'-'if VIEWS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF CYCLOPIAN, OR, PELASGIC REMAINS, IN GREECE AND ITALY; WITH CONSTRUCTIONS OF A LATER PERIOD; FROM DRAWINGS BY THE LATE EDWARD DODWELL, ESQ. F S.A. AND MEMBER OF SEVERAL FOREIGN ACADEMIES: INTENDED AS A SUPPLEMENT TO HIS CLASvSICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL TOUR IN GREECE, DURING THE YEARS 1801, 1805, AND 1806. l ONE HUNDRED AND THIRTY-ONE LITHOGRAPHIC PLATES. LONDON: ADOLPHUS RICHTER AND CO. 30, SOHO SQUARE. MDCCCXXXIV. EDITOR’S PREFACE. The Author of the present work, Edwahd Dodweee, is known to the public by his “ Classical and Topographical Tour through Greece,’’ published in 1819, the reputation of which, for accurate and learned research, succeeding years have only confirmed and enhanced. From the period of liis quitting Trinity College, Cambridge, in 180(1, until that of his decease, in May, 1832, he devoted almost the whole of his time to researches connected with the antiquities of the very earliest periods of ancient Greece and its various Colonies. His attention had been strongly arrested, during his travels in Greece, by those remarkable monuments attributed, with nearly unanimous consent, to the Pelasgic nation, and which are often denominated Cyolopian Remains. He has informed us, in various parts of the work alluded to, that, taking Pausanius as his guide, one of his chief objects was to discover the situation and ruins of the many cities mentioned by that old and faithful topographer, which had, through the lapse of time, the depopulating effect of civil wars or foreign conquests, and many other causes, become almost obliterated from the face of Greece. Although “ The Classical Tour in Greece” exhibits sufficient proofs how strongly his mind was then directed to this object of research, yet they bear no comparison to the numerous proofs of the same ardent zeal with which he prosecuted this favourite study in the later years of his life; and it may indeed be said that he sacrificed his life to it, for he never completely recovered from a severe illness brought on by great fatigue and long exposure to the sun in the summer of 1830, when engaged in seeking for the situation of some ancient cities in the Sabine Mountains. The faithful drawings which he made of ancient buildings, both in Greece and Italy, are almost innumerable, and were jjequeathed to the Editor, with the urgent request to have the present Plates published; for he considered them as forming a kind of Supplement to his “ Tour through Greece." He seems not to have contemplated entering into any deep discussion on the obscure subject of Cyclopian Remains, but to have intended to refer the readers of the present work to other learned Authors tvho had written, or were then writing, on the same subject, and with many of whom he was in correspondence, particularly with M. Petit Radel, of Paris.* * Vide "Tour in Greece vol, II. c. vi. p. 219 . VIEWS AND DESCRIPTIONS. No. I. RUINS OF LYCOSURA, IN ARCADIA. The account which Pausanias* gives of Lycosura is comprised in few words. He says " it was the most ancient city in the world, the first that the sun ever illuminated with his rays,” and that “ from these venerable walls men learned how to build other cities.” It was in ruins in the time of the Topographer; it was founded by Lycaon, the Son of Pelasgos, upon the eastern foot of Mount Lycceon, and was the residence of Clitor,t the most powerful King of his time, from whom the city of Clitor in Arcadia derived its origin and its name .% I was particularly anxious to examine the construction of its walls,—and its position is so clearly indicated by Pausanias, that I should have found it without much difficulty, by merely taking his account as my guide, if I had not been misled by some villagers of the vicinity. After a scrutinising search of some days amidst the forests of Lycceon, I succeeded in discovering the spot to which I was directed by the description of Pausanias, and I was highly gratified by an inspection of these venerable ruins, which there is every reason to believe constituted the ancient Lycosura. The acropolis stood upon a fine precipice, of an oblong form, the extremities facing nearly north and south. The western side is composed of inaccessible rocks, and the other which faces the plain of Megalopolis, is supported by a double terrace wall, composed of large rough stones, like the walls of Tiryns. A wall of the same kind was also carried round the extreme edge of the precipice and followed the sinuosities of the rock. The stones are about the size of those which compose the walls of Tiryns. It appears to have had only one gate, the foundations of which are visible at its southern base. Two ruined churches are within the acropolis, with several fragments of columns, of a dark-coloured marble. The remains of the town are scattered round the acropolis; they seem to have occupied a space of about two miles in circuit, and to have covered some undulating elevations. This part of the city appears to have possessed four edifices of the Doric order, of which the columns are of small proportions, and the capitals of a very ancient form. None of the walls of the lower city are preserved. The place is at present named Agios Georgios, and the nearest village is Stala, which is about a mile from it. It is two hours from the village of Sinana. and the ruins of Megalopolis. The distant part of the View is the fertile plain of Megalopolis watered by the Alpheus, the Helisson, and other streams, and bounded on the north-east by a lofty range of rough and wooded mountains. — 2d Vol. 10th Chap. J Pausanias, B. 8, Chap. 2. B Pausanias, B. 8, Chap. 38. f Son of Azaii. No. II. GENERAL VIEW OF TIRYNS, AND THE PLAIN OF ARGOS. Tiryns was situated in a plain, round its acropolis. No vestige of the town remains. The acropolis is a low oblong rock, not thirty feet in height, and in some places scarcely making a protuberance above the plain. It stands north and south. In the former direction it faces Nauplia, and in the other Mycenae. The walls inclose a space of about two hundred and forty-four yards in length, and fifty-four in breadth. They are constructed upon a straight line, without being nicely accommodated to the sinuosities of the rock. So small a fortress appears unworthy of the Tirynthian hero; but though the space it occupies is so inconsiderable, it exhibits dimensions that may not improperly be denominated Herculean. Their general thickness is twenty-one feet, and in some places they are twenty-five. Their present height, in the most perfect part, is forty-three feet. The plain about Tiryns is nearly deserted, and we may say with Statius:*— “-Rarus vacuis habitator in arvis Monstrat, Cyclopum ductas sudoribus arces.” Towards the east of the ruins, some rocky eminences constituted the quarries which furnished the large and massy blocks for the structure of the acropolis. The present View was taken from this spot: it comprehends the plain of Argos, and a richly varied assemblage of objects, with many localities associated with memorable circumstances, or over which classic writers have thrown an imperishable charm. On the left-hand side of the View the rock Palamidi springs up in towering majesty from the sea, that murmurs at its base. This rock commands the town of Nauplia, and is crowned witli a fortress, which renders it one of the strongest positions in Greece. The Argolic Gulf is seen penetrating far inland, on the opposite side of which the site of Lake Serna is marked by some trees at the foot of the pointed Mount Pontinus, that is dimly crested by the ruins of a modem fort. In the middle of the Picture the Tirynthian Acropolis rises from the plain, and presents the whole of its eastern side, which is exhibited with minute fidelity in the foregoing View. More to the right, on the opposite side of the plain, the city of Argos is descried occupying a level surface, while, above it, the acropolis rears its pointed summit, crowned with a ruined fortress of Cyclopian architecture, combined with additions of more recent times, and decorated by an ancient theatre at its base. The lofty mountain that attracts the eye to the left of Argos is Artemision, and the other on the right is Cyllene: they exhibit the grandest features of Arcadian scenery. The three pointed hills at the left extremity of the View form Mount Eubcea, which rises from the ruins of Mycenee, the view of which it intercepts. The trees scattered through the plain are mostly olives.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. • Theb. 4, v. 150. 3 No. nr. VIEW OF THE WALLS OF TIRYNS. Hesiod * and Homer t mention the “ well-built walls of Tiryns.” Apollodorus J and Strabo § assert that it belonged to Prcetos, for whom it was fortified by the Cyclopians. Proetos is supposed to have reigned over the kingdom of Tirynthia about one thousand three hundred and seventy-nine years before our era. This computation would give an antiquity of nearly thirty-two centuries to the walls of Tiryns; and even this long series of revolving years does not appear too vast a period to assign to their duration, when we consider the gigantic masses of which they are composed, and the impenetrable strength which they display. Though the work of human hands, they seem formed to vie in existence with the rocks on which they are erected; and unless they should experience the concussion of an earthquake, or be shattered by the force of artillery, they may last to the end of time. The account given by Pausanias || of the walls of Tiryns accurately represents the earliest style of Cyclopian masonry. He says that “ they were constructed by the Cyclopians, and composed of rough stones, the smallest of which was so large that it could not be drawn by a pair of mules. The spaces formed in the walls by the irregularities of these masses were formerly filled up with smaller stones, which added more harmony to the structure. The walls of Tiryns are probably at the present day nearly in the same state in which they were seen by Pausanias in the second century, for the town does not appear to have been rebuilt or repeopled after its destruction by the Argians, about four hundred and sixty-eight years before Christ. The surprising strength and the extraordinary bulk of these walls induced Pausanias to compare them to the Treasury of Minyas at Orchomenos, and to the pyramids of Egypt. The View here given represents the eastern side of the acropolis, and nearly in the middle are observed the remains of the great gate. Every stone has been drawn with scrupulous exactness—and indeed all the Views contained in the present work were delineated in the camera obscura, without which, perfect accuracy would have been almost impossible where the sides and angles were so numerous, so diversified, and intricate. The narrow limits to which a simple description of each View is necessarily confined would not afford room for particular details with respect to the polygonal system of construction.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. • The Shield of Hercules, v. 81. f Iliad, v. 559. J B. 2. § B. 8, p. 373. II B. 2, c. 25. No. IV. POINTED GATE IN THE WEST WALL OF TIRYNS. £ All the exterior walls of Tiryns are composed of rough blocks, that seem to have been fitted together nearly in the same state in which they were taken from the quarry. The vacuities left by their irregularities have been filled up with 4 smaller stones; the largest in the walls are between nine and ten feet in length and four feet in thickness; their usual size is from three feet to seven, and the walls, when entire, were probably not less than sixty feet in height. The interior of the acropolis exhibits a few detached blocks, which have been hewn, and appear to have belonged to the gates. The gate here represented is, in its present state, seven feet ten inches broad at the base, and nine feet high; but it is considerably lowered by the accumulation of earth and ruins. It is in the western wall, facing Argos, and its form probably bears the most ancient resemblance to that of the Gothic arch. It is composed of approximating blocks, similar to the Treasury of Atreus, at Mycense. Another gate of the same kind appears within the acropolis of Tiryns, with a subterraneous gallery at its south-east angle. One of the gates at Mycenae is of a similar shape; and other examples are found near Messalongi, in Aitolia, and at Thoricus, in Attica: they are also seen amongst the ruins of Arpinium and Signia, in Italy, of which drawings will be given in the latter part of this work. The walls of Tiryns and Mycenae constitute the finest Cyclopian remains that are to be seen in Greece; but these are inferior to the more stupendous structures of Norba, in Latium, which was a Pelasgic colony. Several other Pelas°ic cities whose wonderful ruins still remain in the unexplored and mountainous districts of the Volsci, the Ilernici, the Marsi, and the Sabini, exhibit walls of the same style of construction, and of equal strength and solidity, with those of Argolis._ 2d Vol. 6th Chap. No. V. ACROPOLIS OF MYCENAE. It was a received opinion among the Greeks that Mycenae was founded by Perseus, the brother of Praetos, and that it derived its appellation either from the pommel of a sword, or from a mushroom (pwrr/c), under which a spring of water was discovered. Others imagined it was founded by and took its name from Myceneos, son of Sparton, and grandson of Phoroneus. The walls were said to have been erected by the Cyclopians, who raised the walls of Tiryns. The city was destroyed by the Argians, about four hundred and sixty-eight years before Christ; but the strength of the walls defied their powers of demolition. It is not often that the works of man are found to oppose such invincible obstacles to the devastating propensities of Ins species. The account which has been here given of this singular place is copied from the Topography of Pausanias, by whom it was visited in the second century, and since that period it has not probably experienced any material alteration. The present View represents the south-east side of the acropolis, the form of which bears an affinity to that of a mushroom, to which conjecture has traced the etymology of its name. When the walls were entire, the acropolis had, according to Nonnus, * the appearance of a mural crown. The Cyclopian walls of Mycenae are mentioned by several ancient authors besides Pausanias, such as Euripides, f Seneca,} IIesychius,§ Nonnus, and the scholiast Euripides. || Strabo II says that in his time not even a vestige of Myceme could be found ; but Pausanias, who travelled long after the geographer, has left a description of the same ruins that exist at the present day. B. 41. t Here. fur. Act. 4, v. 99(5. Thyestes, Act. 3, v.407. § Lexic. in verb, \vk\utuv, vol. 2, p. 372. In Orest, v. H B. 0, p. 372. 5 The acropolis of Mycenae is of small dimensions; far beyond it, the city spread itself towards the plain. The walls which remain are of the rough style, and of the more improved construction, composed of hewn and well compacted polygons. This characterises the second style of Cyclopian masonry: of the more primitive style few remains are observable at Mycenrn. The left side of the View exhibits the entrance to the Treasury of Atreus, beyond which is the plain of Argos, and the lofty chain of mountains that forms its western boundary.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. No. VI. GATE OF THE LIONS, AT MYCENAE. Pausanias,* in his description of Mycenai, bestows but a cursory glance upon this singular remnant of early sculpture, but the little which he has said upon the subject cannot be too highly appreciated, from the interest it adds to the monument in question. He says, “ A part of the peribolos of Mycenai still remains, and a gate upon which are lions: these are said to be the work of the Cyclopians, who built the fortress at Tiryns for Praitos.” This gate probably remains in the same condition in which it was seen by the topographer. It formed the principal entrance to the acropolis, but it is at present rendered impervious by accumulations of stones, that are piled up nearly to its lintel. An excavation would be necessary to ascertain its height, but it is probably not less than seventeen feet. Its breadth at top is nine feet and a half. The lintel is fifteen feet and a half in length, six feet eight inches in breadth, and four feet in height. The stone on which are the sculptured lions is twelve feet broad at the base, and nine feet ten inches in height; its general thickness is two feet; it is of a triangular form, and fills the niche made for its reception. The street or approach to the gate is thirty feet and a half in breadth. The lateral walls are nearly regular in their construction, while those which constitute the peribolos of the acropolis are formed of irregular polygons; they are composed of hard compact breccia, procured near the spot; but the block of the lions is a green marble, probably brought from a distance, as some of the kind has been found in Greece. The present Plate renders a description of the sculptured lions unnecessary; and indeed this work does not admit of disquisitions and conjectures upon the origin and meaning of this curious remnant of antiquity. A more circumstantial account of it may be seen in the narrative of my travels in Greece.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. • B. 2, c. 16. No. VII. BACK OF THE GATE OF THE LIONS. It has already been mentioned that the walls which surround the acropolis of Mycenae are built in a different style from those which compose the gate of the lions; the former consist either of rough unhewn masses, or of well joined irregular polygons which have been cut. This renders it probable that the walls and the gate were raised at different periods; but I merely hazard this opinion as an uncertain conjecture, without presuming to decide whether the regular as well as the rough and the polygonal constructions were not sometimes employed at the same period. There are, indeed, reasons for believing that—while the walls of fortresses and strong places were composed of Cyclopian masonry—temples, sepulchres, and edifices consecrated either to the worship of the gods, or to the memory of the dead, were constructed with more symmetry of appearance, but with less massiveness and strength. The former were calculated to resist the aggressions of hostile violence, while even enemies were impressed with the feeling of reverence by the sanctuaries of the gods and the repositories of the dead. The great stone in the middle of the Picture is the same on which the lions are sculptured on the other side of it. Only a part of the lintel is here visible, the accumulation of ruins being greater on this side than on the other. The wall on the left of the gate is composed of rough masses, that appear never to have been hewn, while that on the right of the gate is nearly regular, resembling the Treasury of Atreus, and probably erected at the same period. Both these structures manifest striking indications of Egyptian origin.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. No. VIII. SMALL GATE OF THE ACROPOLIS OF MYCENAE. On the northern side of the acropolis of Mycenae is the small gate, the interior of which is here represented. It is so disposed, that those who entered it would have their left arm (which was defended by the shield) on the side of the acropolis, which is a deviation from the common rule. The grooves for the bolts in the jambs of the door are square and of large dimensions. The breadth of the door is only five feet two inches, but is a little augmented towards the base: it is so much buried by ruins, that its height cannot be ascertained.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. No. IX. EXTERIOR VIEW OF THE TREASURY OF ATREUS. Pausanias* says that the subterraneous chambers of Atreus and his sons, in which they kept their treasures, were among the ruins of Mycenee; as also the sepulchres of Atreus and of all those who, together with Agamemnon, were treacherously slain by iEgisthus after their return from Troy. Pausanias does not enter into a description of the Treasury of Atreus; but his more particular account of the Treasury of Minyas, at Orchomenos, in Bceotia, is perfectly applicable to that of Atreus, at Mycenas, which still remains entire. He says it is of a circular form, with the ceiling terminating in a point, but not accuminated, and that it was one of the wonders of Greece. A space of twenty feet in breadth, between two parallel walls, leads to the Treasury of Atreus. This entrance is nine feet and a half wide at the base, and seven feet ten inches at top, and about nineteen feet in height. It leads, by a passage of eighteen feet in depth, contrived in the solid mass of the wall, to the subterraneous circular apartment, which resembles a Gothic dome, and is concentrated in a key-stone at the top. The Treasury of Minyas was of larger dimensions than this of Atreus: the former was of white marble—this at Mycence is composed of a hard and beautiful breccia, cut upon the spot. The portal and front of the great chamber (the only part not covered with earth) face the acropolis. Over the lintel is a triangular niche—at present destitute of any ornament, though we must suppose that it originally displayed some appropriate decoration. Its height is twelve feet, and its breadth eight feet seven inches. Some masses of rosso anlico and a columnar pilaster, with its base, are lying among the ruins near the gate,. These fragments are covered with spiral and zig-zag ornaments: indeed the whole front of the edifice appears to have been sumptuously embellished, as several holes are visible in the stones, to which ornaments were probably attached. The structure itself, as well as its decorative appendages, manifest so many striking lineaments of the Egyptian style, that we may reasonably suppose it to have been constructed by the colony of the Belides, after the expulsion of the Inachidge from the Argolic territory. * B. 2 , c. 16. No. X. INTERIOR OF THE TREASURY OF ATREUS. This Plate exhibits the interior form of the Treasury, which is that of a Gothic dome. Its present height is forty-nine feet, but the earth is raised above its ancient level. Its diameter is forty-eight feet, but it must be rather more lower 8 ' down. The stones are all parallelograms, and placed in regular layers, of which thirty-four ranges are exposed to view. They are united, with the greatest precision, without the aid of cement. The stones are not of equal dimensions, but the layers are generally about two feet in thickness, though they have the appearance of diminishing towards the top; this, may, however, be the effect of perspective, as there are no means of measuring higher than ten or twelve feet above the level of the ground. This edifice consisted of two chambers: a door leads from the first into the second, which is a square of about twenty-seven feet, and about nineteen in height in its px - esent state, but it has not been sufficiently excavated to find the walls, which are now obstructed by the earth. The present height of this door is nine feet and a half; the breadth, at base, four feet seven inches, but at the top, four inches less. It has a triangular cavity over the lintel, similar to that over the portal of the great chamber, and to that over the gate of the lions. The thickness of this extraordinary edifice, which may be seen at the entrance, is eighteen feet. The lintel of the great portal is composed of two masses of stone, the largest being of the extraordinary dimensions of twenty-seven feet in length, seventeen feet in breadth, and three feet nine inches in thickness, the specific gravity of which must be about one hundred and thirty-three tons. No single masses except those of Egypt and of Balbec can, in point of magnitude, be compared with this stupendous stone : it is of compact breccia, with which the rest of the building is constructed. It is probable that this edifice, when in its pristine grandeur, was furnished with some interior decorations suited to its destination, as a great many long nails of bronze are still found fixed in the stones, even up to the summit of the roof: these nails have large heads, and project about a third part of their length from the stone. There is every reason to believe that this is the identical edifice denominated the Treasury of Atreus by Pausanias. Sixteen centuries ago that traveller was not less bewildered in the dark labyrinth of Mycencean antiquities, than we are at the present day : history throws no light upon their construction, and all that we can know for certain is, that the architects of those distant days were possessed of science and of genius that have not been surpassed in later times!—2d Vol. 6th Chap. No. XI. PORTAL TO ONE OF THE TREASURIES AT MYCENA3. Pausanias mentions five tombs at Mycense besides the subterraneous Treasuries of Atreus and his sons. I found the remains of three other circular chambers, which have fallen in, with the exception of the doors; these are still entire, and have preserved their lintels, though they are nearly covered with ruins. These chambers were evidently less magnificent than the great Treasury. The portal, however, here represented is of the same breadth as that of the Treasury of Atreus, but the thickness of the wall is only ten feet: the lintel is about fifteen feet in length. The lintels of all the doors are composed of two blocks, of which the interior one is the broadest. All these edifices were probably sepulchres; but it is fruitless to indulge in conjectures, as it is impossible to arrive at any satisfactory conclusions respecting a subject of such remote antiquity, with such slender materials for forming an opinion. The pointed hill rising beyond the ruin is Mount Eubcea.—2d Vol. 6th Chap. 9 No. XII. THE PLAIN OF ARGOS. The city of Argos, once so pre-eminent in rank, opulence, and renown, does not at present contain five thousand inhabitants: of these, the majority are Greeks. The town occupies an even surface at the south-east foot of the ancient acropolis. The houses are small and low, and interspersed with gardens. The theatre is situated at the south-east foot of the principal acropolis, which was denominated Larissa; its seats, cut in the rock, are well preserved; and its dimensions are considerable. In front of the theatre is a large Roman wall of brick. The distance is illuminated by the expanded mirror of the Argolic Gulf and the open iEgean sea; the town of Nauplia and the lofty citadel of Palamidi are seen rising from the sea on the left side of the gulf; and under the range of hills more to the left, a small elevation above the plain is capped with the ancient acropolis of Tiryns. Mount Pontinus is descried among the heights that rise from the right side of the gulf: the Lake of Lorna, at its foot, is marked by some lofty poplars. Argos was one of the principal Cyclopian cities of Greece, and Euripides alludes to its Cyclopian structures in four of his plays. * The base of the acropolis, as well as its summit, are still distinguished by some fine remains of the second style of early military construction, consisting of well joined polygons; but I observed none of the rough Tirynthian style. The walls still existing are probably those to which Euripides alludes, as there is no reason for supposing that the well joined polygons were not included in the denomination of Cyclopian, as well as the rough style which occurs at Tiryns and Lycosura. No part of the walls of Argos is visible in this View, but specimens of them are reserved for the end of this work.— 2d Vol. 6th Chap. * Iphig. in Aul. v. 534. Here. fur. v. 15. Troad. v. 108. Danae, v. 2. No. XIII. TREASURY OF MINYAS, AT ORCHOMENOS, IN BCEOTIA. Pausanias * informs us that the Treasury of Minyas was of a circular form, and that its roof terminated in a point. He also styles it one of the wonders of Greece. It was evidently of the same form as the Treasury of Atreus at Mycense, which he only casually mentions: indeed it seems to have been of much larger proportions than that of Atreus. The dome B. 9, chap. 38. 10 of the former has fallen in, but the portal is entire. A considerable part of it has been concealed by the subsequent elevation of the soil, so that only six layers of stones (which are of regular construction) can be discriminated above ground. Of this still visible part, the entire height is seven feet and a half; the breadth of the door at top is eight feet; it widens towards the base. Its height is probably at least twenty 'feet. The lintel is a single block, fifteen feet four inches in length, six feet three inches in breadth, and three feet three inches in thickness: its weight consequently cannot be less than twenty-four tons. The whole edifice is of white marble, which must have been conveyed from a considerable distance. Several perforations for nails are seen at the sides of the entrance, as at the Treasury of Atreus. I was enabled to obtain an approximation to the diameter of the Minycian Treasury by means of the lintel of the gate, which, on the interior, being the segment of a circle, gave, at this level, the diameter of sixty-five feet; but the soil having accumulated, and the building being thereby increased in breadth at its base, its real diameter must be some feet more; which shows it to have been of much larger dimensions than the Treasury of Atreus.—1st Vol. 8th Chap. No. XIV. GATE OF THE ACROPOLIS OF ORCHOMENOS. Three styles of early construction are visible in the walls that enclose the acropolis of Orchomenos. The rough Tirynthian style is discerned only in a few places: the polygonal is predominant, and the walls appear to have experienced at least two great overthrows. According to the testimony of Diodorus Siculus, * Orchomenos was destroyed by Hercules. A similar catastrophe awaited it in the war against the Thebans that happened about three hundred and sixty-four years before Christ. The walls characterised by the earliest style were probably constructed before the time of Hercules; and those which indicate the second style, or well-joined polygons, were erected after the early destruction of the citadel; and the more regular restorations must have been subsequent to the demolition of the city by the Thebans, as they resemble those parts of the walls of Plate which we know to have been raised by Alexander. The acropolis of Orchomenos appears to have possessed three gates: one was at its eastern base, near the lower town ; one on the northern side ; and the other in the southern wall. Of the first there are no remains; the second is without its lintel; and the third is represented in the present View: it diminishes upwards, and is covered by its lintel, composed of two large blocks.— 1st Vol. 8th Chap. 11 No. XV. .AiaHOH&HO TO etlOTOHOA 3HT V.l JJAW DKITOaiOaT WALLS AND TOWER IN THE ACROPOLIS OF ORCHOMENOS, IN BCEOTIA. The walls of the Acropolis of Orchomenos extend from the plain to the summit of the hill, and enclose an irregular triangle, the acute angle of which terminates at the rock. The top of this rock is surmounted by a strong tower, of a quadrangular form, with walls of a regular construction. In the interior a large cistern is excavated in the solid rock. Ninety-one steps, six feet in breadth, are cut in the rock, and lead up to the tower, the position of which is exceedingly strong, and must have been almost impregnable. It commands a prospect of great extent, and still greater interest, over Phocis and Boeotia, with the plain of CliEeroneia and Parnassus towards the north-west, Libadea on the south, and Lake Copais to the east. The right-hand side of the View presents the remains of the northern gate, the lintel of which has fallen to the,ground. The interior of the acropolis contains very few vestiges of antiquity, and is for the most part composed of rough and jagged rocks, upon which no building appears ever to have been raised. The most ancient citadels of Greece were not only used for the defence of the inhabitants, but as a protection for their flocks, which, in the most early periods, constituted the principal source of their wealth, and the great object of their care.— 1st Vol. 8th Chap. No. XVI. ACROPOLIS OF CFLERONEIA. W e are informed by Pausanias * that Homer mentions Cheeroneia under the name of Arne, but Strabo j' is of opinion that Acreephia was the Arne of the poet. The town was situated in an even plain, from which rose a steep, precipitous hill, that was surrounded by the acropolis. The walls were carried round the edge of the rock, and are in several places still preserved. They are of the fourth style, and are nearly regular: they- probably were constructed but a short time before the Macedonian invasion. I could not discern any specimens of the most ancient style of masonry, although the town is said to have been founded by Chseron, the son of Apollo. The Theatre of Chaeroneia fronts the plain, and stands at the north-east front of the acropolis. It is one of the smallest in Greece, but the seats are well preserved. Nothing indeed is more capable of resisting the slow ravages of time, or the sudden aggressions of barbarous violence, than the Grecian theatres when excavated in the solid rock. This theatre had two divisions, or prcecinctiones; some theatres had none, while others had three. The magistrates, and those who were entitled to any particular honour, were seated on the lower range; the middle was reserved for the populace, and the women occupied the upper part.—1st Vol. 7th Chap., and 2d Vol. 4th Chap. * B. 9, c. 39. 12 No. XVII PROJECTING WALL IN THE ACROPOLIS OF CHiERONEIA. Pausanias, in his description of Chseroneia, mentions no temple of that place; nevertheless the summit of the acropolis has evidently been decorated with some sacred or public edifice. An even platform exhibits at present only a dilapidated church of small dimensions, in the walls of which are some ancient fragments; and some Ionic remains of small proportions are observed among the ruins; the lower part of the terrace on which these stand, is supported by a large wall with a projecting base, the construction nearly regular. The other terrace walls which I have observed in Greece, are either straight or nearly so. The highest part of the Acropolis is probably the rock named Petrarchos, where according to Pausanias, Rhae deceived Saturn, by presenting him a stone to devour instead of the infant Jove. This rock was anciently crowned by a statue of Jupiter, but no temple is noticed by Pausanias. Even the sceptre of Agamemnon, one of the principal divinities of the place, was preserved in the house of a priest.—1st Vol. 7th Chap. No. XVIII. RUINS OF GORTYS. The situation of Gortys is here represented. The Gortynios, which flows at the base of the precipices on which the ruins stand, had its source, according to Pausanias, * at Theisoa, in the Methydrian territory, where it was named Lousios, because Jupiter was bathed in its stream soon after he was born : when it reached the town of Gortys it was denominated Gortynios. It was remarkable for the coldness of its waters, which are rolled with dashing violence between steep and lofty precipices, whose darkening shades add to the wild sublimity of the scenery. It enters the Alpheus about five miles to the west of Gortys. Below the ruins of Gortys is a monastery and a cave, situated on the north side of the river, and on the projection of a precipice.—2d Vol. 10th Chap. * B. a, c. 28 . No XIX. ONE OF THE GATES OF GORTYS IN ARCADIA. The ruins which there is reason to believe are those of Gortys, are situated about five miles north and twenty-five west from Caritena. They stand upon a high rock of a precipitous form which is nobly elevated above the north side of the river Gortynios. Gortys was said to have been founded by Gortys, son of Stymphalos, who was son of Elatos, the founder of Elacteia, in Phocis. In the time of Pausanias it had been reduced to the size of a village, but it contained a 13 temple of Aesculapius, the vestiges of which may still be seen. A considerable part of the wall that encompassed the town still remains ; it consists of the second and third styles, composed of very large stones. The ruins of two small contiguous gates, and another of large porportions, facing Caratena, are still observable; their lintels have fallen. This View represents the great gate; the walls that lead to it have evidently been constructed at different epochs. The polygon, or second style, observed on the left, is similar to the greater part of the walls of Argos and Mycenee. The more regular masonry on the right of the gate, is similar to those parts of the walls of Platoea which were erected in the time of Alexander, and may be ranked with the fourth style of Hellenic masonry.—2d Vol. 10th Chap. No. XX. PLAIN OF THORICUS, IN ATTICA. Thoricus, which was a large Demos in the tribe of Acamontis, in Attica, still retains its ancient name. It was the birth-place of Cephalos, the lover of Procris, and was one of the twelve Attic cities in the time of Cecrops. It was strongly fortified by the Athenians in the ninety-third Olympiad, on account of its being the principal safeguard of the neighbouring mines of Mount Laurion. The remains of Thoricus are extensive, and occupy a space probably not less than two miles and a half in circuit. The acropolis was on a pointed hill, which is seen upon the left, rising from the plain. The present View was taken at the distance of about four miles, on the way from Caratea. The acropolis of Thoricus rises conspicuously from a large undulating plain, where there is a mixture of brushwood and of cultivated ground. Its ancient port is seen in the distance, with the islands of Helena, of Ceos, of Cythnos, and of Seriphos. Beyond this line the horizon is occupied by the jEgean Sea. Other islands might be seen on the right-hand side of the View, were they not concealed by the intervening heights of Mount Laurion.—1st Vol. 15th Chap. No. XXI RUINS OF A TOWER AT THORICUS. Thoricus was a place of strength at an early period. Some detached portions of the walls are still preserved. They were carried round the town, and were strengthened by square towers, many of which still remain. We are informed by Xenophon* that Thoricus was fortified by the Athenians in the ninety-third Olympiad. The remaining walls are in the third style of construction, which nearly corresponds with that epocha. The tower here represented is twenty-one feet two inches on each side. The door is destroyed. The construction, though not polygonal, is systematically irregular. The stones, though generally quadrilateral and placed in horizontal ranges, are of various'cfimensions, with a mixture of the obtuse, the acute, and rectangle, but they are generally quadrilateral. The ruins are composed of an inferior kind of white marble, veined with grey, which was procured upon the spot, as the * Hist. B. 1, c. 2. 14 rocks are of the same substance: the grain is fine, but not sparkling like most of the Grecian marbles. It is of a more decomposing quality than that from the Pentelic quarries: it was employed in building the Temple at Sunium. In the distance is seen the uninhabited and rocky island of Helena, extending about six miles from north to south in a line with the Attic coast, and terminating nearly opposite the promontory of Sunium. Paris was supposed to have enjoyed the first favours of Helena in this island, to which circumstance it owed its name and its celebrity. The cape near the shore is the ancient port of Thoricus, and is at present denominated Porto Mandri, which Stuart,* without any plausible reason, imagines to have been the Pantomatrion of Ptolemy.—1st Vol. 15th Chap. No. XXII. LITTLE POINTED GATE AT THORICUS. This gate, of the Cyclopian or Tirynthian style, is fixed in a wall placed at right angles with the wall of the theatre. The gate in its present state is little more than five feet in height, but more than half of it is probably concealed by the mass of earth and stones accumulated at its base. The construction of the wall is nearly regular, and the stones are not, generally, more than a foot and a half in thickness.—1st Vol. 15th Chap. No. XXIII. THEATRE AT THORICUS. The acropolis of Thoricus is accompanied at its base by the remains of a curious and magnificent theatre, which I should conceive to be one of the most ancient in Greece. The seats are preserved, and also fifteen ranges of blocks of the exterior wall, in its circular part. Some trifling irregularity may be remarked in the construction, but it is not so palpable as in the walls and towers of the city. A passage appears to have been conducted round the exterior of the coilon.— 1st Vol. 3d Chap. No. XXIV. RUINS OF A DORIC BUILDING AT THORICUS. A general idea of the ruins of Thoricus has been given in the preceding Plates, but attention is still due to the curious Doric edifice here delineated. Its general plan differs from that of temples, and it is difficult to say for what purpose it was designed. It has been accurately published by Le Roy, who imagines it to have lieem a hexastyle temple, * Ptolem. Geog. B. 3, c. 17, p. 91, first edition. \o with thirteen columns on each side; but this is erroneous. The edifice has fallen to the ground, and the greater part of it is buried beneath the ground, or is covered with the dense and almost impenetrable foliage of the lentiscus. I found it impossible to develop its plan without making excavations which would have required much time and considerable expense. This was, however, afterwards effected in 1812, by the Mission of the Dilletanti Society, by whom it is delineated with seven columns in the front, and fourteen on the flanks. The columns are far inferior, in the perfection of their finish, to those of the other Attic temples, which were erected either in the time of Pericles, or nearly at that period. They are five diameters in height, including the capital; they are fluted only at the base under the capital; they have none of the entasis, or swelling, which is slightly observable in the columns of most Grecian temples.—1st Vol. 15th Chap. No. XXV. RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY NEAR MESSALONGI, IN CETOLIA. The ruins here represented are situated about four miles to the north of the modern town of Messalongi in (Etolia. They stand upon a rocky steep that bounds the marshes which extend along the coast, between the Achelous and the Evenos. The view from this spot is replete with all the charms that constitute beauty of landscape, while classical recollections heighten the interest of the impressive scene. Towards the east, the lofty Mount Chalcis rises abruptly from the sea, and closes the view of the Corinthian Gulf, on the opposite side of which the town of Patra and the Achaian heights are conspicuously situated. More to the south are the low outstretching hills of Eleia, surmounted by the loftier summits of the Arcadian Olenos. The Araxian promontory is seen projecting far into the sea, and the situations of Dyme, Pharai, and Cyllene are faintly descried along the coast, of which Cape Chelonotas forms the farthest boundary. The islands of Takemthus and Cephallonia are visible towards the south, and more to the west are Ithaca and the Echinades. Below the view is the modern town of Messalongi; and a few miles further, in the same direction, the Evenos is seen, like a line of silver, gliding through a richly varied plain, sprinkled with villages and chequered with a diversity of verdure and of cultivation. In the opposite direction the broad Achelous shows his fancifully twisted stream, that divides the Acarnanian and (Etolian plains, the surface of which is relieved by many insulated hills that were probably once surrounded by the sea. The ancient name of the place from which this View was taken is uncertain. The walls are apparently about two miles in circuit, and are raised along the edge of a steep and rocky hill, of an oblong form. It had two gates, one facing the east, the other the north: the former is without its lintel, which is seen among the ruins; the other gate is entire.— 1st Vol. 3d Chap. 16 No. XXVI. AN ANCIENT GATE OF THE RUINED CITY NEAR MESSALONGI. Of the two gates with which this city was provided, only one remains entire : the interior view of it is given in the present Plate. We here discern that complicated style of masonry which may be attributed to the third epoch of Grecian military architecture. The general thickness of the walls is eight feet: they are composed of large masses, closely united; and several of the stones are nine feet in length. The middle space, or body of the wall, is filled with smaller stones and earth, forming a mass, of a hard and durable consistency, that appears to be the emplecton of Vitruvius, but which he pretends was not used by the Greeks. I have, however, seen similar constructions, in various parts of Greece, in walls of very remote antiquity, although the Greek walls are frequently composed of solid masses of large stones. In the walls of this place the masonry is generally of the third style, and very complicated : the stones are mostly quadrilateral, but seldom rectangular; the disposition of the layers is horizontal, but their thickness varies so considerably, that in some parts one layer is as broad as three immediately adjacent. The interstices left by angular irregularities are filled up with smaller stones. On the highest part of the hill the walls show indications of greater antiquity than those lower down: they seem to have been destroyed at an early period, and afterwards rebuilt. In some places an approximation to the Tirynthian style appears. Equidistant square towers, protruding from the walls, were erected round the town, some of which are still in a state of good preservation.—1st Vol. 3d Chap. No. XXVII POINTED GATES IN TIIE RUINED CITY NEAR MESSALONGI. In the lower part of the ruins of this city there is a chamber cut down perpendicularly in the rock. The breadth of this chamber is crossed by five parallel walls, reaching to the upper surface of the rock : the six intermediate spaces formed by the walls and the two extremities of the chamber appear to have been covered with a flat roof. This singular edifice is composed of much smaller stones than those which were used in the walls of the city; the masonry is nearly regular, or at least exhibits only a few trifling irregularities, evidently more to be attributed to fortuitous circumstances than to any systematic plan. The stones are well united, but the exterior surface is rustic, or rough. Each of these walls has three apertures, or gateways, of unequal dimensions, and of a pyramidal form, terminating at top in an acute angle. Similar gates occur at Mycenas and at Tiryns, and they are found also in some ancient cities in Italy which owed their ori°-in to Pelasgic colonies. 17 It is not easy to conceive the purpose for which these chambers were constructed, or to what use they were applied. They might have been employed either as prisons, as cisterns, or as granaries. The great wall is seven feet and a half in breadth, and sixteen in height. The second door is not quite as broad as the other, and is thirteen feet in height; the smaller door is ten feet high: but the earth is considerably raised about them. The entire height of the wall is twenty-four feet.—1st Vol. 3rd Chap. No. XXVIII. GENERAL VIEW OF THE POINTED GATES. There is little to describe in the present View: it is given merely in order to show the form of the curious structure already described in the foregoing page. Some of the square towers and the south-east angle of the walls are visible in this View. The distant cape on the left hand is the promontory of Araxos, which anciently formed the line of separation between the Achaian and Eleian territory: the low land beyond it towards the right is the Eleian shore, which shoots out into the long promontory of Chelonatas; after which the eye glances on the termination of the Ionian sea and the horizon of the iEgean. The next land distinguished is Mount Elatos and the island of Zakunthus, with its long flowing margin of coast. Below the walls of the ancient city, the eye expatiates over the plain of Messalongi; and the sea is interspersed with narrow patches of mud and slips of morass, the waters between which supply the inhabitants of the neighbouring coast with rich and extensive fisheries. Nearly in the middle of these lagunes is seen the fisherman’s small island and village of Basiladi: a little to its left, some ships are riding at anchor where the waves of the open sea begin to roll. This spot is about five miles from Messalongi, towards which the shallowness of the water prevents any nearer navigation.—1st Vol. 3rd Chap. No. XXIX. SMALL THEATRE IN THE ABOVE ANCIENT CITY. The ancient city already described exhibits the remains of a theatre on its southern side; this edifice is situated only a few paces within the walls, where it commands a noble prospect of the sea, with the coast of Achaia, and the Araxian promontory stretching out towards the west, far beyond which the Chelonatan promontory ultimately terminates the protracted length of the Eleian shore. The theatre here represented is in a state of good preservation, but is one of the smallest in Greece. Four of the seats of the semicircle are still left, and part of the wall of the proscenium, as well as the lateral walls. It is regularly constructed: the stones are much smaller than those which compose the walls of the city, that are seen a little below the theatre.— 1st Vol. 3rd Chap. 18 No. XXX. WALLS OF GALAXIDI, THE ANCIENT iEANTHE, IN OZOLGEA LOCRIS. Galaxidi is supposed to be the ancient Euanthia, or iEanthe, which Polybius places in iEtolia, opposite Egira. The only remains consist of some foundations and a long wall, with three courses of large stones, well preserved, and built in the fourth style, approaching to regular masonry. The principal part of the town seems to have been on a peninsula, a few hundred yards to the east of the village: there are several traces upon it, composed of large blocks, and the rocks have been cut and flattened for the foundations of ancient edifices. The village stands on a rocky peninsula, having two secure ports, and bearing a considerable resemblance to the town of Mitylene, on a small scale: the houses are of earth; some of the best are white-washed, and have two floors. It is under the jurisdiction of the Vaivode of Salona.—1st Vol. 5th Chap. No. XXXI. GATE AT AGIA EUPHEMIA, IN OZALCEA LOCRIS. The ruins of this city stand in a plain, encompassed by mountains. It seems, like Mantinea and Megalopolis, to have had no acropolis. Its circuit is small—apparently not above one mile and a half. The walls are well preserved, and in the style of those of Galaxidi. Equidistant square towers extend round the town: the steps up to many of them remain. None of the gates are entire; and that here represented is too imperfect to convey a clear idea of its ancient form. The blocks which compose the walls are ornamented, and cut with parallel perpendicular lines—a useless labour, which is observable in many other parts of Greece. This ornament is still used in Italy, and the lines are sometimes horizontal.—1st Vol. 5th Chap. No. XXXII TOWN OF SALONA, AND RUINS OF AMPHISSA, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF OZOLCEA LOCRIS. Salona is situated at the northern extremity of the Crissean plain, at present called xanzio; rou Hpivaou, about nine miles from the Gulf, and at the foot of some lofty mountains now called Cophinas and Elatos, which nearly surround it. 19 From this circumstance some have imagined it took its ancient name, Amphissa; while others attribute it to a daughter of Macareus. Its position is extremely picturesque; and the castle, which occupies the place of the ancient acropolis, stands upon an abrupt rock, rising nobly in the middle of the city, which it completely commands. It is still, as formerly, the largest city of the Hesperian or Ozolian Locris. Pausanias describes it as a large and most celebrated town, which shows that it must have survived the misfortunes of the sacred war, though Strabo mentions it as a ruined place. In the war against Brennus and the Gauls, it gave a contingent of four hundred heavy-armed infantry.—1st Vol. 5th Chap. No. XXXIII. ACROPOLIS OF AMPHISSA. The acropolis is a mass of ruins. Three distinct periods of architecture are evidently distinguishable in its walls: these are—the second style of ancient Greece, consisting of well united polygons, that of the lower empire, and that of the modem Turkish. There are no remains of the Temple of Minerva: its site is perhaps now occupied by the ruins of a large house, apparently of Venetian or Low Empire architecture, which, according to tradition, was the palace of Queen Oraia. I have not been able to learn whether this Queen was a real or an imaginary personage. A plentiful spring, forming several clear fountains, rises at the base of this ruin. There is also in the citadel a ruined church of St. Anthony, with a subterraneous passage, which they say leads to the Monastery of the Saviour a mile distant. There is a grand and picturesque cavern, formed by nature, in the rock of the acropolis, in which nitre is made.—1st Vol. 5th Chap. Nos. XXXIV. AND XXXV. RUINS OF DELPHI, IN PHOCIS. Justin says that Delphi had no walls, but was defended by its precipices. Strabo gives it a circuit of sixteen stadia and Pausanias calls it ■boms, which seems to imply that it was walled like other cities. In earlier times it was perhaps, like Olympia, defended by the sanctity of its oracle and the presence of its god, which, not being found a sufficient protection against the enterprises of the profane, it was probably fortified, and became a regular city, after the predatory incursions of the Phocians. The walls may, however, be coeval with the foundation of the city itself: their high antiquity is not disproved by the use of mortar in their construction. Some of the Egyptian pyramids are built in a similar manner, as well as the walls of Babylon. No situation can surpass the approach to Delphi. Its grand and theatrical appearance, combined with its ancient celebrity, its mouldering ruins, and its fallen state, form such extreme contrasts, that it is difficult to decide whether more regret is excited by its departed splendour, or more satisfaction felt in still beholding some remains of its former 20 magnificence. The celebrated edifice, the Temple of Apollo, has vanished like a dream, leaving not a trace behind! Pausanias says it was in the upper part of the town, and near a magnificent theatre, which indeed was within its peribolos. The Grecian theatres being generally hewn out of the solid rock, I had reason to hope I should find it, and that it would lead to the discovery of the Temple; but' I could discover no positive traces of either one or the other. It appears that the far-famed Temple of Apollo must be sought for under the humble cottages of Castri, as the whole village stands within its peribolos.—1st Vol. 6th Chap. Nos. XXXVI. AND XXXVII. ANCIENT SEPULCHRES NEAR DELPHI. On the left of the road between Crisso and Delphi is a rock containing several sepulchral chambers cut in the solid mass: their entrances are in the form of round arches. Some of them contain three sarcophagi, each under a round niche : they have all been opened, and their covers broken. These sarcophagi form but one mass with the rock. A few yards from the above-mentioned sepulchres are the traces of the walls of Delphi, and one of the gates, composed of small stones, united by cement, which were probably coated with hewn blocks, some of which are dispersed around. This style of construction is the emplecton of Vitruvius.—1st Vol. 6th Chap. Nos. XXXVIII. AND XXXIX. RUINS OF LI LAI A, IN PHOCIS. The acropolis of Lilaia is upon an abrupt and rocky acclivity projecting from Parnassus. The lower town was in the plain, and several remains of the walls and towers are in a wonderful state of preservation, and in the third style of construction. Some of the square towers have their doors and windows remaining, all of which diminish upwards. The labour of excavation would here be probably more than compensated by the ancient relics that would be brought to li°-ht. The dispersion of marble fragments—among which is a thronos of white marble—leads us to infer that the town itself was enriched by various embellishments of the arts. The sources of the Cephissus are seen in some fine springs gushing from the foot of the mountain, and immediately forming a copious and rapid stream.—2d Vol. 4th Chap. 21 No. XL. TERRACE WALLS AND DRAINS OF THE TEMPLE OF MINERVA CRANEA. At the village of Eleuta we endeavoured to obtain some information concerning this Temple, which, according to Pausanias, was twenty stadia from Elatea. We were told that some ancient walls and columns were seen upon the hills, at about three-quarters of an hour from the village. Pausanias says the road to it has a gentle ascent. We proceeded in a northern direction, and having crossed a stream, we ascended gently, and arrived in half an hour at a church with some blocks about it, and a large broken vase of stone, apparently the ancient receptacle of a fountain that here issues from the rock. In fourteen minutes more, we reached the ruins of the Temple, situated precisely as Pausanias describes it, on a steep rock of inconsiderable height and dimensions. It was surrounded by a peribolos. The south side is supported by a strong fence-wall of great antiquity, at present composed of eleven layers of stones, constructed with a certain degree of irregularity nearly approaching the system of polygons. This wall is furnished with several drains, three in a line, one over the other. The peribolos was closed by a gate, the traces of which are seen at the north-west angle, where we entered. Several foundations are discovered round the Temple, which probably belonged to the porticoes and buildings for the priests and attendants. The Temple itself was smaller than the Thescion at Athens, and built upon the same plan. The lower parts of four columns are standing in their places; they are of stone-fluted Doric, two feet seven inches in diameter: the intercolumniations are four feet six inches.—2d Yol 4th Chap. No. XLI. RUINS OF AN ANCIENT CITY IN DORIS. This city seems to have been of small circuit. The walls, which are in the third style, are nine feet and a half in thickness, and are fortified with square towers.—2d Vol. 4th Chap. 22 Nos. XLII. and XLIII. RUINS OF TITHORCEA, IN PHOCIS. The walls of this ancient town are of the third and fourth styles, and built up the side of a steep hill till they reach the foot of the precipice. They are fortified with square towers in good preservation, approaching to the regular construction, and are, no doubt, much less ancient than the other parts of the walls. Each tower has two doors and two rows of windows, of the usual form, diminishing towards the top. The interior of these towers is nineteen feet eight inches square: they were originally of two stories. The holes that received the beams are seen in the walls above the lower range of windows. It appears from Herodotus and Pausanias that the most ancient name of this place was Neon. It was in a state of decay in the time of the topographer, but contained a theatre, an ancient agora, and the grove, temple, and statue of Minerva.— 2d Vol. 4th Chap. Nos. XLIV. AND XLV. ACROPOLIS OF DAULIA, AND A GATE OF THE ACROPOLIS. Daulia, or Daulis, stands upon a hill projecting from Parnassus. The vicinity of this snow-topped mountain renders Daulis intensely cold during the winter months. No olives grow in its neighbourhood; little corn is reaped, or wine made: in the plain at the foot of the mountain are some profitable rice-grounds. The ancient town was erected on the site at present occupied by the village and its gardens, but the buildings extended lower down towards the plain. Two of the churches are composed almost entirely of ancient blocks and architectural fragments, among which I found a fine inscription on a slab of marble; it is a decree of Titus Flavius Eubulus about some lands in Daulis, in the time of the Emperor Trajan. On the other side of the same slab is another inscription, the purport of which I am unacquainted with. The acropolis is situated upon an oblong rock above the village; some part of the walls is in the second style; it seems to have been twice almost entirely demolished and rebuilt, the greater part of the walls being in the third and fourth styles. It was burnt by Xerxes, and again destroyed in the third sacred war, but it was evidently in existence in the time of Trajan. It was, perhaps, retained as a stronghold after the ruin of the city. Livy notices its strength : “ Daulis, quia in tumulo excelso sita est, nec sealis, nec operibus, capi poterat.” The acropolis is precipitous on all sides, and had but one entrance, which looks towards Parnassus; it was defended by square towers, extending round the edge of the rock, and projecting from the walls. The lower parts of some of these towers still remain. They were constructed, like those of other fortified cities in Greece, according to the rule of Vitruvius, who says that they ought to project from the walls on the outside, in order that the assailants may_be annoyed in front and on each side. The gate is also constructed according 23 to his plan; the approach to it exposes the right side of the besieger, which has not the shield, to the besieged, by whom he may be assailed to advantage from the walls. The lintel of the gate is fallen. It stood between two round towers, composed of small stones and mortar, apparently of Roman construction; there are two inscriptions within the ruined church, but are so corroded as to be totally illegible.— 1st Vol. 7th Chap. No. XLVI. RUINS OF PANOPIUS. The ancient Panopius is now a village, called Agios-Blasios, from the name of the titular saint of Ragusa. The Greeks pronounce it Avilash, and the English, St. Blase. Strabo says it was anciently called Panopius, although, in his time, it was called Phanotius. Pausanias calls it by its former name; Herodotus, Panopeai; Thucydides, Phanotis; Polybius, Phanotius; and Livy, Phanotea. It probably received its name from its lofty and commanding situation, rather than from the son of Phocus. Pausanias says, that the circuit of Panopius is about seven stadia, but he evidently alludes to the acropolis alone, the walls of which extend round the rocky summit of the hill, and exhibit specimens of the three last styles of Grecian masonry, although polygons are seen only in a few places; some of the stones are twelve feet in length. The square towers, which project from the wall like those of Daulis, are apparently of a less ancient construction than the rest of the enclosure. Some of them are extremely perfect, and contain doors and windows of the usual form, diminishing towards the top. In some places, the steps leading up to the towers are cut in the rock. Besides the gate which faces Parnassus, there is another on the western side of the acropolis, built with very large blocks, of the third style, the outer surface left rough. The architrave is fallen. Panopius was destroyed by Xerxes, and probably never afterwards recovered its former prosperity. Pausanias mentions only a small temple at Panopius, formed of unbaked bricks; there were many other examples of this kind of construction in Greece. According to Mr. Hamilton, some pyramids are still to be seen in Egypt, built in the same manner.—1st Vol. 7th Chap. No. XLVII. RUINS OF HALIARTUS, IN BCEOTIA. The remains of this city are situated about fifteen miles from Libadea, and at nearly an equal distance from Thebes • the place is now called Microcura. The acropolis occupies a low oblong hill, one side of which rises from a fine pastoral plain, the other from the marshes, where the canes grow with which the ancients made darts and musical pipes. 24 Most of the remaining walls are probably posterior to the time of Homer, but prior to its capture by the Romans in the war against Perseus of Macedon ; though Livy, who resembles Diodorus Siculus and Strabo in levelling cities, says that it is “urbs diruta a fundamentis” It was considered the strongest of the Bceotian cities, next to Thebes; and even after Lysander had captured Libadea and Orchomenos, he hesitated to attack Haliartus. It was destroyed by the troops of Xerxes, and was probably rebuilt by Alexander, or about that period, the greater part of the walls being in the style of that part of Platosa which was restored by the Macedonian conqueror. There are also a few remains of the second and third styles of masonry.— 1st Vol. 8th Chap. No. XLVIII. RUINS OF THISBE. IN BCEOTIA. The ancient walls of Thisbe are situated on the edge of a steep rock of moderate height and oblong form. On this rock was the Thisbe of Homer. It still abounds with an incredible number of pigeons, which build their nests in the neigh¬ bouring precipices. Some few remains of the Tirynthian style are still visible, but the walls have evidently been restored at different times. The third style of construction is predominant. The walls are eight feet thick, and the middle space, composed of small stones, is four feet. At the foot of the rock are several sepulchral chambers, of the S^aiou kind, cut in the solid mass, containing from one sarcophagus to five, all, however, uncovered and empty.—2d Vol. 8th Chap. Nos. XLIX. and L. RUINS OF PLATCEA, IN BCEOTIA. Platiea was destroyed by the Persians; and both Thucydides and Pausanias agree that the whole town, except the temples, was subsequently razed to the ground by the animosity of the Thebans. There are very few and imperfect remains of the original walls; they have evidently been almost wholly rebuilt from their foundations, and were in the ancient rough style. In other cities, only partly demolished, we may discriminate two or three different styles and periods of architecture, as in the Orchomenos of Bceotia, and that of Arcadia, and several others. The walls are composed in general of regular masonry, with some accidental irregularity in the size of the stones. They are about eight feet thick, and are fortified by square towers, with a few circular ones. They are ornamented with perpendicular stripes or incisions, similar to those noticed at Agia-Euphemia, in Locris, and which occur in most of the walls of this period. I could find no traces of the 25 double wall, built round the town during the siege by the Spartan Archidamus. It was merely a temporary work, not intended for permanent preservation. According to Procopius, the walls of Platoea were restored by Justinian. Pausanias mentions three temples at this place; that of Juno, that of Minerva Aria, and another of Ceres. Strabo mentions the temple of Jupiter the deliverer, but Pausanias only notices the statue and the altar of the god. Plutarch mentions the temple of Diana Eukleia, at Platoea. The Spartan king, Pausanias, was posted near the temple of Juno, at the commencement of the battle. I could find no certain traces of these temples; there are several heaps of large stones, which perhaps mark, but do not determine, their situations. Plutarch says, that the sepulchres of those who fell at Platcea were near the fountain, probably Gargaphia. The Platoeans, the Athenians, and the Lacedemonians, had separate tombs; but a common monument was raised to the Greeks m general E\xnn xoaov. Strabo says that these sepulchres are near the walls, and calls them the common or general tombs, t a$>) on/ioma. I searched in vain for some traces of the camp of Mardonius; for though it was of wood, it was, no doubt, fortified with entrenchments and banks of earth.—1st vol. 9th Chap. Nos. LI. AND LII. RUINS AT GYPHTO-CASTRO, THE ANCIENT ELEUTHERAI. In a little more than three hours from Platcea, we reached the foot of a rocky hill, crowned with the ruin of an acropolis, now called Gyphto-Castro, or more properly, Aigypto-Castro, probably the ancient Eleutherai. It is situated upon an insulated rock, steep on all sides ; it seems to have been designed for the protection of the pass between Bceotia and Attica. The enclosure is oblong, and runs nearly east and west. Its entire length is about 360 yards, and its greatest breadth about 110. The walls are very perfect, and in the style of those of Mantinea and Messene. They are fortified with square towers, at unequal distances, projecting from the walls. Many of these towers are entire; they were divided into two stories, each of which had two rooms; at least the upper story, which had two entrances from without, and three small windows. The lower story has only one door, which is three and a half feet wide at the base, diminishing upwards. The walls are five feet and a half in thickness; the inside space of the towers is fifteen feet square. The walls of the acropolis are eight feet thick, and are pierced by several doors. I measured the vpotrro/ua, or opening of one of them, and found it four feet two inches at the base, and three feet at the top. The (vyov or lintel is a flat stone, seven feet long. There seems to have been four entrances to the acropolis, two of which were on the north and south sides, and the others on the eastern and western extremities. Within the peribolos of the walls are the remains of a large oblong rectangular building, composed of a few layers of blocks of a polygonal form, which probably constituted the cella of a temple. I made a fruitless search for ancient inscriptions and architectural decorations; I found only some fragments of coarse pottery.—1st Vol. 9th Chap. 2G Nos. LIII. AND LIV. CASTLE OF PHYLE, IN ATTICA. Diodorus places Pbyle only one hundred stadia from Athens, which seems short of the real measure; the distance is probably twelve miles, as it requires four hours to reach it from Athens. It was always regarded as a place of consider¬ able strength and importance, and when Thrasybulus had taken it by surprise, he was enabled, with a very small force, to resist the attacks of the Athenian army, commanded by the Thirty Tyrants. The town of Phyle was situated near the foot of the castle-hill or acropolis; some traces of it still remain, consisting of the foundations of a square tower, and a transverse wall to guard the pass; several large blocks are here scattered about, with a clear spring of water rippling among the ruins of the town. The castle stands upon a hill, accessible only on the east and south sides. The building, of which a great part remains, is of an oblong form; the narrow sides facing the east and west. Its length is about 170 yards, and its breadth nearly 90. There were two entrances, one on the east, the other on the south side, but both are now destroyed. At the north-east angle is a round tower; on the south-east a square one, and another of the same form on the north side, projecting from the walls. The greatest length of the northern wall, in its present state, is not above two hundred and twenty-five feet; perhaps it never was continued much further. Twenty layers of blocks are still seen in some parts of the wall, and are generally parallelograms, though the system of acute and obtuse angles, which seems to have been disused about the time of Alexander, may be occasionally remarked in this building. The date of the foundation of Phyle is unknown. Its present name is Argiro-Castro. I never heard it called Biglio- Castro, or Philis-Castro, as some have asserted.—1st Vol. 14th Chap. No. LY. THE PNYX AT ATHENS. Proceeding along the eastern foot of the Pnyx hill, we arrived at the great circular wall which is the support or buttress of the Pnyx, opposite the Areopagus: it faces the north-east. This colossal fabric, which Wheler takes for a theatre, and Spon for the Areopagus, is worthy of the builders of Mycenae and Tiryns : it is composed of large quadrilateral stones well united. The most perfect part contains three layers of stones; the largest measure twelve feet in length, and seven feet three inches in breadth; their external surface is rustic and rough, and near the joints they are ornamented with parallel lines cut all round them. These blocks are not all perfectly rectangular, nor of equal dimensions, but partake of that irregularity which is remarked in the walls built prior to the time of Pericles, resembling the south-west side of the 27 Gate of the Lions at Mycenae, the stones being nearly equilateral. This is probably one of the few antiquities which escaped the fury of the Persians, and of the last King of Macedon. Higher up the hill are the fine steps or seats cut in the rock, and the bema, from which the Athenian orators harangued the multitude. It is surprising that Pausanias should make no mention of the Pnyx, for it was one of the most celebrated Athenian tribunals: he has perhaps designated it under some other appellation. It may be the Trigonon, which he says was so called on account of its triangular form: in fact the general plan of these remains is an irregular triangle, although its supporting wall is the segment of a circle. Julius Pollux says the Pnyx was near the acropolis, and ornamented with ancient simplicity—not with the luxury of a theatre. We are informed by Plutarch that Themistocles ordered that the bema on the Pnyx should be made to face the sea; but the Thirty Tyrants afterwards placed it towards the land. The circular wall was probably built before that period, in order to support the terrace or hill upon which the tribunal was afterwards formed: it is at present called rxcacc tou A nno d*Y. 34 The lintel over the middle gate is one of the largest masses of marble I have seen, being twenty-two fee, and a half in length, four feet in thickness, and three feet three inches in breadth. It must, accordingly, weigh at least twenty-two tons The lintel of the second gate is sixteen feet ten inches in length, and three feet in th.cknes. That of the smaller gate ,s nrne feet and a half in length, and three feet in thickness.—1st Vol. Oth Chap. No. LXXI. GYMNASIUM OF PTOLEMY, AT ATHENS. AS noun distance from ,he temp, e of Theseus, on the east, are some ruins, which Spon takes for the temple of Serapis an e er or thatof Castor and Pollux, butwhich are generally supposed to be the Ptolemaion, or Gymnasium of Ptolemy said by Pausanms to be near the temple of Theseus. The foundations of this building may be traced a considemble way towards the north east, shewing that it must have been of great dimensions. The most entire part consists of a high wall, composed of twenty-live layers of marble blocks crowned with a pediment, part of which still remains. One of the blocks, facing the north, contains a mutilated inscription' that has, however, no reference to the building. Parts of the walls are constructed with alternate layers of small and largl blocks, like the pedestal of Agnppa, in the acropolis.—1st Vol. 12th Chap. The Editor regrets not having found any Te.vt to accompany the Views of Pelasgic Remains in Italy.-The Author no doubt intended writing a short account of those Ruins in Italy had he lived to superintend the present publication.'’ LIST OF PLATES VIEWS IN GREECE, WITH DESCRIPTIONS. Pace. 1 Ruins of Lycosura, in Arcadia. 2 General View of Tiryns, and the Plain of Argos 3 View of the Walls of Tiryns. 4 Pointed Gate in the West Wall of Tiryns. 5 Acropolis of Mycenae. 6 Gate of the Lions, at Mycenae. 7 Back of the Gate of the Lions. 8 Small Gate of the Acropolis of Mycenae. 9 Exterior View of the Treasury of Atreus. 10 Interior of the Treasury of Atreus. 11 Portal to one of the Treasuries at Mycenae... 12 The Plain of Argos. 13 Treasury of Minyas, at Orchomenos, in Boeotia. 14 Gate of the Acropolis of Orchomenos. 15 Walls and Tower of Orchomenos. 16 Acropolis of Chaeroneia. 17 Projecting Wall in the Acropolis of Chaeroneia. 18 Ruins of Gortys. 19 One of the Gates of Gortys, in Arcadia. 20 Plain of Thoricus, in Attica.„. 21 Ruins of a Tower at Thoricus. 22 Little pointed Gate at Thoricus. 23 Theatre at Thoricus. 24 Ruins of a Doric Building at Thoricus. 25 Ruins of an ancient City near Messalongi, in CEtolia ... 26 An Ancient Gate of the ruined City near Messalongi. 27 Pointed Gates in the ruined City near Messalongi. 28 General View of the pointed Gates. 29 Small Theatre in the above ancient City. 30 Walls of Galaxidi, the ancient iEantlie, in Ozoloea Locris 31 Gate at Agia Euphemia, in Ozoloea Locris. 32 Town of Salona, and Ruins of Amphissa, the ancient Capital of Ozoloea Locris. 33 Acropolis of Amphissa. 34 Ruins of Delphi, in Phocis. 35 View at ditto. 36 Ancient Sepulchres near Delphi. 37 The same, with the Gulf and Plain of Crissa. 3 ib. 4 5 6 ib. 7 ib. 8 9 ib. 10 11 ib. 12 ib. ib. 13 ib. 14 ib. ib. 15 16 ib. 17 ib. 18 ib. ib. 19 ib. ib. 20 ib. Page. 38 Ruins of Lilaia, in Phocis. 39 Ditto. 40 Terrace Walls and Drains of the Temple of Minerva Cranea. 41 Ruins of an ancient City in Doris 42 Ruins of Tithoroea, in Phocis .. 43 One of the Towers of Tithoroea 7 44 Acropolis of Daulia. 45 A Gate of the Acropolis of Daulia. ib. 46 Ruins of Panopius.... 47 Ruins of Haliartus, in Boeotia.. ~ 3 48 Ruins of Thisbe, in Boeotia. 49 Ruins of Platoea, in Boeotia. 50 Ditto. 51 Ruins at Gyphto-Castro, the ancient Eleutherai... 25 52 Tower and Gates at ditto. 53 Castle of Phyle, in Attica. % 54 Ditto. 55 The Pnyx at Athens. 7 56 Ruins at the Pirmus 57 Plain of Trachyuia, and Ruins of an ancient City on Mount Octa. 58 Ruins of Echinus, in Thessaly. ib. 59 Acropolis of Pbarsalia, in Thessaly. 60 Gate in the Acropolis of ditto. 61 Ruins of an ancient City, now called Aias, near the Gulf of Pagaste. 62 Ruins of Iolchos, in Thessaly.. . Ui- 63 View of Orchomenos, in Arcadia 64 Ruins of Clitor, in Arcadia .... 65 Gulf and Plain of Messenia ... 66 Exterior View of the Great Gate at Messenia. 32 67 Interior View of ditto .... 68 Ruins of Melhana, in Argolis_ ib. 69 Ancient Gate at Methana .. 70 West Front of the Great Gate of the Propylma, at Athens. 71 Gymnasium of Ptolemy, at Athens. 34 VIEWS IN ITALY. 72 Ruins of Norba in Latium. 73 A Gate at Norba. 74 Another Gate at ditto. 75 Great Gate at ditto. 76 Interior of the ditto. 77 Subterraneous Gate at Norba. 78 Great Buttress at ditto. 79 Another View of ditto. 80 Walls of Norba. 81 View of Signia. 82 Gate of Signia, called Porta Saracenica. 83 Inside of the same Gate. 84 A Subterraneous Gate at Signia. 85 Another Gate at ditto. 86 Remains of a Temple at ditto. 87 Walls of Signia. 88 Walls at Cora, and Temple of Castor and Pollux. 89 A Street and Polygon Walls at Cora. 90 Walls at ditto. 91 A Bridge at ditto. 92 Subterraneous Gate at Alatrium. 93 Great Gate at ditto. 94 Inside View of the Great Gate. 95 Another Gate at Alatrium. 96 Walls of Alatrium. 97 Polygon Walls and Roman Gate at Ferentinum. 98 Gate at Ferentinum (called Porta Sanguinaria), anc 99 Another Gate at Ferentinum. 100 Walls at Ferentinum. 101 Another View of ditto. 102 A Cavern at Mount Circoei. 103 General View of Circoei. 104 Walls of ditto. 105 Walls of Terracina. 106 Ruins of ditto. 107 Ancient Walls and Modern Gate at ditto. 108 Remains of a Temple near ditto. 109 Remains of a Bridge at ditto. 110 Aqueduct three miles from Terracina 111 Ruins of Proeneste. 112 Walls of ditto. 113 Ditto. 114 Ditto. 115 View of Sezze, the Ancient Setium. 116 Walls at Setium. 117 Ditto. 118 Ditto. 119 Remains of a Temple at ditto. 120 Ditto. 121 Walls at Bevil&cqua, near Fracasti. 122 Walls at Colonocelli, near Tivoli. 123 Walls at Vitriano, near Tivoli. 124 Walls at the Villa of Cassius, near Tivoli. 125 Walls on the Via di Casciano, near Tivoli. 126 Ditto. 127 Ancient Sepulchre near Cortona. - - - tlcult GENERAL Y1KW OF TIMSSariritiiePLAIS OF ARGO Flatt flat/.- 7 'tw SSffAL.lL 6AXE OI THE ACROfOMS .MTCKSJ. EXTERIOR. VIEW OF TEETREISIIHOFATRIIIS. TloU'Ji flat*, a f/y&il £3 TREASURY OT MYFOAS AT ORCHLOMENOS IK BOE TiA. lintvl fSfffang. 3f^37/i£'3uoJr TIaHM. GATE oftlie ACaOFOLlgof ORCHOMENOS. JPlaJfrbif. If nvj qjJITYS OZ '•'/"’’/■I fU'U THEATRE AT TBLQR1COS. PM MimOIHHOH m I&TOILIA RUINS of an ANCIENT CITYnoar S1EB SAL O GGIOH mATOLU AN ANCIENT GATE, of theBXttNl&B ClLTYnear Mf.SSALOGION Jtcvt'.:33 UU1KS at DELPHI, m FHO CIS rim SAMS s mpi 11, c ifou& *«k $■jl .ain &> orniin? «r kjub• flafo 43. rasa St SILJE of FHYLR m ATTICA X, O OS.H C XOWAHB8 ATPEITS fflatto.Sf. ACROPOLlSof PBLARSALlAm TUBS QUILJ? S. PLAIN t,r MHSS8MIA-. Fr* J U MAT U ATH'i at MMS315 . - : 3 = WEST FB GIT o£ the GREAT GATE of the FROFY.LEA at ATHESS . U'K ftYMWASI PvTBAT OATffi A.T IV OBBA Plate-. liBAT O&fB OB'* A ILj ATL 1 Sfe.J1TLTM , WALLS & BOMATT GA1B AT IIBIHTIHUM. Jlcuc 99 A1TOTMEB. GATE AT EBRBH'TJHUM JFZorft, 404 CAVJBKN AT MOVIT C URCALI. 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