^-N , i ■ ^ . ' A ■ ^ .^t» I SBfc^ 'r^'’^jPVw’ ...V) y«.w’; ’'X'''!';'* .j -.v :•<.'♦tv ■ ■■.' '.aiii. .- ..Tfi"" > ■ > , W; ^.’vv^^r;J4 '•• ;f, f' J ' ’’■" ffc /ii i<’*’’'.-*> o> ■’ j» Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2018 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/itinerariumcurio12stuk 1 W^'-STUKELEY Swi/’/rt/ ^e/m ■ f ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM: O R, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANTIQUITIES, AND RE MARKABLE CURIOSITIES . I n' NATURE OR A R T, OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN. ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES. CENTURIA I. THE SECOND EDITION, WITH LARGE ADDITIONS. V By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M. D. F. R. & A. S. O Patria^ O Divum domus-, Albion, hiclyta bello I O quam te memorem, quantum juvat ufque morari Mirarique tucz fpe^acula plurima terrae I LONDON: Printed for Meffrs. Baker and Leigh, in York-Street, Covent-Garden. M .DCC.LXXVI. / • PREFACE. ^ I intent of this Treatife is to oblige the curious in the I Antiquities of Britain : it is an account of places and things from infpedlion, not compiled from others’ labours, or travels in one’s ftudy. I own it is a work crude and hafly, like the notes of a traveller that Bays not long in a place ; and fach it was in reality. Many matters I threw in only as hints for further fcrutiny, and memorandums formyfelf or others : above- all, I avoided prejudice, never carrying any author along with me, but taking things in the natural order and manner they pre- fented themfelves: and if my fentiments of Roman ftations, and other matters, happen not to coincide with what has been wrote before me; it was not that I differ from them, but things did not fo appear to me. The prints, befide their ufe in illii- flrating the difcourfes, are ranged in fuch a manner as to become an index of inquiries for thofe that travel, or for a Britifh An¬ tiquary. I fhall probably continue this method at reafonable intervals. The whole is to invite Gentlemen and others in the country, to make refearches of this nature, and to ac¬ quaint the world with them : they may be aflured, that what¬ ever accounts of this fort they pleafe to communicate to me, they fhall be applied to proper ufe, and all due honour paid to the names of thofe that favour me with a correfpondence fo much to the glory and benefit of our country, which is my foie aim therein. It is evident how proper engravings are to preferve the me¬ mory of things, and how much better an idea they convey to the mind than written defcriptions, which often not at all, oftener not fufficiently, explain them: befide, they prefent us with the pleafure of obferving the various changes in the face of nature, of countries, and the like, through the current of time and viciffitude of things. Thefe embellifhments are the chief deji- derata of the excellent Mr. Camden’s Brita?tnia^ and other writers of this fort,3vhofe pens were not fo ready to deliver their a fentiments PREFACE. fentiments in lines as letters : and how hard it is for common artificers to draw from mere defcription, or to exprefs well what they underfiand not, is obvious from our engravings in all fciences- I am fenfible enough, that large allowances mufi; be made for my own performances in this kind, and fome for the artificers parts therein, who, for want of more pradice in fuch works, cannot equal others abroad. I know not whether it will be an excufe, or a fault, if I fhould plead the expedition I ufed in the drawing part; but I may urge, that a private per- fon, and a moderate fortune, may want many ufeful afiiftants and conveniences for that purpofe. It is enough for me to point them out to fhow things that are fine in themfelves, and want little art to render them more agreeable, or that deferve to be better done; or any way to contribute toward retrieving the noble monuments of our anceftors; in which cafe only, we are behind other the learned nations in Europe. It is not that we have a lefs fund of curiofities than they, were the defcrip¬ tion of them attempted by an abler hand, and more adequate cxpence. Two or three of the plates are inferted only as heads, being not referred to in the difcourfe, as Tab. VIII. the ground-plot of the ruins of Whitehall. I myfelf never faw the palace, but was pleafed that I chanced to take this draught of its ruinous ichnography, but the very week before totally deftroyed. Thus much I thought owing to the venerable memory of that name, which is ever the word at fea with Britifh fhips, and which makes the whole world tremble. 'I'ab. X. is an ancient feal of the bifhops of Norwich.'^' This plate the learned and curious Mr. le Neve, Norroy king at arms, lent me out of his good will to promote the work ; the feal is remarkable for having letters upon the edge, reprefented in the empty ringlet; the manner of it is like our milled money; but how it was per¬ formed in wax, is not eafy to fay. Tab. XV. was likewife lent me by Mr. Norroy abovefaid. I defign always, in thefe col- ledlions of mine, to infert one plate in a hundred, of fome per- fon’s that has deferved well of the antiquities of Britain: it The late John Ives, Jun. Efq ; of Great Yarmouth, F. R. Sc A. S. who was pnflelTed or thele Piates, kindly lent that of Sir Plenry Spelman for this Edition: the other was re-engraved before the Editor knew in wdaofe pofieflion they W'cre. llllllll.M. 1 ' c/ie ^ 0/u/:i/za/^-> k^uzkli /4. /^/6^. 77 '^‘'''0t,.'.4jry,.'p def ■ L ^ V’.’' ■ J . i:' -I'V ■ l< : f -- ; ' h - ' .• • 1Liii: ■ :■■■)( • <• ..'■i; ‘ ' ■■ V .J. N •; - r. • .. ■( ■ v:'’=r. •.).•■ " . v<' '' .■ f ■ ', - ' ■ ■■ 'r::- . r • ■ .{• • ...' \ ''•At s. ■ '4 v’ ■-■•i , ■ t '• ' 1 - I;' « i J .-■'i ■ A • . t- j i !• / : ‘i. r- / i. ' * Can Her def • PREFACE. it is but a juft piece of gratitude to their memory. Tab. XL. (the Greek visw at Athens) I took from an original drawing in Mr. Talman’s collection. I have fome more of that fort: though they relate not to Britain, I do not fear the reader will be dif- pleafed with me on that account. How much rather ought we to lament the fcarcity of fuch I What noble monuments of Greece are funk into eternal oblivion, through want of Drawing in travellers that have been there in great numbers, or for want of encourao;cment to thofe that are able ! With what regret do I O O mention that moft beautiful temple of Minerva in the citadel of Athens, without difpute the ftneft building upon the globe, a 7 ino 1694! that year it was cafually blown up with gun¬ powder, -and not a drawing*of it preferved. The laft plate, of the great conjunction of the five planets, I added as an cera of my book. This memorable appearance, becaufe it affeCted not the vulgar like a folar eclipfe, was almoft negleCled by the learned. I had a mind to do it juftice by printing the type of it from the diagram fent me by tlie great Dr. Halley. For my part, 1 congratulate myfelf for living in an age fruitful of thefe grand phaenomena of the celcftial bodies, and am pleafed, that beftde the total eclipfe 1715, we have in the fpace ol two years this great conjunClion, a tranftt of Mer¬ cury acrofs the fun, a comet, the laft eclipfe of the fun, and in March next another great conjunction. The numerous plates I have given the reader, of ground-plots and profpeCts of Roman cities, I thought contributed much to¬ wards fixing their ftte, and preferving their memory: they may be ufeful to curious inhabitants, in marking the places where antiquities are tound from time to time, and in other refpeCts. There are fome few errors of the prefs efcaped me, notwith- ftanding all my care; but none, I think, of any confequence. I have taken care to make the Index as inftruCfing as I could, 'fhe title of Roman roads belongs to fuch as are anonymous, or not commonly taken notice of: that of Romajt corns points to fuch places as are not Roman towns, or particularly defcribed. Ktymology includes only fuch words as are fcattered cafually in the work, or matters that are not comprehended under any other head ; and fo of the reft. One general obfervation I have made within the fliort fpace of time my travels were limited to, that hufbandry, grazing, cuL tivation of wafte lands, all forts of trades and manufactures, towns and cities, are hugely improved ; and efpecially the mul¬ titude PREFACE. titude of inhabitants is increafed to a high proportion : the reafon of it is not difficult to be gueffed at. What I ffiall next trouble the reader withall, will be my in¬ tended work, of the hiftory of the ancient Celts, particularly the hrft inhabitants of Great Britain, whieh for the moft part is now iiniffied. By what I can judge at prefent, it will conlift of four books in folio. I. The hiftory of the origin and pafiage of the Celts from Afta into the weft of Europe, particularly into Britain ; of their manners, language, &c. II. Of the religion, deities, priefts, temples, and facred rites, of the Celts. III. Of the great Celtic temple at Abury in Wiltfhire, and others of that fort. IV. Of the celebrated* Stonehenge. There will be above 300 copper plates of a folio ftze, many of whieh are already engraven ; and many will be of mueh larger dimenfions. Upon account, therefore, of the vaft expence attending this work, I ffiall print no more than are fubfcribed for; the money to be paid to me only. Thus much I thought fit to advertife the friendly reader. Ormond-Jlreet^ 26 Dec, 1724. G U L I E rntBugOMBmemems GU LIELMO STUKELEY, M. D. Amicus Amico, &c. L JJbrica Roma?!! dum 'Tu monumenta pererras Nominis, & tacito faecula lapfa pede : Dodte opijex, variis feii vim fermonibus addas. Seu placet artifici pagina pidla manu ; ^.anta vetuftatis fummae miracula promis, Obrutaque indigno moenia celfa Jitu ! Vindice Te, fofjas video procedere longas. Per loca confiratujn devia ducit iter. Nunc via fublimi confcendit vertice ino7ites. Flumina declivis Jiimc per aperta ruit. Caftra quot hnmenfo retegis cofiftrudla labore ? Ft tua non finit ars oppida pojfe mori. Hic 7nira antiquae pende7it C07npagi7ie portae. Hic tremulo fulget lumine grata pharos. Celfior exfurgit chartis Roma72a potefias Clara tuis ; idtro efi fajfa ruina decus. Ecce iterum mgenti pa7idunt curvamme fedes. Et plaufu refonant amphitheatra novo. Roma t7'iu7nphato ja7ndudum la77guida 7nundo Nequicquam invidla7n fe fuperefje dolet. Nec te dira cohors 7norboru7n fola tre777ifcit, Aji tempus medicas fentit inerfne ma7ius. ^ia77tum Roma tibi, quaiitum Brittannia debet. 0 ingens patriae,. Romulidu7nque decus ! Accipe Phoebea, merito dignijjime lauro. Sint, qua das aliis, faecula fera tibi. 1. S, GULIELMO STUKELEY, M D. &c. EC fola efi medicina Tui, fed Apolline digna7n Artem om72em recolis, mente, manuque potens. Non modo rejiituis fenio 772orbifque gravatos. Ad vitam reddis fecla fepulta diu. Te Linde72fis ager gefiit celebrare nepotem, ^ceque dedit, patria lu7nina grate refers. G E O R. LY N N, Interior. Tempi. Soc. In [ vili ] In Itinerarium Ciiriofiim amici fui cliariffima viri dofliffimi & Cl. Domini Gulielmi Stukeleii M. D. CML. SRS. & Antiquar. Secretar. O 'Jane bifrons ! 'Temporis inclyte Vindex remoti^ de juperis 'oidins Poji terga fohis, nunc adejlo et Egregium tue are amicum Opufque. templi janua Jit tui Serata^ dum ex his nojlra quietior Difcat juventus, quid avorum Indomita potuere dextra. ^icquid Britannus ferre recufans Pervile collo Romulidum jugum, Terra fua contentus egit. Artibus ingenitis beatus. ^icquid ^i rites gentibus afperis Cultu renidens tradere providi : ViBoriam, Mufafque & artes. Arma Jimid rapiente dextra. Nec veflra omittit pagina Saxonem Sicd timendum, relligionibus Valde revinBum : bellicofs Horribilemve Dacum carinis. Nec tu recondis faB a flent io Eradar a Nonnanni immemor inclyti-, piorum omnium ef imbutus Anglus Sanguine, moribus, & vigore. Slua mira doBus condidit artijex Excelfa prifci mcenia fecidi, ^a jirata, pontes, templa, cafra. Amphitheatra, afarota, turres l Plaudit Jibi jam magna Britannia Antiqua Jplendet gloria denuo. Chartis refurgit Stivecleji Celfa canens iterum triumphos. MAUR. JOHNSON, J. C. Interioris Templi Soc. mdccxxiv. In Stukelejanas Antiquitates. D EperdiiorUm rejlitutor Temporum Et veritatis in tenebris abdita Scrutator eruditus, arte qua mira valet l Retegit vetufium qidcquid objciiro fmu Abfcondit ALvum. Tempus, hic aciem tua Falcis retundit invidam : frujlra omnia Comples ruinis, jam tua pereunt mina. Jpfa perire nam ruina nejiiunt. M. M. [ ix ] Ad Itinerarii Curiosi auflorem. Q uantum Roma tibU et Romana Britannia debet-, Ingenui Vates, Vir celebrande, canant. Me nec Roma fnodos Juaves, nec Celtica tellus Arguta docuit jiringere jila lyra. Muneris hoc igitur vani cur hybrida tentem Normannus, Cimber, Saxo, Britannus ego ? Mufa negat. Natura negat, Jed fuggerit unus ^laliacunque poteji carmina nojier Amor. Gratulor inceptum tibi nobile, gratulor illis. Inter quos nomen glorior ejje meum : ^i patria prifcas arteis, loca, nomina, ^ ipfas Relliquias fandia relligione colunt ; dluo brevis ojiendis conchifus limite campi. Limite quam nidlo clauditur ingenium, dluoque tuos fenfus permulcet amore Vetustas, S>ui nullos cafus, ardua ntdla Jugis. Per jdlebras afp'ras, per tortas ambitio7ies. Et cacos calles, improbe, cafpis Iter. Stagna lacufque inter, limojdque pafcua Lindi, Romana explorans avia /irata via. Hic ubi forte dolens, pelagi tot jugera redlor /Equoris herbof non fua, rapta tenet. Plura quide?n t£?iuit, jedjifjit Jupiter acres Marti genas patrui vim cohibere fui. Haud fecus ac jufjifaciunt, partemque receptam Terreni, ut par ef, aquoris ej/e jubent. Cater a raptori qua 7mnc inanet Ennofigao, Si quibus efi armis, ef repetenda tuis, dlui terra pelagique adeo declivia monfras. Et qiib pracipites Nereus urget equos : Tanta mathematicis fe tollit gloria vefra Artibus ; at numeris grandior ilia meis. Me rapit addidlum veterum admiratio rerum, Plendque deliciis pagina quaque filis. Tu monumenta pius, monumentis adjiruis ipjis. Perdita qua fuerant, poffe perire vetans. Eluid referam quantum tibi debet Ciaficus audior, ^li prijeas urbes, cafrdque prifia doces ? Mercator Jiccis quarens adamantas in oris. Non tam condudiam verfat avarus humum, Epuam tu cmn nummos, urnas, & cater a Jigna Antiqua effodias indubitata nota. No?7iina, qua fuerant oli/n, Romana reducis. Perdita rejlituens, obfolefadla novoms. Nec te, antiquarum tam mira peritia vociun ef. Fallunt Teut077ici, barbaricique j'o72i, Hiforia7n qiia/itufn decoras, f dicere velle7n, Hiforiarn videar /c7'ibere, non literas. Tu [ ^ ] 'Ju das p7-aieritis veluti prcefentlbiis utd Et redeunt feriptis fcada lapja tuis. Detrahis ancipiti yano mirabile n.onf.nr,n^ ELt redla facie cernere cundla jubes. Sed dum commendo tua^ carmine digna Maronis. Ingenii culpa detci^o, feripta, mei. Macte tua virtute eflo., patriamque quotannis Eluo pede ccepijli demere are. Vale. R. AINSWORTH. lo Dr. Stukeley, upon his Itinerarimii Curiojum. I J AIL, Baxter lives ! in each deferiptive page Are fcen the labours of the Roman age: What ere the Tons of Rome or Albion knew, We here difeern at one compendious view. Thus taught we pafs the Caledonian flood, Or fertile plains that fmile from Cimbric blood : Where Vaga’s ftreams glide murmuring near the tomb, (Darkfcme recefs) where mighty Chiefs of Rome C Have flumber’d ages in its filent gloom ; y Where airy lamps the diftant failor guide. Or where the labour’d arch deceives the tide : V/here Geta kept the Belgic youth in awe. Or where Papinian gave the Roman law. Pleas’d I behold Sabrina’s filver ftream. Or hear the murmurs of the doubtful Teme. With you, methinks, from Cred’nil I furvey Th’ important conflidf of the furious day : See, fee ! Frontinus fierce in armour fliine, Where the war burns upon the vale of Eigne. Here on the plains of Aricon we learn Life’s various period from the peaceful urn. Yon hoary Druids pray celeftial aid. Where facred oaks diftufe a folemn fhade ; Each branch afpiring to the blefl: abode Lifts up the vows of Britain to the God. Go on, my friend ! the curious theme purfue, The myftic feenes of early time review, C And tell Britannia, Baxter lives in you. \ JAMES HILL, J.C. Middle-Tdcmpki Londonj Dec. i. 1724. I T I- S ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, &c. ITER DOMESTICUM. I. 7, fuge, fed poteras tutior effe domi. Mart. fo MAURICE JOHNSON, Jun. Efq. Bartdfitt' at Law of the Inner-Temple. T he amity that long fubfifted between our families giving birth to an early acquaintance, a certain famenefs of difpolition, particularly a love to antient learning, advanced our friendfhip into that confidence, which induces me to prefix your name to this little fummary of what has occurred to me worth mentioning in our native country, HOLLAND, in Lincolnfiiire but chiefly intended to provoke you to purfue a full hiffory thereof, who have fo large a fund of valuable papers and coiledtions relating thereto, and every qualification neceliary for the work. 7hat thefe memoirs of mine are fo fliort, is becaufe fcarce more time than that of childhood I there fpent, and when I but began to have an inclination for fuch enquiries : that the refl which follow are grown to fuch a bulk as to become the prefent volume, is owing to my refidence at London. Great as are the advantages of this capital, for opportunities of ftudy, or for the beft converfation in the world, yet I fliould think a confinement to it infupportable, and cry out with the poet, Irrvideo vobis agros, formofaque prata. I envy you your fields and paftures fair. which engages me to make an excurfion now and then into the coun¬ try : and this is properly taking a review of pure nature; for life here may be called only artificial, efpecially when fixed down to it; like the gaudy entries upon a theatre, where a pompous cliaradter is fupported for a little while, and then makes an exit foon forgotten. My anceflors, both paternal and maternal, having lived, from times immemorial, in or upon the edges of our marlhy level, perhaps gave me that melancholic difpo- fition, which renders the bufllings of an adfive and fliowy life difagree- able. The fair allurements of the bufinefs of a profeflion, whicli have been in my road, cannot induce me wholly to forfake the (weet recelles of contemplation, that real life, tliat tranquillity of mind, only to be B met 2 I T E R I. ir.et with in proper folitude ; where I might make the moft of the pittance of time allotted by Fate, and if polfible doubly over enjoy its fleeting fpaCe. I own a man is born for his country and his friends, and that he ought to ferve them in his befl: capacity; yet he confeifedly claims a fhare in himfelf: and that, in my opinion, is enjoying one’s felf; not, as the vulgar think, in heaping up immoderate riches, titles of honour, or in empty, irrational pleafures, but in fioring the mind with the valuable treafures of the knowledge of divine and human things. And this may in a very pro¬ per fenfe be called the ftudy of Antiquities. Ofthcfliuly 1 need not make an apology to you for that which fome people of terrelfrial Antiqui- think to be a meagre and ufelefs matter; for truly what is this ftudy, ' but fearching into the fountain-head of all learning and truth ? Some antient pl'.ilofophers have thought that knowledge is only reminifcence. If we extend this notion no further than as to what has been faid and done before us, we fliall not be miftaken in aflerting that the paft ages bore men of as good parts as we : enquiry into their thoughts and actions is learning ; and happy for us if we can improve upon them, and find out things they did not know, by help of their own clue. All things upon this voluble globe are but a fucceflion, like the ftream of a river : the higher you go, the purer the fluid, lefs tainted with corruptions of prejudice or craft, with the mud and foil of ignorance. Here are the things themfelves to ftudy upon; not words only, wherein too much of learning has con- fifted. If we examine into the antiquities of nations that had no writing among them, here are their monuments: thefe we are to explore, to ftrike out their latent meaning; and the more we reafon upon them, the more reafon lhall we find to admire the vaft fize of the gigantic minds of our predeceffors, the great and Ample majefty of their works, and wherein mainly lies the beauty and the excellence of matters of antiquity. But more efpecially it is not without a happy omen, that the moderns have exerted themfelves in earneft, to rake up every duft of paft times, moved by the evident advantages therefrom accruing, in the underftanding their invaluable writings, which have efcaped the common fliipwreck of time. It is from this nicthod we muft obtain an accurate intelligence of thoie principles of learning and foundations of all fcience: it is from them we advance our minds immediately to the ftate of manhood, and with¬ out them the world 5000 years old would but begin to think like a child. Nothing more illuftrates this than looking into the comments that were wrote upon them 200 years ago, voluminous enough, but barba¬ rous, poor, and impertinent, when compared to the folid performances of learned men fince, whofe heads were enriched with an exact learch into the cuftoms, manners and monuments of the writers. Hence it is, that hiftory, geography, mathematics, philofophy, the learned profefAons, law, divinity, our own faculty, and the mufes in general, flourilh like a frelh garden richly watered and cultivated, weeded from rubbifli of logo¬ machy and barren muftirooms, gay with thriving and beautiful plants of true erudition, inoculated upon the ftocks of the antients. ry'DRiTAiN if ruminating upon antiquities at home be commendable, travelling at home for that purpofe can want no defence; it is ftill coming nearer the lucid fpi'ings of truth. The fatisfadfion of viewing realities has led infinite numbers of its admirers through the labours and dangers of itrange coun¬ tries, through oceans, immoderate heats and colds, over rugged mountains, barren lands and deferts, A.va inhabitants, and a million of perils; anci ■the world is Ailed with atcou.ds of them. We export yearly our own treafures I T E E I. treafures into foreign parts, by the genteel and falhionable iotirs of France and Italy, and import fhip-loads of books relating to their antiquities and hiflory (it is well if we bring back nothing worfe) whilft our own country lies like a negle6fed province. Like untoward children, we look back with contempt upon our own mother. The antient Albion, the valiant Britain, the renowned England, big with all the bleflings of indulgent nature, fruitful in ffrengths of genius, in the great, the wife, the magnanimous, the learned and the fair, is poftponed to all nations. Her immenfe wealth, traffic, induftry j her flowing flreams, here fertile plains, her delightful elevations, pleafant profpedts, curious antiquities, flourifhing cities, com¬ modious inns, courteous inhabitants, her temperate air, her glorious fhow of liberty, every gift of providence that can make her the envy and the defirable miftrefs of the whole earth, is flighted and difregarded. You, Sir, to whom I pretend not to talk in this manner, wtII know that I had a defire by this prefent work, however mean, to roufe up the fpirit of the Curious among us, to look about them and admire their native furniture: to fliow them we have rarities of domeftic growth. What I offer them is an account of my journeyings hitherto, but little indeed, and with expedition enough, with accuracy no more than may be expedfed from a traveller; for truth in every particular, I can vouch only for my own fliare, ftrangers luuA: owe fomewhat to informations. I can afl'ure you I endeavoured as much as poflible not to be deceived, nor to deceive the reader. It was ever my opinion that a more intimate knowledge of Britain more becomes us, is more ufeful and as worthy a part of education for our young nobility and gentry as the view of any tranfma- rine parts. And if I have learnt by feeing fome places, men and manners, or have any judgment in things, it is not impoffible to make a claffic journey on this fide the ftreights of Dover. Thus much at lead I thought fit to premlfe in favour of the fludy of antiquities. And with particular deference to the fociety of Britifh Anti¬ quaries in Loi'idon, to whom I remember with pleafure you firil: intro¬ duced me: fmee for fome time I have had the honour of being their fecre- tary ; to them 1 beg leave to confecrate the follov/ing work. To the right honourable the Earl of Hartford the illuftrious and worthy Prefident, the right honourable the Earl of Winchelfea, Peter le Neve, efq; Roger Gale, efq; the illuftrious and worthy Vice-prefidents, and to the learned Members thereof. Then, left I fhould fall under my own cenfure palled upon others, that know leaft of things neareft them, I fhall deliver my thoughts about the hiftory of Holland before mentioned, which may ferve as a Ihort comment upon the map of this country which I publiflied laft year, with a purpofe of affifting the gentlemen that are commiffioners of fewers there, though it is of fuch a bulk as cannot conveniently be inferted into this volume. If we call our eyes upon the geography of England, we muft obferve that much of the eaftern fhore is flat, low ground, whilft the weftern is fteep and rocky. This holds generally true throughout the globe as to its great parts, countries or iflands, and likewife particularly as to its little ones, mountains and plains. I mean, that mountains are fteep and abrupt tothe weft,*efpecially the north-weft, and have a gentle declivity eaftward or to the fouth-eaft, and that plains ever defeend eaftward. I wonder very much that this remark has never been made. I took notice of it in our own country, almoft btfore I * Cum perpetui fere & afperrimi montes Tint verfus occafum.— Baxter! Gloffarium, voce Otodini. ITER I. I had ever been out of it, in the univerfal declivity of that level eaftward, in thofe parts v/here it did not by that means regard the ocean ; particu¬ larly in South Holland, or the w'apentake of Elho : the natural defcent of water therein is not to the fea, as the rivers run, but diredtly eaftward, and that very confiderable. Befide, the current of every river is lower as more eaftward: thus the Welland is higher in level than the Nen, the Nen than the Oufe 5 and probably at hrft both emptied themfelves by the Oufe or Lyn river as moft eaftward. I obferved in June 1732, that the Peterborough river Nen would willingly difeharge itfelf into Whitlefea mere, and fo to the Oufe at Lyn, if it were not hindered by the ftuice at Horfey bridge by the river Nen. I fee no difficulty to attribute the reafon of it to the rotation of the globe. Thofe that have gone about to demonftrate to US that famous problem of the earth’s motion, have found out many mathe¬ matical and abftracted proofs for that purpofe, but negledled this which is moft fenfible and before our eyes every minute. It is a property of mat¬ ter, that when whirled round upon an axis^ it endeavours to fly from the axis^ as we fee in the motion of a wheel, the dirt and loofe parts are thrown the contrary way in a tangent line. This is owing to the natural inactivity of matter, which is not eahly fufceptible of motion. Now at the time that the body of the earth was in a mixt ftate between folid and fluid, before its prefent form of land and fea was perfedfly determined, the almighty Artift gave it its great diurnal motion. By this means the elevated parts or mountainous tradls, as they confolidated whilft yet foft and yielding, flew fomewhat w^ftward, and fpread forth a long declivity to theeaft; the fame is to be faid of the plains, their natural defcent tending that way, and, as I doubt not, of the fuperfice of the eai th below the ocean. This critical minute is fublimely deferibed by the admirable poet and obferver of nature, Namque canehaf, uti magnum per inane coaBa Semina terrarumque., animaeque^ marifque juijjent^ Et liquidi fimiil ignis. Ut bis exordia primis Omnia^ & ip(e tener mundi concreverit orbis. Eum durare fohim & difeludere ner e a ponto Cceperit, & rerum paulatim fumere Jormas. Virg. Ecl. vi. which may thus be engliflied. He fang, how from the mighty void, in one Large ipace, collecfed were the fluid feeds Of earth, air, fea and fire; from thefe came all. The callow^ world became one maffive globe j The ocean by the hard’ning ground disjoin’d. New forms fuspris’d the beauteous face of things. The truth of this obfervation I have feen univerfally confirmed in all my travels, and innumerable inftances of it will occur to the reader throughout thefe difcouiies. I defign another time profeifedly to treat of it in a phi- lofophical way. But confequent to this dodtrine it is that we have fo large a quantity of this marfliland in the middle of the eaftern fhore of England, feeming as if made by the walhings and eluvies of the many rivers that fall that wav, fuch as the Welland, the Witham, the Nen, the Oufe great and little, together with many other ftreams of inferior note. Theie all empty themfelves into the great bay fjrmed between the Lincolnflnre wolds and cliffs of Norfolk» called by Fto.emy Mentaris ajluarium, as rightly corrected I. 5 ITER corrected by Mn Baxter, feeing it is compofed of the mouths of fo many rivers; Meni, or Manf, fignifying oflium in the Britifh language. Behde the great quantity of high and inland country that difcharges its waters this way, even as far as Fritwell in Oxfordfhire; all the level country lies before it, extending itfelf from within fome few miles of Cambridge fouth, to Keal hills near Bolingbroke in Lincolnfhire north, about fixty miles long, known by the names of the lile of Ely, Holland and Marfhland. This country, fince the flood, I believe was much in the fame ftateasat prefent, and for its bulk the richeft fpot of ground in the kingdom j once well inha¬ bited by gentry, efpecially the religious. I apprehend the more inland part of it, the Ifle of Ely, Deeping Fen, &c. was not in diftant ages in fo bad a condition as now, becaufe the natural drainage of it was better, before the fea had by degrees added fo much folid ground upon the coafts. In this country I have obferved abundance of old Welfli words left among Hollani», us; and I am perfuaded that the name of Holland is derived from that language, though now terminated by a later word, as is frequent enough. It fignifies no more than fait or marfli land, fuch as is gained from the fea; and to this day v/e call the marfhes adjoining to, and fometime overflowed by the fea, fall marjhes. Likewife upon the fea fliore they formerly made fait in great abundance. The hills all along upon the fea bank, the remains of fuch works, are ftill called fait hills: fuch are at Fleet, Holbech, Golberton, Wainflet,* 5 cc. Many names of rivers and roads, thence derived, remain ftill, fuch as Salters Lode, Salteney Gate, &c. Halit in the Britifli is falfus, fait, as xm in the Greek is mare, the fea 3 and moft evidently borrowed from the Britifli, becaufe of its moft notorious quality. The adjoining part of this country in Norfolk, is called marfh land, in the very fame fenfe: fo is Zeland and Holland at the mouth of the Rhine, v/here our Cimbric anceftors once lived. In the Cimbric Cherfonefs, now Denmark, is Halland, a divifion of the country by the Saxons called Halgo land. Vid. Spelman’s Glaflary, voce Scirmges heal. Holfatia, Holftein, &c. and our Holdernefs in Yorkfliire, muft thus be underftood. Hence the ifle of Ely too is denominated, the very word hell being falfugo in the Britilh. This, in the moft antient Britifli times, was as much marfli land as our wapentake of Elho is now, which acknowledges the fame original j hoe fignifying a parcel of high ground. We may be allured that this whole country was well inhabited by the p.^n antient Britons, and that as far as the fea coafts, efpecially the illets and utants the higher parts more free from ordinary inundations of the rivers, or though Britons. not imbanked above the reach of the fpring tides; for the nature of this place perfedlly anfvvered their guflo, both as affording abundant pafturage lor their cattle, wherein their chief fuftenance and employment confifted, and in being fo very fecure from incurfion and depredations of war and troublefome neighbours, by the difficult fens upon the edge of the high country. Here I have not been able to meet with any remains of them, except it be the great quantity of tumuli, or barrows, in all thefe parts 3 fcarce a parifli without one or more of them. They are generally of a very con- fiderable bulk, much too large for Roman 3 nor has any thing Roman been difcovered in cutting them through 3 though, a few years ago, two or three were dug quite away near Bofton, and another at Frampton, to make brick of, or to mend the highways. I guefs thefe were the high places of .worfliip among our Cimbrian predecelfors, purpofely caft up, becaufe there C are * At Hall, by Infpruck, falt-rocks, fays Mr. Addifon in Ids Italian Travels. 6 I T E II 1. are no natural hills in thefe parts; and we knov^ antiquity affefted places of elevation for religious rites. No doubt, fome are places of fepulture, efpe- cially fuch as are very frequent upon the edges of the high countries all around, looking dov/n upon the fens. Hither feem to have been carried the remains of great men, whofe habitations were in the marfhy grounds, who chofe to be buried upon higher ground than where they lived j as is the cafe all over England; for the timiuU are commonly placed upon the brink of hills hanging over a valley, where doubtlefs their dwellings were. Romans. But when the Romans had made confiderable progrefs in reducing this ifland into the regular form of a province, and began the mighty work of laying dov/n the great military ways j then I fuppofe it was, that they caft their eyes upon this fertile and wide-extended plain, and projedled The the draining it. In the reign of Nero, in all probability, they made the Hermen Hcymen Streety^ as now called by a Saxon word equivalent to the Latin biRr-Ei. cijia militaris. That this was the hill, feems intimated by the name, in that it has retained what is but a common appellative of fuch TAB.LVI. roads. This noble work, taking in the whole of it, was intended to be a meridian line running from the fouthern ocean, through London, to the utmoft bounds of Scotland. This may be inferred from the main of it, which runs direcily north and fouth. x 4 nd another argument of its early date, drawn from three remarkable particularities, I have obferved in travel¬ ling upon it, and which diow it w^as begun before that notable people had a thorough knowledge of the geography of the bland. One is, its deviation welfward as it advances towards thefe fens from London: another is, the new branch, drawn a little beyond Lincoln weflward into Yorkshire, out of the principal ftem going to the Humber; a third is, that it is double in Lincolndiire. Of thefe I diali fpeak again when we come to the follow¬ ing Jter Romanum. Now we will only conhder fuch part of it as has relation to the country we are upon; and that is the road going from Caller by Peterburgh to Sleford in this county, which is undoubtedly Roman, and which firil occafioned the draining this fenny tradl, and furcly more antient than that which goes above Stanford, and along the heathy part of the county to Lincoln. My reafoning depends upon the manner of the road itfeif, and upon that other great work which accompanies it, called the Cardikcy equally to be afci ibed to the fame authors. This road is nearer the firit intention of a meridian line than the other: but, when they found it carried them tlirough a low country, where it perpetually needed repara¬ tion, and that they mull: necelfarily decline welfward to reach Lincoln, they quitted it, and liruck out a new one, more wefterly, that diould run altogether upon better ground. This, if we have leave to guefs, v/as done alter the time of Lollius Urbicus, lieutenant under Antoninus Pius, who With great induflry and courage had extended and fecured the whole province as far as Edinburgh. Then it was they had time and opportunity to complete the work in the bell manner, being perfect malfers of the country, and ol its geography: and this road was for the ready march of their armies and provifions to iuccour tliofe northern frontiers. But it feems as it they had long before that time brought the Hermen Street as far as Lincolnlhire,-^'' efpeciaily that eafieni branch, or original Item, of which we are * Ciefar calls Arminius a German general, whofe proper name was Harman, or Herman, wliich lignifies in that language the General of an Army. t The 6th of Auguft, 1733, I went to meet Mr. Roger Gale coming from Peterborough. 1 Itaicl at the Roman road, tm that high hill, tliey have lately afrelh plowed up fome of the Jieath. It is furprizing to lee how thick the tollil fiielis lay juft under tJie furface, turned to ftone ; cockles, inufcles, bivalves, whdks, and many more. I ineafurcd the adventitious turf giovvn over the Roman road : at a breach, it is ahnoft fix inches. Ocelum prom. V\ v'^^Z-f/ r."' 'f ■ ^ i ■ ■ ' • ! ‘ Iti ' ‘-fr’.. ^ x...y'■■'■- ■V; . ... i, ■■' I. '•-■• . ■ '• '■ r •.'••>'%? iM( • ’ ■ • • ■ iV>y' ITER I. 7 are treating, and that as early as the reign of Nero, and at the fame tirne made the Cardike. I fhall give you my further reafons for this conjecture, and nothing more than conjedture can be expedted in fuch matters. The road which we fuppofe the original ftem of the Hermen Street goes in a diredl line, and full north and fouth from Durobrivae, or Cafter, to Sleford; and there, for aught I know, it terminates. It is manifeft, that if it had been carried further in that diredl ion, it would have pafl'ed below Lincoln heath, and arrive at the river where it is not fordable. It parts from the prefent and real Hermen Street at Upton, a mile north of Cafter; but this is continued in a ftrait line, which demonftrates that it is the original one: the other goes from it with an angular branching. This traverfes the river Welland at Weftdeeping, and is carried in a high bank acrofs the watery meadows of Lolham bridges.'^ Thefe are numerous and large arches made upon the road, to let the waters pafs tlirough, taken notice of by the great Camden as of antiquity; and no doubt originally Roman : then it crofles the Glen at Catebridge, (whereabouts it is now called King’s- gate, via regia) to Bourn, (where Roman coins are often found, many in pofleftion of Jof. Banks, jun. efq.) fo to Fokingham and Sleaford. It is now called Longdike. All along parallel to this road runs a famous old drain, called Cardike.\ Mr. Morton has been very curious in tracing it out through his county, Northamptonlhire. I am forry I have not yet had opportunity to purfue his laudable example, in fmiftnng the ccurfe of it through Lincoinfhire: but as far as I have obferved it, it is marked in the map. This is a vaft artificial canal drawn north and fouth upon the edge of the fens, from Peterburgh river to Lincoln river, about fifty mile long, and by the Romans without all peradventure. It is taken notice of by ferjeant Callis, our countryman, in his readings on the fewers. That wife people, with a greatnefs of thought peculiar to themfelves, obferved the great ufe of fuch a channel, that by water carriage fhould open an inland traffic bctvreen their tvro great colonies of Durobriva; and Lindum, or Lincoln, without going round the hazardous voyage of the Eftuary : juft fuch was the policy of Corbulo in Tacitus, Annal. xi. Ne ta¬ men miles otium indueret inter Mofam Rhe?iumque trium ^ viginii millium fpatio fo[jam produxit^ qua incerta oceani evitaroitur. And left the foldiery fhould be iclle, he drew a dike for the fpace of three and twenty miles between the Maefe and the Rhine, whereby the dangers of the ocean are avoided; which is exadfly a parallel cafe with ours. Beftdes, it is plain that by intercepting all the little ftreanis coming down from the high country, and naturally over- fiowing'our levels, it would much facilitate the draining thereof, which at this time they muft have had in view. This canal enters Lincolnftrire at Eaft- deeping, proceeding upon an exadt level, which it takes induftrioudy between the high and low grounds all the way, by Langtoft and Bafton: paffing the river Glen at Highbridge, it runs in an uninterrupted courfe as far as Kyme: beyond that I have not yet followed it; but I fuppofe it meets Lincoln river near Wafnenburgh, and where probably they had a fort to fecure the navigation, as upon other proper intermediate places, fuch as * Lolham and Torphall, two royal manors belonging to Margaret countefs of Richmond, who lived at Coliiwetron, a great old houfe at Lolham, which has been moted about. At I’orphall tlie foundation of an antient tower forty foot Ljuare. Mr. Samuel Paiker gave me, 1735, a filver Antoninus found by the Cardike on the'back (f Peterborough minfter: the reverfe, COS. III. DES. IIII. Many Roman coins found in dig¬ ging in the ruins of the minfter. At Moreton upon the Cardike, much Roman coin found. t Cardike isBritifh: Cairs h p:d:is. 8 ITER I. as Walcot, Garick, Billingborough, Waldram-hall, Narboroiigh, Eye antiently Ege, agger and I imagine St. Peter’s de Bargo hence owes its original: and a place called Low there, a camp ditched about, juft where the Cardike begins on one fide the river: another fuch fortification at Hor- fey bridge on the other fide the river: all thefe names point out fome antient works. It is all the way threefcore foot broad, having a large flat bank, on both fides, for the horfes that drew their boats. Roman coins are frequently found through its whole length, as you well know, who are poliefl'ed of many of them of different emperors. Now it feems to me highly probable that Catus Decianus, the procurator in Nero’s time, was the projector both of this road and this canal, two notable examples in different kinds of Roman induftry and judgment j and the memorial of the author of fo great a benefit to the country is handed down to us in feveral particulars j as that of Catefbridge before mentioned upon the road, and of Catwater, a ftream derived from this artificial channel, at the very place where it begins, to the Nen at Dovefdale bar: likewife at Dovefdale bar comes in another ftream from the north, from a place by Shephey bank, called Catfcovc corner; and this was flrft hinted to me by our deceafed friend, the learned and reverend Mr. John Britain, late fchoolmafter of Hoibech: to which we may add Catley, a town near Walcot upon the Cardike beyond Kyme ; and Catthorp, a village near Stanfield, upon the road. We may likewife upon the fame grounds conjefture that Lollius Urbicus repaired this work ; v/hence it feems that his name, though cor¬ rupted, is preferved in Lolham bridges ; for there is no town of that kind near it. Vid. Gale’s Itmerar. pag. 28. Lowlsworth upon the Hermen Street without Bilhops-Gate, in Spittle-Fields. Certainly this is a good hint for our imitation, had we a like public fpirit. Now this road thus accom¬ panying the canal, was of great fervice to the traders, who might have an eye upon their vefiels ail the wdiile. And even after the projedtion of the other branch which goes to Lincoln upon the higher ground, the navigation here was undoubtedly continued in full perfedfion, till the Romans left the iiland j for fuch is its advantage of fituation, that it could never w^ant water, nor ever overflow : that ftream of Catwater feems to be cut on purpofe, at leaft fcoured up, to preferve thefe ufes in drawing off the floods of Peter- burgh river into the Nen, if its proper channel was not fufiicient. The meaning of the word Cardike is no more than Fendike : we ufe the word ftill in this country, to fignify watery, boggy places: it is of Britifli original. I doubt not but that the Romans likewife made that other cut, between Lincoln river and the Trent, called the Fofs: the name feems to indicate it, as well as the thing itfelf; for it is but a conTequent of the Cardike, and formed on the fame idea: fo that I fuppofe it was not originally cut, but Icoured by Henry I. as Hoveden mentions: then the navigation was con¬ tinued by land from Peterborough quite to York, and this was very ufeful to the Romans in their northern wars. The other way they might come from Huntingdon. The 2cth of Odlober, 1726, I traced the Cardike round the out- fkirts of Sir William Ellys’s park of Nockton: it runs near the flte of the old priory, whole ruins are juft vifible: it bounds the park entirely on the ten fide, and is very perfedl thereabouts; the high-country ftreams from Dunfton, and others, running along it. We faw where it eroded a marfhy valley, and reached theoppofite high ground in its courfe to Wafhenburgh. A well of the old priory is well preferved, remarkably good water. That 9 ITER I. That part of the Carclike between Lincoln and the Trent was begun to be cleanfed by bifhop Atwater, but he died before completed. It is highly probable that the Romans called our Cardike Foja^ which happens to be preferved only on that part between Lincoln and the Trent. The Fofsdike in being in Edward the Confeffor’s tirne. Vide Camden, JSIottingham. Cardike runs clofe by Thurlby town end. The marquis of Lindfey gave me an exceeding fair Maximinus ; the reverfe, genio pop. rom. found at Grimsthorp. Mrs. Tichmus of Stamford told me flie once had many Roman coins, from a great parcel found at or near Sleford. The 18th of October, 1728, I travelled on the Roman road, the eaftern branch of the Hermen Street from Sleford, for ^bout three miles fouthward. I obferved that it went not to Sleford town direftly, but to the old houfe of Sir Robert Carr’s, formerly Lord Huffey’s (attainted for treafon in time of Henry VIII.) called Old Place. We faw by the way, on the eaft fide the road, a mile or more fouth of Sle^ford, an old work, fquare, ditched about, large, with an entry from the road; the earth of the vallum thrown on both lldes. But it was not enough for the Romans thus to provide for commerce and travelling, without they fet proper Rations or manfions for the reception of negociators and the like. Accordingly tve find the diftance between Cafter and Lincoln, about 40 miles, has two towns upon it at proper intervals for lodging ; thefe are Sleaford and Stanfield : the original names of them are in irrecoverable filence, but the eternity of the Romans is inherent. At Sleaford they have found many Roman coins, efpecially of Sleaford the Conflantine family and their wives, .about the caftle and the fpring- Ro. town. head a little above the town. It is probable that Alexander, the bifliop of Lincoln, built his work upon the fite of a Roman citadel. Befide, at Sleaford comes in the other Roman road from the fen country by Brig-end caufeway, and at the interfedtion of thefe two roads the old town Rood. At Stanfield, which is a little village near Burn, they find daily the foundations Stanfield of buildings, innumerable coins and other antiquities, of v/hich yourfelf town. and our friend Mr. John Hardy have a good quantity. Thefe are chiefly dug up in a clofe called Blackfield, from the extraordinary richnefs of the ground. It Rands half a mile oR' the road upon elevated ground, whence you may fee Spalding, BoRon, and the whole level: it is now only of fome note for a good chalybeat fpring. I lhall rehearfe a few things I have noted hereabouts, and then we will defcend into Holland. The following antient part of the genealogy of the inheritors of Brun, or Bourn, contains feveral antiquities hereabouts. The fpring-head at Bourn, near the caRle belonging to them, is remark¬ able for its largenefs and quicknefs. D Duke IO I. I' TEE. * Duke OHac, 960, in the time of Edgar, fays Ingulfus, p. 67* falfly firnamed De Wake I in the Life of Hereward. Goda=Walt. Mant. I fEalph E. ofl' - Hereford, fir- | named Scalre. :|;Morcar, Lord of Brun, fecond fon of Algar earl of Leicefter. I I V. Peck, A. S. iii. f. 28 .§ Roger, Lord 7 Leofric = Edina, great grand-daughter of Ollac. Vita Hereward. In- of Brun 1060. y j gulf. p. 67. I IjHereward thefa-) =Thurfrida, vit. Hereward. This Hereward was the hero of his time, and mous outlaw j j did many notable exploits. He was nephew to Brando, abbot of 1 Peferbuigh. Vid. Dugdale’s Imbanking. Hugh Evermue, lord 7 = I of Deping and Brun. 5 I heirefs. Ingulph. p. 67. Richard '* Ofiac, ambaflador from Athelwolf, king of the West Saxons, anno 851, to Bertulf, king of Mercia, witnefs to a charter of Bertulf’s to Croyland abbey. Ingulf, p. 490. This was done at a parliament held at Kingdbury, a manor of the kings of Mercia, near Verolanum, and near where Offa had built tlie inonaftery to St Alban. I iuppofe Ofiac, often mentioned in charters about 966, in Ingulf and others, to be Ofiac, in the time of king Edgar, partner with earl Oful in the government of Northumberland, by king Pdred conftituted. His hand is at king Edred’s charter to Croyland, anno 948 ; to that of king Edgar, in 966 ; and to that of king Edgar to Peterborough, 970. Roger de Hoveden, p. 243. Ofiac, butler to Athelwolf, was a Goth by origin, fays Rog. de Hoveden, defeended from Stuf and Withgar, two earls and brothers, wlio received the Ifle of Wight from their uncle, king Cerdie, and Cinvic his fon, their coufin. t Ralf, or Radinus Scalre, fon to Goda, filler to king Edward : he is buried at Peter¬ borough. Leofric, lord of Brun, was coufin to him. Earl Rodulf was fon to Goda. Wil¬ liam Malmlbury, p. 45. Z». Earl Rolf was one of king Edward’s admirals againft earl Godwin, J Morcar had thefe manors following, in the time of Domefdav book: Colftewrde (Colfler- worrh) Bafingheham, Shillington, Cherchebi (Kirkby) Chime (Kime) Bodebi, Wellingoure, Caftre, Cotes, Barewe, Strouftone, Nort Stoches, Carletune, Bredefthorp, Wes-Bitham, Boitone, Brune, and Stapleford. Bodebi belonged of riglit to Crowland. § Morchar, or Macher, as William Malmfbury calls him, fon of Elgar, or Algar, p. 46. b. was made earl of Northumberland ; Toflin, fon of Earl Godwin, lofing it for his feverity ; and at the end of king Edward’s life, Toflin coming out of Flanders to invade the coafts of Northuinbeiland in a piratical manner, was repelled by the forces of Morcar, and his brother Itdvvin. I'oftin goes into Scotland, there meets Harold Harfag, the Norwegian, with three hundred fiiips upon an invafion : they agree to join forces, land in Northumberland, furprife the two bi others overjoyed at their late vidtory, and fliut them up in York city till king Harold relieved them. Toflin, fon of earl Godwin, was earl of Northumberland, and turned out, by infllgatlon of his brother, at the end i f Edward the ConfclTor’s life, and Morchar made earl in his head Morcar, and his elder brother Edwin, lived there very lovingly together, and when Harold the king was fiain by William the Conqueror, offered themfelves to the people, who might chule one of them tor their king. Harold and they were eoufins ; and they were at London at the time of the battle of Haflings; but William the Conqueror’s fortune prevailed both in getting the battle, and in getting the kingdom. Afterwards they diflurbed the Con¬ queror by little inroads and vexations, and were fometimes taken prifoners ; vet he pardoned them, and married them to his relations. At length they were fiain perfidioufiy by their own men, and the king was much grieved at their death, [1 Hereward married Turfrida in Flanders. I ITER I. 11 Richard de Rulos=only daughter. Ingulph. anno i x 14. and Petr. Blefens. Baldwin Fitz-Gilbert, earl of Glomery, founder of Deping| priory, ob. 1171, Monajl. Anglican, Vol. I. p. 469. Vol. 11 . >-=AdheldIs p. 23, -York’s Heraldry, 191. j I anno 1133. Hugh de Wac=Emma, daughter and heir of Baldwin earl of Glocefter. I Monafi. Angl. VqI. 1 . p. 462. Vol. 11 . 236. Baldwin lord Wakec= Roger us. he founded the abbey of Brun, 1140. He gave the priory of Deeping to Thorney abbey, ob. 1156, and was buried at Thorney abbey. Dugilale’s Baronage. Baldwin, lord Wake and Lydel, in Cumberland := Allcia= Jofcelyn de Styvecle, lord of he died the 20th of July, 1224, buried at Harombel, a caftle in Gafcoign, Great Styvecle, com. Hunt. Inquifit, 38. H. Ill 2. Vin¬ cent ABC, N. 43 p. 891. Baldwin lord Wake: = Ifabella, daughter and heir of Wil. Bruer=Beatrix de Vanne, concu he died 1213. Dug- dale’s Baronage. lord of Torbay, fon of Henry de Bruer. bine of Reginald earl of Cornwall. Hugh Wake, lord of Wake,=Johanna, heirefs of Nicholas d’Eftotvil^ Lydel and Brun : he died^ 1233- J lord of Cotingham, who died 1220: f =Hugh BIgod lord Ihe died on St. Ambrofe’s day 1260. T juftice of England. Mon. Angl. Vol. 11 . p. 348. J Baldwin, lord of Wake, Brun,^ Hugh Wake. Rymer’s Feed. I. p. 493. Lydel and Cotingham, died f prid. non. Feb. 1281, mentioned T—Elinor, daughter of Sir John Montgomery in Rymer’s Foedera I. p. 777 * J _^ Sir Hugh de Wake, his father, gave him the manors of Deeping and Blil- worth, Northamptonfhire. John de Wake: — Johanna he died 4Ap. 1304. St. John lord St. John — Mirabella == Thomas Afpal. f— Sir Tho. Wake, knight==Alice, daughter and coheir of Sir f—1—^ John Patefhul, knight. EdmundPlantagenetofWood-_Margaret, After Thomas de Wake) —^l^nch, daughter of n I 1 rT7--_^ . » t > Hpnrv k Qrif^o-pripf- ftock, earl of Kent, third fon of king Ed. 1 and heir. ob. 4 July 1343- ) _ he founded the ab bey of Hautemprife, in Yorklhire, then removed it to Cotingham 1322. The original feal of that abbey is in the hands of John Warburton, efq. Somerfet herald, t 1 * r w ’ V. f and was engraven by the Antiquarian fociety, London, • axe, o . .p. Henry Plantagenet, Earl of Lancafter. Sir Thomas Holland, one of) ==Joan the fair the founders of the order > maid of Kent, of the Garter. j r f J.V ( = E Wil. Montacute, earl of Salifbury. Edward the black prince. There were other collateral branches of this family about 1244. fuch as Thomas Wake, who held lands in Stoke and Irthingbure under the abbot pf Peterburgh. Wydo Wac held half a knight’s fee in Deping, Berefham and 12 1 T E R I. and Stow, of the heirs of Flugh Wake the fame year. Hugo Wac, Roger Wac, witnelies to a charter 1152. Rymer’s F&^deray I. p. 12. From Sir The. Wake, that married the daughter of Sir John Patefnalj is defeended his grace the prefent archbilhop of Canterbury. Not lo/ig fince fome BritiOi inffruments of brafs called celts, arrow-heads,, and bits of bridles of the fame metal, were found at Aye near the Cardike. The 19th of November, 1731, I faw four celts and a brafs fpear-head found at Ege, or Aye: the celts were of the female or recipient kind: they were bought by biihop Kennet, and are now in the gentlemen’s fociety at Peterborough. The Druids buried them there, when the Romans drove them northward: there has been fome great work of the Druids there, as I take it. At Jernham was found an old brafs feal, a man blowing a horn, the legend jo/m Sodeburi, now in the hands of Mr. Richards of Stanford. At Edenham was a Rone crofs now denroliOied: the infeription on it I have TAB. XI. inferted in the Plate of Croifes: I faw the Rump of it remaining not long fince : hard by has been an old caRle at Bitham. GrimRhorp, the pleafant feat of the Duke of AncaRer: the park is very large and beautiful; in the middle of it Rood Vaudy abbey in a vale, founded by Wil. de Albemarle 1147. fome fmall ruins of it are left: the lawn there, whereon is an annual horie-race, is extremely delightful.* In Hakunby church upon a Rone I read this infeription, , 3IQC fuit BeRcr C|)oma0 U TBrunn t)ocitatu0. Sempringham abbey founded by St. Gilbert lord of the place, and author of the Gilbertin order, where men and women lived together in holy com¬ munity: now an old ruinous feat of the earls of Lincoln. Trekingham, fo called, as fome will have it, from a fanciful Rory of three Danifh kings there buried; round the font in the church is this inferip¬ tion, + maria gratia p, ll» t* Upon a tombRone in the church¬ yard this, HIC INTVMVLATVR JOHANNES ONDAM DNS DE TRIKINGHAM. St. Saviour’s chapel at the end of Brig-end caufeway is Rill left, turned int6 a manfion houfe, founded by George of Lincoln, endowed with lands to maintain the caufeway : a legacy highly to be commended. At Ranceby near Sleford on a hill, many Roman antiquities found, of which an account in Leland’s Itinerar. Hale Parva, Hale Magna, fo called from the hall or teat of the lord of the manor: in the former is Helpringham, which I fup- |)ofe no more than Hak parva ingbamy the termination being very common in towns hereabouts. Holland Having given an account of the preparation made by the Romans towards ujbrtnkid by gaming this vaR trad; of fen-land, the Lincolnlhire levels, by fecuring it tu \omans. freRi water of the high countries in that noble cut called Cardike; we * 1 he Duke of Ancafter, 1726, fhowed me a large brafs Hadrian, but defaced, dug up in his garden, near \X\q vnnulus at the end: he fays moie coins have been found about the ftone pits in the park. That tumulus perhaps was the burial'placc of Grime, who denominated the place Gnmsthorp, or Glime’s farm, probably fome great Saxon, or Dane, 1 ( bferve there are a few more tumuli upon hills heieabouts, as one on the heat't by Corby. . I think the country hereabouts extremely line and delightful : an excellent kind of ftone is dug up in Grimfthor]) pa'k ; and here and there a vein of good marble of a darkilh colour: the blueiih marble lies uppermoft in a bed of ah ut four foot ; then a bed of twenty foot thick, of an excellent whitifti ftone, with reddiih veins where thev can cut blocks of any dimenlions. Anno 1731, in ’digging in the court yard, they f und an old brafs leal, a coat of arms, two bars ermine ; the epigiaphe, as well as 1 could make it out, thus ; SeeL. DGS. OBLIGTCIONS. DG. RCG. ITER I. we muft imagine their next care was to render it fafe from the flux of the Ocean, by making a great bank all along upon the fea coafts : this was done as to the wapentake of Elho by what we call the Old Sea-dike, which by the people at this day is faid to be made by Julius Csefar and his foldiers ; as if they had knowledge of its being a Roman work : at the mouths of all the rivers no doubt they made gotes and fluices as at prei'ent, which was an invention of Ofiris, the great king of Egypt, as Diodorus Siculus tells us, I. 19. We may well fuppofe it was performed after the time of Lollius Urbicus, fcarce fully accomplifhed before: poflibly in Severus his time, which feems not obfcurely hinted at by Herodian, III. Sed in primis cura habuit pontibus occupare paludes^ ut Jiare in tuto inilites pojfint atque in folido praliari. Siquidem Britannia pleraque loca Jrequefitibus oceani alluvionibus paludefcunt. Per eas igitur paludes barbari ipji natant excurjantque ad ilia ufque demerji. But he had it in his particular care to make paffes over the fens, that the foldiers might ftand firm and fight upon hard ground ; for many places in Britain are marfhy through the frequent overflowings of the ocean, over which the inhabitants will fwim, and walk though up to the middle in water. To which defcription no place fo well correfponds. That the Romans thoroughly inhabited this fertile plain, the following inftances will fufficiently evince. About 1713, at Elm near Wifbech, an urn full of Roman brafs money was taken up, not far from a tumulus of which the comrhon people have ftrange notions, affirming that they frequently fee a light upon it in dark winter nights. Dr. Malley has many of the coins; they are of the later empire. There is another piece of high ground near it, where have been buildings. Dr. Maffey fays there is a Roman altar in a wall there. At Gedney hill feveral Roman coins have been found; fome of Antoninus are in your colledfion. In the fame hamlet, about two mile north of Southea bank, is a pafture called the High Doles, being a fquare doubly moted, where ancient foundations have been dug up, and fome Roman coins. Another like fquare fo moted is in the parifli of St. Edmund’s, about the fame diftance from the faid bank, where the like matters have been difcovered. Afwic grange in Whaplodedrove parifli is a high piece of ground, fquare and moted about: in this and near it many Roman coins have been dug up, and urns, which I have feen 3 fome coins in your col¬ lection. This is near Gatfcove corner j and it was Mr. Britain’s notion that Catus made this work among many others as cajlella to fecure the pofl'elfion of the country : thefe lie as it were in a line, on the mofl: foutherly part of Elho. In the parifh of Fleet near Ravenfclow, about 1698,* upon a piece of high ground where buildings have been, Mr. Edward Lenton dug up a large urn with letters round it, full of Roman coins,-f- about the quan¬ tity of three pecks, covered with an oak board : the urn he broke in pieces : they were of brafs piled edgeways, moflly about the time of Gallienus and the thirty tyrants as called, Tetricus, Claudius Gothicus, ViClorinus, Caraufius, AleCtus, &c. I have feen vafl: numbers of them, and have fome by me: many are in your collection. Near this place runs a low channel, quite to Fleet haven, which probably then was the chief outlet of the waters into the fea. Mr. Lenton found fome fliip-timber upon it with rufty nails, probably of fome Roman barge. None of thefe coins were lower than the Tetrici, which proves the imbankation was made before their time. In the fame latitude, and in the next parifli, Holbech,:J; in a paflure called Any- R totts, * Later, about 1701 or 1702. t At Grantford, by March, 1732, feveral Roman urns found. J Holbech feems to have been Holbergh, as Wifbech Wousbergh. 14 Roma rf)ads then tofts, in niy tenure, is a like fquare of high ground, where rubbiflT. of build¬ ings and coins have been found; it is moted likev^^ife : not long fince a labourer, fcouring up a pit in the mote, took up an urn now in my poilellion. At Giggleshurn, in cafting up a ditch, were many Roman coins found: we may reafonably conjefture Moulton hall was fuch another place originally: and in a field not far from thence, called Woods, near Ravens- bank, three mile fouth of Moulton church, upon plowing, feveral Roman urns and vellels were found, of fine white and red earth ; fome of them were brought to Mr, Hardy. At Spalding, Roman antiquities have been found, particularly cifierns; of which fome accounts in the Adfs of the Royal Soc. N° 279. and there was a P^oman calfle there, as I conjecture, on the north fide or the town, not far from the river on the right hand of the great road to Boftoii, the fquare form of the ditch yet remaining. Thefe places, with Ibme other of like nature, make another line of fortrefics through the mid¬ dle of the country, pai allel to the prefent towns. I have been told that at Theopliiius Grant’s houfe in Whaplode, near Gorham’s holt, aquedudfs of clay, one let into another, have been dug up 7^ and that in the feadike bank, between Fleet and Gedney, a brafs fvrord was lately found, which feem to be Roman. Thus far in South Flolland. At Bofton, about 1716, they dug up an old Roman foundation beyond the fchool-houfe: near it fome hewn liones formed a cavity, in which was an urn with alhes, another little pot with an ear, and an iron key of an odd figure, in my polfefiion. Som.e time before then, in Mr. Brown’s garden at the Green poles, they dug up an urn lined with thin lead full of red earth and bones. A like one I have feen notv in Sir Hans Sloan’s mufeum, unqueftionably Roman. N As the Romans had thus intirely taken in and inhabited the country, no • doubt but according to their cufiom they drew feveral roads acrofs it: but I fear it will be very difficult to give an exadt account of them : fuch is the nature of the ground, having no folid materials, that they would be prefentjy wore away without more conflant reparations than the inhabitants , pradtife : yet I have little doubt in fuppofing one of their ways was drawn trom the northern high country about Bolingbroke by Stickford, Stickney, Sibfey, and fo to Bofeon river about Redilonegote, where it paifed it by a ferry. I have fancied to myfelf that feveral parcels of it are plainly Roman, by the flraitnefs and by the gravelly bottom : from thence to Kirkton it is indubitably fo, being laid with a very large bed of gravel: and juft a mile from the river is a ftone, now called the Mile-frone, ftanding in a quadrivium i it is a large round ftone like the frujlum of a pillar, and very properly a lapis miiliaris. From Kirkton I imagine the road went to Donington, where it met tlie great and principal road of the country, which is drawn from Ely to Sleaford in a line not much different from a ftrait one. It is certain that there is fuch a road from Grantcheftcr, which was a Roman town a mile, above Cambridge, to Ely by Stretham: thence another goes acrofs the depth of the fens by Upwell and Elme towards Wifbech j and it was near this road that the urn with coins firft mentioned w^as found: and anno i y^o a Roman urn full of coins was found at the fame place ■, they were of iilver, and very fair. Mr. Beaupre Bell, a curious gentleman, has many Pvoman coins found near this Roman road by Emney; feveral of Caraufius un- deferibed. Wiibech probably was a Roman ftation, and their c aftl founded upon an older foundation. I fuppofe this road palled over Wifbech * Anijo 1727, at Walpcle, hy the fide of Wifioech river, abundance of Roman aquedudts were dug up, and Roman bricks, &;c. and Mr. Colburn, minifter there, fent me an aque¬ duct. I T E II Wifoech river above the town towards Guyhurn chapel, then went to Trokenholt and Clowscrofs, there entering oiir country : from thence that it went in a ftrait line to Spalding, by which means rnoft of thofe fquare forts we have mentioned in Elho, where Roman antiquities were difcovered, together with moft of the fouthern hamlets, will be found to be fituate near or upon it; fuch as St. Edmund’s chapel, the moted place there, Gedneyhili chapel, Highdoles there, Holbech chapel, Whaplodedrove chapel, Afwic grange, St. Katherine’s, and Moulton chapel: whether any traces of it can now be found or no, I cannnot fay; but the villages thereabouts feem ffrongly to favour the conjefture. Suppofing it fadt, I Ihould not be furprifed if it now be laid perfectly level with the furface of this fenny foil, feeing I have obferved the like appearance of a Roman road when carried acrofs a meadow in the high countries, and which was com- pofed of a bed of gravel loo foot broad, particularly at the Roman city of Alauna by Biceffer, of which I Brail in a following page give an account; and this of ours I fuppofe only made of the earth of the country thrown into a bank, becaufe it was impofiible to get miore durable materials. From Spalding, according to my fentiments, this road went towards Herring bridge (t^^ word retaining fome fem.blance of antiquity) upon Surflet river, fo along the divifion between the wapentakes of Kirton and Aveland, near Wrigbolt and CreiTy-hall, to the end cf Brig-end caufeway at Donington. Here, Holland brig or Brig-end caufeway has all the requi- fites that can afcertain it to be a Roman work, behrg ftrait and laid with a folid bed of flone: the prefent indeed is repaired every year, but we have much reafon to think the firR projection of it through this broad morafs was no lefs than Roman. From thence it went to Sleford; then it feems to have gone acrofs the heath, and to have fallen in with the great Hermen ftreet at a remarkable place called Biard’s leap : from thence polli- bly it was carried, or was defigned to be, by Stretleythorp and Brentbrough- ton over the Witham to Crocolana upon the fofs-way ; then over the Trent into Nottinghamfnire, where it anfwers in a line with the road to Tuxford andWorkfop; and fo on perhaps to the Irifn fea, whereby it would become a great parallel to the Watling ftreet running acrois the kingdom, as it does, from fouth-eaft to north-weft. At Sleaford I am inclinable to think another road came from Banovallum, or Horn caftle, to the eaft of the river Bane fouthward by les Yates, and fo crolfed the Witham by Chapel- hill and the Cardike fomewhere about Kyme : or elfe crofted the Vvhtham at the Hermitage, fo went by Swinfned north end to Donington : this prin¬ cipal road we fpeak of on the other end feems to go from Ely by Soham. and Bury to the German ocean. I am not adiamed to offer my conjedlure to the curious, however Bender its foundation may be, if only as a hint for a future fearch: but it feems to me very probable, that if it was not fully executed by the Romans, they intended it, and have in part mianifeftiy done it. I conceit it crofl'es the Icening ftreet at Ikefworth near Bury, then goes to Bretenham, the Combretonium ; but with that country of Suf¬ folk I am at prefent perfecfly unacquainted. Return we to Holland. Befides this great road, I think we need not fcruple to alfert Tliat now called Ravenlbank to be another, going eaft and well, through the heart of the country, from Tid St. Mary’s to Cowbit. I have rode fome miles upon it, where it is now extremely ftrait and broad. We have been informed that it is adlually in fome old writings called Romans Bank ; it is well known the WelBi pronounced Roman Rhiiffam^ and our EngliBr word ruffian is from this fountain. Among the WelBi the letters m and v are equivalent. I. i6 ITER equivalent, to which/’is perfeftly alike; maiir and ’vaur is great, and many more: lb that raven, and riiffen, is the lame word ; and hence no doubt came ramblmg, roving, and rommg, as an ignominious appellative of fiich as thought every country better than their own; for fuch to our anceftors feemed the Romans, that fcarce left any corner of the known world impervious to their all-conquering eagles, carrying arts and arms along with them as an impetuous torrent, with a mod: glorious and invin¬ cible perfeverance. Further, it is not unlikely that the upper road running eaft and weft nearer the fea bank, now called Old Spalding gate, is originally Roman ; in fome places, as about Fleet, it retains the name of Haregate, which is equivalent to via militaris when fpoken by our Saxon progenitors. T bus the main road and thefe two lelfer ones feem fufficiently to anfwer this purpofe as to Elho: it feems to me, that when the Romans made the many forts all along the eaftern Ihore, to guard agaiuft the Saxons, that this bay was provided for by five, two upon the edges of the high country, and thi •ee upon the rivers; Brancafter in Norfolk, Burgh on Lincolnfhire fide ; Wilhech,* Spalding, and Bofton, upon each river of the fenny tra6f. Having given you then all the authentic or conjecfural memoirs that have in general occurred to my refleftion upon the moft ancient ftate of this country, I ftiall proceed to other particularities, nearer our own times, through every parifli; only firft take notice in Ihort of a wonderful appear¬ ance in nature all over this country, and which is common to all fuch like Antediluvi- upoii the globe, as far as my informations reach : that is, the infinite quan- an trees. tities of fubtei'i'aneous trees, lying three or four foot deep, of vaft bulk and different fpecies, chiefly fir and oak, exceeding hard, heavy and black: many times the branches reach fo near day as to break their ploughs, for fo I have heard them complain about Crowland: about Kyme and Billingay they have dug up fome boats or canoos made of hollowed trunks of trees.’l' Many people will think that this is nothing but the effedt of jiarticular floods, and that this country was once a foreft, and not long fmce difaffbrefted. This country was once taken into the foreft of Kefte- ven by the Norman kings, (as you have told me) only with a political view (ft extending their power, and difaffbrefted foon after at the inftance of the prior of Spalding : yet it is true of Nalfaburg hundred only, in Northamp- tonlhire. But in my apprehenfion, as to the matter before us, fuch confine their notions to very fcanty bounds : an univerfal phaenomenon requires a more dilated folution, and no lefs than that of the Noachian deluge. But upon this I hope for an occafion to be more copious another time; at prefent I remember a paflage in Paufanias’s Attics toward the end j fpeak- ing of an ebeny ftatue of Archigetes, “ I have heard, (fays he) from a man “ of Cyprus very Ikilful in medicinal herbs, that ebeny bears no leaves, no “ fruit, nor has it any ftock expofed to the fun, only roots in the earth, “ which the Ethiopians dig up. Some of them are particularly fkilful in finding them out.” I doubt not but our author fpeaks of fubterranean trees, and that our people might ufe this timber to better ufe than burn¬ ing it. Moft t ^\^ifbech is called JVlfAcrch, i. e. burgh, in king Wulfhere’s charier to Peierburgh. XIr. Peck s Ant. Slant, p. 21. Many Roman aquedudls dug up at VVifliech eaftle, when ip.ey built the prefent ftiuAure, as Mr. Beaupre Bell tells me ; fuch as were found at Walpole, wnereot I have one. William the Conqueror built a cafile upon the Roman work. X No lefs than eight canoos were found in draining Martin mere. Dr. Leigh’s Lancnjler. A ni'ifs-deer’s fkeleton found fourteen foot under ground in the fens by the river Witham, I incoinlhire. I faw part of a mofs-deer’s horn at the Society in Peterboiough, found in the tens there. I T E E, 1 . 17 Moll: writers, and particularly Mr. Camden, and moft ftrangers, have an Injurious opinion of this country, and apply that to the whole which is true but of part of it: for in the main the land is admirably good, hard, and dry; produces excellent corn and grafs; feeds innumerable dieep and oxen of a very large fize, and good flefh and wool 5 bears wood exti'emely well, has feveral large woods in it, fome intirely of oak of confiderable fize ; is full of hedge-rows and quickfets, and in fummer time looks like the garden of Eden : it is level, and moft delightful to travellers, whether on horfeback, or in a coach. The air indeed is moift, as being near the fea, and bordering upon the fens of the ifte of Ely : as to the firft, it is the fame upon every fea coaft ^ as to the latter, they are chiefly on the fouth fide, whence the fun for the moft part draws off the vapours from this country. Indeed this inconvenience accrues from fuch vicinity, the pro- dudfion of gnats ; to which Angelus Politianus has done fo much honour in that beautiful Greek epigram you fhowed me; and is well guarded againft by the gentry in the ufe of netted canopies hung round their beds, which was an invention of the ^Egyptians living in a like country. Vide Brown’s Garden of Cyrus, p. 30. But all things neceflary for the comfort of life are here in great plenty; and vifitants ever go away with a better opinion of it than they bring. That great foul king Charles I. himfelf undertaking the glorious tafk, and others under him, had prqjedfed and made fuch ftately works of fewersy as would have rendered this country before now, for trade and beauty, the rival of its name-fake beyond fea; but the licentious times that fucceeded, gave the unthinking mob (incited by his avowed adverfary in all things, Cromwell) an opportunity todeftroy them. I have often confidered and admired the length, breadth, and depth of their canals, the vaftnefs of their gotes and flukes : indeed I think they made many more than were ufeful, and might have laid out the whole in a better manner. I would not, like the Trojan Prophetefs, pro- gnofticate ill to my own country; but it is not difficult to forefee, that unlefs fome projedf be taken in hand, like that which my friend Mr. Kinderley publifhed fome time ago, this vaft and rich tradl muft be abandoned to eels and wild ducks. A thing of this nature is not to be done but by the fenate of the kingdom taking the matter intirely into their own hands ; and if 1 have any judgement, whatever new v/orks are made, ought always to be carried eaftward only, for reafons 1 inculcated before: therefore, inftead of deriving the Welland into the Witham, as v/as his notion, I would have it brought to the Nen, and both into the Oufe at Lynn, as it was in its original and natural ftate. Since the time of the Romans, beyond their firft bank have been many intakes, by fucceffive banks, of the bell ground in the world left by the fea, which contradis its own limits by throwing up banks of fand out of the eftuary: fo that, from time to time, the land-owners upon thefe frontiers gain feveral thoufands of acres. It is obferved, the land fo imbanked is ever higher in level than that left behind it; and I doubt not but fome time the whole bay between Lincolnfliire and Norfolk (being one of our great fovereign’s nobleft chambers in his Britifli dominions over the fea, vide Seld. Mar. claiif.) wilL.’become dry land. By this means the parifhes hereabouts increafe to a huge bulk. Holbech from Dovefdale bar, where it joins to Gambridgelhire, to the limits of the fait niarihes, is near twenty miles long. The cattle bred on this ground are very large ; the flreep never have horns. Smithfield market, as now much fupported, was chiefly fet up by the inhabitants here, as I have been told, particularly by F Mr. I. ITER Mr. William Hobfbn, brother to the famous Cambridge carrier, and Mr. Cuft ; the London butchers, before then, commonly going into the country i to buy cattle. In every parifh formerly were many chapels, it being impradlicable for people to come fo far to one church, though now moft of them are demo- lifhed, at what time I cannot imagine. No part of England boalfs of fo many beautiful churches, having generally lofty fpires of fine fquared ftone, fetched from Barneck pits, which are a coarfe rag full of petrified fliells of all kinds of fmall fifli, and not, as fome think, from Norway. And in no very diftant times, not a parifh without great numbers of gentry, lords, knights, and great families, who made a figure in the world : now fcarce any remains of them, but the fite of their houfes moted round, their tombs in the churches, their arms in the painted windows, where they have by chance efcaped the fury of fanatic zeal. Many religious houfes formerly there; and nearly the whole country was got into their hands, as appears by the old terriers, or town-books. The only houfes of note are at prefent Dunton hall, in Tyd St. Mary’s parifli, lately rebuilt magni¬ ficently by Sigifmund Trafford, efq. who has likewife inclofed a con- fiderable park with a brick wail 5 and Crelfy hall in Surflet parifh, the feat of Henry Heron, efq. in which the lady Margaret, mother to Hen. VII.- was once entertained. The houfe was handfomely rebuilt by the prefent poOefTor’s father. Sir Henry Heron, knight of the Bath; but the chapel is old, built, or licenfed at leaft, anno 1309, as an infcription over the door tells us. In it is an old brafs eagle with an infcription round it.^ Formerly, there is reafon to fuppofe, the gentry had many parks near their feats. Records in your poffefTion fhow that the prior of Spalding, about 1265, compelled Thomas lord Moulton to compound with him for the venifon in his park at Moulton ^ and in Holbech, about a mile fouth of the church, are lands in my tenure, called the Park. That fifh and fowl is here plentiful, no one will wonder; but particularly the pigeons are noted for large and fine. In the out-fkirts of it are great numbers of decoys, places fo called TAB II 3n incredible quantity of wild ducks,-f- moflly fent up to London : they are large pits dug in the fens, with five canals fhooting from them, each ending in a point after one angle made, well planted with willows, fallows, ofiers, and fuch underwood. I have given a drawing of one. The method of catching fowl in fliort is this : the decoy-man coming dov/n to the angle of the pipe, or canal, which is covered with nets and over-fhadowed with trees, peeps through the holes in the reedy fheds, difpofed like the fcenes at the play-houfe, and joined by the others with holes at the bottom, about as high as a man’s bread:: when he fees a fufficient quantity of wild ducks in the mouth of the great pond, by whiffling foftly, the tame ducks wing-ffocked, and brought up for that purpofe, fwim into the pipe covered with the nets, to feed upon the corn he throws over the fheds into the water: this tempts the wild ducks in to partake of the bait: in the mean time a dog they teach runs round the half-fheds, in and out at the holes in the bottom, which amufes the fowl fo that they apprehend no danger : when he has brought them far enough into the pipe, ftooping he goes along the fcenes, till he is got beyond the ducks, and rifing up fhows himfelf at the half-fcenes, which * The heel wherein Margaret lay, has fince been removed to a farm-houfe by the fen-fide, called Wrigbolt, where I have feen it. It Is a very old-falhioned oak bed with panels of odd emboffed work, like many we fee in old country houfes. t Pliny fays they eat ducks in Britain as a great delicacy. 18 t I r . / / which frightens the wild ducks only, the oppohte way into the narrow end of the pipe, which terminates in a fatal net; and all this is done with¬ out any noife or knowledge of the reft of the wild ducks in the great pond } fo that the decoy-man having difpatched one pipe, goes round to execute the fame game at all the reft, whereby infinite quantities are catched in a year’s time at one of thefe places only. In running over what few remarkables I have obferved in this country, I ftiall exclude Marfli-land, becaufe in Norfolk, obferving only that their churches are very beautiful, numerous, large, and ftately i that here are, too, many fuch of the tumuli. You will indulge me the liberty of giving the etymology of places all along : Cicero likes that method 5 Acad. I. 8. verborum explicatio probatur., i. e. qua de caufa quaque ejfejit ita no¬ minata quam etymologiam appellabant: and though there be often more of pleafant fubtlety than reality in fuch matters, yet it ferves to find out and preferve fome old words in a language that otherwife are in danger of oblivion, I fhall begin with theWafhes fo much talked of, and fo terrible 57, to ftrangers, though without much reafon; if they take a guide, which is Wasi highly advifeable. The meaning is this : they are the mouths of the river Welland, called Fofsdike Wafh, and the river Oufe, called Crofs-Keys Vv^afn, running into the fea, and inclofing this country almoft round. fVafe Sax. iutum, ooje. Twice in a day, fix hours each time during the recefs of the tide, they are fordable and eafy to be palled over; the intermediate fix hours they are covered with the flux of the ocean. Mr. Merret, of Bofton, fon to Dr. Merret, has given a table in the Philof. Tranf. which I improved for the benefit of travellers, and is graven on a handfome copper¬ plate by my friend, Mr. John Redman : but I would have paflengers not to truft too far to the minutes in the table, becaufe at fome times of the year the tides will anticipate a few minutes, at others will be retarded, and at all times (not to fay any thing of the difference of clocks and watches) fouth-eaft winds make the tides flow earlier than ordinary, north-weft protraft them ; fo that a wife traveller, in this and all other cafes, will take time and tide by the forelock. Formerly people travelled vrhat they call the Long Wafh, between Lynn and Bofton, intirely upon the fands or fkirts of the ocean, but now quite difufed and impradlicable: there it was, that king John loft all his carriages among the creeks and quickfands. The memory of it is retained to this day, by the corner of a bank between Crofs-Keys Wafh and Lynn, called now King’s Corner. In Lutton was born the famous Dr. Bufby, mafter of Weftminfter Lux fchool, who has beautified the church, and founded a fchool there: he owes his education to the Welbys, an ancient family in this country. I fuppofe the towm has its name from the general drainage of the country, which was here in one channel united : they call fuch Lades, or Lodes, to this day: this probably is as ancient as any town in Holland. South from it (and therefore) Sutton church is of an ancient make, efpecially theSuxi ftone work of the fteeple : the upper part of the church has been built of brick in the memory of man. John of Gaunt owned Sutton, and other vaft manors and townfliips in this country. At Tyd St. Giles, Nicholas Breakfpear was curate, who afterwards became pope Adrian IV. St. James’s chapel is built of a large fort of brick, fuch ^s I have feen no where ell€3 not Roman. Near it is Ivy-Crofs, of ftone, vc\ 2. quadrivium TAB a curious piece, upon Ravenfbank. Gedney church is very beautiful, built, I believe, chiefly by the abbots Gedj of Croyland, who had a houfe, no doubt, very ftately, on the north fide 20 I. Flee t. HOLBECH. TAB. XXL TAB. L 2 d Vol. ITER of the church, and large poffeffions in the pariili: the upper part of the tower is of the fame date with the church, built upon older work j pro¬ bably both the work of the abbots, together with contributions of the rich families that formerly lived here. In the chancel window a religious in his habit. There is an old monument of the Welbys, and upon the fouth door is this infcription : '31513 (ZBa ^31(2: E(!B£X23 3I2£^ 5l3€)^CEa* The town feems to be derived from Gade?i-ea-, aqua ad viam: Ea is a watering place properly for cattle, and roads we flill call gates in this country. The next paridi, Fleet, from the Anglo-Saxonic Fleot, afluarium, fluxus, dill called Fleet-Haven, is remarkable for the fteeple ftanding at a diftance from the church : from this place the family of the Fletes come, who have made a confiderable figure in the country ever fince we have any written memorials. Holbech (the Salt-Beech) church is very large, and well built, a ftrong tower and lofty fteeple, dedicate to all faints : formerly there were organs and fine painted glafs, with many coats of arms, but none left except the Flolbeches : Vert, fix efcallops argent, three, two, one. There is a fine monument of the Littleburys, an ancient and flourifiling family in thefe parts : upon his fnield is his coat, Argent, two lions pafiTant gardant gules: there is a brafs infcription of a lady of the Welby family, wife to Sir Richard Leake, knight. C>iate p?0 auima 3Iol)annc quontiam filiae EicparBi leake nupcr uro?i0 Ilittlefiurp que obiit jcPiii Ole menf!0 De£emb?i0 anno Oomini mccclrrrioui, cuiu0 anime piopicietur Beil0 Smen. Here was born Henry Rands, alias de Holbech, bilhop of Lincoln, who was one of the compilers of the Liturgy : here formerly flourifiied the ancient families of Fleet, Dacres, Harrington, Barrington, V/elby, Multon. In the year 1696, in digging at Mr. Adlard Stukeley’s gardens, they found an old brafs feal, which I gave to Sir Hans Sloan ; a man in long robes, with two efcutcheons, on one three cocks, on the other a portcullis j the legend, tsovrabla deus oler. In the year 1698, an iron fpur with a very long fiiank was found: in my pofleliion. A remarkable rarity in nature 1 met withal, an admirable olTification in the omentmn of a fheep, white and folid as ivory. Mr. Chefelden has printed a cut of it in the fecond edition of his Anatomy. I gave it to Dr. Mead. From the ancient churchwardens’ accounts, before the time of the Reformation, from anno 1453, curious remarks may be made, in relation to prices of things, wages, fuperftitious cuftoms, old families, and the like: a fpecimen whereof I have here annexed. (j. A Boake of the Stuffe in the Cheyrche of Llolbeche fowld by Ch^ Tchewardyns of the fame acm'ding to the injunByons of the Kyjiges Magyfte. An. dni. M. ccccc. xlvib. Flrft to Antony Heydon the try- nite with the tabernacle - - —^— It. to Wm. Calow thelder the tabernacle of Nicholas and s, d. ii. iiii. vi. viii. It. J lO- Liftletuijx in Holtech Church I ■f.. : \ ■' -M ! • 'i I -i )• * : ',»i •' ?•. *' y ' ' . - _ • ' V , , ■ • . .... :« ■, Vv ■■■ ; ) ) / ITER 1. It. to Wm. Davy on tabernacle of our lady of pytye — It. to Wm. Calow the younger on other tabernacle our lady -—r -- — — It. to Antony Heydon the ymage of the Antony — It. to Humphry Hornefey on fygne of It. to Antony Heydon on other fynge and a lytyl tabernacle It. to Wm. Calow the younger the tabernacle of Thomas Bekete — - - -- It. to Wm. Davy the fygne whereon the plowghe did ftond- It. to John Thorpe a chyft in St. Jamys chapell - It. to Lincone howld woode -r- ' —-r- It. to Nicholas Fofter the banke that the George ftoode on It. to Antony Heydon ij alters — - -r It. to Wm. Stowe ij lytyll tabernacles - — -r- It. to Henry Elman on lytyll tabernacle -- It. to John Thorpe for Harod’s coate - It. to Wm. Calow the younger all thapoftyls coats and otl;ier raggs It. to Henry Elinan for vii baner clothes - - It. to Antony Heydon on blewe clothe - -—r It. to Smithes on pece of howlde faye - ———^ It. to Richerd Richerfon the croffe and other gydys — It. to Mr. Byllysby ij tablys — — —r It. to Antony Heydon for the coats of the iij kyngs of Coloyrre It. to Humphry Hornefey the canypye that was born over the facrament - - — It. to Wm. Calow thelder and John Thorpe iiij owlde pantyd clothes It. to Antony Heydon on wood candleftyke —- It. to Wm. Calow the younger on lytyll beU —--- It. to Antony Heydon on other lytyll hell -- It. to Wm. Davy fpr the tabernacles that ftode at the end of the hy alter ^ — , * * /. s. d. «Sot. ini. ii. nil. s, iiii. iii. d. mi. 11 . 11 . vm. ix. 11 . iiii. V. Yi. Vlll. A. jD. in. ccccc xlvii. It, to Wm. Calow the younger on rod of iyron — It. to Robt. Gyffbn for ij barrs of iyron —-- It. to Antony Heydon xx fcore and x hund. of Jatyn at iii* and xi d. the Ico^re —r— — — -- It. to Richerd Richerfon ij lytyll tabernacles - It. of John Suger for the chyrche Ipnd —r— - It. of the hnrial of Mr. Byllylby -rr— — Jt. of John Mays wyffe for the Dracon - —— It. of Alys Boyds debt to xps corpys glide -— Jt. for on bell ,—-r -- — /. xviii. It. for feyten veftrnents and trafhe in the cheft in trinete quere fold to Davy - - - ,It. of Wm. Burnit for pilows —_ __ It.,of Wfn. Calow the younger for eyrne —;— ___ /. s. d, Sm. totalis xxviii. iiii. iiii. ob. G vi. XX. vi. XX. viii. xvi. iiii. iiii. viii. viii. ii. xviii, iiii. iiii. ix. iii. iii. iiii. iiii. XX. Yfh- iiii. vi. vi. nil. V. Ixix. xi. oh. viii. ii. viii. iii. iiii. iii. ii. ii. Xxxiii. iiii. xvi. XX. More I. 33 ITER More fuperftitious ornaments of the church were fold in queen Eliza¬ beth’s time, 1560. From this book I extrafted the following catalogue of the Minifters of the parilh. John Clerk chaplain. - - Anno John Rifceby vicar. 1450. 1460. Thomas George chaplain then. Robert Jelow. -r -- William Greyborn vicarius perpetuus. — Sir John Welby prieft. Sir John Lyard perpetual vicar. - Baxter. ■—^ 1469. 1474. obiit 1496. 1508. Ds. Neel capellanus. , Richard Wytte. -- - 1520.,' Sir John Scapull. -- -ob. J524. Sir Robert Manning. - 155^- Sir Thomas WeH. — — — ' ^561- Thomas Gybfon precher. Othoneel Bradbury. — — 1600. Matthew Clarke vicar of Holbech. - 1610. Henry Williamfon. —;— ■- 1630. ^ : John Grante. — ' — — 1633. John Bellenden. — — - 1640. John Pymlowe. ——- — — 1647. John Pymlowe. ‘ — ' ‘ — 1687 . George Arnett. — — - 1720. . 1529, a new'organ coft 3 1 . 6s. 8d. The organ 1453, Wm. Enot, of Lynn in the epi. church was and Henry In taken down 1568. Anno Nele of Holbech, gave the faints bell. Another guild of St.Thomas ; another of our Lady. The veftry on the fouth fide of the choir was taken down 1567. There was formerly a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary at Holbech hurp, near the ancient feat of the Littleburys j Handing 1515: another chapel thereabouts, dedicated to St. Nicholas: another in Wignal’s gate, near Holbech hall, by the river fide, dedicated to St. Peter. About 1719, I faw many corpfes dug up in the yard at making a ditch there. Another in the fen ends. An ancient guild of Corpus Chrifti Hood near Baijey pit, where is now a houfe once belonging to Mofes Stukely, who owned the eftate thereof. An hofpital founded by John de Kirkton, in his own melfuage, by licence of king Ed. Ill dat. Nov. 16, for a warden, chaplain, and fifteen poor people r he endowed it with feveral lands in Holbech, which he held of the abbot of Croyland, who by licence per¬ mitted the fame to be annexed to this hofpital of All Saints in Holbech, for which he paid 20I. This Hood, as I imagine, where now is the Chequer inn, over againft the church. I remember the old Hone-work arched doors and windows with mullions, pulled down when rebuilt by my father, and many of the carved Hones were laid in the foundation of the houfes he built by the river fide at the bridge. See Dugdale’s Monajiicon,. A free-fchool was founded here, about 1669, by George Fatmer, efq. who endowed it with lands, which with others fince given are n'ow worth about 50I. per annum ; which I am bound in gratitude riot to forget. A. D. 1699, there were belonging to the fifty-four bounds of this parilh, R.itluUus do Holbech officium cuftod, rehgnat, & refumit locum focii ap. yEd. Petri Caiir. 1349. i \ >. ' ■} » 5 ? ■jf ( t -V.'- [^''' .': '■ 4 ' J: V M Jk - L 1 ^' a ?Htr? ^2^/// //u 2^/1 7 /e, S^?77pcr7 '77 ?7 .yij ??0 ?''i777t7(7 7^t/l7/ttj> //• &^/7ki7^7/ /'/(^2, E I I. >3 paying rates, acres 6234; in the rnadh, acres 6532 ^ and fince added for the laft intake, acres 170. The old crofs in the market-place was pulled down 1683. 1253, Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, obtained a market and fair to Elolbech, 31 061 . 37 Hen. III. at Windfor, and TAB II. probably built that crofs. 2d Vol. Q^aplode,. called anciently Capellade, i. e. Capella ad Ladam s. Jluvium, ^ ^ has a very ancient church, founded by the abbots of Croyland : the tower ftands on the fouth fide. In the upper and fouth windows are thefe coats of arms. Barry of fix azure and argent; Azure, a bend gules, charged with three rofes argent; Argent, two lions palfant gardant gules, Littlebury. In the eaft window of the north chapel, Littlebury^ and Or, a feli'e between two chevronels gules ; and Sable, a fret argent, Harrington : Azure, on a bend gules, three rofes argent, as before. I have a copy of the foundation of this church. Here is a large monument of the Irbys. GENEALOGY of MOU.LTON. Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, and lord of Holbcch, obtained a market for Fleet, 9 Jo. 1 Robert Romley,'®= daughter of Wm, Mefchines, lord of Coupland. Win. Duncanfon =. Alice, heirefs. Hugh de Morvilc, lord of Burgh upon Sands, chief forefter of Cumberland. I Richard de Lucv 7 — Ada, cohelrefs Thomas-de Multon obtained a market and fair for lord Egremont i I I Holbech, 37 Hen. III. . Amabilis, heirefs = Lambert de Multon, 1270. Thomas de Multon, lord of I Burgh, in Cumberland. Thomas de Multoii, 31 Ed.'I. 1303.' Thomas de Multon ^Maud de Vaulx, heirefs , . • lord of Bursrh, > 1 o*" Gillesland, daughter, ; . 20 Ed. I. 3 ^ Hubert de Vaulx. Thomas de Multon, lord EgremouU . Thomas de Multon, lord 7 C daughter of Rich, de Burgh, Egremont, ob. 15 Ed. IL 3 ~ 4 Ulton. John de Multon, lord Egre- Thomas de Multon, lord of Burgh,J mont, ob. f. p. 9 Ed. HI. Gillefland and Holbech, 2r Ed. I. >_Ifabel. and 2 Ed. II. Inqwfit. poji mortem. J j Ranulf de Dacre, lord of ? .. ^ • r ^ r , Drumbough caftle \ =Margaret, heirefs. Maud, fays Camden. Thomas Dacre, efq. lord 7 r>i T , of Holbech, 1450. I yPh.l.ppa, ob. 1453. Humphry Dacre, efq. Sir Ralf de Dacre, lord of Holbech, 1470. Moulton, or Multon, probably has its name from a mill, which anciently, Moultok perhaps, were not fo common as now. There is a good church, and very fine fpire; as alfo a good free-fchool of near lool, per ann. value in lands. Moulton 24 I. Weston. Spalding. Pynchbek Doning- TON. Algar- KIRK. WiBERTON Frampton ITER Moulton hall, whofe laft ruins I have feen, was the feat of Thomas de Multon, lord Egremont, a great man in thefe parts. His hand is among the barons at Magna Charta. Between thefe two parifhes, in a green lane northwards, Hands a little Hone called Elho Hone, whence the name of this- hundred is derived : it is about the middle thereof, and was formerly the main road acrofs the country, now called Old Spalding Gate. Old men tell us, here was kept in ancient times an annual court j I fuppofe a con¬ vention, fub dio, of the adjacent parts, to treat of their general affairs. A wood hard by is called Elhoftone wood. Wefton, becaufe weft from the laft town. Here is the ftately chapel of Wykeham, the villa of the rich priors of Spalding, built by Clement dc Hatfield, prior, who died anno 1318. In 1051, Spalding priory made by Thorold, fheriff of Lincoln, out of his own manor-houfe. Many places near the old fea-bank are called hums, fignifying an angle.' Here is a little leam called the the Wik: Mr. Camden, in Bucks, fays it fignifies the winding of a river, as Cowhurn hard by. Spalding has been famous for its ancient and rich priory founded before the Conqueft, and for the refidenceof IvoTailbois, the lord of this country, by gift of William the Conqueror, the fite of whofe caftle is on the north- eaft part of the town. The town-hall was built by William Hobfon. But of this place we expe6l from you, fir, a more particular account. . In Pynchbek church-windows are the arms of Ogle, of Fleet; Argent, on two bars fable, fix efcallops of the firft, empaled with De la Launde. Pyncebeck feems to come from the Cimbrian pinken, lucere, from the clearnefs of its water. Many towns, on both fides Deeping Fen, end in ington, Ingham, as lying upon the Mead. Donington is very hilly, full of elevations or dunes. Thomas Cowley, efq. of Donington, who died about 1718, left all his eftate, which was confiderable, to the poor of every parifti where it lay, whereof 400I. per ann. to Donington, where he built a fchool-houfe, and endowed it. Algarkirk has a fine church, in which are fome water-bougets carved on the oak feats in efcutcheons. They fay here lived the famous count Algar,'f' commander of the Holland men in many battles againft the Danes, of whom they ftiow an image in ftone in the church-yard. I found there this infeription. Sis teflis Xpe, quod non jacet hie lapis ijie ^ifquis es fi tranfeas Jia perlege plora Corpus ut ornetur Jit lapis ut memoretur. Sum quod eris fueramque quod es pro me precor Ora. Wiberton, they fay, has its name from Guibertus, a great man here formerly. There is a place called Multon hall, which belonged to the aforementioned Thomas de Multon. Here is likewife Titton hall: the chapel is now converted into a ftable. Hard by is Frampton, probably from the Anglo-Saxonic trajicere: for here they paffed over the river in a ferry, before Bofton bridge was built} asatFramton, in Gloucefterftiire, upon the Severn, and Framilode paffage. Farnton by Newark, where now is the ferry over the Trent. Gofberton, from Gojbert, or Gojbright, I fuppofe lord of the town before the t Algar the Count, called the Younger, with his two Rewards, Wibert and Leofric, who gave names to thefe three towns, Algakirk, Wiberton, Leverton, with other warriors, obtained a great viAory over the Danes, anno 8yo. (Chron.Joan. Abb. S. Petri de Burgo, ed. a Spaik, p 15. from Ingulf) but were flain the next day. 9 Ed. I. Ranulf de Rye obtained of the king a licence for a market every week, on the Monday, at his manor of Gofberchurch, and H ^ there, as at his lands at Swinflete, Quadavering, Donington, Iwardby, and ITER I. the Conqueft. Fofsdike feems to be Fordsdike, where we pafs over the Wafhes. Skirebec doubtlefs has its name from the Saxon, yr/rr, divifion, becaufe Sklisbeck. here the river parts the hundreds. Here was an hofpital ot knights of St. John of Jerufalem, now intirely demolidied, though the churcii was Handing within memory of man. There v/as another religious houfe near the church : the remains of it is now the parfonage-houfe. Such names of towns as Fifn- toft, Butterwick, Swinefhead, Cowbyte, and the like, feem eafy enough. Sibfey church has very handfome pillars and circular arches, fomewhat after the Roman mode. 1 he top of the Ibeeple is added upon ^ the old work ; perhaps from its watery fituation ; fpa?i, to fteep. ^ Levertcn, Leojrici oppidum : he was a potent man thereabouts at the time of the Normans coming, and gave to the town much common : his deed of gift is now in polTeffion of the reverend and worthy vicar, Mr. William Faikner, which I have feen. Friefton, a friths ajluarium \ fo Aid Frifton in Suffex, near Cuckmere pp^^sYON. haven. Here was an opulent monaftery founded by Guy de Croun, whofe genealogy I fliall not think much to recite, becaufe it relates to the anti¬ quities of this country, and in fome meafure Hiows the reafon of what my friend Mr. Becket, furgeon, much wondered at when he learched the old repofitory of wills at the Prerogative Office in London, where he obferved more of this country than any other in England. The GENEALOGY Of the Craons, Crcdon^ Crodon^ Crou?i, the mod: illuflrious family of Anjou, and one of the moft illuffrious in France, which came into Eng¬ land with William the Conqueror. The barony of Craon is the firfl; and moft confiderable in Anjou: it is a fmall city in that province upon the river Oudon near Bretagne, encompafled with walls.* A. D. 940. Andrew de Craon, lord of Craon, of 7 =: t Agnes, daugliter of Folk, die good Bruflon, and of Loches. 5 I 1 count of Anjou, and lord of Loches. lozenge o. & g. I I ~ Lifois the elder, lord of Craon ; he Artus de Craon, chambrier de I’abbay lived in the time of Nerra, earl de St. Aubin d’Angers. of Anjou. Suhard de Craon the elder, lord of Craon. Lifois de Craon tlte younger, author of the elder or h.ng- lilh houfe of Craon; he was lord of Mordelles. V.Hil- toire de Sable, p. log, no. Guerin de Craon, lord of Craon. Suhard de Craon the younger. He doing homage for his ba¬ ronage to Conan II. duke of Britany, inftead of Geffrey Martel, earl of Anjou, who claimed that fervice. It was conhfcated ; whereupon he waged war, but was wounded therein, and died. Robte de Craon, beliefs = Robert de Vitre, lord of Vitre. Ilildeberg married to Herbert Marquis of Robert de Nevers, firnamed the ==: Avis de Sable, Burgundian, or Allobrog. Inogen deVItre. = Reynold the Burgundian, lord ot Craon. Authors of the fecond houfe of Craon, of fpecial note in France. He founded the abbey of Roe, in the neiglibourhood of Craon, 1096. His Cri d’Arms was Cleriau. H * Thoroton’s Hift. of Nott. gives part of this Pedigree, p. 174. Geffry 26 ITER I. Geffry, firft prior to the abbey of St. Jivron in Norman dy, after abbot of CroylanJ, ob. 1124. Robert, monk of St. Evron, was afterwards abbot of Thorney. Guy de Croun, baron Croun of Friefton, near Bofton, Lincolnflrlrc, given him by William the Conqueror, with whom became into Eng¬ land. He had another feat at Burton Crown, near (Sleafoi dj fo called from him, as now Pedwardyn from his defcendants: he had much land in Afhby, Ravendale, Wade, and Bliton, com. Line. 20 W. I. as appears in Domeiday. He pofTeffed no lefs than fixty lordfhips. He gave to the jmiory of Spalding, refounded about this time by his countryman, Ivo Talbois, one carucat of land in that town, anno 1081. Hiftoir. de Sable, p. 138. thus fays the charter of donation. Guy de Croun, in obedience to the divine infpiration, out of his ability, gave a certain parcel of his eftate to GOD and St. Nicholas, for the foul of \Villiam the king, and Maud the queen, and for the foul of William the Firft, that the Lord would grant him luccefs in his reign, and bring him to a good end ; one carucat of land in Spaldingue, wdth the appurtenances; his wife, all his fons and daughters, and brothers, confenting thereto, for the good of his foul.-He likewife gave ten carucats of land in Pynchbeck to the abbey of Croyland, and two carucats in Spalding to the lame. Godfrey de Croun, ftrft prior of Friefton. Emme. Roger de Croun. William de Crown. Alan de Croun=Muriel. Baron Croun. He was in higheft favour with king Hen. 1 . to whom he was great fteward of the houfhold. Petrus Blefeniis lays he was dear to the king above all other barons of the court, and whole counfel he valued moft. He fo far excelled in induftry, honefty, wdfdom, and lan 61 ;ity, that he •was called the King’s God, by the foldiery. In his country at Friefton, he was called Jlan Open-doors, becaule he kept fo great a houfe, fays Leland in his Itinerary, Vol. VII. p. 126. He owned Southwarnburn, com. Southampt. He founded the pr;ory of Friefton for Benedidlin monks, fubjedi to the abbot of Croyland, anno 1142 : he was buried at Croyland abbey, on the fouth fide of the high altar. See the Monajlicon, and Hiftory of Ingulfus and Continuation,, and Dugdale’s Baronage. 1150. Maurice de Craon, baron Croun. He was made keeper of the caftle of Ancennis bv Hen. 11 . and governor of the provinces of Anjou and Main ; he was one of the plenipo- )> = tentiaries on the part of the king, in the treaties between him and Philip the Auguft, king of France. Maurice de Ci oun, nepos regis Sc nepos Ahnerici de Croun, cui manerium de Burn reftituitur poft mortem Ahnerici de Croun. ‘—Pat. 55. Hen. III. p. i. m. 28. Matilde. Clarice, filler to Henry III. vid. liberat. 35 Hen. III. m, 3. and Claul. 45 Hen. III. m. 13. Ihe was after married again to the duke of Burgundy, 33 Hen. HI. 39 Hen. III. p. 2. m. 2. Guy de la Val, qui habuit in liberio mari- tagio quafdain terras in Walttun com. Surr. led forisfecit illas adherendo baronibus contra Ric. 1 . V. Lib. Feod. Milit, f. 16. b. Ralf de Croun. Peter de Croun habet Hamma, Waletun & Ewell, com. Surr. Pat. 17 Hen. I. m. 24. Guy de Crown, 7 =Ifabel. baron Crown \ He accompanied Richard I. in his voyage to the LIolv Land, 1192 ; was prefent at the treaty between him and Tancred, king of Sicily, lecited by Hoveden, annal He confirmed, to the mms of ilaveiholm, pafture for ninefcore Iheep in Bloxam fields, even to the bounds between them and the abbot ot Grelle.—V. lib. R. Dodfworth, vocat, petigrees, tom. i. f, 94. b. Walter to Langtot=Matildis. Rauulf de Langtot= 1 here ITER 27 I. There were lands in Sutton held of the honour of Croun, —Inquif, Wap. F.lhou. I Ed, III. feod. milit. 42. ofEc. armor, p. 32. 1. William Longchamp r: 2. Henry de Mara. Gules, a feffe between three 1 water-budgets ermine. Robert de Vallibus came into"^ f England with William the ^ Conqueror, 3 Agnes. William de Vauxrz _ [ I Robert de Vauxnr = Petronilla, { Oliver de 3 Vaux. argent and gules. Chequy Sir Henry de Longchamp : he died March 1274, and was buried at Swynflied abbey ; his heart at Burton Pedwardin, as called from his Ion in-law, before the altar in the chapel of the Virgin Mary. Or, three cref- cents gules, charged each with a mullet l\ 1 Sibilla, daughter of Sir Thomas Herin- gande, com. SulT. Az. fix herrings argent. There is a great Fe gatery’d about Boftone parts by the name of Petronille de la Corone dowghter by Lykelehode de la Corone foundar of Friefton priorye, and buried at Croyland, This fe is now paid to the lord Rofle, but the Richmount_ _ fe is greater there. There is alfo anoder fee cauld Fepardyne ; and that the lord Linfey had: and the owners of thefe fees be lords of the town of Bofton.—Leland’s Itin. Vol. VIII. p. 124.— Petronii had lands in Hol- bech and Quaplode.—Inquif. Elho, i Ed. III. feod. milit. 42. offic. arm. p. 32. and in Wefton, p. 33, 20, 21, &c. 'Juratores dicunt quod Petroniila de valUhus tenet de domino rege in capite manerium de Warnhurn com. Southampton id in com. Lincoln 22. feod. mil. id dtmid. per Baronium id quod Henricus de Longo Campo eji ejus propinquior heres id astat. 50. id amplius. —Efcaet. 46 Hen. III. N. 5. John de Vaux== owned the ma¬ nor of Friefton, and certain lands in Bofton by gift ofhis mother, in feod'j taliiata, ob. 1288. Roger Penwardyn. Gules, two lions 1 regardant argent. Alice: fhe died 15 May, 1330, was buried in the north fide of the chapel of the Virgin Mary, in Burton Ped¬ wardin, where I faw her tomb-ftone, with this inferip- tion, 1714, a!L 3 i®. f>®Ce®Mt3taD3l3l3. ©pc, 3 icp. D®. ®a. ait^® ©gc- ®®k®|. Petronii = Sir \Villiam de Nereford. William de Roos, lord of Hamlake, 7 Gules, three water-budgets argent, j ~ Maud, beliefs. Matilda, ob. S. P. ^Villiam de Ros. = Margery, one of the coheirefTes of Giles de Badlifmere, lord of Chillham. Their djieen- dants were barons Ros ; and the Manois’s, earls of Rutland, married an heirefs. Thangharat, filler to > i r Walker Pedwardin, alias Lloyd, lived in thel 2 fMaud,dauoh- Thelwell Llewellin, / J caflle of Brampton, in Wigmorland, in the i j terofSirluha prince of Wales. ^ ~ J marches of Wales, called Waugher Thleud by : ~ J Lvn""’" 3 (.reafon of his white hairs. j pain. L anno i340. Roger Pedwardin 11 . he built entirely new the church of Burton") f Pedwardin and St. Mary’s chapel there, being on the north fide; ! _J Alice, daughter of Henrj but the fouth aile, together with the chapel of St. Nicholas, was | *! Longchamp. ^ rebuilt at the fame time by the parilliioners. J ' :58 ITER I. Vainona. Sir Roger Pcdwardin : he died lo Feb. 1368,' buried at Burton: he obtained a bull for| 530 days pardon to all bcnefaftors towards( the church and chapels there. Joint de Markham, J f daughter J,C.Az.onachief of Nicholas Bottom- ar. a demi-lion. J Uell. Agnes, daughter of pliilip Darcv, fjfter and coheirefs of Norman D’arcy, lord Darcy of NotSlon, Azure, feniee de crofs crollets or, three cinquefoils ar. Brian de Pedwardin, Lincoln. efc, II E. HI. N. 4. Robert de Mark¬ ham. Milicent daughter Beckerin. oft I I of Caunton. Sir John? Markham, ju-^ ^(lic.de Banco, j daughter Alice = John de Warbelton. lEliz. daugh- |terandco!iei- .refs of Hugh de Creffy. J Sir Walter Ped¬ wardin, ob. II June, 1405. j r Ifabel,daughterand \ coheirefsof SirRob. J Hilton,and Marga- "Jret, daughter and /coheir of Marma- l^dukeTweng, knt. Sir John Markham, of Netting- > ^ ham: he was lord chief juftice, / I 10 Hen. IV. buried in Sidbrook / \ , . u • r .sf , , r- A '-r, J \ Margaret, coheirels ot church, near Grantham. lhat\_J c- r 1 ’ J • u- r 1 Simon Leek, manor continued m his ramily f till Sir George Markham lately fold it to Sir John Thorold. Walter de Pedwardin. Catharine=David,fon of Sir Daniel I letwick. Elizabeth daugh- I H30;. Sir Robert Pedwardin ,r ob. 26. April, 1432. ter to Sir Edmund ^nes trim, mich, 8 Hen. ( I Pierpoint, knight. IV. Line. ) (, Alatthew Leak. o John de Fleet, of Fram- ton, efq. a lawyer. Ar. two bars fable, each charged with three fcallops of the firft. ■= Katharine. 2= Walter Pedwardin,"J efq ob. 14. Aug. 1 1429, 9 Hen. Vl. ; Ecc. N. 7. J f Katharine daugh- j ter of Ingilby ; of Ripley, near ^Knaresburgh. Beatrice Leak. Roger Pedwardin. Thomas Pedwar¬ din. Chriftopher Pedwardin, of Brompton, Salop, fon and heir, releafed all his right to the manor of Burton Pedwardin, Clauf. 7. Ed. IV. m. 8. Line. Katharine. oanna. Alexander Leak. == Margaret John Qiiickerell, of Bofton = Ann The fite of Rousliall, where the barons Ros lived, is in the parifh of Fiflitoft. In Wainfleet church, the bifhop of Winchefter, whofe name was Patten, founder of Magdalen college, Oxford, erefled a marble monument for his father, where are his coats of arms in the windows. In the town V» /a ITER I. he built a handfome chapel of brick, and endowed it with a pretty good revenue, to pray for his and his anceftors fouls. Now it is made a free-fchool houfe. This place ftill retains its ancient name; fori am certain it is the Vainona mentioned by the famous author of Raveijiia, who has happily preferved fo many of our old Britifli cities. The learned Mr. . Baxter, in his Gloflary of Britifh Antiquities, with a faga- city peculiar to himfelf, has corrected this from Navione. The fea has added much ground to this place fince the Roman times, and then their city flood higher up by the churches, which is a mile off the prefent town. The haven was near St. Thomas church, now called North-holm : it is flill very deep thereabouts, and appears to have been broad, being a pretty good river, whilfl the waters of the eafl fen ran through it, and kept it open: it was thirty foot wide a mile above the churches, as appears by the old doughs there j for they had wifely contrived by that means to keep out the fait water and heighten the frefh, which no doubt would have preferved the haven to this day, had they not foolifhly fuffered the eafl-fen water to be carried to Boflon. It is apparent the natural courfe of water here (as we before obferved of other parts of the level) is eafl- ward; the eafl fen is lower than the weft fen. At Nordike bridge anciently were four arches: the edge of the piers which cut the water was weft- ward; which fhows that the water originally run eaftward, and the whole level was drained that way, though now moil currents i*un to Boflon. The inhabitants have a conftant tradition, that this was a great town; but when the haven was filled up, Boflon became the fea-port: likewife they fay there is a road acrofs the eaft fen, called Salter’s road, which probably was the Roman road; and there are people now alive who knew fuch as had remembered it. Doubtlefs this was a place where the Romans made their fait of the fea water, to fupply all this province; and it is not im¬ probable that this road led to Banovallum, Lindum, &c. Many fait hills are vifible from Wainfleet to Frifkney. The king is flill lord of the foil of this old Roman city. Three miles north, and as much from Skegnefs and the fea, is Burgh, a market-town, whofe name drew my attention. I found it to be a Ro¬ man caftrum to guard the fea-coafls, probably againft the Saxon rovers: it is a piece of very high ground, partly natural, partly raifed by Roman labour, overlooking the wide extended marfhes, perhaps in thofe times co¬ vered with fait water, at leaft in fpring tides. There are two artificial tumuli^ one very high, called Cock-hill. In St. Mary’s church-yard, now demolifhed, Roman coins have been found. I faw a very fair and large Antoninus Pius in brafs, cos. iiii. in pofTeftion of Tho. Linny. In the yards and gardens about the town they frequently dig up bodies. St. Peter’s church is large and good. There appear no Roman ways, ‘uallunit or ditch, to inclofe the town, which is a fort of knoll, or riling ground. I was told of a Roman aquedudl of earth, found at Spilfby. In Plalton church hard by is this infcription on a flat ftone. + Another, a crofs-legged knight: on his fhield a lion rampant. At Hagnaby, a reli¬ gious houfe founded by Agnes de Orreby. Well, by Ralf de Hauvile. Near Well, on a chalky heath, are three curious Celtic barrows contiguous and joined one into another, compofed of chalk: the chalk in Lincolnfliire by Alford anfwers to that in Norfolk. Tatefhall collegiate church founded by Ralf Cromwell. Many tufnuli hereabouts, as at Hagnaby and other places, but none fo remarkable a curioflty as thofe by the broad road upon the defcent of the high country, overlooking the vaft level towards Bofton. I At Burgh, a BlO. fort. 30 Banoval- LUM. I’AB. LXXXIX. ITER I. At Revefby, by the feat of Jofeph Banks, efq; there is an oval inclofed with a broad ditch: the longed diameter, which is fomewhat above 300 foot, is precifely eaft and weft; the other a little above 100 : the entrance to it is on the middle of the fouth fide : within, at each end of the length, is a large tumulus joo foot in diameter : they are equal in fhape and firnilar pofiture, a large vacuum of 100 foot lying between : it is very regularly formed: the length of the oval ditch that inclofes the two tumuli is equal to thrice the breadth ; the tumuli are large and high: that rifing on the north fide, without the ditch, is of an odd figure, but firnilar. It feems to have been a place of fepulture; perhaps two Britifh kings were there buried; and the height on the north fide was the place whereon they facrificed horfes, or the like, to the manes of the deceafed. Or is it a place of religious worfhip among the old Britons ? and the two hills may poffibly be the temples of the Sun and Moon. I am inclined to think it ancient, becaufe of the meafure: the breadth is equal to 100 Celtic feet, as I call them ; the length to 300. Horncaftle was undoubtedly the Banovallum in Ravennas : the latter part of the word is Latin, fo that it fignifies the fortification upon the river Bane. It is of a low fituation, placed in the angle of the two brooks meeting here, the Bane and Waring; whence the modern name Horncaftle, which fignifies an angle, all this country over, as you know in your neigh¬ bouring Cow-hurn, Holbech-hurn, Guy-hurn, See. I will not venture to conceit it came from the ancient way of painting rivers horned, from their windings and turnings; of which we may find a hint in Burton’s Comment, on Antoninus’s Itinerary, pag. 56. and they that pleafe may confult Bochart’s Ploaleg^ II. 22. where are many proofs of the ancients exprelTing an angle by the term horn. Skinner in his Etymologicon rightly affirms it comes from the Saxon word hyrn ; and BElfricus expounds it by the word cornu. It is probable the Romans were induced to make a ftation here at firft from its convenient fituation, eafily rendered defenfible by a vallum drawn acrofs the aperture from one river to the other; and thence came the Roman name. Afterwards they built the indiffoluble ftone wall, whole vcjligia are manifeft the whole compafs round, and in fome places pretty high, as three or four yards, and four yards thick. It ferves for fides of gardens, cellars, out-houfes. See. as chance offers, inclofing the market-place, church, and good part of the town. It is a perfeff parallelogram, compofed of two Iquares: at the angles have been fquare towers, as they report: the gates were in the middle of three fides, and I fuppofe a poftern into the meadows called the Holmes at the union of the two rivulets. I fufpefl originally the river Bane ran nearer to the wall in that part, and behind the manor-houfe: the garden there has been heightened, and the river pufhed farther off, and turned with a larger bow to favour the people who live in Far-ftreet, and efpecially the tanners, who are very numerous there: both rivers probably were wider and deeper than now, as the Celtic name of Bane altus intimates, which at prefent is conform¬ able to reality lower down. Some do not fcruple to affirm it was a fea-port, that is, navigable. The Waring arifes but a mile or two off. The field acrofs it fouth of the town is called the Thowng and Cagthorp, and probably was Vispomreria^ from the Saxon word campus^ ager. Here they find a great number of Roman coins. I faw a brafs coin of Vefpafian ; reverfe, an eagle, consecratio ; dug up from under the walls of Banovallum : Mr. Hograve of the place has it now : but Horncaftle was not built in the time of Vefpafian. I faw, in poffeffion of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, a filver Vefpafian found here; reverfe, a fitting Genius with a fympulum in her Jofeplio Banks BonianorinixlisecVeiti^iacl.tl.^JC^ Stukeley^ y \ ( I S,’ t I I ' '*■ A"- ■'■^^ 4 /' i.' \ . • f ■ i:' V }/ - j < \ »y' ’'., H ■rf .:^r' '■> K- - ■ ■ i ; ’- ' >€'■ r bi<*S >■ %» '•;/* I T E E, I. :,I hand, andcN. ma. In 1734, a girl digging fand by the road fide going from Les Yates to Horncaftle, and near Horncaftle, dug up an earthen urn full of Roman coins, rings, &c. Mr. Terry colleftor gave me fome of them. Near the walls upon digging cellars they fometimes find bodies buried. A rivulet called Temsford runs into the Bane. The fchool lands were given by private perfons, and it was incorporated by queen Elizabeth: their feal is a caftle and hunting-horn : and a horn is the brand for the town cattle upon the common. It is dubious whether Bowbridge has its name from the arch of the bridge, or from its being the entrance into the town from Lindum through the gate called formerly a Bow. This way is the maypole-hill, where probably Rood an Hermes in Roman times. The boys annually keep up the fellival of the Floralia on May day, making a proceffion to this- hill with May gads (as they call them) in their hands : this is a white willow wand, the bark peeled off, tied round with cowflips, a thyrfus of the Bacchanals: at night they have a bonfire and other merriment 5 which is really a facrifice, or religious feftival. The king formerly had this whole town in his pofleffion, until it was bellowed on the bifhop of Carlifle. Near the conflux of the two brooks was lately a pleafant garden, and a place called Julian’s Bower, much talked of. Leak fignifies a watery marfhy place. ¥/rangle an ab A. S. Wear lacus^ and hangel arundo^ lacus arundinibus obfita? Return we to Bollon, Boston. num Sti. Botulphi^ the faint of fea-faring men. St. Botulf (the biihop) his body lay in St. Edmund’s monaftery at Bury. Wm. Malmfb. p. 137. This feems to have been the laft bounds northward of the Iceni in mofl: antient times; therefore its old name was Icanhoe, or Icenorum muni¬ mentum^ as Mr. Baxter interprets it in his Gloflary. I guefs the firft monaftery founded here was on the fouth of the prefent church ; for I faw vaft ftone walls dug up there, and a plain leaden crofs taken up 3 in my pofleflion. Many were the religious houfes here in fuperftitious times, whofe lands were given to the corporation by Hen. VIIL as likewife the eftate of the lord Hufley, beheaded then at Lincoln for rebellion : he lived in one of the houfes where is a great fquare tower of brick, called now Hufley tower. There are many fuch in this country, as that now called Rochford and fometimes Richmond tower, which is very high. Queen Mary was a great benefaftrefs to this corporation, and gave them lands called Erection-lands, to pay a vicar, a lecturer, and two fchool-mafters: they have now a revenue of athoufand pounds per annum. In the parfonage- houfe is a fcutcheon with a paftoral ftalf behind it thus: a fefs charged with a fifh and two annulets between three plates, each charged with a crofs fitche. The church, I think, is the largeft parifh church (without crofs ailes) in the^^^ world: it is a hundred foot wide and three hundred foot long within the walls : the roof is handfomely cieled with Irilh oak fupported by four and twenty tall and flender pillars: many remains of fine brafles in the church, none fo perfect as this in the fouth aile. Under the figures of the man and woman this infcription, €cce fufi hoc lapine henricuief filete fiflit humatuu Pi mo?ti 0 rapiPa gcnerofus fempec Pocitatu0 hie quifqui0 P 0 netj 0 ipfum piecihu0 memoiari0. fponfam Pefunftam fimul aliciam fihi junftam anno mil € quater quaP?agenoque Peno marcia quarto Pie0, ertat ei Eequie0. The tower is the higheft (100 yards) and nobleft in Europe, flattering a weary traveller with its aftonifhing afpedt even at ten miles diftance. It is eafily TAB. III. 2d vol. Kirton. ITER I. cafily feen forty mile round this level country, and farther by fea; the lantern at top is very beautiful, and the thinnefs of the ftone-work is admirable. There was a prodigious clock-bell, which could be heard fix or feven miles round, with many old verfes round it: about the year 1710 they knocked it in pieces, without taking the infcription. Twenty yards from the foundation of this tower runs the rapid Witham, through a bridge of wood. On the fouth fide of the church-yard was, fome few years ago, a curious monument* (as they fay) of one of the builders of the church, in ftone, of arched work, but now intirely demoliflied j and in the mar¬ ket place in my memory was an old and large crofs, with a vault under¬ neath, fteps all around it, and at top a ftone pyramid of thirty foot high, but at this time quite deftroyed. I found here an old brafs feal of .Wil¬ liam Chetwynd, with his coat of arms, A feffe lozenge between three mullets, which I gave to the honourable gentleman of that name. Several frieries here, black, white and grey; of which little remains. Oliver Cromwell, then a colonel, lay in Bofton the night before he fought the battle of Winceby near Horncaflle, 061 . 5. 1643. In North Holland they have a cuftom of pulling geefe twice a year; which has not efcaped Pliny’s notice, X. 22. There is nothing left of the adjacent Swinelhed abbey, founded by Rob. Greifly, but a yew-tree and a knightly tomb fixed in the wall of the new houfe. Here king John fickened in his journey to Sleeford caftle and Newark caftle, where he died. Eafi: of Bofton was a chapel called Hiptoft, and in the town a church dedicated to St. John, but demolifhed. Here was a ftaple for wool and feveral other commodities, and a vaft foreign trade : the hall was pulled down in my time. The great hall of St. Mary’s Guild is now the place of meeting for the corporation and feftions, &c. Here was born the learned John Fox the martyrologift. Queen Elizabeth gave the corporation a court of admiralty all over the fea-coafl hereabouts. Abundance of rare fea-plants grow near this coaft : many fpecies of fea- worm^oods, fcurvy-grafs, criihmum marinum-, atriplex marinum, ^c. of which we may expedl a good account from Dr. Blair of Bofton; as alfo of many rare fifties caught hereabouts. Raja, needk-fijh, Jlar^fiJh, &c. and of the fiickle-back oil is made in very large quantities, the invention of the Ichtyophagi, Pliny XV. 7. Carum n^ulgare. Caraway, grows plentifully in the paftures all about Bofton. Safnbucus foliis •variegatis baccis albis^ Elder-tree with gilded leaves and white berries, in Bofton Fen-ends : a gilded ivy in Mr. Pacey’s garden. Apium palufire Italicum, Selery vulgo diSlum, in all the ditches of Holland. Paronychia folio rutaceo. Rue-leaved whit- low-grafs, on the north fide of walls and houfes. A barberry-tree with¬ out ftones, in Alderchurch parifti. Afparagus fylvefris, wild afparagus, in Gorham wood, Whaplode. Many rare plants in the eaft fen, fuch as fra- iiotes azoides, frefh water fengreen. In the boggy grounds about Tatterfall, Prifohum palujlre, ros folis, virga aureCy myrtus brabantica, pinguicula, afphodelus, adiai'ithum aureum. In the park, androfamum, tutfan : in the ditches hard by, valeriana fylvefris : in the heaths, many forts of erica : fo- lanum kthale about Cowhurn. Pafs we from Bofton by Kirkton, famous for apples, denominated from its fair church built by Alexander, that magnificent bifhop of Lincoln, after the manner of a cathedral with a tranfept. It has a handfome tower ftanding upon four pillars in the middle of the crofs, with a noble ring of five large bells. I obferve, this building is fet upon the ruins of a former church, * That monument in the church-yard was probably that of St. Botulphus, who was buried in this town, and famous for miracles before and after death. //:yjY7tj r IHa/rrli! 33 ITER I. church, part whereof is vifible at the weft end : and in moft of the churches in this country the fame may be difcovered, from the different manner of the architedlure; the moft ancient having fmall windows arched femicircularly j what is additional, to be known by the pointed Gothic arches. This church is very neat both within and without; upon the font is this infcription : + ®?ate pro anima alani burton qui fontem ilium Seri fee. a. 0. mccccii. Againft the north wall is the monument of a perfon in armour, and round it this infcription, + £D?ate p |0 anima 31obanni0 oe ^ere0. The family of the Meres has flouriihed much hereabouts. Upon the edge of Lincolnffiire, in the middle of a vaft fenny level, Crowland is fftuate, memorable for its early religion and the ruins of an „ opulent monaftery, which ftill makes a confiderable profpedf. The abbey land prefents a majeftic view of ruins j founded a thoufand years ago, by AtheU bald king of the Mercians, in a horrid filence of bogs and thorns j made TAB. IV. eminent for the holy retirement of his chaplain Guthlac, who changed the gaieties of the court for the feverities of an anchorite. The king endowed it with a profufe hand, and all the land for feveral miles round the church belonged to it. The foundation is laid on piles of wood drove into the ground with gravel and fand, and they have found feveral of them in tear¬ ing up the ruins of the eaftern part of the church j for what remains now is only part of the weft end ; and of that only one cc-rner in tolerable repair, which is their parilh-church at prefent. It is not difficult at this time to diftinguifti part of the very firft building of this clturch, from that which was built by Ingulphus.^ In the middle of the crofs ftood once a lofty tower and a remarkably line ring of bells, of which there is a proverb in this country ftill remaining : one predigioufly great bell v/as facred to Guthlac : tliey are fakl to have been tire firft peal of bells in the county, perhaps England.'j'* From the foundation of this tower to the weft end, is fomewhat left, but only the walls, pillars, with paffages or galleries at top, and ftair-cafes at the corners. The roof, which was of Irifii oak finely carved and gilt, fell down about twenty years ago : you fee pieces of it in every houfe. The pavement is covered with fhrubs for brafs inferiptions, and people now at pleafure dig up the monumental ftones, and divide the holy fiiipwreck for their private ufes j fo that, inftead of one, moft of the houfes in the town are become religious. The painted glafs was broke by the foldiers in the rebellion, for they made a garrifon of the place. Ail the eaftern part of the body of the church is intirely razed to the foundation j and the afties as well as tombs of an infinite number of illuftrious perfonages, kings, abbots, lords, knights, k,c. there hoping for repofe, are difperfed, to the irreparable damage of Englilh hiftory. The great Waltheof, earl of Northum-berland and Huntingdon, was one of the faints here: he was beheaded by the Norman conqueror. The monaftic buildings, clo^fters, hall, abbot’s lodgings,t and the like, which K no * The old church, built after the Danifli devaftation in 870, was of Turketil’s railing, who died 975. The new part of Crowland abbey was built in 1114. t The names of Croyland bells are mentioned by Ingulf, p. 505- The firft was made by Turketil, Guthlac the greateft: the five others were made by his luccefiTor, abbot Egelric , Bartholomew^ Bettelin^ Turketyl^ Tatwin, Pega and Bcga. X The abbot of Croyland’s chair is at Mr. Dove’s feat at Upton by Peterborough, a defeendant of bifliop Dove’s : upon it, BENEDICITE fontes dno. I fuppofe the abbot’s name was Fountain. 34 ITER II. no doubt were very fine, are abfolutely demoliflied ; no trace thereof left, whereby their extent might: be guefled at. In the north-weft corner of the church ftands a ftrong tower with a very obtufe fpire, and a pleafant ring of fmall bells. Over the weft gate are the images of divers kings, abbots, &c. among the reft St. Guthlac with a whip and knife, as always painted: they were cut in a foft kind of ftone, and drawn over in oil colour with gilding. Not far off the abbey eaftward, upon a hillock, is the remnant of a little ftone cottage, called Anchor Church-houfe: here was a chapel over the place where St. Guthlac lived a hermit, and where he was buried.§ Over- TAB VII weft end of the abbey is the famous triangular bridge: it is too fteep to be commonly rode over j horfes and carriages go under it: it is formed upon three fegments of a circle meeting in one point; they fay each bafe ftands in a different county. The rivers Nyne and Welland here meet. On one fide fits an image of king Athelbald with a globe in his hand. St. Guthlake’s crofs, between Spalding and Crowland, near Brother-houfe and Cloot-bar, ftands upon the fide of the bank, almoft buried under earth: TAB. XL it is a boundary of the church lands: of great antiquity.j| ITER OXONIENSE. II. Sed prior hrec hominis cura eft cog?iofcere terram. Virg. To Mr. JOHN HARDY of Nottingham. I T is commonly remarked, that impreflions of any fort made upon youthful minds laft long; and, like a cut in the bark of tender fprigs, grow deeper and more apparent with advancing years. Crefcent illce crefcetis amores. Virg. The many hours I have fpent with you when I firft began to caft my eyes upon the fcenes of the world, and confider things about me, recur to my mind with pleafure. I fliould be ungrateful then, (to which my temper is moft abhorrent) and I Ihould deny myfelf a particular fatisfadtion, did I not acknowledge the remembrance of a friendfhip now mature: therefore to you I offer the earlieft fruits of it, this fmall account of the firft pleafurable journey I can reckon to myfelf, where I had opportunity for fatisfying my growing curiofity. It is no wonder that your learning, your tafte of antiquities, and all endearing qualities, made me fond of cultivating your acquaintance 3 and perhaps to you in great meafure do I owe what may not be difcommendable in amufements of the following kind, fince our § St. Guthlake’s hermitage ruins pulled down about 1720. II The triangular bridge of Croyland is mentioned in the time of king Edred, anno 948. St. Guthlake’s crofs, Plate XL was fet up by abbot Thurketil a little before that time.—Ingulf, p. 497. b. V 35 I T E 11 II. our convcrfe and our journeying fometimes together, to vifit the remains of venerable antiquity, in my firft years, gave me the love and incitement to fuch purfuits. I am not concerned to make an excufe for the meannefs of this prefent: were it not juvenile, it would not be genuine. As when firff with you, fo fince it has been my method, to put into writing what little remarks I made in travelling : at length I had colledled fo much, that with fome drawings of places and things taken at the fame time, it was judged not unworthy of publication ; my confent was grounded upon hopes that by this means I might give fome account of every part of my time, and that my own pleafures might not be altogether unufeful j efpecially thinking it was nc hard talk to equal fomewhat of this fort lately done, and well received of the public. It is to be wifhed this branch of learning fhould revive among us, which has lain dormant fince the great Camden; fo that either in difcourfing on it, or journeying, we might find fome enter¬ tainment worthy of men of letters. Palling the fenny counterfcarps of Holland, we begin our journey at^TANFcso Stanford, which Hands in a mild air and pleafant country abounding with noblemen’s feats. Many religious houfes have been at Stanford, and once a college founded there, of which they boall much j but of all thefe things we expert Ihortly an exa6l and full account from the reverend Mr. Peck. About 1708, a brafs feal was dug up, in the callle at Stanford, of Thomas bilhop of Elphin in Ireland ; in polfelfion of Ralf Madyfon, efq. Burghley, the earl of Exeter’s, is worth a traveller’s view : the rooms are finely painted by Seignior Varrio : abundance of curious pictures from Italy, col¬ lected by my lord’s grandfather. At St. Martin’s church are the monuments of that noble family. Through a pleafant and woody country, we went to Foderinghay caftle, Fodering- lituate on a branch of the river Nyne, overlooking the adjacent country and wide-extended meadows. The caftle feems to have been very ftrong: there was a high mount, or keep, environed with a deep ditch : the fpace around it is guarded by a wall, double ditch, and the river: it is moftly demolifhed, and all the materials carried off. They pretend to ftiow the ruins of the hall where Mary queen of Scots was beheaded. Some fay king James I. ordered this fortrefs to be deftroyed out of indignation : it was the feat of Edmund of Langley, duke of York, buried in the collegiate church here, a very neat building, founded by Edward duke of York, and here likewife interred: their monuments in the chancel (which was intirely demolilhed at the fupprefiion) were reftored by queen Elizabeth: the windows of the church are filled with very handfome painted glafs, reprefenting the images of cardinals, arch-bifhops, abbots, &c. fuch as St. Denis with his head in his hand, St. Guthlac of Croyland, Richard Scrope arch-biftiop of Canterbury, &c. thefe were faved in the late civil war, by the then minifter of the parifh, with a little money given to the foldiers that came to execute the harmlefs faints. We met with thefe uncouth verfes upon the wall, fhowing the poetry of thofe times ; In feflo Martyrii procejfus Martiniani^ Ecclejia prima fuit hujus petra locata., Anno Chrijli primum centum ac ? 7 iille Cum deca quinta H. V. tunc imminente A*' On the north fide of the church are the remains of the college, and the meadow under it retains its name: the fteeple has an oftagonal tower at the top, fomewhat like that of Bofton j at the bafes of which are the images of OUNDALE Bouchtoh Gedding- TON. ITER II. of bears and ragged ftaffs, cognifances (I fuppofe) of the founders; as the falcon and fetterlock often painted in the glafs. They have a very ancient MS. book here, of the affairs of the pariffi. There is a fchool in the town, eredfed by Hen. VII. worth about 30I. per ann. over the door is wrote, Dijce aut difcede. A If one bridge over the river was built by queen Elizabeth anno 1555. Ihown by an infcription on the wall, a monument of the fpite of the foldiers, who cut out with their fwords, as they palled by, one line of it, God jave the queen. Oundale, or Avondale, is remarkable for a drumming well, much talked of by the fuperftitious vulgar: no doubt it is owing to the palTage of the water, and air upon certain conditions, through the fubterraneous chinks ; for, as Virgil fays,, in his fine poem called Mtna, Sedla ejl omnis humus penitufque cavaia latehrls^ hSc. and that it is done by intervals or pulfes as it were, is but confentaneous to many of Nature’s operations. Here are two long bridges of ftone. Louick church, on the fide of a hill, is very fine, founded by John de Drayton, anno 1125: the windows are full of coats of arms. There is a pidfure of the founder in armour, on his knees, prefenting his church to God : here is his monument, of the Veres too, and Staffords earls of Wiltfiiire, and others who intermarried with his family: there is a modern one of the late Dutchefs of Norfolk, who was married, after her divorcement, to the prefent owner of the family feat, called Drayton houfe, Sir John Germayn, v/ho has for the moll part new-built it. From hence we went to Boughton, the feat of the duke of Montagu, magnificent for building, painting and gardens : the ftables are large and frately, well calculated for the defigned grandeur of the houfe ; for it is not yet finilhed: the hall is a very noble room: on the deling is a convocation of the gods admirably painted, as are many fuites of rooms and apartments, fiair-cafes, galleries, &c. befide the great numbers of portraits and other curious pictures, part of the furniture; the gardens contain fourfcore and ten acres of ground, adorned wdth ftatues, fiower-pots., urns of marble and metal, many very large batons, with variety of fountains playing, aviaries, refervoirs, fiffa-ponds, canals, admirable greens, wildernefies, terraces, &c. the cafcade is very fine : a whole river, running through the length of the gardens, is diverfffied very agreeably to complete its beauty. A mile olf is Geddington, vv^here in a trivium ftands one of the ftone croffes'^ built by king Edward I. in memory of his queen Eleanor, who died at Hareby near Bolingbroke, in Lincolnfhire, 1291. it is formed upon a triangular model, of pretty Gothic architedure to fuit its ftation. Her bowels were buried by the high altar in the Lady’s chapel of Lincoln minfter 5 and in her journey thence to Vfeftminfter, where ever her herfe refted, the king erected one of thefe magnificent erodes, as a monument of his great love : upon them are the arms of England, Caftile, Leon and Poictou. Thefe are the places, as far as I am at prefent informed, Lin¬ coln, Grantham, Stamford,;]: Geddington, Northampton, Stony Stratford, Dunftable, * Of thefe crofles thus Walungliam, Hift. Angl. anno 1291. Dum (rexj finibus Scotias, &c. t Grantham and Stamford were two fiages. Mr. Howgrave fays there was a queen’s crofs at Stanford ; and tlte like is affirmed of Grantham, and that it Rood in the open place in the London road: and I law a ftone, carved with foliage work, faid to be part of it ; and I believe it, ieemmg ot that fort of work; if lo, then Newark and Leicefter muft be left out, and they travelled with the queen’s corpfe by way of Oundle to Geddington from Stanford, I fuppofe the prefent London I ! rji. 37 ITER II.- Dunftable, St. Alban’s, Waltham, Cheapfide over againil; Wood-ftreet, Charing-crofs. Near this place is Boughton, having a petrifying fpring, which forms itfelf a canal of ftone as it runs, confolidating the twigs, mofs, and all adventitious bodies. We faw near the road a fpring-head, with a ftatue of Mofes in the middle of the water, belonging to Boughton houfe. Through Kettering we went to Northampton, the moft elegant townELTABONA in England : which, being wholly burnt down, is rebuilt with great regularity and beauty. There is a fpacious fquare market-place, a fine aflize-houfe of Corinthian architetTure. Allhallow’s church is built after a pretty model, with a cupola and a noble portico before it of eight lofty Ionic columns; upon the baluftrade a ftatue of king Charles II. There is an infeription of John Bailes, aged above 126: his fight, hearing and memory, intire; buried 1706. One of the old churches, St. Sepulchre’s, feems to have belonged to the Knights Hofpitalers of St. John of Jerufalem, of a circular form : there has been another tacked to it of later date, with a choir and fteeple, as to that at Cambridge of the fame name and figure; another fuch I am told is at Guildford, which are all of this fort that I know of in England. I fufpedt thefe are the moft ancient churches in England, and probably built in the later times of the Romans for Chriftian fervice, at leaft in the early Saxon reigns. Weftward are the ruins of the caftle, by the river fide, built by Simon Silvanedt I. earl of Northampton, who founded here likewife St. Andrew’s abbey: his fon Simon Silvanedl II. earl of Northampton and Huntingdon, founded St. Mary de Pres abbey here about 1150. This probably is a Roman town arifing from one of the forts built upon this river, as that great people proceeded northward in the conqueft of the ifland; and being mentioned by Ravennas between Leicefter and Stoney Stratford, it is very likely the Eltabona there, meaning ael, Jupercilium^ and Avon, the river. Roman coins have been found on the other fide the river : there are likewife the footftens of the fortifications round the town, thrown up with baftions in the time of the civil wars. Under thofe on the-fouth fide, defeending into a ftone quarry which has abundance of intricate turnings, I faw a piece of oak wood, as big as both one’s hands, lie between the firata of folid ftone: though petrified, the ligneous fibres when fplit w^ould burn in a candle. I fuppofe it^o have been lodged there in the deluge. A little way from the tovv^n, about Sprotton, are the pits where they dig up tobacco-pipe clay. Near ^ Billing, about three miles from Northampton, not far from the earl of Twomond’s feat, was lately found a mine of copper, and coal, and marble, as they told me. From Northampton, over the river, by a large ftone bridge where is an old religious houfe, half a mile off in the London road, is another of queen Eleanor’s ftone crofles, called-Queen’s crofs, with her images and arms. It ftands on a hill in the open country upon eight fteps, in form much like that of Waltham, of which I have given a print. On the TAB. XII. other fide of the town, about three miles diftance, is Holdenby houfe, L which London road from Stanford being unpaffable, or not having at tliat time roya! feats, manf.rs. or abbeys, by the way, fufficient to entertain the cavalcade. Mr. Peck, in his Stanford Antiquities, afferts Grantham and Stanford two of the ftages, and where crofles were eredled, no 'doubt, that at Grantham Rood in the open London road before my neighbour Idacket’s houfe, calledPeter-church hill ; and the people have fome memory of it. Mr. Peck puts in Wo¬ burn between Dunftable and St. Alban’s ; upon what authority I know not.—Geddington was a manor of the king’s, V. RegIft. Hon. Richmond, p. 280.—tamden in his Remains, p. 208, who doubtlefs had feen them, inferts Grantham and Stanford, V. p. 116. 38 ITER II. which lies in noble ruins: here king Charles L was kept prifoner. A little way ofr is Naleby,^ where the bloody and fatal battle happened between his forces and thofe of the parliament, upon a fine plain where at prefent ftands a windmill: the marks of feveral great holes appear, where the flain were buried. This town, as near as may be, is the Guildsbo- navel of England. Near is Guiklsborough, fo named from a Roman RouGH.Ro-camp of a fquare form, and deep ditch, called the Burrows. I was told of man Camp, thereabouts, which I fuppofe thofe made in the time of Oftorius about the heads of the rivers here; which all together made a fort of fortification between the north and fouth parts of the kingdom, efpecially between the Avon and Severn. A long barrow at Pesford, called Long¬ man’s hill. We faw Althorp, a curious feat of the earl of Sunderland’s, elegantly furni fhed : there is a fine gallery adorned with good pictures, and a noble library. Eston. My lord Lemfter’s feat, now earl of Pomfret, near Towcefter, is a ftately building, and ftands pleafantly, encompafled with good plantations of wood, vifto’s and agreeable profpedts. In the grand view to the back front, beyond the garden, is a large and long canal: in the houfe are feveral curious picfures; an original, of Sir Paul Ricot; of a pillar of Perfepolis, one of thofe fixty foot high; Perfeus looking Andromeda, by Giofeppi Cari; a copy of Galatea, from Raphael: but what highly inhances the glory of this feat, is the vaft number of Roman and Greek marbles, ftatues, bufio’s, bas reliefs, &c. part of the mofc noble colledlion of the great earl of Arundel. My lord has it in his thoughts to build a large room, or gallery, to receive this invaluable treafure; at prefent they are for the mofi: part expofed to the weather in the garden. I fiiall curforily name them all with the hafte of a traveller, though each fingle piece merits a ferious view, and a long defcription. At the end of the fide terrace in the garden, and near the houfe, Rands an intire column of marble in two pieces, fluted, taken from among the ruins of the temple of Apollo at the ifle of Delos, where many now lie : this is fet upon a proper bake and pedeftal made purpofely for it; the capital is unufual, but very beautiful, and feems perfectly to anfwer that defcription which Vitruvius gives us, IV. i. of the origin of the Corinthian capital from the conceit of Callimachus, who was pleafed with the appear¬ ance of a balket covered v/ith a tile, and luckily fet upon the middle of a root of acanthus^ or brank urfm., which fliot up its curled leaves around it in a delicate and tender manner: upon it ftands a flatue, the upper part naked. In the niches of that wall along the w^alk are feveral broken ilatues of goddefies, naked or in fine drapery, where the mind is divided between the pleafure of feeing what remains and the grief for what is loft. Upon the ftairs that defcend into the garden are a great many whole and broken ftatues, pieces of baJJ'o relievo., altars, urns, tombs, &c. fuch as the deftrudfion of Troy, reprefen ted in the Trojan horfe, the merriment of the Trojans, the daughter of Priamus, Achilles driving his chariot with Hedtor tied to it : there is another bas-relief of a battle ; a figure recum¬ bent at dinner ; two figures in proceftion, but covered over with mofs ; four figures, two with Phrygian bonnets ; good pieces of cornice-work, with mouldings of ovolo’s, bead-moulds, &c. a tomb, the huiband and wife with the fon between ; a piece of Bacchanalians ; the end of a tomb, or vafe ; a malk and revelling figures; an horfeman and footman engaging. Moft * At Nafeby, round the font an infcription, NITON 39 I T E 11 II. Moftof thefe antiquities feem of the higheft Greek times. Before the fteps upon pedeftals are two Egyptian fphynges mitred, and two Mufes fitting: other things thereabouts are a fea-horfe in baflb 3 a man carrying another 5 a capital of a pillar made of a horfe’s head, with branches coming out of his mouth like them at Perfepolis, a dog’s head on one angle, and lions on the other: upon it are bulls and heads : over that is a portal of a monu¬ mental flone, with a woman and two children, the tomb of fome player, with fine baffos of mafks, the bufto of the deceafed 3 four Genii 3 two lions devouring horfes, finely cut; over it a prieftefs by the fide of a tem¬ ple : eight round altars or pedeflals adorned with bulls heads, feftoons, &c. which ftand upon the piers of the flairs : upon and about them are other antiquities, fuch as the bottom part of Scylla 3 three monflers like dogs devouring three men 3 a receiver for an urn. Cupid adeep lies upon this. On the north fide the front of the houfe, a tomb 3 another capital of a horfe’s head, &c. over it a baflb of Venus riding on a fea-horfe, a Cupid driving 3 a lion over it 5 two Cupids, alto relievo : fome bufls over the win¬ dows 3 a young Nero, Faunus, &c. At the fouth end of the houfe, on the ground, an old headlefs flatue : upon the bafement, a tomb of a boy wrought in channel-work, his buflo in baflb upon it: over the windows a fmall flatue 3 a woman with a child in her arms 3 a tomb 3 another capital from the temple of Apollo at Delos 3 a Greek mafk. Next let us defcend into the garden along the middle walk. In the par¬ terres about the fountain ftand four Greek ftatues very intire, bigger than the life, of mofl admirable art: they are dreffed in matron-like robes, or outer garments, in mofl comely folds, yet cut fo exquifitely, that the folds of the inner drapery appear, and the whole fliape of the body, as if tranfparent: they cannot be fufficiently commended. Between them and the houfe on the fouth hde, is that celebrated flatue of Cicero intire, with his fudarium in his right, and a fcroll in his left hand ; the fight of the eyes is cut hollow. I could not polTibly excufe my felf half a quar¬ ter of an hour’s ferious view of this mafler-piece, frequently going round it: where fo much feeming fimplicity of the carver, has called forth all the fire of that divine genius that could make flatues hear, as this artifl has made them fpeak, and left an eternal monument of contention between him and the great orator: it grieved me to think it fhould fland a day longer in the open air. Anfwering to this on the left, is another flatue of more robufl fliape and workmanfhip : his left hand holds a fcroll, his right is laid in a paflionate manner upon his breafl: if finewy mufcles denote one that worked on the anvil, it may poflibly be Demoflhenes. The two next that correfpond beyond the fountain, are Scipio Africanus and Afia- ticus, in an heroic drefs. Beyond, on each fide the fteps going down to the lower garden, are two colojji^ Fabius Maximus the cunbtator, and Archimides with a fquare in his hand. At each end of this crofs-walk, or terrace, which terminates the middle or principal one, is built a handfome ftone-work with niches and pediment fupported with pilaflers, contrived on purpofe to receive other pieces: in that oh the left hand, or north fide, is the tomb of the famous Germanicus, adorned with carving of bas-relief: upon it two admirable bufls of him and Agrippina his wife. Between thefe upon the tomb flands an altar-like pedeflal with a fmall and ancient flatue of Jupiter fitting. In the pediment over the arch is a curious piece of marble, whereon is raifed the upper part of a man with his arms and hands extended, and the impreffion likewife of a foot: this I fuppofe the original 40 ITER II. original ftandard of the Greek meafure. Upon the apex of the pediment is a fine ftatue of Apollo with the right arm naked, the other covered with a mantle: below the hips it ends in a terminus ; fo that it is an HermapoUon. In two niches here, are two large and curious trunks, as fine as the loquacious Pafquin or Marforio at Rome. Upon the two outermoft pi- lafters are two other beautiful trunks. At the corner of this terrace is an altar. At the other end of this crofs walk, under the ftone-work is a mar¬ ble chair with an infcription on the back of it, denoting that it belonged to the high-prieft of Ifis, as faid j for it is obliterated : it is remarkably eafy to fit on : the fides are embofl'ed with winged fphynges. On each fide of it are two fitting fragments. Upon the top of this ftone-work is a very large and curious Greek ftatue of Pallas, colofs proportion, naked arms, a plumed helmet on her head, the Gorgonian on herbreaft: the very marble is not without its terror. We fhall now pafs through the houfe. The hall is a fine lofty room : in the niches are feveral ftatues; a Greek lady with her arms folded under the drapery, which with that of the under garment are perfeftly feen through the robe ; Caius Marius in a fenatorial habit; Cupid afleep, leaning on his torch: M. Antony, a naked figure j all thefe as big as the life: over the chimney-piece, a little Hercules tearing the lion; feven buftos, an excellent one of Pindar; one faid to be of Olympias, I fancied it Lucretia. By the great flairs, painted in frefco by Sir James Thornhill, two buflos, one of the Grecian Venus. In niches upon the flairs, fix flatues as big as the life : Diana in a hunting-habit, a tuck’d-up coat, bulkins of fkins ; a lady in Greek drapery; the Venus de Medicis ; Paris with a mantle, the Phrygian bonnet, and odd flockings of the Dacian mode; (this is a flatue of great antiquity ;) a nymph with a long flowing garment tied under the breafl, a fine turn of the body; a man, the right Ihoulder naked. In the little dining-room, over the chimney, an antique marble vafe. In the green-houfe I fav/ thefe following ; a Flora, the upper part loft ; mofl: inimitable drapery to fliov/ the naked, like the celebrated one at Rome : a colofs head of Apollo, from the collar bone to the crown of the head three foot; the body is faid to lie among many more under Arundel houfe in London ; the trunk of Camilla, both arms : a young Bacchus. Towces- Towcefter is a pretty town, of Roman antiquity : through it in a flrait Ron^^^Uine runs the Watling-ftreet. Edward the elder built the mount called Berry hill when he fortified the town againft the Danes. Roman coins have been oft found at this place.* The inhabitants here, both old and .young, are very bufy in a filken manufadlure, and making of lace. This town has been ditched about on the weft fide; every where elfe guarded by the rivers. Bucking¬ ham. Alaun A. TAB. V. VI. 2d Vol. From hence we went through fpacious woods to Buckingham. There was a caftle before the Conqueft, but now fcarce to be known. The church is well built, particularly the chancel: they fliowed us a place called St. Rumbald’s Ihrine, where his coffin was taken up. St. John Baptifl’s chapel, built, as faid, by archbifliop Becket, is now a free Ichool. From this place we travelled upon a Roman road. Entering Oxfordlhire, we faw on our right the park called Caversfield, which antiquaries fay was the place where Alledfus flew Caraufius. This is near Bicefler, which I vifited big with expedlation of finding fomewhat confiderable from a conflux of towns’ names that promifed much. I obferved _ * The Rev. Mr. Bertie of Uffington gave me 1735, feveral Roman coins found in this city; a very fair fiver Hadrian, imp. caisar traian hadrianvs avg. reverfe, a fitting iigure. pm trp cos. hi. Pr0p€6t of /?tar . ^laima.. I 41 ITER II. obferved Lawnton hard by, which feemed to confirm Mr. Baxter’s conjec¬ ture of Alauna hereabouts. Chefterton, Aldchefter, and Wandlebury, were fpecious marks for enquiry ; but I find they all depend upon Ald¬ chefter, where was the undoubted Alauna of Ravennas, mentioned thus in that valuable author. Next to London, Tamefe, Branavis, Alauna ; of all which I fhall give an account in this journey. South of Bicefter about a mile, two Roman roads crofs one another at akeman- right angles, in the middle of a large and beautiful meadow j the Akeman- street. ftreet running eaft and weft, and another diredtly north and fouth: the firft comes out of Buckinghamftiire, I imagine from Fenny Stratford through Window ; palTes by here at Longford, over Bicefter river, under the north fide of Gravenhall hill; fo proceeds by Aldchefter, Kirklington, to Wood- ftock park, and fo to Cirencefter : the other crofles it at Aldchefter, run¬ ning directly through the middle of the city j then through the fouthern meadow belonging to Wandlebury, where it is vifible enough to a nice eye, the grafs being poor, and much abates of the verdure for its whole breadth : then entering a pafture, it is very plain, being elevated into a ridge of a hundred foot breadth, and two little ditches all along the fides : it leaves Marton on the eaft and Fencot, making fords over the brooks, paved with great broad ftones its whole breadth j then proceeds the length of Ottmore, a fpacious level, marfh or meadow, two or three miles together, where its ridge is plain, though broken by many Houghs ; then through Beckly by the park wall j then under Shotover hill, and fo, I fuppofe, pafies the Thames at Sandford below Oxford. Northward from Alauna it proceeds through the northern meadow belonging to Chefterton and Bicefter, where the ftones it is compofed of may be feen in the little ditches they have dug upon each fide; then it enters the lane, and goes on the weft fide of Bicefter town, at fome little diftance, and ftrait forwards on the eaft of Caverfield park by Stretton Audley, where many Roman coins have been found ; and fo to Radley by Buckingham, being now the great high l oad between the two towns, of which we may fay, in the poet’s words, Scilicet bac avi Jiravit longinqua vetujlasy Heu nimis ex vero nunc ea flrata jacent I The city called now Aldchefter is a parcel of ploughed field, on the fouth fide of the Akeman way, a mile at leaft fouth of Bicefter : it ftands in the middle of the meadow, which is very level, more efpecially ftretching itfelf north and fouth of the city. I know not whether the ground which is the fite of the city be naturally higher, or raifed by the ruins and rubbifli thereof: but, if any, this deferves to be called urbs pra- tenjis. I can fcarce believe that this meadow was fo fubjedl to inundations as now, at the time of fetting the city here ; and I never obferved the like pofition elfewhere, when there is higher ground near enough : it may be thought rather a city of pleafure than ftrength. A very little way off to the eaft is Gravenhall hill, a copped hill curioufly covered with wood and hedge-rows : beyond it is Berry hill, or vulgarly the Brill, guarded at top with one of their camps. A little brook comes from Chefterton, a mile off, and runs on the fouth fide of the city j for between that and the Akeman way is it placed. When I came upon the fpot, I foon found it by the prodigious blacknefs and richnefs of the earth, as they were ploughing; and this fhows it to have been once in a very flourifhing condition and populous; for the fund of nitrous particles and animal falts lodged in this earth are inexhauftible. The fite of this city is a common, belonging to M the 42 ITER II. the inhabitants of Wandlebury, and every one has a certain little portion of it to plough up } whence we may well imagine the land is racked to the lall extremity, and no great care taken in the management of it: yet it bears very good crops of wheat. As I traverfed the fpot, at every ftep I faw pieces of pots and vehels, of all forts of coloured earth,* red, green, and fome perfedlly of blue clay, that came from Aynhoe : I picked up feveral parcels, thinking to have carried them away, till I perceived them ftrown very thick over the whole field, together with bits of bricks of all forts : the hulbandmen told me they frequently break their ploughs againft foundations of hewn flone and brick; and we faw upon the fpot many paving flpnes with a fmooth face, and laid in a very good bed of gravel, till they draw them all up by degrees, when the plough chances to go a little deeper than ordinary. Infinite numbers of coins have been found, and difperfed over the adjacent villages without any regard j and after a fhower of rain now, they lay, fometimes they find them : I got two or three of Tetricus jun. See. A good while ago, they dug up a glafs urn full of allies, laid in a cavity cut out of a ftone: I went to fee the ftone, ufed as a pig-trough, at Wandlebury, in which office it has ferved ever filice Dr. Plot’s time j for 1 find he mentions it, page 329 ; it is fquarifh, the cavity is roundifh, nine inches deep, and a foot diameter ; but the urn was broke and loft. I heard likewife, by enquiry, that they have found braft images, /ares, and all forts of antiquities, which I encouraged them to preferve for the future. This city was fenced with a bank and ditch quite round : it is a fquare of one thoufand foot each fide, ftanding upon the four cardinal points: the vallum and ditch are fufficiently vifible, though both have met with equal change j the vallUm^ from the plough, which levels it to a certain quantity every year j and the inundation of the meadow raifes the ditch ; thefe are moft eafily dilcernible at the corners, for there they are ftill pretty perfefl, and fo notorioufty, that the country people tell you in thofe jiaces were four towers to defend the city. This little brook, that runs on the fouthern ditch, encompaffed the city quite round originally ; the track of the way that palfes the city in the middle from fouth to north, is ftill very high raifed, and another ftreet crofted it the contrary way in the middle, and fo went eaftward, meeting the Akeman in its way to Langford : thefe were the two principal ftreets, and doubtlefs there were others j and great foundations are known to be all around in the meadows, efpecially northward and eaftward upon both fides the Akeman. On the weft fide of the city, a little diftance from the ditch, is an artificial hill in tlte very middle of the meadow which they call the Caftle hill, and is full of Roman bricks, ftone, and foundations. I attentively confidered this place: the circuit of it is very plain and definable; it was a fquare of two hundred foot: I guefs it originally to have been feme confiderable building in the middle of an area^ or court; whether a pretorium^ or a temple, might probably be afeertained lipbn digging: the edge of the area is very diftindt upon the meadow, by the difference in the colour of the grafs, the one gray, the other green ; but the main body of the building reached not fo far, but lies in a great heap of rubbifh, much elevated, and of much lefs extent: before it, to the fouth, has been another area, paved with a bed of gravel, at leaft above a hundred foot broad: 1 doubt not but a curious perfon, that will be at the expence of digging this plot, would find it * Jan. 1718, between Broatlwel and Stow in the WoH, Gloticeftetihire, a countryman digging a ditch to divide a pafture, tound an urn of a green colour : at top it had foliage work ; in it thirty pound weight of copper Roman coin, which he fold for fix-pence per pound. About a .dozen were fent to Dr. Mead, of Conftans, Conflantine, and Magnentius. 43 ITER II. it well worth his while. This is the fum of what I obferved at the place ; whether the prefent name be Alcefter, as retaining any thing of the Latin, or Aldcefter, fignifying the old city, I difpute not; but think it has no manner of relation to Alle6tus that flew the brave Caraufius. The name of Akeman way I am fit to think a vulgar error, as commonly imagined from going to the Bath more probably it is ag maen^ the ftony aggcr^ or ridge ; this is confirmed by the people calling the other road too, that goes north and fouth, by the fame name, Akeman-ftreet. There has been a religious houfe at Bicefter near the church, a priory of St. Eadburg, founded by Gilbert Bafl'et. This town is famous for excellent malt liquor, of a delicate tafle-and colour. From hence we journeyed by Aynhoe, where is a vein of ftiff clay, exceeding blue: at Souldern is a curious barrow, neatly turned like a bell, fmall and high; I believe it Celtic. Then climbing for a long while together, we afcended Bury hill, a village upon the higheft copped Burykh ill mountain in the country : it is vulgarly called the Brill, as Mr. Camden takes notice: this has a vafl: profpedd: over Bernwood, Ottmore, and the whole country, bounded only by the fuperior Chiltern, feven miles off, which hence has a mofl: notable afpedl, and ends infenfibly at the eaffern and weftern horizon, diminifhing regularly all the way: at the top of the Brill, by the church, I favv parcels of the old Roman camp, which has been modernifed with additional baftions in the civil wars. Before the Conquefl, here was a palace of Edward the Confeffor. Much Roman coin has been found hereabout. Below here, two or three miles off, Hands Tamefe, now Tame, uponTAWEsE. the fide of a meadow ; a pleafant town, confiding of one long and broad Tx\B. VIL flreet, running north-eaft and fouth-weft : behind lie the fmiling arable ^ fields : it is almofl: encompafled with rivulets. This was called a burg in the time of Edward the elder, anno 921, who befieged the Danes here, and took the burg, or caftle. I faw infinite quantities of the cornu ammonis^ a foot and half or two foot diameter, laid in the roads among rubble done to mend them: all the quarries hereabouts abound with them of all dimen- fions. Here is a fine large church in form of a crofs: in it many brafles and old monuments : fomc I tranfcribed. I’home lie Grey Jilii Roberti dni, ds Grey Retherfeld militis obiit anno dni. millejimo ccc. Another thus. O certyn deth that now had overthrowe Richard Qi^atremayns fquier and Sibil his wyf that ly her now full lowe That with rial prinfes of councel was true and wife famed To Richard duke of Yorke and after with his fone king Edward IIII named That founded in the chyrche of Tame a chantrye fix pore men and a fraternity In the \vorfhip of St. Chridofere to be relieved in perpetuitye They that of their almys for their fowles z. pater nojier and ave devoutly wul feye Of holy fadurs is granted them pardun of days xl alway Which Richard and Sibil out of this world pafled in the yer of our lord M. cccclx. upon their fowles jhu have mercy amen. Another thus. Orate pro animabus Galfredi Dormer mercatoris Stapile ville Calis & Margere & Micie uxoris ejus qui quidem Galfridus ob. 9 Mar. 1502. quoricm ammabus * /tihay in Irifh, is a dike, mound, or bank. 44 ITER II. animabas propkietur deus amen. There are the images of twenty-five children upon this ftone. Johnlord Williams of Tame baronet, baron of Tame, ob. 14 O^. 1559. Here lyeth Sir John Clerk of Northwefton knight which tuke Lovys of Orleance duke of Longuevill and marquis of Rotelin pryfoner at the jour- ny of Bomy by Tyrvain the xvi day of Auguft in the v yer of the reign of the noble and victorious king Henry viii. which John decefed the v day of April 1539. There is an abbot (I fuppofe) in itone in the church wall of the fouth tranfept within fide: near the church are the ruins of a priory built by Alex¬ ander bifhop of Lincoln. At Notely, not far off, is another. A pot of Roman money was found at Sherburn in this neighbourhood laft year. Is LIP. Ifiip is memorable for the birth of Edward the Confelfor. The font which flood in the king’s chapel, as flill called, where he was baptifed, is removed : but that font in Dr. Plot feems not of fuch antiquity. There are fome remains of an ancient palace. Oxford. Oxford requires a more elaborate defcription than a ftranger can poffibly give; and indeed fo numerous are the colleges and halls, that one can fcarce get a tolerable idea of them in the three days I flaid here. The profpeCl of this place from Shotover hill is very inviting, nor is our expec¬ tation fruflrated when in the place. The bridge over the Cherwel is a flately work, twice as broad as London bridge. Magdalen college, the legacy of our countryman, William of Wainflet, which he endowed with a princely hand, defervedly is thought one of the nobleft foundations in Europe : the old oak is flill left, nigh which he ordered it to be built. A vafl traCl of ground is inclofed with a caflellated wall for gardens. On the other fide the river is a park too, with long fhady walks, but too near the water, wherein likewife more refembling thofe of Academus by Athens. The chapel is large and magnificent: the tower is a lofty flrong work, in it a fine ring of bells: the whimfical figures in the quadrangle, over the but- treffes, amufe the vulgar; they are the licentious inventions of the mafon. Over-againfl this is the phyfic garden, whofe curiofities Mr. Bobart fhowed us, and his own : fince his death, its purpofe is not fo well executed. Here are remarkably fine greens in all the gardens at Oxford, efpecially in yew : the two piers here, with flower-pots on them, are thought to exceed ; but the two yew men (as one waggiflily called them) that guard the door, are ridiculous; the archite6lure of thefe gates is, I fuppofe, of Inigo Jones: two fphynges at the entrance are properly placed: thefe are without the city walls. Univerfity college has a new quadrangle built by legacy of Dr. RadclifFe ; but I think uniformity, in this and other flru6lures in the univerfity, no fufflcient reafon for iifing the old manner of building. Queen’s college over-againfl; it is of a good tafle, improved to its prefent fplendor under the aufpices, and in great degree at the charge, of the late Dr. Lancafler. The library, the hall, and chapel, arc beautiful. The old gatehoufe has a pretty cieling over it of flone ; they fay it was the chamber of Harry the Vth’s uncle and tutor. Behind it is New college; a large chapel, a good vifto to the garden, in which is a pleafant mount: this was the foundation of William of Wickham, bifiiop of Winchefter : it ftands in an angle of the old city walls. At All Souls a new court is building, but in the anachronifm of the Gothic degenerate tafle: the new library is a fpacious room, the legacy of colonel Coddrington: the chapel is very elegant j the altar, entirely of marble, was made at the charge of George Clark, efq. one of the fellows. Chrifl church, the magnificent work of cardinal 45 ITER II. cardinal Wolfey: the ftoiie cieling over the entrance to the hall is very pretty; the new quadrangle, defigned by the learned Dr. Aldrich, is beautiful. St. John’s college has two handfome quadrangles, the portico’s* built by archbilhop Laud : two fine ftatues, in brafs, of king Charles I. and his queen, probably defigned by Inigo Jones. But it is impoffible for me to run through the whole of this fplendid univerfity, which I leave as a fitter talk for fome of her own learned fons. The fchool is a large building; the Bodleian library, an immenfe ftore-houfe of moil valuable books and manufcripts, the donation of archbifliop Laud, the earl of Pembroke, O. Cromwell, Selden, Digby, Bodley, and other great names: over it is a fpacious gallery, adorned with piftures of founders, benefactors, and others, and with the antique marbles which were the learned part of the inexhauftible colledtion of the earl of Arundel: thefe have been illuf- trated with the accurate comments of Selden and Prideaux. Here are fome of the moft valuable Greek monuments now in the world. Over the porch, upon a handfome pedeftal of black marble, ftands the brafs effigies of the earl of Pembroke, their noble and generous chancellor, given by the prefent earl: this was moulded by Rubens. Here is likewife a very large colledtion of Greek, Roman , Britifh, Saxon, Engliffi, and other coins, prefented by feveral hands. The divinity fchools, hnifhed by Humphry the good duke of Gloucefter, has a very curious ftone roof. The Aihmoiean repofitory, belide fome good books, papers and MSS. of the founder, has a large colleftion of rarities in antiquity, nature and art, &c. fuch as ori¬ ginal pictures of famous men, marbles of old Egyptian carving in figures and hieroglyphics, a fine marble infeription in Arabic, which was over the door of a fchool at Tangier ; an Egyptian mummy, being a man drelfed like orus Apollo ; the cradle of Henry VI. the hat of Bradfhaw' plaited Vvdth Reel within, under which he fat in judgment upon king Charles I. a vaffi fund of precious and other flones, &c. v/hich it is impoflible to enumerate. Here is, befide, a choice apparatus of inftruments for chymiftry and experimental philofophy under the direction of Mr., Whitefide. The print- ing-houfe is a good building with a bold portico, but next the fchools difgraced with a wretched flatue of my lord Clarendon. Between thefe two laft and the fchools Rands the Sheldonian theatre, the firR piece of architedfure of Sir ChriRopher Wren, a fpacioUs and Well-proportioned room: it is worth while to go upon the top of it, to fee the carpentry of the roof, and the fine profpedt of the city and country thence. Before Baliol college they fhowed us the Rone in the Rreet which marks the place of the barbarous martyrdom of the venerable archbifliop Cranmer and bifhop Ridley, then upon the banks of the ditch without the walls of the city, which went along where the theatre now Rands. Beyond the river, amongR meadows encompaffied with rivulets. Rood Ofeney abbey, founded by Robert D’oyley 1129.* upon the bridge is a tower called Friar Bacon’s Study, from that famous and learned monk, who in dark ages had pene¬ trated fo far into the fecrets of nature. Oxford, no doubt, means no more than the pafiage over the river Ox, Oufe, or Ifis, which are equivalents. Over another bridge of the Ifis we went to fee Ruleigh abbey, where fome ruins and parcels Rill remain, turned to a common brew-houle: a disjointed Rone in a partition w^all preferves this monumental infeription, Cla0 B0 COUlitiOTaC tilfccta funt fife. This Ela was daughter of Wil. Longfpee earl of Salifbury, and wife of Thomas de Newburgh the laR earl • N of * The countefs cf Warwick was abbefs here. T\Ur. B. XIII. 5. Bibl. Cotton, is her elegium. 46 Wood- stock. I T E 11 II. of Warwick of that name: flie died on Sunday the fifth of the ides of February, 26 Ed. I. 1297. fhe gave lands to this abbey, and founded a chapel here, as appears by an infcription dug up 1705. her body was buried before the high altar at Ofeney, her heart in this place. Of the caftle there is a fquare high tower remaining by the river fide, and a lofty mount or keep walled at top, with a ftair-cafe going downward: this feems to have been a very flrong place, built by Robert de Oili in the time of William the Conqueror. If there was a town here in Roman times, it feems to have been in this quarter. The White-friars was a royal palace; and near a green called Beaumonds, they fhowed us the bottom of a tower upon the ground where the valiant Richard 1 . Cceur de lio 7 i^ was born. Without the town on all fides may be feen the remains of the fortifications raifed in the time of the civil wars. It is in vain to pretend in this paper to enumerate the parti¬ cular remarkables of every college, which are eighteen in number, and feven halls: thefe for beauty, grandeur, and endowment, no doubt, exceed any thing: their chapels, halls, libraries, quadrangles, piazzas ; their gardens, walks, groves, and every thing, contribute to make the firft univerfity in the world. As to the city, though the colleges make up two thirds of it, and are continually eating it away, in buying whole ftreets for enlargement j yet it is large, regular, and crouds itfelf out proportionably : the ftreets are fpacious, handfome, clean, and ftrait; the whole place pleafant and healthful; the inhabitants genteel and courteous : the churches are many and elegant enough, efpecially Allhallows, a neat fabric of modern architedlure, with a very handfome fpire. St. Peter’s in the eaft is venerable for its antiquity : the eaft end by its fabric appears prior to the time of the Conqueft. Leaving this famous repofitory of learning, we faw on our left hand, on the other fide of the river, the laft ruins of Godftow nunnery, placed among the fweet meadows: here fair Rofamond, the beloved miftrefs of Henry 11 . had a tomb remarkably fine j but befoi e the diflblution, fcarce could her afhes reft, whofe beauty was thought guilty even after death. At Woodftock we faw part of the old palace, and her famous labyrinth, which is since deftroyed: her bathing-place, or well (as called) is left, a quadrangular receptacle of moft pure water, immediately flowing from a little fpring under the hill, and over-fliadowed with trees : near it fome few ruins of walls and arches. King Ethelred called a parliament here; it has been a royal feat from moft ancient times: Henry I. inclofed the park. A-crofs this valley was a remarkably fine echo, that would repeat a whole hexameter, but impaired by the removal of thefe buildings. A (lately bridge from hence now leads along the grand approach to the prefent caftle : one arch is above a hundred foot diameter: a cafeade of water falls from a great lake down fome stone fteps into the canal that runs under it. The new palace is a vaft and magnificent pile of building; a royal gift to the high merit of the invincible duke of Marlborough; the lofty hall is painted by Sir James Thornhill; the falon by la Guerre: the rooms are finely enriched with marble chimney-pieces and furniture, but more by the incomparable paintings: many of Rubens’s beft and largeft pieces; that celebrated one of himlelf, his wife, and child, among others; Vandyke’s king Charles I. upon a dun horle, of great value; and the famous loves of the Gods, by Titian, a prefent from the king of Sardinia. The gallery I admired beyond any thing I have feen, lined with marble pilafters and whole pillars of one piece, fupporting a moft coftly and beautiful entablature, excellent for matter and workmanfliip; the window frames of the fame. 47 ITER II. and a balement of black marble quite round. Before it is ftretched out a mod: agreeable profpecl of the fine woods beyond the great valley ; it is indeed of an admirable model: this, and what is of the mod elegant tade in the whole houfe, is of the duchess’s own designing. The chapel is not yet finifhed, and which I doubt not will be equal to the red. The garden is a large plot of ground taken out of the park, and may dill be faid to be part of it; well contrived by dnking the outer wall into a fofs, to give one a view quite round, and take od the odious appearance of confinement and limitation to the eye, and which quite fpoils the pleafure and intention of a garden : within, it is well adorned with walks, greens, efpaliers, and vido’s to diverfe remarkable objedls that offer themfelves in the circumjacent country. Over the pediment of this front of the houfe is a curious budo in marble of the French king, bigger than life, taken from the gate of the citadel of Tournay. The orangery is a pretty room. At the entrance hither from the town, her grace has eredfed a noble triumphal arch to the memory of the duke, and has projedled a vad obelilk to be fet in the principal avenue in the park, whereon is to be infcribed an account of his great adlions and ability in council, and in war. Near the gate is the houfe where our famous Chaucer was born : methinks there was fomewhat poetical in the ground that fird gave him birth, and produced thefe verfes, which I afk pardon for inferting, upon a fubjedl which his genius only could be equal to: Fame, like the optic artift, ^ont to /well Fhe object larger to the armed eye. Sing on, and mighty MatdhorouglSs aSlions tell: Secure from Jlattery m words abound. And let thy trumpet diapafons found j Speak but e?iough of him, 'tis all reality. Through the park we eroded again the Akeman-dreet, which runs all along with a perfedt ridge made of done, dug every where near the furface; it bears between north-ead and ead: it is a foot-path dill through the park with a dile, and a road beyond it by which it palfes to Stunsfield, Stuns- where are marks of an intrenched work, once a Roman dation : and in the^iEi-»» place they found (the 25th Jan. 1712.) a mod curious tefi’eiated pavement, for bulk and beauty the mod confiderable one we know of: it was a parallelogram of thirty-five foot long and twenty foot wide, a noble room, and no doubt defigned for feading and jollity: in one of the circular works was Bacchus reprefented in dones properly coloured, with a tiger, a thyrfus in his hand enwrapped with vine leaves. This admirable curiofity deferved a better owner; for the landlord and tenant quarreling about lharing the profits of fhowing it, the latter malicioufly tore it in pieces. When the earth was fird laid open upon its difeovery, they found it covered a foot thick with burnt wheat, barley and peafe: fo that we may guefs upon fome enemy’s approach it was covered with thofe matters to prevent its being injured, or was turned into a barn and burnt. We crofled a fofs called Grimesditch, the vallum eadward: it goes by Ditchley wood and houfe, which takes its name from it. Dr. Plot does not fufficiently didinguidi this from a Roman road: it was doubtlefs fome divifion of the ancient Britons: the country is all a rock of rag-done. Many good feats of the nobility hereabouts •, Cornbury lord Clarendon’s, Ditchley lord Litchfield’s, duke of Shrewfbury’s at Hathorp, new built of done very beautiful. Juniper grows plentifully hereabouts. At Chadlingtcn ChIPPING- NORTON. Rowld- RiCH. Br. temple. Br ANAVIS. TAB. VIIL 2d Vol. I T E 11 11. Chadlington is a fquare Roman camp. At Endoii is a pretty curiofity in water-works, cafcades falling down artificial rocks overgrown with water- plants, chirping of birds imitated, many pipes of water, fecretiy to daQi the fpecfators, and fancies of that kind. Chipping-Norton miift have been a great trading tovrn by the number of merchants, as they are there called, buried in the church under brafies and infcriptions : others of alabaffer ; and the name of the place fignifies it, as our Cheapfide, equivalent to market, to buying or cheapening. There are marks of a caftle by the church, which probably was demolilhed in the time of king Stephen. Lord Arundel, beheaded in the barons wars, lived in it: a place called the Vineyards near it. Roman coins are frequently found here. The church is a good building of a curious model, the fouth porch hexagonal, and a little roof over it fupported by a Rone arch : under the choir is a charnel-houfe full of the ruined rafters of mortality. A priory was here near Chapel on the heath: the Talbot inn was reli¬ gious: Rories of fubterraneous paffages thence to the priory. A well lately found in the ploughed fields at WoodR:ock hill, a mile fouth of this place, and more fuch like in the Reids. Hereabouts they call camps barrows.^ meaning boroughs. Hence we rode to fee Rowldrich Rones, a very noble monument the RrR antiquity of this fort that I had feen, and from which I concluded thefe works to be temples of the ancient Britons. I crave leave to referve its defcription for another work. In the clay upon thefe hills they dig out cornua ammonis^ fmall, but very prettily notched: they are nothing but clay hardened in the Riell. Further on, in Tadmerton pariRi, we rode ^ through a large round camp on the top of a hill doubly intrenched, able to contain a great army. Bloxham has a very Rne church, the Reeple of an odd make, but pretty enough. At Broughton near Banbury is the feat of the lord Say and Seal. Banbury was a Roman Ration, called Branavis. That maRer builder the bilhop of Lincoln, Alexander, built the caRle anno 1125, I doubt not but upon the Roman fortification: he enlarged it and built it after the mode of thofe times, taking in a huge fpace of ground with a wall, towers and ditch : within he made another work upon one fide, where were the lodgings, chapel, &c. A fmall part of the wall of this is only now left, of good hevv'u Rone ; but the ditch went along the middle of the adjacent Rreet, and houfes are built by the fide of it, out of its ruins, as people now alive remember: in the civil wars it received new additional works, for there are plain remains of four baRions ; a brook running without them. Many Roman coins and antiquities have been found here. There is an inn called the AltarRone inn, from an altar which Rood in a nich under the fign : this had a ram and fire carved on it, as they fay : part of the Rone is Rill left: I imagine this was originally a Roman altar: they tell us William the Conqueror lay at this inn. The town is a large Rraggling place and dirty, though on a rock with fufficient defcent: one would think it was walled about in moR ancient times. Here are three gates, though of later make. The tower of the church, they fay, was much higher than at prefent: the church is of great compafs: three rows of pillars, but of too Render a manner, which makes them all lean awry, and difterent ways: many additions have been made to it: a touch-Rone monument of the family of Cope: other old monuments ruined. The bridge is long, confiRing of many arches. Branau fiiper cilium aqttce feems well to anfwer the etymology of the Roman name, as Mr. Baxter has it: the PRAESIDIUM 49 ITER II. The ftone of this country is mixed with fand. Black gloves is a great manufafture here. Kenric the Weft-Saxon king, anno 540, routed the Britons at this place. We went over the vale of Red-horfe and Edghill, which prefents us with a moft extenfive profpedl, fteep to the north : on the top of it, at Warmleighton, is a large and Ifrong intrenchment of a circular but irregular form, faid to be Danifh by the inhabitants, but feemingly more ancient and Britifh. Defcending the hill for a mile, we rode through Radway, and over the field between it and Kyneton, where the famous battle of Edghill was fought: we were fhown fbme of the graves of the llain. At Tellisford we croffed the Fofs-way. Warwick is fituate on a rock, a fine new-built town, having been almoft wholly burnt down in 1694. The church and lofty tower is built, except the eafl end, which is old and very good work : there are a many fine brafs monuments of the earls of Warwick and others, as the earl ofEffex; many chapels and confeffionarics, with other remains ancient fuperftition : in the chapter-houfe on the north fide is a tomb of the lord Brook. The caftle ftands upon the river Avon,' over which is a ftone bridge with a dozen arches: acrofs is a large ftone-work dam, where the water falls over it as a cafcade, under the caftle wall, which is built on a rock forty foot above the water. It overlooks the whole town and country, being delicately fituate for pleafure and ftrength, fenced with a deep mound and ftrong embattled double walls and lofty towers : there are good apartments and lodgings next the river, the refidence of the lord Brook: on one fide of the area is a very high mount: we were fhown the fword and other gigantic reliques of Guy the famous earl of Warwick. The priory on the north-eaft fide of the town overlooks a pleafant woody vale : there are a great many curious original pibfures, by Vandike and other good hands, of kings, queens, famous ftatefmen, perfons of learning both at home and abroad. A mile out of town, on the fide of a hill, is a pretty retired cell, called Guy-cliffe : in an old chapel there is a ftatue of Guy eight foot high : the fence of the court is intire rock, in which are cut ftaWes and out-houfes. We faw the rough cave where they fay Guy died a hermit. Coventry is a large old city: it was walled about: the gates are y^t ftanding. It is adorned with a fine and very large church and beautiful fpire a hundred yards high. There is another good church in the fame yard. The crofs is a beautiful Gothic work, fixty fix foot high : in niches are the ftatues of the Englifh kings. At the fouth end of the town ftands a tall fpire by itfelf, part of the Grey Friers’ conventual church. The town-houfe is worth feeing : the windows filled with painted glafs of the images of the old earls, kings, &c. who have been benefablors to the town. Here the famous lady Godiva redeemed the privileges thereof almoft at the expence of her modefty, the memory whereof is preferved by an annual cavalcade. Thefe verfes are wrote in the town-houfe. O jduxiliii ITER 11. ^ ' Auxiliis olim Jletit alma Coventria regum Dum fortuna juit. Magnos colit hinc Edoardos Henricojque Juos, urbs non ingrata patronos, "yamque adeo ajjiidiis crejcit fpes altera rebus Elizabetha tuis princeps mitijjima fceptris. Lcetior illuxit nullo pax rege Britannis. Ergo age diva tuis Jis fcelix civibus ufque^ Exuperans patrias ^ avitas aemula laudes. Princeps ille niger (niveis cui vertice pe 7 inis Crijia ?ninax, viBi regis ccejique Bohami Exuviis) heros Edoardus magnus in annisy Hic fedem pofuit. Sic diBa eji principis aula. Hoc authore fuit libertas civibus auBa^ Muneribufque ornata fuis, res publica crevit. Hinc depiiia, vides, pajjim fua penna per urbem Pejiatur magni monumentum ^ pignus amoris. Labentes fatis (quid enim perdurat in aevum f ) Fortunas urbis tandem miferatus agrorum Extendit Jines, Northumbrius file 'Johannes. Cumque juit bello dux inviBiJJimus, armis In fnediis coluit pacis, vir-providus, artes j Exemploque fuum vocat ad pia fall a Robertum, Non tantum meruit Leofriciis Cejlrius olim Nec conjux Godiva, pii dux fcemina faBi. Godiva ah turpi quae lege coaBa mariti Fertur equo, diffufa comas nudata per urbem. AJjeruitque fuos, culpent utcunque minores ! Vicit amor patriae lihertatifque cupido : ^antum hodie patrem referens Leicefrius heros Retro fublapfam qui nojlram refiituit rem, ^ Sufiinet in pejus ruituram urbifque Jalutem. I modo quo virtus te fert, fic itur ad ajira. Et quibus infifiis jcelix, procede paternis Aujpicits, 7 naneatque tuos haec cura nepotes. Holbech, May 1712 ? 5 ITER CIMBRICUM. III. - quid virtus quid fapientia pojjit Utile propofuit nobis exemplar Ulyjfem. ^i domitor T’roja., multorum providus urbes Et mores hominum infpexit - Hor. ro RICHARD MYDDLETON MASSEY = of Wilbech, M. D. T O you of right I infcribc this journey, to which your company and my inclination to fee fomewhat of the world allured me. . I had conceived great notions of the old Britons betimes, and longed to hear at leaft a language fpoke foon after the deluge; and I then prided myfelf as much as Csefar formerly in making this fmall inroad into their country. I willingly take this occafion of recognizing how I ought to efteem it a happinefs, that you chanced to be feated in a place fo near that of my nativity, and prefented. to me a fubject of imitation, in all the commend¬ able qualifications that may conduce to the felicity and ornament of life. Your deep infight into materia medica^ the theory and praftice of phyfic, your great knowledge of antiquities, natural hiftory, and all polite learning, and ,the excellence of your hand in defigning, were as fo many fpurs to me in my young years, when we are moft apt at imitation : and that the latter exercife of the pen is of importance to all the others, is too notorious, and univerfally allowed by all, to need any folemn proof. Who fees not that the defers and confufion in anatomy and botany, and every part of philo- fophy, is owing to the want of drawing ? when the innumerable labours of fo many ages are either loft to pofterity, or imperfeftly tranfmitted, for that reafon. How well does this range and diftinguifh ideas, and imprint them in one’s own mind, as well as make them known to others ? It is not to be difputed but a perfon that underftands it, fees much farther into things than others: the beauties of art and nature are open to him. Indeed every body is pleafed with perfection and beauty, though they know not why: as fuppofe that of a fine ftatue, they are hugely delighted with it, though they underftand not that it is owing to the proper difpofition and contraft of the limbs, to the attitude, the grace of the pofture, the expreffion of the aClion, the light and fhade, and a thoufand other requifites, as well as the particular delicacy and outline of the parts and members ; and thefe things are only to be learnt and gathered from Nature’s felf, from copying and obferving it; for flie is the grand exemplar of all fine ftrokes in draw¬ ing ; 52 Grantham Notting¬ ham. ITER III. ing ; as Ariftotle formed his Art of Poetry from the great genius of Komer, and he from the force of Nature. Grantham was certainly a Roman town. Burton in his Commentaries on Antoninus’s Itinerary relates, that a great ftone trough, covered with a Hone, was dug up there, full of Roman coins, p, 216.* The ftreet that runs on the eafl: of the church is called Caftle-ftreet: between it and the river have been dug up foundations of a callle, as they fay,''[“ I have a piece of glafs with enamel upon it, ground with an engine; which is curious, and I take it for Roman : it was found in the Grange garden. Here is a fpacious church and fine fpire, much noted: it is a hundred yards high, equalled by another in this county, Louth, befides the tower of Bofton : under the fouth wall of this church are two tomb-flones, faid to be of the founders ; one in old French, the date only legible, 1362,5 the other, f)lc jacent rlcarB be caicebg $ inargareta be em0 m ccclm* On a ftone in a wall in Church-lane this infcription (the orate pro anima feems to have been cut out by order of fome zealot) SobiSi 0 Oll 3 fntpt|) HietCatOlifi! be < 25 t:antf)ani, a coat of arms, quarterly ; in the fmifter upper quarter a mullet. There were many religious houfes here, fome reliques of them left: in one juft by the market-place is a very pretty litttle chapel, or oratory, adorned with imagery. The Angel inn was once a commandery. Here is a good free-fchool, erected by Richard Fox bifliop of Winchefter, where Sir Ilaac Newton received the firft principles of literature, under the famous William Walker then fchool-mafter.:J; Belvoir, the feat of the dukes of Rutland, Hands on a high hill with a very fine profpedt: you may fee Nottingham caftle and Lincoln minfter, and all around you, below, many towns and lordfhips the demefnes of this noble family. Here is a perfedt pattern of the true old Englifh hofpitality. In the fine gallery are many ancient and modern family pidtures and others; the original one of king Charles I. as he fat at his trial. This place was the pofleffion of Robert de Totney,§ a great man who came in with William the Conqueror: he built a priory near it. I imagine originally here was a Roman camp ; for coins have been found about it.|| Upon the edge of Lincolnfhire we vifited the tombs of the duke of Rutland’s family at Bottefworth, which are worth feeing. Nottingham we arrived at after eroding the Roman road called Fofs: it is a pleafant and beautiful town. They have a great manufadture here for ftockings, which they weave in looms from the invention of a neigh¬ bouring clergyman. Their ale is highly valued for foftnefs and pleafant tafte: * Ilolinflied, in his Hift. Engl. p. 92. fays a ftone trough full of Roman coin was found at Grantham forty years before : he there gives an account of the golden helmet, &c. found at Harlaxton. t The caftle was in the clofe by the river eaft of the church : people alive remember foun¬ dations of it being dug up. I faw this year, 1726, a large brafs Antoninus coin, found near Slade mill, in p< fleftion of Mrs. Vincent. Some think the caftle was at Captain Hacket’s houfe, and that it was John of Gaunt’s caftle, who had a manor here: however, great foun¬ dations are at the place, and arches have been taken up by the Captain ; whether belonging to tliat manor houfe, caftle, or the adjoining St. Peter’s church, now demoliflred, I know not. J It is a miftake 1 was led into hy the vulgar opinion of the people of Grantham : Mr. Stokes was mafter of the fchool in Sir Ifaac’s time. § 1726, 1 faw the tomb-ftone of this Robert new dug up, in a ftable where was the priory chapel: ROBCRT DC TOD’cILC FVDCVR wrote in large letters with lead caft in them. j| I have a brafs Claudius, found in Grantham, reverfe, ceres avgvsta, ftruck on occafion of that univerfal dearth mentioned by St. Luke. Jofephus takes notice of it. Ant. Jud. Ill, 18. BRYT TXSH 39 s' y,....'» • -- i'^Ty « e M‘, ii V ^rf:4#' jyp'P' .^. Kr- ‘ .i,j-y^c, '4 . 4 - ■ ' ® ■ ■ „•»» . 4 ^ 4 ' s‘).\ '• ■ !-^ : i. 'y ■' I • ‘ ' :y.ii"r'-r .:• p: y.'' /• ' C' ■ 5V:'> i • ■ *.' , • \ i>'' •■#■ ^ ■ ' M'-. ■•' .-r i- he,/. ./ '('■1 'i > ;V;Vj 'i 55 ITER III. lirous parcel of gigantic rocks, feemingly piled one a-top of another as in the wars of the gods, called the Torr : there were a few inhabitants at bottom, in little cottages, who durif trull: themfelves under fo ruinous a fhelter: it was fitly reprefented by thofe verfes of the poet, itabat acuta filex^ prcecijis undique /axis, Speluncce dorfo infurgens-, altijjima vifu. Dirarum nidis domus opportuna volucrum / Virg. viii. .^n. I took the pains to clamber on hands and knees almoft to the top, and entered another hermit’s cell, who had a mind, if poffible, to get quite out of the world : it is hewn in the rock, with a moft dreary profped; before it: on one end is a crucifix and a little niche, where I fuppofe the miftaken zeal of the ftarved anchorite placed his faint, or fuch trinket. Over-againft it, about half a mile off, is another fuch cliff; but by the care of a gentle¬ man that lives underneath (Mr. Afhe) it is reduced into a more agreeable form: there is an eafy afeent up to it by Heps hewn out of the rock, and abundance of alcoves, grots, fummer-houfes, cellars, pinacles, dials, -ba- luftrades, urns, &c. all of the fame materials: earth is carried to the top, and fine graffy walks with greens planted along them, upon this hanging terrace, whence you have a free view over many a craggy mountain. I was highly pleafed with fo elegant a compofure, where Art and indulfry had fo well played its part againft rugged Nature. We went through Wirkfworth, and over the rapid Derwent, whilfl: on^HATs- a fudden (like the advantageous change of a feene) we were furprifed at the fight of Chatfworth, the famous feat of the duke of Devonfliire, defervedly reckoned one of the wonders of the Peak, as remarkable for its fquation in fo wild a place as its curious fabric and ornaments. The river here for a while puts on a fmooth afpedt, and glides gently by, as unwilling to leave fo glorious a place: between it and the houfe is a fine venerable walk of trees, retaining the name of that great philofopher Hobbes, who ftudied frequently under its fliade. A noble piece of iron-work gates and balufters expofes the front of the houfe and court, terminated at the corners next the road with two large ftone pedeflals of Attic work, curioudy adorned with trophies of war, and utenfils of all the fciences, cut in baffo relievo. This face of the building is Ionic, the whole being a fquare of a fingle order, but every fide of a different model: a court in the middle, with a piazza of Doric columns of one ftone each overlaid with prodigious architraves. The ftone is of an excellent fort, veined like marble, hewn out of the neighbour¬ ing quarries, and tumbled down the adjacent hill: it is introduced into the work in very large fizes, finely jointed. In the anti-room to the hall are flat ftones, of fourteen foot fquare, laid upon the heads of four pillars, and fo throughout: in the hall flairs the landing or refting fteps of the fame dimenfion : the doors, chimneys, window-cafes, flairs, &c. of marble ; the fafhes very large, gilt; the fquares two foot broad: the cielings and walls of all the apartments charged with rare painting of Varrio and other famous hands : the bath-room all of marble curioufly wrought. The chapel is a mofl ravifhing place: the altar-end and floor marble, the feats and gallery cedar, the reil of the wall and cieling painted. The gardens abound with green-houfes, fummer-houfes, walks, wilderneffes, orangeries, with all the furniture of llatues, urns, greens, &c. with canals, bafons and water¬ works of various forms and contrivance, fea-horfes, drakes, dolphins, and other fountains that throw up the water: an artificial willow-tree of copper fpouts and drops water from every leaf: a w'onderful cafeade, where, from a neat houfe of ftone like a temple, out of the mouths of beafts, pipes, urns, &c. a w'hole river defeends the dope of a hill, a quar¬ ter 56 Buxton, ter of a mile in length, over fteps, with a terrible noife and broken appear¬ ance, till it is loft under ground. Beyond the garden, upon the hills, is a park, and that overlooked by a very high and rocky mountain : here are fome ftatues and other antiquities. Hence we went bv Bakewel, and left Haddon-houfe belonging to the duke of Rutland on our left hand, in a pleafant and fruitful valley. We travelled ten miles over a perfeci defert to Buxton, encompaffed with wafte and boggy mountains and naked cliffs : the tops of the hills hereabouts are quagmires, or fprings, furnidiing numerous rivers running hence all man¬ ner of ways. Nature feeras to have thrown thefe preeipicious heights into the middle of the idand on purpofe for her limbeck, to diftil the liquid fources of fprings by fome unknown power. The valleys are the iirmeft ground, made of the gritty wafliings of the mountains : we were every moment diverted with the appearance of curious plants, but no tree to be feen. At Buxton are the admirable warm fprings, which invite numbers of ftrangers yearly, efpecially from the northern countries. The duke of Devonfliire has built a large and convenient houfe for their recep¬ tion : the bath-room is arched over head, and the whole made handfome, convenient, and delightful. This collection of tepid waters, exceeding clear, will receive twenty people at a time to walk and fwim in : the tem¬ per thereof, equal to new milk, or that of one’s own blood, procures a moderate perfpiration: its effeCt is remarkable for giving that gentle relaxation of the folids, which takes off the wearinefs and fatigue of a journey, and refrefnes immediately : it is ufeful phyfically in many cafes, and may be indulged more than the hot baths of Somerfetftiire, which frequently do harm for that reafon, through an imprudent ufe. Such a one as this was imitated by the fumptuous bagnios of the Roman emperors. Sir Tho. Delves, who received a cure here, gave the pump and a pretty ftone alcove over the drinking-fpring in the yard: the water may be raifed to what height you pleafe. Philofophers have long fought for a folution of the caufe of thefe hot fprings : the chymifts know many mixtures will produce a flame and effervefcence, particularly fteel fdings and fulphur, when water is poured thereon ; but that thefe could continue the fame courfe and quantity of water, and this regular heat, through all ages and feafons, is worthy of admiration. Indulgent Nature indeed has made fome amends to the inhabitants of this barren region by this ineftimable gift. We found in one of the rooms thefe verfes, wrote upon the wall by a phyfician that formerly frequented the place : Corpore debilior Grani fe proluit imdis^ ^cerit aquas Aponi-, quern febris atra necat. Ut penitus renem purget cur Pfaulia tanti t Vel quce Lucina gaudia, Calderia ? Sola mihi Buxtona placet, Buxtona Britafinis Undre Grani, Aponus, pfaulia, Calderia. About half a mile off is that ftupeiidous cavern called Pool’s Hole, under a great mountain : the entrance at the foot thereof is very low and narrow, fo that you muft ftoop to get in : but immediately it dilates into a wide and lofty concavity, which reaches above a quarter of a mile end-wife and farther, as they tell us : fome old women v/ith lighted candles are guides in this Cimmerian obfcurity : water drops from the roof every where, and incrufts all the ftones vv^ith long cryftals and fiuors : whence a thoufand imaginary figures are fhown you, by the name of lions, fonts, lanterns, organs, flitch of bacon, &c. At length you come to the Queen of Scots pillar. 57 ITER III. pillar, as a terminus of moft people’s curiofity. A ftream of water runs along the middle, among the fallen rocks, with a hideous noife, re¬ echoed from all fides of the horrid concave: on the left hand is a fort of chamber, where they fay Pool, a famous robber, lived. We may very well apply thele verfes to the place; At fpecus & Caci detedia apparuit ingens Kegiuy & umbrofce penitus patuere caverna : Non /ecus ac Ji qua penitus vi terra dehifcens Infernas referet fedes & regna recludat Pallida^ diis invi/uy fuperque immane barathrum Cernatur - Virg. iEn. viii, Within appears old Pool’s tremendous cave. With glimmering lights redoubled horror Ihown; Yawning, as earth by ftrong convulfions torn Opens the caverns of the Stygian king Dire, hateful to the gods, and the black pit Difclofes wide- ' We entered the pleafanter country of Chefliire at Lyme, the feat of Mr. Leigh: here are curious gardens, lakes, cafcades, fountains, fum- mer-houfes. This is a fine level, woody, and rich county, abounding with lakes of water called meres: the towns ftand but thin, and it being moftly inclofure, there are paved caufeways for hoifes along the clayey roads: many ancient feats and parks, but moft ruinous and decayed. We were entertained by the worthy Sir Francis Leycefter at his feat. Nether Tabley, by Knutsford, upon the Roman way from Mancunium to Deva: this houfe ftands in the midft of a mere: here is a good library completed by the curious pofleflbr, with a vaft addition to his anceftors’ ftore, of all the Englifh hiftory efpecially. In cleanfmg this mote fome time fince they found an old Britifti axe, or fome fuch thing, made of large flint, neatly ground into an edge, with a hole in the middle to faften into a handle : it would ferve for a battle-axe. Rotherfton church ftands upon a hill, and commands a lovely profpebl acrofs a mere, a mile and half in length and a mile over, where amongft great variety of fifh are fmelts found, properly inhabitants of the fea. There is a floating ifland, formed from turf, fuftained by implication of the roots of alnus nigra baccifera growing on it, which the wind wafts over from one fide to the other. On the fouth fide of the fteeple is this infcription : D^ate p?o anima Domini toillmi ijatotoicke nicatii ifiiuis ecclefiae $ P?o animatJU0 omnium patociiiano^um qui boc fculpt Out of the church-yard you fee to the Yorkfhire hills beyond Manchefter. By the church-porch were lately dug up three large ftone colfins. In the church are abundance of coats of arms. Among other curious plants grow hereabouts calamus aromaticus and ros folis. The Roman road from Manchefter to Chefter pafles the Merfey river at Stretford, through Altringham, to the north of Rotherfton mere; then by Chapel in the ftreet, by Winingham, to Northwich ; then by Sandy way, the Chamber or Edelbury, it pafles the river at Stanford, fo called from the ftony ford, to Chefter. We were at Northwich, which I take to be Condate, as all diftances Condate. perfuade me. It is ftill, among others hereabouts, famous for brine- fpringo, whence they make great quantities of fineft fait, by boiling the water 58 Mancuni UM. ITER III. water in large iron pans of fmall depth: as fall as the fait cryftalllfes, they rake it out and dry it in conic wicker balkets : the duty paid by it amounts to a great fum of money. About thirty years ago on the fouth fide of the town they difcovered immenfe mines of rock fait, which they continually dig up, and fend in great lumps to the maritime parts, vs/^here it is dillblved and made into eating-falt. We were let down by a bucket a hundred and fifty foot deep to the bottom of the fait quarry, a moft pleafant fubterraneous profpedf: it looks like a large cathedral, fupported by rows of pillars and roof of cryftal, all of the fame rock, tranfparent and glittering from the numerous candles of the workmen, labouring with their fleel pick-axes in digging it away : this rock-work of fait extends to feveral acres of ground. There is a very good church in the town : the end of the choir is femicircular: the roof of the church is very fine, whereon are carved feveral of the wicker bafkets before mentioned j whence they report it was built out of the profits of the fait works. At Lawton Yates they bore for the fait fpring to fixty yards deep; lower down, at Haffal, it is forty feven ; at Wheeloc, eighteen j about Middlewich it is lefs j at Northwich it arifes to open day ; which feems to intimate that the fait fpring runs between layers of the earth in an horizontal line: upon boring, it rifes with great impetuofity, fo that the workmen have fcarce time to get out of the wells. This is alt along the fide of a brook that comes from a remarkable hill called Mawcop, upon the edge of StafFordfhire, fo that the ground rifes above the true level in the mentioned proportion. Manchefter, in Lancadiire, is the Mancmiium of the Romans, the larged:, mod: rich, populous, and bufy village in England. There are about two thoufand four hundred families. The fite of the Roman cajirumy between Sir John Bland’s and Manchefter, is now called Knock Caflle. They have a fabulous report of Turquin a giant living there, killed by Sir Lancelot de Lake, a knight of king Arthur’s: in it was found a Saxon ring, mentioned in Hickes’s ThefauruSy now in pofiedion of Sir Hans Sloan. A Roman altar dug up here, deferibed by Dr. Lifter, Philof. Tranf. N. 155. p. 457. and a large gold Roman ring. The Caftle field, as fometime called, is about as big as Lincoln’s-Inn fquare, the foundation of the wall and ditch remaining. Some call it Man-caftle: its name comes from the Britifh maeriy lapisy meaning its rocky foil. The old church, though very large, having three rows of neat pillars, was not capable of containing the people at divine fervice > whence they raifed, by voluntary fubferiptions, a new edifice after the London models, finiflied laft year the choir is alcove-fafhion, and the pilafters painted of lapis-lazuli colour. There is a fine new ftreet built to the north. Their trade, which is incredibly large, confifts much in fuftians, girth-web, tickings, tapes, 6cc. which is difperfed all over the kingdom, and to foreign parts: they have looms that work twenty-four laces at a time, which was ftolen from the Dutch. The college has a good library for public ufe, endowed with 116I. per ann. to buy more books, and aXalary for the librarian. There is a free- fchool maintained by a mill upon the river, which raifes 3001. per annum. On the fame river, for the fpace of three miles upwards, there are no lefs th an fixty water-mills. The town ftands chiefly on a rock; and acrofs the river is another large town, called Salthorp. Dr. Yarburgh, fon to him late of Newark, flrowed me a great colleClion of old Greek, Perfian, Tartarian, and Punic coins brought from Afia. About a mile off, at the feat of Sir John Bland, is a Roman altar, lately dug up thereabouts ; in the molfes, as they call them in this country, they often find reliques of 59 ITER III. of antiquity, fuch as arrow-heads, celts, pick-axes, kettles, &c. of brafs; many are in the repofitory of the library : likcwife-fubterraneous fir-trees, as in mod: other countries in the like fort of ground. French wheat grows commonly hereabouts, much ufed among the poor people, of very different fpecies from ours : they have likewife wheat with long beards like barley, and barley with four rows of grain on an ear, and great plenty of potatoes. We paffed through Delamere foreft, upon the Roman road, in our way to Chefter. They fay here was formerly an old city, now called the Chamber on the Foreft ; I fuppofe, feme fort or camp to fecure the road. From hence you have a fine profpe6l to the Welfh mountains, fuch a noble feene of nature as I never beheld before. Beefton caftle is on our left, built upon a rocky precipice. Chefter is a fine old city, and colony of the Deva. Romans, the refidence fome time of the legio vicejima viSlrix : a hypocauft was lately found, lined with bricks made by that legion. I need not repeat what other authors fay of the antiquities at this place. The rows or piazzas are fingular, through the whole town giving fhelter to foot people. I fancied it a remain of the Roman porticos. Four churches befidc the cathedral, which is a pile venerable indeed for age and almoft ruin : there are fhadow’s of many pictures on the walls, madonnas^ faints, bifhops, 6cc. but defaced. At the ■ weft end are fome images of the earls Palatine of Chefter in niches. The adjoining abbey is quite ruined. The walls round the city are kept in very good repair at the charge of the corporation, and ffrve F r a pleafant airy walk. The Exchange is a neat building, fupported by columns, thirteen foot high, of one ftone each : over it is the city-hall, a well-contrived court of judicature. The caftle was formerly the palace^ and where the earls affembled their parliaments, and enadfed laws independ¬ ent of the kings of England, and determined all judicial trials themfelves. Abundance of Roman and Britifh antiquities are found hereabouts. At Stretton, Roman coins, and a camp-kettle of copper dug up at Codington: near it divers other antiquities. The old Watling-ftreet way from Dover came originally hither through Stretton and Aldford ; though I fuppofe in after-times of the Romans they turned it off more fouthward into Wales, for fake of the many towns feated on the Severn. Next \ve entered Wales, and came to Wrexham in Flintfhire. Here is Wales. ai good church, and the fineft tower-fteeple I ever faw, except Bofton : it is adorned with abundance of images. There is a new town-houfe built like that at Chefter. The common people fpeak the Welfh. The gentry are well-bred, hofpitable, generous and open-hearted : the females are generally handforae. I took a great deal of pleafure in hearing the natives talk in their own language, and remarked a great many words among them ftill retained in our country of Lihcolnfliire Holland : it is probable enough that our fens and morafies-might be a lohg fecurity to us againft the Saxons, as it had been to them againft the Romans. I ftiall give inftances of a few words. When we put oatmeal into water-gruel or milk, we call it lithing the pot; the fame is fignified by the Welfh word llith. Davis thinks the Engiifh Jlide comes from the Britifh llithro^ labi : we call it Jlither. A hull- beggar j or boggleboe, is manifeftly the Britilh bwbach^ with all its fynonymes. A top we call a whirligigs purely Britifh. We fay a whijking fellow, dexterous, ready : Britifh gwifgi^ To whyne ; Britifh gwynio. Very many fuch like occur in Dr. Skinner’s Etymologicurris which he would fain perfuade us the Welfh learnt from the Saxons, but without reafon. WegoNiuM. pafled by the valley upon the river Dee, where was the famous Britifh ’^onaftery in early times, whereof Pelagius was abbot, whofe Britifh name v/as 6o ITE R III. was Morgan ; but no remains difcernible. What fome talk concerning it, probably the veftiges of the Roman city; for many foundations, coins, and antiquities, have been dug up ; and not long fince two gates of the city were left. We entered Shropfhire, pafling by Ellfmere and Wem to Newport, where is a noble foundation for a fchool well endowed by William Adams efq; to the value of 7000I. over the door is this diftich# in fundatorem : Scripfjii heredem patriam tibi qua dedit ortum^ Scriberis ergo tuce^ jure^ pater patria, he gave 550L towards building the town-houfe. fefently entering Staffordfhire, we came into the Watling-ftreet, laid very broad and deep with gravel not yet worn out, where it goes over commons and moors. It is raifed a good height above the foil, and fb ftiait, that upon an eminence you may fee it ten or twenty miles before you, and as much behind, over many hill-tops anfwering one the other as a vifto of trees. Here and there, between one Rom'an town and another, you meet with the remains of an old fort or guard-place. We lodged at an inn called Ivefey bank, on the borders between Staffordfliire and Shropfhire. About a mile oif, in a large wood, ftands Bofcobel houfe, where the Pen- drils lived, who preferved king Charles II. after Worcefter fight, and Royal famous for the Royal Oak. The grand-daughter of that William Pendril Oak. ji'p houfe. The floor of the garret (which is a popilh chapel) being matted, prevents any fufpicion of a little cavity with a trap-door over the flair-cafe, where the king was hid : his bed was artfully placed behind fome wainfcot that fhut up very clofe. A bow-fhot from the houfe, juft by a horfe-track pafling through the wood, flood the Royal Oak into which the king, and his companion colonel Carlos, climbed by means of the hen-rooft ladder, when they judged it no longer fafe to flay in the houfe i the family reaching them vidluals with the nut-hook. It happened (as they related it to us) that whilfl thefe two were in the tree, a party of the enemy’s horfe, fent to fearch the houfe, came whiflling and talking along this road : when they were jufl under the tree, an owl flew out of a neighbouring tree, and hovered along the ground as if her wings were broke, which the foldiers merrily purfued without any circumfpeflion. The tree is now inclofed within a brick wall, the infide whereof is covered with laurel; of which we may fay, as Ovid did of that before the Auguflan palace, rnediamque tuebere quercum. The oak is, in the middle, almofl: cut away by travellers whofe curiofity leads them to fee it: clofe by the fide grov\/’s a young thriving plant from one of its acorns. The king, after the refloration, reviewing the place, carried fome of the acorns, and fet them in St. James’s park, or garden, and ufed to water them himfelf: he gave this Pendril an eflate of about 200I. per annum, which flill remains among them. Over the door of the inclofure I took this infcription cut in marble. - Felicijjimam arborem quam in afylum potentiffimi regis Caroli II. Deus O. M. per quern reges regnant hie crefeere ‘uoluiti tarn in perpetuam rei tanta memo-^ rianiy quam Jpecimen frma in reges fdeiy muro cinllam poferis commendant Bafilius Jana Fitzherbert, ^ercus arnica Jovi,. Entering ITER III. 6i Entering Staffordfhire, we went along the Watling-ftreet by Stretton and Water-Eaton : where a brook crofFes the road was the Pennocrucium of the Pennocru- Romans, as mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. A little way off Fenkridge, which no doubt retains fomewhat of the ancient name. Litchfield is a city neat enough. The cathedral is a very handfome pile, Litch- with numerous ftatues in niches at the front, which appears very majeftic half a mile off, there being two high fpires, and another higher in the middle of the crofs. The rebels intirely ruined all the ornament of the infide, with the brafs infcriptions, tombs, &c. and were going to pull down the whole fabric for fale. It is built in the middle of a bog for fecurity, and held out fome fierce attacks for king Charles I. This was made a metropolitical fee by the potent king Offa. St. Ceadda lived an eremitical life here by the fpring near Stow church. This town arofe from the ruin of the Roman Etocetum, a mile off, where the Rickning and Watling ftreets Etocetum crofs, now called Chefterfield wall, from fome reliques of its fortifications : it ftands high : the Rickning ftreet is very vifible fouthward, paffing within a mile of Fotherby, and fo to a park in Sutton Colfield, Warwickfhire; thence to Bromicham. Caftle hill, two miles hence above Stone hall, is a camp, the port eaftward. A mile and half from Wall is Weft-wall, a camp; and Knaves-caftle, near the Watling-ftreet, probably a guard upon the road: it is a circle of twenty yards diameter, with a fquare in the middle, three or four yards broad, with a breaft-work about it: the whole is inclofed with three ditches: it ftands in a large common. This Rickning is all along called by Dr. Plot Icknilway, but injurioufly, and tends only to the confufion of things j I fuppofe, to favour his Iceni in this country ; which notion is but chimerical. We paffed through Tamworth, pleafantly fituated in a plain watered by the river Tame, which divides it into two counties : it was the refidence of the Mercian kings, and has been fecured by a vallwn and ditch quite round. Here died the noble lady Elfleda, daughter of king Alfred, queen of the Mercian kingdom, anno 919. This town, by William the Conqueror, was given to the Marmyons, who built the caftle here, hereditary champions to the kings of England ; from whom that office defcended to the Dymokes of Lincolnfhire. We went through Bofworth over the field where Henry VII. won the kingdom by a bold and well-timed battle. Bofton, Dec. 1713. ^ R ITER ITER SABRINIUM. IV Bibroci. Readij^g. O mitte mirari beat(2 Fumumy G? opesy jirepitumque Romee. Hor. To TANCRED ROBINSON, M. D. &c. T O you. Sir, that have vifited the boafted remains of Italy, and other tranfmarine parts, it would feem prefumptuous to offer the trifle of the following letter, were I not fufficiently apprized of your great humanity and candour, which prompts you to encourage even the bloffoms of com¬ mendable ffudies. You, that have made an intimate fearch, and happily obtained a thorough infight into Nature, confider that fhe proceeds regularly by fucceflive gradations from little things to greater. The acquifition of any part of fcience is owing to a converfation with its elements and firft principles, whofe very fimplicity renders them not difagreeable. Thefe pages were memoradums I took in a fummer’s journey with our friend Mr. Roger Gale. This being my firft expedition fince I came to live at London, I defign as early as poffible to commemorate the felicity I enjoyed thereby of your acquaintance, and the opportunity of obferving the noble charafter you fuftain, of poffefiing all the wifdom that ancient or modern learning can give us without vanity, and that the phyfician, the fcholar, and the gentleman, meet in you. I obferve, in Berkfhire, a river called Ock, running in the north fide of the county by Abingdon into the Thames, which in the Celtic language figni- fies fiiarp or fwift, or perhaps water in general : this is in Oke hundred. In the fouth fide of the county is the town of Okeingham. Thefe feem plainly remnants of the old name of the inhabitants of this country, Bibrociy not yet obferved. Near Reading is Laurence-Waltham, which has been Roman : there is a field called Caftle-field, and vaft numbers of coins found. By it is Sunning, once an epifcopal fee. From London to Maidenhead it is a gravelly foil j then a marly chalk begins. Reading is a large and populous town upon the fall of the Kennet into the Thames j in the angle of which it ftands upon a rifing ground, over¬ looking the meadows, which have a fine appearance all along the rivers. There are three churches, built of flint and fquare ftone in the quincunx falhion, with tall towers of the fame. Arch-bifhop Laud was born here. The abbey flood in a charming fituation: large ruins of it ftill vifible, built of flint; the walls about eight foot thick at prefent, though the ftone that faced them be pillaged away ; the remainder is fo hard cemented, that it is not worth v/hile to feparate them : many remnants of arched vaults a good height above ground, whereon flood, as I fuppofe, the hall, lodg¬ ings, &c. there is one large room about fixteen yards broad, and twenty- eight long, femi-circular towards the eaft end, with five narrow windows, three Wr c/e//n I Horny Scf/ 1 Ad SPINAS .• : ■ ’■< ■ — t.- . .r • v< ' ^ K'. p 1 *1' f ‘ (. I pf^ I ' • ; X r /i , ► ^ S,iS *' ; ' ■ t . % ■ ! : f I P y / I > V / ’ ?• . , ' i: “hiv ' ’■,? •' f yr : r^; r ' .S’ I ! JP '- ■’ '■ ^' ■ i. 1 ; ' ,jl '■ € K": i: / I t- f'' f.., . <■ M * ti'-' '■ » 6'9 f * t ■ % y ; V' > K 1 t 1 ‘ 4 . 4 ( CUKXTIO 0,3 k) A ITER IV. 63 TAB. XXVI. TAB. XXIII. three doors towards the weft, ’and three windows over them ; it was arched over, and feems to have fupported a chapel, in which we fancy king Henry I. was buried with his queen : he founded this abbey upon an old one, that had been formerly eredled by a Saxon lady. There are the remains of baftions, part of the fortifications, when garrifoned by the parliament army in the civil wars : the abbey gate-houfe is yet pretty intire. Here was a famous old caftle, but long fince demoliftied, perhaps originally Roman. Near the trench the Danes made between the river Kennet and the Thames, is Catfgrove hill, a mile off Reading : in digging there they find firft a red gravel, clay, chalk, flints, and then a bed of huge petri¬ fied oyfters five yards thick, twenty foot below the furface: thefe fhells are full of fea fand.* Dr. Plot, in Oxfordjhire^ p. 119. who fuppofes thele appearances only the fports of Nature, folves this matter after a way that will induce one to think his caufe reduced to extremity. On the right hand, juft beyond Theal, is Inglefield, where king Ethelwolf routed the Danes. A little weft of Newberry is a village called Speen ; which has given Ad Spinam antiquarians a reafonable hint of looking for the town, in Antoninus called tab. LX. ad Spinas, hereabouts j and doubtlefs it was where now ftands the north part of the town of Newberry, ftill called Spinham. At this place the TAB. X. great Icening-ftreet road, coming from the Thames at Goring, and another Roman road running hence through Speen to Hungerford, and fo to Marlborough, crofles the Kennet river. Newberry has derived itfelf and name from the ruins of the old one j and the grounds thereabouts are called Spin- ham lands. Dunington caftle was once in the pofl’eflion of Geffrey Chaucer. A remarkable large cak, venerable through many ages, becaufe it bore his name, was felled in the civil wars. The Kennet, ftill called by the country people Cunnet, near Hungerford, parts the foil, that on the north fide being a red clay gravel, that on the fouth a chalk. I have often wifhed that a map of foils was accurately made, promifing to myfelf that fuch a curiofity would furnifh us with fome new notions of geography, and of the theory of the earth, which has only hitherto been made from hypothefes. This brings into my mind a remarkable paflage in Sir Robert Atkins’s Glocejlerfmre: “ Lay a line (fays he) from the mouth of the “ Severn to Newcaftle, and fo quite round the terreftrial globe, and coal “ is to be found every where near that line, and fcarce any where elfe.”§ From NewLerry the Roman road (I believe coming from Silchefter) Cunetio. palfes eaft and weft to Marlborough, the Roman Cunetio,^ named from theTAB.LXlI. river. This town confifts chiefly of one broad and ftrait ftreet, and for the LXIII. moft part upon the original ground-plot; nor does it feem unlikely that the narrow piazza continued all along the fides of the houfes is in imitation of them : the fquare about the church in the eaftern part one may imagine ^ ‘ the fite of a temple fronting this ftreet; to the fouth are fome reliques of a priory: the gate-houfe is left: on the north has been another religious houfe, whereof the chapel remains, now turned into a dwelling-houfe. Where * An account of thefe fhells in Phil. Tranf. p. 427. V. II. Mr. collector Terry tells me they find here vafl quantities of antediluvian fir-trees, and peat very deep in the earth : amongfl it, a large hollow gold ring, an inch and a half diameter ; and a broad thick coin of bafe gold, full of ftrange unknown characters on both fides, fold to a goldfmith there ; probably an invaluable curiofity. § At Frilfham, a Roman villa by ad Spinam, a Roman altar dug up, dedicated to Jupiter, 1730, in the earl of Abingdon’s grounds. II At Froxfield, fouth of Ramesbury, upon the via Trinobantica, a Roman villa difcovered anno 1724. under a wood, two Mdfaic pavements. Lord Winchelfea has the drawings of them. Many antiquities found here. Howhill near here. 64 TAB. I. Leucoma GUS. TAB. La IV. ITER IV. Where now is the feat of my lord Hartford was the fite of the Roman cajlrum, for they find foundations and Roman coins ; I faw one of Titus in large brafs : but towards the river, and without my lord’s garden-walls, is one angle of it left very manifeftly, the rampart and ditch intire: the road going over the bridge cuts it off from the limits of the prefent caftle: the ditch is ftill twenty foot broad in fome part: it palfed originally on the fouth of the fummer-houfe, and fo along the garden-wall, where it makes the fence, to the turn of the corner: the mark of it is ftill apparent broader than the ditch, which has been repaired fince, but of narrower dimenfion : then I fuppofe it went through the garden by the fouthern foot of the mount, and round the houfe through the court-yard, where I have marked the track thereof with pricked lines in Plate 62. There is a fpring in the ditch, fo that the fofs of the cajlrum was always full of water. I fuppofe it to have been five hundred Roman feet fquare within, and the Roman road tlirough the prefent ftreet of Marlborough went by the fide of it. Afterward, in Saxon or Norman times, they built a larger caftle, upon the fame ground, after their model, and took in more compafs for the mount 5 which obliged the road to go round it with a turn, till it falls in again on the weft fide of the mount at the bounds of Prefliute parifti. Roman coins have been found in fhaping the mount; which was the keep of the later caftle, and now converted into a pretty fpiral walk, on the top of which is an oftagonal fummer-houfe reprefentedTab. I. This neighbour¬ ing village, Prefliute, has its name from the meadows the church ftands in, which are very low : in the windows upon a piece of glafs is written, DNS RICHARDUS HIC VICARIUS, who I believe lived formerly in a little houfe at Marlborough, over-againft the caftle, now an ale-houfe, where his name is cut in wood in the fame old letters over the door. Great Bedwin I take to be the Leucomagus of Ravennas j for that and the prefent name fignify the fame thing, viz. the white town, the foil being chalk : he there places it juft before Marlborough, cunetzione. We faw near it the continuation of Wanfdike. This town is an old cor¬ poration : in it the famous Dr. Tho. Willis, the ornament of our faculty, was born. In the church lies the monument of a knight crofs-legged ; on his ftiield, barry of fix argent and gules, an orle of martlets fable j over all three efcallops of the firft on a bend of the third. Upon a ftone in brafs in the choir, Belkcampiis eram graja genetrice femerus Tres habui natoSy eji quihus una foror. Here lyeth the body of John Seymour, fon and heyre of Sir John Sey¬ mour and of Margery oon of the doughters of Henry Wentworth knyght, which decefed the xv day of July the yer of our lord M. D. X. on whofe foul Ihu have mercy, and of your charity fay a pater nojir and a ave. Hie jacet dm Thomas Dagefon quondam vicarius ijtius ecclefe qui obiit 7. die Decemb. A° dni. M.D.I. cujus anime propitietur deus amen, on a brafs in the middle aile. Roger de Stocre chev. id gycht deu de fa alme eyt merci, in the fouth tranfept. The town arms are, a man ftanding in a caftle, with a fword in his hand. Caftle copfe, fouth-eaft from the town about half a mile, as much from Wanfdike, containing about fourteen acres, feems the old Roman caftle. Howifdike I fuppofe a camp upon an eminence and in an angle made by the Wanfdike. They fhowed us a brafs town gallon, from the Win- chefter ftandard, given by my lord Nottingham. In the eaft window of Rural Cut-io£ity, ^e^AaUed tv tAe.$^/u: tAe. . \ I T E R IV. 6s % this church fome time fince was the picture of a prieft with two crutches, a cup in his hand, and a cann ftanding by him, with this infcription, which Mr, le Neve Norroy gave me; he tranfcribed it out of an old MS. now in the library of Holkham in Norfolk, formerly Sir Ed. Coke’s book ; and for its antiquity I think it not unworthy of mentioning. 0 9paBiL(ZB €>0 %€€ €0iL3I%€ POCcSBCOB COC eB €€£€ ^i)B mBW a^.€i15 J13C OB 15CT(ZBia(2B31 jF€3lJaC31^(H: e^^B PDC a D€ 1 R( 1 BE ^31^^ ^ W Jl32D23€liaE 0 ^ 3 ^aB DdB e^^B piaDC e i^a^ap 3^i^C3caB ML B3i a6€^2I(2B %)ajI3^ B€^We^ aCOBaCOB G Peris apele where de Jet eglife Su ma potente fu apue tot en 'tele gyfe Mon hanap ay en poyne e beverei fans feintife Mon pot a mon derer mifs e la novele gyife De mon pot e mon hanap Jerey jujiice Ke nul ni bey‘ve fans ne y ay m atente mife. In modern French, Je flits Peris appelle vicaire de cette eglife Sur ma potence fuis appuie tout en tell guife Mon hanap enpoigne & boirai fans feintife Mon pot a mon derriere mis a la nouvelle guife De mon pot & mon hanap ferai jujiice ^e nul ne boive fans que n'y ai m'autant mis. In Englifh, I am Peris’call’d, vicar of this church. Upon my crutches leaning juft in this wife; My pouch in my lift, and I’ll drink without guile; My pot at my back fet after the new mode : To my pot and my pouch I will have juftice done. For none fliall drink without putting in as much again. We were entertained at Wilton, the noble feat of the great earl of Pem¬ broke ; and defervedly may I ftyk it the School of Athens. The glories of this place I fhall endeavour to rehearfe in a feparate difcourfe. Crekelade, probably a Roman town upon the Thames; for from this a very plain Roman road runs to Cirencefter. Much has been the difpute formerly about a fancied univerfity in this place, and the little town in its neighbourhood Latin., which it would be fenfelefs only to repeat. The word Crekelade is derived from the cray-fifties in the river: Lade is no more than a water-courfe, but more efpecially fuch a one as is made by art and we •here find the river pent up for a long way together by fadlitious banks, in order the better to fupply their mills: fo Latin is no more than ladeings, or the meadows where thefe channels run. Ledencourt, near Newent, Glocefterfhire, I fuppofe, acknowledges the like original; and many S more. * Lod and Lud, See. is a general name for rivers. The river Loddon runs Into the Thames between Reading and Henley. Loddon, the name of a town upon a rivulet running into the Yare near Yarmouth, Norfolk. Lutton, in Holland, Lincolnfhire, where all the drains of the country meet. Ludlow, and Ludford near it, from the river. Lid^on, in Devonlhire, and Lidford, anciently a large town upon the river Lid, a branch of the Tamar. Lidbury, upon the river Liden, Herefordfhlre. River Lid, in Cumberland. Lidesdale, Loder, in Weftmoreland. Luda river and town (Louth) Lincolnfhire. Ludham, upon a river in Norfolk. Lug, in Herefordfhlre, a river of note, Loghor, a river in Glainorganfhire. Hence Luguballia. Lugotitia, Liidgaie, tcc. 66 ITER IV. more. The town of Lechelade falls under the fame predicament: leche fignifies a watery place fubjedf to inundations ; as Leach, a town near Boffon before mentioned, anciently written Leche : as Camden fays of Northleach, p. 240. and Litchfield hence fetches its etymology from the marfliy bog that environs the church, rather than the fuperftitious notion there current. Not far hence are two towns called Sarney and Sarncote, from the Roman caufeway j farn in Welfli importing a paved way. There is another upon the fame road between CirenceRer and Glocefter. CoRiNiuM. Cirencefter was anciently the Cormium of the Romans, a great and Dobuiioi um populous city, built upon the interfedlion of this road we have been travel¬ ing, and the great Fofs road going to the Bath: * it was inclofed with walls and a ditch of a vail compafs, which I traced quite round. Under the north-eaft fide of the wall runs the river Churn, whence the names of the town: the foundation of the wall is all along vifible j the ditch is fo where that is quite erafed. —-- -fic omnia fatis In pejus ruere ac retro fublapfa referri. Virg. G. i. A great part of the ground comprehended within this circuit is now pafture, corn-fields, or converted into gardens, befide the fite of the prefent town. Here they dig up antiquities every day, efpecially in the gardens; and in the plain fields, the track of foundations of houfes and ftreets are evident enough. Here are found many Mofaic pavements, rings, intaglia’s, and coins innumerable, efpecially in one great garden called lewis grounds, which fignifies in Britifh a palace, llys. I fuppofe it was the pratorium^ or head magiftrate’s quarters. Large quantities of carved ftones are carried off yearly in carts, to mend the highways, befides what are ufeful in building. A fine Mofaic pavement dug up here Sept. 1723. with many coins. I bought a little head which has been broke off from a bajfo relievo^ and feems by the tiara^ of a very odd hiape, like fortification work, to have been the genius of a city, or fome of the deed matres., which are in old inferiptions, fuch like in Gruter, p. 92. The gardener told me he had lately found a fine little brafs image, I fuppofe one of the lares ; but, upon a diligent ferutiny, his children had played it away. Mr. Richard Bifhop, owner of the garden, on a hillock near his houfe, dug up a vault fixteen foot long and twelve broad, fupported with fquare pillars of Roman brick three foot and a half high 1 on it a ftrong floor of terras: there are now feveral more vaults near it, on which grow cherry-trees like the hanging gardens of Babylon. I fuppofe thefe the foundations of a temple ; for in the fame place they found feveral ftones of the fliafts of pillars fix foot long, and bafes of ftone near as big in compafs as his fummer-houfe adjoining (as he expreffed himfelf) ; thefe, Vv^ith cornices very handfomely moulded and carved with modilions, and the like ornaments, w'ere con¬ verted into fwine-troughs: fome of the ftones of the bafes were faftened together with cramps of iron, fo that they were forced to employ horfes to draw them afunder; and they now lie before the door of his houfe as a pavement: capitals of thefe pillars were likewife found, and a crooked cramp of iron ten or twelve foot long, v/hich probably was for the architraves of a circular portico. A Mofaic pavement near it, and intire, is now the floor of his privy vault. Mr. Aubury in his MS. coll, fays an hypocauft was here difeovered; and Mr. Tho. Pigot, fellow of Wadham, v/rote a defeription thereof. Sometimes they dig up little ftones, as big as a fliiliing, with ftamps on them: I conjedf ure they are counterfeit dies to caft money in. We KAA3TO 67 ITER IV. We faw a monumental infciiption upon a ftone at Mr. Ifaac Tibbot’s, in Caftle-ftreet, in very large letters four inches long : D M IVLIAE CASTAE CONIVGI VIX A N N -v XXXIII. It was found at a place half a mile weft of the town, upon the north fide of the Fofs road, called ^ern from the quarries of ftone thereabouts. Five fuch ftones lay flatwife upon two walls in a row, end to end; and underneath were the corpfes of that family, as we may fuppofe. He keeps Julia Cafta’s Ikull in his fummer-houfe; but people have ftole all her teeth out for amulets againft the ague. Another of the ftones ferves for a table in his garden : it is handfomely fquared, five foot long and three and a half broad, without an infeription. Another of them is laid for a bridge over a channel near the crofs in CafUe-ftreet. There were but two of them which had inferiptions: the other infeription perifhed, being unluckily expofed to the wet in a frofty feafon : probably, of her hulband. Several urns have been found thereabouts, being a common burying place : I fuppofe them buried here after chriftianity. In the church, which is a very hand- fome building of the ftyle of St. Mary’s at Cambridge, are a great many ancient brafs inferiptions and figures: the windows are full of good painted glafs ; there is a fine lofty tower. Little of the abbey is now left, befide two old gate-houfes neither large nor good: the circuit of it is bounded for a good way by the city walls, Eaft of the town about a a quarter of a mile, is a mount or barrow called Starbury, where feveral gold Roman coins have been dug up, of about the time of Julian, which we faw : fome people ploughing in the field between it and the town, fouth of the hill, took up a ftone coffin with a body in it covered with another ftone. Weft of the town, behind my lord Bathurft’s garden, is another mount, called Grifmunds or Gurmonds, of which feveral fables are told : probably raifed by the Danes when they laid fiege to this place. Hence our journey lay by Stretton over the continuation of the Roman road from Crekelade, which appears with a very high ridge and very ftrait for eight miles, to Birdlip hill, prodigioufly fteep and rocky to the north- weft, till we came to Glocefter, a colony of the Romans. The old pro¬ verb, “ As fure as God’s at Glocefter,” furely meant the vaft number TAB of churches and religious foundations here j for you can fcarce walk paft ten doors but fomewhat of that fort occurs. The weftern part of the.p^g cathedral is old and mean ; but from the tower, which is very handfome, Vol. you have a moft glorious profpedt eaftward through the choir finely vaulted at top, and the Lady’s chapel, to the eaft window, which is very mag¬ nificent : here, on the north fide, lies that unfortunate king, Edward II. and out of the abundance of pious offerings to bis remains, the religious built this chair : before the high altar in the middle thereof lies the equally unfortunate prince Robert, eldeft foil of William the Conqueror, after a miferable life: but he refts quietly in his grave ; which cannot be faid of his younger brother, Henry I. before fpoken of at Reading abbey : he has a wooden tomb over him, painted with his coats of arms, and upon it his effigies, in Irifti oak, crofs-legged like a Jerufalem knight. The cloyfters in this cathedral are beautiful, beyond any thing I ever faw, in the ftyle of King’s-^college chapel in Cambridge. Nothing could ever have made me lo much in love with Gothic architecture (as called); and I judge. 68 Br ANO» KIUM. TAB. Will. ITER IV. judge, for a gallery, library, or the like, it is the heft manner of building 5 becaufe the idea of it is taken from a walk of trees, whofe branching heads are curiouily imitated by the roof. There are large remains of feveral abbeys of black and white friers, &c. I faw this diftich cut in wood over an old door of a houfe : Ofum riiinofa isomus! quontiam tjuam tunc renouauit ^•onac!)u.s Ott)anu0 2D0t)o?n :jcf)n rite tjocauit* This city abounds much with erodes and ftatues of the kings of England, and has a handfome profpedl of fceeples, fome without a church. Here are feveral market-houfes fupported with pillars ; among the reft a very old one of (tone. Gothic architedlure, uncommon and ancient, now turned into a ciftern for water. A mile or two diftant from the city is a very pleafant hill, called Robin Hood’s: I fuppofe it may have been the rendezvous of youth formerly to exercife themfelves in archery upon feftivals, as now a walk for the citizens. By this city, the Glevum of the Romans, the Ricning-ftreet way runs from the mouth of the Severn into Yorkdiire. I have nothing new as to its Roman antiquities; and hnce that is out of difpute, I haflen to Worcefter. It was anciently called Branonium, which the Welfh corrupted into Wra? 7 go?it prefixing Caer, as was their method ; and thence our Worcefter : it fignifies the city ad jrontem aquee. The commandery here, formerly belonging to St. John’s of Jerufalem, is now pofTeffed by the hofpitable My. Wylde : it is a fine old houfe of timber in the form of a court: the hall makes one fide thereof, roofed with Irifh oak : the windows adorned with imagery and coats armorial of Rained glafs : built for the reception of pilgrims : it Rands juR without the fouth gate of the city in the London road, where the heat of the famous battle happened between king Charles TI. and Oliver Cromwell. Digging in the garden they frequently find the bones of the flain. Above, in the park, is to be feen a great work, of four baRions, called the Royal Mount, whence a valhm and ditch runs both ways to encompafs this fide of the city. Here I fuppofe the Rorm began, when the RoyaliRs were driven back into the city with great daughter; and the king efcaped being made a prifoner in the narrow Rreet at this gate (as they fay) by a loaded cart of hay purpofely overthrown j by that means he had time to retire at the oppofite gate to an old houfe called White Ladys, being formerly a nunnery in poffeffion of the family of Cookfeys, where he left his gloves and garters, which a defeendant of that family, of the fame name, now keeps. The chapel of this nunnery is Randing, and has fome painted faints upon the wall of one end. A mile and half above the fouth gate, on the top of the hill, is the celebrated Perry wood, where Oliver Cromwell’s army lay. The collegiate church is Rately enough: in it is buried the reRlefs king John i not where now his monument Rands in the choir before the high altar, but under a little Rone before the altar of the eaRermoR wall of the church ; on each fide him, upon the ground, lie the effigies of the two holy bifiiops and his chief faints WolRan and Ofwald, from whofe vicinity lie hoped to be fafe from harm: the image of the king likewife I fuppofe formerly lay here upon the ground, now elevated upon a tomb in the choir as aforefaid. There is a large and handfome Rone chapel over the monument of prince Arthur, fon of Henry VII. on the fouth fide of the high altar. The cloyRers are very perfedf, and the chapter-houfe is large, fupported, as to its arched roof, with one umbilical pillar: it is now become /l/// / Jt'luus u//u’fit 6-c/vf-c iAt: cZ^tur ul //t'/'C€./tc 7 ' {ZAo//'. jS ■■■'1 I J J ; t •, > I f !■, ' \ .. H' ■ t % \ . { :: ■ i I J 1 r' ! ) •: 3 ' ARIC 0:r^IVM 8s p t^21. Jtu.^lep delch , BjJlAr. J ,C. V^ioins Civitatis formam CGnTecrat W. S tuk^’ey. ITER IV. 69 become a library well furnldied, and has a good many old manufciipts. There is a large old gate-houfe ftanding, and near it the cafcle, with a very high artificial mount or keep nigh the river. We met here with an odd infcance of a prodigious memory, in a perfon the powers of whofe foul are run out (as we may fpeak) intirely into that one; for ctherwife his capacity is very vreak : if we name any paffage in the whole Bible, he will immediately . tell you what book, chapter, and verfe, it is in ; a truly living concordance. Here are a great many churches, and in good repair : one fteeple is od;a:ngular, another is remarkable for its lofty fpire. A large bridge of fix arches over the beautiful Severn, enriched on both fides with pleafaiit meadovrs. This is a large city, very populous and bufy, and affords feveral fine profpedls, particularly from Perry wood. No doubt but this was a Roman city ; yet we could find no remains, but a place in it called Sidbury, which feems to retain from its name fome memorial of that fort. A Roman road goes hence along the river to Upton, where antiquities are dug up, (I take \t iov Tpoceffa of Ravennas) and fo to Tewkibury, Ypocf.ssa. where it meets with the Ricning-ffreet way. A little belovr Worcefter a river called Teme falls into the Severn ; and many other fynonymous rivers there are in England, befide the great Thames, which fhows it a com¬ mon name to rivers in the old Celtic language, and the fame wdth the Greek Uorauaq, the firff fyllable cut off. A little above, a river called Salt- warp falls into the Severn from Dioitwich, a Roman towm, which occurs too in Ravennas under the name of Sali?iis ■, and they ffill make fait at Sarkis. the place. From hence I made an excurfion to Great Malvern, a con- fiderable priory at the bottom of a prodigious hill of that name: the church is very large and beautiful, with admirable painted glafs in all the windows, and feveral old monuments : upon a if one now in the body of the church, but taken from without the fouth fide in a garden, which was anciently the fouth Vv'ing, this. PHiLOSOPHVS DIGNVS BONVS ASTROLOGVS LOTHERINGj VIR PIVS AC HVMILIS IVIONACHVS PRIOR HVIVS OViLlS MAC lACET IN CISTA GEOMPTRICVS AC ABACISTA I30CT0R WALCHERVS FLET PLEBS DOLET VNDJQ, CLERVS HVIC LVX PRiMA MORI DEDET' OCIOBRIS SENlOKt VIVAT UT IN CELIS EXORET QVISQ. FiDELlS M. C. XXXV.§ there is a carved done image, by the fouth wail of the choir, of very rude and ancient workmandrip : it is a knight covered with mail and his furcoat; in his right hand a halbert like a pick-axe, in his left a round target. Here are many coats of arms and cognizances upon a glazed fort of brick ; fuch I have feen at other places. A handfome gate-houfe is left, and from the houfes m the towm you command a very noble profpefl: over Wcrcefrer, as far as Edghill, as they tell us : it is thought the Malvern has metals in its bowels. V/e diverted ouifeives, as we rode through Dv.an forefl, with a houfe after the primitive Ryle, built round an oak tree, whofe branches are Rill green with leaves. Vide Vitruv. L. II. C. I. Two thoufand years ago, one would have fufpedfed it to be a Druid’s. The city of Hereford probably fprung up from the ruin of the Roman Ai-iconhinu now KencheRer, three miles off, higher up the river Wye, but Aricomum not very near it; which may be a reafon for its decay. Ariconium Rands 1 ab. upon a little brook called the Ine, which thence encompafling the walls LXXXV. of Hereford fails into the Wye. Two great Roman ways here crofs eacli other: one called the Port-way comes from Bidlaum, now'^ Buelt, in RadnorRiire; paffing eaRward by KencheRer, through Stretton, over the T river § \Vm. of Ma'-iniEurv, p. ^>5 tells a flory lie had frora this Walkerins. river Lng, to Stretton Grantham upon the Frome, it goes to Worcefter: the other road comes from the foutli, and Abergavenny, Gobannium, by Old town formerly Blefcium ; fo by Dov/re a-crofs the Golden vale and Archcnheld to the river Wye, which it paifes at Eaton, where is a Roman camp for fecurity, and a bridge for convenience of the palTage: thence it goes to Kencliefter,. ib northwards by Stretford: this Archenfield feems to retain the name of Ariconiiim. Nothing remaining of its fplendour, but a piece of a temple probably, with a niche which is five foot high and three broad within, built of Roman brick, Rone, and indilToluble mortar : the figure of it is in the fore-mentioned plate. There are many large foundations near it. A very fme Mofaic floor a few years ago was found inti re, foon torn to pieces by the ignorant vulgar. I took up fome remaining ffones of different colours, and feveral bits of fine potters ware of red earth. Mr. Anbury in his manufeript notes fays, anno 1670, old Roman buildings of brick were difeovered under-ground, on which oaks grew : the bricks are of two forts j fome equilaterally fquare, feven or eight inches, and one inch thick ; fome two foot fquare, and three inches thick. A bath was here found by Sii' john Hofkyns about feven foot fquare : the pipes of lead intire ; thofe of brick were a foot long, three inches fquare, let artificially one into another: over thefe I fuppofe was a pavement. This is an excellent inveiition for heating a room, and might well be introduced among us in v/inter time. In another place is a hollow, where burnt wheat has been taken up ; fome time fince colonel Dantfey fent a little box full of it to the Antiquarian Society. All around the city you may eafily trace the walls, fome flones being left every where, though overgrown by hedges and timber trees. The ground of the city is higher than the level of the circumjacent countiy. There appears no fign of a fofs or ditch around it. The fite of the place is a gentle eminence of a fquarifh form ; the earth black and rich, overgrown with brambles, oak trees, full of flones, foun¬ dations, and cavities where they have been digging. Many coins and the like have been found. Mr. Ja. Hill, J. C. has many coins found here, fome of which he gave to the faid fociety. Colonel Dantfey has paved a cellar with fquare bricks dug up here: my lord Coninglhy has judicioufly adorned the floor of his evidence-room with them. This city is over¬ looked and flieltered towards the north with a prodigious mountain of fleep crowned at the .top with a vaft camp, which ingirdles its whole apex earnt)^ ' woi'ks altogether inacceflible: it is called Credon hill, feemingly Britifii : if you Vvill take the pains to climb it, you are prefented with a mofl glorious and extenfive profpeft, as far as St. Michael’s mount in Mon- moudifhire; bipartite at top, Farnaflus-like, and of efpecial fame and refort among the zealots of the Roman creed, who think this holy hill was fent hither by St. Patrick out of Ireland, and has wonderful efficacy in feveral cafes. On the other hand you fee the vaft black mountain feparating Erecknockfliire from this county: the city Ariconium underneath ap¬ pears like a little copfe. On the other fide of the Wye you fee Dinder .Sutton w'hereon is a Roman camp: and upon the Lug are Sutton walls, WALLS. anotlrer vaft Roman camp upon a hill overtopping a beautiful vale, the Pvo. car:;p. I'oyal maufioii of tlie rnoft potent king Offa, but moft notorious for the execi'abie murder of young king Ethelbert, allured thither under pretext of courting his daughter, and buried in the adjacent church of Marden, fitu.ate in a marfli by the nver fide: hence his body v.?as afterwards con¬ veyed to Hereford and enflirined ; but the particular place we cannot find. I luppoie this martyr’s merits were obliterated by the fucceeding faint, Cantilupe, Cantilupe, tlie great miracle-monger on this hde the kingdom, as his tutor and namefake Thomas Becket was in Kent., In the north wing of the cathedral of Hereford is the flirine where Hereford. Cantilupe was buried, and which wing he himfelf built: his pidfure is painted on the wall: all around are the marks of hooks where the banners, lamps, reliques, and the like prefents, were hung up in his honour; and, no doubt, vaft were the riches and fpiendor which filled this place ; and it is well guarded and barricadoed to prevent thieves from making free with his fuperfluities : the fhrine is of ftone, carved round with knights in armour ; for what reafon I know not, unlefs they were his life-guard. I law a book, printed at St. Omar’s, of no little bulk, which contained an account of his miracles. The church is very old and flately, the roof, ailes, and chapel, have been added to the more ancient part by fucceeding bifltops, as aifo the towers, cloyders, &c. The mod beautiful chapter- houfe of a decagonal form, and having an umbilical pillar, was deftroyed in the civil wars. I faw its poor remains, whence I endeavoured to redore the whole in drawing as well as I could, from the fymmetry and manner of the fabric, which I guels to be about Henry the Sixth's time: there are about four windows now danding, and the fpringing of the done arches between, of fine rib-work, which compofed the roof; of that fort of architecture v/herewith King’s-college chapel at Cambridge is built : two windows were pulled down, a very little while ago, by bilhop BifTe, which he ufed in new fitting up the epifcopal palace : under the windows in every compartment was painted a king, bifliop, faint, virgin, or the like; fome I found didincf enough, though fo long expofed to the weather. Here are the greated number of monuments of the bifhops I ever faw, many valuable brafles and tombs, one of Sir Richard Penbrug, knight of the garter, which I drew out for Mr. Andis : in our Lady’s chapel, now the library, a fine brafs of Ifabella the wife of Richard Delamare, ob. 1421. Between the cathedral and epifcopal palace is a mod venerable pile, exceeding it in date, as I conjeClure from its manner of compofure; built intirely of done, roofed with done : it confids of two chapels, one above the other : the ground-plot is a perfedf fquai e, befide the portico and choir : four pillars in the middle, with arches every way, form the whole : the portico feems to have a grandeur in imitation of Roman works, made of many arches retiring inwards : two pillars on each fide confid of fingle dones : the lowermod chapel, which is ibme deps under ground, is dedicated to St. Catharine, the upper to St. Magdalen, and has feveral pillars againd the wall, made of fingle dones, and an odd eight-fquare cupola upon the four middle pillars : there have been much paintings upon the walls : the arched roof is turned very artfully, and feems to have a tade of that kind of architefture ufed in the declenfion f the Roman empire. The city of Hereford dands upon a fine gravel, encompalTed with fprings and rivulets, as well as drong w.ills, towers, and lunettes ; all which, with the embattlements, are pretty perfect, and enabled them to v/ithdand a mod vigorous fiege of the Scots army under general Lefley. The cadle v/as a noble work, built by one of the Edwards before the Conqued, drongly walled about, and ditched: there is a very lofty artificial keep, walkd once at top, having a well in it faced vv^ith good done : by the fide of the ditch arofe a fpring, which fuperdition confecrated to St. Ethelbert: there is a handfome old done arch eredled over it. Without the walls are the ruins of Black Friers monadery, and a pretty donecrofs intire; round which originally were the cloyders built, as now the cloyders of the cathedral inclofe / ^ .'Leomin¬ ster. TAB. AXIL ITER IV. ^ndofe another fuch. Thefe crofTes were in the nature of a pulpit, whence a monk preached to the people fiib dio, as is now praclifed once a year in the cloyfters of fome colleges in the univeiTities ; and I fuppofe Paul’s crofs in London was fomewliat of this fort. There was iikewife an opulent priory, dedicated to our country faint, Guthlac of Crowland, now intirely ruined: the fituatlon of it in a marfiay place beft fuited him. White Friers on the other fide the town is intirely ruined : a gate-houfe and feveral other parts were feen by many now living. All thefe religious conventions (as tradition goes) had fubterraneous parfages into the city under the ditch, that the holy fraternities might retire from the fury of war, upon Gccafion. In our way from Hereford to Leominfter w^e afeended with fome difhculty the mighty Dynmaur hill, the meaning of which appellation is the great hill: it makes us fome amends for the tedioufnefs of climbing, by the extenfive and pleafant profpedf it affords us from its woody crefl com¬ manding a vafl horizon. Leominder is a town of brifk trade in manufaefures of their admirable wool, in hat-making, leather, and many others ; it lies in a valley luxuriant above meafure. Three rivers of very fwift current go through the town, bchdes others very near: nor will the induftrious inhabitants fufter the water-nymphs that prefide over the ftreams to be idle : for with mills, and machinery of various contrivance, they make them fubfervient to many ufes in the way of their trades. Here was a confiderable priory on the north-hde of the church, two ailes of which are very ancient, and I fuppofe belonged to the priory: two other ailes of more lightfome work have been added. The mayor, who invited us to attend him thither, had a long black caducciis to walk withall, tipped with filver. There are fome poor remains of the priory, chiefly a little ehapel, which I imagine belonged to the prior’s family : underneath it runs a pretty rivulet, which ufed to grind his corn, now converted to a fulling-mill: near are very large ponds for flili, to furnifn the monks on faffing days. There was a fine gate-houfe, pulled down not long fince, near the Ambry clofe, denominated from the place (Almery) in which they gave their feraps away to poor people at the gate, as 1 have obferved at leveral other religious houfes: this is reckoned a gieat argument of their charity, whilft idle folks loft their time in waiting for it. Found the crofs built of timber I faw this infeription. Five deo grains^ toil ?mindo tumulatus ^ crimine mundatus^ femper trajijire paratus^ and fome more fluff of that fort. In this town the foil is luxuriant aoove meafure: trees of all forts flourifh prodigioufly : v;e were furprifed at the extravagant bulk of plants, leaves of dock as big as an ordinary tea-table, comfry leaves as long as my arm. Mr. Gale and 1 difputed a good Vv^hile about borage quite grown out of cognizance. Vve were entertained by my lord Coningfby at his feat of Hampton-court, three miles otf: at dinner time, one of the ancient bards in an adjacent room played to us upon the harp, and at proper intervals threw in many notes of his voice, with a fwelling thrill, after a furprifing manner, much in the tone of a flute. This is .a fine feat, built by our countryman Harry of Eolingbroke, afterwards Henry the Fourth: it is, caflle like, fituate in a valley, up.ui a rapid river under coverture of Dynmaur: the gardens very pleafant, (the flneft greens I ever faw) terminated by vafl woods covering all the fioping fide of the hill; whofe wavy tops, when agitated by t'ne wind, entertain the eye with a moft agreeable ipecfacle, and verdant theatric concavity, as high, and as far, as you can well fee. Here is a great command Religious Ritik^ 22 li'tuJcc/cj/ ^l!JobikGimo Tlvoiaia? G)iiiiti (3e Comixg&y 33 P . EKu'/^xll. 73 ITER IV. of water, on all Tides of the houfe, for fountains, bafons, canals: within are excellent pictures of the earl’s anceftors, and others, by the belt hands ; Holben, Dobfon, Van Dyke, Sir P. Lely, &c. there is an original of the founder, Henry the Fourth, of queen Elizabeth, of the duchefs of Portf- mouth, &c. The windows of the chapel are well painted, fome images of the Coningfbys: here are two new done ftair-cafes after a geometrical method, wdth a view, I fuppofe, of fecurity from fire ; the record-room is at top of a tower arched with done, paved with Roman brick; an iron door. From the top of the houfe goes a dair-cafe, which they fay has a fubter- raneous conveyance into Dynmaur wood; which was the method of ancient times to efcape the lad extremity of a fiege. After dinner my lord did us the honour to ride out with us into the park, which for beauty, diverfity, and ufe, is very fine: it is eight miles in circumference,, and has all the variety of fcenes you can imagine j about 1200 head of deer in it: there are exterifive profpedfs, on one fide reaching into Wiltfliire; on another, over the Welfh mountains ; lawns, groves, canals, hills and plains. There is a pool three quarters of a mile long, very broad, included between two great woods: the dam that forms it acrofs a valley, cod 8001. and was made in a fortnight by 200 hands. There is a new river cut quite through the park, the channel of v/hich for a long way together is hewn out of the rock; this dream enriches with derivative channels vad trafts of land that before was barren. Here are new gardens and canals laid out, and new plantations of timber in proper places to complete its pleafures; warrens, decoys, flieep-walks, padures for cattle, and the like, intirely fupply the houfe with all necefi'aries and conveniences, without recourfe to a market. His lordfliip fhowed us in his dudy four or five vad books in manufcript, being tranfcripts out of the record-offices, relating to his manors, royalties, edates and muniments, w^hich cod him 500I. in writing and fees : many of his galleries and paflagesare adorned with the genealogy of his family, their pidfures, arms, grants, hidory, dec. The Roman road from Ariconium to Uriconium lies wed of Lemder by Stretford ; then pafi'es over the Arrow, the Oney, the Lug; fo through Biriton, tw’o miles north of Lemder, where they dig up the pavement of it, as it runs through the grounds, made of fquarifli rag-done. Our next expedition was to Ludlow, a place of fame and antiquity, the Ludlow. rcfidence of the lords prefidents of Wales under the prince. In the way hither w^e found the eimiymus pannonicus in the hedges. This town is walled c^uite round, and pretty drong, having five gates, fituate upon a hill¬ top, running from fouth-ead with an afeent towards north-wed, on which, precipious to the north and wed, dands the cadle. On the fouth fide runs the Teme, fettered with numerous dams acrofs, in nature of cataracts ; by which means abundance of mills are turned : the fuperfiuous w^ater pours over them, cafeade-like, wdth a mighty noife. Here is a very good church and handfome tower, with a piealant ring of fix bells in the crofs thereof: the windows are full of painted glafs pretty intire: there are fome old monuments of the lords prefidents, &c. and an infeription upon the north wall of the choir relating to prince Arthur, who died here: his bowels were buried in this place; one told me they took up his heart not long fince in a leaden box. In the eadern angle of the choir is a clofet, anciently called the God-houje., where the prieds locked up their roods, wafers, and fuch things: it has a window drongly barred outward. This church is confecrated to St Laurence ; and in the market-place is an hexagonal cidern, or conduit, like a crofs 3 on the top of which is a long done crofs, bearing a niche with an image of that faint in it. Wed of the church was a U college. ITER college, ROW converted to a dwelling-houfe, whofe owner iliowed us a pretty colleftion of pidiures, one by Holben. There was a rich priory cut of the town on the north fide j fmall ruins now to be feen, except a little adjoining church once belonging to it: about the fame place an arched gate-way went crofs the ftreet, but now demoliflied. The greateft rarity ■J AB. IV. Ludlow is the noble and ftrong caftle and palace, placed on the north- y. weft angle of the town upon a rock, commanding a delightful profpedl northward j but on the weft, where runs the river, it is overlooked by a liigh hill. It is ftrongly environed by embattled walls of great height and thicknefs, with towers at convenient diftances : that half which is within the walls of the town is fecured moreover with a deep ditch ^ the other • founded on the folid rock. It is divided into two feparate parts ; the caftle, properly fo fpeaking, wherein the palace and lodgings ; and the green, or out-work, what i fuppofe they call the Barbican : the firft is in the ftrongeft or north-weft corner, and has likewife walls and ditch hewn out of the rock towards the green : this was the reftdence of the lords preiidents : it was a noble ftrudture, but now, alas ! only groans out with its laft breath the glories of its ancient ftate. A chapel here has abundance of coats of warms upon the panels j fo has the hall, together with lances, fpears, firelocks and old armour j but the prefent inhabitants live upon the fale of the timber, ftone, iron, and other materials and furniture, which dwindles aw'ay infenfibly. Here died prince Arthur. The green takes in a large com- pafs of ground, wdierein was formerly the court of judicature and records, the ftables, garden, bowling-green and other offices; all which now lie in ruins, or are let out at rack-rents to thofe that pilfer what they can: over feveral of the ftable-doors are queen Elizabeth’s arms, the earls of Pembroke’s, and others. Hence we went along the river Teme to Tenbury. In a niche in the chancel is a ftone, a yard long, of a child of lord Arundel’s of Sutton-houfe, as they fay, drelfed like a knight, crofs-legged: another knight crofs- legged under tlie fouth wall of the church j on his fhield a chevron between three flars pierced. In the meadow, upon the river, a tumulus covered with old oaks, called Caftle-mead bower, or burrow. Bewdley. Bev/dley is a pleafant town by fweet meadows upon the Severn, which is the moft delightful river I have feen. Here, upon a hill over-looking the town, is Tlckenhall, built by Henry VIL for his fon prince Arthur j part of the old palace is ftanding, of timber-work : here was a park too, part of Wire foreft. This is a thriving town. . A mile off is Ribsford, the feat of the lord Herbert of Cherbury, pleafantly encompafied with woods. Here is a good piuture of William I. earl of Pembroke: - the ends of the hills toward the river are generally rocks. Biackfton hill has an hermitage cut TAB.XIIT. out of it, v/ith a chapel and feveral apartments, which I have reprefented in XIV. profpect and ground-plot; near it is a pretty rock upon the edge of the v/ater, covered with Nature’s beautiful canopy of oaks and many curious plants : near tiie water, upon the rock, liver-wort grows plentifully. They dig; up coal liereabouts, about twelve yards under ground is but two rrnles off: in Kederminifer Adton. In Wulvernampton the church a crofs-legged monument of Sir Tho. cliurch are feveral old monuments ; a brafs ifatue of Sir Richard Levefon, who fouglit the Spaniards under Sir Francis Drake: there is a very old ftone pulpit, and a very old ftone crofs in the church-yard. Was I'to cliufe a country refidence for health and plea fare, it v/ould be undoubtedly on the weft fide of the illand, not far from th.is river, and where it is moft diftant from the fea j for natural reafons, which I need not mention to you. Bewdley, 17 Sept. 1721. de^tny. I Jlii.f / V.' i\n ’ i* . 13 ^ BlackftoTL Caove, &: Z^^ITer/fej fy- Aoujs. /z^^ Bew. ITER ROMANUM. V. Salve magna parens frugum Britanica tellus Magna virum ! tibi res antiqua laudis & artis Ingredior. SanBos aufus recludere fontes.. Antiquum repeto Romana per oppida curfum. ViRG. Nam quid Britannum ccelum differre putamus. Lucret, vi. To my Lord WINCHELSEA. T he joEirney I here prefent your lordfhlp is inti rely Roman ; for I went from London full northward to the banks of the Humber, Upon the famous Hermen-ftreet road, paffing through Lincoln: then coafting about a little, at Lincoln again I took the Fofs way to its inter- fection of the Watling-ftreet in Warwickfhire: upon that I returned back to London, and purfued it to the fea-coafts of Kent: likewife fome part of the Icening-ftreet, as it croffes the others, where it lay not too far out of my main route, was the fubjedl of my enquiry: fo that in this account is fomewhat of all thefe four great roads of Britain, which our old monkilh writers make a conliderable harangue about, but are fcarce able fully to diftinguifh them, and of the reafon of their names fay but little to our fatisfadlion : but the ways themfelves, as drawn quite a-crofs the illand in different directions, are fufficiently manifeft to a traveller of com¬ mon fagacity. Though my difcoveries herein are mean enough, yet I reckon this an happy ara of my life, becaufe, the very day before I undertook it, I had the good fortune to be known to your lordfhip, and at the end of it enjoyed the pleafurable repofe of your delightful feat at Eafcwel, but what is more, your own converfation : fince then your many favours, like all other felicities in life, give me uneafinefs in the midft of joy, as fenfible of my own little merit. I have no hope indeed of retalia¬ ting ; and I know that great minds like yours imitate Providence, expeCling no return from its beneficiaries : but it is confentaneous to human nature to endeavour at it, and offer tokens of gratitude, however unequal. The delight you take in refcuing the monuments of our anceftors, your inde¬ fatigable zeal in collecting them, your exquifite knowledge in the Greek, Roman, and Britifli antiquities, and efpecially your great love for thofe of your own country, which you continually commit to writing in your private commentaries, add a reputation to thefe Rudies, and make the Mufes hope for a funfhine, when men of your lordfhip’s noble birth enter¬ tain them with that familiarity and condefcenfion which was one great glory of the Auguftan age. For rr^ 76 Roman roach. V. For arts nnlitary and civil, that became a nioft wife government, the Romans beyond compare exceeded all nations ; but in their roads they Irave exceeded tliemfeives; nothing but the higheft pitch of good fenfe and public i’pirit could prompt them to fo immenfe a labour: it is altogether alionilhing to confider how they begirt the whole globe,* as it were, with new meridians and great circles all manner of ways; as one dhys, Mugnornm fuerat filers hcec cura ^liritum Conjlratas pajfim concelebrare njias. As well as ufe, they ftudied eternity in all their works, juit oppofite to our prefent narrow fouls, who fay. It will ferve our time well enough. For this reafon they made few bridges, as liable to decay j but fords were laid ’With great fcill and labour, many of which remain firm to this day without any reparation. No doubt but the Romans gave names to thefe roads from the commanders under whofe government and diredlion they ^vere laid out, as was their cuftom elfewhere : but becaufe they generally held their polls here but for a fliort time, and perhaps fcaice any finifhed one road intirely j therefore, whilft each endeavoured to ftamp his own name upon them, fo it fell out that they were all forgotten. The prefent appellatives feem to be derived either from the Britifh or Saxon: William the Conqueror calls them Chemhii majores in confirming the laws of St. Edward about thefe four ways. All mifdemeanours committed upon them were decided by 'the king himfelf. Though there was no need of paving or raifing a bank in fome places, yet it was done for a perpetual diredlion ; and every where I fuppofe flones were fet at a mile’s diftance, many of which are ftill left. Of thefe four celebrated ways, the Fofs and Icening-ftreet traverfe the kingdom from fouth-wefl to north-eafl, parallel to one another; the Watling-ftreet croffed them quite the contrary wny, with an equal obliquity : the Hermen-ftreet paffed diredlly north and fouth ; and befides thefe are very many more. I purpofe not to give a full hiftory of them here, any farther than I travel upon them, referving that till I am better able. Hermem- Somewhat on the Hermen-flreet is faid already in my firft letter about STREET. Lincolnfliire, where it divides itfelf into two, which we may call the old TAB.LVI branch. Here I defign to fearch it up to its fountain-head. As to its name, we have no reafon to feek any farther than the Saxon language, where Here fignihes an army ; Hereman,, a foldier or warriour i-f* the Flermen-llreet then is the military flreet, in the lame propriety the Romans ufed it. It begins at Newhaven, at the mouth of the river Oufe in Suli'ex, and palies on the w'eft fide the river through Radmil, probably taking its name thence ; fo through Lewis by Isfield: then it feems to pafs over the river at Sharnbridge, as we may guefs by its name, and fo proceeds to Eaft Grinfled, but I fuppofe loft in pading through the great woods : then through Surrey it goes by Stane-ftreet, Croydon, Stretham, and, by its pointing, we may fuppofe was defigned originally to pafs the Thames at the feri'y called Stangate by Lambeth, where it coincides with the Watling- ftreet. Of this i can fay nothing yet, having not travelled it. There I appreliend the road went before London became very confiderable j but when the majefty of the place fuddenly arofe to great height, this road, and all others dircdled this w^ay, defledled a little from their primitive intention, to * In longas orhcni qui fecuere vias. Ovid. Amor. II. 16. t Among the old Egyptians, Herodotus tells us, {Euterpe) one fort of foldiers was called JJer 7 not'jhia ; latui armu. to falute the j^ugujla of Britain, deftined to be the altera Roma ; and tliis has rendered them all obfcure near the city. It is generally thought the Hermen-ftreet goes hence through Bifliopigate, and along the northern road ; but I apprehend that to be of much later Banding than the original one, which goes more on the weft. By the quotation i mentioned in my firft letter, when upon this road, out of Mr. Gale’s Itinerary, of Lowlfworth near Bifhopfgate, it feems as if it was done in Lollius Urbicus his time. The ori¬ ginal one perhaps paftes through unfrequented ways near Enfield and Hermen- ftreet, feeming to retain the old name : on the eaftern fide of Enfield chace, by Bufli hill, is a circular Britifh camp upon an eminence declining fouth- Br. v/eft j but our ancient road appears upon a common on this fide of Hert¬ ford by Ball’s park, and fo pafies the river below Hertford j then goes through Ware park, and falls into the prefent road on this fide Wades- milh-f* and fo to Royfton. Here muft have been feveral ftations upon it, but I fee no hope of ever retrieving their names : that Hertford is one is realbnable to think, it having been ever in the royal demefne, and palling a river at a proper diftance from London : but in the affignment of Diirc- cohrcvis here, I take leave to dili'ent from Camden and other learned men ; it by no means anfwers the diftances in the Itinerary, or the import of the name j the Red Ford, or the Ford of Harts, are fancies without foundation ; either trajethis militaris is the meaning, or it is the pallage of the river Ard, now the Beane : Ardley at the fpring-head of it: ardh in Britifh is altus. At Royfton the Icening-ftreet crofies the Hermen-ftreet, coming from Ter Dunftable going into Suffolk: this about Baldock appears but like a field- 5 "' way, and fcarce the breadth of a coach, the farmers on both fides indu- ftrioufty ploughing it up : between Baldock and Icleford it goes through an intrenchment, taking in the top of a hill of good compafs, but of no great elevation : it confifts of a vallum only, and fuch a thing as I take to be properly the remains of a Britifh oppidum : it is called Wiibury hill, w and is faid to have been woody not intirely beyond memory : this ftreet, quite to the Thames in Oxfordfhire, goes at the bottom of a continued ridge of hills called the Chiltern, being chalk, the natural as well as civil boundaries between the counties of Hertford and Bedford, very fteep northward. Ickleford retains the name of the ftreet, which at this place paftes a rivulet with a ftoney ford wanting reparation. Near Periton church has been a caftle of Saxon or Norman times, with a keep. Thefe high chalk hills, having a fine profpedi; northward, are covered with a beautiful turf like the Wiltfhire dowms, and have fuch like barrows here and there, and indeed are but a continuation of them quite a-crofs the king¬ dom. Near Hexton is a fquare Roman camp upon a lingula^ or pro- ^ montory, juft big enough for the purpofe: it is very fteep quite round, except at a narrow flip where the entrance is j double ditched, and very X ftrong, t The Roman Ration between London and Hertford (I fuppofe they had one every ten miles, if conveniently it could be) was probably at Chefhunt, anciently Crjirehunt ; and it is likely there was a fortification there. Wadesmill retains the name of Vadum. It is very eafy to difeern where the old Roman road becomes the prefsnt road northw'ard, by the alteration of its diredlion, near a little rill between Wadesmill and Ware. Vv^adesmill was a Roman ford, vadum., wath ; whence its name : and from hence the Roman road is the common one, or poll road, to Chefterton, or Durobriva., upon the river Nen. K. Fklward fenior, in 909, the qth year of his leign, built a caftle there, fays H. Hunt; where it is printed Herefordiam inftead of Hertford.}am. Cqjirum non immerfum, fed pulcherrimutn., inter Bemficiam (the Bean) Lf Mimera ist Luge flumina, iffe. Ceftrehunt, Chefhunt, is via ad caflrum. Hvynt, hynt, is in Welfii a gang, or road, a by¬ road, fhort road. ilrong, but land-locked with hills every way, except to the north-eafl:, and that way has a good profpedt: under it is a hue fpring : it feems made by the Pvomans when they were mafters of all the country on this hde, and extending their arms northward. On High downs is a pleafant hoofe by a wood, where is a place called Chapel clofe ; in this wood are barrows and dikes, perhaps of BritiOi original. Liiiho is a fine plot of ground upon a hill llieep to the north-well:, where a iiorfe-race is kept: from under it goes the Icening-ftreet by Stretley to Dunftable. North of Baldoc we vifited the camp by Afnwel, taken notice of in Camden, called Harrury Harbury banks : it is of a theatrical form, confifting wholly of an Banks. i 5 r. though Roman coins have been found in it, I am inclinable to think it is earlier than their times. Between Calcot and Henxworth, two miles off, feveral Roman antiquities have been dug up this year; many in the cuftody of my friend Simon Degg, elq; he gave me this account of it: fome Vvorkmen, digging gravel for the repair of the great northern road, Ifruck upon fome earthen veliels, or large urns, full of burnt bones and alhes, but rotten : near them a human Ikcdeton, with the head tovrards the fouth- eail:, the feet north-weft: feveral bodies were found in this manner not above a foot under the furface of the earth, and with urns great or fmall near them, pateras of fine red earth, fome with the impreffion of the maker on the bottom: there were likewife glafs lachrymatories, ampullas^ a jibida of brafs, fix fmall glafs rings, two long glafs beads of a green colour, and other fragments. Salinie. Northward ftill upon a high fandy hill, by the bank of the river Ivel, is a Roman camp called Chefterton: under it lies the town called Sandy, or Salndy, the Salmae of the Romans in Ptolemy, where great quantities of Roman and Britifii antiquities have been found, and immenfe numbers of coins, once a brafs Otho., vafes, urns, lachrymatories, lamps. Mr. Degg has a cornelian intaglia, and a Biitifti gold coin dug up here, ‘\tajcio upon it. Thomas Bromfal efq. has a fine filver Cunobelm found here, of elegant work ; others of Titus, Agrippina, Trajan, Hadrian, Auguftus, Antoninus Pius, Fauftina, Conftantius Chlorus, Conftantiiius Magnus, Caraufius, Aleftus, Tetricus, and many more.^ His great grandfather, high'ftierift' of this county, preferved the invaluable Cottonian library from plunder in the time of the commonwealth, whilft it was at Stratton in this county, about anno 1650. The foil here is fand, perfedlly like that on the fea Ihore. I imagine a Roman road paffed by this place weftward from Grantchefter by Cambridge. Return we to Royfton again. Going upon the Icening-ftreet the other vray, juft upon the edge of Cambridgeiliire, we come to Chefterford upon Cameori Cambridge, near Icleton and Strethal. In July, 1719, I diicovered the veftigia of a Roman city here : the foundation of the walls is very apparent quite round, though level with the ground, including a TAE.LIX. fpace of about fifty acres; great part of it ferves for a caufeway to the public Cambridge road from London: the Crown inn is built upon it :§ the reft is made ufe of by the countrymen for their carriages to and fro in the fields: the earth is ftill high on both fides of it: in one part they have been long digging this wall up for materials in building and mending the roads: there 1 meafured its breadth twelve foot, and remarked its compofition * Vafl: quantities of coins found at Gamlingay, as I am told by Mr. Peck. § June II, 1729, Mr. Welby of Denton tells me, Gardiner, who keeps the Crown inn at Camboritwriy lately found many Roman coins there, and fells them for four pence a piece. O R IT ViM (Z7??t^'rra/iet> y/a^'^^7A/f/tZ z^i->/77\/ 1 0 ?//^,’/ ''A, i * 'M:.- -i» > / yj^i- ^ -^yy. #,*,■ "'■;.4 ..■•■■ V .tli ^• .■■i'. ■.■ «i;. ■I ^gyl , ■ m-y-.-y . ' ..A ■ •'v ' • • ^ .• ^ 1^. j. t .■•- . ' .'■ 5 ' '■ . - 'h •/ ^, ■ , ■■ € . ,'% ■i 3 .••■. .. ;- '!''. ,..._. »■» “ . ... "^ ■ ’A% ^'••- - 5 . -sfv'?-^; ■',. ■ \:?- . ■ 1 ’ * ' '■ 'V: 5 ’ ■S^. . ^'4 A ■• V‘ •*r^^ 'I /• ' '/ / • fr -:l ;. iK'. > 1 L 79 I E 11 . V. compofition of rag ftone, flints and Roman brick : in a little cottage hard by, the parlour is paved with bricks ; they are fourteen inches and an half long, and nine broad. In the north-weft end of the city,§ the people pro- mifed to fliow me a wonderful thing in the corn, which they obferved every year wdth fome fort of fuperftition. I found it to be the foundation of a Roman temple very apparent, it being almoft harveft time; here the poverty of the corn growing where the walls flood, defines it to fuch a nicety, that I was able to mealure it with exactnefs enough: thedimenfions of the cell, or naos^ were fifteen foot in breadth, forty in length; the pronaos, where the fleps were, appeared at both ends, and the wall of the portico around, whereon flood the pillars. I remarked that the city was juft a thoufand Roman feet in breadth, and that the breadth to the length was as three to five, of the fame proportion as they make their bricks : it is pofited obliquely to the cardinal points, its length from north-weft to fouth-eaft; whereby wholefomenefs is fo well provided for, according to the direction of Vitruvius. The river Cam runs under the wall, whence its name j for I have no fcruple to think this was the Camhoritum of Antonirlus, meaning the ford over this river,- or the crooked ford: in Lincolnfhire we called a crooked flick, the butchers ufe, a cambriL* They have found many Roman coins in the city or Borough field, as they call it: I faw divers of them. In this parifti, they fay, has been a royal mianor r not far oif, by Audlenhoufe, upon an eminence is a great Roman camp called Ringhill * a hunting tower of brick now ftands upon it. Beyond this the Icening- fleet goes tov^ard Icleworth in Suffolk, parting the counties of Cambridge XLV and Elfex all the way j and almoft parallel to it runs a great ditch, viz. from Royfton to Balfliam, called Brentditch, where it turns and goes to the river below Cambridge, there called Flightditch. I imagine thefe to be ancient boundaries of the Britons, and before the Roman road w^s made, which naturally enough w^ouId-have ferved for a diftin^ftion by the Saxons, as at other places, had their limits lain hereabouts. Two miles both ways of Royfton is chalky foil about Puckeridge it is gravelly. On Bartlow hills there is a camp too, caflle camps, and Roman antiquities found: I am told of three remarkable barrows thereabouts, where bones have been dug out. At Hadftok they talk of the Ikin of a Danifii king nailed upon the church-doors. Now we fliall take along with us the Itinerary of Antoninus in his fifth journey j for after he has gone from London toward Colchefter, and part of Suffolk, he turns into this Icening-ftreet at Icianis, wLich feems to be Icefworth beyond St. Edmundsbury j from wEence to this Camhoritum is thirty-five miles : from thence to Huntingdon is juft twenty-five, as they are noted; but it is to be fuppofed that the Itinerary went along the Icening-ftreet to Royfton, then took the Hermen-ftreet; for fo the miles exadlly quadrate, Royfton, as being feated upon the interfeclion of thefe two roads, uoRoystok. doubt was a Roman town before Roifia|| built her religious houfe here, Ro- iown. and perpetuated her own name upon the Roman, which is now loft 3 and this _ § Dr. Brady, in his Hiftory of England, p. 48. mentions this city. Kollingfhed, p. 92. h. of his Hifiory ot England, fays a gate of it was ftanding in his time. * Et camuris hirta: fub cornibus aures, Virg. G. III., t The chalk ends about two miles north of Baldoc and Rovfton. t The market-place at Royfton is a large Iquare area, feemingly of Roman defign. II Probably Roifia, wife to Pagan de Beauchamp, Baron 3d of Bedford, who built the caftle of Bedford about the time of the Conqueft. 8o V. Duroci NONTE. this very year they found Roman coins near there: but there feems to be tlie frump of her crofs fall remaining at the corner of the inn julf where the two roads meet. The Flermen-ftreet now coincides ail the way with the common northern road. At Armdnton, denominated from it, paffes an¬ other branch of the river going to Cambridge in Armingford hundred j fo by Caxton, which was probably a baiting-place: there are fome old works without the town. A red clay begins now. Anno 1721, near this road my lord Oxford, digging canals at Wimpole, found many bodies, and pieces of iron rully, the remains of fome battle. Wimpole is now im¬ proved and honoured with his refidence, and the noble Harleian library. At Godmancheifer, or Gormanchefcer, on this fide Huntingdon river, the name of cbejie?' afcertains the Roman cajlrum to have been j nor is there any difpute of it, however critics vary about its name, whether T)iirofiponte or Durocinonte ; whether there was a bridge, a ferry, or a ford, in moil: ancient times : no doubt but the Romans inhabited both lides of the river, and probably rather at fduntingdon, being a much better fitua- tion j therefore, as to antiquities here found, I hold myfelf more excu- fable if at prefent I have nothing to fay. Mr. Camden tells us Roman coins have been frequently ploughed up at Gormanchefter, and Henry of Huntingdon fays it has been a noble city: but I took notice of a wooden bridge over a rivulet between the two towns, which ought not to be forgot, as a grateful and public charity, having this infcription. ROBTUS COOK EMERGENS AQUIS HOC VIATORIBUS SACRUM DD. 1636. In Huntingdon is the houfe where Oliver Cromwell was born : though it is new-built, yet they preferved that room in its firft Rate.* Stukeley. From hence the Hermen-ftreet goes in a ftrait line through Great and Little Stukeley, fo called from the foil, and moft anciently written Styvecle^ fignifying a Riff clay,-|- I fliould be ungrateful to my anceRors, not to mention that hence they had their name and large polfeffions in both towns, and many others hereabouts. I have the genealogy of them from Herebert be Styvecle, mentioned in Madox Hift. Scaccar. cap. xiv.yi?/. 382. 7nag. rot. 12. H. II. rot. 6. Cant. Hunt, which fhows that they had lands here before. His defcendants of this place have been high fheriffs of the counties of Huntingdon and Cambridge more than thirty times, and knights of the Riire in parliament more than forty times: but I remember Lucan fays, -- —perk omnis in illo Nobilitas, cujus laus eji in origine fola. In * May 15, 1732, I rode between Huntingdon and Cambridge, and difcovered evidently that it was a Roman road all the way, pointing ftrait from Godmanchelter to Cambridge caftle. When I told this to Mr. Roger Gale, then at Cotenham, he faid, he had obferved that Roman road which lies on Gogmagog hills to point likewife upon Cambridge caftle ; fo that the ford at Cambridge river is originally Roman : and undoubtedly there was a Roman town at Cambridge, for-the conveniency of paffengers and armies between the A'em and the northern parts beyond Huntingdon. I apprehend Chefterton and Grantchefter were Roman forts and repofitories of corn fiom this country, to be fent to Peterborough, and fo by the Cardike into the north : from the bridge at Cambridge, Bridge ftreet and St. Andrew’s ftreet are continuations, very ft: ait line and dircdtion, of the Roman road. July, 1742, Mr. collector Collins ftiowed me feveral Roman coins, curious and fair, filver and large brafs, foun - lately at Gormanchefter ; Hadrian, Antoninus, Sr and in a both jeverus. f 'Phe Saxon word feems to be the fame with the Greek cr]iS«pof, from irlioiiv. to the primitive, I Little and Great ftifFen, durare, roborare ; dlvipiu to ftifFen, cogere, confcringere : but which i fhall not determine. There are many large tumuli, by the road-lide, at Stukeley : fo one at the town-end of Stilton northwards, and another on the top of the next hill north ward by the road. ■ ■> * (• V M. ’ t -I CLYTTJS Aix-wiytjs Totius Attgxia Auduhi^ai^-us 7^ TuYuAT on Abbatia ue Ramsey (I^ Tapidt. ) J Sc yi7?2lCl/jL7710 ^.r (t a/e. yl7'.^ J)' yCKa ia/^saij. ITCStuA^^j'' yCrh- I T E 11 V. 8i Ill Great Stukeley church is a font of a very ancient make, and in the north aiie a monumental brafs of Sir Nicholas Sty vecle : the legend round the verge of the ftone was kept for fome time in the town cheft, when it was taken off being loofe, but now loft : the effigies being in the fame condition, M'e carried it to be hung up in the hall now belonging to James Torkington efq^ whofe anceftors married the heirefs of the family, and nov/ enjoys the eftate. The Hermen-ftreet hence becomes notorious by the name of Stangate ; whence we may conjedture that it was originally paved with ftone : a mile beyond Little Stukeley it turns fomewhat to the right, and then proceeds full north and fouth : near Stilton fome parts appear ftill paved with ftone; it paii'es through great woods between the two Saltrys, v/here was a reli¬ gious foundation of Simon Silvanedl 11 . earl of Huntingdon and North¬ ampton ; among whofe ruins lie buried Robert Brus, lord of Anandale in Scotland, and of Cleveland in England, with Ifabel his wife, from whom the Scottilh branch of our royal family is defcended. Near the road-fide Roman urns have been dug up. I thought it piety to turn half a mile out of the road, to vifit Conington, the feat of the noble Sir Robert Cotton, where Coning- he and the great Camden have often fat in council upon the antiquities of ton. Britain, and where he had a choice colledtion of Roman infcriptions, picked up from all parts of the kingdom. I was concerned to fee a ftateiy old houfe of hewn ftone large and handfome lie in difmal ruin, the deferted lares and the genius of the place fled; by it a moft beautiful church and tower j in the windows is fine painted glafs, but of what fort I know not: a poor cottage or two feem to be the whole town, once the poiTeffion of the kings of Scotland.^' From thofe woods aforementioned, ftanding on high ground, you fee all over the level of the fens, particularly that huge refervoir of water called Whitlefey-mere, full of fiflr, and a very pleafant place in fummer time, where the gentry have little vefi'els to fail in for diverflon ; upon this hill Sir Robert Cotton, digging the foundation of a houfe, found the fkeleton of a fifli twelve foot long. A little to the right lies Ramfey, famous for a rich abbey, where every monk lived like a gen-LAMsEv. tleman; there is little of it left now, but a part of the old gate-houfe. In the yard I faw the negledted ftatue of the famous Alwyn the founder, called XVII. alderman of all England, coufin to king Edgar : I take this to be one of the moft ancient pieces of Englilh fculpture which we know of; the injig?iia he has in his hand, the keys and ragged ftaff, relate to his office. Anno 1721 many pecks of Roman coins were found there. Probably from the name we may conjedlure it was a Roman town. Near it is Audrey caufeway : at the fouth end of it, in the parifh of Willingham, a camp of a circular form, large, called Belfar’s hills, thought that of William the Conqueror, or his general Belafis, when bufied in the redu6lion of the ifle of Ely, or Odo Baliftarius. A Roman pavement found at Ramfey. Stilton, or Stickleton, analogous to Stivecle^ is famous for cheefe, v/hich they fell at i2d. per pound, and would be thought equal to Parmefan, were it not too near us. Beyond here the road is perfect, v/ith a ridge upon the open fields, for a long v/ay together : it goes pretty near north and fouth about Stangate; but now it takes a turn to the left a little, to avoid the vaft fens full before our view. I cannot but take notice of the great ftones, fet at every mile from Grantham hither by Mr. Boulter, which he defigned to have carried on to London. Any thing that affifts or amufes travellers is Y moft * Sir Robert Cotton bouglit the whole room from Foderinghay caft’e, wherein Mary queen of Scots was beheaded, and fet it up here. Durobri- VIS. TAB. XIII. id Vol. 1 T E 11 V. mofl highly commendable ; hence the good underftanding of the ancients prompted them to fct their funeral monuments by the road fide, not crouded round their temples ; they knew the abfurdity of filiing the mind with ideas of melancholy, at fuch times as they approached the facred altars ; there nought but what is beautiful and great ought to appear, as moil befuiting the place where we feek the Deity. With them jMercury was the god of v/ays, and the cii/Ios manium. I have often wondered that the cheap and eafy method of fetting up polls with dirediions at every crofs road is lo little pradlifed ; v/hich methinks deferves to be enforced by a law : it would teach the carpenters that make them, and the country people, to read, with much more emolument to the public than fome other methods novr in vogue : of other ufes I need fay nothing. All the country between. Huntingdon river and Peterborough river is clay, fand, and gravel j but beyond that to the Humber is ftone. At Gunwath ferry over Peterborough river is a new bridge, where boats too pay a toll; fuch is the modern way of encouraging trade and navigation. The people of Peterborough are averfe to having their river made navigable, out of an abfurd notion that it will fpoil their trade. The imperial Itinerary makes 35 miles between the lad llation, Duro- chioitte^ and Durobrivis ;§ but a decimal too much is put into the number, for 25 is full enough : it is indeed 25 iTieafured miles from Pluntingdon river to the Nen at Cader ; there is no difpute butChefterton by Caller is the place. Dornford retains fomewhat of the old name, where the road traverfed the river by a bridge (of brafs, the common people fay.) At Chellerton on this fide is a large tradf of ground, called the Cadle field, Vv^ith a ditch and rampart around it the Roman road runs direclly through it, and dill retains its high ridge. I obferve every where near the fenny country great precau¬ tion and drength employed ; which feems owing to the incurfions of the Britons from that part, who, no doubt, retired into thefe fadnelfes as their lad refuge, when the Roman arms fhined all around them : and that reafon mud induce the Romans very early to think of draining the country, and rendering it provincial, which w^as the only means of preventing that inconvenience. The Hermen-ilreet beyond the river runs for fome fpace along the fide of it upon the meadow, then turns up with an angle, and proceeds full north. Cader-f- is above half a mile from it, upon the hill. I efpied a bit of the foundation of the wail of the Roman cajlrum in the dreet to the north-vvcd corner of the church, under the wall of the houfe w'here the minider lives : it is eafilv known by the vad drength of the mortar, built of the white dab-done of the country : this caftrum then went round the church-yard, and took in the whole top of the hill, facing the mid day fun. Underneath it lay the city ; for below the church-yard the ground is full of foundations and Mofaics: I faw a bit of a pavement in the cellar of the ale-houfe (the Boot.) —- varias ubi pi 51 a per artes Gaudet humus ^ juber ant que novis ajarota figuris. Stat. Silv. They ^ Durobrivis was at that Roman work by the river fide in Chefterton parifh. Allerton, liard bv, was anciently wrote Ahhvaltorii Jldwarkton. * The Cahle field was walled about: perhaps this was originally one of the forts upon the Jntona, built by y\. Plautius before the Roman road was made. t Caftre is called a royal manor, Ingulf, p. 497. It Icems likely to me that Kimbolton was the town where Boadicia lived ; K'tfeni pant, the Icenian valley; as Ihe was m king homewards, flie was met by the Romans at Ravenfden, or the Roman valley, where the battle was fought; and that they buried her at Reynold, where the circular antiquity is, by the road fide between Bedford and St. Neot’s. It lies near the meadow, and seems to be a Britifli place for celebration of fports. ITER V. 83 They know of many fuch : particularly at Mr. Wright’s, and in the land¬ lord’s garden, is an intire one untouched. Roman coins are found in great abundance : I have before me a long and particular catalogue of many I have feen of all times, from the confular to the later emperors, in brafs and filver, but think it a naufeous formality to print them: a few I will repeat of the filver. M. pohlic yJnt. III. vir Sabin Augujius divi jil. Cafar Augujius pater patria. Augujius Cafar Cafar Hadrian Cof. III. Iheodojus Silaiius — nils imp. leg. VI. /. titur. the rape of the Sabins. imp X adl. Augujli f. cos. dejgn. princ. jicvent. [exergue] CL Cajaris a comet, idus jun. 1 . juli 1 . f. a chariot drawn by cupids. /EgyptoSi a recumbent figure with the Jijirum. virtus romanorum tr. p. s. l.j. roma. Thefe among more are in the pofTelTion of Monfieur Baillardeau.§ In the ploughed fields between the town and the river, toward Ford-green, they are often found, with earthen pipes, bricks, and all forts of antiquities; in that field is a tradl running quite through, whereon corn grows very poorly, which is nothing but a ftreet or road laid with a deep bed of gravel: the vulgar have a foolifli ftory about it, as at other places, and fay that lady Kyneburg cuiFed it; by whom they mean the abbefs that built a religious houfe here, which flood eaftward of the church : fome part of it is fill left. This meadow is called Norman-gate held,, or more properly Dorman-gate, fome corrupted memorial of the ancient name of the town, which extended itfelf hither ; and foundations are found all about here, and innumerable coins, which they call Dorman pence: part of this is Berryfied, v/here antiquities are dug up every day. Higher up tov/ard Peterborough is Mill-held: Mofaic pavements are there dug up, and other things ; and feems to have been a little citadel belonging to the town. Part of the church is of an ancient fabric, but new modelled : there is a curious in- fcription upon a ilone over the choir door thus : (the letters are raifed.) XV^ KL* MAI. DEDICATIO HVP ECLE* A. D. M.° CXIIII. it is wrong tranfcribed in Camden. The fleeple ilands in the middle of the church,: the tower is a fine piece of ancient architcclurc with femi- circular arches; I judge the fpire of later date. The fquare well by the porch no doubt is Roman ; it is curbed with hewn frone : though it ilands on a hill, yet the water is very high : at the eaft end of the church is a very old crofs. Mr. Morton is very copious upon this fcation, in his curious hiflory of Northamptonfliire ; the inquifirivc reader will confult him : I only recite fuch things as I faw, and fear being tedious upon fuch places as admit of no doubt among antiquaries. A little higher up the river, near Wansford § Mr. Parker, fupervifor of excife, gave me a lilver Domtiian founcl at Caftor; reverfe DIANA, as ufuai. I faw a good brafs Galba found there. I have a filver Hadrian found at the true Durebrivis, Chefterton ; reverfe ccs. iii. Anno 173.' the people of Bernac dug up fome urns, with coins in them, near the Roman road pafnng through that parifii. Mr. Archdeacon Payn fiiowed me a brafs Magnentius : there . were many urns, coins, a brafs Jibula, tweezers, &;c. dug up. 1 fuppoie it was a family burying- place of the Roman villa at Walcot. Mr. Terry, Uffington. col!e 61 ;ci', gave me a good brafs Vefpa/ian^ reverfe AVGV5TI, found at 84 V/ansford bridge,§ a gold Britilli coin was found, in the polTeflion of Ml- Maurice Johnfon, J. C. Anno 1720, at Thorp, the feat of Sir Francis St. John, by Peterborough, a Mofaic pavement was found : this was un¬ doubtedly a villa of fome great Roman. In the garden here are fome fine antique llatues of marble, but fuffering more from the weather, in this moil! fituation, than from age : in the middle is a Livia of colofs propor¬ tion, the wife of Auguftus; in the four quarters are Diana, Amphion, an orator, a gladiator; upon the terrace, an admirable Hercules killing Hy¬ dra: in the court are two equeftrian figures in copper, Flenry JV. of France, and Don John of Auftria: within the houfe over moft of the doors are placed buits, Baliianus, Caracalla, &c. thefe antiquities were of the Arun¬ del colleftion. Hence 1 travelled upon the Pvoman road all the way to Stanford. As it rifes from the water-fide of Peterborough river, and paffes over the corn¬ fields, it appears in a lofty ridge called Norman-gate, i. e. Dorman-gate j only here and there they have dug great holes in it for its materials : it goes forwards to Lolliam bridges, by the name of Long-ditch, which we treated of before, being its oldeft and direfteft road, full north and fouth. In the reign of Nero all the fouthern part of the ifland was conquered, and the Brigantes were faft friends ; fo that in his time we may conclude the Hermen-fcreet was made as far as Sleford by Catus Decianus the pro¬ curator, as we fuggefted in the firft letter. But now our journey is by the left-hand new branch, and which goes out of the other with an angle in the parifli of Upton, called the Forty-foot way : almofi: at Southorp, it is inclofed in a pafture ; but beyond that you find it again, going by Walcot inclofures, then through Bernack fields, winding a little to the left hand till it enters Burleigh park : its true line from Walcot corner would pafs through Tolethorp wood, but the river below Stanford was too broad; lb it palies through Burleigh park, where its gravel is transferred to make walks in the gardens: at Wothorp park-wall it appears again with a very high ridge and agreeable fight, defcending the valley to Stanford river, which it paffes a little above the town between it and Tynwell; then rifes again upon the oppofite hill, entering Lincolnffire, with its broad and elated creft, till it goes to Brigcafterton : it is compofed all the way of ftone, gravel, and hard materials, got near at hand: the common road leaves it intirely from Peterborough river to Brigcafterton, crofting it at Wothrop park-wall.‘f* Brigcas- . Brigcafterton happened moft convenient for a ftation, being ten miles TERTON. from the laft, or Durobrivis; but the Itinerary mentions not its name; for o. town. diftances between them, and iikewife to Lincoln, impugn Mr. Camden TAB.XIV. and fuch as place Caufennis here: however, it was fenced about with a 2d vol. on two fides, the river fupplying its ufe on the other two; for it ftands in an angle, and the Romans made a little curve in the road here on purpofe to take it in, as it offered itfelf fo conveniently, then rebfified the obliquity on the other fide of the town : it confifts of one ftreet running through its length upon the road: this great ditch and banks are called the Dikes. I faw many coins that are found here; and one pafture is called Caftle-clofe at the corner: they fay the foundation of a wall was dug up there.'*' Hence § Wansford is Avontford. t Many Roman coins found at Wilsthorp, upon the old Hermen-fcrcet : it was a Roman Ration, being the fame diftance from Durobrivis on the old flieet, as Brigcafterton on the new. * I have feveral brafs coins, found in the fields by Ryhall, in the neighbourhood of Brig- cafierton j • y _ , _ _ _ ' ___ ^ ,/7Yy?zi, • -^zZt /i/72f 9t’ 77i2ii^ pyp -/o pipiuj^^ pxp 2^/x7.^^Txo4 ja^jBD Si.ig^y^ A > :.y V - f > 'i 1 , « * V . . ; . • --,:■ ■/ ■‘- ; , K * -■ . ' * • »• ' » 5 - *'' ir* .•/ 4.\r- oz I T E R V. 85 Hence the road goes by Stretton, then leaves a little on the left handCoLSTER- Cohlerworth, highly memorable for being the birth-place of that vaff genius Sir Ifaac Newton, the darling of Nature, who with a fagacity truly ^^3^ xx. wonderful has penetrated into the fecret methods of all her great opera¬ tions j of whom Lmcolnfhire may juftly boaft : and we may fay of him, with Lucretius, I. Ergo divida vis animi pervicit^ & extra Procejjit longe jiammantia nicenia mundi^ Atqiie omne immefifim peragravit mejtte ajiimoqiie .% On the north wall of the chancel is this monument. Heic jacent Guli- elmi V/alkeri particula obiit i aug. anno domini 1684. cetat. 61. Thirty leffer miles from Durobrivis you come to Paunton,§ which muft Causennis* needs be Caiifaviis : it is indeed twenty feven meafured miles, the Hermen- fcreet accompanying. This village is at prefent under the hill where the road goes near the fpring of the Witham, to which I fuppofe its name alludes, as the prefent to pant avon : both fignify the valley of the river in Britifn : perhaps the moft ancient name of the river was Cavata j whence that part of the country that is watered by it affumed the name of Kefi:evon,‘f' importing the river Cavata, Cavaut avon ; as Lindfey from Lindum : the prefent name Witham, or Guithavon^ fignifying the I'eparating river, as it principally divides thefe tvv^o. Many Roman coins are found here, and all the neighbourhood round, and Mofaic pavements, Roman bricks, urns and the like, of a curious compofition. Mr. Burton fpeaks of a mufive pave¬ ment. The Hermen-Rreet, now called High-dike road, goes along the heath, which preferves it from being worn aw'ay; and it is a fight highly enter- Z taining. cafterron ; particularly a large Nero, of Corinthian brafs ; reverfe, victoria avgvsti i another; reverfe, a victory s. c. diTrajan, of Corinthian brafs i reverfe, ceres, s. c. Max- hn'tan, reverfe, genio pop. ROM. Conjlaniiniis Au^. reverfe, principi juventut. exergue PEN. percuffa Londini Conflans Felix temp, repar. Nerva. Trajan\ reverfe, cos. iiil. P. ?. Claud Gothicus. Mr. Bcaupre Bell gave me a fair Sev. Pertinax, middle brafs, found in Tickencote lane. I faw a fiiver of Pompev, found in Caftreton field, 1733, the firft in fecond plato. of Palin’s famil. Rom. Fornpeia. I have a middle-fized brafs coin of Nero, found at Brigcaflerton, s p q^r ftamped on the neck. I faw a large Severus Pertinax, brafs, found there, Mr. Foden’s. Dec. 7, 17^1. Loid Ganefborough fhowed me a fair large brafs Divo Antoni?w, reverfe, the Antonine column, dug up in Exton church-yard, Pickworth church, to the right, was burnt down, together with the then populous town, bv the rebels in Henry the Seventh’s time ; and all now lies in ruins. At the fame time Horn- field and Hardwick deraolifhed. Pickworth ftceple, a very fine fpire, and feen all round the country, was taken down about A. D. 1728, to build a forry bridge at Wakerlev. i faw the lower part of the lleeple anno 1731, wlien it was pulled down to build a bridge by Caflerton. 'Ihere was a pretty church and an anc.ent one at Ingthorp, now turned into a dwelling-houfe, X Sir Ifaac was born at Wo'lsthorp, a hamlet of Colflerworth. Some part of the high dike remains iierfeiSt enough in the fields over-againfi: Colftervvorth. § A filver Trajan, found by the high dike in ditching near the Woodnolk in Little Paunton pariflt, was fent by Madam Eyre, of Eaftwell, to Lady O.xfoid. Many Roman corns found at Strawfton, in pofleffion of my neighbour Andrew Placket, cfq. and vaults dug up tliere : it is near Paunton. William de Vefei gave the cluirdi of Ancafter to the nuns at Walton ; to the knights Templars he gave the churches of Cathorp and Normanton ; to the canons of Sempringham, and nuns of OrniPoy, the hermitage at Spaldingholme, •f d'h.e name of Kejleven undoubtedly came from Caufennis ; but Brigcaflerton is really out o f that divifion : Paunton is in the midway of it. Many arched vaults under ground about Paunton Magna : in one of them fornc coiners lodged for fomc weeks. ITER V. Ancaster, tainlng. The next town it comes to is Ancafler what was its Roman O' name I know not; but it has been a vei'y Rrong city, intrenched and w^alled TAB. XV. about j as may be keen very plainly for the mod: part, and perceived by 2d Vol. thofe that are the lead: verfed in thefe fearches. The bowling-green behind the Red-lion inn is made in the ditch : when they were levelling it, they came to the old foundation. At this end of the town, w'here a dove-cote fiands, is Cadle clofe, full of foundations appearing every where above ground: the ditch and rampire encompafs it. Here are prodi¬ gious quantities of Roman coins found j many people in the town have traded in the fale of them thefe thirty years ; they are found too in great plenty upon all the hills round the town, efpecially fouthward, and toward Cadle-pits ; fo that one may well perfuade one’s felf, that glorious people fowed them in the earth like corn, as a certain harved: of their fame, and indubitable evidence of their prefence at this place. After a fhower of rain the fchool-boys and diepherds look for them on the declivities, and never return empty. I faw an Antoninus Pius, of bafe filver, found that morning I was there : likewife I faw many of Fauifina, Verus, Commodus, Gal¬ lienus, Salonina, Julia Msefa, Conftantius Chlorus, Helena, Maximiana Theodora, Conflantine the Great, Magnentius, Conflans, Tetricus, Vic- torinus, Scc.t The town confifls of one flreet running north and fouth along the road : there is a fpring at both ends of the town, and which, no doubt, was the reafon of their pitching it at this place; for no more water is met v/ith from hence to Lincoln. There is a road on the wed: fide of the town, v/hich was for the convenience of thofe that travelled when the gates were diut. On a flone laid upon the church wall I read this infcription, in large letters of lead melted into the cavities. P R I E Z : PUR L E : A L ME SIRE: JOHN C O L M A N CHI VALER In the church-yard are two prieds cut in flone. This has been a populous place; for here are great quarries about it, and the rock lies very little under the furface. Mr. Camden fpeaks of vaults found here; and W. Har- rifon, in his defcription of Britain, II. ly. mentions Mofaic pavements.j| The road feems to bend foraewhat in this part, which I conjedlure was with an intent to take in the fprings. A Mrs. Woodward gave me a (iher Jntcninus upon his confecration, found at Ancafter : fire fays, one morning lire was there, a labourer brought home a dozen Roman coins juft then found. t Roman coins are found at 7 ’iiiftleton, near Poft Witham, and at Market Overton ; two larp-e tumuli in a valley, near a divifton-dike, on that beautiful plain called Saltby heath. I faw a fine krzis Jlexander, Roman; reverfe, providentia, a Genius with a cornucopia and ear of corn. A mile off Stretton, between Stamford and Grantham, between Stretton and Market Over- ton, is a place called the Holmes, where they find vaft quantities of Roman coins. Mr. Par¬ ker, fupervifor, gave me feveral, of the low empire ; after a fliower of rain, on the ploughed ground, they find them plentifully. No doubt but this was a Roman town. I viewed it with Mr. Baron Clark, of Scotland, May 30, 1733 : it is a villa, or flrepherd’s town, upon a delightful plain : there is an old well, which is new fcoured, and the foundation of a wall that inclofed a kind of a court; it is near Thiftleton. Mr. M’illiam Annis gz\e me z. hrzis Attagnentius, found at Honington; reverfe felicitas REIPUELIC^. II A Roman Mofaic pavement found in the fields above Denton, February 1727-8, of which I feat an account to the Royal Society. F/r7fh€(:^ o/ Ancaller .yS^'^ q.o.j7'2 4-. 15 r£^ I T E R V. 87 A mile and half oft to the weft, in the parifii of Hunnington, upon a hill Huning- furveying a lovely profpect, both toward the fea-coaft, and hito Netting- hamfhire, is a fummer camp of the Romans, or a cajlrwn expkraloriim, of a fqaare form and doubly trenched, but of no great bulk ; the entrance feems to have been cn the eaft fide. Not long ago, in this place, have been dug up, in ploughing, bits of fpears, bridles and fwords, and two urns full of coins : I law a large brafs one of Agrippa, and Julia daughter to Auguftus, with many more, in poifeftion of the Rev. Mr. Garnon of North VVitham : his daughter gave me a fcore of them at Newark, Dec. 1728. Mr. Banks, 1735, digging for his new houfe at Ancafter, found much Roman antiquity. Ail the way from this road, upon Ancafter heath, we have a view of the fea, and the towering height of Bofton fteeple. A little further we com.e to a place, of no mean note among the country people, called Byard’s Leap, where the Newark road croffes the Roman : here is a crofs of ftene, and by it four little holes made in the ground : they tell filly ftories of a witch and a horfe making a prodigious leap, and that his feet refted in thefe holes, which I rather think the boundaries of four parilhes : perhaps I may be too fanciful in fuppofing this name a corruption of ^cialis lapis. I mentioned before, that here 1 apprehended the Roman road from the fen country pafled down the hill toward Crocolana. Upon our road there are many ftones placed j but moft feem modern, and like ftumps of crolfes, yet probably are mile-ftones : it would be of little ule to meafure the intervals; for one would find that the whole diftance between two towns was equally divided by fuch a number of paces as came neareft the total. Over-againlt Temple-Bruer is a crofs upon a ftone, cut through in the ftiape of that borne by the knights Templars, and 1 fuppofe a boundary of their demefnes: fome part of their old church is left, of a circular form as ufual. Bruer in this place fignifies a heath. The Hermen-ftreet hereabout is very bold and perfedl, made of ftone gathered all along from the fuperficial quarries, the holes remaining. I obferved, whenever it intercepts a valley of any con- fiderable breadth, whefe water muft necelfarily drain paft it, there is an interraifiion left in the road j for otherwife their w^ork would be vain : and the ends of the road are daunted off neatly for that purpofe, laying perhaps a fmall quantity of folid materials to vindicate the track, and not hinder the voidance of the rain : it goes perfectly ftrait from Ancafter to Lincoln full north, butting upon the weft fide of Lincoln town. A tumulus fome time upon the centre of it: it is notorious from hence that the intent of thefe roads was chiefly to m.ark out the way to fuch places in the march of their armies ; for there can be no need of a caufev/ay for travellers, the heath being fo perfectly good ; and that our Engliflr word highway is hence derived, and applied to public ways. When we come to the towns upon the cliff fide, they have ploughed up this barren ground on both fides the road, and bafely lowered it for miles together, by dragging the plough a-crofs it at every furrow; fo that every year levels it fome inches, and, was it not a public road, it would foon be quite obliterated. Here are fix villages on the left hand, at a mile diftance each, and a little off the road, which make an agreeable prcfpedl. Juft defeending Lincoln hill, I faw the true profile of the road broke off by the wearing away of the ground : it is about thirty foot broad, made of ftone piled up into an eafy convex¬ ity : there is likewife generally a little trench dug in the natural earth along both f des of the road, which is of great ufe in condudfing the w^ater that 88 'I’xVB. XXVIll. Lindum. 7'AB. LXXXVIII. I. ITER V. that falls from the heavens into the valiies upon the long fide of the road both ways, and prevents its lodging and ftagnating againfc the fide of their work: the turt that came out of thofe trenches they threw upon the road to cover it with grafs : thus had they all the curious and convenient ways for beauty, ufe, and perpetuity.§ Below the hill the Hermen-flreet meets with the Fofs, v/hich now united march directly up to the city, acrofs a great vale where the river Witham runs, by Mr. Baxter thought the ViBius of Ravennas : Mr. Leland calls it Lindis. As it defcends tow^ards Bofton, it is befieged, as it were, by reli¬ gious hoiifes, planted at every mile; fuch as Noftoii priory, founded by Robert D’arci, lord of the place, 1164. now the elegant feat of Sir William Eilys, hart. Kyme priory, founded by Philip and Simon de Kyme, knts. to which the Tailboyfes added, who married the heirefs ; Barlings abbey, founded by Ralph de Hay, and his brother Richard ; -Stanfield, the feat now of Sir John Tyrwhit, bait. Bardney abbey built by king Ethelred, who was buried here anno 712. much added by Remigius bifliop of Lincoln ; Tu- pholm, founded bvRob. de Novavilla j Stikefwold priory of the Benedidtine nuns ; Kirkfted abbey, by Hugh de Breton, whofe ichnography is difcover- able from its ruins ; Revefby abbey, by William de Romara. I think it not worth while, in a Roman journey, to dwell upon thefe places, and haffe up hill to Lincoln,-f* a great and moR famous city of theirs, graced v/ith the title and privilege of a colony; therefore called Lindum colo¬ nia ; a bold and noble fituation upon a high hill, which we may think no lefs than fvecities united into one ; of all which I fliall give a fliort account in their order, as to what I obferved, without tranfcribing fuch matters as the reader will find better delivered in authors. My bufmefs is to illuf- trate the 88th Plate, which I made by pacing as I walked about the city, intended to give the idea of the place as formed originally by the Romans, and of their roads leading to and from it. Below the hill, and weRward of the city, the river throws itfelf into a great pool, called Swan pool from the multitude of fwans upon it. All around this place the ground is moorv, and full of bogs and iRets, called now Carham, which means a dwelling upon the car, that is, the fen. Now here, wnthout queRion, was the Britifh city in the moR early times, where they drove their cattle backwards and foiwards, and retired themfelves into its inaccelTible fecurities ; and from thence I apprehend the name of caer, fignifying a fortification or inclofure in all the moR ancient languages, came in this country to be retained in thefe moraRes : this was its name as a dwelling, or a collection of native inhabitants; but the pool in their language Vv^as called Ihyn, and that deno¬ minated the Roman city Lindmn, being the hill hanging over thus pool. From this Carham you have a pleafant view of the weR front of tlie cathe¬ dral. The fhape of the pool is thought very much to refemble a map of England, when you furvey it from the top of the cathedral. The Romans, plealed with this notable eminence, placed their city upon it, which they hrR built in the form of a large fquare, the fouthern wall Randing upon the precipice or edge of the hill, and vranted no other external fence: quite round the other three fides they carried a deep trench too, which Rill remains, except on the fouth-eaR angle. This city was divided into four equal parts, by two crofs Rreets that cut it quite through upon the cardi¬ nal § I faw in peflemon of Mr. Terry of Lincoln, found at Ledenharn, a Corinthian brafs coin obliterated, with three holes bored in it. Over the parfon’s gate of Lcdenhain an inicription of the famous Jo’ n Dee, miniftei here. t Ninnius fays, Vortimer the Britifli prince was buried here. RELIGIO vs 2^ Remains ^/ 7 / Kiclbed AHjyZwt-, ijiS. ^//7/^ of Tupholm Ably Tie IcJinog'r apii Y of rle Monaller^ of Line ^ttrtc OAurc/l • /. r / k I SS- LINDVM Colonia,. 4 . 1^22 . SVccAor^ J^ovi' Jofeplio Jim ,AyaAu/am. D.D /W^ S tukeley. yhiAeAt^ deA: ;' • V’ . 'i 1 v/ ■ • ') ••i .r i" W ‘ 'V.'o' :' ,.• ••» "if? / WortK (rate ( a'^^nanWor/L Caniei'bury OcZ' J7 22,, A 3, jr zz, 89 ITER V. nal points; the two fonthern quarters were taken up, one by the caftle, the other by the church which Remigius built j but, when Alexander the bifliop projedled a ftrudlure of much larger dimenfions, they carried the facred inciofure beyond the eaftern bounds of the city, and fo built a new wall farther that way, as it is now, with battlements and towers. The north and fouth Roman gates of this part of the city remain ; the one intire, the other pulled down about fifteen years ago by Mr. Houghton ; the northern, called Newport gate, is the nobleft remnant of this fort in Britain, as far as ^ AE.LIV I know. Upon the firft fight of it I was ftruck with admiration, as well of its noble fimplicity, as that hitherto it diould not have been taken notice of: it is a vaft femicircle of ftones of very large dimenfions, and, by what 1 could perceive, laid without mortar, connefted only by their cuniform iliape. This - magnificent arch is fixteen foot diameter, the ftones four foot thick at bottom : from the injuries of time, but w^orfe of hands, it is fomewhat luxated, yet feeiTiS to have a joint in the middle, not a key-ftone : on both ftdes, towards the upper part, are laid horizontal ftones of great dimenfions, fome ten or twelve foot long, to take off the fide prefi’ure, very judicioufly adapted. This arch rifes from an impoft of large mould¬ ings, fome part of which, efpecially on the left-hand fide, are ftill dif- coverable: below on both ftdes was a poftern, or foot pafiage, made of like ftones ; but againft that on the left fide is a houfe built, and wdien I went down into the cellar I found a chimney let before it. The ground here in the ftreet has been very much raifed, and the top of the wail is of a later workmanfhip: it is indeed a moft venerable piece of antiquity, and w^hat a lover of architedlure would be hugely delighted withall. They tliat look upon a gate among the veftiges of the forum of Nerva at Rome, will think they fee the counterpart of this; but, of the two, this has the moft grandeur in afpedf : the drawing fupplies any further harangue about it. From this gate eaftw^ard, fome part of the old Roman wall is to be feen by a pafture, made of ftone and very ftrong mortar : thereabout too are fome arches under ground. The weft gate tow^ard the gallows was pulled down, not beyond memory: that on the fouth fide, w'hich I fpoke of, ftill fliows one jamb from between the houfes, and two or three ftones of the fame make as the former, juft above the fpringing of the arcli: if you go up ftairs in the adjoining houfe within the city, you may fee the poftern on the eaft fide, which is big enough for a bed to ftand in, I doubt not but there is, or was, another anfwerable on the other fide j but this ftreet is much con trailed from its original breadth by the fubfequent populoufnefs of the place; and the ground here, being upon the edge of the hill, is much worn down, as the ftrft is heaped up, from the con¬ dition of former ages. But by Newport gate before deferibed, is another large and curious remnant of Roman workmanftiip : tliis is called the Mint wall, and ftands in a garden in the north-weft quarter of the city ; it is ftill fixteen foot high, above forty foot long, and turned again with an angle : on the left-hand fide behind it are houfes built and marks of arches. What it was originally cannot now be affirmed j the compofttion of it is thus: upon fquared ftone of the common fort, but a little decayed tlirough age, is laid a triple courfe of Roman brick, which rifes one foot in height; the bricks feem to be a Roman foot long, and our feven inches broad : above this three courfes of ftone, which rife about a foot more; then three layers of brick, as before ; upon that twelve courfes of ftone, then brick and ftone to the top: the fcaffbld-holes are left all the way: the mortar is very hard, and full of little pebbles. A a But But' this city being happily feated for navigation of the river, and the chief thoroughfare to the north, foon increafed to that degree, that the Romans were obliged to add another to it as big as the former: this they did fcuthward upon the declivity of the hill, and fo tallied it to the other, that the new fide-v/alls anfwered in a parallel to the old, and the moll fouthern lay upon the river. Eaftward the ditch without is turned into a broad flreet called the Beaft-market, and there below ClaBigate a great part of the old Roman wail is left, made of Rones piled fideways, lirR with one diredlion, then with another, as was a common method with them: one piece of it is now eighty foot long, eighteen high ; a little bit of it lower down is twelve foot long, as much high : between that gate upwards and the old city-wall, by the GreeRone Rairs, is' the old ditch to be feen, much talked of, but not underRocd: it is called Weredyke. The people have a notion that the river came up here, and that tliefe Rairs were a landing-place from the water-fide, and denominated from 1 know not Vv^hat Grecian tra¬ ders : but this is utterly impoffible in nature. To the weR the ditch and foundation of the wall is Rill left, though many times repaired and demo- liflied in the frequent feges this town has fuRained, efpecially in the wars of Maud the emprefs : at the bottom of it, towards the water, is a round tower called Lucy tower, and famous in her liiRory. This then was the Rale of this place in Roman times : the Fofs and Hermen-Rreet entered the city at Stanbow, or the Roney arch ; there they parted : the Hermen-Rreet went directly up the hill, and fo full north through Newport; the Fofs, according to its natural diredlion, afcended it obliquely on the eaRern fide without the ancient city, and fo proceeded to the fea coaR north-eaR. But Rill here were two more great additions to the length of this city, and which Rretched it out to an enormous bulk; the RrR northwards above the hill: it is callcdNewport, or the new city, 500 paces long. This I appre¬ hend to have been done in the reign of the Saxon kings: it lies on both fides the Flermen-Rreet, and vv^as fencecf with a wall and ditch hewn out of the rock: at the two farther corners were round towers and a gate, the foundations of which remain : there were feveral churches and religious houfes in this place; and I fuppofe it was chiefly inhabited by Jews, who had fettled here in great numbers, and grown rich by trade : there is a well Rill called Grantham’s well, from a child they ludicroufly crucified and threw into that well. •f-After the Norman conqueR, when a great part of the firR city was turned into acaRle, I apprehend they added the laR intake fouthward in the angle of the Witham, and made a new cut, called SinfR dike, on the fouth and eaR fide, for its fecurity. The city then being of this huge compafs, gave occafion for that prophecy, as they call it, and fancy to have been ful¬ filled in the year 1666 : Lincoln uw, London A, and York Jljall be The faireji city of the three. It is obfervable that the Normans could not well pronounce Lincoln^ but called it Nichol, as vv^e find it in fome old writers ; and to this day a part of fwan pool is called ] 7 ichol pool: in fome places of Lincolnfhire the vulgar pronounce little^ nickk:, and fome other words of that fort. Though this place is much declined fince thofe times, yet of late it begins to flourifh again very confiderably. The rreaning of grecian Rairs I fuppofe bor¬ rowed from the Normans, importing only Rone Reps (grees) as they appear at t 7 'he caftle of Lincoln was made by the Saxon kings, repaired by William the Conqueror. ¥\ W:'c 'iri.:., ■ ..-. te-'i.. . ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ . ■ ■ *i' '- !, : -.v ; ',***.f-;J . . ' ^ ■K' sK' V -n . . }:1 ^ t ^ ' \ '■■■ ■V, '.n ■ ?f^v' ROMA'N INSCRIPTION S 6 ^- 2 , d D ^ G LERI VO" GALE RIA - M ^ G ^ F VICTOR LVGPVN I-SIQ^ LE G - E -Av"G^ 6’ T P -a: VR-^ AN N O R- XI ,Vf '7 ■, : '■■ Ji' -•,«kJ; •a ■ V I.C . ' -fs;- •■:A Hj/I ,-J .,i«‘/',-^..’V ..If’ .‘.‘y , . i'r F^Kf■ € , 95 I T E H V. rag-ftone quite through; the ftone is white, and rifes in ftrata^ thicker as deeper: the furface is heathy. The river Witham, which rifes on the weft of this ridge, muft have run into the Humber, had not Nature, by her propenfity of drawing it eaftward, as her declivities generally run, broke it off in the middle by that great valley under Lincoln, and made a pafiage for it into the eftuary. Hence it is that the ftone upon this weft- ern cliff is full of fea-fliells; for, when the great and univerfal deluge had carried thofe inhabitants of the ocean into the mediterranean parts, by the weight of their fliells they were unapt to retire again along with the waters, fo were intercepted againft this cliff, and received into the nafcent ftone.§ A remarkable antediluvian curiofity I procured for the repoftory of the Royal Society, from thefe parts ; being the real fkeleton of a crocodile, or feme fuch animal, inclofed in a broad fiat ftone. But now it is time to proceed. The Hermen-ftreet going northward from Lincoln is fcarce diminifhed, becaufe its materials are hard ftone, and the heath on both fides favours it: three miles off, near a watering-place, a branch divides from it with an obtufe angle to the left, which goes towards Yorkfhire. We fuppofe the Romans at firft had an erroneous idea of the ifland of Britain, and thought its northern parts in a more eafterly longitude than by experience they found; and thus in Ptolemy’s maps the length of Scotland is reprefented running out enor- moufly that- way : but when Agricola, in his conquefts northward, had difeovered that raiftake, and that the pafl'age over the Humber v>/as very incommodious for the march of foldiers, he ftruck out this new road, as another branch of the Hermen-ftreet, by way of Doncafter, from thence obferving its natural direction northward. When we turn ourfelves here, and look back to Lincoln, we fee the road butts upon the weftern fpires of the cathedral: and when from thence you furvey the road, it is an agreeable profpedf; your eye being in the middle line of its whole length to the horizon. I had a mind to purfue this branch through Lincolnfhire as far as the firft ftation, Agelocum : this ridge is likely to be of an eternal duration, as wholly out of all roads: it proceeds dire6fly over the heath, then defeends the cliff through the rich country at bottom, between two hedge-rows, by the name of Tilbridge lane. When you view it on the brink of the hill, it is as a vifto or avenue running through a wood or gar¬ den very ftrait, and pleafanter in profpe6i; than when you come to travel it; wanting a Roman legion to repair it. You pafs through Stretton and Gate-Burton, fo called from the road, and by a ferry crofs over the Trent, which lands you at Littleborough, Agelocum^ or, as by later times corrupted, with z fibilus^ into Agelocum. SegelQcum.'\ This is a fmall village three miles above Ganefborough, juft TAB. upon the edge of the water, and in an angle. Agel auk^ frons aqua, is a LXXXVIL pertinent etymology : it feems only to have been environed with a ditch, and of a fquare form, and the water ran quite round it; for to the weft, where White’s bridge is, a watery valley hems it in : fo that it was a place fufficiently ftrong. The church ftands upon the higheft ground. The Trent has waflied away part of the eaftern fide of the town. Foundations and pavements are vifible in the bank. Mr. Roger Gale, paffing by, once found an urn there, with a coin of Domitian’s : great numbers of coins have been taken up in ploughing and digging: they called them fwine-pennies, B b becaufe § All the fields about Allington, Fofston, &cc. are covered over with petrified flrells of a particular kind of oyfler ; they call them there crow-ftones. f So Sedetani, a people of Spain, in Silius are called Hedetani ; by Ptolemy, Segejia, a town in Sicily, Egejla, &c. I T E R V. becaufe thofe creatures fometimes root them up, and the inhabitants take little care to fave them. I faw a fev7 there: the reverend Mr. Ella, vicar, of Rampton hard by, has colledfed feveral, and fome valuable, fuch as the following, of which he fent me an account. A confecration piece of Vefpafian. Cof. IIII. IMP CAES NERVAE TRAIANO AVG GER DAC PMTRP COSVPP SPQR OPTIMO PRINCIPI. The mole at Ancona. IMP CJES NER TRAIANO OPTIMO AVG GER DAC 9, SENA- TVS POPVLVSQ_ROMANVS. Fortune fitting with 2, cornucopia in one hand, a rudder in the other, FORT RED SC. IMP CAES. &c. as the fecond. SPQR. a genius fitting on trophies, with a fpear in the left hand, a viBoriola in its right. IMP CAESAR TRAIANVS HADRIANVS PONT. MAX. TRR Britannia fitting with a fliield, a fpear in her left hand, a laurel in her right, the right foot upon a rock BRITANNIA SC. CONSTANTINVS AVG. SOLI INVICTO COMITI. Another, 9. ALEMANNIA DEVICTA. Several of thofe ftruck about Confcantius’s time with a galeate head on one fide, and URBS ROMA 9 > ^ wolf fuckling Romulus and Remus: others, CONSTANTINOPOLIS : many more, of Aurelius, Fauftina, Gallienus, Tetricus, Vidforinus, Caraufius, Conftantine, Conflantius, Crifpus, Al- ledlus, and the lower Empire. About forty years ago, when the inclofures between the town and bridge were ploughed up, abundance of thefe coins were found, many intaglias of agate, cornelian, the finefl: coral-coloured urns and patera’s, fome wrought in bajjo relievo^ the workman’s name gene¬ rally imprefied on the infide of the bottom : a difcus with an emperor’s head embofled. In 1718, they dug up two altars, handfomely moulded, which are fet as piers in a wall on the fide of the fleps that lead from the water-fide to the inn : on one is the remnant of an infcription, LIS ARAM DD. thefe are of the courfe grit-ftone. Many very little coins are found here,’ like flatted peafe 5 they call them mites. Mr. Hardy has a large urn with the face of a woman on the out-fide. In this fame field near White’s bridge are great foundations of building: coins are often found too at the lowelt edge of the water, when the tide is gone off, and in dry feafons. On the eaft fide of the river has been a camp. Returning by Tilbridge lane, upon the top of the heath is a fpring, which they fay flows and abates with the tide in the Trent, though five miles off: the like is reported of divers others hereabouts. From the place where the roads branch out, before fpoken of, I pro¬ ceeded on the Hermen-ftreet, northward, to Spittle on the ftreet. There are milliary ftones fet upon the road all the Vv^ay: it is very delightful riding, being wholly champaign, or heath. Of thefe Rones I believe fome are Roman, others later croffes, perhaps to fupply their place: fome tumuli fcattered here and there. This place no doubt was a manfion, becaufe a little beck runs through it, arifing hard by : and it is ten miles from Lincoln ; a convenient diftance. 1 took the bearing of the road juft north and fouth. Here is an hofpital, faid to be founded 1308, and great foundations all around, fome of v/hich are probably Roman. At prefent the village confifts of two farm-houfes, a chapel, an inn, and a fefiions-houfe: three or four tumuli near the town. Upon the chapel is a filly Latin infcription : jiii anno domini 1398^ non jui —- 1594C doni. dei ^ pauperwn Jiim —-1616) ^li hanc Deus hunc dejiruet. Upon l 6 ■ T/u Scitt of'tAe Iu? 77 iL 7 /i ton' 7 i at Wintniigham . 24. IU/1/J724 . Ab O N T RVS V. 95 IT E R Upon the feflions-houfe, Hcec domus odit^ amat, punita confervat^ bonorafy 'Equiti amy pacem y criminay juray bonos. 1620. Underneath, a coat pale of fix, on a bend three annulets, with the arms of Ulfter: over the door. Fiat juflitia 1619. All this whole country is a quarry juft beneath the furface. Beyond Spittle woodland begins: by Broughton, a vein of deep fand well planted with coneys. At all thcfe towns upon the Roman road, coins and antiquities are found j Hibberftow, Gainfthorp, Broughton, Roxby, &c. at Sandton has been a Roman pottery : between Scalby and Manton is a Roman camp : in Appleby is a place called Julian’s Bower: at Kirton, John of Gaunt had a feat: twenty-nine towns round about held of him in focage. I take Broughton to be another ftation, becaufe of its name, and that a brook runs through it j fo that the interval between Lincoln and Wintringham is conveniently divided into three parts, ten miles each, by Spittle and Broughton, the whole being thirty Roman miles. Thornholm, a mitred priory: there is but another in England, Spalding. Risby and Gokewell, two nunneries j fome fmall remains of both. To the left is Normanby, where the late duke of Buckingham was born, and whence his title. We kept the road all the way, though fometimes it pafies over little bogs, and at laft about Winterton is inclofed : it terminates in fome arable, where it is well nigh loft a mile fouth of Wintringham. Upon a rifing ground at the end of the Roman road, a little to the right, and half a mile Wm- eaft of the prefent Wintringham, ftood the old Roman town, of which have a perfeft knowledge, and ploughed up great foundations within me- mory: it is now a common, fkirted by the marflies upon the Humber: the Vol. foil hereabouts is clay. This fite of Old Wintringham, as called, was 'almoft inclofed with water in its firft condition, having only a flip of land towards the Roman road as an entrance : the valley weftward betw^een it and the town is now called the Old Haven, where three elm-trees ftand : the eaft is bounded by the mouth of the Ankham, which I fuppofe is a?ig in Britifh, broad, avouy river, from its broad marflies. The city was ploughed up fix years ago, and great numbers of antiquities found, now loft ; great pavements, chimney-ftones, &c. often breaking their ploughs: in feveral places they found ftreets made of fea-fand and gravel. Itisdipenwfula between the Humber and Ankham, and had moft opportunely a fine fpring on the eaft fide, which no doubt was embraced by the Romans: it is like- wife a great rarity in nature, arifing fo near the fea in a clayey marfh : there is ftone-work left round it, and an iron ladle to drink at, which is done frequently by travellers, as with a religious necefiity. Several intakes have been made beyond this city in memory of man, which drives the Humber farther off, and increafes the marfh : it is half a mile between it and old town. The old haven-mouth is called Flaflimire. This place is over- againft Brough, the Roman town on the Yorkihire fhore; but it is rather more eaftward : fo that with the tide coming in they ferried over very commodioully thither, and even now they are forced to take the tide. Buck-bean trefoil grows upon all the bogs hereabouts. The bearing of the end of the Roman way is precifely north and fouth, as at Lincoln ; fo that it is a true meridian line from the weft end of the cathedral. The prefent Wintringham is a dirty poor place, but ftill a corporation ; and the mayor is chofen only out of one ftreet, next the old town, where was a chapel : the bell of it now hangs in a wooden frame by the pillory, and makes a moft ridiculous appearance. Here is ftill a ferry from a fmall creek kept open 96 Aquis. TAB. XVII. 2d Vol. ITER V. open by fome frefnes ; it was ill judged of travellers to defert the old Roman way and ferry, and turn the road to Barton, (v/here the Humber is much broader and very dangerous) for no other reafon but becaufe it is fomewhat nearer and over-againft Hull: but the faving three miles riding does not compenfate for the time or hazard of fo uncouth a paflage. I am perfuaded the old name of this Ration was Abontrus^ the fame as the name of the river, whence they have formed the mimic Wintringham. Here is a vaft jaw-bone or rib of a whale, that has lain time out of mind, like that at St. James’s. Wintringham church Rands on the end of the LincolnRiire Aipes. Well may the Humber take its name from the noife it makes : my landlord, who is a failor, fays in a high wind it is incredibly great and terrible, like the crafli and dadiing together of Riips. The Roman way beyond the Humber at Brough is continued in Yorkfliire ; but of its pro- grefs that way I can fay nothing at prefent, this being the northern boun¬ dary of my expeditions. From the termination of the Hermen-fireet, juid by the knoll of old Wintringham, and the hedge on the fide of a common, a leffer vicinal branch of a Roman road goes diredfly weR to Aukborough, palling over Whitton brook. All the ground hereabouts terminates at the Humber in longitu¬ dinal ridges going north and fouth, and all Reep like a cliff to the weR, plain and level eaRward. Aukborough I vifited, becaufe I fufpedled it the Aquis of the Romans, in Ravennas, and I was not deceived j for I prefently defcried the Roman cajlrum.^ There are tv/o little tumuli upon the end of the road entering the town. The Roman caRle is fquare, three hundred foot each fide, the entrance north : the weR fide is objected to the Reep cliff hanging over the Trent, vRiich here falls into the Humber; for this caRle is very conveniently placed in the north-weR angle of LincolnRiire, as a watch-tower over all NottinghamRiire and YorkRiire, which it furveys. Hence you fee the Oufe coming from York, and downward the Humber mouth, and all over the iRe of Axholm. Much falt-marRi is gained from all thefe rivers, though now and then they reclaim and alter their courfe. Then they difcover the fubterraneous trees lodged here at the Deluge in great abundance, along the banks of all the three rivers : the wood is hard and black, and finks like a Rone. Here are likewife other plentiful reliques of the Deluge in the Rones, viz. fea-fhells of all forts, where a Artuofo might furnilh his cabinet: fometimes a Rone is full of one fort of fhell, fometim.es of another; fometimes, of little globules like the fpawn of RRies : 1 viewed them with great pleafure. I am told the camp is now called Countefs Clofe, and they fay a countefs of Warwick lived there; perhaps owned the eRate ;‘f' but there are no marks of building, nor I believe ever were. The 'vallum and ditch are very perfect: before the north entrance is a fquare plot called the Green, where I fuppofe the Roman foldiers lay pro cajlris : in it is a round work, formed into a labyrinth, which they call Julian’s Bower. The church is of good Rone, has a fquare tower, but the choir ruinous, excluded by a wooden partition : between it and the way to the marRies, a good fpring rifing out of the cliff. I dare fay no antiquary ever vifited this place lince the Romans left it; for the peo¬ ple wei e perfedliy ignorant of any matters v/e could inquire about; and as to Rnding coins, &c. they would make us no other anfwer than laughing at us: but * I faw a coin found here, brafs, of Claudius ; reverfe, a foldier with a fhield throwing the pile. t The countefs of Warwick, whofe maiden name was Wray, gave the manor to Mag¬ dalen college, Cambridge, Z Zr yj^?iauoc^y?z^'^ 97 ITER V. but I heard fince, from other good hands, that they have been found here in great numbers. Becaufe I have frequently found thefe places called 'Julians Bower, both at Roman towns and others, but efpecially very common in Lincolnfhire, I confidered what fhould be the meaning of them, and fhall here give my thoughts about it. They are generally upon open green places, by the fide of roads or rivers, upon meadows and the like near a town : the name often remains, though the place be altered and cultivated ; and the lovers of antiquity, efpecially of the inferior clafs, always fpeak of them with great pleafure, and as if there were fomething extraordinary in the thing, though they cannot tell what; very often they are called Troy town. What generally appears at prefent is no more than a circular work, made of banks of earth, in the falhion of a maze or labyrinth ; and the boys to this day divert themfelves with running in it one after another, which leads them by many windings quite through and back again. Upon a little refle6lion I concluded that this is the ancient Roman game j and it is admirable that both name and thing fhould have continued through fuch a diverfity of people ; though now it is well nigh peridied, fince the laid age has difcouraged the innocent and ufeful fports of the common people, by an injudicious and unnecelTary zeal for religion, which has drove them into worfe methods of amufement. I imagine too this was a practice of the ancient Britons, many of which were of Phrygian extraft, coming from the borders of Thrace; therefore derived it from the fame fountain as the Romans; this was upon their maii campi-, but I fhall not fpeak of them here: and the Turks, I apprehend, learnt it hence j for it is their diverlion too. As to the name bower, it fignifies not an arbor, or pleafant fliady retirement, in this place j \i\x\. borough, or any work made with ramparts of earth, as camps and the like: and it is my thoughts, many works, which have been taken for camps, were only made for this purpofe ; whereof two I met with in this journey, that at Alhwel, and Maiden Bower near Dunflable. The name of Julian undoubtedly refers to Julus the fon of Asneas, who firft brought it into Italy, as is admirably defcribed by Virgil in his V. Aineid. and kept up by the Romans with great pomp and annual feftivity : Auguftus was particularly fond of it, and took it as a compliment to his family. That they call thefe places 'Troy town, proves the fame. Hear the poet: Hunc morem hos curfus atque hac certamina primus Afcanius, longam muris cwn cingeret Albam Rettulit, & prifcos docuit celebrare Latinos. ^0 puer ipfe modo, fecum quo Troia pubes. Albani docuere fuos, hinc maxima porro Accepit Roma & patrium fervavit honorem: Trojaque nunc pueri Trojanum dicitur agmen. This game long fince, this martial exercife Afcanius brought, when Alba’s walls he rear’d. Whence the old Latins celebrate the fame. As he a lad, with him the Trojan youth. The Albans taught it theirs: from them great Rome Learnt it, and to their country’s honour call The game Troy town, the boys the Trojan band. I conceive this game was of two forts; that performed on foot; that on horfe-back, or in chariots: the intent of both was to exercife the youth C c in 98 I T E R V. in warlike aclivity, for it was a fort of mock fight; that on foot was the PyTrhic dance. Suetonius fays, lufiis ipfe quern vulgo Pyrrhicum appellajit Proja vocatur. If we carry it up to its firfi; original, we muft affirm it was invented by the Coiybantes-, Idei dadfyli, Curetes, whofe inftitution, when confirmed among the Romans, was continued by the priefts called Salii, dancing in armour, and clafhing their weapons together with fome fort of concert. Likewife the real foldiers had the fame feilival, which they called armiluflrium, celebrated on the 19. 06 lob. of which Varro gives us an account de lingua hat. Suetonius mentions it in Piberio, c. 72. This, whether performed on foot or horfe-back, by children, priefts or foldiers, was manifeftly the fame thing: their geftures, turnings, returnings, knots and figures, their afiaults, retreat, and the like, were aptly reprefented by mazes and labyrinths ; which very comparifon Virgil ufes. Ut quonda?n Cretd fertur labyrinthus in alta, Parjetibus textum cads iter, ancipitemque Mille viis habuife dolum, qua figna fequendi Palleret indepre?jfus & irremeabilis error. Such was in Crete the labyrinth of yore. In crooked tracks immur’d, a thoufand ways Doubtful and dark : whence the return obfcure, Inextricable, in endlefs mazes loft. It is likely thefe works of ours, made in the turf, were caft up, in order to teach the children the method of it. That on foot is elegantly defcribed by Claudian de VI. conful. Hoiiorii, v. 622. Armatos hic fape choros, certaque vagandi P<^xtas lege fugas, inconfufofque recurfus, Et pulchras errorum artes, jucundaque Martis Cernimus: injonuit cum verberefgna magifer, Mufatofque edunt pariter tot peBora motus. In latus allifis clypeis, aut rurfus in altum Vibratis, grave parma fonat mucronis acuti Murmure, ^ umbo 7 ium pulfu modulante refultans Ferreus alterno coficetitus clauditur enfe. Here have I feen the armed rings revolve In artful flights, in order then advance, x'lttack, retire in all the forms of war, Their eye ftill on the fignal of the chief j Then face about, ringing their brazen fliields Againft their corflets, or uplifted high Threaten the ecchoing Ikies ; whilft fteely blades Harfli murmur, and the clanging targets found Alternate ftruck, the martial concert clofe. The equeftrian games of this denomination required more room and appa¬ ratus for fpedlators; therefore probably they fenced in a larger fpace of ground, of a circular or oval form, with a vallum, to keep the fpedlators at proper diftance, and upon which they might more coramodioufly be¬ hold the fport. This I fuppofe was provided for by thofe bowers or bur¬ roughs mentioned, where there was no ditch behind ; for that would be dangerous, if the people crouding one another, as is natural on thofe occa- fions, fnould thruft the outermoft from fuch an elevation : fo that they were a 99 ITER V. a larger fort of amphitheatres, or circs: and this feems exprefly intimated by the great Mantuan in thofe verfes. Munera principio ante oculos circoque locantur In medio - £/ tuba commiJJ'os medio canit aggere ludos. Thefe games on horfeback he thus defcribes : Olli difcurrere pares, atque agmina terni Didudlis fohere choris, rurfufque vocati Convertere vias, infejiaqe tela tulere. Inde alios ineunt curfus aliofque recurfus Adverjis fpatiis, alternofque orbibus orbes Impediunt, pugnaque cient Jimulachra fub armis. Et nunc terga fuga nudant ; nunc [picula vertunt Infenfi, faSid pariter nunc pace feruntur. They ride by pairs : the martial cavalcade Triple battalions form, which open firfl: With adverfe front, and fliow of dreadful fight. Then new careers they take, wheeling about In various circles and felf-ending orbs. In all the mazy arts and forms of war ; Now turn their backs, and now afrefh attack : At length in peaceful order all march off. It feems that our tournaments, fo much in fafliion till queen Elizabeth’s time, are remainders of thefe warlike diverfions j and the triple order, by which they were conduced, may poflibly 5 e imitated in fome degree by the common figure in dancing, called the hedge, or the hay ; both which I fuppofe are derived from the Saxon hag, perhaps from the Latin agger. We paired by the fpring of old Wintringham and the Marfh at the mouth of the Ankham, which is a vafl: tradl of land left by the fea ; and came to Feriby fluice, a ftately bridge of three arches, with fluices for voidance of the water into the fea, but now broken down and lying in difmal ruins by the negligence of the undertakers: whence travellers are obliged to pafs the river in a paltry fhort boat, commanded by a little old deaf fellow with a long beard: into this boat you defcend, by the fteep of the river, through a deep mirey clay, full of ftones and flakes; nor is the afcent on the other fide any better, both dangerous and difficult. This, with the hideous ruins of the bridge, like the pidlure of hell gates in Milton, and the terrible roar of the water paffing through it, fitly reprefented Virgil’s defcription of Charon’s ferry: nor would a poet wifli for a better fcene to heighten his fancy, were he to paint out the horrors of the confines of hell. Him via Idartarei qua fert Acherontis ad undas. “Turbidus hic ccend vajlaque voragine gurges lEfiuat, atque omnem Cocyto erutlat arenam. Portitor has horrendus aquas & fumma fervat “Terribili fquallore Charon, cui plurima mento Canicies incidta jacet - iTn. vi. Hence the way leads to Fereby forlorn. Where Ankham’s oozy flood with hideous roar Tears up the fands and fluices ruin’d vaults. A fqualid Charon the dread ferry plies In leaky fcull, whofe furrow’d cheeks lie deep With hoary beard infconc’d—— When ICO Baruow. JBritilh ie triple. TAB. XVIII. 2d VoL ITER V. When we had mounted the precipice again from the water, and paid our uaul to the inexorable ferryman, we had feveral clayey lakes to ride over, unpallable in winter. Two roadsij; lead you to the town, a forry ragged place, whereupon the flocks is wrote, Fear God, honour the King. The church is fet refpedling no points of the compafs, and juft under the fide of a precipice, fo that you may almoft leap from it upon the fteeple; when we climbed the hill, it was a long while before we could find the way to Barton j and fcarce could the people direct us to it, though but two miles oft': at length, after wandering fome time backward and forward, we hit upon the road, and, as men efcaped the Stygian pool, with pleafure fur- veyed Barton, riding all the way through corn-fields, overlooking the Blumber and BIull. Barton from hence makes a pretty profpedf, having two churches, feveral mills, and the houfes pleafantly intermixed with trees. Ihis hillis wholly chalk, and anfwered on the oppofite fliore by another of the fame nature. This is at prefent the paffage acrofs the Blumber to Yorkfliire, and we pleafed ourfelves at this time only with the diftant view of it, and the neighbouring Hull: we could fee the flag upon the caftle. At Barrow v/e were furprifed with a caftle, as the inhabitants call it, upon the fait marfli: upon view of the works I wondered not that they fay it was made by Humber wdien he invaded Britain, in the time of the Trojan Brutus ; for it is wholly dilibnant from any thing I had feen before : but after fufficient examen I found it to be a temple of the old Britons, therefoie to be referred to another occafion. A little eaftward hence we viftted Thornton college, a great abbey founded by William le Gros earl of Albemarle 1139. the gate-houfe is very perfedl j a vaft tower, or caftle, wherein all methods of Gothic architedlure for offence and defence are employed: there is a great ditch before it, acrofs which a bridge Vv'ith walls on each hand, and arches that fupport a broad battlement to defend the accefs: before it two low round towers: this ftands oblique to the building, like the bridge at the tower-gate, the better to keep off aliailants by arrows fliot through many narrow loop-holes : there was a portcullis at the great gate, and behind it another gate of oak: there are no windows in front: over it are three old clumfy ftatues in as ordinary niches : a woman feeming a queen, or the virgin Mary ; to the right, a man with a lamb; I fuppofe, St. John baptill: to the left, a bifliop or abbot with a crofier: the lamb is introduced in feveral other places; in the battlements above the gate are the figures of nien cut in ftone, as looking down : on both fides this tower goes a ftrong wall embattled, fupported by internal arches, with towers at proper diftances; along the ditch within the gate are fpacious rooms and ftair-cafes of good ftone and rib-work arches. Upon taking down an old wall there, they found a man with a candleftick, table and book, who was fuppofed to have been immured. 'When you enter the fpacious court, a walk of trees conducts you to the ruins of the church: part of the fouth-eaft corner is left between the choir and tranfept, and behind that fome of the chapter- houl'e, which was octagonal: the Vv'hole plan of the church is eafily difco- verable, and round about it the foundations of a quadrangle, and lodgings, to the fouth of wliich now ftands a dwelling-houfe, which I fuppofe was the abbot’s lodge: here are great moats and filh-ponds, fubterraneous vaults and paffages ; the whole monaftery being encompaffed by a deep ditch and high rampart, to fecure the religious from robbers, becaufe near the fea. A mile ealt of Thornton are the ruins of another great caftle, called Keling- holme. X •Partes ubi fe via findit in ambas. ph • Ot 101 ITER V. holme. In Gofwel parifh northward is Burham, a chapel now become a farm-houfe, which belonged to the monaftery: in the fame parifh, near the Humber, is Vere court, which belonged to the ancient family of that name. Good land hereabouts, well wooded : they find Roman coins all about. Two miles weft of Thornton is a great Roman camp, called Yarborough, yarbo- which furveys the whole hundred denominated from it, and all the fea-coaft. rough. Vaft quantities of Roman coins have been found here : Mr. Howfon, of Kenington hard by, has pecks of them, many of Licinius. j| Hence we journeyed to Cafter, upon another ridge of the downs, run¬ ning north and fouth, flaunting off eaftward to the fea, and fteep all the way weftward, reaching from the Humber to the Witham below Lincoln : a vein of fand again, and alike flocked with rabbets, anfwering to that on the other fide the Ankham at Sandton, but a little more fouthward. From the hill juft above Cafter you have an admirable profpedl both caft and weft; this way to the mouth of the Humber, the Spurnhead promontory, the Sunk ifland, and the whole country of Holdernefs in Yorkftiire; that way, all the fea-coaft of Lincoln ftretched out in a long¬ bow, jutting into the fea, full of creeks and harbours: fouth and weft the whole county of Lincoln lies under the eye s but the height of Lincoln minfter particularly pleafes, which is here feen by the edge of the cliff fouth of Cafter, and prefents a very romantic landfcape. The town of Cafter is half way down this weftern fteep ; and in nothing Caster. more, that I have feen, did the Romans fhow their fine genius for choice of a ftation, than this: there is a narrow promontory juts forward to the weft, being a rock full of fprings, level at top; and on this did they build their ^ ° ‘ town. One may eafily guefs at the original Roman fcheme upon which it was founded, and now in the main preferved: this whole town takes in three fquares of full 300 feet each, two of which are allotted to the caftle, the third is an area lying to the eaft before it, between it and the hill, which is ftill the market-place: the ftreets are all fet upon thefe fquares, and at right angles: at each end are two outlets, going obliquely at the corners to the country round about, two above, two defcending the hill thus diftributed: the north-eaft to the Humber mouth, fouth-eaft to Louth, north-weft to Wintringham, fouth-weft to Lincoln. What is the meaning of this place being called ThojigcaJler^-f among fome others in England, I know not; one in Kent: but it gave occafion to the fame fanciful report of its original, as queen Dido’s founding Carthage upon as much ground as fhe could incompafs with an ox’s hide cut into thongs and a perfon in the town told me there was an hiftory of the building Cafter in Virgilt and offered to fhow it me. I fhould not have thought this worth mentioning, had not Mr. Camden fpoke of it, as if he believed it to be true : but there can be no doubt that this caftle was built long before Hengift’s time ; for I faw enough of the old Roman wall to evince its founders: one great piece ftands on the verge of the church-yard ; another by a houfe : there are more behind the fchool-houfe in the paftures, and I have met with many men that have dug at its foundations in feveral other places: it is built of white rag-ftone laid fometimes fideways, fometimes flat, in mortar exceedingly hard, full of pebbles and fand ^ nor is it mixed to any D d finenefs: II June 7. 1732, Mr. John Afli ihowcd me fome Roman coins found at Ludford by Market Raifui, where he fays they find very many : it is fourteen miles from Lincoln, and probably a Roman Ration upon the Fofsway going toward the fea: the coins were of ConRantius CU Gothicus, &c. t In Bede it is called Tunnaceajier-, from Tunna the owner, a Saxon, IIII. 22. :i 02 ITER ■ V. finenefs: fo that I conje6lure it was the method of the Romans to pour the mortar on liquid, as foon as the lime was flaked: thus the heat and moifture, ftruggling together, created a mofl: fltrict union or attraction be¬ tween the lime and itone, the motion favouring their approximation ; and the lime, no doubt, being made of the fame flione, promoted a more intimate union between the cement and the hard materials by fimilitude of parts. 1 fuppofe this narrow tongue of land was thus encompafled with a wall quite to the market-place, objedling only its end to the plain before the hill, the reft ftanding upon the ftoncy precipice. From under the TAB. XX. caftle-walls almoft quite round rife many quick fprings j but Syfer fpring 2d .\ol. - g moft famous, having now four fluxes of water from between the joints of great ftones laid flat like a wall; and joined together with lead, probably flrft by the Romans, for it is under their wail; fliaded over with trees very pleafantly : this is the morning and evening rendezvous of the fervant-maids, where confequently intelligence is given of all domeftic news: they fay, v/ithin memory it ran much quicker, fo that the water projecled three or four foot from the wall; others fay, that originally it ran in one ftream like the flieet of a cafcade. Syfer fpring, no doubt, is the Saxon fyfer, pure, clean, as the ftream here deferves to be called. There is a place by the fold, fouth-weft of the church, ftill called Caftle-hill, where many bodies have been dug up. I am inclinable to think the meaning of T"ho72g-caJik to be fetched from ‘Thane Degen, Saxonice, ?niles, prcefettus, analogous to the Latin comes.* Here it is likely our Saxon anceftors placed a garrifon of troops to fecure this country, as they conquered from the Roman Britons. In the church is a monumental eagles, in ftone, of a knight of the name of Hundon ; another, of a lady j another, of a knight of St. John of Jerufa- lem, crofs-legged. In Snarford church fome fine monuments, in alabafter, of the family of St. Paul’s. Return we now to Lindum. Sol medium cceli confcenderat igneus orhem Cmui muros arcemque procul Sd rara domorum Tecta vides, modo qua Romana potentia coelo Mquavit - Virg. M. viii. A mile north upon the Fofs is a tumulus of hard ftone, called the Caftle. From hence I determined to proceed to London all the way on the Roman road, which perhaps has not been fo fcrupuloufly travelled upon for this thoufand years: the intent, which I executed, was to perform the whole fixth journey in Antoninus his Itinerary j of which I fliall give as complete an account as can be expedled, confidering how totally rnoft of the ftations here are erafed, and that I was refolved fo far to imitate an ancient travellei', as to dine and lie at a Roman town all the way if pofli- ble, and fometimes in danger of faring as meanly as a Roman foldier: nor could I always readily fay. Longum iter hie nobis minuit mutatio crebra, Manfio fub noBem claudit ubique diem. Add to this, that the whole was new to me; that I had almoft every place to find out; that I was alone, and had no other guide than what Mr. Gale has pointed out to us, who is the firft that hit upon the true notion of this road: and I doubt not but the reader’s candour will overlook the errors or imperfeflions of this fimple narration, of what I could obferve myfelf, and Tlie Thane was a caunt, or miniiler of the king. Tong caftle, in Shropftiire, upon the head of the Severn, Sprmg atC^a/tci' ni^z/icaZ/y/i^- ' 26 " J7z^.(c7 7^af7ia7z .) (STxiA^Zey E.K^i 7ui-// y,. L 1'^ H Wo !^0 , ^ AJ ^ y ^1“ O rsi 5=1 t ^ ' 5 ^ 103 ITER V. and fifh out from the uncouth relations of the country people, who, for one half of the way, had never heard of enquiries of this fort fince any me¬ mory, and were too apt to be morofe upon that occafion, thinking I had fomedefign upon their farms in my inquifitivenefs. This journey proceeds from Lincoln upon the great Fofs road, as it Fop rozL tends to the Bath quite through Nottinghamfliire and LeicefteiTnire (but moft terribly defaced) till it m.eets with and crolTes (having gone fixty miles) the great Watling-ftreet coming from Chefter, and going to Dover, at High-crofs in Warwickfnire : hence to London, about ninety miles more, I went upon this Watling-ftreet, which completes that journey of the Itinerary. I apprehend the Fofs is the name tranfmitted through the Britifli, which comes from diggings as being an artificial road; whence they are often called dikes^ a word of contrary fignifications, as the Latin altus.% De¬ fending fouthwards, vrhere the Fofs parts with the Hermen-ftreet below Lincoln, by the abbey without the moft fouthern gate, and paffing over the river Witham by Bracebridge, before it comes to Lincoln; I foon per¬ ceived myfelf upon the Fofs road, by its ftrait ridge carried over the bar¬ ren moory ground, by a mill near Stickham. Hard by lies a ftone crofs of good height, of one piece, vulgarly called Robin Hood’s Whetftone upon the Fofs, and is called fometimes the three-mile ftone. The elevation of the road is ftill preferved, the common road going round about: it is much overgrown with gofs, and the moor but thinly fo ; its ftrait length eafily diftinguifhable for that reafon : it butts a good deal to the eaft of Lincoln Between Bracebridge and its union with the Hermen way, fome pavement is left of flag-ftone fet edgewife: the road beyond the moor goes through the inclofures of Hikeham and Thorp, then enters Morton lane, very plea- fantly fet on both Tides with woods full of game.-f- And fo journeying to the fpace of about twelve Roman miles, I found Collingham on my right hand: there is a high barrow or tumulus called Potters hill, where tliey fay was a Roman pottery: it ftands upon an eminence commanding a profpe6l both ways upon the road. Half a mile farther is Brough, the undoubted Crocolaua of the Romans: it is three miles North of Newark. Great plenty of wild Saffron grows hereabouts ; whence I once thought the name came, Croco la- fignifying the faffron field, from the Celtic word, a field or inclofure (lhan.) In the later times of the empire, when they fliortened words, it was called TAB. XXL Cola7ia ; and fome critic reftoring Croco to it, doubled the fecond fyllable ; ° " whence it is found in Antoninus his Itinerary, Crococolamm : but 1 judge Mr. Baxter’s derivation of it is right, ericehm pulchrum : the ground is very v/oody and pleafant, and full of gofs or heath, in Welfti grug. From Co- lanu:, Collinghams, two miles off, probably had their name,'^ fpringing up* from its ruins, as well as New'ark, the Saxons approaching nearer the water fide; the Trent and the Fofs road being negledted, which fupported the Romian town by travellers chiefly. Collinghams ftand upon a mere or rivulet, abounding with fprings called the Fleet, running into the Trent. The lands at Collingham belong to Peterborough church ; probably the gift of fome king :jj they have a report, that one arcli of South Collingham church § Near Stanford, in old writings, the Hermen Rreet is fometimes called the Fofs. t VideOgilby’s Survey, p. 207. * Godfrid abbot of Peterborough built a new roof and chapel at Colingham, which cod: him 57I. 15s. id, fays Walter Whittiefey, p. 162. this was about 1316. Julv 10, 1729, the reverend Mr. Welby of Scaleford gave me a coin or two, Roman, found near the Fofs at Croco- lana ; one remarkably corroded, feemingly of Corinthian brafs. II Turketil Hoche gave it, fays Hugo Candidus. 1 faw two Roman coins found at Crocolana, 28, Apr. 1728. There is a long old wall. 104 Newark. ITER V. church came from Brough, which is probably true of the whole: they fay Collingham v/as a market-town before Newark; and that Brough was a famous place in time of the Danes, who dehroyed it in Edmund Ironfide’s days. Danethorp is hard by, the feat lately of lady Grey. At Brough no Roman token vifible, but the remarkable ftraitnefs of all the roads and by-lanes thereabouts: the city has been mofl perfeftly levelled by the plough, fo that the mark of ridge and furrow remains in the very road : the hedge-rows were planted hnce. Were it not for many diftinguifh- ing tokens, one may be apt to conclude as Florus did, laborat annalium Jides ut Veios juijje credamus. They fay here was a church upon a place . called chapel-yard, and a font was once taken up there. The old landlady at the little ale-houfe, which is the only houfe there, till Thomas Cope’s and another were lately built, fays, that where her fire-place is, the crofs once floodj and that the whole is fairy ground, and very lucky to live on. There have been many Roman coins dug up here, and ail the way between it and Newark:* I bought a large brafs Fauflina junior., lately found in the corn-field over-againfl the ale-houfe : in digging too they find great foun¬ dations, for half a mile together, on each fide the road, with much rufly iron, iron ore and iron cinders; fo that it is probable here was an eminent Roman forge. Acrofs the road was a vaft foundation of a wall, and part ftill remains: out of one hole they fhowed me, has been dug up ten or fifteen load of flone; fo that it fhould feem to have been a gate: the flones at the foundation are obferved to be placed edgewife, and very large ones, but not of a good fort : this was the method the Romans juftly thought moft con¬ venient, in this fpringy foil; for the fprings rife here, all about, within two foot of the furface. They told me fome very large copper Roman coins have been found here, and filver too, and many pots, urns, bricks, &c. they call the money Brough pennies. The earl of Stanford is lord of the manor, and all is copy-hold, probably originally in the crown. The country people have a notion that the Fofs road is the oldefi: in England, and that it was made by William the Conqueror. This is all that I could learn of this city, which I thought no contemptible gleaning from the fliipwreck of time; for jfam feges cjl ubi Troja fuit - is true of all the ftations of this whole journey, more or lefs; and I was glad when any part of the harvefl might be applied to the gathering of antiqui¬ ties. From hence the road goes extremely flrait to Newark between hedge¬ rows, having the fteeple before us as a viflo ; but, much to their difgrace, it is in very ill repair j nay, in fome places they dig the very flone and gravel out of it to mend their flreets. Newark was certainly raifed from the neighbouring Roman cities, and has been walled about with their remains: the northern and eaflern gate, flill left, are compofed of flones feemingly of a Roman cut; and not improbably the Romans themfelves had a town here; for many antiquities are found round about it,-]' efpecially by the Fofs fide, which runs quite through the town. My friend the reverend Mr. Warburton, of this place, gave me a coin '* April 2S, 1728, I favv at Newark two Roman coins, lately found at Brough : they fay there is a long old wall there. t Mr. T’wells of Newark fent me four Roman coins dug up in the fields bv Newark; a Magnentius, pietty fair; reverfe, P. Antoninus Pius ; two large Trajans, but defaced. 1 guefs Newark was built in the later Roman times, for its commodioufnefs upon the Trent, and exhaufled the neighbouring Brough : both being deftroyed by the plundering Danes, per¬ haps were repaired in after-ages, and called Newark. My ■ '_ __ ■ :up 7 ^cr^ 'Py; /vr/muTij^ v -p q y.io.v y/p ■ 90 77^J 'I/O y/nop 'p^'^OZ/P772Z/l^ 7^' Z/O'^Z^Z lU2>:f P^ ^ 7;z:777^3./p- f. J05 ITER V. coin or two dug up here j and likewife this further information, that lately a gentleman (Mr. Holden) digging to plant fome trees by the Fofs road fide, difcovered four urns lying in a ftrait line, and at equal diftances : they were foon broke in pieces by the workmen, imagining to find treafure therein: in one there was only a rude piece of brafs, about the bulk of a fmall walnut, half melted down, with a bit of bone and fome of the aflies flicking in the furface thereof, amidft the other burnt bones and afhes: he conjectured that it was a fibula belonging to the habit of the dead: there were fquare earthen beads in others, which feem to be Britifii: in another was a fmall brafs lar about an inch and half long, but much confumed by rufl:: he told me likewife a pot of Roman money was found at Carlton-fcrope near them. There are two fine ftone erodes at Newark : the market-place is a fpacious fquare: the church is very large and handfome, with a very high fteeple.-f- From Newark the Fofs pafles by Qi^een’s Sconce, one of the great forts ereCled in the civil wars, and fo along the Trent fide by Stoke, famous for a battle, and an inn called the Red inn. We arrived, at about fix miles diftance fouth of Newark, to the Ration of the Romans called Ad pontem, Eaft Bridgford lies near a mile to the right upon the river Trent : doubtiefs TAB.XC. there was the bridge over the river, which created the denomination, in the Roman times, as being the paffage from the eaftern parts to thole beyond the Trent: and as to this particular Ration upon the road, perhaps a bridge was the fign of the inn, that travellers might know where to turn out for that purpofe, for I cannot fuppofe here was a bridge at the road. At Bridgford they told us there were formerly great buildings and cellars on the right as you defeend to the Trent, and a quay upon the river for veRels to unlade at.* The Roman Ration upon the Fofs I found to be called Boroughfield, weR of the road : here a fpring arifes under the hedge, called Oldwork fpring, very quick, running over a fine gravel j the only one here¬ abouts that falls eaRward,. not direClly into the neighbouring Trent, towards Newton. Hereabouts I fav/ the Roman foundations of walls, and floors of houfes, compofed after the manner before fpoken, of Rones fet edgewife iri clay, and liquid mortar run upon them : there are likewife fhort oaken poRs or piles at proper intervals, fome whereof I pulled up with my own hands. Dr. Batteley tells us of oak very firm, found at Reculver, under the Roman ciRems : the earth all around looks very black: they told us that frequently the Rones were laid upon a bed of peafe-Rraw and rufh-rope or twiRed hay, which remained very perfeCf. Houfes Rood all along upon the Fofs, whofe foundations have been dug up, and carried to the neighbouring villages. They told us too of a moR famous pave¬ ment near the Fofs^ way : clofe by, in a paRure, CaRle-hill clofe, has been a great building, which they fay was carried all to Newark. John Green E e of . /■ My coutln, Edmund Dickenfon efq. gave me a large brafs Verus found in Newark fields, J729, obliterated ; an Hadrian found there. OcSt. 7. 1731, I fatisfied myfelf that this was the long-fought-for epifcopal fee called Sidna- iejier. I faw a gold Gratian, reverfe, victoria aug. g. found atThoroton ; in my brother Collins’s poflefilon. The rev. Mr. Guy, of Long Benington, fays they find Roman coins in the fields thereabouts. t Newark caftle built by Alexander bifiiop of Lincoln. * April 17, 1730, I heard, in the neighbourhood, of Roman pavements dug up there, and coins. Burton, in his Leicejierjhire^ fpeaks of antiquities found here. Upon the Fois-way hereabouts was found a large and fine medallion of Corinthian brafs inclofed with wax: among other coins, the head of the emperor M. antoninus aug. trp. XXVII. reverfe, the head of his fon commodus Cj^:s. germ, antonini aug. germ fil. it is of that kind of medals called centorr.iati. I think it was found in an urn, with a coin or two more. io6 I T E K V. of Bridgeford, aged 8o, told me that he has taken up large foundations there, much ancient coin, and fmall earthen pipes for water: his father, aged near loo, took up many pipes fourfcore yards off the caftle, and much fine free-ftone : fome well cut and carved : there have been found many urns, pots, and Roman bricks; but the people preferved none of them ; and fome that had coins would by no means let us fee them, for fear we were come from the lord of the manor. About a mile farther is a tumulus upon an eminence of the road beyond Bingham lane, a fine profpedl; to Belvoir caftle, Nottingham, the Trent, &c. whence I took a fmall fketch of the road we had palled, regretting the oblivion of fo many famous antiquities. In my journey forwards, upon the declenfion of a ftiff clayey hill, near the lodge upon the wolds, an inn under a great wood. The pavement upon the road is very manifeft, of great blue flag-ftones laid edgewife very care¬ fully : the quarries whence they took them are by the fide of the hill : this pavement is a hundred foot broad, or more; but all the way thence it has been intirely paved with red flints, feemingly brought from the fea-coafts : thefe are laid, with the fmootheft face upwards, upon a bed of gravel over the clayey marl, which reaches beyond Margidunum ; that we may well fay, O quanta pariter manus laborant / ‘ Hi cadunt nemus ^ exuunt que motites. Hi ferro fcopulos trabefque cadunt y Scc. 1 StatI' Svlv. iv. This pavement is very broad, and vifible where not covered with dirt, and efpecially in the frequent breaches thereof. They preferve a report ftill, that it was thus paved all the way from Newark to Leicefter, and that the Fofs way v/ent through Leicefter fhambles: the yard of the lodge in the wold is paved with thefe fame ftones plundered from the road, June 15, 1728, Mr. L. Hurft, of Grantham, told me he faw at Mr. Gafcoign’s, a goldfmith in Newark, a large gold ring weighing 42 s. lately brought him by a countryman, which he found upon theFofs-way. There'was a feal upon the gold i a fox (he thought) engraved under a tree. Afterward I bouglit the feal: it is a wolf under a tree. Perhaps Norman. AD PONTEM. Margidv- Willughby brook is the next water. When arrived oyer-againft Wil- NVM, lughby on the wold on the right. Upper and Nether Broughton on the left, TAB.XCI. you find a tumulus on Willughby fide of the road, famous among the country people: it is called Crofs hill: upon this they have an anniverfary feftival: the road parts the two lordftiips ; but the name of Broughton fet me to work , to find the Roman tovs^n, among the people, getting in harveft. After fome time I perceived I was upon the fpot, being a field, called Henings, by which I fuppofe is meant the ancient meadows this is upon the brow of the hill overlooking Willughby brook, rlftng in'Dalby lofdfhip, and playing in pretty meanders along a valley between corn-fields, with a moderate water unlefs raifed by rains. Here they faid had been an old city, called Long Billlngton : it is often called the Black field in common dif- courfe, from the colour and exceftive richnefs of the foil, fo that they never lay any manure upon it. Here is a place called Thieves, and on the other fide of the valley a place called Wells, near where now a barn ftands : and all this length they fay the city reached, and that there was a church on the top of Wells; but the city was moftly on Willughby fide; for the land on the other fide in Broughton lordfhip is poor, whilft this is luxuriant to the laft degree ^ fo that a farmer once happening to fet his flieep-fold here. TroipecV o£ ^daj^'idunum from IVells Ljll ^ am z/ponYois 8 . jp 2 2 . jP/i/iazpi J)zz2z Xv/a/zAv/a. vT' n ■A,.- ’v A i :l •> t ■ ■ f. T • 4 i ^ .. f'^r«SS. ••• :-;i V •' •,»j.>\: .-•. AVvV... ,; • V( ’.■->• ^ r ‘V ■ \ it' ■' ^ 4 '^'^ vy A.'- ■<.r;r a . /Sa’ ' I ^^_ ■f . '-^.' i i } ■V >■- < r;- } >K'\V -,. v.M ■ ■>- 4 ®' ; ■; uy- i K-l ,.yt.. .V. > . V- ■' m'' {O'. k- ^ « * \,S s- - ' ■f ■ ■ . '* ; •y. .■ • . t Vi ' 4 CROSSES S^ G^utA/OjCj’ Crq/s i^on, l/ie. 6anA. ^etH>een. C'row- /an<^ SC. ifpa/cUr^, ^ near ^eaAtlC-Ltnc T/i£ T^ee{e/iaC£^x Crq/j', JlaJenAam. CamSr^ Jvy Crt^ 6 jp HcrruutJ' SoaiA^ in, iSictto ru S^ ^cLfnea JPevj/h, J^cr{ 6 zncC L izie. + LVCeM*TVA DjC'Devs-eT Reoyie ^Meisr. 'fJCll vRet SRY 61 ^ 7 /'^ roq: kai J-otifid at S^. Ill ITER V. Cloudbury-hill, two thorn-bulhes upon a tumulus on the Fofs, fuppofecl the fepulchre of one Claudius. The city probably was of a fquare form, humouring the crofllng of the roads, and had confequently four ftreets and four quarters. Many foundations are dug up along all the roads. It commands a charming profpedt to Ratce, Vernofnetum-, Coventry, &c. and quite round. You go through a gate by the crofs to regain the Fofs : at the length of a pafture it meets the true old road. Being now got upon the Watling-ftreet, I made this remark of it, that it is the direft road to Rome; for take a ruler, and lay it in a map of Europe from Chefter through London and Dover, and it makes a ftrait line with Rome : fo the great founders had this fatistadfion when they travelled upon it, that they were ever going upon the line that led to the imperial Capitol. Our antiquarians are much at a lols, after torturing of words and languages, to find out the reafon of the name of this ffreet, which is fo notorious, that many other by-roads of the Romans, in different parts of the kingdom, have taken the fame, and it became almoft the common ap¬ pellative of fuch roads. My judgment of it is this : it is natural to denomi¬ nate great roads from the places they tend to, as the Icening-ffreet from the Iceni: the Akeman-ftreet is faid to come from Akemancefter: in Wilt- fhire, and other places, the way to Exeter they call the Exeter road, though a hundred mile off; fo the London road is every where inquired for as the mold remarkable place: thus Watling-ftreet, tending diredtly to Ireland, no doubt was called the Irifh road, that is the Gatbeiia?i road, Gathelin-ftreet j whence our prefent word Wales from Gauls^ ^.varden from guardian^ &c. Scoti qui & Gaidelii fays ogygia extera. Whether there be any thing in the ifory of Gathelus, as founder of the Irifli, I do not concern myfeif at prefent; but their language is called Gaothela : fo Mr. Camden fays the true genuine Scots own not that name, but call themfelves gaoitheU gaiothlac, as coming from Ireland ; and that they glory in this name : and there is no difpute but this is the ancient appellative of the Irifli,which the learned Mr. Edward Lluyd has turned into Gwydbelians: and this name, which has fuperfeded that which the Romans gave it, (whatever it was) feeras to fhow there was fuch a road in the ancient times of the Britons, as the track of the trade between Ireland and the continent; yet it muft be owned nought but Roman hands reduced it to the prefent form. Hence-forward we turn our courfe upon the Gathelin-ftreet direftly for London along with the Itinerary. The road is now altogether between hedge-rov/s, very clayey and bad, full of lakes and mires, through the intolerable negligence of the inhabitants : here and there they have ftupidly mended it, by making a ditch in the middle of the road to raife a bank of earth ; for which they ought rather to be punilhed than commended. I turned out of the road to the weft, through fome inclofures, to fee Cefter-over, induced by the name. I found a houfe in a little fquare deeply intrenched upon the fide of a hill, but the earth rather thrown outward than inward as a vallum^ and the level within much lower than the field around it. I perceived it was a religious houfe ; fome part of the building left j and without the ditch a fine chapel, built of brick with good ftone coins and mullioned windows, converted into a barn : and a-crofs a valley hard by I faw dams, or ftanks, for fifh-ponds. The people within could give me no manner of intelligence, having but lately come thither. I fancied it to have been a nunnery, and that it was called Sifter-over^ to diftinguiih it from other neighbouring towns; as Church-over^ Browns-over., but afterwards t Clncl/quit, natio Guidelia, the Irilh nation : fo they now call themfelves. 112 ITER V. Tripon TIUM. TAB. XCiT. afterwards I learnt from other hands that there is a clofe called Old-town, where they dig up foundations, being very rich land (faid to have been a city) lord Brook polfefibr. Thence paffing a rivulet, from Bensford bridge^ I came to Tripontiumy placed in a fweet little valley, but the fides pretty fteep: the road on the oppofite hill looks perfedtly like a perfpeftive fcene at the play-houfe. This is the next Roman ftation, which is rightly placed at Dovebridge upon the Avon, running by Rugby to Warwick. The ftream here divides into two, with a bridge over each: upon one a ftone infcription, very laconic, Blowing the three counties that repair it. The firft fyllable of T^ripontium has relation to the old Britilh word /rc, a town or fortification: the remainder is generally thought to fignify abridge; but it is not to be imagined the Romans would make a bridge over this rill, or one fo eminently large t Near Bensford bridge and Lutterwortli, a vaft quantitv of fdver Roman coins found anno 1725, now in poffeffion of Mr. Walter Reynolds, Reward to lord Denbygh of Lutterworth. I Law many of Trajan, Hadrian, Nerva, Vefpalian, two large brafs Trajans. Feb. 9. 1726, I faw the following in River. Vefpafianus Aug. Vefp. Aug. imp. Crefar Imp. Ctef. Vefp. Aug. Cen. Vefpafianus Crefar Imp. Csef. Ner. Trajan optm. Aug. Ger. See. Imp. Caef. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. Imp. Csef. Nerva Trajan Aug. Germ. Imp. Csef. Trajan L rajano Aug. Ger. Dac. Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. Trajano Aug. Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. rr. p. Imp.TrajanoAug.Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. v. p. Imp.TrajanoAug.Ger.Dac. p. m. tr.p. cos. vi.p. ANTXAICNETPAIANOCCEBTEPM Imp.TrajanoAug.Ger.Dac. p. m. tr. p. cos. v. p, Imp.TrajanoAug.Ger.Dac. p.m. tr. p. cos. vi. p. Imp. Trajano Aug. Ger Dac. p. m. tr. p. Imp. I'rajano Aug Ger. Dac. p. m. tr. p. Imp. Caefar T'rajan Hadrianus Aug. Imp. Csefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Hadrianus x\ug. cos. m. p. p. Hadrianus AuguRus Imp. Csefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Hadrianus Aug. cos. in. p. p. Imp. Caefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Imp. Caefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Imp. Caefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Hadrianus AuguRus Imp. Caefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Hadrianus Aug. cos. in. p. p. Imp. Caefar Trajan Hadrianus Aug. Antoninus AuguRus p. p. aelius Caeiar FauRina Sabina AuguRa reverfe, Judsa. A prifoner under a trophy pon. max. tr. p. cos. v. A caduceus. pontif. maxim. A caduceus pontif. max fedens cum haRa in dex. flore in laeva a fow and three pigs. imp. in. rev. p. m. tr. p. cos. S.p.q.r. A genius of plenty pont. max. tr. pot. cos. n. Genius fedens p. m. tr, p cos. nil. p. f. A genius of plenty p. m. tr. p. cos. II. juflitia. Genius sedens S.p. q, r. opt. principi. Genius of plenty. cos.v.p.p.s.p.q, r. opt.princ. Genius cum pavone S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Mars gradivus S p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius facrificans S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Columna Trajana AHMES mil S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum bilance S. p. q. r. optimo principi. Genius cum puero cos.vi.p.p.s.p.q.r.opt.pr. Veflafed.cum vi 61 ;oriola cos.v.p.p.s.p.q r.opt.pr. Genius Rans cum prora p. m. tr p. cos. III. Genius cum caduceo Y) m.irys.cos.iu. A female in the pojiure of imploring falus Aug. Hygeia cos. III. Genius armatus fedens ^.m.tr.Y-r.os.wi.ageniuswithtwobuJlosinher hands Africa Genia Nili procumbens p. m. tr. p. cos. Ill, Genius fedens facrificans p. m. tr. p. cos. Fortuna fedens cum prora p. m. tr. p. cos. III. Genius nudus facrificans cos. Ill, Hercules fedens cum vidloriola -Vi6toria fedens p. m. tr.p. cos. Ill, Fortuna Rans moneta Aug, Genius cum bilance p, m. tr. p. cos. III. falus, Hygeia fedens -Genius nudus facrificans reverfe, cos. pulvinar cum fulmine tr pot, cos. II. Concord, vidloria fedens VeRa pulvinar Concordia Aug. genia Rans cum patera Thefe being all of the higher empire, and many excellently well cut, indicate that they were hid early, and perliaps about this time, that the Watling-Rreet was made: they were found in a hole in the fields between Loughborow and the Watling-Rreet, with about a dozen more than here deferibed. Wickliff lived at Lutterworth, his pidfure in theparfonage, Mr. Button of Kimeote, near here, a curious man. Wickliff’s pulpit Rill left, A petrifying fpring at Lutterworth. 1 I T E R V. II large as to denominate the town: indubitably it comes from the Britifh yNord pant, a little valley as this is, and remarkably fo ; which the Britons pronouncing broad, created the Latin T^ripontium. Here are no manner of remains of antiquity, but the diftances on each hand afcertain this tire place : hard by antiquities have been found both at Cathorp and Lilburn, one on the north, the other on the fouth of the river ; fo that the Roman city flood on both fides. Cafllc hills, a place at Lilburn, where are fome old walls : Camden fpeaks of it. Mr. Morton has treated largely on this Ration, to whom I refer the reader. The neighbouring Newton probably fucceeded it, and then Rugby. Yet rolling Avon Rill maintains its flream, Swell’d with the glories of the Roman name. Strange power of fate, unfhaken moles muR waRe, While things that ever move for ever laR! With this reflection of the poet leave we the name of 'T^rlpontiu 7 n, made immortal in the imperial Itinerary. When we mount the next hill there is a lovely profpedl as far as Wat- ford-gap, four miles off, a great vale or rather level meadow lying between, a-crofs which the road is drawn : and hereabouts the ridge of it is very high for miles together : the nature of the way, on both Tides being Roney, has fpared it. Several tu?nuli upon the road ; bodies found under them: this fhows the Romans did not travel upon them on horfe-back. Wat- ford-gap is a convenient inn for antiquaries to fupply the manflon of 1 ‘ripontium, which I think proper to advertife them of: it has a pleafant profpedl of the road northwards: it is a high kill, and a rock of Rone fix foot under the furface, which is foftifli; then a bed of clay; under that a blue hard Rone of good depth: below this rock it is fpringy, and at the bottom by the meadows are many quick fprings. At Legers Afliby near here has been another old town, as they fay, deRroyed by the Danes : there are great ditches, caufeways, and marks of Rreets. Catefoy owned the town, who hatched the powder-plot. I went out of the road through Norton to fee a great camp called Burrow hill, upon the north ^^urrovv end of a hill covered over with fern and gofs : here is a horfe-race kept; and I the whole hill-top, which is of great extent, feems to have been fortifled : i but the principal work upon the end of it is fquarifli, double ditched, of ‘ about twelve acres : the inner ditch is very large, and at one corner has a = fpring : the val/wn is but moderate: a fquarifli work within, upon the j higheR part of the camp, like a prcetoriiim. They fay this was a Danifli I camp; and every thing hereabouts is attributed to the Danes, becaufe of the neighbouring Daventre, which they fuppofe to be built by them : the j, road hereabouts too being overgrown with da 72 e-weed, they fancy it fprung from the blood of the Danes flain in battle, and that, if upon a certain day in the year you cut it, it bleeds. As to the camp, I believe it to be ori¬ ginally Roman ; but that it has been occupied by fome other people, and perhaps the Danes, who have new modelled it, and made new works to it. Confult Mr. Moreton, who has difcourfed very largely about it. Much ‘ cotyledon and ros foils grow in the fprings hereabouts : the Rone is red and fandy, and brim-full of fliells. I faw a fine cornu ammo 7 iis lie neglected in Norton town road, too big to bring away, and where they have frefli inended the Watling-Rreet with this Rone; it was an amufement for lome : miles to view the fliells in it. Hereabouts the road is overgrown with grafs and trefoil, being well nigh negledled for badnefs, and the trade G g wholly ITER ¥ Arbury HILL. Ro. camp. Ben Avon A TAB. XXVIII. Voi. Castle- dikes. Lactoro- ,DUM. wholly turned another way, by Coventry, for that reafon. Between the head of the Learn and this Avon is Arbury hill in view, another Roman camp, upon a very high hill j notorioufly made for a guard between the two rivers. The next Ration the Watling-ftreet leads us to is Weedon on.the ftreet; ht'jond Benavonay as furely it ought to be wrote, being fituate on the head of the Aufonay running to Northavontofiy or Northampton. This too affords but little matter for the antiquary. The old town feems to have been in two paftures weft of the road, and fouth of the church, called Upper Afti-clofe and Nether Afh-clofe, or the Afhes; in which are mani- feft veftiges of the ditch and rampart that furrounded it, and many marks of great foundations : they fhow you the fite of king Wolfhere’s palace, the Saxon kings of this province having their feat here. The Alhes was the Roman cafirmn: here was a chapel of St. Werberg, daughter of king Wolf here, abbefs to the nunnery in this place: there has been dug up abundance of very fine ftone, and many Roman coins. Now Weedon confifts of two parifhes, and has been a market-town, There is a large Roman camp a little higher toward the river-head, fouthward a mile, as much from Watling-ftreet, called Caftledikes, probably one of thofe made by P. Oftorius Scapula, proprator under Claudius. Roman coin and pavements have been found there. I vifited the place: it is of a very plea- lant and healthful fituation, being in a wood on the top of a dry hill: probably it was a Roman villa, afterwards rendered Saxon : a houfe ftands by it. Another of thefe camps of Scapula I mentioned before, at Guildf- borough. At Nether Hayford, on the other fide the road, anno 1699, a Roman Mofaic pavement was found, of which Mr. Moreton gives us a drawing, but in too fmall a compafs. Towcefter is a confiderable town between two rivulets; but what its Roman name, time has envied us, the Itinerary paffing it by. LaBorodum is the next Ration, being Old Stretford, on the oppofite fide of the Oufe to Stony Stretford : many Roman coins have been found in the fields there¬ abouts, and queen Eleanor’s crofs ftood a little north of the Horfe-fhoe inn, pulled down in the rebellion ; which fhows that the town was on this fide the bridge in the time of Edward I. Mr. Baxter fays, the name imports the ford over the water. My friend Browne Willys efq^ who lives in the neighbourhood, has inquired into the antiquities of this place, and gives us an account of them in his curious Treat!fe of Burroughs, which it is to be wiflied he would continue. A little on this fide Stretford, to the weft, upon very high ground ftands Whaddon hall, Mr. Willys’s feat , it has a moft delicate profpedf: this manor formerly belonged to the lords Grey; one, a knight of the garter, lies buried in the church. Spencer the poet lived here, and the learned duke of Bucks. Here is the original picture of Dr. Willys: I faw many of his MSS. letters, confultations, ledlures, and other works unprinted. Still higher ftands Stukeley, a very large parilh, on the fame fort of foil as that in Huntingdonftiire. This is the oldeft church, and moft intire, I ever faw, undoubtedly before the Conqueft, in the plain ancient manner, being a parallelogram of four fquares: two are allotted to the church ; one covered by the fteeple, which ftands between it and the choir, carried acrofs the church upon two round arches ; one fquare to the choir, which is vaulted over with ftone: the windows are fmall, with femi-circular arches, and few in number; at the weft end are three arches, the door in the middlemoft; the whole of a very good manner of lymmetry. Thus 115 ITER V. Thus far we have gone through Northamptonftiire and Bucks: now w« tenter Bedfordftiire, and arrive at Magiovinium-, or Dunftable. The road Maciovj- hither from Fenny Stretford is deep fand (and comes from Salina^ ov fandy) till you arrive at the bottom of the chalk-hills, or ckiltern^ which ariie very fl-eep on this fide, as being north-weft, conform to my aflumption, p. 4. The town ftands upon this chalk ; whence its Roman name, importing the white town it confifts of four ftreets, interfering at right angles, but oblique to the cardinal points, becaufe fuch is the dire6tion of the Icening and Watling-ftreet, which here meet. In the centre flood one of thofe beautiful croifes of queen Eleanor j but fanatic zeal has robbed the town of this ornament. This being a high fituation, and no running water near, they are forced to draw up their water, from very deep wells, by machinery of great wheels. Kinglbury, the royal feat over-againft the church, is now a farm-houfe. The church is compofed of many parts tacked together, fome very old: it was part of the priory: arch-bifhop Cranmer was the laft prior here. In Dunftable church is this infcription, mcent 3l3icf)olau0 ILanc quontiam ptefineng frarnitat’ fci 3loftanm0 'Baptific tie Dunfiahle qui obiit ii Ut menf’ anno Dm CCCC" lir €t 3gne0 m ef quorum animabus p?opicietut Deu0 amen* I vifited Maiden-Bower,J mentioned by Mr. Camden, but cannot tliink its Maiuen name has any relation to that of the town : though Roman coins have been found here, I am perfuaded it is a Britilh work, like that at Afhwell, at ^ ^ ' like diftance from the Chiltern, and of like form, but more circular ; it ftands upon a plain, but not far from the edge of a leiler eminence of thefe hills, about a little mile from Dunftable; the rampire is pretty high, but very little fign of a ditch; nor do I think there ever was much more : it inclofes about nine acres : the ground round it is ploughed: this chalk yields good wheat. Between here and the town is a long barrow called the Mill-hill, no doubt from a mill which was afterwards fet upon it; the ends of it ploughed fomewhat: it ftands eaft and weft : I have no fcruple in fuppofing it Celtic. A high prominence of the Chiltern overlooks all, called the Five Knolls, from that number of barrows, or Celtic tumuli^ round, pretty large, and ditched about upon the very apex of the hill. Clofe by are two round cavities, as often obferved in Wiltfliire. The Icening-ftreet runs under the bottom. Thefe chalk hills have frequently veins of ftrong clay intermixed, and the like between thefe hills and the fand more northward. This great traft of chalk comes from the eaftern fea, and traverfes the kingdom much in a like diredlion with the Icening- ftreet. At Woburn is fome fullers earth. There was a noble abbey, now the feat of the duke of Bedford; in it feveral valuable works of Inigo Jones left, particularly a curious grotto. From Dunftable the Itinerary leads us out of the road, going ftrait to Verolam, and takes in another ftation by the way, Durocobrivis j which dcmonftrates it was made not fo much for travellers, as for the foldiery or officers that vv^ere to vifit the garrifons, therefore comprehends as many as * Magus rather fignifies originally a field, or plain, and where probably the old Britons had their religious ceremonies, Iports, and races, &c. the barrov.'S too hereabout indicate here Ins been an ancient Britifh temple ; and I fuppofe the name of Long Meg and her daughters, at the Briti/ii temple in Cumberland^ only the remains of die original name Magus. J In Speed’s Hiftory of England, p. 261. Maiden Bower by the fea-coafl in Norfolk, w'here Hunftanton w'as built. This was undoubtedly a Roman camp there. 116 ITE V. Duroco- ERI VIS. TAB. XXIX. id Vol. Verolani UM. TAB.XCV as could conveniently be taken into that route. About this Ihation anti¬ quaries have been much divided, when it certainly ought to be placed at Berghamfted, commonly Barkamflead, in Hertfordfliire, v/hich well fuits the afllgned diftances from Magiovinium, and the fubfequent Ferolanium, and has evidently been a Roman town, as its name imports ; and probably the caftle there frauds upon a Roman foundation. It is certain Roman coins are frequently dug up there : my friend Mr. Browne Willys has a Roman coin, found there : young Mr. Whitfield, brother to the major at St. Alban’s, has many Roman coins, great and fmall, found in the caftle at Berghamfted. The infide, wdthin the wails where the lodgings were, is about two acres : the entrance was not at the corner, where now, but in the front of the fouth fide: many chimneys remain in the wall, of the lodgings which extended quite round, leaving a fpacious court within ; and all the windows looked inw’^ard : the ground of the court is diftinguifhable, being good foil, and there they find the Roman coins ; the reft is rubbifh and foundations ; fo that the Saxon caftle was made upon the Roman : the chapel feems to have ftcod againft the weft wall, where be figns of a ftair- cafe : tlie w^alls are of flints gathered from the high lands, very thick, and laid with ftrong mortar. This town fully anfwers the diftance in the Itinerary, and remarkably the import of the name, according to Mr. Bax¬ ter’s derivation, though he erroneoufly places it at Woburn, civitas paludoji prcjlimiiis for here is a large marflr, or bog, wherein the ancient Britifli oppidum was placed : it is moft fweetly furrounded with high, hard, and pieafant ground all around, full of hedge-rows, paftures, and arable: the caftle w’as fet very judicioully in the north fide, upon a piece of dry ground, incompafl'ed with fprings, by the Saxons made exceedingly ftrong. The town is upon the louth fide of the marfh, ftretching itfelf a good length in handfome buildings, and a broad ftreet: the church is a large hand- fome building, a monumental effigies of a knight and a lady 3 upon his coat a bend or belt, and in the fmifter chief a martlet; a lion his creft under his feet: it is full of chapels and monuments old and new. This town has been an old corporation 3 the kings of Mercia refided here 3 Wightred, king of Kent and Mercia, anno 697, held a parliament here; and here king Ina’s laws were publiftied : all which further confirm its being the place we afiert.'j- Near is Aftiridge, an abbey, now the feat of the duke of Bridgewater; a park finely wooded, efpecially with tall beech-trees full of maft. Here¬ abouts I obferved many great ftones compofed wholly of little pebbles ; others, of larger pebbles or flints petrified together exceeding hard. Near Ricmerefworth, at Moor park, Mr. Styles, digging a hill away, found veins of fea-fand with mufcles in them, and many other curious particulars. ■ We come again into the Watling-ftreet at Verolanium. I need fay little here, after Mr. Camden, Chancey, Weaver, and others. This v/as the famous municipium of the Romans, deftroyed by Boadicia. The form of the city is depifted in plate 95. in one part the ditch is double, but irregu¬ larly formed. I imagine the outermoft was the only fence of the firft city, which Boadicia deftroyed before the walls were built, and thefe reduced it into a more fquare form ; to which the inner ditch belonged. In fome meafure the track of the ftreets is vifible, when the corn firft: comes up, or is nearly ripe : three years ago good part of the wail was ftanding; but ever fince, t At the fame time and place, the king, and Bertuald archbifhop of Canterbury, held a coun¬ cil and enadted canons. K. Henry I. kept his court here, 1122, as Hen. Hunt fays, p. 218. ITER V. 117 fince, out of wretched ignorance, even of their own intereft, they have been pulling it up all around, to the very foundations, to mend the high¬ way; and I met hundreds of cart-loads of Roman bricks, &c. carrying for that purpofe, as I now rode through the old city, though they may have (tone cheaper, becaufc of the prodigious ftrength of the mortar, fo that they cannot get up one whole brick in a thoufand. The compofition of the Roman wall is three foot layers of flint, and one foot made up of three courfes of Roman brick: there are round holes quite through the wall, at about eight yards diftance, in that corner ftill left by St. German’s chapel: another great piece of the wall is left by the weft gate, called Gorham Block ; it is always twelve foot thick. I faw a little brafs lar^ or genim alatus ; another curious antiquity, of a brafs knife-handle with odd faces and (igures on it, now in pofieftion of Sir Robert Cornwall, baronet; a little urn of white earth two inches and quarter high : part of a great wine-jar, 20 inches high, two foot diameter, in St. Michael’s veftry; another fuch in St. Alban’s church. In St. Michael’s church fleeps the great riaturalift Bacon, who firft revived the experimental way of philofophy: his manfion-houfe or manor was at Gorhambury, hard by, where is a ftatue of Henry VIII. and feveral things worth feeing: it is now the feat of my loj d Grimftone. Infinite are the antiquities of all forts that have been, and frequently are, dug up at Verolani. When I was making an ichnography of it, I could have taken feveral pecks of remainders of Mofaic pavements out of a little ditch near St. German’s chapel; and there is one or twm intire yet under ground. As you w^alk along the great road that runs north and fouth through the city from St. Michael’s church, you fee foundations of houfes and ftreets, gutters, floors, &c. under the hedge-rows. The ancient part of the monaftic church and the fteeple are intirely built of Roman brick, fetched by the abbots from the old city. March 1718-9 a Mofaic pavement was found. The Roman bricks are generally eighteen inches long, twelve broad, one and a half thick. I meafured one in the fouth-wall of the fchool-houfe, by the eaft end of the abbey church, twenty-three inches long, three thick, which probably w^as made for hypocaufts. Upon the walls of old Verulam grows the bee orchis, a very curious plant. Many are the monuments, braffes, tombs, and inferiptions, in the abbey church : the vault of Hum¬ phry duke of Glocefter was lately difeovered : the high altar is a curious piece of Gothic work, which I have reprefented in two plates. Hard by is Sop- well nunnery, where they fay Hem y VIII. was married to Anna Bolen: TAB XXX part of it is ftanding. But to fay any thing particular of religious anti- quities, would be too tedious : they have lately been working hard at pull¬ ing up the old foundations of the abbey, and it it now levelled with the pafture, when three years ago one might make a tolerable guefs at the ichnography of the place. In the heart of the town of the adjoining cor¬ poration ftood another of queen Eleanor’s croffes, which they likewife intirely demolifhed, not confidering that fuch kind of antiquities invite many curious travellers to come thither. This very year they pulled down the ftone tower or gate-houfe on the north fide of the abbey, within a month after I had taken a fketch of it. In St. Peter’s church I found this old infeription on a ftone, : 3!C3f: : KXB : : ( 1 B 31 C : I lhall add no more, than that my notion of the derivation of this town, and feveral others compounded of like words, is, a fair habitation, Vroldn, as it juftly merits. H h The ii8 ITER V. The Watling-ftreet feems to have pafied diredlly through the Roman city, a. little fouthward of St. Michael’s church and St. Mary’s chapel, fo by St. Stephen’s: neverthelefs there is a road round about, without the fouth fide of the city-walls, for thofe that had no occafion to go through the city : it goes by St. Julian’s, once an hofpital; then by Colney-ftreet and Radway ; thence almoft difufed, and fcarce known but from its ftrait- nefs ; it continues direft, but very narrow, the hedges having incroached SuELi A both fides, till we arrive at our next Ration, Siiellaniads^ upon ^cis. Brockley hill, a little fouth of ElRre, and near Stanmore. From this eminence, w'here Mr. Philpot’s fummer-houfe Rands, is a fweet profpedl acrofs the Thames into Surrey: this is by Kendale wood, w^here formerly they found an old flint wall laid in terrace-mortar as they call it, meaning its Rrength, fo hard that they could not poflibly dig it up with pick-axes: they found an oven in the fame place. Mr. Philpot, when digging his canal and foundations for his buildings, which are upon the fite of the old city, found many coins, urns, and other antiquities. They have a proverb here. No heart can thinks nor tongue can telly IVhat lies between Brockley-hill a?jd Penny-well; meaning the coins found thereabouts. In the wood over-againR the houfe, great quantity of Roman bricks, gold rings, and coins, have been found in digging; many arched vaults of brick and flints under the trees : the whole top of the hill is covered with foundations. Penny well is a parcel of clofes acroi’s the valley beyond Suellajiiacisy where foundations are dif- cernible : here likewife they fay was a city: two or three years ago they dug privately, in hopes of flnding treafure at this place. I am of Mr. Bax¬ ter’s opinion, that the name of this Ration has fome reference to the fa¬ mous Britifli king Suellany or Caffibelan, general of the Britons againR Ccefar, and that his town was in this neighbourhood; which I fliall con- lider more particularly upon another occalion. By the road fide is a bar- row lately dug away. Hence the road goes through Edgvvorth; and fo at Paddington, by Tyburn, it crolfes the other Roman road, called now Oxford-Rreet, which was originally continued to Old-Rreet, going north of London one way; the other way it proceeds by the back fide of Kenfington, and through an unfrequented path, till it falls into the prefent great road to Brentford, Stanes, &c. and it is a Roman road all the way, going pretty nearly eaR and w^eR ; therefore our Watling-Rreet muR crofs it with an oblique angle j and by obfervation I found it to be about forty-five degrees. Higden takes notice the Watling-Rreet ran to the weR of WeRminRer, over the Thames, fo through the middle of Kent: from Tyburn I judge it goes over part of Hyde-parkj-f- and by May-fair, through St. James’s park, to the Rreet by Old Palace-yard called the Wool-Raple, to the Thames. Here has been an old gate j one part of the arch is Rill left, but not Roman. On the oppo- , fite fide of the river is Stane-gate ferry, which is the continuation of this Rreet to Canterbury, and fo to the three famous fea-ports, Rutupiay Du-^ briSy and hernanis. This Oxford road was originally carried north of London, in order to pafs into ERex, becaufe London then was not con- fiderable ; but in a little time became well nigh loR ; and Holborn was ftruck out from it, as condubfing travellers thither, direftly entering the city at Newgate, originally called Chamberlain’s gate, and fo to London- Rone I A brafs Roman lar dug up about Grofvenor fquare (in pofleffion of Mr. Beaupre Bell) near where the Roman road ran, the Watling-ftreet. LOl^DlNIVM '(TAME ^IS ( i In men ’irrc^i/.rei //^//. / ^ V//lA'/( P‘- '(/‘a/i^ / lSS/k^J‘^ Ct •■■..•«•J-. / I •n 3 Z Xit5 Cot\r Iloxtsc ^5 . 1/2 z - T/ia ISr. E.. Erof^ect. I t/ie Ccu/z^'j/ ^/7-oni Ivits Coty" JioiKe O^t. ly , V r.-i; Dno, iS'amueli Lennard 3ari'. ^ Ta6u/'§ ^ ^ ^ -Ni ^ s ITER V. 123 as magnificent as richly endowed; and fucli its ruins demonftrate, and the great compafs of ground it took up, incircled with a very high wall. Great vying was ever here between the religious of St. x'^uftin and of Tho. a Becket, both very rich and contentious. At the weft end of this church, as I con- jedlure, were two great towers: half of one is ftill remaining, called Ethel- bert’s tower : all the whole ftones and pillars about it are Ikinned oif as far as they can reach; and every year a buttrefs, a fide of an arch, or the like, pafles fub hajia. There is part of the other ftanding, if it can be fo faid, that is only not fallen ; I call it miiro torto : it is a vaft angular piece of the tower, about thirty foot high, which has been undermined by digging away a courfe at bottom, in order to be thrown dowm; but it happened only to disjoint itfelf from the foundation, and leaping, as it were, a little fpace, lodged itfelf in the ground in that inclining ftate, to the wonderment of the vulgai’i who do not difcern the meaning of it, though the foundation it came from is fufticiently vifible : thus happening to be equally poized, it is a fight fomewhat dreadful, and forbids a too near approach on any fide, with the apprehenfion of its falling that way. Under St. Ethelbert’s tower is the porch where St. Auguftin and his fix fucceflbrs, as Bede tells us, were interred : the arched roof is left, but ready to fall: the pavement is gone, in the middle of which was an altar. The adjacent clofe is full of religious ruins and foundations, one great part turned into a liable near the almery: all over they are bufy in pulling it up, to fell the ftones; which generally pays the rent, and yet the tenants of fuch places thrive never the more. In one corner of this field are the walls of a chapel, faid TAB.XXV to have been achriftian temple before St. Auguftin’s time, and reconfecrated by him to St. Pancras : a great apple-tree and fome plum-trees now grow in it: the lower part of it is really old, and moftly made of Roman brick, and thicker walls than the fuperftrudlure ; there is an old Roman arch on the fouth fide toward to altar, the top of it about as high as one’s nofe; fo that the ground has been much raifed : the prefent eaft window is a pointed arch, though made of Roman brick, later than St. Auftin’s time: near it a little room, faid to have been king Ethelbert’s pagan chapel: however it be, ' both thefe and the wall adjoining are moftly built of Roman brick: the breadth of the mortar is rather more than the brick, and full of pebbles; but the mark of the devil’s claws, there obferved by the vulgar, is fantaftical. The garden and orchard adjoining feem to lie in their an¬ cient form : there is a large fquare mount clofe by the wall, which it equals in height, and gives a profpedl into the fields. Your lordftiip has a huge water-pipe dug up among many other antiquities in a Roman bath difco- vered at Canterbury : it is five inches and a half diameter at the fmallerend, feventeen long, feven in diameter at the broad end : they were faftened into one another with ftrong terrace cement. The great number of other anti¬ quities of all forts, found at and about this city, make part of your fine col¬ lection. Eaftward of this, and farther out of the city, is the church of St. Mar¬ tin, faid to be the chriftian place of devotion, where king Etheibert’s queen ufed to go, and St. Auftin’s firft fee: it is built, for the moft part, of Roman brick : in the middle is a very large old-falhioned font, fuppofed that where the king was baptifed. North of the city is a very fmall ‘ rem¬ nant of St. Gregory’s chapel, founded probably by Auftin to the honour of his patron. The cathedral of Canterbury is very ftately, but neither in length, breadth, nor height, efpecially in front, equal to Lincoln, in my judgement: it is intirely 124 1 T E E, V. RuTUPIiE. TAB. XXXV. 2d Vol. Intirely vaulted with ftone, and of a very pretty model of building, but much too high for its breadth, as all Gothic buildings were. I believe they got this ill tafte from building upon the old foundations, the ancient churches being much narrower and lower than in the fucceeding times ; when greater riches flowed in upon them, they carried their walls and roofs to an unfeemly height. The place where Thomas a Becket’s fhrine flood, is fufPicientiy known by the mark of the devoted knees quite around it, which have left deep impreifions in the hard coarfe marble. The Black Prince has a noble monument of brafs : that of Henry IV. is a good tomb, and there is a pretty chapel hard by, to fay mafs for him. There is an old pic¬ ture of arch-biOiop Becket’s martyrdom, as called ; and upon the wall an old painting of the fiege of Jerufalem, in our old habits. Here are feveral monuments of the bifhops. The metropolitan chair is of grey marble, flanding behind the high altar: the cloyilers are pretty goo^, and a very large chapel near them, called Sermon-houle, wainfcotted with Irifh oak. The reafon of the ancient name of this Britifli city feems intimated in this verfe of Virgil, Divinofqiie lacus & averna fona 7 itia filvis. iTn. iii. The poor derivation of the commentators thereon ought to be referred to Tufcan original, to which our Celtic is a-kin. Leaving Canterbury,-f- I journeyed to find out Rutiipia. At Wingham I faw a very large barrow, of Celtic make, by the road fide, called the Mount: upon enquiry I found there v.'ere feveral more in the parifh, and that a lane here is called Port-lane j doubtlefs the Roman road, for here the common road goes more fouthward. The Roman city and port 'without peradventure was the place now called Stonar, or Stanar^ as they pronounce it, from the flony foundations I chufe to think ; over-againfl Sandwich, or rather half a mile lower upon the river coming from Canterbury, and almoft in com palled by it. This river at firft difcharged itfelf into the fea by Ebbesfiete, north of the Roman city, till the fand, pouring fo directly upon it, obliged the ftream to Bide under the cliff by Richborough caftle, and fo by Sandwich : then, coming in obliquely by the weight of its waters, it maintains its paflage. I conceit the etymology of Rhutupium, about which the learned contend much, is to be fought for in this Ebbesjlete j and that this w'ater was originally called Ube^ or T’yvi : rhyd tyf^ or tyvi, is the paffage over it: the Saxons called it Reptacefter^ a contraflion only from Rhutupi- cefter : and fo our Ebbe at prefent came from them ; Ruptimuth anciently. Hence you fee far into the iBe of Thanet and Ramfgate cliff, named from the Romans, thrufting its chalky promontory into the fea. This was the chief port for the Roman navy.:|; At prefent there is only a farm-houfe or two, flanding on an elevation in the marfhes; they informed me that here had been a great city, and that they can difcover all the flreets when the corn is on the ground j and thofe flreets are nothing but pure gravel laid very deep : innumerable Bones and foundations have been dug up, but now moilly evacuated j and no doubt Sandwich Vv^as built out of it. The river runs clofe by it, with difficulty preferving its current to the fea j but no doubt originally it was an open beech, or port: perhaps the city itfelf was an illand. The old mouth of the river is now filled up by the alloniBiing quantity of fmall pebbles thrown into this bay by the roll of the t The ground eaft of Canterbury is fandy, and favourable for hops. % In this port landed St. Auguftin, the apoflle of our Saxon anceftors. View o£ Portii^ Rutiip ja? irou) k^S^ajiduaelj . "7. 2 / 2.2 . 125 ITER V. the ocean : you fee here a hundred acres of this flat ground covered over with them fix or feven foot deep, and looking blue like the water. I fan¬ cied the people that lived here, in like danger with thofe that travel the fandy deferts of Africa, or Arabia. Here sre two elevations, where they fay two churches flood : upon one, where an elder-tree grows, much rub¬ ble and ftone is left, but no part of any building; nor is it eafy to diftinguifli what it was originally. Richborough caftle, as now called, was the fort as it were to this city, tab. and Ration of the garrifon, which was to watch and defend the port andXCVlI. fea-coafl hereabout ; or rather one of thofe caflles built upon the littia Saxonicumy in the time of Theodofius : it is a mile off Stanar and Sand¬ wich, lituate upon the highefl elevation near hand, and being the only fmall part of a bold fhore in all this bay; the river runs at the foot of it, - arvaque & urbem Littore diduBam angujio interluit cejlu. Virg. Ai^n. ill. It is a mofl noble remnant of Roman antiquity, where in later times of their empire the Legio II. Aug. was quartered: the walls on three lides are pretty intire, and in fome places flill about twenty-five or thirty foot high, without any ditch : the fide next the fea being upon a kind of cliff, the top of the wall is but level with the ground : befide, at the eafl angle the wall defcends to another Rope juft upon the river, which feems to have been in the nature of an outwork, or gradual afcent into the caftle: the ground on the infide is pretty much raifed. In the middle of the north- eaft fide there is a fquare work jutting out from the wall, which feems to have been an oblique-f- gate to enter at, for thofe that came from the water ftde j and it is not unlikely that gap on the north-weft fide was another gate: it was a fquare CV. paces one way, CL. the other j according to the Roman method of making camps, a third part longer than their breadth. There is a foundation within, which has caufed many words among the Kentifh antiquaries; feems to have been a Pharos, or lodging for the com¬ manding officer, a prcetorium: there are foundations of feveral apartments, the walls monftroufly thick and ftrong. It is manifeft to any one that ferioufly contemplates the ruins of the walls in divers places, that this caftle w'’as deftroyed by great violence and induftrioully; I guefs, by the Saxons immediately after the Romans left the iRand, when they could more boldly make defcents upon the coaft : the reafon why, is evident from the intent of thefe caftles : upon the eaftern corner, efpecially, great piles of w^all' lie one upon another like rocks : in ether places cavities are hewn out of its thicknefs, that would make good lodging-rooms: the manner of the compo- Rtion of the walls is feven courfes of fmall hewn ftone, w'hich take up four Roman feet: then two courfes of Roman brick, which are Vv hite, like the brick in the iRe of Ely. I obferve all the brick about Sandwich to be of the fame colour, made of whitiRi clay. The walls are twelve foot thick ; the inward body thereof is made of flint and exceiTive hard mortar. Sandwich bears direftly fouth. Dr. Holland talks of a carved head over one of the gates j but I could find no fuch thing now. In the way thither, upon an eminence is the carcafs of a caftrenfian amphitheatre madeAnPHi- of turf j I fuppofe, for the exercife and diverfion of the garrilbn : the foil of’ theatre. it is gravel and fand, and has been long ploughed over, that we need not t tB. wonder it is fo level. There are three Roman tumuli before Sandwich v/eft XXXVI, K k gate; 2d Vol. t Vitruvius direAs the gates of cities to be made oblique. This was called Madan gate, from the figure of a woman over it, as the vulgar fancy. tlz6 iter V. gate; one a windmill (lands on : it is not eafy to affign which Contentus was buried under ; Conte-fitum tellus quem Rutupina tegit. Auson. South of Sandwich, as we go along upon the fea-lhore, are fix large and broad Celtic tumuli^ equidillant: the fecond from the town has been dug away, to raife a little fort upon the road ; they all ftand in a line eafl and weft.§ This flat coaft: is fenced againfl; the ocean by the fand-downs, which in Lincolnfhire we call meals: but within the memory of man, as they told me, the fea has commenced a new method of guarding againfl: its own vio¬ lence, by covering the fhore, for a great depth and height, with the pebbles afore mentioned j which is an odd mutation in nature; and it is obfervable that thefe pebbles come from the fouth. I rode from Sandwich as far as Hithe, upon the brink of the fhore or cliff, in fight of France all the way j and nothing could be more entertaining in this autumnal feafon, when the weather is generally clear, ferene and calm. Much fea tithxmal grows here, and a very pretty plant,, papaver cornutum Jlore luteoy rock famphire^ feeding upon petroleum-, a mofl excellent pickle, and many more.|| The murmur of the ocean has a noble folemnity in it, as Homer fays, when latinifed, Eru&ante falo raucam dant littora vocem. More copioufly exprefled in Virgil, Et gemitum ingentem pelagi, pulfataque faxa. Audimus longe, fradlafque ad littora voces. Exfultantque vada atque cejiu mifcentur arena. iTn. iii. which is an exaCt idea of this place. By liftening attentively I obferved this noife of the ocean is by fits, at fhort but equal intervals j which I be¬ lieve gave occaflon to that fancy of the ancients, that every tenth wave was the largefl ; of which Ovid has a diftich. Sandown caftle is compofed of four lunettes of very thick arched work of flone, with many port-holes for great guns : in the middle is a great round tower, with a ciflern at top j underneath an arched cavern, bomb-proof: a fofs incompafies the whole, to which there is a palfage over a draw-bridge. Deal caflle and Walmer caflle are of the fame nature, all built by Har¬ ry VIII. to guard this naked level coafl : moreover, lines are drawn along between caftle and caftle, and at proper intervals round baftions with a ditch and parapet of earth, where cannon may be planted, as in the infancy of fortification. Thefe are what Camden calls Rome's works, and fancies to be remnants of Caefar’s ftiip-camp : the neighbours with as little truth affirm they were thrown up by Oliver Cromwell, for reduction of thefe caftles: § There are a great number of large barrows about Sandwich ; one at Winfborough, with a tree upon it ; fo it is called by the vulgar, but the learned make it Wodnefborough : between that and Sandwich is another, called Marvil hill. [] Among the fand-hills by Sandwich I found a curious plant, which I take to be the fatyrium abor-ivum^ or bird’s-neft of Gerard : it has a bulbous root of a red colour ; the ftem fometimes a foot long, whitifh like young afparagus, and almoft naked ; a great fpike of white flowers, of the cucullate fort, with a black apex : they are exceeding odoriferous. I found much eryngo there, which fmells pleafantly when broke ; and on all the banks of the ditches hereabouts garden-fennel grows in great plenty. Sandwich is in a miferable, decayed condition, following apace the downfall of its mother Ruiu- pium : it might eafily be made the beft harbour on this coaft, by cutting a new channel for the river about a mile and half through the fand-hills fouth eafterly ; tor the water of the river Stour would fufficiently fcour it, did it run ft.ait, and with that dire6lion. All the walls and bul- works of the town are difmantled, the gates tumbling down ; and a few cannon lie fcattered here and there. This town likewife might be made very ftrong ; for", befides the river Stour, another rivulet runs through it, that would keep the ditches always full. 1 ia7 ITER V. caftles: one is clofe by the north fide of Deal, and two between Deal caftle and Walmer caftle. At Walmer caftle the clitF begins for about half a mile fouthward with a gentle rife to a hill, whereon is a tumulus: then the (here is plain again in a valley till you come to Kings-wold, which is half a mile’s fpace. Between Walmer caftle and Deal I take to be therAH. fpot where Csefar landed in his firft expedition, becaufe it is the firft place XXXVII where the fhore can be afeended north of Dover, and exaftly anfwers his afligned diftance of eight miles: probably in his fecond expedition, when he came with many more fhips, and had a perfedt knowledge of the country, he went a little farther in the downs, whereabouts now is Deal, a town lately fprung up from the mariners. As for his fea-camps, it is vain to expedl a fi^t of them ; they are many ages fmee abforpt by the ocean, which has fo long been exerciftng its power, and wafting the land away. Even fince Harry the Vlllth’s time it has carried off the fea-ward ejpla- nades of the three caftles, and one half of two of the three circular forts. Indeed, of late years, the providential ejedlment of thofe pebbles has put a ftop to it in fome mcafure; and it is amazing to fee how it by degrees fills up thefe fofles and trenches, and fometimes flies over the banks a good way up into the land, with a power well exprefled by the poet, Aut vaga cum T'ethys Rutupinaque littora fervent. Lucan, vi. But of this affair of Caefar’s I referve to myfelf another opportunity of fpeak- ing, when I fhall exprefly treat of his expedition hither. At Deal caftle is a very good well, though clofe by the fea. Now my journey lay intirely upon the edge of the cliffs, whofe preci- picious height, with the noble profpedt at fea, and moft awful roaring of the waves, filled the mind with a fenfe of Nature’s majefty. About St. Margaret’s on cliff, near the light-houfes, I faw in tv/o places a great num¬ ber of little ttimuliy of unequal bulk, clofe by one another ; and the like I found frequently about Barham downs, and between Hardres-f* and Chil- ham, and other places. I know not that fuch have ever been taken notice of: the people fay they were burying-places of the Danes ; probably digging into them might give us fome fatisfa6lion. I believe them Celtic, becaufe I faw many forts of them, and fuch as appear on Salilbury plain. Dover is a moft romantic fituation: it is a great valley, and the only one Dubris about this coaft where water is admitted inwards of the cliff, here very high j and a running brook difeharges itfelf into the fea :|j the water for¬ merly came a good way higher up, and made a large port; and they have found anchors above the town. The Roman city oi Dubris was to thexAB. fouth of the river: the Watling-ftreet enters it at Bigin gate, coming very XXXVIII. ftrait from Canterbury over Barham down, where it is very perfe6f :§ but- tins: t At Hardres place, the feat of Sir William Hardres, lay king Henry VIII. when go¬ ing upon his expedition at Boloign : he left his picture here, and an old dagger, very broad, and about as long as a Koman fword : the handle is of fdver gilt and enamelled, with mottos on it. The old gates of this feat were the gates of Boloign, brought thence at that fiege by Sir William’s anceftor, who accompanied the king. II By St. Margaret’s are many natural cavities in the chalk cliffs, and an admirable large fpring arifing from the beach with great force when the tide is out. § 'I o Dover from Canterbury the Watling-ftreet is ftill the common way : it is left intire over Barham downs, with a high ridge ftrait pointing to Canterbury cathedral tower; as foon as it enters the downs it traverfes a group of Celtic barrows, then leaves a fmall camp of C$far’s; further on it has been bafely incloled through two fields, and levelled wdth ploughing : then it paffes by a great lingle barrow, whereon flood the mdl, which is now removed higher up : then it afeends the hill to a hedge corner, where are three barrows, a great one between two little ones, all inclofed with a double fqiiare intrenchment of no gieat bulk: I fancy them Roman, becaufe paiallel to, and clofe by, the Roman road : the great barrow has a cavity at top, and an entrance eaftward ; whether cafually, or with defign, 1 know not. At Lyddon tlie Watimg- ftreet falls into that noble valley of Dover, made of two huge ridges of chalk, w'hich divide themfelves TAB. XXXIX. XL. 2d Vol. Dover Castle. ting clire( 5 ily upon the great tower of the cathedral, it bears a little more^ northerly than north-weft. This city was an oblong fquare, and fome of the walls are left: the churches are of a very antique make that ot St. Martin is collegiate, founded by Wightred king of Kent j it is a venerable ruin : the eaft end feerns to have terminated in three femi-circular works : it was built in form of a crofs, as to its main body. Much remains of the priory, now a farm-houfe. The maifon dieu over-againft it is become a ftore-houfe : here the knights Hofpitallers or Templars lodged, coming into, or going out of, the kingdom. The piers that form the haven, or large bafon, are coftly and great works: above is a fort with four baftions of modern date. The broad beach which lies at the mouth of this great valley, and was the harbour in Caefar’s time, is very delightful; it is no little part of the diverfion, in walking there, to obferve the odd produce of the ocean thrown up under your feet, and the fea-plants that grow there; the umhelli^ fvar-jipesy many curious foftils and ftiells; the ermgo, fea-lungs, fea-weedy or ood as called, &c. One long ftreet here is named Snare-gate, from the moft tremendous rocks of chalk hanging diredlly over the houfes ; as Cnarfborough in Yorkfliire, fays Mr. Camden, p. 715. The caftle is the ftrongeft place in the world, of old fortification ; it takes up thirty acres of ground: it is an amazing congeries of wails, ditches, arches, embattlements, mounts, and all imaginable contrivances to render it impregnable after the old mode: but with higheft regret I beheld this moft noble and memorable fortrefs, once thought the key of Britain, and that has divers times had the honour to fave the kingdom from con- queft and flavery, now become a common prey to the people that belong to it: in the late wars with France they kept 1500 prifoners in the great caftle; but within this twelvemonth they have carried av/ay the timbers and floors, difabling it even for that ufe. Thus much I think out of gratitude is its due; let it ftand a monument of antiquity, or fink llowly by its owni ruin. The brafs gun called Queen Elizabeth’s Pocket-piftol is a great curiofity, twenty-two foot long: it requires fifteen pound of powder, and carries a ball feven miles (as the gunner told me;) it is excellently well wTought. I faw two very old keys, and a brafs horn, which feem to be the enfigns of authority belonging to the conftable of the caftle, or lord warden of the cinque ports. One part of the fortifications confifts of a large circular work, in which ftands the old church, faid to have been built by Lucius, an ancient king of the Britons, and firft chriftian. Bifhop. Stillingfleet thinks he is no romantic perfon, but reigned in Kent and Suf- fex : however that be, I believe this church is as ancient as the time aftigned him. There is not much doubt to be made, that upon this hill was a cajiriim of the Romans, like that at Richborough, to guard this haven. It is fomewhat furprizing that our Saxon anceftors fhould take great pains to demolifti Roman works, though they wanted fuch in the fame places* and were forced to build them again. I look upon it as an argument that they had no thoughts of conquering the ifland at firft, and deitroyed thefe bulwarks, that fuch might not hinder their depredations; but efpying the nakednefs of the land, thoroughly evacuated of its youth and men of arms by the Romans, they found a conqueft pradlicabie: then were they obliged thenifelves into lelTer valleys, dropping into the great one at regular dillances, as the little leaves of plants meet at the main flem : this valley, when viewed from the end, looks like a landfcape on feenes leffening, according to perfpedfive, to Dover, between the two Phari and the lea at the end, inclofed between them. I’he ftreet Hides ahnig the northern declivity, croftes the rivulet w'hich wanders through the midft of the valley at Buckland, fo to Biggin gate, where is its termination, by the fide of the old port, having now run from Chefter about 250 miles. Many barrows on the lides of thofe hills. The Pro[pect of DOVPR ^ Oct " „®i> s , ..' B t '.'■ .' '3 ^'’35^’' 4: S<'Si„.". ■. '#;■^.: v' «st.- iA*M^ 3:4 . ^:^tf.^■3f-v;3:S!'; ^ .• '-■'K' .^';fe?4333''- ''-'■ ,m:3i',;333;.: rMM- ' '■i:,:\\,‘'<^ •' I . .kAyh , I'l «i.\ ' . ' w A :-3-c ■'T*:- '''>^1 j T'/ • Ii' • ’.. • c//r27^ nuMj: ‘ ^ P7//i/ ^v ^/ j ^ j ?('2 ^ :P7?/u.m7^/r/^7 p?/^ • Q-f/ ««v ' .•/, ;■( C. 5 J « J ! 1 i - SAXOX.LC //- . 7 ^/' IxiiflitoviTo er ADmcifsimo Jolii Har^ ie TVoffiu-gT iain "Idl/uLi/ii hd/ic idec-et IT. /.'^tidlej/ 1 i. +7 I c'IiiiooTa[)liy^ 5ec-tion of the HoMAlsr PH ATAO S //? Dovei* 0 :^ 1 /-/^ Taptilam Ai’cRiteofoiuram D-tio. .Ja coIioTliornliil P. qiiifi, adKeinPicforiam Bri'vieiiti. JloQio. D.D. //. '\7iu/ieA’i/. ^hthr/,// ,/// ■ s a; V/ • / • 1 ?- £ Kirkii /'■ 129 ITER V. obliged to repair thefe caftles. The church we are fpeaking of was built, in the firft times of chriftianity, out of part of the Roman ruins, whence there are huge quantities of Roman bricks laid into the work: the arches are intirely turned with them ; the corners and many parts, both within and without, are built up therewith ; and the remainder is of ftone originally cut by the Romans: it is in form of a crofs, and has a fquare tower in the middle. I have reprefented the drawing of it in plate 48. The ftone windows this church are of later date than the building ; they have been put in long ftnee: but the greateft curiofity here is the Pharos^ or Roman watch-tower, Romnr>. ftanding at the weft end of the church: notwithftanding it is fo much P^^ros disfigured by new daubing with mortar, cafing and mending, I difeovered its primary intention the firft minute I faw it j and fent the three prints of it, which I here prefent the reader, to monfieur Montfaucon, at the in- ftances of my moft honoured lord, the archbifliop of Canterbury. I was in hopes they would have been more ufeful to that celebrated author; for therein at leaft he might have found, that the building which he firft took for a Pharos, and whereof he gives us four views, is only the tower of the church we were talking of. The defeription of this curious work, which I believe the moft perfedf of any left, in fhort is thus. In the 47th plate we have fhown the ground-plot upon wdiich it is formed, and a fedlion of the wwk; whence we may readily obferve that the defign is fimpie, but admirably contrived for its ufe and purpofe: the bafe is odfagonal without, within a fquare; but the fides of the fquare and odtagon are equal, viz. fifteen Roman feet, which reduces the wail to the thicknefs of ten feet. In this manner it was carried up to the top, which was much higher than at prefent j but it retires inward continually from all fides, with much the fame proportion as an Egyptian obelus. Upon four of thefe fides there are windows narrows handfomely turned with a femi-circular arch of Roman brick fix foot high, fo that the outfide of it appears as in our 46th plate- The door to it is on the eaft fide, about TAB. fix foot wide, very well turned over head, with an arch made of a courfe of Roman brick and ftone alternately, fourteen foot high. All the ftones of this work are of a narrow fcantling; and the manner of the compofure, throughout, is perfedtly the fame with that lately deferibed at Richborough caftle: there are firft two courfes of this brick, which is level with the bottom of the windows j then feven courfes of hewn ftone, which mount up to the top of the windows then tv/o courfes of brick, feven of ftone alter¬ nately, to the top; every window by this means reaching to a ftage or ftory. There are five of thefe ftages left: the windows are vifible enough to a difeerning eye, though fome be ftopt up, others covered over, others have modern church-like windows of ftone put in. I fuppofe the infide was intirely filled up with a ftair-cafe: the height of what is left is forty foot; I believe there was twenty foot more originally; and the whole number of windows on a fide was eight. This building was made ufe of as a fteeple, and had a pleafant ring of bells in it, which Sir George Rook procured to be carried away to Portfmouth. Since then the office of the ordnance, under pretext of favingnefs, have taken av.^ay the lead that covered it, and left this rare piece of art and mafonry to ftruggle with the lea, air and wea¬ ther. Mr. Degg gave me a coin of Dioclelian, found here. The Erping- hams arms are patched up againft one fide of the Pharos, being two bars and a canton ; fo that I fuppofe it was repaired in Henry the Fifth’s time, lord Erpingham then warden of Dover caftle. In the Roman caftle here the L 1 Tungrican ITER V. Tiingricaii foldiers had their ftation. I have heard there is another fuch Fharos at St. Andrew’s in Scotland.-j'- On the other high cliff oppofite to this, beyond the town, has been another Pharos: Ibme part of the bottom part of it is ftill left, called The Devil’s Drop, from the ftrength of the mortar: others call it Bre- donffone. Here the new conftable of the caftle is fworn. If we confider the ancient date of Dover, we muff imagine that the little river ran di¬ rectly into the fea, and left a harbour clofe to the walls of the town 5 but in procefs of time, as the fea threw up that vaft beach which lies between the town and it, the river was forced by an oblique paffage to creep along the hrore under the fouthern cliff, and there vent itfelf Vv^here now is the harbour. This is what Nature praclifes in the microcofm in innumerable inftances, as the pali'age of the gall and pancreatic juice into the inteftines, in the duH of the urine from the ureters into the bladder, of the chyle into the torrent of the blood, inhnuating themfelves for fome fpace between the membranes. And this caution may be of fervice in forming harbours ; as in that coftly work of the French king’s before Dunkirk, where two banks or piers projedled for half a mile through the fands diredtly, which ought rather to have gone downwards a little towards the fall of the tide. The cliffs here are of folid chalk to the very bottom, full of the blackeft flints ; and thcfe at Calais feem perfeHly like them j and no doubt a long vein of chalk is continued from one to the other under the fea, and perhaps through many countries : but that thefe two places were ever contiguous,. or joined by an ifthmus, is chimerical. Though the mariners have much mathematics on board, and in all their tackle and machinery, yet here I had occafion of obferving a grofs error, that has not been thought on, in the fliape of their oars ; where the extre¬ mity of that fan-like part, which oppofes the water in rowing, is broadeft. Now this is quite contrary to Nature’s method, who is the beft geome¬ trician in like cafes: in the fliape of a Angle feather, or in the wings of birds, the extremity is always pointed, and the broadeft part is neareft the joint where the power lies, analogous to the fulcrum of leavers therefore is drawn off to a narrower fcantling, as the part recedes from it, and the effedf of the moving force: thus it is even in the wings of butterflies, and all other infedls, as well as birds; and fo in the water-beetles that row with oars. Though the broad part refifts the water more as farther diftant from the fulcrum^ yet it requires more proportionable ftrength ; and in my judgment, therefore, oars ought to be made quite the contrary way, and drawn off into a point, the broadeft part neareft the hand ; and I doubt not but equal ftrength will then out-row the other, creteris paribus,^ Beyond Dover fouthward the cliff is exceedingly high to Folkftone. .In the road two great Roman barrows, which will be eaten away in a few years by the fea. Here this larger track of cliff ends, as to the ocean, and flaunts off weftward towards Wye in a long ledge very fteep all the way to the weft. The whole county of Kent confifts of three or four of thefe parcels, lying parallel, and running nearly north and fouth: they rife gently from the eaft as a reclining plain, and then end fuddenly on the weftern fide with a quick defcent: at bottom begins another fuch plain, and it ends in like manner after it has gone its proper diftance, to be alike fucceeded, as we faid before. Beyond this we are upon, fouthward is a t Such a Roman Pharos at Damiata in Egypt, the view of it in Le Brun, plate 70. letter A. * 1 fuppofe likewife that the fails of fliips ought to be narrower at top, where they are fciftened to the yard’s arm, broader at bottom, like a cloke; and fo they are ordinarily made in feme iTieafure. a leffer ledge of high ground Tandy and rocky, but good land, efpecially in the valleys, and full of wood. This is terminated by Romney marfh, fuch another country as our Lincoinfhire Holland. To the right of us is Eleham, feated in a pleafant concavity: there has been a religious houfe. Upon one end of our upper chalk-hills, near Folkftone, is a camp called Caftle hill. Now defcending, Folkftone-f-offers itfelf, ftill ftanding on a cliff, but Lapis not fo high as the former, and of a rocky compofure, the other being chalk : it was anciently called Flojiane^ a leffer rock, or cliff of flone; fo y that it probably was the lapis tituli of the Romans. Here is a copious XCVUI. fpring runs through the town. Near the church, upon the fea fide, is a fquare plain, like that I obferved at Burgh in Lincolnfliire, and was of the fame ufe. I faw two pieces of old wall hanging over the terrible cliff, feemingly of Roman work: here are fome old guns, one of iron of a very odd caff, no doubt as old as Henry the Eighth’s time. Many Roman coins have been found here. A nunnery was built by Eanfwide, a religious daughter of Eadbald king of Kent. I paffed by Sandgate caftle, another of thofe built by Henry VIII. in a little valley where the ftiore is plain : then we enter upon the beach. Here are many fprings which come done from the higher ground, and fink immediately into this beach, rendering it a little boggy: this I thought very odd. You ride through a wood of fea-poppy, which is a fine variety in nature, cafting all the numerous feeds into a long pod, inftead of the common globular head : the leaves look hoary, like fea-ragwort, and are finely crifped; the flowers of a moft delicate yellow, taken notice of by the poet, Ore jloridulo nitens Alba parthenice velut Luteumve papaver. Catull. Hythe ftands on the edge of this leffer ridge, but the marfh has intercepted Hythe. it from the fea. They talk much of their charnel-houfe full of human bones, faid to have been the maffacred Danes ; but I thought it not worth going to fee, nor believed their report of it. They fay this has been a great city, and reached as far as Weft Hythe, where is an old ruinous chapel: they mean undoubtedly the city of Lemanis. Here were two ho- fpitals, St. Bartholomew’s, and St. Leonard’s. I vifited Saltwood caftle, in hopes to find fomewhat Roman, as is reported: it is a very ftrong feat of the archbifliop’s : the outer wall has towers and battlements, and a deep ditch: within, and on one fide, ftands the main body of the place : two great and high towers at the gate of this, over which are the founder’s arms, archbifliop Courtney, in two efcutch- eons j the firft impaled with thofe of the fee j the other plain, a label over three plates. This inner work has a ftrongcr and higher wall, with a broad embattled parapet at top : within is a court, but the lodgings are all demoliflied: the floor of the ruinous chapel is ftrongly vaulted: in the middle of the court is a large fquare well, which is the only thing I faw that looked like Roman. It is faid that hereabouts anchors are dug up ; which, if true, is not owing to the fea’s coming fo high, as the vulgar think, for that is impoffible j but to an iron forge of the Romans, con¬ veniently placed, where fo much wood grows, fo near the fea, and fo many ports. They fay too that Roman coins are found at Newington, not far off here. A t At Folkftone the famous Dr. Harvey was born, ob. 1657. Lemanis Portus. TAB. XCIX. TAB. LVilL A little way further, at the end of the Stane-ftreet,* the Roman road from Canterbury ; and at a proper diftance from thence is the port of Lemanis. I am farprized that fome KentiHi antiquaries fnould, by pre¬ tended corredlions of the Itinerary, fend it farther off to the fouthern coafts. As foon as I came to Limne church, looking from the brow of the hill to the fubjacent marilies, I defcried the tattered Roman walls, fituate on this fouthern decline, aimofl: at the bottom. One would imagine the name came from the Stone-Jlreet ; for fuch it literally fignilies, via lapidea : this is a folid rock of ffone laid out in a ftrait line between here and Canterbury. Thus in Yorkiliire another Roman road is called Ltming-lane^ from its llony compofure. Lhe fignifies a way in Britifh 5 maen, a ffone. Its prefent appellation of Stiidfal caftle gives occafion to fome uncouth etymo¬ logies : without any difficulty I think it derived from ficed-wealU the fea- llrore, in Saxon; fo that it fignifies no more than cajirum litioreum. This fine remnant of Roman work, and which was the garrifon of the Turna- cenfian band, hangs as it were upon the fide of the hill; for it is pretty ffeep in defcent; the walls include about twelve acres of ground, in form fomewhat fquarifli, without any ditch : a pretty brook, arifing from the rock weft of the church, runs for fome fpace on the eaft fide of the wall; then paffes through it, and fo along its low^ermoft edge by the farm-houfe at bottom. The compofition of the wall is fimilar to that of Richborough; but inftead of hewn ffone and regular courfes, as there, the interval between the three layers of Roman brick is made of rag-ftone: the brick too is of the fame wdiitilh kind, but remarkably thin. I fuppofe the clay fhrank much in burning. This interval of ffone is four feet of Roman ftandard; the walls are twelve foot thick, and have fome round holes at equal fpaces, that run quite through, as w^e obferved at Sorbiodimum and Verolaniu 77 i ; per¬ haps to let the air in for drying the wall, being of fo great a thicknefs. J-Jere are feveral of the circular, or rather elliptic buttments, as thick as the wall, like thofe at the caftle of Garionenum^ near Yarmouth in Norfolk, in plate 58. which my wmrthy and learned friend Mr. Hare gave me from his own menfuration. It is a piece of mafonry, I muff own, unaccountable to me: they are like round towers or baftions, but folid ; and fome fcarce join to the wall at the fides, but go quite through to the infide. The circuit of this wall is manifeft enough on three fides, but that fouthward is levelled to the ground : every wffiere elfe, where not ftanding, it lies fideways, flat, clofe by, in prodigious parcels ; or where ftanding, cracked through the whole folid thicknefs, as if Time was in a merry humour, and ruined it in fport; but I believe it is theeffedt of defign and much labour, as I faid of Richborough : probably the Saxons or Danes thus difmantled it, to render it ufelefs againff their incurfions. Where this wall is ftanding, it is ten foot high or more, made with excellent cement: on the eaftern fide is fuch another gate, formed by the return of the wall, as at the place laft mentioned. Geo. Hunt, an old man, living in the farm-houfe, told me he * llie feat of Oftenhanger, through the park whereof the Stone-ftreet runs to Limne, was a noble building : they fold it lately for looo pounds to a mafon, who pulled it all down. An mh rij)tion of the chapel there is now made a ftone Uep in the houfe of Mr. Smith of Stanford ; thus copied by Mr. Godfrey : IVIL V. ET. XX A LINCARNATION NOSTRE CHRIST ET LE XII. ANNE DV TRES IIAULT ET TRES SANT ET TRES EXCELLENT PRINCE NOSTRE ET ROY H¥rY VIII A LE HONEVR DV DIEV ET DE LA GLORIEUSE VIERGE MARIE FVT FAICTE ET ACHEVEE CESTE CHAPELLE PAR MESSIRE EDOVARD POYNINGS CHEVALIER DE LA NOBLE ORDRE DV GARTIER ET CONTRE ROYLER DE LA MASON DV ROY CVY DIEV DDINT SA GRACE ET BONNE VIE ET LONGVE ET PARADIS A LA TIN AMEN. GARI0NE]N'\"M 4 ^ »7 KOO - 1 .^^ Henrico Tlare^rm.CrARIONEN^V^JyL lira inaiiiT cTimeiiitna conLecrat s ITER V. he has found coins here: he fays, once the fea-bank broke, and his houfe with all the adjacent marfhes was floated : for the level of the ocean is higher than this place j but it has fenced itfelf out by raifing the ground continually near the Ihore, as it does in other like maiihes. Whether the fea reached this lower wall, even in the time of the Romans, I cannot determine j for I do not believe this was the very port, but the caftle belonging to it: that, I rather think, was fomewhat more eaftward, about Weft Hithe ; and there, the town that belonged to it: for they find old foundations frequently under the fide of the hill, laid in ftrong terrace mortar. The rev. Mr. Bagnal, mini- fter of the place, informs me, that the field, of about fixteen acres of ground, adjoining to the church-yard of Limne, is to this day called the Northern town : nor do they know that it ever had any other name ; v/hich intimates that the Roman tov/n was thereabouts, lying upon the Hope of the hill, as the caftle does, and to the eaft of it. This port is now called Ship-way, where the limenarcha^ or lord warden of the cinque ports, was anciently fwoi’ii j where their courts were kept, and all the pleas relating to thefe ports: fince the decay thereof, that ceremony is transferred to Dover. This Ship-way too denominates the lathe^ or divifion of the country. Leland fays, the people of Limne had an horn and mace, remaining enfigns of their authority. Thus have we condudfed our journey, for the fpace of 500 miles, all upon Roman roads, to thefe three famous ports on the eaftern ihore, where commonly the great Roman emperors and generals landed from the con¬ tinent ; and in which we have run over fuch notices as occurred to us in thirty-five Roman ftaticns, many camps, and other things of higheft anti¬ quity. The feafon of the year for expeditions being far I'pent, it is time to releafe your lordlhip’s patience, and retire into harbour, concluding wdth the great Roman wit, in his poetical voyage. Lemanis lo?tga fnis chartaque, viceqite. 10 Odlob. 1722. M m ITER DUMNON I ENSE. VI. Ipfe locis capitur patriis & Jingula Icetus Exquiritque, auditque ‘virum monumenta priorum. Virg. ro my Lord PEMBROKE. I Have fometimes in travelling been apt, within my own mind, to make a comparifon between the excellence of the ftudy of Philofophy, and that commonly called Antiquity, that is, ancient hiltory. The beauties and the advantage of natural inquiries I cannot but be highly fenlible of; yet I muft needs give the preference to the latter,, as it more nearly con¬ cerns the rational part of the creation, for whom the whole was made: it is a comment upon the wonderful volumes of divine wifdom, and the condudl of providence in the management of its fupreme workmanlhip. God has given us indeed a large manufcript of his power, and other adorable attributes, in his wide-extended produdls, the furniture of the world; but in man, a more correct epitome of himfelf; a delegated im¬ material particle of his fpirituality, a felf-moving principle of free agency, from the very fountain of all exiftence. As he is the great malter-wheel and primum movens ; fo we are the fubordinate executors of his mighty ])urpofes, by his direftion and fuperintendence carrying on the regular government and unfeen operations thereof. Whoever declaims againft this, ought to be looked upon as one of a poor, narrow way of thinking, and who does not deferve fo much as that noble faculty of the foul, reminifcence or memory, which is the fame to a fingle man, as ancient hiftory is to the whole community: fuch a one no more claims the name of a fcholar, than he that knows but the letters of the Alphabet, or whofe ftudy confifts only in Gazettes. It is the knowledge of antiquity that can give us a maturity in judgement, either in perfons or things; and how unfit fuch a one is, that is delfitute of it, in the executing the great offices of life, I need not inculcate. But nothing I can fay in favour of this fubjeft, can be fo great a pane¬ gyric to it, as your lordfhip’s illuftrious name prefixed. The glorious ardour for this kind of learning, that kindled in your younger years, and that through a long cultivation of it has produced a boundlefs extent of knowledge, with the deepeft penetration, the flrongefl judgement, the fire of the foul, and all Tublimefl: qualities which the world admires in your lordfhip; bears down all oppofition to the ftudy of antiquities, wherein you prefide moft worthily; wherein no one dares to be rival, or hopes to be equal. We fee the fruits of it in the beft-chofen library of ancient authors, in the ITER VI. 135 the beft collection of moft ancient coins, ftatues, bufto’s, and learned marbles, which the world can fhow. You, my lord, by treading in the jfteps of the great Arundel, have brought old arts, Greece and Rome, nay Apollo and all his Mufes, to Great Britain : Wilton is become tramontane Italy. Every part of learning is your lordfhip’s province, and fure of your pro¬ tection. But I have a particular happinefs in laying before you the fol¬ lowing account of this fummer’s journey, becaufe the greateft part of it was by your own direction, and as excurlions I made whilft at your lord¬ fhip’s moft delightful feat at Wilton. I lhall begin with what I obferved in my tour about it, and proceed to my more weftern perambulation through a country pregnant of antiquities, and the greateft curiofities in the world. The Belga^ the ancient inhabitants of this country, were a brave and warlike people, when on their original continent; and we have no reafon to think, after tranfplantation on the Britifh foil, they abated aught of their courage and valour, natural to its inhabitants. Thefe were one of thofe powerful nations, whofe conqueft gave opportunity to the emperor Vefpalian highly to fignalize his conduCt when he firft made a figure in arms. Hence it is that we find fo many camps hereabouts, from the fea fide to the midland parts; many of which were made by him, and others by his undaunted oppofers. The road from Wilton to Shaftesbury, called the Ten-mile Courfe, is a fine ridge of downs, continued upon the fouthern bank of the river Nader, with a I'weet profpeCl to the right and left, all the way, over the towns and the country on both fides : a traveller is highly indebted to your lordfhip for adding to his pleafure and advantage, in reviving the Roman method of placing a numbered ftone at every mile, and the living index of a tree to make it more obfervable; which ought to be recommended as a laudable pattern to others: thus C. Gracchus planted a ftone at every mile, with the diftance infcribed, fays Plutarch; and thus Rutilius, Itinerar. II. Intervalla vitzfejjis prcejiare videtur ^ notat infcriptus millia crebra lapis. Between N° 5. and 6. is a pretty large camp, called Chifelbury, upon the northern brow of the hill: it is fingle ditched and of a roundifli form : ry. before the chief entrance is an half-moon, with two apertures for greater fecurity: there is a ditch indeed goes from it downward to the valley on both fides, but not to be regarded. This I imagine relates not to the camp; for I obferved the like acrofs the fame road in many places between little declivities, and feem to be boundaries and flieep-walks made fince, and belonging to particular parifhes. I fancy this name imparted from fome fhepherd’s cot, anciently ftanding hereabouts, in Saxon Ccfol. It feems to be a Roman camp, but of later date. At the end of this courfe, when you come to the great chalk-hill looking towards Shaftfbury, are three or four Celtic barrows, one long and large, pointing eaft and weft; in this hill is a quarry of fione, very full of lea-ftiells. Not far off, in the parifli of Tilbury, near Warder caftle, is a great intrenchment in a wood, which was probably a Britilli oppidum^ and near the river before men- V>v. oppidum. tioned. Returning, we fee upon the higheft eminence that overlooks Wilton, and the fertile valley at the union of the Nader and Willy, the famous King-barrow, as vulgarly called: it is a round tumulus^ of a moft ancient form, 136 ITER VI. form, fiat at top, and v/ithout any ditch. Your lordfiiip rightly judges it in fituation to be one of the higheft barrows in England, being, by exadt obfervation from the water-level and calculation, at leafi: four hundred foot above the furface of the ocean. This, queftionlefs, is a Ctltic tumulus: and the very name, inherent through long rev^olutions of time, indicates it to be the grave of a king of this country of the Belgce-, and that Wilton was his royal refidencc, which for goodnefs of air, of water and foil, joined with the moft delightful downs all around it, muff highly magnify his judgement in choice of a place fecond to none for all the conveniences and delicacies of life. If we refle6f a little upon the matter, it appears a fup- pofition far from improbability, that this is the very monument of Carvi¬ lius mentioned by Caefar, who, joining with the other kings along the country on the fea-fide from hence to Kent, attacked his fea-camp on the Rutupian fhore: and this was to make a diverfion to the great Roman general, prelfing hard upon Caffibelan ; for, as the late learned and faga- cious Mr. Baxter obferves in his GlolTary, where Ihould Carvilius live, but among the Carvilii P as Sego?jax^ one ot his confederates, among the Segon¬ tiaci ; that is, Segontium^ or Caerfegont, as the Britons call it; which is now Silchefier. And it feems to have been the fafliion of that time fpr kings to be denominated from the people or place they governed ; as CaJJibelan was in name and faht king of the Cafjii ; and many other inftances I might bring of like nature. Where then fliould Carvilius live, but at Carvilium-, now Wilton; or where be buried, but in the mold confpicuous place near his palace? and no other barrow competitor to leave any doubt or fcruple. It is natural to fuppofe that the very fpot where his refidence was, is the fame where king Edgar’s queen fpent the latter part of her life in a reli¬ gious houfe fhe built near your lordfhip’s feat, being a hard dry foil, gra¬ velly, and incompafi’ed with two fine rivers, which in early times added much to the fecurity of the place, and much fought for by the Britons. We took notice, when with particular pleafure we vifited his tumulus., and paid our refpedls to the illuftrious manes of the royal defundf, that, among other views of great diftance, we could fee Long-barrow beyond Stone¬ henge, and all the long ridge of Martinfal hill, St. Ann’s hill, and Runway- hill beyond that; upon which goes the great Wanfdike, which I take to be the northern boundary of the Belgic kingdom. I queftion not but one purpofe of this interment was to be in fight of the holy work, or temple, of Stonehenge. Here then may we conclude reft the allies of Carvilius, made immortal by Caefar for bravely defending his country ; now refting in the pofi'efiions of a fuccefibr, mafter of both their great qualities; who, when wielding the Britifli trident, in a fleet infinitely fuperior to Caefar’s, could afiert a more univerfal empire. In you, my lord, the memory of Carvilius flourifiies again, in your eminent love for your country’s honour, and in your care for preferving his monument, and adorning it with frefh verdure ; by planting four trees round its edge,-f' and introducing it as a termmus, in one of the vifto’s, to the admirable equeftrian fiatue of M. Au¬ relius, in the middle of the principal ftar of your park. Thus, according to ancient ufage, was the tumulus of Diomedes planted with the platanus brought from Afia for that purpofe; as Pliny informs us in book XII. cap. I. From t Afclepiades fays Boreas, a king of the Celts, planted an unknown tree on the tumulus of his daughter Cypan/Ja ; whence the name of it, and its funeral ufe. Trees planted on Protefi- iaus’s fepulchre, Pliny, XVI. 44. So an oak on Ulus’s tuinulus, ibid, fo on the tomb of Amycus king of the Bebrycians, i>id„ Chlori J771/J. L\7jt7'i777i 7777(^0 ClorendorL ^27^. 25 • 3 - 7 -^ '3- //Ywz TTarnliam lull -4.uj7 2 6 17^5 JlU Z/ ^ 137 ITER VI. From hence riding along the hare-warren and end of the park, we are entertained v/ith the landfcape of no lefs than five rivers, four retaining the old Britifli names : the villages on each fide of them are fo thick, that they feem to join and form long cities in woods. About the union of thefe rivers are three cities and three cathedrals within a triangle, whofe fides are lefs than three miles j Wilton, Old and New Sarum. The Nadre fignifies a fnake or adder, metaphorically drawn from its winding current; it rifes by the end of the Ten-mile couifc above delcribed, and pafies by a pleafant village belonging to your lordlhip, Chilmark, famous for its quar¬ ries j of a very good ftone, white, and that rifes in any dimenfions : there is now a fingle ftone, lying over the mouth of the quarry like an architrave, full fixty foot long, twelve foot thick, and, as the workmen have afiured me upon examination, perfedfly Vv^ithout flaw : fometimes here are found great petrified oyfter-fhells. The Willy rifes about Warminfter, taking in a little brock, tlie Dyver, palling under ground, runs byYarnbury, a vaft Yarnbury R oman camp, where feme think is Vefpafian’s name ; a great femi-circular work at the entrance : feveral Roman coins have been found here. Not far off is a ditch called Chiltern, which feems to be fome divifion of the hun¬ dreds. There is another camp on the other fide the Willy: then it runs by Grovely, a great w^ood of your lordfliip’s : it admits another ftream coming on the weft fide of Stonehenge from Orchefton, remarkable for a long kind of grafs, which without good proof I fhould fcruple relating, for it is com¬ monly twenty-five foot in length, much coveted by cattle; by Mr. Ray called gramefi caninum fupiniun longijjimum : he fays they ufe to fatten hogs with it. This Willy, that gives name to Wilton, paffes chiefly on the north fide of the town, makes the canal before the front of the houfe, and then joins the Nadre, coming on the fouth fide of the towm and through the gardens, at the end of the avenue. The Avon arifes from under the great ridge of hills that divides Wiltihire into north and fouth, crowned wdth the Wanfditch: it palfes fouthward through innumerable villages to , r o o AMsbuRY* Amblbury, the pagus Ambri famous for a monaftery built by one Ambrus, which the monks and fabulous writers have wrefted into Ambrojhury ; then for a celebrated nunnery of noble-women, great numbers of whom, againft the inftitution of Nature and Providence, were here veiled : it is now the feat of my lord Charlton, built by Inigo Jones, and defervedly to be ad¬ mired : fome new works are added to it under the diredfion of my lord Burlington, polfeffor of his fpirit, and a noble colledfion of his defigns. The famous old city of Sorbiodunum may be faid to ftand upon this river : it meets with the other two juft before it pafies through Saliibury, and beyond it receives the Bourn, which has dropped its proper name: but I guefs it to have been Colin or Colinity, the fame as Chin ; for at its fountain-head is Colinburn : all thefe rivers are called bur?is, Willyhurn^ Adderburiiy &c. below Salifbury enters another, I fuppofe called Ebbejburn. From Harn- ham hill we have a view of both Sarums : the old city, with its high-crefted^vy’ji triple fortifications, threatens all the circumjacent country : the new juftly boafts of its lofty fpire, as wonderful for the flendernefs of its foundation, as its great height, being 450 foot, making one of the vifto’s to the front of Wilton-houfe. To the eaft is Clarendon, which your lordfiiip firft ob-C hlori- ferved, from old writings, ought to be called Clorendim^ from the famous ^^num. Roman camp half a mile off the park near the Roman road : tliis v/as made xcf ‘ or repaired by Conftantius Chlorus, father of Conftantine the Great; it was he that flew Alledlus, after he had bafely murdered the valiant Caraufius. Conftantius lived at the neighbouring Sorbiodunum: he was of Britifli N n extradt. 13 ITER extra6l, the hufl^and of Helena, a famous Britifh princefs. This camp therefore, properly written, is Chloridumm, being a beautiful fortification of a round form upon a dry chalk hill; within is a circular ditch, having two entrances anfwering to the entrances of the camp, and leaving a large fpace betv/een it and the vallmn. I fuppofe this ditch was a Idler camp before, inlarged by Chlorus, for keeping his legions as in a fummer-camp before the city: this they did by carrying away all the earth of the old ‘valliim to the new; for it is evident the prefent rampart is of much larger TxVB. IX. quantity than could be taken out of the fubjacent ditch. Chlorendon park is a fweet and beautiful place: here king John built him a palace, where feveral Parliaments have been held : part of the building is frill left, though they have been pulling it down many years: it is chiefly of flint, and was a large place upon the fide of a hill, but no way fortified. This palace of king John anfwers diredlly to the front vifto of Wilton houfe over the length of the great canal, and is called the King’s Manor : they fay here is a fiibterraneous pafiage to the Queen’s Manor. Between the camp and the park runs a Roman road, which has not been taken notice of, from Sorbiodu- num to Winchefl'er full eafl: and wefl. As we go from Wilton to Stonehenge, between Grovely wood and \¥oodford runs a ditch acrofs the plain, with a high rampart fouthward: the ditch is broad, and goes eafl: and weft. I take it to be one of the boun¬ daries of theBe/^tg', which I call the third : the reafon will hereafter appean On the eait fide of the Avon, by Great Doroford, is a very large camp covering the whole top of a hill, of no determinate figure, as humouring the height it ftands on : it is made intirely without any ditch, the earth being heaped up very fleep in the nature of a parapet, vriien dug av/ay level ' at the bottom. I doubt not but this was a camp of the Britons, and per- x.oip urn. oppidum^ where they retired at nig’nt from the pafliurage upon the river, with their cattle; wfithin it are many little banks, carried fcrait and meeting one another at right angles, fquare, oblong parallels and fome oblique, as the meres and divifions between ploughed lands j yet it feems never to have been ploughed : and there is likewife a fmall fquarifh work intrenched, no bigger than a large tent : thefe to me feem the diftinftions and divifions for the feveral quarters and lodgements of the people withinj for I have, upon the downs in Dorfetfhire, often remarked the like, of too fmall a com])afs to be ploughed fields. This camp has an afpedt very old 5 the prominent part of the rampart in niany places quite confumed by time, though the fteep remains perfedi:; one being the natural earth, the other fadfitious: it certainly has fo much of the manner of Vefpafian’s camp, as induces one to think it an imitation. I know not whether we ought to derive the name of it from the Britifli Og-., figiiifying the hurdles and pens they fence their cattle in v/ith, which perhaps Rood upon thofe meres, or little banks, to diftingififh every man’s property. Vefpafian’s camp is wdthin fight of it, a little higher up the river, and on the other fide : it is a famous camp, properly and by univerfal confent attributed to him, called the Walls 3 w^ell chofe, being a high piece of ground at a flexure of the river, which clofes in an end and a fide of it: the other fide has a broad and very deep valley along it, and at the other end is the entrance: the whole hangs over the town of Amfoury: the manner of this camp too confifts moftly in a rampire, but much more operofe than that lafl; men¬ tioned ; the form oblong : the road to the town goes quite through it: it is high in the middle, and has a barrow inciofed, but partly level j this I fuppofe originally Celtic, on account of its vicinity to Stonehenge, there¬ fore Walls. Veipaliaa’s camp. of Kin^ Johns Palace at Clarendon Ang-.s.i/^g. \ f \ • < ♦ 'S it m i' & ./■ i i i / - ■ . >■ 55 ' ■»', ..*■ . #•. ^: .. ■ •'iii I r ' 4 ' .-} / £ Martinsal hilL, a Roman. Camp 6 Inly 17-25. 139 ITER VI. fore elder than the camp. The eaft fide of Vefpafian’s camp is fufficiently guarded by the precipice of the river. Further northwards, in the road from Ambfbury to Marlborough, is the remain of another round camp, extremely old, and almoft obliterated : this is between CoIIinburn and Bur- Cheselbu- RY. inches. North of thefe is Martinfal hill, a vaft ftationary Roman camp, upon high hill fteep to the eaft, which is feldom obfervable. I meafttred it qtiitc round, in company with lord Hertford and lord Winchelfea : it is confpicu- Ro. catnp. cus at a great diftance, and within fight of all the camps in the country. I take it to have been made when the Romans were thoroughly polfeflbrs XLIV. of the kingdom, and one of their chief fortreffes, whence they might give or receive hgnals all around, in cafe of diftrefs, by fire or fmoke. On two fides the precipice is dreadfully fteep. Lord Winchelfea has a brafs Alexan¬ der Severus found here; on the reverfe, ^Jupiter fulminans, with PM. TR. P. COS. On the weft fide, upon the top or the hill, without the camp is a round pit full of good fpring vv^atei', alv/ays to the brim but never over¬ flowing in the drieft fummers; which at thofe feafons is of greateft fer- vice to the country round, and thoufands of cattle are driven every day from a confiderable diftance to drink there. I am told there is another fuch upon the top of Chute hill, fouth eaft from hence, very high, and no water within fome miles of it. So provident has Nature been in fubliming, by fome unknown powers, the liquid element to thefe barren heights, that every part of her works flrould not be without its graces and ufe. The profpedl t from Martinfal muft needs be exceeding fine. Saliibury fteeple, twenty miles off, bears fouth-weft and by weft: the port of this campis north-eaft. I take the name of this hill to come from the merriments among the nor- Martina- thern people, C2L\\tdi Martinalia, or drinking healths to the memory of St. Martin, pradfifed by our Saxon and Danifh anceftors. I doubt not but upon St. Martin’s day, or Martinmafs, all the young people in the neigh¬ bourhood alfembled here,-f- as they do now upon the adjacent St. Ann’s hill upon i St. Ann’s day. The true word 1% Marthfeil, heyl fignifying health ; and the Germans call a bowl, or drinking-veffel, fchale : likewife Jjali in the Saxon fignifies holy ; whence our Ijallbw--, and the JVafseyl bowl at Chriftmafs, full of fpiced ale, which they carry about, finging of carols in the ftreets. Monfieur Keyfler fpeaks of thefe matters largely in his Antiquitates Septentrionales, p. 358. and that the German gilds, or focieties, M'-ere obliged to keep drinking feftivals to St. Mary, St. Martin, St. Nicholas, &c. p. 487. he fays, at a village in tra.Au Aibind-, the married v/omen upon St. Martin’s day pay 4d. to the queftor: and the fpring upon this hill ftlll further favoured their ceremonies. So beneficial a bafon in heathen times merited divine honours ; and the people, not willing to part with a holy-day, blended their rites into chriftian. The Enc -ifti took the onnortunity of the + Sr. Martin’s day, in f’ne Norway clogs, is marked with a goofe ; for on tliat day they always feafted with a roafled goofe: they fay St. Martin, being eLfted to a biihoprick, hid himfelf, but was difeovered by that animal. ^V’e liave nanslerred the ceremony to Micb.ael- mas. Sumner’s gloffary, voce yc-bcoppcipe, mentions the eJa of tlis northern people, meaning fuch a religious ceremony as we Irave been fpeaking of : and, if one conUiits Skinner’s Eiymolugicun for the derivation of our word aU, we mar be apt to fulpedl it is srofl reafcnable to refer it to this cuftom, from the incongruity of Ills. bich, upon a rifing ground, feemingly Bntifli: and on the weft fide of the river Avon, over-againft it, is another, called too Chefelbury, and faid to have a pratoriujn in it. Thefe camps fo contiguous, with a river betweeti, feem ftill remains of Vefpafian’s conquefts ; and that he got the country by 140 E E VI. the (lay after this great feftival of St. Martin, much obferverl by the Danes, to commit that univerfal maffacre upon them drunken, which totally ex¬ tirpated them. This was anno ico2, upon the 13th of November, the feall day of St. Brittius, fays Chron. Joann. Alb. Petriburg. on Hock Tuef- day, which Spelman fays had its denomination thence. In the lieicis about Chute are bones dug up very plentifully, in a place called Blood-held efpecially : they likewife found there a ftone coffin with a ikeleton inclofed, and an arrow or fpear-head of brafs, as defcribed to me : there was a horfe found buried about three yards from the body. Whether this was Roman or Bfitiffi, I cannot affirm : I am inclinable to think the latter : but it feems that a battle was fought here between them. Barbury. Pull iiorth from hence, upon the Barbury hills, the next ridge overlook- Ro. ca?)ip. north part of Wiltlliire, is another camp, called Barbury, in the parilh of Ogburn St. George. The noble lords late mentioned alhfted in m^eafuring it: it is double ditched quite round, the inner very deep, and rampart high, of a circular form j an entrance upon the eaft, and another on the well diameter, which is 2000 Roman foot long: at the well the in- moff ram])ire retires inwards a little, to make a port with jambs: eaflward the outer ditch turns round with a femi-circular fweep, leaving two palfages through it obliquely to the main entrance, like our modern half-moons : both thefe methods 1 have often feen praftifed.-f- This mighty camp Rands on one of the welhern eminences of this ridge, running ealt and weft ; very fteep to the north and weft, feparating the high ground or downs from the fertile country below, which belonged to the Dobuni, and lies under the eye like a map, as far as the Welffi hills beyond the Severn j whofe lovely pro- fpedf would naturally animate the Britons in its defence, as the Romans in its conqueft: it is indeed a line fcene of woods, towns, paftures, rivers and Badbury. valleys. A little beyond, upon the fame ridge, is Badbury camp 5 and the w hole is well planted with ftout camps and frequent, the eye-fore and terror of the plain : hence you fee Martinl'al camp and many more. Ro. road to Having recited thefe matters as preliminary, I lhall begin my journey Bath, via from Marlborough, the Roman Cunetio. I forbear fpeaking of the infinite Badonica Qf Celtic monuments 1 have found in this country, defigning them for a particular treatife, to be honoured with your lordfhip’s illuftrious name; and from Marlborough purfue the Roman road, which we have before traced from Newbury hither, and lately difcovered its whole progrefs toward the Bath, which for diftincfion fake we may call Via Badonica : its CGurfe is eaft and weft: it goes hence all along the north fide of the Ken- net river, between it and the high grounds ; and is the prefent road, but highly wants a Roman hand to repair it. When v/e have rode about a mile, over-againft Clatford, at a flexure of the river, we meet with feveral very great ftones, about a dozen in nuntber, which probably was a Celtic tem¬ ple, and ftood in a circle : this form in a great meafure they ftill preferve. I guefs the Romans buried them in the ground under their road, becaufe directly in its palfage : the materials throughout have fince been worn away, or funk into the ground, being in this place meadow, and fo has reftored their huge bulk to day-light. Hence it proceeds diredtly up to the famous Overton hill, where 1 fuit difcovered its ridge, when furveying the beau¬ tiful circle of ftones there, belonging to the majeftic temple of the old Bri¬ tons t This work on the outfiJe of the gates is called til’dus by llyginus : he orders it to be fixty foot diftant from the gate. I'he word and thing, whether round or fquaie, is analogous to our modern pricll-cap, as called : perhaps it fliould be tutulus. / ■a,' Oicibuiy OalHe 11 Ju/^. 17 27 - ITER VI. 141 tons at Abury t this ridge is a little to the north of the prefent road, fome- what higher up the hill; it points diredlly eaft and weft, one end to Marl¬ borough, the other to Silbury hill: and this fliows a defedt in our maps, which place Abury too much to the fouth : it is perfedl for fome fpace over the down ; but upon defcending the hill weftward, they have ploughed it up, and found feveral Roman coins near it, fome of which I have by me.* At the bottom, by the corner of the hedge, it meets again the common road near the White-hart ale-houfe j and fo they go together above Weft Kennet to 5 ilbury-hill: this was the poft and coach road to the Bath, till, for want of reparation, they were forced to find a new one, more northward upon the downs, and farther about, through the town of Abury: when on the fouth fide of Silbury hill, it goes very ftrait and full weft through the corn-' fields on the fouth of Bekhamton, where it is fufticiently known by the name of the French way ; for what reafon I cannot imagine. They have of late endeavoured to exclude travellers going upon it, by inclofmg it at both ends with ditches ; but the badnefs of the lower road has defeated their purpofe, and made people ftill aflert the public right. Beyond Bekhamton it again enters the downs, and marches up the hill in a very plain ridge, and beau¬ tiful to behold; the pits and cavities whence the earth was taken, on both fides, being confpicuous all the way: befides, the Romans have defaced a druid’s barrow, and another Celtic one near, which faved them fome labour: a proof they were there before the Roman road j but this is not a proper place to enlarge upon it. When it has gained the fummit of the hill, it leaves Oldbury caftle a little to the north: this is a great and Oldbury. ftrong Roman camp on the north-weft point of the hill, overlooking Caine: the precipice on thofe two fides is altogether inaccelhble, falling clown in ‘ narrow cavities or ribs, as it were the great roots of a tree, with an odd and tremendous afpedt; and that way there was need but of very flender work for its fecurity: but on the other fides it is double ditched, having but one entrance to the eaft, and that fortified with a return of the outer ditch and inner rampire, very artificially: there is a ditch likewife acrofs the middle, as if it had been inlarged with an additional intake weftward : it is in the main of a fquarifh form, and has a very fine profpedl. On the nor¬ thern limit, in the higheft part, feems to have been a pratorium. On this hill, which is wholly a chalky down, with a moft delicate turf (and fofter to walk upon than a Turky carpet) about a foot or two under the fuper- ficial earth, they dig great quantities of flints to mend the highways withal: one would imagine they had been fpewed out of the hardening chalk at the creation, as extraneous bodies, though of greater fpecific gravity than itfelf. Return we to the Roman road, which proceeds acrofs another valley, and fo towards Runway hill, the higheft in all thefe parts. This was famous for a battle in the late civil wars ; and they oft find the bullets, when digging for the pebbles as afore mentioned ; and below the hill they plough up the bones of the flain : but much more is Runway eminent for two mighty works of antiquity, this Roman way, and Wanfdike. The moft lovely profpeft here will tempt even a hafty traveller to caft his eyes about him, and fee all the country far beyond the Bath, and fo proportionably quite around. I am not doubtful that it takes its name from the Roman way, which here has an unufual and the moft curious appearance of any 1 have feen. I took pleafure in examining the particularity of it more than once; and it is a mafter- ftroke of Ikill to conduct it down the north fide of this long and fteep hill O o (as * Captain Madox lent me fome Roman coins ; a Maximian pretty large, Lt)N ; with .an inftrument of brats. Wansdik Verlucio. TAB. LXVIIL (as I have fo often remarked to be the condition of northern heights) to render it eafy, or even pradlicable. When from the top of this hill you look tov^'^ards Marlborough, which is full eaft, you may difcern that the road curves a little northward, not difcernible but in the whole : the reafon is to be attributed to the river Kennet, thruiiing it out fomewhat that way ; otherwife the true line fhould have lain a little more to the foutli ^ of Silbury. To the right you fee Wanfdike, creeping all along from fouth of Marlborough (about two mile) upon the northern edge of the great ridge of hills, parting North and South Wiltfnire, till it defcends St. Ann’s hill; and makes feveral right angles to humour the edges of the other hills : the vallum is alw'ays on the fouth fide, and the higher ground behind it; then it mounts up to the higheft apex of Runway hill. But the method of the Roman road is this : it goes along the northern fide of this hill, preferving itfelf upon the level, being cut like a terrace-walk, with a para¬ pet before it next the precipice j and that winding in and out, as the curvatures of the hill require : it pafles jufl by Calfton lime-kiln, and is defaced by it; for the workmen make no fcruple to dig through it for their materials, and this pradfice has been fo old as to denominate the town lying beneath. Soon after, it meets with the Wanfdike, defcending the hill juft by the gibbet: here it enters full into it, and very dcxteroully makes ufe of it, all along to the bottom, on a very convenient fhelf, or Ipurn of the hill: at the place of union is a flexure of the \\ anfdike, fo that the Roman road coincides with it diret:tly; and in order to raife it from .a ditch into a road, the Roman workmen have thrown in moft part of the rampire, ftili preferving it as a terrace to prevent the danger, and the terror of the defcent on one fide. I lhall mention, upon another occafion, fome other obfervations I have made long fince, that overthrow the notion of thofe that imagine Wanf¬ dike was caft up by the Saxons, as a limit of the Weft Saxon and Mercian kingdoms, or that its name is derived from their god Woden: but here we have a moft inconteftable proof that it was in being before the Roman times ; and its very name Ihows it, fignifying, in the old Britifti language, the divifton dike, guahan^ difiinttio, feparatio: it is indeed the work of the Beigce^ their fourth and laft boundary. Thefe two, the Roman road and Wanfdike, go together after this manner, till they enter the inclofures a little north of Hedington town below Runway hill. At Calfton is a moft famous fpring, or cataradf of water, coming out of the chalk-hill, and much talked of. Wanfdike was made by the people of the fouth, to cover their country, as the mode of it fufficiently teftifies, and, as we laid before, was the moft northern bounds of the Belgic kingdom. When from the top of thefe hills you view the Roman road, towards the weft you fee it butts full upon the Bath, or that great chink between Lanfdown and the banks of the river Avon going to Briftol. I had no fooner traced out this road, but I found a fair opportunity pre- fented of fetting the antiquaries right, as to part of the XlVth journey of Antoninus his Itinerary, in which they have hitlierto been much perplexed. I found no manner of difficulty in fettling Verlucio at Hedington j Hedda's town, Heddan genitivo. This town is but fmall at prefent, lying at the bottom of this great hill in a rich marly country. The inhabitants are not fur- prifed when ycu inquire for antiquities ; they affert it to have been a very old and great city ; infinite quantities of antiquities are found here: hand¬ fuls of coins brought home every time they plough, (madam Whitlock has many) and the ftreets and foundations of houfes found tor a great length, fufficiently fufficiently evince it* Reuben Horfal, clerk of'Abu ry, told me, he had feen a gallon of Roman coin taken up at a time in Hedington field, in an urn covered with a Rone. I fuppofe its original name was Verolucio^ as Verolamiimy &c. and then it fignifies, in the old Celtic, the white habi¬ tation, vro lliigy denoting fplendid, as Lugdunum, a white hill ; the fame as the Greek albus : if lug imports pure v;ater, then it muR relate to Calfton fpring, breaking forth like a cafcade : if we take the word gloyiiy limpidus, it is all one. It mufi: be noted, that both the Xlllth and XIVth journeys of Antoninus his Itinerary are abominably corrupted, and want a healing hand as much as any throughout: and being both one journey by a different route, 1 iliall undertake thus to reftore them. ITER XIII. Ab Ifca Callevam M. P. CXXXIX. fic Ifca leg. II. Aug. Caerleon Burrium Ulk IX Blefcium Old town XI Ariconiu?n Kenchefter XI Glevum colonia Glocefter XXXV Durocorinium Cirenceffer XIV Cunetio Marlborough XIX Spinas Newberry XV Vindoma Silchefier X Caleva Atrebatum Farnham XV. toto CXXXIX. In the copies the fum total is fet down CIX. miles; when, if you caff: up the particulars, it amounts to no more than XC. fo that no lefs than nine¬ teen in the original is loft: this ftiows plainly that fome Ration is dropped ; out, and geography itfelf indifpenfably demonftrates it. Mr. Fulk was fenfi- I ble of fome deficiency, by his adding Gobannium, though thereby he hit not the white : in truth, both Rations and numbers are wanting; for it is noto¬ rious that the diftance between Ariconium and Glevum, places fufficiently known, and about which we have no conteft, is much too little, when i fet down only XV. mile j and XX. muft unavoidably be added. Though I am as cautious as any man living in laying hand upon thefe venerable re¬ mains, and altering them ; yet, where nature and reafon abfolutely require it, I have not the leaft fear in adding two Rations, which are quite flipped out from the original: between Cirenceffer and Newberry it is evident Cune¬ tio muft be interpofed, or the diftance heightened to twice as much : the 1 truth is, one Ration is intermitted, Cufietio: and the like between Spinas and Calleva ; for Vindoma, or Silchefter, muft be added, beyond which is our Calleva, or Farnham j all in a ftrait line, and upon a Roman road from Ariconium. Caft up the whole account, it comes to CXXXIX. inftead of , CIX. then all the difficulties that have hitherto obfeured this journey, vanifli; they that compare William Flarrifon’s firft copy with the others of this journey, will not be furprifed at the effedts of negligent tranferibers, when, i out of feven names in other books, he has miffed two ; and fo frequently in I other journeys. In the next place I offer this as the true reading of the I fourteenth journey of Antoninus. * In Weekfield, mucli foundations of houfes, coins, &c. ITER 144 ITER VI. ITER XIIII. ■ Alio itinere ah IJca Callenxam M. P. CIII. Jie Ifca leg. II. Aug. Caerleon Venta jilurwn Caerguent IX 'Trajetlus Old-hury IX Abone Henbury IX Aquae foils Barh VI Verlucio Hedington XX Cwittio Mai boro X Spinas Newberry XV Vindoma Silchfler X. Calleva Atrebatum Farnham XV toto CIII, PUNCTUO- BICE. TAB. LXIX. This journey leads us to Calleva another way. Mr. Gale has obferved Praje^liis and Abone tranfpofed. The fum total here likewife is invariably in all copies CIII. when the particulars amount but to ninety-eight; whence we likewife infer a ftation is dropped out, as before, viz. Silchefter, with the number X. annexed. Now it happens that number was not loft, though the ftation was ; but was erroneoufly placed to Marlborough, being XX. inftead of X. feeing the diftance between the Bath and Marlborough is noto- rioully too much. Setting then X. mile to Cunetio^ its real diftance from our Verlucio, Hedington j it remains further to corredl the number an¬ nexed to Ve 7 'lucio^ XX. for XV. the letter X being eafily corrupted into ail V. then we anfwer the diftances on all hands, having a Roman road accompanying us, and complete the fum total fet at top precifely CIII. and reftore the whole to its ancient purity. When we refledl a little, that, take the matter how we will any other way, the difficulties are unfurmount- able, I am thoroughly fatisfied in thefe corredlions. Much rufty old iron is dug up at the quarries by Brunham, probably of the Romans : it is a mile olf Hedington. Upon the hedge of the hill which overlooks Hedington, as it bends a little fouthward, is another pretty little Roman camp, in an angle of the hill, of a fquare form, and as if not finiilied, or made for but a fmall time of abode upon an expedition ; for neither vallum nor ditch of any great ftrength: it is fituate on a very convenient promontory, or rather peninfula of high ground, the fteepnefs whereof is a guard to three fides of it; the other has the Bender vallum made chiefly of the furface of the earth thrown up a little. From the edge of thefe hills is an indefinite profpedf over the country of the Dohufii^ the Belga, and Durotriges: the defcent to it, as being on the weft fide of the hill, is very fteep. I think this place is called Bagdon hill. Under it, to the left, is the Devifes : this I take to be the PunBuohice of Ravennas, which he mentions by parcels thus: Leucomagm^ Bedwin, {Cimetzone tor) Cunetione in the ablative cafe, Marlborough ; Pundiuobice^ the Deviles : then he begins a new period of cities in Wales, Venta Silurum^ &;c. I tuppoie here is a remnant of the former part of the word Punc- tuohice in Poulfliolt, a little village hard by; Potern another, Potern-wood, and the name of the hundred Potern, taken, in the firft times of their divifion, from fuch a corrupt appellation of this place : the laft fyllable fubfifts in the prefent name Devifes, vulgarly vies. This tov/n is excel¬ lently fituated, about two miles from the bottom of the hills, which keep ITER VI. off the eaftern winds, and in a rich roil.;j: Under the hill at Runway is an excellent Ipring, which the inhabitants have not yet found means to convey thither, though it runs but a little way off the town, where they want water. It is a very large old town, confiffing chiefly of two long parallel flreets ; the houfes for the mofl: pait of timber, but of a very good model: they value themfelves for one of the befl; v/eekly markets in England, and for being tenants to the king. It was inclofed by the Romans with a vallum and ditch, which I prefently found out: they have niade a road of the ditch in mofl: parts round the town j but in feveral places both that and vallum are vifible enough, and it took in the caftle : this caflle was Roman originally, finely chofen upon a natural fortification, but in after-times made in a manner impregnable by Roger a bifliop of Salifbury; though now it is ignobly mangled, and every day deftroyed by people that care not to leave a w'all flanding, though for a fence to their garden. Here are two churches j the choir of St. Mary’s, of a very old model; the fleeple, choir, and both wings of St. John’s, the fame, to which parcels have fince been tacked all round, and new wdde win¬ dows put in with pointed arches, inflead of the ancient narrow femi-cir- cular ones. Jufl out of town is a pretty plain, called the Green, with another handlbme church and fleeple, fuburbs to the old town. Here William Cadby, a gardener, dug up his collection of gods, which he carried about for a fhow: they were found in a garden, in a cavity inclofed with Roman brick : the Venus is of an excellent defign ; and the Veflal Virgin, as they call it, a fragment of Corinthian brafs; it is of very curious drapery: Vulcan is as lame as if made at a forge : the refl equal in defigning with the lares of the OJliaques^ and not at all mended in the plate publiihed by Dr. Mufgrave: he had feveral coins found thereabouts, and a brafs Roman key which my lord Winchelfea bought. Roman antiquities are found here every day. My lord Winchelfea has one brafs Probus ; on the reverfe, Victoria Germ, with a trophy: and a great fund of fuch antiquities is to be met with all around the country. At Caine incredible numbers of Roman coin dug up; fo at Studley, in the way to Bath, once a feat of the Saxon kings : I have feen and bought fome of thefe : my lord Winchelfea has many found there. From hence towards Trubridge is Steeple-Aflon, upcin the bottom of the downs of Salifbury plain : it is a mofl excellent church and tower of flone, and had a famous fpire of lead upon it, but twice thrown down by thunder and tempefl, which abfolutely difcouraged the inhabitants from fetting it Up again. Return we to the Roman Bath road, which we left at Hedington ; whence it goes much as the common road to Bath, and all along upon the fouth divifion of Chipenham hundred: I could difcern its bank now and then upon the road, though much worn away and defaced in detedf of neceffary repairs: it pafies the Avon at Lacock, where has been a great religious houfe, fo by a chapel fouth of Haleibury: then it dcfcends a hill for two miles together, till it meets, over-againlt Bathford, tlie Fols-\Aay, which comes in a flrait line hither through Cirenccfler, hou\ Befionis or High-crofs in Warwickfhire, where I left ii laflyear: then our road goes round the crook of the river by Walcot to the Bath. 1 bis turn it is that fwells the diflance between Bath and Verlucio to XX. Roman miles, as we before corrected it. The Wanfaike runs fliil not far off this road, but a little P p north f Divitiacus, king of the Gauls, had a great crmruand in Britain, in and feem? to have given his name to the Devizes, upon hiS frontier. Wells remains of tire Beiges, 145 Aqvje Solis. TAB. LXX. L.XXL north of it through Spy park; fo by Ditchbridge, which has its name from it 5 then to the Shire ilones, at the cliviiioii between Gloucefterfhire, Wilts, and Somerfet. As to the nature of the foil, when we have left the chalky downs at Hedington, it is intireiy fand to the river Avon, whence the name of Sandy lanes ; from thence to the Bath it is rocky. There is a vaft de- fcent from the Downs quite to Bath, and every great ridge is very fteep weftward. The Bath is a place fo celebrated, and fo well known, that I need fay but little upon it; nor can much be expected from the fmali time I refted here: its hifory and antiquities have been copioufly handled by feveral gentlemen of our own faculty. It is indeed a fpot of ground which we Britons may efteem as a particular boon of Nature; it lies in a great valley furrounded with an amphitheatrical view of hills j and its fituation on the weft fide of the ifiand does not a little contribute to its pleafures ; for fuch is ever lefs fubjecfc to violent and enormous alterations of the air by winds and tempeft, heat and cold: but the Romans v/ere prudently induced to make a ftation here, by the admirable hot fprings, fo wonderful in them- felves, andfojuftly regarded. The walls round the city are for the moft part intire, and perhaps the old Roman work, except the upper part, which feems repaired with the ruins of Roman buildings; for the lewis holes are ftill left in many of the ftones, and, to the ihame of the repairers, many Roman infcriptions : fome fawn acrofs, to fit the fize of the place, are ftill to be feen, fome with the letters towards the city, others on the outfide : moft of thofe mentioned in Mr. Camden and other authors are ftill left; but the legend more obfcure. The level of the city is rifen to the top of the firft walls, through the negligence of the magiftracy, in this and ail other great towns, who fuffer idle fervants to throw all manner of dirt and afties into the ftreets : thefe walls inclofe but a fmali compafs, of a pentagonal form : four gates on four fides, and a poftern on the other: from the fouth-weft angle has been an additional wall and ditch carried out to the river; by which fhort work the approach of an enemy on two fides is cut off, uniefs they pafs the river. The fmali compafs of the city has made the inhabitants croud up the ftreets to an unfeemly and inconvenient narrownefs: it is handfomely built, moftly of new ftone, which is very white and good ; a difgrace to the architedls they have there. The cathe¬ dral is a beautiful pile, though fmali; the roof of ftone well wrought j much imagery in front, but of a forry tafte. Here they fuppofe (with probability) flood the Roman temple of Minerva, patronefs of the Baths.-f* Before it was a handfome fquare area, but lately deformed with houfes encroaching : on the fouth fide are the juftly-renowned hot fprings, col- ledled into a fquare area called the King’s Bath. The corporation has lately erected a pretty handfome building before it, called the Drinking-room, for the company to meet in that drink the waters drawn hither by a marble pump from the bottom of the fprings, where it is near boiling hot. This water is admirably grateful to the ftomach, ftriking the roof of the mouth with a fine fulphureous and fteely gas, like that of the German Spa or Pyrmont: though you drink off a large pint glafs, yet it is fo far from crea¬ ting a heavinefs, or ?iaufea, that you find yourfelf brifker immediately, by its agreeable fenfation on the membranes of the ftomach : at firft it operates by t A moft noble bufto in brafs found at the Bath, anno 1727. Mr. Gale fays it is not eafy to know whether it he a man’s or a w'oman’s : I fuppofe it is the Genius of the city, buried there for luck fake. Such anoth.er found in tlie middle of Baris, very deep, with a mural crown on ; and lucli a one had ours, the holes being vilible wdiere it w'as fiftened. Aqva Solis i } ___ pp YZ9 an opoFtpi^ tp qixse Soli3 Itily :?i. \ 72 Z . Fro7?ztAe £op gf tke Sout/ierTZ Ai/l. / I' r- i I ti i I f 7 $ \ a; '■M I / M7 I T E Jl VI. by ftool,and efpecially urine: it is of moft fovereign virtue to ftrengthen the bowels, to reftore their loft tone through intemperance or ina6livity, and renews the vital fire by its adventitious heat, and congenial principles. Hither let the hypochondriac ftudent repair, and drink at the Mufes' fpring : no doubt the advantages obtained here in abdominal obftrinftions muft be very great. The King’s Bath is an oblong fquare; the walls full of niches, perhaps the Roman work: there are twelve on the north fide, eight on the eaft and weft j about four larger arches on the fouth : at every corner are the fteps to defcend into it, and a parapet or baluftiade with a walk round it: in the middle is fet an aukward timber-work, like a crofs, adorned with crutches, the trophies of its wonderful cures : around that emerge the boiling fprings very plentifully: upon the fouth wall is the fanciful im.age of king Bladud, with a filly account of his finding out thefe fprings, more reafonably attributed to the Romans: they no doubt feparated them firft from common fprings, and fenced them in with an eternal v/all. The people have a notion, and probable enough, of fubterraneal canals of their making, to carry off the other waters, left they fhould mix and fpoil the heat of thefe. It is remarkable that at the cleanfing of the fprings, when they fet dovv^n a new pump, they conftantly find great quantities of hazle-nuts, as in many other places among fubterraneous timber. Thefe I doubt not to be the remains of the famous and univerfal deluge, which the Hebrew hiftorian tells us was in autumn, Providence by that means fecuring the revival of the vegetable world. In this bath the people ftand up to the chin, men and women, andftew, as we may properly call it; for the moft part, in the way of gallantry, and as at a collation. I fhould judge the method ufed at Buxton preferable, where the fexes go in feparately and privately, where they have liberty to fwim about and ftir the limbs, and exercife the lungs; whence the whole body will better receive the full force and benefit of the warmth: and this will more effedlually put the humours in motion, that fhould be exterminated at the opened pores : this exercife of the folids fets the glands to work, and every fecretion is promoted. Many are the difeafes and calamities which here find a happy period, when judicioufly applied, which, as a traveller, I need not difcourfe upon. This brings innumerable people to the falutiferous ftrcams; efpecially in the fummer time, which iikewife feems an error owing to cuftom and fafhion ; for I doubt not they are equally, if not more beneficial, both internally and externally, in winter than fummer. The carrying the water to diftant places to drink, feems only a fplendid fallacy. I obferve the whole country hereabouts is a rock of good lime-ftone, which is the miner a of the water’s heat and virtue : but how that comes to be calcined; by what refined chymiftry of Nature fulphur and fteel are mixed with it j by what means it acquires and conferves v/ith fo much conftancy this equable and mighty focus^ together with the reafon of fountains in general ; I profefs, in my fentiments, is one of the great arca?za in philo- fophy hitherto inferutable. Behind the fouthern wall of the King’s Bath is a leffer fquare, called the Queen’s Bath, with a tabernacle of four pillars in the midft : this is of more temperate warmth, as deriving its water at fecond-hand from the other. There are Iikewife pumps and pumping-rooms, for pouring hot ftreams on any part of the body; which in many cafes is very ufeful, to diiToIve fizy concretions about the joints and the like, and recovers the natural elafticity in the relaxed fibres of the folids. The area before this bath and front of the cathedral, is in the centre of the pentagon^ upon which the city is formed. ITE VI. formed. Why the Romans m.ade it of this unufual figure, I cannot tell: nothing appears from the manner of the ground and fituation j but I cbferve the lame of Aix in France. . One would be apt to fafpedt they had a regard to the facred fymbol and myftical charadfer of medicine, which in ancient times was thought of no inconfiderabie virtue: this is a pentagonal figure, formed from a tj iple triangle, called by the name of Hygeia, becaufe to be refolved into the Greek letters that compofe the word. The Pythagoreans ufed it among their difciples as a myftical fymbol, denoting health ; and the cabaliftic Jews and Arabians had the famie fancy : it is the pe?italpha, or pentagrammon^ among the Egyptians ; the mark of profperity. Antiochus Soter, going to fight againft; the Galatians, was adviled m a dream to bear this fign upon his banner j whence he obtained a fignal vidtory. This Vi'ould make one believe a phylician had a hand in projecling this city. Dr. Mufgrave thinks it was Scribonius, who accompanied Claudius hither. In the fouth-weft part of the town are two other baths, not to be dif- regarded : for in any other place v/ho would not purchafe them at the greateft price ? 1 he Hot bath is a fmall parallelogram, not much inferior in heat to the King’s bath : it has a ftone tabernacle of four pillars in the middle. The Crols bath, near it, is triangular, and had a crofs in the middle j which now is a very handfome work, in mai ble, of three Corinthian pillars, eredled by the lord Milford, in memory of king James the Second’s queen conceiving, as it is laid, after the ufe thereof. Hard by is an ho- Ipital built and endowed by a biftiop of this fee. The water in thefe two places riles near to the level of the ftreets, becaufe I fuppofe in this part of the town the earth is not fo much heightened. On the fouth fide of the cathe¬ dral are fome parts of the abbey left, and the gate-houfe belonging to it. Not long ago, by money contributed, they made a cold bath, at a fpring beyond the bridge, that nothing of this fort might be wanting for the benefit of the infirm. Since Mr. Camden’s time two infcriptlons have been fet in the eaftern wall of the cathedral, fronting the w'alks: but this is a^ imprudently done as thofe in the city-walls j for, befides the rain and weather, they are expofed to the boys, who throw ftones at them : one is that of Julius Vitalis, publiihed by Dr. Mufgrave 5 the other, which he calls a baffo relievo of Geta, leems to have been the top of a monumental ftone over fome common horfeman. Harrifon’s houfe, they fay, is built againft fome balfo’s and infcriptions. In the 49th plate I have given the whole TAB.XLI. ftone and infcription, now in the wall near the north gate. 2d VoL ^1; Walcot has been a camp, and many Roman antiquities are frequently found. Lord Vfinchelfea has an urn, 2i patera, and other things, found in a ftone coffin, wherein was a child’s body, half a mile off the Bath. Riding upon Lanfdown, I faw the monument, lately erected by lord Lanfdown, in memory of his grandfather Bevil Granvile, ftain here in a battle v\ith the parliament forces. Hence, it being a north-weft precipice, is a profpedt of Briftol, the Severn, &c. This road feems to be the Ric- ning-ftrect, called Langiidge, going to the paffage over the Severn, the ancient TrajeSlus j and fo along the eaft fide of the Severn, and into York- flnre. 1 he ground hereabouts is very red, covering a folid rock of ftone, which lies in thin layers parallel to the horizon, with as much exadtnefs as if hev^^n for courfes in a wall: this ftone is full of little Ihelis j and of this fort is the monument of Julius Vitalis : between the ft 7 -ata are cryftalliza- tions or Boors of petrifying juices: all the ftone in this country abounds with curious foffils. As you walk along a new paved road, it is very com¬ mon TAB. XLIX. 4 .. ---. Roiian iNscEiPTio^rs Jlcmvra^bUi. Jdfu CVerii i^aKniL Jia'ccar m JiatCa ta6.d.IVTF[AE EXy^TORIIArEpT CLAD- €0 PIDVBISTR' E A-BRiri CC»1T,G1VM>FABr6e ET QVFIlShEO S P p i;-X) - S - D - DOAANTE-AREAyf TVdWtTE- PVDENTIXI'''T1L- Ok ' I t \ "i 4 ( 1 ' .r 7 ' I ; I ■ ■ J 'i '. •' ■'. > •• 5 « f. . y :• ;■ i •.T/ieJi'/pC/iurcA. C.S'Mayyjc/ui/p£/V>.Eparj c/i£ppd.l..TAf-/i^/iAcrer. Y-Tlu Cioy^terj- . &. TAellaM. rVi^.r/ieAhbotj futc/izn.. \.The Al>l>otf O'. '■" . ' "’’ •.'.a' '. ■:■ ) • ^ •1 I 1 . / "P'P (>7ppfvpj. mu/Ki>m^.> ; Jiz/rAzrt . B- JAzS ^OcAyzry^^ ‘ C. jS^ A^/za^^xe/ ■ B - TYlS Tonrn C/uiZ^A.Y^ ^ zil^Sj/ ^AzzZ'c/t Tottj-CT' - G ~ S^.AlAr^^ C^U^^e/. ~ 11^ ICtr4^^ J'cu/: ’ -IT .Edz7(7?'rcCA'uzppe/'• T. tA^ EAoi7‘ ■ K - zA/f • L ■ ^/zs Eez/A . M . tA^^^o-nAs ■ N - t/ie Alrrzepz/ . V i ( i I 1 (! i( "■*1 ■■'"Is •‘ 'f; 'aV' ■> . •• V- >:: ■I lii '«i y' ' I, m % m ^' ' ''l/ I. I T53 I T E Pt VI. the whole ftru^lure, as in plate 35. the roof is chiefly wanting : two little turrets are at the corners of the w^eft end, and two more at the interval of four windows from thence, which feem to indicate the fpace of ground the firft chapel was built on ; the reft between it and the church was a fort of anti-chapel. ' Underneath was a vault now full of water, the floor of the chapel being beaten down into it: it was wrought with great ftones. Here was a capacious receptacle of the dead ; they have taken up many leaden coffins, and melted them into ciflerns. Hence is the fubterraneous arched pafl'ageto the Torr, according to their notion. The roof of the chapel was finely arched with rib-work of ftone: the fides of the walls are full of fmall pillars of Suflex marble, as likewife the whole church ; which was a little way of ornamenting in thofe days : they are moflly beaten down ; between them the walls are painted with pidlures of faints, as ftill eafily feen. All the walls are overgrown with ivy, which is the only thing here in a flou- rifhing condition j everything elfe prefenting a mofl; melancholy, though venerable afpedl. On the fouth fide the cloyflers was the great hall. 1 he town’s people bought the ftone of the vaults underneath to build a forry market-hoLife, contributing to the ruin of the facred fabric, and to their XXxVlF. own : what they durft not have done fingly, they perpetrated as a body, hoping vengeance would flip between fo many ; nor did they difcern the benefit accruing to the town from the great concourfe of ftrangers purpofely to I'ee this abbey, which is now the greateft trade of it, as formerly its only fup- port; for it is in a mofl: miferable decaying condition, as wholly cut off from the great revenues fpent among them. There are many other foundations of the buildings left in the great area^ but in the prefent hands will foon be rooted up, and the very footffeps of them effaced, which io many ages had been eredfing. Though I am no encourager of fuperftitious foppery, yet I think, out of that vaft eftate, fomewhat might have been left, if only to preferve old monuments for the benefit of our hiffory. The abbot’s hall I have been told was curioufly wainfcoted with oak, and painted with coats of arms in every pannel. The mortar of thefe buildings is very good, and great rocks of the roof of the church lie upon the ground, confifling chiefly of rubble ftone untouched by the fanatical deftroyersj who work on the hewn flone of the outfide, till a whole wall falls when undermined a little. Throughout the town are the tattered remains of doors, windows, bafes, capitals of pillars, &c. brought from the abbey, and put into every poor cottage. In the town are two churches; the upper a handfome fabric, with a fine tower of good defign, adorned with figures in niches : at the eaft end of the chu]'ch-yard is a curious old tomb infcribed with ancient Englifh let¬ ters, but fo worn with trampling on, that I could miake little out of it, ex¬ cept the name of the interred Alleyn. The George inn is an old flone building, called the Abbot’s inn, where chiefly the pilgrims v/ere lodged that came flrolling hither, and idling their time away for fandtity : flone and timber are liberally beflowed on it: a coat of arms of the kings of England, fupported by a lion and a bull, over the gate, and many croffes : the bed I lay in was of large timber, with great emboffed gilt panneis, and feemed to have been the abbot’s. When I left this place, I palTed through a great gate built acrofs the road under the abbey wall, with a leller portal by the fide of it 5 which I fup- pofe was fome boundary of the abbey-lands, and part of their extravagance j for the abbot’s revenues being inconfumable in their way of life, they prodigally threw it away in building, as one method of perpetuating their R r name : ITE VI. name : another they had which was very ufeful, the making great and high caufevi^ays, along this moory country, for facilitating travelling and com¬ merce; the remains of which I favv here and there, and wilhed they had been in better repair. I palled by the fide of Werial hill, where grew the famous hawthorn that blolfomed at Chriftmas; I luppofe, an early bloom¬ ing white-thorn : but that it fo ftricfly obferved Chriltmas day to an hour, nay a minute, as they here ali'ert, I believe no more than the vulgar deri¬ vation of the hill, with more of the dregs of monkery. Somerton is an old town, that gives name to the whole county, once the royal feat of the V/ eft-Saxon kings : the fteeple is ohfangular: probably it was a Roman town. I faw a camp upon a great copped high hill on the right hand, as I travelled. At llchelfer town end I fell into the Fofs road again. iscHALjs. This Ration of the Romans is lituate on the fouth fide of the river Ive], or Yeovil, the Velox of Ravennas. Pillbridge, a little lower, feems to retain LXXII, the name : it is the Uzella of Ptolemy. I perceived immediately that this place had been originally encompalfed with a wall and ditch, and traced out the manifelt vejligia thereof cjuite round : it was an oblong fquare 300 paces in length, 200 in breadth, ffanding upon the oblique jtoints of the compafs, conform to the Fofs way, which palfes through the town exabfly from north-eaft to fouth-well: the north-eaft fide ot the city lay againft the river, where I faw foundations of the wall here and there, and took up feveral Roman bricks in fearching for it in the gardens : the ditch on the north-weft fide is become a road, called Yard-lane, as going behind the yards and gardens : then it runs through the friery garden; for the religious had extended their bounds beyond the city, and turned the road on the outfide : then it goes along the road on the back of Mr. Lockyer’s gar¬ den : it is now vifible between the Yeovil road and the fouthern angle; then runs through another garden, being for the moft part levelled by the gardener, who Ihowed me the track of it, and had by times, in digging, taken up remainders of the wall, with many coins, bricks, tiles, and other antiquities. I bought fome coins of him, among which the brafs one of Antoninus Pius depidfed in the plate ; on the reverfe, Britannia fitting on a rock with a military enfign. Sir Philip Sydenham has a great quantity of coins found here, and the minifter of the parifh gave many to the learned Mr. Coke of Norfolk. This gardener fliowed me many fquare paving bricks in the floor of his houfe, and told me he dug up a great brafs coin, as big as half a crown, under the foundation of the wall, which doubtlefs would have difcovered to us the area of its building. Crofting the Sher- burn and Limington road, we find the ditch again, turning up to the river- fide, on the eaftern angle, conformable to the fcheme; where it is again in- clofed into gardens and paftures: the occupier of the gardens there informed me too, that he had frequently dug up the like antiquities, together with the foundations of the wall. The quickfet-hedge that fences in the gar¬ den (lands on the edge of the ditch, and obferves its turn at that angle of the city: by the new mill it meets the river. In all the gardens hereabouts, by the Borough-green, they find foundations of old houfes ; and fome run acrofs the prefent ftreets, now vifible above ground. This ditch, when perfebr, admitted the water of the river quite round. Mr. Lockyer’s houfe is built upon fubterraneous arches. They fay here have been fixteen parifh- churches, and foundations are to be found all the town over; and that the fuburbs extended fouthward, efpecially on the Y'eovil road, which formerly had a gate; it is not to be doubted but that there were gates at the paffage of all the other ftreets. They fay the bifhop of Bath and Vfelis has a manu- fcript ISCHALIS ■ > 7 ' ■ a fTlatyj c 7 ia^iful \i.n''/u'rc /an • a ntcVa-i^ /lat-cz/unr c ./tatvnitnUr i/ T^Aamoft /?•*•/ ddd, a7^7 ^aun/atitnu e , ^lav^nie-n^- a f/ie £■ TTu^a-t^ tr .J2^ta'n^tan < 26 ^ g. //' ViTte c^ia^tr/ .//h-Ayer' /(/. . 50 iQp Jhikcipy /I 1 I Cac/tt Jctify’- 155 I T E 11 VI. fcript relating to the ancient flate of this town. They have the fame tra¬ dition as in many other places, that the old city was fet on fire by matches tied to the tails of fparrows, let fly from a place called Stannard-crofs hill. As foon as I came into the inn, (the Swan) I faw a great parcel of the little flones of a teffelated pavement, found but two days before, in a garden over the way near the river:, a croud of people came immediately out of curiofity to fee it, and tore it up : I faw fome of the remainder mJitu^ about two foot deep, laid in firong mortar upon a hard gravelled floor : I made the owner melancholy with informing him what profit he might have got by preferving it, to fhow to flrangers. The Fofs-way retains its name, and makes the principal flrect : the pavement thereof, or the original ford acrofs the river, may be feen on the weft fide of the bridge, made with great flag Hones. Upon the bridge is an old chapel, called Little St. Mary’s : at the foot of the bridge within the town is another, called White-chapel; both, converted into dwellings. Foundations of houfes, chimney-pieces, and the like, have been dug up in the meads on the well fide the town, and on both fides the river, with flone coffins and other funeral apparatus. The head of the mayor’s Haff or mace is a piece of great antiquity in caft brafs : there are four niches with four images, two kings, a queen, and an angel : it feems to have been the crofier of fome leligious houfe : round the bottom, is wrote, in two lines, + In the northern angle beyond the old ditch of the city, towards the river, have been fome baflions and modern fortifications, of the time of king Charles T. Beyond the river is a village adjoining, called North-over, with a church ; at Mrs. Hoddle’s, hard by, I faw a grey-hound bitch, from whofe fide a flcewer of wood feven inches long had worked itfelf out from the flomach: we have fome fuch rare cafes in medicinal hiftories. They talk of a caftle Handing where now is the gaol, and that the tide came formerly up hither, though now it reaches not beyond Langport. WeH of this, fome time fince, they dug up fome bones in a leaden cafe, as big as a band-box, laid in a hol¬ lowed Hone; and near it, under a tree, was a vault of Hone, where a body was found lying at full length. Langport is moted about, as they tell me, and probably was a Roman town. I'hefe were all the remarkables I met with at Ifchalis^ where I Haid but half a day. Hence I continued my journey along the Fofs, which I obferved paved Fofs road, with the original work in many parts : it is compofed of the flat quarry- Hones of the country, of a good breadth, laid edgewife, and fo clofe that it looks like the fide of a wall fallen down, and through the current of fo many ages is not worn through : a glorious and ufeful piece of induHry, and, to our lhame, not imitated j for a fmall reparation from time to time would have preferved it intire, and where it is fo much wanted in a dirty country. As I rode, on my left hand I faw the pleafant view of Montacute hill, a copped round eminence incompaifed at bottom with a broad verge of wood, fo that it looks like a high-crowned hat with a fringed hat-band : here has been a caHle and chapel at top, and below it a religious houfe .built by the earl of Moriton in the time of William the Conqueror.-f- Another hill near it, much of the fame figure. Between them and the Fofs, upon the t Some have had a notion that Jofeph of Arimathea was buried at Montague hill, not at Glafenbury ; but if Joieph ever was in Britain, it is moft likely he was buried really at Glafen- burv ; and probably it is Simon the Zealot, or Canaanite, one of our Saviour’s apoftles, that is buried at Montague ; the two (lories being confounded, and perhaps two made of one : for that Simon preached in Britain, wrought miracles here, was martyred and buried in Britain, we have the exprefs teftimony, and very ancient, of Nicephorus, Dorotheus, the Greek Monolo- gies, wheiein he is faid to be crucified and buried there. 15-6 Hamden. HILL. I\o. camp. TAB. XLIV. Chard, IscA . Dumnonl DRUM. TAB. LXXIIL the fame hilly ridge, is a Roman camp called Hamden hill, with a double ditch about it; to which leads a vicinal Roman way from the Fofs through Stoke. The Fofs is very plain and frrait hither, and to Petherton bridge near South Petherton, once the palace of king Ina : here was formerly a wooden bridge, but ruinous, where two children were drowned, as they fay j whereupon their parents rebuilt it of flone, and caufed their effigies to be cut upon a ftone which lies at the foot of the bridge. In a field not far off, two years ago a pot full of Pvoman coin, to the quantity of fix pecks, was dug up. Beyond this the Fofs grov/s intricate and obfcure, from the many collateral roads made through the badnefs and want of re¬ paration in the true one; yet it feems to run through Bonington, which Hands on a very high hill, and, when mounted, prefents us with a vaft fcene of Devonfitire. I luppofe this Fofs went on the eaft fide of Chard, and fo by Axminfter and Culliton, to Seaton or Moridimiim-, where properly it begins ; v/hence if v/e meahire its noble length to the fea-coaft in Lincolnfhire, at Grimfby or Saltfleet, where I imagine it ends, it amounts to 250 Roman miles in a ftrait line from north-eaft to fouth-w^eft. Your lordfhip'pre- fented me v/ith an oyfter, found a little northward of Axminfter, where the very lilli appears petrified with its cartilaginous concretion to the fliell, all in their proper colours. The ftreet of Chard runs direftly eaft and weft, where formerly was kept a large market on Sundays. Beyond this to Honiton is a very bad road of ftones and land, over brooks, fpring-heads, and barren downs. From the hill¬ tops about Stockland I firft had fight of the fouthern ocean; ' a moft folemn view, a boundlefs extent of water throwm into a mighty horizontal curve. Beyond Honiton the fcene of travelling mended apace, and the fine De- vonftiire profpefts entertained the eye in a manner new and beautiful; for here the hills are very long and broad, the valleys between propor¬ tional, fo that the vaftly-extended concavity prefen ted an immenfe landfcape of paftures and hedge-rows diftindt, like a map of an adlual furvey, and not beyond ken : thefe are full of fprings, brooks, and villages, copfes and gen¬ tlemen’s feats j and when you have palled over one hill, you fee the like repeated before you, with Nature’s ufual diverfity. They told me of a great kairn, or heap of ftones, on Black down, called Lapper-ftones j probably a fepulchral monument. Exeter is the famous Ifca Dumnonioriim of the Romans, the laft Ration this way in Antoninus his Itinerary j pen cair of the Britons, the capital: it is a large and populous city, built upon a pleafant eminence on the eaft- ern bank of the river E.v, or Ifca when latinifed. I fuppofe the original word fignifies no more than waters, like the French eanx, a colledfion of them, or feveral rivers, or branches of rivers, running parallel; and that whether it be wrote Ax, Ex, Ix, Ox, or Ux -, of which many inftances all over England. This river is navigable up to the city, but the tide comes not quite fo high. The v/alls take in a very great compafs, being a paral¬ lelogram of 3000 Roman feet long, 2000 broad -, having a gate on every fide: it lies oblique to the cardinal points of the compafs, and objects its main declivity to the fouth-weft. What adds to its wholefomenefs and cleanlinefs, is that the ground is higher in a ridge along the middle of its length, declining on both ftdes : further, on the fouth-weft and north-weft fides it is precipicious: fo that, with the river, the walls, the declivity of ground and ditch without ftde, it was a place of very great ftrength, and well chofe for a frontier againft the ancient Corinavii: it w'as built with a good omen, and has been ever in a flourilhing condition. The walls are in pretty good repair, ISCAx. WD;vmnonio WM. 7 » j. tS'PeWv 2 /S^/lc/udM2^ru J tf^(afy 77ie£>i 4- ^/2c0ea/i/j' '' ^^[Uia//c7i^ 72/a/7 S)lir/et ^/foM^a/u / iS^'S^ntujK/s Gailielmo.3t.tiCS)Tav'elM.I). Culielmi ^ilio.Aanaco fuo A-H.- */7 . Stii7u:/cj/ sUitktl^ JeJm . Sru2^ 157 ITER VI. repair, having many lunettes and towers, and make a walk round the city, with the advantage and pleafure of feeing the fine country on the oppofite hills, full of wood, rich ground, orchards, villages and gentlemen’s houfes. The beauty of the place confifts mainly of one long ftreet, running the length of the parallelogram, called High-ftreet, broad and ftrait: the houfes are of a very old, but good model, fpacious, commodious, and not inelegant: this ftreet is full of Ihops well furniflied, and all forts of trades look brilk. The people are induftrious and courteous : the fair fex are truly fo, as well as numerous ; their complexions, and generally their hair likewife, fair : they are genteel, difengaged, of eafy carriage and good mien. At Mr. Cole’s the goldfmith I faw an old ground-plot of this city in queen Elizabeth’s time: there has been fince a vail increafe of buildings within and without the city : the fituation renders it of neceflity clean, dry and airy. The foil hither from Eloniton was rather fandy than ftony, whence it muft needs be very healthful; and it is of a convenient diftance from the fea. They drive a great trade here for woollen manufafture in cloths, ferges, fluft's, &cc. all along the water-fide innumerable tenters or racks for firetching them. Here is a good face of learning too; many bookfeliers’ fhops: I faw a printed catalogue of an auclion of books to be fold there. I faw the colofs head of the emprefs Julia Domna dug up near Bath, in Dr. Mufgrave’s garden, which his father cslWs Andromache: the head-drefs is like that of her times, and her bull at Wilton ; nor is the manner and carving defpifable : the graver has not done it juftice. It is the noblefl relique of Britifli antiquity of this fort that we knov/: it is twenty-one inches from the top of the attire to the chin, and belonged to a flatue of twelve foot proportion, fet upon fome temple or palace originally. In the fame place is the infcription of Camillus publifhed by him : I faw his library, a very good colledlion of books, coins and other antiquarian fupellex ; likewife a treatife, ready for publication, of the original gout, which he wrote thirty years ago, before his other two. The doclor had made this'diflemper his particular view through his long pradlicej and this country remarkably abounds with patients of that fort, which he attributes in a great meafure to the cuftom of marling the lands with lime, and the great ufe of poor, fweet cyder, efpecially among the meaner people. In the northern angle of the city, and higheft ground, is Rugemont caftle, once the royal refidence of the Weft-Saxon kings, then of the earls of Cornwall: it is of a fquarifli figure, not very large, environed with a high wall and deep ditch : there is a rampire of earth within, equal in height to the top of the wall at prefent, and makes a terrace-walk overl jok¬ ing the city and country. In the morning, the air being perfeclly ferene, and the fun fhining, I obferved from this place all the country fouthward, between the fea and Exeter, covered with a very thick fog ; the weft fide of the city and country beyond it very clear. In this place is the auize- houfe and a chapel. In the wall of this caftle is a narrow cavity quite round, perhaps for conveyance of a found from turret to turret. Dr. Hol¬ land fuppofes this to have been a Roman work originally;, and it is not unlikely that it was xditvc pratorium^ or garrifon. Beyond the ditch is a pleafant walk of trees, and a little intrenched hill, called Danes caftle. The cathedral is a good pile of building ; two old towers ftand on the north and fouth tranfept of the moft ancient part: the organ is remarkably large; the diapafon pipes fifteen indies diameter, and fet againft the pillars of the church : the weft front of the church is full of old ftatues. Many religious foundations in the city are converted into ftreets and houfes, full S s ' of 158 ITER VI. of numerous families and thriving inhabitants, inftead of lazy monks and nuns. King Edward 1 . in the Saxon times founded the monaftery of Ex¬ eter, anno 868 : Athelftan enlarged it for the Benediftines in 932 : Edward Confeffor tranflated thofe monks to Weftminfter, and made this an epi- fcopal fee; not Edward III. as Mr. Camden fays. Leofricus a Briton was the firft billiop, and founder of the cathedral : he was chaplain to king Edward the Confeffor, anno 1046 : he gave his lands at Bampton in Ox- fordfliire to this church ; he has a monument in the fouthern tranfept. Warewaft, the third bifhop, began to build the choir, 13 Henry I. Bilhop Brewer created the dean and prebends in the time of Henry III. Bifhop Quivel built the body of the church to the weft end, 13 Edward I. he inffituted the fub-dean and fmging-men. Bifliop Grandifon lengthened the cathedral by two arches, and is buried in a little chapel in the weft end : bifhop Lacy began the chapter-houfe 3 bifliop Nevil finifhed it: bifhop Courtney built the north tower, or rather rej)aired it, and gave that large bell called : the dean and chapter built the cloyfters. St. Mary’s chapel, at the end of the choir, is now turned into a library : this, I fup- pofe, is what bifhop Leofric built. The bifhop’s throne in the choir is a lofty Gothic work. Here are many monuments of bifhops in the cathedral. The prefent deanery, they fay, was a nunnery. The monaftery of St. Andrew at Covvic was founded by Thomas Courtney earl of Devon j a cell to Bee abbey in Normandy: it was diffolved in the time of Edward III. Roger Holland, I fuppofe duke of Exeter, lived in it in the time of Ed¬ ward VI. St. Nicholas’ priory was a cell to Battle abbey : St. John’s was of Auguftine friers: Polefloe, a mile off, dedicate to St. Catharine, a nun¬ nery of the BenediGine order: Marfh was a cell to Plympton : Cleve was a monaftery of Black canons ; St. James’ priory, of Ciuniac monks : Grey friers, without South-gate, wereFrancifeans 5 Gold-hays, without Weft-gate, Black friers: the Bear inn was the abbot of Taviftock’s houfej the Black- lion too was a religious houfe; Lathbier another, near the new river below Radford mount. Thus had thefe holy locufts well nigh devoured the land. In Corry lane, over-againft St. Paul’s church, is a little old houfe called King Athelftan’s, laid to have been his palace, built of large fquare ftones, and circular arches over the doors : it feems indeed to have been originally a Roman building, though other later works have been added to the doors and windows; over the door in the ftreet is a very fmall niche crouded into the wall, as if it had been converted into a religious houfe : in the yard a winding ftone ftair-cafe is added. One arch of South-gate feems to be Roman. No doubt the walls of the city are upon the Roman foun¬ dation for the moft part, and great numbers of antiquities have been found here. In digging behind the guild-hall in Pancras-lane, they found a great Px.oman pavement of little white fquare ftones eight foot deep. A pot of Roman coin of two pecks was dug up, two years ago, near St. Martin’s church : 1 faw fome of them in Dr. Mufgrave’s poflefiion, of Gordian, Bal- binus, Philippus, Julia Mrefa, Geta, Gallienus, and the like. Mr. Loud- ham, furgecn in this city, has many of them among his curious collection of antiquities, manuferipts, &c. Mr. Reynolds the fchoolmafter is a great collector and preferver of fuch learned remains. St. Mary Arches church, and St. Stephen’s Bow, by their names feem to have been built out of Roman temples. The MOKIDVI^rVM Aiiq. zo 1723. ITER VI. J59 The bridge over the Ifca is of great length, and has houfes on both fides TAB. and both ends j a confiderable void fpace in the middle : there is a church ^ upon it with a tower-fteeple. In the Guild-hall are the pictures of general Monk, and the princefs Henrietta Maria, born at Bedford-houfe, a palace in thi's city, during the civil wars. The compofition of the ftone of this country is intirely made of little black pebbles, incrufted in a fandy matter of a red colour and mouldering nature. Leaving Exeter, my fartheil weftern longitude at prefent, I (Veered myMoRiou- courfe back again along the fea-fide, inwrapped in contemplation with the^^|^ LXXV. UndiZ qua vejlris pulfatis littora lymphis, Littora qua dukes auras diffunditis agris ! Virg. Nor could I think myfelf alone, when fo much new entertainment w^as prefented to me every minute. Much rock-famiphire grows upon thefe cliffs. The Roman road feems to have croffed the Otter at Hertford. At Woodbury is a camp. I paffed by Sidmouth, and came to Seaton, a little village upon the mouth of the river Ax. This Mr. Camden conjedlures to have been the Roman Mcridimum, and wdth reafon : it has been a great haven and excellent port, of which they ftill keep up the memory : the river runs in a large valley, having high ground on each fide : the fhore is rocky, high and fleep, confiding of the ends of hills which here run north and fouth : the ground at bottom under the rocks is marly j the waves wafh it down perpetually, undermining the Jirata of done, which from time to time fall down in great parcels. At prefent this haven mouth, which is a good half-mile over, is filled up with beach, as they call it; that is, cog- gles, gravel, fand, fhells, and fuch rnatter as is thrown up by the roll of the ocean: fo that the river water has but a very narrow paffage on the ead fide under the cliff. The beach was covered over with papaver luteum cornicu¬ latum, now in bloffom: the people in the ifle of Portland call it fquat maw, i. e. bruife herb, and ufe it in that cafe, no doubt with good fuccefs, where both intentions are anfwered, of diffolving the coagulated blood, and eafing pain. On the w^d fide, near'Seaton, upon a little eminence is a mo¬ dern ruined fquare Pharos built of brick j they remember it fixteen foot high; and two guns lie there. They fay there were formerly many great foundations of houfes vifible nearer thefea than the prefent town, but now fwallowed up ; and in all likelihood there dood the Roman city. More inward toward the land, beyond the great bank of beach, is a marfh which the fea has made, landing itfclf up when its free dux was hindered ; this is full of falt-pans, into which they take the fea-water at high tides. When they dig thefe places they find innumerable keels and pieces of vedels, with nails, pitch, anchors, &c. fix or eight foot deep, becaufe it was formerly part of the haven : anchors have been found as high as Axminder, and be¬ yond it, though now there is no navigation at all: fo great a change has Time produced in the face of Nature, upon thefe confines of the two great ele¬ ments always oppofmg each other. Sic volvenda atas commutat tempora rerum. Luor. V. Half a mile off, upon higher ground, on the wedern fide is a cadle in a pa- Money- dure, but formerly tilled, called Honey Ditches : it is moted about, and Ditches. perhaps wailed ; for they dig up much fquare done there. The place is an^‘ oblong fquare, containing about three acres ; I guefs it to have been the gar- rifon of the poi t. Jud by the prefent haven-mouth is a great and long pier or wall, jutting out into the fea, made of great rocks piled together to the i6o ITER VI the breadth of fix yards. They told me it was built many years ago by one Courd, once a poor failor, who, being fomewhere in the Mediterranean, was told by a certain Greek, that much treafure was hid upon Hogfdon hill near here, and that this memorial was tranfmitted to him by his anceftors: Courd, upon his return digging there, luckily found the golden mine, which enriched him prodigioufly j fo that at his own expence he built this wall, with an intent to reftore the harbour. The people hereabouts firmly believe the ftory, and many have dug in the place with like hopes ; and as an argument of its truth, they fay fome of his family are ftill remaining, that live upon their eftate got by him. A mile higher on the fame weftern fide of the river is Cully ford, where was the ancient road from London to Exeter palling over at Axbridge, which is now a ftony ford, with two bridges that traverfe the valley and the river, once a haven. Here have been many inns and houfes, and a confider- able town. They talk of great ftone vaults being found ; fo that it pro¬ bably arofe from the deftruHion of Moridunum, as Culliton adjacent, from it. Further, it was a corporation, and they now keep up their claim by an annual choice of a mayor, who has a mace too, but I fuppofe not of great elegance. Londinis. Lyme lies upon the fea-fide, in the cavity between two mountains, the Lyme. Londinis of Ravennas accordins; to Mr. Baxter. Here is a bold ftony fhore, LXxVl ridges of the hills jutting out into the fea ; but broken off continually, and wafted away, by the waves as before : the ground too is clay and ftone. Their method of oppofing its violence is to throw out a wall of huge dry ftones, which by time gathers the beech, and confolidates to a greater breadth. Befides, here is a great artificial pier, called the Cobb, extended to the length of looo foot with a bow into the ocean, where fhips lie fecure from the impetuous furges. Llere are two little forts, one with five, another with three guns. A large fort of fea horfe-tail grows plentifully upon thefe clayey cliffs j and many little fprings iffue thereout in the face of the briny deep, which loofen the earth, and haften its continual downfall. I took notice that the declivity of the hills, with the veins of ftone and different fir aid of earth in thefe cliffs, is ever north-weft, juft as is the appearance of the Ifle of Portland hence, and with the fame angle. The town of Lyme has a pretty good appearance. A fmall river runs in a rocky aheus through the middle of it into the fea. Moft of their buildings are of a rag-ftone, blue, not very durable. The duke of Monmouth landed at this place juft by the pier with only twelve men ; many of his party were executed on the fpot afterwards, their limbs hung up in the town. Before that time the duke of Tufcany came here on fhore in his vifit to Britain. This is called Lime-Regis. Here entering Dorfetfhire, I journeyed along the coaft, in view of the ocean, and Portland ifte growing more and more diftinft, till I came to Bndport, a large town upon a little river. Afcending a high hill, I found rnyfelf upon the great downs of chalk like thofe at Salifoury, and, much to my fiirprize, infinitely fuller of Celtic barrows than your lordftiip’s cele¬ brated plains. What matters of that fort I difcovered fhall be referred to IcENiNG- another difcourfe. A little north of Bridport I found the great Iceiiing- STREET. frreet of the Romans going to Dorchefter, which I accompanied with no fmall pleafure. 1 imagine it goes a little farther up the country than I had travelled, and hereabouts may properly be faid to begin, probably meeting the Fofs at Mondunum. The road from Moriduniim weft ward through Exeter I think ought not to be denominated either from the one or the other. I) in' f//i. / ; ■ i. m'' {. f ITER VL i6i Other, becaufe of a different direftion, winch with reafonable allowance I efteern effential: but this road v>?e are upon, which is the parallel and filler to the Fofs, from Seaton to Yarmouth in Norfolk, extends to the like quantity of 2'^o Roman miles. In this place it is called the Ridge-way, both as it rifes in an artificial ridge, and as it takes a high ridge all the way • between here and Dorchefter, having many valleys on both fides. The compofition of the road is wholly of flints gathered off the lands, or taken from near the farface : thefe were laid in a fine bank, and fo covered with turf. As I road along I found it frequently makes great curves to avoid paffing over valleys, and induflrioufly keeps on the higheil ground, and commands the profpedl of the country every where : it goes to Eggardon Agcerdon hill, as they tell me, north of Bridport j and here I fuppofe is a camp, whence the whole hundred is denominated : whether from this camp, or ’ from this road, it is plain the old Latin word is retained, agger ; therefore aggerdon^ as it ought to be wrote, is the hill intrenched, or the down where the high road runs. The kening-flreet derives its name not from beginning, but ending, at the Iceni, via ad Icenos. They fay hereabouts it was call; up in a night’s time by the devil, referring to a fupernatural agent the efreef of Roman wifdom and induftry. it enters the city of Dorchefter by the north of Winterburn at Weft-gate. In divers places they have mended it where wore out, by a fmall flip of chalk and flints, with a fliameful and degenerate carelelfnefs; fo that we may well pronounce the Romans worked with Ihovels, the moderns with tea-fpoons: befides, it is moftly inclofed and obftrudted with perpetual gates acrofs it, to the great hindrance of travellers, to whom public ways ought to be laid open and free j and the authors of fuch nufances may well be declared facriiegious. An endlefs fund of Celtic as well as Roman inquiries hereabouts, and no where lefs regarded. Dorchefter, the Roman Durnovaria^ meaning the palfage over the river, Durnova- is a good regular town, ftanding conformable to the four cardinal points, with the river on its north fide : it had four gates in the middle of each TAB. fide, was encompafled with a ftrong wall and ditch, if not two; for fo it LXXVH. feems, though now levelled into arable, to which the inhabitants hereabout are extremely prone. On the weft fide great part of the old Roman wall is ftanding, twelve foot thick, made of rag-ftone, laid fide by fide and obliquely, then covered over with very ftrong mortar; the next courfe generally leans the contrary way: now and then thi'ee horizontal ones for binding, for much flint is ufed withal. I law the foundation of it in a faw-pit laid upon the folid chalk: it is yet twelve foot high, broke through and battered every where, as if the fight of it was obnoxious : this is a ftrong manner of building, and very expeditious. Much more of this wall remained within memory. It would furprife one to think why the very ruins of it Ihould be pulled down, which muft be done with great labour, and frequently a mud wall eredled in its place. The foundations appear quite round the town ; but eaftward a ftreet is built upon it, and the ditch filled up : it is ftill called The Walls j for that way , the town is fwelled out into a confiderable village, with a church and liandfome tower, called Ford- ington, corruptly Farington. Here are three churches in the tovrn befide it. On the fouth and weft fide, without the walls, a handfome walk'of tAB. trees is planted, looking pleafantly into the fields; but the fort of them being LXXVIIL common fycamores, are incommodious by harbouring flies. The winding of the river on the north fpoils the fquare of the town that w'ay j and there is an area of a caftle, out of the ruins of which the grey friers built their T t convent: i62 iter VL convent: but now'’ all the works are wholly obliterated, religious and military. The banks of the river here are fteep, for the town ftands on high ground. Beyond the river are meadows and warm Tandy lands ; on this fide, the fine chalky downs, pleafant for riding, and profitable in excellent grain. The air muff needs be wholefome and pure, the climate warm, and a fufiicient diffance from the fea ; fo that we need not wonder if the Romans were fond of this place. The level of the old city was much lower than the prefent; for antiquities, which are found in great number, always lie deep. Some farmers were levelling another great barrow ; but the people of For- dington rofe in arms and prevented them with a laudable animofity. All this land is of the prince’s fee. I took notice of a particularity in the Rone they ufe here : it is fetched from a quarry fouthward in the way to Wey¬ mouth ; a flag-ftone, rifing in large dimenfions, but not very thick : the fuperfice of it is curioufly and regularly indented or waved, like a mat made of cables, and that very regularly: it much resembles the face of the fands upon the fea fhore, juft after the tide is gone off: it is very convenient for paving, and thofe natural undulations prevent flipperinefs, being never- thelefs level enough : they make fences for their grounds with it in many places, fetting them up edgewife in a pretty method. The Roman money dug up here are called dorn-permies^ or king Dor’s money : the reverend Mr. Place, living here, fhowed me a great collection of them. Much opu^ teJJ'ellatum has been found. As this tovm, fo Wareham below from its ford derives its name. In Lincolnfliire we call them ftill warths. From Dorchefter many Roman roads difperfe themfelves, belide the Ice- ning-ftreet, palling direCtly over the meadows to Walton : one goes by the amphitheatre fouthward to Weymouth; another by Poundbury, Stretton, to Yeovil and Ifchalis; another probably to Wareham. •Poundbury Pouiidbury, I am iutirely perfuaded, was a camp of Vefpalian’s, when «lio. Camp. was bufy hereabouts in the conqueft of the therefore ancienter than the adjacent Roman city : the fituation, the bulk, and the manner of it, fo much refembling that by Ambibury, engages me into that fentiment: it ftands half a mile weft of Dorchefter, upon the brink of the river, which is very fteep, in form fquare: the rampart high, but the ditch inconlidera- ble, except at the angle by the river j the reafon is, becaufe ftanding on high ground, they dug the earth clear away before it, and threw it intirely into a valhi?n fo that its height and fteepnefs, wherein its ftrength confifts, is the fame as if a regular ditch was made in level ground. The chief entrance was on the fouth fide ; there feems likewife to have been an entrance next the river, but made with great art; for a narrow path is drawn all along between the edge of the precipice and the njallwn, fo that it was abfolutely impoffible to force an entry that way : befide, I obferve, beyond the camp, for a long way, a ftnall trench is cut upon the faid edge, which feems defigned to prevent the afcent of cavalry, if they Ihould pafs the river : the ground of the camp rifes in the middle, as w^as ufual among the Romans in their choice. There is a tumulus too, which I imagine is Celtic, and extant before the camp was made : this levelled a little might ferve for the pra~ torium.- A very good profpeCc from hence all around. The name is taken from its inclofure as a pound j for here they call a circle of ftones round a tumulusy a pound. The other camp, called Maiden Caftle, was undoubtedly the Mfilva of a Ro. camp. Dumovaffaii garrifbn t'f' it is of a vaft extent, and prodigioufty ftrong, apparently t A broad Roman fword found here, 1688, Here is a fpring. K •> I t i 4 . Peritura Moeiaia Stylo 163 ITER VI. apparently of much later date than the foregoing, its manner favouring of inferior times of the empire : it has every where a double ditch of extraordi¬ nary depth, and a double rampire, in fome places treble or more: it takes in the whole fummit of a great hill: within it feems as if two camps, a ditch and vallum running acrofs, with each its entry of very perplexed work; feveral ditches with crofs entries lapping over one another, as we may well exprefs it; efpecially weftward, where their number may be af¬ firmed half a fcore. Certainly, for healthful air and profpedl, a moll delightful place; Heic Veneris vario florentia ferta decore^ Purpureo campos qua pingit avena colore. Hinc aura dulces^ hinc Juavis/piritus agri, Virg. and, for fight of barrows, I believe not to be equalled in the world ; for they reach ten miles. What further remains to be faid of Dorcheller, is the noble amphitheatre, of which your lordfliip firft gave me the hint j there¬ fore moll julily are you intitled to the following defcription of it. Of the ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE at Dorcheller. T here was no kind of civil edifice, or public work, more frequent among the Romans, in Italy or the conquered provinces, than fuch as related to fports and games; for that brave and wife people both judged and found that method well calculated to bring over the nations to their own language and cultoms, being agreeable contrivances that feemed rather pleafure and delight than compulfion. Such were theatres, circs, amphi¬ theatres, and the like. There were three amphitheatres in the city of Rome; that of Vefpafian, the Callrenfe, and of Statilius Taurus: and, though we find them not fo particularly taken notice of elfewhere in hillorians, yet we behold the things themfelves, whofe immenfe bulk and weighty materials have generally fo long out-faced time and weather. We may affirm, there was fcarce any colony or free city, of conliderable note, in their extenfive empire, that wanted thefe places of public pafliime j and fcarce any province now, where their footlleps at leall are not vilible, and many almoll intire, particularly what we are now treating upon, amphithe¬ atres : yet I believe it will appear a novelty to mod people, when we ffiall talk of fuch curious antiquities in Britain. But fince this time twelve- tab. LXI. months, I have feen three, one at Silchefler, another at Richborough caflle XCVll. in Kent, and this at Dorcheller in Dorfetfliire. I have been told of one With fix tire of feats, three mile off Redruth in Cornwall. Sir Chrillopher Wren is the firft perfon that I know of who gave this hint of inquiry, in difco- vering this, many years ago, in his journeys to the ifle of Portland, when he began to build St. Paul’s cathedral. Great pity it is that he did not take an exa6l defcription of it at that time, when in greater perfection, be¬ fore the gallows were removed hither by an unlucky humour of the fheriff j fince when the parapet at top is on that fide much beaten down, by the trampling of men and horfes at executions; but efpecially becaufe his great Ikill might have done it exact juftice, and by means of his pen it might have fliared in the duration of his works. In defedt of fuch illuftratioii, I hope the reader will accept of my mean endeavours to preferve fo valuable a piece of architedure, which, notwithftanding the damage above men¬ tioned, and that the area of it has been ploughed up thefe many years, will ftill give a fpedator a fine notion in the ftrudures of this fort abroad, defer- vedly 164 I T E 11 VI. vedly the admiration of travellers; and will prefent a perfon of underftand- ing, the pleafure of obferving the noble and great genius of the Romans in every prodiidlion of their hands. Nor does the meannefs of its materials debafe, but rather inhance, its value and its art j for, though lefs coftly and lafting tlian ftone and marble, of which others are generally built, yet for the fame reafon lefs liable to rapine, and the covetous humour of fuch as plunder them for other ufes : theretore I believe, in the main, it is as perfect as mofi; abroad, if not fo alluring to the eye; whence we may fuppofe it has fo long efcaped common obfervation, though clofe by a great town and road. An amphitheatre is properly a double theatre, or two theatres joined together. A theatre is a femicircle wherein are the feats of the fpedlators ; the apparatus of the adtors, or fcenes, filling up the diameter before it. But if we v/ould be more exact, we fliall obferve, it is half as long again as the radius ; for they cut off the fourth part of a circle, then the reft became the form of their theatres. Now two fuch as thefe joined together, throwing away the fcenic part, conftituted an amphitheatre; taking its name from circular vifion, and becaufe the feats were continued quite round, the faces of the people being all diredled to the centre of its excentricity: fo its ufe required, different from that of the theatre, where the company look all one way toward the ftage. But then, as Lipfius takes notice in ciifcourfing upon this topic, the lines, at the ends where they are conjoined, muft be drawn outward a little, approaching more to ftrait lines, than it becomes a true oval, well expreffed by Cafiiodorus; “ for, (fays he) the area includes the figure of an egg, which affords due fpace for com- “ batants, and more advantage to fpedfators to fee every thing by its long “ curvity or relaxed circle.” Thefe were not put in pradfice at Rome till the end of the commonwealth, and appropriated to the hunting and fighting of wild-beafts, to gladiators and the like; and at laft to fea engage¬ ments, reprefented in gallies floating upon the water, which they intro¬ duced for that purpofe. Firft of all, they made them pro tempore of timber, being two theatres, each fixed upon a wonderful axis-, and fo contrived, that when they pleafed they could turn both together, with all the people on their feats, and make an amphitheatre; of which Pliny, xxxv. 15. fpeaks with a note of aftonifiiment, as it really was. This was done by C. Curio, one of Ccefar’s party. It is worth while to read the great natu¬ rali ft’s defcant upon it. This I fuppofe gave occafion to the building of regular amphitheatres, of which Ccefar made the firft in the Campus Mar¬ tius, but of wood, when he was didlator. The firft of ftone was eredled in Auguftus his time, by Statilius Taurus, in the place of the former, which was the only one till Vefpafian, whofe work was the monftrous Colijfeeumy but finiflied by his fon Titus. This has afforded materials for many pub¬ lic buildings in Rome, and ftill boafts its immenfe ruins, as one of the greateft prodigies of the imperial city. Vitruvius mentions nothing of amphitheatres; therefore he probably publiftted his book before that of Taurus was built; as for Ccefar’s, it belonged not to mafonry, being carpenter’s work; in which he was a very great mafter, as in every thing elfe: fo that we muft form our notions of thefe things from the works themfelves, and the ruins that time has fpared. The parts of an amphitheatre are thefe; the arena or fpace within, the fcene of action ; the euripus, or river that generally encompalfed the verge of it; the podium, or parapet at bottom ; the itinera, or 'nice, which were the walks between certain feries of feats; the afcenfus, fteps or flairs; the pul- pita 'V-Vr*- ■ ‘ f , I* ff > 1 i > \ i ^eo7nc Yi£UW7n^r?i Clu^. 22. . /y 2 ^ 5 » '(•-// e. f'f-,’.y-yy^ SfMTiv <^‘' ITER VI. 165 pita or tribunalia^ a fort of covered chair of ftate, where the emperor, his legate, the praetor or chief magiftrate of a city, fat; the cathedra, wliere the fenators, foreign ambalfadors, and great perfonages, fat; the gradus, or common feats 5 the pracmdliojies, which I fuppofe baluftrades; the aditus or vomitoria, being the paflages from the ftairs withinfide to the feats, a metaphorical name, from the people pouring themfelves through them with violence; the cunei, which were the fpace of feats comprehended between two of thofe pafiages, fo called from their wedge-like fhape; the porticus, or galleries within, partly for magnificence, and partly for convenience: all thefe particulars are eafily apprehended from infpedtion of fchemes and fedlions of thefe works in many authors. Some of them could not, others need not to be in our work; therefore I fhall occafionally enlarge upon thofe pertinent to this fubjedt, as they fall in our way in the defeription. The amphitheatre at Dorchefter is fituate on a plain in the open fields TAB, about a quarter of a mile (being juft 300 of my paces) or 1500 foot fouth-LXXVH. weft from the walls of the town, delicately afeending all the way, clofe by the Roman road running from thence to Weymouth. The vulgar call it Maumbury, but have no notion of its purpofe, though it is a common v/alk for the inhabitants, and the terrace at top is a noted place of rendez¬ vous, as affording a pleafant circular walk, and a profpedt of the town and wide plain of corn fields all around, much boafted of by the inhabitants for moft excellent grain. Weftward of the town we fee the Roman camp called Poundbury, and fouthward the moft famous one Maiden caftle, both before deferibed. More foutherly all the hill-tops, as far as the eye reaches, are covered with an incredible number of Celtic barrows. It ftands upon the very edge of that part of the fields which declines gently northw^ard, or toward the town, upon a chalk, and which without doubt at firft was per- fe6l down, like that of Salifbury plain, or the neighbouring downs in the way to Bridport. One may in fancy imagine the beauty of its profpecf, and the pieafantnefs of the walk hither upon that fine carpet, when all was in its firft perfeftion; but at prefent it is ploughed up to the very fkirt of the amphitheatre, both within and without: fo foolifhly greedy are the tab. country people of an inch of ground, that they have levelled feveral barrows LXXVIII. lately in the neighbourhood, which coft more than the fpot they covered will pay in fifty years. This work of ours is raifed of folid chalk upon the level, without any ditch about it. I have endeavoured to delineate, as exadlly as I could by menfuration, the true and original ground-plot thereof, or architectonic defign upon which it is formed, from what is left by the injuries of age, of the plough, of men and beafts ; and that in its firft and genuine fcale the Roman foot, which is about an eleventh part lefs than ours. The plate N° 50, reprefents the amphitheatre as covered v/ith the tab. L. fubfellia, and as in its primitive perfection; for we may well fuppofe age has diminifliecl it on all dimenfions; and in truth it requires a great deal of thought and judgement to attempt to meafure it. It is obvious thence to obferve, in the general, its conformity with other works of this fort abroad, as far as its different materials will allow; and the great judgement of the architect in varying his fcheme thereto, fo as fully to anfwer the propofed end. It is to be noted that half this work is above, and half below the furface of the ground, as vifible in a feCtion ; lb that great part of the mat- taB. LIU. ter was dug out of the cavea in the middle; for it is a folid bed of chalk, and the reft fetched from elfewhere. I believe the method of building it, was to join folid chalk cut fquare like ftones, and that mortar made of burnt chalk was run into the joints; and probably all the outfide was neat- U u ■ ' Iv i66 I T E R VI. ly laid with fcantlings of the fame, but with the natural turf on: fo that it is not much inferior in ftrength to thofe of ftone, though infinitely lefs expenfive; but for ufe and convenience there is very little difference j and as to beauty, as far as relates to the feats, and what was vifible on the infide, cur work no doubt was very handfome, and even nov/ is a very pleafant fight. It is obferved of moft amphitheatres abroad, that they are placed without the cities for wholefomnefs, and upon elevated ground for benefit of the air, and perflation ; a thing much recomended for theatres in Vitruvius j as that of Bourdeaux, 400 paces without the city. Befides, this is very artfully fet upon the top of a plain, declining to the north-eafl ; whereby the rays of the fun, falling upon the ground hereabouts, are throv/n off to adiftance by reflection, and the upper end of the amphitheatre, for the major part of the day, has the fun behind the fpeCfators. When you ffand in the centre of the entrance, it opens itfelf with all the grandeur that can be imagined : the jambs are wore away fomewhat, and the plough encroaches on its verge every year, efpeeially the cheeks below: never did I fee corn growing, which of itfelf is an agreeable fight, with fo much indignation as in this noble concavity, where once tliQ gens fogaia, and majefty of imperial Rome, ufed to fhow itfelf. The conjugate, or fliorteft diameter externally, is to the longeft as 4 to 5 ; that of the area within, as 2 to 3 : this is the fame proportion as of the amphitheatre at Lucca, which is 195 brachia in length, 130 broad : a brachium is about 23^: of our inches : it is 25 high. In ours therefore the two centres upon the tranfverfe diameter, or longefl: that form it, are 100 feet diftant: the ends of the oval are ftruck with a radius of 60 feet fet upon each of thofe centres. The centres that defciibe the fide-lines are formed by fetting off 8 ^ feet on each fide the diameter, from the centre of excentricity. Thus from thefe four centres only the whole is delineated, and that moil eafily and naturally; whence I fufpeCl Defgodetz, in laying down his plot of the Coli- fcuni, has without necelfity employed no lefs than eight centres, which is an operation of great perplexity: but ftill we except the circle in the mid¬ dle, which fo remarkably diftinguifhes this from all other works, and which gives fo great a beauty to the fcheme: this is that artful contrivance fup- plying the place of portico’s, flair-cafes, vomitoria, and all the coflly work in the grander amphitheatres, for ready conveyance of the fpedlators in and out to their proper places : it is defcribed from the common centre of the whole, and in the ground-plot is a true circle j but upon the place becomes a w'alk of eight foot broad, gradually afcending, from the ends upon the long diameter, to its higheft elevation in the middle upon the fhort dia¬ meter, where it reaches half-way up the whole feries of feats of the fpec- tators, who marching hence diftribute themfelves therein from all fides wdthout hurry and tumult. On the top is a terrace twelve feet broad at leafl, befide the parapet outwardly five feet broad, four high. There are three ways leading up to this j at the upper end of the work, over the cave, one ; and one on each fide upon the fhorteft diameter, going from the elevated part of the circular walk : horfes very conveniently, feveral a-breaft, may go upon this, and frequently do, afcending by the ruin of the cave, but not on the outw^ard fteep. The parapet is now three or four foot high, but much ruined on that fide next the gallows fmce laft year, at an exe¬ cution : not only fo, but I faw a mixen heap laid under it on that fide ; and I'ome vile fellow had been digging down part of the amphitheatre to lay among it for compoft. There is fome enormity, if one examines this work in mathematical ftri^lnefs without proper judgement: becaufe it ftands on a NN § 'V x Sj i '' ’ iVil:' V'," ' Vi- ■• IV > '■ '/ ' iV' '-. -i. '■> • ,,FAir . / - i? -. ■ ■■/ ’■ft- - W.'V,;' ,«”..iV<-.. yc' , / ' -v. ■ ■'- ' ■' fe'v" .- ': ./ ■■ '-3V' ,. * *' * ‘iMJi-.l .'A-v •;•<•:.• ■1 ‘^‘ •■ .••ijj.Vfj.tV,,v. I'•*•^^. /^ ' ‘ . %' % *•!'* ' •'4 ■'■.-i'.i V-'^-: 4 ' ■ - '.TtV^ '''h ' ^Y •S':' : • 4 ^ <1, ■': • '“'/O' ^-7■“/">/'' Z/vr//^ /7rv///Z/^ . ITER VI. 167 a. declivity, fame parts of the out-fide are higher thaPx others, not only as to the fame fide, but as to the fame part on different fides; the plain on which it ffands, declines to the north-eaft: hence the outer fide of the work is higher there than in other places ; therefore in my feftions and ground-plot I endeavour to reduce it to a medium, and the meafure which feems to have been the primary intent of the architeft. The cave, or receptacle of the gladiators, wild beaffs., &;c. I fuppofe to have been at the upper end, under the afcent to the terrace, being vaults under that part of the body of the. work : whether they were of the fame chalk, or timber, or whether they were arched with brick or ftone, or what other matter, I cannot fay; but the ruin thereof feems to be the reafbn of the piefent deformity at that end ; fo that it is not eafy to guefs at its original profile. We may obferve that the parapet and terrace go back there, and, taking a new fweep, fall beyond the line of the outer oval; for two reafons, as I conceive : ih, Becaufe by that means there is a greater length obtained for the afcent to the terrace, which makes it more gradual and eafy : adly. Thereby more fpace is procured for the apartments of the prifoners underground. By the fedfion lengthwife, it is eafily underftood i'AB.LllL that I fuppofe a palfage quite through, or fubterraheous gallery upon that end of the longeft diameter, under the afcent to the terrace, from the out-fide Voi. into the area : this muft open at the bottom of the podium-, as was prac- tifed in other v/orks of like nature, with a fquariih door, as Varro telis us, de re rujiica. “ The door (lays he) ought to be low and narrow, of that “ fort which they call a cochlea, as is wont to be in the cave where the bulls are fhut up for fight.” The entrance to this place might be from without-fide the amphitheatre : here is no want of room for the door within j for the level of the area was at lealf twelve feet lower than the podium, like our pit at the play-houfes; and it is probable there was a defcent of the whole level this way, to draw off the rain into fome fubterraneous palfage : the podium in the caPre 7 ifian amphitheatre is monftroufly high. Our area, no doubt, is exceedingly elevated by manuring, ploughing, and ruins : yet it preferves a dilh-like concavity, through innumerable injuries; for the defcent from the entrance is very great, and you go down as into a pit. I conjedlure the middle part of the area is now ten foot lower than the level of the field: but the field itfelf, efpecially about the entrance, is much lowered by ploughing, becaufe the end of the circular walk there, which ftiould be even with the ground, is a good deal above it. The dens and caves of the wild beafcs at the great circ in, Rome were only of earth and wood, till Claudius the emperor built them of marble. This ruin at the upper end is very confiderable ; for it has fo filled the arena thereabouts, that the cattle plough up to the very pracin^io. On the out-fide is a large round tumour, a confiderable way beyond the exterior verge, and regular in figure, which certainly has been fomewhat appertaining to the work : I could wifli that a careful perfon had liberty of digging into it. Moreover, this podium had a parapet of earth, if not a baiufcrade, as was ufual in others: behind this, upon the lowermoft feat, was the place of the fenators and chief perfons, who often had cliairs or culhions : this was the bell place for feeing and hearing, as being neareil the arejia ; whence Juvenal fays, - generofior & Marcelli s, Et Catulis Paidique mirioribus et Fabiis C? Omnibus ad podium fpedl anti bus. - So Suetonius, in Auguflo, fays, the fenate made an order, that the firif or lowefiifeat at public fpe(ftacles fnould be left for them ; probably this was broader broader than any other feat, with a greater fpace between the podium and next feat, for more eafe. The chair of ftate for xhzprator was on one fide, and probably another oppofite to it for the emperor, or his legate, which was referved empty, for ftate, in their abfence ; or for the editor of the Ihows, who was generally thus diftinguifhed ; and it is remarkable that a little prominence is ftill left in thefe very places. Thefe were fet in the middle of the podium^ on each hde, upon the lliortefl: diameter, and were covered with canopies like a tabernacle. This podium had, for greater fafety, grates, nets, and lattice work of iron, or more coldly metal, fup- ported by pillars, and the like : befide, there were rollers of wood or ivory length-wife, which hindered the beafts from climbing up, by their turning round, as is particularly deferibed by Calpurnius. And, moreover, in greater amphitheatres, there was a ditch full of water under it, called euripus., firld Introduced by Julius Caefar. In the early times of thefe buildings, the people fat all together promifcuoully j but after the emperors, the places were diftinguiflied according to the degrees of quality, fenators, knights, or common people. The knights feats were next to the fenators, fourteen deep in number j fo that gradus quaiuordecim became a phrafe for the equeftrian order. We may fuppofe thefe two degrees filed all the feats in our amphitheatre under the circular walk or afeent. The common people polfefied the remainder, or the whole concavity above the circular walk, taking the beft places as they came firft: but the uppermoft feats were re¬ ferved particularly for the women ; and one reafon of their diftance was, I fup¬ pofe, becaufe the gladiators were naked. And that no routs and confufions fhould diflurb the order of thefe folemnities, there were proper officers appointed, that took care none fliould prefume to fit out of the feats fuit- able to his degree. I imagine the terrace at top in our work was defigned for the men of arms: for they are by no means to be excluded, feeing one of the primary intents of thefe diverfions was to inure them, as well as the people, to blood and murder. Hence, before they went upon any great expedition, or foreign war, thefe feafts and butcheries were publicly celebrated: and in my opinion, the two rifing plots, that are fquarifh on each fide upon the fhortefi: diameter, were for the officers. Thefe are above the level of the walk, or terrace, and might poffibly have a tent fet upon them for that purpofe, I call tliem pavilions: they are of a handfome turn, and capable each of holding two dozen of people commodioufiy : their fide-breadth is fifteen foot; their length, i. e. north and fouth, twenty: they are fome- what nearer the upper end, notftanding precifely upon the fhorteft diameter, and four foot above the level of the terrace. I confidered with care that feeining irregularity of the terrace on both fides the lov/er end; for it is higher within fide than without, yet fo as to produce no ill effedl below, either within or without, but the contrary. I find it is a mafler-piece of fkill, and am furprifed that it has not been more defaced in fo long time. The matter is this : the'work Handing on a declining plain, this artifice was necefiary to render its appearance regular ; for when you Hand in the centre within-fidc, the whole circuit of the terrace feems and is really of one level: but on the out-fide the verge of the north-eafterly part is hoped off gradu¬ ally toward the entrance where the declivity is, conformably with it j whence the whole exterior contour appears of an equal height too: and this could not otherwife have been obtained, fince within it was neceffary to keep a true level, without regard to the outer plain. As to the feats, which I have fuppofed in plate 50, they were contrived to be twice as broad as I ITER VI. high : their height was bat a fmall matter more than a foot, and their breadth not above tv>^o feet and a half; half that fpace being allotted for the feat of the lowermoft, and the other half for the feet of the nppermod:. The declivity of thefe gradtis is juftly made within an angle of thirty degrees, the third part ot a quadrant; but this is more exact at the ends; for in the middle, or towards the (hortefl diameter over the elevated part of the circular walk, the upper feries oi feats has a fomewhat more obtufe angle j the reafon of which is obvious, to overlook the breadth of the circular walk. This is mofi: plainly feen in the feefions, and is done wdth judgement, becaufe by that means the upper edge of the amphitheatre is in a right line with the declivity. As to the difpofition of thefe feats, their method is as new as curious : it is fo contrived, that the circular walks cut the whole breadth in two equal parts upon the fliortell diameter j therefore an equal number of feats is above and under it : hence the middle feat at each extre¬ mity is in the fame level with the elevated part of the waalk. Though thefe feats in other amphitheatres abroad were made of ftone or marble, yet they were generally covered w ith boards, becaufe more wholefome; and that fomiCtimes covered with cufliions for the better fort. Dion Caflius tells us, this piece of nicety was hrft brought in by Caligula, who gave cuihions to the fenators feats, that they might not fit upon the bare boards, and TfkeJJalic caps to keep them from the fun. The vulgar had mats made of reeds. I think we may wtU infer from liencc, that the feats in our amphitheatre were covered too with plank, if not made wholly of it. The pracinBio?2es, or, as Vitruvius forcetimes calls them in Greek, diaz'.mata^ which commentators make a difficulty about, to me feem only baluhrades, becaufe he orders them to be as high as the breadth of the walk along them : belide that upon the podium^ here might poffibly be one upon the inner edge of the terrace which feparated between the foidiers and the women. The area in the middle was commonly called arciia^ from the fand it was ferown over with, for the better footing of the combatants, and to drink up the blood ; this again by intervals was frelli hrown, or raked over, to prevent flipperinefs ; for if, inflead thereof, the pavement had been brick or ftone, it would have proved highly inconvenient. Hence this word became a common appellation of an amphitheatre, and raoll ot thofe beyond fea are Hill called arena. As for the prefent name of Maumbury., perhaps it comes corrupted from the old Britifli word maingc^ iignifying fcam- num^ Jcabelhm^ the fame as our bench, from the multitude of feats therein ; the remains of v/hich in former times might very plauhbly give occafion to fuch an appellation. Or is it not equivalent to the heathen bury, from the memory of thefe pagan fports therein celebrated ? as our ancefrors ufed to call heathenifm by the general name of maumeiry, coi rupted from 7 naho- metifm : of this my friend Robert Stephens, efq; j. C. hi'li gave me the hint. Thus in Trevifa’s tranilation of Folychronicon, XIV. i8. p. 175. “ Julianus had commaunded that cryften knyghtes Hiolde do facrefyee to inaTjmettesf meaning heathen idols. Or is it from the okl-faihioned games of miimmings, fo frequent among us, derived from Mimus or Momus ? T\\^ Muni were trequently introduced into all fiiows, at theatres, amphi¬ theatres, circs, &c. Or perhaps in the fame fenfe it is to be underHood as In Ox rordlhire they call land viauin, conliiting of a mixture of white clay and chalk, Plot’s hilt. p. 240. Thz area was originally about 140 feet diameter the Hiorteit way, 220 the longeit; wherein it falis not much ihort of the com- pafs of the rnoif confiderable ones. The famous amphitlreatre at Verona i. X X IS 170 ITER VI. but 233, and 136 ; and the vaft Colifamn at Rome is but 263, 165; but, I believe, as reckoned by a larger meafure, the French foot. That at Perigufium is lefs than ours, being 180 one way, 120 the other. I find the amphitheatre at Silchefter is of the fame dimenfion with ours here, and built of the fame materials and form, as far as I could difcern, but more ruinous. Thefe places, though of abfolute necelfity open at top, v/here ufually flieltered from rain in fome meafure, and from the fun effedfually, by great fail-cloths fpread along the top from mafcs and ropes, which were managed by the foldiers of the m.arine affairs, who were more fkilful in fuch work : a fafliion firft invented by Q^Catulus when he was iEdile. The places where thefe poles were let through the cornices of the upper order, and refted on corbels, are ffill vifible in the great amphitheatres. This probably was done in ours by mafts and poles faftened into the ground without-fide, and leaning along the outfide bank ; which would give them a very advantageous turn in hanging over the top of the theatre ; for the dope of the agger externally is with an angle of forty five degrees, being half a right angle, the moft natural and commodious for beauty and force to oppofe againfl the fide weight: or they might eredl them in the folid work on the top of the terrace, feeing it has abundantly ftrength enough. But in the particularity of thefe modes no certainty is at this time to be expefted. However, by the fituation of the place, the architedf has taken great care, according to Vitruvius his rules about theatres, to obviate the inconvenience of the fun-beams as well as poffible; and that in three refpedfs. iff. As he has fet it upon a plain declining northwards, and upon the higher part of the plain ; upon the very tip where the declivity begins. 2diy. By taking the bearing of it exadlly, I found the opening, or entrance thereto, is to the north-eaft precife; hence it is very plain and eafy to con¬ ceive, that from nine o’clock in the morning till fun-fet, in the longeft day of the year, the fun will be on the backs of the fpedfators, upon the upper or fouth-wefl half of the building; which contrivance is worthy of notice : and that this is not done upon account of the city of Dorchefter lying that way, but as a thing efiential, is plain from the like in the amphitheatre of Silchefter, which opens upon the fame point, though diredlly the fartheft from the city. 3dly, The breadth of the opening or entrance, level with the furface, and oppofite to the falling beams of the fun, muft produce a very great rebatement of the heat thereof, refledfed into this vaft concave, and prove a convenience the other amphitheatres are wholly deftitute of: and this purpofe is fo much regarded, that, if we con- fider it with a fcrupulous eye, we fhall find that the weftern fide of this upper half of the terrace and the pavilion there is fomewhat broader, and nearer the upper end of the long diameter, than the eaftern. In the mid¬ way of the terrace between the pavilions on both fides and the cavea^ are ftill to be feen two round holes, which feem to be places where they fet poles to oppofe againft thofe others leaning on the out-fide that bear the fail-cloths. The fedtion or profile of this work is contrived with exquifite judgement in proportioning its parts j for the eye of a man ftanding at the moft retired part of the terrace next the parapet is in the right line of the declivity v/ithin fide ; of a man ftanding in the middle of it, his eye fees th.e heads of the fpedfators fitting under him on the upper fubfellia, even with the line of the circular walk ; the eye of him ftanding on the edge of the terrace, fees the heads of thofe on the lowermoft fubfellia^ even with the edge of the podium^ and commands the whole area : therefore we may conclude lyi ITER VI. conclude none were permitted to ftand on the circular walk, for that would have obftrudled the fight, but it was left open for palTage. I took notice before, that on both fides, the terrace at the top of the lower half feemed to me narrower than that at the other and principal half: whether fo originally, and for fake of any advantage to be had in this refpeft, and that the meaneil: of the people flood here, or that it has happened to have been more wailed away fince, I cannot be pofitive; but I judged it not material enough to be regarded in the fcheme: for, in the main, I found the breadth of the fide of the work, or fblid, taken upon the ground-plot, is equal to half the longefl: diameter of the area, or a fourth of the whole longefl diameter. Its perpendicular altitude, from the top of the terrace to the bottom of the area^ is a fourth of the longed diameter of the area. In the middle of each fide we may obferve a cuneus, or parcel of the feats, of near thirty feet broad, jufl over the mod elevated part of the circular work, and reaching up to the terrace, which fwells out above the concavity of the whole, and anfwering to the rifing ground in the middle of the ter¬ race, which we call the pavilions, and have adigned for the feats of the officers among the foldiery. This is upon the fhorted diameter, and over the tribunalia of the emperor and praetor j and confequently cuts each fide of the upper Jeries of feats above the circular v^alk into two equal parts. I have gueded only at thefe reafons for it, which I leave to better judgements. One might poffibly be, to give a greater beauty to the range of feats over the circular walk by its break, which is a thing not pradlifed at all in other amphitheatres, unlefs we fuppofe this effedl produced by thdi vonn'tcria : or is it not more necedary here, becaufe of the circular walk, v/hich caufes the Jeries of feats above them to be broader at the extremity than in the middle, and therein different from the afpedl of common amphitheatres ? Or was not this dividon ufeful in diftinguiffiing the great length of that Jeries into feparate compartments for two different fort of plebeians ? Or is it neceffary to diftribute the three orders of people ; the fenators under the circular walk to the podium, whofe place in general was called orchejira ; that half of the upper feats on the upper or fouth dde of this protuberant part, to the equeftrian order 3 that on the lower or north fide, to the people or vulgar ? But there feems to be another likely reafon, that every feat here was divided into two (at leaft fome part of it) in the nature of Heps, as was pradlifed in particular places of all other amphitheatres : and perhaps there were three of thefe ranges of fteps, one in the middle, and one on each fide : that in the middle was for the officers to afcend from the circular walk to their tribunals, or tents, fet upon the raifed part of the terrace, whilft the common foldiers went up by the afcent over the cave, at the upper end. The ffeps on each fide led to the refpedlive halves of the upper feries of feats above the circular walk. All which ufes to me appear convenient and necefiary for eafe, regularity, and decency. In the upper or fouth-wefl half of the internal fiope have been fome deformities, caufed by the inner edge of the terrace in fome places cut or fallen down, which fpoils the curve a little: and, as the lower terraces diminifii gradually from the pavilions to the entrance, that on the weftern end has received great damage over and above j for the inward verge of it has been thrown down intirely : as for that north-eafierly half of the terrace, which we faid was narrower, more expofed to the fun, and for that reafon allotted to the laft rabble, we leave them to fcrambie up with fomewhat more labour over the whole feries of the feats at that end, which we may reafonably judge were lafi: filled by the fpe6lators. Thefe / ^ ITER VI. . Thefe noble buildings, wliich were of a nne invention, and well calcu¬ lated for their afes, were moft frequently called, from their hollow figure, cavea ; of which there are many quotations to be had out of the old poets, and other vrriters : and originally it w'as inherent to theatres ; in which fenfe commonly ufed by Cicei'o and others, but at length palled chiefly to amphitheatres, as the greater v/orks. The matter of fome was brick, as that near Tiajedlo in the Campania of Italy ; another at Puteoli ; others (tone, and others folid marble; as that famous one at Capua, another at Athens, and that at Verona. The amphitheatre which is ftiil in part to be f;en at Poia in Iftria, vras of ftone and wood too; for the whole frame of the feats w'as made of timber, the portico’s only, or external part, of fl'oiie. The wdt of man could not find out a fitter fcheme for commodious- nefs of feeing and hearing : and in fome refpeff, I conceit, they had an eye to the form of their harps, fiddles, and hich inftruments of muflc, as modulate founds in a roimdifli cavity: the oval turn thereof, and the folidity of the materials, had all the requifltes of receiving and returning the vibrations of the air to greater advantage. Vitruvius advifes, in this cafe, that the place, as well as the fluff, wherein thefe buildings are fet,. and of which they are compofed, muft not be what he calls jiwd, fuch as deaden the found, but make fmart repercuflions, and in juft fpace of time; w'hich is of great confequence in the plniofophy of echoes ; for if the voice ftrike upon a folid that is not harmonious in its texture, that is, whofe paits arc not of a proper tone or tenfenefs, not confentaneous to the vibra¬ tions of mufical notes ; or if this folid be too near, or too far diflant, fo that it reverberates too quick, or too flow, as a room too little, or too great; all the main bufmefs of hearing and founds is difturbed. Vitruvius is very large upon this head, to whom I refer the reader. Now I fuppofe the ancients learnt by experience and trial, as well as by reafoning upon the nature of things, that fuch a capacity and compafs, and of fuch extent, was befl for this end ; whence we find, that all their amphitheatres are much about the fame bulk, and executed upon nearly the fame proportions. A thing of this kind deceives the eye without ftiidl confideration; for it is bigger than it feems, and a perfon in the middle of it, to one upon the terrace, looks lefler than one would imagine. It is true indeed, that ours is not made of fo folid materials as brick, ;flone or marble; but yet it is poilible there may be as much an error in one extreme as the other, and nature aifefls a mediocrity. One fnali fcarce doubt that a convallis, or proper convexity between two mountains, will give as fine an echo as any artificial work that can be contrived. I can fay, however, in favour of the fubjeefl we are upon, that in effeef it has a very fine and agreeable found, (as I purpofely feverai timies tried) and feems to want nothing of the com- pafl'iiefs of matter, or clofenefs of the place, though doubtlefs much defi¬ cient in the original depth, which v/ould improve it. An echo here is not to be expedfed, the return being too quick ; but after the voice you hear a ringing, as of a brafs pot, or bell; w'hich ihov.^s the proportion v;ell adjiifted: and perhaps, if we confider tlie great numbers of the flair- cafes and openings, or what they call vomiloria, in the other amphitheatres, for the people to come in and go out at, which are intirely wanting here; v/e may not be far to feek for the reafon c f it, or fcruple thinking ours to be the better model: the fides being perfedfiv uniform, and free from thofe frequent apertures, feem better adapted for the rolling, concentring, and retorting the voice. It is not unlikely that fome may think the great gap aiid difeontinuity of our entrance an obflacle in the cafe; bat to fuch I would 173 ITER VI. would propofe a qucere^ Whether that fingle break, which bears fo fmall a proportion to the whole, in account of thofe beft Ikilled in the doftrine of acoufiics^ be not by far more inconfiderable in that point, than the multi¬ plicity of thofe other pafTages which we fee in all drawings of this kind ? Or whether again it be not a real advantage to the found ? as is the hole in the founding-board of a fiddle, harp, harpfichord, or the like inftrument; or when two holes are made, as frequently ; but, if there were twenty inftead thereof, probably it v/ould be injurious, though of lefs bulk when all put together. Perhaps the air intirely pent up in this great hollow, without any collateral aperture, may be obftru6led in the varieties of its neceflary motions and reflexions, fo as to delight the ear: and I muff pro- fefs myfelf of this opinion, which feems confirmed by Nature’s abhorrence of fuch figures, in the confiant outlets of valleys fome way or other. It is certain, whatever effeX the entrance has as to the found, it mufi be highly ufeful in cooling the place, in admitting the breezes of the north-eafterly air from over the meadows to refrefii them ; and the fide of the oppofite hill beyond the town, diverfiSed with hedge-grows, prefents a beautiful fcene to the better fpeXators : nor is the prefent town deficient in contributing to the landfcape : for, as you advance from the arena toward the entrance, the two handfome towers of the churches appear very agreeably at each cheek of the entrance. But we have reafon to content ourfelves with the plain matter of faX, and need not enter into a difpute, whether necellity or choice determined the Romans here to ufe the prefent materials, or whether the entrance was originally of the manner we fee it: it is certain, that in all the places where I have fecn thefe amphitheatres, the P^^oman walls that incompalied the towns are frill left, built with ranges of brick, fione, flint, and indif- foluble mortar ; fo that ignorance of building cannot be laid to their charge. Nor is this praXice wholly confined to cur illand, and without parallel; for there is now in France an amphitheatre, not improperly to be reckoned of this fort, whereof Lipfius gives us a large account: it is at a place called D oveon, near Pont du fey, upon the river Loire, as you go from Anjou to PoiXou ; a place where the Druids are faid to have had a feat; this is cut out of a mountain of fione, but of a very foft kind, and, I fuppofe, not much better than our chalk: it is not near fo big as ours, and much inferior in beauty and convenience: here are chambers hewn out of tlie rock for the caves and the area is but very fmall. The feats of the thea¬ tre of Bacchus at Athens are fiiil vifible, cut out of the natural rock. It is not much to be doubted, that in many places in France, and other pro¬ vinces of the Roman empire, wheie the fame chalk is the foil, there are fuch as ours, though as little regarded : and we may realbnably think, in the beginning of the commonwealth, before art, luxury, aird magnificence had got to its highefi pitch, that the Romans themfelves were contented with fuch of grafiy turf. The people of Rome originally fiood at the games. Cicero, de Amicit, c. 7. fays, jiantes plaudebant in re Jitla. So Tac. Annal. XIV. 20. “ If you look back to cufioms of antiquity, the people fiood at “ the fiiows; for if they had been accommodated with feats, they would “ have idled the whole day away at the theatre.” Valer. Max. xi. 4. fays, “ it was ordered bv the lenate, that no one fnould fet benches for fhows “ in the city, nor within a mile of it, or fliould fee tlie games fitting, that “ the manly pofiure of fianding, the peculiar note of the Roman nation, fhould be obferved even at diverfions.” If any one had rather think, that ours never had any feats, but that the people fiood upon the plain Y y grafiy 174 I T E E, VI. grafi'y declivity, I iliall not be averfe to it, and the rather becaufe it is your lordlhip’s opinion : yet it leemed to me, viewing the fides very curicuily, when the fun flione upon them with a proper light and (hade, that I could fee the very marks of the poles that lay upon the hopes, whereon the benches were fafcened. Ovid, de arte amandi ^ fpeaking of theatres, fays the feats were turf. In gradibus fedet populus de cefpite faBis^ Iliialibet hirfutas Jronde tegente comas. On grafly feats of turf the people fate, And leaves of trees Theifalic caps fupply. This of ours feems to be a better method than that in tlie amphitheatre at Polaj and, if it is readily owmed much inferior to thofe at Rome, yet even thofe w^re exceeded by the noble Greek architects, efpecially by that moft admirable theatre near the temple of ^Tfculapius in Epidaurus, of which Paufanias, an eye-witnefs of both, fpeaks in argolicis: “ for, though it is not fo big as fome others, yet for the art of it, the nicety of its “ conftituents, and for beauty, who dare contend with Polycletus, who ‘‘ was the architect of it ?” fays he. As it is not my intent to write a complete hiitory of amphitheatres, or further than v/bat is neceifary to our prefent purpofe, and to give a clear underftancling of our work ; fo I forbear faying any thing of the manners, times, qualities, and circumitances, of the games here praCtifed, but fup- pofe them much the fame in all points with thofe ufed at Rome, and other places, and w ith fuitable grandeur and magnificence j whether in relation to hunting or fighting of wild beafrs, of the fame or different kinds, with one another, or with men ; of the gladiators, wreftlings, of the pageants called by the ancients pegmata^, whence our word feems derived; of the (howers of faffron water to refrefli the fpedlators j of the gods thefe places were dedicated to, and their feftivals: the w'hole of thefe matters, by thofe that have a mind to make themfelves acquainted therewith, is bed learnt fi'om authors wdio have largely and profeffedly handled the fubjeef ; fuch as the learned Liplius before quoted, Donatus, and many more Pitifeus will inform us of in his Lexicon. It is not to be queftioned, that the Romans, who had fo firmly fettled themfelves here for the fpace of 400 years, were for elegance and politenefs much upon the level with thofe of the continent. But amongft other (hows and diverlions of beads, we may iafely imagine that our Britifh bull-dogs bore a part, dnee the Romans brought them up for the ufe of the Italian amphitheatres. Claudian fpeaks of them thus, Magnaque taurorum fraBuri coll a Britanni. But fee a large and learned account of them from ancient authors in Mr. Camden’s Plarapdiire, pag. 119. 1 (hall give the reader a plain calculation of the number of people, that might commodioudy be prefent at the folemn fports and diverlions, made generally upon holy-days and great fedivities of their gods. The people hereabouts told me, that once they executed a woman for petit-treafon, in the middle of the area, by burning j which brought all the country round to the light, and filled the whole place: they by a grofs guefs fuppofed there might be 10,coo. But if we allow a foot and half for each perfon fitting, and the number of feats, as I have delineated it, 24 ; then one fide of the building fpread in piano will form a conic jruflrurn 440 feet long at top, 280 at bottom j taking the medium number 360, multiplying it by 24, it gives 175 ITER VI. gives us 8640 feet; from w'hicli take off a fourth part, to reduce it to (ingle places of a foot and half, there remain 6480 places on one half of the amphitheatre ; double this for the other fide, and you produce 12,960 fingle places for fpectators upon the whole range of feats. ' For fear of exceeding the truth, I omit all that might occafionally ffand on the terrace at top, the afcent up to it, and on the entrance. It would be vain to talk of the exaft time, or the perfons concerned in building this amphitheatre; but my friend Mr. Pownall of Lincoln, before fpoken of, has a filver coin of Philippus, ploughed up in the very place. imp. m. jiil. phi lippus aug. ^ Icetit. j undat, a Genius with a garland in his right, the helm of a flrip in his left hand : the legend of the reverfe, I muff own, feems ffrongly to intimate he made or repaired this work, or that fome folemn fports were here performed in his time ; notwithffanding his melancholy and cynical nature, which Sext. Aurelius gives us an account of, or that he was a chriftian. He reigned about A. D. 240. yet I chufe to think it is of a higher date. Tacitus tells us, fo early as the time of Agricola in Titus his reign, they began to introduce luxury among the Bri¬ tons ; for he exhorted them privately, and publicly affifted them, to build temples, places of public refort, and fine houfes j and by degrees they came to thofe excitements to debauchery, portico’s, baths, and the like, of which we frequently find the ruins. Therefore we may fuppofe amphi¬ theatres were not forgotton ; and probably this was not later than that time, fo near the fouthern coaff, (which among the Britons themfelves was the moft civilifed) fo rich and fine a country : for Titus his father Vefpafian, partly under Claudius the emperor, and partly under Aulus Plautius his lieutenant, conquered all the parts hereabouts (as we mentioned in the beginning of this letter) where he fought the Britons thirty times, fub- dued two of their moft potent nations, took above twenty of their towns, and the whole Ifle of Wight. No doubt but the people, inhabitants of this country, the Durotriges^ and the town of Dorchefter, Durnovariay were included in his conquefts; and they, whatever reign it was in, for their entertainment, eredled this noble work j of which, in comparifon of our modern bear-gardens, and places of prize-fighting, I fhall venture to give it as my fentiment, Hunc ho 77 iines dicanty hos JlatuiJfe feras. 7 Nov. 1723. ITER ViaTrino- VANTiC A. ITER SEPTIMUM ANTONINI AUG. VII. jidde tot egregias urbes ^ operumque laborem, Tdot conge ft a manu pra'ruptis oppida [axis, Fluminaque antiquos fubierlabentia muros. Virg. Geor. 11 . ro ROGER GALE, T he reafons I have to addrefs the following journey to you, are both general and particular ; of the firft fort, the title affixed to it could not but put me in mind of your claim to thefe kind of difquihtions from any hand, whofe excellent commentary on Antoninus’s Itinerary has defervedly given you the palm of ancient learning, and rendered your cha- radler claffic among the chief reftorers of the Roman Britain. But I am apprehenfive it will be eafier to make thefe papers of mine acceptable to the world, than to yourfelf, both as the moft valuable part of them is your own, and as I purpofe by it to remind you of favouring the public with a new edition of that work, to which I know you have made great additions ; and in this I am fure they will join with me. The honour you have indulged me of a long friendfhip, the pleafure and advantage I have reaped in travelling with you, and efpecially a great part of this journey, are par¬ ticular reafons, or rather a debt from rnyfelf and the vrorld, if any thing of antique inquiries I can produce that are not illaudable, if what time I fpend in travelling, may not be wholly a hunting after frefli air with the vulgar citizens, but an examination into the works of nature, and of paft ages. I have no fears, that aught here Vv^ill be lefs acceptable to you, becaufe perhaps in fome things I miay differ from your fentiments : the fweetnefs of your difpohtion, and your great judgement, I know, will difcern and applaud what is really juft, and excufe the errors : difference of opinions, though falfe, is often of great fervice in furthering a difcovery of the truth : to think for one’s felf is the prerogative of learning ; and no one, but a tyrant in books, will perfecute another for it. It is certain, Antoninus his Itinerary is an endlefs fund of inquiry. I doubt not but in future refearches I Ihall be induced as much to vary from m.yfeif as now from others; and, after our beft endeavours, fuccecding writers will correct us all. The laft fummer 1 travelled this whole Seventh Journey, and in the order of the Itinerary; but I took in feveral other places by the way, which relate to the clearing fome parts of other journeys. Parallel to tlie great Icening-ftreet, runs another Roman road from fouth-weft to north- eaft, 177 T T E Ii VII. eaft, through London, beginning at the fea-coaft in HampHiire by Rumfey, and ending at the lea-coaft in Suffolk about Aldborough. The name of it is utterly loft : if I might have the liberty of adigning one, it ftiould be ‘via Trinovantica-, as it tends to the country of thofe people; and names are necelfary to avoid confuhon. The lower part of it, or that .com¬ prehended between London and Ringwood upon the edge of Dorfetftiire, is the fubjedt of this journey j but becaufe I have already given an account of feveral towns that relate to the Xlilth and XlVth journeys of Antoninus, which have fomie connexion with this, and that I conceive they are con- fiderably faulty in the original, I fliall run through fome few more I had opportunity to fee, and offer my conjedfures towards the reftitution of thofe journeys. Upon the great m.oor between Bagfliot and Okingham, near Eaft-Ham- fted park, vve faw a large camp upon a hill doubly ditched, commonly called Caefar’s camp, as many more without any reafon : there has been a well in it, and both Roman and Britifli coins have been found there, one of Cunobelin in filver: its figure is not regular, but conformable to the top of the hill : near it are two large barrows, Ambury and Edgcbury. At Berkham by Okingham I bought a very elegant Britirh coin of gold, dug up by a woman in her garden : it is of the moft ancient kind, and without letters. I faw a Britifli gold coin found near Old Windfor^ another dug up, 1719, at Hanmer hill, betv/een Guildford and Farnham. All the country hereabouts, and to Silchefter, is clay, moor, gravel by fpots, much boggy, fpringy land, much good land, but more bad : the water is blackifh every where. Silcheder is a place that a lover of antiquity will viftt with great delight: it ftands upon the higheft ground thereabouts, but hid with wood, which grows very plentifully all about it. Many were the Roman roads that met here, though now fcarce any road ; which is the reafon it is fo little known : it is hkewife incon¬ venient for travellers, becaufe no inns are near it j and it may be fervice- able to tell the curious, that Aldermafton is the neareft town where lodging is to be found, three miles off j for at tlie place we may truly fay. Rarus & antiquis habitator in urbi bus errat. The v/alls of this city are ftanding, more or lefs perfect, quite round j perhaps the moft intire of any in the Roman empire, efpecialiy the whole north fide of the v/all, which is a moft agreeable fight. The compofition is chiefly flint for the fpace of four foot high, then a binding of three layers of rag-ftone laid flat: in many places five of thefe double intervals remain for a great length. There was a broad ditch quite round, and now for the moft part impalfable, and full of Iprings. Here and there Roman bricks are left in the wails. Though on the out-fide they are of this con- fiderable height, yet the ground within is fo raifed as nearly to be equal to the top, and that quite round crowned with oaks and other timber-trees of no mean bulk, and which Mr. Camden takes notice of in his time. Not long fince, lady Bleflington cut 500 1 . worth of timber from thence. Gildas fays, Conftantius the fon of Conftantine the Great built it, and fowed corn in the track of the walls, as an omen of their perpetuity f* indeed, now the whole city is arable 3 and among the fields Roman bricks, bits ot pots, rubb’.fli of buildings, are fcattered every where, and coins are picked up every day. It is a parallelogram whole fliorteft fide to the longeft is as 3 to 4 3 its length about 2600 feet, its breadth 2000 3 ftand- Z z ing * Alexander, at building Alexandria, marked tlie track of tire walls with bread-corn. 178 Amphi¬ theatre. TAB. XLlil. 2d Vol. ITER VIT. ing conformable to the four cardinal points: it had two gates upon its length oppofite. There is only one farm-houfe within it, and the church. To the eall, by that houfe, the foundation of the gate is vifible, and l.veral Roman bricks thereabouts. All the yards here are like a folid rock, with rubbiOi, pavements and mortar, cemented together. The late Rev. Mr. Betham, minifter of this place, a learned, curious and worthy perfon, had collected a vail: number of coins and antiquities found here: he is buried under tlie north wall of the chancel without fide : within is another monument of a perfon of quality: it is remarkable that a wall only divides them in their graves, who both met a lad and difaftrous fate at different times in the fame place, being drowned in Fleet-ditch. Onion-hole, in the middle of the fouthern wall, is a place much talked of here by the ignorant country people, wRich is only an arch in the foundation for the iifue of a fewer: they have a like ftory here of this city being taken by fparrows. I faw a filver coin of Philippus, and a brafs one of Conftantine, and many more. A fpring arifes from under the w^all at the church-yard. The ifreets are fiiU vifbie in the corn. Rings with Rones in them are often found, among infcriptions and all forts of other antiquities. Five hundred foot without the city, on the north-eaft corner I efpied another great curiofity, which the people think was a caftle : I prefently diicerned it to be an amphitheatre: it is in bulk, in fhape, and all points, tlie fame as that at Dorchefter, but not built of fo folid materials; for it is chiefly clay and gravel; it Rands in a yard by the road fide, near a ruinous houfe and barn, upon a doping piece of ground : eaRward toward the road there is a pit : there it is fixty foot high on the out-fide. The whole area or arena within is now covered with water, but they fay it is not much above three foot deep : the bottom of it, and the work, muR certainly be exceeding folid, and well compadfed, to retain the water fo many years vrithout draining through ; it is a moR noble and beautiful concave, but intirely over-grown with thorn-budies, briars, holly, broom, furze, oak and alb trees, &c. and has from times immemorial been a yard for cattle, and a watering-pond ; fo that it is a wmnder their trampling has not defaced it much more. I examined this fine antiquity with all the exadfnefs podi- ble ; the terrace at top, the circular walk, the whole form, is not obfeure : it is pofited exadfly as that before deferibed, with its longed diameter from north-eaR to fouth-weR ; its entrance north-eaR, though fartheR from the city. There is an afeent to it from the entrance fide, that being upon the lowed ground : at the upper end, the level of the ground is not much below the top of the terrace, and vaRly above that of the arena ; fo that I conceive the better fort of the people went that v/ay diredfly from the city into their feats: there is Rich a gap too in that part, from the ruin of the cave where the wild beads were kept. An old houfe Randing there with an orchard has forwarded its ruin from that quarter ; and they have levelled fome part of the terrace for their garden. Surveying the whole could not but put me in mind of that piece of Roman magnificence, when the em¬ perors caufed great trees to be taken up by the roots, and planted in the amphitheatres and circs, pro tempore^ to imitate foreRs wherein they hunted beads ; which here is prefented in pure nature. Riding along the road on the north fide of Silcheder, I left it with this reflection : Now a perfon of a moderate fortune may buy a whole Roman city, w^hich once half a kingdom could not do ; and a gentleman may be lord of the foil where formerly princes and emperors commanded. To the wed of the place, but at fome didance, runs a high bank overgrown with trees hZ- Qfr 179 ITER VII. trees feemingly north and fouth : they fay there is another fuch, foiith of the city ; which would make one fufpe6l they were raifed by fome befiegers. Farther on I crofled a great Roman road coming from Winchefter: they call it Long-bank and Grimefdike. I have very often found this name applied to a road, a wall, a ditch of antiquity; which would make one fancy it is a Saxon word fignifying the witches work; for the vulgar generally think thefe extraordinary works made by help of the devil. They told me it goes through Burfield and Reading. Towards Winchefter I could fee it as far as the horizon, perfedlly ftrait, ten miles off. We may fay with tlie poet, Telhis in longas eji patefaBa vias. Tibull. Near it they talk of a ftone thrown by an imp from Silchefter walls, a mile off, which I fuppofe a mile-ftone. Mr. Camden fays a Roman road runs weftward from Silchefter, which I imagine goes to Andover. From Alder- mafton is a fine view of the country hanging over the Kennet, lately made navigable. Going from Aldermafton to Kingsclere, where once was a palace of the Saxon kings, I pafied over Brimpton common : here are many very fine Celtic barrows ; the foil is a moor full of erica., which they dig Barrows up for fewel; underneath it is fand: at Kingsclere the mighty chalk-hills Br. begin. Upon the top of a very high promontory is a fquare Roman camp, in a park. From hence to Andover is an hard way and open country. Juft before I defcended the continuation of this great ridge of hills over¬ looking Andover, I crofted a ditch like Wanfditch, hanging upon the edge of the hills, which I fuppofe fome divifion among the ancient Britons : it extended itfelf both ways as far as I could fee : the fofs is not very large, though the bank is : the fofs is northward. Andover is (not to be queftioned) the Andaoreon of Ravennas : the name Andaore- fignifies the watery habitation ; annedh, habitatio j dur, aqua. It ftands on on. the Hope of a hill juft by the fprings of the river Tees, or t'ifca'. they arife here northward of the town very plentiful, and are carried in a thoufand rills through all the meadows, till they unite and pal's under the bridge. The church is an aukward old building ; the weft door, of an ancient circular make. They are now pulling down the timber market-houfe to build a new one of ftone; the market-place is a broad ftreet. Upon a very high hill to the fouth-w'eft is a large Roman camp, feeming to be admirably well fortified : it is called Bury hill. Between this and Stockbridge is Dunbury hill, a circular camp, doubly intrenched with various works at the^^°‘ Ca?np. entrance. I travelled along a fine downy country, ’till palling the river Bourn in Wiltfhire I came to the Icening-ftreet near Haradon hill j where I intended to obferve the great eclipfe of the fun, which was to be on the next day ; of which memorable phcenomenon I judge it will not be difagreeable if I repeat what I wrote of it. To Dr. Ed?nu?td Halley. A ccording to my promife,- I fend you what I obferved of the folar eclipfe, though I fear it will not be of any great ufe to you. I was not prepared with any inftruments for meafuring time, or the like, and propofed to myfelf only to watch all the appearances that Nature would prefent to the naked eye on fo remarkable an occafion, and which generally are overlooked, or but grofly regarded. I chofe for my ftation a place called 18o ITER VII. called Haradon hill, two miles eadward from Amfbury, and full ead from the opening of Stonehenge avenue, to which it is as the point of view. Before me lay the vad plain Vv^here that celebrated work dands, and I knevr that the eclipfe would appear diredtly over it: befide, I had the advan¬ tage of a very extenfive profpe6l every way, this being the highed hill hereabouts, and neared the middle of the lhadow. Full vfed of me, and beyond Stonehenge, is a pretty copped hill, like the top of a cone lifting itfcif above the horizon ; this is Clay hill, near Warminder, twenty miles didant, and near the central line of darknefs, which mud come from thence j lb that I could have notice enough before-hand of its approach. Abraham Sturgis and Stephen Ewens, both of this place and fenhble men, were with me. Though it w^as very cloudy, yet now and then we had gleams of fun-fhine, rather more than I could perceive at any other place around us. Thefe two perfons looking through fmoaked glades, while I w^as taking fome bearings of the country with a circumferentor, both con¬ fidently affirmed the eclipfe was begun; when by my watch I found it jud half an hour after five: and accordingly from thence the progrefs of it was vifible, and very often to the naked eye ; the thin clouds doing the oiffice of glades. From the time of the fun’s body being half covered, there w^as a very confpicuous circular iris round the fun, with perfect colours. On all fides we beheld the fliepherds hurrying their flocks into fold, the darknefs coming on ; for they expedfed nothing lefs than a total eclipfe, for an hour and a quarter. When the fun looked very lharp, like a new moon, the fky was pretty clear in that fpot: but foon after a thicker cloud covered it j at which time the iris vanifiied, the copped hill before mentioned grew very dark, together with the horizon on both fides, that is, to the north and fouth, and looked blue; juft as it appears in the eaft at the declenfion of day: we had fcarce time to tell ten, when Sali (bury fteeple, fix mile off fouth- w^ard, became very black; the copped hill quite loft, and a moft gloomy night with full career came upon us. At this inftant we loft fight of the fun, whofe place among the clouds was hitherto fufficiently diftinguifhable, but now not the leaft trace of it to be found, no more than if really abfent: then I faw by my watch, though with difficulty, and only by help of fome light from the northern quarter, that it was fix hours thirty-five minutes: juft before this the whole compafs of the heavens and earth looked of a lurid complexion, properly fpeaking, for it was black and blue ; only on the earth upon the horizon the blue prevailed. Thei e was likewdfe in the heavens among the clouds much green interfperfed ; fo that the wdiole appearance was really very dreadful, and as fymptoms of ficken- ing nature. Now I perceived us involved in total darknefs, and palpable, as I may aptly call it : though it came quick, yet I vras fo intent that I could perceive its fteps, and feel it as it vrere drop upon us, and fall on the right ilioulder (we looking weftVv^ard) like a great dark mantle, or cover¬ let of a bed, thrown over us, or like the drawing of a curtain on that fide: and the iiOrfes we held in our hands were very fenfible of it, and crouded clofe to us, ftartling v/ith great furprife. As much as I could fee of the men’s faces that ftood by me, had a horrible afpecft. At this inftant I looked around me, not without exclamations of admiration, and could chfcern colours in the heavens; but the earth bad loft its blue, and vras v-zoolly black. For fome time, among the clouds, there v/ere viftbie ftreaks of rays, tending to the place of the fun as their centre; but imme¬ diately i8i ITER VII. diately after, the whole appearance of the earth and Iky was intirely black. Of all things 1 ever faw in my life, or can by imagination fancy, it was a light the moft tremendous. Toward the north-weft, whence the eclipfe came, I could not in the leaft find any diftinction in the horizon between heaven and earth, for a good breadth, of about fixty degrees or more ; nor the towm of Amfbury underneath us, nor fcarce the ground we trod on. I turned rnyfelf round feveral times during this total darknefs, and remarked at a good diftance from the weft on both fides, that is, to the north and fouth, the horizon very perfedl; the earth being black, the lower part of the heavens light: for the darknefs above hung over us like a canopy, almoft reaching the horizon in thofe parts, or as if made with fkirts of a lighter colour; fo that the upper edges of all the hills were as a black line, and I knew them very diftindtly by their fhape or profile: and northw^ard I faw perfeftly, that the interval of light and darknefs in the horizon was between Mar- tinfal hill and St. Ann’s hill; but fouthward it was more indefinite. Ido not mean that the verge of the ftiadow palled between thofe hills, which were but twelve miles diftant from us : but fo far I could diftinguifti the horizon ; beyond it, not at all. The reafon of it is this : the elevation of ground I was upon gave me an opportunity of feeing the light of the hea¬ vens beyond the lhadow: neverthelefs this verge of light looked of a dead, yellowilh and greenifti colour: it was broader to the north than fouth, but the fouthern was of a tawny colour. At this time, behind us or eaftward toward London, it was dark too, where otherwife I could fee the hills beyond Andover ; for the foremoft end of the fhadow was paft thither: fo that the whole horizon was now divided into four parts of unequal bulk and degrees of light and dark : the part to the north-weft, broadeft and blackeft ; to the fouth-weft, lighteft and longeft. All the change I could perceive during the totality, was that the horizon by degrees drew into two parts, light and dark ; the northern hemifphere growing ftill longer, lighter, and broader, and the two oppofite dark parts uniting into one, and fwal- lowing up the fouthern enlightened part. As at the beginning the lhade came feelingly upon our right fhoulders, fo now the light from the north, where it opened as it were : though I could difeern no defined light or fliade upon the earth that way, which I . earneftly watched for ; yet it was manifeftly by degrees, and with ofcilla- tions, going back a little, and quickly advancing further; till at length \ upon the firft lucid point appearing in the heavens, where the fun was, I could diftinguilh pretty plainly a rim of light running along-fide of us a good while together, or fweeping by at our elbows from weft to eaft. Juft then, having good reafon to fuppofe the totality ended with us, I looked on my watch, and found it to be full three minutes and a half more : now ! the hill-tops changed their black into blue again, and I could diftinguifti ? ■ a horizon where the centre of darknefs was before : the men cried out, f: they faw the copped hill again, which they had eagerly looked for : but ftill it continued dark to the fouth-eaft; yet 1 cannot fay that ever the horizon that way was undiftinguiftiable : immediately we heard the larks chirping and finging very brilkly for joy of the reftored luminary, after all things { had been huftied into a moft profound and univerfal filence : the heavens and earth now appeared exaftly like morning before fun-rife, of a greyifti i caft, but rather more blue interfperfed ; and the earth, as far as the verge ' of the hill reached, was of a dark green or ruliet colour. I A a a As I } I 82 I T E R VII. As foon as the iun emerged, the clouds grew thicker, and the light was very little amended for a minute or more, like a cloudy morning flowly advancing. After about the middle of the totality, and fo after the emer- fion of the fun, we faw Venus very plainly, but no other ftar. Salilbury fteeple now appeared. The clouds never removed, fo that we could take no account of it afterward, but in the evening it lightened very much. I hafled home to write this letter; and the imprelTion was fo vivid upon my mind, that I am fure I could, for feme days after, have wrote the fame account of it, and very precifely. After fupper I made a drawing of it from my imagination, upon the fame paper I had taken a profpedl of the country before. I miiif confefs to you, that I was (I believe) the only perfon in England that regretted not the cloudinefs of the day, which added fo much to the folemnity of the fight, and which imcomparably exceeded, in my appre- henfion, that of 1719, which I faw very perfedlly from the top of Bofton fieeple in Lincolnhiire, where the air was very clear: but the night of this was more complete and dreadful. There indeed I faw both fides of the fiiadow come from a great diftance, and pafs beyond us to a great diftance; but this eclipfe had much more of variety and majeftic terror: fo that I cannot but felicitate myfelf upon the opportunity of feeing thefe two rare accidents of nature, in fo different a manner : yet I fhould willingly have loft this pleafure for your more valuable advantage of perfecting the noble theory of the celeftial bodies, which laft time you gave the Vv^orld fo nice a calculation of j and vvifli the Iky had now as much favoured us for an addition to your honour and great Ikili, which I doubt not to be as exadt in this as before. Amhjbury^ Wilts., May 10, 1724. Return we to matters of antiquity. Upon this very hill-top are great pits dug lately by order of my lord Charlton for clay, which they find here of a very ftiff fort, by nature let in like veins among clefts of the folid chalk: the workmen here, whilft they have been bufy in taking it up, have found many Romans coins, filver and brafs, fome very deep in the earth, as they fay; feveral of which I have now by me. I faw likewife a very fair gold ConJia?itius j the reverfe, two Genii holding a fhield, vot. xxx. ABoria Augg. It feems as if the Romans, with their wonted fagacity, had been occupied here in the fame way, to make pottery ware, and not neg- ledied to leave proof of it according to their method. I took notice like¬ wife of one fide of the fummit being covered with oyfter-fhells loofe upon the furface ^ and how they came there I could get no information. IcF.NiNG- The Icening-ftreet runs between this hill and the Bourn river, coming STREET, from Newberry, as I fuppofe, through Chute foreft, where vulgarly called Chute caufeway : at Lurgiftial it makes a fine terrace-walk in the garden of Sir Philip Medows j then paftes the Bourn river about Tudworth, and SoRBioDu- fo by this place to the eaftern gate of Old Sarum, the Roman S>orbiodunum., NUM. where it runs moft precifely north-eaft and fouth-weft, as we faid before. TAB.LXV xhis city is perfeftly round, and formed upon one of the moft elegant defigns one can imagine : probably a fortrefs of the old Britons, and I fancy fomewhat like the famous Alefia in Gaul, memorable for the ancient Hercules, its founder, and for the fiege of the great Caefar j which only his genius could have taken in his circumftances. The profpedl of this place is at prefent very auguft, and w^ould have afforded us a moft noble fight when in perfeftion: fuch a one will not be difficult to conceive when we have deferibed it. It fills up the fummit of a high and fteep hill, which originally rofe equally on all fides to 2.\\apex: the whole work is 1600 foot diameter, included S ORBIODVNVM. j. Jooo Antiquae IJrbis Cadaverinas tianftul]!' Jolies Pme Chalcog'raphns . . !/.'//> < '/c'Z/ i/cJZipiaz’zt- ) [-4 ITER VII. 183 included in a ditch of a prodigious depth: it is fo contrived that in effe6l it has two ramparts, the inner and outer, the ditch between: upon the inner, which is much the higher, flood a ftrong wall of twelve foot thick, their ufual ftandard, which afforded a parapet at top for the defendants, with" battlements quite round : upon ftill higher ground is another deep circular ditch, of 500 foot diameter ; this is the caftle or citadel. Upon the inner rampire of this was likewife another wall, I fuppofe of like thick- nefs : fo that between the inner ditch and the outer wall, all around, was the city. This is divided into equal parts by a meridian line: both the banks are ftill left; one to the fouth, the other to the north ; and thefe had walls upon them too : the traces of all the v/alls are ftill manifeft, and fome parts of them left; but we may fay with the poet of the whole, - lapjis ingentia muris Saxa jace fit, nulloque domus cujlode tenetur. Lucan. L In the middle of each half, toward the eaft and weft, is a gate, with each a lunette before it, deeply ditched, and two oblique entries j that to the eaft is fquare, to the weft round ; the hollow where the wall flood is vifible quite round, though the materials are well-nigh carried away to Nev/ Sa- rum : in every quarter were two towers, the foundations plainly appearing : then, with thofe that were upon the cardinal points, the gates and the median rampart, as it muft neceffarily be underftood, there were tv/elve in the whole circumference j fo that, fuppofing it about 5000 feet in circum¬ ference, there was a tower at every 400. Hence we may imagine the nature of the city was thus : a circular ftreet went round in the middle between the inner and outer fortifications, concentric to the whole work ; and that crofs ftreets, like radii., fronted each tower: then there were twenty-four iflets of building for houfes, temples, or the like. Now fuch is the defign of this place, that if one half was taken by an enemy, the other would ftill be defenfible j and at laft they might retire into the caftle. The city is now ploughed over, and not one houfe left. In the angle to the north-weft flood the cathedral and epifcopal palace: the foundations are at prefent fo confpicuous, that 1 could eafily mark out the ground-plot of it, as in the 65th plate : near it is a large piece of the wall left, made of hewn ftone with holes quite through at equal fpaces. One would imagine the Romans, in laying down the area of this city, had Plato’s rules in view,|| in his fifth dialogue of laws. Many wells have been filled up, and, no doubt, with noble reliques of antiquity : they muft have been very deep, and efpe- cially that in the caftle, and dug out of the folid chalk. Of the caftle-wall a good deal of huge fragments and foundations are left: a double winding flair-cafe led up to the gate, where bits of arch-work and immenfe ftrengtli of ftone and mortar remains j and within, many foundations and traces of buildings. In the north-eaft corner of the city there is another rampart upon a radiusy including a fquarifh piece of ground ; probably for fome public edifice, but what in particular, is now hard to fay. Certainly, for TAB. ftrength, j| Urbs primum in medio regionis maxime condatur, deledlo in loco qui cteteras quoque opportunitates compledlatur, quas &c concipere & dengnare minime difficile eft ; deinde, in partes duodecim diftributio fiat, ut Veftre prima Jovique atque Minerva confecretur ; & ilia urbis pars Arx nuncupetur, & fepto diligenter muniatur : & ex eo urbem & regionem in duodecim partes diftribuant: vici pr$terea in 12 partes erunt diftribuendi, ftcuti & cseterse civium facultates ut ex 12 partium conftitutione curfuum luftrationes commodius peragi poffint : 12 quoque partes 12 diis erunt deinceps attribuendae ; & unaquaeque pars, ex ejus dei nomine cui illa obtigerit, erit nuncupanda, ut tribus ipfa ftt fuo & tutelari deo cognominata ; fed ut 12 urbis membra, ftcuti in reliqua regione fadlum eft, ftngulatim in duas habitationes fuerunt dividenda, quarum una circa medium fit, altera circa extremum ; & habitationis quidem ordo & ratio hunc in modum confor¬ metur.—AU this Plato learnt from the Jewifh ceconomy. 184 Roman Brige. I T E E, VII. flrength, air, and profpedl over the lovely downs, and for falubrlty, this place was well calculated, and impregnable to any thing but death and hunger. The river Avon runs near the bottom of the hill. The hiftory of its glory, its ftrange viciffitudes, and its ruin by removal of the church to New Sarum, may be learnt from Camden, Burton, and other authors ; my bufinefs being chiefly to defcribe things : but the very fight of fuch a carcafs would naturally from a traveller extort fuch an expoftulation : Is this the ancient epifcopal fee, and the feat of warlike meiii now become corn-fields, and paflure for flieep ? Is this the place where fynods have been held, and Britifh parliaments 5 where all the ffates of the kingdom were fummoned to fwear fealty to William the Conqueror; the palace of the moft potent Britifh and Saxon kings, and Roman emperors ? and conclude with Rutilius, Nim mdigne?nur mortalia corpora fohiy Cerm?niis exemplis oppida pojje mori. Nor grieve at our own fate, fmce here we fee That towns themfelves muff die as well as we. Before the eaftern gate of Sorbiodimiim^ a branch of the Roman way proceeds eaftward to Winchefter, which has never yet been obferved : upon this goes part of the XVth imperial journey in thefe words ; Venta Belgarum^ Brige, Sorbiodammn. This way pafTes the river Bourn at Ford: the ridge of it is plain, though the countrymen have attacked it vigoroufly on both fldes with their ploughs : we caught them at the facrilegious work, and repre¬ hended them for it: then it goes between Clarendon park, and the camp of Chlorus before defcribed : on the whole length of Farley common it is very confpicuoiis, made of hard matter dug up all along on both fldes ; then afcends the hills at Winterflow, vs^hicii flgnifles the white hill j then through Buckholt foreft, where with good heed the courfe of it may be followed, though through by-ways, paftures, woods and hedges j fome- times running the length, fometimes croffing it: a little northward of Weft Titherley it goes clofe by a farm-houfe and large barn upon a rifing ground, and at the edge of a wood. This is the proper diftance of eight miles from Scrbiodunum, and was the ancient Brige ; and Roman antiquities are often found here : the Britifli name imports a town upon the top of the hill; brege, cacumen. Nunc fitus mformis premit c? defert a vetufas. Hor. All this country being part of the Conqueror’s new foreft, this colony of the Pvomans fnared in that great depopulation he made for his diverflon. It is near the brink of that woody hill, called ITorfeflioe wood from its being upon a hill, overlooking Broughton upon the river Wallop, where Mr. Camden places the Brige. A little way farther upon the fame brink, on an apex of the hill, ftands a large Celtic barrow, ditched about, called Bols turret ;-f' there are feveral other barrows thereabouts, and probably fome Roman ; for the Roman road, here called the Caufe-way, proceeds upon this edge to the river at Boffington, though fometimes intercepted by corn-fields, where the common road goes about, and then falls into it again : it pafles over the river at Boffington, then marches direffly to ¥/in- chefter weft gate. Having t It plcafes me to inquire the names of thefc old things, however aukward. Q^iaere, Whetiier it means the name of the perfon buried there, or the god worfhipped there, Baal, JBelinus ■, or that it lignihes only an eminence, bal, fd? MAECVtS Peiibroki£e,J^///?^/ Az/W/^<'Z/zz?'. ^Qrt/ce/^’jz /p. ifa////■ ITER VII. i8 Having defcribed this road, let us return to Sorhlodiinum^ in order to puiiue the Icening-ftreet: but firft give me leave to impart to the reader lomew'hat of the pleafure you and I reaped at the neighbouring Wilton. Wilton. I lhall only at this time give a catalogue of my lord Pembroke’s moft noble colle6fion of ancient marbles, which may be of ufe to the curious, in knowing the particulars of that glorious Mufaum, or that have a mind to view them. •The BUSTO’S are in number 133. The STATUES 36. The BASSO RELIEVO’S 15. MISCELLANIES 9. I. Of the BUSTO’S. i. Thole made with eyes of different matter from the buft. A Sibyl, the whole cavity of the eyes hollowed : Ariadne, with agate eyes: A Greek Cupid, with agate eyes : Drufus, Germanicus ; thefe two are in copper, finely performed, v/ith filver eyes.—2. Learned perfons. Hefiod: Homer, brought from Conftantinople, feems by its high antiquity to have been the fijif model of the father of the poets : Sap¬ pho, the inimitable in poetry; this is of the ivory marble, the laft perfec¬ tion of Greek fculpture : Pythagoras : Anacharfis, of an admirable charac¬ ter : Socrates, by the roguifh carver dreffed like a Satyr, with fharp ears : Plato, very ancient, and of a m.oft venerable afpeft : Ariftotle : Ariftophanes : Apollonius Tyanaeus, a mofi: valuable antiquity, v/ith the riglit hand and arm : Marcus Modius, an Athenian phyfician, of excellent Greek work : Epicurus, a little buft of the great atomic philofopher; Pofidonius, pre-TAB. ceptor to Cicero: Sophocles: Afpafia, who taught Socrates rhetoric: , Ifocrates : Cato major : Cicero, of touch-ftone : Horace, as fome think ; a voung bufto of fpeckled porphyry j I am inclined to believe it Ovid : Seneca: Perfius the Satyrift : Titus Livius. —3. Of colofs proportion, Arfinoe mater: Ahenobarbus, the bad father of the worfe Nero: Julia Domna, wife of Severus : Geta when young, their fon.—4. Perfons of Greece before the Pvoman empire : Cecrops and his wife reprefented as Janus: Tmolus, a moft ancient founder of a colony: Ganymede, with the Phrygian bonnet, very beautiful : Dido : Arfinoe filia : Phredra, wife of Thefeus : Damas, the learned daughter of Pythagoras : Olympias, mother of Alexander: Alexander magnus : Lyfimachus : Berenice mater : Berenice filia : Ptolemy, brother to Cleopatra : Cleopatra, wife to Anti¬ pater : Ammonius Alexandrinus, one of the Olympic vidfors: lotape, wife of Antiochus Comagenes king of Syria.—5. Confular perfons : Lucius Junius Brutus, who flew l arquin : M. Junius Brutus, who flew Caefar: P. Cor¬ nelius Scipio Africanus : Scipio Afiaticus : P. Cornelius Scipio Nafica : one of the brothers of the Horatii : Marcellus : Marius : Sulpicius Rufus : Dolabella: Cneius Pompeius magnus : Sextus Pompeius. —6. Emperors, Emprefi'es, Caefars and Augufta:, befide Geta and Julia Domna already mentioned. Julius Caefar, of oriental alabafter, the only original : Au- guftus : Julia, daughter to Auguftus, incomparably fine: Cajus Caefar: Lucius Caefar: Marcellus: Drufus fenior : Germanicus: Agrippina fenior ; Antonia, of curious marble; Tiberius, of fm.all brafs: Caligula; Caefonia, wife of Caligula ; Claudius, the conqueror of Britain : Drufilla : Mefla- lina: Nero: Sabina Poppaea, his wife, a naked bufto: Ocfavla, his wdfe: Marcia : Galba ; Otho : Vitellius ; Lucius Vitellius, brother to the em¬ peror : Vefpafian : Titus : Julia, daughter of I'itus: Domitian : Vefpafianus novus, the adopted fon of Domitian : Nerva: Trajan: Hadrian: Sabina: Antinous, Hadrian’s favourite: Antoninus Pius ; Fauftina fenior : M. Au¬ relius Antoninus Philofophus : A.nnius Verus : Lucius Verus : Commodus ; Lucilia, wife of Aflius; Lucilia junior, wife of Verus: Pertinax ; Didius B b b liilianiis ; in 186 ITER VII. JuiianuiS : Crlfpina, wife of Commodus : Septimius Severus ; Plautilla, wife of Caracalla : Julia Paula : Macrinus : Annia Fauftina, wife of Helio¬ gabalus : Julia Mammaea, wife of Verus : Julia Moefa : Lucilia junior : Alexander Severus : Gordianus Csefar : Ealbinus : Sabma Tranquillina, wife of Antonius Gordianus, emperor : Marcia Otacilla ; QMierennius, a boy : Hoiiilianus : Volufianus : Valerianus, a boy : Conftanrinus magnus the Briton, of better work than was commonly in that age, as a few of his medals were.—7. Divinities. Jupiter : Pallas : Apollo, a fine large bufi:: Diana : Venus, like that of Medicis : Bacchus : Faunus : Fauna: Libei a : Libertas : Mercury Pantheon, made of different faces. II . STATUES. A queen of the Amazons defending herfelf from a horfeman in battle : Cupid, a man, breaking his bow : Clio, the mufe, fitting : a Faunus : thefe are of moft admirable workmanfhip. Five ftatues reckoned as ancient as any in the feveral parts of the world. Egypt, Ifis with her hulband Ofiris in Theban iron ftone. Thrace, Jupiter Am¬ mon from the temple built by Sefoftris, with a ram on his fhoulders ; it is a very venerable piece. Afia Minor, Diana of Ephefus j the head, hands and feet black, the reft of white marble. Phrygia, Cupid tied to a tree j a Phrygian cap on his head. Lydia, Hercules wreftling with Achelous. Paris with the Phrygian bonnet and fl'iepherd’s coat of fkins. Saturn with an infant in his arms. The Egyptian Bacchus, of a fine fhape, carrying the young fat Greek Bacchus on his ftioulder. A fhepherd playing on the flute. A Greek Bacchus. Flora. Silenus drunk, with a club in his hand, fancying himfelf Llercules, fupported by a younger; a piece of moft imcomparable art. A boy dancing and playing on mufic. Cupid holding the golden apple. A young Bacchus fmiling. Marcus Aurelius on horfeback, made at Athens, fmall. The river Meander, recumbent. A boy in an eager pofture, catching at fome live thing on the ground. A colofs Hercules, fix Attic cubits high, with three apples in one hand. Cleopatra giving fuck to Caefarion her fon, fitting. Julia Pia Domna, wife of Septimius Severus, fitting. Livia, the wife of Auguftus, fitting. Manlia Scanlilla, fitting. Attys the Phrygian, engraved by Montfaucon without the head, which is here reftored. Mark Antony, a crocodile at his feet. Apollo. Ceres. Pomona. Andromeda. Young Hercules with the ferpents. Hercules, old, with his club. The dwarf of Auguftus. III. BASSO RELIEVO’S. The Story of Niobe, alto relievo^ very ancient: there arc twenty figures ; the marble is 240c weight; feems to Iiave been a pannel in fome temple of A^pollo, or Diana. The ftory of Meleager, being the fide of a farcophagus, ieventeen figures, mezzo relievo^ 15C0 weight, of an admirable tafte. Curtins on horfeback, leaping into the gaping cavern, of moft excellent work. M. Aurelius and Fauftina, adverfa capita^ fine v.'ork. Caracalla, a three-quarters relievo. The three Graces. One on horfeback, cutting at a foldier defending himielf under the horfe. The ancient manner of eating, Jupiter ferved by Plebe : he is accumbent. A frize of a fea-triumph, imali figures. Cleopatra with the afps in a covered vafe, alto relievo. Part of a frize from a temple of Neptune, Naiades and Tritons. A ha[fo from a temple of Bacchus, the tbyrjus., &c. K baffb relievo on porphyry of Roemitalces king of Thrace. A child ftealing fruit from the altar through a malk. IV. MISCELLANIES. A nuptial vafe, reprefenting the ceremonies of marriage. Ara Hammonis, a cube of white marble, on front the fymbol of Jupiter Hammon on a circular piece of the old Theban marble. Two black ITER VII. black porphyry pillars brought from Rome by the earl of Arundel. The column ot Egyptian granite, weighing near 7000 weight, from the ruins of the temple of Venus genetrix, built by Julius Caefar : this my lord has fet up in the front of the houfe. A very ancient altar of Bacchus, adorned with bajjo relievo's. An altar table of red Egyptian granite, large, and four or five inches thick. An antique pavement, four forts of marble, of gradual light and lhade. The antique pidlure from the temple of Juno : it is in thick ftucco. The Jarcophagus of Epaphroditus intire, finely carved with the hiftory of Ceres. The front of Claudia’s fepulchre, filler of Probus the emperor: her head is joined with his. Eighty-five termini of antique marbles, bullo’s on feventy-two of them. From the gate of Sorbiodunum the Icening-fireet goes from north-eaft toR^N fouth-well, by the name of Port lane, over the river Avon at Stretford ; then afcends the hill, and pafl'es the united Nadre and Willy near Bemer- ton, where the ftony ford is Hill very perfedl; then it goes acrofs my lord Pembroke’s horfe-race courfe and hare-warren, making a villo to M. Au¬ relius his equeftrian figure in the park. If the fpirits and genii of the ancient Romans travel this way, no doubt they will be furprifed to find themfelves fo near the Capitol. Then it traverfes the brook at F'enny- Stretford, and fo along the great downs toward Cranburn chace : here it delights one to turn and furvey its diredlion towards Sorbiodu?ium, a fweet profpedl j w^hether w'^e regard what lhare of it is due to nature, or v/hat to art; and of the latter fort, what is owing to the road, or what to the old city. As it enters the chace there is a moll remarkable diverticulum., and which notoriouliy demonftrates it w^as begun from the fouth : for here, as it came from thence acrofs the woods, where its ridge is very perfeft, made of Hone, it butts full upon the end of a vaH valley, very deep and of Heep defcent; where it was ablolutely impradlicable to carry the road on in a Hrait line : the Roman furveyor therefore wifely gave way to nature, turned the road fide-ways along the end of the valley, then with an equal angle carried it forw^ard upon the upper fide of that valley in full direction to Old Sarum. That great and wife people, though ignorant of fubmifiion, knew nature might be drawn afide, but not direftly oppofed, efpecially in works that are to be lalling : hence my intent was, to purfue this noble road as far as it would carry me j and the pleafure one perceives in fuch a concomicant is not to be imagined by any one but thofe that experience it: to obferve their methods in the condudl of fuch works, their artifices and Hruggles between induHry and the difficulties and diverfities of ground, of rivers, 6cc. and the continual prefentment of fomewhat worthy of remark by the way, renders it fliort, and vaHly entertaining; nor is the mind ever at a lofs for learned amufement. When it has palfed through the woods of Cranburn chace, and approaches Wocdyatcs, you fee a great dike and vallum (Venndike) upon the edges of the hills to the left by Pentridge, to which I I'up- pofe it gave name : this croHes the Roman road, and then palies on the othei fide, upon the divifion between the hundred. The large vallum here is fouthward, and it runs upon the northern brink of the hills; wdrence I con- jedlure it a divifion or fence thrown up by the Belga before C?efar’s time. I call this the fecond boundary of the Bclga ; two others are already men¬ tioned. I pleafed myfelf wdth the hopes of obferving the Roman road run¬ ning over it, as doubtlefs it did originally ; but juH at that inHant bctii enter a lane, where every thing is disfigured w ith the wearing aw ay and reparations that have been made ever fince. Its high ridge is then inclofed within a paHure juH at Woodyates, then becomes the common road for half I a milcj blit immediately pafTes forward upon a down, the road going oit to the right. I continued the Homan road for two or three mile, where it is rarely vifited : it is very beautiful, fmooth on both iides, broad at top, the holes remaining v/hence it was taken, with a ditch on each hand : it is made of gravel, Hint, or fuch ftuff as happened in the w'ay, moft con¬ venient and lading. There are vaft numbers of Celtic bariows upon thefe downs, juit of fuch manner and ihapes as thofe of Salifoury plain : at the hril and more conhderable group I came to, there was a moft convincing evidence of the R.oman load being made fince the barrows ; two inftances of this nature 1 gave in the iaft letter. One form of thefe barrows, for diidindtion fake, I call Druids (for what reafons I fltall not fcand here to difpute :) they are thus. A circle of about loo foot diameter, more or lefs, is incloled with a ditch of a moderate breadth and depth : on the outfide of this ditch is a proportionate njallum j in the centre of this inclo- fure is a fmall tump, where the remains of the perfon are buried, fome- times two, fometimes three. Now fo it fell out, that the line of direc¬ tion of the Roman road necelTarily carried it over part of one of thefe tumuli^ and fome of the materials of the road are dug out of it: this has two little tumps in its centre. It was now my bufinefs to look out for the Ration in Antoninus called Vindogladia, mentioned in the lall journey to be twelve mile from Sorbio- dimum. - By this time I was come to a proper diltance: accordingly I found, at the end of this heath, the road which is all along called Icling- dike, defccnded a valley where a brook crolTes it, from two villages called Glillet. At i\]i-Saints, or Lower Gliifet, there was a fmall ale-houfe, and the only one hereabouts (the Rofe :') my old landlady, after fome difcourfe prepai'atorv, informed me that at Boroilon, a mile lower upon the river, had been an old city ; and that ftrangers had come out of their w'ay on purpofe to fee it 5 that ruins and foundations were there ; that it had feven parilh-churchts, which were beaten dowm in the war time; that many old coins had been ploughed up v/hen file vras a girl, which the children com¬ monly placed Withal; but the cafe at prefent was plainly the fame with that of Old Trov, del’cribed in the ballad upon her.wull, where fne fliowed me thefe paffionaie verles, Waile lie thofe walls that were fo good, And corn now grows where Troy towers Rood. This account, fo natural, fatished me that Vmdogladia muR here be fixed, and Vdimbornminfter be robbed of that honour, where the tide of antiqua¬ rians have hitherto carried it, for no other reafon but name fake; the diRances and road being repugnant. I fuppofe the name fignines the white river, or vale ; white; gladJo, a river ; whence our glade, or val¬ ley where a river runs. This place being not capable of aftording me a proper manfion, I left the more particular fcrutiny of it for another oppor¬ tunity. Hence I purfued the read on the oppoRte chalk-hill, where they have dug it away to burn for lime, but much degenerate from Roman mortar in Rrength : it was not long before I abfolutely loft it in great woods beyond Long Crechil; but by information I learnt that it pafies the Stour at Crayford bridge below Blandford, where I was obliged to take up iny nightly quarters. I was glad to gain the downy country again weRward of it, and Rill full of barrows of ail forts by ciuRers or groups. I frequently obferved on the Rdes of hills long divifions, very Rrait, croRing one another v/ith all kinds V.-*- { Rl>77i^i /ZZ7ZZ7' Berz’ R^zJ (Ihernium) Rajf’' 9 Iim 172 . ITER kinds of angles: they look like the balks or meres of ploughed lands, and are really made of flint over-grown with turf: they are too frnall for ploughed lands, unlefs of the moft ancient Britons, who dealt little that way j but juft fuch like have I feen in what I always imagine Britifir camps. Above the town of Blandford is an odd intrenchment on a hill, a fquarifli work, with others like the foundation of fmall towers : a barrow near it. Blandford is a pretty town, pleafantly feated in a flexure of the river, before charming meadows, and rich lands. Wood thrives exceedingly here : indeed this country is a fine variety of downs, woods, lawns, arable, pafture, and rich valleys j and an excellent air : the dry eafterly winds, the cold northern, and the weftern moifture, are tempered by the warm fouth- ern faline breezes from the ocean, and neareft the fun. The incredible number of barrows that over-fpread this country from the fea-fide to North Wiltfliire, perfuade me a great people inhabited here before the Belga, that came from Spain, which we may call the Albionites : but it is not a time to difcourfe of that. This year, wherever I travelled, I found the bloom of the hedge-rows, and indeed all trees whatever, exceftively luxu¬ riant beyond any thing I ever knew. In this part the buck-thorn^ or rham- 71 US catharticus, is very plentiful; and a traveller, if he pleafes, may fwallow a dozen of the ripe berries, not without ufe. Near the paifage of the Icening-ftreet at Crayford is Badbury, a vaft Roman camp, where antiquities have been found. About three mile beyond this I found another ditch and rampart, which Wansdike I believe to be the firft of the colony of the Belgce ; it has indeed a rude ancient look j fo that they made four of thefe boundaries fucceftively as their power enlarged, the laft being Wanfdike, between North and South Wiltfhire. By what I could fee or learn, in travelling over this intricate country, the Roman road pafles upon a divifion between Pimpern and Bere hundred to Bere j and that I reckon a convenient diftance for a ftation between Vindogladia and Dorchefter, being near the middle : on one fide it is about thirteen mile, on the other nine. Now in the laft journey of Antoninus before mentioned, immediately after Vindogladia follows Durno- Ibernium. ^aria M. P. IX. Dorchefter being very truly nine mile off" this town Bere, and which is a market-town too, but far otherwife as to Wimborn- minfter j I doubt not but this is the true place defigned in the Itinerary ; but that a town is Hipped out of the copies. I think I have fortunately difcovered it in the famous Ravennas, by which we may have hopes of reftoring this journey to its original purity. That author mentions a town next to Bmdogladia., which he calls Ibernium: this verily is our Bere. Mr. Baxter correfts it into Ibelnium, and places it at Blandford, for no other reafon, as I conceive, but becaufe he imagined it muft neceftarily be hereabouts. I was not a little pleafed v/hen I found my notion highly confirmed by a great and elegant Roman camp upon a hill near Bere, I think it is called Woodbury, where a yearly fair is kept: this is between Bere and Milburn upon the river : it is doubly intrenched, or rather a ^ ° ' double camp one within another. This town of Bere denominates the hundred too. In this cafe, where a Roman camp, a road, and all di- ftances concur, • which in the others are very abhorrent from reality, I imagine the reader will find little difficulty In paffing over to my fentiments. The town is called Bere Regis, and the camp is the M/tiva to the town. Of Dorchefter I have fpoken already, beyond which is the original of the Icening-ftreet: from thence I travelled along the fouthern coafts, in order to come to the beginning of this feventh journey. C c c Wareham ■ipo Moriconi- UM. Alauna. Bolnelau NiUM. Regnum. "’AB. XLVL 2d Yol. ITER. VII. Wareham is denominated from the paffage or ford over the two rivers between which it is htuate, where now are bridges; this has been a Roman town. A great fquare is taken in, with a very high vallum of earth, and a deep ditch : there has been a caftle by the water-hde, weft of the bridge, built by William the Conqueror, perhaps upon the Roman. It is an old corporation, now decayed, the fands obftrudling the pafiage of veftels ; and Pool, being better feated, from a nftier’s town has rofe to be a rich fiourifliing fea-port, robbing this place. They fay here have been many parilh-churches, and a mint. This is probably the Moriconiiim of Raven¬ nas, as Mr. Baxter afterts. I heard of Roman coins being found here. This country is fandy for the moft part, as commonly toward the fea-coafts. I faw a ruinous religious houfe as 1 came by the fide of the river Frome. This haven is of a vaft extent, like a fea, having a narrow entry j an indul9:ent formation of Nature to her beloved iOand of Great Britain. I faw vaft ftones lying loofe upon this fand, in fome places, like the Wilt- fliire grey weathers. It is a melancholy unpleafant view hereabouts for travellers, when they come from the other delightful fcenes of the better jiarts of ijorfetftiire ; it is moory for the moft part, full of ling or heath, a. on all the fea-coafts here, from the chalk-hills in Doifetfhire to thofe in Suliex. I’wo rocks about Corf caftie have an odd appearance hence. Wimburnminfter is a fmall place, of no great trade; a large old church with two towers; the middle one in the crofs very old, and moft of the church before the time of the Conqueft ; this middle fteeple had a fpire which fell down. The river Stour runs a little way fouth of the town, through a large bridge; ftlour^ a Jibihis put to the old Celtic word. The river Alen in feveral divifions runs through the town, which makes me think it to be the Alauna of Ravennas, put next to Bolnelaunium^ which I conjedfure to be Chrift’s-church by the fea-fide, that being fubfequent to Moriconiiim : that it was not Pool, as Mr. Baxter places it, is plain from a reafon juft mentioned. Pool being an upftart. Wimburnminfter ftands in a large extended fruitful vale like a meadow, with much wood about it. Thefe rivers abound with fiih. Here was a nunnery built anno 712, by Cuthburga fifter to king Ina. King Etheldred was buried here. From hence I went to Ringwood upon the river Avon, over a deep fandy moor j v/hich has ever been thought the Regnum in the Itinerary, and begins the Iterf’ptimum of Antoninus. It is a large thriving place, lull of good new brick houfes, feated by the fide of a great watery valley, the river dividing itfelf into feveral ftreams, and frequently overflowing large quantities of the meadow: it feems well calculated to have been an eld Britifh town : they deal pretty much in leather here, and woollen ma¬ la utadtures of ftockings, druggets, narrow cloth. Roman difeoveries I could make little; but the name and diftances feem to eftablifti the matter : io I haftened through New Foreft, where I found it neceilary to fteer by - the compafs, as at fea. They tell us at Wattonsford the memory of Tyrrel is ftill preferved, as pafting over there when he unawares ftiot William Rufus. The foil is fand, gravel, ftone, clay by parcels; thefe are pleafant folitudes for a contemplative* traveller, did not the intricacies of the roads give one uneafinefs. Here are whole acres of the moft hQ2LU.vS\A Jox-gloves that one can fee, riling upon a ftrong ftem, adorned with numerous bell-flowers as high as one’s horfe. Mr. Baxter has a right notion of this name, fig- mfying lemurum manica, from the fuppofed fairies. I take thefe names, and foxes bells, and the like, to be reliques of the Druids, who did great, cures by tliem; for this is a plant of powerful qualities, when prudently adminiftered. c'ct^^il:\^^s^ooA. June ey O-JTUM-' . ft V V** • I ' •♦'S'T ** > #, - V ' 4 > ] / 1-^i 4 ' * • ,? y ,-;> t / ITE 11 vn. 191 adminifl’ercd, in a conflitution that will bear it. I obferve we derive the names of very many plants from the old Celtic language, as I believe the Greeks and Latins did likewife. The king’s houfe, as called hill, was at Lyndhurh : the duke of Bolton has a hunting-feat thereabouts. I rede through an old camp in the midft of the foreft : it is overgrown with wood, feems to have been round : at bottom is a fpring : no doubt but it is a Britifn eppidum. You may fee Southampton from thence. They fay the Br. oppidum. king was killed hereabouts. Here is a great plantation of young oaks, for the ufe of the crown : a great deal of hne oak-timber lefts hut the beech- trees are very ftately and numerous. Romfey was unquehionably a Roman town, and its prefeiit name h^ows as much. The church is a noble old pile of architedluj e, arched with {lone in the form of a crofs, with femi-circular chapels in the upper angles. Thefe churches, hereabouts called minflers, were doubtlefs built by the Saxon kings as foon as they became chriftian : the manner of their flrudlure is much like thofe built by queen Helena in Falefline: at the weft end of it is a bit of an old wall, perhaps belonging to the nunnery built here by king Edgar. I heard of a ftlver Roman coin found here. This town is an old corporation, in fituation extraordinary pleafant, having woods, corn-fields, meadows, paftures, around it in view : the river and rivulets, which are many, have a rapid courfe. Two miles before I came to Winchefter, the downs of chalk begin ^ again with baiTows upon them. I faw feveral double ones. The walls of bulgarum W inchefter inclofe a long fquare about 700 paces one v/ay, 500 the other: it ftands on the weftern declivity of a hill, the river running below on the TAB. eaft. Many branches, and cuts of it too, pafs through the midft of city, and render their gardens very pleafant: the walls and gates, as repaired in times long after the Roman, and chiefly of flint, are pretty ihtire j no doubt, built upon the old Roman. In the higher part of the city is the caftle, which overlooks the whole here is a famed round table, where king Arthur’s knights ufed to fit. I faw fome great ruins ftill left of the walls and towers that belonged to it; but the main of it was pulled down when Sir Chriftopher Wren projedled the king’s palace there in king Charles the lid’s reign : it fronts the weft end of the cathedral. The houfes in the town were .bought in order to make a ftreet between both, which would have had a noble effedf. This palace is a large pile of building, and beautiful, yet with all the plainnefs that was neceflary to fave an extravagant expence, or that became a royal retirement: it fills up three fides of a large fquare, fo that the opening of the wings or front looks over the city : three tire of windows, twenty-fix in a row', fill up every fide externally, befides the fronton in the middle of each fide, corapofed of four Corinthian pi- lafters : a handfome baluftrade runs quite round the top: the infide of this open court is more elegant, and einiched with portico’s, &c. the late duke of Tufeany gave fome fine marble pillars tov/ards the adorning it. A great bridge was to have been built acrois the fofs in the principal front ; and a garden, park, &c. were to have been made before the back front : the citizens entertain great hopes, that fince the happy increafe of the royal family, this palace w ill be finilhed; it is of plain brick-work, but the window^-cafes, fafeias, cornice, &c. of good Portland ftone. There is a great old chapel near it. This place was the refidence of the potent kings of the Weft Saxons. The cathedral is a venerable and large pile : the tower in the middle and tranfept are of ancienter work than the choir and the bedy. Inigo Jones has * Opus tejjellatum found in the caftle. has crcLled s delicate fcreen of Hod e-work before the choir. Here was the burial-place of many Saxon and Normian kings, whofe remains the im¬ pious foldiers in the civil wars threw againft the painted glafs : they fhow too the tomb of king Lucius. Queen Mary was here married to Philip of Spain ; the chair ufed in that ceremony is ftill preferved. In the body of the church is a very ancient font, with odd fculptures round it. In the city IS a pretty crofs of Gothic workmanfliip, but ill repaired. Without the fouthern gate is a ftately fabric, the college, eredfed and endowed by William of Wickham, bifiiop here, for education of youth. There is good painted glafs of imagery in the chapel windows : in the middle of the eloy- ifers is a ftrong ifone building, the library, well contrived to prevent fire : the fchool is a more modern ftrucfure, handfome, with a very good ftatue of the founder over tlie door, made by Cibber. This country is intirely chalk, whence I fuppofe the name of Fenta: the city is a genteel and plealant place, and abounds with even the elegancies of life. Beyond the river eaftward is a high hill, called St. Giles’s, from an hofpital once there ; now only fome ruins of it to be feen, and a church-yard, feeming to have been a camp, befide the marks of baftions, and works of fortifications in the modern (file. Here Waltheof, earl of Northumberland and Huntingdon, was beheaded, by order of William I. whofe body was carried to Crowland, and ailerted to have miraculous virtues. In digging the foundation of a houfe near the college, in a ftone coffin was found a fione fet in a gold ring, with this infcription in very old cha- racfers, fuppofed about the fixth century. Duce domino comite fidele meo. A mile to tlie fouth of Winchelier is a magnificent hofpital, called Holy Crofs, founded by bilhop Blois : the church is in the form of a crofs, and has a large fquare tower. Over it, on the other fide the river, hangs a cam.p upon St. Catharine’s hill, with a brachium reaching down to the water fide, for convenience of that element. The way between Winchefter and Southampton we perceived plainly to be a Roman road, efpecially as far as the chaJk reached : then we came to a forefl: where the foil is gravelly all the way. Southampton was ftrongly walled about with very large fiiones, full of grow upon the back of oyfters; this is a fort of ftone extremely hard, and feems to be gathered near the beach of the fea. Thefe walls have many lunettes, and towers, in fome places doubly ditched ; but the fea encompaft'es near half the town : it was built in the time of king Edward III. I obferve they have a method of breaking the force of the waves here, by laying a bank of fea-ore, as they call it; it is compofed of long, ftender, and ftrong filaments, like pilled hemp, very tough and durable; I fuppofe it is thrown up by the ocean : and this performs its work better than walls of ftone, or natural cliff. At the fouth-eaft corner, near the quay, is a fort with fome guns upon it, called the Tower : on one we faw this infcription, Henricus VIII. AngUe^ Francice C? Hibemice rex, fidei defienfor invidiijjimus f.fi. MD. XXXXII. HR. Vm. In the north-weft corner was a ftrong caftle with a mount, wailed about at top, as a keep : upon this a round ftone tower, with a winding afcent: the Anabaptifts are about pulling it down, to build a meeting-houfe. The main of this town confift's of one broad ftreet, running through its length : a«sv-'' s ■ ‘ t, •-'■ 3 ^; ! ■' - t - ‘ irv ■<*' . ‘ ■ '■ 11 ::;.,"'/ Ip:^: : 'i: : • ■: ' - ./:- 4 ,'iw. } \ ■ ,! .JJ »»>'■?■', it . 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' 1 *: ■!;•':!,liL ,sk i,:. 7 t 7 .;.; 1 ;;,;;!:t,:ik i.c, 7:: .iSiijifS’V- ■ ■ 7 'A:|:|i|||:!;i| • bjiiiiii : .;!; 7 ; 7 ’i;i;ii,H|te ;7 1 . it N'bli'isiub ' ^ li'bilkil;#-’ ' 7 ,..:. 7 . ., .■ 7 ?:®:; !!;■•' ■■ 7 !j ..:! r=;:..ii;!:, :':;;”iiri. ifclili: i'- : ■■ i,;:i '4 ■•' ' ! Ja ijliJ i!;i!':, :"i) I'Sii :;i!!it;i;. 7 '’ ■'t;:;''.: il«:HS;!:: if iilil l■■i[il^ ■ "'■ il' ii "IT ;i it ■ I; ’’■ ■r ,! ;i: P 1»:- ■ ii . N I f .* 193 ITER VII. there are many old religious ruins, and great warehoufes, cellars, ftore- houfes, &c. but with their trade gone to decay. It was a great lea-port not long fince, and had the foie privilege, by charter, of importing wine from Fiance, till they foolilhly fold it to the city of London. The old Roman city flood more eaftward, upon the banks of the river Trausan- Itching coming from Winchefter, where now is a hamlet called St. Mary’s, There is a handfome new church built upon the ruins of an old one, which TAB. they fay was burnt in fome French wars : it is near the prefent ferry and LXXIX. oppofite to Bittern. Many antiquities have been found upon the fite of the old city. Likewife at Bittern was an old Roman caftle, furrounded by a ditch, into which the fea-water flowed: many antiquities likewife have hence been produced, of which Mr. Camden gives us an account. Perhaps the buildings on both fides the river were comprehended under one name of Traufantum ; therefore this river muft have been the Antona : it was ruined in the Danifh wars, and Southampton arofe from its afhes. This is the place memorable for the famous experiment of king Canute, who fitting upon the banks of the river, crowned and in regal robes, commanded the tide not to approach his footftool j but the ocean, like an unlimited monarch, was as regardlefs of his menaces, as the Hellefpont, of Xerxes his bridles and fetters. Leaving this lelfon of the perifhing glory of monarchs and cities too, we journeyed to Portfmouth, an entertaining light of the maritime majefly of Great Britain, in this point excelling the ancient Roman grandeur. Over a moory common we palled by Fareham, and by Portchefter, a caftle made out of a Roman city. We have little reafon to doubt that this is the. portus magnus of Ptolemy, as it deferves to be called, where a thoufand fail of thePoRTu# biggefl fhips may ride fecure : the mouth of it is not fo broad as the Thames magnus, at Weflminftcr, and that fecured by numerous forts j on Gofport fide, tab. Charles fort, James fort. Borough fort, which name feems to intimate a LXXX, Roman citadel formerly there j Blockhoufe fort, which has a platform of above twenty great guns level with the water : and on the other fide, by Portfmouth, Southfea caftle, built by Henry VIII. of a like model with thofe I faw near Deal upon the Kentifh fhore. Portfmouth is the moft regular fortification, of the modern manner, which we have in England ; a curious fight to thofe that have not been tab. out of it. The government has bought more ground lately for additional LXXIX. works, and no doubt it is capable of being made impregnable ; for a fhal- low water may be brought quite round it. Here is one of the greateft: arfenals for the royal navy : above thirty men of war of the higheft rates lie here, capable of being fitted out in lefs than a fortnight; among them, the Royal William, that can play off at once 120 battering-rams of brafs, infi¬ nitely more forceable than that famous one Titus ufed againft the walls of Jerufalem. The yards, the docks, the ftore-houfes, where all their fur¬ niture is laid up in the exadfeft order, fo that the men can go in the dark and fetch out any individual, is a fight beyond imagination. The immenfe quantities of cables, mafts and tackle, of great guns, bullets, bombs, car- caffes, mortars, granado’s, &c. thefe of all forts and fizes, and the regular methods they are repofited in and diftinguifhed by, are prodigious, and no where to be equalled but in England \ for when I was informed that this place is outdone, in all the particulars, both at Chatham and Plymouth, there was no more room left for wonder. The Royal William’s maft is a noble piece of timber 124 foot long, and this is only the bottom part of the main maft; it is 36 inches diameter, clear timber: its lantern is like a fummer-houfe : its gieat anchor and all accoutrements are equally aftonifh- D d d mg. 194 1 T E R VII. iiig. The rope-houfe is 870 foot long, one continued room, almod: a quarter of a mile : we chanced to have the pleafure of feeing a great cable made here ; it requires 100 men to work at it, and fo hard the labour, that they can work but four hours in a day. The lead: complement of men continually employed in the yard is a thoufand, and that but barely fuffi- cient ordinarily to keep the naval affairs in good repair. But I have talked enough of matters fo much out of my fphere. I was forry to leave this amazing fcene of naval grandeur, with the fliocking fight of a wretched ffatue of king. William, gilt indeed in an extraordinary manner j but of all the bad works in this fort, I have feen, it is the very laft. From Portfmouth there is a fine profpedt of the ifle of Wight, famous for Vefpafian’s firft attempts in fubduing the fouthern parts of Britain : its beautiful elevations, fome woody, fome downy, its towns, havens and white cliffs, at this di- ffance, feem to perfuade one it is an epitome of Great Britain, as that of the world ; or that Nature made it as an effay, or copy, of her greater and and more finillied work. Before I leave Portfmouth I fhall fet down this catalogue of the Britidi fleet as it flands this prefent year, given me by an officer j by which fome people, fond of magnifying the mimic endeavours of fome other up to rival it. powers, may calculate, if they pleafe. when fuch will come Rates. Guns. N° of each rate. Complement of men to each. iji. 100 7 780 2d. 90 13 680 id. 80 16 520 ' 70 24 440 60 60 50 18 46 365 280 124 Sth. 40 24 190 30 4 ^55 152 bth. 20 27 130 179 3540 The whole complement Fire-fliips —--3 of men 55720. Bombs-3 Sloops --- 13 Yachts —-—-12 Hoys ——-- 11 Smacks ——-2 Hulks ——— 7 Store-fhips -- i Hofpital-fliips —— i ^32 I . .. • ,1 '■, ■ . • • • , .* »■, , ■ • V ill' I' V i ■ '• ■ V : > -■ t ■:. ■■■ : ••■^ ■■ . .ye. .. . * " , ' ''' ,, ' •'., •',. iP i ■ i""'"'. ■ ' '’ 't' - •#i'V ■ ■■ f ■ t-' i: ' ■ . - ! ;;.#- i m< „, . '■ I; .: ■ ■ ■ ■ ' , ^ ?,■' . ' ' m: .' 1 7t'^ ■ r - . J ...-fV '-'J'y ^se-!'.V' . '■ ■■ . A- !: 6 .%^ - i '■. , ‘f-- • ' iry-' fcc-".- . - , ^ )/ ■ .m-"' !»■ MANTA¥T0N IS ifra/c /OVO /Sevi — 195 ITER VII. LXXXII. I obferved, the great quantity of water and ditches about this place is apt to render it aguifli. The reader will excufe me from giving any defcrip- tion of the fortifications here, for the fame reafon that I did not offer to draw any thing ; but pafling by draw-bridges, baftions, gates, fofies, counterfcarps, &c. we repeated our fieps to the Ports-down hills, Vvhich are of chalk, and at a reafonable dilfance from the fliore extend themfelves into Suflex ; leaving to the fouth a lefs elevated, woody, and rich country. Here we turned to admire the delightful view of the ground we had paffed, and that we were going to : the ports, creeks, bays, the ocean, the caftles fixt, and thofe moving on the water, the ille of Wight in its full extent, all lay before us, and under the eye, as in a map : Portchefter, Gofport, which is a very confiderable town, Portfmouth, Southampton, Chichefier, and all the fea-coaft from Portland ifle to the Suffex coafts, were taken in at one ken. I took a little fketch of it in palfing, in plate 82. We found fome of the Roman Vv^ay upon this ridge, which I fuppofe went through Fareham and Havant, betv/een Traufantum and Chichefter, with a vicinal turning out to Portchefier : it goes eaft and weft. We paffed by a large long barrow. We were led to Chichefter by the fame of a moft ancient infcription lately difcovered there, whereof tranfcripts were handed about, that appeared not exa£t enough : this has revived the luftre of Chi¬ chefter ; for, though the termination of its name, and a Roman road called Stane-ftreet coming to it, is evidence fuffi cient of its being a Roman city, yet none has pofitively affirmed it, becaufe we have not hitherto been able to affign it a name. Mr. Camden fatisfied himfelf that it owed its name and foundation to Cifla, the South-Saxon king. It is probable the city was deftroyed foon after the Romans evacuated this kingdom, either in the wars between the Britons and firft Saxons, or by the plundering Danes, who ravaged all the fea-coafts i fo that its name was utterly forgot; but Cilfa becoming mafter of this country, and there chufing to fix his feat, repaired the ancient caftle or walls, whofe wjligia w^ere of too lading materials wholly to have loft the appearance of their workmanfhip : then it was natural enough to prefix his name to this Roman termination, by which the Saxons always called caftles of the Romans : or it might be fimply called cafier^ chejler-t as was frequent in other places, till he reftored it; and then it took his name, importing Cifas chejier : but had it been originally founded by him, it would never have affumed that adjunft. I doubt not but the walls of the prefent city are built upon the old Ro-^^y^g man foundations chiefly. It is of a roundifli form, the river running under LXXXI. part of the walls. Two principal ftreets crofs it at right angles upon the cardinal points, where ftands a curious crofs eredled by biftiop Read. The church takes up one of thefe quadrants : it is remarkable for two fide-ailes on both fides, and the pictures of all the kings and queens of England fince CifTa, which are hung upon the wall of the fouthern tranfept; all the biftiops on the oppofite wall. Eaftward of the cathedral is a place called the Pal¬ lant, which feems derived from the Latin palatium. In the middle of North-ftreet Vv^as dug up this memorable infcription, which i have printed in plate 49. To your explication of it nothing can be added: the reader and myfelf will be obliged to you for the leave you have given me here to infert it. It was happy we took great care in tranferibing the letters ; for, fince it has been in the pofleifion of the duke of Richmond, I hear a workman, who pretended to fet the fragments together, has defaced it. An 196 ITER VII. TAR. XLIX. An Account of a ROMAN INSCRIPTION found at Chichefter. By Roger Gale, Efq. T his infciiption, as curious as any that has yet been difcovered in Britain, was found, the beginning of laft April, at Chichefter, in digging a cellar under the corner houfe of St. Martin’s lane, on the north fide, as it comes into North-fcreet. It lay about four foot under ground, v/ith the face upwards: by which it had the misfortune to receive a great deal of damage from the picks of the labourers, as they endeavoured to raife it j for, befides the defacing of feveral letters, what was here difinterred of the Ifone was broke into four pieces : the other part of it, ftill wanting, is, in all probability, buried under the next houfe, and v^^ill not be brought to light till that happens to be rebuilt. The infciiption is cut upon i grey Suffex marble, the length of which was lix Roman feet, as may be conjedlured by meafuring it from the middle of the word TEMPLVM to that end of it which is intire, and is not altogether three foot Englilh, from the point mentioned : the breadth of it is 2 and I of the fame feet; the letters beautifully and exadfly drawn ; thofe in the two firlb lines three inches long, and the relf 27. Being at Chichefter in September laft with Dr. Stukeley, we took an accurate view of this marble, which is now fixed in the v/all under a window within the houfe where it was found j and, that we might be as fure of the true reading as poftible, wherever the letters were defaced, we imprefled a paper with a wet fponge into them, and by that means found thole in the filth line to have been as we have exprefled them above, and not as in other copies that have been handed about of this infciiption. The only letter wanting in the firft line is an N before EPTVNO, and fo no difficulty in reading that. As to the fecond, though it was more ufual, in infcriptions of this nature, to cxprefs the donation by the word SACRVM only, referring to the temple^ or altar, dedicated ; yet we have lb many inftances, in Gruter’s Corpus Infcriptionum, of TEMPLVM and ARAM alfo cut on the ftones, that there is not the leaft occafion to fay any thing farther upon that point. The third line can be no other way filled up, than as I have done it by the pricked letters: I muft own, however, that I have had fome fcruple about the phrafe of DOMVS DIVINA, the fame thing as DOMVS AVGVSTA, the imperialfamily ; which I cannot fay occurs, with any cer¬ tainty of the time it was ufed in, before the reign of Antoninus Pius, from whom, down to Conftantine the Great, it is very frequently met with in infcriptions. This kept me fome time in fufpence, whether this found at Chichefter could be of fo early a date as the time of Claudius ; but as we find feveral infcriptions in Gruter with thofe words in them, or I. H. D. D. In Honorem Domus Divina, which is much the fame thing, without any mark of the time when they were cut, they may have been before the reign of Antoninus Pius, and then only came into more general ufe ; and as the time that Cogidunus lived in, will not let this be of a later ftanding, I think we may offer it as an authority for the ufe of this piece of flattery to the emperors long before that excellent prince came to the purple. The third line, as I believe, was EX AVCTORITATE. TIB. CLAVD. and the fourth COGIDVBNI. R. LEG. &c. that is. Ex auSloritate TV- berii Claudii Cogiditbni regis, legati Augufti in Britannia ; for the following reafons: Vv^e are informed by Tacitus, in vita Agricola, cap, 14. that after Britain ITER VII. 197 Britain had been reduced to a Roman province by the fuccefsful arms cf i\ulus Plautius, and Oftorius Scapula, under the emperor Claudius, ^ce¬ dam civitates Cogiduno Regi eraiit donates^ is ad ncjlram ujque memoriam Jidiflimus remanfit^ vetere ac jam pridem recepta Populi Romani cenfuetudine ut haberet injiriunenfa ferviiutis & Reges. This Cegidunus Teems to be the fame perfon as Cogiduhnus in our infeription, the letter B in the third Til¬ lable making little or no difference in the word, eTpecially if pronounced Toft, as it ought to be, like a V confonant. It is To well known to have been the cuftom of the Roman Liberti and Clientes^ to take the names of their patrons and benefactors, it would be wafting of time to prove the conftant ufage of that pradice. Now, as this Cogidubnus^ who in all probability was a petty prince of that part of the Dobuni which had fubmitted to Claudius, and one that continued many years faithful to him and the Romans, (vide Tacit, ut fupra) had given him the government of Tome part of the iftand by that emperor, nothing could be more grateful in regard to Claudius, nor more honourable to himfeif, after he was romanifed:, than to take the names of a benefador to whom he was indebted for his kingdom, and fo call himfeif TIBERIVS CLAV- DIVS COGIDVBNVS. I fuppofe him to have been a Regidus of the Dobuni ; becaufe we are told by Dion Caffius (in lib. lx.) that Aulus Plautius having put to flight Cata- ratacus and Togodumnus^ Tons of Cunobelin, part of the Boduni (the fame people as the Dobuni) who were^fubjed to the Catuella?iiy fubmitted to the Romans j and the name Cogidubnus, or Cogiduv?iuSy COC 0 Ouhn, or ©tlUH, (vid. Baxteri Glojjar. in verbis Cogidumnus, C? Dobuni) fignifving exprefly in the Britilh language PRINCEPS DOBVNORVM, Teems to put the matter out of all doubt. How far his territories extended, it is impoflible to define. Bifhop Stillingfleet, Orig. Britan, p. 63. fuppofes them to have lain in Surrey and Suffex. Suflex certainly was part of them, fince the temple mentioned in this infeription was ereded in it by his authority; and it is not unlikely, that befides the Regni^ who were the people of thofe two counties, he might have that part of the Dobuni which had fubmitted to the Romans, and Teems to have been his own principality, together with the jhncalites^ Bibroci and Segontiaci^ whofe countries lay between the Dobuni and the Regni ^ beftowed upon him; the words civitates quadam, in Tacitus, not im¬ porting no more than fome few towns, but feveralpeople ; the word civitas always fignifying a people in that hiftorian, Before I proceed any farther, it will not be amifs to obferve, that Togo- dumnus and Cogidubnus, though their names are fo much alike, were two diftind perfons: the firft was Ton of Cunobelin, king of the Trinobantes, vanquilhed and killed in battle by Aulus Plautius ; the fecond, a prince that fubmitted to Oftorius Scapula, and continued in his fidelity to the Romans, in nojiram ujque memoriam, fays Tacitus, who was born at the latter end of Claudius’s reign ; fo that Togodumnus was probably dead before Cogidubnus had his government conferred upon him. I call it his government; for though, by the letter ‘R* ftanding in the infeription with a point both before and after it, by v/hich it plainly denotes an intire word of itfelf, it may feem that it was intended for COGIDVBNI REGIS, and I believe was To in refped of his quondam dignity, yet it is evident, that he had condefeended to take the title of LEGATVS AVGVSTI IN BRITANNIA from Claudius ; and that too muff have been only over thofe people that he had given him the government of; Aulus Plautius, Oftorius Scapula, Didius Gallus, Avitus Veranius, and Suetonius E e e Paullinus, ITE II VII, Paullinus, having the fupreme command fucceffively about this time in this illand, the fecond and laft of which are called expreily Legati by Tacitus, lib. xii. A?in. cap. 23. Fit. Agric. cap. 15. 1 l\\z Legati Caejarisy or Au- guJUy were thofe qui Ccefaribus fubditas regebant Lrovincias. The fixth line has loft at the beginning the letters COLLE j but fo much remains of the word, as makes it to have been indubitably, when intire, COLLEGI VM; and the following letters are an abbreviation of FA- BRORVM. Thefe colleges of artificers were very ancient at Rome, as ancient as their fecond king Numa Pompilius, if we may believe Plutarch (invit. Numce) who tells us, that the people were divided by him into what we at this day call Companies of Lradesmeny and mentions the TUIovs? or Fabri among them; though Florus (lib. 'i. cap. 6 .) fays, that Popuhis Komanus a Servio Tullio relatus fuit in CejiJuniy digefius in ClaJfeSy Curiis atque Collegiis dijlributus. But as the power of the Romans extended itfelf, it carried the arts of that great people along with it, and improved the nations that it fubdued, by civilizing, and teaching them the ufe of whatever was necdlary or advan¬ tageous among their conquerors j from which moft wife and generous dif- pofition, among other beneficial inftitutions, we find thefe Collegia to have been eftablilhed in every part of the empire, from the frequent mention of them in the infcriptions collefted by Griiter, Spon, and other antiquaries. Several forts of workmen were included under the name of Fabriy par¬ ticularly all thofe that were concerned in any kind of building; whence we meet with the Fabri Ferrariiy Lignariiy Fignariiy Materiariiy NavaleSy and others : the laft named may have been the authors of dedicating this temple to Neptune, having fo near a relation to the fea, from which the city of Chicheftei’ is at fo fmall a diftance, that perhaps that arm of it which ftill comes up within two miles of its walls, might formerly have waftied them. The reft of the fraternity might very well pay the fame devoti- n to Minerva, the Goddefs of all arts and fciences, and patronefs of the Dsedalian profeffion. As no lefs than five letters are wanting at the beginning of the fixth line, there cannot be fewer loft at the beginning of the feventh, where the ftone is more broke away than above; fo that probably there were fix when it was perfefil. What we have left of them is only the top of an S : I will not therefore take upon me to affirm any thing as to the reading of them, which is fo intirely defaced; perhaps it was A. SACR. S. a Jacris jwit y perhaps it was HONOR,. S. Honorati fu?it : as to the former, we find thefe Collegia had their Sacerdotes j therefore ^i a Jacris funty which is found in infcriptions, {vid. Grid. Carp. xxix. 8. exxi. i. dcxxxii. i.) would be no improper term to exprefs them ; or it might have been SACER. S. facerdotes funty fince we find fuch mentioned in the following infcriptions. Spon. Mijcell. Erud. Antiq. p. 58. MAVORTI S A C R V M H O C S I G N V M R E S T I T- COLL. F A B R. A R I C I N O R V M A N T I I S S. VETVSTATE D I L A P S V M E T REFECER. CVR. L. L VC I LI VS L A T I N V S PRO C. R. P. A R 1 C. ET T. SEXTIVS MAGGIVS SACER. COLL. E I V S D. Mavorti ITER VII. 199 Mavorti facrum hoc Signum refiituit Collegium Fabrorum Aricinorum Anti qui [jimum^ vetiijlate dilapjum^ G? refecerunt. Curabant Lucius Lucilius Latinus., Procurator Keipublicce Aricinorum., ©* Litus Sextius Maggius Sacerdos Collegii ejufdemy Ibid. p. 64. L. TERTENI AMANTI SACER. COLL. LOTORVM II VIR. C. SARTIVS 'C. F. ITERINVS ET L. ALLIVS PETELINVS D. D. Lucius Lertenius Amantius Sacerdos Collegii Lotorum., Duumviri Caius Sartius., Caii Filius, Iterinus, & Lucius Aliius Petelinus Dedicaverunt. As to the latter, thofe members of the college that had pafled through the chief Offices of it, as that of Prcefecius, or Magijier quinquen 7 ialis, had the title of HONORATI conferred upon them : you have feveral of thefe FIONORATI mentioned in Gruter, particularly a long catalogue of them in Collegio Fabrorum LigJiariorum, p. cclxviii. i. and in Reinefius’s Syn¬ tagma, p. 605. there is an infcription, EPAGATHO TVRANNO HONORATO COLLEGI FABRVM TIGNARIORVM ROMANENSIVM^^^-. So that the vacuity in our infcription may very well have been filled up with one or other of thefe words ; and the three next letters that follow them, D. S. D. de fuo dedicaverunt, will agree with either of them, and what precedes them. The laft line has been PV DENTE PVDENTINI FILio : but there muft have been a letter or two of the prc^nomen at the beginning of it, unlefs it was fhorter than the red; at that, as well as at the latter end of it: and from what I have faid, the whole may be read as follows: Neptuno C? Minerva Lemplum pro Salute Domus Divma, ex AuSloritate Liberii Claudii Cogidubni Regis, Legati Augufii tn Brittannid, Collegium Fa¬ brorum, & ^i in eo a Sacris [or Honorati~\ funt, De fuo Dedicaverunt, Donante aream Pudente Pude?2tini Filio. Chichefter, by this infcription found at it, mud: have been a town of eminence very foon after the Romans had fettled here, and in procefs of time feems to have been much frequented, by the Roman roads, ftill vifible, that terminate here from Portfmouth, Midhurfl, and Arundel; though, what is very dirange, we have no Roman name now tor it. I once thought it might have put in its claim for Anderida, which our antiquaries have not yet agreed to iix any where, being fituated, very near, both to the Sylva Afiderida, and the fouthern Coaft of the iiland, the two properties of that city; vid. Camb. Brit, and Somner’s Roman Ports and Forts. But Henry of Huntingdon, who lived in the time of Henry 11 . telling us, that the Saxons fo deflroyed Andredecejler, that Nunquam poftea readificata juit, & locus tantum qiiafi nobili jjima urbis tranfeuntibus ojlendttiir de folatus, pag. 312. (Vid. Dr. Tabor’s Difcourfe of Anderida, Phiiol. TranfaCr. N° 356.) it could not be Chichellerj for that was not only rebuilt before his time, but was a place of fuch note, that when the bilhops, foon after the Conqueft, anno Dom. 1076. removed their churches from fmall decayed towns, where feveral 200 ITER VII. fevcral of them were then feated, hi urbes celebriores^ Stlgand, then biiliop of Seli'ey, fettled his epifcopal chair at that place. 1 fhall conclude with obferving, that when this infcription was dug up, there were alfo two walls of flone difcovered clofe by it, three foot thick each, one running north, the other eaii, and joining in an angle, as the North-ftreet and St. Martin’s lane now turn, which, in all probability, were part of the foundations of the temple mentioned on the marble. October 31. 1723. To this judicious elucidation of the infcription I have nothing to add, but that it feems to me probable enough, that Pudens, mentioned therein to have given the ground upon which the temple was built, was that Aulus Pudens who married the famous Britifn lady Claudia Rufina, celebrated for her wit, beauty and eloquence. There is room enough in the ftone to fuppofe the letter A at leaR, as his pmnomen was in that part which is loft. Moncceius de incunab. regiis ecclef. chrijL vet. Britann. thinks Claudia, men¬ tioned by St. Paul,::|; 2 Tim. iv. 21. w'as daughter of the renowned Caratacus, converted to chriftianity by him, and married to this Pudens, a Roman fenator. But this may be judged rather too early, on account of the time of St. Paul’s death, and that wdierein Martial lived, who wrote two elegant epigrams upon her; and we may with more likelihood conclude her to be the daughter of our Cogidiunis-, who lived to Tacitus his time, which was the fame as Martial’s: and there is equal reafon for the name of Claudia to be given her in honour of Claudius the emperor, as for the king her father taking the fame upon himfelf, as appears in this infcription. Martial’s fil'd: epigram upon her is the 13th in his IV. L. thus, Clnudiay Rufe^ mco niipfit peregrina Pudenti Madi e ejlo t redis 0 hy menae tuis &c. We may v/ell imagine this was wrote in the reign of Domitian, by the firft epigram in that book being in honour of that emperor’s birth day; and fixteen years at lead: mud have pad'ed between that and the time of s't. Paul’s death, which happened the lad year of Nero. The other epigram is the 54th of XI. L. Claudia caeruleis cum fit Rufina Britannis Edita, cur Latia pedlora plebis habet ^ale dccus jorma ! Romanam credere matres Pa tides pojfiunt, Atihidn efje Juam. Pjt bene, quod fianclo peperit facunda marito ^ot jperat generos, quotque puella nurus. iS/c placeat fuperis, ut cenjuge gaudeai lino, Et femper natis gaudeat ilia tribus. We msay conclude, that if fhe had been of age fufficient to be converted by St. Paul, die would about this time have been too old to have children, and be accounted beautiful. But times and all circumdances confpire fufficiently to make her the daughter of Cogidunus. Famous was the conted between Neptune and Minerva in naming the city of Athens, which they referred to the umpire of Apollo: he, to avoid the odium of appearing partial on either fide, left it to the decifion of mortal men, as Varro tells us: howfoever, thefe two deities are happily reconciled in a joint partnei diip of the dedication of this temple. Tne antiquaries are dill at t Kuhiilus greeteth thee, and Pudens, and Linus, and Claudia, and all the brethren.—See FuUei’s Church lliflory, and Utlier. 201 I 'T E R VIL at variance about the ancient name of this city. Therefore, Sir, that I may not be wholly an imwojthy fellow-traveller, pajjibus etfi longe inequalibus, 1 lhall venture, if Minerva is not averfe, to oifer my tnoughts towards a recovery of the Roman denomination of Chichefter, which appears plainly to have been an eminent and early Ration : though the journey of Antoninus reaches it not, yet it would be ftrange if Ravennas fnould have palied it by, who is very particular in this part of the ifland. I obferve the river this city Rands upon is called Loscant. There are three towns fynonymous higher up, EaR, WeR, and Middle Lavant; whence I think we may conclude, that the true and original name of the river was Antona:, not an uncommon appellative of Rich in the Celtic dialed : Mr. Baxter, voce Anderida., calls it Ant. Likewife a town called Ha?npnet Rands upon it, which feems feme corruption of Antona. Now there are tw^o rivers of this name falling into the fouthern ocean; that which we fpokeof lately, the Itchin, running by Tdraufamtum ; and this we are upon : therefore it appears natural and neceifary that they fhould fome way or other be diRinguiRied from one another: the former Tdraiifantum., Mr. Bax¬ ter, voce fays Rgnifies the farther yfw/iwzz; and in this fame fenfe, but in a later manner, Ninius calls it ; as our monk Ravennas, Onna^ by a fofter pronunciation. Our river then muR be the hither or nearer Antona^ how'^ever adually diRinguiRied ; v/hich we muR find out. Looking into that author generally called Anonymiis, though I fuppofe his true name is Ra^cennas^ as born there, (it being at that time the method of the eccle- fiaRics to take the firname of their native towns) he thus mentions fome cities hereabouts: Caleba Adrebatimi^ Anderejlo, Miba, Mutiiantonis^ Le- mmiis, Dubids, &c. Now I imagine Mutuantonis is the place here fought for. This author probably tranferibed thefe names from infpection of a map, fometimes caRing his eye along a road, fometimes a river, fea-coaR or the like, and fometimes per faltum : when he has been reciting many names of cities in the inland parts as far as Corinium Dobumrum, or Ciren- ceRer, he returns to the fouth-eaR part of the ifiand, and begins a new period, as above. Diredtly in his way to the fea-coaRs is Caleba^ or Farn- ham, as I lhall Riow in proper place: next is Anderida-, wLich cannot be this place, for the reafon you brought out of Henry of Huntingdon: no doubt it is fomewhei e upon the Sulfex coaR; but its particular fite I lhall not take upon me now to determine. Miba is with good reafon thought to be MidhurR; then very naturally follows Mutuantonis, our ChicheRer: hence he takes his route eaRward towards Lemanis, Dubris, &c. in Kent. In Ihort, the evidence is this: the author is plainly deferibing thefe parts ; and where Riould Mutuantonis Rand, but upon the river Antona ? and it does not appear, that any other river hereabouts is fo called ; or, if it did, An¬ derida may very well thither be referred, which cannot polfibly to this place. 1 take the name of lavant, or mutuant, to be fynonymous words in the Bri- tifh language, to diRinguiRi it, as we faid, from traufani ; for llafar fignifies fonorous, loquax ; and mwtb is citus, velox ; either of which, pre¬ fixed to Antona, deferibe this rapid or noify river; and in effect we find it remarkably fo. Dr. Holland in his notes at the bottom of Mr. Camden exprefiy obferves, that this river, though fometimes quite dry, at others, and that very often in the midR of fummer, is R> full as to run very violently: this, no doubt, is ovring to its rife in tlie neighbouring high grounds to the north ; for from them it muR needs fail v/ith an impetuous torrent. Fur¬ ther, it may poRibly be derived from the Britifn llai minor, fignitying the lejjcr Antona, from its Rioit courfe; the confonant v, or /’wdiicli is its Mantan- TONIS. TAB. LXXXI. 202 TAB . LXXXII. TAB. XLllI, Mida. Callfva Atreba¬ tum. TA^. Xl.VI. 2d Vul. ITER VII. equivalent, being interpofed euphonia gratia: or if Mr. Baxter’s corre6lion of Mantajitonis be thought jutf, then it iignifies the mouth of the river Antma ; and Chichcfter nov/ Hands very near its inlet into the fea, and formerly nearer. AVhat way foever we take it, it feems reafonable to conclude this is the place. Though it was not properly a fea-port town, yet it is plainly near enough for the efiablifliment of the collegium fahrorum here ; and the vaH plenty of wood from the adjoining foreft favoured their work, whether of timber or the forge. Since this infcription, there was found a Mofaic pavement in Mrs. Downes’s garden ; and when that was pulled in pieces as ufual, a brafs coin was difcovered under it of Nero and Drufus C^f. on one fide, repre- fented on horfeback; on the other, C. Ccejar Divi aug. pron. aug. p. m. /r. 1 III. yy). which no doubt was there depofited to know the ara oi that work. A little way out of the city northward, we pafled by a Roman camp, called Brill, I fuppofe Bury hill, in Ogilby’s maps called Beauty's bank : t.he Roman road called Stone-ftreet caufeway, goes directly north-eaft from hence through this country, and by Barking church-yard in Surrey; then falls into the Hermen-ftreet at Woodcote. St. Roc’s hill is a fine elevation, v/ith a fpacious circular camp on the top, or a round form, a caflrum ajlivutuy belonging to Mantantonis. Here is a foundation cf a chapel, or a beacon, perhaps both : the reader may gather an idea of the view here from plate 43. At Midhurft is a fine old feat called Cowdrey, belonging to the Browns vifcount Montacute: it Hands in a valley incompaffed with lawns, hilis and woods, thrown into a park, the river running underneath. It is a large houfe of Hone, confiding of one court: the hall is cieled of Irifh oak after the ancient manner; the walls painted with architecture by Roberti, the Hatues by Goupe, the Hair- cafe by Pelegrini : the room at the end of the hall is of Holbein’s painting, where that famous old artiH has deferibed the exploits of Henry VilL before Bulloign, Calais, his landing at Portfmouth, his magnificent entry into London, &c. In the other rooms are many excellent pictures of the anceHors of the family, and other hiHory-painting of Holbein’s, relating to their aCtions in w'ar. The whole circuit of rooms above Hairs are Hately and w'^ell furniihed, adorned with many pictures ; there is a long gallery with the twelve apoHles as big as the life; another very neat one, wain- fcotted with Norw-ay oak, where are many ancient whole-length pictures of the family in their proper habits, which is a very elegant notion: there are four hiHory pieces ; two copies of Raphael’s marriage of Cupid and Pfyche ; feveral old religious and military paintings from Battle-abbey. The road to MidhurH to us appeared Roman, and therefore Hrengthens the fuppo- iition of its being Mida, St. Roc’s hill is upon the chalky down running eaH and weH : north of it to Farnham it is fandy, full of erica ; but the valleys are rich, warm and w^oodv. The heaths betw'een Farnham and Godalmin are full of barrows. Ferndon hill in the way to Godalmin is very Heep northwards, and of an hour’s defeent; which you rife to infenfibly: it runs eaH and v/eH. At Farnham is the bilhop of WincheHer’s palace, a magnificent ancient HruCiure ot the caHle-form, deeply moted, and Hrongly w^alkd about, with towers at pi’oper diHance: it Hands upon the edge of a hill, v/here is a fine park. One large and broad Hreet of the town, below hill, fronts the caHle ; the main of the reH of the town confiHs of a long Hrait Hreet eroding it at right angles, which is the Pvoman road coming from VVin- cheiler: the river runs parallel to it on the fouth ; this is a fine rich foil with 'f'h ^ TarnliaxrL SejJ: i6 J/'^S • I . m- .v-t->••• < ;•'' • U.:-V' ; ■/!■/ '. '■ ,*■ , M ■ '4 • m ITER VII. with much fand in it, and has an extraordinary propriety for the growth of hops. This place I take to be the Caleva Atrebatum which becaufe it is a notion of my own advancing, it requires that I fhould a little enlarge upon it, and propofe it to your difcerning judgement. This has been hitherto matter of difpute among antiquaries, and I think cannot otherwife be fettled than in fixing it at this place : it will make this Vllth journey of Antoninus and fome more very clear, that otherwife labour under infu- perable difficulties : therefore this I propofe to be the true fcheme of that journey. ITER VII. a Regno Londinium M. P. XCVI. fic Regnum Ringwocd Praufantum Southampton XX Venta Belgarum Winchefter X Caleva Atrebatum Farnham XXII Pontes Stanes XXII Londinium London XXII toto, XCVI. We have no difference in the copies, but in the fum total at top, which is owing only to a tranfpofition of the letters C and X. therefore all we have to do is to find out the towns; the particular numbers being indifputably right, and rightly caff up in the Puritan edition j and ail the places that admit any queftion, are only Calleva and Pontes^ which in this manner mutually prove one another, as being abfolutely conformable to geogra¬ phy, and the neareft way one fhould chufe to go at this day, and having from Southampton a Roman road accompanying all the way. This fum- mer I rode through Winchefter and Farnham, through Alresfordand Alton, and obferved in many places hgns fufficient of that nature j though it is horridly out of repair, and even in the midft of fummer very bad, notwith- ftanding fuch plenty of materials every where to mend it: this has obliged coaches and horfemen frequently to make excurfions for their eafe and fafety. Mr. Aubury likewife pronounces it a Roman road long fince in his manu- fcript colledlions. Between Farnham and Alton the bank is vifible, in feveral places between Alresford and Alton : the right reverend author of the additions to Camden takes notice of it. The diftance is twenty two miles, as in the Itinerary ; but to Wallingford, where Mr. Camden places it, it is thirty j to Henley fomewhat more : befide, from the one you muff crofs the Thames three times, from the other twice in the way to London ; a thing the Romans would certainly avoid, if poffible: but from Farn¬ ham by way of Stanes is the direfl road, and diftances correfpondent as before. Calleva is again mentioned in the Xlllth and XlVth journeys, both which I have already correftcd^ and they mutually confirm one another, and take away all difficulties when they are confidered together. Laftly, Calleva is mentioned in the XVth journey of Antoitinus: I fhall exhibit it in this form, which I conceive to be its original one. We have cleared all the other parts of it before, where it differs from this in the printed copies. ITER t Mr, Terry of Lincoln tells me, at Tangham near Farnham, innumerable Roman coins, urns, and antiquities, are dug up every where in hedge-rows : vaft quantit’es of them, which he got, he gave to Oxford. This perhaps was the fite of Calleva. Pvlany pillars, pilafters, capitals, bafes, marble tables, &c dug up there continually; many in pofTefiion of George V/oodrolF, eiq. late owner of the eftate: he had many pecks of coins found there. 30.3 304 ITER VII. ITER XV. a Caleva Jlfrehatiim, Ifcam Dum}io?iiorum M. P. CXXXXI. Jk Caleva Atrebatum Farnham Vindoma Silcheher XV Venta Belgarum Vhnehefter XXI Bn gee by Broughton XI Sorbio dunum Old Sarum VIII Vindogladia Boroilon XII ibernium Bere regis XIIII Dumovaria Dorcheiter IX Mori dunum Seaton XXXVI Ifca Dumnonlorum Excefter XV CXXXXl Perhaps the lafl: X in the fum total was corrupted into a V after the ftation was dropped out. The firll part of it here eftablilhes the iite of Calleva in refpecl to Ve?ita Belgarum-, as in the Xlllth and XIVtb journeys in refpedt to Spina fo that it is proved from different points of a triangle, and as it were by mathematical demonifration. I imagine the occafion of over-fight in this matter is owing to Mr. Cam¬ den’s fettling the Atrebates in Berkfnire ; and his authority, no doubt, with every one is of the greatelf weight defervedly: yet I fuppofe his only reafon for it is becaufe he thought Wallingford tht Calleva Atrebatum, as having fome refemblance to his fuppofed Gallena. In his Roman map he has fet thefe Atrebates partly north of the Thaines in Oxfordfhire, where himfelf puts the Aucalites, and partly fouth, where rightly he fixes the Bibroci in Berkfhire: this is in my judgement too far northward. I doubt not but the Bibroci inhabited Berkfhire intirely to the Thames, as I proved in a former letter; to which we may add, that if, as he fays, this country was called by the Saxons BeiTocfcyre, there can be no difficulty in afierting the ivord derived from Bibroci. The Airebates came undoubtedly from Gallia Belgica, where were a people of the fame name upon the fea-coafts ; and if we place them h ere m Surrey about this their capital, they may with fome propriety whth Mr. Camden be faid here in Britain to live over-againft their own country, where Ptolemy places them in the maritime parts upon the Sein; but not if he fends them up to the top of the Thames : nor is it probable they Ihould have penetrated fo far up the country, even beyond their brethren tiie Belga, by all allowed the moil powerful colony of tranfmarine people at that time. The Segontiaci as well as Bibroci, on this fide the Thames, would confeffedly ojipofe fuch paffage ; therefore, if we give Suffex to the Regni, we muu; referve Surrey for thefe Atrebates, and Fariiham their capital j and this is agreeable to Ptolemy, who places them next the Cantii. A little without Farnham eaffward, the road divides into two branches with an acute angle : one goes to Guildford and Darking, where it meets the Stane-ftreet corning from Chicheiler ; the other to Stanes, vrliich 1 profe- cured to Farnborow, probably a ffation or inn, or camp to fecure the road over this wild country; for it is deep fand from Farnham to Egham ; but where in particular the Roman road went is not eafy to dehne, becaufe of the extraordinary fandinefs of the whole country •.•f' but at Frimley, near here, t A large parcel of It, a quarter of a mile long, is ftill perfeA to the eaft of the brook, where the powder mills are on Mounllow heath, where the common road goes fouthward to pafs it. W- ' ' H .#* (• av . JT;^. — ’ti--"”-' ;^y.'- •s^ E '", u - ’y'Tr'viu.' ^.■^ • "'^ ’■. ^. ' ^.... :'.-..4r''"’ - • :' - .» ..'f V. ;r, - ■ '• - ■'• , V-tfi' *'• ^ Y • 'i ^i»;»^ . 'v' •''* - . V U f. ■ - :■' iv r.t ■' • ' “ ' .:..r - kiW'-' - f- !^P“; •V .?,.- . R .vV ' iv ■ •.;Y^ - . P »v. A V; ■ *•, . ■ ■»i.. •» ( ' t j:-/ f’ i ■.•4 ■■U’i 'V', I T E 11 VII. 205 here, about fixteen year ago, an urn with Roman coins and iiitaglla’s was found: Mr. Titchburn had them. This is dire6tly in the way to Farn- barow. I fuppofe there was a Roman way from Silcheder through Stretley, Hartley row, Harford bridge, which fignifies trajectus militaris, but from the moorynefs of the foil is quite worn away. I take this road to be a con¬ tinuation of that coming from the Bath by Marlborough j-f* but at Stanes I faw our road very evidently go through the fields weft of the bridge, and diredlly over-againft it ; fpr it muft be underftood that the Romans drew a TAB. LVl. road, as I faid before, under the Icening-ftreet, and parallel to it, which went from Regnum to London. This is what we have been upon, and compofes this YWthlter: From thence it paffed through Colchefter to thefea-coafts of Suffolk. Now between Stanes and London it is notorious, being the common road at prefent, till you come to Turnham green :§ there the prefent road through Hammerfmith and Kenfington leaves it j for it pafles more northward upon the common, where to a difcerning eye the ti'ace of it is manifeft; then it goes over a little brook called from it Stanford-bridge, and comes into the A6fon road at a common, and a bridge, a little weft of Camden houfe, fo along Hyde-park wall, and croffes the Watling-ftreet at Tyburn, then along Oxford-road. But of this part of it, going to Old-ftreet, north of London, I fpoke before. Between Oxford-ftreet and Stands, this Roman road was originally drawn through Brentford, which undoubtedly was a manfion between them ; and this is a very ftrait line: I rode the broken part of it between A6fon road and Turnham green: it is ftill a narrow ftrait way, keeping its original dircftion, but full of dangerous doughs, being a clayey foil and never repaired : it butts full upon Stanes bridge, and then beyond it paffes forward in a ftrait line through gardens and yards into the corn-fields, where its ridge is ftill left, the higheft part of all the field, though they plough clofe to it on both fides i and it is now a road for three quarters of a mile; then it enters a nar¬ row lane, and at laft degenerates into a foot-path toward Thorp-lea, in the way to Farnham; the common road leaving it all this while in the way to Egham. So that undoubtedly Stanes was the Pontes of Antoninus ;|| the Pontes. diftances of 22 miles on, both fides anfwering the faft, and the Itinerary;, with which I fliall at prefent conclude mine in the words of the poet. Hie labor extre?nus, longarum hcec meta viarum, Virg. iLn. III. t The via Trinovantica. § November, 1731, a labourer dug up an urn full of lilver Roman coin, at Turnham green, as repeated in the public prints. I! Stanes was fenced round with a ditch. G g g ;.u }l ■ ’Y • 1 . .V ' iP ' .-Ili:/:- S.7.;-7' ■.'1 .1;'yx '” ^ ,vyj: poy ■ nu.0ii>fd JJJCnu: tslyV! ; , 'i,! . ; / . "■. fvbbT .'fNi ;-;i = Tava *' • * 7 ' 'l .' . ■ ‘ S V ; - y ■* ■• ■■ : £ 2}.'U *.• .■ . ■• " ‘ 'b/ 'V. \ '‘.. y' -jh', ■ j p’/0't yuiKl'C . ?' ' V- • ■ • ' . t t ■ \ ' /j ^ K ■ V^; A A y, -Ji (j Xo 2bir{riv.v-)jT! r^di' :■ .pPAc,ipf\-fr^. '‘v. , - 0 £'-‘ ■ i' v-y-x.jEiii 'ib cs!„.i ■ ,;,' 'i:- j'v'V i;i?K- ■ . iiQCu' ’luo wB • • ^ . .• • ' ' h' -'b ■ }] ■- y < r.obd «R ,6jgbi .1 , r j ^iT ■ 'yiJOfjjJOiXCv % fHOT? j i i'jU; ;^.,, idi baiwj ii ■-Oimli rno i'l ddl; ...: i.: 'k.-.'.i - 1 . .. ! i.v . 4 >•• ; 1*. yv i : tlx:y C-.*. f pi> ;;. ; rr.;:AT^i ri;.(..il; i. i) 7 1 '-' t i.i yR; >; brm aopjuao j ■'■i-..A r Ji, O-'VjWt ;/ kU- ■■. Cijii vA'i.Sfiii ra;>Xi 'ff^uojih hiJvi ''■’ " J '7 '^r ., . .'i ii OJ' ‘ii'ii-i r:' 'i ,rtoajiaO') //ivqir 'bii; i ; Ji iCLOit Loli'^ S' ' A-i.Ot>'i''i ! ; i a 'io^o ■Ji carjrJ { ibitiin/i'i :: Ji i ■' '2^ . ^ . < . j;i !^ r'('■;;>■ : i :.'U .i-m/p •. nabmc^ -liib oj ' •.■:U :^:;j.n-LAiAkO-^iipkriodi,^^^^^^ ■ ■ . ,^ '^.' • ■ '" ;-; r^^da^ocili i.tn6b4M)jao r:,} L;;oi i./..-; ^ l:iani\.4n^ ^-^O'fffcv; 5■?(!,• / , 1 :; iHMv/ avi<:?iiro.:jiU 7?'3!,'^6‘J({t i:-; b,7H;i iTi, a.q /bo'f l : 'JiVi umPx po-f :pauu ; D 'L-j;'avv;;;? V-'/ jiriii’ .vc A’kf r. lilii'ci 'A : '-'t i > j r 7 ; l ■. . t. 'P * V ’ ^r< r» ? ::i 4 ,. 'i. ih ’)j\- i': ■ vf lab h' v.'0 odi oinl .> p/onr.i ybfjy ba/; zpd' b -noxTO; tiud i>nil qv-rn; ■v ao.:i:; -KLi \ .iU [b i i j ; 1 fjydpddyUiiJ /ihi q r; b>: ho,piiupoy^: a-l-i i.il-Q'i. £.7/': =51 si ti jbnk , 7 ib;y ;- 'jav': -n oiai ■ ili hi>11 770'I Ih-A ■ i ii iJi ji iJJa/. Oili> i merlmsl'f/i' I '1 , i. • V i 4 V/j ■ i '. ■ i fyiiyi .■-■'..■J>1 L'.:j 'i /ib-uUiius.',- i iSlJt'Oa .''i'I>)il'§jX, e^jlicp £:s Xo /) -.iblabf I d:)tdv/ .':n. ■ ’'’"'V-S'iVvL ^'■;'-i;i.,Mr)uiiiJ:7oK ^ '.. .■•,;.;7 ,t. 0 ( 1 j rit.lj-j'.’wop'i. ?s :.;;;' .; i’- Klol: !1‘/ ' 7 THE LATE S I N ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, Cent. I. 1. Rural Curlofity. 2 . 3. Seats. 4.Ichnography of caftles. 6. Views of caftles. 7. Bridges. 8. Jchnography of Pa¬ laces, 9. Ruins of Palaces. 10. Seals. 11. Crofles. 12. 13. Profpedls, 14. Hermitages. 15. Portraits. 16. Monumental braffes. 17. Marbles. 18. ig. View of churches, 20. Religious ruins, Gatehoufes. Places of interment of archbiftiops. Kings. 21. 22 . 23- 24. 25. 26. 27 - 28. Jchnography of ab.bies. 29. Shrines. 30. Altars. 31- 32. 33- 34 - 30- 3^ 38- 39- 40. 41. 42. 43- 44. 45 - 46. 47 - 48. 49. ^0. 5 »- 52. 53- 54 - 55. 56. Pi£tifti. Britifh. Greek. Roman camps. Walls. Pharos. Rotnano-Saxonic. Roman infcriptions. Amphitheatre. And where explained. M Arlborough mount, and the cafcade at Wilton Pag. 64. Lincolnftiiie decoys. 18 Lord Hertford’s houfe at Marlborough. 64 Ludlow caftle, ground-plot and profpedl. 74 Profpedl of the fame. 74 Rochefter cafile. 120 Crowland bridge. 34 Whitehall ruins ground-plat Pref. King John’r palace at Clarendon, 138 Of the church of Norwich. Pref 5 /.Guthlack’r, Ivy crofs, Ednam, Hadenham, and others. 12,19,34,107 Waltham crcfs. Blackfton cave, lAc. near Bewdley. Dale abbey, &c. and Blackfton cave ground-plot Sir Han y Spelraan Bijhop Smith, founder of Brazen-nofe college. Aylwin alderman of England. King John’r effigies at Worcefter. Bofton, Linculnfhire. Colfterworth church, Golbech church. Priory of Leominfief. Reding abbey, and Worcefter college. St. Auguftin, St. Auguftin’j abbey. 37 74 53^74 Pref. 92, 81 68 31 85 20 72 63 123 Ruins of that abbey ,kiyigY,i\\t\htxt’s chapel.St.Gttgorf s chapel,110,12^ Gates. Buildings. Itinerary. Reding abbey, king Harry I. Feverfham abbey, king Stephen. Kirfted abbey, Tupholm abbey. St. Hugh the Burgundian’r fhrine, Lincoln. The high altar of St. Alban’5 abbey. The backfde of the fame. White fryers in Gloucefter. Jchnography c/"Glaflenbuiy abbey. The kitchen there. St. Jofeph of Arimathea’r chapel. Ruins ^Glaflenbury abbey. Profpeft of the fame. 1^1 The caves of Hauthornden, Scotland. The Troglodytes^ Nottingham. A view at Athens. Chlorus his camp, near Clarendon park. Oldbury camp in Wiltfhire. Camalet caf le and view from St. Roc’r hill. Martinfal hill, Montacute hill, See. Silchefter walls, and a Roman camp. Pharos in Dover cafile. Ground-plot and feSlion of the fame. iS’r.Martin’rr/.’arc^, Canterbury, and the Church Dover-caftle. Chichefter, lAc. 148, Dorchefter amphitheatre ground-plot. From the entrance a view. Another view. The (eitions and oblique view of the amphitheatre. 165, Roman gate at Lincoln and Canterbury. 89, Temple of Janus at Leicefter. C^Antoninus. 6, 76, in, 63 121 88 92 117 117 67 151 152 152 152 ) 153 53 53 Pref. 1 2 ol I 4 I 150, 202 J39» ^56 79 I 2 g 129 129 196 ibi itj 169 167 122 J CQ 205 INDE 57 - 58. 59 - 60. 61. 62. 63. 64. 65. 66 . 67. 68 . 69. 70. 71- 72. 73 - 74 - 75 - 76. 77 - 78. 79 - 80. 81. 82. 83. 85. 86 . 87. 88 . 89. 90. 91. 92. 93 - 94. 95 - 96. 97 - 98. 99. 100. 101. Ichnograpliy of Roman Cities. and Profpeft of Roman Cities. Celefllal charafler. Londinium Augufta, London, Pag. 119 Garionenum by Yarmouth. 132 Camboritum, Chefterford Mag. 78 Sp'mae, Newberry. 63 Vindoma, Silchejier. Cunetio caftrum, Marlborough. ProfpeSi of Marlborough. ' Leucomagus, Great Bedwin. Sorbiodunum, Old Sarum. Profpedi of Old Sarum. View of Old and New Sarum from Harnham-hill. Verlucio. Heddington, Pundtuobice, the Devizes. Aquas Solis, Bath. ProfpeSi of the Bath. Ifchalis, llchejier. Ifca Dumnoniorum, Exeter. ProfpeSi of Exeter. Moridunum, Seaton. Londinis, Lyme. Durnovaria, Dorchejler, ProfpeSi of Dorchefter. Traufantum, Southampton., and profpeSf from Portfraoutlr. Portus Magnus, Portchejler, and view in the port. Mantantonis, Chichefer. ProfpeSi of Portfmouth and of Chichelier. Venta Belgarum. Pontes, Staves. Ariconium, Kenchejltr. Derventio, Little Chejlcr by Derby. Agelocum, Littlebury. Lindum colonia, Lincoln. Banovallum, Horncaftle. Ad Pontem, by Bridgford. Margidunum, by Willoughby. Ratae Coritanorum, Leicejler. Benonis, High-crofs. Tripontium, Dove-bridge. Verolanium, Verolam. Durovernum, Canterbury. Richborough-caftle. Lapis tituli, Folkftone. Lemanus Portus, Limne. Tloe great conjunSlion of the five Planets, Total eclipfe of the Sun in 1721. 163; 177 63 63 64 182 183 137 142 144 146 146 154 156 159 *59 i6(> 161, 16s i6r 193 *93 19.5, 20 r 19.5, 202 191 205 69 54 ' 30 105 106 108 no 112 116 122 125, 163 * 3 * Preface. *79 INDEX B Englifh. IRTH-Places, Sir IJaac Newton^ Dr. miUs Dr. Harvey Page 34 » 49 » 53 » 55 . 85 64 »31 61 37» 87 61, 74 138 igr 95 Champions of England Circular churches Hermitages K. John's palace K. Charles II. at Winchejier Two mitred priories, Spalding^ and Thsrnholme Eleanor's crofles 36, 37, 92, 114, 115, 117 Royal oak The Briti/h navy Sepulture of K. Lucius -- H. I. - H. IV. . Etheldred ——- Edgar ————— Arthur -- Stephen - Rich. III. - Edw. II. — ■ John — - Rob. Brus Stilton cheefe Wales The Walhes Vicar of Bedwin Etymology. Anham river Bow Barrows, burrows, bowers Biard's leap Crekelade Churn Cunnet Catwater &c, Elho Ely Fr amp ton Holland Humber Hedg or hay in dancing Helpringham Hargate Hum Kefteven L'ys Lichfield Lade., Lode Lindfey jMartinelia Prejhute ^uern Ruffian, romeing Sarn 48, 97 » 15 60 194 192 63 124 190 152 152 121 109 67 68 81 8r 59 »9 65 95 31 »»5 87 65 65 63 8 5 5 24 5 96 99 12 16 ^ 24, 3c 85 66 66 19, 65 85 »39 64 67 15» 16 66, 76, no, i2r Syfer Page 1C2 Fhongcafile lOZ Thong, wang 102 Warths 162 Weljh words in Lincolnjhire 59 Witham 85 Pageants »74 Genealogies, Of Wakes of Brun 10 Moulton 23 Croun 25 Seats. Ambjbury, lord Charlton »37 Althorp, earl of Sunderland 38 Boughton, duke of Montague 36 Burghley, earl of Exeter 35 Belvoir, duke of Rutland 52 Chatfworth, duke of Devon 55 Cotvdrey, lord Montacute 2o2 Eft on, earl of Pomfiret 38 Grimfihorp, duke of Ancafter 12 Hampton-court, earl of Coningfijy 72 Marlborough, earl of Hertfiord 64 Ribsford, lord Herbert of Cberbury /4 Wilton, earl of Pembroke 65, 185 Woodjiock, duke of Marlborough 46 Warwick, lord Brooke 49 Mechanics. Gotes and fluices, by whom invented Decoys defcribed Salt making The form of oars Silk mill Stocking-h;om Lace-loom 57 130 54 52 58 Antediluvian. Trees 16, 59, 96 Wood 37 Bones 93 Canoos 16, 121 Nuts 147 Filh 81, 156 Plants 149 Horns 16 Shells 18,43, 48» 93 » 96’ »07» »^8, 113, 116, i 35 »i 37 » »48, » 49 » » 5 » Art. Mr. Ajhe's Garden 55 Enfion water-works 48 Gothic architedlure commended 67 Whence their ill tafle , 124 Mineralogy. Lead mines 54 Salt-fprings 57 » ^9 Salt works 58 Tobacco-pipe clay 37 Coal mines 54, 63, 74, 149 Fullers earth 115 Geography \ N D E X. Geography. Page. Memoirs towards a Britijh map of foils 27, 2g, 47, 62, 64, 100, 115, 116, 120, 146, 157, 177, 179, 190, 192, 193, 195, 202, 204 Natural. Compofure of ftones 18, 49, 55, 162, 192 The earth an oblade fphffiioid Proofs of the rotation of the globe 49’ 67, 73, 77, 93, 96, loi, 120, 121, 130, 137, 138, 148, 151, 157, 159, 202 The drumming well at Oundle Pool’s hole Another Remarkably large Hone Flints in chalk Echo Beach of pebbles X24, 126, Of the noife of the ocean Springs flowing with the tide Petrifying fprings 37. Springs fwallowed up Floating ifland The phdofophy of making drains ■-of harbours •—— -of oars An account of the folar eclipfe 116, 159, 4’ 29, 108, 115, 141, 146, 36 57 149 137 120, 141 46^172 127, 159 126 94 108, 112 57 17 130 130 179 MedicinaL Chalvbcat fpring 9 OflTification in a fheep 20 Sheep without horns 17 Prodigious memory 69 Buxton bath 56 Bath waters 146 Cafe of a greyhound Iritch 155 Bronchocele endemic 54 'i’he fymbol of medicine 148 Scribonius, phyllcian to Claudius 148 One aged 126 37 Of the gout 157 Richnels of foil in old cities 41, 106 Weft fide of the ifland ? c. e, moft healthy I 59 ’ 60 74, 146, Botany 16, 32, 44, 53, 57, 59, 73, 95, no, 113, 117, 126, 128, 131, 137, 149, 151, 154, 159, 160, 189, 190, 203 Extravagant bulk of plants 72 Celtic names of plants j 90 Rotnan Roads. 57, 65, 69, 73, 76, 87, 96, 109, 120, 127, E37’ 15I’ 156, 15^^’ 162, 179, 184, 192, 195, 200, 202, 203 Artifice of them Manner of paving Hermeti-Jirect --name -the new Old Hermen-Jlreet by whom made Brigantian Hermen-fireet Akeman-ftreet name 108, 141, 187 106, MO, 155 76, 81, 88, 202 6 ^ 5 > 93 7 7 ’ 84 92 4 T 43 ’ 47 43 Ricning-way name Icening Jlreet name extent Fofs road name extent JVatling-ftreet Page 54, 61, 68, 69, 148 54 > 148 63 > 77 ’ 79 » 1 15» 160, 179 182, 187 161 161 66, 87, 103, 145, 154, 155 103 156 III, 119, 121, 59 » 127 name diredled to R^e Via Trinovantica Stone ftreets Ravens-bank Vta Badonica Brig-end caufeway In Holland., Lincolnjhire III HI JI8, 177, 205 122, 132, 204 15 62, 63, 140 15 14 Ambsbury Blandford Bojlon Buxton Bctvdley Crowland Chip, norton Coventry Connington Coljierivorth Chard Derby Fereby Feverjham Fleet Friefion Fotheringhay GlaJJbnbury Geclney Holbech Hyth Hereford Ifip Kirkton Lichfield Leominjier Ludlow Moulton Malvern Newark Nottingham Oundle Oxford Petherton Portfmouth Rotherjton Reading Somerton Steeple-ajhton Southampton Stukeley Stanford Famworth JVight ifland TVr exham Engli/h Towfts. 137 189 31 56 74 33 . 48 01 85 156 54 99 121 12 25 35 151 12 12 131 71 44 32 61, 66 72 73 22 69 104 52 36 44 156 ^93 57 62 154 H 5 192 80, 114 35 6 r 195 T, 59 Roman E X I N D Roman Towns. Page Page Ancajler 86 Moridunum *59 Brigcajierton 84 Moriconium 190 Brentford 205 Mida 202 Crekelade 65 Mantantonis 201, 202 Cafter 101 Magiovinium *iS Grantham 52 Margidunum 106 Hartford 77 Mancunium 58 Laurance Waltham 62 Noviomagus 119 Northfieet 120 Prajidium 49 Newington J 22 P ennocrucium 61 Royjion 79 Portus magnus *93 Sleaford 9 PunStuobice 144 Stanfield 9 Pontes 205 Stumfield 47 Rutupia 124 Spittal on the ftreet 94 Regnum 190 'Towcejier 40 Rata 108 Wintringham 95 Salinis 6g Roman cities. Salina 78 Ahontrus 96 Sorbiodunum 182 Alauna, Aldcefter 40 Suellaniacis 118 Ad fpinam 63 Tamefe 43 Ariconium 69 Tripontium 112 Agelocum 93 Traufantum *93 Aquis 96 Vindoma *77 Ad ponterh 105 Ver lucio 142 Alauna, Wimborn IQO Vogniacis 120 Arminis 191 Virolanium 116 Aqua falis 146 Vernometum 108 Andaoreon 179 Venta Belgarum * 9 * Briga 184 Vindogladia 188 Bolnelauniitm igo VA nona 28 Benavona 114 Ypoceffa 69 Benonis 110 Roman Forts. Branonium 68 Burgh 16, 29 Bonium 59 Bojion 16 Branavis * 48 Spalding 14 Banovallum 30 Wifbech 14, 16 Condate 57 Brancajler 16 Cunetio 63 Richborough *25 Corinium 66 Farnborough 204 Camhoritum 78 Many more 8 Caufennis 85 Roman Camps. Crocolana 103 Arbury hill 114 Caleva Atrebatum 202 Audleyn 79 Colomea 150 Bury hill 43 Derventio 54 Bu y hill *79 Deva 59 Burrough hill **3 Durocimnte 80 Barbury 140 Durobrivis 82 Badbury 140 Durocobrivts 116 Badbury 14a Durobrovis 120 Badbury i8g Durolenum 121 Cafiledikes * H Durov ernum 122 Chefelbury *35 Dubris 127 Chefelbury *39 Durnovaria 161 Chloridunum *37 Eltabona 37 Dinder-hill 70 Etocetum 61 Gildjborough 38 Garionenum 152 Hexton 77 Glevum 67 Honington 87 Ifca Dumnoniorum 156 Hamden hill 156 Ifchalis J54 Honey ditches *59 Ibernium 389 By Kingsclere *79 Leucomagus 64 Maiden caftle 162 Lindum 88 Martinjhall *39 LaSlorodum 114 Oldbury 341 Londinium 119 Pounibury 362 Lapis Tituli 131 Ring hill 202 Lemanis 132 St. Roc’s hill 70 Londinis 160 Sutton walls r 79 Vefpajian’s D E X I' N Vefpafan's camp Page 138 IPodbury 189 Yarborsugh lOl Tarnbury 137 Roman remains Old Sea-dike ^3 7 'he Cardike 7 Gate at Lincoht 89 At Canterbury 13 ’ 122 Mintwall, at Lincoln 89 At Exeter 157 ’ 158 fewrywall, Leicejler 109 At Aricomum 70 At Rochejhr 120 Temples 66, 79 ’ 146 Manner of Roman walls 0^ CO 104, II 7 ’ 120, 122, 125, 129, 132, 161, i 65 ’ 177 Lolharn bridges 7 Pharos at Dover 129 Their mortar 89 ’ TOI Proportion of bricks 70’ II7 Imbanking of Holland 1 2 Piles of oak 105, 109 Amphitheatres 125, 163, 164, 178 'Julian’s, bower 31 ’ 95 The meaning 97 Chichejlcr infcription 4» 87, 196 Lapis miiUaris I. 94 ’ 179 Lares 42 , 66, 118, 145 Thyrfus 31 Antiquities in Holland 12 ’ ^3 At Rauceby 12 Wells 54 ’ 83 Hypocaufts 59 , 70’ 123 Coins found 9> ^3 , 40, ‘ 42, 4^ 52? 54 , 59, 6c, 62, 66, 70, 78, 80, 83, 84, 85, 86, 91, 94, 95, loi, 104, 107, 112, 114, 116, 139, 141, 142, 145, 149, 150,- 154, 156, 158, 175, 177, 182, 188, 202, 205 Mojaics 47,66,70,81,83,84, 105, 107, 109, 117^ i55> 158, 162, 202 Ctejar's landing place 127 yulia Domna’% head 157 ulrundcl Colle6lioii Runway Rumjey Ranjgate cliff' Ravenjhank Antoninui’s Iter Infcriptions Preface, 38, 45, 84 141 191 J24 15 vn. -N r 203 ^TV* Vcorredled -I XIV. ^ J 144 XV. ) L204 67, 91, 148, 169 Celtic Antiquities. Tumuli 5, 19, 29, 30, 38,43, 74, 106, 107, 113, 115,118, 127, I2r, 135, 156, 160, 162, 165, 179, 184, 188, 189, 191, 202 Inftruments dug up 12, 57, 58, 59, 91 Oppida 53, 77, 78, 124, 135, 138, 182, 191 Cufus 109 Temples 48, lOO, 136, 140, 149 G'ri?nefditch 47, 179 FLig'biditch 79 Brentditch 79 Boundary of the Belgic kingdom I. Page 189 II. 187 III. »38 Wanfdike IV. 64, 142, 145 The Albionites 189 Thefe Celtic works ancienter than the Roman 141, 142, 188 Britifh Camps. Aukbury 138 Credon hill . 70 Bujhill 77 By Eaft Hamjlead »77 Ha rbury banks 78 Maiden bower 115 Wilbury 77 Warmleighton 49 Tadmerton 49 Burbich »39 Mentaris M/luarium 5 Cavata 8S VlBi us 88 Bibroci 62, 204 Atrebates 202 Nadre »35 Antona 193, 201 Belgce »35 Dobuni 140, 197 Religious Houfes. Vaudy 12 Sempringham 12 Skirbec 25 Friefon 25 Hagnaby 29 Crowland 32 Northampton 1 37 Bicejler 43 Tame 44 Ojney 45 Ruleigh 45 Godjhw 46 Chipping Norton 48 Dale 53 Chefter 59 Reading 62 Marlborough 63 Hereford 7 » Leominfer 72 Ludlow 74 Ran fey 8 r Ncdion 88 Kyrne 88 Barlings 88 Bardney 88 Tupholme 88 Stickfwold 88 Kirkjlei 88 Revejb'^ 88 Rijb'i 95 Gokewell 95 Thornton 100 Leicejler 109 Sopwell 117 Feverjham 121 GlaJJenbttry i 5 r Cowic »58 Exeter 158 Wimburn 190 '^^^wuJam hanc ic^m> ulil)t/rrimM vi/rff oj^^e/rirccn-tUt tcftwrutoy ejrw CVs et BRL ___ ^ntiauitafu tnUrm Cimiliumy S). (^a/rx>hA^'^i^ 0 rtra/nTU^ i/35-— ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM: O R, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ANTIQUITIES, AND REMARKABLE CURIOSITIES I N NATURE OR ART, OBSERVED IN TRAVELS THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN. ILLUSTRATED WITH COPPER PLATES. CENTURIA II. TO WHICH IS ADDED, The It I NERARY of Richard of Cirencester, MONK OF WESTMINSTER. With an ACCOUNT of that AUTHOR and his WORK. By WILLIAM STUKELEY, M. D. F. R. & A. S. O Patria, O Diviim domus, Albion, mclyta bello ! O quam te memorem, quantum juvat ufque morari Mirarique tua fpedlacula plurima terree / LONDON: Printed for MefTrs. Baker and Leigh, in York-Street, Covent-Garden. M .DCC.LXXVI. , \ \ f 2 :^ , J V , - ■ ;N; ' ' --'C ■ .. f ■ : 1 't ■ ■ .f - '1 \ .A ADVERTISEMENT. HAT Dr. Stukeley had altered the plan of his intended Hiftory of the antient Celts, &c. mentioned in the Preface of the former part of this work, plainly appears by his publihiing Stonehenge and Abufy feparately: but, as many of the Plates he left unpub- lifhed were undoubtedly intended for that Work, and others Tor a Second Volume of the Itinerarium, neither of which were ever completed ; the Editor hopes it will give pleafure to the Learned to fee thofe Plates, together with fuch of his Tradls as relate to them, collected into one Volume, and that they will be found not altogether unworthy of their attention —fenfible however that the many defedls which mull unavoidably happen in publifhing a Pofthumous Colledtion from loofe papers, and notes carelefsly thrown together, will Hand in need of their candid indulgence. The Itinerary of Richard of Cirencefter, together with Dr. Stukeley’s Account of, and Obfervations upon it, were thought by fome Friends of the Do6lor a very proper addition. It is 'a tra6l truly valuable for the new light it has thrown on the fludy of Britifh Antiquities, and being out of print is now become very fcarce. It may be expedled that fome account fhould in this place be given of the Author, and his Works. A Catalogue of thofe which have appeared in print we fubjoin ; and for his Life we refer the reader to Mr. Mallers’s Hiftory of Benet College, Cambridge, printed in quarto, 1753 ; adding only, that he died March 3d, 1765, in his 78th year, and was buried in the church-yard of Eaft-Ham in Effex, having ordered by his will that no memorial of him fhould be erefted there. A A CATALOGUE of Dr. STUKELEY’s Printed WORKS. 4to. An Account of Arthur’s Oon and the Roman Vallum in Scotland — ■— 1720 Fol. Ledlure on the Spleen — — — 1722 Fol. Itinerarium Curiofum - - J724 i2mo. A Treatife on the Caufe and Cure of the Gout — ^734 4to. An Explanation of a Silver Plate found at Rifley in Derby Ihire ^ 73 ^ 4to. Palaeographia Sacra, N°' i. or Difcourfes on the Monuments of Antiquity that ^elate to Sacred Hiftory — 173 d Fol. Stonehenge, a Temple reftored to the Britilh Druids 1740 4to. A Sermon preached before the Houfe of Commons, 30 Jan. 1741 - - ^ ^ -- 1741 Fol. Abury, a Temple reftored to the Britifh Druids > — ^743 4to. Pal^ographia Britannica, N®- i. or Difcourfes on Monuments of Antiquity that relate to Britifh Hiftory - ^743 4to. Palseographia Britannica, N°- 2. ——- —— 1746 A Philofophic Hymn on Eafter-Day — —• 174 ^ Verfes on the Death of the Duke of Montagu ■—^749 4to. A Sermon before the College of Phyficians, 20 Sept. ^ 75 ° 4to. Palaeographia Britannica, N°- 3. ^ 75 ^ An Account of Lefnes Abbey, read before the Antiquarian Society, 12 April, 1753, and publifhed in the Archae- ologia An Account of the Eclipfe predicted by Thales, publifhed in Phil. Tranf. Vol. 48 An Account of the Sanctuary at Weftminfter, publifhed in the Archaeologia - —— ^755 12mo. The Philofophy of Earthquakes, 2 parts — ^755 4to. Medallic Hiftory of Caraufius, Emperor in Britain, part i. 1757 4to. Medallic Hiftory of Caraufius, part 2. —■ ^ ^759 4to. Palasographia Sacra, N®- 2. — » — 1763 4to. A Letter from Dr. Stukeley to Mr. Macpherfon on his publication of Fingal and Temora, with a Print of Cathmor’s Shield -- — - 17^3 Several Moral Papers in the Infpedtor. He was alfo engaged, at the time of his death, in a work entitled the Medallic Hiftory of the antient Kings of Britain j and had engraved 23 Plates of their Coins, which were publifhed by his Executor j but the Manufcript was too imperfe(ft; to be given to the Public. The ■^ 1 - ■•r I ‘- - 4 \ f V-i- The BRILL^ Caesar’s Camp at Pancras. 06 lober 1758. M any and large volumes have been written on the celebrated city of London, which now, beyond doubt, for magnitude, fplen- dor, riches, and traffic, exceeds every city upon the globe: the famous Pekin of China only boafts itfelf to be larger. London, then called Trinobantum^ was a confiderable trading emporium in Britifli times, and before Caefar’s arrival here. But the greateft curiofity of London, and what renders it highly illuftrious, has never been obferved by any writer: to give fome account of it, is the purpofe of this paper. When I refided in London in the former part of my life, I propofed to myfelf, as a fubjeft of inquiry, for my excurfions now and then on horl'eback round the circuit of the metropolis, to trace out the journey- ings of Caefar in his Britifh expeditions. This I account the (era from whence we derive the certain intelligence of the Rate and affairs of our native country. I was pretty succefsful therein, and made many draw¬ ings of his camps, and manhons; feveral of which I then engraved with a defign of printing the copious memoirs I had wrote concerning them. No fubjedt concerning our own country antiquities could be more noble. But what I mean to fpeak of at this time, is a camp of his, which I have long fince oblerved no farther off than Pancras church. In all my former travels, I ever propofed an entertainment of the mind, in inquiries into matters of antiquity, a former Rate of things in my own country : and now it is eafy to imagine the pleafure to be found in an agreeable walk from my fituation in Queen’s Square, through the fields that lead me to the footReps of Caefar, when, without going to foreign parts, I can tread the ground which he trod. By finding out feveral of his camps, I was enabled, off-hand, to diRinguifh them j and they are very different from all others we meet withal. It was the method of Roman difcipline, to make a camp every night, though they marched the next morning; but in an expedition like Caefar’s, in a new and unknown country, he was to truR to his own head, and the arms of his troops, more than to banks and ditches : yet, for the fake of difcipline, a camp muR be made every night; it was their manlion, and as an home; where was the prcetorium^ or general’s tent, and the Praetorian cohorts, as his guards; it was the refidcnce of the majeRy of the Roman genius, in the perfon of the commander; it VoL. II. B was was as a fixed point, fubfervient to order and regular difeipline militaryj where and whence every portion and fubdivifion of an army knew their regular, appointment and aftion. ^ This camp was very fmail; defigned but for a night’s abode, unlefs the exigence of affairs required fome flay ; but the third part of the army lying under arms every night, prevented the danger of a furprife. Ciefar, led on by divine Providence, entered our country in the year before the vulgar asra of Chrifl 54. the fecond time, about the middle of the month of July, as we now reckon, in his own Julian kalendar. I diail not recapitulate what I have obferved of the footfteps of this great man in Kent j I hefitate not in believing that Carvilius, one of the four kings, as called, who attacked his camp while he was on this fide the Thames, lived at Guildford j the name of the place hiows it 3 the river was called Villy^ or Willy, a common British name for rivers; fo that Carvilius was a local title of honour, as vras the Britifh cuftom, like that of our prefent nobility: fo Cafvelhan, Caefar’s opponent, was king of the Cajjii^ Cogidubnus of the Dobiini^ Togodumnus of the T) 111111107211 , Tacog being Dux in Britifh. It was the method of the Bri- ' tilh princes thus to take the names of towns, and of people, as it was the method of their anceffors the Midianites; of which we find an inftance in Jofephus, Antiq. iv. 7. Rekam, a king there, of the fame name as his city, the capital of all Arabia; now Petra. Caeiar palled the Thames at Coway Bakes, notwithffanding the Bakes: the town of Chertfey preferves a memorial of his name, a& Cherburg in France; he purfued the Britons along the bank of the Thames as far as Sheperton, where the Bakes were placed, and there pitched his camp with the back of it upon the Thames. At his camp on Greenfield common, near Staines, a fplendid embaffy came to him from the Londoners; defiring his alliance and protection, and that he would reBore their prince Mandubrace, who was then in his retinue. To his little camp, ox prcetorium, on this account he orders another to be drawn round it, for reception of thefo ambaffadors, and their prince, together with forty hoBages which he demanded, and corn for his army. Upon this, ambaffadors came - to him from the Cenimani, people of CambridgeB'iire 3 the Segontiaci, Hampfliire 3 Ancalites, Buckingham- Biire 3 Bibroci, about Berkfhire 3 and Cajii, of Hertfordflnre 3 Bibmitting themfelves to him. For them he orders another appendix to his camp, to receive them. When bufinefs was done with them, he moves forward to attack Cafvelhan, who was retreated into his fortified town at Watford. One of his camps thitherward, is to be feen very fair on HounBow heath, in the way to Longford 3 which I fhowed to lord Hertford then prefident, and to lord Winchelfea vice-prefident, of the Antiquarian Society, in April, 17233 who meafured it, and expreffed the greateB pleafure at the fight. His next camp was at Kingfbury: it is now the church-yard, and Bill vifible enough: its Btuation is high, and near the river Brent: the church Bands in the middle of it. From hence he went, and forced Cafvelhan’s military oppidum at Watford, and Rickmanfworrh 3 a gravelly ifland of high ground, paludibufque munitum, as lie exprefles it 3 and by this he brought Cafvel¬ han to fubmit. It is not my prefent purpofe to fpeak largely on thefe particulars 3 ' . '■'v > -• •'•••:» v'-r. •• •- • .-.v-^ •.. • ■:^'- iHv ■i .' ; '■ t;.:- ■ ■■' '•^ ti ■.. v^. / $ C amp_ Ancalites^ Bibroci and CaUii. This obliged THE BRILL. 8 obliged the canip-mafter to add the appendix to the camps, which was of the breadth of loo paces, equal to the length of the laft; 130 in length, ilretching out to the eaft: but in the ground-plot of that camp we fee an egregious proof of my pofition, that they went by paces in maiking out their camps; and fometimes by guefs-work, in the fquare j which obliged the camp-mafter to carry his 130 paces beyond the angle of the former camp. Concerning the method of adding new occafional works to a former camp, we obferve a like inftance in that camp of Chloros’s between Clarendon palace and Old Sarum; made, we may well prefume, on the ftates of Britain fending their ambafiadors hither to him, with fubmiliion to his government after the deftruffion of Alledlus. Ccefar’s camp on Hounflow heath is very perfedf, fixty paces fquare. His camp at Kingfbury is thirty paces broad, and forty in length. Come we now to our work at Pancras. The prcetoriiim is forty paces broad from eafl to weft, fifty paces long from north to fouth: the prcBtorium of Mandubrace is thirty paces long from eaft to weft, forty from north to fouth : thereby it accommodated itfelf to that part of the camp, that wms called rete^^tllra. The breadth of the whole camp was 400 paces, not reckoning the valley of the brook : the length of the whole is 500 paces. Examine the intermediate parts, they fall into whole numbers: the breadth of the pafture, comprehending the ftation of the Hajlati and ‘Triarii^ on the weft hde of the camp, is 150 paces: that of the horfe is forty broad: the correfpondent, or eaftern part of the camp, is likewife 150 paces broad, comprehending the ftation of the I’riarii and Haflati fo that, fubdufting the fpace of the valley where the brook runs, the whole breadth of the camp, where the tents are pitched, contains 340 paces : a fpace beyond, on each fide, of thirty paces wide, is fuppofed to be left between the tents and the vallum^ where a camp is fortified: and then the camp contains juft 400 paces broad. The camp is in length 500 paces: the thirty paces beyond, for the way between the tents and vallum, (where a vallum is made) amounts to 560; fo that the proportion of length to breadth is as 3 to 2; where ftrength and convenience is well adjufted, and is often the proportion of Roman cities. This fpace of ground was fufficient for Caefar’s army, according to Roman difeiplinej for, if he had 40,000 men, a third part of them were upon guard. The recovery of this moft noble antiquity will give pleafure to a Bri- tifn antiquary j efpecially an inhabitant of London, whereof it is a lin¬ gular glory: it renders the walk over the beautiful fields to the Brill doubly agreeable, when, at half a mile diftance, we can tread in the very fteps of the Roman camp-mafter, and of the greateft of the Roman generals. We need not wonder that the traces of this camp, fo near the metro¬ polis, are fo nearly worn out: we may rather wonder, that fo much is left, when a proper fagacity in thefe matters may difeern them j and be affured, that fomewhat more than three or four forry houfes, is com¬ memorated under the name of the Brill: nor is it unworthy of remark, as an evident confirmation of our fyftem, that all the ditches and fences now upon the ground, have a manifeft refpedl to the principal members of the original plan of the camp. In THE BRILL. 9 In this camp at Pancras, Caefar made the two Britifli kings friends; Cafvelhan, and his nephew Mandubrace ; the latter, I fuppofe, prefented him with that coi ilet of pearls, which he gave to Venus in the temple at Rome, which he built to her, as the fuundrefs of his family. —Pliny and Solinus. Mr. White of Newgate-ftreet has a gold Britifli coin, found in an urn in Oxfordfliire, together with a gold ring fet with a pearl. When Caefar returned, he found letters to him, acquainting him with his daughter Julia’s death. Plutarch. I fhail conclude with this obfervation, that on Caefar’s return to the con¬ tinent, the Moriniy inhabiting the oppofite fhore, lay in wait for his men, hoping to obtain great fpoils. This was in his firft expedition: it fhows Britain was not fo defpicable a country as authors generally make it: much more might they have expelled it in return from his fecond expedition, when the nations of the Cattichlaniy Bibroci Ancalites^ PrinohanteSt Cenimani^ Segontiaci^ fent ambafladors to him, feeking his favour} all charged with magnificent gifts: and, beyond doubt, the Londoners were not flack, for fo great a favour as prote6ling them from the infults of Cafvelhan, and reftoring to them their king Mandubrace. Csefar, having accomplifhed his purpofes here, returned by Smallbury green, in order to pafs the Thames again at Chertfey. Smallbury green was then an open place as now, and has its name from his pratoriujn^ like this at the Brill; the road lately went round it on the north fide; and gravel had long been dug from it, to mend the road} yet I could difcern part of it, till, three years ago, they made a new road acrofs the green, and totally ruined the praetorium. There is a fpring arifes at the place. It is fit we fhould fay fomewhat of the city of London, the glory of Britain. Csefar calls the inhabitants of this country Prinobantes: it com¬ prehends Middlefex and Efi'ex on this fide the river} Surry on the other. The name of Prinobantes is derived from Primbantum^ the mod: ancient name of London : it fignifies the city of the Novii^ or Novantes^, the ori¬ ginal name of the people called Prinobantes by Caefar. Pri, or Pre^ in the very old Britifh dialed!, imports a fortified city. Many names of this kind ftill remain, in Cornwall efpecially. Noviomagm moll certainly is Croydon in Surry. Magus in Britifli fignifies a city on a down, or heath. Newington on the South of Lon¬ don, and Newington on the north, retain evident remains of the name of the Nodantes. In many coins of the great king Cunobeline, nephevv of our prince Mandubrace, we have infcribed T ASCIO NOV ANT VM, meaning the tribute of the Londoners, and of the people Novantes^ dependent on them, called by C^far Prinobantes. The Novii., or Novantes, the original people of this country, knew how to take the proper advantage of the noble river Thames, and built this their fortified city of Prinobantum upon a mod: convenient fituation, celebrated by all writers. The inhabitants of this potent city carried on a very confiderable trade with the continent, and were rich and flourifh- ing, as thofe numerous coins of Cunobeline are evidences beyond all exception. Lotidinium copia negotiatorum Cf commeatuum maxime celebre, fays Tacitus. Thefe coins are in gold, filver, copper: I have engraved twenty-three plates of them. Nor, in my opinion, have we reafon to doubt of Billings-gate being built by him, as his royal cuflom-houfe j and why Ludgate fhould not take nam.e from Immanuence Lud, father • VoL. II. D of IO THE BRILL. of our prince Mandubrace, I fee not. The bufinefs of a fociety of anti¬ quaries is to feparate truth from fable, by evidence, by reafon, and judge¬ ment. Authors are certainly miftaken in thinking our Britifh anceftors a rude and barbarous people. Need we a further teftimony of our conti¬ nental trade, Ccefar fpeaks of the Gaulilh merchants who traded hither: he convened them together to inquire concerning the nature of the country j and I have the ftrongeft reafons in the world to induce me to believe, that Britain was peopled before the oppofite continent, by a great and polite nations and that our Britidi coins are the oldeft of any in Europe. Cunobeline, very young, was carried to Rome by his uncle Man¬ dubrace, four years after Caefar’s expedition here, and his reftitution to the kingdom of the T'rinobantes. Cunobeline became well acquainted, and even intimate with Auguftus, in the dawning of his power; being about the fame age. Auguftus entertained a great kindnefs for him ; and he bore a fnare in his warfare, being praefedl of a Roman legion, the XX. VV. called Cretica^ as Richard of Cirencefter informs us; which is the reafon that he fo often ftruck the figure of a boar on his Britifh coins, that being the enfign and cognifance of the legion. After he returned, and was king of Britain, he kept up a friendfhip and corre- fpondence with Auguftus, during his whole, and that a very long life. He ftruck many coins in honour of Auguftus, and the plaineft imitations of the coins of Auguftus. He fent him magnificent prefents, paid a tribute to him, built the city Csefaromagus in compliment to him. He celebrated the Adtiac games like thofe done by Agrippa at Rome, by Herod at Caefarea, and many other ftates of the Roman empire. By thefe means he ftaved off, for his life, an adlual fubjedfion of Britain to the Romans. I cannot agree with my late learned friend Mr. Baxter in his deri¬ vation of Trmobantum^ that it is of Belgic original. The word Tri or T’re of the old Cornifh, prefixed, fufficiently confutes the notion : here is none of the Belgic pronunciation, as in the weft of England. Csefar’s affertion of the fupereminent power of the T’rhiobanteSi Ihows they were an ab¬ original people : they had indeed been under fome fort of fubjedlion to the Ca/Jiiy or Cattichleimi ; but that may have been recent, when Cafvelhan invaded them, and flew their king, his brother Immanuence, father to our Mandubrace, as Caefar tells us. The very name of their neighbours, Cattichleimi^ confirms our opinion; fignifying the clan of the CaJJii ; a moft ancient word of the Britons, equivalent to the Latin ci^itasy ufed by Caefar; ftill in ufe in Scotland. Baxter owns the Caffii to be of Frifian, or Britifh origin. This word Frifian puts us iir mind of the Britifli ftories of Trinoban-- turn being Troja novay built by the wandering Trojans: fo deep rooted among our anceftors is the notion of a Trojan original. I know feveral foundations that may be aftigned for this notion: one feems to come from the utmoft fource of antiquity, the founder of the Britifh nation, APHER, grandfon of ABRAHAM : for which 1 can bring very large proofs, not fo much pertaining to this place. He is the Greek Phryxus, a near relation to Melicerta or Melcartus, the Tyrian Hercules: he founded the Phrygians; he gave name to Africa, and Britain; fo that Phrygiiy Frifonesy and BrygeSy Britonesy BriganteSy are all words in different pronunciation meaning the fame. Of it I fay no more at pre- fent, than that it further illuftrates my opinion of the Trinobantes being a moft ancient, an aboriginal people here ; and that their city was fenced about, whether with a wall, or with a vallum and ditch, I cannot pretend to fay, any more than when it was firft called Londinium : and it is not my humour to carry conje6lures beyond what they will reafonably bear. But I think I am not diftant from truth, when I judge the Novii to be the fame as the Nuba of Africa, on the weft fide the Nile; neighbour to the LrogloditeSy fays Strabo: thefe were neighbours too to the Arabians; the Red fea between them : natural navigators they muft needs be. And Jofephus makes the children of ABRAHaM by Kcturah to be fettled by him in Trogloditis, and Arabia the Happy, upon the Red fea. Antiq. i. 15. The colony of thefe people at Cadiz is always faid to come from the Red fea. Pliny mentions the Nubai-, a people of Arabia De ferta. Further, Novant a are a people in the weft of Scotland, now Galloway. Novantum promontorium^ the Mull, CherfonefuSy and Novaritce ; and the city Novantiuy north of Severus’s wall. The river Nid, in Scotland, is called Novius. No reafon to think either one or the other of Belgic original, but undoubtedly a colony of our ’frinobantes. Jofephus, in his xiv. of the antiquities of the Jews, gives us the decree of the fenate and people of Pergamus, in favour of the Jews; fetting forth, ‘‘ Since the Romans, following the condudl of their anceftors, undertake dangers for the common fafety of mankind, and “ are ambitious to fettle their confederates and friends in happinefs, ** and in firm peace—” The decree proceeds as at large fet forth by Jofephus, and well wor¬ thy perufal; concluding, “ That the Jews would remember, their “ anceftors were friendly to the Jews, even in the days of ABRAHAM, “ who was the father of the Hebrews ; as we have alfo found it fet “ down in our public records.” Many ufeful obfervations may be made from this teftimony. 1. We learn hence, mankind at that time, which was but about forty years before the vulgar Chriftian ara^ had the fame notion of the Romans, as I have enlarged upon in chap. i. of the Medallic Hiftory of Caraufius. The Romans, for their valour, virtue, fortitude and temperance, were the nation chofen by divine Providence to conquer, polifh, and fet free, all the world, to prepare for the advent of Mefliah. 2. Thefe Phrygians were a colony of the defendants of ABRAHAM by Keturah. At Pergamus the ancient and famous phyfician iTfculapius had a fhop, and praftifed phyfic, as Lucian teftifies. Midian, the father of Pbryxus, APHER, was a great phyfician, and no other than the Greek Chiron; as I have fliown elfewhere: fo our Druids, the people of APHER, were famous for medicine. The Genius of phyfic remained at the place: the famous Galen was born here. 3. Thefe people alTert, what they fay is written in their public records; fo that they had an early ule of letters, from the Abrahamic family: our Druids likewife had the ule of letters from the fame fountain. 4. What they fay is confirmed by the Lacedemonians claiming like kindred to the Jews j as we read in Maccabees, xii. 19. 23. and Jofephus, xii. 4. 10. Mr. Whifton mentions, on this occafion, the teftimony of the Ai'menian writer, Moles Chorenenlis; affirming that Arfaces, foun¬ der of the Parthian empire, was of the feed of ABRAHAM, by Ke¬ turah : and thus we find this pofterity of the great patriarch, from Bri¬ tain by fea, to Parthia by land; the extent of the habitable world: and Jofephus 12 THE BRILL. Jofephus often mentions his countrymen the Jews exceeding numerous, in after-times, in every country and city throughout the habitable world j which is true to this very day, both in refpedl to Jews, properly fpeak- ing, by Sarah, as well as the Arabians by Hagar, and Keturah: for by thefe latter all Afia and Africa are at this day peopled; the fignal favour of God to the greateft of all men, ABRAHAM. Return we to the city of Trinobantum. I fhall mark out the original form, which we may conceive it to have been of, in the time we are writing of. If we look on the plan of London, which I engraved long ago in my Itiner. Cur, we difcern, the original ground-plot of the oldeft part of the city is comprehended, in length, from Ludgate to the prefent Walbroke; in breadth, from Maiden 4 ane, Lad-lane, Cateaton-ftreet, to the Thames. This makes an oblong fquare, in proportion as 2 to 3 : I have there made it to be compofed of two principal ftreets, croffing two other principal ftreets j which makes nine principal quadrangular fpaces, for the habitations, area's^ and public buildings. I have reafon ftill to acquiefce in this difpofition of the moft ancient city of London ; as we muft fuppofe it in the time of Immanuence, father to Caefar’s ally Mandubrace, whom he now refettled therein. I am very much confirmed in my opinion, by the ground-plot I have lately made of Cafaromagus^ now Chelmsford, built by Mandubrace’s nephew, the great king Cunobeline, to the honour of Auguftus, his great friend and ally j for that city was exadlly of the fame form and difpofition. Hence then we gather, the oldeft London was bounded on the weft by Ludgate, and the wall there j on the eaft, by the current or rivulet called Walbroke, coming from the morafs of Moorfields ; which morafly ground extended to Smithfield, and guarded the whole north fide of the city ; as the Thames on the fouth: it is well known, that the Manfion- houfe ftands on a great and deep morafly ditch; that the foundation of it coft a very great fum, in driving piles, and the like, to fet the build¬ ing upon. The city of London is fituate much as Alexander projedted for Alexandria, between a morafs and the fea. Here was a natural and good boundary on all fides. To the weft was a fteep cliff hanging over the rivulet of Fleet: its fteepnefs is very con- fiderable now, as may be feen about the Old Bailey, v/here is at prefent a flight of fteps, through the old wall: in former days it was much more confiderable: the other fides had the river and water j fo that the fpot pitched upon for the city muft be reckoned very judicious: the foil a hard and dry gravel. There is the ftrongeft confirmation for this aflignment, deducible from obferving three principal roads leading from the gate of Walbroke, at the end of the Poultry, at Stocks market, or the Manfion-houfe : Corn- hill was the great road diredtly into Effex : Lombard-ftreet condudted to Cunobeline’s cuftom-houfe. Billingsgate: Threadneedle-ftreet and Broad-ftreet went obliquely toward the north-eaft, and the prefent Biftiops-gate, and fo in later times to the great Roman road called Hermen-ftreet, crofling the Thames where London bridge now is; making a meridian line through the length of the ifland. By collating feveral old plans of London, I difcern there were four principal ftreets running from weft to eaft. i. The Watling-ftreet, from Ludgate. 2. Thames-ftreet, the boundary toward the river : this on the right hand of Watling-ftreet. 3. On the left hand, Cheapfide, Pater-nofter row being originally part thereof: at the end of it, beyond / C a?iaix)iiiag’iis Inii/^lyXmg' CiMiobe/ifie lircaixtre Jiond. Jieria^ec/i Scu/y ::.J,, ■.. ;-,■ ; ., ;,C' yX-' ,; ■ ■■ ■% ■"■ .,, ■ %■% ■' ■■ ...y : .^■* 4 ■, 4 ■ '■’> .' '^'.% ;'. 7 ' 7 ' " ' M''}i- ’ ■’, ‘ ‘C''' '’I' ” ! ■ 7 ! ■ ' ll';. • i. r.!, ■: ■ .i.;M «V ; V ,j , :r ■^ > 7 ; . ■ : t-; ,: ■ :.t:: T ■ ■ ■'S'k. ,V I i .'A' ■•V- •!. 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CottuA AAm'/i^ea yf/z/zzA^ Cce/aj'dze y^dcz/Tztzz ur)', imports : it is not far from the Rigning-way. Thf fignifies an eminence. Under¬ neath it we veent through Hilton. The lord of the manor there held of the dukes, by a ridiculous appearance before him, on the day after ChriHmas, whilH Jack of Hilton blowed the fire. Of this, of the king of the fidlers, of the b-di-running, See. fee a large account in Dr. Plot. Mr. Gale fays, this Jack of Hilton veas a Saxon idol, called Poujier : it was made of brafs, hollow, with a little hole, which when filled with water, and fet before the fire, as an aeolipile, vented its contents in vapor, rarihed with great force. This was a good philofophical trick to delude the vulgar, and would appear like magic to them, ignorant of the caufe. Mr. Prefcot of CheHer fliowed us the imprefion of an intaglia found at Uttoxeter. A mile and half off Derby we fell into the Rigning-Hreet coming from Burton j which, leaving Derby a little on the eaH, paffes over Nun-green to Den entio: there it croffed the river on a bridge, and thence went to Cheilerheld. D E R V E N T J O. I find the Rigning proceeds over the common, by the mill and brook at the well end of Derby, and falls into a valley, which gives a gentle defeent to the river Hde, every where elfe Heep, over-againH the old city: this, no doubt, is the reafon why the Romans placed it in that very fpot. The river is very broad and deep, equal to the Medway at MaidHone; the fides Heep, fo that a ford was not at all practicable : it is fix or feven foot deep here at leaH. Darley Hade is the name of the valley where the defeent of the road is: they call the road the Fofs here¬ abouts ; which fnows that no more is meant by the name, than that it is an artificial work: the Fofs and Rigning therefore are but fynonymous terms. A little up the river, beyond the city, was the bridge : in time of a froH, when there is clear ice, they can fee the foundation of the piers very plainly, and a piece of one is Hill left. Thence the road proceeds over the paHure, where, after a fortnight’s dry weather in fummer, they can diHinguilh it by the parched grafs: it goes up the valley north of Bradfal, by Priory hall, fo to Chefterfield. Another fuch way, they fay, went up the hill directly from the Hreet of the city by Chadsden: part of it has been dug up near the town by the Crown ale-houfe, ITER B O R E A L E. 25 ale-houfe, and its ridge is lliill vifible. In the pailure over-againft the houfe two fquare Roman wells were opened by a violent flood in Sir Simon Degg’s time: they were made of very broad flat ftones, let into one another, and were paved at bottom with bricks fet edge-wife, as they tell me. Roman coins are found in every road, foot-path, and ditch, about the town: they nevTr dig in the gardens, or paftures, but they find them, together with rings and other antiquities. A man who kept the Duke’s-head ale-houfe found feven fcore at a time in digging a hole to fet a poflf in; but they are all difperfed. The city of Derven- tio is in polfeffion of the deanery of Lincoln: the city walls were dug up in great quantities to mend the ways with; but they were fo ftrong, they were forced to blow them up with gunpowder. There is much painted glafs in Morley church, a mile beyond Bradfal, and tombs of the Sache- verels. A piece of the wall of Derveniio is left under Mr. Hodgkinibn’s garden-houfe. I faw a piece of a vafe of coral-coloured earth found there, alfo feveral pieces of pillars; and they meet with foundations wherever they dig. Mrs. Hodgkinfon fhowed us a gold Anaffafius, vidloria aug. g. g. faid to be found near Leicefter ; and a fllver Arcadius. I faw a large brafs coin, found at Derventio, Diva Faujlma. I find this city is exaftly of the fame dimenfions as Mandiiejjedum^ 120 paces long, 80 broad. I rode to the hill fouth of Littleover, upon the Rigning-way, which lies in a ftrait line under the eye as far as Etocetmn, and the hills beyond it. Litchfield cathedral appears a little to the weft of it. The valley of the Trent, by Burton, is bounded on each hand by great heights. Rep- ton, the burial-place of Ethelbald and other Mercian kings, is in view. From the other fide of the hill, north of Littleover, the road butts upon the valley of Bradfal, by Priory hall, direftly over Derventio. The Rig- ning is the common road from Burton to Derby, till a little north of Littleover it defcends the hill to the left of the common road, which there is drawn to the right on account of Derby. I faw a great number of coins found here; Trajan, Caraufius, Vi6forinus, Magnentius, Dio- clefian, Valens, &c. Mr. Hodgkinson gave me a Conflantine, foli invidio comiti., ftruck at London. I meafured the cafirmn with exatfnefs ; it is 600 foot long, 500 broad. We faw the wall on the outfide Mr. Lord’s houfe: the mortar is full of pebbles as big as nuts, but exceflively hard. Darley Slade is a fine defcent for the road. We faw the admirable filk- looms again: there is a large additional building to them. The five churches here have all tower-fleeples : tiie new one, a fpacious and neat pile; the tower belonging to it, of old work, is (lately. There is an old chapel on the bridge. A weak chalybeat water was found out lately, two miles off. The market-place is a pretty fquare. Entering the Peak country, where the rocks begin, we faw two tumuli on the edges of two oppofite hills. We came by the great rock called RadclifP, where the hermitage is; thefe and the neighbouring rocks have a frightful appearance: on the back of them are fome flones ' fet upright, two and two, as if the remains of a Celtic avenue. All around, the hills are big with lead ore. The cattle drinking the water here are liable to a diftemper called the belon : it is owing to the mer¬ cury that falls in the fmoak of the fmelting-mills: they become afth- matic, and frequently run mad. Cats, dogs, and poultry, are feized with it. VoL. II. H BAKEV/ELL. I T E 11 B O R E A L E. 26 B A K E W E L L. T his town feems to be Roman, and polbbly its name was Braciacdi because of the infcription found near here in Camden, DEO MARTI BRACT AC AE. There is a large tall ftone in the church-yard, raifed on a pedeiial, as a crofs, with engravings, very ancient, of George and the dragon, a crncifix and other things, with flower-work: it is eight foot high, befides the pedeftal. The church is a large handfome build¬ ing, but in very bad repair; a fpire-fteeple upon an oCtagonal tower, and that fet on a fquare one; the whole in the middle of the church; the choir large : an aiabafter tomb before the altar, of one of the family of Vernon ; the fouth tranfept has, in a large chapel, many tombs of the Vernons, and Manners’s, anceftors of the duke of Rutland, but in a ruinous condition: many other old tombs; a knightly one of Colepepper, one of Foljamb, &c. a very ancient font with images, as rudely cut as thole on the crofs. The church ftands much higher than the town. The Wye is a very rapid river ; it never overflows, fo great is the de¬ flent irom it. The caftle is a fquare plot of high ground, with a large Uuniihis hollow at top. I cannot affirm there is any thing Roman. This town Bands in a flat valley, where the river pafles in meanders; and the proipedt every way is very lomantic. A cold bath at the Angel inn, arched over, and made very convenient. Derbyfhire marble wrought here, very beautiful, bears a good polifh, full of helem?iites and other curious fliells petrined together. CHATSWORTH. We reviewed this noble feat of the duke of Devonfhire’s. The front of the houfe is a fine defign; the colour of the ftone agreeably overcaft with a faint rednefs. Several antique marbles : upon the pedeftal of a bufto this infcription, P. lElius Aug. liberius. Lycus jecit Solufa Ubertet fiKz. a fepulchral urn. Another, Dis manibus P/. Claudi thalliani Vix. Ann. XX. dieb. XX. Claudia Jelicula Mater Jilio piijjimo. The canal hewn out of the rock is made where a great hill was: now it opens a beautiful profpedt towards Winfter : it is 325 yards long, 25 broad : the hill was 44 foot high : the cafcade is 212 yards long, with 23 breaks. There is an admirable antique Plato in the duke’s library, like that at Wilton; and a caft of Hobbes from the life: alfo an antique ram’s head. The painting about the houfe is by Verrio, la Guerre, Thornhill: the gallery is a curious room, painted by Cheron. Vaft quantities of Derbyfnire marble, of all colours, and beautiful. BUXTON. Juft before we come to this place, on the right hand is a fquare vallumy ditch inward; both fmall, about fifty feet each fide: eaftward adjoins a roundifli fpace, marked out in the fame manner. There are barrows upon the tips of the hills hereabouts. We found infinite quantities of fhells among the ftone: but tht belemnites are moft frequent; they are dropped as it were into the fuperficies of the ftone, while foft, with the points downwards. The foil of this country is fandy and rock: the whole fuperficies of it is a rock, whofe flrata lie every where parallel to the declivity of the ground : it is lime-ftone, like that at Bath; but the ITER B O R E A L E. the layers of it are much thicker. One may guefs hence, that this fort of ftone by fome means procures the warmth of the waters. We faw Mam Torr from hence feven miles ; a jfleep huge rock ele¬ vated above the hills. There is a great yawning between two rocks fplit as it were from top to bottom : on the precipice of one jaw is an old caftle, whence the adjacent town Caftleton. Between it is the great cavern called the Devil’s Arfe. A few little houfes under the very rock. This country is fruitful in what we may call the 7 nagnalia natur ce. By thefe wonders of the Peak, and the warm waters, people are tempted to vifit thefe wild waftes. At a place called Hope I learnt there are fome ftones, called Marvel-ftones, which cannot be numbered ; I guefs them to be a Celtic temple. I could not hear of thofe at Chelmerton, though I fanc)» there muft be fuch, becaufe of fome barrows on the hills looking that way : it requires fome time, labour, and hazard, to hunt them out, by reafon of the rockinefs of the country. The fides of the hills, where the villages are, are divided into clofes by ftone walls, as in other places by hedges. We went into Pool’s Hole again. This cavern rifes, as we go farther in, with the hill : the ftones within are covered over with petrifaHion, from the water diftilling down : fome of the icicles are three or four yards long, hanging from the roof j the flow accretion of ages: the fprings dribble down every where, as draining through the jirata into this cavity. I fancy there are fuch in moft rocky hills, and they caufe fprings; for we may conceive that after the harder fnell of a hill was condenfed, and firft, as being outermoft and more expofed to the external heat, in the infant globe; the internal parts, when they came to harden afterwards, by attradlion of fo much folidity, cracked and fhrunk (as we fee clay does in the open air) and fo left cafual fiftures every where: the water then by degrees found or made an outlet from many meeting together j and this created fountains, moft commonly toward the bottom ol hills. This reafoning is ftrengthened by fprings running in lefs quantity in fummer than winter, becaufe the fun exhales the dew and moifture, not fuffering it fo freely to link down into the earth. Efcaped from this Stygian cave, I revifited the antiquity called the Round Fold, by the road fide from Chelmerton hither, at Stadon j and under the hill called Stadon Hoe. I take it to be a curious Celtic antiquity, much of the nature of thofe which in Anglefey and Wilt- fhire we call Druids houfes: fo in Dorfetfnire circles of ftones they call Folds. The country people fay it was caft up in war-time long ftnee. It confifts of a fquare vallum^ loo feet each fide; the ditch vrhence it came is on the infde: eaftward from this is a circle of i6o feet diameter, of like manner: the whole ftands on an open plain, which declines north¬ ward : the fquare is upon a level; but the circular part declines gently from thence: on that point of the circle fartheft from the fquare is a little femicircular cove of earth, like the place of a tabernacle. It is hard to fay whether it was for a private ufe, or for judicature, or reli¬ gious affairs ; but in the pafture behind it is a barrow, and feveral more barrows in view, on the liill-tops. At Stadon I faw a large fquare' intrenchment, now divided into paftures ; and upon the top of the hoe, where the hawthorn ftands, feem to have been fome works. This cir¬ cle of ours, by finking the ditch within, feems well contrived for flows : ftve or fix tire of people may ftand commcdioufly round it, and look over one another’s heads. Both vallum and ditch are but fraall, much inferior to that of a camp. In I T E II BOREAL E. In the held by the garden at Buxton are two fprings clofe together, one hot, the other cold. Little flint arrow-heads of the ancient Britons, called Elfs arrows, are frequently ploughed up here. Roman plafter found here, mentioned in Thoreiby’s Ducat. Leodiem. p. 558. A Roman road is faid to go hence to Burgh, beyond Elden park. Journeying hence over the remainder of thefe Alpine regions, we come to Goyt houfe, in the very centre of defolation. The moft weftern of thefe hills are more barren and difficult than the others, and fuller of fprings. At length we entered the pleafant country of Chefhire, as into a new world j wondering that people are found who can content themfeives with the poverty and horror of the Peak, fo near riches and dcliaht. MACCLESFIELD Is a pretty large and pleafant tovrn, flreltering itfelf from eaftern blalls by its vicinity to tiiefe high hills; it ftands upon an emi¬ nence, and is famous for manufadf ures of fiik twilling, • mohair, making buttons, &c. The church is placed upon the edge of the hill. South is a large chapel of the ancient family of Rivers {Ripariis) another of the Leighs, Vvliere, for faying a fmall number of Ave~marys and Pater- noficrs^ w^e obtain 26,000 years and odd days of pardon : to fuch a degree of extravagance was the fuperllitious folly of our anceftors advanced! Stockport is built on a hill of rock. The church is fpacious. A place called the Cafile-yard, wailed in. The Tame, Merfey, and other rivers, meet here, failing from the Derbyfliire hills : united they pafs fwiftly through a rocky channel under a bridge of a Angle arch, large and well turned: they cut themfeives houfes in the rock here, as at Nottingham. Sometimes the floods reach the top of the bridge. M A N C V N I V M. 1 he Roman caflrum was on the well fide of the Roman road going from Chefler, bv Stretford, and on the northern bank of the river Medloc. It is a fmall piece of level ground, fornewhat higher than that around it: it does not cover the whole piece, but is a fquare, 500 foot one vvay, 400 the other; nor can it well be faid to be ditched about; but the ground near it, for fome diftance, is manifeftly removed into the callle, and fpread along its verge, not as a regular vaJlumy but Hoping inwaial: by this means the area of it is higher on the fides than middle, and the external ground is lowered all around, to the foot of the callle, which is fleep like the fide of a ‘vallum. Upon this edge there has been a wall quite round : the foundations of it are to be difeerned alinotl every where; in fome places large parcels of it left, but not above ground. Now they call it the Callle croft. The river Medloc runs near it, but is no fecurity to it, as being not clofe enough: nor are its banks fceep hereabouts, though its channel is rock, as is the whole country near. This is a quarter of a mile from the prefent town of Manchefler. The Irwell river,- coming through the town, runs on the weft fide the callle, and there the Medloc joins it. I look upon Man- cheller to be no ancient town; and even the hundred is denominated from Saltford, the village on the other lide the bridge, therefore older: but Manchefler is a much better fituation, as higher; placed too be¬ tween two rivers, having rocky and precipicious banks, with a good profpeft: it is a very pleafant, large, populous, and thriving town ; new buildings I T E E B O E E A L E. -9 buildings added every day: the roads are mending about it, and the river is making navigable; which will ftill contribute to its profperity. The old church is very fpacious and handfome, and enlarged ftill with num¬ bers of large chapels and oratories; but the monuments, which were many, are deftroyed and obliterated; a prieft, of the name of Hunting¬ don, lies before the altar. It is a collegiate church, and the ftalls in the choir are of very good carved work in the old manner. This country is very woody, and affords a fine profpedf every where, bounded by high and diftant hills. A conflux of the many roads at this place gave origin to the town. Sa.Itford is a large town ; a broad and very ftrait ftreet leading to Warington, probably Roman: a very good bridge over the river. Ten yards weft from the caftle is a natural preci¬ pice, which the Romans difregarded, trufting to their walls, but more to their own valour. A cavity cut in the rock by the river, under the fouth-weft angle. The natural track of this road is north-eaft, but towards Manchefter it trends a little more northward; I fuppofe, with an intent to come to the bridge, where it met the road from Veratinum. I faw the altar at Holm boufe, lady Bland’s: it is i6 Roman inches broad, one front; a foot on the Tides j 28 inches high : it is now removed out of the garden into coverture. They call the caftle the Giant’s caftle. Probably there was a town at the river Medloc in Roman times: an annual fair is ftill kept there. The caftle ftands parallel to the road. The river Irke comes in here under the college-walls: the caftle-walls were pulled up to mend and build the churches and bridges. I find the Roman road went acrofs the church-yard originally, and fo by the common ftreet to the bridge over the Irke, called Scotland bridge : then it afeends the hill, and proceeds with its original diredlion north-eaft to Rochdale, which way the old Coccium was. Edward the elder by our monkifh authors is faid to have built a caftle here, which probably was by the church and college; and the church may be founded on its ruins: this drew the town that way; the meeting of the two rivers there, and the fteep rocks upon them, rendered it a convenient fituation for fuch a work. The college founded by Chetham, a tradefman, has a very good library, and good falary : here are about fifty boys maintained. Mr. Prefcot of Chefter has a gold Otho found here. I faw a Celt found in the moffes. CONDATE. We rode all the way upon the Roman road from Manchefter to this place: it is the common road throughout, except a little near Altringham : that market-town has caufed it to be left, by a common; but we recover it again at Bowden hill, whence we had the profpeft of it a long way before us, in a ftrait line: it leaves Altringham a little to the eaft, pafi'es weft of Rotherfton mere, clofe on the v^^eft of North Tabley houfe, and fo diredfly to Northwich, which therefore muft be of neceflity the Coiidate of Antoninus. The Britons called thefe wiches, or places of falt-works, Hellath, from heli^ falfugo : the laft fyllable feems to be in Co 7 iddte : then it will fignify the principal falt-work, cond, caput. Part of the road hither, by the Bollin river, they call Wafh-way, from its waterinefs; which ftiows the derivation of our country wadies. This town ftands in an angle made by the Weaver river and the Dane, both w'hich are palled VoL. II. I by 30 ITER B O R E A L E. by bridges, Ibmetimes overflow with great fury. South of the bridge, upon the high ground by the Cheflier road, is a great tumulus^ or keep, of Saxon work, called the Caftle. This is a pretty large town, but meanly built, depending intirely upon the fait trade : here are the flrongeft fprings of brine, and the wonderful mines or rocks of fait, 6o yards under ground, which they work like coal-mines: how far they extend, is not known. I doubt not but there are many more all over this country; thefe are found out by chance, not many years flnce: they carry it into Ireland, Wales, and other places; and boil it up afrefh with fea- water. It is a moft liberal gift of Nature, a compendious way of ma¬ king fait; thefe fprings being flronger than the ocean: the rock fait ilronger than they; for it is perteft fait, tranfparent like cryftal: it lies not in veins, or jirata, as other minerals, or metals; but a folid rock, of unknown dimenfions, which they hew away with fteeled pick- axes, leaving pillars and fpaces, as big as a cathedral. Poplar-trees are plentiful in this country : they all lean eaftward, as continually prefled by the w eft winds from the fea. The country from Northwich to Chefter is intirely fand, and very deep : a barren view once a foreft. They dig up the turf every where for fewel; which prevents for ever its being capable of cultivation, otherwife not impracticable: the oaks are all gone. Mid-way is the Chamber in the Foreft, as called, upon a very high hill of fandy ftone. Here they fay Edelfleda, the great Mercian princefs, built a city; I rather believe, a fortrefs, and that probably one of the Romans origi¬ nally, to guard this road. We can fcarce affirm any thing of the Ro¬ man way is vifible, except at firft fetting out from Northwich, and near Chefter, where it falls into the original Watling-ftreet, half a mile off the city, by the river fide: but there can be no manner of doubt but that a Roman way was drawn here, to that we rode on before: how it was done by that people, I cannot guefs \ for it was imprafficable to raife a bank; and it would be wholly vain in this fand, unlefs they dug it away to the bottom, which is impoflible: I fuppofe it was by ftones fet on both fides at proper diftances, for a direction only, which are fince carried away, or buried by the fands j for now and then we faw a ftone feeming to be milliary. There is a horfe-race, with a very good courfe; which Ihows the turf is well confolidated, where not fkimmed off for the purpofes aforefaid. When we draw near to Chefter, we fee on the left the Welfh mountains: on one, which is a very fteep precipice on all fides, ftands Beefton caftle: before us, they rife one above another, and leave the clouds below their fummits. Mr. Gale gives us feveral inftances of Condate^ and the like words, fignifying a place where is the union of fome rivers: and fuch is the fituation of Northwich, where the Dane and the Weaver meet at the town; and the Pever a little below it, by the falt-rock. At Tarvin, where the road paffes over a river approaching to Chefter, is Stanford, fo called from it. D E V A. Chester. This is a noble old city, the work of the victorious 20th Legion, the conquerors of thefe wefterii regions. It is manifeft at firft fight, that they regarded, in the plan of it, the known form of their camps : it is a parallelogram fet to the four quarters of the heavens ^ the longeft fide north and fouth: fuburbs are extended eaftward, and a new gate called I ' ’ ' ' ITER B O R E A L E. 31' called the bars, where the Watling-ftreet, and the road from Condate, enters: the Roman walls take in exa6fly the fpace of 10,000 foot, or two miles. The foil is fandy, upon rock of a red colour and fandy compofure, with fmall pebbles intermixed. The foil has been more or lefs fandy ever fince we left the Chiltern hills at Dunftable. Riding under the gate where the Watling-ftreet enters, I obferved TAB. LXV immediately two arches of Roman work. I was overjoyed at fight of fo noble an antiquity, which has never been mentioned. It was a fquare of twenty foot within; for fo far are they diftant from each other, and of fo much diameter: they are exaftlv of the fame manner as thofe at Lincoln j the ftones not quite fo large, nor fo good : the breadth is 24 foot. On each fide was a portal, of a lelTer arch, and lower, for foot- paflengers j for part of the arch is left, and people now alive remember them open quite through; though now both thefe, and part of the great arch, arc taken up by little paltry {hops: or, rather, the leffer ones are quite pulled down, and even the great ones are in the utmoft danger of falling; for the occupants of thofe places cut away part of the bottom of the femicircle to enlarge their fhops. The portals anfwered to the Rows (as they call them) lo remarkable in this city, being portico’s quite through on both fides the ftreets, undoubtedly continued in a manner from the Roman times. It is admirable that thefe vaft arches, made of ftones of fo large dimenfions, and laid without mortar, can ftand at all when their proper butment is deftroyed : that which regards the city has a key-ftone : in both, below the loweft ftone of the arch, the two next courfes down¬ ward proje 6 t a little inward, in nature of impofts ^ and over the crown of the arches runs a courfe of proje 6 ting ftones moulded a little, but coarfely : the ftones are artfully, though rudely cut j to which it is owing that they are not fallen, as depending wholly on their own principles, and the man¬ ner of their mafonry, or geometry. Here terminates the famous Watling- ftreet, whofe beginning in Dover valley I walked over in May laft. The road is here prel'erved, going by the river fide to Aldford. The ancient fubterraneous canals are perfeft ftill; their outlets into the river under the city-walls are vifible j and they fay that they are fo high, that a man may walk upright their whole length. Wherever they dig, they find fubterraneous vaults and arches, and all manner of antiquities; many of which were colle6led by the late Mr. Prefcot, prebend of the cathedral here, and now remain in the hands of his fon. The city is comraodioufly placed in an angle of the river, which wafties and protects two fides of it. As I faid, it is an oblong fquare, 600 paces one way, 400 the other; that is, 3000 feet by 2000. Two principal ftreets run its length at equal diftances from the walls and each other: one may be called Principium-, having the gates at each end; the other is ^intana : they are eroded in the middle by the via preetoriay where are the gates Decumana and Praetoria. Another principal ftreet runs on each fide it, equidiftant from it, and the walls of the ends: thefe may be called firigae. Other lefler ftreets, or hemijirigee-, fubdivide fome of the fquares made by the principals. Thus muft the original fcheme be underftood, when the military and civil citizens firft founded and inhabited the place. The little difference now is caufed by the cathe¬ dral and the caftle : the caftle, the feat of Hugh Lupus, count palatine, and his fucceflbrs, is built, for the moft part, beyond the limits of the Roman walls, in that angle next the flexure of the river; confifting of a great court, and keep, ftrongly walled, and fenced with a ditch : the TAB. LXVI. 32 ITER B O R E A L E. city-wa’l carried ilill round without it. To the north of the caftie is fome linall remnant of a nunnery. The meadow between the walls and the river here is called Rcod-eye, from a crofs there, the flump whereof remains; upon this they keep a horfe-race. The city-walls are carefully repaired by the corporation, and make an agreeable walk quite round: they are founded intirely on the rock. The churches have every where, as in other places, deformed the llreets, which are originally the melt noble and fpacious I have feen. The whole city has a defeent every way from the centre. The caftle is rendered flrong as the nature of the place will allow of: here the earls called their courts of parliament, and adminiftered all affairs of ffate and judicature with regality. Lait year, digging in the chapter-houfe, they found the bodies of fome of the old earls palatine, wrapped up in leather fewed; but v/iibin that, they were laid in wmolen, like what we call wadding: the bones are pretty perfefl, but the flefli is gone. They fliowed us one, thought to be Randuif Demefcbin, the 1 aft earl, laid in a ftone coffin j a place left for his head : he lies on the right hand of Hugh Lupus, the firft earl. Tliey have built a large handfome exchange over-againft the front of the cathedral, with pillars of one ftone. The city is not fet precifely eaft and weft, though pretty near it. The ancient Roman gate at the Watling-ftreet was larger than the reft, becaufe of the entrance of the Roman ways there from Condate^ Boniiim^ and the greateft part of the kingdom; likewife for readier paff'age of the foldiers upon occafion, moft requifite that way; two of the other gates being fenced by the river: therefore this extends in front to 80 foot. This city in Roman times mmift have appeared admirably beautiful, with fuch fpacious ftreets: the tradefmens Ihops and houfes I fuppofe then to have been next the piazza’s of the ftreets j the foldiers tenements backwards, with gardens into the fquares, as it is at prefent. The river, which once wafhed the city- walls, is now thrown off to fome confiderable diftance by falt-marfhes: a dam too is made acrofs it by the bridge, for the fake of the mill j and by other mifmanagements it grows worfe every day, fo that fhips can¬ not come up near the place; whence the only little trade they have ac¬ cruing from the palfage into Ireland, is in danger. 1 faw at Mr. Prefcot’s the Roman altar of Flavius Longus : it is very intire, and very prettily ornamented. On the top where the difeus uiually is, is cut the head of a Genius within a garland : on one fide is a Genius with a cornucopia on the other, a flower-pot with leaves of brank-uiTin. It was found under a houfe by eaft-gate. He has more fragments of antiquity ; Roman bricks, fquare for paving, a foot each fide ; fome marked LEG. XX. V. two inches and an eighth high; fome hollow bricks with a double cavity for hypocaufts. He has likewife a curious ftatue of the god Mithras with the Phrygian bonnet, and a torch in his hands, ftanding crofs-legged: it was found under a niche of the wail, between eaft-gate and the river. Some of the bricks are thus marked, LEG. XX. V. V. which demonftrates they mean^ the legio- vicefima valeria vidlrix. The altar has a fquare pedeftal of one ftone, which it flood on: the back of the altar is carved with drapery, and a feftoon. Along with it was found a little earthen pot like a lamp ; a brafs v.'inged Genius, fmall; two brafs Jibula's ; all in Mr. Prefcot’s poiieffion ; he has likewife a brafs camp-kettle, with two rings, 21 Ro¬ man inches high, found near here. The other infeription, which his father 66 . 2 ^ Sli FL TVS') DOMO SAMOS ATA V S i/ic o^/icr /i de /(■ The Hornau Altar d/j/ llcr‘{ NA'PreRot5,Cl>'Pitt'*f'*4 «- h(tj.\-ji,y. hoi(n(/(ihod/c /u/. HalltiatP. n" I I i I ir I '1 '' I ' Ii Ii i I! j JllJjiJ Thie heirh'pari. ' vT ' '♦ >.r’:'' =■ \ J. /<> ; ■'1 "v . : ^ :• ■ : -^ - vr.’ . • /. .t\ f i-: % ■/* I «1* ; :' [■>' , ^ •■j X'- / I. ■f; V r V: 1 I 1 T E E, B O R E A L E. 33 father had, of PRAESENGVNTA, is fent to Oxford. He has alfo a very large colledlion of coins, brafs, filver, and gold, mold found at Chefter. A golden' Britilh, bracelet weighing 19 guineas, found lately in Wales, was melted down by a goldfmith here. Walking beyond the river, I found the Roman way going to Boniiim: it anfwers precifely to the great ftreet of the city, which I call principia, and is extremely ftrait: it goes through Ecclefton, Eafton, &c. Examin¬ ing where it paiTed down by the bridge on the weft fide, I was led to vifit a rock hard by, over-againft the caftle: tliere I difcovered a Roman carving of a goddefs, in a tabernacle, with an altar : it was not in the leaft difficult to fee the‘traces of a Roman hand, through fo many years, rub- bing of cattle, and ill ufage. There is a feat hollowed out clofe by it, and which has taken away part of a pillar, fupporting the pediment. It is a figure of Pallas, with a Ihield on her left arm : a belt from her left fhoulder holds a fw^ord tied under her right arm, after the Roman mode; fhe has a fpear fupporting her right hand: her under garments reach down to her feet. The altar ftands againft one of the pillars, and has a little hole at top of it. I wonder it has efcaped ruin fo long, placed fo near a great city, and fo low that it is fubjeH to all manner of injuries. This city is of a moft charming fituation j the profpeH around it every way is auguft. The walls were repaired by queen Edelfleda. They talk of king Egbert’s palace by St. John’s. Between Eaftgate and the river the Roman wall is pretty perfeft for 100 yards together, made of fquarifh-cut ftones, the length inwards, with little mortar appearing on the outfide; I fuppofe they run it in along the infide liquid. This w^as an admirable contrivance for ftrength: as the wall of the gate woas but one ftone in thicknefs throughout ^ fo by this means the city-wall con- fifted of few ftones in thicknefs. Mr. Prefect fnowed us force urns, great and fmall, many fragments of paterae of fine red earth, found here j fome with embofied work of flowers, animals, &c. fome v/ith the potters’ marks at the bottom, particularly MACRINV and CARAIED OFF. likewife many horns of little deer and other animals found by the altar. The village beyond the bridge is called Henbury, denoting its antiquity. Many fragments, feemingly of pillars and capitals, fet for fitting-ftones before the doors about the city, particularly in Parfon's lane. To the eaft of the cloifters is the building called the Chapter-houfe, from the ufe it was put to j but I fuppofe it a maufolaum of the earls of Chefter; it is on the north fide of the choir j it is of an odd and an¬ cient kind of building : there is a vejiibulnm to it, of a very pretty model, which 1 have not feen clfewhere; the pillars are cabled, without capitals, fo that they refemble palm-trees. In the gateway between this and the maujolceum they Ihowed us a coffin of ftone, or rather vault, of the length of a man, and proper depth (about fix foot): at the head was cut a crols j in the bottom lay the fkeleton ; probably the firft abbot made by the earls : they guefs that to be Hugh Lupus’s remains, which are buried in the very middle of the place. There were found feven of thefe graves, corre- fpondent to the number of earls. Bifhop Ripley, who built the bodv of the church, lies under a brafs in St. Mary's chapel: behind the clock is a painting of him, vvuth Chrift, St. Peter, and other figures, and much writing in Latin verfe, but defaced. St. Werburg’s Ihrine, found refs of the cathedral, was an elegant ftruflure of ftone carved : little niches with gilt ftatues of faints, men and women of the Saxon nobles, their VoL. IL K • names ITER B O R E A L E. 34 names wrote upon each, fome ftill legible, all defaced, their heads broke off, 6cc. the biihop’s throne is built upon it. There has been an ancient monallery at St. John’s, much ruins of wdiich remain. The cloyfters have been built iince the maufolceum. They have a report that king Edgar’s palace was upon that rock, by the river fide, where the image of Pallas is cut; but I think erroneoufly: it feems to have been a Roman 'uilla and gardens of fome learned commander. There are but two chief ffreets of the city wanting, as plotted by the founders; on one ftands the cathedral: that anfwering it, on the oppofite fide of the city, at pielent is but a foot-path, and lane acrofs gardens, which have encroached upon it on both hdes. There are fome Roman bricks in the wall of the Friery, as obferved by Mr. Gale. In one quadrangle by the cloyffers is a wall with Gothic arches, very much pointed, like that at Peterburgh, engraven by xMr. Sparkes, V. p. 130. Edefburg was the name of the Chamber in the Foreft. At the great houfe over-againft the ihambies is a hypocauft of the Romans, made of bricks all marked with the twentieth legion. It is now the floor of the cellar. LEVERPOOL. I.caving this famous feat, and the antique monuments of the renowned twentieth legion, we direbfed our courfe northward through the Cher- fonefe, between the mouths of the Dee and the Merfey; a flat, fandy, clayey country, not much unlike the beft part of the Lincolnfliire levels. To the eafl of the old church of Bevington is added a fpacious choir, and lide-ailes. We ferried over the great bay to Leverpool. In the vifto upward, the huge mountain whereon flands Beefton caftle is very enter¬ taining: it appears, though at the diftance of above twenty miles, as a great rock emerging fi'om the water. The novelty of Leverpool forbad us to hope for antiquities : it is a large, populous, bufy town, placed upon the edge of the water, in a fandy foil, and open country, arifen from the commodioufnefs of its fituation, with a fpacious harbour. Quarry hill, a delf of ftone of the red fort, and fandy, but not a brown red 5 fo that in building it has a pleafant colour; and that fetched deep is lafting, and a good fort of ftone: the new church is built of it; a neat buildmg, by a good architect. I obferved in this quarry, that the workmen make for themfelves artificial fprings at pleafure; for, though the [Irata here are very clofe together, and of a confiderable breadth, yet there is a fmall dripping between fome of them, efpecially thofe not far from the ground: here they cut a little bafon, which is never empty. This confirms my former fentiments about fprings. Near the new church is a moft magnificent charity-fchool. Here was a gieat caftle, or tower, which they are pulling down; and a new church is building upon its ruins. The wet dock is a moft capacious bafon, with a broad ftreet round it: the cuftom-houfe, a very neat building, fronts the dock. This town feems to be as big as Manchefter; and they are building new ftreets every where. The procefs of the delf ware made here is very curious. There is a fcarcity of good water here. From this place I firft beheld the Irifli fea. We paid a vifit to lord Derby at his feat at Knowfley, who may be truly faid to be a perfon antiquce Jideiy grown old in wifdom: he has left the vanities of courts and cities for a retirement, which his lordfliip diverfifies and makes ftill more agreeable v, ith the greateft judgement. This ITER BOREAL E. 35 This is one of his feats: it ftands on very high ground with a delicate profpedl, and abounds with canals and hill-ponds: it has a park ten miles in circumference. The whole is newly rehtted and adorned by my lord, and rendered very delightful. There is a great range of new- building, with hue apartments full of admirable pidlures, of antique marbles, and good furniture. The pictures are by the moh: celebrated mafters, as M. Angelo, Caravagio, Veronefe, Luca Jordano; a hue ftag-hunting by Snyders, engraved by Sympfon; fea-pieces by Vandeveld ; many of Vandyke, Rubens, (one painted on paper, as Dr. Mead’s) and the ftory of Ulyffes and Achilles j the Triumph of Induftry, the original Iketch of which I have : many of Salvator Rofa, and two great drawings of his upon boards j Titian, Carlo Maratti, and an inhnity more. The bulloes are, young Getaj a colofs one of Fauftina; a leller one of the fame, with one brcaft naked, very beautiful; Caligula j Gallienus j Alba Terentia, Otho’s mother; one that feems to be Pompey when young, or one of his fons: a brafs head, faid to be Michael Angelo; a leli'er bull of Flora; a fine buff of Homer in Parian marble, of curious Greek work; another, a philofopher, of like work and materials; with feveral more. A flatue of Hercules, two foot and a half high; two fine ftatues of Venus riling from the fea, fomewhat lefs than life ; a little Ifatue of a Faunus ; one of Bacchus; a lelfer one of Ceres; another Venus with a dolphin, and a Mercury, both lefs than life. Among the portraits, that of the famous countefs of Richmond and Derby, foundrefs of St. John’s and Chrift’s colleges in Cambridge; a full-length picture of a man born near here, called the Child of Hale, 11 foot high. My lord has in his library a great collection of drawings, particularly the whole colleCfion of the late Cheron, after Raphael; one of Hans Holbein, Henry VII. Henry VIII. &c. the original of the painting at Whitehall. Near Knowdey are coal-pits. From the fummer-houfe on the top of the hill in the park may be feen fix counties in England, three in Wales; the Wrekin. The tower at Liverpool, by the water-fide, was built by Sir John Stanley, anceftor to my lord. Weft-Derby, near here, is the place whence the title of the earldom. The trees here univerfally bend very much to the ead, owing to the continual breezes from the Irifh fea. This country is obferved to have much rain all the year round, owing to the fame caufe; and were it not fo, it would be very barren, as confifting wholly of fand upon folid rock, as all this weftern country is. Ormlkirk is faid to be named from a church built by one Orme in former times : one of his name, ftill left, is wrote upon the font as church¬ warden. This belongs to lord Derby; and here is the burial-place of the family, a deep vault filled up to the very church-floor with coflins: fome old fragments of alabafter monuments of the family of Stanley; others of the Scarefbricks. The church confifts of two buildings at different times; and two fteeples, one a fpire, the other a large fquare tower; and both are crowded together in an unfeemly manner. From thence we travelled toward Prefton, over a boggy, flat and black level, called a Mofs. On the right, at a diftance, we faw Houghton caftle upon a high hill; before us, the vaft: Lancafliire mountains, on the tops cf which the clouds hung like fleeces; till we forded the famous Belifamay ITER B O R E A L E .36 Bdifama, now the Ribel 5 den de diis Syris. I fuppofe, Rhe bel^ the river Bel. Vide Sei- RIBLECHESTER. I went to view this old Ration ; it is prettily feated on a rifing knoll upon the river; at fome diftance all round inclofed with higher ground, clothed with wood and hedge-rows: beyond which the barren mountains, or Fells, as they generally call them here, from the Cimbric The foil hereabouts is gravel v^^ith clay and fand by fpots. The river Rible is very broad at this place, rapid and fonorous, running over tlie pebbles, and, what is much to be lamented, over innumerable Roman antiquities; for in this long tra£l of time it has eaten away a third part of the city. I traced out the old ground-plot, and where the wall and ditch went round it; it lay in length eaR and weR along the north fide of the river, upon its brink, 800 foot long, 500 broad: ori¬ ginally, I apprehend, two Rreets ran along its length, and three croRed tliem on its breadth. This place has been long famous for old monu¬ ments found therein ; and fome fragments Rill. remaining I had a fight of. At the door of the Red-lion ale-houfe I faw the bafe of a pillar, and a moR noble lhaft, feven foot long, handfomely turned; which was fdlied out of the river: it is undoubtedly Roman originally, though the bafe has, I guels, been ufed as the Rump of a later crofs, in which this country abounds ; there is a fcotia and two torus’s at the bottom, though not very elegantly formed; perhaps it was never finifhed: the whole piece is 2 \ foot high, 22 inches in diameter: the frujium of the column lay in the ale-houfe yai’d, where the weather, and other accidents, have obliterated an infcription confiRing of three or four lines, towards the top : it is 17 inches diameter at top. One corner of this houfe is a Ro¬ man partiti on-wall, built of pebbles and hard mortar, as ufual. This houfe now is by the brink of the river, leaving only a fcanty road between ; but within memory a great many houfes oppofite, and among them the chief inn of the town, were ivalhed away. Farther on, down the river, a great part of an orchard fell down laR year; and the apple- trees Rill grow in their own foil at bottom. Viewing the breach of the bank expofed thereby, I faw the joiRs and boards of a Roor of oak, four foot under the prefent furface, with many bits of Roman bricks, potfareds, and the like j and fuch floors are to be feen along the whole bank, v/iience moR antiquities are found in the river. The late mini- Rer of this place, Mr. Ogden, collecfed all the coins, intaglia’s, and other antiquities, found here in great quantities; but his widow, as far as I could learn, difpofed of them to Mr. Prefcot of CheRer: I was fhown the top of a great two-handled amphora, or wine-jar, taken out of the river, of whitifli clay: I faw another like fragment; and among antiquities he took up a very large piece of cor allium tubulatum, bigger than a man’s head; an admirable curiofity of nature. By fymmetry I find the whole channel of the river, at prefent, lies within the prccindls of the old city: the original channel on the other flde being fliled up with the city-walls, and rubbifh ; for it bends with a great elbow toward the city. The eafceni limit of the city, or that upward of the river, lies agaiiiR a brook there falling in ; and the two flreams playing againR that angle, have carried it away, and Rill threaten them. At the weR- ein end cf the city, or down the Rream, a whole road, and fomc houfes too. P J c^. ba s'D, ire a bforbed and great quantity of alliler, the remains of I T E li B O R E A L E. 37 of the wall, has been carried off for building: much remains in the ground, and on the edge of the ftream. Farther up the land, and all along the weft fide of the church-wall, the ditch is perfect, and the rampire where the wall ftood pretty high, and the foundation of the wail a little apparent. They tell me the afhler ftone ftill lies its whole length. They call this Anchor hill; and, when digging by the houfe that ftands upon part of it, they found anchors, and great quantities of iron pins, of all lizes, for fliips or barges; for they lay this river was navigable fo high formerly, at leaft for fmaller veflels. The north-weft angle of the city is manifeft, and where the northern wall turned round the north fide of the church: a little way down a lane at that angle, a great bank runs weft ward, made of ftone, like a Roman road. There is a lane goes down, north of the city, to the brook, called the Strand; which confirms their having fome fort of navigation here. At the end of this lane is the ftreet which is the Roman road, running diredtly northward up the fell, called Green gate: it paftes over Langridge, a great mountain fo named from it, fo through Rowland foreft: it appears green to the eye. In this ftreet, over-againft the Strand, is an old white houfe, where they fay Oliver Cromwell lay, when going to Prefton in puifuit of the Scots, after the battle of Marfton-moor. The eaftern wall over the brook ftood likewife on a fort of precipice. I faw a large coin of Domitian, of yellow brafs, very fair, found in the river, caf. domit. aug, germ. cos. xvi. cens. per pp. reverfe, Jupiter fitting in a curule chair, the hajia pura in his left, an eagle on his right hand, •uidiori j exergue S. C. another pedeftal of a pillar found in the river. Juft under the Red-lion a fubterraneous canal comes into the river, fo high that one may walk upright in it, paved at the bottom. Many urns have been found hereabouts, but all loft and difregarded fince Mr. Ogden died, who collected fuch things. They know the track of the Roman road all the way over the hills. In a garden by the Unicorn’s head a gold finger was found, and another brafs finger as large as a man’s j two intaglia’s of Mercury with wings on his feet, the caduceus^ &c. found near Anchor hill: much afhes and bones found about the city. Up the river, eight miles off, is Pendle hill, a vaft black mountain, which is the morning weather-glafs of the country people: upon it grows the cloud-berry plant. Digging in the church-yard, filver coins have been frequently turned up. The river hither is open and deep j but at Salef- bury, a mile higher, rocks begin: therefore it is likely this place was chofen by the Romans becaufe at the extent of navigation. Half of one longitudinal ftreet, and of two latitudinals, are confuraed. Hones and carriages frequently fall down the fteep from the ftreet, becaufe it is nar¬ row, and but fa6f:itious ground. Panftones, up the hill, by the Green-moor lane, or Roman road, is a place much talked of; but they know not for what. I fuppofe it is either fome Roman building, or a road eaftward, or fome terminus. They told me of an altar thereabouts with an infcription, axes, and the like, carved on it: it is on Duttonley, by Panftones. Haughton tower is within view; a great caftle upon a precipicious hill. Many are the infcriptions found here from time to time : Dr. Leigh has feen them all. Now they are removed, loft, or fpoiled: one great altar they told me was carried to Dunkin hall, the feat of lady Petre, with an infcription, a ram, and a knife j many taken away by the family of Warrens, jiviner lately at Salefl^ury hall. I faw the fragment of a VoL. II. L ftone. 38 1 T E E BO R E A L E. ftone, in the corner of a houfe by the mill, cut witli very fair large letters: under the next houfe is the frtiftum of a pillar, 20 inches dia¬ meter, made into a horfe-block; I faw another flat ftone at the town’s end, laid over a gutter, with a monumental moulding upon it. Above the town half a mile is a noble bridge of four very large arches, built lately by the country: over this I went to Salelbury j but all the infcriptions are carried away, probably to Mr. Warren’s other feat, near Stockport in Chelftire. I found a large ftone in the corner of the houfe, which has been a Roman monumental ftone, foolilhly placed there for the fake of the carving; there are three large figures upon it, fweetly performed, and good drapery, though half worn way by time j a man and woman holding hands, both half naked j fomewhat round- iih in the woman’s hand: at the end is Apollo refting on his harp, his head leaning on his hand, as melancholy for the lofs of a votary j for fuch we may guefs the deceafed, either a poet, phyfician, or mufician : probably there was more carving on thofe fides within the wall. This has been a very large feat, with a park. They told me there w^re fome carved ftones at Dinkley, another leat of Mr. Warren’s, a mile farther; but I found they were all carried elfewhere, fave two altars, both obliterated, but well cut; one ftood in a grafs-plot in the garden, covered over with mofs and weeds y another ufed in the houfe as a cheefe-prefs. This is a romantic place, hanging over the river purl¬ ing acrofs the rocky falls, and covered with wood. The late Mr. Warren was very careful of thefe learned remnants. They told me that Ribchefter was deftroyed by the Scots. Thefe are all the memoirs I could pick up in about five hours I ftaid there, ^ antiquum tenuerunt jiu- mina nornen. Ovid. Met. Dr. Leigh, in Lancajiery fays a Roman way goes from Manchefter to Ribchefter by ftrange ways towards Bury: he gives a cut of a ruby found here ^ on it a foldier with fpear and fliield. I take the two altars I faw at Salelbury to be thofe defcribed in Dr. Leigh’s Lancajier. At Langho, Ardulf king of Northumberland gained a vidtory, anno 798. LANCASTER. Between Prefton and this place we had the vaft hills that part Yorkfhire and Lancafhire, all the way on our right. This is all fandy country to within three miles of Lancafter; then rock begins: the other has rock under it, but red and fandy; this is white. Where the caftle and church ftand is a high and fteep hill, length eaft and weft: this was the Icoman ca/lrum. 1 found a great piece of the wall at the north-eaft, in the garden of Clement Townfend; and fo to Mr. Harrifon’s fummer- houfe, which ftands upon it: it is made of the white ftone of the coun¬ try, and very hard mortar, and ftill very thick, though the facing on both lides is peeled off for the fake of the fquared ftone, which they ufed in building. A year or two ago a great parcel of it was deftroyed wdth much labour. This reached quite to the bridge-lane, and hung over the ftreet at the head of the precipice in a dreadful manner: from the fummer-houfe it went round the verve of the clofe north of the church, and took in the whole circuit of the hill. The ditch on the outfide of it is now to be feen. I fuppofe it originally inclofed the whole top of the hill where the church and caftle ftand, which is fteep on all fides, and half inclofed by the river Luiie ; fo» that it was an excellent guard to this part of the fea-coaft, and commands a very great profpedl % ITER B O R E A L E. profpe6t both by fea and land. Here was this great convenience too in the iituation, that on the fouth fide of the caftle walls, under the tower, is a fpring. All the fpace of ground north of the church is full of foun¬ dations of ftone buildings, Roman, I believe; and much Rone has been taken up there. To the weft of the church is part of a partition wall left, of that time. This is a navigable river. The caftle built fince on this fpot has been very ftrong; it fuffered in the civil wars. The profpect hence takes in all the weftern fea, and fometimes reaches the ifle of Man. The Cumberland and Weftmorland hills are of fuch a nature as I never faw before; I took them for clouds at firll:, not only from their height, but figure j confifting not of long ridges, but pens, or fugar-loaves, fuddenly breaking off. Eaftward is Ingleborough, a very ftrange hill, having a flat place at top, like a table: they fay there are fome works upon it, and fome flones placed like a bower: Camden takes notice of it as rifing gradually eaftward. Upon fome of thefe hills it was that George Fox afcended to converfe with the Holy Ghoft, as he pre¬ tended j which he revealed to Nailor, and fo began the fedt of the Quakers, about fixty years ago. There is a friery in the town, and the church of it was ftanding within memory. When they pulled down the Roman wall, they found many great toads alive in the thicknefs of it, and where in all appearance there could be no paffage for them from without. The town of Lan- eafter lies upon the eaftern declivity, before the caftle. CONCANGIOS. Water-crook. Through a very hard road, but not an unpleafant country, we entered Weftmorland. The river Can is very rapid, and full of cataradfs, as running chiefly over the rock, and having a great defcent. It is ftrange that the falmon coming up thefe rivers from the fea to lay their fpawn, when obftrudted by thefe places, leap over them with a furprizing force j and there they lie in wait to catch them with nets laid on the upper edge. A mile below Kendal this river takes a circling courfe, and makes a fort of peninfula, called Water-crook, where I found the old city: its name fignifies the valley upon the water Can. It is a fine large valley, and very pleafant. Either with a cut, or by nature, the river ran quite round the city. Mr. Tho. Guy is the poffeiTor of it. As foon as I came into the yard, I faw a large altar placed by fome fteps: I believe it dedicate to Bacchus, becaufe of grapes and feftoons on it: it is above three foot high: the feftoons are on three fides ; the back is plain. All the lioufe and out- houfes are built of Roman ftone, dug up in the old city. The top of an altar is put into a corner of that ftable where the altar ftands. At the end of the houfe is a large ftatue or bas relief of Cupid : the gavel end fell down fome time ago, and knocked off his head and arms; but it is well cut. In the garden, at the end of an out-houfe, is a very long infcription on a ftone. He Ihowed me a little portable altar, but yf Roman inches high: the dedicatory infcription is obliterated by ufing it as a whet-ftone; but it is prettily adorned, has two fcrolls and the difcus at top. Innumerable antiquities have been found here; great arches and ruins of buildings: they never plough but fomewhat is found. The father of Mr. Guy faved many, which are fince loft: this gentleman found many brafs, filver, and gold coins here j but all are difperfed, except a large brafa Fauftina: he fhowed me an intaglia of Mercury fct in gold for a ring; another wdth three faces to a head; the foremoft. Mars with a helmet on ; 40 ITER B O R E A L E. on ; a woman’s face on each fide ; a pafce of a light onyx colour, with a head : a fepulchral lamp. He told me of a large brafs urn with bones in it found here; it had two ears to it, and was ufed forty years ago, in the family, as a kettle, and is now at his fifter’s, Mrs. Herring, at Wall near Hexam. I'he town of Kendal is very large, lying under a great hill to the weft j the river to the eaft. Upon the rife of the hill is a place called Caftle- low hill, which has been a caftie raifed in Saxon times, fortified with a ditch where not naturally fteep, and a keep or artificial mount; a forry way of encampment: the keep is narrow at top, and cannot contain above forty people ; they are much too high to offend an enemy, and have no ground to defend. Above this are great fears, or mountains, of a hard kind of ftone like porphyry, that will yield to no tool: they break it up in fmall fhivers, for building, by the force of a heavy gaveloc and ftedge-ham- mer. I law feveral pretty fprings running out of little hollows of the rock, efpecially toward the upper part; and moft of the Jirata there¬ abouts drip continually ; the workmen told me, that thofe cracks where the fprings are go a great length into the mountain; and that the jirata all round the hill lie deciining with the fide of the hill; that fome jirata are loft and porous, which lets the water ftrain through them; whilft others by their hardnefs flop it, and turn it all into the cracks and fif- fures; that thefe fprings run very fparingly in dry weather: this fhows that they are made only of the rain and dews falling upon the hill, and collected into thefe channels, which being generally perpetual, and in fufficient quantity one time with another, render the fprings fo. There is a fpring on the top of Penigent hill, the higheft in thefe parts. In this country vaft ftones like the grey weathers in Wiltfhire, lie upon the furface, and by the fides of the hills, which are no part of the quarry, being of a different ftone. On the other fide of the town eaftward, and over the river, is Kendal caftie; a large ftone building on a folitary apex, but not extraordinary high ; it is fenced with a wall and ditch: they report that queen Catharine Parr was born here. This town has been built moftly with pent-houfes and galleries over them all along the ftreets, fomewhat like Chefter. The carts or carriages of this coun¬ try are fmall machines, with two wheels each, made of three pieces of timber, faftened to a crofs axle-tree, which turns with the wheels: the cart is laid upon thefe wheels pro tempore, kept from Hipping off tlie axle-tree by two pins underneath : they are drawn by one horfe. ^ They fay thefe carriages, of a light burthen and with one horfe, anfwer better in this ftony country than heavier, which are fhook to pieces prefentiy : hence Nature makes the horfes of this country fmall in bulk. Here is an anchorite’s houfe with a very fine fpring; near was a chapel of St. Mary, Abbot’s hall, and fome other ruins of religious places. The church is a handfome and very large ftrudlure, confifting of five ailes: a good organ: feveral ancient chapels in it, with the tombs of the founders ; one of Roos. The parifhes of this country are generally of great extent, having feveral chapels of eafe. This was, I believe, the county-town before Appleby, as rifing immediately after the deftrudtion of the Roman city. In the church is a monument of a judge, who died at the Affizes here in queen Elizabeth’s time. * Covinus Cimbricus, ficut hodie utuntur. The ITER B O R E A‘L E. 41 - ^he city of Ccncangics is much better fituate than Kendal in feveral refpedls ; becaufe good land for a confiderable way quite round it, as far as the valley reaches: the river, which may well be called fpum'fiis^ in- compafies it like a horfe-lhoe : it is deeper, broader, and fmoother, here than any where elfe: it is indeed a place incomparably well chofen for a fmall city: the ground is fufficiently high, even in floods ; but floods render it an ifland, for it is low ground before the entrance, but not marfhy. Acrofs the entrance there are plain marks of a ditch north of the houfoj and Mr. Guy told me there was a wall all along, an apparent rampire on the infide of it j that his father dug up vafi quantities of Hone there: he fliov^ed me a place in the city, where a hypocaufl; was found, all arched with Roman brick, and paved v/ith fquare bricks; that they covered it up again without demolifliing it. I faw a brals Antoninus, found here; and a flone, fomewhat like the capital of a fmall pillar, hexangular. Beyond the low ground which lies before the entrance of the city, is a Roman iumiihis. Upon a flope of high ground, and in a pafture behind it, is another very large hill, partly natural, and partly artificial, by cutting away the roots of it, and ren¬ dering it more ffeep, as it appeared to m.e : there is an afh-tree planted on it: when it was ploughed, they difcovered ft ones with mortar on them. I conjedfure there was a building upon it j probably an outguard, or lodge, for the foldiers that ftood upon the watch : for here was placed the raimerus vigilum in the Notitia ; and this place takes in a larger view than the city, as being higher. 1 he city contains about 14 acres of ground, or more: it confifts of two clofes, one of twelve acres, another of four j but the fortified part took not in intirely the tweUe acres : the ditch goes along the partition-fence vifibly enough; the remainder was fub- urbs to the caftle, which was 500 foot one way, 600 another. The infcription I fpoke of at the end of the barn has not yet been defcribed. Thus Mr. Gale read it. Publius Mlius Publii Jilius Sergio BaJJo Decurioni legionis vicefance valerias ViBricis vixit annos et privatus libertis et herm miles e?niritus legionis fextee viBricis fecerunt. Si quis fepulchro aliim mortuum intulerit mulBam ferat ffco Domincrum ncf rorum^ &c. A great woollen manufadiory at Kendal, efpecially of fuch fluffs as are proper for hangings. Winander meer, near here, is ten miles long, remarkable for a fifh called char^ which they pot, and fend all over the kingdom. This country is exceedingly obnoxious to rain, . and Tome of the hill-tops on one ftde or other are perpetually coveted with clouds : I imagine the vaft; folidity of the. ftone that compofed them attradts the clouds big with water at fome confiderable diftance, and then the winds break and dafh them into rain. This is another furtheiance of hills being fupplied with fountains. The city of Concangios is placed on, the higheft plot of the Cherfonefe : the four acres weftward are more meadow-like, but far from low. A great ridge of hills runs north and fouth-eaftward of this place, called Hag-fell, of a fine downy nature, and good riding on the fouthern point of it. About a mile and half off the city was the cajlriim exploratorum^ or watch-tower: it is a mere tip of very high ground, like a narrow tongue, and very fteep, efpecially fide v/ays : it is called Caftle-fteed : it is fixty foot broad, 120 long: the fides being thus fteep needed no ditch ; but on the fouth end are two ditches, on the north three: I fuppofe it VoL. IT. M was 42 ITER BOREAL E. was walled about: it is of the Common diff of the country} and in one place the ditch has been Cut through the rock. At the bottom of this hill is a large fpring, which immediately falls into a cavity of the earth again, and fo I fuppofe rifes lower in another place. From hence is a fine profped to the mouths of the rivers Can and Lune, and all over this coaft. The Weftmorland hills raife themfelves into a new and more romantic appearance than before, and the place well anfwered the purpofe of an efpial. About a mile north of Kendal is a cave in the rock near a wood, called Hells-fell Nab, or the Fairy-hole: they talk of organs, pillars, flitches of bacon, and the like matters here, as at Poole’s Hole in Derby- lliire. S H A P. On the fouth fide of the town of Shap, fix miles fouth of Penrith, we faw the beginning of a great Celtic avenue, on a green common. This is juft beyond the horrid and rocky fells, where a good country begins. This avenue is feventy foot broad, compofed of very large ftones, fet at equal intervals: it feems to be clofed at this end, which is on an eminence, and near a long flattifti barrow, with ftone works upon it: hence it proceeds northward to the town, which intercepts the conti¬ nuation of it, and was the occafion of its ruin j for many of the ftones are put under the foundations of houfes and walls, being pufhed by machines they call a betty^ or blown up with gunpowder. Though its journey be northward, yet it makes a very large curve, or arc of a circle, as thofe at Abury, and paffes over a brook too. A fpring like- wife arifes in it, near the Greyhound inn. By the brook is a little round facellum^ compofed of twelve ftones, but lefter ones, fet by one great ftone belonging to the fide of the avenue: the interval of the ftones is thirty-five foot, half the breadth of the avenue: the ftones, no doubt, did all ftand upright, becaufe three or four ftill do j but they were not much higher then, than now as fallen, becaufe of their figure, which is thick and fliort: they are very large, and prodigioufly hard, being nothing elfe but a congeries of cryftals of very large fizeS, of a flakey nature. Houfes and fields lie acrofs the track of this avenue, and fome of the houfes lie in the inclofure: it afcends the hill, croft'es the common road to Penrith, and fo goes into the corn-fields on the other fide of the way weft ward, where fome ftones are left ftanding; one particularly re¬ markable, called Guggleby ftone. The people fay thefe were fet up by enchantment: and the better fort of folks, as abfurdly affirm, they are made by art. I doubt not but they are gathered fomewhere off the furface, among the fells, and that here was a great temple of the old Britons, fuch as that at Abury, which it refembles very much, as far as I can judge at prefent j for the rainy weather, which in this country is almoft perpetual, hindered me from making at this time a thorough difquifition into it. The ground it runs over confifts of gentle rifings and fallings, but in general declines toward the weft : it is here, and for a great way further north, eaft and weft, a very fine downy turf, and pleafant hills j or at leaft they feemed fo after the rugged and barren views and roads we had juft paffed: but the country under this turf is a lime-ftone, quite different from the ftones of the avenue. In our journey hither the country is far worfe than the peaks of Derbyftiire, and nothing to entertain the eye but the numerous and rare catara 61 :s j whole rivers, and the whole continuance of them, being nothing elfe j the water >1 v" . f I,'- Getl Chaw Wl- ■ ■'Tj K' *■ fv.. '•/ '! iV ' M. ' . ‘H'i ■ . .r i I vr ■ ^ ■' ■ 13 ■ > ■ i - '. ’i C- I ■ r - ' ■ '■& '. ’•.••;r ' j". p rii; ■ I ‘ ! •«* ■ ■ •i f.' I nea?" CAoi^/c/uld in t/ie n^ajf to Sdnuincklnny/i Vv.-. •'■'• • ^ . ,r *■< .,' ' ' • '■ *' -' • \ 'ii • !/ /J I ■' -i Q c ' *■ :\ \ / f/i/ /i. Harru /ctjfp ■ ( ; V . IE. (jcLtic Moimments in Germaiiv DoctiLsiiao Vlx-o JoIuIveyXl.ei' Amico |jliiriumm xn.itnniicto Tabulam Jiirf ^'LiibeutiCsunp //.■ ■i’;' ur. ■ - ^9». ■ ■ r V’r > ■. - tS-'j ■■ 4 ^ ^ ^. “^■''. ■■■"' ' •'- ■ '■•■ ■ ‘ . ■- ..,~ •V * jif. ■ « '■/ <.' ■ ' I ■ . < ; I 1 ♦ I I r r i; f:\ '.k I i r/ 7/ roman ru/at ^/e/iAcrrai-an r7o?v at tn c/it teat o/ ZJ^ami^ ^ufZet -lJ0' 7 ■■ "r I ■.M ft # t ■ I ■j- v ). '} i’-k I I f \ ) ) \ ® ■ . ^>4 \ - r ' - A - 'V 'T v ? • «* - . ; y .•'■ . r .4?-.'^ ^> , y' f .llp-.’^ s-'"* ' ■ • r.-i; /■ I : '.■; IVir, ' -. ’ .# :, f , 'V.-: ■ ‘j r'-fi VI t' 75-2, ‘^ Roman IVlonumeiits toinui nt Elenborouoii 171 t/u: /uni/e Humpliry Seiilioule^/y!' l)i the Honfe 11 ci//. ITER BOREAL E. 49 yet the valleys every where look very green, and produce great crops, in years v/hen they have a reafonable ihare of dry weather: but that, I believe, is not very frequent; for the hills v/ill fcarce fufTer any-clouds to pafs over from any quarter, but dalh them in pieces; fo that the fre¬ quency of fprings and cafcades, and the rapidity and force of the brooks and rivers, is wonderful. COCKERMOUTH. At this place they manufacfure cotton yarn for candlewicks. It owes its name to the river Cocker, here emptying itfelf into the Derwent. The caftle belonging to the dukes of Somerfet ftands in the angle of union, and very pleafantly: the valley is rich ground: it was a llately building, and ftrong in the old manner; but now they daily pull it down for the fake of its materials. They report that the earth of the vallum on the outfide the walls was fetched from Ireland, whence no venomous creature can pafs over it. A fine vault here, which they call the Chapel. OLENACVM. Elenborough. Going toward this Roman fiation, we palTed the river Derwent, and over a moor not far from the fea, where are ccal-mines. Elenborough is a little village on the river Elen, the daughter of a great Roman city, which has produced a copious and inftrudtive harvefi: of antiquities; as may be feen in Mr. Camden, p. 826. I quote Dr. Gibfon’s firlf edition; for his fecond does difgrace this moft excellent author, by mixing the notes with his mafterly text. Here that great genius of old Britain, with Sir Robert Cotton, was entertained by the anceilor of the prefent pofieflbr, Humphrey Senhoufe, efq; who inherits a true love for thefe ftudies. His feat is on the other fide the river: the walls of the houfe are incrufted over, as we may fay, with infcriptions, carvings, and bas reliefs, taken TAB. froni the ruins of the Roman city. The firft cohort of the Dalmatians, the firfi: cohort of the Spaniards, and the firfi; cohort of the Beetafians, here kept garrifon; as appears by the infcriptions. That noble altar now at Sir James Lowther’s, at Whitehaven, belongs^TAB.LX to this place ; the grandeft yet feen in Britain ; it is five foot and a half LXXL high: on the back, VOLANT! VIVAS import a facred wifh for the profperity of his friend Volantius, hoping to fee him again. Mr. Gale has obferved feveral of this fort in Gruter. In the wall of Mr. Senhoufe’s dwelling is a curiofity feldom to be met with; a very large ftone, whereon a man on horfeback is defigned to be carved, but left unfinifhed: it is a pleafure to fee only the iketch of a Roman artifi:; and we are not to fufpedl thefe works here are fo barbarous as our authors make them, for want of proper fkill in draw- ing. There is another relievo of a lady facrificing, which by the compart- TAB. ment of the infcription at bottom, though worn out, feems to have^^^^^" been fixed upon a temple by the founders. A moft ftately altar is placed in the middle of the garden, with a fun-dial on the dtfcus. Some are fomewhat more fecureiy fet up within the porch : many given away; as, one to the biftiop of the Ifle of Man; another, to Wm. Kirkby elq; at Afhlec in Kirkby, Lancafiiire : two altars lately found are placed upon a farm-houfe, which is now commonly known by the name of VoL. n. O Volantium ITER BOREAL E. 50 Volantium^, falfely fixed upon this ftation: this is by the fea-fide in Mr. Senhoufe’s demefnes. It is much to be lamented that thefe fino remains fhould now be expofed to the weather.-f* The caftriim is juft 400 foot fquare, two ditches about it, and three entrances : it had likewife a ftone wall on the high 'vallum. On the north fide of this cajirum lay the city OLENACVM, of a great extent, as is plain from the ruins of it, but dug up all about. The family of the Senhoufes, and the Eagleshelds whole heirefs they married, have been continually digging here j and the ruins are ftill inexhauftible : the dwelling-houfe and all the out-houfes are built from it, as from a quarry: hundreds of cart-loads of hewn ftone now lie there. One may trace many fquare plots of the houfes, and of the ftreets, paved with broad flag-ftones, that are vifibly worn with ufe. All the walls that divide the paftures are made of thefe fquared ftones; I faw innumerable of them upon the fpot, with mouldings on them of va¬ rious forts, gutter-ftones, architraves, cornices, &c. The faces of the fquared ftones are generally not perfectly fmoothed, but have the mark of the axe upon them ; and I fee many fuch fort of mafonry in the old gates of London. Coins innumerable have been found formerly, now but feldom j urns, and other antiquities, which it is endlefs to particu- larife. Mr. Senhoufe told me there is a paved military way, befides the ftreets of the city, going hence northward along the fea-coaft; another, to Pap- caftle by Cockermouth. Moft of the infcriptions are found in the city and precindfs; bits of altars, and fragments. In the caftle are many vaults ftill left. The altar at Sir James Lowtlier’s was found in the north-weft angle of the caftle, on the 'vallum. Here is a moft magnificent profpedf of the Scotch coaft of Galway, and of the great fea between the two kingdoms. In the evening, when the fun ftines, and it is clear vreather, the lights and fhadows of thofe lofty hills are extremely entertaining. The Ide of Man appears perfedfly. The river Elen did not empty itfelf, formerly, diredtly into the ocean, as at prefent, but went northward under the cliff, till it came under the caitle : the cld channel of it is vifible: the fea has eaten away a large quantity of marfli and high ground between it and the caftle. To this elbow of land, which made the mouth of the river, is the name OLE¬ NACVM owing. They talk likev/ife of anchors being found there¬ abouts : many Roman hand-mill ftones found at Elenborough. I ima¬ gine this river is one of the Alaunas. Toward Cockermouth the weft- ern roots of the Cumbrian hillS; being very fteep, exhibit a moft curious fpedlacle 3 the declining fun fhining on them from over the Iriffi fea j fo t In one of the carved monuments Venus Rands in an apartment of a building, feeining to be combing her hair; perhaps from a bath. However, at Rome was a flatue of Venus holding a comb, not an impreper utenRl for the goddefs of beauty, not a little of which confifls in the hair. Thus fays Claudian, ThejTalico r:feos neSlrhat pLii'im crines. So Juno, when dreffing hetfelf to recover the love of her hulhand, is reprefented by the father of t'e poets combing her hair; II depexos nitide nodo jubjhi£ia capillos. But the reafon of the flatue before mentioned was’thus : tliere was a cutaneous diflemper among the Roman women, injurious to tlieir Irair ; for they were forced to cut it all off: therefore they dedicated a flatue to Fenus redliaij^cra^ upon which their hair came again as flne as ever. This flory is told in Suidas. ITER BOREAL E. 51 fo that we need not travel to the Alps for magnificent views of this nature. PAPCASTLE. A mile off Cockermouth, on the north fide of the river, lies this Roman ftation. The river water is very clear, according to its name, notv\ ithftanding the floods here, owing to its running through rocky ground. The Roman cafirum lies upon the top of the hill, above the village. I foon traced out its whole circumference, though the inha¬ bitants had not the leafl notion of where it ftood, fuppofing it to be lower down. I faw a bit of the Roman wall, which they wonder at, becaufe it ftrikes fire when ffruck upon with a pick-axe, by reafon of the hardnefs of the mortar : it lies by the road-fide going to Wigton; and there the ditch is plainly vifible, though half filled up with the rubbifli of the wall. The whole town, and perhaps Cockermouth caftle and town, are built out of itj likewife the walls of all the paflures and corn-fields adjoining. Free-ftone cut is very common, which they fay mufl: have been fetched a good way off, becaufe there is none fuch in the neighbourhood; and a great deal of afliler is ftill left in the ground. The field upon the top of the hill, the highefl: part of the cafirum^ is called the Boroughs. A man told me he found a hand mill-flone about the bulk of his hat, which he admired for its prettinefs: he found a Roman coin too of Claudius, and others; but they are lofl. Several other people told me they found coins upon the fide of the hill; and the children pick them up after a fliower of rain. Mr. Senhoufe fhowed me a filver Geta, pent, reverfe, princeps juventutis^ among others found here. The famous font, now at Bridekirk, was taken up at this place, in the pafture fouth of the fouth-eaft angle of the city, by the lane called Moor-went. In the fame place lately they found a fubterraneous vault, floored with free-ftone, of very large dimenfions ; the top of it made with the fame fort of ftone, all brought a diftance off. The name of Boroughs includes both clofes where the old city, or rather cajirum, flood; for they find ftones and flates with iron pins in them, coins, and all other m.atters of antiquity, upon the whole fpot below the cajlrum., toward the water fide. This was a beautiful and well-chofen place, a fouth-weft fide of a hill, a moft noble river running under it, and a pretty good country about it, as one may judge by the churches; for that I find generally a good criterion of the goodnefs of a country, as Mr. Senhoufe obferyed, who accompanied me hither. On the fide of the hill are many pretty fprings: at one of them we drank a bottle of wine, to the memory of the founders; then poured fome of the red juice into the fountain-head, to the Nymph of the place. A perfon told us he had dug up, in the Boroughs, the foundation of a wall where the ftones were laid llanting fide by fide, and liquid mortar poured upon them, as was Often the Roman method; likewife feveral floors made of cement. The kind of flates dug up here, are brought too a good way off. Mr. Sen¬ houfe fays he can trace the remains of the Roman road betw^een this place and Elen borough in many places. This certainly Vv^as a town thoroughly peopled ; and pei haps its name was Derveiitio, becaufe ftand- ing upon this river Derwent. Fitz-houfe is on the fouth fide of the river. Mr. Gilpin of Whitehaven has feen many Roman coins found at Papeaftie, efpecially of Adrian. WHITEHAVEN. 5^2 ITER BOREAL E. W H I T E - H A V E N. This is a new fea-port town, Handing in a little bay, fprung up from its conveniency for the coal-mines hard by. There are many falt-works upon this coaft. Rock-famphire grows here. This weftern country, left beyond the monftrous hills, is fand and clay. Skidhaw is in view from hence, and with the reft deceives one exceedingly in its diftance^ for one of thefe hills, which we ihould be apt to compute a mile oft, is feven j the eye judging according to the aiagle it makes from the horizon in fuch objefts as it has been accuftonied to. Here is but a fmall rivulet, which is a detriment to the haven, for want of fcowering. They tranfport great quantities of coals to Ireland and other places. We walked two miles in thefe coal-works, the liratum of pure coal being all the way about ten foot thick, declining gradually, about one foot in five, till we got 300 foot below the furface j a rock of ftone over head all along. Their method of digging is generally to run the grooves in a ftrait line, others going out on both fides at right angles ; fo that fquare pillars of coal are left to fupport the incumbent rock: hence fome roads are made along tlie defcent, the others parallel to its declivity. There are trappings now and then, but not very frequent, nor great; and thofe are both along the declivity, and fideways. Their methods of conveying the coal to the fhafts where they are drawn up, and of conveying air from one palfage to the other, to prevent damps and ftagnations, and of drawing up the water from one height to another, are very dextrous, and worth feeing. At laft the famous fire-engine difcharges the water, which is a notable piece of machinery working itfeif intirely : it creates a ‘vacuum by firft rarifying the air with hot fteam, then condenfes it fuddenly by cold water; whence a pifton is drawn up and down alter¬ nately, at one end of a beam: this a6tuates a pump at the other end, which, let down into the works, draws the water out: it makes about 34 ftrokes in a minute; fo that it empties 140 hogftieads in an hour, with moderate working. With this quantity of declivity it goes to¬ ward the fea, and below its level at prefent; and fo, no doubt, proceeds under the fea as far as the outward ftiell of the globe reaches. From this it is moft indifputable, that the convex thereof is formed, into a fpiral figure of layers of different materials; and it muft be owing to the firft rotation of the earth upon its own axis. Flere is likewife a great copperas vrork, which is effected by laying a great quantity of fulphurous and ferruginous earth into a great yard, wailed about. This ftuff is partly got out of the coal-mines, and out of the adjacent hills; in long tra6l of time the rains falling here, and paffing through this earth, drain into a receptacle; into that they put all the old iron they can get, which it eats up prefently: this is boiled to a proper degree of evaporation, then is let into leaden cifterns, where it cryftaliifes againlt the fides of the veffels in pure copperas: it ftioots into hgures of regular furfaces, fome triangular, others liexangular, &c. M O R B I V M, Morefov, a mile north of Whitehaven. Here is a Roman cajlrum^ notorious enough, at fome diftance, by its elevation above the plain of the field it ftands in. This is one of the caftles built at convenient intervals along this coaft, to guard againft the depredations of the Scots by fea: it lies ITER BOREAL E. 53 lies upon a piece of high ground in a valley, bounded by higher all around, except feaward. Parton haven, where they are now making a new pier, is on one fide j and a large creek, or little bay, on the other. The wall that flood on the edge of the vallum was juft 400 foot fquare, as that at Elenborough. There is a great dry wall of ftones now Hands in its place, the ftones taken originally from it; they are all fquared : the ftones of all the paftures, fences, and houfes round about, and the ftones of Mr. Brome’s houfe, and the churches, are moft evidently taken thence j being of the Roman cut, as the inhabitants take notice, and wonder at it: they own the flone is of a different grit from that of the place. The fite of the Roman caftle has been ploughed up. Many coins and urns found about the place j ftones in great quantities ftill within the place: I faw one fquarifh, of a very large bulk. A reddifh fort or flate to cover houfes is dug here; they do not know of any fuch nearer than Scotland : fuch was the indefatigable labour of the Romans. There is no ditch about this caftle; but the vallum is pretty high quite round. The church Hands on the eaH fide of it: in the church-yard is an afli-tree, that bends eaH- ward fifty foot from the Hem, by the force of the weHerly winds con¬ tinually preffing on it. The new front of the hall is of an excellent model; I doubt not but it is from fome of the admirable Inigo Jones’s defigns : the infide is of the fame relifh. The IHe of Man is very clearly difcerned from this place; and the Scotch coaH quite to the mull of Galway : it is about thirty miles off. In fome paHures a little eaH of the place I faw a flat Hone fet upright by the road-fide, and converted into a Hile: it was a monument of fome young Roman, but pretty much worn: he is robed with a toga^ and holds a fcroll in his right hand, to denote his being a fcholar, per¬ haps a pleader, a difciple of the famous Papinian. I could not fee to the bottom of it, where probably is an infcription. The man that rents the ground fays it was found in the ditch, under the hedge, a little lower down. At the next Hile of the fame paHure is another monumental Hone of an old man ; for fuch feems to be the head cut in the tympanum above. The infcription upon it is fcarce legible’: it was poorly cut at firH, and has been thus long expofed with the face upwards; and becaufe it is fomewhat broader than the wall, and was apt to fall down, the man knocked off all one fide of it: he has been courted with money and fair words to part with it, but in vain. Thus, as well as I can judge, the infcription Hiould be read: Dis Manibus facrum Mertio Maximo^ militum phra 6 iariorum equejiorit Jlipendiorum decern, vixit triginta quinque annos. There are evident figns of a Roman road from Morbium to PapcaHle all the way, efpecially over the moor. The foil all along to the weH of the Cumbrian hills, between them and the fea, is fandy, with rock underneath, fometimes lime-Hone, fometimes of the red Hone. Mor¬ bium, in the Notitia, is faid to be the Hation of the numerus cataphraSia- riorum-, and the infcription above proves it. There were fix Romaff caHles againH this weHern Hiore in Cumber¬ land J a cohort in each took up half a legion to garrifon: they are ten miles diHant from each other; Mawborough, ten miles from Boulnefs; Elenborough; Morbium', another at Egremont; Maglove, Ravenglafs. VoL. II. P I 54 ITER BOREAL E. I fuppofe they were made by Stilico, who is celebrated for it in Clan* dian. Me quoque vicinis pereuntem gentibus inquity Munivit Stilico totam cum Scotus Hiemem Movit & infejlo fpumavit remige Thetis. Illius effeSlum curis, ne bella timerem Scotica; nec FiBum tremeres ne littore toto Profpicerem dubiis venientem Saxona ventis. He was general to Theodofius. i CASTRVM EXPLORATORY M. Now called Old Carlille; a mile off Wigton, upon an eminence: the faireft fhow of foundations I ever yet faw: one might almoft draw an intire plan of it, and of every dwelling. The cajlrum was double- ditched, 500 foot from fouth-eall to north-weft, 400 the other way: the wall has been dug up to the foundations j but the hollow where it ftood on the edge of the rampart appears quite round, and the track of all the ftreets and buildings obvious. A ftreet of forty foot wide quite round the infide of the wall. From the north-eaft entrance two Roman roads depart; one full north, as far as we could fee, paved with coggles 3 on each fide of it are the fquare plots of houfes: the other road marches north-eaft, paved in like manner j it paftes over two great moors, and there it is very apparent: we travelled along it to Carlifle. I faw a group of barrows near it. Many antiquities have been found at Old Carlifte, and infcriptions j one on the ftde of a houfe a mile off Wigton, as Mr. Gilpin told me: others are at Ilkirk. There are feveral fprings all round the bottom of the hill, and quar¬ ries } and an extenfive profpeft, efpecially toward the fea-ftiore. Some coal-works in our journey from Cockermouth hither. I doubt not but the Romans had knowledge of this fubterraneous treafure, though they negledled it, becaufe there was wood enough in their time: but Solinus mentions it among the wonders of Britain, that they burnt ghbos faxeos into allies. I faw a ftlver Antoninus Pius found herej reverfe, reBor orbis. Latius arBoi prceconia perfequar amnis. Addam urbis tacito fubterlaveris alveo Moeniaque antiquis te profpeBantia muris. Addam prafidiis dubiarum condita rerum. Ausonius. LVGVVALVM. Carlisle. At the gates are guard-houfes of ftone, built by Cromwell from the demoliftied cathedral j and in the middle of the market-place, a fort with four baftions, roofed like a houfe, with holes for the gunners to flioot out at with fmall arms. At the fouth-eaft end of the city is a citadel built by Henry VIII. as is plain from its conformity to Deal, Walmer, &c. In levelling the ground of the lifti-market they found many coins, which we faw in Mr. Goodman’s hands: he has an altar found in the river Irthing, by the Pi£l:s wall: alfo in Mr. Stanwix’s fummer-houfe wall is an infcription of the fixth legion, and a pretty altar, but the infcription worn out. Fragments of Roman fquared ftones appear in every quarter of the city, and feveral fquare wells in the ftreets. ITER BOREAL E. 55 of Roman workmanfhip. A great quantity of Roman coin dug up under St. Cuthbert’s church. Probably the city Rood chiefly on that fpot where the caftle now is, as the highefl; ground, but did not reach fo far eaflward as the prefent city. One may walk about the walls of this citv, as at Chefter: there was a double ditch round it. There are many hollowed ftones found hereabouts, much like the marble mortars of apothecaries, with a notch in them. I take them to be the hand-mills of the Roman foldiers, wherein they ground their corn with a ffone, and fometimes perhaps became their urns; making their chief inftrument in fuftentation of life, their infeparable compa¬ nion in death. This is a very pleafant and ’ fertile country, rendered more lightly to us by pafling fo long through the mountainous Ifoney tradls of Lan- calhire, Weftmorland, and Cumberland. About this country we obferve many mud-wall houfes, thatched with flat fods or halfocks fhaved off the moors ; which I fuppofe the old Britifli cuftom con¬ tinued. Here too they ufe the little carts, as about Kendal. We faw, in Mr. Gilpin’s hands, a filver Otho, found here; reverfe, SECVRITAS R. P. alfo a middle brafs of C. Marius i reverfe, VIC¬ TORIA CIMBRICA : together with many more, which his father colledled. In the cathedral are many remains of the tombs of bilhops, I fuppofe, between the pillars of the choir j every one of which was a little chapel, but now pulled in pieces. A large brafs of bilhop Bell is left in the choir. The bottom of the fteeple, and the weft end of what remains of the ftrudlure, is of William Rufus’s time : the choir is later. The road to Bramton is manifeftly Roman, by reafon of its ftraitnefs; and in two places, as I walked up the firft hill, I faw the original, made of a bed of ftone : it goes precifely fouth-eaft ; and looking towards Car- lifle, I faw it paffed through the citadel, and along a narrow ftreet j fo through the cathedral to the caftle-gate; all in a ftrait line. To the caftle-gate the road over the river Eden came: that from the wall on the weft came to the fame point; into which falls that from caflrum exploratorum. I’he V A L L V M. The military virtue of the Romans outlived the fpirit of their learning, or excelled it, feeing there is no author that defervedly celebrates this ftupendous work of theirs in Britain: they juft mention it: no coins ftruck upon it. I am not afraid to fet it in competition with the wall of China, which neceffarily occurs to our thoughts upon this occafion : that we readily acknowledge to be a ftrudfure of greater bulk and length, which we efteem the leaft part of the wonder in ours: the Romans intended no more, by their walls around their forts and caftles than to prevent a hidden furprife: their ftrength lay in a living arm and head: in the open field they never refufed fighting, without much regard to oppofite numbers; the additional fecurity of a little wall was all they alked, againft emergencies. Therefore the beauty and the contrivance of this wall confifted moftly in the admirable difpofition of the garrifons upon it, at fuch proper Rations, diftance, ftrength and method, that even in times of profound peace, as well as war, a few hands were fufficient to defend it agamft a moft bold and daring people, redundant in numbers, ftrong and hardy in body, fierce in manners, as were the old Nortli Britons, who refufed fubjedlion and a polite life. The 56 ITER B O R E A L E. The Romans, tired out with the untra6lable difpofition of thefe people, whofe country they judged not worth while wholly to conquer, refolved to quit their ftrengths northward, and content themfelves with the defirable part of Britain, and, by one of the greateil works they ever did, feclude the Caledonians, and immortalife their own name by an inexhauftible fund of monuments, for pofterity to admire. Thefe people, who had the true fpirit of military difcipline, did not lie idle under arms, but were ever at work, even whilft they lay pro cajtris \ making and re¬ pairing public roads; fetting up milliary pillars; building and repair¬ ing caftles, cities, temples, and palaces; erefting altars, infcriptions j llriking medals, and the like works, which we here find in fuch fur- prifing quantities. If we confider the great nilmbers of their works nov/ to be feen, more that have been loft and deftroyed, or put into new buildings of our own, moft that are ftill left for future times to rake out of their veftiges, we may entertain a true notion of their genius, which fubdued the fierceft and moft populous nations in the world. Worthily may we propofe them for examples of virtue and public fpirit. This is no little ufe and advantage of difquifitions of this fort. Alliances, treaties, and negotiations, are of fmall value to a nation always in arms, and ready to meet an injurious enemy j who ftrengthen, fortify, and enrich themfelves at home, protedf the people, and make the expences of government fit eafy upon them; encourage induftry, frugality, temperance, virtue; a few plain eafy laws; adminifter juftice with expedition, and without expence; but efpecially encourage a due fenfe of religion and morality: and how much eafier and more effeftually that is to be done now, than poffibly could be done by the Romans, will appear notorious, when we confider, that under the Chriftian dif- penfation we make a much ftronger imprelhon on the hearts and minds of people, than before: the full certainty, which all reafonable con- fciences muft now have, of a future retribution and account to be made before an omnifcient judge, lays an infinitely greater reftraint on our adlions, than poffibly can be had from the terror of rods and axes. The Roman wall is called by the people Fights moalU with a guttural pronunciation, which we of the fouth cannot imitate; and which the Romans called Fi 5 li ; but not from any fancied painting of their bodies, though it gave a handle to it. At Stanwick, which hence has its name, juft over-againft Carlifle beyond the river, I faw the ditch very plain : the blackfmith there, told me he had taken up many of the ftones of the foundation of the wall: it paffes the river over-againft Carlifle caftle. At Stanwick was an arched gate through the wall: Mr. Goodman fliowed us a cornelian intaglia found there, of Jupiter fitting. I followed the wall to Taraby, where, a little beyond, it makes an angle, going more fouth-eaft; fo to Draw-dikes, which was a fort, about loo foot fquare: it is on the edge of the meadows, and moift in fituation. Here I found an infcription upon the houfe-wall. In building the wall, I obferved evidently, the intent of the pro¬ jectors was to conduct it, all along, upon the northern edge of the high ground, as near as might be. All about Carlifle, this moft noble monu¬ ment of Roman power and policy is pulled up; firft, perhaps, by William Rufus, when he built the caftle ; then for the cathedral: and I fuppofe all the church walls of the city, and houfes of it, and the villages near it, are ITER BOREAL E. 57 are of the pillage; hence moft of the churches along the wall are fet upon it, for the convenience of having (tone near at hand, ready cut. The farmers and inhabitants are daily taking away the finall remains. The track of the ditch on the north fide ot the wall is vifible enough all the way, though fometimes corn grows in it. The line where the wall flood, is generally a foot-path. The valley between the end of the wall at Stan wick, and the caflle of Carlifle, is not above 300 yards broad, and is guarded too by the flream of the river Cauda. Weftward, on the fouth fide of the river Eden, it went toward Drumburgh, and ended at Boulnefs. Why the Romans carried it fo far, on the fouth fide the bav, was becaufe of its being a flat fliore, where an enemy might land in boats. It goes up the hill at Newton, from Carlifle; and fo marches in a flrait line up the next hill, to Beaumont, one of the old forts. All this way it is turned into a flreet: the ridge of the wall is the foundation of it, as a pavement; the ditch pretty much filled up by rubbifh. Mr. Goodman fays, he remembers two forts near Carlifle, now demolifhed, and ploughed over; one on the north fide the river ; the other on the fouth. I cannot fuppofe the ftone work of the wall went acrofs the meadow ; rather a wood work with towers, which made up the communication between the two ends of the wall^ over the river. The fort on the north fide of the river was on the high plat of ground, between the road up to Stanwick, and the wall. At the place where the ditch ends over the river, has been fome little fortification work; and thereabouts is a pretty little fpring, faced with Rone, and having a ftone bafon. Hitherto the wall was carried ; becaufe diredlly oppofite to the union of the Cauda and Eden rivers, running clofe under the bank ; and diredlly oppofite to the weftern fteep of Carlifle caflle, which was the Roman cajirum, but fomewhat larger than this caflle of William Rufus : perhaps it took in moft of the prefent city. In a tower of the walls of Carlifle caflle, on the outfide, between it and the Irifh gate, I faw a Roman carving of a boar, which was the cognifance of the legion here in garrifon, and that built it. We vifited Scaleby caflle, Mr. Gilpin’s feat, about half a mile from the wally and built of its flones. This was a flrong place with a cir¬ cular mote, well befet with wood, which is not very common here¬ abouts. In the garden we copied many Roman altars : they fhowed us two Roman fhoes, found in the bog hereabouts. The church too of this place was built out of the wall. Mr. Gilpin fays, in taking up the foundation of the wall at a boggy place, they found a frame of oak tim¬ ber underneath, very firm. From hence, over a moft difmal boggy moor, an uncultivated defert, we travelled to Netherby. We pafled by a Roman fort upon the river Leven, where antiquities have been found. They tell us, that, for fixty miles further up northward, there is fcarce a houfe or tree to be feen, all the way. This was the march, or bound, between the two kingdoms. The land might be drained and cultivated, and how much a greater argument of national prudence would it be to have it done, by thofe we tranfport to America ! The foundations of the Roman cajirum at Netherby appear round the houfe, or prefent caftle : it flood on an eminence near the river. Many antiquities are here dug up every day. The foundations of houfes, and the flreets, are vifible. They pretend, moft of the fpace between the 'callum and ditch is vaulted. A little lower down has been fome monu- VoL. II. mental 58 ITER BO REAL E. mental edifice, or burial-place, v/here they find many urns and fepul- cliral antiquities. In the garden here, are fome altars ; and a carving of a female head, in a lion’s Ikin ; I fuppofe, Omphale-, and an admirable carving of a Genius facrificing. We faw a gold Nero found here : a cornelian wfith a woman’s head, flowing hair. This valley by tlie river fide is very good land, with fome fliadow of Nature’s beautiful face left; but every where elfe about us, is the mofl: melancholy dreary view I ever beheld, and as the back-door of creation; here and there a caftellate houfe by the river, whither at night the cattle are all driven for fecurity from the borderers; as for the houfes of the cottagers, they are mean beyond imagination j made of mud, and thatched with turf, without windows, only one flory j the people almofl: naked. We returned through Longton, a market-town, whofe flreets are wholly compofed of fuch kind of ftrudture: the piles of turf for firing are generally as large and as handfome as the houfes. ^anta Calydonios attollet gloria campos Cum tibi lo 7 ig(Evus referet trucis incola terrcB Hic Juetus dare jura parens: hoc cefpite turmas A^ari: nitidas fpeculas, caftellaque longe Afpicis .? llle dedit, cinxitque hrec mcenia fojfa Belligeris hic dona deis, hccc tela dicavit Cernis adhuc titulos: hunc ipfe vacantibus armis Induit: hunc regi rapuit thoraca Britanno. Statius V. Sylvar. After this excurfion northward, we fet out from Carlifle eaftward, withinfide of the Roman vallum. Warwick, thought a Roman ffation, upon the river Eden, pleafantly feated in a little woody valley. We left the Roman road going flrait from the citadel of Carlifle to Petrianis. To the right a little is Corby caftle, where are many monuments of antiquity preferved; as likewife at Caercaroc near it. Upon the river Gelt, a little before we came to Bramton, we went up the river to fee a Roman infcription, cut upon the natural rockj a moll odd and melancholy place: the river runs through a canal of rock all the way. Upon the great ridge of fells coming hither from Crofs fell by Penrith, are many circles of ftones, and circular banks of earth, the temples of the Druids of the patriarchal mode. There are likewife fquare works fet round with fliones, which were their places of judicature. Beyond Bramton, juft over the town, is a keep ditched about, called the Mount, on the top of a hill. Hence to Thirlwal caftle we rode upon the foundation of the wall, the river Irthing accompanying us. We vifited Knaworth caftle. Near here is a great houfe of the Howard family, built of ftone, and caftellated ; among many family pictures, the great earl of Arundel’s, the reviver of learned curiofity among us ^ a library once well ftored with books and manufcripts: here is the famous Glalfonbury-abbey book, or rather fcreen, for it is big enough; an account of the faints buried in that place. In the garden are many altars and infcriptions: I copied all thofe tolerably fair: with much regret I faw thefe noble monuments quite negledted and expofed; fome cut in half to make gate-pofts. A fine park here, and much old timber. The country hereabouts good land and pleafant. Above the houfe upon a hill, a circular work double trenched; the outer ditch broadeft. About Thirl wall we rode along the fide of I'aQwall: here was a gate through the wall, for the great Roman road called ?\dadan-way. The name Thirlwal ITER B O R E A L E. 59 Thirlwal retains a memory of the gate here ; foramen : we ufe it now to drill, and noftrill. All the fences of the inclofures, the houfes, church, and Thirlwal caftle, built out of the ravage of the wall. At the caftle was a head of Roman carved work, which they have put into the blind wa]i of a little ale-houfe. V O R E D A. Caer Voran. A little upon the fouth fide of the wall was a great Roman city and caftle. We traverfed the ftately ruins: it ftood on a piece of high ground, about 400 foot fquare; had a wall and ditch ; veftiges of houfes and buildings all over, within and without. We obferved the Madan-way coming over the fells from the fouth, where it paffes by a work, or labyrinth, called Julian’s bower. We faw too the Roman road paffing eaftward along the wall. The country hereabouts is a wild moory bog j and the wall itfelf climbs all along a crag, and is fet upon the fouthern edge of it; the fteepnefs of the cliff northvv^ard performing the part of a fofs. Near Haltwiftle is Baliol caftle, corruptly Belifter caftle, faid to be founded by a king of Scotland. I fuppofe this wall, built by Severus, is generally fet upon the fame track as Hadrian’s wall or vallum of earth was; for, no doubt, they then chofe the moft proper ground : but there is a vallum and ditch all the way accompanying the wall, and on the fouth fide of it; and likewife ftudioufty chufing the fouthern declivity of rifing ground. I obferve too the vallum is always to the north. It is furprifmg, that people lliould fancy this to be Hadrian’s vallum: it might poftiby be Hadrian’s work, but muft be called the line of contravallation; for, in my judgement, the true intent both of Hadrian’s vallum and Severus’s wall was, in effecf, to make a camp extending acrofs the kingdom ; confequently was for¬ tified both ways, north and fouth : at prefent the wall was the north fide of it; that called Hadrian’s work, the fouth fide of it: hence we may well fuppofe all the ground of this long camp, comprehended between the wall and the fouthern rampire, was the property of the foldiery that guarded the wall. I remarked, that where the v/all paftes over a little rivulet, the foun¬ dation of it is laid with broad, flat ftones, I'quare, having intervals be¬ tween, fufficiently large for the paftage of the water. At Haltwiftle I got an altar of, DEO SOLI INVICTO. We took the wall again at Chefter on the Wall, about two miles eaft from Caer voran. Wall town, lying between the Roman way paved with broad ftones, which led us over the low boggy ground up to the caftle. It is a fquare of 400 foot clofe to the wail, which makes one fide of it; 350 foot lefs than thofe on the eaft and weft. Great marks of buildings all over it, ^ O and even fide-walls of houfes left. At the fouth entrance were two round towers within fide, and the cheeks of the gates. Laft year one of the iron hinges taken away. All around this caftle were houfes built. An altar lies in the fields a little v/ay off, but quite obliterated. The Pidfs wall continues ftill on the fouthern verge of the cliif. Eaft¬ ward hence we faw, here and there, the veftiges of the fquare towers, built on the infide of the Wail, and clofe to it : that called Hadrian’s ditch runs ftill on the fouthern verge of the hill, with a large vallum on the north. We came again upon the Roman road, which goes on the infide of the wall, but not near it, chufing the heft ground and fhorteft cut all the way through this boggy wafte country. Upon it is the compafs of an inn, 6o I T E 11 BOREA I. E. inn, or little ftation for lodging of travellers or foldiers. This road con^ tinues very ftrait and bold to Little Chefter, the next ftation, on a brook, and fomewhat better land. A mile before v^^e came to it, on a hill Hands a great Hone, and a little one, called the Mare and Foal. A little weft of that, over-againft Chefter, is a barrow which Mr. Warburton dug through, and found bits of urns, allies, and other like marks of its being Britilli. A little farther weftward is a large group of Britifli barrows. Before we come to Little Chefter is a moft noble column, or mile- ftone, fet upon the road : it is of a large bulk and height, with an in- fcription, but only not quite defaced. Mr. Gale thought he could read TVNG. upon it: it is the fineft ftone of this fort I have feen, and would have informed us who made the road. LITTLE CHESTER. TAB. LXXV. We faw the cajlrim here, of a fquare figure, hanging on a precipice over a little river on the fouth fide of the Roman road, and at fome diftance from the Wall; it had been walled about, as others: great ^oejligta of buildings, altars, carved ftones and antiquities innumerable, have been found here, but now difperfed and gone. We faw the mouths of vaults with great ftones lying over them. The fences of the paftures are made of the ftones of the caftle-wall. The man who lives here fhowed us a few fragments of Roman work j a pine-apple, which had. been a pinacle on the top of a circular tholus ; a piece of an infcription within a civic garland, finely cut j a brick, with LEG. VI. V. He has found many coins; but his children threw them away. In a corner of a field below, by the fide of the brook, and as the military way turns, up the hill, is another fuch milliary ftone, but no infcription legible. The moory country hereabouts has coal under it. Upon the tops of the hills are feveral cairns, or fepulchral heaps of ftones, made by the old Britons. A little eaftward of Great Chefter, where the ditch ends, at the bot¬ tom of a cliff, we faw the foundation of the Wall, which the country people are digging up for building: we meafured the true breadth of it, juft feven Roman feet. HOUSESTEEDS. TAB. ftation we vifited, about two miles from the former, and by LXXVI. the Wall, is defervedly called Houfefteeds, from the vefligia of the houfes therein, which are as eafy to be feen and diftinguifhed as if ruined but yefterday. Approaching the farmer’s houfe there, I faw a mill or two, i. e. the recipient ftones of the hand-mills which the Roman foldiers ufed to grind their corn with j likewife fome tops of altars: over the door of the houfe, a large carved ftone, but defaced. Going a little further, in a corner of a dry wall is a large ftone that has been curioufly cut, but now broken and much injured : three figures in it, in high relievo j two with facrificing cups in their hands : I believe it has belonged to fome temple, and means the Ge?iii of three cities : it is in my learned friend Mr. Horf- ley’s 20th table, but poorly reprefented : they feem to ftand before fteps. Near it, in the wall, is the bottom part of a very large altar, or pedeftal of 70. r? 4 I CBJJ^ TIOT^AI^^llo^en ha.nc (p/jeVa/0/Pic^ccu in. Sccrtod a. ^erdt VcctHco. IComiti P GTi:i\o\~ocdiesi^^eidisMagnitudiiieiif^tuf^ujya/^^^i-fmlcr ^Anticf nUatijfaiitoritm mTTT.IIIllll'Iillllll MM , i| | |i M I| | |l!I M i y^:^ji^jipn ] li W f|| l^ l|| U || ’TTn ) ipm (#D 'J-p - 5 ^ JI-EC 5 St i^'OLxxnl MPCAETiTo ha^kiato ^GfJOFP -.W^PE IMP^CAESAR'T ^AEUO I ILE C2'VI 'Vicis.- JE ' jp PEEM-F-M' BCJDCSri > ITER BOREAL E. 6i of a pillar, a yard fquare: near that a long carved ftone, fomewhat like the fhaft of our later crofles. Above the houfe, upon the Pidts wall is an altar j the legend gone. As for fragments of pillars, or rollers, as they call them, they lie fcat- tered all over the place. A large part of a Doric capital lies by the door, confifting of two thori^ or fwelled mouldings in architedlonic language. But when we were led lower down into the meadow, we were fur- prifed with the augufi: fcene of Romano-Britifli antiquities, in the moft negledted condition : a dozen moft beautiful and large altars j as many fine bajjo relie^vdSi nearly as big as the life, all tumbled in a wet meadow by a wall fide, or one on the top of another, to make up the wall of the clofe : the bajfo relievo fome with their heads down the hill; par¬ ticularly an admirable image of Vidfory, both arms knocked off: one large foldier, a fepulchral ftone, with his fhort fword hanging at his right fide, the man told us, was condemned to make a pig-trough on; but fome gentlemen, full timely, with a fmall fum, for the prefent re¬ prieved him: many foldiers with heads broke off; mutilated by the middle; three ladies fitting clofe together, with globes in their hands ; their heads all gone. Mr. Gale and I laboured hard at the infcriptions, and made out what we could of them under all difadvantages. Along the fame v/all, as we walked on further, we found more altars and carved ftones of various forts: but at length the farmer carried us up to a knoll in the middle of the meadow called Chapel-fteed, where undoubtedly was the Roman temple: there we faw three or four moft beautiful altars j and a little further, under another wall, a pretty fepulchral carving of an old foldier’s upper part in a niche. With great regret we left the place, deferving to be accounted the Tadmor of Britain. The infcriptions being moftly of the captains of the firft cohort of the Tungrians, ftiows they were chiefly ftationed here; and then they had piety enough generally to erect fuch an altar, when they took pofleflion of their poll. We pafled through Newborough. Juft before the church, on the middle of the ftreet, ftands an altar; but the legend vaniflied. I am informed, that where the Roman wall pafles the north Tyne, it is by a wonderful bridge of great art, made with very large ftones linked to- together with iron cramps, faftened with molten lead. We do not wonder at the great quantity of antiquities here to be feen, when all the workmen of the Romans were generally got into Britain : as is evident from the Panegyrift to Maximian, fub finetn. DevotiJJima civitas Heduoru?n ex hac Britannicae facultate vidloriae plu¬ rimos quibus ilice provincia redundabant^ accepit artijices., et nu?2c extrudliojie veterum do} 7 iorum, et refedlione operum publicorum et templojuwi injiauratiojie rejurgit. Two remarks are naturally inferred from this teftimony. i. How fond the Romans were of this ifland; v/hence the cities, caftles, roads, temples, altars, fculptures, and in general the whole face of the country here, vaftly exceeded that of the continent. 2. When I returned home from this journey, and compared my drawings of the antiquities here exhibited, taken from the things themfelves, with thofe that have been publilhed before or fmce, by Mr. Alexander Gordon, or Mr. Horfley; it grieved me that, for want of a tolerable fkill in defign, they have given VoL. IT R us 62 ITER BOREAL E. ns fuch poor and wretched piftures of thefe elegant antiquities; fo that the reader may not wonder when he views them both together: and indeed it gives foreigners a mean idea cf the Roman works in our iiland ; but very injurioully. I have therefore caufed a good many of thefe to be en¬ graven, to fhow the juft difference. At Chefters an admirably carved ftone was dug up lately, very large: the tenant of the farm caufed it to be planed and turned into a grave- ftone for himfelf j and it is now laid over him at the pariiii church. H E X A M. Hexham has a fine appearance every way; ftands on a hill in a pleafant woody vale by the river Tyne; once a bifnop’s fee: the church dedicate to St. Andrew by the great Wilfred, who was the occafion of bringing my native country of Mercia to embrace chriftianity: he founded the priory of St. Leonard’s, between Stamford and Uffington, the firft of the kingdom of Mercia : part of the church of his building remains, though turned into a barn: he built St. Peter’s church in Stamford, the firft church there. By Mr. Gale’s perfuafion I wrote the whole pri 7 nordia of Stamford, which I have by me. At Tickencote, hard by, is the moft venerable church antiquity extant, the intire oratory of prince Peada, who founded Peterborough abbey. But return we to Hexam. The cathedral is a large, lofty ftrudlure; but the body or weft end, and the two towers, are intirely demoliflied : it was collegiate: a great building, called the College. Between it and the church are cloifters, now a garden. In the choir two knightly monuments of ftone crofs- legged ; by the arms on their ftiields, Vernon and Umfrevile; they either went a warfare into the Holy Land, or vowed it; a tomb of one of the Northumbrian kings; tv/o oratories over fepultures unknown : a tomb of a woman with a veil over her eyes. Here has been much old-fafliioned painting, upon wainfcot and ftucco, of bifhops, faints, kings and queens j but, to the lofs of hiftory, defaced. This town was undoubtedly. Roman. We judged the cajhum was where the caftellated building now ftands, eaft of the market-place j which is the brow of a hill, and has a good profpe6f. The market-place, which is a fquare, lies between this and the cathedral. On the fite of the cathedral once flood a Roman temple. Digging for a foundation of a buttrefs to be built on the weft fide of the fteeple, they opened a vault, which defcends under the church to a fubterraneous oratory, like that under the cupola of St. Peter’s at Rome, called lunina apojiolorum. Here I fuppofe were kept the reliques of faints. This place is built out of the ruins of the temple. Over the inward entrance to the vault is laid flat a fine Roman infcription j the report of which led us down thither, though the palfage to it was as bad as that of Poole’s hole, Derbyfhire. We found it a noble large ftone of the em¬ perors Pertinax and Aurelius: we could not tranfcribe the whole, becaufe part of it is ftill within the wall. Over the next door lower dovv^n, a large ftone is fet perpendicular, and half of it cut away, in nature of an arch: the mouldings likewife chopped off; the whole fo defaced, that nothing to any purpofe could be made out of it, all the words being imperfedf. Upon the walls of the crypt we faw many Roman fragments of mouldings, and carved work, with bits of fluted and cabled pilafters. In ITER B O R E A L E. 63 In fearching about the oratory we found a very fine altar almoft intire, laid fideways into the very foundation. We dug away the earth and bones underneath, and difcovered thereby a new Legatus Augujli ^ Cal¬ purnius ConceJJmius j and a new troop of horfe in Britain, of which he was the captain, the equites Ccefareani Corionototarum. The ground-plot of this town is much like that of Cafter in Lincoln- Ihire; four ftreets going diagonally from the angles of the market-place. Some filver and other Roman coins were found not long fince near the church. This church is a very venerable and noble Saxon ftrudiure, and may ferve for a fpecimen of the manner of raifing thofe fabrics at that time of day. The workmen were but lately then brought from Rome, by the great Benedidl bifhop of Weremouth, who may truly be called the Arundel of that time: he was a nobleman of Northumberland, minifler to king Ofwy: he travelled to Rome twice, fome fay five times ; and brought home a fine colledlion of books, of which the vene¬ rable Bede made fo good ufe: he alfo brought hither architects and artifi¬ cers in building, carving, painting on glals, and the like; fo injurious are the notions of fome modern antiquaries, who think we had no ftone buildings before the Norman kings. Our Wilfred was likewifc a great genius : he travelled firft to Rome in Benedict’s 1 etinue : he v/as a great promoter of building cathedi als and religious houfes: befides this of Hexam, he rebuilt that of York, before raifed by Paulinus : he built a cathedral in the old Roman city of Cam- bodiinum-t Almondbury, in YorkOiire; he built Rippon cathedral: he had a great hand in founding the cathedrals of Peterborough, Ely, Litchfield, Leicefter, and Chichefler. He died in a good old age, 12 0 (S. anno Dom. 709, in his little monaftery at Oundle, Northamptonfliire: the room Rill remains, and the church in ruins, but later than his time. The Corionototarum, in the infcription, is probably the Coriolopocarium in anonymus Ranjejinas as Mr. Gale conjeCtures : and I add, probably it was the neighbouring Corbridge. The Roman caftle was fituate near the prefent Corbridge weftward, and on the northern banks of the river : it is called Corchefler. They tell us with fome fort of wonder, that it is the richeft and beft hereabouts for ploughing ; they difcern not that it is owing to the animal falts left in a place that had been long inhabited. Corbridge is built out of its ruins, which are fcattered about there in every ho ufe. Before the doors we faw many mills, pieces of fliafts of pillars, capitals, bafes, many pieces of baffo relievo, and carvings: a fine large piClure of Victory, holding a great parma^ which belonged to the horfe : two carvings of lions tearing bulls j their heads knocked off: feveral bits of infcriptions. The foot of the crofs in the market-place is an intire Roman altar, of a large fize ; the infcription worn out: on one fide, the head of a goat; a pitcher on the other. In the outer wall of the chancel is a fragment of the fourth cohort of the fecond legion. In the church-yard is the remarkable altar, in Greek charaCfer, to the Tyrian Hercules: another im- perfeCl one fet up for a grave-ftone. In Mr. Tod’s houfe a fragment of a mofl: noble infcription of the emperor M. Aurelius, cut in very large and handfome letters: the date of the tribunicia potejias loft. I have endeavoured to do juftice to thefe elegant fculptures; whereas they are generally by others fo very ill done, as to be difgraceful both to Romans, and to Britons, and to anti¬ quity in general. Over 64 ITER B O R E A L E. Over the door of a houfe, is a poor carving of a Northumbrian king, with a fceptre in his hand, of the fame ftyle as their coins. There is a hne bridge here over the river. From hence we travelled all along upon the Roman road, on the northern banks of the Tyne, to New- caifle. We faw Prudhoe caftle on the other fide of the river, {landing on an eminence ; and a green mount, keep or tumulus, by the church of Ryton. In the choir upon the ground lies the fepulchral monument of the founder, probably a lion at his feet , in his hands a fquare piece like a book, with an eagle upon it. At Newburn, as we paffed, I faw a (lone over a Rable-door, next to the fign of the boat j a tablet of the Roman falliion, anfated, cut in, but the infcription worn out, as being expofed to the weather over the river fide. The Roman wall leaves the common road about a mile eail of New¬ burn, and pafTes northward to recover the northern edge of the high ground j the counter-guard ditch, called Hadrian’s, accompanying it pari pqfj'u. I faw fome more carved ftones at Newburn, not worth reciting. We leave Benwell on our right hand, a Roman ilation. The road two or three miles weft of Newcaftle is very broad and ftrait, and enters the weft gate diredlly. At Eaft Denton, three miles weft of Newcaftle, is an infcription, in a ftable-wall, of the eighth cohort of the fecond legion. NEWCASTLE. This is a very large and populous town. The Pidls wall ran along by the north fide of the road from Corbridge hither, upon a northern declivity all the way, and in a ftrait line, on the north fide of New¬ caftle. The prefent caftle was built where the Roman cajirum was, and the Roman bridge: that and the walls of the town, the churches, and oldeft houfes, are raifed from the plunder of the Roman wall, which ought to have been preferved as the nobleft monument in Europe: it feems to have gone acrofs the prefent town, from the weft gate to Pan- don gate j and lately, about the meeting-houfe, they dug up foundations of it: near Pandon gate was found a feal-ring, now in Mr. Warburton’s polTeffion. One of the church fteeples in this town is of a very ingenious model, the original of one near London bridge. The bridge here is very long, has houfes on it: the arches and piers are rather larger than thofe of London bridge. There is a ground-plot of this town lately made by an artift. In fome parts of this country, the ordinary people make a good fort of ale called bather, that is, ling ale, by boiling the tops of the Hather plant to a wort: then I fuppofe they put wormwood to it, and ferment it. The coal in this country, and which is univerfally diffufed through it, dips many ways, as the falls of valleys, or dudls of rivers, occafionally divert its primary bent j but the main dip of it is to the fouth-eaft. Sometimes here are filfures, or interruptions of fome confiderable quan¬ tity, being coaled Jlrata, ftone, and other materials jumbled together: this proves that there has been fuch a partial difrnption of the Jirata of the earth, as we all along fuppofe was eftecled by the Deluge j but not fuch a hotch-potch, or total mixture and confufion, as others would pretend. It is objefted againft our fcheme, that the ftflies in this deluge would ITER BOREAL E. 65 would be deftroyed, and fo the renewal of them prevented ; for, whether the water of the flood was fait or frefli, or compound, yet this con- fequence muft follow : and indeed I allow it; but I fuppofe the eggs of thefe fifhes renewed the fpecies, which, like the feeds of plants, would in an immenfe quantity efcape the florm, and provide for the fucceeding world. Immenfe are the quantities of coals tranfported from this focus of the kingdom ; and the trade thereof is a perpetual fource of feamen for our navy. They fpeak very bread j fo that, as one walks the ftreets, one can fcarce underftand the common people, but are apt to fancy one’s felf in a foreign country. The perpetual clouds of fmoke hovering in the air makes every thing look black, as at London ; and the falling of it down muft needs inrich all the ground round about. It is an old proverb in this country, “As old as Pandon gatef’ which fhows that there were formerly fome ancient remains thereabouts: and I believe the Pidts wall went from thence, or rather fomewhat above it, i. e. north of it, diredlly acrofs the town, to Weft gate; though now the town is enlarged beyond it: nor was the old city, which ftood within the Wall, fo broad to the eaft and weft, as the prefent town, but only filled up one of the eminences on which it now ftands, having deep valleys with brooks running thiough them on the fides. Again, it may be inferred, there was a city or cajirum at Newcaftle, becaufe the Wall on both fides runs in toward a point fomewhat this way; other- wife they ought to have carried it on by a ftraiter line noi'th of the town, and above it at fome diftance, and where it would better the northern fide of a declivity than at prefent j which was not fo very necefiary when there was a city or caftle here, befide Gabrocentum on the other fide of the water. Further, the ferry over the river here would naturally eredt a city for travellers northward. Thus Tconceive the intention and management of this famous work, the Roman wall. It reaches 90 Roman miles : this is diftributed into nine parts by one of the largeft'caftles, or cities: that interval has fix lefter caftles. The names of the larger, till I am better informed, are thus: i. Blafum Bulgium, Boulnefs 5 2. T>rumabon^ Drumburg caftle; 3. Luguvallum^ Carlifie; l. Amboglaima^ Caftlefteeds; t;. Voreda^ Caer Voran; 6 . Borcovicus, Houfefteeds; y. Procolitia^ Caerhaw brough; ?>. Hun?ium^ Portgate ; g, Vi 77 dolana, Ruchefter; 10. Banna^ Nevrcaftle. The great caftles were generally 400 foot fquare : thefe held a cohort; the leffer held a maniple, or century : the firft confifted of 600, the other of 120 men; for the Romans, in their military affairs efpecially, reckoned by dozens. Thus the great caftles contained a full legion, 60C0 men; the leffer, or centuries, a legion and half: the cohorts were the ftanding garrifon; the centuries were the watch: for the Romans did not, as at prefent, fet a fingle man to watch over an army; but they watched by centuries, whence we have got the word of ftanding century., without the thing. This I fuppofe the primary difpofition, whence it was provided that two legions and a half fhould be a fufficient force to render this wall impregnable; and no doubt it v^^as fo, as long as the Romans continued here. Further, upon the mouths of the riyers were the fleets and galleys, to prevent the enemy from pafling them in their boats, as the Colors /Elia clajjica at Eiwjiocelum, or Tynmouth, as the Notitia Imperii in the laft times informs us. As alfo, of the dif¬ pofition of the other troops along the Wall, and caftles adjacent at that time. Notwithftanding the foregoing method of planting thefe caftles, VoL. II. b as 66 ITER BO R E A L E. as the regular and primary intention of the Romans, in fuch regular diftances that they may relieve one another as occafion requires j yet it muft be underftood with allowance, and accordingly we find it lb: they were not fo ftridt as to plant their caftles at the aihgned diftances indis¬ criminately, for that would be ridiculous ; but chofe out all along the neareft ground to thofe diftances, which by fituation, on hills and the like, beft fuited the end, for ftrength, profpedl, water, and all other conveniencies: they likewife placed them thinner, or more frequent, as the more or lefs defenlible parts of the Wall required. I purfued the Pibls Wall beyond Pandon gate to Baker-mill hill, tw^o miles off eaftward : it is very plain thither from Sandgate mill, both the ridge of the wall, and ditch, the common road going befide it, and many ftones in the foundation left; it pafles a very deep valley at Euxburn, fo afcends the oppofite weftern hill very fteep; a rivulet run¬ ning now in the ditch. Having mounted the hill, a coal-lhaft is funk in the very ditch, and here is a fquare fort left upon the Wall: fome of the foundation of the wall of the fort, and of the Pi6fs Wall, is vifible. This is upon an eminence, and fees from Newcaftle one way beftde Ben- well hill beyond it, where was another fort j and to Baker-mill hill the other way, where no doubt was another ^ but a mill and fome farm- houfes, ftanding thereon, have obliterated it. Between^here and Baker- mill hill both wall and ditch are very plain, the ditch being deep, with a rivulet running along it; the prefent common road to Tynmouth paftes on its north fide. The foundation of the wall is yet intire within the paftures, and a confiderable ridge of it is left. Without the ditch is a coal-work lately fet on fire, which vomits out fmoke continually, like a volcano ; many more coal-works all about it. From Baker-mill hill I obferve it goes ftill forward eaftward, in a right line, upon the north¬ ern verge of the hills, as it has done hitherto, till it comes pretty near TAB. the Tyne. From this hill I took a profpedl of its courfe Newcaftle- LXXVII, ward ; and the rather, becaufe in all probability, if, not from the fired coal-work at prefent, yet from fome others hereabouts, the country being intirely undermined, it may fome time or other fink, and diforder the track of this ftately work. Afterward I purfued the Wall weftward out of weft gate. As foon as I pafled the houfes, I efpied the ditch on my left hand, and the bank whereon ftood the Wall: the common road goes aft, the way on its north fide. I followed it for two miles up the hill by Efv;ic, going along the road fide as before. Many fliafts of the coal-mines are funk upon it. When we are got into the clofes, the foot-way goes along that called Adrian’s ditch ; both bank and ditch plainly vifible, the bank north. It runs parallel to the W^all, but upon the declining ground fouth, as the other north ; this confirms me in my fufpicion, that both works were made at the fame time, and by the fame perfons, and with intent that this fhould be a counter-guard to the other, the whole included fpace being military ground. When arrived at the higheft ground, is Benwell hill, a military work, one of the larger cajira ; being 400 foot along the waft, i. e. eaft and weft ; not quite fo much north and fouth, 350.: this is intrenched with a fofs, and had a ftone waft, the veftiges whereof are fufficiently diftinguifhable; as alfo great tracks of buildings' within it, as at the others. It commands a great profpedl every way : I doubt not but they could fee hence to the next cajtrum weftward; to the • 7/7/r^’ ITE R B O R E A L E. 67 the eail', over Nevvcaftle to the late-mentioned little fort beyond Eux- born 3 fo to Baker-mill hill: fouthward is a moft delightful profpedl up two fine valleys over the Tyne; fo up the hills fouth of Gabrocentuni^ or Gatefliead : the eye reaches too the fea-coaft to ‘Tunnocelum^ or Tynmouth, and the mouth of the river. The village of Benwell fubjacent was built out of the ruins of this place, and great quantity of Bone is Bill left. I faw much fragments of Roman bricks, pavings, and gutter-tiles. Two urns were dug up near here j fent to Durham college. I tranfcribed fome altars too, found in this place, at Mr. Shaftoe’s of Benwell tower. It was a refined piece of management, and great knowledge of things, the Romans fliowed in the method of this wall; and a matter worthy of remark, that they chofe all along to raife this work on the north fide of the two rivers, that partly crofs the illarid hereabouts, the Eden and Tyiie. Many are apt to v/onder at it, and think it was injudicious, imagining the rivers, with a very (lender work on the fouth fide of them, would have been fufncient fecurity, and faved them much labour : but, if we confider this matter, we muB confeis it was not done without great confideration, and a maBer-Broke of military policy ; for by this means the Romans took in all the fine rich ground lying upon the rivers for the fuBentation of their troops, encouraged thereby to cultivate it, and build towns near, and make pofieffions to themlelves and families, that they might live eafy, and think themfelves at home in thefe diBant regions : here too trade and navigation might be carried on, and fupplies of corn, wood, and other materials, conveyed from garrifon to garrifon; and in the times of the perfedlion of this work it muB be looked upon as the beB planted fpot of ground in the ifiand : and we may imagine the glorious (how of towns, cities, caBles, tem.ples, and the like, on the fouth fide of this Wall, by contemplating the prodigious quantities of their ruins and memorials beyond that of any other part of Europe, fcarce excepting imperial Rome: and we have reafon to think this will continue .to be a fource of entertainment for the curious and learned, when that is exhauBed. Hither let the young noblemen and gentry travel, to admire the wonders of their native country, thick fown by that great, wife and induBrious people, and learn with them how to value it. Caefar tells us the warlike nation of the Germans, the Saeviy gloried moB in laying waBe all the bordering countries around them, in deBroy- ing every thing that might adminiBer fuBenance to an enemy in approaching to their quarters. It was certainly equally political in the Romans to leave on the north fide of the Wall that huge tradl of water- lefs and difmal moor, a great barren folitude, where in fome places you may walk fixty miles endwife without meeting with a houfe, or a tree ; to ride it is impradlicable. Thus, as much as in them lay, without the horror of barbarity did they remove the barbarians from their territories 5 whilB within the Wall, either naturally or by their induBry, all things fmiled like the garden of Eden : and indeed, toward both fea-coaBs, about Carlifie and NewcaBle, it is a very defirable and delight¬ ful country : and even in the midland moory trafts, by their great roads made every where, it was very good travelling; and in the worB parts, where their ca/ira Bood, and upon the valleys, it is now tolerably good, and was much better in their days, in the hands of thole who could almoB conquer Nature herfelf. One 68 ITE 11 BOREAL E. One of the Benwell infcriptions is plainly to be filled up at top thus j "Jovi O. M. Doliche?io & numinibus Aug. Mr. Gale fays, there is an in- fcription in Gruter, with Jovi Dolicheno uhi ferrum nafcitur: there is another infcription, to fovi Dolichoio^ found in Wales ; whence he in¬ fers with verifimilitude, that Dolichenus fignifies not a topical deity j rather, fome that prefided over iron-works ; but I cannot imagine what language it is. In the town I found three more infcriptions, though endeavoured to be concealed from me with a rudenefs I never met be¬ fore, even among the mold unbred ruftics. The fort at Benwell hill goes north of the road too, with an equal bulk; lb that the Wall takes a circuit northward to inviron it: it is full of ruins too ; fo that it was really a city, induced probably by the extreme pleafantnefs of the place. A well was lately filled up there. I find very plainly that the Picfs wall, eaft of the town, came from Red Barns all along the ftreet, fo to Pandon gate, there being a great declivity, and a brook running without; then it croffed the valley within the town, where the brook runs, and went up the next hill to All-Saints church, which no doubt ftands upon the Wall, out of which it was built: here is if ill a defcent, where Silver-ff reet is; and northward then it went diredfly to the lane called Panter-haugh, (probably from the old name, Panna^ corrupted) with a defcent ffill northward; fo to the brow of the hill where the caffle ftands : here it met the Wall coming from Weffgate; and no doubt the fite of the prefent caftle was the ancient PannUy and this caffle was built out of the ruins of the old one, and the adjacent parts of the Wall together. I fufpe6f much, that a piece of the outer wall of the prefent caffle, which ftands on the weft fide in a tattered condition, may be Roman, at leaff built with Roman ftone: this going upon the dope of the hill, the courfes of the ffone dope too, parallel with the declivity : but, be that as it will, at the foundation of it, a little lower, I faw a bit of the true old Pvoman wall, and indubitably fo, made of white lime-done, with mortar prodigioudy hard, and ringing like a bell when druck upon. This cadle has a great precipice ead- ward over Sand hill, and fouthward toward the river. In the fields eadward, between Pandon gate and Red Barns, the counter¬ guard as I call that (vulgarly Adrian’s vallum) is plain, running all along parallel to the Wall; which method it obferves where the ground leaves it that liberty. I fuppofe the city that belonged to this cadle of Pamia lay about Sand hill, at the end t)f the ferry. The fouth-w^ed part of the town-wall to the podern was built on the counter-guard of that fide. This town dands on three lingulas doping toward the river. Probably William Rufus rebuilt this caffle too, as that at Carlifle, and with the fame purpofe, as a guard againd the pillaging Scots^ i The manner of conveying the coals down to the river dde from the pits, is very ingenious; a cart-way is made by a frame of timber, on which the wheels of the carts run without hoifes, with great celerity; fo that they are forced to moderate their defcent by a piece of wood like a lever applied to one of the wheels. The manner of rowing their great barges here is aifo very particular, and not unworthy of remark: four men manage the whole; three to a great and long oar, that pudi it forward; and one to another fuch a-dern, that affids the other motion, but at the fame time deers the keel, and correcfs the biafs the other gives it. They obferve that horfes kept under giound in the coal-mines for two or three years, as fometimes they do, have their hair very fine ITER BO REAL E. 69 and (leek, and as fhort almoft as that of a moufe. We faw Col. Lyddal’s coal-works at Tanfield, where he carries the road over valleys filled up with earth, 100 foot high, 300 foot broad at bottom: other valleys as large have a ftone bridge laid acrofs: in other places hills are cut through for half a mile together j and in this manner a road is made, and frames of timber laid, for five miles, to the river fide, where coals were delivered at 55. the chaldron. We were condu6fed down the river, by the officers of the cuftoms, to North Sheels, at the mouth of the river, the T^unnocelum of the Romans. This is a very pleafant open river, and broad; fometimes 300 or 400 fail of fhips lie here. Tinmouth caflle, no doubt, was the Roman cafile, ftanding high on the northern promontory. Clifford’s fort is a fmall infignificant fort upon the edge of the water. The fhore of the river for the moft part is rocky, and in fome places pleafantly covered with wood. We faw Tarrow to the fouthward, famous for the birth-place of the moft learned monk, venerable Bede. Some of the coal-works here dip full eaft: it is plain fouth-eaft is the natural dip in general; thofe at Whitehaven, inclining fouth-weft, I fuppofe receive a counter-bias, as being on the weft fide of the ifiand. Sometimes they fet green poles of alder and the like within the works, to fupport a weak part of the rock over-head ; and then it is obferved the juices in the tree will work upwards, and fpread themfelves upon the rock in a branch-like efflorefcence. Ravenfworth caftle was moated about, and caftellated; but I could hear of no Roman antiquities found there. It ftands under a very plea¬ fant wood, and in a fine vale extending itfelf into Yorkfliire, as they fay, and farther; perhaps through the whole kingdom. Above this houfe to the weft, upon the top of the fell, toward I'anfield is a moft extenfive profpedt, over a great part of the Roman wall; fo to the Cheviot hills toward Scotland, to Tinmouth caftle, the fea, Lumley caftle, and quite round ; that it is very probable fomewhere hereabouts was a Ro¬ man caftle, and this might be the Jlavonia Mr. Baxter places at Ra¬ venfworth. The fund of coal in this country is inexhauftible ; for the wdtole country is a mine of coal quite acrofs the kingdom, in the moors, and fo to Scotland; and this will be an eternal fource of feamen in the king¬ dom. Going up the hill toward Benwell, I find the counter-guard goes juft 300 foot off the wall, which was fufficient for the march of the detachments from place to place. The eaftward part of the w^all joined the caftle where the ftairs now are. A good part of the friery is ftanding, being a court; the chapel is converted into a hall for the fmiths. No¬ thing of the nunnery left, but the jambs of the gate-houfe next the ftreet. GABROCENTVM Was Gatefhead, as its name imports in Britifti, I fuppofe, from the fign of fome inn; a Goat ftill ftands upon a fign of the Golden Lion, crowmcd. I guefs this was a fortified town in the times of the R^omans, where a ferry was for paffage northward; but by reafon of the buildings no traces of it are left: it ftands on a fteep rocky defcent weftward. The Roman road here, which is the true Hermen-ftreet coming from Sufiex, coming down Gatefhead fell, pafies in a ftrait line to the bridge, i faw feveral Roman ftones here, the recipient pai t of their hand-mills. VoL. II. T In 70 ITER BOREAL E. In this place, in the time of the Notitia^ lay the fecond cohort of the Thracians in garrifon. There is an odd maufoleum in the church¬ yard. Lord Hertford’s workmen, digging up the Roman city by Marl¬ borough, found a piece of brafs with an infcription in Romano-barba¬ rous letters, a quarter of an inch high, thus: A.MaIS.aBaLLaVa. VXELODVM.CaMBOGLaNS.BaNNa; which I interpreted, being the names of five Roman ftations : it was upon the edge of a cup. The caftle at Newcaftle was built by Robert fon of William 1 . after his return from the expedition againft Malcolm king of Scots. CONDERCVM. Chester on the Street. Lumley caftle has a fine appearance hence. The Hermen-ftreet is very plain, being in a ftrait line hither when we defcend from Gatefhead fell. I think Bede mentions this ftation, as called Concefter, which retains part of the Roman name. Great coal-works too hereabouts. The firft wing of the Afiures made this their garrifon, as the Notitia tells us, being ad lineam njalli j for, though it be not upon the Wall, it is reafonable to think his exprefiion is not to be ftriftly taken: it was con¬ venient that fome of the forces that guarded the wall fhould be quartered at fome fuitable diftance, that they might have room of country for their maintenance. Here was a collegiate church founded by Anthony Bee, bifliop of Durham; and here lived the Lindisfarn bifhops, with the cele¬ brated body of St. Cuthbert, before they fettled at Durham. At Lumley caftle is a curious old pidlure of Chaucer, faid to be an original. Egel- ric monk of Peterborough, after bifliop, built a church here in the time of William I. in digging the ioundation he found an infinite deal of money, (Roman, I fuppofe,) with which he repaired the church at Burgh, and made a caufeway through the fens between Spalding and Deeping. DURHAM, Extremely well feated in a bend of the Vedra. The neck of the pen- infula is guarded by a ftrong caftle, with a great tower upon a keep, or mount; it is now the biftiop’s palace: all beyond that is the abbey- ground. The city lies before the caftle, and on both fides the river: this being very high ground, the back fide of every ftreet has gardens, with a fine profpedl over the river. It would be very ftrange if the Romans miil'ed fo fine and ftrong a fttuation, fo near the great road ; yet I do not hear of any antiquities found here : but eaftward over the river, upon another peninfula of high ground, I faw a camp, called Maiden- caftle, which I judge to be theirs: it is almoft incompafled too by a rivulet falling into the river from the eaft: it is of an oblong form, 500 foot long, very fteep on three fides; the neck is guarded by a ram¬ part, and without that, at fome little diftance, wdth a ditch. The pro- f'pedl is large, more efpecially eaftward. The church antiquities of this place are capable of a large liiftory, if purfued thoroughly by a judicious hand : it would give one a good idea of the ancient manner and magnificence of our great abbeys: there are no where fuch remains of that kind left among us. The revenues hereof are very great; which enables them to keep every thing in good repair, and to live very fplendidiy: indeed the whole city is fupported only by the Pi'' t - - h'-.: 'f-' 'iP': ,'?? r'. M- ' ^:-l' . ;*■'■ X - ' ■•(:-■ . i • .V' ,. 'i ■■ ■ 'i'-J.; ; .(yjzzzuQT ^3 ^-aa.i^ jy pya^zzz^y ^VZ . . ;• -v.., - ■ • . . -v’. . ;-i if' .• . • •. r ' '■':: ^ '>^„1 .'•.A.-; '-iiju ■''di M'. ■■ :'- -‘f, V., 4 >- ? /1 -J.^y,;, ■\v/ t’jv:. ‘‘■■•■.■Vi*r^^ • » •nn' 'A'^ • . . .ii.’ I \ - fl li-"’ -u :fM9 .I'll) .. VvSs'-’.vWSW^V KPOM LErH>:N Z'/r// j/n oej /u'^7J'/^ yr/2ij> . J JT/ir/y^ pff6^ Celtic $ epuUiLre s ai(^inNiJ a (/^(^^r/!^r a i/a/wZ /ya/h-^ZZj/?uu^ ^ trtA m r/u J^izr^Vi , C E XT IC Sepi il ture I l?/i l/ic /^ad/ld£ Jf C/i^r/iatL J'/z/Ae/ey /Ac A//1 IJA.irriJ fcrif/j - .-• • i .1 I f y6 Brass Celts 1 ' ■ "■ . ■■ ■ ^ '- • .: 4 / 4 ^ \ ' / -'■■ ■ ;•■ • ' W;---- ["..A ;<• •> rt.j;- - : j;.' / ■ 4; ■r/y]' 4::; ? N ' ,) y.. I#'" ■ri V ,ir^ r^'.' ?;.5'..‘-.s-i; Ma-'4 {/riort cj- (iMn/ // ( Chori Ecci; Cath. Er or; Arcu S' Australis. CORRU VLPHI • 66 Renmant Rami'ey^Atby ^7^} ■ 'JbTZ^' /^Z/Tzn' ne, . i . V > X ■ , T'.i-.v- . :rvj' 1 o'tI LG'j'i--n^k ;' IJ -j.y oCr'i’h i ... ■.. ' j;'i: ru ■ :’/X V.'• .• -*■" " .M • ni..TlZ . •-V'^ 7u;-viC ‘ ':- Milk-:. • , ‘ '•T' '*-'• / '* ■■ t*/' ^ _ ■.;d-,f:> ; j r 'i.y. ^ 'Ji-t ■-^■’ ) - i • -h- ^ ^ ' i"* )^iy.ry:;| .£ /: u$ fi'.:M./?Wp 7--4. .1 'i.' ■' • . . .. -'.., i ^ ? , I R I C A R D I MONACHI WESTMONASTERIENSIS COMMENTARIOLI GEOGRAPHICI Defcriptionis BRITTANI^ fub ditione ROMANI IMPERII LIBER SECUNDUS. P R iE F A T I O. I N fupplementum datae hucufque Brittaniae antiquae defcriptionis i dedudtum parili compendio fubjungere confultum duxi I. Chronologiae, a prima inde orbis origine ad vaftata a Gothis Ro- 2 mam deduftae, epitomen. & II. Imperatorum Legatorumque Romanorum qui huic regioni cum imperio praefuerant brevem recenfum. Dicant forte nonnulli potuiffe iftiusmodi operam, utpote non abfolute 3 neceflariam, vel cultui divino, vel majoris momenti rebus impendi, at fciant illi & fubfecivas horas antiquitatibus patriis priftinique teri arum Ratus inveftigationi poffe vindicari, ut tamen nichil propterea facro cul¬ tui decedat. lin vero Momus iftiusmodi captatam ex otio licito volup¬ tatem nobis invideat, ad finem properans metseque jam adftitutus heic pedem figo. CAPUT I. I N principio mundum, nobis hodiernum reliquisque creaturis habi- 4 tatum, VI. dierum fpatio ex nihdo condidit omnipotens Creator. Amo Mundi MDCLVI. Crefcentem continuo ufu humani generis 5 malitiam vindicaturus Creator diluvium Orbi immifit, quod totum ob¬ ruens mundum omnem delevit viventium ordinem, folis, quae arcam intraverant, exceptis & fervatis, quorum deinceps propago novis anima¬ lium colonis novum orbem replevit. A. M. MMM. Circa haec tempora cultam & habitatam primum 6 Brittaniam arbitrantur nonnulli, cum illam falutarent Graeci Phoeni¬ cesque mercatores, nec defunt, qui a Rege quodam Brytone non diu poftea conditum credunt Londinium. A. M. MMMCCXXVIII. Prima urbis Romae, quae gentium exinde 7 communis terror, fundamenta pofuerunt fratres Romulus & Remus. A. M. MMMDC. Egrefli e Brittania per Galliam Senones Italiam 8 invafere, Romam oppugnaturi. A. .M> MMMDCL. Has terras intrarunt Belgae, Celtaeque defertam 9 a Senonibus regionem occuparunt, non diu pollea cum exercitu in hoc regnum tranfiit Rex iEduorum Divitiacus, rr agnamque ejus partem fubegit. circa haec tempora in Hyberniam commigrarunt, ejedti a Belgis Brittones, ibique fedes pofuerunt, ex illo tempoie Scotti appellati. 10-^, M . 104 RICARDI MONACHI Lib. II. 10 A. M. MMMDCCGCXLIII. Geilum eft Caffibeiini cum civi¬ tatibus maritimis bellum. 11 A. M. MMMDCCCCXLVI. Caefar Germanos Gallos capit, & Brittones quoque, quibus ante eum ne nomen quidem Romanorum cognitum fuerat, vidlor, obfidibus acceptis, ftipendarios facit. 12 A. M. MMMDCCCCXLVII. Denuo in has terras profedtus bel¬ lum geffit cum Rege Caffiorum Caflibelino, invitatus, ut ipfe quidem praetendit, a Trinobantibus, fed, quod majore veri fpecie tradit Suetonius, potius avaritiem ipfius follicitantibus praetiofis Brittaniae margaritis. 13 A. M. MMMMXLIV. Ipfe in Brittaniam profedtus Imperator Claudius, femeftri fpatio, abfque ulla vi aut faiiguinis effufione, mag¬ nam infulae partem in fuam redegit poteftatem, quam exinde Caefari- enfem juffit vocari. 14 A. M. MMMMXLV. Miftus ab Imperatore Claudio cum II. Legi¬ one in has terras Vefpafianus, adhuc in privata vita, Belgas Damno- niosque oppugnavit, tandemque, commiffis proeliis XXXII. urbibus XX. expugnatis, fub obfequium Romani Imperii redegit, una cum infula Vedia. 15 A. M. MMMMXLVIL Thermas & Glebon occupaverunt Ro¬ mani. 16 A, M. MMMML. Poll novennale bellum Regem Silurum Cha- raticum vicit Dux Romanorum Oftorius, magna Brittaniae pars in formam provinciae redadla, & Camalodunenfis coloniae pofita fun¬ damenta. 17 A. M. MMMMLII. Cogibundo urbes quaedam apud Belgas a Ro¬ manis conceifae, ut inde fibi conderet Regnum, circa haec tempora, relidla Brittania, Cangi & Brigantes in Hyberniam commigrarunt fedesque ibi pofuerunt. 18 A. M. MMMMLXI. Nero Imperator, in re militari nichil om¬ nino aufus, Brittaniam pene amifit. nam duo fub illo nobiliOima oppida illic capta atque everfa funt. nam infurrexit contra Romanos Bondvica, illatam fibi a Romanis injuriam vindicatura, colonias illas Romanorum, Londinium, Camalodunum & municipium Veru¬ lamium igne delevit, occifis ultra odloginta millibus civium Roma¬ norum. fuperata illa, tandem a Suetonio, qui acerrime illatum Ro¬ manis damnum vindicavit, occifo fubditorum ejus cequali numero. 19 A. M. MMMMLXXIII. Brigantes vicit Cerealis. 20 A. M. MMMMLXXVI. Ordovices pledlit Frontinus. 21 A. M. MMMMLXXX. Magnum cum Rege Caledoniorum Gal- gaco proelium committit Agricola, eoque devidlo, totam infulam cum clalfe luftrari jubet, maritimamque ipfius oram totus obiens, Orcades fubmittit Imperio Romano. 22 A. M. MMMMCXX. Ipfe in Brittaniam tranlit Hadrianus Im¬ perator, immenfoque muro unam infulse partem ab altera fejungit. 23 A. M. MMMMCXL. Milius ab Antonino Pio Urbicus victoriis inclarefcit. 24 A. M. MMMMCL. Nonnullos quoque a Brittanis vidfoiias reportat Aurelius Antoninus. 25 A. M. M ViMMCLX. Luce Chriftianifmi, regnante Lucio Rege, colluftratur Brittania, Rege Cruci Chrifti fe primum lub- mittente. A. M. Cap. I. DE SITU BRITTANI^. 105 A. M. MMMMCLXX. Provincia Vefpafiana ejiciuntur Romani. 26 hoc circiter tempore ex infulis in Brittaniam cum Piclis fuis adveniiTe creditur Reuda Rex. A. M. MMMMCCVII. Deftrudlum, a Romanis conditum, murum 27 reftituit tranfiens in Brittaniam Severus Imperator, & non diu poll Eboraci, manu Dei, moritur. A. M. MMMMCCXI. Venalem a Maeatis pacem obtinuit Baffi- 28 anus. A. M. MMMMCCXX. Per hsec tempora intra moenia fe conti- 29 nent Romani milites, altaque pace tota perfruitur infula. A, M. MMMMCCXC. Caraufius, fumpta purpura, Brittanias 30 occupavit, poft X. annos per Afclopiodorum Brittania recepta. A. M. MMMMCCCIIII. Perfecutio crudelis & crebra flagrabat, 31 ut intra unum menfem XVII. millia Martyrum pro Chrifto palfa inveniantur, quae & Oceani limbum tranfgrelfa Albanum, Aaron, & Julium Brittones cum aliis pluribus viris & fceminis felici cruore damnavit. A. M. MMMMCCCLVI. Conflandus, XVI. imperii anno, fum- 32 mae manfuetudinis & civilitatis vir, vidlo Alebto, in Brittania diem obiit Eboraci. A. M. MMMMCCCVII. Conflandus, qui Magnus poflea dicitur, 3 3 Conflantii ex Brittanica Helena filius, in Brittaniis creatus Imperator, cui fe fponte tributariam offert Hyberniam. A. M. MMMMCCCXX. Dudtu Regis Fergufii in Brittaniam 34 tranfeunt Scotti, ibique fedem figunt. A. M» MMMMCCCLXXXV. Theodofius Maximum tyrannum 35 III. ab Aquileia lapide interfecit, qui, quoniam Brittaniam omni pene armata juventute copiisque fpoliaverat militaribus, quse, tyrannidis ejus veftigia fecutae in Gallias, nunquam ultra domum rediere, viden¬ tes, transmarinae gentes faeviflimas, Scottorum a circio, Pidforum ab aquilone, deflitutam milite ac defenfore infulam, adveniunt, 6c vaflatam direptam que eam multos per annos opprimunt. ’ A. M. MMMMCCCXCVI. Brittones Scottorum, Piclorumque 36 infefladonem non ferentes, Romam mittunt, &, fui fubjedtione promif- fa, contra hoflem auxilia flagitant, quibus flatim mifla legio magnam Barbarorum multitudinem fternit, ceteros Brittaniae finibus pellit, ac, domum reverfura, praecepit fociis, ad arcendos hofles, murum trans infulam inter duo aeftuaria flatuere. qui, abfque artifice magiflro magis cefpite quam lapide fadlus, nil operantibus profuit, nam mox, ut dif- eeffere Romani, adveftus navibus prior hoflis, quafi maturam fegetem, obvia quaeque fibi caedit, calcat, devorat. A. M. MMMMCCCC. Iterum petiti auxilia Romani advolant 37 caefum hoflem trans maria fugant conjundds fibi Brittonibus, murum non terra, ut ante pulvereum, fed faxo folidum, inter civitatis, quae ibi¬ dem ob metum hoftium fuerunt fadfae, a mari ufque ad mare collocant, fed & in littore meridiano maris, quia & inde hoflis Saxonicus timebatur, turres per intervalla ad profpebfum maris flatuunt. id Stilichontis erat opus, ut ex his Claudiani verfibus conflat: - Caledonio velata Brittania monjlro^ Ferro Pidta genas, cujus vejiigia verrit Ccerulus, Oceanique eejlum tnejititur, amidiis: Me quoque vicinis pereuntem ge?itibus, inquit. Munivit Stilicho, fotam cum Scottus Hybernam VoL. II. E e Movit; io6 RICARDI MONACHI Lib. II. Movit i & infejlo fpumavit remige Tbcfys. Illius effeBum curisy nec bella timerem Scotica ne Pi 5 lum tremeremy ne litiore toto Profpicerem dubiis venturum Saxona ventis. 38 A. M. MMMMCCCCXI. Occupata a Gothis eft Roma, fedes quartae & maxumae Monarchiarum, de quibus Daniel fuerat vaticinatus, anno milefimo centefimo fexagefimo quarto fu« conditionis, ex quo autem tempore Romani in Brittania regnare ceflarunt, poft annos ferme CCCCLXV. ex quo Julius Caefar eandem infulam adiit. 39 A. M. MMMMCCCCXLVI. Recedente a Brittaniis legione Romana, cognita Scotti & Pi6fi reditus denegatione, redeunt iph, & totam ab aquilone infulam pro indigenis muro tenus capefcunt nec mora, casfis, captis, fugatisque cuftcdibus muri & ipfo interrupto, etiam intra illum crudelis praedo gralfatur. mittitur epiftola lachrymis aerumnisque referta ad Romanae poteftatis virum FI. .^tium, ter con- fulem, vicefimo tertio Theodofii Principis anno petens auxilium, nec impetrat. CAPUT II. ERIT AT EM, quoad fieri licuit, fe6fatus fui, fi quid occurrat forte, V illi non exa6le congruum, illud raichi ne imputetur vitiove ver¬ tatur rogo, me enim ad regulas legesque Hiftoriae iollicite componens, ea bona fide collegi aliorum verba et relationes, quae fincera maxume deprehendi & fide dignillima. ad caetera praeter Elenchum Imperatorum Legatorumque Romanorum, qui huic iniulae cum imperio praefuerunt, amplius quidquam expectare nolit Ledtor, quocumque meum opus finiam. II. Igitur, primus omnium Romanorum Dictator Julius cum exercitu, principatu Caliibellino, Brittaniam ingreffus, quamquam profpera pugna terruerit incolas, ut Tacitus refert, ac littore potitus fit, poteft videri Oilendifie pofteris, non tradidilfe. III. Mox bella civilia, & m rempublicam verfa principum arma, ac longa oblivio Brittaniae etiam in pace, confilium id Auguftus vocabat, Tiberius praeceptum, agitafle Caligulam de intranda Brittania fatis con¬ fiat, ni velox ingenio, mobilisque poenitentia, & ingentes adverfus Ger¬ maniam conatus frufira fuiffent. IV. Claudius vero Brittaniae intulit bellum, quam nullus Romanorum pofi Julium Caefarem attigerat, transvectis legionibus auxiliisque, fine ullo proelio ac fanguine, intra pauciliimos dies partem infulae in ditionem recepit, deinde mifit Vefpafianum, adhuc in privata vita, qui tricies & his cum hofie conflixit, duas validiflimas gentes cum Regibus eorum, XX. oppida & infulam Veftem, Brittaniae proximam, imperio Romano adjecit, reliquas devicit per Cnaeum Sentium & Aulum Plautium, illufires & nobiles viros, & triumphum celebrem egit. V. Subinde Ofiorius Scapula, vir bello egregius, qui in formam pro¬ vinciae proximam partem Brittaniae redegit, addita infuper veteranorum colonia Camalodunum, quaedam civitates Cogiduno Regi donatae, is ad Trajani ulque Principatum fidelifiimus manfit, ut Tacitus fcribit. VI. Mox Avitus Didius Gallus parta a prioribus continuit, paucis ad¬ modum caftellis in ulteriora permotis, per quae fama au6ti officii qurereretur. VII. Didium Verannius excepit, isque intra annum exfiinflus efi. VIII. Cap. II. DE SITU BRITTANI^. 107 VIII. Suetonius hinc Paulinus biennio profperas res habuit, fuba6tis nationibus, firmatisque pr^fidiis, quorum fiducia Monam infulam, ut vires rebellibus miniftrantem, aggrefius terga occafioni patefecit, namque Legati abfentia remoto metu Brittones accendere, atque Bonduica, gene¬ ris Regii fcemina, duce, fumpfere univerfi bellum j ac fparfos per ca- ftella milites confedtati, expugnatis prsefidiis, ipfam coloniam invafere, ut fedem fervitutis, nec ullum in barbaris faevitiae genus omifit ira & vidloria. quod, nifi Paulinus, eo cognito provinciae motu profpere fub- veniflet amifla Brittania foret, quam unius proelii fortuna veteri patientiae reftituit. tenentibus arma plerisque, quos confcientia defedtionis, & pro¬ prius ex Legato timor agitabat. IX. Hic cum egregius caetera, arrogantes in deditos ut fuae quoque injuriae ultor, durius confuleret; miflus Petronius Turpilianus tanquam exorabilior & delidlis hoftium novus, eoque poenitentiae mitior, compofitis prioribus, nichil ultra aufus, Trebellio Maximo provinciam tradidit. X. Trebellius fegnior & nullis caftrorum experimentis, comitate quadam curandi, provinciam tenuit. Didicere jam barbari quoque Brit¬ tones ignofcere vitiis blandientibus. & interventus civilium armorum, praebuit juftam fegnitiae excufationem. fed difcordia laboratum, cum afili- etus expeditionibus miles otio lafciviret. Trebellius fuga ac latebris vitata exercitus ira, indecorus atque humilis, praecario mox praefuit, ac velnt padli, exercitus licentiam. Dux falutem. haec feditio fine fanguine fletit. XI. Nec Vedfius Bolanus manentibus adhuc civilibus bellis agitavit Brittaniam difciplina. eadem inertia erga hoftes fimilis petulantia caftro¬ rum: nifi quod innocens Bolanus 6c nullis delidlis invifus charitatem pera- verat loco authoritatis. XII. Sed ubi cum cstero Orbe, Vefpafianus 6c Brittaniam recuperavit, magni Duces, egregii exercitus, minuta hoftium fpes: & terrorem ftatim intulit Petilius Cerealis, Brigantum civitatem, quae numerofiftima pro¬ vinciae totius perhibetur, aggrelfus. multa proelia & aliquando non incru¬ enta: magnamque Brigantum partem aut vidloria amplexus, aut bello. XIII. Sed cum Cerealis quidem alterius fucceftbris curam famamque obruifiet, fuftinuit quoque molem Julius Frontinus, vir magnus quan¬ tum licebat, validamque & pugnacem Silurum gentem armis fubegit; fuper virtutem hoftium locorum quoque difficultates eludfatus. XIV. Succeffit huic Agricola, qui non folum acquifitam provinciie pacem conftituit, fed etiam annos feptem plus minus continuis Caledonios, cum bellociffimo Rege ipforum Galgnco, debellavit, quo fadto Romano¬ rum ditioni gentes non antea cognitas adjunxit. XV. Majorem vero Agricolae gloriam invidens Domitianus, domum eum revocavit. Legatumque fuum Lucullum in Brittanias mifit, quod lanceas novas formre appellari Lucculeas pafllis eflet. XVI. Succefibr ejus Trebellius erat, fub quo duae provinciae, Vefpafiana fcilicet & Maaeta, fracfae funt. Romani fe ipfos autem luxuriae dederunt. XVII. Circa idem tempus infulam hancce vifitans Hadrianus Impe¬ rator murum, opus fane mirandum & maxume memorabile, erexit, Ju- iiumque Severum Legatum in Brittaniis reliquit. XVIII. Poftea nichil unquam notatu dignum audivimus effe perpe¬ tratum, donec Antoninus Pius per Legatos fuos plurima bella geflit, nam & Brittones, per Lollium Urbicum Propraetorem & Saturninum Praefectum claftis, vicit, alio muro, fubmotis barbaris, duCto. provinciam, poftea Valentiae nomine notam, revocavit. XIX. io 3 RICARDI MONACHI Lib. II. XIX. Pio Martuo, varlas de Brittonibus, Germanisque vic^torias repor¬ tavit Aurelius Antoninus. XX. Mortuo autem Antonino, cum ea quae Romanis ademerant fatis non haberent, magnam a Legato Marcello paffi funt cladem. XXL Hic Pertinacem habuit fuccefforem, qui fortem quoque fe geflit ducem. XXII. Hunc excepit Clodius Albinus, qui de fceptro & purpura cum Severo contendit. XXIII. Poll hos primus erat Virius Lupus, qui Legati nomine gaude¬ bat. non huic multa praeclara gefta adfcribuntur, quippe cujus gloriam intercepit invi 61 :iirimus Severus, qui, fugatis celeritur hoftibus, murum Hadrianum, nunc ruinofum, ad fummam ejus perfedtionem reparavit; &, fi vixerat, propofuerat exftirpare barbaros, quibus erat infeftus, cum eorum nomine, ex hacce infula, fed obiit, manu Dei, apud Brigantes in municipio Eboraco. XXIV. Ejusque in locum fubiit Alexander, qui orientis quasdam viftorias reportavit, in Edifla mortuus. Sicilia. XXV. Succelfores habuit Legatos Lucilianum, M. Furium, N. Phi¬ lippum .. qui fi defenfionem terminorum ab iplis obfervatam exceperimus, nil fere egerunt. XXVI. Poft.. . . •. Defimt reliqua ... FINIS. An An ACCOUNT of RICHARD OF CIRENCESTER, MONK of WESTMINSTER, And of his Works: With his Ancient MAP of ROMAN BRITAIN, And the Itinerary thereof. Read at the Antiquarian Society, March i8, 1756. I. 7^ the Right Honourable the Rord WILUGHBY of Parham, Prefident of the Antiquarian Society. T he love I had for my own country, in my younger days, prompted me to vifit many parts of it, and to refufe great offers made me to go into foreign and fafliionable tours. I was fenfible we abounded at home with extraordinary curiofities, and things remarkable, both in art and nature; as well as moft valuable antiquities in all kinds, moil worthy of our regard, and which it moif became us to take cognifance of. Tliefe confiderations might perhaps induce me to be too halfy in pub- lifliing my juvenile work in this kind of learning, Itinerarium Curiofum, chiefly with a view to point out a way and method of inquiry, and to render this ftudy both ufeful and entertaining. The more readily, therefore, I can excufe myfelf, in regard to im- perfeefions in that work, as I had not fight of our author’s treatil’e, Richard of Cirencetler, at that time abfolutely unknown. Since, then, I have had the good fortune to fave this moft invaluable work of his, I could not refrain from contributing fomewhat toward giving an account of it, and of its author. I gladly addrefs it to your Lordfhip, who worthily prefide over the Antiquarian Society. I am fenllble your Lordfliip is animated with a like fpirit in favour of your country, and of your country antiquities. I pi'opofe therefore briefly to recite, I. What memoirs we can recover, concerning our author and his writings, with the cccaflon and manner of finding out and having the manufeript. n. I fhall give an account of tlie map prefixed to the prefent treatife, Vv'liich I copied from that of our author ; giving it the advantage of the VoL. JI. F f prefent I IO prefent geographical direction. I fliall exhibit an alphabetical index of all the places mentioned in it, with the modern names annexed. III. A tranfcript of his moft curious Itinerary j with an alphabetical index, all along affigning the prefent names of the places, according to the beft of my judgement. This is the laft help we mull expedt, toward finding out the Roman Names of places in Britain. I. Let us inquire, who our Richard of Cirencefler was : and it will be regular to declare who he was not. He has often been confounded Vvdth a Richard, a monk of Weftmin- ffer, a writer who lived a good deal after our author. This latter Richard was a Devonfhire man, cited by Rifdon, in his defcription of that country; by Antony Wood, from Pitfe’s manufcript, p. 462; by Fuller, book I. in his Worthies, p. 263 ; by Bale, V. 87 ; by bifhop Tanner, who repeats this ; all erroneoufly. My learned friend, the reverend Mr. Widmore, librarian to Weft- minfter Abbey, deferves public thanks for his inquiries, which he made at my requeft. In perufing the Abbey rolls diligently, he finds, that he was Richard, a monk of V/eftminfter, admitted, in 1450, a member of that religious foundation : that he continued there till 1472. The roll beyond that time is defedlive. But our author (Richard of Cirencefter)’s name firft appears on the chamberlain’s lift of the monks of Weftminfter, by the name Circejire, in 1355- 30 Ed. III. In 1387, he is witnefs in a parchment deed, by the name of Ricbardo Cirencejlre confrai er. 1397, in the chamberlain’s lift, mentioned again i?. 1399, Ric. Cire7iceJ}re. 1400, he was in the Abbey infirmary, and died in that or the next year. The place of his interment, queftionlefs, is in the Abbey cloifters. What is more particularly to be remarked, is this. In the year 1391, 14 R. 11 . he obtained a licence of the abbot, to go to Rome. This, no doubt, he performed between that and the year 1397. Thus bifhop Nicolfon, in his Englifh hiftorical library, p. 65. “ Nor “ have I any more to fay, of Richard of ChicheJIer (he means our Ciren- “ cefter) than what John Pitts has told me, fob 438, that he was a monk of Weftminfter, A. D. 134B ; that he travelled to moft of the “ libraries in England, and out of his collections thence, compiled a “ notable hiftory of this kingdom, from the coming in of the Saxons, “ down to his own time. “ But it feems (fays the bifliop) he treated too of much higher times.” Hence vre gather an exact idea of our author’s genius; a lover of learning, a lover of his country; which he ftudied to adorn. We learn his indefatigable diligence, in fearch of what might contribute to its hiftory. He travelled all over England, to ftudy in the monaftic libraries: his eager thirft prompted him to vifit Rome; and he pro¬ bably fpent fome years there. But his chief attention was to the hi¬ ftory of his own country. It will give you pleafure to read the original licence, ftill preferved In the archives of the Abbey, as Mr. Widmore tranfcribed it, omitting the contraclions. E vetcrl Ill RICHAllD of Cirencefter. E veferi fcripto 7nembranaceo^ in Archtvis Ecclejia Wejlfnonajlcrii , Univerjis SanSla Matris Ecclcjia filiis-^ ad quorum notitiatn frefentes litem pervenerint. Willielmus permijjione dixina Abbas Monallertt beati Petri Wejimonajlerii juxta London., apojiolica fedi immediate fubjeBi., Salutem, in eo quern peperit uterus virginalis. Cum dileBus nobis in Chrijio Jilius et commonachus nofier, jrater Ricardus de Cirencejlria, cum injlantia nobis humiliter fupplicaverit j quatenus eidem limina Apojhlorum et aha loca facra in Urbe Romana, et in partibus aliis tranfrnarinis gratia, vifitandi licentiam concedere dignaremur. Nos vero pmdiblt fratris Ricardi devotionem con- fderantes, deque ipfnis fratris Ricardi morum honefate, vita puritate, per- feBaque ac fincera, religionis obfervantia, quibus haBenus lucide infigmtur ; prout experimentaliter per triginta annos et ampli iis, experti fumus, plemus confidentes j Univerfitati vefira et vefirum cuilibet notificamus, per prafenies : eidem filio nofiro et commonacho, ad diBam peregrinationem peragendam, in fuorum augmentum meritorum, Licenfiam concefjijje fpecialem. unde vefiram caritatem benignius imploramus, quatenus huic tefiimomo nofiro fidem in^ dubiam adhibentes, eidem filio nofiro et commonacho, cum penes vefirum aliquem quicquam habuerit faciendum, finum pietatis largius aperientes, vefirum auxilium, confilium, et favorem eidem, in Domino libenter volueritis impertiri. In cujus rei tefiimonium, figillum nofirum authenticum prcefentibus appofui- rnus. Datum apud Wejlmonafierium praediBum in fefio fanBi Ehoma Apofioli, Anno Domini Millefimo irecentefimo nonagefimo primo. In dorfo. Licentia Abbatis Wefimonafierii concejfa fratri Ricardo Circefire, de pere-^ grinatione ad Curiam Romanam. The abbot here is William de Colceftre, created 1386.-de Lit- lyngton preceded him ; in whofe time our Richard was admitted into the Abbey, above thirty years ago. Obferve we, in his chorography of Britain he is a little more particu¬ lar upon Cirencefter; as a genius is naturally inclined to ftiow regard t6 the place of his nativity. Et cui reliquce ( urbes) nomen, laudemque debent, Corinum ; urbs perfpica- bilis: Opus, ut tradunt, Vefpafiani Duds. Again, we may believe, Richard was of a good family, and had a fortune of his own, to fupport the charge of travelling. Hence we need not wonder to fee the produce of his eager thirft in learning. He was not content to write the tranfaffions in his own con¬ vent, or of thofe of his own time, but penetrated far and deep in his refearches: for we ftiall find, that he wrote the Englifh hiftory to his own time; the Saxon hiftory complete ; above that, the Britifti hiftory, from the time the Romans left us: and, to crown all, we learn from the prefent work, now happily preferved, the completeft account of the Ro¬ man ftate of Britain, and of the moft ancient inhabitants thereof; and the geography thereof admirably depicted in a moft excellent map. Such was this truly great man, Richard of Cirencefter! What was his family, name, and origin, we know not; but it was the fafhion of the ecclefiaftics of thofe days, and fo down to Henry the Vlllth’s time, to take local names from the place of their nativity ; probably, as more honourable: for moft of the names then were what we call fobriquets, travelling names j a cuftom learnt from the expeditions into the Holy Land; what we call nick-names: for inftance, fome were taken from offices, as pope, bifi:op, priefi, deacon ; fome from animals, as bull, doe, hog ; I 12 ACCOUNT of bog-, fome from birds, as bat, kite, peacock-, fome from fiflies, as falmon, hcn-ing, pike -, fome diminutive names of mere contempt, as peafecod, fcattergood, mifl, jarthmg -, and the very family-royal, the celebrated Flantagcnct, means no more than hroomjlick. But, to leave this, we will recite what we find of our author’s works. Thus Gerard John Voffius, de hijloricis Latinis, L. III. quarto, p. 532, engliflied: “ About the year 1340, lived Richard of Cirencefter, an “ Englifhman, monk of Weftminher, Benedidline. He ufed much induftry in compiling the hiiiory of the Anglo-Saxons, in five books “ of Chronica : that work begins from the arrival of Hengifi; the Saxon “ into Britain, A. D. 448. thence, through a feries of nine centuries, “ he ends at the year 1348, 32 Ed. III. and this work is divided into “ two. The firli part begins, Poft primum lujidcc Brittanice regem, &c. This is called by the author Speculum hijlorialc, and contains four books. The other part is called Anglo-Saxonum Chronicon, L. V. is a conti¬ nuation of the former part, Brudentice Veterum mos inolevit —it was John Stow’s, fays a m.anufcript note of Jofcelin, in a manufcript in the Cotton library, Nero C. iii. A manufcript of both parts is found in the public library, Cambridge, among the manufcripts, fob contains pages 516, and four books; ends in 1066. (248.) in the catalogue of manufcripts mentioned p. 168, N° 2304. (124.) It begins, Brittamiia infularum optima, See. in the end (fays Dr. James, librarian in A. D. 1600.) are thefe words, Rtges vero Saxonum Gulielmo Malmpurienfi et Henrico Huntendonienji permitto : quos de regibus Britonum tacere jubeo, &c. Vofiius lays, there is in Bennet-College library, Cambridge, a manu¬ fcript epitome Chronicorum, which acknowledges our Richard for its author, in the title. There is in the x^rundel library of the Royal Society, among the manufcripts, p. 137, mentioned this. Britonum, Anglorum et Saxonum hijloria, to tire reign cf Hen. III. faid to be of this author. Dr. Stanley, in his catalogue of the manufcripts in Bennet-College library aforefaid, p, 22. G. VIII. mentions this. Ricardi Ciccjlrii Spe¬ culum hi/ioriale, vel Anglo-Saxonum Chronicon, ab anno 449. ad H. III. In the printed catalogue of manufcripts, p. 134. N° 1343. (66.) Epi- tofjie CLronicorum Anglia, L. i, 2. Epitome Chronicorum Ric. Cic. Monachi JVejlmonaftei 'ii . 'riiere is a work of our Richard’s in the Lambeth library, among the Wharton manufcripts, L. p. 39. and the late Dr. Richard Rawlinfon bought a manufcript of his, at Sir Jofeph Jekyl’s fale j which is new at Oxford. g -, but we Our autlior was not eminent folely in this kind of learnin find likewife the tmees of other works of his, in his clerical cnaraCtcr. Thus, in a Volume of St. Jerom’s Eugenium, 19. 9- a manufcript in Eemiet-College libi'ary, is mention of "I radiatus mag. magijlri Ricardi Circnceftre, fuper jymboliim majus et minus. There is Irkewde, in the hbiary of Petei'burgh, T. IV. a work of his, de Ojjiciis Ecclcjiaflicis, 1 .. Vll. begins Calcium ut —Tins is mentioned by Vvhliiarn V/ydeford, and attributed to our Richard, in Iris determination againib the trialogue of Wiciiff, artic. i. fob 96. hkev»dfe by Richard W’yeh, who fays lie fiouriiJicd A. D. 1348. Thus ”3 RICHARD of Cirencefter. Thus much we have to fay concerning our author’s life and works. But let us refle6l on what Dr. Nicolfon fays, in reciting what he had wrote of the Saxon hiftory; adding, but it JeemSy he treated too of much higher times. Here he m.uft at leaft mean his British hiftory, or that from the time of the Romans ; and perhaps that defcription of Roman Britain, which we are now treating off: but what reafons were fug- gefted to him about it, we cannot guefs; and in our rcianufcript we ob- ferve it begins with p. xxii. as appears from a fcrip I dehred my friend Bertram to fend me, of the manner of the writing: therefore fome ■Other v/ork of our Richard’s was probably contained in thofe 22 pages. However thefe m.atters may have been, we muft juflly admire our au¬ thor’s great capacity, in compiling the hilfory of his country from firfl to laid, as far as he could gather it, from all the materials then to be found in all the conhderable libraries in England, and what he could iikewife find to his purpofe in foreign parts. Whetlier he found our map and manufcript in our monaftic libraries at home, or in the Vatican, or elfe- where abroad, we cannot determine: he himfeif gives us no other light in the cafe, than that it was compiled from memoirs a quodam Duce Romano conjignatisy et pojieritati relidlisy which I am perfuaded is no other than Agricola, under Domiti an. But, above all, we have reafon to congratulate ourfelves, that the pre¬ sent work of his is happily refcued from oblivion, and, moft likely, from an abfolute deftruddion. I fhall now concifely recite the hifdory of its difcovery. In the fummer of 1747, June 11, whilfd I lived at Stamford, I received a letter from Charles Julius Bertram, profeflbr of the Englifh tongue in the Royal Marine Academy of Copenhagen, a perfon unknown to me. The letter was polite, full of compliments, as ufual with foreigners, exprelTing much candor and refpedt to me; being only acquainted with fome works of mine publilhed:the letter was dated the year before; for all that time he hefitated in fending it. Soon after my receiving it, I fent a civil anfwer; which produced another letter, with a prolix and elaborate Latin epiftle inclofed, from the famous Mr. Gramm, privy-counfellor and chief librarian to his Danifh Majefdy; a learned gentleman, who had been in England, and vifited our univerfities. (Mr. Martin Folkes remembered him.) He was Mr. Bertram’s great friend and patron. I anfwered that letter, and it created a correfpondence between us. Among other matters, Mr. Bertram mentioned a manufcript, in a friend’s hands, of Richard of Weftminfter, being a hiftory of Roman Britain, which he thought a great curiofity; and an ancient map of the iiland annexed. In November, that year, the Duke of Montagu, who was pleafed to have a favor for me, drew me from a beloved retirement, where I pro- pofed to fpend the remainder of my life ; therefore wondered the more, how Mr. Bertram found me out: nor was I follicitous about Richard of Weftminffer, as he then called him, till I was prefented to St. George’s church, Queen-fquare. When I became fixed in London, 1 thought it proper to cultivate my Copenhagen correfpondence; and I received another Latin Letter from Mr. Gramm; and foon after, an account of liis death, and a print of him in profile. VoL. II. G g I I now began to think of the manufcript, and defired fome little extraft from it; then, an imitation of the hand-writing, which I fliowed to my late friend Mr. Cafley, keeper in the Cotton library, who imme¬ diately pronounced it to be 400 years old. I prelfed Mr. Bertram to get the manufcript into his hands, if pofli- ble; which at length, with fome difficulty, he accompliIhed ; and, on my follicitation, fent to me in letters a tranfcript of the whole; and at lail a copy of the map, he having an excellent hand in drawing. Upon perufal, I ferioully follicited him to print it, as the greateft treafure we now can boalf of in this kind of learning. In the mean time, I have here extracted fome account of the Treatife, for your pre- fent entertainment, as I gave it to Dr. Mead, and to my very worthy friend Mr. Gray of Colchefter, fome time palV, at their requeft. "Ricardi monachi Wejimonajierienjis commentariolum geographicuiUy de Jitu Brittanies^ et ftatmium quas in ea infula Romani aedificaverunt. Cap. I. Of the name and fituation of the ifland. Cap. II. Of the meafure. He quotes Virgil, Agrippa, Marcianus, Livy, Fabius Rufticus, Tacitus, Ptolemy, Caefar, Mela, Bede. Cap. III. Of the inhabitants; their origin: he mentions reports of Hercules coming hither. Of their manners j chiefly from Caefar’s Com¬ mentaries. Of the military of the Britons; chiefly from Caefar’s Com¬ mentaries. Cap. IV. Of the Druids authority and religion : in time of invaflon all the princes chofe a Dictator to command : chiefly from Caefar. Cap. V. Of the fertility of Britain, its metals, &c. Cap. VI. Of the divifion of the ifland into feven provinces; Britannia Prima, Secunda, Flavia, Maxima, Valentia, and Vefpafiana: thefe were all under the Roman power. Caledonia is additional to the former, being the north-weft part of Scotland, the highlands, beyond invernefs. We never had a true notion of the diviflon of thefe provinces before, nor that the Romans poflefled all the country to Invernefs. This chapter is very long : but as to the matter of it, it is an invalu¬ able curiofity to the inquirers into Roman Britain. He gives us an exa6t and copious chorography of the whole ifland; its boundaries, rivers, mountains, promontories, roads, nations, cities, and towns, in the time of the Romans. It is accompanied with an accurate map of faciei Romance^ as the author terms it. He gives us more than a hundred names of cities, roads, people, and the like ; which till now were abfolutely unknown to us : the whole is wrote with great judgement, perfpicuity, and concifenefs, as by one that was altogether mafter of his fubjedt. Vv^e have reafon to believe, he copied fome memoirs v/rote even in Roman times. Fie fpeaks of the warlike nation of the Senones, who lived in Surrey : they, under the condudl of Brennus, pafi'ed into Gaul, and over the Alpes, and befleged Rome. Romam fajiu eJatam, ifla incurjione vafatam Jolo : et Rempuhheam Romanam funditus evertijjent ; ni earn Dii ipji, more Nutricis, in finu quafi gejlare videharitur, &c. Again, fpeaking of Bath, ‘Thermae, Aquas foils quibus fontibus prae files erant Apollinis et Minervae Numina. Our author mentions no lefs than thirty-eight Roman ftations, beyond the fartheft vallum of Antoninus; and in England innumerable cities, towns, RIC HARD of Cirencefter, 115 towns, roads, &c. altogether new to us; fuch as Forum Dian<^, a city of the : Cantiopolis: Colonia gemina Martia : Fheodofia : Victoria : IJinnis Argolicum^ cities in Lincolnjhire: ad felinam: in f?iedio : ad aquas: ad alone : flatio Frajedlus : ad vigefimum fc. lapidem : Bibracle, a city not far from London : ad lapidem: addechnum: and very many more. ' He mentions Via Julia: a triumphal arch in Camulodunum : rivers, promontories, woods, mountains, lakes, bays, ports, founders of cities, things and matters not named before in any monuments come to our hands. In Cornwall^ he fpeaks of Herculis columnae^ and infula Herculea : he remarks, the country of Cornwall, abounding with metals, was for¬ merly frequented by the Phoenicians and Greeks, who fetched tin from thence; and that the local names there retain a Phoenician and Greek turn. De Caledonia^ he defcribes this highland part of Britain very particu¬ larly ; their towns, mountains, promontories, &c. he fpeaks of the report of Ulyffes coming thither, tolfed by tempefts, and facrificing on the fhorq. This is mentioned in Orpheus’s Argonautics. He fpeaks too of altars on the fea fhore, beyond Invernefs, fet up by the Romans, as marks and bounds of their dominion. Till now, Edenburgh had the honour of being thought the Fterontony or cajlra alata of the Romans; but our author removes it far away to the river Varar in Scotland. In Caledoniay though never conquered by the Romans, he gives us many names of people and towns. Cap. VII. Itinerarium Brittaniarum omnium. Our author had been upbraided, particularly by an eminent prelate, for turning his head this way, and fpending his time in ftudies of this kind; which he here apologizes for: he fhows the ufe of thefe ftudies, and the certainty of things he recounts. “ As to the certainty (fays he) of the names of people and towns “ tranfmitted to us, we can no more doubt of them, than of the being ‘‘ of other ancient nations, fuch as the Aflyrians, Parthians, Sarmatians, “ Celtiberians, &c. of the names of Judea, Italy, Gaul, Brittain, Lon- “ don, and the like, which remain to this day, the fame as formerly, “ monuments of the truth of old hiftory. “ As to the ufe (fays he) we learn hence the veracity of the holy “ Scriptures j that all mankind fprung from one root, not out of the “ earth as muftirooms: that a variety muft be fought for in all ftudies. “ Particularly, this ftudy gives us a noble inftance of the efficacy “ of the preaching of the Gofpel; which with amazing celerity quite “ beat down Paganifm, through this country, he is dcfcribing, as well as through the whole world. “ Another ufe of the ftudy, is affifting us in forming true fchemes of chronology. Then, to the point, he acquaints us, he “ drew much of his materials “ ex fragme?itis quibufdam a Duce quodam Romano conf gnatis, et pojieritati “ relidlis, fequens collegium ejl Itinerarium, additis ex Ptolemeo et aliunde “ nonnullis.” He fays, there were ninety-two eminent cities in Britain, thirty-three more famous than the reft; nine colonies of the Roman foldiers; ten cities of Latio jure dojtata-, twelve Stipendiaries. All thefe he recites particularly. \ ii6 ACCOUNT of DIAPHRAGMATA, or ITERS. He gives us the whole length and breadth of the hland in miles; and then prefents us with no lefs than nineteen Iters^ or journeys, in all man¬ ner of diredlions, quite acrofs the ifland ; the names of places, and di- ftances between j in the manner of that celebrated antique monument, called Antoninus’s Itinerary. Very many of the names of places here, are intirely new to us: and as to the whole, though it is unavoidable, that they mufi: in fome journeys coin¬ cide with Antoninus’s Itinerary, yet it is not in the lead: copied from thence: nay, our author never faw that monument: on the contrary, his Iters are ail didindf things j more correft and particular, and much better con¬ duced than the others, and likewife fuller: they exceedingly adid: us in correCing that work, on which the learned have from time to time be¬ llowed fo much pains. It is very obvious, that this mud be of an extraordinary ufe and cer¬ tainty in fixing places, and their names, in our Brittania Romana : which hitherto, for the mod part, was done by guefs-work, and etymology, and criticifm. Cap. VIII. De infulis Brittanicis. He begins with Ireland ; and befides a map of it along with that of Britain, he gives an accurate defcription of the country, people, rivers, promontories, divifions, manners, menfuration; the fertility of tlie land, origin of the inhabitants, A very exaC chorography of the nations and cities : Then of the other idands, Hebudes, Orcades, Thule, Wyght, and • many more. ' L I B E R II. The chronological part of the work j which does not appear to have been taken from other authors now known : it chiedy handles the chro¬ nology of Britain, and its hidory, in matters not mentioned in other chronologies. All the imperial expeditions hither, thofe of legates, propraetors, in their fuccefiive order ; the taking of particular cities; the moving off of Britidi people into Ireland ; the building of the walls j the Romans abandoning Vejpafiana province 3 the perfecutions of the chridians. The pad'age of the Scots from Ireland. I need add no more, than, if Camden and Burton, Gale and Hordey, had had Richard of Cirenceder’s work, there had been nothing left for others to do in this argument. A very lively proof of the Romans conquering Scotland by Agricola in Martial’s epigram, Nuda Caledonia dum pedlcra prcebuit Urfo Non JiBa pendens in cruce Laureolus. Domitian was extravagantly fond of exhibitions in the amphitheatre: Martial’s I. Lib. intirely taken up therewith ; nothing more engaging the emperor’s vanity, than for Agricola to fend him fome bears from Scotland, for his diows. Cap. II. An elenchus of the Roman emperors and legates commanding in Britain. The end is wanting. II. On RICHAED of Cirencejler, See. 117 11 . ON T 11 E MAP of BRITTANIA EOMANA O F RICHARD of CIRENCESTER. A. D. 1338. Read at the Antiquarian Society, April 8, 1756. A t firft fight, this map appears very extrordinary j but when I came to compare it with thofe of Britain, in Ptolemy, and other old geographers, I was much furprifed to find how far it exceeds them: that in the oldeft editions of Ptolemy is very mean, and efpecially erroneous, in turning all the major part of Scotland toward the eaft, inftead of the north. Printed at Ulm, 1482. I have Schottus’s edition at Argenfon, I5i3> with Mirandula’s tranf- lation. Alfo another edition, 1540, at Bafil, by Munfter: but the map of Britain and Ireland, in all, poor and jejune. The defeription in Ptolemy is compofed from two feparate pieces; one, a map of all the country north of Cona, or of the proetentura in Scotland, which Agricola made: this, I fay, when they came to join it to the map of the reft of the ifland, they placed it eaftward, inftead of northward j and from this erroneous map Ptolemy compofed his deferip¬ tion of Britain. This map, in other refpects, is very empty and incor¬ rect : our author himfelf finds fault with it. Mercator afterwards made his map for the next edition of Ptolemy, fomewhat improved; but the northern part, or that of Scotland, ftill aukwardly bent toward the eaft. Confequent to this, Ortelius his map is much improved; the northern part placed properly : yet in an unfeemly manner, as well as out of the rules of geography, he turns the weftern fide of Britain and Ireland up¬ ward in the plan, inftead of the northern, agreeable to our prefent geo¬ graphical charts. Next follows our Richard of Cirencefter’s map, which exceeds them all, beyond compare ; and the more we confider it, the more we approve : it is only equalled by his written defeription, or chorography of Britain j but he turned his map with the eaft fide uppermoft, inftead of the north. We eafily difeern, how far it is preferred to the Brittania Rojnana of the excellent Mr. Camden, v/hofe judgement and diligence we have reafon to admire. There are in Brittain, fays our author, cities of greater eminence XCIL of greateft XXXIII. I give the modern names. Municipia II. Verolamurn^ Verlam cejler, St. Al- Eboracum^ York 5 olim Colonia, legio ban’s. Sex fa. VoL. II. H h Colonies ACCOUNT of 1 18 Colonies IX. Londinium Augujia, London. Camulodunum : legio gemina Martia XIV. Colchefter. Rhutupisy Sandwich. Richborough. Lherma-, Aqua Svlis, Batli. Jfca Silurum^ legio fecunda, Augufa, Britannica, Caerleon, Wales. Deva, legio Cretica, xx. v. v. Well Chefter. Glevum, legio Claudia, vii. Glou- cefter. Lindum colonia, Lincoln. Camboritum, Chefterford, Cam- bridgelhire. Civitates Latio jure donata X. Durnomagus, Cafter by Peter- Lugubalia, Carlifle. borough. Pteroton, Alata cajlra, Invernefs. CataraBon, Catteric, Yorkfhire. ViBoria, Perth. Cafnbodunum, Alkmundbury, York- Theodofia, Dunbriton. fhire. Corinium Dobunorum, Cirencefter. Coccium, Burton, north of Lan- Sorbiodunum, Old Sarum. cafter. Stipendiaria XII. Venta Silurum, Caerwent. Venta Belgarum, Wintchefter. Venta Icenorum, Cafter by Norwich. Segontium, Carnarvon. Muri dunum, Seaton, Dorfetfhire. Raga Coritanorum, Rata, Leicef- ter. Cantiopolis, Durovernum, Canter¬ bury. Durinum, Dorchefter. ]fca Dumnoniorum, Exeter. Bremenium, Ruchefter. Vindorium, Silchefter. Durobrcvis, Rochefter. This is a moft curious catalogue of matters hitherto we were ignorant of; what Britifh cities were municipia, what Roman colonies, what free of Rome, what ftipendiary. Colonies lived under the Roman laws ; municipia, under their own. Ninnius and Gildas name twenty-eight moft famous Roman cities in Britain, which the excellent archbiftiop Ulher has commented upon ; but the catalogue is quite different from ours: yet therein our author is confirmed in calling Verulam a municipium. In Ninnius it is called Caer, municip. From ours we learn, in the early time of the empire, where the Ro¬ man legions were quartered: the legio ge?nina Martia viBrix was the XIVth, lebA X.0 2X Camulodunum, Colchefter; it was left here in Claudius’s time: this legion vanquifhed Boadicia; was called out of Britain early by Vefpafian. Llere then we fee our author’s manufcript was prior to that time, viz. A. D. 70. I mean that from whence he ' extradfed his work; the original manufcript: for we are to underftand of it, as we do of that called Antonini Itinerarium, that it was a parch¬ ment roll made for the ufe of the emperor and his generals ; which being tranfmitted down from one general to another, and frequently copied and tranfcribed, received from time to time feveral additions and interpolations of cities new built; and likewife others ftruck out, which were then in ruins. The legio Claudia, quartered at Gloucefter, was the Vllth Aug. This legion came over into Britain with Julius Caefar; he calls it veterrima legio ; it was named Claudia from the emperor, and called pia Jidelis by the I RICHARD of Cirencejier, 8zc, iig the Roman fenate. Hence Gloucefter was called Claudio ceflria., from its refidence here : and that it refided here, we learn from our author, who fays he has it from writers of moft ancient Roman times. It re¬ mained here in Caraufius’s time. The legio Cretica, quartered at Weftchefter, was the XX. V. V. they were in Britain in Nero’s time 5 fettled here by Agricola, A. D. 84. From our author only, we learn this title of Cretica, as having been originally levied in Crete. This was here in Caraufius’s time. Legio II. Aug. quartered at Caerleon in Wales, came into Britain in the reign of Claudius, under the command of Vefpafian. This legion was flationed at Canterbury in fome later times, according to our au¬ thor, C. VI. whence we gather, he compiled his work out of old writers of different ages. The Icgio VI. came into Britain with Hadrian, fettled at York ; by Mr. Gale thought to be called Gordiana. York was made a colony of that legion. Antoninus Pius made it a municipium, and continued this legion there : it was concerned in perfefting the Carfdike navigation to Peterborough. Thefe legions are all mentioned in our author. Before the time that Vefpafian was emperor, Jofephus relates. Bell. jud.W. 16. that king Agrippa, in his fpeech to the Jews, in Nero’s time, and before that emperor called the XIVth legion from Britain, fpeaks of four legions then in Britain. I have this further to add, in relation to our map: when I began to confider it with that attention which it deferves, I was a little furprifed to fee the river Trent, inftead of falling northward into the Humber, to be carried eaftward through Lincolnfhire, into the Eaft fea. I prefently fufpedfed, this was owing to the artificial cut of the Romans, called Fofsdike, part of the Carfdike; which Fofsdike is drawn from Torkfey at the Trent, to Lincoln : there it meets the river Witham coming from the fouth, and proceeds eaftward toward Bofton. Ever fince I was capable of obfervation, I often took notice, that the whole flat, or fenny country of Lincolnfhire, has a gentle declivity, or natural defcent eaftward. This is owing not only to the fea lying that way, but is the cafe of all levels in the whole globe : the caufe muft be afferted to be the earth’s rotation upon its axis ■, which obfervation I printed, long fince, in my Itinerarium Curiofum. It is a principle in nature, that, when a globe is turned on its axis, the matter on the furface flies the contrary way to its motion. The philofophers call this improperly a conatus recedendi ah axe motus : it is not owing to an endeavour of matter to fly the contrary way, but to the innate inactivity of matter that refifts the motion i does not readily follow it. But it is evident from hence, that the earth, receiving its motion before the furface was perfectly confolidated, the moiftifh matter would be left weftward, as far as it could be, and produce an extended and gentle declivity on the eaft j and at the fame time, by ftiffening, would render the weft fide of all hills fteep. This is a faCt throughout the whole globe. Hence it is, that all plains and levels have naturally their defcent towards the eaft ; and hence it is, that the river of Witham, from Grantham fide, running northward to Lincoln, readily takes its courfe thence eaftward, to meet the ocean over he fenny level. The 120 ACCOUNT of The Romans, when they made the artificial canal, the Carfdike, from Peterborough along the edge of the Lincolnfhire fens, introduced it into the river Witham, three miles below Lincoln. The purpofe of this artificial cut was, to convey corn in boats, from the fouthern parts of England, to the northern pr(Ete7iturds in Scotland for maintenance of the forces kept there: therefore the canal, entering the Witham, paffed through Lincoln, and then was continued by another artificial cut, called the Fofsdike, from Lincoln to Torkfey, where it enters the Trent, in order to go down the dream to the Humber : from thence the fleet of corn-boats pafled up the river Oufe to York, by force of the tide; for fo high will the tide carry them; which was the reafon of building the city there. After this Fofsdike, between the Trent and Witham rivers, was made by the Romans, it is eafy to imagine, that the extenfive river of Trent, which runs altogether northwards, would very readily, upon great floods, difcharge part thereof into the Fofsdike j for there is a defcent that way, as being to the eaft: and this might be the occafion of the geography in our map, miftaking the Fofsdike, and the continuation of the Witham, for that of the Trent. The river Witham, from Lincoln, goes fouth-eafl; into the fea, by Bofton j and it feems to me, that in very early times it might (at leaft in great floods) have another channel running over the Eaft fen (as called) along that natural declivity, full eaft, into the fea, as in the map of Richard of Cirencefter. This channel might pafs out of the prefent river of Witham a little below Coninglby, where the river Bane falls into it, at Dockdike and Youldale, by the water of Hobridge, north of Hundle-houfe ; fo run¬ ning below Middleholm to Blackfike, it took the prefent divifion between the two wapentakes, all along the fouth fides of the deeps of the Eaft fen ; and fo by Blackgote to Wainfleet, the Vainona of the Romans. My friend, John Warburton, Efq; Somerfet herald, has fome manu- fcripts of our Lincolnfliire antiquary, fome years ago, Mr. De la Pryme, who was perfectly acquainted with that part of Lincolnfhire, and therein difcovers fome fufpicions of the Trent running toward Lincoln in antient days; but I think, all we can certainly conclude from our map is the extreme antiquity of it: as the Carfdike muft have been projected and done by Agricola, on his conqueft of Scotland, we may reafonably judge this to be in the main his map, i. e. copied from his, though with fome additions by our author. This consideration, duly attended to, fliows the antiquity of the Fofs¬ dike, and Carfdike, and of our map. We are told in the Hiftory of Caraufius, that he repaired the prceten- tura made in Scotland by Agricola, and added feven forts to it: a wife and politic prince knew the neceflity of it; and confequently infer we, that he as furely repaired the Carfdike navigation, to fupply the foldiers with corn, in that northern htuation : and I have feveral reafons to in¬ duce me to conclude, he not oiily did fo, but carried it further fouth- ward than before, viz. from Peterborough quite to Cambridge; fome of which reafons I fliall recite in the hiftory of tliat hero. At prefent I fnall only hint, that his name has ever been affixed to this famous canal, which has never been regarded by writers. It is of utmoft impor¬ tance in the knowledge of Roman antiquity; and it is an affair ot I’uch public emolument, as not to be unworthy of the notice of the legifla- ture j RICHARD of Cirencejier^ &c. I2i‘ ture ; where an inland water-carriage is made, for 200 miles in length, from Cambridge to Boroughbridge. The Roman provinces, as we find them in our map, are tnefe. Maxima Cafarienjis^ or Brittania fuperior-, chiefly the country of the Brigantes, conquered by Cerealis, and fo named by him, in the begin¬ ning of Vefpafian’s reign. Valentia, all that country comprehended between the two Prosten¬ tur a's. Brittania prima, or inferior, that part of the ifiand fouth of the Thames. Brittania fecunda, being Wales. ■Fla'vid Cafarienfs, that part between the Humber and the Thames; denominated from the family-name of Velpafiaii. Vefpafana, that part of Scotland between the Varar Mjluary, or high¬ land boundary, and the northern Praetentura. Laftly, Caledonia properly, or the Highlands, which the Romans never conquered; and that part called Vefpafana, after Agricola returned, was negledled by Domitian, and recovered by the Scots; at leafl, to the firft Prcetentura : and it is from Richard of Cirencefter alone, that we have an Itinerary of it from the Vararis Mfuary, on which is the laft Roman Ration, called Alatci cafira, now Invernefs. I fhall next recite all the places, rivers, mountains, &c. fpecified in our map, the provinces they are in, and that in alphabetical order ; together with the modern names of each, according to the befi: of my knowledge; whereby the value and excellence of our manufcript will more eafily ap¬ pear j feeing fo many of them we were hitherto unacquainted withall, which I fhall mark particularly thus *, as alfo thofe wherein we are able to correfl former writers. Places mentioned in the Map. * Ahona fluAus Caledonice, Frith of Dournoch. Ahona f. Brittanies Primes Pro- neincies, Avon by Bath. Abus f. the Humber. ^ Albanii, Broad albin. Alauna, Sterling. Alpes, Valentiee Proscindes, hills of Lothiers. Alauna f. Aylemouth, North¬ umberland, Awne. * Alawta f. Maximes, Lune r. of Lancafler. Alauna, Flavi es, Aulcefier upoi> Arrow r. Warwickfnire. Alauna f. by Blandford, Dorfetfii. Antona fi. Avon, or Nen of Northampton. Antivefeeum Promontorium, Pen- ros, Cornwall. Anderida, Nevvhaven, Sufiex. Aree finium Imperii Romani, Cha- * Artavia, Tintagel, C. Cornwall. Ariconium Secundes, Kenchefter, Herefordfhire. * Attacotti, Vefpafianes Provircies, Lochabar, Atrebates, BerkOrire people. * Aques, Buchan. Banatia, Vefpafianes, by Fort- William, Lochabar. Banchorium, Banchor. Berigonium, Valenties, Dunfiafag, in Lorn. * Berigeniusfinus, by Cantyre. Belija?na Ji. Maximus Ceefarienfis, Rible r. Lancafiiire, Beno 7 ies, Highcrois, Northamp- tonihire. * Bihrax, Madanhead, Bray, Berk- fhire. Bodotria eefiuariurn. Frith of Forth. nary. VoL. 11. I i Beduni, 122 ACCOUNT of Boduni, Oxfordfhire and Glou- cefterfliire. Boleriiim prom. St. Ives, Cornwall. Bremeniunii Rochefter, North¬ umberland. Erigant es i Yorkfliire men. Brigantum extrema^ Flamborow- head, Yorkdiire. Brangonium, Flavice ProvincicSi Worcelrer. * Caledonics extrema^ Caledonia, Dungfby head. Caledonii, Invernefs county. Caleb a Attrebatim, Wallingford, EerkOiire. Cainbodunum, Latio jure donata, Alkmonbiiry. Camboritum colojiia, Chefterford, Cambiiclgeuiire. Camulodunum colonia, Colchefler, legio gemina martia XIV. o Ci ^ Cambola Ji. Pacftow haven. Corn- wallj Camelford. Ca?ita, Kent. Cantiopolis, Prima, Canterbury j jlipendiaria. Ca?iganus fmm, by Harley, Me- rionid Glire. Canta, Cromarty. Candida cafa, f. Lucopibia, V/hit- hern. Carronaca, Strathnavern, Car- novaca. Carnahii, Sutherland. Carbafiticum, Kirkcubright, Treefcadle on Dee r. * Carnabii, Flavia, Cheiliire and Staifordfhire. Cajjii, Middiefex. Caffiierides inf. Scilly idands. Cataradhn, Maxima, Catteric, iforkdiire; Latio jure donata. * Cattlni, Cathnefs. Caima inf. Sliepcy ille. Celnhis fi. Davern r. Ccnia, Tregeny, Falmouth. Genius fi. Tregeny, Cornwall } Falmouth haven. Cenomani, Huiitingdonfiiire, Cambridge, Suffolk. Cerenes, Invernefs county. * Cimbri, Prima, Somerfetlhire, Claufentum, Southampton. Clota infula, Vefpajiana, Arran ifle. ^ Clita fi. Secimda, Clvyd r. St. Afaph. Clotta afiuarium, Valentia, Cluyd fryth. Cluda fi. Cluyd r. Coccium, Burton n. of Lancafler Latio jure do 7 iata. Colanica, Valentia, Peblis. Cenovius fi. Conovy r. Aber- conway. Coria, Carftownlaw in Lothian. Corinium Dobunorum, Cirencefter. Coritani, Leicefterfliire, Lin- colnfbire. ^ Corium, Corsford in Cluydfdale. * Creones, Rofs. * Danniii, Valentia, Lorn. Damnii, Vefpajiana, Argylefhire. Damnonii, Prima, Somerfetfhire. ^ Dena fi. Cree r. by Withern. Derventio fi. Maxima, in Cum¬ berland. Derbentio, Little Cheftcr by Derby. Deva fi. Dee r. by Kirkcubright. Deva colon, leg. cretica XX. V. V. Flavia, Dee r. W. Chefter. Deva fi. Dee r. of Aberdeen. ^ Dimeti, Secunda, Cardiganfhire. * Durius fi. Dart r. Devonfhire. Durinum, Dorchefter, Dorfet- ihire. Durobris, Rochefter. Dubris, Dover. * Durnomagus, Cafter by Peter¬ borough ; Latio jure donatus. Lboracum, municipium, York, formerly a colony of leg. VI. Fhuda inf. Caledonia, Hebrid idands. ^ Epidia inf. fuperior, Vefpajiana, Northvift. ijif. inferior, South- vift. ^ Epidii, Cantyre. * Epiacum, Maxima, Chefter in the Street. ^ Eiocetum, Flaxia, Wall by Litch¬ field. Forum RICHARD of Cirencefter, &c. * 'Ferum Diana^ Market ftreet, by Duiiltable. ^ Fretum Menevicumy SecundrSy Cardigan bay. Gadeniy Valeiitii^y in Northum¬ berland. * Galgacumy MaximeSy Lanchefter, Durham county. Gar ion ji. GarienuSy Yare, vehx. Glevum Flavia, Gloceft. colo 7 iia leg. Claud. VII. Gobanuimy Secunda, Aberga¬ venny. Grampius m. Vejpajiajta, Grants- bein. * Halengum, Hailfton, Cornwall. * Heduiy Somerfetfliire. ^ Helenum projn. Berry point, De- vonfhire. Hereclea inf. Prima, Lundy ifle. Herculis prom. Hertford point, Devonfhire. ^ Heriri 7 n. m. Secunda, Wales. Horejiiiy Vefpafiana, Fife. Icejiiiy Flavia, Rutlandlhire. Idumanus ji. by Chelmsford. Ilajl. Caledo 7 iiay Ale r. Ifca ji. Prima, Ex by Exeter. Ifca Dumnonicrum, Exeter. Jfca colon. Siluru 7 ny leg. Secunda, Aug. Caerleon. Jfca ji. Dike r. Monmouthfhire. ifurium BriganUum, Maxima, Aldwark by Burrow-bridge. Jtuna ji. Vefpafiana, Ythan r. * Jtuna afl. Vale 7 itia, Eden. ^ Kpia prom. Pl’ima, Ram- head. Ldanonhis fnus, Vefpafiana, Loch luven. Lemanus, Prhna, Limne, Portus. Lemana f^. Lime water. * Lincalidor lacus. Loch lomund, * Lindum, Dunblain. Lindum colon. Lincoln. ■* Logi, Sutherland. Londiniu 77 i Aug. Flavia, London; colonia. * Longus ji. Loch loch. * Loxa fi. Caledon. Frith of Cro- martle. ^ Lucopibia, f candida cafa, Va¬ lentia, Whitehern. Lugubalia, Maxima, Carlide. * Luanticum, Secimda, Cardigan. Magna, old Radnor. Maleos inf. Mull iOe. ^ Mare Orcadum, Pentland fryth. * Mare Thule, Caledon, the North- Britifh fea. Mediolanum, Secunda, Myved, Montgomery {hire. * Me 7 iapia, St. David’s South Wales. * Menapia inf. Ramfey ifle. Merta, Murray. * Merfeja ji. Merfey r. Chelhire. Metaris afi. Flavia, Bofton deeps, Wafhes, Lincolnlhire. Mona inf Anglefey in North Wales. * Monada inf. Ifle of Man. ^ Morini, Somerfet and Dorfet- fliire. Moricambe JI. Maxima, Decker r. Lancafhire. ^ Muridunim, Prima, Columb, Cornwall. Muridunim, Caermartben, South Wales. Nahiusfi. Caledon Navern. Nidus fi. Nith. r. Nithifdale. ^ Nidus fi. Secunda, Neath r. Gla- morg. Novanta, Valentia, Weff Gal¬ way. ^ Noviomagus, Prima, Croydon. * Ocea72us Deiicalidon, Weftern Bri- tifli fea. * Ocetis iif. Caledon, Strom, ifle. Ocrinum m. Prima, Penryn, Cornwall. Odlurupium prom. Secunda, Bi- fhop and Clerks, Pembroke- Eiire. ^ Ohcana, Maxima, Wetherby on Wherfe. Orcas prom. Caledon. Fano head. Or re a. ACCOUNT of 124 •tr Qrrea^ VefpafiancEy Perth, St. JolinPon. * O/ys ft. Loch Soil, Lochaber. Oxelhim pro?n. Spurn head, York- fliire. Parlfift Holdernefs, Yorkfliire. Pennma ra. m. Maxima,, the Peaks. * Penoxullum pronia Terbaetnefs, in Rofs. * Petuarium, Brough on the Hum¬ ber. Pomona inf. Caledon. Mainland hie Orkneys. ^ Portus j'celix, Bridlington bay. Pteroton, alata cafra^ vernefs. Raga, F.avia, Rata Coritanorum, Leicefter. * Regnunii Chichefter. Sabrina af. Prima ^ Severn. * Salina, Flavia, Droitwich, Wor- cefterfhire. ^ Salina, town of Saltwarp, river Saltwarp, Droitwich a branch of the Severn. Segontiaci, about Silcheiler, Hamplhire. Segontium, Secunda, Caernarvon. Selgova, Valentia, Annandale, Solway frith. Silures, Herefordfliire. * Silva Caledon. Caledonia, Stetadel foreil, Sutherland. * Silva Caledonia, Rockingham foreft. ^ Siftuntii, Maxima, Lancalliire. Scrbiodunum, Old Sarum. * Strabo jl. Ouder gill r. Rofs. Stiiccia JL Rhydel r. by Abery- hwth, S. Wales. ^ Sturius jl. Stour, r. by Sudbury, Eliex. Faixalorum, prom. Buchan nefs, Famara, by Taviftoke upon Ta¬ mar r. T amarus ft. Tamar r, Devon- fhire. * Famea, Brumclieft by Blair. Favus aft. Tay frith. Favus jl. Tay r. by Perth. * Febiusjl. Tewy r. by Carmarthen. ^ Fermoium, Prima, South Moiton, Devonlhire. * Fexalum, Caftle in Mearns. Fhamefs jl. Thames r. Fhanatos inf. Thanet ide. * Fheodofta Vefpajiana, Dunbriton. * Fherma colon. Bath; Aqua Solis, Fbule inf. Caledon. Iceland. Finn fl. by Montrofe. ^ Fifa ft. Maxim. Tees r. York- fiiire. * Fobius fl. Secund. now Chymny, by Cardiff. Frinobantes, Middlefex. Frifanton fl. Newhaven, Suffex. * Frivona fl. Flav. Trent r. Fuajjis, upon Spay r. ^ Fuerbiusfl. Tyvy r. by Cardi¬ gan. Vacomagi, Vefpafiana, Athol. * Vaga fl. Secunda, the Wye r. Plerefordfhire. Vallum Severi, the Wall of Seve¬ rus^ * Vanduaria, Krawford in Cluydf- dale. Varar aftuar. Frith of Murray. Vedia inf Wight ifland. * Vediuriones, Angus people. Vedrafl. Weremouth. Venta Icenorum, Cafter by Nor¬ wich. Venta Belgarum, Winchefler. Venta Silurum, Caerv/ent, Mon- mouthfhire. * Venta, Wimborn minJfer, Dor- fetfhire. Verolanium, Verlamceffer, St. Alban’s ; municipium. Vervedriim pr. Caledon. Nefs head. Vidtoria, Airdoch, * Vidogara fl. Valentia, Ayr. r. in Kyle. VindonmUi Silchefler, Berkfhire. Vindelis prom. Portland ide, Dor- fetfhire. * Vimvitm RICHARD of Cirencejier, &c. 125 Vimvium^ Piers bridge, Ovyn- ford. Virubrium prom, the Ord head, Scotland. Volfas Jinus^ Loch breyn in Rofs. Voluba, Grampound, Cornwall. * Voluntii, Maxima, Amunder nefs hundred, Lancafliire. XJriconium, Flavia, Wroxeter, Shropihire. ^ Uxella, Barton oil the Fofs road, Somerfetfhire. Uxella fl. Prima, by Giaftonbury, Somerfetlliire. Uxella m. hills of Lothlers, Ciu^ ydfdale. Uxellum, Dumfrys in Nithfdale. Uxcllum, rightly placed by Bax¬ ter, the r. Nyth, Nithifdale, or Dumfries. Thus I have recounted the names of places contained in this excellent map, to the number of 250 ; whereof 100, marked in this catalogue thus^, are wholly new, or ill-placed by former writers. The reader verfed in thefe kind of inquiries, will find no fmall number of them ; to his judgement 1 leave them: as to me, the finding fault with others endeavours is very difagreeable. This I may fay; it fets us right in abundance, wherein before we had no guide but conjefture, from fimili- tude of names: as, for inftance, Uxella, placed in fome great authors at Lejiwthiel, Cornwall, is in SomerfetJJjire, viz. at Barton, where the Ro¬ man road called Fofs croffes the river, a little north of Ilchefter. Many more might be fpecified, where only a map can properly dire6l us. I muft take notice of another ufe in our map. In the province of Brittania Prima are two Venta's ; but till now we could not afcertain them both: the map fliows us, one is Whnborn minjler, the other Win- chejler : the former is on the vvjqv Alauna, feen plainly in Blandford, being the ford over the Alauna ; Llaunford, in the Belgic pronun¬ ciation ; called now Allen river. Our author calls Canterbury, Can- iiopolis, though before we knew no other name it had than Diiro- vernum : but the modern name of Canterbury feems derived from the former ; and the termination favours our author’s obfervation, in another part of his hiftory, of remains of Greek traders preferved in fome places ; of which feveral more inftances may be given. I extend my inquiries here, on Richard of Cirencefter’s map, no fur¬ ther than our ifiand of Britain; leaving that of Ireland to thofe that have proper opportunities. Nor fhall I pretend to affign places in Scotland, any further than the map dire^fs me; but leave them too to thofe that have proper oppor¬ tunities of inquiry, in that kingdom. III. L et us now proceed to his Itinerary ; a truly invaluable monument! From thefe two we may hope to obtain a complete knowledge of Roman Britain. CAPUT VII. Our author calls thefe, Iters of his Diaphragmata, from their fimili- tude to the animal midriff, paffing through the body from fide to fide. Rhutupis colonia. Sandwich, Richborough and Stonar caflle, Kent, is the firft city, fays our author, in the ifiand of Britain, towards Gaul; VoL. II. K k fituate 126 ACCOUNT of fituate among the Cantii^ oppofite to Gejjoriagumy the port of Bononia^ Boloign. Hence is the moil commodious paiiage of ccccl. Jladiay or, as others will have it, xlvi. miles. From that city RLutupium, fays he, is diawn the Roman way called Guithlin-ilreet, quite to Sego?itium, Caernaivon, through the I'pace of cccxxiv. miles, or thereabouts. Thus, To CantiopoliSy which is ail’o called Durobernumy Jlipendiariay Can¬ terbury, Kent, X miles. Durofevu?/! xii. Sittingburn, Kent. XXV. Dur'prry^oisy fiipendiariay Rocheiler, Kent. Thence, at xxvji. miles, it pafles the Thames, and enters the province Fleroidy and the city of Londimuin Augujlay London. Thence IX. To SuUoniagisy Suellamacisy Edgeware, Middlefex. XII. Verolamluniy muniuplumy Verlamceiler, or St. Alban’s. Of this place were Amphibalus and Albanus, martyrs. XII. Forum Bianay Market ilreet, near Dunilable, flertfordiliire. XII. Magioviniuniy Dunilable, Bedfordiliire. XII. Ladlcrodumy Stoney Stratford, Bucks. XII. IJannavaria, Ifantaiaria, Towceilei’, Northamptcniliire. XII. Fripontiimiy Dowbridge, Stanford, Northamptoniliire. IX. Baionisy Highcrofs, Clevceiler, between Warwickfhire and Leiceller- fniie. Heie the road is divided : the one branch, the Fv fs, goes to Lin¬ coln 3 the other to Viriconiumy Wroxetcr, from Fripontium. XII. To MmdueJJ'ediimy Manceller, near Atherilon, Warwickfhire. XIII. Eiocetum Wall, by Litchfield, Chellerlield wall, StafFordfhire. XII. Bennccruciumy by Penkridge, Staffordiliire. XIL Uxoccfiiumy Okenyate, Shropfhire. XL V.rlocon'tumy Wroxceilcr, Salop. XXVI. Baijchoriumy Bomuwy Banchor, klintihire. X. Deva colonia, leg. vlcef. vidlrix Creticay WeRchefter; the border of Flavia and Secunda provinces. XXX.. VariSy Bodvary by Denbigh on r. Clwyd. XX. RICHARD of Cirencejier, &c. 127 XX. 'Conovium, Aberconway, Carnarvon fhire. XXIV. Seguntiuniy Jlipendiaria^ Caernarvon. Were I to recite all I have written upon this work, by way of com¬ ment, it would amount to a large volume ; yet fome few remaiks I muft make. V/hat all others call Durokfium cur author names Durofe'viim, which I affix to Sittingburn, favouring this reading : the diftance conformable. Sulloniacisy or rather Suellafiiacisy has its name from Suellany or Ca/Ji- belin, who fought Csefar. I place it at Edgware, which has its name from the aggtVy or high raifed Roman w^ay, Watling-ftreet. Here was Caf- fibelin's ufual refidence: his oppidum^ or military town, which Ctefar ftormed, was at Watford. Forum Diana, a new name, was crouded into the roll of the original Itinerary, where the intermediate diftance, xii. miles, between St. Alban’s and Dunftable, remained unaltered: therefore the tranfcriber repeated the fame diftance erroneoully. I doubt not, the place is what we now call Market-ftreet, a little on this fide Dunftable, upon the great road Watling-ftreet. Here was a fane, and forum, or portico, facred to Diana; where a panegyre, or fair, as we call it, was annually celebrated, to the honour of the goddefs, by the lovers of hunting, on the great feftival facred to her, when ftags were facrificed : this was upon Auguft 13, the hunters’day, in the Roman kalendar. I have no need to be afhamed in acknowledging an error incurred in my juvenile travels, wffien we knew nothing of this work of our au¬ thor’s ; for now I apprehend Durocobrivis is another name of a town near this place : the modern name of Redburn proves it, which means the fame as Durocobrivis, the paftage over the Redwater brook. Rotten row, Rowend, Flamjled by Forum Diana, names importing high antiquity: Rotten 7 ~ow, juft by Bremenium, Ruchefter; again at Dor- chcfter, Oxfordfhire : they relate to panegyres, or fairs. Manduefjedum, Mancefter, on each fide the Watling-ftreet, was walled about. The vefligia of Benonis are at Claybrook. Thus we have the whole length of the Watling-ftreet, from Dover to Caernarvon. ITER II. A Segontio, Caernarvon, Viricconium, Wroxcefter, ufque lxxiii. miles, thus. Segontium, fiipendiaria, Caernarvon, Cariiarvonfhire. XXV. Herirus mons, Raranvaur hill by Bala, Merionethftiire, by Pimblemere. XXV. Mediolanum, Myvod, on Merway r. Montgomeryftiire. XII. Rutunium, Rowton caftle; Stanford, Watlelborough, weft of Shrewf- bury. XI. ACCOUNT of XT. Virioconium^ Wroxcefter on the Severn, below Shrewfbury, tinder Wrekin hill. Caernarvon ftands on the river Seint, Seknt^ Segonf^ faid to have been built by Conftantine the Great. Nennius gives it the name Kaer Kulie?iidh^ for that realbn : he probably made the Fia Hekniana^ in ho¬ nour of his mother, called Sarn Helen. Heririis mons has its name from the eagles inhabiting the place, Celtic. , ITER III. From Londinimfiy London, to Lindum colonia. Lincoln, thus, Londinium Aug. London. XII. Durofitum^ Romford, Effex. XVL CafaromaguSi Chelmsford, ElTex. XV. Canonium^ Kelvedon, Effex. IX. Camulodunum colonia-, leg. gem. Mart. Vidlrix, Cokhefler, Effex. VI. Ad Sturium amnem, ad Anfam, Stretford flreet, Suffolk. XV. Comhretonium, Bretenham, Stow, Combe, Suffolk. XXII. Sitomagus, Thetford, Norfolk. XXIIL Venta Cenomanorum, Jlipendiaria, Caffer by Norwich, Norfolk. XXVII. Icianis, Ixworth, Suffolk. XX. Camloritum, colonia, Cheflerford, Cambridgefhire. XX. Durofponte, Godmanchefter, Huntingdonfhire. XX." Lurnomagus, Latio jure donatus, Bormanceffer, Caller by Peter¬ borough, Northamptonfhire. XX. Caufernis, Ccrijennis, Stanfield by Bourn, Llncolnfhire. XX. Lindum colonia, Lincoln. Iter VL of Antoninus, a Londinio Lindum, goes quite a different way from this ; the one to the right, the other to the left of the flraitefl way, the Hermen-frreet. Inflead of our Durnomagus on the northern, he rnen- lions Durokrivis, Cheflerton, on the fouthern bank of the river Nen, a walled city : a bridge over the river, built fince the time of our Itine¬ rary. And alfo From Camboritum to Durofponte, in this Iter of ours, and Vth of Antoninus, I coliedl, the Roman city of Cambridge, Cranta, was not then in being, I fuppofe, it was founded by Caraufius, when he carried the Carf- dike from Peterborough to Cambridge, and made the road over Gogma- gog RICHARD of Cirence/ier, Szc. 129 gog hill from Duroftpotitei Godmaiichefler, to Camulodunum colonia^ Colchefter; for all thefe Itineraries were made before Caraufius’s time. ITER IV. From Lindum, Lincoln, to the Vallum, the Roman wall, thus. Lindu?n colonia, Lincoln. XIV. Argolicum, Littleborough on Trent, Nottinghamfhire. XX. Danum, Doncafter, Yorkfhire, \ou enter Maxima Ccefarienjis. XVI. Legolium, Caftreford, Yorkfliire. XXL Eboracian mufiicipium, fo’^merly colonia, leg. vi. AiBrix, York, XVI. Jfurium, Aldborough by Boroughbridge, Yorkfhire. XXIV. Qataradio 7 iium, Latio jure do 7 mt. Cateric, Yorkfhire. X. Ad Lifam amne 7 n, Piersbridge, Durham county. - XII. Vinovium, Binchefler, Durham county. XIX. Epiacum, Chefler in the ftreet, Durham county. IX. Ad Muru 7 n, Newcaftle, Northumberland. XXV. Ad Alaunam, jlu. Alnwick, Northumberland. XXX. Ad Lueda 7 n jiu. Berwick, Scotland. LXX. Ad Vallum, Falkirk, Scotland. ITER V. From the Vallim, Falkirk, to Pratuarium, Patrinton. Vallu 7 n, Antonini, Falkirk, Scotland. • • • • Corium, on the Watling-ftreet, Romanhow, Korflonlaw. • • • • Ad Lines, Rochefter on the river Tyne in Redefdale. • • • • Brememum, Jlipeiidiaria, Ruchefler, upon Watling ftreet. XX. Corjioplium, Corbridge, Northumberland. IX. Vindomora, Ebchefter upon Dervent river, Durham county. XIX. Vimviu 7 n, Binchefler, Durham county. XXII. Qataradtomum, Latio jure donatum, Cateric, Yorkfhire. XL. Ehoracu 777 , leg. vi. ViBrix, York. VoL. IL LI VIE 130 ACCOUNT of VII. DerventiOi Stanford bridge, Yorkfhire XIIL Delgovicia^ Wighton, Yorkfhire. XXV. Prceiuariumy Patrinton, Yorkfliire. ITER VI. From Eboracum, York, to Deva, Chefter. Eboracum, municipium, formerly a colony of legio vi. ‘viSlrix, York. IX. Calcaria, Tadcalfer, Yorkfhire. XXIL Camhodunum, Latio jure do’natum, Alkmanbury, Yorkfliire. XVill. Maucunium, Mancaftle by Manchefter, Lancafliire. XVlII. Ad Fines, between Maxhna and Flavia, Stretford on Merfey, Che- fliire. XVIII. Co7idate, Northwich, Chefhire. * XVIII. Deva, colojiia, legio Cretica, vicefrma, Valeria, viBrix, Well Chefler. ITER VII. From the port of tht Sifluntii, Lune river mouth, to Eboracmn, York. Portus Sijiuntiorum, Lune river mouth, by Lancafter. xxni. Rerigonium, Ribcefter on the Rible, Lancafliire. VIII. Alpes Pennini, Pendleton by Pendlehill, Lancafliire. X. Alicana, Shipton in Craven, Yorkfliire. XIX. Ifurium Brigantum, Brigantium, Aldborough by Burrough bridge. XVI. Eboracum, municipium, formerly colonia leg. vi. viBrix. T his is the firfl: Iter of Antoninus, which is deficient in our three firfl: ftations; which are thofe between the two Protentura' %, therefore at that time out of the polfeffion of the Romans. V'/e learn hence, York was a colony city of the vith legion, built by them in the time of Hadrian, who probably then made, or finiflied, the artificial canal called Carjdike, when he made the vallum. ITER VIII. From Eboracum, York, to Lugubalia, Carlifle. Eboracum, formerly colonia, legio vi. mimicipiutn, York. XL. CataraBum, Cateric, Thornburgh, Latio jure donata. XVIII. Latards, Lavairis, Bovres, Yorkfliire. XIIL RICHARD of Cirenc^eVy &c. 131 XIIL Vatarh^ Verteris^ Brough on Stanmore, Weftmorland. XX. Brocovo7iaciSi Brocavuniy Brovonacis^ Whitley caftle, Browham, Weh- morland. XIII. Voreday Caftle Voran on the Wall, Cumberland. XIII. Luguvaliay Carlifte, Latio jure donata. ITER IX. From Lugubalia, Carlifte, to PterotonCy Invernefs. Luguvaliay Carlifte, Latio jure donata. Lrimantiimiy Cannaby, by Longtown, Netherby, Langhoom caftle. • o • • Gada7iicay Colanicay Colecefter. • • • • ^ Coriuniy Corsford by Lanerk. • • • • Ad Vallumy Falkirk. XII. Alaunuy Sterling, on Alon river. IX. Lhidumy Cromlin caftle. IX. ViSioriay Kinkel upon Erne r. Latio jure donata. IX. Hiernay Perth, on Terne river. XIV. Orreay Dunkeld. XIX. Ad Lavuniy Brumchefter, on Tay frith. XXIII. Ad JEficamy Brechin, on S. Elk river. VIII. Ad Linaniy Eftilie, on N. Efk. XXIII. Dev ana y Aberdeen. XXIV. Ad Itunaniy Fyvie. Ad inontem Grampium. • • • • Ad Selinamy Celnius ji. on Devern river. XIX. LuceJJisy Rothes, on the Spay. XXVII. ' Pterotoney Alata cajlray Invernefs, Latio jure donata^ ITER X. From the boundary PterotoUy Invernefs, through the length of the iftand, to IJca Dumnoniorunty Exeter. Pterotony Alata cajiruy Latio jure donatay Invernefs. IX. 132 ACCOUNT of IX. Varh^ in Badenec on Findern river. XVIIL TuaJfiSi Ruthvan on Spay. XXIX. I’afnea, Caftleton on Calder, in Aberdeenihire. XX. - - - Spittle, in Glenfhire. IX. In medio^ Strumnic on Eric river. IX. Orrea^ Dunkeid. XVIII. Viltoria, Latio jure donata.^ Kinkei. XXXII. Ad Vallum Antonini., Falkirk. LXXX. Lugubalia, Latio jure donata, Carlille. XXII. Brocavonacis, Penrith, Browham. 9 • • « Ad Alaunam, Lancafter. LXVI. Coccium, Latio jure donata. Bury and Cockley chapel, Lancafhire. XVIII. Mancunium, Mancaftle by Manchefter. XXIII. Condate, Northwich, Chefliire. XVIII. Mediola 7 ium, Chefterton by Newcaftle, Staffordfhire. • • • « Etocetum, Wall by Litchfield. • 9 • 9 Brefjienium, Birmingham, Warwickfhire. Salmis, Droitwich, Worcefterlhire. 9 0 9 9 Branogenium, Worcefter. 9 0 9» Glebwn colonia, legio vii. Aug. Claudia, Gloucefter. XIV. Corinium Dobunorum, Latio jure donata, Cirencefter. • • « • Aquce Solis, colonia, Themnce, Bath. XVIII. Ad Aquas, Wells, Somerfedhire. Ad Vxcllarn aimiem, Balfborough, Lydford, Barton on the Fofs, Somerfetfhire. Ifca Dumnoniorum, ftipcndiaria, Exeter. This RICHARD of Cirencejtery &c, i '1 '> This Xth Iter is the only remaining monument of the Roman power in Scotland. I fhall no further attempt an alignment of the prefent names, than I am led to them by our map j but leave them to be deter¬ mined more precifely, by thofe who have an opportunity of inquiring on the fpot. ITER XL From Aqua Solisy Bath, by the Julian Rreet, to MenaptUy St. David’s. Aqua Solisy Thermay coloniuy Bath. VI. Ad Aloncy Olland near Kainfham, GloucefteiTnire. VI. Ad Sahrinaniy Auft upon Severn, Gloucefterfhire. III. Statio I’rajeStusy Tydenham or Chepftow, Gloucefterfhire. IX. Venta Siluruniy Jiipendiariay Caer Went, Monmouthfhire. IX. Ifca Siluruniy coloniay leg. vi. Aug. Caerleon, Monmouthfhire. VII. Tibia amnisy CaerdifF, Glamorganfhire. XX. Boviuniy Cowbridge, Glamorganfhire. XV. Niduniy Neath, Glamorganfhire. XV. Leucariuniy Loghor, Glamorganfhire. XX. Ad vigejimum lapideniy Narbath caftle, on Clethy river, Pembroke- fhire. XIX. Menapiay St. David’s. ITER XII. From Aqua Solisy Bath, to Londiniuniy London. Aqua Solisy coloniay Thermay Bath. XV. Verlucioy Lacock on the Avon, Wiltfhire. XX. Cunedioy Marlborough. XV. Spinisy Spene, Berkfhire. XV. Calleba Atrebatuniy Wallingford, Berkfhire. XX. BibraSley Madanhead, Bray, Bray wick, Sutton Bray, Berkfhire. XX. Londinium Aug. municipiumy London. ITER XIII. From Ifca Silurumy Caerleon, to Urioconiumy Wroxeter. Ifca Silurumy legio ii. Aug. Caerleon, Monmouthfhire. VoL. II. M m C IX. ACCOUNT of IX. Bultrum, Biirrium., Bullium , Ulk in Monmouthfiiire. XII. Gobannhmj Abergavenny. xxni. Magna, Old Radnor. XXIII. Bra7ioge7iiiim, Worcefter. XXVIII. UriconiuTH, Viroconiim, Wroxeter near Wrekin, Shropfhire. ITER XIV. From Ifca, Caerleon, by Gleviwi, Gloucefter, to Lmdu7n, Lincoln. Ifca Siluru7n, leg. ir. Aug. Caerleon, Monmouthfhire. VIII. Bullmn, Burrmn, Ulk in Monmouthfhire. XII. Blejimn, the Old town, Herefordfhire. XI. Ariconiwn, Kenchefler, by Hereford. XV. Glevum, colo7iia, leg. vii. Aug. Claudia, Gloucefter. XV. Ad Ant07ia7n, fill. Evefham, Worcefterfhire. XV. Alaima, Alcefler, Worcefterfliire. Pr^fidium, Warwick. XII. Ve7ino7iis, Cleycefter, by Highcrofs, Leiceflerfhire. XII. Rata Coritanorum, fiipe7idiaria, Leicefter. XII. Ven7i07nentum, Ratcliff and Cofmton, on Soar river, Leiceflerfhire. XII. Margidimum, Wilughby, Nottinghamfhire. XII. Ad Pontein, Bridgford, Nottinghamfhire. VII. Crococolana, Colingham, Nottinghamfhire. XII. Lindum, colo7iia, Lincoln. Vemiometiim is facra pla7iities. A vaft long tumulus here of an Arch¬ druid. Coes is a prieft; whence Cofi77gton. Radclifi' is the courfe of the annual games, to his memory. ITER XV. From Lo7idinium, London, by Ciaufentim, Southampton, to Lon- dmium again. Lo7jdinium, London. XLIV. RICHARD of drencher. See. '135 XLIV. CaMa Atrehatum, Wallingford, Berks. XV. Vindonum, Jiipendiaria, Silcheller, Hamplhire; XXI. Venta Belgarum^ Jlipendiaria^ Winchefter. VI. Ad lapidem, Manfbridge, Stoneham, Hants. IV. Claufentum, Southampton. • X. Portus Magnus, Portchefter. / X. Regnum, Chichefter. X. Ad decimum lapidem, Arundel, SufTex. X. Anderida portus, Newhaven, Suffex. XXV. Ad Lemanum, fi. Old Romney, Kent. X. Lemanus portus, Lymne, Kent. X. Dubris, Dover. X. Rhutupium, colonia, Richborough, Sandwich. X. Regulbium, Reculver. X. Cantiopolis, Jiipendiaria, Canterbury. Lurolevwn, Sittiiigburn, Kent. XII. Madum, Maidfton. XVIII. Vagniaca, Sevenoak. XVIIL Noviomagus, Croydon. XV. Londinium Aug. London. We here corredt Antoninus in the diftance between London and Novio¬ magus XV. whereas in the other it is but x. Newington is a remnant of Novantes on both fides the Thames: they firft fixed at London, called Trenevantum, being fortified by them. ITER XVI. From Londinium, London, to Cenia, Tregeny, Cornwall. Londinium Aug. London. XC. Venta Belgarum, Jiipendiaria, Winchefter. XL Brige, Broughton, Flampftiire. VIII. 136 ACCOUNT of VIII. Sorbiodunum^ Latio jure donata^ Old Sarum. XII. Ventageladia, Vindocladia^ Wimburn minfler, Dorfet. IX. Durnovaria^ Dorchefter, Dorfetiliire. XXXIII. Muridunum^ Moridunum^ Jiipendiaria^ Seaton, Devonlhire. XV. Ifca Dumno?iiorumy Jlipendiaria, Exeter. Ad Durium amnem^ Afliburton, Devon fhire. LamarUy by Saltafh, Devonfhire. Voluhuy Fowey, Cornwall. Ce?iia, Tregeny, Cornwall. ITER XVII. From Atideriduy Newhaven, to Eboracum y York. Anderiday Newhaven, SulTex. NoviomaguSy Croydon. XV. Londinium Augujlay London. XXX. Ad Fines “Trinobantes inter et Cenomanosy Roifton, Hertfordfhire. • * • • Durolifpoittey Durolipontey Durofipontey Godmanchefter. XXX. Durnomagusy Latio jure donatUy Cafter by Peterborough. XXX. Corifennisy Stow green, Stanfield, Lincolnfhire. XXX. Lhidumy cohniay Lincoln. XV. In Mediimiy Kirkton in Lindfey, Lincolnfhire. XV. Ad Abuniy Wintringham, Lincolnfhire. VI. Pecuariuy Brough, Yorkfhire. XLVI. Eboracum y York. ITER RICHARD of Cirencejiery &c. 137 ITER XVIIL From Eboracum^ Tork^ through the middle of the iiland, to Clau- fentumy Southampton. Eboracum y Y ork. XXL Legeoliumy Legioliiiniy Caftleford upon Calder, Yorklhire. XVIIL Ad JineSy Brigantes inter et CoritamSy Graveiborough by Rotherham, ' Yorklhire. X. . . . Chefterneld, Derby Hiire. X. . . , Aifreton, Derbyfhire. XVL Der’-oentionCy Little Chefter by Derby. XII. AdT'rhonamy Egginton upon Trent, Burton, Stalfordfhire. XII. Etocetumy Walls by Litchfield. XVL Manfueduniy Manduejfedumy Manceter, by Atherflon, Warwickfiiire. XII. Benonisy Cleycefter by Highcrofs, Northamptonfhire. XL E’ripontiwny Showel near Lutterworth, Leicefterfhire. XII. Ifannariuy Towcefter, Northamptonfhire. XII. Brinavisy Banbury, Oxfordfhire. XVL /Eli a cajlruy Aldcefler by Biceter, Oxfordfhire. XV. Durocinay Dorchefler, Epifcopiy Durinumy Jlipendiariay Oxfordfhire. VI. Tamefcy Stretley on Thames, by Goreing, Berks. XV. Vindonumy jlipendiariay Silchefter, Hants. XLVI. Claufentumy Southampton. Thus we have finifhed this famous Itinerary, much more large than that of Antoninus, contains many names of places not comprifed therein, and afcertains much more of the geography of Roman Britain, of Eng¬ land, and Scotland : it is ufeful to recite an alphabetical index of it, marking thofe places with an afterifc, not mentioned by former writers, or not rightly alligned to the modern names and places; and flill leaving many to the diligence and acumen of future writers. Ad Alaunamy fu. Alnwic. * Ad Aloney Aboney on Frome r. * Ad Alaunamy Lancafler, Alone. * Ad Antonamy Evefham. Ad Aquasy Wells. * Ad Abumy Wintringham. VoL. 11 . N n Ad ACCOUNT of ^ Ad JEficam. * Ad Deci?num. ^ Ad Durium aimiem. Ad Fi?ies, between Maxima and Flavia, Stretford on MeiTey. ^ Ad Fmes Frinobantes inter et Cenomaiios, Roifton. ^ Ad Fines, Brigantes inter et Coritams, Gravefborough by Rotheram. Ad Itimam. * Ad Lapidem, Stoneham. Ad Lemanum, Jiu. Old Romney. * Ad Mimum, Newcaftie. Ad Montem Grampium, Ad Fontem, Bridgford. Ad Sturium, Stretford ftreet. Ad Selinam. ^ Ad Sabrinam, Awft. Ad Fifam, Peirfebridge, York- fliire. Ad Fuedam, fu. Berwick. Ad Frivonam, Burton on Trent. * Ad Fines, Rochefler on r. Tyne, Redefdale. Ad Favum. Ad Finam. Ad Uxcllam amnem. * Ad Vigcfmiim, Narbath C. Ad Vallum Antonini, Falkirk. ^ MU a Cajlra, Alcefter by Biceter. Agelocum, Littleburgh on Trent. * Alauna, Aiceiter. Alata caftra, Pteroton, Inver- neb. -- Alpes Pennini, Pendleton. * Alicana, Shipton by Craven. Alauna, Sterling. Anderida Portus, Newhaven. Ariconium, Kenchefter. ylquee Solis, Fbcrmm, colonia, Bath. Banchorium, Bonium, Banchor. Benonis, High crofs, Clebroke. Bibradle, Madanhead and Bray. Blefium, Blefcium, Old caftle on Efcel r. Bovium, Boverton. Branogenium, vVorcefler. •:;< Bremenium, Bromicham, Mr. Baxter had knowledge of this town. Bremenium, fipendiaria, Ruche- Rer. Brige, Braga, Broughton. Brinavis, Branavis, Banbury. Brocavonacis, Brovonacis, Brow- ham. Bullium, Burrium, Bultrum, Caer- phylli C. * Cafaromagus, Chelmsford. Calcaria, Tadcafter Calleva Atrebatum. Wallingford. Cambodumim, Latio jure donata, Alkmundbury. Camboritum, colonia, Chefterford. Canonium, Kelvedon. * Cantiopolis, Durobernum, fipen¬ diaria, Canterbury. Cataradlonium, Cateric, Latio jure donata, Thornbury. Cenia, Tregeny. Claufentum, Southampton. Conovium, Aberconwey. Coccium, Latio jure donata. Bur¬ ton by Lancafter. * Combretonium, Bretenham. * Corifennls, Caufennis, Stov/, Stan¬ field. * Corium. Corfopiium, Corbridg. * Condate, Northwich. Corinium Dobunorum, Latio jure donata, Cirenceiter. Crococolana, Colingham. Camulodunum, colonia, leg. gem. mart. xiv. Colcheiter. Cunedio, Cunetio, Marlborough. Danum, Doncafter. Delgovitia, Wighton. Derventio, Stanford bridge. Derventio, Little Cheiter by Derby. Deva, colonia, W. Chefler, leg. XX. V. V. Cret. Devana, Aberdeen. Dubris, Dover. * Durnomagus, Latio jure donata., CaRer. Durnovaria, DorcheRer, Dor- fetlhire. * Durolevum, Durofevum, Sittin- burn. Duro^ 139 RICHARD of Duroprovis, Jiipe7idiaria, Roche- fter. Durolifwn^ Romford. Durovernum, Ca?2tiopciiSy fiipen-’ diaria^ Canterbury. DurofipontC) Godmunchefter. Durocina^ Durmum, jiipetidmria, Dorchefter, Epifcopi^ Oxford- fhire. Eboracum j municipium^ York, formerly col. leg. vi. Epiacum, Chefter in the ftreet. Etocctumy Wall by Litchfield. Forum DiancCy Market Rreet. Gadanica, ColanicUy Colecefter. Glebon^ colonia., Gloucefter, leg. VII. Claud. Gobannium, Abergavenny. s Herirus mons, by Bala. Hiema. Ici anis, Ix worth. In ?nedio. In medium, Kirkton, Lindfey, Lincolnfliire. Ifannavaria, Towcefter. Ifca Dumnoniorum, flipejidiaria, Exeter. Ifca S ilurum, colon, leg. ii. Aug. Caerleon. Ifurium, Aid borough. Ladlorodum, Stony Stratford. Lataris, Bowes. Legiolium, Cafterford. Eemanus Portus, Lymne. Leucariiim, Loghor. Lindum, colojiia, Lincoln. Lindum in Scotland. Londinium, coloiiia, Aug. Lon¬ don. Luguvalia, Latio jure donata, Carlille. Madum, Madefton. Magiovinium, Dunffable. Magna, Old Radnor. Manduefedurn, ManceRer. Mancimium, Mancaftle. Cirencejtery &c. Margidmnim, Wilughby. Medtolanum, Myvod. ^ Mediolanum, Chellerton by New- caftle. ^ Mejtapia, St. David’s. Muridunion, fipendiaria, Seaton. Nidum, Neath. Noviomagus, Croydon. ^ Orrea, Dunkeld. Pecuaria, Brough. Pennocrucium, Penkridge. Portus Magnus, Portchefter. * Portus Sifu77tiorum, Lune river mouth. Praefdium, Warwick. Pratuariwn, Patrinton. * Pteretone, Latio jure do7iata, In- vernefs. Ratae Coritanorum, fipendiaria, Leicefter. Regulbium, Reculver. * Regnu7n, Chichefter. ^ Rerigonium, Ribchelter. Rhufupis, co'onia. Sandwich. Rut unium. Row ton. ^ Salini s, Droitwich. Segontium, fipendiaria, Caer¬ narvon. Sitomagus, Thetford. Sorbiodunum, Latio jure donata. Old Sarum. Spinis, Spene. * Statio trajedius, ChepRow. * Sulloniagis, Edgware. ^ La7nara, Saltafh. * Lamea, BrumcheRer. * Famefe, Stretley. * Lheodofa, Latio jure donata, Dun- briton. * Libia ainnis, CaerdiR' r. Lri7nu7iti7m, Cannaby. * Lrip072tiu7n, Dowbridge, Showel. Luaefis, Rothes. ^ Vagniaca, Sevenoke. * Vallum Anto72i72i, Falkirk. Varis, Bodvary. * Varis, Nairn. Vata- ACCOUNT of 140 VatariSy Brough. Verna Silurum, JJipendiana, Caer- wcnt. Ve?ita Belgcrum, fiipcndiaria^ Winchefter. Venta Icenorum^ fipendiaria^ Caller by Norwich. ^ Vennonis^ Cleycefter. Verolanium, municipnum^ Verulam- ceiter. Verhicio, Laycock. * Vernometum., Cofington. * Vidloria^ Laiio jure danata^ Perth. Vindonum^ P pendiaria, Silcheiter. Vindocladia, Wimburn mimler. Viiicviumy Bine >.eflcr. Vindomcra, hbcliefter. Viriconiwiiy Wioxeter. ^ Voluba, Fowey. Voreda^ Caftlevoran. Uxoconiunij (Jkenyate. Flere are recounted 173 places in Britain, being 62 more than are con¬ tained in Antoninus’s Itinerary : and of thofe in our Itinerary I have marked with an aftenfc no lels than 76, which aie eithei intnely new, or not rightly aliigned to their true fit nations in former Wiiters. IV. OBSERVATIONS on the ITINERARY. I N my former papers I difeourfed to the Society, firft, in rehearfal of the memoirs we can recover concerning Richard of Cirenceiier, and of his Yvritings. I gave an account of the moft excellent Map of Roman Britain, pre¬ fixed to theTreatife we are upon. This not only enables us to fix many places and Rations, which before now we could do only by mere con- jeefure, and etymology of names, and the like; but further, it gives us 100 places not hitherto known, fo much as in name. Come we now to treat on the Itinerary, comprifed in 18 Iters^ which traverfe the ifland of Britain all manner of ways, in the nature of that we call Antoninus’s Itinerary; with the intermediate miles between every Ration : to which I have affigned the refpeftive modern names of the places, to the beR of my knowledge. This Itinerary of our author is far more copious than that of Anto¬ ninus ; eipecially it takes in the whole kingdom of Scotland, that country reduced by the valiant Agricola, and called by him Vtjpajiana^ when made a province, in honour to the reigning emperor’s father: it took him up feven whole years to complete this great conqueR : and one of our It ers extends from j 'lata caflra-, Invernefs, to the Land’s End in Cornwall. From due confideration we have reafon to believe, this Itineraiy of our author’s, as to the original plan, is no other than that of Agricola. After he was recalled by Domitian, about A. D. 85 to Hadrians time, Britain was neglected. Agricola’s cities in Scotland overthrown, his caftles difmantled ; fo that Tacitus well fays, Perdomita Britannia et fiatim amifjd : he means only Scotland fubdued by Agricola ; for four lesions remained in that part we call England, to keep it in fubjedtion till Hadrian came. To our Itinerary alone, and the Map, are we indebted for the know¬ ledge of the Rations in Scotland; fo that we muR conclude, he had light of manuferipts and rolls which were written in that time; wliether in t iie libraries at Rome, or in the monaRic libraries of Britain, we know not: RICHARD of Cirencejier, &c. 141 not: but from the fame libraries Antoninus’s Itinerary, and the like monuments of learned antiquity, were taken. It would feem that Whittichind, the Saxon author, had feen fuch like works as our Richard perufed: he writes, that Britain was divided into provinces by Vefpalian. Richard writes exprefly, that he copied fome papers tranfmitted to posterity by a Roman general, who probably was Agricola : he had ibme informations from cej tain religious of his order, who had been in Scotland. He learnt what he writes on Caledonia^ from Britifh merchants. Again, fpeaking of Glevum^ Gloucefter, he fays, it is a Roman colony, conftituted by Claudius, ut fcriptores de ijlis temporibus affirmant: fo that he omitted no kind of means to acquire knowledge of the Britihi geography. In medioy ad fines^ ad Itunam Jlu. ad montem Grampium.^ Herirus monsy Alpes Penniniy ad Pontem^ ad Murum^ ad Vallu?n ; a very great number of thefe, and the like, being recited, intimate the high antiquity of the Itinerary j that the roads were generally made, or marked out; but towns, cities, caftles, not then built, only fome inns, for prefent con- veniency. Efpecially we fee this in Scotland, a good way on the fea- coaft northerly, and remarkably in the IXth Iter: ad Tavum, ad JEff camy ad Tdinamy ad Itunamy ad montem Grampiuniy ad Selinam ; and in the map thefe rivers are named, and the Grampian mountain, without a town’s name annexed, as then not fully built: and probably that coun¬ try was left by the Romans before the towns v/ere built, the Romans having chiefly ftrong camps by the rivers. We may reafonably hence judge, the original itinerary and map, which our Richard copied, was conftrudted in Agricola’s time j though afterward additions were made to it. We fee likewife this method of nomination ufed in other more diffant parts, as PLerirus monsm.'^dXt^y Alpes peniiini m i\\Q mountainous tradl of Lancafhire. In Iter IV. Ad Pifam amnemy Ad Murumy Ad Alaujiam jlu. Ad Tue- dam jlu. Ad Vallum. In Iter XL Ad Aloney Ad Sabrinamy Tibia a?nnisy Ad Vigefirnum lapidem, 6cc. In Iter XV. Ad Lapidem, Ad Decimmn lapidemy where only mile-ftones are named : and the remains of this manner of denomination are left in the Englifh names Stonehamy Stofiey Stanejieldy Stanwic, Stantojiy and the like. We learn to corredl many words in our geography, which before were not truly wrote : for inftance, Ba}inavennay Towcefter, fometimes Be- navonay Bennaventay which words have no meaning, is really Ifannavariay ill placed at Weedon, or rather Jfantavaria: which words are eafily deduced from the Britifh. I judge it will be a matter ufeful to the fludious in this kind of learn¬ ing, to colledl into one general Index all the names of places, hitherto recited in the Map and Itinerary, with the annexed aflerifc, denoting thofe names, which are new, or better placed than in former books, or of new denomination; to which we muft add thofe recited in his Vlth chapter of the Chorcgraphy of Britain This contains above loo names not found in my friend Mr. Baxter’s GloJJarium Brittanicum y who has colledfed all the names we before knew: and this prefent mult juftiy be efteemed the noblefl monument of antient Britain. VoL. IL O o ^ Abjua ACCOUNT of 143 * Abona fu. of Caledonia^ Frith of Dournach, in the Highlands. * Abusj the Humber. Abona., r. Avon of Briftol and Bat h, Prinii^. Acmod,:^ ides. ^ Ad Abum, Wintringham, Lin¬ coln (hire. Ad Alau?2am, r. Alnvvic, by the Wall, Northumberland. * Ad Alaunam, r. Alone, Lancafter. * Ad Alone, Abone, on Frome r. by Everdiot, Dorfetdiire. Ad Anfam, Stretford-ftreet, Suf¬ folk, Ad Sturlum, f. * Ad Fi?ies Brigantes mtcr et Cori- tanos, Gravelborough by Ro- , theram. Weft-riding, York- ftiire. * Ad Mficam. ^ Ad Antonam, Evefham, Wor- cefterfhire. Ad Aquas, Wells, Somerfet- fhire. * Ad Durium amnem. * Ad Fifies Fr inch antes mter et Cenomanos, Roifton, Hertford- ill ire. * Ad Ituna?n. Ad Decimum, fc. lapidem. * Ad Fines Maximam inter et Fla¬ viam, Stretford on Merfey, in Lancafhire. * Ad Lapidem, Stoneham. ^ Ad Lemanum, r. old Romney. ^ Ad Montem Grampium. * Ad Murum, Newcaftle on Tyne. ^ Ad Fines, Rochefter, by Redef- dale, on r. N. Tyne. ■* AdFifam,fl. Peirfebridge, York- ftiire, Ovynford. * Ad Fontem, Bridgeford, Notting- hamftiire. Ad Selinam. * Ad Sabrinam, f. Awft. ^ Ad Favum, f. * Ad Finam,f. * Ad Fuedam, f. Berwick. ^ Ad Vigejimum, fc. lapidem, Nar- bath - caftle. ■* Ad Uxellam amnem, * Ad Frivonam, f. Burton upon Trent. * Ad Vallum, Anfcnini, Falkirk. * Ad Sturiam, f. Stretford-ftreet, Ad Anfam, Suffolk. JElia Cafira, Aldcefter by Biceter, Oxfordfliire. JLfica, r. of Ve 5 iuriones. Agelocum, Littleborough on Trent Nottinghamftiire. * Alata Cafra, Invernefs, Vaco- magorum Metropolis, Laiio jure donata, Pteroton. Alcluith, ad lucum Lineali dor, Fheodofta. * Alpes Pennini, Pendleton, Pen- dlebury, Lancafhire. ^ Alpes, hills of Lothlers, Valentia, Scotland. Alaima, Sterling, Horejltorum urbs. Alauna, r. Aylmouth, Awn. Northumberland. ^ Alauna, r. Lune of Lancafler, Maxima. ^ Alauna, Alcefter upon Arrow, Dobunorum urbs, Flavia, Warwickihire. Alauna, r. by Blandford, Dorfet- fhire. * Alicana, Shipton by Craven,. Yorkihire. * Albanii, Broadalbin, Scotland. Albani, by Lorn, Scotland. Antona, r. Avon of Northampton, Nen. Antona, r. Winchefter, Hants. Anderida Portus, Newhaven, Suf- fex. Anderida Sylva, Caledonia, Suffex., Anterii, Ireland. Anterium Metropolis, there. Andros, ide. Antivefaum, prom, Penros, Corn¬ wall. * Artavia, Tintagel, Cornwall. * Aqua, Buchan, Scotland. Aqua Solis, coloitia, Fherma, Bath. AricoJiiwn, Kenchefter, of Silures, Secunda, Herefordfhire. Ara finium imperii Romani, Cha- nery in the Highlands. Argitta, r. of Rhobogdii, Ireland. Atlanticus RICHARD of uitlanlicus Oceanus^ the Atlantic Ocean. * Attacottii Lochabar, of Vefpa- Jiana. Atrebates^ Berkfhire. Avahnia-t Heduorum urbs, Gla- fenbury. Aufona, r. of Northampton, Na¬ ina, Nen. Aufoba Sinus, Ireland. Banna, r. of Rhobogdii, Ireland. * Banatia, Lochabar by Fort- William, Vacomagi. Banchorium, Bonium, oi Carnabii, Banchor, Flintlhire. Benonce, of Carnabii, Cleycefter, Highcrofs, Northamptonlh. Belifama, r. Rible, Maxma Ccefarienjis, Lancafliire. Belga, Somerfetfhire. Beregonium, Valentia, Dunftafag, in Lorn. * Berigonius Sinus, by Cantyre, Scotland. Bibroci, or Rhemi, Berkfhire. * Bibrax, Bibradte, of Bibroci, Bi- brocum, Madanhead, Bray, Berks. Blejiium, Oldcaftle on Hefcol r. Scotland, Blefcium. Boduni, Oxfordfhire, Gloucefter- fhire, Worceflerfhire. Bolerium, prom. Prima, St. Ive’s, Cornwall. Bodotria, Bodoria, JEJiuarium, Frith of Forth, Scotland. Bonium, Banchorium, Banchor, Flintfhire. Bovium, Boverton, Glamorgan- fliire. Brangonium, Worcefler. Brannogenium, Oxfordfhire, Fla¬ via, of Ordovices, or Dobuni. Branavis, Banbury. Bremenium, Rochefter, North¬ umberland, capital of Ottodmi, Jiipendiaria. * Bremenium, Birmingham, War- wickfhire., Brigantes, Yorkfhire. Brigantes, Ireland. Brigas, Ireland. Cirencejlei\ 8 zc. 143 Brigantia, Ireland. Brigantium, Ifurium, Aldbo- rough, Yorkfhire. * Brigantum extrema, proin. Flam- borough-head, Yorkfhire. Brige, Braga, Broughton, Hamp- fhire. Brinavis, Banbury, Oxfordfh, Britannia Prima, Province. Britanfiia Secuizda, Province. - Flavia, Province. -- Maxima, Province. - Valentia, Province, ufque ad murum Antonini. - Vefpajiana, Province, ultra murim Antonmi. Brocavonacis, Brovonacis, Brow- ham, Northumberland. Bullium, Bierrium, Bultrum, Caer- phylli caftle, Brecknockfhire. Buvinda, r. Ireland. Caledonia, Province, Highlands. Caledonia, f. Anderida Sylva, Suf- fex. Caledonia Sylva, in the High¬ lands. * Caledonia extrema, Dunfby-head, Scotland. Cafarea infula, Jerfey. Canta, Cromarty in the High¬ lands. Candida cafa, Leucopibia, Whit- hern in Galway. * Carnabii, Sutherland in the High¬ lands. Caledonii, Invernefs county, be¬ yond Varar. ^ Carnabii, in Staffordfhire, Wales, Chefhire, Flavia. Caledonia Sylva, Rockingham fo- refl, Northamptonfhire. Carronaca, Carnovaca, Strath- navern in the Highlands. ^ Cattini, Cathnefs in the High¬ lands. CaJJii, Cateuchlani, Middlefex. ^ Camboritum, colonia, Cheflerford, Cambridgefhire. * Camulodumim, colonia, Colchefler, Frinobantum, legio xiv. Gemina, Martia. * Cambola ACCOUNT of *■ Cambola, r. Padftow haven, Ca- melford, Cornwall. Caleba Atrebatum metropolis, Wallingford, Berkfhire. Canta, Cantii, Kent. Cantiopolis, Durovernum, Canter¬ bury, metropolis, Jlipendi ari a. Cantium, prom. Kent. * Canganus Sinus, by Harley, Car- narvonlbire, or Merionidfhire. Canganum, prom. Llyn Point, Carnarvonlbire. Cangiani, * Cajionium, Kelvedon, ElTex. Calcaria, Tadcafter, Yorklhire. Cambodunim, Latio jure donata, Alkmundbury, Yorklhire. CaJiovius, r. of Mona ifle, Angle- fey. CaJJiterides hifula, Scilly. Catarabton, CataraSionium, Latio jure donata, Thornburgh, Cat- teric. Maxima. Cattieuchla?ii, Cajfii, Hertford- Ihire. Cauci, Ireland. Caiifennis, Stanfeild, Lincoln- Ihire. Cauna Infula, Shepey. Carnabii, Cornwall, * Car'banticum, Kirkubright, Treef c. on Dee. * Caj'aromagus, Chelmsford. Celnius, r. of Vacomagi, Duvern, Scotland. Ccrojies, Invernefs county, Scot¬ land. Cenia, Tregeny, Damnoniorum metropolis, Falmouth. Cenius, r. Falmouth haven, Dam¬ noniorum, by Tregeny. Cenotnajii, Huntingdonfhire, Cambridgefhire, Norfolk, Suf¬ folk. Cimbri, Prima, Somerfetlhire. * Clita, r. Secunda, Clvyd, by St. Afaph. Claiifantum, Belgarum, South¬ ampton, metropolis. Clota infula, Vfpajiana, Arran iile. Clotta JEftuariiim, Valentia* Cluda, r. Cluyd, Clyd, * Condate, Northwich, Chelhire. ^ Combretcniujn, Bretenham, Brad- feild Combuft, Suffolk. Conovius, r. Canovy, Aberconway, Caernarvonlhire. ■' Concangios, Watercrook by Ken¬ dal, Weftmorland. Colanica, Gadatiica, Peebles, Va¬ lentia. Conovium, Aberconwy. Concangii, Ireland. ^ Coccium, Latio jure donata, Sif- timtiorum. Burton, Lanca- fhire. ^ Coitani, Forell of Rockingham, Caledonia Syha, Northamp- tonlhire. ^ Coria, Corflan law, metropolis of Gadeni, Lothian. Corbantorigum, of Selgova. Coriniwn Dobunorum, Latio jure donata, Cirenceifer, Glou- cefterfhire. ^ Coritafii, Leicelterfliire, Lincolh- fhire. Coriondii, Ireland. * Corifen?iis, Caufennis, Stanfeild, Lincoln (hire. ^ Corium, Cors ford by Lanerk, Cluydfdale. Corjloplium, Corbridge, North¬ umberland. Crococolana, Colingham, Not- tinghamfhire. Cronium mare, northern Ocean. ^ Creones, Cerones ad Volfas Jinus, Rofs. Cunedio, Marlborough, Cunetio, Wiltfliire. Dabrona, r. Ireland, Damnii, Argylelliire, Vefpafiana. * Damnii Albani, Scotland, infra Lavum, Vacomagosque, Va¬ lentia, Lorn. Damnia, north and fouth of the wall of Severus. Damnonii, Somerfetlhire, Prima. Damnii, Ireland. Danum, Doncafter, Yorkfhire. Delgovicia, Wighton, Yorkfliire, Darabouna, r. of Rhobogdii, Ire¬ land. Der- RICHARD of Cirencejter, &c. 145 Derventio^ Stanford-bridge, Yorkfhire. DernjentiOi Little Chefter, by Derby. Derve?itiOi r. Derwent, Cumber¬ land, Maximae. Deva., r. of 'Taixali, by Aberdeen, Dee. Deva, r. Dee by Kirkcubright, of Selgova, * Dena, r. Cree, by Whithern, Scotland. Deva, colonia, Weifchelfer, legio XX. V. V. Cretica, Flavia. Devana, of Faixali, Aberdeen, Divana. ^ Dimeii, Silurum gens, Secunda, Cardigan Ibdre. Dobona, r. Ireland. Dohuni, Boduni, Catti euchlano- rum gens, Oxfordfhire. Dunum, tnetropolis, Ireland. Dubris, r. of Cantii, Douvre. Dubris, portus, Dover, Kent. Durius r. Ireland. Durius r. Damnoniorum, Dart, Devonfhire. * Durinum, Durnovaria, Dorcbe- fter, Dorfetfhire, jiipendiaria. Durobris, Duroprovis, Rochefter, ftipendiaria, Durobrovis. * Durnomagus, Caller by Peter¬ borough, Cenomannorum, Latio jure donata, Northamptonfhire. Durotriges, f. Morini, Dorfet¬ fhire. Durolevum, Durofevum, Sitting- burn, Kent. * Durolitum, Romford, Durofitum, Elfex. Durocina, Dorchelter epifcopi, Oxfordfhire. Durofiponte, Godmancheller, Huntingdonlliire. Durovernum, Jiipendiaria, Canter¬ bury, Cantiopolis. Eblana, Ireland. Eboracum, municipium, former¬ ly colonia leg. vi. vidlrix, York. Ebuda ide, Hebrid, Caledonia. ■ -II. Caledonia. Ebuda III. Skye, Caledonia. -IV. Caledonia. -V. Caledonia. Ebudum, prom, of Carmvaca, Plighlands. * Epiacum, Chefter in the llreet, county of Durham, Brigan¬ tum, Maxima. * Epidia, infula fuperior, North- vill, Vefpafiana. Epidium, prom. Highlands. * Epidii, Cantyre, Highlands. * Epidia, infida inferior, South- vifl, Vejpafiana. Eriri mons, by Bala, Merionyd- fhire. Etocetum, of Carnahii, wall by Litchfield, Flavia, Stafford- ihire. Flavia, Province. Forutn Diana, Cajfiorum, Mar- ket-llreet, by Dunllable, Hertfordfhire. ^ Fretum Menevicurn, Cardigan, bay. Secunda. Gadeni, in Northumberland, Va¬ lentia. Gadenia, north of the wall of Severus. Gadeni, in Scotland. ^ Gadanica, Colonica, Colecelter, or Peebles, Scotland. ^ Galgacum, Galacum, Lanchefter, Brigantum, Maxima, Dur¬ ham county. Garion, r. Yare, Garienus, Nor¬ folk. Genania, Province, North Wales. Glevum, Glebon, colonia, leg. vii. Claudia Dobunorum, Glou- celler, Flavia. Gobannium Silurum, Abergaveny, Secunda. Grampius, m. Grantlbein, Scot¬ land, Vefpafiana. * Halengum, Halangium, Haildon, Cornwall. Hebudes infula v. * Helenum, prom. Helenis Corna- biorum. Berry Point, Devon- fliire. VoL. II P P Her- 146 ACCOUNT of Herculis columna^ Cornwall, Main Ambres. Herculis, prom. Hertland Point, Devonfhire. Herculis infula, Heraclea, Lundy, Primce. ^ Hedtii, Somerfetfliire. * Heriri m m. by Bala, Wales, Secundce, Merionydfliire. Hierna. Horejiii, ad 'Tamm, Fife, Vefpa- fiancc. Ibe?mia, city in Ireland, Ibernus, r. Ireland. Ibernii, Ireland. Jcejui, Rutland, Cambridgefliire, Suffolk, Flavi re. Icianis, Ixworth, Icklingham, Suffolk. Idu??nmus, r. by Chelmsford, Ef- fex, Trinobantes. 11 a, r. Ale, Flighlands, Caledonice. ^ In ?nedio. ^ In medium, Kirkton, Lincolnfhire. Ifannava?da, Towcefter, IJanta- varia, Northamptonfhire. Ifca, r. Ex by Exeter, Primed. ifea Damnoniorum, metropolis, fi- pendiaria, Exeter. Ifca ^Silurum colonia, Caerleon, leg. II. Aug. metropolis Bri¬ tannia Secunda, Monmouth- ihire. Ifca, r. Ufk, Monmouthfhire. Ifchalis Hediiorum, Ilchefter, So- merfetfhire. Ifurium Brigantim, Brigantium, fnetropolis, Yorkdiire, Aldbo- rough. Maxima, Aldwark. Ituna, r. of Taixali, Ythan, Vefpa- fiana. * Ituna Mfuarium, Eden, Valentia. Ituna, r. of Selgova. Itys, r. Highlands. * KpiS y-iTOTTuv, prom. Ram head. Pri¬ ma, Cornwall. Ladicrodum, Stoney-Stretford, Bucks. Lataris, Bowes, YorkOiire, Lebarum, Ireland. Legiolium, Cafterford, Yorkfliire. Lelanonius Sinus, Lochleven, Highlands, Vefpafiana. Lemanus portus, Limne, prima, Kent. Lematia, r. Cantii, Lime-water, Kent. Lemanus, r. boundary of Cantii and Bibroci. * Leucopibia, candida cafa, Withern, Novantutn, metropolis, Valentia, Scotland. Leucarium, Loghor, Glamorgan- fliire. Libnius mons, Ireland. Libnius, metropolis, Ireland. ^ Lincalidor lacus, Lochlomond, Attacottorum. ^ Lindum, Dunblane, Horeftiorum. Lindum colonia Coritanorum, Lin¬ coln. Loebius, r. Ireland. Logi, Sutherland, Highlands. Londinium Augujla, London, co¬ lonia, Lundinum, metropolis, Flavia. * Longus, r. Lochlock, Highlands. Loxa, r. Frith of Cromarty, Highlands. * Liianticurn, Lovantium, metropo¬ lis Dimetiorum, Cardigan, Se- cunda. Lucani, Ireland. Lugubalia, Latio jure donata, Sifiuntiorum, Carlifle, Maxima, Maata, north of the wall of Se¬ verus. Macobicum, metropolis, Ireland. Madum, Madefton, Kent. Madus, r. Medway, Kent. Magna Silurum, Old Radnor. Magiovinium, Dunftable, Bed- fordfliire. Maleos, Ifle Mull. Manavia, Ille of Man. Mancunium, Mancaffle, by Man- chefter, Lancafhire. Mandueffedum, Mancefter, War- wicklhire. * Mare Orcadum, Pentland Frith. * Mare Thule, North Britlfh fea, Caledonia. ^ Margidimum, IIICHARD of Margidunumt Willughby, Not- tinghamfliire. Moridunum^ Seaton, Jitpendiariaj Devon {hire. Maxima^ Province. Mediolanum, Myvod, Ordovicum, Montgomery (hire. Mediolanum, Ireland. Mediolanum, Chefterton by New- caftle, StafFordfhire. Menapia, Ille Ramfey, Pembroke- fhire. Menapia, in Ireland. Menapii, Ireland. Menavia, Menapia, Dimetiorum, Pembrokefhire, St. David’s. Meneviacum fretum, Irifh fea. Merfeia, r. Merfey, Chelhire. Merta, Murray, Highlands. Metaris ajluarium, Lincolnfhire Walhes, Flavia. Modona r. Ireland. Mona infula, Anglefey, N. Wales. Monada hfula, Mona, Monada, Man. Moricambe, r. Decker, Lancafliire, Maxima. Morini, Somerfetlhire, Dorfet, Prima. Muridunum, Columb, Cornwall, Prima. Muridunum, Carmarthen, Jlipen- diaria, Dimetiorum, metropolis, S. Wales. Mujidum, Cornwall. Nabius, r. Nabaus, Navern, Highlands. Nagnata, Ireland. Nen, Naina, r. Peterborough, Northamptonfliire. Nidus, r. Nith, Nithefdale. Nidum, Neath. Nidus, r. Neatb, Glamorganlhire, Secunda. Novant a. Weft Galway, Va¬ lentia. Novantum Cherfonefus, prom. Galway. Noviomagus, metropolis, Bibroco- ru?n, f. Rhemorum, Croydon, Prma, Surry. drencher] &c. 147 Novajitia, north of the wall of Severus. Novius, r. Selgova, Scotland, Obora, r. Ireland. * Ocetis, Ille, Stroma, Caledonia. * Oceanus Deucalidonius, Weft Britifti Sea. Ocrinum, prom. Cimbrorum, Cornwall. Ocrinum mons, Penryn, Cornwall, Prima. Oli cana, Brigantum, Wetherby, Maxima. Orcaspro7n. Farohead, Highlands. Otturupium, prom. Dimetiorum, Bifhop and Clerks, Pembroke- fliire. * Orrea, Perth, Vedlurionum, Dun- keld, St. Johnfton. Orcades, Ifles xxx. Ordovicia. Ordovices, Silurum gens. * Otys, r. Loch-foil, Lochabar. Ottadini, Northumberland. Ottadinii, north of the wall of Severus. Oxellum, prom. Brigantum, Spurn- head, Holdernefs, Yorkfhire. Parifii, Brigantum, Holdernefs. * Penoxyllum, prom. Terbaetnefs, Canta, Rol’s. * Pennina montes. Peak, Derbyfhire, Maxima. Pennocrucium, Penkridge, Staf- fordfhire. * Petuaria, Parijiorum, Brough, Yorkfhire, Pecuaria. ^ portus faelix, Bridlington-bay, Parifwrum, Yorkfhire. Portus magnus, Belgarum, Port* chefter, Hampfhire. * Portus Sijiuntiorum, Lune r. mouth, Lancafliire. Pomona, Ifle, Mainland, Ork¬ neys. Prajidium, Warwick. Pratuarium, Patrinton, York¬ fhire, Holdernefs. * Pteroton, alata cajira, Invernefs, Vacomagorum metropolis, ^ Latio jure donata. Raga, ACCOUNT of Raga:, Rata Coritanorum, Lei- cefter, Coitanorum, jlipendiaria, Flavia. Regia, metropolis, Velatorioriim, Ireland. *• Regnum, Chichefter, Regentium, Sudex. Regulbium, Reculver, Prima, Kent. Rerigoniiun, Sijiuntiorum, Maxima, Burton on Lune, or Ribchefter, Lancailiire. Rhaba, metropolis, there, Ireland. Rhebius, r. Ireland, Rbebius, lake, Ireland. Rhemi, or Bibroci, Berks. Rbobogdii, Ireland. Rhobogdium, metropolis there. Rbobogdium, prom. Rhufina, metrop. of Ibernii, Ire¬ land. Ricinia, Iile. Riitunium, Rowton, Shropfliire. Rutupium colonia, metrop. leg. ii. aug. portus. Sandwich, Rich- borough, Kent. Sabrina ajluar. Severn, Prima. Sacrum, prom. Ireland. Salina Dobunorum, Saltwarp, Droitwich, Flavia, Wor- celferOiire. Sarna, Ille. Scotti, hrft inhabitants of Ire¬ land. Secunda, Province. Segontiaci, HainplTiire. Segontiiim, Carnarvon, Jlipen- diaria, metropolis, Cangianorum, Secunda. Selgova, at Solway Frith, An- nandale. Selgovia, north of the wall of Severus. Sena, Ille. Senus, r. Ireland. Seteia, r. of Brigantes. Silimnus, Ille. Silures, Herefordfhire. Silva Caledonia, Rockingham Foreft, Northampton (hire. Silva Caledonia, Stetadel Foreft, Sutherland. Sinus Metans, Lmcolnfhire Waflies. * Siftuntii, Lancaftiire, Maxima. Sitomagus, Thetford, Norfolk. Sorbiodunum, Old Sarum, Wilts, Latio jure donata, Belga, pra- fidium Romanorum. Spinis, Spene, Berkfhire. Statio FrajeBus, Chepftow, Mon- mouthlhire. * Strabo, r. Oudergill, Rofs. Sturius, r. Cantii, Stour, Kent. Sturius, r. Frimbantum, Stour, Eflex. Stuccia, r. Rhydel by Aberyftwth, S. Wales. Sunus, r. Soar, Flavia extrema, Leicefterfliire. ^ Sulioniagis, Edgware, Middlefex. Sygdeles, Illes, Oejlromynides, CaJJiterides, Scilly Iftes, Numb. XL. * F amara, by Taviftoke, Saltalh, Damnoniorum, upon Tamar, Devon Ihire. F amarus, r. Damnoniorum, Tamar, Devonfhire. * Fameje, Stretley, Berks. ^ Famea, Brunchefter by Blair, Vacomagi. Faixali in north of Scotland. Faixalorum, prom, part of m. Grampius, Buchannefs. Favus, r. Tay in Vefpajiana Pro¬ vince, by Perth. Favus, r. Tay in England, Devon¬ fhire. Favus afiuarium, ' Tay Frith, Scotland. * Fermolus, South Moulton, De¬ vonfhire, Prima. * Fexalum, Caftle in Mearns. Fhamefis, r. Thames. * Fherma, colonia. Aqua Solis, Bath, Heduorum. ^ Fbeodofia, Alcluith, Dun Briton, Latio jure donata, Vejpafiana. Fhule, Ille Iceland, Caledonia. Fhanatos, Ifte Thanet, Kent. * Fibia, r. by Caerdiff. Fina, r. by Montrofe, Vediuri- onum. Fina, RICHARD of Cirence/ier, &c. 149 ‘Tina, both rivers of Ottadmiy Northumberland. * 'Tifay r. Tees, Yorkfhire, Maxima. * Tobiusy r. Rhymnyr, by CaerdifF, Secunda. * Tobiusy r. Tewy, by Caermarthen. I’oJfibuSy r. of Mona Ifle, Canovius. Trinobantesy Middlefex. Trifantony r. Newhaven, Suffex. ^ Tdrimuntiuniy Selgovay Canaby, Scotland. * T’ripontiumy Dowbridge, Showel, Northamptonfhire. * Trivona Coritanorumy r. Trent. Flavia. F’uaJJis of Vacomagiy on Spay r. Rothes. Tduejfisy r. of Vacomagiy Spay, Scotland. * Fuerbiusy r. Tyvy, by Caerdigan. Fueday r. of Ottadiniy Tuede, Northumberland. Vacomagiy Athol, beyond Gram¬ pius in Vefpafiana. * Vagay r. Wye, Herefordfhire, Se¬ cunda. * Vallum Antonini y Falkirk, Scot¬ land. Vallum Severiy Pidts wall. Vanduariay Vanduariumy Damni- orumy Clydfdale, a Roman garrifon, Krawford. Varar ajluariuniy Frith of Mur¬ ray. Vararisy r. Vicomagiy by Inver- nefs, Scotland. Vaimnay Wainflet, Lincolndiire. Valentia Province, ad murum An¬ tonini. Varisy Bodvary, Flintfliire. Vatarisy Brough, Weftmorland. * Varis y Nairn, Scotland. * Vagniacay Sevenoak, Kent. Vehurionesy Venriconesy Angus, Scotland. VeBay Ifle Wyght. Velatoriiy Ireland. Vedray r. Weremouth, Durham. Venta Icenorum y Cafter by Nor¬ wich, metropolisy Jiipendiariay Norfolk. Venta Belgarumy Winchefler, Jii¬ pendiariay Hampfliire. VoL. II. Ventay Winburnminfter, Dorfetfli. Vmta Silururny Jiipendiariay Caer- went, Monmouthflrire. * Vemnisy Cleycefter, Highcrofs, Northamptonfhire. Venicniuniy prom. Ireland. Venicniiy Ireland. Venicnia Ifles, Ireland. * Vernometuniy Cofmgton, Lei- cefterfhire. * Verlucioy Laycock, Wiltflrire. Verolaniumy Verulam, St. Alban’s, municipiumy Cajjiiy Hertfordfli. Vervedrunty prom. Nefs head, Ca¬ ledonia. Vefpafianay Province, beyond An¬ toninus’s Fratentura. * ViBoriay Perth, Airdoch, Latio jure donata. ViBoriay Dunbriton, Latio jure donat ay of Horejiiiy upon Fa¬ vus r. Scotland. Vidogaray r. Ayr in Kyle, Va¬ lentia. Viduay r. Rhobogdiiy Ireland. Vindomoray Ebchefter, Durham. Vindelisy prom. Vindelia.y Portland Ifle, Dorfetfhire, Vindonuniy Jiipendiariay Segonti- orum metropolisy Silchefler, Berks. Vinder r. Ireland. Vindilios Ifle. Vinoviumy Peirfebridge, Binchef- ter, of Brigantesy Ovynford, Durham county. Vindocladiay Wimburnminfler, Dorfetfliire. Virgivus Oceanus. Virubiumy prom. Caledoniay Ord- head, extremum Caledonia. Vodiay r. Ireland. Vodiay prom. Ireland. Volfas Jinusy Lochbreyn, High¬ lands, Rofs. ^ Volubay Fowey, Cornwall. Volubay Damnoniorumy Gram- pound, Cornwall. Voluntiiy Volantiiy Amunder, Lan~ cafhire. Voluntiiy Ireland. Voreday Caflle Voran, North¬ umberland. Urusy r. Brigantes y Ure. ACCOUNT of, &c. ^5° JJricomumy Virlconiumy Wrox- cefter, Carnabiorum, metropolis^ Flavia, Shropihire. Uxella, Barton, on the Fofs road, Somerfetfhire, Damniorum. Uxella, r. Cimhri, Somerfetfhire, by Glafenbury, Frimce. Uxella, m. Uxeili, m. m. Hills of Lothlers, Cluydfdale. Uxellum, Dunfreys, Selgova, Nithifdale. Uxoconium, Okenyate, JJfocona, Salop. Wantfum ajluariumi Kent, mouth of Stour. This is a colledfive index, much the largeft extant, of all the places mentioned in the Map, in the Itinerary, in the Chorography, of Richard of Cirencefler’s work. It contains in the whole 500 names of antiquity, whereof about 150 I have figned with an aflerifc, as wholly new, more corre6lly named, or placed, than in former writers on the fubjeft. We muff needs look on it as a great treafure in Roman antiquities. I have afligned the modern names. It is impoffible I fhould be exadf in all, either in England, or Wales, or Scotland : they muff be left to the ftudious, who have proper fkill and opportunities to examine them, and make a juft ufe of the great light here thrown on the face of our ifland, in the earlieft times of the Romans : fome I have purpofely omitted, that the lovers of thefe antiquities may ufe like diligence to fill up thofe vacancies, as well as corredl others, which future difcoveries will enable them to do. The following is a fpecimen of the writing of the original manufcript, and explication thereof. Sequitur Commentariolum geographicum de fitu Brittania et Stationum quas Romani ipji in ea injula edijicaverunt. L. I. C. I. Ftms erat orbis ora Gallici littoris, nifi Brittania infula, non qualibet amplitudinis, nomen pene orbis alterius mereretur. Dicitur, hic abeji a GeJJariaco Morinorum Brittanice gentis portu^ tra- jedlu millium L. Jive ut quidam Jcripfere, Stadiorum CCCCL. illinc con- fpiciuntur. FINIS. CAROLI BERTRAMI LONDINENSIS NOT^ IN CAP. I. ET II. LIBRI PRIMI BRITANNIAE ROMANAE RICARDI MONACHI. AD LECTOREM. N OTiE in Caput primum & fecundum libri primi RICARDI noftri quas Tibi heic, candide Lector ! fifto, non funt nifi paucae earum plurium ad Antiquitates Britannicas pertinentium, quas laboriofe verfando cum veterum tum recentiorum fcripta collegi, (^ae fi tibi fuerint ad palatum, & candide a te accipi meruerint, Deo annuente redeuntibus temporibus tranquillitate felicioribus, integrum & com¬ pletum ex iis formatum commentarium habebis. Spero interea, te judicaturum effe, me, in eo, quod plura traftando te non moratus fim, confulte egilfe, praecipue tempore hoc, quo in confiderandis noflrae aetatis ftupendis fadiorum nexibus ad unum omnes fint nimium occupati, nec vacet rebus jam diu geftis, jamque inextricabile fere obfcuritate fepultis, attentam afferre mentem. NOTiE IN CAP. I. 1 'TRINIS erat orhis, &c. (i] Homerus (2) primus, faltem Graecos X* inter, (de iis enim, quae Orpheo tribuuntur, adhuc fub judice lis efl,) terram undiquaque Oceano cindlam allui (3) pronunciavit, opinio forte ipfi terrae coaeva, quod verba, quae fequuntur Clementis Alexandrini innuere videntur ; en ipfa verba: Menfam autem in Tem¬ plo, (altare quoque thymmiamatis a Moyse juffu divino fa£lum (4), habere undulas inflexas ac tortiles, (communiter coronam appellant,) fignificat terram, quam oceanus circumfluit (5^. Recepta haec erat Philofophorum (6), Geographorum (7), Hifloricorum (S), & Poeta¬ rum (1) Solinus cap. XXII. de mirabilibus Britanniae. Mela de Situ Orbis lib. III. cap. V. (2) Iliad S. V. 606. & H. V. 200. Florus Hiftor. Rom. lib. I. cap. XIII. Rutilii Nu- mat. Itin. (3) Strabo de Geogr. lib. I. p. 4, 9, &c. (4) Exodus cap. III. v. 3. (5) Stromat. lib. VI. p. 658. (6) Arifloteles lib. de Mundo c. III. Plinius Nat. Hift. lib. II. c. LXVI. LXVII. LXVIII. &c. M. Capella lib. VI. &c. &c. (7) Strabo Geogr. lib. pallim. Dionyllus Characenus paffim. Mela de Situ Orbis lib. I. c. I. & III. c. I. Aithicus, Rufus Feftus Avienus de Ora Marit. v. 390, &c. &c. (8) Johannes Tzetza variae Hiftor. Chi¬ liad. 8. Philoftratus L. apud Photium, p. lOII. NOTiE IN RICARDI ram (9), turn gentilium (10), turn Chriftianorum (11) opinio, atque quod ad Europam, Afiam & Africam, veterum orbem attinet, confentit illa ad unguem cum recentiffimis & optimis obfervationibus. Hoc eft cur veteres extrema littora finem terrae & naturae dixerint (12). Patet hoc, ut alios omittam, ex his Virgilii Romanorum Coryphaei didlis : Extremique hominum Morini —-(13) populi in Galliae finibus, qui Britanniam fpeclant, proximi oceano (14), & ultra oceanum quid erat praeter Britanniam (15), oceani infulam (16) ultimam occidentis (17), quam fallax aeftu circuit ipfe oceanus (18), cujus licet magnitudinem olim nemo, ut Livius refert, circumvedtus (19), Panegyricus (20) tamen Maximiano & Conftantino Impp. didtus aperte docet, eam tantae magnitudinis a Caefare habitam, ut non circum- fufa oceano, fed complexa ipfiim oceanum videretur (21). Haec cum verbis PvIcardi (22) confentiunt, quae verba funt apud Solinum (23) eadem. Britannia judicata eft orbis finis juxta Valerium Catullum qui Albionem noftram ultimam Britanniam (24), ejusque incolas Bri¬ tannos ultimos appellat (25). Sequitur eum in hoc Horatius Flac¬ cus ita pro falute Augufti vota nuncupans : Serves iturum Crefarem in ultimos Orbis Britannos -(26) nifi cum Beato Chrysostomo tibi placuerit Britanniam extra orbem pofitam (27), Romanorumque virtutem in orbem redadlam dicere (28). In Romanorum nomen elementa tranfierunt (29), in quos etiam tranfivit orbis terrarum, qui Romano Imperio clauditur & definitur, unde a pleris- que Orbis Romanus appellatur (30) j ita M. Annaeus Lucanus •- quin refpicis orbem Romanum (31) Et denuo de Caefare fermonem faciens idem Poeta canit: Hic cui Romani fpatium non Jufficit orbis. (32) Sed vero propius ad ipfam rem accidit Claudius Claudianus ita loquendo; ———nofiro de dubia Britannia mundo. (33) Nomen pene orbis alterius^ &c. (34]. Alii veterum audlorum non parce adeo loquuntur, liquet hoc ex his apud optimos eorum obviis ex- prefiionibus : At nunc oceanus geminos interluit orbes. (35) Britannia (9) Orpheus, Homerus, Cointus Smyr¬ naeus, &c. fere omnes. (10) E'ere omnes, uno ore. (11) Cofmas ^Egyptus Cofmogr. Chrif- tlan. lib. II. p. 131, &c. &c. (i2j Vide infra N. 45. & Ricard. p. 12. XII. &c. (13) ALneid. lib. VIII. v. 727. B. Hie¬ ronymus ad Gerontiam fub fin. Plinius N. H. lib. XIX. c. 1 . Julius Celfus in vita Csfaris, p. 44. (14) Servius Honoratus, ad loc. cit. Vir- (15) e XII. Panegyricis unus p. 265. Edit. Stephani. (16) jEthicus Cofmogr. p. 705. Ifidorus Hifp. Orig. lib. XiV. c. VI. (17) Catullus in Csfarem epigr. 30. v. 13. (18) Vet. Epigram, apud Scaligerum. (19) Apud Jornandem de Rebus Geticis. (20) XII. Panegyr. p. 258. (21) Sed vide Caefar de Bello Gal. Hb. V. c. XIII. (22) Pag. T. (23) Caput de Erit. (24) In Caefarem epigr. XXX. v. 4. (25) Ad Furium & Aur. epigr. XI. v. I2, (26) Ode XXXV. ad Fortunam, (27) Torn. V. p. 848. (28) Hegeffipus lib. II. c. IX. (29) Ricard. p. 25. (30) Hegeffipus. (31) De Bello Pharfal. lib. VIII. v. 442. (32) Lib. X. V. 456. (33) De Malii Theodofii Conf. v. 51. (34) Solinus Cap, de Britannia. (35) Vet, Poet, apud Scaligerum. MONACHI LIB. 1 . Britannia oceani infula interfufo mari toto orbe divifa (36), ALTER ORBIS appellatur (37), poftquam Romanorum fubjedta elTet imperio, ita canentes audimus : ConjunBum eji^ quod adhuc Orbis^ & Orbis erat (38). 'Et jam Romano cingitur Oceano (39). Et quamvis toto orbe divifa, tamen, qui vinceret, habuit Britannia (40), qu3e prae magnitudine videri poffit alia terra continens (41). omnibus terra marique, a Caefare, captis, refpexit oceanum, & quali hic Romanus orbis non fufficeret, alterum (Britannicum) cogitavit (42); aut cum Claudiano vate: Vmcendos alio qurefiverit in orbe Brita?inos (43). Hic orbis terra eft, quam ultra oceanum fitam fingit Cosmas Indico- pleuftes (44), opinio inveterata. Plautius Legatus enim, ut teftis ell Dio Cassius (45), difficulter exercitum e Gallia abduxit, indigne feren¬ tem, quod extra orbem terrarum bellum effiet gerendum, fciiicet in Bri¬ tannia - quce procul orbe jacet (46). Nam fi verum quaeramus, terra ipfa infra Romanorum Imperium effi, fuper quam progreffia Romana virtus ultra Oceanum, alterum fibi orbem quaelivit, & in Britannia remota a confinio terrarum novam fibi invenit poffieffiionis (47). aut ut ifte Panegyricus (48) eleganter mentem fuam explicat, Caefer alium fe orbem terrarum fcripfit reperiffie (49), & in Britanniam transjeciffie exercitum, alterum pene imperio noflro, ac fuo quaerens orbem (50), non oblitur alibi ita Conftantinum Magnum alloqui: gloriare tu vero, Caefar invifte ! alium te orbem terrarum peperiffie (51). Demum Nennius nofter narrat, in extremo limite orbis Britanniae effie ‘ Orcaniam infulam (52). Unde hae orbis particulae. Orbis vocabulum traxerunt, ex Aristotele difcere poterit Ledtor, ad quem eum, pro¬ lixitatis evitandae gratiae, remitto (53). Injula^ &c.] Primis Graecorum Romanorumque ne effie quidem compertum fuit: pofteriores in controverfiam adduxerunt, continensne ea terra, an vero infula effiet, multaque de utroque opinione confcripta funt ab iis, qui certi quidem nihil noverunt, quippe qui nec vidiffient, nec ab indigenis, qualis effiet, accepiffient, fed conjedluris tantum, quantum vel otii vel ffiudii fingulis aderat, niterentur. Succeffiu temporis* prius quidem fub J. Agricola Propraetore (54), deinde fub Severo Impera¬ tore, liquido deprehenfum effie infulam (55). OBingentis M. P. longa porrigitur Haec longitudo Britanniae a M. Vipsanio Agrippa tributa, cujus mentionem injicit C. Plinius Secundus (56), fequentibus ipfum Julio Soli no (57), Mart i ano Ca- VoL. II. R r PELLA (36) Ifidorus Hifp. orig. lib. XIV. c. VI. e Virgilio Ecl. I. v. 67. (37) Alfredus apud Higdenum, (38) Vet. Poet, apud Scalig. (39) Ibid. (40) Lib. III. c. X. ^ (41) Appianus in Pfaef. vide & Ifidorum Hifp. vel potius Solinum apud Rlcardum p. lOi. XXI. (42) L. Florus lib. III. cap. X, (43) De Secundo Conf. FI. Stilichonis V. 149. (44) Cofmocr. Chrifl:. p. 113, ( 45 ) Lib.LX.,p. 957. {46) Vet. Poet, apud Scahg. (47) HegelEpus. (48) Maximiano &: Conftantlno ditSlus p. 258. (49) Ibid. (50) Vellejus Paterculus Hillor. Rom. lib. II. (51) Panegyr. fupra-laudatus p. 262. (52) Cap. II. p. 98. editionis Flavn. (53) Lib. de Mundo, c. III. Plinius Nat. Hift. lib. III. cap. I. (54) Tacitus vita Agricolre c. XXXVIII. (55) Dio Caffius Hift. Rom. lib. XXXIX. pag. 114. ( 55 ) Nat. Hift. lib. IV. cap. XVI. (57) Cap. de Britannia, 154 N 0 TJ 2 IN RICARDI PELLA (58), Paulo Orosio (59), i^^Tiiico (60), Gilda fapiente (61), venerabili Beda (62), Nenn 10 Banchorenfi (63), &pluribus aliis, quoe fupra 730 milliaria Anglicana Statutaria, vel Regia, efficit. Haec longi¬ tudo quamvis reperiatur nimia, ad veritatem tamen proximius accedit, illa, quam Jornandes Epifcopus (ex CalTio Dione 64) exhibet, longi¬ tudine, qui eam VIL M. CXXXII. Stadia extendi ferri narrat (65), i. e. DCCCXCI. miniarium Romanorum cum dimidio, aut minoris aliquantum fuifie extenfionis, quam 820 noftrorum milliarium. quippe inde ab Ocrino (Lizard Point) extremo meridionali promontorio, ufque ad Orcadem extremum, Diingsby (vel potius Diinnet 66) head., maxime verfus Boream vergentem fint 590 milliaria Regia, fecundum recentiffimas & fide dig- niffimas relationes, quae non prorfus DCL Milliaria Romana efficiunt. Mappae geographicae feculi prioris (67) longitudinem ad 50, aliae 75, & aliae 120 plus minus milliaria, majorem extendunt, id efl ad DCC Millia paffuum. In Caledoniciim promuntorium^ &c.] Extremitas Caledoniae Ri car di noftri (68) potius intelligenda eft, de toto angulo (69) boreali Scotiae, fcilicet, Rollia, Sutherlandia, Cathenefia, Strath-navernia cum vicinis legiunculis, quae eis fubfunt, quam de fmgulari quodam promontorio. Monachus nofter femper in fyllaba fecunda ad morem plurium Mona¬ chorum adhibet U, qui fcribendi mos, ceu maxime genuinus affumitur, ais. Vossio(7o) rcGronoviis in iis, quas nobis dedere, Pomponii Melae editionibus, certe optimis, in quibus femper promunturium cum U in fecunda fyllaba reperies; quas, fi lubuerit, confulas (71). II. I 'eteres Britanniam-, &c. (1] Quodnam antiquiffimum & genuinum Magnae Britanniae inter tot varias appellationes, quibus ab extraneis pro¬ priisque incolis infignita fuit, nomen fuerit, inventu eft perquam diffi¬ cile, praefertim noftro, quo adeo longe diftamus, tempore; etenim, ut docent verba audloris, & nos etiam deinceps (2) evidenter explicabimus, omnes infulae in vicinia litae commune nomen B ri tan n i caru m habuere. Ut plurimae aliae regiones fic & haec nomen fuum a primo ejus conditore liaufit, verum autem quis hic fuerit, aeque ignotum, ac nomen, de quo (juaeritur. Tantum ex paucis, qui nobis fuperfunt. Scriptoribus novimus, quod fuerit appellata his nominibus: BRITANNIA, ALBION (3), Hyperborea (4), Atlantia (5), Cassiteris (6), ROMANIA (7), nec (58) Lib. VI. { 59) Lib. 1 . cap. II. (60) Cofmogr. p. 730. {6i) Cap. I. p. 67. (62) Hift. Eccl. lib. I. cap. I. (63) Cap. II. p. 97. (64) liift. Rom. lib. LXXVI. p. 867. (65) De rebus Geticis. (66) Elphinftone’s new corredl; Map of North Britain. o / (67) Job. Speed in Theatre, p. 131. ad 60 25 Herm. Moll in Tour through G. B. vol. III. 59 20 Rob. Gordon Atl. Blavian. vol. VI. 59 18 Job. Senex General Atlas, p. 233. 59 13 Rob. Mordon in Cambd. Brit. 59 8 De V/it and Danckert’s Maps 59 2 Tim. Pont. Atl. B!av. vol. VI. 58 57 Jof. Kelly Navig. p. 91. 58 47 J. Seller’s Tables, p. 292. 58 37 j. Elpb'nftone’s Map, 1745, 5^ 31 ;;6'8) Secundum pag. 94. LIV. (69) Solinus cap. de Brit. (70) Obfervationes ad P. Melam Hag^ comitis 1658. 4. (71) Johannis, Jacobi & Abrahami Gro- novii Editiones Pompon. Mel$, Julii Honorii, jTtbic. &c. Lugd. Bat. 1685. 8. 1696. 8. & 1722. 8. Maj. (1) Primitus h$c infula vocabatur ab Albis rupibus circa littora maris a longe apparentibus. R. Higdeni Polychron. hb, I. р. 19I. (2) Pag. 157. (3) Arifloteles lib. de Mundo cap. III. Plinius H. N. lib. IV. c. XVI. Ptolemsus Geogr. lib. II. c. III. &c. Buchananus eam Albium appellat. (4) Diodorus Siculus Biblioth. Hift. lib. II. с. III. e Hecataso, &;c. (5) Platonis Tim$us. (6) Plin. N. H. lib. VII. cap. LVI. Ka!7(7*T£p« apud Steph. Byzant. de urbibus. (7) Vopifeus in Floriano. Profper Aqui¬ tanus apud Camhd, Brit. p. XXVII. Gildas de excid. MONACHI LIB. 1. 155 nec non Thule (8), quse nomina a Phoenicibus Graecis & Romanis ipfi data* fuere, fed quodnam aut an ullum illorum Iit genuinum incertum adeo eft, ut verear ne nunquam fatis demonftrari poflit. ALBION & BRI¬ TANNIA jus antiquitatis fibi vindicant, cum apud Poetas Britannos, feu Bardos ejusdem fub nominibus Alban, vel Alben, Inis Wen (9), live Insula; Alba (io) & Prydan (ii) fiat mentio. ALBION anti- quiflimum cenfetur, quamtumvis nullum horum nominum fit illud, in quod inquirimus, cum Romanis bene nota fuerint, e contrario vero, fi in retanti momenti tefiimonio Dionis Cassii fides habenda eft, Bri¬ tannorum Regina BONDUICA affirmet, Romanorum fapientiffimos verum nomen (indigenarum) ignorafie (12). Hinc forte inveftigandum erit nomen, aliud a fupradidfis. interea de fingulis hic allegatis nobis erit fermo. 'Primum Albionem, &c. (13]. Ni ita didta fuerit ab z^lbion e Conditore vel Debellatore ejus, quem quidem Albionem Neptuni filium fuiffe alle¬ runt (14), certe ratio fit gravis hanc appellationem rejiciendi adefie vide¬ tur, cum certum fit ac evidlum, totam infularum claffem, tempore Ariftotelis (15), &verofimiliter jam diu ante ipfum, Britannicarum no¬ men gefiifie. Prseterea, fi etiam ab albis rupibus a Phoenicibus fic fuerit nuncupata, nil tamen ex eo fequitur, quam quod fuerit nomen impofi- tum, neutiquam genuinum, nifi affirmemus, cum quibusdam aliis (16), Phoenices fuifle primos hanc regionem incolentes, quod, antequam, fufficienter fuerit demonftratum, pro evidfo alTumere nullus potero. Attamen admilfa hac opinione, detedlis metallifodinis fianno mn (17) Barat-anaCy id efi: agrum feu terram Jianni fc plumbi, eos fine dubio dixifle, idque nomen omnibus circumjacentibus infulis dedifle, cum omnes fere ejusdem naturae & conditionis fint, tanta gaudet verifi- militudine, ut ulteriori indagine originis nominis Cassiteri dis, minime opus videatur. Notum enim eft, Graecos ei id nominis dedifle (18), cum eundem, quem praecedens habeat fignificatum & Kairo-mpov indigitet Jian- nwuy uti hoc probabit Plinius (19) & prolixius Bochartus (20). Phoenices autem, me judice, non fiiere primi incolae, verum tantum mercatores, primi in has partes mercatum proficifcentes, fuaque ibi erigentes emporia, (FaBories) quemadmodum hodie Europaei in oris maritimis Africae fimile faciunt, fequitur hinc, nomen quodcunque, ejusque generis nomina ab extraneis regioni impofita, longe abefle a genuino a nativis incolis indfto, ex iftorum lingua nullo modo derivando. Qupd in totum deftruit fpeciofas a Cambdene (21), Baxtero (22), & SoMNERo (23) fadlas derivationes, licet hucusque receptas maximo cum applaufu. Verum errari in his omnibus, dies absque dubio, cum nomen excid. Brit. cap. V. X, & XIV. Ricardus Corin. lib. I. cap. VI. 2g. &c, (8) Silius Italicus lib. XVII. v. 421. Ricardus Corin. lib. I. cap. VI. 50. e Cl. Claudiano de IV. conf Honorii v. 32. Arns- grimus Jonas Specim. Ifland. Hift. parte II. pag. 120. Sir Robert Sibbald apud Carab- denum edit. Gibfoni, p. 1089, &c. (g) Cambd. Brit. pag. 27. Seldenus in Polyolbion, p. 20. (10) Cambdenus, ut fupra. (11) Lhuydii Archaeolog. Brit. pag. 2ig. coi. 4. (12) Hiftor. Rom. lib. LXII. pag. 702. (13) Plin. N. H. lib. IV. cap. XVI. (14) Perottus, Lilius Gjraldus, Camb¬ denus, &tc. (15) Lib. de Mundo c. IIT. (16) Vide Notes on Cambden’s Brit. Edit. Gibf. p. 18. (X). (17) Bocharti Canaan, lib. I. c. XXXIX. (18) Strabo Geogr. lib. II. p. 191. (19) N. H. lib. XXXIV. cap. XVI. (zo) Ut fupra pag. 721. (21) a Brith, Britannica voce, addita Graeca terminatione tania pag;. 28, 29, 30. Edit. Gibfoni. (22) Gloflarium Antiq. Britann. voce Alvion, p. 13. (23) A littoribus ferventibus, & mari vel oceano circumfluo tam mire femper seftuofo, Gloflarium ad X. Scriptores voce Britannia, 156 NOTtE in RICARDI nomen e lingua incolarum vernacula originem trahat, fitque purum putum Britannicum ; pofito autem me eo acquiefcere, non tamen inde fequitur, haec nomina Britannica a nativis gentibus impofita effe, peregrini potius advenientes, ad quaeftiones incolis, aut Gallis datas, refponfa accipientes inde ita appellandi occafionem fumfere, cum eorum linguam Phoenices cal- luifie nullus credendi locus, hincque fignis mentem fuam explicaverint ne- ceffe eft. Sic manu fignificantibus Britanniam, nomenque fcifcitantibus, alii eos altas rupes cretaceas intelleftas credentes, refpondere: Alben, vel Brytin, atque ea ratione e vocabulis Aly Alpy Bejiy Pe?i, Bryd, Prydy Bryty Tifiy vel Dyn^ diverfos fignificatus admittentibus (24), plurimae aliae pro diverhtate ingeniorum quibus refponfa dabantur, oriri potuerunt rerum & regionum appellationes, quae pro nominibus infulae habitae, auctoritate donatae ad noftra fervat:^ funt tempora, non abfimili modo Peru, Jucatan, Paria, tres regiones Americae eminentiores nomina accepere, quod dodliliimus Raleius affirmat & affeverat (25), etenim Hifpani digitis trans fluvium fitas terras innuentibus, & primae regionis nomen quaerentibus, Indi regeflere: Peru, quod forte nomen hujus amnis erat, aut aquam in genere denotabat in lingua his vernacula. Jucatan nec aliud quicquam fignificat, quam, ^lid aisquid tibi vis ita enim Hif- panis, rogantibus nomen loci. Barbaros (cum non intelligerant) refpon- difle ferunt, idque refponfum Hifpanos in nomen loci tranftulifle. Ter¬ tiam quod attinet regionem, eodem iflia modo nomen efl: fortita. cum Hifpani de nomine regionis quaererent, manu montes excelfos monftrantes, quidam incolarum Parda refpondit, quo vocabulo Rupesy Montesque innuuntur, ut alia ejusdem farinae exempla praeteream, quorum mentionem praeclarus hic audior injicit (26), & quae omnia ad noftrum fcopum aeque infervire poflent. Corrupta infuper genuini nominis pronuntiatio, illud ita alterare poteft, ut etymologiam omnino nullam admittat. Exempla nobis fiiit, ea quae nosmet ipfi civitatibus : Corunnae, Setubal, & Portui Liburno, tribuimus nomina, barbare eas vocantes: the Groin, Saint Ubes, Leghorn. Quot quaefo ! in linguis peregrinis voces audimus, quas ne imitari quidem, nedum accurate fcribere poflumus ? Omiferunt ifta veteres aut mutarunt nomina. Patet hoc ex hifce a Mela didlis: “ Cantabrorum aliquot populi amnesque funt, fed quorum nomina “ noftro ore concipi nequeunt.” (27). Nomina Britanniae igitur a pere¬ grinis ortum trahunt, unde genuinum nomen gentis a Regina Bonduica indicatum, inter deperdita facile numerari poflet. Sic ab Oceano Atlan¬ tico, vel Hyperboreo, in quo fita eft Britannia (28), ATLANTIA, & HYPERBOREA vocata j THULE, cum fit inter infulas notas ulti¬ ma (29) ; nomen vero ROMAN.®, Romanum plane eft. Denique error eft apud Spe DIUM (30), Somnerum (3i)> aliosque quod aflertum, quod vocabulo gentis fuce ita vocari dicunt regionem, implicet Britannicum efle nomen, nil aliud indigitat, quam infulam fle a nomine incolarum vocatam, quod ex citationibus ex clafficis auctoribus defumtis fat fuper- que demonftrari poteft (32). Hac ratione incidimus in eam ab initio quse (24) Confulas omnino Daviefium, Lhuy- dlum & Boxhornium, qui Lexica Britannicas ling, fcripferunt. ^25) Hiftory of the World, lib. I. cap. VIII. § 5. nec non &; Robinfon Annal. Mundi, pag. gy. (26) Hill, ut fupra. 1 . c. {27) De Situ Orbis, lib. III. cap. I. (28) Ptolemasus Geogr. lib. II. c. II. (29) Tranfiit (D. Paulus) Oceanum^ qua facit infula portum, ^lafque Britannus habet terras, quaf- que ultima Thule. Venantius Fortunatus, &c. (30) Hili, of Great Brit. (31) In Gloflar. ad X. Script, voce Brit. (32) Unanji tantuin exhibere volo. Inter Cn. Pompejum Cn. Yibium bumili loco natura. MONACHI LIB. I. 157 quse fubiit mentem, cogbatlonem, fcilicet, an infula Britannia aut Albion ab incolis fuerit didrla ? fi unquam infula, Britannia, aut Albion ab in¬ digenis didta eft, primo ejus Conditori, vel Subjugatori nomen debet, & in his acquiefco. Reliquae inde, a capite omnium, appellationes fuas habebunt. Brittaniam^ &c.] Modus fcribendi nominis apud Graecos aut BptTTana (33)> (34)5 V BperlxviKv (35)’ npirxt/n'x (^ 6 ), Upslxuix (37). ripfradf ( 3^)5 Bp£Tlavi(?Ef nj AVjStW (4o)> KXiSMv (4^)>& A’Aj5€»c<;> ( 42 ), 111 optimis Latinorum fcriptoribus etiam Nummis BRITANNIA H AL¬ BION habetur, in aliis aevi inferioris Britan ia (43), in Pausania (44), Beda 6c Ricardo noftro Brittania ; in Ethelwerdo, Wil¬ li e lmo Malmelburienfi, Henrico Huntingdunenfi, Rogero Hove- DENE &c. Brittannia, ncc non in faxo urbis Graetz in Stiria. Pr^f. Eqiut. Al. Brittannical (45.) Incolae aut BptrWi (46), vel Bpsrxm (47), Britanni, Brittani (4^), Britones (49), vel Brittones (50) femper fcribuntur j etiam ab iphs gentis hujus fcriptoribus: Unis Brydan^ Tnis Brydein-, Tnis Prsdain^ Tnis Brydeny Tnis Brydain^ Tnis Breatiny &c. Brithy plur. Brithion & Brytbon^ &c. Vocarentur omnes, &c.] Catullus, ni fallor, primus Romanorum eft qui BRITANNIAS in plurali numero habet, in Caefarem epig. 30. Hunc Gallia timent^ timent Britannia, Et iterum de Acme & Septimius epigr. 46. Unam Septimius mifellus Acmen Mavult, quam Syrias, Britanniasque. Poft ipfum Plinius (51) infulas Britannicas fequenti ordine enumerat: Britannia & Hibernia, XL Orcades, VII Acmodae, XXX Hebudes, item Mona, Monapia, Ricina, Vedlis, quam errans verfus occidentem fitam affirmet, [quamvis fint, qui eam inlulam ab hac diftindiam faciunt, eam fcilicet quam Ptolemaeus Ocetin vocat.] Limnus, Andros, Siambis, Axantos, deinde Gleflariae, quas Eledlrides Graeci recentioies appellavere, nec non & Thule, Miefis, Scandia, Dumna, Bergos 6c Nerigon. Johan¬ nes Chrysostomus in diverfis locis de infulis in plurali numero loquitur, nominans eas Bperhnxxi uVa? (52). VoL II. S s Brettanides natum, tantus error extitit de paribus linea¬ mentis, ut Romani Vibium Pompeji nom ne, Pompejum Vibii vocabulo cognominarent. Solinus cap I. (33) Ariftoteles, Diodorus, Strabo, Ptole¬ maeus, Agathemeius, Polyaenus, DiO, Clemens Alex. Kpitom. Strab. D. Job. Chryfo- flomus torn. III. Joan. Tzetza, &.c ■(34) Clcomedcs, Nummus Alabandensis, M. Heracleota, Chryfoftomus torn. IV V. Polyaenus, &c. (35) M. Heracleota, p. 57, 58, 59, 60, Ptolemaeus apud bteph. de urbibus. I37) M. Heracleota, p. 57, 58, 59. (38) Apud Camb Biit. p. i. (39) Dionyfius Char. Polybius, Joh. Tzetza, &;c. (40) Ariftoteles, M. Heracl p. 9, 33. (41) Ptolemaeus, Agathemerus, &c. (42) Johan. Tzetza. (43) Lucius Ampelius. (44) Lib. VllI. p. 526. (45) ApudGruter. p. CCCCLXXXIL (46) Mrabo, &c. (47) Diimyftus, &c. (48) Monachi fere omnes (49) Juvenalis Lib. V. v. 705. Martialis lib. IX. epig. 22. Infcriptiones variae. (50) [iifcrip. variae, Aufonius, &c. Ro¬ mam fuos provinciales conftanter hriiannos, dicunt; quanquam ipL piovinciales fefe Rntiones appellaii gaudeant. Buchan. Rerum Scot, lib I c. I. (51) Lib. IV. c. XVI. (52) Pag. 673. torn. III. p 676 tom. III. p. 696. tom. V. p. 63^. torn. V. p. 846. tom. VI. p. HI. tom. VlII. &c. 158 NOTiE IN mCARDl Bretfanides infula jacent circa T^hraciam^ Dua maxima omnium : prima Ib^- rnia^ Et Albion pojl ipjam. Ipfa aliarum prima. Et alia trigin/a ‘locata Orcades : Et Ehu e proxima ipfi^ alia maxima infula^ In Aparbtia Jiatum proxima vocata. E,x his imginta funt Hefperid s. Ad partes enim velpertinas fta funt Brettania (53). Verum cum duse ipfarum multo majores fint ulla ex ceteiis, hoc ipfum Aristoteli ( f;4), Dionysio (55), Agathemero (56), Apui.eio (57), 6cc. anfam praebuit, tantum harum duaium injiciendi mentionem. Hua infula funt Britanni» a-, contra Rhenum : Illic enim extremum erudiat in mare vortic m. Harum fane magnitudo immenfa : neque ulla alia Infulas inter omnes Britannicis aquatur [aequalis eft.] Qvx funt fupra didas ALBION & HIBERNIA (58). * De quibus mox paulo dicem.usb] Cap. VIII. l.bri primi p. 98. feq. III. Inter Septentriones & Occidentem^ 5 cc.] Id eib, verfus Caurum, (the NortbiVejl)^ refpedu Romae, quod bene a Johan ne Tzetza hoc verfu exprellum T’hracias perflat Brettamrum atque Ethrufeam t'egionem Romanosque -( i) Thracias vero inter Apardiam & Argeften fpirat, quem accolae etiam Ciicium appellant fecundum Agathemerum (2), & A. Gellium (3). Maxumis Europa partibusy &c.] Verfus orientem Norwagia, Dania & Germania, ad meridiem vero Gallia & Hifpania. Magno intervallo^ &c.] Melius hoc intuitu Mappae geographica faciem Europae exhibentis patebit, quam verbis defcribi poterit. Oceano A hiantico clauditurf Univerfam ipfam terram infulam efle unicam Atlantici maris ambitu circumdaram docet Aristoteles (4L Porro autem Pelagus, quod extra orbem nobis habitatum fufum eif, & Atlanticum dicitui', 5 c Oceanus a quo ipfe circumluitur. Externis autem partibus alia cognomine gerite Hfperius fatim enim Oc/ anus 'locaiury Et Pelagus Atlandcumy pars quadam ad occafum. Ad boream autem Saturnium & congelatum^ mortuumque (q.) Certum efl: Magnam Britanniam diverfis temporibus mox nomen ab hoc Oceano accepiife, mox illi idem reddidiffe. minimum hoc de parte Oceani Septentrionali Sc Occidentali, etiam ea quae ultra Fretum Gadi¬ tanum eft, valet, etenim Bi itanniam veterum elle Atlantiam, Ii unquam exftetit, pro concelTo aflumo. Sic habet Adamus Bienienfis de mari Septentiionali; (the North Sea) fermonem faciens (6): ‘ Egdoia ‘ delcendit ufque in Oceanum Frtfonicum, quem Romani feribunt Bri- ‘ tannicum. inde (the Channel^ Gallice, la Manche) ad promontorium Antiveftaeum (53) Tzetzee variae Hift. Chii. 8 . cap. CCXVI I. V. 719, &c. (54) Lib. cie Mundo cap. IU. (55) Orbis delcrip. v. 565. (56) I.ib. 11 . de Geogr. cap. IV. p. 39, (57) De Mundo Uber. (58) Dionylnas Characen. Orb. clefc. V. 566, &c. •(i) Cbfl. 8. 678. fz) Lib. I. de Geogr. c. II. p. 5. 6c Non. Manell. r. I. de prop. lermon. (3) NocSl. Attic lib II. cap. XXil. (4) Lib. cie Mundo, cap. III. (5) Johan. Tzetza, Chii. 8. 626. (6) De litu Daniae, cap. I. Vide MONACHI LIB. 1 . 159 Antiveftreum Ptolemaeus, aliiqiie Oceanum Britannicum vocant. Porro Pomponius Mela, natione Hifpanus, Pyrenaeum montem in Oceanum Britannicum procurrere dicit (7). Et Geographus Ravennas, fretum Septem-Gaditanum in Oceanum Britannicum ingredi refert (8). Qui¬ bus addimus Ricardum noftrum, qui infra, Oceanum Occidentalem, Magnum illum Britannicum, qui 8c Athlanticus Oceanus, omnia reliqua complexum maria, appellat. (9.) IV. ^ Meridie Galliam Belgicam^ Potius ab Euro. Cujus proximum littus^ &c.J Infra defcriptam cap. VI. §. 5. & cap. VII. pag. 96. d Gejjbriaco Morinorum Brittanicce gentis portUy &c.] Bononia, hodie Boulogne, vide infra pagina 96. Locus hic ausioris nohri non prius plene intelligi poteft, donec capitis XVIImi libri IVti Plinii vera leftio fuerit reftituta, quam hanc efle arbitror : Loco communiter ufitata ledlionis Ita legendum effe autumo. * Deinde Menapii, Morini, Oro- Deinde Menapii, Morini, Pae- * manfaci jundfi pago, qui Gelfo- mani (1), ac junfti pago, qui ‘ riacus vocatur: Britanni, Ambi- GelForiacus vocatur, Britanni; Am- * ani, Bellovaci, Halii. biani, Bellovaci, Ellui (2). Etenim propter defe^fum Te 61 :i fenfus loci hujus Pliniani, Harduinus Haflbs omittit, ac Dionysius Vossius Elfuos in iEduos mutat (3), cum e contrario, juxta meam emendationem, non omnia folum fmt perfpicua, verum & fine ulteriori meditatione ultimum caput libri IVti Plinii intelledtu perquam facile reddatur, ubi verba ita fonant : ‘ Po- ‘ lybius latitudinem Europae ab Italia ad Oceanum fcripfit XI. L. ‘ (1150.) M. P. etiam tum incomperta magnitudine ejus, eft autem ‘ ipfius Italiae XI. XX. (1120.) M. ad Alpes, unde per Lugdunum ad ‘ portum Morinorum Brittanicum, qua videtur menfui am agere Polybius ‘ XllI. XVIII. (1318). M.P.’ &c. quae hucusque a nimine recfe inte]le6fa fuere. Qu^omodo, & quo tempore hi Britanni in Galliam venerunt, fupereft, ut inquiramus. Caefar qui data occafione omnes Gallorum nationes enumerat, de Britannis tacet, neque de portu ipforum Gelfo- riaco loquitur, unde jure concludimus, eos Caelaris tempo, e ibi non fuilfe. Dionysius Characenus videtur primus, qui eos hoc verfu nominat (4) : - ubi Britanni-, Albaque gentes habitant martiorum Germanorum, Hercynia fyha praterfalientes montes, &c. Quod ejus commentator Eustathius Thelfalonicenfis Archiepifcopus ad Britannos continentem terram incolentes pertinere explicat, ita verba faciens: (5) “ Britannorum autem nomen ferentes funt e regione Britannicae “ infulae. ’ Hic Dionyfius a Plinio lib. IV. cap. xxvii. vocatus elt tcna- rum orbis fitus recentillimus auftor. unde patet, quod hi Britanni non diu ante fedem ibi fixerint, atque Gelforiacum aedificaverint, an veio armo¬ rum violentia fadlum fit, vel abfque ferro, ulteriori difquifitioni reli- quendum erit. M. Ilium (7) De fitu Orbis, lib. II. c. VI. (8) De Geogr. lib, IV. cap. 45. & V. cap. 4. (g) De fitu Prit. lib. I. cap. VllI. ic. (i) Caefar de Bello Gall. lib. II. cap. IV. (2) Caefar de B. G lib. V. cap. XXIII. (3) Notae in Caefar. p. 124. (4j Defcript. Orbis, v, 284, &c. (5) Edit Oxoniae Hudfon. 1717- 8. p. 50. No. I. i6o NO T/E IN IIICARDI MiUiumh. &c.] Videatur au6Vor noftercap. VII. p. 96. U''- quidani jcriffere jiadiorum CCCCL.] Antoninus in Itinerariis, & Dio Cassius (6) j juxta demenfiones recentiores menfurant 39 milli- aria Regia feu CCCL.] Stadia a Bononia, (Boulogne) ufque eo, ubi olim Ritupis fita erat. mine confpiciuntur B^ittones^ &c.] E portu jdmhleteuft\ qui veterum efl: Iccius, ora Anglise oppofita, in linea redla tantum 26 milliaria Regia diftans, ut ex dimenlionibus exadlis conftat, tota perfeCte confpici poteft. Virgilim Marod\ Latinos inter Poetas princeps, in Ecloga prima V. 67. V. Agrippa vetus orbis deferiptor)] Juliae Odt. Augufti Caefaris filiae maritus: Primus videtur inter Romanos qui corpus Geographiae con- fcripfit. Fundavit is Romae PANTHEON, veram omnis bonae archi- tediurs epitomen : De eo ejusque Commentariis Plinius hoc perhibet tefiimonium (i) : ‘ Agrippam quidem in tanti viri diligentia, praeterque ‘ in hoc opere cura, orbem cum terrarum orbi fpedfandum, propofiturus ‘ efiet, erraffe quis credat, 6c cum eo Divum Augus i um ? Is namque " complexam eam porticum ex deftinatione & commentariis M. Agrippa ‘ a forore ejus inchoatam peregit.’ Nummi ejus in curioforum reperiun- tur Mufaeis, in quibus corona navali coronatus cernitur (2), juxta illud Dionis lib. XLIX. p. 400. Latitudinem ejus CCC.] Latitudo haec ab Agrippa aflignata e tra¬ ditionibus Graecis defumta eft, fatisque bene refpondet, fi illa fumitur, qua2 inter oram Walliae & Norfolciae eft, quae fola latitudo tres circini menfuras permittit, aliae omnes latitudines Britanniae adeo funt irregulares, mappam geographicam, perfpiciatur. Dio minimum laititudinem CCC Radiorum elfe perhibet (3'. Beda vero rettius Cib.'\ Errat hic Ricardus. Verba proprie non funt ipfius Bedas, verum cGilda mutuata (4^ qui iterum ea exiErnico (5), Orosio (6;, &c. haufit. dc.cumentum hoc eR inter plura alia, quae alle¬ gari pollent, fatis fufficiens, eum nurriquam vidilfe Gildam. Dio Cas¬ sius (7) & JoRNANDEs Eplfcopus latitudinem ad MMCCCX, Stadia figit (8), quae aequalia 28875 palhbus geometricis vel CCLXXXIX mill. Rom. Marc lANUS Heracleota aliam operandi viam ingrellus, latitudinem Britannis ita metitur : ‘ Latitudo autem ejus (Albionis) incipit quidem ‘ juxta Damnonium, qu .d dicitur etiam Ocrinum promontorium; ‘ delinit vero ad Novantum Cherfonefum, & tjufdem nominis promon- ‘ torium ; adeo ut latitudo ejus juxta maximam lineam fit Radiorum ‘ MMMLXXXIII. id eR CCCLXXXVI. M. P. plus minus (9). Diverforiim promunt ori orum &c.J Quales funt Cornwaj Pembrokejhire^ Cart>arvonj}:ire^ &c. ^tadragies oBies feptuaginta quinque M, P.] Verba reperiuntur in Beda (io\ Isidoro Hifpalenfi (11), Julio Solino (12), &c. Commentator hujus vetus ita verba Soliniana explicat (13): ‘ Circuitus ‘ Britanniae (6) Hia R. lib. XXXIX. pag. 114. confulas & 1 ’h’l. Tranf. N. ig^. (1) Hift. Nat. lib lil. cap I (2) e Ehefauro Oyzeliano XXVII. Tab 12. f-xhibet Graevius in Florum p. 526. Edit. Ama 1702. 8 . M ij (3) Hia. Rom. lib. LXXVI. p. 867. (4.) Edit Havniae 1757. p. 67. U) Ci.fiuog. p. 731. Edit. Gron. (6) Hia. lib I. cap. II (7) Rom. Hia 111) LXXVI. p. 867. (8) In (jet.cis fuis (g) Vide infia, pag. 162. (10) Hia. Eccl. lib I cap. I. fi 0 Origin lib. XIV. c. VI. (12) Caput de Biit (13) Apud Salmafjum. Plin. Exercit. cap. XXlll. MONACHI LIB.I. i6i Britanniae quadragies o6lies LXXV. funt. fi quis voluerit ipfius circuitus * menfuram fcriptam ab Julio facilius intelligere ccc d occc es, five ‘ d cccc cccc es fore cognofcat. Sed li alicui tardanti ingenio haec dimen- ‘ lio non fatisfecerit, miliarios lapides elTe fingat, in quibus XXX (14) lapi- ‘ dum, & d c fimpliciter lapides fieri quis dubitabit ?’ Sequitur hunc for- fitan Ricardus nolfer Cap. II. 5. cum doffiflimo D. Smith ( 15), qui in iis, quas in Bedae paginam 40 concinnavit notas, explicat per tria millia fexingenta milliaria; error hic ell in quem plures alii viri, cetroquin optimi incidere. Duas priores figuras in ultimas ducere videntur, quod nunquam ab ullo Romanorum audtore intendi novi cum certiflimis. Sub- intelledfum tantum voluere vocabulam centena^ & hunc in modum fcripfere XL VIII. LXXV. modus loquendi erat, quafi noftra lingua diceremus (4875) Fvrty eight hundred feventy Jive milesy vel Germanice: c 0 cf)t unu tllenig fiunllErt, funf unn fieben^lo:* Aft cum maximus com¬ mentatorum numerus hoc non attenderit, inde maxima editionum Plinii pars, immo omnes, confufae reperiuntur, quippe lineolam primis litteris fuperimpofitam, quae centenarium indigitat numerum millenarium indicare, praecario afiumunt. Legitur hinc in Plinio XIII. M. XVIII. (13018.) loco XIII. XVIII. (1318.) quo ipfo, toto ccelo a vero diftant. Methodum meam redtifiimam efle apparet, fi Capellam cum Plinio cujus ille fidus eft tranfcriptor, conferimus nulla fane de certitudine ejusdem mihi fuperefi; dubium, quicquid alii in contrarium fcripferunt, cum Plin IUM ipfum a partibus meis habeam, ita dicentem : ‘ Univerfum ‘ Orbis circuitum Eratosthenes, ducentorum quinquaginta duorum * millium Stadium prodidit, quae menfura Romana computatione efficit ‘ trecenties quindecies centena millia pafTuum (16).’ Et verum id quidem, nam Stadium CXXV paifibus confiat (17). proinde fi 252,000 per 125 multiplices, fiunt 31500,000 pafiimm. Marcianus author Gracus.^ Auftor fupranominatus, ex Heraclea Ponti oriundus, unde Heracleota diflus, reliquit nobis Periplum per- curiofum, quem Hudson nofier lingua Graeca, addita verfione fua Latina, publici juris fecit. Reperies illum in volumine I. Geographia veteris fcriptorum Graecorum minorum, Oxonii e Theatro Sheldon. 1698. 8. quae de infulis Britannicis habet ex Ptolem^o & Protagora defumta videntur. Locus vero quem Ricardus nofier refert, efi pag. 59. ubi univerfa, inquit, ‘ peripli totius Albionis infulae fiadia non * plura 28604. id efi 3575. M. P. & dimidium, non pauciora fiadiis * 20526. five 2576. M. P. fere,’ inde patet audlorem nofirum majorem numerum recepiffe. mdidolxxv milUaria!\ Qui Monachus nofier in hunc mirum com- putum inciderit, non video, cum nunquam fimile quid invenerim. Mentem ejus capere non potuiflem, ni Marcianum in hoc fibi con- fentientem appellalfet. Jam audior hic, ut nuper didlum, duplum affert numerum, quorum maximus 3575 Milliaria cum dimidio com- pledlitur. unde liquet M.D. a numero iodlxxv. fubtrahenda elTe fic : 5075—1500= 3575 - (14) XXX oportet legere. (i6) Nat. Hift. lib. II. cap. CVIII. (15) Editor Bedze oper, Cantabr. 1722, (17) Cenforinus de Die Nat. cap. XIII. Fol. Maj. T t VOL. II. NOTiE i 62 no: IN RICARDI N O T I N C A P. II. 1 . "T^rittaiiia Magna^ &c.] Ab Aristide Rhetore fimpliciter MAGNA vocata INSULA, (i) etiam a prifcis Hiberniae incolis (2). jam vero peraftis tot feculis, totque revolutionibus ac mutationibus vetus fuum nomen MAGNiR BRITANNIA hodie vindicavit. A Chryfojihomo authore Graco.] Probabiliter Dronem Prufseum Chryfoftomum cognominatum celebrem Oratorem putat, contempo¬ raneum Trajano Imperatori, ejusque triumphi participem (3), qui in Geticis fuis, vel aliis operibus jam deperditis id aifertum ivit. In epitome Strabonis a Hudson e publicata Uol. II. (4) epitheton Magnae reperio pag. 21 & 38. additum ab Epitomatore. verum inde concludere Chryfoftomum hunc appellari nimiae foret audaciae, verum eft, Johan- NEM Chrysos TOMUM in plurimis fcriptis fuis Britannicarum infu¬ larum injicere mentionem, nufquam vero adjunxit Britanniae ipfi co¬ gnomen Magns, nili aciem oculorum meorum effugerit (5). Natura triqtiefra^ &c.] ‘ Inter Septemtrionem & Occidentem pro- ^ jedta, grandi angulo Rheni oftia profpicit, deinde obliqua retro latera abErahit, altero Galliam, altero Germaniam fpedtans ; tum rurfus ‘ perpetuo margine diredli littoris ab tergo abdudta, iterum fe in diverfos ‘ angulos cuneat triquetra, & Siciliae maxime fimilis, plana, ingens, * fecunda,’&c.(6). Opinioa Casare accepta (7), & plurimis, qui eum fequuntur, audloribus propagata, verbi caufa, a Diodoro (8), Stra¬ bone (9), &c. Unum latus ejl contra Galliam Celticam^ &c.] Id eft, tota Britanniae ora Meridionalis ad Canalem Britannicum fita & Galliae oppofita, juxta verba audtoris, ex Caesare (io) defumta. Ad Cayitium:, &c.J Infra lib. I. cap. VI. § 5. & 7. deferibitur ; vulgo, the North Foreland of Kent. Ad Ocrinwn^ &c.] Infra lib. I. cap. VI. § 16. ejus mentionem facit, liodie the Lizard Pointy navigantibus notiffimum. Ad jneridiem & Hijpaniam Parracon .*] Revera ita eft, vergit enim in linea redla ad Cabo de las Pennas. Illuftrat hoc Agathemerum, qui lib. II. cap. IV. de Geographia, ita loquitur: ‘ Albion, in qua caftra etiam ‘ exftruda, maxima et longilTima eft. fiquidem incipiens a feptentrionibus ^ accedit medium Tarraconenfis, adorientem ufque ad media ferme Ger- ‘ mani^.’ Millia Pqff'. D.] Secundum dimenfiones recenter fadlas 367 milliaria Anglicana Regia dimenfa (ii), quie CCCC Romana efficiunt, hccc lon¬ gitudo eft lateris, quam Ri card us nofter infra ei tribuit. Attamen illa a CASARE tradita longitudo non eft nimia, parumque a vero aberrans, fi per ambages oras maritimas menfuraverimus, refpedtu ejus quam Dio¬ dorus exhibet VII. M. D. Stadiorum (12), aut DCCCC.XXXVII. miniarium cum dimidio, aut Strabonis VM. Stadiis (13), quse tamen DCXXV. milliaria Romana funt. II. Alterum latus^ &c.] Latus Occidentale Britannise. Vergit ad Plyberniam^ &c.] Cum e diametro oppofitum fit oris oc¬ cidentalibus Albionis. (1) Tn oratione ^Egyptiaca. (2) Ogyg. p. ir, 12, &c. Inis Mor. apud Cambd. Brit. p. 6. (h.) (3) Philoftr. Dion. (4) Geogr. feript. Gisecorum min. 8. Oxonia; 1703. (5) Vide lupra, pag. 157. N. 52. (6) Mcla de iitu Orbis, lib, III, cap. VL Veterum 'i* (7) Comment, de B. G. lib. V. c. XIII. (8) Bibiioth. Hift. lib. V. c. XXI. (g) Geogr. lib. IV. p. igg. (10) De Bell. Gal. lib. V. cap. XlII. (11) Philof. Tranf. N 330. pag. 266. (12) Bibi. Hift. lib. V. cap. XXL (13) Geogr. lib. II. pag. 63, Si 128. MONACHI LIB. I. Veterum opinio, &c.] Caesar ita habet ; ut fert illorum opinio (i), vel Britannorum, vel potius mercatorum, aut Druidum Gallicorum, certus fum, eum hoc e Graecis non haufilTe fcriptoribus. DCC. Mill. Palf.\ Diodorus Siculus vocat hoc ultimum latus, ejusque longitudini afcribit XXM ftadia (2) vel MMD. M. P. P^i car¬ dus infra in proxima fedlione M. milliarium eife dicit, & Strabo unicuique lateri Britanniae circiter IVM.CCC vel IVM.CCCC. ftadia affignat (3). Si per ambages computamus, longiflimum omnino latus infulae eft, licet non excedat 1070 milliaria. III. Septemtriones.'] Notiffima feptentrionalis conftellatio, ab aftrono- mis Urfa major didta, quam, Homero audlore, XJrJamque, quam & Plaujirum cognomine vocant, ibidem vertitur ^ Oriona obfervat: Sola autem expers ejl undarum Oceani (1). Cui parti nulla efl objeBa, &c.] Scilicet toti infulae acervo hodie fub nominibus Orkney, Hitland, Ferro, noto. Ad Germaniam magnam, 5 cc.] Ita a Graecis di6tam. comprehendebat haec hodiernum Germaniae Imperium, Belgium, Daniam, Norve- giam, 5 cc. Novantum cherfonefo.'] Defcriptam hanc vide Cap. IV. § 40. hodie the Mule of Galloway in Scotia, locus maximae verfus meridiem vergens, quem credidere extremam partem feptentrionalem hujus Regni falfo veteres (2). Ita eos emendavimus. Per faixalorum regionis angulum.^ Similiter defcriptum infra cap. VI. 46. hodie Bucha?2efs. DCCC. M. P. &c.] Quod Diodorus alterum a freto ad verticem affurgens latus, ftadiurn XVM. habere dicit (3). id eft, MDCCCLXXV. Mill. pafT. quod erronee Monachus nofter ad MMCC. evehit, qua nifus audloritate, non conftat. Om 7 ies, &c.] Certe non alius, praeter Cfefarem ejusque fequaces vel tranfcriptores. C.^sar vero, quod notatu dignum eft, a Druidibus didicit, etenim vicies centena Mill. pafT. ab hoc Imperatore allignatus circuitus compledtitur (4), nullum vero ipfo tempore pofteriorum invenimus in hoc ipfi confentientem, licet is proxime ad veritatem accefferit, immo Diodorus ipfi contemporaneus 53124 M. P. ftatuit (5). Strabo, Augufto irnperante florens 17124 habet (6), verum, quod dolendum ! textus totus eft corruptus, & mutilatus in hac defcriptione, quod ex ejusdem libro fecundo videri poteft, ex quo etiam textus par- tim fupplendus (7). Plinius fub Vefpafiano, ex Isi doro Characeno tricies ofties viginti quinque (8), aut 3825 M. P. habet. Sequitur ipfum fideliter M. Capella (9). In So lino, qui Conftantini tempore vixit, quadragies odties feptuaginta quinque (ut fupra) leguntur (10), quod ex errore Ri cardus nofter MMM CCCCCC interpretatur. Py- THEAS Mafiilienfis ambiturii infulae majorem efie XLM. Stadia feu 5000 M. P. fecundum Strabonem (ii), quod monftrat Plinium emen¬ dandum effe, ubi Pythiae computum Ifidori calculo aequalem dicit (12), vel potius hunc, ni utrumque omifit. Sed (1) De Bell. Gall. lib. V. cap. XIIL (2) Bibi. Hili. lib. V. c. XXI. (3) Geogr. lib. IV. p. 199. (i) Iliad 2 . 487- ( 6 ) Geogr. lib. IV. p. 199. {7) Ibid. lib. II. p. 128. (8) N. H. lib. IV. -c. XVI. (9) Lib. IV. p. 215. (10) Gap. de Brit. (2) Ptolemaeus, &c. (3) Bibi. Hift. lib. V. c. XXL (4) De Bell. Gall. lib. V. cap. XIIL (5) Bibi. HilV. lib. V. cap. XXL (11) Geogr. lib. II. p. 104. (12) N. H. lib. IV. c. XVL i 64 NOT^ in mCARDI Sed err &c.] Atque in id genus rebus vix atque vix ulla eft via evitandi errores. Rationem cur & veteres & recentiores in emetiendo regionum circuitus diflentientes adeo inveniamus, indicat nobis Plinius dicens (13).—‘ quae cauta magnos errores computatione menfurae faepius ‘ parit & dum alibi mutato provinciarum modo, alibi itinerum audlis * aut diminutis paffibus, incubuere maria tam longo aevo, alibi procellere * iittora, torfere fe & fluminum aut correxere flexus. Praeterea aliunde ‘ aliis exordium menfurae eft, & alia meatus; ita fit, ut nulli duo con- ‘ cinant.’ CCCC. M. P.] Diftantia haec, fi de ea quae in linea redta promontoria duo, quorum fafta eft mentio, interjacet, exadtiflima omnium, quarum mentionem injiciunt veteres, videtur efle j verum fi dimenflo intelligitur, quae ad Canalem fitae funt, orarum maritimarum, manifefto nimis parva eft, & correctio locum heic non habet, cum accurata congruat cum D. M, P. Caelaris. Docl. N. Grew aflerit, inde a promontorio meridi¬ onali Cantii, the South Foreland, ad promontorium Antiveftaeum, the Land's End, efte 367 perambulatore menfurata (u'heel-meafured) milli- aria (14), quae plus minus aequalia funt CCCCI. Mill. Palf. M. Mill. Pajf. &c.] Unde Ri cardus nofter, has correfliones hauferit, nifi ex fcholiis quibusdam Casaris, Soli ni, Bed^e, &c. conjedluratu perquam difficile, praecipue cum ipfum Cap. I. § 5. cum Marciano Heracleota confentientem, jam vero diflentientem videamus, etenim auctor, ut fupra(i5) diximus, diftantiam, quae in linea re6ta eft Ocrinum inter & Novantum 386 M, P. ponit id quod Monachus nofter ad 1000 evehit, qui numerus fere triplo major eft. Quod ad totum, quem ftatuit, circuitum numeris rotundis MMMCCCCCC complexum attinet, cum tantum ad XXV. M. P. excedat priorem 3575 miniarium nullam meretur ifta differentia attentionem, me judice Benediftinus nofter fidelis videtur compilator, & bono animo praeditus, verum talis, qui nunquam ultimam limam admovit commentariolo fuo, licet memoriae minus fideli iaborafle nec accuratum fatis fuiffe non cre¬ dam, defeCtus vero iftius rationem difceptationem eum inter & Antiftitem fuum, de qua terminis fatis patheticis loquitur pagina 95, 103, & 106, fuifle credo. Inde conftat, cur Silures Hifpaniam verfus habitare doceat, in quo Tacito fequitur (16), verum perfuafus fum, fi opus fuum attente reviferit, Mappam ejus ipfi errorem omnem eripuifie. verum autem vero, quid dicatur in excufationem celebris cujusdam auftoris ex recentioribus, qui Herculis promontorium in parte Devoniae verfus Caurum (the North JVeJl) collocat, narratque illud a litu in hac infulae parte, quae Herculis columnas feu Gades refpicit (eodem jure Caput bonae fpei dixilfet) nomen cepiiTe (17). Attamen fi de Ocrino dixiifet illud, ejus in gratiam, licet impropriifiime didtum, admittere tamen potu- iffemus. IV. Formam totius Brittanire, &c.] Formae regionibus tributae mere funt imaginariae, e fruftifera fpedlatorum imaginatione refultantes, cum ipfae propter inaequalitates partium perfeftae figurae fmt incapaces. Sic ubi videmus Strabonem Orbem univerfum chlamydi affimilare (i), Dio¬ nysium eum fundae fimilem fingere (2), Strabonem Hifpaniae pellis bovinae fpeciem afcribere (3), Polybium Italiae formam trigoni, Plinium (13) N. H. lib. III. c. I. (14) Philof. Tranf. N. 330. p. 266. (15) P. 79. & i6r. (16) Vita Agricol$, c. II. (17) N. Salmon’s New Survey of Eng¬ land, vol, II. p. 841. (1) Geogr. lib. II. p. I18, & i22. (2) Defcriptio Orbis, v. 7. (3) Geogr. lib, II. p. 127, Sc 137. MONACHI LIB. I. Pun IUM & SoiiNUM querno folio fimilem referre (4), Livium Bri tanniae noftrae fcutulae figuram (5), Fabium bipennis (6), & Alsherif Aledresy (aut G^iographum Nubienfem) Strutiocameli fimilitudinem tribuere (7), condonare illis, aequique 6c boni illud confulere decet, nec iis folum verum & recentioribus qui Angliam, armum ovillum (a JJdoul- der of mutton) Galliam, uropygium bovis (a 7 ‘ump of beej) Hiberniam, peltam Amazonicam; Iflandiam, affellum {a fock fifh) infigne hujus infulae j Cimbricam cherfonefum, linguam caninam j Belgium, leonem exfilientem j Italiam, ocream ; totam Europam, virginem j Americam, clepfydram, &c. reprefentare dicunt. Sed Cafarcy &c.] Ita etiam Diodorus Siculus (8), Strabo Cappa¬ dox (9), Pomponius Mela (io), &c. eam triquetrae vel triquadrae dixere fimilem ; qucd licet non omnino flride fatis congruat, attamen optime hac figui'a geometrica complexam dixeris. Linea a Cantio ad Antiveftaeum dudta eft bafis 367 milliarium, duplum hujus longitudinis detur utrique cruri in Fet^ro Head promontorio, five Cape Wreath termi¬ nato, A ifofceles 1835 milliarium menfuratorum in circuitu compleftens habes, monftrans geometricum circuitum Magnae Britanniae, tantum ad unum milliare a celeberrimi Cam bde ni computo aliis operationibus nixo (ii), differentem, quod ipfum notatu eft digniffimum. Falam eft figuram hanc totam fuperficiem infulae continere 134689 milliaribus quadratis, cum, quae in mari exftant, partes cum iis quae mari ingrefibm permittunt, accuratiflime mire congruant. Additur jam fuperficies unius cruris, propter crenatas orarum incifiones, quod, experientia tefte, nimium non eft, integer circuitus Albionis geographicus prodibit aequalis 2569 milliaribus Regiis : five vicies odlies centenis novem millibus pafluum, id eft 2809 milliaribus Romanis, quod mihi cogitandi anfam praebet, Plinii tricies odiies vigintiquinque M. P. corrigenda effe 12), ut fint vicies o6ties vigintiquinque, tuneque remanet tantum differentia XVL M. P. quam pro nihilo omnino reputare licet. V. Si Ptolemaoy &c.] Claudius Ptolemy us Aftronomus & Geo- graphus celeberrimus, (Patriae Pelufiota), qui & Alexandrini nomen fert, non quod Alexandriae natus fit, fed quia obfervationes fuas ibi inftituit. Ric ARDUS nofter fimul cum aliis Monachis eum Regem iEgypti facit (i). fcripfit ille IIX libros Geographiae, quibus aliorum fui temporis errores correxit. Liber II. III. IV. V. & VI. fi non integrum opus, videntur non efte nifi corrupta & jejuna epitome, rationes, quae huc faciunt, non funt hujus loci, innituntur vero, iis, quae occurrant in Marciano Jor- nande(2), Ravennate, &c. VoL. II. U u hitter am (4) Polybius lib. II. p. 142. Plin. N. H. •lib. III. c. V. Solinus c. VllI. (5) Hift. Rom. lib. CV. apud Tacitura. Vita Agr. c. X. (6) Apud Tacitum, 1 . c. (7) Climat. VII. part. II. p. 272. (8) Bibi. Hift. lib. V. c. XXL (9) Geogr. lib. IV. p. 199. (10) De fitu Orbis, lib. III. c. VI. (11) Noftra autem zetas ex multis mul¬ torum Itineribus certam quodammodo totius infulae jam deprehendit dimenfionem, a Tarvifw enim circumactis curvatisque lit- toribus per occafum ad Belerium plus minus DCCCXII mill. pair, numerantur, inde con- verfa in auftrum littoris fronte ad Cantium CeeXX rnill. paff. Hinc fecundum Ger¬ manicum mare angulofis receftibus per DCCIIII. mill, pair, ad ’Tarvifturn proten¬ ditur, ut hac ratione totius infulae ambitus MDCCCXXXVJ. mill, collipt. Briu p. 2. id eft, 2140 milliarla Regia Statutaria. (12) N. Hift. lib. IV. c. XVL (1) Supra, p. 90 & 100. Anonymus Ra- venn. Geogr. lib. IV. cap. iv. & xi. Frontem codicis, qui in Biblioth. D. Marci Venetiis extat, ornat effigies Ptolemaei, veftitu regio induti, impofita capiti corona, error eft, non¬ nullis quoque viris recentioris ac medii «vi. Symoni Grynaeo in Prajfat. ad Almageftum Bafileae 153B. &c. &, ut Voffius de Scient. Mathemat. p. 162. teftatur, ante eum aliis. (2) Lib. de rebus Geticis- i66 NOT^ IN RICARDI Litteram Z fed inverfam, &c.] Hoc ipfiffimum illud videtur, quod Tacitus fupra, per immenfum & enorme fpatium indigitat, C^SARque innuit, dicens, lateris orientis angulum maxime ad Germaniam fpe6lare(3), qus opinio in tantum invaluit, ut etiam ad feculum XlVtum firma man- ferit. Apparet hoc ex illo Gemm^ Fry si i, de Orbis divifione cap. IV. ‘ Contendunt, inquit, hic multi, praecipue noftri faeculi, Geographi, ‘ fuperiorem angulum Scotiae non eo modo in ortum prominere quem- ‘ admodum Ptolemaeus ac noftri Globi defcriptio habet. Verum his * (quam nihil habeant, quo id edocere poflint) temere fides adhibenda * non eft, imo ipfimet Scoti, nobis inquirentibus, in orientem folem latus * extare, fefii funt. Hi e Scylla Charybdin incidentes, polos mutatos elie fupponunt (4), unde iis ceu melius fundamentum cum fuper aedi¬ ficent fuam Theoriam, notam meam pag. 154. N. b/. commendatam volo. Mapparum hifpeBiod] Propriam verofimiliter putat audior, fed aliter fentiunt noftri aevd eruditi (5}. Ut caput hoc completum reddamus in defcribendis oris Albionis fubfiftimus, ut jam a Ptolem.$o defcriptae funt (6), ad minimum in iis, quae nomen ejus habent, libris, partes interiores, notasque refervaturi donec ad loca, quorfum pertinent, pervenerimus. ALBIONIS INSULA BRITANNIAE SITUS. Septentrionalis lateris defcriptio, quod alluit Oceanus, qui vocatur Deucaledo- nius. Novantum Cherfonefus, & ejus¬ dem nominis promontorium habet Longit. 21 00 Lat, 6 i 40 MuIl of Galloway Rerigonius Sinus 20 30 60 45 Loch Rian Vidotara Sinus 21 20 60 30 Air Bay Clota aiftuarium 22 15 59 40 Clyd Mouth Lelannonius Sinus 24 00 60 40 Loch Fyn Epidium promont. 23 00 60 40 Mull of Cantyr ^Longi fluv. oftia 24 00 60 40 Loch Long Itys fluv. oftia 27 00 60 00 Loch Etyf Volfas Sinus 20 00 60 30 Loch Toll Nabaei fluv. oftia 30 00 60 30 Tarvedum, quod Orcas promontorium 31 20 60 15 Occidentalis lateris defcriptio, quod Iber- nicus ac Vergi vius alluit Oceanus. Poft Novantum Cherfonefum quae habet 21 00 61 40 Navern River Dungsby Head Midi of Galloway Abravanni fluv. oft. 19 20 61 00 Glenluce Bay Jenae sftuarium 19 00 60 30 Wigtown Bay Devae fluv. oftia 18 00 60 00 Dee River Novii fluv. oftia 18 20 .. 59 30 Nith River Ituna reftuarium 18 30 58 45 Eden Mouth, or Solway Fyrth Moricambe aeftuar. 17 30 58 20 Can River Mouth. Setantiorum portus 17 20 57 45 Lancafer. Belifama (3) De Bell. Gall. lib. V. c. XIII. (5) Vide Dr. Stukeley’s Caraufiirs, p. 134 (4) Vide Hotiley’s Britannia Romana, i6g, &c. p. 361. nec non Philof, Tranfadl. No. 190, (6) Geogr. lib, II. c, III. 241, 255. MONACHI LIB. I 167 0 / 0 / Belifama aeftuarium 17 3 ^ 57 20 Seteia aeftuarium 17 00 57 00 Toifobii fluv. oft. ^5 40 56 20 Cancanorum prom. 15 00 56 00 Stuciae fluv. oftia 15 20 55 3 ^ Tuerobii fluv. oft. 15 00 55 00 Odtapitarum prom. H 20 54 3 ° Tobii fluv. oftia 15 3 ° 54 3 ° Ratoftathybii fluv. oft. 16 30 54 3 ° Sabriani aeftuar. 17 20 54 30 Vexala asftuar. 16 00 53 3 ° Herculis promont. H 00 53 00 Antiveftaeum promont. quod etiam dicitur Bolerium 11 00 52 30 Damnonium quod etlam dicitur Ocrinum promontor. 12 00 5^ 3° Reliqui Meridionalis lateris defcriptio, quod Britannicus Oceanus alluit. Poll Ocrinum promontorium Cenionis fluv. oftia Tamari fluv. oft. Ifacae fluv. oft. Alaini fluv. oft. Magnus Portus Trifantonis fluv. oft. Novus Portus Cantium promontor. 14 00 15 40 17 00 17 40 19 00 20 20 21 00 22 00 51 45 52 10 52 20 52 40 53 00 53 00 53 3 ^ 54 00 Orientalis deinde ac auftralis plagas latera, quae Germanico alluuntur Oceano, defcribuntur. Poft Tarvedum, quod& Orcas prom. quod di6tum eft Virvedrum promontorium 31 00 60 00 Berubium promontor. 30 30 59 40 Ilae fluv. oft. 30 00 59 40 Ripa alta prom. 29 00 59 40 Loxae fluv. oft. 28 30 59 40 Vara aeftuar. 27 30 59 40 Tuaefls aeftuar. 27 CO 59 CO Celnii fluv. oft. 27 00 58 45 Taizalum promontor. 27 30 58 30 Divae fluv. oft. 26 00 5 ^ 30 Tava aeftuar. 25 00 5 ^ 30 Tinnae fluv. oft. 24 30 58 45 Boderia aeftuar. 22 30 58 45 Alauni fluv. oft. 21 40 5 ^ 30 Vedras fluv. oft. 20 10 58 30 Dunum Sinus 20 IC 57 30 Gabrantuicorum portuofus finus 21 00 57 00 Rihble River Merfey River Conwey River Brachpuit Point Dovye River Tyvi River Phe Bijkop and Clarks Povy River Wye River Severn Sea Huntspil Water Hart land Point Land'’s End Lizard Point Valle River P’amar River Ex River Chriji Church Bay Portfmouth Arundel River At Eajiborne North Foreland Nofs Head Ord Head Fyrth of Dornogh^ or Payne Perbaert Nefs Fyrth of Cromartie Fyrth of Invernefs Spey River Dovern River Kynaird's Head' Dee River Pay River Edin River Fyrth of Forth Alne River Were River Pees Mouth Bridlington Bay Ocellum 1.68 NOT^ IN RICARDI, &c Ocellum promontor. O t 21 15 0 / 56 40 Spurn Head Abi fluv. oft. 21 00 56 30 Humber Rher Metaris seftuar. 20 30 55 40 The WaJJoes Garryeni fluv. oftia 21 00 55 20 Tare River 21 15 55 05 Eajlon Nefs Idumanii fluv. ofl: 20 IO 55 10 Bay near Maldon Jamifla aeftuarium 20 30 54 30 Thames Mouth Pofl: quam Cantium efl: promontorium 22 00 54 00 North Foreland PLURA ALIBL THE WEDDINGS. T here is an old proverb common in SomerfetOiire, “ Stanton Drew, a mile from Pensford, another yrm Chue;” which fhould denote fome peculiar regard and excellence in that town, and direction for the ready finding it: and in fadt it highly deferves to be celebrated, upon account of that remarkable monument, vulgarly called the Wed¬ dings, whofe name only is but juft known to the curious and learned world. To redeem it from further obfcurity, I took a journey thither from the Bath in July 1723, where calling on my friend Mr. Strachey, a worthy fellow of the Royal Society, and who has ihewn his knowledge in his nice remarks upon the neighbouring coal-mines, we made men- furations of this notable work together. I find it is the moft confider- able remnant of the ancient Celts v/hich I yet know, next to Stonehenge and Abury. Mr. Aubrey, that indefatigable fearcher-out of antiquities, is the firft that has obferved it; and I believe Mr. Strachey, living near the place, is the firft that meaftired it, fince the original ground-line was ftretched upon the fpot. To open a more exadl view of this noble an¬ tiquity, obferve we that there is a little ftream runs into the Avon between Bath and Briftol, called Chue, arifing near here at a fynonymous town, and firft palfes under a ftone bridge at Stanton Drue, where making a pretty turn, as it were, half inclofing our monument, a lit¬ tle further it comes to Pensford ; which is an old Britilh name, for it is written Pennis-ford, Fen ife fignifying the head of the river. It was a common ufage among all ancient nations, fo with our anceftors, to pay a facred reverence to the fountains of rivers, and frequently were they fought for upon religious occafions, judging a divinity muft needs refide where fo beneficial an element takes its rife. The road from Pens¬ ford to Chue goes along the north fide of the river and there, half a mile above, and half a mile below the bridge, lie two great ftones, called Hautvil’s Coyts, according to the apprehenfion of the common people, faid to be pitched there by Sir John Hautvil, of thefe parts, a famous champion, of whom legends are printed under the name of Sir John Hawkwell, as vulgarly pronounced. Thefe ftones now lie flat upon the ground by the road fide, but faid to have been ftanding, and much larger than they are at prefent; for fome pieces have been knocked off. We meafured that toward Pensford 13 foot long, 8 broad, and 4 thick, being a hard reddifli ftone. Stanton Drue church bears here fouth-w^eft. What regard this has to the temple which it overlooks on the other fide the river, and from higher ground, I cannot fay; whether it is the remnant (together with the former) of fome avenue, or whether it was carried thither, or laid for fome diredlion to thofe that lived on that fide the river. Repaffing the bridge, and entering the inclofures eaft of the church which belong to a farm there, we come to the Weddings. Here is an old manor-houfe adjacent, which has been a caftle ; for the walls are crenated, and fome half-moons built to it. The farm-houfe is an old ftone building, faid to have been a nunnery, probably founded VoL. II. X X by 170 THE WEDDINGS. by fome pious lady of the manor. There is a great hall in it, open to the deling, handfomely made of timber work, and two arched v^^indows with mullions on each lidej and all the windows of the houfe are arched in the fame manner : at the eaft end is a winding ftone ftair-cafe, and near it, in the yard, an elegant ftone dove-cote, round, with fix buttrelfes. This houfe, with the church and that part of the grounds which is the ftte of our monument, is a knoll of rifing ground, of an oval form, ftretched out with a whole broad fide againft the river, half embracing it with a cir¬ cular fv/eep, and but little fpace between it and the river j and that ftde from the river has a delicate acclivity or valley winding round it, anfwer- able to the river. The longer axh of this knoll is from north-eaft to foLith-weft : the major part of it declines manifeftly gently toward the river, or northward, and is finely guarded from the north winds by a ridge of hills adjacent; upon the fummit of which is an ancient for¬ tification, called Miz knoll, in the road to Briftol: this is a pleafant place, full of hedges and trees growing very tall, elpecially elms. The coun¬ try is ftoney, covered over with a reafonable liratum of fandy ground, mixed with clay, which is rich enough. One would imagine this knoll was pitched upon by the founders for the fake of its figure, and becaule capable of giving a fufficient ftability to their work : its declivity carries off the rain, always regarded in this manner of building j for that would loofen the foundations. Here is a fine large area between the temples, for the rites of facrifice, &c. I wondered that I obferved no tumuli-, or barrows, the burying-places of the people about it, as in other cafes, but fuppofe it owing to the goodnels of the foil; for they wifely pitched upon barren ground to re- pofe their allies, where they could only hope to lie undifturbed : and on Mendip hills, not far off, they are very numerous. This particu¬ larly I am told of feven that are remarkable. This monument about ten years ago muft have made a moft noble appearance, becaufe then perfed:. it feems the nuns, and all the pofleffors of the eftate, had left it un¬ touched till a late tenant, for covetoufnefs of the little fpace of ground they ftood upon, buried them for the moft part in the ground : he was juftly punilhed, for the grafs at this time will not grow over them, but withers, becaufe there is not a fufficient depth of earth ; however, for the pleafure of the curious, it is not difficult to retrieve its original figure from what remains. It is the general cafe of fine monuments, in their perfect ftate difregarded and obfcure, but their ruins are carefied and adored : and this was really an elegant monument, and highly worth vifiting, and claims an eminent place in the hiftory of Celtic temples. The monument confifts of four diftinft parts, three diftant circles, and a cove. The ftone it is compofed of, is of fuch a kind as I have not elfewhere feen ; certainly intirely different from that of the country, which is a ftab kind. If any ftone ever was, this would tempt one to think it factitious, though I think nothing lefs : it looks like a pafte of flints, flrells, cryftals, and the like folid coi'pufcles crowded together and cemented, but infallibly by Nature’s artifice. The long current of years paffing over it, and its moft perifhable parts being wafted away, leaves the reft much corroded externally, and as it were worm-eaten by dint of time: yet of itfelf it will ftand for ever ; for its texture is extremely hard, and beyond that of marble, at leaft thofe of Marlborough downs. If I have any judgement, by oft furveying thefe kind of works, and with a nice eye, I guefs by ts prefent appearance, and confideration of its wear, to be T H E ' W E D D I N G S. 171 be older than Abury and Stonehenge. One v/ould think, from its dulky and rufty colour, that it is a kind of iron ftone; it is very full of fiuors and tranfparent cryftallifations, like Briftol ftones, large, and in great lumps; lo that it fliines eminently, and reflects the fun-beams with great luftre. I cannot but think that it is brought from .St. Vincent’s rock, near the mouth of Briftol river, as Mr. Aubrey fays exprefty ; though Mr. Strachey, who has curioufly obferved every thing of this kind, can¬ not affirm it: and if its comes no further, we may well admire at the ftrength and manner requifite to-convey them hither over that rocky country, wholly conftfting of hills, and dales, and woods: but the notion of religion fully anfwers all difficulties ; and the founders well provided for the perpetuity of their work, in the eledlion of their mate¬ rials. I found fome ftone like this by the fea fide, this fummer, at Southampton j and the walls of the town are moftly built of it. The ftones in our work are apparently very fliapely, and fquared, though with no mathematical exaftnefs, that is, not hewn with a tool, but rather, as we may fuppofe, broke by flints, and a great ftrength of hand, in thofe early ages, when iron tools were not found out: the greateft number of the ftones are now vifible, either ftanding, fallen, or buried in the ground by the perfon before mentioned j the places of fuch for the moft part are apparent enough, the grafs growing but poorly above, as we faid before, ib that the purpofe of interring them is defeated, and more grafs loft by their lying than when they ftood in their places. Many may be found by knocking with one’s heel upon the fpot, whence there is a found j others, by thrufting an iron rod into the earth. The fpecies of the ftone renders it ufelefs to be wrought up in building, efpe- cially in this country, that abounds with more manageable ftone for the purpofe. From the regular figures of the ftones, as well as their order of pofiture, the eyes of a fpedtator would have been charmed with the fight of this work when in perfection, and the whole plain open to the view: at prefent they are feparated by hedge-rows, yards, orchards, and the like j and the perfons that laid them out have aukwardly cut them off by the middle, or by fegments : the great fingle circle now ftands in no lefs than three fields, and the other great concentric circles have a ditch and quickfet hedge running acrofs one fide : the lefler circle is divided in the middle, one half remaining in a pafture, the other among the apple-trees in an orchard. The cove ftands in the middle of another orchard by the church and farm-houfe, which we faid was a nunnery, as tradition goes. The idea upon which fome of thefe ftones are formed, is different from any I have obferved elfewhere. Abury and Stonehenge, and all others yet come to my knowledge, are broad ftones : thefe are fquare, or what we may call pilafters ; I mean thofe of the innermoft circle, or cell, of what I name the Planetary temple : the reft are all of equal dimenfions, being fix foot broad, nine high, and three thick; fo that their bafe is a double cube, their length a cube and a half, which fhows fufficiently that the builders of this work, as in all others of the like, ftudied pro¬ portion, whence beauty flows. The ftones of the outer circle at Stone¬ henge are of the fame model as to the bafe, but higher upon the breadth, being likewife a double cube. I underftand all the while in our monu¬ ment, that thefe are Celtic feet, for fuch I found them, and by that fcale is the conftruction of the whole : alfo what I fpeak of is their meafure above ground j for I did not defire to indulge a dangerous curiofity in fearching TAB. LXXVIII. 172 THE WEDDINGS. fearching how deep they are fet in the ground, which has been too fatal already in thefe antiquities. The four parts which make up this monument, as we faid, are the cove, two fingle circles, and a quincuple circle. The cove, as moft commonly, confifts of three ftones, fet in a half-moon figure, or, to be more exaft, upon the end of an ellipfis^ whofe focus, I fuppofe, would be in a line upon the foremoft edges of the two wings. This is fituate in the fouth-wefi; part of the oval knoll of ground that contains the whole; at prefent in an orchard fouth of the church, and weft of the nunnery before mentioned. The wings are ftanding, but much diminiihed by age or violence ; fome great pieces being broke off: the ftone on the back is fallen down, being a larger one: it is 13 foot long, and 8 broad j therefore of the fame dimenfions with Hautvil’s Coyt, before fpoken of. This cove opens to the fouth-eaft. Four hundred foot from this, going eaftward, and with an angle of 20 degrees fouth- ward, in another orchai'd eaft of the dove-cote, is a leffer lingle circle, which is 120 foot diameter: this ftands upon the fouthern fide of the knoll, and confifts of 12 ftones, confequently fet at the interval of 30 foot, the fame as thofe of the circles at Abury. Here are all the ftones left upon the fpot, but proftrate, half being within the hedge, half without. This I call the Lunar Temple. This circle is the fame dia¬ meter and number of ftones with the inner circles of the two temples in tb.e work at Abury. Five hundred foot diftant from this, going north- eafterly, viz. with an angle of 20 degrees northerly from the eaft, and acrofs the orchard, and a pafture, is the circumference of the greater fingle circle; the centre of it is in the next pafture to the north- caft; it is 300 foot in diameter, and compofed of 30 ftones, fet at the diftance of 30 foot, as before : about 20 of the ftones are remaining, but of that number only three ftanding. The whole circle is con¬ tained in three paftures; the plain on which it ftands defcends gently toward the river, and keeps it conftantly dry. But 30 foot from this circle is the circumference of the outer circle of the quincuple one, or five concentric circles, the centre whereof is in an angle of 20 degrees more foutherly from the line that connects the centres of the two fingle cir¬ cles j fo that it bears a little northerly of the eaft from the folar circle. The manner of thus conjoining five circles in one is very extraordinary, and what I have no where elfe met withal; and its primitive afpedf muft have had as remarkable an effect, by the crebri ty of the ftones, as their intervals : and, upon moving towards them, or fideways, they muft have created the fame beautiful and furprifing appearance to the eye, as the more learned architects have endeavoured by the multiplicity of columns in their portico’s, forums, and the like, of which Vitruvius fpeaks: yet I think, in my judgement, this circular work muft needs vaftly have exceeded, in this particular, thofe moft celebrated works of the Greeks and Romans; becaufe in a ftrait walk there is but always the fame variety (if we may talk fo) prefented to the eye; whereas in ours, the circles not being exaCtly at the fame diftance from one another as the ftones are, and therefore not confining themfelves to fo ftriCt a regularity, it muft have heightened that agreeable diverfification. It is very obvious, that the compilers ufed art and confideration in adjufting the diameters with the number of the ftones, and that one circle fhould not be vaftly difproportionate to another: thus the outermoft circle is 310 foot in diameter; therefore it receives 32 ftones at 30 foot interval: the next T/ie Cove at Stanton Drew ,Si a ii- ' 'Vf sJ! • ■ '. . \. . A **•' .'•• • ’w «■ I « * I.. • ■.•‘.'At-■p*^ ^ t if / ■'' ■' ■fe. ' 1 A 'X ; 1 ^ v^' 7 ' II, I C,- ;ii' 4 « I i a 1 , •' 200 CUXTIC Temples 5 ^^ [iffliz rut 50 -iiiimwMiiiniiiiiiimiiiiitfil— ■tniiiBiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimir Joo Celtic Teet w\ Tiicaw 't\rn. i/T L^crit uraL 3i!eiiiie\t gwy;- ICtswaexi 2 CO jcs o^ -tAio- wcu'- mere e/onee stnne/u^ Joo ^.zeeo‘ c^/hmt i/u^r ri'aj/- 12 ' . ■ 'V. t- ‘I t . ft: / ' f ... Oi. eft' * rV...- f . ' - i,- \ '• * \ ^ ' I { 5 i' 2“ Eng I Te et CeiticTeet lumiiLHulihtLiITOCTimUu) — jaiH i ffi .M jmii imM ri i iii u t- JO(? =rd ml; jiiijiiauimiiuj.iiamilJ SO liLiiii:mi!,ijia!LiMiiibim!il - jTA^ (^eltic Tempi e at- C/^sern^ tn tAeJT/Ac- ' ^ Z/ 7 , iSco tland. .1 Ji-.* M r \ c/ Ofz ^ Jiioitn&iirL TiJiaj- t/ze j^OTTi^on^ ^cn ti/icalzxfrL {It rauu- Sc’//e/v o^e, LTt Cozm^' o/' 3^CU/tXiy, Sxzt z/z -^R^nAaiJ'rz ■ '6zs Z oAPar&r Zzametzr. THE WEDDINGS. is 250 in diameter, with 28 ftones: the next, 230 j confequently requires 22 ftones to complete it: the next is 150 foot in diameter, con- fifting of 16 ftones ; the innermoft is 90, therefore has 9 ftones; but then two of them are crowded together, and fet at an angle a little obtufe, fo that they form a fort of niche, or cove, of a different manner from any other. Several of thefe ftones are fallen, feveral ftand; which may be better underftood by furveying the drawings, than by a tedious recapitu¬ lation : therefore I took different views of the work hereabouts, where it is moft intire, that in after-times, by comparing the prints with the life, the difference may appear, if any fhall be ; but I hope they ever will be nfelefs to thofe that view the place itfelf, and that the owners of the eftate will preferve the monument for the glory of their country. In refledling upon thefe matters as I travelled along, it feemed to me not much to be doubted, that, as Stonehenge is an improvement upon A bury, fo Abury is executed upon a grander plan, taken from this, or fome fiich like. I can fcarce think there ever was an avenue to this work, nor any ditch about it. It is true, there is a ditch, or mote, now round the north fide along the river: but I believe it was only a fifti-pond, or canal, made for the ufe of the manor^houfe, or the nunnery, in whofe demefnes fo- ever it were; and it is plain there is no fign of a ditch on the fouth fide, where moft occafion, becaufe the river on the other fide produces the ufe and effedl of it: and if thofe ftones called Hautvile’s Coyts were not fet there for direction of the old Britons which way to come in this woody country, or where a ford of the river was, why might they not be ftones dropped by the way in journeying to the temple ? and they are of the fame dimenhons with that on the back of the cove. I am very apt to think there was another work, a cove at leaft, in a triangle with the other and the lunar circle; and the rather, becaufe the manor-houfe and offices being built upon its fituation, it were eafy for them to throw it down under fome foundation : and then the area^ or whole content of the oval knoll, would be filled up handfomely, and with great regularity. And indeed I am fhocked at the number of the works at prefent, being four ; whereas that of five feems much more eligible in this cafe, both as an odd number, and an harmonic : for I doubt not but the Druids, the con¬ trivers of thefe ftru6lures, had a good notion of mufic, as I could evidence in fome obfervations I have made in the very matters before us; but I fear to be thought,whimfical in a thing of this nature, and in a fubjeft fo wholly new. It is certain Pythagoras, the Arch-druid, as I venture to call him, completed this art. Now, what can be plainer than the con¬ formity between this work and Abury ? the fame fituation, near the fpring of a river, upon a knoll in a large valley, guarded from feverity of weather by environing hills : here is the cove of three ftones; the circle of twelve; that of thirty ftones, all fet at the fame intervals of thirty foot: here are the concentric circles. But then Abury is a vaftly more extenfive and magnificent defign ; the ftones of much larger dimenfions, and much more numerous. Plere are two circles, the one of twelve, the other of thirty ftones; but at Abury they have repeated them, and doubled them, by fetting one v/ithin the other: the quincuple circle they have infinitely exceeded by the prodigious circular portico of a hundred ftones on a fide; then by the mighty ditch and vallum encompafling it; by two avenues three miles in length, each of a hundred ftones on a fide: by the temple on Overton hill, by Silbury hill, and other matters, they have fo far exceeded their copy, that in the total they have outdone them- VoL. II. Y y felves. 174 THE WEDDINGS. felves, and created a Celtic wonder of the world, or the eighth. But to return to our prefent fubjedt. The ftones of our innermoft circle of the quincuple one are twelve foot high above ground, and are of a fquare form, being four foot broad on each fide, whence they compofe three folids, one fet upon another, and therefore appeared higher above the tops of the reft. Five of them are ftanding, and the roots of them two which are placed clofe together with their edges, and which make the cove for the ftones themfelves are fplit from their foundation by fome unaccountable vio¬ lence, which, upon confideration, I can attribute to nothing lefs than a ftroke of lightning; nor can I conceive that any other impulfe, except that of a cannon bullet, could have fo disjointed or fraCtured them. This fet of circles are placed on the eaftern fide of the knoll, and have a fine declivity two or three ways for carrying off the rain. This niche, or cove, if fuch it be, opens to the north, and a little wefterly: feveral of the ftones of the outer circles ftand on the other fide of the hedge, and two or three are funk into the ditch : thofe are vulgarly called the Fid- lers, as the others the Maids, or the revel rout attendant on a marriage feftival; for the people of this country have a notion, that upon a time a couple were married on a Sunday, and the friends and guefts were fo prophane as to dance upon the green together, and by a divine judgment were thus converted into ftones : fo I fuppofe the two ftones fo clofe together in the inner circle were reputed the Bride and Bridegroom : the reft were the Company dancing, and the Fidlers ftood on the out- fide. I have obferved that this notion and appellation of Weddings, Brides, and the like, is not peculiar to this place, but applied to many other of thefe Celtic monuments about the kingdom; as the Nine Maids in Cornwall, nine great ftones fet all in a row; whence poffibly one may conjedlure, in very ancient times it was a cuftom here, even of the Chriftians, to folemnife marriage and other holy rites in thefe ancient temples, perhaps before churches were built in little parifhes: and even now they retain, or very lately did, in Scotland, a cuftom of burying people in the like temples, as judging them holy ground; with¬ out all doubt, continued down from the Druidical times. Or there may be another conceit offered, of which the reader may chufe which pleafes him beft ; that is, that fuch names of tliefe places may be derived from the mad, frolickfome, and Bacchanalian ceremonies of the ancient Britons in their religious feftivals, like thofe of all other nations which are recorded to us in hiftory. However, I think it is a con¬ firmation of what wants none, that thefe are the temples of the Gods, made by our Britifli predeceffors j of which we come next to deliver our opinion. We are to confider, upon the plan propofed, what regard is had to the Celtic Deities, which we faid were feven in number j and methinks it is eafy to point out at this day the particular Gods worfliipped in thefe places, as I have named them upon the Plate. The Sun and Moon, no doubt, claim the higheft place in the opinion of all nations ; therefore their temples are fituate in the midft of the plain of the oval knoll: thefe are the two fingle circles : the Sun’s is eafily diftinguilhable from the other by its bulk, and being toward the right hand, and toward the caft, the more worthy part: this confifting of 30 ftones, and the other of 12, feem to mean the Solar month, and Lunar year : the quincuple circle I fuppofe confecrate to the five lelfer planets j and that the cove appertained THE WEDDINGS. 175 appertained to the fervice of the Goddefs of the Earth, therefore opens to the fouth, refpe6ling full the meridian power of the Soul of the World, without whofe beams it is dead and inert. Hence therefore the reafon of their order in fituation : the Lunar temple is next the earth, becaufe fo in the heavens; the Sun next above ; and the planets higheft, according to the order one would be apt to fuppofe they obfer- ved in Nature. It feems likely that the Celtic philofophers reckoned the north the highell: part or end of the world, either from the ele¬ vation of the north pole to us of northern latitude, as our geographers now pra 61 :ife in maps and charts, by making the north part uppermoft j or becaufe they came from that quarter of the world in the progrefs of nations : but We mull: join the eaft with it j for that^ ever fince the Creation, in all fyftems of religion, and nations, has been efpecially reverenced, becaufe of the Sun’s riling: and the weft was reckoned the lower part of the world, the hell and region of the dead, the Ely- lian lhades, and the like j becaufe the Sun fets there, and feems to go down : therefore we may obferve the reafon of the cove being placed raoft wefterly, becaufe the earth poflefles the loweft place, the reft mounting north-eafterly. The niche or cove of the innermoft planet regards the north, or a little wefterly, as denoting, beyond the ftars was ftretched out the great inane of Nature, or infinite fpace, the empty north, as moft diftant and diflbnant from the fouth, where was the Sun and world, the foundation of being. If one would enter into their theo¬ logy, one might conje( 5 fure that they meant likewife the creation of the world; for the north, or immenfe void, being uppermoft in their efteem, fhowed that the world was produced from nothing, by the Supreme Power. To this purpofe holding night prior to day, they reckoned their time by winters, nights, huz. One other remark I made on the genius and geometry of the founders of the Weddings; that in the inner circle of the Planetary temple, which is but 90 foot diameter, and therefore an eye in the centre is very near them, there is a con- fiderable artifice ufed in its component ftones; for, though they be fquare, yet they are fo managed that the face on the outfide of the peri¬ phery is fomewhat broader than the other three; hereby it is caufed, that the two fides upon the radius refpedl: the centre of the circle. This is contrived to prevent the great offence to the eye which would other- wife have been caufed in this lefler circle, had the ftones been perfeftly fquare, and, inftead thereof, give a particular delight. I mentioned before, how much I fufpedled a cove which had ftood near the manor-houfe in the north-weft part of the knoll: this I would have dedicated to the element of Water, or particularly to the river flow¬ ing by, the Ifca^ which I have fliewm to be its Celtic name: and this cove, thus fituate, would offer itfelf conveniently to the coiirfe of the ftream, and meet, as it were, to falute the Nymphs or Naids moving down the ftream eaft ward. I think likewife this might be another rea¬ fon of their pitching upon this piece of ground; for probably they might think there was more fandtity in a river that ran eaftward ; it is certain the ancients accounted it more wholefome, for a phyfical reafon, as meeting the Sun’s rifing beams, to purify it from all noxious vapor : and for this fame reafon is there another fimilitude between this work and that of Abury, the Kennet running eaftward its whole length. As foon as I came on the ground, I obferved the form of the hill or knoll that contains this work, and that it perfedlly refembles that of the ancient 176 THE WEDDINGS. ancient circus’s; and the fine lawn on the fouth fide, together with the interval northwards between it and the river, made an admirable curjm for races of horfes, chariots, and the like, as I doubt not in the leaft to have been the pradtice in old Britifh times at this very place. This notion is exceedingly confirmed by the remarkable turn in the road, humouring exaftly the circuit of this curfusy and coinciding with part of it, as is apparent in the view of the country Plate } and juft on the fouth fide the manor-houfe is a declivity at this day, and fo quite round, admirably adapted to the benefit of the fpedlators, who, running round in a lelTer circle, might eafily equal the fwiftnefs of the horfe, and be fpe6lators of the whole courfe. I fuppofe all the forts of games pra6lifed here, which are mentioned in Homer upon the death of Patroclus : this was done at their great religious feftivals, and at the exequies of renowned commanders, kings, and chiefs ; for it is remarkable at this very day, all thofe fports mentioned by the moft ancient poet are now pra6lifed among us; which firews our Afian extradl from the early times, and only accounts for that furprifing cuftom of chariots mentioned to be among the Britons by Caefar, which they wifely applied to war likewife, whilft the Romans ufed them only upon their circus and diverfions. The great plain in the middle of the area was convenient for the works of facrificing, and after for feaftings, wreftling, coyting, and the like: and from the memory, perhaps, of thefe kind of exercifes, fprung the notion of Sir John Hautvil’s Coyts, he being a ftrong and valiant man, and expert in thefe games of our hardy anceftors : the vulgar con¬ founded the two hiftories into one, and, fond of the marvellous, applied the name of Coyts to thofe monftrous ftones. So in Wales to this day they call the Rromlechea, Arthur’s Coyts. Thus therefore we may in imagination view a folemn facrifice of mag¬ nanimous Britons, the Druids and other priefts, the kings and people afl'embled : we may follow them imitating the courfe of the Sun, and, like the ancient Greeks at their folemn games, celebrating fplendidly, in honour of their Gods, upon the winding banks of the rivers. The tem¬ ple at Diofpolis in Egypt, deferibed by Strabo, XVII. is not unlike our Celtic ones, having a dromos^ or circ, before it, with ftones cut like fphynges to mark out the route^ and a portico quite round. The wails, fays he, are as high as the temple, which is without roof, and covered over with fculpture of large figures. There is one part compofed of abundance of huge pillars fet in very many rows, having nothing painted or elegant, but feems like an empty labour, as he exprelfes it; and this was, becaufe the Grecian temples of his country were covered over, and the walls adorned with painting and carving, and all forts of curiofities in art. In this temple (he proceeds) were formerly great houfes for the priefts, men given to philofophy and aftronomy: but now that order and difeipline is failed, and only fome forry fellows left, that take care of the facrifices, and fliow the things to ftrangers. Eudoxus and Plato went hither, and lived thirteen years to learn of them. Thefe priefts knew the minute oxcefs of the year above 365 days, and many more like things; for, fays he, the Greeks were ignorant of the year at that time. Thus far Strabo. It is notorious from the foregoing particulars, how near a refem- blance thefe had to our Celtic temples, and likewife to the famous ruins at Perfepoiis, which I always looked upon as a great temple of the Per- fians. Thofe that think it the ruins of a royal palace, run away content with the report of the ienorant people living thereabouts. This temple of ji at I THE WEDDINGS. 177 of the Egyptians, which Strabo describes, had no roof i and therefore it would be abfurd to place paintings in it, and fine carvings of ivory, gold and marble, from the hand of Phidias, or Praxiteles, as was the ufage of the Greeks; whence Strabo takes occahon to throw a farcafm upon people that he would not have thought fo elegant as his countrymen. It is certain the Egyptians, as well as our Celts, ftudicd greatnefs and aftonifhment, beyond the nice and curious ; as is vifible in all their works, fuch as the pyramids, the obeliiks, Pompey’s pillar, the m.on- ftrous colojji and fphyngesy of which we have many accounts in writers, and many of their prodigious works ftiil left, which defy time by their magnitude, like our Celtic: but the Greeks ought to be fo grateful as to acknowledge by whom they profited j for they learnt hrft from the Egyptians j nor will we deny that they improved upon them. When Strabo mentions thefe rooflefs temples, and walls covered with fculptures of large figures, and the abundance of huge pillars fet in many rows, who fees not the exabt conformity between this work, and that of Per- fepolis ? and thefe collections of pillars, though I fuppofe fet in a fquare form, are no other than our quincuple circle. I took notice too, that thefe temples are fet in fuch ftraggling order as ours here at Stanton Drue, and by examination find that the two larged: are at an angle of 20 degrees of one another (I mean, their middle points, or centres) from the cardinal line, or that which runs from eaft to weft : here is likewife the fame number of five temples, and like diverfity of number of ftones, and manner of forms in each, as of ours : the only difference confifts in the one being fquare, the other round ; owing to the particular notions of the two people, judging this, and that, moft apt for facred ftruCtures. The work at Perfepolis too is made upon an artificial eminence, or pave¬ ment of moft prodigious ftones, inftead of a natural one, the afcent to which is by fteps ; which is enough to overthrow any notion of a palace : but they that fee not its intent, that it was wholly a religious building, and that there is not one fymptom of its being a civil one, ought to be difregarded. All the fculptures are religious, being proceffions of the priefts to facrifice; which has nothing to do with a palace : the work of pillars never had a roof on it, becaufe of the flower-work at top : befides, there are no walls, never were; and what the incurious fpec- tators take for walls, are only fingle ftones fet like thofe of our monu¬ ment : and the doors are no more than one ftone laid acrofs two more, as thofe of Stonehenge: the mouldings of them go quite found ; fo that, had there been a wall, half of them would have been covered. But it is loft time to fpeak any more of that affair. I make no doubt but the name of Stanton Drue is derived from our Monument j Stanton from the ftones, and from the Druids. It moves not me, that fome of the name of Drew might have lived here formerly; for fuch a family might take the denomination of the town, and, leaving out the firft part, retain only that of Drew. It is fufficient conviction, that there are fo many other towns in England, and elfewhere, that have preferved this name, and all remarkable for monuments of nature. The number of the ftones are 160. VoL. II. Z z IN D E X. :il .jcikt-fvi^ • i ■;' i ■»■ '' " ?■ .'■.‘w jmj. ■.%■■:;; 'vri;?'■_ • •:' ,‘fr ^iv!;'ddo/ls ■ ’. / A *' ' v'd-yisyi: A-rti yiwvryd. '■:. o'" •- • - , ' ■ *» !■ ■.;« -, li ,f.v i-TiiS ■ ' iw '-III.. Ui^’Lbl '"lO . , ' .' '' ■ f ' Ji JiiW' DUi^, ’? ;ui', Hv.!! • ; nu ,.ni:;.ot' ■•JTcI.v.'i- iO • O^"; >.• ifaaijyr ,■ :^di: ; ■ ■i.xUrf'm ^.ns:' ..u :iua . rh ad ...: oa /'-. ■- - ,. ' ■■ .•,■'! ’'f* ; 'i -■• i i ..- :■''-y'■rj| i:d fi;dd-"r. ,'■ V'^dt'Xiid ••vo::’ ^ ■ r-.: -;•/ y, ^ U. ,, , • ■:•/: - r • -. ■ » ■ ■■; ;■ ■/”■ ’ ' , „ • ^ *: I N D E X T O ITER BOREAL E. 47 21 73 64 37 20 26 20 20 43 37 20 A ddingham Alcefter Aldborough Ale, called Hather Anchor Hill Anker River Antique Marbles Arbury Arduen Foreft Arthur’s Round Table Alhler Stone Aftley, Geo. Efq; B B AKEWELL 26 Baliol Caftle 59 Beacon Hill 24 Bede, Venerable 71 Belemnites 17, 26 Belifana, now the River Ribel 36 Belon, a Diftemper afFecft- ing Cattle 25 Benedidt Bp.of Weremouth 62 Benwell 67 Birmingham 21 Bonium 33 Borough 20 Boroughbridge 73 Bowland Foreft 37 Borough Hill Camp 17 Bradfal 24 Braciaca 26 Bracelet, Gold Britifli 33 Brewood 23 Brick Hill 17 Britifh Temple 42, 4^ Brougham Caftle 44 Burton on Trent 22 Bufto’s 3c Butt’s Clofe 22 Buxton 26, 28 59 48 18 C AER Voran Caerfwic Ctefar’s Tower Caefarius, St. Owen, Giant 46 Cairns or Carracks 45, 60 Calcaria y e Camp Hill 2l Can, River 39 Canal hewn out of a Rock 26 Canals, antient fubterran. 31 Carlifle ^4 Carved Stones 38 Caftle Banks 20 Caftle Croft 28 Caftleford Caftle Garth 76 Caftle-Cowhill 40 Caftle-Rig 48 Caftleton 27 Caftrum Exploratorum 54 Catterick 72 Cave, in a Rock 42 Celts, Brafs 44 Celtic Barrows 24 Celtic Monuments 44 Celtic Temples 27, 47, 48 Chadfden 24 Chamber in the Foreft 30 Chatfworth 26 Chaucer, Pidture of 70 Chelmerton 27 Chefter 30 Chefter, Earls of 32, 33 Chefter, Leofric Earl of, ? Godiva his Wile 5*9 Chefter (Little) 60 Chefter on the Street 70 Chefterfield 21 Chefterfield Crofts 22 Chiltern Hills 17 Clifton Houfe 46 Clifton, a famous Spring 45 Cnut-berries 48 Coal Mines 65, 66 Coal Pits 35 Coal Works 52, 69, 70, 76 Coccium 29 Cockermouth 49 Coffin of Stone 33 Coins, fntaglias, &c. 21, 23, 25, 3b Concangios 39 Condale 29, 30 Condereum 70 Copperas Work 52 Corallium tubulatum 36 Corchefter 63 Coventry ig Coventry Priory 21 Countefs Pillar 46 Cryftals, Congeries of, 42,43, 74 Chryftallifations 47 Cumberland Hills 39 D D anum Darley Slade Daventry Degge, Sir Simon Derby Derbyfhire Marble Deritend Chapel Derventio Deva Devil’s Arfe Dinkley Doncafter Dudley, Coal Mines Caftle Dunkin Hall Dunftable Durham 17 E 76 24 ^7 25 24 26 21 24 30 27 38 76 20 23 37 E ast Denton 64 Eboracum 74 EdelBury 34 Edellleda, a MercIanPrincefs 30 Egvptian Lotus 19 Elfleda, Sifter to Edward the Elder 23 Elen River 49 Elenborough 49 Elfs Arrows 28 Etocetum 21 36 52 20 28 26 51 24 ^ELLS Fire Engine Hint axes Flint Arrow Heads Font, ancient Font at Bridekirk The Fofs G G ABROCENTUM 69 Galava 45 Gale, Dr. (his MSS.) 72 Gatefhead 69 Gelt River 58 GlaflTonbury Abbey Book 58 Gold Finger 37 Goyt Houfe 28 Greville Family 18 GrifF Coal Works 19 Guggleby Stone 42 Guy’s Cliff Chapel 18 Guy’s Tower 18 H H ELL’S Fell Nab, or the Fairy Hole 42 Henbury 33 Hermen-Street 69, 70, 72, 76 Hexam 62 Hickling-Street 22 Hilton, Jack of, a Saxon Idol called Poufter 24 Holland, Philemon 19 Holm Houfe 29 Horns of little Deer 33 Horfe Brook 23 Horfes, kept under Ground 68 Houghton Caftle 35 Houfefteeds 60 I J ACK of Hilton Icening-Street idle River Ingham Inglcborough Hill Irthing River Irwell River Ifurium 24 17 76 21 39 58 28 73 INDE X. K K ELKBx\R Kendall —-- Caftle 75 40 ib. 47 48 23 58 34 Kefvvick Kift-vaen Knave’s Caftle Knaworth Caftle Knowfley L AN CASTER 38 _ j Leam River 21 Lead Ore 25 Legeolium 76 Lcverpool 34 Library 35 Little-over 25 Litchfield Cathedral ib. Lindisfarn, Bp. of 70 Long Meg 47 Longridge Mountain 37 Longton 58 Lovvther Hall 46 Lumley Caftle 70 Lune River 38 Lyn-Lane 22 M ACCLESFIELD 28 Madan Caftle 17 Madan-Way 46, 58 Magiovinium 17 Magna Charta, Original, 71 Magnet (Interval) 48 '.['he Malvern 23 Mam Torr 27 Mandueffedum 20 Man-Caftle, or Cefter ib. Mancunium 28 Marvel Stones 27 Mawcop Hill 22 Mayborough 44 Medloc River 28 Mercury, Intaglia of 39 Monks Kirby 20 Monumental Stone 53 Morbium 52, 53 Alorefby 52 Morley Church (painted Glafs^ 25 Mofaic Floor 45 Alofaic Pavement 73 Mofeley 21 N 'AILOR, George 39 _ Netherby 57 Aewborough 61 Newcaftle 64 North-Sheels 69 Nuneaton 19 Nun Green 24 O J.DBURY 20 Old-field Banks ib. Olenacum 49 Orrafkirk 35 Oufe River 75 P P ALACE of King Edgar 34 Panftones 37 Papcaftle 51 Parton Haven 53 Peak Country Pendle Hall Penk, River Penkridge Penigent Hill Pennocrucium Penrith Penruddoc Peterel River Petrianis Pidlures 25, 43 ^ 27 37 .23 rb. 40 23 46 47 4-5 ib. 35 Pi(fts Wall 56, 60, 61, &: feq. 65, 66, 67, 68 Pierce Bridge Pipe Hill PooPs Hole Port-Lane Portraits Potamogeiton Majus Pr^fidium Prefton Priory Hall Prudhoe Caftle R ADCLIFF Rock _ Ravenfworth Caftle Ravonia Repton, the Burial Place of fome Mercian Kings Ribchefter Ribell, River 'Fhe Rigning RigningWay 2r, Rippon Robin’s Hood’s Well Rock Samphire Roman Antiquities Altars 29, 32, 37, 39, 45» 49» 50» 57» 58, 59» 6r, 62, 63 ■ . Bricks 34 -Carving 33 Coins 23, 25, 37, 39, 49» 50, 5I) 53- 55» 73 Ports 56 & feq. Hand-Mills 55 Hypocauft 34, 41 inferiptions 26, 37, 46, 53» 58. 61, 70, 72 22 27 22 35 J 9 18 35 24 64 25 69 ib. 25 36 ib. 24 22 73 76 52 72 45 7 P 41: 74 Monuments 38 Roads 29, &c feq. 33 Shoes 57 Temple 22 Urns 33, 40 Wall 22, 55 & feq. 65, 66, 67, 68 -- Wells Romano-Britilh Antiqui¬ ties Rood Eye Round Fold S S T. Amor Heath Salelbury Hall Saltford Saltworks 29, Scaleby Caftle Scot, Michael Sepulchral Lamp 25 61 32 27 24 37 29 30 57 45 40 Sever’s Hill 74 Strap 42 Shenfton 22 Shells petrified 26 Shrine of St. Werburg 33 Shugbury 20 Sidney, Sir Philip 18 Sidbury 24 Silk Looms 25 Spelwell i8 Skidhaw Hill 48 Sladon Hoe 27 Stafford 23 Stanton 21 Stockport 28 Stone 17 Stone-Heaps 43 Stones (hollowed) 55 Stones, Circles of 58 Stones called the Devil’s Arrows 74 Stretton 23 Subterraneous Oratory 61 Subterraneous Vault 51 Swinfield 2 T T ADCASTER 75 Tanfield » 60 'J'cthill Caftle 17 Thirlwall Caftle 58 'Tickencote 6t Tinmouth Caftle 6g Toads found alive in a Wall 39 -in folid Coal 19 Tombs of Sacheverels 25 -Vernons andManners’sio 'Pot, Signification of 24 Tiee, Trunk of one heWii into a Coffin 2t Tunnocelum 69 Tutbury Caftle 24 U V ASE of coral-coloured Earth *5 Vidlory, Pidlure of 63 Ulles Lake 48 Ulphus’s Horn 75 Voreda 59 Uttoxeter 24 W W ARWICK 18 Warwick Bridge 19 Wall 2r Water-Crook 39 Watford-gap 20 Watling-Street 17, 21, 22, 23» 31 AVeft Derby 35 Weftmoreland Hills 39, 42 Whitehaven 52 Wilfred, the Saxon Bifhop 73 Winander Meer 41 Witherlley 20 Wolfencote 21 Wolverhampton 20 Wormleighton 2i The Wrekin 23 Wye, River 26 Y Y ORK 74 X I N D E A D COMMENTARIOLUM GEOGRAPHICUM RICARDI WESTMONASTERIENSIS, E J U S QJU E MAPPAM. A aron Martyr Abona Fluvius C. h. & Ad Abonam, Statio Rom. Abrafuanus Fluvius Abravanus Sinus, E. e. Abus Fluvius, G. g. Ad Abum, Statio Rom. Acmodae Infulae Adrafte Dea ^lia Caftra Statio ^fica Fluvius, E. g. Ad jEficam Statio F. ^tius Dux J. Agricola Legatus 89, 91 Agrippa Geographus Alauna Urbs, E. g. & 1 . f. Alauna Fluvius, F. g. & G. f. Ad Alaunam Amnem Statio Albani Populi, D. f. Albanus Martvr C. Albinus Legatus Albion Infula, B. C. item H Alcluith Urbs Alexander Imp. Alicana Allobroges Pop. Alpes Montes Alpes Penini Montes, G. g. Ad Alpes Peninos Statio Amba^Iae Milites Amphibalus, Martyr Andatis Dea Andcrida Portus Anderida Sylva, K. g. Anderida Urbs, L. g. Andros Infula Anglii Regnum Annales Annuli ferrei pro numinis Anferes Sacrse Anterida Sylva Antivellzeum Promontorium, Antona Fluvius, I. g. Ad Antonam Statio Antoninus Pius Imp. Ad Aquas Statio VoL. II. Pag. 105 k. f. 87, 194 97 92 166 91 97 lOI 83 97 93 96 92, 106 , 92, 104, 107 79. 98 90, 92 96. 97 & K. f. 92,96 96 90, 96, 105 108 . I. b. 79, 98, 99, 100, lOI 86, 93 108 91, 96 o 87, 91 91, 96 96 8 r 96 83 97 87, 97 87, 97 lOI 80 83 83 87197 M. c. 88, 99 87 o 97 85, 92, 107 97 Ara forte AgricolEe, E. g. Ara forte Ulyffis, C. g. Ar$ Finium Imperii Rom. C. h. Argitta Fluvius, F. c. Argolicum Statio Ariconium Urbs, I. f. Armenia Regio Armillie importatae Armoricae Civitates, M. g. Artavia Urbs, K. d. Afclopiodorus Dux Aflyrii Pop. Athlanticus Oceanus Attacotti Pop. D. f. Attrebates Pop. K. g. Avalonia Urbs Aufona Fluvius, L g. Augufta Londinium Colonia D. Auguftinus, Anglorum Apoftol Auguftus Imp. Aurelius Antoninus Imp. Aufobae Sinus, I. a. Auftrinum Prom. N. a. Auterii Pop. I. b. Auterum Urbs, I. b. Authores 8( AuTo;i^ 9 o>aj, qui B Balena Pifcis Ballium Statio Balnea calida Banatia Urbs, D. g. Banconium Urbs, H. f. Banchorium Statio et Monafterium Banna Fluvius, F. d. Bardi Poetae Baflianus Imp. Bdora .Elluarium Beda Eelgie Pop. L. f &c K. f. g. Pag. 93 93 96 88, 97 85 8i 88 105 94 79. 99 o 93 87, 90 87 90 90 86 ig6 104, 108 99 99 99 o 99 >, 87, 100 95 85 97 8S 93 us Belgarum Littori Thule Inf. oppofita Beliffima Fluvius, G. f. Benifamnum Prom. K. a. Eennonae Urbs Benons Urbs, I. g. Bibrax Urbs, K. g. Bibroci Pop. K. g. Bibroicum Urbs A a 89, 96 99 84 92, IC5 85 92 79, 85, 98, 99 87, 88, 103 100 89, 96, 97 97 97 87 bu 87 Bigis N D E X. Bigis dimicabant Britones Bleftiura Statio B 'dotria ^ftuarium, E. g. Boduni Pop, I. f. V. Bolanus Legatus Bolerimn Promontorium, L. c. 8i 97 92 90 107 88 Bonduica Regina 90, 91, 104, 107 Boreum Proni. T'. b. 99, bis. Bovium Statio 97 Brachium in Brittania memorabile 8 i Brangonum Urbs, I. f. 90, 97 Brannogenium Statio ;/>. Branogena Urbs ih. Bremenium civit. Stipend. F. g. 92 95. 96 Brennus Rex 87 Brigre Statio 97 Brigantes Pop. G. g. & G. f. g. I. c. 90, 91 99, 100, bis. Brigantia Regio 85, 99 Brigantire Regnum 99 Brigantis Urbs I. c. ib. Brigantum extrema, G. h. 91 Brigas Fluvius 99 Brigus Fluvius, I. c. D. Brigitta 100 Brinavre Statio 97 Brittani Populi paffim. Brittania Infula 79 dff pajfm. Auftralis Regio 82 Auftrina Regio 80, 82 Inferior Provincia eadem 82 Prima Provincia 85, 86, 88 Secunda Prov. 85, 86, 88 Superior Prov. 88 Brittanica & Gallica Lingua &c. eadem 80, n • . . . ^9 Brittanica antiquiffima Monumenta 82 Brittanicae Infula 79 Brittanicas Confuetudines, Cap. III. & IV. pajjim. Brittones, Brittani Populi p'^Jf™- Bryto Rex 103 Brocavonac^ Statio 97 Bultrum Statio ib. Bubinda Fluvius, H. c. Buvinda Fluvius 99 C. Ca^far Imp. 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 87, lOO, 104, 106 Cffifarea Inf. M. f. lor Caefarienfis Provin. 90, 1O4 Cfffaromagus Statio 96 Calcaria Statio ib. Caleba Urbs, K. g. 87, 97 Caledonia Regio, B. h. 8c C. f. So, 92, 93, 101 Caledonia Sylva, C. g. 87, 91, 93, 94 Caledonicum Prom. 79, 94 Caledoniae extrema 94 Caledonii Pop. C. g, 80, 92, 94 Camalodunum Colonia, I. h. 89, 90, 96, 104, ]o6 cognominata Geminre Martiae 95 Cambodunum Civitas, Lat. J. don. G. g. 91, 99 Camboricum Colonia, I. h. go, 96 Cambretonium Statio Cambula Fluvius, K. d. Camillus Dux Canganas Infulae, K. a. Cangani Pop. id. Canganum Prom. H. e. Canganus Sinus, H. e. Cangi Pop. Cangiani Pop. Cangi orum Regio Canonium Statio Canovius Fluvius Cantabricus Oceanus Cantae Pop. C. h. K. h, Cantianus Status Cantii Pop. Cantium Prom. K. h. Cantium Regio Cautiorum Regnum 96 87 99 89 99 89 ih, 96 89 99 86, 94 86 86, 90, 94, 96 80, 86 ib. ib. 87 ib. Cantiopolis Civitas Stipend. K. h. 86, 95, ^ 96,97 CarauCus Imp. 86, 99, 10$ Carbantum, F. f. 92 Carnabii Pop. B. h. & H. f. & M. d. 88, 89, 90, 91, 94 Carnab'orum Regio 89 Carnonacae Pop. B. g. 94 Carnubia Regio 28 Carthifmandua Reg. 89, 91 Cafe Candidae Urbs 92 Callii Pop. I. g. & I. f. g. 90 Callibellinus Rex 90 104 Caffiterides Infulae 88, loi Cafliterrides Infulae ib. Caflium Regnum 90 Caftella Romana 98 Callra MXia. Statio 97 Cataradlon Civit. Lat. jure donata 91, 95, 96 Catieuchlani Pop. go Caturadlon Urbs, G. g. 91, 96 Catini Pop, B. h. 94 Caucii Pop. H. c. 99, 100 Cauna Inf. K. h. Celnius Fluvius, D. h. 93 Celtae Pop. 87, 103 Celtiberi Pop. 94 Cenia Urbs, M. d. 88, 97 Cenius Fluvius, M. d. 88 Cenomanni Pop. I. h. 90 P. Cerealis Legatus 91, 104, 107 Cerones Pop. C. f. 94 Charatacus Rex 89, 104 Chauci, vel Cauci, Pop. vide fupra Caucii Pop. Chronica 90 Chronologia 103 tff feq. Chryfollh ornus 79 Cimbri Pop. K. e. 88 Cimbrorum Regio ib. Civitates Latio jure donatae 95 Civitates Stipendiaife ib. Claudianus Vates 93, 105 Claudius Imp. 90, 91, 104, 106 Claufentum Urbs, L. g. ^ 7 » 97 Cleomedes Clita Iluvius, II. f. Clota N D E X. Clota Fluvius, E. f. Clota Infula, D. e. Clotta ^ftuarium, Id. Clydda ^ftuarium. Id. Coccium Urbs, G. f. Cogibundus Rex Cogidunus Coitani Pop. H. g. Colanica Urbs, E. f. Colfulfus Rex Coloni® D. Columba Comes Brittaniarum Comes Littoris Saxonici Concangii Pop. Condate Statio Concretum Mare Conovium Statio Conovius Fluvius, H. f. Conftantius Chlorus Imperator 92, 85, bc 93 9 ^. 97 104 lob 90, 91 85 95 100 86 ib. 90 9 ^> 97 lor 96 89 90, 105 Conftantinus Magnus Imperator 86, 89, 90, 105 Confuetudines vari® 80, 8i, 82, 83, 84, 98, 100, 101 Confulares Provinci® 86 Corbantorigum Urbs 92 Corinum Civitas Latio jure don. 90, 97 Coriondii Pop. lOO Corifenn® Statio 97 Coria Urbs 96 Corium Urbs ib. Corftoplum Statio ib. 81 Creones Pop. C. g. 94 Crococolana Statio 97 Cronium Mare loi Cunetio Statio 97 Cunetium Fluvius 87 Curia Urbs, F, f. 92, 96 Cybele Dea 83 D. Dabrona Fluvius, K. b. 99 Damnia Regio 92 Damnii Pop. D. f. & E. e. & F. d. 92, 99, 100 Damnii Albani Pop. 93 Damnonii Pop. L. e. 79, 88 Daniel Propheta 106 Danubius Fluvius 91 Danum Statio 96 Darabona Fluvius, F. c. 99 Darabouna ib. Ad Decimum Statio 97 Delgovicia Statio 96 Dcrbentio Urbs, H. g. Derventio Fluvius, F. f. Derventio Statio 96, 97 Deva Colonia, H. f. yo, 96 Getica cognominata 95 Deva Fluvius, D. g. &c E. e. f. & G. d. &: H. f. 88, 89, 92, 93 Devana Statio 96 Deucaledonicus Oceanus 99 Diana Dea 83 Dian® Forum Urbs 90, 96 AiO(,ppo(y[ji,ccicc 96 A. Didius Legatus 106 103 89 99 90 83 93 85, 86 99, 103 88, 91, 92 99 90 93, 107 97 o 83, 84 83, 84 83 82 80, 83 Dux Brittaniarum 86 Diluvium No® Dimeci® Pop. I. e. Dimetia Regio Die Hiftoricus Dis, i. e. Plutus Deus Diva Fluvius, L e. Di vana Urbs, D. h. Divifio Brittani® Rofiu Divitiacus Rex Documenta Dobona Fluvius Dobuni Pop. Domitianus Imp. Dorocina Statio Druldes Medici Sacerdotes Druidum Dogmata Druidum Pontifex Druidum Monumenta Druidum Traditiones Dubana Fluvius. L. b. Dubr® Portus 86, 97 Dubr® Urbs, K. h. 7b, Dubris Fluvius 87 Dubrona Fluvius, vide Dabrona FI. fupra Dumna Infula, A. i. Dunum Urbs, F. d. & H. c. 99 Duralifpons Statio 96, 97 Durinum Civitas Stipendiaria, L. f. 88 Durius Fluvius, L. e. L. a. 88, 97, 99 Durnomagus Civitas, Latio jur. don. I. g. 90» 9S> 96’ 97 Durnovaria Statio 97 Durobris, five Duroprovis, K. h. 86, 96 Durolevum Statio 96, 97 Durolispons Statio vide fupra Duralifpons. Duroprov® Urbs Stipend. K Durobris fupra 95 Durofevum Vide fupra Durolevum. Durofitum Statio 96 Durotriges Pop. 88 Dux Brittani® 86 E. Eblana Urbs, H. c. Eblan® Pop. 99 Eboracum Municip. & Metrop. G. g. 91, 95 . 96, 97 Ebudes Inful®, B. f. 100 Ebuda jrrima Infula, A. g. Ebuda fecunda Infula, A. f. Ebuda major Infula, A. g. & f. Ebuda quarta Infula, B, f. Ebuda quinta Infula, B. f. Ebudium Promont. B. g. 94 Edria Infula, H. d. Itpiacum Urbs, F. g. 91» 96 Epidi® Inful®, C. e. Epidia fuperior Inf. id. Epidia Inferior, C. e. d. Epidii Pop. C. e. 94 Epidium Prom. D. e. ib. Equites Brittanici 81 Eriri Mons 89, 96 EITed® Currus 8l Etocetum Urbs, L f. 89, 96, 97 Piuropa 79 Extremitas Caledoni® 94 F. I N D E X F. Fabius Rufticus 80 Fabuls ib. Fergufius Rex 105 Ad Fine.s Statio 96, 97 Fines Maximae & Flavis Prov. 96 'Frinobantum & Cenimannorum 96 Valentis & Maxims Provincial'. ib. Valentis & Vefpafians Frov. ib. Flavia extrema, L h. 90 Flavia Prov. H. f. I. g. 85, 86, 89, 96 Flavia Familia, five Gens ^ 9 ’ 93 f lorus Hiftoricus 9 ^ Forma Regiminis Brittannis Sub Indigenis 82 Sub Romanis 86 Forum Dians Urbs, I. g. vide Forum Dians in D. Fragmenta Itinerarii 95 F retum Brittanicum, K. i. L. h. 87, 181 Fretum Meneviacum, five Menevicum, H. e. 89 Fretum Oceani, vide Fretum Brit. fupra Fretum Sabrins 88 I. F lontinus Legatus 89, 107 M. Furius Legatus 108 G. Gadanica Statio 96 Gadeni Pop. E. g. 92 Gadenia Regio ib. Gagates Lapides 85 Galgacum Urbs, F. g. 9 r Galgacus Rex 1 0 M 0 Gallacum Urbs, idem quod Galgacum 91 (jalli Pop. 82. , 83, 88, 104 Gallia, L. M. N. i. 79, 86, 87 , 94, 96, 100 Gallis Belgies pars, L. i. 79 Gallis Celtics pars, M. h. g. ib» Gallins aves faers 81 Garion Fluvius, L h. 90 Geographi veteres 79,80 Genania Regio 89 Genefis Liber 83 Germani Pop. 87 Germania Magna Regio 80 Germania 79> 80, 93 Germanicum Mare 85 GelToriacus Portus Brit. 79 » 96 Geflbriacum Bononis Portus 79 » n- 159 GelToricum Urbs, L. h. 79 » 9 ^ Gladius Brittanicus 81 Glcbon, five Glevum Colonia, K. f. 90, 95, 97 » 104 Claudia Cognom. 95 Gobsum Promont. N. e. (JobaneumUrbs, five Gobanaium, 1 . f, 88,97 Grampius Mons, D. h. 93 Cjneci Pop. 88 103 Graicis literis utebantur DruiJes 83 Guethelinga Via 95 H, 1 ladrianus Imp. 1C4, 107 1 lalangium Uibs 88 1 lalongum Urbs L. c. vt Jupra, Harclinii Pop. G. b. Mebudes, vide Kbudes Infulse. Hedui Pop. K. ). 87, 90 lleduorum Ib^gio 88 F. J. Helena Imp. 89, 90, 105 Helenis Prom, five Helenum, L. e. 88 Hercules in Brit. Rex & Dens 80, 83 Herculea Infula, K. d. 88 Columns ib. Promontorium id. G" ib. Heriri Montes, H. f. vide Eriri Mons in E. Ad Heriri Montem Statio Herodianus Hilloricus Hiberni Pop. Ad Hiernam Statio Hifpania Tarraconenfis Hiftorici veteres Hiftoria Romana Homerus Mantuanus Horeftii Pop. E. g. Hybernia F. ad L. N. a. b. c. d. 80, 91, 92, 98, 99, 100, 103, 104, 105 I. Iberi Pop. Iberna, five Ibemus Fluvius, M. a. Ibernia Urbs Ibernii Pop. M, a. Iceni Pop. H. g. Idmana Fluvius, I. h. Jena Fluvius, E. e. lia Fluvius, B. h. Imperatores poll Trajanum Indigens Internum Mare Ifannavaria Statio, five Ifantavaria Ifamnium, G. d. Ifca Colonia, K. f. & Metrop. Cognominata Secunda Ifca fluvius, I. e. L. e. Ifca Civitas, Stipend E. e. Ificius Pifeis llinns Statio Jfthmus Brit. Ifurium Urbs, G. g. Ituna jEftuarium, F. f. Ituna Fluvius, D. h. & F. f. Ad Itunam Statio Itys Fluvius, C. g. Ivernis Metrop. I. b. vide Ibernia. j udsa Judsi Pop. Julius Martyr Jupiter Deus Juvenalis Satyricus K. K/jik ^iraiTirov Prom. Kriu Metapon Prom. M. d. L. Laberus Urbs, G. d. Ladiorodum Statio Ad Lapidem Statio Latars Statio Latera Albionis tria Latus Hibernis Meridionale Occidentale Orientale Septentrionale Lebarum Urbs, v.de fiipra Laberus Legatus 86 Legio 92 96 82 96 79 ib. 88 • 93 100 92 80 99 00 99 9 ^ 89 80, 82 88 96, 97 88, 97 ib. 97 84 96 9 L 92 91, 96 92, 93 96 94 80 105 o ^3 85, 86 88 idem 99 96, 97 96 79, 80 99 ib. ib. ib. E X. I N D Legio Secunda Augufta 86, 89, 104 Marcellus Legatus 108 Sexta Vidtrix 9 ^ Marcianus Geographus 79 Vigefima Vi6lrix 90 Mare Brittanicuin 99 Magna 105 Germanicum, E. ad I. i. Leglolium Statio 96» 97 Intelnum, F. G. H. f. e. d. 83 , 98 Legotium Statio idem Orcadum, A. h. Pigrum lOX Lelanonius Sinus, D. f. . 9 + Vergivium, K. L. c. d. Lelanus Sinus idem Thule, A. B. C. i. Lemana Fluvius, L. h. Margaritae Brlttanicte 81, 85, 104 Lemanianus Portus 97 Margidunum Statio 97 Ad Lemanum Statio ib. Mats Deus 8? Lemanus Fluvius, idem cum Lemana Maxima Prov. G. f. g. 85, 86 Lemanus Urbs, K. h. 86 Csfarienfis 96, 104 Lepores Sacri Brit. 8t Maximus Imp. 105 Leucarum Statio 97 In Medio Statio 97 Libnius Fluvius, I. a. 99 Mediolanum Urbs, L f. 89, 9 6, 97 » 99 A Limite 96 Mela Geographus 80, 98, lOO Limnia Inf. G. d. eadem cum Silimno lOi Menapia Urbs, L d. K. d. 97 » 99 Lindum Colonia, FJ. g. 91 , 95, 96, 97 Ad Menapiam Statio 97 Lindum Urbs, E. g. 92, 96 Menapii Pop. L c. 9Q, 100 Livius Hiftoricus 80 Meneviacum Fietum 89 Loca defedtiva occurrunt in 92, 95 > , 96, 97, Merces varise 81 99, 106, 107, 108 Mercurius Deus 83 Loebius Fluvius, H. c. 99 Mertre Pop. B. h. 94 Logi Pop. C. h 94 Metaris jEftuarium, H. h. 90 Logia Fluvius, F. d. Metoris Sinus Id. Londinium Augufta Colonia & Metrop. Migrationes Gentium 80, 87, 9 L 94 » 99 » K. g. 90 > 95 » 97 100, 103, 105 Londinum 94 Minerva Dea 83» 87 Lundinum 90 Modona Fluvius, I. d. Longus Fluvius, C. f. 94 Mona Inf. H. e. 84, 89 Lovantum Urbs, five Lovantium 89 Monachi cuftodes Hiftori^ 94 Loxa Fluvius, C. h. 94 Monapia Inf. I. d. Lucani Pop. M. a. 99 Ad Montem Grampium Statio 96 Lucanus Poeta 84, 86 Montes 99 Lucilianus Legatus 108 Monumenta veterum 85, 87, 89, 92, 9? Lucius Rex 104 Moricambe Fluvius, G. f. Lucophibia Urbs, quse Candidae Cafae 92 Moridunum Statio 97 Lucullus Legatus 107 Morini Pop. K. i. & L. f. 79, 88 Luentium Urbs, L e. idem cum Lovantio Mofes 83. 95 Lugubalia Civit. Lat. jure don. F. f. 95, 96, Municipia in Brit. 95 9 * Muri Romani 85, 91, 92 Lugubalium Urbs idem Muridunum Civit. Stipend. I. e. 89 Luguballia Urbs eadem Ad Murum Statio 96 Luguvalium idem Mufidum Urbs 88 Lundinium Urbs, vide fupra Mulldunum Urbs, L d. idem. V. Lupus Legatus 108 Lutetia, Parifiorum Metropolis, M. i. N. Lybia 85 Nabceus Fluvius, B. h. 94 Lyncalidor Lacus, D. f. for fan [ hodie Loch- Nagnata Urbs, H. b. 99 Lomond. Nagnatae Pop. 'ib. M. Naves Britonum 81 Mactae Pop. 92 Nero Imperat. 104 Macedonia 85 Nidum Statio 97 Macobicum Urbs . 99 Nidus Fluvius, E. f. &: K. e. Macolicum, K. a idem Nonnulli Scriptores 100 Madus Fluvius 87. Statio 97 Novantae Pop. E. e. 92 Monmda Inf. G. e. 98 Novantes ib. Magioviniuin Statio 96 Novantia Regio ib. Magna Urbs, I. f. 88 Novantum Cherfonefus, E. d. 80, 92 Magnus Portus, L. g. 87 Noviomagus, K. g. 87» 97 Sinus, FI. a. Novius Fluvius 92 Maleos Inf. C. e. 0. Manavia, eadem cum Monseda. Oboca Fluvius, L c. Mancunium Statio 96 Oceanus Athlanticus qui &; Brittanicus Mandueffedum Statio 96» 97 Fide fupra in Mare Manduefledum idem. Cantabricus 99 Manlius Dux 00 Deucaledonius, A. d. e. ib. VOL. II. B b b Internus Oceanus Internus 99 Septentrionalis 86 Vergivus, vide in Mcive Ocetus Infula, B. i. Ocrinum Mons, L. e. 88 Promontorium, M. c. 79, 80 Oflorupium Prom. I. d. 89 Oeftrominides Infulae 88 Olicana, G. g. 91, 96 Opinio veterum 79 Oracula Gallici numinis lOI Orcades inf. B. h. 94, lOO, 104 Orcadum Piomont. 94 Orcas Prom. B. h. ib. Ordovicia Regio 89 Ordovices Pop. H. e. L f. ib. Orrea Urbs, E. g. 93 > 9 ^’ 97 Offifmica Littora Ofbium, FI. Rheni. I. i. lOI Oftrea- 86 Oftorius Scapula Legatus 89, 91, 94, 104, 106 Ottadini Pop. E. F. g. 92 Ottadinia Regio Oxellum Montes, C. g. ib. Oxellum Promont. H. h. P. Paludes, K. f. 91 P 105 ’ 106 Pigrum Mare lOI A. Plautius Legatus 106 Plinius Philofophus 84, 89 Ad Pontem Statio 97 Plumbum album 85 Pluto Deus 83 Prima Provincia, K. g, L. d. e, f. 85, 86, 88 Portus Anderida 97 Felix, G. g. 91. 97 Magnus 8?’ 97 Rhutupis 79’ 86 Siftuntiorum, G. f. 96 Prrefcclus Pr.-storii Gallire 86 Prrefides Prov. ib. Prafutagus Rex 91 Ih'retentura, /. e. Vallum 92 Prreturia Statio q6 Praefuri uin id. Ptolcrnsus Geograpluis 80, 90, 95, 100 Ptoraton, C. h. Metrop. Lat. j. don. 93, 95, 96 Pyrenaeus Mons, N. b. R. Racina Infula, D. F,. d. lOI Rag$ Civitas Stipend. H. g :• 9I’ 95 Ratis-corion Uibs 97 Regentium Urbs 87 Regia Urbs, G. b, & L. a. Regiminis Foirna 99 apud Britones 82 in Provinciis Roman . Britann, 86 Regnum Brigantia; 91 Cantiorum 87 Caffium 90 Icenorum 91 Silurum 89 Regnum,y/w Regentium, Urbs Regulbium, K. h. 86, 97 Reguli 86 Religio Brittonum 82, 83 Rerigonum Urbs,yjz;^ Rerigonium, £.0.91,96 Rerigonus Sinus, D. e. Reuda Rex Rheba Metropolis, H. b. Rhebius Fluvius, H. b. 99, Rhebius Lacus, G. b. Rhemi Pop. vide Bibroci. Rhenus Fluv. Rhobogdii Populi, F. d. c. b. Rhobogdium Urbs Rhobogdium Prom. E. d. Rhodanus Fluv Rhutupi Coi. & Metrop. K, h. Rhutupina Littora ORrea Rhutupis Colonia Portus 79, Ricardus monachus Weftmonafterienfis Ricnea Infula, vide Racina Roma Urbs 82, 103, 106 Romana Infula, i. e. Brittania Romani Populi, pajjjim. Rufina Urbs, M. h.jive Rhufina 99 Rutunium Statio 96 S. Sabrina ^^iftuar. K. f. Sabrina Fluvius Sabrinae Fretum Ad Sabrinam Statio Sacrum Extremum Sacrum Prom. I. d. Salinae LTrbs, I. f. Sariconium Urbs, vide Ancornnm. Sarmatae Pop. Sarna Infula Saturninus Praef. ClalT. Saxones Pop. H. b. 105 100 ib. 87 99 ib. ib. 91 86 ib. ib. 86, 95 86 , 97 103 90 85, 87, 88, 89, 90 88 97 99 ib. 90, 96 Scotti P©p. G. Scotia infula Secunda Prov. H. f. I. e. 94 101 107 105 93, 99, 100 100 Segontiaci Pop. K. g. Segontium Civitas Stipend. H. e. Selgovs Pop. F. f. Regio Ad Selinam Statio Sena Fluvius, L. a. Senae Fons, II. c. Sena Infula, N. e. Senae Sacerdotes Senie defertae Infulae, L. a. Senones Pop. C. Sentius Legatus Senus Fluvius, videfupra Sena Septemtriones 79, Sepulchra Brittonum Sequana Fluvius, M. h. Seteia Iluvius, H. f. Severus Imperator S. Severus Legatus Sexta Colonia, Eboracum Sicilia Infula 99 87 89, 96 92 ■ib. 96 100 lOI ib. 87, 10.3 io 5 80, 85, 98 -82 91 105, 108 107 91, 95, 96 79, 108 Siediles N D E X. Sigdiles Infulae, vtde fupra Caffiterides. Silimnus Infula lOi Silures Pop. 1 . f. e. 8o, 85, 88, 89, go Sinus Aquatanici pars, N. d. Siftuntii Pop. F. G. f. Siftuntiorum Portus 96 SUoinagus Statio ' 96 Sorbiodunuin Civitas, Lat, jure don. K. f. 87, 95, 97 Solinus Polvhiftor 81, 88, 98, 100, lOi Sotheaniptona 87 Spinae Statio 97 Stannum 81, 88 Stilicho Dux 105 Stuccia Fluvius, I. a. Straba Fluvius, B. h. Strabo Philofophus 82 Status Belgicus 86 Cantianus tb. ^ Damnonicus ib. Ad Sturium Amnem Statio g6 Sturius Fluvius 87 Suetonius Hiftoricus 104 Suetonius Paulinus Legatus 91, 104, 107 Sulomagus Statio g6 Surius Fluvius, I. h. 90, K. h. 87 Sygdiles Infuls, vide fupra, Sylva Caledonia, H. g. 87, 91, 94 Tabulae veterum Geogr. 79, 80 C. Tacitus Hiftoricus 80, 81, 90, lOo, 106 Taixali Populi 93 Taixalorum Angulus 80 Prom. C. . 93 Tamara Fluvius, M. d. 88 Tamara Urbs tb, Tamarus FI. ut fupra. Tamea Urbs, D. g. 93, 97 Tamefis Statio 96 Ad Tavum Statio 96 Tavus Fluvius, D. g. 87, 92, 93 Termolum Urbs, K. e. 88 Termolus idem. Teutones Populi in Flybernia 99 Texalii Pop. D. h. vide Taixali Thamefis Fluvius, K. g. 85, 87, 88, 8g, 90, 96 Thanatos Infula, K. h. lOi Theodolia Civitas, Latio Jure don. E. f. 93 » 95 Theodofius Imp. 92, 93, 105 Thermae Colonia, K. f. 87, 104 Cognom. Aquae Solis 95 Thetis Dea pro Oceano 86, 106 Thule Infula ultima, A. i. 100, 101 Provincia 93 Tiberius Imperator 106 Tibia Fluvius 97 Tibius, I. e. idem. 'I'ina Fluvius, E. h. & F. g. 92, 93 Ad Tinam Statio 96 Tindlura coccinei Coloris mirifica 85 Tifa Fluvius, G. g. 96 Ad Tifam Statio ib. Titius Fluvius, N. f. Tobius Fluvius, I. e. 89 90, 92 89, ic6 97 107 ib. 92, 96 90 ib, ib. 96» 97 9 » 97 92, 96 ibid. 93 96 107 Tolibus Fluvius Traditiones Trajmus Imperator Traje<£tus Statio Trebellius Legatus Trebellius Maximus Legatus Trimontium Urbs Trinobantes Pop, I. h. Trinobantum R^gio Trinovantum Urbs Tripontium Statio Trifanton Fluvius, L. g. Trivona Fluvius, H. f. Ad Trivonam Statio Trophreum, vel ' ra quaedam, E. g. Tueda Fluvius, E. f. Ad Tuedam Statio Tuerbius Fluvius, I e. Tuellis Fluvius, D. h. Urbs, ibid. Ad Tueffim Statio Turpilianus Legatus U. Vaga Fluvius, I. f. Vagnaca Statio 97 Valentia Provinc. five Valentiana, E. i. g. F, f. g. 85, 89, 92 Vallum Antonini, E. f. g6 Severinum, F. g. Ad Vallum Statio 96, 97 Vacomagi Populi, D. g. 93 Vanduaria Urbs, E. f. 92 Varre Statio 96, 97 Varar ^Eftuarium, D. h. Fluvius 86, 94 Varionius Legatus, rediitis Verannius 106 Vatarze Statio 96 YQ6ka., Jive Ve£l:is Infula, L. g. loi, 104, 106 Veflurones Populi, E. g. 93 Vedrre Fluvius, F. g. Velaborii, five Velatoril Populi, L. a. 99 Venetae, five Veneti Populi, N. f. 80 Venicniae Pop. 99 Infulae ib. Venicnium Caput ib. Venifnia Infula, F'. a. 99 Vennonae Urbs, vide Bennonae is' Benonae fupra. ! Vennicnii Populi, G.z..vide Venicnise Pop. Vennicnium Prom. v. Venicnium Caput. Venriconcs Populi, E. g. 93 Venromentum Statio 97 Venta Urbs, K. f. 97 Belgarum, K. g. Civit. Stipend. 87 Cenom. 1 . h. Civit. Stipend. 90, 95, 96 Silurum, K. f. Civ. Stip. 88, 95, 97 Ventageladia Statio 97 Venutius Rex 89 Verannius Legatus, videfuprn. Vergivus Oceanus, v. fupra Oceanus. Vericonium Urbs, H. f. 89 Verlucio Statio 97 Verolamium Municipium, I. g. 90, 95, 96 Ve! ubium 1 N D E X. Verubium Promont. 94 Verulamium Mun. vide fupra. Vel'pafiana qu$ et Thule Prov. D. f. g. h. 86, 92, 93, 105, 107 Vefpafianus Imperator 88, 104, 106, 107 Veliigia Authorum 86 Vetera Monumenta 87 Veterum Traditiones, ib. vide Traditiones, Via Guethelinga, v. fupra in G. Julia 97 Vicarius Brittanire 86 Vi£Ioria Dea 83, 90 Victoria, E. g. Civitas Lat. J. don. 93, 95, 96, 97 Vidogara Fluvius, E. e. Vidua Fluvius, F. b. 99 Ad Vigelimum Statio 97 Vindelia Infula, L. f. Jive Viudelios lOi Vindelis Prom. L. f. Vinderus Fluvius, F. d. 99 Vmdomora Statio 96 Vindomum, Jive Vindonum, 6cc. K. g. Ci¬ vitas Stipend. 87, 95, 97 Vinovium Urbs, F. g. 91, 96 Vmdovium idem. Vinvedrum Prom. 94 Virgilius Maro 79, 100 Viriconium, Virioconium, vide fupra Ve- riconium. Virvedrum Prom. A, i. v. Vinvedrum. ATrubrium Prom. B. h. v, Verubium. Vifei jEftimatio ^3 Vitucadrus, Mars Brit. 83 Ulyfles in Brittania Ulyffis Ara, vide in A. 93 Vodias Populi, L. b. 99 Alodium ib. Volantii Pop. 9 E 99 A-^olfas Sinus, B. g. 94 Voluba Urbs, M. d. 88, 97 Voluntii Pop. F. G. f. be G. d. v. Volantii. Vorreda Statio 96 L. Urbicus Legatus 107 Unconium, vide Vericonium Urbs. Urioconium, idem. Urus Fluvius 91 Uxaconia Statio 96 Uxella Fluvius, K. e. 88, 92 Uxella Mons, E. e. 92 Uxella Urbs, L. f. 88 Ad Uxellam Amnem 97 Uxellum Urbs, F. f. 92 AV. AVantfua .Eftuarium lOI Wallia Regio 88 AVeft-Cheftur qQ THE PLATES I N ITINERARIUM CURIOSUM, Cent. II. And where explained. VOLUME I. Page 1 "XTONUMENT ofLlttlebury i VI in Hoi beach Church 2 Hoi beach Crofs 3 Bofton Crofs 4 View of Croyland Abbey 5 Profpedb of Alcefter, Alaun» 6 Alauna^ another View 7 Tamefe, Tame 8 Branav 'ts^ Banbury 9 Prte fidium, Warwick Northamp- 25 26 27 28 20 23 32 33 40 40 43 48 49 63 63 67 10 Spina, Newbury 11 Cunetio, Marlborough J2 Glevum, Gloucefter 13 Durohrivis, Carter in ton/hire 14 Brig-Carterton 7 15 Ancarter 16 Abontrus, Wintringham j 17 Aquis, Aukborough 18 Thornton College Gate-houfe 19 Carter in Lincolnfhire J 20 Syfer Spring there, a Roman work 21 Crocolana, Brough 22 Vernometum, Burrow hill 23 Roman Building at Leicerter ^ 24 Rawdikes, a Britirti Curfus near Leicerter View of Rawdikes Another of the fame Another View Benavona, Weedon on the Street 29 Durocobrivis, Berghamftead 30 Roman Wall at Rocherter 31 Profpedt of Kit’s-Coty Houfe, Kent 32 Ditto to the North-eaft 33 View from Kit’s-Coty Houfe 34 Another View of it j 35 Portus Rutupia, from Sandwich 36 Amphitheatre at Richborough 37 ProfpetSl towards Deal, from a Bar- row near Walmer Caftle 38 Roman Dubris ^ 39 Profpedt of Dover 40 Appearance of Dover when C$far landed J41 Roman Monuments found at Bath 148 ^ 42 Pars Brigantia, a Map 6 VoL. IL 82 84 86 95 96 100 101 102 103 108 109 109 114 116 120 120 124 125 127 128 43 Silchefter Amphitheatre 44 Caleva Atrebatum, Farnham 45 Roman Camp at Bere Regis 46 Regnum, Ringwood Page 178 202 189 190 II. 12 VOLUME 47 Cafaromagus, Chelmsford 48 Camulodunum, Colcherter 49 Profile of Julius Cjefar, from a Mar¬ ble of Dr. Mead’s 50 The Carpentry of Caefar’s Bridge over the Rhine 51 Side View of Csfar’s Bridge 52 Czefar’s Camp at Deal 53 Czefar’s Paflage over the Stour near Chilham 54 Caefar’s Camp on Bai ham Downs 55 View from a Roman Tumulus on Barham Downs 56 Julaber’s Grave 57 Another view of Julaber’s Grave from Chilham 58 Czefar’s Camp at Shephei ton 59 Czefar’s Camp on Greenfield Common 60 Czefar’s Camp on Hounflow Fleath 61 Czefar’s Camp at Pancras 62 Czefar’s Camp at Kingfbury 63 Roman Camp at Ravenfbury 64 Roman inferiptions (Vol. I.) 65 Roman Gate at Chefter 66 Roman Altars found at Cherter Carving on a Rock near Cherter A Sculpture found at Riflingham 69 Roman Monuments in Durham Li¬ brary 70 Roman Altar found at Elenborough 71 Back View of the Altar found at Elenborough 72 BafTo Relievo’s found at Elenborough 73 Roman Inferiptions femnd at Elen¬ borough J 74 Inferiptions found near the Pi 61 s Wall 75 Profpedl of Cherter on the 'Wall, and the Pias Wall 76 Antiquities at Hourteeds near the Wall 77 Track of the Wall towards Newcaftle 66 ' C c c 78 Cove 67 68 2 7 2 I, 8 2 67, 91 3 r 32 33 71 49 49 49 49 61 60 60 I N D E X. 78 Cove at Stanton Drew 172 79 Two Views at Stanton Drew 173, 176 80 Druid Temples 81 Druid Temples 82 View of the Giant’s Caftle In Glen- begg, Scotland 83 Celtic I’emples 84 Britirti Circus near Penrith 43 85 Six Barrows near Stevenage, Herts 86 Celtic Monuments in Germany 87 Celtic Monuments in Ireland 88 Celtic Monuments in Zeeland 89 Celtic Monuments in Ireland 90 Devil’s Arrows near Burrowbridge 74 91 Druid Temple and Grove at Trer- drew, Anglefey 92 Druid Temple at Winterburn THE 93 Kromlechen 94 Celtic Sepulchres ^95 Celtic Sepulchres 96 Brafs Celts 97 View of Mailing Abbey 98 South Arch of Yoi k Choir 99 Kirkley’s Abbey, Yorklhire TOO Religious Ruins 101 Temple of the Winds at Athens (Vol. I.) Pref. 102 Temple of Minerva at Syracufe (Vol. 1 .) Pref. 103 Bull of Marcus Modius at Wilton (Vol. 1 .) ... 185 Mappa Brittaniae Faciei Romanae, fecundum Fidem Monumento¬ rum perveterum depidia. E N D. ERRATA. Vol. I. Page 185./«r TAB. XLIV. WTAB. CIII. 2d Vol. 202. for TAB. XLVI. read TAB. XLIV. 2d Vol. Vol. IL Page 49. Iter Boreale, for TAB. LXIII read TAB. LXXIII. 71.--- for TAB. LXXIV. read TAB. LXIX. 177. Laft line, far of nature, rtad^ of this nature. I sr, . ■ 4 ^ \ I V M > - ?■ .V fpUO 3U0 w\ n:4 My' GtTTY CENTER LIBRARY . , .... ’ ' .- -m. '• i VllAlilitfflll*»