EMBOSSING MADE EASY BY P. J. LAWLOR SECOND EDITION. REVISED AND ENLARGED PRICE, ONE DOLLAR MALDEN, MASS. Published by the Author 1894 Copyright, 1894, By p. J. Lawlor. PREFATORY NOTE. Recognizing the practical value of this little book, I have endeavored, in revising it for a second edition, in compliance with the author's request, to supply additional information on points which were not made sufficiently clear in the first edition. The specimen pages illustrate the adaptability of various kinds of stock in common use to the emboss- ing process, and a page has also been added showing recent type designs which lend themselves readily to this treatment. Any practical printer should be able, after a few preliminary experiments, to produce embossed work by any of the methods described in the following pages. Should further information be desired, it will be cheerfully furnished on receipt of a stamped en- velope for reply. Boston, Jicne^ 1894. 3 CONTENTS. PAGE The Female Die 9 The Male or Counter Die 12 Hard Rubber Method 12 The Clay Method 15 Leather Counter Dies 16 Papier Mache Counter Dies 18 Wax Counter Dies 20 Instructions for Making Dies 21 Cardboard Dies 21 Wood and Metal Dies 22 Zinc Dies 24 Stock, Inks, Bronzes, etc 25 Presses for Embossing 27 Hints and Suggestions 29 S EMBOSSING IS the process of raising or sinking a design by pres- sure on different materials. For general printing, such as show cards, pamphlet covers, business cards, labels, etc., the design is raised. For book covers and similar work, the design is sunk or pressed into the material, the dies being either hot or cold, accord- ing to the nature of the work. For heavy show cards, either or both methods can be used. In the old methods of embossing, both the male and female dies were made of metal, and the work was done on a screw press by hand, the process being difficult and laborious. For some purposes the color was also applied by hand, and the printing and em- bossing were done at the same operation. At the present time this method is still employed in copper- plate printing and stamping. When it was discovered, a few years ago, that em- bossing could be done on ordinary printing presses, and the male and female dies made from different materials and by simple methods, it was an easy mat- ter to extend the idea and apply it to general use. Embossmg gives style and character to printed matter as nothing else can, and every printer should at least understand the subject and the methods of producing this class of work. 7 8 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. As applied to ordinary printing, the form to be em- bossed is first printed in the usual way, with gold size and bronze, or ordinary printing ink. After the im- pression has had time to dry, the job is run through the press a second time, and the lettering or design is raised or embossed, by being forced into the emboss- ing die, by means of a counter die on the platen of press. The embossing die, or female die as it is fre- quently called, is locked up in the chase like an ordinary electrotype. The inking rollers are removed from the press, as they are not required while the embossing is being done. New and novel effects, combined with good printing, can be obtained by embossing, and utilized in a num- ber of ways with profit. During leisure hours in dull seasons, new designs can be made, to be used when needed. Any printer can, with taste, patience, and a desire to turn out novel effects, do this work after a little practice. For beauty, elegance, and striking effect, bronze embossing will always hold the highest place. Good results can be obtained by using colored inks, with less labor than attends the use of bronze. Both bronze and colors are now being extensively use^ on fashionable stationery, and the demand for embossing is largely increasing in other directions. Cold dies are used on printing presses, but emboss- ing presses are frequently made with a steam blank, or some heating attachment connected with the press, so that hot dies can be used when needed. Experi- EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 9 ments are also being made to heat dies by means of electricity ; which, if successful, will be a great im- provement over existing methods. THE FEMALE DIE. The female die, which is the one containing the de- sign cut into its surface, is made from different ma- terials. It must be cut so as to register accurately with the plate which is used in printing the design to be embossed. The materials used for making embossing dies are steel, brass, zinc, electrotypes and stereotypes, box- wood, and cardboard. For cardboard or hard paper on long runs, steel or brass dies are the best. For paper or thin cardboard and short runs, the zinc or electrotype will answer ; while for large letters or panels, the cardboard is the simplest. Steel and brass, being the most substantial, will wear the longest, at the same time retaining the fine lines and details of the die. In making these dies much of the coarser cutting is done by machinery, leaving the detail and finished surfaces to be produced by hand labor. These dies will stand a high degree of heat, which is very desirable when gold leaf or 10 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. bronze is embossed on cloth or other hard surfaces, as it gives a high poUsh to the embossed surface. Brass and steel dies are sometimes cut from a solid, type-high piece of metal, which is the most convenient, but also the most expensive method. The usual way- is to cut the dies on metal one-fourth of an inch thick, and mount them on iron bases, as explained elsewhere, when wanted for use on the press. Zinc dies are made by photographing the design on a zinc plate and then etching it. This gives only one uniform depth, and sometimes leaves a rough edge, which must be trimmed smooth ; and the die is deep- ened by hand where necessary. Zinc dies will not stand much heat, and cannot be used for the heavier kinds of embossing, like steel or brass ; yet for many purposes they will answer very well, besides being less expensive. Electrotype dies are made from designs cut in wood or other soft substances, which are then electrotyped similar to a form of type. They should have a double or triple copper face, and should be mounted on a solid body, or in the same way as regular dies. If mounted on the ordinary cored metal body, they are liable to give under pressure. The edges of an electrotype die will also round off if used on very hard stock, and the die become shallow. These dies will not stand heat, and therefore can be used only with a leather or papier- mache counter die. Properly used, however, on suit- able stock, they will meet all ordinary requirements. A stereotype die can be made from an embossed EMBOSSING MADE EASY. impression, by first filling the back with putty or plas- ter of paris, and then placing it on a stone or any smooth surface, with the face up, and fastening type- high bearers around it to hold the metal when poured in. Powder the surface with magnesia, and then pour the metal. If the die thus obtained is not deep and distinct, a little trimming with engravers' tools will make it so. The metal should be of the right tem- perature, to prevent burning the mould. This can be ascertained by dipping a piece of white paper in the metal ; when it turns a straw color, it is at the right heat. Cardboard dies can be made from any hard, solid stock, like bristol board, and are best adapted for em- bossing large surfaces, such as wood-type lines, or where a panel is desired to be represented. This method is adapted only for embossing paper or very thin cardboard. Instructions for making cardboard dies will be found elsewhere in this book. 12 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. THE MALE OR COUNTER DIE. The male or counter die, or force as it is called by some, is usually made on the press, from hard rubber, leather, cardboard, papier-mache., varnish, plaster prep- arations, sealing-wax, and various other substances. HARD RUBBER METHOD. This method is used in connection with steel or brass dies, and should not be attempted except on a regular embossing press, or for small dies on a heavily built job press. The rubber comes in sheets from one- eighth to one-fourth inches thick, and is sold by the pound. It is known as vulcanized rubber, and is black in color, brittle in texture, and can be used only with the aid of heat. A saw must be used in cutting the rubber, as it is liable to split into irregular pieces if cut with a knife. If the female die is cut in a solid type-high block, it is a simple matter to lock it up in the chase, the same as any ordinary block. In case a plate of metal is used for the die, it will be necessary to provide a cast- iron base of a thickness equal to type-high or a little less, when the die is placed on it. If heat is necessary in making the counter die, the female die must be EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 13 fastened to the iron base by screws inserted through the base from below and into the back of die, far enough to hold it firmly. This can be done by using a drill of the proper size, and a tap to form the thread for the screws in the holes in back of the die. Ma- chine screws are the proper kind to use. Iron or steel furniture, similar to the ordinary print- ers' furniture, is provided, to place around the solid block or base containing the die, and the form is locked up with metal quoins. The object of the metal furni- ture is to allow the die to be heated at any time, with- out shrinking the furniture, therefore keeping the die in the same position during the working of the job. The heating can be done over a gas stove or burner, according to the size of die, or on any kind of a stove. An impression should be taken on the packing of the press, which should consist of one or two sheets of very strong manila paper. Two or three impressions should also be taken on thin card to form the over- lays. The form is then placed on the stove for heat- ing. The degree of heat necessary can be told after a little experience. While the die is being heated, all the heavy parts of the design should be cut from the cards. The design, of course, will show white lines on a black ground. All the blacks should be cut away as much as possible. This overlay is pasted to the pack- ing on the press. On a heavy design it may require two or three overlays to bring it up properly. The rubber is then cut to the necessary size, and the back of it is scratched or roughened. Rubber cement is 14 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. then heated and quickly spread over the roughened surface, and the rubber is then placed over the impres- sion on the packing. The rollers are taken from the press, and then the form, at the proper heat, is placed in the press, and clamped in such a way that it is impossible to move the chase either way in the press. The platen is then run up to the form with enough pressure to force the rubber into the die, and allowed to remain until the die becomes cold, which will take from ten to fifteen minutes, according to the size of die. The platen can then be run back ; and if the rubber does not show the proper depth the die must be reheated, and more overlays, cut from card- board, placed under the rubber. This is continued until the rubber shows a perfect counter die. Then the edges and necessary blanks are cut away with small chisels, the gages set, and sheets fed into the press in the same way as an ordinary job. If a die is very large, considerable pressure will be necessary to force the rubber into the die, and it may require one or two persons exerting all their strength on the fly- wheel to put the press on the centre of the impression. There is also another variety of rubber called gutta percha, which is softer and more pliable than the vul- canized. It is frequently used for decorative purposes, being pressed into shape in moulds. Very little heat is required to soften it temporarily to receive the impression. It can also be softened by simply immers- ing in hot water and attaching quickly to the packing on platen of press, without heating the die. EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 15 THE CLAY METHOD. In using this process the dies are secured to a steam blank, fitted to the bed of the press. The die should be hot while making up the counter die ; but for the em- bossing less heat is required, or none at all, depending upon the character of the work. A good general rule is to keep the die just warm enough to be unpleasant to the hand. Take binders' boards, two or three different thick- nesses, and with good bookbinders' paste thoroughly saturate one of the heaviest sheets, and lay smoothly and evenly on the platen. Paste enough m this way to take a good impression of the die, which must first be slightly oiled, taking a number of impressions on each sheet until the counter is brought up and well defined. Then cut out pieces of thin boards large enough to just cover the different figures ; thoroughly saturate with diluted paste, and give each layer a num- ber of impressions as before. All portions outside of the dies, or any heavy parts inside, must be cut away in order to bring the impression heavily on the high parts, which it is desirable to bring up sharp and well defined. The work at this point may be facilitated by taking pulverized pipe-clay, or modelling-clay, liquid gum-arabic, and paste, using as follows : Take about as much paste, good thick quality, as desirable to have quantity of composition, and mix thoroughly with the dissolved gum, about one part gum to five parts paste. Then add the pulverized pipe-clay. Thoroughly mix, 1 6 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. and work it in until the mixture is as thick as putty, and will " lay " smoothly without " crawling." Too much gum will cause it to " crawl." With a flat stick or knife lay the composition on the high parts of the counter die evenly, and high in the centre, covering all high lines or fine work requiring to be brought out very sharp. Oil the die, cover the clay composition with tissue paper, and give a number of impressions until thoroughly dry and hard as glass. Any parts still low may be retouched as before ; and after long use, if the counter works down, it may be renewed, and made as sharp as at first, by simply covering the whole face of the counter, as described, with the clay composition. Do not let the machine stand on the impression if the die or blank is warm, as this will sweat the coun- ter instead of drying it. LEATHER COUNTER DIES. The best kind of leather is a sole-leather or new belting, which, when dampened and then pressed, becomes very hard and firm. Preparing the leather counter die for the press should be done as follows : The iron furniture may be used in the same way as for the hard rubber ; but it is not always necessary to heat the die for leather, and when this is not done, the ordinary wood furniture will do to lock up the die in the chase, if wide pieces are used and cut to a length which will allow their being used endwise ; that is, the EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 17 e7ids of the pieces bear against the chase and the die, the whole object being to lock up the die in such a manner that it cannot possibly move from its original position after being made ready. One sheet of hard, stout paper should be used for the packing. Pull an impression with ink on the packing. This can be done by putting a card m the packing, and removing it after taking the impression. Glue the leather over this impression, and lower the platen with the screws far enough to allow the press to go over the impression easy. Bring the platen up to the form, and let it stand on the impression for a few minutes, to force the leather into the die. Run the platen back, and if not enough pressure, put on more with the screws. Repeat the operation until deep enough. It is better to use the screws for pres- sure rather than pack the platen with card or press- board. Paste the sheet to the platen. The margin around the raised portion of the male die should be cut away to prevent marking the sheet that is being embossed. If you leave the press for any length of time, close it up on the impression just enough to keep the leather flat. If the die is unusually deep, an over- lay of card should be used under the leather, as de- scribed in the rubber process. i8 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. PAPIER-MACHE COUNTER DIES Can be used with almost any kind of die, and are pre- pared similar to a matrix for stereotyping, by pasting together several sheets of soft paper, using paste mixed with barytes, which becomes very hard when dry. Papier-mache can also be used for embossing directly from type, border, etc. For some purposes, old and discarded material which has been laid aside will give good effects. Two-color borders will answer admi- rably. Of course it is understood that it is the sunken portion in the metal which gives the raised effect on the paper. After locking up the form and placing it in the press, see that it fits tight. Make everything type-high at first by underlaying, and pull an impression in ink on the manila packing. Remove the rollers ; and after clean- ing the form, oil it slightly. Take blotting-paper, cut a httle larger than needed, and coat it evenly with glue or strong paste on one side, being careful to keep it free from lumps. Place this on the packing, and rub down smooth. Take a second piece, glue and fasten to the first, both covering a little more space than the impression. Then paste two or three sheets of tissue on the blotters, in the same way as for papicj-mache, and dust a little French chalk on the top tissue. Close up the press on the centre, and leave it in that position until dry, which will take from three to ten minutes. When opened, a perfect matrix will be found. Cut away the surplus margin of the blotter outside of the EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 19 matrix, so that nothing will show on the finished work which does not belong there. Reduce the impression as needed, set the gages, and proceed with the work. This method will do very well for short runs, but there is a chance of the packing-sheet warping or shrinking. To obviate this, the blotter can be glued directly to the surface of the platen. Another simple and very good method of making a papier-mache matrix is to mix equal quantities of mu- cilage and barytes, or dextrine and barytes, and apply it with a brush to the packing, covering with tissue paper until the required thickness is obtained. This dries quickly without the aid of heat, and becomes very hard. Another method can be followed by making the matrix in a stereotype casting-box, drying it with heat, and then placing it on the press. A matrix made in this way will last for many thousand impressions. Many experienced embossers find it preferable to make the counter dies before they are wanted for use on the press, using either the papier-mache process, or some other method. A hand-press will be found use- ful for such work, and the clamp of a paper-cutter will serve to give an impression when nothing better is available. Having the counter all ready, the best way to prepare for embossing is as follows : lock up the die and put it on the press ; make ready with black ink, being careful to obtain a firm, even impression. There should be only a thin card and two or three sheets of tough paper on the platen. Now set the 20 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. gages so that the impression strikes in the proper position, remove the rollers, wash up the press, and fit the comiter die to the female die, using a little paste to keep it in place. Cover the back with paste, and close the press, first removing enough of the packing to allow for the thickness of the counter die. When the press is opened the counter will be found trans- ferred to the platen in the proper position ; and it only remains to stretch a sheet of thin paper over the coun- ter, after which the sheets may be run through the press. If the embossed impression is not sharp enough, a little more impression may be required. Small local defects may be remedied by pasting over- lays of soft paper on top of the counter die. WAX COUNTER DIES. Sealing-wax may also be used for counters. The best grade is jeweller's wax, which is not so brittle as the ordinary sealing-wax. When used for embossing, it may be spread out on platen of press after being heated, or upon a sheet of paper, which is then pasted to the packing. The die is heated, and an impression taken in the wax. The counter may be made before putting die on the press, by melting it into the die w^hile the latter is warm. While the wax is still soft, a piece of blotting-paper can be placed over it, and then, by covering back of paper with paste, the counter die can be transferred to the platen when the die is put on the press. EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 21 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING EM- BOSSING DIES. STEEL and brass are so hard and difficult to work that they are unavailable as materials for home- made dies. The printer is therefore restricted to card- board, boxwood, or engravers' metal, and zinc. CARDBOARD DIES. We will suppose that it is desired to emboss a panel for the front page of a small folder or card. The de- sign should first be drawn on a piece of heavy card- board. Any moderately thick hard-finished stock will answer ; but the best thing for the purpose is press- board, which can be obtained from bookbinders or dealers in bookbinders' stock. Having your design laid out ready to cut, take a sharp knife and cut through the cardboard, following the lines of the de- sign. The knife should be inclined at a slight angle away from the centre. Take an old electrotype block with a solid face, that will stand pressure ; lock it up in a chase, face down- ward, then paste or glue the outer part of the card- board die to the bottom of the electrotype block. Place the inside piece in position, and secure it with a 22 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. little paste, then cover the back with paste and close the press, when it will be transferred to the platen in the proper position. (See figure i.) The dotted line shows the effect of the dies on a sheet of paper or card fed in between them. A single sheet of thin paper may be stretched over the counter die on platen, ^ and after the gages have been set the sheets may be run through, the rollers, of course, having been removed from the press before commencing operations. WOOD AND METAL DIES. For cutting these dies the printer should provide himself with several round pointed engravers' tools or gouges. The design to be embossed may be drawn on the block or plate, or a transfer may be made when the subject is a line of type or a cut. An easy way EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 23 to make a transfer is to take a fresh impression of the form, and place it face down on the block, then cover with two or three thicknesses of blotting-paper, and give it moderate pressure under the clamp of a paper- cutter, or in any other way that may be convenient. A little practice with the tools will enable almost any printer to cut out simple patterns and type lines, so as to make serviceable dies. The main point to be observed is to cut the lines smoothly and of uniform depth. Dies intended for embossing cardboard should be cut slightly deeper than those intended for paper only. Boxwood and maple are the best woods for embossing dies. Trial impressions can be taken with blotting-paper as the work progresses, enabling the engraver to test the quality of his work. Fig. 2. — Tool for cutting Dies, with Sectional View of the Most Useful Sizes. Engravers' metal blanks can be obtained from any electrotype foundry, and are less expensive than box- wood blocks for large work, but they are not so good as the latter for embossing purposes. 24 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. ZINC DIES. Dies made from zinc are usually produced by the photo-engraving process ; but this metal being some- what softer than brass, it will be found practicable to cut dies in it with the tools used for wood-engraving. It is desirable, however, to have the points of the tools ground at a slightly more acute angle for the harder metal. For photo-engraved dies, take a bronzed impression of the form you wish to emboss, on very thin paper, and send it to some photo-engraver who understands the requirements for this class of work. The die should be made direct from the proof, without being photographed in the usual way; and only two bites should be given to the plate, which should be trimmed up by hand and made deeper if necessary.^ Engravers' metal and zinc dies should be mounted on solid metal bodies in order to secure the best re- sults. Suitable bases can be made from old solid body electrotypes, sawed or shaved down to the proper thickness. Iron or brass blocks are more durable. The dies can be securely fastened to the blocks by using ordinary glue or liquid fish-glue, which is applied to both sides of a piece of thick manila paper, which is placed between die and block. To remove the die, it is only necessary to insert a knife-blade between die and block, which will split the paper, thus liberating the die. 1 Instructions for producing dies by a simple photographic process can be obtained from the author of this book for a moderate fee. EMBOSSING MADE EASY, 25 STOCK FOR EMBOSSING, INKS, BRONZES, ETC. GREAT care should be taken in the selection of stock for embossing, to obtain a quality which will stretch a little without cracking on the surface. Most wholesale paper-dealers understand the require- ments for this class of work, and the printer should profit by their advice. Linen and bond papers, good writing, and high grade mediums will be found to give satisfactory results, also bristol card stock and some grades of translucent bristols. A rough-surfaced stock will generally stand deeper embossing than one with a smooth or coated surface ; but the bronze will not take the high polish that it does on the latter. It also requires much more pres- sure to emboss, except on soft paper stock. The usual mistake with beginners is to try to emboss deeper than the stock will allow, breaking the surface, with disap- pointing results. A little care and practice will soon teach the printer the proper depth to make the dies. On this depends your success or failure. The best inks and bronzes should be used. Bronze of any color gives a good effect, from the pressure of the die, which makes it very bright, almost like gold 26 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. leaf. A very fine effect is obtained on work which has several different colors of bronze blended together on the same line or job. The colors most used are gold and silver. The more delicate colors, such as the patent blues, greens, fire, and crimson, give good re- sults in blending with each other or with gold and sil- ver. This must be done when bronzing the sheet. The simplest way is to make a few pads from plush, silk velvet, or very fine fur, drawn tight over a small block of wood large enough to be handled easily. The material can be glued or tacked on, so that the side to be used will be perfectly smooth at the edges and corners. A separate pad should be used for each color. When done in this manner, your work will be remarkable for richness and delicacy of coloring. Many colors are now being made by ink manufac- turers which rival bronze in brilliancy. These are of a very heavy body, containing a large amount of gloss varnish. When colors are used, all work should be run with a very full color, and the ink must not be al- lowed to become dry on the press, as this causes a loss of brilliancy. When an extra brilliant effect is desired, the job may be run through the press a second time, the second impression falling directly over the first. This plan is not practicable with very small type. If trouble is experienced in bronzing plated papers, the reason is that the heavy coating absorbs the size so that the bronze will not hold. Running the sheets through the press twice will remedy this trouble, allow- ing the size to dry after the first impression. The first EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 27 impression will fill up the pores in the paper, while the second will cause the bronze to hold firmly. Sometimes bronze will rub off after the size is dry, especially on steel-blue paper. This trouble is prob- ably caused by size which is thin and oily. A size should be selected which has a good body, without being so strong that it pulls the surface. Frequently this trouble is caused by reducing with improper re- ducers. PRESSES FOR EMBOSSING. EMBOSSING presses are now being built by the leading press manufacturers. They are stronger and heavier than regular job presses, as the essential requirement for this class of work is great force of im- pression, although with some of the methods which are applied to the making of the counter or male die on the platen of the press, the strain is very much re- duced. Good work can be done on any of the stan- dard job presses now in use, but embossing should not be attempted on presses without side arms. An ordinary eighth Gordon press will take a good sized die, if the male die is made from papier-mache\ and the force applied directly on the lines to be em- bossed, leaving no pressure on the blank space of the female die. If leather is used, a die not larger than 28 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. two or three inches square should be attempted on an eighth press. For a larger die, use a press in proportion. Chases that fit tight in the press will save annoyance and a great many failures in making ready. In locking up dies, care should be taken to adjust the furniture in such a way that there will be no springing or movement during the working of the job. This is essential to good register, as well as prevent- ing injury to the counter die. In all work of this kind, the utmost nicety and care- fulness should be exercised, — in the cutting of the stock to get a smooth edge to feed to the gage, and the feeding of sheets to gage every time, both in print- ing and embossing. The embossing must register exactly with the printing. While feeding the sheets, care must be taken not to feed the sheet too hard against the gage, as this will spring it away. Another source of trouble on many presses is the tendency of the nippers to move the sheet. If these do not come down and leave the sheet squarely, take them off or remove outside of the sheet, and use strings across from one nipper to the other. Quads or metal gages must always be used. Don't be discouraged at the first failure. It will re- quire a little practice, like everything else, before complete success is attained. EMBOSSING MADE EASY. 29 SUNDRY HINTS AND SUGGESTIONS. THE most suitable type for embossing is a moder- ately heavy face, with spaces between the letters, — for small type, a card; and for large type, two cards or a lead, according to size. The object of this is to allow space for the stock to stretch while under pressure, giving a good register. Type having the lines composing the face of nearly uniform thickness, like Gothic faces, gives a better effect when embossed than faces like the DeVinne, where the difference in the thickness of the lines gives an irregular appearance to the embossed impression. In order to get an accurate transfer, the form should be electrotyped, and the transfer taken from the elec- tro. If a transfer is made directly from the type-form, the chances are that it cannot be used the second time, because a form can rarely be locked up and made to fit the die exactly a second time. The lighter grades of work give the best results to the general printer. It is best to commence on small work at first, so as to get an idea of how to work, and feel your way as to the amount of pressure your press will stand without strain or injury. Many materials can be used to produce novel effects, such as a piece of coarse sandpaper for the 30 EMBOSSING MADE EASY. male die, and blotting-paper for the female die, one or the other pasted on the platen, and the opposite pasted on a block to be locked in the chase. If you know how to use the papier-mache material, and possess a stereotype press, it is an easy matter to make female dies from a good many objects that will suggest them- selves. Binders' cloth can also be used as a matrix. Many good effects can be obtained from metal dies, in which the design has been made by drilling and punching with 7^epousse tools. Matrices can also be made from the numerous small medallions which are used for ornamentation in various ways. Suggestions as to designs can hardly be made in words. One good rule is to take everything into con- sideration — stock, color, or bronze, appropriateness, etc., before commencing any embossed work. Deli- cate designs and lettering should be run in the various bronzes and dark inks, while heavy designs make a good appearance if run in delicate tints. When a die is too deep for the stock to be embossed, the surface of the paper or card is apt to crack. This can be prevented by securing a sheet of manila paper to the grippers of press. This will come between the die and sheet to be embossed, making the impression softer. Tin foil may be used on the grippers, instead of paper, if obtainable. SPECIMENS OF EMBOSSING SPECIMENS OF TYPE FACES SUITABLE FOR EMBOSSING. 24-PoiNT Rowland and Howland Open. CHRISTMAS 59 Ceremoiy mum 30-PoiNT Virile and Virile Open 24-PoiNT Erratic and Erratic Open. QUAINT Paro^er! 24-PoiNT Quaint and Quaint Open. 24-PoiNT Epitaph and Epitaph Open. KING UPQM KM 24-PoiNT Samoa. Bf ?Sht NEW PACES 36-PoiNT Makart. pecorale and Bepainis The solid and open letters shown on this page will register when printed in two colors. Sample of C. R. & Co.'s Wedding Plate Paper. SPECIMENS OF TYPE FACES SUITABLE FOR EMBOSSING. i8-F(>iiil Muluf<.nn No. BRILLIANT LETTERS ^o-l*<(iiil Johnson. Apti5ti(j 6mbo6sing '24-Fi r. K. vt Co.'s l'iirad'>.\ Cover I'iijut. Sample of C. R. & Co.'s Universal Bond.- The Specimens on this sheet illustrate an effective method of working ordinary' stock cuts with white letters on a solid ground. A block is cut to fit the lettering, which is printed in bronze, and embossed, the cut itself being worked in a tint. A piece of sandpaper was used for embossing stippled ground around the Menu cut. The raised, panel for lower cut was embossed with cardboard dies. Either cut on this sheet furnished complete with embossing die for $1.50. Sample of C. R. & Co.'s Litho. Plate Paper. This sheet illustrates the application of embossing ordinary stock cuts. The die was cut in zinc by hand. A wooden die would answer equally well if a limited number only were required Sample of C. R. & Co.'s Universal Bond. --Azure. Sample )t' <.'. K. A (^o.'s Universal Boud Paper. The medallion die at top of ' this sheet was made by pouring melted type metal over a brass-ornament. The border was embossed direct from a strip of wood border, which cnn be obtained in a large variety of faces from wood tj'pe manufacturers. The fancy ornament at bottom of page' was embossed with a v.'ooden die. Sample of C. R & Co.'s XXX Emerald Laid Antique. TYPE fOUHPERS' CO. Branches in all principal cities. Make 90 per cent, of the Display Type made in U. S. Dealers in Printers' Hachinery and flaterials. Complete Outfits at Special Prices. New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, Milwaukee, Cincinnati, Baltimore, Buffalo, Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Kansas City, St. Paul, Omaha, Denver, San Francisco, Portland, Oregon. General Offices : Cor. Duane and Rose Sts., New York City. C. J. PETERS & SON, Electrotypers and ^'^^ Photo=Engravefs, 145 HIGH ST., BOSTON, MASS. EMBOSSING DIES A SPECIALTY. Send 25 cents for lOO-page Catalogue of Stock Cuts. Dies kept in stock for many of these cuts. HAMILTON MFQ. CO. TWO RIVERS, WI5. MANUFACTURERS OF . . . Wood Type, Cases, Stands, Cabinets, etc. The strongest and most handsomely finished Printers' Furniture made. SEND FOR CATALOGUE. Solid Rock Maple for Embossing Dies; lo square inches, or over, by mail, 2c. per inch. Orders of 500 inches, or more, ic. per square inch. Useful Hints on Imposition. A RRANGED by a practical pressman, and giving a ^ series of new diagrams of imposition never before published, and suited to all kinds of work. It also gives a number of valuable double form impositions for pamphlet work, which may be printed, folded, stitched, and covers put on before cutting apart. All these dia- grams are guaranteed to fold correctly, and without turning the sheet. Also the broad way of folding, both single and double, and to read down from page to page, both single and double. Price, SOc. With "Embossing Made Easy," $1.25. P. J. L.AWLOR, . . A\2iIe HASTINGS CARD CO., (limited) 26 BEEKHAN STREET, NEW YORK CITY, Wbo rD2iHe 2i 5peci2ilty of Erpbos^ed Cov- ers, ap^I of c2ire trzicle upop appHczitioo.