(TRADE MARK). A TRANSPARENT CEMENT * OP INFINITE UTILITY FOB BROKEN ARTIC LES. Its Adhesiveness and Tenacity are Truly Extraordinary. “CLEAR AS CRYSTAL,” “STRONGER THAN GLASS” “TOUGH AS LEATHER” Unites Wood, Giass, China, and Earthenware, Bone, Ivory,' Leather, Papier-mache, Fossils, Shells, Minerals, Stone, Plaster Models, Statuary, Picture Frames, &c. PRICES : 6cL, Is., and 2s. Postage Id. SOLD EVERYWHERE. PRIZE MEDAL, LEEDS, J868. SILVER MEDAL, LONDON, 1870, SOLE PROPRIETORS AND MANUFACTURERS : KflY BROTHERS LID., ST06KP0RT. % S Q%3 K TO F RIT WORK ERS. THE GREAT CENTURY CLOCK DESIGN GIVEN A WA Y. I THE GREAT CENTURY CLOCK DESIGN. Size 48in. by 22in„ {May be cut with ordinary hand-saiv). pRETWORKERS may now obtain our New Illustrated Catalogue of Designs, Tools, and all materials for Fretwork, Wood- Carving, Bent Iron Work, &c., price 6d. This is by far the largest and most complete Fretwork Catalogue ever published. No fewer than 48 pages have been added since last year, and the list now contains 120 PAGES, WITH MANY HUNDREDS OF ILLUSTRATIONS Ore of the special features of our New Catalogue is the complete illustrated list of the renowned HOBBIES DESIGNS, including the handsome Special Designs The cost of preparing this Catalogue has been enormous, and each will have to be sent by Parcels Post at a cost of 3d. We ate, therefore, obliged to make a charge of 6d. per copy for the Catalogue, a sum which, of course, does not pay the mere cost of printing and postage, leaving altogether out of account the enormous preliminary expense in preparing Illustrations, &c. We. how- ever, give with each Catalogue a Coupon, entitling Customers to a rebate of 6d. on any ordei for 10s. worth of Goods. We also send as A Free Present with each Catalogue an exceptionally line Fretwork Design (published at Is.) of THE GREAT CENTURY CLOCK, of which an Illustration is given. This Design is printed on two Large Sheets, each 40in. by 2-5in., full instructions being supplied. Send at once Sixpence for Catalogue and Presenta- tion Design. o — j . — HOBBIES LIMITED, DEREHAM, NORFOLK. , CROSS LEY'S GAS ENGINES. Can be Supplied on the Deferred Payments System . The annexed Illustration represents our New Pattern 8 man, i horse, and 1 horse power nominal Engines, capable of working up to 1£ horse, 2 horse, and 3 horse respectively actual. The power has been greatly increased, and the gas consumption reduced. The materials and work- manship throughout are of the best possible description, the crank shafts and connecting rods being cut out of solid steel forgings, turned and polished, flywheel and pulley turned* Patent highly sensitive Governor, regulating gas consumption in proportion to work done. New porcelain indestructible ignition tube. Loose cylinder liner and pistons of hard metal. The Engines are thoroughly tested before leaving the works. They can be started in a few Minutes 9 and left running without attention for Hours * CROSSLEY BROS., Ltd., Otto Gas Engine Works, OPENSHAW, MANCHESTER. FRETWORK & MARQUETRY. WORK-BENCH AND TOOL-CABINET. Closed easy, with small Lock and Key. Fitted complete with our famous Tools in Wainscot Oak, polished, all of the best workman- ship; and assortment of Fine Nails, Pins, Brass Screws, Fittings. £19 2s. Od. TOOLS. AWARDS for Excellency TOOLS. Bronze Medal 1884. Gold Medal 1890. ALL TOOLS FIRST QUALITY AND FULL SIZE FOR PRACTICAL WORKMEN. TOOL CHESTS, fitted complete with our Famous Tools, from 7s. to £3 7s. Od. We hold the most Complete Stock of Hardware and Tools in this country. Our Famous Catalogue of Tools Is the largest and most complete, contains Hints and Instruc= tions for Wood Carving and Marquetrie Work. SEND FOR LIST. MELHUISH, SONS «& CO., 84, 85, 87, FETTER LANE, LONDON, E.C. FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY: A PRACTICAL MANUAL OF INSTRUCTIONS IN THE ART OF FRET-CUTTING AND MARQUETRY WORK. BY D. DENNING. Author of “ Polishes and Stains for Woods,” &C. ILLUSTRATED. LONDON : L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. LONDON : L. UPCOTT GILL, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, DRURY LANE, W.C. PREFACE. In the ever-growing attention which is being paid to the cultivation of mechanical and artistic work as a hobby, it seems strange that Marquetry or Inlaying should have received such scant attention. It is, perhaps, because the methods adopted are so little known that this is the case. Fretwork is in itself rather too apt to be considered as a too trivial pursuit to be regarded seriously ; but there is no reason why such should be so. Much beautiful decoration can be produced by it alone, while the more artistic and valuable Marquetry cannot be done till proficiency in simple Fretwork has been attained. The endeavour in the following pages has been to give instructions which will enable the learner to dispense with ocular and oral demonstration, and it is not too much to say that careful attention to the directions will enable any one to acquire the necessary theoretical knowledge. Practical proficiency can, however, only be acquired by experience. May 30, 1895. FRETWORK, CARVING, INLAYING, PAINTING, POKER, AND Art Metal Work Designs & Materials. LISTS FREE. Catalogues Nos. 59, 60, 61, and 62, with 2,850 Illustrations, 6d. HENRY ZILLES & CO., IMPORTERS , 19 k 21, WILSON ST., FINSBURY, LONDON, E.C. Woodcarving for Amateurs. Full Instructions for producing all the different varieties of Carvings SECOND EDITION. Edition by D. Denning. In paper, price Is., by post Is. 2d. Workshop Makeshifts. Being a Collection of Practical Hints and Suggestions for the use of Amateur Workers in Wood and Metal. By H. J. S. Cassall. Fully Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6 d., by post 2s. 9 d. Toymaking for Amateurs. Being Instructions for the Home Construction of Simple Wooden Toys, and of others that are Moved or Driven by Weights, Clockwork, Steam, Electricity, &c. Illustrated. By Jas. Lukin, B.A. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6 d. , by post 2s. 10 d. Turning for Amateurs. Being Descriptions of the Lathe and its Attachments and Tools, with Minute Instructions for their Effective Use on Wood, Metal, Ivory, and other Materials. Second Edition, Revised and Enlarged. By James Lukin, B.A. Illustrated with 144 Engravings. In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6 d., by post 2s 9 d. Cane Basket Work. A Practical Manual on Weaving Useful and Fancy Baskets. By Annie Firth. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price Is. td. by post Is. 2d. LONDON : L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE. I. — Introductory 1 II. — Necessary Tools . 4 III. — Useful Tools and Appliances - - - - 15 IV. — Machines for Fretcutters - 22 V. — Home-made Tools and Appliances - 31 VI. — Materials ------- 39 VII. — Exercises in Sawing with the Hand-frame and the Machine 50 VIII.— Advanced Exercises for Sawing and Machine Work - - - 61 IX. — Cutting Angles and Various Outlines - - 66 X. — Designs for Fretwork, and How to Use Them 73 XI. — Making up Fretwork Articles - - - 87 XII. — Working in Metals and Xylonite - - - 100 XIII. — Polishing, Staining, and Bleaching - - 104 XIV. — Inlaying and Marquetry 112 XV. — Plain Inlaying 115 XVI. — Easy Inlaying with Several Materials - 123 XVII. — Marquetry Inlaying ----- 127 XVIII. — Making up Inlays and Marquetry - - - 133 XIX. — Shading Inlays, Making and Laying Stringings 140 XX. — The Marquetry-cutters’ Donkey : How to Make, and How to Use It 149 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. CHAPTER I. Introductory. T has been said that “ happy is the man who has a hobby,” "j and we feel almost tempted to add “ especially if it is a mechanical one.” At one time, and that not so very long ago, the man who chose a handicraft as a pastime would have been looked on as an eccentric individual. Now he can indulge his mechanical tastes to his heart’s content without exciting more comment than if he applied himself to what are somewhat invidi- ously called the fine arts. To class fretwork among these may seem rank heresy to some of those who regard fine art as of the most limited application. But is not fretwork entitled to be considered as such, a minor one if you like, but still decidedly an art ? Whether the result is artistic or otherwise depends on circumstances. If there are any readers who object to fretworking being considered as a fine art, they may be reminded that marquetry inlays are but the results of the skilful application of the fretsaw. Those who have not been accustomed to regard this art-craft as worthy of serious con- sideration will do well to visit the Jones’ collection of inlaid furni- ture at the South Kensington Museum. In it they will find some of the finest specimens in existence, the work of Roentgen, Oeben, Riesener Boulle, or, as it is often written, Buhl, and other masters of the art. A 2 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. From such high-class work as the beautiful marquetry referred to, to ordinary fretwork may appear a wide jump and too remote for them to bear comparison with each other. Practically, how- ever, they are the same thing, so that the maker of a simple fret- work bracket made from an old cigar-box need not despair of being in time able to form the most elaborate inlays. Perhaps one great charm about fretworking as an amusement is the small cost at which it can be indulged in, as neither the tools nor the materials are expensive. The tools and appliances really necessary need not cost more than a few shillings, while a really excellent outfit embracing everything that can be of advantage in connection with the art may be obtained for a comparatively small sum. Another attraction which fretworking has for many is the fact that no place specially set apart as a workroom is required. All that is to be done can be done in an ordinary living room without creating an upset. Though, if the fretworker has a room that he can devote to the purposes of a workshop, so much the better, but it is not indispensable. There is among many people an impression that fretwork articles are of necessity fragile. That many things from the way they are executed are fragile cannot be disputed, but with proper care and forethought, both in the selection of material and in its disposition, there is no reason why this reproach should be a just one. Of course, as fretwork is ornamental in its intention, it would be unreasonable for anything which must be subjected to hard wear and tear to be much embellished with it. Due regard must be paid to the use of the article which is fretted. If this is done, fretwork need not be regarded as a flimsy method of decora- tion. The objection has been raised to fretwork that “ there is nothing in it,” that the work is puerile, and so on. Those who say so can hardly be aware of the enormous number and variety of designs which are procurable. Some of them, it is true, are of a simple character to suit beginners, but others require much skill to do them justice. We are no longer confined to a limited choice of a few brackets, glove, handkerchief, and work boxes, and other trifles of a similar character. Designs for objects of both a useful and an ornamental character can now be got in an almost bewildering number, and they are constantly being produced. It is our intention to show as we proceed not only how to do ordinary fretwork, but after this has been thoroughly dealt with INTRODUCTION. to describe equally fully how the finest marquetry is produced. The tools used, the methods practised, together with every detail which it is essential for either the plain fretcutter rr the marquetry-cutter to know, will be found treated in such a manner as is hoped will be intelligible to all, and form a reliable guide to both amateur and professional. CHAPTER II. Necessary Tools. H S was stated in the previous chapter, the tools absolutely required by the fretsawyer are neither numerous nor costly. To get a really full outfit of tools at the beginning is not at all necessary or desirable. Let them rather be purchased as they are wanted, or as it is found that their possession woulc. be of advantage. To get a number of tools before they are required or before they can be used will probably result in the purchaser finding that he has got some things which he finds useless to him, and that others would have suited his particular requirements better. In a word, he gains experience as he progresses and is thereby able to a great extent to select those tools which seem as though they would suit him best. In- dividual workers may confine themselves to some particular kind of work, or to a limited branch of the fretworker’s craft in which some of the tools mentioned will be comparatively useless. For example, it is quite conceivable that some readers may only do the fretcutting themselves and get the fitting together of the parts done for them. They will then naturally have no occasion to use any but fretcutting tools, so that it would be simply waste to provide themselves with others, although these are necessary to anyone who prefers to make up his own work. We strongly recommend only the purchase of tools of good quality. Inferior ones may cost a little less at the outset, but they are never satisfactory or pleasant to use. As many tools or contrivances may be made at home by the amateur, we shall devote some space later on to a description of such, with sufficient details to enable those who have some knowledge of woodworking to make them. NECESSARY TOOLS. 5 Saw Blades. — The saws, or as they are so often called saw- blades, are thin narrow pieces of steel the ordinary length of which is from 4fin. to a little more than 5in. One, the cutting, edge is serrated with the exception of a short space at the ends. The saws are made up and sold in bundles of a dozen. Most of them are of foreign production, but wherever they are made the saws are very much alike both in appearance and quality. In addition to the continental saws there are at least two well-known makes hailing from the United States which have very marked differ- ences from the others . In the European saws the teeth closely resemble those of ordinary saws, except that they have generally very little or no set. This 4 4 set,” it may be explained, is the technical word signifying the slight sidewards bend which is given to the teeth and is necessary to allow an ordinary saw to pass freely through the wood without binding. Fretsaws being very narrow, the set is not required with them. Whatever the country of their origin, the size of the saw is known by a number. The standards vary slightly among different makers, but to so small an extent that there is for all practical purposes no difference. The numbers run from 000, which are the finest, to 12, the largest used for ordinary purposes. It is seldom that the three finest blades, viz., those known as 000, 00, and 0 will be wanted, and the beginner at any rate will have no use for them. The sizes 1 to 6 are the most useful, though those represented by the higher numbers 7 to 12 may sometimes be used with advantage. Good saws suitable for wood can be obtained for from 2d. to 3d. per dozen, though by purchasing them by the gross a considerable saving is generally effected. The larger-sized blades are rather more expensive and are not always easily met with. Although very much lower priced saws are to be had occasionally, they are mostly defective. Even in the best-known makes a uniform good quality must not be ex- pected, for it is rare to get a dozen blades without some of them being more or less imperfect. Very often it is impossible to detect the imperfect blades without an actual test of their cutting qualities, but a little experience will often enable the user to pick out the faulty ones without taking so much trouble. The sharp- ness of the blade may be fairly judged by drawing the edge between the fingers, so that the points of the teeth catch. Of course this test can only be applied by drawing the saws in their cutting direction. Occasionally it may be noticed that the blade has a twist. Such a saw is seldom of any use, but on this as on many other points experience is the only reliable guide. Sometimes, 6 FEET WORK AND MARQUETRY. owing to defective tempering of the metal or to its having been accidentally filed too deeply between teeth, the blade snaps as soon as an attempt to use it is made. Such a defect is unmistak- able. Other saw blades in which there is apparently no fault are difficult to saw regularly with. They seem to wander from the line from pure “cussedness.” Such a blade, however good it may be otherwise, is not worth bothering with. The novice, however, must be very careful about discarding a saw for any supposed eccentri- city of the sort, or he will be throwing all or nearly all his blades away, for he will find that none of them will keep to the line at first. It would perhaps be better to say that he will not be able to keep them to it, for it will be some time before he can do very accurate work. At first the blade will seem as though it would cut anywhere but just where it ought. In the majority of in- stances let the learner console himself with the reflection that the most expert fretcutter found just the same difficulty with his saw- blades till he acquired skill in using them. For metal fretsawing a harder blade than that usually employed will be found necessary. These saws are rather more expensive than the ordinary kind, about 4d. per dozen being generally charged for them. The beginner is advised not to attempt cutting metal, or indeed any exceptionally hard material, till he has made considerable progress with something easier to manipulate. Among American saws the Griffin and Star blades have de- servedly a good reputation. Though not quite alike, there is a considerable resemblance between them and a marked difference from the ordinary saws in the construction of the teeth, which are very wide apart. We do not, however, recommend them for metal work. The saw known as the Hibernia is also popular. There is no difference between them and the Star saws. For all- round work either of the American blades may be safely recom- mended, either with tne hand frame or with the machine. In addition to saws of the ordinary kind, there are at least two fancy makes, which the worker is likely to meet with or to hear about as his experience widens, and about which he may expect some information here. As is very well known, an ordinary saw has only one cutting edge, and can therefore only cut in one direction. If, however, there were teeth on both edges, or what we call the back as well as on the front of a saw, it could be worked to cut either backwards or forwards as occasion might require. This idea has been embodied in the double-edged fretsaw blade. It is not one which we can commend and we have discarded it long ago. The NECESSARY TOOLS. 7 other out-of-the-way blade is a comparatively recent introduction. It is so arranged that it not only cuts backwards or forwards, but in any direction. It may best be described by comparing it with a piece of wire with teeth projecting in all directions, though it is really a saw of ordinary formation twisted in such a way as to present teeth in each direction. It is just conceivable that such a saw might sometimes be useful, though we have not found it so in our own practice. The difficulty of working it is one objection, it is impossible to cut out sharp corners with it. The slightest deviation in feeding the wood to the blade or a pressure sideways causes the blade to cut where it should not. With an ordinary blade only one edge cuts, and it will be quite as much as the sawyer can do to prevent it cutting unevenly, at least till he has acquired some skill. How much greater, therefore, the difficulty of guiding a blade which cuts equally in all directions ? We would strongly caution the beginner not to use them as part of his regular outfit, till he is able to work the common blades so freely that he is competent to discern any advantages there may be in the others. There is yet another kind of saw which we much like, but in the machine only, as it is too coarse for the small hand-frame. From this it will be gathered that the blade itself is only suitable for comparatively thick or heavy work. It is not one which is recognised as part of the fretworker’s regular outfit, to which, however, it may with advantage be added for such sawing as has been indicated. We refer to a piece of an old fine band saw which has been repeatedly sharpened till it is very narrow. As such a piece of saw is not always to be met with, those who think it might come in handy sometimes are advised to watch their opportunity and get it when they can. The beginner need not lay in a large assortment of saws, and the sizes most likely to be useful to him are the medium. If he gets a few of No. 3 or 4 he will have sufficient to make a start with. Afterwards he will easily be able to know what sizes are the best adapted to any work he may have in hand. At no time will he ever require to have a full assortment of all the sizes that are made. With two or three sizes carefully selected, anything that he is likely to attempt can be accomplished. The gradations in size are extremely minute, so that it is quite impossible to say that because a given number may not suit, that the next to it will do perfectly. There is considerable latitude allowable, and for all practical purposes it i3 sufficient to classify one’s stock of saw- 8 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. blades into three lots, viz., large, medium, and small. For general purposes a No. 4 does very well, and it may be taken as the medium. It is generally better to use as large a saw as is con- venient instead of a smaller one, not so much because the large saw cuts quicker, as because it is stronger, and is not so easily broken. As the saw blade has no stability in itself it cannot be regarded as a complete tool without something to hold it rigid. This may be either a hand-frame or machine, one or other of which must form part of the fretsawyer’s outfit. As there are many varieties of machines, some of the principal will be found described in a chapter devoted to them alone. The humbler hand- frame will be first described, as it will be well for the learner to be able to use it even if he should do most of his cutting with the aid of a machine. Saw Frames. — The hand-frame is indispensable to the fretcutter who must study economy, and we recom- mend even those who ultimately intend to get a machine to practise with the frame till they are fairly expert in using it. Very fair frames may be bought for Is. each, or even less occasionally, and prices range up to several shillings, according to size and quality. A really excellent frame may be bought for about 3s. 6d. The frames are mostly made of steel, though, on account of their lightness, those made of wood are to be preferred generally. Taking the ordinary steel or iron frame, fig. 1 gives a representa- tion of a cheap form. In it the saw clamps which hold the blades are fixtures and beyond opening to receive the ends of the blades they cannot be moved. In fig. 2 a superior make of frame is shown. In it the saw- clamps are movable, so that within reasonable limits they can be made available for broken saws. The chief advantage, however, of having movable jaws or clamps is that they can be Fig. 1. Simple Hand-frame NECESSARY TOOLS. 9 Fig. 2. Useful Hand-frame. turned to face sideways so that the saw can be made to cut in either direction and not merely forward from the back of the frame. By reason of this adaptability much larger pieces of wood can be operated on with a comparatively small frame to what would be required with fixed jaws. Fig. 3 represents really an excellent form of wooden frame, and is the kind used by professional marquetry-cutters. It is both strong and light, so that it may be used with the minimum of fatigue, and having movable clamps is in this respect equal to the most expensive metal frames. For the benefit of those who prefer to make their own frames, directions will be found later on founded on the model of one we use ourselves. As the size of frames has been referred to, it may be well to explain that this is reckoned according to the distance between the saw-blade and the back part of the frame. Thus a 12in. frame will allow of a straight line of that length being sawn from the edge of a piece of wood towards its centre, or by facing the saw sideways a cut of any length at that distance from the edge. A 12in. frame is a very useful size, and anything over 16 inches may be regarded as being rather too cumbersome, especially if it is of metal. The illustrations given may be taken as types of the frames principally used, but there are two others of a distinct variety which may later on with advantage be added to the outfit. One of these is the small frame shown in fig. 4, and known as a jeweller’s bow-saw. fig. 3. Wooden-frame. It will be found very useful on account of its small and handy size, when sawing metal, which is seldom fretted in large pieces. It can be adjusted to almost \lk 10 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. any extent to take small lengths of broken blades. It is more likely to be met with at the ordinary tool dealers than at the fretwork specialists. The same may be said of the ordinary Fig. 4. Jeweller’s Bow-saw. cabinet-maker’s bow-saw shown in fig. 5. This is useful for thicker wood than could be conveniently cut with the ordinary fretsaws The blades used with it are strong and heavy. They are obtainable at any tool shop, and are sold at prices regulated by their length, generally at the rate of about Id. per inch. As the frames are entirely of wood, they may be classed among those tools which the worker can make for his own use, and a detailed description will be found later on. Ordinary and Tenon Saws.— For sawing boards into lengths or pieces with straight edges and making up articles of NECESSAKY TOOLS. 11 fretwork generally a small saw of the usual kind will be found very convenient. A tenon saw, as shown in fig. 6, will be found very useful, though it must be observed that this tool is perhaps not in- dispensable although it is alluded to among the necessary articles. Speaking generally, it may be said that the usual tools of the cabinet-maker will be found useful at some time or other to the fretcutter who makes up his own work. This is indeed nothing but cabinet-making on a small scale. We have, however, not so much concern with these as with the tools which are either absolutely necessary or of special utility to the fretcutter. Boring Tools. — These cannot be dispensed with. That which finds most favour among fretcutters is the drill, as with it holes can be bored cleanly and without risk of splitting the wood. The Fig. 7. Ordinary Drill. drills or bits are made in various sizes. The ordinary form is shown in fig. 7. Only one or two of them will be. required, say one of medium size which will make a hole large enough for any saw to pass through, and a small one to use when the waste wood is not Fig. Archimedean Drill-stock. big enough to allow of a hole being made in it with the large drill without damaging the design to be cut. To use the drill a stock of some sort is required to rotate the drill rapidly. Fig. 8 represents the common or so-called Archimedean drill-stock. FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. i2 which can be got with two or three drills as low as 6d. Drills worked by these stocks are only cutting during the downward stroke of the small sliding handle. With another form of stock represented in fig. 9 the cutting is continuous. A common bradawl or a gimlet may be used instead of a drill, but neither of them is so suitable on account of the liability of splitting the wood. There is also the objection that very small holes which are often necessary cannot be made with them. With a bradawl properly used the risk of a split as well as a hole resulting is comparatively small. The tool is such a useful one in making up fretwork that even if a drill is preferred the novice Fig. 9. Continuous-cutting Drill-stock. ought to know how to use it. The directions are very simple. When beginning to bore see that the edge of the blade is across the grain of the wood and not parallel with it. The edge then cuts the fibres of the wood instead of splitting them apart. When boring with the bradawl the hole is not made by con- tinuously turning the tool round, as with a gimlet, but by a slight rotary movement with pressure. The use of the gimlet is so well known and so obvious that no remarks need be made about it. For the purpose of slightly enlarging holes, as is sometimes necessary, the tool known as a broach is very useful, but it seldom forms part of the fretworker’s outfit. For making round holes, which form a part of many designs, the ordinary brace or stock and bits of the joiner are often better than the saw, i.e., it is easier to bore a large round hole than to cut it. Cutting-Board. — Although fretsawing may be done with- out it, it is still so useful that it may almost be regarded as indispensable. If it is only to save the table from being accidentally injured with the saw, one should be got, but beyond this it forms a most convenient support to the wood while being sawn and much reduces the risk of delicate work NECESSARY TOOLS. 13 being broken. In itself the cutting-board is merely a piece of board of Convenient size to support the fret, or at any rate that part of it which is being worked on. In the front of it there is an opening, usually of a V shape, to allow of the saw working in it. As sold usually it has a wooden screw or cramp to fix it to the ~ table with, as shown in fig. 10. i~\ — ^ It will be understood that the cutting-board is only useful with the hand- frame. Those who use a machine will not require it. Files. — These are for smoothing down rough cuts and getting outlines correct. As skill is acquired the file will be less and less required, till at last its use may be almost if not entirely dispensed with. The files specially prepared for the fretcutter’s use are both small and inexpensive. We may, however, caution him not to indulge in careless sawing with the notion that files will put everything right. It ought not to be necessary to “ improve ” on the work of the saw by filing each cut. It is often possible to use glass paper with greater advantage and more conveniently than files, though these must be used when the fret is in metal and when sharp inside corners have to be cleaned up. The most convenient way of using glass-paper will be found described later on. Fig. 10. Cutting-board. Scraper. — This is a thin flat piece of steel used for the purpose of scraping wood perfectly smooth, and for small work will be found more convenient than the plane for finishing off. The chief difficulty in connection with it is the sharpening, for unless this is done properly the tool is almost useless. The effort should be to get a sharp square edge slightly burred over and not a rounded one. This is managed by drawing a piece of steel, such as the back of a gouge or a scraper sharpener, along the edge, but those who do not know how to do what is required cannot do better than get a cabinet-maker or joiner to show them, as mere verbal description is hardly sufficient. It is specially useful for hard wood. 14 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. Screw-drivers.— One or two of these will be found necessary- in making up work, as it does not always answer to depend on glue alone, and screws are often better than nails for fastening pieces together. The screw-driver is seldom needed of large size, indeed, for most fretwork a large- sized bradawl is better or at least quite as effectual and considerably cheaper. Hammer. — It is not necessary to say more than that one will be required, and that one of small size will be the most convenient. As has been said, many of the tools required by the cabinet- maker will come in handy to the fretsawyer who makes up his own work, and the most useful of these will be cursorily glanced at in the next chapter. CHAPTER III. Useful Tools and Appliances. a LTHOUGrH cabinet-maker’s tools are useful to the fretworker, it must not be supposed that in all cases they need be so large in size as those ordinarily met with in the workshop. As a rule the smaller kinds will be much more convenient to the amateur. For instance, the large jack plane is not necessary to reduce the roughness of boards, nor is the trying plane necessary to shoot straight edges with. Small planes will do all that is required. Fig. ll. Smoothing Plane. Planes. — These, as is well known, are used to take the rough- ness left by the saw from surfaces and edges of boards, as well as to reduce them slightly in size. Several varieties are used for the purpose, but the fretcutter can manage very well with one, or at most two, as the wood he has to manipulate is almost entirely in small pieces. If he does not wish for more rough work than can 16 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. be helped he will buy his wood at least partially smoothed, so that he has, as it were, to give it only the finishing touches. For this purpose a smoothing plane, illustrated in fig. 11, will do admirably. One with a double iron should be preferred, though a little more expensive than a single iron plane. There are also sundry small iron planes sold at very low prices. With even the smallest almost everything that is necessary may be done, especially if the side of the plane is flat. The reason for preference being given to one with a flat side is that with it edges may be shot straight in con- junction with the shooting-board more conveniently than when the plane has a rounded side. As iron planes of the cheaper kind are generally japanned black before they can be used comfortably with the shooting-board, this coating should be rubbed or scraped off. For doing the edges a rabbet plane is an excellent substitute for the cumbersome trying or jointer planes commonly used for the purpose on larger work. Shooting- Board. — This will be found most useful for truing up straight edges and right angles. A simple form, and it is as good as any, is shown in fig. 12. As there repre- sented it consists of a piece of board on which a narrower one is fastened, and across this near one end at right angles with the edge is another piece of wood. It will be seen that by placing the wood of which the edge has to be planed, or technically shot, on the upper board with one end against the transverse piece any part projecting beyond the edge of the upper board can be easily and correctly planed away. To do this the plane, instead of being held upright, USEFUL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 17 is placed on its side on the lower board and its sole to the edge to be planed. As the cross-piece is at right angles with the guiding edge of the board it will be perceived that there is no great diffi- culty in planing a piece of wood with perfectly square corners. Mitre Block. — This is somewhat similar to the ordinary shooting-block just described, in fact it may be regarded as the same thing with the block arranged to shape the wood to an angle of 45 degrees instead of 90. It is principally of use for Fig. 13. Mitre Block. cutting the ends of mouldings to form what is called a mitred joint. For convenience it is usual to have the stop near the centre of the board instead of at one end, and to have it sloping in both directions, as shown in fig. 13. Square. — As it is of the utmost importance that all work should be put together on the square, this appliance will be found indispensable as a guide to the fitter. It is so well known and its use is so evident that nothing more need be said about it. Gauge.— This will be found useful not only for marking purposes but for cutting thin wood instead of sawing it. There are two gauges, known as the cutting and the marking gauges, which are very much alike in appearance. It is the former which will be of most use to the fretcutter. Chisels.— One or two of these will be found necessary. They are seldom required in any but the smallest sizes. B 18 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. Oilstone. — One of these always comes in handy and is neces- sary for keeping edge tools in good condition. Bead-Router or Scratch— One of these will be found extremely useful for forming mouldings or headings on the edges of shelves, or elsewhere, and for a variety of similar purposes. With properly shaped cutters ploughing or grooving, rabbeting, as well as small mouldings, either elaborate or plain, may be accomplished. Gimlets and Bradawls.— One or two of these, in addition to those for boring holes for the saw, will be useful for the purpose of making holes for the screws and nails. They should only be small, as will be more clearly seen from the remark under the heading of nails, etc. Glue. — Every reader of course knows what this is, and may think he knows all about it. Unless he has had a good deal of experience he probably knows very little about it that will be of much use to him if he wants his glue really good, so that parts stuck together with it will not fall apart on the slightest provocation. Though apparently a trivial matter, the proper selection and preparation of glue is of the utmost importance, so that we make no apology for giving somewhat detailed directions about it. First of all care will have to be exercised in its selection, and by paying a fair price there is never any difficulty in getting it of good quality. The best glue is of a clear brown colour, by no means opaque, nor yet perfectly transparent. Some of the latter is good, but as a rule the very light clear glues are not so strong as the darker tinted, as the bleaching processes tend to weaken them. Sometimes their use is unavoidable, but otherwise they should not be selected in preference to those of darker hue. The best test, however, of glue is in its use, as occasionally a very unpromising looking sample turns out better than could have been expected. As, however, all that the fretcutter uses amounts to very little, he can well afford to buy the best. To prepare the glue for use it should be broken into small pieces and soaked in cold water till it has become soft or gelatinised. The more water it absorbs without melting, the better the quality of the glue as a rule. If it dissolves in cold water it is poor and weak. It will have become soft in a few hours, after which it is ready to be melted for use. To melt it all, or USEFUL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 19 nearly all, the surplus water must be poured off, and the remainder put in an ordinary glue-pot. When melted, the glue should run freely from the end of a stick. If it does not, more water must be added to it. As the strength of glue deteriorates each time it is melted, not more than can be used up in a reasonable time should be prepared at once. Some glue sets or hardens more quickly than others, but it by no means follows that because a glue does not set or harden quickly it is defective ; on the contrary, it is generally supposed that a quick-setting glue is not so strong as one which takes a comparatively long time. Various nostrums have been published for either increasing the tenacity of glue or for keeping it always ready for use in a liquid state. Of these latter we have only to caution the reader to have nothing to do with them unless a very weak adhesion will suit him. As for increasing the strength of glue, it may be said that this is very seldom necessary, for good glue properly made and freshly mixed and rightly applied is as strong as there is any occasion for. If anything be required to increase its strength, there is nothing better than either a little brickdust or plaster of Paris mixed in. When using glue, care should be taken that it is not only thoroughly melted, but that it is as hot as it conveniently can be. It is also advisable to warm the parts to which the glue is to be applied. On bringing the parts together, as much as possible of the glue should be squeezed out, and the parts be held in close contact till the glue has set. It is a very common error to suppose that the more of the glue left between two pieces of wood the stronger the joint will be. The reverse is the case. Glue which exudes from the joint can easily be removed any time before it has become hard. It is well not to attempt to clean it off too soon. As the use of glue requires a brush it may be well to. say that a piece of cane hammered out at one end makes a very serviceable one. The hard outer skin should be cut away with a knife from the part to be hammered. If a better brush be preferred it should be a stiff one. For fretwork there is nothing better than a small hoghair brush, as prepared for painting in oil colours. Glass-Paper.— This is necessary both to smooth the work and to remove dirty marks. For the preliminary papering it may be moderately coarse, but for finishing off only the finer grades should be used. It is sold at all tool dealers and often by iron- mongers at very low prices. B 2 20 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. Cork Block. — This is used in connection with the glass-paper just mentioned. It is simply a piece of cork three or four inches long by rather less in width and about one inch thick. The edges on one side are slightly rounded off to prevent the glass-paper being too much torn when it is being used. The paper is folded over the block in any way that may be most convenient to enable it to be rubbed over the wood. The use of glass-paper over a block such as this is necessary to avoid rounding off the sharp edges of fretwork, as they would be if the glass-paper were rubbed on the wood direct with the fingers or without something stiff and flat as a support. A piece of wood instead of cork may be used if preferred, but it is not so good. Screws. — The sizes required are principally the smaller, and those most generally useful are those known as, 00, 0, 1, 2, and 3, in J, £, and finch lengths. In addition to those made of iron a few brass screws, which can be had with either flat or rounded heads, will be useful for fastening on ornamental parts of .brass, such as handles, escutcheons, etc. These screws are considerably more expensive, so they should not be used where iron will do as well. Nails and Needle-Points. — It goes without saying that nails will be as necessary in fretworking as in any other kind of joinery. Those mostly used are of the kind known as wire nails. They are very cheap. Needle-points, as may be gathered from their name, are sharp pieces of steel very much like needles except that they have no eye. In practice they are extremely useful for many purposes. Being very fine, they may be used where the presence of a nail- head would be objectionable, as they can be broken short off at the wood when driven far enough in. They are thus almost invisible. They are also useful when fitting work together temporarily. They can be got at most tool dealers and, like wire nails, are very cheap. A pennyworth will last a considerable time. Sundries. — Compasses will be useful for marking circles on the wood, and some kind of a rule can hardly be dispensed with for measuring. The principal tools which are likely to be required have now been mentioned, so that the list is not a very formidable one. It has not been thought neces- sary to allude to lead pencils, drawing pins, and the multi- USEFUL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 21 tudinous little odds and ends which may be used. Something should be said about the work- bench or table, which it may be assumed is necessary. No special table is necessary — the work may be done on any which is tolerably rigid. The kitchen- table will do admirably, while the same may be said of the dining-room table, with the additional remark that this need not be injured if only moderate care be taken. For those who can have a room set apart as a workshop it will be a convenience to have a bench with a screw fitted to it in the ordinary way. This will be found a great convenience in making up work. CHAPTER IY. Machines for Fretcutters. H MACHINE for fretcutting in its primitive form may be re- garded as a hand-frame, or as an adaptation thereof, fixed in such a manner that the blade of the saw is kept in a certain definite position to the wood which is being cut. In other words, the saw-frame is guided so that the blade cuts with more regularity perpendicularly than when the frame alone is used. Machines are actuated either by hand or by foot, or, in the case of the larger kind in trade workshops, by steam. These latter, being beyond the scope of the amateur, need not be further referred to. Hand Machines. — With these the advantage consists almost entirely in the guidance given to the saw, one hand being at liberty to control the wood and feed it to the blade. With a treadle machine, or one worked by foot, both hands are at liberty to guide the wood, the speed of cutting is increased and, generally, thicker material may be sawn. By a simple contrivance most of the hand machines can be worked by the foot when required, though their power is limited. As the hand machines occupy a sort of intermediate position between the independent hand-frame and the foot or treadle machine, they will be dealt with first. It must be understood that these hand machines are not to be com- pared with the better kind of treadle machines, nor do they allow of the freedom with which the hand-frame may be worked. Their chief recommendation is that they are inexpensive. Fig. 14 represents one of the cheapest and simplest forms of hand machines. The frame which holds the saw is hinged at the back to the portion which is fastened to the table or bench by means of a small iron cramp . The small table for supporting the MACHINES FOR FRETCUTTERS. 23 wood while it is being sawn is of iron, and of course is the counter- part of the cutting-board used with the hand-frame. The downward or cutting movement of the saw is given by depressing the handle and the upward one is aided by the spring. Just behind the handle there is a small eye, to which a piece of string may be attached for the purpose of working the machine with the foot, which is passed through a loop at the bottom end. An examination of the hand machine illustrated below will show that the action of the saw is not perfectly vertical or perpendicular to the surfaces of the work, as the frames being hinged at the back naturally cause the front ends of the arms to describe a portion of a circle. As the saw-blade gives slightly to the pressure of the wood being sawn, this defect is not so noticeable as might be ex- pected, but a true vertical action is to be preferred. With the ordinary hand-frame, of course, it can be got so that in this respect the hand machine is at a disadvantage. It should be stated that hand machines have not enjoyed much popularity, at any rate .in this country, whether because they have not been sufficiently known or because their advantages are not conspicuous must be left to the opinion of the reader. In most books on the subject they are not mentioned, but to omit any notice of them here would be an injustice to the novice, who naturally wants to know all about everything. Treadle Machines. — These may now claim attention, and we may take this opportunity of cautioning the novice against the idea that equally good work can be done with all of them. The first essential of a really useful machine is capacity to do the work it is intended to efficiently. No part of a machine more 24 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. conduces to steady action than a heavy wheel, and the sawing powers may almost be considered as depending on this. Any machine will run easily when no wood is being sawn, so the purchaser must not rely on any trial of the action unless he is cutting at the same time. In selecting a machine the distance from the saw to the back, i.e ., the clear space in which material being worked can be swung, must be noticed, and it may also be advisable to consider whether the machine has a presser foot, by means of which the wood can be kept down close to the table and be prevented from being raised by the action of the saw. The wood can be and often is kept down by the hands, but if through inadvertence the pressure is released while the machine is in motion the wood is jerked up and the saw is probably broken. By the use of the presser foot this risk is lessened and the hands are left entirely free to guide the wood. To give the novice a fair idea of the machines most commonly met with, the principal ones are briefly described. For convenience’ sake they may be divided into two classes, viz., those with true perpendicular action, and those in which the saw, though sufficiently so for ordinary purposes, is not always perfectly vertical. In the former the saw can only move up and down in the same direct line. In the latter the saw is fastened to clamps at the ends of movable wooden arms, so that as these move the position of the saw varies to a small extent. In the cheaper class, that with movable arms, the tension of the saw is equal at all parts of the stroke. The cutting-edge can only be made to face in two directions, i.e., backwards and forwards. In machines with the perpendicular action when a spring is used the tension of the saw varies, though to a practically imperceptible extent ; it is naturally greatest when the saw is at the end of the down- ward stroke and least at the end of the return one. The direction in which the saw faces can be varied so that long wood can be cut. It is not possible to remove the arms, as is occasionally a convenience when threading the saw into the centre, of a very large piece of work, but still for all-round work we are inclined to prefer that with perpendicular action. The Cricket machine is chiefly noticeable on account of its low price, which is about 13s. It is only capable of light work, but so far as it goes it is not to be despised. It has a tilting table, but no blower nor drilling attachment. The clearance is 16in. It is shown in fig. 15. The “ Improved Rogers ” is a very similar MACHINES FOR FRETCUTTERS. 25 machine, but is somewhat heavier and therefore capable of doing heavier work. It has a blower and drill attachment. Clearance 18in. from saw to back. Price 16s. The 4 Lester Improved v is a good machine on very similar lines, but is very much heavier, being about double the weight of the Rogers or 501bs. In addition to blower and drilling spindle, it has an emery wheel, lathe, and circular saw attachments. For saw- ing the clearance is 18in. The circular saw attachment consists of an iron table 4 Jin. x 3in., the saw itself being 2 Jir . diameter. Natur- ally the cutting powers are not great. The lathe attachment is easily adjusted and is useful for doing small turning. Of machines known as the 44 Dexter ” there are three varieties, distinguished as A, B, & C, of which the latter, illustrated in fig. 16, is the best for general purposes. The drilling attachment is unusually convenient. The weight of the machine is rather less than that of the Lester, but excellent work may be done with it. The clearance is rather under 17 in. The B. Dexter is similar, the principal difference being that it is lighter, the table does not tilt, and the clearance is 12 Jin. The A machine has the same distance to the back as the B. It is made to fasten to a table or bench top. Neither the A nor the B patterns are often to be met with. The 44 Rival,” illustrated in fig. 17, is provided with a lathe. The machine is well adapted for sawing small work, its weight being less than that of the Lester and the swing of the arms is 16 Jin. It has an upright drilling arrangement, like the Dexter. The foregoing are the principal machines which the amateur is likely to meet with having movable arms. There are several more, but they are principally of larger size and may be considered as trade workshop tools for doing heavy cutting with. Fig. 15. Thf. Cricket Treadle Machine. 26 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. The other class of machines, viz., those with perpendicular action of saw, may now receive an equal amount of attention. The “Challenge” machine is shown in fig. 18. As will be seen, it has all the features of a first-class machine, tilting table, upright drill, and good blower. The swing under arm is, however, only fifteen inches, so that the space is com- paratively limited. It is a good heavy machine and stands firmly. There is also a lathe attachment, which can be had sepa- rately. The upward stroke of the upper saw-clamp is caused by a bent spring. The “ Fleetwood ” is rather an ornate-look- ing machine, and is as good a one as can be met with, but rather expensive. The “Britannia Ho. 7 ” is an English-made machine and is repre- sented at fig. 19. Being made in England by the well-known Brit- annia Company, it pos- sesses an advantage in having the manufacturers close at hand in the event of any repair being required. The table is much larger than usual, as it extends the whole length under the arm, so that ample support is given to large and fragile work while being cut. A loose piece affords easy access to the lower saw-clamp. The distance to saw from arm is twenty inches, so that large pieces can be worked on. The drill shaft, which is not visible in the illustration, is horizontal, Fig. 16 . Tiie Dexter Treadle Machine. MACHINES FOE FKETCUTTERS. 27 and will hold emery or buff wheels, or polishing brushes. The presser foot and blower are both good, and, of course, the table, as in the case of every good machine, can be fixed at any angle for cutting on the bevel. The upward stroke of the saw is assisted by a spiral spring. The “Britannia Co.’s No. 8” is in every respect an admirable machine, and possesses advantages which are not found in any other. It bears a strong resemblance to the machine last men- tioned, but has several important alterations. Apart from those fea- tures which it posses- ses in common with the No. 7, its chief characteristics are the heavy fly - wheel and the method by which the tension of the saw is secured. The unusual weight of the wheel is an important factor in en- suring that steadiness of action which is so great a comfort to the worker and so essential to accurate cutting. The wheel is grooved for two speeds, so that metal sawing or heavy work which would be almost impossible an any other machine of similar size can be done with comparative ease. Though the machine is stated by the manufacturers to cut wood |in. thick easily, there is no great difficulty with a suitable saw in working lm. oak, by using the slow-speed groove, while either with this or the other one thin stuff may be cut with the greatest ease and accuracy. The equal tension of the saw at all parts of the stroke is Fig. 17 . The Rival Treadle Machine. 28 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. maintained by a very simple and ingenious arrangement of wooden arms, which dispense with any need for the somewhat objection- able spring which is usually an accompaniment of perpendicular action. The tension can instantly be adjusted to a nicety, or altered as may be required. The “ Improved No. 8,” as its name implies, is merely a modified form of the other, in which several minor details have been altered. Although they are only small, they are by no means unimportant to those who can appreciate them. The chief alteration is the addi- tion of an upright drilling arrangement similar in principle to that of the “ Dexter ” and “ Challenge ” machines. The construc- tion of the saw-clamps has also been slightly altered. We have now described the leading features of the best - known machines in the market in order that everyone may be enabled to select for himself. Whichever machine the fretcutter decides on, a few general hints as to its treatment and care will not be amiss, though to those who are accus- tomed to machinery, either large or small, they may to a great extent be super- fluous. The fitting to- gether of the various parts will first engage the attention of the purchaser, unless indeed it is got from a local dealer, who may possibly deliver it fitted up. If sent by rail it will arrive in separate pieces for convenience in packing. To give details for fitting up each machine is of course out of the question, and all that can be done is to recommend the fitter to consider each portion well before attempting to fit up. As a rule there is no difficulty if a little care and judgment be Fig. 18. The Challenge Treadle Machine. MACHINES FOE FKETCUTTEES. 29 exercised. Perhaps the most important piece of advice is that no un- due straining should be exercised to put the parts together. If any great strength is required to get them to fit, it shows that there is either something wrong with the pieces themselves, or, what is much more likely, that the fitter is trying to make the machine up wrongly. All nuts and screws should be tightly fitted, so that the machine may be as rigid as pos- sible. All the working or frictional points should be well oiled, and where they are of wood a mix- ture of soft soap and blacklead or blacklead alone will be better than oil. When the saw is fitted, notice whether the clamps are fixed so that the saw is straight and not twisted, and that it cuts directly to the front. If it does not, a little adjustment will be neces- sary. It will also be advisable to be careful that the table is fixed horizontally, so that the saw cuts square with the wood, that is, of course, assuming that the learner will not at first want to cut on the bevel. It has been said that all screws must be fitted up tightly, but naturally when they are pivots, as in the case of those on which the wooden arms of the Lester swing, discretion must be used. Some attention will be requi- site when adjusting swinging arms, for if they be too tight there will be unnecessary labour in working the machine, and if too loose there will be a sideplay which is neither comfortable nor conducive to good work. After a time the leather cord will probably have stretched and become loose, so that it slips in the Fig 19. The Britannia, No. 7 Treadle Machine. 30 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. grooves, a little must then be cut off one end in order to shorten it ; but if made too tight there will be an unnecessary amount of friction. When once it is properly adjusted a good machine requires very little attention beyond oiling. Perhaps it is expected that something should be said about the cutting capacity of machines, as the question as to the thickness of the wood that can be sawn with any particular machine is often asked. Unfortunately for such inquirers it is not possible to give definite answers, but to give some idea of what may be managed, it may be said that few machines can be worked with comfort if the wood is over |in. thick, although with some of them it is not impossible to saw through even oak of double that thickness. It is rarely that the amateur will have occasion to use wood of more than Jin. thick. Those who want to do really fine inlaid work will do well to select a machine with vertical stfoke of saw and with a good and easily-adjusted presser foot, as otherwise it is difficult to prevent fine pieces of veneer from breaking. The machine for this kind of work should be one of the best. CHAPTER Y. Home-made Tools and Appliances. T is not to be understood that the various things which the j* worker can make for his own use are not to be bought, for everything the fretcutter requires may be bought ready for use. There are, however, many who like to make as much as they can for themselves, and for these the instructions given may be useful, as the tools, etc., described are of the simplest construc- tion, so that anyone possessing a moderate amount of skill can make them. Saw-Frames. — Naturally the saw-frame must first engage attention, and the form about to be described, and which is illus- trated in fig. 3 page 9., is of exactly the same kind as is used by practical marquetry-cutters. It may therefore be regarded as being the best in use. The saw-clamps, fig. 20, will have to be bought, as there are few amateurs who could make them or would care to do so. Assuming that a pair of these have been got, the fraine may be made as follows. The material will be beech, or any strong wood which is not too heavy, |in. thick. Of this for a 12in. size the following pieces will be required, two of them 13in. long and one of them 8£in. They should be lin. wide, though if other proportions are altered accordingly these measurements need not be closely adhered to. The chief thing to be remembered is that the distance between 32 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. the two jaws is somewhat less than the length of the saw-blades. If 4 Jin. be allowed clear it will do very well. The three pieces of the frame are fastened together at the back by a halved joint which should be neatly formed and glued. In each angle, as a stay, glue pieces shaped as shown in fig. 21. These must be trimmed to exactly the thickness of the wood against which they abut. Now, on each side of the frame at each of the corners glue thin (say, Jin.) stuff, covering pieces shaped out to correspond with the braces. The outer corners should be neatly rounded off for the sake of appear- ance as well as for convenience. A joint so made should be as strong as there can be any Fig. 21. Saw-frame reasonable occasion for, but if considered Stays - advisable a few screws or fine nails run through will do no harm. So much for the frame itself, but there is still the handle and its fitting. This will probably be a more difficult job. For the top end to hold the smaller jaw a piece of sound beech, or other suitable wood, ljin. long and the same in diameter, will be required. As it may not be convenient to turn it, there is no absolute necessity for it to be round. If octagonal, that is square with the corners taken off, it will be just as useful for all practical purposes, but it will not look so nice. Through the centre of this in the direction of its length a hole is to be made to pass the Fig. 22. Handle of Saw-frame. screw and receive the square portion of the shank of the jaw as far as the part where it is widened out. A mortise must next be made in one side of this little block to receive the tenon to which the end of the frame is cut. Do not reduce the thickness of the frame more than can be helped, and let the tenon be as large as it can conveniently be. The joint will be secured with glue. The handle itself is a rather more complicated piece of work, but fig. 22. will assist in making all clear. On the jaw which is used in this part of the frame there is a small loose nut on the screw. This nut may be left alone for the present, but it will help HOME-MADE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 33 those who are not acquainted with the construction of a fretsaw handle to understand better what is wanted. As shown in the illustration, the handle is in two portions. The longer one is attached to the frame in the way described for the end, for the other jaw and the iron runs through it. Now, if the nut referred to be in the other part of the handle, as it is represented to be in the illustration, and a hole large enough for the screw to be bored in the length of the wood, it will at once be seen that the jaw may be screwed tightly to the handle. A hole through the smaller piece of wood might do without the nut, but there would be very little durability. It will be seen that the hole in the part of the handle where the frame is fastened on is only large enough to pass the square part of the iron, and that the remainder of it is bored to receive the thinner portion of the other part of the handle. This is bored to take the screw, which it will be noted may fit quite loosely within it. The nut is inserted by cutting a hole through from side to side. It will be convenient if the nut fits tightly. A handle about 6in. in length will do very well. Those who have a steel or iron frame with movable jaws may easily make a wooden frame, as the handle they already have will obviate any neces- sity for a new one being made. All they will have to do will be to make the frame and fasten the handle into a larger hole in the block at the bot- tom than in the top one. If the wood in this block is to be of sufficient substance to hold the part of the handle which in the iroD frame is covered with the metal, it will look very clumsy. In some wooden frames the blocks are not fastened on, but form parts of the top and bottom of the frame. It is claimed for these that they are stronger than those described, but as these are strong enough and have the additional advantage of being more easily repaired, there is no adequate advantage to compensate for the extra trouble of making, and consequently increased cost. Fig. 23 will show how the wood is tapered off from the block to the normal thickness of the frame. The cabinet-maker’s bow-saw frame, illustrated in fig. 10, is one which can be made at home, and may with advantage be added to the outfit if there is any thick wood to be shaped. The shaping of the jaws may be omitted. The saw-clamps or jaws may be bought o Fig. 23. Shape of Wood of Saw-frame. 34 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. with the handles at any ordinary tool shop, or they may be made at home, as they are very simple. Both handles being alike, it will be sufficient to describe one of them. The handle may be of any convenient shape and length that can be grasped comfortably. Into the end of it is screwed a piece of iron or brass rod of about £in. diameter. A screw nail may be used, its head being cut off afterwards. A saw cut extending, say, Jin. will have to be made from the end into which to insert the saw-blade when in use. These blades are either kept in place by a small rivet or piece of wire. The simplest way of doing is to drill a hole through the metal at a right angle with the cut. A piece of wire run through this and the hole in the end of the saw-blade is then all that is required. Fig. 24 shows this part of the work clearly. The thin straight part of the handle goes through a hole in the frame and has a thin piece of brass tubing round it to prevent it from splitting. As these handles can be turned in any direction without loosening the blade, the frame need not be a large one from back to front. The blades are made from 8in. to 16in. in length. One of lOin. is a convenient length. The total length of the arms may appropriately be from lOin. to 1ft. They may be made of wood lin. thick and at the widest part some l|in. wide. The broad piece connecting — or rather, should be said, separating — these two will be in length to correspond with the length of the blade, about lin. wide, and either of the same or slighter substance. At both ends it is sunk into a corresponding mortise in the other portions of the frame, but the fitting must be dry, «.e., without glue and loose. At the other ends of the arms from the saw string is wound round and tightened to the required degree by the small piece of wood which engages with the piece last referred to and so prevents the cord from unwinding. To use the bow-saw the wood must be securely fastened to the bench, as one hand is required for each handle. Naturally the fretcutter will not use this tool when he can use something lighter. HOME-MADE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 35 Cutting- Board. — This certainly can be made at home, indeed it hardly requires making, for it need be nothing but a piece of plain board. For convenience, however, it usually has a triangular piece cut out, as was stated in Chapter II. This, however, may for some purposes be improved on. The particular shape and size are matters of comparative importance, but the arrangement is so simple that there is no reason why the cutter should not have several boards by him, so that he can select that which is most suitable for the work in hand. As the object of the board is merely to support the wood while it is being cut, thick stuff can be worked without risk of breakage on a board with a large open- ing. Fine delicate work, on the contrary, must be supported as much as possible, so that the opening for the blade should not be larger than is necessary. With these general principles to guide him, the beginner can have little difficulty in adapting his cutting- board according to circumstances. The opening is generally of a V shape, and it stands to reason that the inner angle should be acute, or the amount cut away may be so great that there is an inadequate support afforded. For a board of general utility there is nothing better than an opening shaped like a Y with the Y part terminating in a narrow passage for the saw-blade, while for greater freedom in working this there is a small circle bored out with the centre bit or other convenient tool. Large work can be cut over the Y opening. It may sometimes be an advantage to use a board with a simple passage for the saw to a hole for it to work in. It will be found that it is much easier to work with a large opening than with a small one, as the saw in this is apt to catch in the cutting-board. At the outset it is not necessary to have a board with a small opening, as the beginner will not do fine work. The size of the board should be as great as the saw-frame will allow, that is, it must be possible for the frame to swing clear of the front corners. As a rule cutting-boards are much smaller than the outside limit at which they might be used, but the larger they are the smaller the risk of the fretwork being broken while it is being sawn. On the other hand, if the board is too large it is apt to be unwieldy. For general purposes, perhaps, a board measuring 12in. by 8in. is as convenient as any, and it will do to make a start with. In order to fasten the board to the table, one or two cramps of the kind shown in fig. 25 will be required. They are easily obtainable, and as a rule one will suffice. In the board, somewhere c 2 36 FRETWORK AND MARQUETRY. near the centre, though nearer the back than the front, bore a hole large enough to let the top of the cramp, ».e., the end opposite to the screw, pass through it easily. The board might now be fastened to the table, but the upper arm of the cramp being above the surface would be in the way of the wood to be operated on, and this would never do. It is therefore necessary to cut a hollow place in the board for this upper arm to lie in, so that it is below the surface and out of the way. If one cramp is not found to hold securely, then two must be used, the holes for them being bored not in the centre but near the edges. Shooting-Board — This has already been referred to so fully that it is unnecessary to say much more about it. A few detailed direc- tions will suffice. The total length may be from 12in. to 18in., and the width about 6in. These are suitable, but any others may be taken if pre- ferred. As an illustration has been given in Fig. 25. Cramp, fig. 12 it may be advisable to refer to it. On the top of the bottom board, which may be lin. thick, another of about 4in. in width and |in. in thickness is screwed or glued. Its front edge, i.e ., the one which is set back on the lower board, is to be perfectly straight and square. On one end a piece of wood is screwed so that it is at exactly a right angle with the edge of the piece last referred to. The block for shooting mitres is on exactly the same principle, the principal difference being that instead of the stop being at a right angle, it is at one of 45 degrees, and for convenience there are two of them. Any angles can be shot perfectly true either by making shooting-blocks specially, or in a simpler manner by having pieces of wood cut at the desired angles, to put temporarily between the fixed stop and the wood being shot or planed. Scratch or Router. — This is, considering its simpli- city, one of the most - useful tools which the fretcutter can have. Besides its convenience for cutting beads and mouldings on the edges of shelves, etc., its possession renders the worker almost independent of ready-made ornamental mouldings, which form such an important feature of many fretwork articles. The tool itself consists of a wooden stock or handle, to which variously shaped cutting-irons can be made and fitted at pleasure. It is- HOME-MADE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 37 little more than a modification of the ordinary marking or cutting gauges. It is shown in fig. 26. The cutting-iron is movable, and the head or stop is part of the handle. This is formed of two