https://archive.org/details/linenmanufactureOOpedd THE SK LINEN MANUFACTURER, WEAVER, AND WARPER’S ASSISTANT, CONTAINING A NEW AND CORRECT SET OF Cables, drafts, CmTmttp, ARITHMETICAL RULES AND EXAMPLES, ADAPTED TO THE PRESENT STATE OF THE WOOLLEN AND LINEN WAmwwAmmmm^ AND HOUSEHOLD CUSTOMARY WEAVING. With a Description of the Sliding Rule , And the application of it to the Art of Weaving . By ALEXANDER PEDDIE, AUTHOR OF THE COTTON MANUFACTURER’S ASSISTANT, ILLUSTRATED WITH ENGRAVINGS. GLASGOW s PRINTED BY KHULL, BLACKIE, & CO. AND ARCHIBALD FULLARTON & CO. EDINBURGH. 1822 ^ntnetr ttt J^tattotms’ 2£all. TO THE Household Customary Weavers , and Linen Manufacturers of the United Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland. The very flattering reception the Cotton Manufacturer’s Assistant met with, which has now gone through a number of editions* convinces me that a System for the use and convenience of those who are engaged in the Household Customary Weaving* and Linen Trade, would be of the great- est utility and importance; as nothing for their use has ever appeared worthy of no- tice, except that excellent little work pub* lished by Mr. James Malloch in 1785, and enlarged by his brother, Mr. Charles Mal- loch, in 1808, which is justly entitled to praise. I am fully aware, that my work will be variously appreciated ; but, I trust, that, from its correctness, usefulness, and utility, it will fully recommend itself, as I have spared no pains to lay it down in as clear and comprehensive a style as the nature IV of the work would admit: and, although some slight errors may have crept in, it is hoped that the difficulty which attends the investi- gation of a subject, respecting which little in- formation can be derived from former writers, will fully apologize for any imperfections which may present themselves. In the following work will be found a great variety of new, interesting, and very useful matter. I have avoided every thing which I considered extraneous and superfluous, re- taining only what was judged essential and necessary, which I hope is arranged in so plain a manner, as to be easily understood by any ordinary capacity. Accept of these my weak endeavours to do a general good: and that a generous emulation, to promote the prosperity of our Common Country may distinguish us all, is the ardent wish of Your Most Obedient Servant, PERTH , 2 l th Sejit* 1817 ^ ALEX. PEDDIE. INTRODUCTION. The Art of Weaving is of very ancient origins the many fabulous stories concerning it, such as the story of Penelope’s web; and also the frequent men- tion of it in the sacred writings, clearly show, that the making of cloth from thread of wool, flax, hair, silk, &c. is a very ancient invention. Like other arts, it has undergone an infinite variety of changes, and, consequently, improvements as to the prepara- tion of the material and modes of operation follow- ed by the artist. No person can ever practically be employed in all the branches of it; and, al- though each part bears a strong analogy to the rest, yet a knowledge of the various parts can only be obtained by minute investigation, experience and reflection. The history of the Art of Weaving is very little known, and probably its great antiquity is the cause why the earlier eras are involved in the most perfect obscurity. However, it is evident that none of the species of it originated in Britain. The manufac- ture of silk was first practised in China, and the cotton in India ; both the linen and cotton were borrowed by us from the Continent of Europe; and the subsequent improvements made on it in this country were first introduced by foreign artists who 7 settled among us. At the present day our superi- ority is only acknowledged in the cotton manufac- ture; whilst in that of the linen* woollen, and Vi INTRODUCTION. silk, the pre-eminence is still claimed by other countries. It is probable, that the Gauls acquired the Art of Weaving from the Greeks, and afterwards com- municated the knowledge of it to the people of Britain: one thing is certain, that the inhabitants of the southern part of Britain were well acquaint- ed with the dressing, spinning, and weaving, both of flax and wool, when invaded by the Romans. The art of weaving linen, which, it is probable, was the first species of cloth invented, in all likeli- hood originated with the Egyptians, as, from early history, we find that the fine linen of Egypt was held in the highest estimation, by the inhabitants of Palestine and other eastern nations, who communi- cated it to the nations of Europe; by slow degrees it then found its way into Italy, Spain, Gaul, Ger- many, and Britain. The Belgians also manufac- tured linen on the Continent, and afterwards when they settled in Britain, it is probable they contin- ued the practice, and taught it in the districts in which they resided. Whatever knowledge the Britons might have in the art of weaving, before they were invaded by the Romans, it is certain after that period it was very much improved. It appears, that at Winchester in England there was an Imperial manufactory of woollen and linen cloth, established for the use of the Roman army then in Britain. Perhaps the most mateiiles specimen of ancient figure weaving and embr oidcrv now found, is that preserved in the INTRODUCTION* Vil cathedral of Bayeaux ; it is a piece of linen 1 9 in- ches in breadth, and 67 yards in length, and con- tains the history of the conquest of England, by William Duke of Normandy, from 1065 to the battle of Hastings, 1066* This curious work is supposed to have been executed by Matilda, (wife to William Duke of Normandy, afterwards King of England,) and the ladies of her court. It must be owned, that much of the beauty of this piece of tapestry is owing to the exquisite needle-work with which it is adorned, although it is certain that the art of figure weaving was then known in Britain. About the year 1200, the wea° vers in all great towns were formed into Guilds or Corporations, and had certain privileges bestowed upon them by Royal Charters. In 1 197 r Richard I. made a law for regulating the fabrication and sale of cloth. The number of weavers at that time however was small, until Edward III. for the en- couragement of the art, offered rewards to foreign weavers who should come and settle in England* In the year 1336 , two Brabant weavers settled at York, which, says Edward, may prove a great ben- efit to us and our subjects. In this he was not disap- pointed, for the superior skill and dexterity of these men, and the communication of their knowledge to others, soon manifested itself by the rapid im- provement and spread of the art of weaving in this Island. Great numbers of weavers from Flanders were driven into England by the cruel persecutions of the Duke d’Alva, in the year 1567, who settled in VIII INTRODUCTION. different parts of the Island, and introduced, the manufactures of baizes, serges, crapes, &c. In consequence of the revocation of the edict of Nantz, and a variety of other acts of religious per- secution enforced by Louis XIV. nearly 50,000 manufacturers of various descriptions, took refuge in Britain; and the improvements which took place at this time chiefly related to linen weaving. From this era, I presume, we may date the rise of theflinen manufacture in this kingdom. To these sources we may trace the establishment of our cloth man- ufactures, and the causes which have produced their progressive advance to the present state. These facts indisputably prove that we can by no means pretend to superior knowledge, but, by a chain of events, economical, political, and religious, may be traced the present unrivalled greatness of our manufactures. Having given a short cursory sketch of the his- tory, and the causes which led to the extension, of the Art of Weaving in this Island, I shall now pro- ceed to the general plan and explanation of the Work. In Scotland, formerly 11 and 12 quarter reels were much used, but now they are entirely laid a« side. By Stat. 13. Geo. I. Cap. 26, sect. 5. linen yarn is only to be reeled on a 10 quarter or 90 inch reel, under pain of certain penalties, and tied up in cuts of 120 threads each, 48 of which make a spyndle. INTRODUCTION. IX £ §£ •i V jg ZZj © Q Xfl Q- Q O Cl H3 03 Q> O O © q p q o o o ^ ^ Cl «J* t'- »-* *o II II 1! ll II m C T3 c3 >< 6 • o e o © o Q Q Q Q He* Cl o o 10 600 o o o to o o €% II il It I! II & CZi 0* X G ^ . H. c. Th. Sev l 0 0 0 82 2 0 0 0 102 6 2 0 0 l 44 4 0 0 t 85 5 3 0 1 0 6 6 0 1 0 68 4 4 0 l 0 89 I 0 1 1 51 3 5 0 1 1 51 3 0 2 0 34 2 6 0 2 0 13 5 0 2 1 17 1 7 0 2 0 96 0 0 3 0 0 0 8 0 2 1 58 2 0 3 0 102 6 9 o 3 0 20 4 . 0 3 1 85 5 10 0 3 0 102 6 0 4 0 68 4 11 0 3 1 65 1 0 4 1 51 3 12 0 4 0 27 3 0 5 0 34 2 13 d 4 0 109 5 0 5 1 17 1 14 0 4 1 72 0 0 6 0 0 0 15 0 5 0 34 2 0 6 0 102 6 16 0 5 0 116 4 0 6 1 85 5 17 0 5 1 78 6 0 7 0 68 4 18 0 6 0 41 1 0 7 1 51 3 v 19 0 6 1 3 3 0 8 0 34 2 20 0 6 1 85 5 0 8 1 17 1 30 0 10 0 68 4 0 12 1 85 5 40 0 13 1 51 3 0 17 0 34 2 50 0 17 0 34 2 0 21 0 102 6 60 0 20 1 17 1 1 1 1 51 3 ; 70 1 0 0 0 0 1 6 0 0 0 80 1 3 0 102 6 1 10 0 68 4 90 1 6 1 85 5 1 14 1 17 1 100 1 10 0 68 4 1 18 1 85 5 110 1 13 1 51 3 1 23 0 34 2 120 1 17 0 34 2 2 3 0 102 6 130 1 20 1 17 1 2 7 1 51 3 HO 2 0 0 0 0 2 J 2 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 25 Ills. Sp. 6 Porters. IT. C. Th. 1 0 0 1 3 2 0 1 0 6 3 0 1 1 10 4 0 2 0 13 5 0 2 1 17 6 0 3 0 20 7 0 3 1 24 8 0 4 0 27 9 0 4 1 30 10 0 5 0 34 1 1 0 5 1 37 12 0 6 0 41 13 0 6 i 4 4 14 0 7 0 4 8 15 0 7 l 51 36 0 8 0 5 4 17 0 8 1 53 33 0 9 0 61 39 0 9 1 65 20 0 10 0 68 30 0 15 0 102 40 0 20 1 17 50 1 1 1 51 60 1 6 1 85 70 1 12 0 0 80 1 37 0 34 90 1 22 0 68 100 2 3 0 102 110 2 9 1 17 120 2 13 1 51 130 o 18 1 85 140 3 0 0 0 7 Porters. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev O 0 1 24 O 0 1 O 48 0 0 II 72 O O 2 0 96 0 0 3 0 0 0 0 31 240 0 40 48 O 0 41 720 0 5 0 96 O 0 6 0 O O O 6 1 24 O 0 7 0 48, O O 71 720 0 8 O 95 O 0 9 0 0 0 0 9 I 2 1. O O 10 O 43 O 0 10 1 72 O 0 11 0 98 O 0 12 0 0 0 0 18 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 1 6 0 0 0 1 12 0 0 0 1 18 O 0 0 2 0 0 0 0 2 6 0 0 0 2 12 O 0 0 2 18 O 0 0 3 0 0 0 0 3 6 0 0 O 3 12 0 0 0 1 Sev. 3 6 2 5 1 4 0 3 6 2 5 1 4 O 3 6 2 5 1 4 6 1 3 5 O 2 4 6 1 3 5 O D 26 LINEN WEAVER^ 8 Porters. 9 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. , H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 0 i 44 4 o 0 1 65 1 2 0 l 0 89 *1 0 i 1 10 2 3 0 2 0 13 5 0 2 0 75 3 4 0 2 1 58 2 0 3 0 20 4 5 0 1 3 0 102 6 0 3 1 8 5 5 6 0 4 0 27 3 0 4 1 30 6 7 o 4 1 ' 72 0 0 5 0 96 0 8 0 5 0 1 16 4 0 6 0 41 1 9 0 6 0 41 1 0 6 1 106 2 10 0 6 1 85 5 0 7 1 51 5 11 0 7 1 10 2 0 8 0 116 4 12 0 8 0 54 6 0 9 0 61 5 13 0 8 1 99 3 0 10 0 6 6 14 0 9 1 24 0 0 10 1 72 0 15 0 10 0 68 4 0 11 1 17 1 16 0 10 1 113 1 0 12 0 82 2 17 0 11 1 37 5 0 13 0 27 3 18 0 12 0 82 2 0 13 1 92 4 19 0 13 0 6 6 0 14 1 37 5 20 0 13 1 51 3 0 15 0 102 G 30 0 20 1 17 1 0 23 0 34 2 40 1 3 0 102 6 1 6 1 85 5 50 1 10 0 68 4 1 14 1 17 1 60 1 17 0 34 2 1 22 0 68 4 70 2 0 0 0 0 2 6 0 0 0 80 2 6 1 85 5 2 13 1 51 3 90 2 a o 1 51 3 o 21 0 102 6 100 2 20 1 17 1 3 5 0 34 2 110 3 3 0 102 6 3 12 1 85 5 120 3 10 0 68 4 3 ’20 1 17 1 ISO 3 17 0 34 2 4 4 0 68 4 140 4 0 0 0 0 4 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 27 200 Ells. Sp. H. c. Th. l 0 0 1 85 2 0 i 1 51 3 0 2 1 17 4 0 3 0 102 5 0 4 0 68 6 0 5 0 34 7 0 6 0 0 8 0 6 1 85 9 0 7 1 51 10 0 8 1 17 1 1 0 9 0 102 12 0 10 0 68 13 0 11 0 34 14 0 12 .0 0 15 0 12 1 3 5 16 0 13 1 51 37 0 14 1 17 18 0 15 0 102 19 0 16 0 68 20 0 17 0 34 30 1 1 1 51 40 1 10 0 68 50 1 18 1 85 60 2 3 0 102 70 2 12 0 0 80 2 20 1 17 90 3 5 0 34 100 S 13 1 51 110 3 22 0 68 120 4 6 1 85 130 4 15 0 102 HO 5 0 0 0 11 Porters. Sp. , H. \ c. Th. Sev 0 0 1 106 2 0 j 1 92 4 0 2 1 78 6 0 3 1 65 I 0 < 1 51 3 0 5 1 37 5 0 6 1 24 0 0 7 1 10 2 0 8 1 1 J 6 4 0 9 0 102 6 o 10 0 89 1 0 11 0 75 3 0 12 0 61 5 o 13 0 48 0 0 14 0 34 2 0 15 0 20 4 0 16 0 6 6 0 16 1 113 1 0 17 1 99 3 0 18 1 85 5 1 4 0 68 4 1 13 1 51 3 1 23 0 34 2 2 8 1 17 1 2 18 0 0 0 3 3 0 102 6 3 12 1 85 5 3 22 0 68 4 4 7 1 51 3 4 17 0 34 2 5 2 1 17 1 5 12 0 0 0 Sev. 5 3 1 6 4 2 0 5 3 1 6 4 2 0 5 3 1 6 4 2 3 4 5 6 0 1 2 o 4 5 6 0 28 LINEN WEAVER’S 1 2 Porters. 1 3 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev. Sp. 11. c. Th. Sev 1 0 1 0 6 6 0 1 0 '27 3 2 0 2 0 13 5 0 2 0 54 6 8 0 3 0 20 4‘ 0 n 0 82 2 4 0 4 0 27 3 0 4 0 109 5 5 0 5 0 34 r* 0 5 1 17 1 6 0 6 0 41 1 0 6 1 4 4 4 7 0 7 0 48 0 0 7 1 72 0 8 0 8 0 54 6 0 8 1 99 3 9 0 9 0 61 5 0 10 0 6 6 10 0 10 0 68 4 0 1 1 0 34 2 11 0 11 0 75 3 0 12 0 61 5 12 0 12 0 82 2 0 13 0 89 1 13 0 13 0 89 1 0 14 0 116 4 14 0 14 0 96 0 0 15 1 24 0 15 0 15 0 102 6 0 16 1 51 3 16 0 16 0 109 5 0 17 1 78 6 17 0 17 0 1 16 4 0 18 1 106 2 18 0 18 1 3 3 0 20 0 13 5 19 0 19 1 10 2 0 21 0 41 1 20 0 20 1 17 1 0 22 0 68 4 30 1 6 1 8 5 5 1 9 0 3 02 6 40 1 17 0 34 o 1 20 1 1 7 1 50 2 3 0 102 6 o 7 1 51 3 60 2 13 1 51 3 2 38 1 85 5 70 3 0 0 0 0 8 6 0 0 0 80 S 10 0 68 4 3 17 0 34 2 90 3 20 1 17 1 4 4 0 68 4 100 4 6 1 85 5 4 15 0 102 6 110 4 17 0 34 2 5 2 1 17 1 120 5 3 0 102 6 5 13 1 51 3 130 5 5 1 51 3 6 0 1 85 5 HO 6 0 0 0 0 C 12 0 0 O ASSISTANT. 2 ® Ells. Sp. 14 Porters. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp . H 300 . C. Th. S( 1 0 1 0 48 0 0 1 0 68 4 2 0 2 0 96 0 0 o l 17 1 3 0 3 1 24 0 0 3 i 85 5 4 0 4 1 72 0 0 5 0 34 2 5 0 6 0 0 0 0 6 0 102 6 6 0 7 0 48 0 0 7 1 51 3 7 0 8 0 96 0 0 9 0 0 0 8 0 9 1 24 0 0 10 0 68 4 9 0 10 1 72 0 0 11 1 17 1 10 0 12 0 0 0 0 12 1 85 5 11 0 13 0 48 0 0 14 0 34 2 12 0 14 0 96 0 0 15 0 102 6 13 0 15 1 24 0 0 16 1 51 3 14 0 16 1 72 0 0 18 0 0 0 15 0 18 0 0 0 0 19 0 68 4 16 0 19 0 48 0 0 20 1 17 1 17 0 20 0 96 0 0 21 1 85 5 18 0 21 1 24 0 0 23 0 54 2 19 0 22 1 72 0 1 0 0 102 6 20 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 51 3 80 1 12 0 0 0 1 14 1 17 1 40 2 0 0 0 0 2 3 0 102 6 50 2 12 0 0 0 2 16 0 68 4 60 3 0 0 0 0 8 5 0 34 2 70 3 12 0 0 0 o o 18 0 0 0 80 4 0 0 0 0 4 6 ] 85 5 90 4 12 0 0 0 4 19 1 51 S 100 5 0 0 0 0 5 8 1 17 1 1 10 5 12 0 0 0 5 21 0 102 6 120 6 0 0 0 0 6 JO 0 68 4 180 6 12 0 0 0 6 23 0 34 2 140 7 0 0 0 0 4 12 0 0 0 30 LINEN WEAVER’S Ells. Sp. 16 Porters. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. 17 Porters. II. C. Th. Sev 1 0 l 0 89 1 0 1 0 109 5 2 0 2 1 58 2 0 2 1 99 3 3 0 4 0 27 3 0 4 0 89 1 4 0 5 0 116 4 0 5 1 78 6 5 0 6 1 85 5 0 7 0 68 4 6 0 8 0 84 6 o 8 1 58 2 7 0 9 1 24 0 0 10 0 48 0 8 0 10 1 113 1 0 11 1 37 5 9 0 12 0 82 2 0 13 0 27 3 10 0 13 1 51 3 0 14 1 17 1 11 0 15 0 20 4 o 16 0 6 6 32 0 16 0 109 5 0 17 0 116 4 15 0 17 1 78 6 0 18 1 106 2 14 0 19 0 48 O 0 20 0 96 0 15 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 1 85 5 16 0 21 1 106 2 o 23 0 75 3 17 0 23 0 75 3 1 0 1 65 1 18 1 0 1 44 4 1 2 0 54 6 19 1 2 0 13 5 1 3 1 44 4 20 1 3 0 102 6 1 5 0 34 2 30 1 17 0 34 2 1 19 1 51 3 40 2 6 1 85 5 2 10 0 68 4 50 2 20 1 17 1 3 0 1 85 5 60 3 10 0 68 4 3 15 0 102 6 70 4 0 0 0 0 4 6 0 0 0 80 4 13 1 59 3 4 20 1 17 1 90 5 3 0 102 6 5 11 0 S4 2 100 5 17 0 34 2 6 1 1 51 3 110 6 6 1 CO 5 6 16 0 60 4 2 20 6 20 1 17 1 7 6 1 85 5 130 7 10 0 168 4 7 21 0 102 6 140 8 0 0 0 0 8 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT. . 31 18 Porters. 19 P6rters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev» Sp, . H. c. Th. Se¥ l 0 1 i 10 2 0 1 1 30 6 2 0 3 0 20 4 0 3 0 61 5 3 0 4 l 30 6 0 4 i 92 4 4 0 6 0 41 1 0 6 i 3 3 5 0 7 1 51 3 0 8 0 34 2 6 0 9 0 61 5 0 9 1 65 1 7 0 10 1 72 0 0 11 0 96 O 3 0 12 0 82 2 0 13 0 6 6 9 0 13 1 92 4 0 14 1 37 5 10 0 15 0 102 6 0 36 0 68 4- 2 1 0 16 1 113 1 0 17 1 99 3: 12 0 18 1 3 5 0 19 1 10 2 13 0 20 0 13 5 0 21 0 41 1 24 0 21 1 24 0 1 23 1 72 O 15 0 23 0 34 2 1 0 0 102 6 26 1 0 1 44 4 1 2 0 13 5, 17 1 2 0 54 6 1 3 1 44 4 18 1 3 1 65 1 1 5 0 75 3 19 1 5 0 75 3 1 6 1 106 2 20 1 6 1 85 5 1 8 1 17 1 - 30 1 22 0 68 4 2 0 1 85 5 40 o +* 13 1 51 3 2 17 0 54 2 50 3 5 0 34 2 3 9 0 102 6 60 3 20 1 17 l 4 1 1 51 3 70 4 12 0 0 0 4 18 0 0 O 80 5 3 0 102 6 5 10 0 68 4, 90 5 18 1 85 5 6 2 1 17 1. 100 6 10 0 68 4 6 18 1 85 5 110 7 1 1 51 3 7 11 0 34 2 120 7 17 0 34 2 8 3 0 102 6 130 8 8 1 17 1 8 19 1 51 3 HO > 0 0 0 0 9 12 0 0 0 32 LINEN WEAVER’S 400 21 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. , H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 1 l 51 3 0 1 1 72 0 2 0 3 0 102 6 0 -3 1 24 0 3 0 5 0 34 2 0 5 0 96 0 4 0 6 1 85 5 0 7 0 48 0 5 0 8 1 17 i 0 9 0 0 0 6 0 10 0 68 4 0 10 1 72. iO 7 0 12 0 0 0 0 12 1 24 0 8 0 13 1 51 3 0 14 0 96 0 9 0 15 0 102 6 0 16 0 48 0 10 0 17 0 34 2 0 IS 0 0 0 11 0 18 1 85 5 0 19 1 72 0 12 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 1 24 0 13 0_ 22 0 68 4 0 23 0 96 0 14 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 0 43 0 15 1 1 1 51 3 1 3 0 0 0 1 6 1 3 0 102 6 I 4 1 72 0 17 1 5 0 34 2 1 6 1 24 0 18 1 6 1 85 5 1 *8 0 96 0 19 1 8 1 17 1 1 10 0 • 48 0 20 1 10 0 68 4 1 12 0 0 0 30 2 3 0 102 6 2- 6 0 0 0 40 2 20 1 17 1 3 0 0 0 0 50 3 13 1 51 3 3 18 0 0 0 60 4 6 l 85 5 4 12 0 0 0 70 5 0 0 0 0 5 6 0 0 0 80 5 17 0 34 2 6 0 0 0 0 90 6 10 0 68 4 6 18 0 0 0 100 7 3 0 102 6 *7 $ 12 0 0 0 1 10 7 20 1 17 1 8 6 0 0 0 120 8 13 1 51 3 9 0 0 0 0 130 9 6 1 85 5 9 18 0 0 0 1 40 10 0 0 0 0 10 12 0 f 0 0 ASSISTANT S3 22 Porters. 23 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev* Sp. H. c. Th. Sev l 0 1 1 92 4 0 1 1 113 i 2 0 3 1 65 1 0 3 1 106 2 3 0 5 1 37 5 0 5 1 99 3 4 0 7 1 10 2 x 0 7 1 92 4 5 0 9 0 102 6 0 9 1 85 5 6 0 11 0 75 3 0 11 1 78 6 7 0 13 0 48 0 o 13 1 72 0 8 0 15 0 20 4 0 15 1 65 1 9 0 16 1 113 1 0 17 1 58 2 10 0 18 1 85 5 0 19 1 51 S 11 0 20 1 58 2 0 21 1 44 4 12 0 22 1 30 6 0 23 1 37 5 13 1 0 1 3 3 1 1 1 SO 6 14 1 2 0 96 0 1 3 1 24 0 15 1 4 0 68 4 1 5 I 17 1 16 1 6 0 41 1 1 7 1 10 2 17 i 8 0 13 5 1 9 1 3 3 18 1 9 1 106 2 ,1 11 0 116 4 19 1 11 1 78 6 1 13 o 109 5 20 1 13 1 51 3 1 15 0 102 6 SO 2 8 1 17 1 2 • 11 o 34 2 40 3 3 0 102 6 3 6 1 85 5 50 3 22 0 68 4 4 2 1 17 1 60 4 17 0 34 2 4 22 0 68 4 70 5 12 0 0 0 5 13 0 0 0 80 6 6 1 85 5 6 13 1 51 3 90 7 1 1 51 3 7 9 0 102 6 100 7 20 1 17 1 8 5 0 34 2 110 8 15 0 102 6 9 . 0 1 85 5 120 9 10 0 68 4 9 20 1 17 1 130 10 5 0 34 2 10 16 0 68 4 140 .11 0 0 0 0 11 12 0 0 0 1 E 34 ; LINEN WEAVER’S Ells. 24 Porters. Sp* H. C. Th* Sew Sp. 500 H. C. Th. Se\r i 0 2 0 13 5 0 2 O 34 2 2 o 4 0 27 3 0 4 0 68 4 3 0 6 0 41 1 0 6 0 102 6 4 0 8 0 54 6 0 8 1 17 1 5 0 10 0 68 4 0 10 1 51 3 6 0 12 0 82 2. © 12 1 85 5 7 0 14 0 96 o © 15 P 0 © 8 o 16 o 109 5 0 17 © 34 2 9 ' 0 18 1 3 3 0 19 0 68 4 10 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 0 102 6 11 0 22 1 30 6 0 23 1 17 1 12 1 0 1 44 4 1 1 1 51 3 IS 1 2 1 58 2 1 3 1 85 5 14 1 4 1 72 O 1 6 o 0 0 15 1 6 1 85 5 1 8 0 34 2 36 1 8 1 99 3 1 10 o 68 4 17 1 10 1 113 1 1 12 0 102 6 18 1 IS 0 6 6 1 14 1 17 1 19 1 15 0 20 4 1 16 1 51 3 20 1 17 0 34 2 1 18 1 85 5 30 2 13 1 51 3 2 16 0 68 4 40 3 10 o 68 4 3 13 1 51 3 50 4 6 1 85 5 4 11 0 34 2 60 5 3 0 102 6 5 8 1 17 1 70 6 0 0 0 0 6 6 0 0 © 80 6 20 3 .17 1 7 3 0 102 6 90 7 17 0 34 2 8 © 1 85 5 100 8 13 1 51 3 8 22 0 68 4 110 9 10 0 68 4 9 19 1 51 3 120 10 6 1 85 5 10 17 0 34 2 3 30 11 3 0 102 6 11 14 1 17 1 140 12 0 0 0 0 12 12 0 0 a ASSISTANT, 35 26 Porters. JEIis. Sp. H. C. Th. i 0 2 0 54 2 © 4 0 109 3 0 6 1 44 4 0 8 1 99 5 0 11 0 34 6 0 13 0 89 7 0 15 1 24 8 0 17 1 78 9 0 20 0 13 10 0 22 0 68 11 1 0 1 3 12 1 2 1 58 13 1 4 1 113 14 1 7 0 48 15 1 9 d 102 16 1 11 i 37 17 1 13 i 92 18 1 16 0 27 19 1 18 0 82 20 1 20 1 17 30 2 18 1 85 40 s 17 0 34 50 4 15 0 102 60 5 13 1 51 70 6 12 0 0 80 7 10 0 68 90 8 8 1 17 100 9 6 I 85 110 10 5 0 34 120 11 3 0 102 130 12 1 1 51 140 13 0 0 0 27 Porters. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev 0 2 0 75 3 0 4 i 30 6 0 6 i 106 2 0 9 0 61 S 0 11 1 17 1 0 13 1 92 4 0 16 0 48 0 0 18 1 3 % 0 20 1 78 6 0 23 0 5 4 2 1 1 0 109 5 1 3 1 65 1 1 6 0 20 4 1 8 0 96 0 1 10 1 51 5 1 13 0 6 6 1 15 0 82 2 1 17 1 37 5 1 19 1 113 1 1 22 0 68 4 2 21 0 102 6 3 20 1 17 1 4 19 1 51 3 5 18 1 85 5 6 18 0 O 0 7 17 0 84 2 8 16 0 68 4 9 15 0 102 6 10 14 1 17 1 11 13 1 51 8 12 12 1 85 5. 13 12 0 0 0 Sev« 6 5 4 S 2 1 0 6 5 4 3 2 1 O 6 5 4 3 2 1 5 2 6 3 ■0 4 1 5 2 6 3 0 56 LINEN WEAVER S 28 Porters. 29 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 2 0 96 0 0 2 0 116 4 2 0 4 i 72 0 0 4 i 113 1 3 0 7 0 48 0 0 7 0 109 5 4 0 9 1 24 0 0 9 i 106 2 5 0 12 0 0 0 0 12 0 102 6 6 0 14 0 96 0 0 14 1 99 3 7 0 16 1 72 0 0 17 0 96 0 8 0 19 0 48 0 0 19 1 92 4 9 0 21 1 24 0 0 22 0 89 1 10 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 85 5 11 1 2 0 96 0 1 3 0 82 2 12 1 4 1 72 0 1 5 1 78 6 13 1 7 0 48 0 1 8 0 75 3 14 1 9 1 24 0 1 10 1 72 0 15 1 12 0 0 0 1 13 0 68 4 16 1 14 0 96 0 i 15 1 65 1 17 1 16 1 72 0 1 18 0 61 5 18 I 19 0 48 0 1 20 1 58 2 19 1 21 1 24 0 1 23 0 54 6 20 2 0 0 0 0 2 1 1 51 3 30 3 0 0 0 0 3 2 1 17 1 40 4 0 0 0 0 4 3 0 102 6 50 5 0 0 0 0 5 4 0 68 4 60 6 0 0 0 0 6 5 0 34 2 70 7 0 0 0 0 7 6 0 0 0 80 8 0 0 0 0 8 6 1 85 5 90 9 0 0 0 0 9 7 1 51 3 100 10 0 0 0 0 10 8 1 17 1 110 11 0 0 0 0 11 9 0 102 6 120 12 0 0 0 0 12 10 0 68 4 130 13 0 0 0 0 13 11 0 34 2 HO 14 0 0 0 0 14 12 0 0 0 iUDi 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 00 10 20 30 ASSISTANT 37 600 31 Porters. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. H. c. Th 0 Sev 0 2 i 17 1 ‘ 0 2 1 37 5 0 5 0 34 2 0 5 0 75 3 0 7 i 51 3 0 7 i 113 l 0 10 0 68 4 0 10 i 30 6 0 12 1 85 5 0 13 0 68 4 0 15 0 102 6 0 15 1 106 2 0 18 0 0 0 0 18 1 24 0 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 0 61 5 0 23 0 34 2 0 23 1 99 3 1 1 1 51 3 1 2 1 17 1 1 4 0 68 4 1 5 0 54 6 1 6 1 85 5 1 7 1 92 4 1 9 0 102 6 1 10 1 10 2 1 12 0 0 0 1 13 o 48 0 1 14 1 17 1 1 15 1 85 5 1 17 0 34 2 1 18 1 3 s 1 19 0 51 3 1 21 0 41 1 1 22 0 68 4 1 23 1 78 6 2 0 1 85 5 2 2 0 116 4 2 3 0 102 6 _ 2 5 0 34 2 3 5 0 34 2 3 7 1 51 3 4 6 I 85 5 4 10 0 68 4 5 8 1 17 1 5 12 1 85 5 6 10 0 68 4 6 15 0 102 6 7 12 0 0 0 7 18 0 0 0 8 15 1 51 3 8 20 1 17 1 9 15 0 102 6 9 23 0 54 2 10 17 0 34 2 11 1 1 51 3 11 18 1 85 5 12 4 0 68 4 12 20 1 17 1 IS 6 1 85 5 15 22 0 68 4 14 9 0 102 6 15 0 0 0 0 15 12 0 0 0 38 LINEN WEAVER’S 32 Porters. 33 Porters. Elis. Sp. H. ( D. Th. : 3ev. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 2 i 58 2 0 2 1 78 6 2 0 5 0 116 4 0 5 1 37 5 S 0 8 0 54 6 0 8 0 116 4 4 0 10 1 113 1 0 11 0 75 3 5 0 13 1 51 3 0 14 0 34 2 6 0 16 0 109 5 0 16 1 113 1 7 0 19 0 48 0 0 19 1 72 0 8 0 21 1 106 2 0 22 1 30 6 9 1 0 1 44 4 1 1 0 109 5 10 1 3 0 102 6 1 4 0 68 4 11 1 6 0 41 1 1 7 0 27 3 12 1 8 1 99 3 1 9 1 106 2 13 1 11 1 37 5 1 12 1 65 1 14 1 14 0 96 0 1 15 1 24 0 15 1 17 0 34 2 1 18 0 102 6 16 1 19 1 92 4 1 21 0 61 5 17 1 22 1 30 6 2 0 0 20 4 18 2 1 0 89 1 2 2 1 99 3 19 2 4 0 27 3 2 5 1 58 2 20 2 6 1 85 5 2 8 1 17 1 30 3 10 0 68 4 3 12 1 85 5 40 4 13 1 51 3 4 17 0 34 2 50 5 17 0 34 2 5 21 0 102 6 60 6 20 1 17 1 7 1 1 51 3 70 8 0 0 0 0 8 6 0 0 0 80 9 3 0 102 6 9 10 0 68 4 90 10 6 1 85 5 10 14 1 17 1 100 11 10 0 68 4 11 18 1 85 5 110 12 13 1 51 3 12 23 0 34 2 120 13 17 0 34 2 14 3 0 102 6 130 14 20 1 17 1 15 7 1 51 3 140 16 0 0 0 0 16 12 0 0 0 . ASSISTANT. 39 Ells. 34 Porters. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. 700 H. €. Th. Sev 1 0 2 1 99 3 0 3 1 0 0 0 2 0 5 1 78 6 0 6 0 0 0 3 0 8 1 58 2 0 9 0 0 0 4 0 11 1 37 5 0 12 0 0 0 5 0 14 1 17 1 0 15 0 0 0 6 0 17 0 116 4 0 18 0 0 0 7 0 20 0 96 0 0 21 0 0 0 3 0 23 0 75 3 1 0 0 0 0 9 1 2 0 54 6 1 3 0 0 0 10 1 5 0 34 2 1 6 0 0 0 11 1 8 0 13 5 1 9 0 0 0 12 1 10 1 113 1 1 12 0 0 0 13 1 13 1 92 4 1. 15 0 0 0 14 1 16 1 72 0 1 18 0 0 0 25 1 39 1 51 3 1 21 0 0 0 16 1 22 1 30 6 2 0 0 0 0 17 2 1 1 10 2 2 5 0 0 0 18 . 2 4 0 109 5 2 6 0 0 0 19 2 7 0 89 1 2 9 0 0 0 20 2 10 0 68 4 2 12 0 0 0 so 3 15 0 102 6 3 18 0 0 0 40 4 20 1 17 1 5 0 0 0 © 50 6 1 1 51 3 6 6 0 0 0 60 7 6 I 85 5 7 12 0 0 0 70 8 12 0 0 0 8 18 0 0 0 80 9 17 0 34 2 10 0 0 0 • 0 90 10 22 0 68 4 11 6 0 0 o 100 12 3 0 102 6 12 12 0 0 0 110 13 8 1 17 1 13 18 0 0 0 120 14 13 1 51 3 15 0 0 0 0 130 15 18 1 85 5 16 6 0 0 0 140 17 0 0 0 0 17 12 0 0 0 40 LINEN WEAVER^ <• Ells. Sp. 36 Porters. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp 37 Porters. . H. C. Th. Sev l 0 3 0 20 4 0 3 0 41 1 2 0 6 0 41 1 0 6 0 82 2 3 0 9 0 61 5 0 9 1 3 3 4 0 12 0 82 2 0 12 1 44 4 5 0 15 0 102 6 0 15 1 85 5 6 0 18 1 3 3 0 19 0 6 6 7 0 21 1 24 0 0 22 0 48 0 8 1 0 1 44 4 1 1 0 89 i 9 1 3 1 65 1 1 4 1 10 2 10 1 6 1 85 5 1 7 1 51 3 11 1 9 1 106 2 1 10 1 92 4 12 1 13 0 6 6 1 14 0 13 5 33 1 16 0 27 3 1 17 0 54 6 14 1 19 0 48 0 1 20 0 96 0 15 1 22 0 68 4 1 23 1 17 1 16 2 1 0 89 1 2 2 1 58 2 17 2 4 0 109 5 2 5 1 99 3 18 2 7 1 10 2 2 9 0 20 4 19 2 10 1 30 6 2 12 0 61 5 20 2 13 1 51 3 2 15 0 102 6 30 3 20 1 17 1 3 23 0 34 2 40 5 3 0 102 6 5 6 1 85 5 50 6 10 0 68 4 6 14 1 17 1 60 7 17 0 34 * 2 7 22 0 68 4 70 9 0 0 0 0 9 6 0 0 0 80 10 6 1 85 5 10 13 1 51 3 90 11 13 1 51 3 11 21 0 102 6 100 12 20 1 17 1 13 5 0 34 2 110 14 3 0 102 6 14 12 1 85 5 120 15 10 0 68 4 15 20 1 17 1 130 16 17 0 34 2 17 4 0 68 4 140 18 0 0 0 0 18 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 58 Porters. 39 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. c. Th. 1 Sev. Sp. H. c* Th. Sev 1 0 3 0 61 5 0 8 0 82 2 2 0 0 i 3 3 0 6 i 44 4 3 0 9 i 65 1 0 10 0 0 0 4 0 13 0 0 6 0 13 0 89 1 5 0 16 0 68 4 0 10 1 51 5 6 0 19 I 10 2 0 20 0 13 5 7 ' 0 22 1 72 0 0 23 0 96 0 8 1 2 0 13 5 1 2 1 58 2 9 I 5 0 75 3 1 0 0 20 4 10 1 8 1 17 1 1 9 0 102 6 11 1 11 1 78 0 1 12 1 05 1 12 1 15 0 20 4 1 16 0 27 3 13 1 18 0 08 2 1 19 0 109 5 14 1 21 1 24 0 1 22 1 72 0 15 2 0 1 85 5 2 2 0 34 2 16 2 4 0 27 3 2 5 0 116 4 17 2 7 0 89 1 2 8 1 78 0 18 2 10 1 SO 6 o 11 0 41 1 19 .2 13 1 92 4 2 15 1 3 3 20 2 17 0 34 2 2 18 1 85 5 30 4 1 1 51 3 4 4 0 68 4 40 5 10 0 68 4 5 13 1 51 3 50 6 18 1 85 5 0 23 0 34 2 60 8 3 0 102 0 ,8 8 1 17 1 70 9 12 0 0 0 9 18 0 0 0 80 10 20 1 17 1 11 3 0 102 0 90 12 5 0 34 2 12 12 1 85 5 100 13 13 1 51 3 13 22 0 08 4 110 14 22 0 68 4 15 7 1 51 3 120 16 6 1 85 5 16 17 0 34 2 130 17 15 0 102 0 18 2 1 17 1. 140 19 0 0 0 0 19 12 0 0 0 F % 42 tlNEN WEAVER’S 800 41 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Scv. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev l 0 3 0 102 6 0 5 1 3 3 2 0 6 i 85 5 0 7 0 6 6 3 0 10 0 68 4 0 10 l 10 2 4 0 15 1 51 3 0 14 0 13 5 5 0 17 0 34 2 0 17 1 17 1 6 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 0 20 4 7 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 24 0 8 1 3 0 102 6 1 4 0 27 3 9 1 6 1 85 5 1 7 1 30 6 10 1 10 0 68 4 1 11 0 34 2 11 1 13 1 51 3 1 14 1 37 5 12 1 17 0 34 2 1 18 0 41 1 13 1 20 1 17 1 1 21 1 44 4 14 2 0 0 0 0 2 1 0 48 0 15 2 3 0 102 6 2 4 1 51 3 16 2 6 1 85 5 2 8 0 54 6 17 2 10 0 68 4 2 11 i 58 2 18 2 13 1 51 3 2 15 0 61 5 19 2 17 0 34 2 2 18 1 65 1 20 2 20 1 17 1 2 22 0 68 4 30 4 6 1 85 5 4 9 0 102 6' 40 5 17 0 54 2 5 20 1 17 1 50 7 3 0 102 6 7 7 1 51 3 60 8 17 1 51 3 8 18 1 85 5 70 10 0 0 0 0 10 6 0 0 0 - SO 11 10 0 68 4 SI 17 0 34 2 90 12 20 1 17 1 13 4 0 68 4 100 14 6 1 85 5 14 15 0 102 6 110 15 17 0 34 2 16 2 1 17 1 120 17 3 0 102 6 17 13 1 51 3 130 18 13 1 51 3 19 0 1 85 5 140 20 0 0 q 0 20 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANTS 43 42 Porters. 43 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp* H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 3 i 24 0 0 3 3 44 4 2 0 7 0 48 0 0 7 0 89 1 3 0 10 i 72 0 0 11 0 13 5 4 0 14 0 96 0 0 14 1 58 2 5 0 18 0 0 0 0 18 0 102 6 6 0 21 1 24 0 0 22 0 27 3 7 1 1 0 48 0 1 I 1 72 0 8 1 4 1 72 0 r JL 5 0 116 4 9 1 8 0 96 0 1 9 0 41 1 10 1 12 0 0 0 1 12 1 85 5 11 1 15 1 24 0 1 16 ] 10 2 12 1 19 0 48 0 1 20 0 54 6 13 1 22 1 72 0 1 23 1 99 3 14 2 2 0 96 0 2 3 1 24 0 15 2 6 0 0 0 2 7 0 68 4 16 2 9 1 24 0 2 10 1 113 1 17 2 13 0 48 0 2 14 1 37 5 18 2 16 1 72 0 2 18 0 82 2 19 2 20 0 96 0 2 22 0 6 6 20 3 0 0 0 0 3 1 I 51 3 30 4 12 0 0 0 4 14 1 17 l 40 6 0 0 0 0 6 3 0 102 6 50 7 12 0 0 0 7 16 0 68 4 60 9 0 0 0 0 9 5 0 34 2 70 10 12 0 0 0 10 18 0 0 0 80 12 0 0 0 0 12 6 1 85 5 90 13 32 0 0 0 13 19 1 51 3 100 15 0 0 0 0 15 8 1 17 1 110 16 12 0 0 o N 16 21 0 102 6 120 18 0 0 0 0 18 10 0 68 4 130 19 12 0 0 0 19 23 0 34 ■ o HO 21 0 0 0 0 21 12 0 0 0 44 , LINEN WEAVER’S 44 Porters. 900 Elis. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev. Sp, , H. c. Th. Sev l 0 3 1 65 l 0 3 1 85 5 2 0 7 1 10 2 0 7 1 51 3 3 0 11 0 75 3 0 11 1 17 1 4 0 15 0 20 4 0 15 0 102 6 5 0 18 i 85 5 0 19 0 68 4 6 0 22 i 30 6 0 23 0 34 2 7 1 2 0 96 0 1 3 0 0 0 8 1 6 0 41 1 1 6 1 85 5 9 1 9 1 106 2 1 10 1 51 3 10 1 13 1 51 3 1 34 1 17 1 11 1 17 0 116 4 1 18 0 102 6 12 1 21 0 61 5 1 22 0 68 4 13 2 1 0 6 6 2 2 0 34 2 14 2 4 1 72 0 2 6 0 0 0 15 2 8 1 17 1 2 9 1 85 5 16 2 12 >0 82 2 2 13 1 51 3 17 2 16 0 27 3 2 17 1 17 3 18 2 19 1 92 4 2 21 0 102 6 19 2 23 1 87 5 3 1 0 68 4 20 3 8 0 102 6 3 5 0 34 2 30 4 17 0 34 2 4 19 1 51 3 40 6 6 1 85 5 6 1.0 0 68 4 50 7 20 1 17 1 8 0 1 85 5 60 9 10 0 68 4 9 15 0 102 6 70 11 0 0 0 0 11 6 0 0 0 80 12 13 1 51 3 12 20 1 17 1 90 14 8 0 102 6 14 11 0 34 2 100 15 17 0 34 2 16 1 1 51 3 110 17 6 1 85 5 17 16 0 68 4 120 18 20 1 17 1 19 6 1 85 5 130 20 10 0 68 4 20 21 0 102 6 140 22 0 0 0 0 22 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT. 45 46 Porters. Ells. Sp. H* C. Th 0 1 0 3 i 106 2 0 7 i 92 3 o 11 i 78 4 0 15 i 65 5 0 19 i 51 6 0 23 i 37 7 1 3 i 24 8 1 7 i 10 9 1 11 o 116 10 1 15 0 102 11 1 19 0 89 ■ 12 1 23 0 75 13 2 3 0 61 14 2 7 0 48 15 2 11 0 34 16 a 15 0 20 17 2 19 0 6 18 . 2 22 1 113 19 3 2 1 99 20 3 6 1 85 30 4 22 0 68 40 6 13 1 51 50 8 5 0 34 60 9 20 1 17 70 11 12 0 0 80 13 3 0 102 90 14 18 I 85 100 16 10 0 68 110 18 1 I 51 120 19 17 0 34 130 21 8 1 17 HO 23 0 0 0 47 Porters. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev 0 4 0 6 6 0 8 0 13 5 0 12 0 20 4 0 16 0 27 3 0 20 0 84 2 1 0 0 41 1 1 4 0 48 0 1 8 0 54 6 1. 12 0 61 5 I 16 0 68 4 1 20 0 75 8 2 0 0 82 2 2 4 0 89 I 2 8 0 96 0 2 12 0 102 6 2 16 0 109 5 2 20 0 116 4 3 0 1 3 3 3 4 1 20 2 3 8 1 17 1 5 0 1 85 5 6 17 0 34 2 8 3 0 102 6 10 1 1 51 3 11 18 0 0 0 13 10 0 68 4 15 2 1 17 1 16 18 1 85 5 18 11 0 34 2 20 3 0 102 6 21 19 1 51 3 23 12 0 0 0 Sev. 2 4 6 1 S 5 0 2 4 6 1 3 5 0 2 4 6 I 3 5 4 S 2 1 0 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 46 LINEN WEAVER’S 48 Porters. 49 Porters. Ells. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev. Bp. H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 4 0 27 3 0 4 0 48 0 2 0 8 0 54 6 0 8 0 96 0 3 0 12 0 82 2 0 12 i 24 0 4 0 16 0 109 5 0 16 i 72 0 5 0 20 1 17 1 0 21 0 0 0 6 1 0 1 44 4 1 1 0 48 0 7 1 4 1 72 0 1 5 0 96 0 8 1 8 1 99 3 1 9 1 24 0 9 1 13 0 6 6 1 13 1 72 0 10 1 17 0 34 2 1 18 0 0 0 11 1 21 0 61 5 1 22 0 48 0 12 2 1 0 89 1 2 2 0 96 0 13 2 5 0 116 4 2 6 1 24 0 14 2 9 1 24 0 2 10 1 72 0 15 2 13 1 51 3 2 15 0 0 0 16 2 17 1 78 6 2 19 0 48 0 17 2 21 1 106 2 2 23 0 96 0 18 3 2 0 13 5 3 3 1 24 0 19 3 6 0 41 1 3 7 1 72 0 20 3 10 0 68 4 3 12 0 0 0 30 5 3 o 102 6 5 6 0 0 0 40 6 20 1 17 1 7 0 0 0 0 50 8 13 1 51 3 8 18 0 0 0 60 10 6 1 85 5 10 12 0 0 0 70 12 0 0 0 0 12 6 0 0 0 80 13 17 0 34 2 14 0 0 . 0 0 90 15 10 0 68 4 15 18 0 0 0 100 17 3 0 102 6 17 12 0 0 0 110 18 20 1 17 1 19 6 0 0 0 120 20 13 1 51 3 21 0 0 0 0 130 22 6 1 85 5 22 18 0 0 0 HO 24 0 0 0 0 24 * J 2 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 47 1000 Ells. Sp. H* c. Th. l 0 4 0 68 2 0 8 i 17 3 0 12 i 85 4 0 17 0 34 5 0 21 0 102 6 1 1 I 51 7 1 6 0 0 8 1 10 0 68 9 1 14 1 17 10 1 18 1 85 11 1 23 0 34 12 2 3 0 102 13 2 7 1 51 14 2 12 0 0 15 2 16 0 68 16 2 20 1 17 17 3 0 1 85 18 . 3 8 0 34 19 3 9 0 102 20 3 13 1 51 80 5 8 , 1 17 40 7 3 ' 0 102 50 8 22 0 68 60 10 17 0 34 70 12 12 0 0 80 14 6 1 85 90 16 1 1 51 100 17 20 I 17 110 19 15 0 102 120 21 10 0 68 130 23 5 0 54 140 25 0 0 0 51 Porters. Sp. H. G. Th. Sev 0 4 0 89 1 0 8 i 58 2 0 13 0 27 3 0 17 0 116 4 0 21 0 85 5 1 2 0 54 6 1 6 1 24 0 1 10 1 113 1 1 15 0 82 2 1 19 1 51 3 2 0 0 20 4 2 4 0 109 5 2 8 1 78 6 . 2 13 0 48 0 2 17 1 17 1 2 21 1 306 2 3 2 0 75 3 3 6 1 44 4 3 11 0 13 5 3 15 0 102 6 5 11 0 54 2 7 6 1 85 5 9 2 1 17 1 10 22 0 68 4 12 18 0 0 0 14 13 1 51 3 16 9 0 102 6 18 5 0 34 2 20 0 1 85 5 21 20 1 17 1 23 16 0 68 4 25 12 0 0 0 Sev. 4 1 5 2 6 3 0 4 1 5 2 6 S 0 4 1 5 2 6 S 1 6 4 2 0 5 3 1 6 4 2 0 48 LINEN WEAVER’S ' ' T '- ' •' -T '■ - ■ ■ — 52 Porters. 53 Porters. Ells. Sp. He c. Th. Sev. Sp. H. c. Th. Sev 1 0 4 0 109 5 0 4 1 10 2 2 0 8 i 99 3 0 9 0 20 4 3 0 13 0 89 1 0 13 l 30 6 4 0 17 i 78 6 0 18 0 41 1 5 0 22 0 68 4 0 22 1 51 3 6 1 2 1 58 2 1 3 0 61 5 7 1 7 0 48 0 1 7 1 72 0 8 1 11 1 37 5 1 12 0 82 2 9 1 16 0 27 3 1 16 1 92 4 10 1 20 1 17 1 1 21 0 102 6 21 2 1 0 6 6 2 1 1 113 1 .22 2 5 0 116 4 2 6 1 3 3 13 2 9 1 106 2 2 11 o 13 5 14 2 14 0 96 0 2 15 1 24 0 15 2 18 1 85 5 2 20 0 34 2 16 2 27 0 75 3 3 0 1 44 4 17 3 3 i 65 1 3 5 0 54 6 18 3 8 0 54 6 3 9 1 65 1 19 3 12 1 44 4 3 14 0 75 3 20 3 17 0 34 2 3 18 1 85 5 30 5 33 1 51 3 5 16 0 68 4 40 7 10 0 68 4 7 13 1 51 3 50 9 6 1 85 5 9 11 0 34 2 60 11 3 0 102 6 11 8 1 17 1 70 13 0 0 0 0 13 6 0 0 0 80 14 20 1 17 1 15 3 0 102 6 90 16 17 0 34 2 17 0 1 85 5 100 18 13 1 51 S 18 22 0 68 4 no 20 10 0 68 4 20 19 1 51 3 120 22 6 1 85 5 22 17 0 34 2 130 24 3 0 102 6 24 14 1 17 1 140 26 0 0 0 0 26 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT. 49 54 Porters. Ills. Sp. H. c. Th. 1 0 4 l so 2 0 9 0 61 3 0 13 i 92 4 0 18 i 3 5 0 23 0 34 6 1 3 1 65 7 1 8 0 96 8 1 13 0 6 9 1 17 1 37 10 1 22 0 68 11 2 2 1 99 12 2 7 1 10 13 2 12 0 41 14 2 16 1 72 15 2 21 0 102 16 3 2 0 13 17 3 6 1 44 18 S 11 0 75 19 3 15 1 10 6 20 3 20 1 17 30 5 18 1 85 40 7 17 0 34 50 9 15 0 102 60 11 13 1 51 70 13 12 0 0 80 15 10 0 68 90 n 8 1 17 100 19 6 1 85 110 21 5 0 34 120 23 S 0 102 ISO 25 1 1 51 140 27 0 0 0 1100 Sp. II. c. Th. Sev 0 4 1 51 3 0 9 0 102 6 0 14 0 34 2 0 18 1 85 5 0 23 1 17 1 1 4 0 68 4 1 9 0 0 O 1 13 1 51 3 1 18 0 102 6 1 23 0 34 a 2 5 1 85 5 2 8 1 17 l 2 IS 0 68 4 18 0 0 0 2 22 1 51 3 8 3 0 102 6 3 8 0 34 2 3 12 1 85 S 3 17 1 17 1 3 CO 0 68 4 5 21 0 102 6 i 20 1 17 1 9 19 1 51 3 11 18 1 85 5 13 18 0 0 O 15 17 0 34 O dkJ 17 16 0 68 4 19 15 0 102 6 21 14 1 17 1 23 15 1 51 3 <> c? a-' .12 1 85 5 J?7 12 ,0 0 0 o Sev. 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 6 5- 4 3 2 1 0 6 5 4 3 a l 5 2 6 3 0 4 1 5 2 6 3 O Gr SG LINEN weaver's fills. • ( Sp. 56 Porters. H. C. Th. Sev. Sp. 57 Porters. H. C. Th. Sev 1 0 4 1 72 0 0 4 1 92 4 2 0 9 1 24 0 0 9 1 65 1 3 0 14 0 96 0 0 14 1 37 5 4 0 19 0 48 0 0 19 1 10 2 5 1 0 0 0 o 1 0 0 102 6 6 1 4 1 72 0 1 5 0 75 3 7 1 9 1 24 0 1 10 0 48 0 8 1 14 0 96 0 1 15 0 20 4 9 1 19 0 48 0 1 19 1 113 1 lo 2 0 0 0 0 2 0 1 85 5 1 1 2 4 1 72 0 2 5 1 58 2 12 2 9 1 24 0 2 10 1 30 6 13 2 14 0 96 0 2 15 1 3 3 14 2 19 0 48 0 2 20 0 96 0 15 S 0 0 0 0 3 1 0 68 4 16 3 4 1 72 0 3 6 0 41 1 17 3 9 1 24 0 3 11 0 13 5 18 3 14 0 96 0 3 15 1 106 2 19 3 19 0 48 0 3 20 1 78 6 20 4 0 0 0 0 4 1 1 51 S 30 6 0 0 0 0 6 2 1 17 1 40 8 0 o 0 0 8 3 0 102 6 50 10 0 0 0 0 10 4 0 68 4 60 12 0 0 0 0 12 5 0 34 2 70 14 0 0 0 0 14 6 0 0 0 80 16 0 0 0 0 16 6 1 85 5 90 18 0 0 0 0 18 7 1 51 S 100 20 0 0 O 0 20 8 1 17 1 110 22 0 0 O 0 22 9 0 102 6 120 24 0 0 0 0 24 10 0 68 4 130 26 0 0 0 0 26 11 0 34 2 140 28 0 0 0 0 28 12 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 58 Porters- Ells. Sp. H. C. Th. l 0 4 i 113 2 0 9 i 106 5 0 14 i 99 4 0 19 i 22 5 1 0 l 85 6 1 5 l 78 7 1 10 i 72 8 1 15 l 65 9 1 20 l 58 10 2 1 i 51 H 2 6 l 44 12 2 11 i 87 15 2 16 l 30 14 2 21 l 24 15 3 2 i 17 16 3 7 l 10 17 3 12 l 3 18 3 17 0 116 19 3 22 0 109 20 4 3 0 102 30 6 5 0 34 40 8 6 1 85 50 10 8 1 17 60 12 10 0 63 70 14 12 0 0 80 16 13 1 51 90 18 15 0 102 100 20 17 0 34 3 10 22 18 1 85 1 20 24 20 1 17 130 26 9 o 0 68 HO 29 0 0 0 \ v 5 9 Porters. Sp- H. c. Th. Sev 0 5 0 13 5 0 10 0 27 O 4.4 0 15 0 41 1 0 20 0 54 6 1 1 0 68 4 1 6 0 82 4> w 1 11 0 96 0 1 16 0 109 5 1 21 1 3 3 2 2 1 17 1 2 7 1 30 6 2 12 1 44 4 o w 17 1 58 2 2 22 1 72 0 3 3 1 85 r D 3 8 1 99 3 3 13 1 113 i 3 19 0 6 6 4 0 0 20 4 4 5 0 34 9 6 7 1 51 3 8 10 0 68 4 10 12 1 85 5 12 15 0 102 6 14 18 0 0 O 16 20 1 17 1 18 23 0 34 o 21 1 9 5 l 8 23 4 0 68 4 25 6 1 85 5 27 9 0 102 6 29 1 6 0 6 2 6 4 6 6 6 3 3 9 0 9 3 9 6 9 9 9 12 4 12 0 12 4 12 8 12 12 12 16 5 15 0 1 5 5 1 5 10 2 5 15 16 0 6 IS 0 18 6 18 12 18 IS 19 4 7 21 0 21 7 21 14 2 2 1 22 8 8 24 0 24 8 £ 4 16 25 4 2 5 12 9 27 0 27 9 27 18 28 7 28 Id 10 SO 0 SO 10 31 0 31 10 32 0 1 1 S3 0 S3 11 34 2 5 4 13 35 4 1 2 S 6 0 36 12 37 4 37 16 38 8 13 29 0 S9 13 40 6 40 19 41 12 14 42 0 42 14 43 8 44 2 44 16 15 45 0 45 3 5 46 10 47 5 48 0 1 6 48 0 48 16 49 12 50 8 _ 51 4 17 51 0 51 17 52 2 4 53 1 l 54 8 38 54 0 54 18 55 16 56 14 57 12 19 57 0 57 19 58 18 59 17 60 16 20 60 0 61 0 62 0 63 0 64 0 2 l 63 0 64 1 65 o £d 66 3 67 4 22 66 0 67 2 68 4 69 6 70 8 23 69 0 70 3 71 6 72 9 7 3 12 24 72 0 73 4 74 8 1 ^ 12 p*> r* 1 o 16 2 5 75 0 76 5 77 10 78 3 5 80 0 26 78 0 79 6 so 12 81 18 S3 4 27 81 0 82 7 83 14 35 1 8 6 8 28 84 0 85 8 86 16 SB 4 89 H 29 87 0 88 9 89 IS 91 7 92 16 SO 90 0 91 10 93 * 0 94 10 96 0 L 3 82 LINEN WEAVER’S 65 Run. 66 Run. 67 Run. 68 Run. 69 Run. B. P. ■& P. s. P. s. P. s. P. s. l 3 5 ? 6 3 7 3 8 3 9 2 6 10 6 12 6 14 6 16 6 18 3 9 15 9 18 10 1 10 4 10 7 4 13 0 13 4 13 8 15 12 13 16 5 16 5 16 10 16 15 17 0 17 5 6 19 10 19 16 20 2 20 8 20 14 7 22 15 23 2 23 9 23 16 24 3 8 26 0 26 8 26 16 27 4 27 12 9 29 5 29 14 30 3 30 12 31 1 10 32 10 33 0 33 10 34 0 34 10 11 35 15 36 6 36 17 37 8 37 19 12 39 0 39 12 40 4 40 16 41 8 13 42 5 42 18 43 11 44 4 44 17 14 45 10 46 4 46 18 47 12 48 6 15 48 15 49 10 50 5 51 0 51 15 16 52 0 52 16 53 12 54 8 55 4 17 55 5 56 2 56 19 57 16 58 13 18 58 10 59 8 60 6 61 4 62 2 19 61 15 62 14 63 13 64 12 65 11 20 65 0 66 0 67 0 68 0 69 0 21 68 5 69 6 70 7 71 8 72 9 22 71 10 72 12 73 14 74 16 75 18 23 74 15 75 18 77 1 78 4 79 7 24 78 0 79 4 80 8 81 12 82 16 25 81 5 82 10 83 15 85 0 86 5 26 84 10 85 16 87 2 88 8 89 14 27 87 15 89 2 90 9 91 16 93 3 28 91 0 92 8 93 16 95 4 96 12 29 94 ; 5 95 4 97 S 98 12 100 l 30 97 10 99 0 100 10 102 0 103 10 / ASSISTANT 83 i^iti 70 Run. 71 Run. 72 Run. 75 Run. 74 Run, B. P. S. p. s. P. <2 o. P. s. P. S. 1 3 10 3 11 3 12 3 IS 3 14 2 7 0 7 2 7 4 7 6 7 8 S 10 10 10 13 10 16 II 19 11 2 4 14 0 14 4 14 8 14 12 14 16 5 17 10 17 15 18 0 18 5 18 10 6 21 0 21 6 21 12 21 18 22 4 7 24 10 24 17 25 4 25 11 25 IS 8 28 0 28 8 28 16 29 4 29 12 9 si 10 31 19 32 8 32 17 S3 6 10 35 0 35 10 36 0 36 10 37 0 1 1 38 10 39 1 39 12 40 8 40 14 12 42 0 42 12 43 4 43 16 44 .8 13 45 10 46 3 46 16 47 9 48 2 14 49 0 49 14 50 8 51 2 51 16 15 52 10- 53 5 54 0 54 15 55 10 16 56 o 56 16 57 12 58 8 59 4 17 59 10 60 17 61 4 62 1 62 18 18 63 0 63 18 64 16 65 7 66 12 19 66 10 67 9 68 8 69 4 70' 6 20 70 0 71 0 72 0 73 0 74 0 21 73 10 74 11 75 12 76 13 77 14 22 77 0 78 2 79 4 80 6 81 8 28 80 10 81 13 82 16 83 19 85 2 24 84 0 85 4 86 8 87 12 88 16 25 87 10 88 15 90 0 91 5 92 10 26 91 0 92 6 93 12 94 18 96 4 27 94 10 95 17 97 4 98 11 99 18 28 98 0 95 8 100 16 102 4 103 12 29 101 10 102 19 104 8" 105 17 107 6 30 105 0 106 10 108 0 109 10 111 0 84 / LINEN WEAVER’S 7 5 Run- 76 Run. 77 Run. 78 Run. 79 Run, B. P. s. P. s. *P. s* P. s. P. s. i s 15 5 16 3 17 s 18 3 19 o 7 10 7 12 7 14 7 16 7 18 3 1 1 5 1 1 8 1 1 11 1 1 14 1 1 17 4 15 0 1 5 4 15 8 15 12 15 16 5 18 15 19 0 19 5 19 10 19 15 6 2 2 3 0 22 16 23 2 23 8 25 14 7 26 5 26 12 26 19 27 6 27 13 8 30 0 30 8 30 16 31 4 31 12 9 33 15 34 4 34 13 35 2 35 11 10 37 10 38 0 38 10 59 0 39 10 1 l 41 5 41 16 4 2 7 42 18 43 9 12 45 0 4 5 12 46 4 46 16 47 8 15 48 1 5 49 8 50 1* 50 14 51 7 1 1 52. 10 53 4 53 18 54 12 55 6 15 56 5 57 0 57 15 58 10 59 - 5 16 . 60 0 60 16 61 12 62 8 63 4 17 63 1 5 6.4 12 65 9 66 6 67 3 18 67 JO 68 8 69 6 70 4 71 2 19 71 5 72 4 73 3 74 2 75 1 £0 75 0 76 0 77 0 78 0 79 0 21 77 15 79 16 80 17 81 18 82 19 22 82 10 88 12 81 14 85 16 86 18 23 86 5 87 8 88 I 1 89 14 90 17 2 1 90 0 91 4 92 8 4f 93 1 2 9 1 16 25 93 15 95 0 96 5 97 10 93 15 28 97 10 98 16 102 2 101 S 102 14 27 101 5 102 12 103 19 105 6 1C 6 13 28 105 0 106 S 107 16 109 4 1 10 12 £9 108 15 1 JO 4 111 13 1 13 2 1 14 1 l W 112 10 U 1 0 115 10 117 0 113 ib S' ' \ ASSISTANT, 85 80 Run. 8 1 Run. 8 2 Run. 85 Run. 8 I Run. B. P. s. P. S. P. & P. s. P. S. i 4 0 4 1 4 2 4 3 4 4 2 8 0 8 2 8 4 8 6 8 8 S 12 0 12 3 32 6 3 2 9 12 12 4 16 0 16 4 16 8 16 12 16 2 6 5 20 0 20 5 20 10 20 15 21 0 6 24 0 24 6 24 12 24 18 25 4 Prr 1 28 0 28 7 28 14 29 1 29 8 8 32 0 32 8 32 16 33 4 33 12 9 56 0 36 9 36 1 8 37 7 87 16 10 40 0 40 10 41 0 41 10 4 2 a 1 l 4 4 0 44 1 1 45 2 45 13 46 4 12 48 0 48 12 49 4 49 3 6 50 8 33 52 0 52 13 53 6 53 19 51 12 14 56 o 56 14 57 8 •5,8 2 58 1.6 1 5 60 0 60 15 61 10 62 5 63 a 16 64 0 64 16 6 5 12 66 8 67 4 17 68 0 68 17 69 14 70 11 71 8 13 72 0 7 2 18 73 16 74 14 75 1‘2 19 76 0 76 J 9 77 18 78 17 79 16 20 80 0 81 0 82 0 83 0 84 0 21 8 1 0 85 1 86 q 87 3 88 4 21 88 0 89 2 90 4 91 6 92 & 23 92 0 9 3 3 94 6 95 9 96 12 21 96 0 97 4 98 8 99 12 100 16 25 100 0 101 5 102 10 1 03 15 105 0 26 104 0 105 6 106 12 107 18 109 4 27 108 0 109 7 110 14 112 1 ] 13 8 28 112 0 3 13 8 I 14 16 1 16 4 117 12 29 1 16 0 1 17 9 1 18 18 120 7 121 16 m 120 0 121 10 123 0 12 1 10 126 0 X 86 LINEN WEAVER’S 85 Run. 8 6 Run. 87 Run. 88 Run. 89 Run. B. P. S. P. s. P. s. P. S. P. S. l 4 5 4 6 4 7 4 8 4 9 2 8 10 8 12 8 14 8 16 8 18 3 12 15 12 18 13* 1 13 4 13 7 4 17 0 17 4 17 8 17 12 17 16 5 21 5 21 10 21 15 22 0 22 5 6 25 10 25 16 26 2 26 8 26 14 7 29 15 30 2 30 9 30 16 31 3 8 34 0 34 8 34 16 35 4 35 12 9 38 5 38 14 39 3 39 12 40 1 10 42 10 43 0 43 10 44 0 44 10 11 46 15 47 6 47 17 48 8 43 19 12 51 0 51 12 52 4 52 16 53 8 13 55 5 55 18 56 11 57 4 57 17 14 ‘ 59 10 60 4 60 18 61 12 62 6 15 6-5 15 64 10 65 5 66 o„ 66 15 16 68 0 68 16 69 12 70 8 71 4 17 72 5 73 2 73 19 74 16 75 13 18 76 10 77 8 78 6 79 4 80 2 19 80 15 81 14 82 13 83 12 84 1 l 20 85 0 86 0 87 0 88 0 89 0 21 89 5 90 6 91 7 92 8 93 9 22 95 10 94 12 95 14 96 16 97 18 23 97 15 98 18 100 1 101 4 102 7 24 102 0 103 4 104 8 105 12 106 16 25 106 5 107 10 10S 15 no P 111 5 26 111 10 111 16 113 2 114 8 0 5 14 27 115 15 116 2 117 9 118 16 120 o 28 120 0 120 8 121 16 123 4 124 12 29 124 5 124 14 126 3 127 12 129 1 30 129 10 129 0 130 10 152 0 133 10 ASSISTANT. 87 90 Run. . 91 Run. 92 Run. 93 Run. 94 Run* B. P. ! S. p. S. P. s. P. s. P. s. 1 4 10 4 11 4 12 4 13 4 14 2 9 0 9 2 9 4 9 6 9 8 3 13 10 13 13 13 16 13 19 14 2 4 18 0 18 4 18 8 18 12 18 16 5 22 10 22 15 23 0 23 5 23 10 6 27 0 27 6 27 12 27 18 28 4 7 31 10 31 17 32 4 32 11 32 18 8 36 0 36 8 36 16 37 4 37 12 9 40 10 40 19 41 8 41 17 42 6 10 45 0 45 10 46 0 46 10 47 0 11 49 10 50 1 50 12 51 3 51 14 12 54 0 54 12 55 4 55 16 56 8 13 58 10 59 3 59 16 60 9 61 2 14 63 0 63 14 64 8 65 2 65 16 15 67 10 68 5 69 0 69 15 70 10 16 72 0 72 16 73 12 74 8 75 4 17 76 10 77 7 78 4 79 1 79 18 18 81 0 81 18 82 16 83 14 84 12 19 85 10 86 9 87 8 88 7 89 6 20 90 0 91 0 92 0 89 0 94 0 21 94 10 95 11 96 12 97 13 98 14 22 99 0 100 2 101 4 102 6 103 8 23 103 10 104 13 105 16 106 19 108 2 24 108 0 109 4 110 8 111 12 112 16 25 1 12 10 113 15 115 0 116 5 117 10 26 117 0 118 6 119 12 120 18 122 4 27 121 10 122 17 124 4 12 5 11 126 18 28 126 0 127 8 128 16 130 4 131 12 29 130 10 131 19 133 8 134 17 136 6 30 135 0 136 10 138 0 139 10 141 0 SB LINEN WEAVER’S 95 Run. 96 Run. 97 Run. 98 Run. 99 Run. K P. s. P. s. P. S. P. s. P. ft l 4 15 4 16 4 17 4 18 4 19 V 2 3 9 10 9 1 2 9 14 9 16 9 15 14 5 14 8 14 1 1 14 14 14 17 4 10 0 19 > 4 19 8 19 12 19 16 5 2 3 15 24 0 24 5 24 ,10 24 1 5 6 28 10 23 16 29 2 29 . 8 29 1 4 V 33 5 S3 12 33 19 34 6 34 15 8 38 0 38 8 38 16 39 4 S9 1 2 9 42 1 5 43 4 4 3 13 44 o 44 1 1 10 48 10 48 0 48 10 '49 0 49 10 l'l 52 5 52 16 53 7 53 1 8 v 54 9 12 57 0 57 12 58 4 58 16 59 8 13 61 15 62 8 63 l 63 14 64 7 14 66 10 67 4 67 18 68 12 69 6 15 71 5 72 0 72 15 73 10 74 5 16 76 0 76 16 77 12 78 8 79 4 1 7 80 15 81 12 8 2 9 83 6 84 3 18 85 10 86 8 87 6 88 4 89 o 19 90 5 91 4 92 •5 93 2 94 1 20 95 0 96 0 97 0 OS 0 99 0 21 99 1 5 100 16 101 17 102 18 103 19 22 104 10 105 12 106 14 107 1 6 108 18 23 109 5 no 8 11 l 11 1 12 14 113 17 24 114 0 115 4 1 16 8 117 12 118 16 25 117 15 120 0 121 5 1 22 10 123 15 26 123 10 124 16 126 o 127 8 128 14 27 128 5 129 12 130 19 132 6 1 S3 13 28 133 0 134 8 135 16 137 4' 138 12 29 137 15 139 4 140 15 142 2 143 1 1 SO 142 10 144 0 145 !0 H7 * 0 HS 10 ASSISTANT 89 100 Run. 101 Run. 102 Run. 105 Run. 104 Run. B. P. s. p. S. P. s. P. s. P. s* 1 5 0 5 1 5 2 5 3 5 4 2 10 0 10 , 2 10 4 10 6 10 8 3 15 0 15 3 15 6 15 9 15 32 4 20 0 20 4 20 8 20 12 20 16 5 25 0 25 5 25 10 25 15 26 0 6 30 0 SO 6 30 12 30 18 31 4 7 35 0 35 7 35 14 36 1 36 8 8 40 0 40 8 40 16 41 4 41 12 9 45 0 45 9 45 18 46 7 46 16 10 50 0 50 10 51 0 51 10 52 0 11 55 0 55 11 56 2 56 13 57 4 12 60 0 60 12 61 4 61 16 62 8 13 65 0 65 13 66 6 66 19 67 12 14 70 0 70 14 71 8 72 2 72 16 15 75 0 75 15 76 10 77 5 78 O 16 80 0 80 16 81 12 82 8 83 4 17 85 0 85 17 86 14 87 11 88 8 18 90 0 90 18 91 16 92 14 93 12 19 95 0 95 19 96 18 97 17 98 16 20 100 0 101 0 102 0 103 0 104 0 21 105 0 106 i 107 2 108 3 109 4 22 110 0 111 2 112 4 113 6 114 8 23 115 0 116 3 117 6 118 9 119 12 24 120 0 121 4 122 8 123 12 124 16 25 125 0 126 5 127 10 128 15 130 0 26 130 0 131 6 132 12 133 18 135 4 27 135 0 136 7 137 14 139 1 140 8 28 140 0 141 8 142 16 144 4 145 12 29 145 0 146 9 147 18 149 „ 7 150 16 SO 1 50 0 151 10 153 0 154 10 156 0 O M 90 LINEN WEAVER’S - 105 Run* 106 Run. 107 Run. 108 Run. 109 Run. B. P. s. P. s. P. S. P. s. P. S 1 5 5 5 6 5 7 5 8 5 9 2 10 10 10 12 JO 14 10 16 10 18 3 15 15 15 18 16 1 16 4 16 7 4 21 0 21 4 21 8 21 12 21 16 5 26 5 26 10 26 15 27 0 27 5 6 31 10 31 16 32 2 32 8 32 14 7 36 15 37 2 37 9 37 16 38 3 8 42 0 42 8 42 16 43 4 43 12 9 47 5 47 14 48 2 48 12 49 1 30 52 10 53 0 53 10 54 0 54 10 11 57 15 58 6 58 17 59 8 59 19 12 63 0 63 12 64 4 64 16 65 8 13 68 5 68 18 69 11 70 4 70 17 14 73 10 74 4 74 18 75 12 76 6 15 78 15 79 10 80 5 81 0 81 15 16 84 0 84 16 85 12 86 8 87 4 17 89 5 90 2 90 19 91 16 92 13 18 ,94 10 95 8 96 6 97 4 98 2 19 99 15 100 14 101 13 102 12 103 11 20 105 0 106 0 107 0 108 0 109 0 21 110 5 111 6 112 7 113 8 114 9 22 115 10 116 12 117 14 118 16 119 18 23 320 15 121 18 123 1 124 4 125 7 24 125 0 127 4 128 8 129 12 130 16 25 131 5 132 10 133 15 135 0 136 5 26 136 10 137 16 139 2 140 8 141 14 27 141 15 143 2 144 9 145 16 147 3 28 147 0 148 8 149 16 151 4 152 12 29 152 5 153 14 155 3 156 12 158 1 30 157 10 159 0 160 10 162 0 163 10 ASSISTANT 91 110 Run. 111 Run . 112 Run. 115 Run. 114 Run R. P. s. p. S. P. s. P. S. P* s, 1 5 10 5 11 5 12 5 13 5 14 2 11 0 11 2 11 4 11 6 11 8 3 16 10 16 13 16 16 16 19 17 2 4 22 0 22 4 22 8 22 12 22 16 5 27 10 27 15 28 0 28 5 28 10 6 33 0 33 6 33 12 33 18 34 4 7 58 10 38 17 39 4 39 1 1 39 18 8 44 0 44 8 44 16 4 5 4 45 12 9 49 10 49 19 50 8 50 17 51 6 10 55 0 55 10 56 0 56 10 57 0 11 60 10 61 ' 1 61 12 62 3 62 14 12 66 0 66 12 67 4 67 16 68 8 13 71 10 72 3 72 16 73 9 74 2 14 77 0 77 14 78 8 79 2 79 16 15 82 io 83 5 84 0 84 15 85 10 16 88 0 88 16 89 12 90 8 91 4 17 93 10 94 7 95 4 96 1 96 18 18 99 0 99 18 100 16 101 14 102 12 19 104 10 105 9 106 8 107 7 108 6 20 110 0 111 0 112 0 113 0 114 0 21 115 10 116 11 117 12 118 13 119 14 22 121 0 122 2 123 4 124 6 125 8 23 126 10 127 13 128 16 129 19 131 2 24 132 0 133 4 134 8 135 12 136 16 25 137 10 138 15 140 0 141 5 142 10 26 143 0 144 6 145 12 146 18 148 4 27 148 10 149 17 15 1 4 152 11 153 18 28 1 54 0 155 8 156 16 1 53 4 159 12 29 159 10 160 19 162 8 163 17 165 6* 30 165 0 166 10 168 0 169 10 171 0 92 LINEN WEAVER’S 115 Run. 116 Run. 117 Run. 118 Run 119 Run. B. P. s. P. s. P. s. P. s. P. s. 1 5 15 5 16 5 17 5 18 5 19 2 11 10 11 12 11 14 11 16 11 18 3 17 5 17 8 17 11 17 14 17 17 4 23 0 23 4 23 8 23 12 23 16 5 28 15 29 0 29 5 29 10 29 35 b* 34 10 34 16 35 2 35 8 35 14 7 40 5 40 12 40 19 41 6 41 13 8 46 0 46 8 46 18 47 4 47 12 9 51 15 52 4 52 15 53 2 53 11 10 57 10 58 0 58 10 59 0 59 10 11 63 5 63 16 64 7 64 ' 18 65 9 12 69 0 69 12 70 4 70 16 71 8 13 74 15 75 8 76 1 75 14 77 7 14 80 10 81 4 81 18* 82 12 83 6 15 86 5 87 0 87 15 88 10 89 5 16 92 0 92 16 93 12 94 8 95 4 17 97 15 98 12 99 9 100 6 101 3 18 103 10 104 8 105 6 106 4 107 2 19 109 5 110 4 111 3 112 2 113 1 20 115 0 1 16 0 117 0 118 0 119 0 21 120 15 121 16 122 17 123 18 124 19 22 126 10 127 12 128 14 129 16 139 18 23 132 5 133 8 134 11 135 14 136 17 24 138 0 139 4 140 8 141 12 142 16 25 143 15 14 5 0 146 5 147 10 148 15 26 149 10 : 50 16 152 2 153 8 3 54 14 27 155 5 156 12 157 19 159 6 160 13 28 161 0 162 8 163 16 165 4 166 12 29 166 15 168 4 169 13 171 2 172 11 30 172 10 174 0 175 10 177 0 178 10 ASSISTANT — — — ‘ — — t: — — 120 Run. 121 Run. 122 Run. 123 Run. 124 Run. B. P. s. p. s. P. s. P. s. P. s„ l 6 0 6 1 6 2 6 3 6 4 2 12 0 12 2 12 4 12 6 12 8 Cl 18 0 18 3 18 6 18 9 18 12 4 24 0 24 4 24 8 24 12 24 16 5 30 0 30 5 30 10 30 15 31 0 6 36 0 36 6 36 12 36 18 37 4 7 42 0 42 7 42 14 43 1 43 8 8 48 0 ' 48 8 48 16 49 4 49 12 9 54 0 54 9 54 18 55 7 55 16 10 60 0 60 10 61 0 61 10 62 0 11 66 0 66 11 67 2 67 13 68 4 12 72 0 72 12 73 4 73 16 74 8 13 78 0 78 13 79 6 79 19 80 12 14 84 0 84 14 85 8 86 2 86 16 15 90 0 90 15 91 10 92 5 93 0 16 96 0 96 16 97 12 98 8 99 4 17 102 0 102 17 103 14 104 11 105 8 18 108 0 108 18 109 16 110 14 HI 12 19 114 0 H4 19 115 18 116 17 117 16 20 120 0 121 0 122 0 123 0 1 24 0 21 126 0 127 1 128 2 129 3 130 4 22 132 0 133 2 134 4 136 6 136 8 23 138 0 139 3 140 6 141 9 142 12 24 144 0 145 4 146 8 147 12 148 1 6 25 150 0 151 5 152 10 153 15 155 0 26 156 0 157 6 158 12 159 18 161 4 27 162 0 163 7 164 14 166 1 167 8 28 168 0 169 8 170 16 172 4 173 12 29 174 0 175 9 176 18 178 7 179 16 .30 180 0 181 10 183 0 181 10 186 0 - b 94 ? LINEN WEAVERS 125 Run- 126 Run. 127 Run. 128 Run. 129 Run. B. P. s. P. s. P. s. P. s. P. & l 6 5 6 6 6 7 6 8 6 9 2 12 10 12 12 12 14 12 16 12 18 3 18 15 18 18 19 1 19 4 19 7 4 25 0 25 4 25 8 25 12 25 16 5 31 5 31 10 31 15 * 32 0 32 5 6 37 10 37 16 38 2 38 8 38 14 7 43 15 44 2 44 9 44 16 45 3 8 50 0 50 8 50 16 51 4 51 12 9 56 5 56 14 57 3 57 12 58 1 10 62 10 63 0 63 10 64 0 64 10 11 68 15 69 6 69 17 70 8 70 19 12 75 0 75 12 76 4 76 16 77 8 13 81 5 81 8 82 11 83 4 83 17 14 87 10 88 4 88 18 89 12 90 6 15 93 15 94 10 95 5 96 0 96 15 16 100 0 100 16 101 12 102 8 103 4 17 106 5 107 2 107 19 108 16 109 13 18 1J2 10 113 8 114 6 1 15 4 116 2 19 1 18 15 119 14 120 13 121 12 122 1 1 20 125 0 126 0 127 0 128 0 129 0 21 130 5 132 6 133 7 134 8 135 9 22 137 10 138 12 139 14 140 16 141 18 23 143 15 144 18 146 1 147 4 148 7 24 150 0 151 4 152 8 153 12 154 16 25 156 5 157 10 158 0 160 0 161 5 26 162 10 163 16 165 2 166 8 167 14 27 168 15 170 2 171 9 172 16 174 rr o 28 175 0 176 8 177 16 179 4 180 12 29 181 5 182 14 184 3 185 12 187 1 SO 187 10 189 0 190 10 192 0 193 10 / ASSISTANT, 95 130 Run. 151 Run. , 152 B. P. s. p. s. 1 6 10 6 11 2 13 0 33 2 3 19 10 19 13 4 26 0 26 4 5 32 10 32 15 6 39 0 39 6 7 45 10 45 17 8 52 0 52 8 9 58 10 58 19 10 65 0 65 10 11 71 10 72 1 12 78 0 78 12 13 84 10 85 3 14 91 0 91 14 15 97 10 98 5 16 104 0 104 16 17 110 10 111 7 18 117 0 117 18 19 125 10 125 9 20 130 0 131 0 21 136 10 137 31 22 143 0 144 2 23 149 10 150 13 24 156 0 157 4 25 162 10 163 15 26 169 0 170 6 27 175 10 176 17 28 182 0 185 8 29 188 10 189 9 30 195 0 196 10 155 Run* 154 Run, S. P. S. P. S. 12 6 15 6 14 4 13 6 13 8 16 19 19 20 2 8 26 12 26 16 0 33 5 33 10 32 39 18 40 4 4 46 11 46 18 16 53 4 53 12 8 59 17 60 6 0 66 10 67 0 12 73 3 73 14 4 79 16 80 8 16 86 9 87 2 8 93 2 93 16 0 99 15 100 10 12 106 8 107 4 4 113 1 113 18 16 119 11 120 12 8 126 7 127 6 0 133 0 134 0 12 139 13 140 14 4 146 6 147 8 16 152 19 154 2 8 159 12 160 16 0 166 5 167 10 12 172 18 174 4 4 179 11 180 18 16 186 4 187 12 8 192 7 194 6 0 199 10 201 O Run P. 6 13 19 26 33 39 46 52 59 66 72 79 85 92 99 105 112 118 125 132 138 145 151 158 165 171 178 134 190 198 96 LINEN WEAVER'S 135 Run. 136 Run. 137 Run. 138 Run. 139 Run. B. P. S. P. S. P. s. P. s. P. Sw 1 6 15 6 16 6 17 6 18 6 19 2 13 10 13 12 13 14 13 16 13 18 3 20 5 20 8 20 11 20 14 20 17 4 27 0 27 4 27 8 27 12 27 16 5 33 15 34 0 34 5 34 10 34 15 6 40 10 40 16 41 0 41 8 41 14 7 47 5 47 12 47 19 48 6 48 13 8 54 0 54 8 54 16 55 4 55 12 9 60 15 61 4 61 13 62 2 62 11 10 67 10 68 0 68 10 69 0 69 10 11 74 5 74 16 75 7 75 IS 76 9 12 81 0 81 12 82 4 82 16 83 8 13 87 15 88 8 89 1 89 14 90 i 14 94 10 95 4 97 18 96 12 97 6 15 101 5 102 0 102 15 103 10 104 5 16 108 0 108 16 109 12 110 8 111 4 27 114 15 115 12 116 9 117 6 118 3 18 121 10 122 8 123 6 124 4 125 _ 2 19 128 5 129 4 130 o 131 V 2 132 1 20 135 0 136 0 137 0 138 0 139 0 21 141 15 142 16 143 17 144 18 145 19 22 148 10 149 12 150 14 151 16 152 18 23 155 5 156 8 157 11 158 14 159 17 24 162 0 163 4 164 8 165 12 166 16 25 168 15 170 0 161 5 152 10 173 15 26 1 75 10 176 T6 168 2 159 8 180 14 27 182 5 183 12 184 19 198 6 187 13 28 189 0 190 8 191 16 193 4 194 12 29 195 15 19 ? 4 198 13 200 2 201 i 1 on Vy c n a Vw 10 20 4 0 205 10 207 0 208 10 ASSISTANT. 97 Of Beaming* In the beaming of a web the utmost care ought to be taken in the selection of an evener, (raith or ravel,) to make it stand the proper breadth. And more so in linen than in cotton, as a greater degree of tension is necessary; or if the web is beamed too narrow, the selvedges of the web stand oblique, (or shores as the weavers generally term it,) and breaks both reed, heddles, and yarn, Altho’ the incon- veniency which arises from broad beaming is not so great as it is from narrow, it ought to be equally avoided for these reasons, 1st, it appears awkward; 2d, in dressing, the brushes do not draw so fair to the tail : 3d, the selvedges are more stretched than the middle, and of course more liable to break. Beaming soft is also a great evil ; for in the pro- cess of weaving, the yarn will sink and make it dif- ficult to produce good work: Beaming too hard is equally pernicious, as the yarn might be over stretched, and either break in the beaming, or be easily broke in the operation of weaving. To prevent these evils, it would be found advan- tageous if a beam or roller, during the operation of beaming, were placed directly above the beam on which the yarn is rolled by the operators, rest- ing on the yarn, and the pivots at each end of the roller placed in an upright groove, so that the roller might rise as the yarn increased on the beam ; it will also be found to be an advantage to place the chain of the web upon a damp floor twenty-four N o LINEN WEAVER^ hours or more, as it will make it a little more flex- ible, for the operation of beaming: These few hints if properly attended to, will be found in the high- est degree beneficial. In some places and by some people, eveners are counted by hundreds; thus, suppose 180 pins upon ell (or 37 inches,) of an evener required for the beaming of a web, every 10 pins is called a hun- dred; by putting all the figures in 1 80 except the last, in the place of hundreds, makes it 18 hun- dred, the right hand figure stands always for the odd pins; this way of counting will answer equally as well as by scores, as the one way an evener hav- ing 180 pins, is called a 9 score evener, and the other way an 18 hundred. The number of the evener changes for any web of the same sett ac- cording to the number of threads put into the pin- fuls. But, if one thread were allowed to the pinful for each hundred of the reed upon ell, a 10 score or 20 hundred evener, would answer all the pur- poses of beaming, as is eyident from the consider- ation, that a 10 score, or 20 hundred evener, con- tains a pin for each split of one hundred of the reed. It will be noticed that there is nothing al- lowed for the building of the heads, but if the web were to be warped to a 10 score or 20 hundred evener and allowance made for the heads, put a thread more in each pinful, making an allowance of a pin in each 10 pins which will be fully suffi- cient, and a 10 score evener will answer every web. Example, for a 1200 put 13 threads, in each pin* ful, for a 1300 put 14 threads, tyc* $c. ASSISTANT. 99 , » . r “ ■ * , . w » Examples for Beaming . Rule. — Multiply the number of pinfuls in the web by 16, the nails in an ell, and divide by the nails in the breadth of the web; then for every ten in the quotient subtract one, which makes an al- lowance of one pin in every ten for the building of the heads, then divide by 20, which gives the scores and pins upon ell of the evener required. Suppose a w T eb having 240 pinfuls, what evener is necessary for the beaming of the same, to make it stand 5-4ths? 240 Pinfuls. 16 Nails in an elk 1440 240 (.. Nails in 5-4ths.2fo)384|o( 192 X 19 the ones for every 10 in the ?— ■ quotient 2|0)17|5( Answer, 8—13 Another and shorter method may be taken with the different breadths, (such as nine-eights, five jl quarters, six quarters, $c, fyc,) by multiplying the I pinfuls in the web, by the under part of the fraction, and dividing by the upper part, then subtract one for every 10, the allowance for building the heads, and divide by 20, to reduce the quotient to scores. 100 LINEN WEAVER^ I shall take the foregoing example for proof 240 Pinfuls beamed 5-4ths. 4 Under fraction. The upper fraction 5)960( 192 19 the ones for every 10 ia the quotient. 2|0)17|3( Answer, 8 — 13 so that a web having 240 pinfuls will require an evener having 8 score 13 pins, (upon 37 inches,) to beam it 5-4ths, or what is called by some a 17 hundred and 3 pins. Suppose a web having 420 pinfuls, what evener is necessary for the beaming of the same to make it stand 7-4ths ? 420 Pins- 4 Under fraction. The upper fraction 7)1 680( ■ / 240 net breadth. 24 the ones for every 10 if* — — the quotient. 2|0)2l|6 Answer, 10—16 or 10 score 16 pins- ASSISTANT. 101 The foregoing Question another way. 420 Pins. 16 Nails in an ell. 2520 420 Nails in 7-4ths. 28)6720(240 Net breadth. 56 24 the ones for every — — 1 0 in the quotient. 112 2|0)2l|6 112 — * 10 — 16 or 10 score 16 pins. Questions for Practice without allowance for building of the heads . Question — What evener is necessary to beam a web 11 nails broad having 90 pinfuls? Ans. 6 score 10 yy Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 1 i nails broad having 140 pinfuls? Ans. 10 score 5 T V Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 12 nails broad having 150 pinfuls? Ans. 8 score 13^- Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 12 nails broad having 190 pinfuls? Ans. 12 score 15^- Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 1 4 nails broad having 160 pinfuls? Ans. 9 score 2|. Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 9-8ths» broad having 120 pinfuls? Ans. 5 score 6§- Pins- 102 LINEN WEAVER’S What evener is necessary to beam a web 9-8ths. broad having 190 pinfuls? Ans. 8 score 8-| Pins, What evener is necessary to beam a web 5-4ths. broad having 200 pinfuls ? Ans. 8 scores. What evener is necessary to beam a web 6-4ths. broad having 290 pinfuls? Ans. 9 score 13^ Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 6-4ths. broad having 290 pinfuls? Ans. 8 score 5j- Pins. Questions for Practice with allowance for building of the heads . What evener is necessary to beam a web 10 nails broad, having 1.30 pinfuls, one pin in each 10 pins being allowed for the building of the heads ? Ans. 9 score 8 pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 3-4ths. broad having 140 pinfuls? Ans. 8 score 8| Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 9-8ths. broad having 148 pinfuls? Ans. 5 score 18^ Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 5-4ths. broad having 180 pinfuls? Ans. 6 score 10 Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 6-4ths. broad having 240 pinfuls ? Ans. 7 score 4 Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web T-^ths. broad having 340 pinfuls ? Ans. 8 score 1 5%. Pins. What evener is necessary to beam a web 8-4ths. or 2 ell broad having 348 pinfuls ? Ans. 7 score 17 Pins. ASSISTANT* 103 Note.— -In the following table, allowance is made for the building of the heads ; but as eveners are generally made upon 5 and 10 pins the nearest numbers must be taken; for instance, if the evener required be a 5 score and 6 pins the evener to be taken is a 5 score 5, which is the nearest ; ' also, re- spect must be paid to the length and fineness of the web, and likewise to the stretch betwixt the beam and camb. EXAMPLE, If the web is long, the yarn coarse, and the stretch short betwixt the beam and camb, and the evener required a 5 score and 6 pins, the evener that should be taken, must be a 5 score, or a 5 score and 5 pins; on the contrary, if the web is short, the yarn small, and the stretch long betwixt the beam and the camb, the evener to be taken should be a 5 score and 10, or a 5 score and 15 pins, &c. Explanation of the Third Table ; The following Table shews what evener (raith or ravel) will be required for the beaming of any web from 10 nails to 8-4ths, (or 2 ells.) The page is divided into 5 parts, and each part into three columns: the first column of each part contains the pinfuls which may be in the web, the second and third columns contain the scores and pins upon ell of the evener required for the beaming of the pinfuls in the first columns, to make them stand to the breadth marked on the head of the columns* On the head of the columns, Pf. stands for pinfuls*; & for scores, P. for pins. I Q4? LINEN WEAVER'S EXAMPLE. Suppose a web having 240 pinfuls, what evener will be required to make it stand 6-4ths? Look in the first column of one of the parts under 6-4 ths and you will find 240 pinfuls, and in the second and third columns of the same part you will find the evener required, to be a 7 score and 5 pins, which is the evener required to make the web stand 6-4ths. ■a— W i— MB— ASSISTANT. 105 10 Nails. 10 Nails. 10 Nails. Pf. s. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. So E 40 2 15 70 5 0 100 7 5 41 3 0 71 5 0 101 7 B 42 3 0 72 5 0 102 7 5 43 3 0 73 5 5 103 7 10 44 3 0 74 5 5 104 7 10 45 3 5 75 5 5 105 7 10 46 3 5 76 5 10 106 7 15 47 3 5 77 5 10 107 7 15 48 3 10 78 5 10 108 ' n $ 15 49 3 10 79 5 15 109 7 0 50 3 10 80 5 15 110 8 0 51 3 10 - 81 5 15 111 8 0 52 3 15 82 6 0 112 8 o 53 3 15 83 6 0 1 13 8 5 54 3 15 84 6 0 114 8 5 55 4 0 85 6 0 115 8 5 56 4 0 86 6 5 116 8 10 57 4 0 87 6 5 1 17 8 10 58 4 0 88 6 5 118 8 10 59 4 5 89 6 10 119 8 10 60 4 5 90 6 10 1-20 8 10 61 4 5 91 6 10 121 8 15 62 4 10 92 6 15 122 8 15 63 4 10 93 6 15 123 8 15 " 64 4 10 94 6 15 124 9 15 65 4 10 95 6 15 125 9 0 66 4 15 96 7 0 126 9 0 67 4 15 97 7 0 127 9 0 68 4 15 98 7 0 128 9 5 69 4 15 99 7 0 129 9 5 © 106 LINEN WEAVER'S 10 Nails. 11 Nails. 11 Nails. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 130 9 5 52 3 10 82 5 10 131 9 5 53 3 10 83 5 10 132 9 10 54 3 10 84 5 10 133 9 10 55 3 10 85 5 10 134 9 10 56 3 15 86 5 15 135 9 15 57 3 15 87 5 15 136 9 15 58 3 15 88 5 15 137 9 15 59 3 15 89 5 15 138 9 15 60 4 0 90 6 0 139 10 0 61 4 0 91 6 0 140 10 0 62 4 0 92 6 0 141 10 0 63 4 5 93 6 0 142 10 5 64 4 5 94 6 5 143 10 5 65 4 5 95 6 5 144 10 5 66 4 5 96 6 5 145 10 10 67 4 10 97 6 5 146 10 10 68 4 10 98 6 10 147 10 10 69 4 10 99 6 10 148 10 15 70 4 10 100 6 10 149 10 15 71 4 15 101 6 10 150 10 15 72 4 15 102 6 15 73 4 15 103 6 15 1 1 Nails. 74 4 15 104 6 15 Pf. S. R 75 5 0 105 7 15 46 3 0 76 5 0 106 7 0 47 3 0 77 5 0 107 7 0 48 3 5 78 5 5 108 7 0 49 3 5 79 5 5 109 7 0 50 3 5 80 5 5 110 7 5 51 3 •5 81 5 5 111 7 5 assistant, lot 11 Nails, 11 Nails © 11 Nails la Pf. S. P. Pf. s. p. pf. S. R 112 7 5 142 9 5 172 11 5 113 7 5 143 9 10 173 11 10 114 7 10 144 9 10 174 11 10 115 7 10 145 9 10 175 11 10 116 7 10 146 9 10 176 11 10 117 7 15 147 9 15 177 11 15 118 n i 15 148 9 15 178 11 15 319 7 15 149 9 15 179 11 15 120 8 15 150 10 0 121 8 0 151 10 0 12 Nails® 122 8 0 152 10 0 pf. s. P, 123 8 0 153 10 5 50 8 0 124 8 5 154 10 5 51 3 1 125 8 5 155 10 5 52 3 2 126 8 5 156 10 5 53 3 3 127 8 10 357 10 10 54 3 4 128 8 10 158 10 10 55 3 5 129 8 10 159 10 10 56 3 6 130 8 10 160 10 10 57 3 7 131 8 15 161 10 15 58 3 9 132 8 15 162 10 15 59 3 10 133 8 15 163 10 15 60 3 11 134 8 35 164 10 15 61 3 12 135 9 0 165 11 0 62 3 13 136 9 0 366 11 0 63 3 14 137 9 0 167 1 1 0 64 3 16 138 9 0 168 11 0 65 3 17 139 9 5 169 11 5 66 4 18 140 9 5 170 11 5 67 4 O 141 9 5 171 11 5 68 4 0 108 LINEN WEAVER’S 12 Nails. 12 Nails. 12 Nails. Pf. Se P. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 69 4 3 99 5 19 129 7 15 70 4 4 100 6 0 130 7 16 71 4 5 101 6 1 131 7 17 72 4 7 102 6 3 132 7 19 73 4 8 103 6 4 133 8 0 74 4 9 104 6 5 134 8 1 75 4 10 105 6 6 135 8 2 76 4 11 106 6 7 136 8 3 77 4 12 107 6 8 137 8 4 78 4 14 108 6 10 138 8 6 79 4 15 109 6 11 139 8 7 80 4 16 110 6 12 140 8 8 81 4 18 111 6 14 141 8 10 82 4 19 112 6 15 142 8 11 83 5 0 113 6 15 143 8 11 84 5 1 114 6 17 144 8 13 85 5 2 115 6 18 145 8 14 86 5 3 116 6 19 146 8 15 87 5 6 117 7 1 147 8 17 88 5 7 118 7 2 148 8 18 89 5 8 119 7 3 149 8 19 SO 5 8 120 7 4 150 9 0 91 5 9 121 7 5 151 9 I 92 5 10 122 7 6 152 9 2 93 5 12 123 7 8 153 9 4 94 5 33 124 7 9 154 9 5 95 5 14 125 7 10 155 9 6 96 5 16 126 7 12 156 9 8 97 5 17 127 7 13 157 9 9 98 5 17 128 7 13 15 S 9 10 ASSISTANT 109 12 Nails. 12 Nails. 13 Nails, Pf. s. p. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. 159 9 11 189 10 7 75 4 3 160 9 12 190 ii 8 76 4 4 161 9 13 191 li 9 77 4 5 162 9 15 192 n 10 78 4 6 163 9 16 193 n 11 79 4 8 164 9 17 194 il 13 80 4 9 165 9 18 195 ii 14 81 4 10 166 10 0 196 n 15 82 4 11 167 10 1 197 n 16 83 4 12 168 10 2 19S ii 18 84 4 13 169 10 3 199 1 1 19 85 4 14 170 10 4 200 12 0 86 4 15 171 10 6 87 4 17 172 10 7 13 Nails* 88 4 18 173 10 8 Pf. s. R 89 4 19 174 10 9 60 3 6 90 5 0 175 10 10 61 3 8 91 5 1 176 10 11 62 3 9 92 5 2 177 10 13 63 3 10 93 5 3 178 10 14 64 3 11 94 5 4 .179 10 15 65 3 12 95 5 5 180 10 16 66 3 13 96 5 7 181 10 17 67 3 14 97 5 8 182 10 18 68 3 15 98 5 9 183 10 13 69 3 17 99 5 10 184 10 1 70 3 18 100 5 11 185 10 2 71 3 19 101 5 12 186 10 n, O 72 4 0 102 5 13 187 10 4 73 4 1 103 5 14 188 10 5 74 4 2 104 5 16 110 LINEN WEAVER’S Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. 105 5 17 135 7 9 - 165 9 3 106 5 18 136 7 10 166 9 4 107 5 19 137 7 11 167 9 5 108 6 0 138 7 13 168 9 6 109 6 1 139 7 14 169 9 8 110 6 2 140 7 15 170 9 9 111 6 3 141 7 16 171 9 10 112 6 4 142 7 17 172 9 11 113 6 6 143 7 18 173 9 12 114 6 7 144 8 0 174 9 13 115 6 8 145 8 1 175 9 14 116 6 9 146 8 2 176 9 15 117 6 10 147 8 3 177 9 16 118 6 11 148 8 4 178 9 18 119 6 12 149 8 5 179 9 19 120 6 13 150 8 6 180 10' 0 121 6 14 151 8 7 181 10 1 122 6 15 152 8 9 182 10 2 123 6 16 153 8 10 183 10 3 124 6 17 154 8 11 184 10 4 125 6 18 155 8 12 185 10 5 126 7 0 156 8 13 186 10 6 127 7 1 157 8 14 187 10 7 128 7 2 158 8 15 188 10 8 129 7 3 159 8 16 189 10 9 ISO 7 4 160 8 18 190 10 10 131 7 5 161 8 19 191 10 11 132 7 6 162 9 0 192 10 13 133 7 6 163 9 1 193 10 14 134 7 8 164 9 2 194 10 15 ASSISTANT 111 13 Nails. 7~8ths. 7-8ths. Pf. S. P. pf. s. P. Pf. s. P. 195 10 16 81 4 3 ill 5 14 196 10 17 82 4 4 112 5 15 197 10 18 83 4 5 113 5 16 198 10 19 84 4 6 114 5 17 199 11 0 85 4 8 115 5 18 200 11 2 86 4 9 116 5 19 201 11 3 87 4 10 117 6 0 202 11 4 88 4 10 118 6 1 203 11 5 89 4 11 119 6 2 204 11 6 90 4 12 120 6 3 205 11 7 91 4 13 121 6 4 206 11 8 92 4 14 122 6 5 207 11 9 93 4 15 123 6 6 208 il 10 94 4 16 124 6 7 209 11 12 95 4 18 125 6 8 210 11 13 96 4 19 126 6 9 97 5 0 127 6 10 7-8ths • 98 5 1 128 6 12 pf. s. P. 99 5 2 129 6 13 70 3 12 100 5 5 130 6 14 71 3 15 101 5 4 131 6 15 72 3 14 102 5 5 132 6 16 73 3 15 103 5 6 133 6 17 74 3 16 104 5 7 134 6 18 75 3 17 105 5 8 135 6 19 76 3 18 106 5 9 136 7 0 77 3 19 307 5 10 137 7 1 78 4 0 108 5 11 138 7 2 79 4 1 109 5 12 139 7 3 80 4 2 110 5 15 140 t 4 112 LINEN WEAVER S 7-8ths. 7 Pf s. P. Pf. 141 7 5 171 142 7 6 172 143 7 7 173 144 7 8 174 145 7 9 175 143 7 30 376 347 7 12 177 348 7 13 178 149 7 14 179 150 7 15 • 180 151 7 16 181 152 7 17 182 153 7 18 183 154 7 19 134 155 8 0 185 156 8 1 186 157 8 2 187 3 58 8 2 188 159 8 3 189 160 8 4 190 161 8 5 191 162 8 6 192 163 8 7 193 164 8 8 194 1 65 8 10 195 166 8 11 196 367 8 12 197 3 68 8 13 198 369 8 14 199 170 8 15 'N 200 t 7*8ths © P. Pf S. P. 16 201 10 6 17 202 10 7 18 203 10 8 19 204 10 9 0 205 10 11 1 206 10 12 2 207 10 13 3 208 10 14 4 209 10 15 5 210 10 16 6 211 10 17 7 212 10 18 8 213 10 19 9 214 1 i 0 10 215 11 1 11 216 11 2 12 217 11 3 13 218 11 4 14 219 11 5 16 220 11 6 17 18 15 Nails. " 18 Pf s. P. 19 75 3 12 0 76 3 13 1 77 3 34 2 78 3 15 3 79 3 16 4 80 3 17 5 81 3 18 -8ths S, 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 * 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 ASSISTANT* 113 15 Nails . 15 Nails • 15 Nail r% »• Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. s. P. 82 8 19 112 5 8 142 6 17 83 4 0 113 5 9 143 6 18 84 4 1 114 5 9 1 44 6 19 85 4 1 115 5 10 145 6 19 86 4 2 1 i 6 B 11 146 7 0 87 4 3 117 5 12 147 7 1 88 4 4 118 5 13 148 7 2 89 4 5 119 5 14 149 7 8 90 4 6 120 5 15 150 7 4 91 4 7 121 5 16 151 7 5 92 4 8 122 5 17 152 7 6 93 4 9 123 5 18 153 7 7, 94 4 10 124 5 19 154 7 8 95 4 11 125 6 0 155 7 9 96 4 12 126 6 1 156 7 10 97 4 IS 127 6 2 157 7 11 98 4 14 128 6 3 158 7 12 99 4 15 129 6 4 159 7 13 100 4 16 130 6 5 160 7 3 3 101 4 17 131 6 6 161 7 14 102 4 18 132 6 7 162 7 15 103 4 19 133 6 8 163 7 16 104 5 0 134 6 9 164 7 17 105 5 1 135 6 10 165 7 18 106 5 2 136 6 11 166 A 19 107 5 3 137 6 12 167 8 0 108 5 4 138 6 13 168 8 \ 109 5 5 1 39 6 14 169 8 2 110 5 6 140 6 15 170 8 5 111 5 7 141 6 16 171 8 4 P 4 H4 LINEN WEAVER’S 15 Nails. 15 Nails, Pf. s. P. Pf. S. p. 172 8 5 202 9 24 4-4ths 173 8 6 203 9 15 Pf. S. P. 174 8 7 204 9 16 90 4 l 175 8 8 205 9 17 91 4 2 176 8 9 206 9 18 92 4 3 177 8 10 207 10 19 93 4 4 178 8 11 208 10 0 94 4 5 179 8 12 209 10 1 95 4 6 180 8 13 210 10 2 06 4 7 181 8 14 211 10 3 97 4 8 182 8 15 212 10 4 98 4 9 183 8 16 213 10 5 99 4 10 184 8 17 214 10 6 100 4 10 185 8 18 215 10 7 101 4 11 186 8 19 216 10 8 102 4 12 187 9 0 217 10 9 103 4 13 188 9 1 218 10 10 104 4 14 189 9 2 219 10 11 105 4 15 190 9 2 220 10 12 106 4 16 19 1 9 3 221 10 13 107 4 17 192 9 4 222 10 14 108 4 18 193 9 5 223 10 15 109 4 19 194 9 6 224 10 16 1 10 4 19 195 9 7 925 10 17 111 5 0 196 9 8 226 10 28 112 5 1 197 9 9 227 10 19 113 5 2 298 9 10 228 10 19 114 5 3 199 9 11 229 11 0 115 5 4 200 9 12 230 11 2 116 5 5 201 9 13 117 5 6 V ASSiSTAftl*. 4«4ths. ' 4-4ths. 4«4ths. Pf. s. , P. Pf. S . P. . Pf. s. P, 118 5 7 148 6 14 178 8 1 119 5 8 149 6 15 179 8 2 120 5 8 150 6 15 180 8 2 121 5 9 15 1 6 16 181 8 3 122 5 10 152 6 17 182 8 4 12 3 5 11 153 6 18 183 8 5 124 5 12 154 6 19 184 8 6 125 5 13 155 7 0 185 8 7 126 5 14 1 56 7 1 186 8 8 127 5 15 157 7 3 187 8 9 128 5 16 158 7 3 188 8 10 129 5 17 159 7 4 189 8 11 ISO 5 17 160 7 4 190 8 11 131 5 18 161 959 s 5 191 8 12 132 5 19 162 7 6 192 8 13 133 6 0 163 7 7 193 8 14 134 6 1 164 7 8 194 8 15 135 8 2 165 7 9 195 8 16 136 6 3 166 7 10 196 8 17 137 6 4 167 7 11 197 8 18 138 6 5 168 7 12 198 8 19 139 6 6 169 7 13 199 9 0 140 6 6 170 7 13 200 9 0 141 6 7 171 7 14 201 9 1 142 6 8 172 7 15 202 9 2 14 3 8 9 173 7 16 203 9 8 144 6 10 174 7 17 204 9 4 1 45 6 11 175 7 18 205 9 5 146 6 12 176 7 19 206 9 6 147 5 13 177 8' 0 207 9 7 11(5 tINEN WEAVER’S 4-4tllS. 4-4ths» 4-4tll9. Pf. S. p. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. 208 9 8 238 10 15 268 12 2 209 9 9 239 10 16 269 12 3 210 9 9 240 10 16 270 12 3 211 9 10 241 10 17 271 12 4 212 9 11 242 10 18 272 12 5 213 9 12 243 10 19 273 12 6 214 9 15 244 11 0 274 12 7 215 9 14 245 11 1 275 12 8 216 9 15 246 11 2 276 12 9 217 9 16 247 11 3 277 12 10 218 9 17 248 11 4 278 12 11 319 9 18 249 11 5 279 12 12 220 9 18 250 11 5 280 12 12 221 9 19 251 11 6 281 12 13 222 10 0 252 11 7 282 12 14 223 10 1 253 11 8 283 12 15 224 10 2 254 11 9 284 12 16 225 10 3 255 11 10 28 5 12 17 226 10 4 256 11 11 286* 12 18 227 10 5 257 11 12 287 12 19 228 10 6 258 11 13 288 13 0 229 10 7 259 11 14 289 13 l 230 10 7 260 11 14 290 13 1 231 10 8 261 11 15 232 10 9 262 11 16 17 Nails. 233 10 10 263 11 17 Pf. s. P. 234 10 11 264 11 IS 100 4 5 235 10 12 265 11 19 101 4 6 236 10 13 266 12 0 102 4 7 237 10 14 267 12 1 103 4 8 ASSISTANT, 17 Nails, 17 Nails, 9 17 Nails, ► Pf. s. R Pf. s. R Pf. S. R 104 4 9 134 5 14 164 6 19 105 4 9 135 5 14 165 6 19 106 4 10 136 5 15 166 7 0 107 4 11 137 5 16 167 7 1 108 4 12 138 5 17 168 7 2 109 4 15 139 5 18 169 7 S 110 4 14 140 5 18 170 7 4 111 4 15 ’ 141 5 19 171 7 5 112 4 16 142 6 0 172 7 6 113 4 17 143 6 1 173 7 7 114 4 18 144 6 2 174 7 8 115 4 18 145 6 3 175 7 8 116 4 19 146 6 4 176 7 9 117 5 0 147 6 5 177 7 10 118 5 1 148 6 6 178 7 li 119 5 2 149 6 7 179 7 12 120 5 2 150 6 7 180 7 12 121 5 3 151 6 8 181 7 13 122 5 4 152 6 9 182 7 14 123 5 5 153 6 10 183 7 15 124 5 6 154 6 li 184 7 16 125 5 6 155 6 11 185 7 16 126 5 7 156 6 12 186 7 17 127 5 8 157 6 13 187 7 18 128 5 9 158 6 14 188 7 19 129 5 10 159 6 15 189 8 0 130 5 10 160 6 15 190 8 1 131 5 11 161 6 16 191 8 2 132 5 12 162 6 17 192 8 3 135 5 13 163 6 18 193 8 4 118 ' LINEN WEAVER'S 17 Nails. 17 Nails. 17 Nails. • Pf. s. P. Pf. s. p. Pf. S. Pc 194 8 5 224 9 11 254 10 16 195 8 5 225 9 11 255 10 16 196 8 6 226 9 12 256 10 17 197 8 7 227 9 IS 257 10 18 198 8 8 228 9 14 258 10 19 199 8 9 229 9 15 259 11 0 200 8 10 280 9 15 260 11 0 201 8 11 281 9 16 261 11 1 202 8 12 232 9 17 262 11 2 203 8 IS 233 9 18 - 263 11 3 204 8 14 234 9 19 264 11 4 205 8 14 2S5 10 19 265 11 5 206 8 15 236 10 0 266 11 6 207 8 16 237 10 1 267 1 1 7 208 8 17 238 10 2 268 11 8 209 8 18 239 10 3 269 11 9 210 8 19 340 10 3 270 11 9 211 9 0 241 10 4 271 11 10 212 9 1 242 10 5 272 11 11 213 9 2 243 10 6 273 11 12 214 9 3 244 10 7 274 11 13 215 9 3 245 10 8 375 11 14 216 9 4 246 10 9 276 li 15 217 9 5 247 10 10 277 11 16 218 9 6 248 10 11 278 11 17 219 9 7 249 10 12 279 11 18 220 9 7 250 10 12 280 1 i 18 221 9 8 251 10 13 281 11 19 222 9 9 252 10 14 282 12 0 223 9 10 253 10 15 283 12 1 ASSISTANT. 17 Nails. 17 Nails. 9-8ths. Pf. S. P, Pf. S. p. pf. s. p. 284 12 2 314 13 6. 125 5 0 285 12 2 335 13 6 126 5 1 286 12 3 316 13 7 127 5 2 287 12 4 317 18 8 128 5 3 288 12 5 818 13 9 129 3 4 289 1 2 6 319 13 10 ISO 5 4 290 12 6 320 13 11 131 5 5 291 12 7 132 5 6 292 12 8 9-8ths, i 133 5 7 293 12 9 pf. s. P. 3 34 5 6 294 12 10 105 4 4 135 5 8 295 12 10 106 4 5 136 5 9 296 12 11 107 4 6 137 5 10 297 12 12 108 4 7 138 5 11 298 12 13 109 4 8 139 5 12 299 12 14 110 4 8 140 5 12 300 12 14 111 4 9 141 5 13 301 12 15 112 4 10 142 5 14 302 ■12 16 113 4 11 143 5 15 803 12 17 114 4 12 144 5 16 304 12 18 115 4 12 145 5 16 SO 5 12 18 116 4 13 14 6 5 17 306 12 19 117 4 14 147 5 18 307 13 0 118 4 15 148 5 19 308 13 1 119 4 16 149 6 0 309 13 2 120 4 16 150 6 0 310 IS 2 121 4 17 151 6 1 311 13 3 122 4 18 152 6 2 312 13 4 123 4 19 153 6 8 313 13 5 124 5 0 154 6 4 120 LINEN WEAVER’S 9-8 ths 9 9-8ths. 9 -8 ths, ► Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 155 6 4 185 7 8 215 8 12 156 6 5 186 7 9 216 8 13 157 6 6 187 7 10 217 8 14 158 6 7 188 7 11 218 8 15 159 6 8 189 7 12 219 8 16 160 6 8 190 7 12 220 8 16 161 6 9 191 7 13 221 8 17 162 6 10 192 7 14 222 8 18 165 6 11 193 7 15 225 8 19 164 6 12 194 7 16 224 9 0 165 6 12 195 7 16 225 9 0 166 6 13 196 7 17 226 9 1 167 6 14 197 7 18 227 9 2 168 6 15 198 7 19 228 9 8 169 6 16 199 8 0 229 9 4 170 6 16 200 8 0 230 9 4 171 6 17 201 8 1 231 9 5 172 6 18 202 8 2 232 9 6 173 6 19 203 8 S 233 9 7 174 7 0 204 8 4 234 9 8 175 7 0 205 8 4 235 9 8 176 7 1 206 8 5 236 9 9 177 7 2 207 8 6 237 9 10 178 7 3 208 8 7 238 9 11 179 7 4 209 8 8 239 9 12 180 7 4 210 8 8 240 9 12 181 7 5 211 8 9 241 9 13 182 7 6 212 8 10 242 9 14 1 83 7 7 213 8 11 243 9 15 184 7 8 214 8 12 244 9 16 ASSISTANT m 9-8 ths. Pf. s. p. 9-8 ths Pf. S. 24 5 9 16 275 11 246 9 17 276 11 247 9 18 277 11 248 9 19 278 11 249 10 0 279 1 1 250 10 0 280 11 25i 10 1 281 11 252 10 2 282 11 253 10 3 283 3 1 254 10 4 284 11 2 55 10 4 285 11 255 10 5 286 11 257 10 6 287 11 258 10 7 288 11 259 10 8 289 11 260 10 8 . 290 11 261 10 9 291 1 1 262 10 10 292 3 1 263 10 11 293 11 264 10 12 294 11 265 10 12 295 1 1 266 10 13 296 11 267 10 14 297 1 1 268 10 15 298 11 269 10 16 299 12 270 10 16 300 12 271 10 17 301 12 272 10 18 302 12 273 10 19 303 12 274 11 O 304 12 Q 9-Sths. Pf S. P. 305 12 4 306 12 5 307 12 6 308 12 7 309 12 8 310 12 8 311 12 9 312 12 10 313 12 11 314 12 12 315 12 12 316 .12 13 317 12 3 4 318 12 1 5 319 12 16 320 12 16 321 12 17 322 12 18 32 o 12 19 324 13 0 325 13 0 326 13 1 327 3 3 2 328 13 3 329 13 4 330 13 4 5- •4 ths. Pf S. P. 1 10 4 0 4 P. 0 1 2 3 4 4 5 6 7 8 8 9 10 11 12 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 0 0 1 2 3 4 122 LINEN WEAVER^ 5-4ths. 5-4ths. 5-4tbs. Pf. s. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P, Ill 4 1 141 5 3 171 6 6 112 4 2 142 5 4 172 6 7 113 4 3 143 5 5_ 173 6 7 114 4 3 144 5 5 174 6 8 1 15 4 4 145 5 6 175 6 9 116 4 5 346 5 7 176 6 10 1 17 4 6 147 5 8 177 6 10 118 4 7 148 5 9 178 6 11 119 4 8 149 5 10 179 6 12 120 4 8 150 5 10 180 6 12 121 4 9 151 5 11 181 6 13 122 4 10 152 5 12 182 6 14 123 4 11 153 ,0 12 183 6 14 224 4 12 154 5 13 184 6 15 125 4 12 155 5 14 185 6 16 126 4 13 156 5 14 1S6 6 16 127 4 14 157 5 15 187 6 17 128 4 15 158 5 16 188 6 18 129 4 16 159 5 17 189 6 19 130 4 16 160 5 17 190 6 19 131 4 16 1 6 ! 5 18 191 7 0 132 4 16 162 5 19 192 7 0 333 4 17 1 63 6 0 193 7 1 134 4 17 164 6 0 194 7 1 135 4 18 165 6 1 195 7 2 136 4 19 166 6 2 196 7 2 137 5 0 167 6 3 197 7 3 138 5 1 168 6 4 198 7 3 3 39 5 2 169 6 5 199. 7 4 140 5 2 170 6 5 200 7 4 * ^ ASSISTANT* 123 5-4ths« 5-4ths. 5-4ths. Ff. s. P, Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. 201 7 5 231 8 7 261 9 10 .202 7 5 232 8 8 262 9 11 203 7 6 233 8 9 263 9 12 204 7 6 234 8 10 264 9 13 205 7 7 235 8 10 265 9 14 206 7 7 236 8 11 266 9 15 207 7 8 237 8 12 267 9 16 208 7 8 238 8 13 268 9 17 209 7 9 239 8 14 269 9 18 210 7 9 240 8 14 270 9 18 211 7 10 241 8 15 271 9 18 212 7 10 242 8 16 272 9 19 213 7 1 1 243 8 17 273 10 0 214 7 11 244 8 18 274 10 1 215 7 12 245 8 18 275 10 1 216 7 12 246 8 19 276 10 2 217 V 13 247 9 0 277 10 3 218 7 14 248 9 1 278 10 4 219 7 15 249 9 2 279 10 5 220 7 16 250 9 2 280 10 5 221 7 17 251 9 3 281 10 5 222 7 . 18 252 9 4 282 10 6 223 7 19 253 9 5 283 10 7 224 8 0 254 9 6 284 10 8 225 8 2 255 9 6 285 10 8 226 8 5 256 9 7 286 10 9 227 8 4 257 9 8 287 10 10 228 8 5 258 9 9 288 10 11 229 8 6 259 9 10 289 10 12 230 8 6 260 9 10 290 10 12 124 LINEN WEAVER’S 5-4ths. 5-4ths. 5-4 ths. Pf. s. p. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 291 10 13 321 12 0 351 13 I 292 10 14 322 12 0 352 13 2 293 10 15 323 12 1 353 13 3 294 10 16 324 12 2 354 13 4 295 10 16 325 12 2 355 13 4 296 10 17 326 12 3 356 13 4 297 10 18 327 12 4 357 13 5 298 10 19 328 12 5 358 13 6 299 11 0 329 12 6 359 13 7 300 11 0 330 12 6 360 13 7 301 11 1 331 12 6 361 13 7 302 11 2 332 12 7 362 13 8 303 11 3 333 12 8 363 13 9 304 11 4 334 12 9 > 364 13 10 305 11 5 335 12 9 365 13 10 306 11 6 336 12 10 307 11 7 337 12 11 11 -8ths • 308 11 8 338 12 12 Pf. S. P. 309 11 9 339 12 15 120 4 19 310 11 9 340 12 15 121 4 0 311 11 10 341 12 14 122 4 1 312 11 11 S42 12 15 123 4 2 313 11 12 345 12 16 124 4 3 314' 11 13 344 12 17 125 4 3 315 11 14 345 12 17 126 4 4 316 11 15 346 12 18 127 4 5 317 11 16 347 12 19 128 4 6 318 11 17 348 13 0 129 4 7 319 11 18 34 9 13 1 130 4 7 320 11 39 350 IS 1 131 4 7 ASSISTANT 125 1 1 -8ths. 118 Pf. s. P. Pf. 132 4 8 162 133 4 9 163 134 4 10 164 135 4 10 165 136 4 10 166 137 4 11 167 138 4 11 168 139 4 12 169 140 4 13 170 141 4 13 171 142 4 14 172 143 4 15 173 144 4 16 174 145 4 16 175 146 4 16 176 147 4 17 177 148 4 18 178 149 4 19 17 9 150 4 19 180 151 5 0 181 152 5 1 182 1 55 5 2 183 154 5 3 184 155 5 3 185 156 5 3 186 157 5 4 187 158 5 5 188 159 5 6 189 160 5 7 190 161 5 7 191 11-Sths. P. Pf. S. P. 8 192 6 9 9 193 6 10 10 194 6 11 10 195 6 12 11 196 6 12 12 197 6 13 15 198 6 14 14 199 6 15 14 200 6 15 14 201 6 16 15 202 6 17 16 203 6 17 17 204 6 18 18 205 6 18 18 206 6 19 19 207 7 0 0 208 7 0 1 209 7 1 1 210 7 r 1 211 7 2 2 212 7 2 3 213 7 3 4 214 7 4 4 215 7 5 5 216 7 6 6 217 7 6 7 218 7 7 8 219 7 8 8 220 7 9 8 221 7 9 i-ths S. 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 126 UNEN WEAVER^ ll-8ths. ll-8ths. ll«8ths. P£ s. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. s. p. 222 7 10 252 8 11 282 9 12 223 7 11 253 8 12 283 9 13 224 7 12 254 8 13 284 9 14 225 7 12 255 8 14 285 9 15 22 6 7 13 256 8 14 286 9 15 227 7 14 257 8 15 287 9 16 22S 7 15 258 8 16 288 9 17 229 7 16 259 8 17 289 9 18 230 7 16 260 8 18 290 9 19 231 7 16 261 8 18 291 9 19 232 7 17 262 8 19 292 10 0 233 7 18 263 9 0 293 10 1 234 7 19 264 9 0 294 10 1 235 8 0 265 9 0 29 5 10 2 236 8 0 266 9 1 296 10 2 237 8 1 267 9 2 297 10 3 238 8 2 268 9 3 298 10 4 239 8 3 269 9 4 299 10 5 240 8 4 270 9 4 300 10 6 241 8 5 271 9 4 301 10 6 242 8 6 272 9 5 302 10 6 243 8 6 273 9 6 303 10 7 244 8 6 274 9 7 304 10 8 245 8 7 275 9 8 305 10 9 246 8 8 276 9 8 306 10 9 247 8 9 277 9 9 307 10 10 248 8 10 278 9 10 308 * 10 10 249 8 10 279 9 11 309 10 1 1 250 8 10 280 9 11 310 10 12 251 8 10 281 9 11 31 i 10 12 V ASSISTANT, 127 1 1-8 ths. 11- -8 ths, » 11- ■8 ths » Pf. s. p. Pf. S. P. Pf. S. R 312 10 13 342 11 IS 372 12 12 313 10 14 343 11 14 373 12 13 314 10 15 344 11 15 374 12 1 4 315 10 15 34 5 11 15 375 12 14 316 10 16 346 11 16 376 12 15 317 10 16 347 11 17 377 12 16 318 10 17 348 11 18 378 12 17 319 10 18 349 11 19 379 12 18 320 10 18 350 11 39 380 12 1 8 321 10 18 351 11 19 281 12 18 322 10 19 352 12 0 382 12 19 323 11 0 353 12 1 383 13 O 324 11 1 354 12 2 384 13 0 325 11 1 355 12 2 385 13 O 326 11 2 356 12 2 386 13 1 327 11 3 357 12 3 38 7 13 2 328 11 4 358 12 4 388 13 2 329 11 5 359 12 5 389 13 3 330 11 6 360 12 5 390 13 3 331 11 6 361 12 5 391 13 3 332 11 6 362 12 6 392 13 4 333 11 7 863 12 7 393 13 4 334 11 8 364 12 8 394 13 5 335 11 8 365 12 9 395 13 6 336 11 9 366“ 12 9 396 13 6 337 11 10 367 12 9 397 13 8 338 1 1 11 368 12 10 398 13 8 339 11 12 369 12 10 399 13 9 340 11 12 370 12 11 400 13 9 341 11 12 371 12 12 228 , linen weaver’s 6-4 ths. 6-4ths. 6-4ths. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. s. P. ISO 3 18 160 5 0 190 5 18 131 3 19 161 5 0 191 5 18 132 4 0 162 5 0 192 5 19 133 4 1 163 5 1 193 6 0 1 34 4 1 164 5 2 194 6 0 135 4 2 165 5 2 195 6 0 136 4 3 166 5 2 196 6 0 137 4 4 167 5 3 197 6 1 138 4 5 168 5 4 198 8 2 139 4 6 169 5 5 199 6 3 140 4 6 170 5 ** D 200 6 3 141 4 6 171 5 5 201 6 3 142 4 6 172 5 6 202 6 3 143 4 7 173 5 7 203 6 4 144 4 8 174 5 8 204 6 5 145 4 9 175 5 8 20 5 6 5 146 4 9 176 5 8 206 6 5 147 4 10 177 5 9 207 6 6 148 4 11 178 5 10 208 6 6 149 4 12 179 5 11 209 6 7 150 4 13 180 5 11 210 6 7 151 4 13 181 5 12 211 6 8 152 4 13 182 5 13 212 6 9 153 4 14 183 5 13 213 6 10 154 4 15 184 5 14 214 6 1 l 155 4 16 185 5 15 215 6 12 156 4 17 186 5 16 316 6 12 157 4 17 187 5 16 217 6 13 158 4 18 188 5 17 218 6 14 159 4 19 189 5 17 219 $ 15 / ASSISTANT, 129 6-4 ths. 6-4 ths. 6-4 tils. Pf. s. P. 'Pf. S. P. Pf. S. P. 220 6 15 250 7 12 280 8 12 221 6 15 251 7 12 281 8 13 222 6 16 252 7 13 282 8 14 223 6 16 253 7 14 283 8 15 224 6 17 254 7 15 284 8 16 225 6 17 255 7 16 285 8 16 226 6 17 256 7 17 286 8 16 227 6 18 257 7 18 287 8 17 228 6 18 258 7 19 288 8 18 229 6 18 259 8 0 289 8 19 230 6 19 260 8 0 290 9 0 251 7 0 261 8 0 291 9 0 232 7 0 262 8 1 292 9 0 233 7 0 263 8 2 293 9 1 234 7 0 264 8 3 294 9 2 235 7 1 265 8 3 295 9 2 236 7 2 266 8 3 296 9 2 237 7 3 267 8 4 297 9 3 238 7 4 268 8 4 298 9 4 239 7 5 269 8 5 299 9 5 240 7 5 270 8 5 300 9 5 241 7 5 271 8 5 301 9 5 242 7 6 272 8 6 302 9 6 243 7 7 273 8 7 303 9 7 244 7 8 274 8 8 304 9 a 245 7 9 275 8 8 305 9 8 246 7 9 276 8 9 306 9 8 247 7 10 277 8 10 307 9 9 248 n i 11 278 8 11 308 9 ID 249 7 12 279 8 U2 309 9 11 & 4 . ISO LINEN weaver’s 6-4 ths, i 6-4ths. 6-4ths Pf. S. P. Pf. s. p. Pf. s. P. 310 9 11 340 10 9 370 11 6 311 9 1 1 341 10 9 371 11 6 312 9 12 CM sf 95 10 10' 372 11 7 313 9 13 343 10 11 373 11 8 314 9 14 344 10 12 374 11 9 315 9 14 345 10 12 375 11 9 316 9 14 346 10 12 576 11 9 317 9 15 347 30 13 377 11 10 318 9 16 348 10 14 378 11 11 319 9 17 349 10 15 379 11 12 320 9 17 350 10 15 380 11 13 321 9 17 351 10 15 581 11 13 322 9 18 352 10 16 382 11 13 323 9 19 353 10 17 383 11 14 324 10 0 354 10 18 384 11 15 325 10 0 355 10 18 385 11 15 326 10 0 3 56 10 18 386 11 15 327 10 1 357 10 19 387 11 16 328 10 2 358 11 0 388 11 17 329 10 3 359 11 1 389 11 18 330 10 4 360 11 1 390 11 18 331 10 4 361 11 1 391 11 18 332 10 4 562 11 2 392 11 19 353 10 5 363 11 2 393 12 O 334 10 6 364 11 3 394 12 0 335 10 7 365 11 4 395 12 0 336 10 7 366 1 1 4 396 12 1 337 10 7 367 1 1 4 397 12 2 338 10 8 368 11 5 398 12 3 339 10 9 369 11 6 399 12 4 ASSISTANT. 131 6-4 th a. 6-4 ths • 6-4 ths e Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. R 400 12 4 430 13 0 460 13 18 401 12 4 431 13 0 461 13 19 402 12 5 432 13 1 462 14 0 403 12 6 435 13 2 463 14 1 404 12 7 434 13 3 464 14 2 405 12 7 435 13 3 465 14 2 406 12 8 436 13 3 466 14 2 407 12 9 437 13 4 467 14 S 408 12 9 438 13 5 468 14 4 409 12 9 439 13 6 469 14 5 410 12 9 440 13 6 470 14 5 411 12 10 441 13 6 471 14 5 412 12 10 442 13 7 472 14 6 413 12 10 445 13 S 473 14 7 414 12 11 444 13 9 474 14 8 415 12 1 1 445 13 9 475 14 8 4 16 12 12 446 13 9 476 14 9 417 12 13* 447 13 10 477 14 10 418 12 14 00 13 11 478 14 11 419 12 15 449 13 12 479 14 12 420 12 15 450 13 12 480 14 12 421 12 15 451 13 12 481 14 12 422 12 16 452 13 13 482 14 13 42 3 12 17 453 13 14 483 14 13 424 12 18 454 13 15 484 14 14 42 5 12 18 455 13 15 485 14 15 426 12 18 456 13 15 486 14 15 427 12 19 457 13 16 487 14 16 428 12 19 458 13 17 488 14 17 429 13 0 459 13 18 CO ID 14 18 I 132 LINEN WEAVER’S’ J 6-4ths. 7-4ths. 7-4ths Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 490 14 18 222 5 15 252 6 15 491 14 19 223 6 0 253 6 15 492 15 0 224 6 0 254 ,6 15 493 15 1 225 6 0 255 6 15 494 15 2 226 6 0 256 6 15 — — ~ 227 6 0 257 6 15 7-4 ths. » 228 6 0 258 6 15 Pf. s. P. 229 6 0 259 6 15 200 5 5 230 6 0 260 6 15 201 5 5 231 6 0 261 7 0 202 5 5 232 6 0 262 7 0 203 5 10 233 6 5 263 7 0 204 5 10 234 6 5 264 7 0 205 5 10 235 6 5 265 7 0 206 5 10 236 6 5 266 7 0 207 5 10 237 6 5 267 7 0 208 5 10 238 6 5 268 7 0 209 5 10 239 6 5 269 7 5 210 5 10 240 6 5 270 7 5 211 5 10 241 6 5 271 7 5 212 5 io 242 6 10 272 7 5 213 5 15 243 6 10 273 7 5 214 5 15 244 6 10 274 7 5 215 5 15 245 6 10 275 7 5 216 5 15 246 6 10 276 7 5 217 5 15 247 6 10 277 7 5 218 5 15 248 6 10 278 7 10 219 5 15 249 6 io 279 7 10 220 5 15 250 6 10 280 7 10 221 5 VS 251 6 15 28 1 *7 • 10 ASSISTANT 133 7-4ths. ► 7' Pf S, P. Pf. 282 7 10 312 283 7 10 313 284 7 10 314 285 7 10 315 286 7 10 316 287 7 15 317 288 7 15 318 289 7 15 319 290 7 15 320 291 7 15 321 292 7 15 322 293 7 15 323 294 7 15 324 295 8 0 325 296 8 0 326 297 8 0 327 298 8 0 32 S 299 8 0 329 800 8 0 330 301 8 0 331 302 8 0 332 303 8 5 333 S04 8 5 33 4 SO 5 8 5 335 30 6 8 5 386 307 8 5 337 308 8 5 338 309 8 5 389 310 8 5 340 3U 8 5 344 7-4ths. P. Pf s. R 10 342 9 5 10 343 9 5 10 344 9 5 10 345 9 5 10 346 9 5 10 347 9 5 10 348 9 10 10 349 9 10 10 350 9 10 15 351 9 10 15 35 2 9 10 15 3 53 9 10 15 354 9 10 15 3 55 9 10 15 356 9 10 15 357 9 15 15 358 9 15 0 359 9 15 0 360 9 15 0 361 9 15 0 36 2 9 15 0 363 9 15 0 364 9 15 0 365 10 0 0 366 10 0 0 36 7 10 0 0 368 10 0 5 369 10 0 5 370 10 0 5 374 5 0 0 4ths S. 8 8 8 8 S 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 134 LINEN WEAVER^ 7-4 ths. 7-4ths » r* 4 -4ths • Pf. S. p. Pf. _ S - P. Pf. S. P. 372 10 0 402 10 15 432 11 10 375 10 0 403 11 0 433 11 10 374 10 0 404 1 1 0 434 li 15 375 10 5 405 11 0 4 35 11 15 376 10 5 406 11 0 436 ll 15 377 10 5 407 11 0 437 11 15 378 10 5 408 11 0 438 ll 15 379 10 5 409 11 0 439 ll 15 380 10 5 410 11 0 440 11 15 381 10 5 411 11 0 441 ll 15 382 10 5 412 11 0 442 l i 15 383 10 5 413 11 5 443 ll 15 384 10 10 414 1 1 5 444 ll 15 385 10 10 415 11 5 445 12 0 386 10 10 416 11 5 446 12 0 387 10 10 417 11 5 447 12 0 388 10 10 418 1 1 5 448 I 2 0 389 10 10 419 11 5 449 12 0 390 10 10 420 11 5 450 12 o 391 10 10 421 1 l 5 451 12 0 39 2 10 10 422 1 1 5 4 52 12 0 8 95 10 15 423 11 10 453 12 0 894 10 15 424 11 10 45i 12 0 395 10 15 425 11 10 455 12 0 396 10 15 426 1 1 10 456 12 5 397 10 15 427 11 10 457 12 5 - 393 10 1 5 428 1 1 10 458 12 5 399 10 15 429 1 1 10 4 59 12 5 400 -10 1 5 430 1 1 10 460 12 5 401 10 15 431 11 LO 461 12 5 ASSISTANT. 135 7-4ths ' • 7 -4ths. 2 Ells, » Pf. S. P t Pf, S. P. Pf. S. R 462 12 5 492 13 0 240 5 10 463 12 5 493 13 0 241 5 10 464 12 5 494 13 0 242 5 10 465 12 5 495 13 0 243 5 10 466 12 5 496 13 0 244 5 15 467 12 10 497 13 0 245 5 15 468 12 10 498 13 5 246 5 15 46 9 12 10 499 13 5 247 5 15 470 12 10 500 15 5 00 rp CM 5 15 471 12 10 501 13 5 249 5 15 472 12 10 502 15 5 250 5 15 473 12 10 503 13 5 251 5 15 474 12 10 504 13 5 252 6 0 475 12 10 505 13 5 253 6 0 476 12 10 506 13 5 254 6 0 477 12 15 507 13 5 255 6 0 478 12 15 508 13 10 256 6 0 479 12 2 5 509 15 10 257 6 0 480 12 15 510 13 10 2 58 6 0 481 12 15 511 15 10 259 6 0 482 12 15 512 13 10 260 6 0 483 12 15 513 13 10 261 6 0 484 12 15 514 13 10 262 6 5 485 12 15 515 13 10 263 6 5 486 12 15 516 13 19 264 6 5 487 12 15 517 13 10 265 6 5 488 13 0 518 13 15 266 6 5 489 13 0 519 13 15 267 6 5 490 13 0 520 13 15 268 6 5 491 13 0 269 6 5 136 LINEN WEAVER^ 2 Ells • 2 Ells • 2 Ells • Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. Pf. S. P. 270 6 5 300 7 0 330 7 15 271 6 5 301 7 0 331 7 15 272 6 10 302 7 5 332 8 0 273 6 10 303 7 5 333 8 0 274 6 10 304 7 5 334 8 0 275 6 10 305 7 5 335 8 0 276 6 10 306 7 5 336 8 0 277 6 10 307 7 5 337 8 0 278 6 10 30S 7 5 338 8 0 279 6 10 309 7 5 339 8 0 280 6 10 310 7 5 340 8 0 281 6 10 311 7 5 341 1 8 0 282 6 15 312 7 10 342 8 5 283 6 15 313 7 10 343 8 5 284 6 15 314 7 10 344 8 5 285 6 15 315 7 10 345 8 5 286 6 15 316 7 10 346 8 5 287 6 15 317 7 10 347 8 5 288 6 15 318 7 10 348 8 5 289 6 15 319 7 10 349 8 5 290 6 15 320 7 10 350 8 5 291 6 15 321 7 10 351 8 5 292 7 0 322 7 15 352 8 10 293 7 0 323 7 15 353 8 10 294 7 0 324 7 15 354 8 10 295 7 0 325 7 15 355 8 10 296 7 0 326 7 15 356 8 10 297 7 0 327 7 15 357 8 10 29S 7 0 328 7 15 358 8 10 299 7 0 329 7 15 359 8 10 ASSISTANT 137 2 Ells. Pf. s. P. Pf. 360 8 10 390 361 8 10 391 362 8 15 392 363 8 15 393 364 8 15 394 365 8 15 395 366 8 15 396 367 8 15 397 368 8 15 398 369 8 15 399 370 8 15 400 371 8 15 401 372 9 0 402 373 9 0 403 374 9 0 404 375 9 0 405 376 9 0 406 377 9 0 407 378 9 0 408 379 9 0 409 38 0 9 0 4 10 38 1 9 0 411 332 9 5' 412 333 9 5 413 384 9 5 414 385 9 5 415 386 9 5 416 387 9 5 417 388 9 5 418 389. 9 5 419 2 Ells. P. Pf. s. p. 5 420 10 0 5 421 10 0 10 422 10 5 10 423 10 5 10 42| 10 5 10 425 10 5 10 426 10 5 10 427 10 5 10 428 10 .5 10 429 10 5 10 430 10 5 15 45 ] 10 5 15 432 10 10 15 433 10 10 15 434 10 10 15 435 10 10 15 436 10 10 15 437 10 10 15 438 10 10 1 5 439 10 10 15 4 40 10 10 0 441 10 10 0 442 10 15 0 443 10 15 0 444 10 15 0 445 10 15 0 446 10 15 0 447 10 15 0 448 10 15 0 449 10 15, 4 , Elk S. 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 s 138 LINEN WEAVER^ 2 Ells • 2 Ells. 2 ! Ells • Pf. S. p. Pf. S. P. Pf. s. P. 450 10 15 480 11 10 510 12 5 451 10 15 481 11 10 511 12 5 452 11 0 482 11 15 512 12 10 453 11 0 483 li 15 513 12 10 454 11 *o 484 ll 15 514 12 10 455 11 0 485 11 15 ’ 515 12 10 456 11 0 486 ll 15 516 12 10/ 457 11 0 487 11 15 517 12 10 458 11 0 488 1 1 15 518 12 10 4 59 11 0 4 89 ll 1 5 519 12 10 460 11 0 490 ll 15 520 12 . 10 461 11 0 491 ll 15 521 12 la 462 11 5 492 12 0 522 12 15 463 11 5 495 12 0 523 12 15 464 11 5 494 12 0 524 12 15 4 65 11 5 495 12 0 525 12 15 466 11 5 496 12 0 526 12 15 467 11 5 497 12 0 527 12 15 468 11 5 498 12 0 528 12 15 469 11 5 499 12 0 529 12 15 470 11 5 500 32 0 530 12 15 471 11 5 501 12 0 531 12 15 472 11 10 502 12 5 532 13 0 473 11 10 503 12 5 533 13 0 474 11 10 504 32 5 554 13 0 47 5 11 10 505 12 5 535 13 0 476 11 10 506 12 5 536 13 0 477 11 10 507 12 5 537 13 0 478 11 10 508 12 5 538 13 0 479 11 10 509 12 5 539 13 0 ASSISTANT 139 2 Ells. Pf. S. P. 2 Ells. Pf. S. P. 2 Pf. Ells, S. P. 540 13 0 547 13 5 554 13 10 541 13 0 548 13 5 555 13 10 542 13 5 549 13 5 556 13 10 543 13 5 550 13 5 557 13 10 544 13 5 551 IS 5 558 13 10 545 13 5 552 13 10 559 13 10 546 13 5 553 13 10 560 13 10 AW*?.-— Red ticks, particularly fine sets, should be warped in two different webs, the white in one web, and the blue or other colours in another; and beamed on two separate beams, in order that they may be dressed separately, to prevent the colour from soiling the white, and thereby deprive the cloth from having that beautiful appearance which it otherwise would have; the process is simple and easy, the one beam is lifted up upon the top of the loom during the dressing of the web below; after it is dressed, it is let down to the floor until the upper half is dressed: as to the placing of the beams during the operation of weaving, we leave it to the judgment of the operative for his own ease and conveniency, fyc, %c. 140 LINEN WEAVER’S Of Selling Heddles. As few mechanics, comparatively, are in posses- sion of variety of heddles sufficient for to weave a warp in any particular reed for which they may en- gage, the setting of cambs (or heddles,) to reeds in a proper manner, is certainly, to him, of the great- est utility ; for except the surplus heddles be exact- ly distributed, so as to make the yarn in the heddles stand exactly the same breadth as the yarn in the reed, the yarn which stands oblique, will be more stretched than that which stands parallel, and of course be more liable to break, and put the opera- tor to a very great disadvantage; for these reasons a few easy examples are given, which may prevent those who have little experience, from falling into errors of this kind. It is clear and evident to every weaver, that if the ..heddles are finer than the set of the reed, the super- numerary heddles must be set aside at regular inter- vals, so that the breadth of the warp in the heddles and reed may correspond and be exactly the same. For example^ supposing a weaver to receive a 1200 web of any breadth, and that he has only a set of 1400 heddles of the same breadth, in this case it is evident, that 2C0 heddles must be set aside; by reflection it is also evident that these 200 supernu- merary heddles must be set aside at equal distances, as nearly as possible; for if the whole were set aside ASSISTANT* 141 at one place, the breadth of the warp in the heddles would differ very materially from the breadth of the warp in the reed, and it is undoubtedly of the ut- most importance, that the breadth of the warp should 4>e as nearly equal as possible in every part of the loom, for if this is not the case, the threads which compose the warp, and have the greatest degree of obliquity, will be more elongated than those that are parallel to each other. Therefore when a finer set of heddles are to be adopted to a coarse reed, the super- fluous heddles which are not to be filled with w r arp, are equally divided among those that are to be filled, which is termed by the weavers, Setting of heddles . In the foregoing example, 200 heddles are to be set to reduce the number of heddles ( 1400) to agree with the number of the reed (1200,) and these 200 heddles, which are to be set aside, must be equally distributed among the 1200 heddles which are to be filled with the warp, which is only a case of di- rect proportion-— Thus, As the number of the heddles to be set = 200 Is to the number to be filled, ~ 1200 So is one heddle (or draft) to be set — 1 To the number to be filled = 6 From this it is evident that 6 drafts over the camb, or 24 heddles, are to be filled; and one draft over the camb, or 4 heddles, (a heddle on each leaf) set alternately, during the operation of draw- ing, throughout the whole breadth of the w'eb. 'LINEN WEAVER'S As both heddles and reed are calculated upon 37 inches, the process will answer for all breadths of warp; and as one of the terms in the proposition will always be unity, the following rules may be of use. 1st. Subtract the number of the reed from the number of the heddles^ the remainder or difference is the number of heddles to be set. 2d. Divide the number to be filled, which is the same as the number of the reed by the number to be set, and the quotient is the answer. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1200 heddles to be set to a 1000 reed. 1200 heddles. 1000 reed. Difference 200 ) 1000(5 drafts to be filled Sc 1 set. / ** 1000 if there is an odd half hundred in either heddles or reed, the whole must be reduced to half hundreds. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1400 heddles to be set to a 1050 reed, 28 the half hundreds in the h-eddies. 21 the half hundreds in the reed. Difference 7)21 (3 drafts to be filled and 1 set. 21 If there is an odd porter or porters in either bed* dies or reed, the whole must be reduced to porters. ASSISTANT. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1400 h eddies to a 1200 and 3 porter reed* 70 porters in the camb. 63 porters in the reed. Difference 7)63(9 drafts to be filled and 1 set. 63 It often happens that the number of heddles to be set, will not exactly measure the number to be fill- ed, but a remainder will be left, when this occurs* the remainder is to be added to the quotient.. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1500 heddles to a 1050 reed, 26 half hundreds in the camb. 21 half hundreds in the reed._ Difference 5)21 (4 20 Remainder 1 is added to the quotient 4* or the drafts to be, filled every fifth time, therefore 4 drafts are to be idled, and one set 4 times in suc- cession, and five are to be filled, and one set the fifth time. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1000 heddles to an 800 and 1 Porter reed* 50 porters in the camb. 41 porters in the reed. Difference 9)41(4 draughts 4 times, 36 5 drafts 5 times. 144 LINES WEAVER’S — # ; ' — Note . — It is necessary to observe, that a draft is once over the heddles, or a heddle on each leaf at one place. A simple mode is in use among weavers, which shall have a place here, for the use of those that have no arithmetic. Rule — First, know how many hundreds, half hundreds or porters of difference there is betwixt your camb and reed, and for every hundred, half hundred or porter there is of difference, draw a long stroke ; then begin at the right hand, doting down over the strokes a dote for every hundred, half-hundred or porter in your reed, then count up the dotes upon each stroke, the number of dotes upon each stroke signify the number of drafts drawn over the camb betwixt setting. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1400 heddles to a 10(|Q reed, the differ- ence is 400; draw -4 long strokes; the hundreds in your reed are 10, begin at A, and count down over the strokes 10, thus;. A . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 which shew that you must draw 3 drafts 2 times and set, and 2 drafts- 2 times and set, that is, 3 drafts and ASSISTANT, 145 set; 5 drafts and set; 2 drafts and set, 2 drafts and set, or thus: A 1 1 1 1 1 111 1 1 Which shews that you must draw 5 drafts and set, and 2 drafts and set, alternately; which is exactly the same only more divided. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1200 heddles to a 900^ reed, the differ- ence is 5 half hundreds, draw 5 strokes; the half hundreds in your reed are 19, begin at B and count down over the strokes 1 9 ; thus. B 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Which shews that you must draw 4 drafts 4 times and set, and 3 drafts 1 time and set. EXAMPLE. Suppose 1400 heddles to a 1200 and 2 porter; reed, the difference is 8 porters, draw 8 strokes; T 146 LINEN WEAVER’S the porters in your reed are 62 count down over the strokes 62; ', begin at C and thus, C 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 l I I I I 1 1 1 1 l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 Which shews that you must draw 8 drafts 6 times and set, 7 drafts 2 times and set. Note . — The foregoing examples will set any camb, provided the camb and reed be counted up- on the same breadth; it makes no matter how many leaves are in the camb, if you draw even drafts over the camb, and when you set, set a hed* die on every leaf. In the foregoing, the camb and reed are counted upon ell (or 37 inches.) The setting of harnesses to reeds is exactly the same as for heddles, only the part of the harness to be set, is taken up from the simples at their proper distances. For example, if the harness were a 1400, and the reed a 1200; 6 simples are counted over, and the 7 set, and so of any other. ASSISTANT, 147 Explanation of the Fourth Table . The following Table shews how to set cambs or heddles, to reeds, from a 5 to a 24 hundred camb, and from a 4 to a 24 hundred reed. Each page is divided into 8 columns: the first 2 columns con- tain the hundreds and porters of the camb upon ell or 57 inches; the next 2 columns marked on the head reed, contain the hundreds and porters of the reed upon the same breadth; the other four col- umns marked on the head drafts and times, contain the number of drafts and times you must draw be- twixt settings. Upon the head of the columns H. stands for hundreds, P. for porters, D. for drafts, T. for times. Suppose you are to set a camb to any reed, look in the first four columns for the number of the camb and reed, and in the same line of the other columns, you will find the drafts and times you ore to draw betwixt settings. EXAMPLE. Ifit is required to set a 10 hundred camb to an 800 and 2 porter reed, look in the 2 first columns for a 1000 camb and in the next two columns you will find an 800 and 2 porter reed, and in the same line of the oilier columns, you will find 5 drafts 6 times, and 6 drafts 2 times, which shewg that you must draw 5 drafts 6 times, and set, and G drafts 2 times, and bet, to be continued during the drawing of the web. 148 LINEN WEAVER’S ■ — ~ — • " ■' -• ~ — ' Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times. H. P. H. P. D. T. D. T. 5 O 5 O 5 O 5 0 5 O 5 1 5 1 5 I 5 1 5 1 5 2 5 2 5 2 5 2 5 2 5 3 5 3 5 3 5 3 5 3 5 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 6 O 6 O 6 O 6 O 6 0 4 0 4 1 4 2 4 3 4 4 4 1 4 2 4 3 4 4 5 O 4 2 4 3 4 4 5 O 5 1 4 5 4 4 5 O 5 1 5 2 4 4 5 O 5 1 5 2 5 3 5 O 5 1 5 2 5 3 5 4 4 l 5 3 7 2 11 1 24 1 4 4 5 2 7 1 12 1 25 1 4 3 5 1 8 1 12 1 26 1 4 2 6 1 8 2 13 1 27 1 4 1 6 3 8 1 13 1 28 1 5 1 6 2 9 1 14 1 29 1 O O 6 1 8 1 12 1 O O 5 1 6 2 8 2 O O O 0 5 2 6 3 O O 13 I O O 5 3 O O 9 1 O O O O 5 4 7 1 9 2 14 1 O O O 0 7 2 O 0 0 o O 0 X II./# p. i 1 i i l 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 4 0 O 0 O O O 0 o o 0 ASSISTANT, 149 Reed. H. P, 5 1 5 2 5 3 5 4 6 0 5 2 5 S 5 4 6 0 6 1 5 3 5 4 6 0 6 1 6 2 5 4 6 O 6 1 6 2 6 3 5 O 5 1 5 2 5 3 5 4 6 O 6 1 6 2 6 3 6 4 Drafts and Times. D. T. D. T. 5 4 6 1 9 2 14 I 30 1 5 3 7 1 9 1 15 1 31 1 5 2 7 3 10 1 15 1 82 1 5 I 7 2 8 2 16 1 33 1 2 5 2 1 3 5 4 1 4 1 6 1 7 1 10 1 16 1 34 1 6 1 7 3 10 1 15 I 0 O 6 2 O O 10 2 o o o o 6 3 8 1 O 0 16 1 O 0 6 4 8 2 n i o o 0 0 3 5 3 8 4 3 0 0 5 5 O 0 8 3 11 2 17 1 O O 150 LINEN WEAVERS Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times- H. P. H. P. D. T. D. T. 7 1 5 1 2 4 3 6 7 1 5 2 3 1 0 0 7 1 5 3 3 4 4 4 7 1 5 4 4 6 5 1 7 1 6 0 5 1 0 0 7 1 6 1 6 4 7 1 7 1 6 2 8 1 0 0 7 1 6 3 11 1 0 0 7 1 6 4 17 1 0 0 7 1 7 0 35 1 0 0 7 2 5 2 2 3 3 7 7 2 5 3 3 8 4 1 7 2 5 4 3 3 4 5 7 2 6 0 4 5 5 2 7 2 6 1 5 5 6 1 7 2 6 2 6 3 7 o w 7 2 6 3 8 3 9 1 7 2 6 4 1 l 2 12 1 7 2 7 0 17 1 18 1 7 2 7 1 36 1 0 0 7 3 5 3 2 2 3 8 7 3 5 4 3 7 4 2 7 S 6 0 3 2 4 6 7 3 6 1 4 4 5 3 7 S 6 o 4m 5 4 6 2 7 3 6 3 6 2 7 3 7 3 6 4 8 2 9 2 7 3 . 7 0 1 1 1 12 o f— i 3 7 I ] 8 1 0 0 7 S 7 2 37 1 0 0 J* p. 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 0 0 0 0 0 O 2 2 o 2 2 2 2 2 2 O 0 0 o 0 ASSISTANT, 151 Reed. Drafts and Times. H. P. D. T. D. % 5 4 6 O 6 1 6 2 6 a 6 4 7 O 7 1 7 2 7 S 6 0 6 1 6 2 6 2 ^ 6 3 6 4 6 2 6 3 6 4 7 O 7 1 7 2 7 2$ 7 3 7 4 7 O 7 1 7 2 7 2{ 7 3 2 1 3 6 3 I 4 3 5 3 6 1 8 1 12 1 18 1 38 1 3 0 3 5 4 O 4 2 4 2 5 2 3 8 3 3 4 4 5 1 6 1 7 3 8 6 9 2 13 1 7 O 9 O 12 2 15 O 19 0 3 9 4 3 4 7 5 4 6 3 7 4 9 3 0 0 19 1 0 O 0 O 4 4 0 O 5 1 5 5 6 4 4 2 4 6 5 4 0 O O O 8 2 9 3 10 2 O O O O O O 13 1 O O 0 0 } 1 52 LINEN WEAVER^ Camb. Reed. H. p. H. P. 8 0 7 4 9 0 7 0 9 0 7 1 9 0 7 2 9 0 7 H 9 0 7 3 9 0 7 4 9 0 8 0 9 0 8 1 9 0 8 2 9 0 8 ox 9 0 8 3 9 0 8 4 10 0 8 0 10 0 8 ] 10 0 8 2 10 0 8 oX 10 0 8 3 10 0 8 4 10 0 9 0 10 0 9 1 10 0 9 2 10 0 9 oX - 2> 10 0 9 3 10 0 9 4 1 1 0 8 a 11 0 8 l 1 1 0 8 2 1 1 0 8 ox li 11 0 8 3 Drafts and Times. D. T. D. T 39 0 0 0 3 l 4 l 4 0 0 0 4 3 5 5 5 0 0 0 5 4 6 3 6 3 7 3 8 0 0 0 10 3 11 3 14 a 0 0 17 o , 0 O 21 1 22 1 44 0 0 a 4 0 0 0 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 2 6 2 5 1 6 S 7 1 7 4 8 2 9 0 O 0 1 1 2 12 2 15 1 16 2 19 0 0 0 24 0 ' 0 0 49 0 0 0 3 2 a 1 3 13 2 1 3 10 4 3 3 3 4 2 5 5 4 7 ASSISTANT. 1,53 Camb* Reed. Drafts and Times. H* P. H, P. B, Te D. T. 11 0 8 4 4 0 0 0 ll 0 9 0 4 i 5 1 11 0 9 1 5 8 6 1 ll 0 9 2 5 1 6 7 11 0 9 6 2 7 1 ll 0 9 3 6 1 7 6 ll 0 9 4 8 5 9 1 ll 0 10 0 10 0 0 0 ll 0 10 1 12 1 13 5 ll 0 10 2 17 2 18 l H 0 10 2* 21 0 0 0 ll 0 10 3 21 I 27 1 ll 0 10 4 54 0 0 0 12 0 9 0 3 0 0 0 12 0 9 1 3 10 4 4 12 0 9 2 4 8 3 5 12 0 9 si 3 1 4 4 12 0 9 3 4 0 0 0 12' 0 9 4 5 5 4 6 12 0 10 0 5 0 0 0 12 0 10 1 5 3 6 6 12 0 10 2 6 4 7 4 12 0 10 si 7 0 0 0 12 0 10 5 7 3 8 4 12 0 10 4 9 0 0 0 12 0 11 0 11 0 0 0 12 0 11 1 14 0 0 0 12 0 11 2 19 0 0 0 12 0 11 9i * a 23 0 0 0 12 0 11 3 29 0 0 0 154 ? LINEN WEAVER'S Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times, H. P, H. p. D. T. D. T. 12 0 li 4 59 0 0 0 13 0 10 0 3 2 4 l 13 0 10 1 4 9 3 5 13 0 10 2 4 0 0 0 13 0 10 2 £ 4 4 5 I 13 0 10 3 4 7 5 5 13 0 10 4 5 10 4 I 13 0 11 0 6 1 5 1 13 0 11 1 6 7 7 2 13 0 11 2 7 7 8 1 13 0 11 oi 8 2 7 1 13 0 11 3 8 5 9 2 13 0 11 4 9 1 10 5 13 0 12 0 12 0 0 0 13 0 12 1 15 3 16 1 13 0 12 2 20 1 21 2 13 0 12 2§ 25 0 0 0 13 0 12 3 31 1 32 1 13 0 12 4 64 0 0 0 14 0 10 0 3 2 2 2 14 0 10 1 3 6 3 13 14 0 10 2 3 16 2 2 14 0 10 H 3 0 0 0 14 0 10 3 3 15 4 2 14 0 10 4* 3 10 4 6 14 0 1 1 0 3 1 4 2 14 0 11 I 4 0 0 0 14 0 11 2 5 5 4 8 14 0 11 n 5 r+ O 4 2 14 0 11 3 5 10 4 o 4a* o 1 kJ a P. 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 155 Reed. Drafts : and Times. H. P. D. T. D. T. 1 ! 4 5 7 6 4 12 0 6 0 0 0 12 1 6 2 7 7 12 2 8 6 7 2 12 2§ 8 2 9 1 12 3 9 0 0 0 12 4 10 2 11 4 23 0 15 0 0 0 IS 1 16 2 17 2 13 2 12 2 23 1 13 2a 27 0 0 0 IS 3 24 0 0 0 13 4 39 0 0 0 11 0 62 3 2 1 11 1 ( 5 18 2 1 11 2 5 15 4 8 11 2i 5 5 4 2 11 3 5 10 4 7 11 4 4 11 3 5 12 0 4 0 0 0 12 1 4 9 5 5 12 2 5 10 4 3 12 2a 5 0 0 0 12 3 5 9 6 3 12 4 6 9 5 2 13 0 6 1 7 1 13 1 7 6 8 3 13 2 9 3 8 5 13 oX a 9 0 0 0 13 3 10 5 9 2 156 LINEN WEAVER^ Drafts and Times. Carnb. Heed. H. P 9 H. P. 15 0 13 4 15 0 14 0 15 0 14 1 15 0 14 2 15 0 14 H 15 0 14 3 15 0 14 4 16 0 12 0 16 0 12 1 16 0 12 2 16 0 12 H 16 0 12 3 16 0 12 4 16 0 13 0 16 0 13 1 16 0 13 2 16 0 13 24 16 0 13 3 16 0 13 4 16 0 14 0 16 0 14 1 16 0 14 2 16 0 14 ^ 1 16 0 14 3 16 0 14 4 16 0 15 0 16 0 15 1 16 0 15 o 16 0 35 to 16 0 15 3 D. T. D. T. 12 3 n 3 14 0 0 0 18 3 17 1 24 0 0 0 29 0 0 0 37 1 36 1 74 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 3 15 4 4 3 10 4 8 4 4 5 3 3 12 2 5 4 0 0 0 4 2 5 1 5 10 4 4 5 11 6 2 5 3 6 2 6 8 5 5 6 8 7 8 7 0 0 0 8 8 7 1 9 0 0 0 10 2 .9 1 10 4 11 3 12 4 13 2 15 0 0 0 19 0 0 0 26 2 25 1 31 0 0 0 39 0 0 0 ASSISTANT. 157 Camb. Reed. H. P. H. R 16 0 15 4 17 0 13 0 17 0 13 1 17 0 13 2 17 0 13 H 17 0 13 3 17 0 13 4 17 0 14 0 17 0 14 1 17 0 14 2 17 0 14 oJL 17 0 14 3 17 0 14 4 17 0 15 0 17 0 15 1 17 0 15 2 17 0 15 2i 17 ' 0 15 3 17 0 15 4 17 0 16 0 17 0 16 1 17 0 16 2 17 0 16 ox " a 17 0 16 3 17 0 16 4 18 0 14 0 18 0 14 1 18 0 14 o 18 0 14 C) I 18 0 14 3 Drafts and Times. D. T. D. T. 79 0 0 0 3 3 4 i 3 10 4 9 4 13 3 5 5 3 6 2 4 0 0 0 4 11 5 5 5 2 4 1 5 13 6 1 6 7 5 6 6 4 5 1 6 11 7 1 7 S 6 3 8 1 7 1 8 5 9 4 10 5 9 3 10 2 11 1 11 6 12 1 13 5 14 1 16 0 0 0 20 3 21 1 27 2 28 1 33 0 0 0 41 1 42 1 84 0 0 0 3 1 4 1 4 14 3 5 4 0 0 0 5 I 4 6 4 12 5 5 158 LINEN WEAVER’S Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times* H. P. H. P. D. T. D. T. 18 0 14 4 5 10 4 6 18 0 15 0 5 0 0 0 18 0 15 1 5 8 6 6 18 0 15 o 6 12 5 1 18 0 15 oX 6 4 7 1 18 0 15 3 7 6 6 6 18 0 15 4 7 9 8 2 18 0 16 0 8 0 0 0 18 0 16 1 9 0 0 0 18 0 16 2 10 6 11 2 18 0 16 oX 11 0 0 0 IS 0 16 3 12 6 11 1 18 0 16 4 14 0 0 0 18 0 17 0 17 0 0 0 18 0 17 1 22 2 21 2 18 0 17 2 29 0 0 0 18 0 17 H 35 0 0 0 18 0 17 3 44 0 0 0 18 0 17 4 39 0 0 0 19 0 15 0 4 3 3 1 19 0 15 l 4 0 0 0 19 0 15 2 4 13 5 5 19 0 15 H 4 4 5 3 19 0 15 3 5 10 4 7 19 0 15 4 5 15 4 1 19 0 16 0 5 4 6 2 19 0 16 1 6 11 5 3 19 0 16 o dj 6 9 7 4 19 0 16 r> I 7 3 6 2 19 0 16 3 7 11 6 1 ASSISTANT 159 Camb. Reed. H. P. H. P. 19 0 16 4 19 0 17 0 19 0 17 1 19 0 17 2 19 0 17 9X 19 0 17 3 19 0 17 4 19 0 18 0 19 0 18 1 19 0 18 2 19 0 18 2X z a 19 0 18 3 19 0 18 4 20 0 16 0 20 0 16 1 20 0 16 2 20 0 16 gX 20 0 16 3 20 0 16 4 20 0 17 0 20 0 17 1 20 0 17 2 20 0 17 H 20 0 17 3 20 0 17 4 20 0 18 0 20 0 18 1 20 0 18 2 20 0 18 gX ^ 2 20 0 13 a Drafts and Times. D. T. D. T. 8 7 7 4 9 1 8 1 10 5 9 4 11 7 10 1 12 2 11 1 13 4 12 3 15 5 14 1 18 0 0 0 23 3 22 1 31 2 30 I 37 0 0 0 46 1 47 1 94 0 0 0 4 0 0 0 4 14 5 5 5 10 4 8 5 5 4 2 5 15 4 2 5 12 6 4 7 2 6 1 6 12 7 2 7 9 6 4 7 0 0 0 7 8 8 4 8 10 11 1 9 0 0 0 10 8 11 7 11 4 124 12 2 3 5 1 13 5 11 2 160 LINEN WEAVER’S Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times, H. P. H. F. D. T. D. T. 20 0 18 4 16 4 15 2 20 0 19 0 19 0 0 0 20 0 19 1 24 0 0 0 20 0 19 2 26 2 27 1 20 0 19 H 39 0 0 0 20 0 19 3 49 0 0 0 20 0 19 4 99 0 0 0 21 0 17 0 4 3 5 1 21 0 17 1 5 10 4 9 21 0 17 2 5 15 4 3 21 o 17 * a 5 15 6 3 21 0 17 3 5 14 6 3 21 0 17 4 6 8 5 8 21 0 18 0 6 0 0 0 21 0 18 1 7 7 6 7 21 0 18 2 7 12 8 1 21 0 18 2f 7 3 8 2 21 0 18 3 8 9 7 3 21 0 18 4 8 5 9 6 21 0 19 0 10 1 9 1 21 0 19 1 11 6 10 3 21 0 19 2 12 7 13 1 21 0 19 H 13 0 0 0 21 0 19 s 14 0 0 0 21 0 19 4 17 3 16 3 21 . 0 20 0 20 0 0 0 21 0 20 1 25 3 26 1 21 0 20 2 34 0 0 0 21 0 20 2-i 41 0 0 0 21 0 20 3 51 1 52 1 a ASSISTANT, 161 Camb. Reed, Drafts and Time s. H. P. ,H. P. D. T. D, T. 21 0 20 4 104 0 0 0 22 0 18 0 5 2 4 2 22 0 38 1 5 15 4 4 22 0 18 2 5 16 6 2 22 0 18 2i a 5 5 6 2 22 0 18 3 6 8 5 9 22 0 18 4 6 14 5 2. 22 0 19 0 f-r t 1 6 2 22 0 19 1 7 12 6 2 22 0 19 2 8 6 7 7 22 0 19 8 4 7 1 22 0 19 3 8 10 9 2 22 0 19 4 9 0 0 0 22 0 20 0 10 0 0 0 22 0 20 * 11 7 . 12 2 22 0 20 2 13 6* 12 2 22 0 20 14 2 13 I 22 0 20 3 15 5 14 . 2 22 0 20 4 18 2 17 4 22 0 21 0 21 0 0 0 22 0 21 1 27 2 26 2 22 0 21 2 36 2 35 I 22 0 21 9X 43 0 0 0 22 0 21 S 54 0 0 o 22 0 21 4 109 0 0 0 23 0 19 0 5 3 4 1 23 0 19 1 6 1 5 18 23 0 1:9 2 6 ' rr t 5 11 23 0 19 ^ a 6 4 5 O- 23 0 19 3 6 13 5 4 X kJ 162 LINEN WEAVER’S ■*— — — > — — — ■ Camb. Reed. Drafts and Times. H. P. H. Pe D. T. D. T. 23 0 19 4 7 3 6 13 23 0 20 0 7 j 2 6 1 23 0 20 1 8 3 7 11 23 0 20 2 8 11 7 2 23 0 20 OJ 9 1 8 4 23 0 20 3 9 7 8 5 23 0 20 4 10 5 9 6 23 0 21 0 11 1 10 1 23 0 21 1 12 7 11 2 23 0 21 2 14 S 13 5 23 0 21 at 15 1 14 2 23 0 21 5 16 3 15 4 23 0 21 4 19 1 18 5 23 0 22 0 22 0 0 0 23 0 22 1 28 3 27 1 23 0 22 2 38 1 37 2 23 0 22 oX a 45 0 0 0 23 0 22 3 56 1 57 1 23 o. 22 4 114 6 0 0 24 0 20 0 5 0 0 0 24 0 20 1 5 13 6 6 24 0 20 2 6 12 5 6 24 0 20 9JL 6 6 5 1 24 0 20 3 6 16 7 1 24 0 20 4 6 8 7 8 24 0 21 0 7 0 / 0 0 24 0 21 1 8 8 7 6 24 0 21 2 8 10 9 3 24 0 21 ox 9 3 8 o 24 0 21 3 9 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 163 Camb. Reed. H. P. H. P. 24 0 21 4 24 O 22 O 24 0 22 1 24 0 22 2 24 O 22 2 \ 24 0 22 3 24 0 22 4 24 0 23 0 24 0 23 1 24 O 23 2 24 O 23 2| 24 0 23 3 Drafts and Times. D. T. D. T. 10 10 9 i li 0 0 0 12 6 13 3 14 0 0 0 15 0 0 0 16 6 17 1 19 0 0 0 23 0 O 0 29 0 0 0 39 0 0 0 47 0 0 0 59 0 0 0 119 0 0 0 23 164 LINEN WEAVER’S Of the Weight of Linen Yarn, There are various methods of gristing linen yarn, in different places: some size by the weight of the spyndle, some by the weight of the hank, some by the number of hiers in a pound weight, and in some parts of Scotland the practice is followed of sizeing (or gristing,) by the old Tron or Dutch weight; but the uncertainty with which the real quantity of the Tron pound is attended, renders it very unfit for gristing, as different places differ in their weight; some places in the west of Scotland have 24 ounces in the pound, some 26 ounces, fyc. §c. It would answer the purpose much better, uf the Avoirdu- pois or English pound were always used, as the real quantity of it is generally ascertained throughout the country. Woollen may be sized in the same manner as the linen, as that which is hand spun is generally reeled upon the 90 inch reel or standard reel of the country — the woollen yarn spun upon machinery is made up in a different manner, the reel being 72 inches or 2 yards on the round, there- fore the spyndle divided into 1 2 equal parts of 600 yards each, 24 of which, is equal to one spyndle reeled upon the 90 inch reel, and may be gristed in the same manner. EXAMPLES. What is the weight of a spyndle of linen yarn when there is 12 hiers in the pound weight? ASSISTANT. 165 State the question thus: If 12 hiers weigh 16 ounces, how many ounces will 24 hiers or one spyndle weigh? H. Oz. H. 12 : 16 : s 24 24 64 52 12)584(52 OunceSo 56 24 24 " If 24 hiers or one spyndle weigh 52 ounces or 2 $1* how many ounces will 12 hiers weigh? H. Oz. H. 24 : 52 :: 12 12 24)584(16 ounces, 24 144 144 166 LINEN WEAVERS If the weight of the spyndle be 32 ounces, how many hiers in one pound weight? Oz. H. Oz. 32 : 24 : 16 16 144 24 32)384(12 hiers. 32 64 64 If the weight of the spyndle be 18 ounces, how many spyndles, hiers, cuts and threads in a pound weight? Oz. H. Oz. 18 : 24 : : ' 16 16 144 24 18)384(21 hiers. 36 24 18 < 6 2 18) 12(o cuts. 120 - 240 12 3 8)1440(80 threads. 1 44 0 ASSISTANT 167 If the weight of the spyndle be 9 ounces, how much yarn in a pound weight? Oz. 9)16(1 spyndle* 9 7 24 hiers in one spyndle* 28 14 9)168(18 hiers* 9 ■ 72 2 cuts in one hier. 9)12(1 cut. 9 5 120 9)560(40 threads. 56 0 168 linen weaver’s If there are 23 hiers in a pound weight, what is the weight of a spyndle? H. Oz. HV 23 : 16 : : 24 24 64 32 23)384(16 ounces. 23 ~ 134 138 \6 16 d rams in an ounce. 96 16 23)256(11 drains. 23 26 23 5 Parts. 23 If there are 48 hiers in a pound what is the weight of the hank? H. Oz. H. 48 16 6 48)96(2 ounces. 96 ASSISTANT. 169 Questions for Practice . Question —What is the weight of a spyndle, when there are 6 hiers in a pound weight? Ans. 64 ounces. What is the weight of a spyndle when there are S hiers in a pound weight? Ans. 48 ounces. What is the weight of a spyndle when there are 16 hiers in a pound weight? Ans. 24 ounces. What is the weight of a spyndle when there are 46 hiers in a pound weight? Ans. 8 ounces 5W drains. What is the weight of a hank when there are 64 hiers in a pound weight? Ans. l£ ounces. What is the weight of a spyndle when there are hiers in a pound weight? Ans. 6 pound 15 ounces. If a spyndle weigh 12 ounces, how many hiers are there in a pound weight? Ans. 52 hiers. If a spyndle weigh 4 ounces 10 drains, how many hiers are there in a pound weight? Ans. 85 hiers 5^ threads. How many hiers in 50 pound if the spyndle weighs 4 ounces? Ans. 4800 hiers or 200 spyndles. If a spyndle weigh 16 pounds, how many hiers are there in a pound weight? Ans. 1| hiers. If there are 24 pounds in a spyndle, what is the weight of 60 threads? Ans. 4 ounces. v 5 A/ 170 LINEN WEAVER’S If 60 threads weigh 4 ounces, how many ounces will 1350 inches weigh of yarn of the same size? Ans. 1 ounce. If 8 Guts weigh lj pounds, what is the weight of the spyndle? Ans. 9 pounds. If a spyndle of linen yarn weigh 1 pound 2 ounces, how many spyndles and hiers singled out will reach from Perth to Glasgow, the distance being 65 miles; and what is the weight of the whole thread? Ans. 7 spyndles 22 hiers 1 cut and 40 threads, and the weight of the whole thread 7 pounds 15 ounces 1|- drams. Note . — Let it be noticed that all the Tables and Questions are calculated by the Avoirdupois or English Pound. Explanation of the Fifth Table . The following table shews the weight of the spyndle and hank, and the spyndles and hiers in a pound when there are any number of hiers in a pound weight. The page is divided into 1 1 col- umns: the first column on the left hand contains the number of hiers in the pound weight, the 4 next columns contain the pounds, ounces, drams, and 10th parts of a dram in the spyndle; the 4 next columns contain the pounds, ounces, drams, and 10th parts of a dram in the hank, and the 2 ASSISTANT. right hand columns contain the spyndles and hiers contained in the left hand columns. On the head of the columns Sp. stands for spyndles, Hrs. for hiers. Lb. for pounds, Oz. for ounces, Dr. for drams, lOths. for tenth parts of a dram. EXAMPLE. Suppose 46 hiers in the pound weight, what is the weight of the spyndle and hank, and the num- ber of spyndles and hiers in 46 hiers. Look in the column marked on the head Hrs. and you will find 46, and in the same line of the other columns, you will find the weight of the spyndle, to be 8 ounces 5 drams and 5 tenths of a dram, and the weight of the hank 2 ounces 1 dram and 4 tenths of a dram ; and the quantity of yarn to be 1 spyndle 22 hiers, which is the net weight of the spyndle and hank, and the spyndles and hiers in. the first column. 172 LINEN weaver’s Hiers in a Pound Weight* Weight of a Spyndle. Hrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. loths. Lbs. 1 24 0 H- 16 0 2 12 0 ci 9 9 3 8 0 si 6 13 4 6 0 4i 5 5 5 4 12 5f 4 5 6 4 0 6i 3 11 7 3 6 7 4 3 3 8 3 0 H 2 13 9 2 10 9i 2 8 10 2 6 ioi 2 4 n 2 2 lif 2 1 12 2 0 13 1 13 14 1 11 15 1 9 16 1 8 17 1 6 f< l 5 J;? 4 o o o 9 o 11 o 5 12 13 0 1 13 3 O 2 10 6 6 9 14 6 0 8 6 9 0 9 0 0 0 6 0 4 0 3 8 1 0 2 7 2 0 8 6 7 4 1 5 2 O 6 8 3 0 1 6 4 3 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 o o 0 0 o 0 o 0 o o o o o o 0 o () Weight of a Hank. Spyndles and hiers • 1 a m a li). Oz. Dr. loths . Sp. Hrs. 0 0 0 0 i 0 0 0 0 ii 0 0 0 0 2 6 6 4 0 2f 0 0 0 0 3 11 6 8 0 si 8 0 0 0 4 5 5 3 0 H 3 3 : 2 0 5 1 7 3 0 si 0 0 0 0 6 14 12 3 0 si 13 11 4 0 7 12 12 8 0 t <1 12 0 0 0 8 11 4 7 0 si 10 10 6 0 9 10 I 7 0 9f 9 9 6 0 10 9 2 5 0 lOf 8 11 6 0 11 8 5 0 Ilf 8 0 0 0 12 7 6 l 0 13 6 13 7 0 14 ' 6 6 4 0 15 6 0 0 0 16 5 } 0 4 o 17 . » 0 18 •2> A u ■i# 0 i > _ I ASSISTANT. 173 H |f s "! Weight of a Weight of a S P{^ les ti Pound c ii u i and biers irr • i . bpyndle- Hunk* • i« Weight. lJ main. Hrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. lOtlis. Lbs. Oz. Dr. loths. Sp. Hrs. 20 1 A s 3 2 O 4 12 8 0 20 21 1 2 4 6 0 4 9 1 0 21 22 1 1 7 rr o 0 4 5 3 0 22 2,3 1 0 1 I l 0 4 2 9 o 23 24 1 0 0 0 0 4 0 0 1 0 25 0 15 5 8 0 S 13 4 1 1 26 0 14 12 3 0 3 11 1 1 v. 2 27 0 1 4 3 5 0 3 8 9 1 3 28 0 13 11 4 0 3 6 8 1 4 29 0 13 3 9 o 3 5 0 1 5 30 0 12 12 1 0 3 3 2 1 6 31 0 12 6 2 0 3 1 - 5 1 7 32 0 12 0 0 0 3 0 0 1 8 33 0 11 10 1 0 2 14 5 1 9 34 0 1 1 5 1 0 2 13 2 1 10 35 0 10 15 5 0 2 12 0 1 1 1 36 0 10 10 6 0 2 10 6 1 12 37 0 10 6 0 0 2 9 5 1 13 38 0 10 1 7 0 2 8 4 1 14 39 0 9 15 5 0 2 7 4 1 15 40 0 9 9 6 0 2 6 4 1 16 41 0 9 5 9 0 2 5 4 1 17 42 0 9 2 3 0 2 4 5 1 18 45 0 8 14 9 0 2 3 7 1 19 44 0 8 11 6 0 2 2 9 1 20 45 0 8 8 5 0 2 2 1 1 21 46 0 8 5 5 0 2 l 4 1 2-2 4 7. 0 O c % 2 i 0 o 0 6 1 o 4 H 0 0 ' > r> o f i {* i ) 0 A J ( i H 4 £ i i - 1 174? LINEN WEAVER’S Hiers in m , , c t) , Weight oi a a Found & Weight of a Hank. and hiers in a lb. Weight. S W' ndle - Hrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. loths. Lbs. Oz. Dr. 1 oths. Sp. Hrs 50 0 7 10 8 0 1 14 7 2 2 51 0 7 8 4 0 1 14 1 2 o 52 0 7 6 1 0 1 13 5 2 4 53 0 7 3 9 0 1 13 0 2 5 54 0 7 1 8 0 1 12 4 2 6 55 0 6 15 7 0 1 11 9 2 7 56 0 6 13 7 0 1 11 ,4 2 8 57 0 6 11 8 0 1 11 0 2 9 58 0 6 9 9 0 1 10 5 2 10 59 0 6 8 1 0 1 10 0 2 11 60 0 6 6 » 4 0 1 a 6 2 12 61 0 6 4 7 0 1 9 2 o 4 fa* 15 62 0 , 6 3 1 0 1 8 7 2 14 63 0 6 1 5 0 1 8 4 2 15 64 0 6 0 0 0 1 8 0 2 16 65 0 5 14 5 0 1 7 6 2 17 66 0 5 13 0 0 1 7 2 2 18 67 0 5 11 7 0 1 6 9 2 19 68 0 5 10 3 0 1 6 5 2 20 69 0 5 9 0 0 1 6 2 2 21 70 0 5 7 8 0 1 5 9 2 22 71 0 5 6 5 0 1 5 6 2 23 72 0 5 5 3 0 1 5 3 3 0 73 0 5 4 1 0 1 5 0 3 1 74 0 5 3 0 0 1 4 7 3 2 75 0 5 2 0 0 1 4 4 3 3 76 0 5 0 8 0 1 4 2 3 4 77 0 4 15 6 0 1 4 0 3 5 78 0 4 14 8 0 1 3 7 3 6 79 0 4 13 7 0 1 3 4 3 7 v\ ASSISTANT. 175 Hiers m , xr • i , n x Weight of a a Pound 0 ® ™ Weight of a Sp {” c * les Hank. and h, . e » in a lb. Weight. S py ,ldle * Hrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. lotlis. Lbs. Oz. Dr. lOths. Sp. Hrs. 80 0 4 12 8 0 1 3 0 3 8 81 0 4 11 8 0 1 2 9 3 9 82 0 4 10 9 0 1 2 7 3 « ia 83 0 4 10 0 0 1 2 5 3 1 1 84 0 4 9 1 0 1 2 3 3 12 85 0 4 8 3 0 1 2 0 3 13 86 0 4 7 4 0 1 1 8 3 1 4 87 0 4 6 6 0 1 1 6 3 15 88 0 4 5 8 0 3 1 4 S 16 89 0 4 5 0 0 1 1 2 3 17 90 0 4 4 2 0 1 1 0 3 18 91 0 4 3 5 0 1 0 8 3 19’ 92 0 4 2 8 0 1 0 7 3 20 93 0 4 2 1 0 1 0 5 3 21 94 0 4 1 3 0 1 0 3 3 22 95 0 4 0 6 0 1 0 1 3 23 96 0 4 0 0 0 1 0 0 4 0 97 0 3 15 3 0 0 15 7 4 1 98 0 3 14 7 0 0 15 5 4 2 99 0 3 14 0 0 0 15 4 4 3 100 0 3 13 4 0 0 15 2 4 4 101 0 3 12 8 0 0 15 1 4 5 102 0 3 12 2 0 0 14 9 4 6 103 0 3 11 6 0 0 14 7 4 7 1Q4 0 3 11 0 0 0 14 6 4 8 105 0 3 10 5 0 0 14 5 4 9 106 0 3 10 0 0 0 14 3 4 10 107 0 3 9 4 0 0 14 2 4 11 108 0 3 8 9 0 0 1 4 1 4 12 109 0 3 8 6 0 a 13 9 4 13 176 LINEN WEAVER’S Hiers in a Pound Weight. Weight of a Spyndie. Weight of a Hank. Spyndles and hiers in a lb. Hrs, Lbs- Oz. Dr. lOths. Lbs. Oz.Dr. lOths. Sp. Hrs. 1 10 0 3 7 8 0 0 13 8 4 14 1 1 1 0 3 7 3 0 0 13 7 4 15 3 12 0 3 6 8 0 0 13 6 4 16 113 0 3 6 3 0 0 13 4 4 17 114 0 3 5 9 0 0 13 3 4 18 1 15 0 3 5 4 0 0 13 2 4 19 116 0 3 5 0 0 0 13 1 4 20 117 0 3 4 5 0 0 13 0 4 21 118 0 3 4 0 0 0 12 9 4 22 119 0 3 3 6 0 0 12 8 4 23 120 0 3 3 1 0 0 12 ry 4 5 0 121 0 3 2 8 0 0 12 6 5 1 122 0 3 2 3 0 0 12 5 5 2 123 0 3 2 0 0 0 12 4 5 3 124 0 3 1 6 0 0 12 3 5 4 125 0 3 1 1 0 0 12 2 5 5 126 0 3 0 7 0 0 12 1 5 6 127 0 3 0 3 0 0 12 0 5 7 128 0 3 0 0 0 0 11 9 5 8 129 0 2 15 6 0 0 11 8 5 9 130 0 2 15 2 0 0 11 7 5 10 . 131 0 2 14 9 0 0 11 6 5 1 1 132 0 2 14 5 0 0 11 5 5 12 133 0 2 14 1 0 0 11 4 5 13 134 0 2 13 8 0 0 1 1 3 5 14 135 0 2 13 5 0 0 11 2 5 15 136 0 2 13 1 0 0 11 2 5 16 137 0 2 12 8 0 0 11 1 5 17 138 0 £) JbJ 12 5 0 0 11 0 5 18 139 0 2 12 1 0 0 10 9 5 19 ASSISTANT. 177 < Hlers in a Pound Weight. Weight of a Spyndle. Weight of a Hank. Spyndles and hlers in a lb. Hrs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. loths. Lbs. 0 z. Dr. loths. Sp. Hrs. 140 0 2 11 8 0 0 10 8 B 20 141 0 2 11 5 0 0 10 8 5 21 142 0 2 11 2 0 0 10 7 B 22 143 0 2 10 9 0 0 10 6 5 25 144 0 2 10 6 0 0 10 6 6 0 145 0 2 10 4 0 0 10 5 6 1 146 0 2 10 1 0 0 10 4 6 2 147 0 2 9 8 0 0 10 3 6 3 148 0 2 9 5 0 0 10 3 6 4 149 0 2 9 2 0 0 10 2 6 5 150 0 2 8 9 0 0 10 1 6 6 151 0 2 8 6 0 0 10 1 6 7 152 0 2 8 4 0 0 10 0 6 8 153 0 2 8 1 0 0 10 9 6 9 154 0 2 7 9 0 0 9 9 6 10 155 0 2 7 6 0 0 9 9 6 11 156 0 2 7 3 0 0 9 8 6 12 157 0 2 7 2 0 0 9 7 6 13 158 0 2 6 8 0 0 9 .6 6 14 159 0 2 6 6 0 0 9 5 6 15 160 0 2 6 4 0 0 9 5 6 16 As the Avoirdupois pound is subdivided no far- ther than drams, and the dram in the Table, is sup- posed to be divided into ten parts, to help this in- conveniency, take a piece of wire, or any metal of a cylindrical form, and equal thickness, the weight of one dram, and divide it into ten equal parts, each of these parts will represent a 10th of a dram, 2 will be 2- 10th. 5 3-10ths.; and so on till the weight be ascertained with accuracy. 5 z 178 LINEN WEAVER^ Of the Splits on any net Breadth, Scotch and Irish reeds are generally made upon 37 inches, except cambric reeds, which are made upon 34 inches, and holland reeds which are made upon 40 inches, but they are now almost entirely disused, and reeds on 37 inches, (which is the mea- sure of the Scotch ell,) adopted as the universal standard. The fineness, or what is termed among Weavers, the set of the web, is ascertained by the number of splits upon a given breadth. In Scotland, Ireland, and parts of England, reeds are divided into hun- dreds, and the hundreds into five parts of twenty splits each, called Porters, For example, the hun- dreds contained on 37, 40, or 34 inches, is termed the set of the reed. In Lancashire and the neighbouring Counties, the mode of counting reeds is very different. In Manchester and Bolton, reeds are counted by the number of biers in 24J inches, these biers contain 19, but more frequently 20 splits, or what is term- ed there, dents; what is called a bier in England, corresponds with the Scotch Weavers’ Porter, and a dent is exactly the same as the Scotch Weavers’ Split. At Stockport, the reeds are counted by the number of ends or threads in one inch; conse- quently, the dents or splits in two inches, are the number of the reed. For example, a 60 reed is 60 threads on two inches, or 30 dents (splits) in one inch, and 1080 dents or splits in a yard, or eleven hundred and 10 splits on the Scotch ell of 37 inches. ASSISTANT. 179 It appears from an act of Parliament, passed in the first year of the reign of His Majesty King George II. (1727,) that beer or (bier,) was gener- ally understood for score or (20,) which may be the reason that the Scotch and English Weavers correspond although under different names, with the same number (20,) bier, porter, or score. 1 shall quote the 13 section of the act. £S Be it further enacted, that from and after the (C first day of November, (1727,) every Weaver “ shall at the end of every such piece of cloth, “ which he shall weave, or cause to be weaved, “ run, or cause to be run, a coarse thread through “ every two hundred threads of the warp of the “ said cloth, so as to distinguish the number of 4< hundreds of threads in the breadth of the said “ cloth; and also another coarse coloured thread “ as aforesaid, within a quarter of an inch of the 6i former. In like manner through every forty “ threads of the warp of the said cloth, so as to “ distinguish the number of biers, or (scores) of “ threads in the breadth of the said cloth; and in “ case any Weaver shall omit to weave, or cause “ to be weaved, such threads aforesaid, or shall so <£ mark his cloth with a coloured thread, as to “ make it appear to contain more threads in the “ breadth than it really does, he shall for every sc such offence,' being thereafter convicted in man- “ ner after mentioned, forfeit a sum of not more “ than £5 nor less than twenty shillings, to the u use of the informer, to be levied and recovered £< in such manner as is herein after mentioned.” The Scotch ell on which reeds are generally made, is divided into 16 equal parts, called nails 180 LINEN WEAVER’S or 16ths, and the breadth of the web is expressed by the number of nails or 16ths which it occupies of the reed; and if a web is required to be any number of nails on the breadth of the reed, and no allowance made for the sinking of , the cloth, this is termed among Weavers ell in the shot, or so many nails in the shot . To find how many Splits of any Reed is upon any Breadth . Rule . — Multiply the number of Splits upon an ell of the given reed, by the nails in the breadth required, and divide by 16, the nails in an ell, the quotient is the splits upon the breadth required. EXAMPLES. Question— How many splits of a 1000 reed will a web fill, if it is made 18 nails or 9-8 ths broad? Reed. 1000 18 Nails in the breadth. 8000 1000 Nails in an ell 16)18000(1 125 splits of the reed. 16 20 . 16 40 32 SO SO ASSISTANT. 181 Same question another ways How much of a 1000 reed will a web fill to be ||ths broad, thus, equal to Jhhs?«— Multiply by the upper fraction, and divide by the under fraction* Reed. 1000 9 upper fraction, under fraction 8)900Q 1125 splits of the reed. How many splits of a 1000 reed will a web fill, if it is made 20 nails or 5 ths broad ? Reed. 1600 20 Nails in the breadth. Nails in an ell 16)52000(2000 splits of the reed. 52 000 Same question another way i How many splits of a 1600 reed will a web to be made 4ths or 20 nails fill ? 4 Reed. 1600 5 upper fraction, under fraction 4)8000 2000 splits of the reed. The foregoing questions reversed If 1125 splits fill exactly ^ths of the reed, what set is the reed upon ell? 1125 splits on §ths. 8 under fraction. upper fraction 9)9000 1000 splits upon elL 182 LINEN WEAVER’S If 1125 splits fill exactly 18 nails of the reed, what set is the reed upon ell? 1125 splits in 18 nails, 16 nails in an ell. 6750 1125 nails in the reed 18)18000 1000 splits upon ell. If 2000 splits fill exactly 20 nails of the reed, hat set is the reed upon ell? 2000 splits in 20 nails. 16 nails in an ell. 12000 2000 nails on the reed 20)32000(1600 splits upon ell, 20 120 120 00 If 2000 splits fill exactly |ths of the reed, what set is the reed upon ell? 2000 4 under fraction. upper fraction 5)8000 1 600 splits upon ell. Suppose you have a number of reeds made upon difterent breadths, such as upon 34, 40, 37 ; and 50 ASSISTANT. 183 inches, and would know what they are upon any other breadth; write the question thus, as in sim- ple proportion: — If a reed is 16 hundred upon 4o inches, what is it upon 37 inches? Note .—- Observe here, that the answer must be less than the supposition, and of course, the greater term must be made the divisor; state the question thus® In. In. H. As 40 : 37 : : 16 16 222 37 40)592(14 hundreds. 40 192 160 32 5 40)?6o(4 porters. 160 Ans. 14 hundreds and 4 porters. Question reversed: — If a reed is 14 hundreds and 1 porters upon 37 inches, what is it upon 40 inches? In. In. H. P. 37 : 40 : : 14 :4 5 porters in a hundred. 74 40 57)2960(80 porters or 16 hundred. 184 LINEN WEAVER^ If a reed is 1200 on ell, what is it upon 60 inches? In. In. H. 37 : 50 : : 12 12 37 ) 600 ( 1 6 hundreds. 37 230 222 8 5 37)40(1 porter. 37 3 s 20 3 7)6 0(l split. 37 and |^ths of a split. If there are 900 splits on 12 nails or I_£ths of a 1200 reed, how many splits are upon 18 nails of the same set ? N. N. H. 12 : 18 :: 900 900 12)16200(1350 splits on 18 nails. 12 42 36 60 60 O ASSISTANT. 185 Question reversed: — If there are 1350 splits on 18 nails or -H|ths of a 1200 reed, how many splits is upon 12 nails of the same set? N. N. Splits* 19 : 12 :: 1350 ' ' 12 18)16200(900 splits, 162 00 Questions for Practice . How many splits of a 1 300 reed will a web fill if It is made 19 nails broad? Ans. I543f splits. How many splits of a 1400 reed will a web fill if it is made | ths broad? Ans. 2100 splits. How many splits of a 1 6f hundred reed will a web fill if it is made J|ths broad? Ans. ig 56J splits. If 154SJ splits fill 19 nails of the reed what set is the reed upon ell? Ans. 3 300 splits. If 2 1 hundred splits fill six quarters of the reed* what set is the reed on ell? Ans. 14 hundreds. If 1856J splits fill ||ths or 18 nails of the reed* what set is the reed on ell? Ans. 16 j reed. If a reed is 18 hundred on 40 inches* what is it upon 37 inches? Ans. 16 hundred* 5 porters* 5 splits. If a reed is 12 hundred on 60 inches* what is it on ell? Ans. 7 hundred and 2 porters. If a reed is 12 hundred on 40 inches, what set is it on 34 inches? Ans. 10 hundred and 1 porter. How many hundreds^ porters, and splits in a Stockport 60 reed? Ans. 11 hundreds, 10 splits. a a 6 186 LINEN WEAVER'S How many splits in a Stockport 1 20 reed ? Ans* 2220 splits. If there are 1200 splits on jths of a 1 £00 reed, how many splits is on ||ths qf the same set? Ans. 1800 splits. If 1950 splits fill A7 tbs of a 24 hundred reed, what set is the reed on ell ? Ans. 24 hundreds on -ell. Explanation of the Sixth Table , The following Table shews how many splits is upon any nett i breadth, (the reed being on 37 in- ches.) Each page is divided into 6 columns ; the first column contains the hundreds of the reed; the other 5 columns contain the number of splits upon the breadths, marked on the head of the columns. On the head of the columns H. Reed stands for the hundreds of the reed ; S. stands for splits, EXAMPLE. * Suppose a 14 hundred ll-8ths, look in the first column for 14 hundred, and in the same line of the other columns under 1 l-8ths you will find 1925 splits which is the splits on that breadth. Note . — By adding the splits of any two sets to- gether %t any breadth, and then halving them, gives the splits of the half set betwixt them, upon that breadth. For the comparison of reeds, se£ the scale upon the plate, Fig. I. ASSISTANT. 187 Breadths.^ 1 0 "nr 1 1 T7> 5 4 1 3 1 6 H. Reed. s. s. s. s. s. 5 ' 281 312 345 37 5 406 6 337 37 5 412 450 48 7 7 393 347 481 525 568 8 450 500 550 600 650 9 506 562 612 675 731 10 562 625 687 750 812 11 618 687 756 825 893 12 675 750 825 900 975 13 731 812 l 893 975 1056 14 787 875 962 1050 1137 15 .843 937 1031 1125 1218 16 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 17 956 1062 1168 1275 1381 18 1012 1125 1237 1350 1462 19 1068 1187 1306 1425 1543 20 1125 1250 1375 1500 1624 21 1181 1312 1443 1575 1705 22 1237 1375 1512 1650 1786 23 1293 3437 1581 1725 1868 24 1350 1500 1650 1800 195Q 188 / LINEN weaver’s Breadths.^ 1 5 TV 4 4 1 7 1 6 9 8 H. Reed. So s. So s. S. 5 4S7 468 500 531 562 6 525 562 600 637 . 675 7 612 656 700 743 787 8- 700 750 800 850 900 9 787 845 900 956 1012 10 875 937 1000 1062 1125 11 962 1031 1100 4 1168 1237 12 1050 1125 1200 1275 1350 IS 1187 1218 1300 1381 1462 14 1225 1312 1400 1487 1575 15 1312 1406 1500 1593 1687 16 1400 1500 1600 1700 1800 17 1487 1593 1700 1806 1912 18 1574 1686 1800 1912 2024 v 19 1662 1780 1900 2018 2137 20 1750 1874 2000 2124 2250 21 1837 1968 2100 2230 2362 22 1924 2062 2200 2336 2474 23 2012 2156 2300 244$ 2587 24 2100 22 50 2400 2550 2700 ASSISTANT, Breadths.f l l 8 6 4 7 4 8 ¥ H. Reed. S. s. s. s. s. 5 625 689 750 875 1000 6 750 825 900 1050 1200 7 875 962 1050 1225 1400 8 1000 1100 1200 1400 1600 9 1125 1237 1350 1575 1800 10 1250 1375 1500 1750 2000 11 1375 1512 1650 1925 2200 12 1500 1650 1800 2100 2400 IS 1625 1787 1950 2275 2600 14 1750 1925 2100 2450 2800 15 1875 2062 2250 2625 3000 16 2000 2200 2400 2800 3200 17 2125 2337 2550 2975 3400 18 2250 2474 2700 3150 3600 19 2375 2612 2850 3325 3800 20 2500 2750 3000 3500 4000 21 2625 2887 3150 3675 4200 22 2750 3024 3300 3850 4400 23 2875 3162 3450 4025 4600 24 3000 3300 3600 4200 480© 190 LINEN WEAVER’S Of the length of Reels, It appears, that before passing the act of Parlia- ment, in the first year of the reign of His Majesty King George II. (1727,) (Entitled an Act for the better regulation of the Linen and Hempen Manu- factures, in that part of Great Britain, called Scotland;) that hand reels were generally used, a method of making up yarn so uncertain and preca- rious, that those who used them, could not possi- bly be exact in telling their number of threads; by which means, the buyer was often fraudulently cheated out of the real quantity of yarn which he ought to have, and could not discover the fraud until he came to sort the yarn for use, when it would be too late to have recourse upon the seller. Another evil which prevailed in the country, and gave an opportunity for fraudulent dealing, was the use of reels of different lengths, which are now entirely exploded, and a uniform standard in- troduced, by the 24th, George II. Severe punish- ments are inflicted, and penalties levied upon all persons, selling or buying any reels not according to the standard, and also upon those buying or selling yarn reeled upon such reels, foreign yarn excepted. I shall quote the 13th and 14th sections of the act. §13* “ And be it further enacted by the autho- - C 4-i S. P. s. P. s. P. Se P. S' a 5 22 19 24 12 26 5 27 16 29 8 6 27 11 29 10 31 .10 33 8 35 6 • .7 32 S 34 9 36 15 38 19 41 4 8 36 15 39 7 42 0 44 1 1 47 2 9 41 6 44 5 47 5 50 2 52 19 30 45 18 49 4 52 10 55 13 58 17 ■11 ' 50 10 54 2 57 15 61 5 64 15 12 55 2 59 1 63 O 66 16 70 IS 13 59 14 63 19 68 5 72 7 76 10 14 64 6 68 18 73 10 77 19 82 8 15 68 18 73 16 78 15 83 10 88 6 3 6 ; 73 lf| ; 78 15 84 0 89 2 94 4 17 -78 1 83 9 39 5 94 13 100 1 18 82 13 88 11 94 10 100 4 105 19 19 87 5 : 93 10 r 99 15 105 16 111 17 20 91 17 98 8 105 0 111 7 117 15 21 96 10 103 12 110 5 117 10 124 0 22 101 0 108 7 115 10 122 8 129 8 23 105 12 113 6 120 15 128 0 135 5 24 110 2 318 4 126 0 133 11 141 S 216 LINEN WEAVER’S Breadths. •> y 6 4 o 4 - H. ~ — ~ ~ Reed. P. S. P . S. P. S. P. s. P. s. 5 32 12 35 16 89 0 45 18 52 0 6 39 3 42 19 46 16 55 2 62 8 7 45 13 50 2 54 12 64 5 72 16 8 52 4 57 6 62 8 73 8 83 4 9 58 14 64 9 70 4 82 12 93 12 10 65 5 71 12 78 0 91 16 104 0 11 71 15 78 15 85 16 100 9 114 8 12 78 6 85 19 93 12 110 3 124 16 13 84 16 93 2 101 8 119 6 135 4 14 91 7 100 5 109 4 128 10 145 12 15 97 17 107 8 117 0 137 14 156 0 16 104 8 114 12 124 16 146 17 166 8 17 110 18 121 15 132 12 156 1 176 16 18 117 9 128 18 140 8 165 5 187 4 19 123 19 136 1 148 4 174 8 197 12 20 130 10 143 5 156 0 133 12 208 0 21 137 0 151 0 163 16 192 15 218 8 22 143 9 158 3 171 : 12 201 19 2 28 16 23 150 0 165 7 179 8 211 2 239 4 24 156 10 172 11 189 4 220 6 249 12 ASSISTANT* 217 Of the Quantity of Yarn required to make Cloth count any number of Shots at any Breadth . For the purpose of ascertaining nearly the quantity of weft upon any piece of Cloth if evenly wove* a small instrument, called a web-glass, has been long in use in Scotland, and of later years introduced into England and Ireland, it is made upon the principle of a Microscope and Micrometer, for while it mag- nifies the threads, it at the same time shews a cer- tain number of threads upon a certain extent, or a thread for every hundred of the set of the web, at any breadth the set of the web is counted upon 5 if the diameter of the hole is made to that particular breadth, such as 37 inches, 40 or >34 inches, &c. The diameter of the hole is always the 200 part of the inches that the set of the reed counted upon* The English glasses are upon the same principle, but adapted to their different mode of counting. As it is often the case that cloth is unevenly woven, or more shots upon one place than upon another, the cloth must be glassed at one, two, three, four, or five places: for Example, if the cloth is count- ing 10 on one place, 12 on another, 13 on a third, 15 on a fourth, add together 10 , 12 , 13, and 15, and the sum of the parts is 50, which divided by 4, the number of times the cloth was glassed, quote 12 "! shots, which is the average shots upon the piece of cloth ; again, suppose the shots upon & piece of cloth to be 12$ 14, 16, 17f and 18 shots, the amount when added is 78, which divided by 5, the number of times the web was glassed, quote 1 5|. or nearly 16 shots, after glassing at the different places, and finding the average shots, look as di- rected in the Table for the shots, and the quantity of yam upon the ell will easily be found, e e 7 218 LINEN WEAVER’S Explanation of the Ninth Table . The following Table shews how much yarn it will require to one ell of cloth, counting from 3 to SO shots upon the glass, standing the breadth when weaved, marked on the head of the columns, from -^ths. ^ths. at the same proportion as the breadths in Table sixth. The page is divided into 3 parts: the first part contains the shots upon the glass, the other 2 parts contain the spyndles, hiers, cuts, threads, and seventh parts of a thread requir- ed for the ell, counting the number of shots on the first column, at the breadths marked on the head of the columns: Sh. stands for shots, Sp. for spyn- dies, H. for hiers, C. for cuts, Th. for threads, Sv» for sevenths of a thread. EXAMPLE. Suppose a f th. weaved to count 18 shots upon the glass : Look in the first column and you will find 18 shots, and in the same line of the other columns under |iths. you will find the quantity of weft required to be 12 hiers, 7 threads, and 5 sevenths of a thread, which is the weft required for one ell. Note . — This Table will only do for Cloth that stands the net breadth when weaved, and by adding the weft for any two numbers together, and then halving it, will give the quantity of weft required for the shots and half shots betwixt them : for ex- ample, by adding the weft required for one ell of Cloth, counting 16 and 17 shots together, and halv- ing it, gives the quantity of weft required for one ell of Cloth, counting 1 6j shots on the glass. ASSISTANT. 219 Breadths. T 9 gths. ygths. Sh, Sp. Ho c. Tk Sv» Sp. H. c. Th. Sv, 3 0 0 1 61 2 0 0 1 87 6 4 0 1 0 1 5 0 1 0 37 1 5 0 1 0 62 0 Q 1 0 106 3 6 0 1 1 2 3 0 1 1 55 5 7 0 1 1 62 6 0 2 0 5 0 8 0 2 0 3 2 0 2 0 74 2 9 0 2 0 63 5 0 2 1 23 4 10 0 2 1 4 1 0 2 1 92 6 11 0 2 1 64 4 0 3 0 42 I 12 0 3 0 5 0 0 3 0 111 3 13 0 3 0 65 3 0 3 1 70 5 14 0 3 1 5 6 0 4 0 20 0 15 0 3 1 66 2f| 0 4 0 89 2 16 0 4 0 6 5 0 4 1 38 4 17 0 4 0 67 1 0 4 1 107 6 18 0 4 1 7 4 0 5 0 67 1 19 0 4 1 68 0 0 5 0 116 4 20 0 5 0 8 3 0 5 1 65 6 21 0 5 0 68 6 0 6 0 15 1 22 0 5 1 9 2 0 6 0 84 3 23 0 5 1 69 5 0 6 1 33 5 24 0 6 0 10 1 0 6 1 103 0 25 0 6 0 70 4 0 7 0 52 2 26 0 6 1 - 11 0 0 7 1 1 4 27 0 6 1 71 3 0 7 1 70 6 28 0 7 0 11 6 0 8 0 20 1 29 0 7 0 72 2 0 8 0 89 3 220 LINEN WEAVER'S Breadths. i^ths, fths. Sh. $p. H. c. Th. Sv. Sp . H. c. Th. Sv. 3 0 0 1 102 0 0 1 0 3 0 4 0 1 0 56 0 0 1 0 84 0 5 0 1 i 10 2 0 1 1 45 0 6 0 1 l 84 2 0 2 0 6 0 7 0 2 0 38 2 0 2 0 87 0 8 0 2 0 112 2 0 2 1 48 0 9 0 2 1 66 2 0 3 0 9 0 10 0 3 0 20 2 0 3 0 90 0 li 0 3 0 94 2 0 3 1 51 0 12 0 3 1 48 2 0 4 0 12 0 13 0 4 0 2 2 0 4 0 93 0 14 0 4 0 76 2 0 A 1 54 0 15 0 4 1 SO 2 0 5 0 15 0 16 0 4 1 104 2 0 5 0 96 0 17 0 5 0 58 2 0 5 1 57 0 18 0 5 1 12 2 0 6 0 18 0 19 0 5 1 86 2 0 6 0 99 0 20 0 6 0 40 2 0 6 1 60 o 21 0 6 0 114 2 0 7 0 21 0 *22 0 6 1 68 2 0 7 0 102 o 23 0 7 0 22 2 0 7 1 63 0 24 0 7 0 96 2 0 8 0 24 0 25 0 7 1 50 2 0 8 0 105 0 26 0 8 0 0 4 2 0 8 1 66 0 27 0 8 0 78 2 0 9 0 27 o 28 0 8 1 32 2 0 9 0 108 0 29 0 8 I 106 2 0 9 1 69 0 30 0 9 0 60 2 0 10 0 30 0 ASSISTANT, 221 Breadths, yfths. §ths. Sh. Sp. XL C. Th. Sv. Sp, . XL a Th. Sv. 3 0 1 0 23 4 0 1 0 44 4 4 0 1 0 111 3 0 1 1 19 3 5 0 1 1 79 2 0 1 1 114 2 6 0 2 0 47 1 .0 2 0 89 1 7 0 2 1 15 0 0 2 1 64 0 8 0 2 1 102 6 0 3 0 38 6 9 0 8 0 70 5 0 3 1 13 5 10 0 3 1 38 4 0 3 1 108 4 11 0 4 0 6 3 0 4 0 83 3 32 0 4 0 93 6 0 4 1 58 2 13 0 4 1 61 5 0 5 0 33 1 14 0 4 1 29 4 0 5 I 7 0 15 0 4 1 117 3 0 5 1 101 6 16 0 5 0 85 2 0 6 0 76 5 17 0 5 1 53 1 0 6 1 51 4 18 0 6 0 21 0 0 7 0 26 3 19 0 6 0 108 6 0 7 1 1 2 20 0 6 1 76 5 0 7 1 96 1 21 0 7 0 44 4 0 8 0 71 0 22 0 7 1 12 3 0 8 1 45 6 23 0 7 1 100 2 0 9 0 20 5 24 0 8 0 68 1 0 9 0 115 4 25 0 8 1 36 0 0 9 1 90 3 26 0 9 0 3 6 0 10 0 65 2 27 0 9 0 91 5 0 10 1 40 1 28 0 9 1 59 4 0 11 0 15 0 29 0 9 1 27 3 0 11 0 109 6 30 0 9 1 115 2 / 0 11 1 34 5 222 linen weaver's I . Breadths.yfths. fths. Sh. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv. 3 0 1 0 63 3 0 1 0 84 0 4 0 1 i 44 4 0 1 i 72 0 5 0 2 0 25 5 0 2 0 60 0 6 0 2 1 26 6 0 2 l 48 0 7 0 3 0 8 0 0 3 0 36 p 8 0 3 0 109 1 0 3 1 24 0 9 0 3 1 90 2 0 4 0 12 0 10 0 4 0 71 3 0 4 1 0 0 11 0 4 1 52 4 0 4 1 108 0 32 0 5 0 33 5 0 5 0 96 0 13 0 5 1 14 6 0 5 1 84 0 14 0 5 1 116 0 0 6 0 72 0 15 0 6 0 97 1 0 6 1 60 0 16 0 6 1 78 2 0 7 0 48 0 27 0 7 0 59 3 0 7 1 36 0 18 0 I 1 40 4 0 8 0 24 0 19 0 8 0 21 5 0 8 1 12 0 20 0 8 1 2 6 0 9 0 0 0 21 0 8 1 104 0 0 9 0 108 0 22 0 9 0 85 1 0 9 1 96 0 23 0 9 1 66 2 0 10 0 84 0 24 0 10 0 47 3 0 10 1 72 0 25 0 10 1 28 4 0 11 _ \ 0 60 0 26 0 li 0 9 5 0 11 1 48 0 27 0 11 0 110 6 0 12 0 36 0 28 0 11 1 92 0 0 12 1 24 0 29 0 12 0 73 1 0 13 0 12 0 SO 0 12 1 54 2 0 13 1 0 0 ASSISTANT, 223 Breadths, jfths. T ^-ths. Sh. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv. 3 0 1 0 103 5 0 1 1 3 3 4 0 1 i 98 2 0 2 0 4 4 5 0 2 0 92 6 0 2 i 5 5 6 0 2 1 87 3 0 3 0 6 6 7 0 3 0 82 0 0 3 1 8 0 8 0 3 1 76 4 0 4 0 9 1 9 0 4 0 71 1 0 4 1 10 2 10 0 4 1 65 5 0 5 0 11 3 11 0 5 0 60 2 0 5 1 12 4 12 0 5 1 54 6 0 6 0 13 5 13 0 6 0 49 3 0 6 1 14 6 14 0 6 1 44 0 0 7 0 16 O 15 0 7 0 38 4 0 7 1 17 1 16 0 7 1 33 1 0 8 0 18 2 17 0 8 0 27 5 0 8 1 19 3 18 0 8 1 22 2 0 9 0 20 4 19 0 9 0 16 6 0 9 1 21 5 20 0 9 1 11 3 0 10 0 22 6 21 0 10 0 6 0 0 10 1 24 0 22 0 10 1 0 4 0 11 0 25 I 23 0 10 1 115 1 0 11 1 26 2 24 0 11 0 109 5 0 12 0 27 5 25 0 11 1 104 2 0 12 1 28 4 26 0 12 0 98 6 0 13 0 29 5 27 0 12 1 93 3 0 13 1 30 6 28 0 13 0 88 0 0 14 0 32 0 29 0 13 1 82 4 0 14 I 33 1 30 0 14 0 77 1 0 15 0 34 2 224 ? ' linen weaver’s Breadths, f ths. y ths. Sh. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv. Sp. H. c. Th. Sv, 3 0 1 1 42 6 0 1 1 82 2 4 0 2 0 57 1 0 2 0 109 5 5 0 2 l 71 3 0 3 0 17 1 6 0 3 0 85 5 0 3 1 44 4 7 0 3 1 100 0 0 4 0 72 0 8 0 4 0 114 2 0 4 1 99 3 9 0 5 0 8 4 0 5 1 6 6 10 0 5 1 22 6 0 6 0 34 2 11 0 6 0 31 1 0 6 1 61 5 12 0 6 1 51 3 0 7 0 89 1 13 0 7 0 65 5 0 7 1 116 4 14 0 7 1 80 0 0 8 1 24 0 15 0 8 0 94 2 0 9 0 51 3 16 0 8 1 108 4 0 9 1 78 6 17 0 9 1 2 6 0 10 0 106 2 18 0 10 0 17 1 0 11 0 13 5 19 0 10 1 31 3 0 11 1 41 1 20 0 11 0 45 5 0 12 0 68 4 21 0 11 1 60 0 0 12 1 96 0 22 0 12 0 74 2 0 13 1 3 3 23 0 12 1 88 4 0 14 0 SO 6 24 0 13 0 102 6 0 14 1 58 2 25 0 13 1 117 1 0 15 0 85 5 26 0 14 1 1 1 3 0 15 ,1 113 1 21 0 15 0 25 5 0 16 1 20 4 28 0 15 1 40 0 0 17 0 48 0 29 0 16 0 54 2 0 17 1 75 3 30 0 16 1 68 4 0 18 0 102 6 ASSISTANT. 225 Breadths.fths. |ths. Sh. Sp. H. c* Th. Sv. Sp 5 H. c. Th. Sv» 3 0 2 0 i 2 0, 2 0 86 4 4 0 2 i 41 5 0 3 0 35 3 5 0 s 0 82 1 0 3 1 104 2 6 0 4 0 2 4 0 4 1 53 1 7 0 4 1 4S 0 0 5 1 2 0 8 0 5 0 83 3 0 6 0 70 6 9 0 6 0 3 6 0 7 0 19 5 10 0 6 1 44 2 0 7 1 88 4 11 0 7 0 84 5 0 8 1 37 3 12 0 8 0 5 1 0 9 0 106 2 13 0 8 1 45 4 0 10 0 n n 1. 14 0 9 0 86 0 0 11 0 4 0 15 0 10 0 6 3 0 11 1 72 6 16 0 10 1 46 6 0 12 1 21 5 17 0 11 0 87 2 0 13 0 90 4 18 0 12 0 7 5 0 14 0 39 3 19 0 12 1 48 1 0 14 1 108 2 20 0 13 0 88 4 0 15 1 57 1 21 0 14 0 9 0 0 16 1 6 0 22 0 14 I 49 3 0 17 0 74 6 23 0 15 0 89 6 0 18 0 23 5 24 0 16 0 10 2 0 18 1 92 4 25 0 16 1 50 5 0 19 1 41 3 26 0 17 0 91 1 0 20 0 110 2 27 0 18 0 11 4 0 21 0 59 1 1 28 0 18 1 52 0 0 22 0 8 0 29 0 19 0 92 8 0 22 1 76 6 30 0 20 0 12 6 0 23 1 25 5 ;! F f 7 226 linen weaver’s Bread ths.fths. ^ths. Sh. Sp. H. a Th. Sv» Sp. H. c. Th. Sv, 3 ,0 2 i 41 4 o 3 0 82 2 4 0 3 i 15 3 0 4 0 109 5 5 o 4 0 109 2 0 ' 5 1 17 1 6 0 5 0 83 1 0 6 1 44 4 7 0 6 0 57 0 0 7 1 72 0 S 0 7 0 30 6 0 8 1 34 3 9 0 8 0 4 5 0 9 1 61 6 10 0 8 1 98 4 0 10 1 189 2 11 0 9 1 72 3 0 11 1 116 5 12 0 10 1 46 2 0 13 0 24 1 13 0 11 1 20 1 0 14 0 51 4 14 0 12 0 114 0 0 15 o 79 O 15 0 13 0 87 6 0 16 0 106 3 16 0 14 0 61 5 0 17 1 13 6 17 0 15 0 35 4 0 18 1 41 2 18 0 16 0 9 3 0 19 1 68 5 19 0 16 1 103 2 0 20 1 96 1 SO 0 17 0 77 1 0 22 0 ' 3 4 SI 0 18 0 51 0 0 23 0 31 a 22 0 19 0 24 6 1 0 0 58 3 23 0 19 1 118 5 l 1 0 85 6 24 0 20 1 92 4 1 2 0 113 2 25 0 21 1 66 3 1 3 1 120 5 26 0 22 1 40 2 1 4 1 48 * 1 27 0 23 1 14 1 1 5 1 75 4 28 1 0 0 108 0 1 6 1 103 0 29 1 1 0 81 6 ' 1 8 0 10 3 SO 1 2 0 55 5 1 9 0 37 6 ASSISTANT. 22 1 Of the x making of Webs Half Linen , Half Cotton , and the Discount upon Water Twist . In the manufacture of Linen Cloth, cheapness, beauty, and durability, ought certainly to be the principal object of the Manufacturer’s study. To attain this, different methods have been tried, such as setting a little heavy, and putting on fine weft, and a few shots on the glass above the set; making the warp and weft of an equal fineness, and to count the same shots with the set on the glass | likewise the warp heavy for the set, the weft light, &c. — Also the mixing of Cotton with Linen has been tried with success, sometimes the warp made of Linen and sometimes the weft, but if the weft is made Linen and the warp Cotton, the Weaver must have his shuttle made so that it draw the weft shot well in at the selvages, as they are particularly difficult to make neat, and if proper care is not taken, they will resemble the teeth of a saw, but when the weft is Cotton this is not the case; the principal fabrics with which Cotton is mixed are Damasks, Diaper, Sheeting, Shirting, and Wincie. In Damasks, Diaper, and Wincie, the Cotton used must be soft or Mull spun yarn, and of a size so as to make the figures of just and proportionable di- mensions, for if the weft was too small, the figures would be too short, and if the weft be too heavy, the figure will be too long, therefore care must be taken that the size of the weft for every set be pro» portioned, to make the figures uniform and just in all their parts ; Wincie needs only weft to make a stout Cloth, and cover the warp, but Sheeting and Shirting\ ought to be made in a different way. 228 LINEN WEAVERS so that it may resemble Sheeting and Shirting made wholly of Linen yarn, viz. instead of soft spun Mull yarn, the weft must be good, evenly, well twined Water Twist, and if the warp is Linen, it must be made about half a set stronger than in common cases, when both warp and weft are Linen ; Sheeting and Shirting manufactured in this- way, can be made considerably cheaper, having a fine appearance, and nearly equal to Linen in du- rability, and except by a very minute investigation, cannot be distinguished from Cloth wholly made of Linen yarn, even by the best judges, (See the set- ting Table for the size of yarns necessary.) Gen- erally there is a stated price upon Cotton yarn, termed among Manufacturer’s the List Price , and the prices vary by the per centage taken off, or put upon the List Price; Thus , supposing two Manu- facturers were meeting, and the one asking the other how the Cotton yarn was selling, the other answers, it was selling yesterday at 45 per cent, offj but to-day, I understand, it is selling at 47f. The meaning of this is, that yesterday it was selling at 45 per cent, discounted off the List Price , and to-day 47|, which is per cent, cheaper than it was yesterday, or yesterday it was selling, £45 off each s£loo value, and to-day £ 47 10 shillings off each j&IOO, &c. &c. EXAMPLES. Shewing an easy method of finding the discount upon yam, or any sum of money at any discount, when there is no respect to time. Rule .— Multiply the sum to be discounted by the rate per cent., and strike off by a dote the two ASSISTANT, 229 right hand figures, and reduce them always until they be reduced to the lowest denomination of cur- rent money ; subtract the figures struck off upon the left hand from the original sum, and the pro- duct is the net cost, or sum, after the discount is taken off Note ,—- If there is any value upon the right hand figures after the reduction, it is so small that in business it is neglected, EXAMPLE. If the List or Stated price of a pound weight of Cotton yarn be six shillings, what is the net cost if 50 per cent, be discounted off? Shillings, m e 50 — Sum,^^, 6s . Ode 3*00 Discount, Ss. 0 d a Net Cost, 3s. od. Example 2d. at 5s. per lb, discount 45 per cento ? Shillings, 5 S u m 5s. 0 d» 45 Discount, 2s. 3d. 25 Net Cost, 2s , 9 A 20 2 J 25 12 3*00 230 LINEN WEAVER’S — - - --- i - - - - ■ -- - - Example 3d. at 6s, 6d, per lb. discount 47§ per cent. ? S. D. ■| of— 6 6 47i 505 6 IS o o 5’ 08 9 12 1*05 4 ? 20 remainder. Example 4th. at 12s. per lb. discount 42f per cent.? S. } Of— 12 42f 24 1 2s, 0 d. 0 q. 48 Discount, 5 0 3 504 Net Cost, 6 ii i — 3 5* 07 12 "84 4 3*26 ASSISTANT* 281 Questions for Practice . If the List price of one pound of Cotton yarn be 85 . 9d. and the discount 55 per cent., what is the net cost? Ans. 3s . 11 \ 7 0 40 5 10 1 2 7 2 5 8 i 2 6 3 42 6 1 0 2 7 1 5 11 0 2 6 2 44 6 3 2 2 7 0 6 1 2 2 6 1 46 6 5 2 2 6 1 6 3 1 2 5 2 48 6 7 1 2 5 3 6 5 0 2 5 O 50 6 9 0 2 5 1 6 6 3 2 4 2 52 6 10 3 2 4 2 6 8 2 2 3 3 54 7 0 2 2 4 1 6 10 X 2 8 2 56 7 3 S 2 4 0 7 1 0 2 3 1 58 7 6 0 2 4 0 7 3 2 2 3 I 60 7 8 3 2 4 0 7 6 1 2 3 1 62 8 0 1 2 4 0 7 9 3 2 S 1 64 8 4 0 2 4 i 8 1 1 2 3 1 66 8 7 2 2 4 1 8 4 3 2 3 2 68 8 11 0 o w 4 2 8 8 1 2 3 2 70 9 2 3 2 4 2 8 11 3 2 3 S 236 LINEN WEAVER'S 15 Per Cent. 17| Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb. Per Sp. No. s. D. F. s. D. F. s. D. F. S. D. F. 20 3 4 3 3 0 ct 3 3 3 2 li 3 22 3 7 2 2 ii 3 3 6 1 2 10 3 24 3 10 0 2 10 2 3 8 2 2 9 2 26 4 0 2 2 9 2 S 11 0 2 8 3 28 4 3 0 2 8 3 4 1 2 2 7 3 SO 4 5 2 2 8 1 4 4 0 2 7 1 32 4 8 1 2 7 2 4 6 2 2 6 2 34 4 10 3 2 7 0 4 9 0 2 6 1 36 5 1 1 2 6 3 4 11 2 2 5 3 38 5 3 3 2 6 1 5 2 Q 2 5 1 40 5 6 1 2 5 3 5 4 2 2 5 0 42 5 8 3 2 5 2 5 7 0 2 4 3 44 5 11 2 2 5 1 5 9 2 - 2 4 2 46 6 1 1 2 4 3 5 11 0 2 4 0 48 6 2 3 2 4 0 6 0 3 2 3 1 50 6 4 2 2 3 3 6 2 1 2 3 0 52 6 6 1 2 3 0 6 4 0 2 2 1 54 6 8 0 2 2 3 6 5 2 2 2 0 56 6 10 2 2 2 2 6 8 0 2 1 3 53 7 1 0 2 2 2 6 10 2 2 1 2 60 7 3 2 2 2 l 7 1 0 2 1 2 62 7 7 0 2 2 2 7 4 o 2 1 2 64 7 10 2 2 2 2 7 7 2 . 2 1 3 66 8 1 3 2 2 3 7 11 0 2 2 0 68 8 5 1 2 2 3 8 2 1 2 2 0 70 8 8 2 2 3 0 8 5 2 2 2 l / ASSISTANT 237 20 Per Cent. 22| Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb. Per Sp. No. S. D. F. S, D. F. S. D. F. S. D. F, 20 s 2 2 2 10 3 3 l 1 2 9 2 22 3 4 3 2 9 3 3 3 2 2 8 2 24 3 7 1 2 8 2 3 6 0 2 7 2 26 3 9 3 2 7 3 3 8 1 2 6 3 28 4 0 0 2 7 0 3 10 2 2 6 0 30 4 2 2 2 6 2 4 0 3 2 5 2 32 4 4 3 2 5 3 4 3 1 2 4 3 34 4 7 1 2 5 1 4 5 2 2 4 1 36 4 9 3 2 4 3 4 7 2 2 4 0 38 5 0 0 2 4 2 4 10 1 2 3 2 40 5 2 2 2 4 0 5 0 2 2 3 1 42 5 4 3 2 3 3 5 2 3 2 3 0 44 5 7 1 2 3 2 5 5 i 2 2 2 46 5 8 3 2 3 0 5 6 3 2 2 1 48 5 10 2 2 2 2 5 8 1 2 1 3 50 6 0 0 2 2 0 5 9 3 2 I 1 52 6 1 3 2 1 2 5 11 2 2 0 3 54 6 3 1 2 1 1 6 1 0 2 0 2 56 6 5 3 2 1 0 6 3 I 2 0 1 58 6 8 0 2 0 3 6 5 2 2 0 0 60 6 10 2 2 0 3 6 8 0 2 0 0 62 7 1 3 2 0 3 6 31 0 2 0 0 64 7 4 3 2 1 0 7 2 0 2 0 1 66 7 8 0 2 1 1 7 5 1 2 0 2 68 7 11 1 2 i 1 7 8 2 2 0 2 70 8 % o 4* 2 1 2 7 li 2 3 0 3 238 LINEN WEAVER’S -? ’ , r ... 26 Per Cent. 27^ Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb. Per Sp. No. S. D. F. S. D. F. S. D. F. s. D. F. 20 3 0 0 2 8 2 2 10 3 2 7 1 22 3 2 i 2 7 2 3 l 0 2 6 2 24 3 4 2 2 6 2 3 3 1 2 5 1 26 3 6 3 2 5 3 2 5 1 2 4 2 28 3 9 0 2 5 0 3 7 2 2 4 0 30 4 11 1 2 4 2 3 9 3 2 3 2 32 4 1 2 2 3 3 3 11 3 2 2 3 34 4 3 3 2 3 2 4 2 0 2 2 2 36 4 6 0 2 3 0 4 4 1 2 2 0 38 4 8 1 2 2 3 4 6 2 2 1 3 40 4 10 2 2 2 1 4 8 2 2 1 2 42 5 0 3 2 2 1 4 10 3 2 1 1 44 5 3 0 2 2 G 5 1 0 2 1 0 46 5 4 2 2 1 1 5 2 2 2 0 2 48 5 6 0 o w 0 3 5 3 3 2 0 0 30 5 7 2 2 0 2 5 5 1 1 1 1 2 52 5 9 0 1 11 3 5 6 3 1 lb 0 54 5 10 2 1 11 2 5 8 1 1 10 3 56 6 0 3 1 1 1 2 5 10 2 1 10 3 58 6 3 0 1 11 1 6 0 2 I 10 2 60 6 5 1 1 11 1 6 2 3 1 10 2 62 6 8 1 1 11 1 6 5 2 1 40 2 64 6 11 1 1 11 2 6 8 2 1 10 3 66 7 4*0 l 1 11 2 6 11 2 1 10 3 68 7 5 1 1 11 3 7 2 1 1 10 3 70 7 8 1 1 11 3 7 5 1 1 10 O ASSISTANT. 239 30 Per Cent. 32^ Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb 9 Per Sp„ No. S. D. R S. D. R S. D. ] R S. IX R 20 2 9 3 2 6 i 2 8 l 2 5 l 22 2 11 8 2 5 2 2 10 2 2 4 2 24 3 1 3 2 4 2 3 0 2. 2 3 2 26 3 4 0 2 3 3 8 2 2 2 2 3 28 3 6 0 2 3 0 3 4 2 2 2 0 30 3 8 0 2 2 2 3 6 2 2 1 3 32 3 10 1 2 2 0 3 8 2 2 X 0 34 4 0 1 2 1 2 3 10 2 2 0 3 36 4 2 2 2 L 1- 4 0 3 2 0 1 38 4 4 2 2 1 0 4 2 3 2 0 0 40 4 6 3 2. 0 2 4 4 3 1 11 2 42 4 8 3 2 0 l 4 6 3 1 11 1. 44 5 30 S 2 0 1 4 8 3 1 10 3 46 5 0 1 1 11 3 4 10 0 1 10 1. 48 5 1 3 1 11 1 4 11 2 1 10 0 50 5 3 0 1 10 3 5 0 3 1 9 2 52 5 4 2 1 10 1 5 2 1 I 9 1 54 5 5 3 1 10 0 5 3 2 1 9 0 56 5 8 0 1 10 0 5 6 0 1 9 0 58 5 10 0 1 9 3 5 7 2 1 9 0 60 6 0 1 1 9 3 5 9 2 1 9 0 62 6 3 0 1 9 3 6 0 1 1 9 O' 64 6 5 3 1 10 0 6 3 0 1 9 0 66 6 8 2 1 10 0 6 5 3 1 9 1 68 6 11 1 1 10 1 6 8 2 I 9 1 70 7. 2 1 1 10 1 6 11 0 1 9, 2. 240 LINEN WEAVER’S 35 Per Cent. 37| Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb. Per Sp. No* S. D. F. S. D. F. S. D. F. S. D. F. 20 2 1 2 4 l 2 6 0 2 3 0 22 2 9 1 2 3 1 2 8 0 2 2 i 24 2 11 1 2 2 1 2 9 3 2 1 i 26 3 1 0 2 1 3 2 11 3 2 0 3 28 3 3 0 2 1 0 3 1 2 2 0 0 SO 3 5 0 2 0 3 3 3 2 1 11 3 32 3 7 0 2 0 0 3 5 1 1 11 1 34 3 8 3 1 11 3 3 7 1 1 10 3 36 3 10 3 1 11 2 3 9 0 1 10 2 38 4 0 3 1 11 1 3 11 0 1 10 1 40 4 2 3 1 10 3 4 1 0 1 10 0 42 4 4 3 1 10 > 3 4 2 3 1 9 3 44 4 6 3 I 10 2 4 4 2 1 9 2 46 4 8 0 1 10 0 4 5 3 1 9 1 48 4 9 1 1 9 2 4 7 0 1 8 3 50 4 10 2 1 9 1 4 8 1 1 8 1 52 4 11 3 1 8 3 4 9 2 } 8 0 54 5 1 1 1 8 2 4 10 3 1 7 3 56 5 3 0 1 8 2 5 0 1 1 7 2 58 5 5 0 1 8 1 5 2 2 1 7 1 60 5 7 0 1 8 1 5 4 2 1 7 1 62 5 9 2 1 8 2 5 7 0 1 7 1 64 6 0 1 1 8 2 5 9 2 1 7 2 66 6 2 3 1 8 2 6 0 0 1 7 3 68 6 5 2 1 8 2 6 2 2 1 7 3 70 6 8 0 1 8 3 6 5 0 1 8 0 ASSISTANT* 241 40 Per Cent. 42|- Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. Per Lb. Per Sp. No. S. IX F. ■S. D. F. S. D. F. s. D. F. 20 2 4 3 2 2 0 2 3 3 2 i 0 22 2 6 3 2 1 i 2 5 1 2 0 i 24 2 8 2 2 0 i 2 7 0 1 31 i 26 2 10 1 1 11 3 2 8 3 1 10 3 28 8 0 0 1 11 1 2 10 2 1 10 1 30 3 1 3 1 10 3 3 0 1 1 10 0 32 3 s 3 1 10 1 3 2 0 1 9 1 34 3 5 2 1 10 0 3 3 3 1 9 0 36 3 7 1 1 9 3 3 5 2 1 8 3 38 3 9 0 1 9 1 3 7 1 1 8 2 40 3 10 3 1 9 0 3 9 0 1 8 1, 42 4 0 3 1 3 0 3 10 2 1 8 0 44 4 2 2 1 8 3 4 0 1 1 7 3 46 4 3 3 1 8 1 4 1 2 1 7 1 48 4 4 S 1 7 3 4 2 3 1 7 0 50 4 6 0 1 7 2 4 3 3 1 6 3 52 4 7 1 1 7 0 4 0 1 6 1 54 4 8 2 1 7 0 4 6 0 1 6 1 56 4 10 1 1 6 3 4 7 8 1 6 0 58 5 0 0 1 6 2 4 9 2 1 6 0 60 5 1 3 1 6 S 4 11 1 1 5 3 62 5 4 1 1 6 3 5 1 0 1 5 3 64 5 6 3 1 8 3 5 3 3 1 5 3 66 5 9 0 1 7 0 5 6 1 1 6 0 68 5 11 2 1 7 0 5 8 2 1 6 1 - 70 6 1 3 1 7 0 5 10 3 K 6 1 H h 242 LIKEN WEAVER S 45 Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. No. S. D. F. S. D. F. 20 2 2 2 1 11 3 22 2 4 0 l 11 1 24 2 5 3 1 10 1 26 2 7 2 1 9 3 28 2 9 0 l 9 1 30 2 10 3 1 9 0 32 3 0 1 1 8 2 34 3 2 0 l 8 1 36 3 3 3 1 7 3 38 3 5 1 1 7 2 40 3 7 0 l 7 1 42 3 8 2 l 7 1 44 3 10 1 1 7 0 46 3 11 o <4* 1 6 2 48 4 0 2 1 6 1 50 4 1 2 l 6 0 52 4 2 2 1 5 2 54 4 3 3 l 5 2 56 4 5 2 l 5 1 58 4 7 0 1 5 0 60 4 8 3 1 5 0 62 4 11 0 l 5 0 64 5 1 0 1 5 1 66 5 3 1 l 5 1 68 5 5 2 l 5 2 70 5 7 3 1 5 2 47| Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp. S. D. F. S. D. F. 211 1 10 2 2 3 1 10 2 4 2 19 1 2 6 0 1 8 3 2 7 2 1 8 1 2 9 0 1 8 0 2 10 3 17 2 3 0 1 17 1 3 13 17 0 3 3 2 1 6 3 3 5 0 1 6 2 3 6 0 1 6 1 3 8 1 16 1 0 9 1 15 3 3 10 1 15 2 3 11 1 15 0 4 0 1 v 1 4 3 4 12 14 2 4 3 0 1 4 1 4 4 2 1 4 1 4 6 0 1 4 1 4 7 3 1 4 1 4 10 1 14 1 5 0 2 1 4 2 5 2 2 1 4 2 5 4 3 1 4 3 O to ASSISTANT. 243 50 Per Cent. 52 1 Per Cent. Per Lb. Per Sp 0 Per Lb. Per Sp. No. S. D. Po s. D. F. S. D. R s. D. R 20 2 0 0 1 9 2 i 10 3 1 8 2 22 2 i 2 1 9 0 2 0 1 1 8 0 24 2 3 0 1 8 1 2 1 3 1 7 2 26 2 4 2 1 7 3 2 3 © 1 © 3 28 2 6 0 1 7 1 2 4 2 1 6 1 SO 2 7 2 1 7 0 2 6 0 I 6 0 32 2 9 © 1 6 2 2 7 2 1 5 S 84 2 10 2 1 6 1 2 8 8 1 5 2 36 3 0 © 1 6 © 2 10 1 1 5 1 38 3 1 2 1 5 3 2 11 3 1 5 0 40 3 3 0 1 5 2 3 1 0 1 4 3 42 3 4 2 1 5 1 3 2 2 1 4 2 44 3 6 0 1 5 1 3 4 0 1 4 1 46 8 7 0 1 5 0 3 5 1 1 4 0 48 3 8 0 1 4 2 3 5 8 1 S 3 50 S 9 © 1 4 1 3 © 3 1 3 2 52 3 10 0 1 4 © 3 7 3 1 3 0 54 3 11 0 1 3 3 3 8 3 1 3 0 56 4 © 2 1 S 2 S 10 0 1 3 0 58 4 2 0 1 3 2 3 11 2 1 2 3 60 4 3 2 1 3 2 4 1 0 1 2 8 62 4 5 2 1 3 2 4 2 3 1, 2 S 64 4 7 2 1 3 2 4 4 3 1 3 0 66 4 9 2 1 3 3 4 6 3 1 3 0 6.8 4 11 2 1 3 3 4 8 2 I 3 0 70 5 1 2 1 4 0 4 10 2 I 3 0 244 LINEN WEAVER’S Of the Comparison of Reeds. Although reeds are generally made upon 37 in- ches, it is very necessary in the Customary Weaving line, to know when a reed is made upon any one breadth what it is upon any other breadth ; as in some places, and some particular kinds of work, reeds made upon different breadths are used ; and a Customary Weaver may have a number of reeds made upon different breadths beside him, and not have one made upon the particular breadth neces- sary, at the time ; therefore, by looking at the fol- lowing Table, he may see at one glance, what reed comes nearest to the set required. For example, suppose a 1100 reed on 37 inches, is the reed wanted and cannot be got at the time, but a 1000 on 34 inches can be got, which is within about 10 splits of being exactly a 1100 on 37 inches, and will answer the purpose equally well : for the Ex- planation of the different modes of counting reeds, see (page 178,) where it is shown that although under different names, in different places the plan of counting, and terms given to the divisions differ, yet they all nearly correspond in the different parts of the Country. -vi, v-%, To find when a reed is made upon any one breadth, what it is upon any other breadth. Rule .— State the hundreds of the reed known, on the right hand, as the right hand term, and consider from the nature of the question whether the answer ought to be. greater or less, than the hundreds of the reed already known, if the an- ASSISTANT. 245 swer ought to be greater, divide by the lesser breadth, but if lesser, divide by the greater breadth ; reduce, if necessary, to porters and splits, multiply by 5, to bring hundreds to porters, and by 20, to bring porters to splits. EXAMPLE. If a reed is a 1200 on 37 inches, what is it upon 34 inches? In. . In® EL 37 2 34 2 : 12 12 37)408(11 hundreds, 37 38 37 1 5 37)5 (o porters, 20 37)100(2 splits. 74 26 Remainder, 246 If a reed is 34 inches ? LINEN WEAVER^ a 1600 on 37 inches, what is it upon In. In. H. 37 : 34 : : 16 16 204 34 37)544(14 hundreds. 37 174 148 26 5 37)130(3 porters. ill 19 20 37)380(10 splits. 37 10 Remainder, ASSISTANT. 247 If a reed is a ISOO on 34 inches* what is it upon 37 inches? In. In. H« S4 : 87 :: 15 111 ' 37 34 ) 48 1( 1 4 hundreds, 84 141 186 5 3 54)25(0 porters. 20 54)500(1 4 splits. 54 160 136 24 Remainder, I 248 LINEN WEAVER'S If a reed is a 900 on 34 inches, what is it upon 31 inches ? In* In. H. 34 : 37 : : 9 9 34)333(9 hundreds. 306 27 5 34)135(3 porters. 102 23 20 34)460(13 splits. 34 120 102 18 Remainder, ASSISTANT. 249 |f d reed is a 1500 on 34 inches^ what is it upon 40 inches? In. 34- In. 40 15 H. 15 -i . 200 40 34)ooo(J7 hundreds 34 260 238 22 5 34)11 0(3 porters. 102 20 34)160(4 spilth 136 24 Remainder 1 250 LINEN WEAVER’S If a reed is a 1 600 on 50 inches, what is it upon 57 inches? In. In. H. 50 : 57 : : 16 16 222 57 50)592(11 hundreds. 50 92 50 42 ~ JL 50)210(4 porters* 200 ~ 7 cT 20 50)200(4 splits* 200 If a reed is 1800 on 60 inches, what is it upon 40 inches ? In. In. H. 60 : 40 22 18 18 520 40 60 ) 720(12 hundreds. 60 ASSISTANT# 231 If a reed is a 1 700 on 50 inches, what is it upon 54 inches? In, In, EL 50 : 54 : % 17 17 - 258 54 50)578(11 hundreds. 50 78 50 28 5 5o)i4o(2 porters. 100 40 20 50)800(16 splits, 50 ^ ' L* 500 500 252 LINEN WEAVER’S %% Questions for Practice . If a reed is a 1400 on 37 indies, what set is it upon 34 indies? Ans. 12 hundreds, 4 porters, 6y]j splits. If a reed is a 1000 on 37 inches, what set is it upon 40 inches ? Ans. 10 hundreds, 4 porters, splits. If a reed is a 1600 on 40 inches, what set is it upon 30 inches? Ans. 12 hundreds. If a reed is 600 on 37 indies, what set is it upon 60 inches? Ans. 9 hundreds, 3 porters, 12 7T6 splits. If a reed is a J300{ on 42 inches, what set is it upon 29 inches ? Ans. 9 hundreds, 1 porter, 7^ splits. If a reed is 1600-| on 60 inches, what set is it upon 40 inches ? Ans. 1 1 hundreds. If a reed is a 1200^ on 34 inches, what set is it upon 50 inches? Ans. 18 hundreds, 1 porter, 3 8-g splits. If a reed is a *000 on 60 inches, what set is it upon 40 inches? Ans.^6 hundreds, 3 porters, splits. Jf a reed is an 800^ on 34 inches, what set is it- upon 37 inches? Ans. 9 hundreds, 1 porter, 5 splits. If a reed is a 900-J on 34 inches, what set is it •upon 37 inches? Ans. 10 hundreds, 1 porter, S- 2 J splits. If a reed is a 1000 on 37 incites, what set is it upon 54 inches ? Ans. '14 hundreds, 2 porters, 19 T - splits. ASSISTANT. 253 If a reed is a 700£ on 42 inches* what Bet is it upon 51 inches? Ans. hundreds, 9 J2 splits. If a reed is a 2400 on 60 inches, what set is it upon 54 inches ? Ans. 21 hundreds, 5 porters. If a reed is a 2200J on 50 inches, what set is it upon S7 inches? Ans. 16 hundreds, 3 porters, 5 splits, Explanation of the Eleventh Table. The following Tabic shews when a reed is any number of hundreds on one breadth, what number of hundreds, porters, and splits is upon any other breadth contained in the Table, from 5 hundreds to 24 hundreds, the breadths being 54, 57, and 40 inches. Each page is divided into two parts, the rig] it hand part into three columns, and the left hand part into four ; the column on the left hand con- tains the hundreds upon the breadths marked on the head of the column ; the other three columns of each part contain the hundreds, porters, and splits upon the breadths marked on the head of the columns: upon the head of the columns H. stands for hundreds, P. for porters, S. for splits, EXAMPLES. 1st. Suppose the set of a reed to be a 15 hun- dred on 57 inches, what set is it upon 54 and 40 inches. Look In the left hand column under 57- inches, and you will find 15 hundreds, and in the 4 he same line of the other columns under 34 254 ? LINEN WEAVER’S inches, you will find the set of the reed to be 11 hundreds, 4 porters, 14 splits, and the set of the reed under 40 inches to be 14 hundreds, 5 splits. 2d. Suppose the set of the reed to be 17 hun- dreds on 34 inches, what set is it upon 37 and 40 inches. Look in the left hand column under 34 inches, and you will find 17 hundreds, and in the same line of the other columns under 37 inches, you will find the set of the reed to be 18 hundreds, 2 porters, 10 splits ; and the set of the reed under 40 inches to be 20 hundreds. 3d. Suppose the set of the reed to be 20 hun- dreds on 40 inches, what is it upon 34 and 37 inches. Look in the left hand column under 40 inches, and you will find 20 hundreds, and in the same line of the other columns under 34 inches, you will find the set of the reed to be 17 hundreds, and the set of the reed under 37 inches to be 18 hundreds, 2 porters, 10 splits, &c. Siq, ASSISTANT* 25S 0 ►s 01 9-J* S3 o py* A> CO $a O «> c- o ES H* Reed on 34 In. H, P. S. Reed on 40 In, 5 4 6 5 7 6 8 7 9 8 10 9 11 10 12 11 18 11 14 12 15 13 16 14 17 15 18 16 19 17 20 18 21 19 22 20 £3 21 2 2 2 1 1 0 0 0 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 1 19 11 3 15 7 IS 10 2 14 6 18 10 2 3 5 17 9 1 13 24 22 5 5 2 0 6 2 9 7 2 16 8 ***► 4 D 3 13 10 4 1 11 4 9 12 4 17 14 0 5 15 0 13 16 I 1 17 i 9 18 1 17 19 2 5 20 2 14 21 3 2 go 3 10 23 3 18 24 4 6 25 4 14 0 256 LINEN WEAVER S CjI _ ^ a w - o £ 3 « Reed on 37 In. Reed on 40 In, EL H. P. S. H. P. s. 5 5 9 +* 4 5 4 8 6 6 2 13 7 0 5 7, 7 3 1 8 1 3 8 8 o 10 9 2 1 9 9 ~9 a 13 10 2 13 10 10 4 8 11 3 16 11 11 4 17 12 4 11 12 13 0 6 14 0 n 13 14 0 14 15 1 9 14 13 1 3 1 16 2 7 15 16 1 12 17 3 4 16 17 2 l 18 4 1 17 18 2 10 20 0 0 18 19 2 18 / i 21 0 17 19 20 3 7 22 1 15 20 21 3 16 23 2 12 21 22 4 5 24 10 22 24 0 5 25 4 8 23 25 0 o 27 0 5 0 2.8 £4 26 II ASSISTANT 257 O rO a t ffs H. Reed on 54 In, H. P. S. Reed on 37 In, Ho P. S. 5 4 1 5 4 3 2 6 5 0 10 5 2 15 7 5 4 15 6 2 7 8 6 4 0 7 2 0 9 7 3 5 8 1 12 10 8 2 10 9 1 5 11 9 1 15 10 0 17 12 10 1 0 11 0 10 13 11 0 5 12 0 2 14 11 4 ia 12 4 15 15 12 3 15 13 4 7 16 13 3 0 14 4 0 17 14 2 5 15 3 12 18 15 1 10 16 3 5 19 16 0 15 17 2 17 20 17 0 0 18 2 10 21 17 4 5 19 2 2 22 18 3 10 20 1 15 23 19 2 15 21 1 7 24 20 2 0 22 1 0 K k s 258 LINEN WEAVER-S Explanation of the Twelfth Table . The following Table shews the Stockport, Pres- ton, Blackburn, Manchester, and Bolton muslin count of reeds upon 24f and 56 inches, compared with the Scotch count of reeds upon 57 inches. The page is divided into two parts, and each part into three columns; the first column contains the number by which the English reed is known; the second, the Dents (or splits) in an inch ; the third, the Dents (or splits) in a yard ; the 4th, 5th, and 6th, the Hundreds, Porters, and Splits of the Scotch reed, which corresponds with the English reed expressed in the first columns. On the head of the columns, No. stands for numbers. In. for inch, Yd. for yards, H* for hundreds, P. for porters. S. for splits. EXAMPLES. 1st. Suppose a 60 reed of Stockport, Preston and Blackburn, what set is a Scotch reed of an equal fineness ? Look in the first column of the page marked on the head, Stockport, Preston, anc Blackburn, and you will find 60 the number of the reed; in the second, you will find 30 the Dents ir one inch; in the third, you will find 1080 the Dents in a yard, and in the 4th, 5th, and 6th col- umns, you will find 1 1 Hundreds, and 1 0 Splits which is the set of a Scotch reed equal in finenes; to a 60 reed of Stockport, Preston, or Blackburn 2d. Suppose a 60 reed of Manchester and Bol- ton, what set is a Scotch* reed of an equal fineness: Look in the first column of the page marked or the head Manchester and Bolton, and you will fine ASSISTANT. 259 60 the number of the reed ; in the second, you will find 49, 48, which is 49 Dents, -ii* parts of a Dent upon the inch; in the third, you will find 1781 the Dents in a yard; and in the 4th, 5th, and 6th columns, you will find 18 Hundreds, 1 Porter, 11 Splits, which is the set of the Scotch reed equal in fineness to a 60 reed of Manchester and Bolton. Note . At Manchester and Bolton, the reeds are counted by the number of Beers or Porters, in 24j inches, and at Stockport, Preston, and Blackburn, the number of the web is expressed by the number of ends in two inches. See page 178, where a full explanation is given. 260 LINEN WEAVER’S STOCKPORT, PRESTON, and BLACKBURN O m 2$ d a d o • D r~f- S3 o in r+ (/i »-*> rt i— * • *-< H • *3 K S3 - o 63 s 63 c S3 *“d A 32 *-s o »~i • S3 P Cu ►-t (1> o ft- ro os • o CW « O sr * • ►-S a- • a- w • t— * • r^ a% • No. In* Yd. H. p. S. 34 17 612 6 1 9 36 18 648 6 3 6 38 19 684 7 ~Q 3 40 20 *^20 7 2 0 42 21 756' 7 3 17 44 22 792 8 0 14 46 23 828 8 2 17 48 24 864 8 4 8 50 25 900 9 1 5 52 26 936 9 2 12 54 27 972 9 4 19 56 28 1008 30 1 16 58 29 1044 10 3 13 60 30 1080 11 0 10 62 SI 1116 11 2 7 64 32 1152 11 4 4 66 S3 1188 12 1 1 68 34 1224 12 2 18 70 35 1260 12 4 15 72 36 1296 13 1 12 74 37 1332 13 3 9 76 38 1368 14 0 6 78 39 1404" 14 2 3 80 40 1440 14 4 0 82 41 1476 15 0 17 ASSISTANT. 261 STOCKPORT, PRESTON, and BLACKBURN. 3 u n> G © S3 n> *•< N* o m ct- Cfi *T iw-i ® CS S3 a sr (0 CD S3 5* sa 50 S3 E3 CL »-* »T3 o •“S ir^ * © I-S Gfi ro CL 9 o ET 9 • CL cn • o ri* P No. In. Yd. H. P. s. 84 42 1512 15 2 14 86 43 1548 35 4 11 88 44 1584 16 1 8 90 45 1620 16 3 ■ 5 92 46 1650 17 0 2 94 47 1692 / 1 7 1 19 96 48 1728 17 3 16 98 49 1764 18 0 13 100 50 1800 18 2 10 102 51 1836 18 4 7 304 52 1872 19 1 4 106 53 1908 19 3 1 108 54 1944 19 4 18 110 55 1980 20 1 15 112 56 2016 20 S 1 114 57 2052 21 0 9 116 58 2088 21 2 6 118 59 2124 21 4 S 120 60 2160 22 1 0 122 61 2196 22 2 17 124 62 2232 22 4 14 126 63 2268 28 1 11 128 64 2304 23 3 $ 130 65 2340 24 0 5 LINEN WEAVER’S 262 MANCHESTER and BOLTON. O M X d CD d o • 3 CD o ft* c/j ft* l—l • C/i ft- 3 © D X Er 1 CD P 3 * 3 3 *-S • P- o >— j on CD 3 so *“j CD Cu Wi • rt* CD CL« o 3“ • a- • CD *■< cn »— * ft* 71 Noo In. Yd. H. P. S. 20 16.49 593 6 0 9 22 18.14 653 6 3 11 24 19.79 712 7 1 12 26 21.44 771 7 4 12 28 23.09 831 8 2 14 30 24.74 890 9 • 0 15 32 26.39 950 9 3 16 34 28.04 1009 10 1 , 17 36 29.69 1068 10 4 18 38 31.34 1128 11 2 19 40 32.98 1187 12 1 0 42 34.63 1247 12 4 2 44 36.28 1306 13 2 2 46 37.96 1366 14 0 4 48 39.58 1425 \ 14 3 5 50 41.23 1484 15 1 5 52 42.88 154S 15 4 6 54 44.53 1603 16 2 S ASSISTANT* 20 S MANCHESTER and BOLTON. O fD o o • •-> fD o r ^ w m *■+} r+ cr re *-s ro »— » 3 3 3 8— J e 3 3 3 ' 3 E 3 3 »-s fD o r-* ft- 3 -i CO 01. "O' ►— » O Cu o • •-S Cu * C- O • —« * ^3 CD Weaving • * '■Q O TS Weaving H. s . d. /• H. s. d. /• 800 0 6 0 1000 0 10 0 900 0 7 0 1100 0 11 0 iooo 0 8 0 1200 0 11 2 1100 0 9 0 1300 1 0 2 1200 0 10 0 1400 1 2 0 1300 0 1 I 0 1500 1 3 2 1400 l 1 0 1600 1 5 0 . 1500 i' 2 2 1700 1 6 2 1600 l 4 0 1800 1 7 2 1700 l 5 2 1900 1 9 0 1800 i 7 0 2000 2 0 0 1900 l 9 0 2100 2 3 0 2000 2 0 0 2200 2 6 0 2100 2 3 0 2300 2 9 0 2200 2 6 0 2 400 0 0 0 2300 2 9 0 0000 0 0 0 2400 3 0 0 0000 0 0 0 Note , Checks under a 1000 reed, three half pence, and above a 1000 reed on 57 inches, two- pence additional per ell to the above prices. Plain Wincies, twopence per beer of Weft, and if striped, one penny each shuttle above one per ell. Wind- ing, warping, and dressing Linen Yarn, sixpence per spyndle ; dyed or bleached,, one penny addi- tional. ASSISTANT. 287 Customary Winding . d. Brown Cotton, per spyndle, ..... ..... 4i Dyed or Bleached, do. ........ .... Si Greasy Woollen, do. 5i Scoured do. do. ........ 7* Dyed do. do 10£ Prices of Woollen Cloth Ell Broad . d. Five beers, per lb. Scots put on the ell, 6 Seven do. do. do Nine do. do. do 10 If more than ell broad, charged in proportion to the breadth— Bordered Blankets charged twopence above. Tramped Dornick twopence halfpenny above the plain. If yarn is inferior, a demand ought to be made accordingly, and if the employer and employ- ed cannot agree, the same should be settled by re- ference, as directed by the Act passed for the pur- pose of settling disputes betwixt weavers and their employers. Note. „ In customary weaving, all measured ells are paid for after taken out of the loom. Of the Making and Dressing of Heddles . The choosing of yarn proper for making hed- dles to the different sets, must be of the greatest advantage to the weaver. In the operation of weaving, if the yarn of which the Heddles is made be uneven spun, or too heavy for the set to which they are made, the constant friction up and down 268 LINEN WEAVER’S will of course chaffer the yarn, raise the fibres, make it more liable to break, and the consequence will be the making of bad work. When Meddles are made too fine for the set, the consequence is also bad, as the wool that flies from the yarn by the friction of the Meddles, in process of weaving, rests about the clasp of the Heddles, and is termed a- mong weavers, locking the Heddles. In loosing this clasp, the weaver is liable to break the Heddles on account of their weakness, and also if the yarn is unevenly, the clasp will not slide over the thread, and of course it will break. The dressing of Heddles in a proper manner, is particularly requisite for facilitating the operation of weaving; making good work, and saving the Heddles : to effect this properly, when the leaves of the Heddles are hung singly, and the metland cords fixed on a proper place of each shaft, give the Heddles a brush, with a dry brush up and down, which will raise all the knots and long fibres, which if the weaver thinks will not lie down when the dressing is laid on, he should cut away ; then take dressing newly made, and lay a little of it on evenly on both sides of the leaves, and brush it well up and down ; then take a little more and lay it on, brush them down for a consid- erable time, until you think the Heddle is properly wet into the heart,, then dry them (observing to brush them at intervals during this operation) and, when dry, turn the metland cord round to another place, so that the clasp may be shifted out of the stead ; after this is done, take a little dressing on the brushes, put it all over the centre of each leaf regularly, brush it well in, in order that it may go ASSISTANT. 269 to the heart of the undressed part of the Heddles then dry, and brush them till very dry, and give them a little tallow : the Heddles will be the better to be rolled up and laid upon a floor a little damp, for a night, which will make them more pliable. Or as much dressing may be taken up as will serve j for dressing the Heddles, and when well beaten, the white of two eggs put in and well beaten over again, then laid on the Heddles as before directed ; I or take one pennyworth of isinglass dissolved a- mong boiling water, for 4-4th Heddles, and so in proportion above 4-4ths ; after being dissolved, beat it among the dressing and lay it on as before di» rected, Heddles are made in various ways, such as eyed Heddles, clasped Heddles, and spaced Heddles. Clasped Heddles are the most common, and the principal thing to be observed in the making of them, is to proportion the yarn properly, and at the same time it is to be observed that each Heddle be alike tight. Eyed Heddles must also be alike tight, but they are built in a different way, and the eye is made according to the work, from 2 inches to 3 inches in depth for drawn work; but from ^ inch to an inch if tramped. Spaced Heddles are either made eyed or clasped, but only this differ- ence, when there is not equal Heddles required on each leaf, there are Heddles built on each leaf, and made fast uoon the met land cord to suit the reed , - JL for whatever pattern is to be made ; and if not made fast upon the metland cord they are made with small eyes to run upon the metland cord, and if necessary, may be shifted from one leaf to a- notner. 270 LINEN WEAVER’S To weave plain cloth only two leaves of Heddles are actually necessary, but when the set of the web is fine and many threads contained in the warp, the Heddles would be so crowded together that the warp would be strained, and break by the unne- cessary friction ; for which reason four leaves are universally used, except in the weaving of very coarse work. The mode of drawing through the Heddles, and the various ways in the different kinds of work, with the difference betwixt the Scotch and English way of drawing, and the way that is most approven, shall be treated of fully in another place of the work .— See Fancy Weaving . Explanation of the Thirteenth Table, The following table shews what weight of linen yarn made threefold, is the most fit for the making of Cambs or Heddles, for the weaving of linen, and how much yarn it will take to the building of any Camb 4-4ths, 5-4ths, 6-4ths, 7-4 ths, 8-4ths, and 10-4 ths, in breadth, allowing one porter over and above the breadth in table eighth, the depth being 10, 11, 12, and 13 inches. Each page is divided into 7 columns. The first column contains the hundreds of the reed, to which the Camb is to be built, the 2d and 3d columns, the weight of the hank single yarn, required for the hundreds in the first column. The other four columns contain the quantity of yarn required for the sets in the first column, at the breadths and depths marked on the head of the columns. H- Camb, stands for the hundreds upon ell of the Camb, Oz. and Dr. the ounces and drams in the hank, Sp. for spyndles, Hr. for heers, C. for cuts, Th. for threads. ASSISTANT. 271 EXAMPLE. Suppose a Camb to be built 12 hundreds, 4~4ths in breadth and 10 inches in depth : Look in the first column and you will find 1 2 hundreds, and in the same line of the 2d and 3d columns you will find the weight of the hank to be 34 cz. 6 drams, also in the same line under depth, 10 inches, you will find the quantity of yarn required to be 7 heers, l cut, 61 threads. Note. Adding the ounces and drams of any two sets together, and then halving them, gives you the weight of the hank, single yarn, for the half set betwixt them, also adding the quantity of yarn for any two sets and then halving it, gives the quantity of yarn required for the half set between the same. If a heddlc is wanted a little heavy, take the weight for a set coarser, and if for light work, take the weight for a set or two finer than the table directs. 272 LINEN weaver's' Breadths Depths. • |ths. 10 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 3 0 72 6 8 12 0 3 l 105 7 8 0 0 4 i 18 8 6 14 0 5 ’ 0 50 9 6 0 0 5 1 83 10 5 5 0 6 0 1 16 1 l 4 13 0 7 0 2 9 3 2 4 6 0 7- 1 61 13 3 0 0 8 0 94 14 3 1 1 0 9 0 7 1 5 3 7 0 9 1 40 16 3 3 0 10 0 72 17 3 0 0 10 1 105 18 2 14 0 1 1 1 18 19 2 1 1 0 12 0 50 20 2 8 0 12 1 83 21 2 6 0 13 0 116 22 2 4 0 14 0 - 29 23 2 3 0 14 1 61 24 2 3 0 15 0 94 ASSISTANT. 273 Breadths, Depths. i |ths. 11 Inches e H. Camb Per Hank. . Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 3 1 32 6 8 12 0 4 0 80 7 8 0 0 5 0 8 8 6 14 0 5 1 56 9 6 0 0 6 0 104 10 5 5 0 7 0 32 11 4 13 0 7 1 80 12 4 6 0 8 1 8 13 4 0 0 9 0 56 14 3 ] 1 0 9 1 104 15 3 7 0 10 1 32 16 3 3 0 li 0 80 17 3 0 0 12 0 8 18 2 14 0 12 1 56 19 2 1 1 0 13 0 104 / to o 2 8 0 14 0 32 21 2 6 0 14 1 80 22 2 4 0 IS 1 8 23 2 3 0 16 0 56 24 2 1 0 16 1 1C4 m m s 274 < LINEN WEAVER’S Breadths. Depths. | ths. 12 Inches. H. Camb. Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 IS 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 o 10 12 0 14 0 5 13 6 0 11 / 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 4 3 1 Sp. o o o o o 0 o 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 o o o o o o Hr. 4 4 5 6 7 7 8 9 10 10 11 12 13 14 14 15 16 17 17 18 c. 0 1 l 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 Th. 5 54 O 61 7 73 19 84 30 95 41 106 52 17 83 28 94 39 105 50 / ASSISTANT. 27 5 ' ^ . / Breadths Depths. • jfths. 13 Inches • H. Per Hank. imb . Oz. Dr. So. A. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 4 1 78 6 8 12 0 5 0 29 7 8 0 0 5 i 1 10 8 6', 14 0 6 i 71 9 6 0 0 7 i 32 10 5 5 0 8 0 113 1 1 4 13 0 9 0 74 12 4 6 0 10 0 35 18 4 0 0 10 1 116 14 3 11 0 1 1 1 77 15 3 7 0 12 1 38 16 3 3 0 13 1 0 17 3 0 0 14 1 80 18 2 14 0 15 1 41 19 2 11 0 16 1 2 20 2 8 0 17 0 83 21 2 6 0 IS 0 44 22 2 4 0 19 0 5 2S 2 3 0 20 0 86 24 2 1 0 21 0 47 ^76 LINEN WEAVER'S Breadths. Depths. |ths. 10 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. 5 10 10 Sp. Hr. C. Th. 0 4 0 18 6 8 12 0 4 1 88 7 8 0 0 5 1 - 37 8 6 14 0 6 0 107 9 6 0 0 7 0 56 10 5 5 0 8 0 7 11 4 IS 0 8 1 76 12 4 6 0 9 1 26 13 4 0 0 10 0 96 14 3 11 15 3 7 16 S 3 0 11 0 46 0 11 1 105 0 12 1 66 17 3 0 18 2 14 0 .13 1 15 0 14 0 85 19 2 11 20 2 8 212 6 0 15 0 34 0 15 1 105 0 16 1 54 22 2 4 23 2 3 24 2 1 0 17 12 0 18 0 72 , 0 19 0 ' 21 2 ASSISTANT, \ 277 Breadths, Depths. H. Oamb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 I 12 13 14 15 16 37 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 0 14 0 5 13 6 0 11 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 4 3 1 | tbs. 11 Inches. Sp. Hr. C. Th 0 O 5 * O 116 0 5 0 84 0 6 0 52 0 7 0 22 071 110 0 8 1 80 O 9 1 48 O 10 1 47 0 11 O 105 0 12 0 75 O 13 0 43 0 14 O 12 0 14 1 100 0 15 1 70 0 16 l 38 0 17 1 8 O 18 0 76 O 19 0 62 O 20 0 82 0 21 0 O 278 LINEN weaver’s Breadths, Depths. t fths. 12 Inches. • H. Per Hank. Camb >. Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 4 1 113 6 8 12 0 5 1 80 7 8 0 0 6 1 67 8 6 14 0 7 1 54 9 6 0 0 8 1 41 10 5 5 0 9 1 28 1 1 4 IS 0 10 1 15 12 A 4 \ 6 0 11 1 2 13 4 ) 0 0 12 0 109 14 3 11 ^ 0 13 0 96 15 3 7 0 14 0 83 16 3 3 0 15 0 70 17 3 0 0 16 0 57 18 2 14 0 17 0 44 19 2 11 0 18 0 y 31 20 2 8 0 19 0 18 2 1 2 6 0 20 0 5 22 2 4 0 20 0 112 23 2 o ' 0 21 1 99 24 2 1 0 22 1 86 ASSISTANT. 279 Breadths. Depths* |ths. 13 Inches. H. amb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 O 14 O 5 13 6 0 li 7 3 O 14 11 8 6 4 3 Sp. O 0 o o o o 0 o 0 o 0 o 0 0 o o o o o Hr. 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 i 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 0 C. o 0 o 0 0 0 o 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Th. 70 76 82 88 94 100 106 112 118 4 10 16 22 28 34 40 46 52 58 64 2 280 LINEN WEAVER'S Breadths. Depths. fths. 10 Inches. H. Camb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 33 14 3 5 3 6 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 ' € 2 4 a# -a Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 0 14 0 5 13 6 0 11 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 _ 4 3 1 Sp. O 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 Hr. 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 36 17 18 19 19 20 21 22 c. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 o o 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 Th. 83 70 57 44 31 38 5 112 98 85 72 59 46 33 20 7 1 14 101 88 74 ASSISTANT. 281 Breadths. fths. Depths. 11 Inches • / H. amb Per Hank. . Qz. Dr. Sp. Hr. C. Th. 5 10 10 0 5 0 83 6 8 12 0 6 \ 0 89 7 00 . 4 0 0 7 0 99 8 6 14 0 8 0 103 9 6 0 0 9 0 118 10 5 5 0 10 1 8' 11 4 13 0 11 1 17 12 4 6 i ( ° 12 1 27 13 4 0 0 13 1 36 14 3 1 1 0 14 1 46 15 3 7 0 15 1 56 16 3 3 0 16 1 65 17 3 0 0 17 1 75 18 2 14 0 18 1 84 19 2 11 0 39 1 94 20 2 8 0 20 1 104 21 2 6 0 21 1 113 22 2 4 0 23 0 3 25 2 3 1 0 0 12 24 2 1 1 1 0 22 n n 282 LINEN WEAVER S Breadths. Depths. |ths. 12 Inches. H. Camb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 14 15 16 17 18 39 20 21 22 23 24 Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 0 14 O 5 13 6 0 11 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 4 3 Sp. o o 0 o o 0 0 o o 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 1 l 1 Hr. 5 6 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 1 6 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 1 2 3 c. 1 1 o o 0 0 1 1 1 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 0 o 0 Th. 76 108 20 52 84 106 28 60 92 4 36 68 100 12 44 76 108 20 52 84 ASSISTANT. 283 H. Camb 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 18 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 28 24 Breadths. Depths. Per Hank* Oz, Dr. 30 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 5 3 3 3 2 \ 2 2 2 2 10 12 O 14 0 5 13 6 0 11 7 3 O 14 11 8 6 4 8 ! fths. 13 Inches. Sp. Hr. C. Th. O 6 0 73 0 7 17 O 8 1 61 0 9 1 115 O 11 O 49 0 -12 O 103 0 13 1 37 0 14 1 91 0 16 O 25 0 17 O 79 0 18 1 18 0 19 1 67 O 21 O 1 0 22 0 55 0 23 0 109 1 O 1 4 3 1 1 1 97 1 3 0 3 1 1 4 0 85 1 5 11 9 2 284 ? linen weaver’s Breadths. |ths. Depths. 10 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 5 1 43 6 8 12 0 6 1 70 7 8 0 0 7 1 97 8 6 14 0 9 0 4 9 6 0 0 10 0 31 10 5 5 0 11 0 58 11 4 13 0 12 0 85 12 4 6 0 13 0 112 13 4 0 0 14 1 19 14 3 11 0 15 1 56 15 3 7 0 16 1 83 16 3 3 0 17 1 110 17 3 0 0 19 0 17 18 2 14 0 20 0 44 19 2 11 0 21 0 61 20 2 8 0 22 0 88 21 2 6 0 23 0 115 22 2 4 1 0 1 22 23 2 3 1 1 1 49 ■24 2 % 1 1 o 1 76 t ASSISTANT, 285 Breadths, Depths. ths. 11 Inches. H. Camb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 2 6 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Per Hank. Oz. Dr. 10 8 8 6 6 B 4 4 4 3 3 3 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 0 14 0 B 13 6 0 11 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 4 3 1 Sp. O 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 o 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 Hr. 6 7 8 9 11 12 13 14 16 17 18 39 20 22 23 0 1 3 4 5 c. 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 1 Th, 59 113 47 101 35 89 23 t i n 65 119 53 107 41 95 29 83 17 71 5 286 linen weaver’s Breadths, Depths. 1 f ths. 12 Inches • H. imb Per Hank. . Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 6 1 75 6 8 12 0 8 0 36 7 8 0 0 9 0 117 8 6 14 0 10 1 78 9 6 0 0 12 0 39 10 5 5 0 13 1 0 1 1 4 13 0 14 1 81 12 4 6 0 16 0 42 13 4 0 0 17 1 S 14 3 11 0 18 1 84 15 3 7 0 20 0 45 16 3 3 0 21 1 6 17 3 0 0 22 1 87 18 2 14 1 0 0 48 19 2 11 1 1 1 9 20 2 8 1 2 1 90 21 2 6 1 4 0 51 22 2 4 1 5 1 12 23 2 3 1 6 1 93 24 2 1 1 8 0 54 I ASSISTANT. 287 Breadths. |ths. Depths. 13 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. 5 10 10 6 8 12 7 8 0 8 6 14 9 6 0 10 5 5 11 4 13 12 4 6 13 4 0 14 S 11 15 3 7 16 3 3 17 3^0 18 2 14 / 19 2 11 20 2 8 212 6 22 2 4 23 2 3 24 2 1 Sp. Hr. C. Th. O 7 O 91 0 8 1 79 0 10 ' O 67 0 11 1 55 0 13 0 43 0 14 1 31 0 16 0 19 O 17 1 7 0 18 1 110 0 20 1 86 0 21 1 86 0 23 0 94 1 O 1 62 1 2 O 52 1 3 1 40 1 5 0 28 I 6 1 16 18 0 4 1 90 112 1 10 1 100 i 288 LINEN WEAVER’S Breadths Depths. • f ths. 10 Inches H. Camb Per Hank. . Oz. Dr. Sp . Hr. C. Th. 5 10 10 0 6 0 114 6 8 12 0 7 i 60 7 8 0 0 9 0 6 8 6 14 0 10 0 72 9 6 0 0 11 1 18 10 5 5 0 12 1 84 11 4 13 0 14 0 30 12 4 6 0 15 0 96 18 4 0 0 16 1 42 14 3 11 0 17 1 108 15 3 7 0 19 0 54 16 3 3 0 20 1 0 17 3 0 0 21 1 66 18 2 14 0 23 0 6 19 2 11 1 0 0 72 20 2 8 I 1 1 18 21 O 6 1 2 1 84 22 2 4 1 4 0 SO 28 2 3 1 5 0 96 24 2 1 1 6 1 42 ASSISTANT. 289 Breadths. Depths. fths. 11 Inches. % L - H. Per Hank. C - Camb. Oz. Dr. Sp. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 7 0 29 6 8 12 0 8 l 6 7 8 0 0 9 i 103 8 6 14 0 11 0 80 9 6 0 0 12 1 57 10 5 5 0 14 0 34 11 4 13 0 15 1 11 12 4 6 0 16 1 108 13 4 0 0 18 0 85 14 3 1 1 0 19 1 62 15 3 7 0 21 0 39 16 3 3 0 22 1 16 17 3 0 0 23 1 113 18 2 14 1 1 0 90 19 2 1 3 1 1 2 1 67 20 2 8 1 4 0 44 21 2 6 1 5 1 21 22 2 4 1 6 1 118 23 2 3 1 8 0 95 L 24 2 1 1 9 1 72 0 0 9 II - V / 290 LINEN WEAVER’S Breadths* Depths. fths. 12 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. 5 10 10 Sp. Hr. C. Th. 0 7 1 64 6 8 12 0 9 0 72 7 8 0 0 10 1 80 8 6 14 0 12 0 88 9 6 0 10 5 5 0 13 1 96 0 15 0 104 11 4 13 0 16 1 112 12 4 6 0 18 1 0 13 4 0 0 20 0 8 14 3 11 0 , 21 1 16 15 3 7 0 23 0 24 16 3 * 3 1 0 1 32 17 3 0 1 2 0 40 18 2 14 19 2 11 1 3 1 48 * 1 5 0 56 20 2 8 21 2 6 1 6 1 54 1.8 0 62 22 2 4 23 2 5 24 2 1 1 9 1 70 1 11 0 78 1 12 v 1 86 .. -Jr 0 ASSISTANT* 29 1 Breadths, Depths. fths. 13 Inches. H. Camb. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 Per Hank. Oz. Dr, 10 8 8 6 6 5 4 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 10 12 0 14 0 5 13 6 0 11 7 3 0 14 11 8 6 4 3 1 Sp. o 0 o o 0 o 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Hr. 8 10 11 13 15 16 18 20 21 23 1 3 4 6 8 9 11 13 14 16 c. 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 Th. 99 18 65 112 39 86 13 60 107 34 81 8 55 102 29 76 3 50 97 24 292 LINEN WEAVER’S Breadths. ^°ths. Depths. 10 Inches. H. Per Hank. Camb. Oz. Dr. 5 10 10 6 8 12 7 8 0 8 6 14 9 6 0 10 5 5 11 4 13 12 4 6 IS 4 0 14 3 1 i 15 3 7 16 3 3 37 3 0 18 2 14 19 2 11 20 2 8 21 2 6 22 2 4 23 2 S 24 2 1 Sp. Hr. C. Th. 0 8 0 44 0 9 1 eo O 11 0 74 0 12 1 . 88 0 14 0 102 0 15 1 116 a 17 1 10 0 19 0 24 0 20 1 58 O 22 O 52 0 23 1 66 1 - 1^ 0 80 1 2 1 94 1 4 0 108 16 0 2 1 7 1 16 1 9 0 32 1 10 1 46 1 12 O 60 13 1 74 1 . ASSISTANTS 293 Breadths. Depths. - ^jpths. 1 1 Inches • H. Per Hank. amb . Oz. Dr. Sp Hr. c. Th. 5 10 30 0 9 0 44 6 8 12 0 10 l 54 7 8 0 0 12 0 64 8 6 14 0 13 1 74 9 6 0 0 15 0 84 10 5 5 0 16 1 94 1 1 4 13 0 18 0 104 12 4 6 I 0 39 1 114 13 4 0 0 21 1 4 14 3 11 0 23 0 14 15 3 7 1 0 1 24 16 3 3 1 2 0 34 17 3 0 1 3 1 44 18 2 14 1 5 0 54 19 2 11 1 6 1 64 20 2 8 • S / 1 8 0 74 21 2 6 1 9 1 84 22 2 4 1 11 0 94 23 2 3 1 12 1 104 24 2 1 1 14 0 114 294 linen weaver’s Breadths. ^ths. Depths. 12 Inches H. Per Hank. Camb. 0z. Dr. 5 10 10 6 8 12 7 8 0 8 6 14 9 6 0 10 5 5 11 4 13 12 4 6 13 4 O 14 3 11 15 3 7 16 3 3 17 3 0 18 2 14 19 2 11 20 2 8 212 6 22 2 4 23 2 3 24 2 1 Sp. 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Hr. 10 11 13 15 16 18 20 21 23 1 2 4 6 7 9 11 12 14 16 18 c. 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 1 1 0 0 Th. 4 48 92 16 60 104 28 72 116 40 84 8 52 96 20 64 108 32 76 0 t ASSISTANT Breadths Depths. a. ^ ths. 13 Inches • H. imb. Per Plank* Oz. Dr. 8d. Hr. c. Th. 5 10 10 0 10 i 84 6 8 12 0 12 1 42 7 8 0 0 14 1 2 8 6 14 0 16 0 80 9 6 0 0 18 0 38 10 5 5 0 19 1 116 11 4 13 0 21 1 74 12 4 6 0 23 1 32 13 4 0 1 1 0 110 14 3 11 1 3 0 68 15 3 7 1 5 0 26 16 3 3 1 6 1 104 17 3 0 1 8 1 62 18 2 14 1 10 l 20 19 2 11 T 12 0 98 20 2 8 1 14 0 56 21 2 6 1 16 0 14 22 2 4 1 17 1 92 23 2 3 1 19 l 50 24 2 1 1 21 1 0 r i ' 296 LINEN WEAVER’S Note . — In the course of weaving, the weaver should be particularly careful when, a heddle breaks, to look how the cast of the other heddles runs at the clasp, and put up the heddle with the same cast, else when the thread is put into the heddle, the heddle will twist it about, and break it in the setting back of the camb. Of the making of Dressing. The operation of dressing warps spun from flax,. Sec. is certainly of the greatest importance in the art of weaving, for it is impossible to produce good work, unless particular care be taken in the dres- sing of the warp preparatory to the operation of weaving, I j The use of dressing is to lay smoothly all the ends of the fibres of which the raw material is com- posed, and to give the yarn strength, or tenacity, sufficient to enable it to bear the unavoidable fric- tion which it has to undergo in the operation of weaving it into cloth. Dressing tends both to di- minish the friction during the process, and render the cloth glossy and smooth when finished : the substances commonly employed in this country are flour of wheat, and sometimes potatoes, these answer sufficiently well in smoothing and strength- ening the yarn, but still the great objection is (and although various substances have been tried as a remedy, nothing has proved effectual ;) that they are too easily affected by the drought and damp, particularly flour of wheat : when dressed yarn is allowed to stand exposed to the air for any consid- erable time, it becomes hard, brittle, loses its fiexi- ASSISTANT. 297 bility, the cloth is very rough and uneven, the work is bad, and the yarn tedious and troublesome to weave ; this particularly occurs in dry weather, when the weavers of fine cloth are under the indis- pensable necessity to have their dressed yarn speedi- ly wrought up. To counteract this, different saline substances are used, such as herring or beef brine, palm oil, stale urine, water of boiled fishes, skins, &c. all of which have a tendency to attract mois- ture, and should be mixed up with the dressing in small or great quantities according to the state of the weather. But even these have not proved completely successful, probably from the propor- tion necessary, and the state of the weather not being properly attend to ; as too much moisture and too much drought are equally prejudicial to the j yarn. Indeed the transition from dry to moist is so j great, and occurs so frequently, that it may be mi- ll posssible to. fix upon any universal and exact rule, for the exact quantities to be mixed. It is remarkable from all the accounts given of ! the weavers of India, that the process of weaving the finest muslins is conducted in the open air, ex- I posed to the intense heat of the climate, with no | other covering than the shade of a tree. It is j well known that this would be impracticable in | this country, even in an ordinary summer day. What the substances are that are used, I can re- ceive no correct information, only, that the flour of rice is the principal ingredient. It certainly would prove a great benefit to the trade of the country in general, (as well as lucra- I tive to the person who may succeed in finding out the dressing most fit to be applied;) if men of pp 9 §98 LINEN WEAVER’S science would take it into their consideration, and investigate in a chemical manner, the substances most proper to be employed by weavers in the dressing of warps, and the proportions of the in- gredients to be mixed, according to the dry and moist state of the atmosphere. Although it appears, that this subject which is of much importance, has not attracted the atten- tion of scientific men, neither has it been treated of in a philosophical manner; however, notwith- standing of this, I have laid down in a simple and plain manner, (and annexed a table for the same,) the different ways of making dressing, and a few of the ingredients to be mixed, for the purpose of keeping the yarn soft and pliable. To make dressing from the flour of wheat, put the hour among soft water, stir it well about, and let it soak three days in warm weather, but double that in cold weather, frequently pouring" off the water and putting on fresh water during that time, which will carry off all the refuse of the hour, which generally rises to the top ; and when about to make it, measure it into the pot, putting in the quantity of alum that the table directs, (the alum must be put in when cold,) and when on the fire keep the fire slow, stirring it gently all the time of making, until it falls sufficiently tough from the stirring stick; or put the water on the fire with the quantity of alum among the water, and have the hour to be pat in, mixed with cold water, and well stirred about, until it become of a consistency something like cream; and when the pot is at,the boil pour it gently into the pot, stirring it all the time, until the whole quantity is put in ; (but be- ASSISTANT. fore pouring it into the pot, take out some of the warm water, to prevent it being too thin, and if it requires it, it can be easily put in again ;) or if it requires more water, it may be added, pouring it gently, observing the foregoing directions. Dressing from potatoes may be boiled down among the water, and when something cold, put through a searce and barrelled for fermentation, by adding a little barm (or yest,) the older the better for use : the best way of using dressing of potatoes, is to mix it with flour dressing on the dressing board, one-half of each, or one-third potatoes and two-thirds flour, according as the nature of the yarn requires; adding a little salt and palm oil, to prevent the drought from taking upon the yarn, or a little beef or herring brine may be added, but in damp wea- ther it will require neither of these. There is a way that is very good in the making of flour dressing: take the skins off whatever quantity of potatoes you intend to mix with your hour, and when boil- ed beat them well, add water, and stir them till they become thin, pour them among the made up flour you intend to make, and go on with the pro« cess as before directed; or when the hour dressing is near boiling, pour in the potatoe mixture which answers equally well. The following will be advantageous for the weav- ing linen, lawns, and fine cambrics, as it will keep the yam smooth and soft : take a jar as large as may be necessary, fill it with urine, cork it up, and put it under ground six weeks, then take it up, taking care not to shake it to raise the sedi- ment which is fallen to the bottom, pour it offi 300 LINEN WEAVER’S when it will be perfectly clear, and use it as water in the making of dressing, adding for each pound of flour a halfpenny worth of palm oil, and for each two pounds flour, one halfpenny worth of alum, to prevent it from running in the making : the foregoing remarks, are from experience, and if properly attended to, will be found to be of the greatest advantage to the operative, in enabling him to make good work both in wet and dry wea- ther. Explanation of the Fourteenth Table . The following Table shews the quantity of flour, water, and alum, required for any quantity of dressing, from one pound to 112 pounds, or one hundred weight ; the page is divided into 8 col- umns : in the first column is the quantity of water and alum required to mix up the quantity of the flour in the first column; on the head of the col- umns, Lbs. stands for pounds, Oz. for ounces. Dr. for drams, Pts. for pints, Ch. for chopins, M. for mutchkins, Gl. for Gill. Suppose you are to make any quantity of dres- sing, look in the first column for the quantity of flour you intend to make, and in the same line of the other columns, you will find the quantity of water and alum, required for the mixing up of the flour. EXAMPLE. Suppose you are to make 8 pounds of flour, look in the first column and you will find eight pounds, and in the same line of the other columns, you ASSISTANT. 301 will find the quantity of water to be 9 pts. and the quantity of alum to be 4 ounces, which is the quantity of water and alum required for the mix- ing up the quantity of flour in the first column. Note . — -Some flour will require more water and some less, owing to the strength or weakness of the fiour, but if the flour is of a good quality it will stand full, and if water be needed, it may be added.— Boiling water is preferable, and the mea- sure used is the English wine measure, a pint is half a gallon, a ehopin Jth, a mutchkin l-8th, a gill l-52d part of a gallon, as denominated in Scot- land ; measure into the pot the flour and water when mixed up. 302 LINEN WEAVER’S Flour. Water. - Alum. Lbs. Pts. Ch. M. GL Lbs. Oz. Dr. 1 100 2 0 08 2 2 0 1 0 0 1 0 3 5 0 12 0 18 4 4 1 0 0 0 2 0 5 5 *10 2 0 28 6 p 6 1 1 0 0 3 0 7 7 1 1 2 0 3 8 8 9000 0 40 9 10 002 0 48 10 11 0 1 0 0 5 0 11 12 0 1 2 0 5 8 12 13 1 0 0 0 6 0 13 14 1 0 2 0 6 8 14 15 1 1 0 0 7 0 15 16 1 1 2 0 7 8 16 " 18 0 0 0 0 8 0 17 19 0 0 2 0 8 8 18 20 0 1 0 0 9 0 19 21 0 1 2 0 9 8 20 22 1 0 0 0 10 0 21 23 1 0 2 0 10 8 22 24 1 1 0 0 ll 0 23 25 1 1 2 0 11 8 24 27 0 0 0 0 12 0 25 28 0 0 2 0 12 8 26 29 .0 1 0 0 13 0 27 ' 30 0 1 2 0 13 8 28 31 1 0 0 0 14 0 ASSISTANT 303 "lour. ^bs. Pts. Water. Ch. M. Gl. ? . Lbs Alum. . Oz. Dr. 29 32 l 0 2 0 14 8 30 33 1 1 0 0 15 0 31 34 1 1 2 0 15 8 32 36 0 0 0 1 0 0 33 37 0 0 2 1 0 8 34 38 0 1 0 1 I 0 35 39 0 1 2 1 1 8 36 40 1 0 0 I 2 0 37 41 1 0 2 1 2 8 38 42 1 , 1 0 1 3 0 39 43 1 1 2 1 3 8 40 45 0 0 0 1 4 ' 0 41 46 0 0 2 1 4 8 42 47 0 1 0 1 5 0 43 48 0 1 2 1 5 8 44 49 I 0 0 1 6 0 45 50 1 0 2 1 6 8 46 51 I 1 0 1 7 0 47 52 1 1 2 1 7 8 48 54 0 0 0 1 8 0 49 55 0 0 2 1 8 8 50 56 0 1 2 1 9 0 51 57 1 0 0 1 9 8 52 58 1 0 2 1 10 0 53 - 59 1 1 0 1 10 8 54 60 1 1 2 1 1 1 0 55 62 0 0 0 1 1 1 8 56 63 0 0 2 1 12 0 I I 304- - LINEN WEAVER’S Flour. Water. Alum. Lbs. Pts. Ch. M. Gl. Lbs. Oz. Dr. 57 64 0 0 2 1 12 8 58 65 0 1 0 1 13 0 59 66 0 1 2 1 13 8 60 67 1 0 0 1 14 0 61 68 1 0 2 1 14 8 62 69 1 1 0 1 15 0 63 70 1 1 2 1 15 8 64 72 0 0 0 2 0 0 65 73 0 0 2 2 0 8 66 74 0 1 0 2 1 0 67 75 0 1 2 2 1 8 68 76 1 0 0 2 2 0 69 77 1 0 2 . 2 2 8 70 78 1 1 0 2 3 0 71 79 1 1 2 2 3 8 72 81 0 0 0 2 4 0 73 82 0 0 2 2 4 8 74 83 0 1 0 2 5 0 75 84 0 1 2 2 5 8 76 85 1 0 0 2 6 0 77 86 . 1 0 2 2 6 8 78 87 1 1 0 2 7 0 79 88 . 1 1 2 2 7 8 80 90 0 0 0 2 8 0 81 91 0 0 2 2 8 8 82 92 0 1 0 2 9 0 83 93 0 1 2 2 9 8 84 94 1 0 0 2 10 0 ASSISTANT 305 Flour. Lbs. Pts. Water Ch. • M. 01 ® Lbs Alum. . Oz. Dr. 85 95 1 0 2 2 10 8 86 96 1 l 0 2 u 0 87 97 1 1 2 2 u 8 88 99 0 0 0 2 12 0 89 100 0 0 2 2 12 8 90 101 0 1 0 2 13 0 91 102 0 1 2 2 13 8 92 103 1 0 0 2 14 0 93 104 1 0 . 2 2 14 8 94 105 1 1 0 2 15 0 95 106 1 1 2 2 15 8 96 108 0 0 0 3 0 0 97 109 0 0 2 3 0 8 98 110 0 1 0 3 - 1 0 99 111 0 1 2 3 1 8 100 112 1 0 0 3 2 0 101 113 1 0 2 3 2 8 102 114 1- 1 0 3 3 0 103 115 1 1 2 3 3 8 104 117 0 0 0 3 4 O 10S 118 0 0 2 3 4 8 106 119 0 1 0 3 5 0 | 107 120 0 1 2 3 5 8 108 121 1 0 0 3 6 0 109 122 1 0 2 3 6 8 HO 123 1 1 0 3 7 0 111 124 1 1 2 3 7 8 1 112 126 0 0 0 3 8 0 Q q 9 S06 LINEN WEAVER’S -w Of the Boiling and Cleansing of Linen Yarn . Linen yarn before being put into the loom, re- quires to be boiled, for the purpose of softening and emptying the yam of all the impure substances which adhere to the fibres of which the threads are composed, and also to increase its firmness and tenacity; by which operation, the weaver is enabled to put his cloth closer together, and it also retains its closeness after it is weaved, throughout the pro- cess of bleaching. A spyndle of yarn, weighing 1 lb. 8 oz. before it is boiled, will only weigh 1 lb. 4 oz. after, which is about the sixth part lighter; and if the stuff from which the yarn is spun be of a bad quality, it will empty still more; very coarse yarn is seldom boiled, as it would be expensive, but is only put into a steep from twenty-four to forty- eight hours, in order to make it soft, and more flexible for the operation of weaving. To boil Linen yarn, first steep it among soft wa- ter for the space of twenty-four hours, then take it out of the steep, and lay it on a rack to drain off the w ? ater from it, and wring it; (and in the interim, have the boiler with a sufficient quantity of Pot ashes brought near the boil,) then make it up soft, and put it into the boiler, press it down with a pole, but not hard, as that would cause the ASSISTANT. ! 307 yarn to be very unequally boiled; or as it is termed among Boilers (spotted:) and when the yarn is new put in, it ought to be particularly attended to, to make the fire burn brisk and strong, which will prevent the spotting in a great measure ; make it to boil three hours, (but previous to putting in the yarn have an iron hoop cross warped with cords laid in the bottom of the boiler, to prevent it sit- ting to the bottom, and burning the yarn ;) then take it out, and let it lie till about lukewarm, put it into the boiler again, with a sufficient quantity of Pearl ashes, and boil it for an hour and a-halfi then take it out, and wash the lee out of it in clear running water, then wring it, and let it lie booked in the wrung state, (which makes it clear and open much better in the drying;) and lastly, put it upon poles, shake and dry it, and if the day be dr}', the pftener you go over it the better, as it tends to open the yarn, and make it clear and free : For the quantity of ashes required, see the Table. Explanation of the Fifteenth Table . The following Table shews the quantity of Pot and Pearl ashes required for the boiling and cleansing of linen yarn, from one to ten pounds, and advancing by 5, from 10 to 2000 pounds* S08 LINEN WEAVER’S Each page is divided into two parts, the right hand part into three columns, and the left into four; the column on the left hand contains the pounds of yarn to be boiled, the other three columns of each part contains the quantity of Pot and Pearl ashes required for the boiling and cleansing of the quan- tity of yarn in the first column. On the head of the columns. Lbs. stands for pounds, Oz. for oun- ces, Dr. for drams. EXAMPLE. Suppose you are to boil 100 pounds weight of linen yarn. Look in the first column on the left hand, and you will find 100 pounds, and in the same line under Pot and Pearl ashes, you will find the quantity of Pot ashes, required to be 8 pounds, 10 ounces, 14 drams, and of Pearl ashes, 12 oun- ces, 8 drams, which is the quantify required. ASSISTANT, 309 Yarn. Pot Ashes i Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Lbs, , 0 z. Dr. Lbs. Oz. Dr. l 0 1 6 0 0 2 . 2 0 2 12 0 0 4 S 0 4 2 0 0 6 4 0 5 8 0 0 8 _ 5 0 6 14 0 0 10 6 0 8 4 0 0 12 7 0 9 10 0 0 14 8 0 11 0 0 1 0 9 0 12 6 0 1 2 10 0 13 12 0 1 4 15 1 6 0 0 1 14 20 1 12 14 0 2 8 25 2 3 12 0 3 2 SO 2 10 10 0 3 12 35 3 1 8 0 4 6 40 3 8 6 0 5 0 45 3 15 4 0 5 10 50 4 6 2 0 6 4 55 4 13 0 0 6 14 60 5 3 14 0 7 8 65 5 10 12 0 \ •• 8 2 70 6 1 10 0 8 12 75 6 8 8 0 3 6 80 6 15 6 0 10 0 85 7 6 4 0 10 10 90 7 13 2 0 11 4 95 8 4 0 0 1 1 14 100 8 10 11 0 12 8 / / 310 LINEN weaver's Yarn. Pot Ashes, i Pearl Ashes. Lbs. V Lbs. Oz. Dr. Lbs. Oz. Dr. 105 9 l 12 0 13 2 110 9 8 10 0 13 12 115 9 15 8 0 14 6 120 10 6 6 0 15 0 125 10 13 4 , 0 15 10 J 30 11 4 2 1 0 4 135 11 10 0 1 0 14 140 12 0 14 1 1 8 145 12 7 12 1 0 2 150 12 14 10 1 2 12 155 13 5 8 1 3 8 160 13 12 6 1 4 2 165 14 3 4 1 4 12 170 14 10 2 1 5 6 175 15 1 0 • 1 6 0 180 35 7 14 1 6 10 185 15 14 12 1 7 4 190 16 5 10 1 7 14 195 16 , 12 8 1 8 8 200 37 3 6 l 9 2 205 17 10 4 l 9 12 210 18 1 2 1 10 6 215 18 8 0 I 11 0 220 18 14 14 1 - 11 10 225 19 5 12 l 12 4 230 19 12 10 1 12 14 235 20 3 8 1 13 8 240 20 10 - 6 1 14 2 ASSISTANT 311 Yarn. Pot Ashes 0 Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Lbs, Oz. Dr. Lbs. Oz, Dr. 245 21 1 4 1 14 12 250 21 8 2 1 15 6 255 21 15 0 2 0 0 260 22 5 14 2 0 10 265 22 12 12 2 1 4 270 23 3 10 2 1 14 275 23 10 8 2 2 8 280 24 1 6 2 3 2 285 24 8 4 2 3 12 290 24 15 2 2 4 6 295 25 6 0 2 5 0 300 25 12 14 2 5 10 SO 5 26 3 12 2 6 4 S10 26 10 10 2 6 14 315 27 1 8 2 7 8 320 57 8 6 2 8 2 325 27 15 4 2 8 12 330 28 6 ' 2 2 9 6 335 28 13 0 2 10 0 340 29 3 14 2 10 15 345 29 10 12 2 11 4 350 SO 1 10 2 14 14 355 30 8 8 2 12 8 360 SO 15 6 2 13 2 365 31 6 4 2 13 12 370 31 13 2 2 14 6 375 32 4 0 2 15 0 380 32 10 14 / 2 15 10 312 LINEN weaver’s Yarn. Pot Ashes • Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. Lbs. Oz. Dr, 385 33 1 12 3 0 4 390 33 8 10 3 0 14 395 33 15 8 3 1 8 400 34 6 6 3 2 2 405 34 13 4 3 2 12 410 35 4 2 3 3 6 415 35 11 0 3 4 0 420 36 1 14 3 4 10 425 36 8 12 3 5 4 430 36 15 10 3 5 14 435 37 6 8 3 6 8 440 37 13 6 3 7 2 445 38 4 4 3 7 12 450 38 11 2 3 8 6 455 39 2 0 3 9 0 460 39 8 14 3 9 10 465 39 15 12 3 10 4 470 40 6 10 3 10 14 475 40 13 8 3 11 8 480 41 4 6 3 12 2 485 41 11 4 3 12 12 490 42 2 2 3 13 6 595 42 9 0 3 14 0 500 42 15 14 3 14 10 505 43 6 12 3 15 9 510 43 13 10 3 15 14 515 44 4 8 4 0 8 520 44 11 6 4 1 2 ASSISTANT, 313 Yarn. Pot Ashes Lbs. Lbs. Oz. 525 45 2 530 45 9 535 46 0 540 46 6 545 4 6 13 550 47 4 555 47 11 560 48 2 56 5 48 9 570 49 0 575 49 7 580 4 9 13 585 50 4 590 50 11 595 51 2 600 51 9 610 52 0 615 52 7 620 52 14 625 53 4 630 53 11 635 54 2 640 54 9 645 55 0 650 55 7 655 56 14 660 57 5 665 57 11 Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Oz. Dr. 4 1 12 4 2 6 4 3 0 4 3 10 4 4 4 4 4 14 4 5 8 4 6 2 4 6 12 4 7 6 4 8 0 4 8 10 4 9 4 4 9 14 4 10 8 4 11 2 4 11 12 4 12 6 4 13 0 4 13 10 4 14 4 4 14 14 4 15 8 5 0 2 5 0 12 5 16 5 2 0 5 2 10 Dr. 4 2 O 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 O 4 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 14 r r 9 31 4 > LINEN weaver’s Yarn. Pot Ashes • Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Lbs. 0 z. Dr. Lbs. Oz. Dr 670 58 2 12 5 3 4 675 58 9 10 5 3 14 680 59 0 8 5 4 8 685 59 7 6 5 5 2 690 59 14 4 5 5 12 695 60 5 2 5 6 6 700 60 12 0 5 . 7 0 705 61 2 14 5 7 10 710 61 9 12 5 8 4 715 62 0 10 5 8 14 720 62 7 8 5 9 8 725 62 1.4 6 5 10 2 730 63 5 4 5 10 12 755 63 12 2 5 11 6 740 64 3 0 5 12 0 745 64 9 14 5 12 10 750 65 0 12 5 13 4 755 65 7 10 5 13 14 760 65 14 8 5 14 8 765 66 5 6 5 15 2 770 66 12 4 5 15 12 775 67 3 2 6 0 6 780 67 10 0 6 1 0 785 68 0 14 6 1 10 790 68 7 12 6 2 4 795 68 14 10 6 2 14 800 69 5 8 6 3 8 805 69 12 6 6 4 o w ASSISTANT 315 Yarn. Pot Ashes Lbs. Lbs. Oz. 810 70 3 815 70 10 820 71 1 825 71 7 830 71 14 835 72 5 840 72 12 845 73 3 850 73 10 855 74 1 860 74 8 865 74 14 870 75 5 8 75 75 12 880 76 3 885 7 6 10 890 77 1 895 77 8 900 77 15 905 78 5 910 78 12 915 79 3 920 79 10 925 80 1 930 80 8 935 80 15 940 81 6 945 81 12 Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Oz. Dr. 6 4 12 -6 5 6 6 6 O 6 6.1 0 6 14 6 7 14 6 8 8 6 9 2 6 9 12 6 10 6 6 11 0 6 11 10 6 12 4 6 12 14 6 13 8 6 14 2 6 14 12 6 15 6 7 0 0 7 0 10 7 1 4 7 1 14 7 2 8 7 3 2 7 3 12 7 4 6 7 A O 7 5 10 Dr. 4 2 O 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 14 1 € 10 8 6 4 2 0 14 316 LINEN WEAVER’S Yarn. Pot Ashes. Pearl Ashes. Lbs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. Lbs. Oz. Dr 950 82 3 12 7 6 4 955 82 10 10 7 6 14 960 83 1 8 7 7 8 965 83 8 6 7 8 2 970 83 15 4 7 8 12 975 84 6 2 7 9 6 980 84 13 0 7 10 0 985 85 3 14 7 10 10 990 85 10 12 7 11 4 995 86 1 10 7 11 14 1000 86 8 8 7 12 8 ASSISTANT. SIT Explanation of the Sixteenth Table. The following Table shews when a web is run in o the warping with any number of pinfuis (or half- gangs,) how many pins of an evener (raith or ra- vel,) any number of bouts will fill, run with any number of pinfuis, from 1 to 8 pinfuis, and from l to 50 bouts. The page is divided into 4 parts, and each part into 2 columns; the left hand col- umn of each part contains the number of bouts in the web ; and the right hand column of each part, the pins of an evener that the bouts in the left hand column will fill, run with the number of pin- fuis (or half-gangs) marked on the head of the col- umns. The pinfuis are marked on the head of the columns. On the head of the columns, B. stands for bouts, and P. for pins. EXAMPLE. Suppose a web having 16 bouts run with 6 pin- fids (or half-gangs.) Look in the left hand column of the part under 6 pinfuis, and you will find 16 bouts, and the right hand column of the part you will find 192, w hich is the number of pins 16 bouts w ill fill, run with 6 pinfuis, (or half-gangs.) If there are more pinfuis or more bouts than is contained in the Table, add any two numbers to- gether that will make out the number you want. Note . — A bout of the warping-mill is from the rod lease forks at the top of the mill, to the pin lease forks at the bottom, and up again. SIB LINEN WEAVER’S 1 Pin fill. 2 Pinfuls. 8 Pinfuls. 4 Pinfuls. B. P JL • B. P. B. P. B. P. l 2 l 4 1 6 1 8 o <4* 4 2 8 2 12 2 16 3 6 3 12 3 18 3 24 4 8 4 16 4 24 4 32 5 10 5 20 5 SO 5 40 6 12 6 24 6 36 6 48 7 14 7 28 i 42 7 56 8 16 8 32 8 48 8 64 9 18 9 36 9 54 9 72 10 20 10 40 10 60 10 80 1 l 2 2 1 1 44 1 1 66 1 1 88 ] 2 24 12 48 12 72 12 96 7 3 26 13 52 13 78 13 104 14 28 14 56 1 4 84 14 112 15 SO 15 60 15 90 15 120 36 32 16 61 16 96 16 128 17 34 17 68 17 102 17 136 18 86 18 72 18 108 18 144 19 33 19 76 19 1 14 19 152 90 40 20 80 20 120 20 160 91 42 21 84 21 126 21 168 22 44 22 88 22 1 82 22 176 23 46 23 92 23 1 88 23 184 24 48 24 99 24 144 24 J 0,0 25 50 25 100 25 150 25 200 26 52 26 104 26 1 56 26 208 27 54 27 108 27 162 27 216 23 56 28 1 12 28 168 28 224 29 58 29 1 J 6 29 174 29 232 30 60 30 120 30 180 30 240 ASSISTANT. 319 5 Pinfuls. 6 Pinfuls. 7 Pinfuls. 8 Pinfuls. B. P. B. P. B. P. B. P. 1 to 1 12 1 14 1 16 cy & 20 2 21 2 28 2 32 3 30 3 36 3 42 3 48 4 40 4 48 4 56 4 64 5 50 5 60 5 70 5 80 6 60 6 72 6 84 6 96. 7 70 7 84 7 93 7 112 8 80 8 96 8 1 12 8 3 28 9 90 9 108 9 126 9 144 10 100 10 120 10 140 10 160 11 110 1 1 132 11 154 1 i 176 12 120 12 144 12 168 12 192 13 130 13 156 13 182 13 or- o i-PO 14 HO 14 168 14 196 14 22 4 15 150 15 180 15 210 15 240 16 160 16 192 16 224 16 256 17 170 17 204 17 238 17 272 18 180 18 216 18 252 18 288- 19 190 19 223 19 266 19 304 20 200 20 240 20 280 20 320 21 210 21 2 52 21 294 21 336 22 220 22 264 22 308 22 3 52 23 230 23 276 23 322 23 368 24 240 24 288 24 336 2 4 384 25 250 25 300 25 350 25 400 26 260 26 312 26 364 26 416 27 270 27 324 27 373 27 432 28 280 28 336 28 392 28 448 OQ Am! 290 29 348 29 406 29 464 30 300 80 360 SO 420 30 480 320 linen we aver’s Of the Threads in the Reed . Plain cloth in general, is woven with only two threads in the split, but in tweeling and different kinds of figured work, three or more threads are requisite, (except a slight fabric be wanted,) for the purpose of giving the cloth the strength necessary for the purpose to which it is to be applied ; and in figured work to make the figures have that beau- tiful and bold appearance upon the one side of the cloth, which could not be effected with only two in the split. Bed tick is generally weaved 3 and 4 in the split; sacking 3 and four in the split ; huckaback 3 or more in the split ; sheeting 3 or more in the split; damask and diaper from 3 to 8 in the split ; plaid- ing 5 and 4 in the split ; serge 3 and 4 in the split ; blankets 3 and 4 in the split, dzc. In fact there is no particular rule for this ; the Manufacturer and Weaver must in his own judgment choose the way which will best please his employer, and meet the purpose for which it is intended ; for instance, if bed tick is to hold feathers, it will require to be closer than if it was to hold chaff, or any other material employed for the filling of beds, as they are more ready to come out through the cloth ; so, by this means, the yarn will either need to be a ASSISTANT. 321 little heavier, or more threads in the split as may be thought most convenient, &c. To find by figure how much of the reed any number of common porters warp, will fill, having more than 2 in the split. Mule . — Multiply the common porters bv 40 , and divide by the threads to be put in the split, by 20, the splits in a porter, and by 5 , the porters in a hundred. Suppose 65 common porters warp, how much of a reed will be filled, if 5 threads be put in each j split? Porters. 65 40 « — . i i ; threads in the split 5)2600( splits in a common porter ?|o)52|o splits, porters in one hundred 5)26 porters, 5—1 Aos. 5 hundreds and 1 porter.— -See the Table. Explanation of the Eighteenth Table , The following Table shews how much of a reed any number of common porters, of 2 in the split will fill, having 5, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 threads in the split. The page is divided into three parts, and * * p 9 LINJSN WEAVER'S each part into four columns ; the. first column of each part contains the common porters, 2 in the split; the other three columns contain the hun- dreds, porters, and splits, that will be filled by the porters in the first column, having the number of threads in the split marked on the head of the columns; the number of threads are marked on the head of the columns. On the head of the columns Pwp. stands for porters warp, P. for por- ters, H. for hundreds, S. for splits. EXAMPLE. Suppose 60 porters, 2 in the split, how much of a reed will be filled, if there be 5 put in the split ? Look on the head of the columns for five threads, and in the left hand column of the part under five threads, you will find 60 porters, and in the same line of the other columns of the part, you will find 4 hundreds and 4 porters, which is the num- ber of hundreds and porters, that 60 porters warp will fill, if there are 5 threads, put in the split. If you have more porters warp than the table contains, add any two numbers together, that will make out the number you want.. ASSISTANT. 32i! 4- * — 1 3 Threads. 4 Threads. 5 Threads, Pwp. H. P. a Pwp. H. P. S. Pwp. H. P. a 1 0 0 IS 1 0 0 10 1 0 0 8 g 0 1 6 o 0 1 0 2 0 0 16 3 0 0 0 3 0 1 10 3 0 1 4 4 0 2 13 4 0 2 0 4 0 1 12 5 0 3 6 5 0 2 10 5 0 2 0 6 0 4 0 6 0 3 0 6 0 2 8 7 0 4 13 i 0 3 10 7 0 2 16 8 1 0 6 8 0 4 0 8 0 3 4 9 1 1 0 9 0 4 10 9 0 3 12 10 1 1 13 10 1 0 0 10 0 4 0 11 1 2 6 1 1 1 0 10 1 1 0 4 8 32 1 3 0 12 1 1 0 12 0 4 16 IS 1 3 13 13 1 1 10 13 1 0 4 14 1 4 6 14 1 2 0 14 1 0 12 15 2 0 0 15 1 o +* 10 15 1 1 0 IS 2 0 13 16 1 3 0 16 1 1 8 17 2 1 6 17 1 3 10 17 1 1 16 18 2 2 0 38 1 4 0 18 1 2 4 19 2 2 13 19 1 4 10 10 1 2 1 2 20 2 3 6 20 o 0 0 20 1 3 0 25 3 1 33 25 o o !0 25 2 0 0 30 4 0 0 30 n O 0 0 .30 2 2 0 S5 4 3 6 35 n x) 2 10 35 2 4 0 40 5 1 13 40 4 0 0 40 3 1 0 45 6 0 0 45 4 2 10 45 O v> 3 0 50 6 o o 6 50 5 0 0 £0 4 0 0 55 7 1 13 55 5 o U 10 5 5 4 2 0 60 8 0 0 60 6 0 0 60 4' 4 0 65 8 3 6 65 6 0 10 65 5 1 0 70 9 1 13 70 7- 0 0 70 5 S 0 > ' V 324 ? linen weaver’s 6 r Fhreads. i 7 Threads 8 Threads Pwp. H. P. s. Pwp. H. P. S. Pwp. H. P. s. I 0 0 1 0 0 54 . 1 0 0 5 2 0 0 13 2 0 0 11 2 0 0 10 3 0 1 0 3 0 0 17 3 0 0 15 4 0 1 6i 4 0 3 H 4 0 1 0 5 0 1 13 5 0 1 8 5 0 1 5 6 0 2 0 6 0 1 14 6 0 ] 10 7 0 2 64 7 0 2 0 7 0 1 15 8 0 2 13 8 0 2 5 8 0 2 0 9 0 3 0 9 0 2 1 1 9 0 2 5 10 0 S 10 0 2 17 10 0 2 10 1 I 0 S 13 11- 0 3 *4 1 1 0 2 15 12 0 4 0 12 0 3 8 12 0 3 0 33 0 4 6 ■§ IS 0 3 14 13 0 3 5 34 0 4 13 14 0 4 0 14 0 3 10 35 1 0 0 15 0 4 54 15 0 3 15 36 1 0 64 16 0 4 1 1 1 6 0 4 0 17 1 0 is 17 0 *4 17 17 0 4 5 38 3 1 0 18 1 0 4k# 18 0 4 30 19 1 I JU 19 1 0 8 19 0 4 1 5 20 1 1 13 20 1 0 14 20 1 0 0 25 1 3 6 25 1 2 3 25 1 0 5 30 2 0 0 30 1 3 1 1 30 1 0 10 35 2 1 13 S5 2 0 0 35 1 0 3 5 40 2 3 6 40 2 1 S 40 1 1 0 45 S 0 0 45 2 2 17 4 5 1 1 5 SO 3 1 13 50 2 4 5 50 1 1 10 55 S «ul 6 55 3 vO 14 55 1 1 15 60 4 0 0 60 3 2 3 60 1 2 0 65 4 i IS 65 3 3 1 1 65 1 2 5 70 4 3 6 70 4 0 0 70 1 <0 10 32 5 ASSISTANT. „ 1 : • \ ' ■ — . — — - — '• Of the Setting of Yarn to Reeds . A most essential part in the manufacture of cloth, (and a part which no manufacturer ought to be ignorant of,) is to proportion the yarn for the web, whether light or heavy, to the different reed?, so as to produce the fabric of doth required ; and is termed, (cambing, setting, or sleying :) the se* lection of proper yarn for warps, must first be ac- quired by experience, practice, and reflection, and when the proper size (or grist) of yarn is known, suitable for any one set (or fabric,) the yarn suih> hie for any other set following proportion, As the square of the known reed Is to the square of any other reed, So is the known weight (or grist) of yarn To the grist of yarn fitting for that set. The proportioning of yarn to reeds in order to produce cloth suitable for the purposes required, although of very much importance in the manu- facture of cloth, has generally been very much he- greeted, and can only be accounted for by the very partial manner in which it has b e e 11 treated in general, by those who have wrote upon the art of weaving. By the set of the reed is to be und,er*» stood the number of splits contained upon a given breadth, without having any regard to the number of splits that may be occupied by the warp, for al- though the reed may be made upon any certain breadth, there may be more or less of that breadth occupied, and still the set of the reed is the same, (See page 1 rs.) as the reed is exactly the scale by which the threads of the warp are distributed and may be easily found by the regulated ; and it equally effects the fineness or coarseness of the fabric of cloth, whether the breadth he a quarter or a yard. The fineness of any two parcels of yarn may be known by the number of threads in any limited length, contained in a given weight of the one, if compared with a number of threads of the same length, contained in the same weight of the other. If the threads of both parcels be wound up upon reels of equal circumferences, there will be a greater number of threads in the one parcel than the other, if the two parcels be of different fine- ness, and the same weight of both • for instance, if two parcels be made up in hiers, and a pound weight each parcel, the parcels when counted, the one contains 18 hiers, and the other 32 hiers, shews that the one parcel contains 14 hiers more than the other, and of course, is all the difference liner in the grist, and will require to be wove in a finer reed to make a similar fabric, to the coarse yarn weaved in any other reed fitting for it. But of the fabrication of cloth, no exact definition has ever been given what it really is ; if it be supposed that each thread in the reed touches the one next to it in a coarse web, and suppose what will produce the same effect in a fine web, wc will very readily call it a similar fabric, and so it is, for if the threads in a fine reed bear as close upon the splits of the reed, as j'arn that is weaved in any other coarse fabric, we must certainly judge it to be a similar fabric, the proportion betwixt the two reeds can easily be taken, and with equal ease be traced to any other reed. Sonic former writers upon the art of weaving, have termed it the thickness of ASSISTANT. ' 4 * the doth, from the under to the upper superficies of it ; but I must beg leave to differ with then), and take it in the sense generally used among weavers, that is, the crowding of the warp and weft together, which, I think, is the only true way it can be understood with respect to cloth, as doth cannot be understood to be a solid ; I think k entirely superfluous to enter into the different, degrees and ratio of twine upon the different sizes., and grists of yarn, or how many turns or twists, each size will require to the inch, to make the yarn of full strength to undergo the operation of weaving, as yarn needs always the degree of twine to meet the purpose to which it is to be applied t for example, if the weft of a web be very hard twined, it will be very difficult to make the cloth as thick as may be required, and the cloth will not have that beautiful and soft appearance which it would otherwise 'have, if 1 softly twined; to remedy this, it is the practice among weavers, to take a wooden mallet and beat the yarn upon a stone, to give it that degree of softness necessary, then roll it up in wet cloths, or lay it on a damp floor for a time ; this also serves a double purpose,, as it com- municates some degree of the damp to the warp* makes it more pliable to weave, and in dry wea- ther, prevents it from breaking to that degree which it otherwise would, if the weft were put on the web without any previous preparation ; also, if the weft does not bear some degree of proportion to the warp,, the cloth will be greatly deficient in the look, and either the warp will cut the weft, or the weft the warp, in the course of wear ; either , of therm warp or wed, alternately, as thev " differ in 328 LINEN WEAVER’S the clue proportion from one another. Generally in the making of plain doth, the weft is somewha 1 lighter than the warp, which makes the best cloth and at the same time, it is the most beautiful ir appearance, if the difference is not too great Indeed there are different fabrics in the Dundet and Rircaldy manufacture, which require the weft to be a considerable deal coarser than the warp, in order to answer the purposes to which it is to be applied; such as Sheeting, Canvas, Bag* ging, Sacking, $c. fyc. But upon the whole, the attention paid by manufacturers, has been by far too little to a part of so much importance in the manufacture of cloth, for what reason I cannot say, whether carelessness or the supposed difficulty of managing square numbers and the extraction ot the roots; but I can say this, for it is evident it is neglected, and this particular part of the business never brought into any regular system : I think it highly proper that there should be some fixed standard, from which every manufacturer can deviate, according to the taste of his customers, or the prevailing fashion at the time: for the purpose of partly remedying these obstacles, I shall illus- trate the principles of cambing, setting, or stay- ing, by a Table of the squares of reeds, rules, and examples, sufficiently plain and easy to be understood, by any one of an ordinary capacity, who has any knowledge of numbers. Explanation of the Ninteenth Table . The following Table shews the square of any set of -a reed, from 5 to 2i hundreds, by half-sets, ready cast ASSISTANT. 329 up. The Table is divided into three parts, and each part into 2 columns; the left hand column of each part contains the number of the reed, and the right hand column of the part, the square of the reed contained in the same line of the left hand column. On the head of the columns, Reed stands for reed, Sqr. for square. EXAMPLE. Suppose you want to know the square of a 10 hundred reed. Look in the column under reed, and you will find 10 hundreds, and in the same line of the column of the part marked on the head Sqr. you hundred will find reed. 100 , which is the TABLE, square O *** £3 O Reed. Sqr. Reed. Sqr. Reed. Sqr. 5 25 ' ll 121 17 289 H 30 114 1 32 306 6 36 12 144 18 324 64 42 124 156 184 342 7 49 13 169 19 361 74 56 is4 182 194 380 8 64 , 14 196 20 400 8 a 72 210 204 420 9 81 15 225 2 I 44$ H 90 154 240 22 484 10 100 16 256 23 529 10J 1 10 164 272 24 576 Notes ~- After having selected from the Table, the square of the reed required, state the questions by the following rules. Rule . — Place that number to the right hand which is of the same kind with the number sought, | and consider from the nature of the question* x t 10 $ ' 330 LINEN WEAVER^ whether the answer ought to be greater or less than the number known ; if greater, place the least of the other numbers upon the left hand, and the re- maining number in the middle ; but if less, place the greater number on the left hand, and the re- maining number in the middle; square the hun- dreds of the reed, (if the square is not selected from the Table,) and multiply the middle term by the number on the right hand, and divide by the number on the left, which gives the answer. Examples in Cambvng or Setting by the Weight of the Spyndle . If a 1200 reed require yarn 8 ounces per spyn- dle, what weight of yarn will a 1600 reed require to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. 0 z. 16 : 12 : : 8 16 12 96 144 16 8 256 256)1152(4 ounces. 1024 128 16 768 128 256)2048(8 drams, 2048 4 ounces 8 drams per spyndle. ASSISTANT* S31 If a 1600 reed requires yarn 4 ounces 8 drams per spyndle, what weight of yarn will a 1200 reed require to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. o CNJ • 12 « ■« 16 : : 4- 12 16 16 144 96 32 16 4 2 56 72 72 512 1792 144)18432(128(8 Ounces. 144 128 403 288 1152 1152 Ans, 8 ounces per spyndle. J 332 LINEN WEAVER’S If shirt Linen require yarn 24 ounces per spyn- tile to be woven in a 1000 reed, what weight per spyndle will require to be woven in a 1500 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. Oz. 15 : 10 : : 24 15 10 75 100 15 24- 225 400 200 225)24oo(lo ounces. •225 150 16 ounces in a pound 900 150 225)2400(10 drams. ( 2 25 150 2 225 Z Ans* 10 ounces 101 drams per spyndle. ASSISTANT. 533 If shirt Linen require yarn 10 ounces 30 § drams per spyndle, to be woven in a 1500 reed, what weight of yarn per spyndle will a 100 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Dr. 101 H. H. Oz. 30 15 : : 10 10 13 16 100 7 5 90 15 10 c 1 225 170 512 3 450 512 225 1125 ;) ig) !00)1 15200(1 152(384(24 ounces, 100 9 32 152 100 520 500 25 24 12 12 200 200 64 64 Am, 24 ounces per spyndle. 334 - linen weaver’s Cambing or Setting by the Weight of the half Spyndle . If clear lawn require yarn 8 ounces per half spyndle for a 700 reed, what will the weight of the half spyndle require to be, to make cloth of a simi- lar fabric, woven in a 1400 reed? H. H. Oz. 14 : 7 : 8 14 7 56 49 14 8 m -_l I nil ™ ' y 1 96 1 96)392(2 ounces. 392 Ans. 2 ounces per half spyndle. If the half spyndle require to be 2 ounces woven in a 1400 reed for clear lawn, what will the weight of the half spyndle require to be, to make cloth of a similar fabric in a 700 reed ? H. H, Oz. 7 14 : : 2 7 14 49 56 14 196 2 49)392(8 ounces. 592 Ans. 8 ounces per half spyndle* ASSISTANT. 335 If Bed Tick, 4 in the split, require yarn 18 ounces per half spyndle, to be woven in an 800 reed, what weight will the half spyndle require to be, to make cloth of a similar fabric in a 1200 reed? H. H. Oz. 12 a • 8 : : 18 12 & 144 64 18 512 64 144)1152(8 ounces* 1152 AnS. 8 ounces per half spyndle. If an 800 reed require yarn 8 ounces per half spyndle, to be woven for bed tick, 4 threads in the split, what weight per half spyndle will be required to suit. a 1200 reed, to malic doth of a similar fa- bric ? I-L lb O z. 8 ; 12 : : 8 8 12 64 144 8 64)1152(18 ounces, 64 512 512 Ans. 18 ounces per half spyndle. 336 / LINEN WEAVER'S Cambing or Setting by the Weight of the Hank. If a 1200 reed require yarn 4 ounces per hapk, what weight per hank will a 1600 require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. Oz, 16 : 12 : : 4 16 12 96 144 16 4 250 256(576(2 512 64 16 384 ounces. 64 256)1024(4 drams, 1024 Ans; 2 ounces 4 drams per hank ASSISTANT. 337 If a 1600 reed require yarn 2 ounces 4 drams per hank, what weight per hank, N will a 1200 re- H, H a Oz. 12 : 16 : : 2— 12 16 16 144 96 16 16 2 256 .56 86 1556 . - - 768 — 16 ) 144)92] 6(64(4 ounces, 864 Dr. —4 576 576 Ans. 4 ounces per hank. If an 800 reed, 4 in the split, for bed tick, require yarn 9 ounces per hank, what weight per hank, will a A 200 reed require to make cloth of a similar fabric? H 0 H. Oz. 12 : 8 : : 9 12 8 144 64 9 144)576(4 ounces. 576 Ans. 4 ounces per hank* u u 10 LIKEN WEAVER^ 338 If a 1200 reed, 4 in the split, for bed tick, require yarn 4 ounces per hank, what weight per hank, will an 800 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fa- bric ? H. H« Oh. 8 : 12 : : 4 8 12 64 144 4 V 64)576(9 ounces. 576 Ans. 9 ounces per hank* Note . — If there are more than three terms, take each pair of similar numbers, pair by pair, and by comparing them with the numbers known, as in the rule, determine whether the answer ought to be greater or less than that number, and multiply the terms thus classed into one another, then proceed as the rule directs, with three terms to find a fourth. i ASSISTANT. S39 If a 1200 reed on 37 inches require yarn 4 oun- ces per hank* what weight per hank will be requir- ed for a 1600 reed on 40 inches* to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. 16 : 12 16 12 96 144 / 16 37 • — f~) 1 2S6 1008 40 / 432 10240 5328 4 10240 ) 21312(2 ounces® 20480 832 16 4992 832 10240)13312(1 dram. 10240 1024 3072 3 10240 10 Ans, 2 ounces l T s n drams® 340 LINEN WEAVER’S If a 1600 reed on 40 inches requires yarn 2 oun- ces 1 Yj-j drams per hank, what weight of yarn will a 1200 reed on 37 inches require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. 12 : 12 H. 16 : : 16 Oz. 2 lf(5 16 144 37 96 16 13 2 3008 432 256 40 33 ~ 10 5328 10240 333 333“ * -J . 30720 30720 30720 10 ) 16 ) 5328)3409920(640(64(4 OUnceSo 31968 60 64 21312 40 21312 40 O Ans. 4 ounces per hank. Note . — If there are fractions in any term, all the terms must be reduced to the same name, and di- vided by the ^ame name also. ASSISTANT. 341 If am800 reed on 54 inches require yarn 5 oun- ces per hank, what weight of yarn per hank? will he required to weave in a 1600 reed on 40 inches^ to make cloth of a similar fabric ? 0 z„ EL H. 16 : 8 16 8 96 64 16 34 256 256 '40 192 10240 2176 5 10240)10880(1 ounce* 10240 640 16 drams in an ounce, 3840 640 10240)10240(1 dram, 10240 Ans, 1 ounce 1 dram. 342 LINEN WEAVER S If a 1600 reed on 40 inches require yarn 1 ounce l dram per hank, what weight per hank, will an 800 reed on 54 inches require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. 8 8 H. 16 16 Oz. Dr. i—i 16 €4 54 96 16 17 256 192 2176 256 40 ErrTTCTK . ’mrrrTi wwn 10240 17 71680 10240 2176)174080(80(5 ounces. 17408 80 O Ans. 5 ounces. / ASSISTANT. 343 Cambing or Setting of Linen Yarn by the Hiers in a Pound Weight If yarn 18 hiers in the pound be woven in a 1000 reed, how many hiers in the pound will be required for a 1 500 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. He Hrs. 10 10 : 15 : : 18 15 100 * 1 75 15 225 18 1800 225 100)4050(40 hiers. 400 s - . . / 50 2 cuts in a hier. 100)100(1 cut. 100 Ans, 40 hiers 1 cut* 4 I 344 LINEN WEAVER’S If yarn 1 6 hiers in the pound be woven in an 800 reed, how many hiers in the pound will a 1200 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? He H. Hrs. 8 : 12 :: 16 8 12 64 144 16 864 144 64)2304(36 hiers. 192 384 384 Ans. 36 hiers. If 40 hiers 1 cut per pound be woven in a 1 500 eed, how many hiers in the pound will a 1000 reed H. He Hrs. 15 : 10 © e • « 40- 15 10 2 75 100 81 15 8 i 225 100 800 225)8100(36 hiers. 6T5 135° 1350 Ans. 36 hiers. ASSISTANT, M5 If 36 hiers in the pound, be woven in a 1500 reed, how many hiers in the pound, will be requir- ed for a 1000 reed, to make cloth of a similar fa- bric ? H. H. 15 : 10 15 10 75 JOO 15 36 225 600 300 225)3600(16 hiers 225 1350 1350 Hrs. 36 Ans, 16 hiers. x x 10 34-6 LINEN WEAVER’S Cambing or Setting by the Cuts in a Pound Weight If an 800 reed require yarn 32 cuts in the pound, how many cuts in the pound, will a 1400 reed re- quire, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Cuts. : : 52 H. H. 8 • « 14 8 14 64 56 14 196 32 592 588 64)6272(98 cuts* 576 512 512 • — — Ans. 98 cuts. If a 1200 reed require yarn 72 cuts per pound how many cuts per pound, will a 2000 reed require; to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Cuts. : : 72 H. H. 12 • « 20 12 20 144 400 72 800 2800 144)28800(200 cuts. 288 00 Ans. 200 cuts ASSISTANT. 347 Cambing or Setting of Linen Yarn by the threads in ' a Pound Weight . If 5840 threads of 90 inches each, be in a pound weight, and the reed required be a 1000, how many threads in the pound will be required to make cloth of a similar fabric, in a 1 500 reed ? H. H. Threads. 10 l J 5 1 : 5840 10 15 100 75 15 225 5840 9000 1800 675 100)864000(8640 threads. 800 640 600 400 400 O An s. 8640 threads equal to 56 hiers. Note.— To bring threads to cuts, divide by 120, and cuts to biers by 2. V 348 LINEN WEAVERS If yarn containing 9600 threads of 90 inches each, in the pound, be woven in a 1200 reed, how many threads in the pound will an 1800 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. Threads. 12 : 18 : : 9600 12 18 144 144 18 324 9600 194400 2916 144)31 10400(21600 threads, 288 230 144 864 864 00 Ans. 21600 threads equal to 90 biers* / ASSISTANT, 849 * Carnbing or Setting of Linen Yarn by the Inches m a Pound Weight , If a parcel of yarn containing 864000 inches per pound, be woven in a 1200 reed, how many inches per pound, will an 1800 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? H. H. In. 12 : 18 : : 364000 12 18 144 144 18 32 4 864000 1296000 1944 2592 144)279936000(1914000 inches, 144 1359 1296 FT W o oo 576 576 576 000 Arts, 1344000 inches* 35 0 LINEN WEAVER’S Ccimbing or Setting of Linen Yarn to Reeds by the Memory. Suppose that you receive a quantity of linen yarn to weave for shirting, weigh it, and ascertain how many hiers are in the pound, English, then ask how many times there are threes in the number of hiers; add to the whole number of threes you find, 400, and the amount shews you the reed required for your yarn ; but if you want a stout fabric, add 500 in place of 400. Note . — Although this plan is not exzyctly mathe- matical, it may suit when a person is asked abrupt- ly what reed a quantity of yarn should go into for Shirting, if it is known how many hiers of it goes to the pound weight. EXAMPLES. Suppose you receive yarn 24 hiers in the pound weight, what reed should it go into for Shirting ? Example 1st. Example 2d . Hiers. 3)24( 8 400 3 200 Reed. Hiers. 3)5 8 ( 6 400 1000 Reed. i ASSISTANT. 351 Example 3d. Hiers. 500 added. 5)24( 8 500 1 300 Reed. Example 4th, Hiers. 3)18( 6 500 1100 Reed. You will see by the above, that by knowing the number of hiers in the pound weight, you may set linen shirting without the knowledge of arithmetic. Examples shewing how to find what Reed will do for any weight of Yarn, Rule , — Place the number of the reed already known on the right hand, for the right hand term, (because it is of the same name with the number sought ;) and consider from the nature of the ques- tion, whether the number of the reed sought, ought to be greater or less than the number of the reed already known ; if it ought to be greater, place the least of the other numbers on the left hand term, and the remaining number in the middle, for the middle term ; but if less, place the greater number on the left hand, and the lesser number in the middle * (square the number of the reed, if not se- 35 2 LINEN WEAVER’S lected from the Table :) multiply the middle term by the term on the right hand, and divide by the term on the left, which gives the square of the reed sought. EXAMPLES. If yarn 36 hiers in the pound, be woven in a 1 500 reed, what reed will be required for yarn 1 6 hiers in the pound, to make cloth of a similar fab- ric ? Hrs. Hrs. H. 56 16 : : 15 225 15 80 7 5 52 15 52 • ' 225 36)3600(100 sqr. of reed sought. 36 00 Note . — Here the square of the reed suitable for yarn 16 hiers in the pound is only given, and the root of that square must be found by extraction, before the true number, (or set) of the reed is known. Rule 1st. Point off the given number from the right hand, or unit place, into periods of two fi- gures each. 2d. Find the greatest square of the left hand period, place its root in the quotient, substract the square from the said period, and to the remainder annex the next period. 5d. Double the root for a divisor, and find how often it is contained in the dividend, excluding the figure in the place of units, and place the result of both m the quotient, and unit places of the divisor. ASSISTANT. 35$ 4th. Multiply the divisor thus increased, by the last figure in the quotient (or root,) substract the product as before, annex another period to the re- mainder, and so on until the dividend is exhausted, and the root of the number found. EXAMPLE. Required the Square Root of 2304. 4) ? 23’ 04(48 root. 16 88)* 7’04 7’04 Ans. 48 root of 2304, If the square of the reed suitable for yarn 1 6 biers in the pound be 100, what is the number of the reed? Square. l)i , oo(lo reed sought. I , 20/00 Ans. 10 hundred, the reed sought. If yarn 16 hiers per pound, be woven in a 1000 reed, what reed will yarn 36 hiers in the pound re- quire, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Hiers. Pliers. H. 16 : 36 :: 10 100 10 — — — 100 16)3600(225 sqr, of the reed sought. 32 • 40 32 * 80 80 354 ? LINEN WEAVER’S If the square of the reed suitable for yarn 36 hier; in the pound be 225, what is the number of the reed ; 1)2*25(15 reed sought, l 25)1’25 l’25 If yarn 9 ounces per hank, be suitable for an 80C reed, what reed ought yarn 4 ounces per hank, to b< woven into, to make cloth of a similar fabric. Oz. Oz. H. 4 : 9 : : 8 8 64 4)576(144 square of the reed sought. 4 64 36 17 16 If the sqr. of the reed suitable for yarn 4 ounce! per hank be 144, what is the number of the reed : l)i’44(i2 reed sought. 1 22)* 44 44 ASSISTANT. 355 If yarn 4 ounces per hank, be woven in a 1200 reed, what reed will yarn 2 ounces 4 drains per hank, be woven into? Oz. Oz» H. 2 — 4 : 4 : : 12 16 16 12 16 24 144 2 4 56 64 144 256 256 1 64 . 56)9216(256 square of the reed sought* 72 201 180 216 216 If the square of the reed suitable for yarn 2 ounces 4 drams per hank be 256, what is the set of the reed? 1)2*56(16 reed sought* 1 J |[ U c 26)1*56 1*56 356 LINEN WEAVER’S Questions for Practice . If yarn that weighs 3 ounces per hank, work in a 1400 reed, what weight will work in a 900 reed, to make cloth in the same proportion? Ans. 7 ounces drams. If yarn that weighs 7 ounces 4-fj drams work in a 900 reed, what weight will work in a 1400 reed? Ans. 3 ounces. John Thrum received from a country Lady 24 spyndles linen yarn, of which, 8 spyndies weighed 3^; oz. 8—4 oz. and 8 — ounces, which she wishes made into shirting; and although the yarn is not all one weight, she wishes it proportioned, as near as possible, to a shirting she got formerly wove in a 1600 reed ; the yarn of which, weighed 9 ounces per spyndle; what reed should the Lady’s web be wove into? Ans. a 1200 reed. If yarn 4 ounces per hank, be woven in a 1200 reed, what weight of yarn should be woven in a 1500f reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric? Ans. 2 ounces 6|- drams per hank. If yarn 1 pound 2 ounces per spyndle, be woven in a 1300 reed, what weight per spyndle should be wove in a 1700 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric? Ans. 10y|y drams per spyndle. If yarn weighing 4 ounces per half spyndle, be wove in a 1600 reed, what weight will an 8004- reed require, to make cloth of a like proportion? Ans. M ounces, 3-g drams. ASSISTANT* 357 If yarn weighing 2 ounces 6|. drams per hank, be woven in a 1 500 reed, what weight of yarn ought to be woven in a 1200 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Ans. 4 ounces per hank, Timothy Temple received SO spyndles yarn, 24 hiers in the pound, to be made into Holland, reed on 40 inches, and it must be made similar to yarn 3 ounces per hank, in a 1000 reed, what is the square of the reed, and what reed should it go in- to ? Ans. 200 the square and 1400-^- the set of the reed. If yarn 1 6 hiers in the pound, be woven in a 1000 reed, how many hiers in the pound, will be required to weave in a 1 500 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric ? Ans. 36 hiers per pound. If yarn 36 hiers in the pound, be woven in a 1200 reed, how many hiers in the pound, will an 800 reed require, to make cloth of a similar fabric? Ans. 16 hiers per pound. If a 1 600 reed require yarn 2 ounces 4 drams per hank, what will a 1200 reed require, to make similar work ? Ans. 4 ounces. If an 800 reed require yarn 9 ounces per hank, 5 in the split, how many ounces per hank, will a 1200 reed require, to make cloth similar ? Ans. 4 ounces. Note. — As I have given so many examples on the selection of yarn to reeds, and reeds to yarn, on account of its great importance in the art of weav- ing, it is superfluous to state many questions and answers for practice, as the greatest variety of questions can be selected from the Setting Tables, for all the different kinds of work. 358 LINEN WEAVER’S Explanation of the following Tiuenty Setting Tables . The following Tables shew how to set (camb or sley) different kinds of linen cloth, the reed being counted on the inches marked on the head of the Tables. On the head of the columns is marked the name of the cloth ; each page is divided into two parts, and each part into five columns: the first column of each part contains the hundreds of the reed upon the inches marked on the head of the column; the second and third, the ounces and drams per hank of the warp; the fourth, the oun- ces and drams per hank of the weft. On the head of the columns, H. reed, stands for the hundreds of the reed ; Per hk. warp, for per hank warp. Per hk. weft, for per hank weft. Oz. and Dr. stands for the ounces and drams per hank of the warp and weft. EXAMPLE. Suppose you are to make a 1600 shirting. Look on the head of the parts for shirting, then look in the first column under shirting, and you will find 16 hundred, and in the same line of the other col- umns, you will find the weight of the warp to be 2 ounces 5 drams, and the weft, 1 ounce 15 drams per hank, &c . By adding the weight of the warp and weft to- gether, for any two sets, and then halving them, gives you the weight of the warp and weft, for the half set betwixt the sets. Note . — As (cambing,) setting, (or sleying,) can- not be made to please every manufacturer of cloth, ASSISTANT. 359 and suit every purpose, they differ so much in set- ting ; the following Tables are constructed, so as to make a good fabric of cloth, each of its kind, and may be deviated from, according to the taSte of the customer, and demand in the course of the mar- ket. Note 2d. — When the yarn is very heavy, pounds and ounces are on the head of the columns, in place of ounces and drams. 360 LINEN WEAVER'S Shirting . Irish Linen . Reed on 37 inches. Reed on 40 inches • Per hk. Per hk. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. H. Warp. Weft. eed. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. Reed. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 8 9 6 7 12 8 11 0 v# 6 9 7 6 6 2 9 8 10 *7 / 6 10 6 0 5 0 10 7 0 6 0 11 5 0 4 2 li 5 12 5 0 12 4 2 3 7 1 2 4 13 4 2 13 3 8 2 15 13 4 2 3 8 14 3 0 2 8 14 3 8 3 0 15 2 10 2 3 15 3 2 2 10 16 2 5 1 15 1 6 2 12 2 5 17 2 1 1 1 1 17 2 7 2 1 18 1 13 1 8 18 2 2 1 13 Clear Lawn . Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 7 4 0 3 8 8 4 l 2 11 9 2 6 2 2 10 I 15 1 11 1 i 1 10 1 6 12 1 5 1 3 13 I 2 I 0 14 1 0 C 14 Silesia . Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 7 8 2 A— / 0 8 6 4 5 6 9 4 15 4 4 10 4 0 3 7 11 3 4 o v I 2 12 o 12 2 6 13 2 6 2 0 ✓ 1.4 2 i V2 ASSISTANT, 361 Check . Tweeting . Reed on 37 inches. Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. H. Warp. Weft. Reed Oz, Dr. Oz. Dr. Reed Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 6 13 14 11 4 6 13 14 13 14 7 9 6 7 12 7 10 3 10 3 8 7 6 6 2 8 7 13 7 18 9 6 0 5 0 9 6 2 6 2 10 5 0 4 2 10 5 0 5 0 11 4 2 3 7 11 4 2 4 2 12 3 8 2 15 12 3 7 3 7 13 3 0 2 8 33 2 15 2 15 14 2 0 2 3 14 2 8 2 8 15 2 5 1 15 15 2 3 2 3 16 2 1 1 11 16 1 15 1 15 Diaper . Britannia. Reed on 57 inches. Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk 9 Per hk © Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. H. Warp, Weft. Reed Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. Reed Oz. Dr, Oz, Dr, 5 15 11 14 6 5 0 0 0 0 6 11 0 10 0 6 13 7 13 4 7 8 2 7 5 7 9 14 9 2 | 8 6 4 5 10 8 8 2 7 0 t 9 10 5 0 4 7 9 6 4 5 6 4 0 3 9 10 4 15 4 4 Jj 11 3 4 3 0 1 1 4 0 3 fy 4 12 2 12 2 8 12 3 4 2 12 13 0 0 0 0 13 2 12 2 6 z z 862 LINEN WEAVER S Dor nick. Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 4 33 1 1 30 10 5 21 2 19 9 6 14 1 1 13 9 7 1 1 0 10 0 S 8 2 7 5 9 6 4 5 10 10 5 0 4 7 11 4 0 3 9 12 3 4 3 0 13 2 13 2 7 14 2 7 2 3 Holland. Reed on 40 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed O z. Dr. Oz. Dr. 6 0 0 0 0 7 0 0 0 0 8 0 0 0 0 9 0 0 0 0 10 8 0 6 8 11 6 10 5 6 12 5 8 4 8 13 4 1 1 3 12 14 4 0 3 4 3 5 S 9 2 14 36 s 2 2 8 17 2 12 2 4 UJ 00 2 7 o 0 19 o 3 1 1 2 20 2 0 1 JO Umbrella Cloih . Reed on 50 inches. Per hk. H. Warp. Per Iik. Weft. Reed Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr, 4 0 0 0 0 5 0 0 0 0 6 0 0 0 0 *7 i 8 2 7 0 8 6 4 5 0 9 4 15 4 4 10 4 0 3 7 1 l 3 4 2 12 12 2 12 2 6 13 2 6 2 0 14 2 0 1 12 V\ Bed Tick. "X Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 6 16 0 16 0 7 11 12 1 1 '* 12 8 9 0 9 0 9 7 2 7 2 10 5 12 5 12 11 4 12 4 12 12 4 0 4 0 13 3 6 3 6 14 0 0 0 : o 15 0 0 0 0 16 0 0 0 0 17 0 0 0 0 18 0 0 0 0 1 9 0 0 0 0 20 0 0 0 0 ASSISTANT, 363 Hushing or Bagging . Sacking . Reed on 57 inches. Reed an 37 inches. Per Sp. P er Sp. Per Sp. Per Sp. H. Warp. Weft. Warp. Weft. Reed Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. Lbs. Oz. 2 19 5 29 0 17 4 26 0 H 16 0 24 0 14 4 21 6 9 2 ** 5 13 ' 7 20 2 12 0 18 0 n 11 7 17 2 10 3 15 5 n 9 14 14 13 8 13 13 3 3 8 9 12 14 7 10 11 8 s'j- .7 9 11 5 6 12 10 2 3 T J 5 6 11 10 0 6 10 8 15 3# 5 15 8 15 5 5 8 0 3 4 5 5 8 0 4 12 7 2 4 4 10 7 4 4 5 6 7 4J- 4 6 6 9 3 14 5 14 4# 4 0 6 0 3 9 5 5 4# 3 10 5 7 3 4 4 1 4 4j 3 5 5 0 3 6 . 4 8 5 3 1 4 10 o 12 4 2 JN — — The Hushing or Bagging is all made of hemp yam for the warp, and tow for the weft. {Sacking is made tow warp and weft, and weaved 4 threads in the split. 364 LINEN WEAVER’S Cotton and Linen Shirting . Wincie . Reed on 37 inches. Reed on 57 inches. Nos. Per hk. Per hk. Nos. H. Warp. , Weft. Warp. Weft. Reed No. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. No. 6 0 0 0 5 7 9 7 0 0 0 4 0 12 8 36 9 6 3 1 15| 9 20 7 6 2 6 20 10 25 6 0 1 15 24 11 30 5 0 1 10 29 12 36 4 2 1 5 35 13 42 3 8 0 0 0 14 49 3 0 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 365 Strelitz Osnaburg . Reed on 37 inches. Per Sp. Per Sp. H. Warp. Weft. Heed Lb. Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. 4 4 5 2 8 10 H 3 14 11 7 l H 3 9 2 7 2 4J 3 4 4 6 8 H 3 0 0 6 0 5 2 12 4 5 8 ° 5 2 8 14 5 1 K 2 ° 5 o & 5 14 4 11 2 3 4 4 6 si °5 2 0 14 4 1 6 1 14 11 3 13 JJowlas . Reed on 57 inches. Per Sp. Per Sp. H. Warp. Weft. Reed Lt 1 . Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr. 5 4 5 2 4 5 2 5-h 3 15 14 1 5 14 5- 3 11 4 3 11 4 0 0 7 1 3 7 1 £74 x) 5 3 3 5 3 3 5 6 3 0 0 3 0 0 6 -- kj 5 2 12 15 2 12 15 6 j 2 10 3 2 10 3 62. u j 2 far 1 2 2 7 2 6- 2 5 6 2 5 6 fa* ( 2 3 4 2 3 4 Dr. i 4 12 4 8 0 8 12 12 8 12 6 366 LINEN WEAVER’S Linen Blanks. Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. H. Warp. Weft. Reed Oz. Br. Oz. Dr. 6 0 0 0 0 7 8 2 8 2 8 6 4 6 4 9 4 J5 4 15 30 4 0 4 0 3 1 3 5 3 5 12 2 12 2 12 13 2 6 2 6 14 2 0 2 0 15 1 12 1 12 16 1 9 1 9 37 1 6 1 6 381 41 4 391 21 2 20 I 0 l 0 Striped Holland . Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. Warp. Weft. Oz. Dr. Oz. Dr. 10 o 9 o 7 5 7 1 5 0 5 1 4 7 4 0 3 9 3 3 3 0 2 8 2 8 1 14 2 2 1 12 1 13 1 10 19 15 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 ASSISTANT 36 7 Plaiding. Plain Woollen Cloth . Reed on 37 inches, Reed on 37 inches. Per hk. Per hk. Per h i iv « Per hk. H. W arp. Weft. Warp. Weft. Reed Lb. Os. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr, i 4 0 0 4 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 0 il 2 12 7 2 12 7 6 4 0 6 4 0 i| 2 0 10 2 0 10 4 9 0 4 9 0 If 1 9 0 1 9 0 3 8 4 3 8 4 lf ; 1 3 12 1 3 12 2 12 7 2 12 o 2 1 0 0 1 0 0 2 4 0 2 4 0 25 0 13 3 0 13 3 1 13 12 1 13 12 2f 0 11 1 0 il 1 1 9 0 1 9 0 2| 0 9 4 0 9 4 1 5 4 1 5 4 c> 4 ^ 5 0 8 2 0 8 2 ] 2 5 l 2 5 3 0 7 1 0 7 1 1 0 0 1 0 0 o 1 0 6 4 0 6 4 0 14 0 0 14 0 3 j 0 5 8 0 5 8 0 12 8 0 12 8 3f 0 4 15 0 4 15 . 0 11 1 0 11 1 Q 4 *>5 0 4 6 0 4 6 0 10 0 0 10 0 4 0 4 0 0 4 0 0 9 0 0 9 0 4J 0 3 10 0 3 10 0 8 2 0 8 2 4 f 0 3 4 0 3 4 0 7 7 0 7 7 4f 0 3 0 0 3 0 0 6 12 0 6 12 4| 0 2 12 0 2 12 0 6 4 0 6 4 5 0 2 9 0 2 9 0 5. 12 0 5 12 / 368 LINEN WEAVER’S Sheeting, Reed on 57 inches. Per Sp. Per Sp. H. War P- Weft. Reed Lb. Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. 4 4 5 1 11 8 3 14 11 9 15 3 9 2 9 8 4 f 3 7 4 8 11 4f 3 0 0 8 0 5 2 12 3 7 5 2 8 14 6 13 5? 2 5 14 6 5 5 1 2 4 0 p* 0 14 2 0 13 5 7 6 1 15 0 5 1 oj 1 12 12 4. 12 6| 1 11 0 4 8 6? w 5 1 9 6 4 3 6i 1 7 14 3 15 7 1 6 9 3 12 hr 1 l 5 1 5 7 3 8 hr 2 1 £ I 4 10 3 5 t>7 5 ( 5 1 O 12 3 3 £7 4 / 5 1 2 3 3 0 8 1 1 4 2 14 Canvass, Reed on 5 7 inches. Per Sp. Per Sp. Warp. Weft. Lb. Qz. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr. 8 4* 027 0 0 7 7 11 24 4 5 6 13 1 22 5 0 6 3 9 20 6 10 5 1110 18 12 0 5 4 7 17 4 8 4 13 6 15 15 10 4 8 7 1413 0 4 3 5 13 12 4 3 14 12 12 13 7 3 11 1 1 12 0 0 3 6 15 11 3 13 3 3 9 10 8 12 3 0 8 9 14 11 2 13 11 9 5 7 2 11 2 8 13 1 2 8 12 8 5 5 2 6 9 7 14 3 2 4 9 7 7 7 2 2 11 7 1 10 2 1 0 612 0 Dr. 5 9 5 5 0 15 1 2 1 10 14 11 0 11 12 3 14 13 1 7 1 ASSISTANT. / 369 Xole . — Shirting is distinguished into two kinds* viz. light and heavy set shirting; all the difference* it’ wanted light, is to put the yarn which should go into a 1 S00 reed into a 1200 reed; and, if wanted heavy, put the yarn which ought to go into a 1 200 reed into a 1300 reed. See Irish linen, which is only a species of shirting of heavy fabric, generally made in Ireland from which it takes its name. Clear lawn should be made of clean evenly yarn, or else it will not answer the end for which it is intended, as it is used for women’s head dresses, (though not so much as formerly,) and dresses, where any colour such as red, blue, green, yellow, &c. is wanted to show through; it is also made into strips, by interspersing at certain inter- vals, double or heavy yarn, and sometimes orna- mented by hand sewing, etc. Silesia is used for linings, soldiers’ and childrens’ shirts, and takes its name from a place on the Continent. Check when intended for shirting, is set as shirt- ing, and if for sale cloth, as the Table directs. Tweeling is weaved three in the split, and is used for sheets, and by country people for shirts. Diaper is cither weaved with a back or full har- ness, and generally a mail full is put into each split, except the yarn be heavy for the set, or the cloth is wanted of a slight fabric. Damask is made in the same way, but has more leaves of a fore eamb, and set a little thronger: if cotton is put in for weft, it requires to be soft, and one sixth part heavier than the warp. Diaper and Damask are used for table cloths, toweling, &e, 5A 11 370 LINEN WEAVER'S Britannia is something heavier than Silesia, and is used for the same purpose; and also for sheets and trowsers in the West India settlements. Dornick is weaved 2, 5, and sometimes 4 threads in the split, but most commonly 5 threads; and is used for kitchen towels, brats, bibs, &c. In the weaving of Dornick, respect must be paid to the figure, as some figures require to be heavier set than others, and must be set accordingly ; a figure that has a great portion of plain, will not require to be so heavy set as that which has little plain, &c. Umbrella cloth is dyed green, blue, &c. prepared with wax, and made into umbrellas, window blinds, hat covers, &c. but is now much disused, on ac- count of cotton and silk being used for that pur- pose. Holland is a species of stout shilling, the manu- facture of which came from Holland, from which it takes its name; and appears to have been for- merly much used in Scotland, by the ladies of quality, for dresses, as will appear from many of the old Scottish ballads and love songs, as the swains generally, in singing the praises of their sweethearts, represented them to be dressed in the “ Holland fine” Stripped Holland is a lighter fabric, and is made something in the same way as clear lawn. Bed tick is weaved 4 in the split: the white and blue must be dressed separately, (see page 139,) to keep it from soiling ; and is used for bolsters and pillows, beds for holding chafi, feathers, &c. Hushing takes its name from the Continent, and is used for packsheets, and sand bags, for batteries in time of war, &e. ASSISTANT. 311 Sacking is weaved 4 in the split, and is used for stout packsheets, sacks, See. Plaiding is weaved 5, but more generally 4 threads in the split ; it is used, and also plain woollen cloth, for clothes, salt bags, <&c. Blank- ets are set a little heavier than plaiding. Wincie is used for gowns, petticoats, &c. and has a much better appearance, if the warp is slightly dyed. Osnaburg takes its name from a place on the Continent, and is used for wrappers, linings, &c. Dowlas is often made of bleached yarn, and is used for pocketing, linings, soldiers’ gaiters, trow- sers, &c. Plain Sheeting is used for packing fine goods, sheets, trowsers, &c. Linen Blunks are used for light shirting. Canvass is used for sail cloth, except that of fine numbers, which is applied to the same purpose as Dowlas. The warp is made double, and the weft single, and is made either of hemp, flax, or tow. The various kinds are distinguished by numbers, from number 1 to numbers, &c. two or more pieces of the same length, but of different weights, are classed into different numbers, as will be seen from the following Table, upon the different lengths and weights of canvass. The manufacture of Canvass or (Duck,) Dowlas, Osnaburgh, Flush- ing, and Sheeting, are chiefly confined to the towns of Aberdeen, Brechin, Montrose, Arbroath, Forfar, Kirriemuir, Dundee, Kirkcaldy, and their adjacent villages. Catgut is set the same as clear lawn, but in the reeding, split about is only filled, and is generally used for cap linings, &c. &c. / 372 linen weaver’s . 'Explanation of the Forty-Third Table . The fallowing Table shews what should be th{ weight of each number of canvass, from number l to number 8, at any length from 38 to 45 yards Each page is divided into 5 parts, and each pari except the first into 2 columns : the first c6lumr contains the length of the piece, the other columns contain the pounds and ounces each number should weigh at the length marked in the first column : the numbers are marked on the head of the columns. On the head of the columns, Lb, stands for pounds, Oz. for ounces. Suppose a piece of canvass, No. 3, 40 yards in length, what should be the weight of the piece, that it may pass at the Stamp-office? — Look in the first column and you will find 40 yards, then look in the same line of the other columns under No. J, in the line of Lbs. and you will find 40, which is the number of pounds 40 yards of canvass No. 5, should weigh. Note . — In the manufacture of canvass, the dif- ferent kinds are distinguished by numbers, from number 1 (which is the stoutest,) to number S, after which it goes under another name: each number must be the weight specified, else it is counted different. ASSISTANT. 373 Lenetli. TABLE OF No. 1. No. CANVASS. 9 o. No. 4 . Yds. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. 38 44 0 41 0 38 0 35 0 38 { 44 5 41 5 33 4 3 5 4 ssx 44 10 41 9 38 8 35 8 44 14 41 13 38 1 2 85 12 39 45 3 42 1 39 0 35 15 89j 45 8 42 6 39 4 36 3 394 45 12 ,42 10 89 8 36 7 39 J 46 1 42 3 5 39 12 36 10 40 46 4 4 3 3 1$ 0 0 36 14 46 10 43 ( 40 4 .37 1 4C-4 46 15 43 32 40 8 37 5 47 S 4 4 0 40 12 37 9 4 1 47 8 44 4 41 0 37 13 4 li ■ 1 4 47 13 44 9 41 4 38 0 4 1 J- 3 • 1 48 1 44 3 3 41 8 38 4 . _ <■» 4 1- n 1 4 48 6 45 1 14 12 , 38 8 42 48 11 45 6 42 0 38 1 1 42-1. 1 4 4 8 15 45 10 42 4 39 15 40I 49 4 45 14 42 8 39 S 4 2| 4 49 9 4 6 0 42 12 39 n t 39 10 374 - LINEN WEAVER’S TABLE OF CANVASS. Length. , No. 5. No. 6. No. 7. No. 8. Yds. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. Lb. Oz. 38 52 0 29 0 24 0 21 0 '38$ 52 4 29 3 24 3 21 5 S8i 52 7 29 7 24 6 21 7 ssf 32 11 29 10 24 8 21 9 S9 32 14 29 13 24 1 1 21 11 3. 36 0 32 11 27 0 23 10 43 ' 36 4 32 14 .27 3 23 12 ASSISTANT. 875 Of the Sliding Rule . Of the invention of the sliding rule we have no information, but it is very probable that it is a very early invention, ancl, like every other instrument of art, has progressively received improvements, until it has arrived at that state of perfection in which it now is. The only reasonable conclusion I can draw of the antiquity of its invention, is from the men- tion made in sacred history, of the degrees of time being measured upon the sun dial of king Ahaz ; and of the erection of a sun dial at Rome, for the measuring of time, by Papinas Cursor, in the year 308 , B. C. ; from which I conclude, that when at these early periods the division of time was ascer- tained and divided into degrees and parts, they would have their calculations of quantity and mea- sure divided into degrees and parts also, upon in- struments of this kind, though in a very unimprov-* ed state; and upon which, improvements have been made from time to time, up to the present date. Be this as it may, it is of little consequence; but I can freely say, it is an instrument of great use in calculations, to those who have not the knowledge of arithmetic, and also those who may not be in a situation, where they can get arith- metic easily applied to the calculations necessary at the time. However upon the sliding rule, 376 LINEN WEAVER’S fractions have for the most part to be guessed at for which reason, I am not very partial to it, bu! give it for the convenience of those who in a} choose to use it. It is only of late years that the sliding rule has been applied to the art of weaving, From any information I can collect, the only person in Scotland, who properly studied the application of the sliding rule to weaving, was Mr. Robert Vallance, a man said to be of great natural parts, and deacon of the weaver incorporation of the city of Perth, who died in the year 1781. However, it is going greatly into disuse, on account of the general knowledge of arithmetic, by which the measurement and value of fractions is easily ascer- tained. Notwithstanding of this, I have given a full description of it, with rules and examples for the application of it to business, as w’ell as in weaving and manufacturing. ■^.-v'vw^v v\v\ \ Description of the Sliding Rule. This instrument is generally two feet in length when open, and one foot when shut, and connect- ed together by a folding joint. On the sliding side of the rule are three lines of numbers, the uppermost line is called the stock, which is numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 , 7, 8, 9, the next half of the stock is numbered .1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 43, 9, 10, and the slide is numbered 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 ; the girt line is numbered 4, 5, 6, ASSISTANT. S7? 7, 8, 9, 1 0, 20, 30 , 4 0 ; the stock is marked A and D; the slide is marked B and C; C, signifying the upper divisions of the slide ; and B, the under divi- sions; the girt line is marked D. The girt line is generally used in easting up solids; on this line, at the divisions, 17. 15, and 18. 95, are marked W. G. and A. G. the wine and ale guage points, used in the guaging of wine and ale. The numbers on the stock and slide may be in- creased and decreased at pleasure : for example, 1 at the beginning "may be called 10, 100, or 1000, then the 2 is 20, 200, or 2000 ; when 1 at the be- ginning is reckoned 1, then 1 in the middle will stand for 10, and 10 at the end for 100, &c. , And as the figures are altered, so must the divi- sions upon the lines be altered in their value, ac- cording to the number of parts into which they are divided. It will be seen that from 1 to 2 is divided into ten parts, and each 10th into 5 parts, and from 2 to three is divided into 10 parts, and so on to 1 at the middle of the rule: the other half is divid- ed after the same manner as the first. The girt line is divided from 4 to 5, into 10 equal parts, and from 5 to 10 into 10 equal parts, and from 10 to 20 into 10 equal parts, and each 10th into 4 parts, and so on to the end at 40, which is exact with 10 at the end of the slide and stock,, i b . U 378 LINEN WEAVER’S APPLICATION - OP TO BUSINESS, AND THE ART OF WEAVING. To Multiply by the Sliding Rule, Rule . — Set 1 on the slide to the multiplicand oi the stock, then above the multiplier on the slide you will find the product on the stock. , . ■ EXAMPLES. Multiply 7 by 4. — Set 1 on the slide to 7 on th< stock, and above 4 on the slide, you will find 2* on the stock. Multiply 15 by 8.— “Set 1 on the slide to 15 oi the stock, and above 8 on the slide, you will fim X20 on the stock. To Divide by the Sliding Rule, Rule , — Set the divisor on the slide to the divi dend on the stock, and above 1 on the slide, yoi will find the quotient on the stock. EXAMPLES. Divide 72 by 8,'-— Sefc-8 on the slide to 72 on th ASSISTANT. 379 stock, and above 1 on the slide, you will find 9 on the stock. Divide 108 by 9. — Set 9 on the slide to 108 on the stock, and above 1 on the slide, you will find 12 on the stock. Proportion by the Sliding Rule . Rule.— Set the first term on the slide to the second term on the stock, and above the third term on the slide, you will find the answer on the stock. EXAMPLES. What number will bear the same proportion to 8 that 6 does to 4? — Set 4 on the slide to 6 on the stock, and against 8 on the slide, you will find 12 on the stock. If 16 yarns cloth cost 36 shillings, what will 2 yards cost at that rate?-— Set 16 on the slide to 56 on the stock, and above 2 on the slide, you will find 4 j or 4 s. 6d. on the stock. What will the weaving of 120 ells of cambric come to, at 9 d. per ell?-— Set 12 on the slide, the number of pence in one shilling, to 9 on the stock, and above 120 on the slide, you will find 90 shil- I lings on the stock. O To Square any Number by the Sliding Rule . Rule.— Set 1 on the slide to the given number on the stock, and above the given number on the 1 slide, you will have the sauare of the number on' I ' . t X the stock. EXAMPLES. What is the square of number 8? — Set 1 on the i 580 LINEN WEAVER’S slide to 8 on the stock, and above 8 on the slide, you have 64 on the stock. What is the square of number 12? — Set 1 on the slide to 12 on the stock, and above 12 on the slide, you have 144 on the stock. V'V. To Extract the Square Hoot by the Sliding Bide. Buie. — Set 1 or 10 on the slide to 1 or 10 on the girt line, and under the number of which the root is required on the slide, you have the root on the girt line. EXAMPLES. What is the square root of 16? — Set 1 on the slide to 10 on the girt line, and under 16 on the slide, you will find 4 on the girt line, which is the root. Required the square root of 144? — Set 1 on the slide to 10 on the girt line, and under 14 4 on the slide, you will find 12, which is the root. 1st. To find how much Yarn is necessary for the warp of any Web . Buie — Set the number of hundreds on the slide to 14 or 70 on the stock, and opposite the number of ells on the stock, you will find the number of hanks oh the slide. EXAMPLES. How much yarn will it take to be the warp of a web 84 ells long, having 50 porters warp? Set 50 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and opposite 84 ells on the stock ; you will find 60 hanks on the slide. ASSISTANT. 381 How Din ch yarn will it take to be the warp of a web TO ells long, having 900 warp ? Set 9 on the slide to 14 on the stock, and opposite to 70 ells on the stock, you will find 4 5 hanks on the slide. How much yarn will it take to be the warp of a web 140 ells long, having 56 porters warp ? Set the number of porters warp on the slide to 70 on the stock, and under the number of ells on the stock, you will find the number of hanks on the slide. How much French yarn will it take to be the warp of a web 120 ells long, having 5G porters warp? Set the porters on the slide to 84, (the porters that 1 carr gives,) and under the number of ells on the stock, you will find the number oi earns on the slide. — —See the Table of French yarn, page 10. Note ,-— If the question is stated in porters, make one of the factors or terms 70, because 1 hank gives 70 porters warp to 1 ell; and if stated by the hundreds, make one of the terms 14, because 1 hank gives 1400 warp to one ell, equal to 70 porters. 2 d. To find, how many Ells any quantity of Yarn will produce , having any quantity of Wary. Buie. — Set the number of hundreds on the slide to 14 on the stock, or the quantity of warp on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above the number of hanks on the slide, you will find the number of elis on the stock. EXAMPLES. If a web has 55 porters warp, how many ells will 14 spy n dies of yarn produce? Set 55 on the 382 LINEN WEAVER’S slide to 70 on the stock, and above 60 hanks on the slide, you will find 76 ells on the stock. If a web has 900 splits warp, how many ells will 10 spyndles of yarn produce ? Set 9 on the slide to 14 on the stock, and above 40 on the slide, you will find 62 ells on the stock. * If a web has 90 porters warp, how many ells will 45 spyndles of yarn produce? Set 90 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above 180 banks on the slide, you will find 144 ells on the stock. If a web has 56 porters warp, how many ells will 20 penee French yarn produce? Set 56 on the slide to 84, (the porters 1 carr gives,) and above 80 carrs on the slide, you will find 120 ells on the stock, vx\\ %v od- To Jtnd how many Hundreds , Porters , or Splits , any quantity of Yarn will give to any number of Elis . Rule . — Set the number of hanks on the slide to the number of ells on the stock, and under 14 on the stock, you will find the number of hundreds on the slide, or under 70 on the stock, you will find the number of porters on the slide. EXAMPLES. How many hundreds or porters will 10 spyndles of yarn give to 80 ells? Set 40 (the hanks in 10 spyndles,) on the slide to 80 on the stock, and tinder 14 on the stock, you will find 700 on the slide, or under 70 on the stock, you will find 55 porters on the slide. IIow much warp will 1 6 spyndles of yarn give to 140 ells? Set 64 on the slide to 140 on the stock, ASSISTANT. 383 and under 70 on the stock, you will find 52 porters on the slide. How many hundreds will 4 spyndles of yarn give to 14 ells? Set 16 on the slide to 14 on the stock, and under 14 on the stock, you will find 1600 on the slide. How much warp will 45 spyndles 18 hiers pro- duce, if the length of the web be 90 ells? Set 65 (the hanks) on the slide to 90 on the stock, and under 70 on the stock, you will find 49 porters on the slide. A ih. To find , when the Warp and Ells of a Wed is known , how much Yarn is in the Web . Rule.—* Set the hundreds in the breadth of the web on the slide to 14 on the stock, or the number of warp (on the slide) to 70 on the stock, and un- der the number of ells on the stock, you will find the number of hanks on the slide. EXAMPLES. How much yarn is there in 70 ells of a web, having 800 splits warp? Set 8 on the slide to 14 on the stock, and under 70 ells on the stock, you will find 40 hanks on the slide. How much yarn is there in 50 ells of a web, having 42 porters warp ? Set 42 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and under 50 ells on the stock, you will find 50 hanks on the slide. Note . — -If there is no allowance for waste, set your warp upon the slide to 72 on the stock, in place of 70. How much yarn is there in 50 ells of a web* having 42 porters warp, and no allowance for 384 LINEN WEAVER’S waste? Set 42 on the slide to 72 on the stock, and under 50 ells on the stock, you will find 20 hanks on the slide. How much yarn is there in a web 120 ells long, having 36 porters warp? Set 36 on the slide to 72 on the stock, and under 120 ells bn the stock, you will find 60 hanks on the slide. » 5th. To find how much Warp any number of liters and Cuts will give to one TIL Rule . — Set 6, the number of biers, or 12 the number of cuts in a hank, on the slide, to 70 on the stock, (if allowance be made for waste, and 72 if no allowance,) and above the number of biers or cuts on the slide, you will find the warp they will produce to one eli on the stock. EXAMPLES. How much warp will 6 cuts give to one ell ? Set 12 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above 6 cuts on the slide, you will fine! 35 porters warp on the stock. How much warp will 4 hiers 1 cut give to one ell, and no allowance for waste? Set 12, the cuts in a hank, (on the slide,) to 72 on the stock, and above 9 cuts on the slide, you will find 54 porters warp on the stock. How much warp will 15 hiers give to one ell ? Set 6 on the slide to 70 on the. stock, and above 15 hiers on the slide, you will find 175 porters warp on the stock. ASSISTANT. 385 If a hank divided into 10 parts of a 100 threads each, give 80 porters warp to one ell, how much will 4 of these parts give to one ell? Set 10 on the slide to 80 on the stock, and above 4 parts on the slide you will find 52 porters warp on the stock. 6 Ik. To find how many Hiers or Cuts will give any quantity of Wary to one Ell. Ride. — Set 6 or 12 on the slide to 70 on the stock, (and if no allowance be made for waste to 7 2,) and under the quantity of warp on the stock, you will find the number of hiers or cuts on the slide. EXAMPLES. How many hiers of yarn will be necessary to give 58 porters warp to one ell ? Set 6 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and under 58 porters on the stock, you will find 5 hiers on the slide. How many cuts of yarn will be required to give 64 porters warp to one ell? Set 12 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and under 64 porters warp on the stock, you will find 11 cuts on the slide. How many cuts will it take to give 35 porters warp to one ell, and to 20 ells? Set 12 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and under 55 porters on the stock, you will find 6 cuts on the slide ; then set 1 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 6 cuts on the slide, you will find 120, the ells on the stock. How many cuts will it take to' give 87 porters warn to one elk and to 60 ells ? Set 1 2 on the S86 LINEN WEAVERS slide to 70 on the stock, and under 87 porters on the stock, you will find 15 cuts on the slide; then set l on the slide to 60 on the stock, and above 1 5 cuts on the slide, you will find 900 cuts on the slide, equal to 18j spyndles. 7 th. To find how many Ells any quantity of Yarn will produce , if there is any number of liters and Cuts allowed to each Ell. Rule. — Set the number of hiers or cuts allowed to each ell on the slide, to 6 or 12 on the stock, and opposite to the number of banks on the slide, you will find the ells on the stock. EXAMPLES. How many ells of a web will 18 spyndles of yarn produce, if 3 hiers be allowed to each ell ? Set 3 on the slide to 6 on the stock, and above 72 hanks on the slide, you will find 144 ells on the stock. How many ells of a web will 1 5 spyndles of yarn produce, if 4 hiers be allowed to each ell ? Set 4 on the slide to 6 on the stock, and above 60 hanks on the slide, you will find 90 ells on the stock. How many ells of a web will 15 spyndles of yarn produce, if 9 cuts be allowed to each ell ? Set 9 on the slide to 12 on the stock, and above 60 hanks on the slide, you will find 80 ells on the stock. How many ells of a web will 20 spyndles of yarn produce, if 5 cuts be allowed to each ell ? Set 5 tm the slide to 12 on the stock, and above 80 hanks on the slide, you will find 3 92 ells on the stock. ASSISTANT. 387 «v%. 8 ill. To find how much Warp a Hank of any length will give to one JS.IL Rule.— Set the quarters or inches (upon the round of the reel) on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above the quarters or inches on the slide, you will find how much warp a hank of the given length will produce, on the stock. EXAMPLES. If a hank of a 10 quarter reel give 70 porters warp to one ell, how many porters will a hank of an eleven quarter reel give? Set 10 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above 1 1 quarters on the slide, you will find 77 porters on the stock. How many porters warp will a hank 80 inches in length give, if a hank 90 inches on the round of the reel give 70 porters? Set 90 on the slide to 70 on the stock, and above 80 inches on the slide, you will find 62 porters warp on the stock. If a hank of an 11 quarter reel give 77 porters warp to one ell, how many porters will a hank of a 12 quarter reel give ? Set 1 1 on the slide to 77 on the stock, and above 12 on the slide, you will find 84 on the stock. If a hank 120 inches on the round of the reel produce 84 porters warp to one ell, how many porters will a hank 90 inches on the round pro- duce? Set 120 on the slide to 84 on the stock, and above 90 inches on the slide, you will find 70 porters on the stock. 388 LINEN WEAVER’S 9 th. To find what quantity of Yarn , reeled upon any length, of a reel , it will require to give any number of Warp to any number of Ells. Rule.— Set the number of warp upon the slide to the number of warp (that a hank of the given length will produce) upon the stock, and under the number of ells on the stock, you will find the number of hanks on the slide. EXAMPLES. If a web is to have 55 porters warp, how many hanks of an 11 quarter reel will be required to produce 70 ells? Set 55 on the slide to 77 on the stock, and under 70 ells on the stock, you will find 50 hanks on the slide. If a web is to have 52 porters warp, how many hanks of an 50 inch reel will be required to pro- duce 43 ells? Set 52 on the slide to 6 2 on the stock, and under 43 ells on the stock, you will find 36 hanks on the slide. If a web has 51 porters w 7 arp, how many hanks of an 80 inch reel will be required to give 100 ells? Set 51 on the slide to 62 on the stock, and under 100 ells on the stock, vou will find 50 hanks on the slide. ^ 10th. To find how much Yarn is in a Pound , when a Spyndie or Hank is any certain weight. Rule.~§&i the weight of the spyndie on the slide to 24 on the stock, or set the weight of the hank on the slide to 6 on the stock, and above 1 6 ASSISTANT. 389 on the slide, you will find the number of filers that are in a pound weight, on the stock. EXAMPLES. If a spyndle of yarn weigh 12 ounces, how many biers are there in the pound weight? Set 12 on the slide to 24 on the stock, and above 16 on the slide, you will find 32 hiers on the stock. If a spyndle of yarn weigh 4 ounces, how many hiers are there m the pound weight? Set 4 on the slide to 24 on the stock, and above 16' on the slide, you will find 96 hiers on the stock. If a hank of yarn weigh 4 ounces, how many hiers are there in the pound weight? Set 4 on the slide to 6 on the stock, and above 16 ounces on the slide, you will find 24 hiers on the stock. If a hank of yarn weigh 11 drams, how many hiers are there in a pound weight? Set 11 on the slide to 6 on the stock, and above 16 on the slide, you will find 138 hiers on the stock. 1 1 th. To find hoiu much the weight of a Spyndle or Hank is y when there are any number of Hiers in a Pound weight . Rule.— Set the hiers in the pound upon the slide, to 16 on the stock, and opposite to the number of hiers on the slide, you will find the weight of the spyndle or hank on the stock. EXAMPLES. If 32 hiers of yarn be in the pound, what is the weight of the spyndle ? Set 32 on the slide to 1 6 390 LINEN WEAVER’S on the stock, and above 24 biers on the slide, you will find 12 ounces, the weight of the spyndle, on the stock. If 12 hicrs of yarn be in the pound, what is the weight of the hank, or 6 hiers? Set 12 on the slide to 16 on the stock, and above 6 hiers on the slide, you will find 8 ounces on the stock, which is the weight of the hank. If 64 hiers of yarn be in the pound, what is the weight of the spyndle? Set 64 on the slide to 16 on the stock, and above 24 hiers on the slide, you will find 6 ounces on the stock, which is the weight of the hank. — What is the weight, the same num- ber of hiers being in the pound? Set 64 on the slide to 16 on the stock, and above 6 hiers on the slide, you will find )•§ ounces on the stock, which is the weight of the hank. 12 th. To find when Yarn of any certain weight will work in one Reed , what weight will work in any other Reed ; and, also , what Reed any other weight of Yarn will require , to make it in the same proportion of thickness . Rule . — Set the known weight of yarn on the slide to the reed (that you wish to know the weight of yarn suitable for) on the girt line, and opposite the known reed on the girt line, you will find the weight of yarn necessary on the slide: or stt the weight of yarn (you wish to know the reed for) on the slide to the known reed on the girt line, and opposite the known weight Gn the slide, you will find the reed on the girt line. ASSISTANT. 39 i EXAMPLES. If yarn that weighs 5 ounces per hank, work in a 1400 reed, what weight will work in a 900 reed? Set 3 on the slide to 9 on the girt line, and above 14 hundred on the girt line, you will find 7J ounces on the slide. If yarn weigh 3 ounces per hank, what reed will it take to make it in the same proportion to 2 ounces in a 1600 reed? Set S on the slide to 16 on the girt line, and under 2 ounces on the slide, you will find 15 hundred on the girt line. If yarn 7 ounces per hank be woven in a 10 hundred reed, what weight per hank must yarn he for a 1 2 hundred reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric? Set 7 on the slide to 12 on the girt line, and above 10 on the girt line, you will fmd^4j ounces on the slide; or turn (the slide) and set 7 on the slide to 10 on the girt line, and above 12 on the girt line, you will find 4 % ounces on the slide. If yarn 7j ounces per hank be woven in a 900 reed, what weight of yarn must be woven in a 1400 reed, to make cloth of a similar fabric? Set 7j on the slide to 14 on the girt line, and above 9 on the girt line, you will find 3 ounces on the slide. Note . — -If you turn the right end of the slide to the left end of the rule, and set the known weight on the slide to the known reed on the girt line, you will find opposite every reed the weight of yarn suitable for that reed, and opposite every weight of yam, you will find the reed suitable for that weight. 392 LINEN WEAVER’S loth. To find how much War^p any number of Bouts will give run with any number of Runners ; arid how many Bouts it will take to give any number of Warp . Rule. — Set the number of runners on the slide to 20 on the stock, and opposite to the number of bouts on the stock, you will find the number of warp on the slide, or opposite the number of warp on the slide, you will find the number of bouts ou. the stock. EXAMPLES. How much warp will 16 bouts produce, run with 50 runners? Set 50 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 16 bouts on the stock, you will find 40 porters warp on the slide. How much warp will 10 bouts produce, run with 90 runners? Set 90 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 10 bouts on the stock, you will find 45 porters warp on the slide. How many bouts run with 70 runners, will it take to produce 4 9 porters warp? Set 70 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 49 on the slide, you will find 14 bouts on the stock. How many bouts run with 120 runners, will it take to produce 90 porters warp? Set 120 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 90 on the slide, you will find 1 5 bouts on the stock. 1 4/72. To find (when the Warp and Runners are given ) hoiv many Bouts are in the Web. Rule.— Set the number of runners on the slide to 20 on the stock, and opposite to the number of ASSISTANT. 893 warp on the slide, you will find the number of bouts on the stock. EXAMPLES. How many bouts run with 56 runners are there in a web having 42 porters warp? Set 56 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 42 on the slide, you will find 1 5 bouts on the stock. How many bouts run with 95 runners are there in a web having 58 porters warp? Set 95 on the slide to 20 on the stock, and above 38 on the slide, you will find 8 bouts on the stock. 15^. To find how much of an evencr (raiih or ravel) any number of Bouts will fill , run with any number of Pinfuls . Rule , — Set the number of pins (that one bout will fill) on the slide to 1 on the stock, and oppo- site to any number of bouts on the stock, you will find the number of pins that will be filled on the slide. EXAMPLES. If 1 bout fill 8 pins, how many pins will 10 bouts fill? Set 8 on the slide to 1 on the stock, and under 10 bouts on the stock, you will find 80 pins on the slide. If 1 bout fill 14 pins, how 7 many pins will 16 j- bouts fill ? Set 14 on the slide to 1 on the stock, and under 1 6 bouts on the stock, you will find 224 pins on the slide. 3 D 11 3 94 * LINEN WEAVER’S 3 6th. To find when an evener is marked on any breadth , what it is upon any other breadth . Rule. — Set the number of the evener on the slide to the given breadth on the stock, and oppo- site to any other breadth on the stock, you will find the number of pins on the slide. EXAMPLES. If an evener is 7 score upon 45 inches, what is it upon 40 inches? Set 7 on the slide to 45 on the stock, and under 40 inches on the stock, you will find 6 scores and 2 pins upon the slide. If an evener is 20 hundred on 50 inches, what is it on 45 inches? Set 20 on the slide to 50 on he stock, and under 45 inches on the stock, you will find 18 hundred on the slide. If an evener is 16 hundred upon ell, what is it upon 3 quarters? Set 16 on the slide to 4 on the stock, and under 3 quarters on the stock, you will find 12 hundred on the slide. If an evener is 1 4 hundred upon ell, what is it upon 11 nails? Set 14 on the slide to 16 on the stock, and under 1 1 nails on the stock, you will find 9 hundred and 6 pins on the slide. Note.-— 2 0 pins of an evener is called a score, and 10 pins is counted a hundred. To find tvkat evener will be required to beam & Web any breadth , having any number of Pins. Rule.— Set the breadth (the web is intended to be on the beam) on the slide to 37 (the inches in ASSISTANT. one ell on the stock, and above the number of pinfuls in the web on the slide, you will find the evener required on the stock. EXAMPLES. Suppose a web having 155 pinfuls to be beamed 36 inches broad, what evener will be necessary for the beaming of the web? Set 56 on the slide to 57 on the stock, and above 155 on the slide, you will find 1700 on the stock. Suppose a web having 205 pinfuls to be beamed 40 inches broad, what evener will be necessary for the beaming of the web ? Set 40 on the slide to 57 on the stock, and above 205 on the slide, you will find 1900 on the stock. If a web has 250 pinfuls and is to be beamed 60 inches broad, what evener will be necessary for the beaming of the web? Set 60 on the slide to 57 on the stock, and above 250 on the slide, you will find 1500 and 4 pins upon the stock. 18 th, To find when a Reed is counted upon any breadth , what it is upon any other breadth . Rule. — Set the given number of the reed on the slide to the given breadth on the stock, and oppo- site to any other breadth on the stock, you will find the number of splits on the slide. < EXAMPLES. If a reed is 1600 on 50 inches, what is it upon 45 inches? Set 16 on the slide to 50 on the 398 LINEN WEAVER’S stock, and under 45 inches on the stock, you will find 14 hundred and 2 porters on the slides If a reed is 1400 on 40 inches, what is it upon ell? Set 14 on the slide to 40 on the stock, and under 37 inches on the stock, you will find 13 hundreds on the slide. If a reed is 800 upon ell, what is it upon 14 nails? Set 8 on the slide to 16 on the stock, and under 14 nails on the stock, you will find 7 hun- dreds on the slide. If a reed is 64 porters on ell, what is it upon 3 quarters? Set 64 on the slide to 4 on the stock, and under 3 quarters on the stock, you will find 48 porters on the slide. / 1 9 th. To find how much of a Reed any number of Warp iv'dl fill , having any number of threads in the Split. Rule. — Set the number of threads (intended to be in the split) on the slide to 2 on the stock, and opposite to the number of warp on the slide, you wiil find the number of hundreds, or porters, (that will be occupied) on the stock. EXAMPLES. If a web have 1500 porters warp, how many hundreds of a reed will it fill, with three threads in each split ? Set 3 on the slide to 2 on the stock, and above 15 hundred on the slide, you will find 10 hundred on the stock. If a web have 51 porters warp, how many por- ters will it fill, if 3 threads be put in each split ? ASSISTANT. 397 Set 5 on the slide to 2 on the stock, and above 51 porters on the slide, you will find 34 porters on the stock. 20th. To find how much warp it will take to fill any number' of Hundreds or Porters , with any number of threads in the Split, Ride . — Set the number of threads (to be in the split on the slide) to 2 on the stock, and opposite to the number of hundreds or porters on the stock, you will find the number of warp that will fill them on the slide. EXAMPLES. How much warp will it take to fill 600 of a reed with three threads in each split? Set 3 on the slide to 2 on the stock, and opposite to 600 on the stock, you will find 900 on the slide. How much warp will it take to fill 32 porters of a reed with 3 threads in each split ? Set 3 on the slide to 2 on the stock, and opposite to 32 porters on the stock, you will find 48 porters warp on the slide. 21 si. To find how to set Carnbs or Heddles to Reeds, Rule. — Set the hundreds, half hundreds, or por- ters of difference (betwixt the camb and reed,) on the slide to the hundreds, half hundreds, or porters of the reed on the stock, and opposite to t on the slide, you will find the number of drafts to be drawn betwixt the settings on the stock. EXAMPLES. If a camb be a 1000 and the reed an 800 on 398 LINEN weaver’s the same breadth, how many drafts must be drawn betwixt setting? Set 2 (the hundreds of differ- ence betwixt the heddles and reed,) on the slide to 8 on the stock, and above 1 on the slide, you will find 4, the drafts to be drawn betwixt settings, on the stock ; which shews, that you fill 4 drafts over the heddles, and set the fifth alternatelv. If a camb be 48 porters and a reed 42 porters on the same breadth, how many drafts must be drawn betwixt settings? Set 6 (the porters of difference betwixt the camb and reed,) to 42 on the stock, and above 1 on the slide* you will find 7 drafts on the stock ; which shews, that 7 drafts must be filled, and the 8th set alternately. If a camb be a 12 hundred and the reed a \0,\ hundred upon the same breadth, how many drafts must be drawn betwixt settings ? Set 5 (the half hundreds of difference betwixt the camb and reed,) on the slide to lof on the stock, and above 1 on the slide, you will find 7 on the stock; which shews, that 7 drafts must be filled, and the 8th set alternately. Note 1st. If there is not a divisor on the stock opposite 1 on the slide, it will be understood that there is odd drafts ; but how many and the times they should be drawn betwixt settings, cannot be found by the sliding rule, and are not so easily guessed at, as a common fraction. Note 2d. I have given the foregoing rules and examples in the way which I thought most simple, and easy to be understood ; but I shall give an ex- ample by she alphabetical letter, as the sliding rule ASSISTANT. 399 is marked this way, and those who think it best may use it. — 'See rule 6th, page 385, shewing how to find how many hiers or cuts will give any quan- tity of warp to one ell. Rule . — Set 6 or 12 on B to 70 on A, and under the number of warp on A, you will find the nimm ber of hiers or cuts on B. EXAMPLE. How many hiers of yarn will be necessary to give 58 porters warp to one eli? Set 6 on B to 70 on A, and under 5S porters on A, you will find 5 hiers on B, &c. Of the Sizing, Glueing, Preparation, and Manila facture of Woollen Yarn . Woollen yarn before it is put into loom, requires a preparation (similar to the starching and dressing of cotton and linen yarn, called sizing or glueing;} for the purpose of firming the thread, and laying the fibres of which the threads are composed. There are two ways of performing the process; the one is when the yarn is in the hank, and the other after the web is warped. I shall give both the ways, and the operative can take the one that he thinks best, or suits him at the time, and vary from them as the nature of the yarn requires. To size or glue in the hank; procure from a tan« yard the shavings or pairings of hides, (or if they cannot easily be got, take Joiners 5 common glue;) a sufficient quantity of either, (See the Table,) and boil either of them with a sufficiency of water* 400 LINEN WEAVER’S until part of the water is absorbed, and boiled into a consistency which you think sufficient for firming the yarn to be sized ; (but no rule can be made for the quantity of water, as some shavings may be of a stronger nature than others, likewise softer yarn will require the size stronger, and hard spun scoured yarn weaker, but err on the strong side; and have boiling water to make it up as required :) press the liquor out, and let it remain till little better than lukewarm, then put the hank softly made up, among the liquor, press it well down, so that it may be sufficiently wet in every part; then take it out, and wring it upon wringers, a little harder than could be done with the hands, (as wringing too hard will render glueing or sizing use- less,) after it is wrung, lay it upon the floor until it is thoroughly cold, then take and put it upon poles, shake it gently, and let it remain upon them until fully dry, in the open air (particular care ought to be taken, neither to dry it at stove nor fire heat, which is particularly injurious to woollen yarn, after it is sized, has a tendency to raise the size to the surface of the yarn in a sort of small scales, in which case it has no effect in laying the fibres of which the yarn is composed, nor in har- dening the yarn. To glue or size in the chain; the liquor is pre- pared in the same way as for sizing in the hank. The chain is taken out of the links and put in softly into a vessel sufficient to hold it with ease, the liquor being prepared and nearly cold, take as much as will wet the chain, of a con- sistency sufficiently strong or weak for the quality of the yarn, (See the Table,) and pour it upon the chain, pots it well until thoroughly wetted, ASSISTANT, 401 take it out upon a board, press out the superabun- dance of the liquor, and let it remain until quite cold : then take it out to the fields, and stretch the chain to its whole length upon stakes of a sufficient height from the ground, put in the rods, and take a coarse evener, put a gang or bout of the mill into each pin, take also one finer, and put a half gang or half bout of the mill in each pin, and one finer, and put 2 pinfuls in each pin, and another finer still, and put one pinful into each pin, pass the eveners and rods from end to end of the chain, and let it stand exposed until sufficiently dry, thpn link it up for beaming. Note , — Take notice that the day has not the ap- pearance of rain, as rain, fire, or stove heat, will cause glueing lose the effect, and if spoiled in the glueing or sizing at the first, can never be properly recovered again : it is impossible to over-dry wool- len' yarn with natural drought, &c. Explanation of the Forty-Fourth Table. The follovring Table shews the quantity of hide shavings and Joiners’ glue that will be required for the sizing or glueing of woollen yarn, from 1 to 10 pounds, and advancing by 10 pounds, from 10 to 100 pounds. The page is divided into 2 parts, the right hand part into three columns, and the left 3 t \’2 402 LINEN WEAVER’S into four ; the first column of the left hand part contains the pounds of yarn to be sized or glued ; the other three columns of each part contains the quantity of hide shavings or Joiners’ glue required for sizing or glueing the quantity of yam in the first column. On the head of the columns, Lbs. stands for pounds, Oz. for ounces, Dr. for drams. EXAMPLE. Suppose you are to size or glue a quantity of woollen yarn, or chain of a web, weighing 20 pounds. — Look in the first column of the left hand, and you will find 20 pounds, and in the same line of the other columns, under hide shav- ings and Joiners’ glue, you will find the quantity of hide shavings required to be 5 pounds, 1 1 ounces, 8 drams; and of Joiners’ glue 5 pounds, which is the quantity.required. Note .— If you do not find in one line the num- ber you want, add any two numbers together, that will make out the quantity required. i ASSISTANT, 403 Yarn. Hide Shavings. Joiners’ Glue. Lbs. Lbs. Oz. Dr. Lb. Oz. Dr. I O 4 6 0 4 0 2 0 8 12 0 8 o 3 0 13 2 0 12 0 4 1 0 8 1 0 0 5 1 4 14 1 4 0 6 1 12 4 1 8 0 7 2 0 10 I 12 0 8 2 5 0 o 44 0 0 9 2 9 6 2 4 0 10 2 13 12 2 8 0 20 5 11 8 5 0 0 SO 8 9 4 7 8 0 40 li 7 0 10 0 0 50 14 4 12 12 8 0 60 16 2 8 15 0 0 70 19 0 4 17 8 0 80 21 14 0 20 0 0 90 24 11 12 22 8 0 100 27 9 8 25 0 0 404 LINEN WEAVER’S OF HOUSEHOLD dfant# Customary drafting* AFTER having gone through all the Tables, cal- culations, and useful observations which I consid- ered absolutely necessary to the Linen Manufac- turer and Household Customary Weaver, and also, abstracts of the various Acts of Parliament relat- ing to the linen trade, I shall endeavour to lay down, in a plain and simple manner, the general principles of Household Customary Fancy Weav- ing so as to be easily comprehended by those who may have the inclination and curiosity to follow after the Fancy Weaving department; and although it is impossible to enter into a minute detail of the vast multiplicity of figures which can be made in the weaving loom by a judicious and well regulated combination of mountings, the Op- erative, when he understands the first principles, can easily vary or extend any pattern as his curi- osity or his inclination leads him. Linen not being of so soft and flexible a nature as woollen, silk, or cotton, will not admit (except in tweeling) of such an infinite variety of fanciful decoration, but when tweeled, is particularly a- dapted for the ornamenting of thick household customary work,- table napery, &c. Surely none will be so foolish as to imagine that this work can ASSISTANT. 405 treat upon all the complicated variety of figures that may be produced, even bordering oil infinity ; for example, if 12 leaves were required for one spot, the number of changes that can be produced by the same leaves will amount to 479,001,600, a number of changes almost incredible for such a small number of leaves. But as it would be impossible to weave exten- sive patterns by leaves, a machine has been inven- ted, called the draw loom, the use of which is to combine much mounting into a small space. But previous to a description of this apparatus, it may be proper to explain the nature of drawing warps through the heddies, and the application of the cords by which the heddies are moved in succes- sion, as required for the forming any particular pattern, which is termed among weavers DRAFT AND CORDING. It is not very easy to draw plans of draft and cording, so that it may be easily understood ; but the only simple method is to lay it down horizon- tally, for the purpose of showing the heddies and treadles more perfectly, the treadles under the loom are placed directly under the heddies, but it is usual to represent them at one side upon paper, for the purpose that the reference may be the easier made from the one to the other, fig. 1, plate 12th, is a representation of a common four leaf tweel, the four leaves of the heddies are represent- ed betwixt the strokes at A, B, C, D, and number- ed 1, 2, 3, 4, the treadles are represented betwixt the strokes at E, F, G, H, and are numbered in the same order that the weaver treads them, 1, 2, . S, 3. Each thread of the warp as it passes through 406 LINEN WEAVER’S the heddles from the back to the front leaf is re- presented at I, and is numbered 1st, 2d, 3d, and 4 th threads; the black dotes in a diagonal line from K to L, upon the squares where the treadles and leaves intersect each other, signify that these leaves are sunk when the foot is trode: either the black dotes or the blank intersections (or squares) may be made sinking cords ; if the black dotes are made sinking cords, -Jth of the w’arp over the draft is sunk and fths raised, which throws the weft to the under side of the web, and if the blank squares are made sinking cords, the cloth is exactly the reverse; for example, where treadle 1st cros- ses the back leaf there is a black mark, a cord is therefore put upon the short march attached to that leaf, which sinks that leaf and raises the other three when the treadle is pressed down, treadle 2 sinks the second leaf and raises the others ; treadle 3 sinks the third leaf and raises the others; and treadle 4th sinks the front leaf and raises the three backmost; every cording is the same whatever extent it may be, only it must be observed, to put either all the black dotes or blank squares at the intersections upon the short marches, and not part of both on the same branches, as in that case the one cord would be pulling against the other when the treadles are pressed down ; in customary work blocks and pullies are used in various forms, which answer the end of long marches, in keeping up the leaves that are raised by the revolving of the pul- lies when the sinking leaves are pressed down. In slight fabrics there are two sets of marches used, short and long ; the sinking cords are put ASSISTANT. upon the short marches and the raising cords upon the long, and the leaves of the camb are suspended from the point of the levers or coupars. The short marches are placed above the long in the loom, a short and a long march for each leaf of the h ed- dies, and the cords that go betwixt the short inarches and treadles, are taken up betwixt the long inarches; suppose fig, 1. plate 12, where the treadle Mo. 1 crosses the back leaf, the black mark is a sinking cord, and is put upon the backmost short march, the other three blank squares are raising cords, and are put upon Jthe long marches, therefore, when the treadle is pressed down, the back leaf is sunk and the other three raised. Fig. 5, plate 12, is a representation of the mounting of two leaves with long and short marches, and what- ever number there are, the principle is the same. In this figure the leaves of the heddies are repre- sented at A, above which are the coupars or levers moving upon centres at B, from which the leaves of the heddies are suspended by oblique cords ; however, in the figure below, the heddies are the spring staves at C. the long and short marches moveable at the centres A, D, E, the treadles at F will be clearly seen from the figure, where all the parts of the apparatus are connected by the cords, and when the foot is trode, the short marches sink the leaves to which they are connect- ed, and the long marches raise the leaves to which they are connected, and are particularly adapted for light fabrics. It will be seen by fig. 1, plate 12, the way that the treadles are placed, but it will have all to be trode with one foot, which would be 408 LINEN WEAVER^ very inconvenient. It may, therefore, be proper to make a few observations upon the ARRANGEMENT OF TREADLES, in order to represent the uniformity of the plan of cording. When drawing a cording upon paper, it is the best way to place the treadles in regular succession from right to left in the following order, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, but in practice the treadles may be arranged in such order, that the right and left foot may be applied alternately in a way that maybe most suitable for the weaver; suppose 8 treadles to be placed that they may be trode with both feet; without the feet crossing each other, they will be placed thus, 8, 6, 4, 2, 7, 5, 3, i ; or thus, 8, 6, 4, 1, 2, 5 , 5, 7 ; or thus, 2, 4, 6, 8, 7, 5, 3, 1 ; in the first of these the whole treadles are trode with the right foot ; in the second the right foot treads the right treadle, and the left foot the 4th from the left side ; in the third, the two feet begin at the centre and tread alternately to the outside ; in the fourth example the right foot begins at the right, and the left foot at the left of the treadles, and tread alternately in to the centre ; also see fig. 2, and 5, plate 12, both of which produce the same effect, the only differ- ence is, that the treadles are arranged in a differ- ent order, fig. 1, being in the order 4, 3 , 2, 1, and fig. 2d 4 , 2, 3, 1. When plain cloth is wanted, two additional treadles must be added, to enable the Operative to weave the whole web plain if re- quired, and if not required, they may be omitted, when this is the case, for the sake of distinction, when drawing a cording, the plain treadles should be marked P. T, as in the following example. ASSISTANT. 409 1 0 0 1 1 0 0 l 2 1.0 0 * 0 0 • . . 1 4 * 4 2 p T 3 1 i I tli ink that the foregoing examples are sufficient? to illustrate the plan of arranging treadles, in order that it may be easy to go over the tread, and if at- tended to a little, is fully sufficient for the illustra- tion of the nature and plan of arrangement of treadles, c.ordings, See, Sec, When tweels do not exceed four leaves, the threads of the warp are taken and raised generally in regular succession, but where a greater number of leaves are employed, alternate succession will be found to answer the purpose much better, as the Hushing of the warp and weft will not he so far distant betwixt the points at which the threads are interwoven, which makes the fabric more equal and not so flimsy and soft to the feel, and will add greatly to its strength, durability, and dis- play of colour, if colours are used. A web of tweeled cloth and a web of plain weaved in the same set of a reed, having the same quantity of warp, and the same grist of yarn each, the two fabrics if equally used, will not wear for the same length of time, the tweeled cloth will be complete-* ly worn out in one-third less time than the plain; 3 f . 1 g 410 LINEN WEAVER'S from this it is clear, that the principal cause of the strength of tvveels, is that more warp can be crowded in less space, without any inconveniency to the weaver, and from the particular structure and elastic nature of the fabric, is less liable to cut in the wearing, and the plan that is adopted, when the tweel is long, for to give the cloth some degree of more strength is termed BREAKING THE TWEEL. When a tweel is to be broken, the same mount- ing which is employed in the weaving of a regular tweel will answer the end, all the difference is in placing the cords upon the treadles and marches, as will be seen by the following examples : 5 LEAVES. o 1 l 0 2 0 1 3 0 4 0 5 R 5 4 3 2 ■ 1 0 \ 0 I 9 0 3 o i ! ^ i 0 1 ' 5 B 5 4 3 2 1 1 These two examples will plainly shew the differ- ent ways of tweeling, which can be carried to any length ; it is easy to observe, that all the difference lies in the cording. ASSISTANT. 41 i 6 LEAVES. REGULAR TWEEL. I I 1 1 ! o | 1 1 0 | | 2 1 1 0 3 1 1 * 1 0 1 1 1 5 1 0 1 1 1 6 R | 6 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 1 j BROKEN TWEEL. I I I I I I o I 0 0 I 1° I I I ^ B j 6 | 5 j 4 j 3 | 2 1 1 | Also any tweel may either be tweeled broken or regular, by the treading, as in the following exam- ple of 8 LEAVES. A 1 1 1 1 0 1 i 0 I ip® 1 * 2 0 i 1 1 1 3 I ' 0 4 I 1 ' 0 i 5 0 1 ! 1 6 ! 1 1 1 o 7 1 o 8 Broken B 8 7 Regular 6 3 6 5 8 5 4 1 3 2 2(7 4 1 1 412 LINEN WEAVER’S These examples are fully sufficient to show the manner of weaving broken and alternate tweels, and they may be broke in various forms, besides these I have pointed out only regularity as near as possible ought to be observed. But there is sometimes the leaves will not admit of equal division, in the successive taking down of the warp; for example, a tweel having six leaves will not admit to be broken in a regular manner; the first treadle treads the back leaf, the second passes over one leaf and takes down the third from the backside, and so On the sixth, which takes down the foremost leaf ; now it will be observed, that after treading the sixth treadle, the foot returns to the first treadle, which being the leaf which follows the sixth upon the draft, leaves no interval, and the effect of these two leaves is the same as that of a regular tweel, while the effect of the other leaves is that of a broken tweel, passing a leaf be- tween each, and also two leave? of interval betwixt the intersections of the weft and warp, produced by the third and fourth treadle ; it is impossible, however, to avoid this with six leaves, although i have given it here, for the illustration of the principles of breaking the tweel, also the five leaves do not divide the tweel at regular inter- vals; there is two leaves of an interval betwixt the third and fourth treadles, but is not so much known in the weaving as that done with six, but of a small number of leaves, the eight leaves when employed for breaking the tweel at regular inter- vals, as will be seen by the example in the eight leaf tweel, two leaves are omitted, and the third sunk. It is superfluous to give a draft of a regular ASSISTANT. 41 S eight leaf tweel, as it is the same as the others, and the cords run diagonally from A to B, as on the example, besides, regular t'weels are seldom used with so many leaves, as it would make the cloth soft and flimsy; silks are tweeled with from 12 to 20 leaves, and are broken at regular inter- vals ; for example, a 16 leaf tweel may be broken by .passing four leaves, and sinking the fifth and otherwise. As all tweeling is upon the same principles, whatever number of leaves may be employed, I think the foregoing examples are sufficient to con- vey a sufficient knowledge of the principles of Common tweeling, and after that is obtained by the Operative, may be varied as his fancy leads him, into the vast labyrinth of which, it is susceptible, Such as Dimity or TWEELED STRIPES. - Tweeled stripes are different from plain tweeling all over the w eb ; as one or more intervals of the reed is tweeled by the warp on the one side, and the weft on the other side, alternately, to effect this, two sets of a single tweel are employed, and if the cording is put upon the one set to throw the warp to the upper side of the cloth, the cording upon the other set is exactly reversed, which throws the Warp dow r n through that set to the under side of the w ? eb ; which may be seen by the following example of a three leaf tweeled stripe, or two sets of a three leaf tweeling combined to- gether, or 414 < LINEN WEAVER’S DIMITY CORD. 0 0 | 1.1.1 0 1 0 2.2.2 0 3.3.3 0 0. o 1.1.1 0 I 0 0 2.2.2 0 0 0 0 3.3.3 1 3 2 ' 5 6 4 The above is an example of a stripe formed by six leaves, three of which flush the warp, and three the weft, the cording upon the back set is exactly the reverse of the fore set, see the first trode treadle takes down the back leaf of the back set and raises the two fore leaves, while at the same time it raises the back leaf of the fore set, and sinks the two fore leaves, and so of all the other treadles; which shews, that the cording of the one set must always be the reverse of the other. The stripe is formed by drawing any portion of the warp upon the one set, and another portion upon the other set, according to the pattern of the stripe that is intended ; the following is a tweeled stripe upon eight leaves, or two sets of a four leaf tweel, or ASSISTANT. DAMBOARD. I 0 o j I o I o I I c o O O C) 0 0 j 0 3 | O j 0 i 0 j 0 j 4 0 0 0 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 | 2 0 0 1 0 0 3 0 0 | 0 0 4 B 4 2 4 2 3 1 3 1 A Four treadles will be sufficient to weave the above if it is only to be striped by treading the four- treadles, numbered opposite to A, successively, but when the cloth is to be chequered, eight treadles are employed, and the treadles opposite to A and B are trode alternately, if a broken tweel is pre-» ferred, the following is an example of a BROKEN TWEELED STRIPE. ! 1 1 ! o i 0 | 2 0 | 3 0 ! 1 4 0 5 0 0 0 0 ! 0 0 0 ! o 2 0 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 0 4 0 1 0 1 0 1 0 i 5 5 1 4 3 2 s j LINEN WEAVER’S 416 As all tweels and tweeled stripes arc mounted upon the same principles, any number of leaves may be employed, the patterns depend entirely upon the repetition in various ways of the draught upon each set of the leaves ; stripes may be varied still farther, plain and tweeled may be interspersed alternately, also the web may be tweeled across at the one time and plained the other, of which. I shall give the following example of a TWEE LING AND PLAIN STRIPE. I I I I 0 I 0 f 0 | 1 0 t O O I I 2 1 ! o | | | | o a ! o I o I i I 2 0 ! o | i , 6 4 2 5 3 1 0 ■ It, will be seen here that the three front leaves are employed for the tweeling, and the two back leaves for the plain, and six treadles are necessary, but if four leaves are employed for the tweeling, four treadles will do, as in the, following example of ASSISTANT. 417 TWEE LING AND PLAIN WITH 4 LEAVES. ! 0 0 i 1 0 0 2 0 1 0 1 2 0 ! S o | i 4 4 2 s 1 i A beautiful variety may be made for stripe gowns, and petticoats, by having the ground of the web dark, and putting on dark weft of the same colour, and light colour, such as red, yellow, light green, white, &c. put in for the tweeling across the web; by treading the tread at A, makes the tweel regular, and by treacling the tread at B, makes the tweel to imitate the back bone of a herring, the following is an example of CROSS TWEELING AND PLAIN. ] i o ! 0 | 0 j 0 1 l 0 o 0 0 3 o 0 0 0. 2 0 ] 0 0 0 4 Plain 2 4 2 s 1 1 A 4 2 3 1 ; 6 5 z 1 B S 6 12 418 LINEN WEAVERS Tweeling in this way may either be broken or regular, and any number of leaves may be employ- ed; if the tweel is required to be long, more leaves are required, as in the following example of 6 LEAVES. 0 1 O 0 I 0 j 0 | 0 i - * 0 j 0 0 I 0 j 0 0 | 2 0 0 | 0 ] 0 0 j 0 3 1 0 i 0 | 0 | 0 [ 0 0 4 0 0 0 I jo jo 0 | 5 0 I 0 j 0 I 0 0 0 6 Plain 6 4 2 2 1 j 5 j 8 I Also, the tweel may be made long by the warp, but it requires double the quantity of treadles, as in the following example of a 'LONG TWEEL STRIPE. | S '1 1 o | o | o | o | i 0 0 | 0- 0 j 1 2 1 I I 1 0 1 | 0 1 1 I 1 0 | i I 0 2 1 1 0 j I 0 1 3 0 1 1 0 4 ■ ■ 2 4 2 4 1 1 1 1 1 I 3 I 3 A . ! 2 2 4 • 1 1 i * I 3 | •ill s| j |B ! I 1 1 1 i -ASSISTANT. 419 The tweel may also be broken, as in the exam- ples, page 411. The variety in stripes is so great, that I must leave it to the ingenuity of the Opera- tive to choose for himself; but in the making of stripes, of whatever kind, neither less nor more than two sets of mounting are classed to- gether; it requires the treads opposite to A and B before the succession of the tweel over 'the leaves is completed, fig. 2d, plate 7th, and the tweeling and plain stripe cording, page 416, are the same, only the form is a little different ; and there is an error in the cording upon the plate, treadle No. 1 ; let the" Operative compare the two figures, and find out the error, which is the only way to come to the proper understanding of draft and cording; for example, when the treadle No. 1, page 416, is trode, the back leaf of the plain, and the back leaf of the tweeling part are taken down, while the fore leaf of the plain, and the two fore leaves of the tweel are raised, fig. 2d, plate 7th, the treadle No. 1 being trode, takes down the plain and raises the tweel, so that when the shut- tle is thrown, passes the weft betwixt the plain and tweeled yarn, which will make no cloth at all, but treads the web in stripes, however, although the effect upon the cloth be great, the cure is very easy, for the lifting merely of the sinking cord upon the foremost plain leaf, and placing it upon the backmost tweel leaf will effect the purpose, and set it to rights; this although it may appear trifling, if understood, shews completely the effect that a single cord has when not in its proper place; and as all tweeled .stripes are upon, the same principles, the patterns depend entirely- upon 420 LINEN WEAVER’S the mode of drawing the warp through the hed- dies ; but before drawing through the heddles, the pattern is generally drawn upon a kind of paper called . DESIGN PAPER. ✓ ^ v f . ' ■ Hr * r ^ c* »> Design paper is ruled with parallel lines at equal distances, and these lines crossed at right angles, with other lines similar, exhibiting on the surface of the paper a number of small squares ; the in- tervals betwixt the lines from top to bottom, may be supposed to represent the warp, and the inter- vals betwixt the cross lines the weft of the web ; generally the tenth line both ways is drawn bolder than the others, which renders the counting by tens more easy, and the space betwixt the bold drawn lines is termed a design ; the whole surface of plate 4th is paper of this kind ; and when any figure is correctly drawn on paper of this kind, shows nearly the size of the figure upon the cloth, if the yarn is properly proportioned. In drawing any pattern upon design paper, one or more threads may be represented by the intervals be- twixt the small lines, either of warp or weft, but generally Table Cloth and Dornick patterns, in the Household Customary line, are represented by 5 threads betwixt each interval, because the tweel formed is produced by five leaves, which is termed a set of the tweel. Fig. 1st, plate 3d, is effected with two sets or 10 leaves, and also fig. 1st, plate 6th, upon that side of the figure at A of fig. 1st, plate 3d, let the black upon the squares represent the part of web where the greatest portion of the warp is uppermost on the cloth, which I will sup- ASSISTANT. 421 pose to be the back set, and the squares which are left blank, to represent that part of the cloth Where the greatest portion of the weft is upper- most, and the same of fig. 2d, plate 6th ; for two sets five leaves, draw two parallel lines, begin at the right side of the pattern at the top, and mark the black upon the one set, and the blank intervals upon the other, till the pattern is completed, and let each unit upon the lines represent 5 threads. The treadles may either be trode in the order of the draft, or varied to any other according to fancy; to illustrate which, I shall give the examples of fig. 1st, plate sd, and fig. 1st of plate 6th, the drafts are as follows, but both patterns are the same. Fig. 1st, Plate 6th, Fig. 1st, Plate 3d. 12 2 1 8 2 2 2 18 1 s 1 2 8 Both these drafts weave the same pattern, it is the order of treading makes the difference; fig, 1st, plate 6th, is begun to draw in the pattern upon the right hand at the top, opposite to B, the black upon the pattern is drawn upon the back set, and the blank squares upon the fore set; for example, by examining the draft it will easily appear, that by- treading according to the order of the draft of the one pattern, will form the pattern of the other and the reverse. I shall here give a number of drafts which require two sets or 10 leaves, which the weaver may draw upon design paper for practice. DRAFTS OF 2 SETS. No. i . No. 2, 2d Set. 40 40 | 8 10 56 T5 40 } 1st Set, 8 56 HJ 422 LINEN WEAVER’S No. o. No. 4. 10 5 10 10 5 8 40 12 44 i 2 44 10 5 10 40 10 5 8 12 44 12 44 No. 5. No. 6. 18 5 20 6 6 6 6 36 5 5 5 5 18 5 5 20 6 6 6 26 26 5 5 5 Fig. 1st, Plate 5 th. No. 8. 3 3 4 1 1 4 40 5 5 5 20 5 5 5 5 3 13 11 1 j 20 20 5 5 5 8 5 5 5 No. 9. No. 10. - 6 30 10 10 30 6 6 25 20 5 5 5 20 25 30 10 6 20 6 8 30 [ 2 5 5 20 5 5 20 5 25 No, n. 25 5 25 5 5 5 5 2 5 5 5 25 5 5 5 5 25 5 5 25 5 5 5 5 25 5 25 5 5 5 5 No. 12. __ 6 6 W 6 6 5 5 5 JO 6 6 5 5 6 6 10 10 6 20 20 5 To 10 6 20 20 No. is. 5 50 5 10 10 5 5 30 6 6 10 5 5 50 5 5 50 10 30 SO 56 6 10 10 5 No. 14. 5 5 15 515 5 30 10 30~ 5 15 5 15 30 15 SO 5 15 515 5 v 5 15 5 15 5 No. 15. , 1515 6 6 6 61025 5 5 5 15 30 15 6 6 6 6 10 10 5 5 No, 16. "SO 10 10 10 20 20 10 10 SO 20 20 10 10 rN~30~K) lO JO ASSISTANT. 4-23 r— ■ — rfgv - ■ ■ No. 17. . 15 6 6 5 15 5 5 15 10 30 5 15 6 50 5 1 5 5 15 6 6 No. 18. 30 SO SO SO 10 10 10 10 30 30 30 30 1 0 10 10 10 No. 19. 10 10 20 5 20 10 10 20 r* D 20 30 5 30 10 10 30 5 30 10 10 - No. 20. 6 6 5 15 1. 5 13 io h 0 : 2 , 5 5 30 6 5 5 15 10 10 so 5 5 2 When the weaver is to draw any draft upon de- sign paper, he will observe the following explanation of Nos. 1 and 2 ; in drawing of the pattern of No. I, 40 times over the draft is drawn, upon the back- most five leaves or back set, and 40 times over the draft upon the foremost five leaves or fore set, al- ternately, till the whole web is drawn through the heddles; and No. 2 is drawn 36 times over the draft on the back set, 10 on the fore, 10 on the back set, 36 on the fore, 8 on the back set, and 8 on the fore, which completes the draft; and if these or any other pattern is wanted, uniform on all sides, the treadles must be trode according to the order of the draft. When a variety of more patterns is wanted than can be done by ten leaves or two sets of mounting, an additional set or sets become necessary, and may be added to any extent, according to the pat- tern required; figs. 2d, places 5th and 6th, are ex- amples of patterns wrought with three sets of LINEN WEAVER’S 42 4 mounting; these patterns are not selected for any beauty they may possess, but merely to shew that the other patterns on the same plates look equally as well as them, although done with five leaves less, and might be made to look still better, if varied more both in the draught and the order of the treading, also to prevent the encumbrance of a great number of leaves, three or four leaves maj^be put in the set, and the cordings to be applied either broken or regular, are the very same as in the ex- amples pages 409, 410, and 411, and also figs. 1st and 2d, plate 12th. The following are the draughts of fig. 2d, plate 5th and 6th, wrought with o sets of tweel mounting as follows : Fig. 2d, Plate 6th, Fig. 2d, Plate 5th. 5d Set, 6 6 4 4 2d bet, 3 2 3 3 3 3 1 j 3 11 i 1st Set, 3 3 3 2 3 1 1 1 1 i By tracing the draught and pattern, it will be seen that what is done with three sets, is equally as simple and easy to understand as that of two sets ; in the draught of fig. 2d, plate 5th, 4 draughts are drawn on the back set, 1 draft on the middle set, and 1 draught on the fore set, 1 on the mid, 1 on the fore, 1 on the raid, 4 on the back, 5 on the mid, t on the fore, 1 on the mid, 1 on the fore, 1 on the mid, 1 on the fore, and 3 on the middle set, which completes the draught ; and the same is repeated over again during the drawing of the web, and it should be observed, that while the web is drawing, the weaver should look frequently at the draught, to prevent mistakes, as should such occur, the figure on the doth would be completely marred! ASSISTANT, 425 to Cd cr c* D- CL On c/2 C€ Cfl (— * cd CD CD rr rt* jr“h On Or: t— » 4a, »— * On 4L 4 . >— * to 2! 0 to to O'! *—» to CO -e— t p h»*i On to 4 ^ to 4^ Sj\ *** On 2J o « to to a on • on ►** 01 to to 4^ to to )«-*’ On to Oi to On 2 4 to 4*> On CJi — - to to On On to to p- *•» to to 4 . On On VJ vC 00 to tc |na^ t-J - On ►— » — ? TO ' k®" 4 01 01 4^ '"* p*» On 4- ui 01 f— » P**) ►<«* 0 ,"•» 0>1 Oq ip— • 'P«J 2 : 0 © *2 0 © P— * 00 to 01 r— * 01 00 01 * - ►— » • IP* 4 oq 2 ; On 00 fr— * 00 01 00' 0 • 01 Vcrw» - 00 to 00 0 M ♦*- to 4^ 00 00 to p»* >— * 1 — » 01 »— * *— * 00 4* H*"* O 1 3 © 25 o » tO PATTERNS OF 5 SETS. 42 6 linen weaver’s No. 9. No. 10. 6 6| 6 6 4 4 4 4 3 1 3 1 1 1 3 13 3 1 3 j 3 3 i 4 1 No. 11. 8 8 8 8 2 2 2 2 8 8 2 2 2 8 8 2 2 O 8 8 2 2 2 2 8 8 No. 12. 1 1 l 5 1 1 5 1 1 13 111 11 11 1 3 11 1 1 1 1 3 3 13 3 1 3 3 1 3 No. 13. " ssr- — - 1 1 6 1 1 6 113 3 1 3 113 i 3 3 1 3 1 113 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 No* 14. - 3 & 2 1 1 8 1 1 2 3 3 11 1 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 8 1 1 2 3 3 2 1 1 As I formerly observed, those who wish to fol- low after, in order to obtain a complete and thor- ough knowledge of the different branches of Orna- mental Customary Weaving, mast carefully draw the draughts upon design paper ; the plan is very simple, and only requires a little practice ; choose any pattern and begin at the right hand of the draught, and suppose every unit in the figures ASSISTANT. 427 upon the draught to be comprehended in one of the small squares of the design paper, draw the whole design of the first set selected across the paper, from the right to the left, marking the ( largest draughts upon the set; square by the weft; continue the pattern across the paper, until all the sets of which the pattern consists are inserted, when the draught of the pattern will be complete, and you will have a complete view of all the parts of which the pattern consists ; draw it the same as directed above, down 1 the sides, across the bottom, and fill up the heart of the pattern, which com- pletes the figure on all sides, if trode in the order of the draught; hy a careful comparison of the figures formerly alluded to, upon the plate, with the draughts, they will be of great benefit in ren- dering the system familar : also the above princi- ples may be carried to any extent, for as the pat- terns increase in their variety, it is only requisite to increase the number of leaves; but when a greet number of leaves are necessary, they occupy too much space, and it is very inconvenient, and almost impracticable to work with more leaves than fifteen; to obviate this, when the pattern to be weaved is extensive, an ingenious, and at the same time, a simple apparatus is applied, called the Back Harness, of which we shall treat afterwards. PATTERNS OF 4 SETS. Fig. 2d, Plate 3d. No. 2. 1 1 2 12 2 12 4 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 . 4 12 2 1 11 428 linen weaver’s No. 3. No 4. 2 4 4 1 5 5 1 1 1 1 I 1 3 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 I I 1 l 3 1 1 3 4 4 4 3 l 3 No. 5. No. 6. 6 6 3 . 3 1 1 4 1 4 | 2 1 1 2 3 I 1 4 l I 3 I i 2 1 3 1 4 3 1 1 3 No. 7. No. 8. 2 2 2 2 I 3 3 1 2 1 1 1 I 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 I 2 2 1 1 2 2 3 3 1 I 2 1 4 No. 9. ! i 1 2 112 I I I i 1 2 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 i 1 J 3 ] 3 1 1 1 2 1 2 ! 1 1 No. 10. £ 3 3 1 2 1 3 1 i 3 1 I 1 1 1 3 I 1 3 I i I I 1 3 1 I i ! No. 11. i 1 I l 1 1 3 1 i 3 1 1 1 1 l l 3 1 1 3 1 i 1 3 l 3 4 4 4 4 ASSISTANT 4 * |bcm4 On / O t- 1 - 'S-J 03 •02=) *40 00 to ’■"' CO 00 00 O * 00 wC 00 sJl oo wC' & Ow b»ri 00 tr=o=d to * r ** r ‘ oo o a »«** t»«d 4^ t»«i On. oo to “frt-n - « 00 * 00 00 to >^A CO Or, wt tmr* V 00 r— *—* / - V. 1 : "'—i O £ o fc hc- j j Wl 9 430 LINEN WEAVER’S bO to ’ bQ eO 00 tc 00 — ta— * CO 0«f tO to perai OO » t*-* "" to to v»~»* 00 - to J0ar«> *** - P»«* M M0 - < oo pe«-t » w«* f-T» mi *~K H— » 00 o 00 O iuci oo &at .mi * 1— J /»«-4 00 «-* CO „ ■ 00 • • *x*f to to V On to J— * t*"* to ►— ■ » to to to 00 w**s " *-=■* oo to 00 Inu mi 1"-* 4^ : * rB4 o - 1*** >wl *—* fr— » f*ni ; to *~ d A wk frjurz/ ***** S No. 17. ASSISTANT oo o© oo \*0 Cm 00 *z Q 0?j bd QQ o ^XJ W jt^ QO t* 00 i •00 Q * tC to to to On Uj On 'J-\ ■* i— i - p— I—* to CO 00 CO 0© No. ASSISTANT No. 5 * 434 LINEN WEAVER’S No. 9. 3 113 1 1 3 11 3 1 1 3 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 No. 10. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 1 3 3 3 2 2 11 12 2 PATTERNS OF 6 SETS. No. 1. ill ill 2 2 2 2 4 2 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 4 1 1 No. 1. Continued. 2 . 1 1 ~ l 1 1 T _ - — ”l l 11 3 2 2 ASSISTANT, 435 No. 2. 4 114 4 4 1 1 1 1 3 1 3 3 1 3 1 1 3 :12 2 3 2 2 2 No. 2. Continued. 4 1 1 4 4 1114 ■ 4 1 113 1 3 1 3 S 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 No, 3. 3 2 2 3 2 2 2 3 2 3 2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 No. 3. Continued. 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2.3 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 3 2 2 2 2 436 LINEN WEAVER’S No. 4. 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 1*1 111111 1 1 1 1 1 1 1111 1 l / No. 4. Continued. l 4 4 1 5 5 5 5 2 1 2 2 12 2 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 112 2 1 1 2 • No. 5. 5 5 5 5 5 1 1 5 5 5 5 5 1 1 5 5 5 5 5 1 1 5 5 5 5 5 11 5 5 5 8 No. 5. Continued. 5 5 2 1 4 4 4 2 15 4 i 2 1 -2 15 4 3 1 2 1 2 1 5 4 1 1 1 1 ASSISTANT, 437 No. 6. 5 2 1 2 5 8 8 2 1 8 8 5 2 2 1 8 8 5 8 8 2 1 2 5 8 8 2 1 2 5 2 2 8 8 No. 6. Continued. 5 3 3 3 5 6 6 5 1 l 1 1 5 5 5 5 5 6 6 5 3 3 3 As the range of the patterns now to be given are too extensive, for being trodc by the feet in the common way, the application of that ingenious and simple apparatus is necessary, termed by weavers a BACK HARNESS. The great superiority of the Back Harness fof patterns of an extensive range, is, that less mount- ing; answers the end, as only one set of treadles are necessary, or, a treadle for each leaf of which the Twee! is composed ; the simplest back Harness that possibly can be mounted, consists of five hack or harness leaves, and five front or plain leaves, for throwing the tweel upon the cloth, either above or below, as required in the pattern. From the con- struction of this harness, each leaf produces an effect equal to that of five leaves upon the for- mer plan, therefore, although this mounting con- sists only of five front. and five back or harness 438 LINEN WEAVER’S leaves, it possesses the means of producing any pattern consisting of twenty-five leaves or five sets, and I consider this to be the harness best suited for those in the customary weaving line, as it is neither so expensive, nor so difficult to change from one pattern to another, as the draw-loom, which is employed in the more extensive Patterns. The Back Harness consists only of five leaves, and each heddle contains an eye about half an inch long, generally made of tin, and through each of the eyes five threads of warp are drawn. Thus, supposing a web to have 2000 warp, 4000 threads, eyes, or mails, will be required for \ of the whole warp or 800 mails. The harness leaves are lifted as may be required, by means of levers or coupers across on the top of the loom, exactly above the back harness; a set of five, two for each leaf, for the sake of lifting equally upon each side, with their points nearly touching in the centre, to which there is another set, or 5 coupers fixed to the other coupers, exactly as the back leaves are required to be raised or sunk, these come across above the weaver’s head, from each of which bangs a cord with a bob at it, this cord passes through a hole in a square board, with a notch upon the one side of the hole : when the weaver is to raise any of the leaves required ac- cording as the pattern directs, he draws one of the bobs until a knot which is upon the cord comes into the notch, by means of which, the leaves necessary to be raised at the time are held at their proper height for the shuttle passing through the shed of the web : the figure of the hole, bobs, and cord, may be seen Plate li. at B. The front mounting consists of five leaves, as in a common ASSISTANT. 439 five leaf tweel, and is v/orked by treadles and mar- ches, exactly in the same way. The five threads which are drawn through each eye in the back harness, are drawn in succession one by one from the back to the front leaf, as in the examples of the draught page 410. The eyes of the front leaves, are a little longer than the depth of the shed. Of the application of this apparatus I shall treat afterwards when I come to give the cordings of Fancy Tweeling, viz. Of Flushing by Ike Warp or by the Weft ; and reversing the Flushing or Tweeling at pleasure , which mode of cording must be applied to the front leaves, so that one leaf may rise and one sink each tread of the foot, while the other three remain stationary, the order of the tweel may either be broken or regular, viz. the leaf that rises, may rise either in the broken or regular order, as also the leaf that sinks, may sink in the broken or regular order, as is required; these are exceptions from the general rule of tweeling, in which, when the foot is trode, and any number of leaves taken down, all the rest are raised. I shall give a cording or two upon this plan; all the differ- ence is, that the crosses are the raising cords on the leaves, the blanks the stationary leaves, and the cyphers on the squares the sinking cords, as follows of a FOUR LEAF DAMASK TWEEL. ! 1 1 x i 0 » I i x 0 i 2 ! x i o 3 ! o 1 X 4 i 4 j 3 2 1 440 LINEN WEAVER’S FIVE LEAF DAMASK TWEEL. 1 I 1 X | o I i 1 I X 0 2 X 0 1 3 1 X 0 4 X 5 5 4 3 2 1 SIX LEAF DAMASK TWEEL. l I o 1 0 X 2 1 0 X 3 0 X 4 X 0 5 0 _ X X 6 6 4 2 5 3 I SEVEN LEAF DAMASK TWEEL. 1 1 1 x 1 1 o i i o x 2 i 1 X i 1 o 3 o X 4 X 0 5 0 X o rar X r 7 7 6 | 5 , 4 ; 3 o At 1 ASSISTANT. 441 The first two of the foregoing are the regular tweel, the other two the broken ; but as I before hinted, it makes little matter how the tweel is dis- posed of, provided the succession be at regular in- tervals; but when the eight leaves are employed, which is generally the number used for weaving the proper or double Damask, the succession is more regular in the break, as there is always two leaves omitted, and the third either raised or sunk, according as the cords are applied ; the following is an example of an EIGHT LEAF DAMASK TWEEL. 1 0 1 1 1 1 X | j 1 1 1 x 1 0 2 1 1 0 1 X | . 3 [, -1 X 1 0 1 4 1 0 X 1 1 1 5 X I 0 6 X 1 1 7 X 0 Li 8 6 4 2 4 5 3 1 When it takes a greater number of threads than five to complete the draught over the h eddies, a full draught would be too much to put in one eye of the back harness, therefore, when six leaves are employed as a fore camb, three threads may be put in each mail ; when seven threads complete the draught, four may be put in the eye the one time, and three the other ; and when eight are employed, four in each mail, $ c. it only requires 3 k J 3 M2 LINEN WEAVER’S more mails, and a finer holeboard, and the fewer that are in the mail, the figure will have the finer turn, but in linen there is no utility in putting fewer than three, it would only increase mounting for no end. If five leaves are used for the fore camb, five threads are ptit in each eye of the mails in the back mounting, and suppose the fore leaf of the back harness to be raised, all the threads upon that leaf are raised above the shuttle, except one* fifth, which is taken down by the leaf which is sunk of the fore eamb when the foot is trode; or four threads are above the shuttle, and one below,, of each mail, upon the leaf raised of the back har- ness, and so of any number of leaves; and the other leaves of the back harness which remain stationary, all the threads are under the shuttle, except those raised by the rising leaf of the fore camb, or four threads below, and one above the shuttle, of each mail, upon all the stationary leaves of the back harness. The consequence is, that the first produces the figure above by the warp, and the other by the weft ; and the tweeling may be reversed at pleasure, by the raising and lowering the harness leaves, as the pattern requires to be done. The length of the eyes of the heddles on the front leaves being rather more than the depth of the shed, produces no effect upon the stationary leaves; but the leaf which is sunk, takes down one- fifth of all which is raised by the harness, and the leaf which rises raises one-fifth of all that is sunk. The patterns that I have given, answer equally well with the harness as with leaves, and require far less mounting; as upon this plan, five leaves of a back harness, five in the mail, will make a pat- tern to the same extent as twenty-five leaves, if z\ ASSISTANT. 4 4*3 ■ ■ single thread were drawn into each bed die on the leaves. Besides all the specimens of tweels given, there is another kind of fancy tweeling, much used in the customary weaving line, which from five leaves may be carried to any extent ; for the making of bed-covers, table-cloths, towels, &c. A specimen of the cording and upper mounting may be seen, plate 8th, fig. 2d, At A there is a block with three pui- lies in it, suspended from the bearer above ; round the pullies are the cords by which the leaves of the heddles are hung, the ends of the cords come exact- ly to the middle of the leaves to which they are at- tached. In the weaving of this figure the treadles are trode backwards and forwards, in continual succession, which forms the bird eye, or barley corn, and is much used for fine kitchen towels, &c. Also plate 7th, fig. 1st, is a figure nearly of the same kind, done with & leaves, the cording of this produces a double eye with a stitch in the centre, and applied to the same purpose ; the mounting of this requires 1 4 pullies, as at A ; two large pullies are hung from the bearer, over which at each side, at B, six smaller ones are hung; this is a free mounting, and whatever way the leaves are raised and sunk, the upper mounting will suit with the same number of leaves. The draft is upon the right, and is backwards .and forwards, the same as the tread. Figures of this kind trode from right to left, and from left to right, in continual succes- sion will form a wave ; or twice one way and twice another, makes a double wave, &c. In fact, he variety produced by this kind of fancy tweeling is almost infinite, and the understanding of it pro- perly is of the utmost importance to a customary weaver, as every change of the draught in the hed- dlek, or the tread, produces a new -figure, of which LINEN WEAVERS 44 4 there are some very beautiful. I shall give a few specimens as follows : FIVE LEAVES. Cording. Draft. 0 f: 1 1 0 o 1 i 0 0 | 0 8 2 0 0 | 0 7 3 0 0 | 0 | 6 4 0 0 | 0 | 5 5 4 6 3 &C. 2 1 At the draught you begin at 1 upon tlw back leaf, and go on to 5 on the fore leaf, and follow the numbers to 8, which finishes the draught ; and begin at 1 on the back leaf again, and so on in succession, until the drawing of the web is finish- ed ; and if a wave is wanted in the warp, end your draught always at 5, and begin at 1 again. Excepting in a few cases, I have placed the cording upon the treadles, in a regular diagonal line, from right to left, or from left to right, so that they can only be trode with one foot, but it serves the purpose of showing the cording in its regular order, more perfectly to the weaver ; and I leave it to himself to arrange the treadles, so that they may be easily trode with both feet, according to the examples given in pages 408 and 409, also the two following examples of a bird eye, done with six leaves, will fully illustrate the plan of inverting the treadles, also the sea-wave draught and tread. ASSISTANT 445 Oi 0-1 CO bO Oi O O Cn P P CL o o o o o o o ’-1 Q- L»=i « 3 Qfq O o C> <1 Cn 00 00 bO W 01 >*=* X t* w p> < t d 02 H £3 O O w HI H O S£ w o o H ov Cn 4^ 03 to m a> p p <5 rs 446 LINEN WEAVER’S g o o ja irs e 57- CD P -' C/I « O C/I CD ^ srpj o O ^ » < fO ^ CD r* § O {g O CD -• § 1—1 3 - §- s »i » tro «-► p ^ S' “s s pr r*' cr rf' JT* CD V- < CD CD P CD CD 3" -I 2 CD SIj m o 3 cr % a 3 t— 1 CD «< X CD _ v CD 3 §:§.5T» P 3 CD C/1 9 ^ p 2 *o <* o 3 1 — * o w to I— » — -- *- w 1 I tc 1— (• cn CD P P CD SIX LEAVES TRODE WITH BOTH FEET. Cording. Eve. ASSISTANT 447 £ © £ p ^ 2 3 h 3o- 3 2. c* o 50 &. g & pt* a 2. J* 3« 8 I <* w ° in ja m O r* g E? C g - ^ fD rf tB M.PJ ffg, 2 &2 ^ P . 5 T 1 ^ P p ►1 c+ C *-s 3 O B CD O •-* CD 3 p ’** B „ r JQ P 3* 3 e-* Q-l *_! 8 ^ 2 2 c 2- o - g" O' £ CD CD CD vi w th P "* V! CTQ D- £L O C pl- iEf c ft) no R * * CD rT p~. O 3“ 3 P CD | I 3 ^<3 w CD « p+ CO B C» r* rr 3 CD P PB P^.P 3 CD O © « 3 g 3 *3 2 >— 2 cd CD Q3 «-► co 3" c« v*s ~ CD k-J • n Pu CD rt- O B" < *”*•**$ o o g, CD P *-c o^O *1 _ . ,, CD O £ P ^ S' Q- B-2 cd B -* ^ CD *3 3 ■-* "3 O co CD Sr>° O P co 3 CD 3 P 00 Oi 1 o — o o o -.— o o O o o o O o o o o o o o o o o o o o o CO CO CO CO to CO to o NO to 00 j to to <1 to CD to Cn to to CO to to »■** t— 1 tea* >-•» to Cn CD <3 tBJ m 448 LINEN WEAVER’S - | « 00 o o o o oo <1 o o o o o # O o O o o Oi O o o o ►c* o o o o 00 „ o o o o to o o ° 7 \ - o o o o KO o to » CO >—* ►£» 00 o> Cr* ! 00 to 1 M EIGHT LEAVES. ASSISTANT, 449 1 . ) ■ o o o o O O 00 o o o c o O • o o o O Oi o o 0 I 0 O o On o ~c o o 4^ o o o o o 00 o o o c o to o o o o o H— » o ’5S5 3 *' o 00 o o o o - . . ■ <© H- » Y—+ to O0 00 On *— » ***** On 00 N— On to >— » I— i W w > 450 LINEN WEAVER’S I I 1 o o o O O I j 50 o o o o O O o 00 o o C o O o o to **»■» C5 G) 45. Oi oc On to Cn ui On 45. 05 00 05 to o> 4^ 45. 45. -J 00 to j 00 00 45 OC 00 CO to 00 I—' to to oc CO to 50 I I- 4 1 H W 3 t-* w r • V Half of the Double Draft. ASSISTANT 451 t— o o o o o “ o o 10 2 o o o o o c o o c o o 0 I 0 0 I 0 o o oo o o o o to o o o o o o O o o o o i ' ** ta-i to 5 GO ;o nr— 1 co 15 7 tN**» 3> CO t— ' <1 Gn 00 fcU b-J & 0v to o to ELEVEN LEAVES. 4 52 linen weaver’s 1 1 to o o o c o o o o © 00 h- * o o o o o o o o © ft 5 p >— * o o o o o o o © o © CO o o o o o o o o © OC o o o o o © o o o —> 14 10 t— ' Cn k C2 00 b-* <1 9 81 <£> to o ►fc. to H- 1 CO to to 10 “1 1 TWELVE LEAVES. 1 5 l&c. ASSISTANT 453 co to -a 22 6 23 5 24 4 to Ol oo 26 2 FOURTEEN LEAVES. 454 * LINEN WEAVEIi ? S o © © c © © © © c Oi GO o © © © © © © © c oc* •— 4 n & o © © © © © © © 1— » © © © © © © K- * o o © © c © °L © cc o © © © © © © © © cc © © © © © © © © © © © © © © © ° © © © © © 05 © © © ° © © © © © Cn © © © © © © 4> © ©! © © © © © co © <=> © © © © © tC © © © © © © © © © © © © © © © & k— 1 0-1 GO 1 i6 12 t— * »-* h— >— * GO V~» O ►—l © \C | 20 8 to 1— 1 22 6 NO CO O'. to 4- 4- to Cl T- GO to a. to 1 FOURTEEN LEAVES. 1 0 1 0 1 0 1 1 0 1 o I o I I o I oTu~r ASSISTANT. © 0 1 © w— i w — I CTt © © lol © © — — o 1 1 o ! © 1 0 1 1 0 ! — — — © I 0 I 1 0 — — o 1 lol © 03 f— * 60 © H— 1 © © © © H-» o © © cc © © © ° © oc © © — © © — © © _ © 02 © © © _ © © © © © On © © O rf*- © © 1 © © os — © © 1 © © © 1© tO © © 1 ° © 1 1 ° ©1 © ©1 © © >— 4 O) 1-^ k~> Cj? H-i OC k— a 19 13 51 05 60 i— * »— i H-l to to t— I © 6 £5 to 00 to Ot to © to ^4 On to 00 . to © Os 03 © to H* 4 - w >— 4 X H ftj M £ r ft > which run across assistant. 459 above the weaver’s head, and are fastened to a piece of wood on the wall, or otherwise at A ; these cords are termed in this way of mounting the sim- ple, but upon another plan of mounting the tail ; the lashes are attached to these cords at F, and taken down a considerable way from the cords to make them free in the drawing, then the number to be included in each pull, are joined to one of the knot cords at G, to which cord a bob or handle is hung at I, for the purpose of the weaver pulling the knot into the notch in the board at H, which takes down the simple, and brings the knots into the teeth of the comb. Plate^l lth is a side view of a harness with the figure of the comb, and one knot pulled into the teeth ; A is the back end of the simple, B a board with a hole and notch for holding up the comb, at the knot when the har- ness is raised, C the back end of the lever to which the pulling cord is fixed, D the pivot on which the lever moves, E the knot pulled into the teeth of the comb, F the joining of the knot cords to the roof, G the joining of the simple to the knot cords, H an end view of the hole board ; the plan of the harness given plate 10th is supposed to be divided into 4 parts, and into each part there are five cords of lacing, as you will see across the hole board, from L to the left side of it, and to each of the five knot cords, at the neck there is 4 of the lacing cords attached, which make 20 lac- ing cords in all, now supposing you were to tie up the harness part of plate 10th, begin at L upon the hole board, and take up the 1st, 6th, 11th, and 16th, and tie them to the first knot cord at E; then the 2d, 7th, 12th, and 17th, and tie them to the next knot cord; then the 3d, 8th, 13th, and 18th, and tie them to the next; then the 4th, 9th, 14th, and 19th, and tie them to the next ; then 460 LINEN WEAVER’S the 5th, 10th, 15th, and 20th, and tie them to the. left hand knot cord at D, which finishes the tying up; and whatever number of knot cords are drawn into the teeth of the comb, pulls up a lac- ing cord out of each part into which the harness is divided. If the connexion betwixt all the parts be traced, it will be seen that when one of the bobs are drawn down, the cord above the weaver’s head yields also ; consequently the knots upon the cords at the neck are drawn into the teeth of the comb ; when the back end of the lever to which the comb is fixed is pulled, this pulls up the knot cords and all connected thereto, which raises all the twines and mails connected therewith ; although this is but a small sketch, the principle and plan is the same, whatever extent it may be carried to. And although I have given this small sketch of a har- ness, partly upon the carpet, by the use of the bobs, and partly the Diaper and Daraask plan, by more threads being in the mail than one, it cannot be used so properly in practice, but by a careful study may lead into the theory, and the weaver can vary to any plan which he may think superior, according to particular circumstances, rather than by any particular rules given by any representation whatever. The weaving of double cloth, which is mostly confined to the carpet manufacture, and sometimes on a small scale by the customary weavers for bed-covers, is a thing which necessarily claims our attention. This branch of manufacture is com- § # posed of two separate webs, each having its own separate warp and weft, which are mounted upon such a plqn so as to intersect each other, and form a junction at certain intervals, sionaliy requires, the material errtl woollen yarn, of different < t/ ** as the figure occa- employed u m gen- colours, and all pat- \ ASSISTANT. 461 terns upon carpets are alike on both sides, but the colours, are reversed. A variety of colours are introduced into carpets, but those in the custo- mary weaving line generally confine themselves to two colours, which being the simplest, we shall confine ourselves to it for the illustration of the principle of CARPETS OF TWO COLOURS,. The fancy tweeling of which we formerly treat- ed, has a very good effect for country bed-covers, if the warp be white and the weft black, or other colours, but two webs of different colours woven in the carpet or double cloth style, has a better effect, and much stronger; eight leaves will answer completely for a checker or damboard pattern, exactly the same as the tweeled damboard pattern page 415 , but the cloth is plain, and the colours unmixed, the draught and application of the cords are as follow : 462 linen weaver’s sT2 White Shot, o 4* o o — O ^2 Black Shot, o 1 White Shot, 01 O o o o 10 o V o o I Black Shot, t— * o o o 5*2 White Shot, 4^ o ■ o o o g 2 Black Shot, 01 o O O o g!l White Shot, c to o o o o 2 l Black Shot, e o o 3 o PT' ?r f-t- o r^t O oo ) 01 On A 00 i to -I 1 v bite Above. Black Above. ASSISTANT. In. the foregoing draught and cording, it will be seen upon examination, that the two back leaves of the back set contain the black warp, and the two fore leaves the white, and also the two back leaves of the fore set the black, and the two fore the white, the web is also wefted by throwing in a shot of black and a shot of white across, time about. Let it be supposed that all the white warp upon the fore front leaves be wrought above, and the black warp below, and the four backmost leaves raised and sunk exactly the reverse, and next in order examine what effect each treadle has as we go along. If treadle No. 1, on the right hand, be pressed down, and a shot of black weft thrown a- cross the cords which connect the treadle with the black leaves, No. 1 and 5 raises these leaves, and sinks the leaves marked 2 and 6; by this tread one half of the black warp is raised, and the other half sunk, which by the draught being alternate, pro- duces plain black cloth ; but it will be observed, that by this tread the white warp is not interwoven at all, as the two white leaves No 5 and 4, of the back set are sunk, and in the front set, the two white leaves No. 7 and 8 are raised, which reverses the operation ; the black weft, therefore, passes over the former and under the latter* quite clear of either, which operation repeat shot about to treadie No 4, and so long as the operation is re- peated in continual succession upon these four treadles, the effect will be as in the cording, page 415, the web will have the appearance of a black and white stripe. But to produce the checker or damboard pattam, when one set of squares are completed upon the right hand treadles ], 2, 3, 4, the weaver shifts to the four left hand treadles, 3, 2, 3, 4, which entirely reverses the effect, rais^ 464 LINEN WEAVER’S ing the whole which was formerly sunk, and sink- ing that which was formerly raised, and the same with the black. These are the first principles of double cloth weaying, and its application to fanci- ful decoration is the only variety formed in the mounting of the loom ; carpeting is seldom wrought vrith treadles on account of the coarseness of the materials, broadness of the webs, and extensive range of pattern, that there would neither be room for the leaves necessary, nor for the exertion re- quisite for treading. Although carpets are generally weaved in full mounted draw looms, the application of a very simple apparatus similar to that used in the weav- ing of table cloths, is the only thing suitable for Household Customary weavers, as the range of their pattern seldom is to the extent so as to make the application of the full draw loom necessary : for the illustration of which, we shall have recourse to the foregoing pattern, and compare the explan- ation given of mounting it with leaves, and the effect of weaving it by the ASSISTANT. oo tO X O 2 White Shot. X o 2 Black Shot. o 1 x 1 White Shot. I-- o X 1 Black Shot. | oo *sJ © © a 00 Cjn I 05 On 1 K CO 1 ^ ►P CO | 1— » j to to «o H* ; oc GO &•«••• 9 9 « « 9 • 9 9 • 999 05 n\ Cn ' ,K CO \ 'i ■■;■' :■ to ; taws CsJ u bd bd 3 j— » p" P j i“0 r-+ o O ! fD 05 77 ?r 4^ GO to to EC P '-s S ro c n Cfi CD P '■+5 \* * bd be 1 be bd ffil P -s S CTl : 01 l [“"t o ffi bd bd bd bd > n ffi > £d bd 02 02 5 N 13' 466 LINEN WEAVER^ This mounting will produce the same effect as the former, and is very convenient for Customary Weavers in the weaving' of bed-covers. The two O back leaves are the harness leaves, and are raised by coopers, as explained page 458: two threads are drown through each eye of the harness; W and B represent the black and white yarn as drawn through the harness; and the draught is shewn by figures on the fore camb; the cording is put up the same as explained page 4S 9. When one of the harness leaves is raised, a shot of white and a shot of black is put in alternately, until a checker is completed, when that leaf is lowered and the other raised, which reverses the colours, and so on al- ternately, &c. &c. READING ON THE DESIGN Is on account of the accuracy necessary, a very particular part, and upon which depends the pro- per formation of every pattern. When this is to be done, the simple is put into a reed with a vacancy for every heavy line upon the paper the pattern is drawn upon; see page 420 for the description of design paper; let plate 2d represent a flower which if woven by the length, the extent is 41 mails, by the breadth; and if woven across the web, the ex- tent is 83 mails, so that the one way the figure is repeated as often as there is 41 mails or 82 splits, and the other as often as there is 83 mails or ]66 splits in the warp of the web; the first requires 41, and the second 83 simple cords; the first also re- quires the harness to be changed 83 times, anti the second 4 1 times in working the pattern. The instructions for reading on are, beginning at the bottom of the flower on the right hand, taking up the black and passing the white; say pass 8 and ASSISTANT, take 4, pass 7, and take 7, pass 5 and take 7> and if the flower is to he woven across the web begin upon the right and say pass 3 and take 5, pass H) 9 and take 4, pass 9 and take 2. pass 6 and take 5, pass 2 and take 5, pass 2 and take 10, pass 14 and take 1, pass 4 and take 1, &c. until the whole is put on. The operation is very simple, a lash is pass- ed round each taek that is marked out upon the pattern, and until one line. The pattern is corn- pleted when they are all uniformly tied together, at a convenient distance from the simples, so as not to impede the freedom of the draught, see plate 10th, at j£r. Another thing requisite is, that every pattern must be made to correspond or join at the extremity of the extent, on each side of the simple. In the flower, plate 2d, what is wanting of the hanging leaf at the bottom is at the top, and when woven either length ways or across will exactly join; also plate 4th, of a sprig, what is wanting of the sprig at the middle of the page is at the bottom, and makes a whole, and so ot every pattern of whatever extent. But to enter into theso things minutely would take up volumes, f therefore recommend study and practice, which will render the thing familiar~and easy. There is also another kind of cloth greatly in use for towels, called liuckabag, of which I shall give a cording or two. * 468 LINEN WEAVERS '■ DARLINGTON. ■ 1 0 1 4 2 | 0 J 1 0 0 5 3 1 0 0 0 I 0 0 | 5 3 1 0 0 1 0 1 1 1 O 1 1 j 4 2 0 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 I 1 1 2 1 1 ) 1 3 1 4 1 I j By either tread- j 1 4 1 3 1 I 5 | I 1 | ing the two out- j 1 1 5 | l 1 f 2 1 1 | side or middle | 1 i 1*1 1 1 1 4 | 3 j treadles works | 3 I 4 | | ! 1 |5 j plain. 5| 1 I PENNY DORNICK. ! o I 0 1 3 1 3 1 O 0 | 7 5 4 2 0 0 1 j 4 2 7 5 0 0 ! 1 8 6 8 6 l 1 1 2 1 l ! 3 1 1 4 If the knot is wanted double i 1 5 ! 6 j repeat each part of the draught i i 7 I ^ j twice. ! i 1 1 2 1 ! 3 ! 1 4 | i 1 ^ 1 1 6 | i 1 1 I » 1 i DOUBLE DRAUGHT OF NETTED KING’S HOOD. 4 2 4 2 4 2 6 6 5 3 1 5 3 1 5 S l 5 3 1 5 3 1 5 3 1 6 6 4 2 4 2 4 2 Note . — Plate 8 th, fig. 1st. is the Cording and Simde Draught. 2 Sfote . — Both the above are woven shot about, and continued on the same treadles until each row of checkers is completed ; and also the warp may be made ol linen, and weft woollen. ASSISTANT, 469 J to I oo 1 I ** CO K 5T 5" £L O tr" O l ~“ pt* o pc' c * 3 * < o o 00 05 to c PS n* CZ> D - C c-f* 0^0 2020 g o % 0^02 g S. § » g » 2 cc O co o gc o on 00- rr 2“ ET J"** ET o • o • c * o r-h • r*^- * ft- • cr- I I I I 00 I ! S to I A I to I oo 25 o o o o <1 Oi 00 oc 05 to On 00 o FLOATED WORSTED BED COVERS. 470 LINEN WEAVER’S ASSISTANT. It surely will not be thought that I could in this work treat minutely on every particular part in the Fancy Customary Weaving line; certainly not, as that would he an endless ’labyrinth: but 1 have given a short sketch of that which I considered absolutely, essential and necessary. Some will, no doubt, approve, and some disapprove of the work, because they imagine nothing right but what they do themselves, although they can do nothing right; but this gives me no concern, as I am fully con- vinced it will answer the end for which it is intend- ed, and the arrangements are, as near as possible, made so as to he easily understood by any of an ordinary capacity. Kh till t Blackie , <\ Co. Printer Glasgow. TO THE PUBLISHERS, Gentlemen, Wf > the undersigned* having careful J’y Inspected the Work published by you, entitled th6 Linen Manufacturer , Household. Customary Weaver and Warper's Assistant , highly approve of the plan and arrangement of the same, and recommend; it to all those engaged in- the Linen Manufacture and Household Customary Weaving department* as the most complete Work of the kind ever pub* pished.- It appears to tis to supersede the use of any other publication upon the same subject, (ex* eept a complete and total change in the Linen Manufacture of the country take place, which for centuries is not likely,) as it embraces every thing of utility from the building of the heddles to the finishing of the cloth, either plain or figured, a- m on g which are a great variety of things entirely new. We think it a Work highly creditable both to the Author and Publishers. (Signed,) Charles Malloch, Manufacturer . John Hogg, Manufacturer . John Stewart, Customary Weaver. Daniel Robertson, Customary Weaver* PERTH, l June 4th, 1£19 ? J % / CONTENTS. Page. Dedication,..'....., 3 Introduction-Antiquity of Weaving, &c 5 Table of Linen Yarn,... * 9 Table of Cotton and French Yarn— Linen and French Yarn compared, 20 Division of warps, 11 Arithmetical Calculations of Linen Warps, 12 Do. Of Warps from French Yarn, 16 Do. Questions for Practice, 17 Table 1. Shews how much Yarn it will take to be the Warp of a Web any length and breadth, 19 Of Warping — Calculations for Do. and Questions for Prac- tice, 67 2. Shews how much Warp any number of Bouts will give run with any number of Runners, 68 Of Beaming — Calculations for Do. Questions for Practice, with and without allowance for building Heads, ....... 97 3. Shews what evener (raith or ravel) will be required for the Beaming of any Web, 103 Of W T arping, Beaming, and Dressing Bed-Ticks, Stripes, &c. 139 Examples for setting Cambs (or Heddles) and Harnesses to Reeds, by Arithmetic and strokes, with Observations on Ditto, 140 4. Shews how to set Cambs (or Heddles) to Reeds, v 147 Of the weight of Linen Yarn — Calculations for ditto, and Questions for Practice, 164 5. Shews the weight of the Spyndle and Hank, and the Spyn- dles and Hiers in a Pound weight, 170 Of the Splits on any net Breadth — Acts of Parliament rela- tive thereto — Calculations for ditto, and Questions for- Practice, 178 6. Shews how many Splits is upon any net Breadth, 186 Of the length of Reels — and Acts relating thereto — Calcula- tions for ditto, and Questions for Practice, 190 7. Shews how much Warp any number of Hiers and Cuts of a 10, 11, and 12 quarter reel will give to one ell, 198 Of the Warp necessary to make Cloth stand any breadth when woven — Acts relating thereto — Calculations for- ditto, and Questions for Practice, 200 8. Shews how many Porters and Splits it will require to make Cloth stand any breadth when woven, 212 Of the quantity of Yarn required to make Cloth count any number of shots in the glass— Observations on the Web- glass, &c 217 474 CONTENTS Table . Page. 9. Shews how much Yarn it will take to one ell of Cloth, counting from 3 to 30 shots on the Glass, 218 Of the making of Webs half Linen half Cotton — Discount upon Water Twist — Calculations and Questions for Practice, 227 10. Shews the discount upon Water Twist Cotton Yarn at any rate per cent, . 232 Of the comparison of Reeds— Calculations for ditto — and Questions for Practice, 244 11. Shews when a Reed is any number of Hundreds on one breadth, what number of Hundreds, Porters and Splits it is upon any other breadth, . 253 12. Shews the Stockport, Preston, Blackburn, Manchester and Bolton Muslin count of R.eeds, compared with the Scotch Reed on 37 inches...... , 258 Observations upon the prices paid for Customary Weaving,.. 264 13. Shews a data for the regulation of the payment of Custom- ary Weaving, Winding, &c 265 Of the making and dressing of Heddles, 267 13. Shews the weight and quantity of Linen Yarn made three- fold required for cambs (or heddles) at any breadth and depth, 270 Of the various ways of making Dressing, 296 14. Shews the quantity of Flour, Water, and Alum required for making any quantity of Dressing, 3 00 Of the boiling and cleansing of Linen Yarn, 306 15. Shews the quantity of Pot and Pearl Ashes required for the boiling and cleansing any quantity of Linen Yarn, 307 IS. Shews when a Web is run with any number of Pinfuls (or half gangs) how many pins of an evener (raith or ravel) any number of Bouts will fill, run with any number of pinfuls,.. 317 Of the number of threads in the split of the Reed, 320 17. Shews how much of a Reed any number of common Por- ters, of 2 in the split will fill, having from 3 to 8 threads in the split, 321 Of the setting of Yarn to Reeds, 325 18. Shews the square of any set of a Reed, 328 Calculations for setting by the Spyndle, half Spyndle, Hank, Hiers, Cuts, Threads, and Inches in the pound weight, 330 Cambing, or setting Linen Yarn to Reeds by the Memory,... 350 Calculations shewing how to find what Reed will do for any weight of Yarn— and Questions for Practice, 351 24 Tables shewing how to camb (sley or set) Shirting, Irish Linen, Clear Lawn, Silesia, Check, Tweeling, Diaper, Britannia, Dornick, Umbrella Cloth, Holland, Bed Tick, Hushing or Bagging, Sacking, Cotton and Linen Shirt- ing, Wincie, Strelitz, Osnaburgh, Dowlas, Linen Blunks, Stripped Holland, Plaiding, Plain Woollen Cloth, Sheet- ing, Canvass, and Observations on each kind of Cloth,.., 358 CONTENTS *75 T able. Page . 43. Shews what should be the weight of each piece of Canvas^, from No, 1, to No. 8, at any length from 38 to 43 yards,. 372 Of the Invention of the Sliding Rule, and description of ditto, 375 Application of the Sliding Rule to Business, and the Art of Weaving,... 378 Of the Sizeing, Glueing, preparation and Manufacture of Woollen Yarn^ 399 44. Shews the quantity of Hide Shavings and Joiners’ Glue, re- quired for the Sizeing or Glueing of Woollen Yarn, 401 Of Fancy Household Customary Weaving, , 404 Draft and Cording, .. 405 Arrangement of Treadles, 408 Of Broken and Regular Tweels, 410 Of Tweeled Stripes, 413 Of Design Paper, 420 Draughts of Two Sets, . 421 Pattern of Three Sets, .....1 425 Do. of Four Sets, 427 Do. of Five Sets, 431 Do. of Six Sets...... 434 Back Harness,. 437 Of Damask Tweels, 439 Of Fancy Tweels, 443 Serge Tweel, and Reed Scale, 456 Draw Loom, 458 Carpets of Two Colours— Draught and Cording for ditto, 461 Application of the Back Harness to ditto, and Draught and Cording, 464 Reading on the Design, 466 Draught and Cording of Dornick floated Bed-covers, 468 Recommendation of the Work, 471 Contents,... 473 "V i 6 ^ - . tii-w' . 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