Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2019 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/descriptionofvie00burf_28 . ROYAL PANORAMA, VIEW OP THE LEICESTER SQUARE, CITY OP CAIRO. 23 24 1. Mosque near the Roumelia Square. 2. Mosque of the Sultan Hassan. 3. Gate of Tooloon. 4. Pyramids. o. Old Cairo, the Egyptian Babylon. 6. Mosque of Ibrahym Aga. 7. Town of Gezeeh. 8. The Nilometer on the Island of Rhoda. 9. River Nile. 10. Libyan chain of Mountains. 11. Mosque El Kharbakyeh. 12. Island of Guaranteh. 13. Mosque Om-es-Soultan. 14. Palace. 15. Boulak. 16. Gate of Meswaldy. 17. Mosque of the Sultan El Moaiud. 18. The Delta. 19. Mosque of the Sultan El Ghoree. 20. Tomb of the Sultan El Ghoree. 21. Shoobi'a. 22. Mosque of the Morostan. 23. Mosque of the Sultan Berkook. 24. Mosque of the Sultan Kalaoon. 25. Walls and Gates of the City. 26. Boshara, an Arab of the Tribe of Benesaids. VbTnTOr pul 37. Fortifications. 38. Citadel. 39. Gi’eat Mosque in the Citadel. 40. Pacha’s Palace. 41. Old Mosque built by Ahmed Ebn Taloon. Wi. INI L. LI ft ]m c. 27. Ruined Fort built by the French 28. Mosque of Ayed Bey. 29. Mont Rouge. 30. Tomb of the Sultan Berkook. 31. Desert of Suez. 32. Tombs of the Caliphs. 33. Mosque El Juyooshee. 34. Mokkattam Mountains. 35. Tombs. 36. Omnibus on the Road to Suez 42. New Mosque. 43. Road to the Gate of the Vizier. 44. Dancing Girls. 45. Litter for Ladies. 46. The Shiekh el Gem’el, or Shiekh of the Camel 52. Sack’cka Shur’beh, or Water Carrier. 53. Ibrahim Pasha. 54. Mehemit Ali. 55. Boatmen of the Nile. 56. Berber Arab. PRINTED BY T. ERETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET 47. The Mahhmil. 48. Camel with the treasure, &c. 49. Egyptian Ladies riding. 50. A Dervise. 51. A Descendant of Mahomet. DESCRIPTION A VIEW OF THE CITY OF CAIRO, AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY, TOW ISOSHBfflHIKr© AT THE PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. Mira© m Tin® nwiprnoTOm* ROBERT BURFORD, ASSISTED BY MR. H. C. SELOUS, FROM DRAWINGS BY D. ROBERTS, Esq., R.A. Honfton: PRINTED BY T. BRETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. 1847. The Drawings were made expressly for this Panorama by D. ROBERTS, Esq., R.A., and the costume of the various figures was principally taken from an extensive and splendid collection of dresses in the possession of that gentleman. Mr. R. Burford avails himself of this opportunity of expressing his acknowledg- ments for his kindness in lending them for that purpose. THE HOLY LAND, AND E G Y P T AND N U B I A, BY DAVID ROBERTS, R.A. Mr. Burford has also the pleasure to state that the portion of this splendid Work, by David Roberts, R. A., comprising EGYPT AND NUBIA, is now ready, and will be published by Mr. Alderman Moon, uniformly with the former Volumes of his celebrated Illustrations of the HOLY LAND. This portion of the Work has been delayed only until Mr. Roberts and Mr. Louis Hauhe, could commence their portions of this important undertaking with the certainty of its progress to completion without interruption. To compensate for this delay, Four Parts are ready ; the first of these is now published. The interest and value of the forthcoming graphic Illustrations of ANCIENT EGYPT AND NLTBIA cannot fail to be acknowledged when the ability of the Artists—pre-eminent in their power to produce such a work—is considered, and that it represents the Ruins of those Cities and Structures which existed in all their grandeur three thousand years ago. These Ruins remain to attest the state of Art and of Society in that land (so intimately associated with the Sacred Writings), whence flowed to future ages and other nations those tastes which never pro¬ duced among them works to rival in vastness and splendour those of the Ancient Egyptians. lhe Text, descriptive and historical, has been undertaken, at the request of Mr. Roberts, by W. Brockedon, F.R.S. P-S* A Map of the HOLY LAND, to accompany that portion of the Woi'k which has been finished since it was published, will be given in the forthcoming EGYPT AND NLUHA. CAIRO. El Kaherah, or Cairo, the metropolis of Modern Egypt, by the inhabitants called “ Musr ,” “ the mother of the world,” stands in the midstof an immense plain, on the right or eastern bank of the Nile, near the entrance of the valley of Upper Egypt, and about a mile and a-lialf from the river. Like most other large Mahomedan cities, its appearance is particularly grand and striking, from the great number of fine Mosques, whose noble domes, cupolas, and beautiful minarets, are seen rising far above the ordinary dwellings ; and the whole being surrounded by groves I and gardens, some of the trees and flowers in which, are new to the eyes of Europeans, cannot fail to create the most pleasing impressions; which are considerably heightened by the knowledge, that Cairo does not owe its great celebrity alone to its appearance, but that it lias been the scene of many remarkable events in history, and has been made the theatre of many romantic and surprising occurrences in Arabian fable. The present Panorama was taken from the summit of one of the extraordinary mounds, which formerly encircled the city, impeding the free circulation of air, and causing clouds of dust; which, rising to the height of nearly 150 feet, commands a complete view of the city and I suburbs, and of the surrounding country, to an immense extent. Imme¬ diately in front of the spectator, towards the west, the innumerable details of the city unfold themselves, varied by all the fantastic forms i! of architecture, observable in oriental nations; the whole, to an Eu- I ropean eye, singularly confused, without the least appearance of plan or systematic arrangement; the overhanging houses with large pro¬ jecting windows in the ancient Arabian style, so obscuring the narrow irregular streets, that their lines can scarcely be traced; the peculiar characteristic being innumerable flat roofs, above which rise hundreds of proudly-swelling domes and slender minarets, wonderfully rich in ornament. Beyond the city, towards the left, is seen Fostat, or Old Cairo, and the richly-wooded island of Rhoda; and to the right, the minarets and smoke of the port of Boulak, and the palace and groves of Slioobra. The eye then rests on the expansive waters of the vene¬ rable Nile, flowing between verdant banks of the richest green the ! imagination can conceive; beyond which the view extends over the great Libyan desert, a long, uniform, scarcely undulating plain of sand, extending in some parts to the utmost verge of the visible horizon, in others bounded in the extreme distance by the mountains of Libya and Upper Egypt; the low line from south to west broken only by the majestic Pyramids of Dashoor, Sakkarah, and Gezeeh, glowing like the purest marble in the sunshine. 4 Northward from the city, the fertile country of the Delta, and the rich lands of Goshen stretch farther than the eye can follow; whilst towards the east, are seen the magnificent tombs of the Memlook caliphs, mosques, minarets, and sepulchres, forming a complete city in themselves, with the Arabian desert in its literal meaning, spreading as far as Suez, the sterile plain of golden sand, approaching at this point to the very walls. To the right, stands the immense citadel, frowning in dark majesty from its rocky height; and the abrupt precipices of the black Mokkattam mountains form a fine back-ground, and close a view 7 , for extent and variety, seldom equalled. Cairo is comparatively of modern date, extending no farther back than the tenth century of our era. It was founded by Goher el Kaed, the general of Aboo Tummin el Moez, the first of the Fatamite dynasty who reigned in Egypt; who, having conquered the country about 358 of the Hegira, A.D. 969, founded the city, which he named the vic¬ torious, and made it the capital instead of Fostat. From El Moez descended nine caliphs, the last of whom was deposed by the celebrated Saladin, who enlarged the city, and rebuilt the walls with stone. In 1517, Cairo was taken by the Turks, by whom the whole of Egypt was subdued, and remained in their possession until 1798, w r hen it w r as taken by Buonaparte, but was surrendered to the British and Turkish forces in 1801. In 1831 the Pacha Mehemit Ali declared his independence, and possessed himself of the greater part of Egypt and Syria; by the interference, however, of the great powers ef Europe, the country was restored to the Sultan, the Pachalic of Egypt being made hereditary in the family of Mehemit. Before the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope, Cairo w r as a place of great trade, and even so late as the fifteenth century was esteemed one of the most flourishing capitals in the world, being the emporium of at least two quarters of the globe; but that discovery, and the reduction of Egypt by the Ottomans, transferred to other states the trade it had so long monopolised ; but the advantages of its geographical position, and the extreme fertility of the soil, present resources, which the con¬ summate skill and ability of Mehemit are w r ell calculated to call into action, and cause Egypt to take again that rank amongst nations which for centuries it has ceased to hold, and to regain its commerce to its ancient channel, by becoming the point of contact between Europe and Asia. The immense importance of the overland passage through Cairo, established mainly by the energy of Lieutenant Waghorn, is sufficiently obvious, in the rapid communication wfith our eastern possessions. The effects of this intercourse are also very visible in the city, in the changes that have taken place during the last few years in the manners and customs of the inhabitants, especially in their treatment of foreigners. Order and security of property has been established, the law 7 s have been more equitably administered, manufactories of all kinds have risen, and more useful institutions have been called into existence by the Pasha, than by any other sovereign of Egypt, or perhaps of the whole world. A system ot education and schools has also been formed, of which not the slightest conception existed in the East. In Cairo and its immediate vicinity, there are no less than 95 public schools, where at least 11,000 children, and young persons are educated, and the greater proportion fed, clothed, lodged, and even paid by the Pasha; and from amongst I whom are selected the pupils for the military, naval, and medical col¬ leges. All admit that Egypt, both now and hereafter, will be eminently benefitted by the operations of his indefatigable mind, and by the mighty impetus he has given to one of the most neglected portions of the globe; indeed, if any proof of his magnanimity and enlightened views were wanting, the remarkable fact of his permitting the transit of our mails and passengers through his dominions, whilst engaged in open hostilities against him, would furnish one that can scarcely be paralleled amongst the more enlightened nations of Europe. Cairo stands in a sandy plain, with scarcely any inequality of ground, and occupies a space equal to about three square miles. It is surrounded by a stone wall above seven miles in circumference, and has twelve gates, some of which are large and handsome. The whole of this space is not, however, covered by streets or buildings, for besides several squares, there are many large gardens, and numerous vacant ruinous spots. A canal traverses the city from south to north, and, winding round the northern wall, enters it again on the west, and terminates in a lake in the Esbeykeh square. The city is divided into fifty-five quarters, which are named, and were formerly occupied by different nations, or tribes, the gates dividing them from each other still remain, and are regularly closed at night; but little attention is now paid to the classification of the inhabitants, always excepting the Jews, who are strictly confined to the narrow dirty lanes and ill-built houses of their quarter. The Frank quarter is, perhaps, the most open and the best built, owing to a fire having consumed a great portion of it in 1838. It now boasts a theatre, a literary association, and the Egyptian Society, who have a good library. In all other parts the streets, with very few exceptions, are narrow, crooked, unpaved, and dark, but remarkably clean; a recent edict com¬ pelling their being watered, swept, and the dirt removed, two or three times a day. Cairo contains nearly four hundred mosques, some being in ruins, whilst others present a most magnificent appearance from their size, and florid decorations, which resemble the elaborate lightness of some of the most finished specimens of gothic. The Minarets are also lofty, well-proportioned, and elegant, some being so richly decorated with balls, crowns, and galleries, that they resemble finely-chased can¬ delabra, or rich carvings in ivory. The Copt Christians have several handsome places of worship, and the Jews as many as eight synagogues, one of which they pretend has existed in its present state 1600 years. There are sixty or seventy public baths in various parts of the city ; some are handsome and form places of amusement and refreshment. The Bazaars are numerous, lofty, and spacious, each trade has its allotted quarter, and the merchandise displayed is costly and elegant. There are also about two hundred Wekalehs, or Inns, large buildings surround¬ ing open courts, the lower parts of which form warehouses, or shops, and the upper, lodgings for the merchants. There are also many coffee houses, where numbers pass the day, smoking, listening to professed story tellers, or looking at the tricks of itinerant jugglers. Cairo contains about 30,000 inhabited houses, some handsome modern erections of stone from the quarries of Mokkattain ; others l 6 partly of stone and ill-burnt bricks, of a dull red colour; whilst the meanest are constructed of clay. The best are large and commodious, rather than elegant, being far more picturesque than classical; they usually enclose an open court, into which most of the windows look, and are two or three stories in height, with terraced roofs. The front in the street is usually painted in stripes of various colours, especially red, and presents on the ground floor a small door, surrounded by elegant carving, having a large iron knocker and wooden lock; there are also two or three small grated windows placed too high for any one to look in at; on the second and third floors, which project about two feet over each other, and are supported on carved corbels, are large bay window's, farther projecting about a foot and a-half, and enclosed by very orna¬ mental lattice work, sometimes painted red or green, from which the inmates obtain a view up or down the street, without being themselves seen. In some narrow streets these projections nearly meet across, which, far from being an objection, is admirably calculated to shade the road beneath from the intense heat of the sun. Some houses have small shops below, the upper parts being let to other tenants, in suites of two or three rooms. On the roofs of many may be seen sloping sheds formed of boards, which being open to the north, or north-west, convey a stream of cool air to the apartments below. The interiors have a bare and uncomfortable appearance : there are no fire-places, nor are there any apartments appropriated as sleeping rooms; the furniture is of the simplest description, divans, small carpets or mats, and a mattrass and pillow of w T ool for repose, which is spread at night in any room, or on the terrace roof, constituting nearly the whole. It is impossible to state correctly the number of inhabitants, but the best informed authorities estimate the resident population at about 220,000. Before the plague of 1835, the number was much larger. About half this number are Moslems, 60,000 may be the number of the Christian Copts, 8 or 9000 Franks and Greeks, and 4000 Jew's, the remainder Armenians, &c. &c. During the day the leading streets are crowded with a motley throng, and the noise and confusion defies description. Horsemen on richly caparisoned steeds, in all the splen¬ dour of the Asiatic costume, interminable rows of camels laden with merchandise, or skins of water, females, who enjoy much more liberty here than in Turkey, closely enveloped in black garments, their eyes alone visible, riding astride on the high and uncomfortable saddles of their mules and asses, itinerant vendors of various articles of food, and abun¬ dant specimens of every complexion and dress on the face of the earth, from the closely enshrouded oriental, to the completely denuded child of nature. Turks, Copts, Armenians, Arabs, Franks, and Jews, all jostling each other with the greatest good humour, a singular and amusing scene, that completely embodies some of the vivid descriptions of the Arabian Nights. DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. No. 2 .—Mosque of Abdel Hassan. The largest and most holy of the numerous mosques of Cairo, and the gem of its public buildings, being scarcely surpassed in the beauty of its architecture, by any gothic temple in Europe. Tt was erected in the 14th century, with materials despoiled principally from the Pyramids, and from the pavement to the crowning ball of its minaret, all is perfect, presenting an endless profusion of richness and taste in its various decorations, that must strike the eye of every admirer of fine architecture with pleasure. Arches of extraordinary boldness span the sides of the spacious open court, which is entered by a very lofty and beautifully-ornamented porch, whilst noble bronze gates, finely inlaid with silver, give admittance to the interior. Immediately beneath the dome, a mausoleum bearing date 1363, contains the remains of the Sultan after whom it is named, (who was stabbed on the very spot, the stain of his blood being still visible,) on which is deposited a small iron chest, and an ancient and beautifully- written copy of the Koran, of immense size. The dome, from which hang numerous lamps, and votive offerings, is ornamented with fine arabesques of mosaic work, com¬ posed of small coloured stones, and a gallery which runs round, has a frieze on which are passages from the Koran, in gigantic Arabic characters. No. 4.— Pyramids. These enigmatical structures, four in number, which antiquity extolled amongst its wonders, and which for size, sublime unity of design, solidity of construction, and the severe simplicity of their once sacred forms, which renders them everlasting as com¬ pared with any other structure known, are the most mighty monuments of power and pride ever raised by man. These stupendous works of the Pharoahs, erected in an age of which we have but little record save tradition, have been objects of unbounded admiration and interest in all ages, but of late years have become more especially so, from the indefatigable and toilsome researches, and valuable discoveries of Salt, I Belzoni*, Caviglia, Howard Vyse, and others. They are distant about ten miles from Cairo, and stand on a ledge of rock a little above the plain of sand by which they are surrounded. The largest, generally called the Pyramid of Cheops, from being so named by Herodotus, is 460 feet in height to the plateau, which although it appears nearly pointed, is 32 feet in diameter, when complete, it must have been about 20 feet higher ; the base measures 732 feet on each side, thus covering a space of about eleven I acres, and the solid contents are estimated at above eighty-five millions of cubic feet I of stone; to use a familiar illustration, it is about the height of St. Paul’s, and covers a space equal to the area of Lincoln’s-inn-fields. The whole was originally cased with fine marble, and is said to have employed in its erection 100,000 men for thirty years. The second, the Pyramid of Cephrenes, is 447 feet in height; the third, that of Mycerinus, 203 ; and the fourth, called Philista, is very small. I * Belzoni, by the most indefatigable exertions, discovered a large apartment in one of the Pyramids, containing a sarcophagus in which were some bones, supposed to be those of a King. These bones having been brought to England, were presented to the Prince Regent, when they were pronounced by Sir Everard Home, to whom they were I * submitted, to be those of a bull, as appears from his correspondence with Dr. \V. Rae Wilson on the subject.— Vide Wilson’s Travels in ihe Holy Land, pp. 124, 125. 8 No. 5.— Fostat, or Old Cairo. Fostat, or Musr el Ateekeh, is supposed to occupy the site of the Egyptian Babylon which was built by the followers of Cambyses 525 B. C. and named after their own metropolis. When Amer, the commander of the Caliph Omar, conquered Egypt, twelve centuries back, he found the original city in a ruinous state, which he partly rebuilt and named Fostat. It stands on the bank of the Nile, about a mile from Cairo, the intervening space being occupied by gardens, plantations, and villas, and is now reduced to a very small place, containing a few good houses, and a harbour for vessels from Upper Egypt. The Mosque built by Amer in 653, being the first erected in Egypt, is still a fine building, and there are also the remains of a large fortress, in which the three Roman Legions forming the garrison of Upper Egypt, were garrisoned ; it is now occupied by a village of Christian Copts, and a Greek Convent. An apart¬ ment, or rather vault beneath the Coptic church, is said to have formed part of the house in which Joseph and Mary with the infant Jesus resided, during the flight into Egypt. A large building, used at present to contain corn, paid as tax to the Pasha, is called Joseph’s granary, and is said to have been one of the Patriarch’s seven stores. Near Fostat is a palace belonging to Ibrahim Pasha, the Kasr-el-Ainee or school of medicine founded by Mehemit, and a college belonging to that singular sect, the turning Dervises. No. 7 .—Town of Gezeeh. The town of Gezeeh, from which the Pyramids derive their present name, is situated on the banks of the river opposite to Fostat. It was formerly a large place, the summer resort of many of the inhabitants of Cairo, especially the Memlook Chiefs, but is now of but little note, excepting for the Pasha’s Cavalry College, and fine riding school under the direction of Colonel Warin ; and for an establishment for raising vast numbers of poultry by artificial heat. No. 8.— Rhoda. A beautiful little island, deriving its name from the vast number and beauty of the roses that grow upon it. Ibrahim Pacha has here a fine palace, and extensive gardens, partly laid out in the English and French styles by Mr. Trail, who was sent for that purpose by the London Horticultural Society. At the southern extremity of the island are some Government powder mills; also the Nilometer, for ascertaining the daily rise of the Nile. It consists of a lofty octangular pillar of a single block of yellowish marble, said to be 900 years old, on which is a graduated scale, numbered, so that at the period of the annual rise of the river, its daily advance may be publicly announced by the four official criers in the streets of Cairo. When the water has attained a given point, the embankment at the mouth of the Calish canal of the city, is cut with much ceremony, and the water allowed to flow over the adjacent land, llhoda is celebrated, in sacred history, as the spot where Thermuthis, the daughter of Pharoah, found the infant Moses, floating in a cradle of rushes. The British Indian army, under General Baird, 3000 strong, were encamped on the island in 1801. No. 9 .—The Nile. Apart from the many associations which scripture affords in reference to the Nile, it is one ot the most interesting objects of natural history. It is the noblest river of the old world, and flows the extraordinary length of 1350 nautical miles without receiving one tributary stream, that is, from the Ilakin Nubia, to its mouth‘in the Mediterranean ; an instance, as Humboldt has remarked, unexampled in the hydrograpliicjiistory of the woild. It flows from the south with a broad and ample course, and passes Cairo from left to right, at the rate ot about three miles an hour. Opposite the city, it is about a quai ter of a mile broadband is divided into two branches, by Rhoda and several other small islands. During its whole course it is bordered on both sides by cultivated fields of its own creation, intermixed with villages, groves, and gardens, extending, more or less, fiom it, as the nature of the ground permits. The Nile is well known to be remarkable for an annual rise of its waters, to a great extent, to which Egypt owes its feitility, if not its existence, very little, if any, rain ever falling; it is not, therefore, 9 surprising, that the ancient Egyptians, not only deified, but worshipped their river. The copious summer rains which prevail in the mountains of Abyssinia, and the neigh¬ bourhood, begin to show their effects on the river about the period of the summer solstice, when the waters beginning to encrease, are tinged with green, and subsequently with red, by the earth brought down. By the autumnal equinox, the greatest height is attained, which is about twenty-five feet, the canals are then full, and the cultivated country is inundated ; the water being strongly impregnated with the rich soil washed down, a copious deposit is thus annually spread over the fields. It is extraordinary with what regularity these phenomena occur, both as to time and the exact height of the rise, indeed, were it otherwise, the results would be very fatal, as in 1829, when the river rising a few feet more than usual, 30,000 people were drowned, and an immense deal of property destroyed. No. 15.— Boulak. The Latopolis of the ancients. Formerly an island, but the channel which divided it from the main land having been filled up, it has become the port of Cairo, from which it is about twomiles. Itisatpresentalarge and populous suburb,daily increasingin wealth and importance,and containsthe Custom House,and many good houses belonging to merchants and others ; but the encreasing number of foundries, and manufactories, with their insepa¬ rable accompaniment of noise, smoke, and dirty artizans, will soon render it anything but a pleasant residence. The population is said to number nearly 20,000. A large handsome building on a hill, is the palace of the late Ismael Pasha, who was treacher¬ ously burned to death a few years back in the province of Slienay. It is a fine building, combining the Italian, Greek, and Asiatic styles, and is now the college for architecture, mechanics, drawing, and surveying. This, as well as most of the other schools, was established for the Pasha by Mr. Galloway (now created a Bey), brother to a British merchant of the same name at Alexandria. In front of Boulak is the small island Guaranteh, which forms the harbour. The road from Cairo is beautifully planted, and is lined with mansions and villas, and the whole space from the Nile to Cairo, between Boulak and Fostat, which was formerly encumbered by unsightly mounds of foul rubbish, has been formed into promenades and drives within the last few years, by M. Bonfort, at the expense of Ibrahim Pasha; the mounds have been levelled, roads and paths cut in all directions, trees of various kinds planted, and ornamental seats erected, the whole being properly irrigated, forms delightful prome¬ nades. Ibrahim is said to have, in various parts of Egypt, at least 10,000 men in his pay, employed in works of ornament or utility, under the direction of M. Bonfort. No. 17 .—Mosque el Moaiud. A very handsome Mosque, erected between the years 1412 and 1420. It stands close to the gate named Bab Zooayleh; which with the two very elegant minarets that rise above it, is a noble specimen of eastern architecture. Before the quarter connecting this part of the city to the Citadel was erected, this was one of the principal gates, but it now stands in the midst of buildings. The junction of four streets that meet here, is one of the places assigned for beheading Moslem culprits. Christians and Jews, whose blood would defile the sword, are hanged in the Frank quarter. No. 18 .—The Delta. The Delta is a considerable tract of country, of a triangular shape, and of extreme fertility, from its swampy nature, being intersected by branches of the Nile in all directions. It was called by the Greeks, Delta, from its resemblance to that letter A in their alphabet. It is formed by the two main branches of the Nile, the Damietta and the Rosetta, the Mediterranean sea forming the base, where it is nearly 1 GO miles in breadth. The whole Delta is supposed by Herodotus to have been formed by the argillaceous mud brought down from Ethiopia, or the interior of Africa, it being very black and fat earth, quite different from the sandy soil of Libya on the one side, and the clay and stones of Arabia on the other. About four miles below the southern point, is the spot where the works for the proposed Barrage or Dam, a great and important work, have been commenced, for the purpose of retaining the waters, for the more complete irrigation of the country. 10 No. 19 .—Mosque El Ghoree. One of the most lofty and handsome of the Mosques of Cairo. It stands at the extremity of the large bazaar of the same name, and from its position is one of the most picturesque objects in the city. The Tomb of El Ghoree, who was the last but one of the Memlook sovereigns, stands on the opposite side of the street, and is a very hand¬ some structure ; he was killed near Aleppo, in 1517, and although he has three tombs in Cairo, neither of them contain his body. No. 21.— Shoobra. A small village about four miles north of Cairo, where the Pasha has a fine palace on the banks of the Nile, to which he is very partial. The extensive gardens have been extremely well laid out by a Scotch gardener, and are adorned with temples, kiosks, fountains, &c. Near the palace are spacious stables, in which are kept the greater part of the Pasha’s fine and numerous stud. From Shoobra to the citadel, a road has been constructed, which being raised above the inundation of the Nile, can be travelled at all limes. It is more than one hundred feet in width, and is bordered on each side by fine trees, which afford an agreeable shade. No. 22 .—Mosque of the Morostan. This Mosque, as well as the Morostan or mad-house in which it stands, was built by the Sultan Kalaoon, in the short space of thirteen months, with materials principally brought from the Pyramids. The Morostan was founded 1287, and is at present the only establishment of the kind in Egypt. It is much to be regretted that the treatment of the unfortunate lunatics is neither wise nor humane; indeed the most revolting cruelties are permitted, their cells are left in the most disgusting state of filth, and are open on one side in all weathers, they are confined by chains, are nearly without clothing, and were it not for benevolent individuals who take them food, would soon die of starvation from the inadequate allowance provided. No. 23 .—Mosque of the Sultan Berkooh. A grand and imposing building, erected in the 12th century. It is adorned with Arabesque carving, with all the grace of Arabic fancy. Attached to the Mosque is the tomb of the Sultan’s wife, and daughter, the Princess Fatima, where a finely illuminated copy of the Koran is preserved, said to have been entirely written by the latter. The Sultan himself was buried in one of the tombs of the Memlook Kings. No. 24 .—Mosque of the Sultan Kalaoon. A very fine Mosque, erected by the amiable founder of the Morostan or mad-house, which it joins. He was the first of the Kalaooneeh, a division of the Baharite dynasty, and died 1290. His tomb, which is very elegant, as well as that of his son Naser Mohammed, forms part of the same mass of buildings. No. 25.— Walls. The present Saracenic embattled walls, with occasional towers, were erected by Saladin. Many of the stones bear ancient inscriptions, evidently proving that they were plundered from Heliopolis, Memphis, and other cities. A portion of the original wall of bricks still exists, at a part called the Boorg-e-Ziffr, or Tower of Filth. No. 27.— Ruined Fort. This small and now ruined fort, was erected by the French, during the time they had possession of Cairo, as were several others in similar positions, since destroyed. It is built on one of the extraordinary mounds which were formerly seen in all directions round the city, most of which, have been levelled or removed by the Pasha. From the remnants of pottery and other articles found in them, they appear to have been entirely formed of rubbish from the streets. 11 No. 28 .—Mosque of Ayed Bey. A handsome structure, but presenting no remarkable feature; indeed the general plan of all the larger Mosques, with but very few exceptions, is the same; consisting of a large open court surrounded by porticos, with a tank or fountain in the centre for ablution. On the eastern side, that which faces Mecca, the portico is larger, and has three or four rows of columns, generally separated from the court by a wall or partition. This is the place of prayer, and is thus arranged : on the eastern or outer wall, is the niche which marks the direction of Mecca, where the Iman prays on Fridays, the Mahomedan sabbath; to the right of it is the pulpit, and immediately in front, a small platform, supported on pillars, and surrounded by a parapet, before which are one or two seats, and the desk from which the Koran is read. The walls are generally white¬ washed, and have but little decoration, the lower parts are sometimes mosaic work. The domes of some are much ornamented, and have suspended within them, many lamps and other votive offerings. No. 30 .—Tomb of the Sultan Berkook. One of the largest of the tombs, and in tolerable preservation. It forms a spacious square, on one side of which is a vaulted room, inlaid with various coloured marbles, in which repose the remains of the Sultan; on the other is a Mosque with a dome and minaret elegantly carved. No. 32 .—Tombs of the Caliphs. The immense size of the Cemeteries in Mahometan countries, is remarkable, they are not unfrequently even larger than the cities to which they belong : arising from the simple fact, that a grave is never a second time disturbed. There are several in the suburbs of Cairo, equally large with the present, which is called after the Memlook sovereigns, from the circumstance of several of their tombs being in it, some of them large handsome buildings, with Mosques and schools attached ; all, however, in a state of decay. Many of the other tombs are built in fantastic forms ; some are covered by small cupolas, and the remainder are merely flat stones, with a small pillar, on which is a turban or other mark of distinction. All seem falling to decay, in consequence of the extinction or poverty of the families to which they belong, and when thus abandoned, the poor people convert them into dwellings, or carry away the stones to construct huts in other places. No. 33 .—Mosque El Juyooshee. Erected 1094, by the Emeer El Juyoosh, Chief Minister and General to the Caliph El Mustansir. On the mountain above the Mosque, numerous small chambers are excavated, originally used as catacombs, but at a later period as dwellings; several have Arabic inscriptions on their walls. No. 34 .—Mohhattam Mountains. Part of the Arabian chain, which follows the course of the Nile to Upper Egypt, and terminates at the Red Sea. At Cairo it is about 400 feet in height, and perfectly barren ; the extensive quarries visible on its sides, have, according to Herodotus, fur¬ nished the materials for many of the cities of Egypt, and, indeed, they appear sufficient to have built at least one hundred, with as little stone in them, as Cairo or Memphis. There are also many singular caves aud excavations in various parts, especially one called Kahf-es-Sadeh, near the highest point, it was formed, and steps cut in the rock to ascend to it, about the year 421 of the Hegira, but for what purpose is not known. No. 36 .—Road to Suez. The distance across the Desert,in a direct line to Suez, is about seventy-three miles; but by the route usually travelled, eighty-four. A few years back crossing the Desert, was a task of considerable danger and difficulty, and occupied two or three days, but the case is now altered, travellers from or bound to India by the overland passage, find 12 such convenient arrangements made, that, however delicate or enfeebled in health, they are transported across in a few hours, with almost all the comforts usually found on an ordinary European road. Every ten or twelve miles there are stations, where the horses are changed, three of which deserve the name of inns, especially the central one, forty-one miles from Cairo ; a large and handsome hotel, with numerous bed¬ rooms, and accommodations of all kinds. The conveyances are omnibusses with four horses, carrying six or eight persons ; two-wheeled vans covered, drawn by two horses, and holding four persons; donkey chairs slung on poles between two donkeys; saddle- horses, asses, &c. The heavy baggage is carried by dromedaries. The omnibusses travel through the loose sand at about four miles an hour. The transit administration was established by the Pasha, who has the entire transmission of mails, passengers, &c., in his own hands, and the passage to India through Egypt, is now a matter of small difficulty ; excellent steamers are established on the Mahmoodeh Canal, from Alexandria to Atfe, and from thence by the Nile to Cairo. And from Suez, the boats of the East India Company, and the Oriental Steam Navigation Company, await the mails. No. 38.— Citadel. A Fortress of considerable size, erected on a projecting point of the Mokkattam mountains, 200 feet above the city, which it completely commands, and towards which it is strongly fortified. It was erected towards the close of the 12th Century, by the illustrious and chivalrous Saladin, the successful opponent of Richard Cceur de Lion, and Philip Augustus, and has been strengthened and improved at various periods, especially by the French, and the present Pasha. The latter has erected within it a fine palace and harem, where he generally resides, which is both splendid and capacious, combining the magnificence of the East, with the luxuries of Europe. The state apartments have triple plate-glass windows to keep out the sand, the ceilings are painted in fresco, looking glasses from France, marbles from Italy, and carpets from England, are amongst the decorations, and the furniture and hangings, including the English state bed, are of cloth of gold embossed with tulips and roses, in purple and green velvet. The hall of audience is a noble apartment, 150 feet by 120, paved with marble. At the southern extremity of the Citadel, the Pasha has erected a Mosque, that in some respects is the most superb edifice in the world; for, not only are the various columns of massive oriental alabaster, of a delicate flesh colour, transparant as wax, but the whole of the walls are completely encrusted with the same costly material. The fine Minaret is visible, as is also that belonging to the ruined Mosque of Saladin, also the remains of the same monarch’s palace adjacent, in which a weaving manufactory has been established by the Pasha. Near the same spot is the celebrated well of Joseph, a work attributed to the early Egyptians, but cleaned and repaired by Saladin, whose name it bears. It is cut in the solid rock, is 42 feet in circumference, and 280 in depth, with a gallery winding round from top to bottom. The Mint, Hall of Justice, and other public offices, are also in the Citadel,—all plain, white buildings, without ornament. From the principal gate of the Citadel, a narrow rocky street leads to the Roumelia square; this was the spot where the powerful Beys and leaders of the Memlooks to the number of 470 met their well-deserved, but awfully sudden death, by the treachery of the Pasha in 1811, two of the number only escaping, one by feigning death, the other, Emin Bey, by the extraordinary spirit of his horse, which leaped a wall seven feet high, at a place where the abyss formed by the rock, is at least 84 feet in depth; the noble animal broke its neck, but its master was unhurt, and was able to conceal himself from his pursuers. No. 41 .—Mosque of Ahmed JEbn Taloon. This Mosque, said to have been built on the plan of the Kaaba of Mecca, is the oldest in Cairo, having been founded ninety years before any other part of the city, that is about 879. It is not remarkable for its beauty, but highly interesting from proving the existence of the pointed arch at that early period. The minaret is also curious. An ancient Arabic MS. gives a curious account of this part of the mountain. “ Pha- roah used to ascend to this spot to pray, and here lighted fires of Tamarisk, Frankin¬ cense, and Sardarac, as signals to his people. Judah, the brother of our lord Joseph, when he came into Egypt, also ascended the mountain, and prayed at Pharoah’s altar. 13 When Ahmed Ebn Taloon heard that Judah was buried here, lie raised a tomb or mosque on the spot to his memory, and is said to have found a vast treasure beneath the altar, which defrayed the expense.” This portion of the mountain was not added to the city until a later period, and it is now called the Mount of the Ram, from an idle tra¬ dition which marks the spot as the place where Abraham sacrificed the Ram—also as the place where Noah’s Ark rested. No. 44 .—Dancing Girls. The Ghawa’zee, or public dancing girls, once so celebrated in Cairo for their beauty, the richness of their dresses, and their extraordinary performances, are no longer per¬ mitted to exhibit within the city, under very severe penalties. This singular tribe, for they are a distinct tribe, are, however, still to be found in the vicinity, and on public festivals make their appearance, and exhibit their wild and lascivious dances. No. 46 .—The Shiekh of the Camel. The procession of pilgrims from Cairo to the rendezvous, about eleven from the city, of the great annual Hh’agg, or caravan of pilgrims to Mecca, was formerly conducted with much pomp and splendour, but has latterly fallen off" both in numbers and show. Early in the day, the various persons who take part in it assemble in the Meidan, and Roumelia, and being joined by a military escort from the citadel, quit the city by the gate of Victory, passing through the cemetery towards the desert. The escort consists of about 500 irregular cavalry who go the whole distance, and a body of regular infantry with music, who guard the Mahhmil to the rendezvous. The pilgrims ride on camels and horses, and a vast number of camels and dromedaries convey baggage, skins of water, provisions, &c., and others are decorated with little flags, green boughs, &c., acting as a reserve to replace those who die from fatigue. The Emeer el Hh’agg, or chief of the pilgrims, is borne in his litter between two camels, and the Kisweh, or covering for the Ka’abeh of the Temple, which is annually presented by the Pasha, and the treasure for the journey, are conveyed amongst his baggage. Several Dervises also accompany the pilgrims, incessantly repeating prayers, rolling their heads about, and performing other devotional acts. One in particular, who rides a huge camel, from which he is called the Shiekh of the Camel, lias accompanied the pilgrims for many years ; he wears scarcely any clothing, and rolls his head round without intermission in a most extraordinary manner; he is supplied by the Government with two camels, and provisions for the journey. No. 47 .—The Mahhmil. The Mahhmil, an emblem of royalty, is a species of litter, with a splendid covering of black brocade, embroidered in gold and colours, with fringe, tassels, balls, &c., the decorations representing the Temple of Mecca, the Pasha’s cypher, and passages from the Koran. It is entirely empty, but two copies of the Koran, one in roll, the other bound in a volume, are attached to the top. It is borne by the finest and tallest camel that can be selected, who is generally indulged with exemption from labour for the rest of his life. No. 49 .—Ladies riding. The asses of Cairo, even those for hire, are lineal descendants of Sprightly, in the Arabian Nights, handsome fine-sized animals, capable of enduring great fatigue; the saddle is very high, of party-coloured leather, and has a very large pommel, the stir¬ rups and bridle are half European. Ladies ride astride, in the manner of men; and although so completely enveloped in their ample garments as to be nearly powerless, gallop through the crowded streets at a great rate. No. 50 .—A Demise. Dervises of the Rifa’ee and Sa’adee sects, attend all religious processions and cere¬ monies, exhibiting various extraordinary deceptions; pretending to cut their flesh with knives, and in some cases, in their wild enthusiasm, really to thrust iron spikes, swords, and nails, into their eyes and various parts of their bodies; also to hold lighted rags dipped in oil under their arm-pits, and to handle, and even eat, venemous serpents. 14 No. 51 .—A Descendant of Mahomet. All persons claiming descent from the Prophet, have the privilege of wearing green. Copts and Jews are restricted to dark colours. The upper classes of Mahomedans wear full cloth trowsers, with a loose coat usually embroidered; the middle classes retain the full trowsers, yellow slippers, and flowing robe of divers colours, with a thick girdle of cashmere, and a gaudy scarf twisted two or three times round the waist. The Fez, or cap of red cloth, here called Turboosh, is generally worn. No. 52.— Sack’cka Shur’beh. The water of the wells of Cairo being slightly brackish, numbers obtain a livelihood by supplying the inhabitants with water from the Nile. It is conveyed in skins on camels and asses, and at times by the Sack’cka himself, who, for a skin-full, brought a mile and a-half or two miles, obtains only a sum equal in value to a penny. The Sack’cka Shur’beh supplies the passengers in the streets by means of small bowls of brass, or earthenware. Other water-sellers carry the cooling beverage in large earthen jars, in the mouth of which they place a sprig of some flowering shrub, and slightly flavour the water with rose water. No. 53 .—Ibrahim Pasha. The eldest son of Mehemit, who has played so conspicuous a part in the affairs of the East, especially in Greece and Syria. He is familiar to most persons, from his visit to London in the summer of 1846. No. 54 .—Mehemit Ali. One of the most extraordinary persons that figure in Mahomedan history: he was born at Cavella in Iloumelia, in 1769, the same year that produced two equally remarkable men, Napoleon Buonaparte, and the Duke of Wellington. Losing his father in early life, he became a sub-collector of taxes, and a dealer in tobacco, a trade in which he met with some success. When the French invaded Egypt, he commanded a contingent from his native place, and behaved with so much valour, that he obtained the approval of the Capitan Pasha. His advance was now rapid, he was shortly made a Pasha, and at no great distance of time, constituted Viceroy of Egypt. His unlimited ambition, which led him to annihilate his dangerous rivals the Memlooks, and to throw off his allegiance to the Porte, and the subsequent interference of the European powers, are subjects too well known to be dwelt upon. He has now turned his atten¬ tion to the improvement of his country, and, under his care, Egypt is approaching a state of civilization long unknown. In person Mehemit is short and rather corpulent, with a high forehead, aquiline nose, and an intellectual expression of countenance ; his dress is studiously plain, and his attendants few, being in general only the officers of his household. LOUDON: PRINTED E Y T. BB.ETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAY MARKET* THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY, COMPRISING )c liartftenon, MONUMENT OF PHILOPAPPUS, iE 6 E A N SKA, AND ALL THE ADJACENT IN THE UPPER CIRCLE, $53 a Hieto Of THE GREAT BATTLE OF SOBRAON, AND VICTORY OVER THE SIKHS, COMPRISING THE ENTRY OF THE umii mm fii THE TOTAL DEFEAT AND ROUT OF THE ENEMY, AND THEIR FLIGHT ACROSS THE SUTLEJ. THE GENTLEMAN’S REAL HEAD OF HAIR, OR INVISIBLE VENTILATING PERUKE, Is so close a resemblance to Na¬ ture, as to defy detection; and to enable Gentlemen to see the ef¬ fect, a large assortment is always kept for inspection, any one o which, if approved of, saves the purchaser both time and trouble. These elegant specimens of the Perruquean art, superior to any to be obtained elsewhere, either in Paris or London, have only to be seen to be admired, and are the sole invention of Ross and Sons, 119 and 120, Bishopsgate Street, London. Ross and Sons’ infallible mode to Measure the Head. Round the Head in manner of a Inchs fillet, leaving the ears loose, 1 to 1 From the Forehead over to the r pole as deep each way as required 2 to 2 From Ear to Ear across the Fore¬ head close down to the point level with the Whisker 3 to 3 For SCALPS or Partial Baldness. From the front as far forward as required to the hair behind. 1 to 1 From one side to the other across the Forehead as far as bald. 2 Across the Crown or Riseof Head TO THE LADIES.—It is universally acknowledged by every one of taste, that however beautiful a woman may be, if her hair is deficient either in quantity, quality, or colour, one of her greatest charms is wanting. A complete remedy for all this is to be found by visiting the Establishment of Ross and Sons, and choosing either head¬ dresses that surpass Nature herself, fronts, bands, or ringlets that assist her, or splendid plaits that, encircling the thin hair, give it all the appearance of a luxuriant growth. The partings are so admirably contrived that the nearest inspection is confounded; the transparency of the web, admitting the skin of the head to be seen through, they may be described as being as light as a feather. Address Ross and Sons, 119 and 120, Bishopsgate Street, London, who have lately invented the Depinguitory for cleaning the skin partings of fronts, &c. Splendid arrangement of looking glass, producing the effect of a long arcade, and so bewildering as to cause a doubt whether you are in London or in Old Rome— “ Arch follows arch, and pile succeeds to pile.” This unique apartment is devoted to Cutting and Arranging the Hair in, and, with another having a beautiful View of Naples, are on the ground floor. In calling attention to their establishment, Ross and Sons beg to notice the advantages of their system—viz. they never take apprentices nor young men from the country, nor object to customers asking for the same man to wait upon them. Every person has clean brushes, they never being used twice without being washed; and parties are not pressed to buy things they do not want. Address, Ross and Sons, 119 and 120, Bishopsgate Street. THE ATRAPILATORY, or LIQUID HAIR DYE is the only dye that really an¬ swers for all colors, and does not require re-doing, but as the hair grows, as it never fades nor acquires that unnatural red or purple tint common to all other dyes. ROSS and SONS can, with the greatest confidence, recommend the above dye as infallible, if done at their establishment; and ladies or gentlemen requiring it, are requested to bring a friend or servant with them, to see how it is used, which will enable them to do it afterwards without the chance of failure. Several private apartments devoted entirely to the above purpose, and some of their establishment having used it, the effect produced can be at once seen. They think it necessary to add, that by attending strictly to the instructions given with each bottle of dye, numerous persons have succeeded equally well without coming to them. Address Ross & Sons, 119 and 120, Bishopsgate Street, the celebrated perruquiers, perfumers, hair cutters, and hair dyers. N.B.—Parties attended at their own residence, whatever the distance. BOTANIC WATER & BEAR’S GREASE.—When the hair is becoming thin, and falling off, the only effectual remedy, besides shaving the head, is the use of the two above-named articles, applied alternately; the Botanic Water to cleanse the roots from scurf, and as a stimulant; and the Bear’s Grease as a nourisher. If any further evi¬ dence was required of the virtues of Bear’s Grease, for renovating and preserving the hair, Mr. Catlin’s account of the quantity used, and the length of hair obtained by some of the North American Indians, would be a sufficient answer. Ross and Sons, 119 and 120, Bishopsgate Street, who first introduced the use of Bear's Grease in this country, and who fat and kill the animals, recommend the public to purchase none other but with their names and address printed on the pot, or the chances are their obtaining a spurious article. All vegetable oils applied to-the hair are worse than useless. THE NEW TOOTH BRUSH, Made on the most scientific principles, thoroughly cleaning between the teeth when used up and down, and polishing the surface when used crossways. This brush so entirely enters between the closest teeth, that the inventors have decided upon naming it the Tooth¬ pick Brush. Therefore ask for it under that name, marked and numbered as under, viz. full-sized brushes, marked T. P. W. No. 1, hard: No. 2, less hard: No. 3, middling: No. 4, soft: the narrower brushes, marked T. P. N. No. 5, hard: No. 6, less hard: No. 7, middling: No. 8, soft. These inimitable brushes are only to be had at ROSS & SONS, 119 & 120, Bishopsgate Street; and they warrant the hair never to come out: at Is. each, or 10s. per doz. in bone: and 2s. each, or 21s. per dozen in ivory. 7 CARPETS, CABINET FURNITURE, AND BEDDING, 14, LEICESTER SQUARE, one door from the Panorama. MESSES. HAMPTON & RUSSELL Beg most respectfully to inform the Nobility, Gentry, and Public, that they have now ready for the approaching season a LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL STOCK OF CABINET FURNITURE, all made of the best and soundest materials, which can he warranted, and as regards price, for style and quality, cannot be surpassed, if equalled, by jany establishment. H. & R. particularly intimate to parties requiring BRUSSELS CARPETS, that they have several hundred pieces of the very best quality, consigned to them by an eminent manufacturer, at a great sacrifice, owing to the bad state of trade, which are to be sold, all at 3s. 6