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RECOLLECTIONS 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR 
 
 THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF 
 
 GREECE, TURKEY, AND ITALY, 
 
 MADE IN THE YEARS 1818 & 1819. 
 
 BY PETER EDMUND LAURENT. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH COLOURED PLATES. 
 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 PRINTED FOR G. AND W. B. WHITTAKER, AVE -MARIA-LANE. 
 
 1S21. 
 
Oxford, printed by Munday and Slatter. 
 
TO MRS. STRICKLAND 
 
 OF COKETHORPE PARK NEAR OXFORD 
 
 THESE PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED 
 
 AS A FEEBLE TRIBUTE 
 
 OF THE AUTHOR'S LASTING GRATITUDE. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2012 with funding from 
 
 Research Library, The Getty Research Institute 
 
 http://archive.org/details/recollectionsofcOOIaur 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 IT has more than once been observed, that the narratives of tra- 
 vellers, accurately describing the objects they have seen, and faith- 
 fully relating the accidents which have befallen them, cannot fail to 
 be, if not instructive, at least amusing. I hope this circumstance 
 will be regarded as a sufficient excuse for the publication of the fol- 
 lowing Recollections. To detail the other private motives which urged 
 me to print them, would be both uninteresting and unnecessary. 
 
 I had long felt a great desire of visiting those spots in Italy 
 and Greece, which the genius and industry of the ancients have ren- 
 dered so celebrated. In the design of executing that interesting 
 project, I quitted Oxford some weeks before the long vacation of 
 the year 1818 ; two members of the University accompanied me : 
 the classical acquirements of those gentlemen, and the patient good 
 humour with which they bore the hardships and fatigues of our 
 journey, contributed to render them most useful and pleasing fellow- 
 travellers. We passed over the Alps by the Mount Cenis road : 
 crossing Piedmont and the fertile vale of Lombardy, through the 
 towns of Turin, Milan, Mantua, Verona, Vicenza, we arrived at 
 Venice: from this last city we proceeded to Trieste, where, after 
 making an excursion to the ruins of Pola, we embarked for Con- 
 stantinople. During the voyage up the Archipelago we were much 
 retarded by contrary winds : this gave us an opportunity of seeing 
 several of the islands in the iEgean sea, and enabled us to visit the 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 Trojan plain and the probable site of Ilium. Dreading to face the 
 plague, which raged in the northern provinces of Greece, we re- 
 embarked at Constantinople for Athens. Thence we passed into the 
 Peloponnesus : we saw the remains of Corinth, Sicyon, Nemea, 
 Cleonee, Argos, Tegea, Man tinea, Sparta, Megalopolis, Messene, 
 Phigalia, Olympia, Patrse : at Patrae we embarked for the Ionian 
 Islands ; thence we passed into Italy. We touched at Otranto, 
 Brindisi, Barletta, and returned homeward through Naples, Rome, 
 and Florence. 
 
 Such is a hasty sketch of our tour, during the whole of which it 
 was my custom to note in the evening the different occurrences of 
 the day. This volume consists of extracts from my journal, relating 
 more particularly to Turkey and Greece. 
 
 As to preserve truth is my main object, I have done little more 
 than alter some errors of diction which were detected in a perusal 
 of my original descriptions. 
 
 Although I have not thought proper to divide my book into 
 fictitious letters, various reasons have induced me to adopt the style 
 consecrated to epistolary composition, the ease and freedom of 
 which seem peculiarly fitted to books of amusement. 
 
 P. E. L. 
 
 OXFORD, APRIL 19th, 1821. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 TRIESTE. 
 
 Page 
 Departure from Venice — Custom-House Officers — Accident at Sea — Arrival at Trieste — 
 Health Office— Description of Trieste — Historical Sketch of the Town — Manners of the 
 Inhabitants — Death of Winckelmann — Price of Provisions — Neighbourhood of the 
 Town --------- 1 
 
 POLA. 
 
 Departure from Trieste in a Felucca— Arrival at Pola— Observations on the Plague— De- 
 scription of the Monuments of Pola — Anecdote of Ariosto — Ancient and Modern State 
 of Pola— Language spoken in Dalmatia and the adjoining Isles— Return to Trieste- 
 Embarkation — Storm in the Port — Commence the Voyage ----- 7 
 
 ADRIATIC. 
 
 Descending the Adriatic Gulf— Description of the Morlacs— Illyrian Seamen— Different 
 Modes of Hailing at Sea — Entrance of the Ionian Sea— Corfu, Paxos, Cephalonia — 
 Flying Fish— Zante, the Strophades, the Lover's Leap— Cerigo— Entrance of the Archi- 
 pelago — Pirates — A Hermit in one of the Islands — Calms — Etesian Gales - - 12 
 
 ZEA (CEOS.) 
 
 Arrival at Ceos — First View of the Port — Consul — Description of the Island — The Town — 
 The Invention of Silk — The Cattle fed on Bushes — The Churches — The Dress of the 
 Islanders ; their Manners — The British Vice-Consul ; his Family and Establishment — 
 Government of the Island — Price of Provisions — Simonides — Departure from Zea - 18 
 
 SCIO (CHIOS.) 
 
 Arrival at Scio — Description of the Country — A Turkish Church-Yard — Productions and 
 Exports of the Island — Mastic Trees — -Literature is cultivated in the Island — The Monas- 
 tery of St. Minas — Antiquities of the Island — A Turkish Frigate — Observations on the 
 Navy — Food of the Inhabitants — Cultivation of the Vine and Fig — Caprification — His- 
 torical Sketch of the Island — Account of Mezzomorto ------ 2i 
 
 TROAS. 
 
 Lesbos— Troas— Vast Ruins— Threshing of Corn— Description of the Ruins— The Inhabi- 
 tants — Solymaneh — Tenedos— Mount Athos - 38 
 
Vili CONTENTS. 
 
 ILIUM AND THE TROIC PLAIN. 
 
 Page 
 Opinion of the Ancients on the Site of Troy — Discovery of Le Chevalier — The Scenery de- 
 scribed — Landing — Description of the Shore — Bounar-bàshi — Scamander — Its Warm 
 Springs _--.-..--..--- 44 
 
 THE HELLESPONT. 
 
 Entrance to the Hellespont — Coasts of Asia and Europe — Turkish Soldiers — Maida — Bat- 
 teries — Sestos — Asiatic Dardanelles — Gallipoli — Lampsacus — Storm — Sea of Marmora — 
 Mount Rhodope — St. Stephen's — Constantinople ------- 51 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Appearance of the Town — Cannon — Seraglio — Description of the Fort — Interior of Calata 
 and Pera — Ambassadors' Houses — Italian Inns — Languages — Plague — Origin of the 
 name Stimboli — The Town — Mosques — St. Sophia — Cupolas — Ezan — Muezzin — Na- 
 niaz or Prayer — Public Schools — Private Houses — Bazars — Fires in Constantinople — 
 Baths — Antiquities of Constantinople — Seraglio — Society — Smoking — Coffee-Houses — 
 Food — Turkish Character — Armenians — Greeks — Jews — Franks - - - - 59 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Embarkation — Dardanelles — English Merchant Ships — English Sailors — Polacre — Zea — 
 Robbery — Behaviour of the Consul — Inhabitants of Zea - - - - - 78 
 
 PASSAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 Falconer's Shipwreck — Sunium — Sickness — Landing at the Piraeus — Description of the Coun- . 
 try — Convent — Monk — Journey to Athens — Sun-rise — Peasants — Entrance of the 
 Town — Quarantine — Buonaparte — Emperor of Austria — Princess of Wales — Consul — 
 His Family ------.--..--81 
 
 ATHENS. 
 
 The French Consul — Temple of the Eight Winds — Teke — Dervichs — Poikile — Kislar Aga 
 — Vaivode — Agora — Temple of Theseus — Tweddell — Death of an English Traveller — 
 Areopagus — Pnyx — Philopappos — Museum — Theatre of Bacchus — Lanthom of Demos- 
 thenes — Capucin Monastery — Adrian's Arch — Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Turkish 
 Games — Choragic Monument of Thrasyllus — Odeum — Various Opinions of Antiquaries 
 — Greek Wedding ---87 
 
 ACROPOLIS, or ASTU. 
 
 Ascent to the Citadel — Pausanias' Description — Modern State of the Citadel — Propylea — 
 Phengetes — Parthenon — Comparison between the Grecian and the Gothic Architectures 
 — State of the Ruins of the Temple — Temple of Neptune Erectheus — Portico of the 
 
C0NTENT8. j x 
 
 Page 
 Pandroseon — Caryatides — Their Invention — Temple of Minerva Polias — Disdar-Aga — 
 Expences of Visiting the Acropolis — Lord Elgin — English Travellers ... 100 
 
 MODERN ATHENIANS. 
 
 Features — Shaving — Dress — Females — Superstition — Conversation»— Education — Society of 
 the OlAOMOYSfiN — Albanians — Their Dress — Their Manners - ' - - - - 111 
 
 VICINITY OF ATHENS. 
 
 Horses — Marathon — Mount Anchesmus — Jevisà — Village of Marathon — Plain — Vranà — 
 Marsh — Tumuli — Convent on Mount Pentelicus — Quarries — Honey — Pausanias' De- 
 scription of Marathon — Return to Athens — Eleusis — Daphne — Sacred Way—Salamis — 
 Ruins at Eleusis — Present State — Mount Hymettus — Lyceum— Ilissus Stadium — Ketch- 
 bashi — Ascent — View from the Summit of Hymettus — Return to Athens - 118 
 
 EPIDAURUS. 
 
 Departure from Athens-— Harbour of Piraeus — Embarkation— Saronic Gulf — Egina— Epi- 
 daurus — Mills — Lygurio — Vintage — Mode of making Wine — Ruins — Theatre— ^-De- 
 scription of the Ancient Precinct — Snakes -_._.... jog 
 
 TYRINTHUS AND NAUPLIA. 
 
 Janissaries — Their Pay — Road from Lygurio to Nauplia — Palamedi— State of Nauplia — 
 The Citadel — Situation of the Town — Tyrinthus — Cyclopean Masonry — Galleries — 
 Road to Argos — Gipsies — Their Language ----... . 135 
 
 ARGOS. 
 
 Situation of the Town — Potteries — Tiles — Sunday — Fair — Coins — Antiquities — Inhabi- 
 tants of Argos — Turkish Hospitality — Food of the Poor — Citadel — View from Larissa — 
 Theatre — Destruction of Monuments --------- jay 
 
 MYCENiE. 
 
 English Tourists — Road to Kravata — The Inachus— -Kravata — Ruins — Change in the face 
 of the Land — Masonry — History of the Town — Atreus' Treasuries — Lord Sligo— Pre- 
 servation of Corn — Gate of the Lions — Walls of the Citadel — Temple of Juno— Sum- 
 mer's Day - - - - - - - - -. -. . . 143 
 
 CORINTH. 
 
 Road from Mycenae to Corinth — Derveni — Khan — Kourtessa — Dervitch — Cleonse— Asopus 
 — Descent to the Isthmus — View— Corinth — Medicine — Aero-Corinth — St. Paul — 
 Pirenian Chambers — Ports of Corinth — House of the Bey — Religious Ceremony — Ovens 150 
 
 NEMEA. 
 
 Journey to the Three Columns— Ridge of the Aero-Corinth— Cleonae— Albanians — Their 
 Language and Dress — Their Houses — Road from Cleonae to Nemea — Ruins — Village 
 of Agios Giorgios — Return to Argos - - . 138 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 TRIPOLITZA. 
 
 Page 
 Horses — Mode of Travelling — Cautions to Travellers— Fount of Erasinus — Site of Lerna — 
 
 Road to Tripolitza — Beautiful Prospect — Reckoning of Time — Daoula — Scala Tou 
 Bey — Plain of Tegea — Arrival at Tripolitza — The Town — Veli, Pasha of Morea — For- 
 tress of the Town — Preparations for War — Presents — Visit to the Pasha - - 162 
 
 TEGEA AND THE BOUNDARY OF LACONIA. 
 
 Country near Tegea — Description of the Ancient Town — Augustus — Pausanias' Defence 
 of that Conqueror — Ruins — Well — Road to Mystra — Kriavrio — Turks — Napoleon — 
 Kravata — Washing — Inhabitants of the Mountains— First View of Mystra and La- 
 conia ..---------- -. 170 
 
 MYSTRA. 
 
 The Castle — Russian Invasion of the Morea — Rout of the Mainiotei — Cruel Treatment of 
 the Inhabitants of Mystra — Description of the Town — Turkish Ports — Government of 
 the Town — Church — Romaic Architecture — Tall Cypress — Dogs of Taygetus — Mulberry 
 Trees — Want of Physicians — Turkish Wedding ... 175 
 
 AMYCLiE. 
 
 Meso Chora — Kata Chora — Portali — Coffee-House — Inscription — Sclavochorio — Amyclae 
 
 Temple of Apollo — Tumulus — Eurotas — Vale of Laconia — Government of Maina — 
 
 Description of the Mainiote Mountaineers — The Mainiotes are probably of Sclavonian 
 Origin 179 
 
 SPARTA. 
 
 Ancient City— Ruins — Theatre— Peasants — Harvest — Road along the Eurotas - - 183 
 
 MEGALOPOLIS. 
 
 Road to Londari — Arbutes and Wild Paars — Londari — Journey to Scinano — Miserable 
 Lodging — Greek Service — Curious Custom of the Women — Stupidity of the Inhabi- 
 tants — Ruins of Megalopolis — Pilfering — Departure ...--. 185 
 
 MAVROMATI (MESSENE.) 
 
 Alpheus — Makryplaia — Territory of Messenia — Khan — Vale of Messenia — A Rich Aga — 
 Indian Fig-trees — Kalamata — Assassination of Teleclus — Vourkano — Monastery — Des- 
 cription of a Greek Convent — Literature — Ruins of Messene — Mount Ithome — Village 
 of Mavromati — Fountain — Return to Vourkano — Pausanias's Description of Messene 190 
 
 PAVLITZA (PHIGALIA.) 
 
 Robbers — Turks — Kukla — Harvest of Velani Acorns — Vlachi — Mount Lyceeus — Ancient 
 Description— Ascent — Beautiful View — Peasants — Scenery — Descent — Romantic Si- 
 
CONTENTS. X1 
 
 Pase 
 tuation of Pavlitza — Inhospitality — Effect of a Firman— Bassae — Description of the 
 
 Temple — Absurd Idea of the Inhabitants ------- 200 
 
 MIRAKA (OLYMPIA.) 
 
 Pass of the Anathema — Greek Curse — Andritzena — Langana — Phtelia — Borders of the 
 Alpheus — Turkish Villages — Government of Lalla — Strophades — Canoes used upon the 
 Alpheus — Ford — Callipatira — Miraka, Antilalla — Remains of Olympia — Hiero, King 
 of Syracuse — Description of the Ancient Grove .----.. 208 
 
 PATRASSO (PATRIE.) 
 
 Departure from Olympia— Coucurra — Attack of the Villagers — Vintage — Pyrgo — Elis — 
 Peneus — Khan — Road to Patrasso — Patrasso — Ancient Town — Cultivation of the Uva 
 Passa — Courban Beiram - - - - - - - - - - -217 
 
 SANTA MAURA (LEUCADIA.) 
 
 Illness — Ithaca — Arrival at Santa Maura — Quarantine — Town — Fort — Ancient City — 
 Canal — Phenomenon of the Wind — Harvest of Olives — Greek School — Mode of Teach- 
 ing — Lover's Leap— Origin of the Name Leucas ------ 223 
 
 CORFU (CORCYRA.) 
 
 Passage to Corfu — Prevesa — Battle near Actium — Parga — Anecdote of Disinterestedness 
 — Entrance into Corfu — Appearance of the Town — Santo Spiridione — Neighbourhood 
 of the Town — Improvements — Language — University of Ithaca — Modern Greek Ex- 
 tracts ----- 228 
 
 THE IONIAN CONSTITUTION. 
 
 Treaty of Paris — Component Parts of the Government — Senate — The Mode of its Election 
 — Its Powers — Legislative Assembly — Its Election — Its Power — Opinions of the 
 Ionians — Their National Character — Liberty of the Press not allowed in the Islands 243 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CORFU. 
 
 Courier — Passage to Otranto — Garrison of Corfu — Embarkation — Strait of Butrinto — Ce- 
 falo, a Species of Fish — Last View of Greece — Storm — Confusion — Fano — Landing at 
 Otranto — Examination by the Health Officers — Perjury of the Crew. - - - 25 
 
 OTRANTO. 
 
 Cruelty of the Turks — Neighbourhood of the Town — Italian Plough — Departure from 
 Otranto— Lecce — General Church — Robbers — Brindisi — Barletta— The Lazaretto - 25.3 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Costituzione degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. Anno Domini, 1817 ... 265 
 
CORRIGENDA. 
 
 Page 7 . . line 8 . . for Venetian Gulf read . • Venetian Gulf and Mediterranean Sea. 
 
 13 8 tuft of hair tuft of hair on the crown. 
 
 14 .... 10 Leucadiae Leucadia. 
 
 18 ... . 11 y.aXois go; y.u'A-'yi^.;. 
 
 20 ... . 27 (now Ceos) (not Ceos.) 
 
 22 .... 12 Negropont the modern name of Eubcea. 
 
 25 .... 23 xa7.i) vpegx, xa,Xi> lampa x.a\ri i/*Épa, y.ctkr, ipitt^v., 
 
 26 18 halahi alahi. 
 
 34 ... . 36 MEICELEH Mesala. 
 
 34 .... 34 Meiceleh Mesala. 
 
 54 ... . 24 hejaz hejab. 
 
 58 ... . 15 Chalcydon Chrysopolis. 
 
 59 .... 5 Nuezzim Mtjezzim. 
 
 64 .... 23 Nuezzins Muezzins |mOj»c J 
 
 67 .... 13 health to you peace to you. 
 
 78.... 4 POLLACO PoLACRE. 
 
 79 .... 11 Pollaco Polacre. 
 
 80 .... 2 SUNIAN SUNIUM. 
 
 91 .... 5 Ptolemey's Ptolemy's. 
 
 96 .... 27 toh rod 
 
 121 . . last line . . Shekem Sheker. 
 
 166 .... 12 it seen it is seen. 
 
 199 ... . 29 there are , they are. 
 
 227 .... 8 limestone, rocks limestone rocks,. 
 
 A hasty perusal of the printed sheets enabled me to detect the above errors. Cetera, to use 
 the words of Reland, facile lector deprehendet quomodo corrigi oporteat, veniameme dabit Uibens 
 (non dubito), si et ipse alkjuando libroni ediderit. 
 
TRIESTE. 
 
 DEPARTURE F110J1 VENrCE — CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICERS — ACCIDENT AT SEA — ARRIVAL AT 
 
 TRIESTE HEALTH OFFICE — DESCRIPTION OF TRIESTE — HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE 
 
 TOWN MANNERS OF THE INHABITANTS DEATH OF WINCKELMANN PRICE OF PRO- 
 VISIONS — NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE TOWN. 
 
 THURSDAY, JULY 9th. 
 
 AT four o'clock we were called by our waterman. Some provi- 
 sions (an article never to be forgotten when about to take a sea 
 voyage) and the portmanteaus were thrown into the gondola : two 
 brawny Venetians rowed us with rapidity through the streets of the 
 town to the ship which was to convey us to Trieste. 
 
 Venice at all times is quiet ; it is never disturbed by those rat- 
 tling noises which enliven other capitals; but at this early hour a 
 sort of melancholy gloom was spread over the town, and, as we en- 
 joyed a farewell glance of her magnificent buildings, produced feel- 
 ings of respect for her ancient greatness, and of sorrow at her fall. — 
 Who, indeed, without heaving the sigh of compassion, can contem- 
 plate a city, once the store of Eastern riches, now the abode of 
 miserable poverty? Superb palaces, in former days inhabited by 
 wealthy and patriotic merchants, now ruined, and possessed by 
 Jews and usurers ; a nation the child of liberty, which had defended 
 its territory for nearly twelve centuries against the incursions of bar- 
 barians, now bending to a foreign yoke. — Our meditations were 
 soon interrupted by the Custom-house officers, a race every where 
 a torment, but in the Austrian dominions a very pest to the tra- 
 veller. We had been in the custom of answering the usual ques- 
 tion of " ha lei qualche cosa per la dogana ?" by throwing into the 
 uplifted hat an half-franc piece : in the towns of Lombardy this 
 had been sufficient to shield our luggage from their impertinence. 
 Here a crown was obstinately demanded, but as sturdily refused ; 
 and, to avoid such imposition, we were obliged to deliver the keys 
 
 B 
 
<* CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 of our travelling bags, and patiently listen to the Venetian abuse 
 which was plentifully exchanged between our gondoliers and the 
 officers, while search was making among our shirts and stockings. 
 After having examined separately every article, (although I believe 
 nothing but grain pays a duty when exported) the head of the party, 
 looking at us with the eye that the jailer of Pennaflor examined Gil 
 Bias, exclaimed with considerable emphasis, " You are not my 
 lords," and permitted us to row towards the ship. There fresh 
 harpies awaited us, in the shape of police officers ; but these were 
 much more civil : they examined our passports, verified the signa- 
 ture of the proper authorities, and having scribbled on the back 
 some illegible characters, for which six lire were demanded, took 
 leave of us, and, with great politeness, wished us " a good voyage." 
 
 Our ship, called a " trabaccolo," was usually employed in per- 
 forming the voyage from Venice to Trieste : she was very clean, for 
 a craft of the Adriatic, and was loaded with Turkey corn and salt 
 fish. We paid for our passage one zechin each, and had the cabin 
 to ourselves. 
 
 In Italian ships the freight is usually shared by the captain and 
 
 the men ; this is, perhaps, the reason that most of them are so over 
 
 manned, as to impede often the manoeuvres ; a circumstance which 
 
 I have frequently known to throw their ships into very great dangers. 
 
 Hardly had we hoisted our anchor, when it was seen that a fishing 
 
 smack, under sail, was almost directly close to our prow, and must 
 
 inevitably have been sunk, had we continued our course. Every 
 
 person on board — even the steersman — rushed to the bow; but 
 
 luckily for those in the boat, our ship struck obliquely, and caused 
 
 very little damage : at that moment the involuntary shriek, which the 
 
 sight of the sudden danger drew from our crew, roused the captain 
 
 of the fishing boat : he and his companions were sleeping on the deck, 
 
 and never shall I forget the horror which was pictured in his features 
 
 on finding himself thus awaking, as it were, in the very jaws of death : 
 
 with his arms convulsively raised, he answered the crash by the 
 
 simple exclamation " Madonna!" 
 
TRIESTE. ó 
 
 Two days' and a night's sailing over the unruffled water of the 
 Venetian Gulf brought us to the end of our voyage ; and after an 
 examination before the Board of Health, a precaution rendered ne- 
 cessary by the vicinity of the Adriatic to the Levant, we entered 
 Trieste, an agreeably -situated port. Its streets are remarkably 
 clean, although extremely rough, being, as it were, paved with 
 masses of rock instead of pebbles ; its harbour is very fine, and well 
 sheltered ; on the sides of which are seen two Lazaretti, or hospitals, 
 where the ships and persons arriving from the Eastern ports are 
 obliged to perform quarantine ; the laws of which appear extremely 
 severe, but not too much so, when it is considered, that upon their 
 enforcement depends the safety of Western Europe. From the 
 Turkish dominions forty-one days are performed ; from the Ionian 
 Isles twenty -three. The town is commanded by a Gothic fort, said 
 to have been built in the reign of Charlemagne : it was stormed in 
 the last war by the English, under Captain Freemantle, and taken, 
 after four hours' bombardment. 
 
 Trieste is the most considerable city in that part of the Austrian 
 dominions called Littorale; it is built on the site of the ancient Ter- 
 geste, at the bottom of the gulph of the same name. It was a 
 long time nothing more than a mere road, hardly offering a shelter 
 to Istrian fishermen : its present flourishing and commercial pros- 
 perity it owes entirely to Maria Theresa. She it was who executed 
 the project which her predecessors, as ambitious, but not so deter- 
 mined as herself, had long planned; namely, to give Austria rank 
 among maritime powers. The advantageous situation of Trieste was 
 the cause of its being selected as the centre where should unite the 
 Austrian navies employed in commerce and in war. In the year 
 1750 the plans were raised ; the proper spots were chosen for the 
 building of ships ; dock -yards were constructed ; warehouses were 
 raised, to contain all articles necessary to the provisioning, rigging, 
 and fitting out of ships. Rope-yards, forges, and hospitals, were soon 
 after erected : in short, nothing was neglected which could at all 
 contribute to the splendour of this newly-revived city ; and the 
 
 B2 
 
* CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Austrian flag, floating on the Levant, made known to Europe, for 
 the first time, the existence of the port of Trieste. 
 
 To attract the advantages of commerce, many were the privileges 
 granted to Trieste : it was declared a free port, and complete tole- 
 ration was allowed within its boundaries. All the trades conducive 
 to the prosperity of navigation were encouraged ; and, by degrees, 
 manufactories of cables, sail-cloths, and arms, and founderies of 
 cannon and bullets were established : these were followed by the 
 establishment of manufactories of articles most suited to the Levant 
 commerce, such as velvets, wax-lights, soaps, and cordials of all 
 sorts : of this last article six hundred thousand bottles arc annually 
 exported. The marasquin of Zara and the rosoglio of Trieste are 
 famous throughout Southern Europe ; the former, like the celebrated 
 northern cordial Kirschewasser, is made of a particular sort of cherry 
 called marasques, which grow in abundance in different parts of 
 Dalmatia; the latter is composed of different ingredients. Cloths 
 and many other articles are likewise, by different nations, imported 
 into Trieste, to be afterwards exported to the different parts of the 
 Mediterranean. 
 
 Near Trieste are many villas belonging to merchants, some of 
 whom are opulent. The inhabitants are industrious, but not cele- 
 brated for their honesty in mercantile transactions. To ensure a 
 sale for inferior German manufactures, it is the custom here to place 
 on the articles the names of English towns and workmen, a practice 
 which I was not a little surprised to hear many Tricstines warmly 
 defend. Several houses failed during our stay, with suspicion of 
 unfair dealing. 
 
 The inhabitants of Trieste remain, as it were, a middle race be- 
 tween the phlegmatic German and the ardent Italian : both lan- 
 guages arc heard equally in the streets. In their mode of living they 
 imitate the Germans, whose cookery, like that of more northern 
 countries, is much more similar to the English than either the 
 French or the Italian. In their social amusements and love of music 
 they much resemble their neighbours the Venetians. We were pre- 
 
TRIESTE. 5 
 
 sent at a country fete given by one of the merchants at his villa ; 
 although it was Sunday, fireworks of all sorts were displayed in the 
 evening, and groups danced among the trees, forcibly recalling to 
 my mind the diversions of the Champs Elysées. 
 
 It was at Trieste that Winckelmann was assassinated by a villain 
 named Arcangeli. This man had been a cook in the house of the Count 
 of Cataldo, at Vienna, and had been condemned to death for several 
 crimes, but had received his pardon : he met his victim on the 
 road from Vienna to Rome, and gained his confidence by affecting 
 to have a great love for the fine arts. Winckelmann was occupied 
 in a room of his inn writing some notes for a new edition of his 
 History of Art, when Arcangeli interrupted him by asking him 
 to see some medals ; hardly had the antiquary opened the trunk 
 which contained them, when his murderer threw on his neck a run- 
 ning knot, and endeavoured to strangle him ; not being able to suc- 
 ceed in his purpose, the sanguinary villain pierced him in several 
 places with a knife : he was immediately seized and executed for his 
 crime ; but his punishment did not repair the loss which literature 
 experienced by the death of Winckelmann. The venerable anti- 
 quary lived sufficiently long to receive the spiritual consolations of 
 his Church, and to dictate his will, by which he named Cardinal 
 Albani his sole legatee. 
 
 Winckelmann was the son of an obscure tradesman of Steudal, 
 in Brandenburg ; by indefatigable exertions he raised himself to a 
 most conspicuous rank in the study of antiquity : he was member of 
 nearly all the literary societies in Europe, and his name will be ever 
 dear to artists. 
 
 We lodged at the Aquila Nera, a tolerably good inn, and not 
 extravagant. At the time of our visit the price of provisions was as 
 follows : — Beef, four-pence per pound ; bread, two-pence ; corn, 
 four florins, (a florin being worth about two shillings) the staro, or 
 one-hundred and thirty pounds' weight; mutton, three-pence a 
 pound ; good wine, fourteen florins the arno, or twenty-six gallons. 
 For about two florins a-day a man may live comfortably in this town. 
 
6 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 We visited the British Consul, a man venerable by his age and 
 good qualities ; he had grown hoary in the service of his country, a 
 last sight of which seemed the only desire of his old age ; death has 
 prevented the gratification of that wish, and few months elapsed after 
 we quitted Trieste ere he was numbered in the long list of the for- 
 gotten. The old Gentleman treated us with great politeness, and 
 by his means we obtained a passage to Constantinople on board the 
 Elizabeth Alexiavilzna, a schooner originally built at Philadelphia, 
 now in possession of an Othman subject, established at Trieste, 
 although bearing the Russian flag. For our passage we were to pay 
 fifty-two zechins, or about twenty-six pounds sterling. 
 
 The vicinity of Trieste is both pleasing and beautiful : the neigh- 
 bouring mountains of Carniola offer to the visitor many of those 
 wild but sublime scenes which nature loves to conceal in moun- 
 tainous regions. The Grotto and Castle of Luegg or Predjan, and 
 the Cataract of the Ruecca, near Novoscollo, are objects excessively 
 interesting : while we were waiting for the Elizabeth to sail we 
 visited these spots ; and as we were so near to the Istrian colonies 
 of ancient Rome, we took advantage of our leisure to make an ex-* 
 cursion to the ruins of Pola, 
 
FOLA. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM TRIESTE IN A FELUCCA ARRIVAL AT POLA — OBSERVATIONS ON THE 
 
 PLAGUE — DESCRIPTION OF THE MONUMENTS OF POLA — ANECDOTE OF ARIOSTO 
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN STATE OF POLA LANGUAGE SPOKEN IN DALMATIA AND THE 
 
 ADJOINING ISLES — RETURN TO TRIESTE — EMBARKATION — STORM IN THE PORT — 
 COMMENCE THE VOYAGE. 
 
 rV E embarked for that purpose on a felucca (a small and elegant 
 vessel, peculiar to the Venetian Gulf:) wafted by a favourable breeze 
 along the shores of Città-nuova and Rovigno, we entered at the fall of 
 day the port of Pola. We remained on board that night, and slept as 
 well as the narrow extent of the cabin would allow ; early in the morn- 
 ing we hastened to examine the monuments on shore, among which, 
 from our place of anchorage, the walls of the Amphitheatre were 
 most conspicuous. 
 
 On landing, we were once more stopped, in order to undergo 
 an examination from the Sanità, or Board of Health It is 
 rather surprising that, notwithstanding the extreme rigour of the 
 laws of health, the plague should so often make its appearance 
 in these parts : even at this period we found it, to our no small 
 disappointment, impossible to visit the ruins of Diocletian's Palace 
 at Spalatro ; that part of the coast down to Ragusa being declared 
 in a state of disease. This is to be attributed, not to the negligence 
 of the health officers, but to the supineness of the police, which 
 does not purge the barren islands of Dalmatia of those pirates and 
 banditti, whose only subsistence depends on plundering the inhabi- 
 tants of the Greek Islands, and then transporting their booty into 
 Dalmatia. Perhaps it may be attributed, in some measure, to the 
 idea which seems to exist among the sailors, that to break quarantine 
 laws is no crime : the same idea prevails among our own sailors with 
 regard to smuggling — the former can with difficulty be persuaded, 
 
8 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 that to expose a country to the ravages of so cruel a disorder as the 
 plague classes as murder ; while the latter cannot more easily be 
 taught to believe, that to defraud the customs is to rob the govern- 
 ment. — When ignorance, and its worthy companion, prejudice, 
 have habituated the mind to vice, and blunted the sting of con- 
 science, little is to be expected from human laws as a preventive of 
 crime. 
 
 The exterior walls of the Amplutheatre are yet entire ; its form 
 and size are similar to those of other Roman monuments of this 
 kind : the interior steps Avere of wood, and not of stone, as in the 
 Coliseum of Rome, or the Amphitheatre of Verona; not a vestige 
 of them now remains, and the wind whistles throtigh the triple tier 
 of arches, unimpeded by any interior obstacle. It is built of a hard 
 sort of granite, in which Istria abounds, and nearly of the same kind 
 as that used in the works lately erected at Venice by the French, 
 and which, we understood, had been brought from Rovigno. 
 
 Besides the Amphitheatre, are to be seen a temple, bearing an 
 inscription, and known by the name of Orlandino ; a triumphal 
 arch, called Porta Aurea ; and the ruins of a building known by 
 the fanciful name of Palazzo di Giulia. 
 
 I have often been surprised to find the name of Orlando 
 or Rolando so frequently attached to ruins in Italy and the 
 neighbouring countries ; Castello di Orlando is a name given near 
 Naples and in Magna Grecia to almost every one of the towers 
 which, in former times, served as fastnesses for those bands of 
 robbers which ravaged the country, and bade defiance even to 
 Spanish despotism. This may be accounted for by the great dif- 
 fusion of Ariosto's poem, the nature and variety of which render 
 it, perhaps, more attractive than any other to the lower orders. 
 Of this it is well known the poet had a convincing proof: 
 falling, during a ramble over the Appenincs, among a band of rob- 
 bers, they were on the point of taking from him his purse, and, 
 perhaps, his life ; but having recognised in him the author of 
 Orlando, they threw themselves at his feet, intreated pardon for 
 
POLA. 9 
 
 their intended injury, and, singing his verses, guarded him to a 
 place of greater security. 
 
 Pola formerly gave its name to the neighbouring promontory, 
 Polaticum Promontorium; it was next to the town of Aegida, the 
 first of Istria : under the Emperor Severus it even bore the title of 
 Respublica. It now contains not more than three or four hundred 
 inhabitants, who are defended from the incursions of pirates by a 
 small detachment of the garrison of Trieste. Its situation is delight- 
 ful, but its present inhabitants are miserably squalid and dirty: their 
 subsistence is wholly derived from the cultivation of the olive and 
 vine ; or from the fish which they catch on their shore. Dante, in 
 his Inferno, mentions the territory of Pola as covered with sepulchres, 
 comparing to it the city of Dis, where, as a good Catholic, he 
 represents the heresiarchs eternally burning in red-hot tombs. 
 
 " Siccom'a Pola presso del Quarnaro 
 
 " Ch' Italia chiude, e i suoi termini bagna, 
 
 " Fanno i sepolcri tutto'l loco varo ; 
 " Così facevan quivi d'ogni parte, 
 " Salvo che'l modo v'era più amaro." 
 
 Either the land has much changed, or the poet has not written 
 with accuracy. 
 
 When I quitted England, I was desired to ascertain, if possible, 
 whether any foundation existed for the opinion, that the ancient 
 Thracic might be spoken in some of the islands of Arba, Veglia, 
 and Cherso, situate in the Sinus Polensis : I sought during my stay 
 for all possible information on this interesting subject ; but, as far 
 as I could learn, no traces of that tongue now remain. The 
 language spoken near Pola and in the island of Arba, the principal 
 of all those of the Guarnaro, is, as might be expected, a mixture of 
 the Italian, or rather Venetian, of the opposite shore, and the 
 language called Illyrian, spoken at Ragusa and throughout Dal- 
 matia, Morlachia, and Istria. This latter is a dialect of the Scla- 
 vonic, a language, with slight variations, spoken by above fifty 
 
 C 
 
10 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 millions, throughout an immense tract of land, stretching from the 
 Adriatic, northward, to the Icy Ocean ; and eastward, to Kam- 
 chatka. 
 
 Having given to the examination of the antiquities of Pola that 
 time which is usually devoted to such objects, by those who wish to 
 see and not to study, we returned to Trieste with some difficulty, in 
 consequence of the wind, which had served us so well the day be- 
 fore, still continuing. We, however, luckily arrived soon enough 
 to secure our passage on board the schooner, which was on the 
 point of sailing. 
 
 We embarked, but a sudden tempest of wind, hail, and 
 thunder, hindered us from setting sail immediately. These storms, 
 produced, perhaps, by the vicinity of the mountains of Carniola 
 and Illyria, destroy many ships in the Adriatic sea; they are 
 called by the sailors, Bore* A greater scene of confusion can- 
 not well be imagined than that which the port of Trieste pre- 
 sents when the Bore blows : the howling of the wind, the crash 
 of ships, and the cries of sailors of all nations, combine to present 
 one of the most terrific examples of the dangers of a seafaring life. 
 Luckily its fury lasted not long ; a fine north breeze followed, and 
 we hove anchor. The pier was covered with spectators, who waved 
 their hats, exclaiming " buon viaggio," a salute which our sailors 
 cordially returned by a shout of " buona permanenza :" the wind 
 being favourable, we soon were at a distance from the port, and the 
 owner of our ship, having squeezed us heartily by the hand, and 
 saluted the captain with a kiss, prepared to return in his launch to 
 Trieste : he was accompanied back to the port by the wife of one of 
 ' our fellow passengers ; loath to quit her husband, she had stayed 
 with him till now; the young couple had just been married, and, I 
 can assure you, their farewell was not unaccompanied with tears ; 
 
 * Bore is a Sclavonic wovd, signifying ^torm. 
 
POLA. 11 
 
 "addio" was pronounced on both sides in a voice choked by affec- 
 tionate grief. The husband placed himself at the stern, and with 
 an eye of anxiety and fondness, followed the boat as it returned, 
 until its distance and the darkness of the evening rendered it no 
 longer visible — 
 
 " Illi robur et aes triplex 
 
 " Circa pectus erat, qui fragilem truci 
 
 w Commisit pelago ratem 
 
 " Primus" 
 
 C2 
 
ADRIATIC. 
 
 DESCENDING THE ADRIATIC GULF — DESCRIPTION OF THE MORLACS ILLYRIAN SEAMEN 
 
 DIFFERENT MODES OF HAILING AT SEA ENTRANCE OF THE IONIAN SEA — CORFU, 
 
 PAXOS, CEPHALONIA- — FLYING FISH — ZANTE, THE STROPHADES, THE LOVEIl's LEAP 
 
 CERIGO — ENTRANCE OF THE ARCHIPELAGO PIRATES — A HERMIT IN ONE OF THE 
 
 ISLANDS CALMS — ETESIAN GALES. 
 
 A FAIR northerly wind continued during our voyage down the 
 Adriatic. We were almost constantly among the islands of the 
 Dalmatian coast, few of which contain habitations, their sterility 
 rendering them unfit to serve for any thing but refuges to pirates 
 and outlaws. The inhabitants of the shore of Dalmatia and 
 of the more important islands, are mostly Italians, or, by their 
 intercourse with Italians, rendered similar to them in customs 
 and manners. The natives of the mountains are nearly sa- 
 vages, unskilled in the sciences and arts, and almost ignorant 
 of religion : they are, like the Bedouins, hospitable to those 
 who place themselves under their protection, although inclined 
 very often to rob the merchants, whom desire of gain may 
 induce to wander over their sterile lands. The road, which has 
 been made by the French through Illyria, has not yet had the effect 
 of polishing these barbarous tribes : an inhabitant of Zara, a 
 sensible person, who had travelled much in the neighbourhood of 
 his native town, was on board our ship ; he spoke of the Morlacs 
 with a terror and dread which clearly proved the sanguinary rob- 
 beries of those people not to be entirely the fabrication of the tra- 
 veller's brain. 
 
 The customs of the Morlacs are similar to those of almost all 
 other savage tribes of which we have any account, and offer another 
 proof that man every where is originally the same, and that from 
 society and civilization alone proceeds difference of character. 
 Among them superstition holds the place of religion, bodily strength 
 
ADRIATIC. 13 
 
 that of mental vigour, and witchcraft that of science. As soon as 
 they are born, the children are plunged into cold water; the 
 whole of their education tends to make them strong and dauntless. 
 Their food, of the coarsest kind, consists principally of maize cakes, 
 and milk curdled with vinegar. Men and beasts inhabit the same 
 huts, which are made of the simplest materials, without chimneys 
 or windows. They shave their heads like the Turks, leaving only 
 a small tuft of hair, and wear a scull cap of scarlet cloth. They 
 speak a rough dialect of the Sclavonic, mixed with Turkish and 
 Italian words, and are represented as extremely fond of a barbarous 
 dance called kolo, or circle, in which men and women, forming a 
 circle, dance, or rather leap, to the notes of a one-stringedinstru- 
 ment. When travelling over their desert mountains, they beguile 
 the way by singing in turns the feats of their ancient Sclavonic 
 kings, or narrating some tragic tale. 
 
 Our schooner was manned by Illyrian sailors : they were very 
 dirty, certainly more civil, but I doubt whether so skilful as the 
 seamen of northern kingdoms : those tempests of long duration, to 
 which the Atlantic sailor is often exposed, are unknown in more 
 confined seas, where, in every part, a secure harbour is at hand, to 
 shield the battered vessel from the rage of the sea. In a summer 
 voyage, they have little more to do than to eat and chink, tell horrid 
 tales of pirates' cruelty, and hail each ship that passes ; this last 
 practice is never neglected, and the mode of executing it proves 
 forcibly, that some portion of that proneness to compliment, Avhich 
 characterises Italy and all other nations swayed by despotic govern- 
 ments, may transfuse itself even into the dominions of Neptune. An 
 English ship hails in a manner rough and abrupt " Ho the ship — 
 whither bound — where from :" in the Mediterranean all communi- 
 cation must be preceded by the hoisting of the colours and the com- 
 pliment " Buon giorno Signor Capitano e tutta la compagnia, buon 
 giorno ;" while every question is ended by a " di grazia," which is 
 made to reverberate for several seconds in the speaking trumpet. 
 
 We entered the Ionian sea, and passed, at some distance, the 
 
14 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 island of Corfu ; while the Acroceraunian mountains behind us were 
 seen rising with majestic beauty. 
 
 " linde iter Italiani, cursusque brevissimus undis." 
 
 From the mast head the shores of Italy and Epirus were both 
 distinctly seen. 
 
 Corfu is the first of the Ionian Isles that you meet in sailing 
 from the Adriatic. Not far from Corfu is the small island of 
 Paxos, the last, indeed, of the seven islands which compose the 
 Ionian states, but one of the most fruitful, especially in oil. On 
 the twenty-second we sailed by Leucadiae, now Sta. Maura; as we 
 passed very near, on the western side of the island, we had an 
 opportunity of viewing, through a glass, the overhanging rock, so 
 celebrated as the spot whence the lover's leap was taken, and where 
 Sappho rushed into the arms of death : at about the distance of 
 eighty miles is Cephalonia, the largest of the islands, anciently 
 called Samos. Its coast, seen from the sea, is much more beautiful 
 and picturesque than that of Corfu ; and would be still more so, if 
 the hills were, as formerly, covered with wood ; but its forests were 
 destroyed some years since by the peasantry, in a civil war, which 
 lasted many years, under the Venetian government. 
 
 While we were on the Ionian sea, our ship was frequently sur- 
 rounded with shoals of flying fish (ewocoetus exiliens :) we caught 
 several, and found them very good eating ; they fly neither so high 
 nor so far as many pretend : pursued by the bonite and dolphin they 
 rush from the waters, and are immediately seized by the hovering 
 cormorant. 
 
 Taking advantage of the wind we passed the island of Zante 
 (Zacynthus) and the Strophades, still the terror of the sailors, not 
 as the dwelling of Harpies, but as rocks, on which their ships are 
 often wrecked in stormy and wintry nights. Behind these islands 
 were seen the higher parts of the Peloponesus, whose dark moun- 
 tains imprinted on the scene a majesty which proclaimed our vi- 
 cinity to classic land. I need not describe to you the feelings which 
 
ADRIATIC. 15 
 
 every traveller must experience on first seeing those spots, the valour 
 and wisdom of whose ancient inhabitants he has been taught to 
 revere and imitate : every island we passed, every cape we 
 doubled, every mountain which reared its lofty top among the 
 clouds, nay, the very sea itself on which Ave sailed, served to pro- 
 duce some delightful recollection, and rivetted us, during the day, 
 to the ship's side, while the cool serenity of the night enticed us to 
 remain on deck, after sun set, until exhausted nature called for 
 rest. Having doubled Cape Matapan, we passed sufficiently near 
 the island of Cerigo (Cythera) to see the English sentinel, who was 
 mounting guard at the fort : the garrison consists of seven men ; 
 and I should think that the ignominy of punishment is the only cir- 
 cumstance which renders the life of the South Wales convict less 
 comfortable than theirs. 
 
 A violent north wind drove us towards the high shore of Candy, 
 (Crete) where we were buffetted about a long time, not being able 
 to enter the Archipelago, or, as it is quaintly expressed by the 
 English sailors, not being able to make the arches. By dint of 
 tacking, we at last found ourselves among the Cyclades, and passed 
 successively the island of Milo, celebrated for its sulphurous exhala- 
 tions ; Thermia (Cynthos,) still famous for its cheese ; and Jura, a 
 rocky spot, to which the Romans sent their exiles of rank, and ap- 
 propriately described by Juvenal with the epithet Breves. 
 
 *' Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris et carcere dignum 
 " Si vis esse aliquis." 
 
 Every day our patience was exercised by calms which forebode 
 the commencement of the Etesian gales ; no punishment can be 
 imagined more cruel to an active mind than to be a passenger on 
 board a ship becalmed; the masts constantly creaking, and the pul- 
 leys and cordages striking against the deck, teaze the ear by their 
 eternal sameness of sound, while the eye is tired with contemplating 
 the same lands, ever in view at the same distance : man in such a 
 case feels himself deprived of one of his most precious rights — his 
 
16 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 liberty — and but little persuasion is required to induce him to assent 
 to the idea that a ship is only another word for a prison. 
 
 Our sailors took advantage of these calms, to clean the guns, 
 and place themselves in readiness to give the pirates a warm recep- 
 tion, should they think proper to attack us. The numerous se- 
 cluded ports of the islands and of the Morea serve as haunts to these 
 villains; the number of whom has, however, been much diminished 
 by the vigilance of the French, English, and Turkish frigates, sta- 
 tioned in these seas. There is but little doubt that the stories told 
 of their barbarous cruelty are mere exaggerations; although the 
 horrid punishment which is inflicted upon them, when taken by the 
 Turks, must often induce them to avoid detection, by addin gmur- 
 der to their other crimes. A Mainote, chief of one of these parties, 
 I suppose, repenting of his crimes, has retired to one of the small 
 desert islands, situate to the south of the Morea ; he there leads the 
 life of a hermit, subsisting upon the charity of his neighbouring 
 countrymen, who much venerate his sanctity. 
 
 The Etesian winds, which the late calms had taught our sailors 
 to expect, were not long in making their approach ; the black ap- 
 pearance of the sea in the horizon, and the ships descending the 
 Archipelago before the wind, proved to us the necessity of preparing 
 for the gale ; a reef was taken in the different sails, the seamen put 
 on their capots, and all on board again assumed a lively and 
 brisk appearance. The wind was furious and contrary, and 
 after sailing some time, without gaining any way, our captain re- 
 solved to await more favourable weather in the secure port of Zea 
 (Ceos) situate nearly opposite to Promontorium Sunium : in the 
 evening we reached it with great difficulty. 
 
 The Etesian winds may be regarded as the monsoons of the 
 Levant ; they blow almost constantly during the summer months, 
 and cool the air, which otherwise would be scorched by the sun ; it 
 is to those winds that Greece owes the many advantages of her cli- 
 mate. While they blow, much sand is thrown upon the shores of 
 Asia and Africa, and indeed it is to that cause that some of the 
 
ADRIATIC. 17 
 
 cients attributed the overflowing of the Nile : — 
 
 " Nilus in aestati crescit, campisque redundat 
 " Unicus in terris iEgypti totius amnis. 
 " Is rigat iEgyptum medium per saepe calorem, 
 " Aut quia sunt aestate aquilones ostia contra 
 " Anni tempore eo, quo Etesia flabra feruntur ; 
 " Et contra fluvium flantes remorantur, et undas 
 " Cogentes sursus replent, coguntque manere. 
 " Nam dubio procul haec adverso flabra feruntur 
 " Flumine, quae gelidis a stellis axis aguntur. 
 " Hie ex aestifera parti venit amnis ab austro 
 " Inter nigra virum, percoctaque saecla calore, 
 " Exoriens penitus media ab regione diei." 
 
 Lucret. 
 
 I shall not endeavour to trace the philosophical reason of the 
 periodical existence of these winds ; that will, doubtless, be disco- 
 vered when the nature of winds in general is determined, and not 
 till then. On this subject, however, the ancients knew no difficulty ; 
 Aristaeus prayed to Jupiter to diminish the summer heat, and the 
 kind God instantly caused the Etesiae to bloAV. 
 
 D 
 
 m 
 
ZEA (CEOS.) 
 
 ARRIVAL AT CEOS — FIRST VIEW OF THE PORT — -CONSUL — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND 
 
 — THE TOWN THE INVENTION OF SILK — THE CATTLE FEED ON BUSHES — THE 
 
 CHURCHES — THE DRESS OF THE ISLANDERS ; THEIR MANNERS THE BRITISH VICE- 
 CONSUL; HIS FAMILY AND ESTABLISHMENT — GOVERNMENT OF THE ISLAND — PRICE 
 OF PROVISIONS — SIMONIDES DEPARTURE FROM ZEA. 
 
 JL HE entrance to the port is so narrow, that it is distinguished 
 only by a small white Greek chapel, erected near it : these small 
 buildings, many of which serve as land-marks in the Archipelago, 
 are called by the pilots Calouri, a word derived, perhaps, from the 
 modern Greek Kuxolepog, a monk. It was night when we cast anchor; 
 we were, therefore, obliged to defer till the following day the plea- 
 sure of feasting our eyes with the first sight of Greece and her 
 inhabitants. 
 
 How miserably were we disappointed in our expectations ! In- 
 stead of that beautiful country, which juvenile imagination figures to 
 itself existing in Greece, we saw nothing but a sandy marsh and 
 some barren rocks, covered with a stunted and parched heath : in- 
 stead of those sumptuous edifices, which one can hardly help repre- 
 senting to oneself, as still adorning this classic land, a few ruined 
 huts, without windows or chimneys, stood before us : in vain we 
 sought in the features of the miserable wretches who crawled on the 
 shore, traces of those manly features which characterized their an- 
 cestors. Although not unacquainted with the account of former 
 travellers, such was the force of early and habitual ideas, that we 
 stared in astonishment, and involuntarily exclaimed, "Is thai 
 Greece?" 
 
 On our boat approaching the shore, we were hailed by a person 
 dressed in a shabby European costume : we afterwards found that 
 
ZEA. 
 
 19 
 
 he was Cancellarlo of his Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul, and 
 likewise Agent to the United States, although his conduct to the 
 Greeks, who crowded round him, anxious to get a sight of the new 
 comers, seemed quite the contrary of that, which generally dis- 
 tinguishes the representatives of America : but, it should be recol- 
 lected, that in the Cyclades the privilege of wearing a pair of ragged 
 Italian breeches gives to a man as much superiority as the star, 
 which decorates the bosom of the Lord in more polished lands. He 
 asked us to see our bill of health ; and it was not until it had been 
 properly examined, and he had seen we had touched at no Othman 
 port since our departure, that he would grant us permission to land. 
 Report whispers, that the ridiculous farce of quarantine has been 
 established here, in order to give the higher powers of the island an 
 opportunity of extorting a few dollars from the captains who come 
 from Constantinople; nevertheless, on my second passage at the 
 island, I saw the Bishop of Athens, a person much respected in 
 these parts, performing quarantine in a hovel on the shore. Among 
 the inhabitants there was evidently a great fear of the plague, which 
 was then said to be raging with violence in the Negropont (Euboea.) 
 The Signor Cancellarlo treated us each with a glass of rachy, 
 (brandy;) in return for which he plentifully supplied himself from 
 our stock of segars, and then proposed conducting us to the town, 
 situate on the highest part of the island. 
 
 When we had proceeded a little up the country, we found it was 
 not quite so sterile as we at first imagined. The mould is banked 
 up on the mountain side with stone walls, forming borders of about 
 ten feet in breadth : upon these all the grain is sown and cultivated. 
 The principal produce of the island is vellani (a sort of oak) cotton, 
 and a little barley. Some little silk is also made in this island, the 
 first spot, according to ancient tradition, where that material was 
 discovered. 
 
 Pamphila, of this island, first taught how to weave silk, and to 
 make of it crape garments for women ; this stuff was so very fine, 
 
 D2 
 
20 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 that it was compared to gossamer, and was poetically called a web 
 of air* 
 
 Ceos, or Caea, was not only famous as the spot where the use 
 of silk was discovered ; it was likewise fabled to have served as an 
 asylum to Aristaeus, the father of Actreon, and the inventor of 
 cheese and honey. 
 
 A few gardens, situated in the valley, supply the inhabitants 
 with abundance of fruits, peculiar to the Levant, such as the uva 
 passa (well known in England by the name of currant) citrons, 
 melons, lemons, and pomegranates. In this island, as in all the 
 other parts of the Levant, pasture-land cannot, during the greater 
 part of the year, be possibly obtained ; the cattle, consequently, are 
 obliged to feed chiefly upon bushes. 
 
 " et cultor nemorum, cui pinguia Casse 
 
 " Ter centum nivei tondent «lumeta juvenci." 
 
 The bushes are of the nature of a prickly and small-leaved oak, 
 which in these climates grows in great abundance ; its acorns offer 
 a delicious mast for the swine, which rove over the land in vast 
 herds. 
 
 A rugged and very fatiguing road leads up to the little town, the 
 only one in the island. It consists of about a thousand miserable 
 dirty huts, built with flat roofs, and laid out in irregular, narrow, 
 and unpaved streets or lanes, in which you stumble over pigs, 
 children, and dogs, at every step : the surrounding eminences are 
 crowned with wind-mills, built exactly like those in England, and 
 moved by six or eight, or even, sometimes, ten wings. At these mills 
 
 * This observation of Aristotle seems to determine Cos (now Ceos) as die island where the 
 
 use Of SUK was discovered. E/c H Ttvog otccìXijkoc fttyaXv, og ì^" ò/ov Kipara, Kaì faa<pipu tù>v àWwv, 
 yivirai irpùiTov fiìv /ut7-a/3a\óvTOf tS <tk<j\;)K0£ Kapimj, tirura (ìopfii'Xtog ìk òi t&th viKvòaXog. tv ò'ii fii)<ri 
 fitra^àWii Tavrag rag [topipàg iràaag. ìk Sì tutu rà £ó»« Kaì rà /3a/i/3vKta avaXunai tùv yvvaiKuiv tivìc 
 àvairtivi^OjHvai Kaì ìwura v^aivuai. irpùrt) lì Xìytrai iupàvai iv Ky Ilap<pi\ij Aarwg Suyàrtip. 
 
 
ZEA. 21 
 
 all sorts of grain are ground, for which one-tenth is paid upon the 
 grist. 
 
 To strangers the inhabitants are, upon the whole, civil ; but 
 their countenances wear that appearance of indifference which 
 marks so eminently their lords, the Turks. You every where meet 
 with the Papas, or priests of their church, distinguished by a black 
 cap and long beard. Of these there are here forty, besides a Bishop : 
 the number of inhabitants is four thousand, so that every hundred 
 souls have a priest. The churches are the most miserable edifices, 
 you can well imagine, raised for divine service : of the poverty of 
 many of their churches you may form some idea, when I tell you 
 that a potsherd often serves as a censer. The usual dress of these 
 islanders consists of a cap, or small turban, a loose pair of drawers, 
 and jacket, or cloak of velvet, with open sleeves ; many wear small 
 pieces of coin instead of buttons. The female dress is nearly the 
 same as that of the Italians ; but, as the women wear no stays, their 
 form does not appear nearly so graceful, nor otherwise are their 
 attitudes becoming : when they saw us approach, they hastily re- 
 treated to their houses. We were present at a wedding in the town ; 
 the joyous feast was not conducted without noise ; they danced and 
 sung to the sound of the guitar. Immediately on our entrance we 
 were welcomed, and served with coffee and sweatmeats, the first 
 things offered to strangers. In point, of cleanliness, they seem not 
 much inferior to the Italians ; the Englishman stares at being 
 presented with a pipe from his next neighbour's mouth : many 
 other civilities of the same nature are offered to the tra- 
 veller. 
 
 They, as may be expected, are extremely ignorant; although 
 that ignorance seems not irremediable. The Scriptures are here en- 
 joined to be read, and not, as in Catholic countries, forbidden by 
 their church. An old man, who spoke tolerably -good Italian, re- 
 lated to me, with proud enthusiasm, the history of the siege of one 
 of the towns of the island, by the Athenians; when the inhabitants, 
 rather than be obliged, by famine, to fall into the hands of the 
 
22 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 enemy, resolved to poison a certain number of their citizens, in 
 order that the remainder might be able to continue the resistance. 
 
 The love of the Zeots for their country is very great ; most of 
 those who quit it in their youth, return to pass their latter days in 
 their native land. We wished to take with us a young lad, about 
 twelve years old ; he had a great desire to accompany us as a ser- 
 vant ; but his mother strenuously refused her permission for him to 
 depart, alleging, that she was sure he could not be happy out 
 of Zea. 
 
 Most of their meat is brought from Andros, or Eubcea, the 
 former of which is still famous for its cattle and its wine. Their 
 wood is brought from the neighbouring coast of Negropont. 
 
 During our stay we often visited Signor Pangolo, the British 
 Vice -Consul, a Greek, placed here originally by the Levant Com- 
 pany, for the purpose of watching and taking notice of the measures 
 of the pirates. He is the first man in the island, and is supported 
 by the ships which stress of weather obliges to cast anchor in the 
 port, each of which, bearing the British flag, pays three dollars. 
 The house which he inhabits, and on which the English jack is 
 proudly displayed, can boast of no architectural beauty ; yet it is 
 said to be several hundred years old. It is built upon a very high 
 rock, and commands a noble view of the sea. From his windows he 
 has a prospect of the site of Athens, and the plains of Marathon. 
 Pangolo's family is numerous ; he himself has studied at Pisa, and 
 speaks very good Italian. His wife is a relation of the Bishop of 
 Athens. We invited the whole party to dinner on board the 
 schooner : to the inexpressible satisfaction of the Consul, the cap- 
 tain received them with a salute from the great guns ; in gratitude 
 for which, after our Italian wine had been pretty freely handed 
 about, the ladies favoured us with a Romaic song, which, I am cer- 
 tain, even classical enthusiasm could not have found harmonious. 
 Some of these ladies are far from being ugly, but the free, not to 
 say indecent, postures which they assume when lolling on their 
 dyvans, render their beauty not very attractive to a northern taste. 
 
ZEA. 23 
 
 The families of the Consuls resemble, in some degree, those of 
 our old manorial lords; each has his huntsman, fisherman, gardener, 
 karavikyrios, (nupttfaxvpio?) or boatman, &c. They are the only per- 
 sons who wear the French dress, and are much respected, not being 
 subject to the tyrannic despotism of the Turks. 
 
 The island is executively governed by two native Greeks, called 
 Despots, (Sfa-xoT^?;) by the Italians, Primato: these persons take 
 cognizance of all offences, but have not the power of life and death ; 
 the legislative power (if it deserves the name or exists) is in the 
 hands of a small aristocracy, consisting of the despots, the bishop, 
 and two of the richest natives. The power of the primate extends to 
 Othman subjects alone : all authority over the others is placed in 
 the hands of the respective Consuls; it may, therefore, easily be 
 imagined, that the honour of belonging to a foreign Consulship is 
 eagerly sought. The tribute paid to the Grand Signor is about 
 three piastres for each house ; and one-tenth of the produce of the 
 land goes to the Pashà of the Negropont. Zea, as well as all the 
 islands of the Archipelago, belong to the Captain Pashà, who draws 
 from them his revenue. The Church is supported by voluntary 
 offerings. 
 
 When in its splendour, Ceos had three towns; of two of 
 these some shapeless remains are still shewn, and excavations, made 
 in certain spots, have brought to light some pieces of rough sculp- 
 ture and the shafts of a few columns, which are now scattered on the 
 beach of the port. The price of provisions, during our stay, was as 
 follows : — Meat, twenty-five paras (or farthings) the oche, (nearly 
 three pounds weight ;) wine, eight paras per bottle ; and fruit, ten 
 paras the oche. 
 
 It was at Ceos that Simonides was born : he added to the Greek 
 alphabet the letters ^ «, £, ^ ; the two former uselessly, say the 
 modern Greeks ; for according to their pronunciation y and « repre- 
 sent precisely the same sounds as i and o. 
 
 AUGUST 8th. 
 In the evening a light and favourable breeze springing up, we 
 weighed anchor, but hardly were we arrived near Macronisi, or 
 
24 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Long Island, when il again became directly contrary. The Long 
 Island was by the ancients called Helena, from its having been, 
 some say, the first spot where Paris rested with his mistress ; others, 
 that where Helen came after the siege of Troy. It was always un- 
 inhabited ; it is so now : its surface is rocky and sterile. Homer, 
 with his usual precision, denominates it rugged, Nvia-a S"ev K?«v«^, h.t.k. 
 We had the greatest difficulty to beat through the strait called 
 the Bocca Silota ,* which, although only twenty miles long, occupied 
 us a day and a night, during which we were constantly near the 
 shores of Andros, Negropont, and Tinos. The surface of Euboea, 
 seen from the sea, offers an agreeable prospect ; its woody sides 
 form a contrast with the dry, rocky appearance of the other isles. 
 Andros and Tinos seem to have as few attractions as Zea: the same 
 dry ridges weary the eyes of a traveller accustomed to the green 
 fields of England and France. Once escaped from the Bocca 
 Silota, we shortly lost sight of Negropont ; approaching the Asiatic 
 coast, not far from Ephesus, we anchored off Cape Blanc, having to 
 our north Scio (Chios,) to our east the ruins of Ephesus, to our 
 south Samos. 
 
 The coast of Ionia appears, from a distance, much more 
 fertile than any of the Cyclades ; the whole of the shore is laid 
 out in gardens, producing most excellent fruit, which, when dried, 
 forms an important object of exportation from Smyrna. The breeze 
 coming from the land was warm and suffocating ; it produced nearly 
 the same feeling as that which is experienced by the sudden opening 
 of an heated oven. 
 
 * So called, perhaps, from the Greek word Svfanrtt, (woody.) 
 
SCIO (CHIOS.) 
 
 ARRIVAI- AT SCIO DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY — A TURKISH CHURCH-YARD PRODUC- 
 TIONS AND EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND MASTIC TREES LITERATURE IS CULTIVATED IN 
 
 THE ISLAND — THE MONASTERY OF ST. MINAS ANTIQUITIES OF THE ISLAND — A TURK- 
 ISH FRIGATE — OBSERVATIONS ON THE NAVY FOOD OF THE INHABITANTS — CULTIVA- 
 TION OF THE VINE AND FIG CAPRIFICATION HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE ISLAND — 
 
 ACCOUNT OF MEZZOMORTO. 
 
 HERE we remained a day and night, and then, weighing anchor, 
 came into the bay of St. Helen, one of the ports of Scio. This was 
 the second island at which we had landed in the Archipelago, and 
 if Zea had at all been capable of creating prejudices against classic 
 spots, a walk across this island was more than sufficient to 
 dispel them ; indeed all the ideas which poetic fancy can form of 
 an earthly paradise seem here realized : the face of the country, 
 itself most fruitful, is cultivated with the greatest assiduity; every 
 where you ramble through rich vineyards, intermingled with fig- 
 trees, loaded with fruit. The valleys are intersected with paths, 
 shaded by trees, spreading over the traveller's head branches bend- 
 ing under the weight of lemons, oranges, and pomegranates. The 
 inhabitants seem willing to join their efforts to add to the charms of 
 their island; by all the foreigner is welcomed, and with delight the 
 traveller hears the peasant's salute, good day, good evening, kale 
 emera, kale espera, (y.uXv\ wi\u, vm\v\ ears'p*.) All the respectable houses 
 are built in the Genoese style, with pyramidal roofs, having before 
 them a flight of steps, shaded beneath a trellis of grapes, whose 
 richly-hanging bunches seem the picture of abundance. 
 
 The women dress in a very becoming manner, and we remarked 
 among them many striking beauties, who might well have served 
 Praxiteles for a model. 
 
 E 
 
26 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 From St. Helen to the town of Scio, built by the Genoese upon 
 the site of the ancient Chios, is a walk of three hours ; notwithstand- 
 ing the intense heat of the sun, enlivened by the charms of the road, 
 we performed the journey with ease. 
 
 Near the town, and on the sea shore, is seen a vast burial-ground 
 appropriated to the Turks : the cause of its being so extensive, is, that 
 their religion forbids the burial of more than one person on the same 
 spot of ground; the graves are indicated by stones, inscribed with gilt 
 Arabic characters : they are shaded with cypress, aloes, and the 
 other trees by most nations regarded as expressive of grief. Vizirs 
 and other great men have a Kubbe, that is, a tower and monument 
 beautifully built, placed over their graves. People of a middle station 
 have two stones, placed upright, one at the head, the other at the 
 feet. One of these stones has the name of the deceased, elegantly 
 written ; to which is added, sometimes in prose, sometimes in verse, 
 a prayer of this or the like form, at the direction of the heir : Dama 
 Allaho halahi rahmataho, May God shew eternal mercy to him. If a 
 man is buried, upon the top of the stone is a Turkish turban ; if a 
 woman, another sort of ornament is placed there. The stone at the 
 feet is the same in both. The sepulchral chapels erected in memory 
 of some saints of Islamism and of the Sultans are called turbeh. 
 These buildings are generally placed in the gardens of the mosques, 
 founded by these princes ; they are very richly adorned. The grave, 
 which is in the middle of the chapel, is covered with a wooden chest, 
 wrapped in red velvet, enriched with gold and precious stones, and 
 having different verses of the Koran embroidered on it : towards the 
 side where reclines the head of the defunct monarch is seen a piece 
 of the veil which has covered the shrine of Mecca, (for no Moslem 
 must be buried without a piece of that sacred cloth) over which is a 
 muslin turban. Silver rails, incrustated with mother of pearl, sur- 
 round the grave, at the extremities of which are two lofty chandeliers 
 with tapers. The interior of these chapels is magnificently adorned 
 with marble, porcelain, and golden inscriptions. Lamps, ever 
 lighted, hang from the roof, and the turbeh-dars, or keepers of the 
 
scio. 27 
 
 tomb, are constantly reading chapters of the Koran for the repose 
 of the soul of the Sultans. Constantinople contains about twenty 
 of these turbehs. The Turkish burial-grounds are always placed 
 near the towns, and, being kept clean and adorned with verdure, 
 are agreeable yet impressive objects : they are never imagined to be 
 haunted, a circumstance more to be attributed to their attractive ap- 
 pearance; than to any strength of mind peculiar to the followers of 
 Mahomet. Indeed one can see no reason why the resting-place of 
 our departed friends should be in the most dirty and melancholy 
 spots, or why their remains should be so often and so unnecessarily 
 disturbed. 
 
 The town itself is very large and populous ; it abounds in coffee- 
 houses, at each of which both Greeks and Turks are seen drinking 
 coffee and smoking their pipes with countenances marked by the 
 greatest indifference and inactivity ; many are seen playing at 
 chess and the oriental game of mangala It is the capital of the 
 whole island, which contains seventy-six villages, and one hundred 
 and fifty thousand inhabitants, Greeks, Turks, and Armenians. 
 
 The garrison at this time consisted only of twenty Turks and a 
 governor ; besides whom there is another appointed solely for that 
 district of the island in which the mastic is produced. 
 
 This mastic is the gum of a small tree, sometimes seen in the 
 south of France, where it is called " lentisque;" it is esteemed an 
 excellent stomachic and an admirable dentifrice, for which reason, 
 it is said, the ladies of the Grand Seignor's seraglio constantly have 
 a piece of it in their mouths ; the Roman ladies, not less careful of 
 their persons than the Turkish belles, used mastic tooth-picks. It 
 grows only in one quarter of the island, and all that which is ga- 
 thered must be sent to the Grand Sei gnor, who, after having re- 
 served for himself a certain part, sells the remainder : the Greeks 
 are forbidden to have any without leave in their houses ; notwith- 
 standing this prohibition, a great quantity is yearly smuggled, and 
 may be easily and cheaply obtained. From its mastic the Turks 
 know Chios by the name Sakis adisi, " mastic island," 
 
 E2 
 
28 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 The principal exports of this island are fruits and cotton : this 
 latter the women are constantly seen before their habitations spinning, 
 or preparing for the loom : besides this they export nut-galls, mastic, 
 terebinth, different sorts of silk, and tanned hides. The Sciotes are 
 perhaps the only people among the Greek nations who shew any 
 taste in manufactures : they had almost driven, some years back, 
 the French from the silk bazaar of Constantinople, which has for a 
 long time been supplied almost entirely with Lyons manufactures. 
 The silks of Scio were, however, inferior in quality, although less 
 expensive. 
 
 Literature is more cultivated in Scio than perhaps in any other part 
 of Greece; we saw here a large school, containing nearly two hundred 
 boys — a library of about two thousand volumes is attached to it. Seven 
 or eight professors teach the belles lettres and sciences, one of whom 
 reads lectures in Arabic ; but as neither medicine nor law is taught here, 
 no degrees can be conferred : no priest officiates in the island who 
 has not been a member of the college; the clergy of Scio are therefore 
 much more enlightened than in the other parts of the Othinan do- 
 minions. The boys are taught to read and write the Romaic, and 
 to keep accounts ; in this latter branch of science I saw many who 
 had made considerable proficiency, although the Greeks, generally 
 speaking, are in arithmetical calculations far surpassed by the lurks, 
 whose quickness in this respect is very remarkable. The language 
 spoken at Scio is so coarse a dialect of the Romaic that the other 
 Greeks find it difficult to understand the inhabitants : whether this 
 language has any resemblance to the dialect of ancient Ionia I 
 cannot inform you. 
 
 During our stay here we paid a visit to a monastery situated on 
 the top of a hill, commanding the port where we lay, and whence the 
 spectator has a most delightful view of the fruitful valleys of Chios, 
 the Asiatic coast, and the curiously- formed island of Samos — the 
 monastery is five hundred years old, and dedicated to St. Minas ; it 
 is now inhabited by twenty monks ; we were received here very 
 hospitably, and shewn by a member of the fraternity their church. 
 
scio. 29 
 
 Our guide did not forget to kiss most devoutly the different pictures 
 which adorned the wall, and particularly one representing the 
 guardian saint on horseback ; he set before us good wine and fruit, 
 but seemed in a state of most deplorable and extraordinary igno- 
 rance. At our departure he shewed us some beautiful mastic, of 
 which he had several ochas ; he wished to sell it at nine piastres the 
 ocha. 
 
 Chios by its position and fertility has more than once suffered 
 from invasions, and, however low she may now rank as a nation, was 
 in former ages a strenuous advocate of liberty, and a vigorous de- 
 fender of her own rights. I need hardly mention that Chios is one 
 of the towns which disputed the honour of having given birth to 
 the prince of poets. A curious monument of antiquity is shewn 
 on the north-eastern shore of the island ; it is termed the school of 
 Homer, for every old stone at Scio bears the name of Homer, whose 
 natal village and tomb are seriously pointed out to the traveller. 
 This school consists only in a few steps hewn in a rock, on the top 
 of which stands a sort of pedestal : some antiquaries have supposed 
 it to be the remains of a temple consecrated to Ceres 
 
 The wine of Scio is mawkish and sweet, a fact which will, per- 
 haps, not a little surprise him who is accustomed to read the praises 
 lavished on the nectar* of this island by the ancients. Is it no longer 
 the same, or is the taste of modern drinkers different from that of the 
 Romans? 
 
 While we were in the port of St. Helen, a Turkish frigate, one 
 
 * " Et multo imprimis hilarans convivia Baccho, 
 
 " Ante focum, si frigus erit ; si messis in umbra ; 
 
 " Vina novum fundam calathis Arvisia nectar." 
 Arviswn was a promontory of the island of Chios ; according to the description of Strabo it 
 was close to the bay of St. Helen, where our schooner anchored ; the whole of the country in that 
 neighbourhood is one continued vineyard. The best wine made in the Archipelago is that of 
 Tenedos. Much juice of the grape is annually imported from the Archipelago into Portugal ; 
 there it is manufactured into port wine, and then sent to England : not to annihilate entirely the 
 faith with which most Englishmen drink their wine, I must observe that this I heard from the 
 sailors of some merchant ships who pretended to have served in the trade, but not from any of tho 
 islanders. 
 
30 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 of those which the Othman government keeps constantly in the 
 Archipelago to awe the pirates, anchored near us : her crew was 
 more numerous than skilful. Masts, shrouds, and sails were literally 
 covered with men, who accompanied their work with most barbarous 
 and discordant yells in imitation of the shouts of European sailors. 
 As soon as she had cast anchor red banners were displayed on all 
 her masts, a signal of approaching exactions to the unfortunate in- 
 habitants of the shore. The cattle was immediately driven to the 
 neighbouring village, and the fields, which had just been covered 
 with industrious peasants, were now deserted. We saw soon after 
 the boat of the frigate put off for the shore, where numerous baskets 
 were filled with grapes and figs, none of the Greeks daring to make 
 any resistance. 
 
 In a country where astrology holds the place of astronomy, it 
 would be folly to expect the nautical art to make any progress. Nor 
 to the Turks would a knowledge of the principles of navigation be 
 attended with much advantage ; tyrannical masters of the finest 
 parts of Europe, they find but little want of extending their com- 
 mercial voyages farther than Alexandria, which port may be reached 
 from Constantinople without once losing sight of land, or being out 
 of the reach of some secure harbour. No longer susceptible of that 
 ambition which more than once made Europe tremble before the 
 Othman crescent, they seem to have abandoned all idea of acting 
 on the offensive ; a navy, therefore, Avhich might cause the Turkish 
 flag to be respected beyond the straits of Gibraltar, is neither known 
 nor desired by the modern Turk. I have spoken to many Turkish 
 and Greek sailors, and never found that they had even an idea 
 of the variation of the compass : there is, at Tophana, in the 
 arsenal, a school of navigation supported by Government, but very 
 thinly attended, in which are preserved some charts, a few globes, 
 and some naval instruments;* this institution is immediately under 
 
 * Kitmir, the name of the dog of the Seven Sleepers, much venerated by the Moslems, is 
 traced on the walls of this school : Kitmir takes under his special protection sailors and couriers, 
 ships and letters. 
 
scio; ■ 31 
 
 the superintendànce of the Captain Pashà, who nominates the 
 choja or master, generally a renegado engineer. If I have been 
 rightly informed, the present master of the academy, who is also 
 astronomer to the Sultan, was originally an English merchant 
 established at Malta, but was forced to quit that place, it having 
 been discovered that he was addicted to a vice which disgraces 
 ancient history, and pollutes the southern parts of Europe. 
 
 The food of the inhabitants of Chios is generally fresh fruit in 
 summer and dried in winter. While we were here the roofs of the 
 houses were covered with split figs, exposed to dry in the sun, and 
 bunches of grapes were hung up to be preserved for winter. In the 
 town are seen, at the different shops, large masses of black caviary, 
 the prepared spawn of the sturgeon. 
 
 The vines are cultivated, some on trellises, others on the ground) 
 without any support ; the bunches are sometimes very large ; so 
 much so indeed, that after once seeing them, one is perfectly con* 
 vinced of the possibility of a bunch of grapes being so heavy as to 
 require the exertions of two men to raise it from the ground. The 
 fig trees grow apparently without much culture : they are planted on 
 the road side and in the vineyards. I observed in all the trees chap- 
 lets of wild figs hung on the branches, and we at first supposed that 
 they had been placed there rather through superstitious than useful 
 motives. Certain insects are produced in the wild figs when putrid, 
 and these entering the eye of the cultivated fig hasten its maturity : 
 this practice, known by the name of caprification, was common 
 among the Romans, and has been described by their great natu- 
 ralist Pliny. ' ' Caprificus vocatur è sylvestri genere ficus nunquam 
 maturescens, sed quod ipsa non habet tribuens : quoniam est natu- 
 ralis causarum transitus atque è putrescentibus identidèm generatur 
 aliquid. Ergo culices parit : hi fraudati alimento in matre putri 
 ejus tabe ad cognatam volant, morsuque ficorum crebro hoc est, avi- 
 diore pastu, aperientes ora earum, atque ita penetrantes intus, solem 
 primo secum inducunt cerealesque auras immittunt foribus apertis. 
 Mox lacteum humorem, hoc est infantiam pomi absumunt quod fit 
 
32 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 et sponte. Ide^que ficetis caprificus permittitur ad rationem venti, 
 ut flatus evolantes in ficus ferat." In the south of France I have 
 seen the peasants prick the eye of the figs with a needle dipped in 
 oil : this practice, they say, accelerates the ripening of the fruit; it 
 certainly might be tried in England. 
 
 Chios was given to the Genoese by Andronicus Palaelogus. In 
 the year 1566, under the reign of Solyman, Pialo Bashà, with eighty 
 triremes, attacked the island, under pretence that it had refused to 
 pay the tribute. The prefect and senators were, with their families, 
 sent in chains to Constantinople, the image of St. George was torn 
 down, and on the ruins of the cross the Moslems erected their 
 crescent. — Martin Crusius. 
 
 While the island was in the power of the Genoese, many families 
 of the Romish church transplanted themselves thither from Venice 
 and other provinces of Italy, and having brought the religion of 
 their country with them, transmitted it down to their latest posterity. 
 They enjoyed not only the free exercise of their religion, and the 
 same privileges with the rest of the inhabitants, but also had built 
 more churches, and by the assistance and authority of the ambas- 
 sadors of France, and of princes devoted to the see of Rome, had 
 obtained from the Othman court more immunities and prerogatives 
 than the rest of the subjects of the same empire. Afterwards, a war 
 arising between the Turks and Venetians, the people I am speaking 
 of performed the office of spies to the Republic of Venice; and 
 whatever was done without the Turkish fleet, either at Constantinople 
 or in the isles, an account ol it was industriously sent by them to the 
 admiral of the enemy's fleet. At last their spirits were raised upon 
 the conquest of all the Morea by the Venetians, and they began to 
 think of putting their island under St. Mark's banners. The better 
 to accomplish their design, though they were already possessed of 
 the best parts of the island, they thought it advisable to sound the 
 inclinations of the Greeks, that they might not receive from them an 
 
scio. 33 
 
 unexpected obstacle to their designs. Bui not daring to disclose 
 openly their intention, they do in private discourse undervalue 
 the strength of the Turks, and overrate that of the Venetians, say- 
 ing, there was reason to fear, that after the sea was cleared of the 
 Turkish fleet, the Republic would make herself mistress of all the 
 islands in the Archipelago. Therefore it would be advisable, be- 
 fore summer, to ingratiate themselves with the Venetians, by send- 
 ing a letter to their admiral, to intreat him to protect a people of 
 the same religion with him against foreigners, and (if it could be) 
 that a Christian should appear to the assistance of Christians. This 
 advice was not relished by the Greeks, both because they suspected 
 the faith of the Venetians, and also believed that they could receive 
 but little protection from the Venetians, who were at so great a dis- 
 tance, against the present power of the Turks. But foreseeing that 
 the Latins would, without their concurrence, attempt something in 
 favour of the Venetians, they sent word to Huseim Pashà, who was 
 at that time admiral of the Turks, that they would remain faithful 
 to the Othman court, even to death ; but they had many Latins 
 among them, united with the Venetians by consanguinity and reli- 
 gion, for whose fidelity they could not answer. They had in this a 
 double view, namely, if their town was taken by the Venetians, and 
 recovered by the Turks, they might have the excuse ready at hand, 
 that they gave the admiral notice of it, and withal might not destroy 
 their fellow citizens, who, if the thing should come to be known by 
 the Turks, would be exposed to the most cruel torments. But be- 
 fore this letter could reach Huseim Pashà, the Latins, having infor- 
 mation of the matter, and thinking there was no time to lose, de- 
 spatched a swift frigate to the Venetian admiral, and entreated him 
 by all that was sacred, to come as soon as possible to their assist- 
 ance ; that their designs being now discovered, they were utterly 
 undone if he made the least delay ; and he had no occasion to fear 
 any thing, for the town was quite defenceless, without soldiers, with- 
 out ammunition or provisions, and, rent by factions, wanted nothing 
 to make it surrender but the sight of the enemy's fleet. 
 
 F 
 
34 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Upon receipt of this message the Venetian admiral sails to Chios 
 with all expedition, and finds the town, as the Latins had repre- 
 sented, destitute of all things necessary for sustaining a siege, 
 attacks it, and obliges it in a few days to surrender. At that time 
 Damad, or Shahdar Hassan Pashà lived there, not as a governor, 
 having been sent thither by the Sultan to get a maintenance out of 
 the revenues of the island until he could be provided with a pashalic. 
 This man, finding the general want of all things made the defence 
 of the place impracticable, asked the Mufti,* who lived there as an 
 exile, whether a Moslem could, with a safe conscience, deliver 
 up to the Christians, a place that had no soldiers to defend it, in 
 order to preserve the Mohammedan inhabitants ? And receiving the 
 fetvah, that the good thereby done to so many Moslems would 
 blot out the sin committed against the law of the Koran by the de- 
 livery of the place, he surrenders the place to the Venetians, upon 
 certain conditions, on the fourth day of the siege. After the taking 
 of the place, the Venetians, grown more insolent, equally exercise 
 cruelties upon the Turks and the Greeks ; and knowing of the mes- 
 
 * The Mufti of Constantinople is the highest prelate of the Othman empire, and as the Koran 
 is the only body of laws followed by the Moslems, the Mufti is also the head of the law. He 
 it is who consecrates the new Sultan, girds him with the sabre of Othman, and performs the last 
 offices to expiring royalty. The decisions of the Mufti are of the highest importance in the state, 
 they are called fetvahs, and by the devout are regarded as emanating from the Deity himself : 
 more than once the Sultan has used the Mufti's fetva to surround his actions with the cloud of 
 spiritual authority : more than once the Mufti's fetva has torn the prince from his throne, and has 
 proved that superstition prevails over despotism. 
 
 The fetva is given to private individuals gratis, and in the case of a dispute between two per- 
 sons, each of the contending parties applies for a fetva to the Mufti's office : the meiceleh, or 
 question, is written on a small piece of paper, and left at the office ; it is returned on the follow- 
 ing day, having on the back the answer, expressed with that conciseness which characterises the 
 language of business ; unlike the oracles of Paganism, or the decisions of European lawyers, 
 these answers are sufficiently clear to decide the matter, and to preclude the necessity of any 
 farther inquiry. I have added two instances of the fetva : 
 
 Meiceleh, or Question — May a man mairy his mother-in-law? 
 
 Fetva, or Answer — No. God knows what is best. 
 
 Meiceleh — How is suicide to be considered? 
 
 Fetva — As a much more serious crime than murder, God knows tchat is best, 
 
scio. 35 
 
 sage sent by the latter to Huseim Pashà, they shut up all their 
 churches, confiscate the goods of many, forbid the Grecian priests 
 the exercise of their functions and the administration of the sacra- 
 ments, and will suffer none but the Latins to confess dying Greeks 
 or to baptize infants. The Grecians use intreaties, tears, and even 
 presents, and desire only the free use of their churches and of their 
 religious worship, but all to no purpose ; they can obtain nothing, 
 and are ordered to frequent the Romish churches, unless they had a 
 mind to pass for rebels and despisers of divine worship. But this 
 insolence of the Latins did not remain long unpunished. For the 
 next year the Venetians, being driven out of the island by Mezzo- 
 morto, the Latins earnestly desired to be re-admitted into that fra- 
 ternity whence they had excluded Greeks ; but, far from obtaining 
 their request, they could hardly avoid the most severe punishment. 
 
 It is a law in the Othman empire, that every country that has 
 been but three hours in the possession of the enemy, is taken away 
 from the ancient owners, and confiscated to the Sultan's treasury, 
 unless the inhabitants redeem it at a set price. In conformity to 
 this custom, a fine of fifteen hundred purses being set upon the 
 whole island, the Greeks, who were quite oppressed with so great 
 a burden, send a petition to the Sultan, representing that before 
 Damascus was conquered by the Moslem arms, they paid tribute 
 to the governors of the empire, and from that time had never re- 
 fused to pay it, nor attempted any thing to the prejudice of the 
 state ; that they were not the authors of the late calamity, but the 
 Latins, who were united with the Venetians in blood and religion, 
 had betrayed their town to the enemy. Lastly, they pray, that, in 
 consideration of their perpetual fidelity to the Othman empire, the 
 sum laid upon them may be lessened ; and to the end that they may 
 live with greater safety in the island, that the Latins may be de- 
 prived of the privileges of citizens ; or, if that could not be, that the 
 Sultan would grant them some desert island, where, leaving their 
 country, they would willingly go and settle with their wives and 
 
 F2 
 
36 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 children ; for they chose rather to live poorly and quietly, than to 
 be in perpetual fear of losing their lives and estates. Finally, they 
 add, that it was impossible for them to be safe in the island, as long 
 as they remained mixed with the Latin inhabitants, who had lately 
 betrayed the town to the Venetians, and would again assist them to 
 recover the same. In the mean time Huseim Pashà, who was ad- 
 miral when Chios was taken by the Venetians, had been raised to 
 the dignity of Prime Vizir, and he, being asked by the Sultan, de- 
 clared what the Greeks alleged was true, and mentioned, at the 
 same time, the information they had formerly given him. The 
 Sultan hearing the truth of the case, reduces the fine upon the 
 island to five hundred purses, but condemns all the Latins to the 
 galleys, and orders all their effects to be distributed among the 
 Greeks. And this rigorous sentence, justly due to their unheard-of 
 cruelty, would have actually been put in execution, had it not been 
 for the French ambassador, who, partly by his credit, partly by 
 money, got them exempted from the galleys, which he could upon 
 no other condition, but that they should publicly renounce the 
 Romish religion, and declare themselves members of the Greek 
 church : by which means there is not at present the least sign of a 
 Papist in Chios. — Cantemir. 
 
 The Mezzomorto who retook Chios was an African, born of 
 Moorish parents, who, in his youth, exercised piracy in the Mediter- 
 ranean from the port of Tunis, and by that rendered himself very 
 famous. He was at last overpowered in an engagement with the 
 Spaniards, and taken by them, when he received so grievous a 
 wound that his life was despaired of, and upon this occasion the 
 name of Mezzomorto (half dead) was given him, which he retained 
 ever after : for he recovered from the wound, and after seventeen 
 years' imprisonment, being redeemed by his countrymen, returned 
 to his old trade, and did great damage to the Christians. He was 
 afterwards, for his good services, made captain of a galley, and at 
 last commander of the whole Turkish fleet. Being brought to 
 
scio. 37 
 
 Adrinople, when the Sultan was going to confer upon him the 
 honour of admiral and three thoughs,* he particularly desired to 
 have leave to instruct the sailors and marine forces in the art of 
 fighting at sea, and bind them to some certain regulations ; and not 
 to be obliged, on account of the honour of Vizir conferred upon 
 him, to quit his sailor's habit, both which requests he obtained. 
 The Vizirs often tried to prevail upon him to change his dress, 
 telling him that so mean a habit was unsuitable to his dignity, but 
 he always remained immoveable; and when they pressed him, he used 
 to tell them, that he thought it much more unsuitable for the fleet of 
 so great an empire to be left a prey to a few fishermen, (for so he 
 always called the Venetians) which disgrace was owing to nothing 
 but this, that the latter minded arms, and the ministers of the former 
 minded nothing but dress and finery ; that for his part he made the 
 honour of Vizir, bestowed upon him by the Sultan, to consist not 
 in dress but in bravery, and would shew how much the most slo- 
 venly men excel the best dressed ladies. — Cantemir. 
 
 * The though is a horse's tail, stained red, and stuck upon a pole, with a gilt knob at the top : 
 this is one of the military ensigns of the Turks, and the dignity of a Vizir is determined by the 
 number of these horses' tails which he is allowed to carry before him. Besides the though, each 
 dozen of men has, when on march, a small standard, the number of which causes the army to be 
 crowded with flag-bearers, who in battle are worse than useless : the Turkish soldiers think it no 
 disgrace to lose their colours, excepting, however, the holy banner of Mohammed, which in battle 
 is kept at a convenient distance from the field, and at the first appearance of a defeat is precipi- 
 tately removed. The Janissaries conceive military glory to consist in a strenuous defence of 
 their kettles and spoons. — Quid rides? Is it more rational to place honour in the defence of a 
 piece of tattered silk, or of a monstrous two-headed black eagle ? 
 
TROAS. 
 
 LESBOS — TROAS VAST RUINS — THRESHING OF CORN — DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS — THE 
 
 INHABITANTS — SOLYMANEH — TENEDOS — MOUNT ATHOS. 
 
 W E were treated with great civility by the inhabitants : with a tra- 
 veller mentioned by Martin Crusius, we might observe " Le belle 
 donne e leggiadre donzelle di Chio ci usarono ógni cortesia e 
 honesta liberalità. Si che ardisco ben dire, e con verità affermare, 
 ch'io non credo hauer ueduto in nessuno luogo, oue io sia stato, 
 gente più amoreuole e ciuile, ne che più cerchi con ogni honestà di 
 acquistar la gratia de' forestieri, di questa." 
 
 Having beaten up between Scio and the gulf of Smyrna, a 
 passage sometimes dangerous on account of the sudden gusts of 
 wind produced by the mountains of the island, we arrived near 
 Mitylene, (Lesbos) formerly famed as the country of Sappho, and 
 celebrated among the modern Greeks as the birth-place of a heroine, 
 Morylla, who boldly resisted the Turkish invaders, a long time 
 before they became masters of the island. We were two days 
 tacking against the Tramontana, or north wind, during which we 
 were constantly in sight of the hills of the island : on the evening 
 of the second day we anchored on the Asiatic shore with many 
 other merchant ships, not able to face the wind or stem the current 
 of the Hellespont. 
 
 We were a little to the south-east of the island of Tenedos; 
 the shore opposite to us was covered with ruins, some of which were 
 very plainly discernible from the deck of our ship. These were 
 called by ancient travellers the ruins of Troy, and they are still 
 marked as such on the marine charts : they have been proved by 
 inscriptions found in many parts of the shore, to have belonged to 
 the Troas mentioned by Pliny, in whose time it was a Roman 
 colony, and had been successively called Antigonia and Alexandria. 
 
TROAS. 39 
 
 Early in the morning we hastened on shore, the mariners for the 
 purpose of seeking wood, and we travellers with the design of view- 
 ing the ruins. We landed on a shallow strand, and directing our 
 steps towards the north, were gratified by the sight of the vast re- 
 mains of a city, once, doubtless, the seat of commerce and the 
 receptacle of riches ; now offering to the eye of the passing sailor 
 nought but its wreck — a wreck, however, more than sufficient to 
 astonish him who reverts to past ages. One prostrate column on the 
 shore particularly merits that attention, which, in its secluded situ- 
 ation, is not unlikely to escape. One of our party had the curiosity 
 to measure it : he found it fifty feet in length and eight in diameter. 
 For the space of nearly a mile the remains of a stupendous wall are 
 seen crowning the clifts which over-hang the passer's head. At the 
 end of this is seen an inclosed basin, about four hundred fathoms in 
 circumference. It offers two openings to the sea, and is surrounded 
 by columns, arches, and other remains of antiquity. All around on 
 its borders was a coat of reddish-coloured salt, at least ten inches 
 thick, and produced by the heat of the sun. The inhabitants use it 
 for culinary purposes. Places in which salt was naturally formed 
 are mentioned by Strabo as existing in this vicinity : k«/ to T^ymoLm 
 
 Near this basin, which is supposed to have been the port of the 
 town, are built three or four miserable Turkish huts : before each is 
 an enclosed farm-yard, swarming with fowls : each family has a small 
 cart, drawn by oxen, and similar in every respect to the Irish cars. 
 The peasants were threshing and winnowing their corn : for this 
 purpose the wheat-ears were cut short, and strewed under the hoofs 
 of a horse which beat out the grain : the wind served to separate the 
 chaff, and a Turk measured it, pronouncing as he threw the corn in 
 the heap, the number of the measure. Under a neighbouring oak 
 was seated, on a carpet, a Turkish gentleman, to whom this land 
 belonged : he was smoking, but when we made our appearance he 
 politely saluted us, laying his right hand on his breast, and having 
 invited us to take a seat by him, offered cordially his pipe ; this we 
 
40 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 refused, not being yet accustomed to the forms of Eastern polite- 
 ness : he then gave some short order to one of his servants, and a 
 profusion of grapes and bread was laid before us. The bread was 
 full of sand, and the grapes were sour, but this was not to diminish 
 our gratitude towards this hospitable Musuhnan : we thanked him 
 by signs, and taking one of the peasants, who spoke a few words of 
 Greek, for a guide, we proceeded to examine the other ruins of this 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Troas is situated at about an hour's distance from the village of 
 Eski-Stambol (old Constantinople :) it was for a long time sup- 
 posed to be built on the site of Troy : Pietro de la Valle, who was 
 denominated "the famous traveller," and Beloe, " assert, with much 
 confidence, that it is Troy; and use, with so much pleasure, their 
 imaginations on the subject, that they have made of every great 
 tree a Hector, an Achilles, or an iEneas, and of all the bushes that 
 pricked their legs, their armies, exclaiming : 
 
 " Hie Dolopum man us: hie srevus tendebat Achilles: 
 " Classibus hie locus : hie acies certare solebant." 
 
 The ruins are, however, Roman, and consist partly of brick and 
 partly of stone : the bricks are united with cement, hard, but not 
 so much so as that used by the Roman architects in Italy : the co- 
 lumns are of granite, and consist of one piece only : many of them 
 are strewed about in the woods. The most remarkable among the 
 buildings are the remains of a theatre, of a bath or thermae, and an 
 under-ground passage, which crosses the site of the town, from its 
 highest part to the sea: we supposed that it had been used as a 
 sewer. Two inscriptions were shewn to us; they had just been dis- 
 covered: one was on a stone coffin, the other was engraved on the 
 pedestal of a statue. The inscriptions mentioned by Wheeler and 
 Spon are still partly seen : but as this country has much suffered by 
 earthquakes, the pedestals on which they were found have been 
 nearly buried. 
 
 The celebrated mosque of Constantinople, erected by So- 
 leyman, and called after him Soleymaney, was embellished 
 
TROAS. 41 
 
 with the ruins of Troas — columns of porphyry and granite were 
 sawed into slabs, and the finest white marble was calcined to 
 make lime. It was when encamped at Troas that the son of Orchan 
 first thought of crossing the Hellespont, and pitching his camp in 
 Europe. Heaven grant that the period be not distant in which the 
 Moslems shall once more strike their tents to return, with their su- 
 perstitious despotism, into their native Asia. 
 
 The land of Troas is covered with Velani oaks, which grow 
 without culture ; and the acorns, being used in dying, constitute one 
 great source of the riches of the inhabitants : a few vineyards and 
 some fields of lentils and pumpkins are seen here and there : the 
 white skeleton of a horse's head, exhibited on a pole, preserves each 
 inclosure from the attacks of the birds ; mastiffs are used to keep 
 off the more dangerous biped purloiners. At every step we raised 
 vast flights of game, and we were shewn, in a thicket, the haunt of a 
 wild boar which had lately been killed. 
 
 Our guide, Mohammed, was a fine elderly man : his family con- 
 sisted of two girls and one little boy, on whom he seemed to doat 
 with true paternal fondness. Around his hut hung a great quantity 
 of tobacco leaves ; these he cut into the proper shape with his clasp 
 knife, when he wanted to indulge in a pipe. His dress was manly, 
 adapted to the climate and to laborious employment : a white tur- 
 ban, an open cloth jacket, loose blue drawers, supported by a red 
 sash, and a pair of papouches, constituted his whole toilet. His 
 observations were not a little tinctured with superstition : we ob- 
 served a long subterraneous arch-way ; this he gravely assured us 
 was the habitation of the devil, and he took care to stand at a re- 
 spectful distance while we examined it. His wife, for he had but 
 one, worked in the fields : a long robe covered her body, and 
 round her head was wrapped a white cloth, which hindered any 
 thing but her eyes from being visible. 
 
 Mohammed shewed us the ruins of Troas, and a small hillock 
 at its north, probably one of the mounts on which the holy banner 
 of the prophet was unfurled : it lately figured much in the classic 
 
 G 
 
42 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 world. He afterwards accompanied us on the shore northward, 
 where we saw, about a quarter of a mile from the sea, among the 
 brambles and squill flowers, some stones which seemed to indicate 
 the site of an ancient town or village, probably the Nee of Pliny. 
 
 We pursued our searches no further, but returned the same way 
 that Ave had come; the whole shore is covered with sand, which offers 
 no resistance to the feet ; at every moment we sunk in it up to our 
 knees : our shoes were constantly filled with small stones, and the 
 heat of the sun was great ; you may easily conceive, therefore, that 
 our first visit did not much prepossess us in favour of the kingdom 
 of Priam. 
 
 Our sailors had shot many birds and collected a good quantity 
 of wood : prone to mischief, like the uneducated classes in all 
 countries, they would not depart for the schooner before they had 
 set fire to the thicket in which they had been cutting : as they rowed 
 onwards, they eyed, with the greatest pleasure, the progress of the 
 flames up the cliffs, forgetting, that were the wind to change, their 
 amusement might involve many of their fellow-creatures in the 
 deepest distress. 
 
 On the following morning our captain resolved to approach 
 nearer to the mouth of the Hellespont: the tri-coloured Russian 
 flag was hoisted at the mast-head, and we hove anchor. Many 
 ships were riding between Tenedos and the continent ; as we passed 
 them they returned the salute of our flag, and thereby declared to 
 what nation they belonged. We had wished to visit the port of 
 Tenedos, the statio mala fida carinis, but the wind would not allow 
 us to approach the island : we since learnt that the plague was at 
 that time committing great havock among the inhabitants, and 
 this gave us reason to thank Providence that we did not land. 
 Tenedos produces a very good wine, much esteemed at Constan- 
 tinople : from its vicinity to the Hellespont it has often been the 
 scene of contention between different armies : the Greeks, the 
 Trojans, the Turks, the Venetians, and the Russians, have all 
 fought near this ill-fated island : its town is small, situate near the 
 
TROAS. 
 
 43 
 
 strand, and guarded by a white fort, on which the broad red banner 
 of the Turks floats day and night. The port is well defended from the 
 Tramontana gales, but it offers little shelter when other winds blow. 
 
 In the evening we anchored again near the Asiatic shore, and 
 opposite to an agreeably-wooded spot, watered by a rivulet, sup- 
 posed to be the Scamander navigabilis of Pliny, a stream which 
 must not be confounded with the Scamander of Homer ; this latter 
 flowed into the Hellespont. Near us we saw the wrecks of three 
 foundered ships ; our place of anchorage was not, therefore, very 
 safe ; notwithstanding its dangers, few classical enthusiasts would 
 have refused to be of our party : imagine yourself so placed that to 
 your right should be seen the isle of Lesbos, and the ruins of 
 Alexandria of Troas ; opposite, the Troie plain, commanded by the 
 range of Ida : to your left the entrance into the Hellespont and the 
 high lands of Imbros and Samothrace : behind, Mount Athos, 
 rearing its distant and lofty head above the low hills of Lemnos and 
 Tenedos — add to this union of classic spots, the embellishments of 
 an Eastern sun-set, and you may possibly form some faint idea of a 
 scene, perhaps not to be equalled in the world for its beauties, and 
 certainly not for the crowd of recollections which are produced by its 
 contemplation — Helen, Paris, Hector, Achilles, Ulysses, iEneas, 
 Xerxes, Miltiades, rush, as it were magically, before the mind. 
 
 Mount Athos is now called monte santo, or to agio vouno, (tò iyio 
 /5avo) " the holy mountain," from the number of convents and her- 
 mitages which cover its brow : it is plainly visible from the Asiatic 
 coast at sun-set, and not at other times : reflecting the red rays of 
 the sun, it appears as a huge mass of burnished gold, and adds con- 
 siderably to the sublimity of the scenery. 
 
 G2 
 
ILIUM AND THE TROIC PLAIN 
 
 OPINION OF THE ANCIENTS ON THE SITE OF TROY — DISCOVERY OF LE CHEVALIER — THE 
 
 SCENERY DESCRIBED— LANDING DESCRIPTION OF THE SHORE — BOUNAR-BASHI — 
 
 SCAMANDER — ITS WARM SPRINGS. 
 
 AS we were near to the plain regarded both by ancients and by 
 moderns as that on which Ilium stood, you may readily conceive 
 that we did not neglect the opportunity which we now had of seeing 
 with our own eyes, if not the Simoeis, the Scamander, and the Per- 
 gamus, at least the general features of a country, which, says Cha- 
 teaubriand, " has had the rare privilege of inspiring two of the best 
 poets human genius boasts, Homer and Virgil." 
 
 The precise site of Troy was long an object of dispute among 
 the ancient critics ; Strabo, in the thirteenth book of his geo- 
 graphy, gives a most accurate account of the country, and after 
 throwing forth many hints, which, in modern times, have been 
 made good use of, leaves the question undecided. Demetrius, a 
 native of Skepsis, a town situate not far from Alexandria of Troas, 
 passed his life in an unsuccessful search for the spot, and only con- 
 cluded that the town in his days called Ilium, could not be, accord- 
 ing to the description of Homer, upon the same spot as the ancient 
 city of Priam. 
 
 This Ilium, of which the ruins are pretty well determined, was 
 placed near the sea : its Acropolis was shewn as the Pergamus of 
 Troy. To the north of the hill on which it was erected, flowed a 
 small rivulet, which they denominated the Simoeis ; it united with 
 a stream, or rather river, which rolled its waters down the plain 
 from mount Ida, and thr^w itself into the Hellespont : this river 
 was called the Scamander. Pliny, in his geographical description 
 of the world, mentions this modern Ilium in a manner which proves, 
 
ILIUM AND THE TROIC PLAIN. 45 
 
 beyond a doubt, that he regarded it as built on the site of ancient 
 Troy. 
 
 Till the last century the question remained undecided, as Strabo 
 had left it: but in the year 1785, Le Chevalier, an accurate and 
 laborious traveller, discovered a spot in the plain, or rather at the 
 foot of Ida, which seemed better to answer the description of the 
 poet : it was a hill near the village of Bounar-Bàshi which he chose 
 for his Pergamus : the river, which before every traveller had re- 
 garded as the Scamander, was now proved to be the Simoeis, and 
 the former Simoeis remained without a name : much was said con- 
 cerning the hot and warm sources of the newly-found Scamander. 
 Other travellers, with an imagination less heated, visited this spot ; 
 they found the distance from Bounar-Bàshi to the Hellespont too 
 great; they discovered that the sources of the new Scamander, instead 
 of being one warm and the other cold, were both warm : many 
 difficulties were raised against the system of Le Chevalier, and re- 
 butted with warmth by his friends. Two parties immediately divided 
 the classic world; one contended for the truth of the minute and often 
 fanciful details of Le Chevalier; while others denied the truth of many 
 of the most important facts brought forward by that geographist. 
 Both parties were violent, and, as generally happens in such cases, 
 equivocation took the place of truth, passion that of argument. 
 
 To conciliate the two parties is a task which I have neither the 
 wish nor the talent to perform ; I have too often experienced that 
 when once discord has reared her head in religion, in politics, or in 
 literature, argument is the last instrument to which resort must be 
 had to check its influence — blustering ignorance generally crushes 
 one of the factions, and the tyranny of the other necessarily ensures 
 a temporary quiet. When I visited the plain of Ilium I had heard 
 but little of the dispute in question. I indeed knew that some per- 
 sons had endeavoured to prove the Trojan war a fable; but I rejected 
 the idea as a Christian does that of infidelity, from which, in future life, 
 he guesses much harm may perhaps accrue, while with certainty he 
 knows that no bad effects can ensue from his adhering to the tenets 
 
46 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 of his ancestors. If it be proved that the truth of the main facts 
 contained in the Iliad is chimerical, what will become of the history 
 attached to them ? Are we to betray to all-devouring scepticism so 
 many interesting records ? If we prove that Helen, that Paris, that 
 Achilles, that Troy itself never existed, the interest felt in reading 
 the works of Homer must necessarily be diminished, the pleasure 
 will be no longer so great, and the bard, whose poems have nearly 
 exhausted the whole fund of human knowledge, would be more 
 neglected than even he now is — Apollo and the muses defend us 
 from so dire a misfortune ! 
 
 The scenery, as to the islands, the seas, the mountains, or, in a 
 few words, as to its general features, corresponds, certainly as much as 
 one can expect, with the description of Homer ; Lemnos, Imbros, 
 Tenedos, Ida y the Chersonesus and the Hellespont, are found in the 
 same relative situation as a cursory reader of the Iliad would ima- 
 gine them to be placed ; the plain itself, however, did not answer 
 my expectations — I did not, certainly, hope to be able to distinguish 
 the very walls of the town ; as well might I have expected to have 
 seen the Greek ships arranged upon the strand, or Hector and Achilles 
 striding over the fields ; but I thought I should have seen some 
 eminence worthy of being the Pergamus — some river worthy of 
 being called the Scamander : the usual fate of classic travellers 
 awaited me — I was disappointed. 
 
 The water was so shallow that we found it impossible to land 
 with dry feet ; the sailors offered to carry us on their backs to the 
 shore : the experiment was first tried by an unfortunate Florentine, 
 who, during the whole voyage, had suffered much from sea- sick- 
 ness, a disorder ever the subject of ridicule among sailors : he 
 mounted the broad shoulders of one of our Istrian seamen, but 
 hardly had he rode fifty yards in this style, before a well -pretended 
 stumble threw him headlong into the sea — " experientia docet," 
 we tucked up our trowsers, threw off our stockings and shoes, and, 
 with praiseworthy ardour, waded to the land. 
 
 Tracks of hard white sand, diversified in a few spots by bunches 
 
ILIUM AND THE TROIC PLAIN. 47 
 
 of squills in bloom, and some scorched shrubs, on which herds of 
 buffaloes and camels browsed, were the only objects on which the 
 eye could rest ; at the distance of about a mile we descried a few 
 houses, agreeably surrounded with green trees; thither we hastened; 
 it was a very small village, of which I have forgotten even the name; 
 a rivulet, overgrown with verdant shrubs, turned a mill ; we en- 
 tered it, having crossed the stream on a bridge made with mar- 
 ble columns ; a Turk was sitting within the mill, and amidst the 
 clatter of the wheels and the clouds of farinaceous dust, he was 
 smoking his long pipe, and superintending the making of some 
 bread — the loaves were kneaded in the shape of a flat cake, stamped 
 with curious figures, and the dirty hands of a Greek besmeared the 
 surface with a beaten egg. The captain of our schooner purchased 
 here a sheep ; its tail was about two feet long and one broad. I did 
 not find, however, that part of the animal more delicious than any 
 other ; indeed it is nothing but a mass of fat, and notwithstanding 
 the high estimation in which Turks and Greeks hold these sheep's 
 tails, they are always, by the English sailors, melted down into 
 dripping, nor is this the only instance of contrariety of taste among 
 men: game is never eaten by the Moslem, although we regard it as 
 a delicacy, and, for its preservation, scruple not to oppose the na- 
 tural rights of man. 
 
 A peasant offered to conduct us to the spot whence the columns 
 which we had just seen had been brought ; we followed him, and 
 after ascending about a quarter of an hour, we arrived on an ex- 
 tensive plain, from which an enchanting prospect presented itself; 
 the view stretched to an immense distance up the Hellespont ; on 
 the shores many ships were riding at anchor, bound by. the Etesian 
 gales ; the Chersonesus was seen on the left ; and on the right the 
 chain of Ida extended from the shore of the iEgean sea, losing it- 
 self on the opposite side in the horizon — this was the plain of Troy, 
 and a more commanding or sublime situation could not have been 
 imagined for the city of Priam. 
 
 I looked anxiously for the Scamander, the Simoeis, the Perga- 
 
48 classical Tour. 
 
 mus ; those objects, if they ever existed, seemed now to have va- 
 nished, for I could see no trace either of a river or an Acropolis. I 
 pronounced to my guide the words Scamander, Simoeis ; as well might 
 I have spoken to him about the Isis and Cherwell ; I could as easily 
 have made him understand what I meant. " Why have you not 
 brought rèi x&ptiu. (a map) with you," replied he with the greatest 
 sangfroid to our impatient questions : it was impossible to remedy 
 the error, and in despair we exclaimed potamos, potamos; the word 
 caught the quick ear of the Greek ; he hurried across the ploughed 
 land, and we followed him as fast as the heat of the sun would al- 
 low : a walk of an hour and a half brought us to a small Turkish 
 village ; it consisted of a few scattered houses, erected at the foot 
 of the chain of Ida, and was prettily adorned with trees ; its name is 
 Bounar -Bàshi, or Spring-head. 
 
 The eminence on which this village is built was once crowned by 
 the Pergamus of ancient Troy — such is the opinion of modern critics, 
 who, with a wonderful intellectual acuteness, honourable to the 
 present times, have discovered the very walls of Troy ; although the 
 Cappadocian Strabo, and the Phrygian Demetrius sought many 
 years its site without success — happy, indeed, are we in being born 
 in this enlightened age : shades of Strabo and Demetrius, how 
 would ye be astonished were ye now to visit our transalpine regions ; 
 how would you blush at your ignorance in having so often paced 
 the Troie plain, without being able to discover even the sources of 
 the Scamander, when before you stood its two fountains, the one 
 pouring forth its stream cold as the drifted snow, the other furnish- 
 ing waters steaming with heat : 
 
 'myycci 
 
 Aotuì òl\) cita a ova i Hattixxvaqov Sivyisvrog. 
 
 'H fj.èv ya.% S' vSari hiayq pési, àjj,(pì Se ntcnvò; 
 
 Ttverai ejj «ùtvj?, à<ret %v%òs uìèojj.évoio' 
 
 'H S" èrtavi 3fffi" tsqoqsa, ehvTx %«Àa|vj, 
 
 "H %ióvi \J/v%fifl, $ é\ vSxrog HfVirr«ÀÀ<j>. 
 
 IA. tf. 
 
ILIUM AND THE TROIC PLAIN. 49 
 
 Next by Scamander's double source they bound, 
 Where two famed fountains burst the parted ground ; 
 This hot, through scorching clefts is seen to rise, 
 With exhalations steaming to the skies ; 
 That the green banks in summer's heat o'erflows, 
 Like crystal clear, and cold as winter snows ; 
 Each gushing fount a marble cistern fills 
 Whose polished bed receives the falling rills. 
 
 Pope's II. xxii. 195. 
 
 The hillock of Bounar-Bàshi is washed on the right by a moun- 
 tain torrent, which, at the time we were here, was nearly dry ; 
 the bed was covered with pebbles washed from the range of 
 Ida, and in a few places a pool of water stagnated among the 
 stones; this is the modern Simoeis. On the left, and nearly at 
 the foot of the same hillock, are two fountains, whose waters 
 spring warm from the rock into a basin, at which the inhabi- 
 tants cleanse their linen ; these two fountains, uniting their streams, 
 form a rivulet, which flows down the plain, overgrown Avith 
 rushes, and at the distance of about two miles and a half loses it- 
 self in a marsh : this they pretend to be the £x«>«v5fov lictSvSivfavTx of 
 Homer ; changed indeed must it be since the days of the poet : 
 then the power of this stream, called by men Scamander, by the 
 Gods Xanthus, was such as to hurl headlong to the Hellespont the 
 corses of the fallen warriors, their helmets, and their chariots ; now 
 its force suffices not to carry its waters to the sea — instead of re- 
 ceiving the most precious gifts of the Trojan virgins, its waters 
 cleanse only the dirty caftans of the neighbouring Turks. 
 
 I will describe no more lest I should entirely destroy your faith 
 in Homer ; I must, however, observe, that the country bears mani- 
 fest proofs of having much suffered from earthquakes ; I can, there- 
 fore, easily conceive that the whole face of the land may have been 
 totally changed since the days of Homer. Strabo affirms, in the 
 most direct manner, that in his days no warm springs were found 
 
 On the plain : OuVf yfy "Sey^x vvv et tq tózsu eÌi^ìtaetui 
 
 T« |xìv oJv &£j(xà <-'xAfAe';$s«< elm;. I should be tempted, therefore, to 
 
 H 
 
50 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 think those which now exist there have been produced by some sub- 
 sequent convulsion of nature. Lucan, in his account of the excur- 
 sion which Caesar made on the Trojan plain, has left us a beautiful 
 description, which is so applicable to the present state of the 
 country, that I cannot forbear transcribing it : 
 
 Sigeasque petit fama? mirator arenas, 
 Et Simoentis aquas, et Grajo nobile busto 
 Rhoetion, et multum debentes vatibus umbras. 
 Circuit exustas nomen memorabile Trojae, 
 Magnaque Phcebei quaerit vestigia muri. 
 Jam silvoe steriles, et putres robore trunci 
 Assaraci pressère domos, et tempia deorum 
 Jam lassa radice tenent : ac tota teguntnr 
 Pergama dumetis : etiam perière ruinae. 
 Aspicit Hesiones scopulos, silvasque latentes 
 Anchisse thalamos ; quo judex sederit antro : 
 Unde puer raptus ccelo : quo vertice Nais 
 Luserit GEnone : nullum est sine nomine saxum. 
 Inscius in sicco serpentelli pulveve rivum 
 Transierat, qui Xanthus erat : securus in alto 
 Gramine ponebat gressus; Phryx incoia manes 
 Hectoreos calcare vetat : discussa jacebant 
 Saxa, nee ullius faciem servanda sacri; 
 Herceas, monstrator ait, non respicis aras ? 
 
 Regretting that the Phrygian cicerones are not now-a-days as 
 communicative as they were in the time of Cassar, we returned to 
 our ship ; the next morning we hove anchor and entered the Hel- 
 lespont. 
 
THE HELLESPONT. 
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE HELLESPONT — COASTS OF ASIA AND EUROPE — TURKISH SOLDIERS 
 
 MAIDA BATTERIES SESTOS ASIATIC DARDANELLES GALLIPOLI LAMPSACUS 
 
 STORM SEA OF MARMORA MOUNT RHODOPE ST. STEPHEN'S CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 A HE entrance of the Hellespont is about a mile and a quarter 
 broad ; it is defended by two forts, called the new castles, to dis- 
 tinguish them from those of the Dardanelles : they are built nearly 
 in the shape of a heart, and avo defended each by about forty-five 
 pieces of cannon, pointed even with the water, the smallest of which 
 is said to be a sixty-pounder. Besides these forts, several batteries 
 crown the heights, near Sigeum and the opposite point of the 
 Thracian Chersonesus : the whole bears a very martial aspect, and 
 seems to threaten immediate destruction to any hostile ship that 
 may dare to intrude on the Othman dominions. 
 
 Going up towards Constantinople, the coast of Asia, gradually 
 rising from the sea to the range of Ida, affords a fine prospect of 
 fertile country. Few traces of human habitation are seen near the 
 shore, the air being in summer very unwholesome ; here and there 
 a yoke of buffaloes drags a car along the sandy road, and now and 
 then a caravan of camels is seen slowly pacing on towards Scutari ; 
 these are the only signs of the country's being inhabited that one 
 meets for miles. The coast of Europe is more abrupt than that of 
 the Asiatic side, but in several parts presents fruitful valleys, thickly 
 inhabited and well cultivated ; the creeks form secure harbours for 
 vessels of any burthen : in one of these we anchored in the evening, 
 and, as the Northern gales re-commenced with increased fury, we 
 were obliged to remain there several days. 
 
 Turkish soldiers, belonging to the garrison at the Dardanelles, 
 were scattered along the coast ; and, as we daily made excursions 
 
 H2 
 
52 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 on the land, we had many opportunities of observing their manners. 
 Several of them had been in the campaign of Egypt ; they shewed 
 us the marks of human blood on their sabres ; it had been suffered 
 to rust on the blade, and they now pointed to it with that ferocious 
 exultation which characterises men educated in the midst of warfare. 
 They seemed to pass all their time in the open air, under the spread- 
 ing branches of some walnut-trees, which shaded the neighbouring 
 fountain : there they sat, drank coffee, cooked, slept, and smoked ; 
 these seemed to be their only occupations, the whole day being by 
 many spent with the pipe in their mouths ; from this silent amuse- 
 ment their features took a stamp of meditation, which, added to the 
 venerable appearance of their long flowing beards, recalled the ob- 
 server's ideas of an ancient patriarch. The hospitality of these 
 men was such as would shame many Christian nations, who, con- 
 tent with the theory of this virtue, leave its practice to the abused 
 Moslem. We were here furnished with abundance of fruit, and 
 with whatever we required ; nor would our new friends accept any 
 remuneration for the trouble we gave them at different times during 
 our stay. 
 
 While we remained in this harbour we took an opportunity of 
 visiting the modern town of JVÌaida, and the probable site of Sestos, 
 situate a little higher up the strait than the castle of the Darda- 
 nelles. The road runs along the shore, and passes through the 
 small town of the European Dardanelles, inhabited almost entirely 
 by those belonging to the garrison of the fort. We saAV the exterior 
 only of the castle, for the interior cannot be seen but by those who 
 have a firman from the Grand Seignior : I have even been informed 
 that travellers, who were provided with the Sovereign's mandate, 
 have experienced many difficulties in seeing the interior of Turkish 
 forts, and have not been screened from the insults of the garrison : 
 indeed one readily conceives that a nation, whose jealousy in the 
 most common transactions of life obliges it to forego even the plea- 
 sures of mutual intercourse, and the advantages derived from so- 
 ciety, will not be willing to expose its internal strength to the obser- 
 
THE HELLESPONT. 53 
 
 vation of the stranger. Whether in public or in private life, the Turk 
 seems ever anxious to hide his actions from the eye of his fellow- 
 creatures; and to this desire of concealment, which seems daily to 
 increase, we may attribute many of the features of national cha- 
 racter which distinguish the Othman subject from those of more 
 northern lands. 
 
 The castle has lately been flanked by a stone battery of forty- 
 three pieces of cannon, built in the form of a crescent : five similar 
 batteries have been erected in the Dardanelles since the expedition 
 of Sir Sydney Smith, but cannon more miserably served than those 
 of the Turks cannot well be imagined. Of a battery of fourteen 
 guns, erected near the supposed site of Sestos, not one was mounted 
 or in a fit state to be fired : near each of the batteries is built a 
 miserable shed for the soldiers placed there on guard, and a tall 
 Turk, striding, at certain hours, from gun to gun, with a pipe in his 
 mouth, acts as sentinel. Skill in defence cannot well exist among a 
 people who believe that a castle, built in the shape of Mohamed's 
 name, £.x»3a_<>J must be impregnable. 
 
 The town itself is of no great extent; it contains only four 
 mosques, one of which belongs to the citadel : in almost every 
 house there is a loom, in which is manufactured a coarse cotton 
 cloth, used for the shirts and drawers of the poorer people. At the 
 time we passed through the town the fortress was repairing ; many 
 workmen were employed in hewing the stone brought from a neigh- 
 bouring quarry, and the road was covered with cars loaded with 
 materials : the cars seen on both sides of the Hellespont are in 
 shape exactly similar to those used by the Irish peasantry; the 
 wheels are made of solid wood, and when in motion produce a con- 
 stant creaking, grating in the highest degree the car unaccustomed 
 to such music : they are generally drawn by two buffaloes, and 
 carry a much greater weight than could be expected were one to 
 judge from their uncouth appearance. 
 
 Maida is a tolerably-sized town, inhabited by Greeks only ; it is 
 probably the same as the ancient Madytus : a dragoman is placed 
 
54 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 there for the assistance of the captains who are obliged to anchor in 
 its port. On a tongue of land jutting out into the sea are erected 
 several windmills, which supply the town with flour : I could not 
 help representing to myself this point as that on which Leander 
 was wont to land ; some rains near it seemed likewise to indicate 
 the site of an ancient city, and the mind willingly assented to the 
 idea of their being those of Sestos. The current in this part of the 
 channel is certainly not so strong as at the castles, (there, I have 
 been told, it equals in rapidity that under London bridge ;) I should 
 think it, however, too broad for any, except a most impatient lover, 
 to think of crossing otherwise than in a boat, but 
 
 Quid juvenis magnani cui versat in ossibus igncm 
 Durus amor? 
 
 I could not, with Herodotus in my hand, form any idea of the 
 possibility of erecting a bridge over the Hellespont in this part, 
 although few things are impossible to a general, who could ascertain 
 the extent of his army only by measurement. 
 
 On our return from Maida, descending towards the shore, we 
 met a party of about ten Turkish females, slowly ascending to a 
 country house erected on the brow of a hill : our sudden appear- 
 ance threw them in great consternation; they instantly retreated, 
 pronouncing the word giaour (infidel) : they, however, soon return- 
 ed, and as they passed us, several dropped their veils, and shewed 
 that beauty might lie concealed even under a Turkish hej'az. They 
 were accompanied by several female attendants, and were followed 
 by two eunuchs, who very politely returned our salute of kale 
 eme'ra. We afterwards learnt that it was the harem of the Pashà 
 of the castle : they were out upon a country excursion, and had 
 come from the town in a gaudy -coloured open carriage, draw» by 
 two horses ; their attendants had come to the foot of the hill in two 
 buffalo cars. 
 
 Light and favourable breezes induced our captain several times 
 to attempt passing the castles, but the stream was too rapid, and we 
 

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THE HELLESPONT.. 55 
 
 were as often driven back, so that at last it was determined w-e 
 should remain quietly where we were, until a good south wind 
 should offer us a probable chance of stemming the current. 
 
 The town of the Asiatic Dardanelles is a city much larger than 
 that opposite ; twelve minarets are seen rising above the roofs of its 
 houses, and the abundance of provisions of all sorts found in it 
 corresponds with its extent. Here are placed consuls of the different 
 nations, whose houses are indicated by their respective banners. It 
 is inhabited chiefly by Turks and Jews ; many of the latter serve as 
 guides to those who are travelling from Constantinople to Smyrna, 
 a journey which generally occupies seven days. The shops are all 
 open, the goods being exposed for sale under sheds, which defend 
 them from the sun and the rain. Large warehouses of pottery, to- 
 bacco, and other articles, are seen on all sides, ready to provision 
 the outward-bound ships, all of which are forced to touch at this 
 port. Near the fortress are seen many marble balls, of an astonish- 
 ing size and weight ; they are still used by the Turks. At the pas- 
 sage of Sir Sydney Smith, one of these balls struck the main-mast 
 of his ship and killed seven of his crew: it broke on the deck, and 
 its pieces were found to weigh seventeen arrobas of Malta, equiva- 
 lent to about four hundred and twenty-five pounds English. On 
 the southern side of the city flows a river, probably the Rhodius, on 
 the other side of which was placed the ancient but small city of 
 Dardanus : this river is crossed by a long bridge of wood ; it is in 
 summer generally fordable, and, like that of Koum Kale, the mo- 
 dern Simoeis, brings down a quantity of sand and mud, tinging, for 
 some distance, the dark blue waters of the Hellespont. 
 
 Some peasants were occupied, at the time we passed the bridge, 
 in shoeing a buffalo : the operation was performed in a much more 
 easy manner than I could have imagined, considering the great size 
 and surly temper of the animal. He was thrown on the ground, his 
 hind and fore feet being tied together by a strong cord ; a pole was 
 passed between the legs, and supported on the shoulders of two 
 brawny men, who, as soon as the animal became restive, raised the 
 feet, and rendered him incapable of exertion. A blacksmith, mean- 
 
56 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 while, with the proper tools, completed this operation, the sight of 
 which nearly cost us our passage to Constantinople ; for during our 
 stay the schooner hove anchor, and had already approached nearly 
 to the castles. We luckily found some Jew watermen, who put us 
 ori board for a few parats. 
 
 Passing by the fort we had a specimen of Turkish jealousy : 
 wishing to make a signal to the crew of the schooner, a fowling- 
 piece was discharged; instantly the walls were covered with men, 
 and it required all the eloquence of our boatmen to persuade them 
 that no insult was intended. 
 
 From the castles to the sea of Marmora (the Propontis) we had a 
 most delightful sail; hundreds of ships were making their way towards 
 Constantinople ; as they passed the castles their different banners 
 floated at the mast-head. The wind was fresh ; the prow cutting 
 rapidly the resisting waters, threw up the foam high on the fore- 
 castle, and we soon outstripped the rest of the fleet. 
 
 On the left we passed Gallipoli (Callipolis;) on the right Lamp- 
 sacus, (the city which supplied with wine the exiled Themistocles,) 
 now a pleasant village, intermingled with trees in a very picturesque 
 manner, above which rises one minaret. Gallipoli is the principal 
 town situate on the straits, and hence they are sometimes called by 
 the Levantine mariners " Braccio di Gallipoli:" from the deck of 
 the ship we perceived eight minarets in the town. 
 
 At sun -set we entered the Propontis, now called the sea of 
 Marmora, from the island which is seen in its centre ; hardly, 
 however, had we cleared the mouth of the Hellespont, when the 
 wind freshened ; for the first time we saw an eastern sky obscured 
 by clouds ; the ribands of lightning darting from east to west ; the 
 thunder rolling in the distance, all portended a tempestuous night. 
 Our schooner lay to during the storm ; but the crowd of ships which 
 accompanied us rendered our situation rather dangerous, for the 
 darkness of the night concealed them from our view ; and we re- 
 peatedly heard the cracking of rigging and the shouts of men on 
 board ships which passed us in the night ; the lanthorn usually hung 
 at the stern was broken by the force of the sea, and was replaced by 
 
THE HELLESPONT. 57 
 
 a large sheet of white paper, the reflection of which at sea is said 
 to answer the purpose of a light. Unwilling to remain in the cabin, 
 I stayed above, and, wrapped in a cappotto, passed the night tread- 
 ing the deck, and viewing the awful horror of nature. A light was 
 in the forecastle; I peeped down the hatchway, and saw two of our 
 sailors on their knees ; they were performing their devotions before 
 an image of the Virgin Mary : at this moment the fore-sail was 
 shivered by the wind, and all hands were ordered out ; they crossed 
 themselves and rushed on the deck — it is in such circumstances as 
 these, when abandoned by all other cheering hopes, that religion 
 offers us her comforts, and supports us through our difficul- 
 ties ; monstrous, indeed, then, must he be who would deprive man 
 of such a friend ; like Pandora, he scatters abroad the venom 
 of human misery, and would, if possible, shake from the box its 
 only antidote. 
 
 In the morning the storm ceased ; and the northern gale, which 
 had buffetted us about during the night, was succeeded by a light 
 southern wind, which wafted us across the Propontis. From most 
 parts of this sea, in clear weather, are distinguished the coasts of 
 Thrace and Phrygia, diverging from the Hellespont, and again ap- 
 proaching towards the Bosphorus. The temperature of the climate 
 invited men, in ancient times, to adorn the shore of Thrace with 
 numerous towns, now destroyed and entirely forgotten : of six cities 
 which once were found between Callipolis and Byzantium, hardly 
 are the names even now remembered. The lofty range of Rhodope 
 commands the coast, and is seen at a very great distance : most of 
 the ice used at Constantinople comes from these moun tains, for there 
 " Semper hyems semper spirantes frigora Cauri." We anchored off 
 St. Stephano, a village resorted to by the Turks during the sum- 
 mer, and containing a beautiful palace for the sultan. A powder 
 manufactory has lately been erected there, and much of that ar- 
 ticle is made yearly : the powder of Turkey, is, however, very far 
 from being good, all of it being of the nature of that used in the 
 English artillery. Fond as the Turks are of their arms, you may 
 
 I 
 
58 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 readily conceive that a little English baruk (gunpowder) is a most 
 acceptable present : they preserve it with infinite care for the prim- 
 ing of their pistols and muskets. From this place the minarets of 
 Constantinople are seen in the distance, appearing like the masts 
 of a fleet of ships. 
 
 From St. Stephano we continued our course under the walls of 
 Constantinople ; commencing at the well-known state prison of the 
 seven towers, and terminating at the front of the Bosphorus, on 
 which stands the palace or seraglio of the sultan. Not being able 
 to enter the harbour on account of the unfavourable wind, and the 
 strong current, we cast anchor under the walls of the seraglio, and 
 remained there a night. Seen from our place of anchorage, Con- 
 stantinople bore a most repelling and disgusting aspect : the only 
 agreeable object in sight was the Asiatic village of Scutari, the 
 ancient Chalcydon ; whichever way the eye turned, nothing was seen 
 but dirty mean houses, without windows; tall minarets, gaudily deco- 
 rated with gold ; and immense heaps of dung scattered at the foot of 
 the walls : day and night the ear was dinned with the yell of dogs, 
 and all prepossessed us with an idea that the capital of the Othman 
 empire could be nothing more than an accumulation of filth, and a 
 nest for the plague. The walls of the city were built with the ruins 
 of those of Byzantium ; among the stones which compose them are 
 every where seen antique arches, and rows of dilapidated columns : 
 in the castle of the seven towers, one of a polygonal shape, and built 
 of marble, has existed nearly entire since the days of Constantine. 
 
 Hardly had we anchored before our ship was surrounded with 
 Jews, here, as elsewhere, the same over-reaching race : they came 
 to inquire whether our men had any articles to sell on their own 
 account ; for the Italian and Greek sailors are always allowed a cer- 
 tain space in the ship, to stow the merchandize in which they may 
 have vested the savings from their pay ; a practice which, I am cer- 
 tain, must be attended with good moral effects, and might be adopted 
 in the English merchant service. 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN — CANNON — SERAGLIO DESCRIPTION OF THE PORT — INTE- 
 RIOR OF GALATA AND PERA — AMBASSADORS' HOUSES — ITALIAN INNS LANGUAGES 
 
 PLAGUE — ORIGIN OF THE NAME STIMBOLI — THE TOWN — MOSQUES — ST. SOPHIA — 
 
 CUPOLAS EZAN NUEZZIM NAMAZ OR PRAYER — PUBLIC SCHOOLS PRIVATE HOUSES 
 
 BAZARS FIRES IN CONSTANTINOPLE BATHS ANTIQUITIES OF CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 SERAGLIO — SOCIETY — SMOKING COFFEE-HOUSES FOOD TURKISH CHARACTER 
 
 ARMENIANS GREEKS — JEWS FRANKS. 
 
 ON turning the point of the seraglio we were presented with a 
 most delightful and unexpected view of the great city. On the 
 Asiatic side numerous country houses, surrounded with gardens 
 and trellises of vines, adorn the coast ; on the left an arm of the 
 sea, many miles long, stretches up into Europe, forming a vast basin, 
 covered with boats and ships ; in the middle of this basin stands a 
 rock, covered by a tower or guard- house, fancifully termed the 
 tower of Leander ; and from the shores rises Byzantium, in all her 
 beauty; an amphitheatre of reddish -coloured buildings, agreeably 
 intermingled with trees, and dark domes belonging to the mosques 
 and besesteins, above which are seen the bold and lofty minarets, 
 surmounted with a crescent, rising to a vast height. 
 
 On the left of the port or perarni is situated Stamboul, or Stim- 
 boli, the town proper, which is inhabited by none but Othman sub- 
 jects. At the extremity of this side, forming a triangle with the port 
 and the Propontis, stand the old and new serai of the sultan ; the 
 former is compassed with high white walls, which conceal from view 
 all but the roofs of the building, and the tops of the surround- 
 ing trees ; the latter, a monument of tyranny, was lately erected 
 by a rich Armenian, who, having amassed great wealth, found that 
 the only means of preserving his life was to spend the greater part 
 of his gains in erecting a palace for his sovereign. This new serai 
 
 12 
 
CO CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 is of wood, and faces the port ; gilding has not been spared on any 
 part of the building ; and the whole, by its novelty, has a pleasing 
 effect, although it can boast no architectural beauty.* The quays 
 near the seraglio are clean and good ; several pieces of cannon, 
 without carriages, said to have been taken from the Christians, are 
 seen near the walls of the old seraglio ; they are of very great bore ; 
 one of them, which I think would carry a ball of five feet in diame- 
 ter, was, it is pretended, used by Amurat, at the siege of Bagdad. 
 
 On the opposite side of the port are Toph-hana, Galata, and 
 Pera : in these quarters only are foreigners allowed to reside ; the 
 principal commerce of the town is, therefore, carried on in them. 
 Toph-hana and Galata are both built on the shore ; Pera stands on 
 the declivity above ; and, as it contains the houses of the foreign 
 ambassadors, and the dwellings of the rich merchants, is by far the 
 most respectable part of Constantinople. Our ship anchored near 
 Galata, in the midst of noise and confusion ; for the bustle in the 
 port is such as cannot well be described : every where barges and 
 gondolas, of different sizes, are seen darting with inconceivable ra- 
 pidity ; here a rich Turk is going towards the Bosphorus, in a barge 
 which he has hired to convey himself and family ; at the prow of 
 the boat are placed his slaves, and provisions for the excursion ; at 
 the stern are seated his four wives, muffled in their veils, while him- 
 self, the miniature representative of despotic power, sits coolly 
 smoking his pipe, unattracted by the scene of hurry which sur- 
 rounds him : there a lofty gilded prow, driven by ten couple of oars, 
 cuts the water, and conveys, through a long track of foam, one of 
 the court ministers, lounging at the stern, under a magnificent 
 canopy : yonder hundreds of boatmen are plying with their light 
 canoes, between the ships and the shore ; and on all sides are heard 
 the cries of caie, caie, and the shouts of men in all the languages of 
 Europe. 
 
 * By the name Eski-Sera'i, or Old Seraglio, the Turks likewise know a large building in the 
 centre of the town, in which the sultans generally incarcerate the concubines and children of their 
 predecessors. 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 61 
 
 The interior of the town by no means answers to the exterior 
 appearance. Galata contains hardly any thing but magazines, in 
 which all sorts of naval stores are offered for sale ; and public- 
 houses, in which constant bacchanals are carried on by the sailors 
 who touch at Constantinople : a more nauseous scene of vice can- 
 not be imagined than that which presents itself in this dirty suburb; 
 narrow lanes blockaded by heaps of filth, on which swarms of ra- 
 venous mastiffs seek a scanty food ; drunken sailors rolling in all 
 directions ; boys and women of the most disgusting class parading 
 the alleys ; Jews offering, in broken Spanish, their wares to the un- 
 wary mariners ; tabagies, whence proceeds a venomous steam qf 
 brandy, wine, and dirt, mingled with the shouts of drunkards and 
 the noise of gamblers ; these are the objects which present them- 
 selves as you land at the scala or port. I ceased to wonder that the 
 plague should make such ravages in Constantinople, and, tucking 
 up the skirts of my coat, to avoid contact with the filthy beings 
 which surrounded me, I hastened up to Pera. 
 
 Here the eye is somewhat relieved by the sight of cleaner 
 houses, and small open shops, in which different trades are car- 
 ried on with industry. A Turkish burial-ground is situated on the 
 left of the principal street, and wares of different kinds, such as 
 cloths, muslins, knives, &c. are spread on the ground for sale : com- 
 panies of janissaries, armed with whips and staves, walk up and 
 down the town, preserving quiet and peace among the motley crowd 
 which the houses of the ambassadors, consuls, dragomans, and 
 merchants of different nations attract to this place. The palaces of 
 the European ambassadors are very respectable buildings, particu- 
 larly those of Sir Robert Liston, and Monsieur de la Rivière. 
 
 The influence of the ambassadors is very great in Pera, as the 
 subjects of the different European powers are under their jurisdiction 
 only, and cannot, without their permission, be punished according to 
 Turkish law : the extending of this privilege to the natives of the 
 Ionian islands has been attended with no small trouble to the English 
 ambassador ; for, on the one hand, the Turk can with difficulty be 
 
62 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 persuaded to regard a Greek in the same light as a British subject ; 
 the islander, on the other hand, knowing the vigour of the arm 
 which protects his nation, is too often inclined to insult the Moslem. 
 While we were in the port, a boat, belonging to an Ionian brig, had 
 fallen foul of a Turkish wherry; the waterman, indignant at the 
 supposed insult, raised himself on his feet, and with his oar bela- 
 boured the Greek party ; these, crying for mercy, and invoking the 
 panagia, fled to the British palace ; a complaint was instantly made 
 against the waterman, who, a few minutes afterwards, was called on 
 shore, and received, on the naked soles of his feet, summary punish- 
 ment for his offence. 
 
 There are two or three Italian inns which have lately been esta- 
 blished in Pera : they are excessively dirty ; and, were it not for the 
 civility of the ministers and consuls, who generally offer a home in 
 their own houses to their countrymen, the traveller would have but 
 little to say of the comforts of Constantinople. I dined once or 
 twice at one of these hotels ; they are frequented chiefly by sea 
 captains ; the dishes are served without any napkins or cloth, ob- 
 jects of that nature being regarded as conductors of the plague. 
 
 The great and constant influx of strangers into Galata and Pera 
 renders the acquirement of the practical part of languages very easy 
 to the inhabitants, of whom there are few who do not speak, with 
 tolerable accuracy, three or four of the European languages, besides 
 the different dialects used in the Othman dominions. — Those two 
 dreadful calamities incident to society, the plague and conflagration, 
 habit has rendered so familiar, that they are neither feared nor 
 thought of, even by the Franks, unless they extend their ravages 
 to their families or their houses. When the plague rages in its 
 greatest violence, a bar, placed across the door of the principal 
 shops, hinders the buyers from communicating directly with the 
 sellers ; for it is worthy of observation, that in Constantinople all 
 the Christians believe implicitly that this dreadful disorder is com- 
 municated by the touch alone : the merchants and dragomans read 
 no papers until they have been fumigated : if they enter a càie to 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 03 
 
 cross the port, they remove, with care, the rug placed at the 
 stem, and all contact with the Turks is, as much as possible, 
 avoided. Under the reign of Achmet I. the dogs, which rove in 
 innumerable herds through the streets, were accused of communi- 
 cating the disorder; the Moslems were of the same opinion as 
 the Christians ; and there is no doubt that the canine race would 
 have been exterminated in Constantinople, had it not been for the 
 intreaties of the Mufty, who took the animals under his protection, 
 and transported them to a desert island of the Propontis. 
 
 Constantinople is called, generally, by the Turks, Islamboul^ 
 although upon the coins, and in the mandates of the government, it 
 still bears the name of Costantiniah. The Turkish name of the 
 town [^^l] is a corruption of the Arabic word [^Jlkwl] which 
 latter is formed from the Greek words ek vw, or r»v ^okm. I find, 
 in the third volume of the learned Baron de Sacy's Chresto- 
 mathie Arabe, a curious extract from a work of Masudi, who 
 flourished in the fourth century of the hegira : it proves that the 
 Turkish name and the Greek Stimboli, are of a much earlier origin 
 than the Othman invasion. I copy a translation of the passage 
 alluded to : — 
 
 " In the third year of his reign, he (Constantine) began build- 
 ing the city Costantiniah, upon the canal which proceeds from the 
 Euxine sea (now-a-days known by the name of Sea of Chozar, 
 jjcl) to the sea of Roum, Syria, and Egypt. And this he did 
 in the place called Taila, a part of the territory of Byzantium. He 
 fortified the city, built it very strong, and chose it for the capital 
 of his empire ; and he also made it the royal residence. It was 
 called after his name. The emperors of Roum after him, even 
 unto this day, have all dwelt there. However, up to the present 
 time the Greeks call it w 'a<v [^3^] and when they wish to ex- 
 press that it is the capital on account of its size, they say Stanpolin, 
 [tjyi bj**"] ^ ie y never call it Costantiniah : the Arabs, on the con- 
 trary, give it that name." 
 
 The town is said to contain fourteen imperial mosques, two hun- 
 
64 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 dred common mosques, and about three hundred messjids or 
 chapels, thirty besesteins or markets, more than five hundred foun- 
 tains, and about one hundred thousand houses. 
 
 The plunder of ancient Greece has served to adorn the principal 
 mosques. They are built in imitation of St. Sophia; for of all nations, 
 ancient or modern, the Osmanlis seem the least capable of inven- 
 tion, either in science or in art. St. Sophia, however, covered with 
 cupolas, imposes by its mass ; but is far from producing those sub- 
 lime feelings experienced in contemplating the monuments of Rome 
 and Athens ; nor can it boast the awful majesty which characterizes 
 the bold structures of the Gothic age. It was in this temple, built 
 during the reign of Justinian, that the cupola was first used, for the 
 term can hardly apply to the hemispherical roof of the Pantheon : 
 this architectural ornament, if it can so be called, was introduced in 
 the ninth century into Italy by the Venetians, who used it with pro- 
 fusion in the church of St. Mark. Now every church of Italy has 
 its dome, in some immoderately large, seeming by its weight to 
 crush the building which it covers ; in others diminutively small, 
 appearing as a tumor on the roof. 
 
 The small mosques and the messjids are distinguished from 
 private houses by their contiguity to a minaret, from the top of which 
 the Nuezzins invite the Moslems to prayer. This invitation is called 
 the ezan, and answers the purpose of bells in Christian countries. 
 Tradition says that it had its origin in the following circumstance : 
 the disciples of Mohammed assembled one day to deliberate on the 
 manner in which the hours of prayer should be announced to the 
 people. Flags, trumpets, bells, fires, were successively proposed as 
 signals ; but these were all rejected, for the Moslems wished not to 
 imitate the Christians, the Jews, or the Hindoos, and they separated 
 without having come to a decision. During the night one of them, 
 Abd'allah, had a vision. An angel stood before him, clothed in 
 green, and said to him : "I will shew thee how thou shalt for the 
 future perform this important duty of thy worship." He then 
 mounted on the roof of the house, and with a loud voice pronounced 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 65 
 
 the ezan, in the same words as ever since the Nuezzims have used. 
 The following is the form of the ezan : — 
 
 Almighty God! I attest that there is no God hut God, and that 
 Mohammed is his prophet. Come, ye faithful, to prayer, come to 
 the temple of salvation. There is no God hut God. Prayer is 
 preferable to sleep. 
 
 The Nuezzim repeats each of these sentences several times from 
 the galleries of the minarets. He is standing with his eyes shut, his 
 hands opened and raised, his thumbs in his ears, and his face turned 
 towards Mecca. The voice of the Nuezzims is generally very musical, 
 their language is sonorous and manly ; I still recollect with emo- 
 tion those moments of innocent delight, when, watching the approach 
 of day, I heard the silence of nature gently broken by voices, as it 
 were proceeding from heaven, and repeating the words — Come to 
 prayer, come to the temple of salvation : prayer is to he preferred 
 before sleep. The ezan is pronounced five times every twenty-four 
 hours — at the break of day ; at noon ; at the moment the index of 
 the dial gives a shade double its own length ; at sun -set ; and again 
 as soon as the last twinkling of light has ceased to shine in the 
 horizon. It puts in motion all those who profess Islaroism. As 
 soon as the harmonious voice of the Nuezzim is heard, every Moslem 
 abandons all for prayer, and prostrates himself before his God, 
 having previously performed the prescribed ablutions. 
 
 It is generally in the mosque or messjid that the Moslem 
 acquits himself of the namaz, or prayer ; it consists principally 
 of different prostrations, calculated to impress the heart with hu- 
 mility, and performed simultaneously with a silence and attention 
 which give to the Mohammedan worship an appearance of awful 
 sublimity. The interior of the mosques is of the greatest sim- 
 plicity; the only ornaments are some tablets hung on the walls, 
 exhibiting in large letters the name of God, of Mohammed, and his 
 principal followers; a few lamps and ostrich eggs are suspended 
 from the roof, and the pavement is covered with matting or carpets, 
 
 K 
 
66 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 on which the assistants sit, while the service is chanted in a low 
 tone by the Imam, and answered in an amyn pronounced aloud by 
 the congregation. 
 
 The mosques owe their foundation to the piety of individuals, or 
 to the munificence of princes ; to each of those buildings is attached 
 a college or school, destined for students who are preparing to pro- 
 fess law or religion. The inmates of these medresses or schools learn 
 the Arabic, Turkish, and Persian languages ; they are divided into 
 ten classes; 1st. Grammar; 2d. Syntax; 3d. Logic; 4th. Morality; 
 5th. Rhetoric ; 6th. Theology ; 7th. Philosophy ; 8th. Jurisprudence ; 
 9th. The Koran; 10th. The Oral Laws of the Prophet. It is in vain 
 that Mahomet II. Selim I. and Solyman I. have endeavoured to in- 
 troduce in the medresses the study of geography, of history, of 
 mathematics, and of medicine. The effeminate successors of those 
 great princes, warped by the prejudices of priests, have neglected to 
 execute the noble designs of their ancestors ; law and theology are 
 now the only studies of the literary Turks ; there is, however, still a 
 school for medicine attached to the Solymaneh, or mosque founded 
 by Solyman. 
 
 Besides the medresses there are likewise attached to the great 
 mosques hospitals for the sick, Avhere every assistance is offered to 
 the patient, excepting that which medicine alone can bestow ; public 
 libraries for the students of the colleges and others ; imareths, where 
 food is daily distributed to the poor ; mektebes, or public schools, 
 where children of indigent parents are taught the principles of 
 Islamism and the elements of their own language. 
 
 The besesteins or bazars are extensive buildings of marble, 
 covered with leaden vaults ; they recalled to my memory the pas* 
 sages of Paris, but the bazars are longer and more lofty ; on both 
 sides are shops, in which jewels, stuffs, pipes, and other articles are 
 exposed for sale by men of all colours and nations. These edifices, 
 being by their construction safe against the ravages of fire, are used 
 also as a sort of bank wherein merchants deposit the most precious 
 of their effects, and the magistrates the fortunes of the minors con- 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 67 
 
 fided to their care. Each bazar has a governor, who is responsible 
 for all disorders, robberies, and so forth ; for this reason he causes 
 the bazar to be shut at an early hour in the evening. 
 
 The private houses of the Turks consist of a slight wooden frame, 
 the interstices of which are filled with bricks, mud, and plaister : as 
 in the dwellings of the ancient Greeks, the apartments of the men 
 and women are separated by a passage ; the latter is expressively 
 termed the harem, or forbidden part : — woe to the unfortunate raya 
 or infidel whom error or curiosity leads to this sanctum sanctorum ; 
 no excuses, no entreaties can preserve his shoulders from the batoon 
 ©f the enraged master : the apartment of the men is the only part 
 of the house to which strangers are admitted ; and hence it derives 
 its name, salamlik, health to you, the ordinary form of oriental 
 salutation. This apartment (the only one which I ever had an 
 opportunity of seeing) is generally furnished in a simple manner, 
 corresponding to the national affection for ease and luxury ; a 
 Persian carpet covers the floor, and silken cushions are spread along 
 the walls ; the visitors throw off their outer slippers at the door, and 
 enter in their light leathern buskins ; they recline on the cushions, 
 smoke two or three pipes, eat a few sweetmeats, and drink a cup of 
 coffee without sugar or milk. I cannot help observing that I was 
 much struck with the decorum of oriental society ; manly politeness, 
 unbounded hospitality, and strict decency, are the principal features 
 in the social manners of the Turks : the remark Xenophon made 
 concerning the ancient Persians would apply with literal propriety 
 to the present Osmanlis.* 
 
 The houses of Constantinople form a labyrinth of narrow lanes, 
 in which the stranger, unaccompanied by a guide, may easily lose 
 his way : among dwellings of such slight and combustible materials 
 one easily conceives that fire must often make great ravages. Four 
 companies of firemen (toulumbagis) were established by Selim II. 
 in imitation of the pompiers of Paris ; but did they even possess 
 
 * Aia%pbv plv yàp trt nal vvv l^l TltpaaiQ Kaì tò a-rroTTTVuv Kaì tò àTroniiTTtffSat, Kaì tò ipvatjg /tf^-ttc ^al- 
 vio9ar alexpvv li (ti Kaì tò lóvra ire Quvepòv ytvicrSai rj rà èprjirai tviKa r) xaì òXXs tivòc towts, — Ctjroptcd'uu 
 
 K2 
 
68 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 skill in the management of the engines, that skill could not be 
 evinced in the confined lanes of the Turkish towns. 
 
 As soon as the alarm of fire is given from the top of the towers 
 erected for that purpose, and the hollow voice of the night patrole 
 has repeated the cry through the different quarters of Constantinople, 
 the sultan and his ministers hasten to the scene of conflagration, by 
 their presence to animate the firemen and to deter the wicked 
 from adding theft and assassination to the dreadful calamity. This 
 custom, which takes its origin from the praiseworthy activity of 
 the first Turkish emperors, serves, however, not unfrequently to 
 cause the very evil which it was intended to counteract : for when 
 the restless janissaries wish to express to the sovereign their discon- 
 tent, they fire one of the quarters of the town, and thus oblige him 
 to come in person to hear their seditious threats and their motives 
 to revolt. 
 
 The very frequent recurrence of ablutions, enjoined by the 
 wisdom of Mohammed, to preserve his followers from the disorders 
 produced in a warm climate by an accumulation of dirt on the skin, 
 has caused pious individuals to erect fountains in almost every street 
 of the Turkish cities, and even on the border of the roads, far dis- 
 tant from any town : the tomb of the founder is generally placed in 
 the neighbourhood, and is surrounded with trees, which offer a 
 delightful shade to the wearied traveller. These fountains are gene- 
 rally built in the Moorish style, and adorned with Arabic inscrip- 
 tions. 
 
 To the same precept of cleanliness we may attribute the 
 number of warm baths seen in Turkey ; every village has its ham- 
 mam or public bath, and every large house is provided with the 
 same convenience. These thermae are healed by a subterraneous 
 vault, which serves as a furnace, and is filled with logs of wood, 
 above which, and immediately below the marble pavement of the 
 building, is a large cauldron of water, which is kept in a constant 
 state of ebullition : tubes placed in the interior of the walls carry off 
 the steam, while others furnish the interior with hot water from 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 69 
 
 the cauldron, and with cold water from a contiguous cistern. The 
 bather, having paid to the keeper of the bath the price of entrance, 
 is shewn into a square room, along the walls of which runs a wide 
 seat covered with cushions : he here leaves his clothes, and girding 
 round his body a wide piece of cotton, which hangs from his waist 
 to his ancles, and placing his feet in a pair of wooden clogs, to pre- 
 serve them from the burning heat of the floor, he proceeds through 
 several rooms, successively increasing in warmth, to the interior 
 chamber. This chamber is built in a circular shape and covered by 
 a cupola, in which there are many openings covered with very thick 
 glass, which gives a free passage to the light, but not to the visual 
 rays of the curious ; a circular dais on the pavement indicates the po- 
 sition of the cauldron which is immediately underneath ; small foun- 
 tains and marble basins are seen at equal distances round the wall. 
 
 After staying a few moments in this inner chamber a copious 
 transpiration flows from every part of the body ; an attendant, whose 
 only article of dress is a cotton zone, and whose meagre and bony 
 frame proves the debilitating effects of his trade, makes his appear- 
 ance : the bather is now extended near one of the small fountains 
 on a broad plank ; he is scrubbed from head to foot with a piece of 
 felt, (the strigilis of the ancients,) and then is scoured with the 
 fibres of the date tree, imbibed in a lather of soap ; this lather is 
 washed off by pouring numerous bowls of water over the body, and 
 the servant proceeds to crack each of the joints of the bather : the 
 Moslem and the Greek then perform the epilation which is univer- 
 sally practised throughout the east; this is done by means of a 
 caustic earth called oth. 
 
 When all these operations are completed, another shawl is 
 bound round the body of the bather, his head is swathed in a tur- 
 ban, and he is re -conducted to the first room, which answers to the 
 tepidarium of the ancients ; he there smokes a pipe, drinks a cup of 
 coffee, and dresses himself in clean linen. 
 
 Many travellers speak in high terms of the good effects produced 
 by this mode of bathing : good effects I certainly never experienced 
 
70 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 from perspiring so profusely; on the contrary, after entering a 
 Turkish hammam an indolent languor pervaded my frame for many 
 days, and rendered me incapable of supporting the fatigues of 
 travel : I therefore preferred, when possible, to bathe in the sea, a 
 practice which I have ever found beneficial in every season and in 
 every climate. 
 
 Of the antiquities of Constantinople, of the At Meidan, or Hip- 
 podrome, of the seven towers, of the seraglio, I shall say nothing : 
 they have so often been spoken of both by those who have seen 
 them, and by those who have not, that were I to add to the long 
 list of descriptions of those objects, I fear the Minoses and Rhada- 
 manthuses of literature would convict me of the unpardonable crime 
 of book-making, and rank me among those shades, which, suspenses 
 ad ventos, serve as an example to scribbling travellers. Moreover, 
 not being very anxious to expose my neck to the crooked sabre of 
 a eunuch, I saw no more of the seraglio than the first court, which 
 every person is allowed to enter : -it is shaded with planes, and was 
 crowded with people, among whom the staves of the guards pre- 
 served the deepest silence. The entrance to this yard or court is by 
 an old stone archway, much resembling a fortress ; to this gate the 
 Turks give many pompous appellations, such as the Only Gate, the 
 Nest of Happiness, the Foundation of Power and Strength, the 
 Sublime Gate ; from this latter epithet the Othman government de- 
 rives its general appellation of the Sublime Porte. This name, 
 given to the Turkish court, recals to our memory the vagrant origin 
 of the people and their sovereign. Accustomed to dwell in tents, 
 the subjects could not be admitted into that of the prince. They 
 assembled, therefore, around his tent, and received his orders and 
 decrees standing at the door ; hence the term Bab Huma'ioun, or 
 August Door, became synonimous with the king's palace : as the 
 sovereign mounted his charger, a convenient opportunity was offered 
 to address a petition, and even to this day many requests are di- 
 rected to the rekab, or stirrup. 
 
 At this first entrance the heads of those whom the sultan's 
 
INF7 OFFICER OF JANISSARIES. 
 
 GREEK SAILOR. 
 
 - i iTSWhazalw Zendttn 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 71 
 
 cruelty or justice condemns to death are exposed on large platters 
 of wood to the eyes of the populace. The heads of the great are, it 
 is said, honoured with a silver or golden plate. 
 
 It certainly cannot be denied that the first view of Constantinople 
 must astonish every traveller; the swarms of people of different 
 nations hurrying through the unpaved lanes, the absence of wheeled 
 carriages and horses, and the melancholy yet active quietness of the 
 city, interrupted only by the noise of hammers, saws, and files, dis- 
 tinguish the capital of the Othman territory from those of more 
 northern countries : but as soon as the novelty of the scene has 
 ceased to attract attention, its monotony fails not to disgust the 
 active mind. Social intercourse seems nearly unknown among the 
 Turks, and that pleasing Goddess, Fashion, extends not her power 
 to the shores of the Bosphorus : variety of dress, manners, and 
 action, is sought, therefore, in vain among the Osmanlis — the son 
 follows the steps of his father, and the occurrences of to-morrow 
 will be nearly the same as those of to-day ; so that he who should 
 wish to study the character of the inhabitants of Constantinople, 
 would not, unless after sojourning many years within its walls, be 
 able to deduce any proper conclusion. You will not, therefore, 
 expect me, a mere butterfly among travellers, to draw up any long 
 account of the state of society in Turkey ; able hands have written 
 volumes upon the Turks ; but the contradictions they contain prove 
 the difficulty of obtaining any correct idea of their manners and 
 customs ; nor am I surprised at the difficulty, when I consider how 
 many absurdities have been published by English travellers con- 
 cerning French society, although one would be tempted to think 
 that familiarity with the language, and the vicinity of the country, 
 would enable them to judge more accurately. 
 
 The great source of enjoyment among the Turks is the pipe; 
 never is the Turk seen unaccompanied with this necessary appen- 
 dage ; whether he receives the visit of a stranger, lounges in a coffee- 
 house, or overlooks his workmen, the pipe is ever in his mouth ; and 
 almost all mechanics, while working at their trades, take at the 
 
7- CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 same time the pleasure of smoking. The fumes are sometimes driven 
 through water, and inhaled from a flexible tube, but the more usual 
 pipe consists of a long tube of cork wood, or jasmin, at one end of 
 which is fixed a red glazed earthen bowl, to contain the tobacco, 
 and at the other an amber top, to place between the lips. With 
 one of these pipes, a small bag of Syrian tobacco, and a little touch- 
 wood, the Turk is ever prepared to resist the attacks of that insi- 
 dious malady, ennui. The habit soon communicates itself to the 
 stranger, and few quit Constantinople without having provided 
 themselves with a pipe. 
 
 The coffee-house is the place of resort : these buildings are in 
 no manner similar to those of other countries ; they are generally 
 built in a circular shape, having at their entrance a shed : elevated 
 tables, covered with mats, are placed along the walls ; upon these 
 the Turks sit cross-legged, and are served with a cup of coffee by 
 the waiter, or cofegi. I need not observe, that there are no news- 
 papers or journals in these coffee-houses ; a sort of public cryer 
 proclaims the news which the government chooses to make known 
 to the people, who sometimes scruple not to evince their political 
 feelings by cudgelling the cryer. The coffee of the Turks is drunk 
 without sugar or milk, and the cup in which it is given is not larger 
 than a common egg cup ; it is placed in a case of silver, elegantly 
 worked, and sometimes embossed with jewels ; the use of this case is 
 to preserve, the fingers from the heat : to prepare it properly the coffee 
 is first pounded in a mortar, and driven through a fine sieve ; it is 
 then put into the boiler and made to simmer slowly for a quarter of an 
 hour, being constantly stirred : it is afterwards suffered to rest, but 
 is not drunk clear, as in France and Italy : C'è da mangiare e anche 
 da bere in mia tazza di caffè Turco, say the Italians. The first 
 coffee-house was established at Constantinople by an inhabitant of 
 Damascus, in the year of the hegira 962 ; it was frequented by most 
 of the learned, and was therefore called the School of the Learned. 
 
 Animal food is but little eaten by the Turks, nor do they seem 
 particularly fond of fish, although few seas can boast of producing 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 73 
 
 so much excellent fish as the Propontis : the principal article of 
 support seems to be, in summer, fruit; in winter, bread, cheese, 
 olives, &c. ; at the market of Toph-hana melons are seen exposed 
 for sale in heaps of many thousands. Mutton is generally preferred 
 to other meats ; it is either stewed with rice or cut into small pieces, 
 spitted upon a wooden skewer with bay leaves, and baked or roasted 
 on the embers. A round copper or silver tray is placed upon a 
 wooden tripod, about three inches high ; on this the dishes are set, 
 and the guests serve themselves without ceremony, the fingers 
 answering all the purposes of knives, forks, and spoons. 
 
 Unless perfectly acquainted with the language of the country he 
 visits, it is impossible for any traveller to measure the general intel- 
 lectual powers of the inhabitants. The sedate behaviour and the 
 patriarchal appearance of the Turks would induce one to believe 
 that they are a nation of philosophers ; and I have heard that they ge- 
 nerally shew much industry and penetration in the study of the mathe- 
 matical sciences ; but the power which superstition has given to the 
 oulema, or law and religious class, over the people, has hitherto 
 hindered the introduction of typography and the study of the 
 sciences ; the ministers of Islamism know that the adoption of the 
 European improvements would diminish the veneration for the Ko- 
 ran, and cause the people to contemn the heap of obscure commen- 
 taries on which thcv found their theological erudition. The Turks 
 have but the appearance of intellectual superiority; and, notwith- 
 standing their majestic demeanour and haughty conduct, seem in 
 their actions little more than overgrown children. 
 
 Of patriotism the Turk has little or none; attachment to his 
 religion holds the place of love of his country. He is eager to ob- 
 tain articles of foreign manufacture ; and every where an object 
 bearing the name of London is prized beyond measure. 
 
 The population of European Turkey consists of Turks, Ar- 
 menians, Greeks, Jews, and Franks, (or, as they are called in 
 Turkish Osmanli, Ermeni, Ouroum, Iahoud, Franche.) Each of 
 
 L 
 
74 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 these classes has manners and a dress peculiar to itself. They are 
 easily distinguished by the colour of their buskins and slippers : the 
 Moslem alone has the right of wearing yellow shoes ; the Armenians 
 wear red, the Greeks black, and the Jews blue. 
 
 Both of Asiatic origin, the Osmanlis and the Armenians have 
 nearly similar manners and customs ; the Armenian seems precisely 
 what the Turk would be, were he a Christian : the same reserved- 
 ness in speech and uprightness in dealing are observed in both these 
 classes : neither the Turks nor the Armenians allow their wives to 
 appear unveiled in the streets ; whenever necessity obliges the fe- 
 males of these nations to go abroad, their head and shoulders are 
 wrapped in snow-white muslin, and their face is concealed by a veil 
 of horse-hair. The Moslems and Armenians are excellent hus- 
 bands; they love tenderly their wives and their offspring, and the 
 man who would strike his wife would be regarded as the most cow- 
 ardly and despicable of the human race : on the other hand, the 
 women know no desire but that of pleasing their husbands, no occu- 
 pation but that of educating their children ; few of them would ex- 
 change their conjugal love and the jealous harem for the unbounded 
 liberty and useless toilette of a northern beauty. 
 
 The Armenians are generally wealthy, and much attached to 
 their nation : few of them have much taste for literature ; a noble 
 convent and academy of Armenians is, however, established at 
 Venice, and the sons of the richer individuals are there educated : 
 a press is established in that convent, and many Armenian, Greek, 
 and Turkish books are yearly printed in it. While at Venice we 
 often visited this asylum for religion and learning : we were always 
 treated with the greatest civility by the venerable fathers of the com- 
 munity ; and it is with no small satisfaction that, as far as so ephe- 
 meral a production as these recollections can record, I record the 
 hospitality of Father Aucher. This gentleman, a native of Constan- 
 tinople, and a doctor of theology, has seen many parts of England, 
 and never is wanting in attention to travellers coming from that 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 75 
 
 country : he described.to us his birth-place with tears in his eyes. 
 I afterwards found that he exaggerated its beauties ; but who has a 
 heart so cold as not to exaggerate when speaking of his native land ? 
 
 The only occupation of the Armenians is commerce, and that 
 profession they pursue with indefatigable industry : they are properly 
 compared by the Turks to the camel, one of the most gentle, 
 patient, and useful animals of the creation. It is to the Armenians 
 that the Turks owe most of their manufactures ; and it is to them 
 that they confide the mint, the powder mills, and the treasuries of 
 the ministers. 
 
 The manufactures are not numerous ; for, as I have before ob- 
 served, the influence of the oulemas, or expounders of the Koran, is 
 so great over the mind of the people, that all attempts to introduce 
 the study of sciences or the exercise of arts (those two great foes to 
 superstition) have been unsuccessful — even when sanctioned by the 
 approbation of the monarch. The building of ships, the founding of 
 cannon, and the manufacturing of paper and powder, are performed, 
 mostly, by renegadoes, who, when age has rendered them incapable 
 of continuing their exertions, are generally suffered to die in misery 
 — an example to those who may wish to abjure the religion of their 
 fathers. The powder of the Turks is badly granulated and extremely 
 dirty ; their paper is thick and glazed with soap, in order that the 
 writer's calam or reed may slip more easily on its surface, while, 
 seated on the floor, he traces in his hand the flowing character 
 of the Arabians. 
 
 From a nation which never has enjoyed the advantages of an 
 enlightened religion ; which for many centuries has groaned under 
 the sceptre of a vagrant people, different from itself in manners and 
 in faith ; whose advances in civilization have been chilled by the 
 cold hand of despotism ; — from such a nation we can expect little 
 more than weakness, ignorance, and deception, similar to what is 
 remarked in the unfortunate race with which the professors of huma- 
 nity have peopled the Antilles. Such a nation are the Greeks, super- 
 ficial in their acquirements, over-reaching in their dealings, and 
 
 L2 
 
76 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 superstitious in their devotion ; yet we see with pleasure that, not- 
 withstanding the tyranny of the Turks, and the indifference evinced 
 by the Christians of the west towards the Christians of the east, there 
 yet lurk in the bosom of the descendants of Leonidas sparks of 
 patriotism, which, ere long, may burst forth into an inextinguishable 
 flame : — but of the ill-fated Greek more hereafter. 
 
 The Jew, content with the indifference he experiences from all 
 parties in Constantinople — an indifference far preferable to the at- 
 tention of the Madrid inquisitors — satisfies, in some measure, that 
 itch for gain, which, from time immemorial, has tormented the sons 
 of Israel. Unattached to Christian or to Moslem, the Jew of Con- 
 stantinople pursues steadily and industriously his only aim, lucre ; 
 were the Greeks ever to reclaim their rights from the Osmanlis, 
 he would wander over the field, strip the slain, and offer his booty 
 to each party. Most of those who compose this class are descend- 
 ants of the Spanish Jews, whom the narrow and priest-bound policy 
 of Ferdinand drove to this country. They have preserved the lan- 
 guage of their ancestors, and the officer of justice, whom they elect 
 among themselves to avoid referring their private sufferances to a 
 Turkish Cadi, is still called Regidor. * 
 
 The Franks, or Ifrengies (a distinctive term applied to the 
 natives of western countries) live under the protection of their am- 
 bassadors : proud of their superiority over the Osmanlis, they pre- 
 serve with care the costume and manners of their respective nations ; 
 and one may be introduced at Pera into English and French 
 families, whose society causes one to forget the distance which sepa- 
 rates London and Paris from Constantinople. The traveller will, 
 therefore, find no necessity to change his dress while in the Levant. ; 
 he should, however, bear in mind the proverb often repeated by the 
 Turks and Persians : The reception of a stranger must be determined 
 according to his dress : [^LJUL i^s]. It may serve as a lesson to him 
 who visits eastern countries. 
 
 During our stay at Constantinople we made many excursions in 
 the vicinity of the town, and up the Bosphorus to the Euxine sea :— 
 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 77 
 
 but all those beautiful spots have been described so often and so 
 faithfully, that I can do no more than refer you to the works of the 
 Grecian travellers, from Gellius to Hobhouse, particularly as I can- 
 not help thinking that, for the last hour, you have been shrugging 
 your shoulders at the staleness of many of my remarks. 
 
DEPARTURE 
 
 FROM 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 EMBARKATION DARDANELLES — ENGLISH MERCHANT SHIPS — ENGLISH SAILORS — POL- 
 
 LACO ZEA — ROBBERY — BEHAVIOUR OF THE CONSUL — INHABITANTS OF ZEA. 
 
 TELE sight of Byzantium produces none of those recollections of 
 virtue, courage, and magnanimity which rush before the mind at the 
 sound of the names of Rome, Athens, Sparta : the soul of the free- 
 born man starts at the idea of being so near the seat of tyranny, and 
 we quit without regret the territory of despotism, superstition, and 
 barbarism. To the classical traveller the city of the Constantines is 
 an object of interest comparatively small ; to the Christian philan- 
 thropist, Stimboli is an object of pity, over which he weeps the fall 
 of religion and the destruction of freedom. 
 
 We embarked on board an English merchant brig, the Gertrude, 
 employed to import corn to Malta from the shores of the Euxine 
 sea : she stopped at Constantinople to take in water and to obtain a 
 firman or permission to pass the Dardanelles : the captain agreed to 
 land us upon the island of Zea, opposite the Saronic gulph ; Athens 
 being too much out of his course. The north wind which had so 
 retarded our progress in the last voyage continued blowing with 
 constant and unabated vigour : the sails were unfurled to the gale, 
 and our ship darted with inconceivable rapidity over the waves of 
 the Propontis. A voyage of twelve hours brought us to the Hel- 
 lespont, where we cast anchor, the captain having to shew his firman 
 before he passed the Castles. 
 
 We purchased a couple of kids, from one of which the cook 
 furnished us with several good meals during the voyage. I was not 
 a little surprised to find that the sailors would not touch this sort of 
 
DEPARTURE FROM CONSTANTINOPLE. 79 
 
 meat, and that even the hardships of a sea-faring life had not been 
 able to destroy the prejudice against goats' flesh which prevails in 
 the southern parts of England. We found the cabin much more 
 comfortable than that of the ship in which we had performed the 
 voyage up the Archipelago ; cleanliness and solidity distinguish the 
 British merchant ship on the Mediterranean ; but the English ma- 
 riner is evidently calculated to resist the billows of the Atlantic rather 
 than to navigate the iEgean sea : in this latter the greatest danger 
 is from the sudden squalls produced by the wind's blowing down the 
 numerous straits which separate the islands : the pollaco rigged 
 ship is better adapted to resist such sudden gusts ; its masts are all of 
 one piece, without any tops, and, if properly managed, the sails 
 may be struck ere the eye has glanced from the stern to the prow. 
 
 When the captain's firman had been examined we again hove 
 anchor ; wind and current favouring us, we advanced with rapidity 
 down the Hellespont and the iEgean sea : in twenty- four hours we 
 were close to the northern shore of Zea ; our ship lay-to, her boat 
 was hoisted out, and we landed with some difficulty in a small creek 
 on this part of the island ; the surf was high, dashing with fury 
 among the rocks, and covering the shore with foam. As soon as 
 the boat returned, the Gertrude again set sail, and soon was no 
 longer visible from the heights; the English jack floated at the 
 peak ; it was a signal to convey to us the wishes of the crew for our 
 success in the remaining part of our journey ; we answered the 
 honest effusion of their hearts by waving our handkerchiefs as long 
 as they remained in sight. 
 
 As the part of the island wherein we landed was uninhabited, we 
 were obliged to proceed immediately to the town, which was about 
 six miles distant ; no inquiries were made as to whence we came, 
 and consequently we were not subjected to the irksome laws of 
 quarantine : some mules were immediately procured, and they 
 brought our luggage to the town, where we remained that night. 
 The British vice-consul offered us the use of his boat to cross the 
 gulf to Athens ; we accepted his offer, and, having bargained with 
 
80 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 the karavikyrios, or captain of the bark, for the passage, we de- 
 parted early on the following morning for the port where we had a 
 few weeks before remained so long weather-bound. An English 
 ship from Malta, the Lauderdale, was anchored there : we went on 
 board to visit the captain, and left our luggage in the consul's ware- 
 house. 
 
 On our return to the shore we were not a little surprized to 
 find that all had been stolen ; we were, in consequence of this rob- 
 bery, obliged to protract our stay in the island several days : grati- 
 tude binds me to acknowledge (and with sincere pleasure do I fulfil 
 that duty) the active exertions of the vice-consul, by whose means 
 we re-obtained possession of the stolen goods : the theft had been 
 committed by three persons, one of whom was the egoumenos, or 
 abbot of a convent in the island. It is an assertion which many 
 travellers have made, and I believe with justice, that hardly ever is 
 any crime committed in modern Greece, the instigator and mover 
 of which is not a minister of religion ; nay, strange as it may'appear, 
 the hordes of Maniote pirates have each their priest, who invokes 
 the assistance of the Almighty in their sanguinary expeditions, and 
 pronounces a holy benediction upon the heads of the ruthless ad- 
 venturers. 
 
 We experienced great hospitality during our second stay here ; 
 all, but more particularly the women, pitied our state, thus destitute 
 and at such a distance from home ; they were ever ready to render us 
 little assistances, which spoke the feelings of their bosoms — were we 
 sitting near a peasant's cottage, fruits and refreshments were brought 
 to us ; were we climbing the rocks between the town and the port, 
 all who met us greeted us with words of consolation and expressions 
 of pity ; in short, during our endeavours to re-obtain our lost effects, 
 we witnessed more than enough to convince us, that although igno- 
 rance and depravity may impel some individuals to disgrace the 
 country by their crimes, yet these islanders possess the foundation 
 of all the social virtues — humanity. 
 
PASSAGE TO ATHENS. 
 
 FALCONER S SHIPWRECK — SUNIAN SICKNESS — LAND1NC AT THE PIRAEUS — DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE COUNTRY — CONVENT — MONK JOURNEY TO ATHENS — SUN-RISE PEASANTS — 
 
 ENTRANCE OF THE TOWN QUARANTINE BUONAPARTE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA 
 
 PRINCESS OF WALES CONSUL HIS FAMILY. 
 
 WE embarked at the fall of day on board the consul's boat; it 
 was loaded with onions, wine, and cheese, three articles for which it 
 seems Zea is celebrated. For Athens the wind was not favourable, 
 and the day began to break when we found ourselves close to the 
 S uni an promontory : there 
 
 " Colonna frowns on high, 
 
 Where marble columns, long by time defae'd, 
 Moss cover'd, on the lofty cape are plac'd ; 
 There rear'd by fair devotion, to sustain 
 In elder times Tritonia's sacred fane." 
 
 My fellow travellers landed to view the ruins ; they consist of co- 
 lumns of white marble, of the Doric order : names of marjy travel- 
 lers are seen scratched on the marble : flocks of wild pigeons fre- 
 quent the neighbouring rocks, which have been admirably described 
 in the Shipwreck of Falconer, a poem, the poetic beauties of which 
 are rivalled by the scrupulous exactness of its descriptions. 
 
 A calentura, which I had caught in the marshes of Zea, obliged 
 me to remain on board : the heat of the sun soon rendered me in- 
 capable of feeling, and it was not till the evening that my delirium 
 ceased. I found then that we had passed Laurium, Patrocli, &c. 
 and that we were entering the Piraeus. The sounds of Atene, 
 Atene, striking my ear, awoke me from my feverish lethargy ; I 
 leapt from the boat, and, in treading for the first time the Attic 
 shore, felt as all must feel who have read the pages of Grecian his- 
 
 M 
 
82 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 tory, but as few, very few, can describe — Where now are the superb 
 temples which adorned this shore ? Where those magazines, crowded 
 with merchants ? Where those streets, thronged with mariners of 
 every nation ? — All, desert and abandoned, reposes in the melancholy 
 quiet of ruin. — A few barks, with their long tops, bearing the furled 
 sail at the mast head, were moored close to the land ; on the shore 
 stood a dirty hovel, dignified with the name of warehouse ; a muddy 
 marsh extended towards the left ; there a few cranes, seeking their 
 scanty food, interrupted now and then the dead silence with the 
 heavy napping of their wings : on the right was seen the monastery 
 of St." Spiridion ; and the prospect was bounded on every side by 
 hillocks, which seemed barely able to afford sustenance to a few 
 squills, the only flower with which nature decks these barren rocks. 
 
 To reach Athens that evening was impossible, for it would have 
 been necessary to send to the town to procure mules ; we pro- 
 ceeded, therefore, to the monastery, a stone edifice, with a wide 
 entrance : it was built in a rectangular shape, and the small chapel 
 of the fathers stood in the middle of the court : the loud barking of 
 dogs greeted us at our approach, and, after some time, a kaloieros 
 (or monk) made his appearance: he was a man of middle age; a 
 thin-set beard covered his pointed chin, and a duty woollen cap 
 shaded his face, the features of which bespoke the total absence of 
 every manly feeling : a long robe, gathered together with a leathern 
 girdle, fell to his feet, upon which he wore two rough-worked san- 
 dals. The karavikyrios, who had guided us to the convent, carried 
 the hand of this holy man to his forehead, and explained our want 
 of a night's lodging ; the monk viewed us with his sharp and diminu- 
 tive eyes, shrugged his shoulders, and after a short pause informed 
 us that the egouinenos, or abbot, was not in the convent ; fear of the 
 port miasmata had driven him to Athens — there were no accom- 
 modations in the building — the society had no provisions left ; 
 — but the sight of a piece of gold soon overcame the nume- 
 rous difficulties which avarice had raised ; the father, holding in 
 his hand a lighted torch of deal wood, conducted us by a wooden 
 
PASSAGE TO ATHENS. 83 
 
 staircase, erected on the outside of the building, to a long room, the 
 Avails of which were decorated with numerous inscriptions and many 
 ugly faces, traced with charcoal and red ochre. A large mat of 
 Spartan rushes was spread on the floor; upon this we extended 
 ourselves, wrapped in our blankets, and having our portmanteaus 
 for pillows : the wind whistled through the partly untiled roof, the 
 noise of which, joined to the fretfulness of sickness and the impa- 
 tience of entering Athens, hindered me from sleeping ere the dawn 
 of day ; then all in the convent was hurry and bustle : we looked 
 from the windows, and saw the yard filled with mules and asses, 
 loaded with skins of oil, which the muleteers and monks were busy 
 pouring into casks ready for exportation : we afterwards learnt that 
 the pashà of Euboea, under whose despotic jurisdiction the country 
 of Themistocles now groans, had, for some trivial reason, forbidden 
 any oil to be exported from Attica, except by certain monopolists ; 
 the inhabitants had, in consequence, recourse to smuggling, and 
 the contraband goods were placed under the protection of Agios 
 Spiridion and his monks, until they could be embarked on board a 
 French schooner, which was daily expected in the port. 
 
 With one of the drivers we bargained for three horses and two 
 asses to carry us to Athens : we proceeded along the ancient wall of 
 the Piraeus ; the foundations are strewn over the road. When we 
 had passed the eminences which surround the port, and had entered 
 the plain, Athens was seen before us, its Acropolis seeming as an 
 immense and precipitous block, torn by some powerful hand from 
 the distant mountain-range, and hurled into the centre of the plain : 
 extensive vinevards and vast olive grounds are cultivated in this 
 neighbourhood; the night dew had refreshed the plants; the un- 
 clouded sky bore that dark colour which is the sign of constant 
 serenity; the air itself felt light to the bosom, and convinced us that 
 the climate of Athens is deservedly celebrated. We saw the rise of 
 the sun behind Hymettus, and never, should I even treble the age 
 of man, shall I forget the sublimity of the sight : the rays first 
 gilded the tops of the range of Pentelicus, then gradually illuminated 
 
 M2 
 
84 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 the mountain sides, and finally shone in full lustre on the plain, 
 shewing Athens in all her beauty; — to witness such a sight is an 
 umple recompence for all the toil, for all the anxiety of a traveller. 
 I have seen the Coliseum, and wondered that men could travel so 
 far to see a monument ; I have seen Santa Sophia, and wondered 
 that men could face the dangers of the plague to see a temple : but 
 when I have passed the snow -clad Alps — when I have witnessed a 
 volcanic eruption, or beheld an eastern sun-rise — then I have no 
 longer been surprised at the attractions travel offers to the lover of 
 nature. 
 
 We met several droves of horses and mules, conveying goods to 
 Porto Leone, or the Piraeus ; the guides, placing their left hand on 
 their bosom, saluted us with a kale eméra, accompanied by a grace- 
 ful inclination, which seemed to prove that some remains of Attic 
 politeness have been transmitted to the modern Athenians. We 
 stopped at about half-way at a well ; our driver drew up water in 
 the flaccid skin bucket which hung on his back, and poured it into 
 the hollowed trunk of a tree, to refresh the thirsty cattle : we then 
 proceeded on our way to Athens. 
 
 We entered the city by a gate near the temple of Theseus, at 
 which we were stopped to shew our passports, a practice which we 
 had thought unknown in the Turkish dominions. We found after- 
 wards that a guard had been placed at the different gates, to stop 
 those coming from Egripos or Eubosa, in which, at this time, the 
 plague was, and had been raging with dreadful fury : the Vaivode, 
 or Turkish governor of the city, had been persuaded by the con- 
 suls to establish this quarantine, or rather imitation of quarantine ; 
 and the peasants who came from the infected country beyond the 
 range of Pentelicus, were excluded the town, and imprisoned as 
 pestiferous beings. The day after our arrival a messenger from the 
 pashà of Egripos was, however, allowed to pass the gates, and to 
 cross the whole town to go to the Vaivode's house ; much be- 
 nefit, therefore, cannot be expected from the establishment of a 
 quarantine in Turkey, since the first emissary of power may infringe 
 
PASSAGE TO ATHENS. 85 
 
 its laws with impunity. Quarantine is one of those punishments 
 (I say punishment, for certainly to be incarcerated forty days 
 must be deemed such) which government inflicts upon indivi- 
 duals, not for any crime they have committed, but for the pre- 
 servation of society in general ; its laws, therefore, the members of 
 government and people of distinction and influence should most 
 scrupulously observe, that their example may teach others to sa- 
 crifice, without murmuring, their own interests and comforts to 
 the public good ; — how seldom do we see this example offered 
 by persons of rank and authority ! Buonaparte, at his return 
 from Egypt, landed at Fréjus, and continued his journey without 
 even presenting himself at the health office ; his army performed a 
 severe quarantine of forty days in the Lazaret of Marseilles : the 
 emperor of Austria entered Trieste immediately at his return from 
 the Bocche di Cattaro, although the coast of Dalmatia was declared 
 to be in a state of disease ; and many ships from Ragusa were then 
 performing a rigid quarantine in the Lazaretto nuovo: the Princess 
 of Wales, at her return from her eastern tour, was allowed with all 
 her suite to disembark at Civita Vecchia ; the crew of the ship on 
 board of which she had come from Palestine performed quarantine 
 at Genoa. 
 
 From the gate we continued our way by the temple of Theseus, 
 which stands upon a small eminence in the centre of an open un- 
 paved space, bound on one side by the city walls, on the other by 
 the houses of the town. We were guided through several narrow, 
 crooked, and unpaved streets, to the house of Logothete, the British 
 consul : before the houses were strewed round cakes of the remains 
 of olive pulp, after the oil has been expressed ; these cakes, when 
 dried by the sun, serve the inhabitants as fuel, and nearly resemble 
 those of tan which I have seen in different towns of England : the 
 inhabitants stood at the door, and welcomed us with hospitality to 
 Athens ; several young lads, in their loose dresses, accompanied us 
 on the way, and pointed with exultation to the different monuments 
 as we passed. 
 
80 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Mr. Logothetè is a Greek ; his family is one of the most re- 
 spectable and most wealthy of Athens, and his ancestors have long 
 possessed the right of representing the British nation in Attica. 
 Athens was formerly only a vice-consulship, dependant upon the 
 general consul at Constantinople ; Logothete, having entertained 
 the Princess of Wales during her journey through Greece, and 
 accompanied her from Athens to Constantinople, was, for his ser- 
 vices, promoted to a consulship : he speaks French, Italian, and a 
 little English, and is certainly worthy of the nation whom he repre- 
 sents. The day we arrived was the festa of one of his children, and 
 the house was crowded with congratulating visitors : the entrance 
 was by a large arched gateway, at which stood several janissaries, 
 marks of the consular dignity ; this led to a large court, adorned 
 with trees and scattered with the fragments of antiquity : we were 
 shewn into a long gallery, in which Avere assembled the visitors ; we 
 were then placed upon a raised cushion along the wall, and served 
 with refreshments : many Grecian ladies were seated on the sofa ; their 
 flowing dress, bound with a double zone, was enchantingly grace- 
 ful : their glossy hair hung in long tresses, adorned with jewels ; 
 when they reclined on the cushions they threw off their light bus- 
 kins, and exposed, for a moment, a snow-white foot and well-turned 
 ancle, which they, however, immediately concealed under the folds 
 of their train : beauty and modesty beamed in each feature, and 
 prepossessed the traveller in favour of the Athenian fair. 
 
 We lodged, during our stay, at the house of an Italian physician, 
 whose real name I have forgotten, but who is known at Athens 
 under that of Romanos : he has in the bazar a small shop, tolerably 
 well stocked with drugs, and seems, in some degree, superior to 
 most of the medical persons whom one meets in Turkey. We took 
 at his house two or three rooms ; we hired likewise a Greek servant 
 and a Venetian cook, with whose assistance we set up a very com- 
 fortable household. 
 
ATHENS. 
 
 *HE FRENCH CONSUL — TEMPLE OF THE EIGHT WINDS TEKE — DERVICH3 — POIKILE 
 
 KtSLAR AGA VAIVODE AGORA — TEMPLE OF THESEUS TWEDDELL DEATH OF AN 
 
 ENGLISH TRAVELLER — AREOPAG US — PN'VX — PI) ILOPAPPOS MUSEUM^THEATRE OF 
 
 BACCHUS — LANTHORN OF DEMOSTHENES — CAPUCHIN MONASTERY ADRIAN'S ARCH 
 
 TEMPLE OF JUPITER OLYMPUS — TURKISH GAMES — CHORAGIC MONUMENT OF THRA- 
 SYLLUS ODEUM — VARIOUS OPINIONS OF ANTIQUARIES — GREEK WEDDING. 
 
 X HE city of Minerva has been so often described, that it is unne- 
 cessary I should warn you not to expect any thing new in my ob- 
 servations upon the town : we all, however, feel for the classic re- 
 gions the same interest and respect that we evince for the aged 
 warrior in the few last years of life which the service of his country 
 has allowed him to allot to repose ; we eagerly listen to the 
 most trifling particulars given by those who witnessed the latter 
 days of Marlborough or Washington ; as eagerly likewise do we 
 listen to the descriptions given by those who have visited Athens 
 and Sparta, and who have for a moment raised the dark shroud 
 which covers the lifeless yet beauteous form of Greece. 
 
 We rested some time in our new lodgings, both to refresh our- 
 selves from the fatigues of the journey, and to refit our dress, which 
 certainly was the worse for wear, and not worthy of doing honour to 
 Attic refinement : tailors there were none in the city who could 
 stitch an European coat: with some difficulty a Neapolitan shoe- 
 maker was procured, but he had no leather; we were, therefore, 
 obliged to content ourselves with the clothes we had brought with 
 us ; these we rendered as respectable as beating and brushing could 
 make them, and then paid our visits to those for whom we had let- 
 ters of recommendation ; we were by all received with politeness : 
 Mr. Fauvcl, the French consul, welcomed us Avith a civility much 
 
88 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 greater than we could have expected ; this gentleman is praised by 
 all travellers for his excessive hospitality and great urbanity of man- 
 ners, evinced equally to strangers of every nation : he has been more 
 than thirty years resident at Athens ; he is regarded as a father by 
 the inhabitants, and is respected by all travellers as a man of vast 
 acquirements and great research ; we had no letter of recommenda- 
 tion to this gentleman, but as we had often heard his name men- 
 tioned, we took the liberty of paying our respects to him soon after 
 our arrival. Over the door of his house (the most respectable of 
 Athens) are quartered the arms of France : he received us upon 
 the steps, dressed in the consular uniform, and led us to an apart- 
 ment strewed with books, drawings, and antiques of all kinds : of 
 these Mr. Fauvel shewed us several with true antiquarian pride, 
 making upon each many observations, all of which would have been, 
 without doubt, highly interesting to one initiated in the science. We 
 drank coffee with the consul, and received from him much useful ad- 
 vice as to the objects most worthy of being seen in the town : of these, 
 therefore, I will give you as brief an account as the nature of the 
 subject will allow. Our Greek servant, who spoke Italian very in- 
 telligibly, served us as cicerone, and guided us through the crooked 
 streets of Athens to those ruins which Fauvel had pointed out as the 
 most important. 
 
 The Temple of the Eight Winds. — This was an octagonal 
 tower, built by the Athenian astronomer, Andronicus Cyrrhestes ; 
 upon each side of which was engraved a dial, the name of the wind 
 which blew from that side, with an allegorical basso relievo figure ; 
 the roof was in the shape of a pyramid, upon the top of which (with 
 what architectural taste you will determine) was a brass triton, with 
 a stick in his hand, pointing always to the side whence the wind 
 blew. 
 
 The situation of the building seems by no means adapted to 
 determine the true bearing of the wind ; it is too much sheltered by 
 the Acropolis ever to have been of any use ; the triton no longer 
 
ATHENS. 89 
 
 exists but the figures and the names of the winds are still seen very 
 distinctly: — EXPOS, South-East; called Sirocco in the Mediterra- 
 nean : AIIHAIQTHE, East ; in the Mediterranean Levante : KAIKIAE, 
 North- East ; in the Mediterranean Greco: BOPEAE, North; in the 
 Mediterranean Tramontana: EKIPQN, North-West; in the Mediter- 
 ranean Maestro: ZE*TPOE, West; in the Mediterranean Ponente: 
 notoe, South ; in the Mediterranean Ostro: AI*, South- West; in 
 the Mediterranean Libeccio. 
 
 This tower is now converted into a téké, or Mohammedan chapel, 
 wherein the Athenian Dervishs exhibit before strangers different 
 tricks of agility and sleight of hand ; such as turning themselves 
 round with rapidity and uttering shrieks, mingled with cries of ia 
 allah, ia hoo-hoo-hoo ;* piercing themselves with swords, eating fire, 
 tossing red-hot firebrands ; all of which the deluded Mohammedan 
 thinks a proof of the divine inspiration : upon the entrance ar» 
 traced some Arabic words, expressing that "There is no God but 
 God, and Mohammed is his prophet." 
 
 Poikile. — This was a vast Stoa, or portico, adorned with pictures 
 of various celebrated masters ; hence it derived its name (w»x/Xo?, 
 various .) in the interior were hung the trophies of victories gained 
 over the Scionians and Lacedaemonians ; the bucklers of the latter 
 were covered with pitch, that they might resist the ravages of time 
 and rust. The statue of the lawgiver Solon was placed with several 
 others before the portico. Stewart, in his immortal work upon 
 Athens, has proved that some extensive remains, seen near the 
 house of the Vaivode, or governor of Athens, belonged probably to 
 this edifice. 
 
 Athens depends upon the Kislar Agà, or chief of the black 
 eunuchs, to whose place the town is attached : it is he who nomi- 
 
 * " Oh God! Oh God!" hoo is an Arabic word, signifying he, or he is: when alone it is 
 used to designate the Almighty, answering to the epithet which God gives to himself, " I am 
 that I am ;" it is always placed at the head of passports, letters patent, and other acts drawn up 
 by Mohammedans : [»*]• 
 
 N 
 
90 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 nates the Vaivode,* or governor of the town, from whom he receives 
 a yearly revenue ; and to him the Athenians appeal when the neigh- 
 bouring pashà of Egripos endeavours to raise a forced contribution : 
 as the Kislar Agà has more influence at the porte than the pashà, it 
 of course follows that this latter is generally obliged to yield. Strange 
 as it sounds, the descendants of Cecrops think it one of their 
 greatest privileges to belong to a Turkish eunuch. The Vaivode 
 who governed at Athens while we were there was an old man, much 
 respected by the inhabitants : his house was large, but not particu- 
 larly well built ; near it was placed the prison, in which I observed 
 a few miserable wretches who had not been able to pay their contri- 
 bution : the harem of this hoary son of Mohammed consisted of four 
 women. 
 
 Near the Poikile stood the agora, or market; its entrance is 
 «aid to be indicated by a portico, supported upon four Doric pillars, 
 and which is yet standing : near it, on the left wall, is shewn a long 
 inscription, containing an edict of Adrian respecting the sale of 
 oil, and certainly not inapplicable to the entrance of a market in 
 which so much oil was daily sold. It was in this spot that the an- 
 cient Athenians had their different markets for provisions, which 
 every morning were crowded with buyers and sellers. The bazar 
 occupies probably great part of the site of the agora, and it is diffi- 
 cult to conceive greater bustle than that which continues even now 
 to enliven the scene every morning in this neighbourhood : heaps of 
 fish, fruit, herbs, and meat, are seen on all sides, inviting, by their 
 cheapness, the townspeople to purchase ; the coffee-houses and the 
 best shops are in this quarter, and from sun-rise till noon all is hurry 
 and bustle, unaccompanied, however, with those noises which din 
 the ear in other towns — the rolling of wheels and the stepping of 
 horses are sounds unknown in the present market, and even the 
 papouches or slippers of the inhabitants tread the unpaved streets 
 without being heard. 
 
 ' This word appears to be derived from the Russian Voevoda, General. I am at a loss to 
 determine why travellers write it so frequently Vaiwode and Waiwode. 
 
ATHENS. 91 
 
 Temple of Theseus. — This well-preserved ruin, as I before 
 said, stands on a large open place, where a rope-maker was exer- 
 cising his trade when we passed : this spot is enlivened in the even- 
 ings with the youthful games of many Athenian boys ; it was near 
 this temple, according to Pausanias, that stood Ptolemey's gymna- 
 sium and the forum. A part of the temple is now used as a church, 
 dedicated to St. George : it is closed by a door made of flat iron 
 bars, at which the Turks, with most disgraceful impiety, amuse 
 themselves in trying the force of their muskets. In the chancel are 
 the graves of three English travellers, who have paid the debt of 
 nature in this country : one is that of the unfortunate Tweddell ; by 
 his side is buried a Mr. Walker, who fell a victim to a fever pro- 
 duced by fatigue and heat. The inscription upon Tweddeil's grave 
 is engraved in the true antique style, without stops or separations ; 
 it cannot be read without considerable attention and study : it is 
 indeed astonishing that men should be willing to sacrifice to the 
 mania of imitating the very errors of the ancients, the striking 
 effect which so beautiful an epitaph would produce on every reader 
 were it legible. A grave was digging for a Mr. Phillips, who had 
 died while making the tour of the Morea : he had quitted Athens in 
 August, a time when disease rages with violence in the Pelopon- 
 nesus ; relying upon the strength of his constitution, he had refused 
 to follow the advice given him by the consuls to defer his journey 
 till the autumn : he departed, neglecting even to provide himself 
 with medicine : we saw his name scratched upon one of the columns 
 of a temple in Arcadia, near which the peasants told us he was seized 
 with a fever, which threw him into delirium : we recorded his pre- 
 mature death under his name. By the uneducated, both Greeks 
 and Mohammedans, it is imagined that after interment the body of 
 a Frank is conveyed by some invisible power to his native land. 
 
 The Theseum is comparatively small, but its effect is striking : 
 in shape it is similar to the Parthenon : the beautiful frieze with which 
 it is decorated, represents part of the histories of Hercules and 
 Theseus : it is the most entire of all the Athenian monuments, 
 
 N2 
 
92 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 and long may the protecting genius of Greece defend it from 
 the defiling touch of the Turkish mason, and the no less destructive 
 dilapidations of European virtuosi. 
 
 The inscriptions mentioned by Sir G. Wheeler are still seen in 
 the chapel of St. George ; but the column on which they are in- 
 scribed is now nearly half covered with earth. The following is that 
 cut upon the marble slab which covers Tweddell's grave : — 
 
 TTEAAEAA 
 
 EYAEI2 EN <$>8IMEN0I2I MATHN 20<&IH2 IIOT EAPE¥A2 
 
 AN0EA KAI 2E NEON M0Y2 E<I>IAH2E MATHN 
 AAAA MONON TOI 2£2MA TO THINON AM*IKAAYIITEI 
 
 TYMB02 THN ¥YXHN 0YPAN02 AII1Y2 EXEI 
 HMIN A 01 2E 4>IA0I «AON £22 KATA AAKPY XE0NTE2 
 
 MNHMA <f>IA0<J>P02YNH2 XAQPON 0AYP0ME9A 
 HAY T 0MQ2 KAI TEPnNON EXEIN TOYT E2TIN A 
 
 £22 2Y BPETANN02 EQN KEI2AI EN 2II0AIH 
 
 3HOTHJ 
 
 This epitaph was written by the Rev. R. Walpole : the transla- 
 tion I extract from the Biographical Memoirs of the promising young 
 man whose death it commemorates : — 
 
 SLEEPEST THOU AMONG THE DEAD ? THEN HAST THOU CULL'd 
 
 IN VAIN FAIR LEARNING'S FLOWERS; THE MUSE IN VAIN 
 SMIl'd ON THY YOUTH YET BUT THY MORTAL MOULD 
 
 HIDES THIS DARK TOMB ; THY SOUL THE HEAVENS CONTAIN. 
 TO US WHO NOW OUR FRIENDSHIP TO RECORD 
 
 O'ER THEE, PALE FRIEND ! THE TEARS OF MEM'RY SHED, 
 SWEET SOLACE 'TIS, THAT HERE THY BONES ARE STORED, 
 
 THAT DUST ATHENIAN STREWS A BRITON'S HEAD. 
 
 Areopagus. — We passed through the same gate by which we 
 had entered Athens ; and, turning a little to the left, reached, in a 
 few minutes, the quarter in which stood the Areopagus, the Pnyx, 
 further without the walls the Academy, and the common Cemetery 
 of the ancient Athenians, slain in battle by sea or by land. 
 
 Some ruins on the top of a rock, to the west of the Acropolis, 
 are said to be the remains of the Areopagus : the women of Athens 
 have a strange idea that to slide down this declivity conduces much 
 to their fruitfulness ; the rock is consequently, in several places, 
 
ATHENS. 93 
 
 polished by repeated friction. The rock of the Areopagus is sepa- 
 rated by a narrow valley from that of the Pnyx ; the vast masonry 
 of which was uncovered by Lord Elgin : the tribunal is now easily 
 distinguished ; it is said that the thirty tyrants caused it to be re- 
 moved from its first situation, in order that the people might not, by 
 the sight of the sea, be encouraged to democracy : from the top of 
 the Pnyx rock the sea is certainly discernible, but it is as difficult to 
 determine where the ancient tribunal stood as it is to comprehend 
 how the sight of the sea could excite to democracy. On the ridge 
 leading from the Pnyx to the Musseum hill some excavated cham- 
 bers are shewn as the prison of Socrates : very little faith, however, 
 is to be given to what the modern Athenians relate concerning their 
 monuments ; the Tower of Andronicus Cyrrhestes bore for a long 
 time the name of Socrates' Sepulchre. The Athenian damsels, who 
 have not yet knelt before the hymeneal altar, endeavour to hasten 
 the happy moment by exposing here, at certain periods, bread, fruit, 
 and honey. 
 
 From the Pnyx we proceeded to the monument of Philopappos : 
 this person, designated by Pausanias as a "certain Syrian," was a 
 native of Beza, and by extraction he belonged to Syria, which his 
 ancestors ruled; he was " sullectus inter Praetorios ab imperatori 
 Caesari Nerva Trajano;" so much do we learn of this royal indivi- 
 dual by the inscription on his monument, without which his name 
 would long since have been forgotten. This monument stands on 
 the top of the Musseum hill ; it is by no means remarkable for any 
 beauty either of architecture or sculpture ; the figures in the basso 
 relievos are shapeless trunks, without hands, heads, or feet : squills 
 grow in abundance, and the marble is covered with the names of 
 travellers, many of whom seem to have gratified their vanity to the 
 imminent danger of their necks. 
 
 It was on the Musseum hill (now called to seggio) that the 
 Amazons encamped when they besieged the Athenians ; it was 
 thence also the Venetians shot the bombs which produced such 
 devastation in the Acropolis : it was surrounded with walls by 
 
94 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Demetrius, the conqueror of Cassander, and added to the city. We 
 are told that it received its name from the poet Musseus, who was 
 wont to sing there his verses, and after his death was buried on its 
 side. 
 
 The Theatre of Bacchus — is situated at the foot of the citadel : 
 as a ruin it presents little remarkable to those who have seen build- 
 ings of the same nature in Italy : in the precinct a donkey was crop- 
 ping the scanty herbage which grows among the fallen ruins. This 
 building contained the portraits of Euripides, Sophocles, and Me- 
 nander : the grotto in the rock mentioned by Pausanias is still seen : 
 over it was placed, in ancient times, a tripod, on which were sculp- 
 tured Apollo and Diana putting to death the sons of Niobe. 
 
 Several small columns were seen by Spon and Wheeler, bearing 
 the names of different individuals in whose memory they had been 
 placed in the theatre ; we observed one in the pit, inscribed *EIAH- 
 TIQN EINQIIETE. 
 
 Following the foot of the citadel towards the east, some ruinous 
 foundations are seen : they are supposed to have belonged to the 
 Portico of Eumenes : this was one of the principal walks of the 
 Athenians, and the general rendezvous of the peripatetic philoso- 
 phers : it was here that the idlers of the town likewise assembled to 
 hear the rehearsal of new plays. 
 
 The Lanthorn of Demosthenes. — This monument, known 
 under the name of tò cj>«v«f* rov &vnj.o<r$ém, an appellation which it has 
 taken from its form, and an absurd tradition that the great Athenian 
 orator shut himself up in this small building to study the rhetorical 
 art, is very well preserved. It is one of those buildings called Cho- 
 ragic monuments, erected in honour of those who had been vic- 
 torious in the exercises of the Gymnasium : the frieze is adorned 
 with a beautiful basso relievo, and an inscription, in which the 
 youths of the tribe Akamantis are commemorated as having been 
 victorious in the exercises. 
 
ATHENS. 95 
 
 This monument is converted into one of the rooms of a monas- 
 tery belonging to the Capuchin missionaries : the society of those 
 useful men is established at Constantinople ; and one of the mem- 
 bers, who is recalled every ten years, dwells constantly at Athens, 
 where he performs the duty of catholic minister, and receives Avith 
 hospitality all travellers : it was here that Chandler dwelt during his 
 stay at Athens; and it was here also that Lord Byron lodged. 
 Padre Paolo was the name of the venerable monk who was here in 
 1818 : he was preparing himself for departure, and was about to 
 return to Constantinople, carrying with him the commissions of the 
 principal Athenian merchants, their esteem and their regret. 
 
 Adrian's Arch is seen at no great distance from the Lanthorn 
 of Demosthenes ; it forms a part of the modern wall with which the 
 Turks have surrounded the town, destroying some of its finest 
 monuments to obtain materials for that purpose. On the side facing 
 the town are seen the words 
 
 AIAEIS A6HNAI GHSEQS H nPIN IIOAIS 
 
 On the opposite side, 
 
 AIAEIS AAPIANOY KAI OYXI 6H2EQ2 IIOAIS 
 
 Adrian erected many edifices in Athens, the temples of Juno, of 
 Jupiter Panellenius, and the Pantheon ; but his most splendid 
 work was a portico of a hundred and twenty columns of Phrygian 
 marble : the walls of which portico were built of the same marble : 
 there were within it vaults, gilded and inlaid with alabaster, and 
 adorned with statues, pictures, and libraries. He built also a Gym- 
 nasium, which bore his name ; it was supported by a hundred co- 
 lumns of African marble. 
 
 Temple of Jupiter Olympus. — Going out by a modern gate 
 near the Arch of Adrian, you see before you the remaining columns 
 of this wonderful edifice, raising their solitary capitals to an astonish- 
 ing height. This temple was first built by Deucalion, probably of 
 
96 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 wood ; this having been destroyed, or having fallen from age, a new 
 one was commenced by Pisistratus ; the first architects of the age 
 laid the foundations, but it remained a long time unfinished. Sylla 
 transported the columns to the Roman capitol : the Emperor Adrian 
 had the glory of terminating this mighty labour, of which now a few 
 pillars are the only remains. A hermit erected a cell upon the 
 remaining part of the architrave, and there, accessible only to the 
 cranes, he passed his life in the solitude of the airs, but within sight 
 of all the activity of Athens ; the hermit died long since, but his 
 small habitation still resists the blast which whistles round the tops 
 of the colums. 
 
 The temple is represented as having been four stadia in circuit ; 
 it was full of statues, for each of the Athenian cities, called colonies, 
 dedicated in it a bronze statue to Adrian ; Athens, however, sur- 
 passed all, raising to that emperor a colossus, worthy, says Pausa- 
 nias, to be seen. Within the temple was a sacred precinct, deno- 
 minated Olympic; the soil was there split to the width of a cubit; 
 it was pretended that after the deluge of Deucalion the water flowed 
 away by that gap, for which reason the priests threw into it annually 
 cakes of flour and honey. 
 
 The well-known Turkish amusement of the jerid is often exer- 
 cised in this place ; this game I had no opportunity of seeing 
 played ; we were present, however, at a match of running and 
 wrestling made by the Turks upon the road from Athens to Eleusis : 
 the wrestlers were uncovered to the middle like English boxers, and 
 oil was poured over their shoulders ; the principal aim of each 
 seemed to be to seize his adversary by the back of the neck, and so 
 to throw him, but I saw no particular dexterity exhibited ; different 
 prizes were given according to the skill of each, the last being pre- 
 sented with a water-melon, in the midst of the laughing jeers of all 
 the spectators. 
 
 Chateaubriand mentions that when the Turks are menaced with 
 any calamity, they bring to these pillars a lamb, and, turning its 
 head towards heaven, make it to bleat; despairing to find among 
 
ATHENS. 97 
 
 men a voice sufficiently innocent to avert the wrath of the Almighty, 
 they seek it in the brute creation. 
 
 Choragic Monument ofThrasyllus. — Re-entering the town, 
 we turned to the left, and again advancing to the foot of the citadel, 
 saw this monument, which has so often been described: it commemo- 
 rates three victories won by the youths of different tribes, in the 
 exercises of the Gymnasium. The cave is now consecrated to the 
 Virgin, who is worshipped under the name of Panagia Spiliotissa. 
 We saw under it the supposed remains of the Odeum : the roof of 
 this building, supported upon marble columns, was composed of the 
 wreck of the Persian ships destroyed in the memorable combat of 
 Salamis : now hardly can its site be determined. Pisistratus had 
 commenced building another more magnificent Odeum, but that 
 building was never finished. If I mistake not, it was situated be- 
 tween the Pnyx and the Theatre of Bacchus; it is mentioned by 
 Pausanias as a building made in imitation of Xerxes' tent. This 
 second Odeum must have been burnt by the Roman Sylla — less 
 could not have been expected from a barbarian, who carried his 
 ferocity so far as to destroy the very trees of the academy ; — from a 
 monster, who inundated half Athens with human gore, the blood 
 flowing from the agora through the Ceramicus, and by the Dipylon 
 gate into the suburbs. 
 
 So much for the monuments which are seen in the lower town of 
 Athens : I have given them the names which they have in the work 
 of Stuart, the descriptions and views of which are executed with so 
 much patient accuracy, that it may be said to contain Athens itself. 
 I should, however, be acting unfairly, did I not apprise you that the 
 names of many of them are much disputed : 1st. That which Stuart 
 calls the Poikile, is supposed by Sir George Wheeler to be the re- 
 mains of the famous temple of Jupiter Olympus ; by others it is said 
 to be neither the Poikile nor the Temple of Jupiter, but a building 
 of more modern date. 2dly. The Olympeion of Stuart is said by 
 Wheeler to be the remains of the Stoa, of a hundred and twenty 
 
 O 
 
98 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 columns, built by Adrian ; by others it is pretended that it is the 
 ruins of Adrian's Pantheon, and that the Temple stood quite to the 
 south. 3dly. What I have termed the Theatre of Bacchus is by 
 many supposed to be the ruins of an Odeum built by Herod the 
 Athenian, in honour of his wife, and mentioned by different authors 
 as one of the finest edifices in the world. 4thly. What I have sup- 
 posed to be the remains of the Odeum is by Chandler regarded as 
 those of the Theatre of Bacchus ; and the cave of Panagia Spiliotissa 
 as the Imjxauov of Pausanias. 5thly. The Pnyx, Sir George Wheeler 
 is willing to regard as the ruins of the Odeum : — but enough of 
 these dry antiquarian disquisitions, which can only teach us the vanity 
 of human greatness ; since, after a lapse of a few years, the tribune 
 of the orator is not to be distinguished from the seat of the musician. 
 
 Every traveller who has visited Athens for a few days, returns with 
 a description of the weddings, burials, and christenings at which he 
 assisted : whether during our stay Hymen had ceased to inspire the 
 Athenian youths, and death to strike, eequo jìede, I cannot deter- 
 mine ; but I assure you, although we remained at Athens more than 
 a month, we witnessed no funeral, and were present at one wed- 
 ding only ; — the happy couple was not of the highest rank : that you 
 should not, however, accuse my journal of being deficient in the 
 article of matrimony, I shall add to this chapter of musty antiquity 
 an account of one of the most extraordinary and ridiculous scenes I 
 ever witnessed. 
 
 It was on a Sunday afternoon ; the heat was excessive, and we 
 were occupied in arranging our journal ; my ear was struck with the 
 monotonous sound of a Greek tambour, and the noise of people 
 hurrying through the street : I followed them, and after turning 
 through two or three lanes, came to the spot whence the sound 
 proceeded. Some dirty musicians, with a tambour, a fiddle, and 
 a guitar, were dancing, playing, and singing ; after them came a 
 Greek damsel, supported by two grave matrons, and followed by a 
 long string of dames hoary with age : she was the bride, and notwith- 
 standing the thermometer stood at 96°, was covered with mantles and 
 
"' :- GREEK LADIES AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 . 
 
ATHENS. 99 
 
 furs ; her fingers' ends and joints were stained red ; the lower part of 
 her eyes was tinged with a blue colour, and her cheeks were orna- 
 mented with stars of black dye and leaf gold ; a dirty urchin, walk- 
 ing backwards, held a mirror in such a manner that the young 
 woman had her image constantly before her. 
 
 They moved literally at a snail's pace ; the people threw from 
 their windows and doors bottles of orange water, which perfumed 
 the air, and the crowd, loud in their expressions of joy and con- 
 gratulation, augmented as we advanced, hurrying round the bride, 
 whose brow was never bent with a frown, and whose lips were never 
 crossed with a smile during the ceremony. 
 
 The procession stopped at the house of the bridegroom; the 
 bride was seated in an arm chair, and placed on the right of the 
 house door ; on the opposite side was seated her husband, his hair- 
 less head uncovered ; by him stood a Turkish barber, holding in his 
 hand a circular looking-glass (similar to that with which Venus is 
 represented) and other shaving instruments : the music continued 
 playing, and the crowd shook the air with their shouts. Each, 
 placing a few parats on the barber's looking-glass, sprinkled with 
 orange water the face of the bridegroom, and kissed him on the 
 forehead and the eyes : the money thus collected was to pro- 
 cure a comfortable establishment for the young people ; I sub- 
 scribed my share, but preferred dispensing with the kisses. A 
 Greek, an old man, whose age was a sufficient excuse for the joke, 
 pushed me towards the bride, whom I was consequently obliged to 
 salute amidst the loud cheers of the assembly: — how the cere- 
 mony ended I cannot tell you, as the day fell, and I returned home 
 ere all had embraced the bridegroom. 
 
 OS 
 
ACROPOLIS, or ASTIL 
 
 ASCENT TO THE CITADEL PAUSANIAs' DESCRIPTION: — MODERN STATE OF THE CITADEL — 
 
 PROPYLEA PHENCETES — PARTHENON COMPARISON BETWEEN THE GRECIAN AND 
 
 THE GOTHIC ARCHITECTURES — STATE OP THE RUINS OF THE TEMPLE — TEMPLE OK 
 NEPTUNE ERECTHEUS — PORTICO OF THE PANDROSEON CARYATIDES THEIR INVEN- 
 TION — TEMPLE OF MINERVA POLIAS DISDAR-AGA EXPENCES OF VISITING THE 
 
 ACROPOLIS — LORD ELGIN ENGLISH TRAVELLERS. 
 
 X HE Disdar-Agà, or commander of the fort, having given us 
 permission to enter the citadel, now called tò hu^o, we proceeded to 
 examine the ruins of the Acropolis. 
 
 This rock, on all sides precipitous, can be approached but 
 by one steep ingress on the western part.* All know that here 
 the first city was founded ; and indeed a better situation for 
 defence against the incursion of pirates and barbarians could not 
 have been chosen, at a time when warfare was no more than 
 a mere conflict of forces, unguided by science. The first inhabit- 
 ants found the thick-set bushes a sufficient addition to the strength 
 of nature ; for they had only to resist bands of robbers, who per- 
 haps hardly knew the use of even the sword or battle-axe : the 
 Pelasgi afterwards surrounded it with walls, and, in the course of 
 time, habitations were erected at the foot of the rock. The town 
 of Cecrops became the citadel of Athens, and, as it were, a huge 
 pedestal, on which Architecture exposed her mighty works to the 
 eyes of Greece. — Now that the iron chain of the Osmanlis binds the 
 land of genius, the Acropolis has been transformed into a miserable 
 fort, walled with the ruins of temples, and guarded by a band of 
 slothful and avaricious soldiers, from whom those, the love of the 
 arts, or the recollections of history bring to Athens, must purchase 
 
 * A flight of ruined steps, at the top of which is a téké, leads also from the Theatre of Bac- 
 chus to the citadel. 
 
ACROPOLIS. 101 
 
 the right of shedding a tear upon the remains of the wondrous works 
 of Phidias and Praxiteles. 
 
 We ascended towards the citadel by a paved way, flanked on 
 both sides by walls, in which were seen the remains of statues, co- 
 lumns, and inscriptions. A green-turbanned sentinel was seated at 
 the entrance, smoking under a shed ; he was the only guard we saw 
 in the fort. When we had made known to him our wish of seeing 
 the ruins, he raised himself on his feet, and taking up his tobacco 
 bag, accompanied us to the interior. 
 
 ' ' The entrance to the Acropolis is called the Propyléa (w{otua«/«) ; 
 they are roofed with white marble, and the blocks of which they are 
 
 built are greater than in any other bxiilding of my time to the 
 
 right of the Propyléa is the Temple of Victory without wings ; from 
 that side the sea is seen, and thence it is said iEgeus (the father of 
 
 Theseus) precipitated himself to the left of the Propyléa is a 
 
 room, in which are many pictures by Polygnotus and others .... at 
 the entrance of the Propyléa are the Graces and Mercury, sculp- 
 tured by the philosopher Socrates 
 
 " After the Propyléa, and immediately entering the citadel, were 
 seen many monuments, among which are particularly enumerated, 
 
 " A statue of Leaena, the courageous mistress of Aristogiton." 
 
 " A statue of Diitrephos." 
 
 " The stone upon which Silenus rested when Bacchus came into the country." 
 
 " Lycius and Perseus, sculptured by Myron." 
 
 " The Temple of Diana Brauronia, with a statue by Praxiteles." 
 
 " The statue of Minerva beating Sylenus Marsias." 
 
 " A statue, with a helmet and silver nails." 
 
 " A statue of the earth." 
 
 " Timotheus." 
 
 " Minerva shewing the olive." 
 
 " Neptune discovei'ing the water." 
 
 " Jove Leocharis." 
 
 " Jove Polieus." 
 
 " Entering the temple which they call Parthenon, that which is 
 
102 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 expressed on the tympanum regards the birth of Minerva; that 
 which is upon the opposite tympanum represents the contest be- 
 tween the Goddess and Neptune for Attica. The statue of the 
 goddess is of gold and ivory ; upon her helm is placed the sphynx, 
 
 on both sides of which are represented griffons the statue 
 
 stands erect in a vest reaching to the feet ; on her bosom are seen 
 the head of Medusa, in ivory, and a victory, four cubits high. In 
 her hand she holds the spear, and near her feet, on one side, lies 
 the shield, on the other, the dragon, which perhaps is Ericthon. 
 Upon the base of the statue is represented the birth of Pandora . . . 
 
 looking around, I recognised the portrait of Adrian and 
 
 Iphicrates beyond the temple is an Apollo of brass, by 
 
 Phidias j it is called Apollo Parnopius, the God having delivered 
 the country from locusts (ot^vote?) " 
 
 " Other statues are seen in the citadel, among which are those 
 of Pericles, his father Xantippus .... and the poet Anacreon, repre- 
 sented as a man singing in drunkenness .... near the north wall 
 are seen the war of the Giants ; the fight between the Athenians and 
 the Persians ; the battle of Marathon ; the rout of the Gauls in 
 
 Mysia ; and the portrait of Olympiodorus near which 
 
 stands the statue of Diana Leucophrys, dedicated by the sons of 
 Themistocles, because the Magnesians, who, by order of the king of 
 Persia, were under the government of Themistocles, venerate that 
 Goddess " 
 
 " There is also the hall of Erechtheus, before the entrance to 
 
 which is the altar of Jove Hypatus Entering the edifice, 
 
 many altars are seen ; that of Neptune, upon which they sacrifice to 
 Erechtheus ; that of the hero Boutus ; and, finally, that of Vulcan. 
 Upon the walls are pictures which have reference to the family of 
 Boutus, and as the building is double, in the inner part is a well of 
 sea water .... in which is heard the noise of the waves when the 
 south wind blows ; on the rock is seen the figure of a Trident . . . ." 
 
 " The statue most venerated of Minerva, is that which is now 
 preserved in the citadel, formerly called the city : it is said that it 
 
ACROPOLIS. 103 
 
 fell from heaven Callimachus made a lamp of gold for the 
 
 Goddess, which, although they furnish it with oil only once in the 
 year, burns night and day. The wick is of Carpasian flax (asbestos,) 
 the only flax which is not consumed by fire ; a brazen palm-tree, 
 extending its branches to the roof, dispels the smoke " 
 
 " In the Temple of Minerva Poli as is placed a wooden 
 Mercury, concealed by the branches of a myrtle which surround it : 
 in this place are likewise seen, the pliable seat of Daedalus ; the mail 
 of Masistius, who commanded the Persian cavalry at Platea ; the 
 pretended sword of Mardonius ; and the wonderful olive tree, which 
 having been burnt by the Persians, grew up the same day to the 
 height of two cubits. Contiguous to the Temple of Minerva is that 
 of Pandrosos. Not far from the Temple of Minerva Polias is the 
 
 habitation of the Canephori Near the temple are also 
 
 the statues of Immaradus, of Eumolpus, killed by Erechtheus." 
 
 " Upon a pedestal are the statues of the Augur of Tolmides, and 
 
 Tolmides himself there are many other statues of Minerva, 
 
 spoilt by the fire in the Persian assault, that would hardly bear a 
 blow. There is also the representation of a boar hunt; Cyknus 
 
 fighting with Hercules Theseus, when a boy, attacking the 
 
 lion-skin of Hercules, having mistaken it for a lion; the same, at 
 the age of sixteen, raising the stone under which iEgeus had put the 
 
 sword and sandals Marathon dedicated a sculpture, in which 
 
 Theseus was represented killing the bull of Marathon " 
 
 " There is also the statue of Cylon, who aspired to the tyranny 
 Besides the statues I have described, there are two of- 
 fered by the Athenians from their spoils in war ; one of brass, repre- 
 senting Minerva, the work of Phidias ; the offering from the spoils 
 of the Medes at Marathon ; upon the shield of the G oddess is the 
 battle of the Lapithse and the Centaurs ; which, as well as all the 
 other ornaments, are said to have been made by Mys, after the de- 
 sign of Parrhasius, son of Evenor. Even from Sunium the sailors 
 see the point of the spear of the statue. The other work, an offer- 
 ing from the spoils of the Boeotians and Chalcidenses of Eubcea, is a 
 
104 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 chariot of brass. There are, moreover, two other gifts, the Pericles, 
 son of Xantippus ; and the statue of Minerva, the most wonderful 
 of Phidias' labours, called from those who gave it, Lemnian.'" 
 
 " The walls of the citadel, excepting those built by Cimon, the 
 
 son of Miltiades, were erected by the Pelasgi Descending 
 
 from the citadel, not indeed down to the lower city, but just under 
 the Propyléa, there is a source of water, and near it a Temple of 
 Apollo, and Pan in a cave. They suppose that it was here Apollo 
 seduced Creusa " 
 
 I have extracted the preceding account from Pausanias, that you 
 may have an idea of what, in olden times, was to be seen in the 
 Acropolis, without the fatigue of wading through seven chapters of 
 one of the most insipid writers of antiquity. I shall now proceed to 
 give you a succinct account of what we saw on this most celebrated 
 spot; but the race of Grecian glory has long since been run, and 
 nought remains but the nearly effaced footsteps of those who con- 
 tended for the prize. 
 
 After the cannonading of the Venetian artillery, the dilapidations 
 of Turkish masons, and the purloinings of classic virtuosi, we can 
 expect to find but few remains upon this celebrated rock ; enough, 
 however, yet stands to convince us that the buildings were not un- 
 worthy of the praises lavished upon them by the writers of antiquity. 
 
 The first object that strikes the spectator is the ruins of the Pro- 
 pyléa, or entrance of the citadel : it is said that the erecting of these 
 gates cost two thousand and twelve talents, and, judging from the 
 wonderful remains, one is inclined to believe that the sum is not 
 exaggerated : a noble flight of marble steps led thence down to the 
 Areopagus ; of these not a vestige now remains. The chamber of 
 Theseus has long since been destroyed, and the Temple of Victory 
 was unroofed and shaken to its foundation by an explosion of gun- 
 powder. We were shewn a dark chamber of this edifice ; a crevice 
 between two blocks admitted a reddish dim light, which is re- 
 garded as miraculous by the Athenians, who are as fond of the mar- 
 
ACROPOLIS. 105 
 
 vellous as any northern barbarian. We were told, both by our 
 Greek servant and our Turkish guide, that it was tò ky'm $£g, " the 
 holy light :" the former a shrewd fellow, whom communication with 
 travellers had perhaps rendered a little sceptical, hinted to us, in a 
 low voice, that, as he had never heard that it shone during the 
 night, he doubted very much whether it was rè àyiov <$>«?. The 
 Phengetes, seen by other travellers, was not shewn to us. 
 
 Passing from the Propyléa over scattered blocks, and between 
 huts belonging to the soldiers of the garrison, we came to the Par- 
 thenon, the temple of the protecting Goddess of Athens : the roof 
 of this edifice was destroyed by a Venetian bomb ; it has been de- 
 prived of its finest ornaments of sculpture, and nought but a few co- 
 lumns are now left standing — but never, so long as memory remains, 
 shall I forget the effect produced on my mind when first those pillars 
 presented themselves to my sight ; my ideas were all absorbed in a 
 mingled feeling of wonder, of awe, of regret. Let him who denies 
 the sublimity of Grecian architecture travel to Athens, view the 
 ruins of the Parthenon, and be silent. 
 
 This edifice, seen from all parts of the neighbourhood, was to be 
 worthy of the people who erected it, and of the Divinity adored within 
 its walls : sublimity was, therefore, the principal aim to be attained 
 by the architects ; and never was man more successful — never did 
 man approach nearer to the Deity in his power over the human 
 soul. — Till I came to Athens, I had thought that awful majesty was 
 the character of Gothic architecture alone ; I afterwards found my 
 opinion erroneous, and I was convinced that the Doric order at 
 least could equally impress the mind with feelings of veneration and 
 respect — I was not singular in my prejudice. You will, perhaps, 
 therefore excuse me, if I endeavour to trace some of the principal 
 features in which the sublimity of Grecian architecture differs from 
 that of the Gothic. 
 
 The architecture of different lands, for the same reason as their 
 language and their literature, is in a great measure connected with 
 the genius of the inhabitants ; that genius, on the other hand, de- 
 
 P 
 
106 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 pends not a little upon the climate and nature of the country ; thus, 
 for instance, we find in every Italian town fine walks, elegant coffee- 
 houses, large pleasure gardens, and all the conveniences for diver- 
 sion, in the open air : the Englishman, on the contrary, subject to 
 a perpetual variation of climate, takes but little delight in the amuse- 
 ments of France and Italy ; his whole happiness and comfort are cen- 
 tered in his home ; in Great Britain therefore, as might be expected, 
 the interior of the houses is far more comfortable than in any of the 
 southern countries of Europe : winter in Naples is as disagreeable 
 as summer in London ; in the former no preparations are thought 
 of to guard against the cold, few of the houses having any chimneys ; 
 while in the latter preparations are equally neglected to guard 
 against the heat ; the foot still treads on woollen carpets, and the 
 list still impedes the ingress of air by the smallest opening. 
 
 In ancient Greece, blessed with the finest of climates, the great- 
 est happiness of the inhabitants must have been to enjoy the beauties 
 of their land ; hence our ideas paint them to us much more fre- 
 quently in the open air than under the cover of their houses : we 
 represent them to ourselves generally either assembled in their open 
 Pnyx, listening to their orators, or following a procession in honour 
 of their Gods, or attending, as they walk, to the precepts of their 
 philosophers : in the construction, therefore, of a Grecian temple, a 
 commanding situation and sublimity in the exterior were more ne- 
 cessary to be sought than interior beauty; and there can be no 
 doubt that, however beautiful the Parthenon and other temples of 
 the Greeks might have been when seen from without, the interior 
 by no means corresponded to the exterior. 
 
 In northern regions, where the climate, even in summer, is va- 
 rious, and where, during one half of the year, the frame is nipped 
 with cold and the earth covered with snow, the Almighty must be 
 worshipped under some roof, which may shelter from the in- 
 clemency of the weather ; there then the architect of a temple must 
 endeavour to imprint on the interior of his edifice a character of 
 majesty and sublimity, which may produce in the spectator feelings 
 of veneration and of awe ; and indeed what buildings answer that 
 
ACROPOLIS. 107 
 
 purpose more nobly than the Gothic cathedrals of England and 
 France ? I am aware that many will bring forward the Basilica of 
 St. Peter's as a proof that sublimity may be produced even in the in- 
 terior of a Greek or Roman building. But I cannot help thinking 
 that even in that edifice the effect produced by seeing the inside is 
 far inferior to that which is produced by the first view of the outside 
 at the entrance of the Piazza St. Pietro : and I have heard none 
 but bigoted Italian artists deny that they felt more awe and vene- 
 ration on entering the cathedral of York than on entering that of 
 St. Peter at Rome. I conclude, therefore, from what I have said, 
 that the Grecian and the Gothic styles of architecture have both 
 their peculiar beauties ; that the former is perfectly adapted to the 
 country in which it first was used ; but that the latter is infinitely 
 more appropriate to less favoured climates. I should think, conse- 
 quently, that our artists, instead of wandering so many miles to 
 measure the ruins of an architecture totally unfit for their country, 
 would pass their time in a manner infinitely more useful, were they 
 to study the numerous monuments of our own national style of 
 building. 
 
 After the first emotion, when we consider more nearly the ruins 
 of the Parthenon, we are struck at the immense size of the blocks, 
 and at the fine preservation of the marble, which appears to be 
 nearly in the same state as when first hewn, the only effect of so 
 many centuries of exposition to the open air being a yellowish tint, 
 which softens the dazzling brilliancy of the white. The columns 
 and the remaining ornaments are finished with incredible nicety, for 
 the patience of industry and the boldness of genius seem to have 
 vied with each other in their endeavours to adorn this noble monu- 
 ment. Within the Parthenon was formerly placed a Greek church, 
 the gaudy decorations of which are still in some places seen on the 
 white marble walls : it is now replaced by a Jammi, or mosque, be- 
 longing to the citadel ; the hemispherical tiled roof of this building, 
 contrasted with the surrounding ruins, forms an excellent caricature 
 of that semi-barbarous ornament, the Italian cupola. 
 
 P2 
 
108 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 By a ruined staircase of an ancient minaret we scrambled up to 
 the top of the Parthenon, where we had a fine view of Athens and 
 its vicinity : hence we proceeded to the Temple of Neptune Erech- 
 theus, situate behind the Parthenon, and on the left side of the 
 Acropolis ; united to it, on one side stands the Temple of Minerva 
 Polias, on the other that of the nymph Pandrosos : the well men- 
 tioned by Pausanias when describing the Hall of Erechtheus, still 
 exists ; at least so we are told by the Turks, since the Hall itself is 
 now used as a powder magazine, which can be entered only by 
 breaking down part of the masonry. 
 
 The capitals of the Ionic columns supporting the Temple of 
 Minerva Polias are of so astonishing a delicacy, that it seems incre- 
 dible marble could be so finely sculptured : I need not tell you that 
 the wonderful olive-tree no longer exists. 
 
 The portico of the Pandroseon was supported by six Caryatides, 
 one of which is now in the British Museum ; it has been replaced by 
 a column of brick and mortar. The Caryatides, as it is well known, 
 are columns in the shape of a woman deprived of arms and covered 
 with a garment reaching down to the feet. The origin of this order 
 was as follows : — the inhabitants of Carya having sided with the 
 invaders of Greece, were attacked and defeated by the Athenians, 
 who put to the sword all the men, and carried off the women in 
 triumph : to perpetuate this action, they represented those unfortu- 
 nate females in their triumphal vestments, supporting the entabla- 
 ture of their edifices — a barbarous and cruel revenge, unworthy of 
 so refined a nation as the Athenians. Like the Persic order, the 
 Caryatides are an absurd invention, disgraceful to art; for what can 
 be more ridiculous than to represent the tender frame of a woman 
 supporting the crushing weight of a marble roof. The moderns, 
 anxious to introduce in their buildings all the faults of the ancients, 
 have not failed to ape their example in this respect also ; we now 
 constantly see porticos, &c. supported by tender females, tall Indians, 
 and often — proh pudor — by angels. 
 
 I have now described to you all the remarkable objects seen in 
 
ACROPOLIS. 
 
 100 
 
 the present citadel : we visited it almost every day during our stay 
 at Athens. Before we departed we called on the Disdar-Agà, 
 or commander of the fort, to give him the usual present, which is 
 expected from those who see the Parthenon : this ignorant and 
 avaricious old man received us standing, and we were presented with 
 pipes, coffee, and sweetmeats : the sweetmeats were of a particular 
 kind, which I have not seen elsewhere, the seeds of a species of fir- 
 apple boiled in sugar. The expenses of visiting the Acropolis were, 
 for three persons, as follow : — 
 
 Agà ... 12 piasters . 20 parats 
 Guard . . 5 
 Coffee-maker 3 
 
 20 ... 20 
 
 The coffee-maker in all large Turkish houses is a domestic of great 
 consequence, and always expects some present from the visitor. 
 
 Much has been said concerning the purchase made by Lord 
 Elgin of the basso-relievos of the Parthenon, and every one has 
 heard of the satirical line cut upon the walls of the Pandroseon : — 
 " Quod non fecerunt Goti hoc fecerunt Scoti :" — the French 
 have endeavoured to cover the noble traveller with bombastic abuse, 
 and the prince of modern poets has not disdained to use his power- 
 ful eloquence in reprobating the conduct of the English government 
 in buying the sculptures of the Acropolis : architects deplore the 
 destruction of the most noble monument of their art, and that it has 
 been partly destroyed none can deny ; philanthropists assert that no 
 nation can arrogate to itself the right of purchasing the monuments 
 of the Grecians from their enslavers, the Turks ; travellers complain 
 that they are deprived of seeing the wondrous works of Phidias in 
 his own country ; the Athenians pretend that the removal of those 
 monuments has deprived their town of its greatest attractions ; — all 
 may in some measure be in the right, and to the arguments of all it 
 would, perhaps, be difficult to reply in a satisfactory manner : be- 
 fore I quitted Athens, I, however, saw enough to convince me that 
 it is proper that the magnificent works of the Greek sculptors should; 
 
110 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 be placed under the safe-guard of a nation fond of art, rather than 
 be left exposed to the senseless fury of the Turks, the depredations 
 of private collectors, and the insults of ignorant travellers. Hardly 
 do any persons quit the Acropolis without clipping from its monu- 
 ments some relic to carry back to their country : this rage for de- 
 stroying has been carried so far that the elegant Ionic capitals, which 
 I before mentioned, have nearly disappeared, and not one of the 
 Caryatides now stands entire. The last time I visited the citadel, 
 when taking a farewell view of the Pandroseon and the Hall of 
 Erectheus, I was much displeased at seeing an English traveller, an 
 officer of the navy (for such his uniform bespoke him to be) stand- 
 ing upon the base of one of the Caryatides, clinging with his left 
 arm round the column, while his right hand, provided with a hard 
 and heavy pebble, was endeavouring to knock off the only remaining 
 nose of those six beautifully sculptured statues. I exerted my elo- 
 quence in vain to preserve this monument of art. 
 
 The garrison of the citadel consists of a few soldiers, who have 
 houses for themselves and their families among the ruins. The situ- 
 ation is so airy that they prefer spending their time in the lower 
 town, where they may constantly be seen in the coffee-houses, 
 smoking and playing at the game called manicala. They are distin- 
 guished from the other Turks by having their girdles filled with 
 arms, a privilege which, at Athens, is granted to the janissaries of 
 the consuls and the soldiers of the garrison only. Near the Propyléa 
 are seen several guns without carriages, and here and there, among 
 the ruins, one sees a heap of bullets ; the guns are so much neg- 
 lected that the Turks would find much difficulty in using them for 
 any other purpose than to announce the beiram, the grand feast of 
 Islamism. The Acropolis, however well adapted for defence in an- 
 cient times, could not now resist the attack of European engineers : 
 the Musaeum Hill and Mount Lycabettus command the fort in such 
 a manner, that one is surprised the bombs of the Venetians left, in 
 the Parthenon, one stone standing on the other. 
 
310DERN ATHENIANS. 
 
 FEATURES SHAVING — DRESS — FEMALES — SUPERSTITION CONVERSATION — EDUCATION 
 
 — SOCIETY OF THE (DIAOMOYEfiN ALBANIANS THEIR DRESS — THEIR MANNERS. 
 
 RAMBLING through the streets of Athens, one seeks in vain, 
 in the faces of the Greeks, those majestic features which cha- 
 racterise the sculptures of the ancients ; jet black and glossy hair ; 
 sharp, diminutive eyes, shaded by thick brows, meeting in the 
 middle of a high forehead ; hooked nose ; thick lips ; dirty stunted 
 teeth ; narrow chin ; a skin tawny and coarse ; — such is the general 
 portrait of a modern Athenian. All shave their heads, leaving only a 
 small tuft on the crown, which is covered by a scull-cap of red cloth, 
 ornamented Avith a blue tassel. None but the priests wear beards : 
 others leave no more than a pair of black furry mustachios on the 
 upper lip. 
 
 As no man can shave his own head, you may readily conceive 
 that the employment of a barber is one of the most necessary : it is 
 generally exercised by a Mohammedan. The hard white soap is 
 dipped in cold water, rubbed upon the skin, and worked with the hand 
 to a lather ; the razor is then sharpened upon a broad leather strap, 
 and the hair is taken off with incredible lightness and rapidity : several 
 razors of different qualities are used, till the most delicate hand, 
 passing on the chin and head, feels no resistance. I am particular 
 in describing this operation, the importance of which will be duly 
 appreciated by all who have experienced the torture of shaving 
 under the heavy hand and unset razor of an English country 
 barber. 
 
 The dress of the lower class is simple and adapted to work ; a 
 coarse linen shirt without sleeves, reaching from the neck to the 
 feet; a pair of blue loose cotton drawers, gathered in at the knees, 
 
112 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 and kept up by a red girdle, bound many times round the body ; a 
 pair of papouches ; a woollen jacket, the seams of which are some- 
 times ornamented with red embroidery and silver coins ; a small red 
 scull-cap, and a narrow blue turban of coarse cotton, constitute 
 their whole wardrobe. Those whose business compels them to be 
 exposed often to the inclemency of the weather, are always provided 
 with a very coarse woollen cappotto, or great coat, the hood of 
 which shelters the head from the rain and frost. The legs, being 
 constantly exposed from the knees to the ancles, bear a brown 
 shining hue, different from the other parts of the body. 
 
 The Greeks of the middle class dress nearly in the same man- 
 ner : they cover their legs with a pair of white cotton stockings ; 
 their shoes are of French or Italian manufacture ; a caftan or long 
 silk cloak, ornamented with fur, replaces the jacket of the more 
 laborious. Their head-dress is generally an English or French hat, 
 or a fur cap : those who wear turbans purchase the privilege of hav- 
 ing them large and fine like those of the Turks ; the muslin, in that 
 case, is chequered with gold thread, the pure white being forbidden 
 to the raya, or infidel. 
 
 The women, travellers have seldom an opportunity of seeing but 
 in the streets : when at home, the Greek girl is secluded in the 
 gynotheka, and rarely appears before company : so far as a person 
 who has remained six weeks only in a town can judge, the Athenian 
 ladies are, in person, fair, handsome, well shaped; in disposition, 
 amiable and diffident ; but uneducated and superstitious. When in 
 the streets they generally muffle their heads and faces in a snow- 
 white shawl ; their feet are covered with light yellow buskins ; their 
 delicate frame is wrapped in a pelisse of green silk, and on their 
 shoulders hangs a square piece of the same material, bordered with 
 riband. They hurry straight forward, looking neither to the right 
 nor to the left, and pass like shadows, not noticed and not noticing. 
 In her house the Greek lady throws off her shawl ; her long auburn 
 tresses, adorned with gold coins, hang luxuriantly on her shoulders ; 
 she shows her dark eyes, adorned with long lashes and beautifully 
 
MODERN ATHENIANS. 113 
 
 arched brows ; a constant smile sitting on her ruby lips, discovers a 
 row of ivory teeth ; her naked feet, whose colour rivals that of ala- 
 baster, press the Turkey carpet ; the joints and nails of her feet and 
 hands are tinged with red; she is majestic in her deportment, 
 graceful in her gesture, and recals to the memory Ariosto's descrip- 
 tion of Alcina : — 
 
 Di persona era tanto ben formata, 
 Quanto me' finger san pittori industri; 
 Con bionda chioma, lunga ed annodata ; 
 Oro non è che più risplenda e lustri. 
 Spargeasi per la guancia delicata 
 Misto color di rose, e di ligustri. 
 Di terso avorio era la fronte lieta, 
 Che lo spazio finia con giusta meta. 
 
 Sotto duo negri, e sottilissimi archi 
 Son duo negri occhi, anzi duo chiari soli, 
 . Pietosi a riguardare, a mover parchi, 
 Intorno a cui, par ch'Amor scherzi e voli, 
 E ch'indi tutta la faretra scarchi, 
 E che visibilmente i cori involi ; 
 Quindi il naso per mezzo il viso scende, 
 Che non trova l'invidia, ove l'emende. 
 
 Sotto quel sta, quasi fra due vallette 
 La bocca sparsa di natio cinabro ; 
 Quivi due filze son di perle elette, 
 Che chiude, ed apre un bello e dolce labro, 
 Quindi escon le cortesi parolette, 
 Da render molle ogni cor rozzo e scabro ; 
 Quivi si forma quel soave riso, 
 Ch'apre a sua posta in terra il paradiso. 
 
 Bianca neve è il bel collo, e il petto latte ; 
 Il collo è tondo, il petto è colmo, e largo : 
 Due pome acerbe, e pur d'avorio fatte, 
 Vengono, e van, come onda al primo margo, 
 Quando piacevol aura il mar combatte. 
 Non potria l'altre parti veder Argo : 
 Ben si può giudicar, che corrisponde 
 A quel ch'appar di fuor, quel che s'asconde. 
 
 With foreigners, ignorant of the language and the manners of 
 
 Q 
 
1 14 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 the Greeks, and unacquainted with the occurrences of the city, but 
 few topics of conversation can exist : the time of a traveller's visit is 
 generally occupied in making different inquiries concerning the 
 country. In their answers to our questions we found them generally 
 communicative, though not always accurate. The language is har- 
 monious, and sounds sweetly from the lips of a lady : travellers are 
 generally addressed, evyevix /xoù, or «uSevni pov; the former of these 
 terms signifies, your excellency ; the latter is derived from the Turk- 
 ish title, Affendi [gjojf], given to those who can write. When one 
 of the company sneezes, all present greet him with the words Waa« 
 stvi, may you live many years. At the time we were at Athens, the 
 subject which engrossed the conversation at all the coteries was the 
 conduct of the archbishop : this individual, who, like all other Greek 
 prelates, had purchased his mitre from the patriarch, endeavoured, 
 it seems, to reimburse his expenses by extorting different contribu- 
 tions from his diocesans ; he at last forbade the burying of any 
 corse, unless a certain sum were paid into the hands of his secretary ; 
 this was more than the turbulent Athenians could bear; a mob, 
 threatening destruction to the object of their anger, surrounded the 
 palace of the archbishop, and forced the avaricious and enraged 
 ecclesiastic to fly to Zea; he had thence proceeded to Constan- 
 tinople, where he had an interview with the patriarch and Kislar- 
 Agà ; he was now returned to Zea, and it was expected that matters 
 would soon be arranged. 
 
 The modern Athenians are as superstitious as the ancient : 
 Athene was never more devoutly addressed than is now the Panagia, 
 or Virgin ; the bearded priests are often seen offering vip their 
 prayers before the image of some saint, surrounded by men and 
 women, who bring their oblations of tapers to the altar, and stand 
 with down-cast eyes, listening to the prayers and making the sign 
 of the cross : accounts of fancied miracles are daily invented by the 
 idle and simple; they spread with rapidity, and soon obtain the 
 stamp of authenticity ; the Greeks speak of them with wonder and 
 veneration ; the more haughty, but not less credulous Turk, men- 
 tions them with respect. The sign of the cross is the distinctive 
 
MODERN ATHENIANS. 115 
 
 mark of Christians in Turkey ; it is used at every moment, and the 
 manner of making it holds the place of honour in their AIAAEKAAIA 
 XPIETIANIKH, or Christian Catechism ; the first chapter runs thus : — 
 
 AIAA2KAA0S. 
 
 tloTov elvcci to' ffYj^iSi tov Xoi$iicvov ; 
 
 MA0HTH2. 
 Elvcci tò fl-vjjxaJ; tov xyiov 'Ztuvoov, to òkoìov yiverai, fixvwvTtcg to %tot tig to ucC^xai, 
 nei tig tò qvyàog, vitti elg e vet xaKo pioog, XéyuvTctg. Eig to ovo/x« tov UxToòg, xxì tov 
 Thv, v.où tov 'Ay tov Tlvtv^xTog. A/x^v. 
 
 AIAASKAAOE. 
 òictTi yivtrxi eìg tovtov tov rpóieov ; 
 
 MA0HTHE. 
 àiccTÌ $et'%v£i Zvta ptyxhx \Lvq\\oiu i to evo. tvjs Ayiag Toixlog, xxi to xaXo tvj? Hceqxu- 
 atug tov nvpiov v\[luv 'lyo-ov Xct<;ov, 6 òiroTog xtt'ouvt Zia Xóyov pug tig tov Y.Tuvt>òv. 
 
 This ceremony is of greater importance than the protestant reader 
 would be willing to believe ; great disputes have arisen on the sub- 
 ject, some pretending that it ought to be made with three fingers, 
 others that it should be performed with two only.* 
 
 • I extract the following curious passage from the catechism alluded to :— 
 
 IlaXaià rwc 'Ayitov 'AttotóXwj*, Kaì rutv 'Ayiojv Uartpiov UapdSoffic, Trtpi tov rrutg iravri 'QpSoSoty Xpt^iavip 
 7Tpoo~r)Ktt, tv Tip ff<ppayi£tiv to atftitiov tov 'Ayiov Travpov Èrrt rip Trpoaunrtp àvrov, ivovv Kaì avvàirriiv rovg 
 SaKrvXovg Tijg x tL P°G àvTOVj Kaì -rroiovg' Kaì mòg ìktv-ttovv Itp' ìavrov tqv 2ravpóv. 
 TlpùtTov jitv TrpocìiKti Ttp 'Op$oS6$oj XpiTiavip tvwoai rtjg StZiàg àvrov x £, l°^C T «C irpuiTOvg rptig SaKrvXovg, 
 \àpiv tvttov TÌ)g 'Ayiag TpiàSog, tov fiéyav SaKrvXoi', Kaì rovg Xonrovg Svu, rovg òvrag ttXìjoìov atirS, Si wv 
 iraptpijiaivofttv Kaì QavtpSfitv ri)g avrrjg 'Ayiag TptàSog ttiv ti iaórr\ra Kaì tì)v 'iviaoiv, òfiS ti Kaì tò àovyxvrov, 
 Kaì àavpniKrov, Kaì Sia re piv, rsg rùv ' Apv-tviuìv A'iptriKèg tò àviaov rrtpì rijg 'Ayiag TpiàSog tppovvvrag* Kaì 
 Tèrre xó-P tv Ka * Tuv tvttov Toìì SraUjOe tiri Ttp TTpoffùtruì àvrùv Sia Trjg tvwatuìg Tè Trpiòrov fiera tov rtrdprov Kaì 
 irtfiTTTOV SaKTÒXov cxr]fiaTÌCovrag y 'iva tvoti^ivai Sia Trjg àvto~órr)rog àvTutv rwv SaKrvXwv tò àvioov rùv luto*' 
 OtiiDV TlpoffwiriiìVf wg KaKofpovHVTag àTTOKpuofitv Kaì àTrofiàXXoptv, Kaì fitr' avrwv ùg 'Op9óSa%oi ov ovfttpwì'SfxtVy 
 àXX aTrixofiiv fiaKpàv aitò TOiavTijg àvrùv Kaì tùv àvro~ig èiropkvuiv if/vxoXtSpii KaKoàoZiag. Kaì T-qv ' AptiaviKj)v 
 airuiXttav, tì)v dvootfiij rijg QtÓTijTOg diaiptaiv QtvyovTtg, tò 'Opooiiatov Ttig àvriig 'Ayiag TptàSog TriTtvofitv Kaì 
 òfioXoyHftev, Aia òk tov à<rvp:pÌKTOv Kaì àavyxvTov, Tr)v Statpopàv tùiv Qeiutv Hpoo-unraiv àvaKijpvTTOVTtg, tò tov 
 2a/3£XXiou aìptTiKÒv Sóyfia àiropp'nrTOixtv. Ov yàp Xkyofitv, ui]Sk avyx^optv Kaì rag Tpng SaKTvXovg tig 'èva SàK~ 
 tvXov, àXX oitap.tv sKaTov civtuìv SiaKpivtiv, Kaì Kara Taiiv òvop,à'£tiv Xiyot Sì) tòv irpuiTov SaKTvXov, Kaì tòv 
 tilVTfpov, Kaì tòv fiiffov. Kaì tiSiuiv dvTovg irpuirov /lèv ìttì tò fitrioirov tipuv, ovTivag lipà-rrTiTai tò dvtàTtpov 
 Ktpag tov Sraupou. devrepov Se ìttì ttjv KoiXiav i/juùii', i)g dtyiKvetTai tò Kar&Ttpov Kepag tov Sravpof», TpWov tig 
 tòv StZiòv ai/joj', Kaì Ttraprov tig tòv dpi^tpòv, Tovg or]ptwvvTag <rvvextiv y Kaì avvàirTtiv Tip piat^ rei Sitrùra 
 iripaTa tòv rifiiov Sraupóv. 'E$' ov Kaì ò Si ìjfiàg iavpu$tìg 'lijoovg Xpvròg, Tag x^P a S àvrov tZa-rrXùaag y 
 uiravTa rà Kara rà irtpara ri}g Yijg SuOKopTri&néva *E3v/; tig tv avviiyayt. Kaì o'vtui Sia tov tvttov tovtov k«ì 
 trxrinaTiffpov twv TrpiiiTiov rpiùiv laiov SaKrvXwv, ùg Trpoitynixtv, dXijSwg Tip.àrai Kaì So^à'CtTai Trap' t'ipivv ò avtK- 
 iiiiyrìTog rìj Swapu rifiioc Yravpóg. 
 
 EiVì St Tivig ol dvriwpàrrovTtg rà tvavria rairy ry dpxaiif Trjg 'Ayiag 'EiwXijffi'af TrapaSóau, o'i rivtg a Kara 
 
 Q2 
 
116 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 The well-educated among the Athenians appear to have indeed 
 a general, but a very superficial knowledge : in literature they are 
 (as a school -master is said to have described the scholars of a rival 
 pedagogue) aliquid in omnibus, nihil in toto ; vanity, however, 
 makes up the deficiency of knowledge : the Athenians and the 
 Greeks in general treat with the greatest contempt those who have 
 learnt Hellenic in the schools of England, France, or Italy. 
 
 A public school is established at Athens, to which is attached a 
 library ; this institution is supported by the subscriptions of those 
 who visit the town ; the names of the subscribers are written in a 
 book, with or without the word ETEPrHTHS, in large capitals, ac- 
 cording to the amount of the gift : a copper ring, with an image of 
 the Athenian owl, is placed upon the finger ; and a paper, adorned 
 with signatures and seals, called a diploma, is given to the traveller, 
 who then remains a member of the Athenian society of 4>lAOMOT2QN : 
 the name of the Princess of Wales graces the list of members. 
 
 The peasants seen in the market of Athens are nearly all 
 Albanians, a people totally distinct from the Greeks ; their language 
 seems a dialect of the Sclavonic : their food is of the coarsest kind ; 
 their occupations are those of pastors or husbandmen. 
 
 The dress of the Albanian peasant is coarse and dirty ; a canvas 
 shirt — drawers and spatterdashes of the same materials — sandals of 
 untanned skin — a sort of coat without sleeves, of the coarsest white 
 
 Ttjv TrpoStaTtraypsvjjv i)uàv iKTviriaoiv tòv Sravpbv GyitiialZ.ovOiVj oXXà rbv utyav taKrvXov tvovfft ptrà ro» 
 TtrapTH Kai irtuTrrov, dig ot 'Appivioi, wtpiicXiiovTig tv àvTÓig rò Mvrijptov rijs 'Ayiag TptàìoQ' lià H TÙV Xoiir&v 
 ivw, Tjyovv tov titiKTiKov, elrt StvTtpov, Kai rS fitaov 9 tò Mi'?//pioi> tov Qtoìt Aóy« iraptfitpaivovai Kai KTjpvrrnatr t 
 iiritp'tpovrtg irpbg ravra Kai Tivag 'Maprvpiac tov MaKapiov WltXeriov 'Avrioxtiac, Beoò'topìjTov Ti Kai MaZipov rn~j 
 iv -tp 'AytujWr^y tov "A$tt>vog opti dffKtitravTog tv Ty 'lfpà tov BaTOTTttiiov Movy. Kai o'vrug avroi ptv Ty' Ay ut . 
 'EKKXrjrria c"ià ti)v KaKOippóvrjffiv dvTùtv dirtiSovvTeg, Kai dXXovg dirtipovg Tt Kai dpaStig ÒTriaut dv-utv ai™vTr$i' 
 Kai airoavptiv tiu>$aai. Kai cV) TOÙToig yrpbg "iaoiv ravTijg Trjg dyi'oiag airwr, c a--piXj)g Kai TtXtia, tKaTov fiov\<'- 
 p.ivov Trpoo?t$aa$ai dvTr)v Stparrtvoai Svvafiivrjy nvtvpLaTiKr) Stpairtia Trapà rr/g Ka^oXtKrjg 'TLKKXjjaiag è^ojcxj- 
 f'1^1 "C «roXAàj; 'Itpàj Kai 'EKKXtioiaTtKOg Bi/3X«j Ty 2Xa(iu>viKy AiaXtcry iv Ty 'Pwo-m'o; TviruiSzioag. '0<roi vhi- 
 ■xtiSovTai tj; dXi)$ti rijg 'Ayiag Ka$oXtKi)g Kai 'AjroroXurije 'EiocXijffiaf AiJaffsaXia, fui Ttjg avvaQijg rùv r : >i«>»' 
 KpwToiv Trig ItZiqg \fipbg oWruXwv rt/v 'Ayiav tptala, Kai Tr]v Trjg 'EvaapKÙaiug OtKovouiav, Kara t<\ Trapato- 
 StvTa rju'iv Trapà rSv dvry liapirrjaavTuv dXt]$ij àóypaTa, avvàpa ì'nravTig òfiofùvug piff i)ftùv tùv 'QpBoSóSur 
 iof,aZ,ÌTuoav, oTr.uf Trap' Utivr/g, Kai Ty Qtia dvTÌjg papiri, rà ti TrpóoKatpa, Kai TU aiùvia dya$à diuo-^ùaiv ìjti- 
 Tvxùv. AMHN. 
 
Kara -rny uA-nurtY tod e lujetOi £z = cfc> / J / /r/rc -, -voirtaye} 
 
 
 9K /P^VK^ *J ' - 
 
MODERN ATHENIANS. 117 
 
 woollen texture — a small skull cap, covering the crown of his close- 
 shorn head ; — these distinguish the rough Albanian from the more 
 delicate and more polished Athenian. 
 
 The Albanian women dress nearly as the men, but rather more 
 cleanly and more neatly : it is not unusual to see them wearing a 
 cap of small coins, strung together like the scales of a fish : few of 
 them understand a word of Greek, or any other language besides 
 the Albanian. 
 
 Many customs are said to be peculiar to these people ; particu- 
 larly their weddings and burials, neither of which had I an oppor- 
 tunity of seeing. 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 
 
 HORSES — MARATHON MOUNT ANCHESMUS — JEVISA — VILLAGE OP MARATHON — PLAIN— 
 
 VRANA — MARSH — TUMULI — CONVENT ON MOUNT PENTELICUS QUARRIES — HONEY— 
 
 PAUSANIAS* DESCRIPTION OF MARATHON — RETURN TO ATHENS — ELEUSIS — DAPHNE — 
 
 SACRED WAY — SALAMIS RUINS AT ELEUSIS — PRESENT STATE — MOUNT HYMETTUS — 
 
 LYCEUM ILISSUS STADIUM — KECHBASHI — ASCENT — VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF HY- 
 METTUS RETURN TO ATHENS. 
 
 A.FTER having examined the town of Athens, we made different 
 excursions to the celebrated places situate in its vicinity : the plague, 
 which was raging in Euboea with violence, hindered us from satisfy- 
 ing fully our curiosity; we did not, however, quit Attica without 
 having seen the plain of Marathon, Mount Hymettus, and Eleusis. 
 For this purpose we hired horses at the rate of six piasters a day : 
 they were not the fleetest of their race, and the saddles were accord- 
 ing to the fashion of the Turks, stuffed with wool, having a back 
 board, and broad stirrups, the corners of which serve for spurs. I 
 earnestly intreat those who wish to enjoy the pleasure of riding at 
 Athens, not to forget to take with them an English saddle. 
 
 Marathon still bears its ancient name, although in Greece even 
 the appellations of most of the spots famous in history have long 
 since been forgotten. 
 
 We quitted Athens by the north gate, and followed the road 
 leading to Chalcis, now Egripos ; Marathon being half way between 
 that place and Athens : we passed between the subterraneous chan- 
 nel which brings water to the town, and Anchesmus, a rocky hillock 
 at no great distance from the town ; a statue of Jupiter stood for- 
 merly on its top ; it is now replaced by a chapel dedicated to St. 
 George, who gives his name to the rock. 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 119 
 
 After three hours' ride across a forest of olive trees, many of 
 which seem to have stood centuries, we arrived at the village of 
 Jevisà, formerly called Kefyw'ut : this place is much frequented 
 by the Athenians in summer; many Turks have country houses 
 here. In the middle of the village, round the trunk of a fine-spread- 
 ing plane, is erected a brick platform, about three feet high, and 
 covered with rush mat : this simple building answers all the pur- 
 poses of a coffee-house. While we Avere here, refreshing ourselves 
 and resting our steeds, we were addressed in tolerable Italian by a 
 fine-looking Turkish janissary : his name was Housein : he had been 
 in the service of the Princess of Wales when she performed the 
 voyage to Jerusalem : he had travelled with her in Italy and Ger- 
 many : he was known in the suite under the name of Soleiman, and 
 was handsomely rewarded for his services : but poor Housein having 
 contracted among his Italian acquaintance too great an affection for 
 billiards, was stripped of his fortune, and returned to his country in 
 poverty. He now contents himself with offering his services to pri- 
 vate individuals who stand in need of a janissary, one of the appen- 
 dages generally taken with supreme care by the British traveller, 
 who often too readily listens to the accounts of the ignorant and 
 the prejudiced. 
 
 Housein was communicative, and gave us an amusing account 
 of his travels, the effect of which seemed to have inspired him with 
 the utmost contempt for his country and his comrades. 
 
 Soon after we quitted Jevisà we crossed the bed of the Cephisus, 
 now dried up by the summer heat, and over-hung with thick myrtles 
 and bay-trees. We continued our road by a rugged and steep path 
 leading to the top of part of the Parnes mountain -range ; thence 
 looking down was seen a vast plain, watered on the eastern side by 
 the sea, on the other side inclosed with mountains, and towards the 
 south divided by a long naked rock — this was the plain of Marathon. 
 
 The road descends along the western side, and crossing the 
 broad bed of a torrent, which flows over the plain from west to east, 
 leads to the hamlet of Marathon, a village of about sixty houses, in- 
 
120 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 habited by Albanians. At our arrival all was confusion, a man 
 having been murdered the day before by his neighbour, a circum- 
 stance here unfrequent. Revenge was the cause of the deed ; the 
 murderer, concealed behind a bush, awaited his enemy, took deli- 
 berate aim, and shot him through the heart; he then fled to the 
 mountains. As we passed the gory corse of the victim lay exposed 
 in one of the gardens. 
 
 Leaving Marathon, we followed the bed of the torrent, and, tra- 
 versing the ruins of a hamlet destroyed by its overflowing, we arrived 
 nearly in the centre of the plain, whence, turning to the right, we 
 reached the small village of Vranà, said to be the ancient Braurion ; 
 it is built at the foot of two rugged mountains, covered with cedar 
 trees. We passed the night at a wretched monastery, dedicated to 
 Agios Giorgios ; from their chapel the monks have a fine view of 
 the plain of Marathon, the sea, and Eubcea ; at the door is shewn 
 an antique basso-relievo, which, we were told, the holy fathers had 
 refused to sell for a hundred piasters. 
 
 Early on the following morning we quitted Vranà, and, riding 
 towards the north-east, came to the marsh so celebrated by the 
 slaughter of the Persians : in the middle rises an island, covered 
 with the huts of a few miserable Albanians. We found here several 
 columns of a greenish-coloured marble, some remains of statues, 
 and other marks of the former existence of temples, or other build- 
 ings, in this spot. At some distance from this place are seen the 
 tumuli mentioned by Pausanias ; one of them was opened by order 
 of the Princess of Wales ; a few bones were the only result of the 
 excavation. We had not time to go to the tumuli, or to examine 
 more nicely the plain, for we had promised to be at Athens in the 
 evening, and our promise we could not break ; we, therefore, re- 
 turned homewards, taking the road over mount Pentelicus, now 
 called Mendeli (Mévtìa/). 
 
 The path is rugged and steep; the rain fell fast, so that our 
 journey was not the most agreeable. The mountain is covered with 
 myrtle, cypress, and cedar; pines also are found here, producing 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 121 
 
 abundance of turpentine ; in the interior of the fruit are kernels, 
 which fall out when the apple is exposed to the heat of the fire, and 
 are eaten by the inhabitants. On the top of Mount Pentelicus are 
 seen the ruins of an ancient monastery, from which an easy road 
 among olive-grounds leads to the famous convent of Mendeli ; one 
 of the richest in Greece. When we entered the building several 
 huge and ravenous mastiffs flew at our party ; had it not been for the 
 timely interference of the good monks, and the skilful use of some 
 large bludgeons, our legs would doubtless have fallen a sacrifice to 
 their noisy fury. 
 
 We took from the convent a lad, who guided us to the Pentelic 
 quarries, which are distant about three miles ; the ascent is most 
 fatiguing. The traveller is repaid for his toilsome journey by a view 
 of the whole ridge of white marble which composes the rock, and 
 the immense quarries which supplied Athens with materials for her 
 noble edifices. At the entrance is a small chapel, and high over the 
 arch, inaccessible to man, is a hut, of apparently modern structure, 
 once, perhaps, inhabited by some ascetic ; blocks are seen on the 
 road-side, and all along the ascent marks, caused by the friction 
 of the heavy masses transported to Athens, are still plainly visible. 
 Of the interior of the quarry we saw little ; to have examined the 
 whole, it would have been necessary to be provided with a light ; but 
 the constant fall of rain had so thoroughly soaked the tinder of our 
 guide, that we found it impossible to make it catch fire ; we, there- 
 fore, returned to the convent. 
 
 The fathers had prepared for us a dish of good boiled rice, from 
 which, sweetened with honey, we made an excellent, and certainly 
 a most wholsesome meal. A great quantity of honey is made yearly 
 in the convent of Mendeli; it is much yellower than that we see 
 in France and England, and has an aromatic taste, by no means 
 agreeable : the same observation applies to that of Mount Hymet- 
 tus ; the white is said to be the produce of young bees. 
 
 Athens is still celebrated for the honey produced in its territory : 
 Atena Bali; Sham Shekem, "Athenian honey and Syrian sugar" 
 
 R 
 
122 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 are the favourite delicacies of the Osmanlis. As honey is much 
 used by the Turks, both in their cookery and in their beverage, 
 apiaries are frequently seen in Greece ; they are all conducted on 
 the same plan, which I am told differs very widely from that adopted 
 in England. We made many inquiries of the good monks of 
 Mendeli concerning their mode of treating these industrious insects. 
 I copy from my journal the following description, which was given 
 me by one of the fathers ; the great possibility of my having com- 
 mitted errors by ignorance both of the matter and the language in 
 which it was explained, will not allow me to vouch for its accuracy. 
 
 The hives are placed on the southern declivity of a hill, in 
 apiaries of one or two hundred hives, surrounded by a wall low 
 enough to admit the free ingress of air, but, at the same time, suf- 
 ficiently high to defend them from the beasts of the field. The hive 
 is made of rushes, and resembles exactly, in shape and size, an 
 English hamper ; it is plastered with a mixture of dung and ashes, 
 and is placed upon its bottom on a low stool ; across the top are put 
 twelve or fourteen twigs, to which the bees fasten their honeycombs ; 
 a conical roof of reed-straAV is placed over the whole. When they 
 wish to have any honey the bees are driven out by smoke, inserted 
 under the roof, which is then taken off, and as many sticks, with the 
 combs attached to them, as are wanted, are taken out ; the roof is 
 then replaced, and the bees are suffered to return. By dividing 
 them early in the season, that is, by placing some of the combs in a 
 new hive, the bees are hindered from swarming. 
 
 The fumigation is performed by a person whose hands are de- 
 fended by a thick pair of gloves, and whose face is covered with a 
 wire mask, similar to those worn by fencers ; a pot, with a sort of 
 round chimney and a handle, is filled with burning cow-dung, the 
 smoke of which is dispersed in the hive. This operation is performed 
 at mid-day. 
 
 On our return to Athens we passed through a village called 
 Caloodi : we entered the gates at about nine in the evening, drip- 
 ping with rain and exhausted with fatigue. 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 123 
 
 Pausanias' Description of Marathon.— 1 ' Marathon ìs situate 
 
 half-way between Athens and Carystus, in Euboea the 
 
 Athenians were buried on the field of battle ; stones are seen there, 
 containing the names of the slain, divided according to their tribes. 
 There is also another tomb, that of the Plateans, and that of the 
 slaves killed in the battle, because then, for the first time, the slaves 
 fought. The monument of Miltiades, son of Cimon, is separate 
 
 from the rest, having died some time after the battle In this 
 
 plain is heard, by night, the noise of horses neighing, and of men 
 fighting. To go there for the purpose of hearing it never succeeded 
 to any one ; he who, ignorant of the circumstance, hears it, has 
 
 nothing to fear from the spirits Upon the field of 
 
 battle was also erected a trophy of white marble. As to the Per- 
 sians, the Athenians assert that they buried them ; to cover with earth 
 a human corse, being in every case a pious duty. I could not, how- 
 ever, find the grave, for I saw neither tumulus nor any other marks 
 of its existence. I imagine, however,. that they threw them confusedly 
 into some hole." 
 
 '* In Marathon there is a fountain called Macaria There 
 
 is also a muddy marsh, in which the Persians were entangled, and 
 there they say was made the greatest slaughter of them. Beyond 
 the marsh are the mangers of the horses of Artaphernes, of white 
 
 marble, and on the rock are still seen the marks of his tent 
 
 Not far from the plain is the mountain of Pan, and a cavern 
 worth seeing. The entrance is narrow; but, advancing, one sees 
 rooms, baths, and what is called Pan's flock, the stones there much 
 resembling goats." 
 
 Eleusis. — The site of this celebrated city of Attica is now occu- 
 pied by a small miserable village called JLepsinà : it is about four 
 hours' gentle ride from Athens. You quit the town by the north- 
 western gate, and take the road on the left hand ; you pass by a 
 large country house, surrounded with gardens, and which belongs 
 to the Vaivode ; you then ascend a hill called Daphne, from the 
 
 R2 
 
124 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 quantity of bay which covers its brow ; after crossing this hill, the 
 road passes through a long defile, upon the sides of which, deep cut 
 in the rock, are seen the marks of chariot-wheels — perhaps of those 
 used in the sacred procession to the Temple of Ceres. At the end 
 of this defile you are presented with a beautiful view of the Saronic 
 gulf, now called the gulf of Egina, or, more corruptly, Engia ; the 
 coast curves beautifully round the Isthmus and the Peloponnesus, 
 and is on all sides bounded by a range of variously-formed moun- 
 tains; a little smoke, issuing from some cottages on the distant 
 shore, indicates the situation of Eleusis. 
 
 At the foot of the Daphne mountain is a large convent, with 
 many apiaries ; before it is a well, at which we refreshed our horses. 
 This convent is very old, and its church was formerly one of the 
 finest in Greece ; the ceiling was adorned with different figures in 
 Mosaic, the yellow pieces of which were, by the ignorant Greeks, 
 regarded as gold; the error of the vulgar caused the ruin of the 
 church ; a band of pirates attacked the convent, and, thinking to 
 obtain possession of a treasure, destroyed the roof. 
 
 A more delightful journey I never made than from this convent 
 to Eleusis ; indescribably grand is the sudden and unexpected view 
 of the gulf, the Isthmus, Salamis, and the various islands, the ruins 
 scattered on all sides, the jutting headland upon which Xerxes' 
 throne probably stood during the naval engagement ; — all these ob- 
 jects the eye comprehends in one glance. We met a numerous 
 drove of mules and horses coming from Livadia ; each animal car- 
 ried two skins, closely tied and filled with red wine — the liquor 
 oozing out and mixing with the exterior crust of dirt, gave the skins 
 a most disgusting flabby appearance. Our servants stopped the 
 caravan, and, unslinging from their shoulders the spherical little 
 casks with which they were usually provided, filled them with Livadian 
 wine, the excellence of which is much vaunted in Attica. 
 
 The remains of Eleusis are so scattered that one can hardly de- 
 termine even the site of the celebrated Temple of Ceres : we were 
 shewn several blocks, ornamented with basso-relievo representations 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 125 
 
 of torches placed cross-ways : many coins were offered by the 
 peasants for sale. 
 
 At no great distance from Lepsinà, a pier, composed of huge 
 blocks, stretches out into the sea, and serves as a landing-place for 
 the crews of the fishing tartans which belong to the village : this was 
 probably the port of Eleusis. 
 
 Mount Hymettus. — The journey to the foot of the mountain 
 is performed on horseback : the summit itself can be attained only 
 on foot. 
 
 We quitted Athens by the modern gate, near that of Adrian : 
 on our way we crossed the supposed site of the Lyceum ; we saw 
 what is regarded as the ruins of the Temple of the Ilassides Muses ; 
 we then crossed the dry bed of the llyssus, and came to the site of 
 the Stadium, a semicircular excavation in the opposite declivity; 
 some ruined piers of a bridge, which once led to this place, are still 
 seen. 
 
 Pausanias gives of the Stadium the following striking descrip- 
 tion: — "This building is entirely of white marble, and some idea 
 may be formed of its size, when one considers, that it commences in 
 the shape of a half moon on the hill beyond the llyssus, and thence, 
 in a straight line, extend two walls down to the river's bank. Herod, 
 the Athenian, erected it, and in this work he almost exhausted his 
 marble quarry on Mount Pentelicus." 
 
 No marble now remains on this spot ; all of it has been used for 
 various purposes by the Turks ; the hollow in the hill sufficiently 
 indicates the situation of the building. We were shewn a passage 
 about twenty yards long, hewn through the rock on one side ; this 
 was, perhaps, the private entrance to the Stadium : witches now 
 assemble here nightly, and cabal against the welfare and peace of 
 poor Athens ; for which reason the Greek matron exposes some- 
 times a few baubles, as a bribe to defend her family from the ma- 
 lignant machinations of those cursed beings. 
 
 The road to Hymettus runs along the border of the llyssus, the 
 
126 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 deep bed of which proves it to have been, at a distant period, some* 
 thing more than a mountain -torrent : at the foot of the mountain 
 stands a convent, which had been abandoned some time before our 
 arrival ; it is called by the Greeks Kiriani, by the Turks Ketchbdshi, 
 goat's head, from a neighbouring fountain, upon which an image of 
 that shape is placed. 
 
 At the convent of Ketchbàshi we breakfasted, the fountain fur- 
 nishing us with water for coffee, which was made by our servant : 
 here also we left our horses, the remaining part of the ascent being, 
 as our lazy guides pretended, much too steep. 
 
 Climbing to the top of the mountain occupied us about an hour : 
 on the very summit are placed two or three heaps of stones, indi- 
 cating the spots whence Fauvel made observations for the purpose 
 of constructing a correct map. A beautiful view is obtained of the 
 country ; before you is the dark blue expanse of the Saronic gulf, 
 and the iEgean sea, broken by innumerable islands ; in the distance 
 the grey mountains of Peloponnesus ; on the right are seen Athens 
 and the neighbouring country ; the prospect is bounded by the 
 mountains of the Isthmus ; on the left the island of Eubcea and the 
 sea ; behind rises the range of Pentelicus and Parnes. 
 
 Sir G. Wheeler took the bearings of the principal spots seen 
 from Hymettus, with (as far as I compared them) accuracy. I 
 extract that learned traveller's description from the French trans- 
 lation of his work : — 
 
 " 1. First I observed the point where Eubcea or the Negropont begins to appear 
 
 above Mount Parnes — North." 
 
 " 2. A mountain of Eubcea, now called Delphi — North East." 
 
 " 3. The most southern cape of Eubcea, called by the Greeks Carisio — East." 
 
 " 4. The island of Andros— East South East." 
 
 " 5. Maaonisi, formerly Helena — South South East." 
 
 " 6. The island S. Giorgio di Aboro, opposite Milo — South "West." 
 
 " 7. Cape Schillo, or Promontorium Schillaeum in the Morea, which forms the Saronic 
 
 gulf— South South West." 
 
 " 8. The highest point of Egina, now Eugia — West South We9t." 
 " 9. An island which I take to be Lavousa — South West." 
 
VICINITY OF ATHENS. 127 
 
 " 10. Corinth— North West." 
 
 "11. Palcevouni, or Mount Geranium — West North West — Macriplai (the passage 
 across the Isthmus) a little more to the North, and between them Megara. 
 
 " 12. Helicon, now called Zagara — North North West." 
 
 " 13. Cytheron, now called Elatea, beginning from North West to West, and ex- 
 tending in the direction of North West by North." 
 
 " 14. Parries Mons, now Chasha and Nozea, beginning North North West, extend- 
 ing in the direction of North East, its highest point is to the North ; the road to Chalcis, 
 now called Egripos — North East." 
 
 " IS. Mount Pentelicus is the highest range — North North East." 
 
 " 16. Porto Baphti, formerly Panormus Portus, upon the coast of Attica — East 
 South East." 
 
 " 1 7. Promontorium Sunium, now Capo Colonna — East South East." 
 
 " 18. The island of Patrocli, now called Guidronisa — South." 
 
 "19. Portus Phalaerus, Munichia, and the island of Salami s, now called Colouri — 
 West." 
 
 " 20. The Pirarus, called by the Turks, Porto Dracone, by the Franks, Porto Leone 
 —North West." 
 
 "21. Cape Amphialia (now Pilo), and the strait between Salamis and Attica — 
 West North West." 
 
 " 22. Eleusis, now Lepsinà — North North West." 
 
 " 23. The Forest of Olives upon the Cephisus begins West North West, and extends 
 in the direction of North North West." 
 
 " 24. The Citadel of Athens— West North West." 
 
 Mount Hymettus is called by the Franks, corruptly, Monte 
 Matto (mad mountain ;) I have been told that the modern Greeks 
 have translated into their own language the blunder of the Italians, 
 calling it Trello Vouni; it was, however, shewn to me from the 
 Acropolis under the name Telo Vouni, distant mountain. 
 
 After having enjoyed the beautiful view from the summit of 
 Hymettus, we returned to Athens. It Avas our intention to make 
 various other excursions, but circumstances, the detail of which 
 would not interest you, obliged us to hasten our departure. 
 
 : 
 
EPIDAURUS. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM ATHENS HARBOUR OF PIRjEUS — EMBARKATION SARONIC GULF 
 
 EGINA EPIDAURUS MILES LYGURIO— VINTAGE MODE OF MAKING WINE RUINS 
 
 — THEATRE DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCIENT PRECINCT SNAKES. 
 
 MONDAY, September 21st, we bade adieu to Athens and her 
 celebrated remains, having previously engaged, for thirty piasters, 
 a Greek caique to convey us to Pidavro (Epidaurus) a port of the 
 Morea, nearly opposite to Athens. Accompanied by Giorgio, our 
 servant, we proceeded along the wall to the Piraeus, treading this 
 classic land with a regret, which even the thought that the remain- 
 ing part of our journey would be directed homeward, was not 
 sufficient to dispel. 
 
 In the harbour was anchored a corvette, bound to Malta, 
 from Smyrna, waiting a fair wind : on the quay were several 
 English travellers, who were on the point of quitting Attica, and 
 the shore was covered with servants and sailors : the confusion of 
 tongues was ridiculous in the extreme — English endeavouring to 
 speak Greek, Greeks endeavouring to speak English, and both, 
 failing in their efforts, substituted gesticulation for language. All 
 the time I remained in Greece I never recollect hearing an oath 
 escape the lips of the meanest individual ; but here the horrid grating 
 produced by the volleys of English, French, and Italian oaths, 
 heard on all sides, compared with the simple and innocent conver- 
 sation of the natives, formed a striking and melancholy contrast. 
 
 We slept once more at the convent of Saint Spiridion, the egou- 
 menos or abbot of which gave us a letter of recommendation to the 
 egoumenos of another monastery in the Morea. At twelve o'clock 
 we departed; our sailors rowed us out of the harbour, and then 
 hoisted the sails; a favourable wind blew us from the shores of 
 
EPIDAURtTS. 129 
 
 Attica, and at sun-rise we found ourselves in the middle of the 
 Saronic gulf. The rays of the sun, darting on my eyes, awoke me 
 from my sleep. I eagerly looked around to see how far we had 
 arrived; the helmsman saw my anxiety — " Engia kai Pidauro," 
 (Egina and Epidaurus) said he, pointing to the prow ; then direct- 
 ing, with a significant nod, my attention to the right, he added, 
 (i Korto, Lepsina, kai Kalouri," (Corinth, Eleusis, and Salamis:) 
 behind us I saw still the Acropolis of Athens and the top of Hymet- 
 tus on the left; in the horizon, Ceos and Promontorium Sunium. 
 Cicero, who, many centuries back, had been on the same spot, 
 occurred to my memory ; then Athens was still celebrated for the 
 arts and literature — Salamis was peopled — Epidaurus and Eleusis 
 were yet towns ; — I shuddered at the thought of their present state ; 
 >. — will France and England ever be as Greece and Rome now are ? 
 
 We had intended to touch at Egina, but the wind was fair, and all 
 sailors know by experience the folly of not taking advantage of fine 
 weather ; we were, therefore, obliged to yield to the intreaties of the 
 captain : we passed the island, and made the best of our way to the 
 Peloponnesus. 
 
 The remains of a temple are still seen in the island of Egina, 
 and, by excavating its ruins, some artists discovered, not long since, 
 those statues which were afterwards sold by auction at Rome, and 
 purchased by the king of Bavaria for eight thousand pounds : many 
 remains of antiquity, found here, are also in the collection of the 
 French consul at Athens. The island is far from being fertile, and 
 its inhabitants are not numerous. Sir G. Wheeler mentions that it 
 abounds in partridges to such a degree, that the islanders, to pre- 
 serve their grain, are obliged yearly to destroy as many of the eggs 
 of these birds as they can find ; this is not now the case. 
 
 At ten o'clock in the morning we anchored on the rocky shore 
 of Pìdavro, a miserable hamlet, containing about thirty houses, 
 and not more than a hundred inhabitants. We breakfasted under 
 the shade of a spreading tree, surrounded by the natives, ever 
 anxious and curious, as in all parts of the Morea, to examine 
 
 S 
 
130 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 strangers. Epidaurus was once famous for its breed of horses — 
 domitrixque Epidaurus equorum — Georg, iii. 44 ; — now, so fallen is 
 it in that respect, we could not procure even one horse, but were 
 obliged to content ourselves with five donkeys, on which, after seeing 
 the ancient city walls, we proceeded to Lygurio, on our road to 
 Argos. 
 
 The ancient Epidaurus, of which the walls are almost the only 
 remains to be seen, was built upon a small peninsula, stretching out 
 towards Egina, commanded on the north-west side by a lofty ridge 
 of mountains, the highest of which is supposed to be Arachne. The 
 Isthmus is about a quarter of a mile broad. In the middle of the 
 brambles which now overgrow the peninsula, different shapeless 
 ruins are pointed out, to which, I think, antiquaries have not yet 
 even been able to assign a name. We were shewn the remains of a 
 statue of white marble, clothed in flowing robes, and reclining on a 
 couch; it has lost its arms, its head, and its feet; to determine, 
 therefore, whom it originally represented, would be a task worthy of 
 all antiquarian travellers; to them also you must look for a more 
 satisfactory account of the stones which strew this shore. 
 
 From Pidavro to Lygurio the road is good, and repeatedly pre- 
 sents fine prospects ; it runs nearly the whole way on the border of 
 a deep glen, at the bottom of which, in winter, rolls a violent tor- 
 rent, but as the summer had been much hotter than usual, it was, 
 when we passed, nearly dry, a small stream only rippling among its 
 pebbles. A rivulet, which throws itself into the torrent-bed, has 
 been industriously banked up, so as to produce two mill- falls, one 
 above the other : in their contrivances for economizing water, and 
 for drawing it from their wells, the Greeks shew much more inge- 
 nuity and industry than in many other things. 
 
 At Lygurio we found the inhabitants occupied in the vintage ; 
 the plain was covered with peasants gathering grapes, and in 
 each field a Turk was stationed as a foreman, for the vineyards 
 belonged to a rich Agà of Nauplia, who, not being able to at- 
 tend himself, had sent his most trusty servants to superintend 
 
EPIDATJRUS. 131 
 
 the making of the wine ; the use of which, and not the cultivation, 
 is forbidden by Mohammed. 
 
 To extract the juice from the grapes a hut had been erected, 
 having its floor made of plaster, and declining gradually towards a 
 spout, which led to a reservoir ; the grapes were thrown in by a hole 
 in the roof, and a peasant trod them with his naked feet. 
 
 In this manner tolerably good wine would perhaps be made, was 
 it not here, as in other parts of Greece, rendered most nauseous by 
 a mixture of plaster or lime, and of the turpentine extracted from 
 the apple of the pine-tree : the former being used to render the wine 
 more powerful, the latter to enable it to be preserved longer. The 
 wine is kept generally in casks, but to transport it from one place 
 to another, sheep-skins, with the hairy side inwards, are always used. 
 I need not remind you of the antiquity of this mode of carrying 
 wine : in mountainous countries, where no roads exist for carts and 
 waggons, and where hardly a path can be found for the sure-footed 
 mule, these light skins are found extremely useful. They still bear 
 their ancient name («™òj,) and are obtained by flaying the sheep or 
 goat without making any incision in the body. 
 
 The finest and ripest grapes were picked, and dried in an oven 
 for winter food ; and the unripe fruit, together with the dregs of the 
 wine when distilled, made a sort of smoky brandy, called rachy, a 
 favourite beverage of the poor. 
 
 Lygurio must be placed somewhere near Lessa, the fort which 
 served as the frontier of Argolis and Epidauria : this place has been 
 described as opposite to Mount Arachne. We thought that its re- 
 mains could be traced among some ruins which are passed on the 
 left, just before arriving at Lygurio. This last village contains 
 about a hundred houses, and is inhabited by Albanian and Greek 
 peasants : the Cogià-bashee, or head man of the village, gave us a 
 good lodging, and treated us with hospitality ; his name was Con- 
 statine Caloudi. In the morning he furnished us with a guide to 
 conduct us to the precinct or temple of iEsculapius, the ruins of 
 
 S2 
 
132 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 which are seen in the valley, beneath Lygurio, at the distance of 
 about two miles. 
 
 Pausanias, who travelled over Greece between the first and 
 second centuries of the Christian era, and has left us an inestimably 
 accurate description of the country, represents the sacred wood of 
 ZEsculapius as being surrounded by walls, within which no person 
 was allowed to die, and no woman to be delivered — it was not 
 proper that death should intrude into the very habitation of the God 
 of physic. Within this precinct were — 1st. An ivory and gold 
 statue of the God. 2dly. A round building of white marble, called 
 the Tholos. 3dly. Columns, on which were engraved the names of 
 those who had been cured by iEsculapius. 4thly. A superb theatre, 
 the work of Policletus. 5thly. The Chapel of Diana ; the Statue of 
 Epione ; the Temple of Venus ; that of Themis ; the Stadium ; and 
 a wonderful fountain. 
 
 To these buildings Antoninus added — the Bath of iEsculapius ; 
 the Temple of the Epidotae (Gods who presided over the growth of 
 children ;) and three other temples ; besides which, without the 
 precinct, he erected a building for those who were on the point Of 
 death, and for women in labour. 
 
 Beyond the sacred wood were the mountains Thyteus and Cynor- 
 tion ; on this latter was situated a temple, erected by Antoninus, in 
 honour of Apollo Maleatus. 
 
 The road from the temple to the town of Epidaurus was over the 
 mountain Corypheus, and the distance is said to have been forty 
 stadia, not more than four English miles. — So far for the ancient 
 state of the sacred precinct. I shall now proceed to describe its 
 present remains, and to shew the difference produced in this spot by 
 the lapse of seventeen centuries. 
 
 An hour before sun -rise we started from Lygurio for the temple, 
 still called to iero, and, crossing several vineyards in the valley, we 
 arrived there as soon as the sun had begun to gild the top of Mount 
 Cynortion. The vine still flourishes in Epidauria, and its culture is 
 
EPIDAURUS. 133 
 
 almost the only occupation of the thinly-scattered inhabitants. The 
 ancient Epidaurians were, if I recollect rightly, not remarkable for 
 their acuteness ; if so, the being who served us for guide fully in- 
 herited the stupidity of his ancestors : he was clothed in a flowing 
 shirt and loose pair of drawers, of the coarsest sackcloth — buskins 
 of hairy sheep-skin defended his legs from the thorns — a dirty white 
 cloth was wrapped round his head — misery and stupidity were de- 
 picted upon his sun-burnt face. With a staff in his hand he walked 
 before us, and stopping at the ruins of a Roman bath, he exclaimed, 
 tx Tscehxix, " these are the ruins." I was glad to find my notes from 
 Pausanias so far correct, but I wished to see the other remains of 
 the peribolus, or precinct. I pronounced to my guide the words 
 to Séarpov ; he nodded as though he understood my meaning, and, 
 leading us over immense heaps of stone, shewed us successively — 
 the pavement of a temple, perhaps that of the Tholos ; some broken 
 inscriptions ; some prostrate columns ; and many other shapeless re- 
 mains, at each of which I repeated tò theatron, knowing that to be 
 most interesting of the ruins ; but all was of no use, my guide knew 
 not even the meaning of a theatre, and had it not been for the lucky 
 thought of one of the party, who traced a ruined Greek theatre on 
 a piece of paper, we should have been forced to quit Iero without 
 seeing the work of Polycletus : but no sooner had our Epidaurian 
 seen the sketch, than he cried out, ha, rx %póvnt (the seats,) and 
 conducted us towards the ruin. — Greece, Greece, how art thou 
 fallen ! once the mistress of the histrionic art, covered with odeums, 
 stadiums, and theatres, all dedicated to the amusement of a nume- 
 rous and noble-minded people ; now inhabited by a scanty and 
 miserable race, who know not even the ancient use of the ruins 
 which still awe him who travels over thy uncultivated tracts. 
 
 The theatre consists of fifty-five steps, semicircularly arranged, 
 and for which an excavation has been made in the hill : the pro- 
 scenium is entirely lost ; opposite to it is the deep bed of a torrent, 
 beyond which is a chalybeate spring, the waters of which are drank 
 as a remedy against the ague : it bubbles up from the ground, and, 
 
134 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 in. summer, is freezingly cold; in winter, the inhabitants pretend 
 that it is warm ; they call it t« p«A/«, (so the name sounded to my 
 ear,) and ascribe to it wonderful properties. 
 
 The ruins serve as a retreat for a multitude of snakes ; but those 
 mentioned as having a yellowish skin are never now seen even by 
 the inhabitants : some remains are represented as existing on 
 Mounts Corypheus and Cynortion ; they are probably those of the 
 temples alluded to by Pausanias. 
 
 We returned to Lygurio, and having hired from one of the 
 Turks who were occupied in the vintage, six horses, at eight piasters 
 each, we departed for Argos, the distance of which was eight hour»' 
 journey. 
 
TYRINTHUS AND NAUPLIA. 
 
 JANISSARIES — THEIR PAY — ROAD FROM LYGURIO TO NAUPLIA — PALAMEDI STATE OF 
 
 NAUPLIA — THE CITADEL SITUATION OF THE TOWN TYRINTHUS — CYCLOPEAN MA- 
 SONRY GALLERIES — ROAD TO ARGOS — GIPSIES — THEIR LANGUAGE. 
 
 wV E had been advised by many travellers who had been the jour- 
 ney we were now performing, not to trust ourselves in the Pelopon- 
 nesus without a janissary. Mr. Fauvel, the French consul at Athens, 
 was, however, of a different opinion ; he had several times crossed 
 the peninsula alone, and he assured us that there, as in all other 
 parts of the world, the quiet traveller would be treated with civility 
 by the inhabitants ; we experienced the truth of his observation, 
 for, during a stay of several weeks in this country, the manners of 
 whose inhabitants certainly verge upon barbarism, we were never 
 robbed or insulted except in one instance, where our own party had 
 been the imprudent aggressors, and then the protection of one Turk 
 would have been of little avail. 
 
 A janissary is generally paid five piasters a day; his business is 
 to keep order in the small caravan, to procure horses at the different 
 towns, if the traveller choose to ride post, and, in the evenings, to 
 procure lodging and provisions : all these services can be performed 
 as well by a trusty servant as by a Turk. Much of the inhospitality 
 towards travellers conspicuous among the Grecian peasants must be 
 attributed to the extortions which the traveller's janissary too often 
 makes from these poor people. The whole of the money spent in 
 the tour passes through the hands of this person, to whom the tra- 
 veller has generally, by the recommendation of some consul or 
 friend, been taught to confide implicitly : I had, however, repeated 
 proofs that the honesty of the janissaries, particularly of those in the 
 Morea, is not so great as generally is thought ; they indeed receive 
 
136 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 more than enough generously to pay the expenses of their travellers, 
 but the peasant, whose roof has sheltered the party, and whose pro- 
 visions have been taken from the mouths of his children to gratify 
 the appetite of the strangers, rarely receives any thing but stripes 
 and abuse. Not even timidity can excuse this addition to the crush- 
 ing miseries of an injured nation. He whose fearful imagination 
 pictures to him a monster in every one of his fellow- creatures dif- 
 ferent from himself in dress and in manners, should confine his 
 travels to the land in which he was born, and not proclaim abroad a 
 folly and an ignorance which disgrace his country. 
 
 We always found our Athenian servant, Giorgio, sufficient ; he 
 cooked for us, waited upon us, and acted as interpreter, for which 
 he received five piasters daily, the same as would have been given to 
 an idle and useless Turk. 
 
 Going from Lygurio, the road to Argos and Nauplia, one 
 enters Argolis, a country, the face of which is mountainous, but 
 towards the sea fiat and fertile : the road we followed was undoubt- 
 edly the only one that ever existed between Epidaurus and Argos : 
 no ruins are found either on the right or the left, and no habitation is 
 seen until you come within view of the citadel of Nauplia, which, 
 standing on a lofty rock, seems, from the road, to emerge from a 
 forest of bushes and wild olive trees ; it was pointed out to me by 
 the Turk who accompanied our horses ; he called it " Palamedi ;" — 
 whether that has any reference to the Palamedes of the Trojan war 
 I know not : this latter was the son of Nauplius, king of Euboea, 
 and not of the famous mariner of Argos, to whom the foundation of 
 Nauplia has been attributed. 
 
 In the time of Pausanias, Nauplia was deserted ; it is now popu- 
 lous and large : eight minarets rise above the roofs of the houses ; 
 and several consuls have their residences in it. The citadel, to which 
 leads a steep covered way, said to be bomb-proof, is remarkably 
 strong; about two years since it was unsuccessfully blockaded by 
 a large body of Albanian malcontents, who wished to depose the 
 Pashà, or governor of the town. To enter the fort, however, is 
 
TIRYNTHUS AND NAUPLIA. 137 
 
 impossible, without an express firmàn from the sultan, and a letter 
 from the pashà of Tripolitzà, so jealous are the Turks of the in- 
 trusion of strangers in their fortified places. 
 
 Nauplia is now called Napoli di Romania, to distinguish it from 
 the city of Italy, which it resembles in name, and in beauty of 
 situation. Placed at the bottom of the Argolic gulf, it offers a 
 secure anchorage to shipping, and from the neighbouring shores the 
 spectator has a beautiful view of the gulf, of the iEgean sea, of the 
 mountains of Laconia and Arcadia, and of the fertile plain com- 
 manded by the Acropolis of Argos. The bay is, however, gradually 
 filling with sand ; depth of water sufficient for ships of heavy burden 
 is no longer found ; and the sea which formerly washed the walls of 
 Tirynthus has retired at least half a mile from its ruins ; so that to 
 endeavour to determine the spot whence the Argonauts sailed would 
 be ridiculous and absurd. 
 
 Between Nauplia and Argos, on the plain, washed by the waters 
 of the gulf, are still seen the remains of Tirynthus, now known by 
 the name of Palato Napli (Old Nauplia.) This town was the 
 favourite dwelling of Hercules ; it was erected one thousand three 
 hundred and seventy-nine years before Christ, and was destroyed 
 by the Argives, to render their own city more populous, four hun- 
 dred and sixty-six years before Christ. The ruins must have been 
 ever since nearly such as they now are, and the enormous size of the 
 blocks of stone which compose them will probably render them for 
 thousands of years the admiration of travellers. 
 
 The citadel offers one of the most curious specimens of ancient 
 fortification : the walls, composed of immense rocks piled one above 
 the other, are of amazing thickness, and the interstices are filled 
 with smaller stones, closely wedged in ; a species of masonry fre- 
 quently found in the Peloponnesus and in some parts of Italy ; it 
 was used when men sought strength, not elegance, in their build- 
 ings. These wonderful and gigantic walls were attributed, in after 
 times, to the Cyclops, " Whose name," says Barthélémi, "awakens 
 ideas of greatness, since it was given, by the first poets, sometimes 
 
 T 
 
138 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 to giants, and at others to the children of heaven and earth, who 
 forged the thunder-bolts of Jove." 
 
 On the hillock covered by the citadel is seen a curious gallery, 
 similar to which are others near the walls : they are supposed to 
 have served as a covered way for the garrison, or as a prison to con- 
 fine those whom war placed in the hands of the Tirynthians : this 
 gallery was about six feet broad, as many high, and ninety long ; 
 the roof is formed of stones horizontally placed, but hewn wedge 
 fashion, so as to meet at the top ; it serves now as a pen for the 
 sheep which feed in the neighbouring plain, and, from its masonry I 
 should certainly be tempted to regard it as of a date much later 
 than the walls. 
 
 Tirynthus is about six miles from Argos, whither we now pro- 
 ceeded through a well -cultivated country, covered with gardens, and 
 studded with country houses and small hamlets : the peasants were 
 gathering the cotton, abundance of which grows in this neighbour- 
 hood; and the numbers of women and children occupied in this 
 harvest, and scattered among the fields, added to the scene an air of 
 liveliness, which reminded me of those at which I have so often 
 assisted with delight in the hay-making season : the green expanse 
 on which the eye then rested was here wanting ; the fields, the 
 mountains, all appeared parched by the sun, and panting for rain. 
 
 As we entered Argos, we were not a little surprised to find, at 
 the gates of the town, an encampment of gipsies : their huts were 
 made of skins ; tribes of their children wandered on all sides in a 
 state of complete nudity. They gain their livelihood by smithing 
 and by fortune-telling, a service which several of them offered to 
 perform for us : we were told that the language spoken among 
 themselves by these vagabond hordes, although not Turkish, was 
 different both from the Albanian and the Greek. 
 
ARGOS. 
 
 SITUATION OP THE TOWN — POTTERIES — TILES SUNDAY FAIR COINS ANTIQUITIES — 
 
 INHABITANTS OF ARGOS — TURKISH HOSPITALITY — FOOD OF THE POOR CITADEL 
 
 VIEW FROM LARISSA — THEATRE — DESTRUCTION OF MONUMENTS. 
 
 ARGOS is situated in a healthy plain, within view of Nauplia, 
 Tirynthus, and the Argolicus Sinus : it is commanded by a high and 
 rugged rock, the top of which is crowned by a ruined Venetian fort, 
 while, on the sides, a curiously-placed Convent rears its head among 
 some trees, and, from the town, appears inaccessible. The streets 
 are wide and unpaved, but tolerably clean. The houses are built 
 of bricks made of mud and pebbles, hardened in the sun ; those of 
 the richer individuals are painted in very gay colours, which, con- 
 trasted with the sombre hue of the others, produces a very lively 
 effect. The town contains many shops ; a mosque, to which is 
 attached a large Turkish school ; many miserable Greek churches : 
 in the skirts of the city are several potteries and tile manufactories. 
 
 These tiles are made precisely in the same shape as those found 
 in the ruins of Pompeii, and are similar to what is called in England 
 the gutter tile : they are placed in rows on the roof, one within the 
 other, and the edges of those rows are covered with others arranged 
 in a similar manner, but inverted. As, under a Grecian sky, there 
 is little fear of those falls of snow which destroy the roofs in northern 
 countries, the declivity of the sides is never greater than is sufficient 
 to carry off the water ; the tiles are not, therefore, fastened on with 
 pegs, and the whole of a Greek town could in a few minutes be un- 
 covered by its inhabitants. 
 
 We spent a Sunday at Argos : this day is, through Greece, that 
 on which the great market is held. The town was crowded with 
 peasants, come to sell their articles, and to buy, in return, the ma- 
 
 T2 
 
140 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 nufactures of the citizens : heaps of shoes, bundles of cloth, fruits 
 of all kinds, were scattered in the streets. We found no small diffi- 
 culty to press through the crowd during the morning, but hardly had 
 the sun passed the meridian, when this momentary bustle ceased, 
 and Argos was restored to her former melancholy stillness. 
 
 Throughout the Morea vast numbers of ancient coins are offered 
 to the traveller, and he may sometimes purchase them very cheaply. 
 Collectors should, however, be on their guard — founderies of 
 ancient coins are established both at Argos and at Athens ; in the 
 former of these places the Jews, who practise this deception upon 
 strangers, have sometimes the impudence to offer them burning hot 
 from the furnace. 
 
 The eager desire of tourists to obtain some relics of antiquity is 
 so well known in Argos, that, when walking the streets, you are 
 repeatedly stopped by the natives to examine the articles they have 
 found in the vicinity. A kaloieros, or monk, drew from his breast, 
 with great care, what he conceived to be a precious antique ; it was 
 a Roman crucifix, broken from its cross. This recalls to my memory 
 a similar scene, which I witnessed at Athens. A young man shewed 
 me a French halfpenny, of Louis the fifteenth, imagining it to be a 
 valuable medal : one of my companions enquired, with pretended 
 eagerness, the price he asked for the coin ; the youth significantly 
 raised the fingers of his right hand, and pronounced the words 
 " isévri %qó<ra," (five piasters.) 
 
 The modern Argives are a fine race of men : their hale coun- 
 tenances bear the print of health ; in dress and in manners they are 
 very simple. The only ornaments worn by the females are a few 
 pieces of money, hung in their ears or round their necks. Both 
 Turks and Christians are more annoying to strangers than they are 
 in Attica ; this is, perhaps, on account of their not being so accus- 
 tomed to the sight of transalpine faces. I was every moment teazed 
 to shew the pistols and dagger which prudence prompted me to 
 wear in a country, all of whose inhabitants are more or less armed. 
 Every time we stopped we were surrounded by crowds of staring 
 
ARGOS. 141 
 
 blockheads, the more impertinent of whom pursued us with cries of 
 "Franco di Dio," "Franco Tedesco," the meaning of which I 
 could never divine. But even here the Turk allows not the laws of 
 hospitality to be infringed : one of our party was insulted by a 
 drunken black : a Turk, who was among the by-standers, imme- 
 diately chastised the negro, and dragged him before the Agà, where 
 he was condemned to the bastinado, nor could our intreaties procure 
 his pardon. 
 
 The poorer inhabitants live great part of the year almost entirely 
 upon a sort of hasty-pudding, made from pumpkins : the same food 
 is likewise used by the peasants of lower Britanny, in France, where 
 it is regarded as very wholesome. 
 
 A strange idea exists among the people, that the citadel is 
 haunted ; the convent built at the foot of its walls has been, for that 
 reason, abandoned, and it was a long time before we could get a 
 guide who had courage enough to climb the rock with us. The 
 ascent is steep, and occupies forty minutes : the view from the sum- 
 mit is extremely beautiful : before you, and, as it were, immediately 
 under your feet, stands the scattered town of Argos, the houses of 
 which are agreeably intermingled with gardens and trees ; behind 
 you rises the dark chain of Mount Artemesius : on the left you see 
 in the distance, the summit of Cyllene ; yonder, on the border of 
 the plain, stands the city of Agamemnon : Arachne closes the 
 prospect on the north-east side ; turning to the right the eye rests 
 on the calm expanse extending from Nauplia and Tyrinthus, and 
 bounded by the horizon. Artemesium is now called x/A;*« — Arachne, 
 
 MaAAe'fo. 
 
 The ancient citadel was called Larissa : the walls of a more 
 modern Venetian fort are raised upon its foundations, of which the 
 masonry (although different from that of the ruins at Tirynthus) 
 proves them to be of high antiquity. On the side of the citadel, 
 towards the gulf of Nauplia, are seen some steps hewn out of the 
 rock ; antiquaries pretend they are the seats of a theatre. These are 
 the only ruins we saw in this part of the Morea : and it would be use- 
 
142 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 less to seek the remains of the numerous buildings mentioned by Pau- 
 sanias ; for, being placed in the centre of a populous country, their 
 ruins must long since have been used by the inhabitants for the 
 erection of their own walls and houses. It may be regarded as a 
 general observation, that few ruins are ever found near large towns, 
 the marble being used to make lime, and the other stones for dif- 
 ferent purposes. 
 
 The ruins which Gothic barbarism left in Rome have served 
 to erect many of the palaces of the nobles of that city: those 
 edifices are indeed stately, and many of them fine; but yet one 
 cannot help regretting that remains so interesting should have 
 been devoted to such a purpose, and wondering that the people who 
 still boast themselves the first nation in works of art, should have so 
 little veneration for the relics of their ancestors. 
 
MYCENJE. 
 
 ENGLISH TOURISTS ROAD TO KRAVATA — THE INACHUS — KRAVATA — RUINS — CHANGE IN 
 
 THE FACE OF THE LAND — MASONRY HISTORY OF THE TOWN — ATREUS* TREASURIES 
 
 LORD SLIGO PRESERVATION OF CORN GATE OF THE LIONS WALLS OF THE 
 
 CITADEL — TEMPLE OF JUNO SUMMER'S DAY. 
 
 W E agreed with a horse-keeper of Argos to furnish us with four 
 horses, for twenty-five piasters, on to Corinth. We left our baggage 
 at our place of lodging until our return, not intending to be absent 
 more than three days. 
 
 The crowds of English tourists who have been in Greece, have, 
 as in many other parts of Europe, rendered the expenses of travel- 
 ling much greater than they were formerly. An Englishman, who 
 had been at Argos some days before we arrived, is said to have 
 given eighteen piasters for a horse to convey him on to Nauplia ; 
 the distance is not more than ten or eleven miles, and the usual 
 charge for a horse is three piasters. By similar acts of folly, such 
 an idea has been given of English wealth to the peasantry, that, 
 from a person of that nation, three or four times the regular price is 
 constantly demanded, and one must make up one's mind, in going 
 through the country, to be either constantly higgling and disputing, 
 or to be at every step most egregiously cheated. , 
 
 A road from Argos leads to the north-west, across the plain, to 
 the village or hamlet of Kravata. The Inachus was now without 
 water, and we passed its wide bed without wetting our feet : in 
 winter it rages violently, carrying away the mounds and walls 
 erected to keep it within its limits, spreading itself over the plain, 
 and fertilizing the fields.* 
 
 * Paus. lib. 2. — " Neither the Inachus, nor any other of those rivers carries water, except in 
 rainy weather." 
 
144 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Kravata* is a dirty and most miserable hamlet, consisting of 
 about twenty cottages, or rather tuguria : in the centre rises a 
 respectably-looking Turkish house, used generally as a granary 
 by the proprietor, and called the Pyrgo, or tower; this is the 
 modern Mycenae, the name of which is unknown to its present 
 inhabitants, as well as to the descendants of their ancient foes, 
 the Argives. A peasant offered to guide us to the Palaia, or 
 ruins ; we accepted his invitation, and, following the direction 
 of a small stream, we arrived, in about twenty minutes, at the 
 remains of this city. The immediate vicinity of Mycenae is ex- 
 cessively sterile and rocky, a circumstance alluded to by Aristotle, 
 who comments upon the change which took place in this country 
 after the siege of Troy ; then its fields were productive, while the 
 territory of Argos was swampy and marshy ; a drought of eight years, 
 however, dried up the marshes of the plain, and uncovered the stones 
 of the mountains, so that Argos became fertile, and Mycenae sterile. 
 The citadel is erected upon a rocky hillock, the top of which it 
 crowns : the blocks of stone which compose the walls are so great, 
 that, at a distance, you would perhaps be tempted to regard them 
 as forming a more rugged part of the rock on which they stand ; 
 they are of Cyclopic masonry, and certainly of a date as remote as 
 the ruins of Tirynthus. 
 
 Mycenae was, through jealousy, destroyed by the Argives, five 
 hundred and sixty-eight years before Christ ; its territory was ra- 
 vaged, its buildings were rased, and its unfortunate inhabitants were 
 compelled to seek an asylum in Laconia; nothing but ruins have 
 remained of this city for the last two thousand three hundred and 
 eighty-seven years, and those which modern travellers have once 
 more discovered, are, with little difference, the same as those de- 
 scribed by Pausanias, existing in his time. 
 
 * Kravata (K^a'SaTo?) is a name very frequently given to hamlets in the Morea ; at these 
 places there is generally one respectably-looking house, belonging to some rich individual, and 
 termed the wi^yo?, or tower; in these pyrgos travellers, with proper letters and introduction, may 
 easily obtain a few days' lodging. 
 
MYCENiE. 145 
 
 Two subterraneous chambers have been discovered at the foot of 
 the citadel and without the walls ; one of these, by the awkwardness 
 of the excavators, has been nearly destroyed ; the other remains 
 entire, and evidently nearly in the same state in which it was when 
 first built. 
 
 The entrance to this under-ground building is by a passage 
 gently descending between two walls of stone, and leading to an 
 entrance, the sides of which gradually incline to the top : above is 
 seen a triangular opening, now occupied by a wild fig-tree, whose 
 branches spread over the entrance. Within you find -a dome, 
 hemispherically shaped, about forty-nine feet in diameter at the 
 base, and fifty feet high : it is built of immense stones, nicely joined, 
 but without cement, and horizontally placed, their interior sides 
 being so hewn as to form a vault : on the walls are now seen rows 
 of holes, in which were formerly brass nails, most of which have 
 been drawn to satisfy the curiosity of visitors. The use of these 
 nails has not been at all satisfactorily explained — the use to which 
 either they, or the building itself, was originally appropriated, will, 
 probably, ever remain undecided. On the right-hand side, and within 
 the vault, is seen another entrance, likewise surmounted by a tri- 
 angular opening, and leading into a much smaller chamber, exca- 
 vated in a sandy and crumbling rock, now filled with bats, who 
 were much disturbed by the fires our guide lighted to shew us the 
 interior. 
 
 During the stay of Lord Sligo in the Morea, excavations were 
 made in this building under his direction and that of Veli, the pashà 
 of Tripolitzà : we were informed that the result of these researches 
 was the discovery of the shafts of two columns, without either capi- 
 tals or bases ; these were immediately presented to his Lordship, 
 who carefully transported the treasure to England. 
 
 This vault was, for a long time, denominated the tomb of 
 Agamemnon ; and Chateaubriand, in his Itinerary, mentidhs it as 
 such. This traveller certainly did stop in his hasty gallop across 
 the Peloponnesus, to look at Mycenee through a spy-glass from the 
 
 U 
 
146 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 road, and to devote some moments to his romantic feelings, heated 
 by so near a view of the kingdom of Agamemnon ; but it should be 
 recollected that Agamemnon, and all those who were murdered at 
 the banquet by Egistheus, are represented as having been buried 
 within the citadel.* We are told that among the ruins existing in 
 the beginning of the Christian era, were the subterraneous build- 
 ings of Atreus and his sons, in which they preserved their trea- 
 sures ; this sufficiently justifies the more recent name of Treasury of 
 Atreus, given to this building. 
 
 In those times, when the Peloponnesus contained as many petty 
 independent states as towns, constantly waging war with one an- 
 other, and ravaging the territory of their neighbours, prudence 
 would naturally suggest the necessity of concealing, in the most 
 retired and fortified places, the greatest of their treasures, the corn ; 
 for this purpose no spot could be better adapted than these subter- 
 raneous buildings ; their interior was perfectly dry, and when the 
 entrance was closed, it was difficult to discover the situation of the 
 granary. In the case of a defeat, the inhabitants might retire to 
 the citadel, abandon their houses to the fury of their merciless ene- 
 mies, and wait till the siege was raised ; at their return to the ruins 
 of the town, they were sure to find beneath them a supply of food ; 
 nothing, therefore, is more probable, than that both the galleries of 
 Tirynthus, and the vaults of Mycenae, were originally used as 
 granaries. Under-ground buildings, similar to those of Mycenae, 
 were, some years back, discovered in Lorraine, filled with corn, 
 black through age ; and even to this day the greater part of Barletta 
 is undermined by vaults, in which the grain is preserved often 
 twelve or thirteen years. 
 
 Clambering up the citadel, we proceeded to examine the Gate of 
 the Lions, one of those which led to the fort. It is about ten feet 
 high, and over it is the triangular space, usual in this architecture, 
 here fiflfed by a large stone, on which, in basso-relievo, are sculp- 
 
 * Paus. lib. 2. 
 
MYCENJE. 147 
 
 tured two lionesses, supporting a sort of column, tapering towards 
 the bottom. To determine whether this sculpture was placed here 
 through ostentation, as a coat of arms, or through superstition, as 
 the attributes of some deity, is a problem which has long occupied 
 the literati of Greece. 
 
 Crossing the rock, now swarming with wild pigeons, we arrived 
 at another entrance to the fort, as well preserved as the former; 
 here the triangular stone is unadorned with sculpture; the en- 
 trance, however, offers a curious specimen of the manner in which 
 the Myceneans fortified their gates : the door was folding ; the 
 parts were fastened upon two posts, about three inches in diameter, 
 each of which turned within two round holes, hewn in the architrave 
 and threshold, and answering the purpose of hinges : the whole was 
 fastened by a thick cross-bar, which could offer a long and effective 
 resistance against besiegers unacquainted with the powers of gun- 
 powder. 
 
 The walls of the citadel are built in the form of an oval, and 
 justify the epithets of Virgil and Homer — 
 
 fortesque Mycenas. 
 
 Georg. III. 121. 
 
 07 òt MvK7]i>ac ffyov ivKri/iivov 7rTo\U$pov. 
 
 II. II. 569. 
 
 Within the walls and on the top of the rock are seen a well and a 
 cistern, both hewn out of the stone; the latter is covered in the in- 
 terior with a sort of hard plaster, on which the point of a sabre 
 makes but little impression ; both are nearly filled with rubbish, and 
 the mouth of each is cut in the shape of a Roman D. Sir W. Geli 
 supposes these openings to have been communications to galleries, 
 such as those discovered at Tirynthus ; this I should be tempted to 
 regard as a mere fancy ; garrisons cannot exist without water ; every 
 citadel must, therefore, have wells or cisterns to preserve this neces- 
 sary article ; and as at Mycenae those cisterns must have been hewn 
 in the hard rock, it is very probable that the excavations before 
 alluded to were intended for that purpose : the truth of these sur- 
 
 U2 
 
148 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 mises will perhaps be ascertained by the excavations of some future 
 traveller. 
 
 At the foot of the rock, and nearly in a line with the Gate of the 
 Lions, we observed two long subterraneous passages, covered with 
 immense flat stones, together with other ruins, which we supposed 
 to be those of the ancient town itself. Of the sepulchres mentioned 
 by Pausanias we found no distinct remains. 
 
 It is known that, between Argos and Mycenae, there formerly 
 stood a temple sacred to Juno ; it was very celebrated in Greece, 
 and when Argos and Mycenae were distinct states, it was common 
 to both : the original temple was burnt by the negligence of one of 
 the priestesses, who left a lamp burning among some sacred bands : 
 it was afterwards re-built, not on its ancient site, but at fifteen stadia 
 (about a mile and a quarter) from Mycenae. Of this superb build- 
 ing not a trace is now left. Its site is most clearly pointed out by 
 that accurate topographer, Pausanias, who, describing the road 
 from Mycenae to Argos, says, "On the left of Mycenae, at fifteen 
 stadia distance, stands the Heraeum. A water, called the Eleutherian, 
 flows on this road ; they make use of it for ablutions, who have the 
 care of the temple of the secret sacrifices. 
 
 " The temple is placed on the flattest part of Eubaea; for they 
 call this mountain Eubaea, saying that three daughters were born to 
 the river Asterion — Eubaea, Prosymna, and Acrea, who were nurses 
 of Juno. The mountain which is opposite to Heraeum is called 
 Acrea; the space which surrounds the temple, Eubaea; and Pro- 
 symna, the country which lies below. The Asterion, flowing under 
 the Heraeum, loses itself in a cavern."* 
 
 From this description (the truth of which any person, who 
 has travelled through Greece with Pausanias in his hand, will 
 not one moment doubt) it would appear that the Heraeum was 
 built on a small plain, situate on the ridge, or near the top of a 
 mountain, on the left-hand side of the ruins of Mycenae. This 
 
 * Palis, lib. ii. cap. 17. 
 
MYCEN^. 149 
 
 mountain I fancied I could distinguish on my right, going from 
 Kravata to the ruins : Eubaea, Acrea, and Prosymna, seemed all easy 
 to distinguish; and a small stream, at which some Albanian cot- 
 tagers were washing their linen (a circumstance of rare occurrence 
 in Greece,) was most evidently the Asterion. I was assured that 
 no ruins stood on my fancied Eubasa ; and, not being alone, I could 
 not take upon myself to retard our journey by endeavouring to ob- 
 tain ocular demonstration : and after having satisfied the guide who 
 had accompanied us from Kravata, and taken a small piece of stone 
 as a relic of the city of the Atridae, Ave pursued our way to Corinth, 
 teazed with the din of the cicadce, and burnt by the heat of the sun. 
 How beautifully and how accurately does Virgil describe the 
 mid-day of a southern country : — 
 
 Inde, ubi quarta sitim coeli collegerit hora, 
 Et cantu querulae rumpent arbusta cicada ; 
 Ad puteos, aut alta greges ad stagna jubeto 
 Currentem ilignis potare canalibus undam. 
 
 Georg. III. 328. 
 
CORINTH. 
 
 ROAD FROM MYCENAE TO CORINTH DERVENI — KHAN — KOURTESSA DERVITCH — CLEON.E 
 
 ASOPUS — DESCENT TO THE ISTHMUS — VIEW CORINTH — MEDICINE ACROCORINTH 
 
 ST. PAUL — PIRENIAN CHAMBERS — PORTS OF CORINTH HOUSE OF THE BEY — RELI- 
 GIOUS CEREMONY OVENS. 
 
 A HE road from Mycenae to Corinth verges from the plain of Argos, 
 and, following the banks of a small river, passes by a narrow strait 
 between the mountains, which, probably, formerly was the boundary 
 separating Corinthia from Argolis. 
 
 This river was not quite dry, and on its borders grew abundance 
 of myrtle and arbutes ; we supposed it to be the ancient Cephissus 
 of Argolis. At the opening of the strait there is placed a Derveni, 
 or gnard-house, a hut in which are stationed five or six of the neigh- 
 bouring peasants, to look out for the thieves. In turbulent times 
 the Derveni is filled with Turkish soldiers, who then do the duty, 
 permitting no one to pass without a passport from the pashà. In 
 undisturbed times the traveller is generally met by one of the guard, 
 who offers him a cup of water, the value of which can be known 
 only by him who has travelled in the mid-day sun over this country. 
 Those who have no passports either from the bey or pashà might be 
 stopped, but a present of ten or twelve parats secures them from 
 any annoyance in this respect. 
 
 Between My cense and Corinth we passed a tolerably clean khan, 
 situated near a mount, on the top of which are the foundations of 
 walls and other buildings : we supposed them to be the ruins of 
 Cleonae,* mentioned as being on tHe road to Argos from Corinth. 
 The khan is called Kourtessa; on the declivity, opposite to it, 
 
 ivcrfpcyac ti K\iuvà£. — II. /?. 
 
CORINTH. 151 
 
 stands a small village, the name of which we understood to be 
 Agios Basile. Further in the mountains we were told that there 
 was another village, called Klenà, with a monastery (Phane- 
 romene ;) if this is true, the similarity between the names of the 
 ancient town and the small modern village is striking. 
 
 We stopped at Kourtessa to refresh our horses : we met here a 
 Dervitch, from the monastery at Athens : he had been to Tripolitzà, 
 and was returning homeward, for which purpose some good Mo- 
 hammedan devotee had furnished him with a donkey : we invited 
 this austere follower of the Koran to share with us our bread and 
 wine, an invitation which he did not suffer us to repeat; and, as the 
 Turks rarely begin drinking wine without continuing till intoxicated, 
 we were obliged to leave the monk at the khan, where he passed the 
 night, unable to continue his journey. 
 
 From Cleoni the road leads over a valley about two miles 
 broad, and on each side bounded by mountains : the land might, 
 with but little labour, be rendered as productive as that of the plain 
 of Argos ; but as you advance towards the Isthmus, the country 
 is more thinly inhabited, and consequently less cultivated. The 
 road is intersected by numerous ravines, deep and dangerous, 
 which, at every step, threaten destruction to the incautious and in- 
 attentive traveller. A river, one of the very few which had any 
 water in this season, flows on the left, and drives a respectably-look- 
 ing mill, the property of an Agà of Corinth. This stream we took 
 to be the Asopus, for it is certainly the largest which either Sicionia 
 or Corinthia can boast of possessing. 
 
 The valley of Cleonae is considerably higher than the Isthmus, 
 which is approached by a descent rather rapid. From the top of 
 this declivity we were unexpectedly presented with a beautiful view 
 of Corinth and its neighbourhood. On the left is Sicyonia, and, on 
 the mountain's side, Basiliko, the site of ancient Sicyon, whose 
 modern name seems still to indicate its former greatness ; beneath 
 the dark and quiet waters of the gulf of Lepanto, into which 
 stretches the mountain-chain of Gerania, the barrier of the Pelo- 
 ponnesus : over Sicyon rises the peaked mount Cyllene, whose sides 
 
152 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 in winter decked with snow, in spring enveloped with mists, serve 
 the Athenians as a never-failing barometer ; it is now called Zigria : 
 beyond the Corinthian gulf are seen the lofty and sterile mountains, 
 named by the peasants Zagara, among which are those so celebrated 
 by poets — Cithaeron, Helicon, and Parnassus : the narrow Isthmus, 
 covered with olive -grounds and adorned with houses, separates the 
 Saronic gulf from the opposite waters : the island of Salamis, and 
 the tops of Parnes, Pentelicus, and Hymettus, are discernible ; and 
 were it not for the Acrocorinth, which bounds the view on the right, 
 the prospect would stretch to the Icarian sea. 
 
 At Corinth we took up our abode at the house of one Andrea, a 
 native of Friuli, in Italy : this person has adopted the Greek dress, 
 manners, and religion : he acts as physician, and in that capacity 
 enjoys great reputation in the country ; he attends the family of the 
 bey. The ignorance of those who practise medicine in the Levant 
 is excessive : any Frank, who has sufficient money to purchase a 
 stock of rhubarb and bark, is sure of having many patients to attend. 
 For the Turks, however absurdly we may suppose them to be at- 
 tached to their belief in predestination, prefer the most ignorant of 
 European quacks to the most learned of their own hakyms, or phy- 
 sicians. 
 
 At Constantinople there are two schools for medicine, and no 
 Turk can practise without the permission of the sultan's first phy- 
 sician. Franks may establish themselves any where in the east as 
 physicians, without either diploma or testimonials. The physician 
 generally acts also as druggist, apothecary, and surgeon. Men- 
 mid wives are not known in Turkey ; the office of attending women 
 is abandoned to females, who are said to perform their task with no 
 small skill. 
 
 Among the Mohammedans it is forbidden to open any dead 
 body; you may, therefore, easily conceive, that the science of 
 anatomy has not made much progress among them : indeed, one is 
 at a loss which to regard as the greatest, the credulity of the patient, 
 or the ignorance of the physician. Both Turks and Greeks imagine 
 that a physician need only feel their pulse to be perfectly acquainted 
 
CORINTH. 153 
 
 with the nature of their disorder, and that to ask any questions con- 
 cerning the other symptoms is a proof of ignorance. To the efforts 
 of medicine those of religion are likewise called in to the aid of the 
 sick, who are constantly dinned by prayers, re 1 eated with the 
 greatest volubility, in order, as they say, to drive away the evil 
 spirit. Among the Greeks the patient is every five minutes sprinkled 
 with holy water, and should he unfortunately be in easy circum- 
 stances, the confined air of his room is heated by the flames of 
 numerous tapers, burnt before the image of the Panagia, or virgin. 
 
 Corinth is situate about one mile from the gulf of Lepanto : it 
 consists of many scattered houses : it has a small bazar, and is the 
 seat of a bey : it certainly is not so miserable and unwholesome a 
 spot as the accounts of travellers had induced me to expect I should 
 find on the site of this once opulent city. It has three mosques and 
 two public ovens. The Acro-corinth, now called the Castro, is sur- 
 rounded with Avails, of Venetian structure : it is erected on a high 
 impending rock, fortified on all sides by craggy precipices, except 
 towards the south-west, where is placed the entrance. This fort, 
 although by Plutarch supposed impregnable, was not sufficiently 
 strong to defend the Peloponnesus against the arms of Mahomet 
 the Second, who subjected this country to the Othman crescent. 
 
 To ascend to the fort from the town occupies about half an 
 hour : it is said to be one league in circumference : within it are 
 several houses, inhabited by the soldiers of the garrison, who, in the 
 night, are constantly heard calling to one another, when on guard, 
 according to the Turkish fashion. From its summit must be had a 
 beautiful view of the surrounding country ; but we could not enjoy 
 it, all travellers being forbidden to enter the citadel without a direct 
 firmàn from the sultan for that purpose. The Princess of Wales 
 and the female part of her suite were allowed to enter the fort when 
 they visited Corinth : the bey, at whose house she lodged (whether 
 in the harem, or elsewhere, I was not informed,) accompanied her 
 very gallantly up the rock, and had the honour of shewing to her 
 Royal Highness a few rusty guns and heaps of marble balls : of anti- 
 
 X 
 
154 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 quities, one of her attendants, whom I since met in Italy, told me they 
 found none in the citadel : so that it is probable that few vestiges re- 
 main of the celebrated Temple of Venus. The remains of the Tem- 
 ples of Isis and Serapis, of the Fates, of Ceres and Proserpine, have 
 been sought for in vain on the road leading to the Acro-corinth. 
 
 Andrea's house is built on the capitol, or Coriphasus of the 
 town. Near it is a small fountain, by the side of the road to the 
 Acropolis ; we supposed it to be the ancient fountain of Lerna : we 
 could find, however, no traces of the columns and seats which sur- 
 rounded it in the time of Pausanias. Very near to this fountain are 
 seen four columns, of the Doric order, bearing part of their archi- 
 trave : they are thick and short, and have not that majestic appear- 
 ance produced by the proportions given to this order in the time of 
 Pericles. They apparently belonged to the Temple of Jupiter 
 Coriphaeus ; for they are evidently placed on the capitol, and as you 
 go towards the citadel, they are seen before you pass the fountain of 
 Lerna; and so far, certainly, their situation agrees with that given 
 to the Temple of Jupiter. At the foot of the rock we found some 
 caverns, still bearing the appearance of rooms : we took them 
 (perhaps without sufficient reason) to be those wherein flowed the 
 famous Pirenian water, in which the Corinthians were wont to dip 
 their brass when red-hot, to give it its admired colour : this water 
 was supposed to spring from a source in the citadel, called Pirenus, 
 where Bellerophon caught the winged Pegasus, and it was said to de- 
 scend by secret passages through the rock into the town. There is 
 now no spring in the caverns or chambers I have just described, but 
 a little lower down, in the bazar, a fountain raises its waters with con- 
 siderable force through the hollowed shaft of an ancient column, and, 
 throwing them over its capital, fills a wide basin : it is surrounded 
 by coffee-houses, in which, as usual, the Turks are constantly seen 
 lounging. The water of the fountain was most luxuriously cold, and 
 several persons affirmed that it. proceeded from the Acro-corinth — 
 
 (Jino to v.xspo.) 
 
 As St. Paul remained at Corinth some time, you may readily 
 
CORINTH. 155 
 
 conclude that a relic of this holy man must still be shewn. While 
 we were examining the Pirenian chambers, a young Greek lad 
 offered to conduct us to the Giotto of Paul (Spelia tou agiou 
 Paulou ;) we followed him by a craggy path to the foot of the 
 walls of the citadel. A natural cave is seen, where the saint is 
 said to have dwelt during part of his stay at Corinth. A seat in the 
 stone is pointed out also, as having served him for a bed; and a 
 small rock, perhaps once covered with earth, is said to have fur- 
 nished him with his humble fare. On this spot a small chapel has 
 been erected ; it is greatly venerated by the Greeks of Corinth, who, 
 once a year, make a procession hither from the town, with as much 
 pomp as the extreme poverty of the church will allow. 
 
 Corinth has still two ports, one on the gulf of Lepanto, another 
 on that of Egina. At the former four or five merchant- brigs gene- 
 rally anchor in the year, to load with the oil produced in the terri- 
 tory of Sicyonia : some small Greek vessels sometimes touch there 
 also with a cargo of salt fish, which is afterwards exported to the in- 
 terior of the Morea. At the other a few miserable caiques some- 
 times anchor, either for the purpose of fishing, or to land a Tatar 
 from Athens. Such was the state of commerce at Corinth when we 
 visited that town. It must have been far greater in more remote 
 times ; for when the crew of a merchant's bark feared to encounter 
 the least storm, and dreaded to trust themselves a furlong from the 
 shore — then to double Cape Maleum was considered a much more 
 mighty and dangerous undertaking than now it would be to sail 
 round the southern continent of America. Corinth then naturally 
 became the chief point of passage between Italy, Greece, and Asia, 
 between the east and the west: the shores of the Isthmus were 
 covered with goods, the produce of distant countries ; the streets of 
 Corinth were filled with strangers, who introduced partially their 
 manners and their customs ; and this city became, like all great 
 commercial towns, the seat of opulent industry, and, at the same 
 time, a sink of expensive vice. 
 
 At Lechseum there are two or three houses ; but of the temple 
 
 X2 
 
156 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 erected there to Neptune, we found no remains. The shore shelve» 
 gradually, and consists of a hard sand, on which the human foot 
 makes no impression. The colour of this sea is much darker than 
 that of the ocean : its stillness and coolness invited us irresistibly to 
 bathe : I threw off my clothes on the shore, and made a most de- 
 lightful swimming excursion : the bracing power of the salt water 
 was truly wonderful, and much greater than I expected. 
 
 Cenchrese is now uninhabited. The illness of one of our party 
 obliged us to stop longer at Corinth than we had intended ; and, as 
 curiosity must always yield to friendship, I had no opportunity of 
 examining more closely the Isthmus. I was informed that the tepid 
 salt bath of Helen was to be found near Cenchrese, and that the 
 effects of the endeavours of different nations to unite the Saronic 
 and Corinthian gulfs were still visible. Were such an undertaking 
 attended with any prospect of future utility, I see no obstacle which 
 could prevent its completion, with the knowledge which we now 
 have of gunpowder : it struck me, however, when looking at the 
 Isthmian plain from a distance, that the eastern shore was much 
 higher than the western. 
 
 The house of the bey of Corinth is large and open : his jurisdic- 
 tion extends a great distance over some of the most fertile parts of 
 the Morea. We were shewn in the yard two or three gaudily- 
 painted waggons, the carriages of this great man, in which he some- 
 times transports his harem (consisting of four or five women) to a 
 neighbouring country-house. These vehicles are regarded by the 
 inhabitants as wonders of the mechanic art ; for wheeled carriages 
 of any description, besides those of the pashàs and beys, are never 
 seen in any part of Greece. 
 
 Corinth is generally visited by travellers on their way from Italy 
 to Athens : they come either up the gulf from Patrass, or by land 
 through Achaia and Sicyonia. A bark from Patrass to Corinth, if 
 freighted purposely for the traveller, will cost ninety piasters : a 
 horse may be had to perform the journey in two days and a half, 
 for thirty or forty piasters. 
 
CORINTH. 157 
 
 We quitted Corinth on the Saturday morning, having previously 
 gone to the church, to witness the kissing of the cross, a ceremony 
 practised by the Greeks every twenty- sixth day of September, (ac- 
 cording to their style, the fourteenth.) The church was crowded 
 with people : the men standing on one side, the women on the other : 
 several priests were chaunting hymns and incensing the church. 
 Before the altar was placed, in a basket of flowers, a crucifix, which 
 each of the assistants, having previously crossed himself, kissed, 
 and then took a flower, at the same time placing some small pieces 
 of coin in a dish, held by one of the priests. 
 
 When on the point of departing, we were for some time stopped 
 by an unforeseen obstacle : the ovens were closed, as it was a feast 
 day, and it was impossible for us to obtain any bread for our jour- 
 ney ; and, had it not been for the hospitality of our host, who con- 
 sented, after some intreaties, to give us two loaves for the quadruple 
 of their value, we should probably have been obliged to remain an- 
 other day at Corinth. 
 
 There are two public bakers in the town ; for every city in Greece 
 has a certain number of ovens for the baking of bread and meat. 
 They are heated by a furnace, placed under them. The bread is 
 generally clean, but not very good, being gritty and almost without 
 leaven. The Turks sometimes make a more palatable sort of cake, 
 by mixing the flour with oil. The same oven is never used for the 
 baking of bread and of meat; the kebabjée, or roaster of meat 
 being a trade quite different from the echmetjée, or baker of bread. 
 These ovens for baking meat we found very convenient during our 
 tour : a turkey or a fowl sent to them alive, is, two or three hours 
 afterwards, returned perfectly well cooked; for a trifling sum. 
 
NEMEA. 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE THREE COLUMNS — RIDGE OF THE ACRO-CORINTH — CLEONjE — ALBANIANS 
 
 THEIR LANGUAGE AND DRESS — THEIR HOUSES — ROAD FROM CLEONjE TO NEMEA 
 
 RUINS — VILLAGE OF AGIOS GIORGIOS — RETURN TO ARGOS. 
 
 WE hired, for twenty-eight piasters, four horses, to return to 
 Argos. On our road we were to stop to examine the ruins of 
 Nemea, now called Treis Colonnais, the " Three Columns." Each 
 of our steeds had a small bell appended to his neck, the constant 
 noise of which, joined to the heat of the sun, rendered our journey 
 rather uncomfortable. 
 
 I observed, on the ridge of the Acro-corinth, some vestiges of 
 the wall which formerly surrounded both the city and its fort. This 
 wall, which still existed in the days of Strabo, is mentioned as being 
 eighty-five stadia in circumference ; an assertion, the truth of which, 
 from my observations, I should not be tempted to doubt. We 
 stopped once more to look at the gulfs, so celebrated in history as 
 the scenes of naval engagements between the Persians and the 
 Greeks, the Corcyrians and the Corinthians, the Turks and the 
 Venetians. 
 
 We proceeded nearly on the same road as that we had followed 
 when coming to Corinth, till we arrived at the eminence on which 
 stand the ruins of Cleoni : these we passed on the left. A young 
 goatherd was tending his flock among the ruins, to which he gave 
 the name of Toupashà ; we enquired of him the road to the Treis 
 Colonnais ; he pointed across the mountains, and, with a civility, of 
 which we found, during the whole of our tour, no other example, 
 offered to conduct us thither ; an offer which was gladly accepted. 
 
NEMEA. 159 
 
 The greater part of the persons employed in agriculture through- 
 out the Morea are Albanians, at least so called (Arnouts:) they 
 are Christians, and form a hardy, vigorous race, far, very far supe- 
 rior to the Greek: their language is Albanese, although most of 
 those who do not inhabit the tops of the mountains speak also 
 Greek. These colonies are probably the remains of the several 
 eruptions made by the Sclavonians into the Morea during the eighth 
 century ; and I should hardly hesitate referring to the same origin 
 the inhabitants, the unconquered braccio di Maina, although they 
 have generally been regarded as the descendants of the Eleutheroi 
 Lacones. 
 
 The dress of the Albanian peasant consists of a coarse cotton 
 shirt, or rather shift, which, when undressed, falls to his feet ; a 
 leathern belt serves to contain his purse and knife, and to support a 
 pair of loose drawers ; on his feet are sandals, formed of untanned 
 goat's skin, and fastened with the nerves of the same animal ; his 
 head is shaved, and covered with a skull cap and red turban. In 
 winter a jacket of sheep-skin defends him from the inclemency of 
 the weather. The women dress in the same manner, but with the 
 addition of a cloak without sleeves, of white flannel, embroidered 
 with black list : their fingers are generally stained on the nails and 
 knuckles with a red dye, also used for the hair, which is twisted in 
 long tresses, hanging on their backs : their only ornaments are a few 
 pieces of money. The parats, a Turkish coin about the size of a 
 farthing, are often strung together like the scales of a fish, and used 
 as caps by the young girls. 
 
 Few of their houses have more than one room ; they are all 
 without chimneys ; the fire is lighted in the middle of the floor, and 
 all the family squat around, inured by habit to the powers of wood 
 smoke. They live almost entirely upon pickled olives and cheese, 
 or rather salt soured milk : in manners they are barbarous, untrac- 
 table, and inhospitable. 
 
 Two roads formerly led from Corinth to Argos ; one, probably 
 the same as that we had before taken, was less mountainous, but 
 
160 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 not well adapted to cars ; these generally passed by that called 
 Tretum. Oil this latter road was situate Nemea, in the plain, on 
 which the games were celebrated. In the neighbouring mountains 
 there was shewn the cave in which Hercules killed the lion. Nemea 
 was a village : it contained a Temple of Jupiter, surrounded by 
 cypress trees; but the roof had already fallen in the second cen- 
 tury. 
 
 From Cleonae the road is carried over craggy rocks, still bearing 
 the marks of ancient wheels, from the top of which you descend 
 into the Nemean plain, a valley surrounded with mountains, and in 
 the middle of which stand three columns of the Doric order, two 
 of which bear their architrave : underneath are confusedly scattered 
 fragments of walls and columns of a species of free-stone. The 
 grove of cypress no longer exists ; two or three wild pear-trees are the 
 only plants now seen on this uncultivated plain : we could not dis- 
 tinguish the tumulus of Lycurgus, the father of Ophelta, nor the 
 fountain Adrastea, mentioned by Pausanias. 
 
 Through the plain is the direction of the road from the village of 
 Agios Giorgios to Corinth : the former of these places is distant an 
 hour's journey from Nemea : it produces the best wine in the Morea, 
 great quantities of which passed us, on the backs of asses and 
 mules, while we were examining the ruins ; and our servants did not 
 neglect this opportunity of filling the spherical wooden barrels which 
 they wore slung round their shoulders. On the border of the road a 
 6mall Greek chapel has been erected ; it is now almost in as ruinous 
 a state as the Temple of Jupiter : from its chancel a caprificus, or 
 wild fig-tree, spreads its branches : we made coffee in its shade, and 
 dined heartily. 
 
 The ground in the vicinity of Nemea is covered with land-tor- 
 toises : this animal is used as food by many nations. I recollect 
 6eting, somewhere in the Archipelago, a tartan loaded with these 
 reptiles, bound to the Black Sea. When thrown on their backs 
 they utter a long hissing sound, not unlike the groan of human 
 distress. 
 
. , ' l.y>\s : • ' • R I ' R1U. 
 
 ■ 
 
NEMEA. 161 
 
 We crossed the plain of Nemea to the left, and then re-ascend- 
 ing Tretum, came once more to the Derveni of Argolis, by a gra- 
 velly road, overgrown with myrtle and arbutes. A ride of two or 
 three hours over the territory of Argos, brought us, at sun-set, to 
 the town. We found our effects safe at our place of lodging: it 
 was a khan, a miserable resting-place indeed, but the best we could 
 procure, for we had no letters of recommendation to any of the 
 inhabitants. 
 
 
TRIPOLITZA. 
 
 
 HORSES — MODE OF TRAVELLING — CAUTIONS TO TRAVELLERS FOUNT OF ERASINUS SITB 
 
 OF LERSA ROAD TO TRIPOLITZA BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT RECKONING OF TIME 
 
 DAOULA SCALA TOU BEY PLAIN OF TEG^A ARRIVAL AT TRIPOLITZA — THE 
 
 TOWN VELI, PASHA OF MOREA FORTRESS OF THE TOWN PREPARATIONS FOR WAR 
 
 PRESENTS VISIT TO THE PASHA. 
 
 SEVERAL horse-keepers offered us horses to convey us to Tripo- 
 litzà : from one of these, a Turk, we hired five horses for the rest 
 of our journey; for each we were to pay at the rate of seven 
 piasters a day. Three of these served as saddle-horses for my com- 
 panions and myself; the two others carried Giorgios and the bag- 
 gage : three muleteers, hostlers, or whatever you may choose to call 
 them, followed us on foot ; they belonged to the household of the 
 Turkish proprietor, and their business was to take care of the horses 
 and to bring them back to Argos when our journey should be ended. 
 Their names were Demou, Nicoli, and Thanachi. Our caravan 
 started for Tripolitzà early on the morning which followed our return 
 to Argos. 
 
 The most convenient and economical mode of travelling here is 
 on the horses of the country people ; for to travel post would be 
 to gallop by the most interesting spots, and to use your own horses 
 would be an endless source of expense, trouble, and vexation. The 
 horses are bar-shod, and, as in Spain, the shoes are fastened on 
 without the injurious practice of burning the hoof. The clucking 
 which, in England, is used to excite the horse to speed, here is the 
 only sound by which the animal may be stopped ; it answers to the 
 English wo ! a circumstance which often throws a traveller uncon- 
 scious of the difference into very awkward difficulties. The use of 
 the bar-shoe renders journeying in wet weather extremely uncom- 
 
TRIPOLITZA. 163 
 
 fortable, not to say dangerous : at other times, however, it hinders 
 the horse from injuring his feet on the hard pointed rocks which he 
 is obliged to pass, or on the small stones with which the roads are 
 cov r ered. They have no saddles ; instead of which a wooden pack 
 is placed on the horse's back ; when covered with a capote, or 
 blanket, the rider is seated on it, having his feet in a noose of rope 
 instead of stirrups, and in his hand a halter, for a bridle, with a 
 piece of cord for the bit. Thus accoutred, he performs his journey, 
 generally followed by another horse, or donkey, carrying his bed 
 and other utensils ; behind walks one or two muleteers, making the 
 rocks echo the most inharmonious and senseless sounds you can 
 well imagine : you are astonished to hear they are singing a Greek 
 song. 
 
 It is highly necessary that, during the heat of the day, the mouth 
 of the horse should be covered with a net or bag, otherwise the flies 
 and musquitoes will sometimes so teaze the animal as to endanger 
 the life of the rider, particularly when travelling on the sides of 
 precipices, where one false step might dash him and his steed head- 
 long down the rocks to an immeasurable distance. When travelling 
 by night, it is far best to let your horse have his head quite loose ; 
 he will generally find the road with uncommon sagacity, and walk 
 with the greatest security, smelling the ground before he steps. The 
 traveller who studies his own comfort is obliged to preserve the strict- 
 est discipline among his Greek attendants ; but I am sorry to observe 
 that my short experience abundantly suffices to convince me of the 
 truth of the report of other travellers, that obedience to their most 
 trifling orders could be enforced by blows only. Like the Helots of 
 Sparta, the modern Greeks seem to be a middle race, between slaves 
 and freemen ; nor does the similarity exist in this one point only. 
 
 After we had quitted Argos, we crossed the plain in a southerly 
 direction, and entered the plain of Lerna, the habitation of the 
 dreaded Hydra, and the scene of Hercules' valorous exploit. The 
 fount of the Erasinus is on the right hand : the waters gush from 
 under a rock : a wall with three arches divides its stream into three 
 
 Y2 
 
164 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 branches, each of which drives three mills, at the distance of about 
 two hundred yards; the source is called, by the inhabitants, ta 
 Kephalaia (the heads.) Over it is seen an extremely regularly- 
 arched grotto, of a great size ; from its top distils a sort of bitu- 
 minous liquor, which produces rather a disagreeable smell : want of 
 light, the fear of my guides, and the repelling appearance of the 
 cavern, hindered me from exploring its interior recesses. 
 
 A little beyond the last mill, passed on the road to Tripolitzà, 
 we observed a hillock of mould, produced by an excavation made a 
 year back : this excavation brought to light three small black marble 
 columns : it was undertaken by a private individual, and not as 
 most of those in the Morea, by Veli, whilst he was pashà at Tripo- 
 litzà. 
 
 To the left, and a little beyond the Kephalaia, is seen the site of 
 Lerna : and about five miles from Argos, we passed the ruins of a 
 fort, of Venetian structure ; it is here called Palaio Castro, a gene- 
 ral term given to ruins of that nature. Hence the road quits the 
 vineyards of Lerna, and begins rising, in order to pass the great 
 range of mountains which separate Argolis from Arcadia : the path 
 is carried on the ridge with as much skill as is necessary for a road, 
 over which wheeled carriages are never meant to roll. After travel- 
 ling four hours, we arrived at a source which sprung from a lime- 
 stone rock : its waters were cold as ice, and the stream flowed plen- 
 tifully down the mountain, producing on its borders a verdure, to 
 which our eyes had long been unaccustomed. We had from this 
 spot one of the most beautiful sea-views you can imagine. The 
 Gulf of Nauplia, with the island of Specie (Tiparenus,) and the 
 Archipelago, studded with islands, formed this delightful prospect, 
 whence we were separated by a barrier of dark-coloured mountains, 
 over which, elevated as we were, the eye ranged unbounded. Soon 
 after we arrived at a tolerably good khan, called Daoula, at which a 
 Derveni is established : here we found many Greek travellers, rest- 
 ing during the heat of the day ; we alighted and followed their 
 example. 
 
TRIPOLITZA. 165 
 
 " What o'clock is it?" was usually the first question I had to 
 answer any Greek traveller whom I met on the road : this proceeds, 
 perhaps, rather from their mode of calculating by time distance be- 
 tween places, than from mere curiosity : nothing, however, pleases 
 a Romaic peasant so much as a sight of the machinery of a watch ; 
 when very small, he gazes at it with wonder. Most of the richer 
 individuals among the Turks carry in their girdle a large watch, 
 generally of London manufacture, inclosed in a tortoise-shell case, 
 and fastened round their necks with a silver chain ; this they shew 
 with no small pride to the Frank traveller, and a smile of content 
 never fails to cross their frigid countenances when they hear pro- 
 nounced the word " London," written on the dial ; so attached are 
 
 they to goods of English manufacture. The Turks reckon their 
 hours from six in the morning to six in the evening, so that mid-day 
 
 falls with them at six o'clock. This mode of reckoning time is, 
 perhaps, in part derived from the Italians, who reckon (at least, 
 in the southern parts of Italy) from sun- set to sun- set, twenty- 
 four hours : by this means they have the extreme disadvantage 
 of starting from a variable point ; and it is only by a reference 
 to their almanack that they can set their watch so as to give them 
 twenty-four o'clock at sun-set. Our mode of keeping time is known 
 in Naples by the name of " ora di Francia," or '* di Spagna." 
 
 From Daoula the road descends into a vale, perfectly inclosed 
 with mountains : on the left we passed some ruins ; they seemed 
 the remains of a town, the foundations of the walls of which were 
 still visible. In the centre of the valley, and among productive 
 fields of maize, we observed a large khan. After having crossed the 
 valley, we arrived at another Derveni, situate close to two small 
 miserable villages : here commences the terrific and grand pass, 
 called the Scala tou Bey, from the rank of the Turk who con- 
 structed it. It is a zig-zag, and almost perpendicular causeway, up 
 which the strata of the rock serve as steps to facilitate the ascent : 
 on the right rises a lofty rock, while, on the left, the rider shudders 
 at the sight of a fathomless abyss, the brink of which is guarded by 
 
166 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 neither parapet nor rails. It takes about an hour and a half to 
 ascend to the top of the last mountain which forms the range. 
 Hence we descended into the plain of Tegsea, in which is situated 
 the city of Tripolitzà, the capiteli of the Morea. The plain is very 
 well cultivated ; it is of an oval shape, surrounded by mountains, of 
 which, those on the sides of Argolis and Laconia are the highest. 
 At the lower extremity of this plain was situated the ancient city of 
 Tegaea; at the upper extremity are still seen the ruins of Man- 
 tinea: between these two, and near the site of Pallantium, is placed 
 Tripolitzà, which probably derives its name from the vicinity of the 
 
 three towns, QrqtTg -noA*? - ?.) 
 
 It was almost dark when we arrived in this town. Near it seen 
 a gallows, a sure sign of the habitation of a pashà not being far 
 off; for no execution takes place in Turkey without the permis- 
 sion of a pashà. When we arrived the streets were lighted by heaps 
 of burning pitch. We were a long time seeking for some room to 
 pass the night in, and after having been bandied about from 
 khans to convents, and from convents to khans, we at last established 
 ourselves in a small habitation near the walls, the house of a Romaic 
 physician, where we were as comfortable as the flocks of fleas and 
 the intruding politeness of our hostess would allow. 
 
 The principal ornament of this modern town is the bazar, which 
 is both extensive and clean : much merchandise is exposed for sale, 
 under the wooden galleries, on both sides. It had been rebuilt 
 about three months since, after a destructive fire. The other build- 
 ings of the town are much meaner than one would expect to find in 
 the capital of the Morea, and the seat of a pashà. The houses are 
 chiefly built of clay, hardened in the sun. The palace of the pashà 
 is a large square edifice of wood, gaudily painted, and surrounded 
 with galleries, under which live his attendants : the house possesses 
 the luxury (rare in this country) of glass windows : behind it, and 
 upon a stone platform, are placed six rusty guns, with broken-down 
 carriages ; they were pointed directly opposite to the stables of his 
 Highness. When we were at Tripolitzà the pashà was ill, having 
 
TRIPOLITZÀ. 167 
 
 unfortunately broken his leg by a fall from his horse : his name is 
 Ali, for it is now six years since Veli has been removed. The latter 
 was extremely polite to the foreigners who visited his capital, and 
 had something like a taste for literature : he had even ordered one 
 of his Dragomans to translate Pausanias into Romaic; and I under- 
 stand that it is intended, by the Ionian Academy, to present him, as 
 well as Ali, the pashà of Albania, with an honorary degree. The 
 extortions of Veli will, however, cause his name long to be remem- 
 bered by the inhabitants. Great respect is paid to the English at 
 Tripolitzà, perhaps instinctively, on account of the vicinity of the 
 Ionian Islands. This respect was lately evinced on the arrival of the 
 English consul from Patrass to Tripolitzà : he was met without the 
 walls of the town by thirty of the pasha's guards, who conducted 
 him into the town, surrounded by an immense multitude of people. 
 During his stay he was always treated with the same mark of 
 honour. 
 
 The fortress of the town is built upon a point of Mount Maenalus, 
 at the foot of which the city stands : it seems not very strong, or 
 difficult of approach. At the bottom of its walls, and near a spring, 
 Veli built an agreeable summer-house, constantly kept cool by 
 streams of cold water flowing through it : from this place he had a 
 fine view, extending over the red roofs of the houses of Tripolitzà, 
 to Mounts Artemesium, Parthenius, and Maenalus, the favourite 
 residence of the God of Herds. The present proprietor having no 
 taste for hydrostatics, has neglected the building for some time, and 
 it now serves as a coffee-house : the white walls are on all sides 
 covered with the. names of Greeks and Turks, and of some Frank 
 travellers : an English hand has traced, in different parts of the 
 room, some of the words which disgrace the walls of London : to 
 perpetuate their indelicacy by obscene inscriptions on the Avails, is a 
 custom which both Turks and Greeks have to learn from more 
 civilized nations. The town is surrounded by a stone wall ; it has 
 seven gates and five mosques : every five or six hours, two or 
 three soldiers walk round the walls on a sort of parapet, whence they 
 
168 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 can overlook the town and the country : this is the only mode of 
 keeping guard in time of peace. 
 
 While we were at Tripolitzà, a sort of bustle was disturbing the 
 indolent tranquillity which, at other times, pervades the town. A 
 Turk of Calivrata (a small place, situate between Tripolitzà and 
 Patrass) distributed among the inhabitants of his district, last year, 
 (1817,) a great quantity of corn. A famine then affected the Morea 
 so far, that corn was sold at fifteen piasters the measure, or ninety 
 pounds' weight; and the Turk, with great apparent generosity, con- 
 sented to give credit for the grain until the following harvest had 
 been housed. In 1818 the harvest was good and plentiful, and the 
 Greeks wished to return the grain — a measure to which the Turk 
 would not accede : he wanted money ; this being sturdily refused 
 by the inhabitants, he had endeavoured to extort it by force. A 
 complaint was immediately made to Ali, who ordered him to appear 
 at his court. To this mandate the haughty Turk, relying on the 
 strong situation of his house, and the number of his vassals, refused 
 compliance, and the pashà was now preparing to enforce obedience ; 
 every where soldiers were to be seen armed, and we were in- 
 formed that one piece of cannon had been sent to curb the 
 rebel. I was afterwards told that the matter had been compromised 
 by a sum of money, which the poor Greek peasants will, doubtless, 
 have ultimately to pay. 
 
 The pashà had also just received the sultan's firmàn, continuing 
 him in his place : this comes annually to the pashà, and is publicly 
 read to the primates of the different towns, who then pay him a 
 visit, and, at their return, send from the common purse large pre- 
 sents of honey, butter, shawls, horses, &c. The caimacan did the 
 honours of the palace, the pashà being ill. 
 
 It is usual for travellers to visit the pashà when they pass through 
 Tripolitzà, and to conciliate his friendship by a present of a shawl, 
 a watch, a pair of pistols, or, what they prefer above all, a cut-glass 
 jug. The Bouiourdou, or passport of the pashà, may thus be easily 
 obtained; it may, in some cases, be of use, because it enables you 
 
TRIPOLITZA. 169 
 
 to obtain horses at the posts, and even food, gratis. However, 
 as the pashà himself was ill, and we had no wish either of tra- 
 velling post, or of obtaining provisions for nothing from the pea- 
 sants, we declined an introduction to his Highness, the Caimacan, 
 although it was politely offered to us by his principal dragoman, 
 who spoke tolerably good Italian. The visit paid to the beys or 
 pashàs must, as most of the introductory calls made by foreigners in 
 England or France, be frigid and dull ; — " pothen erchetai ?" " pou 
 pas?" whence do you come? whither do you go? are almost the. 
 only questions put or answered. The visitor is placed on an ele- 
 gant couch : a negro brings him a small cup of coffee and some 
 sweetmeats, generally the kernels of the fir-apple, preserved with 
 much sugar. After this a pipe is offered, which, when finished, 
 terminates the mutually entertaining visit. Quitting the palace, the 
 visitor is pursued by a crowd of harpies — dragoman, cook, porter, 
 coffee-maker, pipe-bearer, all must have a bakshish or present, and 
 happy is the visitor, if he can escape their pursuit at the expense of 
 three or four Venetian zechins. 
 
 In the Morea there are two pashàs of fortified towns — Ali at 
 Nauplia, and Ismael at Coronea ; both are inferior to, and under 
 the jurisdiction of the pashà of Tripoìitzà, whose government extends 
 over the whole of the Morea. 
 
 Mantinea. — At the distance of about two hours and a half 
 ride, in a northerly direction from Tripoìitzà, by a dull and most 
 uninteresting road over the plain, you arrive at the ruins of this 
 celebrated city. The walls, gates, and towers, are still partly re- 
 maining ; ruins are scattered in all directions within the precinct, 
 about the middle of which is seen the site of an ancient theatre. 
 Mantinea now bears the name of Palceopoli. 
 
TEGE A 
 
 AND 
 
 THE BOUNDARY OF LACONIA. 
 
 COUNTRY NEAR TEGEA DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCIENT TOWN AUGUSTUS PAUSANIAs's 
 
 DEFENCE OF THAT CONQUEROR RUINS WELL ROAD TO MYSTRA KRIAVRIO — 
 
 TURKS — NAPOLEON — KRAVATA — WASHING — INHABITANTS OF THE MOUNTAINS — FIRST 
 VIEW OF MYSTRA AND LACONIA. 
 
 .A.T four in the afternoon we quitted Tripolitzà, and, traversing the 
 plain, proceeded to the site of Tegea, now called Peali. This plain 
 is still famous for its butter and cheese ; and, at this hour, the nu- 
 merous flocks had descended from the mountains, and were grazing 
 in the fields : the tinkling of bells, and the sounds of the bamboo 
 pipes, which the shepherds were playing, impressed on my mind the 
 propriety of continuing to the God of Fields the epithet of Tegean.* 
 
 In Tegea were formerly many fine buildings, and the first tem- 
 ple, says Pausanias, of the Peloponnesus, both as to size and deco- 
 ration : it was sacred to Minerva Alea, and Scopa of Paros was said 
 to have been the architect : the three Greek orders were used in its 
 construction : a basso-relievo on the front represented the chace of 
 the Calydonian boar : on the opposite side was sculptured the battle 
 of Telephus, and Achilles in the plain of Caycus. 
 
 In the war between Augustus and Antony, the Tegeans sided 
 with the latter ; their example was followed by all the other Arca- 
 dians, except the inhabitants of Mantinea. Augustus, whom Strabo 
 celebrates as having acted so generously towards the inhabitants of 
 Ilium, seems to have pursued here a line of conduct totally different ; 
 
 * Pan ovium custos, tua si tibi Maenala cune, 
 
 Adsis, ò Tegesee, favens : 
 
 Vihg. Georg. I. 17. 
 
TEGEA AND THE BOUNDARY OF LACONIA. 171 
 
 the statue of Minerva Alea, and the teeth of the Calydonian boar 
 (a treasure much venerated) were carried off to Rome. Pausanias, 
 in bis description of Greece, endeavours to justify the emperor by 
 arguments pretty similar to those which were brought forward to 
 defend the predatory inclinations of a later conqueror : — 
 
 " It appears," says he, " that Augustus was not the first to spoil 
 the conquered of the gifts and statues of the Gods ; but that he fol- 
 lowed the established customs. For when Troy was taken, and the 
 booty was divided among the Greeks, the wooden image of Jupiter 
 Herceus was given to Sthenelus, son of Capaneus : and many years 
 after, when the Dorians had begun to inhabit Sicily, Antiphemus, 
 the founder of Gela, having destroyed Omphacis, a small city of the 
 Cicanians, transported to Gela a statue, sculptured by Daedalus. 
 We know also that Xerxes, the son of Darius, king of the Persians, 
 besides all the things which he carried off from the Athenians, took 
 from Brauron the statue of Diana Brauronia : having also accused 
 the Milesians of allowing their line to be broken in the sea-fight 
 against the Athenians, he took the Apollo of bronze which was in 
 Branchidre, and which afterwards was restored to them by Seleucus. 
 At Argos there are the wooden image which is in the Temple of 
 Juno, and that which lies in the Temple of Apollo Licieus, both 
 taken from Tyrins. The Cyzicenians, after having forced the Pro- 
 connesians to become their fellow-citizens, took from Proconnesus 
 the statue of the Mother of Dindymene ; this is of gold, and its face, 
 instead of being of ivory, is made from sea-horses' teeth. The 
 Emperor Augustus did, therefore, that which from the most ancient 
 times had been customary, and allowed both by Greeks and bar- 
 barians." 
 
 On the site of Tegea nothing is now seen but a few heaps of 
 rubbish, and some broken columns of the Doric, Ionic, and Co- 
 rinthian orders. The fountain mentioned by Pausanias we could 
 not discover, but were obliged to refresh our horses at the well, 
 near which stands a very large capital, of the Doric order. A young 
 shepherd drew for us water in a pliable leathern bucket, which he 
 
 Z2 
 
172 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 carried on his back; an instrument both light and useful for the 
 pastor : the cold water was tossed into the hollowed trunk of a tree, 
 used to quench the thirst of the cattle. The modern village con- 
 tains a few very miserable huts, and a Greek chapel, the priest of 
 which has the largest house in this neighbourhood. 
 
 From Tegea we began ascending the mountain by a rough and 
 steep road, and, after travelling in the opposite glen some time, 
 arrived at the khan of Kriavrio, at which we intended passing the 
 night, as it was now dark, and the road rugged and difficult to 
 follow. We, however, found the only room or shed at the khan 
 already occupied by two Turkish women, who were travelling 
 towards Tripolitzà. We were consequently reduced to the neces- 
 sity either of continuing our journey all night, or existing in a 
 miserable stable, filled with vermin, and black with the smoke pro- 
 duced by the embers of a fire burning in the middle of the floor. 
 We preferred to continue our journey, after supping on an omelet 
 of eggs and goats' cheese, a dish much esteemed among the Greeks, 
 and certainly very palatable. 
 
 Round the fire were squatting a Turkish Agà, or gentleman, and 
 a fine negro, a Mohammedan freedman; the latter was just come 
 from Hydra, where he had heard that Buonaparte had escaped to 
 America : our opinion on the subject was anxiously asked, and this 
 produced a long conversation on the merits and demerits of the 
 conqueror, whom both Greeks and Turks allowed to have been a 
 fj.eyu.kvi v.s$ci\v\ (great head,) although their observations proved them 
 as ignorant of the character of Napoleon as any British peasant 
 may be of the history of Mahomet the Second. As we were dis- 
 cussing warlike subjects, the Agà, who had been in a campaign 
 against the Russians, could not resist the opportunity of fighting his 
 battles over again : he amused us with a history of his adventures, 
 and an account of his being taken prisoner, in a manner rather 
 ludicrous : the detail of the circumstances excited to laughter poor 
 George, who, yielding to the irritability of his nerves, burst into a 
 loud laugh ; — this insult the Turk could not brook, but rising from 
 
TEGEA AND THE BOUNDARY OP LACONIA. 173 
 
 his carpet with an agility which I before could not have suspected 
 him to possess, his eyes sparkling with rage, and his lip quivering 
 with anger, he prepared to inflict summary vengeance on the miser- 
 able Giaour : our poor servant would in all probability have suffered 
 for his ill-timed merriment, had we not rushed to his assistance : the 
 Turk immediately started back, and, eying us a few seconds with 
 penetrating attention, returned to his rug, and continued his con- 
 versation as if nothing had happened. Such an example of the 
 power of man over his passions I never recollect witnessing ; it 
 would have honoured a Socrates. 
 
 We started at midnight from Kriavrio, and re-commenced our 
 journey on a bad road, in many places carried upon the borders of 
 deep precipices, or over glens, where we more than once lost our 
 way. I regretted much not having seen the beautiful source of the 
 Alpheus, one of the most interesting of the objects in the Morea ; 
 it is found on this road, at a place called Saranda Potami, "the 
 ^ forty streams." Pausanias informs us that near it was erected a 
 temple to the mother of the Gods : this edifice was without a roof, 
 and was adorned with two lions of marble. It was supposed that the 
 Alpheus and Eurotas united their streams near this place, and 
 flowed together the distance of twenty stadia ; that then, both 
 sinking in the ground, one of them (the Eurotas) re-appeared in 
 Laconia, and the Alpheus at Pege, in the district of Megalopolis. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning we reached Kravata, the second 
 khan on the road from Tripolitzà : here, after much trouble and 
 noise with the khanjee (who at first took us for robbers, and was 
 going to fire on us,) we at length got under a small roof, heated in 
 the same manner as the stable at Kriavrio : fatigue rendered us 
 much less nice in the choice of a sleeping places our blankets and 
 capottes were spread on the floor: we stretched our weary limbs 
 before the fire, and enjoyed a few hours of most delightful repose. 
 
 Early in the morning our abode was filled with peasants, who 
 squatted themselves down on the ground near the fire, and examined 
 us with a savage attention : they were not a little surprised to see us 
 
174 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 wash and perform the operations of a morning toilet ; I heard 
 several times the word Turzicos, " Turk," pronounced with some 
 emphasis by the by-standers, as though cleanliness could not reckon 
 among the practices of a Christian. The English traveller is no- 
 where in Greece regarded as a Christian, by either Turk or Greek, 
 I mean by the uneducated of either nation ; this proceeds, I should 
 suppose, from their not being seen to make the sign of the cross, a 
 gesture which alone, in these countries, distinguishes the Christian 
 from the infidel, and is much used by the peasants, who cannot be 
 prevailed on to pass even a ruined chapel without crossing them- 
 selves several times. 
 
 The inhabitants of these mountains are by some supposed to be 
 relics of the ancient Spartan blood ; they are barbarous, but inde- 
 pendent, and pay neither kharatch nor tithes ; their habitations are 
 composed of a i'ew stakes driven into the ground, and covered with 
 horse-hair ; their dress is the same as that of the other Greek pea- 
 sants, but the locks of hair flowing on their shoulders proclaim their 
 freedom from Turkish despotism ; their language is the Greek, and 
 approaches much more to the Doric dialect than that spoken in 
 Argolis ; many of them gain a scanty livelihood by making charcoal 
 on the sides of the mountains, and selling it at Tripolitzà and 
 Mystra. 
 
 From Kravata we continued our journey over a rugged and 
 mountainous road, through a country delightfully wooded, and 
 watered by numerous springs, issuing from rocks of Schistus, and 
 uniting to form the Eurotas. 
 
 At Bourla, a khan on the road side, begins the descent into the 
 territory of Lacedemon : a most enchanting view is obtained of the 
 plain, watered by the winding Eurotas, and bounded by the chain 
 of Taygetus, on the sides of which, surrounded with orchards of 
 mulberry trees, is seen the beautiful town of Mystra, the modern 
 representative both of Sparta and of Amyclse ; and for a long time 
 esteemed the capital of the Morea. 
 
MYSTRA. 
 
 THE CASTLE — RUSSIAN INVASION OF THE MOREA — ROUT OF THE MAINIOTES CRUEI, 
 
 TREATMENT OF THE INHABITANTS OF MYSTRA — DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN — TURKISH 
 PORTS GOVERNMENT OF THE TOWN — CHURCH ROMAIC ARCHITECTURE TALL CY- 
 PRESS — DOGS OF TAYGBTUS MULBERRY TREES WANT OF PHYSICIANS — TURKISH 
 
 WEDDING. 
 
 1 HE Castle of Mystra, now in ruins, appears well placed for 
 defence, although not impregnable. It is built like most of the 
 Venetian forts, with a wall surrounding it at some distance. Since 
 the year 1463, when this town was conquered by Mahomet the 
 Second, it has often suffered from contending armies ; even now its 
 greatest part is in ruins, having been destroyed in the year 1770, 
 during the invasion of the Peloponnesus by the Russians ; an in- 
 vasion which demonstrated sufficiently the absurdity of relying on 
 the promises of the modern Greeks, who, although bold in abusing 
 their enslavers, have repeatedly shewn themselves the greatest of 
 cowards when opposed to the Turks. 
 
 In the war just alluded to, the Russians had formed the design 
 of taking possession of the Peloponnesus : for this purpose some 
 Russian officers were sent among the Mainotes, or highlanders of 
 Taygetus ; a people who, notwithstanding the high character for 
 courage which they have obtained, seem in reality nothing more 
 than a band of barbarous pirates and robbers ; like the wandering 
 Morlaques, deriving their origin from the irruptions of the Sclavo- 
 nians, and, doubtless, not as it has been pretended, from the Eleu- 
 theroi Lacones. These were marshalled, and divided in two legions, 
 pompously termed the Eastern and Western Legions of Sparta : 
 assisted by the fleet of Count Orlow, who occupied the Turkish 
 garrisons on the coast, they advanced through Arcadia to Patrass, 
 
176 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 and across Taygetus to Mystra, making their march a general scene 
 of plunder and bloodshed. Until they arrived at Tripolitzà, the 
 barbarous hordes experienced little or no resistance ; but during the 
 blockade of this last place, they were unexpectedly attacked by a 
 body of Albanian horsemen, who, having crossed the Isthmus and 
 the Argive plain, fell on the besiegers, and relieved the capital. 
 Although fifty times stronger than their enemies, these pretended 
 descendants of the Spartans fled precipitately, abandoning their 
 Russian officers, who defended themselves with obstinacy, and, to a 
 man, were cut to pieces. The Albanian cavalry followed the routed 
 army to their mountains, where the rugged defiles hindered them 
 from continuing the pursuit. Irritated at not having been able to 
 wreak their vengeance on the Mainiotes, they entered Mystra, and, 
 under pretext that the people had intended to join the Russians, 
 fired the buildings, and put to the sword two thousand of the unfor- 
 tunate inhabitants. 
 
 Mystra now contains about five hundred houses, two jammis, a 
 tolerably good bazar, and a post. By posts in Greece are meant, a 
 certain number of horses, kept at the public expense, to convey the 
 despatches of government, and to accommodate travellers who are 
 provided with a sultan's firman and the houyourdou of the pashà : 
 these, as I have before observed to you, can by this means procure 
 horses gratis ; although in such cases the postillion (sourgi) is not 
 unfrequently very clamorous for a large hdkshish, a Turkish word, 
 corresponding to the buona mancia of the Italians. He rides behind 
 the traveller, and by flogging the horses, keeps them constantly at 
 full speed, galloping over the rough roads with terrific rapidity. 
 
 The town is governed by a bey and primato. Its situation is 
 most enchanting : from all parts you have a view of the fertile valley, 
 watered by the Eurotas and bounded by craggy mountains, whence 
 gush numerous springs, adding to the comfort of the inhabitants, 
 and to the wild beauty of the scene. The river Pantilimona runs 
 through the town : near its source is shewn a fountain, with an ele- 
 gant basso-relievo ; and a little above, towards the citadel, is also 
 
MYSTRA. 177 
 
 seen a stone vase, of white marble, now used as a trough under a 
 fountain ; it is covered with basso-relievos : the front represents a 
 bacchanalian scene ; the back and two sides are adorned with the 
 figure of a winged lion, with a human head. 
 
 The finest church of the Greek persuasion formerly stood at 
 Mystra : it was dedicated to the Virgin, (I believe so, at least,) and 
 was placed just below the walls of the citadel. It is now in ruins : 
 we saw under it extensive catacombs (for the Greeks always bury in 
 the churches;) on all sides were scattered pieces of coloured plaster, 
 on which were once painted the images of many holy men. The 
 architecture of this temple was in that barbarous style which has 
 pervaded Greece since the times of Justinian, and has been imitated 
 by the Turks in their mosques. Small domes, slender and dispro- 
 portionate columns, coloured walls, and ugly arches, disgust the eye 
 accustomed to the simple, but noble and majestic buildings of the 
 ancients. 
 
 At about an hour's walk from the town, up the mountain, is seen 
 an enormous cypress ; six tall men, uniting their hands, can with 
 difficulty clasp its trunk. In the neighbourhood of Taygetus is still 
 found an excellent breed of dogs. They are of the species of the 
 greyhound ; but are not so elegantly shaped. They are remarkably 
 swift, and have an excellent nose. I was informed that they not 
 unfrequently hunt alone, and bring home to their owners the fruits 
 of their chace. 
 
 Mystra is surrounded by orchards of mulberry-trees — a sign that 
 much silk is cultivated here : indeed, this commodity constitutes 
 almost the only commerce of the town. At the time we were here 
 silk sold at fifty piasters the ocha — an enormous price, but not sur- 
 prising, as the heat of the season had been extremely injurious to 
 the worms. 
 
 The inhabitants of this charming town treat the traveller with 
 well-meant respect, but are too prone to annoy him with their wild 
 curiosity. The want of a physician seems to be severely felt among 
 these poor people ; we were repeatedly stopped by persons who 
 
 A a 
 
178 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 anxiously enquired whether there was a medical man in our party. 
 We lodged at the house of a Greek merchant, Demetrius Manousaci: 
 he has given to his eldest son the name of Lycurgus, not, as you 
 may at first suppose, in remembrance of past times — I doubt much 
 whether he even knows of what country that lawgiver was — but to 
 please his frequent classical visitors, who would be ashamed to quit 
 the house without placing a zechin in the hands of Lycurgua's 
 namesake. 
 
 One evening, during our stay here, we witnessed the ceremony 
 of a Turkish wedding. The bridegroom was conducted to the house 
 of the bride, preceded by numbers of persons bearing torches, and 
 chaunting Arabic verses : as soon as he had entered the house they 
 retired ; the door was closed, and consequently we saw no more of 
 the ceremony. We were, however, informed that nothing more 
 now remained to be done, but for the bridegroom to see the face of 
 his wife in a looking-glass, and to kick down before her a basin of 
 water, placed there for the purpose of shewing the future authority 
 of the husband over his partner ; this, however, I think, is only the 
 fabrication of some curious and ignorant Greek's brain. 
 
AMYCL^). 
 
 MESO CHORA — RATA CHORA — PORTALI— COFFEE-HOUSE — INSCRIPTION — SCLAVOCHORIO 
 — AMYCL^E — TEMPLE OF APOLLO — TUMULUS — EUROTAS — VALE OF LACONIA GOVERN- 
 MENT OF MAINA DESCRIPTION OF THE MAINIOTE MOUNTAINEERS— THE MAINIOTES 
 
 ARE PROBABLY OF SCLAVONIAN ORIGIN. 
 
 AFTER staying several days at Mystra, we prepared to continue 
 our journey homewards. We had intended to visit the Braccio di 
 Maina ; but as that country was reported to be more than usually 
 infested with robbers, and as we could find neither horses nor guides 
 to convey us through it, we were obliged to alter our plans accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 Quitting Mystra, we took the road leading towards the Eurotas : 
 we passed the Meso Chora, and Kata Chora, two parts of the town, 
 and arrived at Portali, a charming village, situate at the foot of 
 Taygetus : on the right is a most picturesque fountain, rushing, cold 
 as ice, from the rock, and filling a large basin shaded by plane- 
 trees. The Turks have built here a coffee-house, for which purpose 
 such spots as these are generally chosen. A low wooden platform 
 is erected round the trunk of the largest tree, and covered with 
 mats : on these the coffee-drinkers, leaving their papouches or slip- 
 pers on the ground, lounge with proverbial indolence. Although 
 the sun had not yet risen when we passed through Portali, we found 
 many Turks reclining near the fountain, with their long pipes in 
 their mouths. They greeted and welcomed us, laying their hands 
 on their bosoms, and pronouncing the saldm. One of them, vene- 
 rable by a long snow-white beard, led me some distance from the 
 fountain, under pretence of shewing me an inscription : when we 
 came to the stone which formed part of a wall, I found an inscrip- 
 tion cut in the half Gothic and half Hellenic character used in the 
 
 Aa2 
 
180 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Romaic ; it was in honour of a St. Demetrius ; and my guide was 
 not a little surprised to find that I did not regard it as sufficiently 
 interesting to be worth the trouble of taking a copy. 
 
 From Portali we proceeded to Sclavochorio, " the village of the 
 slaves." The road all along is intersected with rivulets flowing 
 towards the Eurotas : the scenery is particularly romantic, uniting, 
 as it were, the characteristic beauties of the Levant, and those of 
 the Alpine countries. At the bottom of the range of Taygetus are 
 seen gardens, planted with oranges, lemons, and pomegranates ; 
 while the mountains which skirt the road offer to the eye every gra- 
 dation of climate, up to that of the fir, which alone clings to the 
 barren tops of the rock, and shields from the mountain tempest 
 many small white chapels, erected by the highlanders in places 
 almost inaccessible. 
 
 Sclavochorio was once a considerable village : it contains many 
 ruined churches, in the walls of which are still seen some remains of 
 fractured columns; an inscription is also shewn, containing the 
 word Amycls. This village was erected on the site of that cele- 
 brated Laconian city. The neighbouring country is both agreeable 
 and fertile : olives are produced here in abundance, and many mul- 
 berry-trees are cultivated with great care and attention : near the 
 village is a small stream, probably the Tiasus ; some blocks of stone 
 on its borders, near a ford, point out, perhaps, the site of the Tem- 
 ple of the Graces, mentioned as having stood on its side : another 
 rivulet, flowing below Amyclae, and not far from the present village, 
 was probably the Phliassas. 
 
 Amyclae was the birth-place of Castor and Pollux : a very cele- 
 brated temple was erected within its precincts, in honour of Apollo, 
 hence called Amyclaeus : it was the resort of many devotees, who 
 came hither to make their offerings to the God. 
 
 From Sclavochorio we rode towards the Eurotas, now bordered 
 by vast fields of maize, the bright tops of which, yielding to the 
 breeze, made the plain appear like a sea of gold. On the border 
 of the river was a tumulus ; it had lately been opened by some of 
 
AMYCLÌE. 181 
 
 the inhabitants. Before we arrived the excavation had been refilled, 
 and consequently we could not examine the objects which had been 
 discovered. According to the accounts given to us by the persons 
 who were present when it was opened, it would seem that five 
 marble coffins were found six feet below the surface : the contents 
 of these had not yet been determined, but such is the idea formed 
 by the inhabitants of their value, that they guard the treasure day 
 and night. It was offered to us for twenty thousand dollars. The 
 plain of Lacedemon was represented as containing many hillocks, 
 raised by the hands of men, in honour of the principal chiefs of the 
 nation. 
 
 From the tumulus we had a fine view of the Eurotas, which is 
 here about as broad as the Cherwell at Oxford: it is crossed in 
 winter by an elegantly situated bridge ; in summer it is fordable : 
 its borders still produce abundance of rushes, and bowers of bay are 
 seen along its course. We were told that sugar-canes grow wild 
 near its mouth, and that many water-birds frequent its banks in 
 winter. 
 
 The valley, watered by the Eurotas, is about forty miles in 
 length, and in its greatest breadth, six. Towards the east it is 
 washed by the sea ; on the other sides it can be approached only by 
 narrow and dangerous defiles : the range of Vlachia (Menelaion) 
 bounds it on the north ; Penta Daktula (Taygetus) offers, on the 
 south, an impassable barrier. It is divided into four districts — 
 Tzaconia, Sparta, Bardounia, Maina : it appears to be the most 
 populous and fertile province of the Peloponnesus. 
 
 The greater part of this country is inhabited by lawless tribes, 
 whose only support seems to be derived from plunder by sea and 
 land. Bardounia and Maina are governed by separate chiefs, who, 
 although Christians, are termed beys : that of Bardounia dwells at a 
 village called Potamia ; Citreis, a sea-port, is the town inhabited by 
 the governor of Maina. When we were here, the bey of Bardounia 
 had lately died, and the sword had not yet determined who was to 
 rule the savage tribe : Mystra was in consternation, and, as I before 
 
182 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 observed, we found no person willing to guide us through the coun- 
 try. The bey of Maina was called Petros (Peter :) his brother acted 
 as his viceroy at Marathonisi, near the mouth of the Eurotas. 
 
 It seems that the independence of this people is not so great as 
 generally has been imagined; two of Petros's sons are kept at Con- 
 stantinople, as guarantees of the future good conduct of his sub- 
 jects. This measure has, it is said, been resorted to by the porte to 
 diminish, in some measure, the number of piracies and robberies 
 committed by the Mainiotes. The young hostages may likewise 
 serve as a security for the payment of the kharatch. 
 
 We saw at Mystra several of the Mainiote mountaineers : they 
 were tall, and in physiognomy perfectly similar to the Albanians. 
 Their heads were close-shaved, except on the crown, the long lock 
 of which was covered with a skull cap. A red silk jacket, embroi- 
 dered with gold ; a belt, containing two pistols and a dagger ; black 
 loose drawers ; coarse white European stockings and shoes, consti- 
 tute their dress, which is by far the most elegant of any I saw in 
 Greece. A long gun, of Venetian manufacture, is their constant 
 companion, and they are said never to miss their aim. 
 
 From their manners, their features, and the names of many of 
 the neighbouring places, I should be tempted to regard them as 
 proceeding from Sclavonian blood : many travellers pretend, how- 
 ever, to have discovered in these barbarous hordes traces of a 
 Spartan origin. 
 
S PARTA. 
 
 Ancient city — ruins — theatre — peasants — harvest — road along the eurotas; 
 
 IN the ancient city the forum is represented as being the most re- 
 markable place : in this were placed the curia of the senate, and the 
 halls of the Ephori, with several temples, and the celebrated portico, 
 erected from the spoils of the Persians. Several streets led thence 
 through the town, and they were adorned with the monuments of 
 the Gods, and of ancient heroes. In the western part of the city 
 was a theatre, of white marble, opposite to which were the monu- 
 ments of Pausanias, who commanded at Platea, and of Leonidas; 
 The town was built on several eminences, the highest of which was 
 called the citadel : the precinct of this citadel was sufficiently exten- 
 sive to contain many monuments and temples. The Platanista was 
 a place so called from the number of planes which surrounded it : it 
 was enclosed by an euripos, like an island in the sea, and it was 
 entered by two opposite bridges, adorned with the statues of Her- 
 cules and Lycurgus. It was in the Platanista that the combats 
 between the Spartan youths took place : in these fights they attacked 
 one another with their hands, feet, and teeth, and endeavoured to 
 toss their rivals into the water. 
 
 The ruins of Sparta are now, like many others in Greece, dis- 
 tinguished only by the general denomination of " Palaio Chorio;" 
 they are situated on the western side of the Eurotas, and are very 
 extensive. We easily distinguished the theatre, which must have 
 been a most magnificent edifice : we saw also the broad hill on 
 which stood the citadel. We were shewn likewise a bridge of one 
 arch, made of large uncemented stones : it crosses the Tiasus, and, 
 to judge from its shape, must be very ancient : it is situated near 
 
184 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 a small Greek chapel, sacred to "Agios Giorgios." Some square 
 ruins of walls, constructed from very massy stones, are also seen in 
 different parts. 
 
 I regretted much not having a better guide : the person who 
 conducted us, a Bardouniote, seemed completely ignorant of the 
 place : our questions were answered in barbarous accents, which, by 
 their roughness at least, called to the memory the language of the 
 Dorians. The common answer to every question is, ixevro go, 
 know I ? (f£evpu eyu ;) 
 
 The peasantry near the Eurotas are evidently much less civilized 
 than those of the northern parts of the Morea ; they greet, however, 
 the travellers, whom curiosity leads to cross their lands, with a wel- 
 come which we were told proceeded not from the lips only : the 
 hand is placed on the heart, and the words kale er chetai, offendi moti, 
 " welcome sir," are pronounced with the smile of hospitality. 
 Some were harvesting the rice in the marshes, near the banks of the 
 Eurotas ; while, on the citadel of ancient Sparta, others were beat- 
 ing out the maize: for this purpose twelve horses were fastened 
 abreast, and driven circularly round a post, about which the ears 
 had been scattered. 
 
 From Sparta we took the road along the river leading into 
 Arcadia : Ave passed the night at a khan not very distant, where we 
 slept most quietly and safely, although said to be surrounded with 
 bands of Mainiote robbers. 
 
MEGALOPOLIS. 
 
 ROAD TO LONDARI — ARBUTES AND WILD PEARS — LONDARl JOURNEY TO SCINANO — 
 
 MISERABLE LODGING — GREEK SERVICE — CURIOUS CUSTOM OF THE WOMEN — STU- 
 PIDITY OF THE INHABITANTS — RUINS OF MEGALOPOLIS — PILFERING — DEPARTURE. 
 
 THE khan was called Keiras Kopanikiou : it was situated close to 
 the Eri or Eurotas. We quitted it early in the morning, and tra- 
 velled towards Londari, through a most beautiful country ; for the 
 first hour keeping the river on our right, but afterwards entering 
 among the mountains, which at every turn offer sublime prospects. 
 Large groves of wild pear trees and arbutes are seen near the road : 
 the fruit of each serves to feed the cattle, and often to allay the 
 hunger of the peasants, when poverty will not allow them to obtain 
 their usual miserable pittance of salted olives and curds. The 
 arbutes, whose large red fruit contrasts delightfully with the green 
 foliage, are called by the Greeks Mamocioula : this word is an evi- 
 dent corruption of their ancient name M^ainvKov. 
 
 Remains of walls and other antiquities are seen on this road, 
 near the Eurotas ; they are, probably, ruins of some of the ancient 
 cities of Laconia, the names of which are not furnished by the tra- 
 dition of the inhabitants, or even yet supplied by the imagination of 
 antiquaries. Several streams are likewise crossed, which convey 
 their waters to the Eurotas. We stopped on the border of one of 
 these rivulets, near the massy foundation of some building, appa- 
 rently a temple. A fire was lighted, and, by means of our little 
 kitchen apparatus, coffee was prepared, and we made a most de- 
 lightful and refreshing meal in the solitary wilds of Arcadia. At 
 three o'clock we arrived at Londari, a small town, situated in the 
 mountains, with whose dark verdure its white houses and tall minaret 
 contrast in a manner beautifully picturesque. The houses of this small 
 
 Bb 
 
186 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 town are built, as those of Corinth, in a straggling manner, and not 
 regularly divided into streets and squares : a mosque and a small 
 bazar render it the principal town between Mystra and Patrass. It 
 was for a long time regarded as standing on the site of Megalopolis, 
 and as such it has been described by several Venetian topographers, 
 with what reason it would be difficult to divine, particularly as no 
 river is found near Londari. 
 
 From this place we continued our journey on towards Scinano, 
 near which are seen the vast ruins of Megalopolis. The weather, 
 which till now had favoured our journey (so much so, indeed, 
 that from Trieste Ave had rain but once,) now threatened to 
 impede our further progress : the water fell in torrents ; forked 
 streams of lightning illumined the horizon ; while the loud peals 
 of thunder, rolling over these wild lands, threatened destruction to 
 the few scattered inhabitants. The horses were frightened, and it 
 was with the utmost difficulty we could make them advance; at 
 every step their feet slipped on the clayey soil. 
 
 It was late when we arrived at Scinàno, anxious to find a shelter 
 for the night, as it threatened to be so stormy. The behaviour of the 
 inhabitants here gave us no very high opinion of Arcadian hospitality; 
 not one would receive us under his roof. After having galloped about 
 in vain from hut to hut, pursued by a pack of yelling mastiffs, we at 
 length, partly by threats, and partly by intreaties, obtained a lodg- 
 ing at the house of the village papa, or priest. Excepting the 
 pyrgo, or tower, a Turkish country house in the village, it was the 
 best and the largest of the houses ; but we found it a most miserable 
 and dirty hovel. In one corner of a long dark apartment, without a 
 chimney, and the only one in the house, were seen six Greek 
 labourers, squatting round a wood fire, the smoke of which added 
 to the already jetty blackness of the roof: from the joists hung many 
 skins, now exhaling an insupportable smell, and drying to make 
 wine-casks. The only articles of furniture were a brass pot and a 
 fire-shovel ; with this latter the mistress of the house was scraping 
 the embers from the top of a maize cake, which was cooking under 
 
MEGALOPOLIS. 
 
 187 
 
 the ashes, and, after our arrival, was placed on the floor, and 
 divided, steaming and doughy, among the men only ; for here, as 
 among the ancients, the females eat separately. In this place we 
 spread our beds, and passed a restless night, almost devoured by 
 vermin of different descriptions, and disturbed by the snoring of 
 seven or eight Arcadian peasants, who were strewed about on the 
 floor in all parts of the room, the common dormitory of the cattle 
 and the family. 
 
 On the following morning we went to see the service performed 
 in a miserable church adjoining the hut. As the Greeks never eat, 
 drink, or even take a pinch of snuff before their Sunday devotions 
 are completed, mass is always said as soon as it is light ; when 
 finished, they proceed without scruple to their usual labours. The 
 congregation was assembled by a tinkling noise, which we took at 
 first to be that of a bell ; we were, however, soon convinced of our 
 mistake by seeing the papa himself standing on a dunghill in the 
 middle of his village, and producing the sound by striking with a 
 hammer the blade of an iron adze. The church was similar to all 
 those in Greece, the walls of which are generally decorated with 
 barbarously uncouth representations of saints, dressed in gaudy 
 colours : among these the figure of the Virgin or Panagia, of Christ, 
 and of the guardian Saint, are always most conspicuous. After 
 these comes St. George, mounted on his steed, and in the act of 
 spearing the dragon, while an urchin, perched on the crupper 
 of the saddle, is represented holding the sacred phial. Above these 
 are painted the martyrdoms of many holy men, exhibiting all the 
 horrors red and black, daubed on by a Greek brush, can pourtray. 
 
 The devotion of these poor people seems to consist only in 
 making the sign of the cross, and repeating, at certain periods of 
 the service, the words kyrie eleison. The smoke of incense rises in 
 volumes to the roof of the church. During the prayers many offerings 
 were made to the priest of boiled Turkey wheat : tapers were lighted in 
 honour of the guardian saints, the pictures of whom received a most 
 loving kiss from each of the devotees at his entrance and departure. 
 
 Bb2 
 
188 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 I was not a little surprised at a scene which took place just as the 
 gospel was about to be read : the women approached the altar, be- 
 fore which they laid some long bundles which they constantly car- 
 ried tied on their shoulders with two cords, and which we had 
 imagined contained some household or agricultural instruments: 
 the cries of infants proved to us our mistake ; they were a sort of 
 leathern portable cradles, in which the children were bound, and 
 carried with fond care by their mothers. It is throughout Greece 
 the custom, in village churches, to bring the young children to the 
 altar, in order that the gospel may be read over them. 
 
 Of the abilities of the ancient Megalopolitans, the present 
 Scinaniotes offer by no means a favourable specimen : in the whole 
 village not one person could be found who knew the roads for four 
 miles round, and it was with the utmost difficulty we could in the 
 evening procure a guide on to Mavromati, the site of ancient 
 Messene. The whole mental faculties of the present inhabitants are 
 apparently bent towards cheating and plundering their neighbours, 
 but more particularly any unfortunate tourist who may fall into their 
 hands. Not a field of maize, or a plot of vineyard is seen unpro- 
 vided with a raised scaffold, on which, sheltered by a roof of green 
 boughs, and armed with a long Venetian musket, an individual is 
 stationed, to preserve the crop from the purloinings of the peasants. 
 A pocket compass, which had been of the greatest use to us, during 
 our stay fell a victim to this pilfering propensity. The vanity of 
 our servant George had likewise to regret the loss of his copper ink- 
 stand, which he was wont to wear proudly displayed in his girdle. 
 The inkstands used in the east consist of a long metal case, of a 
 square or octogonal shape, at the end of which is placed a small box 
 of the same material, in which the ink is kept. Pens, seal, sealing- 
 wax, and penknife, are contained in this case, which is worn like a 
 poniard in the belt, and distinguishes those who have learnt to 
 write from the more ignorant. 
 
 Near the door of the church are seen some fragments of fluted 
 columns, of white marble, and some antique sepulchral stones;, 
 
MEGALOPOLIS. 189 
 
 known by the usual brief, but impressive inscription on monuments 
 of that nature — XAIPE : there is also seen a broken inscription, partly 
 Latin, and partly Greek, alluding to a bridge erected by one of the 
 Roman emperors. Further on, towards the north, are seen the 
 ruins of the ancient city, consisting only of loose stones, heaped 
 upon both sides of the Helisson. On one of the banks are seen the 
 remains of a theatre excavated on an eminence, and having before 
 it a kind of platform : in the bed of the river are found some frag- 
 ments of pillars and the piers of a bridge. On the opposite side are 
 seen several foundations of old walls, built of a rough calcarious 
 stone, but by no means interesting to him who has seen the glorious 
 ruins of Athens. 
 
 During our stay it constantly rained; this circumstance hin- 
 dered us from examining the ruins so much, perhaps, as we should 
 otherwise have done. The miserable filth of the hovel in which we 
 lodged made us not reluctant to quit this classical spot for some 
 other, where we should not be so much maltreated by the inha- 
 bitants and by the vermin. 
 
MAVROMATI (MESSENE.) 
 
 ALPHEUS MAKRYPLAIA TERRITORY OF MESSENIA KHAN VALE OF MESSENIA — A 
 
 RICH AGA — INDIAN FIG-TREES — KALAMATA — ASSASSINATION OF TELECLUS — VOUR- 
 
 KANO MONASTERY — DESCRIPTION OF A GREEK CONVENT — LITERATURE RUINS OF 
 
 MESSENE MOUNT ITHOME VILLAGE OF MAVROMATI FOUNTAIN — RETURN TO 
 
 VOURKANO — PAUSANIAS'S DESCRIPTION OF MESSENE. 
 
 XN the afternoon we left this inhospitable place, and prepared to 
 continue our journey towards the Messenian territory. The entrance 
 to this part of the Peloponnesus is by a most romantic passage, 
 called Makryplaia. 
 
 We crossed the Alpheus, which, although generally called the 
 Rouphia, here bears the name of Megalo Potamos (large river.) 
 The stream was rapid and deep, and we were a long time crossing 
 it with our baggage : our guides, who generally followed us on foot, 
 but crossed the fords on the cruppers of the horses, were thrown 
 into the torrent, and escaped with difficulty, covered with mud and 
 dripping with water. 
 
 On the opposite bank was encamped a body of itinerant distillers ; 
 this being the season of the vintage, they wandered from district to 
 district, offering their services to extract the favourite rachy of the 
 Greeks from the wine-lees. 
 
 The Makryplaia road is very bad, and, indeed, infinitely worse 
 than those who are accustomed to be whirled over the English 
 causeways can imagine : the scenery is most beautiful and romantic. 
 On the left rolls a torrent, on the opposite border of which, high 
 among the forests, is seen the village of Londari : as the road ad- 
 vances the precipice gradually increases in depth, till at length the 
 eye seeks in vain to reach its bottom : the sound of the rushing 
 waters is heard at an awful distance as the traveller advances, trem- 
 
MAVROMATI. 191 
 
 bling and giddy. On both sides forests of lofty oak veil the moun- 
 tain-side ; but so sadly does Turkish supineness neglect these trea- 
 sures, that the finest trunks are seen decaying on the ground, and 
 repeatedly impeding the way. The bark of the oak is a valuable 
 article of exportation, whence the peninsula derives great part of 
 her support. 
 
 We were struck with the similarity which this pass, in many 
 respects, bears to that of the Gruyers in Savoy. 
 
 After scrambling some hours over this road, we arrived at the 
 derveni, or guard-house, one of which is erected in all the passes of 
 the Turkish empire. Here the strait begins to open, and one sees, 
 in the distance, the territory of Messenia, bounded by the Gulf of 
 Coronea : numerous mountains surround the vale, above which, 
 rising high and conspicuous, is Ithome, now called Vourkano : be- 
 hind stand the ruins of the once celebrated capital of Messenia. 
 Thither we should now have impatiently hastened, had not night 
 warned us that we had already proceeded sufficiently far ; we, there- 
 fore, stopped at an adjacent khan, and passed a very comfortable 
 night. 
 
 The Grecian khans are for the most part built in the shape of a 
 quadrangle, in the middle of which is a well : the entrance is by an 
 arched gateway : stables occupy the ground floor all around, above 
 which is built a projecting platform, of wood, to which lead two or 
 three stair-cases, erected on the outside. The different rooms of the 
 first story open upon the platform : these rooms are used for the 
 accommodation of travellers and the warehousing of merchandise : 
 they are unfurnished ; for every traveller carries with him his rug 
 and necessary utensils. The architecture of the inns in Italy and 
 the south of France is very similar to that of the Turkish khans. 
 
 The keeper of the khan is called khangee — a word which all new 
 comers vociferate as they enter the yard, answering to the English 
 ostler. The khangee is always provided with uncooked provisions, 
 which Jie sells to the traveller at a moderate price ; were he to be 
 
192 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 caught over-reaching, his ears would .soon be nailed as an ornament 
 to the gateway. 
 
 In the Morea khans are by far the most eligible Lodgings, 
 whether quiet, cleanliness, or comfort be considered : the charges 
 can bear no comparison ; one piaster abundantly satisfies the klian- 
 keeper for lodging, and fuel if wanted; whereas in the dirtiest of huts, 
 for a corner in the only room it contains, hardly any sum will be 
 found sufficient to satisfy the rapacious owner. Add also, that in 
 no other places can provisions be procured more cheaply, and with 
 less difficulty; for elsewhere, if indeed they are not absolutely re- 
 fused, the peasant never fails to ask an incredibly exorbitant price. 
 
 The sun had not yet risen in this sequestered spot when we 
 quitted our resting-place to pursue our journey onwards and enjoy 
 the beauties of the morning at the first dawn of light. Before our 
 departure we were obliged to procure two fresh horses for the 
 remainder of our expedition, and another attendant, a sprightly and 
 intelligent Greek. The other poor animals, lame and completely 
 jaded, were obliged, with their disconsolate driver, to find their way 
 back to Argos. 
 
 From the khan the road winds in a deep descent, and, after 
 crossing a river, enters a valley, the approach to which is most 
 strikingly beautiful : it is surrounded by lofty mountains, forming, 
 as it were, the walls of an immense ancient theatre, having the sea 
 for proscenium. Immediately after passing the river before men- 
 tioned, both sides of the road are seen strewed with stones ; these, 
 perhaps, indicate the site of some ancient town, though I know of 
 none situated here. We met at this place a Turkish Agii, travelling 
 towards Mystra; he was followed by three servants, carrying his 
 long pipe and other utensils : a long furry mantle, a large snow- 
 white turban, and a dark beard falling on his chest, gave to him an 
 indescribable air of superiority : he was mounted on a beautiful 
 Arabian steed. The rich Moslem stopped to salute us, and kindly 
 offered to fill our pipes from his own tobacco bag. In the valley 
 
MAVROMATI. 193 
 
 are built numerous villages. These, being surrounded with lofty 
 impenetrable barriers of prickly Indian fig-trees, bear an appearance 
 quite novel and extraordinary : those trees thrive extremely well, 
 and their fruit forms a principal article of food for the inhabitants. 
 The modern Messenians find these fences very useful, as they can 
 be penetrated neither by man nor beast, defending them much 
 more effectually from depredation than the herds of barking mastiffs 
 which infest the other villages. 
 
 The principal river which waters this vale is crossed at a mill ; it 
 was probably the Pamisos, at the sources of which infants were 
 cured : it is now called Mavrozume, or Mavrozumena (black 
 broth:) it flows down to the town of Kalamata, and thence to 
 the sea. 
 
 Kalamata is a small modern town, and the place whence travel- 
 lers usually visit the ruins of Messene : it is famous for its silk and 
 excellent dried figs, which are strung in long chaplets on rushes, 
 and exported to different parts of Greece. Pausanias mentions that 
 there was in the Messenian plain a castle, called Kalame, not far 
 from Thuriae, and close to the village of Limnse, in which the assas- 
 sination of Teleclus, king of Sparta, is said to have been committed. 
 This murder first excited the implacable hatred which for many cen- 
 turies existed between the Messenians and Spartans, and caused 
 innumerable battles, by which this beautiful land was more than 
 once overflowed with the blood of the brave : its cause has not 
 rightly been determined. Some pretend that the Messenians offered 
 violence to some Spartan virgins, who had assembled in a temple 
 common to both territories ; and that in their defence Teleclus was 
 slain : others relate that Teleclus, in the intention of way-laying 
 some of the inhabitants, came with a chosen band, disguised as 
 females, and concealing arms under their robes : the cheat was dis- 
 covered, and the treacherous party forfeited their lives. 
 
 After crossing the Mavrozume we commenced ascending Ithonie. 
 At the end of an hour we arrived at the monastery erected on the 
 declivity. It bears the name of the mountain on which it is erected 
 
 Cc 
 
194 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 (Vourkano,) and is one of the most celebrated in the Morea : it is 
 dedicated to the Virgin, and is built in a very romantic situation. 
 The adjoining lands are adorned with oaks and lofty cypresses. The 
 monks are very kind to strangers : they gave us a most comfortable 
 apartment, and provided us with eggs, bread, and honey — the only 
 provisions they had in their convent. 
 
 A Greek monastery is inhabited by two descriptions of monks — 
 the kaloieros and the papa. No one is admitted into either of those 
 classes without the consent of the whole fraternity : no member of 
 the society can marry without forfeiting his character of monk. The 
 kaloieros or kalogeros (for the word is of disputed orthography, 
 some affirming that it is derived from n«xòg and hpòg, others that it is 
 deduced from nnxòg and ye'pav) is of the inferior order : his duty is to 
 clean the chapel of the building, to tend its flocks and herds, and to 
 wait on the papas or fathers. The little community is governed 
 by a person, the nomination of whom depends upon some rich 
 neighbouring Greek, or the bishop : he is called the egoumenos : 
 he must always be in priests' orders, and his duty is to assemble and 
 take the opinion of the papas in all cases of mutual interest — as the 
 nomination of a new member, the exaction of the pashà, or the pur- 
 chase of new lands. Each monastery pays a certain tribute, accord- 
 ing to its revenue : that of Vourkano pays yearly eighteen hundred 
 piasters ; but this does not always suffice to preserve them from the 
 sacrilegious depredations of the Moslems. When the monastery is 
 in the vicinity of a Turkish settlement, the fathers, if rich enough, 
 procure a guard of some Albanian soldiers, or a Turkish janissary. 
 
 Although generally plunged in the deepest ignorance, it is not 
 to be inferred that all the monks who inhabit these sacred build- 
 ings are entirely without the advantages of literature. The acquire- 
 ments of many are such as surprise those who consider the difficulty 
 of obtaining knowledge in this secluded land : those acquirements 
 arc, however, confined to a smattering of their own theology, a 
 slight acquaintance with the ancient Greek or Hellenic, and a 
 knowledge of the lives of their saints. Books are rarely met with in 
 
MAVROMATI. 195 
 
 the interior of the Morea, and it is not improbable that it is one of 
 the causes of the barbarism which pervades this part of Greece. 
 As in Italian, so in modern Greek, every syllable is pronounced, 
 and each letter bears constantly the same sound ; children con- 
 sequently learn to read Romaic and Italian with a rapidity much 
 greater than one accustomed only to the slow progress made in the 
 English schools would easily be brought to believe. I am, there- 
 fore, convinced, that the distribution of improving and entertaining 
 books would be speedily followed in these provinces by an extension 
 of knowledge — the only incentive which will ever rouse the Greeks 
 from their present degrading torpidity. 
 
 From the convent we proceeded to the extensive and interesting 
 ruins of Messene, situate at the distance of about half an hour's 
 ride. The most worthy of attention are the fortifications which run 
 up Mount Ithome, and encircle an immense space : towards the 
 north is a very remarkable entrance ; the outer gate leads to a cir- 
 cular court ; on the sides are two niches, in which, it is probable, 
 statues formerly stood ; over one of these is a defaced inscription ; 
 the marks of wheels are still very plainly discernible, and on the 
 pavement is seen a large hole, in the shape of a horse's hoof; our 
 guide told us some long superstitious tale about its origin ; the par- 
 ticulars I have forgotten. The architrave of this gate consists of 
 one immense block, twenty feet long; it has been partly thrown 
 down, one extremity lying on the threshold, while the other leans 
 on the wall of the building. Seven of the towers which defended 
 the wall still remain ; they are built of stones, hewn in a manner 
 exquisitely regular, but of which the size can be credited by those 
 only who have seen them. The foundations of many buildings, 
 constructed in an elegant style of masonry, are seen on the site of 
 this city ; all are of the age of Epaminondas. 
 
 Many coins may be purchased of the inhabitants in this place, and 
 they are, perhaps, genuine. An inscription is likewise shewn upon a 
 pedestal, half buried : it is carefully copied by those who visit this 
 spot, most of whom would be ashamed to return without a portfolio 
 
 Cc2 
 
196 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 filled with unintelligible inscriptions : for that purpose the ground 
 is, for a few piasters, dug out by the natives, who, at the departure 
 of the virtuoso, cunningly replace the soil. 
 
 The village of Mavromati consists of about twenty houses, and 
 is built upon the sides of Mount Ithome. It is a miserably-looking 
 place, and the only riches of its present inhabitants seem to consist 
 in the flocks of turkeys which cover the fields, and every where are 
 seen scratching among the heaps of stones. In the middle of the 
 ruins is a most beautiful fountain ; its waters are clear as crystal, 
 and numerous odoriferous shrubs shade its borders : from this foun- 
 tain, perhaps, it is that Messene takes its modern name, Mavromati, 
 " black eye :" it is, probably, the same with that mentioned by Pau- 
 sanias, under the name Clepsydra, the water of which was daily car- 
 ried to the Temple of Jove, and in which the infant God was washed. 
 
 From this village a road, sweeping along the mountain sides, 
 leads to a pass which was defended by an immense fortification, the 
 vast remains of which are still visible, consisting of two towers and 
 a triple wall ; thence a narrow path, over slippery crags, having on 
 the left a perpendicular precipice, many hundred feet in height, 
 leads to the monastery. This path we took, and had it not been for 
 the dizziness produced by our lofty position, we might have enjoyed 
 a beautiful view of the vale of Calamata, and the sea. 
 
 Pausanias's Description of Messene. — " The walls of Messene 
 are all built of stone ; they are defended by towers and ramparts. 
 As to the walls of the Babylonians, I have neither seen them, nor 
 heard any account from those who have seen them : the walls of the 
 Messenians are, however, stronger than those of Rhodes and Byzan- 
 tium, which places are thought to be the best walled. The Messe- 
 nians have, in their forum, the statue of Jove Salvator, and the 
 fountain Arsinoe, which took its name from the daughter of Leucip- 
 pus ; it receives its waters from the source called Clepsydra. In this 
 place are also the temples of the Gods ; and, what deserves especial 
 mention, the statue of the Mother of the Gods, of Parian marble, 
 
MAVROMATI. 197 
 
 sculptured by Damophon, who restored, with great industry, the 
 statue of Jove of Olympia, the ivory of which had fallen off; for 
 that reason the Eleans voted honours to him." 
 
 " The Messenians have also erected a temple to Lucina, with a 
 marble statue. Near this stands the dwelling of the Curetes, where 
 they offer in sacrifice animals of every kind, without any distinction. 
 .... They have also the Temple of Ceres, and the statues of Castor 
 and Pollux, carrying off the daughters of Leucippus " 
 
 " The Temple of ./Esculapius offers the greatest number of 
 statues, and the most worthy to be seen. Besides the statue of the 
 God, there are also those of his sons — that of Apollo, those of the 
 Muses, and of Hercules, of Epaminondas, of Fortune, and Diana 
 Lucifera. Damophon was the sculptor of those in marble ; I know 
 of no other Messenian sculptor who deserves mentioning. The 
 statue of Epaminondas is of iron." 
 
 " There is also in Messene the Temple of Messene, the daughter 
 of Triops ; her statue is of gold and Parian marble 
 
 " That which is called by the Messenians Hierotision, contains 
 the statues of all those whom the Greeks believe are Gods, and a 
 bronze statue of Epaminondas The Mercury, Her- 
 cules, and Theseus, in the Gymnasium, are the work of the Egyp- 
 tians 
 
 There is also the monument of Aristomenes, whose ashes the 
 Messenians say they fetched from Rhodes hither .... the 
 following is a custom of the Messenians : — leading to the monument 
 the bull they are about to sacrifice, they bind him to the column 
 which is on the sepulchre ; not accustomed to be bound, the bull 
 becomes furious, writhes, and tosses : meanwhile if the column 
 move, it is a lucky omen for the Messenians ; if it do not move, the 
 sign announces great misfortunes to them." 
 
 " Of Aristomenes there is also a bronze statue in the Stadium 
 of the Messenians. Not far from the theatre is the Temple of 
 Serapis and Isis." 
 
198 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 " Going towards the summit of Ithome, whereon is the citadel 
 
 of the Messenians, the fountain Clepsydra is seen." 
 it 
 
 The Messenians affirm that Jupiter was educated 
 
 in their country, and that Neda and Ithome were his nurses ; and 
 that from the former the river Neda took its name, and Ithome gave 
 hers to the mountain. They say that it was here those nymphs 
 washed Jupiter after he had been taken away by the Curetes, for 
 fear of his father, and that from the theft of the Curetes the water 
 took its name — ^Xe^vSpa, from xAeWf/v, to steal, and JJaj.) Every day 
 they carry water from this fountain to the Temple of Jove Ithomates. 
 " The statue of Jupiter was sculptured by Agelades, and was 
 originally made for the Messenians who inhabited Naupactus. The 
 priest is chosen yearly, and keeps the statue in his house. They 
 celebrate yearly a festival, called the Ithomaia ; and, in olden times, 
 there was also a contest of music." 
 
 Pausanias gives a lively description of the erection of the city of 
 Messene. It was with considerable emotion I read his account, 
 placed at the end of his history of the calamities and hardships to 
 which the Messenians had for so many centuries stood exposed. 
 Nothing interests so much the human heart as the spectacle of men 
 bearing up against the fiercest attacks of adversity, armed with real 
 patriotism and patient courage : — would to God the Romaics had 
 imitated the virtues of their bold ancestors, the Messenians; the 
 pestilential breath of the Moslems would not now blast the finest 
 parts of Europe. 
 
 " As the spot appeared to Epaminondas particularly adapted to 
 the building of a city, he commanded the augurs to observe the will 
 of the Gods. And they having asserted that the victims were pro- 
 pitious, he then commenced to prepare for building, ordering stone 
 to be brought, and inviting masons and stone-cutters." 
 
 " "When all was ready (the Arcadians having furnished the 
 victims) Epaminondas himself, and the Thebans, sacrificed to 
 
MAVROMATI. 199 
 
 Bacchus, and to Apollo Ismenius, according to their rites ; the 
 Argives to Juno Argiva and Nemean Jove ; the Messenians to Jove 
 Ithomates and the Dioscuri; and their priests to the great God- 
 desses and to Caucon. They then invited solemnly the shades of 
 the departed heroes to return and dwell among them, particularly 
 Messene, daughter of Triops, and, after her, Eurytus, Aphareus, and 
 his sons, Cresphontes and Epytus, from among the Heraclidae. But 
 more solemn than all was the invitation to Aristomenes. The whole 
 of that day they were busied in sacrifices and prayers : on the fol- 
 lowing days they raised the walls, and built within the houses and 
 temples. They laboured to the sound of no other music than that 
 of the Boeotian and Argive flutes : the favourite tunes of those days 
 were those of Sacadas and Pronomus. They gave to the city the 
 name of Messene, and built many castles. They did not drive the 
 Nauplians from Methon : they allowed also the Asineans to remain 
 in the country, mindful of the benefit they had received from them, 
 when they would not unite with the Lacedaemonians against them. 
 The Nauplians, when the Messenians returned to the Peloponnesus, 
 carried to them such gifts as they had." 
 
 " The Messenians returned into the Peloponnesus, and recovered 
 their country, two hundred and ninety-seven years after the taking 
 of Ira, Dyscinetus being archon in Athens, in the third year of the 
 hundred and second Olympiad, in which Damon was, for the second 
 time, conqueror." 
 
 The Messenians were three hundred years wander- 
 ing out of the Peloponnesus, during all which time, it is clear that 
 they never abandoned any of the customs of their country ; nor did 
 they ever forget the Doric dialect, for even in our days there are 
 those among the inhabitants of the peninsula who have preserved it 
 in its greatest purity." 
 
PAVLITZA (PHIGALIA.) 
 
 ROBBERS — TURKS KUKLA — HARVEST OF VELANI ACORNS VLACHI MOUNT LYCVEUS — 
 
 ANCIENT DESCRIPTION ASCENT — BEAUTIFUL VIEW PEASANTS SCENERY — DESCENT 
 
 ROMANTIC SITUATION OF PAVLITZA INHOSPITALITY EFFECT OF A FIRMAN — 
 
 BASSiE DESCRIPTION OF THE TEMPLE — ABSURJJ IDEA OF THE INHABITANTS. 
 
 JL/ESCENDING from the monastery of Vourkano, and crossing 
 once more the Mavrozume, we took the road to Pavlitza, the spot 
 we intended next to visit. Near it are found the remains of the 
 ancient city of Phigalia, and the temple of Apollo Epicurius, whence 
 the Phigalian frieze in the British Museum was taken. This temple 
 is one of the most interesting monuments of antiquity which the 
 Morea offers. 
 
 The road lies through a lovely wood of oak, between the trees of 
 which is seen, peeping in a romantic manner, an ancient fort, of 
 Venetian structure. It is not, however, always permitted to the 
 traveller to indulge his feelings in the admiration of one of the 
 sweetest views of nature I ever beheld; for the fort is generally 
 infested by robbers, who plunder every traveller as he passes, and 
 bid defiance to the efforts of the Turks to dislodge them. 
 
 After enjoying for some hours the beauties of this enchanting 
 scene, we arrived at a khan, much to the joy of poor George and 
 the other servants, who were nearly senseless with fright, and would 
 not stay one moment on the road. 
 
 The khan is built, as usual, near a derveni, and by the side of a 
 rivulet. Seated under a large plane-tree, which shadowed its banks, 
 were five or six Turks. They had lighted a fire, and were roasting 
 some ears of Turkey wheat, a very usual refreshment among them ; 
 these they shared generously with us, and we, of course, in return, 
 offered some of our coffee : thus a close intimacy was established 
 
PAVLITZA. 201 
 
 between us very shortly. One of their train actually wished to 
 become our shakshish, or janissary, for the rest of our journey. 
 We had no idea, he coolly told us, how he could bastinado the 
 Greek peasants, and make them shew tà lithdria, the stones. 
 His offer was refused, and the party, having mounted on their fine 
 accoutred steeds, galloped off, pipe in hand, towards Arcadia, a 
 new sea-port town, near the site of Cyparissise, in ancient Messenia, 
 mostly inhabited by Turks, and about three days' journey from 
 Patrass. 
 
 The khan was, I believe, called Kukla. We wished to take a 
 guide, but were precluded from so doing by their exorbitant demand 
 of twelve piasters ; this charge, as the distance was only three 
 hours, we deemed by far too high. We therefore proceeded alone, 
 keeping on the right towards the village of Vlachi, situate at the 
 bottom of the mountain, across which lies the road to Pàvlitza. The 
 peasants were busied in harvesting the Velani acorns : the men, 
 climbing the trees, beat down, with a pole, the fruit, which was 
 gathered vip by the women. The village of Vlachi is inhabited by 
 Albanians; it is situated at the foot of the range of Mount Lycaus. 
 
 Lycseus was also sometimes called Olympus; by the Arcadians 
 it was called the Sacred Mountain ; for they asserted that the 
 Crete, in which Jove was educated, was a part of this mountain, 
 and not an island. The God, it was pretended, was nursed by three 
 nymphs — Theisoas, Neda, and Hagno. Theisoas gave her name to a 
 town ; after Neda a river was named ; and the name of Hagno was 
 given to a remarkable source in the mountain, the waters of which 
 being, in time of drought, stirred, emitted a vapour, which rose to 
 form a cloud, and produced a plentiful shower, fertilizing the happy 
 land of Arcadia. There was also on the mountain a temple sacred 
 to Pan, a Hippodrome, and a stadium, in which were celebrated 
 the Lyccea, a sort of games, answering to the Roman Lupercalia. 
 There was also said to be a precinct, sacred to Lycaean Jove, wherein 
 neither man nor beast casts any shade. Pausanias tells us gravely, 
 that although this phenomenon takes place but once every year in 
 Ethiopia, it is the case in every season, and at all times, in this 
 
 Dd 
 
202 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 sacred precinct. Upon the highest summit of the mountain was 
 seen a tumulus, the altar of Jove Lycaeus, from which great part of 
 the Peloponnesus was discernible. 
 
 The ascent of this mountain, seldom visited by men or horses, 
 occupied us nearly two hours. The greatest part of the time was 
 taken up in removing the fallen trees, which obstructed the path, 
 and often made us doubt the possibility of proceeding by this way to 
 the top. At last, however, we succeeded, when a fine and extensive 
 view repaid us for the fatigue and labour of climbing so high. Be- 
 fore us lay the whole plain of Messenia; at its bottom the iEgean 
 waters, purple as the corn flower, and Mount Ithome ; to the right 
 a beautiful woodland of hill and vale : beyond was seen the unrippled 
 surface of the Ionian Sea; above which rose the dark-grey Strophades. 
 
 Having enjoyed this prospect a considerable time, and hailed 
 with lively emotions the first view, on our return, of the Ionian Sea, 
 we again endeavoured to continue our journey towards Pàvlitza, 
 but we were not able to discover the track, a task of no small diffi- 
 culty among these mountains, known, as it were, only to the herds 
 of cattle which graze on their tops. Luckily, however, we found a 
 company of shepherds sitting round a fountain, one of whom we 
 at length persuaded to shew us the road. These men were, both 
 in dress and physiognomy, the most barbarous you can possibly 
 imagine ; they seemed but one step above the sheep which they 
 tended, and, indeed, in countenance were not unlike them — a fine 
 subject for the observations of a Lavater, but the most stupid and 
 uncouth beings with whom a straying traveller could meet. The 
 general food of these peasants consists in the wild fruits, of which 
 their forests produce a great abundance; they call to our recol- 
 lection the verses of Lucretius : — 
 
 " Quod Sol, atque imbres dederant, quod terra creàrat 
 Sponte sua, satis id placabat pectora donum : 
 Glandiferas inter curabant corpora quercus 
 Plerumque; et quae nunc hyberno tempore cernia 
 Arbuta Phceniceo fieri matura colore, 
 Plurima turn tellus etiam majora ferebat." 
 
PAVLITZA. 203 
 
 The principal wild fruits are the acorns, which they eat roasted, 
 the arbutes, and the Siliqua Edilis, the sweet pulpy pods of which 
 are eaten by the poor thoughout Greece ; it is sold in Italy under 
 the name of Carruba, whence, perhaps, proceeds the name which 
 the same fruit bears in the south of France, (Caroube and Carouge :) 
 the modern Greeks call the Siliqua Edilis, Xulokeratia, a term 
 evidently derived from the ancient Greek, SoXojtép«T«. 
 
 The language of these people is one of the broadest of the dia- 
 lects heard in Greece. Our Athenian servant, when conversing 
 with them, was almost lost in the confusion of the rustic sounds 
 which were poured forth from their lips. But, however, without 
 their assistance it would have been impossible to find the way, as 
 there absolutely is not a vestige of a path. 
 
 The spot in which we were, and the country through which our 
 road lay, are doubtless the most beautifully romantic, which the fancy 
 of the painter could trace, or that of the poet describe; — to the 
 scorching atmosphere of the valley had succeeded the cool air of 
 spring ; shielded from the rays of the sun by the impenetrable 
 foliage of the Velani oak, we continued our way, treading on the 
 greenest turf, in a silence interrupted only by the tinkling of the 
 sheep browsing on the sides of the mountains, accompanied by their 
 shepherds ; at each turn new beauties offered themselves to feast 
 the eye. At one time ridges covered with verdure were seen 
 extending to the sea ; at another a deep glen, affording the wildest 
 scenery, or a torrent, impetuously rushing through steep crags, 
 covered with woods of cedar and pine — all equally beautiful, arrested 
 our attention, and worked up our minds to a state of awe and 
 admiration. The poets in vain have endeavoured to describe this 
 land ; at every step one sees new and beautiful scenes, which nature 
 has hidden in these solitudes, as though she were loth to unfold all 
 her beauties to the eye of man. 
 
 We descended by a terrific zig-zag path, overgrown with bushes, 
 and slippery by the thick moss which covered the rock. The 
 horses of the Morea descend these dangerous passes with astonishing 
 
 Dd2 
 
204 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 safety; the traveller dismounts; the bridle is tied up, and the 
 muleteeer, pulling with all his force the tail of the animal, hinders 
 him from tumbling headlong down the rocks. 
 
 On the opposite side of a deep glen, watered by the Neda, is the 
 supposed site of ancient Phigalia. — Represent to yourself a river, 
 darting from a narrow pass between the rocks, rapidly flowing at an 
 immense depth below a bridge, overhung with myrtle, bay,* and 
 arbutes, and soon after lost by the eye between two perpendicular 
 and approaching cliffs, the trees of which seem to unite their 
 branches, and form one lofty mass of forest ; then a steep road, 
 leading to a fountain, overhung with weeping willows and wild 
 olives, rushing from the rock, under an immense natural arch, and 
 afterwards dashing with a loud noise its foaming waters to feed the 
 river. Over this, built among hanging masses of stone, which the 
 first blast threatens to hurl down the abyss, some miserable cottages, 
 commanded by a mountain crowned with ancient walls, the extent 
 of which seem to indicate the habitation of the giant warriors of 
 old; — such is the situation of the little village of Pàvlitza: here 
 we passed the night. We were treated wretchedly ; we, however, 
 had an opportunity of convincing ourselves of the dread which these 
 people have of the power of their commanders, the Turks. On our 
 first arrival nothing could be obtained, neither bread, eggs, nor any 
 provision whatever ; so that we had no other prospect than that of 
 going to bed supperless — a circumstance by no means agreeable to 
 persons who had been twelve hours travelling. We had, in one. of 
 our portmanteaus, an old firman, the sultan's permission for a ship 
 to descend the Hellespont ; it was given to us by the captain of the 
 Gertrude, just after we had quitted the Dardanelles : this, after 
 having made to no purpose one last effort to obtain, by gentle 
 means, what was necessary, we shewed to the astounded peasants ; 
 
 * Et vos, ò lauri, carpam, et te, proxima myrte, 
 Sic positae quoniam suaves miscetis odores. 
 
 Virc. Ecl. II. 54. 
 
 The laurus of the classics is the same as the English bay. 
 
PAVLITZA. 205 
 
 the effect was instantaneous ; hardly had the immense folds of 
 parchment discovered the long dark lines of the sultan's mandate, 
 than we were surrounded with people, offering to us all sorts of 
 provisions, apologies, &c. We contented ourselves with a few eggs, 
 wine for our muleteers, and a bottle of excellent honey. 
 
 On the following morning we departed with a guide for the ruins 
 of the Temple of Apollo, now called the Columns. This fine monu- 
 ment of antiquity is situate on the top of the highest mountain in 
 this neighbourhood, at about three hours' distance from the village. 
 To arrive there you must follow a steep road, keeping to the left the 
 extensive fortifications of Phigalia ; while, on the right, is heard the 
 river, rushing at the bottom of a deep precipice : the stream is at 
 last crossed by a bridge, near the village of Dragochi, and soon 
 after you arrive at a fountain, from which, at some considerable 
 distance, through a venerable wood of oak, stands the temple, com- 
 manding a most beautiful view of the Peloponnesus, the Archipelago, 
 and Ionian Sea. 
 
 -The situation of this temple is most striking ; it is surrounded 
 by vast forests of oak, and from its entrance are seen the gulfs of 
 Messenia and Arcadia, the Strophades, and great part of the 
 Messenian plain ; the mountain on which it stands was formerly 
 called Cotylius. From Pausanias we gather that this temple was 
 one of the most celebrated for its architectural beauty in Greece. 
 I transcribe his description : — 
 
 " Phigalia is surrounded by mountains ; that on the left is called 
 Cotylius ; to the right rises another mountain, the Elaius : the 
 Cotylius is forty stadia distant from the city : in that mountain is 
 the place called Bassae, and the Temple of Apollo Epicurius,* the 
 roof of which is of marble. Of all the temples which the Pelopon- 
 nesians possess, this, next to the Temple of Minerva Alea at Tegea, 
 is the finest, both by the beauty of its marble and the harmony of 
 its structure. Apollo bore the name of Epicurius, for having assisted 
 
 * Ettixol^ki id est anxiliaris. 
 
206 CLASSICAL TOUE. 
 
 the Phigalians during a pestilence ; as among the Athenians he was 
 also surnamed Alexicacos,* for having driven from them a plague : 
 it was in the Peloponnesian war, and at no other period, that Apollo 
 drove away the plague from Athens and Phigalia : this is proved 
 by the similarity in the surnames, and the fact that Ictinus built the 
 temple at Phigalia; he who flourished in the time of Pericles, and 
 
 built for the Athenians their Parthenon." "A little 
 
 beyond the Temple of Apollo is the place called Cotylus, and in 
 Cotylus there is a Venus : she had a temple with a statue, but it is 
 now without a roof." 
 
 The thirty-six columns of this monument stand to this day, and 
 the shape of the edifice is most clearly traced ; it was built of a fine 
 calcarious stone, and not, as Pausanias insinuates, of marble. 
 Around, at the foot of the columns, are seen many scattered frag- 
 ments of the roof, which, it seems, was beautifully carved. It was 
 here that a society of young artists discovered the beautiful frieze 
 now placed in the British Museum, and known by the name of the 
 Phigalian Frieze : it represents the combats between the Centaurs 
 and the Lapithae, the Greeks and the Amazons : it was discovered 
 among the rubbish which lay heaped on the pavement of the tem- 
 ple, and, with honourable patience and industry, it was removed on 
 the backs of horses and mules, across a most dangerous and rugged 
 road, to Patrass, whence it was embarked. 
 
 The peasants have no idea that so much trouble could have 
 been taken for the purpose of preserving the mere figures of men 
 and horses : they are convinced that the sculptures must have con- 
 tained an immense sum of gold. A similar idea with regard to the 
 monuments of the ancients is generally prevalent among the un- 
 educated of the Greeks, and even among the higher classes of the 
 Turks : a collector has, more than once, lost a valuable prize by 
 offering too great a sum for its purchase ; the Moslem, as avaricious 
 as ignorant, wishing to obtain possession of the fancied treasure, 
 
 * AAiJi'xaxoj, quasi Aveiruneum dixeris. 
 
PAVLITZA. 207 
 
 pounds the marble, and destroys the statue ; — he finds no gold, and 
 imputes his disappointment to Christian magic. 
 
 Pàvlitza is pronounced with the accent on the antepenultimate. 
 I mention this circumstance to shew the attention paid to accent in 
 modern Greece. We travelled over great part of the Peloponnesus 
 without finding any person who could guess what we meant by 
 Pavlitza, the manner in which we thought the word was spoken; 
 and had it not been for one of the good monks of Vourkano, 
 blessed, probably, with greater divining faculties than most of his 
 countrymen, we should have been deprived of the pleasure of 
 examining one of the most interesting objects in the Morea, and of 
 the delight experienced in viewing some of the finest scenery nature 
 can offer to the contemplation of man. 
 
MIRAKA (OLYMPIA.) 
 
 PASS OF THE ANATHEMA — GREEK CURSE — ANDRITZENA LANGANA — PHTELIA — BORDERS 
 
 OF THE ALPHEUS TURKISH A T ILLAGES GOVERNMENT OF LALLA — STROPHADES— 
 
 CANOES USED ON THE ALPHEUS — FORD — CALLIPATIRA — MIRAKA, ANTILALLA RE- 
 MAINS OF OLYMPIA HIERO, KING OF SYRACUSE DESCRIPTION OF THE ANCIENT 
 
 •GROVE. 
 
 WE continued our way towards Olympia, having dismissed our 
 gelide, an aged peasant, whose tottering limbs could hardly bear him 
 over the rugged and steep road. 
 
 We retraced our steps from Bassse, till, at the distance of about 
 half a mile, we came to a fountain mentioned by Pausanias, who 
 corrects the mistake of those who pretended that it was the source 
 of the Lymax. This last river flows near Phigalia, and falls into 
 the Neda : it is probably crossed on the road between Pàvlitza and 
 Bassse, near Dragochi. This river was said to have derived its name 
 from the Greek A^cnct : the inquisitive and classic reader is referred 
 to Pausanias, lib. viii. cap. 41. Near this spring was encamped a 
 Romaic family ; they were busied in a most laborious employment — 
 the thrashing of Turkey corn. 
 
 From this place a path, on the mountain -side, leads to the small 
 Greek town of Andritzena. The scenery is beautiful, such as one 
 expects to find in Arcadia, the only classic spot, perhaps, which the 
 traveller sees without disappointment, and quits with regret. All 
 along a fine view is obtained of the Strophades and the Arcadian 
 Gulf, lying beyond a range of mountains covered with oak, and 
 over which, in our elevated situation, the eye ranged unbounded. 
 
 This pass is known by the name of the Anathema, from a heap 
 of stones found on the road side, and called by the Greeks a curse. 
 The following is the manner in which a Romaic peasant anathema- 
 
MIRAKA. 209 
 
 tizes his enemy : — surrounded by his friends and his neighbours, he 
 proceeds to some hillock, cross-road, or other public and frequented 
 spot; there, imprecating divine vengeance against his unfortunate 
 foe, he gathers together a certain number of stones ; each of his 
 friends and neighbours adds to the mass, pronouncing at the same 
 time the dreadful word àvaàe/xa, which consigns to eternal abhorrence 
 the miserable object of the curse, and severs him from the society of 
 his townsmen. Every traveller who passes, for some time afterwards, 
 thinks it his duty to augment the heap of stones, pronouncing 
 the dire form of execration. These anathemas are not unfrequently 
 seen in Greece ; they are generally formed on public occasions : 
 such a one, I am told, is seen somewhere near Athens ; it was 
 erected against an individual, who betrayed his fellow-citizens to 
 their common adversaries, the Turks. 
 
 At the distance of two hours' journey is the end of the pass of 
 the anathema. A fine and most extensive view presents itself of 
 great part of the north of the Peloponnesus : Cithaeron, Cyllene, 
 (no longer, as in the days of Aristotle, famed for its white ousels,) 
 and the mountains of Acarnania, are discernible. 
 
 Immediately beneath is situate the town of Andritzena : it con- 
 tains three hundred miserable hovels, inhabited by Greeks only. 
 The houses are agreeably intermingled with trees, the fruit of which 
 hung in clusters among the green leaves, and produced a very 
 pleasing effect. We observed several new houses building. The 
 fertile land of the vicinity is cultivated with an industry which re- 
 minded us of our own fields ; it is, therefore, probable, that this 
 town, unannoyed by the Turks, offers more advantages for settlers 
 than the others of the Morea. 
 
 We took at this place a guide, a baker of the town, whose broad 
 dialect sounded almost unintelligible to the Attic ears of our ser- 
 vant, and still more so to the transalpine ears of us harbaroi. 
 
 From Andritzena, a road incommodiously narrow and winding 
 leads to a valley watered by a river, which, if I mistake not, is called 
 the Langana, and is said to fall into the Alpheus below Olympia. 
 
 Ee 
 
210 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 We passed the night in a hovel of the village Phtelia, a miserable 
 hamlet, consisting of six cottages only. The daughter of the family, 
 one of the most beautiful women I saw in Greece, cooked for us an 
 omelet of eggs and cheese ; tired with our long day's journey, we 
 supped heartily, and, in spite of the swarms of vermin, constant 
 inmates of a Greek cottage, we slept soundly. 
 
 From Phtelia a rugged path leads to the borders of the Alpheus ; 
 it is repeatedly intersected by rivulets, which, gushing from the 
 lime-stone rocks, cool with their waters many retired groves of 
 arbute, myrtle, and bay. 
 
 The Alpheus is justly celebrated for the beauty of the scenery 
 along its banks ; at the junction of the Ladon with its stream, it 
 was, even after the summer's drought, nearly a hundred yards 
 broad. The waters are rapid and muddy ; on the left bank rises a 
 declivity, covered with mountain -trees, the pine, the cypress, and 
 the cedar ; their heavy dark foliage contrasts with the light and airy 
 planes which spread their long branches over the stream. On the 
 left the eye rests on a flat country, covered with lofty planes, and 
 bounded by a ridge of low mountains, studded with Turkish villages. 
 The banks of the Alpheus are mentioned by Pausanias * as the first 
 place in which the wild olive grew ; trees of that species are now 
 found in abundance in the forests of the Peloponnesus ; the fruit is 
 not separate, as in the cultivated plant, but hangs in clusters of a 
 delicate green ; they are gathered in the winter, after the harvest of 
 the other olives is completed : the oil expressed from them is 
 too bitter for culinary purposes ; it is used only in lamps, and gives 
 a clear flame, unaccompanied with any smell. 
 
 The Turkish villages consist of wretched huts, built of hurdles, 
 and covered with a conical roof of maize thatch : they are all under 
 the jurisdiction of Lallah, an independent Mohammedan settlement 
 of Albanians, who have taken possession of the district. Most of 
 the inhabitants were either Christians converted to Islamism, or 
 
 • Pausan. lib. v. cap. 14. 4. 
 
MIRAKA. 211 
 
 descendants of families originally Christian. Their features have 
 not yet assumed the true mark of haughtiness which distinguishes 
 the Turk from the raya or infidel. We saw them busy housing 
 their unusually abundant harvest of Turkey wheat, and, had we not 
 been otherwise informed, we should have mistaken them for a 
 hardier and bolder race of Romaic peasants. I need not inform 
 you that the Lalliotes are much abused by the Greeks : attachment 
 to his religion is almost the only virtue generally conspicuous in the 
 character of the modern Greek, and the finger of scorn is deservedly 
 pointed at those who abjure the tenets, in support of which their 
 forefathers passed a life of sufferance. 
 
 Who knows not the tale of the loves of Alpheus and Arethusa ? 
 — Both were devoted to the chace ; Alpheus falls in love with the 
 fair huntress ; she rejects his suit, and flies to Ortygia, a small 
 island near Syracuse, where she is metamorphosed into a fountain : 
 Alpheus heroically changes himself into a river, drives his im- 
 petuous waters, unmingled, through the Ionian sea, and unites them 
 to those of his cruel mistress. — I have little doubt that this fable of 
 the poets originated in the fact of a submarine communication, 
 which probably does, or formerly did exist between the Pelopon- 
 nesus and the island of Sicily. There is irrefragable evidence that 
 such a communication now exists between the Morea and the 
 Strophades. On the largest of those islands, a swampy patch of 
 land, there has stood for many years a convent, inhabited by fifty or 
 sixty monks, whose sanctuary is defended by a battery of great guns : 
 the leaves of the plane are often found swimming on the surface of 
 their well, although not one tree of that species grows in either of 
 the islands. Sir George Wheeler, who travelled in the year 1675, 
 mentions the same circumstance. At the convent is shewn a snuff- 
 box, which was taken from the well, having, as it is supposed, been 
 dropped into the Alpheus by some inhabitant of the opposite 
 peninsula. 
 
 The Alpheus is generally passed in a kind of canoe, still called 
 Monoxyla (NLovó£vh.ov :) as the name imports, they are of one piece ; 
 
 Ee2 
 
212 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 they are formed from the hollowed trunk of a plane-tree, and are 
 used in many parts of Greece to cross short ferries ; I have seen 
 them on the Alpheus, and at Santa Maura. The wherries or ca'ics of 
 Constantinople, thousands of which ply across the Bosphorus, are 
 constructed in a similar manner. These Monoxyla are very dan- 
 gerous passage boats ; an incredible number of persons are daily 
 drowned in the port of Constantinople, when the winds blow fresh 
 up the harbour. The passenger is placed at the stern, in the bot- 
 tom of the boat, and the rower, seated on a low bench with two 
 oars, drives it forward with great rapidity. We remarked the con- 
 venient manner in which the oars are made ; they are heavy near 
 the handle, so that when placed in the proper position to row, they 
 balance on the gunnel, or side of the boat. 
 
 The heat of the summer had so much diminished the waters of 
 the river, that we were able to ford it a little below the junction of 
 the Ladon. According to the Greek custom, many difficulties were 
 made by the guide before he would cross the river. 
 
 We travelled many miles on the right bank of this beautifully 
 winding stream, through the country of the Pisaei. The river, when 
 its bed is full, is crossed at a ferry called Palaio Phanaro, near 
 which rises a conical hill, seen from a distance : it is possible that 
 this hill is the same as the Typaean Mount, whence the inhabi- 
 tants of Elis precipitated the women who were caught at the 
 Olympic games, or were proved to have passed the Alpheus on the 
 forbidden days ; such was the law of the ungallant Elei. It was 
 said, however, that this law was infringed but once : — Callipatira, a 
 widow, having disguised herself as a wrestler, led her young son 
 Pisidorus to combat at Olympia ; he fought and conquered. The 
 fond mother, unable to contain her joy, yields to the dictates of 
 maternal love, flies to embrace her son, and, in leaping the fence, 
 discovers her sex. Her father, her brothers, and her son, had all 
 been Olympic victors ; in consideration of her illustrious family, she 
 was, therefore, forgiven ; but the prudent Elei ordained by law, that 
 for the future no wrestler should appear in the agon unless naked. 
 
MIRAKA. 213 
 
 Miraka and Antilalla* (pronounced Andilala, for t after n is 
 always sounded as d in the modern Greek) are two small villages, 
 inhabited by Turks, and infested by snarling curs. It is between 
 these two miserable places we find a few vestiges of Olympia ; they 
 are so faint, that considerable attention, accompanied with a vivid 
 imagination, hardly enables one to discover the site of the stadium 
 and the Hippodrome ; even the ruins of the famed temple of 
 Olympic Jove are trodden unheeded by the traveller. Mons Saturnus 
 is covered with wild olives and pine-trees. The Altis is laid out 
 partly in vineyards and partly in maize fields, among which are seen 
 a few barbarous huts, which constitute the village of Antilalla. 
 
 Excavations, if properly conducted, would perhaps enrich an 
 enterprising traveller; but permission must first be obtained from 
 the Albanian governor of Lalla. I was shewn, at Santa Maura, a 
 helmet, brought from this spot by Mr. Cartwright, a gentleman 
 whose talents and patriotism are well known ; he was formerly con- 
 sul-general of the Morea, and is now removed to Constantinople. 
 This helmet bears the name of Hiero, king of Syracuse, who ob- 
 tained, at the games, three Olympic crowns, two in the horse, and 
 one in the chariot race. Of this sovereign there were two statues in 
 Olympia, one of which was equestrian ; they were sculptured by 
 Mycon, the Syracusan. There were also the monuments of his 
 victories, given to the deity by his son Dinomenes ; they were a car 
 of brass, in which a charioteer was represented standing, and two 
 horses, mounted by children. 
 
 The city of Olympia was built at the foot of a mountain called 
 Cronion, or Mons Saturnus : it was sometimes called Pisa ; the city 
 which originally bore that name was, however, destroyed at a very 
 remote period ; and Pausanias, in his journey through the Pelopon- 
 nesus, could find no remains whatever, either of its walls or its 
 
 * 'A»TiXaXi'a signifies echo : it is remarkable that Pausanias, describing Olympia, mentions a 
 portico, the real name of which was Pcecile ; but by many called the portico of the echo, because 
 it repeated the sound of the human voice seven times, and not unfrequently more often. 
 
214 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 other buildings, the whole of the land on which it stood being con- 
 verted to a vineyard. The most remarkable part of Olympia was 
 the Altis, a sacred grove, adorned by temples and intersected by 
 paths, on the sides of which stood many altars, and hundreds of 
 monuments, erected in honour of the different Olympic victors ; all 
 were sculptured by the first artists of the age, and the series of 
 statues must have formed a most interesting history of Greek sculp- 
 ture : the details of these monuments are given at a tedious length 
 by Pausanias, to whose fifth and sixth books I refer those who are 
 curious in matters of this nature. 
 
 The finest object in the Altis was the Temple of Jupiter Olympus; 
 it merits a separate description. — It was composed of a porous 
 stone, dug from the neighbouring quarries ; the spoils of the Pisaei 
 furnished materials for the ornaments ; the roof was of Pentelic 
 marble, worked in the shape of tiles, according to the invention of 
 Byzes of Naxos. It was seventy-eight feet high, ninety-five broad, 
 and two hundred and thirty long : the order was Doric, and the 
 architect Libon, an inhabitant of Elis. At each corner of the roof 
 was placed a large gilded vase, and in the middle of the frontispiece 
 a gilt statue of Victory, at the foot of which hung a golden shield, 
 on which was sculptured the head of Medusa. Twenty gilt shields 
 were likewise hung round the temple ; they were the gift of Mura- 
 mius, the ravager of Achaia, and the destroyer of Corinth. The 
 anterior frontispiece, sculptured by Peonius, represented CEnomaus, 
 his daughter Hippodamia, her suitor Pelops, and the treache- 
 rous charioteer of CEnomaus ; the posterior frontispiece, sculp- 
 tured by Alcamenes, who was reckoned second only to Phidias, 
 represented the combat of the Lapithae and Centaurs. The gates 
 were of brass, adorned with basso-relievos, representing the labours 
 of Hercules. 
 
 The colossal statue of Jupiter was of gold and ivory, a master- 
 piece of the prince of sculptors, Phidias: the God was represented sit- 
 ting on a throne, adorned with basso-relievos, by Phidias, and with 
 paintings, by his brother, and enriched with precious stones and curious 
 
M1RAKA. 215 
 
 woods : in the right hand of the Deity was a Victory ; in his left a 
 sceptre, surmounted by the royal eagle ; an olive -crown encircled 
 his brows. — The study and instruments of Phidias were, with reli- 
 gious veneration, preserved by the Elei ; to his posterity also was 
 confided the important and honourable office of cleaning the statue, 
 and furnishing the oil which was wont to be poured on the pave- 
 ment near the statue, to preserve the ivory from the effects of the 
 marshy vapours to which, by its position, it was subject. It was 
 pretended that the God himself gave to Phidias a proof of his being 
 pleased with his image; a mark was shewn on the pavement of 
 the temple, where a thunderbolt had fallen at the entreaty of the 
 sculptor. 
 
 Of this superb temple, the wonder of the world, there now 
 remain a few walls, the identity of which might be easily disputed. 
 
 Not far from the Temple of Jupiter stood that of his consort 
 Juno ; it was built at a very early period, and was also of the Doric 
 order. Games called Junonia, and said to have been instituted by 
 Hippodamia, in gratitude for her marriage with Pelops, were cele- 
 brated at Olympia. They consisted of foot races, run by Elean 
 damsels, arranged according to their age, the youngest being the 
 first : their hair hung loose on their shoulders ; their dress was a 
 light vest, which reached to the knees, and exposed the right breast 
 and shoulder. The Olympic stadium was used for these games, but 
 its length was shortened for the fair runners ; the conqueror was 
 presented with a crown of olive, and — Horresco referens — a piece 
 of beef from the ox sacrificed to Juno. The conquerors were also 
 allowed to hang up their portraits in the temple, a reward as gratify- 
 ing to the tender sex in those days, as it would now be were the 
 Junonia re-instituted. 
 
 The Temple of Juno was adorned with many monuments ; that 
 described as the most remarkable was the chest of Cypselus, dedi- 
 cated by his posterity. Cypselus was sovereign of Corinth ; pursued 
 by the Bacchidae in his infancy, his mother concealed him in a 
 coffer; hence the name of his family, ku^e'ah signifying a chest. 
 
216 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 The sides of the coffer were adorned with rough sculptures, and 
 inscriptions written in the manner known among the Greeks by the 
 name Boustrophedon,* in which the lines ran alternately from left 
 to right, and right to left. The Boustrophedon was the most ancient 
 mode of writing, and doubtless the most natural : it is remarkable 
 that it is found in the ancient Greek, and in the Runic, or ancient 
 language of Iceland. 
 
 Speaking of the Temple of Juno, Pausanias mentions a remark- 
 able circumstance which was related to him by Aristarchus, an 
 inhabitant of Olympia. In repairing the roof of the temple there 
 was found, between the ceiling and the part which supported the 
 tiles, the corse of a heavy-armed soldier : he was killed in the battle 
 fought by the Elei against the Lacedaemonians, within the precinct 
 of the Altis. In that combat the inhabitants of Olympia annoyed 
 the foe from the tops of the temples and other elevated places ; and 
 it was supposed that the soldier alluded to, faint and wounded, 
 crawled under the roof, which served him six hundred years for a 
 tomb. His body, when discovered, was in such preservation, that 
 it seemed to have but just ceased to breathe. 
 
 Near these two temples was seen the altar of Jupiter Olympus ; 
 it was a lofty eminence, formed from the ashes of the thigh bones of 
 the victims sacrificed to the God. 
 
 It was near Olympia that the exiled Xenophon retired : his place 
 of retreat was Scillus, a town belonging to the Lacedaemonians. 
 He embellished this spot, and erected a magnificent temple, in 
 imitation of that of Diana at Ephesus. In this place Xenophon 
 wrote his immortal works, and here he would probably have breathed 
 his last, had not the war between the Elei and the Lacedaemonians 
 obliged the aged philosopher to fly to Corinth, where, in his nine- 
 tieth year, he bade adieu to the ingratitude and envy of this world. 
 
 * Bourf mp« Jòn, vertendo et Jlectendo se more bourn arantium ; the lines of this kind of writing 
 are formed backwards and forwards, like the furrows of ploughed land. 
 
PATRASSO (PATRIO 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM OLYMPIA — COUCURRA ATTACK OF THE VILLAGERS— VINTAGE PYRGO 
 
 ELIS PENEUS — KHAN — ROAD TO PATRASSO PATRASSO ANCIENT TOWN CULTI- 
 VATION OF THE UVA PASSA — COURBAN BEIRAM. 
 
 FROM Miraka we took the road towards Patrasso, where we 
 intended to embark for the Ionian Isles. That town is at the dis- 
 tance of about a day and a half's ride from the place we were at. 
 We regarded all the danger, fatigue, and anxiety of our journey 
 through the Peloponnesus, as at an end. Notwithstanding the 
 delight experienced in travelling over so inexpressibly beautiful a 
 country, we directed our steps homeward with a pleasure which the 
 heart feels, but the tongue cannot describe : to return to one's coun- 
 try after a long and dangerous peregrination ; to catch the first 
 sight of land after a stormy voyage — are pleasures which amply 
 repay the toil of many years. 
 
 We intended to sleep at Coucurra, a small village, three or four 
 miles distant from Olympia. This place is erected on the brow of a 
 steep hill, and belongs to the territory of Lalla. It was by God's 
 mercy alone that we escaped assassination in this miserable hamlet : 
 the circumstances I shall briefly detail ; they offer a lesson of pru- 
 dence to those whose curiosity leads them to visit spots subject to 
 no government, and inhabited by the vicious and the lawless. 
 
 We arrived very late, and proceeded to some cabins situate at 
 the foot of the hill : we found it impossible to obtain a lodging ; we 
 therefore took one of the peasants as a guide, and ascended to the 
 upper part of the village. The house of the cogia-bashee,* or 
 governor, a fellow as miserable and ragged as his subject clowns, 
 
 • This is a Turkish word, signifying Chief of the Elders; it answers to the Greek ù^x-"- 
 
 Ff 
 
218 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 was pointed out to us by our guide, who quitted us precipitately, 
 leaving us to gain admittance. Lodging was here peremptorily 
 refused by the master of the house, who carried his inhospitality so 
 far, as to deny us even a light to kindle a fire under a neighbouring 
 shed ; and we were left standing, aqud et igne interdictis , shivering 
 with cold and wearied with fatigue. Giorgio, our servant, was 
 taken for a janissary, and as such called Agà mou, the mode of 
 address used by the Romaics to the Turks ; proud of the mistake, 
 our Athenian resolved to augment the similitude by thrashing the 
 landlord. The effect was directly contrary to his expectations ; at 
 the sound of the cogia-bashee's voice the whole clan assembled, 
 armed with bludgeons, sabres, and guns. The servant and myself 
 were the only persons who had dismounted; the horses, the bag- 
 gage, and my companions were, with the rapidity of lightning, hur- 
 ried down the hill by our cowardly muleteers, leaving us to defend 
 ourselves as well as we could : Giorgio cocked the gun which he 
 wore slung on his shoulder : we prepared to resist, and, if possible, 
 to make good our retreat, although pursued by the peasants, who 
 shook the air with the cries of xepurot, m^uròg, m«t« to /x«%«/p<ov, " horned, 
 horned, (a term of reproach often used by the modern Greeks,) 
 down with the sabre." Stones were poured upon us by the 
 women, and a few musket shots were fired. The report of the guns 
 luckily alarmed some Turkish soldiers, who were garrisoned at the 
 foot of the hill, in the villa of the vaivode of Pyrgo, a neighbouring 
 town : they came to our assistance, and enabled us to escape to the 
 Turkish house, where we received most hospitable treatment, and 
 passed a quiet night. 
 
 Giorgio behaved, in this encounter, with much coolness and 
 courage : a shot grazed his turban, but happily did him no injury. 
 At the commencement of the attack I cautioned him not to fire, for 
 fear of irritating the assailants : the reply of this faithful servant 
 was — " No, affendi, not unless you go down." His first care, after 
 the combat, was to return thanks to the Almighty for our deliver- 
 ance. — I am particular in detailing these trifling circumstances, as 
 
PATRASSO. 
 
 219 
 
 they serve to give a better and more correct idea of national cha- 
 racter than the most laboured and methodical treatises. 
 
 From Coucurra we proceeded to Pyrgo, the largest town between 
 Olympia and Patrasso. The road follows the river, beyond which, 
 on the left, is seen the lofty peak of Phanario, the highest of Mount 
 Minthes ; on the right is seen Mount Pholoe, now called Dimizana. 
 
 The inhabitants were occupied in the vintage: this was per- 
 formed in a manner, of which I have seen no instance elsewhere. 
 A moveable vat was placed in the vineyard, and the grapes, as soon 
 as gathered, were trodden, to express the juice, which was carried 
 in tubs, on the backs of asses, to the town. The stems and skins of 
 the fruit were left to fertilize the land. The territory of Elis abounds 
 in the productions of the earth : it was formerly celebrated for its 
 byssus, a species of very fine flax, now unknown. 
 
 Pyrgo is a tolerably sized town : it has a vaivode, and a bishop, 
 who bears the pompous title of Pylos and Olonos. The principal 
 street is wide, and the inhabitants frequently wear the Frank dress, 
 which gives to this place an appearance more European than that 
 of the other towns of the Peloponnesus. 
 
 From Pyrgo the road runs over a plain : the sea and the island 
 of Zante, deservedly called the flower of the Levant, are in view. 
 This plain was called the xo/av), or hollow : it was watered by the 
 Peneus, the Melas, the Larissus, and the Glaucus, all of which were 
 respectable rivers, descending from the range of Pholoe. On the 
 shore stood Cyllene, Olenus, Dymae : the two latter belonged to 
 Achaia ; the former was in the territory of the Eleans. Pausanias 
 mentions that Cyllene was the arsenal of Elis ; it was adorned with 
 the temples of iEsculapius and Venus. There was also a statue of 
 Mercury, much venerated : this God was called Cylleneius, not 
 because he was particularly worshipped at this town, but rather 
 because he was born on Cyllene, a mountain of Arcadia, now called 
 Zigria, which I have more than once mentioned. 
 
 In the plain itself were seen the towns Salmone, Ephyra, Bupra- 
 
 Ff2 
 
220 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 sium, and Elis. Between Olympia and Elis was Letrini, once a 
 small town, but even in the days of Pausanias reduced to a hamlet, 
 consisting of a few houses : this place had a temple, dedicated to 
 Diana Alphea : the origin of that appellation is said to have been 
 as follows : — Alpheus was in love with Diana, and finding that 
 prayers and intreaties were of no avail with the hard-hearted God- 
 dess, he prepared by force to obtain what was refused to his sup- 
 plications. For that purpose he proceeded to Letrini, where the 
 Godness then dwelt ; but here again the rejected lover was disap- 
 pointed ; Diana bedaubed herself and her companion nymphs with 
 mud. Alpheus came, but, unable to distinguish his favourite, he 
 was forced to return ungratified. From this occurrence Diana took 
 the name Alphea. 
 
 Some uninteresting ruins of Elis are shewn at a place called 
 Palseopoli, nearly half-way between Pyrgo and Patrasso. The 
 country above is called, from the beauty of the view, Kaloscopion 
 (nefcroców*) The site of Cyllene and Dymae are also pointed out ; 
 the former near Chiarentza ; the latter at a place now called Papas. 
 The whole of this neighbourhood takes the name of Gastouni, a 
 large modern town, situate at no great distance from the shore. 
 
 The Peneus now bears the name Iliako ; the Larissus is called 
 Risso ; and the Glaucus Leuka : they were all, when we passed, 
 easily fordable, but I have been informed that the winter rains not 
 unfrequently swell them to dangerous torrents. 
 
 Patrasso is situated among numbers of rivulets, which throw 
 themselves into the sea along this coast, and render the climate 
 very unwholesome. This town is placed at the foot of Mount 
 Panachaicon, now Mount Boidia : it is surrounded with orchards of 
 oranges, lemons, citrons, and plots of the Uva Passa, or Corinth 
 grape, commonly called currants. Of this fruit vast quantities are 
 annually exported from Patrasso and Zante : it is the produce of a 
 creeping broad-leaved vine, which was first cultivated on the Isthmus 
 of Corinth, although now planted there but seldom : when ripe it is 
 
PATRASSO. 221 
 
 of a dark purple colour, and tastes delicately sweet : it is gathered 
 and picked from the stem ; it is then dried in the sun, and after- 
 wards trodden in large casks for exportation. 
 
 Patrasso was formerly called Patrae ; its name is now pronounced 
 by the inhabitants, JBatra. When Pausanias visited this place it 
 boasted of many monuments ; a Temple of Diana Laphria, in whose 
 honour a pompous sacrifice was annually made : the victims, beasts 
 and birds of different kinds, were thrown alive into the flames., and 
 those which broke out were pursued by the spectators, none of 
 whom was ever known to have been bitten, such was the influence 
 of the Goddess. There were also several other buildings, and an 
 odeum, the finest in all Greece, after that of Athens, which was built 
 by Herod the Athenian, in honour of his deceased wife. There 
 were also temples of Neptune, Venus, and Ceres. The women of 
 Patrasso were in number double the men ; they were celebrated for 
 their libidinous inclinations. The usual occupation of these females 
 was to knit the byssus, or fine flax of Elis, into caps and dresses. 
 Of the ancient edifices few, if any, remains can now be traced. 
 
 This town now contains about ten thousand inhabitants : it is 
 governed by a Turkish vaivode, and is the see of a metropolitan : it - 
 is the residence of the British consul-general of the Morea, and 
 most of the European nations have here a barattiere, or agent. 
 There is on the port a custom-house, at which Othman subjects 
 pay six per cent, on imports and exports, while foreigners pay four 
 only. The day after our arrival was the Courban Beiram, the 
 second grand festival of the Turks : the cannon of the citadel 
 announced the dawn of day, and the principal Greek inhabitants of 
 the town went in procession to pay their respects to the vaivode. 
 
 We remained eight days at Patrasso. We had heard that the 
 climate of the town was insalubrious ; this was verified by the pale 
 wan countenances of all those we met in the streets. I was attacked 
 here by a fever, which brought me to death's door, and obliged me 
 to embark for the Ionian Isles. We departed precipitately, for we 
 were flying for our lives. 
 
222 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Before our departure we dismissed our muleteers, who had 
 served us faithfully ; they had begun to be attached to us, and we, 
 on our side, had also begun to feel some attachment for men who 
 had accompanied us through so many dangers and toils. We 
 separated not without feelings of regret; but greater than all 
 was the grief of our trusty Giorgio; his engagement expired at 
 Patrasso, and therefore, some days before our departure, we agreed 
 with another person, a Corfiote, who wished to return to his country. 
 Poor Giorgio endeavoured to wear a forced countenance of hilarity, 
 but in vain ; more than once the big tear was seen trickling down 
 his cheek. Just before we embarked I called him into my room to 
 pay him the stipulated sum ; — heedless of the gold, he carried my 
 hand to his forehead, his eyes streaming with tears, and his voice 
 choked with grief, he recommended me to the protection of the 
 Panagia : the affecting scene was too much for my nerves, already 
 shaken with sickness; I left the zechins on the table, and hurried 
 to the port. 
 
 
SANTA MAURA (LEUCADIA.) 
 
 ILLNESS ITHACA — ARRIVAL AT SANTA MAURA — QUARANTINE — TOWN — FORT — ANCIENT 
 
 CITY — CANAL — PHENOMENON OF THE WIND — HARVEST OP OLIVES GREEK SCHOOL 
 
 MODE OP TEACHING LOVER'S LEAP — ORIGIN OF THE NAME LEUCAS. 
 
 THE bark in which we sailed was a tartan, belonging to Prevesa, 
 a port of Epirus ; she carried several soldiers of Ali, the pashà of 
 Albania. The principal amusement of those poor fellows seemed 
 to be the hunting and killing of the vermin which swarmed in their 
 clothes. We were huddled together on a small open deck, exposed 
 to all the inclemencies of the weather. 
 
 We were two days and a night on our passage, during some part 
 of which we lay-to, awaiting a more favourable wind, under Theaki, 
 formerly Ithaca. I regret much that my illness did not allow me to 
 feast my eyes with a view of Ulysses' kingdom ; but the force of my 
 fever was so great, that I lay on the deck, bereft of sense and 
 motionless ; the visions of my friends, my family, my home, flitted 
 before my imagination, and rendered me heedless of the interesting 
 scene which surrounded us. 
 
 In the afternoon of the second day from our departure, we 
 landed at the town of Santa Maura. It was not till the surgeon of 
 the British garrison established in the island had reconnoitred us, 
 that we were allowed to disembark. My companions, whose hu- 
 manity claims my lasting gratitude, carried me in their arms to 
 land : we were there placed in a room to perform fourteen days' 
 quarantine : several papers which hung on the walls were removed, 
 and two Greek guards were placed at the door, to see that the laws 
 of quarantine should not be infringed. Each of these sentinels held 
 a long bar of iron, at the end of which was a separation, in which 
 any written communication we had to make was placed, in order, ere 
 
224 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 it was delivered, to be properly fumigated. We were daily visited by 
 the British officers of the garrison, anxious to give us proofs of the 
 simple and genuine hospitality peculiar to their nation. The sur- 
 geon of the regiment attended me assiduously, and, thanks to his 
 kind attentions, my fever was, if not entirely cured, at least for a 
 time repelled. 
 
 So disgracefully are the most rigid laws of quarantine infringed 
 by the centinels, or guardiani della sanità, that we not unfrequently 
 caught our servant playing at cards with them : from us, however, 
 those conscientious gentlemen would never receive the smallest 
 piece of paper until it had been properly discoloured with smoke, 
 and sometimes partially burnt. 
 
 At the end of fourteen days' incarceration our liberty was 
 restored to us, the want of which I began seriously to feel, as no- 
 thing conduces so much to the re-establishment of health, after a 
 fever, as gentle exercise. 
 
 Santa Maura is said to contain eighteen thousand inhabitants. 
 Travellers returning from the almost desert tracts of the Pelopon- 
 nesus, are struck at the novel appearance of the streets of the town, 
 crowded with inhabitants. Sign boards, some of which are in Eng- 
 lish, are exposed to view : the houses are numbered, and the tinkling 
 of church bells sounds pleasing to the Christian ear, as it proclaims 
 freedom from Turkish tyranny. The churches are respectable 
 buildings : the bells are not, as in other countries, placed in the 
 tower, but hang from an arch erected on a lofty wall, placed sepa- 
 rately before the entrance. 
 
 This island was formerly a peninsula of the opposite Albanian 
 coast, and is by Thucydides described as such : it was celebrated 
 for the Lover's Leap, a precipitous cliff on the western side of the 
 island, on the top of which stood a Temple of Apollo : from this 
 promontory a convicted criminal, covered with feathers and other 
 light articles, proper to diminish the rapidity of his fall, was annually 
 thrown as a sacrifice to the God : if he escaped death, his punish- 
 ment was commuted to perpetual banishment. It was from this 
 
SANTA MAURA. 
 
 225 
 
 place also that Sapho and Artemisia of Halicarnassus, the bold 
 ally of Xerxes, sought a remedy for their love ; both died in 
 the attempt, and to Artemisia a beautiful tomb was erected near 
 the place of her death. The city of Leucas was built in the 
 peninsula; it was destroyed by the Romans. The Isthmus, by 
 which Leucadia was united to the continent, was so narrow, that 
 the smaller barks Avere usually drawn over it; after the Pelopon- 
 nesian war it was cut through by the inhabitants. 
 
 The canal which separates Santa Maura from Albania is not 
 above half a mile broad ; it is frequently crossed in canoes, or 
 monoxyla, and, at certain seasons of the year, the inhabitants find 
 no difficulty in wading from shore to shore : in mild weather the wind 
 blows up this canal in an easterly direction from sun-rise till past 
 noon ; it then shifts, and generally blows from the west. The 
 modern town is built in the most unhealthy part of the island, 
 and close to several salt-pits ; these are formed on the coast, and 
 separated from the sea by sluices, which admit the water into 
 a shallow preserve, the heat of the sun sufficing to effect crys- 
 talization. The fort is placed between the town and the opposite 
 shore of Albania, at the extremity of a peninsula, joined to the 
 land by a narrow and semi-circular Isthmus, three miles long*, 
 and is surrounded with shoals, abounding in fish of different kinds. 
 A shorter communication is obtained by the remains of a narrow 
 Turkish aqueduct, which crosses the shallows : it consists of above 
 three hundred arches, and, in windy weather, the passage is by no 
 means safe, as the pedestrian runs the risk of being blown into the 
 sea. The garrison consisted of about three hundred men, com- 
 manded by Captain Ross, a gentleman whose hospitality is un- 
 bounded. 
 
 A beautiful road, shaded by olive trees, leads from the modern 
 town to the ancient Leucas. About three miles distant the ruins 
 are seen on an eminence, covered with vineyards, at the foot of 
 which is a copious fountain, adorned with a pompous Veneto-Latin 
 inscription : the walls are of Cvclopean masonry, and very exten- 
 
 Gg 
 
226 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 sive : no edifices can be clearly traced, although heaps of ruins are 
 seen on all sides. We were shewn an ancient mill, dug up on this 
 spot ; it was hewn in the infancy of mechanic art ; a hemispherical 
 stone, revolving within a corresponding vase of granite, reduced the 
 corn to powder. On the opposite shore of Albania is seen a castle, 
 containing a garrison of soldiers belonging to Ali pashà. 
 
 Near the ruins of Leucas a gibbet has been erected, from which, 
 inclosed in a cage of iron, hangs the corse of an inhabitant of this 
 island ; he murdered his father, his mother, his brothers, and his 
 sisters, and then fled from his country; but the long arm of justice 
 seized the parricide : he was taken in the Morea, brought to Santa 
 Maura, and executed. His example struck with indescribable terror 
 the Ionians, few of whom dare approach the spot where the body is 
 exposed. The execution of this individual took place at the time 
 General Campbell commanded in these islands. The necessary, 
 although severe justice of this gentleman, produced a most salutary 
 effect ; the islanders then learnt, for the first time, that pardon was 
 not, as before, to be obtained by money. 
 
 We crossed several fine groves of olive. The green turf under 
 the trees produces abundance of mushrooms. The peasants were 
 gathering the fruit ; some, standing on the branches, were beating 
 down the olives, striking, according to Pliny's advice, always in 
 one direction, and with a gentle force : others were picking them up, 
 and transporting them in hampers to the town. 
 
 The modern town of Santa Maura is commanded by a moun- 
 tain, from the top of which a fine view is obtained of the island, the 
 fort, Albania, and the Ionian Sea: near the summit is placed a 
 small convent; one of the monks has a small school of seven or 
 eight dirty urchins; they were in the open air, squatting on the 
 ground learning their tasks : at our desire the kaloieros called them 
 to repeat the lesson; it was the Lord's Prayer; the children, each 
 holding his book, stood round the pedagogue, who, with a small 
 twig, kept order in the class ; at a given signal all commenced, in a 
 singing voice, to spell the words, pe, alpha, ™, taf, epsilon, ro, rej, 
 
SANTA MAURA. 227 
 
 w«Tf?, and so on. How any thing can be learnt in this manner I 
 know not; and, as all speak together, I cannot divine how the 
 master's ear distinguishes which of his pupils commits a blunder. 
 
 Had my health allowed me, I should have visited the Leucadian 
 Promontory, but sickness had blunted my curiosity, and rendered 
 me inert : an officer who had been there several times, gave me the 
 following account of it : — The promontory is the extreme of a long 
 ridge of limestone, rocks in which this island abounds : some particles 
 of mica being washed by the torrents into the valley, have caused the 
 name of the Silver Mountain to be given to one of those near the 
 Lover's Leap. The leap was taken from the top of a projecting rock, 
 one hundred and eighty feet high : several names are engraved on the 
 face of the cliff, but it is impossible to make out the letters from the 
 bottom. Many tombs have been found in the vicinity of this place, 
 raised, perhaps, over the mad lovers who perished in the experiment 
 of the leap. Seen from a distance, the cliffs bear a very white 
 appearance, to which the promontory and the whole peninsula owed 
 its ancient name, Leucas. 
 
 Gg2 
 
CORFU (CORCYRA.) 
 
 PASSAGE TO CORFU — PRBVESA BATTLE NEAR ACTIUM PARGA — ANECDOTE OF DIS- 
 INTERESTEDNESS — ENTRANCE INTO CORFU APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN SANTO 
 
 SPIRIDIONE — NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE TOWN IMPROVEMENTS — LANGUAGE UNI- 
 VERSITY OF ITHACA MODERN GREEK EXTRACTS. 
 
 WE took our passage for Corfu on board a bark, laden with 
 wood, which had been imported to !Tanta Maura from Albania, and 
 was now going to be transported to the capital of the Ionian Islands. 
 Our luggage was carried over the shallows in monoxyla ; the same 
 conveyance we likewise used for our persons, as the shoals are so 
 extensive, that no boat, drawing much water, can come within half 
 a mile of the town. 
 
 We were two days on our passage, during the whole of which 
 we were in close view of the shores of Albania : this circumstance 
 afforded us an opportunity of seeing the ports of Prevesa and Parga. 
 The former of these is built on a gulf, which stretches far inland, 
 and offers, I am told, a secure harbour for ships of any burden. 
 This port was taken by Ali pashà from the French, who occupied it 
 as one of the dependencies of the Ionian Islands : an obstinate 
 battle was fought between the troops of the pashà and those of the 
 garrison ; the latter were obliged to yield to the superior numbers 
 of their adversaries : the fight is said to have taken place on the 
 very spot which many antiquaries suppose to be the site of Actium, 
 near which, all know, the fleets of Caesar and Antony struggled for 
 victory. Parga stands on the declivity of a hill, and, like ali towns 
 built in that manner, bears a light and agreeable appearance, 
 directly opposed to the massy aspect of a city erected on a plain : 
 the top of the hill is defended by a citadel, and all the surrounding 
 eminences are covered with a dark mantle of olive trees : behind 
 
corfu. 229 
 
 rises the mountainous country, once inhabited by the patriots of 
 Suli, the Spartans of modern Greece. Butrinto (Buthrotum,) 
 Parga, Prevesa, Vonitza, ports on the Albanian coast, formerly 
 belonged to the Ionian states ; of all these Parga was the only one 
 occupied by the British troops when we visited Corfu ; the others 
 had been given up to Ali pashà, and, at the time of our stay in 
 the islands, negociations were carrying on between the Lord High 
 Commissioner of the Ionian states (Sir Thomas Maitland) and an 
 ambassador from Ioanina. Parga has since been delivered to the 
 pashà of Albania, and an asylum offered to the inhabitants in the 
 Ionian Islands : of the policy of the measure I shall say nothing, as 
 the actions of government often proceed from exigencies, the nature 
 of which cannot easily be determined by private individuals. Much 
 has been said of the patriotism of the Pargiotes, and consequently 
 of the cruelty evinced in delivering the town to their Moslem neigh- 
 bours ; much also has been said of the breach of faith committed by 
 the English government in not admitting this town to form part of 
 the Ionian republic : — I am at a loss to determine what patriotism 
 can exist in a miserable hamlet, which, by its size even, can never 
 have known independence : as to the other objection, all must own 
 that it seems not quite ungrounded, particularly if the treaty signed 
 the fifth of November, 1815, at Paris, be considered : the first article 
 of that treaty is as follows : — 
 
 " The islands of Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, Santa Maura, 
 Ithaca, Cerigo, and Paxos, together with their dependencies, such 
 as they are laid down in the treaty of the twenty-first of March, 
 1800, between his Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias, and the 
 Othman porte, shall form one only, free, and independent state, 
 under the denomination of the United States of the Ionian Islands." 
 
 Of the dependencies here mentioned, Parga was doubtless one. 
 As I before observed, negociations were carrying on, during our stay 
 at Corfu, between the Lord High Commisioner of the Ionian states, 
 and an ambassador from Ioanina. An anecdote was mentioned to 
 us, which I cannot refrain from repeating, as it affords an example 
 
230 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 of honest patriotism and noble disinterestedness, which would have 
 honoured a Phocion or a Fabius. The ambassador, it seems, had 
 received orders from his Sovereign to hasten the negociation by 
 making some presents to the secretary of the High Commissioner : 
 in one of their conferences the Mussulman made known his inten- 
 tions; — the secretary led him to a window of the palace, and, point- 
 ing to the highest mountain of the island, told him — " Were that 
 mountain a mass of gold, and your master to offer it to us, he would 
 not obtain Parga one moment ere the dictates of justice had been 
 fulfilled." 
 
 The entrance into Corfu is strikingly beautiful : the imposing 
 appearance of the batteries ; the two lofty citadels, which flank the 
 town ; the port, gradually extending, and defended by the small 
 island of Vede, formerly shaded with olives, now covered with cannon 
 — all announces the approach towards a town dedicated to warfare. 
 
 Corfu is situated on the eastern side of the island, within six 
 miles of the coast of Albania. As you enter the harbour, you see 
 erected on an eminence, a fort called Castello Nuovo ; in this place 
 are situate the different magazines, the barracks for the troops, and 
 the telegraphs, which, when the town was in the power of the French, 
 corresponded to one placed on the highest mountain of the island : 
 the latter communicated with those in Apulia, so that in the time of 
 the greatest extension of the French dominion, telegraphic despatches 
 were often conveyed from the Ionian Isles to Paris. On the left the 
 town is commanded by the citadel, erected on a rugged rock, sepa- 
 rated from the land by a deep foss, admitting the sea on both sides. 
 The streets are pretty regularly built, and the inhabitants may, in 
 number, amount to twenty or thirty thousand. The garrison con- 
 sists of about two thousand British soldiers : they complain much of 
 the hardness of their duty, as their number is not sufficiently great 
 for the extensive fortifications they have to guard. There are 
 several inns, one of which is kept by an Englishman : there is also 
 a small theatre, at which Italian operas are represented. The 
 churches are numerous, among which is one particularly remarkable, 
 
CORFU. 231 
 
 that wherein is preserved the body of Spiridion, a saint much vene- 
 rated by the inhabitants of Corfu. His relics are inclosed in a massy 
 coffer of silver : they are annually paraded about the town in great 
 ceremony, guarded by a detachment of soldiers, and followed by the 
 principal persons of the island. Of the political importance of 
 Santo Spiridione, some idea may be formed from an order given, 
 not long since, in the Ionian senate : * — 
 
 Risoluzione del 14 Jgosto 1818. 
 
 Sopra oggetti di Culto Pubblico 
 E Risoluto quanto segue : 
 
 Art. I.» La Processione del Tavmaturgo Santo SPIRIDIONE Protettore 
 dell' Isola di Corfu, del 27 Luglio, anniversario dell' apertura delle Barriere, 
 per la miracolosa cessazione della Peste avvenuta nell' anno 1816, mediante 
 le di Lui fervide Preci all' OMNIPOTENTE, avrà annualmente luogo nel 
 giorno 23 Agosto, anniversario della liberazione dell' assedio Ottomano, 
 accaduta miracolosamente l'anno 1716 per la stessa pia mediazione. 
 
 Art. 2.° Detta Processione si porterà sopra luogo in faccia al cantone di 
 Lefchimo dell' Isola, ed ivi saranno rese grazie all' OMNIPOTENTE per 
 detti fausti avvennimenti. 
 
 Art. 3.° Questa Risoluzione sarà pubblicata a conoscenza universale, e ne 
 sarà spedita copia al Reggente di Corfu, al Capo Ecclesiastico Interino, e al 
 Magistrato alla Religione di detta Isola, per la di lei esecuzione. 
 
 BARON THEOTOKY. FREDERICK ADAM. 
 
 F R E D. H A N k E y, L. A. C. pro tempore. 
 
 Inter. Segret. del Senato Per Comando di Sua Eccellenza, 
 
 pel Dip. Gen. fred. hankey, 
 
 Segretario Privato. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Corfu, is adorned with gardens, olive 
 grounds, and vineyards : although not very romantic, the scenery is 
 by no means void of beauty. A good road of three or four miles 
 leads to a spot called, by the garrison, the one-gun battery, from a 
 
 • Many will perhaps be surprised to see the names of British officers subjoined to a resolu- 
 tion ordering the procession of a saint's relics ; but this is not the only instance of religious incon- 
 sistency produced by political motives. 
 
232 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 cannon placed there. This is the place where Ulysses is said to 
 have landed, and hence you have a beautiful view of the sea and 
 surrounding country, covered with olive and orange trees. The 
 battery overhangs a strait, which admits the waters of the sea into a 
 lake called the Limne, the extent of which is so great, that it ren- 
 ders the neighbourhood of Corfu excessively unwholesome during 
 the autumn and summer. In the middle of the strait rises a rock, 
 on which is placed a small country house, belonging to the bishop 
 of the island ; it is known under the name of Ulysses' Ship, and, 
 from the ruins of a wall still visible, it appears to have been once 
 united to the land. In the vicinity of this place are seen many 
 ruins, which indicate the position of the ancient town of Corcyra ; 
 such, at least, is the opinion of many antiquaries. 
 
 We saw several country houses building near Corfu. A new- 
 market has lately been erected, and we were told that many im- 
 provements had taken place since the arrival of the English troops ; 
 one great proof of which given to us, was that a neighbouring farmer 
 had actually set up a cart and horse to bring his vegetables to 
 market. 
 
 The establishment of an English garrison here has, you may 
 readily conceive, given to this island somewhat of the appearance of 
 a British colony. The sign-boards are mostly written in English, 
 and in the same language the inhabitants not unfrequently offer 
 their commodities for sale to travellers : indeed, were it not for 
 the wise measures adopted by the present government for the 
 re-establishment of the language of these islands, it seems probable 
 that the English would have a much better chance than even the 
 Greek of supplanting the Italian, now generally used. So much 
 was the Romaic neglected under the Venetian aristocracy, that, 
 until the invasion of the French, it was regarded as a disgrace 
 for an Ionian to be able to speak his native language. The French 
 established a press at Corfu, with types both Greek and Roman ; 
 this press, bearing the title of Tuxoyj«ct>j« *% àioixfaeus, or Printing 
 Office of the Government, still exists : every edict of the government 
 
CORFU. 233 
 
 is published in Italian and Romaic. From the same press issues 
 weekly a Greek newspaper. 
 
 At the time we were in Corfu a university was about to be 
 established in the island of Ithaca : the project, I understand, will 
 ere long be put into execution ; and if the plan be so arranged, that 
 no jealousy may exist between the Lord High Commissioner of the 
 Islands and the Chancellor* of the University, there is little doubt 
 of the institution being extremely beneficial, not only to the Ionian 
 Islands, but also to the other parts of Greece. The sons of the rich 
 Romaics will no longer be obliged to seek an education in the 
 universities of Italy; the literature of modern Greece will take a 
 stamp of nationality, and the language will then doubtless hold a 
 respectable rank among the dialects of Europe : although I feel 
 convinced, that to endeavour to replace the language of Thucydides 
 in the mouths of his posterity would be an attempt as absurd as that 
 of substituting the manly language of Cicero for the harmonious 
 dialect now spoken by the inhabitants of modern Rome. 
 
 It is amusing to see the words of Homer applied to the common 
 chit-chat of modern times ; for however Romaic may differ from the 
 ancient Greek, all its terms may, with a few exceptions, be traced 
 to this latter; it will not, therefore, be considered an uninteresting 
 termination, if I add to this chapter a few extracts from the Corfu 
 papers, and the publications which appeared in that island during 
 my short stay. 
 
 AHAOIIOIH2I2. 
 
 TINETAI rNQ2TON AIA TH2 ITAPOT2H2, OTI THN EPXO- 
 MENHN AETTEPAN HTI2 EINAI H 2.g« TOT NOEMBPIOT, H 
 ATTOT EEOXOTH2 O AOPA MErA2 APM02TH2 AEXETAI 
 
 * The office of Chancellor is now filled by Lord Guilford, to whose exertions the establish- 
 ment of the University is owing. The philanthropy of this nobleman has so frequently been 
 evinced towards the inhabitants of Greece, that the traveller hears the name North pronounced 
 with eager gratitude in every village of the country. 
 
 Hh 
 
234 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 LTP02 XAIPETI2MON TOT ILEPI TA2 11 CIVA2 UFO TOT" 
 ME2HMEPIOT. 
 
 EK TOT nAAATIOT TH 28.j OKTHBPIOT 1818. 
 
 P. riEriEP APAEN, 
 
 O E. tv rip Srpar. Aopv<+>. 
 
 AHAOITOIH2I2. 
 
 Erniàri ó Ttugyiog Kovdtsxrig rs won Tarlai, ó ~Ba<rrà£og, \~kaQv6r, rag 2/ 
 rH ziryarug TzapzXÒóvrog ~%zvrz[/£giov rt]v vvxra aito ayvu^iarov riva àvov, viro- 
 xdru zig ri\v czznaffrriv t£ oo"7ry]riov rov UaXaioyupiri], rov ut\rj<riov iì$ rr,v 
 Ir'z^vav rS Ay : luàvvov, n TzXzffiovpyog Aervvopia wgotrxaXzl, xaì -apoffraCti 
 oKovg rag TLyxaroixovg ruv lavixwv rovruv Y.rapyjm va tpavzpuirciHri (A,z ■buo'tiv xaì 
 zìXixgivziuv, xaì va zsidcrwtri rov a'triov, 7] rov tv vito^ia a'iriov rotovrov EyxX^ca- 
 rog, xaì va ììuo~wo~i wpog rovg Tnovgyovg rr t g Aixaioo-WTig o'kag ìxzivag rag zìào- 
 •zoiqffitg, offag -/jfaXov 'zyy za) 7j%,zvpr\, àia va ovvrjéuiri va rov ^zcxz-rdcuiri xaì va 
 rov ■snàtruffi. Upozi$ottoiz7 àz ori OzXzi Tsaiàzùzrai, xaùug ó Nó^a-o; àtopi^zi, 
 cttoio; riùzXz rov ì)uo~r\ xaratyvyiov, r\ rov xgvi^ri, r) h%v r)hXz xsappritriairDr] va 
 ócuffri zxziv/iv tì\v elàoirotfitrtv r\ oitoia r]Sz7.zv àvoCXzxrri rov rorov, oirov avrò; 
 xar'zcpvyzv r] izgótpdri, xaì oxoiog 0z\zi vxaxovirzi zig rovro xaì èzkzi hdffzi z'iàr,<riv 
 zig o, ri rfezvgzi, èzKzi "hay&avzt piav àvrà^tov xaì àvaXoyov apotQnv. 
 
 E» rov 0<p<pixiov rrjg TtXz<riovpyov Acrrvvopiag, Ko£<po), 4 OxruQp'iov 1818. 
 
 M. KPOTM. E.^o? 7 Eipo^o; rng TtXzffiovgyov 
 May : IIAAOBAN. S A<rrvvopiag. 
 
 KOP$OI, 
 
 BPABEIA nPOTPEnTIKA. 
 
 Tò B^aSsToi' zxzlvo àia rr t v JLÌxovoypu<piav rrjg ziriarpo^ng rtjg Atrrgaiag, to 
 croio» iirgeiri voi <pi7.olìcoprì<r?i ó l^apaiv QEOTOKI02» rt)v r^zpav rtjg 1v<rrd<rzt>g 
 rr,g Aiotzqirzug (oga r\v \rakixr\v lL<p>]fAzpi(ìa, rag 31 M.a'iov 1817 tr*l[MK»(*ivtii) 
 6'zXzt àoèrj rt)v zrpurtiv luvvovagiov rùv 1819, xaff %v &avtiyvpi£zrai t) xar 'irog 
 "Eoerri rlrig avrt)g qpzgag, xaì rovro èì zXKzi-^/iv "Xwapo^ruv. Toiovra) rgoirai ri 
 oiavof/.r) rùv rpiuv "iHo^KT^druv, rd oróla wpoirztyzgzv ò avrog dia ra 3 xa'KXiurz^a 
 izovr^ara Ayyhiirrì crvyyzypapfAtva (ooa rr)v lra\ixr)v Y.^ri^zp'iia, rag 20 rov 
 
Corfu. 235 
 
 3,zirrzpt,Coiov tu» 1817 cyipeziupezv^v) dvaQ>aK\zrai zug rqv rsguTr\» lavvovagiov 
 ru» 1820. 
 
 H X.rov vtgo(r(p'zgzi àzó{/,?i xa) rd àxohovèa riccaga Bga£z7a àia rn» ■agurr.v 
 lavvovagiov ruv 1819. Ef mzg) Tzugyixqg, èi oiroiov ijh'ke ffvvafy (zig rqv luvizrjv 
 Y^irixgdrziav) xaff o7.o» toh y^govov ruv 1818 mzgiffaoTZga TzupviXa, zig yugaQio» 
 d<pogo» cr'irov. Kv wzg) TAuériyMTixùv Y,iritrrr!f/jùv, Vi oirio» qózXz tsappnffidffij ro 
 xa7.Xturzgov M.adriU,arixov wóvr t pt,a xarà rr\v xg'icriv rov AiàctffxdLXov YLagavrivov. 
 Ey vszg) ■sso7.irixY\g Agy^iTZxrovixng, èl oiroio» %dz\e ■zsagaarric^ ro xaXkturzgo» 
 cyjàtov zvog Tiruy^ohoy^z'iov, zig to òiróìov yjXioi ceno rag avovg roórovg. rag à\'iovg 
 y.d.Xi<rra zXzovg, rjdzT-.ov rz7.ztu<ry rqv Zoir^v ruv, [lz o<pz7.og rr\g Y.irixgarziag, r/ris 
 upìttu vd rovg Zuorg'zfyq. Ef irzgì rng Nzoz7.7.r}vixfig (pi7.o7.oy lag xa) T"hca<r<rrig, hi 
 oiroiov qdzXz p>Ara(pgd<r/i xcchtuTZgov "i$zoz7.7.r,viffr) Tag Tgayuàiag rov Iz^irìg, ro» 
 M.axQ\r h/i'k : rov Kai<raga, rov Kogio7.dvov, n rqv Ara7.iav rov Vaxivovy zlrz dice 
 vr'iyuv, zirz we^a tu l<pzi. 
 
 E<? piav tu» zirct.xo7.ii6m "EtyrifMgiduv, 8zXav dripoffizvdn al rszg) tu» z^zrclcrzuv 
 diara^ng, ro zìòog tu» wgo<r(pzgoi/Avuv UgaQziuv, xcù o7.a rà -azg) avruv a»ayxaia. 
 Yivzrai op,ug òrfKov, ori o'i "2vvdgofAqra) old rà ava zlg^zva Hga£z7a, rszg) ruv 
 oiro'iu» Òia7.ay£dvzi ro Hgóygappa rovro, tsg'zirzi va zt'vat zyxdroixoi avr'oyjovig 
 fAidg ruv JLirra. ÌSr,ffu» rou loviov. 
 
 IIOIKI AMA. 
 
 IXTOPIA TOY 1817./10U ETOVS THE NHZOY TQN KOP*QN. 
 
 O Hagaxrrig rov \Slf .peov Eroyj <rvvriòzrui diro Xzipuva xaèvygov, diro 
 Kag ogoFZgov, diro Qzgog ftgoyzgov, xocì àiro ùgatórarov Qèivóirugov. 
 
 Avzpuoi. ILirzidr) ro 7i7.too~rd<riov tixo7.ov6?i<tz f/À uv'zfAovg pezffr^Qgivovg, avrò) 
 lirzxgdrriira» òvu pirivag. ÌA'ia avga \x rìjg Avtrzug rag 20 rov Ozvgovaglov 
 Opzgz pia» eraèipav %zo~ngiav 'zug óirov q iffr^zpla zo-rzgzucrz rov àvrtxov Avz^cv, 
 oo-rig f^dg z^zèixtjos» zig ocra virztp'zpapz». Kara ro Q'epog ó xougog \yaKaaz» zig 
 Taf riftzgag rov fotoo-rao-ia. Ol vortot àvzpoi ipàv/itrav ori r\èz7.av va xvgtzvcrutri, 
 xaì fi,àg 'ztpzgav figo^àg, xa) àvz/jt,ovg trrzgiavovg rov Avyovffrov : AXXà rov liv- 
 rzpQgiov ri IfftifAZgia iffrzpzuaz ro» Avrtxov dvzp^ov, ò óirolog pàg zQzgz xaXov xai- 
 go» zig oXov ro hacrrìpea rov Qùivoirugov. Al v;zg\ rù» faiaxùv zirippom ■aagecrn- 
 gnazig rov Tcàxèov, à7\tì@zv<rav xa) xard ro» y^góvov rovro». Ugoyji. 07mi al 
 
 Hh2 
 
236 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 fiS Z e S a ' ty* e f°" ìro* 132. "Vvyog. To pt,iyaXr]rigov 'iyivt rov Oevpovàpiov 
 feriva xara ro ®ip[A,o[Airpov rov Yiupovg, 'iug ùg rriv 'ixrr\v polputi iiràvuèiv roti 
 priàivixov tr»ifAiiou. Kuvp,a. O ùàgupyvgog àv'iQri 'iwg rriv 23. t '"' orav iQvcrovtruv 
 avepot crnpiavoi rov Avyacrrov. OóiXXui } Né<p>?, Xiw, Suff^oì xr. Ai zsgurai 
 itpeguv yJtXuZuv. Tòv lovviov xaì rov lovXiov, rov OxrcóSpiov xaì rov ÌHoì[a,Qpiov 
 rixovcrdritrav Bpovrai. H yjuv 'mitri ava <popa"ig rov Qivpovupiov ìiràvm ùg rag 
 xopvfàg rwv Bovvav rr]g N^<rou. Tug 4 li-rnp&g'iov rr\v vvxrcc rjxovcruv sroXXo/, 
 xaùùg lìxov, 'iva. ~2iicrpt,óv. 
 
 Bapopirgov. ~E.o~ra.0n nràvrore fattfir/Xufiivov, 
 
 Hgoiovru. To E«£ oXiyov iQoriùrjcri ro "Stragi. To xàèvypov ésgog, ro òirotov 
 ro i<p6api nXuug, ixapi xaXov ùg rà xaXapiróxia. H Nìjcrog ixa^i 60 yj>. 
 poàiu uno rà trirupru rrjg. Tò YLpucrì 'iytviv oXiyocrrov, aXXà \\uigirov, innàri 
 ra upniXia iCripiuèricruv otto rr/v vygutr'iuv rovg [/Jr]vag òirov r) ivipyuu rov HX<oy 
 sivai uvayxuiu. To tspoiov rovro r)f/,-rogi7 va (pducrri sag ùg 40 yjà. BugiXXug. 
 A< onupui iXu£uv rr\v iàiuv rvyyv. Y.va pipog avrwv ìcruirri, xui iva aXXo 
 i[Aiiviv àyovpov. UoXv %óprov àia rà £ùu \9ipìcr6ri. H EXa/a, à<p' ov ivrvyàg 
 avQr}<riv, iviàvvapuèij \x v'tov àia fiicrov rùv Avrixuv Imppoà» roti tyèivoirugov. To 
 zrpo'i ov rovro ìfMrogsì va Quattri icog eìg 200 yà. BagiXXug. 
 
 Appaxrriut. Ev ocra nrov yjnpuvug r]xoXov6rjcruv ilg rr\v t^rjcrov xwxoiat xsXiV' 
 gtriàig xaì uxoitXrfe'iui. IÌ££< rà rsXrj rov 'iapog oXiyoi zsvgiroì cpùogonoioì 
 iirixpàrt)trav ùg ocra pigri rr)g N^<row tt'vai àvtrxoXov va puruQtpacriv àXXuyjov rà 
 viga, xaì uvuyxuiov va ^t-pàvaicri rovg Xi[/ivuàng ronovg. O'i zsigioàixoì tsrvgiroì 
 ivóyXricruv ro <pdtvoTupov rov %povov rovrov xsipitrcroripovg avovg airo rovg aKkovg 
 y^póvovgt àia rr\v im'pporjv iffcog rìiv trrigiavùv ùvi&uv rov Avyovtrrov. 
 
 OiXony^via. H Tiupyixri, rì-v óxo'iav a'i ffvpt,<popuì -soXXuv Aluvm pàg ixupov 
 va xaru<Pgovr]crufit,iv, àgyj£ii zsuXn va ìlvai ùg ripr\v. ó TaCàxog àpyjt\\u va xaX- 
 Xagynrui pi xipàog, à<p' ov ó xadiig tjfiwrógu va rov crirùgn. H trvva^ig ruv 
 Yio)(AriXav iìvat woXXa ■aXoviriO'ita.poyog. Tà àia tpóprupua xaì crtyuxrà t\ùu, ocra 
 ivp'icrxovruì ruga ùg rr/v Nrjcov, n'vai tsigiffcrorigu airo ra rsgura. 
 
 Tiyyai, Y.pyacrrr\gia ì ILiiponyv'iaiy Avu rifateti ùcri)yj)t'cruv eoa rov tsagovra 
 fapóvov, ri roti HuXofóov, rjyovv, xaì r) rov BiQXtoàirov. Ef«s Ttppavog %vXupyù 
 crxivri, rà oiro~iu t^icrSvrai ftì \xCiva rrjg Tippt,aviag, xcù ò Bi&Xioàirng àovXivei pt,i 
 oXriv rr)v hriXiiav. Aixa %à : raXXapa rov fapóvov pkvovcn rovXayjcrrov ùg rn* 
 Hìjcrov oWò ravra. H Karucrxivrj rov lairuviov àiriQri ivnXrig. 
 
Corfu. 237 
 
 Clpaìat T'tyniai. O IlavXoj ó Ktgxvga7og avexaXv^ev 'iv [ji.dpfji.apov dpfjuóitov 
 il aytt.hu.ot.ru,. H H§OToy.n tov YiXaruvog, rìjv òwo'iav xanffxtvafftv ò '/hog avrò; 
 u.dg rò imGtt.Qa.KH. Ano rtjv Ti^orofiriv rxvrriv xttrsirxivdo-Qriirxv haQogx aXXa 
 àvrirvira kiro yv-^/ov, à<p' ùv xofffuovvrai o'i oìxoi ruv JLvytvuv, xat rj rtyvrt avrr\ 
 'iyivtv %hi xXrigovopia rov Kdvovg. TIoXXo) fiadrira) tvììoxif/.ovo'iv tig to 'ì.y^oXùov 
 rrig \yvoypa<plag, rqg Zvypacpiag, rrjg TXvirrixrig, to oiroiov rivoiì£tv é tstpl<prjfj^og 
 ovrog o-vfAiroXirrig rjfLuv. O Avrmiog B/XXaj ó Ktgxvga7og rivoli vs^og rovroig uCi 
 tsoXvv th £r\Xav xa) fit 'o<ptXog ruv fiadrirùv tv aXXo 1^oXt7ov rng Ap^irtxrovtxrjg. 
 Tà àvu ravra lyfiXua, that rd wgatru dtp' ocra to'va'rriério'av ùg rtjv EXXao*a 
 (Aèrei rnv txirrutriv ruv Ttyvuv. 
 
 JLfAxógiov. Yitpitrffónpa aito 40 Kagà£;a, xrrjfAa ruv Ktgxvguiuv, xa) aro 
 rovg avrovg àgfi.aruf/.iva, hiirXtvirav rò Ahptarixov, ro M.t<róyaiov, xa) virìjyav 
 xa) ùg tjjv Mavprjv QdXuo'o'av, ha va, ftpuinv air txti trirugiu, xa) aXXag 
 wpay[Aarsiag eìg rqv Uargthz. AXXa xagaGxa oXuv ffy^thov ruv JlOvuv t<p9a<rav 
 ùg rrtv N5j<roc ravnjv» hd vd <pograo~u<ri Adhov, Olvov, AXag, Flora ■avtvf/.aruhri 
 xa) aXXa stay. — Tgict AyyXixd òiririrta rivoi%av thZ Airodrixag. — Tò Adhov 
 tiruXrièri tv 5 tffvvdytro 18 TaXXapa rrjv Ba^eXXav, à<p' ov ù'iXovv fn.ùvr\ ft.tr 
 oXiyag firivag thù 3 fiiXXiovia TaXXaga. To "Xirdpiov riyopaffèri tèa 8 "TaXXapa 
 ro Móò^ov, xa) ra. EvXa rrig (puriag 3 TaXXapa rr,v yj,Xidh%. 
 
 <S>tXoXoyia. A^yfi^wri va, cirovhi£pvv rapa rqv AyyXtxrjv TXu<r<rav virò ròv 
 Aihio'xttXov KovX<ro>. H EXXqwcq àvaXaf/.Qdvn viróXrf^/iv : B£a£s7a riva, tu 
 òirola itptXocìagrifftv ò Aìàto'ifAog Ytugytog Ovlvox, ó zspìrog Itgtvg rm tig rag 
 Yjtapyjag ravrag ffr^anv^arm rng A. M. vipog 3 Néovj, o'irtvtg tvìoxifA>]irav tìg 
 rti> o~irovàtiv ravrjjv, vsa^urgvvav àf/,iXXuv tòytvrj, ri óiroia (Zonuovpivri àiro xaXovg 
 NÓ/A0V5, è'tXtt ytvn tuQogog pifyt. ai tri ai* tiraxoXovdtùv. 
 
 Tà xtvovvra paXiera, r\p.ag ava tìoùv, ópoiórrig re xa) ixapdàsiypM. 
 
 (e.) 
 
 nPOTPEIITIKA BPABEIA. 
 
 E|« aTÒ rà Bfa^gra, òieoZ q T-^nXÓrng rov ò BAPON 0EOTOKH2 
 
 iirgoQaXt, àia va tpvfyvyjufy rovg viovg ruv Y.itapyjuv rovruv ■Réòg rriv ffirovhqv rrjg 
 AyyXixqg àiaXtxrov (oga rrtv 10. T,|V luvixriv Eqirifjt.Bpiàtt.) ò EvXaQicrrarog Kvgtog 
 OviXiuf/. Tqcdìtt, AyyXog (Tirovoatórarog , xa) xarà rò ■napov ììiarp'iQmv ùg rrtv 
 MaX rav, tin&vp.mrag sreXXà va ^ori&ijo'n rnv tit'ihotnv ruv f$tw ùg rò \wtov, ùg 
 
238 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 xdds eidos paùr,<nug, 'vKOiryjirai va yap'iar\ itpog oaovg diroitiyjuffiv cintai ruv 
 Kpoppr,ùivruv BpaQeluv, rà trvyypdppara ruv hvu itipi<Qriporàruv \o~roptxuv Tpat- 
 xuv, xeni riti TiPi^ofjTov rng VtiroPixqg Ai$a<rxaXov, per atppair piva ùg rqv 
 AyyXixriv AiaXtxrov, xuì èepptva ùpaiórara. 
 
 T« Hvyypdppara avrà èiXu oiap.oipdfyvrai xarà rov àxóXovùov rpónov. 
 
 Upog cmiov XaCy ro -KPurov BpaQsTov, ùeXu yap'iZpvrai rà ~2vyypdppara ri 
 Eipohórov. 
 
 Tipog oiroiov ro àevrepov, rà ILvyypdppara rov Oovxvàlàov. 
 
 Ufog ovoiov ro rgirov, ree Ivyypàppara rov Af}t/.oo~9ivovg. 
 
 BPABEIA nPOTPEIITIKA. 
 
 Kara rà Iqpotmvuivra %ìp) ruv BgaQiluv Ixs'nuv, rà òirola, ?rpoo"i(pipsv ó 
 BAPON 0EOTOKIO2, (ooa rh YraXixh Etypigà* 10. T «" rov ApiÙ,~) 
 ylverai orjXov rolg vàci, d. T " ori h ruv rtovm hog ixdtrrx ruv Hvvàpopriruv Kpio~tg, 
 0iXei y'ivn dito 'iv JLcpooùov ìifizcìpevov Iv Kogvtpolg, ro òirolov éiXsi cvcrrìSn \v xaipu 
 svdéru, xaì ol UoXirtxo) Atoixqrdgy^ai ixderng Ntjcou ÓìXovfi ntpirri eìg Avrò, ro 
 àiroriXecpa pira, ruv rrigi avrov iyy^atyuv Avatyoguv. /3.?°" Ori o'i ~2vvopop,Yirai 
 hià rà BgaCùa rìjg AyyXixrig TXutrirrig, ruv NlaSriparixuv, rrjg Apyj.rixrovixng , 
 xaì ryjg JLXXqvixqg <£>tXo7^oyiag, ìììv è'iXoviriv vTrepQatvì] ròv 20."" y^póvov rìjg 
 riXix'tag ruv. y. T " Ori tj AwXoiXXqvtxri Wliràtpgafftg ruv Nsuriguv Tgayuàiuv (<yj 
 (l'arai Iv rv\ àvuripa Etynp.) irpeitu va ypatyy ni£rj> V ì» ertyjotg ov% ópoioxara- 
 Xr.zroig, h typàtrig ài rìjg yXuirirng kpstsi va ópoidfy, otrov ro àvvarov, pi ixeivrjv 
 rov Kvpiaxoàgopiov rov Apyjiiriffxoirov Oeoroxiov. 
 
 AxoXovùft r, ipirtPiffrarog Karaypatyrj ruv BpaQauv. 
 
 BpccGua, rtjg AyyXixtjg TXcóo~<rrig. Tpla "inopia-para (hvo ygwà, xaì 'tv 
 doyvpSv, e| uv ro pìv irpurov dvrd%iov 50 lima. TaX., ro à\ àtvrepov 20, xoù ro 
 rpirov 12) iTicp'tpovra rnv Aeqvav IXuioxXccdovy^ov, pira rr\g \%iypa.<pr\g rrig Ol, 
 Ef rn Uargtàt. Ka< tv ru i%tgyu rov Nof/Jo~{/,cc.rog ìypvrot, rov Oì>var<rict. <pvya- 
 ùivovra rovg M.vq<rr7iga.g. 
 
 BpuSi7ov rtjg Teupyixr,g. Ev Nó^^a.» y^pvffovv (dvrot,%iov 24 Itrirav. T«X.) 
 imcpipov rov Tlv@c/,yópu.v, xaì Iv ru iì;igyu, rnv Uccvocxstav Oeuv, pera mg tm- 
 ypa^g rr^g ^5, Epyac'iag Kagirog. 
 
 BpaQilov rng EXXrwmg QtXoXoyiag. Ev Nópirpu, %pv<tovv (dvrdliov 30 
 
corfu. 239 
 
 Icrirav. TaX.) tirttpigov rr)v MiXvofAzuqv, xetì tv ru 't^zgyu, rr,v riy,r)v (lira, rrjg im- 
 ypet<pr]g rr]g tit, Tlovu xretreti. 
 
 Bpctfiuov ruv Met0riy,etTixuv. Ev "NùftifffAO, y^pvffovv {ù.vrei\iov 24 lev. Tech.) 
 ixitytpov rov TlXetruvet, xcti tv ru t\ipyu, Naof rr t g 2o<p/«s fAtret rr t g tiriypettyrig 
 tm tit, Ovtitìg Aytoptrgrirog. 
 
 ~BpetSt7ov rr]g \yjoyget<p\etg. Ev No^,«r^a y^pvffovv (^ctvret^iov 24 \air. TaX.) 
 siTity'tpov to "2v[a£o?<ov ruv riyvuv, (Atra, rrjg imyputpris Trig tit, E;'j rot ttiict. 
 
 YiPuQiiov Tr\g Apyjrixrovixr]g. Ef T$ófAé<rfAet etpyvpovv (àvret^iov 1 2 ltrxuv. 
 TaX.) inttpipov rr]v ti Bctvxitict, xetì rov Q>iXr]fAovct, (piXo^tvovvretg rovg Qtovg, xcti 
 It tu i%ipyu rr,v JLiprivriv, {Atra rr]g imypaip^g Trig tit, TLititioeng. 
 
 K O P $ O I. 
 
 'iHop'iZpp.zv yg'iog pug vet àvuyytiXufAtv, oti r) NtotXXrivixri fAtrettppetcig tov 
 UoXirtvfActrog, r) oitolet eXa?se etpyjiv viro rrjv fjritrTeta'ietv fAietg JLmrgoirtietg, rjTtg 
 crvvri&tTcti Itrco tov Y-xXetysxporetrov BovXtvrqv KofAr/Tet <S>o(rxetgtiriv, xetì cito rovg 
 JLvyivtcrretrovg Kupiovg A.p Irttpetvov, xetì A.g Uirgir£óffovXov, MeX;j rr)g Tipov- 
 ffictg, xeù viro rr)v ctfAtirov xetóotiriyriiriv xetì (pgovr'ttict rov Kvpiov UXetruvog Hirpititt 
 tov JLirurrctrov ruv TLotvuv ~2ypXttuv ruv Y.-7tetpyjuv rovruv, tXetCtv ritiri rtXog, xcti 
 itetpttió&ri tig rr)v Tvjroygettpietv diet vet rvxuùri. 
 
 Tò Tlpurórvrov lretXtxov HoXtrivfAct ìrvirudr; ritiri, xetì oXct rei Avrirviret 
 ivtytipiirdriffctv npog rov t\ Anoppriruv tov Ttvtxov AicifAtpio-fAetrog, ottov tivvetrett 
 Tag rig vet to XetQr/ kXtipovuv iv TciXXupov titet xetdt AvrirvTov. 
 
 EIAH2I2 TTHOrPAcDIKH. 
 
 E<s rqv Bttvvriv Tvnovovreti et\ Tgetyutiteti rov "SotpoxXzovg tig rr)v i$otXXrivtxr,v 
 AtctXtxrov, xetì [Aia, Xoyixr), et[A<portget rn 0<XoTowa rov t&oiSctKÓXXuvog luetv- 
 vttiov catto rr\v "SfAvgvriv. H rifAr) rov ttputov ~2uyygctfA[ActTog, tivcti 'cvcifAicu 
 tyiogiviov rrig Avyovcrctg. H ripr] rov titvrsgov, 'iva <ì>\upiov ypvróv. 
 
 Onoiog Xoittov QìXr](rii voi etToxrritrri ret avrà IvyypetpfAetrtt, rà ono'iet 01 
 xtTCtititviAtvot, xetì 01 <Pi7.oi.oyoi EXX^vs? iTretivovirtv, r)f/.7ropt7 vet etypoixrfiri tit rov 
 itiiov "Xvyygcttp'ict, o<rrtg tvp'ttrxireti tig to Tpurriov. 
 
240 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 KOPOOI, 21 Qevgovagiov. 
 
 NEKPOAOriA. 
 
 IHANNH2 ó 0EOTOKIO2, Evyahs Kigxvga7os, xa) largos, ànkèavi 
 ras 15 rov rgiypvros privos aito àgtftvrdrovs nodaygixovs n'ovovs, 77 %govm rqv 
 qXtxiav. 
 
 Avros iv no\vpa&ris Avijg, Hgriffroridiffraros, xa) imxXivitrraros ngos ro 
 ffvptytgov run 2vp,no\iruv rov, <rvvulìiv8ri ùs rov rdtfiov [Atra àaxgvuv, xa) tvtpqfMuv 
 wag o<ruv rov %yvugio~av. Avros ì%ièuxe xard èia<pógovs xaigovs dialoga novr\- 
 parta mg) Iccrgixrjs> o~vyyiygap,p,iva (ù xaXnv xgitriv xa) yvuffiv, xa) àffixi 
 pqrov, ori rgia ngaypara etvai rà {Jt,dXto~ra dvayxàìa ngos <rvvrrigri<riv rns àv&gu- 
 niva vyeias, h à<rxrj<ris, iri\:, il àiaira, xa) ti pergia svdvpia, ra ono~ia ixaXSvro 
 nag avrov, oXiyovr) ngo rns rzhivrns rov, oì rgus ftzydXoi largoi, onov àtyivtv 
 
 hxiffu rov. 
 
 Avros tXtys ngos rovrois ori aXXa rg'ia largtxà xa) o%i nigisiroriga ri<rav 
 zara rriv yvu^v rov àgpófaa eìs ro va t^oXodgtvuffi xànota ano ra roaov noXva- 
 gt0y,a nàdti, ocra xararaXainugóvci rovs àvovs : H Kiva èqX : Ivavriov ruv Ix 
 oiaXtippàruv xa) nsgioàixuv nvgiruv, xa) Ivavriov ruv ahvvapiuv rov trro^dy^ov : 
 ó Xègdgyvgos Ivavriov rov Apsgixavov nàQovs> nroi A<Pgoh<riov, xa) ro vàug Ivav- 
 riov ruv Fevy,arur[Auv. JLvófAiQv o avrost ori ai ntgiffffongai nigi r?j Zarixris 
 cixovopias vnoóetreiSt fftgi rtjs onaias yipoviri rà svyjcovhivrixa <rvyygcc{AfAoc.ra 
 ruv larguv, sìvai ivtyvCis [tovov, xa) h\v ù<poguo~iv eis rrsv éeganeiav ruv na&uv rov 
 àvègunivov ffuparos, aXXa t'is ras ffru^vXovs noXvXoyias povov. 
 
 ÌLàiroioi ano rovs à<pogi(Tfji,ovs rov, rovs onoiovs oi rovruv ziorip.ovis xgivovirtv 
 svXoyov xai &nu<peXes ngaypu va \xhu<ru(Ti èia rov rvnov, xai rovs onoiovs avros 
 àipijxev bis rnv o~riy{x.}jv rov éavdrovrov ngos rovs K.X*igovo(/,ovs rov ini rovru, 
 ÉtXovv rvnaQìj xa) ètaèo@>i offov rd^icrra. 
 
 Mas ygdtyovtrtv ano rrjv Aóvàguv, ori ò negi<pi]f/,os yyp>ixos "2tg Qptygzoos 
 Aa&S àviyugr\<TBv ixìifav, ha va xdpy iva ra^iihov tndvu lis rqv Zflgav r5j?f 
 YJjgunris. Tò B. A. T. ó Ugiyxtip Avrthoixrirris, upiXfitre ftir avrov ixavrjv 
 ugav, ngiypv va àvayugricrri. O ffxonòs rov ra%nììiov rov ini<rrr\p,ovos rovrov 
 àvìgos o%v iivai uXXos nagd va hèdfy h ngurois rovs Aiugvxràs rr\S Qidvììgas 
 
CORFU. 241 
 
 xa) rrjg Teppavlag và f^eray^eipi^uvrai rov ffpotyvXaxrixov Xv^vov, tov ÒtoIov avrog 
 ktpevpe, ha va irpoXay£àvi\ xa) va ifMroh£y rag òXedpiag àvappfèetg rùv hopvym, 
 v-a) eiceira và xàfAti eoxipriv elg rhv NeàvroXiv, evog reyvàirparog y^vpuxov, ro 
 óvoìov a'vrog etpevpe, ha và \\ìXìtty\ pn,e irepiGGOTepav evxoXiav rovg iraTvpovg tov 
 fLpxoXavov. 
 
 O àpyjuTrpàrriyog YÀpi<r(popò ^°Xji (&* rovg Ttegi avrò» e<p9ao*ev zig rriv 
 AyyXtav pe ro UaxSórov rrjg AitrCcóvag. Ayvoovpev tov cxotov tu elg rà ehi) 
 ra^ethov tov (rrparqyov tovtov, elg xatpov óirov avrog, xaStug ti^evpof/,ev, eivat ó 
 i^ova-iacTtig ruv crparevu^àruv rrjg UoproyaXXiag. 
 
 O Meyaj Aou| M/^a^X à<p' ov vneììeyji>i rag Tlpiyyiirug rrjg BatriXixyg 
 Oixiag, otriveg virriyov elg eirlcxe-ì^lv tov, àviyjóprio~ev eyjkg ffvvuoevpievog irapà tov 
 Iip OviX : KoyypeQe y xa) vaga tov Apyjìvrog NtxoXaov, ha và, nepieXÓri rà 
 evèórepa yJepn tov BairiXeiov. 
 
 O Hpiyyiif/ tov Atrio. Op>Q,ovpyov, \icctpprifftàtr6i/i irpog rijv BatriXurtrav, xa) 
 irpog rqv Ylptyxiir«r<rav JLXto~àQer xar lèiav' to péxXov txto àvèpóyvvov ò\v eiyjv 
 Ihj ùxófiti ó evag tov aXXov. 
 
 lhv q napa tov B. A. T. tov Wplyyiirog Avrthoixr/Tov ypa<peio~a xcù trraX- 
 èewa Et;otoX^ irpòg tov A.ovxa OveXivyrov, oir'orav elg to Ha.pto'o'iov eneQovXev- 
 éqGav tt\v (wy\v tov irpopprfi'evrog Aovxóg. 
 
 KAPATON-XAOT2, 14 Osvpvxgioo 1818. 
 
 " AxpiGtfAoi <£>iXe : (Ce evy^upiirrriirtv àxpuv rag e\i\yù hi òXiyiov Xe%ewv, irotrov 
 <rroyàc^o^ai tov eavr'ov^ov evrvyji, ór<, Qeia HLàpiri, àireCpvyare rr,v kpo oXiyov 
 xarà Trig £arig (rag cvppatpeltrav eiriQovXriv, xa) iróirov e^wpyicre t\v -<\/vyJiv px èva. 
 ro<rov àiràvùpwirov xa) ày^pelov roXf/,q[/,a. Y.yai paZri xa) ft,e rovg eiriXoiitovg oXng 
 rov TLdvovg Ttpenei và irgocrtyegu peyaXag evyapurrelag vpog ryv àxpav <S>tXav6pa>- 
 iriav Trig Qelag Hpovotag, eneihr) eirpo<pvXa%e p.\av Zwr\v róaov "xoXvtì^ov xa) 
 y^peiuhrj xa) ha rag vvoé'etreig Tag itXeov v-^riXàg rìig lètag f/,ag Tìarp'thog, xa) ha 
 rnv erviiT/ipriinv rrjg ]Lvpcu7raixrje H<rv%iag. Xuotg It) f^rixicrrov , rotrovrov ov<rng 
 
 li 
 
242 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Tfo? flf^dg ffo^vripov rqg o~ng fy>%g. Toikvtt) tlvai tj òig por arri tziSvptu rov 
 tiXixgivovg xoù àiuxuovg <$>tkovirctg, 
 
 TEnprioT. rov n. a." 
 
 O Bctg&iv Ko'kvxoX^óov, ò (aìtu^u ruv BovXtvrSv aXKog Ns<rr»£, dx'tOuvt 90 
 ygwm Kara, rr\v qXixiav. 
 
 O KófMig Aara«^{ ttpdafftv opov pz rov vlov tov tig rd hovrgd rov BdStv. 
 
 O Aòg$ B'tgtirQogh Ì7rctppq<rid(r0>] itgog rov Hgiyyixu, AvnèioixqTriv, xaì thud 
 ■zagd rov B. T.rov dxgocttriv tvèvg d<p' où t<pda<rtv tig rqv AyyXtuv. 
 
 Oaivtrai ori ó Aouf OviXkiyrov dvt^cógìjo-tv aito rov MfirgoiroXtv ruvrtiv 
 oXiyag y\pkgu.g itgo rrjg àiogiccg : to è\ u'tnov rovrov tlvai dyvaxrrov. 
 
 O Tlgiyynp Avnììtoixrirrig rivuyrkrjeri tfcdtg dito rijv Uoddyguv. xa) ix rovrov 
 dv'tQaXt rqv zig Bgiyrov ohomog'iu.v rov. 
 
 O Tgirog AgfcifluXdo-criog ifeg Xop Uócpupt, vsdvyti pà xdfo rgóirov xa) pit 
 xd6t uvtrrrigórriTCt, va itaffrgtva^ ro 7rctgctéctXuo~<riov Trig Tiocpuuixag ano rcc 
 Xri<rrgtxà Titola, rov Bovtvoffccrjgtg. 
 
 O Tlgiyx^ Atoxóxàog 'iyji crxoirov, xaSug Xtyoviri, va vvrdyri tig BiCpovù, 
 d^)' ov iirtirxstpUTi ro B. T.rov rov Tigiyyi-xa, Avrtàioixqrrjv. 
 
 O KófAijg Badovgffr vTrrjyt ro dntgaayJivov 1d££arov ilg to KXagtpiovr, ha 
 vu, iiri<rxz(p9ri rov Uglyyiirot, AtonoXbov. 
 
 BsQuiovrai, ori è'tXtt iytgdìj tv M.vtipt,uov tig to Movacrrrigiov rov Bt<rrpiv<rrtg 
 tig fAvqfAÓtrvvov rrjg Muxotgindog Hgiyymaro'ag KagXorrotg. 
 
THE IONIAN CONSTITUTION. 
 
 TREATY OF PARIS — COMPONENT PARTS OF THE GOVERNMENT — SENATE — THE MODE OF 
 
 ITS ELECTION — ITS POWERS LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY ITS ELECTION ITS POWER 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE IONIAN'S THEIR NATIONAL CHARACTER — LIBERTY OF THE PRESS 
 
 NOT ALLOWED IN THE ISLANDS. 
 
 BY the treaty of Paris, dated the 6th of November, 1816, it was 
 determined that the seven Ionian Islands, with their dependencies, 
 as described in a previous treaty between the Othman Porte and the 
 Emperor of Russia, should constitute one free and independent 
 state, under the denomination of the United States of the Ionian 
 Isles. 
 
 These states were placed under the immediate and exclusive 
 protection of Great Britain : at the same time also it was provided 
 that the islands should regulate their own internal organization, and 
 that, to give the necessary activity and consistency to their mea- 
 sures, his Britannic Majesty should nominate a Lord High Com- 
 missioner, who was to reside in the islands, and pay particular atten- 
 tion to the framing of their laws, and the establishing of a consti- 
 tution. This Lord High Commissioner was to determine a mode of 
 convening a legislative body, whose labours he was to direct towards 
 drawing up a constitutional chart for the United States, which should 
 afterwards be submitted for ratification to his Britannic Majesty. 
 
 The right of occupying the forts of the islands, and keeping 
 garrisons in them, was reserved for his Majesty : the payment of the 
 British troops settled in the islands, as well as the number of men 
 which should constitute the peace establishment, were to be regu- 
 lated according to the revenue of the islands, by aprivate agreement 
 with the Ionian government. 
 
 I i 2 
 
244 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Thus Corfu, after bowing to the different powers of Europe, and 
 seeing her land occupied by the Romans, the Venetians, the 
 French, the Russians, the Othmans, is now placed under the pro- 
 tection of the British government : the Ionian banner displays the 
 British Jack, and a lion, grasping seven darts — the type of the 
 number of islands constituting the state — Corfu, Paxos, Cephalonia, 
 Santa Maura, Zante, Ithaca, Cerigo. 
 
 The present constitution was drawn up under the direction of 
 Sir Thomas Maitland : after having received the sanction of the 
 legislative assembly, it was, on the 11th of July, 1817, ratified by 
 his Royal Highness the Prince Regent. To display, as briefly as is 
 consistent with perspicuity, its chief peculiarities, is my object in 
 this chapter. 
 
 The residence of the general government is placed in the capital 
 of the island of Corfu. It is decreed that the national religion of 
 the states is the orthodox Greek church ; but every other form of 
 Christian worship is tolerated and protected. The Greek is t;o be 
 regarded as the established language of the Ionian Islands ; but the 
 English may be vised in legal transactions. 
 
 The civil government of the states is composed of a legislative 
 assembly and a senate. 
 
 The legislative assembly is elected from the body of the electors 
 of the islands : the senate is elected from among the members of 
 the legislative body. All these elections, as well as those for the 
 judiciary offices, are valid only for five years ; at the end of these 
 the senators and the members of the judiciary body remain in office 
 until the new legislative representatives have been returned; they 
 are then re-elected or changed. 
 
 The meeting of the legislative assembly at the seat of govern- 
 ment is called a parliament ; they are to assemble on the first of 
 March, and continue assembled three months : the power of con- 
 vening or proroguing the parliament in case of urgency, is placed in 
 the hands of the Lord High Commissioner ; the power of dissolving 
 the parliament belongs to his British Majesty, designated by the 
 
THE IONIAN CONSTITUTION. 245 
 
 title, his Majesty the Sovereign Protector. As in the British parlia- 
 ment, it is determined that those bills which are not passed and 
 completed before the prorogation, cessation, or dissolution of the 
 Ionian parliament, shall be null and void. 
 
 I shall now proceed to explain in what manner the members of 
 each component part of the government are chosen ; I shall at the 
 same time explain the nature of the power and privileges belonging 
 to each. 
 
 Senate. — The senate consists of six persons ; one president, and 
 five members. The nomination of the president is reserved to his 
 Majesty the Sovereign Protector; it is made by means of the Lord 
 High Commissioner: the President must always be a native of the 
 Ionian Islands, and a noble. Of the five other members of the 
 senate, one is chosen from among the legislative representatives sent 
 by each of the islands — Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, and Santa 
 Maura ; the last is chosen from among the legislative representatives 
 sent by the three smaller islands — Ithaca, Paxos, and Cerigo. 
 
 These senators are chosen within the three first days of the first 
 sitting of parliament : the names of those elected are presented to 
 the Lord High Commissioner; if he ratify the elections, they 
 become senators of the island or islands for which they were chosen ; 
 but should the Lord High Commissioner give his veto to either of 
 them, it then becomes null and void, and the legislative assembly 
 proceeds to another election ; should that also receive the veto, the 
 Lord High Commissioner transmits to the assembly the names of 
 two members, one of whom they are bound to elect : — this privilege 
 evidently gives to the Lord High Commissioner great power over 
 the senate, from which (it would be useless to deny the fact) he can 
 exclude any individual obnoxious to himself. We must, however, 
 recollect, that to give to a people but lately escaped from the tram- 
 mels of Venetian tyranny, a government founded on the principle 
 of complete liberty, would not, probably, be followed by any good 
 consequences : the experiment has been tried in the late revolution 
 
246 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 of France ; — that nation shook off the yoke of despotism hut to 
 plunge deeper into the sanguinary gulf of anarchy and confusion. 
 
 The decisions of the senate are determined by vote ; in case of 
 the six being equally divided, the President has a casting vote. It 
 is divided into three departments — the General Department, the 
 Political Department, the Department of the Finances : each of 
 these consists of two senators and a secretary : the secretary of the 
 first department is nominated by the Lord High Commissioner; he 
 may be a native of Great Britain, or of the Ionian Islands : the 
 secretaries of the two other departments must be Ionians. All the 
 acts of these departments must be approved by the whole senate ere 
 they are considered valid. 
 
 The senate has the power of nominating to all the offices of 
 general government, the regents of the various islands, the judges, 
 &c. It has also the power of presenting to the legislative as- 
 sembly projects of law, and of disapproving, and thereby annul- 
 ling those which may have passed in the legislative assembly. The 
 whole of the executive power of the united Ionian states devolves on 
 the senate. 
 
 Legislative assembly. — The legislative assembly is composed of 
 forty members, the President included : this President is chosen ac- 
 cording to the same rules as the senators. Of the forty members of 
 the legislative body, eleven are integral, and twenty-nine eligible : in 
 the case of the parliament dying a natural death, the integral part 
 consists in the senate of the preceding parliament, the regents of 
 the four largest islands, and one of the regents of the smaller islands. 
 In the case of parliament being dissolved, the integral part, other- 
 wise called the Primary Council, is to consist of the six members of 
 the preceding senate, and five of the members of the last legislative 
 assembly, selected and named by the Lord High Commissioner. 
 
 Of the twenty-nine eligible members, Corfu, Cephalonia, Zante, 
 send each seven ; Santa Maura four ; Ithaca, Cerigo, and Paxos, 
 each one ; each of these three last sends, in its turn, an additional 
 
THE IONIAN CONSTITUTION. 247 
 
 representative. The eligible members are chosen from the body of 
 Sincliti in each island ; the election is performed in the following 
 manner : — the Sincliti choose from a list, containing a number of 
 names, double that of the representatives to be chosen in their 
 island : this double list is drawn up by the members of the primary 
 council, who determine the names by a majority of suffrages : after 
 the first meeting of parliament, when the senators have been chosen 
 from among the members of the legislative body, a new election 
 takes place, conducted precisely on the same plan, to fill up the 
 vacancies which thereby occur in the assembly. 
 
 The duties of the legislative assembly are nearly the same as 
 those of the lower house of the English parliament : the bills which 
 it passes must have the sanction of the senate and the Lord High 
 Commissioner before they can be received as laws. From the man- 
 ner in which the elections are performed, it will always necessarily 
 happen that the Lord High Commissioner has much influence over 
 the nomination of the members : whether that influence be too 
 great, is a question I shall not pretend to determine; in such a 
 question, indeed, it would hardly be fair for any person to deduce a 
 conclusion, ere he has, by long residence in the country, and atten- 
 tive consideration of the inhabitants, enabled himself to form a 
 proper judgment of the national character. In this age, as the 
 mania of constitutions spreads itself among the nations of Europe, 
 many foreign politicians seem to regard Britain as the country whose 
 government should serve as a model for other nations. In the 
 Ionian Islands many feel convinced that the adoption of the English 
 constitution could be attended only with evil consequences : the 
 nation is different in character; its component parts are totally 
 unlike those of the British nation ; — it is in vain we seek among 
 them that steady, sensible, and industrious middle class, which, in 
 Great Britain, strenuously resists the encroachments of the aris- 
 tocracy, and boldly supports the government amid the tumults of 
 infuriated and ignorant mobs. 
 
2-4S CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 What has been said in this chapter will, perhaps, enable you to 
 form some indistinct idea of the general government of the islands. 
 It is said that trial by jury will, at no very distant period, be intro- 
 duced into the states ; this grand step towards individual freedom 
 cannot be taken until a code of laws has been completed and esta- 
 blished in the country — an undertaking, the difficulty of which can 
 only be equalled by its importance. Under the Venetian govern- 
 ment the administration of justice seems to have been conducted in 
 a manner highly disgraceful to humanity ; prices were fixed for the 
 pardon of crimes, and the tribunals were, in their sentences, guided 
 by interest alone. It has been observed that the famed liberty of 
 Venice extended not beyond the islets which her magnificent build- 
 ings covered,: tyranny, cruelty, and avarice, characterized the govern- 
 ment of her colonies : — strange, however, as it may appear, the change 
 of the Venetian government is, by many in the Ionian Islands, re- 
 gretted : whether the discontent is caused by that restlessness natu- 
 ral to man, which urges him to oppose things as they are, or 
 whether it proceeds from any real grievance under the present 
 system, it would, perhaps, be difficult to determine ; I have, how- 
 ever, heard many Ionians, and some among them men of acquire- 
 ments matured by age, deliberately assert that they prefer the 
 tyranny of the lion of St. Mark to the protection of the lion of Great 
 Britain : under the Venetians, say they, we were tyrannised by 
 masters whose language was, as it were, natural to our ear, whose 
 character was nearly congenial to our own, and to whose govern- 
 ment a long series of years had taught us to regard our country as 
 inalienably belonging : now we are ruled by haughty masters, whose 
 lan<rua<xe, whose customs, whose character, whose religion, are 
 to us totally unknown, and who, under pretence of converting us 
 into a free and independent state, have given us a mock chart, 
 which only strengthens the more our bonds of subjection, inasmuch 
 as it makes all the principal men of our islands the mere puppets of 
 a Lord High Commissioner. 
 
THE IONIAN CONSTITUTION. 249 
 
 A printing-office, called the government press, is, as I before 
 observed, established in Corfu : an article of the constitution pro- 
 vides, that no other shall be established without the express consent 
 of the senate, sanctioned by the Lord High Commissioner. I am 
 not aware that the Greeks ever shewed themselves unworthy of pos- 
 sessing that mighty privilege which guards the subject's liberty, 
 stimulates his genius, and excites his industry — the liberty of the 
 press.* 
 
 * Those who may wish for a more detailed account of the Ionian constitution, are referred to 
 the Appendix, which contains the documents required to obtain full information on the subject. 
 
 Kk 
 
DEPARTURE FROM CORFU. 
 
 COURIER PASSAGE TO OTRANTO — GARRISON OF CORFU EMBARKATION — STRAIT OF 
 
 BUTRINTO — CEFALO, A SPECIES OF FISH LAST VIEW OF GREECE — STORM CONFU- 
 SION FANO LANDING AT OTRANTO EXAMINATION BY THE HEALTH OFFICERS 
 
 PERJURY OF THE CREW. 
 
 A. COURIER starts every fifteen days from the island to Otranto, 
 the nearest city of the Italian peninsula : with a favourable wind the 
 passage is easily performed in a few hours. A birth in the yacht, 
 which carries the mail, is obtained with little difficulty : we should 
 certainly have taken advantage of that conveyance, had we not 
 been informed that the road from Otranto to Naples was infested 
 by robbers, and impassable to carriages ; we, therefore, preferred 
 taking our passage on board a trabaccolo ; she was one of the ships 
 employed to import corn from Barletta to Corfu, and was about 
 to return on ballast. 
 
 We learnt afterwards, from a more authentic quarter, that the 
 horrid description given to us of the Otranto road was a complete 
 misrepresentation, originating in the total ignorance of the indi- 
 viduals who had drawn so highly a coloured picture of the dangers 
 and miseries of the journey. The road from Otranto to Barletta is 
 unquestionably better than from the latter place to Naples. At 
 Otranto, the tedium of quarantine is likewise much diminished, by 
 the great liberty given to travellers, who, after pledging their honour 
 not to communicate with the peasantry, are even allowed to make 
 shooting excursions in the neighbourhood of the town. At Barletta 
 the traveller is shut up in a dirty building, the court-yard of which 
 is hardly sufficiently extensive to allow him to stretch his limbs, 
 torpid by confinement : at Barletta the traveller in quarantine is 
 
DEPARTURE FROM CORFU. 251 
 
 treated as a convict ; at Otranto he is allowed the comforts of a 
 prisoner on parole. 
 
 Considering the proximity of the Ionian Islands to the coast of 
 Italy, I was surprised to find the garrison, generally speaking, 
 entirely ignorant of the state of the neighbouring country. It has 
 been remarked that soldiers, placed for any length of time in one 
 town, lose all activity of mind, and become indifferent to surround- 
 ing objects ; to the truth of the observation I feel inclined to assent. 
 The only amusement of a soldier, garrisoned at such a place as 
 Corfu, is sauntering on the fortifications, lounging through the 
 streets, and abusing the natives ; vice naturally ensues, and the 
 town becomes a seat of dissipation and libertinism. These reasons 
 would, perhaps, authorise government to change the garrisons of 
 their forts oftener than now is practised ; but, in military affairs, the 
 morals of the soldier are, I fear, the last thing attended to ; even 
 those regulations which have been made on the subject are but too 
 often neglected. When we were at Corfu, the service was not per- 
 formed on one Sunday because a little wet had fallen in the 
 morning ; on the following Sunday, a circumstance equally frivolous 
 was alleged as an excuse for a similar neglect : three hundred men 
 (I state the fact with reluctance) had been garrisoned twelve months 
 in the island of Santa Maura ; during the whole of that period, they 
 had never an opportunity of attending divine service, as no chaplain 
 is attached to that part of the Ionian states. 
 
 Our trabaccolo was called the Madonna de sette dolori; I can- 
 not help fancying that Madonna de' sette mila dolori had been a 
 much more appropriate appellation, so little was her appearance 
 calculated to diminish that repugnance which some landsmen feel to 
 a sea voyage. A miserable and dark cabin, filled with active ver- 
 min, and emitting a mingled odour of goats' cheese, tar, salt fish, 
 and putrid grease, was the only place in which we could crawl, to 
 escape the inclemencies of the weather. 
 
 We beat out of the harbour, assisted by a freshening breeze, 
 which promised us a favourable voyage ; we darted through the 
 
 Kk2 
 
252 
 
 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 narrow strait which separates the island from the shore of Albania. 
 In the middle of this strait rises a rock, which it has, I am told, 
 been more than once in contemplation to fortify: had that plan 
 been carried into execution ere the pashà of Albania had pos- 
 session of the opposite shore of the continent, it would have been 
 easy to render the strait unpassable to an enemy's fleet. I do 
 not perceive that any real advantage would have been thence 
 derived, as the circuit of Corfu can, with a fair wind, be made in a 
 very short time. The continental shore of this strait abounds in 
 mullet, called here, as in some parts of Italy, Cefalo, a term, per- 
 haps, deduced from the size of its head ; the roe of the female, 
 salted and dried in the sun, constitutes one of the greatest luxuries 
 of a modern Greek table. The village of Butrinto marks the pro- 
 bable site of Buthrotum. 
 
 As we quitted the strait of Butrinto, the wind, continuing fair, 
 blew brisker and brisker ; the moon, rising with a halo, portended a 
 tempest ; two reefs were taken in, and the sailors, wrapped in their 
 hooded coats, paced backwards and forwards, eying with anxiety 
 the turbid appearance of the sea and sky. I remained on deck till 
 night concealed from my view the shores of Greece and the moun- 
 tains of Acroceraunium ; — in spite of the disappointments which I 
 had experienced, and the fatigues which I had undergone during 
 our journey, I could not help feeling some regret at the idea that I 
 was, probably, for the last time in my life, looking on that classic 
 land. 
 
 In the course of the night a sudden gust of wind carried off our 
 main-mast ; the noise awoke me from sleep ; I crept through the 
 hold into the forecastle, and thence got upon the deck ; the scene 
 of confusion which presented itself baffles description ; the rudder 
 was unshipped, the mast was by the board, and the trabaccolo, a 
 complete wreck, was drifting towards a rock, distant about one 
 league, on the starboard bow ; as the vessel, yielding to the swell, 
 heeled alternately from side to side, the boom of the foresail swung 
 to and fro, threatening to carry over-board all who stood upright on 
 
DEPARTURE FROM CORFU. 253 
 
 the deck. Our sailors, seventeen in number, were running from 
 prow to stern, unconscious of their duty; screams, shouts, and 
 oaths were heard on all sides, and every sailor seemed to have 
 become captain ; some fell to chopping the boom from the mast, 
 while others were cutting the ropes : the whole was a perfect picture 
 of insubordinate cowardice ; and had not the wind, as providentially 
 as unexpectedly, ceased to blow with such violence, we should most 
 probably have terminated our Grecian tour with the adventures of a 
 shipwreck. Most happily, after three hours' buffeting, the hurricane 
 ceased ; it was succeeded by a light eastern wind : the rudder was 
 again lodged, and a jury-mast was raised. We passed near Fano, 
 by some supposed to be the ancient Ogygia, or fabled residence of 
 Calypso, a rugged and sterile rock, inhabited by a few miserable 
 fishermen. After a few hours, we entered safely the harbour of 
 Otranto. 
 
 The yellow flag, flying at the mast, indicated that we came from 
 a suspected country, and soon after we had cast anchor, we received 
 orders to repair on shore ; all the crew, from the captain to the 
 cabin-boy, quitted the ship, and we rowed towards land. The 
 castle, for there is a Castle of Otranto, is very dilapidated ; the 
 marks of English balls are still seen in the stone walls ; the harbour 
 is far from safe; the waves are seen, in more than one place, curling 
 over the concealed rocks, and a few fishing-boats only are drawn up 
 on the strand. 
 
 As we landed we were met by the officers of health, guarded by 
 a detachment of miserably- clothed custom-house soldiers, armed 
 with rusty muskets : of the party was also the physician of the town, 
 a gentleman neatly dressed, whose physiognomy bore the stamp of 
 good nature, and whose corpulence would have honoured even an 
 English Boniface : he was accompanied by the British vice-consul, 
 a sallow-countenanced and raggedly-clothed fellow, whose only 
 superiority seemed to proceed from the large black cockade proudly 
 displayed on his dirty white hat. Our captain, standing at a dis- 
 tance, shewed his bill of health from Corfu ; the physician then 
 
254 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 ordered us to strike our armpits and hips, the spots where the 
 plague-ulcers usually make their first appearance : after this the 
 health officer read a short, but impressive discourse, shewing the 
 heinousness of the crime committed by him who willingly and know- 
 ingly introduces the plague into any country ; the captain was then 
 asked whether he had landed at any port or any shore since his 
 departure from Corfu — whether he had spoken to, or communicated 
 with any ship during the voyage — whether he, or any of his crew, 
 had picked up any wreck at sea ; — to all these questions a negative 
 answer was given : one of the attendants now picked up two small 
 pieces of bamboo, of which many sticks were scattered on the 
 strand; with these a temporary cross was formed — " thou swearest 
 that thou hast spoken truth," said the health officer — " I swear it," 
 replied the captain, placing his right hand on the sacred image, and 
 stretching his left towards heaven; — " you swear that your captain 
 has spoken the truth," said the health officer to the crew — " we 
 swear it," answered they, extending their hands over the cross. 
 Being travellers only, we were desired to pledge our honour to the 
 truth of what had been sworn by the captain ; we were likewise 
 desired to give our word that we would not infringe the laws of 
 quarantine, either by communication with the inhabitants, or other- 
 wise : two guardians were set to watch us, and our quarantine in 
 the Neapolitan dominions was allowed to reckon from that day. 
 
 I fear it will hardly be believed that the captain of our ship, who 
 must have been perfectly aware of the oaths he had to take on his 
 return to his country, asked our leave, before we departed, to touch 
 for some petty mercantile purpose, on the shore of Albania ; this 
 permission different reasons would not allow us to grant ; had he, 
 however, succeeded in his request, he could not have been admitted 
 to perform quarantine, unless both he and all his men were guilty of 
 the most cool and deliberate perjury : this crime (I shudder as I 
 state the fact) different questions I put to the captain and crew, 
 convince me they would not have scrupled to commit. 
 
OTRANTO. 
 
 CRUELTY OF THE TURKS NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE TOWN — ITALIAN PLOUGH DEPAR- 
 TURE FROM OTRANTO — LECCE — GENERAL CHURCH ROBBERS BRINDISI BARLETTA 
 
 THE LAZARETTO. 
 
 J. HE town of Otranto is said to contain no more than seven or 
 eight hundred inhabitants ; it is the see of an archbishop. The 
 ancient name of this city was Hydrus ; it was afterwards called 
 Hydruntum, whence was derived Odronto, subsequently changed 
 to Otranto, pronounced with the accent on the first syllable. 
 
 The distance from Otranto to the opposite shore is sixty miles. 
 A line drawn in an easterly direction from the promontory which 
 stretches out into the sea a little below the town, marks the boun- 
 dary of the Adriatic and Ionian seas. We are told that Pyrrhus 
 intended erecting a bridge across the Adriatic from this spot ; to 
 meditate such projects is far more easy than to execute them. 
 
 Otranto was stormed by the Turks under the command of 
 Achmet bashà : if the accounts of historians are correct, the cruelties 
 exercised by the conquerors on the ill-fated inhabitants disgrace 
 humanity : the surrounding country had been ravaged, and human 
 foresight could devise no means of resisting the foe : the people, 
 terrified and superstitious, flew to religion for help : the arch- 
 bishopj accompanied by the ministers of the church, and followed 
 by the principal inhabitants, advanced towards the Moslem army in 
 solemn and melancholy procession ; they relied on the assistance of 
 the Almighty, and hoped thereby to appease the sanguinary band. 
 By order of Achmet, the members of the deputation were seized, 
 and the venerable prelate, bound between strong planks, was sawed 
 in two. Since that time Otranto has never regained her ancient 
 splendour. Castles are seen on the shore, erected to awe the Turks : 
 
256 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 now that the Othmans have ceased to invade other powers, they 
 remain unfortified and neglected. 
 
 Of the interior of the town I can say nothing, for we were not 
 admitted within the precincts of the walls : the neighbouring land 
 seems rather stony, but it is cultivated with industry : the peasants 
 are dressed cleanly ; a jacket and knee breeches of coarse blue 
 woollen cloth — worsted stockings of the same colour — and a high 
 black conical hat, similar to that worn by the clown on the English 
 stage, constitute their dress, which is strikingly neat and comfort- 
 able. Their plough is one of the simplest of machines, without 
 wheels, bars, or chains ; its principal part is a bent stick, one end 
 of which, armed with an iron point, answers the purpose of a share ; 
 it is drawn by two oxen, which are yoked by their horns, and guided 
 with a bamboo cane : the buris of elm, the temo, the hince aures, 
 the stiva, are all easily distinguished in this plough, which seems to 
 have preserved its fashion since the days of Virgil : — 
 
 Continuo in sylvis magna vi flexa domatur 
 In burim, et curvi formam accipit ulmus aratri. 
 Huic a stirpe pedes temo protentus in octo, 
 Binae aures, duplici aptantur dentalia dorso. 
 Caeditur et tilia ante jugo levis, altaque fagus, 
 Stivaque, quae currus a tergo torqueat imos : 
 Et suspensa focis explorat robora fumus. 
 
 Those directions are still followed with careful nicety by the peasant 
 of Greece and Italy. 
 
 After staying some days at Otranto, and refitting our shattered 
 trahaccolo, we re-embarked, being allowed to reckon our quarantine 
 from the day we first touched the Neapolitan territory. This voyage 
 was made within sight of land ; a circumstance which enabled us to 
 see from afar the spires of Leece, a town said to be the second city 
 in the kingdom of Naples: it is in this town that resides General 
 Church, an Englishman in the Neapolitan service, whose exertions 
 have greatly contributed to the destruction of the bands of robbers, 
 which took the opportunity of the present king's restoration, to 
 
OTRANTO. 257 
 
 infest the southern parts of Italy : by the advice of Church, military 
 government was for a time established in this part of the country ; 
 the daring villains were attacked, conquered, and slain ; their skulls 
 and right arms were exposed on the road side, and their fastnesses 
 levelled with the earth. 
 
 The north wind obliged us to put into the port of Brindisi, the 
 famed Brundusium of the Romans. The entrance is by a strait 
 uncommonly narrow, in the middle of which stands a rock, guarded 
 by a castle, impregnable by its position as well as by its fortifica- 
 tions : this strait opens into the road, where an immense fleet might 
 anchor, sheltered from the most violent winds. A canal, about two 
 hundred feet broad, leads to the inner port ; the shores are bordered 
 by the quays of the town : this canal, a modern undertaking, has 
 been cut precisely in the direction of the Scirocco, or south-eastern 
 winds. The oversight of the engineer has ruined the harbour ; for the 
 gale blows mountains of sand into the port, the waters of which are 
 now so shallow, that the muscle fisher easily wades from one side to 
 the other, and, with a wicker scoop, raises the sand and the shell- 
 fish, which are mingled with it, in great quantities. The entrance 
 from the road to the port was by the Romans cut in a zig-zag direc- 
 tion. This passage, which modern improvers have partly filled, had 
 certainly the advantage of obviating, in some measure, a very great 
 disadvantage, to which all the Italian ports of the Adriatic are 
 subject. 
 
 The air of Brindisi is unwholesome ; many assert that in the 
 autumn months no more unhealthy climate exists in this quarter of 
 the globe. The inhabitants seem barbarous; and, as far as one 
 may judge by a first view from the port, their houses are mean and 
 miserable. In the front of the port stands a lofty column, the capital 
 of which is formed by cupids bearing a basket of flowers : the base 
 of another column is seen by the side ; this latter was thrown down 
 not many years back by the shock of an earthquake. These 
 columns are called the pillars of Pompey. It is said also that the 
 commencement of the Appian way is easily traced near the town. 
 
 LI 
 
258 CLASSICAL TOUR. 
 
 Provisions are, at Brindisi, extremely cheap; for the value of 
 half a crown we bought the two hinder quarters of a sheep, a great 
 quantity offish, much garden -stuff, and bread. 
 
 From Brindisi, an agreeable coasting sail brought us to Irani, 
 and thence to Barletta : here we remained to terminate our qua- 
 rantine. 
 
 The port is bad ; the only shelter against the Bore and Scirocco, 
 the two scourges of the Adriatic, is a ruinous breakwater. The day 
 after our arrival we landed, and, escorted by a few ragged soldiers, 
 were conducted to the Lazaretto, a miserable stone building, erected 
 on a small island at one extremity of the town, to which it is united 
 by a narrow bridge. After undergoing a long examination by the 
 Capitano del Lazaretto, we were admitted into the building : two 
 miserable rooms, open to the wind, unadorned with furniture, and 
 paved with bricks, were the lodgings in which we had to pass the 
 remainder of our quarantine, or contumacia, as it is termed by the 
 Italian sailors. The walls were covered with inscriptions in different 
 languages ; many French, Italian, and Greek travellers, seemed to 
 have endeavoured to charm away their ennui by daubing the walls : 
 names of Greek saints, terms of love in the French language, and 
 those of obscenity in Italian, are seen in all parts of the building.* 
 
 With much difficulty we set up our household in this miserable 
 place ; the only companion of our captivity being an aged and 
 avaricious Greek, who had come to keep the fair of Barletta with 
 capottes from Ioanina : this fair, one of the most important marts of 
 the south of Italy, was just ended, and our poor Greek, detained by 
 the contrary winds, had failed in his speculation. 
 
 At the end of sixteen days we were liberated from our incar- 
 ceration, and allowed to continue our journey ; or, in the language 
 of the Adriatic sailors, pigliammo prattica. 
 
 * I am told that in the Lazaretto of Marseilles an Arabian hand has traced the words, " Life 
 is the quarantine to eternity .-" the inscriptions of Barletta boast no such originality of thought. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 L12 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 Copia del Trattato di Parigi dei 5 Novembre 1815, tradotto in Italiano, e 
 communicato da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ' a tenore del Discorso dell' Eccellenza Sua indirizzato al 
 Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario. 
 
 IN NOME DELLA SANTISSIMA ED INDIVISIBILE TRINITÀ. 
 
 SUA Maestà il Re del Regno Unito della Grande Brettagna e dell'Irlanda; Sua 
 Maestà l'Imperatore di tutte le Russie; Sua Maestà l'Imperatore d'Austria, Re 
 d'Ungheria e di Boemia ; e Sua Maestà il Re di Prussia, animati dal desiderio di conti- 
 nuare le negoziazioni aggiornate nel Congresso di Vienna, onde fissare il destino delle 
 Sette Isole Jonie, e di assicurare l'indipendenza, la libertà, e la felicità degli Abitanti di 
 quelle Isole, ponendo gli stessi e la loro Costituzione sotto l'immediata protezione di una 
 delle grandi Potenze dell'Europa, convennero di fissare definitivamente per via di un 
 Atto speciale tutte le cose che hanno rapporto con questo soggetto; il quale Atto, fon- 
 dato sopra i diritti risultanti dal Trattato di Parigi de 30 Maggio 1814, non che sulle 
 dichiarazioni Britanniche fatte all'epoca che le armi Britanniche hanno liberato Cerigo, 
 Zatite, Cefalonia, Santa Maura, Itaca, e Paxò, debba considerarsi come formante parte 
 del Trattato generale conchiuso in Vienna li 9 Giugno 1815 nel terminar del Congresso; 
 ed affine di fissare e firmare l'Atto suddetto, le Alte Potenze Contraenti hanno nominato 
 dei Plenipotenziari ; vale a dire : Sua Maestà il Re del Regno Unito della Grande Bret- 
 tagna e dell'Irlanda, l'Onorevolissimo Roberto Stewart, Visconte Castlereagh, Cavaliere 
 del Nobilissimo Ordine della Giarretiera, Membro dell'Onorevolissimo Consiglio Privato 
 della Maestà Sua, Membro del Parlamento, Colonnello del Reggimento Centuriale 
 Londonderry, Segretario Principale di Stato per gli Affari Esteri della Maestà Sua; e 
 l'Illustrissimo e Nobilissimo Lord Arthur, Duca, Marchese e Conte di Wellington, 
 Marchese del Douro, Visconte Wellington di Talavera e di Wellington, e Barone Douro 
 di Wellesley, Membro dell'Onorevolissimo Consiglio Privato della detta Maestà Sua, 
 Feld-Maresciallo de' Suoi Eserciti, Colonnello del Reggimento Reale delle Guardie a 
 Cavallo, Cavaliere del Nobilissimo Ordine della Giarretiera, Cavaliere Gran Croce 
 dell'Onorevolissimo Ordine del Bagno, Principe di Waterloo, Duca di Ciudad Rodrigo, 
 e Grande di Spagna di Prima Classe, Duca di Vittoria, Marchese di Torres Vedras, 
 Conte di Vimeira in Portogallo, Cavaliere dell'Illustrissimo Ordine del Toson d'Oro, 
 dell'Ordine Militare Spagnuolo di San Ferdinando, Cavaliere Gran Croce dell'Imperiale 
 Ordine Militare di Maria Teresa, Cavaliere Gran Croce dell'Imperiale Ordine di Russia 
 
262 APPENDIX. 
 
 di San Giorgio, Cavaliere Gran Croce dell' Ordine dell'Aquila Nera di Prussia, Cava- 
 liere Gran Croce dell'Ordine Reale e Militare di Portogallo della Torre e Spada, Cava- 
 liere Gran Croce dell'Ordine Reale e MUitare di Svezia della Spada, Cavaliere Gran 
 Croce degli Ordini dell'Elefante di Danimarca, di Guglielmo dei Paesi Bassi, dell' An- 
 nunciada di Sardegna, di Massimiliano Giuseppe di Baviera, e di varj altri, e Coman- 
 dante le Forze di Sua Maestà Britannica in Francia, e l'Esercito di Sua Maestà il Re 
 de' Paesi Bassi; e Sua Maestà l'Imperatore di Tutte le Russie, il Sig. Andrea Principe 
 di Rasoumouffsky, Membro del Consiglio Privato di Sua Maestà Imperiale, Senatore, 
 Cavaliere dell'Ordine di Sant'Andrea, di Sant' Alessandro Newsky, Gran Croce dell'Or- 
 dine di Santo Vladimiro della Prima Classe, Gran Croce dell'Ordine Reale di Santo 
 Stefano d'Ungheria, e degli Ordini dell'Aquila Nera, e dell'Aquila Rossa di Prussia ; ed 
 il Sig. Giovanni Conte Capo d'Istria, Membro del Consiglio Privato di Sua Maestà 
 Imperiale, Segretario di Stato, Cavaliere dell'Ordine di Sant'Anna della Prima Classe, 
 Gran Croce dell'Ordine di Santo Vladimiro della Seconda Classe, Gran Croce dell'Or- 
 dine di Leopoldo di Austria, e dell'Aquila Rossa di Prussia, i quali dopo aver cambiati i 
 loro pieni Poteri, trovatili in buona e dovuta forma, sonosi convenuti sopra gli articoli 
 seguenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Le Isole di Corjìi, Cefalonia, Zante, Santa Maura, Itaca, Cerigo, e Paxò, con le loro 
 dipendenze quali vengono descritte nel Trattato del 21 Marzo 1800 tra Sua Maestà 
 l'Imperatore di tutte le Russie, e la Porta Ottomana, formeranno un solo, libero, ed indi- 
 pendente Stato sotto la denominazione di Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Questo Stato sarà posto sotto l'immediata, ed esclusiva Protezione di Sua Maestà il 
 Re del Regno Unito della Grande Brettagna e dell'Irlanda, Eredi, e Successori suoi. 
 Le altre Potenze Contraenti rinunziano in conseguenza ad ogni diritto, o particolare 
 pretensione che potessero aver formato relativamente ad esse Isole, e garantiscono formal- 
 mente tutte le disposizioni del presente Trattato. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Gli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, coll'approvazione della Potenza Protettrice, rego- 
 leranno la loro interna organizzazione ; e per dare ad ogni parte di questa organizzazione 
 la necessaria consistenza ed attività, Sua Maestà Britannica userà una particolare atten- 
 zione a ciò che riguarda la legislazione e l'amministrazione generale di quegli Stati ; per 
 lo che Sua Maestà destinerà un Lord Alto Commissionario ad ivi risiedere, rivestito dei 
 necessarj poteri ed autorizzazioni su tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Affine di dare una sollecita esecuzione alle stipulazioni menzionate negli articoli pre- 
 cedenti, e per basare la politica riorganizzazione degli Stati Joni sopra l'organizzazione 
 
APPENDIX. 263 
 
 attualmente vigente, il Lord Alto Commissionario della Potenza Protettrice regolerà le 
 forme di Convocazione di un'Assemblea Legislativa, della quale egli dirigerà gli anda- 
 menti per preparare una nuova Carta Costituzionale per gli Stati Uniti, che Sua Maestà 
 il Re del Regno Unito della Grande Brettagna e dell'Irlanda sarà pregata a ratificare. 
 
 Fino a tanto che tale Carta Costituzionale sia così preparata, e debitamente ratificata, 
 le Costituzioni attuali rimarranno in vigore nelle differenti Isole, né vi si farà alcuna 
 alterazione, se non che da Sua Maestà Britannica nel suo Consiglio. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Per assicurare senza restrizione agli abitanti degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie i van- 
 taggi che risultano dall'Alta Protezione, sotto la quale essi Stati furono collocati, e per 
 porre in esercizio i diritti inerenti alla Protezione stessa, Sua Maestà Britannica, avrà il 
 diritto di occupare le fortezze e le piazze di quegli Stati, e di tenervi delle guarnigioni. 
 La forza militare degli Stati Uniti medesimi sarà pure sotto gli ordini del Comandante 
 in Capo delle Truppe di Sua Maestà Britannica. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Sua Maestà Britannica acconsente che una convenzione particolare col Governo dei 
 detti Stati Uniti abbia a regolare, a misura delle Rendite di quegli Stati, ogni cosa rela- 
 tiva alla conservazione delle fortezze già esistenti, come pure alla sussistenza, ed al paga- 
 mento delle Guarnigioni Britanniche, ed al numero di uomini da cui queste saranno 
 composte in tempo di pace. La medesima Convenzione fisserà parimenti le relazioni 
 che vi dovranno esistere fra la suddetta Forza Armata ed il Governo Jonio. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 La Bandiera Commerciale degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sarà riconosciuta da 
 tutte le Parti Contraenti come Bandiera di uno Stato libero ed indipendente; questa 
 porterà, con gli stessi colori e sopra lo stemma spiegato prima dell'anno 1801, tal altro 
 stemma, che Sua Maestà crederà proprio di accordare come un segno della Protezione 
 sotto la quale i detti Stati Joni sono collocati ; e per promuovere gli effetti di questa Pro- 
 tezione, tutti i Porti dei detti Stati vengono per la presente dichiarati sotto giurisdizione 
 Britannica, per ciò che riguarda gli onori e i diritti militari. 
 
 Il Commercio fra gli Stati Uniti dell'Jonio, e i Dominj di Sua Maestà Imperiale 
 Reale Apostolica, goderà degli stessi vantaggi e facilità che gode il Commercio della 
 Grande Brettagna con gli Stati Uniti. 
 
 Agenti Commerciali soltanto, e Consoli unicamente incaricati delle relazioni Com- 
 merciali, e soggetti ai regolamenti, a cui sono sottoposti gli Agenti Commerciali, o i 
 Consoli in altri Stati indipendenti, verranno accreditati presso gli Stati Uniti delle 
 Isole Jonie. 
 
 ARTICOLO VIII. 
 
 Tutte le Potenze che hanno sottoscritto il Trattato di Parigi de' 30 Maggio 1814, e 
 
264 APPENDIX. 
 
 l'Atto del Congresso di Vienna de' 9 Giugno 1815, come pure Sua Maestà il Re delle 
 Due Sicilie, e la Porta Ottomana, saranno invitate ad accedere alla presente Con- 
 venzione. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Il presente Atto sarà ratificato, e saranno cambiate le ratifiche nel periodo di due 
 mesi, o più sollecitamente se sarà possibile : in testimonianza di che, i respettivi Plenipo- 
 tenziarj lo hanno sottoscritto, e vi hanno apposto i Sigilli delle loro Armi. 
 
 Fatto a Parigi il 5. t0 giorno di Novembre dell'anno di Nostro Signore 1815. 
 
 CASTLEREAGH. (L. S.) Il Principe di RASOUMOUFFSKY. {L. S.) 
 WELLINGTON. (L. S.) Il Conte CAPO D'ISTRIA. (L. S.) 
 
COSTITUZIONE 
 
 DEGLI STATI UNITI DELLE ISOLE JONIE. 
 CAPITOLO PRIMO. 
 
 ORGANIZZAZIONE GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 GLI Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sono composti da Cm-fù, Cefalonia, Zante, Santa 
 Maura, Itaca, Cerìgo, Paxò, e dalle altre piccole Isole situate lungo le Coste dell'Albania, 
 e della Morea, le quali precedentemente appartenevano al Dominio dei Veneziani. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Il luogo della Residenza del Governo generale degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, 
 sarà permanentemente fissato nella Città Capitale dell'Isola di Corfu. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 La Religione Dominante di questi Stati è la Religione Greca Ortodossa. Ogni altra 
 forma di Religione Cristiana, come verrà in appresso spiegato, sarà protetta. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 La Lingua stabilita di questi Stati è la Greca ; e viene quindi dichiarato, «ssere cosa 
 di somma importanza, che la Lingua Nazionale divenga al più presto possibile, quella in 
 cui si debbano scrivere tutti gli Atti del Governo, etutti i Processi Giudiziarii; e che sia 
 in fine riconosciuta per la sola Lingua da usarsi in ogni scritto Ufliziale. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Non essendo però agevole il dare immediata esecuzione a tale massima, a motivo che 
 tutti gli affari del Paese sono stati finora principalmente trattati in Lingua Italiana, viene 
 decretato, che tutti gli affari pubblici durante il Primo Parlamento sieno trattati in Lin- 
 gua Italiana; salvi ed eccettuati quelli delle Corti Minori, su i quali il Governo potrà 
 forse giudicare opportuno d'introdurre la Lingua del Paese colla mira d'incoraggiarla, e 
 ài propagarla. 
 
 M m 
 
266 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Coll' ulteriore mira d'incoraggiare la propagazione della Lingua della Potenza Pro- 
 tettrice, e quella degli Stati Protetti, Sua Altezza il Presidente ed il Senato saranno 
 tenuti sei giorni dopo la prima adunanza di qualunque Parlamento, di mandare all'As- 
 semblea Legislativa un Progetto di Legge, da essere discusso nella medesima, intorno 
 all'estensione, che si potrebbe dare all'uso della Lingua del Paese negli altri Dipartimenti 
 del Governo, o nella totalità degli Stati ; e si debbe chiaramente intendere, che quando 
 verrà statuita una Legge, per cui la Lingua Greca sarà dichiarata la sola Lingua Uffiziale, 
 l'unica altra Lingua, di cui si potrà fare uso in Copie, o in altro, sarà quella della Potenza 
 Protettrice, cioè la Lingua Inglese. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Il Governo Civile di questi Stati sarà composto da un'Assemblea Legislativa, da un 
 Senato, e da un Potere Giudiziario. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 Il Comando Militare di questi Stati, venendo devoluto pel Trattato di Parigi al 
 Comandante in Capo delle Truppe di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, 
 rimane presso il Comandante medesimo. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa verrà eletta dal Corpo dei Nobili elettori, nella maniera, e 
 nelle forme che saranno in appresso ordinate. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 I Senatori verranno eletti dal seno del Corpo dell'Assemblea Legislativa, nella 
 maniera, e nelle forme che saranno in appresso ordinate. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 II Potere Giudiziario verrà eletto dal Senato, nella maniera, e nelle forme che saranno 
 in appresso ordinate. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Tali Elezioni, come pure quelle ad ogni altra Carica Civile, saranno valide per un 
 quinquennio, eccettuato quanto potrà venire in appresso provveduto sovra questo pro- 
 posito. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 Allo spirare del quinquennio ogni Carica cessa interamente di diritto, e la nuova 
 Elezione della nuova Assemblea Legislativa dovrà avere luogo nel giorno stesso che spira 
 il termine del quinquennio ; però Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato, i Prestantissimi 
 Senatori, i Prestantissimi Reggenti dei Governi Locali, ed i Giudici insieme a tutte le 
 
APPENDIX. 267 
 
 Cariche Ministeriali dei varii Dipartimenti, continueranno ad esercitare i loro Uffizj e 
 doveri, finché i primi sieno surrogati da un nuovo Senato e da un nuovo Presidente, i 
 secondi da nuovi Reggenti, ed i Giudici insieme a tutte le Cariche Ministeriali, vengano 
 dal Potere competente o rieletti o cangiati 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 
 Ogni volta che l'Assemblea Legislativa si riunisce presso la Sede del Governo si 
 denominerà il Parlamento degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonìe ; e tale Riunione essendo la 
 prima, si nominerà la Prima Riunione del Primo Parlamento. 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 Il secondo Parlamento e le Riunioni susseguenti si denomineranno colla stessa regola 
 di numero, nella maniera medesima. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 
 Tutti gli Atti dell'Assemblea Legislativa, del Senato, e generalmente di tutti i Dipar- 
 timenti del Governo, saranno registrati secondo l'epoca del Parlamento, e della Riunione 
 in cui vengono statuiti, o secondo la maniera che vengono posti in esecuzione. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVII. 
 
 Durante il Primo Parlamento avrà luogo un'annua Riunione legale nel primo giorno 
 di Marzo, e questa continuerà in attività per tre mesi ; ma tale Riunione potrà, in caso 
 di urgenza, essere prolungata al di là dei detti tre mesi, per uno spazio di tempo, che 
 sarà dichiarato dal Senato, coll'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commis- 
 sionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIII. 
 In ogni susseguente Parlamento avrà luogo una Riunione nel primo giorno di Marzo 
 di ogni biennio, e continuerà in attività per uno spazio di tempo eguale a quello, che 
 viene stabilito nell'articolo precedente. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIX. 
 
 Il potere di convocare o di prorogare il Parlamento in casi di urgenza, resterà presso 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore; ma in tali 
 casi il Parlamento non potrà essere prorogato al di là di sei mesi. 
 
 ARTICOLO XX. 
 
 Il potere di disciogliere il Parlamento in casi di urgenza, lo avrà solamente SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, per mezzo di un ordine emmesso nel suo Con- 
 siglio. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXI. 
 
 Ogni volta che il Parlamento venisse prorogato, cesserà immediatamente la Riunione 
 
 Mm2 
 
268 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 dell'Assemblea Legislativa, durante tutto il tempo della proroga; e tutti gli Atti di qual- 
 siasi natura che non fossero stati compiutamente esauriti dal Parlamento, saranno nulli, 
 e di niun valore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXII. 
 
 Quando il Parlamento viene disciolto, tutti i Bills, e gli Atti di qualsiasi natura che 
 non fossero compiutamente esauriti, saranno nulli, come lo saranno pure quando il Par- 
 lamento cessa naturalmente. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIII. 
 
 Essendo uno dei punti più essenziali, inseparabile dalla felicita, e prosperità di qua- 
 lunque Stato, quello dell'Istruzione Pubblica ; e rendendosi altamente necessario per la 
 morale, non meno che per la Religione di questi Paesi, che i Sacerdoti in particolare 
 debbano ricevere una liberale e conveniente educazione, viene qui dichiarito : che uno 
 dei principali doveri, subito dopo la Riunione del Parlamento, susseguentemente alla 
 Ratificazione della presente Carta Costituzionale per parte di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore, sarà quello di adottare delle misure, in primo luogo per l'in- 
 stituzione eh Scuole Elementari, e quindi per lo stabilimento di un Collegio pei differenti 
 rami di Scienze, di Letteratura, e di Belle Arti. 
 
 B. Thcotoky, Presidente. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopido. 
 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Niccolò Anino Anas." 
 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Bulzo. 
 
 Felice Zambelly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopido Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Giallinà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An.° Tom. Lefcochilo Cav. r 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridio?i Metaxà Liseo. 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 Sebastiano D. r Sckiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitacki. 
 Dionisio Gemmata. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Mi chi eie Mercati. 
 Giovanili Melissinò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Condari. 
 Niccolò Cavadà. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomà. 
 Niccolò Frettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dem." Co: Valsamachi, Segretario. 
 
CAPITOLO SECONDO. 
 
 DEL SENATO. 
 
 SEZIONE I. m » 
 DEL SENATO IN GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 J.L Potere Esecutivo degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sarà devoluto ad un Senato, 
 composto da Sei Persone, cioè da un Presidente e da Cinque Membri. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 Il Presidente del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie avrà il titolo di Altezza, e 
 ciascuno dei Senatori quello di Prestantissimo. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie godrà la pre- 
 cedenza in confronto di tutti gli altri Individui nativi degli Stati Uniti, ed i Prestantis- 
 simi Senatori la godranno subito dopo il Presidente ; salvo ed eccettuato però quanto 
 verrà in appresso stabilito su questo proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie godrà assoluta- 
 mente in ogni occasione degli stessi Onori Militari dovuti a Sua Eccellekza il Lord Alto 
 Commissìo7iario di SUA MAESTÀ il Sovrano Protettore ; ed i Senatori godranno 
 gli Onori Militari dovuti ad un Maggior Generale. 
 
 SEZIONE II. da 
 MODO DI ELEZIONE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 La .Nomina di Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole 
 Jonie sarà riservata a SUA MAESTÀ il Sovrano Protettore, e verrà fatta per mezzo 
 di Sua Eccellenza il Suo Lord Alto Commissionario. Il detto Presidente dovrà essere 
 nativo delle Isole Jonie, e Nobile. 
 

 270 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 I Prestantissimi Senatori saranno eletti dai Nobilissimi Membri e dal Seno del Corpo 
 Legislativo, nella maniera e nelle proporzioni seguenti : 
 
 Co? fu 1 
 
 Cefalonia ... 1 
 
 Zante 1 
 
 Santa Maura 1 
 Itaca ~) 
 
 Cerigo > . . . 1 
 Paxò j 
 
 Totale ... 5 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa avrà il diritto di presentare ai 
 suffragi della medesima dei nomi presi dal Seno dell'Assemblea stessa per essere eletti al 
 Posto di Senatori; ma siffatto diritto sarà esercitato nel modo seguente: 
 
 1.° Il detto Presidente potrà presentare ai suffragi dell'Assemblea Legislativa dei nomi 
 come sopra, qualora gliene vengano precedentemente indirizzate delle Domande in 
 iscritto, firmate almeno da quattro Membri dell'Assemblea stessa, per ogni nome doman- 
 dato, e sia ciascuna Domanda contrassegnata colla sottoscrizione del Presidente stesso. 
 
 2.o II Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa non potrà rifiutarsi di 
 presentare ai suffragi della medesima dei nomi come sopra, tutte le volte che le suespresse 
 Domande sieno firmate da otto Membri per ciascun nome domandato, ed in questo caso 
 la sottoscrizione del Presidente non è richiesta. Ogni nome presentato nell'una, o 
 nell'altra delle indicate due maniere, sarà votato dall'Assemblea (a viva voce) e la maggio- 
 rità dei suffragi, i quali dovranno essere registrati nei Processi Verbali dai Segreta™, 
 deciderà dell'Elezione. In caso di parità di suffragi, il voto del Prestantissimo Presidente 
 dell'Assemblea Legislativa (ed in sua assenza o per sua indisposizione) quello di chi lo 
 rappresenta avrà valore di doppio voto. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 I Senatori verranno eletti nel termine di tre giorni a cominciare da quello della prima 
 Seduta dell'Assemblea Legislativa, e l'Elezione sarà fatta col seguente ordine: 
 
 1. Corfu. 
 
 2. Cefalonia. 
 
 3. Zante, Santa Maura, Itaca, Cerigo, e Paxò. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 II Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa sarà tenuto di trasmettere 
 entro il termine di ventiquattr' ore dal momento dell'Elezione di un Senatore per qualun- 
 que Isola o Isole, il nome dell'Individuo eletto, a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commis- 
 sionario, di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, ed il Lord Alto Commis- 
 
APPENDIX. 271 
 
 sìonario entro il termine di altre ventiquattr'ore successive, trasmetterà all'Assemblea 
 Legislativa, per mezzo del Presidente della stessa, il suo atto di adesione, o di negativa, 
 intorno a sifiata Elezione. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Se Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore 
 presterà la sua adesione all'Elezione fatta, il Membro per tal modo eletto, sarà Senatore 
 per l'Isola, o le Isole per cui venne scelto ; ma se all'incontro Sua Eccellenza vi darà 
 la sua negativa, tale Elezione sarà considerata nulla, e l'Assemblea Legislativa procederà 
 in egual maniera, e nelle forme anzidette all'Elezione di' un altro Senatore. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Effettuata che sarà tale nuova Elezione, verrà questa di nuovo trasmessa a Sua 
 Eccellenza il Lord Alto Covimi ssionar io del SOVRANO Protettore, il quale, se darà 
 per la seconda volta la sua negativa, questa seconda Elezione pure sarà considerata nulla, 
 ed in questo ultimo caso Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore, trasmetterà entro Io spazio di ventiquattr' ore i nomi di due Membri 
 dell'Assemblea Legislativa, appartenenti all'Isola o Isole per cui si tratta l'Elezione, fra i 
 quali l'Assemblea vi eleggerà uno, e tale Elezione sarà definitiva. 
 
 ARTICOLO VIII. 
 I Prestantissimi Membri del Senato resteranno in funzione per un solo quinquennio, 
 e Sua Altezza il Presidente vi resterà per la metà di un quinquennio. Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore potrà nominare, spirata la 
 metà del quinquennio, altro Individuo per succedere al Presidente, oppure potrà autoriz- 
 zare il Presidente stesso a continuarvi ; salvo ed eccettuato però quanto verrà in appresso 
 stabilito su questo proposito. 
 
 SEZIONE III.- 
 MODO DI PROCEDERE DEL SENATO, E SUOI POTERI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Le sei distinte persone che compongono il Senato, decideranno in ogni questione per 
 maggiorità di suffragi : ed in caso di parità di voti, quello di Sua Altezza il Presidente 
 avrà doppio valore. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL ^ 
 
 Nel Senato l'iniziativa sarà devoluta soltanto a sua Altezza il Presidente; ogni Pre- 
 stantissimo Senatore avrà il diritto però di portare innanzi verbalmente, e per una sol 
 volta, durante la stessa Riunione del Parlamento, qualunque Progetto credesse oppor- 
 
272 APPENDIX. 
 
 tuno, e ciò colla mira d'impegnare- Sua Altezza il Presidente a: presentare una relativa 
 proposizione al Senato. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 In caso che Sua Altezza il Presidente ommettesse di presentare tale Progetto al 
 Senato, il Prestantissimo Senatore che lo avea originariamente portato, potrà mettere il 
 suo progetto in iscritto, purché questo, sottoscritto da lui stesso, lo sia pure da un altro 
 Senatore almeno. La proposizione sarà allora trasmessa da Sua Altezza il Presidente a 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Pno- 
 tettore; e se Sua Eccellenza lo approva, la medesima sarà senz'alcun cangiamento 
 presentata al Senato da sua Altezza il Presidente, ove verrà discussa nella maniera ordi- 
 naria. Se poi viene disapprovata da Sua Eccellenza, tale proposizione diviene nulla. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 'Nel caso d'indÌ6posizione fisica, o di assenza necessaria di Sua Altezza il Presidente 
 del- Senato degli Stati L T niti, Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SL*A 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore nominerà uno degli attuali Prestantissimi 
 Senatori, onde ne eserciti le funzioni fino al ristabilimento in salute, o al ritorno di Sua 
 Altezza il Presidente. Il Prestantissimo Senatore a ciò destinato avrà il titolo di Vice- 
 Presidente. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Nel caso d'indisposizione, o di assenza di uno dei Prestantissimi Senatori, il Senato 
 avrà il potei'e di nominare interinamente un Membro dell'Assemblea Legislativa che si 
 trovasse allora presente in Corfu, onde esercitarne le funzioni fino al ristabilimento in 
 salute, o al ritorno del Prestantissimo Senatore. Questa nomina sarà soggetta all'affer- 
 mativa o alla negativa di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore colle stesse forme e regole osservate nell'Elezione originaria di un Senatore. 
 Il provvedimento annunziato in questo articolo sarà pure lo stesso per tutti i casi di 
 nomina interina di un Senatore al posto di Vice-Presidente, come per l'articolo precedente. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 In caso di morte di Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole 
 Jonie, Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, 
 sarà tenuto di nominare un nuovo Presidente entro il periodo di tre giorni. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 In caso di morte di un Senatore, se il Parlamento si trova riunito e in attività, pro- 
 cederà nello spazio di tre giorni all'Elezione di un nuovo Senatore, nei modi e nelle forme 
 stabilite. Se il Parlamento non trovasi in attività, il Senato nominerà tosto un Senatore 
 pro tempore, il quale funzionerà fino alla prima Riunione attiva del Parlamento, e questa 
 nomina avrà luogo nei modi e nelle forme- espresse nell'articolo quinto. L'elezione 
 
APPENDIX. 273 
 
 formale del nuovo Prestantissimo Senatore avrà luogo alla prima riunione attiva del Par* 
 lamento. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 Il Senato avrà il diritto di nominare i suoi Uffiziali Ministeriali colle eccezioni, che 
 verranno in appresso dichiarite, e sarà distinto in tre Dipartimenti, cioè Dipartimento 
 generale, Dipartimento politico, e Dipartimento delle finanze. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Il Dipartimento generale sarà composto da Sua Altezza il Presidente e da uno dei 
 Prestantissimi Membri del Senato. Ciascuno degli altri due Dipartimenti sarà composto 
 indistintamente da due Prestantissimi Membri del Senato. A ciascuno di. questi tre 
 Dipartimenti sarà attaccato un Segretario. 
 
 L'Elezione del Segretario pel Dipartimento generale è riservata a Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, e questo Segretario potrà 
 essere suddito nativo della Grande Brettagna, o Jonio, a distinzione dei Segretarii degli 
 altri due Dipartimenti, che dovranno essere nativi delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Le attribuzioni dei tre Dipartimenti suddetti saranno le seguenti. 
 
 Il Dipartimento Generale regolerà tutti i minuti dettagli relativi all'amministrazione 
 generale del Governo, che fossero di natura sì tenue da non esigere l'attenzione immediata 
 del Senato nella sua totale autorità, o che esigessero una pronta esecuzione. 
 
 Il Dipartimento politico, e quello delle Finanze avranno nello stesso senso la mede- 
 sima facoltà in casi eguali: nessun Atto però di alcun Dipartimento sarà considerato 
 valido finché non abbia ricevuto l'approvazione dell'intero Senato. Tutti gli Atti deb- 
 bono essere assoggettati al Senato nella sua totalità nella prima Seduta, che succede alle 
 deliberazioni prese dai diversi Dipartimenti; ed affinchè l'Atto adesivo del Senato sia 
 valido, conviene che sia sottoscritto dal Segretario del Dipartimento, d'onde l'affare pro- 
 cede, e dal Segretario del Dipartimento generale. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Gli Atti giornalieri del Senato nella sua qualità totale, come pure tutti i rapporti che 
 vengono assoggettati al Senato, saranno trasmessi per mezzo del Segretario del Diparti- 
 mento Generale a Sua Eccellenza il Lord dito Commissionario del SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore, a sua informazione. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Tuttocchè il Senato ha il potere di eleggere i suoi Uffiziali Ministeriali ad eccezione 
 del Segretario del Dipartimento Generale, come fu esposto nell'Articolo 9.°, il Senato 
 entro il periodo di tre giorni dopo la sua installazione, presenterà all'Assemblea Legisla- 
 tiva una Lista completa di tutti i suoi Uffiziali Ministeriali, e dello stipendio proposto in 
 
 Nn 
 
274 APPENDIX. 
 
 loro favore, affinchè l'Assemblea debba prendere in considerazione tanto il numero degli 
 Uffiziali, che le somme da accordarsi a'medesimi. La decisione però dell'Assemblea 
 Legislativa s,u tale proposito si dovrà assoggettare all'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. Tosto 
 che tale Lista sarà definitivamente approvata, verrà inserita nella Lista Civile generale, 
 né il Senato potrà più alterarla o aumentarla, salvi i casi che verranno qui appresso 
 indicati. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 Il Senato avrà il potere di nominare a tutte le Cariche del Governo generale; i 
 Reggenti dei varii Governi Locali, i Giudici in tutte le Isole, e generalmente a tutti 
 gl'Impieghi, eccettuati quelli che sono puramente Municipali. Tale potere sarà eseguito 
 a norma delle Istruzioni, e delle riserve, che verranno qui appresso esposte. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 
 Il Senato avrà il potere di presentare alla considerazione dell'Assemblea Legislativa 
 dei Progetti di Legge. Ogni Progetto di Legge per tal modo trasmesso dal Senato dovrà 
 essere preso in considerazione entro il periodo qui appresso indicato, e qualora avrà otte- 
 nuta la maggiorità dei suffragi, sarà considerato come Legge stabilita, purché abbia otte- 
 nuta l'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore (come sarà in appresso fissato), e purché non venga abrogato da un Ordine 
 di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore nel suo Consiglio. 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 Dopo che un Progetto di Legge sarà passato ed approvato dall'Assemblea Legislativa, 
 il Senato avrà il potere di pronunziare un atto diretto negativo, allegando i motivi che lo 
 inducono a ciò fere, e trasmettere tale atto all'Assemblea Legislativa nel termine di tre 
 giorni. Il Progetto di Legge in questo caso diviene nullo, né si potrà riproporlo durante 
 la riunione di quel Parlamento. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 
 Durante il tempo che il Parlamento non è in attività, o è in vacanza, il Senato avrà 
 il potere di fare dei Regolamenti, che avranno pro interim forza di Legge, purché abbiano 
 ottenuto l'approvazione di Sua Ecoellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore. 
 
 Tutti questi Regolamenti interini, dovranno essere assoggettati all'Assemblea Legis- 
 lativa nel primo giorno della sua Riunione, onde li debba prendere in considerazione, e 
 tosto che avranno ottenuto l'approvazione dell'Assemblea, saranno tenuti dalla data della 
 loro promulgazione, come Leggi in vigore. Se però tali Regolamenti non saranno ap- 
 provati dall' Assemblea Legislativa nei modi che verranno in appresso fissati, essi diven- 
 gono nulli. Si dichiara però che tutti gli atti, fatti in conseguenza di tali Regolamenti 
 durante il tempo decorso dalla loro data fino alla riunione dell' Assemblea Legislativa, 
 saranno validi. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 275 
 
 ARTICOLO XVII. 
 
 Il Senato avrà il potere di fare dei Regolamenti, e delle Ordinanze relative all'anda- 
 mento delle sue funzioni interne. Tali Regolamenti ed Ordinanze dovranno però otte- 
 nere P assenso di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore, né potranno essere in opposizione alle provvidenze della Carta Costituzionale, 
 né alle Leggi stabilite. 
 
 B. Theotoky, Presidente. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopulo. 
 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Niccolò Anino Anas. 
 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Bulzo. 
 
 Felice Zambélly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Aìiaslasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopulo Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Giallinà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An.° Tom." Lefcochilo Cav. T 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridion Metaxà Liseo. 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 Sebastiano D. T Schiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Melissinò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Condari. 
 Niccolò Cavadd. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomà. 
 Niccolò Frettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dem,° Co: ValsamacJii, Segretario. 
 
 Nn2 
 
CAPITOLO TERZO. 
 
 DELL'ASSEMBLEA LEGISLATIVA. 
 
 SEZIONE I.™ 
 DELL'ASSEMBLEA. LEGISLATIVA IN GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 JLt'ASSEMBLEA Legislativa degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sarà composta da Qua- 
 ranta Membri, compresovi il Presidente. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 Il Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa godrà gli Onori di Senatore, 
 ed i Membri avranno il titolo di Nobilissimi. 
 
 SEZIONE H. da 
 MODO DI ELEZIONE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Al momento della convocazione di un nuovo Parlamento, il Presidente del Consiglio 
 Primario sarà Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa sino a che venga eletto il nuovo 
 Senato, non che il futuro Presidente dell'Assemblea stessa. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 L'Elezione del Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa, sarà fatta il 
 giorno dopo terminata quella dei Senatori, e verrà in ogni caso eseguita nelle stesse forme, 
 ed a tenore dei Regolamenti espressi nel Capitolo Secondo, Sezione Seconda, riguardante 
 l'Elezione dei Senatori. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 I Quaranta Nobilissimi Membri dell'Assemblea Legislativa saranno composti da 
 undici Membri integranti e da ventinove eleggibili. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Gli undici Membri integranti, nei casi in cui il Parlamento spira naturalmente, (cioè 
 
APPENDIX. 277 
 
 dopo di avere terminato l'intero suo corso di cinque anni) consisteranno nel Presidente, e 
 nei Membri del Senato, passato, nei quattro Reggenti delle quattro Isole maggiori durante 
 l'ultimo Parlamento, ed in uno dei Reggenti delle Isole minori, preso in turno come 
 segue: 
 
 Itaca. 
 
 Cerigo. 
 
 Paxò. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Nei casi in cui il Parlamento viene disciolto, il Consiglio Primario sarà costantemente 
 composto da Sua Altezza il Presidente, dai Prestantissimi Membri del Senato passato, e 
 da cinque dei Nobilissimi Membri dell'ultima Assemblea Legislativa, da essere nominati 
 da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, entro il 
 periodo di tre giorni dopo lo scioglimento del Parlamento. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 I ventinove Nobilissimi Membri dell'Assemblea Legislativa eligibili, verranno scelti 
 dalle diverse Isole nelle seguenti proporzioni : 
 
 Corfu .... 7 
 
 Cefalonia . 
 Zante . . 
 Satita Maura 
 Itaca . . 
 Cerigo . . 
 Paxò . . 
 
 Totale 
 
 7 
 7 
 4 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 Ciascuna delle tre ultime (eccettuandosi quella il di cui Reggente diviene Membro 
 integrante dell'Assemblea Legislativa) darà un secondo membro, giusta il turno fissato 
 come sopra. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 I Nobilissimi membri dell'Assemblea Legislativa, eligibili nelle diverse Isole, verranno 
 scelti fra il Corpo del Sinclito dell'Isola a cui appartiene l'Elezione. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 I Sincliti faranno le loro Elezioni sopra una duplice lista, che verrà fatta e trasmessa 
 ad essi pel loro suffragio nella maniera seguente: 
 
 Questa duplice lista sarà fatta dai Membri del nuovo Consiglio Primario ; ed affine , 
 di evitare possibilmente ogni ritardo nei casi in cui il Parlamento spira naturalmente 
 (trovandosi alcuni dei Nobilissimi Membri del nuovo Consiglio Primario assenti dalla 
 sede del Governo, cioè i cinque Prestantissimi Reggenti), i lavori dello stesso sovra 
 
278 APPENDIX. 
 
 questo proposito, comincieranno sei mesi prima dello spirare del Parlamento stesso, onde 
 porre in grado i Reggenti di avere il tempo conveniente alla corrispondenza necessaria ; 
 ed i nomi per tale duplice lista si sceglieranno colla maggiorità dei suffragi del nuovo 
 Consiglio Primario. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Tosto che sarà preparata la sopradetta duplice lista, il Prestantissimo Presidente del 
 Consiglio trasmetterà copia della medesima, firmata da esso, ai Prestantissimi Reggenti 
 di ciascuna delle Isole, in modo che possa giungere in ogni Isola quattordici giorni prima 
 della cessazione del Parlamento, ed i Prestantissimi Regenti agiranno a seconda della 
 liste stesse. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Siccome nell'articolo 1 3. z ° del primo Capitolo venne fatto un provvedimento intorno 
 all'epoca delle nuove Elezioni, quando spira naturalmente il Parlamento, ma non ne 
 venne fatto alcuno relativamente all'epoca delle Elezioni, quando il Parlamento viene 
 disciolto; così in qualunque emergenza di tal natura, le Elezioni avranno luogo nel qua- 
 rantesimo giorno dopo la Proclamazione, che verrà emmessa sopra questo proposito, ed il 
 nuovo Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario spedirà entro il termine di sei giorni, dopo disciolto 
 il Parlamento, la duplice lista ai Prestantissimi Reggenti delle varie Isole, onde farli agire 
 a norma della lista medesima. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Malgrado che il giorno delle nuove Elezioni, tanto quando cessa, come quando viene 
 disciolto il Parlamento, sia fissato, nulladimeno essendo impossibile, a motivo della divi- 
 sione di questi Stati, il prevedere gli accidenti, che possono ritardare l'arrivo del Mandato 
 colla duplice Lista del Prestantissimo Presidente del nuovo Consiglio Primario, al di là 
 del periodo stabilito dagli Articoli precedenti: si debbe intendere, che in tali casi le 
 Elezioni nelP Isola, o nelle Isole come sopra, si faranno entro il periodo di cinque giorni, 
 dal momento che arriva il Mandato del Presidente del Consiglio Primario; ed ogni 
 Elezione di tal natura, sarà legale e valida, come se avesse avuto luogo il giorno indicato 
 negli Articoli precedenti riguardanti tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Sia che il Parlamento spiri naturalmente, o sia che venga disciolto, in ciascuno di 
 questi casi l'Assemblea Legislativa si riunirà presso la Sede del Governo, entro il periodo 
 di venti giorni al più dopo il giorno della sua Elezione, o più presto, se le circostanze il 
 permettessero; ciocché seguirà dietro un Mandato di Sua Altezza il Presidente del 
 Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, che verrà a tempo debito communicato. Sua 
 Altezza nella sua qualità di Presidente del Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario trasmetterà le 
 duplici Liste alle Isole. 
 
APPENDIX, 
 
 279 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 Siccome pel Capitolo Secondo, Sezione 2.» Articolo 2.° viene provveduto, che i Sena- 
 tori debbano essere scelti fra il seno dell'Assemblea Legislativa, e quindi i posti dei Nobi- 
 lissimi Membri eletti restano vacanti nell'Assemblea stessa, come restano pure quei dei 
 Legislatori eletti Reggenti, e come possono ancora a cagione di morte, di rinunzia o di 
 altre combinazioni, rimanere dei posti vacanti nel Corpo Legislativo, in qualunque caso 
 di tal natura in generale, ed in ciascuno in particolare, il Prestantissimo Presidente del 
 Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario, spedirà entro il termine di sei giorni, nelle forme già 
 precedentemente stabilite, un Mandato colla duplice lista, al Prestantissimo Reggente 
 dell'Isola a cui toccherà la vacanza, coll'ordine di convocare straordinariamente il Sinclito 
 per supplire a detta vacanza nell' Assemblea Legislativa, e tale convocazione avrà luogo 
 entro il periodo di sei giorni dall'istante del ricevimento del Mandato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 Siccome nell'articolo precedente furono indicati in maniera generale gli Uffizii, ed 
 accennate le combinazioni per cui possono avvenire delle vacanze nell'Assemblea Legis- 
 lativa; e siccome per tali vacanze potrebbero forse accadere anche delle vacanze nel 
 Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario, così in qualunque caso di tal natura, Sua Eccellenza il 
 Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore nominerà, 
 entro tre giorni di tale vacanza, altro membro dell'Assemblea Legislativa a Membro del 
 Consiglio Primario. 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 Quantunque dal momento della Convocazione dell'Assemblea Legislativa, non vi sia 
 alcuna distinzione fra i poteri dei Membri integranti della medesima, e quelli degli eletti 
 dalle diverse Isole ; nondimeno i mandati di qualsiasi natura, che si dovranno emmettere 
 in qualunque caso di vacanza (benché non indicato qui precedentemente) che in seguito 
 potesse avvenire nel Corpo Legislativo : come anche la formazione delle duplici liste per 
 le Elezioni, saranno esclusivamente, ed in ogni caso devolute agli undici Membri inte- 
 granti, come Consiglio Primario, per mezzo del Prestantissimo loro Presidente. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 
 In qualunque occasione d'importanza o di urgenza, in cui l'Assemblea Legislativa 
 desiderasse di conferire personalmente col Prestantissimo Senato, o con Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, o viceversa, la Commissione 
 della detta Assemblea Legislativa per trattare in siffatte conferenze sarà costantemente 
 composta dal Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVII. 
 
 Siccome potrebbe darsi, che Sua Altezza il nuovo Presidente del Senato degli Stati 
 Uniti delle Isole Jonie potesse essere, o il Presidente, o alcuno dei Membri del Nobilis- 
 simo Consiglio Primario, in ogni caso di tal natura, Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Com- 
 
280 APPENDIX. 
 
 missionario del SOVRANO Protettore sarà tenuto di nominare, entro tre giorni, un 
 nuovo Presidente fra il seno del detto Consiglio Primario, ed un nuovo Membro pel detto 
 Consiglio ; fra il seno dell'Assemblea Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIII. 
 
 L'Organizzazione del Sinclito, o dei Nobili Elettori di questi Stati, nel modo dichia- 
 rito dalla Costituzione del 1803, sarà mantenuta, e sarà confermata, salvi ed eccettuati 
 quei cangiamenti o miglioramenti, che potranno in seguito avere luogo in forza di qualche 
 Legge, che venisse emanata, o di quanto potesse venire in appresso diversamente statuito 
 sopra questo proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIX. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ciascuna Isola sarà in ogni occasione il Presidente del 
 Sinclito, e dirigerà gli andamenti del Sinclito stesso, assistito dal Segretario del Governo 
 Locale, e dall' Avvocato Fiscale, in qualità di suoi assessori. 
 
 ARTICOLO XX. 
 
 I suddetti Reggenti, ed Assessori riformeranno annualmente (dietro pubblica Notifi- 
 cazione su tal proposito) la Lista dei Sincliti di ciascuna Isola, cancellando dalla detta 
 Lista tutti coloro che avessero perduto le necessarie prerogative, ed ammettendo coloro, 
 che producessero "prove soddisfacenti di possedere i requisiti dovuti ; e tale Lista dopo 
 riformata, verrà costantemente trasmessa al Senato, avanti il primo di ottobre di ogni 
 anno, per la sua conferma. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXI. 
 
 Le suddette Liste, così conformate e riformate, verranno rispedite dal Senato ai 
 Prestantissimi Reggenti delle diverse Isole, e colla scorta di quelle si faranno tutte le 
 Elezioni per l'anno entrante, e nessun altro, quali siensi i suoi titoli, avrà diritto di votare, 
 quando il di lui nome non si trova nelle Liste suddette. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXII. 
 
 Nei casi di tutte le Elezioni, sieno generali, come nella formazione del nuovo Parla- 
 mento, ovvero particolari, nel corso della durata di un Parlamento, la verificazione di tali 
 Elezioni verrà fatta dal Prestantissimo Reggente, e dai suoi Assessori, nell'Isola, in cui 
 possono avere avuto luogo ; ed un Certificato giurato e firmato da essi, che la persona, o 
 le persone Elette ebbero una legittima maggiorità di voti, deciderà della validità delle 
 medesime ; e tale Certificato verrà senza ritardo trasmesso al Prestantissimo Presidente 
 dell' Assemblea Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIII. 
 
 II numero degl' individui componente il Sinclito, necessario a formare un' adunanza 
 legale dello stesso, dovrà essere almeno la metà del totale numero di quell'Isola dove si 
 
APPENDIX. 281 
 
 tiene tale adunanza, ed ogni operazione relativa ad Elezioni, verrà decisa dalla maggiorità 
 dei voti, dati a viva voce. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIV. 
 
 Se avvenisse in qualunque caso, dopo resa dovutamente pubblica notizia, che la 
 Riunione del Sinclito non fosse legale nel suo numero, cioè almeno nella metà, il 
 Prestantissimo Reggente l'aggiornerà sull'istante, e renderà un'altra volta noto, che una 
 nuova Riunione del Sinclito avrà luogo dopo tre giorni ; e se in tale Riunione pure il 
 numero degli Elettori non fosse legale, come sopra, in tal caso il Prestantissimo Reggente 
 chiuderà immantinente la detta seconda Riunione, e trasmetterà senza il benché minimo 
 indugio a Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato le originali duplici Liste rimessegli dal 
 Prestantissimo Presidente del Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario ; ed il Prestantissimo 
 Senato entro i due giorni dopo il ricevimento di tali duplici Liste, procederà colla scorta 
 delle Liste stesse all'Elezione del Membro o dei Membri da nominarsi per l'Assemblea 
 Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXV. 
 
 Le Elezioni che farà il Prestantissimo Senato, nei casi espressi nell'Articolo prece- 
 dente, saranno tenute in ogni rapporto legali e valide. Il Sinclito dell' Isola che non si 
 riunisse in numero legale nel giorno, o nei giorni dell' Elezione per la sua Isola, venendo 
 considerato per propria negligenza decaduto dal suo titolo sopra tali Elezioni, la verifica- 
 zione di siffata Elezione in ogni simile caso, verrà convalidata da un Certificato di Sua 
 Altezza il Presidente del Senato a tale uopo emmesso. 
 
 SEZIONE III - 
 MODO DI PROCEDERE, E POTERI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 In caso di morte, di assenza, o d'indisposizione del Prestantissimo Presidente 
 dell'Assemblea Legislativa, durante la Riunione del Parlamento, l'Assemblea eleggerà, 
 nel primo caso, formalmente nella sua prima ventura Seduta, un Presidente, secondo i 
 Regolamenti qui precedentemente stabiliti. 
 
 In ciascuno degli ultimi due casi, l'Assemblea Legislativa eleggeva nelle stesse forme, 
 alla sua prima ventura Seduta, un Presidente interino, e tale Presidente interino «ara 
 denominato Vice- Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 È richiesta la presenza del Presidente, o del Vice- Presidente, e quella di dieci Mem- 
 bri almeno onde costituire legale una Seduta dell'Assemblea Legislativa. 
 
 Oo 
 
282 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 In caso che il sovraccennato numero di Membri non si trovasse presente un'ora dopo 
 la stabilita ora delle Sedute, il Prestantissimo Presidente dell' Assemblea Legislativa, ed 
 in sua assenza il Vice-Presidente, aggiornerà sulF istante la Seduta al venturo stabilito 
 giorno di Seduta. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Saranno fissati tre giorni in ciascuna settimana per le Sedute dell'Assemblea Legisla- 
 tiva, e saranno i giorni di Martedì, di Giovedì, e di Sabbato, e l'ora della Seduta sarà la 
 decima ora antimeridiana. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Indipendentemente alle regolari Sedute da tenersi nei giorni sovra stabiliti, si ter- 
 ranno ancora delle Sedute straordinarie, secondo che lo esigessero le circostanze, ed a 
 norma degli ordini che potrebbe emmettere il Presidente, ed in assenza di questi il Vice- 
 Presidente, o che la maggiorità dell'Assemblea decretasse, previa mozione a tale uopo 
 
 fatta. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Ogni questione di qualsiasi natura sarà decisa dalla maggiorità dei voti dei Nobilis- 
 simi Membri presenti, (salvo quanto si potesse in appresso statuire su tal proposito) ed in 
 qualunque circostanza di parità di voti, il Prestantissimo Presidente, ed in assenza di 
 questi il Vice- Presidente, avrà il privilegio di doppio voto nell'Assemblea Legislativa, 
 come lo ha Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato, giusta il Capitolo Secondo, Sezione 
 Terza, Articolo Primo. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 I voti in qualsiasi questione verranno dati a viva voce, ed i Segretarii terranno Regis- 
 tro dei medesimi. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa ha potere di scegliere gli Uffiziali del suo Ministero, salve le 
 eccezioni che verranno fatte qui appresso su questo proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà due Segretarii, l'uno sarà denominato Segretario dell' 
 Assemblea Legislativa, e l'altro sarà denominato Segretario del Consiglio Primario, ed 
 ambedue saranno eguali in rango. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 La destinazione del Segretario del Consiglio Primario è riservata a. Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore; e tale Segretario potrà 
 essere sì nativo delle Isole Jonie, che suddito Britannico. 
 
APPENDIX. 283 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Il Segretario del Nobilissimo Consiglio Primario trasmetterà giornalmente copia del 
 Processo Verbale dell' Assemblea Legislativa a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commis- 
 sionario del SOVRANO Protettore, a di lui informazione, e verun Processo Verbale 
 sarà considerato legale, se non è firmato dal Segretario dell'Assemblea Legislativa, e dal 
 Segretario del Consiglio Primario. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà l'esclusivo potere di nominare i Prestantissimi Senatori 
 di questi Stati nella maniera, e nelle forme ordinate dal Capitolo Secondo, Sezione 
 Seconda, Articoli 3, 4, 5, 6, e 7. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà l'esclusivo potere di fare Leggi in questi Stati per la 
 parte che la riguarda. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 
 Tre saranno i modi con cui si porteranno le Leggi alla considerazione dell'Assemblea 
 Legislativa. 
 
 l.o Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore, avrà il potere di trasmettere all'Assemblea Legislativa dei Progetti di Legge 
 per mezzo del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 2.° Il Prestantissimo Senato avrà il potere di trasmettere all'Assemblea Legislativa il 
 Progetto di qualsiasi Legge, che stimasse opportuna, e convenevole. 
 
 3.° Qualunque Membro dell'Assemblea Legislativa avrà diritto di sottoporre qualsiasi 
 Progetto di Legge alla considerazione dell'Assemblea. In ciascuno dei due primi casi, 
 l'Assemblea Legislativa sarà tenuta di prendere in considerazione tale Progetto, a norma 
 dei provvedimenti, che verranno qui appresso esposti intorno ai Progetti di Legge pre- 
 sentabili da Individui, ed assoggettati alla considerazione dell'Assemblea stessa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 Ogni volta che un Nobibssimo membro dell'Assemblea Legislativa desidera di portare 
 una misura alla considerazione dell'Assemblea, dee ottenere in primo luogo il permesso 
 di presentare all'Assemblea Legislativa il suo Progetto, e dee quindi esporre a viva voce 
 le ragioni, che lo inducono a crederlo convenevole ed opportuno, e quindi l'Assemblea 
 deciderà se le convenga accordargli tale permesso. Il suddetto membro è tenuto però, 
 due giorni prima della richiesta del permesso, di far conoscere la sua intenzione su tale 
 proposito al Prestantissimo Senato, ad informazione del Senato stesso, e di Sua Eccel- 
 lenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 
 Quando l'Assemblea Legislativa accorda tale permesso, il Nobilissimo Membro, 
 
 Oo2 
 
284 APPENDIX. 
 
 indicato nell'articolo precedente, dee portare il suo Progetto in iscritto all'Assemblea, 
 entro lo spazio di una settimana, o in meno, dal momento che gli viene accordato il detto 
 permesso. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVII. 
 
 Il suddetto Progetto resterà sulla Tavola dell'Assemblea Legislativa, tale quale viene 
 presentato, per essere letto dai Membri della medesima sino alla seconda stabilita seduta, 
 dopo quella in cui fu esibito, e quindi verrà di diritto preso in considerazione, e deciso (se 
 il tempo della discussione il permette) dall'Assemblea, coll'approvazione, o rejezione della 
 maggiorità dei voti dei membri presenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIII. 
 
 Se la prima discussione lo esigesse, questa potrà essere aggiornata alla seconda 
 Seduta, o ad altra terza susseguente ; ma la discussione di verun Bill, non potrà venire 
 aggiornata al di là della terza seduta, dopo quella della prima discussione intorno al 
 medesimo, ed, entro lo spazio di tempo suespresso, la cosa dovrà essere definitivamente 
 terminata in maniera affermativa o negativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIX. 
 
 Nei casi in cui l'Assemblea Legislativa fosse per emanare una Legge, qualunque siasi 
 la sua origine, detta Legge sarà, ventiquattr' ore dopo la sua sanzione, trasmessa dal 
 Prestantissimo Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa (previa sua firma e quella dei Segre- 
 tarii) al Prestantissimo Senato per la sua approvazione, o disapprovazione, 
 
 ARTICOLO XX. 
 
 Quando tale Legge avrà ottenuta l'approvazione del Senato, dovrà essere firmata da 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente, e contrassegnata dal Segretario del suo Dipartimento Generale. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXI. 
 
 In caso che tale Legge venga disapprovata dal Prestantissimo Senato, sarà firmata da 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente, e contrassegnata da quella del Segretario del suddetto Dipar- 
 timento Generale, e rispedita in tal modo al Presidente dell'Assemblea Legislativa, col 
 significargli la negativa del Senato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXII. 
 
 Quando un Bill viene approvato dal Senato, Sua Altezza il Presidente lo trasmetterà, 
 entro lo spazio di ventiquattr' ore, a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore, il quale darà immediatamente la sua approvazione, o la sua 
 negativa, lo firmerà, e sarà contrassegnato dal suo Segretario. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIII. 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore tras- 
 
APPENDIX. 285 
 
 metterà sull'istante il detto Bill colla sua approvazione, o negativa, a Sua Altezza il Pre- 
 sidente, e Sua Altezza il Presidente lo rimetterà in egual modo al Presidente dell'Assem- 
 blea Legislativa ; e nei casi che tale legge ottenesse l'approvazione, sarà consegnata 
 all'Archivista del Governo degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie per essere registrata come 
 Legge del Paese, e venendo disapprovata, o dal Prestantissimo Senato, o da Sua Eccel- 
 lenza il Lend Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, sarà nulla. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIV. 
 
 Tuttoché la Sanzione di Sua Eccellenza \\ Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore sia per 1' ordinario in ogni caso sufficiente a stabilire le leggi del Paese; e 
 tuttoché, qualora un Bill avesse ottenuta l'approvazione delle autorità già precedente- 
 mente indicate, non si renda necessaria la finale sanzione di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore; nulladimeno, potendo avvenire, che Sua Eccellenza il 
 Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore desse la sua Sanzione ad una 
 Legge, che a SUA MAESTÀ sembrasse improvvida, e mal calcolata: è perciò riservato 
 alla MAESTÀ SUA il potere (entro lo spazio di un anno dalla formazione della Legge 
 stessa) di abrogarla, previo un ordine nel suo Consiglio, ed in tale caso verrà immanti- 
 nente cancellata dai Registri del Governo. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXV. 
 
 Quando un Bill portato all'Assemblea Legislativa da qualsivoglia dei suoi membri, 
 ed approvato dall'Assemblea stessa, fosse in seguito rigettato dal Prestantissimo Senato ; 
 ovvero approvato che fosse dall'Assemblea Legislativa, e dal Senato, venisse poi rigettato 
 da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, non 
 sarà permesso di riprodurre tale Bill, od altro, sovra simile materia, che un'altra sol volta 
 durante il corso del Parlamento in cui fu portato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXVI. 
 
 Ma nei casi in cui qualsiasi Bill venisse portato all'Assemblea Legislativa per parte 
 del Prestantissimo Senato, o di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore, e venisse da un'autorità legale rigettato, sarà permesso di 
 portarlo ancora, per essere nuovamente discusso, nella detta Assemblea, in qualunque 
 tempo che si stimasse opportuno, durante il corso del Parlamento in cui fu originaria- 
 mente portato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXVII. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà il potere di modificare, o di alterare qualunque Articolo 
 o Articoli, di qualsiasi Bill in discussione, ma in ogni caso di tali modificazioni, la parte 
 che porta il detto Bill (se fosse il Prestantissimo Senato, o Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto 
 Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore) saia avvertita, e la definitiva discussione 
 su tale proposito, sarà aggiornata a ventura stabilita Seduta. 
 
286 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXVIII. 
 
 Se la parte che presenta il suddetto Bill presta il suo assenso alla modificazione come 
 sopra, dovrà manifestarlo nella ventura stabilita Seduta, e la discussione quindi con- 
 tinuerà. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXIX. 
 
 Se la parte sovraindicata dà la sua negativa per la modificazione suddetta, adducendo 
 le sue ragioni, ciocché deve avere luogo entro il periodo espresso nell'Articolo precedente, 
 in tale caso la modificazione verrà riconsiderata, e mandata nuovamente ai voti dell'As- 
 semblea Legislativa, e la discussione continuerà in seguito nel modo qui precedentemente 
 
 prescritto. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXX. 
 
 Competerà in egual modo al Prestantissimo Senato, e a Sua Eccellenza il Lord 
 Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, nei casi in cui qualsiasi Bill viene 
 portato all'Assemblea Legislativa da uno dei suoi Nobilissimi Membri, di proporne la 
 modificazione ; e tale modificazione verrà immediatamente trasmessa all'Assemblea Legis- 
 lativa per essere discussa nella ventura stabilita Seduta, e sarà data notizia sull'istante 
 della decisione dell'Assemblea, alla Parte che desiderava la modificazione, per ottenere 
 nel modo precedentemente indicato, l'assenso o il dissenso della Parte stessa. 
 
 i 
 ARTICOLO XXXI. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà il potere di modificare, e di revocare qualsiasi Legge 
 precedente, e la Parte riguardante la modificazione o la revocazione di tali Leggi, verrà 
 portata alla discussione dell'Assemblea Legislativa dalle Autorità competenti, come nei 
 casi dell'iniziativa delle Leggi, e sarà soggetta in ogni rapporto alle regole e formalità, 
 che si esigono nei casi come sopra. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXXII. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà il potere di regolare le spese ordinarie di questi Stati, e 
 al cominciamento della Riunione di ciascun Parlamento farà su tale proposito tutte le 
 alterazioni, e le modificazioni che stimerà convenevoli ed opportune. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXXIII. 
 
 Sarà posta sulla Tavola della Camera dell'Assemblea Legislativa, sei giorni dopo il 
 cominciamento della sua Riunione, dal Prestantissimo Senato per mezzo del Segretario 
 del suo Dipartimento Generale, la Lista Civile di tutti questi Stati, in ogni suo ramo, la 
 quale verrà o confermata, o modificata, secondo ciò che crederà l'Assemblea Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXXIV. 
 
 Le Autorità competenti, come nei casi dell'iniziativa delle Leggi, avranno potere di 
 proporre, nelle forme e modi voluti come sopra, l'alterazione, o la modificazione della 
 suddetta Lista, ed il modo di procedere su tal proposito sarà uniforme in ogni caso : colla 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 287 
 
 sola differenza, che l'alterazione, o la modificazione della Lista Civile si dovrà fare con 
 una semplice Risoluzione, in luogo di porre la Legge sulla Tavola, come si pratica nei 
 casi delle nuove Leggi. 
 
 ARTICOLO XXXV. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà il potere di fare dei Regolamenti, e delle Ordinanze 
 relative all'andamento delle sue funzioni interne. Tali Regolamenti, ed Ordinanze, 
 dovranno però ottenere l'assenso di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore, né potranno essere in opposizione alle provvidente della 
 Carta Costituzionale, ne alle Leggi stabilite del Paese. 
 
 lì. Theotoky, Presidente. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopulo. 
 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Niccolò Anino Anas." 
 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Bulzo. 
 
 Felice Zamòelly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopulo Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Giallinà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An." Tom." Lefcockilo Cav. r 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridion Metaxà Liseo. 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 Sebastiano D. T Schiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Melissinò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Amelo Condari. 
 Niccolo Cavada. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomà. 
 Niccolò Vrettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dem." Co: Valsamachi, Segretario. 
 
CAPITOLO QUARTO. 
 
 DEI GOVERNI LOCALI. 
 
 SEZIONE I.- 
 DEI GOVERNI LOCALI IX GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO L 
 OLTRE il Governo Generale degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, vi sarà un Governo 
 Locale in ciascuna Isola, il quale agirà in virtù dei Poteri, e sotto gli Ordini del suddetto 
 Governo Generale. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 Alla testa di siffatto Governo Locale in ciascuna Isola, vi sarà un Reggente, e gli 
 Uffiziali del Ministero sotto gli ordini di detto Reggente, saranno un Segretario, un 
 Avvocato Fiscale, un Archivista, ed un Tesoriere. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ciascuna Isola godrà, entro ciascuna delle Isole stesse, 
 gli onori di un Senatore degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore, colla mira di dare il dovuto e pieno effetto all'inerente diritto dell'Alta 
 Protezione sotto cui si trovano questi Stati collocati, destinerà un Rappresentante della 
 Sua Persona da risiedere in ciascuna delle Isole, il quale avrà il titolo di Residente di 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SO VARANO Protettore, e godrà 
 assolutamente in tale sua capacità gli onori dovuti a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Covi- 
 missionario del SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Il Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore in ciascuna Isola sarà, o suddito nativo Inglese, o Jonio. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Oltre il Residente, il Reggente, e le Autorità già accennate, vi sarà in ciascuna Isola 
 un'Amministrazione Municipale. 
 
APPENDIX. 289 
 
 SEZIONE IL"* 
 MODO DI NOMINAZIONE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ciascuna delle Isole verrà nominato dal Senato ; ma 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore avrà, rela- 
 tivamente a tali Elezioni, gli stessi poteri, che ha nelle Elezioni dei Senatori fatti dall'As- 
 semblea Legislativa, giusta il Capitolo Secondo, Sezione Seconda, Articoli 5, Q, e 7. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ciascuna Isola sarà, generalmente parlando, nativo 
 dell'Isola nella quale viene destinato a funzionare; il Senato però avrà il potere di nomi- 
 nare, in caso di bisogno straordinario, un nativo di qualsiasi altra Isola, previa l'appro- 
 vazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 L'Avvocato Fiscale di ciascuna Isola sarà direttamente nominato dal Prestantissimo 
 Senato ; ma tale Elezione sarà soggetta alla stessa negativa di Sua Eccellenza il Lord 
 Alto Commissionario, a cui vanno soggette le Elezioni dei Reggenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Il Segretario, e l'Archivista saranno nominati dal Reggente, e tali Elezioni saranno 
 soggette a simili negative per parte del Prestantissimo Senato, come lo sono quelle dei 
 Reggenti per parte di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Il Tesoriere Locale verrà eletto dal Tesoriere del Governo Generale degli Stati Uniti 
 delle Isole Jonie ; ma tale Elezione dovrà ottenere la sanzione del Prestantissimo Senato, 
 e di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore : ed 
 il Senato in tali Elezioni esigerà le Pieggierie che stimerà opportune. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 L'Amministrazione Municipale sarà composta da cinque membri esclusivamente al 
 Presidente, e sarà eletta dal Sinclito di ciascuna Isola fra il Corpo del Sinclito stesso. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ciascuna Isola sarà Ex-Officio il Presidente dell'Ammi- 
 nistrazione Municipale, ed i membri della medesima continueranno in Uffizio per il corso 
 
290 APPENDIX. 
 
 di due anni e mezzo. Allo spirare di detti due anni e mezzo, il Reggente riunirà Ex- 
 Officio il Sinclito perchè elegga un nuovo Corpo Municipale fra il Corpo di detto 
 
 Sinclito. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 In tutte le questioni da decidersi per voti nell'Amministrazione Municipale, il Pre- 
 santissimo Reggente dell'Isola, nella sua qualità di Presidente del detto Corpo, avrà 
 precisamente gli stessi voti come li ha Sua Altezza il Presidente in Senato. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente, ed i suoi Assessori combineranno la nomina, e la destina- 
 zione dei cinque Uffiziali Municipali nel modo seguente : 
 
 1.° Sarà data pubblica notizia dal Reggente dell'Isola, otto giorni prima del giorno 
 fissato, per l'Elezione del Corpo Municipale. 
 
 2.o II Sinclito Individualmente, o in altra maniera, sarà in libertà di proporre in 
 iscritto quelli che amasse che fossero nominati fra il suo Corpo per Uffiziali Municipali. 
 
 3.° Tale proposizione si denominerà Lista, e verrà trasmessa al Reggente, il quale 
 non riceverà veruna Lista, che gli fosse mandata dopo la mattina del giorno precedente a 
 quello dell'Elezione. 
 
 4.° La detta Lista verrà scrutinata, e regolata dal Reggente, e dai suoi Assessori il 
 giorno prima dell' Elezione, e se nel giorno dell'Elezione si trovasse, che fossero state 
 rimesse più di venti Liste, il Reggente metterà in nomina i venti nomi a favore dei quali 
 osserverà nelle liste maggiorità di firme. 
 
 S.° In caso che non venissero rimesse venti Liste, Egli metterà in nomina tutte le 
 persone a favore delle quali avrà ricevuto delle Liste. 
 
 6.° In caso che non venisse rimessa veruna Lista affatto, il Reggente stesso formerà 
 una doppia Lista, la quale dovrà nulladimeno venire approvata dal Residente di Sua 
 Eccellenza, il Lord Alto Commissionai-io del SOVRANO Protettore; e nei casi di 
 mancanza di Liste, come in ogni altra occasione di mancanza del necessario numero di 
 Liste, il Sinclito voterà sulla doppia Lista del Reggente, approvata dal Residente di Sua 
 Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 Il Sinclito voterà sulle Liste suespresse a viva voce, ed il Reggente coi suoi Assessori 
 dichiareranno immantinente i nonù di dieci persone del Sinclito, i quali avessero ottenuto 
 maggiorità di voti in loro favore dagl' individui presenti ; dalli quali il Reggente, previa 
 l'approvazione del Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissiojiario, dovrà 
 sceo-liere cinque, entro lo spazio di ventiquattr' ore, che si dovranno considerare come 
 legalmente eletti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 In caso di qualsiasi diversità di opinione intorno alle suddette Elezioni fra il Residente 
 ed il Reggente, tali differenze verranno tosto assoggettate al Senato per la sua definitiva 
 
APPENDIX. 291 
 
 decisione, e per quella di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore. 
 
 SEZIONE III - 
 MODO DI PROCEDERE, E POTERI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Il Reggente di ciascuna Isola farà le funzioni del Governo Esecutivo dell' Isola, in 
 virtù degli ordini del Senato degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 Il Reggente di ciascuna Isola farà osservare i Regolamenti Municipali attualmente 
 vigenti, o quelli che venissero in seguito statuiti nell'Isola stessa. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Il Reggente di ciascuna Isola terrà per mezzo del suo Segretario un esatto Processo 
 Verbale del giornaliero suo operato, e tale Processo Verbale verrà giornalmente trasmesso 
 al Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protet- 
 tore, a sua informazione. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Non sarà valido l'atto di verun Reggente di ciascuna Isola, se non sarà registrato nel 
 Processo Verbale del giorno che ha avuto luogo, firmato dal Segretario, e certificato col 
 visto del Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Il Reggente di ciascuna Isola avrà il potere di sospendere dalle sue funzioni qualsiasi 
 Funzionario pubblico ; ma tale sospensione dovrà venire prima sanzionata dal Residente 
 di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, ed avrà 
 forza soltanto finché il Prestantissimo Senato manifesti la sua volontà su tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Nei casi d'importanza riguardanti il Governo Esecutivo, il Prestantissimo Reggente 
 
 di ciascuna Isola avrà il potere di chiamare in sua assistenza il Segretario, e l'Avvocato 
 
 Fiscale, come suoi Consiglieri, e l'opinione di questi sarà registrata nel Processo Verbale, 
 
 ma la responsabilità di ogni misura l'avrà sempre il Reggente medesimo, come il solo che 
 
 ha voce deliberativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Quattro dovranno essere le Sedute Mensuali del Consiglio Municipale, ed i giorni, 
 in cui dovranno avere luogo, saranno fissati dal Reggente di ogn' Isola. 
 
 Pp2 
 
292 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 Esclusivamente alle quattro Sedute Mensuali, il Reggente di ciascuna Isola, convo- 
 cherà straordinariamente il Consiglio Municipale qualora lo stimasse necessario. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Le funzioni dell'Amministrazione Municipale di ciascuna Isola vengono classificate 
 come segue : 
 
 l.o Agricoltura, Istruzione pubblica, ed ogni oggetto d'Industria Nazionale. 
 
 2.o Commercio, e Navigazione. 
 
 S.o Annona. 
 
 4.o Polizia Civile, e Stabilimenti di Carità. 
 
 5.° Religione, Morale, ed Economia Pubblica. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente dell' Isola, nella sua qualità di Presidente della Magistra- 
 tura Municipale, destinerà ciascuno dei Membri della Magistratura stessa alle rispettive 
 funzioni dei suddetti Dipartimenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Ciascuno dei Membri, destinati come sopra, avrà il potere di regolare i dettagli del 
 Dipartimento affidato alla sua cura particolare, giusta le leggi vigenti, e i Regolamenti 
 Municipali ; ma deesi chiaramente intendere, che verun Magistrato Municipale ha il 
 diritto d'incorrere ad alcuna spesa riguardante il suo Dipartimento. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 In ogni caso, che alcuno del Magistrato Municipale stimasse qualche spesa necessaria 
 da farsi, questa dovrà venire assoggettata all' intero Consiglio Municipale, dove se verrà 
 approvata, si dovrà in seguito trasmetterla al Prestantissimo Senato per la sua appro- 
 vazione. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 Non si farà alcuna spesa straordinaria, a meno che non sia qualche urgenza, né dal 
 Prestantissimo Reggente, né dal Consiglio Municipale di veruna Isola, senza previa 
 sanzione del Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore; e tutte le spese straordinarie di ogn' Isola si dovranno assoggettare al 
 Senato, e dovranno essere definitivamente decise dal medesimo, coli' approvazione di Sua 
 Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protkttore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 
 Il Prestantissimo Reggente di ogn'Isola avrà il potere di fare i temporarii Regola- 
 menti Municipali, che gli sembrassero necessarii; ma tutti i Regolamenti di tal natura 
 si dovranno tosto trasmettere al Prestantissimo Senato per la sua approvazione, e per 
 quella di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
APPENDIX. 293 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 Il Segretario di ogn'Isola, come pure l'Archivista d'ogn' Isola, dovranno essere 
 sempre nativi dell'Isola stessa nella quale si trovano impiegati; essi saranno i particolari 
 Uffiziali del Governo attaccati al Prestantissimo Reggente; e funzioneranno nella 
 maniera prescritta dagli attuali Regolamenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 L' Avvocato Fiscale di ciascuna Isola dovrà essere nativo delle Isole Jonie, ed eseguirà 
 le sue funzioni nella maniera prescritta dai vigenti Regolamenti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIL 
 
 Il Tesoriere Locale di ciascuna Isola otterrà le sue istruzioni dal Tesoriere del 
 Governo Generale, come verrà in seguito ordinato, e dovrà essere nativo dell'Isola ove 
 viene nominato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIII. 
 
 Il Residente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore in ciascuna Isola avrà il potere di sospendere l'operato di] qualsiasi delle 
 Autorità Locali dell'Isola stessa, affine che tale operato venga posto sotto 1' esame del 
 Governo Generale. Il detto Residente però dovrà in pari tempo addurre in iscritto le 
 ragioni, che lo inducono a ciò fare. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIX. 
 
 I provvedimenti di questo Capitolo s'intenderanno generalmente applicabili ai 
 Governi Locali di tutte le Isole, abbenchè sieno stati fatti principalmente colla norma 
 dei Governi delle grandi Isole ; s' intenderà pertanto chiaramente, che il Prestantissimo 
 Senato coli' approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore, potrà ristringere entro i limiti di giustizia le Cariche indicate, per quanto 
 riguarda le Isole minori, e secondo che lo esigessero la natura e le circostanze delle 
 medesime, per ciò che riguarda il Segretario, l'Archivista, il Tesoriere, 1' Avvocato 
 Fiscale, ed il Corpo Municipale. 
 
 B. Theotolcy, Presidente. 
 Cav. Cai ichiopulo. 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 Niccolò Anino Anas,' 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 D. Foscardi. 
 D. Bulzo. 
 Felice Zambelly. 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 Valerio Stai. 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimatù 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopido Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Giallinà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An." Tom." Lefcochilo Cav. T 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridion Metaxà Liseo. 
 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 
 Sebastiano D. T Schiadan. 
 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 
294 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Melissinò, 
 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Conciari. 
 Niccolò Cavadà. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomà. 
 Niccolò Vrettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dan, Co: Valsamachi, Segretario. 
 
 - 
 
CAPITOLO QUINTO. 
 
 DELLO STABILIMENTO ECCLESIASTICO- 
 
 SEZIONE L m 
 DELLO STABILIMENTO ECCLESIASTICO IN GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 I<0 Stabilimento Religioso degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie consisterà negli Arcives- 
 covi e Vescovi, ne*Vicarj (Grandi Economi), ne'Curati di tutte le Parrocchie, e ne'Con- 
 venti ed Istituzioni Religiose, tutti quanti della Religione Ortodossa Dominante di questi 
 Stati, cioè della Greca. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 La Religione Ortodossa Dominante dell'Alta Potenza Protettrice, sotto la quale gli 
 Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sono esclusivamente collocati, verrà esercitata ne' medesimj 
 dagl'Individui che la professano, nella più ampia forma, e con la più estesa libertà. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 La Religione Cattolica Romana verrà specialmente protetta ; ed ogni altra forma di 
 Religione sarà tollerata. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Non sarà permessa veruna esterna forma di Adorazione Religiosa in questi Stati, che 
 non sia delle Chiese Ortodosse Cristiane summentovate. 
 
 SEZIONE II* 
 DICHIARATORIA. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Siccome il conveniente mantenimento di uno Stabilimento Religioso va essenzialmente 
 unito colla conservazione della morale, del buon ordine, e della felicità di ogni popolo ; e 
 non essendovi cosa, che più efficacemente contribuisca a far rispettare e prosperare tale 
 stabilimento, quanto il mantenimento di un convenevole numero di qualificati Pastori del 
 
296 APPENDIX. 
 
 medesimo : e siccome poi la fisica divisione di questi Stati necessariamente esige, che si 
 presti grande attenzione su tale proposito; e mentre vi è ogni ragione di credere, che 
 anticamente alcune di queste Isole godessero il vantaggio di avere de'Vescovi attaccati ai 
 loro Stabilimenti Religiosi, i quali vennero in progresso del tempo aboliti, si dichiara : 
 essere conveniente, che in aggiunta al riconosciuto Arcivescovo o Vescovo dell'Isola di 
 Corni, di quello di Cefalonia, di quello di Santa Maura, e di quello di Cerigo, vi debba 
 essere un Arcivescovo o Vescovo per l'Isola di Zante, un Vescovo per l'Isola di Itaca, ed 
 un Vescovo per l'Isola di Paxò ; e si dichiara inoltre, che il tempo, ed il modo di rivol- 
 gersi al Beatissimo Capo della Religione Ortodossa Greca a Costantinopoli, intorno a 
 questo argomento, sarà riservato a SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Pbotettore, ben 
 inteso però sempre, che la nomina di tali Dignitari della Chiesa non debba portar seco 
 verun addizionale dispendio alle Rendite di questi Stati. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 Emendasi nel precedente Articolo tenuto opportuno proposito relativamente al neces- 
 sario Stabilimento dell'Ortodossa Religione Dominante di questi Stati, viene qui dichia- 
 rato .- che si rende cosa assai inopportuna, anzi impossibile per questi Stati (avuto 
 riguardo al conveniente mantenimento che si renderebbe indispensabile da prestarsi ai 
 necessarj Pastori di qualunque sistema di Religione Cristiana) il sopportare la spesa, o il 
 nutrire la massima di dover mantenere o spesare, in qualunque modo, o con qualunque 
 fondo che si potrebbe ad altro pur utile uso impiegare, dei Prelati o de' Dignitarj di 
 qualsiasi altra Religione, fuorché quelli della Religione Dominante di questi Stati, eccet- 
 tuando soltanto que' tali Prelati o Dignitarj di quelle tali Chiese, che trovansi attualmente 
 Residenti, e in funzione in questi Stati, e ciò durante la loro sola vita. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Rendendosi sommamente opportuno, che vi debba essere un Metropolita della Reli- 
 gione Dominante della Chiesa Ortodossa Greca in questi Stati, il quale possieda, coll'as- 
 senso del Santo Padre della Chiesa Greca il Beatissimo Patriarca di Costantinopoli, una 
 generale potestà spirituale, e la supremazia al di sopra di tutti i Pastori della Chiesa 
 Dominante di questi Stati, si dichiara : che sarebbe conveniente (qualora tale misura non 
 si opponesse ai Canoni, Precetti, e Regolamenti della detta Chiesa;, che il suddetto 
 Metropolita debba essere l'Arcivescovo o Vescovo debitamente nominato, e regolarmente 
 ordinato dal Beatissimo Patriarca di Costantinopoli, delle quattro Isole Maggiori; vale 
 a dire: che i detti Arcivescovi o Vescovi debitamente nominati, e regolarmente con- 
 sacrati, abbiano in forza di questa Carta Costituzionale, tutti e cadaun di essi in turno, 
 ad esercitare le funzioni di Metropolita per la durata di un Parlamento. Ma se per caso 
 questa tale disposizione apparisse nel benché minimo grado contraria ai Canoni della 
 Chiesa Dominante, viene inoltre dichiarato, che l'Arcivescovo o VescoTO di Corfu, o di 
 Cetalonia, o di Zante, o di Santa Maura, debba essere per serie Metropolita della Chiesa 
 Dominante Greca; e (quando non fosse l'Arcivescovo, o Vescovo di Corfu] sia tenuto, se 
 ciò non si oppone ai Canoni della Chiesa Dominante, di trovarsi presente presso la Sede 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 297 
 
 del Governo nel corso di tutte le sessioni del Parlamento ; ben inteso sempre, quando sia 
 stabilito un Arcivescovato o Vescovato per l'Isola di Zante. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Siccome la definitiva disposizione, che dovrà aver luogo in conseguenza della prima 
 clausula dichiaratoria di questa Sezione, o qualunque altro cangiamento (*e pure ne 
 seguirà), non possono essere fissati in fino a che non si manifesti la volontà del SOVRANO 
 Protbttohe, e del Beatissimo Padre della Chiesa Dominante, si dichiara : che il Parla- 
 mento di questi Stati si riserva ogni e qualunque facoltà, coll'as»enso di Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Atto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, di fare quelle tali Modifica- 
 zioni, Cangiamenti, o disposizioni relative sia al modo di Elezione de' Dignitarj della 
 Chiesa Dominante, che ad ogni altro punto connesso colla Religione Dominante, il quale 
 non si opponga alla Potestà spirituale del Capo della Religione Dominante, il Beatissimo 
 Patriarca di Costantinopoli, ed alle Leggi regolari stabilite dalle Sante Sinodi della 
 Chiesa Greca. 
 
 B. Tìieotoky, Presidente. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopulo. 
 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Niccolò Anino Anas." 
 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Bulzo. 
 
 Felice Zambelly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopulo Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Gialli nò q.™ Anastasio. 
 
 An." Tom." Lefcochilo CavS 
 
 yiccolò Agorasiò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridion Metaxà Liseo. 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 Sebastiano D. T Schiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Mei issi nò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Condari. 
 Niccolò Cavadà. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomd. 
 Niccolò Frettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Bichard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dcm." Co: Valsamachi. Segretario. 
 
 Qq 
 
CAPITOLO SESTO. 
 
 DEL POTERE GIUDIZIARIO. 
 
 SEZIONE I. ma 
 DEL POTERE GIUDIZIARIO IN GENERALE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 XL Potere Giudiziario degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie consisterà in ciascuna Isola in 
 Tre Tribunali, cioè : un Civile, un Criminale, ed un Tribunale di Commercio, oltre ad 
 un Tribunale di Appello, composto come qui appresso verrà indicato. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Ciascuno dei detti Tribunali sarà composto da uno o più Giudici, nel modo che 
 verrà stabilito dal Prestantissimo Senato, sulle considerazioni del Supremo Consiglio di 
 Giustizia, e dietro l'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Il Giudice, o i Giudici dei sopradetti Tribunali seguono in rango subito dopo il 
 Reggente dell'Isola a cui appartengono. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Indipendentemente dai suddetti Tribunali, vi saranno in ciascuna delle Isole, delle 
 Corti per le lievi offese, e per lievi contese Civili ; e le persone destinate a presiedere alle 
 dette Corti, si denomineranno Giudici di Pace. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 I Giudici di Pace delle Corti minori in ogn' Isola seguiranno subito in rango i 
 Giudici delle Corti superiori. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Oltre le accennate Corti delle varie Isole, vi sarà una Suprema Corte, o Alta Corte 
 di Appello, presso la Sede del Governo, e sarà denominata Sitpremo Consiglio di Giustizia 
 degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie. 
 
APPENDIX. 299 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 I Membri della Suprema Corte di Giustizia saranno in parità di rango coi Senatori 
 degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, e seguiranno nella precedenza subito dopo di essi. 
 
 SEZIONE IL* 
 MODO DI ELEZIONE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 I Giudici dei Tre Tribunali delle diverse Isole verranno scelti dal Senato, e dovranno 
 essere approvati da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettoee. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 I Giudici di Pace saranno eletti in ognTsola dal Reggente della stessa, e dovranno 
 essere approvati dal Prestantissimo Senato. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 II modo di procedere in ciascuno di questi due casi, sarà lo stesso come nei casi nei 
 quali viene data la negativa per parte di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario 
 del SOVRANO Protettore, o del Senato. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 I Membri ordinarli del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia degli Stati Uniti delle Isole 
 
 Jonie saranno quattro, e verranno eletti nella maniera seguente : due dei detti Membri, 
 
 dovendo essere sudditi Jonii, saranno eletti dal Prestantissimo Senato coli' approvazione 
 
 di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore : gli altri 
 
 due, che saranno sudditi Inglesi, oppure Jonii, verranno nominati da SUA MAESTÀ il 
 
 SOVRANO Protettore di questi Stati per mezzo di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto 
 
 Commissionario. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Indipendentemente dai Membri ordinarli del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia, vi 
 saranno due Membri straordinarj, cioè Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato degli Stati 
 Uniti delle Isole Jonie, e Sua Eccellekza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore. 
 
 SEZIONE III - 
 
 MODO DI PROCEDERE, E POTERI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Il potere di perdonare, o di modificare la pena in casi Criminali, eccetto quanto verrà 
 in appresso provveduto, appartiene al Prestantissimo Senato, come sarà stabilito per 
 
 Qq2 
 
300 APPENDIX. 
 
 Legge; ma per concedere tale perdono, o modificazione, sarà necessario, che i due terzi 
 del Prestantissimo Senato, cioè quattro Membri, debbano concorrere in questa opinione. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Le Corti Civili, Criminali, e di Commercio nelle diverse Isole, per ora agiranno, in 
 
 ogni caso e circostanza, a norma delle Leggi, e pratiche, non meno che dei Regolamenti 
 
 attualmente in vigore; salvo ed eccettuato quanto potrà venire in seguito ordinato su tale 
 
 proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 I Giudici di Pace delle Corti Minori in ogn' Isola agiranno pure in egual modo ; 
 salvo ed eccettuato quanto potrà venire in seguito ordinato su tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 II Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia, in ogni caso di parità di voti nella decisione di 
 qualsiasi questione, rimetterà l'affare a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore, ed a Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato, esponendo breve- 
 mente in iscritto le ragioni di tale diversità di parere ; e quelli noteranno, a tergo di tale 
 rimessa, la loro decisione, che dovrà essere considerata come definitiva. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 In caso di disparità di opinione, in argomenti come sopra, fra Sua Altezza il Presi- 
 dente del Senato, e Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO 
 Protettore, quest'ultimo avrà il voto preponderante, e la sua decisione sarà considerata 
 come definitivo nell'argomento ; ma sarà nello stesso tempo tenuto, nel notare la mede- 
 sima a tergo della rimessa della Corte, di dichiarare, che la detta decisione ebbe luogo 
 previo il suo voto preponderante. 
 
 ARTICOLO VL 
 
 In tutti i casi nei quali non vi sarà parità di voti nelle decisioni del Supremo Con- 
 siglio di Giustizia, le medesime saranno considerate definitive. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Non esistendo nella pratica di tutti gli Stati verità politica più generalmente riconos- 
 ciuta, e più evidentemente dimostrata, di quella, che la Felicità, la Prosperità, e il Benes- 
 sere di una intera Popolazione dipendono essenzialissimamente dalla sollecita ed equa 
 distribuzione della giustizia verso di tutti ; e risultando chiaramente, dai moltissimi 
 disordini giudiziarii ch'ebbero già luogo, e che tutt'ora continuano in questi Stati, deri- 
 vanti principalmente dall'imperfezione dei Codici Civili e Criminali fin'ora vigenti in 
 questi luoghi, e dalla Procedura relativa ai detti Codici, deficiente, o inapplicabile agli 
 usi ed ai costumi delle Popolazioni delle Isole Jonie : che la riformazione di un nuovo 
 Codice Civile e Criminale, e di una nuova Procedura, richiede gravissima considerazione, 
 ciò che pure occuperà lungo tempo : che non si può fare verun salutare e permanente 
 
APPENDIX. 301 
 
 stabilimento per le Corti Giudiziarie, fino a che non vengano preparate e stabilite conve- 
 nienti Leggi, e modo di procedere : e che in fine prevalse in questi Stati l'uso di rivol- 
 gersi, in ogni caso di controversia giudiziaria, ai Capi dei Governi Locali, e comune- 
 mente Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario stesso, per apporvi rimedio alle 
 decisioni delle varie Corti di Giustizia: colla mira perciò di apportare un temporario e 
 provvisorio sollievo ai già enunciati disordini giudiziarii, e soprattutto onde por fine alle 
 arbitrarie decisioni occorse in moltissime circostanze ; viene dichiarato '. che il Supremo 
 Consiglio di Giustizia degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, costituito giusta l'articolo 6.0 
 della Sezione 1.» di questo Capitolo, sarà rivestito dei seguenti poteri, sino a che sia for- 
 mato e stabilito un Codice completo di Leggi Civili, e Criminali, ed una Procedura 
 relativa al Codice stesso, purché tale Codice, e tale Procedura, vengano compiuti, e messi 
 in pratica entro il periodo di tre anni. 
 
 1. Il detto Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia collettivamente avrà il potere di preparare 
 il Codice Civile, e Criminale sovraccennato, e la Procedura riguardante il Codice stesso. 
 
 2. Esso regolerà il modo con cui verranno costituite le Corti inferiori, e di Appello 
 in ciascuna Isola. 
 
 3. Avrà potere, e giurisdizione in tutti gli Stati delle Isole Jonie, e loro dipendenze. 
 
 4. Risiederà presso la Sede del Governo, ed avrà il potere di delegare la sua autorità 
 ad alcuni dei suoi Membri, onde recarsi in visita nelle varie Isole, qualora tale delega- 
 zione venisse considerata necessaria dalla Suprema Corte, ed autorizzata dal Prestantis- 
 simo Senato coll'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 5. Le Delegazioni in ogni caso di tal natura consisteranno in un Membro Jonio, e in 
 un Membro Britannico del suo Corpo, ed il Prestantissimo Senato avrà il potere, previa 
 l'approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore, di surrogare uno dei Giudici, o altra Persona di questi Stati, versata nelle 
 Leggi, per agire in quella visita come Membro del Consiglio Supremo di Giustizia. 
 
 6. Il Senato avrà parimente il potere di surrogare in egual modo un secondo Giudice, 
 o altra Persona versata nelle Leggi, per occupare nel Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia 
 presso la Sede del Governo, il posto vacante del Membro Jonio che si fosse recato nella 
 visita. 
 
 7. Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, in 
 ogni caso di tal natura, avrà parimente il potere di nominare un Suddito Jonio, ovvero 
 Inglese, per agire in tal visita come Membro del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia. 
 
 8. Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore nominerà un Suddito Inglese, o Jonio, per occupare nel Supremo Consiglio 
 di Giustizia presso la Sede del Governo, il Posto vacante del Membro Britannico che 
 fosse andato alla visita, 
 
 9. Nei casi in cui venisse stimato necessarioi, che il Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia si 
 dovesse portare alla visita, e che si rendesse impossibile o altamente sconveniente, che 
 due dei membri del medesimo potessero recarvisi in persona; in tal caso la surrogazione 
 di tre Giudici, o di tre altre Persone versate nelle Leggi, in luogo di due, sarà ammissi- 
 
302 APPENDIX. 
 
 bile nel modo, e nella forma già enunciata; osservando sempre, che la Corte di visita 
 debba consistere in due sudditi Jonii, e in due altri, o Jonii, o Britannici, e che i Posti 
 nel Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia presso la Sede del Governo, sieno occupati in simil 
 modo da un numero eguale. 
 
 10. Tutte le decisioni del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia in visita, saranno valide, e 
 registrate come decisioni del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia degli Stati Uniti delle Isole 
 Jonie. 
 
 11. La detta Corte avrà tutta l'autorità inerente al potere Giudiziario, insieme colla 
 latitudine necessaria per esercitare pronta e retta amministrazione di Giustizia Civile, 
 Criminale, e Correzionale, in tutti i casi, ed in quelli ancora in cui non esistessero Codici 
 di Leggi generali e positive ; dove non vi fossero forme regolari di Procedura ; e dove vi 
 fossero perniciosi abusi e disordini, che sarà suo dovere di correggere e di sradicare. 
 
 12. Il Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia essendo per ora il Potere Supremo Giudiziario 
 di questi Stati, i Capi dei Governi Locali, ed il Principale Segretario del Governo da 
 parte di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario, consegneranno tutte le carte 
 riguardanti qualsiasi materia Giudiziaria pendente innanzi ai medesimi, per essere dal 
 Consiglio stesso definitivamente giudicata e decisa. 
 
 13. Le Sentenze definitive emmesse fino alli 16 Febbrajo 1816, giorno dell' arrivo di 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore nella Sede del Governo, non saranno comprese nel suddetto articolo ; a meno 
 che, giusta le vigenti forme, regole, e regolamenti, non vi fossero in questo momento 
 delle Petizioni innanzi le Autorità Locali, o innanzi Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Com- 
 missionario del SOVRANO Protettore, su tale proposito. 
 
 14. Il Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia a\rà esclusivamente anche il potere di decidere 
 come Corte di Cassazione; e tutte le carte esistenti presso le Corti di Cassazione, che 
 avvessero fin'ora esistito in questi Stati, saranno consegnate al Supremo Consiglio di 
 Giustizia per la sua decisione. 
 
 1 5. Avrà il potere di giudicare ogni reclamo che venisse fatto con Petizione, intorno 
 a violazione di qualunque forma della Procedura ordinaria, di qualsiasi Legge Munici- 
 pale, di qualsiasi Statuto ed uso vigente, o di prevaricazione di Legge ; ma in simili casi 
 dovrà fare un Rapporto particolare al Prestantissimo Senato, affinchè questo debba pren* 
 dere in considerazione la necessità di punire il Giudice, o i Giudici, colpevoli di sì illegale 
 procedere : prima però che si possa prendere qualsiasi misura sulla punizione degli stessi, 
 vi sarà necessaria la sanzione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 16. Avrà la giurisdizione di Appello sovra ciascun'altra Corte di Appello di questi 
 Dominii nei casi straordinari di abuso Giudiziario, o di prevaricazione di Legge ; e qua- 
 lora le parti interessate bramassero d'accordo appellare direttamente al Supremo Con- 
 siglio di Giustizia, senza rivolgersi alle Corti inferiori di Appello, lo potranno fare. 
 
 17. L'oggetto dell'Istituzione del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia essendo quello di 
 apporre rimedio nei casi in cui errassero i Giudici delle Corti inferiori nelle loro sentenze, 
 o decidessero in violazione delle Leggi, deesi chiaramente intendere : ch'Esso ha autorità, 
 
APPENDIX. 303 
 
 e poteri non solo di giudicare le dette Cause, ma eziandio di decidere se le Petizioni 
 riguardanti le Cause stesse sieno frivole, vessanti, basate sovra fondamento insussistente, 
 o presentate collo scopo di recare dilazione o Btancheggio agli Avversarii ; ed in ogni 
 caso dichiarato per frivolo e vessativo, avrà il potere di pronunziare condanne di multa 
 nel modo che stimerà giusto ed equo i e tali multe anderanno a benefizio, o del Pubblico, 
 o delle parti avversarie secondo le decisioni. 
 
 18. Il Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia avrà il potere di giudicare e colla norma 
 dell'equità, e colla scorta della Legge, tutti i casi che gli fossero presentati ; avrà il potere 
 nella sua capacità collettiva di regolare la sua procedura, di stabilire le sue forme, e di 
 ordinare tali alterazioni, o cangiamenti nella procedura delle Corti inferiori, quali Esso 
 stimasse opportuni, sino alla formazione del nuovo Codice Civile, e Criminale. 
 
 19. Avrà nella sua capacità collettiva il potere di nominare il suo Segretario o i suoi 
 Segretari, ed il suo ministero, non che di eleggere il suo Presidente ordinario, il quale 
 dopo che sarà eletto, si denominerà il Prestantissimo Capo di Giustizia, e seguirà in rango 
 immediatamente Sua Altezza il Presidente del Prestantissimo Senato degli Stati Uniti 
 delle Isole Jonie. 
 
 20. Avrà il potere di giudicare tutti i casi di reità pubblica commessi da qualsiasi 
 Funzionario del Governo ; ma nell'esercitare questa parte delle sua giurisdizione, il 
 Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia sarà formato dai suoi Membri Ordinarii, e da altri quat- 
 tro individui, due dei quali saranno aggiunti dal Prestantissimo Senato, previa l'appro- 
 vazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore, e due da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario 
 stesso, i quali saranno o Jonii, o Britanni ; ed in caso di parità di voti nel detto Con- 
 siglio, così constituito, il Prestantissimo Presidente dello stesso avrà il voto preponde- 
 rante. 
 
 21. Avrà il potere di vigilare sulla condotta di tutti gli Avvocati, Intervenienti, 
 Notaj, Procuratori, ed altri simili Agenti, e di frenarli all'uopo, quando si trovassero 
 giudiziariamente impiegati, non che d'infliggere ai medesimi la pena della carcere, o di 
 multa, o di sospensione dalle loro professioni, quando si rendessero colpevoli di man- 
 canza dal dovuto rispetto verso i Giudici, o quando non osservassero un contegno di 
 decenza, e di decoro, tanto essenzialmente necessario pel mantenimento della dignità, e 
 dell'onore degli stabilimenti Giudiziarii. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 Siccome nell'Articolo precedente viene fatto un provvedimento onde stabilire una 
 Corte interina di Giustizia sotto la denominazione di Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia 
 degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, e mantenerla fino a che il nuovo Codice di Leggi 
 Civili, e Criminali, e la nuova Procedura vengano preparati e adottati : provvedimento, 
 che serve per ora come riserva fino all'epoca futura del combinamento della Costituzione 
 definitiva di questi Stati, per quanto riguarda il potere giudiziario degli stessi; si 
 dichiara: che quando il detto Codice Civile e Criminale, e la detta Procedura saranno 
 formati, o quando saranno spirati i tre anni per i quali il Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia 
 
304 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 fu stabilito ; l'Assemblea Legislativa di questi Stati, in virtù di un Messagio, che le verrà 
 a tale uopo trasmesso da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, si riunirà in Seduta per l'immediata considera- 
 zione dei detti argomenti riservati dalla Costituzione, e tutto ciò che verrà statuito pel 
 definitivo combinamento delle Corti Legali di Giustizia e per la formazione del Codice 
 Civile e Criminale, e della Procedura, si dovrà prima di tutto (come nel caso della 
 Costituzione stessa) assoggettare a SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, e 
 venendo ratificato, sarà poscia per ogni rapporto considerato come parte integrante della 
 stessa Costituzione di questi Stati. 
 
 B. Theotohy, Presidente. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopìdo. 
 
 Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Niccolò Anino Anas." 
 
 Vettor Caridi. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Bulzo. 
 
 Felice Zambelly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scordilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopulo Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Gìallìnà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An." Tom. Lefcochilo Cav. r 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D, r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridion Metaxà Liseo. 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 Sebastiano D. r Sckiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Arvanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Melissinò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Condari. 
 Niccolò Cavadà. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomà. 
 Niccolò Frettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dem.° Co: Valsamachi, Segretario, 
 
CAPITOLO SETTIMO. 
 
 MISCELLANEA. 
 
 SEZIONE I. ma 
 DEI PRIVILEGI E DELLE PREVARICAZIONI DI UFFIZIO. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 X MEMBRI dell'Assemblea Legislativa degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie non possono 
 essere privati dalla loro libertà personale per controversie Civili, durante la Convocazione 
 del Parlamento. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato, ed i Senatori degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, 
 non che i Reggenti delle diverse Isole componenti i detti Stati, sono del pari protetti 
 dalla perdita della libertà personale, relativamente a controversie Civili, durante il tempo 
 eh' esercitano le alte loro funzioni. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Tutti i Pubblici Funzionar) sono soggetti alle Leggi del Paese in ogni caso Civile o 
 Criminale ; salvo ed eccettuato quanto potrà venire in seguito provveduto su tale pro- 
 posito. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Ogni Pubblico Funzionario può venire sospeso, o altrimenti punito, per prevarica- 
 zione di Uffizio, giusta quanto sarà in appresso ordinato su tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Il potere di sospendere per prevaricazione di Uffizio lo avrà l'Autorità che ha l'Ele- 
 zione dell'Uffizio stesso, coll'assenso però del Potere che approva tale Elezione, salvi ed 
 eccettuati i casi riguardanti gli Uffiziali Municipali, nella qual circostanza il potere di 
 sospenderli è devoluto ai Reggenti delle Isole, e sarà riservato al Senato il potere di 
 approvare tale sospensione. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Il potere di sospendere lo avrà in pari guisa l'Autorità che approva tale Elezione, col 
 concorso di quella che la fa. 
 
 Rr 
 
306 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 In ogni caso di sospensione per prevaricazione di Uffizio, prima che sia emmesso 
 alcun ordine su tale proposito, si registreranno le ragioni per cui tale sospensione ha 
 luogo, e copia di siffatto registro verrà trasmessa al Funzionario sospeso. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 Qualsiasi Funzionario pubblico, sospeso per prevaricazione di Uffizio, avrà diritto 
 entro il periodo di un mese dopo seguita la sospensione, di rivolgersi con Petizione 
 air Assemblea Legislativa, pregando che vengano esaminate le ragioni di tale sospensione, 
 e PAssemblea Legislativa ne entrerà immediatamente nell'esame. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Se l'Assemblea Legislativa non si trovasse riunita in quel tempo, siffatta Petizione 
 sarà trasmessa, entro lo stesso periodo, al Prestantissimo Presidente della medesima, e 
 verrà considerata sotto ogni aspetto, e per ogni conto come trasmessa all'Assemblea 
 Legislativa in epoca in cui è riunita. L'Assemblea stessa nel tempo della sua riunione 
 deciderà immediatamente intorno alla detta Petizione presentata nella forma suddetta. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa non potrà annullare la sospensione di verun Pubblico Fun- 
 zionario, a meno che non vi concorra la volontà di due terzi dei suoi membri presenti, i 
 quali votino a tale effetto. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 In tutti i casi in cui non venisse fatta alcuna domanda, come sopra, all'Assemblea 
 Legislativa, entro il periodo di un mese dalla data della sospensione di un Funzionario 
 pubblico ; oppure, ove l'Assemblea Legislativa non convenisse di annullare nella maniera 
 suindicata siffatta sospensione, tale Funzionario sarà considerato come dimesso, e l'Au- 
 torità competente nominerà altri al suo posto. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 L'Assemblea Legislativa avrà potere essa stessa di sospendere qualsiasi Funzionario 
 pubblico, qualora due terzi dei suoi membri presenti vi prestassero il loro concorso, e 
 purché, in ogni circostanza, il Potere ch'ebbe ad approvare tale Elezione, vi dia pure il 
 suo assenso; e per siffatta sospensione non avrà luogo alcun appello. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIII. 
 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente del Prestantissimo Senato, non potrà in verun modo venire 
 sospeso dal suo Uffizio, durante il periodo in cui Egli funziona nell'Alto suo Posto. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIV. 
 
 Sua Altezza il Presidente del Prestantissimo Senato può essere posto in istato di 
 
APPENDIX. 307 
 
 accusa per qualsiasi prevaricazione di Uffizio, entro il periodo di sei mesi dopo la cessa- 
 zione di questo, e purché venti sei voti per lo meno dell'Assemblea Legislativa sanzionino 
 la convenienza di tale misura, ed il Prestantissimo Senato unitamente a Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, conven- 
 gano pure su tale proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO XV. 
 
 La sentenza del Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia relativamente alle accuse prodotte 
 innanzi al medesimo contro Sua Altezza il Presidente del Senato, non avrà esecuzione, 
 finche non abbia ottenuta l'approvazione di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protet- 
 tore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVI. 
 
 Ogni Funzionario Pubblico sospeso, o dimesso di fatto, per prevaricazione di Uffizio, 
 potrà essere tradotto dinanzi al Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia da qualsiasi delle Auto- 
 rità, ch'ebbero ad ordinare tale sospensione, o dimissione di fatto, affinchè venga giudi- 
 cato dal detto Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia intorno alle accuse, delitti di Stato, o altri 
 delitti, secondo che si stimerà necessario; e riconosciuta che sarà la reità del Funzionario 
 pubblico, la sua dimissione da tale impiego non verrà in alcun modo calcolata come 
 ragione di veruna mitigazione di pena. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVII. 
 Sarà in appresso formata una Legge speciale, che definirà i delitti di Stato, e le pre- 
 varicazioni di uffizio, con le pene relative da infliggersi, non che il modo di produrre 
 accuse su tale riguardo; ma veruna sospensione, o dimissione, potrà di fatto aver luogo, 
 né verun'accusa potrà essere presentata, o processo incoato, dinanzi al Supremo Consiglio 
 di Giustizia, se non se individualmente; né verun Corpo di Pubblici Funzionarii potrà, 
 come Corpo, venir mai di fatto sospeso, dimesso, accusato, o processato. 
 
 ARTICOLO XVIII. 
 
 Il Potere di dimettere qualsiasi Funzionario Pubblico dal suo Uffizio è riservato a 
 SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, salvi, ed eccettuati, Sua Altezza il Presi- 
 dente del Senato, i Membri del Prestantissimo Senato stesso, ed i Nobilissimi Membri 
 dell' Assemblea Legislativa: e la volontà di SUA MAESTÀ su tale proposito verrà 
 dichiarata per mezzo di un'autorizzazione del Segretario di Stato di SUA MAESTÀ. 
 
 ARTICOLO XIX. 
 
 Il potere di dilazione di pena nei casi di reità di Stato lo avrà Sua Eccellenza il 
 Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ; ma il potere di perdono lo avrà in ciò, 
 unicamente SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 Rr2 
 
308 APPENDIX. 
 
 SEZIONE II. da 
 STABILIMENTO MILITARE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 La diffesa Militare degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie essendo posta nelle mani di 
 SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, il solo Stabilimento Militare regolare 
 consisterà nelle Forze di SUA MAESTÀ. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 La Forza Militare degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie in ciascuna Isola sarà un Corpo 
 
 di Milizie. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 L' organizzazione delle Milizie degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie sarà devoluta al 
 Comandante in Capo delle Forze di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore nelle 
 medesime, : dietro l'approvazione del Prestantissimo Senato, e di Sua Eccellenza il Lord 
 Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 L' Incarico generale di mantenere la tranquillità del Paese essendo immediatamente, 
 e direttamente attaccato allo Stabilimento Militare, 1' Alta Polizia degli Stati Uniti delle 
 Isole Jonie, sarà posta sotto 1' immediata direzione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto 
 Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, e del Comandante in 
 Capo delle Forze di SUA MAESTÀ. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Nessun uffiziale può essere v nominato nei Corpi delle Milizie delle Isole Jonie, che 
 non sia suddito nativo delle Isole stesse. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore destinerà degF Ispettori, e Sub-Ispettori 
 delle Milizie delle Isole Jonie, i quali saranno uffiziali Britannici, o Jonii. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Il Corpo delle Milizie in ciascuna Isola sarà posto sotto la direzione degli Ispettori, o 
 Sub-Ispettori delle medesime, nominati da SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO VIII. 
 Le Forze regolari di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, in ogni caso di 
 contese civili, saranno soggette alle Leggi del Paese, entro gli Stati Uniti dell Isole Jonie. 
 
APPENDIX. 309 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 Le Forze regolari del SOVRANO Protettore in questi Stati saranno, perciò che 
 riguarda la Giurisdizione Criminale soltanto soggette alla Legge Marziale di SUA 
 MAESTÀ. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Le Milizie di questi Stati sono per conseguenza soggette alle Leggi del Paese ; ma 
 quando saranno dovutamente organizzate, e poste in attività di servizio regolare, saranno 
 soggette alla Legge Marziale della Potenza Protettrice, e soggette ad essere giudicate a 
 tenore di questa sola per delitti Criminali. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Il numero regolare delle Truppe di SUA MAESTÀ, fissato per le Guarnigioni di 
 queste Isole, si considererà consistente in Tre Mila Uomini, ma potrà venire aumentato, 
 o diminuito, secondo che sarà stimato opportuno dal Comandante in Capo delle Forze di 
 SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Tutte le spese di quartieramenti per le stabilite Forze regolari di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore, e generalmente parlando, qualunque sorta di altre spese 
 militari straordinarie da farsi per questi Stati, verranno pagate dal Tesoro Generale de' 
 medesimi, per quanto riguarda soltanto i Tre Mila Uomini sunominati. 
 
 SEZIONE IH." 
 TESORERIA, E FINANZE. 
 
 ARTICOLO L 
 Alla direzione della Tesoreria Generale degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie vi sarà un 
 Tesoriere, e questo sarà suddito nativo Inglese, o Jonio, ed avrà il titolo di Tesoriere 
 
 Generale. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 La nomina e la destinazione del Tesoriere degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie è devo- 
 luta a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore, ed i Tesorieri Locali delle varie Isole dipenderanno direttamente dal 
 Tesoriere Generale suddetto. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Il Tesoriere Generale degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, sarà responsabile dell' intero 
 Incasso, e Dispendio dei detti Stati Uniti, e manderà un preciso stato mensuale del detto 
 Incasso e Dispendio al Prestantissimo Senato, e a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Com- 
 missionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
310 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 L'Anno Finanziale negli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie comincierà il primo giorno di 
 Febbrajo, e finirà 1' ultimo giorno di Gennajo; ed il Tesoriere Generale assoggetterà 
 all'Assemblea Legislativa, entro i tre primi giorni della Sua Riunione, un Quadro com- 
 pleto e preciso dell' intero Incasso e Dispendio del già decorso anno. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Il Tesoriere Generale non potrà esborsare dal Pubblico Tesoro la benché minima 
 somma, senza previa sanzione in iscritto del Prestantissimo Senato, e di Sua Eccellenza 
 il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, fuorché 
 pel pagamento della Lista Civile sanzionata dall'Assemblea Legislativa, come fu già 
 provveduto nel Capitolo 3. z0 Sezione 3. za Articolo 33. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 La Generale regola Costituzionale da osservarsi (benché sia possibile il non poter 
 starvi rigorosamente attaccato) nei casi di spese straordinarie nelle varie Isole, sarà 
 questa : ogn'Isola avrà diritto d'incontrare delle spese straordinarie in proporzione del 
 Surplus di Rendita da essa versato nella Tesoreria Generale, detratte che sieno le spese 
 della Lista Civile per l'Isola stessa; ma la somma di tali spese straordinarie verrà deter- 
 minata dal Prestantissimo Senato, e da Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di 
 SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, ed avuto riguardo alle opere di ristaura- 
 zioni, ed altri oggetti generali Militari. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Il Tesoriere Generale, nell'assoggettare i conti dell'annuo Dispendio all' Assemblea 
 Legislativa, li dividerà in due capi, cioè : ordinario, e straordinario ; e l'Assemblea Legis- 
 lativa avrà il potere di approvarli, o di disapprovarli, in quanto riguarda l'esattezza dei 
 conti per tal modo alla stessa presentati. 
 
 ARTICOLO VIII. 
 
 La riscossione della Rendita pubblica nelle varie Isole, sarà regolata in tutti i suoi 
 rami dal Prestantissimo Senato, coli' approvazione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto 
 Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, e tutte le Persone impiegate nella riscos- 
 sione delle dette Rendite, saranno approvate dai medesimi. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 11 Prestantissimo Senato, coll'approvazione parimente di Sua Eccellenza il Lord 
 Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, regolerà le forme 
 di amministrazione delle Rendite Pubbliche, e il maneggio delle medesime in questi Stati. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Qualunque aggiunta, alterazione, o modificazione da farsi al vigente sistema di Tasse, 
 
APPENDIX. 311 
 
 non si potrà fare altrimenti, che per un Bill presentato nelle dovute forme all'Assemblea 
 
 Legislativa. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Essendo della massima importanza, che le varie Tasse, e Dazj, nelle diverse Isole 
 vengano eguagliati, per quanto si rende compatibile colla differenza delle Locali circos- 
 tanze delle Isole stesse, e che vengano posti sopra un piede di simile proporzione; si 
 dichiara : ch'egli è della massima importanza di adottare delle misure Legislative sopra 
 
 questo proposito. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Essendo del pari oggetto di altissima importanza per ogni Stato l'eguaglianza di pesi 
 e di misure, e lo stabilimento di una nazionale moneta corrente, si prenderanno delle 
 misure anche sopra questo argomento, a tenore dell'articolo precedente. 
 
 SEZIONE IV. ta 
 
 DELLE RELAZIONI ESTERE. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 Stante che nell'ultima parte dell'Articolo 7.° del Trattato di Parigi è convenuto, che 
 nessuna persona, per parte di qualsiasi Potenza, sarà ammessa in questi Stati, la quale 
 posseda, o pretenda di possedere, alcun potere oltre di quelli che vengono definiti 
 nell'Articolo sopraddetto, viene qui dichiarato : che qualsiasi persona assumesse qualun- 
 que autorità, come Agente di una Potenza Estera, eccetto quanto viene come sopra ordi- 
 nato, potrà essere tradotta in giudizio innanzi al Supremo Consiglio di Giustizia, e andrà 
 soggetta, nel caso che risultasse colpevole, alle pene ordinate nei casi di alto tradimento 
 
 contro lo Stato. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 Verun nativo, o suddito degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, sarà considerato persona 
 
 competente a poter agire come Console, o Vice Console, di alcuna Potenza Estera negli 
 
 Stati medesimi. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 I Consoli Britannici in tutti gli Stati Esteri, senza eccezione, saranno considerati 
 avere il Carattere di Consoli, e di Vice Consoli degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, ed i 
 Sudditi delle stesse avranno diritto alla pienissima loro Protezione. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Qualunque richiesta necessaria da farsi da questi" Stati a qualunque Potenza Estera, 
 sarà trasmessa dal Prestantissimo Senato a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario 
 di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, il quale avanzerà la medesima al 
 Ministro del SOVRANO Protettore Residente nella Corte della detta Potenza, onde 
 sia dal medesimo presentata in dovuta forma alla Potenza suddetta. 
 
312 APPENDIX. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 L'approvazione della destinazione di tutti gli Agenti, o Consoli Esteri negli Stati 
 Uniti delle Isole Jonie, sarà fatta dal Prestantissimo Senato per mezzo di Sua Altezza il 
 Presidente del medesimo, col concorso di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario 
 del SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Colla mira di assicurare la massima Protezione al Commercio di questi Stati, tutti i 
 Bastimenti che navigheranno coperti della Bandiera Jonia, prima di partire dai Porti 
 degli Stati Jonii a' quali appartengono, dovranno essere muniti di un Passo firmato da 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore, e non sarà considerata legale la Navigazione di qualunque Naviglio che navi- 
 gasse senza tal Passo. Resta però riservato a SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protet- 
 tore di decidere, se oltre al detto Passo, sia necessario, che vengan pure muniti del 
 Passo dell'Ammiragliato della Grande Brettagna nel Mediterraneo. 
 
 SEZIONE V* 
 DELLA SANITÀ. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 Stante che lo Stato Protettore, e lo Stato Protetto hanno uguale diritto ed interesse 
 nel grande oggetto della preservazione della Salute Pubblica, viene qui dichiarato : che 
 la direzione della Sanità per tutti gli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie è devoluta a Sua Eccel- 
 lenza il Lord Alto Commissionario del SOVRANO Protettore, il quale regolerà, a 
 norma delle discipline Sanitarie, le relative contumacie da farsi in ogni caso, dandone le 
 dovute notizie; fisserà il numero degli Uffiziali da essere impiegati, e nominerà in 
 ogn'Isola il Capo dell'Uffizio di Sanità, che potrà essere Suddito Britannico, o Jonio ; 
 ma qualunque altra nomina su questo proposito, sarà soggetta all'approvazione del 
 Prestantissimo Senato ; e per quanto riguarda il numero di altri Agenti del detto uffizio, 
 ed il loro stipendio, ciò verrà preso in considerazione dall'Assemblea Legislativa, come 
 fu già esposto riguardo alla Lista Civile. 
 
 ARTICOLO II. 
 
 L'uffizio della Posta in ogn' Isola sarà d' ora innanzi considerato come parte inte- 
 grante dell' Uffizio di Sanità. 
 
 SEZIONE VI." 
 DELLA BANDIERA, E DEGLI STEMMI NAZIONALI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 La Bandiera Commerciale della Nazione degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie, nel 
 
APPENDIX. 313 
 
 modo che viene ordinato nel 7.° Articolo del Trattato di Parigi, sarà 1' antica Bandiera 
 di questi Stati coli' aggiunta dell' Unione Britannica da essere innestata nelF angolo 
 superiore presso l'asta, 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 La Bandiera Britannica verrà spiegata giornalmente in tutti i Forti degli Stati Uniti 
 delle Isole Jonie; ma nelle giornate di pubblica Festa ed esultanza, sarà spiegata una 
 Bandiera, che verrà espressamente fatta secondo il modello degli Stemmi dei detti Stati. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Le Armi, o gli Stemmi degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie consisteranno d' ora innanzi 
 nelle Armi Britanniche nel centro, circondate dalle Armi di ciascuna delle Isole compo- 
 nenti i detti Stati. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Lo Stemma di ciascuna delle Isole sarà formato dalle Armi proprie dell' Isola, e da 
 tale Emblema denotante la Protezione del SOVRANO Protettore, quale verrà giudi- 
 cato conveniente. 
 
 SEZIONE VII.™ 
 CLAUSULE GENERALI. 
 
 ARTICOLO I. 
 
 È riservato a Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il 
 SOVRANO Protettore, di richiamare per mezzo di un Messaggio 1' attenzione dell' 
 Assemblea Legislativa sopra qualunque soggetto o soggetti, che in appresso risultassero 
 essere stati ommessi, o trascurati, nella presente Carta Costituzionale ; ed al ricevimento 
 di tale Messaggio, l'Assemblea Legislativa s' intenderà riunita sotto questa Clausula, e 
 procederà tosto alla considerazione del soggetto o dei soggetti ad essa sottoposti da Sua 
 Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protet- 
 tore; ma in tali occasioni sempre, qualunque cosa che verrà deliberata dall' Assemblea 
 Legislativa dovrà ottenere la Ratificazione del SOVRANO Protettore, dopo di che 
 sarà considerata formante parte della Carta Costituzionale medesima. 
 
 ARTICOLO IL 
 
 Siccome vi potrebbero essere molti casi ai quali non si è particolarmente provveduto 
 nella presente Carta Costituzionale, in simili occasioni si avrà ricorso per analogia alla 
 Carta stessa ; ed i principii e le regole generali già esposte in un caso, si dovranno sempre 
 considerare applicabili in tutti i casi di tal natura, che ammettono simile applicazione, 
 
 S s 
 
314 APPENDIX. 
 
 quantunque un tal caso non venisse particolarmente specificato nella Carta Costituzionale 
 medesima. 
 
 ARTICOLO III. 
 
 Nei casi di qualunque transazione marittima, e nella riscossione dei Dazii, spetterà 
 alle Autorità competenti d'impiegare dei Sudditi Britannici, o Jonii. 
 
 ARTICOLO IV. 
 
 Vi sarà un Uffizio Generale di Stamperia negli Stati 'Uniti delle Isole Jonie, il quale 
 verrà stabilito nella Sede permanente del Governo stesso, e la Stampa sarà collocata sotto 
 l'immediata direzione del Prestantissimo Senato, e di Sua Eccellenza il Loi-d Alto 
 Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, e sotto l'immediata 
 sorveglianza del Segretario del Prestantissimo Senato pel Dipartimento Generale: né 
 alcun' altra Stamperia potrà essere stabilita in questi Stati, se non se previa licenza del 
 Prestantissimo Senato, e la successiva sanzione del Lord Alto Commissionario del 
 SOVRANO Protettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO V. 
 
 Una Legge speciale stabilirà i termini, il tempo, ed il modo per la naturalizzazione 
 dei Sudditi Esteri in questi Stati; ma i Sudditi di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore, avranno in ogni caso il diritto di naturalizzazione alla metà del tempo 
 richiesto per quelli di qualunque altra Potenza Estera; ed un Suddito della Potenza 
 Protettrice, o di qualunque altra Potenza Estera, può essere ad un tratto naturalizzato 
 per mezzo di un apposito Bill, senza riguardo a verun periodo fisso di residenza in questi 
 Stati, ciocché verrà spiegato nella medesima Legge. 
 
 ARTICOLO VI. 
 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO 
 Protettore, indipendentemente a tutti gli altri poteri di già al medesimo devoluti, avrà 
 il diritto d'intervenire nelle Sedute dell'Assemblea Legislativa, o in quelle del Senato, 
 qualora lo riputasse conveniente. 
 
 ARTICOLO VII. 
 
 Malgrado ai provvedimenti contenuti nella prima Sezione di questo Capitolo, relati- 
 vamente al modo generale di procedere nei casi di prevaricazione di Uffizio, il potere di 
 sospendere e di dimettere i Sudditi Britannici dai loro posti, é esclusivamente riservato a 
 Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Pro- 
 tettore. 
 
 ARTICOLO Vili. 
 
 I Popoli Jonii avranno pienissimo diritto, sì in corpo, che individualmente, di avan- 
 zare delle Rappresentazioni e delle Petizioni al SOVRANO Protettore. Le Petizioni 
 d'individui saranno indirizzate al Segretario di Stato di SUA MAESTÀ; quelle di 
 Corpi dei pubblici Funzionarj a SUA MAESTÀ direttamente per mezzo del Suo 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 315 
 
 Segretario di Stato. Simili Rappresentazioni, o Petizioni di qualsiasi natura, si dovranno 
 sempre trasmettere per mezzo di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissioìiario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, a cui si dovrà dare una copia esatta nell'epoca 
 che si faranno tali Rappresentazioni, Petizioni, o Memorie. 
 
 ARTICOLO IX. 
 
 In caso di morte, di necessaria assenza, o d'indisposizione di Sua Eccellenza il Lord 
 Alto Commissionario di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore, la Persona, o le 
 Persone, che verranno incaricate da Esso con sua autorizzazione firmata di suo pugno, e 
 corroborata colle Armi del suo Suggello, eserciteranno l'Alto Incarico affidatogli dal 
 SUO SOVRANO, e verranno considerate pro tempore rivestite di tutta l'autorità, e 
 poteri della stessa Persona di Sua Eccellenza il Lord Alto Commissionario di SUA 
 MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore di questi Stati. 
 
 ARTICOLO X. 
 
 Essendo che i Segretarj, ed altri Ministri si consideravano in certo modo per lo pas- 
 sato, avere qualche responsabilità di Uffizio, e potevano nelle varie loro situazioni agire, 
 o rifiutarvisi, secondo che stimavano opportuno di farlo, perciò s'intenderà chiaramente : 
 che cessa ogni responsabilità riguardo a qualsiasi Ministro, e che ogni Ministro, nell' 
 adempiere ai doveri del suo uffizio, sarà tenuto di eseguire gli ordini del suo Superiore, o 
 Superiori, presso i quali rimane tutta la responsabilità di Uffizio. 
 
 ARTICOLO XI. 
 
 Si dovrà chiaramente intendere, che nei casi in cui vengono occupati posti vacanti 
 
 siasi a motivo di morte, o di altre ragioni, la persona, o le persone che li occupassero, 
 
 non resteranno nei medesimi, che pel solo tempo che doveano restarvi le Persone che li 
 
 lasciarono vacanti. 
 
 ARTICOLO XII. 
 
 Siccome le basi solamente della nuova Costituzione di questi Stati sono state stabilite 
 nella presente Carta Costituzionale ; e rendendosi necessario prima di tutto di non per- 
 dere alcun tempo nel preparare le Leggi opportune per dare effetto alla Costituzione 
 stessa; si dichiara: che 1' attuale Assemblea Legislativa all'epoca della sua Riunione, 
 dacché sarà conosciuta la Volontà di SUA MAESTÀ il SOVRANO Protettore 
 riguardo alla Ratificazione della detta Carta Costituzionale, sarà considerata come il 
 primo Parlamento degli Stati Uniti delle Isole Jonie ; e che la Riunione della medesima, 
 in luogo di cominciare nel primo giorno di Marzo, come viene ordinato dalla Carta 
 stessa, comincierà i suoi lavori tre giorni dopo la Promulgazione della Ratificazione della 
 suddetta Carta; e la seconda Riunione comincierà ne) primo giorno di Marzo 1819, 
 come viene prescritto della Carta Costituzionale. 
 
 B. Theotoky, Presidente. Alessandro Marieti. 
 
 Cav. Calichiopulo. Niccolò Anino Anas." 
 
 Ss2 
 
316 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Vettor Cariai. 
 
 D. Foscardi. 
 
 D. Balzo. 
 
 Felice Zambelly. 
 
 Basilio Zavò. 
 
 Valerio Stai. 
 
 Giovanni Morichi. 
 
 Stefano Palazzuol Scor dilli. 
 
 Anastasio Battali. 
 
 Anastasio Cassimati. 
 
 Giacomo Calichiopulo Manzaro. 
 
 Spiridion Giallinà q. m Anastasio. 
 
 An." Tom. Lefcochilo CavS 
 
 Niccolò Agorastò. 
 
 Marino Veja. 
 
 Niccolò D. r Dallaporta. 
 
 Spiridioìi Metaxd Listo. 
 
 Pietro Coidan. 
 
 (Siegue l'Atto di Ratificazione.) 
 
 Sebastiaìio D. r Schiadan. 
 Daniel Coidan. 
 Paolo Gentilini. 
 Spiridione Focca Gio: 
 Demetrio Aivanitachi. 
 Dionisio Genimatà. 
 Giulio Domeneghini. 
 Francesco Muzzan. 
 Michiele Mercati. 
 Giovanni Melissinò. 
 Marino T. Stefano. 
 Angelo Condari. 
 Niccolò Cavadd. 
 Pietro Petrizzopulo. 
 Gio: Psomd. 
 Niccolò Vrettò. 
 Giorgio Massello. 
 Stefano Fanarioti. 
 
 Richard Plasket, Segretario. 
 Dem.° Co: Valsamaclii, Segretario. 
 
APPENDIX. 317 
 
 3i 01 avendo veduto e considerato 1' anzidetta Carta Costituzionale, Abbiamo, in Nome 
 e da Parte di SUA MAESTÀ dovutamente ratificato la medesima, in tutti, ed in ciascuno 
 de'suoi Articoli, e Clausule, come per mezzo delle Presenti La ratifichiamo per SUA 
 MAESTÀ, Eredi, e Successori Suoi. Per maggiore testimonianza e validità della qual 
 cosa, Abbiamo sottoscritto le Presenti, in Nome e da Parte di SUA MAESTÀ, ed 
 Abbiamo fatto che vi venga apposto il Gran Suggello del Regno Unito della Grande 
 Brettagna e dell' Irlanda. 
 
 Data dal Nostro Padiglione Reale a Brighton il Ventesimo Sesto giorno di Agosto 
 dell'anno di NOSTRO SIGNORE Mille Ottocento e Diciassette, e nel Cinquantesimo 
 Settimo Anno del Regno di SUA MAESTÀ. 
 
 In Nome e da Parte di SUA MAESTÀ, 
 L. S. 
 
 GIORGIO P. R. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Accident at sea 
 
 Acro-corinth, ridge of 
 
 Acro-corinth 
 
 Acropolis, or Astu, of Athens 
 
 ascent to 
 
 modern state of 
 
 Actium, battle near 
 Adriatic Gulf, descending the 
 Adrian's Arch, at Athens 
 Agora of Athens 
 Albanians 
 
 their dress 
 
 their manners 
 
 their language and dress 
 
 their houses 
 
 Alpheus 
 
 borders of 
 
 ford of 
 
 Ambassadors' houses at Pera 
 Amyclae 
 
 Anathema, pass of - - 
 
 Anchesmus, Mount of 
 Ancient Grove, description of 
 Anecdote of disinterestedness 
 Andritzena - 
 
 Antilalla - 
 
 Antiquaries, their various opinions re- 
 specting the ruins of Athens 
 Apollo, Temple of - 
 Archipelago, entrance of 
 Areopagus at Athens 
 Argos, road to 
 
 situation of the town 
 
 potteries, tiles 
 
 coins, antiquities, inhabitants - 
 
 Sunday, fair, food of the poor - 
 
 • citadel - 
 
 Ariosto, anecdote of - 
 
 Armenians - 
 
 Asia and Europe, coasts of 
 Asopus - 
 
 Athens, journey to - 
 
 peasants of - - 
 
 entrance of the town 
 
 sun-rise 
 
 Consul and his family 
 
 Page 
 2 
 158 
 154 
 100 
 101 
 102 
 228 
 12 
 95 
 90 
 116 
 ib. 
 117 
 159 
 ib. 
 190 
 210 
 212 
 61 
 180 
 208 
 118 
 214 
 230 
 209 
 213 
 
 97 
 180 
 
 16 
 
 92 
 138 
 139 
 138 
 140 
 
 ib. 
 
 141 
 
 8 
 
 74 
 
 51 
 151 
 
 83 
 
 84 
 
 ib. 
 
 83 
 
 86 
 
 Athens, French Consul at 
 vicinity of 
 
 horses of - 
 
 return to - 
 
 departure from 
 
 Athos 
 
 Atreus' Treasuries 
 Augustus 
 
 Bacchus, Theatre of, at Athens 
 
 Barletta 
 
 Bassa; 
 
 description of the temple 
 
 Batteries of the Turks 
 
 Bazars of Constantinople 
 
 Bounàr-Bàshi 
 
 British Vice-Consul at Zea 
 
 his family and establishment 
 
 Brindisi 
 Buonaparte 
 
 Callipatiras 
 
 Calms in the Archipelago 
 
 Canoes used on the Alpheus 
 
 Caprification 
 
 Capuchin Monastery at Athens 
 
 Caryatides at Athens, their invention 
 
 Cattle, fed on bushes in Greece 
 
 Caution to travellers 
 
 Cephalonia 
 
 Character of the Turks 
 
 Cleonae 
 
 to Nemea, road from 
 
 Coffee-house at Mystra 
 
 Comparison between Grecian and Gothic 
 
 architecture 
 Constantinople 
 
 appearance of the town 
 
 • cannon near 
 
 • seraglio of 
 town of 
 
 public schools of 
 private houses of 
 fires in 
 baths of 
 antiquities of 
 
 Page 
 
 - 87 
 
 - 118 
 
 - 118 
 
 - 127 
 
 - 128 
 
 - 43 
 
 - 146 
 
 - 171 
 
 - 94 
 
 - 258 
 
 - 205 
 
 - 206 
 
 - 53 
 
 - 66 
 
 - 49 
 
 - 22 
 ib. 
 
 - 257 
 
 - 85 
 
 - 212 
 
 - 15 
 
 - 211 
 
 - 31 
 
 - 95 
 
 - 108 
 
 - 20 
 
 - 163 
 14 
 
 - 73 
 151, 158 
 
 - 160 
 179 
 
 105 
 58 
 59 
 60 
 ib. 
 64 
 66 
 67 
 68 
 ib. 
 70 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Constantinople, society of 
 ■ smoking 
 
 coffee-houses of 
 
 food 
 
 departure from 
 
 Convent of Mount Pentelicus 
 
 quarries 
 honey 
 
 Corfu 
 
 Corfu (Corcyra) 
 
 passage to 
 
 entrance into 
 
 appearance of the town 
 
 neighbourhood of the town 
 
 improvements 
 
 language 
 
 Corinth 
 
 ports of 
 
 Corn, threshing of 
 
 Coucurra 
 
 Country near Tegea 
 
 Courban beiram 
 
 Cerigo 
 
 Cupolas, their invention 
 Custom-house Officers at Venice 
 
 71 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 72 
 
 78 
 
 121 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 14 
 
 228 
 
 ib. 
 
 230 
 
 ib. 
 
 231 
 
 232 
 
 233 
 
 153 
 
 156 
 
 39 
 
 217 
 
 170 
 
 221 
 
 15 
 
 64 
 
 1 
 
 Dardanelles, Asiatic - - 55 
 
 Dardanelles - - - 78 
 
 Daoula ... iq^ 
 
 Death of an English traveller - 91 
 
 Demosthenes, lanthorn of, at Athens - 94 
 
 Derveni - - - 150 
 
 Dervichs - - 89, 151 
 
 Description of the ancient town of Tegea 170 
 
 Disdar-Aga at Athens - - 109 
 
 Dogs of Taygetus - - 177 
 
 Egina 
 Eleusis 
 
 ruins at 
 
 present state of 
 
 Daphne 
 
 ■ — Sacred Way* 
 
 Elis 
 
 Emperor of Austria 
 
 English sailors 
 
 travellers 
 
 tourists 
 
 Epidaurus, mills at 
 Erasinus, fount of 
 Etesian gales 
 Eurotas 
 
 road along 
 
 Ezan ... 
 
 Expenses of visiting the Acropolis 
 
 Falconer's Shipwreck 
 Fig-trees, Indian 
 
 129 
 123 
 124 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 219 
 
 85 
 
 79 
 110 
 143 
 130 
 163 
 
 16 
 181 
 184 
 
 65 
 109 
 
 81 
 193 
 
 Firman, effects of 
 
 Flying fish 
 
 Fortress of the town of Tripolitzà 
 
 Franks 
 
 Galata and Pera, interior of 
 
 Gallipoli 
 
 Greeks 
 
 Greek wedding 
 
 convent, description of 
 
 service 
 
 curse 
 
 school 
 
 mode of teaching 
 
 Hailing at sea, different modes of 
 Hellespont, entrance to the 
 Hermit in one of the islands of the Archi- 
 pelago ... 
 Hiero, king of Syracuse 
 House of the Bey 
 Hyuiettus, view from the summit of 
 ■ Mount of - 
 
 Lyceum 
 
 Ilissus Stadium 
 
 Illyrian seamen 
 
 Inachus, the ... 
 
 Inhabitants of the mountains 
 
 Inns of Pera ... 
 
 Inscription - 
 
 Invasion of the Morea 
 
 Ionian Sea, entrance of - - 
 
 constitution 
 
 component parts of the government 
 
 senate ... 
 
 the mode of its election 
 
 its powers 
 
 legislative assembly 
 
 its election 
 
 ■ ■ its power 
 
 lonians, opinion of - 
 
 Isthmus, descent to the 
 
 view of 
 
 Ithaca ... 
 
 Ithome, Mount - 
 
 Janissaries, their pay 
 
 Jevisà, a village near Marathon 
 
 Jews - 
 
 Journey to the Three Columns 
 
 Juno, Temple of 
 
 Jupiter Olympus, Temple of, at Atheus 
 
 Kalamata ... 193 
 
 Ketchbashi, ascent at - 126 
 
 Khan - - - - 191 
 
 Khan of Kourtesa - - 150 
 
 204 
 14 
 
 167 
 76 
 
 60 
 
 56 
 
 74 
 
 98 
 
 194 
 
 187 
 
 208 
 
 226 
 
 ib. 
 
 13 
 
 51 
 
 16 
 213 
 156 
 127 
 125 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 13 
 143 
 174 
 
 62 
 179 
 175 
 
 13 
 244 
 
 ib. 
 245 
 
 ib. 
 
 246 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 247 
 248 
 151 
 152 
 223 
 196 
 
 135 
 119 
 
 76 
 158 
 148 
 
 95 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Khan, Grecian - 
 
 Kislar Aga ... 
 
 Kravata (Mycena;), road to - 
 
 -ruins, change in the face of the 
 
 land 
 
 Kravata 
 Kriavrio 
 
 -masonry 
 -town, history of 
 -citadel, walls of 
 -corn, preservation of 
 -Lion's Gate 
 
 Laconia, vale of 
 
 Lalla, government of - - 
 
 Lampsacus - 
 
 Langana - 
 
 Languages spoken at Constantinople 
 
 Larissa, view from 
 
 theatre - 
 
 monuments, destruction of 
 
 Lazaretto of Barletta 
 
 Lecce ... 
 
 Lema, site of ... 
 
 Lesbos ... 
 
 Leucas, origin of the name 
 
 Le Chevalier, discovery of 
 
 Liberty of the press not allowed in the 
 
 Ionian Islands 
 Literature - 
 
 Londari, road to 
 
 arbutes and wild pears 
 
 Londari - 
 
 Lord Sligo ... 
 
 Lord Elgin ... 
 
 Lover's Leap ... 
 
 Lover's Leap ... 
 
 Lycaeus, Mount ... 
 
 ancient description of 
 
 ascent, beautiful view 
 
 scenery, descent 
 
 Lygurio ... 
 
 vintage ... 
 
 mode of making wine 
 
 ancient precincts, description of 
 
 snakes ... 
 
 road from, to Nauplia 
 
 Maida ... 
 
 Mainiotes, rout of - 
 
 Mainiotes, probably of Sclavonian origin 
 Mainiote mountaineers, description of 
 Maina, government of - 
 
 Marathon ... 
 
 plain of - - 
 
 Markyplaia ... 
 
 Marmora, sea of 
 
 Mastic trees ... 
 
 191 
 
 89 
 
 143 
 
 144 
 ib. 
 145 
 147 
 146 
 ib. 
 173 
 172 
 
 181 
 210 
 
 56 
 209 
 
 62 
 141 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 258 
 256 
 184 
 
 38 
 227 
 
 45 
 
 249 
 194 
 184 
 185 
 
 ib. 
 145 
 109 
 
 14 
 224 
 201 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 130 
 
 ib. 
 131 
 132 
 134 
 136 
 
 52 
 176 
 
 180 
 182 
 181 
 118 
 118 
 190 
 
 56 
 
 27 
 
 Mavromati, village of 
 
 fountain 
 
 Medicine 
 
 Megalopolis 
 
 Merchant ships of England 
 
 Meso Chora and Kata Chora 
 
 Messene, ruins of - 
 
 Messinia, territory of 
 
 vale of - 
 
 Mezzomorto . - 
 
 Minerva Polias, Temple of, at Athens 
 
 Miraka 
 
 Miraka (Olympia) 
 
 Mode of reckoning time 
 
 Mode of travelling 
 
 Modem Athenians 
 
 their education 
 
 their features 
 
 their conversation 
 
 their mode of shaving 
 
 their superstition 
 
 their dress 
 
 the females 
 
 their society 
 
 Modern Greek extracts 
 
 Monastery 
 
 Morea, invasion of the 
 
 Morlacs, description of 
 
 Mosques 
 
 Muezzim 
 
 Museum at Athens 
 
 Mycenae 
 
 Mystra, the castle of 
 
 ■ inhabitants, cruel treatment of 
 
 ■ town, government of 
 
 church 
 
 tall cypress 
 
 mulberry trees 
 
 want of physicians 
 
 town, description of 
 
 road to 
 
 Tt 
 
 Mystra and Laconia, first view of 
 
 Namaz, or prayer 
 Napoleon - 
 
 National character of the Ionians 
 Nauplia, state of - - 
 
 citadel ... 
 
 town, situation of 
 
 Navy of the Turks, observations on 
 Neptune and Erectheus, Temple of, at 
 Athens ... 
 
 Odeum at Athens 
 
 Olives, harvest of - - 
 
 Olympia, remains of - 
 
 departure from 
 
 Otranto, neighbourhood of - 
 
 196 
 ib. 
 152 
 185 
 79 
 179 
 196 
 191 
 
 ib. 
 36 
 108 
 113 
 208 
 165 
 162 
 111 
 116 
 111 
 114 
 111 
 114 
 111 
 112 
 116 
 233 
 194 
 174 
 
 12 
 
 66 
 
 65 
 
 93 
 143 
 175 
 176 
 
 ib. 
 177 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 174 
 
 ib. 
 
 65 
 
 172 
 247 
 137 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 
 30 
 
 108 
 
 97 
 225 
 213 
 217 
 255 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Otranto, departure from 
 Ovens 
 
 - 256 
 
 - 157 
 
 Palamedi ... 
 
 Pandrosea, Portico of, at Athens 
 Parga ... 
 
 Paris, treaty of 
 Parthenon at Athens 
 
 state of the ruins of the temple 
 
 Patrasso ... 
 
 road to 
 
 ■ ancient town 
 (Patrae) 
 
 Pausanias's description of Marathon 
 
 account of the Acropolis of 
 
 Athens 
 
 defence of Augustus 
 description of Messene 
 
 Pavlitza (Phigalia) 
 
 romantic situation of 
 
 robbers 
 
 Turks 
 
 romantic situation of 
 
 inhospitality 
 
 inhabitants, absurd idea of 
 
 peasants 
 
 Paxos 
 Peneus 
 
 Phengetes at Athens / 
 
 Phtelia 
 
 Pliilopappos, monument of, at Athens 
 
 Piraeus, harbour of 
 
 embarkation 
 
 landing at 
 
 description of the country 
 
 convent of St. Spiridion 
 
 monk 
 
 Pirates 
 
 Pirenian chambers 
 
 Plague, observations on the 
 
 at Constantinople 
 
 Plough of the Italians and Greeks 
 Pnyx at Athens 
 
 Po'ikile 
 
 Pola, monuments at 
 
 ancient and modern state of 
 
 language spoken at 
 
 isles adjoining 
 
 departure for 
 
 arrival at 
 
 Pollaco 
 
 Port of Constantinople 
 
 Portali 
 
 Preparations for war 
 
 Presents made to the pasha 
 
 Prevesa 
 
 Princess of Wales 
 
 Propylea at Athens 
 
 13G 
 108 
 228 
 243 
 105 
 107 
 220 
 ib. 
 221 
 217 
 119 
 
 101 
 171 
 196 
 200 
 204 
 200 
 
 ib. 
 201 
 204 
 206 
 202 
 
 14 
 219 
 105 
 210 
 
 93 
 128 
 
 ib. 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 ib. 
 
 82 
 
 16 
 
 155 
 
 7 
 
 62 
 256 
 
 93 
 
 89 
 8 
 9 
 
 ib. 
 
 ib. 
 7 
 
 ib. 
 
 70 
 
 60 
 179 
 167 
 168 
 229 
 
 85 
 104 
 
 Pyrgo 
 
 Quarantine ... 
 
 Religious ceremonies 
 
 Rhodope ... 
 
 Rich Aga - 
 
 Road from Mycenae to Corinth 
 
 Robbers in Italy 
 
 Romaic architecture 
 
 Rout of the Mainiotes 
 
 Ruins . . - 
 
 Santa Maura (Leucadia) 
 
 arrival at 
 
 town, quarantine 
 
 fort - 
 
 ancient city 
 
 canal 
 
 Saronic Gulf - 
 
 Scamander, its warm springs 
 Scinano, journey to - 
 
 miserable lodging at 
 
 stupidity of the inhabitants 
 
 women, curious custom of 
 
 departure from 
 
 Scio (Chios) arrival at » 
 
 description of the country 
 
 productions and exports 
 
 literature cultivated in 
 
 antiquities of <• 
 
 food of the inhabitants of 
 
 historical sketch of - 
 
 Sclavochorio . - - 
 
 Scala tou Bey 
 
 Sestos - - - 
 
 Silk, the invention of • 
 
 Simonides - 
 
 Society of «DIAOMOYSON 
 
 Soldiers of the Turks 
 
 Soleiman, janissary to the Princess of 
 
 Wales 
 Solymaneh . . - 
 
 Sparta ... 
 
 ancient city of - - 
 
 ruins - - - 
 
 theatre - 
 
 peasants 
 
 harvest . - - 
 
 St. Minas, the monastery of 
 
 St. Paul 
 
 St. Stephens . . - 
 
 St. Sophia » - 
 
 Stimboli, origin of the name 
 
 Storm in the Propontis 
 
 Strophades rocks 
 
 Strophades . . - 
 
 Summer's day in Greece 
 
 219 
 
 85 
 
 157 
 57 
 192 
 150 
 256 
 177 
 175 
 171 
 
 2-23 
 ib. 
 
 224 
 
 225 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 129 
 48 
 
 186 
 ib. 
 
 188 
 ib. 
 
 189 
 25 
 ib. 
 28 
 ib. 
 29 
 31 
 32 
 
 180 
 
 165 
 54 
 19 
 23 
 
 116 
 51 
 
 119 
 40 
 
 183 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 
 184 
 ib. 
 28 
 
 154 
 57 
 64 
 63 
 56 
 14 
 
 211 
 
 149 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Sunium - - - 81 
 
 Tegea, plain of 166 
 
 Teke - - - 89 
 
 Teleclus, assassination of - 193 
 
 Temple of the Eight Winds - 88 
 
 Tenedos - - -42 
 
 Theatre, ruins of, at .Lygurio - 133 
 
 Theseus, Temple of, at Athens - 91 
 Thrasyllus, Choragic monuments of, at 
 
 Athens - - - 97 
 
 Trieste, arrival at - - 3 
 
 description of - - ib. 
 
 historical sketch of - ib. 
 
 — manners of the inhabitants of - 4 
 
 price of provisions at - 5 
 
 — — — neighbourhood of 6 
 
 health-office at . 3 
 
 embarkation at - - 10 
 
 ' storm in the port of - ib. 
 
 Tripolitzà, arrival at - 166 
 
 town of - - 167 
 
 road to - - 164 
 
 Troas - - - - 40 
 
 its ruins, description of - 39 
 
 inhabitants of - - ib. 
 
 Troy, opinion of the ancients on the site of 44 
 
 scenery described - 46 
 
 landing on the shore of - ib. 
 
 shore, description of - ib. 
 
 Tumulus ... 181 
 
 Turkish church-yard - 26 
 
 frigate - - 29 
 
 games, at Athens - 96 
 
 Turks, their cruelty at the siege of Otranto , 255 
 
 Turks - - - 172 
 
 Turkish wedding - . 178 
 
 villages - - 210 
 
 Tweddell, his grave at Athens - 92 
 
 Tyrinthus, galleries of - 138 
 
 Tyrinthus and Nauplia 
 
 University of Ithaca 
 Uva passa, cultivation of 
 
 Vaivode, derivation of the word 
 
 Veli pasha of Morea 
 
 Venice, departure from 
 
 Villagers, attack of 
 
 Vine and fig, cultivation of 
 
 Vintage 
 
 Visit to the pasha 
 
 Vlachi 
 
 Vourkano 
 
 . return to 
 
 Vrana 
 
 marsh 
 
 tumuli 
 
 Washing 
 
 Well 
 
 Wind, phenomenon of the 
 
 Winkelman, death of 
 
 Zante 
 
 Zea (Ceos) arrival at - 
 
 first view of the port of 
 
 description of 
 
 the town of 
 
 the churches of 
 
 dress of the islanders of 
 
 their manners 
 
 ■ government of the island 
 
 price of provisions at 
 
 departure from 
 
 consuls at 
 
 return to - 
 
 robbery at - - 
 
 • behaviour of the consul of 
 
 hospitality of the inhabitants 
 
 135 
 
 233 
 
 220 
 
 90 
 
 167 
 
 1 
 
 218 
 
 31 
 219 
 169 
 201 
 194 
 196 
 120 
 
 ib. 
 120 
 
 174 
 
 171 
 
 .225 
 
 5 
 
 14 
 18 
 ib. 
 19 
 19 
 21 
 ib. 
 ib. 
 23 
 ib. 
 24 
 18 
 80 
 ib. 
 79 
 80 
 
 THE END. 
 
 Oxford, printed by Munday and Slatter. 
 


 -tEOETTY CtNTER