over a gentle fire till they are of a light brown, lay them between the birds, and pour a little melted butter over them. Quails. TRUSS the quails, and make a fluffing for them with beef fuet and fweet herbs chopped very final!, feafoned with a little fpice. Put them upon a fmall fpit, and when they grow warm bafte them with water and fait; then dredge them, and bafte them with butter. For fauce, diflfolve an anchovy in good gravy, with two E or ROASTING. 5® or three efchalots cut very fine, and the juice of a Seville orange. Lay fome fried bread-crumbs round the difh. Ducks. KILL and draw your ducks; then Hired an onion* and a few fage leaves. Seafon thefe with fait and pep¬ per, and put them into your ducks. Singe, duft, and bafte them with butter, and a good fire will roaft them in twenty minutes; for the quicker they are done, the better they will be. Before you take them up, duft them with flour, and bafie them with butter, to give them a good frothing and a pleading brown* Your gravy mud be made of the gizzard and pinions, an onion, a tea fpoonful of lemon pickle, a few pepper corns, a large blade of mace, a fpoonful of catchup, and the fame of browning. Strain it, pour it into your difh, and fend it up with onion fauce in a bafon. ! Turkics . HAYING drefied your turkey, according to the preparatory directions already given for boiling it, in page 25, trufs its head down to the legs, and make your forcemeat, which mud be thus prepared. Break a penny loaf into crumbs. Aired a quarter of a pound of beef fuet very fine, a little faufage meat, or veal minced and pounded, and feafon to your tafte with pep¬ per, fait, and nutmeg. Mix up all together lightly with three eggs, and Huff it into the craw. Spit it, and lay it down to a good fire, which mud be clear and brifk. Singe, duft it with flour, and bafte it feveral times with cold butter, which will froth it much better than the hot contents of the dripping-pan, and make the turkey more plump. When it be properly done, renew the frothing in the fame manner as before, and difh it up. A middling fize turkey muft be down at the fire an hour and a quarter. Pour into your difh your fauce, fuch as you will find under the chapter of fauces. Serve it up garn.ilied with lemon and pickles. Ruffs ROASTING. Ruffs and Rees. THESE birds are faid to be peculiar to Lincoln- fhire, being very rarely found in any other county. The propereft food to give them is white bread and boiled milk, and they will be fat in about eight or ten days; but they muft be fed feparately, they being fo delicate a bird, that they will not both eat out of the fame pot or trough. When you kill them, ftrip the fkin off the head and neck, with the feathers on, and then pluck and draw them. Put them at a good diftance from the fire in roafting, and they will be done enough in about twelve minutes, if the fire be good. When you take them up, flip the fkin on again with the feathers on. Garnifh the diffi with crifp crumbs of bread round it, and fend them up with gravy under them, fuch as is diredted for the pheafant, and bread fauce in a boat. , Rabbits. CASE your rabbits, fkewer their heads with their mouths upon their backs, flick their fore legs into their ribs, and fkewer the hind legs double. Break half a penny loaf into crumbs, a little parfley, thyme, fweet marjoram, and lemon peel. Shred all thefe fine, and feafon them with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Mix them up into a light fluffing, with two eggs, a little cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Put it into their bellies, few them up, and dredge and bafte them well with butter. Take them up when they have roafted an hour; chop the livers, and lay them in lumps round the edge of your diffi. Serve them up with parfley and butter for fauce. Rabbits , dreffed Hare fqjhion. LARD your rabbit with bacon, and roaft it in the manner of a hare. If you lard it, you muft make gravy fauce; but if it be not larded, white fauce will be moft proper. Hares. HAVING fkewered your hare with the head upon I one ffioulder, the fore legs ftuck into the ribs, and the * E 2 hind ROASTING. hind legs double, proceed to make your pudding, which muft be done in this manner. Crumble a penny-loaf, put to it a quarter of a pound of beef marrow or fuet, the like quantity of butter, Hired the liver, put in a fprig or two of winter favory, a little lemon peel, an anchovy, a little chyan pepper, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix thefe up in a light forcemeat, with a glafs of red wine, and two eggs; put it into the belly of the hare, and few it up. Put a quart of milk into the dripping-pan, and bafte your hare with it till a very little of the milk be left. If it be a large hare, it will require an hour and an half doing; and when it is nearly done, dull and bafte it with butter till it be pro¬ perly frothed. Woodcocks and Snipes . HAVING put your birds on a little fpit, take a round of a threepenny loaf, and toaft it brown; lay it in a difh under the birds; and when you lay them down to the fire, bafte them with a little butter, and let the trail drop on the toaft. When they be roafted enough, put the toaft in the difh, and lay the birds on it. Pour about a quarter of a pint of gravy into the difh, and fet it over a lamp or chaffing-difh, for three or four minutes, when the whole will be in a proper condition to be fent to the table. Obferve never to take any thing out of a woodcock or fnipe. Eels and Lampreys . EELS and lampreys are roafted with puddings in their bellies in the fame manner. Cut off their heads, gut them, and take out the blood from the bone as clean as poffible. Make- a forcemeat of ftirimps or oyfters, chopped fmall, half a penny loaf, crumbled, a little lemon peel Hired fine, the yolks of two eggs, and a little fait, pepper, and nutmeg. Put this into the bellies of the fifli, lew them up, and turn them round on the difh. Put flour and butter over them, pour a little water into the difh, and bake them in a moderate oven. When you take them out, take the gravy from under them, and fkim off the fat; ftrain it through a 2 hair ROASTING. hair fieve, and add to it a tea fpoonful of lemon pickle, two of browning, a large fpoonful of walnut catchup, a glais of white wine, an anchovy, and a (lice of lemon. Let it boil ten minutes, and thicken it with butter and flour. Lemon and crifp parfley may ferve as a garnilh. Lobjiers. PUT a fkewer into the vent of the tail of the lobfter, to prevent the water getting into the body of it, and put it into a pan of boiling water, with a little fait in it, and if it be a large one, it will take half an hour boiling. Then lav it before the fire, and bafte it with butter till it has a fine froth. Difh it up with plain melted butter in a boat. This is a better way than adtually roafting them, and is not attended with half the trouble. Cod's Head. HAVING wafhed the head very clean, and fcored it with a knife, drew a little fait on it, and lay it in a ftew-pan before the fire, with fomething behind it, that the fire may roaft it. Throw away all the water that comes from it the firft half hour; then throw on it a little nutmeg, cloves, mace beat fine, and fait. Flour it, and bafte it with butter. When that has lain fome time, turn and feafon it, and bafte the other fide the fame. Turn it often, then bafte it with butter and crumbs of bread. If it be a large head, it will take four or five hours baking. Have ready fome melted butter with an anchovy, fome of the liver of the fifh boiled and bruifed fine, and mix it well with the butter, and two yolks of eggs beat fine. Then (train them through a fieve, and put them into the faucepan again, with a few fhrimps or pickled cockles, two fpoonfuls of red wine, and the juice of a lemon. Pour it into the pan in which the head was roafted, and ftir it all together. Then pour it into the faucepan, keep it ftirring, and let it boil. Pour it into a bafon^ and garnifh the head with fried fifh, lemon, and fcraped horfe-radifh. If you have a large tin oven, it will better anfwer the purpofe. E 3 CHAP. 54 BAKING, CHAP. V. BAKING. Mutton Steaks. U T a loin of mutton into {leaks, and feafon them with pepper and fait. Butter a difh, and lay them in. Take a quart of milk, fix eggs well beaten, and four fpoonfuls of flour; beat the flour and eggs toge¬ ther in a little milk, and then put the reft to it. Put in fome beaten ginger and fait, pour it over the fteaks, and fend it to bake. Half an hour will bake it. Leg of Beef. CUT the meat off a leg of beef, and break the bones; put it into an earthen pan, with two onions, and a bundle of fweet herbs, and feafon it with a fpoonful of whole pepper, and a few cloves and blades of mace. Cover it v/ith water, and having tied the pot down dole with brown paper, put it into the oven to bake. As foon as it is enough, take it out and ftrain it through a fleve, and pick out all the fat and fmews, putting them into a faucepan, with a little gravy, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Set the faucepan on the fire, fhake it often, and when it is thoroughly hot, pour it into the difh, and fend it to table. Ox cheek may be done in the fame manner; and if you fhould think it too ftrong, you may weaken it by pouring in a fuflicient quantity of hot water; but cold water will fpoil it. Rump of Beef. TAKE a rump of beef and bone it, beat it well with a rolling-pin, cut off the Anew, and lard it with a large piece of bacon. Seafon your lards with pepper, fait, and cloves, and lard acrofs the meat, that it may cut handfomely. Seafon every part of the meat with pepper, fait, and cloves; put them in an earthen pot, with all the broken bones, half a pound of butter, fome 5 bay BAKING. $5 bay leaves, fome whole pepper, one or two fhalots, and fome fweet herbs. Cover the top of the pan well; then put it in an oven, and let it (land eight hours. Serve it up with fome dried fippets, and its own liquor. Calf’s Head. TAKE a calf’s head, and pick and walli it very clean. Get an earthen difh large enough to hold the head, and rub the infide of the difh with butter. Lay fome long iron fkewers acrofs the top of the difh, and lay the head on them. Skewer up the meat in the middle, that it may not touch the difh, and then grate fome nutmeg on every part of it, a few fweet herbs, fhred ffnall, fome crumbs of bread, and a little lemon- peel cut fine. Then flour it all over, and having ftuck pieces of butter in the eyes, and on different parts of the head, flour it again. Let it be well baked, of a fine brown. You may throw a little pepper and fait over it, and put into the difh a piece of beef cut fmall, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, a blade of mace, fome whole pepper, two cloves, a pint of water, and boil the brains with fome fage. When the head be enough, lay it on a difh, and put it before the fire to keep warm; then ftir all together in the difh, and put it in a fauce- pan ; then ftrain it off, and put it into the faucepan again. Put into it a piece of butter rolled in flour, the fage and the brains chopped fine, a fpoonful of catchup, and two fpoonfuls of red wine. Boil them together, take the brains, beat them well, and mix them with the fauce. Pour all into the difh, and fend it to table. The tongue muff: be baked in the head, and not cut out, as the head will then lie in the difh more handfomely. Pigs. WHEN neceffity obliges you to bake a pig, lay it in a difh, flour it well all over, and rub the pig over with butter. Butter the difh in which you intend to put it, and put it in the oven. Take it out as foon as it be enough; and having rubbed it over with a bur cloth, put it into the oven again till it be dry; then E 4 take BAKING. 56 take it out, lay it in a difh, and cut it up. Take off the fat from the difh it was baked in, and fome good gravy will remain at the bottom. Add to this a little veal gravy, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and boil it up; put it into the difh,,with the brains and fage in the belly. Salmon. CUT a piece of faltnon in dices of an inch thick, and make a forcemeat as follows : take fome of the flefh of the falmon, and the fame quantity of the meat of an eel, with a few mufhrooms. Seafon it with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and cloves. Beat it all together till it is very fine. Boil the crumb of a halfpenny roll in milk, beat it with four eggs till it be thick ; then let it cool, and mix it all together with four raw eggs. Take the fkin from the falmon, and lay the dices in a difh. Cover every dice with the forced meat, pour fome melted but¬ ter over them, and add a few crumbs of bread. Lay a cruft round the difh, and flick oyflers round it. Put it into an oven, and when it is of a fine brown, pour over it a little melted butter, with fome red wine boiled in it, and the juice of a lemon. Carp. HAVING fcaled, wafhed, and cleaned a brace of carp properly, get an earthen pan deep enough for them to lie in properly; and having buttered the pan a little, lay in the carp. Seafon them with a little black and white pepper, mace, cloves, nutmegs, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy; pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them clofe, and put them into a hot oven. If they be large, they will require an hour baking; but if they be final], a lefs time will do them. When they be enough, take them up carefully, and lay them in a difh. Set it over hot water to keep it hot, and cover it clofe. Pour all the liquor in which they were baked into a faucepan; let it boil a minute or two, ftrain it, and add half a pound of butter, rolled in flour. Keep ftirring it all the time it is boiling ; fqueeze in she juice of half a lemon, and put in a proper quantity of BAKING. <7 of fait, obferving to fkim all' the fat off the liquor. Pour the Puce over the fifh, lay the roes round them, and garnifh with lemon. Cod's Head. MAKE the head very clean, and lay it *n the pan, which you mult firft rub round with butter. Put in a bundle of lweet herbs, an onion ftuck with cloves, three or four blades of mace, half a large fpoonful of black and white pepper, a nutmeg bruifed, a quart of water, a little piece of lemon-peel, and a little piece of horfe- radifh. Dull the head with flour, grate a little nutmeg over it, (tick a piece of butter on various parts of it, and fprinkle rafpings all over it; put it into the oven, and when it be enough, take it out of that difn, and lay it carefully in the difh, in which you intend to ferve it up. Set the difh over boiling water, and cover it up clofe, to prevent its getting cold. In the mean time, as expeditioufly as you can, pour all the liquor out of the difh, in which it was baked, into a faucepan, and let it boil three or four minutes; then ftrain it, and put to it a gill of red wine, tw r o fpoonfuls of catchup, a pint of fhrimps, half a pint of oyfters, a fpoonful of mufhroom pickle, a quarter of a pound of butter, rolled in flour, and ftill all together till it be thick and boils j then ftrain it, and pour it into the difh, and have ready feme toaft, cut three corner ways, and fried crifp. Stick pieces of the toaft about the head and mouth, and lay the remainder round the head. Garnifh with lemon notched, feraped horfe-radifh, and parfley crifped in a plate before the fire. Herrings. EIAVING fealed, wafhed, and dried your herrings properly, lay them on a board, and take a little black and Jamaica pepper, a few cloves, and plenty of fait; mix them together, and rub the fifh all over with it. Kay them ftraight in a pot, cover them with allegar, tie a ftrong paper over the top, and bake them in a mode¬ rate oven. They may be eaten either hot or cold, and they will keep two or three months, if the allegar be good. Sprats. m 5* BROILING. Sprats. IF fprats are properly prepared and baked, they will eat well, and keep fome time. For this purpofe, rub your fprats with fait and pepper, and to every two pints of vinegar, put one pint of red wine. DifTolve a penny¬ worth of cochineal, lay your fprats in a deep earthen difh, and pour in as much vinegar, red wine, and cochineal, as will cover them. Tie a paper over them, #nd fet them in an oven all night. CHAP. VI, BROILING. Preliminary Hints and Ohfervations. B EFORE you lay your meat on the gridiron, be careful that your fire be very clear. Turn your meat quickly while it be broiling, and have a difh, placed on a chaffing-difh of hot coals, to put your meat in as fall as it be ready, and carry it hot and covered to table. Obferve never to bafte any thing on the grid¬ iron, becaufe that may be the means of burning it, and making it fmoky. Beef Steaks. THE bed beef fteaks are thofe cut off a rump, apd fthould not be more than half an inch in thicknefs. Rub the gridiron with beef fuet, and let the fire be clear. "When the gridiron be hot, lay your fteaks on it, and lpt them broil till they begin to look brown. Then turn them, and when the other fide be brown, lay them on a hot difh, with a flice of butter between each fleak, and lprinkle a little pepper and fait over them. Let them ftand two or three minutes, and in the mean time (lice BROILING. 59 (lice a fhalot, as thin as poffible, into a fpoonful of water. Lay your fteaks again on the gridiron, and keep them turning, till they be enough. Put them on your difh, pour the water and fhalot among them, and ferve them up. Mutton Chops. TAKE a loin of mutton, and cut chops from it about half an inch thick, and cut off the fkin, and part of the fat. Rub your gridiron with fuet as foon as it be hot, and lay on your chops. Keep turning them often, and take great care that the fat which falls from them, do not make the fire blaze and fmoke your chops. Put them into a difh as foon as you think they be done, and rub them with butter. Slice a fhalot very thin into a fpoonful of water, and pour it on them, with a fpoon-* ful of mufhroom catchup, and a little fait. Pork Chops. THE fame rules we have laid down for broiling mutton, will hold good with refpedt to pork chops, with this difference only, that pork requires more broiling than mutton. As foon as they be enough, put a little good gravy to them, and ftrew a little fage, rubbed fine, over them, which will give them an agreeable flavour. Chickens. HAVING flitted your chickens down the back, feafon them with pepper and fait, and lay them on the gridiron, over a clear fire, and at a great diflance. Let the infide continue next the fire till it be nearly half done. Then turn them, taking care that the flefhy fides do not burn, and let them broil till they are of a fine brown. Have good gravy fauce, with fome mufh- rooms, and garnifh them with lemon and the liver broiled, and the gizzards cut, flafhed, and broiled, with pepper and fait j or you may ufe any other fauce you fancy. Pigeons. WHEN you fet about to broil pigeons, take care that your fire be clear. Take fome parfley fhred fine, a piece 6 o BROILING. a piace of butter as big as a walnut, with a little pepper and fait, and put it into their bellies. Tie them at both ends, and put them on the gridiron. Or you may fplit and broil them, having firft feafoned them with pepper arid fait. Serve them up with a little parfley and butter in the difh. Weavers. GUT them, and wafh them clean; dry them in a clean cloth, and flour them ; then broil them, and have melted butter in a cup. They are a fine fifii, and cut as firm as a foal; but you muft take care not to hurt yourfelf with the two fharp bones in the head. Cod. CUT the cod in Dices of aboyt two inches thick, and dry and flour them well. Make a good clear fire, rub the gridiron with a piece of chalk, and fet it high from the fire. Turn them often till they be quite enough, and of a fine brown. They require a great deal of care to prevent them from breaking. Lobfter or fhrimp fauce. Crimped Cod. PUT a gallon of pump-water into a pot, and fet it on the fire, with a handful of fait. Boil it up feveral times, and keep it clean fcumroed. When it is well cleared from the fcum, take a middling cod, as frefh as poflible, and throw it into a tub of frefh pump-water. Let it lie a few minutes, and then cut it into Dices two inches thick. Throw thefe into the boiling brine, and let it boil briflcly a few minutes. Then take out the Dices, take great care not to break them, and lay them on a fieve to drain. When they are well dried, flour them, and lay them at a diftance upon a very good fire jo broil. Lobfter or fhrimp fauce. dr out. CLEAN and wafh, and dry them well in a cloth; tie them round with packthread from top to bottom, to keep them entire and in fhape. Then melt feme butter, with / BROILING. 61 wkh a good deal of bafket fait. Pour it all over the trout till it is perfectly covered; then put it on a clear fire, at a great diflance, that it may do gradually. For fauce, wafh and bone an anchovy, and cut it very fmall; chop a large fpoonful of capers; melt fome butter, with a little flour, pepper, fait, and nutmeg, and half a fpoon¬ ful of vinegar. When the trout is done, lay it in a warm difh, and pour the fauce over it. Ccd-Sounds. LAY them a few minutes in hot water; then take them out, and rub them well with fait, and take off the fkin and black dirt, when they will look white. After this, put them into water, and give them a boil. Take them out, flour them well, pepper and fait them, and then put them on the gridiron. As foon as they be enough, lay them on your difh, and pour melted butter and milliard over them. Remember that they mull be broiled whole. Lebjler. WHEN the lobfters are boiled, fplit their tails and chines, crack the claws, and pepper and fait them. Take out their bodies, and what is called the lady. Then put them again into the fhells, and then upon the gridiron over a clear fire, as alfo the tails and the claws. Bafte them with butter, and fend them to table, with melted butter in a boat. Mackerel. HAVING cleafied your mackerel, fplit them down the back, and feafon them with pepper and fait, fome mint, parfley, and fennel chopped very fine. Flour them, and fry them of a fine light brown, and put them on a difh and drainer. Let your fauce be fennel and butter, and garnifh them with parfley. If you choofe to broil your mackerel whole, wafh them clean, cut off their heads, and pull out their roes at the neck end. Boil their roes in a little water; then bruife them with a fpoon, beat up the yolk of an egg, a little nutmeg, a little lemon-peel cut fine, fome thyme, fome BROILING. 61 fome parfley boiled and chopped fine, a little fait and pepper, and a few crumbs of bread. Mix thefe well together, and fill the fifh with them. Flour them well, and broil them nicely. Butter, catchup, and walnut pickle, will make a proper fauce. Salmon. CUT your frefh falmon into thick pieces, and then flour them and broil them. Lay them in your difh, and ferve them up with plain melted butter in a boat. Eds . HAVING fkinned, gutted, and walked your eels, dry them with a cloth, and rub them with the yolk of an egg. Strew crumbs of bread over them, fome chopped fage and parfley, and feafon them with pepper and fait. Bafte them well with butter, and broil them on a grid¬ iron. Your fauce mult be parfley and butter. Eels pitch-codied. HAVING fkinned and cleanfedyour eels as before, fprinkle them with pepper, fait, and a little dried fage. Turn them backward and forward, and fkewer them. Rub your gridiron with beef fuet, and broil them till they are of a fine brown. Put them on your difh, ferve them up with melted butter, and lay fried parfley round the difh. Haddocks and Whitings. PIAVING gutted and walked your fifh, dry them with a cloth, and rub a little vinegar over them, which will contribute to preferve the fkin whole. Dredge them well with Hour, and rub your gridiron with beef fuet. Let your gridiron be very hot when you lay your fifh on, otherwife they will flick to it. Turn them two or three times while they are broiling, and when they be enough, ferve them up with melted butter, and lay pickles round them. Another method is, when you have cleaned and dried your fifh as before directed, put them in a tin oven, and fet them before a quick fire. Take them from BROILING. 63 from the fire as foon as the fkins begin to rile, and hav¬ ing beaten up an egg, rub it over them with a feather. Sprinkle a few crumbs of bread over them, dredge them well with flour, and rub your gridiron when hot with fuet or butter; but it muft be very hot before you lay your fifli on it. When you have turned them, rub a little butter over them, and keep turning them, as the fire may require, till they be enough, which may be known by their browning. Serve them up with either llirimp fauce, or melted butter, and garnifh them with muflels, or red cabbage. Mullets. SCALE and gut your mullets, and cut gafhes in their fides. Dip them in melted butter, and broil them at a great diftance from the fire. For fauce, anchovy, with capers, and a little Seville orange or lemon fqueezed into it. Herrings . SCALE, gut, and cut off their heads ; wafh them dean, and dry them in a cloth; flour them, and broil them. Take the heads and mafh them, and boil them in fmall-beer or ale, with a little whole pepper and onion. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, (train it offj thicken it with butter and flour, and a good deal of muftard. Lay the fifh in the difh, and pour the fauce into a boat. Potatoes. HAVING firft boiled them, peel them, cut them into two, and broil them till they be brown on both fides. Then lay them in the plate or difh, and pour melted butter over them. E gg s - HAVING cut a toafi: round a quartern loaf, brown it, lay it on your difh, butter it, and very carefully break fix or eight eggs on the toaft. Take a red hot fhovel, and hold it over them. When they be done, fqueeze a Seville orange over them, grate a little nut¬ meg over it, and ferve it up for a fide-plate. Or you may # frying. 64 may poach your eggs, and lay them on a toad; or toad your bread crifp, and pour a little boiling water over it. Seafon it with a little fait, and then lay your poached eggs on it. CHAP. VII. FRYING. Preliminary Hints and Objeruations. », B E careful always to keep your frying-pan clean, ancf fee that it is properly tinned. When you fry any fort of fifh, firft dry them in a cloth, and then flour them. Put into your frying-pan plenty of dripping or hog’s lard, and let it be boiling hot before you put in your fifh. Butter is not fo good for this purpofe, as it is apt to burn and blacken the fifh, and make them foft. -When you have fried your fifh, lay them in a difh or hair fieve to drain, before you fend them up to table. When you fry parfley, be fure to pick it very cautioufly, wafh it well, dip it into cold water, and throw it into a pan of boiling fat. ^his will make it very crifp, and of a fine green, provided you do not let it remain too long in the pan. Venifon. BONE your venifon, if it be either the neck or bread but if it be the fhoulder, the meat mud be cut off the bone in dices. Make fome gravy with the bones; then take the meat and fry it of a light brown; take it up, and keep it hot before the Are. Put fome flour to the butter in the pan, and keep Airring it till it be quite thick and brown. Take care it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of fine fugar beat to powder, put in FRYING. 65 in the gravy that came from the bones, and fome red wine. Make it the thicknefs of a fine cream ; fqueeze in the juice of a lemon, warm the venifon in it, put it in the dilh, and pour the fauce over it. Ox 'Tongues . BOIL them till they be tender, cut them into dices, and feafon them with a little nutmeg, cinnamon, and fugar; beat the yolk of an egg well, and with a feather rub it over the dices of tongue, adding a little lemon juice. Make fome butter boiling hot in the frying pan, which it is when it has done hiding, and put in the dices. When they are enough, ferve them up with white wine, fugar, and melted butter, well beaten in a boat. Ox Feet. LET them boil till they be tender; then fkin and fplit them, and take out the bones, and fry them in butter. When they have fried a little, put in fome mint and pardey flired fmall, a little fait, and fome beaten butter; beat the yolks of eggs, fome mutton gravy and vinegar, the juice of a lemon or orange, and nutmeg. Lay it in the difn, and pour the fauce over it. Some put a little fhred onion in it. Beef Steaks . HAVING cut your fteaks in the fame manner as for broiling, put them into a llewpan, with a good piece of butter, let them over a very dow fire, and keep turning them till the butter becomes of the confidence of white gravy. Pour it into a bafon, and add more butter to them. When they are nearly fried, pour all the gravy into a bafon, and put more butter in your pan. Fry your deaks over a brifk fire till they be of a light brown, and then take them out of the pan. Put them into a pewter didi made hot, dice a lhalot among them, and put in fome of the gravy that was drawn from them, and pour it hot upon them. Another method is, take rump-deaks, pepper and fait them, and fry them in a little butter very quick, F and 66 FRYING. and brown; then put them into a difh, and pour the fat out of the frying-pan. Take half a pint of hot gravy, half a pint of hot water, and put it into the pan. Add to it a little butter rolled in flour, a little pepper and fait, and two or three fhalots chopped fine. Boil them up in your pan for two minutes, and pour it over the fteaks. You may garnilh. with a little feraped horfe- radifh round your difh. Loin or Neck of Lamb. HAVING cut your lamb into chops, rub both fides of them with the yolk of an egg, and fprinkle fome crumbs of bread over them, mixed with a little parfley, thyme, marjoram, winter favory, and a little lemon-peel, all chopped very fine. Fry them in butter till they are of a nice light brown, and garnifli with fried parfley. Veal Cutlets. CUT your veal into pieces about the thicknefs of half a crown, and as long as you pleafe. Dip them in the yolk of an egg, and drew over them crumbs of bread, a few fweet herbs, fome lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg, and fry them in frefh butter. While they are frying, make a little gravy, and when the meat be done, take it out, and lay it in a difh before the fire; then (hake a little lour into the pan, and flir it round. Put in a little gravy, fqueeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal. Make ufe of lemon for your garnifh. Cold Veal. CUT your veal into pieces of the thicknefs of a half-crown, and as long as you pleafe. Dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread, with a few fweet herbs, and Hired lemon-peel in it. Grate a little nutmeg over them, and fry them in frefh butter. The butter mull be hot, juft enough to fry them in. In the mean time make a little gravy of the bone of the veal, and when the meat be fried, take it out with a fork, and lay it in a difh before the fire. Then lhake a little flour into the pan, and flir it round. Then put in FRYING. 67 in a little gravy, fqueeze in a little lemon, and pour it over the veal. Garnifh with lemon. Sweetbreads. CUT them into long dices, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over them with a feather. Make a feafoning of pepper, fait, and grated bread; dip them into it, and fry them in butter. For fauce, catchup and butter, with gravy, or lemon fauce. Garnilh with fmall dices of toafted bacon and crifped pardey. 'Tripe. CUT your tripe in long pieces, and of about three inches wide; put it into fome fmall-beer batter, or yolks of eggs, and have a large pan of good fat. Fry it till it be brown; then take it out, and put it to drain, and ferve it up with plain butter in a boat. Saujages. TAKE fix apples, and dice four of them as thick as a crown-piece ; cut the other two in quarters, and fry them with the faufages till they be brown. Lay the faufages in the middle of the didi, and the apples round them. Garnilh with the quartered apples. Saufages fried, and dewed cabbage, make a good difn. Pleat cold peafe-pudding in the pan, lay it in the dilh, and the faufages round; heap the pudding in the middle, and lay the faufages all round up edge-ways, except one in the middle at length. Potatoes. CUT your potatoes into thin dices, as big as a crown-piece, and fry them brown. Lay them in a difh or plate, and pour melted butter, fack, and fugar, over them. Thefe are a pretty corner plate. Artichokes. HAVING blanched them in water, flour them, and fry them in frefh butter. Lay them in your difh, and pour melted butter over them. Or you may put a little red wine into the butter, and feafon with nutmeg, pepper, and fait. F 2 Celery . 68 F R Y I N G. Celery. CUT off the green tops of fix or eight heads of ce¬ lery, and take off the outfide fcalks. Wafh them well, and pare the roots clean. Then have ready half a pint of white wine, the yolks of three eggs beat fine, and a little fait and nutmeg. Mix all well together with flour into a batter, and dip every head into the batter, and. fry them in butter. When they be enough, lay them in your difh, and pour melted butter over them. ' 'Turbots . TH E turbot muff be fmall; cut it acrofs as if it were ribbed; when it is quite dry, flour it, and put it in a large frying-pan, with boiling lard enough to cover it. Fry it till it is brown, and then drain it. Clean the pan, put into it claret or white wine, almoft enough to cover it, anchovy, fait, nutmeg, and a little ginger. Put in the fifli, and let it flew till half the liquor is wafted. Then take it out, and put in a piece of butter roiled in flour, and a minced lemon. Let them fim- mer till of a proper thicknefs; rub a hot difli with a piece of elchalot, lay the turbot in the difh, and pour the hot fauce over it. Soles . HAVING fkinned your foies in the fame manner you do eels, except taking off their heads, which muft not be done, rub them over with an egg, and ftrew over them crumbs of bread. Fry them over a brifk fire in hog’s lard till they be brown. Garnifh with green pickles, and -ferve them up with melted butter. Smelts. i DRAW the guts out at the gills, but leave in the melt or roe; dry them with a cloth, beat an egg, rub it over them with a feather, and ftrew crumbs of bread over them. Fry them with hog’s lard or beef fuet, and put in your fifli when it be boiling hot. Shake them a little, and fry them till they be of a fine brown. Drain them on a difh, or in a fieve ; and when you difli them, put a balbn bottom up, in the middle of your difh, and F R Y I N G. 69 and lay the tails of your fifh on it. Fry a handful of parfley in the manner directed in the fir ft article of this chapter. Oyfters. WHEN you intend to fry your oyfters, you muft al¬ ways choofe thofe of the larger kind. Take the yolks ot two eggs, and beat them ; put to them a little nutmeg, a blade of mace pounded, a fpoonful of flour, and a little fait; dip your oyfters therein, and fry them in hog’s lard till they be of a light brown. They are a proper garnifh for moft made difhes, as well as for cofis and calves heads. Carp. SCALE and gut your carp, then wafli them clean, lay them in a cloth to dry, flour them, and fry them of a fine light brown. Take fome crufts, cut N three- corner ways, and fry them and the roes. When your fifh be done, lay them on a coarfe cloth to drain, and prepare anchovy fauce, with the juice of lemon. Lay your carp on the difh, the roes on each fide, and gar¬ nifh with lemon, and the fried toaft. 1 Tench, CLEAN your fifh, flit them along the backs, and with the point cff your knife raife the fiefh from the bone. Cut the fkin acrofs at the head and tail, ftrip it off, and take out the bone. Take another tench, and mince the flefh Email with mufhrooms, cives, and par- fley. Seafon them with fait, pepper, beaten mace, nut¬ meg, and a few lavoury herbs minced Email. Mix thefe well together, pound them in a mortar, with crumbs of bread, (in quantity about the fize of two eggs) foaked in cream, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a piece of butter. When thefe have been well pounded, fluff your fifh with it. Put clarified butter into a pan, Eet it over the fire, and when it be hot, flour your fifh, and put them into the pan one by one. Having fried them till they be brown, take them up, and lay them in a coarfe cloth before the fire to keep hot. Then pour all the fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of F 3 butter,, 70 FRYING. butter, and fhake fome flour into the pan. Keep it llirring with a fpoon till the butter be a little brown, and then pour in half a pint of white wine. Stir them to¬ gether, and pour in half a pint of boiling water, an onion ftuck with cloves, a bundle of fweet herbs, and two blades of mace. Cover thefe clofe, and let them flew as foftly as you can for a quarter of an hour; then drain off the liquor, and put it into the pan again, adding two fpoonfuls of catchup, an ounce of truffles or morels, boiled tender in half a pint of water, a few mufhrooms, and half a pint of oyflers, clean wafhed in their own liquor. When you find your fauce is properly heated, and very good, put your tench into the pan, and make them quite hot; then take them out, lay them into the difh, and pour your fauce over them. Serve them up garnifhed with lemon. Carp may be dreffed in the fame manner, as may tench in the manner above defcribed for carp. Eels. MAKE your eels very clean, cut them into pieces, and having feafoned them with pepper and fait, flour them, and fry them. Let your fauce be plain melted butter, with the juice of lemon ; but be careful to drain them properly before you lay them in the difh. Lampreys. BLEED them, and fave the blood; wafh them in hot water to take off the flime, and cut them in pieces. When they be nearly fried enough, pour out the fat, put in a little white wine, and give the pan a fhake round. Seafon with pepper, fweet herbs, a few capers, a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and the blood. Shake the pan often, and cover it clofe. Take them out as foon as they be enough, drain the fauce, and give it a quick boil. Then fqueeze in a lemon, and pour it over the fifh. Garnifh with lemon. Mullets. SCALE and gut them; melt fome butter, and pour it into a deep difh. Score the mullets acrofs the 2 back. STEWS AND HASHES. 7 i back, and dip them into the butter. Then fet on in a llewpan fome butter, and let it clarify. Fry the mul¬ lets in it, and when they are enough, lay them on a warm dilh. For fauce, anchovy and butter. Herrings. H A\ IN G fcaled, walked, and dried your herrings properly, lay them leparately on a board, and place them at the fire two or three minutes before they be wanted, which will prevent their flicking to the pan. Dredge your fifh with flour ; and when your butter boils in the pan, put in your fifh, a few at a time, and fry them over a brifk fire. As foon as they are fufficientiy fried,, fet their tails up one againft another in the middle of the difh, and fry a large handful of parlley crifp; take it out before it lofes its colour, lay it round them, and ferve them up with parfley fauce ifi a boat. Some fry onions, lay them round the difh, and make onion fauce ; and others cut off the heads of the herrings after they are fried, chop them, and put them into a fauce- pan, with ale, pepper, fait, and an anchovy; they then thicken it v/ith flour and butter, flrain it, and put it into a fauce-boat. -Tou may ufe either of thefe .methods, as you like. C H A P. VIII. STEWS and HASHES. Rump of Beef. I N order to flew a rump of beef properly, you mu ft firfl half roail it, and then put it into a large lauce- pan, with two quarts of water, one of red wine, two or three blades of mace, a fhalot, two Ipoonfuls of walnut F 4 catchup. » 72 STEWS AND HASHES. catchup, one of lemon pickle, two of browning, and a little chyan pepper and fait. Let thefe ftew over a gentle fire for two hours, ciofely covered; then take out your beef, and lay it on a deep difh, fkim off the fat, and ftrain the gravy. Put into it an ounce of morels, half a pint of mufhrooms, and thicken your gravy, and pour it over your beef. Garnifh with horfe-radifh, and lay forcemeat balls round it. Rump of Beef or Brijket , the French way. CUT off the meat of a rump of beef from the bone: then take half a pint of white port, and half a pint of red; a little vinegar, foime cloves and mace, half a nut¬ meg beat fine, parfley chopped, and all forts of fweet herbs, and a little pepper and fait. Mix the herbs, fpice, and wine, all together. Lay your beef in an earthen pan, put the mixture over it, and let it lay all night. Then take the beef, and put it into a ftew-pan, with two quarts of good gravy, the wine, &c. an onion chopped fine, fome carrot, and two or three bay-leaves. You may put in fome thick rafhers of bacon at the bot¬ tom of your pan. Stew it very gently for five hours, if it weigh twelve pounds ; but if it weigh only eight or nine pounds, four hours will be fufficient. Mind, however, to keep the ftew-pan ciofely covered. Then take the meat out, and ftrain the liquor through a fieve.. Skim all the fat off, put it into your ftew-pan with fome truffles and morels, artichoke bottoms blanched and cut in pieces, or fome carrots and turnips cut as for harrico of mut¬ ton. Boil it up, feafon it with a little chyan pepper, and fait to your palate. Then put in the meat juft to make it hot, difh it up, and garnifh with lemon and beet-root, or fried fippets. Beef Gobbets. CUT any piece of beef, except the leg, into pieces about the fize of' a pullet’s egg, and put them into a ftew-pan. Cover them with water, let them ftew, fkim them clean, and when they have ftewed an hour, take mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied loofely in a muf¬ fin rag, and fome celery cut fmall. Tut them into the 5 pan N STEWS AND HASHES. 73 pan with fome fait, turnips and carrots pared and cut in dices, a little pardey, a bundle of fweet herbs, and a large cruft of bread. You may put in an ounce of bar¬ ley or rice, if you like it. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew till it be tender. Take out the herbs, fpices, and bread, and have ready a French roll cut in four. Didi up all together, and fend it to table. Beef Steaks. HAVING procured rump fteaks for this purpofe, pepper and fait them, and lay them in a ftew-pan. Pour in half a pint of water, a blade or two of mace, two or three cloves, an anchovy, a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, a piece of butter rolled in dour, a glafs of white wine, and an onion. Cover them clofe, and let them ftew foftly till they are tender; then take out the fteaks, dour them, fry them in frefh butter, and pour oft* all the fat. Then ftrain the fauce they were ftewed in, and pour it into the pan, and tofs it all up together till the fauce be quite hot and thick; and, if you choofe to enrich it, you may add a quarter of a pint of oyfters. Lay your fteaks into the difh, pour the fauce over them, and gar- nifh with fome kind of pickle. Ox Tongue. ST.EW it in juft water enough to cover it, and let it dmmer two hours. Peel it, and put it into the liquor again, with fome pepper, fait, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a bit of dne cloth ; a few capers chop¬ ped, turnips, and carrots diced; half a pint of beef gravy, a little white wine, and a bunch of fweet herbs. Let it ftew very gently until it be tender; then take out the fpice and fweet herbs, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in dour. Mutton. WHEN you intend to hadr your mutton, you muft cut it in dices, and put a pint of gravy or broth into a toffing-pan, with a fpoonful of mudiroom catchup, and one of browning. Add to it a diced onion, and a little pepper and fait. Put it over the dre, and thicken it with STEWS AND HASHES. 74 with butter and flour. When it boils, put in your mut¬ ton ; keep (baking it till it be perfedlly hot, and then ferve it up in a loup diffl. Another method to hafh mutton is, cut it as thin as you can, brew a little flour over it, have ready fome gravy, in which have been boiled fweet herbs, with fome onions, pepper, and fait. Put in your meat, and with it a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour, a little fait, a fhalot cut fine, and a few capers cut fine. Tofs all to¬ gether for a minute or two, and have ready fome bread toabed, and cut into thin fippets. Lay them round the difn, pour in your hafh, and garnifh with pickles and horfe-radifh. To toab the fippets may be confidered as an improvement. Lamb's Head. IN order to flew a lamb’s head, wafh it and pick it very clean. Lay it in water for an hour, take out the brains, and with a (harp knife carefully extrafl the bones and the tongue ; but be careful to avoid breaking the meat. Then take out the eyes. Take two pounds of veal and two pounds of beef fuet, a very little thyme, a good piece of lemon peel minced, a nutmeg grated, ' and two anchovies. Llaving chopped all thefe well to¬ gether, grate two bale rolls, and mix all with the yolks of four eggs. Save enough of this meat to make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of frefh mufhrooms, clean peeled and walked, the yolks of fix eggs chopped, half a pint of oyflers clean walked, or pickled cockles. Mix all thefe together; but firfl flew your oyllers, and' put to them two quarts of gravy, with a blade or two of mace. Tie the head with packthread, cover it clofe, and let it flew two hours. While this is doing, beat up the brains with fome lemon-peel cut fine, a little chop¬ ped parfley, half a nutmeg grated, and the yolk of an egg. Fry the brains in little cakes, in boiling dripping, and fry the balls, and keep them both hot. Take half an ounce of truffles and morels, and brain the gravy die head was bewed in. Put to it the truffles and mo¬ rels, and a few mufhrooms, and boil all together ; then put in the reb of the brains that are not fried, and bew them STEWS AND HASHES. 75 them together for a minute or two. Pour this over the head, lay the fried brains and balls round it, and gar- nidi with lemon. Knuckle of Veal. BEFORE you begin your flew, take care that the pot or faucepan be very clean, and lay at the bottom of it four dean wooden Ikewers. Walk and clean the knuckle carefully, and lay it in the pot, with two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a little piece of thyme, a fmall onion, a cruft of bread, and two quarts of water. Having covered it down clofe, make it boil, and let it only fimmer for two hours. When it be enough, take it up, lay it in a di£h, and (train the broth on it. Calf's Head. T O hath a calf’s head properly requires fome care, and be Cure firft to wafh it exceedingly clean. Boil it fifteen minutes, and when it be cold, cut the meat into thin broad dices, and put it into a tofling-pan, with two quarts of gravy. When it has ftewed three quarters of an hour, put to it an anchovy, a little mace beaten, and a proper quantity of chyan pepper, of which your tafte muft be the judge; alfo two fpoonfuls of lemon- pickle, the fame quantity of walnut catchup, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a dice or two of lemon, a bundle of fweet herbs, and a glafs of white wine. Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with fome flour, and put if in a few minutes before the head be enough. Put the brains into hot water, and beat them fine in a bafon; then add to them two eggs, a fpoonful of flour, a piece of lemon-peel cut fine, and a little parfley, thyme, and fage, chopped fmall. Beat them all well together, and drew in a little pepper and fait; then drop them in little cakes into a panful of boiling lard ; fry them to a light brown, and lay them on a fieve to drain. Take your hafh out of the pan with a fifh dice, and lay it on your difli. Strain your gravy over it, and lay upon it a few muflirooms, forcemeat balls, the yolks of four e gg s » 7 6 STEWS and HASHES. eggs, boiled hard, and the brain cakes. Lemon and pickles may be your garnifh. Another method of hafhing a calf’s head is as fol¬ lows : When you have boiled it almoft enough, take the beft half of the head, and with a fharp knife, take the flefh and eyes nicely from the bones. Lay the meat in a little deep difli before a good fire, and be careful that no allies fall into it. Then hack it crofs and crofs with a knife, and grate fome nutmeg all over it. Take the yolks of two eggs, a little fait and pepper, a few fweet herbs, fome crumbs of bread, and a little lemon- peel chopped very fine. Bafte the head twice with but¬ ter, and keep the difh turning, that all parts of the head may be equally brown. Cut the other half of the head and tongue into thin bits, and fet on a faucepan, with a pint of drawing gravy, a little bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, a little pepper and fait, two fhalots, and a glafs of white wine. Having boiled thefe together a few mi¬ nutes, ftrain them through a fieve, and put them into a clean ftew-pan with the hafh. Before you put the meat in, flour it, and add a few mufhrooms, a lpoon- ful of pickle, two fpoonfuls of catchup, and a few truf¬ fles and morels. Having ftirred all thefe together for a few minutes, beat up half the brains, and put them in, with a little piece of butter rolled in flour, when it muff be again ftirred. Take the other half of the brains, and beat them up with a little lemon-peel cut fine, a little grated nutmeg, a little beaten mace, fome thyme flared fmall, a little parfley, the yolk of an egg; and, having fome good dripping boiling in a ftew-pan, fry the brains in little cakes, about the fize of a crown-piece. Dip about twenty oyfters in the yolks of eggs, and fry them; toaft a few dices of bacon, and fry fome forcemeat balls. Heat a pewter difh over a few clear coals, or a china one over a pan of hot water, and pour your hafh into it ; then lay in it the toafted head ; icatter the forcemeat balls over the hafh, and garnifh with the fried oyfters, the fried brains, and fome lemon. Throw the reft over the hafh, and lay the bacon round the difh. If STEWS AND HASHES, 77 If you wifh to hafh a calf’s head white, proceed thus. Take half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, a little beaten mace, a little nutmeg, and a little fait. Throw into your hafh a few mufhrooms, truffles, and morels, firft parboiled, a few artichoke bottoms, and afparagus tops, (if they be in feafon) a large piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolks of two eggs, half a pint of cream, and a fpoonful of mufhroom catchup. Stir thefe all to¬ gether till it become of a tolerable thicknefs, and pour it into the diffl. Lay the other half of the head, as abovementioned, in the middle, and garniffl as in the preceding article. Hajhed Veal. CUT your veal into round thin dices, of the fize of a half-crown, and put them into a faucepan, with a lit¬ tle gravy. Put to it fome lemon-peel cut exceedingly fine, and a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle. Put it on the fire, and thicken it with butter and flour. Put in your veal as foon as it boils, and juft before you diffl it up, put in a fpoonful of cream, and lay fippets round the diffl. Minced Veal. HAVING cut your veal into dices, and then into fauare pieces, (but do not chop it) put it into a fauce¬ pan, with two or three fpoonfuls of gravy, a little pepper and fait, a dice of lemon, a good piece of butter rolled in dour, a tea-fpoonful of lemon pickle, and a large fpoonful of cream. Keep disking it over the fire till it boils ; but it muft not boil above a minute, as other- wife it will make the veal hard. Serve it up with dp- pets round the didi. Ox Palates. STEW them till they be tender, which muft be done by putting them into cold water, and letting them ftew foftly over a gentle fire, till they be as tender as you wiffl. Then take off the two fkins, cut them in pieces, and put them into either your made didi or foup, with cocks combs and artichoke bottoms cut Email. Garniffl STEWS AND HASHES. 78 Garnifh your difhes with lemon, fweet-breads Hewed and cut into little pieces. Neats ’Tongues whole. PUT two tongues in water juft fufficient to cover them, and let them ftew two hours. Then peel them, and put them in again with a pint of ftrong gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of fweet herbs, a little pepper and fait, fome mace, cloves, and whole pepper, tied in a muflin rag; a fpoonful of capers chopped, turnips and carrots diced, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let all ftew together very foftly over a flow fire for two hours, and then take out the fpice and fweet herbs, and fend the difh to table. You may, juft as you like, leave out the turnips and carrots, or boil them by themfelves, and lay them in a difh. Venifon. WHEN you hafh venifon, cut it in thin flices, and put it, with a large glafs of red wine, into a toffing-pan, with a fpoonful of mufhroom catchup, the fame of browning, an onion ftuck with cloves, and half an an¬ chovy chopped fmall. As foon as it boils, put in your venifon, and let it boil three or four minutes. Pour it into a foup-diih, and garnifh with red cabbage, or cur¬ rant jelly. Turkies or Fowls. WHEN you ftew a turkey or a fowl, put four clean fkewers at the bottom, and lay your turkey or fowl thereon. Put in a quart of gravy, a bunch of celery cut fmall and Wafhed very clean, and two or three blades of mace. Let it ftew gently till there remain only enough for fauce, and then add a large piece of butter, rolled in flour, two fpoonfuls of red wine, the fame quantity of catchup, and a fufficient quantity of pepper and fait to feafon it. Lay your turkey or fowl in the difh, pour the fauce over it, and fend it to table. Turkey Jtewed brown. BONE your turkey, and fill it with forcemeat, made in the following manner. Take the flefh of a fowl, half STEWS AND HASHES. 79 half a pound of veal, the flefh of two pigeons, and a pickled or dried tongue peeled. Chop thefe all toge¬ ther, and beat them in a mo'rtar, with the marrow of a beef bone, or a pound of the fat from a loin of veal. Seafon it with a little pepper and fait, two or three blades of mace, as many cloves, and half a nutmeg dried at a great diftance from the fire, and pounded. Mix all thefe well together, and fill your turkey with it. Then put it into a little pot that will juft hold it, having firft laid four or five fkewers at the bottom of the pot, to prevent the turkey flicking to it. Put in a quart of good beef and veal gravy, in which fweet herbs and fipice have been boiled, and cover it clofe. When it has ftewed half an hour, put in a glafs of white wine, a fpoonful of catchup, a large fpoonful of pickled mufh- rooms, and a few frefh ones, if they be in feafon a few truffles and morels, and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew half an hour longer. Get little French rolls ready fried, and get fome oyfters, and ftrain the liquor from them. Then put the oyfters and liquor into a faucepan, with a blade of mace, a little white wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them ftew till it be thick, and then fill the loaves. Lay the turkey in the difh, and pour the fauce over it. If there be any fat on the gravy, take it off, and lay the loaves on each fide of the turkey; but if you have no loaves, garnifh with lemon, and make ufe of oyfters dipped in butter and fried. Steived Chickens. TAKE two fine chickens, and half boil them. Then take them up in a pewter difh, and cut them up, fepa- rating every joint one from the other, and taking out the breaft bones. If the fowls do not produce liquor iufficient, add a few fpoonfuls of the water in which they were boiled, and put in a blade of mace, and a little fait. Cover it clofe with another difh, and fet it over a ftove or chafing-difh of coals. Let it ftew till the chickens be enough, and then fend them hot to the table. Gee/e So STEWS AND H A S H E So Geefe Giblets. CUT the neck in four pieces, and the pinions in two, and clean well, and Dice the gizzard. Let them flew in two quarts of water, or mutton broth, with a bundle of fweet herbs, a few pepper corns, three or four cloves, an anchovy, an onion, and a fpoonful of catchup. When the giblets feel tender, put in a fpoonful of cream, thicken if with flour and butter, lay fippets round it, and ferve it up in a foup-difh. Pheafants . STEW your pheafant in veal gravy, and let it flew till there be juft enough liquor left for fauce. Then fkim it, and put in artichoke bottoms'parboiled, fome cheftnuts roafced and blanched, a little beaten mace, and pepper and fait enough to feafon it, with a glals of wine. Thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, if it be not already thick enough. Squeeze in a little lemon; then pour the fauce over the pheafant, and put fome forcemeat balls into the difh. A good fowl, miffed with the head on, like a pheafant, will eat equally as good. O Woodcocks and Partridges. YOUR woodcock muft be cutup as for eating, and the entrails worked very fine with the back of a fpoon. Mix with them a fpoonful of red wine, the fame quan¬ tity of water, and half a fpoonful of allegar; cut an onion into llices, and pull it into rings ; roll a piece of butter in flour, and put all into your toffing-pan. Shake it over the fire till it boils, then put in your bird, and when it be thoroughly hot, lay it in your difh with fippets round, {train the fauce over it, and lay on the onions in rings. A partridge is drefied in the fame manner. Ducks Jiezved. YOU may lard it or not, as you like. Half roaft it, and then put it into a ftewpan, with a pint or more of good gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, onion chopped fmall, or fhalot, a.piece of lemon-peel, chyan - and fait. Stew it gently, clofe covered, till tender. Take out 81 > STEWS and HASHES, but the duck from the fauce, bod it up quick, pour it over the duck, and add truffles and morels, if agree¬ able. Wild Ducks hajhed. EIAVING cut up your duck as for eating, put it in a toffing-pan, with a fpoonful of good gravy, the fame of red wine; and an onion fliced exceedingly thin. When it has boiled two or three minutes, lay the duck in the diffl, and pour the gravy over it. You may add a tea- fpoonful of caper liquor, or a little browning; but re¬ member that the gravy muft not be thickened; Hares hajhed . T O haffl a hare, you muft cut it in fmall pieces, and if you have any of the pudding left, rub it fmall, and put to it a gill of red wine, the fame quantity of water, half an anchovy chopped fine; an onion ftuck with four cloves, and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in. flour. Shake thefe all together over a flow fire, till your hare is thoroughly hot; for it is a bad cuftom to let any kind of hafh boil longer, as it hardens the meat. Send your hare to table in a deep diffl; but before you fend it up, take out the onion, and lay fippets round the diffl; Jugged Hare. CUT your hare into little pieces, and lard them here and there with little flips of bacon. Seafon them with a little pepper and fait, and put them into an earthen jug, with a blade or two of mace, an onion ftuck with cloves, and a bundle of fweet herbs. Cover the jug clofe, that nothing may get in; fet it in a pot of boiling water, and three hours will do it. Then turn it out into the difh, take out the onion and fweet herbs, and fend it hot to table. As to the larding; you may omit it, if you pleafe. Stewed Peas and Lettuce. PUT a quart of green peas, two large cabbage-let¬ tuces, cut fmall acrofs, and waffled very clean, into a ftew-pan, with a quart of gravy, and ftew them till they' be tender. Put in fome butter rolled in Bour, and lev* G ‘ ion $ 2 STEWS AND HASHES. fon with pepper and (alt. As fqon as they be of a pro¬ per thicknefs, difh them up. Some chop them fine, and flew them with two or three rafhers of lean ham ; while others like them thickened with the yolks of four eggs. Cucumbers. IN order to flew cucumbers, proceed in the follow¬ ing manner. Having pared twelve, dice them as thick as a half-crown, and lay them in a coarfe cloth to drain. As foon as they be dry, flour them, and fry them in frefh butter till they be brown. Then take them out with an egg-flice, and lay them on a plate before the fire. Take a whole cucumber, cut a long piece out of the fide, and fcoop out all the pulp. Have ready fome fried onions, peeled and diced, and fried brown with the diced cucumber. Then fill the whole cucumber with the fried onions, and feafon with pepper and fait; then put on the piece that was cut out, and tie it round with packthread. Flour it, and fry it brown ; then take it cut of the pan, and keep it hot. Keep the pan on the fire, and while you are putting in a little flour with one hand, keep ftirring it with the other. When it be thick, put in two or three fpoonfuls of water, half a pint of white or red wine, and two fpoonfuls of catchup. Stir them together, and add three blades of mace, four cloves, half a nutmeg, and a little pepper and fait, all beat fine together. Stir it into the faucepan, and then throw in your cucumbers. Give them a tofs or two, then lay the whole cucumber in the middle, having firft untied it, the reft round it, and pour the fauce all over, Garnifli the difh with fried onions, and fend it to table. Pears . PARE fix pears, and either quarter them, or ftew them whole. Lay them in a deep earthen pan, with a few cloves, a piece of lemon-peel, a gill of red wine, and a quarter of a pound of fine fugar. If the pears be very large, they will require half a pound of fugar, and half a pint of red wine. Cover them clofe with brown paper, and ftew them in the oven till they be enough. STEWS AND HASHES. 8 3 enough. They may be ferved up hot or cold, and they make a pretty difh with one whole, the reft cut in quar¬ ters, and the cores taken out. Char doom. CUT them about fix inches long, firing them, and ilew them till they be tender. Then take them out, flour them, and fry them in butter till they be brown. Send them up, with melted butter in a cup. Or you may tie them up in bundles, and boil them like afpa- ragus. Put a toaft under them, and pour a little melted butter over them. Muflels. IT AVIN G wafhed your muflels very clean from the fand in two or three waters, put them into a ftewpan, and cover them clofe. Let them flew till the fhells be opened, and then take them out one by one, and pick them out of the fhells. Be fure to look under the tongue to fee if there be a crab, and if you find one, throw away that muflel. Having picked them all clean, put them into a faucepan, and to a quart of muflels, put half a pint of the liquor ftrained through a fieve; add a few blades of mace, a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour, and let them flew. Lay fome toafted bread round the difh, and pour in the muflels. Carp and 'Tench. CARP and tench may be ftewed in the following manner, and are a top difh for »a grand entertainment. Gut and fcale your carp or tench, and having dredged them with flour, fry them in dripping or good fuet, till they be brown. Put them into a ftewpan, with a quart of water, the like quantity of red wine, a large fpoon- ful of lemon pickle, the fame of browning, and the like of walnut catchup; add a little mufhroom powder, a proper quantity of chyan pepper, a large onion ftuck with cloves, and a flick of horfe-radifh. Cover your pan clofe, that none of the fleam may efcape, and let them flew gently over a ftove fire, till the gravy be re¬ duced to barely the quantity fufficient to cover them in G 2 the g 4 STEWS AND HASHES. the diih. Then take them out, and put them on the difh you intend to ferve them up in. Put the gravy on the fire, and having thickened it with a large piece of butter, and fome dour, boil it a little, and {train it over your fifh. You. may garnifh them with pickled mufh- rooms and {craped horfe-radifh, with a {prig of myrtle, or a bunch of pickled berberries in their mouths. Carp Jlewed white . HAVING fcaled, gutted, and walked your carp, put them into a ftew-pan, with two quarts of water, half a pint of white wine, a little pepper, fait, and whole mace, a bunch of fweet herbs, two onions, and a flick of horfe-radifh. Cover the pan clofe, and let it {land an hour and a half over a {love. Put a gill of white wine into a faucepan, with an onion, two anchovies chop¬ ped fine, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, a little lemon-peel, a little good cream, and about a gill of the liquor in which the carp were lie wed. Hav¬ ing boiled them a few minutes, add the yolks of two eggs, mixed with a little cream, and when it boils, fqueeze in the juice of half a lemon. Pour this hot upon the fifb, and ferve them up. Barbel. TAKE a large barbel, fcale, gut, and wafli it in vinegar and fait, and afterwards in water. Put it into a llewpan, with eel broth enough to cover it. Let it flew gently, then add fome cloves, a bunch of fweet herbs, and a bit of cinnamon. Let them flew gently till the fifli is done ; then take it out, thicken the fauce with butter and flour, and pour it over the fifh, Lobjlers. BOIL the lobflers, and pick the meat clean from the fhells. Take a pint of water, a little mace, a little whole pepper, and the fhells of the lobflers. Let them boil till all their goodnefs is out; then flrain off the liquor, and put it into a faucepan. Put in the lobflers with a bit of butter rolled in flour, a lpoonful or two of white wine. STEWS AND HASHES. 85 wine, and a little juice of lemon. Let them boil, and then lay them in the difh. Lampreys , H AVTNG fkinned and gutted your lampreys, fea- fon them well with fait, pepper, a little lemon-peel fhred fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Cut fome thin dices of butter into the bottom of your faucepan, and having rolled your filh round a fkewer, pu: them into the pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine and cyder, the fame of claret, a bundle of marjoram, winter favory, and thyme, and an onion diced. Stew them over a dow fire, and keep the lampreys turning till they be quite tender; then take them out, and put in an an¬ chovy ; thicken the fauce with the yolk of an egg, or a little butter rolled in dour, and haying poured it over the filh, fend them up to table. Eels may be ftewed in the fame manner. Flounders, Plaice , and Soles. THESE three different fpecies of fifh may be ftew¬ ed in one and the fame manner. Half fry them in butter till they be of a fine brown; then take them up, put to your butter a quart of water, two anchovies, and an onion diced, and boil them dowly a quarter of an hour. Then put your filh in again, with a herring, and ftew them gently twenty minutes. Then take out the filh, and thicken the fauce with butter and dour; then having given it a boil, (train it through a hair fieve over the fidi, and ferve them up, with oyfter, cockle, or fhrimp fauce in a boat. To make Water-Sokey , WASH clean and cut the fins clofe of fome of the fmalleft plaice or flounders you can get. Put them into a fcewpan, with a little fait, a bunch of parfley, and juft water enough to boil them. When they be enough, fend them to table in a foup-difh, with the liquor to keep them hot, and parfley and butter in a cup. G 3 Stewed S 6 STEWS and HASHES. Stewed Oyfters. OPEN your oyfters, and put their liquor into a tofiing-pan, with a little beaten mace, and thicken it with flour and butter. Boil them three or four minutes; and having toafted a flice of bread, cut it into three- cornered pieces, and lay them round the difh. Put into the pan a fpoonful of good cream ; then put in your oyfters, and (hake them round. Obferve not to Jet the oyfters boil, as that will make them hard, and fpoil their appearance. Pour them into a deep plate, or foup-difb, and ferve them up. Cockles, and indeed almoft all fheli- fifli, may be (tewed in the fame manner. Scolloped Oyjlers. El AVIN G opened your oyfters into a bafon, and wafhed them out of their own liquor, put fome into your fcollop-fhells, and ftrew over them a few crumbs of bread. Lay a dice of butter on them, then more oy¬ fters, bread, and butter fucceflively, till your (hell be as full as you intend it. Put them into a Dutch oven to brown, and ferve them up in the (hells in which they are fcolloped. Prawns , Shrimps , or Crazv-jifh. TAKE about two quarts, and pick out their tails. Bruife tire bodies, and put them into about a pint of white wine, with a blade of mace. Let them ftew a quarter of an hour, then ftir them together, and drain them. Then wafh out the faucepan, and put to it the drained liquor and tails. Grate into it a fmall nutmeg, add a little fait, and a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour. Shake it all together; cut a pretty thin toad round a quartern loaf, toaft it brown on both fides, cut it into fix pieces, lay it clofe together in the bot¬ tom of your difh, and pour your fifh and fauce over iff Send it hot to table. If it be craw-fifli or prawns, gar- nidi your difh with fome of the biggeft claws laid thick round. Water will do inftead of wine, by only adding •a fpoonful of vinegar. CHAP. R A G O O S. £y C H A P. IX. i' ** R A G O O S. A Fore Quarter of Houfe Lamp. C U T off the knuckle bone, and takeoff the'Ikin'. Lard it all over with bacon, and fry it of a nice light brown. Then put it into a ftewpan, and juft cover it over with mutton gravy, a bunch of fweet herbs, fome pepper, fait, beaten mace, and a little whole pep¬ per. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew for half an hour. Pour out the liquor, and take care to keep the lamb hot. Strain off the gravy, and have ready half a pint of oy- fters fried brown. Pour all the fat from them, add them to the gravy, with two lpoonfuls of red wine, a few mufhrooms, and a bit of butter rolled in flour. Boil all together, with the juice of half a lemon. Lay the lamb in the difh, and pour the fauce over it. Beef TAKE a large piece of flank of beef, which is fat at the top, or any piece that is fat at the top, and has no bones in it, even the rump will anfwer the purpofe. Strip the bone very nicely, flour the meat well, and fry it brown in a large ftew-pan, with a little butter ; then cover it in the pan with gravy made in the following manner: Take about a pound of coarfe beef, a little piece of veal cut fmall, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, fome whole black and white pepper, two or three large blades of mace, four or five cloves, a piece of carrot, a little piece of bacon fteeped a fhort time in vinegar, and a cruft of bread toafted brown. Put to this a quart of wine, and let it boil till it be half wafted. In the mean time, pour a quart of boiling water into the ftew-pan, cover it clofe, and let it fteyv gently. Strain the gravy as foon as it be done, and pour it into the pan in which the beef is. Take an ounce of truf- G 4 hes 83 R A G O O S. fies and morels cut fmall, fome frefh or dried mufhrooms alfo cut fmall, and two fpoonfuls of catchup. Cover it clofe, and let it (lew till the fauce be rich and thick. Then have ready fome artichoke bottoms quartered, and a few pickled mufhrpoms. Give the whole a boil or two, and when your meat be tender, and your fauce rich, lay the meat into a difh, and pour the fauce over it. If you pleafe, you may add a fweetbread cut in fix pieces, a palate ftewed tender, and cut into little pipces, fome cocks-combs, and a few forcemeat balls. Though thefe will be great additions, yet it will do very well without them. Some people, for variety kike, when the beef be ready, and the gravy put to it, add a large bunch of celery cut fmall, and walked clean, two fpoon¬ fuls of catchup, and a glafs of red wine 3 but omit all the other ingredients. Ox Palates . CLEAN them well, and boil them very tenderly; cut fome of them in fquare, and fome in long pieces, and then proceed as follows to make a rich cooley. Put a piece of butter in your ftewpan, and melt it; put to it a large fpoonful of flour, and ftir it well till it be fmooth 3 then put to it a quart of good gravy, three fhalots chopped, and a gill of Lilbon 3 add alfo fome lean ham cut very fine, and half a lemon. Having boiled them twenty minutes, {train the liquor through a fieve, and put it and the palates into your pan, with fome forcemeat balls, truffles and morels pickled, or frefh mufhrooms ftewed in gravy, and feafon to your tafte with pepper and fait. Tofs them up five or fix minutes, difh them up, and garnifh with beet-root or lemon. Calf's Feet. BOIL the feet, bone and cut the meat in flices, brown them in the frying-pan, and then put them in fome good beef gravy, with morels, truffles, pickled mufhrooms, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, fome fait, and a little butter rolled in flour. For a fick per- R A G O O S. S9 fon, a calf’s foot boiled, with parfley and butter, is es¬ teemed very good. Breafl of Veal. H AVIN G half roafted a bread; of veal, bone it, and put it into a toffing-pan, with a quart of veal gravy, an ounce of morels, and the farpe quantity of truffles. Stew it till it be tender, and juft before you thicken the gravy, put in a few oyfters, fome pickled mufhrooms, and pickled cucumbers, all cut in fmall fquare pieces, and the yolks of four eggs boiled hard. Cut your fweet- bread in pieces, and fry it of a light brown. Difh up your veal, and pour the gravy hot upon it. Lay your fweet-bread, morels, truffles, and eggs round upon it, and garnifh with pickled berberries. This is a proper difh at dinner for either top or fide, and at fuppef for phe bottom. Neck of Veal . HAVING cut a neck of veal into fteaks, flatten them with a rolling-pin. Seafon them with fait, pep¬ per, cloves, and mace ; lard them with bacon, lemon- peel, and thyme, and dip them into the yolks of eggs. Make a fbeet of ftrong cap-paper up at the four corners, in the form of a dripping-pan. Pin up the corners, butter the paper, and alfo the gridiron, and fet it over a charcoal fire. Put in your meat, and let it do leifurely, keeping it bafting and turning to keep in the gravy. When it be enough, have ready half a pint of ftrong gravy, feafon it high, and put in mufhrooms and pickles, forcemeat balls dipped in the yolks of eggs, oyfters ftew- ed and fried, to lay round and at the top of your difh, and then ferve it up. If for a brown ragoo, put in red wine ; but if for a white one, put in white wine, with the yolks of eggs beat up with two or three lpoonfuls of cream. Sweet-breads. RUB your fweet-breads over with the yolk of an egg, and ftrew over them crumbs of bread, parfley, thyme, and fweet marjoram fhred fmall, and feafon with pepper and fait. Make a roll of forcemeat like a fweet bread, put 1 90 R A G O O S. i put it in a veal caul., and road them in a Dutch oven. Take fome brown gravy, and put to it a little lemon pickle, fome mufhroom catchup, and the end of a le¬ mon. Boil the gravy, and when the fweet-breads be enough, lay them in a difh, with the forcemeat in the middle. Take out the end of the lemon, pour the gravy into the difh, and fend it up to table./ Leg of Mutton. TA K E off all the {kin and fat, and cut it very thin the right way of the grain ; then butter ycur ftewpan, and fhake fome flour into it. Slice half a lemon, and half an onion, cut them very fmall, and add a little bundle of fweet herbs, and a blade of mace. Put thele and your meat into the pan, ftir it a minute or two, and then put in fix fpoonfuls of gravy. Plave ready an anchovy, minced fmall, and mix it with fome butter and flour. Stir it all together for fix minutes, and then difh it up. Gcofe. BREAK the breaft bone of the goofe, and make it quite flat. When it is fkinned, dip it into boiling water ; feafon it with pepper, fait, .and a little mace beaten to powder; lard it, and then flour it all over. .Take near a pound of beef fuet, put it into a ftewpan according to the flze of the goofe; when melted, and boiling hot, put in the goofe. When it is brown ail over, add to it a quart of beef gravy boiling hot, a bunch of fweet herbs, a blade of mace, a few cloves, fome whole pepper, two or three fmall onions, and a bay-leaf. Cover it very clofe, and let it flew very foftly. An hour will do it, if a fmall one; if a large one, it will take an hour and a half. Make the following ragout for it: fome turnips and carrots cut as for a harrico of mutton, and fome onions, all boiled enough, and half a pint of rich beef gravy. Put them all into a faucepan, with fome pepper, fait, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, Let them flew a quarter of an hour. Take the goofe out of the ftewpan when done, drain it well from the liquor R A G O O S. pi liquor it was dewed in, put it in a difh, and pour the ragout over it. Pigs Feet and Ears. H AVI N G boiled the feet and ears, fplit the feet down the middle, and cut the ears in narrow dices. Dip them in butter, and fry them brown. Put a little beef gravy in a toffing-pan, with a tea-fpoonful of lemon pickle, a large one of mufliroom catchup, the fame of browning, and a little fait. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and put in your feet and ears. Let them boil gently, and when they be enough, lay your feet in the middle ot the difh, and the ears round them ; then drain your gravy, pour it over them, and garniffi, with curled parfley. , Livers. TA K E as many livers as you would have for your difh. The liver of a turkey, and fix fowls livers will make a pretty difn. Pick the galls from them, and throw them into cold water. Take the fix livers, throw them in a faucepan, with a quarter of a pint of gravy, a fpoonful of mufhrooms, either pickled or frefh, the fame quantity of catchup, and a piece of butter, the fize of a nutmeg, roiled in flour. Seafon them to your fade with pepper and fait, and let them dew gently ten mi¬ nutes. In the mean time, broil the turkey’s liver nicely, and lay it in the middle, with the dewed livers round it. Pour the fauce over all, and garnifh with lemon. Mujkrocms. PEEL, fome large muflirooms, and take out the infide. Broil them on a gridiron, and when the out- fide be brown, put them in a toffing-pan, with a quan¬ tity of water fufficient to cover them. Having let them dand ten minutes, put to them a fpoonful of white wine, the fame of browning, and a very little allegar. Thicken it with butter and flower, and boil it a little. Serve it up with fippets round the difn. Artichoke $2 R A G O O S. Artichoke Bottoms. LET them lie in warm water for two or three hours, changing the water. Put to them fome good gravy, mufhroom ketchup or powder, chyan and fait. Thicken with a little flour, and boil all together. Afparagus. SCRAPE one hundred of grafs very clean, and throw it into cold water ; then cut it as far as it is good and green, about an inch long, and take two heads of endive, clean picked and wafhed ? and cut very fmall; a young lettuce, clean wafned, and cut fmall, and a large onion peeled, and cut fmall. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a flewpan, and when it be melt¬ ed, throw in the above ingredients. Tofs them about, and fry them ten minutes,- then feafon them with a little pepper and fait, fhake in a little flour, tofs them about, and pour in half a pint of gravy. Let them flew till the fauce be very thick and good, and then pour all into your difh. Garnifh the difh with a few of the little tops of the grafs. Cucumbers. TAKE two cucumbers and two onions; flice therm and fry them in a little butter. Then drain them in a fieve, and put them into a faucepan; add fix fpoonfuls of gravy, two of white wine, and a blade of mace. Let them flew five or fix minutes ; and then take a piece of butter the fize of a walnut, rolled in flour, a little fait and chyan pepper. Shake them together, and when it be thick, difh them up. Cauliflowers. WA S H a large cauliflower very clean, and pick it into pieces, as for pickling. Make a nice brown cullis, and flew them till tender. Seafon with pepper and fait, and put them into the difh with the fairce over them. Boil a few fprigs of the cauliflower in water for a garnifh. MuJJels , R A G O O S. 93 Mujfels. MELT a little butter in a ftewpan, take the muflels out of the fhells, fry them a minute with a little chop¬ ped parfley, then fhake over them a little flour, put in a little cream, pepper, fait, nutmeg, and lemon juice. Boil them up. If they are to be brown, put good gravy inftead of cream. Another Method. WHEN the muflels are well cleaned, flew them Without water till they open. Take from them the fhells, and fave the liquor. Put into a ftewpan a bit of butter, with a few mufhrooms chopped, a little parfley, and a little grated lemon-peel. Stir this a little about, put in fome good gravy, with pepper and fait; thicken this with a little flour, boil it up, put in the muflels with a little liquor, and let them be hot. When muf- fels are ftewed, throw among them a half crown, or any piece of filver; if that be not difcoloured, the muflels may be eaten with the greateft fafety, without taking any thing out of them, as is the ufual method. Oyfters. OPEN a quart of the largeft oyfters you can get, fave the liquor, and ftrain it through a fine fieve; wafh your oyfters in warm water, and make the following batter: Take two yolks of eggs well beaten, grate in half a nutmeg, cut a little lemon-peel fmall, a good deal of parfley, a fpoonful of the juice of fpinach, two fpoonfuls of cream or milk, and beat it up with flour to a thick batter. Have ready fome butter in a ftew¬ pan ; dip your oyfters one by one into the batter, and have ready crumbs of bread, in which roll them, and fry them quick and brown, fome with the crumbs of bread, and fome without. Take them out of the pan, and fet them before the fire; then have ready a quart of cheftnuts, fhelled and fkinned, and fry them in the batter. When they be enough, take them up, put the fat out of the pan, fhake a little flour all over the pan, and rub a piece of butter round it with a fpoon. Then i put F R I C A S E E S. 94 put in the oyfter liquor, three or four blades of rfiace, then the cheftnuts, and half a pint of white wine; then let them boil, and have ready the yolks of two eggs beat up with four fpoonfuls of cream. Stir all well together, and when it be thick and fine, lay the oyfters in the difh, and pour the ragoo over them. Garnifh with cheftnuts and lemon. CHAP. X. F R I C A S E E S. Lamb-St ones. T AKE what quantity you pleafe of lamb-flones, dip them in butter, and fry -them of a nice brown in hog’s-lard. Have ready a little veal gravy, and thicken it with butter and flour. Put in a flice of le¬ mon, a little mufhroom catchup, a tea-fpoonfui of le¬ mon-pickle, and a little grated nutmeg. Beat the yolk of an egg, and mix it with two fpoonfuls of thick cream. Put in your gravy, and keep {halting it over the fire till it looks white and thick; then put in the lamb-ftones, and give them a fhake. When they be properly heat¬ ed, difn them up, and lay boiled forcemeat balls round .them. Calf's Feet. BOfE them, take out the long bones, fplit them, and put them into a ftewpan, with fome veal gravy, and ' a very little white wine. Beat the yolks of two or three eggs with a little cream, and put to them a little grated nutmeg, fome fait, and-a piece of butter. Stir it till it be of a proper thicknefs. 5 Sweet- 95 F R I C A S E E S. Sweetbreads JVhite. SCALD them, and cut them in long dices; thicken fome veal gravy with a bit of butter mixed with flour, a little cream, fome grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg, white pepper, fait, and a little mufhroom powder and liquor. Stew this a little time, put in the fweetbreads, and fimmer them, fhaking the pan. Squeeze in a little lemon juice. Sweetbreads Brown . FIRST fcald two or three, and then dice them ; dip them in the yolk of an egg, mixed with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and a little dour. Fry them a nice brown; thicken a little good gravy with fome dour ; boil it well, and add chyan, ketchup, or mufhroom powder, and a little juice of lemon. Stew the fweetbreads in this a few minutes, and garnifh with lemon. Sweetbreads and Palates . PARBOIL one or two fweetbreads; flew two or three palates till very tender; blanch and cut them in pieces, and dice the fweetbreads. Dip thefe in eggs, flrew over them very dne bread crumbs, feafoned with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and pounded cloves ; fry and drain them ; thicken fome good gravy with a little dour; add ketchup, chyan, and fait, if necedary. Stew them in this about a quarter of an hour; a few pickled mufh- rooms or lemon juice ; lamb-flones may be added, par¬ boiled and fried. Palates do very well alone, dreffed as above ; or with the fweet’bread roafled, and put in the middle of the dilb. Ox-Palates. WASH your ox-palates in feveral waters, and lay them in warm water for half an hour; then put them in a ftewpot, and cover them with water. Put them in the oven for three or four hours, and when they come from thence, drip off the fkins, and cut them into fquare pieces. Seafon them with,chyan pepper, fait, mace, and nutmeg. Mix a fpoonful of flour with the yolks of two eggs, dip your palates into it, and fry them till 9 6 FRICASEES, they be of a light brown. Put them in a fieve to drains and have ready half a pint of veal gravy, with a little caper liquor, a fpoonful of browning, and a few mufh- rooms. Thicken it with butter and flour, and pour it hot into your difh; then lay on your palates, and gar- niih with berberries and fried parfley. I Chickens. HAVING fkinned your chickens, and cut them into fmall'pieces, walk them in warm water, and dry them very clean with a cloth. Seafon them with fait and pepper, and put them into a ftewpan with a little water, a large piece of butter, a bunch of thyme, and fweet marjoram, an onion ftuck with cloves, half a le¬ mon, or a little lemon-pickle, a glafs of wine, an an¬ chovy, and a little mace and nutmeg. Let them ftew till the chickens be tender, and then lay them on your dilh. Having thickened your gravy with butter and flour, ftrain it, and then beat up the yolks of three eggs, and mix them with a gill of rich cream. Put this into your gravy, and fhake it over the fire, without fuffering it to boil. Pour this over your chickens, and ferve them up. Pulled Chickens . BOIL fix chickens till they be nearly enough; then flea them, and pull the white flefh all off from the bones* Put it in a ftewpan, with half a pint of cream made Raid¬ ing hot, the gravy that ran from the chickens, and a few fpoonfuls of the liquor they were boiled in. To this add fome raw parfley fhred fine, and give the whole a tois or two over the fire; duft a little flour over a piece of butter, and fhake them up. Chickens done this way mull be killed the night before, and a little more than half boiled, and pulled in pieces as broad as your finger, and half as long. You may add a fpoon¬ ful of white wine to the above ingredients. Pigeons. CUT your pigeons as above defcribed for chickens, and fry them of a light brown. Put them into fome good F k I C A S E E Si 9 J good mutton gravy* and {tew them near half an hour; then put in a flice of lemon* half an ounce of morels, and a fpoonftil of browning. Thicken your gravy, and {train it over your pigeons. Garnifh with pickles, and lay round them forcemeat balls. Another method to fricafee pigeons is as follows: Take eight pigeons, juft killed, and out them in fmali pieces* Put them into a ftewpan, with a pint of water, and the fame quantity of claret. Seal'on them with pepper and fait, a blade or two of mace, an onion, a bundle of fweet herbs, and a large piece of butter, rolled in a little flour. Cover it clofe, and let them ftew till there be juft enough for lauce. Then take out the onion and fweet herbs, beat up the yolk of three eggs, grate halt a nutmeg, and with a ipoon pufh the meat to one fide of the pan, and the gravy to the other, and llir in the eggs. Keep them ftirring to prevent their curdling, and when the fauce be fine and thick, {hake all together. Put the meat into the dilh, pour the fauce over it, and. have ready fome flices of bacon toafted, and oyfters fried 5 fcatter the oyfters over it, lay the bacon round it, and make ule of lemon for garnifh. Rabbits . IN order to fricafee rabbits brown , cut them as for eating, and fry them in butter till they be of a light brown. Then put them ipto a toftlng-pan, with a pint of water, a ftice of lemon, an anchovy, a large fpoon- ful of browning, the fame of mitftiroom catchup, a tea- fpoonful of lemon pickle, and feafen with fait and chyart pepper. Stew them over a flow fire till they be enough, then thicken your gravy, and drain it. Dilh Up your rabbits, and pour the gravy over them. To fricafee rabbits white , cut them as above direft- ed, and put them into a tofiing-parl, with a pint of veal gravy, a little beaten mace, a flice of lemon, an anchovy, a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle, and feafon vVith thy an. pepper and fait. Stew them over a flow' fire, and when they be enough, thicken your gravy with butter and flour i then drain it, and add to it the yolks of two H . eggs, FRICASEES. eggs, mixed with a gill of thick cream, and a little nutmeg grated therein. Take care not to let it boil. Neats Tongues. BOIL your tongues till they be tender, peel them, cut them into dices, and fry them in frefh butter. Then pour out the butter, put in as much gravy as you fhall want for fauce, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, fome pepper and fait, a blade or two of mace, and a glafs of white wine. Having fimmered all together, about half an hour, take out the tongues, drain the gravy, and put both that and the tongues into the ftewpan again. Beat up the yolks of two eggs, a little nutmeg grated, and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Shake all together for four or five minutes, and didi it up. Tripe. TAKE fome lean tripe, cut and fcrape from it all the loofe fluff, and cut it into pieces two inches fquare. Cut them acrofs from corner to corner, or in what fhape you pleafe. Put them into a ftewpan, with half as much white wine as will cover them, diced ginger, white pepper, a blade of mace, a bundle of fweet herbs, and an onion. When it begins to flew, a quarter of an hour will do it. Then take out the herbs and onion, and put in a little fhred pardey, the juice of a lemon, half an ancho-vy cut fmall, a few fpoonfuls of cream, and the yolk of an egg, or a piece of butter. Seafon It to your tafle, and when you difh it up, garnidi it with lemon. Artichoke Bottoms. THESE may be fricafeed either dried or pickled : if dried, you mud: lay them three or four hours in warm water, fhifting the water two or three times. Then have ready a little cream, and a piece of frefli butter, flirted together one way over the fire till it be melted. Then put in the artichokes, and when they be hot difU them up. 1 Mnjhr ooms. F R I C A S E E S. 99 Mujhrooms. H AV1N G peeled and fcraped the infide of your mufhrooms, throw them into fait and water ; but if they be buttons, rub them with flannels. Take them out and boil them in water, with fome fait in it, and when they be tender, put in a little Hired parfley, and an onion ftuck with cloves. Tofs them up, with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, and put in three fpoonfuls of thick cream, and a little nutmeg cut in pieces; but both the nutmeg and the onion mud be taken out before you fend your mufhrooms to table. Inftead of the parfley; you may, if you choofe it, put in a glafs of wine. . Skirrets. HAVING wafhed the roots well, and boiled them till they be tender, take off the fldn of the roots, and cut them into flices. Have ready a little cream, a piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg beaten, a little nutmeg grated, two or three fpoonfuls of white wine, a very little fait, and ftir all together. Put your roots into the difh, and pour the fauce over them. This is a pretty fide difh. EgZ s - BOIL your eggs hard, and take out fome of the yolks whole. Then cut the reft in quarters, yolks and whites together. Set on fome gravy, with a iittle Hired thyme and parfley in it, and give it a boil or two. Then put in your eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, and fliake it up with a piece of butter, till it be of a proper thick- nefs. Fry artichoke bottoms in thin flices, and garnifh with eggs, boiled hard, and fhred fmall. Eggs , with Onions and Mujhrooms . BOIL the eggs hard, take the yolks out whole, cut the whites in flips, with fome onions and mufhrooms, and fry the onions and imufhrooms. Throw in the whites, and turn them about a little. If there be any fat, pour it off. Flour the onions, &c. put to it a little good gravy, boil this up, and add pepper and fait, and the yolks. Cod H 2 ICO ERICASEES* Cod Sounds . » CLEAN them well, and cut them into fmall pieces* Roil them tender in milk and water, and put them to drain. Put them into a clean faucepan, andfeafon them with beaten mace and grated nutmeg, and a little pep¬ per and fait. Pour in a cupful of cream, with a ,gccd piece of butter rolled in flour, and keep fhaking it till it be thick enough. • Then difli it up, and garnilh with lemon. Soles. SKIN, gut, and wafh your foies very clean ; cut oft their heads, and dry your fifh in a cloth. Then very carefully cut the flefn from the bones and fins on both iides, and cut the fldh long ways, and then acrofs, fo that each foie may be in eight pieces. Take the heads and bones, and put them into a faucepan, with a pint of water, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, a little whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a little lalt, a fmall piece of lemon-peel, and a cruft of bread. Cover it dole, and let it boil till half be wafted. Then ftrain it through a fine fieve, and put it into a ftewpan. Put in the foies, and with them half a pint of white wine, a little parfley chopped fine, a few mufhrooms cut fmall, a little grated nutmeg, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Set all together on the fire, but keep fhaking the pan all the while till the fifh be enough. Then difh them up, and garniih with lemon. Plaice and Flounders. RUN your knife all along upon the bone on the back-fde of the fifh, and raiie the flefn on both fides, from the head to the tail. Then take out the bone clear, and cut your fifh in fix collops. Dry it well, fprinkle It with fait, dredge them with flour, and fry them in a pan of hot. beef-dripping, fo that the fifh may be crifp. Take it out of the pan, and keep it warm before the fire; then dean the pan, and put into it fome minced o.yfters, and their liquor drained,' fome white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and three anchovies. Having ftewed theTe ud together, put in half a pound of butter, and FRICASEES. IOI and then your fifh. Tofs them well together, chili them on fippets, and pour the fauce over them. Garnifh with the yolks of eggs, boiled hard, and minced, and lemon fliced. In this manner you may fricafee falmon, or any firm fiili. Skate, or ‘Thcrnback. HAVING cut the meat clean from the bone, fins. Sec. make it very clean. Then cut it into thin pieces, about an inch broad, and two inches long, and lay them in your ftewpan. To one pound of the flefh put a quarter of a pint of water, a little beaten mace, and grated nutmeg; a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, and a little fait. Cover it, and let it boil fifteen minutes. Take out the fweec herbs, put in a quarter of a pint of good cream, a piece of butter, the lize of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a glafs of white wine. Keep fhaking the pan all the time one way, till it be thick and fmooth •, then difh it up, and garnifn with lemon. Fijh in general. TO fricafee fifh in general, melt butter according to the quantity of your fifh, and cut your fifh in pieces of the length and breadth of three fingers. Then put them and your butter into a ftewpan, and put it on the fire; but take care that it does not boil too faff, as that may break the fifh, and turn the butter into oil. Turn them often, till they be enough, having fir It put in a bunch of fweet herbs, an onion, two or three anchovies cut fmall, a little pepper and fait, lome nutmeg, mace, lemon-peel, and two or three cloves ; then put in fome claret, and let them flew all together. Beat up fix yolks of eggs, and put them in, with inch pickles as you pleafe, as oyfters, mufhrooms, and capers. Shake them well together, that they may not curdle; and if you put the fpi.ee in whole, take it out when it be done. The fea- foning ought to be ftewed firft in a little water, and the butter melted in that and the wine before you put your fifh in. Jacks eat very well, when done in this manner. H 3 C H A P. cook the moil important chapters in , it may not be improper to give the home general hints. It is an important point to take care that all the copper vedels be well tinned, and kept perfectly clean from any fculnefs or grittinefs. Before you put eggs or cream into your white fauce, have all your other ingredients well boiled, and the whole of a proper thicknefs; for neither eggs nor cieam will contribute much to thicken it. After you have put them in, do not ftir them with a fpoon, nor fet your pan on the fire, for fear it Ihould gather at the bottom, and be lumpy; but hold your pan at a proper height from the fire, and keep fhaking it round one way, which will keep the fauce from curdling; and be particularly cautious, that you do not fuffer it to boil. Remember to take out your collops, meat, or what¬ ever you are dreffing, with a fifh-flice, and drain your fauce upon it, which will prevent fmall bits of meat mixing with your fauce, and thereby leave it clear and fine. In browning difhes, be particularly cautious that no fat floats on the top of your gravy, which will be the cafe if you do not properly fkim it. It fhould be of a fine brown, without any one predominant tade, which mud depend on the judicious proportion in the mixture of your various articles of ingredients. If you make ufe of wine, or anchovy, take off its rawnefs, by putting it in fome time before your difh be ready; for nothing injures the reputation of a made difh fo much as raw wine, or frefh anchovy. Be fure to put your fried forcemeat-balls to drain on a fieve, that the fat may run from them, and never let them boil in your fauce, as that will foften them and give them a greafy appearance. ervations. appearance. To put them in after the meat be difhed up, is indiiputably the .bed method. In almoft every made difh, you may uie forcemeat-balls, morels, truffles, artichoke bottoms, and pickled mufhrooms; and in feveral made difhes, a roll of forcemeat may fupply the place of balls ; and y>e ‘propriety, it is to be preferred. , Beef a-la-mode HAVING boned a rump of beef, lard'the top with bacon, and make the following forcemeat. Take four ounces of marrow, the crumbs of a penny loaf, a few fweet herbs chopped fmall, two heads of garlick, and . feafdn them to your tafle with fait, pepper, and nutmeg; then beat up the yolks of four eggs, mix all together, and fluff it into the beef at the parts from whence the bone was extradled, and alfo in feveral of the lean parts. Skewer it round, and fallen it properly with a firing. Put it into the pot, throw in a pint of red wine, and tie the pot down with a ftrong paper. Put it into the oven for three or four hours, and when it comes out, if it is to be eaten hot, fkim the fat from the gravy, and add a fpoonful of pickled mufhrooms, and half an ounce of morels. Thicken it with flour and butter, difh it up, and pour on your gravy. Garnifh it with forcemeat-balls. Beef a-la-rcyal. TAKE a brifket of beef, bone it, and with a knife make holes in it about an inch from each other. Fill one hole with fat bacon, a fecond with parfley chopped, and a third with chopped oyflers. Let thele flufflngs be feafoned with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. When the beef be completely fluffed, pour upon it a pint of wine boiling hot, then dredge it well with flour, and fend it to the oven. Let it remain in the oven better than three hours, and when it comes out, fkim off the fat, drain the gravy over the beef, and garnifh with pickles. MADE D I S II E S, 104 Beef a-la-daub. BONE a rump of beef, or take a part of the leg- of-mutton piece, or a piece of the buttock, and cut fome fat bacon as long as the beef be thick, and about a quarter of an inch fquare. Take four blades of mace, double that number of cloves, a little all-fpice, and half a nutmeg pounded very fine. Chop a good handful of parftey, and fome fweet herbs of all forts very fine, and feafon with pepper and fait. Roll the bacon in t’nefe, and then take a large larding-pin, and with it thru ft the bacon through the beef. When that be done, put it in a ftew-pan, with a quantity of brown gravy fufficient to cover it. Chop three blades of garlick very fine, and put in fome frefh mufhrooms or champignons, two large onions, and a carrot. Having ftewed it gently for fix hours, take it out, drain dff the gravy, and fkim all the fat off. Put your meat and gravy 4 into the pan again, and add to it a gill of white wine; and if it be not properly feafoned, put to it a little more pepper and fait. Stew them gently for half an hour, and add fome artichoke bottoms, morels and truffles, fome oyfters, and a fpoonful of vinegar. Put the meat in a foup- difh, and pour the fauce over it. Some put carrots and turnips cut in round pieces, and fome fmall onions, and then thicken the fauce; they then put the meat in> and with a gill of white wine added, ftew it gently for half an hour. Beef Olives. CUT a rump of beef into (leaks half an inch thick, as fquare as you can, and about ten inches long. Cut a piece of fat bacon as wide as the beef, and about three parts as long. Put part of the yolk of an egg on the beef, and put the bacon on it, and the yolk of an egg on the bacon. Put fome good favory forcemeat on that, fome of the yolk of an egg on the forcemeat, and then roll them up, and tie. them round with a firing in two places. Put fome crumbs of bread, and fome of the yolk of an egg on them. Then fry them brown in a large pan, with fome beef dripping, and when they be MADE DISHES. 105 fried fufficiently, take them out and put them to drain. Melt fome butter in a ftew-pan, put in a fpoonful of flour, and ftir it well till it be fmooth. Then put in a pint of good gravy, with a gill of white wine, and then put in the olives, and flew them for an hour. Add fome mufhrooms, truffles and morels, forcemeat-balls, fweet-breads cut in fmall pieces, and fome ox-palates. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and feafon it with pepper and fait. Tofs them up, and having carefully fkimmed off the fat, lay them in the difh, and garnifh with lemon and beet-root. Beef tremblonqiie.. TIE up clofely the fat end of a brifket of beef. Put it into a pot of water, and boil it fix hours very gently. Sealon the water with a little fait, a handfull of all- fpice, two onions, two turnips, and a carrot. In the mean time, put a piece of butter into a ftew-pan, and melt it. Then put in two fpoonfuls of flour, and ftir it till it be fmooth. Put in a quart of gravy, a fpoon¬ ful of catchup, the fame of browning, a gill of white wine, turnips and carrots, and cut them as for harrico of mutton. Stew them gently till the roots be tender, and feafon with pepper and fait. Skim the fat clean off, put the beef in the difh, and pour the fauce over it. Garnifh with pickles of any fort. If you choofe it, you may make a fauce thus ; Chop a handful of parfley, one onion, four pickled cucumbers, one walnut, and a gill of capers. Put them into a pint of good gravy, and thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour 1 feafon it with pepper and fait, and boil it up for ten minutes. Put the beef in a difh, with greens and carrots round it. * Beef Cell ops. TAKE rump-fteaks, or any tender piece of beef, cut like Scotch collops, but larger, and hack them a little with a knife ; flour them, and having melted a little butter in your ftew-pan, put in your collops, and fry them quick for about two minutes. Put in a pint of gravy, a little butter rolled in flour, and feafon it , with MADE DISHES. 10 6 with pepper and fait. Cut four pickled cucumbers into thin dices, a few capers, half a walnut', and little onion dared fine. Having dewed them five minutes, put them into a hot difh, and fend them to table. 'Portugal Beef. CUT the meat off the bene of a rump, cut it acrofs, and flour it. Fry the thin part brown in butter, and duff the thick end with fuet, broiled chednuts, an anchovy, an onion, and a little pepper. Stew it in a pan of drong broth, and when it be tender, lay both the fried and the dewed together in your difh. Cut the fried in two, and lay it on each fide of the dewed. Strain the gravy in which it was dewed, put to it fome pickled gerkins chopped, and fome broiled chednuts. Thicken it with a piece of burnt butter, and give it two or three boils up. Seafon it to your palate with fait, pour it over the beef, and garnifh with lemon. Bouillie Beef. PUT the thick end of a brifket of beef into a kettle, and cover it over with water. Let it boil fad for two hours, then dew it clofe by the fire fide for fix hours more, and fill up the kettle as the water falls. Put in with the beef fome turnips cut in little balls, fome car¬ rots, and fome clary cut in pieces. About an hour be¬ fore it be done, take out as much broth as will fill your foup-difh, and boil in it, for an hour, turnips and carrots cut out in little round or fquare pieces, with fome celery, and feafon it to your tade with fait and pepper. Serve it up in two difhes, the beef in one difh, and the foup in another. If you choofe it, you may put pieces of fried bread in your foup, and boil in a few knots of greens; and if you would have your foup richer, you may add a pound or two of fome fried mutton-chops to your broth when you take it from the beef, and let it dew for an hour in the broth; but re¬ member to take out the mutton before you ferve it up. Sirloin MADE D I S II E S. /' 107 Sirloin of Beef en Epigram. HAVING roafted a firloin of beef, take it off the fpit, and raife the fldn carefully off. Then cut out the lean part of the beef, but obferve not to cut near the ends nor Tides. Hafh the meat in the following man¬ ner : cut it into pieces about the fize of a crown piece, put half a pint of gravy into a toffing-pan, an onion chopped fine, two fpoonfuls of catchup, fome pepper and fait, fix fmall pickled cucumbers cut in thin flices, and the gravy that comes from the beef, with a little butter rolled in flour. Put in the meat, and tofs it up for five minutes; put it on the firloin, and then put the fldn over, and lend it to table. The Infide of a Sirloin of Beef forced. LIFT up the fat of the infide, and with a fharp knife cut off all the meat clofe to the bone. Chop it fmall; take a pound of luet, and chop that fmall; about as many crumbs of bread, a little lemon-peel, thyme, pepper, and lalt, half a nutmeg grated, and two fhalots chopped fine. Mix all together, with a glafs of red wine, and then put the meat into the place you took it from; cover it with the fldn and fat, fkewer it down with fine fkewers, and cover it with paper. The paper muft not be taken off till the meat be put on the difli, and your meat muft be fpitted before you take out the infide. Take a quarter of a pint of red wine, and two fhalots Aired fmall; boil them, and pour it into the difh, with the gravy that comes out of the meat. ‘The Infide of a Rump of Beef forced. THIS muft be done nearly in the fame manner as the above, only lift up the outfide fldn, take the middle of the meat, and proceed as before directed. Put it into the fame place, and with fine fkewers put it down clofe. A Round of Beef forced. FIRST rub it with fome common fair, a little bay- falt, fome faltpetre, and coarfe fugar; then let it ftand a full week or more, according to the fize, turning it every MADE DISHES. 10S every day. Wafli and dry it, lard it a little, and make holes, which fill with bread crumbs, marrow, or fuet, parfley, grated lemon peel, fweet herbs, pepper, fait, nutmeg, yolk of egg, made into fluffing. Bake it with a little water, and fome fmall beer, fome whole peppef, and an onion. It may be boiled; and is a handfome fideboard difh cold for a large company. Beef Steaks rolled. TAKE what quantity you want of beef-fteaks, and beat them with a cleaver to make them tender; make fome forcemeat with a pound of veal beat fine in a mortar, the flefh of a fowl, half a pound of cold ham or gammon of bacon, fat and lean ; the kidney fat of a loin of veal, and a fweetbread, all cut very fine. Some truffles and morels Hewed, and then cut fmall, two efchalots, fome parfley, a little thyme, fome lemon- peel, the yolks of four eggs, a nutmeg grated, and half a pint of cream. Mix ail thefe together, and ftir them over a flow fire for ten minutes. Put them upon the Beaks, and roll them up; then fkewer them tight, put them into the frying-pan, and fry them of a nice brown. Then take them from the fat, and put them into a Itew-pan with a pint of good drawn gravy, a fpoonful of red wine, two of catchup, a few pickled mufflrooms, and let them flew for a quarter of an hour. Take up the (teaks, cut them into two, and lay the cut fide up- permoft. Garnifh with lemon. Boeuf a la Vinegrette. FROM the round of beef cut a fiice of three inches thick, with very little fat. Stew it in water and a glafs of white wine, feafoned with fait, pepper, cloves, a bunch of fweet herbs, and a bay-leaf. Let it boil till the liquor is almoft confirmed; and when it is cold, ferve it up. What liquor remains, drain it oft, and mix it with a little vinegar. Beef Efcarlot. TAKE a brifket of beef, half a pound of coarfe fugar, two ounces of bay-fait, and a pound of common fait. MADE DISHES. 109 fait. Mix all together, rub the beef with it, lay it in an earthen pan, and turn it every day. It may lie a fortnight in this pickle; then ferve it up with favoys or peafe-pudding; but it eats much better when cold and cut into Hices. 1 Tripe a la Kilkenny. THIS difh is very much admired in Ireland, and is thus prepared. Take a piece of double tripe cut in fquare pieces, peel and wafh ten large onions, cut them into two, and put them on to boil in water till they be tender. Then put in your tripe, and boil it ten minutes. Pour off aimoft all your liquor, fhake a little flour into it, and put in fome butter, with a little fait and muftard. Shake all over the fire till the butter be melted, then put it into your difh, and lend it to table as hot as pof- fible. Garnifh with lemon or berberries. T on'gue and Udder forced. HAVING parboiled your tongue and udder, blanch, the tongue, and ftick it with cloves. As for the udder, you mu ft carefully raife it, and fill it with forcemeat made with veal. Firft wafh the infide with the yolk of an egg,- the put in the forcemeat, tie the ends clofe and fpit them, roaft them, and baffe them with butter. When they be enough, put good gravy into the dilh, and fweet fauce into a cup. If you choofe it, you may -laid the udder. Porcupine of a Breaft of Veal. TAKE the fineft and largeft bread: of veal you can procure, bone it, and rub it over with the yolks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, and lay over it a little bacon cut as thin as poflible, a handful of parfley fhred fine, the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs chopped final], a little lemon-peel cut fine, the crumb of a penny loaf fteeped in cream, and feal'on to your tafte with fait, pep¬ per, and nutmeg. Roll the bread: clofe, and lkewer it ud. Then cut fat bacon, and the lean of ham that has x ' 7 been a little boiled, (it you ufe the ham raw, it will turn the veal red) and pickled cucumbers, about two inches long, / no MADE DISHES. long, to anfwer the other lardings. Lard it in rows, firft ham, then bacon, and then cucumbers, till you have larded every part of the veal. Put it in a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, and cover it, and fet it in a flow oven for two hours. As foon as it comes from the oven, fl Calf's Heart roofed. HAVING made a forcemeat of the crumb of half a penny loaf, a quarter of a pound of beef fuet chopped fmall, a little parfley, jfweet marjoram, and lemon-peel, mixed up with a little pepper, fait, nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg, fill the heart with it, and lay a veal caul over the fluffing, or a flieet of writing paper, to keep it in its place. Lay it in a Dutch oven, and keep turning it till it be thoroughly roafled. When you difh. it up, lay flices of lemon round it, and pour good melted butter over it. Calf's MADE DISHES. 117 Calf's Head furprfe. THIS is an elegant top-d'rfh, not very expenfive, and is prepared in the following manner: Take the hair off a large calf’s head, as diredted in the mock-turtle, p. 32. Then raife off the fkin with a fharp-pointed knife, and as much of the meat from the bone as you can poffibly get, fo that it may appear like a whole head when fluffed; but be careful not to cut holes in the fkin. Then fcrape a pound of fat bacon, take the crumbs of two penny loaves, a fmall nutmeg grated, and feafon to your tafle with fait, chyan pepper, and a little lemon-peel. Beat up the yolks of fix eggs, and mix all up into a rich forcemeat. Put a little of it into the ears, and the reft into the head. Then put it into a deep pot, juft wide enough to take it in, and put to it two quarts of w-ater, half a pint of white wine, a blade or two of mace, a bundle of fweet herbs, an anchovy, two fpoonfuls of walnut and mufhroom catchup, the fame quantity of lemon pickle, and a little fait and chyan pepper. Lay a coarfe pafte over it to keep in the fleam, and put it for two hours and a half in a very quick oven. When you take it out, lay the head in a foup-difh, fkim off the fat from the gravy, and ftrain it through a hair-fieve into atoffmg-jaan. Thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and when it has boiled a few minutes, put in the yolks of fix eggs w 7 ell beaten, and mixed with half a pint of cream. Have ready boiled a few forcemeat balls, half an ounce of truffles and morels; but do not flew them in the gravy. Pour the gravy over the head, and garnifh with truffles and morels, forcemeat balls, berberries, and mufhrooms. Breajl of Veal in Hodge-Podge. CUT the brifket of a breaft of veal into little pieces, and every bone afunder. Then flour it, and put half a pound of good butter into a ftew-pan. When it be hot, throw in the veal, fry it all over of a fine light brown, and then have ready a tea-kettle of boiling water. Pour it into the ftew-pan, fill it up, and ftir it round. Throw in a pint of green peas, a fine whole fettuce, cleai? I 3 wafhedj. I ii* MADE DISHES. wafhed, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper tied in a muflin rag, a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, a fmall onion {tuck with a few cloves, and a little fait. Cover it clofe, and let it flew an hour, or till it be boiled to your palate, if you would have foup made of it; but, if you 'would only have fauce to eat with the veal, you muft (lew it till there be juft as much as you would have for fauce, and feafon it with fait to your palate. Take out the onion, fweet herbs, and fpice, and pour it altogether into your difh. If you have no peas, pare three or four cucumbers, fcoop out the pulp, and cut them into little pieces; and take four or five heads of celery, clean walked, and cut the white part fmall. When you have no lettuces, take the little hearts of favoys, or the little young fprouts that grow on the old cabbage-ftalks, about as big as the top - of your thumb. If you would make a very fine difh of it, fill the infide of your lettuce with forcemeat, and tie the top clofe with a thread. Stew it till there be juft enough for fauce. Set the lettuce in the middle, and the veal round, and pour the fauce all round it. Garnifh your difh with rafped bread, made into figures with your fingers. This is the cheapeft way of dreffing a breaft of veal to be good, and ferve a number of people. Difguifed Leg of Veal and Bacon. HAVING larded your veal all over with flips of bacon, and a little lemon-peel, boil it with a piece of bacon. When it be enough, take it up, cut the bacon into flices, and have ready fome dried fage and pepper rubbed fine. Rub it over the bacon, lay the veal in the difh, and the bacon round it; ftrew it all over with fried parfley, and have green fauce in cups, thus made; take two handfuls of forrel, pound it in a mortar, and fqueeze out the juice. Put it into a faucepan with fome melted butter, a little fugar, and the juice of a lemon. Or you may make it thus: beat two handfuls of forrel in a mortar, with two pippins quartered; fqueeze the juice out, with the juice of a lemon, or vinegar, and fweeteo with fugar. Lein I MADE DISHES. 119 Loin of Veal en Epigram. H AVING roafted a fine loin of veal, as directed in the chapter for roafting, take it up, and carefully take the fkin off the back part without breaking it. Cutout all the lean meat; but leave the ends whole, to hold the following mincemeat: mince all the meat very fine with the kidney part, put it into a little veal gravy, enough to moiften it with the gravy that comes from the loin. Put in a little pepper and fait, fome lemon-peel fhred fine, the yolks of three eggs, and a fpoonful of catchup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in fioyr. Give it a fihake or two over the fire, and put it into the loin, and then pull the fkin over. If the fkin fhould not quite cover it, give it a brown with a hot iron, or put it in an oven for fifteen minutes. Send it up hot, and garnifh with berberries and lemon. Pillow of Veal. H AVIN G half roafted a neck or bread: of veal, cut it into fix pieces, and feafon it with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Take a pound of rice, put to it a quart of broth, fome mace, and a little fait. Do it over a ftove, or very flow fire, till it be thick; but butter the bottom of the,pan or difh you do it in. Beat up the yolks of fix eggs, and ftir them into it. Then take a little round deep difh, butter it, and lay fome of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal on a round heap, and cover it all over with rice. Wafh it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half. Then open the top, and pour in a pint of rich good gravy. Garnifh with a Seville orange cut in quarters, and fend it hot to table. Savoury Difh of Veal. HAVING cut large collops out of a leg of veal, fpread them abroad on a dreffer, hack them with the back of a knife, and dip them into the yolks of eggs. Seafon them with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and pepper, beaten fine. Make forcemeat with fome of your veal, beef fuet, oyfters chopped, fweet herbs flared fine, and I 4 the 120 M.ADE.DISHES. the aforefaid fpice. Strew" all thefe over your collops, roll and tie them up, put them on fkewers, tie them to a fpit, and roaft them. To the reft of your forcemeat add a raw egg or two, and roll them in balls and fry them. Put them into your difh with your meat when roafted, and make the lauce with ftrong broth, an an¬ chovy, a fhalot, a little white wine, and fome fpice. Let it ftew, and thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the fauce into the difh, lay the meat in, and garnifh with lemon. To drejs the Umhles of Deer. TAKE the kidney of a deer, with the fat of the heart} leafon them with a little pepper, fait and nut¬ meg. Firft fry them, and then ftew them in fome good gravy till they be tender. Squeeze in a little lemon ; take the fkirts, and fluff them with a forced meat made with the fat of the venifon, fome fat of bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, fage, and onion chopped very fmall. Mix it with the yolk of an egg. When the fkirts are fluffed with this forced meat, tie them to the fpit to roaft} but firft lard them with thyme and lemon- peel. When they be done, lay the fkirts in the middle of the difh, and the fricafee round it. Harico of a Neck of Mutton. HAVING cut the beft end of a neck of mutton into chops, in fingle ribs, flatten them, and fry them of a light brown. Then put them into a large faucepan, with two quarts of water, a large carrot cut in flices, and when they have ftewed a quarter of an hour, put in two turnips cut in fquare pieces, the white part of a head of celery, two cabbage lettuces fried, a few heads of afparagus, and feafon all with a little chyan pepper. Boil them altogether till they be tender, and put it into a . tureen or foup-difh, without any thickening to the gravy. Shoulder of Mutton furprifed. PUT a fhoulder of mutton, having firft half boiled it, into a toffing-pan, with two quarts of veal gravy, four ounces of rice, a little beaten mace, and a tea- 4 fpoonful MADE DISHES. I 21 fpoonful of rnufhroom powder. Stew it an hour, or till the rice be enough, and then take up your mutton, and keep it hot. Put to the rice half a pint of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Then {hake it well, and boil it a few minutes. Lay your mutton on the difh, and pour your gravy over it. You may garnifh with either pickles or berberries. A Bafque of Mutton. LAY the caul of a leg of veal in a copper difh, of the fize of a lln all punch bowl, and take the lean of a leg of mutton that has been kept a week. Having chopped it exceedingly fmall, take half its weight in beef marrow, the crumb of a penny loaf, the rind of half a lemon grated, half a pint of red wine, two anchovies, and the yolks of four eggs. Mix it as you would faufage meat, and lay it in the caul in the infide of the difh. Fallen the caul, bake it in a quick oven, and when it comes out, lay your difh upfide-down, and turn the whole out. Pour over it brown gravy, pour venifon fauce into a boat, and make ufe of pickles for garnifh. Sheeps Rumps and Kidnies. THIS is a pretty fide or corner difh, and may be thus prepared. Boil fix fheeps rumps in veal gravy ; then lard your kidnies with bacon, and fet them before the fire in a tin oven. As foon as the rumps become tender, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, a little grated nutmeg, and forne chyan pepper. Skim the fat from the gravy, and put the gravy in a toffing-pan, with three ounces of boiled rice, a fpoonful of good cream, and a little catchup and rnufhroom powder. Thicken it with flour and butter, and give it a gentle boil. Fry your rumps till they be of a light brown ; and when you difh them up, lay them round on the rice, fo that the fmall ends may meet in the middle; lay a kidney between every rump, and garnifh with berberries and red cabbage. Mutton 122 MADE DISHES. Mutton Rumps a-la-braife. BOIL fix mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water; then take them out, and cut them into two, and put them into a ftew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion ftuck with cloves, and a little fait and chyan pepper. Cover them clofe, and flew them till they be tender. Take them and the onion out, and thicken the gravy with a little butter rolled in flour, a fpoonful of browning, and the juice of half a lemon. Boil it up till it be fmooth, but not too thick. Then put in your rumps, give them a top or two, and difh them up hot. Garnifh with horfe-radifh and beet-root. For variety, you may leave the rumps whole, and lard fix kidnies on one fide, and do them the fame as the rumps, only not boil them, and put the rumps in the middle of the difh, and kidnies round them, with the fauce over all. The kidnies make a pretty fide difh of themfelves. Shoulder of Mutton boiled with Onion Sauce. A fhoulder of mutton, or veal, may be boiled the fame way, which muft be put into the pot when the water be cold ; and when it be enough, fmother it with onion fauce. Mutton kebobbed. HAVING cut a loin of mutton into four pieces, take off the fkin, rub them with the yolk of an egg, and ftrew over them a few crumbs of bread, and a little parfley fhred fine. Spit and roafl them, and keep baft- ing them all the time with frefh butter, in order to make the froth rife. When they be properly done, put a little brown gravy under them, and make ufe of pickles for garnifh. Mutton the d’urkijh way. HAVING cut your meat into thin Dices, wafh it in vinegar, and put it into a pot or faucepan that has a clofe cover to it. Put in fome rice, whole pepper, and three or four whole onions. Let all thefe flew together, fkimming it frequently. When it be enough, take owt 8 the MADE DISHES. 123 the onions, and feafon it with fait to your palate. Lay the mutton in the difh, and pour the rice and liquor over it. The neck and leg are the bell joints to dreis this way. To a leg, put in four quarts of water, and a quarter of a pound of rice: to a neck, two quarts of water* and two ounces of rice. To every pound of meat allow a quarter of an hour, being clofely covered. If you put in a blade or two of mace, and a bundle of fweet herbs, it will be a great addition. When it be juft enough, put in a piece of butter, and take care the rice do not burn to the pot. In all thefe things, you fhould lay fkewers at the bottom of the pot to lay your meat on, that it may not ftick. Leg of Mutton a la haut gout. TAKE a leg of mutton, and let it hang for a fort¬ night in any place ; then ftuff every part of it with fome cloves of garlic, rub it with pepper and fait, and then roaft it. When it be properly roafted, fend it up, with fome good gravy and red wine in the difh. Leg of Mutton roafted with Cockles . STUFF your mutton in every part with cockles, roaft it, and garnifh with horfe-radifh. Leg of Mutton roafted with Oyfters. T AKE a leg of mutton that has been two or three days killed, ftuff every part of it with oyfters, roaft it, and garnifh as above. Mutton Chops in difguife. HAVING got what number of mutton chops you pleafe, rub them with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and a little parfley. Roll each chop in half a fheet of white paper, well buttered in the infide, and rolled clofe at each end. Boil fome hog’s-lard or beef-dripping in a ftew-pan, and put the fteaks into it. Fry them of a fine brown, lay them in your difh, and garnifh with fried parfley. Serve them up with good gravy in a fauce-boat; but be particularly careful, that you do not break the paper, nor have any fat in the difh; to prevent which, they fhould be drained carefully. Shoulder MADE DISHES, 124 Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. \ TAKEa fhoulder of mutton, and when it beroafted almoft enough, carefully take off the fkin about the thicknefs of a crown piece, and alfo the fhank bone at the end. Then feafon both the fkin and fhank bone with pepper and fait, a little lemon-peel cut fmall, and a few fweet herbs and crumbs of bread. Lay this on the gridiron, till it be of a fine brown; and in the mean time, take the reft of the meat, and cut it like a hafh, about the bignefs of a fhilling. Save the gravy, and put it to it, with a few fpoonfuls of ftrong gravy, a little nutmeg, half an onion cut fine, a fmall bundle of herbs, a little pepper and fait, fome gerkins cut very fmall, a few mufhrooms, two or three truffles cut fmall, two fpoonfuls of wine, and a little flour dredged into it. Let all thefe flew together very flowly for five or fix minutes, taking care that it do not boil. Take out the fweet herbs, lay the hafh in the difb, and the broiled upon it. Scotch Collops. CUT your collops off the thick part of a leg of veal, the fize and thicknefs of a crown piece, and put a piece of butter browned in your toffing-pan. Then lay in your collops, and fry them over a quick fire. Shake and turn them, and keep them on a fine froth. When they be fried of a light brown, put them into a pot, and fet them upon the hearth, to keep them warm. Put cold butter again into your pan every time you fill it, and fry them as before, and fo continue till you have finifhed them. When you have fried them all biown, pour the gravy from them into a tofflng-pan, with half a pint of gravy made of the bones and bits you cut the collops oftj half a lemon, a little anchovy, half an ounce of morels, a large fpoonful of browning, the fame of catchup, two tea-fpoonfuls of lemon-pickle, and feafon to your tafte with fait and chyan pepper. Thicken it with butter and flour, let it boil five or fix minutes, and then put in your collops, and fhake them over the fire, but take care not to let them boil. When they have fimmered MADE DISH E S. 12 S fimmered a little, take them out with an egg-fpoon„ and lay them on the dilh. Then ftrain your gravy, and pour it hot on them. Lay on them forcemeat balls, and little dices of bacon curled round a fkewer and boiled. Throw a few mufhrooms over them, and gar- nifh with berberries and lemon. Sweet-breads a-la-dauh. H AY IN G procured three of the fin eft and largeft fweet-breads, put them for five minutes in a faucepan of boiling water. Then take them out, and when they be cold, lard them with little pieces of bacon, a row down the middle ; then a row on each fide, with le¬ mon-peel cut the fize of a ftraw; then ‘a row on each fide of pickled cucumbers, cut very fine. Put them into a tofiing-pan, with good veal gravy, a little juice of lemon, and a lpoonful of browning. Stew them gently for a quarter of an hour, and a little before they be ready, thicken with flour and butter. Difli them up, and pour the gravy over them ; lay round them bunches of boiled celery, or oyfter patties, .and garnifli with ber¬ berries or parfley. Oxford John. CUT a ftale leg of mutton into as thin collops as you can, and take out all the fat finews. Seafon them , with fait, pepper, and mace, and ftrew among them a little Hired parfley, thyme, and two or three fhalots. Put a good lump of butter into a ftewpan, and as loon as it be hot, put in all your collops. Keep ftirring them with a wooden fpoon till they be three parts done, and then add half a pint of gravy, a little juice of lemon, and thicken it with flour and butter. Let them fimmer four or five minutes, and jthey will be quite enough; but if you let them boil, or have them ready before you want them, they will grow hard. Throw fried pieces of bread, cut in dices, over and round them, and ferve them up hot. Lamb's Head. HAVING fkinned the head, fplit it, and take out the black part of the eyes. Then wafli and clean it well, and 126 MADE DISHES. and lay it in warm water till it look white. Wafh and clean the purtenances, take off the gall, and lay them in water. Having boiled it half an hour, mince very fmall the heart, liver, and lights, and put the mince¬ meat in a toffing-pan, with a quart of mutton gravy, half a lemon, a little catchup, and fome pepper and fait. Thicken it with flour and butter, a fpoonful of cream, and juft boil it up. When the head be boiled, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ftrew over it crumbs of bread, a little fhred parfley, and fome pepper and fait. Bafte it well with butter, and brown it before the fire, or with a falamander. Put the purtenances in the difh, lay the head over it, and garnifh with pickle or lemon. j Lamb's Bits. T O drefs a difh of lamb bits, fkin the ftones, and fplit them. Lay them on a dry cloth with the fweet- breads and liver, and dredge them well with flour. Frv them in lard or butter till they be of a light brown, and then lay them on a fieve to drain. Fry a good quantity of parfley, lay your bits on the difh, the parfley in lumps over it, and pour round them melted butter. Leg of Lamb forced. TAKE out all the meat with a fharp knife, and care¬ fully leave the fkin and fat whole on it. Make the lean you cut out of it into forcemeat, in this manner: to ten pounds of meat add three of beef fuet cut fine, and nicely pounded in a marble mortar. Take away all the fkin of the fuet, and mix that and the meat with four fpoonfuls of grated bread, eight or ten cloves, five or fix large blades of mace, dried and beaten fine, half a large nutmeg grated, a little pepper and fait, a little le¬ mon-peel cut fine, a very little thyme, fome parfley, and four eggs. Mix all together, put it into the fkin again juft as it was, in the lame fhape, few it up, roaft it, and bafte it with butter. Cut the loin into fteaks, and fry it nicely. Lay the leg in the difh, and the loin round it. Then ferve it up, with a pint of good gravy poured into the difh. Lamb. MADE DISHES. 127 Lamb Chops en Caforole. H AVIN G cut a loin of lamb into chops, put yolks of eggs on both (ides, and ftrew over it crumbs of bread, with a little cloves and mace, pepper and falti mixed. Fry them of a nice light brown, and put them round in a difn as clofe as you can; but leave a hole in the middle to put the following fauce in : all forts of fweec herbs and parfley chopped tine, ftewed a little in fome good thick gravy. Garnifh with fried parfley. Barbacued Pig . HAVING dreffed a pig of ten weeks old, as if it were to be roafted, make a forcemeat in the following manner. Take the liver of the pig, two anchovies, and fix fage leaves, and chop them very fmall. Then put them into a marble mortar, with the crumbs of half a penny loaf, half a pint of red wine, four ounces of but¬ ter, and half a tea-fpoonful of chyan pepper. Beat them all together to a pafte, put it into your pig’s belly, and few it up. Lay your pig down at a good diftance before a large brifk fire, and finge it well. Put into your drip¬ ping-pan three bottles of red wine, bade it with the wine all the time it be roafting, and when it be half roafted, put under the pig two penny loaves. If there be not wine enough, put in more, and when the pig be near enough, take the loaves and fauce out of the dripping- pan, and put to the fauce half a lemon, a bundle of fweet herbs, and an anchovy chopped fmall. Boil it a few minutes, and then draw your pig, after having roaft¬ ed it four hours; put into the pig’s mouth an apple, or a fmall lemon, and a loaf on each fide. Strain your fauce, and pour it on them boiling hot, and lerve it up garnifhed with flices of lemon and herberries. A Pig au Pere Duillet. HAVING cut off the head, and divided the pig into quarters, lard them with bacon, and feafon them well with fait, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Place a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a kettle, lay the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Then m 128 MADE DISHES. put .in a bay leaf, an onion fhred, a lemon, fome car¬ rots, parfley, and livers, and cover it again with bacon. Put in a quart of broth, flew it for an hour, and then take it up. Put your pig into adewpan, pour in a bot¬ tle of white wine, cover it clofe, and let it flew for an hour very (lowly. If you ferve it up cold, let it (land till it be fo then drain it well, and wipe it, that it mar look white, and lay it in a difh, with the head in the middle, and the quarters round it. Throw fome green parfley over all. Either of the quarters leparately make a pretty difh. If you ferve it up hot, you muff, while the pig be dewing in the wine, take the fird gravy it was dewed in, and fkim off the fat, and drain it. Then take a fweet-bread cut into five or fix dices, fome truf¬ fles, morels, and mufhrooms, and dew all together till they be enough. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, or a piece of butter rolled in dour ; and when your pig be enough, take it out, and lay it in your difh. Put the wine it was dewed in to the ragoo, and then pour it all over the pig, and ufe lemon for garnifh. A Pig Matelote. H AVIN G gutted and fealded your pig, and taken off the head and pettitoes, cut your pig into four quar¬ ters, and put them, with the head and toes, into cold water. Cover the bottom of a dewpan with dices of bacon, and place the quarters over them, with the pet¬ titoes, and the head cut in two. Seafon the whole with pepper and fait, a bay leaf, a little thyme, an onion, and add a bottle of white wine. Then lay on more dices of bacon, put over it a quart of water, and let it boil. Skin and gut two large eels, and cut them in pieces about five or fix inches long. When your pig be half done, put in your eels; then boil a dozen of large craw-fidi, cut off the claws, and take off the fhells of the tail. When your pig and eels be enough, lay fird your pig in the difh, and your pettitoes round it; but do not put in the head, as that will make a pretty cold difii. Then lay your eels and craw-fifh over them, and take the liquor they were dewed in 3 fkim off the MADE DISHES. 129 far, and add to ic half a pint of ftrong gravy, thickened with a little piece of burnt butter. Pour this over it, and garnifh with lemon and avw-fifh. Fry the brains, and lay them round and all over the diflu This will do for a firft courfe or remove. A Goofe a-la-mcde. PICK a large fine goofe clean, fkin and bene it nice¬ ly, and take off the fat. Then take a dried tongue, and boil and peel it. Take a fowl, and treat it in the fame manner as the goofe; feafon it with pepper, fait, and beaten mace, and roll it round the tongue. Seafon the goole in the fame manner, and put both tongue and fowl into the goofe. Put it into a little pot that will juft hold it, with two quarts of beef gravy, a bundle of fweet herbs, and an onion. Put fome fiices of ham, or good bacon, between the fowl and goofe ; then cover it clofe, and ftew it over a fire for an hour very fiowly. Then take up your goofe, and fkim off all the fat; ftrain it, and put in a glafs of red wine, two fpoonfuls of catch¬ up, a veal fweet-bread cut final!, fome truffles, mufti- rooms, and morels, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and, if wanted, fome pepper and fait. Put the goofe in again, cover it clofe, and let it ftew half an hour longer. Then take it up, pour the ragoo over it, and garnifh with lemon. You muft remember to fave the bones of the goofe and fowl, and put them, into the gravy when it be firft fet on. It will be an improvement, if you roll fome beef marrow between the tongue and the fowl, and between the fowl and goofe, as it will make them meilow, and eat the finer. Before we conclude this article, it may not be amifs to obferve, that the beft method to bone a goofe or fowl of any fort, is to begin at the breaft, and take out all the bones without cut¬ ting the back; for when it be fewed up, and you come to ftew it, it generally burfts in the back, whereby the fhape of it is lpoiled. Ducks a-la-mode. CUT a couple of fine ducks into quarters, and fry them in butter till they be a little brown. Then pour K out MADE DISHES. 130 out all the fat, dull a little flour over them, and put in half a pint of good gravy, a quarter of a pint of red wine, an anchovy, two fhalots, and a bundle of fweet herbs. Cover them clofe, and let them ftew a quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs, fkim off the fat, and let your fauce be as thick as cream. Garnifh with le¬ mon or berberries, and fend it up to table. Ducks a-la-braije. H AVIN G finged and drefied your ducks, lard them quite through with bacon rolled in flared parfley, onions, thyme, pepper, fait, and beaten mace. Put a few flices of fat bacon in the bottom of a dewpan, the fame of gammon of bacon or ham, two or three flices of beef or veal, and lay your ducks in with their breads down¬ wards. Cover the ducks with flices the fame as you put under them, and cut in a carrot or two, a turnip, a head of celery, an onion, four or five cloves, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper. Cover them clofe down, and let them fimmer a little over a gentle dove till the bread be of a light brown. Then put in fome broth or wa¬ ter, cover them down again as clofely as you can, and dew them gently till they be enough, which will require two or three hours. Then take fome parfley, an onion or fhalot, a few gerkins or capers, and two anchovies; chop them all very flne, and put them in a dew'pan, with part of the liquor from the ducks, a little brown¬ ing, and the juice of a lemon. Boil it up, and cut the ends of the bacon even with the breads of your ducks. I -ay them on your difh, pour the fauce hot upon them, and ferve them up. Turkey a-la-daube. CAREFULLY bone your turkey, without fpoil- ing the look of it, and duff it with the following force¬ meat: Chop fome oyflers very fine, take fome crumbs of bread, pepper, fait, and fhalots, and a very little thyme, parfley, and butter. Having filled your turkey with this as full as you think proper, few it up, tie it in a cloth, and boil it white j but be cautious not to boil 9 ic MADE DISHES. 131 it too much. You may ferve it up with good oyfler fauce, or you may make a rich gravy of the bones, with a piece of veal, mutton, and bacon, feafoned with fair, pepper, fhalots, and a little mace. Strain it off through a fteve ; and having before half boiled your turkey, fcew it in this gravy juft half an hour. Having well fkim- med the gravy, difh up your turkey in it, after you have thickened it with a few mufhrooms ftewed white, or ftewed palates, forcemeat balls, lweet-breads, or fried oyfters, and pieces of lemon. Difh it with the bread: upwards. If you choofe it, you may add a few morels and truffles to your fauce. Fowls a-la-braij'e. HAVING fkewered your fowl as for boiling, with- the legs in the body, lay on it a layer of fat bacon, cut in pretty thin ftices ; then wrap it round in beet leaves, then in a caul of veal, and put it in a large faucepan, with three pints of water, a bunch of fweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, a gill of Madeira wine, and half a lemon. Stew it till it be quite tender, then take it up, and fkim off the fat, and thicken your gravy with flour and butter. Strain it through a hair fieve, and put to it a pint of oyfters, about a gill of thick cream, and keep fhaking your tofiing-pan over the fire. When it has ftmmered a little, ferve up your fowl with the bacon, beet-leaves, and caul on, and pour your hot fauce upon it. Berberries or red beet-root may be ufed as a garnifh. Fowls forced. PICK a large fowl clean, cut open die bread, and take out the ent.aiis. Take the fkin off whole, and having cut the flefh from the bones, chop it with half a pint of oyfters, an ounce of beef marrow, and a little pepper and fait. Mix it up with cream, and lay the meat on the bones; then draw the fkin over it, and / few up the bread. Then cut large thin dices of bacon, and lay them over the bread: of your fowl; tie on the bacon with packthread, and road it for an hour before a moderate lire. Make good brown gravy fauce ; pour K 2 it MADE DISHES. I 32 in on your difh, take off the bacon, and lay in your fowl Serve it up, garniihed with oy tiers, mufhrooms or pickles. Artificial Chickens cr Pigeons. HAVING made a rich forcemeat with chickens, lamb, or veal, a piece of fat bacon, a little butter, the yolk of an egg, and fome parfley, feafoned with pepper* fait, and a flaalot, work it up into the fhape of chickens or pigeons, putting the feet of the bird you intend it for in the middle, fo as juft to appear at the bottom. Roll the forcemeat in the yolk of an egg, then in c umfcs of bread, and fend them to the oven, on tin plates well buttered, and do not let them touch each other. Bake them of a light brown, and pour gravy into the difh, or fend them to table dry. Chickens in javory Jelly. TAKE two chickens, and roaft them. Boil fome calf’s feet to a ftrong jelly; then take out the feet, and fkim off the fat; beat up the whites of three eggs, and mix them with half a pint of white wine vinegar, the juice of three lemons, a blade or two of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a little fait. Put them to your jelly ; and when it has boiled five or fix minutes, ftrain it fe- veral times through a jelly-bag till it be very clear. Then put a little in the bottom of a bowl large enough to hold your chickens, and when they be cold, and the jelly fet, lay them in with their breafts down. Then fill your bowl quite full with the reft of your jelly, which you mull take care to keep from fetting, fo that when you pour it into the bowl it will not break. Let it ftand all night; and the next day put your bafon into warm water, pretty near the top. As fooi\ is you find it loofe in the bafon, lay your difh over it, and turn it out whole. Chicken Surf rife. ONE large fowl will do for a fin all difh. Roaft it, and take the lean from the bones; cut it into thin fiices, about an inch long, and tofs it up with fix or feven fpoon- fuis of cream, and a piece of butter, as big as a walnut, rolled in flour. Boil it up and let it to cool. Then cut MADE DISHES. U 3 cut flit or feven thin Dices of bacon round it, place them in a pattypan, and put fome forcemeat on each fide. Work them up into the form of a French roll, with a raw egg in your hand, leaving a hollow place in the middle. Put in your fowl, and cover them with fome of the fame forcemeat, rubbing them frnooth with your hand and a raw egg. Make them of the height and bignefs of a French roll, and throw a little fine grated bread over them. Bake them three quarters, or an hour, in a gentle oven, or under a baking cover, till they come to a fine brown, and place them on your mazarine, that they may not touch one another; but place them fo that they may not fall flat in the baking; or you may form them on your table with a broad kitchen knife, and place them on the thing you intend to bake them on. You may put the leg of a chicken into one of the loaves you intend for the middle. L.et your fauce be gravy, thickened with butter, and a little juice of lemon. This is a pretty fide difli for a firft courfe, fummer or winter, if you can get them. Chickens Chiringrate. IT A V IN G cut off the feet of your chickens, break the bread bone flat with a rolling-pin; but take care you do not break the fkin. Flour them, fry them of a fine brown in butter, and then drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave the chickens in. L.ay a pound of gravy- beef, cut very thin, over your chickens, and a piece of veal cut very thin, a little mace, two or three cloves, fome whole pepper, an onion, a little bunch of fweet herbs, and a piece of carrot. Then pour in a quart of boiling water, cover it clofe, and let it flew for a quar¬ ter of an hour. Then take out the chickens, and keep them hot ; let the gravy boil till it be quite rich and good, and then drain it off, and put it into your pan again, with two fpoonfuls of red wine, and a few mufh- rooms. Put in vour chickens to heat, then take them up, lay them into your difli, and pour your fauce over them. Garnifli with lemon, and a few dices of cold ham broiled. K 3 Chickens 134 MADE DISHES. Chickens and Tongues. BOIL fix finall chickens very white; then take fix hogs tongues boiled and peeled, a cauliflower boiled whole in milk and water, and a good deal of fpinach boiled green. Then lay your cauliflower in the mid¬ dle, the chickens clofe all round, and the tongues round them with the roots outwards, and the fpinach in little heaps between the tongues. Garnifh with little pieces of bacon toafted, and lay a little piece on each of the tongues. This is a good difh for a large company. Large Fowls forced. H AVI N G cut the fkin of a large fowl down the break, carefully flip it down fo as to take out all the meat, and mix it with a pound of beef fuet cut fmall. Then beat them together in a marble mortar, and take a pint of large oyfters cut fmall, two anchovies, a fhalot, a few fweet herbs, a little pepper, fome nutmeg grated, and the yolks of four eggs. Mix all thefe together, and lay it on the bones, then draw the fkin over it, and few it up. Put the fowl into a bladder, and boil it an hour and a quarter. Stew fome oyfters in good gravy, thickened with a piece of butter rolled in flour, take the fowl out of the bladder, lay it in your difh, and pour the fauce over it. Garnifh with lemon. It eats much better roafted, with the fame fauce. Fowls marinated. WITH your finger raife the fkin from the breaft- bone of a large fowl, or turkey; cut a veal fweet-bread fmall, a few oyfters, and mufhrooms, an anchovy, a little thyme, fome lemon-peel, and feafon them with pepper and nutmeg. Chop them fmall, and mix it with the yolk of an egg. Stuff it in between the fkin and the fiefh, but be careful not to break the fkin, and then fluff what quantity of oyfters you pleafe into the fowl. If you think proper, you may lard the bread of your fowl with bacon. Roaft it with a paper over the bread, make good gravy, and garnifh with lemon. Pullet * MADE DISHES. 135 Pullets a la Sainte Menehout. H AVIN G truflfed the legs in the body, flit them along the back, fpread them open on a table, take out the thigh-bones, and beat them with a rolling-pin. Then feafon them with pepper, fait, mace, nutmeg, and fweet herbs. After that take a pound and a half of veal, cut it into thin flices, and lay it in a ftewpan of a convenient fize, to flew the pullets in. Cover it, and fet it over a Hove or flow fire, and when it begins to cleave to the pan, dir in a little flour, fliake the pan about till it be a little brown, and then pour in as much broth as will flew the fowls. Stir them together, put in a little whole pepper, an onion, and a little piece of bacon or ham. Then lay in your fowls, cover them clofe, and let them flew half an hour. Then take them out, lay them on the gridiron to brown on the infide, and then lay them before the fire to do on the outfide. Strew them over with the yolk of an egg, fome crumbs of bread, and bafle them with a little butter. Let them be of a fine brown, and boil the gravy till there be about enough for fauce. Strain it, put in a few mufhrooms, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. Lay the pullets in the difh, put in the fauce, and garnifh with lemon. You may either fry them, or brown them in the oven. Pigeons compote. SKEWER fix young pigeons in the fame manner as for boiling, put forcemeat into the craws, lard them down the bread, and fry them brown. Put them into ftrong brown gravy, and when they have dewed three quarters of an hour, thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Make your forcemeat in this manner. Grate the crumb of half a penny loaf, and fcrape a quar¬ ter of a pound of fat bacon, which will anfwer the pur- pofe better than fuet: Chop a little parfley and thyme, two fhalots, or an onion, fome lemon-peel, and a little nutmeg grated j feafon them with pepper and fait, and mix them up with eggs. When you ferve them up, drain your gravy over them, and lay forcemeat balls round them. K 4 Pigeons MADE DISHES. 136 Pigeons Fricando. H AVIN G picked, drawn, and wafhed your pigeons very clean, (luff their craws, and lard them down the fides of the bread:. Fry them of a fine brown in butter, and then put them into a toffing-pan, with a quart of gravy. Stew them till they be tender; then take off the fat, and put in a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle, a large fpoonful of walnut catchup, the fame of brown¬ ing, a little fait, and chyan pepper. Thicken your gravy, and add half an ounce of morels, and four yolks of eggs boiled hard. Lay the pigeons in your difh, put the morels and eggs round them, and ftrain your fauce over them. Serve it up, garnifhed with lemon- peel and berberries. Pigeons in favcry Jelly. AFTER you have roafted your pigeons with the head'and feet on, put a fprig of myrtle in their bills, and make a jelly for them in the fame manner as be¬ fore directed for chickens, and treat them the fame in every other refpect. Pigeons a-la-daub. PUT a layer of bacon in a large faucepan, then a layer of veal, a layer of coarfe beef, and another little layer of veal, about a pound of beef and a pound of veal, cut very thin ; a piece of carrot, a bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, lome black and white pepper, a blade or two of mace, and four or five cloves. Cover the faucepan clofe, fet it over a flow fire, draw it till it be brown, to make the gravy of a fine light brown. Then put in a quart of boiling water, and let it ftew till the gravy be quite rich and good. Then ftrain it off, and flkim off all the fat. In the mean time, ftuff the bellies of the pigeons with forcemeat, made thus ; take a pound of veal, a pound of beef fuet, and beat both fine in a mortar; an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, fome pepper, fait, nutmeg, beaten mace, a little lemon-peel cut fmall, fome parfley cut fmall, and a very little thyme ftripped. Mix all together with the yolks of two two eggs, fill the pigeons, and flat the breads down. Then flour them, and fry them in frefh butter, a little brown. Then pour the fat clean out of the pan, and put the gravy to the pigeons. Cover them clofe, and let them dew a quarter of an hour, or till you think they be quite enough. Then take them up, lay them in a difh, and pour in your fauce. On each pigeon lay a bay-leaf, and on the' leaf a flice of bacon. You may garnifla with a lemon notched; but it will do without. You may leave out the duffing, as it will be rich enough without it. Pigeons an Pcire. HAVING made a forcemeat like the above, and cut off the feet, duff them in the fhape of a pear 5 roll them in the yolk of an egg, and then in crumbs of bread ; dick the leg at top, and butter a difii to lay them in ; then fend them to an oven to bake, but do not let them touch each other. When they be enough, lay them in a difh, and pour in good gravy thickened with the yolk of an egg, or butter rolled in flour; but do not pour your gravy over the pigeons. You may gar- nifh with lemon. This is a pretty genteel difh; or, for change, lay one pigeon in the middle, the red round, and dewed fpinach between, with poached eggs on the fpinach. Garnilh with notched lemon and orange cut into quarters, and have melted butter in boats. Pigeons Surtout. H AV TNG forced your pigeons, lay a dice of bacon on the bread, and a flice of veal beat with the back of a knife, and feafoned with mace, pepper, and lalt. Tie it on with a fmall packthread, or two fmall fine fkewers are better. Spit them on a fine bird-fpit, road them, and bade them with a piece of butter, then with the yolk of an egg, and then bade them again with the crumbs of bread, a little nutmeg, and fweet herbs. When they be enough, lay them in your difh, have good gravy ready, with truffles, morels, and mufhrooms, to pour into your difli, and garnldi with lemon. French MADE DISHES. 138 French Pupton of Pigeons. PUT favory forcemeat, rolled out like pafte, into a butter-difh ; put a layer of very thin bacon, fquab pi¬ geons, diced fweet-bread, afparagus tops, mufhrooms, cocks-combs, a palate boiled tender and cut into pieces, and the yolks of hard eggs. Make another forcemeat, and lay it over like a pye. Then bake it, and when it be enough, turn it into a difh, and pour gravy round it. Pigeons tranfmogrified. SEASON your pigeons with pepper and fait. Take a large piece of butter, make a puff-pafte, and roll each pigeon in a piece of pafte. Tie them in a cloth, fo that the pafte do not break, and boil them in a good deal of water. When they have boiled an hour and a half, untie them carefully that they do not break. Lay them on the difh, and you may pour a little good gravy into the difh. They will eat exceedingly nice, and will yield fauce enough of a very agreeable relifh. Pigeons a la Scujfel. BONE four pigeons, and make a forcemeat as for pigeons compote. Stuff them, and put them into a fiewpan with a pint of veal gravy. Stew them half an hour very gently, and then take them out. In the mean time make a veal forcemeat, and wrap it all round them. Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and fry them of a nice brown in good dripping. Take the gravy they were ftewed in, fkim off the fat, thicken with a little butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg, and a gill of cream beat up. Seafon it with pepper and fait, mix it all together, and keep it ftirring one way till it be fmooth. Strain it into your difh, and put the pigeons on. Garnifh with plenty of fried parfley. You may leave out the egg and cream, and put in a fpoonful of browning, and a little lemon pickle and catchup. Partridges a-la-hraife. TRUSS two brace of partridges with the legs into the bodies ; lard them, and feafon with beaten mace, pepper. / MADE DISHES. j 39 pepper, and fait. Take a ftewpan, lay Dices of bacon at the bottom, then Dices of beef, and then Dices of veal, all cut thin ; a piece of carrot, an onion cut fmall, a bundle of fweet herbs, and fome whole pepper. Lay the partridges with their breads downwards, lay fome thin Dices of beef and veal over them, and fome parDey fhred fine. Cover them, and let them ftew eight or ten minutes over a Dow fire. Then give your pan a (hake, and pour in a pint of boiling water. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew half an hour over a little quicker fire. Then take out your birds, keep them hot, pour into the pan a pint of thin gravy, and let them boil till there be about half a pint. Then (train it off, and fidm off all the fat. In the mean time, have a veal fweet-bread cut fmall, truffles and morels, cocks-combs, and fowls livers (tewed in a pint of good gravy half an hour, fome artichoke bottoms, and afparagus tops, both blanched in warm water, and a few mulhrooms. Then add the other gravy to this, and put in your partridges to heat. If it be not thick enough, take a piece of butter rolled in flour, and tofs up in it. If you will be at the ex¬ pence, you may thicken it with veal and ham cullis; but it will be full as good without it. Pheafants a-la-braife. H AV 1 N G put a layer of beef all over your pan, a layer of veal, a little piece of bacon, a piece of carrot, an onion (luck with cloves, a blade or two of mace, a fpoonful of pepper, black and white, and a bundle of fweet herbs, lay in the pheafant. Then lay a layer of beef, and a layer of veal, to cover it. Set it on the fire for five or fix minutes, and then pour in two quarts of boiling gravy. Cover it clofe, and let it (tew very foftly an hour and a half. Then take up your pheafant, and keep it hot. Let the gravy boil till it be reduced to about a pint, and then (train it off, and put it in again. Put in a veal fweet bread, firft being (tewed with the pheafant. Then put in fome truffles and morels, fome livers of fowls, ardchoke bottoms, and afparagus top s> >f you have them. Let thefe fimmer in the gravy about five i 4 o MADE DISHES. five or fix minutes, and then add two fpoonfuls of catchup, two of red wine, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour, with a fpoonful of browning. Shake all together, put in your pheafant, let them flew all together, with a few mufhrooms, about five or fix minutes more. Then take up your pheafant, and pour your ragoo all over, with a few forcemeat balls. Garni ill with lemon. You may lard it, if you think proper fo to do. Small Birds in Javory Jelly. PUT a good piece of butter into the bellies of eight fmall birds, with their heads and feet on, and few up their vents. Put them in a jug, cover it clofe with a cloth, and fet them in a kettle of boiling water, till they be enough. Drain them, and make your jelly as before, and put a little into a bafon. When it be fet, lay in three birds with their breaks down, and cover them with the jelly. When it be fet, put in the other five, with their heads in the middle, and proceed in the fame man¬ ner as before directed for chickens. Florendine Hares. LET your hare be a full-grown one, and let it hang up four or five days before you cafe it. Leave on the ears, but take out all the bones, except thole of the head, which mull be left entire. Lay your hare on the table, and put into it the following forcemeat: Take the crumb of a penny loaf, the liver ihred fine, half a pound of fat bacon fcraped, a glafs of red wine, an anchovy, two eggs, a little winter favory, fome fweet marjoram, thyme, and a little pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Having put this into the belly, roll it up to the head, fkewer it with packthread, as you would a collar of veal. Wrap it in a cloth, and boil it an hour and a half, in a fauce- pan covered, with two quarts of water. As foon as the liquor be reduced to about a quart, put in a pint of red wine, a fpoonful of lemon pickle, one of catchup, and the fame of browning. Then flew it till it be reduced to a pint, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Lay round your hare a few morels, and four Dices*of force¬ meat MADE DISHES. 141 meat boiled in a caul of a leg of veal. When you difli it up, draw the jaw bones, and flick them in the eyes for horns. Let the ears lie back on the roll, and (tick a fprig of myrtle in the mouth. Strain your lauce over it, and garnifh with berberries and parfley. Florendine Rabbits . SKIN three young rabbits, but leave on the ears, and wafh and dry them with a cloth. Carefully take out the bones, but leave the head whole, and proceed in the fame manner as above directed for the hare. Elave ready a white fauce made of veal gravy, a little an¬ chovy, the juice of half a lemon, or a tea-fpoonful of lemon-pickle. Strain it, and take a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, fo as to make the fauce pretty thick. Keep flirting it whilft the flour is diflblving. Beat the yolk of an egg, put to it fome thick cream, nutmeg, and fait, and mix it with the gravy. Let it fimmer a little over the fire, but not boil, and pour it over the rabbits. Rabbits furprifcd. TAKE young rabbits, fkewer them, and put the fame pudding into them as directed for roafted rabbits. When they be roafted, draw out the jaw-bones, and flick them in the eyes, to appear like horns. Then take off the meat clean from the bones ; but the bones muft be left whole. Chop the meat very fine, with a little flared parfley, fome lemon-peel, an ounce of beef marrow, a fpoonful of cream, and a little fait. Beat up the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a fmqjl piece of butter, in a marble mortar; then mix ail together, and put it into a toffing-pan. Having ftewed it five minutes, lay it on the rabbit where you took the meat off, and put it clofe down with your hand, to make it appear like a whole rabbit. Then with a falamander brown it all over. Pour a good brown gravy, made as thick as cream, into the difli, and (tick a bunch of myrtle in their mouths. Send them up to table, with their livers boiled and frothed. Rabbits. 142 MADE DISHES. Rabbits in Coffer ole. H AVIN G divided your rabbits into quarters, you may lard them or not, juft as you pleaie. Shake fome flour over them, and fry them in lard and butter. Then put them into an earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a glafs of white wine, a little pepper and fait, a bunch of fweet'Jherbs', and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Cover them clofe, and let them ftew half an hour; then difh them up, and pour the fauce over them. Garnifh with Seville oranges cut into thin dices, and notched. A Harico , by way of Jo up. CUT a large neck of mutton into two parts, and ^ put the fcrag part into a ftew-pan, with four large tur- / nips, and as many carrots, into a gallon of water. Let * it boil gently over a flow fire till all the goodnels be out of the meat, but not boiled to pieces. Then bruife the turnips and two of the carrots fine into the foup, by way of thickening it. Cut and fry fix onions in butter, and put them in. Then cut the other part of the mutton into chops of a moderate fize. Fry them in butter, put them to the foup, and let it ftew very flowly till the chops be very tender. Cut the other two carrots that were boiled into what fhape you plcafe, and put them in juft before you take it off the fire. Seafon it with pepper and fait to your tafte, and ferve it up in a foup- difli as hot as poflible. Cucumbers with Eggs. PARE, quarter, and cut fix large cucumbers into fquares, about the fize of a dice. Put them into boil¬ ing water, and give them a boil. Then take them out of the water, and put them into a ftew-pan, with an onion ftuck with cloves, a flice of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little fait. Set it over the fire a quarter of an hour, keep it clofe covered, fkim it well, and fhake it often, for it is apt to burn. Then dredge in a little flour, and put in as much veal gravy as will juft cover the cucumbers. Stir it well together, and keep a gentle fire under it till no fcum will rife. 'I'hen MADE DISHES. i 4 3 Then take out the ham and onion, and put in the yolks of two eggs beat up with a tea-cupful of good cream. Stir it well for a minute, then take it off the fire, and juft before you put it into the difh, fqueeze in a little lemon-juice. Lay on the top of it five or fix poached eggs- A Solomon-gundy. TAKE a handful of parlley, two pickled herrings, four boiled eggs, both yolks and whites, and the white part of a roafted chicken. Chop them feparately, and exceedingly fmall. Take the lean of fome boiled ham fcraped fine, and turn a china bafon upfide down in the middle of a difh. Make a quarter of a pound of butter into the fhape of a pine-apple, and let it on the baton’s bottom. Lay round your bafon a ring of fhred pariley, then a ring of yolks of eggs, then whites, then ham, then chickens, and then herrings, till you have covered your bafon, and difpofed of all the ingredients. Lay the bones of the pickled herrings upon it, with their tails up to the butter, and let their head lie on the edge of the difh. Lay a few capers, and three or four pickled oyfters round the difh. Maccaroni. HAVING boiled four ounces of maccaroni till it be quite tender, lay it on a fieve to drain, and then put it into a tofting-pan, with about a gill of cream, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Boil it five minutes, pour it on a plate, lay Parmefan cheefe toafted all over it, and, as it foon grows cold, lend it up on a water-plate. Amulets . BEAT fix eggs, ftrain them through a hair fieve, and put them into a frying-pan, in which muft be a quarter of a pound of hot butter. Throw in a little boiled ham fcraped fine, a little fhred parfley, and feafon them with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Fry it brown on the under fide, and lay it on your difh, but do not turn it. Hold a hot lalamander over it for half a minute, to take off the raw 4fcok of the eggs. Some put in 144 MADE DISHES. clary and chives, and fome put in onions. Serve it up with curled parfiey duck in it. Amulet of AJparagus. BEAT up fix eggs with cream, boil fome of the largeft and fineft afparagus, and when boiled cut off all the green in fmall pieces. Mix them with the eggs, and put in fome pepper and fait. Make a flice of butter hot in a pan, put them in, and ferve them up hot on buttered toaft. Tongue and Udder forced. H AVIN G parboiled the tongue and udder, blanch the tongue, and (lick it with cloves ; carefully raife the udder, and fill it with forcemeat made with veal; but fome, for the fake of variety, lard it. Firft wafh the infide with the yolk of an egg, and put in the force¬ meat; then tie the en'ds clofe, and fpit and roaft them. Bafte them well with butter, and when they be enough, put good gravy into the difh, and fweet fauce into a cup. If you choofe to force a tongue by itfelf, without the udder, proceed as follows: Having boiled the tongue till it be tender, let it Hand till it be cold, and then cut a hole at the root-end of it. Take out fome of the meat, chop it with the fame quantity of beef fuet, a few pippins, fome pepper and fait, a little beaten mace, fome nutmeg, a few fweet herbs, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat all together well in a marble mortar, then fluff the tongue with it, and cover the end with a veal caul, or buttered paper. Roaft it, bafte it with butter, and difh * it up. Take fome good gravy, a little melted butter, the juice of an orange or lemon, and fome grated nut¬ meg. Give it a boil, and pour it into the difh. Cutlets a la Maintenon. THIS is a very good difh, and is made in the fol¬ lowing manner: Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, with a bone in each, and take the fat off the bone, and fcrape it clean. Take fome crumbs of bread, parfiey, marjoram, thyme, and winter favory, and chop all fine; grate fome nutmeg in it, and feafon with pepper « and M A D E D I S H E S. 145 and fait. Having mixed thefe all together, melt a little butter in a ftew-pan, and dip the chops into the butter. Then roll them in the herbs, and put them in half fheets of buttered paper. Leave the end of the bone bare, and broil them on a clear fire for twenty minutes. Send them up in the paper, with the following fauce in a boat: Chop four fhalots fine, put them in half a gill of gravy, a little pepper and fait, and a fpoonful of vinegar, and boil them for a minute. Ham a-la-lraife. TAKE off the fkin, clear the knuckle, and lay it in water to frefhen. Then tie it about with a firing, and take dices of bacon and beef. Beat and feafon them well with fpices and fweet herbs, and lay them in the bottom of a kettle with onions, parfnips, and carrots fliced, with fame chives and parfiey. Lay in your ham the fat fide uppermoft, and cover it with dices of beef, and over that with dices of bacon. Then lay on fome fliced roots and herbs, the fame as under it. Cover it, and ftop it clofe with pafte. Put fire both over and under it, and let it ftew twelve hours with a very flow fire. Put it into a pan, dredge it well with grated bread, and brown it with a hot iron ; or put it into the oven, and bake it an hour. Then ferve it upon a clean nap¬ kin. Garnifh with raw parfiey. If it be to be eaten hot, make a ragoo thus: take a veal fweet-bread, fome livers of fowls, cocks-combs, mulhrooms, and truffles. Tofs them up in a pint of good gravy, feafoned with fpice to your tafte; thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a glafs of red wine. Then brown your ham, as above, and let it ftand a quarter of an hour to drain the fat out. Take the liquor it was ftewed in, ftrain it, fkim off all the fat, put it into the gravy, and boil it up with a fpoonful of browning. Some¬ times you may ferve it up with carp fauce, and fome- times with a ragoo of crawfifh. Smelts in Javory Jelly. H AVIN G gutted and walked your fmelts, feafon them with mace and fait, and lay them in a pot with L butter SAUCES. 146 butter over them. Tie them down with paper, and bake them half an hour. Take them out,. and when they be a little cool, lay them feparately on a board to drain. When they be quite cold, lay them in a deep- plate in what form you pleafe, pour cold jelly over them, and they will look like live fifh. Marinate Soles . BOIL your foies in fait and water, bone and drain? them, and lay them on a difh with their belly upwards.. Boil lome fpinach, and pound it in a mortar; then boil four eggs hard, chop the yolks and whites feparate, and lay green, white, and yellow, among the foies,, and ferve them up with melted butter in a boat. Oyfter Loaves. MAKE a round hole in the tops of fome little round loaves, and fcrape out all the crumbs. Put fome oyfters into a to fling-pan, with the oyfter liquor,, and the crumbs that were taken out of the loaves, and a large piece of butter. Stew them together for five or fix minutes; then put in a fpoonful of good cream, and fill your loaves. Then lay the bit of cruft carefully ora the top again, and put them, in the oven to crifp. CHAP. XII. SAUCES for every Occafion* Venifon Sauces. E ITHER of thefe fauces may be ufed for veniforr. Currant-jelly warmed; or half a pint of red wine, with a quarter of a pound of fugar, fimmered over a clear fire for five or fix minutes; or half a pint of vine¬ gar, and a quarter of a pound of fugar, fimmered till it be a fyrup. 147 SAUCES. Fo thicken Butter for Beafe , Greens , Fi/h, &e. PUT two or three fpoonfuls of water into a fauce¬ pan, juft enough to cover the bottom. When it boils, put in half a pound of butter. When the butter is melted, take the faucepan from the fire, and fhake it round for a good while till it be very fmooth, which it •will be, and never grow oily, although it may be cold, and heated again often, and is therefore proper to ufe on all occasions. Fo melt Butter . KEEP a plated or tin faucepan for the purpofe only of melting butter. Put a little water at the’ bottom, and a duft of flour. Shake them together, and cut the butter in dices. As it melts, fhake it one way; let it boil up, and it will be lmooth and thick. Fo clarify Butter . MELT it rather flowly, and then let it ftand a little. When it is poured into the pots, leave the milk which fettles at the bottom. Gravies. A S gravy-beef is not always to be procured, efpecially by thofe who live in villages remote from large towns, in fuch cafes, the following directions may be ufeful: When your meat comes from the butcher's, take a piece of beef, veal, and mutton, and cut them into fmall pieces. Take a large deep faucepan, with a cover, lay your beef at bottom, then your mutton, then a very little piece of bacon, a flice or two of carrot, fome mace, doves, whole black and white pepper, a large onion cut in dices, a bundle of fweet herbs, and then lay in your veal. Cover it clofe over a flow fire for fix or feven minutes, and fhake the faucepan often. Then duft fome flour into it, and pour in boiling water till the meat be fomething more than covered. Cover it clofe again,, and let it ftew till it be rich and good. Then feafon it to your tafte with fait, and ftrain it off, when you will have a gravy that will anfwer mod purpofes. La Or ♦ SAUCES. 148 Or you may ufe the following method : Take a radie? or two of bacon or ham, and lay it at the bottom of your dew-pan, Put either veal, mutton, or beef, cut into thin dices, over it. Then cut fome onions, turnips,, carrots, and celery, a little thyme, and fome alhfpice. Put a little water at the bottom; then let it on a gentle fire, and draw it till be brown at the bottom, which you will know by the pan’s hiding. Then pour boiling water over it, and dew it gently for an hour and a half; but the time it will take mud be regulated by the quantity. Seafon it with fait. Brown Gravy. TAKE half a pint of water, and the fame quantity of ale or fmall- beer that is not bitter. Cut an onion and a little piece of lemon-peel fmall; take three cloves, a blade of mace, fome whole pepper, a fpoonfui of tnufhroom pickle, the fame quantity of catchup, and an anchovy. Put a piece of butter, of the fize of a hen’s egg, into a faucepan, and when it be melted, fiake in a little dour, and let it be a little brown. Then by degrees' dir in the above ingredients, and let it boil a quarter of an hour. Then drain it, and it will be good fatice for fifh. ' Browning for made Difoes. T AKE four ounces of treble redned fugar, and beat it fmall. Put it into an iron frying-pan, with an ounce of butter, and fet it over a clear fire. Mix it well toge¬ ther all the time, and when it begins to be frothy, the fugar will be didolving. Hold it higher over the fire, and when the fugar and butter be of a deep brown, pour in a little red wine. Stir them well together, then add more wine, and keep dirring it all the time. Put in the out rind of a lemon, a little fait, three fpoonfuls of mufhroom catchup, two- or three blades of mace, fix cloves, four fhalots peeled, and half an ounce of Jamaica pepper. Boil them (lowly for ten minutes, pour it into a bafon, and when cold, bottle it up for ufe, having fid carefully fkimmed it. This is a very ufeful article, and SAUCES. 149 and fuch as the cook fhould never be without, it being almod of general ufe. Sicilian Sauce . TAKE half a fpoonful of coriander feeds, and four cloves, and bruife them in a mortar. Put three quarters of a pint of good gravy, and a quarter of a pint of effence of ham, into a ftewpan. Peel half a lemon, and cut it into very thin dices, and put it in with the cori¬ ander feeds and cloves. Let them boil up, then put in three cloves of garlic whole, a head of celery diced, two bay-leaves, and a little bafil. Let thefe boil till there is but half the quantity left. Then put in aglafs of white wine, drain it off, and if not thick enough, put in a piece of butter rolled in dour. It is very good with loaded fowls, and fome like it with butchers meat. Ham Sauce. WHEN a ham is almoft done-with, pick all the meat clean from the bone, and beat it with a rolling-pin to a mafli. Put it into a faucepan, with three fpoonfuls of gravy, and fet it over a flow Are; but keep flirting it all the while, or it will dick to the bottom. When it has been on fome time, add a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, and fome pepper, with half a pint of beef gravy. Cover it up, and let it dew over a gentle fire. When it is quite done, drain off the gravy. This is a very good fauce for veal. Sauce for any Kind of roofed Meat . TAKE an anchovy, wadi it, put to it a glafs of red wine, fome gravy, an efchalot cut fmall, and a little piice of lemon... Stew thefe a little together, and pour it to the gravy that runs from the meat. Sauce for a Shoulder of Mutton. WHEN the flioulder of mutton is more than half done, put a plate under it, with fome fpring-water in it, two or three fpoonfuls of red wine, a diced onion, a little grated nutmeg, an anchovy wadied and minced, $nd a bit of butter. Let the meat drop into it, and L 3 whea S A U C E S. 150 when it is taken up, put to it a fpoonful of vinegar. Put the fauce into a faucepan, give it a boil up, ftrain it through a fieve, and put it under the mutton. EJJence of Ham. TAKE three or fix pounds of good ham, take off all the fkin and fat, and cut the lean into Dices about an inch thick. Lay them in the bottom of a Rewpan, with Dices of carrots, parfnips, and three ox fix onions cut in Dices. Cover it down very clofe, and fet it over a Dove, or on a very gentle fire. Let them ftew till they Dick to the pan, but take care it does not burn. Then pour on fome Drong veal gravy by degrees, fome frefh mufh- rooms cut in pieces, if to be had, if not, mufhroom powder, fome truffles and morels, fome cloves, fome bafil, parDey, a cruD of bread, and a leek. Cover it down clofe, and let it fimmer till it be of a good Davour and thicknefs. When a ham is boiled, if it be not too fait, make ufe of the gravy, and it wall do without the ham, only it will not be quite fo high Davoured. Forcemeat Balls. THOUGH we have already, on feveral occafions, given diredlions for the making of forcemeat, yet, as it is an article of confequence inwall made diflies, we fhall here give it as a feparate and diRinft article. Take half a pound of veal, and half a pound of fuet, cut fine, and beat them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl. Shred a few fweet herbs fine, a little mace dried and beat fine, a fmall nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel cut very fine, fome pepper and fait, and the yolks of two eggs. Mix ail thel'e well together, then roll them in little round balls, and fome in long pieces. Roll them in flour, and fry them brown. If they be for the ufe of white fauce, put a little water in a faucepan, and put them in when the water boils. Let them boil a few minutes; but wher* they be ufed for white fauce, be fure not to fry them. Caper Sauce. TAKE fome capers, chop half of them, and put the reR in whole. Chop alfo a little parDey very fine, with SAUCES. m « with a little grated bread, and feme fait. Put thefe into fmooth-meited butter. Some only chop the capers a little, and put them into the butter, Apple Sauce . PARE, core, and dice fome apples, and put them with a little water into the faucepan, to keep them from burning, and put in a bit of lemon-peel. When they be enough, take out the peel, bruife the apples, and add a piece of butter, and a little fugar. * Mint Sauce . W AS H your mint perfectly clean from grit and dirt, .chop it very fine, and put to it vinegar and fugar. Sauce Robert. TAKE feme large onions, cut them into fquare pieces, and cut fome fat bacon in the fame manner. Put them together in a faucepan over the fire, and fiiake them round to prevent their burning. When they be brown, put in fome good veal gravy, with a little pepper and fait, and let them dew gently till the onions be tender. Then put in a little fait, fome milliard and vinegar, and ferve it hot. _ Sauce for a Pig . THERE are feveral ways for making fauge for a pig, but we fhall confine ourfelves to the following, being thofe which are mod generally ufed and efteempd. Having chopped the brains a little, put in a tea-fpoonful of white gravy, and the gravy that runs out of the pig, and a fmall piece of anchovy. Mix them with near half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will thicken the gravy; a flice of lemon, a fpoonful of white wine, fome caper liquor, and a little fait. Shake it over the ' fire, and pour it into your difh. Some boil a few cur¬ rants, and fend them in a tea-faucer, with a glafs of currant jelly in the middle of it. Others make their fauce in this manner: Cut off the outfide of a penny loaf, cut the red into very thin dices, and put it into a faucepan of cold water, with an onion, a few pepper L 4 corns. SAUCES. 152 corns, and a little fait. Boil it till it be of a fine pulp, then beat it well, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, and two fpoonfuls of thick cream. Make it hot/ and put it into a boat. Sauce for a Green Goofe, APPLE-fauce, directions for the making of which are given above, is the fauce generally made ufe of for a full-grown or Bubble goofe ; but with a green goofe, the following is preferable : Take fome melted butter, and put into it a fpoonful of forrel juice, a little fugar, and a few codied goofeberries. Pour it into your fauce- boat, and fend it up hot. Sauce for a Turkey. OPEN a pint of oyfters into a bafon, wafh them out of their liquor, and put them into another bafon. Pour the liquor, as foon as it be fettled, into a fauce- pan, and put to it a little white gravy, and a tea-fpoonful of lemon-piclde. Thicken it with flour and a large piece of butter, and then boil it three or four minutes. Put in a fpoonful of thick cream, and then your oyfters. Keep fhaking them over the fire till they be quite hot, but do not let them boil. Or you may make your fauce in the following man¬ ner : Take off the cruft of a penny loaf, and cut the reft in thin flices. Put it in cold water, with a little fait and an onion, and a few pepper-corns. Boil it till the bread be quite foft,' and then beat it well. Put in a quarter of a pound of butter, and two fpoonfuls of cream. White Sauce. TAKE the necks of fowls, a ferag of veal, or any bits of mutton or veal you may have by you, and put them into a faucepan, with a blade or two of mace, a few black pepper-corns, an anchovy, a head of celery, a dice of the end of a lemon, and a bunch of fweet herbs. Put to thefe a quart of water, cover it clofe, and let it boil till it be reduced to half a pint. Then {train it, and thicken it with a quarter or a pound of butter, mixed with flour, and boil it five or fix minutes. Then put SAUCES. *53 put in two fpoonfuls of pickled mufhrooms, and mix the yolks of two eggs with a tea-cupful of cream, and a little nutmeg grated. - Put in your fauce, keep fhaking it over the fire, but take care that it does not boil. This is an excellent fauce for fowls. ¥ Sauce for Pheafants and Partridges. THESE birds are generally ferved up with gravy- fauce in the difh, and bread fauce in a boat. Sauce for Larks. ALL the time your larks be roafting, keep bailing them with butter, and fprinkle crumbs of bread over them till they be almoil done. Then let them brown, and take them up. The belt method of making crumbs of bread is to rub them through a fine cullender, and then put a little butter into a flewpan. Melt your but¬ ter, put in your crumbs of bread, and keep flirring them till they be of a light brown. Let them lie on a fieve a few minutes to drain ; lay your larks in the difh, and your crumbs all round, almoft as high as the larks, with plain butter in one cup, and gravy in another. Sauces for a Hare. TAKE a pint of cream, and half a pound of frefh butter. Put them into a faucepan, and keep flirring them with a fpoon till the butter be melted, and the fauce thick. Then take up the hare, and pour the fauce into the difh. Another way to make fauce for a hare is, make good gravy, thickened with a little piece of butter rolled in flour, and pour it into your difh. You may omit the butter, if you have any objection to it, and have fome currant-jelly warmed in a cup ; or red wine and fugar boiled to a fyrup, in this manner: take half a pint of red wine, and a quarter of a pound of fugar, and fet it over a flow fire for about a quarter of an hour to fimmer. Sauce for boiled Pucks or Rabbits. POUR boiled onions over your ducks or rabbits m this manner. Peel your onions, and boil them in plenty of *54 SAUCES. of water. Then fhift your water, and boil them two hours longer. Take them up, and throw them into a> cullender to drain, and with a knife chop them on a board. Then put them into a faucepan, jfhake a little dour over them, and put in a little milk or cream, with a good piece of butter; Set them over the fire, and when the butter be melted, they will be enough. If you would have onion fauce in half an hour, take and peel your onions, and cut them into thin flices. Put them into milk and water, and they will be done in twenty minutes after the water boils. Then throw them into a cullender to drain, and chop them, and put them into a faucepan. Shake in a little flour, with a little cream, and a large piece of butter. Stir all together over the fire till the butter be melted, and they will be very fine. This is the beft way of boiling onions, ar8| is a good fauce for roafted mutton. Onion Sauce . THOUGH the diredHons given in the preceding article for making onion fauce may be fufficient, yet it may be expedted that we fhould mention here the com¬ mon method of making it. Boil eight or ten large onions, and change the water two or three times while they be boilipg. When they be enough, chop them on a board, to prevent their growing of a bad colour, and put them into a faucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and two fpoonfuls ot thick cream. Juft give them a boil up, and they will be done. Lebfier Sauce. TAKE a little mace and whole pepper, and boil them in water long enough to take out the ftrong tafte of the fpice. Then (train it off, and melt three quar¬ ters of a pound of butter fmooth in the water. Cut your lobfler in very fmall pieces, and flir it altogether, with anchovy, till it be tender. Or you may make it jn this manner. Bruife the body of a lobfler into thick melted butter, and cut the fiefh into it in fmall pieces. Stew SAUCES. US Stew all together, and give it a boil. Seafon it with a very fmall quantity of mace, and a little pepper and lalt. Sauce for Carp. S AV E all the blood of your carp when yon kill it, and have ready fome nice rich gravy made of beef and mutton, feafoned with pepper, fait, mace, and onion. Strain it off before you flew your fifh in it, and boil your carp firft before you flew it in the gravy; but be careful you do not boil your gravy too much before you put in your carp. Then flew it on a (low fire about a quarter of an hour, and thicken the fauce with a large piece of butter rolled in flour. Or you may make your fauce thus. Take the liver of the carp clean from the guts, three anchovies, a little parfley, thyme, and an onion. Chop thefe fmall together, and take half a pint of Rhenlfh wine, four fpoonfuls of vinegar, and the blood of the carp. Put all thefe together, ftew them gently, and put it to the carp, which mu ft firft be boiled in water with a little fait, and a pint of wine; but take care not to do it too much after the carp is put into the fauce. Cod's-Head Sauce. PICK out- a good lobfter, according to the direc¬ tions given in the lecond chapter, and ftick a fkewer in the vent of the tail to keep out the water. Throw a handful of lalt into the water, and when it boils put in the lobfter, which mull boil half an hour. If it has lpawn, pick them off, and pound them exceedingly fine in a marble mortar. Put them into half a pound of good melted butter, then take the meat out of your lobfter, pull it in bits, and put it in your butter, with a large fpoonful of lemon-pickle, the fame of walnut- catchup, a flice of an end of a lemon, one or two flices of horfe-radifh, as much beaten mace as will lie on a Sixpence, and feafon to your tafte with lalt and chyan pepper. Boil them one minute, and then take out the horfe-radifh and lemon, and ferve it in your fauce- boat. If lobfters cannot be procured, you may make life of oyfters or fhrimps the fame way 3 and, if you caq SAUCES. y .$6 can get no kind of fhell-fifh, you may then add two an¬ chovies cut fmall, a fpoonful of walnut liquor, and a lame onion ftuck with cloves. O Egg Sauce . T A K E tv/o eggs and boil them hard. Firft chop the whites, then the yolks, but neither of them very fine, and put them together. Then put them into a quarter of a pound of good melted butter, and ftir them well together. Shrimp Sauce . WASH half a pint of fhrimps very clean, and put them into a ftewpan, with a fpoonful of anchovy liquor, and a pound of butter melted thick. Boil it up for five minutes, and fqueeze in half a lemon. Tofs it up, and put it into your fauce-boat. Anchovy Sauce. PUT an anchovy into a pint of gravy, and a quar¬ ter of a pound of butter rolled in a little flour, and ftir all together till it boils. You may add, at your difcre- lion, a little juice of a lemon, catchup, red wine or walnut liquor. Plain butter melted thick, with a fpoon¬ ful of walnut pickle or catchup, is very good fauce j but you may put as many things into fauces as you fancy. Oyfier Sauce for Fijh, SCALD a pint of large oyfcers, and ftrain them through a fieve. Walk the oyfters very dean in cold water, and take off the beards. Put them in a ftewpan, and pour the liquor over them; but be careful to pour the liquor gently out of the veffel you have drained it into, and you will leave all the fediment at the bottom, which you muft be careful not to put into the ftewpan. Then add a large fpoonful of anchovy liquor, half a lemon, two blades of mace, and thicken it with butter rolled in flour. Then put in half a pound of butter, and boil it up till the butter be melted. Then take out the mace and lemon, and fqueeze the lemon juice into the fauce. Give it a boil, ftir ring it all the time, and then put it into a boat. *• 7 SOUPS. m » > ■" .' Celery Sauce. WASH and pare d. large bunch of celery very clean, cut it into thin bits, and boil it foftly in a little water till it be tender. Then add a little beaten mace, fome nutmeg, pepper, and fait, and thicken it with a large piece of butter rolled in flour. Then give it a boil, and it will be ready for the difh. Or you may make it thus with cream. Boil your celery as above, and add half a pint of cream, Ibine mace and nutmeg, and a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour. Then give them a gentle boil. This is a good fauce for either roafted or boiled fowls, turkies, partridges, or any other game. Mujhrocm Sauce. CLEAN and wafh well a quart of frefh mufli- rooms, cut them in two, and put them into a ftewpan, with a little fait, a blade of mace, and a little butter. Stew it gently for half an hour, and then add a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat very well. Keep ftirring it till it boil up, and then iqueeze in half a lemon. Put it over your fowls or turkies, or you may put it into bafons, or in a difh, with a piece of French bread firft buttered, then toafted brown, and juft dipped into boiling water. Put it in the difh, and mufhrooms over it. This is a very good fauce for white fowls of all forts. C H A P. XIII. SOUPS and BROTHS. Preliminary Hints and Obfervations. T AKE great care that your pots, faucepans, and covers, be very clean, and free from all land and greafe, and that they be properly tinned, fince, if this be not cautioufty attended to, your foups and broths will l 5 $ SOUPS. will not only acquire a bad tafte, but become pernicious ' to the healths and conftitutions of many. When you make any kind of foup, particularly vermicelli, portable or brown gravy loops, or any other foups that have herbs or roots in them, be fure to remember to lay your meat at the bottom of the pan, with a large piece of butter. Then cut the roots and herbs fmall, and having laid them over your meat, cover your pot or faucepan very clofe, and keep under it a How fire, which will draw all the virtues out of the vegetables, turn them to a good gravy, and give the foup a very different flavour from what it would have by a contrary condudh When your gravy be almoft dried up, replenifli it with water; and when it begins to boil, take off the fat, and follow the directions given you for the particular kind of foup or broth you may be making. Soft water will fuit your purpofe beft in making old peas foup ; but when you make foup of green peas, you mu ft make ufe of hard water, as it will the better preferve the co¬ lour of your peas. In the preparation of white foup, remember never to put in your cream till you take your foup off the fire, and the laft thing you do, muft be , the difhing of your foups. Gravy foup will have a fkin over it by ftanding; and from the fame caufe peas foup will often fettle, and look thin at the top. Laftly, let the ingredients of your foups and broths be fo properly proportioned, that they may not tafte of one thing more than another, but that the tafte be equal, and the whole of a fine and agreeable relifh. Mock-Turtle Soup. SCALD a calf’s head with the fkin on, and pull off the horny part, which muft be cut into pieces about two inches fquare. Walk and clean thefe well, dry them in a cloth, and put them into a ftewpan, with four quarts of broth made in the following manner. Take fix or feven pounds of beef, a calf’s foot or two, an onion, two carrots, a turnip, a fliank of ham, a head of celery, fome cloves and whole pepper, a bunch of fweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, a few truffles, and eight quarts of water. SOUPS, U 9 water. Stew thefe well till the broth be reduced to four quarts, then ftrain it, and put it in as above di rebled* Then add to it fome knotted marjoram, a little favory, thyme, and parfley, and chop all together. ' Then add fome cloves and mace pounded, a little chyan pepper, fome green onions, and a fhalot chopped ; a few mufh* rooms alfo chopped, and half a pint .of Madeira. Stew all thefe together gently, till they be reduced to two quarts. Then heat a little broth, mix fome flour fmooth in it, with the yolks of two eggs, and keep thefe ftir- ring over a gentle fire till near boiling. Then add this to the foup, ftirring it as it is pouring in, and let them all flew together for an hour or more. When you take it off the fire, fqueeze in the juice of half a lemon, and half an orange, and throw in boiled forcemeat balls. The quantity of foup may be increafed by adding more broth, with calves feet and ox palates cut in pieces and boiled tender. Soup a-la-relne . PUT three quarts of water to a knuckle of veal and three or four pounds of beef, with a little fait, and when it boils fkim it well. Then put in a leek, a little thyme, fome parfley, a head or two of celery, a parfnip, two large carrots, and fix large onions, and boil them all to¬ gether till the goodnefs be quite out of the meat. Then ftrain it through a hair fieve, and let it ftand about an hour. Then fkim it well, and clear it off gently from the fettlings into a clean pan. Boil half a pint of cream, pour it on the crumb of a halfpenny loaf, and let it foak well. Take half a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them as fine as poffible, putting in now and then a little cream to prevent them oiling. Then take the yolks of fix hard eggs, and the roll that was foaked in the cream, and beat them altogether quite fine. Make your broth hot, and pour it to your almonds, ftrain ir. through a fine hair fieve, rubbing it with a fpoon till all the goodnefs be gone quite through into a ftewpan. Then add more cream to make it white, and fet it over the fire. Keep ftirring it till it boils, fkim off the froth as it rifes, and foak the tops of French rolls in melted but- 5 ter 1 6 o SOUP S. ter in a ftewpan till they be crifp, but not brown. Then take them out, and lay them on a plate before the fire; and, about a quarter of an hour before you fend it to the table, take a little of the hot foup, and put it to the rolls in the bottom of the tureen. Put your foup on the fire, keep ftirring it till it nearly boils, and then pour it into your tureen, and ferve it up hot. Be careful to take off all the fat of the broth before you pour it to the almonds, or they will curdle and fpoil it. Soup and Bouillie. T O make the bouillie, roll five pounds of brifket of beef tight with a tape; put it into a ftewpot, with four pounds of the leg of mutton piece of beef, and about feven or eight quarts of water. Boil thefe up as quick as poffible, and fcum it very clean; add one large onion, fix or feven cloves, fome whole pepper, two or three carrots, a turnip or two, a leek, and two heads of celery. Stew thefe very gently, clofely covered, for fix or feven hours. About an hour before dinner, drain the foup through a piece of dimity that has been dipped in cold water; put the rough fide upwards. Have ready boiled carrots cut like wheels, turnips cut in balls, fpinach, a little chervil, and forrel, two heads of endive, and one or two of celery cut into pieces. Put thefe into a tureen, with a Dutch loaf or a French roll dried, after the crumb is taken out. Pour the foup to thefe boiling hot, and add a little fait and chyan. Take the tape from the bouillie, and ferve it in a fquare difh, with mafhed turnips and diced carrots in two little difhes. The tur¬ nips and carrots fhould be cut with an inftrument that may be bought for that purpofe. Beef Broth . PUT a leg of beef into a pot with a gallon of water, having firft wafhed the beef clean, and a *cked the bone in two or three parts. Skim it well, and put in two or three blades of mace, a little bundle of parfiey, and a lar2;e cruft of bread. Let it boil till the beef and •to the finews be quite tender, cut fome toafted bread into dice. / S O U P S. ' I 6 i dice, and put it into your tureen. Then lay in the meat, and pour in the foup. Strong Beef Broth to keep. TAKE part of a leg of beef, and the fcrag end of “ a neck of mutton. Break the bones in pieces, and put to it as much water as will cover it, and a little i^lt. When it boils, fkim it clean, and put into it a whole onion ftuck with cloves, a bunch of fweet herbs, fome pepper, and a nutmeg quartered. Let thefe boil till the mace be boiled in pieces, and the ftrength boiled out of it. Strain it out, and keep it for ufe. Beef Drink. TAKE a pound of lean beef, take off the fat and Hein, cut it into pieces, and put it into a gallon of water, with the under-cruft of a penny loaf, and a very little fait. Let it boil till it is reduced to two quarts, then ftrain it off, and it will be a very good drink. If it be intended for weak ftomachs, it muft not be made fo ftrong. Mutton Broth . CUT a neck of mutton of about fix pounds into two, and boil the fcrag in about a gallon of water. Skim it well, and put in a little bundle of fweet herbs, an onion, and a good cruft of bread. Having boiled this an hour, put in the other part of the mutton, a turnip or two, fome dried marigolds, a few chives chopped fine, and a little parfley chopped fmall. Put thefe in about a quarter of an hour before your broth be enough, and feafon it with fait. You may, if you choofe it, put in a quarter of a pound of barley or rice at firft. Some like it thickened with oatmeal, and fome with bread* and fome have it feafoned with mace, inftead of fweet herbs and onion ; but thefe are mere matters of fancy, on which the difference of palates muft determine. If you ufe turnips for fauce, do not boil them all in the pot with the meat, but fome of them in a (aiicepan by themfelves, otherwife the broth v/ill tafte too ftrohsr of therm M Vcrtahh SO U P s. I 1 62 Portable Soup. THIS is a very ufeful foup for travellers, arid muff be made thus. Cut into fmall pieces three large legs of veal, one of beef, and the lean part of half a ham. Put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large cauldron, and lay in the meat and bones, with four ounces of anchovies, and two ounces of mace ; cut off the green leaves of five or fix heads of celery, wafh them quite clean, and cut them fmall. Put in thefe, with three large carrots cut thin, and cover the cauldrori clofe. Put it over a moderate fire, and when you find the gravy begin to draw, keep taking it up till yoti have got it all out. Then cover the meat with water, let it on the fire again, and let it boil four hours flowly. Then flrain it through a hair fieve into a clean pan,, and let it boil three parts away. Then ftrain the gravy that you drew from the meat into the pan, and let it boil gently till it be of the confidence of glue, obferv- ing to keep fkimming off the flit clean as it rifes. Great care muff be taken, when it be nearly enough, that it does not burn. Seafon it to your tafte with chyan pep¬ per, and pour it on flat earthen difhes a quarter of an inch thick. Let it ftand till the next day, and then cut it out by round tins a little larger than a crown piece. Lay the cakes in difhes, and fet them in the fun to dry, and be careful to keep turning them often. When the cakes be dry, put them in a tin box, with writing paper between every cafe, and, keep them in a dry place. This foup fhould be made in frofty wea¬ ther. It is not only ufeful to travellers, but is likewife of great fervice in gentlemen’s families; for by pouring a pint of boiling water on one cake, and a little fait, it will make a good balon of broth; and, a little boiling water poured on it will make gravy for a turkey or fowls. It poffeffes one valuable quality, that of loflng none of its virtues by keeping. Gravy Soup. TAKE a fhin of beefy and put it into fix quarts of water, with a pint of peas, and fix onions. Set it over 5 the O U P s. i6j the fire, and let it boil gently till all the juice be out of the meat. Then ftrain it through a fieve, and add to it a quart of ftrong gravy to make it brown. Seafon it to your tafte with pepper and fait, and put in a little ce¬ lery and beet leaves, and boil it 'till all be tender. White Soup. PUT a knuckle of veal into fix quarts of water, with a large fowl, and a pound of lean bacon; half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few pepper-corns, a bundle of fweet herbs, tw r o or three onions, and three or four heads of celery cut in fiices. Stew them all to¬ gether, till the foup be as ftrong as you would have it* and then ftrain it through a hair fieve into a clean earthen pot. Having let it ftand all night, the next day take off the fcum, and pour it clear off into a toffing-pan. Put in half a pound of Jordan almonds beat fine, boil it a little, and run it through a lawn fieve. Then put in a pint of cream, and the yolk of an egg, and fend it up hot. Soup Maigre * MELT half a pound of butter in a ftewpan, and fhake it well. When it be done hiffmg, throw in fix middling-fized onions, and fhake the pan well for five minutes. Then put inTour or five heads of celery cut fmall, a handful or two of fpinach, a cabbage lettuce, and a bunch of parfiey, all cut fine. Shake thefe well in the pan for a quarter of an hour, .ftir in. forme flour, and pour into it two quarts of boiling water, with fome ftale crufts of bread, fojme beaten pepper, and jthfee or four blades of mace beat fine. Stir all together, and let it boil gently for half an hour. Then take it off, beat the yolks of two eggs, and ftir them in. Put in a fpoonful of vinegar, and pour it into the tureen. Or you may make it-in this manner. Take a quart of green Moratto peas, three quarts of foft water, four onions diced, floured, and fried in frelli butter, the coarfe {talks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, and a parfnip, and feafon the whole with pepper and mace to your tafte. Stew all thefe very gently together, till the pulp will force M2 tli rough I 164 SOUPS, through a fieve. Have ready a handful of beet leaf and root, Tome celery and fpinach, which mu ft be firft blanch¬ ed and {tewed tender in the {trained liquor. Have ready the third part of a pint of fpinach-juice, which mult be ftirred in with caution, when the foup be ready to bq ferved up, and not buffered to boh after it be put in, as that will curdle it. You may add a cruft of bread, fome tops of afparagus, and artichoke bottoms. Scotch Barley Broth. C H O P a leg of beef into pieces, and boil it in three gallons of water, with a piece of carrot, and a cruft of bread, till it be half boiled away. Then ftrain it off, and put it again into the pot, with half a pound of bar¬ ley, four or five heads of celery cut fmall and wafhed clean, a bundle of fweet herbs, a large onion, a little parfiey chopped fmall, and a few marigolds. Let this boil an hour, and then take a large fowl clean picked and wafhed, and put it into the pot. Boil it till the broth be quite good, then feafon it with fait to your tafte, take out the onion and fweet herbs, and fend it to table; with the fowl in the middle. You may omit the fowl, if you pleafe, as it will be very good without it. This broth is fometimes made with a fheep’s head in- ftead of a leg of beef, and is very good j but in this cafe you mu ft chop the head all to pieces. Six pounds of the thick flank in fix quarts of Water, make good broth. Put in the barley with the meat, firft fkim it well, and boil it an hour very fofdy. Then put in the above in¬ gredients, with turnips and carrots clean fcraped and pared, and cut in little pieces. Boil all together foftly till the broth be very good. Then feafon it with fait, and fend it to table with the beef in the middle, turnips and carrots round, and pour the broth over all. Scape an Bourgeois. TAKE twelve heads of endive, and four or five bunches of celery ; wafh them very dean, cut them into fmall bits, let them be well drained from the water, put them into a large pan, and pour upon them a gallon of boiling; SOUPS. 165 boiling water. Set on three quarts of beef gravy made for foup, in a large fancepan ; drain the herbs from the water very dry ; when the gravy boils, put them in. Cut off the crufts of two French rolls, break them, and put into the reft. When the herbs are tender, the foup is enough. A boiled fowl may be put into the, middle, but it is very good without. If a white foup be liked better, it lmift be veal gravy. Soupe Lorraine, TAKE a pound of almonds and blanch them, and beat them in a mortar, with a very little water to keep them from oiling. Put to them all the white part of a large roafted fowl, and the yolks of four poached eggs. Pound all together as fine as poflible, and take three quarts of ftrong veal broth, let it be very white, and all the fat fkimmed off. Pour it into a ftewpan, with the other ingredients, and mix them well together. Boil them foftly over a ftove or a clear fire, and mince the white part of another fowl very fine. Seafon it with pepper, fait, nutmeg, and a little beaten mace. Put in a bit of butter of the fize of an egg, and a fpoonful or two of the foup (trained, and fet it over the ftove to be quite hot. Cut two French rolls into thin dices, and fet them before the fire to crifp. Then take one of the hollow rolls which are made for oyfter loaves, and fill it with the mince 3 lay on the top as clofe as ooftible, and keep it hot. Strain the foup through a piece of dimity into a clean faucepan, and let it few till it be of the thicknefs of cream. Put the crifped bread in the difh or tureen, pour the foup over it, and place in the middle of it the roll with the minced meat. Chejlnut Scup. PICK half a hundred of cheftnuts, put them in an earthen pan, and put them in the oven for half an hour, or road them gently over a flaw fire 3 but take care they do not burn. Then peel them, and fet them to ftew in a quart of good beef, veal, or mutton broth, till they be quite tender. In the mean time, take a piece or M 3 flice 166 f SOUP s. nice of ham or bacon, a pound of veal, a pigeon beat to pieces, an onion, a bundle of fweet herbs, a piece of carrot, and a little pepper and mace. Lay the bacon at the bottom of a ftewpan, and lay the meat and ingre¬ dients on it. Set it over a flow fire till it begins to flick to the pan, and then put in a cruft of bread, and pour in two quarts of broth. Let it boil foftly till one third be wafted, then ftrain it off, and put in the-cheft- nuts. Seafon it with fait, and let it boil till it be well tafted. Then flew two pigeons in it, and a French roll fried crifp. Lay the roll in the middle of the difh, and the pigeons on each fide ^ pour in the foup, and fend it up hot. Partridge Soup. TAKE two old partridges and fkin them, cut them into fmall pieces, with three dices of ham, fome celery, and two or three onions diced. Fry them in butter till they be perfedly brown, but take great care not to burn them. Then put them into three quarts of water, with a few pepper-corns, and boil it dowly till about a pint or little more of it be confumed. Then ftrain it, put in fome dewed celery and fried bread, and ierve it up hot. Vermicelli Soup. PUT four ounces of butter intb a tofdng-pan, cut a knuckle of veal, and a fcrag of mutton into fmali pieces, about the dze of a walnut. Slice in the meat of a drank of ham, with two or three carrots, two parf- nips, two large onions, with a clove duck in at each end, three or four blades of mace, four or .five heads of celery walked clean, a bunch of fweet herbs, eight or ten morels, and an anchovy. Cover the pan clofe, and fet it over a dow fire, without any water, till the gravy be drawn out of the meat. Then pour out the gravy into a bafon, and let the meat brown in the fame pan, but take care not to let it burn. Then pour in four quarts of water, and let it boil gently till it be wafted to three pints. Then ftrain it, and put the other gravy to it; fet it on the fire, and add to it two ounces of ver¬ micelli. Then cut the niceft part of a head of celery, feafon SOUPS. f6 7 feafon it to your tafte, with fait and chyan pepper, and let it boil four minutes. If it be not of a good colour, put in a little browning, lay a French roll in the loup- difh, pour the foup in upon it, and lay forae of the vermicelli at top. Soup CreJJk. CUT a pound of lean ham into fmall bits, and put them at the bottom of a ftewpan. Then cut a French roll, and put over the ham. Take two dozen heads of -celery cut fmall, fix onions, two turnips, one carrot, cut and walked very clean, fix cloves, four blades of mace, and two handfuls of water-crelfes. Put them all into the ftewpan, with a pint of good broth. Cover them clofe, and fweat them gently for twenty minutes. Then fill it up with veal broth, and flew it four hours. Rub it through a fine fieve or cloth, and put it into your pan again. Seafon it with fait and a little chyan pep¬ per; then give it a fimmer up, and fend it to table hot, with fome French roll toafted hard in it. Boil a handful of creftes till tender, in water, and put it in over the bread. ' Hare Soup. THIS being a rich foup, is proper for a large en¬ tertainment, and may be placed at the bottom of the table, where two foups are required, and almond or onion foup be at the top. Hare foup is thus made: Cut a large old hare into fmall pieces, and put it in a mug, with three blades of mace, a little fait, two large onions, a red herring, fix morels, half a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water. Bake it three hours in a quick oven, and then ftrain it into a tofting-pan. Have ready boiled three ounces of French barley, or fago, in w r ater. Then put the liver of the hare two minutes in fcalding water, and rub it through a hair fieve with the back of a wooden fpoon. Put it into the foup with the barley or fago, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Set it over the fire, and keep ftirring it, but do not let it boil. If you difapprove of the liver, you may put in crifped bread fteeped in red wine. M 4 . GiHet SOUP s. 168 Glblet Soup . TO four pounds of gravy beef, put two pounds of ferag of mutton, and two pounds of ferag of veal. Put to this meat two gallons of water, and let it flew very foftly till it is a ftrong broth. Let it ftand to be cold, and then fkim off the fat. Take two. pair of giblets well-fcalded and cleaned, put them into the broth, and let them fimmer till they are very tender. Take out the giblets, and ftrain the foup through a cloth. Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into a flewpan, and make it of a light brown. Flave ready chopped fmall fome parfley. chives, a little pennyroyal, and a little fweet marjoram. Put the foup over a very flow fire; put in the giblets, fried butter, herbs, a little Madeira wine, fome fait, and fome chyan pepper. Let them fimmer till the herbs are tender, and then fend the foup to table with the giblets in it. Almond Soup. CHOP into fmall pieces a neck of veal, and the ferag end of a neck of mutton, and put them into a large loffing-pan. Cut in a turnip, with a blade or two of mace, and five quarts of water. Set it over the fire, and let it boil gently till it be reduced to two quarts. Then flirain it through a hair fieve into a clean pot, and put in fix ounces of almonds blanched and beat fine, half a pint of thick cream, and feafon it to your tafte with chyan pepper. Have ready three fmall French rolls made for the purpofe, of the fize of a fmall tea-cup ; for if they be too large, they will fuck up too much of the foup, and befides will not look well. Blanch a few Jordan almonds, cut them lengthways, and flick them round the edge of the rolls flantways. Then flick them all over the top of the rolls, and put them in the tu¬ reen ; and when you difh them up, pour the foup upon the rolls. Thefe rolls look like a hedge-hog, and hence the name of hedge-hog foup has been given to it by fome French cooks. Mac car cm SOUPS. 169 ^ Maccaroni Soup. MIX three quarts of ftrong broth, and one of gravy together. Take half a pound of fmall pipe-maccaroni, and boil it in three quarts of water, with a little butter in it, till it be tender. Then drain it through a fieve, and cut it in pieces of about two inches long. Put it into your foup, and boil it up for ten minutes. Then put the cruft of a French roll baked into the tureen, and pour the foup to it. Cow-heel Soup. TAKE fix pounds of mutton, five pounds of beef, and four of veal, the coarfeft pieces will do. Cut them crofsways, and put them into a pot, with an old fowl beaten to pieces, and the knuckle part of a ham. Let thefe ftew without any liquor over a very flow fire; but take care it does not burn to the pot. When it beo-'ins to flick to the bottom, ftir it about, and then put in fome good beef broth that has been well fcummed from the fat; then put in fome turnips, carrots, and celery cut. fmall, a bunch of fweet herbs, and a bay leaf; then add fome clear broth, and let it ftew about an hour. While this is doing, take a cow-heel, fplit it, and fet it on to boil in fome of the fame broth. When it is very tender, take it off, and fet on a ftewpan with fome crufts of bread, and fome more broth, and let them foak for eight or ten minutes. When the foup is ftewed enough, lay the crufts in a tureen, and the two halves of the cow-heel upon them. Then pour on the foup, which will be very rich and good. Ox-Cheek Soup. BREAK the bones of an ox-cheek, and wafti them till they be perfe&ly clean. Then lay them in warm water, and throw in a little fait, which will fetch out the (lime. Then take a large ftewpan, and put two ounces of butter at the bottom of it, and lay the fiefhy fide of the cheek-bone in it. Add to it half a pound of a fhank of ham cut in dices, and four heads of ce¬ lery, with the leaves pulled off, and the heads wafined clean. I SOUPS. r/o clean. Cut them into the loop, with three large onions, two carrots, a parfnip diced; a few beets cut fmall, and three blades of mace. Set it over a moderate fire for a quarter of an hour, which .will draw the virtue from the roots, and give to the gravy an agreeable ftrength, A very good gravy may be made by this method, with, roots and butter, adding only a little browning to give it a good colour. When the head has fimmered a quarter of an hour, put to it fix quarts of water, and let it flew till it be reduced to two quarts. If you would have it eat like foup, drain and take out the meat and the other ingredients, and put in the white part of a head of ce¬ lery cut in fmall pieces, with a little browning to make It of a fine colour. Take two ounces of vermicelli, give it a fcald in the foup, and put it into the tureen, with the top of a French roll in the middle of it. If you would have it eat like a flew, take up the face as -whole as poffibie, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut in fquare pieces, and a flice of bread toafled and cut in fmall dices. Put in a little chyan pepper, and drain the foup through a hair fieve upon the meat, bread, turnip, and carrot. Green Peas Soup . TAKE a peck of green peas, fhell and boil them in fpring water till they be foft, and then work them through a" hair fieve. Take the water your peas were boiled in, and put into it three dices of ham, a knuckle of veal, a few beet leaves fhred fmall, a turnip, two carrots, and add a little more water to the meat. Set it over the fare, and let it boil an hour and a half; then drain the gravy into a bowl, and mix it with the pulp. Then put in a little juice of fpinach, which mud be beat and fqueezed through a cloth, and put in as much as will make it look of a pretty colour. Then give it a gentle boil, to take off the tade of the fpinach, and flice in the whited part of a head of celery. Put in a lump of fugar of the fize of a walnut, take a dice of bread and cut it into little fquare pieces, cut a little bacon in the fame manner, and fry them of a kght brown in frefh butter. SOUPS. 171 blitter. Cut a large cabbage lettuce in Dices, fry it after jthe other, and put it into the tureen, with fried bread and bacon. Have ready boiled as for eating a pint of young peas, put them into the foup, and pour ail into your tureen. If you choofe, you may put in a little; chopped mint. White Peas Soup. P U T four or five pounds of lean beef into fix quarts of water, with a little fait, and as foon as it boils take off the fcum. Put in three quarts of old green peas, two heads of celery, a little thyme, three onions, and two carrots. Boil them till the meat be quite tender, then ftrain it through a hair fieve, and rub the pulp of the peas through the fieve. Split the blanched part of three cos-lettuces into four quarters, and cut them about an inch long, with a little mint cut fmall, Then put half a pound of butter in a ftewpan large enough to hold your foup, and put the lettuce and mint into the butter, with a leek diced very thin, and a pint of green peas. Stew them a quarter of an hour, and fhake them frequently. Then put in a little of the foup, and flew them a quarter of an hour longer. Then put in your foup, as much thick cream as will make it white, and keep Birring it till it boils. Fry a French roll a little crifp in butter, put it at the bottom of your tureen, and pour over it your foup. Common Peas Soup. PUT four quarts of foft water to one quart of fplit ’ peas, with a little lean bacon, or roaft-beef bones; wafh a head of celery, cut it, and put it in, with a turnip. Boil it till it be reduced to two quarts, and then work it through a cullender with a wooden fpoon. Mix a little flour and water, and boil it well in the foup. Slice in another head of celery, and feafon it to your tafte with fait and chyan pepper. Cut a Dice of bread into fmall dice, and fry them of a light brown. Put them into your dilb, and pour your foup over them, 'Peas SOUPS. 172 Peas Soup for Winter. CUT into fmall pieces about four pounds of lean beef, and about a pound of lean bacon, or pickled pork. Put them into two gallons of water, and fkim it well when it boils. Then put in fix onions, a carrot, two turnips, four heads of celery cut fmall, twelve corns of allfpice, and a quart of fplit peas. Let them boil gently for three hours, then ftrain them through a fieve, and rub the peas through the fieve. Then put your foup into a clean pot, and put in fome dried mint rubbed to a fine powder. Cut the white off four heads of ce¬ lery, and cut two turnips into the fhape of dice, and boil them in a quart of water for a quarter of an hour. Then ftrain them off, and put them into your foup. Take about a dozen fmall rafhers of fried bacon, put them into your foup, and feafon it to your tafte with pepper and fait. Boil the whole a quarter of an hour longer, put fried bread into the foup-difh or tureen, and pour your foup over it. Or you may make this foup in the following manner: When you boil a leg of pork, or a good piece of beef, lave the liquor. Take off the fat as loon as the liquor be cold, and boil a leg of mut¬ ton the next day. Save that liquor alfo, and when it be cold, in like manner, take off the fat. Set it on the lire, with two quarts of peas, and let them boil till they be tender. Then put in the pork or beef liquor, with the ingredients as above, and let it boil till it be as thick as you wifh it, allowing for another boiling. Then ftrain it off, and add the ingredients as above directed for the laft boiling. Soup de Sante. TAKE two quarts of broth, and two quarts of gravy made as follows: Take fix good rafhers of lean ham, and put them on the bottom of a ftewpan. Then put over them three pounds of lean beef, and over the beef three pounds of lean veal, fix onions cut in dices, two carrots and two turnips diced, two heads of celery, a bundle of fweet herbs, fix cloves, and two blades of mace. Put a little water at the bottom, and draw it very SOUPS. 17 3 r very gently till it (ticks. Then put in a gallon of water, .and let it (tew for two hours ; feafon it with fait to your tafte, and then (train it. Have ready a carrot cut in fmall dices of two inches long, 'and about as thick as a goofe quill; alfo a turnip, two heads of leeks, the fame of celery, and the fame of endive, cut acrofs ; two cab¬ bage lettuces cut acrofs, and a very little forrel and cher¬ vil. Put them into a (tewpan, and fweat them for a quarter of an hour. Then put them into your foup, boil them up gently for ten minutes, put in a cruft of French roll into your tureen, and pour your foup over it. Soup de Sant'e the Englifh Way . T O ten or twelve pounds of gravy beef add a knuckle of veal, and the knuckle part of a leg of mutton, a couple of fowls, or two old cocks will do as well, and a gallon of water. Let thefe ftew very foftly till reduced to one half ; but mind to let them on to ftew the night before. Add to them fome crufts of bread, put in a bunch of fwect herbs, fome celery, forrel, chervil, and purdain, if agreeable; or any of them may be left out. When it is ftrong and good, drain it. Send it to table, with either a road; or boiled fowl, or a piece of road: or boiled neck of veal, in the middle. Some fried bread on a plate. Onion Soup . TAKE eight or ten large Spanidi onions, and boil them in milk and water till they be quite foft, chang¬ ing your milk and water three times while your onions be boiling. When they be quite fott, rub them through a hair deve. Cut an old cock in pieces, and with a blade of mace, boil it for gravy. Then drain it, and having poured it on the pulp of the onions, boil it gently, with the crumb of an old penny loaf, grated into half a pint of cream, and feafon it to your tafte with fait and chyan pepper. When you ferve it up, grate a cruft of brown bread round the edge of the difh. Some dewed fpinach, or a few heads of afparagus, give it a very pleafing flavour. White *74 SOUP Si White Onion Soup. BOIL thirty large onions in five quarts of water with a knuckle of veal, a little whole pepper, and a blade or two of mace. Take your onions up as foon as they be quite fo.ft, rub them through a hair fieve* and work into them half a pound of butter, with fome flour. When the meat be boiled off the bones, ftrain the liquor to the onions, and boil it gently for half an hour, and then ferve it up, with a large cupful of cream, and a little fait. Be careful not to buffer it to burn when you put in the flour and butter, which may be prevented by flirting it well. Hop-top Soup. IN the month of April, take a large quantity of hop-tops, when they are in their greatefl perfection* Tie them in bunches of twenty or thirty in each; lay them in fpring water for an hour or two, drain them well from the water, and put them to fome thin peafe foup. Boil them well, and add three fpoonfuls of the juice of onions, fome pepper and fait. Let them boil fome time longer, and when done, foak fome crufts of bread in the broth, and lay them in the tureen. Then pour in the foup. This is a plain foup, but very good. Ajparagus Soup. CUT four or five pounds of beef to pieces; fet it over a fire, with an onion or two, a few cloves, and fome whole black pepper, a calf’s foot or two, a head or two of celery, and a very little bit of butter. Let it draw at a diftance from the fire; put in a quart of warm beer, three quarts of warm beef broth, or water. Let thefe flew till enough ; ftrain it, take off the fat very'clean, put in fome afparagus heads cut fmall, (palates may be added, boiled very tender) and a toafted French roll, the crumb taken out. Plum Porridge for Chrifmas. PUT a leg and fhin of beef into eight gallons of water, and boil them till they be very tender. When the SOUPS* ns the broth be ftrong, drain it out. Then wipe the pot, and put in the broth again. Slice fix penny loaves thin, cut off the tops and bottoms, put feme of the liquor to them, and cover them up, and let them ftanc! for a quarter of an hour; then boil and (train it, and put it into your pot. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, then put in fxve pounds of currants clean wafhed and picked. Let them boil a little, and then put in five pounds of ftoned raifins of the fun, and two pounds of prunes. Let thefe boil till they (well, and then put in three quarters of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and two nutmegs, all beat fine. Before you put thefe into the pot, mix them with a little cold liquor, and do not put them in but a little while before you take off the pot. When you take off the pot, put in three pounds of fugar, a little fait, a quart of fack, a quart of claret, and the juice of two or three lemons. You may thicken with fago inllead of bread, if you pleafe. Pour your porridge into earthen pans, and keep it for ufe. Hodge-Podge . CUT into little pieces a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a pound of ferag of mutton. Set it on the fire with two quarts of water, an ounce of barley, an onion, a fmall bundle of fweet herbs, three or four heads of celery wafhed clean and cut fmall, a little mace, two or three cloves, and fome whole pepper, tied all in a rnuflin rag; and put to the meat three turnips pared and cut in two, a large carrot (craped clean and cut in fix pieces, and-a little lettuce cut fmall. Put all into the pot, and cover it clofe. Let it ftew gently five or fix hours very gently over a flow fire; then take out the fpice, fweet herbs, and onion, pour all into a foup-difh, feafon it with fait, and fend it to table. Half a pint of green peas, when they be in feafon, will be a pretty addi¬ tion to it. If you let your hodge-podge boil too fair, it will wake it too much; and indeed, fo that it does but fimmer, it is no matter how (lowly it proceeds. * Milk SOUPS. 176 Milk Soup. TAKE two quarts of new milk, two flicks of cin¬ namon, a couple of bay-leaves, a very little bafket-falt, and a very little fugar. Then blanch half a pound of fweet almonds, while the former matters are heating, and beat them up to a pafte in a marble mortar. Mix fome milk with them by little and little, anc^ while they be heating, grate fome lemon-peel with the almonds, and a little of the juice. Then drain it through a coarfe fieve, and mix all together, and let it boil up. Cut fome dices of French bread, and dry them before the fire. Soak them a little in the milk, lay them at the bottom of the tureen, and then pour in the foup. Milk Soup the Dutch Way. BOIL a quart of milk with cinnamon and moift fugar. Put fippets into the difh, pour the milk over it, and fet .it over a charcoal fire to dimmer till the bread be foft. Take the yolks of two eggs, beat them up, mix it with a little of the milk, and throw it in. Mix all together, and fend it up to table. Rice Soup. PUT a pound of rice, and a little cinnamon, into two quarts of water. Cover it clofe, and let it dimmer very foftly till the rice be quite tender. Take out the cinnamon, then fweeten it to your palate, grate half a nutmeg, and let it Hand till it be cold. Then beat up the yolks of three eggs, with half a pint of white wine, mix them very well, and dir them into the rice. Set them on a fiow fire, and keep ftirring all the time for fear of curdling. When it be of a good thicknefs, and boils, take it up. Keep ftirring it till you put it into your difh. Dump Soup. PARE a bunch of turnips, fave three or four out, and put the reft into a gallon of water, with half an o&nce of whole pepper, an onion ftuck with cloves, a blade of mace, half a nutmeg bruifed, a bundle of fweet herbs, and a large cruft of bread. Let thefe boil an 4 hour. SOUPS. 177 * hour pretty faft, then {train it through a fieve, fqueezing the turnips through. Wa(h and cut a bunch of celery very fmall, fet it on in tne liquor on the fire, cover it clofe, and let it {tew. In the mean time, cut the turnips you faved into dice, and two or three fmall car¬ rots clean fcraped, and cut into little pieces. Put half thefe turnips and carrots into the pot with the celery, and the other half try brown in frefh butter; you muft flour them firft; then two or three onions peeled, cut into thin flices, and fried brown. Then put them all into the foup, with an ounce of vermicelli. Let your foup boil foftly till the celery be quite tender, and your foup good. Seafon it with fait to your palate. Egg Soup. HAVING beaten the yolks of two eggs in a difh, with a piece of butter as big as a hen’s egg, take a tea¬ kettle of boiling water in one hand, and a fpoon in the other. Pour in about a quart by degrees, then keep ftirring it all the time well till the eggs are well mixed, and the butter melted. Then pour it into a faucepan, and keep ftirring it all the time till it begin to fimmer. Take it off the fire, and pour it between two veftels, out of one into another, till it be quite fmooth, and has a great froth. Set it on the fire again, keep ftirring it till it be quite hot, then pour it into your foup-difh, and fend it hot to table. Craw-Fijh Soup. TAKE half aLndred of frefh craw-fifh, boil them, and pick out all the meat, which you muft carefully fave. Take a frefh lobfter, and pick out all the meat, which you muft likewife fave. Pound the fhells of the lobfter and craw-fifh fine in a marble mortar, and boil them in four quarts of water, with four pounds of mutton, a pint of green fplit peas nicely picked and wafhed, a large turnip, carrot, onion, an anchovy, mace, cloves, a little thyme, pepper, and lalt. Stew them on a flow fire, till all the goodnefs be out of the mutton and the fhells, and ftrain it through a fieve. Then put N A in SOUPS. 178 in the tails of your craw-fi(h and the lobfter meat, but in very fmall pieces, with the red coral of the lobfter, if it has any. Boil it half an hour, and juft before you ferve it up, put to it a little butter melted thick and fmooth. Stir it round feveral times, take care not to make it too ftrong of the fpice, and fend it up hot. Fijh Gravy. TAKE two or three eels, or any other ftfh you have, fkin or fcale them, gut and wafh them from grit, and cut them into little pieces. Put them into a fauce- pan, and cover them with water; put in a cruft of bread toafted brown, a blade or two of mace, a very little piece of lemon-peel, a few fweet herbs, and fome whole pepper. Let it boil till it be rich and good, and then have ready a piece of butter, proportioned in fize to the quantity of your gravy; if it be a pint, your butter may be of the fize of a walnut. Melt it in the faucepan, then (hake in a little flour, and tofs it about till it be brown. Then (train the gravy to it, and let it boil a few minutes. Oyjler Soup. TAKE what quantity may be wanted of fifh-ftock, which muft be made in this manner : Take a pound of (kate, four or five flounders, and two eels; cut them into pieces, put to them as much water as will cover them, and feafon with mace, on onion (tuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parfley-roots diced, fome pepper and fait, and a bunch of lweet herbs. Cover them down clofe, and let them fimmer an hour and a half, and then drain it off for ufe. Being thus provided with your fifh-ftock, take what quantity of it you want. Then take two quarts of oyfters bearded, and beat them in a mortar, with the yolks of ten eggs boiled hard. Put them to the fifh-ftock, and fet it over the fire. Seafon it with pepper, fait, and grated nutmeg, and when it boils, put in the eggs and oyfters. Let it boil till it be of a good thicknefs, and like a fine cream. 4 Eel SOUP s. 179 Eel Soup. TAKE a pound of eels, which will make a pint of good foup, or any greater weight of eels, in proportion to the quantity of foup you intend to make. To every pound of eels put a quart of water, a cruft of bread, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a bundle of fweet herbs. Cover them clofe, and let them boil till half the liquor be wafted. Then ftrain it, and toaft fome bread ; cut it fmall, lay the bread into your difh, and pour in the foup: if you have a ftew-hole, fet the dilh over it for a minute, and fend it to table. If you find your foup not rich enough, you may let it boil till it be as ftrong as you would have it. You may add apiece of carrot to brown it. MuJJel Soup. W A S FI an hundred of muffels very clean, put them into a ftew-pan, and cover them clofe. Let them ftew till they open, then pick them out of the fhells, ftrain the liquor through a fine lawn fieve to your muffels, and pick out the beard or crab, if any. Take a dozen •craw-fifh, beat them to mafia', with a dozen of almonds blanched, and beat fine. Then take a fmall parfnip and a carrot fcraped, and cut into thin dices, and fry them brown with a little butter. Then take two pounds of any frefia fifh, and boil them in a gallon of water, with a bundle of fweet herbs, a large onion ftiick with cloves, whole black and white pepper, a little parfley, a little piece of horfe-radifii, and fait the muffel liquor, the craw-fifh, and almonds. Let them boil till half be wafted, and then ftrain them through a fieve. Put the . foup into a faucepan, put in twenty of the muffels, a few mufhrooms and truffles cut fmall, and a leek waftled and cut very fmall. Take two French rolls, take out the crumb, fry it brown, cut it into little pieces, and put it into the foup. Boil it all together for a quarter of an hour, with the fried carrot and parfnip. In the mean time, take the cruft of the rolls filed crifp; take half a hundred of the muffels, a quarter of a pound of butter, a fpoonful of Water, fhake in a,little four, and N 2 fet SOUPS. 1S0 fet them on the fire, keeping the faucepan fhaking ali the time till the butter be melted. Seafon it with pepper and fait, beat the yolks of three eggs, put them in, ftir them all the time for fear of curdling, and grate in a little nutmeg. When it be thick and fine, fill the rolls, pour the foup into the difh, put in the rolls, and lay the reft of the muffels round the rim of the difh. ✓ Skate or Thornback Soup. SKIN and boil two pounds of fkate or thornback in fix quarts of Water. When it be enough, take it up, pick off the flefh, and lay it by. Put in the bones again, and about two pounds of any frefh filh, a very little piece of lemon-peel, a bundle of fweet herbs, whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a little piece of horfe-radifh, the cruft of a penny-loaf, and a little parfley. Cover it clofe, and let it boil till there be about two quarts. Then ftrain it off, and add an ounce of vermicelli. Set it on the fire, and let it boil gently. In the mean time, take a French roll, cut a little hole, in the top, take out the crumb, and fry the cruft brown in butter. Take the flefh of the fifh you laid by, cut it into little pieces, and put it into a faucepan, with two or three fpoonfuis of the foup. Shake in a little flour, put in a piece of butter, and a little pepper and fait. Shake them together in the faucepan over the fire till it be quite thick, and then fill the roll with it. Pour your foup into your difh, let the roll fwim in the middle, and fend it to table. CHAP. VEGETABLES. iSi % CHAP. XIV, ROOTS and VEGETABLES. Preliminary Hints and Observations . B E very careful that your greens be nicely picked and wafhed, and when fo done, always lay them in a clean pan, for fear of fand or dull, which are apt to hang round wooden veffels. Boil all your greens in a well-tinned copper faucepan by themielves, and be fure to let them have plenty of water. Boil no kind of meat with them, as that will difcolour them ; and ufe no iron pans, fuch being very improper for the purpofe, but let'them be either copper or brafs well tinned, or filver. Numbers of cooks fpoil their garden Huffs by boiling them too much. All kinds of vegetables fhould have a little crifpnels; for if you boil them too much, you will deprive them of both their fweetnefs and beauty* Cabbages . ALL forts of cabbages and young fprouts mull have plenty of water allowed them to boil in, and when the ftalks become tender, or fall to the bottom, it is a proof of their being Efficiently boiled. T hen take them off before they lofe their colour ; but remember always to throw fome fait into your water before you put in your greens. You muff fend your young fprouts to table whole as they come out of the pot; but many people think cabbage is beft chopped, and put into a faucepan, with a piece of butter, ftirring it about for five or fix minutes, till the butter be all melted, then empty it on a difh, and ferve it up. Par nips. TURNIPS may be boiled in the pot with the meat, and indeed eat beft when fo done. When they be enough, take them out, put them into- a pan, mark N 3 them i 82 VEGETABLES. them with butter and a little fait, and in that ftate fend them to table. Another method of boiling them is as follows : Pare your turnips, and cut them into little fquare pieces of the fize of dice, or as big as the top of your finger. Then put them into a faucepan, and juft cover them over with water. As foon as they be enough, take them off the fire, and throw them into a fieve to drain. Put them into a faucepan, with a good piece of butter, ftir them over the fire for a few minutes, and they will then be fit for the table. Pettitoes. THOUGH greens require plenty of water to be boiled in, potatoes muft have only a quantity fufticient to keep the faucepan from burning. Keep them clofe covered, and as foon as the fkins begin to crack, they will be enough. Having drained out all the water, let them ftand covered for a minute or two. Then peel them, lay them in a plate, and pour fome melted butter over them. A very good method of doing them is thus: When they be peeled, lay them on a gridiron till they be of a fine brown, and then fend them to table. Another method is, put them into a faucepan, with fome good beef dripping, then cover them clofe, and fre¬ quently fhake the faucepan to prevent their burning. As foon as they become of a fine brown, and are crifp, take them up in a plate, then put them into another for fear of the fat, put butter into a boat, and ferve them up. Scolloped Potatoes. HAVING boiled your potatoes, beat them fine in a bowl, with fome cream, a large piece of butter, and a little fait. Put them into fcollop fhells, make them fmooth on the top, fcore them with a knife, and lay- thin dices of butter on the top of them. Then put them into a Dutch oven to brown before the fire. This is a pretty little difh for a light fupper. HAVING picked your fpinach very clean, and walhed it in five or Ex waters, put it into a faucepan that will VEGETABLES. 183 will juft hold it, throw a little fait over it, and cover it clofe. Put in no water, but take care to fhake the pan often. Put your faucepan on a clear and quick fire, and as foon as you find your greens are fhrunk and fallen to the bottom, and the liquor that comes out of them boils up, it is a proof your fpinach is enough. Throw them into a clean fieve to drain, and juft give them a gentle fqueeze. Lay them in a plate, and fend them up with butter in a boat, but never pour any over them. You may drefs your fpinach, if you choofe, in this manner. Pick and wafh your fpinach well, and put it into a ftew-pan, with a little fait. Cover it clofe, and let it ftew till it be tender. Then throw it into a fieve, drain out all the liquor, and chop it fmall, as much in quantity as a French roll. Add to it half a pint of cream, and feafon it with pepper, fait, and grated nut¬ meg. Put in a quarter of a pound of butter, and let it ftew over the fire for a quarter of an hour, ftirring it frequently. Cut a French roll into long pieces, about as thick as your finger, and fry them. Poach fix eggs, lay them round on the fpinach, and flick the pieces of roll in and about the eggs. This will ferve as a fide- difh at a fecond courfe, or for a fupper. Should your fire be fo fully employed, that you have not room to boil your fpinach, you may drefs it in the following manner: Get a tin box, or any other thing that fhuts very clofe, and put into it your fpinach. Cover it fo clofe that no water can get in, and put it into any pot of liquor you be boiling. It will take about an hour, if the pot or copper boils. In the fame manner you may drefs peas. Spinach and Eggs. PUT your fpinach into a iaucepao, having firft walked it very clean in four or five waters. Cover it clofe, and fhake it about often. When it be juft tender, and while it be green, throw it into a fieve to drain, and lay it in your difh. In the mean time have a ftew-pan of water boiling, and break as many eggs into cups as you would poach. When the water boils, put in the N 4 eggs. VEGETABLES. 184 eggs, and when done, take them out with an egg flice, and lay them on the fpinach. Send it up with melted butter in a cup, and garnifh your difh with an orange cut into quarters. Carrots. SCRAPE your carrots very clean, put them into the pot, and when they be enough, take them out, and rub them in a clean cloth. Then dice them into a plate, and pour fome melted butter over them. If they be young fpring carrots, half an hour will boil them Efficiently ; if they be large, they will require an hour; and old Sandw'ich carrots will take two hours boiling. French Beans. STRING your beans, cut them in two, and then acrofs ; but if you wifh to do them in a nice manner, cut them into four, and then acrofs, fo that each bean will then be in eight pieces. Put them into lalt and water, and when the pan boils, put th&m in with a little fait. They will be foon done, which may be known by their becoming tender; but take care that you do not fuffer them to lofe their fine green colour. Lay them in a plate, and fend them up with butter in a boat. French Beans ragcoed. STRING a quarter of a peck of French beans, but do not fplit them. Cut them acrofs in three parts, and lay them in fait and water. Then take them out, and dry them in a coarfe cloth; then fry them brown, pour out all the fat, and put in a quarter of a pint of hot water. Stir it into the pan by degrees, and let it boil. Then take a quarter of a pound of frefh butter rolled in a little flour, two fpoonfuls of catchup, a fpoonful of mufhroom pickle, four fpoonfuls of white wine, an onion (luck with fix cloves, two or three blades of mace beaten, half a nutmeg grated, and a little pepper and fait. Stir it all together for a few minutes, and then throw in the beans. Shake the pan for a minute or two, take out the onions, and pour all into your VEGETABLES. 185 your difh. This is a pretty fide difh, which you may garnifh with what you fancy, particularly pickles. French Beans ragoced with a Force. HAVING made a ragoo of your beans as above directed, take two large carrots, fcrape them, and then boil them tender. Then mafh them in a pan, and feafon them with pepper and fait. Mix them with a little piece of butter, and two eggs. Make it into what fhape you pleafe, and bake it a quarter of an hour in a quick oven; but a tin oven is. the befr. Lay it in the middle of the difh, and the ragoo round it. Cauliflowers. CUT off all the green part from your cauliflowers, then cut the flowers into four, and lay them into water for an hour. Then have fome milk and water boiling, put in the cauliflowers, and be fure to fkim the fauce- pan well. When the ftalks be tender, take up the flowers carefully, and put them into a cullender to drain. Then put a lpoonful of water into a clean ftew-pan, with a little duff of flour, about a quarter of a pound of but¬ ter, and fliake it round till it be all finely melted, with a little pepper and fait. Then take half the cauliflower, and cut it as you would for pickling. Lay it into the flew pan, turn it, and lhake, the pan round. Ten minutes will do it. Lay the ftewed in the middle of your plate, and the boiled round it, and pour over it the butter you did it in. Or you may drefs your cauli¬ flowers in this manner: Cut the ftalks off, leave a little green on, and boil them in fpring water and fait, for about fifteen minutes. Take them out and drain them, and fend them up whole, with fome melted butter in a boat. Afparagus. HAVING fcraped all the ftalks very carefully till they look white, cut all the ftalks even alike, throw them into water, and have ready a ftew-pan boiling. Put in fome fait, and tie the afparagus in little bunches. Let the water keep boiling, and when they be a little tender take 1 35 VEGETABLES. take them up. If you boil them too much, they will lole both their colour and tafte. Cut the round off a fmall loaf, about half an inch thick, and toaft it brown 'on both fides. Then dip it into the liquor the afparagus was boiled in, and lay it in your difh. Pour a little butter over your toaft, then lay your afparagus on the toaft all round your dilh, with the white tops outwards. Send up your butter in a bafon, and do not pour it over your afparagus, as that will make them greafy to the fingers. Afparagus forced in French Rolls. CUT a piece out of the cruft of the tops of three French rolls, and take out all their crumb; but be careful that the crufts fit again in the places from whence they were taken. Fry the rolls brown in frefh butter. Then take a pint of cream, the yolks of fix eggs beat fine, and a little fait and nutmeg. Stir them well toge¬ ther over a flow fire till it begin to be thick. Have ready an hundred of fmall grafs boiled, and fave tops enough to ftick the rolls with. Cut the reft of the tops fmall, put them into the cream, and fill the loaves with them. Before you fry the rolls, make holes thick in the top-crufts, to ftick the grafs in. Then lay on the pieces of cruft, and ftick the grafs in, that it may look as if it were growing. At a fecond courie, this makes a pretty fide difh. * Parfnips. PARSNIPS muft be boiled in plenty of water, and when they become foft, which you may know by running a fork into them, take them up, and carefully lcrape all the dirt off them. Then ferape them all fine with a knife, throwing away all the fticky part, and fend them up plain in a difh with melted butter. Broccoli. CAREFULLY ftrip off all the little branches till you come to the top one, and then with a knife peel off all the hard outfide fkin that is on the ftaiks and little branches, and then throw them into w r ater. Have ready a ftew- VEGETABLES. 187 a ftew-pan of water, throw in a little fait, and when it boils put in your broccoli. When the ftalks be tender, it will be enough. Put a piece of toafted bread, foaked in the water the broccoli was boiled in, at the bottom of your difh, and put your broccoli on the top of it, the lame way as you treated afparagus, and fend it up to table with butter in a boat. Windjor Beans. THESE mull be boiled in plenty of water, with a good quantity of fait in it. Boil and chop fome parfley, put it into good melted butter, and ferve them up with boiled bacon, and the butter and parfley in a boat. Green Peas. YOU muft not fhell your peas till juft before you want them. Put them into boiling water, with a little fait, and a lump of loaf fugar, and when they begin to dent in the middle, they will be enough. Strain them into a fieve, put a good lump of butter into your difh, and ftir them till the butter be melted. Boil a fprig of mint by itfelf, chop it fine, and lay it round the edge of your difh in lumps. Peas FranCjOiJe. SHELL a quart of peas, cut a large Spanifh onion fmall, and two cabbage or Silefia lettuces. Put to them half a pint of water, with a little fait, and a little pepper, mace, and nutmeg, all beaten. Cover them clofe, and let them flew a quarter of an hour. Then put in a quarter* of a pound of frefh butter rolled in a little flour, a fpoonful of catchup, and a piece of burnt butter of the fize of a nutmeg. Cover them clofe, and let it fimmer a quarter of an hour, obferving frequently to fhake the pan. If you choofe to make a variation, having flewed the ingredients as above, take a fmall cabbage lettuce, and half boil it. Then drain it, cut the ftalks at the bottom, fo that it will (land firm in the difh, and with a knife very carefully cut out-the middle, leaving the outfide leaves whole. Put what you cut out into a faucepan, having firft chopped it, and x S 3 VEGETABLES. and put in a piece of butter, a little pepper, fait, and nutmeg, the yolk of a large egg chopped, and a few crumbs of bread. Mix all together, and when it be hot, fill your cabbage. Put fome butter into a ftew- pan, tie your cabbage, and fiy it till you think it be enough. Then take it up, untie it, and firft pour the ingredients of peas into your difh, and let the forced cabbage in the middle. Plave ready four artichoke bottoms fried, and cut in two, and laid round the difh. This will do for a top difh. Endive ragooed. LAY three heads of fine white endive in fait and water for two or three hours. Then take a hundred of afparagus, and cut off the green heads; then chop the reft fmall, as far as it be tender, and lay it in fait and water. Take a bunch of celery, wafh it and ferape it clean, and cut it in pieces about three inches long. Put it into a faucepan, with a pint of water, three or four blades of mace, and fome white pepper tied in a rag. Let it ftew till it be quite tender, then put in the afparagus, fhake the faucepan, and let it fimmer till the grafsbe enough. Take the endive out of the water, drain it, and leave one large head whole. Take the other leaf by leaf, put it into the ftew-pan, and put to it a pint of white wine. Cover the pan clofe, and let it boil till the endive be juft enough. Then put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, cover the pan clofe, and keep it fhaking. When the endive be enough, take it up, and lay the whole head in the middle; then with a fpoon take out the celery and grafs, and lay them round it, and the other part of the endive over that. Then pour the liquor out of the faucepan into the ftew-pan, ftir it together, and feafon it with fait. Have ready the yolks of two eggs, beat up with a quarter of a pint of cream, and half a nut¬ meg grated in. Mix this with the fauce, keep it ftirring one way till it be thick, and then pour it over your ragoo. Force- PUDDINGS. 189 Force-meagre Callage. BOIL a white-heart cabbage, as big as the bottom of a plate, five minutes in water. Then drain it, cut the ftalk flat to Hand in the difh, and carefully open the leaves, and take out the infide, leaving the outfide leaves whole. Chop what you take out very fine, and take the flefli of two or three flounders or plaice, clean from the bone. Chop it with the cabbage, the yolks and whites of four eggs boiled hard, and a handful of pickled par- fiey. Beat all together in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Then mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and a few crumbs of bread. Fill the cab¬ bage, and tie it together; put it into a deep Aewpan or faucepan, and put to it half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in a little flour, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, an onion ftuck with fix cloves, Lome whole pepper and mace tied in a muflin rag, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a fpoonful of catchup, and a few pickled mufhrooms. Cover it clofe, and let it fimmer an hour; but if you find it not fufflciently done in that time, let it fimmer longer. When it be done, take out the onion and fpice, lay it in your diUi, untie it, and put the fauce over it. CHAP. XV. PUDDINGS. Preliminary Hints and Olferuaticns . W HEN you boil a pudding, take particular care that your cloth be clean, and remember to dip it in boiling water; flour it well, and give it a (hake, before you put your pudding into it. If it be a bread¬ pudding, tie it loqfe, but clofe if it be a batter-pud¬ ding. 1 9 o PUDDIN G'S. ding. If you boil it in a bafon, butter it, and boil it in plenty of water. Turn it often, and do not cover the pan ; and when it be enough, take it up in the bafon, and let it Hand a few minutes to cool. Then untie the firing, clap the cloth round the bafon, lay your difh over it, and turn the pudding out, then take off the bafon and cloth very carefully, light puddings being apt to break. When you make a batter pudding, firft mix the flour well with a little, milk, then put in the ingre¬ dients by degrees, and it will be fmooth and not lumpy; but for a plain batter pudding, the beft way is to ftrain it through a coarfe hair fieve, that it may neither have lumps, nor the treadles oPthe eggs; and for all other puddings, ftrain the eggs when you beat them. Bread and cuftard puddings for baking require time and a mo¬ derate oven to raife them; batter and rice puddings a quick oven, and always remember to butter the pan or difh before you put your pudding into it. Steak Pudding. H AVI N'G made a good cruft, with flour and fuet Hired fine, and mixed it up with cold water, feafon it with a little fait, and make a pretty ftiff cruft, in the proportion of two pounds of fuet to a quarter of a peck of flour. Take either beef or mutton fteaks, well fea¬ fon them with pepper and fait, and make it up as you would an apple pudding tie it in a cloth, and put it in when the water boils. If it be a fmall pudding, it will be boiled in three hours, but a large one will take five hours. Calf's-Foot Pudding. MINCE very fine a pound of calves feet, firft taking out the fat and brown. Then take a pound and a half of fuet, pick off ail the fkin, and ftired it fmall. Take fix eggs, all the yolks, and but half the whites, and beat them well. Then take the crumb of a half¬ penny roll grated, a pound of currants clean picked and waftied, and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as will moiften it .with the eggs, a handful of flour, a little fait, nutmeg, and fuga.r, to feafon it to your tafte. Boil it nine PUDDINGS. 4 191 nine hours. Then take it up, lay it in your difh, and pour melted butter over it. You may put white wine and fugar into the butter, if you pleafe, and it will be a very great addition. Torkjhire Pudding. THIS pudding is ufually baked under meat, and is thus made. Beat four large fpoonfuls of fine flour with four eggs, and a little fait, for fifteen minutes. Then put to them three pints of milk, and mix them well to¬ gether. Then butter a dripping-pan, and fet it under beef, mutton, or a loin of veal, when roafting. When it be brown, cut it into fquare pieces, and turn it over; and when the under fide be browned alfo, fend it to table on a difh. Hunting Pudding. MIX eight eggs beat up fine wilh a pint of good cream, and a pound of flour. Beat them well together, and put to them a pound of beef fuet finely chopped, a pound of currants well cleaned, half a pound of jar raifins ftoned and chopped fmall, two ounces of candied orange cut fmall, the fame of candied citron, a quarter of a pound of powdered fugar, and* a large nutmeg grated. Mix all together with half a gill of brandy, put it into a cloth, tie it up clofe, and boil it four hours. Marrow Pudding. GRATE a penny loaf into crumbs, and pour on them a pint of boiling-hot cream. Cut very thin a pound of beef marrow, beat four eggs well, and then add a glafs of brandy, with fugar ana nutmeg to your tafte. Mix them all well together, and then boil or bake it. Three quarters of an hour will do it. Cut two ounces of citron very thin, and when you difh it up, ftick them all over it. Plumb Pudding boiled. CUT a pound of fuet into little pieces, but not too fine, a pound of currants waffled clean, a pound of raifins ftoned, eight yolks of eggs, and four whites, half a nut¬ meg grated, a tea-fpoonful of beaten ginger, a pound of PUDDINGS. 192 of flour, and a pint of milk. Beat the eggs firft, then put to them half the milk, and beat them together, and by degrees ftir in the flour, then the fuet, fpice, and fruit, and as much milk as will mix it well together very thick. It will take five hours boiling. Oxford Pudding. TAKE a quarter of a pound of grated bifcuits, the fame quantity of currants clean wafhed and picked, the fame of fuet fhred fmall, half a large fpoonful of pow¬ dered fugar, a little fait, and fome grated nutmeg. Mix them all well together, and take two yolks of eggs, and make them up into balls of the fize of a turkey’s egg. Fry them of a fine light brown in frefh butter, and let your fauce be melted butter and fugar, with a little white wine put into it. Cuftard Pudding. F R O M a pint of cream take two or three fpoonfuls, and mix them with a fpoonful of fine flour. Set the reft of the cream on the fire to boil, and as foon as it is boiled, take it off, and ftir in the cold cream and flour very well. When it be cool, beat up five yolks and two whites of eggs, and ftir in a little fait and fome nut¬ meg, two or three fpoonfuls of lack, and fweeten to your palate. Butter an earthen bowl, and pour it into it, tie a cloth oyer it, and boil it half an hour. Then take it out, untie the cloth, turn the pudding into your difh, and pour on it melted butter. Sweetmeat Puddings COVER your difh with a thin puff pafte, then take candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron, of each an ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the bot¬ tom of the difh. Then beat eight yolks of eggs and two whites, near half a pound of fugar, and half a pound of melted butter. Beat all well together, pour in all your fweetmeats, and bake it fomething lefs than an hour ' in a moderately heated oven. Prune I ir. poi watt cream. loaf foa* a thin pui. the difh. 1 m . t 1C * A Second Sort of Orange Pudding. BEAT fixteen yolks fine, mix them with half a pound of frefn butter melted, half a pound of white fugar, half a pint of cream,'a little rofe water, and a * little nutmeg. Cut the peel of a large Seville orange fo thin that none of the white may appear, beat it fine in a mortar till they be like a pafle, and by degrees mix in the ingredients. Then lay a puff pafle all over the difh, pour in the ingredients, and bake it. A Third Sort of Orange Pudding. GRATE off the rind of two large Seville oranges as far as they be yellow. Then put your oranges in fair O water a vVA. 1JL 1 x. joil i'hen eady a . up in a .*e lemon rind with it, and beat up twelve yolks and fix whites of eggs very fine. Melt a quarter of a pound of frefh butter, and put in half a pound of fugar, and a little orange flower water. Mix all well together, put it over the g itove, keep it ftirring till it be thick, and then fqueeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put puff* pafte round your dilh, as before directed, then pour in your pudding, cut fome candied fweetmeats and ftrew over it, and bake it three quarters of an hour. Or you may make it in this manner. Blanch and beat eight ounces of Jordan almonds with orange flower water, and add to them half a pound of cold butter, the yolks of ten eggs, the juice of a large lemon, and half the rind grated fine. Work them in a marble mortar till they look white and light, then PUDDINGS. * 9 $ then put the puff pafte on your difh, pour in your pud¬ ding, and bake it half an hour. Sago Pudding. BOIL two ounces of fago in a pint of milk till ten¬ der. When cold, add five eggs, two Naples bifcuits, a little brandy, and fugar to the tafte. Boil it in a bafon, and ferve it with melted butter, and a little wine and fugar. * Almond Pudding. H AVIN G boiled the fkins of two lemons very ten¬ der, and beat them fine, beat half a pound of almonds in rofe water, and a pound of fugar, till they be very fine. Melt half a pound of butter, and let it ftand till it be quite cold. Beat the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, and then mix and beat them all together with a little orange flower water. Bake it in the oven. Or you may make almond puddings in this manner. Beat fine a pound and a half of blanched almonds with a little rofe water, a pound of grated bread, a pound and a quarter of fine fugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a large nutmeg beat fine, and half a pound of melted butter, mixed with the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four beat fine ; a pint of fack, a pint and a half of cream, and fome rofe or orange flower water. Boil the cream, tie a little faffron in a bag, and dip it into the cream to colour it. Firft beat your eggs well, and mix them with your butter. Beat it up, then put in the fpice, then the almonds, then the rofe water and wine by degrees, beating it all the time; then tj^e fugar, and then the cream by degrees, keeping it fhr- ring, and then add a quarter of a pound of vermicelli. Stir all together, and have ready fome hog’s guts nicely cleaned. Fill them only half full, and as you put in the ingredients, here and there put in a bit of citron. Tie both ends of the gut tight, and boil them about a quarter of an hour. O 2 Jpfwicb / PUDDINGS. 196 Ipfwich Almond Pudding. TAKE a little more than three ounces of the crumb of white bread fliced, or grated, and fteep it in a pint and a half of cream. Then beat half a pint of blanched almonds very fine, till they be Ijke a pafte, with a little orange flower water. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four. Mix all well together, put in a quarter of a pound of white fugar, and ftirin about a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Put it over the fire, and keep ftirring it till it be thick. Lay a fheet of puff pafte at the bottom of your difti, and pour in the ingredients. Half an hour will bake it. Duke of Buckingham' s Pudding. TAKE a pound of fuet chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of raifins ftoned and chopped, two eggs, a little nutmeg and ginger, two fpoonfuls of flour, and fugar to the tafte. Tie it clofe, boil it four hours at leaft, and ferve it with melted butter, fack, and fugar. Duke of Cumberland's Pudding. TAKE flour, grated apples, currants, chopped fuet, and fugar> of each fix ounces; fix eggs, a little nutmeg and fait. Boil it two hours at leaft, and ferve it with melted butter, wine, and fugar. Herb Pudding. TAKE a quart of grotts, and fteep them in warm water half an hour. Take a pound of hog’s lard, and cut it into little bits. Take of fpinach, beets, parfley and leaks, a handful cf each; three large onions chop¬ ped fmall, and three fage leaves cut fine. Put in a little fait, mix all well together, and tie it clofe. It will require to be taken up in boiling, to loofen the firing a little. Spinach Pudding. PICK and wafn clean a quarter of a peck of fpi¬ nach, put it into a faucepan with a little fait, cover it clofe, and when it be boiled juft tender, throw it ftito a fieve to drain. Then chop it with a knife, beat up fix eggs. PUDDINGS. l 97 eggs, and mix well with it half a pint of cream, and a Hale roll grated fine, a little nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of melted butter. Stir all well together, put it into the faucepan in which you boiled the fpinach, and keep ftirring it all the time till it begins to thicken. Then wet and flour your cloth well, tie it up, and boil it an hour. When it be .enough, turn it into your difn, pour melted butter over it, and the juice of a Seville orange. You may ufe fugar or not, as you pleafe. If you bake it, you mull put in a quarter of a pound of fugar ■, and you may, if you - lit- it better, ufe bifeuit inftead of bread. Cream Pudding . B O IL a quart of cream with a blade of mace, and half a nutmeg grated, and then let it Hand to cool. Beat up eight eggs, and three whites, and ftrain them well. Mix a fpoonful of flour with them, a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched, and beat very fine, with a fpoon¬ ful of orange flower or rofe water. Mix with the eggs, then by degrees mix in the cream, and beat all well to¬ gether. Take a thick cloth, wet and flour it well, pour in your mixture, tie' it clofe, and boil it half an hour. Let the water boil fait all the time, and when it be done, turn it into your difh, pour melted butter over it, with a little fack, and throw fine fugar all over it. Vermicelli Pudding. TAKE four ounces of vermicelli, and boil it in a pint of new milk till it be foft, with a (tick or two of cinnamon. Then put in half a pint of thick cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, the like quantity of fugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten. Bake it without pafte in an earthen difh. Rice Puddings. H AVIN G boiled four ounces of ground rice in water till it be foft, beat the yolks of four eggs, and put to them a pint of cream, four ounces of fugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Having mixed them well together, either boil or bake it. Or you may make O 3 your . PUDDINGS. 198 your pudding thus. Take a quarter of a pound of rice, put it into a faucepan, with a quart of new milk, a flick of cinnamon, and flir it often to prevent it flicking to the faucepan. When it be boiled thick, put it into a pan, flir in a quarter of a pound of frefh butter, and fugar it to your palate. Grate in half a nutmeg, add three or four fpoonfuls of rofe water, and flir all well together. When it be cold, beat up eight eggs with half the whites, and then beat it all well together. Pour it into a buttered difh, and bake it. If you would make a cheap boiled rice pudding, pro¬ ceed thus. Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and half a pound of raifins, and tie them in a cloth; but give the rice a good deal of room to fwell. Boil it two hours, and when it be enough, turn it into your difh, and pour melted butter and fugar over it, with a little nutmeg. Or you may make it thus. Tie a quarter of a pound of rice in a cloth, but give it room for fwelling. Boil it an hour, then take it up, untie it, and with a fpoon flir in a quarter of a pound of butter. Grate fome nut¬ meg, and fweeten it to your tafle. Then tie it up clofe, and boil it another hour. Then take it up, turn it into your difh, and pour over it melted butter. You may make a cheap baked rice pudding thus. Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in a quart of new milk, and keep flirring it that it may not burn. When it begins to be thick, take it off, and let it fland till it be a little cool. Then flir in well a quarter of a pound of butter, and fugar it to your palate. Grate in a fmall nutmeg, then pour your pudding into a buttered difh, and bake it. Flour Hafiy Pudding. PUT four bay leaves into a quart of milk, and fet it on the fire to boil. Then beat up the yolks of two eggs, and flir in a little fait. Take two or three fpoon¬ fuls of milk, and beat up with your eggs, and flir in your milk. Then, with a wooden fpoon in one hand, and the flour in the other, flir it in till it be of a good thicknefs, but not too thick. Let it boil, and keep it flirring; PUDDINGS. 199 ftirring; then pour it into a difh, and flick pieces of butter here and there. You may omit the eggs, if you do not like them; but they are a good addition to the pudding. A little piece of butter ftirred in the milk, makes it eat fhort and fine. Before you put in the flour, take out the bay leaves. Fine Hajiy Pudding. H A VIN G broken an egg into fine flour, with your hand work up as much as you can into a ftifF pafte, and thus mince it as fmall as pofiible. Then put it into a quart of boiling milk, and put in a little fait, a little beaten cinnamon, a little fugar, a piece of butter as big as a walnut, and ftir all one way. When it be as thick as you would have it, ftir in luch another piece of but¬ ter, then pour it into your difh, and flick pieces of but¬ ter in different places. Millet Pudding. WASH and pick clean half a pound of millet feed, put to it half a pound of fugar, a whole nunneg grated, and three quarts of milk, and break in half a pound of frefli butter* Butter your difli, pour it into it, and fend it to the oven. Apricot Pudding. TAKE fix large apricots, and coddle them till they be tender, break them very fmall, and fweeten them to your tafte. When they be cold, add to them fix yolks and two whites of eggs. Mix them well together with a pint of good cream, lay a puff pafte all over your difli, and pour in your ingredients. Bake it half an hour in a moderately heated oven, and when it be enough, throw a little fine fugar all over it. Fhiaking Pudding. B E AT well together the yolks of fix and the whites of three eggs, with a pint of cream, and mix them well together. Grate in a little nutmeg, a little lalt, and add a little role water, if you choofe it. Grate in the crumb of a halfpenny roll, or a fpoonful of flour firft O 4 mixed 2,00 PUDDINGS. mixed with a little of the cream, or a fpoonful of the flour of rice. Butter a cloth well, and flour it. Then put in your mixture, tie it rather loofe than tight, and, boil it half an hour brifldy; but remember your water muft boil before you put in your pudding. Oat Pudding baked. TAKE two pounds of decorticated oats, and drown them in new milk 5 eight ounces of raifins of the fun floned, the fame quantity of currants well picked and walked, a pound of fweet fuet fhred finely, and fix new- laid eggs well beat up. Seafon with nutmeg, beaten ginger, and fait, and mix them all well together. An Oatmeal Pudding after the New England Manner. TAKE a pint of whole oatmeal, and fieep it in a quart of boiled milk over night. In the morning- take half a pound of beef fuet fhred fine, and mix with the oatmeal and boiled milk home grated nutmeg, and a little fait, with the yolks and whites of three eggs, a quarter of a pound of currants, a quarter of a pound of raifins, and as much fugar as will fweeten it. Stir it well to¬ gether, tie it pretty clofe, and boil it two hours. For fauce ufe melted butter. Pranfparent Pudding. PUT eight eggs well beaten into a pan, with half a pound of butter, and the fame quantity of loaf fugar beat fine, with a little grated nutmeg. Set it on the fire, and keep ftirring it till it be of the thicknefs of but¬ tered eggs. Then put it in a bafon to cool, roil a rich puff pafte very thin, lay it round the cage of your difh, and pour in the ingredients, Bake it half an hour in a moderately heated oven, and it will cut light and clear. French Barley Pudding. . TAKE the yolks of fix eggs and the whites of three, beat them up well, and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten it to your palate, and put in a little orange flower water, or rofe water, and a pound of melted but¬ ter. Then put in fix handfuls of French barley, having 4 fir ft PUDDINGS. 201 fir ft boiled it tender in milk. Then butter a difh, put it into it, and fend it to the oven. Potatce Pudding. BOIL a quarter of a pound of potatoes till they be loft, peel them, and mafh them with the back of a fpoon, and rub them through a fieve to have them fine and fmooth. Then take half a pound of frefh butter melted, half a pound of fine fugar, and beat them well toge¬ ther till they be fmooth. Beat fix eggs, whites as well as yolks, and ftir them in with a glafs of fack or brandy. If you choofe it, you may add half a pint of currants. Boil it half an hour, melt fome butter, and put into it a glafs of white wine, fweeten it with fugar, and pour it over it. Or you may make a potatoe pudding for baking thus. Boil two pounds of white potatoes till they be foft, peel and beat them in a mortar, and ftrain them through a fieve till they be quite fine. Then mix in half a pound of frefh butter melted, beat up the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of three. Stir them in with half a pound of white fugar finely pounded, half a pint of fack, and flir them well together. Grate in half a large nut¬ meg, and ftir in half a pint of cream. Make a puff pafte, lay it all over the difh, and round the edges; pour in the pudding, and bake it till it be of a fin? light brown. Carrot Pudding. SCRAPE a raw carrot very clean, and grate it. Take half a pound of the grated carrot, and a pound of grated bread; beat up eight eggs, leave out half the whites, and mix the eggs with half a pint of cream. Then ftir in the bread and carrot, half a pound of frefh butter melted, half a pint of fack, three fpoonfuls of orange flower water, and a nutmeg grated.' Sweeten to your palate. Mix all well together, and if it be not thin enough, ftir in a little new milk or cream. Let it be of a moderate thicknefs, lay a puff pafte all over the difh, and pour in the ingredients. It will take an hour's 20 2 PUDDINGS. baking. If you would boil it, you mult melt butter, and put in white wine and fugar. Another Carrot Pudding. PARE the cruft off two penny loaves, foak them in a quart of boiling milk, and let them ftand till they be cold. Then grate in two or three large carrots, and put in eight eggs well beaten, and three quarters of a pound of frefh butter melted. Grate in a little nutmeg, and fweeten to your tafte. Cover your difh with puff pafte, pour in your ingredients, and bake it an hour. Suet Pudding boiled. TAKE four fpoonfuls of flour, a pound of fuetfhred fmall, four eggs, a lpoonful of beaten ginger, a tea- fpoonful of fait, and a quart of milk. Mix the eggs and flour with a pint of the milk very thick, and with the feafoning mix in the reft of the milk and fuet. Let your batter be pretty thick, and boil it two hours. Veal Suet Pudding. CUT the crumb of a three-penny loaf into flices; boil and pour two quarts of milk on the bread; one pound of veal fuet melted down and poured into the milk. Add to thefe one pound of currants, and fugar to the tafte, half a nutmeg, and fix eggs well mixed to¬ gether. If to be baked, butter the difh well. This will do for either baking or boiling. Cabbage Pudding. TAKE two pounds of beef fuet, and as much of the lean part of a leg of veal. Take a little cabbage and fcald it; then bruife the fuet, veal, and cabbage to¬ gether in a marble mortar. Seafon it with mace, nut- D J meg, ginger, a little pepper and fait, fome green goofe- berries, grapes, or berberries. Mix them all well to¬ gether, with the yolks of four or five eggs well beaten. Wrap all up together in a green cabbage leaf, and tie it in a cloth. An hour will boil it. Lady PUDDINGS. 203 Lady Sunderland’s Puddings. TAKE a pint of cream, eight eggs, leave out three whites, five fpoonfuls of flour, and half a nutmeg. 'When they are going to the oven, butter fmall bafons, fill them half full, bake them half an hour, and grate fome fugar over them. For fatice melted butter, wine, and fugar. When they are baked, turn them out of the bafons, and pour fome of the fauce over them. Pith Pudding. PUT a proper quantity of the pith of an ox all night in water to foak out the blood, and in the morn¬ ing ftrip it out of the fkin, and beat it with the back of a fpoon in orange water till it be as fine as pap. Then take three pints of thick cream, and boil in it two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg quartered, and a flick of cinnamon. Then take half a pound of the beft Jor¬ dan almonds, blanched in cold water, and beat them with a little of the cream, and as it dries, put in more cream. When they be all beaten, drain the cream from them to the pith. Then take the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of but two, and beat them well, and put them to the ingredients. Take a fpoonful of grated bread or Naples bifcuit, and mix all thefe together, with half a pound of fine fugar, the marrow of four large bones, and a little fait. Fill them in fmall ox or hog’s guts, or bake it in a dilfi, with puff pafte round the edges and under it. Citron Pudding. TAKE a fpoonful of fine flour, two ounces of fugar, a little nutmeg, and half a pint of cream. Mix them all well together, with the yolks of three eggs. Put it in tea-cups, and flick in it two ounces of citron cut very thin. Bake them in a pretty quick oven, and turn them out upon a China difh. Bread Pudding. S EIC E thin all the crumb of a penny loaf into a quart of milk, and fet it over a chafing-difh of coals till 3 the 204 PUDDINGS. the bread has foaked up all the milk. Then put in a piece of butter, ftir it round, and let it Hand till it be cold; or you may boil your milk, and pour it over your bread, and cover it up clofe, which will equally an- fwer the fame purpofe. Then take the yolks of fix eggs, the whites of three, and beat them up with a little rofe water and nutmeg, and a little fait and fugar. Mix all well together, and boil it an hour. If you with to make a very fine bread pudding, you muft^ proceed in this manner. Cut thin all the crumb of a ftale penny loaf, and put it into a quart of cream. Set it over a flow fire till it be fcalding hot, and then let it (land till it be cold. Beat up the bread and cream well together, and grate in fome nutmeg. Take twelve bitter almonds, boil them in two fpoonfuls of water, pour the water to the cream, ftir it in with a little fait, and fweeten it to your tafte. Blanch the almonds, and beat them in a mortar, with two fpoonfuls of rofe or orange flower water, till they be a fine pafte. Then mix them by degrees with the cream, and when they be well mixed, take the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four; beat them well, and mix them with your cream, and . then mix all well together. A bowl or bafon will be beft to boil it in; but if you make ufe of a cloth, be fure to dip it in the hot water, and flour it well. Tie it loofe, and boil it an hour. Take care that the water boil when you put it in, and that it keep boiling ail the time. When it be enough, turn it into your difh. Melt fome butter, and put into it two or three fpoonfuls of white wine or fack; give it a boil, and pour it over your pudding. Then fcrew a good deal of fine fugar all over yoijr pudding and difh, and fend it hot to table. A baked Bread Pudding . RASP or crumble the crumb of a penny loaf, take the fame quantity of flour, the yolks of four eggs and two whites, a tea-fpobnful of ginger, half a pound of raifins ftoned, half a pound of currants clean wafhed and picked, and a little fait. Mix firft the bread and flour, ginger. PUDDINGS. 20 £ ginger, fait, and fugar, to your palate; then the eggs, and as much milk as will make it like a good batter 5 then the fruit. Butter the difh, pour it in, and bake it. Prune Pudding. BEAT fix eggs, half the whites, with half a pint of milk, and four fpoonfuls of flour, a little fait, and two fpoonfuls of beaten ginger. Then by degrees mix in the remainder of a quart of milk, and a pound of prunes. Tie it in a cloth, boil it an hour, and melt butter and pour over it. Damfons done this way eat as well as prunes. A Spoonful Pudding. TAKE a fpoonful of flour, a fpoonful of cream or milk, an egg, a little nutmeg, ginger, and fait. Mix all together, and boil it in a little wooden difh half an hour. You may add a few currants. Panfey Pudding. * TO four Naples bifcuits grated, put as much boil- • ing hot cream as will wet them. Then beat up the yolks of four eggs, and have ready a few chopped tanfey leaves, with as much fpinach as will make it a pretty green. Be careful that you do not put in too much tanfey, as that will make it bitter. When the cream be cold, mix all together with a little fugar, and fet it over a flow fire till it be thick. Then take it off, and when cold put it in a cloth well buttered and floured. Tie it up clofe, and let it boil three quarters of an hour. Take it up in a bafon, and let it fjand one quarter. Then turn it out carefully, and put round it white wine fauce. Or you may make a tanfey pudding with almonds thus: Blanch four ounces of almonds, and beat them very fine with role water. Pour a pint of cream boiling hot on a French roll fliced very thin. Beat four eggs well, and mix with them a little fugar and nutmeg grated, a glafs of brandy, a little juice of tanfey, and the juice of fpinach, to make it green. Put all the in¬ gredients into a ftewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter. i •' ' 2 C >6 PUDDINGS. butter, and give it a gentle boil. You may either boil or bake it in a difh, either with writing-paper or a cruft. White Puddings in Skins. BOIL half a pound of rice in milk till it be foft, having firft wafhed the rice well in warm water. Put it into a fieve to drain, and beat half a pound of Jordan almonds very fine, with fome rofe water. Wafli and dry a pound of currants, cut in fmall bits a pound of hog’s lard, beat up fix eggs well, half a pound of fugar, a large nutmeg grated, a (tick of cinnamon, a little mace, and a little fait. Mix them well together, fill your fkins, and boil them. Quince, Apricot , or White-P'ear- Plum Pudding. HAVING fcalded your quinces till they be very tender, pare them thin, and fcrape oft' the foft. Mix it with fugar till it be very fweet, and put in a little gin¬ ger and a little cinnamon. To a pint of cream put three or four yolks of eggs, and ftir it into your quinces till they be of a good thicknefs. Remember to make it pretty thick. In the fame manner you may treat apricots or white-pear-plums. Butter your difh, pour it in, and bake it. Cowjlip Pudding. CUT and pound fmall the flowers of a peck of cow- flips, with half a pound of Naples bifcuits grated, and three pints of cream. Boil them a little, then take them off the fire, and beat up fixteen eggs, with a little cream and role water. Sweeten to your palate. Mix it all well together, butter a difh, and pour it in. Bake it, and when it be enough, throw fine fugar over it, and ferve it up. When you cannot get cream, new milk will do well enough for thele forts of puddings,. Pearl Barley Pudding. WASH a pound of pearl barley clean, put to it three quarts of new milk, and half a pound of double re¬ fined fugar, and a nutmeg grated; then put it into a deep pan, and bake it with brown bread. Take it out of PUDDINGS. ao; of the oven, beat up fix eggs, and mix all well toge¬ ther. Butter a difh, pour it in, bake it again an hour, and it will be very good. French Barley Pudding. T O fix eggs well beaten put a quart of cream, half the whites, fweeten to your palate, a little orange flower, or rofe water, and a pound of melted butter. Then put in fix handfuls of French barley, which has been boiled tender in milk. Butter the difh, and put it in. It will take as long baking as a venifon paftv. Chejlnut Pudding. BOIL a dozen and a half of cheftnuts in a faucepan of water for a quarter of an hour. Then blanch and peel them, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a little orange flower or rofe water and fack, till they come to a fine thin pafte. Then beat up twelve eggs with half the whites, and mix them well. Grate half a nut¬ meg, a little fait, and mix them with three pints of cream, and half a pound of melted butter. Sweeten it to your palate, and mix all together. Put it over the fire, and keep ftirring it till it be thick. Lay a puff pafte all over the difh, pour in the mixture and bake it. When you cannot get cream, take three pints of milk, beat up the yolks of four eggs, and ftir into the milk. Set it over the fire, ftirring it all the time till it be fcalding hot, and then mix it inftead of cream. Sweetmeat Pudding. ■ HAVING put a thin puff pafte all over your difh, take candied orange, lemon-peel, and citron, of each an ounce. Slice them thin, and lay them all over the bot¬ tom of your difh. Then beat eight yolks of eggs and two whites, near half a pound of fugar, and half a pound of melted butter. Beat all well together, and pour it on the fweetmeats as foon as the oven be ready, which muft not be too hot. An hour or lefs will bake it. Bread and Butter Pudding. o C U T a penny loaf into thin flices of bread and but¬ ter, as you do for tea. Butter your difh, and lay flices aft 208 PUDDINGS. 9 all over it. Then fcrevv a few currants walked and picked clean, then a row of bread and butter, then a few currants, and fo on till your bread and butter be all in. Then take a pint of milk, beat up four eggs, a little fait, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix all toge¬ ther with fugar to your tafte; then pour it over the bread* and bake it half an hour. A puff pafte under does beft. You may put in two fpoonfuls of rofe water if you choofe it. Cheeje-curd Puddings. TURN a gallon of milk with rennet, and drain off all the curd from the whey. Put the curd into a mor¬ tar, and beat it with half a pound of frefh butter, till the butter and curd be well mixed. Then beat the yolks of fix eggs and the whites of three, and ftrain them to the curd. Then grate two Naples bifcuits, or half a penny roll. Mix all thefe together, and fweeten to your palate. Butter your patty-pans, and fill them with the ingredients. Bake them in a moderately heated oven, and when they be done, turn them out into a difh. Cut citron and candied orange-peel into little narrow bits, # about an inch long, and blanched almonds cut in long- flips. Stick them here and there on the tops of the puddings, according to your fancy. Pour melted but¬ ter, with a little fack in it, into the difh, and throw fine fugar all over the puddings and difh. Apple Pudding. PARE twelve large pippins, and take out the cores. Put them into a faucepan, with four or five fpoonfuls of water, and boil them till they be foft and.thick. Then beat them well, ftir in a pound of loaf fugar, the juice of three lemons, and the"peels of two cut thin and beat fine in a mortar, and the yolks of eight eggs beaten* Mix all well together, and bake it in a (lack oven. When it be nearly done, throw over it a little fine fugar. If you pleafe, you may bake it in a puff pafte at the bot¬ tom of the difh, and round the edges of it. Apple PUDDINGS. log Apple Dumplins . HAVING pared your apples, ta'ke out the core with an appie-fcraper, and fill the hole with quince or orange marmalade, or fugar, as may fiiit you beft. Then take a piece of cold pafte, and make a hole in it, as if you were going to make a pie. Lay in your apple, arid put another piece of pafte in the fame form, and clofe it up round the fide of your apple, which is much better than gathering it in a lump at one end. Tie it in a cloth, and boil it three quarters of an hour. Serve them up, with melted butter poured over them. Goojeberry Pudding . TAKE half a pint of green goofeberries, and fcald them in water till they be foft. Put them into a fieve to drain, and when cold work them through a hair fieve with the back of a clean wooden fpoon. Then add half a pound .of fugar, the fame of butter, four ounces of Naples bifcuits, and fix eggs beaten. Mix all together, and beat them a quarter of an hour. Pour it in an earthen difh without pafte, and bake it half an hour. Suet Dumplins with Currants. TAKE a pint of milk, four eggs, a pound of fuet, a little fait and nutmeg, two tea-fpponfuls of ginger, and what flour will make it inter a light pafte. When the water boils, make the pafte into dumplins, rolled with a little flour, the fize of a goofe egg. Throw them into the water, and move them gently to prevent their flicking. A little more than half an hour will boil them. Rajpberry Dumplins. MAKE a good puff pafte, and roll it. Spread over it rafpberry jam, roll it up, and boil it an hour. Cut it into five flices, pour melted butter into the difh, grated fugar round it. Pennyroyal Dumplins. GRATE the crumb of a penny loaf, take three quarters of a pound of beef fuet, the fame of currants, four eggs, a little brandy, a little thyme and pennyroyal, P and * -V aio PUDDINGS. and a handful of parfley fhred. Mix all well, roll them up with nour, and put them into cloths. Three quar¬ ters of an hour will boil them. Yefi Dumplins. WITH flour, water,, yefi and fait, make a light dough as for bread, cover it with a cloth, and fet it be¬ fore the fltc for half an hour. Then have a faucepan of water on the fire, and when it boils, take the dough, and make it into little round balls, as bio; as a large hen’s egg. Then flatten them with your hand, put them into the boiling water, and a few minutes will do them. Take care that they do not fall to the bottom of the pot or faucepan, for they will then be heavy, and be fure to keep the water boiling all the time. When they be enough take them up, and lay them in your difh, with melted butter in a boat. To fave trouble, you may get your dough at the baker’s, which will do equally as well. Norfolk Dumplins. TAKE half a pint of milk, two eggs, a little fair, and make them into a good thick batter with flour. Have ready a clean faucepan of water boiling, and drop your batter into it, and two or three minutes will boil them; but be particularly careful that the -water boils fall when you put the batter in. Then throw them into a fieve to drain, turn them into a difh, and ftir a lump of frefh- * butter into them. They will be very good if eaten hot. Hard Dumplins. MAKE fome flour and water, with a little fait, into a fort of pafte. Roll them in balls as big as a turkey’s egg. Roll them in a little flour, throw them into boil¬ ing water, and half an hour will boil them. They are belt boiled with a good piece of beef. You may add, for change, a few currants. Serve them up with melt¬ ed butter in a cup. Batter Pudding. TAKE a quart of milk, beat up the yolks of fix fggs, and the whites of three v and mix them with a quarter 2X1 PUDDINGS. quarter of a pint of milk. Take fix fpoonfuls of flour, a tea-fpoonful of fait, and one of beaten ginger. *Mix them all together, boil them an hour and a quarter, and pour melted butter over the pudding. You may, if you pleafe, put in half a pound of prunes or currants, and two or three more eggs. Or you may make it without eggs, in the following manner: Take a quart of milk, mix fix fpoonfuls of the flour with a little of the milk firfl, a tea-fpoonful of lalt, two of beaten ginger, and two of the tinflure of faffron. Then mix all toge¬ ther, and boil it an hour. Batter Pudding without Eggs . MIX fix fpoonfuls of flour with a little milk, a tea- fpoonful of fait, two tea-fpoonfuls of beaten ginger, and two of the tindhire of faffron. Mix it with near a quart of milk, and boil it an hour. If you think proper, you may add fruit. A Grateful Puddinm T O a pound of flour, add a pound of white bread grated. Take eight eggs, but only half the whites. Beat them up, and mix with them a pint of new milk; Then ftir in the bread and flour, a pound of raifinsddoned, a pound of currants, half a pound of fugar, and a little beaten ginger. Mix all well together, and either bake or boil it. It will take three quarters of an hour baking. Put cream in, inftead of milk, if you have it* which will be a great addition. Ratafia Pudding, B OIL a quart of cream, with four or five laurel leaves. Then take them out, and break in hall a pound of Na¬ ples bifcuit, half a pound of butter, fome lack, nutmeg, and a little fait. Take it off the fire, cover it up, and when it be almoft cold, put in two ounces of blanched almonds beat fine, and the yolks of five eggs. Mix all together, and bake it half an hour in a moclerately-heated oven. Before you put it into the oven, grate a little fugar over it. p i C H A P* CHAP. XVI. PIES. Preliminary Hints and Observations. A S the heat of your oven mu ft be regulated by what .you intend to bake, the following rules fhould be carefully attended to. Light pafte requires a moderate oven, but not too flow, as that will deprive it of the light appearance it fhould have j and too quick an oven will catch and burn it, without giving it time to rile. Tarts that are iced require a flow oven, or the icing will be brown, before the pafte be properly baked. Raifed pies muft have a quick oven, and be well doled up, or your pie will fall in the fides. It ftiould have no water put in till juft before you put it into the even, as that will make the cruft look fodden, and perhaps be the caufe of the pie running, which will infallibly fpoil it. Different Kinds of Pajles for Parts,. Pies , He. CRISP -pafte for tarts is made thus. Mix an ounce of loaf fugar, beat and fifted, with a pound of fine flour, and make it into a ftifF pafte with a gill of boiling cream. Work three ounces of butter into it, roil it very thin, and having made your tarts, beat the white of an egg a little, and rub it over them with a feather. Sift a little double-refined fugar over them, and bake them as above direfted. You may, if you pleafe, make the king for your tarts in the following manner: Beat the white of an egg to a ftreng froth, and put in, by degrees, four ounces of double-refined fugar, with as much gum as will lie on a fun-pence, beat and fifted fine. Beat them half an hour, and then lay it thin on your tarts. - Puff-pafts is made thus. Rub a pound of butter very fine into a quarter of a peck of flour. Make it up into a light pafte with cold water, juft ftifF enough to work it. Then roll it out about the thicknefs of a crown- piece* PIES. 2*5 piece, and put a layer of butter all over. Sprinkle on a little flour, double it up,, and roll it out again. Double it, and roll it out feven or eight times, when it will be fit for all forts of pies and tarts that require a puff pafte. Another light pafte for tarts . Beat the white of an egg to* a ftrong froth, and mix it with as much water as will make three quarters of a pound of flour into a tolerably fuff pafte. Roll it out very thin, lay the third part of half a pound of butter in thin pieces, and dredge it with a little more flour. Roll it up tight, then roll it out again, and continue to do fo until half a pound of butter and flour be ufed. Cut k in lquare pieces, and make your tarts. This will require a quicker oven that what you ufed for your crifp pafte. Pafte for euflards may be thus made. Pour half a pound of boiling butter on two pounds of flour, with as. much water as will make it into a good pafte. Work it well, and when it has cooled a little, raife your cuf- tards, put a paper round the in fide of them, and when they be half baked, fill them. When you make any kind of dripping-pafte , boil it four or five minutes in a good quantity of water, to take the ftrength off it. . When you make a cold cruft with fuct y Aired the fuet fine, pour part of it into the flour, then make it into a pafte, and roll it out as before, with this difference, make ufe of fuet inftead of butter. The following is a good cruft for great pies : Put the yolks of three eggs to a peck of flour, pour in fome boil¬ ing water, then put in half a pound of fuet, and a pound and a half of butter. Skim off the butter and fuet, and as much of the liquor as will make it a light good cruft. Work it up well, and roll it out. If you would make a jtanding cruft for great pies , do it as follows: Take a peck of flour, and fix pounds of butter boiled in a gallon of water. Skim it off into the flour, and as little of the liquor as you can. Work it up well into a pafte, and then pull it into pieces till it be cold. Then make it up into what form you pleafe. This pafte is proper for the walls of a goofe pie. P 3 Lamb ■i 14 PIES. Lamb or Veal Pies. CUT your lamb or veal into little pieces, and fea¬ fon it with pepper, fait, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, beat fine. Make a good puff paite cruft, lay it into your difh, then lay in your meat, and ftrew on it fome ftoned raifins and currants clean wafhed, and fome ftigar. Then lay on it fome forcemeat balls made fweet, and. in the fummer, fome artichoke bottoms boiled ; and, in the winter, fcalded grapes. Boil Spanifh potatoes cut in pieces, candied citron, candied orange, lemon-peel, and three or four blades of mace. Put butter on the top, clofe up your pie, and bake it. Againft its return from the over., have ready a caudle made thus. Take a pint of white wine, and mix in the yolks of three eggs. Stir it well together over the lire, one way, all the time, till it be thick. Then take it off, ftir in fugar enough to fweeten it, and fqueeze in the juice of a lemon. Put it hot into your pie, and clofe it up again. Send your pie up to table as hot as poffible. Savory Veal Pie. CUT a breaft of veal into pieces, feafon it with pep¬ per and fait, and lay it all into your cruft. Boil fix or eight hard eggs, but take only the yolks ; put them into the pie here and there, then fill your difh almoft full of water, put on the lid, and bake it well. Beef-Steak Pie. BEAT fome rump-fteaks with a rolling-pin, and feafon them with pepper and fait to your palate. Make a good cruft, lay in your {leaks, and then pour in as much water as will half fill the difh. Put on the cruft, and bake it well. Ox-Cheek Pie. HAVING baked your ox-cheek, but take care not to do it too much, let it lie in the oven all night, and it will be ready for further ufe the next day. Make a fine puff pafte cruft, and let your fide and top-cruft be thick. Your difh muft be deep, in order to hold a good deal of gravy. Cover the infide of it with cruft, then PIES. then cut all the flefh, kernels, and fat off the head, with the palate cut in pieces. Cut all the meat into little pieces, as if it were for a hafli, and lay it in the difh. Take an ounce of truffles and* morels, and throw them over the meat, the yolks of fix eggs boiled hard, a gill of pickled mulhrooms, if frefh ones be not to be had; put in plenty of forcemeat balls, a few artichoke bot¬ toms, or afparagus tops, if they be in feafon. Seafon your pie with pepper and fait, and fill it with the gravy it was baked in. If the head be rightly feafoned before it went to the oven, it will want very little more when it comes out. Then put on the lid and bake it, and your pie will be enough as foon as the cruft be properly baked. . Gulf's-Foot Pie. H AVIN G put your calf’s feet into a faucepan, with three quarts of water, and three or four blades of mace, let them boil foftlv till there be about a pint and a half only. Then take out your feet, ftrain the liquor, and make a good cruft. Cover your dilh, then pick off the flefh from the bones, and lay half in the difh, Strew over it half a pound of currants, clean waffled and picked, and half a pound of raifins ftoned. Then lay on the reft of the meat, fkim the liquor, fweeten it to your tafte, and put in half a pint of white wine. Then pour all into the difh, put on your lid, and bake it an hour and a half. \ Mutton Pie. TAKE off the fkin and infide fat of a loin of mut¬ ton, and cut it in fteaks; then feafon it well with pep¬ per and fait to your palate. Lay it into your cruft, fill it, and pour in as much water as will almoft fill your difh. Then put on the cruft, and bake it well. Venifon Pafty. HAVING boned a bread or fhoulder of venifon, feafon it well with pepper, fait, and mace. Lay it in a deep difh, with the beft part of a neck of mutton, cut in dices, and laid over the venifon. Pour in a large glafs of red wine, put a coarfe pafte over it, and bake P 4 it PIES. 216 it two hours in an oven. Then lay the venifon into a difh, and pour the gravy and a pound of butter over it. Make a good puff pafte, and lay it near half an inch thick round the edge of the dilh. Then roll out the lid, which muff be fomething thicker than the pafte on the edge of the dilh, and lay it on. Then roll out another lid pretty thin, and cut it in flowers, leaves, or whatever form you pleafe, and lay it on the lid. If your pie fhould not be immediately Wanted, it will keep in the pot it was baked in eight or ten days ; but in that cafe keep the cruft on, to prevent, the air getting into it. Savory Veal Pie . SEASON a loin of veal, cut into ffeaks, with fait, pepper, nutmeg, and beaten mace. Lay the meat in your difh, with fwcetbreads feafoned, and the yolks of fix hard eggs, a pint of oyfters, and half a pint of good gravy. Lay a good puff pafte round your difh, half an inch thick, and cover it with a lid jof the fame thicknefs. Bake it an hour and a quarter in a quick oven, and when you take it out of the oven, cut off' the lid ; then cut the lid in eight or ten pieces, and flick it round the infide of the rim. Cover the .meat with flices of lemon, Ham Pie . CUT cold boiled ham into flices about half an inch thick, and put a good thick cruft over the dilh. Then put in a layer of ham, and fhake a little pepper over it. Then take a large, young fowl clean picked, gutted, walked, and finged. Put a little pepper and fait in the belly, and rub a very little fait on the outfide. Lay the fowl on the ham, boil fome eggs hard, put in the yolks, and cover all with The ham. Then fhake fome pepper on the ham, and put on the top-cruft. Bake it well, and have ready, againft it comes out of the oven, fome very rich beef gravy, enough to fill' the pie ; then lay on the cruft again, and fend it to table. Some truffles and morels boiled, or fome frefh mulhrooms, or dried ones, put into the pie, is a great addition. ' Calf% PIES. 217 Calf s-Head Pie. HAVING cleanfed and boiled the head tender, carefully take oft the flefh as whole as you can. Then take out the eyes, and dice the tongue. Make a good puff pafte cruft, cover the difh, and lay on your meat. Throw the tongue over it, and lay the eyes, cut in two, at each corner. Seafon it with a very little pepper and fait, pour in half a pint of the liquor it was boiled in, lay on it a thin top-cruft, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. In the mean time, boil the bones of die head in two quarts of liquor, with two or three blades of mace, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, a large onion, and a bundle of fweet herbs. Let it boil till it be reduced to about a pint - } then drain it off^ and add two fpoonfuls of catchup, three of red wine, a fmall piece of butter rolled in flour, and half an ounce of truffles and morels. Seafon it to your palate, and boil it. Boil half the brains with fome fage, beat them, and twelve leaves of fage chopped fine. Then ftir all together, and give it a boil. Take the other part of the brains, and beat them, with fome of the fage chopped fine, a little lemon-peel finely minced, and half a fmall nutmeg grated. Beat it up with an egg, and fry it in little cakes of a fine light brown. Boil fix eggs hard, of which take only the yolks ; and when your pie comes out of the oven, take off the lid, lay the eggs and cakes over it, and pour in all the fauce. Send it hot to table without the lid. Goofe Pie. TAKE half a peck of flour, and make the walls of a goofe pie, as direfted in the lecond article of this chap¬ ter refpefting the different kinds of paftes. Having raifed your cruft juft big enough to hold a large goofe, take a pickled dried tongue boiled tender enough to peel, and cut off the root. Then bone a goofe and a large fowl; take half a quarter of an ounce of mace beat fine, a large tea-lpoonful of beaten pepper, and three tea-fpoonfuls of fait. Mix all together, and feafon your fowl and goofe with it. Then lay the fowl in the goofe, the tongue in the 2 l8 PIES. the fowl, and the goofe in the fame manner as if whole. Put half a pound of butter on the top, and put on the lid. This pie may be eaten either hot or cold, and makes a pretty little fide-difh for fupper, by cutting a (lice of it crofs-ways. Torkjhire Goofe Pie. SPLIT a large fat goofe down the back, and take out all the bones. Treat a turkey and two ducks the fame way, and feafon them well with fait and pepper, and alfo fix woodcocks. Lay the goofe down on a clean difh, with the fkin-fide down, and lay the turkey into the goofe in the fame manner. Have ready a large hare, well cleaned and cut in pieces, and ftewed in the oven, with a pound of butter, a quarter of an ounce of mace beat fine, the fame of white pepper, and fait to your tafte. Stew it till the meat leaves the bones, and fkirn the butter off the gravy. Pick the meat clean off, and beat it very fine in a marble mortar with the butter you took off, and then lay it in the turkey. Take twenty- four pounds of the fineft flour, fix pounds of butter, and half a pound of frefh rendered fuet. Make the pafte pretty thick, and raife the pie in an oval form. Roll out a lump of pafte, and cut it into vine leaves, or what form you pleafe; then rub the pie with the yolks of eggs, and put your ornaments on the walls. Then turn the hare, turkey* and goofe, upfide down, and lay them in your pie, with the ducks at each end, and the wookcocks at the fides. Then make your lid pretty thick, and put it on. You may ornament the lid in what manner you pleafe, but make a hole in the middle of it, and make the walls of your pie an inch and a half higher than the lid. Then rub it all over with the yolks of eggs, and bind it round with three-fold paper, and lay the fame over the top. Bake it four hours, and when it comes out, melt two pounds of butter in the gravy that comes from the hare, and pour it hot into the pie through a tun-diih. Clofe it well up, and do not cut it in lefs than eight or ten days. If your pie is to be fent to any diftance, it will be neceffary, in 'order to PIES. 219 to prevent the air getting to it, to flop up the hole in fhe middle of the lid with cold butter. Yorkjhire Giblet Pie. PUT a tea-cup full of grots into the blood of the goofe while it be warm, in order to fwell diem. Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, and pour on it a gill of boiling milk. Shred half a pound of beef fuet very fine, chop four or five leaves of fage and two leeks very fmall, put three yolks of eggs, and feafon it to your take with pepper, fait, and nutmeg. Mix them all up to¬ gether, and have ready your giblets well feafoned with pepper and fait. ' Lay them round a deep difh, and put a pound of fat beef over the pudding in the middle of the difh. Pour in half a pint of gravy, lay on a good pafte, and bake it in an oven moderately heated. Common Giblet Pie. CLEAN two pair of giblets well, and put all but the livers into a faucepan, with two quarts of water, twenty corns of whole pepper, three blades of mace, a bundle of fweet herbs, and a large onion. Cover them clofe, and let them ftew very flowly till they be quite tender. Have a good cruft ready, cover your difh, lay at the bottom a fine rump fteak feafoned with pepper and fait, put in your giblets with the livers, and ftrain the liquor they were ftewed in. Then feafon it with lalt, and pour it into your pie. Put on your lid, and bake it an hour and a half. Duck Pie. TAKE two ducks, fcald them, and make them very clean; cut off the feet, the pinions, the neck, and head; take out the gizzards, livers, and hearts, and pick all clean, and fcald them. Pick out the fat of the infide, lay a good puff' pafte cruft all over the difh, feafon the ducks both infide and out with pepper and fait, and lay them in your difh, with the giblets at each end properly feafoned. Put in as much water as will nearly fill the pie, and lay on the cruft. Pigeon 220 P I E S. Pigeon Pie. LET your pigeons be very nicely picked and dean* ed, and feafon them with pepper and fait. Put a large piece of freih butter, with pepper and fait, into their bellies. Then cover your dilh with a puff pafte cruft, and lay in your pigeons, and put between them the necks, gizzards, livers, pinions, and hearts, with the yolk of a hard eeg, and a beef-fteak in the middle. Put as much water as will nearly fill the dilh, and lay on the top cruft, and bake it well. Savory Chicken Pie. TAKE fmall chickens, and feafon them with pep¬ per, fait, and mace. Put a piece of butter into each of them, and lay them in the dilh with their breads up¬ wards. Lay a thin flice of bacon over them, which will give them an agreeable flavour. Then put in a pint of ftrong gravy, and make a good puff pafte. Put on the lid, and bake it in a moderately-heated oven. Hare Pie. CUT it into pieces, and feafon it with nutmeg, pepper, and fait. Jug it with half a pound of butter. It rnuft do above an hour, clofe covered, in a pot of boiling water. Make forcemeat, to which add the liver bruifed, and a glafs of red wine. Let it be high fea- foned, lay it round the infideof a railed cruft, put in the hare when cool, and add the gravy that comes from it, with fome more rich gravy. Put on the lid, and bake it two hours. Rabbit Pie to be eaten hot. TAKE a couple of young rabbits, and cut them into quarters j take a quarter of a pound of bacon, and bruife it to pieces in a plarble mortar, with the livers, fome pepper, fait, a little mace, and fome parfley cut fmall, fome chives, and a few leaves of fweet bafil. When thefe.are all beaten fjne, make the pafte, and cover the bottom of the pie with the feafoning. Then put in the rabbits, pound fome more bacon in a mortar, and with it fome freih butter; cover the rabbits with it, and over that that lay fome thin dices of bacon. Put on the lid, and fend it to the oven. It will take two hours baking;. O When it is done, take off the lid, take out, the bacon, and fcum off the fat. If there be not gravy enough in the pie, pour in fome rich mutton or veal gravy boil¬ ing hot. Partridge Pie to be eaten hot. TAKE three brace of full-grown partridges, and let them be traded in the fame manner as a fowl for boiling. Put into a marble mortar fhalots, fome pardey cut fmall, the livers of the partridges, and twice the quantity of bacon. Beat thefe together, and feafon them with pep¬ per, fait, and a blade or two of mace. When thefe are all pounded to a pade, add to them fome frefh mufh- rooms. Then raife the cruft for the pie, and cover the bottom of it with the feafoning; then lay in the par¬ tridges, but no fluffing in them; put the remainder of the feafoning about the ddes and between the partridges; then drew over them fome pepper and fait, and a little mace ; fome dtalots, fome frefh mufhrooms, and. a little bacon, beat fine in a mortar. Lay a layer of it over the partridges, and fome thin dices of bacon. Put on the lid. It will take two hours and a half baking. When it is done, take off the lid and the dices of bacon, and fcum off the fat. Put in a pint of rich veal gravy, and fqueeze in the juice of an orange. Partridge Pie to be eaten cold. TRUSS and beat the breads of fix or eight young partridges very flat; finge and broil them upon a dove over a very clear charcoal fire. When they are cold, lard them; beat fome bacon in a mortar, and mix it with the livers fcalded and bruifed. Put fome of this into the partridges. Then make a feafoning with fome fweet herbs, pepper, fait, nutmeg, mace, and fome le¬ mon-peel fhred very fine. Make a raifed cruft for the pie, and lay upon it a little of the duffing of the livers of the partridges ; over that a little of the feafoning, and then lay in the partridges; drew fome of the feafoning over them, then put among them fome bits of butter, 8 and 222 PIES* and a little bacon cut very fine, with a few leaVes of fweet bafil,. two or three bay leaves, and a few frefh truf¬ fles. Lay thefe amongft the partridges, and over them a few thin flices of bacon. Put on the lid, and fend it to the oven. It will take three hours baking, after which it muft: Hand to be cold. A Woodcock Pie to be eaten cold. THE woodcock and partridge pie are made nearly alike, only the entrails are made ufe of. When the woodcocks are picked, put the entrails by, and trufs them • as for roafting. Make the breaft-bone flat, and broil them over l'ome clear charcoal. When they are cold, lard them all over then pound fome bacon in a marble mortar, mix it with the livers of the woodcocks, which aifo bruife, with two or three leaves of fweet bafil. Cut the entrails very fmall, and mix them with the other feafoning. Raife the pie, lay at the bottom fome of the fluffing, and put the reft into the birds, putting between them fome pounded bacon and freffi butter mixed to¬ gether, with a very little mace, pepper, and fait. When the pie is almoft filled, take a cutlet, cut quite round a fillet of veal, and over that fome flices of bacon cut very thin. Then put on the lid. It fhould ftand three or four hours, according to the quantity of birds, and when it comes out of the oven, fet it to cool. . Savory Patties. TAKE a quarter of a pound of beef fuet, and a pound of the inlide of a cold loin of veal, or the fame quantity of cold fowl that has been either boiled or roaft- ed, and chop them as fmall as poffible, with fix or eight fprigs of parfiey. Seafon them with pepper and fait, and half a nutmeg finely grated. Put them into a tof- fing-pan with half a pint of veal gravy. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, and two fpoonfuls of cream. Then ffiake them over the fire two minutes, and fill your patties. Your patties muft be made in this manner. Raife them of an oval form, and bake them as for cuftards. Cut fome long narrow bits of pafte, and bake them on a dufting-box, but not to go round, they being PIES. .223 being for handles. Fill your patties when quite hot with the meat, and fet on your handles acrofs the patties, when they will look like bafkets, it you have nicely pinched the walls of the patties when you railed them. Five of them will be a dilh. Chejhire Pork Pie. SKIN a loin of pork, and cut it into freaks. Sea- ion it with pepper, fait, and nutmeg, and make a good cruft. Put into your dilh a layer of pork, then a layer of pippins pared and cored, and fugar fuindent to Fveeten it. Then place another layer of pork, and put in half a pint of white wine. Then lay fome butter on the top, and clofe your pie. You mult put in a pint of white wine, if your pie be large. French Pie. PUT three quarters of a pound of butter to two pounds of flour, and make it into a pafte, and raife the walls of the pie. Then roll out fome palte thin as for a lid, and cut it into vine leaves, or the figures of any moulds you have. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and rub the outfide of the walls of the pie with it, and lay the vine leaves or other figures round the walls, and rub them over with the eggs. Fill the pie with the bones of the meat, to keep the fleam in, that the cruft may¬ be well foaked; for it muft have no lid on when it goes to table. Then take a calf’s head, walk and clean it well, and boil it half an hour. When it be cold, cut it in thin flices, and put it in a tofting-pan, with three pints of veal gravy, and three fweet-breads cut thin. Let it flew an hour, with half an ounce of morels, and the fame quantity of truffles. Then have ready two calves feet boiled and boned ; cut them into fmall pieces, and put them into your tofting-pan, with a fpoonful of lemon- pickle, one of browning, fome chyan pepper, and a little lalt. When the meat be tender, thicken the gravy a little with butter and flour. Then ftrain it, and put in a few pickled mufhrooms, but frelh ones are preferable, if they be to be had. Put the meat into the pie, out of which you took the bones, and lay the nicelt part at the 4 fop. 22 4 PIES. top. Ilave ready a quarter of a hundred of afoaragus heads, and ftrew them over the top of the pie, having firft poured in all the gravy. Devonjhire Squab Pie. COVER your difh with a good cruft, and put at the bottom of it a layer of diced pippins, and then a layer of mutton fteaks cut from the loin, well feafoned with pepper and fait. Then put another layer of pip¬ pins, peel fome onions and dice them thin, and put a layer of them over the apples. Then put a layer of mutton, and then pippins and onions. Pour in a pint of water, clofe up your pie, and bake it. Apple Pie. HAVING put a good puff pafte cruft round the edge of your difh, pare and quarter your apples, and take out the cores. Then lay a thick row of apples, and throw in half the fugar you intend to put into your pie. Mince a little lemon-peel fine, fpread it over the fug^r and apples, and fqueeze a little lemon over them. Then fcatter a few cloves over it, and lay on the reft of your apples and fugar. Sweeten to your palate, and fqueeze a little more lemon. Boil the peeling of the apples and cores in fome fair water, with a blade of mace, till it has a pleadng tafee. Strain it, and boil the fyrup with a-little fugar, till there be but a fmall quan¬ tity left. Then pour it into your pie, put on your up¬ per cruft, and bake it. If you choofe it, you may put in a little quince or marmalade. In the fame manner you may make a pear pie; but in that you muft omit the quince. You may butter them when they come out , , of the oven, or beat up the yolks of two eggs, and half a pint of cream, with a little nutmeg, fweetened with fugar. Put it over a dow dre, and keep ftirring it till it begins to boil; then take oft' the lid, and pour in the cream. Cut the cruft in little three-corner pieces, and flick them about the pie. , Apple PIES* 225 Apple 'Tart, IT AVIN G fcalded eight or ten large codlins, let them (land till they be cold, and then fkim them. Take the pulp, and beat it as fine as podible with a fpoon. Then mix the yolks of fix eggs and the whites of four. Beat all together very fine, put in grated nutmeg, and fweeten it to your take. Melt fome good frefh butter, and beat it till it be of the confidence of fine thick cream. Then make a puff pade, and cover a tin patty-pan with it; pour in the ingredients, but do not cover it with the pafte. Having baked it a quarter of an hour, flip it out of the patty-pan on a difh, and drew over it fome fugar finely beaten and fifted. Codlin Pie » P UT fome fmall codlins into a clean pan with fpring water, lay vine leaves on them, and cover them with a cloth wrapped round the cover of the pan to keep in the Beam. As foon as they grow foft, peel them, and put them in the fame water with the vine leaves. Hang them a great height over the fire to green, and when you fee them of a fine colour, take them out of the water, 'and put them into a deep difh, with as much powder or loaf fugar as will fweeten them. Make the lid of rich pud’ pade, and bake it. When it comes from the oven, take off the lid, and cut it in little pieces like fippets, and dick them round the infide of the pie with the points upwards. Then make a good cudard in the following manner, and pour it over your pie. Boil a pint of cream with a dick of cinnamon, and fugar enough to make it a little fweet. As foon as it be cold, put in the yolks of four eggs well beaten, fet it on the fire, and keep dirring it till it grow thick; but take care not to let it boil, as that will curdle it. Having poured this in your pie, pare a little lemon thin, cut the peel like draws, and lay it on the top over your codlins. Potatoe Pie. TAKE three pounds of potatoes, boil and peel them. Make a good crud, and lay it in your difh. Put half a 7 - pound ii 6 PIES. pound of butter at the bottom of it, and then lay in your potatoes. Throw over them three tea-fpoonfuls of fait, and a fmall nutmeg grated all over; boil fix eggs hard, chop them fine, and fcatter them over it, as alfo a tea-fpoonful of pepper, and then put in half a pint of white wine. Cover your pie, and bake it half an hour, or till the cruft be enough. Artichoke Pie. H AVI N G boiled twelve artichokes, take off the leaves and chokes, and take the bottoms clear from the ftalks. Make a good puff pafte cruft, and lay a quar¬ ter of a pound of good freflh butter all over the bottom of your pie. Then lay a row of artichokes, drew a little pepper, fait, and beaten mace over them, then another row, and ftrew the reft of your fpice over them. Put in a quarter of a pound more of butter in little bits, take half an ounce of truffles and morels, and boil them in a quarter of a pint of water. Pour the water into the pie, cut the truffles and morels very fmall, and throw them all over the pie. Then have ready twelve eggs boiled hard, of which take only the hard yolks, and lay them all over the pie. Pour in a gill of white'wine, cover your pie, and bake it. When the cruft be done, the pie will be enough. Four large blades of mace, and twelve pepper corns, with a tea-fpoonful of fait, will be fufticient. Onion Pie. PEEL feme onions, and wafh and pare fome po¬ tatoes, and cut them into flices. Alfo pare fome apples, and (lice them. Make a good cruft, cover your difh, and lay a quarter of a pound of butter all over. Take a quarter of an ounce of mace beaten fine, a nutmeg grated, a tea-fpoonful of beaten pepper, and three tea- fpoonfuls of fait. Mix all together, and ftrew ? fome over the butter. Lay a layer of potatoes, a layer of onions, a layer of apples, then a layer of eggs, and fo till you have filled your pie, ftrewing a little of the feafoning between each layer, and a quarter of a pound of butter in bits, with fix fpoonfuls of water. Clofe your pie, 9 and I PIES. 227 and bake it an hour and a half. A pound of potatoes, a pound of onions, a pound of apples, and twelve eggs, will be fufficient. Cherry Tie . HAVING made a good cruft, lay a little of it round the fides of your difh, and throw fugar at the bot¬ tom. Then lay in your fruit, and lome ; fugar at the top. A few red currants put along with the cherries make an agreeable addition. Then put on your lid, and bake it in a (lack oven. A plum pie or goofeberry pie may be made in the fame manner. If you would have the fruit look red, let your pie ftand a good while in the oven after your bread be drawn. A cuftard eats veiy well with a goofeberry pie. * ' • Mince Pie. TAKE a neat’s tongue, and boil it two hours; then fkin it, and chop it as fmall as poffible. Chop very fmall three pounds of beef fuet, the fame quantity of good baking apples, four pounds of currants clean walked, picked and well dried before the fire, a pound of jar raifins ftoned and chopped fmall, and a pound of pow¬ der fugar. Mix them all together with half an ounce of mace, the fame quantity of grated nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the fame quantity of cinnamon, and a pint of French brandy. Make a rich puff pafte, and as you fill up the pie, put in a little candied citron and orange cut in little pieces. Put clofe down in a pot what mincemeat you have to fpare, and cover it up ; but never put any citron or orange to it till you ufe it... Or you may make your pie in this manner, which is by fome confidered as the beft way. Shred three pounds of fuet very fine, and chopped as fmall as poffible. Take two pounds of raifins ftoned, and chopped as fine as pof¬ fible ; two pounds of currants nicely picked, walked, rubbed, and dried at the fire; half a hundred of fine pippins pared, cored, and chopped fmall; half a pound of fine fugar pounded fine; a quarter of an ounce of mace, the fame quantity of cloves, and two large nut¬ megs, all beat fine. Put all together into a great pan, 2 and 228 P I E / S. and mix them well together with half a pint of brandy and the fame quantity of fack. Put it clofe down into a {tone pan, and it will keep good for months. When you make your pies, take a little difh, fomething biggel than a foup-plate, and lay a very thin cruft all over it; then lay a thin layer of meat and then a thin layer ot citron, cut very thin ; then a layer of mince-meat, and a layer of orange-peel cut thin. Put over that a little mince-meat, and fqueeze in the juice of half a fine Se¬ ville orange or 'lemon. Then lay on your cruft, and bake it nicely. Thefe pies eat very well when cold ; and if you make them in little patties, mix your meat and fweetmeats accordingly. If you choofe to have meat in your pies, you may take two pounds of the infide of a furloin of beef boiled, chopped as fine as poflible, and mixed with the reft; or you may parboil a neat’s tongue, and treat it as above directed. Lent Mince Fie. B O IL fix eggs hard, and chop them fine; take twelve pippins pared and chopped fmall; a pound of raifins of the fun, ftoned and chopped fine ; a pound of currants, wafhed, picked, and rubbed clean ; a large fpoonful of fugar beat fine, a quarter of an ounce of mace and cloves beat fine, an ounce of citron, an ounce of candied orange, both beat fine, and a little nutmeg beat fine. Mix all together in a gill of brandy and a gill of fack. Make your cruft good, and bake it in a Hack oven. Squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange at the time you are making your pie. Yorkjhire Chrijhnas Pie. • HAVING made a good {landing cruft, with the wall and bottom very thick, take and bone a turkey, a goofe, a fowl, a partridge, and a pigeon. Seafon them well, and take half an ounce of mace, the fame quan¬ tity of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of black pepper, all beat fine together. Then add two large ipoonfuls of fait, mix all well to¬ gether. Open the fowls all down the back, and bone sirft the pigeon, then the partridge, and cover them. 5 Then PIES. 229 Then proceed in the fame manner with the fowl, goofe, and turkey, which muft be large. Seafon them all well, and then lay them in the cruft, fo that it may look only like a whole turkey. Then have a hare ready cafed, and wiped with a clean cloth. Disjoint the hare into pieces, feafon it, and lay it as clofe as you can, on one fide j and on the other fide put woodcocks, moor-game, and whatever fort of. wild fowl you can get. Seafon them well, and lay them clofe. Put at lead four pounds of butter into the pie, and then lay on your lid, which muft be very thick, and let it be well baked. It mull have a very hot oven, and will take four hours baking at leaft. This cruft will take a buftiel of flour. Shropjhire Pie. CUT two rabbits into pieces, with two pounds of fat pork cut fmall, and feafon both with pepper and fait to your tafte. Then make a good puff pafte cruft, cover your difh with it, and lay in your rabbits. Mix the pork with them; but take the livers of the rabbits, par¬ boil them, and beat them in a mortar, with the fame quantity of fat bacon, a little fweet herbs, and fome oyfters. Seafon with pepper, fait, and nutmeg, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and make it into little balls. Scatter them about your pie, with fome artichoke bot¬ toms cut in dices, and fome cocks-combs, if you have them. Grate a fmall nutmeg over the meat, then pour in half a pint of red wine, and half a pint of water. Clofe your pie, and bake it an hour and a half in a quick but not too fierce oven. Fine Patties. ' TAKE any quantity of either turkey, houfe-lamb, or chicken, and flice it w 7 ith an equal quantity of the fat of lamb, loin of veal, or the infide of a firloin of beef, and a little parfley, thyme, and lemon-peel fhred. Put all into a marble mortar, pound it very fine, and feafon it with fait and white pepper. Make a fine puff pafte, roll it out into thin fquare fheets, and put the force¬ meat in the middle. Cover the pie, clofe it all round, and cut the pafte even. Juft before you put them into 0^3 the PIES. 230 the oven wafh them over with the yolk of an egg, and bake them twenty minutes in a quick oven. Have ready a little white gravy, feafoned with pepper, fait, and a little fhalot, thickened up with a little cream or butter. When the patties come out of the oven, make a hole in the top, and pour in fome gravy; but take care not to put in too much, left it fhould run out at the fides, which will fpoil the appearance of them. Olive Pie. TAKE the thin collops of the beft end of a leg of veal, in quantity proportionate to the fize of your in¬ tended pie. black them with the back of a knife, and feafon them with pepper, fait, cloves, and mace. Wadi over your collops with a bunch of feathers dipped in eggs, and have in readinefs a handful of fweet herbs fhred finall, fuch as thyme, parfiey, and fpinach. Take the yolks of eight hard eggs minced, and a few oyfters parboiled and chopped, and fome beef fuet ftired very fine. Mix thefe together, and ftrew them over your collops. Then fprinkle a little orange flower water over them, and roil the collops up very clofe. Then put your cruft on the difh, lay your collops in it, put but¬ ter on the top, and clofe your pie. When it comes out of the oven, have ready fome hot gravy, with an an¬ chovy diffolved in it, and pour it into the pie. Egg Pie. TAKE a pound of marrow, or beef fuet, twelve eggs boiled hard, and chop them very fine. Seafon them with a little beaten cinnamon and nutmeg ; take a pound of currants clean wafhed and picked, two or three fpoon- fuls of cream, and a little fack and rofe water. Mix all together, and fill the pie with it. When it be baked, ftir in half a pound of frefh butter, and the juice of a lemon. Sweet Egg Pie. COVER your dilhwith a good cruft, and then take twelve eggs boiled hard, cut them into dices, and lay them in your pie. Throw half a pound qf currants, clean PIES. 231 cl£an wafried and picked, all over your eggs. Then beat up four eggs well, mixed with half a pint of white wine, grate in a fmall nutmeg, and make it pretty fvveet with fugar. Remember to lay a quarter of a pound of butter between the eggs, then pour in your wine and eggs, and cover your pie. Bake it till the cruft be done, which will be in about half an hour. Orange or Lemon 'Tarts. RUB fix large lemons well with fait, and put them into water, with a handful of fait in it, for two davs. Then change them every day into frefh water, without fait, for a fortnight. Then boil them for two or three hours till they be tender ; cut them into half-quarters, - and then cut them three-corner ways, as thin as poftible. Take fix pippins pared, cored, and quartered, and a pint of water. Let them boil till the pippins break, put the liquor to your orange or lemon, half the pulp of the pippins well broken, and a pound of fugar. Boil thefe together a quarter of an hour, then put it in,o a gallipot, and fqueeze into it an orange. If it be a lemon tart, fqueeze a lemon. Two fpoonfuls are enough for a tart. Put very fine puff pafte, and very thin, into your patti- pans, which muft be fmall and fhallow. Juft before you put your tarts into the oven, with a feather or brufh rub them over with melted butter, and then fift double- refined fugar over them, which will form a pretty icing. Tart de Mot. LAY round your difn a puff pafte, and then a layer of bi'fcuit; then a layer of butter and marrow, another of all forts of fweetmeats, or as many as you have, and. thus proceed till your dilh be full. Then boil a quart of cream, and thicken it with four eggs, and put in a fpoonful of orange flower water. Sweeten it with fugar to your palate, and pour it over the whole. Half an hour will bake it. Skirret Pie. BOIL your fkirrets tender, peel and flice them, and fill your pie with them. To half a pint of cream take 0^4 the PIES. 2J2 the yolk of an egg, and beat it fine. Put to it a little grated nutmeg, a little beaten mace, and a little fait. Beat all well together, with a quarter of a pound of frefh butter rpeltedj and pour in as much as your difh will hold. Put on the top-cruft, and bake it half an hour. If you cannot get cream, you may put in fome milk ; and you may add yolks of eggs boiled hard. About two pounds of the root will be fufficient. 'Turbot Pie, WASH and parboil the turbot, and feafon it with a little pepper, fait, cloves, mace, nutmeg, and fweet herbs cut fine. When the pafte is made, lay in the turbot, with fome yolks of eggs boiled hard, a whole onion, w'hich muft be taken out when the pie is baked. Lay a great deal of frefh butter on the top, and clofe ir up. It is good cold or hot, Tench Pie. LAY a layer of butter at the bottom of the difh, then grate in fome nutmeg, with pepper, fait, and mace. Lay in the tench, cover them with fome butter, and pour in fome red wine and a little water. Then put on die lid, and when it comes from the oven, pour in melted butter, with fome gravy in it. Trout Pie. LARD a brace of trout with eels; raife the cruft, and lay a layer of frefh butter at the bottom. Then make a forced meat of trout, mufhrooms, truffles, mo- rells, chives, and frefh butter. Seafon them with fait, pepper, and fpice ; mix thefe up with the yolks of two eggs; fluff the trout with this forced meat, lay them in the pie, cover them with butter, put on the lid, and fend it to the oven. Have fome good fifh* gravy ready to pour into the pie when it is baked. Eel Pie. H AVI N G fkinqed and wafhed your eels very clean, cut them in pieces an inch and a half long. Seafon them with pepper, fait, and a little dried fage rubbed fmail. PIES, ' 2 33 frna'ii, and raife your pies about the fize of the infide of a plate. Fill them with eels, and lay a lid over them. Bake them well in a quick oven. Carp Pie * SCALE, gut, and walk a large carp clean. Take an eel, and boil it till it be almoft tender; pick off all the meat, and mince it fine, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a few fweet herbs, a lemon-peel cut fine, a little pepper, fait, and grated nutmeg j an an¬ chovy, half a pint of oyfters parboiled and chopped fine, and the yolks of three hard eggs cut lmalk Roll it up with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fill the belly of the carp. Make a good cruft, cover the difh, and lay in your carp. Save the liquor you boiled your eels in, and put into it the eel bones, and boil them with a little mace, whole pepper, an onion, fome fweet herbs, and an anchovy. Boil it till it be reduced to about half a pint, then ftrain it, and add to it abdut a quarter of a pint of white wine, and a piece of butter about the fize of a hen’s egg mixed in a very little flour. Boil it up. and pour it into your pie. Put on the lid, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. If there be any forcemeat left after filling the belly of your carp, make balls of it, and put it into the pie. If you have not liquor enough, boil a few fmall eels for that purpofe. Salt-fijh Pie. LAY a fide of falt-fifh in water all night, and next morning put it over the fire in a pan of water till it be tender. Drain it, and lay it on the dreffer; take off all the fkin, and pick the meat clean from the bones, and mince it fmall. Take the crumb of two French rolls cut in flices, and boil it up with a quart of new milk. Break your bread very fine with a lpoon, put it to your minced falt-fifh, with a pound of melted but¬ ter, two fpoonfuls of minced parfley, half a nutmeg grated, a little beaten pepper, and three tea-lpoonfuls of muftard. Mix all well together, make a good cruft, lay it all over your difh, and cover it up. Bake it an hour. PIES. 234 Seal Pie. COVER your difh with a good cruft, boil two pounds of eels till they be tender, and pick all the fiefn clean from the bones. Throw the bones into the liquor you boil the eels in, with a little mace and fait, till it be very good, and reduced to a quarter of a pint, and then ftrain it. In the mean time, cut the flefh of your eel fine, with a little lemon-peel flared fine, a little fait, pepper, and nutmeg, a few crumbs of bread, chopped parfiey, and an anchovy. Melt a quarter of a pound of butter, and mix with it, and then lay it in the difh. Cut the fltlb off a pair of large foals, or three pair of very fmall ones, clean from the bones and fins. Lay it on the forcemeat, and pour in the broth qf the eels you boiled. Put on the lid of the pie, and bake it. You Ihould boil the bones of the foals with the eel bones, to make it good; but if you boil the foal bones with one or two little eels, without the forcemeat, your pie will be very good. You may treat a turbot in like manner. Flounder Pie. HAVING gutted your flounders, wafh them clean, and dry them in a cloth. Juft boil them, cut off the meat clean from the bones, lay a good cruft over the difh, and lay a little frefh butter at the bottom, and on that the fifh. Seafon with pepper and fait to your rr ind. Boil the bones in the water the fifh was boiled in, with a little bit of horfe-radifb, a little parfley, a very little bit of lemon-peel, and a cruft of bread. Boil it till there be juft enough liquor for the pie, then ftrain it, and put it into your pie. Put on the top-cruft, and bake it. Herring Pie. HAVING fealed, gutted, and walked your her¬ rings clean, cut off their heads, fins, and tails. Make a good cruft, cover your difh, and leafon your herrings with beaten mace, pepper and fait. Put a little butter in the bottom of your difh, and then a row of herrings. Pare fome apples, and cut them into thin dices over the difh. Then peel fome onions, and cut them in the fame ~ man- I PIES. *35 planner. Lay a little butter on the top, put in a little water 1 , lay on the lid, and bake it well. / Salmon Pie. H AVIN G made a good cruft, cleanfe a piece of falmon well, feafon it with fait, mace, and nutmeg, lay a piece of butter at the bottom of the difh, and lay your falmon in. Melt butter according to your pie. Take a lobfter, boil it, pick out all the flelh, chop it fmall, bruife the body, and mix it well with the butter, which muft be very good. Pour it over your falmon, put on the lid, and bake it well. Lobjter Pie. BOIL two or three lobfters, take the meat out of their tails whole, and cut them in four pieces long ways. Take out all the fpawn, and the meat of the daws 3 beat it well in a mortar, and feafon it with pepper, fait, two fpoonfuls of vinegar, and a little anchovy liquor. Melt half a pound of frefh butter, and ftir all together, with the crumbs of an halfpenny roll rubbed through a fine cullender, and the yolks of two eggs. Put a fine puff pafte over your difh, lay in your tails, and the reft of the meat over them. Put on your cover, and bake it in a flow oven. MuJJel Pie. H AVIN G laid a good cruft all over your difh, wafli your muffels clean in feveral waters 3 then put them into a deep ftewpan, cover them, and let them flew till they open. Then pick them out, and fee there be no crabs under the tongue. Put them into a faucepan, with,two or three blades of mace, ({train liquor juft enough to cover them) a good piece of butter, and a few crumbs of bread. Stew them a few minutes, fill your pie, put on the lid, and bake it half an hour. Always let your fifth be cold, before you put on the lid, or it will fpoil the cruft. You may make oyfter pie after the fame manner. C H A P. PANCAKES. CHAP. XVII. PANCAKES and FRITTERS. i Cream Pancakes . M I X the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, two ounces of fugar, and a little beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. Rujp your pan with lard, and fry them as thin as poflible. Grate fugar over them. Milk Pancakes . PUT fix or eight eggs, leaving out half the whites, into a quart of milk, and mix them well till you/ batter be of a fine thicknefs. Obferve to mix your flour firft with a little milk, then add the reft by degrees. Put in two fpoonfuls of beaten ginger, a glals of brandy, and a little fait. Stir all together, and make your ftew- pan very clean. Put in a piece of butter of the fize of of a walnut, and then put in a ladleful of batter, which will make a pancake, moving the pan round, fo that the batter may be every where even alike in the pan; and when you think that fide be enough, tofs it, or turn it cleverly without breaking it. When it be done, lay it in a difh before the fire, and proceed to do the reft in like manner. Strew a little fugar over them when you fend them to table, and take care that they be dry. Rice Pancakes. TAKE three fpoonfuls of flour of rice, and a quart of cfeam. Set it on a flow fire, and keep ftirring it till it be as thick as pap. Pour into it half a pound of but¬ ter, and a nutmeg grated. Then pour it into an earthen pan, and when it be cold, ftir in three or four fpoonfuls of flour, a little fait, fome fugar, and nine eggs well beaten. Mix all well together, and fry them nicely. When cream is not to be had, you muft ufe new milk, and a fpoonful more of the flour of rice. Cujlard H PANCAKES. ^ 237 Cujlard Fritters. B E AT the yolks of eight eggs, with one fpoonfui of flour, half a nutmeg, a little fait, and brandy; add a pint of cream; fweeten it, and bake it in a fmall difh. When cold, cut it into quarters; dip them in batter made of half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little flour, and a little ginger grated. Fry them a light brown, in good lard or dripping. Grate fugar over them, and ferve them up hot. N t Common Fritters. GET the largeft baking apples you can, pare them, and take out the core with an apple-fcraper. Cut them in round flices, and dip them in batter made thus. Take half a pint of ale and two eggs, and beat in as much flour as will make it rather thicker than a common pud¬ ding, with nutmeg and fugar to your tafte. Let it hand three or four minutes to rife. Having dipped your apple into this batter, fry them crilp, and ferve them up with fugar grated over them, and wine fauce in a boat. .X Fine Fritters. TAKE feme of the fineft flour, and dry it well be¬ fore the fire. Mix it with a quart of new milk, but take care not to make it too thick. Put to it fix or eight eggs, a little nutmeg, mace, and lalt, and a quarter of a pint of fack or ale, or a glafs of brandy. Beat them well together, then make them pretty thick with pip¬ pins, and fry them dry. IVhite Fritters. WASH fome rice in five or fix different waters, and dry it well before the fire. Then beat it very fine in a mortar, and fife it through a lawn fieve. You mufit have at lead an ounce of it. Then put it into a fauce- pan, juft w r et it with milk, and when it be well incor¬ porated with it, add to it another pint of milk. Set the whole over a ftove, or a very flow fire, and take care to keep it always moving. Put in a little ginger, and fome candied lemon-peel grated. Keep it over the fire till PANCAKES: *j8 till it be almoft come to the thicknefs of a fine pafte, flour a peal, pour it on it, and fpread it abroad with a rolling-pin. When it be quite cold, cut it into little models, taking care that they do not flick one to the other. Flour your hands, roll up your fritters hand- fomely, and fry them. When you ferve them up, fugar them, and pour over them a little* orange flower water. Thefe fritters make a very pretty fide-difh, and are a very handfome garnifh for a fine difh at an elegant table. t \ - A Quire of Paper. TAKE three fpoonfuls of fine flour, a pint of cream, fix eggs, three fpoonfuls of fack, one of orange flower water, a little fugar, half a nutmeg grated, and half a pound of melted butter almoft cold. Mix all well to¬ gether, and butter the pan for the firft pancake. Let them run as thin as poflible, and when they be juft co¬ loured, they will be enough. In this manner all the fine pancakes fhould be fried. Almond Fraze. STEEP a pound of Jordan almonds blanched in a pint of cream, ten yolks of eggs, and four whites. Then take out the almonds, and pound them fine in a mor¬ tar j mix them again in the cream and eggs, and put in fome fugar and grated white bread. Stir them all together, put fome frefh butter into the pan, and as foon as it be hot, pour in the batter, ftirring it in the pan till it be of a good thicknefs. When ‘t be enough, turn it into a difh, and throw fugar over it. Fritters RcyaL PUT a quart of new milk into a faucepan, and when it begins to boil, pour in a pint of fack. Then take it off, let it (land five or fix minutes, fkim oft' the curd, and put it into a bafon. Beat it up well with fix eggs, and feafon it with nutmeg. Then beat it with a whifk, add flour fufficient to give it the ufual thicknefs of bat¬ ter, put in fome fugar, and fry them quick. Currant PANCAKES; m Currant Fritters without Eggs . TAKE half a pint of ale that is not hitter., and Fir into it flour to make it pretty thick, with a few cur¬ rants. Beat this up quick; have the lard boiling; throw in a large fpoonful at a time. Rajpberry Fritters. GRATE the crumb of a French roll, or two Na¬ ples bifcuits; put to either a pint of boiling cream. When this is cold, add to it the-yolks of four eggs well beaten. Beat all well together with fome rafpberry juice ; drop them into a pan of boiling lard, in very fmali Quantities. Stick them with blanched almonds diced. * Fanjey Fritters. POUR a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a penny loaf grated. When cold, add a fpoonful of brandy, fugar to the tafte, the rind of half a lemon, the yolks of four eggs, and fpinach and tanfey juice to colour it. Mix this over the fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter, till thick. Let it Band near three hours, and drop it, a fpoonful to a fritter, into boiling lard. Rice Fritters. BOIL a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it be pretty thick ; then mix it with a pint of cream, four eggs, fome fugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg; fix ounces of currants walked and picked, a little fait, and as much flour as will make it a thick batter. Fry them in little cakes in boiling lard. Serve them with white fugar and butter. Carrot Fritters . TAKE two or'three boiled carrots, and beat them with a fpoon till they are a fmooth pulp. Put to every carrot two or three eggs; a little nutmeg; to three car¬ rots put a handful of flour; wet them with cream, milk,' or fack, and add to them as much fugar as will fweeten them. Beat them well half an hour, and fry them in boiling lard. Squeeze over them a Seville orange, and Brake fome fine fugar over them. German PANCAKES. £40 German Fritters. /, . TAKE fome well-tailed crifp apples, pare, quarter, and core them; take the core quite out, and cut -them into round pieces. Put into a ftewpan a quarter of a pint of French brandy, a table lpoonful of fine fugar pounded, and a little cinnamon. Put the apples into this liquor, and fet them over a very gentle fire, ftirring them often, but not to break them. Set on a ftewpan with fome lard. When it boils drain the apples, dip them in fome fine flour, and put them into the pan : they will be brown and very good. Strew fome fugar over a difh, and fet it on the fire ; lay in “.he fritters, ilrew a little fugar over them, and glaze them over with a red-hot falamanderj Bilboquet Fritters. BREAK five eggs into two handfuls of fine flour, and put milk enough to make it work well together. Then put in fome fait, and work it again. When it is well made, put in a tea-fpoonful of powder of cinna¬ mon, the fame quantity of lemon-peel grated, and half an ounce of candied citron cut very fmall with a pen¬ knife. Put on a ftewpan, rub it over with butter, and put in the pafte. Set it over a very gentle fire on a ftove, - and let it be done very gently, without flicking to the bottom or fides of the pan. When it is in a manner baked, take it out, and lay it on a difh. Set on a ftew¬ pan with a large quantity of lard ; when it boils, cut the pafte the fize of a finger, and then cut it acrofs at each end, which will rife and be hollow, and have a very good effefl. Put them into the boiling lard ; but great care mu ft be taken in frying them, as they rife fo much. When they are done, fift fome fugar on a warm difh, lay on the fritters, and fift fome more fugar over them. Point de Jour Fritters. TAKE a glafs of mountain, and a large fpoonful of brandy. Mix two handfuls of flour with fome warm milk, and the brandy and wine, and work it into a pafte. Beat PANCAKES. 241 Beat up the whites of four eggs to a froth, and mix them with the barter. Then add to them half an ounce of candied citron peel, half an ounce of frefh lemon- peel grated, fome fait, and fugar. Let it be all well beat up together ; then fet on a fmall deep ftewpan, with a good quantity of hog’s lard; and, when it is boiling hot, drop in fome of the batter through a tin funnel made on purpofe, with a large body and three pipes. Hold the funnel over the boiling lard, and pour the batter through it with a ladle. It mud: be kept mov¬ ing over the pan till all is run out, and this, from the three ftreams, fhapes the fritters. When the batter is all out, turn the fritters, for they are foon brown. Then put one at a time upon a rolling-pin, and they will be the fhape of a rounded leaf, which is the proper fhape of thefe fritters. Great nicety is required in making them ; but they are an elegant difh. When the firft is made, it fhould be a pattern for the reft. If it be too thick, pour in the lefs batter for the next; and, if too thin, a little more. Chicken Fritters . PUT on a ftewpan with fome new milk, and as much flour of rice as will be neceffary to make it of a tolerable thicknefs. Beat three or four eggs, the yolks ■ and whites together, and mix them well with the rice and milk. Add to them a pint of rich cream, fet it over a ftove, and ftir it well. Put in fome powdered fugar, fome candied lemon-peel cut fmall, and fome frefh-grated lemon peel cut very fmall. Then take all the white meat from a roafted chicken, pull it into fmall flhreds, put it to the reft of the ingredients, and ftir it all together. Then take it off, and it will be a very rich pafte. Roll it out,' cut it into fmall fritters, and fry them in boiling lard. Strew the bottom of the difh with fugar finely powdered. Put in the fritters, and fhake fome fugar over them. Hajiy Fritters » PUT fome butter into a ftewpan, and let it heat. Take half a pint of good ale, and ftir into it by degrees R a little / PANCAKES. a little flour. Put in a few currants, or chopped apples* beat them up quick, and drop a large fpoonful at a time all over the pan. Take care that they do not flick to¬ gether, turn them with an egg-flice, and when they be of a fine brown, lay them on a difii, and throw fome fugar over them. You may cut an orange into quar¬ ters for garnifn. Apple Fritters. H AVIN G beat the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four well together, ftrain them into a pan. Then take a quart of cream, and make it as hot as you can bear your finger in. Then put to it a quarter of a pint of fack, three quarters of a pint of ale, and make a poflfet of it. When it be cool, put to it your eggs, ■beating it well together. Then put in fait, ginger, nut¬ meg, and flour, to your liking. Having made your batter pretty thick, put in pippins diced or pared, and fry them quick in a good deal of batter. Curd Fritters . TAKE a handful of curds and a handful of flour, and ten eggs well beaten and drained ; fome fugar, cloves, mace, and nutmeg beaten, and a little faflron. Stir all well together, and fry them quick, and of a fine light brown. G Skifret Fritters. T O a pint of pulp of fkirrets acid a fpoonful of flour, the yolks of four eggs, fugar and fpice. Make them into a thick batter, and fry them quick. Syringed Fritters. T O a pint of water add a piece of butter of the fize of an egg, with fome lemon-peel, green if you can get it, rafped preferved lemon-peel, and crifped crange flowers. Put all together in a ftewpan over the fire, and, when boiling, throw in fome fine flour. Keep itftirring, put more flour in by degrees, till your batter be thick enough, and then take it off the Are. Take an ounce of fweet almonds, four bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar. Stir in two Maple,, bifeuits crumbled, and two PANCAKES. 24 3 two eggs beaten. Stir all together, and put in more eggs till your batter be thin enough to be fyringed. Fill your fyringe, your batter being hot, then fyringe your fritters in it, to make it of a true-lover’s-knot, and beine; well coloured, ferve them up for a fide-difh. At ano¬ ther time, you may rub a Fleet of paper with butter, over which you may fyringe your fritters, and make them of what fhape you pleafe. Your butter being hot, turn the paper upfide down over it, and your fritters will eafily drop off. When fried, ftrew them with fugar, and glaze them. v Vine-leaf Fritters. FI AVI N G procured fome of the fmalieft vine-leaves you can get, and having cut off the great ftalks, put them into a difh with fome French brandy, green lemon rafped, and fome fugar. Take a good handful of fine flour, mixed with white wine or ale. Let your batter be hot, and with a fpoon drop it in, and take great care that they do not flick to each other. On each fritter lay a leaf, then fry them quick, and ftrew fugar over them. Glaze them with a red-hot (hovel. With all frit¬ ters, made with milk and eggs, you fhould have beaten cinnamon and fugar in a faucer, and either fqueeze an orange over it, or pour-a glafs of white wine, and fo throw fugar all over the difh. They fhould be fried in a good deal of fat, of which beef dripping or hog’s lard is the beft. Clary Fritters. CUT off the ftalks of your clary leaves, and dip them one by one in a batter made with milk and flour. Your batter being hot, fry them quick. t t P A.R T [ 2 44 ] PART II. PICKLING, COLLARING, and POTTING. - ■ ■ ..[■■i 11i n i n n Tr - ii -— I ' “ . ' -> I CHAP. I. ' PICKLING. Preliminary Hints and Objervaticns. I T is an efifential point with the houfe-keeper, to take care never to be without pickles of her own prepar¬ ing, that fhe may not be obliged to purchafe them at fhops, where they are often badly prepared, and made to pleafe the eye by the ufe of pernicious ingredients. It is too common a practice, to make ufe of brafs utenfils, in order to give the pickles a fine green ; but the fame purpofe might be effected by heating the liquor, and keeping it in a proper degree of warmth on the hearth or the chimney corner. By this method you would avoid the pernicious confequence of the ufe of brafs utenfils, or of verdipreafe of anv kind, which are in their nature a very powerful poifon. Stone jars are undoubtedly the bell for keeping all forts of pickles; for, though they be expenfive on the firft purchafe, yet they will, in the end, be found much cheaper than earthen veffels, through which, it has been found by experience, fait and vinegar will penetrate, efpecially when put in hot. When you take any pickle out of your' jars, be lure never to do it with your fingers, as that will fpoil your pickle; but always make ufe of a fpoon for that purpofe. We (hall now proceed to give an account of the different kinds of fpices made ufe of in pickling, as well as of vinegars, &c. See, Pepper, P I C K L ' I N G. •249 Pepper. THERE are three kinds of pepper, the black, the white, and the long. The Chyan and Jamaica pepper are not of that kind, though called by that name. There are two forts of white pepper; one is made by fteeping black pepper in fea-water, and then taking off the fkin ; the other is the fruit of a different plant, but very like the black pepper. Thefe are both long trailing plants ; they have jointed Italics, and are fmall. The fruit fol¬ lows them. Iris firft green, then reddifh, and of a deep purple when ripe, but grows black and wrinkled when dreffing. Pepper is gathered in November, and the white is larger and milder than the black. It comes from the Eaft Indies. That which is largeft, and molt free from duff, is the beft. The long pepper is of the fame nature, but milder. Ginger . T El IS is a root, vfftich grows in the Eaft Indies, and in many parts of America. The plant, which fprings from it, has leaves like flags. It bears fmall flowers. The belt comes from Calcutta, but very good from many other places. It is dug up in autumn, then waffl¬ ed, and fpread on thin hurdles, fupported on treffels. That which is found, and of the deepeft yellow, is beft. Cloves. TrIE Dutch have monopolized this fpice almoft en¬ tirely to themlelves. They have deftroyed them in the Molucca Hands, and have propagated them in the Hand of Ternate. They are the fruit of a large beautiful tree, and are gathered before they are ripe. The tree has leaves like the bay. The clove is firft green, and as foon as it begins to turn a little brown, it is gathered, long before it is ripe. What are left upon the trees grow very large, and are called the mother of cloves. The fmall ones are gathered in the middle of the day, and laid in a ihady and airy place to dry. R 3 Nutmegs I PICKLING. 246 Nutmegs and Mace. THESE two fpices are produced from the fame tree, which is large and beautiful. The leaves are long, and of a fine green, the flowers are like an apple bloffonp, the fruit is round, and of the fize of a middling peach, which it very much refembles. The nutmeg is the ker¬ nel, and is covered by the mace. The fruit is cut open, the mace taken off, and that and the nutmeg* are dried in a cool airy place. Some diftinguifh the nutmeg into male and female. The common nutmeg is the female; the other is longer, and lefs valuable. They are pro¬ duced from the fame tree, which is not unlike our pear- tree in its manner of growing. Its leaves, whether green or dried, have, when bruifed, a very agreeable fmell. It grows in the Eafc Indies. The beft mace is loft, oily, and fragrant. The nutmeg fhould be found, hard, and heavy, of a pale colour on the outfide, and finely marbled within. The Dutch have monopolized thefe and almoft all other fpices. Cinnamon. THIS fpice is produced in the ifland of Ceylon. It is the- inner bark of a beautiful tree. The leaves are like thofe of'a bay-tree, of a fine fpicey tafte, and molt agreeable fmell. The bark, when frefh, has little tafte; but its flavour grows higher as it dries. The fineft is in fmall quills, of a bright colour, a ftrong fmell, and a jfharo biting tafte. Sometimes they extraft an oil from it before it is brought over ; but it is then very infipid, and Gaffia bark is often among it. The tafte is the b£ft way to judge of its excellence, that which has loft its oil, being lefs fharp and quick. After holding the Caftia fome time in the mouth, it turns to a k,ind of jelly- Ail-jpice. THIS fpice is called Jamaica pepper from the place of its growth ; and all-fpice, from its having the tafte of all other /pices. It-is the fruit of a large tree, the leaves are broad, the flowers are fmall, and grows in bunches; PICKLING. 247 launches; after which comes the fruit, which is gathered when ripe, and dried in the fhade. When it is good, it is large, full, and of a good colour. It* is a very good fpice for common ufe, but not equal to the others in flavour. TurmerkL THIS Is the root of a plant of an oblong figure. It is generally in pieces from half an inch to an inch in length3 and at the utmofl furface, the thicknefs of a man’s little finger. It is very heavy, hard to break, and not eafily cut with a knife. The outfide is of a fine whitifh grey, with a tinge of faint yellow ; but when it is broken, the infide is* of a fine yellow, if the root be frefh. It grows redder by keeping, till at lad it will be¬ come of the colour of faffron in the cake. Thrown into water, it loon gives it a fine yellow tinge. It is eafily powdered in a mortar, and, according to its dif¬ ferent age, makes a yellow, an orange, or reddifh pow¬ der. It has a kind of aromatic fmell, fomething like ginger .; the tade is acrid, difagreeable, and bitter. It is brought from the Eaft Indies, where they ufe it in fauces and foods. Sugar. THIS is well known to be the produ6t chiefly of the Wed Indies. It is a kind of reed, but is called a fugar- cane. The reed is of the nature of ours, only much larger. The fugar is made of its juice boiled up to a confidence. At fird it is very coarfe and brown, but is refined, after it is brought over, by our fu gar-bakers. Oil. THERE are various forts of oil, but one fort only is ufed for the table, which is that produced by the olive. Thofe which we eat, are gathered before they are ripe 3 but when the oil is to be prefled from them, they are left upon the trees till full ripe, and prefled when they are almoA rotten. We have oil from mod of the warm parts of Europe, but it is different in purity and value, according to the degree of care taken in the making ot * it. Italian oil is generally the fined 3 ami}thafi$F Lucca R 4 A and PICKLING. 248 and Florence is particularly efteemed, though they make very good oil in France. In the choice of oil, we are to judge by the lmell and tafte 4 for it fhould be free from both. In general, any fmell or tafte is a fault. Oil fhould be quite pure and infipid, its only quality being foftnefs. In cold weather, oil congeals, and its purity may be gueffed at by its appearance; for the finer the oil, the fmaller are the lumps. Ccmmcn Vinegar. PUT as many pounds of coarfe Lifbon fugar as you take gallons of water; boil it, and keep fkimming it as long as any feum will rife. Then put it into tubs, and when it be as cold as beer to work, toaft a large piece of bread, and rub it over wifh yeft. Let it work twen¬ ty-four hours; then have ready a veffel, iron hooped and well painted, fixed in a place where the fun has full power, and fix it lb as not to have any occafion to move it. When you draw it off, fill your veffels, and lay a tile on the bung-hole to keep the buft out. Make it in March, and it will be fit to ufe in June or July. Then draw it off into little ftone bottles, let it ftand till you want to ufe it, and it will never be foul any more; but fhould you find it not four enough, let it ftand a month longer before you draw it off. Elder -Flower Vinegar. PUT two gallons of ftrong ale allegar to a peck of the peeps of eider flowers, and fo in proportion for any greater quantity you choofe to make. Set it in the fun in a ftone jar for a. fortnight, and then filter it through a flannel bag. When you draw it off, put it into fmall bottles, in which it will preferve its flavour better than in large ones, When you mix the flowers and the a 1 - legar together, be careful you do not drop any of the ftalks among the peeps. Goejblerry Vinegar. CRUSH with your hands in a tub the ripeft goofe- berries you can get, and to every peck of’ goofeberries put two gallons of water, Mix them well together, and let PICKLING. 249 t let them work for three weeks. Stir them np three or four times a day, then (train the liquor through a hair fieve, and put to every gallon a pound of brown -fugar, a pound of treacle, a fpoonful of frefh barm, and let it work three or four days in the fame tub well walked. Run it into iron-hooped barrels, let it Hand twelve months, and then draw it into bottles for ufe. This is far fupe- rior to white-wine vinegar. ‘Tarragon Vinegar. STRIP off the leaves of tarragon juft as it is going into bloom, and to every pound of leaves put a gallon of ftrong white-wine vinegar in a (tone jug, to ferment for a fortnight. Then run it through a flannel bag, and to every four gallons of vinegar put half an ounce of ifinglafs diflfolved in cyder. Mix it well, put it into large bottles, and let it Hand a month to fine. Then rack it off into pint bottles, and ufe it as you want it. Sugar Vinegar. T O fix gallons of water put nine pounds of brown fugar, and fo in proportion for any greater quantity. Boil for a quarter of an hour, and put it lukewarm into a tub. Put to it a pint of new barm, and let it work four or five days. Stir it up three or four times a day, then turn it into a clean iron-hooped barrel, and fet it in the fun. If you make it in February, it will be fit for ufe in Auguft. It may be ufed for moll forts of pickles, except mulhrooms and walnuts. This is nearly the fame as that we have mentioned under the title of Common Vinegar. Walnut Catchup. HAVING put what quantity of walnuts you pleafe into jars, cover them with cold ftrong ale allegar, and tie them clofe for twelve months. Then take out the walnuts from the allegar, and to every gallon of the li¬ quor put two heads of garlick, half a pound of ancho¬ vies, a quart of red wine, and of mace, cloves, long, black, and Jamaica pepper, and ginger, an ounce each. Boil them all together till the liquor be reduced to half the PICKLING. *50 the quantity, and the next day bottle it for life. It will be good in fifh fauce, or Hewed beef; and one good quality of it is, that the longer it be kept, the better it wall be ; for it has been proved, by experience, that fome of it, after having been kept five years, was bet¬ ter than when firft made. Another method of making- walnut catchup is thus : Take green walnuts before the fhell be formed, and grind them in a crab-mill, or pound them in a marble mortar. Squeeze out the juice through a coarfe cloth, and put to every gallon of juice a pound of anchovies, the fame quantity of bay fait, four ounces of Jamaica pepper, two of long, and two of black pepper; of mace, cloves, and ginger, each an ounce, and a Hick of horfe-radifh. Boil all together till reduced to half the quantity, and put it into a pot. When it be cold, bottle it, and in three months it will be fit for ufe. Mufuroofn Catchup. CRUS PI with your hands the full-grown flaps of mufhrooms, and into every peck of them throw a hand¬ ful of fait. Let them Hand all night, and the next day put them into ftewpans. Set them in a quick oven for twelve hours, and then ftrain them through a hair fieve. To every gallon of liquor, put of cloves, Jamaica, black pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, and half a pound of common fait. .Set it on a flow fire, and let it boil till half the liquor be wafted away. Then put it in a clean pot, and bottle it for ufe as foon as it be quite cold. Muforoom Powder. H AVI N G procured the largeft and thickeft buttons you can get, peel them, and cut off the root end, but do not wafh them. Spread them feparately on pewter difhes, and let them in a flow oven to dry. Let the liquor dry up into the mufhrooms, as that will -make the powder much ftronger, and let them continue in the oven till you find they will powder. I 1 hen beat them in a marble mortar, and Qft them through a fine fieve, with a little chyan pepper, and pounded mace. Keep •it in a dry clofet, well bottled. Lemon I I PICKLING. 255 t Lemon Pickle. GRATE off very thin the out-rinds of two dozen of lemons, and cut the lemons into four quarters, but leave the bottoms whole. Rub on them equally half a pound of bay fait, and fpread them on a large pewter dilh. Put them into a cool oven, or let them dry gra¬ dually by the fire, till all the juice be dried into the peels. Then put them into a well-glazed pitcher, with an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves beat fine, an ounce of nutmegs cut into thin flices, four ounces of peeled garlic, and half a pint of muftard-feed a little bruifed, and tied in a muflin rag. Pour over them two quarts of boiling white wine vinegar, and clofe the pitcher well up. Let it (land by the fire five or fix days, fhake it up well every day, then tie it up, and let it Hand three months, by which time it will lofe its bitter tafte. When you bottle it, put the pickle and lemon in a hair fieve, prefs them well to get out the liquor, and let it {land another day. Then pour off the fine, and bottle it; let the other {hand three or four days, and it will fine itfelf. Then pour off the fine, and bottle it; and let it Hand again to.fine, and thus proceed till the whole be bottled. It may be ufed in any white fauce, without fear of hurting the colour, and is very good for fifh-fauce and made difhes. A tea-fpoonful will be {Ef¬ ficient for white fauce, and double the quantity for brown fauce for a fowl. Iris a moft ufeful pickle, and gives a fine flavour to whatever it be ufed in; but remember always to put it in before you thicken the fauce, or put in any cream, left the fharpnefs fnould make it curdle, which will fpoil your fauce. Cucumbers. YOUR cucumbers muft be as free from fpots as poffible, and the fmalleft you can get. Put them into ffrong fait and water for nine or ten days, or till they be quite yellow, and ftir them twice a day at leaft, or they will grow foft. When they be perfectly yellow, pour the water from them, and cover them with plenty of vine leaves. Set your water over the fire, and when it boils. PICKLING. 252 boils, pour it upon them, and fet them upon the hearth to keep warm. When the water be nearly cold, make it boiling hot again, and pour it upon them. Proceed in this manner till you perceive they be of a fine green, which they will be in four or five times. Be careful to keep them well covered with vine leaves, with a cloth, and difh over the top to keep in the (team, which will help to green them the fooner. When they be greened, put them in a hair fieve to drain, and then make the following pickle for them : To every two quarts of white wine vinegar, put half an ounce of mace, ten or twelve cloves, an ounce of ginger cut into llices, the fame of black pepper, and a handful of fait. Boil them all to¬ gether for five minutes, pour it hot upon your pickles, and tie them down with a bladder for ufe. You may pickle them with ale allegar, or diftllled vinegar; and you may add three or four cloves of garlic or fhalots. Cucumbers in Slices. SLICE fome large cucumbers before they be too ripe, of the thicknefs of a crown-piece, and put them into a pewter difh. To every dozen of cucumbers, flice two large onions thin, and fo on till you have filled your difh, or have got the quantity you intend to pickle,; but remember to put a handful of fait between every row. Then cover them with another pewter difh, and let them Hand twenty-four hours. Then put them into a cullender, and let them dry well; put them into a jar, cover them over with white wine vinegar, and let them o J Hand four hours. Pour the vinegar from them into a , r laucepan, and boil it with a little fait. Put to the cu¬ cumbers a little mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger fiiced, and then pour on them the boil¬ ing vinegar. Cover them clofe, and when they be cold, tie them down, and they will be ready for ufe in a few days. Walnuts pickled black. YOUR walnuts muft be taken from the tree before the {hell be hard, which may be known by running a pin into them, and always gather them when the fun 8 be 253 PICKLING. be hot upon them. Put" them into throng halt and water for. nine days^ and P;r them twice a day, obferving to change' the fait and water every- three days. Then put them into a hair fieve, and let them (land in the air till They turn black. Put them into Prong Pone jars, and 'pour boiling allegar over them. Cover them up, and let-them hand till they be cold. Then give the allegar three more boilings, pour it each time on the walnuts, and let it Pand till it be cold between every boiling. - Then tie them down with paper and a bladder over them, and let them Pand two months. Having Pood that time, take them out of the allegar, and make for them the- following pickle : To every two quarts of allegar, put half an ounce of mace, and the fame of cloves ; of black pepper, Jamaica pepper, ginger, and long pep¬ per, an ounce each, and two ounces of common fait. Boil it ten minutes, pour it hot on your walnuts, and - tie them down, covered with paper and a bladder. Walnuts pickled white. H AVIN G procured a fufhcient quantity of walnuts, of the largeP fize, and Gken the above precautions that their Piells be not hard, pare them very thin till the white appear, and throw them into fpring-water and a handful of fait as you do them. Let them Pand in that water for fix hours, and put a thin board upon them to keep 'them under the water. Then let on a Pewpan, with fame clean fpring-water on a charcoal fire. Take your nuts out of the water, put them into the Pewpan, and let them fimmer four or five minutes, but not boil. Then have ready a pan of fpring-water, with a handful of white fait in it, Pir it till the fait be melted, then take your nuts out of the Pewpan with a wooden ladle or fpoon, and put them into the cold water and fait. Let them Pand a quarter of an hour, with the board lying on them to keep them down as before; for if they be not kept under the liquor they will turn black. Then lay them on a : doth, and cover them with another to dry; carefully rub them with a loft cloth, and put them into your jar, with fame blades of mace and nutmeg diced thin. P I ‘ C K L I N G. (254 thin. Mix your fpice between your nuts, and pour dif- tilled vinegar over them. When your jar be full of nuts, pour mutton fat over them, and tie them clofe down with a bladder and leather, to keep out the air. Walnuts pickled of an Olive Colour, H AY IN G gathered your walnuts with the fame precautions as above directed, put them into ftrong ale allegar, and tie them down under a bladder and paper to keep out the air. .Let them Hand twelve months, then take them out of the allegar, and make for them a pickle of ftrong allegar. To every.quart, put half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, the fame of long pepper, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the fame of cloves, a head of garlic, and a little fait. Boil them all together five dr fix minutes, and then pour it upon your walnuts. As it gets cold, boil it again three times, and pour it on your walnuts. Then tie them down with a bladder and paper over it; and, if your allegar be good, they will keep feveral years, ydthout either turning colour, or growing foft. You may make very good catchup of the allegar that comes from the walnuts, by adding a pound of anchovies, an ounce of cloves, the fame of long and of black pepper, a head of garlic, and half a pound of common fait, to every gallon of allegar. Boil -it till it be half reduced, and fkim it well. Then bottle it for ufe, and it wall keep a great while. Walnuts pickled green. FOR this purpofe, you muft make choice of the large double or French walnuts, gathered before the ihells be hard. Vfrap them fingly in vine leaves, put a few vine leaves in the bottom of your jar, and nearly fill it with your walnuts. Take care that they do not touch one another, and put a good many leaves over them. Then fill your jar with good allegar, cover them clofe tlrat the’air cannot get in, and let them ftanb for three weeks. Then pour the allegar from them, put frefh leaves on. the bottom of another jar, takeout your walnuts, andhvrap them feparately in frefh leaves as quick as poffibly you can. Put them into yoiir jar with a good many PICKLING. 255 many leaves over them, and fill it with white wine vine¬ gar.. Let them ftand three weeks, pour off your vine¬ gar, and wrap them as before, with frefh leaves at the bottom and top of your jar. Take frefh white wine vinegar, put fait in it till it will bear an egg, and add to it mace, cloves, nutmeg, and garlic. Boil it about eight minutes, and then pour it on your walnuts. Tie them clofe with paper and a bladder, and fet them by for ufe. Always take care to keep them covered, and when you take any out for ufe, you muff not put in any again that be left. Kidney Beans. PUT force young and fmall’peans into a ftrong fait and 'water for three days, Birring them two or three times each day. Then put them into a pan, with vine leayes both under and over them, and pour on them the fame water they came out of. Cover them clofe, and fet them over a very flow fire till they be of a very fine green. Then put them into a hair fieve to dfain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, or fine ale allegar. Boil it five or fix minutes with a little mace, Jamaica pepper, long pepper, and a race or two of ginger diced. Then pour it hot upon the beans, and tie them down with a bladder and paper. Mangoes. CUCUMBERS ufed for this purpofe muff be of the largeft fort, and taken from.the vines before they be too ripe, 'or yellow at the ends. - Cut a piece out of the fide, and take out the feeds with an apple-fcraper, or a tea-fpoon. Then put them into very ftrong fait and water for eight or nine days, or till they be very yellow. Stir them well two or tlfree times each day, and put them into a pan, with a large quantity of vine leaves both over and under them. Beat a little roach- alum very fine, and put it into the fait and water they came out of. Pour it on your cucumberr and fet it upon a very, flow fire for four or five hours, till they be pretty green. Then take them out, and drain them in a hair fieve, and when they be cold, put to them a little 4 ‘ horfe- s 5 6 PICKLING. horfe-radifh, then muftard-feed, two or three heads of garlic, a few pepper-corns, a few green cucumbers diced in fmall pieces, then horfe-radifh, and the fame as be¬ fore-mentioned, till you have filled them. Then take the piece you cut out, and few it on with a large needle and thread, and do all the reft in the fame manner. * * Have ready the following pickle. To every gallon of allegar put an ounce of mace, the fame of cloves, two ounces of diced ginger, the fame of long pepper, Ja¬ maica pepper, and black pepper; three ounces of muf¬ tard-feed tied up in a bag, four ounces of garlic, and a flick of horfe-radifh cut in dices. Boil them five mi¬ nutes in the allegar, then pour it upon your pickles, tie them down, and keep them for ufe. Codlins. YOUR codlins muftbe gathered when they be about the dze of a large French walnut. Put them into a pan with a great many vine leaves at the bottom, and cover them well with the vine leaves. Set them over a very dow dre till you can peel the ddn oft, and then take them carefully up in a hair fieve; peel them with a pen-knife, and put them infeo the fame pot again, with the vine leaves and water as before. Cover them clofe, and fet them over a dow fire till they be of a dne green. Then drain them through a hair deve, and when they be cold, put them into diftiiled vinegar. Pour a little mutton fat on the top, and with a bladder and paper - tie them down clofe. Golden Pippins. HAYING procured fine pippins, free from fpofs and bruifes, put them into a preferving-pan with cold fpring water, and fet them on a charcoal dre. Keep them ftirring with a wooden fpoon till they will peel, but do not let them boil. When they be enough, peel them, and put them into the water again, with a quar¬ ter of a pint of the bed; vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of alum. Cover them clofe with a pewter difh, and fet them on the charcoal ftre again, but do not let them PICKLING. *57 them boil. Let them Hand, turning them now and then, till they look greenj then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to cool. When they be cold, put to them the following pickle. To every gallon of vinegar put two ounces of muftard feeds, two-or three heads of gar¬ lic, a good deal of ginger diced, half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg. Mix your pickle well together, pour it over your pippins, and cover them clofe* Gerkins. TAKE a large earthen pan with ipring water in it, and to every gallon of water put two pounds of fait, Mix them well together, and throw in five hundred ger¬ kins. In two hours take them out, and put them to drain. Let them be drained very dry, and then' put them into a -jar. Put into a pot a gallon of the bdl white wine vinegar, half an ounce, or cloves and uace, an ounce of allfpice, the fame quantity of muftard feed, a flick of horfe-radifh cut in dices, fix bay leaves, two or three races of ginger, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a handful of fait. Boil up ail together in the pot, and pour it over the gerkins. Cover them clofe down, and let them Hand twenty-four hours. Then put them in your pot, and let them fimmer over the fire till they be green; but be careful not to let them boil, as that will fpoil them. Then put them into your jar, and cover them clofe down till they be cold. Then tie them over ■j with a bladder and a leather, and put them in a cold dry place. Peaches , Ne Pear ine's , and Apricots* YOUR peaches mufl be gathered when they be at their full growth, and juft before they turn to be ripe, and be fure that they be not bruifed. Take as much fpr-ing water as you think wili" cover them, and make it fait enough to bear an egg, for which purpefe you mufl ufe an equal quantity of bay and common fait. Then lay in your peaches, and put a thin board over them to keep them under the water. Let them Hand three days, then take them out, wipe them very carefully with a fine foft doth, and lay them in your jar* Then take as S much PICKLING. 258 much white wine vinegar as will fill your jar, and to every gallon put one pint of the beft well made muftard, two or three heads of garlic, a good deal of ginger fliced, and half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmegs. Mix your pickle will together, and pour it over your peaches. Tie them up clofe, and they will be fit to eat in two months. Nectarines and apricots are pickled in the fame manner. . Berberries. HAVING procured berberries that are not over ripe, pick off the leaves and dead Italics, and put them into jars, with a large quantity of ftrong fait and water, and tie them down with a bladder. When you fee a fcum rife on your berberries, put them into frefh fait and water ; but they need no vinegar, their own fharp- nefs being fully fufficient to preserve them. Radijh Pods. PUT your radifh pods, which muff be gathered when they be quite young, into fait and water all night. Then boil the fait and water they were laid in, pour it upon your pods, and cover your jar clofe to keep in the fleam. When it be pretty nearly cold, make it boiling hot, and pour it on again, and keep doing fo till your pods be quite green. Then put them into a fieve to drain, and make a pickle for them of white wine vinegar, with a little mace, ginger, long pepper, and horfe-radifh. Pour it boiling hot upon your pods, and when it be almoft cold, make your vinegar twice hot as before, and pour it upon them. Tie them down with a bladder, and put them by for ufe. Beet Roots. l BEET Roots are a very pretty garnilli for made diflies, and are thus pickled. Boil the roots till they be tender, then take off the fldns, cut them in fiices, gimp them in the fhape of wheels, or what form you pleafe, ' and put them into a jar. Take as much vinegar as you think will cover them, and boil it with a little mace, a race PICKLING. 259 race of ginger fliced, and a few dices of horfe-radifh* Pour it hot upon your roots, and tie them down. Parjley pickled green. M AKE a ftrong fait and water that will bear an egg, and throw into it a large quantity of curled parfley. Let it {land a week, then take it out to drain, make a frefh fait and water as before, and let it Hand another week. 'Then drain it well, put it into fpring water, and change it three days fuccefflvely. Then fcald it in hard water till it becomes green, take it out and drain it quite dry, and boil a quart of difdlled vinegar a few- minutes, with two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg fliced, and a fhalot or two. When it be quite cold, pour it on your parfley, with two or three dices of horfe-radifh, and keep it for ufe. Elder Buds* HAVING procured your elder buds, which mud be gathered when they be about the fize of hop buds, put them into a ftrong Lit and wafer for nine days, and. ftir them two or three times a day. Then put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, and pour on them the water they came out of. Set them over a flow fire till they be quite green, and then make a pickle for them of allegar, a little mace, a few fhalots, and fome gin¬ ger fliced. Boil them two or three minutes, and pour it upon your buds. Tie them down, and keep them in a dry place for ufe. Elder Shoots. PUT your elder fhoots, which mud be gathered when they be of the thicknefs of a pipe drank, into fait and water all night. Then put them into done jars in layers, and between every layer ftrew a little muftard feed, fcraped horfe-radifh, a few fhalots, a little white beet-root, and a cauliflower pulled into fmall pieces. Then pour boiling allegar upon it, and fcald it three times. Keep it in a dry place, with a leather tied over it. S 2 Najlur - PICKLING. z 6 o Nafiurtiums. PUT your nafturtium berries, which muff be ga¬ thered foon after the bloffoms be gone off, into cold fait and water, and change the water for three days fuccef- fively. Make your pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg fliced, fhalots, pepper-corns, fait, and horfe- radilh. Your pickle muff be made pretty ftrong, as you muft not boil it. When you have drained your ber¬ ries, put them into ajar, and pour the pickle to them. LET your grapes be of their full growth, but not ripe. Cut them into fmall bunches fit for garnifhing, and put them into a ftone jar, with vine leaves between every layer of grapes. Then take fpring water, as much as will cover them, put into it a pound of bay fait, and as much white fait as will make it bear an esg. Dry your bay fait and pound it, before you put it in, as that will make it melt the fooner. Put it into a pot, and boil and fkim ft well; but take off only the black fcum. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, let it ftand to cool and fettle; and when it be almoft: cold, pour the clear liquor on the grapes, lay vine leaves on the top, tie them down clofe with a linen cloth, and cover them with a diftn Let them ftand twenty- four hours, then take them out, lay them on a cloth, cover them over with another, and let them dry be¬ tween the cloths. Then take two quarts of vinegar, a quart of fpring water, and a pound of coarie lugar. Let it boil a little, fkim it very clean as it boils, and let it ftand till it be quite cold. Dry your jar with a cloth, put frefh vine leaves at the bottom and between every bunch of grapes, and on the top. Then pour the clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill yoi.r jar that the pickle may be above the grapes, and having tied a thin piece of board in a piece of flannel, lay it on the top of the jar, to keep the grapes under the liquor. Tie them down with a bladder and a leather, and when you want them for ufe, take them out with a wooden fpoon. Cquli- PICKLING. 26 1 Cauliflowers. PULL the whitefl and clofeft cauliflowers you can get into bunches, and fpread them on an earthen difh. Lay fait all over them, and let them (land for three days to bring out all the water. Then put them into jars, and pour boiling fait and water upon them. Let them Hand all night, then drain them into a hair fieve, and put them into glafs jars. Fill up your jars with dif- tilled vinegar, and tie them down clofe. Red Cabbage. HAVING fliced your cabbage crofs-ways, put it on an earthen difh, and fprinkle a handful of fait over it. Cover it with another difh, and let it Hand twenty- four hours. Then put it into a cullender to drain, and lay it in your jar. Take white wine vinegar enough to cover it, a little cloves, mace, and allfpice. Put them in whole, with a little cochineal bruifed fine. Then boil it up, and pour it either hot or cold on your cab¬ bage. Cover it clofe with a cloth till it: be cold, if you pour on the pickle hot, and then tie it up clofe as you do other pickles. Indian Pickle , or Piccalillo. TAKE a cauliflower, a white cabbage, a few fmall cucumbers, radifh pods, kidney-beans, and a little beet¬ root, or any other thing commonly pickled. Put them into a hair fieve, and throw a large handful of fait over them. Set them in the fun, or before the fire, for three days to dry. When all the water be run out of them, put them into a large earthen pot in layers, and between every layer put a handful of brown muftard feed. Then take as much ale allegar as you think will cover it, and to every four quarts of allegar, put an ounce of turmeric. Boil them together, and pour it hot upon your pickle. Let it Hand twelve days upon the hearth, or till the pickles be all of a bright yellow colour, and mod of the allegar fucked up. Then take two quarts of ftrong ale allegar, an ounce of mace, the fame of white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and the S 3 Tame 26 2 PICKLING. fame of long pepper and nutmeg. Beat them all to*- gether, and boil them ten minutes in the allegar. Then pour it upon your pickles, with four ounces of peeled garlic. Tie it clofe down. Truffles. TRUFFLES grow like mufhrooms, but never appear above the ground in their natural Fate: they generally lie ten inches deep. Auer they are ripe, they rot in the ground, and young ones grow in great num¬ bers from every old truffle which oecays. The truffle has a very rich, tart, and high flavour, when frefh, but lofes it in a great meafure when dried. Flowever, they are frequently ufed in made difhes. They are common in France and Italy, and we have them in fome parts of England. Morells. MORELLS are likewife of the mufhroom kind, but they rife above the earth about three inches, of the bignefs of an egg, of a dufky whit.ifh colour. They have a higher flavour frefh than dry. They grow in Eng¬ land ; but are more common and richer in flavour in the warmer parts of Europe. Chyan Pepper. TFIE plant which bears this pod is fometimes raifecf in our gardens; its proper name is capficum. From its growing in Africa, it is called Guinea pepper; and Chyan pepper from its growth in America. The pods are long, and when ripe, of a fmopth fine red colour, Some call it garden-coral. The powder of this is called Chyan pepper, and is thus made. The pods are ga¬ thered v/hen full ripe. They are then opened, the feeds taken out, and the pods laid to dry in the fun. When quite dry, they are beaten to a coarfe powder. This powder is Chyan pepper in the piaineft way 3 but there are many w a ys of preparing it. Mufhrooms. PUT the fmallefc mufhrooms you can get into fpring 'water, and rub them with a piece of new flannel dipped W In fait. Throw them into cold water as you do them, which will make them keep their colour. Then put tjiem into a faucepan, and throw a handful of fait over them. Cover them clofe, and fet them over the fire four or five minutes, or till you find they be thoroughly hot, and the liquor be drawn out of them. Then lay them between two clean cloths till they be cold, put them into glafs bottles, and fill them up with diftiiled vinegar. Put a blade or two of mace, and a tea-fpoon- ful of eating oil, into every bottle. Cork them up clofe, and fet them in a cool place. If you have not any diftiiled vinegar, you may ufe white wine vinegar, or ale allegar will do; but it muft be boiled with a little mace, fait, and a few dices of ginger, and it muft ftand to be cold before you put it on your mufhrooms. If your vinegar or allegar be too fharp, it will foften your mufhrooms, neither will they keep fo long, nor be fo white. If you wilh to pickle your mufhrcoms brown , you muft proceed in the following manner. Wafli a quart of large mufhroom buttons in allegar with a flannel. Take three anchovies and chop them fmall, a few blades of mace, a little pepper and ginger, a fpoonful of fait, and three cloves of fhalots. Put them into a fiucenan, with as much allegar as will half cover them, fet them on the fire, and let them ftew till they fhrink pretty much. When cold, put them into fmall bottles, with the allegar poured upon them. Then cork and tie them up clofe. This pickle ufed in brown fauce, is a very great addition to it. Artichokes. TAKE young artichokes as foon as they be formed, and boil them for two or three minutes in a ftrong fait and water. Lay them upon a hair fieve to drain, and when they be cold, put them into narrow-topped iars. Then take as much white wine vinegar as w: your artichokes. Boil them with a : ■’ mace, a few llices of ginger, and a Pour it on them while it be hot, on 0 . a dole. 26 4 PICKLING. Artichoke Bottoms. BOIL your artichokes till you can pul! off the leaves, then take off the chokes, and cut them from the ftalk; but dm great care that you do not let the knife touch the top. Throw them into fait and water for an hour, then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to drain. As foon as they be dry, put them into large wide-mouth glaffes, with a little mace and diced nut-* meg between, and fill them either with difiilled vinegar, or fugar-vinegar and fpring water. Cover them with mutton fat fried, and tie them down with leather and a bladder. Onions. TAKE a fufficient number of the fmalleft onions you can get, and put them into fait and water for nine • days, obferving to change the water every day. Then put them into jars, and pour frefh boiling fait and water, over them. Let them ftand clofe covered until they be cold, then make fome more fait and water, and pour it boiling hot upon them. When it be cold, put your onions into a hair fieve to drain, then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and fill them up with diftilled vinegar. Put into every bottle a dice or two of gin¬ ger, a blade of mace, and a large tea-fpoonful of eat¬ ing oil, which will keep the onions white. If you like the tafte of a bay-leaf, you may put one or two into every bottle, and as much bay fait as will lie on a fix- pence. Cork them well up. Soy. ' THIS article comes from the Eaft Indies, and iS made from their mufhrooms, which grow in the woods. They are of a purplifh colour, and are wrinkled on the furface like a morell. They gather them in the middle of the day, and wadi them in fait and water. They then lay them in a difh, madi them with their hands, and fprinkle them with fait and beaten pepper. The next day the liquor is preffed off, and fome galangals (a root which grows in the Ball Indies) and fpices added tot PICKLING. 265 to it. It is boiled up till it be very ftrong, and then fome more fait is fprinkled into it. In this manner it will keep many years. Caveach, or pickled Mackerel. TAKE fix large mackerel, and cut them into round pieces. Then take an ounce of beaten pepper, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful of fait. Mix your fait and beaten fpice together, then make two or three holes in each piece, and with your finger thruft the feafoning into the holes. Rub the piece all over with the feafoning, fry them brown in oil, and let them ftand till they be cold. Then put them into vinegar, and cover them with oil. They are delicious eating, and, if they be well covered, they will keep a long time. Indian Bamboo imitated, ABOUT the beginning or middle of May, take the middle of the (talks of the young (hoots of elder, for the tops of the (hoots are not worth doing. Peel off the out rind, and lay them all night in a ftrong brine of fait and beer. Dry them fingly in a cloth, and in the mean time make a pickle of an equal quantity of goofe- herry vinegar and ale allegar. To every quart of pickle put an ounce of long pepper, the fame quantity of diced ginger, a few corns of Jamaica pepper, and a little mace. Boil it, and pour it hot upon the (hoots. Stop the jar clofe, and fet it by the fire-fide for twenty-four hours, taking care to ftir it frequently, JJparagus, C U T off the white ends of the largeft afparagus you '.can get, and wadi the green ends in fpring warer. Then put them into another clean water, and let them lie therein two or three hours. Put into a broad ftewpan full of fpring water, a large handful of fait, fet it on the fire, and when it boils, put in your grafs, not tied up, but loofe, and not too many at a time, left you break the heads. Juft feald them, and no more; then take them out with a broad fkimmer, and lay them on a cloth £0 cook Then make your pickle wida a gallon or more, according 2.66 PICKLING. according to the quantity of your afparagus, of white wine vinegar, and an ounce of bay fait. Boil it, and put your afparagus into your jar. To a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, and the fame quantity of whole white pepper. Pour the pickle hot over the afparagus, and cover them with a linen cloth, three or four times double; and when they have flood a week, boil the pickle again. Let them Hand a week longer, then boil the pickle again, and pour it on hot as before. When they be cold, cover them clofe, in the fame manner as you do other pickles. Ox Palates. WASH the palates well with fait and water, and put them into a pipkin with fome clean fait and water. When they be ready to boil, Heim them well, and put to them as much pepper, cloves, and mace, as will give them a quick tafte. When they be boiled tender, which will require four or five hours, peel them, and cut them into frnall pieces, and let them cool. Then make the pickle of an equal quantity of white wine and vinegar. Boil the pickle, and put in the lpices that were boiled in the palates. When both the pickle and palates be cold, lay your palates in ajar, and put to them a few bay-leaves, and a little frefh fpice. Pour the pickle over them, cover them clofe, and keep them for ufe. They are very ufeful to put into made difhes; or you may at any time make a pretty little difh, either with brown fauce or white, or butter and milliard, and a fpoonful of white , wine. Samphire. LAY green famphire into a clean pan, and throw over it two or three handfuls of fait 5 then cover it with fpring water. Let it lie twenty-four hours, then put it into a dean faucepan, throw in a handful of fait, and cover it with good vinegar. Cover the pan clofe, and fet it over a flow fire. Let it {land till it be juft green and crifp, and then take it off at that moment; for if it fhould remain till it be foft, it will be fpoiied. Put it in your pickling-pot, and cover it clofe. As foon as PICKLING. 267 it be cold, tie it down with a bladder and leather, and keep it for ufe, Or you may keep it all the year, in a very ftrong brine of fait and water, and throw it into vinegar juft before you ufe it. Red Currants. TAKE white wine vinegar, and to every quart of vinegar put in half a pound of Lilbon fugar. 1 Then pick the worft of your currants, and put them into this liquor ; but put the belt of your currants into glaftes. Then boil your pickle with the worft of your currants, and fkim it very clean. Boil it till it looks of a fine colour, 'and let it (land till it be cold before you ftrain it. Then ftrain it through a cloth, wringing it to get all the colour you can from the currants. Let it (land to cool and fettle, then pour it clear into the glaftes in a little of the pickle, and when it be cold, cover it dole with a bladder and leather. To every half pound of fugar, put a quarter of a pound of white fait. Smelts. WHEN fmelts be in great plenty, take a quarter of a peck of them, and waih, clean, and gut them. Take half an ouqce of pepper, the fame quantity of nutmegs a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of fak- petre, and a quarter of a pound of common fait. Beat all very fine, and then lay your fmelts in rows in a jar. Between every layer of fmelts, ftrew the fea- foning, with four or five bay-leaves. Then boil red wine, and pour over them a fufficient quantity to cover them. Cover them with a plate, and when cold, ftop them down clofe. Many people prefer them to an¬ chovies, Anchovies. ARTIFICIAL anchovies are made in this man¬ ner. To a peck of fprats, take two pounds of common fait, a quarter of a pound of bay-falt, four of faltpetre two ounces of Prunella fait, and a fmall quantitv of cochineal. Pound all in a mortar, put them into a ftone pan, a row of fprats, then a layer of yoqr compound, and fo 263 pi c k l i n a. fo on alternately to the top. Prefs them hard down, cover them clofe, let them ftand for fix months, and they will be fit for ufe. Take particular care that your fprats be very frefh, and do not wafh or wipe them, but take them juft as they come out of the water. Oyjlers , Cockles , and MuJJels. TAKE two hundred of the neweft and beft oyfters you can get, and be careful to fave the liquor in a pan as you open them. Cutoff the black verge, faving the reft, and put them into their own liquor. Then put all the liqour and oyfters into a kettle, boil them about half an hour on a gentle fire, and do them very flowly, fkim- ming them as the fcum rifes. Then take them off the fire, take out the oyfters, and ftrain the liquor through a fine cloth. Then put in the oyfters again, take out a pint of the liquor when hot, and put thereto three quar¬ ters of an ounce of mace, and half an ounce of cloves. Juft give it one boil, then put it to the oyfters, and ftir up the fpices w T ell among them. Then put in about a fpoonful of fait, three quarters of a pint of the beft white wine vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper. Then let them ftand till they be cold, and put the oyfters, as many as you well can, into the barrel. Put in as much liquor as the barrel will hold, letting them fettle awhile, and they will foon be fit to eat. Or you may put them in ftone jars, cover them clofe with a bladder and leather, and be fure they be quite cold before you cover them up. In the like manner you may do cockles and muffels, with this difference only, that there is not any thing to be picked off cockles, and as they be fmall, the above ingredients will be fufficient for two quarts of muffels; but take great care to pick out the crabs under the tongues of the muffels, and the little pus which grows at the root of the tongue. Cockles and muffels muft be wafhed in feveral waters, to clean them from the grit. Put them in a ftewpan by them- felves, cover them clofe, and when they open, pick them out of the fliells, and ftrain the liquor. C HAP, 269 COLLARING, CHAP. II. COLLARING. Preliminary Hints and Objervations « I T is a necefiary article in collaring, to take care that you roll it up properly, and bind it clofe. Be cau¬ tious that you boil it thoroughly enough, and when it be quite cold, put it into the pickle with the fame binding it had on when boiled; but take it off the next day, and it will leave the fkin clear. Make frelh pickle fre¬ quently, which will preferve your meat much longer. Beef. BONE a piece of thick flank of beef, cut the fkin off, and fait it with two ounces of faltpetre, two ounces €*£ fal-prunella, the fame quantity of bay-lalt, half a pound of coarfe fugar, and two pounds of white fait. Beat the hard falts fine, and mix all together. Turn it every day, and rub it well with the brine, for eight days. Then take it out of the pickle, wafh it, and wipe it dry. Take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the fame quantity of mace, twelve corns of allfpice, and a nut¬ meg beat very fine, with a fpoonful of beaten pepper, a large quantity of chopped parfley, and fome lweet herbs chopped fine. Sprinkle it on the beef, and roll it up very tight 3 put a coarfe cloth round it, and tie it very tight with beggar’s tape. Boil it in a large copper of water, and if it be a large collar, it will take fix hours boiling, but a fmall one will be done in five. Take it out, and put it in a prefs till it be cold; but if you have no prefs, put it between two boards, and a large weight upon it, till it be cold. Then take it out of the cloth, and cut it into, fliees. You may ufe raw par¬ fley for a garnifh. Breafi 2JO COLLARING. Breaji of Veal. TAKE a bread of veal, bone it, and beat it a little,* Rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and drew over it a little beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and fait; a large handful of parfley chopped fmall, with a few fprigs of fweet-marjoram, a little lemon-peel finely Hired, an an¬ chovy walked, boned, and chopped very fmall, and mixed with a few crumbs of bread. Then roll it up very tight, bind it hard with a fillet, and wrap it in a clean cloth. Then boil it two hours and a half in fait water, and when it be enough, hang it up by one end, and make a pickle for it. To a pint of fait and water, put half a pint of vinegar; and when you fend it up to table, cut a fiice off one of the ends. Pickles and parfley are the ufual garnifh. Breajl of Mutton. TAKE off the (kin of a bread of mutton, and with a fharp knife nicely take out all the bones, but take care that you do not cut through the ipeat. Pick all the fat and meat off the bones, then grate fome nut¬ meg all over the in fide of the mutton, a very little beaten mace, a little pepper and fait, a fewfweet herbs fhred fmall, a few crumbs of bread, and the bits of fat picked off the bones. Roll, it up tight, dick a fkewer in to hold it together, but do it in fuch a manner that the collar may dand upright in the difh. Tie a packthread acrofs it to hold it together, fpit it, then roll the caul of a bread of veal all round it, and road it. When it has been about an hour at the fire, take olf the caul, dredge it with dour, bade it well with frefh butter, and let it be of a fine brown. It will require, on the w’hole, an hour and a quarter roading. For Luce take fome gravy beef, and cut it and hack it w ? ell; then dour it, and fry it a little brown. Pour into your dewpan fome boiling water, dir it well together, and then fill your pan half full of veater. Put in an onion, a bunch of fweet herbs, a little crud of bread toaded, two or three blades of mace, four cloves, fome whole pepper, and the bones of the mutton. Cover it ciofe, and let it dew till it be quite COLLARING. 271 quite rich and thick. Then ftrain it, boil it up with fome truffles and morels, a few mufhrooms, a fpoonful of catchup, and two or three bottoms of artichokes, if you have them. Add juft enough fait to feafon the gravy, take the packthread off the mutton, and fet it upright in the difh. Cut the fweetbread into four, and broil it of a fine brown, with a' few forcemeat balls fried. Lay thefe round your difh, and pour in the fauce. Ufe le¬ mon for a garnifn. Calf 's Head. TAKE off the hair of a calf’s head, but leave on the fkin. Rip it down the' face, and take out all the bones carefully from the meat. Steep it in warm milk till it be white, then lay it flat s rub it with the white of an egg, and ftrew over it a fpoonful of white pepper, two or three blades of beaten mace, a nutmeg grated, a fpoon¬ ful of fait, two fcore of oyfters chopped fmall, half a pound of beef marrow, and a large handful of parfley. Lay them all over the infide of the head, cut off the ears, and lay them in a thin part of the head; roll it up tight, bind it up with a fillet, and wrap it up in a clean cloth. Boil it two hours, and when it be almoft cold, bind it up with a frefh fillet, and put it in a pickle made as before directed for a breaft of veal. Pig. H AVING killed your pig, drefs off the hair and draw out the entrails. Then wafh it clean, and with a fharp knife rip it open, and take out all the bones. Then rub it all over with pepper and fait beaten fine, a few fage leaves, and fweet herbs chopped fmall. Then roll up your pig tight, and bind it with a fillet. Fill your boiler with foft water, a bunch of fweet herbs, a few pepper corns, a blade or two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a handful of fait, and a pint of vinegar. When it boils, put in your pig, and let it boil till it be tender. Then take it up, and when it be almoft cold, bind it over again, put it into an earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled in upon it. Remember to keep it covered. 8 Venifon . COLLARING. 272 Venifon. TAKE a fide of venifon, bone it, and take away all the finews, and cut it into fquare collars of what fize you pleafe. It will make two or three collars. Lard it with fat clear bacon, and cut your lards as big as the top of your finger, and three or four inches long. Sea- fon your venifon with pepper, fait, cloves, and nutmeg. Roll up your collars, and tie them clofe with coarfe tape. Then put them into deep pots, with feafonings at the bottoms, fome frefh butter, and three or four bay- leaves. Then put in the reft, with fome feafoning and butter on the top, and over that fome beef fuet finely fhred and beaten. Then cover up your pot with coarfe pafte, and bake them four or five hours. After that, take them out of the oven, and let them ftand a little; take out your venifon, and let it drain well from the gravy. Take off all the fat from the gravy, add more butter to the fat, and fet it over a gentle fire to clarify. 1 'hen take it off, and let it ftand a little, and fkim it well. Make your pots clean, or have pots ready fit for each collar. Put a little feafoning, and fome of your clarified butter, at the bottom. Then put in your ve¬ nifon, and fill up your pots with clarified butter, and be fure your butter be an inch above the meat. When it be thoroughly cold, ti* it down with double paper, and lay a tile on the top. They will keep fix or eight months ; and you may, when you ufe a pot, put it for a minute into boiling water, and it will come out whole. Let it ftand till it be cold, ftick it round with bay-leaves, and a fprig at the top. Eels. CUT your eel open, take out the bones, cutoff the head and tail, and lay the eel flat on the dreffer. Shred fome fage as fine as poflible, and mix it with black pep¬ per beaten, fome nutmeg grated, and fome fait. Lay it all over the eel, and roll it up hard in little cloths, tying it up tight at each end. Then fet on fome water, with pepper and fait, five or fix c’oves, three or four- blades of mace, and a bay-leaf or twy. Boil thefe, with the COLLARING. 27^ the bones, head, and tail. Then take out the bones, head, and tail, and put in your eels. Let them boil till they be tender, then take them out of the liquor, and boil the liquor longer. Take it off, and when it be cold, put it to your eels; but do not take off the little cloths till you ufe your collar Salmon. T AKE a fide of falmon, and cut off about a hand¬ ful of the tail. Wafh well your large piece, and dry it with a cloth. Wafh it over with the yolks of eggs, and make fome forcemeat with what you cut off the tail , but take off the fkin, and put to it a handful of par¬ boiled oyfters; a tail or two of lobfters, the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, fix anchovies, a good handful of fweet herbs chopped fmall, a little fait, chives,, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and grated bread. Work all thefe together into a body with yolks of eggs, and lay it all over the flefhy part, with a little more pepper and fait all over the falmon. Then roll it up into a collar* and bind it with broad tape. Bqil it in water, fait, and vinegar; but let the liquor boil firfb. Then put in your collars, with a bunch of fweet herbs, diced ginger, and nutmeg. Let it boil gently nearly two hours, and when it be enough, take it up. Put it into your foufing- pan, and as foon as the pickle be cold, put it to your falmon, and let it Hand in it till it be wanted for ufe; or you may pot it after it be boiled, and fill it up with clarified butter, and this way it will keep good the longer. Mackerel. H AVIN G gutted your mackerel, Hit it down the belly, cut off the head, and take out the bones; but take care you do not cut'it in holes. Then lay it fiat upon its back, feafon it with pepper, fait, mace, and nutmeg, and a handful of parfley fhred fine. Strew it over them, roll them tight, and tie them well feparately in cloths. Boil them gently twenty minutes in vinegar, fait, and water. Then take them out, put them into a T ‘ pot. POTTING. 274 pot, and pour the liquor on them. The next day, take the cloth off your fifft, put a little more vinegar to the pickle, and keep them for ufe. C H A P. III. POTTING. t Preliminary Hints and Objeruations . B EFORE you fend your meat to the oven, take care to cover it well with butter, fallen it down with ftrong paper, and bake it well. As foon as it comes from the oven, drain the gravy from the meat, and be careful to pick out all the lid ns, as otherwife they will hurt the look of the meat, and the gravy will foon turn it four. Remember always to beat your fea- foning well before you put in your meat, and put it in by degrees as you beat it. When you put your meat into your 'pots, prefs it well, and be fure never to pour your clarified Rutter over your meat till it be quite cold. Marble Veal. BOIL, fkin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as pofi- fible, and beat it very well with near a pound of butter, and a little beaten mace, till it be like a pafte. Have ready fome veal (tewed and beat in the fame manner. Then put fome veal into fome potting-pots, thin fome tongue in lumps over the veal; but do not lay on your tongue in any form, but in lumps, and it will then cut like marble. Fill you? pot dole up with veal, prefs it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it. Re¬ member to keep it in a dry place ; and when you fend it to table, cut it out in dices. You may make ufe of curled parfky for a garnifh. POTTING. 275 Geefe and Turkies. TAKE a fatgoofe and a fat turkey, cut them down the rump, and take out all the bones. Lay them flat open, and feafon them well with white pepper, fait, and nutmeg, allowing three nutmegs, with the like propor¬ tion of pepper, and as much fait as both the fpices. When you have feafoned them all over, let your turkey be within the goofe, and keep them in feafoning two nights and a day. Then roll them up as collared beef, very tight, and as fhort as you can, and bind it very faft with ftrong tape. Bake it in a long pan, with plenty of butter, till it be very tender. Let it lie in the hot liquor an hour, then take it out, and let it Hand till next day. Then unbind it, place it in your pot, and pour melted batter over it. Keep it for ufe, and flice it out thin. Tongues. R U B a neat’s tongue with an ounce of faltpetre, and four ounces of brown fugar, and let it lie two days. Then boil it till it be quite tender, and take off the Akin and fide bits. Cut the tongue in very thin dices, and beat it in a marble mortar, with a pound of clari¬ fied butter, and feafon it to your take with pepper, fait* and mace. Beat all as fine as pofiible, then put it clofe down into fmall potting-pots, and pour over them cla¬ rified butter. Or you may pot them in this fine manner. Take a dried tongue, boil it till it be tender, and then peel it. Take a goofe and a large fowl, and bone them; take a quarter of an ounce of mace, the fame quantity of olives, a large nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and beat all -well together; add a fpoonful of fait, and rub the tongue and the infide of the fowl well with them. Put the tongue into the fowl, then feafon the goofe, and fill it with the fowl and tongue, and the goofe will look as if it were whole. Lay it in a pan that will juft hold it, melt frefh butter enough to cover it, fend it to the oven* and bake it an hour and a half. Then uncover the pot, and take out the meat. Care¬ fully drain it from the butter, lay it on a coarfe cloth T 2 till 276 POTT IN G. till it be cold, then take off the hard fat from the gravy * and lay it before the fire to melt. Put your meat again into the pot, and pour your butter over it. If there be not enough, clarify more, and let the butter be an inch above the meat. It will keep a great while, cut fine, and look beautiful; and when you cut it, cut croffways quite down. It makes a pretty corner-difh for dinner, or fide-difh for fupper. Obferve, when you pot it, to lave a little of the fpice to throw over it before the laft butter be put on, otherwife the meat will not be fuffici- eritly fealoned. Beef. j TAKE half a pound of brown iugar and aft ounce of faltpetre, and rub it into twelve pounds of beef. Let it lie twenty-four hours; then wafh it clean, and dry it well with a cloth. Seafon it to your tafte, with pepper, fait, and mace, and cut it into five or fix pieces. Put it into an earthen pot, with a pound of butter in lumps upon it, fet it in a hot oven, and let it Hand there three hours. Then take it out, cutoff the hard outfides, and beat it in a mortar. Add to it a little more pepper, fait, and mace. Then oil a pound of butter in the gravy and fat that came from your beef, and put it in as you find neceffary; but beat the meat exceedingly fine. Then put it into your pots, prefs it dole down, pour clarified butter over it, and keep it in a dry place. If you would pot your beef like venifon, proceed thus: Take a buttock of beef, and cut the lean of it into pound pieces. To eight pounds of beef, take four ounces of faltpetre, the lame quantity of petre-falt, a pint of white fait, and an ounce of fal-prunella. Beat all the fairs very fine, mix them well together, and rub them into the beef. Then let it lie four days, turning it twice a day. After that, put it into a pan, cover it with pump-water, and a little of its own brine. Bake it in an oven, with the houfhold bread, till it be as tender as a chicken; then drain it from the gravy, and take' out all the fkin and finews. Pound it in a marble mortar, lay it in a broad difh, and mix in it an ounce of doves and mace, three quarters of an ounce of pepper. POTTING. 277 pepper, and a nutmeg, all beat very fine. Mix it all well with the meat, adding a little clarified frefh butter to moiften it. Mix all again well together, prefs it down into pots very hard, fet it at the mouth of the oven juft to fettle, and cover it two inches thick with clarified butter. Cover it with white paper as foon as it be cold. Another Method to pet Beef. TAKE two pounds of lean beef, cut it into flices, and lay them upon a plate. Seafon them with fait and pepper, and a little cochineal. Turn and feafon them on the other fide, and then let them lie one upon ano¬ ther all night. Put them into a pan ; add to them half a pint of fmall beer, a little vinegar, and as much water as will cover them. Let there be in the pickle lome black and Jamaica pepper. Cover them very clofe and bake them. When they are baked, take the flices out of the pickle while they are hot, let them lie till cold, and then beat them in a mortar. Add to them a pound of frefh butter while they are beating, alio fome fait, pepper, and nutmeg. When they are well beaten, put them into the pot; and when the bread is drawn, put it into the oven until it be hot through. When it is cold, cover it over with clarified butter, and it will keep a month or tw'o. To pot cold Beef. CUT it fmall, add to it fome melted butter, two anchovies boned and walked, and a little Jamaica pepper beat fine. Put them into a marble mortar, and beat them well together till the meat is yellow. Then put it into pots, and cover it with clarified.butter. Small Birds. H AVING picked and gutted your birds, dry them Weil with a cloth, and feafon them with pepper, fait, and mace. Then put them into a pot with butter, tie your pot down with paper, and bake them in a mode¬ rate oven.' When they come out, drain the gravy from them, and put them into potting-pots.- Pour clarified butter over them, and cover them clofe. T .3 Pigeons. POTTING, 278 Pigeons. PICK and draw your pigeons, cut off the pinions, wafh them clean, and put them into a fieve to drain, Then dry them with a cloth, and feafon them with pep¬ per and fait. Roll a lump of butter in chopped parfiey, and put it into the pigeons. Sew up the vent, then put them into a pot with butter over them, tie them down, and fet them in a moderately-heated oven. When they come out, put them into potting-pots, and pour clari¬ fied butter over them. Woodcocks. TAKE fix woodcocks, pluck them, and draw out the train. Skewer their bills through their thighs, put their legs through each other, and their feet upon their breaks. Seafon them with three or four blades of mace, and a little pepper and fait. Then put them into a deep pot, with a pound of butter over them, and tie a ftrong paper over them. Rake them in a moderate oven, and when they be enough, lay them on a dilh to drain the gravy from them. Then put them into potting-pots; take all the clear butter from your gravy, and put it upon them. Fill up your pots with clarified butter. Keep them in a dry place for ufe. , Moor Game. H AVIN G picked and drawn your gamp, wipe them clean with a cloth, and feafon them well with pepper, fait, and mace. Put one leg through the other, and roaft them till they be of a good brown. When they be cold, put them into potting-pots, and pour over them clarified butter; but obferve to keep their heads un¬ covered with butter. Keep them in a dry place. Venifon. RUB your venifon with vinegar, if it be ftale, and let it lie an hour. Then dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with red wine. Seafon it with pepper, fait, and beaten mace, and put it on an earthen difh. Pour over it half a pint of red wine, and a pound of butter, and fet it in the oven. If it be a (boulder, put a coarfe pafte \ POTTING. 279 pafie over it, and bake it all night in a brown-bread oven. When it comes out, pick it clean from the bones, and beat it in a marble mortar, with the fat from your gravy. If you find it not fufficiently feafoned, add more fealoning and clarified butter, and keep beat¬ ing it till it be a fine pafte. Then prefs it hard down into your pots, and pour clarified butter over it. Hares. LET your hare hang up for four or five days with the fkin on, then cafe it, and cut it up as for eating. Put it into a pot, and feafon it with pepper, fait, and mace. Put a pound of butter upon it, tie it down, and bake it in a bread oven. When it comes out, pick it clean from the bones, and pound it very fine in a mortar, with the fat from your gravy. Then put it clofe down into your pots, and pour over it clarified butter. Herrings. CUT off the heads of your herrings, and put them into an earthen pot. Lay them clofe, and between every layer of herrings drew fome fait, but not too much. Put in cloves, mace, whole pepper, and a nutmeg cut in pieces. Fill up the pot with vinegar, water, and a quarter of a pint of white wine. Cover it with brown paper, tie it down, and bake it in an oven with brown bread. As foon as it be cold, put it into your potting- pots for ufe. Chars. THIS fifh is much admired, and is in a manner peculiar to the lakes in Weftmorland. Pot them in this manner. After having cleanfed them, cut off the fins, tails, and heads, and then lay them in rows in a long baking-pan, having firft feafoned them with pepper, fait, ancl mace. When they be done, let them ftand till they be cold, put them into your potting-pots, and cover them with clarified butter. Eels. SKIN, cleanfe, and wafh clean a very large eel. Dry it in a cloth, and cut it in pieces about four inches T 4 P O T T I N G, 180 long. Seafon them with a little beaten mace and nut-* meg, pepper, fait, - and a little fal-prunella beat fine, Lay them in a pan, and pour as much clarified butter over them as will cover them, Bake them half an hour in a quick oven; but the fize of your eel muft be the general rule to determine what time they will take baking. Take them out with a fork, and lay them on a coarle cloth to drain. When they be quite cold, feafon them again with the fame feafcning, and lay them clofe in the pot. Then take off the butter they were baked in clear from the gravy of the fifn, and let it in a difh before the fire. When it be melted, pour the butter over them, and put them by for ufe. You may bone your eels, if you choofe it; but in that cafe you muft put in no fal-prunella. Lampreys. SKIN your lampreys, cleanfe them with fait, and wipe them dry. Beat fome black pepper, mace, and cloves, mix them with fait, and feafon your fifh with it. Then lay them in a pan, and cover them with cla¬ rified butter. Bake them an hour, feafon them well, and treat them in the fame manner as above directed for eels. If youF butter be good, they will keep a long time. Smelts. DRAW out the in fide; feafon them with fait, pounded mace and pepper, and butter on the top. Bake them. When they are nearly cold, take them out, and lay them on a cloth. Put them into pots, take off the butter from the gravy, clarify it with more, and pour it on them. Pike. SCALE your pike, cut off its head, fplit it, and take out the chine bone. Then ftrew all over the in- fide fome bay fait and pepper; roll it up round, and lay it in a pot. Cover it, and bake it an hour. Then take it out, and lay it on a coarfe cloth to drain, and when it be cold, put it into your pot, and cover it with clarified butter. Lobfier , POTTING. ail Lobjier. BOIL a live lobfter in fait and water, and flick a ike we r in the vent of it to prevent the water getting in. As foon as it be cold, take out the gut, take out all the fiefh, beat it fine in a mortar, and feafon it with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, pepper, and fait. Mix all together, melt a piece of butter the fize of a wall- nut, and mix it with the lobfter as you beat it. When it be beat to a pafte, put it into your potting-pot, and put it down as dole and as hard as you can. Then fet fome butter in a deep broad pan before the fire, and when it be all melted, take off the fcum at the top, if any, and pour the clear butter over the meat as thick as a crown-piece. The whey and churn-milk will fettle at the bottom of the pan ; but take great care that none of that goes in, and always let your butter be very good, or you will fpoil- all. If you choofe it, you may ' put in the meat whole, with the body mixed among it, laying them as clofe together as you can, and pouring the butter over them. A middiing-fized lobfter will take an hour and a half boiling; but be fure you let it be well boiled. Shrimps , WHEN they are boiled, feafon them well with pepper, fait, and a little pounded cloves. Put them clofe into a pot, fet them for a few minutes into a flack oven, and pour over them clarified butter. Salmon. SCALE a piece of frefh falmon, and wipe it clean. Seafon it with Jamaica pepper, black pepper, mace, and doves, beat fine, mixed with lalt, and a little fal-pru- pella; then pour clarified butter over it, and bake it well. Take it out carefully, and lay it to drain. When it be cold, feafon it again, and lay it clofe in your pot, covered with clarified butter. Or you may pot it in this manner: Scale and clean your falmon, cut it down the back, dry it well, and cut it as near the fhape of your pot as you can. Take two nutmegs, an ounce of mace *82 POTTING. mace and cloves beaten, half an ounce of white pepper, and an ounce of fait. Then take out all the bones, cut off the jowl below the fins, and cut off the tail. Seafon the fcaly fide firft, lay that at the bottom of the pot, then rub the feafoning on the. other fide, cover it with a difh, and let it ftand all night. It muft be put double, and the fcaly fide top and bottom; put fome butter at the bottom and top, and cover the pot with fome ftiff coarfe pafte. If it be a large fifh, it will require three hours baking; but if it be a fmall one, two hours will do it. When it comes out of the oven, let it ftand half an hour; then uncover it, and raife it up at one end, that the gravy may run out, remembering to put a trencher and a weight on it to prefs out the gravy. When the butter be cold, take it out clear from the gravy, add more butter to it, and put it in a pan before the fire. When it be melted, pour it over the falmon, and as foon as it be cold, paper it up. As to the feafon¬ ing of thefe things, it muft be regulated by your palate, more or lefs; but take great care that no gravy or whey of the butter be put into your pots, as that will prevent it long keeping good. In this manner you may pot carp, tench, trout, and feveral other forts of fifh. To make Bullace Cheeje. PUT full ripe bullaces into a pot, and to every quart of bullace put a quarter of a pound of loaf fugar beaten fine. Bake them in a moderately-heated oven till they be foft, and then rub them through a hair fieve. To every pound of pulp, add half a pound of loaf fugar beaten fine. Then boil it an hour and a half over a flow fire, and keep ftirring it all the time. Then pour it into potting-pots, tie brandy paper over them, and keep them in a cool place. It will cut very bright and fine, when it has ftood a few months. CHAP. SALTING and SOUSING. 283 CHAP. IV. iThe Preparation of BACON, HAMS, Bacon. U T off the hams and head of your pig, and if it V be a large one take out the chine, but leave in the fpare ribs, as they will keep in the gravy, and prevent the bacon getting rufty. Salt it with common fait and a little faltpetre, and let it lie ten days on a table, to let all the brine run from it. Then fait it again ten or twelve days, turning it every day after the fecond fak¬ ing. Then fcrape it very clean, rub a little fait on it, and hang it up. Take care to fcrape the white froth off it very clean, and rub on a little dry fait, which will keep the bacon from rufting. The dry fait will candy and fhine on it like diamonds. Some people make their bacon thus: Takeoff all the inftde fat of a fide of pork, and lay it on a long board or dreffer, that the blood may run from it. Rub it well on both fides with good fait, and let it lie a day. Then take a pint of bay-falt, a quarter of a pound of faltpetre, and beat them both fine; two pounds of coarfe fugar, and a quarter of a peck of common fait. Lay your pork in fomething that will hold the pickle,, and rub it well with- the above ingredients. Lay the fkinny fide downwards, and bake it every day with the pickle for a fortnight. Then hang it in a wood-fmoke, and afterwards hang it in a dry place, but not in a hot place. Obferve, that all hams and bacon fhould hang clear from every thing, and not touch the wall. Take care to wipe off the old fait before you put it into the pickle, and never keep bacon or hams in a hot kitchen, or in a room expofed to the rays of the fun, as all thefe matters contribute to make them rufty. Weft- sS 4 SALTING AND SOUSING. VVeftphalia Bacon. HAVING chofen a fine fide, of pork, make the following pickle : Take a gallon of pump-water, a quarter of a peck of bay-falt, the fame quantity of white fait, a pound of petre-falt, a quarter of a pound of faltpetre, a pound of coarfe fugar, and an ounce of focho tied up in a rag. Boil all thefe well together, and let it Hand till it be cold. Then put in the pork, and let it lie in this pickle for,a fortnight. Then take ©ut the pork, and dry it over law-dull. This pickle will anfwer very well for tongues j but in that cafe, you mult firft let the tongues lie fix or eight hours in pump- water, to take out the lliminefs; and when they have laid a proper time in the pickle, dry them as you do your pork. Hams. CUT out your hams from the pig, and rub them well with an ounce of faltpetre, half an ounce of fal- prunella pounded, and a pound of common fait. Ob- lerve, that thefe quantities of falts mull be allowed to each ham. Lay them in falt-pans for ten days, turn them once in the time, and rub them well with more common fait. Let them lie ten days longer, and turn them every day. Then take them out, fcrape them as clean as poffible, and dry them well with a clean cloth. Then rub them flightly over with a little fait, and hang them up to dry, but not in too hot a place. Some people make their hams according to the follow¬ ing directions : Take a fat hind-quarter of pork, and cut off a fine ham. Take two ounces of faltpetre, a pound of coarfe fugar, the fame quantity of common fait, and two ounces of fal prunella. Mix all together, and rub your pork well with it. Let it lie a month in this pickle, turning and balling it every day. Then hang it in a wood-fmoke in a dry place, fo that no heat can come to it ; and, if you intend to keep them long, hang them a month or two in a damp place, tak¬ ing care that they do not become mouldy, and it will make them cut fine and fhort. Never lay thefe hams i n SALTING and SOUSING. in water till you boil them, and then boil them in a copper, if you have one, or in the largeft pot you have. Put them in when the water be cold, and do not Differ the water to boil till they have been in four or five hours. Skim the copper or pot well, and frequently till the water boils; and if it be a very large one, it will require three hours boiling; but a fmall one will be done in two hours* provided the water be not buffered to boil too foon. Take it up half an hour before dinner, pull off the fkin s and throw rafpings finely lifted all over it. Hold a red- hot fire-fhovel over it, and when dinner be ready, take a few rafpings in a fieve, and fift them all over the difh. Then lay in your ham, and with your finger make figures round the edge of your difh. Be fure to boil your ham in as much water as you can, and to keep it (Dimming till it boils. It mufl be at leaft four hours before you buffer it to boil. Yorkfhire is famous for hams; and the reafon is, that their fait is much finer than ours in London, it being a large clear fait, and gives the meat a fine flavour. A deep hollow wooden tray is better than a pan, becaufe the pickle fwells about it. ' When you broil any of thefe or the following hams in Dices, let the flices lie a minute or two in boiling water, and then broil thefn. By this method you will take out the fait, and make them eat with a fine flavour. Hams , the Torkjhire Way. FIRST beat them well, and then mix half a peck of fait, three ounces of falt-petre, half an ounce of fal- prunella, and five pounds of coarfe fait. Rub the hams well with this, and lay the remainder on the top. Let them lie three days, and then hang them up. Put as much water to the pickle as will cover the hams, adding fait till it will bear an egg, and then boil and Drain it. The next morning put in the hams, and prefs them down fo that they may be covered. Let them lie a fortnight, rub them well with bran, and dry them. The above ingredients are Diffident for three middling-fized hams. 28 6 SALTING and SOUSING. New England Hams. FOR two hams, take two ounces of fal-prunella $ beat it fine, rub it well in, and let them lie twenty-four hours. Then take half a pound of bay-falt, a quarter of a pound of brown fait, a quarter of a pound of common fait, and one ounce of falt-petre, all beat fine, and half a pound of the coarfeft fugar. Rub all thefe well in, and let them lie two or three days. Then take white common fait, and make a pretty ftrong brine, with about two gallons of water, and half a pound of brown fugar. Boil it well, and feum it when cold. Then put in the hams, and turn them every two or three days in the pickle for three weeks. Then hang them up in a chimney, and fmoke them well a day or two with horfe-litter. Afterwards let them hang about a week on the fide of the kitchen chimney, and then take them down. Keep them dry in a box, with bran covered over them. They may be eaten in a month, or will keep very well one year. Wejiphalia Ham. RUB it with half a pound of the coarfeft fugar, and let it lie till night. Then rub it with an ounce of falt- petre finely beaten, and a pound of common falt ? < Let it lie three weeks, turning it every day. Dry it in wood fmoke, or where turf is burnt. When you boil it, put into the pot or copper, which ever it be boiled in, a pint of oak faw-duft. Mutton Hams. CUT a hind-quarter of mutton like a ham, and rub it well with an ounce of faltpetre, a pound of coarfe fugar, and a pound of common fait, well mixed toge¬ ther. Lay it in a hollow tray, with the fkin downwards, and bafte it every day for a fortnight. Then roll it in faw-duft, and hang it in the wood-fmoke for a fortnight. Then boil it, and hang it in a dry place. Cut it out in Dices, and broil them as you want them, and they will eat very fine. Veal SALTING and SOUSING, 287 Veal Hams. » I LAKE a leg of veal, and cut it like a ham. Take a pint of bay-fait, two ounces of faltpetre, and a pound of common fait. Mix them all together, with an ounce of beaten juniper-berries, and rub the ham well with them. Lay it in a hollow tray with the fkinny fide downwards, and bade it every day with the pickle for a fortnight, and then hang it in wood-fmoke for a fort¬ night longer. You may boil it, or parboil it and road it. Beef Hams. TAKE the leg of a fat Scotch or Welch ox, and cut it like a ham. Take an ounce of bav-falt, an ounce of faltpetre, a pound of common fait, and a pound of coarfe fugar, which will be a fufficient quantity for about fourteen or fifteen pounds of beef; and if a greater or lefs quantity of meat, mix your ingredients in propor¬ tion. Rub your meat with the above ingredients, turn it every day, and bade it well with the pickle every day for a month. Take it out, and roll it in bran or faw- dud. Then hang it in wood-fmoke, v/here there is but little fire, and a condant fmoke, for a month. Then take it down, and hang it in a dry place, not a hot one, and keep it for ufe. You may cut a piece off as you have occafion, and either boil it, or cut it into rafhers, and broil it with poached eggs; or boil a piece, and it eats very good cold, and will fhiver like Dutch beef. \ 'Tongues. H AVIN G fcraped and dried your tongues dean with a cloth, fait them with common fait, and half an ounce of faltpetre to every tongue. Lay them in a deep pot, and turn them every day for a week or ten days. Salt them again, and let them lie a week longer. Then take them out, dry them with a cloth, flour them, and hang them up in a dry, but not in a hot place. Hung Beef. MAKE a drong brine with bay fait, faltpetre, and pump water, and put into it a rib of beef for nine days. 1 Then tH SALflNG AND SOUSING, Then hang it up in a chimney where wood or faw-duft" is burnt. When it be a little dry, wafh the outfide with blood two or three times to make it look black; and when it be dried enough, boil it for ufe. Some houfekeepers prepare their hung beef in thi* manner; Take the navel piece, and hang it up in your cellar as long as it will keep good, and till it begins to be a little fappy. Then take it down, and wafh it in fugar and water, one piece after another, for you muff cut it into three pieces. Then take a pound of falt- petre, and two pounds of bay-falt, dried and pounded (mail. Mix with them two or three fpoonfuls of browri fugar, and rub your beef well with it in every place. Then drew a fufficient quantity of common fait all over it, and let the beef lie clofe till the fait be dilfolved, which will be in fix or feven days. Then turn it every other day for a fortnight, and after that hang it up in a warm but not a hot place. It may hang a fortnight in the kitchen, and when you want it, boil it in bay-falt and pump water till it be tender. It will keep, when boiled, two or three months, rubbing it with a greafy cloth, or putting it two or three minutes into boiling water to take off the mouldinefs. Dutch Beef. TAKE a raw buttock of beef, cut off the fat, rub the lean all over with brown fugar, and let it lie two or three hours in a pan or tray, turning it two or three times. Then fait it with faltpetre and common fait, and let it lie a fortnight, turning it every day. Then roll it very ftraight in a coarfe cloth, put it in a cheefe- prefs a day and a night, and hang it to dry in a chim¬ ney. When you boil it, put it in a cloth, and when it is cold, it will cut like Dutch beef. Pickled Pork . HAVING boned your pork, cut it into pieces of a fize fuitable to lie in the pan into which you intend to put it. Rub your pieces well with faltpetre. Then take two pints of common fait, and two of bay-falt, and rub A SALTING and SOUSING* rub the pieces well with them. Put a layer of common fait at the bottom of your veffel, cover every piece over with common fait, lay them upon one another as clofe as you can, filling the hollow places on the fides with fait. As your fait melts on the top, ftrew on more, lay a coarfe cloth over the veffel, a board over that, and a weight on the board to keep it down. Keep it clofe • covered, and thus managed, it will keep the whole year. Mock Brawn. TAKE the head and a piece of the belly part of a young porker, and rub it well with faltpetre. Let it lie three days, and then wafn it clean. Split the head and boil it, take out the bones, and cut it in pieces. Then take four ox feet boiled tender, cut them in thin pieces, and lay them in the belly piece with the head cut fmail. Then roll it up tight with fheet tin, and boil it four or five hours. When it comes out, fet it up on one end, put a trencher on it within the tin, prefs it down with a large weight, and let it {land all night. The next morn¬ ing take it out of the tin, and bind it with a fillet. Put it into cold fait and water, and it will be fit for ufe. It will keep a long time, if you put frelli fait and water to it every four days. Saujages. TAKE fix pounds of young pork, free from fkin, griftles, and fat. Cut it very fmail, and beat it in a mortar till it be very fine. Then Hired fix pounds of beef fuet very fine, and free from all fkin. Take a good deal of fage, wafh it very clean, pick off the leaves, and Hired it very fine. Spread your meat on a clean dreffer or table, and then fiiake the fage all over it, to the quantity of about three large fpoonfuls. Shred the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine, and throw them over the meat, and alio as many fweet herbs as, when Hired fine, will fill a large fpoon. Grate over it two nutmegs, and put to it two tea-fpoonfdls of pepper, and a large fpoonful of fait. Then throw over it the fuet, and mix all well together. Put it down clofe in a pot, and when U you \ * a 9 o SALTING and SOUSING. you ufe it, roll it up with as much egg as will make it roll fmooth. Make them of the fize of a faufage, and fry them in butter or good dripping. Be lure that the butter in the pan be hot before you put them in, and keep rolling them about. When they be thoroughly hot, and are of a fine light brown, then take them out, and ferve them up. Veal eats well done in this man¬ ner, or veal mixed with pork. If you' choofe it, you may clean fome guts, and fill them with this meat. Bologna Saufages. TAKE a pound of beef fuet, a pound of pork, a pound of bacon, fat and lean together, and the fame quantity of beef and veal. Cut them fmall, and chop them fine. Take a fmall handful of fage, pick off the leaves, and chop it fine, with a few fweet herbs. Seafon pretty high with pepper and fait. Take a large gut well cleaned, and fill it. Set on a faucepan of water, and when it boils, put it in, having firft pricked the gut to prevent its burfting. Boil it gently an hour, and then lay it on clean fcraw to dry. Hog’s Buddings with Almonds . CHOP fine a pound of beef marrow, half a pound of fweet almonds blanched, and beat them fine, with a little orange flower or rofe water, half a pound of white bread grated fine, half a pound of currants dean walked and picked, a quarter of a pound of fine fugar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon together, of each an equal quantity, and half a pint of fack. Mix all well together with half a pint of good cream, and the yolks of four eggs. Fill your guts half full, tie them up, and boil them a quarter of an hour. You may leave out the currants for change; but then a quarter of a pound more of fugar mult be added. Hog’s Buddings with Currants » T O four pounds of beef fuet finely fhrecl put three pounds of grated bread, and two pounds of currants clean picked and. walked; cloves, mace, and cinnamon, of each a quarter of an ounce finely beaten, a little fait, a pound SALTING and SOUSING. 19 1 a pound and a half of fugar, a pine of fack, a quart of cream, a hide rofe water, and twenty eggs well beaten, leaving out half the whites. Mix all thefe well together, fill the guts half full, boil them a little, and prick them as they boil, to keep them from breaking the guts. Take them up upon clean cloths, and then lay them on your difh. You may eat them cold 3 but if they be eaten hot, boil them a few minutes. Black Puddings. TAKE a peck of grits, boil them half an hour in water, drain them, and put them into a clean tub or large pan. Then kill your hog, and fave two quarts of the blood, and keep ftirring it till the blood be quite cold. Then mix it with the grits, and ftir them well together. Seafon it with a large fpoonful of frit, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg toge¬ ther, an equal quantity of each. Dry it, beat it well, and mix it. Take a little winter firvory, fweet marjo¬ ram, and thyme; fome pennyroyal dripped of the ftalks, and chopped very fine. Of thefe take juft a fuf- ficient quantity to feaion them, and to give them a flavour, but no more. The next day, take the leaf of the hog, and cut it into dice, ferape and wafh the guts very clean, then tie one end, and begin to fill them. Mix in the fat as you fill them, and be fure to put in a good deal of fat. Fill the {kins three parts full, tie the other end, and make your puddings what length you pleafe. Prick them with a pin, and put them into a kettle of boiling water. Boil them very loftly an hour, then take them out, and lay them on clean flraw. In Scotland they make their puddings with the blood of a goofe, chop off the head, and five the blood. They ftir it w 7 ell till it be cold, and then mix it with grits, fpice, fait, and fweet herbs, according to their fancy, and fome beef fuet chopped. They take the fkin oft the neck, then pull out the windpipe and fat, fill the {kin, tie it at both ends, and fo make a pie of the gib¬ lets, and lay the pudding in the middle. U 2 'Turkey *$2 SALTING and SOUSING. !Turkey foufed in imitation of Sturgeon. DRESS a fine large turkey very clean, dry and bone it, then tie it up as you do a llurgeon, and put it into the pot with a quart of white wine, a quart of water, the fame quantity of good vinegar, and a very large handful of fait 5 but remember that the wine, water, and vinegar, muft boil before you put in the tur¬ key, and that the pot mull be well fkimmed before it boils. When it be enough, take it out, and tie it tighter; but let the liquor boil a little longer. If you think the pickle wants more vinegar or fait, add it when it be cold, and pour it upon the turkey. It will keep fame months, if Covered dole from the air, and kept in a cool dry place. It may be eaten with oil, vinegar,, and fugar, and fome admire it more than llurgeon. Soujed Tripe . BOIL your tripe, and put it into fait and water, which mull be changed every day till you ufe your tripe. When you want it, dip it in batter made of fiour and eggs, and fry it of a good brov/n; or boil it in frefb fait and water, with an onion diced, and a few fprigs of parfiey. Send it up to table with melted butter in a boat. Pig’s Feet and Ears foufed. HAVING cleaned them properly, boil them till they be tender, and then lplit the feet, and put them, and the ears into fak and water. When you ufe them, dry them well with a cloth, dip them in batter, fry them, and fend them up to table, as above directed for tripe. They will keep fome time, and may be eaten cold ; but " take care to make frefh pickle every other day. C I I A P. 2 93 GARDEN STUFFS. CHAP. V. To hep GARDEN STUFFS and FRUITS. Preliminary Hints and Observations , S the art of prelerving garden fluffs and fruits from being injured or fpoiled by keeping, is a matter of fome confequence to the fuperintendant of the kitchen, it will be neceffary to obferve, that every fpecies of the vegetable tribe mu ft be kept in dry places, as damp places will not only cover them with mould, but aifo totally deprive them of their fine flavour. The fame thing will hold good with refpedt to bottled fruit; but take cate, while you endeavour to avoid putting them into damp places, you do not put them where they may get warm, as that will equally fpoil them. When you boil any dried vegetables, be fure that you allow them plenty of water. Fo hep French Beans all the year. GATHER your beans on a very fine day, and take only thofe that be young and free from fpots. Clean and dry them, put a layer of fait at the bottom of a large ftone jar, and then a layer of beans ; then fait, and then beans, and fo on till the jar be full. Cover them with fait, tie a coarfe cloth over them, put a board on that, and a weight to keep out the air. Set them in a dry cellar, and when you take any out, cover the reft: clofe again. Wafh thofe you take out very clean, and let them lie in foft water twenty-four hours, fluffing the water frequently, and when you boil them, do not put any fait in the water. The beft way of dreffing them is thus: Boil them with juft the white heart of a fmall cabbage, then drain them, chop the cabbage, and put both of them into a faucepan, with a piece of butter as big as an egg, rolled in flour. Shake over it a little pepper, put in a quarter of a pint of good gravy, let v 3 them 2 9 4 GARDEN STUFFS, &c. them Few ten minutes* and then difh them up for a ' fide-difh. T 9 keep Grapes. WHEN you cut your grapes from the vine, take care to leave a joint of the ftaik to them, and hang them up in a dry room, at a proper diftance from each other, that the bunches may hang feparate, and clear of each other; for the air mu ft pals freely between them, or there will be danger of their growing mouldy and rot¬ ten. The Ffontiniac grape is the beft for this purpofe, which, if managed properly, will keep to the end of January at leaft. A? keep Green Peas till Chrijlmas. BE fure to choofe peas for thispurpofe that be young and fine ; fnell them, and throw them into boiling wa¬ ter with fome fait in it. Let them boil five or fix mi¬ nutes, and then throw them into a cullender to drain. Then lay a cloth four or five times double on a table, and fpread them on it. Dry them well, and having your bottles ready, fill them, and cover them with mut¬ ton fat fried. "When it be a little cool, fill the necks almoft to the top, cork them, tie a bladder over them, and fet them in a cool place. When you ufe them, boil your water, put in a little fait, fome fugar, and a piece of butter. When they be boiled enough, throw them into a fieve to drain. Then put them into a fauce- pan .with a good piece of butter, keep making it round all the time till the butter be melted, then turn them into a difh', and fend them to table. i / r To keep Goojeberries. BEAT an ounce of roach alum very fine, and put it into a large pan of boiling hard water. Pick your goofeberries, put a few in the bottom of a hair fieve, and hold them in the boiling water till they turn white. Then take out the fieve, and fpread the goofeberries between two clean cloths. Put more goofeberries in your fieve, and then repeat it till all be ,do_ne. Put the water into a glazed pot till next day, then .put your i goofe- GARDEN STUFFS, &c. 295 goofeberries into wide-mouthed bottles, pick out all the cracked and broken ones, pour your water clear out of the pot, and fill up your bottles with it. Then cork them loofelv, and let them ftand for a fortnight. Ifthey rife to the corks, draw them out, and let them ftand for two or three days uncorked. Then cork them clofe, and they wili keep feveral months. Or you may proceed in this manner. Pick large green goofeberries on a dry day, and, having taken care that your bottles be clean and dry, fill your bottles and cork them. Set them in a kettle of water up to the neck, let the water boil very (lowly till you find the goofe¬ berries be codied; then take them out, and put in the reft of the bottles till all be done. Have, ready fome rofin melted in a pipkin, dip the neck of the bottles into it, which will keep all air from getting in at the cork. Keep them in a cool dry place free from damps, and they will bake as red as a cherry. You may keep them without fcalding; but then they will not bake fo fine, nor will the (kins be fo tender. To dry Artichoke Bottoms. JUST before the artichokes come to their full growth, pluck them from the (talks, which will draw out all the firings from the bottoms. Then boil them till you can pluck off the leaves eafiiy, then lay the bottoms on tins, and fet them in a cool oven. Repeat this till they be dry, which you may know by holding them up again ft the light, when, if they be dry enough, they will be tranfparent. Plang them up in a dry place, in paper bags. O To keep Walnuts. PUT a layer of fea-fand at the bottom of a large jar, and then a layer of walnuts ; then fand, then the nuts, and fo on till the jar be full ; but be fare they do not touch each other in any of the layers. When you want them for ufe, lay them in warm water for an hour, fluff the water as it cools, and rub them dry, and they will peel well, and eat fweet. Lemons will keep thus covered better than any other way. U 4 TV 2 9 s GARDEN STUFFS, &c. To bottle Green Currants. YOUR cu rrants muft be gathered when the fun be hot upon them. Strip them from the {talks, and put them into glafs bottles. Cork them clofe, let them in dry fand, and they will keep all the winter. To keep Muftorcorns. TAKE large buttons, walk them in the fame man-^ ner as for dewing, and lay them on fieves with the {talks upwards. Throw over them fome fait, to fetch out the water. When they be properly drained, put them in a pot, and fet them in a cool oven for an hour. Then take them out carefully, and lay them to cool and drain, Boil the liquor that comes out of them v/ith a blade or two of mace, and boil it half away, Put your mufh- rooms into a clean jar well dried, and when the liquor be cold, pour it into the jar, and cover your mufhrooms with it. Then pour over them rendered fuet, tie a blad¬ der over the jar, and let them in a dry clofet, where they will keep very well the greater part of the winter. When you life them, take them out of the liquor, pour over them boiling miik, and let them hand an hour. Then flew them in the milk a quarter of an hour, thicken them with flour, and a large quantity of butter j but be careful you do not oil it. Then beat the yolks of two eggs in a little cream, and put it into the ftew; but do not let it boil after you have putin the eggs. Lay untoafted fippets round the infide of the difli, then ferve them up, and they will eat nearly as good as when frefh gathered. If they do not tafte ftrong enough, put in a little of the liquor. This is a very ufeful liquor, as it will give a ftrong flavour of frefh mufhrooms to all made difhes. Another method of keeping mufhrooms is thus: Scrape, peel, and take out the infides of large flaps. Boil them in their own liquor, with a little fait, lay them in tins, fet them in a cool oven, and repeat it till tl-ey be dry. Then put them in clean jars, tie them . down clofe, and keep them for ufe. To GARDEN STUFFS, &c. 297 To bottle Cranberries. CRANBERRIES for this purpofe muft be ga¬ thered when the weather be quite dry, and put into dry clear bottles. Cork them up clofe, and put them in a dry place, where neither heat nor damps can get to them. To bottle Damjons. GAT HER your damfons on a dry day, before they be ripe, or rather when they have juft turned their co¬ lour. Put them into wide-mouthed bottles, cork them up clofely, and let them (land a fortnight. Then look them over, and if you fee any of them mouldy or fpot- ted, take them out, and cork the reft clofe down. Set the bottles in fand, and they will keep good till fpring. N. B. The method of preferving different kinds of fruits in fweets and jellies, will be found in the Third Part, under the Chapter of Preferving. PART [ 29 s ] / ♦ - PART lit / CONFECTIONARY in GENERA^. CHAP. I. The Preparation of Sugars. O prepare fugars properly is a material point in the A bufinefs of confectionary; and as fome rules are undoubtedly neceffary to be given in a work of this kind, we fhall begin with the firft procefs, that of clarifying fugar, which muft be done in this manner. Break the white of an egg into your preferving pan, put in four quarts of water, and beat it up to a froth with awhifk. Then put in twelve pounds of fugar, mix all together, let it over the lire, and when it boils put in a little cold water. Proceed in this manner as many times as may be neceffary till the fcum appears thick on the top. Then remove it from the fire, and let it fettle, take off the fcum, and pals it through a (training bag. If the fugar fhould not appear very fine, you muft boil it again before you (train it, otherwife, in boiling it to a height, it will rife over the pan. Having thus finifhed the firft operation, you may proceed to clarify your fugar to either of the five following degrees. Firft Degree, called Smooth cr Candy Sugar. HAVING clarified your fugar as above diredted, put what quantity you may have occalion for over the fire, and let it boil till it be fmooth. This you may know by dipping your fkimmer into the fugar, and then touching it between your fore-finger and thumb, and immediately opening them, you will fee a (mall thread dtawq \ SUGARS. 2 9'9 drawn between, which will immediately break, and re¬ main as a drop on your thumb. This will be a fign of its being in fome degree of fmoothnefs. Then give it another boiling, and it will draw into a larger firing, when it will have acquired the firft: degree above-men¬ tioned. Second Degree, called Blown Sugar. T O obtain this degree, you muft: boil your fugar longer than in the former procefs, and then dip in your fkimmer, (baking off what fugar you can into the pan. Then with your mouth blow ftrongly through the holes, and if certain bladders or bubbles blow through, it will be a proof of its having acquired the fecond degree. Third Degree, called Feathered Sugar. THIS degree is to be proved by dipping the fklm- mer, when the fugar has boiled longer than in the for¬ mer degree. Firft fhake it over the pan, then give it a fudden flirt behind you, and if it be enough, the fugar will fly off like feathers. Fourth Degree, called Crackled Sugar. HAVING let your fugar boil longer than in the preceding degree, dip a ftick into the fugar, and im¬ mediately put it into a pot of cold water, which you muft have Handing by you for that purpofe. Draw off the fugar that hangs to the ftick into the water, and if it become hard, and fnap in the water, it has acquired the proper degree; but, if otherwife, you muft boil it till it anfwers that trial. You muft take particular care that the water you ufe for this purpofe be very cold, otherwife it will lead you into errors. Fifth Degree, called Carmel Sugar. T O obtain this degree, your fugar muft boil longer than in either of the former operations. You muft prove it by dipping in a ftick, firft; into the fugar, and then into cold water; but this you muft obferve, that when it comes to the Carmel height, it will, the moment it touches the cold water, fnap like glafs, which is the higheft and TARTS and PUFFS. and iaft degree of boiled fugar. Take care that your fire be not very fierce when you boil this, left, flaming up the Tides of your pan, it fhould caufe the fugar to burn, which will difcolour and fpoil it. Little Dev tees in Sugar. STEEP gum-tragacanth in rofe-water, and with fome double-refined fugar make it up into pafte. You may colour your pafte with powders and jellies as your fancy fhall direCt you, and then make them up into what fliape you like. You may have moulds made in what fhape you pleafe, and they will be pretty ornaments placed on the tops of iced cakes. In the middle of them, put little pieces of paper, with fome pretty fmart fentences written on them, and they will afford much mirth to the younger part of a company. Sugar of Rofes in various Figures. CLIP off the white of rofe-buds, and dry them in the fun. Having finely pounded an ounce of them, take a pound of loaf fugar. Wet the fugar in rofe-water, and boil it to a candy height. Put in your powder of rofes, and the juice of a lemon. Mix all well together, put it on a pie-plate, and cut it into lozenges, or make it into any figure you fancy, fuch as men, women, or birds. If you want ornaments for your defert, you may gild or colour them to your liking. C H A P. II. TARTS, and PUFFS. Different Sorts of Farts. I N the fixteenth chapter of the firft part of this work, we have given fufficient directions for the making of puff pafte for tarts, and alfo the method of making tarts as TARTS and PUFFS. 301 as well as pies; what we have therefore here to mention concerns only tarts and puffs of the fmallerkind. If you make ufe of tin patties to bake in, butter them, and put a little cruft all over them, otherwife you cannot take them out; but if you bake them in glafs or china, you then need ufe only an upper-cruft, as you will not then want to take them out when you fend them to table. Lay fine fugar at the bottom, then your cherries, plums, or whatever fort you may want to put in them, and put fugar at the top. Then put on your lid, and bake them in a flack oven. Mince-pies muft be baked in tin pat¬ ties, becaufe of taking them out, and puff pafte is beft for them. Apples and pears, intended to be put into tarts, muft be pared, cut into quarters, and cored. Cut the quarters acrofs again, fet them on in a faucepan with as much water as will barely cover them, and let them fimmer on a flow fire juft till the fruit be tender. Put a good piece of lemon-peel into the water with the fruit, and then have your patties ready. Lay fine fugar at bottom, then your fruit, and a little fugar at top. Pour over each tart a tea-fpoonful of lemon juice, and three tea-fpoonfuls of the liquor they were boiled in. Then put on your lid, and bake them in a flack oven. Apricot tarts may be made the fame way, excepting that you muft not put in any lemon juice. When you make tarts of preferved fruits, lay in your fruit, and put a very thin cruft at top. Let them be baked but a little while; and if you would have them very nice, have a large patty, the fize of your intended tart. Make your fugar- cruft, roll it as thin as a halfpenny, then butter your patty, and cover it. Shape your upper-cruft on a hol¬ low thing made on purpofe, the fnape of your patty, and mark it with a marking-iron for that purpofe, in what fhape you pleafe, that it may be hollow and open to fhew the fruit through it. Then bake your cruft in a very flack oven, that you may not difcolour it, and have it crifp. When the cruft be cold, very carefully take it out, and fill it with what fruit you pleafe. Then lay on the lid, and your bufinefs will be done. Car- 302 TARTS and PUFFS. Currants y Cherries , Gcojeherry , and Apricot 'Tarts. CURRANTS and rafpberries make an excellent good tart, and do not require much baking. Cherries require but little baking. Goofeberries, to look red, mult Hand a good while in the oven. Apricots, if green, require more baking than when ripe. Preferved fruit, as damfons and bullace, require but little baking. Fruit that is preferved high, fhould not be baked at all ; but the cruft fhould firft be baked upon a tin of the fize the tart is to be. Cut it with a marking iron or not, and when cold take it off, and lay it on the fruit. Rhubarb Tarts. TAKE the ftalks of the rhubarb that grows in the garden, peel it, and cut it into the fize of a goofeberry, and make it as a goofeberry tart. Rafpberry Tart with Cream. HAVING rolled out feme thin puff pafte, lay it in a patty-pan ; lay in fome rafpberries, and ftrew over them fome very fine fugar. Put on the lid, and bake it. Cut it open, and put in half a pint of cream, the .yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little fugar. JLet it ftand to be cold before it is fent to the oven. Almond Tart. HAVING blanched fome almonds, beat them very fine in a mortar, with a little white wine and fome fugar, (a pound of fugar to a pound of almonds) fome grated bread, a little nutmeg, fome cream, and the juice of fpinach to colour the almonds green. Bake it in a gentle oven; and when it is done, thicken it with candied orange or citron. Green Almond Tarts. TAKE fome almonds off the tree before they begin to fhell ; ferape off the dow'n with a knife; have ready a pan with fome cold fpring water, and put them into it •as fait as they are done. Then put them into a fkillet, with more fpring water, over'a very flow fire, till it juft fimmers. Change the water twice, and let them be in the TARTS and PUFFS. the laft till they begin to be tender. Then take them out, and put them on a clean cloth, with another over them, and prefs them gently to make them quite dry. Then make a fyrup with double-refined fugar, put them into it, and let them fimmer a little. Do the fame the next day, put them into a ftone jar, and cover them very dole, for if the lead: air comes to them, they will turn black. The yellower they are before they are taken out of the water, the greener they will be after they are done. Put them into the fugar cruft, put the lid down clofe, and let them be covered with fyrup. Bake them in a moderate oven. Orange 'Tarts. TAKE a Seville orange, and grate a little of the outfide rind of it; fqueeze the juice of it into a difli, throw the peels into via ter, and change it often for four days. Then fet a faucepan of water on the fire, and when it boils, put in the oranges; but mind to change the water twice to take out the bitternefs. When they be tender, wipe them very well, and beat them in a mortar till they be fine. Then take their weight in double-refined fugar, boil it into a fyrup, and fcum it very clean. Then put in the pulp, and boil it all toge¬ ther till it be clear. Let it ftand to be cold, then put it into the tarts, and fqueeze in the juice. Bake them in a quick oven. Good tarts are made with conferve of oranges. Chocolate Tarts. RASP a quarter of a pound of chocolate, a flick of cinnamon, add fome frefti lemon-peel grated, a little fait, and fome fugar. Take two fpoonfuls of fine flour, and the yolks of fix eggs well beaten and mixed with fome milk. Put all thefe into a ftewpan, and let them be a little while over the fire. Then put in a little le¬ mon-peel cut fmall, and let it ftand to be cold. Beat up the whites of eggs, enough to cover it, and put it in puff pafte. When it be baked, ft ft fome fugar over it, and glaze it with a falamander. Angelica TARTS and PUFFS. « Angelica 'Tarts. TAKE fome golden pippins or nonpareils, pare and core them; take the (talks of angelica, peel them, and cut them into fmall pieces ; apples and angelica, of each an equal quantity. Boil the apples in juft to cover them, with lemon-peel and fin< them very gently till they be a thin fyrup, and then (train it oft. Put it on the fire, with the angelica in it, and let it boil ten minutes. Make a puff pafte, lay it at the bottom of the tin, and then a layer of apples and a layer of angelica till it be full. Bake them, but firft fill them up with fyrup. waterjpnough ■ lugar. Do v Spinach Tarts. SCALD fome fpinach in fome boiling water, and drain it very dry. Chop it, and (lew it in fome butter and cream, with a very little fait, fome fugar, fome bits of citron, and a very little orange-flower water. Put it in very fine puff pafte. Petit Patties. THESE are a very pretty garnilh, and give a hand- lome appearance to a large di(h. Make a fhort cruft, roll it thick, and make them as big as the bowl of a fpoon, and about an inch deep. Take a piece of veal big enough to fill the patty, and as much bacon and beef-fuet. Shred them all very fine, feafon them with pepper and fait, and a little fweet herbs. Put them into a little ftewpan, keep turning them about, with a few muflirooms chopped fmall, for eight or ten minutes. Then fill your patties, and cover them with cruft. Co¬ lour them with the yolk of an egg, and bake them. Some fill them with oyfters, for fi(h dffhes, or the melts pf the fifh pounded, and feafoned with pepper and fait. Curd Puffs. PUT a little rennet into two quarts of milk, and •when it be broken, put it into a coarfe cloth to drain. Then rub the curd through a hair fieve, and put to it four ounces of butter, ten ounces of bread, half a nut¬ meg, a, lemon- peel grated, and a fpoonful of wine. Sugar TARTS and PUFFS. 305 Sugar it to your tafte, rub your cups with butter, and put them for little more than half an hour into the oven. Sugar Puffs . BEAT the whites of ten eggs till they rile to a high froth. Then put them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, and add as much double refined fugar as will make it thick ; then rub it round the mortar for half an hour, put in a few carraway feeds, and take a fheet of wafers, and lay it on as broad as a fix-pence, and as high as you can. Put them into a moderately-heated oven half a quarter of an hour, and they will look as white as fnow. Wafers. TAKE afpoonful of orange-flower water, twolpoon- fuls of flour, two of fugar, and the fame of cream. Beat them well together for half an hour; then make your wafer tongs hot, and pour a little of your batter in to cover your irons. Bake them on a ftove fire, and as they be baking, roll them round a Hick like a fpiggot. When they be cold, they will be very crifp, and are very proper to be eat with jellies, or with tea. Chocolate Puffs. H AVIN G beat and fifted half a pound of double* refined fugar, fcrape into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix them together. Beat the white of an egg to a very high froth, and flrew in your fugar and cho¬ colate. Keep beating it till it be as ftiff as a pafte. Then fugar your paper, drop them on about the fize of a fix-pence, and bake them in a very flow oven. Almond Puffs. TAKE two ounces of fv/eet almonds, blanch them, and beat them very fine with orange-flower water. Beat the whites of three eggs to a very high froth, and then flrew in a little fifted fugar. Mix your almonds with your fugar and eggs, and then add more fugar till it be ■. as thick as a pafte. Lay it in cakes, and bake it in a cool oven on paper. X Lemon CAKES, 306 Lemon Puffs. TAKE a pound of double-refined fugar, beat k y and fift it through a fine fieve. Put it into a bowl, with the juice of two lemons, and beat them together. Then beat the white of an egg to a very high froth. Put it into your bowl, beat it half an hour, and then put in three eggs, with two rinds of lemons grated. Mix it well up, throw fugar on your papers, drop on the puffs in fmall drops, and bake them in an oven moderately hot. CHAP. III. C A K E S'. p Preliminary Hints and Objervations . B EFORE you begin to make any cake, take care that all your ingredients be got ready to your hand. Beat up your eggs well, and then do not leave them to go about any thing elfe till your cake be finifhed, as the eggs, by Handing unmixed, will require beating again, which will contribute to make your cake heavy. If you intend to .put butter in your cakes, be fure to beat it to a fine cream before you put in your fugar, other- wile it will require double the beating, and after all will not anfwer the purpofe fo well. Cakes made with rice, feeds, or plums, are belt baked in wooden garths; for, when baked either in pots or tins, the outfide of the cakes will be burned, and will befides be fo much con¬ fined, that the heat cannot penetrate into the middle of the cake, which will prevent it from rifing. All kinds of cakes muft be baked in a good oven, heated accord¬ ing to the fize of your cake. Jl rich CAKES, 307 A rich Cake. TAKE feven pounds of currants waihed and rubbed, four pounds of flour dried and' fifted, fix pounds of the belt frefh butter, and two pounds of Jordan almonds, blanched and beaten with orange-flower water till fine; four pounds of eggs, but leave out half the whites; three pounds of double-refined fugar beaten and fifted ; a quarter of an ounce of mace, the fame of cloves and cinnamon, and three large nutmegs, all beaten fine ; a little ginger, half a pint of lack, half a pint of French brandy, and fv/eetmeats,^ fuch as orange, lemon, and citron, to your liking. Befor£ you mix your ingredi¬ ents, work your butter to a cream. Then put in your fugar, and work them well together. Let your eggs be well beaten and framed through a fieve; work in your almqpds, then put in your eggs, and beat them toge¬ ther till they look white and thick. Then put in your fack, brandy, and fpices, fhake in your flour by de¬ grees, and when your oven be ready, put in your cur¬ rants and fweetmeats as you put it in your hoop. Put it into a quick oven, and four hours will bake it. Re¬ member to keep beating it with your hand all the time you be mixing it; and when your currants be well wafli- ed and cleaned, let them be kept before the fire, that they may go warm into the cake. This quantity will bake bell: in two hoops, it being too large for one. Plum Cake. T O a pound and a half of fine flour well dried, put the fame quantity of butter, three quarters of a pound of currants walked and well picjced ; ftone and flice half a pound of raifins, eighteen ounces of fugar beat and fifted, and fourteen eggs, leaving out hall the whites; ihred the peel of a large lemon exceedingly fine, three ounces of candied orange, the fame of lemon, a tea- fpoonful of beaten mace, half a nutmeg grated, a tea¬ cupful of brandy, or white wine, and four fpoonfuls ol orange-flower water. Firft work the butter with your hand to a cream, then beat your fugar well in, whilk your eggs for half an hour, then mix them with your X 2 fugar CAKES. joS fugar and butter, and put in your flour and fpices. The whole will take an hour and a half beating. When your oven be ready, mix in lightly your brandy, fruit, and fweetmeats, then put it into your hoop, and bake it two hours and a half. White Plum Cakes. TAKE two pounds of flour well dried, half that quantity of fugar beaten and fifted, a pound of butter, *a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs, the fame of mace, fixteen eggs, two pounds and a half of currants picked and wafhed, half a pound of fweet almonds, the fame of candied lemon, half a pint of fack or brandy, and three fpoonfuls of orange-flower water. Beat your but¬ ter to a cream, put in your fugar, beat the whites of your eggs half an hour, and mix them with your fugar and butter.. Then beat your yolks half an hour, and mix them with your whites, which will take two hours beating. Put in your flour a little before your oven be ready, and juft before you put it into your hoop, mix together lightly your currants, and all your other ingre¬ dients. It will take two hours baking. A Pound Cake. BEAT a pound of butter in an earthen pan with your hand one way, till it be like a fine thick cream. Then have ready twelve eggs, but leave out half the whites i beat them well, then beat them up with the but¬ ter, a pound of flour beat in it, a pound of fugar, and a few carrawavs. Beat all well together with your hand for an hour, or you may beat it with a wooden fpoon. Put all into a buttered pan, and bake it in a quick oven for one hour. Rice Cakes. BEAT the yolks of fifteen eggs for near half an hour with a whifk. Put to them ten ounces of loaf fugar fifted fine, and' beat it well in. Then put in half a pound of rice flour, a little orange-water or brandy, and the rinds of two lemons grated. Then put in feven whites, (having firft beaten them well near an hour with a wbifk) and beat them all well together for a quarter of an CAKES. 3 °<> an hour. Then put them in a hoop, and fet them for half an hour in a quick oven. Cream Cakes. TAKE the whites of nine eggs, and beat them to a ftiff froth. Stir it gently with a fpoon, left the froth fhould fall, and to every white of an egg, grate the rinds of two lemons. Shake in foftly a fpoonful of double- refined fugar, fifted fine, lay a wet fheet of paper on a tin, and with a fpoon drop the froth in little lumps on it, at a fmall diftance from each other. Sift a good quantity of fugar over them, fet them in an oven after brown bread, then make the oven clofe up, and the froth will rife. They will be baked enough as foon as they be coloured. Then take them out, and put two bot¬ toms together ; lay them on a fieve, and fet them to dry in a cool oven. If you choofe it, you may, before you clofe the bottoms together to dry, lay rafpberry-jam, or any kind of fweetmeats between them. Macaroons. TAKE a pound of fweet almonds blanched and beaten, and put to them a pound of fugar, and a little rofe-water to keep them from oiling. Then beat the whites of feven eggs to a froth, and put them in, and beat them well together. Drop them on wafer paper, grate fugar over them, and put them into the oven. s Lemon Bifcuits. TAKE the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of five, and beat them well together, with four fpoonfuls of orange-flower water, till they froth up. Then put in a pound of loaf-fugar fifted, beat it one way for half an hour or more, put in half a pound of flour, with the rafpings of two lemons, and the pulp of a fmall one. Butter your tin, and bake it in a quick oven ; but do not ftop up the mouth at firft, for fear it fhould fcorch. Duft it with fugar before you put it into the oven. X 3 French 3 l ° CAKE S. French Bifcuits. TAKE a pair of clean fcales, in one fcale put three new-laid eggs, and in the other the fame weight of dried flour. Have ready the fame weight of fine powdered fugar. Firft beat up the whites of the eggs well with a whifk, till they be of a fine froth. Then whip in half an ounce of candied lemon-peel cut very thin and fine, and beat well. Then, by degrees, whip in the flour and fugar; then put in the yolks, and with a fpoon temper them well together. Then flhape your bifcuits on fine white paper with your fpoon, and throw powdered fugar over them.. Bake them in a moderate oven, not too 0, hot, giving them a fine colour.on the top. When they be baked,, with a fine knife cut them off from the paper, and lay them up for ufe in dry boxes. Sponge Bifcuits. TAKE twelve eggs, and beat the yolks of them foi* half an hour. Then put in a pound and a half of fugar beat and lifted, and whifk it well till you fee it rife in bubbles. Then beat the whites to a flrong froth, and whifk them well with your fugar and yolks. Beat in fourteen ounces of flour, with the rinds of two lemons grated. Bake them in tin moulds buttered, and let them have a hot oven, but do not flop the mouth of it. They will take half an hour baking; but remember to fift pounded fugar over them before you put them into the oven. Drop Bifcuits,. TAKE the whites of fix eggs, and the yolks of ten. Beat them up with a fpoonful of rofe water for half an hour, and then put in ten ounces of beaten and fifted loaf fugar. Whifk them well for half an hour, and then add an ounce of carraway feeds crufhed a little, and fix ounces of fine flour. Whifk in your flour gently, drop them on wafer papers, and bake them in an oven mode¬ rately heated. v i ' * ^ Spanifh CAKES Spanijh Bifcuits. TAKE the yolks of eight eggs, and beat them half an hour, and then beat in eight fpoonfuls of fugar. Beat the whites to a flrong froth, and then beat them well, with your yolks and fugar near half an hour. Put in Jour fpoonfuls of flour, and a little lemon peel cut ex¬ ceedingly fine. Bake them on papers. Common Bifcuits. TAKE eight eggs, and beat them half an hour. Then put in a pound of beaten and fifted fugar, with ;the rind of a lemon grated. Whifk it an hour, or till •it looks light, and then put in a pound of flour., with a .little rofe water. / Sugar them over, and bake them in tins or on papers, •Gingerbread Cakes. TAKE three pounds of dour, a pound of fugar, the Jame quantity of butter rolled in very fine, two ounces of ginger beat fine, and a large nutmeg grated. Then take a pound of treacle, a quarter of a pint of cream, and make them warm together. Make up the bread ftiff, roll it out, and make it up into thin cakes. Cut .them out with a tea-cup or fmall glafs, or roll them round like nuts, and bake them in a flack oven on tin plates. Green Caps. HAVING gathered as many codlings as you want* iuft before they be ripe, green them in the fame man¬ ner as for preferving. Then rub them over with a little ,oiled butter, grate double-refined fugar over them, and fet them in the oven till they look bright, and fparkle like froft. Then take them out, and put them into a china difh. Make a very fine cuftard, and pour it round them. Stick fingle flowers in every apple, and ferve them up. This is, for either dinner or fupper, a pretty corner-difh. Black Caps. TAKE out the cores, and cut into halves twelve large apples. Place them on a thin patty -pan as clofely X 4 as CAKES. 312 as they can lie, with the flat fide downwards. Squeeze a lemon into two lpoonfuls of orange flower water, and pour it over them. Shred fome lemon-peel fine, and throw over them, and grate fine fugar over all. Set them in a quick oven, and half an hour will do them. Throw fine fugar all over the difh, when you fend to table. Bath Cakes . TAKE a pound of butter, and rub it into an equal weight of flour, with a fpoonful of good barm. Warm fome cream, and make it into a light pafte. Set it to the fire to rife, and when you make them up, take four ounces of carraway comfits, work part of them in, and ftrew the reft on the top. Make them into a round cake, the fize of a French roll. Bake them on Iheet tins, and they will eat well hot for breakfaft, or at tea in the afternoon. Portugal Cakes. TAKE a pound of fine flour, and mix it with a pound of beaten and fifted loaf-fugar. Then rub it into a pound of pure fweet butter till it be thick like grated white bread. Then put to it two lpoonfuls of rofe water, two of fack, and ten eggs. Whip them well with a whifk, and mix into it eight ounces of currants. Mix all well together, butter the tin-pans, and fill them about half full, and bake them. If they be made with¬ out currants, they will keep half a year. Add a pound of almonds blanched, and beat them with rofe-water, as above-dire£ted, but leave out the flour. Shrewjlury Cakes. BEAT half a pound of butter to a fine cream, and put in the fame weight of flour, one egg, fix ounces of beaten and fifted loaf-fugar, and half an ounce of car¬ raway feeds. Mix them into a pafte, roll them thin, and cut them round with a fmall glafs or little tins; .-.prick.them, lay them on fheets of tin, and bake them . in a flowmven. •» * , - *• ■* Saffron CAKES. 313 Saffron Cakes. x TAKE a quartern of fine flour, a pound and a half of butter, three ounces of carraway feeds, fix eggs well beaten, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace finely beaten together, a little cinnamon pounded, a pound of fugar, a little rofe water and faffron, a pint and a half of yeft, and a quart of milk. Mix all together lightly with your hands in this manner: Firft boil your milk and butter, then fkim off the butter, and mix it with your flour, and a little of the milk. Stir the yeft into the reft, and ftrain it. Mix it with the flour, put in your feeds and fpice, rofe-water, tindlure of faffron, fugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up lightly with your hands, and bake it in a hoop or pan well buttered. It will take an hour and an half in a quick oven. If you choofe it, you may leave out the feeds; and fome think the cake is better without them. Pruffian Cakes. TAKE half a pound of dried flour, a pound of beaten and fifted fugar, the yolks and whites of feven eggs beaten feparately, the juice of a lemon, the peels of two finely grated, and half a pound of almonds beat fine with rofe-water. As foon as the whites be beat to a froth, put in the yolks, and every thing elfe, except the flour, and beat them together for half an hour. Shake in the flour juft before you fet it into the oven; and be fure to remember to beat the yolks and whites of your eggs feparately, or your cake will be heavy. yjpricot Cakes . SCALD a pound of nice ripe apricots, and peel them, and take out the ftones as foon as you find the fkin will come off. Then beat them in a mortar to a pulp; boil half a pound of double-refined fugar, with a fpoonful of water, and fkim it exceedingly well. Then put in the pulp of your apricots, let them fimmer a quarter of an hour over a flow fire, and ftir it foftly all the time. Then pour it into fhallow flat glades, turn 5 shem 3 i4 CAKES, them out upon glafs plates, put them into a ftove, and turn them once a day till they be dry. Quince Cakes. TAKE a pint of the fyrup of quinces, and a quart or two of rafpberries. Boil and clarify .them over a gentle fire, taking care to fkim it as often as may be neceffary. Then add a pound and a half of fugar, and as much more, brought to a candy height, which muff be poured in hot. Conftantly ftir the whole about till it be almoft cold, and then fpread it on plates, and cut it out into cakes. Orange Cakes. QUARTER what quantity you pleale of Seville oranges that have very good rinds, and boil them in two or three waters until they be tender, and the bitter- nefs gone off. Skim them, and then lay them on a clean napkin to dry. Take all the fkins and feeds out of the pulp, with a knife, fhred the peels fine, put them to the pulp, weigh them, and put rather more than their weight of fine fugar into a tofling-pan, with juft as much water as will diffolve it. Boil it till it becomes a perfeft fugar, and then, by degrees, put in your orange-peels and pulp. Stir them well before you fet them on the fire; boil it very gently till it looks clear and thick, and then put them into flat-bottomed glaffes. Set them in a ftove, and keep them in a conftant and moderate heat ; and when they be candied on the top,* turn them out upon glaffes. Lemon Cakes. TAKE the whites of ten eggs, put to them three ipoonfuls of rofe or orange flower water, and beat them an hour with a whifk. Then put in a pound of beaten and fifted fugar, and grate into it the rind of a lemon. When it be well mixed, put in the juice of half a lemon, and the yolks* of ten eggs feat fmooth. Juft before you put it into the oven, ftir in three quarters of a pound of flour, butter your pin, piWt into a moderate oven, and an hour will bake it. mi may, if you choole it, make orange cakes in the fame manner. 4 fk * • Bride Bride Cakes. TAKE two pounds of loaf fugar, four pounds of frefh butter, and the fame quantity of fine well-driedl flour; pound and fift fine a quarter of an ounce of mace, the fame of nutmegs, and to every pound of flour put eight eggs ; wafh four pounds of currants, and pick them well, and dry them before the fire y blanch a pound of iweet almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin; a pound of citron, a pound of .candied orange, the fame of candied lemon, and half a pint of brandy. Firfi: work the butter to a cream with your hand, then beat in your fugar a quarter of an hour, and beat the whites of your eggs to a very ftrong froth. Mix them with your fugar and butter, beat your yolks half an hour at leaft, and mix them with your cake. Then put in your flour, mace, and nutmeg, and keep beating it well till your oven be ready.' Put in your brandy, and beat your currants and almonds lightly in. Tie three fheets of paper round the bottom of your hoop, to keep it from running out, and rub it we]l with butter. Then put in your cake, and lay your fweetmeats in three layers, with fome .cake between every layer. As foon as it be rifen and coloured, cover it wvith paper before your oven be covered up. It muft be baked three hours. If you choofe to put an icing on' it, you will find directions for that purpofe in the laft article of this chapter. , Little Fine Cakes. TAKE a pound of butter beaten to a cream, a pound and a quarter of flour, a pound of fugar beat fine, a pound of currants clean wafhed and picked, and the yolks of fix and the whites of four eggs. Beat them fine, and mix the flour, fugar, and eggs, by degrees, into the butter. Beat all well with both hands, and make them into little cakes. Or you.may make them thus: Take a pound, of flour, "and half a pound of fugar, beat half a pound of butter with your hand, and mix them •well together, ’ * Snow CAKES. ' Snow Balls. PARE and take out the cores of five large baking apples, and fill the holes with orange or quince mar¬ malade. Then make fome good hot pafte, roll your apples in it, and make your cruft of an equal thicknefs. Put them in a tin dripping-pan, bake them in a mode^ rate oven, and when you take them out, make icing for them, the fame as direfted in the laft article of this chapter. Let your icing be about a quarter of an inch thick, and fet them at a good diftance from the fire till they be hardened ; but take care you .do not let them brown. Put one in the middle of a difh, and the others round it. Little Plum Cakes. TAKE half a pound of fugar finely powdered, two pounds of flour well dried, four yolks and two whites of eggs, half a pound of butter wafhed with rofe water, fix fpoonfuls of cream warmed, and a pound and a half of currants unwafhed, but picked and rubbed very clean in a cloth. Mix all well together, then make them up into cakes, bake them in a hot oven, and let them ftand- half an hour till they be coloured on both fides. Then take down the oven lid, and let them ftand to foak. You muft rub the butter well into the flour, then the eggs and cream, and then the currants. Ratafia Cakes. FIRST blanch, and then beat half a pound of fweet almonds, and the fame quantity of bitter almonds, in fine orange, rofe, or ratafia water, to keep the almonds from oiling. Take a pound of fine fugar pounded and fifted, and mix it with your almonds. Have ready the whites of four eggs well beaten, and mix them lightly with the almonds and fugar. Put it into a preferving- pan, and fet it over a moderate fire. Keep ftirring it one way until it be pretty hot, and when it be a little cool, roll it in fmall rolls, and cut it into thin cakes. Dip your hands in flour, and fhake them on them ; give each of them a light tap with your finger, and put them CAKES, 317 them on fugar papers. Juft before you put them into a flow oven, ftft a little fugar over them. Nuns Cakes. TAKE four pounds of the fineft flour, and three pounds of double-refined fugar beaten and fifted. Mix them well together, and let them ftand before the fire till you have prepared your other materials. Then beat four pounds of butter with your hand till it be as foft as cream; beat the yolks of thirty-five eggs and the whites of fixteen, ftrain off your eggs from the treads, and beat them and the butter together till they be finely incorporated. Put in four or five fpoonfuls of orange flower or rofe water, and beat it again. Then take your flower and fugar, with fix ounces of carraway feeds, and ftrew them in by degrees, beating it up for two hours together. You may put in as much tindlure of cinna¬ mon as you pleafe. Then butter your hoop, and let it ftand three hours in a moderate oven. When you bear, butter, you muft always obferve to do it with a cool hand, and always beat it in a deep earthen difli one way. Seed Cakes. TAKE a pound of fugar beaten and fifted, the fame quantity of butter, the fame of well-dried flour, two ounces of carraway feeds, eight eggs, a nutmeg grated, and its weight of cinnamon. Firft beat your butter to a cream, then put in your fugar; beat the whites of your eggs half an hour, and mix them with your fugar and butter. Then beat the yolks half an hour, and put the whites to them. A little before it goes to the oven, beat in your flour, fpices, and feeds. The whole will take two hours beating. Put it into your hoop, and bake it two hours in a quick oven. ghieen Cakes. BEAT and fift a pound of loaf fugar, take a pound of well-dried flour, a pound of butter, eight eggs, half a pound of currants walhed and picked, grate a nutmeg, and the lame quantity of mace and cinnamon. Work , „ ■ . ' v i f your CAKES, ' 3 your butter to a cream, and put in your fugar. Beat the whites of your eggs near half an hour, and mix them with, your fugar and butter* Then beat your yolks near half an hour, and put them to your butter. Beat them • exceedingly well together, and when it be ready for the oven, put in your flour, fpice, and currants. Sift a little fugar over them,, and bake them in tins. Currant Cakes. DRY well before the fire a pound and a half of fine flour, take a pound of butter, half a pound of fine loaf fugar well beaten and fifted, four yolks of eggs, four fpoonfuls of rofe water, the fame of fack, a little mace, and a nutmeg grated. Beat the eggs well, and put them to the rofe W’ater and fack. Then put to it the fugar and butter. Work them all together, ftrew in the currants and flour, having taken'care to have them ready warmed for mixing. You may make fix or eight cakes of them ; but mind to bake them of a fine brown, and pretty crifp. Whigs, PUT half a pint of warm milk to three quarters of a pound of fine flour, and mix in it two or three fpoon¬ fuls of light barm. Cover it up, and fet it before the fire an hour, in order to make it rife. Work into the pafte four ounces of fugar, and the fame quantity of butter. Make it into whigs with as little flour as pofi- Able, and a few feeds, and bake them in a quick oven. Icings for Cakes. TAKE a pound of double-refined fugar pounded and fifted fine, and mix it with the whites of twenty- four eggs, in an earthen pan. Whifk them well for two or three hours till it looks white and thick, and then, with a thin broad board, or bunch of feathers, fpread it all over the top and fides of the cake. Set it at a pro¬ per diftance before a clear fire, and keep turning it continually that it may not turn colour; but a cool oven is befl, where an hour will harden it. Or you may make your icing thus: Beat the whites of three CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. 319 eggs to a ftrong froth, beat a pound of Jordan almonds very fine with rofe water, and mix your almonds with the eggs lightly together. Then beat a pound of loaf fugar very fine, and put it in by degrees. When your cake be enough, take it out, lay on your icing, and proceed as above directed. CHAP. IV. CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. Preliminary Hints and Ohjervations . T HE greateft care muft be taken in the making of cuftards, that your tolftng-pan be well tinned ; and always remember to put a fpoonful of water into your pan, to prevent your ingredients {ticking to the bottom of it; and what we have here faid of cuftards, muft be attended to in the making of creams, of which we {hall, treat in the next chapter. Cheefecakes muft not be made long before they be put into the oven, particu¬ larly almond or lemon cheefecakes, as {landing long will make,them grow oily, and give them a difagree- able appearance. They fhould always be baked in ovens of a moderate heat; for if the oven be too hot, it will burn them, and fpoil their beauty, and too Hack an oven will make them look black and heavy. This is a matter, however, for which no precife rules can be given, and can be learned only by cautious practice, and the niceft obfervations. Baked Cuftards. ROIL a pint of cream with fome mace and cinna¬ mon, and when it be cold, take four yolks and two whites of eggs, a little rofe and orange flower water and fack. 320 CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. fack, and nutmeg and fugar to your palate. Mix them well together, and bake them in cups. Almond Cujlards. BLANCH and beat a quarter of a pound of al¬ monds very fine, take a pint of cream, and two fpoon- fuls of role water. Then fweeten it to your palate, and beat up the yolks of four eggs. Stir all together one way over the fire till it be thick, and then pour it into cups. Plain Cujlards. SET a quart of good cream over a flow fire, with a little cinnamon, and four ounces of fugar. When it has boiled, take it off* the fire, beat the yolks of eight eggs, and put to them a fpoonful of orange flower water, to prevent the cream from cracking. Stir them in by degrees as your cream cools, put the pan over a very $ flow fire, ftir it carefully one way till it be almoft boil¬ ing, and then pour it into cups. Or you may make your cuftards in this manner t Take a quart of new milk, fweeten it to your tafte, beat up well the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four. Stir them into the milk, and bake it in china bafons. Or put them in a deep china difh, and pour boiling water round them, till the water be better than half way up their Tides; but take care the water does not boil too faff, left it fhould get into your cups, and fpoil your cuftards. Orange Cujlards. H AVIN G boiled very tender the rind of half a Seville orange, beat in a mortar till it be very fine. Put to it a fpoonful of the beft brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf fugar, and the yolks of four eggs. Beat them all well together for ten minutes, and then pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream. Keep beating them till they be cold, then put them in cuftard cups, and fet them in an earthen difh of hot water. Let them ftand till they be fet, then take them out, and flick preferved orange on the top. They may be ferved up either hot or cold. Lemon _• \ H -3SL ■ ' ‘ ■ ,1 CUSTARDS AND CHEESECAKES, jii / Lemon Cujiards. TAKE half a pound of double-refined fugar, the juice of two lemons, the out-rind of one pared very thin, the inner-rind of one boiled tender and rubbed through a fieve, and a pint of white wine.' Let them boil a good while, then take out, the peel and a little of the liquor, and let it to cool. Pour the reft into the difh you intend for it, beat four yoiks and xwo whites of eggs, and mix them with your cool liquor. Strain them into your difh, ftir them well up together, and fet them on a flow fire in boiling water. When it be enough, grate the rind of a lemon all over the top, and you may brown it over with a hot falamander. This, like the former, may be eaten either hot or cold. * Beejl Cujiards . SET a pint of beeft over the fire, with a little cin¬ namon, or three bay-leaves, and let it be boiling hot. Then take it oft', and have ready mixed a fpoonful of flour, and the fame of thick cream. Pour the hot beeft upon it by degrees, mix it exceedingly well together, and fweeten it to your tafte. You may bake it in either crufts or cups. Cheejecak.es . PUT a fpoonful of rennet into a quart of new milk, and fet it near the fire. Let the milk be blood warm, and when it be broken, drain the curd through a coarle fieve. Now and then break the curd gently with your Augers, and rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, the fame quantity of fugar, a nutmeg, aird two Naples bifeuits grated j the yolks of four eggs and the white of one, and an ounce of almonds weli beaten with two fpoonfuls of rofe water, and the fame of fack. Clean fix ounces of currants well, and put them into your curd. Mix all well together, and fend it to the oven. Citron Cheejeeakes. BEAT the yolks of four eggs, and mix them with a quart of boiled cream. When it be cold, let it on tire fire,, and let it boil till it curds. Blanch lbme almonds, JL ybcatr - 322 CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. beat them with orange flower water, put them into the cream, with a few Naples bifcuits, and green citron fhred fine. Sweeten it to your tafte, and bake them in cups. Lemon Cheejecakes . BOIL very tender the peel of two large lemons, and pound it well in a mortar, with a quarter of a pound of loaf-fugar, the yolks of fix eggs, half a pound of frefh butter, and a little curd beat fine. Pound and mix all together, lay a puff pafte in your patty-pans, fill them half full, and bake them. Orange cheefecakes are done the fame way; but then you muff boil the peel in two or three waters, to deprive it of its bitter tafte. Almond Cheejecakes. BLANCH four ounces of Jordan almonds, and put them into cold water. Beat them with rofe water in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, and put to it four ounces of fugar, and the yolks of four eggs beat fine. Work it in the bowl or mortar till it becomes frothy and white, and then make a rich puff pafte in this man¬ ner: Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, and rub a little of the butter into the flour. Mix it ftiff with a little cold water, then roll your pafte ftraight out, throw over it a little flour, and lay over it one third of your butter in thin bits. Throw a little mere flour over the butter, and do fo for three times. Then put your pafte in your tins, fill them, grate fugar over them, and put them in a gentle oven to bake. Curd Cheefecakes. BEAT half a pint of good curds with four eggs, three fpoonfuls *of rich cream, half a nutmeg grated, and a fpoonful of ratafia, rofe, or orange water. Put to them a quarter of a pound of fugar, and half a pound of currants well wafhed and dried before the fire. Mix them all well together, put a good cruft into your patty¬ pans. and bake them. Bread CUSTARDS and CHEESECAKES. 323 Bread Cheefecakes. H AV IN G fliced a penny loaf as thin as poffible, pour on it a pint of boiling cream, and let it (land two hours. Then take eight eggs, half a pound of butter, and a nutmeg grated. Beat them well together, and put in half a pound of currants well walked and dried before the fire, and a fpoonful of white wine or brandy. Then bake them in patty-pans or raifed cruft. \ Rice Cheefecakes. TAKE four ounces of rice, and having boiled it till it be tender, put it in a fieve to drain. Then put in four eggs well beaten, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, fix ounces of fugar, a nutmeg grated, and a glafs of brandy or ratafia water. Beat them all well together, then put them into raifed crufts, and bake them. Fine Cheefecakes. WARM a pint of cream, and put to it five quarts of milk warm from the cow. Then put to it rennet, give it a ftir about, and when it be turned, put the curd into a linen cloth or bag. Let it drain weft away from the whey, but do not fqueeze it too much. Then put it into a mortar, and break the curd as fine as butter. Put to the curd half a pound of fweet almonds blanched and beat exceedingly fine, and half a pound of maca¬ roons beat very fine but if you have no macaroons, ufe Naples bifcuits. Then add to it the yolks of nine eggs beaten, a nutmeg grated, two perfumed plums diflolved in rofe or orange flower water, and half a pound of fine fugar. Mix all well together, then melt a pound and a quarter of butter, and ftir it well in. Then make a puff pafte in this manner: Take a pound of fine flour, wet it with cold water, roll it out, put into it by de¬ grees a pound of frefh butter, and fhake a little flotir on each coat as you roll it. Then proceed to finifh your cake in the manner before direfted. If you have any diflike to the perfumed plums, you may leave them out. Y 2 CHAP. 32 4 CREAMS and JAMS, C H A P. V. CREAMS and JAMS. Steeple Cream „ T AKE two ounces of ivory, and five ounces of hartfhorn, and put them in a done bottle. Fill it up to the neck with water, and put in a fmall quantity" of gum arabic and gum tragacanth. Then tie up the bottle very clofe, and fet it into a pot of water, with hay at the bottom of it. Let it ftand fix hours, then take it out, and let it ftand an hour before you open it, left it fly in your face. Then drain it, and it will be a ftrong jelly. Take a pound of blanched almonds beat very fine, and mix it with a pint of thick cream. Let it ftand a little, then drain it out, and mix it with a pound of jelly. Set it over the fire till it be fcalding hot, and fweeten it to your tafte with double-refined fugar. Then take it off, put in a little amber, and pour it into fmall high gallipots like a fugar-loaf at tope When they be cold, turn them out, and lay cold whipt cream about them in heaps. Take care that it be not buffered to boil after the cream be put into it. Piftachio Cream . TAKE out the kernels of half a pound of piftachio nuts, and beat them in a mortar with a fpoonful of brandy. Put them into a tofting-pan, with a pint of good cream, and the yolks of two eggs beat fine. Stir it gently over a flow fire till it grows thick, and then put it into a China foup-plate. When it grows cold, ftick it all over with fmall pieces of the nuts, and it will be ready for table. Hartjhorn Cream. BOIL four ounces of hartfhorn fhavings in three pints of water till it be reduced to half a pint, and run it through a jelly bag. Then put tc it a pint of cream, and ♦ CREAMS and 'JAMS. 325 and let it juft boil up. Put it into jelly glaffes, let it ftand till it be cold, and then, by dipping your glades into fcalding water, it will flip out whole. Then {tick them all over with flices of almonds cut lengthways. It eats well, like flummery, with white wine and fugar. Burnt Cream. TAKE a little lemon-peel Aired fine, and boil it with a pint of cream and fome fugar. Then take the yolks of fix eggs and the whites of four, and beat them feparately. Put in your eggs as foon as your cream be cooled, with a fpoonful of orange flower water, and one of fine flour. Set it over the fire, keep flirting it till it be thick, and then put it into a difh. When it be cold, lift a quarter of a pound of fine fugar all over it, and jfalamander it till it be very brown. Barky Cream. BOIL a fmall quantity of pearl-barley in milk and water till it be tender, and then ftrain the liquor from it. Put your barley into a quart of cream, and let it boil a little. Then take the whites of five eggs and the yolk of one, beaten with a fpoonful of fine flour, and 'two fpoonfuls of orange flower water. Then take the cream off the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, and let it over the fire again to thicken. Then lweeten it to your tafte, and pour it into bafons for ufe. Ice Cream. TAKE twelve ripe apricots, pare, ftone, and fcald them, and beat them fine in a marble mortar. Put to them fix ounces of double-refined fugar, a pint of Raid¬ ing cream, and work it through a hair fieve. Put it into a tin that has a clofe cover, and fet it in a tub of Re broken fmall, and a large quantity of fait put among it. When you fee your cream grows thick round the edges of your tin, ftir it, and fet it in again tiil it grows quite thick. When your cream be all frozen up, take it out of the tin, and put it into the mould you intend it to be turned out of. Then put on the lid, and have ready another tub, with fait and ice in it as before. , Put Y 3 , your 326 CREAMS and JAMS your mould in the middle, and lay your ice under and over it. Let it Hand four or five hours, and dip your tin in warm water when you turn it out; but if it be fuminer, remember not to turn it out till the moment you want it. If you have not apricots, any other fruit will anfwer the purpofe, provided you take care to work them very fine in your mortar. A ’Trifle. COVER the bottom of a difh or bowl with Naples bifcuits broken into pieces, macaroons broken in half, and ratafia cakes. Juft wet them all through with fack, then make a good boiled cuftard, not too thick, and when cold, put it over it, and then a fyllabub over that. You may garnifh it with flowers, ratafia cakes, and cur¬ rant jelly. Others make it in this manner: Having placed three large macaroons in the middle of a difh, pour as much white wine over them as will perfedtly moiften them. Then take a quart of cream, and put in as much fugar as will fweeten it; but firft rub your fugar over the rind of a lemon to fetch out the efifence. Put your cream into a pot, mill it to a ftrong froth, and lay as much froth upon a fieve as will fill the difh you intend to put your trifle into. Put the remainder of your cream into a tofling-pan, with a flick of cinnamon, the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and as much fugar as will fweeten it. Set them over a gentle fire, ftir it one way till it be thick, and then take it off the fire. Pour it upon your macaroons, and when it be cold, put on your frothed cream, lay round it different coloured fweetmeats, and figures of what fort you pleafe. Tea Cream . % BOIL a quarter of an ounce of fine hyfon tea, with half a pint of milk. Then ftrain out the leaves, and put to the milk half a pint of cream, and two fpoonfuls of rennet. Set it over fome hot embers in the difh in which you intend to fend it to table, and cover it with a tin plate. When it be thick, it will be enough. You may garnifh it with fweetmeats. Ratafia 3 2 7 CREAMS and JAMS. N " Ratafia Cream. BOIL fix large laurel leaves in a quart of thick milk, with a little ratafia, and when it has boiled, throw away the leaves. Beat the yolks of five eggs, with a little cold cream, and fugar it to your take. Then thicken the cream with your eggs, fet it over the fire again, but do not let it boil. Keep Birring it all the while one way, till it be thick, and then pour it into China difhes to cool for ufe. Spanijh Cream. TAKE a quarter of a pint of rofe-water, and diffolve it in three quarters of an ounce of ifinglafs cut fmall. Run it through a hair fieve, and add to it the yolks of three eggs, beaten and mixed with half a pint of cream, two forrel leaves, and fugar it to your take. Dip the difh in cold water before you put in the cream, then cut it out with a jigging-iron, and lay it in rings round differently-coloured fweetmeats. Lemon Cream. TAKE the rinds of two lemons pared very\thin, the juice of three, and a pint of fpring-water. Beat the whites of fix eggs very fine, and mix them with the water and lemon. Then fugar it to your tafte, and keep Birring it till it thickens, but take care that you do not fuffer it to boil. Strain it through a cloth, beat the yolks of fix eggs, and put it over the fire to thicken. Then pour it into a bowl, and put it into your glaffes as foon as it be cold. Oranze Cream. o PARE off the rind of a Seville orange very fine, and fqueeze the juice of four oranges. Put them into a toffing-pan, with a pint of water, and eight ounces of fugar. Beat the white of five eggs, and mix all, and fet them over the fire. Stir it one way till it grows thick and white, then Brain it through a gauze, and Bir it till it be cold. Then beat the yolks of five eggs exceedingly fine, and put it into your pan, with fome cream. Stir it over a very flow fire- till it be ready to Y 4 boil. 323 CREAMS and JAMS. boil, then put it into a bafon to cool, and having ftirred it till it be quite cold, put it into your glaffes. Rafpberry Cream . RUB a quart of rafpberries, or rafpberry jam, through a hair fieve, to take out the feeds, and mix it well with cream. Put in fiigar to your tafte, and then put it into a milk-pot to raife a froth with a chocolate- mill. As your froth rifes, take it off with a fpoon, and lay it upon a hair fieve. When you have got as much froth as you want, put what cream remains into a deep China difh or punch-bowl, pour your frothed cream upon it as high as it will lie on, and (lick a light flower in the middle of it, Chocolate Cream , TAKE a quarter of a pound of the bed chocolate, and having fcraped it fine, put to it as much water as will diffolve it. Then beat it half an hour in a mortar, and put in as much fine fugar as will fweeten it, and a pint and a half of cream. Mill it, and as the froth rifes, lay it on a fieve. Put the remainder of your cream in pqflfet glaffes, and lay the frothed cream upon them. Whip Cream . TAKE the whites of eight eggs, a quart of thick crearm and half a pint of fack. Mix it together, and fweeten it to your tafte with double-refined fugar. You may perfume it, it you pleafe, with a little mufk or am¬ bergris tied in a rag, and fteeped a little in the cream. Whip it up with a whitk, and fome lemon-peel tied in the middle of the whifk. Take the froth with a fpoon, and lay it in your glaffes or batons, This makes q pretty appearance oyer fine tarts, Pompadour Cream, TA K E the whites of five eggs, and beat them to a firong froth. Then put them into a toffmg-pan, with two fpoonfuls of orange flower water, and two ounces of fugar. Stir it gently for three or four minutes, then pour it into your difh, and pour good melted butter oyer CREAMS and JAMS. 329 over it. This is a pretty corner difh for a fecond courfe. at dinner, and mud be ierved up hot, §now and Cream, H AVI N G made a rich boiied cuftard, put it into a China or glafs difh, Then take the whites of eight eggs beaten with rofe water and a fpoonful of treble-re¬ fined fugar, till it be of a ftrong froth. Put fome milk and water into a broad ftewpan, and as foon as it boils, take the froth off the eggs, lay it on the milk and wa¬ ter, and let it boil once up, Then take it off' carefully, and lay jtron your cuftard. This is a pretty fupper difh. Cream Cheefe, T O five quarts of afterings put one large fpoonful of fteep, and break it down light. Then puc it upon a cloth on a fieve bottom, and let it run till dry. Break it, cut and turn it in a clean doth. Then put it into the fieve again, and put on it a two-pound weight, fprinkle a little fait on it, and let it ftand all night. Then lay it on a board to dry, and when it be dry, lay a few ftrawberry leaves on it, and ripen it between two pewter difhes in a warm place. Turn it, and put on trefti leaves every day, Goofebeny Jam, CUT in two, and pick out the feeds of green wal¬ nut goofeberries, gathered when they be full grown, but not ripe. Put them into a pan of water, green them, and put them into a fieve to drain. 1 hen beat them in a marble mortar, with their weight in fugar. Take a quart of goofeberries, boil them to a mafia in a quart of water, fqueeze them, and to every pint of liquor put a pound of fine loaf fugar. Then boil and fkim it, put. in your green goofeberries, and having boiled them till they be very thick, clear, and of a pretty green, put them into glalfes. Apricot Jam , HAVING procured fome of the ripeft apricots, pare and cut them thin. Alien infufe them in an earthen 6 pan 33 ° CREAMS and JAMS. r pan till they be tender and dry. To every pound and a half of apricots, put a pound of double-refined fugar, and three lpoonfuls of water. Boil 1 your fugar to a candy height, and then put it upon your apricots. Stir them over a flow fire till they look clear and thick ; but obferve, that they muff only fimmer, and not boil. You may then put them into your glaffes. Strawberry Jam. BRUISE very fine fome fcarlet ftrawberries gather¬ ed when they be very ripe, and put to them a little juice of ftrawberries. Beat and ftft their weight in fugar, ftrew it among them, and put them into the preferving- pan. Set them over a clear flow fire, fkim them, and boil them twenty minutes, and then put them into glaffes. White Rajpberry Jam. 6 AT HER your rafpberries on a fine day, and when they be full ripe. Crufh them fine, and ftrew in their own weight of loaf fugar, and half their weight of the juice of white currants. Boil them half an hour over a clear flow fire, fkim them well, and put them into pots or glaffes. Tie them down with brandy papers, and keep them dry. As foon as you have gathered your berries, ftrew on your fugar, and do not let them {land long before you boil them, if you wifh their fine flavour fliould be preferved. Red Raspberry Jam. O B SERVE the fame precautions in gathering thefe as above recommended. Pick them very carefully from the {talks, crufh them in a bowl with a filvcr or wooden fpoon, then ftrew in their own weight of loaf fugar, and half their weight of red currant juice baked and drained as for jelly. Then fet them over a clear flow fire, boil them half an hour, fkim them well, and keep ftirring them all the time. Then put them into pots or glaffes as above directed. Black • JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. 331 Black Currant Jam. YOUR black currants muft be gathered dry and full ripe, and picked clear from the ftalks. Then bruife them well in.a bowl, and to every two pounds of cur¬ rants put a pound and a half of loaf fugar finely beaten. Put them into a preferving-pan, boil them half an hour, fkim and ftir them all the time, and then put them into pots. BWBWB CHAP. VI. JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. Blanc Mange. T HIS jelly is made three different ways, the firft of which is called greeny and is thus prepared from ifinglafs. Having dilfolved your ifinglafs, put to it two ounces of fweet and the fame quantity of bitter almonds, with a fufficient quantity of the juice of fpinach to make it green, and a fpoonful of French brandy. Put it over a ftove fire till it be almoft ready to boil, then ftrain it through a gauze fieve, and when it grows thick, put it into a melon mould, and the next day turn it out. You may ufe red and white flowers fora garnifh. The fecond method of preparing blanc mange is alfo from ifinglafs. Take a quart of water, put into it an ounce of ifinglafs, and let it boil till it be reduced to a pint. Then put in the whites of four eggs, with two fpoonfuis of rice-water to keep the eggs from poaching, and fugar it to your tafte. Run it. through a jelly bag, then put to it two ounces of fweet and one ounce of bitter almonds. Give them a fcald in your jelly, and put them through a hair fieve. Then put it into a China 332 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. China bowl, and the next day turn it out, flick it all over with almonds blanched and cut lengthways, and garnifh with flowers or green leaves. The third kind of blanc mange is called ckar> and is thus prepared. Skim off the fat, and drain a quart of ftrong calf's feet jelly. Then beat the whites of four eggs, and put them to your jelly. Set it over the fire, and keep flirting it till it boils. Then pour it into a jelly bag, and run it through feveral times till it be clear* Beat an ounce of fweet and the fame quantity of bitter almonds to a pafle, with a fpoonful of role water lqueezed through a cloth. Then mix it with the jelly, and add to it three fpoonfuls of very good cream. Set it again over the fire, and keep ftirring it till it be almoft boil¬ ing. Then pour it into a bowl, flir it very often till it be almoft cold, and then fill your moulds, having firll wetted them, ' Grange Jelly. INTO two quarts of fpring water put a pound of hartfhorn fhavings, and let it boil till it be reduced to a quart. - Then pour it clear off, and let it (land till it be cold. Take the rind of three oranges pared very thin, and the juice of fix, and let them (land all night in half a pint of fpring water. Then drain them through a fine hair ficve, melt the jelly, and pour the orange liquor to it. Sweeten it to your tafte with double-re¬ fined fugar, and put to it a blade or two of mace, four or five cloves, half a fmall nutmeg, and the rind of a lemon. Beat the whites of five or fix eggs to a froth, mix it well with your jelly, and fet it over a clear fire. Boil it three or four minutes, then run it through your jelly bags feveral times till it be clear; but take great care that you do not fhake it when you pour it into your bags. Fruit in Jelly . TAKE a bafon, put into it half'a pint of clear ft iff calf’s feet jelly, and when it be fet and ftiff, lay in three fine ripe peaches, and a bunch of grapes with the ftalk ^upwards. Put over them a few vine leaves, and then fill JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. 333 fill up your bowl with jelly. Let it (land till the next day, and then fet your bafon to the brim in hot water. As foon as you perceive it gives way from the baton, lay your difh over it, and turn your jelly carefully upon it. You may ufe flowers for your garnith. Calf's Feet Jelly. TAKE two calf’s feet, and boil them in a gallon of water till it comes to a quart. Yv 7 hen it be cold, fidm off all the fat, and take the jelly up clean. Leave what fettling may remain at the bottom, and put the jelly into a faucepan, with a pint of mountain wine, half a pound of loaf fugar, and the juice of four lemons. Beat up fix or eight whites of eggs with a whifk, then put them into the faucepan, ftir all well together till it boils, and let it boil a few minutes. Pour it into a large flan¬ nel bag, and repeat it till it runs clear. Then have ready a large China bafon, and put into it lemon-peel cut as thin as poflible. Let the jelly run into the bafon, and the lemon-peel-will give it an amber colour, and a fine flavour. Then fill your glafles. A Turkey in Jelly. BOIL as fine a turkey as you can get, and let it Hand till it be cold. Have ready a jelly made thus: Skin a fowl, and take off all the fat; but do not cut it in pieces, nor break all the bones. Take four pounds of a leg of veal, without either fat or fkin, and put it into a well tinned faucepan. Put to it full three quarts of water, and fet it on a very clear fire till it begins to jammer; but be fure to fleim it well, and take great care that it does not boil. Put to it two large blades of mace, half a nutmeg, and twenty corns of white pepper, with a little bit of lemon-peel. Let it fimrner fix or feven hours, and when you think the jelly be fluff enough, which may be known by taking a little out to cool, be fure to fkim off all the fat, if any, but* do not ftir the meat in the faucepan. A quarter of'an hour before it be done, throw in a large tea-fpoonful .of fait, and fqueeze in the juice of half a fine Seville orange or le¬ mon. When you think it be enough, (train it off through a clean 334 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. a clean fieve; but do not pour it off clean to the bottom, for fear of fettlings. Lay the turkey in the difh, in ■which you intend to fend it to table, and then pour your jelly over it. Let it (land till it be quite cold, and then fend it to table. A few nadurtium flowers duck in dif¬ ferent parts of it give it a pretty appearance; but thefc, as well as lemon, and all other kinds of garnifh, are merely at the will of fancy. All forts of birds and fowls may be done in this manner, and are very pretty difhes for a lupper or cold collation. Gilded Fifh in Jelly. FILL two large fifh-moulds with clear blanc mange, made as direfted in the beginning of this chapter. When it be cold, turn them out, and gild them with leaf-gold, or drew them over with gold and filver bran mixed. Then lay them on a foup-difh, and fill it with thin clear calPs feet jelly, which muft be fo thin as to admit the fifh to fwim in it. If you have no jelly, Lifbon, or any kind of pale made-wine, will anfwer the purpofe. Black Currant Jelly. GATHER your currants on a dry day when they be ripe, ftrip them off the ftalks, and put them into a large dewpot. Put a quart of water to every ten quarts of currants, tie a paper over them, and fet them in a cool oven for two hours. Then fqueeze them through a very fine cloth, and to every quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf-fugar broken into fmall pieces. Stir it gently till the fugar be melted, and when it boils, fkim it well. Let it boil pretty quick for half an hour over a clear fire, then pour it into pots, and put brandy papers over them. Red Currant Jelly.- GATHER your currants, and drip them off'the ffalks, as before directed. Put them into a large dew- pot, tie paper over them, and let them dand an hour in a cool oven. Then drain them through a cloth, and to every quart of juice add a pound and a half of loaf fugar broken into fmall lumps. Stir it gently over a clear JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. 33$ clear fire till your fugar be melted, fkim it well, and let it boil pretty quick for twenty minutes. Then pour it hot into your pots; for if you let it Hand to cool, it will break the jelly, and will not fet fo well as when it be hot. Put brandy papers over them, and’ keep them in a dry place. You may in the fame manner, if you choofe it, make a pretty jelly of half white and half red currants. Ribband Jelly. TAKE four calf’s feet, take out the great bones, and put the feet into a pot with ten quarts of water, three ounces of hartlhorn, the fame quantity of ifinglafs, a nutmeg quartered, and four blades of mace. Boil it till it comes to two quarts, then drain it through a flan¬ nel bag, and let it Hand twenty-four hours. Then fcrape off all the fat from the top very clean, flice the jelly, and put to it the whites of fix eggs beaten to a froth. Boil it a little, and drain it through a flannel bag. Then run the jelly into little high glaffes, and run every co¬ lour as thick as your finger; but obferve, that one co¬ lour mud be thoroughly cold before you put on another; and that which you put on mud be but blood-warm, otherwife they will mix together. Y’ou mud colour red with cochineal, green with fpinach, yellow with faffron, blue with lyrup of violets, white with thick cream, and fometimes the jelly by itfelf. Hen and Chickens in Jelly. HAVING made fome flummery with plenty of fweet almonds in it, colour part of it brown with cho¬ colate, and put it into a mould of the ffiape of a hen. Then colour fome more flummery with the yolk of a hard egg beat as fine as poflible, and leave fome of your flummery white. Then fill the moulds of feven chickens, three with white flummery, three with yellow, and one of the colour of the hen. When they be cold, turn them into a deep dilh, and put round them lemon- peel boiled tender and cut like draw. Then put a little clear calf’s feet jelly under them, to keep them to their 3 places, -fjk 33<5 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. places. Let it ftand till it be ftiff, and then fill up your difh with more jelly. Hartjhorn Jelly. TAKE half a pound of hartfhorfi, and boll it in three quarts of water over a gentle fire till it becomes a jelly. If you take out a little to cool, and it hangs on the fpoon, it is enough. Strain it while it be hot, and put it in a well-tinned faucepan. Put to it a pint of Rhenifh wine, and a quarter of a pound of loaf fugar. Beat the whites of four eggs or more to a froth, ftir it all together, that the whites may mix well with the jelly, and pour it in as if you were cooling it. Let it boil two or three minutes, then put in the juice of three or four lemons, and let it boil a minute or two longer. When it be finely curdled, and of a pure white colour, pour your jelly into a fwan-fkin jelly-bag over a bowl or a bafon. Strain it in this manner feveral times till it be as clear as rock-water, and then fill your glades with a fpoon. Have ready the thin rind of fome lemons, and when you have filled half your glades, throw your peel into the bafon. When your jelly be all run out of the bag into the bafon, fill the reft of the glaffes with a clean fpoon, and the lemon-peel will give your-jelly a fine amber colour. No rule is to be given for putting in the ingredients, as tafte and fancy only can determine it; but moft people like to have them fweet, and indeed they are infipid if they be not fo. Flummery. TAKE an ounce of bitter and the fame quantity of fweet almonds, put them into a bafon, and pour over them fome boiling water to make the Ikins come off. Then ftrip off the Ikins, and throw the kernels into cold water. Take them out, and beat them in a marble mortar, with a little role water to keep them from oil¬ ing, and when they be beat, put them into a pint of calf’s feet ftock. Set it over the fire, and fweeten it to your tafte with loaf fugar. As foon as it boils, ftrain it through a piece of mufiin or gauze, and when it be a little cold, put it into a pint of thick cream, and keep ftirring JELLIES amd SYLLABUBS. 337 ftirring it often till it grows thick and cold. Wet your moulds in cold water, and pour in the flummery. Let them {land about fix hours before you turn them out; and if you make your flummery ftiff, and wet your moulds, it will turn out without putting them into warm water, which will be a great advantage to the look of the figures, as warm water gives a dullnefs to the flum¬ mery., » / French Flummery. BEAT half an ounce of ifinglafs 'fine, put to it a quart of cream, and mix them well together. Let it boil foftly over a flow fire for a quarter of an hour, and keep ftirring it all the time. Then take it off, fweeten it to your tafte, and put in a fpoonful of role water, and another of orange flower water. Strain it, and pour it into a glafs or bafon, or whatever elfe you pleafe, and when it be cold, turn it out. Green Melon in Flummery. PUT plenty of bitter almonds into a little ftiff flum¬ mery, and add to it as much juice of fpinach as will make it of a fine pale green. When it becomes as thick as good cream, wet your melon mould and put it in. Then put a pint of clear calf’s feet jelly into a large bafon, and let them ftand till the next day. Then turn out your melon, and lay it down in the middle of your bafon of jelly. Then fill up your bafon with jelly that is beginning to fet, and let it ftand all night. The next day, turn it out the fame way as the fruit in jelly. Make a garland of flowers, and put it on your jelly. Solomon's Femple in Flummery. DIVIDE a quart of ftiff flummery into three carts, and make one part a pretty thick colour with a little cochineal bruifed fine, and fteeped in French brandy. Scrape an ounce of chocolate very fine, difiolve it in a little ftrong coffee, and mix it with another part of your flummery, to make it a light ftone colour. The laft part mu ft be white. Then wet your temple mould, and fit it in a pot to ftand even. Fill the top of the Z temple 338 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. temple with red flummery for the Heps, and the four points with white. Then fill it up with chocolate flum¬ mery, and let it Hand till the next day. Then loofen it round with a pin, and fhake it loofe very gently ; but do not dip your mould in warm water, as that will take off’the glofs, and fpoil the colour. When you turn it out, flick a fmall fprig of flowers, down from the top of every point, which will not only {Lengthen it, but alfo give it a pretty appearance. Lay round it rock candy fweetmeats. Eggs and Bacon in Flummery. MAKE part of a pint of ftiff flummery of a pretty pink colour with cochineal. Then dip a potting-pan in cold water, and pour in red flummery to the thicknefs of a crown-piece; then the fame of white flummery, and another of red, and twice the thicknefs of white flummery at the top. Remember that one layer mud be ftiff and cold before you put on another. Then take five tea-cups, and put a large fpoonful of white flummery into each of them, and let them ftand all night. Then turn your flummery out of your potting- pots, on the back of a plate, with cold water. Cut your flummery into thin flices, and lay it on \ China difh. Then turn your flummery out of your cups on the difh, and take a bit out of the top of every one, and lay in half a preferred apricot, which will confine the fyrup . difcolouring the flummery, and make it look like the yolk of a poached egg. You may garnifh with flowers, or what your fancy leads you to. A Hedge Hog. BEAT well in a mortar two pounds of blanched al¬ monds, with a little canary and orange flower water to keep them from oiling. Having made them into a ftiff pafte, beat in the yolks of twelve eggs and feven whites. Put to it a pint of cream, fweeten it with fugar, and fet it on a flow fire. Keep it conftantly ftirnag till it be thick enough to make into the form of a hedge-hog. Then flick it fi 11 of blanched almonds, flit and ftuck up like the bridles of a hedge-hog, and then put it into a difh. JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. 339 a difh. Take a pint of cream, and the yolks of four eggs beat up, and fweeten them with fugar to your pa¬ late. Stir them together over a flow fire till it be quite hot, and then pour it into the difh round the hedge-hog, and let it Hand till it be cold. Savory Jelly. PUT into a ftew-pan fome flices of lean veal and ham, with a carrot and turnip, or two or three onions. Cover it, and let it lweat on a flow fire, till it be of as deep a brown as you would have it. Then put to it a quart of very clear froth, fome whole pepper, mace, a very little ifinglafs, and fait to your palate. Let it boil ten minutes, then ftrain it through a French (trainer, (kim off all the fat, and put it to the whites of three eggs. Then run it feveral times through a jelly-bag till it be perfectly clear. Solid Syllabubs. PUT in a pint of white wine to a quart of rich cream, the juice of four lemons, and fugar it to your tafte. Whip it up well, take off the froth as it rifes, and put it upon a hair fieve. Let it (land till the next day in a cool place, then fill your glaffes better than half full with the thin, put on the froth, and heap it as high as you can. It will keep feveral days, and the bottom look clear. Syllabub under the Cow. PUT into a punch-bowl a pint of cider and a bottle of ftrong beer. Grate in a fmall nutmeg, and fweeten it to your tafte. Then milk from the cow as much milk as will make a ftrong froth. Then let it ftahd an hour, drew over it a few currants well wafhed, picked, and plumped before the fire, and it will be fit for fervice. Wh'vpt Syllabubs. RUB a lump of loaf-fugar on the ontfide of a lemon, put it into a pint of thin cream, and fweeten it to your tafte. Then put in the juice of a lemon, and a glafs of Madeira wine, or French brandy. Mill it to a froth Z 2 with 340 JELLIES and SYLLABUBS. with a chocolate mill, and take it off as it rifes, and lay* it into a hair fieve. Then fill one half of your poffiet- glaiTes a little more than half full with white wine, and the other half of your glaffes a little more than half full with red wine. Then lay on your froth as high as you can ; but take care that it be well drained on ycur fieve, otherwife it will mix with your wine, and your fyllabub will be thereby fpoiled. Lemon Syllabubs. RUB a quarter of a pound of loaf fugar upon the cut-rind of two lemons, till you have got all the effence out of them, and then put the fugar into a pint of cream, and the fame quantity of white wine. Squeeze in the juice of both lemons, and let it ftand for two hours. Then mill it with a chocolate mill to raife the froth, and take it off with a fpoon as it rifes, or it will make it heavy. Lay it upon a hair fieve to drain, then fill your glaffes with the remainder, and lay on the froth as high as you can. Let them ftand all night, and they will be clear at the bottom. Everlafting Syllabubs. TAKE half a pint of Rhenifh wine, half a pint of fack, with the juice of two large Seville oranges, and put them into two pints and a half of thick cream. Grate in juft the yellow rind of three lemons, and put in a pound of double-refined fugar well beaten and fifted. Mix all together, „with a fpoonful of orange flower wa¬ ter, and with a whifk beat it well together for half an hour. Then, with a fpoon, take off the froth, and lay it on a fieve to drain, and then fill your glaffes. Thefe will keep better than a week, and fhould always be made the day before they be wanted. The bed way to whip a fyllabub is, have a fine large chocolate-mill, which you muft keep orr purpofe, and a large deep bowl to mill them in, as this way they will be done the quicker, and the froth be the ftronger. For the thin that be left at the bottom, have ready fome calf’s feet jelly boiled and clarified, in which muft be nothing but 'the calf’s feet boiled to a hard jelly* When it be cold, take oft* the PRESERVING. 34i the fat, clear it with the whites of eggs, run it through a flannel bag, and mix it with the clear that was left of the fyllabub. Sweeten it to your palate, and give it a boil; then pour it into batons, or what you pleafe. When cold,, turn it out, and it will be a flne flummery. CHAP. VII. PRESERVING. Preliminary Hints and Obfervaticns. J N making of fyrups for preferves, take care to pound your fugar, and let it diflfolve in the fyrup before you fet it on the fire, as it will make the 11dm rife well, and your fyrup will be of a better colour. It is a great fault to boil any kind of fyrups or jellies too high, as it makes them dark and cloudy. Never keep green fweetmeats longer in the flrfl fyrup than directed, as it will fpoil their colour; and the fame precaution will be neceifary in the preferving of oranges and lemons. When you preferve cherries, damfons, or any other fort of ftone-fruits, put over them mutton fuet rendered to keep out the air; for if any air gets to them, it will give them a four tafte, and fpoil the whole. Wet fweet¬ meats muft be kept in a dry and cool place; for a damp place will mould them, and a hot place will deprive them of their virtue. It is a good method to dip writ¬ ing-paper into brandy, and lay it clofe to the fweetmeats. They fnould be tied well down with white paper, and two folds of cap-paper, to keep out the air, as nothing can be a greater fault than leaving the pots open, or tying them down carelefsly. Z 3 Goo/e- 342 PRESERVING. Goofeberries. IF your intention be to preferve your goofeberries whole without ftoning them, take the largtft you can get, and pick oft' the black eye, but not the ftaik. Then let them over the fire in a pot of water to lcald, but take care they do not boil, for that will break and fpoil them. When they be tender, take them up, and put them into cold water. Then take a pound and a half of double-refined fugar to a pound of goofeberries, and clarify the fugar with water, a pint to a pound of fugar. When your fyrup be cold, put the goofeberries fingly into your preferving-pan, put the fyrup to them, and fet them on a gentle fire. Let them boil, but not fo fail as to break them; and when they have boiled, and you perceive that the fugar has entered them, take them off, cover them with white paper, and fet them by till the next day. Then take them out of the fyrup, and boil the fyrup till it begins to be ropy. Skim it, and put it to them again. Then fet them on a gentle fire, and let them fimmer gently till you perceive the fyrup will rope. Then take them off, fet them by till they be cold, and then cover them with brandy paper. Then boil forne goofeberries in fair water, and when the liquor be ftrong enough, ftrain it out. Let it Hand to fettle, and to every pint, take a pound of double-refined fugar, and make a jelly of it. When the goofeberries be cold, put them in glafles, cover them with the jelly, and clofe them down properly. Green goofeberries may thus be preferved in imita¬ tion of hops. Take the ktrgeft green walnut goofeber¬ ries you can get, and cut them at the ftalk-end in four quarters. Leave them whole at the bloflom end, take out all the feeds, and put five or fix one in another. Take a needleful of ftrong thread, with a large knot at the end ; run the needle through the bunch of goofe¬ berries, tie a knot to fallen them together, and they will refemble hops. Put cold fpring-water into your pan, with a large handful of vine leaves at the bottom ; then three or four layers of goofeberries, with plenty of vine leaves PRESERVING. 343 leaves between every layer, and over the top of your pan. Cover it lb that no {team can get out, and fet them on a flow fire. Take them off as foon as they be Raiding hot, and let them hand till they be cold. Then fet them on again till they be of a good green, then take them off, and let them Hand till they be quite cold. Put them into a fieve to drain, and make a thin fyrup thus. To .every pint of water, put in a pound of com¬ mon loaf fugar, and boil it and fkim it well. When it be about half cold, put in your goofeberries, and let them Hand till the next day. Then give them one boil a-day for three days. Then make a fyrup thus : To every pint of water put in a pound of fine fugar, a flice of ginger, and a lemon-peel cut lengthways exceedingly fine. Boil and fkim it well, give your goofeberries a boil in it, and when they be cold, put them into glaffes or pots, lay brandy paper over them, and tie them up clofe. Red goofeberries are thus preferved. Take a pound of loaf fugar, put it into a preferving-pan, with as much water as will diffolve it, and boil and fkim it well. Then put in a quart of rough red goofeberries, ana let them boil a little. Set them by till the next day, then boil « them till they look clear, and the fyrup thick. Then put them into pots or glaffes, and cover them with brandy paper. Raspberries. IF it be the red fort of rafpberries you intend to prcferve, gather them on a dry day when they be juft turning red, with the {talks on about an inch long. Lay them fingly on a difh, beat and fift their weight of double- refined fugar, and ltrew it over them. To every quart of rafpberries take a quart of red currant jelly juice, and put to it its weight of double refined fugar. Boil and fkim it well, then put in your rafpberries, and give them a fcald. Take them off, and let them ftand for two hours. Then fet them on again, and make them a little hotter. Proceed in this manner two or three times till they look clear; but do not let them boil, as that will make the {talks come off. When they be tolerably Z 4 cool. 344 PRESERVING. cool, put them into jelly glafies, with the (talks down¬ wards. White rafpberries may be preferved in the fame manner, only ufing white currant juice inftead of red. Currants. -v _ RED currants are thus preferved in bunches. Stone them, and tie fix or feven bunches together with a thread to a piece of fplit deal, about four inches long. Weigh the currants, and put their weight of double-refined fugar into your toffing-pan, with a little water. Boil it till the fugar flies. Then put the currants in, juft, give them a boil up, and cover them till next day. Then take them out, and either dry them or put them into glafies, with the fyrup boiled up with a little of the juice of red currants. Put brandy paper over them, then, other paper over that, and tie them down clofe. If you wilh to prelerve white currants in' bunches, proceed thus. Stone and tie them in bunches as above diredted. Put them into the preferving-pan, with their weight of double-refined fugar beaten and finely fifted. Let them ftand all night. Then take fome pippins, pare, core, and boil them, and prefs them down with the back of a fpoon, but do not ftir them. When the water be ftrong of the apple, add to it the juice of a lemon, and ftrain it through a jelly-bag till it runs quite clear. To every pint of your liquor put a pound of double-refined fugar, and boil it up to a ftrong jelly. Then put it to your currants, and boil, them till they look clear. Cover them in the preferving-pan with pa¬ per till they be almoft cold, and then put a bunch of currants into your glafies, and fill them up with jelly. When they be cold, wet papers in brandy, and lay over them ; then put over them another paper, and tie them up clofe. Currants are thus preferved for tarts. To every pound and a quarter of pickled currants take a pound of fugar. Put your fugar into a preferving-pan, with as much juice of currants as will diflolve it. As foon as it boils, fkim it, and put in your currants, and boil them till they be clear. PRESERVING. 345 clear. Put them into a jar, lay brandy paper over them, and tie them down clofe. Green Ccdlins. GREEN codlins will keep all the year, if pre¬ ferred in this manner. Gather them when they be about the fize of a walnut, with the (talks and a leaf or two on them. Put a handful of vine leaves into a pan of fpring-water; then put a layer of codlins, then of vine leaves, and fo on till the pan be full. Cover it clofe that no (team can get out, and fet it on a (low (ire. As foon as they be foft, take off the (kins with a penknife, and then put them in the fame water with the vine leaves, which muft be quite cold, or it will be apt to crack them. Put in a little roach alum, and fet them over a very (low fire till they be green, which will be in three or four hours. Then take them out, and lay them on a fieve to drain. Make a good fvrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three days. Then put them into fmall jars, with brandy paper'over them, and tie them up tight. Golden Pippins. HAVING boiled the rind of an orange very ten¬ der, let it lay in water two or three days. Take a quart of golden pippins, pare, core, quarter, and boil them to a ftrong jelly, and run it through a jelly-bag. Then take twelve pippins, pare them, and fcrape out the cores. Put two pounds of loaf fugar into a ftewpan, with near a pint of water. When it boils, fkim it, and put in your pippins, with the orange rind in thin dices. Let them boil faff till the fugar be very thick, and will almoft candy. Then put in a pint of the pippin jelly, and boil them faff till the jelly be clear. Then fqueeze in the juice of a lemon, give it a boil, and put them into pots or glaffes with the orange-peel. Grapes. PUT into a jar fome clofe bunches of grapes, but they muft not be too ripe 3 it matters not, whether they be red or white grapes. Put to them a quarter of a pound V 346 'PRESERVING. pound of fugar-candy, and fill die jar with common brandy. Tie them up clofe with a bladder, and fet them in a dry place. Morello cherries may be preferved in the fame manner. Walnuts. WALNUTS may be preferved either white, black, or green. To preferve walnuts white, pare them till the white appears, and nothing elfe. As faft as you do them, throw them into fait and water, and let them lie there till your fugar be ready. Take three pounds of good loaf fugar, put it into your preferving-pan, fet it over a charcoal fire, and put as much water as will juft wet the fugar. Let it boil, then have ready ten or a dozen whites of eggs drained and beat up to a froth. Cover your fugar with the froth as it boils, and fkim it. Then boil it and flam it till it be as clear as cryftal, and throw in your walnuts. Juft give them a boil till they be tender, then take them out, and lay them in a difh to cool. When they be cold, put them in your pre- ferving-pot, and when the lugar be as warm as milk, pour it over them; and when they be quite cold, tie them up. To preferve walnuts black, you muft take thofe of the fm after kind ; put them in fait and water, and change the water every day for nine days. Then put them in a fieve, and let them ftand in the air till they begin to turn black. Then put them into a jug, pour boiling water over them, and let them ftand till the next day. Then put them into a fieve to drain, ftick a clove in each end of your walnut, put them into a pan of boiling water, and let them boil five minutes. Then take them up, make a thin fyrup, and fcaid them in it three or four times a day, till your walnuts be black and bright. Then make a thick fyrup with a few cloves, and a little ginger cut in fiices. Skim it well, put in your walnuts, boil them five or fix minutes, and then put them into vour jars. Lay brandy paper over them, and tie them down clofe with a bladder. They will eat better the fe- cond year of their keeping than in the firft, as their bit- ternefs. goes off with time. To PRESERVING. 347 To preferve walnuts green, you mull wipe them very dry, and lay them in fait and water twenty-four hours. Then take them out, and wipe them very clean. Have ready a Ikiliet of boiling water, throw them in, let them boil a minute, and then take them out. Lay them on a coarfe cloth, and boil your fugar as diredled for the white walnuts; then juft give your walnuts a fcald in the fugar, take them up, and lay them to cool. Put them into your prefervihg-pot, and proceed as diredted for white walnuts. Cucumbers . TAKE the greeneft cucumbers, and the moft free from feeds you can get; fome fmall, to preferve whole, and others large to cut into pieces. Put them into ftrong fait and water in a ftraight-mouthed jar, with a cabbage deaf to keep them down. Set them in a warm place till they be yellow, then wafh them out, and fet them over the fire in frefh water, with a little fait, and a frefh cabbage-leaf over them. Cover the pan very clofe, but take care they do not boil. If they be not of a fine green, change your water, and that will help them. Then cover them as before, and make them hot. When they become of a good green, take them off the tire, and let them ftand till they be-cold. Then cut the large ones in quarters, take out the feeds and foft part, then put them into cold water, and let them ftand two days; but change the water twice every day to take out the fait. Take a pound of fingle-refined fugar, and half a pint of water. Set it over the fire, and when you have fkimmed it clean, put in the rind of a lemon, and an ounce of ginger, with the outfide fcraped off. When your fyrup be pretty thick, take it off; and when it be cold, wipe the cucumbers dry, and put them in. Boil the fyrup once in two or three days for three weeks, and ftrengthen the fyrup, if required'; for the greateft danger of fpoiling them is at firft. When you put the fyrup to your cucumbers, be fure that it be quite cold. Green 34 8 •W PRESERVING, Green Gage Plums. PUT into a pan the fineft plums you can get juft before they be ripe. Put vine leaves at the bottom of your pan, then a layer of plums, and thus plums and vine leaves alternately till your pan be almoft full. Then fill it with Water, fet them over a flow fire, and when, they be hot, and their Ikins begin to break, take them off, and take the fkins off carefully. Put them on a fteve as you do them, then lay them in the fame water, with a layer of leaves between, as you did at the firft, and cover them very clofe, lo that no fleam can get out. Hang them at a great diftance from the fire till they be green, which will be five or fix hours at lealt. Then take them carefully up, lay them on a hair fieve to drain, make a good fyrup, and give them a gentle boil in it twice a day for two days. Take them out, and put them into a fine clear fyrup, put brandy paper over them, and tie them down clofe. Damfons. CUT your damfons into pieces, and put them in a fkiliet over the fire, with as much water as will cover them. When they be boiled, and the liquor pre-tty flrong, drain it out, and add to every pound of the dam¬ fons wiped clean, a pound of fingle-refined fugar. Put one third of your fugar into the liquor, fet it over the lire, and when it fimmers, putin the damfons. Let them have one good boil, and take them off for half an hour covered up clofe. Then fet them on again, and let them fimmer over the fire after turning them. Then take them out, put them in a bafon, drew all the fugar that was left on them, and pour the hot liquor over them. Cover them up, let them ftand till the next day, and then boil them up again till they be enough. Then take them up, and put them in pots ; boil the liquor till it jellies, and pour it on them when it be almoft cold. Put paper over them, and tie them up clofe. Morello Cherries. HAVING gathered your cherries when they be full ripe, take off the ftalks, and prick them with a pin. To PRESERVING. 349 To every pound of cherries put a pound and a half of loaf fugar. Beat part of your fugar, drew it over them., and let them (land all night. Diffolve the reft of your fugar in half a pint of the juice of currants, fet it over a flow fire, and put in the cherries with the fugar, and give them a gentle fcald. Then take them carefully out, boil your fyrup till it be thick, and pour it upon your cherries. Lemons . FIRST pare your lemons very thin, then make a round hole on the top, of the fize of a fhilling, and take out all the pulps and fkins. Rub them with fait, and put them in fpring-water as you do them, which will prevent their turning black. Let them lie in it five or fix days, and then boil them in frefh fait and water fif¬ teen minutes. Have ready made a thin fyrup of a quart of water, and a pound of loaf-fugar. Boil them in it for five minutes once a day, for four or five days, and then put them in a large jar. Let them ftand for fix or eight weeks, and it will make them look clear and plump. Then take them out of that fyrup, or they will mould. Make a fyrup of fine fugar, put as much water to it as will diffolve it, boil and fkim it, then put in your lemons, and boil them gently till they be clear. Put them into a jar with brandy paper over them, and tie them down clofe. Oranges. CUT a hole out of a Seville orange at the ftalk-end as large as a fix-pence, and fcoop out the pulp quite clean. Tie them feparately in muffin, and lay: them two days in fpring-water. Change the water twice every day, and then boil them in the muffn on a flow fire till they be quite tender. As the water waftes, put more hot water into the pan, and keep them covered. Weigh the oranges before you fcoop them, and to every pound put two pounds of double-refined fugar, and a pint of water. Boil the fugar and water, with the juice of the oranges, to a fyrup. Skim it well, let it ftand tilLit be cold, then put in the oranges, and let them boirff alf an PRESERVING. 35° an hour. If they be not quite dear, boil them once a day for two or three days. Then pare and core fome green pippins, and boil them till the water be ftrong of the apple; but do not ftir them, and only put them down with the back of a fpoon. Strain the water through a jelly-bag till it be quite clear, and then, to every pint of water, put a pound of double-refined fugar, and the juice of a lemon {trained fine. Boil it up to a ftrong jelly, drain the oranges out of the fyrup, and put them into glafs jars, or pots of the fize of an orange, with the holes upwards. Pour the jelly over them, cover them with papers dipped in brandy, and tie them clofe down with a bladder. You may do lemons in this manner, if you prefer it to the method before diredted. Strawberries. ON a dry day, gather the fineft fcarlet ftrawberries, with their ftalks on, before they be too ripe. Lay them feparately on a China difh, beat and lift twice their weight of double-refined fugar, and ftrew it over them. Then take a few ripe fcarlet ftrawberries, crufh them, and put them into a jar, with their weight of double- refined fugar beat fmall. Cover them clofe, and let them Hand in a kettle of boiling water till they be foft, and the fyrup be come out of them. Then ftrain them through a mufiin rag into a toffing-pan, boil and fkim it well, and when it be cold, put in your whole ftrawberries, and fet them over the fire till they be milk warm. Then take them off, and let them ftand till they be quite cold. Then fet them on again, and make them a little hotter, and do fo feveral times till they look clear; but do not let them boil, as that will bring off their ftalks. When the ftrawberries be cold, put them into jelly-glaffes, with the ftalks downwards, and fill up your glaffes with the fyrup. Put over them papers dipped in brandy, and tie them down clofe. Pine-Apples. TAKE pine-apples before they be ripe, and lay them five days in ftrong fait and water. Then put into the bottom of a large faucepan a handful of vine leaves* 4 and PRESERVING, and put in your pine-apples. Fill your pan with vine leaves, and then pour on the fait and water they were laid in. Cover it up very clofe, and fet them over a flow fire. Let them (land till they be of a fine light green. Have ready a thin fyrup, made of a quart of water, and a pound of double-refined fugar. When it be almoft cold, put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine-apples, with their tops on. Let them ftand a week, and take care that they be well covered with the fyrup. It is a great fault to put any kind of fruit that is to be preferved whole into thick fyrup at firfl, as that makes it fhrink, draws out the juice, and fpoiis it. When they have flood a week, boil your fyrup again, and pour it carefully into your jar, left you break the tops of your pine-apples. Let it fland eight or ten weeks, and during that time give the fyrup two or three boilings to keep it from moulding. Let your fyrup ftand till it be near cold before you put it on ; and when your pine-apples look quite full and green, take them out of the fyrup, and make a thick fyrup of three pounds of double-re¬ fined fugar, with as much water as will dififoive it. Boil and {kirn it well, put a few flices of white ginger into it, and when it be nearly cold, pour it upon your pine-ap¬ ples. Tie them down clofe with a bladder, and they will keep many years without {bl inking. Berberries. IF you intend to preferve your berberries for tarts, proceed thus. Having picked the female branches clean from,the {talks, take their weight in loaf-fugar, and put them in ajar. Set them in a kettle of boiling water till the fugar be melted, and the berberries quite foft. The next day put them into a preferving-pan, and boil them fifteen minutes. Then put them into jars, and tie them up clofe. ~ Berberries are thus preferved in bunches. Having procured the fineft female berberries, pick out all the largeft bunches, and then pick the reft from the {talks. Put them in as much water as will make a fyrup for your bunches. Boil them till they be foft, then (train them preserving. 35 2 them through a fieve, and to every pint of the juice, put a pound and a half of loaf fugar. Boil and fkim it well, and to every pint of fyrup put half a pound of berber¬ ries in. bunches. Boil them till they look very fine and clear, then put them carefully into pots or glafifes, and tie them down clofe with brandy paper. Quinces. QUINCES may be preferved either whole, or in quarters, in this manner. Having pared them very thin and round, (and cut into quarters, if you choofe it) put them into a faucepan, fill it with hard water, and lay your parings over your quinces to keep them down. Cover your faucepan clofe that no fleam may get out, and fet them over a flow fire till they be foft, and of a fine pink colour. Then let them (land till they be cold. Make a good fyrup of double-refined fugar, and boil and fkim it well. Then put in your quinces, let them boil ten minutes, then take them off, and let them Hand two or three hours. Then boil them till the fyrup looks thifck, and the quinces clear. Then put them into deep jars, and with brandy paper and leather over them, tie them up clofe. Peaches. LET your peaches' be the largeft you can get, but not too ripe. Rub off the lint with a cloth, and then run them down the fe*am with a pin, fkin deep, and cover them with French brandy. Tie a bladder over them, and let them Hand a week. Then take them out, and make a flrong fyrup for them. Boil and fkim it well, then put in your peaches, and boil them till they look clear. Then take them out, and put them into pots or glades. Mix the fyrup with the brandy, and when it be cold, pour it on your peaches. Tie them clofe down with a bladder, as your peaches will turn black fhould the air get to them. i Apricots. H AVIN G pared your apricots, thrufl out the flones with a fkewer, and to every pound of apricots put a pound DRYING and CANDYING. 353 pound of loaf fugai*. Strew part of it over them, and let them dand till the next day. Then give them a gentle boil three or four different times, and let them cool between each time. Take them out of the fyrup, one by one, the laft time you boil them. Skim your fyrup well, then pour it over your apricots, and tie them down dole with brandy paper and a bladder. CHAP. VIII. DRYING and CANDYING, Preliminary Hints and Obfervations . E V E R Y kind of fruit, before you attempt to candy it, mud be firft preferved, and dried in a dove, or before the fire, that none of the fyrup may remain in it. Then, having boiled your fugar to the candy height, dip in your fruit, and lay them in difhes in your dove to dry. Then put them in boxes forufe, and take care to keep them in places neither damp nor hot. Candied Cajfia. TAKE as much of the powder of brown caflia as will lie upon two ddllings, with as much mufk and am¬ bergris as you think proper. The cafua and perfume mud be powdered together. Then take a quarter of a pound of fugar, and boil it to a candy height. Then put in your powder, and mix it well together. Pour it into faucers, which mud be buttered very thin, and when it be cold it will dip out. Or an re Marmalade. o CUT in two the cleared Seville oranges you can get, take out all the pulp and juice into a bafon, and pick A a ad 354 DRYING and CANDYING. all the fkins and feeds out of it. Boil the rinds in hard •water till they be tender, and change the water two or three times while they be boiling. Then pound them in a marble mortar, and add to it the juice and pulp. Then put them in the preferving-pan with double its weight of loaf fugar, and let it over a flow fire. Boil it rather more than half an hour, put it into pots, cover it with brandy papef, and tie it clofe down. Apricot Marmalade. ALL thofe apricots that are not good enough for preferves, or are too ripe for keeping, will anfwer this purpofe. Boil them in fyrup till they will mafia, and then beat them in a marble mortar to a pafte. Take half their weight of loaf fugar, and put juft water enough to it to diffolve it. Boil and fkim it till it looks clear, and the fyrup thick like a fine jelly. Then put it into your fweetmeat glades, and tie it up dole. 5 franfparent Marmalade . CUT very pale Seville oranges into quarters, take out the pulp, put it into a bafon, and pick out the fkins and feeds. Put the peels into a little fait and wa¬ ter, and let them ftand all night. Then boil them in a good quantity of fpring-water till they' be tender, cut them in very thin dices, and put them to the pulp. To every pound of marmalade put a pound and a half of double-refined fugar finely beaten, and boil them toge¬ ther gently for twenty minutes; but if it be not clear and tranfparent in that time, boil it five or fix minutes longer. Keep ftirring it gently all the time, and take care that you do not break the dices. When it be cold, put it into jelly or fweetmeat glades, and tie them down tight with brandy paper, and a bladder over them. Quince Marmalade. QUIN CES for this purpofe muft be full ripe. Pare them and cut them into quarters; then take out the core, and put them into a faucepan. Cover them with • the,parings, fill the faucepan nearly full of fpring T wa- ter, cover it dole, and let them flew over a flow lire rill they DRYING and CANDYING. 35.5 they be foft, and of a pink colour. Then pick out all your quinces from the parings, and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar. Take their weight of fine loaf fugar, put as much water to it as will diffolve it, and boil and fkim it well. Then put in your quinces, and' boil them gently three quarters of an hour. You mud keep Rirring it all the time, or it will (tick to the pan and burn. When it be cold, put it into flat pots, and tie it down clofe. Raftpberry Pafte. TAKE a quart of rafpberries, mafh them, drain one half, and put the juice to the other half. Boil them a quarter of an hour, put to them a pint of red currant juice, and let them boil all together till your rafpberries be enough. Then put a pound and a half of double- refined fugar into a clean pan, with as much water as will diffolve it, and boil it to a fugar again. Then put in your rafpberries and juice, give them a feald, and pour it into glaffes or plates. Then put them into a Rove to dry, and turn them when neceffary. Currant Pafte. YOUR currant paRe may be either red or white, according to the colour of the currants you ufe. Strip your currants, put a little juice to them to keep them from burning, boil them well, and rub them through a hair fieve. Then boil it a quarter of an hour, and to a pint of juice put a pound and a half of double refined fugar pounded and fifted. Shake in your fugar, and when it be melted, pour it on plates. Dry it in the fame manner as the above paRe, and turn it into any form moR to your liking. Goofeberry Pafte . WHEN your red goofeberries be full grown and turned, but not ripe, cut them in halves, pick, out all the feeds ; then have ready a pint of currant juice, and boil your goofeberries in it till they be tender. Put a pound and a half of double-refined fugar into yotur pan, with as much water as will diffolve it, and boil it to a A a 2 fwgar 356 DRYING and CANDYING. fugar again. Then put all together, and make it Raid¬ ing hot, but do not let it boil. Pour it into your plates or glades, and dry it as above diredled. Burnt Almonds. PUT two pounds of almonds, the fame quantity of loaf fugar, and a pint -of water, into a ftewpan. Set them over a clear coal fire, and let them boil till you hear the almonds crack. Then take them off, and Air them about till they be quite dry; Put them in a wire fieve, and fift all the fugar from them. Put the fugar into the pan again with a little water, and give it a boil. Then put four fpoonfuls of fcraped cochineal to the fugar to colour it, put the almonds into the pan, and keep ftirring them over the fire till they be quite dry. Then put them into a glafs, and they will keep a year. Orange Chips. PARE fome of the befl: Seville oranges aflant, about a quarter of an inch broad, and if you can keep the parings whole they will have a prettier efi'ed. When you have pared as many as you intend, put them into fait and fpring-water for a day or two. Then boil them in a large quantity of fpring-water till they be tender, and drain them on a fieve. Plave ready a thin fyrup, made of a quart of water, ’and a pound of fine lugar. Boil them, a few at a time, to keep them from break¬ ing, till they look clear. Then put them into a fyrup made of fine loaf fugar, with as much water as will dif- folve it, and boil them to a candy height. When you take them up, lay them on a fieve, and grate double- refined fugar over them. Then put them in a ftove, or before the fire, to dry. Grem Gage Plums dried. HAVING mace a thin fyrup of half a pound of fingle-refined fugar, and fkifruned it well, flit a found of plums down the feam, and put them in the fyrup. Keep them Raiding hot till they be tender, and take care that they be well covered with fyrup, or they will lofe their colour. Let them Rand all night, and then make a licit DRYING and CANDYING. 357 a rich fyrup. To a pound of double-refined fugar pur two fpoonfuls of water, fkim it well, and boil it almod to a candy. When it be cold, drain your plums out of the firft fyrup, and put them into the thick fyrup; but be lure to let the fyrup cover them. Set them on the fire to fcald till they look clear, and then put them in a China bowl. When they have flood a week, take them out, and lay them on China difhes. Then put them in a dove, and turn them once a day till they be dry. Cherries dried. STONE what quantity of morello cherries, you pleafe, and to every pound of cherries put a'pound and a quarter of fine fugar; beat it and fife it over your cher¬ ries, and let them dand all night. Then take them out of your fugar, and to every pound of fugar put two fpoonfuls of water. Boil and fkim it well, and then put in your cherries. Let your fugar boil over them, the next morning drain them, and to every pound of the fyrup put half a pound more fugar. Let it boil a little thicker, then put in your cherries, and let them boil gently. The next day drain them, put them into a dove to dry, and mind every day to turn them. Damfcns dried. DAMSONS for this purpofe mud be gathered when they be full ripe. Spread them on a coaife cloth, and fet them in a very cool oven. Let them dand a day or two ; and if they be not then properly dried, put them in for a day or two longer. Then take them out, lay them in a dry place, and even in the winter they will eat like frefh plums. Apricots dried. PARE and done a pound of apricots, and put them into a tofiing-pan. Pound and lift half a pound of double-refined fugar, drew a little amongd them, and lay the red over them. Let them dand twenty-four hours, turn them three or four times in the fyrup, and then boil them pretty quick till they look clear. When they be cold, take them out, and lay them on glades. A a 3 . Then 358 DRYING and CANDYING. Then put them into a ftove, and turn them the firft day every half hour, the fecond day every hour, and fo on till they be dry. Peaches dried. GET the largeft Newington peaches, and pare and {tone them. Put them into a faucepan of boiling water, let them boil till they be tender, and then lay them on a fieve to drain. Weigh them, and with their weight in fugar cover them in the pan they were boiled in. L.et them lie two or three hours, then boil them till they be' clear, and the fyrup pretty thick. Cover them clofe, and let them Hand all night; fcald them well, and then take them oft to cook Then fet them on again till the peaches be thoroughly hot, and do this for three days. Then lay them on plates, and turn them every day till they be dry. Ginger candied. TAKE an ounce of race ginger grated fine, a pound ®f loaf fugar beat fine, and put into a toffing-pan with as much water as will dilfolve it. Stir them well toge¬ ther over a very flow fire till the fugar begins to boil. Then ftir in another pound of fugar beat fine, and keep iiirring it till it grows thick. Then take it off the fire, and drop it in cakes upon earthen difhes. Set them in a warm place to dry, and they will be hard and brittle, and look white. Lemon and Orange Peels candied. o TAKE either lemons or oranges, cut them long¬ ways, take out all the pulp, and put the rinds into a pretty ftrong fait and hard water for fix days, Then boil them in a laige quantity of fpring-water till they be ten¬ der. Take them out, and lay them on a hair fieve to (drain-. Then make a thin fyrup of fine loaf fugar, a pound to a quart of water. Put in your peels, and boil them half an hour, or till they look clear, and have ready a thick fyrup, made of fine loaf fugar, with as much water as will diffoive it. Put in your peels, and boil them over a flow fire till you fee the fyrup candy about the pan and peels. Then take them out, and grate ORNAMENT S. 359 grate fine fugar all over them. Lay them on a hair fieve to drain, and fet them in a (love, or before the fire, to dry. Remember when you boil either lemons or oranges, not to cover your faucepan. Angelica candied. o CUT your angelica in lengths when young, cover it clbfe, and boil it till it be tender. Then peel it, put it in again, and let it fimmer and boil tili it be green. Then take it up, and dry it with a cloth, and to every pound of (talks put a pound of fugar. Put your (talks into an earthen pan, beat your lugar, and drew it over them, and let them (land two days. Then boil it till it be clear and green, and put it in a cullender to drain. Beat another pound of fugar to powder, and (trew it on your angelica. Lay it on plates to dry, and fet them in the oven after the pies be drawn. CHAP. IX. ELEGANT ORNAMENTS for a GRAND ENTERTAINMENT. Floating Ijland. r | ^ A K E a foup difh, of a fize proportionate to what X yon intend to make; but a deep glafs, fet on a China difh, will anfwer the purpofe better. Take a quart of the thickeft cream you can get, and make it pretty fweet with fine fugar. Pour in a gill of fack, grate in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream till it be of a thick froth. Then carefully pour the thin from the froth into a difn. Cut a French roll, or as many as you want, as thin as you can, and put a layer A a 4 of . V 3 6 o ORNAMENTS. of it as light as poffible on the cream, then a layer of currant jelly, then a very thin layer of roll, then hartf- horn jelly, then French roli, and over that whip your froth, which you faved off the cream, well milled up, and lay it on the top as high as you can heap it. The rim of your difh you may ornament with figures, fruits, or fweetmeats, as you pleafe. This looks very pretty on the middle of a table, with candles round it; and you may make it of as many different colours as you fancy, and according to what jellies, jams, or fweet¬ meats you have. .« Chinefe 'Temple or Obelijk. TAKE an ounce of fine fugar, half an ounce of but¬ ter, and four ounces of fine flour. Boil the fugar and 'butter in a little water, and when it be cold, beat an egg, and put it to the water, fugar, and butter. . Mix it with the flour, and make it into a very ftiff pafte. Then roll it as thin as poffible, have a let of tins the form of a temple, and put the pafte upon them. Cut it in what form you pleafe upon the feparate parts of your tins, keeping them feparate till baked ; but take care to have the pafte exadtly the fize of the tins. When you have cut all the parts, bake them in a flow oven, and when cold, take them out of the tins, and join the parts with ftrong ifinglafs and water with a camel’s hair brufn. Set them one upon the other, as the forms of the tin moulds will direft you. If you cut it neatly, and the pafte be roiled very thin, it will be a beautiful, corner for a large table. If you have obelifk moulds, you may make them the fame way for an oppofite cor¬ ner. Take care to make the pillars ftronger than the top, that they may not be crufhed by their weight. Defert If and. FORM a lump of pafte into a rock three inches broad at the top. Then colour it, and fet it in the middle of a deep China difh. Set a call; figure on it, with a crown on its head, and a knot of rock candy at its feet. Then make a roll of pafte an inch thick, and Rick it on the inner edge of the difh, two parts round. Cut ORNAMENTS. 361 Cut eight pieces of eringo roots, about three inches long, and fix them upright to the roll of pafte on the edge. Make gravel walks of lhot comfits round the difh, and let fmall figures in them. Roil out fome pafte, and cut it open like Chinefe .ails. Bake it, and fix it on either fide of the gravel walks with gum, and form an entrance where the Chinefe rails be, with two pieces of eringo root for pillars. Moonjhine. HAVE a piece of tin in the fhape of a half-moon, as dt p as a half pint bafon, and one in the fhape of a large ftar, and two or threq leffer ones. Boil two calf’s feet in a gallon of water till it comes to a quart, then ftrain it off, and when cold, fkim off the fat. Take half the jelly, and fweeten it with fugar to your palate. Beat up che whites of four eggs, far all together over a flow fire till it boils, and then run it through a flannel bag tili clear. Put it in a clean faucepan, and take an ounce of fweet almonds blanched, and beat very fine in a marble mortar, with two fpoonfuls of rofe water, and two of orange flower water. Then ftrain it through a coarfe cloth, mix it with the jelly, ftir in four fpoonfuls of thick cream, and ftir it all together till it boils. Then have ready the difh you intend it for, lay the tin in the fhape of a half-moon in the middle, and the ftars round it. Lay little weights on the tins to keep them in the place" where you lay them. Then pour in the above blanc-mange into the difh ; and when it be quite cold, take out the tins. Then fill up the vacancies with clear calf’s feet jelly. You may colour your blanc-mange with cochineal and chocolate, to make it look like the fky, and your moon and ftars will then fhine the brighter. You may put round it rock candy fweetmeats for a garnifh. A Djjh of Snow. PUT twelve large apples into cold water, fet them over a flow fire, and when they be foft, pour them upon a hair fieve. Take off the fkins, and put the pulp into a bafon. Then beat the whites of twelve eggs to a very ftrong O R N A M E'N T S. 362 ftrong froth, beat and fift half a pound of double-refined fugar, and itrew it into the eggs. Then beat the pulp of your apples to a ftrong froth, then beat them all to¬ gether till they be like a ftiff fnow, lay it upon a China dilh, and heap it up as high as you can. Set round it green knots of pafte, in imitation of Chinefe rails, and ftick a fprig of myrtle in the middle of the difh. Artificial Fruit. AT a proper time of the year, take care to fave the ftalks of the fruit, with the (tones to them. Then get fome tins neatly made in the fhape of the fruit you in¬ tend 'to make, leaving a hole at the top to put in the (lone and (talk. They muft be fo contrived as to open in the middle, to take out the fruit, and there muft aifo be made a frame of wood to fix them in. Great care muft be taken to make the tins very fmooth in the in- lide, otherwife their roughnefs will mark the fruit; and that they be made exadfly of the fhape of the fruit they be intended to reprefent. A defeft in either of thefe points will not only give deformity to the artificial fruit, but likewife rob the artifts of that honour they might other- wife acquire. Being thus prepared with your tins, take two cow-heels and a calf’s foot. Boil them in a gallon of foft water till they be all boiled to rags, and when you have a full quart of jelly, ftrain it through a fieve. Then put it into a laucepan, fweecen it, put in lemon-peel per¬ fumed, and colour it like the fruit you intend to imitate. Stir all together, give it a boil, and fill your tins. Then put in the ftones and the ftalks juft as the fruit grows ; and when the jelly be quite cold, open your tins, and put on the bloom, which may be done by carefully dufting on powder-blue. An ingenious perfon may make great improvement on thefe artificial fruits ; but it requires great nicety and long practice to perfedt them in it. The hedge-hog, the hen and chickens in jelly, the Solomon’s temple, and the eggs and bacon, &c. in flum¬ mery, already given in the fixth chapter of this part, may, with propriety, be claffed among the elegant or¬ naments for a grand entertainment. INSTRU C- INSTRUCTIONS, &c. 363 INSTRUCTIONS for carving POULTRY, s G A M E, &c. Pur kies. T O cut up a turkey properly, you muft raife the leg, and open the joint; but be fure not to take off the leg. Lace down both Tides of the breaft, and open the pinion of the breaft, but do not take it off. Raife the merrythought between the breaft bone and the top; raife the brawn, and turn it outward on both Tides; but be careful not to cut it off, nor break it. Divide the wing-pinions from the joint next the body, and ftick each pinion where the brawn was turned out. Cut off the fharp end of the pinion, and the middle piece will exaffly fit the place. You may in the fame manner cut up a capon, a buf- tard, or a pheafant. Partridges or Quails. T O wing either of thefe birds, nothing more is to be done, than to raife the legs and wings. Ule lalt and powdered ginger for fauce. Pbeajants or Peals. T O allay either of thefe, obferve the diredlions given for the foregoing; but ufe fait only for fauce. Swans. T O lift a fwan, you muft flit it quite down the mid¬ dle of the breaft, clean through the back, from the neck to the rump. Divide it into two parts, neither breaking nor tearing the flefli. Then lay the halves in a charger, with the flit fide downwards, throw fait upon it, and let it on the table. Cranes. T O difplay a crane, after its legs are unfolded, cut off the wings. Take them up, and fauce them with powdered ginger, vinegar, fait and muftard. 9 - Herns, 364 I NS TRUCTIONS Herns. T O difmember a hern, cut off the legs, lace the bread down each fide, and open the breaft-pinion, with¬ out cutting it off. Raife the merrythought between the bread-bone and the top of it, and then raife the brav/n, turning it outward on both fides 5 but do not break it, nor cut it off Sever the wing-pinion from the joint neared the body, dicking the pinions in the place where the brawn was. Remember to cut oft' the fharp end of the pinion, and fupply the place with the middle piece. A capon, pheafant, or bittern, may be cut up in the fame manner, udng no other iauce than fait. Woodcocks. T O thigh a woodcock, you mud raife the legs and wings in the fame manner as you do a fowl, only open the head for the brains. In like manner you thigh cur¬ lews, plovers, or fnipes, ufing no fauce but fait. Geeje. T O rear a goofe, cut oft' both legs in the manner of fhoulders of lamb, and take off the belly-piece clofe to the extremity of the bread. Lace the goofe down both fides of the bread, about half an inch from the fharp bone. Divide the pinions and the flefti fird laced with your knife, which mud be railed from the bone, and taken off with the pinion from the body. Then cut off" the merrythought, and cut another dice from the bread- bone quite through. Ladly, turn up the carcafe, cut¬ ting it afunder, the back above the loin-bones. Mallards or Ducks. T O unbrace a mallard or duck, fird raife the pinions and legs, but do not cut them off. Then raife the merrythought from the bread, and lace it down both fides with your knife. Rabbits. T O unlace a rabbit, the back mud be turned down¬ ward, and the apron divided from the belly. This done. done, flip your knife between the kidnies, loofening the flefh on each fide. Then turn the belly, cut the back croffways between the wings, and draw your knife down both fides of the back-bone, dividing the fides and legs from the back. Obferve not to pull the leg too vio¬ lently from the bone, when you open the fide; but with great exadtnefs lay open the fides from the fcut to ihoulder, and then put the legs together. Hares. THERE are two ways of cutting up a- hare; but the bell: and readied way is to put the point of the knife in under the fhoulder, and cut through all the way down to the tump, on one fide of the back bone. When you have done this, cut it in the fame manner on the other fide, at an equal didance from the back-bone. By thefe means the body will be nearly divided into three. You may now cut the back, through the fpine or back-bone, into feveral fmall pieces, more or lefs as occafion fhall require. The back is much the tendered part, fulled of gravy, and efleemed the mod delicate. When you help a perfon to a part of the back, you mud always give a fpoonful of pudding with it, which is always put in the belly of it, and which you may now eaflly come at. Separate the legs from the back-bone, they are eafily cut from the belly. The flefh of the leg is the next in eflimation ; but the meat is clofer, firmer, and lefs juicy. The fhoulders mud be then taken off, which are generally bloody, on which account fome people prefer them to the legs. The whole of a leg of a large hare, would be too much to give any one perfon at once, it would therefore be proper to divide it, and the bed part of the leg is that which comes off neared from the bodv. Some people are fond of the head, brains, and bloody part of the neck ; but before you begin to difledl the head, cut off the ears at the roots, as many are fond of them when they are roafled crifp. The head mud then be divided, in this manner: Put it on a clean pewter plate, fo as to have it under your hand, and turning the nofe to you, hold it deadv with your fork, fo that it may not flip from under the knife. You mud then INSTRUCTIONS 366 then put the point of the knife into the fkull, between the ears, and by forcing it down, as foon as it has made Its way, the head may be eafily divided into two, by forcing the knife, with fome degree of ftrength, quite down through t;he nofe. This method, however, is to be done only when the hare be a young one ; for, if it be old, the beft me¬ thod is, to put your knife pretty dole to the back-bone, and cut off the leg; but, as the hip-bone will be in your way, turn the back of the hare towards you, and you mull endeavour to hit the joint between the hip and the thigh-bone. When you have feparated one, cut off the other; then cut a long narrow dice or two on each fide of the back-bone. Then divide the back-bone into two, three, or more parts, palling your knife between the feveral joints of the back. Fowls. WHETHER the fowl be roafted or boiled, it is cut up in the fame manner. A roafted fowl is fent ter table nearly in the fame manner as a pheafant, except¬ ing, that the pheafant has the head tucked under one of the wings, whereas the fowl has the head cut off before it is dreffed. In a boiled fowl, the legs are bent in¬ wards, and tucked into the belly. In order to cut up a fowl, the beft way is to take it on your plate. The legs, wings, and merrythought, being removed, take off the neck bones. All the parts being thus feparated from the carcafe, divide the bread; from the back, by cutting through the tender ribs on each fide, from the neck quite down to the tail. Lay the back then up¬ wards on your plate, fix your fork under the rump, and laying the edge of your knife on the back, prefs it down; then lift up the lower part of the back, and it will rea¬ dily divide with the help of your knife. In the next place, lay the lower part of the back upwards in your plate, and cut off the fide bones, or fidefmen, as they are generally called, when your fowl will be completely cut up. The for CARVING. 3S7 The prime parts of a fowl are the wings, bread, and merrythought, and next to them the neck-bones and fidefmen. The legs are generally confidered as coarfe, though there was a time when they were confidered as the bell part of the fowl. The legs of boiled fowls arc more tender than thole that are roafted ; but every part of a chicken is good and juicy. As the thigh-bones of a chicken are very tender, and eafily broken with the teeth, the gridles and marrow render them very delicate. Direfiims for carving different Joints of Meat . Haunch-bone of Beef. THE outfide of this joint buffers very much in its flavour from the water in which it is boiled ; a thick dice mud therefore be firft cut off, the whole length of the joint, cutting it all the way even, and through the whole furface. The foft fat, which refembles marrow, lies on the back, and the firm fat muff be cut in thin horizontal dices; but as fome people like the foft, and fome the firm fat, it would be proper to afk them which they would prefer. The upper part, as It is generally placed in the difh, is the handfomed, fulled of gravy, mod tender, and is enriched with fat; yet there are fome people, who prefer a fiice on the under-fide, though it is quite lean. Ox Bonguet. THIS mud not be cut long ways, but acrofs, and in the thicked parr, and taken in dices from thence. The mod tender and juicy pari U about the middle, and near the root 3 for towards the tip, the meat is both clofer and dryer. A tongue is generally eaten with white meat, veal, chicken, or turkey; and whenever you help any perfon to the one, you mud alfo help them to the other. Sirloin INSTRUCTIONS 368 Sirloin of Beef. WITH refpedt to the carving of this joint, it mat¬ ters not whether the whole, or only a part of it, be brought to table. The meat on the upper fide of the ribs is firmer, and of a clofer texture, than the flefhy part un¬ derneath, which' is by far the moil tender, and of courfe preferred by many people. To carve this joint, the different taftes of people muft be confulted, and each perfon helped to that part which is moft agreeable to them. Some people begin to carve it at the end, firft cutting off the outfide; while others begin in the middle of the moft flefhy part. The flices muft not be cut too thick, nor yet too thin. Brijket of Beef THIS part is always boiled, and is to be cut the long way, quite down to the bone, after having cut off the outfide, or firft cut, which you muft never help any one to, unlefs they defire it, which is feldom the cafe. The fat cut with this flice is a find griftley fats but a foffer fat may be found underneath. Buttock of Beef THIS part is always boiled, and requires little di- re&ions as to the carving of it. A thick flice Ihould be firft taken off all round it, when you come to the juicy and prime part of it. You muft be careful to cut it even, that it may have a graceful figure, fhould it be brought to table cold the next day. Breaft of Veal. A BREAST of veal muft be cut acrofs quite through^ dividing the griftles from the rib-bones : this is called, cutting the brifket from the ribs. The brifket may be cut into pieces as wanted; for fome prefer this part to the ribs. There requires no great defcription how to feparate the ribs, fince nothing more is required, than to put the knife in at the top between any two, and continue downwards till they be feparated. Remember to give a piece of the fweetbread to every one you help, as that is reckoned a delicate piece. Knuckle for CARVING. 3 6 9 Knuckle of Veal. THIS is always boiled, and is much liked on ac¬ count of the fat finewy tendons about the knuckle; for if it be lean, it is not worth dreffing. You can hardly cut this joint amifs 5 though it is ulual to begin in the thickeft part, from whence fome fine dices may be taken. The bones about the knuckle may be eafily feparated at the joints, and afford delicate picking. Calf's Head. THIS is an elegant difh boiled, and affords many delicate bits. When young> it is perfectly white, and the fat very fine. It muft be cut quite along the cheek¬ bone, in the flefhy part, from whence many handfome flices may be taken. In the flefhy part, at the end of the jaw-bone, lies part of the throat fweetbread, which is efteemed the belt part of the head. Many people are fond of the eye^ which muft be cut from the locket, by forcing the point of the carving knife down to the bottom on one edge of the focket, and cutting quite round, keeping the point of the knife flanting towards the middle, fo as to divide the meat from the bone. Though the eye is feldom divided, yet, if the company be large, you may cut it in half, and fo make it ferve two people. The palate is alfo much efteemed by fome people, and is found on the under-fide of the roof of the mouth. It is a crinkled, white, thick fkin, and may be eafily feparated from the bone by the knife, by lift¬ ing up the head with your left hand. When you ferve any perfon with a ftice of the head, you muft enquire whether they choofe to have any of the tongue or brains, which are generally ferved up in a feparate difh. A flice from the thick part of the tongue, near the root, is beft. Fillet of Veal . • THIS is the thigh part, and is the fame in the calf as is called the buttock in the ox. Many people think the outfide (lice of a fillet of veal a delicacy, be- caufe it is moft favourv; but every one does not think B b fo; 170 INSTRUCTIONS fo; the queftion fhould therefore be afked before yoii ! help any perfon to it. If nobody fhould choofe the firfl flice, lay it in the difh, and the fecond cut will be white itieat; but take care to cut it even, and clofe to the bone, A fillet of veal is ufually fluffed,, under the fkirt or flap, with a pudding or forced meat. This you muff cut deep into, in a line with the furface of the fillet,, and take out a thin flice. This, and a little fat cut from the fkirt, mud be given to each perfon at table. Leg of Mutton. THIS joint, whether boiled or roafled, is carved in the fame manner, though there are two methods of cut¬ ting it. Some cut it the long, ways ; but the moll ge¬ neral method is to cut it acrofs in the thickefl part, quite down to the bone, when you will cut right through the kernel of fat, called the pope’s eye, of which many people are fond. The moll juicy parts of the leg are in the thick part of it; but many prefer the drier part of it, which is about the fhank or knuckle, which fome people call venifon, though it is certainly the coarfeft part of the joint. A leg of weather mutton, which is generally the bell flavoured, may be eafily known by the kernel, or little round lump of fat, at the top of the thick part. The meat about the cramp-bone is efleemed a delicate morfel. Shoulder of Mutton. THIS joint is fometimes faked and boiled by whim- fical people, but is more generally roalled. It is very full of gravy, and much more fo than a leg, on which account it is preferred by many people. There are alfo a variety of nice cuts in ic. It mull be cut in the hok low part of it, and the knife fhould go down to the bone. The gravy then runs fall into the difh, and the part cut, opens wide enough to take many flices eafily from it- The bell fat, which is full of kernels, lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut in thin flices. If there be many people at table, and the hollow part be all cut away, fome good and delicate flices may be taken cut from each fide of the ridge of the blade-bone. On the 2 under for CARVING. 37! under fide of the fhoulder are two parts very full of gravy, and which many people prefer to thofe of the upper fide. The parts about the (hank are coarfe and dry, as about the knuckle in the leg; yet fome prefer thefe to the more rich and juicy parts. Saddle of Mutton . THIS is by fome called a chine of mutton, and confifts of the two loins together, the back-bone run¬ ning down the middle to the tail. When you carve it, you muft cut a long dice in either of the flefhy parts. There is feldom any great length of the tail left on; but if it be fent up with the tail, many will be fond of it; and it may be eafily divided into feveral pieces, by cutting between the joints of the tail, which are about an inch apart. Fore Quarter of Lamb. * THIS joint is always roafted, ,and when it comes to table, before you can help any one, you muft feparate the fhoulder from the breaft. The Ihoulder being thus taken off, a lemon or orange fhould be fqueezed upon the part, then fprinkled with fait where the Ihoulder joined it, and the fhoulder fhould then be laid on it again; but if the fore-quarter be grafs-lamb, and large, the fhoulder fhould be put into another difh, when taken off, and cut up in the fame manner as a fhoulder of mutton. The griftly part muft then be feparated from the ribs, and then all the preparatory bufinefs will be done. The ribs are generally moft efteemed, and one Or two may be eafily feparated from the reft. Each perfon at table fhould be afked which they prefer, the ribs, the griftly part, or the fhoulder. Sparerib of Pork. A SPARERIB of pork is carved by cutting out flices in the thick part at the bottom of the bones. When the flefhy part is all cut away, the bones, which are efteemed very fweet picking, may be eafily feparated. Very few people admire the gravy of pork, it being too flrong for moft ftomachs. B b 2 Hams 07 Of * INSTRUCTIONS Hams. THERE are three methods of carving a ham. Some begin at the knuckle, fome at the thick end, and others in the middle, which is perhaps the belt method, as you then come at once to the prime of the meat. Be careful to cut it thin, and bv no means in thick and clumfy pieces. Roafted Pig. A PIG is feldom fent whole to table, but cut up by the cook, who takes off the head, fplits the body down the back, and garnifhes the difli with the chaps and ears. Before you help any body, feparate the fhoulders from the carcafe, and then the legs. The moft delicate part of a pig is about the neck. The next belt parts are the ribs; but, in a young pig, there cannot be many coarfe bits. Some are fond of an ear, and others of a chap, and may therefore be pleafed at an eafy rate. Haunch of Venifon. FIRST cut it acrofs down to the bone at fome little diftance from the knuckle; from the middle of that cut, take another ftroke as deep as you can the length wavs, fo that the two ftrokes will then form fomething like the letter T. You may then take out lengthways as many Dices as you pleafe. Slices of venifon fhould not be cut thick, nor yet too thin, and fome fit, and plenty of gravy fhould be given with them. Currant jelly fhould always be on the table for thofe who choofe it. j Fijh. THERE is no great difficulty in cutting up and ferving fiffi, and therefore very few rules, or rather ob- fervations, will be needful. Salmon , The belly part is the fatteft ; it is therefore cuftomary to give thofe, who like both back and belly, fome of each. Moft people who are fond of falmon, generally like the fkin, fo that the Dices muft be cut out thin, fkin and all. Purlot. for CARVING. 373 Turbot. Enter the fifh-knife or trowel in the middle, over the back-bone, and take off a piece of the fifli, as much as will lie on the trowel, on one fide clofe to. the bones. The thickeft part of the fifli is always the mod efteemed. Soals. Thefe may be either boiled or fried. You miift cut them right through the middle, bone and all, and give a piece of the fifli, in proportion to the fize of it, to each perfon. Mackerel. Slit this fifli all along the back with a knife, and take off one whole fide, not too near the head, becaufe the meat about the gills is generally black and ill flavoured. .. Eels. Cut thefe into pieces quite through the bone. The thickeft part is the moft efteemed. Befides thefe, there are many other little articles brought to table; but as they are moftly Ample in their nature, a little obfer- vation and practice will make them complete proficients in the art of carving. B b 3 PART t 374 ] PART IV. MADE WINES, CORDIAL WATERS, and MALT LIQUORS. CHAP. I. MADE WINES. Preliminary Hints and Obfervations . RE AT care and precaution are neceffary in the vjr making of wine, as it is frequently fpoiled by mif- management. If you let your wine (land too long be¬ fore you get it cold, and do not take great care to put your barm upon it in time, it will make it fret in the calk, and you will find it very difficult, if at all pofllble, to bring it to any degree of ffnenefs. On the other hand, if you let your wine work too long in the tub, it will take off all the fweetnefs and flavour of the fruit or flowers your wine be made from. Be careful to have your veffels dry, and rinfed with brandy; and, as foon as the wine be done'fermenting, to clofe them up pro¬ perly. Blackberry Wine. HAVING procured berries that are full ripe, put them into a large veffel of wood or ftone, with a cock in it, and pour upon them as much boiling water as will cover them. As foon as the heat will permit you to put your hand into the veffel, bruife them well till all the berries be broken. Then let them {land covered till the berries begin to rife towards the top, which they ufually do in three or four days. Then draw off the clear MADE WINE S. 37 S clear into another veffel, and add to -every ten quarts of this liquor one pound of fugar. Stir it well in, and let it Hand to work, a week or ten days, in another veffel , Like the firft. Then draw it off at the cock through a jelly-bag into a large veffel. Take four ounces of ifin- glafs, and lay it xo fteep twelve hours in a pint of white wine. The next morning, boil it upon ,a How fire till it be all diffolved. Then take a gallon of your black¬ berry juice, put in the diffolved ifinglafs, give them a boil together, and pour all into the veffel. Let it Hand a few days to purge and fettle, then draw it off, and keep it in a cool place. Gvvjeberry lVine. GOOSEBERRIES for this purpofe muff be ga¬ thered in dry weather, and when they be only half ripe. Pick and bruife a peck of them in a tub. Then take a horfe-hair cloth, and prefs them as much as poffiole without breaking the feeds. When you have p ruffed out all the juice, to every gallon of goofeberries put three pounds of fine dry powdered fugar. Stir all toge¬ ther till the fugar be diffolved, and then put it into a veffel or cafk, which muft be quite filled. If it be ten or twelve gallons, let it (land a fortnight 3 but if it be a twenty gallon calk, it mull ftand three weeks. Set k in a cool place, then draw it off from the lees, and pour in the clear liquor again. If it be a ten gallon cafk, let it ftand three months; if a twenty gallon cafk, four months, and then bottle it off. Pearl Goojeberry Wine. TAKE as many as you pleafc of the bell pearl gooff - berries, bruife them, and let them ftand all night. The next morning prefs or fqueeze them out, and let the liquor ftand to fettle feven or eight hours. Then pour off the clear from the fettling, and meafure it as you put it into your veffel, adding to every three pints of liquor a pound of double-refined fugar. Break your fugar in fmall lumps, and put it into the veffel, with a. piece of ifinglafs. Stir it up, and at three months end B b 4 bottle 376 M A D E W I N E S. * bottle it, putting a lump of double-refined fugar into every bottle. Damfqn Wine. GAT HER your damfons on a dry day, weigh them, and then bruife them. Put them into a ftein that has a cock in it, and to every eight pounds of fruit put a gal¬ lon of water. Boil the water, fkim it, and put it fcaid¬ ing hot to your fruit. Let it (land two days, then draw it off, and put it into a veffel, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and a half of fine fugar. Fill up the veffel, and flop it clofe, and the longer it Hands the better. You may keep it twelve months in the vef¬ fel, and then bottle it, putting a lump of fugar into every bottle. The fmall damfon is the beft for this purpofe. Orange Wine. TAKE fix gallons of fpring-water, and boil it three quarters of an hour, with twelve pounds of the beft powder fugar, and the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten. When it be cold, put into it fix fpoonfuls of yeft. Take the juice of twelve lemons, which, being pared, muff Hand with two pounds of white fugar in a tankard, and in the morning fkim off the top, and put it into the water. Then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, but not the white parts of the rinds, and then let them work all together for forty-eight hours. Then add two. quarts of Rhenifh or white wine, and put it into your veffel. Or you may make your orange wine with raifins in this manner. Take thirty pounds of new Malaga raifins picked clean, chop them fmall, and take twenty large Seville oranges, ten of which you muff pare as thin as for preferring. Boil about eight gallons of foft water till one third of it be wafted, and let it cool a little. Then put five gallons of it hot upon your raifins and orange- peel, ftir it well together, cover it up, and when it be cold, let it Hand five days, ftirring it once or twice a day. Then p'afs it through a hair fieve, and with a fpoon prefs it as dry as you can. Put it in a rundlet fit for it, and put to it the rinds of the other ten oranges, cut as thin, MADE WINES. 37 7 thin as the firft. Then make a fyrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a pound of -white fugar. It mull be made the day before you tun it up. Stir it well to¬ gether, and flop it clofe. Let it Hand two months to clear, and then bottle it up. It will be better at the end of the third year than at the firft. Lemon Wine. PARE off the rinds of fix large lemons, cut them, and fqueeze out the juice. Steep the rinds in the juice, and put to it a quart of brandy. Let it Hand three days in an earthen pot dole flopped; then fqueeze fix more, and mix it with two quarts of fpring-water, and as much fugar as will fweeten the whole. Boil the wa¬ ter, lemons, and fugar together, and let it Hand till it be cool. Then add a quart of white wine, and the other lemons and brandy, then mix them together, and run it through a flannel bag into feme veffel. Let it Hand three months, and then bottle it off. Cork your bottles well, keep it cool, and it will be fit to drink in a month or fix weeks. Or you may make your lemon wine thus to drink like citron water. Pare five dozen of lemons very thin, put the peels into five quarts of French brandy, and let them Hand fourteen days. Then make the juice into a fyrup with three pounds of fingle-refined fugar, and when the peels be ready, boil fifteen gallons of water with forty pounds of fingle-refined fugar for half an hour. Then put it into a tub, and when cool add to it one fpoonful of barm, and let it work two days. Then tun it, and put in the brandy, peels, and fyrup. Stir them all together, and clofe up your cafk. Let it Hand three months, then bottle it, and it will be as pale and as fine as any citron water. Currant Wine. LET your currants be full r:pe, and gathered on a dry day. Strip them, put them into a large pan, and bruife them with a wooden peflle. Let them ftand in a tub or pan twenty-four hours to ferment, then run it through a hair fieve, and do not let your hand touch the MADE- WINES. 37 8 the liquor. To every gallon of this liquor put two* pounds and a half of white fugar, ftir it well together, and put it into your veffel. To every fix gallons put in a quart of brandy, and let it Hand fix weeks, if it be then fine, bottle it j but if it be not, draw it off as dear as you can into another veffel or large bottles, and in a fortnight put it into fmaller bottles. Raifin Wine. P U T two hundred weight of raifins, (talks and all, into a lafge hogfhead, and fill it with water. Let them deep a fortnight, (birring them every day ; then pour off the liquor, and prefs the raifins. Put both liquors together into a nice clean veffel that will juft hold it, for it muft be full. Let it (land till it has done hiding, or making the lead noife, then ftop it clofe, and let it ftand fix months. Peg it, and if you find it quite clear, rack it oft' into another veffel. Stop it again clofe, and let it ftand three months longer. Then bottle it, and when you ufe it, rack it off into a decanter. Grape Wine . T O a gallon of grapes put a gallon of water. Bruife the grapes, let them (land a week without ftirring, and then draw it off fine. Put to a gallon of the wine three pounds of fugar, and then put it into a veffel, but do not ftop it till it has done hiding. Cherry Wine. WHEN your cherries be full ripe, pull them off the (talks, and prefs them through a hair ficve. To every gallon of liquor put two pounds of lump fugar finely beaten, then ftir it together, and put it into a veffel, which muft be filled. When it has done work¬ ing, and ceafes to make any noife, ftop it clofe for three months, and bottle it off. Rajpberry Wine. WIT LI the back of a fpoon, bruife the fined rafp- berries you can get, and (train them through a flannel bag into a (tone jar. To each quajt of juice put % pound MADE WINES. 379 ' pound of double-refined fugar, then ftir it well toge¬ ther, and cover it clofe. Let it Hand three days, and then pour it off clear. To a quart of juice put two quarts of white wine, and then bottle it off. It will be fit for drinking in a week. Apricot Wine. TAKE three pounds of fugar, and three quarts of water; let them boil together, and fkim it well. Then put in fix pounds of apricots pared and ftoned, and let them boil till they be tender. Then take them up, and when the liquor be cold, bottle it up. You may, if you pleafe, after you have taken out the apricots, let the liquor have a boil with a fprig of flowered clary in it. The apricots will make marmalade, and be very good for prefent ufe. Vlum Wine. TAKE twenty pounds of Malaga raiflns, pick, rub, and fhred them, and put them into a tub. Then take four gallons of water, boil it an hour, and let it ftand till it be no more than milk-warm. Then putin your raifins, and let it Hand nine or ten days, ftirring it once or twice each day. Strain out your liquor, and mix it with two quarts of damfon juice. Put it into a veflfel, and w r hen it has done working, flop it up clofe. Let it ftand four or five months, and then bottle it. Mulberry Wine. GATHER your mulberries when they be juft changed from their rednefs to a fhining black, and be fure you gather them on a dry day, when the fun has taken off the dew. Spread them thinly on a fine cloth on a floor or table for twenty-four hours. Boil up a gallon of water to each gallon of juice you get out of them; then fkim the water well, and add a little cinna¬ mon (lightly bruifed. Put to each gallon fix ounces of white fugar-candy finely beaten; then fkim and ftrain the water, when it has been taken off and has fettled ; and put to it the juice of fome more mulberries. To every gallon of the liquor, add a pint of white wine or Rhenifh wine. 3 So MADE WINES. wine. Let it ftand in a cafk to purge or fettle for fiv$ or fix days, and then draw off the wine, and keep it cool. Walnut Wine. PUT two pounds of brown fugar, and a pound of honey, to every gallon of water. Boil them half an hour, and take off the ,fcum. Put into the tub a hand¬ ful of walnut leaves to every gallon, and pour the liquor upon them. Let it ftand all night, then take out the leaves, and put in half a pint of yeft. Let it, work fourteen days, and beat it four or five times a day, which will take off the fweetnefs. Then Hop up the calk, and let it ftand fix months. Quince Wine. vj r TAKE twenty large quinces, gathered when they be dry and full ripe. Wipe them clean with a coarfe cloth, and grate them with a large grate or rafp as near the cores as you can ; but do not touch the cores. Boil a gallon of fpring-water, throw in your quinces, and let them boil loftly about a quarter of an hour. Then ftrain them well into an earthen, pan on two pounds of double-refined fugar. Pare the peel off two large le¬ mons, throw them in, and fqueezc the juice through a fieve. Stir it about till it be very cool, and then loaft a thin bit of bread very brown, rub a little yeft on it, and let the whole ftand clofe covered twenty-four hours. Then take out the toaft and lemon, put the wine in a cafk, keep it three months, and then bottle it. Iff you make a twenty gallon cafk, let it ftand fix months be¬ fore you bottle it; and remember, when yc|u ftrain your quinces, to wring them hard in a coarfe cloth. Clary Wine. 1 TAKE twenty-four pounds of Malaga raifins, pick them and chop them very fmall. Then put them into a tub, and to each pound put a quart of water. Let them fteep ten or eleven days, ftirring $ twice every dav, and mind to keep it covered. Then ftrain it off, and put it into a veffel, with about half a peck of the tops of clary, when it be in bloffom. Stop it clofe for MADE WINES. 381 fix weeks, and then bottle it off. In two or three months it will be fit to drink. As it is apt to have a great fediment at bottom, it will be beft to draw it off O J by plugs, or tap it pretty high. Birch Wine. THE beginning of March is the feafon for pro¬ curing the liquor from the birch-trees, while the fap is riling, and before the leaves fhoot out; for when the fap is come forward, and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digefted 'in the bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was thin and clear. The method of procuring the juice is, by boring holes in the body of the tree, and putting in foffets, W'hich are ufually made of the branches or elder, the pith being taken out. You may, without hurting the tree, if it be large, tap it in feveral places, four or five at a time, and by that means fave, from a good many trees, feveral gallons every day. If you do not get enough in one day, the bottles in which it drops muff be corked clofe, and rofined or waxed; however, make ufe of it as foon as vou can. Take the fap and boil it as long as any fcum will rife, flamming it all the time. To every gallon of liquor put four pounds of good fugar, and the thin peel of a lemon. Then boil it half an hour, and keep flamming it well. Pour it into a clean tub, and when it be almoft cold, fet it to work with yell fpread upon a toaft. Let it hand five or fix days, fcirring it often. Then take a cafk juft large enough to hold all the liquor, fire a large match dipped in brimftone, and throw it into the cafk. Stop it clofe till the match be extinguifhed, then tun your wine, lay the bung on lightly till you find it has done working, then flop it clofe, and after three months, bottle it. You may make your birch wine with raifins in this manner. To a hoglhead of birch water, take four hundred of’ Malaga raifins; pick them clean from the ftalks, and cut them fmall. Then boil the birch liquor for one hour at leaf!:, fkim it well, and let it ftand till it be no warmer than milk. Then put in the raifins, t and MADE WINES. and let it Hand clofe covered, ftirring it well four or five times every day. Boil all the ftalks in a gallon or two of birch liquor, which, when added to the other when almoft cold, will give it an agreeable roughnefs. Let it (land ten days, then put it in a cool cellar, and when it be done hilling in the veffel, flop it up clofe. It mud: Hand at lead nine months before it be bottled. Cowjlip Wine. TAKE twelve pounds of fugar, the juice of fix lemons, the whites of four eggs well beaten, and fix gallons of water. Put all together in a kettle, and let it boil half an hour, taking care to fkim it well. Take a peck of cowflips, and put them into a tub, with the thin peeling of fix lemons. Then pour on the boiling liquor, and dir them about, and when it be almoft cold, put in a thin toaft, baked hard, and rubbed with yeft. Let it ftand two or three days to work. If you put in, before you tun it, fix ounces of fyrup of citron or lemon, with a quart of Rhenifti wine, it will be a great addi¬ tion. The third day ftrain it off, and fqueeze the cowflips through a coarfe cloth. Then ftrain it through a flannel bag, and tun it up. Leave the bung loofe for two or three days till you be fute it has done working, and then bung it down tight. Let it ftand three months, and then bottle it, Turnip Wine. TAKE as many turnips as you pleafe, pare and flice them, put them into a cyder prels, and prefs our all the juice. To every gallon of juice put three pounds of lump fugar, put both into a veffel juft big enough to hold them, and add to every gallon of juice half a pint of brandy. Lay fomething over the bung for a week, and when you are fure it has done working, bung it down clofe. When it has flood three months, draw it off into another veffel, and when it be fine, put it into bottles. Elder Wine. GATHER your elder berries when ripe, put them into a ftone jar, or let them in the oven, or in a kettle of MADE WINES. 383 of boiling water, till the jar be hot enough. Then take them out, and (train them through a hair cloth, wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean kettle. To every quart of juice, put a pound of fine Lifbon fugar, then let it boil, and lkim it well. When it be clear and fine, pour it into a jar, and when it be cold, cover it clofe, and keep it till you make raifin * wine. Then, when you tun your raifin wine, to every gallon put half a pint of the elder fyrup. This is more properly called elder raifin wine ; but if you would rather make it from the elder flowers alone, proceed thus: Take the flowers of elder, and take care that you do riot let any ftalks in. To every quart of flowers put one gallon of water, and three pounds of loaf-fugar. Boil the water and fugar a quarter of an hour, then pour it on the flowers, and let it work three days. Then (train the wine through a hair fieve, and put it into a cafk. To every ten gallons*of wine add an ounce of ifinglafs diflolved in cider, and fix whole eggs. Clofe it up, let it (land fix months, and then bottle it. Roje Wine. TAKE a well glazed earthen vefifel, and put into it three gallons of rofe water drawn with a cold (till. Put into that a fufficient quantity of rofe leaves, cover it clofe, and fet it for an hour in a kettle or copper of hot water, to take out the whole (trength and tindlure of the rofes; and when it be cold, prefs the rofe leaves hard into the liquor, and (teep frefh ones in it, repeating it till the liquor has got the full (trength of the rofes. To every gallon of liquor put three pounds of loaf fugar, and (tir it well, that it may melt and difperfe in every part. Then put it into a calk, or other conveni¬ ent velfel, to ferment, and put into it a piece of brpad toafted hard and covered with yeft. Let it (land about thirty days, when it will be ripe, and have a' fine flavour, having the whole (Length and fcent of the rofes in it; and you may greatly improve it, by adding to it wine and fpices. By this method of infufion, wine of carna- 4 lions. MADE WINES. 3 S ’4 tions, clove-gilly flowers, violets, primrofes, or any other flower having a curious (cent, may be made. Barley Wine . BOIL half a pound of French barley in three waters, and fave three pints of the laft water. Mix it with a quart of white wine, half a pint of borage water* as much clary water, a little red rofe water, the juice of five or fix lemons, three quarters of a pound of fine fugar, and the thin yellow rind of a lemon. Mix all thefe well together, run it through a ftrainer, and bottle it up. It is pleafant in hot weather, and is very good in fevers. Englifh Fig Wine . TAKE the large blue figs when pretty ripe, and Keep them in white wine, having made fome flits in them, that they may fwell and gather in the fubftance of the wine. Then flice fome other figs, and let them fimmer over a fire in fair water till they be reduced to a kind of pulp. Then {train out the water, preffing the pulp hard, and pour it as hot as poflible on the figs that are imbrued in the wine. Let the quantities be nearly equal, but the water fomewhat more than the wine and figs. Let them ftand twenty-four hours, mafh them well together, and draw off what will run without fqueezing. Then prefs the reft, and if it be not fweet enough, add a fufficient quantity of fugar to make it fo* Let it ferment, and add a little honey and fugar-candy to it; then fine it with whites of eggs and a little ifin- glafs, and draw it off for ufe. Ginger Wine. BOIL (even pounds of Lifbon fugar in four gallons of fpring water for a quarter of an hour, and keep fkimming it well. When the liquor be cold, fqueeze in the juice of two lemons, and then boil the peels, with two ounces of ginger, in three pints of water for an hour. When it be cold, put it all together into a barrel, with two fpoonfuls of yell, a quarter of an ounce of ifinglafs beat very thin,, and two pounds of jar raifins. 1 Then .MADE WINES, 38 $ Then clofe it up, let it Hand feven weeks, and then bottle it. The fpring is the beft feafon for making it, ’ Sycamore Wine , BOIL two gallons of the fap half an hour, and then add to it four pounds of fine powdered fugar. Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, and mix them with the liquor \ but take care that it be not too hot, as that will poach the eggs. Skim it well, and boil it half an hour* Then (train it through a hair fieve, and let it Band till next day. Theft pour it clean from the fedi- rnents, put half a pint of yeft to every twelve gallons, and cover it clofe up with blankets. Then put it into the barrel, and leave the bung-hole open till it 1ms done working. Then clofe it up well, and after it has ftood three months, bottle it. The fifth part of the fugar mu ft be loaf; and if you like raifins, they will be a great addition to the wine. Mead Wine . T FI E R E are different forts of mead, and thefe we fhall defcribe feparately. Sack mead is made thus; To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey, and boil it three quarters of an hour, taking care properly to (kim it. To each gallon add half an ounce of hops, then boil it half an hour, and let it Band till the next day. Then put it into your calk, and to thirteen gaL Ions of the above liquor add a quart of brandy or fack. Let it be lis:htlv clofed till the fermentation be done, and then Bop it up very clofe. If it be a large cafk, you muft not bottle it till it has Rood a year. Walnut mead is thus made : To every gallon of water put three pounds and a half of honey, and boil them together three quarters of an hour. Then to every gallon of liquor put about two dozen of walnut leaves, pour your liquor boiling hot upon them, and let them Band all night. Then take out the leaves, put in a fpoonful of yeft, and let it work two or three days. Then make it up, and after it has ftood three months, bottle it. C c CowHip 386 .MADE WINE S. Cowflip mead is made in this manner: To fifteen- 1 gallons of water put thirty pounds of honey, and boil it till one gallon be wafted. Skim it, take it off the fire, and have ready fixteen lemons cut in halves. Take a gallon of the liquor, and'put it to the lemons. Put the reft of the liquor into a tub, with feven pecks of cowfiips, and let them ftand all night. Then put in the liquor with the lemons,'eight fpoonfuls of new yeft,. and a handful of fweet-brier. Stir them all well toge¬ ther, and let it work three or four days. Then ftrain it, put it into your cafk, and after it has flood fix months, you may bottle it. As the following directions for making mead wine were communicated by a lady, we fhall give them in her own words* To one hundred and twenty gallons of pure water, the fofter the better, I put fifteen gallons of clarified honey. When the honey,be well mixed with the water, I fill my copper, the fame I ufe for brewing, which holds only fixty gallons, and boil it till it be re¬ duced about a fourth part. I then draw it off, and boil the remainder of the liquor in the fame manner. When this laft is about a fourth part wafted, I fill up the cop^- per with fome of that which was firft boiled, and con¬ tinue boiling it and filling it up, till the copper con¬ tains the whole of the liquor, by which time it will of courfe be half evaporated. I muff obferve, that in boiling, I never take eft' the feum, but, on the contrary, have it well mixed with the liquor whilfc boiling, by means of a jet. When this is done, 1 draw it oft-' into under backs, by a cock at the bottom of the copper,, in which I let it remain till it be only as warm as new milk. At this time I tun it up, and fuffer it to fer¬ ment in the veffel, where it will form a thick head.. As fcon as it is done working, I flop it down very clofe, in order to keep the air from it as much as poffible. I keep this, as well as my mead, in a cellar or vault I have for the purpofe, being very deep and cool, and the door fhut fo clofc, as to keep out, in a manner, all the outward air : fo that the liquor is always in the fame temperature, being not at all affefted by the change oi weather. To this I attribute, in a great meafure, the MADE WINES, 387 the goodnefs of my mead. Another proportion I have of making mead, is to allow eighty pounds of purified honey to one hundred and twenty gallons of foft water, which I manage in the making, in all refpecds, like the firft abovementioned, and it proves very pleafant, good, light drinking, and is by many preferred to the other, which is much richer, and has a fuller flavour; but at the fame time it is more inebriating, and apt to make the head-ach, if drank in too large quantities. I ima¬ gine, therefore, upon the whole, the laid to be the pro- • portion that makes the wholefomeft liquor for common drink, the other being rather, when properly preferved, a rich cordial, fomething like fine old Malaga, which, when in perfection, is juftly efteemed the bed of the Spanifti wines. I choofe, in general, to have the liquor pure and genuine, though many like it bell when it has an aromatic flavour; and for this purpofe they mix elder, rofemary, and marjoram flowers with it; and alfo ufe cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and cardamums, in va¬ rious proportions, according to their tafte. Others put in a mixture of thyme, eglantine, marjoram, and rofe¬ mary, with various fpices ; but I do not approve this laid practice at all, as green herbs are apt to make mead drink fiat; and too many cloves, befldes being very predominant in the talde, make it of too high a colour. I never bottle my mead before it be half a year old ; and when I do, I take care to have it well corked, and keep it in the fame vault wherein it flood whilft in the calk. Balm Wine . TAKE forty pounds of fugar and nine gallons of water, boil it gently for two hours, fkim it well, and put it into a tub to cool. Take two pounds and a half of the tops of balm, bruife them, and put them into a bar¬ rel with a little new yeft; and when the liquor be cold, pour it on the balm. Stir it well together, and let it ftand twenty-four hours, ftirring it often. Then clofe it up, and let it ftand fix weeks. Then rack it off, and put a lump of fugar into every bottle. Cork it well, and it will be better the fecond year than the firft. C c 2 Main - ■ MADE WINES. ' Mountain Wine. PICK out the large (talks of your Malaga raifins, chop them very fmall, and put five pounds of them to every gallon of cold fpring-water. Let them fteep a fortnight or more, then fqueeze out the liquor, and put it into a fmall vefifel that will juft hold it; but firft fume it with brim (tone. Do not (top it up till the hiding be over. Cyprus Wine. T O imitate Cyprus wine, to nine gallons of water you muft put nine quarts of the juice of the white elder berries, which has been prefifed gently from the berries with the hand, and pafifed through a fieve without bruit¬ ing the kernels of the berries. Add to every gallon of liquor three pounds of Lifbon fugar, and to the whole quantity put an ounce and a half of ginger diced, and three quarters of an ounce of cloves. Then boil all near an hour, taking off the fcum as it rifes, and pour the whole to cool in an open tub, and work it with ale yeft fpread upon a toaft of white bread for three days; then turn it into a vefifel that will juft hold it, adding about a pound and a half of raifins of the fun fplit, to lie in the liquor till you draw it off, which fhould not be till the wine be fine. Frontiniac Wine. TAKE twelve pounds of white fugar, fix pounds of raifins of the fun cut fmall, and fix gallons of water, and let them boil an hour. Then take half a peck of the flowers of elder, when they be falling, and will fhake off. Put them in the liquor when it be almoft cold, and the next day put in fix fpoonfuls of the fyrup of le¬ mons, and four fpoonfuls of ale yeft. Two days after¬ wards put it into a vefifel that will juft hold it, and when it has ftood two months, bottle it off. Englijh Champagne. T O three gallons of water put nine pounds of Lif- bon fugar, and boil the water and fugar half an hour, obfervii g to fkim it well. Then take a gallon of cur¬ rants \ MADE WINES. 3*9 rants picked, but not bruifed, and pour the liquor boil¬ ing hot over them. When it be nearly cold, put into it fome barm, keep working it for two days, and then ftrain it through a flannel, or fieve. Put it into a barrel that will juft hold it, with half an ounce of iftnglafs well bruifed. When it has done working, flop it clofe for a month, then bottle it, and in every bottle put a very fmall lump of double-refined fugar. This is excellent wine, and has a beautiful colour. Saragofa Wine , cr EngliJJj Sack. PUT a fprig of rue into every quart of water, and to every gallon put a handful of fennel roots. Boil thefe half an hour, then ftrain it, and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of honey. Boil it two hours, andfkim it well. When it be cold, pour it off, and turn it into a calk or veffel that will juft hold it. Keep it a year in the veffel, and then bottle it. 'Palermo Wine. T O every quart of water put a pound of Malaga raifins, rub and cut them fmall, and put them to the water. Let them ftand ten days, ftirring them once or twice every day. You may boil the water an hour be¬ fore you put it to the raifins, and let it ftand to cool. At ten days end, ftrain out the liquor, and put a little yeft to it. At the end of three days put it into the vef¬ fel, with a fprig of dried wormwood. Let it be Jlopt clofe, and at the end of three months you may bottle it. Vino Pcntificalo. STEEP the zeft rinds of fix oranges and fix le¬ mons twenty-four hours in a gallon of good brandy, clofe flopped. Boil a pound and a half of loaf fugar in two gallons of water a quarter of an hour, and clarify it with the whites of ten eggs. When it be cold, add the juice of twenty-four oranges and five lemons to the gallon of brandy. Then mix all together, and ftrain off the rinds. Put the liquor into a cafk well flopped, and after fix weeks draw it into bottles, when it will be fit for ufe, but will grow the better for keeping. MADE WINES. 39 ° Rafpberry Brandy. TAKE a pint of water and two quarts of brandy* and put them into a pitcher large enough to hold them and four pints of rafpberries. Put in half a pound of loaf fugar, and let it remain for a week clofe covered. Then take a piece of flannel, with a piece of Holland over it, and let it run through by degrees. It may be racked into other bottles, a week after, and then it will be perfectly fine. Black Cherry Brandy . STONE eight pounds of black cherries, and put on them a gallon' of the bell brandy. Bruife the ftones in a mortar, and then put them into your brandy. Co¬ ver them up clofe, and let them (land a month or fix weeks. Then pour it clear from the fediments, and bottle it. Morello cherries, managed in this manner, make a fine rich cordial. Lemon Brandy. PUT five quarts of water to one gallon of brandy, take two dozen of lemons, two pounds of the belt fugar, and three pints of milk. Pare the lemons very thin, and lay the, peel to fteep in the brandy twelve hours. Squeeze the lemons upon the fugar, then put the water to it, and mix all the ingredients together. Boil the milk, and pour it in boiling hot. Let it ftand twenty-four hours, and then ftrain it. Orange Brandy. PUT the chips of eighteen Seville oranges into three quarts of brandy, and let them fteep a fortnight in a ftone bottle clofe flopped. Boil two quarts of fpring- water with a pound and a half of the fineft fugar, near an hour very gently. Clarify the water and fugar with the white of an egg, then ftrain it through a jelly bag, and boil it near half away. When it is cold, ftrain the brandy into the fyrup. C H A P, CORDIAL WATERS. 39 1 C H A P. II. CORDIAL WATERS. Preliminary Hints and Obfervations, W HEN your ftill be a limbec, fill the top with cold water when you fet it on, make a little pafte of flour and water, and clofe the bottom of your ■ftill well with it. Take great care that your fire be not fo hot as to make it boil over, as that will weaken the ftrength of vour water. You muft frequently change your water on the top of your ftill, and never let it be Raiding hot, and your ftill will drop gradually off. If you ufe a hot ftill, when you put on the top, dip a cloth In white lead and oil, and lay it well over the edges of your ftill, and a coarfe wet cloth over the top. It will require little fire under it; but you muft be fure to ■keep it very clear. When your cloth be dry, dip it in cold water, and lay it on again; and if your ftill be very hot, wet another cloth, and lay it round the top. If you ufe a worm ftill, keep the water in your tub full to the top, and change it often, to prevent its growing hot. All ft tuple waters muft (land two or three days before' you work it, in order to take off the fiery tafte which the ftill gives it. S taps-He art Water . TAKE four handfuls of balm, and a handful of fweet marjoram; rofemary flowers, clove gilliflowers dried, rofe-buds dried, and borage flowers, of each an ounce ; marigold flowers half an ounce, lemon-peel two ounces, mace and cardamum thirty grains of each, cinnamon fixty grains, or yellow and white finders, of each a quar¬ ter of an ounce ; (havings of hartfhorn an ounce, and the peels of nine oranges. Cut them in ftnall pieces, and pour upon them two quarts of the beft Rhenifh, C c 4 or I CORDIAL WATERS. I or the bell white wine. Let it infufe three or four days, being very clofe (topped, in a cellar or cool place. If you let it infufe nine or ten days, it will be the better for it. Take.a (tag’s heart, and cut off the fat; cut it very fmall, and pour in as much Rheniih or white wine as will cover it. Let it ftand all night covered in a cool place, and the next day add the aforefaid things to it, mixing it very well together, and adding to it a pint of the belt rofe water, and a pint of the juice of celan¬ dine. If you pleale, you may put in ten grains of faf- fron, and fo put it into a glafs {till, diddling in water, raiding it well to keep in the deanv both of the dill and receiver. 1 Cordial Water. TAKE wormwood, horehound, feverfew, and la¬ vender-cotton, of each three handfuls; rue, peppermint, and Seville orange-peel, of each a handful. Steep them in red wine, Or the bottoms of drong-beer, all night. Then didil them pretty quick in a hot dill, and it will be a fine cordial to take as bitters. Angelica Water . TAKE eight handfuls of the leaves of angelica, wadi and cut them, and lay them on a table to dry. When they be dry, put them into an earthen pot, and put to them four quarts of drong wine lees. Let it in¬ fufe twenty-four hours, but dir it twice in the time. Then put it into a warm dill or an alembic, and draw it off. Cover your bottles with a paper, and prick holes in it, and let it dand two or three days. Then mix ail together, fweeten it, and when it be fettled, bottle it up, and dop it clofe. Peppermint Water . YOUR peppermint mud be gathered when it be full grown, and before it feeds. Cut it in fhort lengths, fill your dill with it, and cover it with water. Then make a good fire under it, and when it be near boiling, and the dill begins to drop, if your fire be too hot, draw a little from under it, as you fee occafion, to keep it from CORDIAL WATERS. 393 from boiling over, or your water will be muddy. The flower your ftill drops, the clearer and ftronger will be your water; bur do not fpend it too far. The next day bottle it, and let it Hand three or four days, to take off the fiery tafte of the ftill. Then cork it well, and it will keep a long time. Milk Water . TAKE the herbs agrimony, endive, fumitory, balm, elder flowers, white nettles, water creffcs, bank creffes, and fage, of each three handfuls 3 eyebright, brook lime, and celandine, of each two handfuls; the roles of yellow dock, red madder, fennel, horfe-radifh, and liquorice, of each three ounces; ftoned raifins one pound ; nut¬ megs diced, winter bark, turmeric, and galangal, of each two drams ; carraway and fennel feeds, of each three ounces, and one gallon of milk. Diftil all with a gentle fire in one day. Roje Water . GATHER your red roles when they be dry and full blown; pick off the leaves, and to every peck put a quart of water. Then put them into a cold ftill, and make a flow fire under it; for the flower you diftil it, the better it will be. Then bottle it, and in two or three days time you may cork it. Cordial Poppy Water. TAKE a peck of poppies, and two gallons of very good brandy. Put them together in a wide-mouthed glafs, let them ftand forty-eight hours, and then {train them out. Stone a pound of raifins of the fun, and take an ounce of coriander feeds, an ounce of fweet fennel feeds, and an ounce of liquorice fliced. Bruife them all together, and put them into the brandy, with a pound of good powder fugar. Let them ftand four or eight weeks, fhaking it every day, then {train it off, and bottle it up clofe. Penny-Royal Water. G AT HER your penny-royal when it be full grown, and before it be in bloffom. Then fill your cold ftill with 394 CORDIAL WATERS, with it, and put it half full of water. Make a mode¬ rate fire under it, and diftil it off cold. Then put it into bottles, and, after two or three days, cork it up clofe. "Treacle Water. TAKE four pounds of the juice of green walnuts; rue, carduus, marigolds, and balm, of each three pounds $ roots of butter-bur, half a pound; roots of burdock, one pound j angelica‘and mafterwort, of each half a pound ; leaves of fcordium, fix handfuls 5 Venice-treacle and mithridates, of each half a pound ; old Canary wine, two pounds; white wine vinegar, fix pounds, and the lame quantity of the juice of lemons. Diftil all thefe in an alembic. The following was Lady Monmouth’s method of dif- tilling this water: Take three ounces of hartfhorn, fnaved, and boiled in borrage-water, or fuccory, wood- forrel, or refpice water; or three pints of any of thefe waters boiled to a jelly, and put the jelly and hartfhorn both into a ftill. Add a pint more o f ' thefe waters when you put it into the ftill. Take the roots of elecampane, gentian, cyprefs tuninfd, of each an ounce; bleflfed thiftle, called carduus, and angelica, of each an ounce; forrel-roots, two ounces ; balm, fweet marjoram, and fcurnet, of each half a handful; lily-convally flowers, barrage, buglofs, rofemary, and marigold flowers, of each two ounces; citron rinds, carduus feeds, citron feeds, alkermes berries, and cochineal, each of thefe an ounce. Prepare all thefe Air pies thus : Gather-the flowers as they come in feafon, and put them in glaffes with a large mouth. Put with them as much good fack as will cover them, and tie up the glaffes clofe with blad¬ ders wet in the fack, with a cork and leather upon that, adding more flowers and fack, till you have a proper quantity. Put cochineal into a pint bottle, with half a pint of fack, and tie it up clofe with a bladder under the cork, and another on the top, wet with fack. Then cover it up clofe with leather, and bury it, ftanding up¬ right in a bed of hot horfe-dung, nine or ten days. Then look at it, and, if it be diffolved, take it out of 4 • the CORDIAL WATERS. 395 vhe dung); but do not open it till you diftil. Slice all the roots, beat the feeds and berries, and put them into another glafs. Put no more fack among them than ne- ceffary; and when you intend to diftil, take a pound of the belt Venice treacle, and diffolve it in fix pints of the beft white wine, and three of red rofe water. Put all the ingredients together, ftir them, and diftil them in a glafs ft ill. Lavender Water. PUT a quart of water to every pound of lavender- neps. Put them into a cold frill, and make a flow fire under it. Diftil it off very flowly, and put it into a pot till you have diftilled all your water. Then clean your ftill well out, and put your lavender water into it, and diftil it off as flowly as before. Then put it into bot¬ tles, and cork it well. Walnut Water. BRUISE well in a large mortar a peck of fine green walnuts, put them into a pan with a handful of balm bruifed, and two quarts of good French brandy. Cover them clofe, and let them lie three days. Then diftil them in a cold ftill; and from this quantity draw three quarts, which you may do in a day. Aqua Mirabilis. TAKE cubebs, cardamoms, galingal, doves, mace, nutmegs, and cinnamon, of each two drachms, and bruife them final!. Then take a pint of the juice of celandine, half a pint of the juice of fpearmint, and the fame quantity of the juice of balm; flowers of melilot, cowflip, rofemary, borrage, buglofs, and marigolds, of each three drachms; feeds of fennel, coriander, and carraway, of each two drachms; two quarts of the beft fack, and a quart of white wine; brandy, the ftrongeft angelica water, and rofe water, of each a pint. Bruife the fpices and feeds, and fteep them, with the herbs and flowers, in the juices, waters, fack, white wine, and brandy, all night. In the morning, diftil it in a com¬ mon ftill pafted up, and from this quantity you may draw 396 CORDIAL WATERS. draw off a gallon at leaft. Sweeten it to your tafte with fugar-candy, then bottle it up, and keep it in a cool place. Black Cherry Water . BRUISE fix pounds of black cherries, and put to them the tops of rofemary, fweet marjoram, fpearmint, angelica, balm, and marigold flowers, of each a hand¬ ful ; dried violets, an ounce; anife-feeds, and fweet fen¬ nel feeds, of each half an ounce bruifed. Cut the herbs lmali, mix all together, and diftil them off in a cold Hill. Surfeit Water . TAKE fcurvy-grafs, brook-lime, water-creffes, Ro¬ man wormwood,' rue, mint, balm, fage, and dives, of each one handful; green merery two handfuls; poppies, if frefb, half a peck; but if they be dry, only half that quantity; cochineal and faffron, fix-pennyworth of each ; anifefeeds, carraway feeds, coriander feeds, and carda- murn feeds, of each an ounce ; two ounces of fcraped liquorice, a pound of fplit figs, the fame quantity of raifins of the fun ftoned, an ounce of juniper berries bruifed, an ounce of beaten nutmeg, an ounce of mace bruifed, and the fame of fweet fennel feeds alfo bruifed; a few flowers of rofemary, marigold, and fage. Put all thefe into a large ftone jar, and put to them three gal¬ lons of French brandy. Cover it clofe, and let it ftand near the fire for three weeks. Stir it three tim£s a week, and be fure to keep it clofe Hopped, and then ftrain it off. Bottle your liquor, and pour on the in¬ gredients a bottle more of French brandy. Let it ftand a week, ftirring it once a day, then diftil it in a cold ftill, and you will have a fine white furfeit water. Though this is beft made in fummer, yet you may make it at any time of the year, if you live in London, becaufe the ingredients are always to be had there either green or dry. Uyjlerical Water. TAKE betony, roots of lovage, and feeds of wild parfnips, of each two ounces ; four ounces of roots of Angle CORDIAL WATERS. 39 7 fingle peony., three ounces of milletoe of the oak, a quar¬ ter of an ounce of myrrh, arjft half an ounce of caftor. Beat all thefe together, ancf add to them a quarter of a pound of dried millepedes. Pour on thefe three quarts of mugwort water, and two quarts of brandy. Let them jftand in a clofe veffel eight days, and then diftil them in a cold ftill palled up. You muft draw off nine pints of water, and fweeten it to your tafte. Mix all together, and bottle it up. Orange or Lemon Water. P U T three gallons of brandy and two quarts of fack to the outer rinds of an hundred oranges or lemons, and let them lleep in it one night. The next day diftil them in a cold ftill. A gallon, with the proportion of peels, will be enough for one ftill, and from that you may draw off better than three quarts. Draw it off till you find it begins to tafte four. Sweeten it to your tafte with double-refined fugar, and mix the ftrft, fecond, and third runnings together. If it be lemon water, it fhould be perfumed, with two grains of ambergris, and one of mufk. Grind them fine, tie them in a rag, and let it hang five or fix days in each bottle; or you may put into them three or four drops of tindlure of ambergris. Be fure to cork it well. Imperial Water. TAKE a large jar, and put into it two ounces of cream of tarter, with the juice and peels of two lemons. Pour on them feven quarts of boiling water, and when it be cold, clear it through a gauze fieve, fweeten it to your tafte, and bottle it. The next day it will be fit for ufe. Spirits of Wine. PUT the bottoms of ftrong beer, and any kind of wines, into a cold ftill about three parts full. Then make a flow fire under it, and take care to keep it mo¬ derate, otherwife it will boil over, the body being fo ftrong that it will rife to the top of the ftill; and the Hover you diftil it, the ftronger your fpirit will be. Put it 3 9 S MALT LI Q^U O R S. it into an earthen pot till you have done diftilling, and then clean your ftill well out. Then put the fpirit into it, and diftil it (lowly as before, till it be ftrong enough to burn in your lamp. Bottle it, and then cork it well. Fever Water. TAKE fix ounces of Virginia fnake-root, four ounces of carduus feeds and marigold flowers, and twenty green walnuts; carduus water and poppy water, two quarts of each, and two ounces of hartfhorn. Slice the walnuts, and deep all in the waters a fortnight. Then add to it an ounce of London treacle, and diftil the whole in an alembic pafted up. CHAP. III. MALT LI QJJ O R S. FTER having given directions idr the preparation jLJL of made wines and cordial waters, it would un¬ doubtedly be thought an unpardonable omifiion to pafs over malt liquors unnoticed, as the houfekeeper cannot be faid to be complete in her buflnefs without fome knowledge of this matter. We mean not, however, to enter on all the various branches of the brewery, as that would fill a volume of itfelf, and be very foreign to out* prefent purpofe. All we intend is, to give the houfe¬ keeper general directions for brewing, and the manag¬ ing and keeping fuch ftrong and fmall beer as may be neceflary in a numerous family. The firft thing to be coniidered is undoubtedly the being provided with implements proper for the purpofe, and of thefe the copper appears to be the firft object The I MALT LI QJJ O R S. 39 $ The pofition of the copper, and the manner of fetting it, muft be duly confidered, as much depends thereon. The manner proper to be adopted is, to divide the fire by a flop; and, if the door and draught be in a direct line, the (top (hould be erecfted from the middle of each outline of the grating, and parallel with the center tides of the copper. By this method, .the middle of the fire will be direftly under the bottom of the copper. The flop is compofed of a thin wall in the centre of the right and left fides of the copper, which is to afcend half the height of the copper. On the top muft be left a cavity, from four to fix inches, for a draught for the half part of the fire which is next the door of the cop¬ per ; and then the building muft clofe all round to the finishing at the top. By this mode- of erefling your copper, the heat will communicate from the outward part of your fire round the outward half cf your copper, through the cavity, as does the furtheft part of the flue, which alfo contracts a conjunction of the whole, and caufes the flame to glide gently and equally round the bottom of your copper. M^ny are the advantages derived from this manner of proceeding, and the fuel faved thereby is no fmall ob- jedt of confideration. It has confiderably the pre-emi¬ nence of wheel draughts ; for with them, if there be not particular attendance given to the hops, by ftirring them down, they are apt fo ftick to the fides, and fcorch; and this will undoubtedly very much hurt the flavour of your liquor. The copper will alley, by this method, laft many years more than it would by the wheel draught; for that draws with fo much violence, that fhould your liquor be beneath the communication of the fire, your copper will thereby be liable to be damaged : whereas, by the other contrivances, you may boil half a copper full without fear of injury. This muft be allowed to be a great advantage, as in all brewing it is impoftible to draw it clean off the mafh. In order to give greater expedition to the operation, you may fometimes wifh to extend this, advantage to a » few pails full, which is done without prejudice to the other; 400 MALT LI QJJ ORS. ether; for when the whole of the other is clean drawn off, the copper will accomplifh your intended purpofe next morning, which will prevent interfering with your natural reft; for by running the whole night, it will be ready to boil in the morning, and be fit to add to the working of the other fmall beer, in time to render the whole complete for tunning. By this method, alfo, you are not under the neceftity of having your copper turned, which is a very troublefome and difagreeable bufinefs, to unfix and refix large cocks, which is like- wife attended with a great expence. Another inconvenience too frequently found in cop¬ pers is, their being made too exadt to their intended quantity ; in confequence of which, room is not left fuf- ficient to boil the liquor in with any degree of rapidity or fafety, which muft naturally be fuppofed to be eflen- tial points. To remedy this inconvenience, let your carpenter prepare good feafoned pieces of elm, or other proper wood, and fhape it out like the tiller of a ftage waggon-wheel, but only half its thicknefs, and then join them round to compofe the dimenfions of the circle of your copper. The rim of the copper, which generally turns over as a bearing at the top, may be beat up, and that part nailed to the bottom part of the wood-work, bruflftng between the wood-work and the copper, a ce¬ ment compofed of bullock’s blood and whiting, mixed only to the thicknefs of common whitewafh. This ce¬ ment will prevent any leak, and iaft as long as the cop¬ per. Though the wood-work may be done with great fafety all round, yet it will be neceflary to take this precaution, never to let the wood-work join nearer than eight inches on each fide of the copper flue, or the communication of the heat. If there be any apprehenflon of its pene¬ trating through in that diredlion, you muft then nail either brafs, copper, plate-iron, or fheet-lead, which ever can be moft conveniently gotten. If your neigh¬ bourhood cannot furnifh you with thefe matters, there will probably be always a fufficient fupply in your houfe of decayed pots, pans, or kettles, whieh may be beat 2 OUt M A L T L I QJJ OR S. 401 out to fuit your purpofe. Any fmith, tinker, carpen¬ ter, &c. can execute fuch a piece of work, obferving the lame cement, which will be as good and as firm as folder in other matters. This work is of great fupport and eafe to your cop¬ per; and by this mode you can alfo increafe its dimen- fions from three to twelve or more inches in the wood¬ work, which will add confiderably to your gauge, efpe- cially in large coppers. This method, however, is re¬ commended only where ftop draughts -are made ufe of, in which cafe the wood may be applied round with great fafety; for the fires of thofe never burn fo furioully that the leaft damage can enfue. For the raifing of other coppers, built on different conftrucftions, brick, ftone, or tarris mortar, may be ufed. The next thing to be confidered are the coolers , and thefe are things of no fmall confequence ; for, if they be not properly taken care of, the liquor, by a feemingly fecret and unaccountable caufe, will attra£l a dilagree- able tang. This often proceeds from wet having been infufed in the wood, as it is fometimes apt to lodge in the crevices of old coolers, and even infect them to fuch a degree, that it will not depart, though many wafhings and fcaldings are applied. One caufe incidental to this evil, is permitting women to wafh in a brewhoufe, which ought by no means to be permitted, where any other convenience is to be had ; for nothing can be more hurt¬ ful than the flops of dirty foap-fuds. Be careful, when you prepare the coolers, never to let the water Hand too long in them, as it will foak in, and foon turn putrid, when the ftench will enter the wood, and render them almoft incurable. To prevent Inch confequences, as well as to anfvver good purpofes, it has by fome been recommended, where all fixed brew- houfes are intended, that all the coolers fhould be lead¬ ed. In the firff: place, fuch are exceedingly cleanly ; and, fecondly, it expedites the cooling of part of your liquor worts, which is very necelTary to forward it for working, as well as afterwards for cooling the whole; for evaporation caufes confiderably more wafte than pro- D d per 402 MALT LI Q^U 0 R S. per boiling. Chymifts tell us, that the more the fleam, the more the ftrength of any fluid is exhaufted; as is further proved by the ftill, where the fleam being con¬ fined, the chief ftrength is kept in ; but, being expofed to the air, it foon evaporates. It will alfo be indifpenfably neceflary, in the prepara¬ tion of your utenfils, that your coolers be well fcoured. with cold water two or three times, cold water being more proper than hot to effedt a perfebt cleanfing, efpe- cially if they be in a bad condition from the undifco- vered filth that may be in the crevices. The applica¬ tion of hot water will drive the infebtion further; or if your drink be let into the coolers, and if any remain in the crevices as before-mentioned, the heat will collect the foulnefs, and render the whole unwholefome. Some pretended judges of this matter abfurdly argue, that ropinefs in beer proceeds from the want of a fuf- ficient quantity of hops, to difpel the glutinous richnels arifing from the fuperiority of malt, which is a manifeft miftake, except when it is too much boiled, and receives bad management afterwards. Others fay, that it is by applying the water too fharp, that is, too hot to mafh with ; but, if the water did not produce that fault, it has another equally as dangerous; and that is, wffien you mafh with water fo exceedingly hot, it is liable to let the malt; which is clogging it up to fuch a degree, that it is almoft impoflible to get it to run off; and when by art you have accompliffied the difficulty, it never an- fwers your wifhes in point of goodnefs. To fhew by an experiment, the difagreements of heats and colds, which muft be applicable in the cafe of brew¬ ing, proceed thus : Take a pail of cold water, and throw it on a quantity of grains, and it will almoft immedi¬ ately become ropy. There are, however, fome brewers fo curious, as to put cold water on the mafh, and vainly imagine, that it gets out the whole of the ftrength ; but this is a ridiculous notion, which cannot get a favour¬ able reception, notwithftanding they fay it makes excel¬ lent toplafh, or rather rot-gut fmall-beer. It MALT LI QJJ ORS. 403 It is very lingular, that fome families fhould have fuch an averfion to the thoughts of brewing, which pro¬ bably arifes from the terrible apprehenfions they con¬ ceive of the expence and incumbrance attending the fitting up of a brewhoufe, which is an ill-founded con¬ ception, and ought to have no weight in a rational mind. It is not from being fufficiently competent to know bet¬ ter, that people fet their faces again ft brewing; but it is from pride, that bane of all good, that fets them above fo inconfiderable a thought, as they deem it, and a total negligence of their own and their country’s welfare. A whole fet of coolers, properly made, may be removed from houle to houfe with great facility and little ex¬ pence, and with lefs injury than other furniture, pro¬ vided they be made according to the following direc¬ tions. Let ftrong frames be conftructed for each cooler, in fuch a manner, that they may be unwedged and taken afunder when occafion requires. The outfide frame fhould turn up pretty high, that is fufficiently thick and ftrong, to cut a proper inlet to receive wedges for the purpofes hereafter-mentioned. Form your coolers, which are to confift of only common planed deal boards, and lay them even to fit on this frame, which, from a pro¬ jection and inlet, you can fet the fide to the bottom ; and it will be neceflary that the inlet fhould be a little lower than where the bottom refts. By thefe means, the wedges will have full power to tighten the fides to as great an extremity as a hooped barrel; and thefe wedges fhould be in three regular directions on the fides, and at two places at each end, which will form perfect firm- nefs. If the coolers be made in regular fizes under each other, you may fet ftrong caftors in mortices under the legs, by which means you can drive them under each other, fo as the whole to go under the uppermoft, which is a good method of letting them out of harm’s way. Bv this mode of conftrution, the chief of your brew¬ ing utenfils, the copper excepted, may be unwedged, and with little trouble packed into a waggon, in the lpace of two hours, and fet up in another brewhoufe in the Dd 2 like 404 MALT LI Q^U 0 R S. like proportionable time. If you fhould afterwards chufe to difpofe of the materials, that may be done with¬ out lofs, as the boards will not be damaged by either pins, nails, or fcrews. When a fmall quantity, fuch as a hogfhead only is required, they may be made like drawers, pulling out in grooves, and refting on treflels, which may be very conveniently put out of danger in the manner before directed. Be particularly careful that the majh-tub be kept per¬ fectly clean; nor muft the grains be left in the tub any longer than the day after brewing, left it fhould four the tub; for if there be a four fmell in the brewhoufe before your beer be tunned, it will be apt to infect your li¬ quor and worts. To render your tub the more perfect and lafting, you fhould have a circular piece of brafs or copper, to inlay and line the hole where the penftaff enters, to let the wort run off into the under back. The penftaff Ihould be alfo ftoutly fer’relled with the fame metal, and both well and taperly finifhed, fo that you can place it pro¬ perly. By this method, you may have it run from the finenefs of a thread to the fullnefs of an inch tube, &c, firft drefting your muck-bafket with ftraw, fern, or little bufhy furze without Items, fix or eight inches in from the bottom of your balket, and let quite perpendicularly over the whole with the penftaff, through the centre of the balket, and the middle of the furze or fern, and fattened into the hole of the tub. To fteady it proper¬ ly, you muft have a piece of iron let into a ftaple fattened to the tub, at the neareft part oppofite to the' balket, and to reach nearly to it; and from that piece another added on a jointed lwivel, or any other contrivance, fo as to be at liberty to let round the balket like a dog col¬ lar, and to enter into the ftaple formed in the fame to pin it fall, and by adding a half-circular turn in the col¬ lar, in which you have room to drive in a wedge, which will keep it fafe down to the bottom, when there can be no danger of its being difturbed by ftirring the malh, which will otherwife fometimes be the cafe. When you let go, you will raife the penftaff' to your own degree of running . M A L T LI Q U O R So 405 running, and then fallen the ftaff by the help of two wedges tightened between the ftaff and the balket. The copper-work, in procefs of time, like every thing elfe, will become defective, and when this be the cafe, the following very fimple remedy will make the parts as 'perfeft as ever; Work the penftaff in the brafs focket with emery and water, or oil, which will make it per¬ haps more perfeCt than when new, and many inftances have been feen of tins method being ufed with cocks juft purchafed. It would be no inconftderable addition to the conveni- ency of the underb^cks, to have a piece of copper to line the hole in the bottom, which may be Hopped with a cloth put fingly round a large cork; and when it be faftened do wn for the wort to run, it will be necellary to put a large weight on the cork, which will prevent its flying up by the heat. When the liquor be pumped clean out of the back, the cloth round the cork will enable you to take out the cork with eafe; and there fhould be a drain belowthe under back to carry off the water, which will enable you to wafh it perfectly clean with very little trouble. This drain fhould be made with a clear defcent, fo that no damp may remain under the back. With the conveyance of water running into your copper, you may be enabled to work that water in a double quantity, your under back being filled by the means of letting it in at your leifure, out of your copper, through a fhoot to the mafh-tub, and fo to the under back. Thus you will have a referve againft the time you wifti to fill your copper, which may be com¬ pleted in a few minutes, by pumping while the upper cock be running. Thus much for the principal uten- fils in brewing; but be careful to keep every thing per¬ fectly clean. As we have now properly explained the precautions neceffary to be taken in the preparation of veflfels, we fhall enter into a concife detail of what is to be ob- ferved in the courfe of brewing. Having your utenfils fcalded, your malt ground, your copper boiling, and your penftaff well let, you muft b d 3 , then 4 c6 MALT LI QJJ O R S, then proceed to math, by letting a fufficient quantity of boiling water into your tub, in which it muft ftand until the greater part of the fteam be gone off, or until you can fee your own fhadow in it. It will be then ne- cefiary, that one perfon fhould pour the in alt gently in, while another be carefully ftirring it; for it is as necef- fary, that as much care fhould be obferved when the mafh be thin as when it be thick. This being effectu¬ ally and well done, and having a fufficient referve of malt to cover the mafh, to prevent evaporation, you may cover your tub with hacks, &c. and leave your malt three hours to fteep. Previous to your letting the mafh run, you fhould not fail to be prepared with a pail to catch the firft fluff, as that is generally thickifh; and another pail being ap¬ plied while you return the firft on the mafh, and fo on, for two or three times, or at leaft until it run fine. By this time your copper fhould be boiling, and a conve¬ nient tub placed clofe to your maff-tub; let into it through your fpout half the quantity of boiling water you mean to ufe for drawing off your beft wort, After this, you muft inftantly turn your cock to fill up again, which will boil in due time with cinders or coal-afhes. During fuch time, you muft flop the mafh with this hot water out of the convenient tub, in moderate quantities, every eight or ten minutes, until the whole be confumed ; then letting off the remaining quantity, which will be boiling hot, to the finifhing purpofe for ftrong beer. You muft then fill your copper quite full, fo as to boil quickly for the fecond mafh, whether you intend it for ale or fmall beer. Being thus far prepared, let off the remaining quantity of water into the tub, as you did for the ftrong beer, flopped up as before; but if you would have fmall beer befides, you muft judge it ac¬ cordingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due time, and letting it into the tub as before. It is better to avoid the latter article, that you may entirely draw out the ftrength for the ale. Twenty-four buffels of malt will make two hogfheads of as good ftrong beer as any in England, and alfo two 4oy M ALT LI QJJ O R S. hogfheads of very pretty ale. This ftrong beer fhould be kept two or three years, and the ale never lefs than one, before tapped. If your mafia be only for one hogfhead, it fhould be two hours in running off; if for two hogfheads, two hours and a half; and for any greater quantity, three hours : for there is no good in letting it be too long, as the whole ftrength is extradted by the frequent hoppings. You mult be particular in the tinae of fteeping your mafhes. Strong beer mud be allowed three hours ; ale, one hour; and, if you draw fmall beer after, half an hour. By this mode of proceeding, your boilings will regularly take place of each other', which will expedite the bufinefs, by preventing lofs of time. Be particu¬ larly careful in the courfe of each mafhing, that it be thoroughly flirred from the bottom, and elpecially round the muck bafket; for, being well fhaken, it prevents a ftagnation of the whole body of the mafia ; and were this laft procefs omitted, it would certainly fox your beer, and give it an exceeding bad tafte. In preparing for boiling, be particularly careful to put the hops in with the firft wort, or it will char in a few minutes. As foon as the copper be full enough, a good fire fhould be made under it; but be careful, in filling it, to leave room enough for boiling. Quick boiling is one of the moft neceffary things to be oblerv- ed; though in this particular there are variety of opi¬ nions. However, there is perhaps but one good me¬ thod, and that is, quick boiling. Great caution fhould be obferved, when it begins to lwell in waves in the'cop- per : if you have no afliftant, be particularly attentive to its motions; and being provided with an iron rod of a proper length, crooked at one end, and jagged at the other, then with the crook you are enabled to open the furnace, or copper door, and with the other end pufh in the damper, without ftirring from your ftation; but on the approach of the firft fwell, you will have fufficient time to proportionate your fire, as care fhould be taken that it be not too predominant. When the boil be pro¬ perly got under, you may then add a fire that will D d 4 boil 4 oS MALT LI Q^U O R S. boil brifkly, and there may be a variation of a few mi¬ nutes. With refpedt to the time it fliould boil, experienced brewers proceed in this manner. They take a clean copper bowl-difh, to dip out fome of the liquor, and when they difcover a working, and the hops finking, they conclude it to be fufficiently boiled. This is fome- times completed in thirty-five or forty minutes ; but this rule is often extended five or ten minutes, according to the different qualities of malt. Long and flow boiling is very pernicious, as well as wafting the liquor ; for the flower it boils, the lower it drops, and flnges to your copper; whereas quick boiling has a contrary effedt. Effence of malt is extracted by length of boiling, by which you can make it to the thicknefs of honey or treacle, fo that a fmall quantity will weigh pounds. In fome parts of Yorkftrire, they value their liquor for its great ftrength, by its affefting the brain for two or three days after intoxication. -This is the effect of long boil¬ ing ; for in that cotlnty, they boil liquor for three hours; and what is ftill worfe, when it finks in the copper, from the wafte in boiling, they every now and then add a little frefh wort, which, without doubt, muft tend to feveral ftagnations, productive of feveral impurities. Your liquor being properly boiled, be fure to traverfe a fmall quantity quite over all the coolers, fo as to get a proper quantity cold immediately to fet to work ; but if the airinefs of your brewhoufe is not fufficient to ex¬ pedite a quantity foon, you muft traverfe a lecond quan¬ tity over the coolers,- and then let it into fhallow tubs. 3 ’ut thefe into any paffage where there is a thorough draft of air, but where no rain or other wet can get communication to it. Then let off the quantity of two baring tubfulls from the firft over the fecond and third coolers, which may be foon got cold, to be ready for a fpeedy working, and then the remaining part that is in your copper may be quite let out into the firft cooler. In the mean time, mend the fire, and alfo attend to the hops, to make a clear paffage through the ftrainer. Hav¬ ing proceeded thus far, as foon as the liquor be done run- nin g> MALT LI QJJ O R S. 409 ning, return to your bufmefs of pumping; but be fure to remember, that, when you have got four or fivepails- ful, you then return all the hops into the copper for the ale. By this time, the fmall quantity of liquor traverfed over your coolers being fufficiently cooled, you mud now proceed to fet your liquor to work. Take four quarts of barm, and divide half of it into fmall veffels, fuch as clean bowls, bafons, or mugs, adding thereto an equal quantity of wort, which fhould be aim oft cold. As foon as it ferments to the top of the vefiel, put it into two pails, and when that works to the top, put one into a baring tub, and the other into another. When yon have half a baring tub full together, you may put the like quantity to each of them, and then cover them over, until it comes to a fine cauliflower head. This may be perfectly completed in three hours, and then put thofe two quantities into the working guile. You may now add as much wort as you have got ready 3 for you can¬ not work it too cold in open weather. If you brew in cold frofty weather, keep the brew- houfe warm ; but never add hot wort to keep the liquor to a blood heat, that being a bad maxim; for hot wort put to cold, as well as cold to hot, is fo intemperate in its nature, that it ftagnates the proper operation of the barm. You mult be careful that your barm be not from foxed beer, that is, beer heated by ill management in its work¬ ing ; for in that cafe it is likely to carry with it the con¬ tagion. If your barm be flat, and you cannot procure that which is new, the method of recovering its work¬ ing is by putting to it a pint of warm fweet wort, of your firft letting oft, the heat to be of half the degree of milk warm. Then give your mug that contains it a fhake, and it will foon gather ftrength and be fit for ufe. I fhall conclude this matter with obferving, that half a pound of good hops is fufficient for a bufhel of malt for ftrong beer, to keep for four years, tv/eive bufhels to the hogfhead. We 4io MALT LI QJJ O R S. We come now to the laft and moft fimple operation in the bufinefs of brewing, which is the tunning. The general methods of doing this are. either by having it carried down on men's fhoulders, or conveying it into the cellar' by the means of leathern pipes commonly uled for that purpofe. Your calks being perfectly clean, fvveet, and dry, and fet on the Hand ready to receive the liquor, firft fkim off the top barm, then proceed to fill your calks quite full, and immediately bung and peg them clofe. Bore a hole with a tap-borer near the furnmit of the Have, at the fame diftance from the top as the lower tap-hole is from the bottom, for working through that upper hole, which is a lean and more effectual method than work¬ ing it over the calk; for, by the above method, being fo clofely confined, it foon lets itfelf into a convulfive motion of working, and forces itfelf fine, provided you attend to the filling of your calks five or fix times a day; for by too long an omiffion it begins to fettle, and after¬ wards being difturbed, it raifes- a fharp fermentation, which produces an incefiant working of a fpurious froth, that may continue for fome weeks, and after all give your beer a crankifh tafte, which proper attention might have prevented. Having thus gone through the principal matters in the praftical part of brewing, we fhail now proceed to inftrudt the houfekeeper in the management of malt li¬ quors, the proper time for brewing, and lhall make fome obfervations on the different qualities of water, malt, and hops. The month of March is generally confidered as one of the principal feafons for brewing malt liquor for long keeping; and the reafon is, becaufe the air at that time of the year is temperate, and contributes to the good working or fermentation of the liquor, which principally promotes its prefervation and good keeping. Very cold, as well as very hot weather, prevents the free fermenta¬ tion or working of liquors ; fo that, if you brew in very cold weather, unlefs you ufe fome means to warm the cellar while new drink be working, it will never clear itfelf I' MALT LI QJU O R S. 411 itfelf in the manner you would wifh ; and the fame mif- fortune will arife, if, in very hot weather, the cellar be not put into a temperate Hate. The confequence of all which will be, that luch drink will be muddy and four, perhaps beyond all recovery. Such misfortunes often happen, even in the proper feafon for brewing, and that owing to the badnefs of a cellar; for when they be dug in fpringy grounds, or are fubjedt to damps in the win¬ ter, the liquor will chill, and grow flat and dead. Where cellars are of this nature, it will be advifeable to make your brewings in March, rather than in October; for you may keep fuch cellars temperate in fummer, but can¬ not warm them in winter. Thus your beer brewed in March will have due time to fettle and adjufl: itfelf, be¬ fore the cold can materially injure it. It is advifeable to build your cellars for keeping li¬ quor after fuch a manner, that no external air can get into them ; for the variation of the air abroad, were there free admiflion of it into the cellars, would caufe as many alterations in the liquor, and would thereby keep them in fo unfettled a Hate, as to render them unfit for drinking. Some people, curious in thefe matters, have double doors to their cellars, with a view that none of the external air may find a way into them, and are amply repaid for their care and expence by the goodnefs of their liquor. The intent of the double door is, to keep one fhut while the other be open, that the external air may be excluded. Such cellars, if they lie dry, as they ought to do, are faid to be cold in fummer, and warm in winter; though, in reality, they are conftantly the lame in point of temperature. They feem, indeed, cold in hot weather, but that is only becaufe we go into them from a hotter air abroad ; and the fame mode of reafoning will hold good, with refpedt to their appear¬ ing warmer in winter. Hence it is evident, that they, are only cold or warm comparatively, as the air we come out of is colder or warmer. This fhould be the pecu¬ liar property of a cellar, if we expect to have good li¬ quor out of it. As for the brewing part itfelf, we have already confldered that matter; what we fhall therefore further 412 M ALT LJ Q^U O R S. further principally touch upon, befides fpeaking of cel¬ laring, will relate to water,, malt, hops, and the proper keeping of liquors. To fpeak in general, the beft water is river-water, fuch as is foft, and has partaken of the air and fun; for this eafily infinuates itfelf into the malt, and extradls its virtues. On the contrary, hard waters aftringe and bind the pores of the malt, fo that its virtue is not freely com¬ municated to the liquor. It is a rule with fome, that all water that will mix with foap is fit for brewing, and they will by no means allow of any other ; and it has been more than once experienced, that where the fame quan¬ tity of malt has been ufed to a barrel of river-water, as to a barrel of fpring-water, the river-water brewing has excelled the other in ftrength above five degrees in twelve months. It mull be obferved likewife, that the malt was not only the fame in quantity for one barrel as for the other, but was the fame in quality, having been all meafured from the fame heap. The hops were alfo the fame, both in quality and quantity, and the time of boil¬ ing equal in each. They were worked in the fame man¬ ner, and tunned and kept in the fame cellar. Here it was evident, that the only difference was in the water, and yet one barrel was worth two of the other. One thing has long puzzled the ableft brewers, and that is, when feveral gentlemen in the fame town have employed the fame brewer, have had the fame malt, the fame hops, and the fame water, and brewed in the fame month, and broached their drink at the fame time, yet one has had beer extremely fine, ftrong, and well tailed, while the others have had hardly any worth drinking. There may be three reafons for this difference: One might be the difference of weather, which might hap¬ pen at the feveral brewings in this month, and make an alteration in the working of the liquors. Secondly, that the yell or barm might be of different forts, or in dif¬ ferent Hates, wherewith thefe liquors were worked ; and, thirdly, the cellars were not equally good, The good- nefs of fuch drink as is brewed for keeping, in a great mea-> MALT LI QJJ O R S. 413 meafure, depends on the goodnefs of the cellar in which it is kept. The Dorchefter beer, which is fo much admired, is, for the mod part, brewed of chalky water, which is al- moft every where, in that county; and as the foil is ge¬ nerally chalk, the cellars, being dug in that dry foil, contribute to the good keeping of their drink, it being of a clofe texture, and of a drying quality, fo as to dif- fipate damps; for damp cellars, we find by experience, are injurious to the keeping of liquors, as well as de- ftrudtive to the calks. A conftant temperate air digefts and foftens malt liquors, fo that they tafte quite fmooth on the palate; but in cellars which are unequal, by let¬ ting in heats and colds, the liquor is fubjedt to grow ftale and fiiarp. For this reafon it is, that liquor brewed for long voyages at fea, fhould be perfectly ripe and fine be¬ fore it be exported; for when it has had fufficient time to digeft in the calk, and is racked from the bottom or lee, it will bear carriage without injury. It h as been obferved, that in proportion to the quan¬ tity of liquor which is inclofed in one calk, fo will it be a longer or fhorter time in ripening. A vefFel, contain¬ ing two hoglheads of beer, will require twice as much time to perfect itfelf as one of a hogfhead; and it is found by experience, that no velfel fhould be ufed for ftrong beer, which is intended to be kept, lefs than a hogfhead, as one of that quantity, if it be fit to draw in a year, has body enough to fupport it two, three, or four years, if it have llrength of malt and hops in it, as the Dorchef¬ ter beer has. One great piece of ceconomy is the good manage¬ ment of fmall beer; for if that be not good, the drinkers of it will be feeble in fumtmer time, incapable of ftrong work, and will be very fubjedt to diftempers. Befides, when the beer be not good, a great deal will be thrown away. The ufe of drink, as well as meat, is to nourifh the body; and the more labour there is upon any one, the more fubftantial fhould be the diet. In harveft time, the ill effedts of bad beer among the workmen are vifi- ble; and in great families, where that article has not been 414 MALT LI QJJ O R S. been attended to, the apothecaries bills have amounted to twice as much as the malt would have come to, that would have kept the fervants in ftrength and good health. Befides, good wholefome drink is feldom thrown away by fervants ; and thus the fparing of a little malt ends in the lofs of the mailer. Where there is good cellar¬ ing, therefore, it is advifeable to brew a ftock of fmall beer in March or October, or in both months, to be kept in hogfheads, if poffible. The beer brewed in March iliould not be tapped till Odlober, nor that brewed in Oblober, till the March following; having this regard to the quantity, that a family, of the fame number of working perfons, will drink a third more in fummer than in winter. If water happen to be of a hard nature, it may be foftened by expofmg it to the air and fun, and putting into it fome pieces of foft chalk to infufe; or, when the water be fet on to boil, in order to be poured on the malt, put into it a quantity of bran, which will help a little to loften it. One thing more is to be mentioned, refpedting the prefervation of flrong beer, and that is, when once the veffel be broached, regard ought to be had to the time in which it will be expended; for, if there happen to be a quick draught for it, then it will laft good to the very bottom ; but, if there be likely to be but a flow draught, then do not draw off quite half before you bottle it, otherwife your beer will grow flat, dead, or four. This is obferved very much among the curious. We fhall now mention two or three particulars rela¬ tive to malt, which may help thofe who are unacquainted with brewing. In the firfl place, the general diflindlion between one malt and another is, only that the one is high, and the other low dried. That which we call high- dried will, when brewed, produce a liquor of a deep- brown colour; and the other, which is the low-dried, will produce a liquor of a pale colour. The firfl is dried in fuch a manner, as may be faid rather to be fcorched than dried, and is far lefs wholefome than the pale malr. It has alfo been experienced, that brown malt, although MALT LI QJJ O R S. 415 it be well brewed, will fooner turn {harp than the pale malt, if that be fairly brewed. A gentleman of good experience in the brewery fays, that the brown malt makes the beft drink when it is brewed with a coarfe river water, fuck as that of the Thames about London; and that likewife, being brew¬ ed with fuch water, it makes'very good ale; but that it will not keep above fix months without turning ftale, and a little fharp, even though he allows fourteen bufhels to the hogfhead. He adds, that he has tried the high- dried malt to brew beer with for keeping, and hopped it accordingly, and yet he could never brew it fo as to drink foft and mellow, like that brewed with pale malt. There is an acid quality in the high-dried malt, which occafions that diftemper commonly called the heart-bum in thofe that drink of the ale or beer made of it. What we have here faid of malt is meant that made of barley ; for wheat-malt, pea-malt, or thofe mixed with barley-malt, though they produce a high-coloured liquor, will keep many'years, and drink foft and fmooth, yet they have the mum flavour. \ J Some people, who brew with high-dried barley-malt, put a bag, containing about three pints of wheat, into every hogfhead of liquor, and that has fined it, and made it drink mellow. Others have put about three pints of wheat-malt into a hogfhead, which has produced the fame effebt. But all malt liquors, however well they may be brewed, may be fpoiled by bad cellaring, and be now and then fubject to ferment in the calk, and confequently turn thick and four. The beft way to help this, and bring the liquor to itfelf, is to open the burrg of the calk for two or three days ; and, if that does not ftop the fermentation, then put in about two or three pounds of oyfter-fhells, waflied, dried well in an oven, and then beaten to fine powder. Stir it a little, and it will prefently fettle the liquor, make it fine, and take oft the fharp tafte. As foon as that be done, draw it " oft into another veftel, and put a fmall bag of wheat or wheat-malt into it, as before directed, or in proportion to the flze of the veftel. Sometimes fuch fermentations will 1 4 i6 M A L T L 1 Q^U O R S. will happen in liquor by change of weather, if it be in a bad cellar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itlelf, and grow mellow. High-dried malt fhould not be ufed in brewing, till it has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it then yields much ftronger drink than the fame quantity of malt juft ground ; but, if you defign to keep malt ground fome time before you ufe it, you mult take care to keep it very dry, and the air at that time muft alfo be dry. As for pale malt, which has not partaken fo much of the fire, it muft not remain ground above a week before you ufe it. As for hops, the neweft are much the beft, though they will remain very good two years; but after that they begin to decay and lofe their flavour, unlefs great quantities are kept together, in which cafe they will keep much longer good than in fmall quantities. Thefe, for their better prefervation, fhould be kept in a very dry place; though the dealers in them rather choofe fuch places as are moderately between moift and dry, that they may not lofe any of their weight. Notice muft here be taken of a method which has been ufed to ftale and decayed hops, to make them recover their bitter- nefs; and this is, to unbag them, and fprinkle them ■with aloes and water, which, when it has proved a bad hop year, has fpoiled great quantities of malt liquor about London; for, even where the water, the malt, the brewer, and the cellars, be each good, a bad hop will fpoil all. Hence it is evident, that every one of thefe particulars fhould be well chofen before the brew¬ ing be fet about, or elfe you muft expedft but a bad ac¬ count of your labour. So likewife the yeft or barm w'hich you work your liquor with, muft be well conft- dered, or a good brewing may be fpoiled by that alone. Remember always to be provided with every material before you begin your brewing, as the wort will not wait for any thing. It is a practice in fome places remote from towns, to dip whifks into yeft, then beat it well, and fo hang up the whifks with the yeft in them to dry ; aud if there be MALT LI QJJ O R S. 417 be no brewing till two months afterwards, the beating and (birring one cf thefe new whifks in new'wort will raife a working or a fermentation in it. It is a rule, that all liquor fhould be worked well in the tun, or keel, be¬ fore it be put into the veffel, otherwife it will not eafily grow' fine. Some follow the rule of beating down the yefl: pretty often while it is in the tun, and keep it there working for two or three days, obferving to put it into the veffel juft when the yeft begins to fail. This liquor is commonly very -fine, whereas that which is put into the veffel quickly after it is brewed, will not be fine in many months. With refpeht to the feafon for brewing liquor to keep, it is to be obferved, that if the cellars be fubjecl to the heat of the fun, or warm fummer air, it will be beft to brew in October, that the liquor may have time to digeft before the warm feafon comes on; and if cellars be in¬ clinable to damps, and to receive water, the belt time will be to brew in March. Some experienced brewers always choofe to brew 7 with the pale malt in March, and the brown in October ; for they fuppofe, that the pale malt, being made with a lefs degree of fire than the other, wants the fummer fun to ripen it; and fo, on the contrary, the brown, having had a larger fhare of the fire to dry it, is more capable of defending itfelf againft the cold of the winter feafon. But thefe are merely matters of opinion. However careful you may have been in attending to all the preceeding particulars, yet, if the calks be not in good order, (till the brewing may be fpoiled. New calks are apt to give liquor a bad taffe, if they be not well fcalded and feafoned feveral days fucceffively before they be ufed. As to old calks, if they ftand any time out of ufe, they are apt to grow mufty. There now remains little more to be faid concerning the management of malt liquors, but that of bottling it. The bottles muft firfl be well cleaned and dried} for wet bottles will make the liquor turn mouldy or mothery, as they call it ; and by wet bottles a great deal of good beer has been fpoiled. Though the bottles be E e clean 418 MALT LI Q^U O R S. clean and dry, yet, if the corks be not new and found, the liquor will be (till liable to be damaged ; for, if the air can get into the bottles, the liquor v/ill grow flat, and will never rife. Many who flattered themfelves that they knew how to be having, by ufing old corks on this occafion, have fpoiled as much liquor as flood them in four or five pounds, only for want of laying out three or four fhillings. If bottles be corked as they fhould be, it will be difficult to pull out the cork without a fcrew ; and to be fure to draw the cork without break* ing, the fcrew ought to go through the cork, and then the air mufl neceffarily find a paffage where the fcrew has paffed, and therefore the cork mufl be good for no¬ thing. If a cork has once been in a bottle, though it has not been drawn with a fcrew, yet that cork will turn mu fly as loon as it be expofed to the air, and will com¬ municate its ill flavour to the bottle in which it be next put, and fpoil the liquor that way. In the choice of corks, take thofe that are foft and clear from fpecks. You may alfo obferve, in the bottling of liquor, that the top and middle of the hogfhead are the flrongeft, and will fooner rife in the bottles than the bottom. When once you begin to bottle a veflel of any liquor, be fure not to leave it till all be completed, otherwife it will have different tafles. If you find that a veflel of liquor begins to grow flat whiift it is in common draught, bottle it, and into every bottle put a piece of loaf fugar of about the fize of a walnut, which will make it rife and come to itfelf: and, to forward its ripening, you may fet fome bottles in hay in a warm place ; but flraw will not affifl its ripening. Where there are not good cellars, holes have been funk in the ground, and large oil jars put into them, and the earth filled clofe about the fides. One of thefe jars may hold about a dozen quart bottles, and will keep the liquor very well; but the tops of die jars mufl be kept clofe covered up. In winter time, when the wea¬ ther is frofly, fhut up all the lights or windows of your cellars, and cover them clofe with horfe dung, or horfe i ' litter j MALT LI Q^U ORS. 419 litter; but it is much better to have no lights or win¬ dows at all to any cellar, for the reafons before given. Should you have an opportunity of brewing a good flock of fmall beer in March and Odtober, fome of it may be bottled at fix months end, putting into every bottle a lump of loaf fugar. This will be a very re- frelhing drink in the fummer. Or, if ybu happen to brew in fummer, and are defirous of brifk fmall beer, as foon as it be done working, bottle it as above directed. E e 2 APPEN- [ 42 ° ] APPENDIX. SECTION I. Confederations on Culinary Poifcns. HOUGH we have already, in different parts of JL this work, occafionally reminded the houfe-keeper and cook of the fatal confequences attending coppers and faucepans not being properly tinned, yet we fhall here enter on a particular enquiry into the nature and property of culinary poifons, for the information and fa- tisfadion of thole who may wifh to have a more perfed knowledge of fuch important matters. By the ufe of copper veffels for dreffing our food, we are daily expofed to the danger of poifon ; and even the very air of a kitchen, abounding with oleaginous and faline particles, difpofes thofe vellels to diffolution before they be ufed. Copper, when handled, yields an offen- five fmell; and, if touched with the tongue, has a (harp pungent take, and even excites a naulea. Verdigrife is nothing but a folution of this metal by vegetable acids; and it is well known, that a very fmall quantity of this folution will produce cholics, vomitings, intolerable third, univerfal convulfions, and other dangerous lymp- toms. If thefe effeds, and the prodigious divifibility of this metal be confidered, there can be no doubt of its being a violent and fubtle poifon. Water, by Hand¬ ing forme time in a copper vefiel, becomes impregnated with verdigrife, as may be demonftrated by throwing into it a fmall quantity of any volatile alkali, which will immediately tinge it with a paler or deeper blue, in pro¬ portion to the rufl contained in the water. Vinegar, 5 apple- A P P E N D I X: 421 apple-fauce, greens, oil, greafe, butter, and aim oft ever/ other kind of food, will extraCf the verdigrile in a great degree. Some people imagine, that the ill effeCb of copper are prevented by its being tinned, which, indeed, is the only preventative in that cafe - 3 but the tin, which adheres to the copper, is fo extremely thin, that it is foon penetrated by the verdigrile, which infinuates itfelf through the pores of that metal, and appears green upon the furface. Verdigrife is one of the molt violent poifons in na¬ ture ; and yet, rather than quit an old cuftom, the greater part of mankind are content to {wallow fome of this poifon every day. Our food receives its quantity of poifon in the kitchen, by the ufe of copper pans and difhes ; the brewer mingles poifon in our beer, by boil¬ ing it in a copper; fait is diftributed to the people from copper fcales, covered with verdigrife ; our pickles, are rendered green by an infufion of copper ; the paftry-cook bakes our tarts in copper patty-pans; but confections and fyrups have greater powers of deftruCiion, as they are fet over a fire in copper vdTels which have not been tinned, 'and the verdigrife is plentifully extracted by the acidity of the compofition. After all, though we do not fwallow death in a fingle dole, yet it is certain, that a quantity of poifon, however fmall, which is repeated with every meal, mult produce more fatal effeCts than is generally believed. Bell-metal kettles are frequently ufed in boiling cu¬ cumbers for pickling, in order to make them green ; but this is a pra&ice as abfurd as it is dangerous. If the cucumbers acquire any additional greennefs by the ufe of thefe kettles, they can only derive it from the copper, of which they are made; and this very reafon ought to be fufficient to overturn fo dangerous a praClice.' According to fome writers, bell-metal is a compofi¬ tion of tin and copper, or pewter and copper, in the proportion of twenty pounds of pewter, or twenty-three pounds of tin, to one hundred weight of copper. Ac¬ cording to others, this metal is made in the proportion of one thoufand pounds of copper to two or three hun- Ee 3 dred 422 APPENDIX. dred pounds of tin, and one hundred and fifty pounds of brafs. Spoons, and other kitchen utenfils, are fre¬ quently made of a mixed metal, called alchemy, or, as it is vulgarly pronounced, ochimy. The ruft of this metal, as well as that of the former, is highly pernicious. The author of a trad entitled. Serious Refledions at¬ tending the Ufe of Copper Veffels, publifhed in Lon¬ don in 1755, afferts, that the great frequency of palfies, apoplexies, madnefs, and all the frightful train of ner¬ vous diforders, which fuddeniy attack us, without our being able to account for the caufe, or which gradually weaken our vital faculties, are the pernicious tffeds of this poifonous matter, taken into the body infenfibly with our viduals, and thereby intermixed with our blood and juices. However this may be, certain it is, that there have been innumerable inftances of the pernicious confcquences of eating food dreffed in copper veffels not fufficiently cleaned from this ruft. On this account, the fenate of Sweden, about the year 1753, prohibited copper vefiels, and ordered that no veffels, except fuch as were made of iron, fhould be ufed in their fleets and armies. But if copper veffels muft be ftill continued, every cook and good houfewife Ihould be particularly careful in keeping them clean and well tinned, and fhould fuffer nothing to remain in them longer than is abfolutely neceffary for the pur- pofes of cookery. . ’ Lead is a metal eafily corroded, efpecially by the warm fleams of acids, fuch as vinegar, cider, lemon- juice, Rhenifh w'ine, &c. and this folution, or fait of lead, is a flow and iniidious, though certain poifon. The glazing of all our common brown pottery ware is either lead or lead ore ; if black, it is a lead ore, with a fmall proportion of manganefe, which is a fpecies of iron ore ; if yellow, the glazing is lead ore,- and appears yellowifh by having fome pipe or white clay under it. The co¬ lour of the common pottery ware is red, as the veffels are made of the fame clay as common bricks. Thefe veffels are fo porous, that they are penetrated by all falts, acid or alkaline, and are unfit for retaining any faline- 0 0 A P P E N D I X. 423 fubftances. They are improper, though too often ufed, for preferving four fruits or pickles. The glazing of fuch veffels is corroded by the vinegar; for, upon eva¬ porating the liquor, a quantity of the fait of lead will be found at the bottom. A fure way of judging whether the vinegar, or other acids, have diffolved part of the glazing, is by their becoming vapid, or lofing their fbarp- nefs, and acquiring a fweetifh tafte by (landing in them for fome time ; in which cafe the contents mult be thrown away as pernicious. The fubftance of the pottery ware commonly called Delft, the beft being made at Delft in Holland, is a whitifh clay when baked, and foft, as not having endured a great heat in baking. The glazing is a compofition of calcined lead, calcined tin, fand, fome coarfe alkaline fait, and fandiver, which being run into a white glafs, the white colour being owing to the tin, is afterwards ground in a mill, then mixed with water, and the veffels., after being baked in the furnace, are dipped into it, and put again into the furnace; by which means, with a (mail degree of heat, the white glafs runs upon the vef¬ fels. This glazing is exceedingly foft, and eafily cracks. What effects acids will have upon it, the writer of thefe Confiderations cannot fay ; but they feem to be impro¬ per for infpiffating the juice of lemons, oranges, or any other acid fruits. The mod proper veffels for thefe purpofes are porce¬ lain or China ware, the fubftances of them being of fo clofe a texture, that no faline or other liquor can pe¬ netrate them. The glazing, which is likewife made of the fubftance of the china, is fo firm and clofe, that no fait or faline fubftance can have the leaft eftedt upon it. It muft, however, be obferved, that this remark is ap¬ plicable only to the porcelain made in China ; for fome fpecies of the European manufadtory are certainly glazed with a fine glafs of lead, &c. The ftone ware, commonly called Staffordfhire ware, is the next to china. The fubftance of thefe veffels is a compofition of black flint, and a ftrong clay, that bakes white. Their outfides are glazed, by throwing E e 4 into 4-4 APPENDIX. into the furnace, when well heated, common or fea fait decrepitated, the fleam or acid of which, flying up among the vdfels, vitrifies the outfide of them, and gives them the glazing. 1 his ftone ware does not appear to be in¬ jured or afiedted by any kind of falts, either acid or al¬ kaline, or by any liquors, hot or cold. Theft are there¬ fore extremely proper for all common ufes; but they re¬ quire a careful management, as they are more apt to crack with any fudden heat, than china. Having thus c-onfidered the nature of copper and earthen utenfils for the ufe of the kitchen, we fhall pro¬ ceed to make fome few remarks on the poifonous qua¬ lities of rnufhrooms, hemlock, and laurel, the laft of which has lately fo much engroffed the converfation of ail ranks of people. Mujhrooms have been long ufed in fauces, in catchup, and other forms of cookery; they were highly efteemed by the Romans, as they are at prefent by the French, Italians, and other nations. Pliny exclaims againfl the luxury of his countrymen in this article, wonders what extraordinary pleafure there can be in eating fuch dan¬ gerous food. The ancient writers on the Materia Me- dica feem to agree, that rnufhrooms are in general un- wholefome; and the moderns, Lemery, Allen, Geof- froy, Boerhaave, Linnaeus, and others, concur in the fame opinion. There are numerous inftances on record of their fatal effedls, and almoft all authors agree, that they are fraught with poifon. The common efculent kinds, if eaten too freely, fre¬ quently bring on heart-burns, fickneffes, vomitings, di¬ arrhoeas, dyfenteries, and other dangerous fymptoms. It is therefore to be wifhed, that they were banifhed from the table ; but, if the palate muft be indulged in thefe treacherous gratifications, or, as Seneca calls them, this voluptuous poifon, it is neceffary that thofe, who are employed in colledting them, fhould be extremely cau¬ tious, left they fhould colled! fuch as are abfolutely per¬ nicious ; which, confidering to whofe care this is gene¬ rally committed, may, and undoubtedly frequently has happened, The eatable rnufhrooms at firft appear of a roundifh APPENDIX. 425 roundilh form, like a button 5 the upper part and the {talk are very thin ; the under part is of a livid fkih co¬ lour ; but the flefhy part, when broken, is very white. When thefe are fuffered to remain undifcurbed, they will grow to a large fize, and expand themfelves almofi to a fiatnefs, and the red part underneath will change to a dark colour. Small Hemlock , though it feems not to be of fo viru¬ lent a nature as the larger hemlock, yet Boerhaave places it among the vegetable poifons, in his Inflitutesj and in his Hiflory of Plants, he produces an inflance of its pernicious effedts. It is therefore neceffary to guard againfl it, in colledting herbs for fallads and other pur- pofes. Attend therefore to the following defcription : The firft leaves are divided into numerous fmall parts, which are of a pale green, oval, pointed, and deeply in¬ dented. The ftalk is (lender, upright, round, flriated, and about a yard high. The flowers are white, grow¬ ing at the tops of the branches in little umbels. It is an annual plant, common in orchards and kitchen gar¬ dens, and flowers in June and July. This plant has been often miflaken for parfley, and from thence it has received the name of fool’s parfley. The water diflilled from the leaves of the common lau¬ rel , has been frequently mixed with brandy, and other fpirituous liquors, in order to give them the flavour of ratafia; and the leaves are often tiled in cookery, to com¬ municate the fame kind of tafte to creams, cuflards, puddings, and fome forts of fweetmeats. But, in the year 1728, an account of two women dying fuddenly in Dublin, after drinking fome of the common diflilled laurel-water, gave rife to feveral experiments, made upon dogs, with the diflilled water, and with the infufion of the leaves of the common laurel, communicated by Dr. Madden, Phyfician at Dublin, to the Royal Society in ' London : and afterwards repeated, in the year 1731, and confirmed by Dr. Mortimer, by which it appeared, that both the-water and the infufion brought on convulfions, palfy, and death. The APPENDIX. 426 The laurel of the ancients, or the bay , is on the con¬ trary, of a falutary nature, and of ufe in feveral difor- ders; but the common laurel is a plant of a very de- ftructive kind, and, taken in a large quantity, is a mod formidable poifon. However, if it be adminidered with proper caution, and in fmall proportion, the leaves of the plant are generally thought to be innocent ; and therefore, for kitchen purpofes, as the flavouring of cuftards, and fuch like, the ufe, in guarded and com¬ mon moderation, may be continued in perfect fafety. The bitter parts of the plants, in which all the noxious properties are fuppofed to refide, are determined to be the Erne in quality, and not fenffbly different in degree, from the bitter almond, or from the kernels of any of the (toned fruits. Linnaeus fays, that in Holland, an infufion of this kind of laurel is ufed in the practice of the healing art. Miller alfo fays, that laurel-leaves are perfectly innocent. A nice attention, however, is cer¬ tainly neceffary in the ufe of them. SECTION II. Covfiderations on the Adulteration of Bread and Flour. T N the adulteration of flour, mealmen and bakers JL have been known to ufe bean-meal, chalk, whiting, flacked lime, alum, and even allies of bones. The firft, bean-flour, is perfectly innocent, and affords a nourifh- ment equal to that of wheat ; but there is a.roughnefs in bean-flour, and its colour is dufky. To remove thefe defedts, chalk is added to whiten it; alum, to give the whole compound that confidence, which is neceffary to make it knead well in the dough; and jalap, to take off the adringency. Some people may fuppofe, that thefe APPENDIX. 427 thefe horrid iniquities are only imaginary, or at leaf! exaggerated, and that fuch mixtures mull be difcover- able even by the mod ordinary tafte; but, as fome adulterations of this nature have certainly been prac- tifed, the following experiments may ferve to gratify curiofity, or difcover frauds, where any fuch have been commixed. To detect the adulteration of flour with whiting or chalk, mix it with fome juice of lemon or good vine¬ gar. If the flour be pure, they will remain together at reft; but, if there be a mixture of whiting or chalk, a fermentation, like the working of yeft, will enfue. The adulterated meal is whiter and heavier than the good: the quantity that an ordinary tea-difh will con¬ tain, has been found to weigh more than the fame quantity of genuine flour, by four drachms and nine¬ teen grains Troy. The regular method of detecting thefe frauds in bread is thus: Cut the crumb of a loaf into very thin dices; break them, but not into very {mail pieces, and put them into a glafs cucurbite, with a large quantity of water. Set this, without fhaking, in a fand furnace, and let it frand, with a moderate warmth, twenty-four hours. The crumb of the bread will, in this time, foften in all its parts, and the ingredients will feparate from it. The alum will diffolve in the water, and may be extracted from it in the ufual way. The jalap, if any have been ufed, will fwim upon the top in a coarfe film ; and the other ingredients, being heavy, will fink to the bottom. This is the beft and moil: regular me¬ thod of finding the deceit; but as cucurbites and find furnaces are not at hand in private families, the follow¬ ing is a more familiar method : Slice the crumb of a * loaf as before directed, and put it, with a great deal of water, into a large earthen pipkin. Set this over a gentle fire, and keep it a long time moderately hot. Then pour off the pap, and the bpne-afhes, or other ingredients, will be found at the bottom. Having fpoken thus much of the adulteration of wheat and bread, and as the bufinefs of baking often falls ' APPENDIX. 428. falls under the infpedtion of the houfekeeper, particu¬ larly in country refidenCes, we fhall here give inftruc- tions for that purpofe. To make kFhite Bread in the London Manner. PUT a bufhel of the fined: well-dreffed flour in at one end of the kneading-trough. Then take a gallon of water, which Bakers call liquor, and fome yeft. Stir it into the liquor till it looks of a good brown colour, and begins to curdle. Strain and mix it with your flour till it be about the thicknefs of a feed-cake, then cover It with the lid of the trough, and let it ftand three hours. As foon as you fee it begin to fall, take a gal¬ lon more liquor, weigh three quarters of a pound of fait, and with your hand mix it well with the water. Strain it, and with this liquor make your dough of a moderate thicknefs, fit to make up into loaves. Then cover it again with the lid, and let it ftand three hours more. In the mean time put your wood into the oven, which will require two hours heating. Then clear the oven, and begin to make your bread ; put it in, clofe up the oven, and three hours will bake it. When once the bread be put in, you muft not open the oven till the bread be baked; and take care in fummer that your water be milk warm, and in winter as hot as your finger will bear. All flour does not require the fame quantity of water; but that experience will teach you in two op three times making. * To make Leaven Bread. BREAD made without barm, muft be by the afiift- ance of leaven. Take a lump of dough, about two pounds of your laft making, which has been railed by barm. Keep it by you in a wooden veflfel, cover it well with flour, and this will be your leaven. The night before you intend to bake, put your leaven to a peck of flour, and work them well together with warm water. Let it lie in a dry wooden vefiel, well covered with a linen cloth and a blanket, and keep it in a warm place. This dough, kept warm, will rife again next morning. APPENDIX. 4*9 morning, and will be fufficient to mix with two or three bufhels of flour, being mixed up with warm water and a little fait. When it be well worked up, and thoroughly mixed with the flour, let it be well covered with the linen and blanket, until you find it begin to rife. Then knead it w ? ell, and work it up into bricks or loaves, making the loaves broad, and not fo thick and high as is frequently done, by which means the bread will be better baked. Always keep by you two or more pounds of the dough of your laft baking well covered with flour, to make leaven to ferve from one baking day to another; and the more leaven you put to the flour, the lighter the bread will be. The freffier the leaven, the lefs four will be the bread. To make French Bread . PUT a pint of milk into three quarts of water; in winter, let it be fcalding hot, but only^ little more than milk-warm in fummer. Having put in fait fufficient to your tafte, take a pint and a half of good ale yeft; but take care that it be not bitter. Lay it in a gallon of water the night before; pour it off the water, ftir your yeft into the milk and water, and then with your hand break in a little more than a quarter of a pound of butter. Work it well till it be diiTolved, then beat up two eggs in a bafon, and ftir them in. Take about a peck and a half of flour, and mix it with your liquor. In winter, your dough muft be made pretty ftiff, but more flack in fummer; fo that you may ufe a little more or lefs flour, according to the ftiffnefs of your dough; but mind to mix it well, and the lefs you work it, the better. You muft ftir your liquor into the flour as you do for pie-cruft; and after your dough be made, cover it with a cloth, and let it lie to rife while the oven be heating. When they have lain in a quick oven about a quarter of an hour, turn them on the other fide, and let them lie about a quarter longer. Then take them out, and chip all your French bread with a knife, which will be better than rafping it, it making it look \ APPENDIX. 43 a look Spongy, and of a fine yellow; whereas die rafpirig takes off that fine colour* and makes it look too finooth. I'd make Oat-Cakes and Muffins . TAKE a pint and a half of good ale yeft from pale malt, if you can get it, becaufe that is whiteft. Let the yeft lie in water all night, the next day pour off the water clear, make two gallons of water juft milk-warm, but not fo hot as to Scald your yeft, and two ounces of fait. Mix your water, yeft, and fait, well together for about a quarter of an hour. Then ftrain it, and with a bufhel of Hertfordshire white flour mix up your dough as light as poffible, and let it lie in your trough an hour to rife. Then roll it with your hand, and pull it into little pieces about as big as a large walnut. Roll them with your hand in the Shape of a ball, lay them on your table, and as faft as you do them, lay a piece of flannel over thejn, and be lure to keep your dough covered with flannel. When you have rolled out all your dough, begin to bake the firft you made, and by that time they will be Spread out in ? right form. Lay them on your iron, and as loon as one fide be Sufficiently coloured, turn them on the other; but take great care that they do not burn, or be too much diScoloured; of which you will be a Sufficient judge from a little experience. If your iron be too hot, as will Sometimes be the caSe, put a brick-bat or two in tire middle of the fire to Slacken the heat. Here it is undoubtedly neceffary to mention in what manner the thing you bake on mull be made. Build a place as if you were going to Set a copper ; but, inftead of a copper, place a piece of iron all over the top, in form juft the Same as the bottom of an iron pot, and make your fire underneath with coal, as in a copper. Obferve, that muffins are made the fame way; with this difference only, that, when you pull them to pieces, you muft roll them in. a good deal of flour, and with a rolling-pin roil them thin. Then cover them with a piece of flannel, and they will rife to a proper thicknefs; but, if you find them too big or too little, you APPENDIX. 43i you muft roll your dough accordingly. Muffins mull not be the iealt difcoloured; and, in order to prepare them for eating, toaft them crifp on both fides. Then pull them open with your hand, and they will be like a honey-comb. Lay in as much butter as you intend to uie, then clap them together again, and fet them by the fire. When you think the butter be melted, turn them, that both fides may be buttered alike ; but do not touch them with a knife, either to fpread or cut them open, as that will make them heavy. You may, how¬ ever, cut them crofs with a knife, when the butter be properly melted. T0 preferve Yeft. • IF you wiffi to preferve a large ftock of yeft, which will keep and be of ufe for feveral months, either to make bread or cakes, you mult follow thefe directions. When you have plenty of yell, and are apprehenfive of a future lcarcity, • take a quantity of it, ftir and work it well with a whifk until it becomes liquid and thin. Then get a large wooden platter, cooler, or tub, clean and dry, and with a foft brufh lay a thin layer of yell on the tub, and turn the mouth downwards, that no dull may fall upon it, but fo that the air may get un¬ der to dry it. When that coat be very dry, then lay on another, and fo on till you have a fufficient quan¬ tity, even two or three inches thick, always taking care that the yell; be very dry in the tub before you lay any more on, and this will keep good for feveral months. When you have occafion to ufe this yell, cut a piece off, and lay it into warm water; then ftir it together, and it will be fit for ufe. If it be for brewing, take a large handful of birch tied together, dip it into the yeft, and hang it up to dry. In this manner you may do as many as you pleale ; but take care no duft comes to it. When your beer be fit to fet to work, throw in one of thefe, and it will make it work as well as if you had frelh yeft. SEC 43 - APPENDIX, SECTION III. Proper Nourijhments for the Sick . r 1 1 HOUGH it is not onr intention to invade the -1- the province of the phyncian or apothecary, that being totally foreign to the plan of a work of this kind, yet it is certainly the indifpertfable duty of every houfe- keeper, to know how properly to provide every kind of kitchen nourifhment for the lick. This will appear th6 more neceffary, when we refledf how many lives have been faved by the adminiftering of nourifhing food, after all the complicated powers of medicine had failed, and the phyfician had formally configned his buffering patient over to the hands of death. 'Mutton Broth. TAKE the fat off a pound of loin of mutton, and put the lean into a quart of water. Skim it well as it bails, and put in a piece of the upper-cruft of bread, with a large blade of mace. Having covered it up dofe, let it boil fiowly for half an hour, and then pour the broth clear off without ftirring it. Seafon it with a little fait, and the meat will be in a proper ftate to be eaten. Some boil turnips with the meat.; but this Ihould not be done, as they ought to be boiled by themfelves. If you intend to make beef or mutton broth, for very weak people, who cannot digeft much nourilbment, take a pound of beef or mutton, or both together, and put to each pound a quart of water. Skin the meat and take off the fat, cut it into little pieces, and let it boil till it come to a quarter of a pint. Then feafon it with a very little fait, fkim off all the fat, and give the fick perfon a fpoonful of it at a time. If the Tick perfon be very weak, even half a fpoonful will be enough at once; while others, who be ftronger, a tea-cupful may APPENDIX. 433 may be given at a time; indeed, the whole is properly to oblerve what quantity the ftomach of the fick perfon will bear. v Beef Broth. TAKE off the fat and fkin of a pound of lean beef, and cut it into pieces. Then put it into a gallon of water, with the under-cruft of a penny-loaf, and a very little fait. Let it boil till it be reduced to two quarts, then (train it off, and it will be very nourifhing. In fome cafes, when the fick perfon be very weak, the phyfician will order beef-tea, which muff be made thus : Take a piece of lean beef, cut it crofs and crofs, and then pour on it fcalding water. Cover it up clofe, and let it ffand till it be cold. Then pour it off as you want it, feafon it moderately, and give it to the lick perfon, having firft warmed it. Another Beef Tea. CUT a pound of lean beef very fine, pour a pint of boiling water over it, and put it on the' fire to raife the fcum. Skim it clean, (train it off, and let it fettle. Pour it clean from the fettling, and then it will be fit for ufe. Veal Broth. TAKE two pounds of fcrag of Veal, and put to it two quarts of water, a large piece of upper-cruft of bread, two blades of mace, and a little parfley tied with a thread. Cover it clofe, let it boil two hours-very (lowly, obferving to (1dm it occafionally, when both meat and broth will be ready. To mince Veal or Chicken. MINCE fome veal or a chicken very fine; but firft take off the fkin. Juft boil as much water as will moiften it, and no more, with a very little fait, and fome nutmeg grated. Then throw a little flour over it, and when the water boils, put in the meat. Keep (baking it about for a minute over the fire; then have ready two or three thin fippets, toafted nice and brown, laid in the plate, and pour the mincemeat over it. F f Pork 434 APPENDIX, Pork Broth. TAKE off the fkin and fat from two pounds of young pork, boi) it in a gallon of water, with a turnip and a very little fait, till it be reduced to two quarts. Then ftrain it off, and let it ftand till it be cold. Take off the fat, leave the fettling at the bottom of the pan, and drink half a pint warmed in the morning faffing, an hour before breakfaft, and at noon, provided the ftomach will bear it. Bo -pull a Chicken. TAKE what quantity you pleafe of cold chicken,, take off the Ikin, and pull the meat into little bits as thick as a quill* Then take the bones, boil them with a little fait till they be good, and ftrain it. Then take a fpoonful of the liquor, a fpoonful of milk, a little bit of butter, as big as a large nutmeg, rolled in flour, a little chopped parfley, as much as will lie upon a fix- pence, and a little fait, if wanted. This will be enough for half a fmall -chicken. Put all tog-ether into the o laucepan, then keep fhaking it till it be thick, and pour it into a hot plate. Chicken Broth. FLAY an old cock or a large fowl, pick off all the fat, and break the bones to pieces with a rolling-pin. Put it into two quarts of water, with a large cruft of bread, and a blade of mace. Let it boil fofdv till it be as good as you would have it, which will probably re¬ quire five or fix hours. Pour it off, then put to it a quart more of boiling water, and cover it dole. Let it boil l'oftly till it be good, then ftrain it off, and feafon it with a very little fait. When you boil a chicken, fave the liquor, and when the meat be eat, break the bones, and put them to the liquor in which you boiled the chicken, with a blade of mace, and a cruft of bread. Let it boil till it be good, and then ftrain it off. Or you may boil your chicken in this manner: Let your faucepan be very clean and nice, and when the water APPENDIX. 435 water boils, put in your chicken, which muft be very nicely picked and cleaned, and laid in cold water a quar¬ ter of an hour before you boil it. Then take it out of the boiling water, and lay it in a pewter-difh. Save all the liquor that runs from it in the difh, cut up your chicken all in joints in the fame difh, bruife the liver very fine, add a little boiled parfley finely chopped, a very little lalt, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix all well together with two fpoonfuls of the liquor of the fowl, and pour it into the difh with the reft of the liquor. If there be not liquor enough, take two or three fpoonfuls of the liquor it was boiled in, and clap another difh over it. Then fet it over a chafing-difh of hot coals for five or fix minutes, and carry it to table hot with the cover on. This is better than butter, and lighter for the ftomach, though fome choofe it only with the liquor, and no parfley nor liver ; but this muft be determined by different palates. If it be for a weak perfon, take off the fkin of the chicken before you fet it on the chafing- difh ; and, if you roaft.it, make nothing but bread lauce, which is the lighted: fauce you can make for a fick per¬ fon. In this manner you may drefs a rabbit, excepting that a little piece only of the liver muft be bruifed. Chicken Water. FLAY a large fowl or a cock, bruife the bones with a hammer, and put it into a gallon of water, with a cruft of bread. Let it boil half away, and then ftrain it off for ufe. Bread Soup. SET a quart of water on the fire in a clean fauce- pan, and as much dry cruft of bread: cut to pieces as the top of a penny loaf, the drier the better, with a bit of butter as big as a walnut. Let it boil, then beat it with a fpoon, and keep boiling it till the bread and water be well mixed. Then feafon it with a very little lalt, and it will be very agreeable to a weak ftomach. Buttered Water. BEAT up the yolk of an egg in a pint of water, put in a piece of butter as big as a lmall w r alnut, with two or F f 2 three. APPENDIX. 43 ^ * three knobs of fugar, and keep ftirring it all the time it be on the fire. When it begins to boil, bruife it be¬ tween the faucepan and a mug, till it be fmooth, and has a great froth, when it will be fit to drink. It is or¬ dered in a cold, and where eggs will agree with the fto- mach. This is called egg-foup by the Germans, who are very fond of it for fupper. Seed Water. BRUISE half a fpoonful of carraway-feeds and a fpoonful of coriander-feeds. Boil them in a pint of water, then ftrain them, and beat into them the yolk of an egg. Mix it up with fome fack, and fweeten it to your tafte with double-refined fugar. Barley Water. BOIL a quarter of a pound of pearl barley in two quarts of water, 11dm it very clean, and when it has boiled half away, ftrain it. Make it moderately fweet, and put in two fpoonfuls of white wine. It muft be made a little warm before you drink it. To boil Pigeons. HAVING cleaned, walked, drawn, and fkinned your pigeons, boil them in milk and water for ten mi¬ nutes, and pour over them the following fagce. Par¬ boil the livers, and bruife them fine, with an equal weight of parfley boiled and chopped fine. Melt fome butter, firft mix a little of it with the liver and parfley, then mix all together, and pour it over the pigeons. To boil Partridges. cb PUT your partridge into boiiing water, and let it boil ten minutes. Then take it up into a pewter-plate, and cut it into two, laying the infide next the plate. Take' the crumb of a halfpenny roll, or thereabout, and, with a blade of mace, boil it two or three minutes. Pour away moil of the water, then beat it up with a fmall piece of good butter, and a little fait, and pour it over the partridge. Put a cover over it, and fet it over a chafing-difh of coals four or five minutes, and fend it APPENDIX. 437 it up hot, covered clofe. In this manner you may drefs any fort of wild fowl, only boiling it more or lels, ac¬ cording to its fize. Before you pour bread fauce over ducks, take off the (kins ; and, if you roaft them, lay bread fauce under them, which is much lighter for weak ftomachs than gravy. Fo boil Plaice or Flounders. THROW fome fait into your water, and when it; boils, put in your fifh. As loon as you think they be enough, take them out, and let them remain a little time on the dice to drain. Take two fpoonfuls of the liquor, with a little fait, and a little grated nutmeg. Then beat up the yolk of an egg well with the liquor, and ftir in the egg. Beat it well together, with a knife carefully dice away all the little bones round the fifh, and pour the fauce over it. Then fet it for a minute over a chafing difh of coals, and fend it up hot. In the room of this fauce, you may, if you think proper, fend up melted butter in a cup. Brown Caudle. PUT four fpoonfuls of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, and a piece of lemon-peel, in two quarts of water. Boil it about a quarter of an hour, but take care that it does not boil over. Then ftrain it, and add a quart of good ale that is not bitter. Then fweeten it to your palate, and add half a pint of white wine. When you do not put in white wine, your caudle muff be half of jt ale. White Caudle. MAKE your gruel as above, and ftrain it through a fieve, but put no ale to it. When you ufe it, fweeten it to your palate, grate in a little nutmeg, and put in ■what wine you think proper. If it be not for a ftck per- fon, you may fqueeze in the juice of a lemon. Water Gruel. PUT a large fpoonful of oatmeal into a pint of wa¬ ter, ftir it well together, and let it boil three or four times, Birring it often. Then ftrain it through a fieve, fait it F f 3 to APPENDIX. 43 8 to your palate, and put in a large piece of frefh butter. Brew it with a fpoon till the butter be all melted, and it Will then be fine and fmooth. Panada. PUT a blade of mace, a large piece of the crumb of bread, and a quart of water, into a clean faucepan. Let it boil two minutes, then take out the bread, and bruife it very fine in a bafon. Mix as much water as you think it will require, pour away the reft, and lweeten it to your palate. Put in a piete of butter as big as a walnut, but do not put in any wine, as that will fpoil it. Grate in a little nutmeg. Tfinglafs Jelly. PUT an ounce of ifinglafs, and half an ounce of cloves, into a quart of water. Boil it to a pint, ftrain jt upon a pound of loaf fugar, and when cold, fweeten your tea with it. You may add a little wine. Jellies made from calf’s feet, and other things, have been al¬ ready given. S alc^. TAKE a large tea-fpoonful of the powder of fajop, and put it into a pint of boiling water. Keep ftirring it till it be a fine jelly, and then put jn wine and fugar to your palate. Artificial AJJes Milk . TAKE two large fpoonfuls of hartfborn fbavings, two ounces of pearl barley, an ounce of eringo-roor, the fame quantity of China root, the fame of preferved ginger, ancj eighteen frails bruiledwkh the fhells. Boil them in three quarts of water till it comes to three pints. Then boil a pint of new milk, mix it with the reft, and put in two ounces of ba'fam of Tolu. Take half a pint in the morning, and half a pint at night. The following is nearly as good as the above,, and with forne confumptive people agrees better. Take a quart of milk, fet it in a pan over night, and the next morning take off all the cream. Then boil it, and fet it in the pan again till night. Then boil it, fet it in the APPENDIX. 4 39 the pan again, and the next morning fkim it. Make it blood-warm, and drink it as you do aftes milk. Or you may make a very good drink in this manner. Take a quart of milk, and a quart of water, with the top-cruft of a penny-loaf, and a blade of mace. Boil it a quarter of an hour very foftly, then pour it off, and drink it warm. SECTION IV. ', JSteceJfary Articles for Jea-faring Perjons. A S pickled mufhrooms are very handy for captains of fhips to take with them to lea, we fhall here give directions for that particular pu;pofe. Wafh your mufhrooms clean with a piece of flannel dipped in fait and water, put them, into a faucepan, and throw a little fait over them. Let them boil up three times in their own liquor, then throw them into a fieve to drain, and fpread them on a clean cloth. Let them lie till they be cold, then put them into wide-mouthed bottles, with a good deal of whole mace, a little nut'meg fliced, and a few cloves. Boil the lugar-vinegar of your own mak¬ ing, with a good deal of whole pepper, fome races of ginger, and two or three bay-leaves. Let it boil a few minutes, then ftrain it, and when it be cold, put it on, and'fill the bottles with mutton fat fried. Cork them, tie a bladder, then a leather over them, and keep them down clofe in as cool a place as poflible. Mufhrooms may likewife be prepared for fea ufe, with¬ out pickling them, in the following manner. Take large mufhrooms, peel them, and ferape out the infide. Then put them into a faucepan, throw a little lalt over them, and let them boil in their own liquor. Then throw them into a fieve to drain, lay them on tin places, and F f 4 fet 440 A P P E % N P I X. fet them in a cool oven. Repeat it often till they be perfectly dry, then put them into a clean ftone jar, tie them clown tight, and keep them in a dry place. They will keep a great while, and eat and look as well as truffles. Catchup is another ufeful article for perfons to take with them to fea, and if it be made in the following manner, it will keep twenty years. Take a gallon of ftrong (bale beer, a pound of anchovies wafhed from the pickle, the fame quantity of fhalots peeled, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of ginger, and two quarts of large mufhroom flaps rubbed to pieces. Cover all this clofe, and let it fimmer till it be half wafted. Then ftrain it through a flannel bag, let it (land till it be quite cold, and then bottle it. This may be carried to any part of the world ; and a fpoonful of it to a poupd of frefh butter melted, will make a fine fifh fauce, or will fupply the place of gravy fauce. The ftronger and ftaler the beer, the better will be the catchup. The following fifh fauce, though it will not keep more than a year, may be very ufeful in fhort voyages. Chop twenty-four anchovies, having fir ft boned them. Put to them ten fhalots cut fmall, a handful of feraped horfe- radifh, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint of water, and the fame quantity of red wine ; a lemon cut into ftices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, twelve cloves, and the fame number of pepper-corns. Boil them together till it comes to a quart, then ftrain it off, cover it clofe, and keep it in a cold dry place. Two fpoonfuls of it will be fufficient for a pound of but¬ ter. It is a pretty fauce for boiled fowls, and many other things, or in the room of gravy, lowering it with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Dripping will be very ufeful at fea, to fry fifh or meat, and for this purpofe it muft be thus potted. Take fix pounds of goofl beef dripping, boil it in forne foft wa¬ ter, ftrain it into a pan, and let it ftand till it be cold. Then tal.£ off the hard fat, and fcrape off the gravy which APPENDIX. 441 / which flicks to the infide. D-o this eight times, and when it be cold and hard, take it off clean from the water, and put it into a large faucepan, with fix bay- leaves, twelve cloves, half a pound of fait, and a quar¬ ter of a pound of whole pepper. Let the fat be all melted, and juft hot enough to ftrain through a fieve into the pot. Then let it ftand till it be quite cold, and cover it up. In this manner you may do what quantity you pleafe. The belt way to keep any fort of dripping is to turn the pot upfide down, and then no rats can get at it. It will keep on fhipboard, and make as fine puff-pafte cruft as any butter whatever, for pies-or puddings. Directions for fteeping dried Fifj. EVERY kind of fifh, except iiock-fifh, are faked, or either dried in the fun, as the moft common way, or in preparing kilns, and fometimes by the fmoke of wood fires in chimney-corners, and, in either cafe, re¬ quire being foftened and frefhened in proportion to their bulk, their nature, or drynefs. The very dry fort, as bacalao, cod-fifh, or whiting, and fuch like, fhould be fteeped in luke-warm milk and water, and the keeping kept as nearly as poffible to an equal degree of heat. The larger fifh fhould be fteeped twelve hours ; the fmall, as whitings, &c. about two hours. The cod are therefore laid to fteep in the evening j the whitings, &c. in the morning before they are to be dreffed. After the time of fteeping, they are to be taken out, and hung up by the tails until they be dreffed. The reafon of hanging them up is, that they foften equally as in the fteeping, without extracting too much of the relifh, which would make them infipid. When thus prepared, th$ fmall fiila, as whitings, tuff, and fuch like, muff be floured and laid on the gridiron, and when a little har¬ dened on the one fide, muff be turned and balled with oil upon a feather; and when bafted on both fides, and heated through, take them up, always obferving, that as fweet oil fuppies and fjpplies the fifh with a kind of artificial juices, fo the fire draws out thofe juices and hardens them. Therefore be careful not to let them broil APPENDIX. 442 broil too long; but no time can be prefcribed, becaufe of the difference of fires, and various fizes of the fifh. A clear charcoal fire is much the belt, and the fifh kept at a good dillance to broil gradually. The beft way to know when they be enough is, they will fwell a little in the balling, and you mull not let them fall again. The fauces are the fame as ufual to fait fifh; and the ufual garnifhj oyllers fried in batter; but for a fupper, for thofe that like fweet-oil the bell fauce is oil, vine¬ gar, and muftard, beat up to a confiilence, and ferved up in faucets. Should your fifh be boiled, as thofe of a large fort ufually are, it Ihould be in milk and water, but not pro¬ perly to fay boiled, as it Ihould only juft fimmer over an equal fire ; in which way, half an hour will do the largeft fifh, and five minutes the fmalleft. Some peo¬ ple broil both forts alter fimmering, and fome pick them to pieces, and then tofs them up in a pan with fried onions and apples. They are either way very good, and the choice depends on the weak or ftrong llomach of the eaters. Dried Salmon . DRIED falmon mull be managed in a different manner; for though a large fifh, they do not require more lleeping than a whiting; and Ihould be moderately peppered when laid on the gridiron. Dried Herrings . DRIED herrings fhould be lleeped the like time as the whiting, in fmall beer inftead of milk and wa¬ ter ; and to which, as to all kinds of broiled lalt-fifh, fweet-oil will always be found the beft balling, and no •ways affedt even the delicacy of thofe who do not love it. SEC- APPENDIX. 443 SECTION V. General Obfervations on the breeding of Poultry. H I L E families remain in the country, it will V V fometimes be expedted of the houfe-keeper, that ihe fhould know fomething of the management of poul¬ try. We fhall, therefore, appropriate a fedlion to that purpofe, in which we ihail lay down fome general rules for that bufinefs. Thefe hints may likewife be equally ufeful to thofe fmall families, who retire from the noife and buftle of large towns and populous cities, to fpend the .evening of their lives amidtt the tranquillity of rural icenes. In the firft place particular care muft be taken that the hen-rooft be kept clean. Do not choofe too large a breed, as they generally eat coarle ; and fix hens to a cock will be a good proportion. When fowls be nearly laying, give them whole rice, or nettle feed mixed with bran and bread, worked into a pafte. In order to make your fowls familiar, feed them at particular hours, and always in one place. Great care muft be taken to keep your ftore-houfe free from vermin; and contrive your perches lb as not to be over one another, nor over the nefts, in which always take care to keep clean ftraw. Wherever poul¬ try be kept, all forts of vermin will naturally come ; for which reafon it would be proper to fow wormwood and rue about the places in which you keep them, and you may alfo boil wormwood, and fprin,kle the floor with it, which will not only contribute to keep away vermin, but alfo add much to the health of your poul¬ try. As to rats, mice, and weafels, the beft method is to fet traps for them. If you feed your hens now and then with barley bruited, and with the toafts taken out of ale, they will lay 444 APPENDIX. lay often, and all the winter. To prevent your hens eating their own eggs, which they fometimes will, lay a piece of chalk cut like an egg, at which they will ofcdn be pecking, and thus finding themfelves difap- pointed, they will not afterwards attempt it. When your hens be inclinable to fet, which you will know by their.clucking, do not difappoint them, nor put more than ten under each. As to the whimfical opinion, that a hen fhould always be fet with an odd egg, fuch as nine, eleven, or thirteen, is a matter of which we fhall fay nothing. March is reckoned a good month to fet hens in ; but, if they be properly fed, they will lay many eggs, and fet at any time. Ducks ufually begin to lay in February ; and if your gardener be diligent in picking up fnails, grubs, cater¬ pillars, worms, and other infers, and lay them in one place, it wiii make your ducks familiar, and is the belt food, for change, you can give them. Parfiey, lowed about the ponds or river they ufe, gives their flefti an agreeable tafte; and be always fure to have one certain place for them conftantly to retire to at night. Partition off their nefts, and make them as near the water as pof- fible. Always feed them there, as it makes them love home, ducks being of a rambling nature. Their eggs fhould be taken away till they be inclined to fet, and it is beft for every duck, as well as every fowl, to fit upon her own eggs. The keeping of geefe is attended with little trouble; but they fpoil a deal of grafs, no creature choofing to eat after them. When the goflings be hatched, let them be kept within doors, and lettuce leaves and peas boiled in milk are very good for them. When they be about to lay, drive them to their nefts, and fhut them up, and fet every goofe with its own eggs, always feeding them at one place, and at ftated times. They will feed upon all forts of grain and grafs; and you may gather acorns, parboil them in ale, and it will fatten them furprifingly. Turkies require more trouble to bring them up than common poultry. The hen will lay till fhe be five years old. APPENDIX. 44$ old. Be fure always to feed them near the place where you intend they fhould lay, and feed them four or five times each day, they being great devourers. While they be fitting, they mull have plenty of viftuals be¬ fore them, and alfo be kept warm. To fatten them, you mull give them fodden barley and fodden oats, for the firft fortnight, and then cram them as you do capons. If you keep pigeons, which are generally hurtful to your neighbours, take care to feed them well, or you will lofe them all. They are great devourers, and yield but little profit. Their nefts fhould be made pri¬ vate and leparate, or they will always difturb one ano¬ ther. Be fure to keep their houfe clean, and lay among their food fome hemp-feed, of which they are great lovers. Tame rabbits are very fertile, bringing forth every month; and as foon as they have kindled, put them to the buck, or they will deftroy their young. The bell food for them ts the fweeteft hay, oats and bran, marfh- mallows, fowthiftle, parfley, cabbage-leaves, clover-grafs, &c. always frefh. If you do not keep them clean, they will poifon both themfelves and thofe that look after them. The belt way to cram a capon or a turkey is, to take barley meal properly lifted, and mix it with new milk. Make it into a good ftiff dough pafte ; then make it into long crams or rolls, big in the middle, and fmall at both ends. Then wetting them in lukewarm milk, give the capon a full gorge three times a day, morning, noon, and night, and in two or three weeks it will be as fat as neceffary. Fowls are very liable to a diforder called the pip, which is a white thin lcale growing on the tip of the tongue, and will prevent poultry from feeding. This is eafily difcerned, and generally proceeds from drink¬ ing puddle water, or want of water, or eating filthy meat. This, however, may be cured, by pulling off the fcale with your naii, and then rubbing the tongue with fait. The APPENDIX. The flux in poultry comes from their eating too muck* meat, and the cure is, to give them peas and bran fcald- ed. If your poultry be much troubled with lice, (which is common, proceeding from corrupt food, and other caufes) take pepper beaten fmall, mix it with warm wa¬ ter, wafh your poultry with it, and it will kill all kinds of vermin. A Ca~ APPENDIX. 447 A Catalogue of Garden Stuffs, Poultry, and Fife, in Seajon in the different Months cf the Year. Fruits. , \ l NANU ARY. Pears, apples, nuts, almonds, medlars, J fervices, and grapes. February. Pears, apples, and grapes. Alarch. Pears, apples, and forced ftrawberries. April. Apples, pears, forced cherries, and apricots for tarts. May. Pears, apples, ftrawberries, melons, green apri¬ cots, cherries, goofeberries, and currants for tarts. June. Currants, goofeberries, ftrawberries, cherries, peaches, pears, apples, apricots, melons, grapes, necta¬ rines, and pine-apples. July. Peaches, cherries, apples, pears, .goofeberries, apricots, plums, nectarines, melons, rafpberries, ftraw¬ berries, and pine-apples. Augufk. Apples, cherries, plums, nectarines, peaches, mulberries, filberts, figs, grapes, pears, currants, goofe¬ berries, ftrawberries, melons, and pine-apples. September. Walnuts, grapes, pears, apples, plums, peaches, lazaroles, quinces, medlars, hazel-nuts, filberts, rnorello cherries, currants, melons, and pine-apples. Odlcber. Services, medlars, figs, peaches, grapes, walnuts, black and white bullace, pears, quinces, filberts, hazel-nuts, and apples. November. Pears, apples, bullace, walnuts, hazel¬ nuts, cheftnuts, medlars, fervices, and grapes. December. Pears, apples, medlars, walnuts, cheftnuts, fervices, hazel-nuts, and grapes. Roots and Vegetables. January. Spinach, purple and white brocoli, fprouts, coleworts, favoys, cabbages, celery, endive, chervil, bar¬ rel. APPENDIX. 448 re], parfley, beets, cardoons, tarragon, turnips, radifh, rape, muftard, creffes, lettuces, hyffop, pot-marjoram, favory, thyme, cucumbers from hot-houfes, mint, fkir- rets, fcorzonera, potatoes, turnips, carrots, parfnips, fage, afparagus, Jerufalem artichokes, and mufhrooms. February . Coleworts, favoys, cabbages, creffes, let¬ tuces, chard-beets, celery, l'orrel, endive, chervil, parfley, beets, cardoons, purple and white brocoli, fprouts, mar¬ joram, favory, thyme, tanfey, burner, mint, tarragon, turnips, radifhes, rape, and muftard. Alfo may be had, forced radifhes, cucumbers, kidney-beans, and afpa¬ ragus. March. Spinach, favoys, cabbages, borecole, cole- worts, ihalots, garlick, onions, Jerufalem artichokes, parfnips, turnips, carrots, muftard, creffes, chives, let¬ tuces, mufhrooms, tanfey, endive, celery, fennel, parfley, beets, cardoons, brocoli, kidney-beans, cucumbers, hyffop, pot marjoram, winter favory, thyme, burnet, mint, tarragon, turnips, rape, and radifhes. April. Brocoli, fprouts, coleworts, chervil, parfley, fennel, fpinach, radifhes, tarragon, burnet, forrel., endive, celery, young onions, lettuces, thyme, and ail forts of fallads and pot herbs. May. Spinach, artichokes, cauliflowers, early cab¬ bages, radifhes, turnips, carrots, early potatoes, parfley, forrel, thyme, muftard, creffes, lettuces, fennel, purflane,-' mint, balm, cucumbers, tragopogon, afparagus, kidney- beans, beans, peas, and all forts of fmall fallads and favory herbs. June. Peas, beans, onions, radifhes, parfnips, pota¬ toes, turnips, carrots, purflane, parfley, fpinach, lettuces, cucumbers, artichokes, kidney-beans, afparagus, rape, creffes, thyme, and aft forts of fmall fallads and pot herbs. July. Cauliflowers, mufhrooms, falfify, fcorzonera, rocombole, garlick, onions, radifhes, potatoes, turnips, carrots, creffes, lettuce, purflane, forrel, chervil, finochia, endive, celery, artichokes, fprouts, cabbages, kidney- beans, beans, peas, mint, bairn, thyme, and all forts of fmall fallads and pot herbs. 9 Augujl. APPENDIX. 44f Augujl. Radifhes, potatoes, turnips, carrots, peas, falflfy, fcorzonera, fhalots, garlick, onions, endive, celery, beets, fprours, cauliflowers, cabbages, artichokes, mufli- rooms, beans, kidney-beans, lettuce, finochia, parfley, marjoram, favory, thyme, and all forts of fmall fallads and fweet herbs. September. Beans, peas, falflfy, fcorzonera, garlick, leeks, onions, fhalots, potatoes, turnips, carrots, parfley, celery, endive, cardoons, cauliflowers, lprouts, cabbages, artichokes, mufhrooms, kidney-beans, finochia, chervil, forrel, beets, lettuces, and all forts of fmall fallads and foup herbs. October. Salfify, fkirrets, potatoes, turnips, parfnips, carrots, artichokes, cauliflowers, fprouts, cabbages, fino¬ chia, chervil, cardoons, endive, celery, rocombole, gar¬ lick, fhalots, leeks, fcorzonera, chard-beets, thyme, fa¬ vory, lettuce, and all forts of young fallads and pot- herbs. November. Rocombole, fhalots, leeks, onions, fcor¬ zonera, falflfy, fkirrets, potatoes, parfnips, turnips, carrots* parfley, cardoons, chard-beets, fpinach, cole worts, fprouts, favoys, cauliflowers, cabbages, Jerufalem artichokes, creffes, endive, chervil, lettuces, and all forts of fmall fallads and pot herbs. December. Turnips, parfnips, carrots, purple and white brocoli, favoys, cabbages, fhalots, onions, leeks, falflfy, fcorzonera, fkirrets, potatoes, parfley, fpinach, beets, endive, celery, rocombole, garlick, forced afpa- ragus, cardoons, creffes, lettuces, thyme, and all forts of fmall fallads and pot herbs. Poultry and Game. January. Pullets, fowls, chickens, tame pigeons, capons, turkies, fnipes, woodcocks, rabbits, hares, par¬ tridges, and pheafants. February. Fowls, pullets, capons, turkies, chickehs, pigeons, tame rabbits, hares, fnipes, woodcocks, par¬ tridges, and pheafants. March. Tame rabbits, pigeons, ducklings, chickens, fowls, capons, pullets, and turkies. G g April V 450 A P P E N D I X. April. Chickens, fowls, pullets, pigeons, ducklings, leverets, and rabbits. May. Chickens, fowls, pullets, turkey poults, duck¬ lings, green geefe, leverets, and rabbits. June. Green geefe, chickens, pullets, fowls, plovers, turkey poults, ducklings, wheat ears, leverets, and rab¬ bits. July. Green geefe, pigeons, chickens, fowls, pullets, ducklings, ducks, turkey poults, leverets, rabbits, plo¬ vers, wheat ears, pheafants, and young partridges. Auguji. Turkey poults, green geefe, chickens, fowls, pullets,' pigeons, rabbits, leverets, ducklings, plovers, wheat ears, wild ducks, and pheafants. September. Ducks, chickens, fowls, pullets, turkies, geefe, larks, pigeons, teals, rabbits, hares, partridges, and pheafants. OSlober. Chickens, fowls, pullets, pigeons, turkies, geefe, fnipes, woodcocks, widgeons, teals, wild ducks, rabbits, hares, larks, dotterels, partridges, and pheafants. November. Pigeons, pullets, chickens, fowls, turkies, geefe, larks, fnipes, woodcocks, teals, widgeons, wild ducks, rabbits, hares, dotterels, partridges, and pheafants. December. Fowls, capons, pigeons, pullets, turkies, geefe, larks, fnipes, woodcocks, rabbits, hares, chickens, dotterels, widgeons, teals, wild ducks, partridges, and pheafants. Fijh. - January. Cod, crawfifh, eels, lampreys, perch, tench, carp, fturgeon, fkate, thornback, turbot, plaice, floun¬ ders, foies, oyfters, prawns, crabs, lobfters, fmelts, and whitings. February. Thornback, turbot, flounders, plaice, ftur- geons, foies, cod, prawns, oyfters, crabs, lobfters, fmelts, whitings, fkate, crawfifh, lampreys, eels, carp, tench, and perch. March. Tench, carp, mullets, eels, whitings, foies, fkate, thornback, turbot, lobfters, flounders, plaice, prawns, crawfifh, and crabs. 4 April. APPENDIX. 'v 45 i April. Crawfilh, trout, tench, chub, carp, mullets^ fkate, foies, turbot, falmon, prawns, lobfters, crabs, fmelts, and herrings. May. Chub, trout, eels, tench, carp, fmelts, her¬ rings, turbots, foies, falmon, prawns, crabs, crawfifti* and lobfters. June. Eels, pike, tench, carp, trout, mackerel, mul¬ lets, turbot, foies, falmon, fmelts, lobfters, crawfilh, prawns, and herrings. July. Mackarel, mullets, haddocks, cod, flounders, plaice, foies, herrings, carp, falmon, fkate, thornback, pike, tench, lobfters, eels, crawfilh, and prawns; Auguft. Thornbacks, fkate, plaice, flounders, had¬ docks, cod, carp, pike, herrings* mackerel, mullets, oyfters, prawns, crawfifh, eels, and lobfters. September. Thornbacks, plaice, flounders, haddocks, cod, carp, falmon, fmelts, foies, fkate, oyfters, lobfters, pike, and tench. October. Brills, fmelts, bearbet, holoberts, dorees, perch, tench, carp, pike, gudgeons, oyfters, muftels, cockles, lobfters, and falmon trout. November. Salmon, bearbet, holoberts, dorees, gur¬ nets, tench, pike, carp, fmelts, falmon trout, muftels, cockles, gudgeons, lobfters, and oyfters. December. Bearbet, holoberts, dorees, fturgeon, gur¬ nets, turbot, carp, foies, codlings, cod, fmelts, oyfters muftels, cockles, eels, and gudgeons. N. B. Beef, mutton, and veal, are in feafon all the year j houfe-lamb, in January, February, March, No¬ vember, and December; grafs-lamb, in April, May, June, July, Auguft, September, and October ; pork, in January, February, March, September, Gcftober, No¬ vember, and December; buck-venifon, in June, July, Auguft, and September; and doe-venifon, in Qdtoben, November, and December. G g a A M A E - L 45* / ' A / ' M A R K .E T 3 , N G TABLE, By the POUND. Beef, Mut¬ ton, V eal, .Lamb, Pork, per lb. Two Pound Three Pound Four Pound Five Pound Six Pound - Seven Pound ) s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. I 0 2 0 3 0 4 0 5 0 6 0 7 0 2 1 0 3 ! 0 5 0 H 0 7 i 0 8f *f Q 3 0 4 i 0 6 0 7 ! 0 9 0 I0 i 0 3 l 0 5 i 0 7 0 Sf 0 iof 1 of 2 0 4 0 6 0 8 0 10 1 0 1 2 ^4. 0 4 i 0 6| 0 9 0 1 if 1 Si 0 5 0 7 f 0 10 1 of 1 3 1 51 2| 0 5 i 0 8* 0 11 1 if 1 4 i 1 7 i 3 0 6 0 9 1 0 1 3 1 6 1 9 3 i 0 6| 0 9 ! 1 1 1 4 ? 1 7 i 1 iof 3i 0 7 0 I0 i 1 2 1 5 l 1 9 2 of 3 f 0 7 i 0 11 I 1 3 1 6f 1 iof 2 9 i -4- 4 0 8 1 0 1 4 1 8 2 0 2 4 4 l 0 8f 1 °4 1 5 1 9 1 2 if 2 5f 4 l 0 9 1 1 6 1 iof 2 3 2 7 f 4 | 0 9 - 1 2 I 1 7 1 H| 2 4 t 2 9 i 5 0 10 1 3 1 8 2 I 2 6 2 11 5i 0 1 of i 3 ! 1 9 2 2 T 2 7 i 3 of 5 l 0 11 1 4i 1 16 2 3 i 2 9 3 2 f 5 ? 0 n| 1 5 ii 1 11 4i 2 1 ;> v 3 4 ? 6 I 0 1 6 2 0 2 6 0 6 M A R- A t 453 ] A M A R K F. T I N G T A B L E • By the S T 0 N E. Beef, Mutton, I Stone 2 Stone 3 Stone. or 4 Stone, or Veal, Lamb, or i Alb. or 281b. 42’ib. is 561b. is * Pork, &c. at pet lb. is is d. s. d. s. d. 1. s. d. 1. s. d. I r 2 2 4 0 3 6 0 4 8 I* i 51 2 11 0 4 4 f 0 5 10 i| i 9 3 6* 0 5 3 0 7 , 0 if 2 of 4 i 0 6 1 i 0 8 2 2 2 4 4 8 0 7 0 0 9 4 nl 2 ^ 7 i 5 3 0 7 iof 0 10 6 oi 2 ii 5 10 0 8 9 0 1 1 8 9 — 3 2 2 6 5 0 9 a- I / 2 0 12 10 o 3 5 7 o 0 10 6 0 14 0 3 i 3 9 2 7 7 0 ii 4 i 0 15 2 3 l 4 I 8 n 0 12 3 0 16 4 31 4 4 l 8 9 0 i 3 ii 0 17 6 4 4 8 9 4 0 14 0 0 18 8 41 4 n| 9 1 1 0 14 I0| 0 19 10 4 z 5 3 IO 6 0 15 9 1 1 0 4 | 5 61 11 i 0 16 7! 1 2 2 5 5 10 11 8 0 17 6 1 3 4. 5 i 6 i| 12 3 0 18 4f 1 4 6 5 l 6 5 12 10 0 19 3 1 5 8 5 * 6 8 i 3 5 I 0 l| i 6 10 6 7 o H o I 1 0 1 8 0 A T A 4 t 454 1 ■ A TABLE to call up Expences, or Wages. Per Year. I Per Month. Per Week. Per Day. 1 . 1 JL • s. d. f. J. s. d. f. 1 . s. d. f* 1 0 1 6 2 0 0 4 2 0 0 0 3 2 0 3 0 3 0 0 9 1 0 0 1 i 3 0 4 7 1 0 1 1 3 0 0 2 0 4 0 6 1 3 0 1 6 2 0 0 2 3 5 0 7 8 0 0 1 11 0 0 0 3 1 6 0 9 2 2 0 2 3 2 0 0 4 0 7 0 10 9 0 0 2 8 1 0 0 4 2 8 0 12 3 1 0 3 0 3 0 0 5 r 9 0 13 9 3 0 3 5 2 0 0 6 0 10 0 15 4 0 0 3 10 0 0 0 6 2 11 0 16 10 2 0 4 2 3 0 0 7 1 12 0 18 5 0 0 4 7 1 0 0 8 0 i3 0 !9 11 1 0 4 11 3 0 0 8 2 14 I 1 5 3 0 5 4 1 0 0 9 1 15 I 3 0 1 0 5 9 0. 0 0 9 3 16 I 4 6 2 0 6 1 3 0 0 10 2 17 I 6 1 0 0 6 6 1 0 0 11 1 18 I 7 7 2 0 6 10 3 0 0 11 3 *9 I ' 9 1 3 0 n J 3 2 Q I 0 2 20 I 10 8 1 0 7 8 0 0 I 1 1 3° 2 6 0 1 0 11 6 0 0 .1 7 3 40 3 1 4 2 0 15 4 0 0 2 2 1 5 ° 3 16 8 2 0 J 9 2 1 0 2 9 0 60 4 12 0 3 1 3 0 1 0 3 3 2 70 5 7 4 3 1 6 10 1 0 3 10 0 80 6 2 9 0 1 10 8 1 0 4 4 2 90 6 18 1 0 1 14 6 1 0 4 11 2 100 7 13 5 0 1 18 4 1 0 5 5 3 200 15 6 10 1 3 16 8 2 0 10 11 2 300 23 0 3 1 5 i 5 0 3 0 16 5 1 400 3° 13 8 2 7 13 5 0 I 1 11 0 500 38 7 1 2 9 11 9 1 I 7 4 3 1000 76 3 0 3 6 3 2 9 2 ■Notej In thefe two tables, the month is of 28 days. [ 455 1 A TABLE to caft up Expences or Wages by the Day, Week, Month, or Year. By the Day By the Week. By the Month. By the Year. s. d. 1 . s. d. 1 . s. d. 1 . s. d. o I 0 o 7 0 2 4 1 10 5 0 O 0 - i 2 0 4 8 3 0 10 0 3 o i 9 0 7 0 4 11 3 o 4 0 2 4 0 9 4 6 1 8 0 5 0 2 11 0 11 8 7 12 1 0 6 o 3 6 0 14 0 9 2 6 o 7 0 4 1 0 16 4 10 12 11 0 8 0 4 8 0 18 8 12 3 4 o 9 o 5 3 1 1 0 13 13 9 o 10 o 5 10 1 3 4 15 A. 2 o ii 0 6 5 1 5 8 16 14 7 I 0 0 7 0 1 8 0 18 5 0 2 0 o H 0 2 16 0 36 10 0 3 0 I i 0 4 4 0 54 15 0 4 0 I 8 . • - 0 5 12 0 73 0 0 5 0 V I 15 0 7 0 0 9 1 5 0 6 0 2 2 0 8 8 0 109 10 G 7 o ,2 9 0 9 16 0 1 27 5 O 8 o 2 16 0 11 4 0 146 0 0 9 o 3 3 0 12 12 0 164 5 0 10 0 3 10 0 H 0 0 182 10 0 ii 0 3 17 0 15 • 8 0 200 i5 0 12 0 4 4 0 16 16 0 219 0 0 13 o 4 11 0 18 4 0 237 5 0 14 0 4 18 0 19 12 0 255 10 0 i5 0 5 5 0 21 0 0 273 15 0 16 0 5 12 0 22 8 0 292 0 0 i7 0 5 0 23 16 0 310 5 I 18 0 6 6 0 25 4 0 328 10 0 l 9 o 6 13 0 26 12 0 346 15 0 20 0 7 0 0 28 0 0 365 0 0 FINIS, 4 BOOKS printed for Scatcherd and Whitaker* N° 12, Ave-Maria-Lane. 5 This Day are pullijh'ed , Price Four Shillings, 1. A New anil Com pie CELLAR BOOK; or, BUTLER’s ASSISTANT, for keeping an Account of Liquors on a much im¬ proved Plan, which will be of general Ufe, either for a large or fmall Eliablifhment : Containing, in feparate Columns for every Day in the Year, a Lilt of fuch Wines as are in general Ufe, and Blank Columns for fuch Wines a^ are not there mentioned. Alfo Columns for Memorandums for every Day in the Week, and for various other Purpofes. With a Lilt of fuch Foreign Wines, Li¬ quors, Cordials, &c. as a>e rnoit elteerhed in this anq foreign Countries. By Charles Lor.gworth, Wine-Cooper, &c. to his Royal Highnefs the Prince of Wales. r Neceffary for all Families . 2. A COMPANION to the ALTAR; Brewing the Nature and Neaffify of a Suer mental Prep ration, in order to our wor¬ thy receiving the Holy Communion ; wherein thofe Fears and Scruples of eating and drinking unworthily, are proved groqndjefs and unwarrantable. To which L added, i'iie Service of the Holy Communion; with Prayers i r Morning and Evening, before re¬ ceiving the Sacrament, ang Meditations proper to be read at and after the Holy Service. The F.fth Edition. 3. The DAILY COMPANION; with Chriftian Supports under tee Troubles of this World; to comfort and fuccour all thofe who in this tranlitory Life are in Trouble, Sorrow, Need, Sirknefs, or any other Adverlity, To which are added. Prayers and Meditations fuitablc- to all Perfons afflicted in Mind, Body, or Eibte. Price 8d. The Fifteenth Edition. 4. The GRAVE. A Poem. By Robert Blair. To which is added, Gray’s Elegy in a Country Church-Yard : With Notes, Moral, Critical, and Explanatory, By George Wright, Efq; Author of the Notes to Young’s Night Thoughts, &c. &c. Em- b llifhed with an elegant Frontifpiece, and a Vignette Title Page. P-rice is. r. The SENTIMENTS of EXPERIENCE, in Profe and Vcrfe ; or. The ART of SAYING MUCH in a FEW WORDS, on the molt Ufeful and Important Subjects. Price is. fewed. 6. MENTOR’s LETTERS, addrefed to Youth. By Edmund Rack. “ I confider an human Soul without Education, like Marble in the Quarry, which fhews none of its inherent Beauties ’tilt the Skill of the : olifher fetches out the Colours, makes the Surface Ihme, and hit overs every ornamental Cloud, Spot, and Vein, that runs through the Body of it. Education, after the fame Manner, when it works upon a noble Mind, draws out to view every latent Virtue and Perfection, which, without fuch Helps, are never able to make their Appearance.” Addjson. The Se¬ cond Edition. Price is. / S' * < I.