f 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
T H E 
 
 PRINCIPAL RUINS 
 
 ASIA MINOR, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED AND DESCRIBED. 
 
 CHAELES TEXIEE, 
 
 R. POPPLEWELL PULLAN, F.R.I.B.A. 
 
 LONDON : 
 PUBLISHED BY DAT & SON, 
 LITHOGEAPHEKS TO THE QDEEN, AND TO H.E.H. THE PIUNCE OF TALES, 
 (1, GATE STREET, LISCOLN'S INN FIELDS, W. C. 
 1865. 
 
TO THE 
 
 PRINCE VLANGALI-HANDJEEI, 
 
 IN REMBMBBANCE OF 
 
 MANY HAPPY DAYS SPENT TOGETHER WITHIN THE WALLS 
 OF HIS HOSPITABLE MANSION, 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 IS, WITH PERMISSION, DEDICATED 
 BY 
 
 THE AUTHORS. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IICIIITECTURE was foi'merly defined as— "A mathematical science giving rules for 
 designing and raising all sorts of structures according to Geometry and Proportion." And 
 such in reality it then was. The finest buildings of all ages— such as the Parthenon, 
 Westminster Abbey, Cologne Cathedral, St. Paul's, the Valhalla, and the New Palace of 
 "Westminster — though not all, perhaps, built according to rule, were designed according to 
 certain laws of proportion, of which every great architect, from Ictinus and Hermogenes 
 to William of Sens and William of Wykeham, and from Wren to Chambers, Barry, and Cockerell, has had 
 intuitive perception, and without the observance of which Architecture is nothing more than bad building. 
 
 In the present day, that important clement in Architectural beauty — Proportion — is, for the most part, 
 either altogether ignored, or else completely overlooked, in efforts after the picturesque, or in the adaptation 
 of buildings to suit the utilitarian and economical requirements of the age. Our ecclesiastical buildings are 
 frequently but imperfect imitations of ordinary town and village churches, or else so-called original compositions 
 in which stunted columns, top-heavy capitals, and windows absurdly elongated, are introduced by way of 
 novelty or for the sake of the contrasts produced by disproportion ; and our civic and other public edifices often 
 but shapeless masses of stone or brick, all wall or all window, without that relation between pier and aperture 
 so necessary to give the appearance of lightness and at the same time of stability. In short, we are groping 
 in the dark in search of the true principles of design. 
 
 Yet, a glimmering of light is beginning to be visible. Those who formerly were to be classed amongst 
 the most vehement opponents of all art that was not Medieval, are now ready to acknowledge that there is 
 something good even in Greek Architecture, which is pre-eminently based upon rules of proportion and geometry. 
 At last, the conviction that harmonious composition is inseparable from real beauty, is making itself felt ; so 
 that we may entertain good hopes of the Architecture of the future. We may believe that whether our suc- 
 cessors adopt one general style for every description of building, or whether (which would seem the more sensible 
 plan) they use one style, founded on ecclesiological principles, for their churches, and another, in which 
 magnificence and convenience shall be combined, for their civil and domestic buildings, they will perceive 
 that any edifice may be designed and erected according to the eternal rules of proportion, and, at the 
 same time, may preserve the distinctive characteristics of style. 
 
 No nation studied and applied to their buildings the laws of proportion to such an extent as did the 
 Greeks; and to what extent we are only just beginning to appreciate. Mr. P. C. Penrose, in his careful and 
 elaborate study of the Parthenon, and Mr. Watkiss Uoyd, iu his valuable Appendix to Mr. Cockerell's 
 "iEgina and Bassae," and in his Essay on the Theory of Proportion in Ai-chitectural Design and its 
 exemplification in detaU in the Parthenon, may be said to be the first who developed, beyond contradiction, 
 the actual system of proportion that the Greek architects employed in the design of their temples. Mr. 
 Watkiss Lloyd has discovered that this system was one of progressive ratios, and that it was applied to the 
 minor details, as well as for the purpose of determining the dimensions of a plan, and fixing the chief 
 lines of the elevation. 
 
 h 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 This being the case — if our future architecture is to be based upon the laws of proportion — every carefully 
 drawn aud measured example of pure Greek or Grteco-Roman architecture will become valuable for the purpose 
 of study; and therefore it is hoped that no apology need be considered necessary for the publication of au 
 English edition of a series of illustrations of some of the finest buildings of antiquity, selected from M. Tcxicr's 
 large work on Asia Minor, the high price of wliich precludes its circulation amongst those to whom it would 
 be most useful. 
 
 As the engravings were executed by the best engravers in Erance, and are therefore of the highest class, 
 they will probably not only be interesting and useful to the architect, but also attractive to men of 
 literary and refined tastes, to whom the names of the cities of Ionia and Caria are familiar. 
 
 The plates are preceded by a short narrative of various journeys made by me through that part of Asia 
 Minor in wMch some of the principal ruins illustrated are situated, given in language as plain and concise 
 as possible, and accompanied by historical notices compiled and abridged chiefly from the writings of M. 
 Texier, who, I believe, is the only traveller who has visited all the sites described. Detailed accounts of 
 the various routes followed are given, accompanied by a map, in the hope that the itineraries thus furnished 
 may be useful to other travellers. 
 
 My best thanks are due to Mr. C. Penrose for his kindness in revising the book for press during my 
 absence from England. And as travellers in foreign countries depend much for their comfort, and also for 
 the success of their undertakings, upon the good offices rendered them by friends resident there, and have 
 seldom the opportunity of expressing their gi'atitude, I cannot let this opportunity pass without thanking 
 my various friends at Smyrna and elsewhere for hospitality shown me during my sojourn among them, and 
 for the assistance they attbrdcd me by furthering the objects of my visit as far as lay in thcii' power. 
 
 U. P. P. 
 
 London, Junncmj, 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 P. 22, line 2, /or Alexandritt Iconea read Alcxan'lria Tioaa. , 
 
 „ „ for abnomous read autonomous. 
 
 P. line. 8, foT these piinctis read the invaders, 
 P. 43, line 26, fur lie!ced«e read, exedi're. 
 P. 48, line 8, for altei-atious read alteration. 
 
CONT 
 
 ENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 INTRODUCTION 1 
 
 ^OLIA 7 
 
 TOWNS OE ^OLIA lo 
 
 Elaea 10 
 
 Gryniiun \\ 
 
 Myrina 1 1 
 
 Cjme , 11 
 
 TEGS 13 
 
 An Historiciil Aucinmt of Teos ig 
 
 THE TEOAD, ASSOS, AND PEftGAMUS 17 
 
 Aaaoa 1 g 
 
 List of Corns of Mysia and tlie Troad 21 
 
 PEIENE, BEANOHID^, AND HERAOLEIA 33 
 
 Priene 28 
 
 Labnttida 23 
 
 The City of Mjua 29 
 
 COLOPHON AND ERVTHH.^3 31 
 
 DEyCRIPTION OF THE PLATES, 
 
 ASSOS 37 
 
 APOLLO BEANCHID.^ 41) 
 
 AIZANI 42 
 
 ANCYEA 45 
 
 APHEODISIAS 47 
 
 ASPENDUS 49 
 
 IAS8US 61 
 
 MYRA 52 
 
 PATAEA 51 
 
 THE BASILICA OF PERGAMUS 55 
 
LIST OP 
 
 PLATES. 
 
 riale 
 
 Frontwpiece — Map of the West Coast of Asia Minor. 
 
 1. Assoa — The Front Elevation of the Temple. 
 
 2. Asaoa — Details of the Order, 
 
 3. Tlio Temple of Apollo Bi-anchidie — View of the Columns, 
 
 4. The Temple of Apollo Brancliidui — Plun and Ele\'ation. 
 
 5. The Temple of Apollo Brauohidte — Details of the Order. 
 
 C, Tho Temple of Apollo Branohidie — Capitals of Internal Pilasters, 
 
 7. The Temple of Apollo Branchidte — Capitals of Pilasteis. 
 
 8. The Temple of Apollo Brancliidie — Capital of PUaster — Seated 
 
 Eigui'B fi^m Sacred Way. 
 
 9. The Temple of Apollo Branohidie — Fragment of Sculpture. 
 
 10. Aizani — The Temple of Jupiter— General View of the Ruins. 
 
 11. Aizani — The Temple of Jupiter — Restoration of t)iG Temjile. 
 13, Aizaiii— Tho Temple of Jupiter — Plan iuid S(;ction of the 
 
 Temjile. 
 
 !3. Aizani— The Temple of Jupiter — Elevation of the Poaticum. 
 l i. Aizani— The Temple of Jupiter-— Section through the Pei-istyle. 
 15. Aiuani — The Temple of Jupiter — ^Detaila of the Order. 
 Ifi. Aiziuii— The Temple of Jupiter— Details of the Order. 
 
 17. Aizani- Tlie Temjilc of Jupiter— Capitals of the Antte anr! 
 
 Cornice tif Colla. 
 
 18. Aizani— The Temple of Jupiter— Detail of the Wall of Cella. 
 
 19. Aizani — Theati-e — Ground Plan. 
 
 20. Aizani— Theatre— Details of the Order. 
 
 21. Aimni — Theatre — Details of Ornament. 
 
 22. Tlie Augiisteum, Ancjra — Genei-al View. 
 
 23. The Augusteum, Ancyra — Ground Plan. 
 
 34:. Tlic Augusteum, Ancyi'a — Elevation of Nao.^ and Section tlimugh 
 Prcnuiai. 
 
 Plate 
 
 25. Tho Augusteum, Ancyra — Capitals of Pilasters with a Portion 
 
 of the Frieze. 
 
 26. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — General View of the Ruins. 
 
 27. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — Ground Plan, 
 
 28. The Temjile of Venus, Aphrodisias — Front Elevation. 
 
 29. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — Order of the Temple, 
 
 30. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — Principal Order of the 
 
 Peviholus. 
 
 31. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — Small Order of the Periboliis. 
 
 32. The Temple of Venus, Aphrodisias — ^Details of the Peribolu.s. 
 
 33. Aapendua — View of the Interior of Theatre. 
 
 34. Aspendua — View of the Exterior of Theatre. 
 
 35. 36. Aspendus— Elevation of the Exterior of Theatre. 
 
 37. Aspendus — Section through the Theatre, 
 
 38. Aspendus- Upper Order of the Theatre. 
 
 39. Aspendus — Elevation of the Proscenium. 
 iO. Aspendus— Details of lonio Entablature. 
 
 41. lasaua — Oeneral Plan of the City. 
 
 42. Myra— Plaa of the Theatre. 
 
 43. Myi-a — Proscenium of the Theatre, restored aud in its iietual 
 
 44. Myra — Section through the Proscenium. 
 
 45. Myra — Order of the Theati'o. 
 
 46. Myra— View of a Tomb cut in the Rock, 
 
 47. Patara — Details of PUaster of a Temple. 
 
 48. Patara— Details of Doorway. 
 
 49. Pergamus— View of the Rnius of tlie Ba.iilica. 
 
 50. Pergamus— Ground Plan of the Basiliai, 
 
 51. Pergamus- Elevation and Section of the Basilica. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 nE vast peninsula of Asia Minor, naturally fertile and advantageously situated between 
 the Euxine and the Mediterranean, lias, from the earliest period of history, been at once 
 the prize for which Europe contended with Asia, and the field upon which the contest 
 was carried on. Its position in the centre of the ancient world, and the communication it 
 had by sea with all th? ports of the then civilized world, rendered it suitable for the site 
 of a great empire. It is not, then, surprising that the possession of it was coveted by the 
 Greeks, nor that they waged, for a series of years, the most sanguinary wars in order to 
 obtain it. We find them settled on its western coasts ten centuries before the Christian era. The jEolijvns from 
 the Peloponnesus founded twelve cities, of which Smyrna was the chief. The lonians built Ephcsus, 
 Colophon, and Clazoraenaa. The Dorians took possession of Caria and founded the sis cities of Cos, Cnidus, 
 lindus, Camirus, and lalysus, which united themselves in a league, and were known by the term of Hexapolis. 
 
 That the various cities founded by the Greeks on the coast of Asia were prosperous and powerful, not- 
 withstanding the vicissitudes of war, we have not only the evidence afforded by the writings of Herodotus, 
 Strabo, Pliny, and other historians and geographers, but the strongest proofs in the numerous ruins of their 
 temples and other public buildings, which were on a more magnificent scale than those of Greece Proper. 
 The Temple of Diana at Ephesus was 425 feet long by 220 broad, and the largest in the world. 
 The Uerajum of Samos was 346 feet long by 189 broad. 
 The Didymffion of Miletus, 2D5 feet by 156. 
 The Temple of Cybele at Sardis, 261 feet by 144. 
 
 Of these splendid structures, and of the cities which they adorned, there arc many remains — silent witnesses 
 to the truth of early history. 
 
 As education and enlightenment spread throughout Europe, the learned became anxious to receive well- 
 authenticated accounts of this most interesting country, an acquaintance with which was essential to a thorouiih 
 knowledge of history ; and antiquaries, especially, were desirous of obtaining accurate delineations of the 
 remains of the monuments of antiquity with which it abounded. 
 
 But many circumstances combined to render this information scanty and infrequent. The country being 
 in the hands of a semi-barharous people, was difficult to traverse ; the hostility of the Mahometans to Christians 
 was extreme ; the government was feeble, and the whole country overrun by lawless bands of robbers ; lastly, 
 the hardships and privations were so great that only the most adventurous would run the risk of travelling 
 in the interior, and of these only a few were competent to afford accounts sufficiently accurate for antiquarian 
 and historical purposes. 
 
 Paul Lucas was the first who traversed the peninsula. His first voyage commenced in 1699, He then 
 visited Egypt, Syria, and Persia, and returned by Cyprus, Rhodes, and Broussa, to Constantinople. In 1704 
 he again left Prance for Constantinople, whence he travelled to Nicomedia, Nieaea, Kutayah, and Ancyra. 
 Afterwards he visited Smyrna, Sardis, Attalia, Sagalassus, and Koniah, His descriptions of the ruins he saw 
 are short and unsatisfactory, and the engravings in his hook incorrect. 
 
 After Lucas, Spon and Wheler, at the end of the 17th century, went from Constantinople to Smyrna by 
 Thyatira, and afterwards to Ephesus. The account they give of their tour is interesting, and the information 
 they aiford is on the whole very accurate. Their book contains some interesting details of a tour to the 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 valley of the Mjcander iu 1673, by Mr. Pickering, Jfi-. Salter, and some other Smyrna merchants. They passed 
 by Changli to Priene, then to Miletus, and visited the Temple of Apollo Branchidte, which Mr. Pickering 
 mistook for the Mausoleum. They then went to lassus, Mylassa, Stratonicfea, and returned by way of the 
 Seven Churches. 
 
 After Spon, Tournefort, botanist to Louis XIV., was dispatched on a mission to Turkey in 1700. He 
 passed from Constantinople to Trcbizond by sea, visited Georgia and Armenia, and then returned by way of 
 Tokat and Angora to Eroussa. Thence he went to Smyrna, visiting ApoUonia and Magnesia in his way. 
 He afterwards went to Ephesus, Scala Nova, and Samos. His narrative ia very clear, aud well illustrated 
 by engravings of antiquities and views of cities. 
 
 Pococke, in the beginning of the 18th century, passed several times through Bithynia, Galatia, and 
 Ionia, and gives very full accounts of all that be saw ; but, according to Colonel Leake, his narrative is in 
 places confused, and not so good as might have been expected from such an accomplished scholar. 
 
 Corancez traversed a great part of Asia Minor between the years 1809 and 1812. His Itineraiy, 
 published in 1812, appears to be little known. After visiting Syria, he landed at Kelonderis, and passed 
 tbrougli Anamour, Alayah, Side, Attalia, through Cibyra to Taba; and Aphrodisias, and thence to Con- 
 stantinople. 
 
 However complete the descriptions of ruins given by these travellers, the illustrations of their books 
 were of inferior quality, and up to Pococke's time no person competent to make measured drawings of the 
 ruins had visited the country. As an appreciation of the elegant architecture of the Greeks became more 
 general, the want of correct delineations was much felt, especially by scholars and antiquaries. Consequently, 
 in 1764, the Society of Dilettanti, which was founded in 1734 by a number of gentlemen who had travelled 
 on the Continent, and who were desirous of improving the public taste in matters relating to architecture, 
 resolved to send out properly- qualified persons to the East, " in order to collect information, and make 
 observations relative to the ancient state of those countries, and to such monuments of antiquity as were stUl 
 remaining." Dr. Chandler was selected as Director to an Expedition, Mr. Eevett as architect, and Mr. Pais 
 as painter. They left England in June, 1761, and returned in September, 1766, having visited during that 
 period the Troad, Smyrna, ClazomenEe, Tecs, Ephesus, Miletus, Priene, Heraclea, Mylasa, Stratoniciea, Tralles, 
 LaodicEca, Hierapolis, Colossjc, Sardls, Pergamus, and Thyatira. The results of their labours were published 
 in a 4to volume by Dr. Cliandler, in 1775, iu two folio volumes of plates with descriptions, issued by the 
 Society in 1769, under the title of " Antiquities of Ionia ; " of these there were two editions. The archi- 
 tectural details of several temples are given in this volume, well drawn and engraved ; but as the Mission 
 had no funds for excavations, the information obtained was in many cases incomplete. 
 
 In 1811, a second Mission was dispatched to the Levant to obtain further information, consisting of 
 Sir William Cell, accompanied by two architects, Messrs. Gandy and Bedford. They were instructed to 
 visit Samos, Sardis, Aphrodisias, Hierapolis, Tralles, Laodicrca, Telmissus, Patara, Cnidus, Halicamassus, 
 Magnesia ad M^andrum, Priene, and Branchida^ ; and also several places in Greece. The results were published 
 in a third volume of the " Ionian Antiquities," and in the " Inedited Antiquities of Attica." 
 
 Meanwhile, Erance had sent Gouffier Choiseul, who visited Greece and the western shores of Asia Minor 
 in the year 1772, and published in 1782 several interesting views, with architectural details, in his "Voyage 
 Pittoresque." 
 
 In the same year that Sir AVilliam Gell started for Asia Minor, Captain Beaufort commenced his 
 important survey of the wliole southern coast of the peninsula, from Syria to the Gulf of Seandevoon. He 
 made several discoveries in Lycia ; indeed, he may be said to be the lirst to make known the existence of 
 entire cities in ruins in that extraordinary territory. A year later, Professor Coekerell visited Lycia in the 
 course of a tour in Asia Minor. Some of the results of his obsei-vations have been made public in the 
 supplement to Leake's "Asia Minor;" but it is much to bo regretted that the greater part of his notes, 
 which would be invaluable to the architect and archjeologist, remain unpublished. 
 
 Colonel Leake, — one of the most accurate of all travellers in Turkey, — in 1805 traversed the continent, 
 passing from Constantinople to Kelenderis. He returned by sea, touching at Cnidus, Assos, and other 
 important places on the coast. His geographical studies and the indications given by him of the probable 
 sites of ancient cities have been most valuable to succeeding travellers, and have led to the identification 
 of many important places. 
 
 A few years later, Kiuneir travelled from one end of the peninsula to the other. He docs not, how- 
 ever, appear to have devoted much time to the observation of ruins. 
 
 Mr. Arundel, the British chaplain at Smyrna, visited the Seven Churches between 1820 and 1830, and 
 subsequently made an excursion for the purpose of discovering the site of Antiocli in Pisidia, during which 
 he identified several celebrated sites. 
 
 In 1833 M. Guizot, the enlightened IVlinister of Public Instruction in Fmnce, conrmissioncd M. Charles 
 
rNTRUDUC'TION, 
 
 3 
 
 Texier to explore Asia Minor and Persia. M. Texier spent several years in these countries. He passed 
 through Bithynia and the central provinces, and returned to Constantinople, afterwards visiting Mysia, ^olia, 
 Caria, and Lycia. He made careful detailed drawings of all the finest monuments existing in the country. 
 These were published by the order and at the cost of the French Government, upon his return to Europe, 
 in three folio volumes. The engravings were by the best artists, and executed at great cost. On account of 
 the great expense of the work, it has not been generally accessible ; consequently the beautiful edifices illustrated 
 in it have not been studied as much as they deserve. 
 
 A second Expedition was undertaken by M. Texier, for tho purpose of removing the friezes of the Temple 
 of Diana Leucophryne at Magnesia ad Mteandrum. This operation was successfully performed. The vase of 
 Pergamus and the frieze of the Temple of Neptune at Assos also were then obtained for the collection of 
 the Louvre. 
 
 In 1835, Mr. Hamilton, Secretary to the Geological Society, in company with Mr. Strickland, an eminent 
 geologist, thoroughly explored the coast of the Black Sea as far as Trebizond, then penetrated to Kars, and 
 passed through the interior of the country, following a zigzag course, so as to traverse a great space of 
 ground. In the two yolumes published by Mr. Hamilton we find the most careful journal of observations made 
 by any traveller. His astonishing accuracy must strike every one who has in any way followed in his steps- 
 Other travellers visited the coast at various times. The most distinguished of these was, without doubt, 
 Mr. Layard ; but. his attention was devoted almost exclusively to Assyrian antiquities, and he but cursorily 
 notices the ruins of later times. Amongst other travellers was Sir Charles Eellowes, who went from Con- 
 stantinople to Adalia, visiting Aizani, Sagalassus, and other important sites by the way. He then skirted the 
 coast of Syria as far as Patara, in the neighbourhood of which town he discovered the important remains of 
 the city of Xanthus. He afterwards journeyed northwards to Smyrna by way of the valley of the Micandcr. 
 After his return to England, he represented to the trustees of the British Museum the desirability of removing 
 tbe Xanthian marbles. An Expedition was consequently dispatched under Captain Graves, Sir Charles Eellowes 
 volunteering to accompany it. The hne tombs and sculptures now in the Lycian room of (he British Museiim 
 were then brought away. Sir Charles Eellowes' travels and his notes of the Expedition are well known. 
 
 During the sojourn of the Expedition on these coasts, three members of it — Lieutenant (now Captain) 
 Spratt, Professor Eorbes, and the Eev. J. Daniell — explored Lycia thoroughly, and made plans of all the 
 principal mined towns. The results of their labours were made public in two very interesting volumes. 
 
 Mr. Ainsworth, who accompanied the Euphrates Expedition in the capacity of geologist, was enabled to 
 explore most of the eastern provinces of Asia Minor, and his narrative of his various journeys, containing 
 precise and accurate descriptions of the ruins ho visited, is one of the most pleasing books of travels in this 
 part of the East that we possess. 
 
 In 1862, Mr. C. Newton, now keeper of Greek and Roman antiquities at the British Museum, was 
 appointed Viee-Consul at Mitylene, chiefly in the interest of art and archffiology. He thoroughly explored most 
 of the islands, and frequently visited the mainland, where ho made many interesting discoveries. It had 
 been ever bis ambition to discover tbe site of the sepulchre of Mausolus, king of Caria, which was considered 
 one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. In 1855 he visited Budrum, and there found traces of fine 
 Greek sculpture sufficient to induce him to ask assistance from the Government, which was at once granted. 
 A ship of war, the Gorgon frigate, an officer of the Eoyal Engineers, Lieut. Smith, and a detachment of 
 sappers, were dispatched to aid him in his operations. In tbe month of January, 1857, he had the satisfaction 
 of ascertaining without doubt that he had eorae upon the site of tho Mausoleum, and before the expiration 
 of the year he had obtained sufficient architectural data to determine tho plan of the monument and its 
 general dimensions ; and he had brought to ligbt the magnificent series of sculptures now in the British 
 Museum. In December, 1857, Mr. Newton proceeded to Cnidus, for the piu-pose of thoroughly exploring that 
 ancient city, the ruins of which had been visited by Sir William Gell and tlie second Mission of tbe Dilettanti 
 Society. Here he made excavations on the site of the Temple of Venus, at tlie Lion Tomb, the lower theatre, 
 and the temenos of Hecate. 
 
 During the years 1857-58, Mr. Newton and Lieut. Smith were enabled to explore the whole of that part 
 of Caria, from Labranda and Euromus to the Bay of Marmarice, opposite the island of Rhodes. 
 
 Amongst other discoveries made was that of the ruins of tbe Temple of Hecate at Lagina, with the sculpture 
 slabs of its frieze in tolerable preservation. Lieut. Smith identified the site of Labranda, where was situated 
 the celebrated Temple of Jupiter; and Mylasa, Myndus, Bargalia were visited, and the island of Cos was 
 thoroughly explored. Mr. Newton also visited the ruins of the Temple of Apollo Branchida;, and brought from 
 the Sacred Way which led to it the series of figures now in the corridor of the British Museum. 
 
 In 1857 I was sent out by the Government to join the Expedition, with which I remained a year. During 
 this time I visited Budrum and Cnidus, explored the island of Cos, and upon my way home visited the site 
 of Troy and Thessalonica. 
 
i 
 
 INTRODLTCTION. 
 
 In 1861, the Dilettanti Society being desirous of obtaining furtber information as to the state of the sites 
 of certain ancient temples, commissioned me to visit them, and report to them as to the desirability of escayation 
 at the following places : — 
 
 The Temple of Bacchus at Teos, which, though it had been visited by a former mission, had not been 
 thoroughly explored. 
 
 The Temple of Apollo Sminthous in the Troad, the remains of which had been discovered by Captain 
 Spratt.^ 
 
 The Temple of Minerva at Priene, and that of Apollo Branchida; at Miletus, which had been visited 
 by the Budrum Expedition. 
 
 During the journeys necessary for exploration, I visited the whole coast northward to the Troad from the 
 point that had been reached by Mr. Newton, and in this manner, from the Gulf of Mendelet to Cape Lectum, 
 on the north side of the Gulf of Adrymittium, completed a survey of the coasts of Caria, Ionia, and ^olia, 
 where we know the finest buildings erected by the Greek colonists formerly existed. 
 
 Upon the receipt of my report, the Dilettanti Society resolved to have the site of the Temple of 
 Bacchus at Teos thoroughly excavated. This was done by me in the spring of 1860, and the details obtained 
 enabled me to complete a restoration of this celebrated building, which I have reason to believe will eventually 
 be published. 
 
 In the present work illustrations of the finest examples of temples and other edifices measured by M. Tesier 
 will be found, accompanied by short descriptions taken from his writings and from those of other travellers 
 in Asia Minor, and preceded by an outline of the various excursions made by me for the survey of the coast. 
 This, it is hoped, may prove not uninstructive to the general reader, and may add some little to what is 
 already known of tho antiquities of this most interesting country. 
 
 The accompanying map shows the various routes followed, and also the principal excursions of the 
 Budrum Expedition. 
 
 ' See Transactions of the Royal Society of Literature, vol. iii. 
 
THE COASTS OF iEOLIA, lOI^Ii, & QMIL 
 
yEOLlA. 
 
 LEPT England for Marseilles, accompanied by my wifci, July 'Z'tth, 18G1. Having 
 ascertained fvom experience the desirability of baving a Europeati servant when 
 travelling in Asia Minor, and the difficulty of obtaining a suitable one at Smyrna, 
 I determined to go by way of Corfu, in the hope of obtaining the services of a 
 sapper who bad served in the Budrum expedition, and who was quartered there. 
 Accordingly, from Marseilles we went to Genoa, then across Italy to Aucona, and 
 from thence by an Austrian Lloyds' steamer for Corfu. The sapper was there; but upon 
 ap[)lication to bis commanding officer, I found that be could not be then spared, as be 
 was regimental iutcrjireter, but that bis term of service would expire in three months, when he promised 
 to join me at Smyrna, in case he should be required. From Corfu, our vessel proceeded to Syra, touching 
 at Zante, Oephalonia, and Cerigo, and we reached Smyrna August 25tli. As the weather was too hot for 
 excursions, we remained there to await the arrival of our heavy baggage, consisting of our tents, saddles, 
 &e., which bad been dispatched from England in the Affia Sofia. 
 
 Owing to increased strictness of the custom-bouse authorities, the trouble of clearing baggage is much 
 greater than formerly. The Turkish Government has lately imposed a duty of eight per cent, ad valorem, 
 on both exports and imports ; consequently, if the contents of the packages do not consist of merchandise 
 accompanied by an invoice, the inspectors, who are chiefly Armenians, fix the value according to their own 
 notions, which, it is needless to say, are frequently wide of the mark. In our case, however, thanks to 
 the kindness of our late Consul Mr. Blunt, matters were much faeilitated, and after two visits to the 
 custom-house in company with a cavass from the Consulate, our effects were passed without cliarge, beyond 
 the usual baksheesh, which has here become a regular toll in place of a gift. 
 
 Soon after my arrival, Mr. Blunt informed me that he bad received a dispatch from Sir Henry Buhver 
 I'equcsting him to take measures to secure a torso discovered by Captain Spratt at Elaca, iu the Gulf of 
 Sanderlik, for the British Museum. As in all probability a fortnight would elapse before the heat moderated 
 sufficiently for me to commence escm'sions by land, I agreed to undertake this for him, as it would enable 
 me to explore the coasts of the Gulf of Sanderlik by means of a caique. 
 
 Mr. Blunt procured me a useful companion in an old man, Spire by name, who had seiwed as pilot 
 on board a British ship of war engaged in surveying the coast. Spiro was a mnn of sixty years of age, 
 hearty, robust, experienced, and trustworthy, as I afterwards found during other expeditions in which be 
 accompanied us in the capacity of a travelling servant. 
 
 The caique hired for the voyage, which was to occupy about a week or ten days, was a new boat, 
 about twenty feet long. There is no cabin in these vessels, which arc built for lightness and speed, so 
 that at night we were obliged to moor our boat near the shore, ia order that a tent might be formed 
 with a sail on the after part of the boat for us to sleep in, the sailors sleeping on shore or on the fore part 
 outside the tent. Our crew consisted of three men, besides Spiro, all Greeks who had been engaged by 
 English ships of war as boatmen, or in some other capacity. 
 
 "We started August 31st, at 7 o'clock in the morning; but as there was no wind, we did not make 
 much progress, and by night had only reached a sandbank opposite two picturesque mountains, called the 
 Brothers, from two peaks resembling one another. We were here isolated from the mainland by a large 
 sheet of shallow water, where extensive fisheries are carried on for the supply of Smyrna. We obtained fresli 
 fish, wbieli our crew broiled upon the embers of a wood fire for dinner. 
 
 On the mainland opposite us was a bill, upon which, according to the Admiralty charts, stood the 
 small town of Lcuke. There were no ruins visible, as far as I could sec by the aid of a powerful telescope. 
 Unfortunately, tlie water was too shallow to enable me to explore the' site. Leuke was founded by a 
 
8 
 
 THE COASTS OF vEOIJA, lOSTA, AND CAEIA, 
 
 r<'rsiEiii g'cncrjil, Tnchos by namf!, wlio revolted against Artaxerxes, and retired to an island adjoining' 
 the coast of jEolia. 
 
 The next morning, as the wind was favourable, ive set sail at daybreak, and rounding tlu' cape on the 
 northern side of the Gulf of Smyrna, entered the Gulf of Sanderlik, formerly called that of Elaea. In the 
 afternoon we put into a small bay, on which stands a tchiftlik, or large farm, called Ali Agba. Tbe village 
 and adjoining land are the property of M. Baltazzi, a rich Smyrna uaereliant. As I was furnished with a 
 letter of introduction to the steward who managed the estate, we were hospitably received, and invited 
 to talic up our quarters on shore for the night. The steward was a Greek, who had accompanied 
 M. Baltazzi during an esenrsiop. in Europe, and he was consequently a man of greater information than 
 most of those in his position. After the dinner and the invariable coffee and pipes, we paid a visit to some 
 of the steward's relations, who resided in the village. 
 
 In tiie morning I went to see some fragments of a small Ionic building that formerly stood in the 
 plain between the village and the landing-place. These fragments consisted of a capital l'2(l feet in diameter 
 below the astragal, the base of a pilaster with enriched mouldings, and some other smaller mouldings, all 
 of elegant character. Tlicy had been dug up on the site of a Greek church, which doubtless had replaced 
 a small Ionic shrine of great beauty. Ali Agha is marked on Kieport's map as the site of Myrina ; but 
 there are no vestiges of foundations to justify his conclusion that this was the site of the town. 
 
 As the site of Cyme was not above an hour's ride from the village, I procured a horse and guide, and 
 rode thither. Passing over hilly ground to the south, I came to a second small bay. The city seems to 
 have occupied two low hUla facing the sea, about three- quarters of a mile in extent. Broken fragments of 
 marble and pottery, which afford an indubitable cine to the sites of towns, covered the groimd. There 
 were no walls to be seen above ground, nor were there any inscriptions to be found. A Doric capital and 
 a few mouldings were tbe only remains to show that a large city formerly stood here. 
 
 "We embarked on the afternoon of the same day, and having passed a headland a few miles from Ali 
 Agha, we put into a sandy cove beyond it. 
 
 Here were portions of Byzantine buildings near the shore, and also a pedestal bearing an inscription, 
 which, however, afforded no evidence as to the name of the town that evidently had occupied the site. A 
 poor farm-house, occupied by a negro and a Turk, both suffering from the effects of fever, was the only 
 habitation near. Erom them I obtained several coins picked up on the spot, and from the letters on them 
 there seems to be no doubt that this was the real site of Myrina, as they were almost all of that town ; 
 being >E 4, Head of an Amazon ; rev. A vase between M and Y . Indications of the former existence of 
 a town here were to be seen in the broken pottery, as on the site of Cyme. The fragments of pottery 
 covered tlie entire surface of a low hill at the bead of the cove. 
 
 One of my objects in visiting this gulf was the discovery of the site of the Temple of Apollo Gryninus, 
 the exact position of which had never been ascertained. Strabo informs us that it stood upon a small 
 peninsula,— almost an island. While skirting the shore at the head of a second bay, we hailed a shepherd 
 boy, the only human being to be seen, and inquired if there were eski biiut, old walls, in the neighbourhood. 
 He was at first afraid, and about to run away ; he feared probably for his flock, as, within the memory of 
 many, Greek pirates from the islands were in the habit of making descents njion the coast and carrying oil' 
 the flocks and crops of the inhabitants. However, upon being reassured, he pointed out what appeared to 
 be a low island with many trees and much brushwood on it. 
 
 We rowed to the spot, and upon landing fouud traces of a Byzantine enclosure, 2)robably a fortress. 
 Two architrave stones formed the gate piers; they were, however, of eoar,se rough stone, and could not have 
 formed parts of the temple, which we know was built of white marble. However, upon carefully searching 
 the ground beyond the fortress, I came upon the flute of a Doric column of white marble, which, from its 
 dimensions, must have belonged to a building of great size, and near it a fragment of similar marble, with 
 a Greek scroll of fine style sculptured on it. From the fact of the small peninsula corresponding so exactly 
 with Pliny's description, and from the circumstance of fragments of white marble (a material used only in 
 the principal temples) belonging to a large building being found here, I am inclined to believe that this was 
 the site of the Temple of Apollo Grynceus. 
 
 Excavations on the spot would no doubt lead to interesting discoveries. 
 
 We left Grynium after a visit of an hour or two, and with a favouring breeze reached the scala of 
 Kasikeui (ancient Elaea), situated at the head of the gulf, by nightfall, The land here is low and marshy, 
 but rises gradually at a distance of two or three miles from the shore, forming a mountainous range of no 
 great height. 
 
 As there was no accommodation to be obtained on shore, we slept on board, and early the next day 
 proceeded on horseback in search of the statue. We found it lying in a vineyard about two miles from the 
 scala. It was that of a colossal male figure witli largely -developed muscles, probably of Hercules. The 
 head, arms, and legs had disappeared, nor could we find any trace of them. They had been joined to the 
 body by cramps, as was frequently the ease in Greek colossal statues of the best period. The smooth joints 
 and cramp-holes remained. The chest was injured by the marks of balls, which showed that it had at one 
 time formed a target for the Tm-ks. After some delay, the owner of the vineyard made his appearance, and, 
 
^OLIA, 
 
 after considerable negotiatiorij the price was agreed upon, and ho gave me a written agreement to allow it 
 to be removed when sent for. Captain Spratt eventually carried off the figure, and it now stands under 
 the colonnade of the British Museum.^ There are no ruins of any temple from which this statue could have 
 been brought. A few fragments of architrave and other stones arc to be seen in the walls and at the 
 mouths of wells in the neighbourhood. I obtained here a coin of Elaea; /E 3, Head of Tallas with a 
 hehnet; rev. A grain of baidcy within a wreath of olive-leaves between E and A. 
 
 We were not loth to leave this swampy unhealthy spot the next day for Sandcrlik, the town from 
 which the gulf takes its name. It is a small place, but it possesses a castle, with a small garrison, and 
 has a governor with the title of nmdir. "We paid him a visit, and he permitted us to inspect the castle. 
 A Greek, who seemed to possess the best house in the town, called to see us and invited us to dinner. 
 There arc no remains of ancient Pitane, which stood here, except some walls under water on the south side 
 of the peninsula on which the town stands. 
 
 As the breeze was increasing in violence, and we feared a gale, it was thought advisable to sail across 
 the mouth of the gtdf before the gale came on. We did not reach the harbour of l''ougea the same evening, 
 but landed for the night on a sandy beach at the extreme point of the cape which is opposite Karabournon. 
 The next morning we sailed into the port of Fougcs, ancient rhocaea. 
 
 The modern town, which is a place much frequented by caiques engaged in the coasting trade, stands 
 in a sheltered situation at the foot of a range of mountains. It is surrounded l)y walls which appear to be 
 of the Byzantine period. I was taken to see two Roman pedestals standing in one of the streets, but could 
 hear of no other antiquities in the place, though I was infoi-med that the peasants in the neighbourhood of 
 the town frequently came upon old foundations when digging wells and reservoirs. 
 
 We left the same day, and as we were favoured by the imhai or west wind, — which blows up the Gulf 
 of Smyrna almost every day during the summer months,— we reached the town before niglit on 5th 
 September. 
 
 ' M. Texier heard of tlia existence of this statue from a professor 
 of Greek ill Paris aoine tliirty years ago. Tlie right shoulder of tlie 
 figure has heeu excellently restored. Mr. Newton has had a cast 
 from the ann and chest of a musmdar hoatman placed l>y the side 
 
 of the toreo, for the benefit of those who wish to comiiare tlie luitiqne 
 with nature. The close veseaihlance of the one to the other is some- 
 thing marvellous. 
 
10 
 
 TOWS OF MOLIL' 
 
 E L A E A. 
 
 ELAEA, the port and arsenal of Pergamus, was situated at a distance of twelve stadia to tlie south of the 
 mouth of the Caieus. Tills was an unfavourable situation, for all sea-ports near tlie mouths of rivers 
 are liable to be choked up with sand. When we visited these shores, their former condition was so ehangcd, 
 that, in order to reach the lagoon, which was formerly the port, wc had to proceed through a vast marsh. 
 The alluvial soil brought down by the Caieus extends for several miles into the sea. A bar of sand Gncumbers 
 the entrance of the river. The whole coast is absolutely a desert, without doubt on account of the pestilential 
 air which arises from its shores. 
 
 It is difficult to describe the aspect of ruin and desolation which this coast of ^olia presents. Judging 
 it impossible to approach by sea, we went to Pitane, and there we took horses, in order to reach the place 
 by land. A Turkish farm, where we found but two or three inhabitants, who did not pass the night there, 
 was the only dwelling in modern Elaea. Porests of xeeds and of willows serve as shelter to a multitude of 
 aquatic birds of various species. 
 
 Such is the present state of this town, which, was the depository of the wealth of Attains and the scene 
 of the desperate struggle of Mithridates. It was at Elaea that Scipio, having fallen ill when making war 
 against Antiochus, received from that king a great favour in the liberation of his young son, who had been 
 made prisoner while navigating the Sea of Euhcea, All memorial of these times has disappeared. Elaea is 
 called in the present day Touzla Kazleu (the salt-lake of the geese). 
 
 Some remains of walls are the only vestiges visible of the ancient town. "We discovered, however, in tlie 
 midst of the reeds, a block of grey marble, on which wc read this inscription : — " The Senate and the People 
 have honoured Titus Julius Quadratus, Proconsul of Crete and Cyrene, Ambassador of the Emperor in the 
 province of Cappadocia, Ambassador of the Emperor and Lieutenant-General of Lycia and of Pamphylia, 
 Ambassador in Asia for the second time, Ambassador in Pontus and Bithynia; Euphratus Marcellus, Epulon 
 (honours), the benefactor and constructor of the town." In the conviction that the Elaeans felt that the 
 name of their town would never perish, they neglected to inscribe it on this marble. This was the only 
 inscription that the Goose marsh afforded. 
 
 Kitche Keui, the nearest village, is abundantly provided with springs and fountains ; but the surrounding 
 moujitains are barren and sparsely populated. The inhabitants procure water by means of wells and of 
 cisterns. At a mile to the south of Kitehe Keui we pass a river called Kondoura Tchai, the bed of which 
 is about 160 yards in breadth. It has its source, doubtless, in the volcanic country of Lydia, for the pebbles 
 which roll in its course are of a volcanic nature. There are many aquatic tortoises in it. This current 
 of water is perhaps only the river Xanthus, at the mouth of which was situated the ancient Myrina. The 
 topography of the towns of jEolia is exactly determined by Strabo, as may be seen in the following 
 table :— 
 
 Prom Pitane to the mou 
 Elaea 
 ,, Grynium 
 
 Myrina 
 Cyme 
 Neontichos 
 Larissa 
 
 ith of the Caieus ... ... ... 30 stadia 
 
 12 „ 
 
 30 
 40 
 ■10 
 30 
 70 
 
 ' Abriiigeil from Texieu's Asie-mineure. 
 
GEYNIUM—MVRINA— CYME. 
 
 GRYN lUM. 
 
 The town of Grynium, or Grynia, was at first founded on an islsind, wliich aftei'w.irds became united 
 to tlie continent. It was celebrated for a temple to Apollo, built of white marble, whicb enjoyed the 
 privilege of having an oracle, as did most of the sanctuaries of this god. The Temple of Apollo Grynajus 
 was celebrated throughout all the Greek world. Reference is made to it by Yirgil in two different passages. 
 The town of Gryuium belonged to the inhabitants of Myrina. In the time of Pliny it was abeady a desert. 
 Xenophon informs us that the king of Persia, Artaxerxes, made a present of these two towns to the 
 Erythrrean Gongylus, who had been banished from his country for having favoured the interests of the 
 king of Persia. Gongylus was then master of Pergamus. Grynium was taken by Parmenio, and from that 
 time escaped the domination of the Persians, 
 
 The ruins of this town have completely disappeared from the surface of the ground ; hut some years ago 
 some Greeks from Temnos, who were about to build a church, dug on the foundations of the temple, and 
 found some great blocks of white marble, which were used in tlic new building. 
 
 The site of Grynium is now waste land) and without name. It is situated on the direct route from 
 Pergamus to Smyrna. The distances are given in the preceding table. If we may rely upon a note inserted 
 in the French translation of Strabo, the ruins of the temple were visible at the commencement of the last 
 century. An inscription copied from the door is thus rendered: — "To ApoUo Fatidieus, Philreterus, son of 
 Attains." This agrees with the facts stated in Herodotus, that the ancient temples of Asia were burnt by 
 Xerxes. "We find there but very few temples anterior to the time of Alexander. The Temple of Assos is 
 an exception, because that town always remained in the possession of the Persians. 
 
 M Y R I N A. 
 
 The maritime town Myrina had a port and an arsenal, of which the vestiges have disappeared under 
 the alluvial soil. This town, according to Mela, was founded by Myrinus, the chief of the colony who 
 arrived on this coast. Strabo, more attached to the Homeric traditions, pretends that it was founded by the 
 Amazon Myrina, who was buried in the plains of Troy. It took the name of Sebastopolis, without doubt 
 because it was rebuilt by the liberality of Tiberius, after the great earthquake which ravaged twelve towns 
 of Asia, and principally those of JEolia,. It has been remarked that this name has not been perpetuated on 
 any coin. Not far from Myrina there is another anchorage called Portns Arcbivorum, near which is an altar 
 of twelve gods. 
 
 Peutinger's tabic indicates twelve miles as the distance between these two towns, which agrees with the 
 distance given by Strabo. 
 
 CYME. 
 
 According to Strabo and Mela, tlie name of Cyme was given to the town by an Amazon, as was said 
 to be the case witli Ephesus, Myrina, and Smyrna. Cyme was founded twenty years after the iEolians were 
 established at Lesbos, and eighteen years before Smyrna. 
 
 The Lydian Pactyas, being pursued by the satrap Mazares after the taking of Sardis, sought refuge at 
 Cyme. Mazares demanded that the fugitive should be given up to him; but, after having consulted the 
 oracle of Branchidrc, the inhabitants refused to give up their guest, and afforded him facilities to cross over 
 to Mytilene, and thence to Chios. In the latter island he was seized by the Persians, being dragged from 
 the asylum of the Temple of Minerva Polias. 
 
 In the time of Darius, Cyme was governed by satraps. It was in its harbour that the remains of 
 Xerxes' fleet took refuge after the battle of Salamis. After passing under the dominion of the kings of Syria 
 and those of Pergamus, it submitted to the Roiuau government, and at the division of provinces made by 
 Diocletian it was comprehended in that of which Ephesus was the metropolis. Temples, a gymnasium, 
 and porticos are mentioned in the inscriptions found upon the site, but no traces of this buildin" are now 
 to be seen. 
 
 In the 5th century it had the rank and title of an episcopal town. Maximus, its bishop, assisted at 
 tlie Council of Ephesus. The vicinity of Pbocaea Nuova, built by the Genoese, was as fatal to Cyme as the 
 sand which blocked up its port. Still we know tliat Cyme enjoyed a certain degree of commercial prosperity 
 
12 
 
 THE COASTS OF ,^OLTA, IONIA, AND OAP.IA. 
 
 until the 15th century. It fell into the hands of Djouncid, a rebel emir, who took possession of the greater 
 part of ^olia, and waged war against Mahomet I. The sultau laid siege to the town, took its citadel by 
 assault, and massacred the garrison, but spared the inhabitants, who were dispersed amongst the neigh- 
 bouring towns. 
 
 From this period Cyme ceased to exist; its public buildings fell into ruius, and it became a quarry 
 from which stones were procured for the erection of villages on the shores of the gulf. In the present 
 day, there is hardly one stone upon another remaiuing to show where this tlourishing city formerly stood. 
 
 The chief towns of the interior were Aegae, Temuos, Larissa, and Neontichos. The sites of these have 
 not been determined with any degree of certainty. 
 
TEOS. 
 
 Y tlic 17th oi' September the lieat had sidficicntly moderated to enable mc to undertake 
 excursions by land. Of the sites I liad undertaken to explore, Teos being the nearest to 
 Snayrua, I made arrangements to go there, and engaged the services of Spiro for the trip, 
 The ruins of Teos are situated near the town of Sighajik, which is a long day's ride from 
 Smyrna, on the south side of the peninsula that forms the northern boundary of the 
 Gulf of Smyrna. On account of the great length of this tongue of land, — some fifty or 
 sixty miles, — the sea passage occupies three days with the most favourable wind. I 
 therefore determined to proceed by caique to the narrowest part of the isthmus, and then 
 to cross on horseback by way of the town of Vouvlah. This plan gaye me an opportunity of seeing the 
 site of Clazomona?, one of the principal towns of Ionia, which stood upon an island adjoiuing the place 
 where wo were to land. 
 
 We started on the evening of the 17th, — for the mbat blows up the gulf during the summer months, 
 but dies away towards night ; therefore the evening is the best time for setting sail. We slept under a tent 
 formed of sails in the caique, and at daybreak foimd ourselves at Vourlah Scala. A neighbouring fountain 
 furnished us with the means of ablution, and during the time that elapsed before horses could bo procured from 
 Vourlah, which was three miles distant, I searched' the neighbourhood for ruins, but found nothing but a 
 few stones, evidently brought from the opposite island, upon which formerly stood Clazomenfe. In the 
 present day there are not even the foundations of its buildings remaining. As the site is so easily accessible, 
 every stone has been removed for the purpose of being used in the construction of houses at Smyrna and 
 elsewhere. The causeway mentioned by Strabo is visible, though partly submerged. The country on the 
 mainland opposite the island is gently undulating, and forms the lowest part of the peninsula of ICarabournou, 
 which in other parts is occupied by high mountains. 
 
 Horses having arrived, we aiTanged our baggage, and proceeded through well-cultivated fields and vine- 
 yards to the town of Vourlah. This town, situated partly on a hill, is inhabited chiefly by Greeks. It is a 
 flourishing place, its prosperity being chiefly derived from the eulture of the vine for raisins, and from the 
 production of silk. There is a school here, established by American missionaries. We halted for a frugal 
 breakfast, and then proceeded through a flat eultivated country for two hours. Wc soon came to low bills 
 covered with brushwood, and after three hours' journey over these, arrived in sight of the Bay of Sighajik. 
 Looking down from the summit of a rocky hill, wc saw the towu lying at the head of a small bay. Behind 
 the town, which was surrounded by high walls, stretched an extensive plain well stocked with trees. On the 
 opposite side of the bay was a range of low hills, and at its mouth a small island, which I at onee concluded 
 would be the best place for our camping-ground, as the whole coast would be thence accessible by boat, 
 and we should be free from molestation. 
 
 We reached the gates of the town by three o'clock. Upon inquiry for the governor, who was a yuzbasld, 
 or captain, wc found him encamped outside the walls near the sea. Upon explaining the object of my journey, 
 he begged us to pitch our tent near liis own for protection, as he said that there were many fena adaniler 
 (bad men) about, and that lie would not be responsible for our safety if we did not. We declined, for if 
 we bad followed his advice, we should have been subjected to the annoyance of visitors at all hours of the 
 day, and told him that it was our intention to encamp on the island, requesting him to furnish us with 
 a boat and two guards. A bargain was soon concluded, and by sunset our tent was pitched, and we were 
 glad to be able to repose free from the molestation of any plagues more troublesome than earwigs, which 
 were very numerous. The island was a rock rising out of the sea, covered with long grass and bushes. 
 It was above half a mile in length by aboiit 300 yards in width, and was situated about half a mile 
 from shore. 
 
 The next morning we vowed to the southern side of the peninsula, rounding a rocky point, and landing 
 
 K 
 
u 
 
 THR OOASTfi OV .'EULIA, lONTA, AND (iAlUA. 
 
 at the ancient mole of Teos. The foundations of the city ivalls arc visible near this point. The whole site 
 is covered mth cornfields and gardens. We soon came upon the rnins of au Ionic temple, which proved to he 
 that of Bacchns, and also upon some remains of a theatre. The ruins of the city occupied an isthmus about 
 two miles and a half broad) connecting a rocky peninsula of no great extent with the mainland. The 
 ground upon which the city stood is not perfectly lovelj but slopes towards the cast. The city walls can 
 be traced for the greater part of their extent. They are between three and four miles in circuit, built of 
 large blocks of isodomoiis masonry put together without cement. The position of the gates could not be 
 ascertained. Tlierc were three or four mounds of ruins upon the site. The first we reached was in the middle 
 of a cornfield. It was much overgrown with brushwood, and the stones collected from the field had been 
 thrown upon the architectural members, so that but few of them were to be seen. The foundations of the 
 cella of the temple were visible. The interior dimensions were 31-15 feet by 19-85 feet. The wall was 
 3'8 feet thick. The positions of the columns were not to be ascertained without excavation. The order 
 had been Corinthian, of Greek character. Several fragments of the architrave stones were found, but no 
 frieze. The architrave had an ovolo moulding on the top, and the edge of each fascia was ornamented with 
 an enriched bead. In an adjoining field were some of the lower drums of coupled columns, marking 
 apparently the site of an agora. Of the theatre the vomitories only remained ; the seats had all been 
 removed, and the remains of the proscenium were found in an adjoining field. 
 
 Outside the town walls, near the ruins just described, which were situated to the south-east, there were 
 the remains of a small Roman temple, which had been prostyle and tetrastyle. The columns were monolithic, 
 and the frieze convex. The cornice, frieze, and architrave were in one block of stone. These several facts 
 show that it was late and -poav in style, so that the entire demolition of its ruins, which was effected 
 between the time of my first and second visit to Sighajik — within a period of six months — was fortunately not 
 so much to be regretted as would have been the case had it been a flue monument of Greek art. North of 
 this ruin there extended a large tract of marshy ground, on which could be traced the Via Sacra by the lines 
 formed by the lids and other portions of sarcophagi. None of these tombs remained entire. 
 
 In the middle of the marsh, near the bank of a small stream that runs into the harbour, were the ruins 
 of a square building, apparently a mausoleum. The core of the building was about forty feet square. Some 
 pieces of a rich frieze of the Corinthian order were found, but no traces of either columns or pilasters were 
 seen. The tomb stood within a peribolus formed by pilasters of grey marble, with engaged columns at the 
 sides. Pifteen of these were standing in the marsh to the height of four or five feet. The core of the 
 building was of rag; the casing had been of white marble. The scroll ornaments of the frieze had been 
 delicately carved ; but the too manifest use of the drill showed that it was of late date. North of the walls 
 of the town were remains of other tonibs. 
 
 I repeatedly visited the ruins of the Temple of Bacchus for the purpose of making sketches for a report 
 to the Dilettanti Society, I found that the bases of two columns and portions of the pavement were visible 
 at one corner of the heap ; and as the mouldings of these were of fine character, there was good promise of 
 important results if excavations were made here. The temple had been built of a bluish marble obtained 
 from a quarry about three miles from the site. We visited the quarry, and found in its vicinity several 
 immense blocks of similar marble cut into curious ledges. Mr. Hamilton gives a representation of one of 
 them.' Upon them were various rude inscriptions, such as " Loco III." 
 
 Sighajik is a dirty town of about 3,000 inhabitants. The walls are built of blocks of marble from Teos, 
 amongst which may be seen here and there mouldings and other architectural members. It has one mosque, 
 and a bath from which an inscription was taken away by Lord DufTci-in, after a show of opposition on the 
 part of the townspeople, especially of the female part of the couimunity. Almost every inhabitant possesses 
 a field or garden in the vicinity of the town; so that, on the whole, the people are in a thriving condition. 
 As many of them are Turks who were expelled from the Morea, they commonly speak Greek, and associate 
 with the ghaioiir to a greater extent than is generally the case in the Turkish provinces. One day we rode 
 to Sevil-Hissar, a large town four miles from Sighajik. I saw there many fragments of inscriptions, capitals, 
 and sculpture built into the walls of the houses. All these must have been brought from Teos, as there 
 was no other ancient city in the neighbourhood. "We returned to Smyrna by land on October 1st. 
 
 ' See Hamilttm, Rtmarclies in Asia Minor, vol, ii, i>. Id. 
 
TE08. 
 
 AN HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF TEGS. (Abridged iVoiu Texier's Asie-Mineure.) 
 
 Teos was a Carian towu, whieli was in existence before the arrival of the first Hellenic colonists. Its 
 inliabitants, more liospitablc than their compatriots, received and entertained tbc Mynians of Orchomenoa, 
 who landed at their town under the leadership of Athamas. This pacific conduct soon became known in 
 Greece, and attracted the Ionian colonists, who, led by Apsecns, established themselves in the Teian territory. 
 ■ This second migration was followed by that of a body of Athenians and Boaotians. The Carian popnlation 
 was soon intermingled with and absorbed by the European race, and Teos became a Greek town holding an 
 important rank in the Ionian confederation. 
 
 Teos was one of the first towns attacked by the Persians when they waged war against the Ionian 
 settlements. The Teians followed the example of the inhabitants of Phocaea, and when they were reduced 
 to the last extremity they took to their ships and quitted the country. They however returned in after- 
 times, and when Alexander had expelled the Persians, Teos became one of the most prosperous cities in 
 the country. The Teians cultivated the fine arts and brought them to great perfection. 
 
 The worship of Bacchus was especially cultivated by the Teians, and the Dionysiac festivals celebrated 
 here became so renowned that actors from all parts of Asia were attracted to them. These actors settled 
 in the town and established a corporation of contractors for public entertainments, who sent troops of actors 
 to all parts of the ancient world, even to Gaul. At Vienne, in Daupbiny, there is an inscription which 
 reads as follows: — "The actors of Asia, and all those belonging to the same corporation, have raised this 
 monument of their existence." 
 
 After the disasters of Sicily, the Teians strove to escape from the yoke of the Athenians, taking 
 part with the Peloponnesians. The Athenians had built at Teos a long wall, which separated the town 
 from the rest of the continent. This the inhabitants destroyed. "When, however, the Athenians recovered 
 possession of the Asiatic cities, they rebuilt all the walls, and those which exist are their work. 
 
 During the war with Antiochns, the Teians were the means of saving the Boman fleet from destruction. 
 It had entered the harbour behind the town (the port of Sighojik) to provision. Meanwhile Polixenidas, 
 the admiral of the royal fleet, set sail from Colophon, intending to attack it by land and by sea, as the 
 entrance of the port was so narrow that only one ship could go out at a time. But tbc Teians, perceiving 
 the design of the admiral, forewarned the Eomans and invited them into the other harbour, which was 
 more commodious. Here they took in provision more easily, and when the enemy's fleet came in sight, 
 they rowed out and escaped. 
 
 After the defeat of Antiochus, Teos passed into the power of the kings of Pergamus, and became part 
 of the province of Asia. When Christianity spread through the country, Teos was amongst the first towns 
 which were converted. In the time of St. Polyearp of Smyrna, Daphnns was the first bishop of Teos. 
 
 Teos was situated upon the southern coast of the Erytlirtuan peninsula, in the narrowest part, between 
 the Gulf of Smyrna and the Samian sea. The town itself was built upon an isthmus, boimded by the Bay 
 of Sighajik on the west, and on the other side by the Gulf of Teos. The port of Sighajik is the ancient 
 poHus Gerccsticm. It is one of the safest harbours on the coast, but the entrance is difficult. 
 
 The modern town of Sighajik stands on the east side of the bay, and upon the isthmus upon which 
 Teos stood. The materials furnished by the ancient city have been employed in the construction of the 
 modern town. It is surroimded by walls, which contain several inscriptions built into them. 
 
 The site of Teos, which was thirty stadia from Port GerKstius, is separated from the plain near Sighajik 
 by rising ground. 
 
 The ruins of the Temple of Bacchus form an immense mass. It is easy to recognize the principal 
 architectural members of the building. The architrave and cornice stones remain. The cymatium is decorated 
 with the honeysuckle ornament and lions' heads. The capitals, wliicli are Ionic, are simple, yet of fine style. 
 
 The temple, like most of those of Asia, stood in an enclosure surrounded by columns. The foundations 
 of these colonnades are visible above ground; so that it would not require mucli labour to discover the 
 arrangement of this beautiful classical edifice. 
 
 The building second in point of interest is the Theatre, which is situate upon a neighbouring hill, and 
 which faces the south, contrary to the prescriptions of Titruvius. Its proscenium is entii-ely destroyed, and 
 the seats for the most part removed. 
 
 There is another etlifice situated near the centre of the isthmus, and about a mile from the southern 
 port. It was a small building, standing upon a pyramidal base, and which bad been richly ornamented, 
 to judge from the delicacy of the sculptured cornices which lie around. This monument was surrounded 
 by a colonnade of pilasters of grey marble, with half-columns attached on the opposite sides : the north 
 side of this enclosure was paces, and the west side 100. 
 
 The walls of the town arc constructed of large blocks of ashlar, put together without cement. 
 
16 
 
 THE COASTS OF ^OLTA, lONTA, AND CARTA, 
 
 The south port is now bloc]^e(l up anrl converted into a marsh. The remains of its mok^ still cxistj hut 
 there are no sig'ns of a maritime arsonal. In a valley, whence springs a rivulet tliat runs into the southern 
 port, there are some large blocks of marble, the destination of which cannot be divined. The largest 
 measures about three yards, the smallest about two yards, each way. These immense ciTbcs are cut into 
 prismatic forms, like small staircases and tablets ; they can only be compared to enormous crystals of 
 sulphate of soda. They almost all bear unintelligible Latin inscriptions, amongst which may be read LOCO 
 IIII. No one has yet been able to explain the purpose for which these blocks were intended. 
 
 In the neighbourliood, and not far from Sevri-Hissar, are the quarries which furnished the marble of Tcos. 
 It is grey and crystallized, belonging to the limestone formation of the peninsula of Erythrffi. This peninsula 
 is mountainous and uncultivated. Many villages inhabited by shepherds exist in its gorges, which were formerly 
 the resort of pirates called Coi-yceans, from IMount Corycus, the principal mountain, ■ 
 
1? 
 
 THE TROAD, ASSOS, & PERGAMUS. 
 
 OON after our return from Sigliajik I made preparations for an excursion to the Troad, 
 for the purpose of inspecting the remains of the Temple of Apollo Sminthcus, which 
 were discovered hy Captain Spratt. Finding that tlie Austrian Xloyda' vessels stopped 
 under steam at Cape Baba, — the ancient Lectum, which forms the northern boundary of the 
 Gulf of Adrymittium, — and that the ruins of t!ie temple were not many miles from the cape, I 
 left Smyrnaj for Cape Baba, on 12th October by one of those steamers. Old Spiro not 
 being well enough for this jom-neyj I procured the services of a one-eyed Ionian whom we 
 had eneountered at Syra on our voyage out — Georgio by name. His first exploit was to 
 lose one of the tents we took with us when we left the vessel, before daybreak on. the 13tb. On the 
 whole he served me faithfully, but was a little addicted to grumbling and raki. We could always find out 
 when he had imbibed too much raki ; for on such occasions he was particularly sensitive about his sightless 
 orb, which he endeavoured to conceal by means of his long black locks of hair. 
 
 Before reaching Baba we touched at Mytilenc ; but as this was at midnight, we, of course, could see 
 nothing of the town. Upon landing, we went shivering into a wretched cafe, and remained there until we 
 could arrange about the mode of conveyance to Kulaklee. At last we determined to go by boat to the 
 point nearest the village, aud to scud on for horses. *We rowed along the shore, which is bold and 
 rocky, for some six miles, and then landed in a sandy cove. As Kulaklee was not far off, we left Georgio 
 to follow with the baggage, and walked to the village, which is situated on a hill at the end of a little 
 valley, opening into the large plain of Toozla, at a distance of about a mile and a half from Kulaklee. The 
 ruins were situated at the bottom of the valley, where the inhabitants had their gardens. Ilere we resolved to 
 pitch the tent, for the sake of privacy and quiet, although the natives, as usual, told us that there were 
 many robbers about. 
 
 We spent three or four days here examining the ruins, which consist of those of the temple and of a 
 small Roman, building near it. 
 
 The whole site of the temple ia now occupied by small gardens, a few columns lying in one, some bases 
 in another, and foundations of walls in another. This made the exploration difficult, as we had in every 
 case to trespass upon, the property of the inhabitants. In one of the gardens — that of the mollah — I found 
 a base apparently in the position, it formerly occupied, and several drums of columns. The mouldings of 
 the base were very peculiar, consisting of two scotias divided by beads between an upper and lower torus. 
 The whole of the base was of oue stone to the top of the apophyge. Built into a wah. of an adjoining 
 garden was a piece of an Ionic capital of unusual character, as the hollow of the cushion was filled with 
 a scroll ornament of elegant form. I subsequently found another capital in the valley of Toozla, two miles 
 from the Temple, the ornament of which was more perfect. The lower diameter of the column was 3'37 
 feet. Near the column was a portion of Hellenic wall, which appeared to be part of the snbstrncture of the 
 temple. A piece of the cymatium, with a beautiful honeysuckle ornament on it, was built into one of the 
 garden walls, and also a piece of frieze with sculpture on it representing a battle of Amazons. 
 
 About two hundred yards west of the drums of columns stood a mass of Hellenic ruins about 25 feet 
 high : this probably had formed part of the propylaja. Near it was a piece of small frieze, with sciUpture 
 of a tripod and laurel-leaves between two griffins; but there was no trace of columns or pilasters near. 
 The Boman ruin consists of an arch of brickwork with architectural decorations. Here and there the rock 
 cropped up through the soil ; and apparently the temple had been built upon it. I found several inscriptions 
 in the walls of bouses in the village, which prove indisputably that the temple was that of the Sminthian 
 Apollo. 
 
 On the ISth wo started for Bcahrahm, the site of Assos. Ascending the bills to the east, we rode an 
 hour through a wild upland country covered with bushes. Wc then passed through a village, and after 
 
18 
 
 THE COASTS OF .'KOUA, tONIA, AND TAIilA, 
 
 anothei" hour's journey came to a steep descent, from whicli we looked over an extensive plateau bordering the 
 Gulf of Adrymittiura. Near the aca, about two miles from us, rose a precipitous isolated rock, upon which 
 stood the Acropolis of Assos. At its hase lay the village of Bealirahm : the walls of Assos were 
 distinctly visible joining the rock of the Acropolis and running down towards the sea. The plateau was 
 about four hundred feet above the level of the sea, and was bounded on the north by low bills covered with 
 trees, on the south by precipices on the seashore. It was chiefly grass land, affording pasturage to numei-ous 
 Ibrks of gofits. Tlie ishiiid of Mytilcnc appeared to be L^uite close, though the strait is four or five miles 
 broad at tliis point. Wo could, with the aid of a ghiss, distinguish villages and detached bouses scattered 
 over the sides of the mountains which form the northern part of the island. At the foot of this mountain 
 was situated the town of Molivo, which wo were destined before long to visit much against our will. The 
 weather was cloudy, so the deep shadow thrown upon the opposite mountains and the rocks of Assoa, which 
 are of a dark reddish tint, together with the leaden-coloured sea, combined to give the landscape a gloomy 
 aspect, which is indelibly impressed upon my memory. 
 
 ASSOS. 
 
 The city of Assos is situated on the northern shore of the Gulf of Adrymittium, about twenty miles 
 from Cape Lectum, called by the Turks Baba. The whole of this coast is high land, ranging to a height of 
 five or six hundred feet, and descending abruptly to the seashore. In the neighbourhood of Assos it is 
 precipitous. The city was built upon a rocky ledge on the seaside, on a level with the high land, and 
 intervening between the edge of the precipice and a higher rocky hill, upon the summit of which stood 
 the Acropolis. 
 
 The effect of the ruins, whether seen from the sea or land side, is very remarkable ; for the walls 
 being of the dark red ferruginous stone of which the cliifs consist, have a sombre and gloomy character. 
 Approaching it by land from Capo Baba, the first view is obtained when descending a hill at above an 
 hour's distance from the town. The jagged line of the walls of the city and the towers of the Acropolis, 
 indented against a clear sky, have an effect of sublimity seldom elsewhere seen. 
 
 Assos affords more than any other place in Asia Minor the type of an ancient Greek city, as it 
 has never been built upon, except partially in Byzantine times, and therefore it has preserved many of its 
 original features. Its walls and their gates are almost entire; its Sacred Way, with tombs on either side, 
 can be traced for a considerable distance. 
 
 The Acropolis, with traces of its temple, the theatre, the agora, and numerous other public buildings, 
 remain to attest its former grandeur. The architecture and sculpture of its temple show it to have been 
 one of the earliest of any regular order existing in Asia Minor. 
 
 A street of tombs commences at a distance of several hundred yards from the city walls on the west side, 
 and leads in almost straight line to the principal gateway. On either side at intervals are immense sori of 
 red stone of the neighbourhood. It was from this stone that all tombs of this description and form derived 
 their name, for it was said to have had the property of consuming bodies, with the exception of the teeth, in the 
 period of forty days: hence the name sarcophodus. Some of the sori are of very large dimensions; one of 
 them measured 12 feet long by 5 feet high. It bad a pedimental cover with acroteria not carved, a projecting 
 cornice with dentils, and it stood upon two or three steps. Most of the covers had been removed for the piii-pose 
 of pillaging the tombs ; but in this case the cover seemed to have been too heavy for the searcher, who effected 
 an entrance by breaking a small hole in the side. 
 
 The walls of the city can be traced for almost their entire circuit; they are in excellent preservation, 
 of good Greek work, not having been altered in later times. They are built of large blocks of red stone 
 laid without mortar or cramps, the joints fl.lleted, the rest of the stone left rough and bossy. On account 
 of the rapid fall of the ground, the walls have in places slipped down. They are partly Cyclopean and 
 partly isodoraous, about 10 feet 6 inches thick, and biult hollow, with bond-stones at intervals. The 
 principal gateway is flanked by two square towers : this was the usual mode of protecting the entrance 
 amongst the Greeks. Sometimes the flanking towers were circular, sometimes square, as at Assos. In Asia 
 Minor there are few fortified towns with walls coeval with those of Assos, but in Greece there arc some 
 remains of ancient cities of early date. At Phigaleia the gates arc all placed in re-entering angles flanked 
 by towers. 
 
 The gateway is of large dimensions ; the imposts are constructed with two upright stones with a bond- 
 stone between them; the lintel is formed by two large stones placed side by side, relieved by an arch on 
 
THE TEOAD, ASSOS, AND PE"RGAMUS. 
 
 each sitle : that on the exterior is pointed, that on the interior semicircular; yet they are hoth hiiilt on the 
 horizontal principle. No douht these arches arc of the greatest antiquity, as their construction seems to 
 show that at the time they were huilt the Greeks were not acquainted with the arch formed by voussoirs. 
 
 There was another gateway in the north-west corner, which was protected by a semicircular tower built 
 of large blocks : this work belongs to a portion of the wall not so old as the rest, if we may judge from 
 the semicircular arch with voussoirs over the doorway. 
 
 In the older part, which runs up from the principal gateway to the Acropolis, dividing the city into 
 two parts, is a postern which is interesting as presenting an arch with straight sides and a flat top, also 
 formed on the horizontal principle. The arch is four courses in height, and is covered with a series of flat 
 stones. The doorway itself is 9 feet 6 inches wide, and has a flat lintel two feet deep. 
 
 The walls have been continued round the Acropolis, but the towers now existing were erected in Roman 
 or Byzantine times. On the sea side they have almost entirely disappeared, but on the east side they can 
 be clearly traced. 
 
 Near the centre of the city is a large theatre, the seats of which are still in situ, hut the proscenium is 
 in ruins. Near it is a terrace, wliich seems to have been occupied hy the Agora and a small temple in 
 the vicinity. Tiie whole space within the walls is covered with heaps of ruins of houses, temples, and 
 tomhs. It is remarkable that in many cases the door-posts remain, though the walls have fallen : the 
 whole is of the local ferruginous stone. I could not find a fragment of marble in any part of the city. 
 
 The architecture of the temple will he described in the Explanation of the Plates. 
 
 After having thoroughly explored the ruins, on October 21st I determined to proceed by sea to Cape 
 Baha, and to touch at Sirigli — where I expected to find the ruins of a Greek town — on the way. The 
 wind had been blowing from the north with great violence for some days; but the owner of the caique we 
 hired assured us that hy keeping under shelter of the high land we should run no risk. However, we had 
 not left the harbour many minutes before the wind blew with increased violence; our frail vessel could, not 
 make head against the gale ; so we were obliged to let her run before the wind, and were thus carried out 
 to sea. I'ortunately the wind took us in the direction of a point of the island of Mytilenc, whci-e the 
 harbour of Molivo was situated ; so, after a few hours of anxiety, we reached smooth water, greatly to the 
 satisfaction of my wife, who had courageously volunteered to accompany me on this, as on my other excur- 
 sions. There had been some cause for alarm, as the tackle of the caique was not of the best quality, and 
 at times our safety depended upon the strength of a single rope. I had made many voyages by caique 
 formerly, and had confidence in the sailorship of the Turks, who manage their small vessels admirably, but 
 not much in the quality of their tackle, which consists of rope of an inferior quality, knotted in many 
 places, and often rotten : their sails, too, are generally ragged and patched. 
 
 The town of Molivo is most picturesquely situated on the west side of a high rocky hill, upon the top 
 of which stands a castle, of Turkish times. The highest range of mountains in the island rises at the 
 distance of five or six miles, and the intervening plain is covered with vineyards and very fruitful gardens. 
 In one of these we pitched our tent, preferring the comparative quiet and retirement consequent upon that 
 plan to the annoyance we should have experienced from the visits, both of human beings and insects, bad 
 we taken up our quarters in a house in the town. 
 
 The weather continued so boisterous that we were unable to prosecute our voyage for several days. 
 We occupied our time in visiting the castle and various villages in the neighbourhood of Molivo. There 
 are no traces of ancient Methymna, which was situated here, except a few masses of Byzantine brickwork, 
 and the usual fragments of broken marble and pottery, which strewed the ground between the harbour and 
 the modern town. The inhabitants are chiefly Greeks, who seem to live on good terms with the few Turks 
 — chiefly officials — who reside amongst them. 
 
 We rode one day to the Greek village of Petra, so called from a rock standing in the midst of the 
 houses, upon the top of which are perched a small church and a convent, occupied at the time of our visit 
 by a solitary nun. 
 
 Petra lies in a bay about sis miles S.W. of Molivo, aud is pictui'esqucly situated between mountains. 
 We rode into the interior, five miles beyond Petra, in order to inspect the remains of a Byzantine fortress, 
 which we found upon the summit of a hill, guarding the pass into the interior of the island. The ruins 
 were unimportant. Prom the summit of the hill w-e bad a most extensive view over the rich valleys, 
 covered w-ith olive-trees, that border the inland gulf, Porto Calloni. 
 
 When the gale had abated, we proceeded by boat to Skammia, intending to travel hy land thence to 
 the principal town in the island. We pitched our tent near the scala, and ascended a high mountain, upon 
 which the village was situated. It is probably the highest village in the whole island. The inhabitants 
 were all Greeks, ruddy and healthy-looking. They were apparently a flourishing community, as they had 
 lately erected a very showy church, ■\\hich was in course of being decorated by a wandering artist from 
 Mount Athos. The head man of the village, who occupied a neat house near the church, showed us much 
 hospitality. We returned to our lent for the night. 
 
 The next morning I engaged horses for Kliu, with the intention of proceeding to the chief town of Mytilene. 
 
THE CUASTS OV .+:OL!A, JONIA, AND CARIA. 
 
 Our road lay over mountains covered with olive-trees. Oa reaeliing Kliu, we found great difficulty in. 
 obtaining a relay of horses, so I changed the route, and detcriniucd to cross the strait to Aivalij an impor- 
 tant Greek town at the southern point of the shore of the Gulf of Adrymittium, and to proceed thence to 
 Pergamus, instead of crossing at Mytilene. We pitched our tent on the shore, amidst an eueampment of 
 fishermen, and hired a caique for the crossing. Although the strait is not more than ten or twelve miles, 
 wc were the whole day crossing, as we were becalmed half an hour after leaving port. The sun set before 
 we reached the entrance to the Bay of Aivali ; conscqucutly we found the passage closed by a wicker- 
 work barrier, which is drawn across the narrow channel every night. We had to sleep on board the 
 caique in an impromptu tent made with the sails. We found oysters very plentiful here, and of 
 good quality; so we were glad to make our supper of them, as our day's provision had run low. The 
 next morning we entered the land-locked harbour, in which there are several islands. Were a deep entrance- 
 channel formed, and the harbour generally improved by dredging, this might be made the finest harbour on 
 the coast, as it is large enough to contain several fleets. lu course of time it would bid fair to rival Smyrna, 
 as the sand brought dowu by the river Hcrmus is slowly but surely closing up the channel in the gulf on 
 which that city stands, rendering the naviga.tion very dangerous. I have seen vessels aground on the point 
 opposite the Kiilch situated on the coast, five miles from Smyrna, in consequence of the circuit they made to 
 avoid the sandbanks on tlie ojjposite shore. 
 
 The inhabitants of Aivali are exclusively Greeks. We were hospitably received by the British Vice- 
 Consul, Siguor Petro Mattaro, who kindly invited us to take up our quartei-s with him during om- stay. 
 The following day he accompanied us to the island of Musconisi, where I found the foundations of a temple, 
 most probably tliat of Venus mentioned by Strabo as existing there. A Greek church had been built upon the 
 lower courses, which were of marble. The shores of the Bay of Aivali slope gently to the water : there arc 
 no mountains in the immediate vicinity of the town. During the Greek revolution there was a terrible 
 massacre of the Christian inhabitants by the Turks. Many lives were then saved through the intrepidity 
 of the then Vice-Consul, the father of our friend Mattaro : he induced the principal inhabitants to take 
 refuge on one of the islands in the bay, where they remained until the enemy had withdrawn. 
 
 On 12tli November we engaged horses for Pergamus, two days' journey. Our road ran parallel with 
 the shore, at the distance of about three miles from the sea. The country was perfectly flat, and abounded 
 with olive-trees and cornfields. After a ride of tin-ee hours, wo halted for dinner at a Turkish village, near 
 ancient Attalia, of which city there are no traces. In the evening we reached a large tchiftlih near the sea, 
 surrounded by marshes : here we were obliged to encamp. The night was so cold that wc were glad of a 
 large fire, which our men had lighted in the neighbourhood of the tents. 
 
 On 13th November, at daybreak, wc started, following the shore for an hour, and then, striking to the 
 left, we went through a wide pass which had a had reputation. Guard-houses, occupied by Zebecks, were 
 stationed every five miles for the protection of travellers. These men are generally old freebooters who 
 have entered into the service of the Government, but who, if report be true, have not entirely relinquished 
 their old trade, as they levy a tax upon all travellers who are not powerful enough to resist them. As we 
 were an armed party, we passed without molestation. At one of the stations they had caught) or pretended 
 to have caught, a maumiis sujet, whom they were belabouring with the flat of their hancljers, — short swords 
 which are carried in the belt. We halted in the centre of the pass to dine on some fresh yoghooH, procured 
 from a Burook tent close by. 
 
 The valley was wild and uueultivated, covered with hushes; amongst which were interspersed the tents 
 of wandering Turkoman tribes. Towards evening we left the valley and wound round the base of some low 
 hills, behind one of which lay Pergamus, a city of considerable extent. Behind it rose lofty mountains, crowned 
 by the Acropolis. I had a letter to a correspondent of M. Baltazzi, a Greek merchant of Smyrna, to whose 
 house we at once proceeded. In our progress, the inhabitants, who had perhaps never before seen a European 
 lady, swarmed out of their houses to stare at the cortege. After some delay, wc found out the house of the 
 agent, whose family welcomed us with open arms. The room appropriated to our use was the best in the 
 house; it was spacious and lofty. Like all the principal rooms in Turkish houses, it had a divan round it, 
 and in the walls were various niches containing the family crockery and such-like articles. The master of 
 the house was absent; but he bad expected us, and bad left directions for our reception. We were tired and 
 hungry ; but before dinner, which never takes place till sunset — and however famished the traveller may be, 
 it is almost impossible to obtain food before the appointed time — we had to submit to numerous visits 
 from tlic friends of our entertainers, Greek and Ai'mcnian ladies, who would walk into the room without 
 ceremony, sit and stare at us for ten minutes or more, and often leave without uttering a word. The kindness 
 of the people, or rather then" mode of showing it, is at times somewhat trying to the patience, as they think 
 it a mark of politeness never to leave you alone. They attend on you during meal-tiraes, and watch every 
 mouthful you take, and it is difficult to prevail upon them to leave the room if, overpowered with fatigue, 
 you wish to repose before their usual time of retiring to rest. 
 
 November 14th. — We went to visit the ruins of the buUding called the Church of St. John by the 
 inhabitants. It stands in the centre of the town, near the river Selinus, and consists of an immense oblong 
 mass of brickwork, with two detached circular edifices near it. Upon examination, it is very obvious that 
 
A8S0S. 
 
 21 
 
 this structure was not erected for a church, as it has no narthex, nor a bema of sufficient depth, — nor any- 
 other of the characteristic marks of a Greek church. It was evidently a basilica used foi' civil purposes. {See 
 Explanation of Plates.) It is quite possible that it may have been eventually used for ecclesiastical purposes, 
 "but it was not originally destined for a ehnreh. 
 
 We afterwards ascended the hill of the Acropolis by a paved road, following a zigzag course. The 
 castle stands about sis or seven hundred feet above the town. It was rebuilt in Byzantine times, and there 
 are few, if any, traces of the original fortress built by Lysimaehus. Within the citadel there are many 
 heaps of ruins : the only one the character of which was evident, was that of a Corinthian temple, which 
 stood in the centre of the enclosure. The substructure, which was vaulted, was entire, and around it lay 
 fragments of fluted columns and capitals. Excavations to a considerable depth had been made round it 
 by treasure-seekers. At first I had some hope that some valuable architectural evidences might have been 
 brought to light by these diggers, but I found that every sculptured stone that had been disinterred by them 
 had been broken to pieces by them in the expectation of discovering hidden gold. 
 
 On our return to the town, we found a young Greek at the house, who had been at Smyrna, and 
 who could speak Ereneh; he kindly volunteered to accompany us on a visit to the Mudir, whom we found 
 sitting in the Icoiiak of the Cadi, engaged with him in the administration of justice. The Mudir advised 
 us to take guards when we proceeded on our road to Smyrna, as that part of the country was very unsafe. 
 This I consented to do for the first time, for the neighbourhood of Pergamns had a bad reputation even at 
 Smyrna. Our new aequaintanco also accompanied us to the amphitheatre, the ruins of which are the finest 
 remaining here. It is of Roman times, and is one of very few existing in Asia Minor; for the Greeks were 
 never so much devoted to the sports of the arena as their conquerors. The situation is peculiar, as the 
 amphitheatre was built over a ravine, at the bottom of which formerly ran a stream which jiassed through 
 the centre of the oval, and was doubtless used for naumacJda. 
 
 October Mh. — We left Pergamns in company with two Zebecka, sent by the Governor to act as guards. 
 Our road at first lay duo south through an uncultivated plain. After three hours' ride we ascended a low 
 range of hills, passing by a settlement of expatriated Circassians. We then passed through Kasikcui, 
 where I dismissed the guards with a baksheesh. The Mudir of the place urged me to take another escort; 
 but we had had so much trouble with the first, — for they often lagged behind and wished to halt at unreasonable 
 times, tbat I declined. 
 
 We descended to the shores of the Gulf of Sanderlik, passing Elaea, where I purchased the torso 
 before mentioned, and took up our quarters foi* the night in a barn at the scala, as the weather was 
 too stormy for our tent to he safe. The nest morning the inhabitants endeavoured to deter us from 
 proceeding, by circumstantial accounts of there being eight men behind a ruined mill two or three miles 
 on the road, who were there for the purpose of waylaying us. They had been making inquiries about the 
 road we should take, and about onr time of starting. 
 
 We proceeded, however, without paying any attention to the reports, which were cither inventions 
 or exaggerations, skirting the shores of the gulf and passing close to the sites we had visited in our first 
 excursion, — Grynium, Myrina, and Cyme; — we also saw in the distance the town of Guzel-IIissar, said to be 
 the site of Aegai. After six hours' ride we turned eastwaiM, following a road parallel to, but at some distance 
 from, the Gulf of Smyrna. We were imable to reach Menimen that night, and therefore encamped at the 
 villnge of Davakeui. In the morning we proceeded on our journey, examining some Hellenic foundations on 
 the left of our road on the way. We then forded the Hermns, about two miles from Menimen, a cheerful 
 picturesque town, the site of Temnus. It was sunset before we reached the scala opposite to Smyrna, but 
 fortunately we were able to avail ourselves of the kindness of a gentleman who had a Smyrna caique there, 
 and who offered to take us across the gulf. 
 
 Amongst various coins of Mysia and the Troad obtained by me from peasants and others are the 
 following 
 
 Assos. — /E 3. Uclmeted head of Pallas. A££l. A recumbent griffin, monogram, and youth's head. 
 
 Cbbrene. — >E 5. Wreathed head of female, to right KE. Rev. Head of ram ; below, a bii-d. 
 M 1. Similar head KE. Jtev. Head of ram. 
 >E 1. Similar head KE. Jlev. Monogram. 
 
 Gakgaea. — >E 3. Wreathed head of Apollo. Horse galloping to right ; below, laurel-leaves. 
 /E. 1. Same type. 
 
 Gergitus. — >E 1. Head of Apollo, wreathed with laurel. Rev. PEP. Sphinx seated to right, 
 Lampsacus. — Of Augustus. /E 4, 
 
 Pergamds. — >E. Cistophori — 3 silver, 1 copper, and various others. 
 
 Or 
 
THK COASTS OF .^:oLTA, IONIA, AND CARtA, 
 
 PoROSELBNE. — /E 1. Bearded head to right. Mev. flOP, above a dolphin to right. 
 Alexandria Icones. — Several ahnomous and colonial. 
 
 Eeettis. — >E IJ. Head of Ulysses, with pointed conical cap. Ben. BIPY. Between arms of a figure 
 curved like the triquetra,. 
 
 Neandria. — ^ 1. Head defaced. Rev. NEAN. Grain of barley. 
 
 Scepsis. — J£. 4. Sea-horse. Rev. £KH. Tree within a square ; outside, a cornucopia. 
 The same. /E 1. 
 
 Tenedos. — >E 2. Wreathed head of Apollo. Rev. Hatchet with two heads, before TE. 
 Most of these are very rare. 
 
23 
 
 PRIBNE, BRANCHIDtE, & HERACLEIA. 
 
 S the weather was dry though cold, on December 8th I left Boujah by rail for Gelat- 
 kave, — the extreme point to which the Smyrna and Aidin Railway was then open. My 
 servant the sapper, who bad recently arrived from Corfu, remained for the night at a eaf6 
 near the station, in charge of the borses and baggage, while I rode on to the Tillage 
 of Salatine, — where there was a little colony of railway employes, to spend tbe night at 
 the house of some friends. Two of these gentlemen accompanied me to Aisalook the next 
 morning. There my man and borses were to have met me. As, liowever, they did not 
 make their appearance, I spent the day in visiting the ruins of Ephesus for the second time. The present 
 aspect of this celebrated city has been so frequently described by former travellers that there is bnt little 
 left to say about it. AH tbe remains above ground are of tbe Roman period. 
 
 There are no traces of tbe site of tbe Temple of Diana amongst the ruins. In the piers of an aqueduct built in 
 the Byzantine or early Turkish times to supply the castle at Aasalook — which is two miles distant from the ancient 
 city — with water, I noticed several pieces of white marble lacunaria and Greek honeysuckle ornaments, which, 
 from their dimensions and tbe superior quality of execution, must have been brought from a building of tbe 
 size and stylo of tbe Temple of Diana. For instance, amongst them was an ovolo moulding 9 inches in depth, 
 and a piece of the flute of a column, measuring 6 inches from fillet to fillet. These must have belonged to 
 a Greek building of vast dimensions, and there are no traces of such a building amongst tbe ruins now 
 visible at Ephesus. 
 
 Tbe temple probably stood at the bead of tbe port, where are the ruins of a building called the Great 
 Gymnasium. The fragments of large porphyry columns which lie near, and which correspond with the two 
 now in tbe mosque of Aisalookj could not have belonged to the peristyle of tbe temple, — which was of the 
 Ionic order, and therefore would have had fluted columns, — but they may have belonged to the Jii/jitsihron or 
 opisthodomos, for wc know that a second order (Corinthian) was employed in the Temple of Apollo Brancbidfe, 
 in that of Ceres at Elcnsis, in that of Jupiter at iEgiua, and in the temple at Aizani. {See Plate 14.) 
 
 The only ruins of a temple now above ground at Ephesus are those of the temple of Julius Caesar and 
 Rome, which lie at the foot of Mount Coressus, near the great Agora. The temple stood upon a rocky 
 platform, twenty or thirty feet above the general level of the plain. It had four columns i7i ant-is — immense 
 monoliths, which have fallen from the platform into the valley below. The stones of the pediment and frieze are 
 strewn about, but are so little damaged that the portico might be rebuilt without difficulty. The ornamentation 
 is rich, but it has been worked with the drill. This temple was erected in the time of Augustus. 
 
 Near the temple was a half-buried seat, with a good Greek honeysuckle on it. This was almost the only 
 fragment of early Greek work that I saw amongst the numerous ruins. As the exploration of Ephesus was not 
 one of the objects of my journey, I made no arrangements for remaining long upon tbe ground. Eor a full 
 account of the ancient and present state of the city, I must refer my readers to Mr. Ealkener's interesting 
 monograph.' In that work they will find a learned disquisition on the size, form, and site of the Temple of 
 Diana and other public buildings, completely illustrated by some of the author's most delicate and beautiful 
 drawings. 
 
 As mv servant did not make his appearance, I passed the night in the wretched caf6 of Aisalook, which 
 was enlivened by the presence of the commandant of the castle, whose custom was to spend his evenings 
 there, drinking raki with the cafdgec. "What with bis boisterous conviviality and tbe attacks of fleas, and the 
 cold, sleep was for some time out of the question, 
 
 I waited till the afternoon of the 10th, when, bearing that my man bad been seen on the road to 
 Scala Nuova, I was compelled to proceed to that town upon the only aniinal that could be procured at the 
 
 I Ephp^iis ,md the Te„ip!e of Dhma, liy Edwi.nl Fiilk. noc, Day .V ymi, London, 1.SG3. 
 
34 
 
 THK COASTS or AiOhlA, IONIA, AND CAEIA. 
 
 village, — fi miseral)le hack, with a country saddle of wood and a rope hridle,— accompaDied hj a guide from the 
 village. "We were about an hour crossing the marshy plain of Ephesus. We then bore to the south, 
 beyond the building called the Prison of St. Paul, and passed over a range of low hills covered with brushwood. 
 At about two miles' distance from the plain I ohseiwed, in a valley near the sea, some Hellenic foundations near 
 the spot marked as those of Ortygia on the Admiralty Chart. As evening was approaching, we bad not time to 
 visit tbem, bat I resolved to do so on the first opportunity. After crossing the bills, we descended to the 
 seashore, passing the site of Phygela, where there is little remaining beyond some Cyclopean walls. Near this 
 place are the remains of an aqueduct carried along the side of the mountains on the left, and in about an 
 hour's time we passed under the arches of it where it crossed the road. This aqueduct probably supplied 
 Phygela with water from the bills. At sunset we reached Scala Nuova, a small maritime town huUt upon a hill 
 jutting into the sea. Here I found the missing man and baggage. Wo obtained lodgings in the house of a 
 respectable Greek, a stonemason by trade. He mentioned, that not long before the time of our visit he had 
 been employed in taking stones from Priene, for the purpose of building a factory at Sokia, our next station. 
 It is thus that the remains of public buildings are fast disappearing tbrougliout the country. 
 
 We started at noon for Sokia, which was five hours' journey distant. After two hours' ride from Scala Nuova, 
 we again came to the seashore, near the plain of Cliangli, where, according to Pocockc, was the ancient place of 
 assembly called Panionium. Before us we saw the fine range of Mycale, behind which, in the valley of the Maaander, 
 was situated Priene. Here we turned to the left, and crossed some of the lower mountains of the range hy a rough 
 road, reaching Solda— a small hut flourishing town— at dusk. I had letters to Mr. Clarke, an Englishman who 
 established a manufactory for liquorice here about twelve years ago. His example has been imitated hy a 
 Mr. Forbes, who has a rival establishment in the town. To these manufactories the prosperity of the place is 
 owing. Mr. Clarke and bis amiable wife received me in the most hospitable manner. Nor did his kindness 
 cease here; for he furnished me with letters to a Greek seraff residing at Kelibesh, who laid claim to be 
 proprietor of the land upon which Priene stood. 
 
 The nest morning we went over the manufactory, an interesting monument of the national spirit of 
 enterprise exhibited hy Mr. Clarke, I met hero also a Scotch gentleman whom we had encountered on 
 hoard the Prench steamer at Syra. He had sailed from Aberdeen to Patras, and made bis way from that 
 place to Syra, without understanding a word of Greek. From Sokia there is a fine view of the plain of 
 the Mseander, which is there about eight miles wide, and as level as a howling- green. It is bounded on the 
 north by the rugged range of Mycale, and on the south hy the range of Mount Latmus. From an eminence 
 it is possible to see as far as the sea in one direction and as far as Aidin Guzel-Hissar on the other. 
 
 The next day we rode to Kelibesh, a Greek village built on the side of the mountain, about a mile 
 from the ruins of Priene. It is three hours' ride from Sokia. Our road skirted the plain, and was occasionally 
 unpleasantly marshy. To reach Kelibesh we had a steep ascent of several hundred yards to surmount. The 
 streets of tlie town are very steep. We found the seraff absent ; but bis housekeeper installed us comfortably 
 in the best room in the bouse, and lighted a mmigal for us, as the wind was bitterly cold. 
 
 I bad time to pay a short visit to the ruins of Priene the same evening ; tbey are situated on a declivity at 
 the base of a precipitous rock, upon which stood the Acropolis : the walls of it are still to be traced from below. 
 The walls of the town are entire throughout t)ioir whole circuit. Within them are many shapeless heaps of 
 ruins. Upon a platform of rock, bounded by a terrace wall about 25 feet above the general level, is the 
 heap of the ruins of the Temple of Minerva Polias, The walls of its periholus can be traced on two sides ; 
 on the other sides the terrace forms a sufficient boundary. At the entrace there bad been a propylrea, 
 with engaged pilasters on each side. The capitals of this, much damaged, were lying around. I found 
 that the heap of the temple had been but little disturbed ; drums of columns, capitals, and architrave-stones 
 stood one upon the other almost as tbey had fallen. They were of Parian marble, and the workmanship 
 was evidently of the finest character, though the pai-ts exposed to the weather were much worn. I found 
 near it several fragments of a fine draped marble statue, which had evidently been lately broken up. There 
 bad been other smaller buildings within the periholus. Below the platform, upon which the temple stood, 
 were the remains of an agora, the plan of which could be easily traced ; and on the side of the mountain 
 were many tombs. I found on the ground a coin in good preservation — /E 3, head of Pallas casqued ; Rev. 
 an inscription with a crown formed of the detours of the Masander. 
 
 I subsequently procured other coins, all with the same head, and having on the reverse the following 
 inscriptions : — n PI H AAKHN— HPIH AYXAR — nOAl — nPIHNH HOAAOA; and others of the same 
 description. 
 
 The seraff returned the next day, and said be would offer no opposition, if it were tiiought desirable to 
 excavate on his land. He gave me a letter to a friend at leronda (Branchidtc). 
 
 After a second visit to the ruins of Priene, we started across the plain, making for a largo mass of 
 building, — the Theatre of Miletus, — which, from its isolated position, is distinctly visible for many miles on all 
 sides. The plain is partly cultivated ; but is for the most part marshy. My horse was quite knocked up with a 
 gallop, and before we reached the Mseander, I was obliged to dismount and lead him. The poor quality of 
 the food given to the horses here — chopped straw — accotmts for their want of strength for unusual exertion. 
 They will go at a walk for many days together, but soon fail if tbey are urged to an unaccustomed pace. 
 
PRIENE, BKANOHID.'E, AND HERACLEIA, 
 
 Wc crossed the Mseander in a curious tlirec-cornered ferry-boat, and arrived at mid-tlay at the hovels which 
 stand upon the ruins of Miletus. The malaria from the plain renders this place so unhealthy that there are 
 but few inhabitants. The Aga gave us a mid-day meal, and upon learning the state of my horse, offered to 
 sell me a stout one of Turkoman breed for £40. This is an unusually high price for horses in this country. 
 If you travel for several days consecutively, it is always the best plan to hire horses as you go on, for no 
 single horse could stand more than a few days' journeys; and in tlio winter time, when you cannot make 
 use of a tent, the stages depend upon the distances of the villages from one another, which, in this thinly- 
 populated country, arc sometimes very great. 
 
 There are no ruins at Miletus worth mention, but those of the theatre, which have been frequently 
 described and illustrated. I saw two figures of recumbent lions, which had stood upon tombs like that of the 
 Lion Tomb at Cnidns : one of these is described by Mr. Newton in the Parliamentary Papers. He saw it when 
 he visited Miletus from BranehidiB. I obtained hei-e a silver coin of Miletus, AR 3, a wreathed head of Apollo; 
 Rev. Lion walking to left, regarding a Star behind, — and copper coins with similar devices. 
 
 After leaving Miletus, we crossed some low hills and passed through a small village inhabited by Greeks, 
 but, owing to the ignorance of our guide, did not reach leronda till midnight. As no one was sth'ring, we 
 roused the head-man of the village, who, after much grumhhng, accompanied us to the house of the person 
 to whom I had a letter. The village is built round the ruins of the temple, and of materials derived from it. 
 Prom amidst the houses rise three Ionic columns to a height of G8 feet. Two of these are fluted, and have 
 the architrave-stone entire; the other is unfluted, and stands at the distance of 100 feet to the south of the 
 others; thus marking the enormous width of the temple. Heaps of immense blocks of marble, in two lines, 
 extended to a distance of nearly 300 feet, marking the positions of the walls of the cella. The ruins are the 
 most imposing of their kind to be seen, and give a better idea — even in their present state — of the grandeur 
 of Greek architcctm-e than any other existing ruins, even than those of the Temple of Jupiter Olympius at 
 Athens. The dimensions of the blocks average 6 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet. Their great weight has prevented 
 their removal to any distance; and although the houses of the village and a church have been constructed from 
 fragments of these blocks, the greater part of them remain where they fell; so that their removal would throw 
 much light upon the construction of the temple and the peculiarities of Greek architecture. A windmill has 
 been built upon the highest lieap, which stands over the opisthodomos. The inner area of the temple is free, 
 occupied only by a few wild fig-trees. In it lies a block with a sculptured genius on it, with outspread wings. 
 {See Plate 9.) It is difficult to conjecture from the form and dimensions of this block, to what part of the 
 temple it originally belonged. It would appear, however, to have formed part of the decoration of the upper 
 part of the doorway. Several capitals of the pilasters of the interior remain on the north side. The style 
 of the sculptures on them is of very beautiful design, and well executed. The capitals measure 6 feet 6 inches 
 at their point of junction with the shaft. The sculptures represent griffins with foliage. 
 
 The village of leronda is situated about two miles from the Straits of Samos, on the west, and about three 
 from the Gulf of jilendelet, on the south. The ground slopes down to the sea each way. On the west shore 
 was the port of Panormus, and from it the Via Sacra led up to the temple. On each side of the road were 
 statues of seated figures and lions. Eleven of these remained until 1859, when they were removed by Mr, 
 Newton. They are now placed in the British Museum. I followed the road for some distance, hut found no 
 traces of any other sculptures. A peasant oflered to sell me the head of a statue in an archaic style, 
 probably that of one of these figures ; hut, as I had no means of transporting it, I was unwillingly compelled 
 to decline purchasing it. 
 
 The inhabitants informed me that leronda was very unhealthy in the autumn, as malaria from the valley 
 of the Mteander caused much fever. 
 
 Prom Branchida! we proceeded round the Gulf of Mendelet, over a rnggcd country. The rock everywhere 
 appears through the soil, which is barren and almost incapable of cultivation. On our right was the sea; 
 on our left an upland country, covered with brushwood; beyond which could be seen the summit of Mount 
 Grium. The rain fell in torrents the whole day, and we were heartily glad to reach the shelter afforded by a 
 miserable caf^ at Ak Boukoi for the night, where we obtained a corner to sleep in, though our repose was 
 broken by the uproar caused by a number of drunken Greek sailors. On the following day we started in tlie 
 midst of the rain for lassus. The road was worse than that which we had followed on the preceding day, as 
 it was more mountainous. In the afternoon we reached the miserable hamlet of Assyn, where, after some 
 delay, we obtained a mud hut to ourselves for the night. 
 
 The next day I visited the ruins of lassus, which are situated on a small peninsula. The city walls are 
 entire ; but there are no extensive remains of any large building, though the whole space within the walls 
 is strewn with fragments of building-stone. The theatre, which is on the top of a hill, is the most perfect 
 building remaining, and is a specimen of good Greek art. This town presents one of the best preserved plans 
 of a Greek city. (See Plate 41.) 
 
 On the mainland arc many tombs of an early period ; but all have been opened. 
 
 The scene around the city is one of utter desolation. On every side there are low stony hills, with bushes 
 growing between the rocks ; but no sign of cultivation nor of habitations is to he seen, as the hamlet of Assyn 
 is concealed by a turn in the road. As the rainy season had set in with great violence, I determined to turn 
 
 H 
 
T]ir. (.'OASTS OF -EOLIA, TuNIA, AND CAEIA, 
 
 back at this point, iiislcad uf going oii to Budroum, as I had originaUy intended, and to return to the valley 
 of the Maaandi.T by wiiy oi' Moiidelct, visiting the rnins of Euromus on my way. 
 
 As Mr. Newton had explored the southern part of the gulf as far as Bargylia, a place some twenty miles 
 south of lassns, and as the exploration of the coast had thus been completed, there was no inducement to go south, 
 except the wish to revisit Budroum, the scene of our former labours. Accordingly, we turned eastward from 
 Assyn, passing over a mountain, — one of the range of Mount Grium, and descended into a cultivated valley. 
 Here my guide lost his way; but, guided by tho invaluable Admiralty Chart of the coast, we soon found 
 the track to Bucomns. Hero, in a nook in the hills, stand fifteen columns of a fine Corinthian temple. 
 All other traces of the town that stood here, except tho outline of the theatre on a neighbouring hill, have 
 disappeared. 
 
 The temple, which was taken by Dr. Chandler to he that of Labranda, and which was given in the " Ionian 
 Antiquities " under that title, is one of late Boman character. It was hesastyle and peripteral, and measured 
 about 90 feet by '1^ &t;t on tJie iipper step. The columns have tablets for inscriptions upon them. Their 
 bases are Attic, with ciirichcd tori. The foliage of the capitals is of the acanthus-leaf. The frieze is convex, 
 showing that the building was probably not of an earlier date than the time of Trajan. 
 
 It was night before we reached Mendelet. The Aga, though he had to be roused from his slumbers, 
 was very ohKging, and gave us quarters in one of the rooms of his konak, which had formerly been the 
 residence of a Bere-hey, and had been richly decorated. The Aga had visited our ships when at Budroum, and 
 consequently claimed to be an old acquaintance. lie and the Cadi remained talking with us till a late hour. 
 The next day, on our departure, he insisted upon sending a mounted cavass as a guard through the pass of 
 BafB, as its pojiulation had a had character. 
 
 "We found the character he had given of the people of BafTi confirmed by theii' conduct. The Mudir of 
 the village for a long time paid no attention to my request that he would find us a lodging for the night, 
 although it was backed by the cavass and by the exhibition of my biiguruldi. At last I thi'eatened to report 
 his conduct to the Paslia of his district ; and this resulted in our having a hut, with a dilapidated roof 
 which admitted the rain, allotted to us for the night. I must do the Mudir the justice, however, to say that, 
 this matter being arranged, he became more amicable, and invited mo to partake of his evening meal. "We 
 had ascended for three hours from Mendelet by a rocky road, hei'e and there lined with fir-trees. Brom Baffi 
 we could see the lake, which takes its name from the village. Near it were situated the ruins of Heracleia, 
 at the foot of Mount Latmus, which towers above the neighbouring mountains. 
 
 The cavass was very much averse to my turning aside to visit Heracleia ; when wo reached the low 
 land near the lake, he urged that the rains had swollen the streams, and that our konak was a long day's 
 ride distant. I told him he might go back if he pleased, but without baksheesh; so he made the best of 
 the matter, and follo\ved me grnrahliug the whole way. The view of the lake is very impressive. It is 
 a sheet of water about eight miles long by two broad at the widest part, bounded on all sides but tho 
 west, where it joins the plain of the Micander, by rocky mountains. The mountain on the right liand is 
 Latmus,— called Bosh Barmak, or the Bivo Eingers, by the Turks, — from five ofi'shoots which jut out from the 
 principal mountain ; it is rocky and precipitous, and in tho dull weather has a gloomy, sombre aspect. 
 The water of tlie lake is very shallow for several hundred yards from the shore, and there is a wide expanse 
 of sand at the eastern end. At the time of our visit the sand and water were covered by thousands of 
 wild fowl, which seemed to disregard the Turkish sportsmen who were shooting at the nearest of them from 
 behind artificial hanks. 
 
 "We rode for a mile over tho sandy shore ; the cavass meanwhile adjourned to the neighbouring village 
 of Brojak — possibly for the purpose of drinking raki. Our progress was checked by a rocky promontory, 
 upon which stood the ruins of a Byzantine castle. Leaving my horse with my servant, I climbed over the 
 promontory, and came in sight of one of the most picturesque groups of ruins I ever saw. The whole site 
 of the city of Heracleia consisted of immense boulders of rock that had fallen from Mount Latmus; upon these 
 the soil accumulating, had formed platforms upon which were perched detached ruins. Upon the highest of 
 these eminences stood the celJa of a small Boric temple, which had formerly had two columns in aniis. 
 The capitals and drums of these were lying around, and near them was the greater part of a draped female 
 statue of white marble. Near tho temple the plan of an agora could be clearly traced, and at the foot 
 of the platform upon which this stood were several deserted houses, apparently of Byzantine times. "Wherever 
 there was a plot of earth, it had been tilled by the inhabitants of the few houses that stood amongst the 
 ruins. I procured a few coins of Heracleia from them,— all Greek, of small size. /E 1. An owl. Hev. a 
 dolphin— HPAKAErHTilN- 
 
 After exarauiing the ruins, I returned to my servant, who was apprehensive on account of the delay. 
 "We here purchased from one of tho sportsmen some wild ducks for two piasters (about fourpence) apiece. 
 Our valiant Janissary came galloping towards us, and urged our immediate departure. Our road lay along the 
 south side of the lake, and was an execrable one, all up and down hill, and so full of holes, and interspersed 
 with jutting rocks, that our progress somewhat resembled going up and down stairs on horseback. By dint of 
 urging on our horses we reached our destination, a house called Sakisboumou, soon after sunset. We had left 
 the lake a short distance from its western extremity, and passing through a narrow valley, and over some low 
 
PRIENE, AND HEKACLEIA. 
 
 hills, descended by a grassy slope into the valley of the Meander. In our descent we passed an Ionic capital 
 near the spot marked as the site of Pyrrha on the Admiralty Chart. 
 
 SaldsbournoLi is a fishing-station on the banks of the Mteauder, — a wretched swampy spot, infested with 
 malaria. The fishery is a monopoly belonging either to the Pa,sha or to some other rich inhabitant of Aidin, 
 who lets it to an Armenian; the agent is also an Ai'menian. He received us hospitably. His house was small, 
 but had glass windows, — an unusual circumstance in this part of the country. Ilis predecessors had all succumbed 
 to intermittent fever in a short space of time, but he bad managed to exist there three years without a single 
 attack ; and this be attributed to the fact of bis having kept the windows closed day and night. Wo dined 
 and breakfasted upon what formed the staple food of the little colony of fishermen, — a sort of caviare, prepared 
 from the roe of the fish caught in the river. This is sent in great quantities to Smyrna, where it is 
 considered a luxury. Early the next morning we visited the fishery. Tlie mode of catching the fish is yery 
 simple. The stream of the Moeander is diverted into a canal in which there are barriers of wicker-work, with 
 nets attached ; within the barrier are compartments, always full of fish, so that a large supply can be 
 forwarded to the neighbouring towns on the shortest notice. We crossed the river in a ferry-boat, and rode 
 across the plain to Prlene. After paying a second visit to the ruins, we left for Sokia, where we were again 
 entertained in Mr. Clarke's hospitable mansion. 
 
 On December 23rd we started for the ruins of Magnesia ad Mjeandriira, accompanied by Mr. Boyd. We 
 rode for three hours skirting the plain to the residence of a Mogrebbin chief, who had quitted Algiers at the 
 time of the Preuch occupation, and to whom Mr. Clarke recommended us. He received us well; but as his 
 followers were numerous and intrusive, we decided to take up our quarters at the house of the Aga of 
 Inekbazar, a hamlet situated near the ruins of Magnesia. 
 
 We found the ancient town in the midst of a marshy plain, which is separated from that of the Mseander 
 by Mount Thorax. I was astonished at the extent and importance of the ruins. The first object that attracts 
 the eye of the traveller is the peribolus wall of the Temple of Diana Leueophrync. This is about twenty 
 feet high, and almost entire. The heap of ruins of the temple lies in the centre of the enclosure. Many of tbe 
 bases, drums, and capitals of the columns lie as they fell. This edifice was built by Hcmogenes of Alabanda, the 
 architect of the Temple of Bacchus at Teos. It was pseudo-dipteral in plan, and measured 198 feet by 106 feet. 
 The style is an enriched Ionic. The greater part of the frieze was dug up for the French Government by an 
 expedition under M. Texier. It was safely transported to Paris, and is now in the Louvre. The exceution of 
 the sculptured figures is very unequal in character. I noticed in the midst of a pool of watei', a slab of frieze 
 finer in style than any in the Louvre. This was probably disinterred by some Greeks who had, shortly before my 
 visit, removed several stones for the purpose of building a church in the neighbourhood. This inequality in the 
 style of the sculpture, which I also observed at Teos, is only to be accounted for by supposing that the master 
 sculptor had himself executed but one or two slabs, leaving the remainder to be carved by bis pupils. Near the 
 temple stands a large Roman building, perfect, with the exception of the roof: this appears to be a basilica. 
 There is also a fine stadium, with the seats almost entire, on the side of Mount Thorax; and in the plain 
 there are the ruins of a large gymnasium and of various smaller edifices. The soil is very marshy; several 
 streams run through tbe plain : in rainy weather these overflow and inundate the ruins. 
 
 The Aga is old enough to remember M, Texier's expedition. His possessions at one time comprised all 
 the country in tbe valley, but now they are greatly diminished. He is a great hoimdgee, or sportsman, and 
 his whole life is devoted to the chase. While we were exploring the ruins, the rain fell in a deluge ; so, 
 as there was every probability of its continuing for several days, I determined to return to Smyrna without 
 delay. In order to attain this object, we rose the next morning before daybreak, and proceeded to Salatine 
 Pass in a storm of rain. I was obliged to leave men and baggage behind, as I was anxious to reach Gelat- 
 kave in time for the last train to Smyrna, and as the roads were slippery, they could only proceed at a 
 walk. After a disagreable ride of seven hours, I reached the station in time to catcli the train, and so 
 reached my friends at Boujah the same evening. 
 
T1-IE CUAST8 OF -*:ULIA, lOXIA, AND CARTA, 
 
 P II I E N E. (Prom lonmii Antlquiihs, Part I.) 
 
 The acropolis is situated upon a natural terrace, encircled, excepting towards tlie plain, by an ancient wall 
 of tlie masonry termed pseudisodomnm. This has been repaired and made tenable in a later age by additional 
 outworks. A steep, high, and naked rock rises bebind, and the terrace terminates in front in a most abrupt 
 and formidable precipice, whence the spectator looks down with awe on tbc diminutive objects beneath. 
 The massive heap of the temple below appears to tbe naked eye but as ebippings of marble. 
 
 A winding track leads down from tbe acropolis to the city; the steps cut in the rock are narrow; 
 the path no wider than sufficient to permit the approach of a single person. 
 
 The Temple of Minerva Polias, although prostrate, is one of the remains of Ionian elegance and 
 grandeur too considerable to be hastily or slightly examined. When entire, it overlooked the city, which 
 was seated on tbe side of tbe mountain on terraces cut out of the slope, descending in gradation to the 
 edge of the plain. The communication from one terrace to another was by staircases cut in the solid rock, 
 many of which are still remaining. Below the temple arc the ruins of the agora, consisting of fragments of 
 the Doric and Ionic orders of architecture. 
 
 On a lower terrace the remains of a stadium are seen, one of its sides being supported hy the ancient 
 wall of the city, which is strengthened by buttresses, for tlic purpose of resisting the pressure of the 
 masonry forming the seats of tlie stadium on the side next the plain. The seats of the opposite side still 
 remain. 
 
 All the buildings are constructed with the marble of the mountain, which in some instances assumes a 
 dark hue, although the general tint is grey. The whole circuit of tbc city walls may be easily traced 
 descending from the acropolis to the plain ; many masses remain worthy of admiration for their solidity and 
 beauty. There are also considerable remains of an inner wall of equal importance. 
 
 The city was approached by three gates : one of them is towards Kelibcsh ; beyond it are vaults and 
 sepulchres hewn iu the rock. Another is in tbe wall facing the plain; tbe descent to it is rugged and steep; 
 the steps are continued beyond the gateway to a fountain, now surrounded by a marsh. 
 
 The sito of Priene is entirely deserted; there are three mills and the house of a baker at tbe foot of 
 the mountain to the east of the city, at a spot now called Samsun; and beyond this tbe Turkish village of 
 Kelibesh, consisting of about twelve houses. Higher up, to the north of this, is Giaur Kelibcsh, a modern 
 Greek village of about two hundred houses, iu a flourishing coudition and daily iucreasiug. 
 
 L A B R A N D A. (From Ionian AiUiqiiiiies, Part II.) 
 
 On the way from lassus to Mendelet, which is distant four hours, and three from Mylasa, we left the 
 level green, and riding northwards, through stubble of Turkish wheat, came in an hour to a beautiful and 
 extensive plain, covered with vines, olive and fig-trees, and flocks and herds feeding ; and skirted by 
 mountains with villages. We crossed it by a winding road, with the country house of the Aga of Mylasa 
 on our right hand ; and passing a village called Jaeklys, unexpectedly discovered tbe solemn ruins of a 
 temple; but as it was dusk, we continued our journey to Mendelet, which was an hour farther on. 
 
 The temple was of the Corinthian order, sixteen columns with part of their entablatiu-e standing; the 
 cell and roof demolished. It is in a nook or recess ; the front, which is towards the east, close by tbc 
 mountain foot, the back and one side overlooking tbe plain. The style of tbe architecture is noble, and 
 made us regret that some members, and in particular tbc angle of the cornice, wore wanting. Its marbles 
 have been melted away as it were piecemeal in the furnaces for making lime, which arc still in use close by 
 the rain. A town has ranged with the temple on the north. The wall, beginning near it, makes a circuit 
 on the hill, and descends on the side towards Mendelet. Tbe thickets, which have overrun the site, arc 
 almost impenetrable, and prevented my pursuing it to the top ; but the lower portion may easily be traced. 
 It bad square towers at intervals, and was of a similar construction with tbe wall at Ephesus. Within it is 
 a theatre cut in the rock, with some seats remaining. In the vineyards beneath are broken columns and 
 marble fragments; and in one, behind the temple, two massive sarcophagi, carved with festoons and beads; 
 the lids on, and a hole made by force in their sides. They are raised on a pediment, and, as you approach, 
 appear like two piers of a gateway. Beyond the temple are also some ruins of sepulchres. I was much 
 disappointed in finding no inscriptions to inform us of the name of this deserted place, which from its position 
 on a mountain by the wayside, and it.s distance from Mylasa, I am inclined to believe was Labranda. 
 
THE VilY UF JIYUS, 
 
 2^ 
 
 THE CITY OF MTUS, (Viom loi/iaii Antiquities, Tavt II.) 
 
 So early as the secontl century the hiiildings had hceii so destroyed that the only one remaining was 
 a Temple of Bacchus, of white marhle. On the left hand is a theatre hewn in the mountftin, with some 
 mossy remnants of the wall of the proscenium : the marble seats, are removed. Between the huts and the lake 
 are seyeral terraces, with steps cut as at Priene. One, by which our tent stood, was a quadrangular area, 
 edged with marble fragments; and we conjectured it had been the agora. By another were stones ornamented 
 with sliields of a circular form ; but the principal and most conspicuous ruin is the small Temple of Bacchus, 
 whicli is seated on an abrupt rock, with the front only, which is towards the east, accessible. The roof is 
 destroyed. The ceU. is well built of smooth stone with a brown crust upon it ; the portico was in aniis. 
 "VVe measured some fragments of it, and regretted that any of tlie members were missing. It has been used 
 as a church, and the entrance walled up. The marbles which lie scattered about, the broken columns, 
 and mutUated statues, all witness a remote antiquity. We met with some inscriptions, hut not legible. 
 
 The city wall was constructed, like that at Ephesus, with square towers, and is still standing, except 
 towards the water. It runs up the mountain-slope so far as to be in some places hardly discernible. Without 
 the city are the cemeteries of its early inhabitants;' graves cut in tlie rock, of all sizes, suited to the 
 human stature at different ages, with innumerable flat stones, which serve as lids. Some are yet covered, 
 and many open, and by the lake, filled with water. The lids are overgrown with a short, dry brown moss, 
 their very aspect evincing old age. 
 
 An inserijjtion, close by a small hut in a narrow pass of the mountain westward, on marble, in large 
 characters, records a son of Seleucus, who died young, and the affliction of his parents; concluding with a 
 tender expostulation with them on the inefficacy and impropriety of their immoderate sorrow. Nearer the 
 city, among some trees, is a well, with the base of a column perforated on the mouth. 
 
 It may be inferred from the vestiges of monasteries and churches, which are numerous, that Myus was 
 repeopled when monachism, spreading from Egypt, towards the end of the fourth century, extended itself 
 over the Greek and Latin empires. The lake abounding in fish, afforded an important article of diet under 
 a ritual which enjoined frequent abstinence from flesh. It probably contributed to render this place, which 
 appears to have been the grand resort of devotees and anchorites, a nursery of saints, — another Mount Athos. 
 
 At the bead of the lake are the remains of several huUdings. Here, probably, stood Thymbria, within 
 four stadia of Jlyus. Near it was a charonium, or sacred cavern, one of those supposed by the ancients to 
 communicate with the infernal regions, and to be filled with the deadly vapours of Lake Avernus. 
 
31 
 
 COLOPHON & BRYTHRiE. 
 
 HORTLY after my return to Smyrna, I drew up a report for the Society of Dilettanti upon 
 tlie condition of tlie various ruins I had visited, accompanied by estimates of the probablp 
 expense of thoroughly exeavating each site. I classed the temples in the following order : — 
 
 1. The Temple of Apollo Smintheus. — This was placed first in the list, since it afforded 
 an entirely unique example of the Ionic order, its architectural details being at the same 
 time of good style. 
 
 2. The Temple of Minerva at Priene. Although the character of its architecture 
 was superior to that of any of the others, this temple had to a certain extent been explored and illustrated 
 by a former mission of the Society. 
 
 3. The Temple of Bacchus at Teos. — No excavations had been made here formerly ; therefore very little 
 information had been obtained about this building. The profiles of the mouldings were fine, though inferior 
 to those of the temples above mentioned. 
 
 4. The Temple of Apollo Branchidaj at leronda. — The architecture here is fine in style, and excavations 
 would give important results ; hut the enormous size of the blocks of marble that would have to be removed 
 would make operations here so expensive that I was reluctantly obliged to place this last on the list, as feasibility 
 and cost had to be taken into consideration. Such a work as the thorough exploration of this temple is worthy 
 the attention of a government that has ships of war at its disposal for scientific purposes. Looking at this 
 matter in a monetary point of view, it is probalile that the sculpture recovered herCj and on other important 
 sites, would, as at Halicarnassus and Cyrene, far exceed in value the cost of an Expedition. 
 
 Pending tlic decision of the Society as to which site was to he excavated, I remained quietly at Boujah — at 
 least during the inclement month of January ; but as the weather in Pebruary was mUd, I determined upon 
 visiting the ruins called those of Glares on the Chart, which are situated on the seashore, between Teos and the 
 plain of the Cayster. Accordingly, I engaged horses at Smyrna, whicli met us at Trianda, a station on the Aidin 
 Railway. On the morning of Pebruary 15tb, we rode from the station for four hours, in a westerly direction, 
 through a well-cultivated level country, and then turned into a valley about half a mile in breadth, hounded 
 on the south by Mount Aleman, and on the north by the lower range of Mount Galesius. The valley is about 
 six miles in length, and terminates in a sandy beach on the seashore. We passed the Turkish village of Zilli, 
 and half an hour afterwards reached the Greek village of Ghaiour-keui, where we took up our quarters in the 
 house of the head man of the place, who gave up his best room for our use. He was the owner of the land upon 
 which the ruins stood; and when he heard of the objeet of our visit, he expressed himself very deshons that 
 excavations should be carried on, probably in order that he might make a little money by them. 
 
 The room allotted to us was but small. Its windows were destitute of glass, and it had the additional 
 disadvantage of being situated over a stable, in which there was confined an unhappy pig, whose grunting 
 tended to disturb our night's rest. However, this was the best room in the village; and as the weather was 
 too cold and damp to permit of our living in a tent, we were obliged to make the best of circumstances. 
 
 The next morning we walked to the ruins, which arc situated on a hill near the sea, south of the valley, and 
 about three miles from Ghaiour-keui. The circuit of the town walls can be traced thi-oughout. They enclosed a 
 plot of ground about half a raile in length and a quarter of a mile in breadth. The theatre stood on the side of 
 a hill, on the south side. Most of the seats had been removed, and also all the stones of the proscenium. North 
 of the theatre a flight of steps led up to a plateau, iu the centre of which there had been a line temple, the only 
 traces of which were some pieces of marble, with mouldings, from which it appeared that it was of the Ionic order. 
 On the side of the hill, near the plateau, I found the figure of a draped female Caryatide, rather smaller than life- 
 size. It was sculptured in high relief, with a flat back-ground. The right arm was raised to support a basket 
 carried on the head. The figure was broken from the knee downwards ; but fragments of it were lying near it. 
 The head bad been carved separately, and attached to the back-ground by means of cramps, — a common 
 practice in the best periods of Greek art. 
 
33 
 
 THE COASTS UF .EOLIA, IONIA, AND CARIA. 
 
 Another statue, still more damaged, was found a little lower down tlie hill. Both these had evidently 
 belonged to tlie temple, wliicli was probably that of the Clarian Apollo. There were a few drums of columns 
 remaining within the peribolus, but no capitals nor architrave-stones, 
 
 Beyond the temple there were several detached groups of ruins, which appeared to be those of public 
 monuments. Near one of these we dug up a headless male figure, clad in a Roman toga. The head and right 
 arm were wanting, and the di-apcry of the right knee broken otf; otherwise the figure was in good condition. The 
 feet were entire, and had sandals. The statue was larger than life-size, and probably was that of a Roman 
 emperor. A little to the north of this spot there had been a colonnade of rude Doric columns; and adjoining it, 
 at the crown of the hill overlooking the valley, were the foundations of a smaller temple, with columns in antis. 
 The architrave, frieze, and cornice were lying near. They measured respectively I'OO ft., 1-01 ft., and 1-SO ft. The 
 cornice had a plain cymatium, corona, dentils, and a small cavetto moulding. The frieze was decorated with the 
 caput bovis between wreaths. The architrave had two fascias. This building also had been of the Ionic order. 
 
 In the middle of a thicket near the temple, we dug up a large portion of a draped colossal statue, which 
 had probably stood in the cella. The folds of the drapery were quite straight, so that the statue was either 
 of the revived archaic period, or was a figm-e of an early time, which had been placed in a temple of later date. 
 It may have been the statue of the Clarian Apollo, a representation of which wo find on the coins of Colophon, 
 The cemetery was situated on the opposite side of a ravine, which separated the hill upon which the town stood 
 from the main range of Mount Alemau. 
 
 Hero were a few tablets with monumental inscriptions, but none that threw any light upon the name 
 of the town. At the foot of the hill, half buried in tlie soil, was what appeared to be the figure of an animal. 
 Upon digging around it, wc found it was that of a lion in the act of devouring a bull, a subject very common in 
 Asiatic sculptures. The workmanship was rude and the figures much worn, but sufficiently perfect to show that 
 they bad an archaic character. 
 
 Wc spent several days at Ghaiour-keui, Our usual plan was to walk down to the ruins in the morning, 
 and to return at sunset. The valley is perfectly flat, and appears to have been foi-merly covered, to a great 
 extent, by the sea. On the north side of it, immediately opposite the hill upon which the ruins stand, there is a 
 cave in the face of the rock, and within it a spring of clear water. This is probably the cave of Mopsus, in which 
 was the oracle of the Clarian Apollo. 
 
 Although the ruins arc marked as those of Claros on the Admiralty map, there is good reason to suppose them 
 to be those of Colophon, We know that Colophon had a port, and that the Colophonians possessed ships; and 
 as there is no evidence of tlie previous existence of a port on any part of the neighbouring road, it is probable 
 tliat it was situated at the head of the valley, the sea having receded here as it has done in the valley of the 
 Caj'ster, and in that of the M^eander. 
 
 If tliis had been the case, the cave of the Clarian Apollo, now only half a mile from the ruins of the town, 
 would have been a much greater distance if the circuit of the harbour had to be made. 
 
 Again, Colophon was a city of considerable importance, and had it been situated higher up the valley, 
 certainly some slight traces of it would have been visible, for it is seldom that all traces of an inland city entirely 
 disappear, Livy certainly states that Colophon was two miles from the sea; but, on the other hand, Tacitus 
 mentions that the Emperor Germanicus landed at Colophon for the purpose of consulting the oracle of Claros. 
 
 Notium was the port of Colophon. This name may possibly have been given to a few houses situated in the 
 valley near the harbour, the remains of which may probably be buried by the alluvial soil, which is there very 
 deep, 
 
 "While at G-haiour-keui, I was desirous of exploring the coast between Colophon and the moutii of the Cayster, 
 and of visiting the ruins I had seen in December, when on the road to Scala Nuova. We left at an early hour 
 in the morning, hoping to be able to return before dark. Ascending by a rough mountain-road from the ravine 
 near the rnins, we followed the line of coast for about two hours, and then descended into a marshy valley, 
 through which ran a stream. Hera we found a number of fishermen, who were employed in catching fish 
 by stupefying them with some noxious compound, and securing them as they rose to the surface of the 
 water. We then passed over a range of sand-hills into the valley of the Cajster, which here is sand and 
 swamp. Skirting the side of a vast lagoon, we at length reached the river Cayster, which we crossed by 
 means of a ferry-boat, leaving our horses behind. 
 
 Prom this point we began to ascend the hill upon which Ortygia stood, according to the Admiralty 
 Chart. But we were much disappointed, on reaching the ruins, to find them only those of a second-rate 
 Byzantine fortress. The precipitous nature of the ground upon which this fortress stood precluded the idea 
 of its being the site of Ortygia, in which place there were many temples. The Hellenic foundations in the 
 valley near were of no importance. 
 
 As it was getting late when our inspection was completed, we hastened to rejoin our horses, and 
 galloped across the plain ; but notwithstandiiig our haste, i\'e were benighted iu the mountains upon one 
 of the worse roads of the country. As the path consisted of jagged rocks, and as it was quite dark, Mrs. 
 Pullan thought it the safest plan to dismount, and proceed on foot; upon which her horse broke loose, and 
 mounted the hill-side, rejoicing in its freedom. While I went to her assistance, my horse also escaped ; and 
 we were compelled to proceed on foot slowly. Our guides being active mountaineers, at length caught one 
 
COLOPHON AND EEYTHRyE. 
 
 33 
 
 of the horses, which was a grey, and therefore visible in. tho gloom — the other was not to be found. 
 However, we contrived to reach Ghaiour-keui by midnight, The nest morning the missing liorse was 
 brought in by a shepherd, minus bridle and stirrups. 
 
 Wc one day walked to Zilli, to see an old Turkish mansion, formerly the property of one of the Derebeys, 
 but now shut up, and in a ruinous condition. The principal rooms had been ornamented with carved 
 wood-work, and with patterns stamped on the jilaster of the walls. The windows had stained glass set in 
 plaster frames, as in the mosques of Constantinople : this had a brilliant, sparkling effect. 
 
 After a fortnight's absence, we returned to Boujah. The gleam of fine weather had passed away, and we 
 had a stormy and tempestuous time for two or three weeks. During the month of March I received instructions 
 from the Dilettanti Society to excavate thoroughly the site of the Temple of Bacchus at Teos; and having 
 engaged the services of old Spiro, and obtained tools and tackle, we started for Sighajik on April 2nd. 
 Our old friend the Yuzbashi was glad to see us again, especially as we took him an English gun as a present. 
 
 "We encamped this time close to the ruins, and in the course of three months thoroughly excavated the 
 site. The results were interesting in an architectural point of view, and furnished materials for a thorough 
 restoration of the temple. A great part of the frieze was discovered, but the sculpture was not of very high 
 character. An English ship having come into the harbour, I took the opportunity of sending two slabs 
 of it to England. These are now placed in the British Museum. 
 
 There were about fivc-and-twenty Turks and six Greeks employed as workmen. During the Bairam. 
 week, which is a strict holiday amongst tlie Turks, I was at liberty to carry out my plan for the survey 
 of the coast by visiting Hitri, the ancient Erythrje. Tliis excursion occupied five days. Eollowing tlie road 
 by which we came to Sighajik on the occasion of our first visit, we went as far as Yourlah, and then turned 
 to the west, passing the bead of the gulf of Gul Bagcheh (the Hose-garden), and by a mountainous pass 
 to the village of Serhardam, which lies in a natural basin in the middle of the peninsula of Karabournou. 
 Here we pitched our tent outside the town. The spot seemed to be most unhealthy, as the rains convert 
 the hollow between the mountains into a lake in the rainy season; and when the hot season comes on, the 
 bed of the lake becomes a pestiferous swamp. The next day, having crossed another range of mountains, we 
 came in sight of the Straits and Island of Seio. After a hot and fatiguing ride of nine hours, we reached 
 Ritri at sunset, and pitched our tent in a cornfield near the sea. The modern village is situated on the side 
 of a hill, upon which stood the acropolis and theatre, hut the ancient town lay on low groimd near the sea. 
 The city walls enclose a great extent of ground, but there are no ruins within tliem worthy of remark. I 
 obtained here several coins of the town, all of similar type, with tho head of Alexander as Hercules, and 
 with various inscriptions. 
 
 In returning we took another route, crossing the peninsula close to the rocky promontory, which forms 
 the termination, and which, from its dark colour, gives it the name of Karabournou, or Black Nose. We 
 passed the night near a village called Balaclava, the inhabitants of which have a bad reputation, and the 
 next day proceeded to the Gulf of Smyrna, following its shores over a series of rocky hillocks, till we reached 
 the village of Gul Bagcheh, which is so called from the fertility of the soil in its immediate neighbourhood. 
 Here we rested during the heat of a June day, and proceeded on our journey in the cool of the evening, 
 reaching Sighajik before midnight. 
 
 On another occasion we explored the coast in the opposite direction towards Lebedus. Passing the 
 harbour of Teos and the tumuli on its shores, we ascended the hill upon which Hypsili stands, and descended 
 to the valley on the other side, where are some hot springs, not far from the site of Lehedus. Near the 
 hot springs stand the ruins of a large Roman building, evidently a bathing establishment ; and about two miles 
 from it, near the sea, are the foundations of a similar building, on a larger scale, part of which was of 
 Greek masonry. Tliere were no remarkable architectural features about either of these buildings. 
 
 Invalids still resort to these springs, over which there are small houses erected, in which the patients 
 take a natural vapour bath. The incrustations from the stream have in one place formed a natural wall 
 four or five feet high. Erom the vicinity of the baths we could see the site of Lebedus and Mount Galcsius, 
 upon the other side of which lay Colophon. 
 
 These various excursions enabled me to complete the task which I had set myself to accomplish ; viz., 
 the exploration of the coast from the neighbourhood of Bargylia, in the Gulf of Mendelet — which bad been 
 visited by Mr. Newton and Lieut. Smith at the time of the Budroum Expedition — as far as the Troad. A 
 few gaps in the smwey unavoidably occurred ; such were the Gulf of Adrymittium, the extreme points of the 
 Promontory of Karabournou, and the range of Mount Mycale ; but there is no reason to believe that there 
 are ruins existing in any of these spots, except, perhaps, in the Gulf of Adrymittium, which was partly 
 explored by Eellowes. 
 
 North of the Troad and in the neiglibourhood of Adrymittium there is still a wide field for discovery, 
 for tliere are many sites of ancient cities that have not yet been identified, or at least not described by 
 travellers. Amongst others I may mention, Caresus, AUezonium, Zeleia, .^nia, Coryphas, Elatia, CiUius, Thebe, 
 Pedasus, Colona), Lyrnessus, Argesis, Gargara, and others : of some of these cities there are coins in existence. 
 Should I ever return to Asia Minor, I would endeavour to determine some of these sites, and to continue 
 my researches by following the shores of the Sea of Marmora. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
37 
 
 DESCRIPTION OP THE PLATES. 
 
 ASSOS ■ 
 
 E are informed by tradition tliat Assos was founded by the inhabitants of Methymna. 
 Epliorus jDlaces the town in the vicinity of Gargara. It received an iEoHan colony 
 and possessed a large part of the neiglihouring country, but Httle is known of its early 
 history. "When Mysia submitted to the kings of Lydia, this town bceamo the strongest 
 and most important place in the Troad, and when the province was conquered by the 
 Persians, these princes required the territory of Assos to furnish them with corn. 
 Strabo has recorded the curious history, not without precedent, of the eunuch Ilermias, 
 who was for some years governor at Assos. Ho originally belonged to the establisbmcnt 
 of a banker, but during a journey made to Athens, he learnt the lessons of Aristotle and Plato. On his 
 return be joined his master, who was about to seize by force Assos and Atarnea, and afterwards succeeded 
 him in the possession of those places. He summoned Aristotle and Xenocrates to bis court, and showed them 
 much attention. lie also gave bis niece in marriage to Aristotle ; but Memnon tlic Rhodian, a general in the 
 Persian service, pretending friendship for Ecrmias, invited him to his bouse, seized him, and sent him to the 
 King of Persia, who put him to death. Some years afterwards the eunuch Philetaeras became, in the same 
 manner, master of Pergamus. 
 
 Erom the bands of Lysimacbus, Assos passed into those of the Kings of Pergamus, and the Romans 
 took possession of it in the time of Attains III. This town produced several celebrated men, whose names 
 are given by Strabo. 
 
 Assos was visited by St. Luke and St. Paul when those apostles came to preach in the Troad. A 
 church of the 5th century shows that Christianity was established here even at that early period. Assos 
 became the seat of a bishop, and its bishop Masimus assisted at the Council of Epbcsus in the year 431. 
 The military constructions which have replaced the Acropolis and iEolian towers attest that in the Middle 
 Ages this place was still of importance. 
 
 The plateau of the citadel commands a view of the Gulf of Adrymittium, and of the canal of 
 Mytilene, the sea view extending as far as Scio, No ship can approach without being signalled from 
 the mountain. At the present time the village, which has succeeded this important place, has the name 
 of Bebram, probably from that of some emir who governed this part of the Troad. AU. the names of Turkish 
 provinces have been derived from those of emirs. 
 
 It is to be regretted that the walls of fortified cities have in later times been frequently disfigured by 
 conditions. The town of Assos is free from such disfigurement. One may here study to advantage the beautiful 
 Hellenic construction which time has spared. The perfection of the work is such that the Romans found 
 nothing to alter in it. All the walls aro constructed of blocks of trachyte, without mortar or cement. 
 
 Beginning the tour of the walls at the north angle, we observe a small square bastion, differing in 
 construction from the rest of the walls. The masonry is partly Cyclopean, partly isodomous, but in large 
 blocks, roughly hewn and bossy. It measures 21 feet by 13 feet. 
 
 A neighbouring tower is semicircular; its interior diameter is 23 feet ; and its walla are 5 feet thick. The 
 entrance to the town near tlie tower is by a doorway with a semicircular arcb, which appears to be Roman. 
 All the towers seem to be constructed on the same system. A fort surmounts the north-east angle, and 
 from it the walls turn south towards the postern : a wide road which runs alongside this wall is the only one 
 that is level. Here are placed numerous sarcophagi in the Greek style, and still in situ, all, however, opened ; 
 but the tops remain near them. The walls form in this place a re-entering angle, at the bottom of which 
 
 ' Aljriilgeil from Texicr's Asie MiiieuTe. 
 
 L 
 
DESCRIPTTON OF THE PLATES. 
 
 is a small postern. The great gateway is at the extremity of the Via Sacra. Below this point the ground 
 falls rapidly ; but all the walls are constructed with the same care, and are everywhere well preserved, except 
 in the lower part of the town, where the streams from the mountains have carried them away. 
 
 Another small fort, diagonally placed with regard to the other, but more extensive, defends the south 
 part of the town. No traces of gateways are to be found on this side. We again mount towards the 
 north to a gateway still well preserved, hut neither so rich nor so perfect as the former. This is also placed 
 in a rc-cutcring angle, proving that this arrangement was part of the system of fortification. 
 
 The walls on the north-east have completely disappeared ; probably they have been employed in con- 
 structing the walls of the citadel. A wall of less thickness than the exterior ramparts joins the foot of 
 the Acropolis, and runs as far as the internal angle at the west side of the great gateway. It was no 
 doubt intended to divide the city into two distinct quarters, — a common custom amongst the Persians, which 
 is still seen in modern Persian towns. In parts of the circuit the wall forms terraces. All the masonry 
 is bossy, and worked with the greatest care. 
 
 GATEWAYS. 
 
 The system of the defence of gateways varied little amongst the ancients ; generally the gateways were - 
 at the end of a sijnare or circular enclosure; sometimes the walls were carried in front of the gateways, 
 the towers making salient angles from the walls: this is the case at Assos, The principal gateway is north- 
 west of the town, and is on the plan of two square towers, forming a salient angle equal to their depth, 
 behind wliich is the opening of the gateway. It is to be remarked in this gateway, that the imposts have no 
 rebate, so that the gate shut against the masonry. In elevation, tlie outside is surmounted by a pointed 
 arch, constructed on the horizontal principle. The doorway itself is square-headed, composed of two stones 
 side by side. On the town side the doorway is surmounted by a semicircular arch, also constructed on 
 the horizontal principle. This is no doubt of great antiquity, and it tends to confirm the opinion that arches 
 with voussoirs were then imknown amongst the Greeks. The pointed arch, so little employed by the 
 Romans, is found in Asia from the eighth to the fifth century before the Christian era ; as in the tomb of 
 Tantalus and the Lycian tombs. 
 
 At the side of the great gateway is a postern of perfect construction. The tliird gate is situated at 
 the east of the town ; the arch has fallen down : it is in all respects similar to tliosc described. 
 
 ACROPOLIS AND TEMPLE. 
 
 The Acropolis occupies all the summit of an elevated and inaccessible rock, composed of large basaltic 
 prisms; it is approached on the north side by a footpath, formed in the midst of the rocks; on all other sides 
 there are precipices, which defended the town from surprises. In the centre of the Acropolis was a temple 
 of the Doric order, which, on account of its archaic character, is distinguished from all known temples of 
 the same style in Italy, Sicily, or Greece. Its columns, short and massive, are less than five diameters high, and 
 have ten flutes. The shaft is much diminished; and the capitals, of which an example may be seen at the 
 Louvre, have an extraordinarily great projection. The temple of Assos was hexastyle, and had thii-tcen 
 columns at the side: the result of this arrangement was that the cella was extremely narrow. The roof was 
 covered with tiles, of which fragments were discovered on digging. 
 
 That which distinguishes this temple from all others is the architrave, which is decorated with a series 
 of bas-reliefs amidst the ruins, and now in the Louvre. 
 
 We may suppose that the iEolians were established in the Troad soon after the time of the Trojan 
 war. Many other migrations took place from Greece to Asia ; but when the Persians conquered the country, 
 the yEolians were widely spread, and their government had already undergone many revolutions. 
 
 Some of the bas-reliefs which we shall describe have much more an Egyptian character than Greek. 
 It is fail' to presume then that the temple was erected in the 5th century before the Christian era. 
 
 The sculpture is in low relief, forming a long band, in the most ancient style, the subjects being easy 
 of explanation. At the extremities of the frieze are two bulls, in the attitude of combat; and in the centre 
 of the architrave two sphinxes seated, face to face. 
 
 One of the bas-reliefs represents the combat of Menelaus and Proteus on the shores of Egypt. 
 Proteus was a king of Egyjit : the Greeks believed that he was a deity, and had the power of assuming any 
 form he pleased. He received Helen, and entertained her during the siege of Troy, until Menelaus compelled 
 him to yield her up. The bas-relief represents Proteus— half man, half fish— endeavouring to escape in the 
 
ASSO!^. 
 
 water. Menelaus, wlio has a quiver on his shoulders, has seized both his hands to prevent his swimmiBg. 
 In the background are Helen and her women, running away in fear/ 
 
 This thoroughly Trojan subject recalls the communication existing between Egypt and the Troad. 
 
 We recognize Menelaus by his quiver and his helmet. Proteus here seems to be endeavouring to 
 shelter himself from the pursuit of Menelaus, while the sea nymphs fly from tlie scene of the combat. 
 
 The other bas-relief represents the nuptials of Pirithons; the people at the feast are lying down, and 
 supported by cushions, receiving cups filled by slaves. 
 
 Pirithous was the son of Ision, king of the Lapithae, and a friend of Theseus. On the day of his 
 wedding with Hippodamia, he invited the Centaurs, who tried to carry away his wife. They were attacked 
 by the Lapithfc, and beaten. The Centaurs in the metopes are represented as coming to the wedding. 
 
 All the sculptures are treated primitively. We may compare them to the paintings found in the tombs 
 of Etruria. This conformity has nothing extraordinary, as it is generally credited that the Etrurians had 
 their origin in Asia. 
 
 The frieze of the temple is decorated with triglyphs, and the sculptured metopes represent harpies. 
 Above, there is nothing wanted to restore the temple to its primitive state, for amongst the ruins many 
 pieces of the pediment are to be found. 
 
 The temple is built of volcanic stone, which forms the foundation of the town. Not a fragment of 
 marble is to be found in any part of it. All the remaining edifices are of tlic highest antiquity. 
 
 Below the Acropolis, and on the first terrace of the town, is a vast theatre, of whicli the seats are 
 still in situ; but the proscenium is in ruins. The ruins of a small temple, and other edifices completely 
 cover the ground. 
 
 The little Byzantine church, which still exists on the Acropolis, has nothing remarkable but the inscrip- 
 tion of the dedicator. It was raised by Athemius, Bishop of Scamandria, which proves that the town 
 existed in the 8th and 9th centuries. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Assos was found a stone much used for scpuLchrcs, anil which was said to 
 have the property of consuming flesh in a short space of time. Hence comes the term sarcophagus. 
 
 Plate I. 
 
 ASSOS.— THE PRONT ELEVATION OF THE TEMPLE. 
 
 This temple is interesting as perhaps the earliest known example of the Greek Doric order. We judge 
 of the age of this order by the proportion of the diameter and of the frieze to the height of the column; 
 also by the depth, projection, and curve of the echinus of the capital. In the temple of Corinth, which was 
 formerly considered the oldest example existing, the column is 4'065 diameters, and the capital has a 
 considerable curve. At Assos the column is 4'250 diameters, but the curve of the capital is the greatest of 
 any known example, and the projection of the abacus is nearly equal to half the upper diameter. In later 
 buildings— such as the Parthenon, the temple at Sunium, and that of Tlieseus — the column is always more 
 than five and a half diameters high, the capital is shallow, the abacus has little projection, and the curve of 
 the echinus is quite flat. In edifices of the Macedonian period — such as the portico of Philip at Athens and 
 the columns of the portico at Budroum — the height of the columns, in proportion to their diameters, is still 
 greater, the capital shallower, and the profile of the columns almost a straiglit line. 
 
 I'laie II. 
 
 DETAILS OP THE ORDER OP THE TEMPLE. 
 
 One peculiarity of this order is, that there is only one upper member to the cornice, a corona without 
 i)x% -amal ojinatium, and that there are no gultcc, but blocks in their place; from which we may infer that the 
 use of gidlm was a later refinement. The sculptures on the frieze are interesting as being amongst the most 
 archaic representations of animals and human beings. 
 
 As we have before stated, this temple was probably erected iu the 5th century before the Christian era. 
 
 ' Lucian gives tlie foUowing dialogue between Menelaus and Pro. — Menelaus, it is novertiieless tme. 
 
 Proteus : — Men.—\ know it very well, for I am a witness of it myself; but, to 
 
 jUen. — I do not think it worthy of admiration, Protens, that a sea-god, be plain with you, I beKeve there ls deception iu it, and that you are 
 
 such as you are, should transform himself into water, or eyen into a only a mean juggler. 
 
 plant; but to become fire, that I cannot at all undei-atand : to be turned Pro. — What deception can there be in things that are so manifest and 
 
 into a lion may be better tolerated. certain ? 
 
DESCRTrTJOX OF THE TLATES, 
 
 APOLLO BRANCHID^. 
 
 rpniS) the greatest of all temples, was erected by Daplmis of Miletus and Pcoiiius of Eplicaiis. Peonius 
 J- lived in the reign of Alexander, and was the architect chosen to eomplete the Temple of Diana at Ephesus. 
 0]i account of its large dimensions, the Temple of Apollo never was roofed in. It was a place of resort for the 
 whole Pagan world, being the site of the most celebrated oracle in Asia, and the most renowned in the world 
 after that at Delphi. 
 
 In consequence of the nnmerons assemblages of people who collected here for worship, the pcribolus was 
 of great extent ; it was also filled with fine trees. No traces of the peribolus' wall now exist ; but the whole 
 course of the Sacred Way, which led from the port, a distance of about two miles, is distinctly visible. It was 
 lined by ranks of seated figures and sphinxes in the earliest and most archaic style of art. Several of them 
 were removed and brought to the British Museum by the Budrum expedition. The first travellers who 
 visited these ruins in modern times found them completely overthrown. Spon and Whcler give a skcteh of 
 the temple : a small part of the cella existed, with one of the nnmcrous pilasters, of which we found the 
 magnificent capitals, but all the rest of the temple was a heap of ruins. When it fell into decay we are not 
 certain, but we know it existed in the time of Julian, for he went there to consult the oracle before his campaign 
 against the Persians. 
 
 THE PRESENT STATE OP THE TEMPLE. 
 
 The temple was situated on the promontory of Poseidon, opposite the island of Samos, on slightly undulatiug 
 ground, sloping gently to the sea on every side; it is about cqui-distant from two harbours, being about two 
 miles from each, six miles from the extremity of the promontory, and twenty-two miles from Miletus. On 
 account of its great dimensions and its elevated situation, it must have been distinctly visible from the sea 
 several leagues on both sides. Three columns only remain standing, and these are conspicuous enough to servo 
 as landmarks to the mariners coasting in tlie ncigiibonrhood, 
 
 A Greek village has been erected on one side of the temple, as the facility of obtaining stones from the ruins 
 was an inducement to buUd there. 
 
 But the walls of the temple have not been encroached upon yet, except at the cast end, where a ■windmill has 
 been erected on the heap of ruins. Tlie mass of ruins is enormous, as the wall stones of the cella now remain for 
 the most part where they fell. The full length of the building was 306 ft. 6 in. by 161 ft. 5 in. It was decastyle, 
 dipteral, and hyp;ethral. This may be surmised from the fact that the heap of ruins is hoUow in the middle 
 and not filled up, which would have been the case had it been roofed in. The wall stones of the cella, which lie in 
 heaps, measure on an average five or six feet in length by two or three in breadth, and weigh two or three tons. 
 On account of their great weight, few of them have been distui'bed. Two columns, with a portion of the architrave 
 resting on them, remain on the north side, and one column of the outer range on the south. This latter has 
 never been fluted. At the west end there are six bases in position, so that the size of the portico can easily bo 
 determined. 
 
 (Prom the Antiquities of Ionia, Pt. I.) 
 
 When Chandler visited the temple, there were no habitations nearer than Ura, about two miles distant, 
 on the road towards MUetns, now called Palatia; the modern village surrounding the temple having been 
 deserted. It appears to be reviving; and the diminution of the ancient materials is unfortunately the 
 consequence of its increasing prosperity. In the interval of a few months, which occm-red between the two 
 visits made by the gentlemen of the mission, a manifest dilapidation had taken place. Part of the wall of the 
 pronaos had been destroyed, and a beautiful terebinth-tree, the boast of the village, cut down. A windmill 
 usurped the place of this sacred object, in the construction of which many of the leas massive blocks, 
 particularly those enriched with sculpture, were employed, and some converted into cement used in building it. 
 The two Corinthian capitals were totally destroyed, and some of the statues had been grievously defaced. 
 The evil was unfortunately progressive; and nothing appeared likely to cheek the gradual, yet certain 
 destruction of the temple, but one of those visitations which, in Asia Minor, sometimes depopulate a whole 
 country and convert the busy haunt of man to a solitary waste. 
 
APOI.LU BRANCH1D.45. 
 
 41 
 
 Tlate III. 
 
 VIEW OF THE COLUMNS OE THE TEMPLE. 
 
 In the foreground arc the two fluted columns, with their arcliitrave. Tho bases are completely buried, 
 and also parts of the shafts; but at the west end of the temple arc several bases with their mouldings entire: 
 these measure four feet to the top of the upper fillet. 
 
 The column in the distance is one of the inner row, and has been left unfluted. Erom this wc may 
 infer that the temple was never finished. 
 
 Tlate IV. 
 
 PLAN AND ELEVATION OF THE TEMPLE OF APOLLO BRANCIIIDJE. 
 
 The darker parts of the plan show those portions of the walls and columns still remaining in situ., though 
 for the most part concealed by fallen stones. Tliere is a considerable difference between the plan as given 
 by Tcxier and that published in the " Ionian Antiquities." According to the former, the building measures 
 on the upper step 362'258 ft. by 167'08i ft. ; according to the engraving in the latter, it is 3'143 ft. longer and 
 2"720 ft. narrower. 
 
 The temple had a double peristyle. There were ten columns iu the outer row of the front and twenty-one 
 at the sides. 
 
 There were pilasters on the internal face of the cella wall at the sides and at the west end. 
 
 M. Tesier has restored the interior by placing a row of corresponding columns at the sides and end : 
 probably the temple was hypfethral, the statue being placed in a recess at the east end. 
 
 The pronaos was 'iT'OO-i ft. deep; behind it was the Opisihodomos, where the gifts were exhibited to the 
 public behind metal gratings. 
 
 Tlie outer row of columns appears to have been "unfinished, as that column which is now standing, 
 belonging to the row, is unfluted. The two inner columns on the north side are fluted. 
 
 In the elevation the parts restored conjecturally arc the pediment, cornice, and frieze : for no portion of 
 their members could be discovered above ground, and it would rcc[uire extensive excavations to disinter them. 
 
 Flate V. 
 
 DETAILS OF THE ORDER. 
 
 Fig, 1. — Half-plan of a column taken below the capital. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Side elevation of the capital and section of arcliitrave-stone. 
 
 Fig. 3. — Front elevation of capital. 
 
 Fig. 4. — Elevation of base. 
 
 Fig. 5.— Section through balteus of volute. 
 
 Fig. 6. — Section through ovolo of capital. 
 
 Fig. 7.— Section through volute. 
 
 Fig. 8. — Elevation of entire column to a small scale. 
 
 Fig. 9, — Elevation of the internal face of arcliitrave-stone. 
 
 Plales VI. and VII. 
 
 PILASTER CAPITALS OF THE INTERIOR. 
 
 These are lying on the ground on the north side, and have been comparatively little injured. The 
 sculpture, figures, and ornaments, are of the finest pci-iod of Greek art, and well calculated to convey an idea 
 of the pristine magnificence of the edifice. 
 
 PI. VII. Figs. 1 and 2. — Front and side view of a similar pilaster. 
 
 „ Figs. 3 and 4. — Outline of volute and diagram, explaining the principle on which it was constructed. 
 
43 
 
 DESCEIPTION OF THE PLA.TES. 
 
 Plate VIII. 
 
 Tig. 1. — Capital of pQaster. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Gi'ifliiis from the internal frieze. 
 
 Fig. 3. — Seated figure from the Sacred Way. 
 
 riate IX. 
 
 FRAGMENT OF SCULPTURE, BRANCUID^E. 
 
 This cxqiiisite morceau lies in the midst of tlie hollow between the walls at the west end, near the recess 
 occupied hy the statue. It is difficult to form a conjecture as to its original position, as its large dimensions, 
 6 ft. 6 in. by 4 ft., preclude the idea of its having formed a capital or similar architectural member. 
 
 A I Z A N I.' 
 
 npHE temple stands on a quadrilateral terrace, the front of which is adorned by twenty-two arches, with a huge 
 J- flight of steps in the centre. At present, the easing of these arcades no longer exists, except here and 
 there at the angles. It consisted of slabs of white marble. In the centre of each pier is a pilaster, supporting 
 an entablature running the whole length of the terrace. The side of this temeiios was supported by a thick waU, 
 a part of which still remains at the north-west angle. Beneath the cella of the temple there is a large subterranean 
 chamber, with a semicircular vault. It is approached by means of a staircase in the posticum, and lighted by 
 two openings under the surhase of the cella wall in the posl/c/im. 
 
 The style of the architecture is Ionic, of the Grnsco-Roman period. Twelve columns remain standing on 
 the north side, and sis colonms on the west. It is evident from an inspection of the ruins that the temple was 
 octastyle and pseudo- dipteral, having fifteen columns at the side. There were steps on all sides of it. 
 
 The cella is so well preserved, that all the internal arrangements can be traced. The whole of the north 
 wall, a part of the south, and tlic whole of the posticum, are entire. The pronaos terminates in the mitcc, between 
 which stood ten columns. There arc no traces of the doorway. The capitals of the antm arc Composite. In the 
 left angle of the temple is a door, which communicated with a small cell that had also an opening into the 
 posticmn. This may have been used by the priests for the service of the temple. The two columns between the 
 antes of the posticum arc still standing ; they have Composite capitals. These columns have no plinths, but all 
 the other columns have square plinths. The interior wall of the cella has no ornament, and the sui'facc of the 
 marble has been much damaged by a fire kindled by the Turks within the cella for the purpose of destroying the 
 walls, and thus bringing to light the concealed treasures which they ignorantly imagined to exist there. The 
 shafts of the columns are monoliths. Their height, in proportion to their diameter, is greater than in most 
 examples of the Ionic order, but resembles much those of the Erectheum. The capital equals in effect those of the 
 best temples of Ionia. The base has the seotia separated by a double fillet and a large torus, with an 
 elliptical cnrve, as at Priene and Teos. 
 
 The order of the periholus was Corinthian ; many of the columns still remain lying near the spots where 
 they formerly stood. 
 
 The temple and its enclosure appear to have been erected at one period, probably about the 2nd century of 
 the Christian era. 
 
 The theatre is situate in the soiith part of the town ; it is partly excavated in the side of a hill, facing the 
 south-west. It is upon the Greek plan, that is to say, the side wall of the cavea forms an augle with the 
 face of the scene, instead of being parallel with it, as in the Roman theatres. Still, it was probably erected 
 after the Roman conquest, as we see the same plan preserved in other theatres, which we know to be Grajco- 
 Roman. The interior face of the proscenium was decorated with six sets of coupled Ionic columns, 
 supporting a rich entablature. The lower range of seats only remain ; those of the upper range have all been 
 removed. 
 
 ' Abridged fi'oiu Texier'a Ae'ie Mineure. 
 
Littlc is known about the history of Aizani. Strabo mentions it as one of the principal towns of that 
 division of Phrygia called Epictctus, but gives no details about it. Herodian, cited by Stephen of Byzantium,' 
 states that Aizani was founded by Azau, the son of Tantalus. 
 
 According to a passage in Pausanias,* it would appear that the Aizanians came originally from Arcadia. 
 " Areas," says he, " had three sons, Azan, Aphidas, and Elatus, who divided between them the kingdom of 
 their father. That part which fell to the lot of the first received the name of Azania, whence it is said issued 
 the race of colonists who established themselves in Phrygia, near the cave called Steunos and the rirver Peucella." 
 He adds:^ "These Phrygians, who dwell upon the borders of the river Peucella, and wlio are the aborigines of 
 Azania, show the grotto called Steunos, which is circular aiid of great height. They have built there a temple 
 to the mother of the gods, where she has a statue." 
 
 This town is comprised in the list of the bislioprics of Pacatian Phrygia, represented at the fifth council 
 of Constantinople. 
 
 Flate X. 
 
 GENEEAL VIEW OF THE RUINS, 
 
 Plate XI. 
 
 RESTORATION OF THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER. 
 
 This restoration was made by M. Texier from evidence remaining on the spot. Thote could be no doubt 
 about the size and form of the temple, as the walls of the cella were standing, and several columns of the fronts 
 and flanks. As to the peribolus, it must evidently have bad a double colonnade round it, for four columns of an 
 outer row were found in situ-, and a pilaster of the inner row. The lemenos was of great extent ; its dimensions, 
 which were given by the terrace walls, were 520 feet by 485 feet : thus it was almost square in plan. 
 
 In front of the terrace there ai-e a series of arcades, mthin wliich were probably statues. A broad 
 flight of steps led up to the platform, in the centre of which stood the magnificent temple, surrounded by its 
 colonnade. 
 
 No doubt the temenos was planted with trees, and contained numerous statues ; and here and there were scats, 
 hexedrcB and triclinia, in positions similar to those shown on the plan. 
 
 Plate XII. 
 PLAN OF THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER. 
 
 Kg. 1.— This is an interesting example of a pseudo-dipteral plan, exhibiting considerable originality in the 
 management of the double row of columns in front, in the peculiarity of the posticum, and in the existence of the 
 vaulted chamber in the substructiire. The darker tint shows those walls and columns that exist. There was a 
 similar vault under the temple in the acropolis at Pergamus. In both eases the vault was probably used by the 
 priests for purposes of deception, and also as a treasury. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Transverse section through the substructure of the cclla, showing the vaulted chamber aud the 
 method employed for lighting it from the floor of the peristyle. 
 
 Plate XIII. 
 
 TEMPLE OF JUPITER— ELEVATION OF POSTICUM. 
 
 This elevation is given in preference to that of the pronaos, because it shows the peculiar arrangement of the 
 two doors, one leading into the temple, the other into the vaulted chamber beneath, by means of a staircase. 
 The somewhat unusual height of the columns in proportion to their diameter, together with the lightness of the 
 frieze, produces an appearance of elegance which is not common in other examples. The consoles, which occupy 
 the place of bas-reliefs in the frieze, give great relief to the composition ; they consist of volutes, supported by 
 acanthus-leaves. 
 
 ' Steplieu (if Byziintirtin, voce Azanoi. '' Book vni. ch. +. " Book s. ch. 33. 
 
DESCEimOX OF THE TLATES. 
 
 Flate XIV. 
 
 SECTION THROUGH THE PERISTYLE OE THE TEMPLE. 
 
 The aiTangemcnt of the cross-beams, lacimaria, and Corinthian coliimns of the posticnm, is shown in the 
 section. There are few temples existing in which the details of the ceiling esist in so perfect a condition. The 
 only examples that I remember to have seen are the Temple of Theseus at Athens, and the smaller temple at 
 Balbec. 
 
 Fkdes XV. a?id XVI. 
 DETAILS OE THE ORDER OF TEE TEMPLE. 
 
 The arcMtraye here is imusually deep, and its moulding of great projection. The ornaments of the moulding 
 are similar to those of the Temple of Bacchus at Teos. The frieze is enriched by an elegant ornament of acanthus- 
 leaves and consoles, which give a fine effect of light and shade. The cornice, though rich, is too shallow to be in 
 good proportion to the lower members. The capital has an ornament in the hollow of the cushion, somewhat 
 similar to that in the capitals of the temple of Apollo Smintheus. 
 
 At the top of each flute there is carved a small vase in the hollow. The mouldings of the base are not 
 sufficiently bold to be in good style. On the whole, this, though a rich and interesting example, is not a specimen 
 of a good period of art. 
 
 Tlaie XVII. 
 
 CAPITALS OF ANT^ AND CORNICE OF CELLA. 
 
 Fig. 1. — Elevation of pilaster, capital, and of the cornice which runs round the cclla. 
 
 Figs, 2 and 3.— Plan and section of capital. 
 
 Figs. 4i and 5. — Sections of Ionic capital. 
 
 Figs. and 7.— Elevation and section of cross-beams. 
 
 J^late XVIII. 
 DETAILS OF WALL OF CELLA. 
 Fig. 1. — Architrave of wall of cella. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Base-mould, cornice, and fret ornament from the wall of cella. 
 
 Plate XIX. 
 FLAN OF THEATRE. 
 
 Plate XX. 
 
 DETAILS OF THE ORDER OF THE THEATRE. 
 
 The proportions of tliis order vary from those of the temple, the architrave and cornice being shallow and 
 the frieze deep. 
 
 The capital is a unique specimen of Ionic, but rather heavy in efi'ect. 
 
 Plate XXL 
 
 DETAILS OF THE ORNAMENTS OF THE THEATRE. 
 
 Fig. 1. — Plan of the Ionic capital. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Diagram of volute. 
 
 Fig. 3.— Half-plan of column. 
 
 Fig. 4. — Section of an architrave-stone. 
 
 Fig. 5. — Plan of the cornice. 
 
 Figs. 6, 7, 8, — Plan, elevation, and section of pilaster capital. 
 
A NO YE A. 
 
 45 
 
 ANCYRA. 
 
 INTERESTING as the Augusteum of Ancyra is as a work of art, it is rendered still more so by the numerous 
 valuable inscriptions remaining on its walls, one of which gires a complete account of the ceremonies of the 
 dedication of a temple. 
 
 The ruins of the temple stand in the middle of the Roman town. The two side walls of the cella, 
 with the antes that terminate them, are all that remain of the building. These walls are constructed of great 
 blocks of marble, put together with bronze cramps. Tlie capitals of the pilasters have winged figures of Victory 
 in the midst of foliage: from these branches of acanthns extend round the cclla wall externally, forming a 
 most elegant frieze. The front bad six Corinthian columns, with entablature and pediment : the columns at the 
 sides have disappeared, but it is easy to ascertain from the arrangement of the cella wall that the building was 
 hexastyle and peripteral. The doorway leading from the pronaos has a rich architrave and a cornice supported by 
 large consoles. The interior of the building was very simple, ornamented by a band of carved fruits and flowers. 
 Above this band the wall was quite smooth. To the right, on entering the cclbi, are to be seen two small 
 round arched windows cut into tbe wall, to admit light into the temple when it was converted into a Christian 
 church.' 
 
 A mosque was erected around the church in the 18th century : this has tended iu a gi'eat measure to preserve 
 it from further destruction. 
 
 Ancyra, the capital of Galatia, was from the earliest times a town of some importance, but it was 
 especially renowned in Roman times, when several public buildings were erected, of which there aru but 
 few remains. 
 
 According to Pausanias, Ancyra was founded by Midas, son of Gordius, and the anchor which was to be 
 seen in the Temple of Jupiter was supposed from the time of the Greek historians to have been discovered by 
 that prince. 
 
 ApoUonius, the historian of Caria, gives another origin to the anchor of Ancyra. The Gauls, immediately 
 after they arrived in Asia, had to fight Mithridates and Ariobarzanes. Ptolemy also sent against them an army 
 of Ecryptians, who were repulsed and beaten to their boats. The Gauls carried away with them the anchors 
 of tbe enemy's vessels as trepHes of their victory, and placed them in their town, which they called Ancyra. 
 But even from the time of Alexander, tbe city of Ancyra existed under the same name. The king of Macedon 
 coming to Gordium, and marcliing towards Syria, stopped before this town to receive the deputies from the 
 Papblagonians, and to discover how they were disposed towards him. Under the successors of Alexander, Ancyra 
 was subject to Antiochus III,, who had the assistance of tbe Galatians at the battle of Magnesia, 
 
 The name of this capital is mentioned for the first time in Roman historians with reference to the campaign 
 of Marius. Strabo speaks of it only as a fortress of the Galati. 
 
 At. first the city of Ancyra occupied the summit of a bill, which extends from the east to the west. This 
 bill is a large volcanic rock, tbe sides of which are very abrupt. The acropolis crowns the rock, and tbe walls 
 descend halfway down tbe side. To the north, the river Euguri defends the shores of the mountains, and 
 running towards the west, empties itself into the Sangarius. 
 
 In the course of time this country followed the fate of the Romans, in the wars which they had to 
 sustain against Mithridates. Pompey gave this kingdom to bis ally Dcjotarus : and tbe totrarchy of Galatia was 
 established at that time. 
 
 After the death of Dejotarus, Amyntas, his secretary, received from Antony the title of king, and this 
 dignity was confirmed by Augustus. Amyntas died in Cilicia, 25 years B.C. His son Pylsemeues did not, how- 
 ever, obtain the kingdom, hut Galatia was formed into a single province together with Lycaonia. 
 
 It is from this epoch that the brilliant period of Ancyra as a Ptomau capital commenced. The three capitals 
 of tbe tetrarcby of the Galatians were, Tavium, Pessinunte, and Ancyra; the last-named town received tbe 
 name of Sebaste, in honour of the emperor Augustus. Under Nero, it obtained tbe title of Metropolis, and tbe 
 inhabitants received the name of Tectosagi Angusti, which is found on tlieir monuments. 
 
 Ancyra itself was called Sebaste Ancyra of the Tectosagi. The symbol of the town was an anchor. 
 Tbe coins, as well as the monuments, show that the same sign was preserved under the Roman emperors. 
 Tbe Galatian towns of eastern Phrygia were the first in Asia which added to tbeit- primitive name a 
 Roman siu-name ; and this honour only served to tighten the bonds wliieh united them to the Ciesars. The 
 situation of these towns of Galatia was happily placed on the grand road from Ryzantium to Cilicia and Syria 
 towards the south, and in tbe direction of Erzeroum in Armenia on the road to Persia towards the north ; 
 
 ' Abi-i(iged frum Texier's Asie Jlineure. ' See Texier and Pullan's Byzmtim Architecture, p. 90, 
 
 N 
 
DESORIPTrON (.)K THE TLATES, 
 
 they therefore soon became the centre of the great commerce between the East and the West, and the jioint of 
 junction for the Roman legions during their march across Asia. In the time of Augustus, Ancyra received several 
 benefactions from the emperor, who permitted them, as he bad before permitted the inhabitants of Pei'gamus, to 
 erect a temple to him while he was still living. 
 
 "When the Romans had reduced Galatia to a province, they executed important works and erected immense 
 establishments in their newly-conquered territory. The city walls were prolonged to the plain, and the quarters 
 situated on the mountains fortified anew, in order to form a vast citadel. There are still to be scon in the ])lain 
 some foundations which appear to have belonged to hot baths. These ruins are situated beyond the modern town. 
 The double enclosure, tlanked with towers, exists even now; but the different sieges which, the town has 
 undergone, have done much damage, and several parts of the walls have been repaired with the debris of 
 ancient altars and sepulchral stones. A vast subterranean passage, w^hich existed under tlic platform of the castle, 
 served to hold the engines of war. 
 
 According to tlie system of defence in use at tliat epoch, the citadel occupies the most prominent point in 
 the town. The walls have no external ditch ; they follow the undulations of the rock, and rise thus in some 
 places several hundred metres above the level of the plain. The enclosure of the acropolis was occupied by 
 private habitations, and in the MidtUe Ages the Christians constructed there a church, which the Turks have always 
 respected. The finest edifices constructed by the Romans were in the lower part of the town. An inscription, 
 which still exists, tells us that Ancyra had a hippodrome, baths, aqueducts, and several temples. If one may 
 judge from the debris which one sees on all sides, the magnificence of these edifices yields in nothing to those of 
 Rome itself. The Greek artists employed by the conquerors gave a stylo of finish and elegance which the Italian 
 monuments do not possess. 
 
 FUilr XXII. 
 VIEW OE THE TEMPLE OE AUGUSTUS. 
 
 The view is taken from the entrance to the temple, and represents the ancient pronaos destitute of the 
 columns wbicii stood in front of the cella. To tlie left stands the minaret of the mosque, at the foot of which 
 is a tiirbe, or sepulchral chapel of the imaums. 
 
 The spectator is supposed to be looking from the street, the intervening wall being removed. 
 
 riatr XXIII. 
 PLAN OP THE TEMPLE OE AUGUSTUS. 
 
 Ilere, tlie plan of the temple is shown amidst modern bouses, with the colonnade restored. In the present 
 day there are only the two parallel walls wbicb formed tlie sides of the cella and pronaos remaining. The front part 
 of the building is still standing, but the wall at the end of tlic cella has been divided, and a square enclosure, 
 forming part of a chapel, has been erected between the two antcB of the posticum. 
 
 These are sufficient data for the restoration, as the base of the anice gives the size of the columns, and the 
 positions of the two columns of the pronaos give the general iatercolumniation of the portico, which we thus find 
 to have had six columns. There were thirteen columns at the sides, according to the usual arrangement of 
 bcxastyle temples. 
 
 The rectangular buildings within the cella are two small magazines belonging to the mosque; the rest of the site 
 is occupied by a cemetery. 
 
 To the right of the building is a group of modern bouses. The existence of these would make it difficult 
 tu I'xcavatc in their neighbourhood. 
 
 'file earth had so accumulated in the pronaos, as to cover half the Latin inscription, so that it was 
 formerly impossible to copy it. It has, however, been recently carefully copied by order of the Emperor Napoleon. 
 
 South of the temple stands the mosque of Hadji Bairam, which was built at an angle with the cella, on 
 account of the necessity of facing the Kaaba of Mecca. 
 
 Plate XXIV. 
 
 ELEVATION OP PRONAOS, AND SECTION THROUGH NAGS OF TEMPLE OP AUGUSTUS. 
 
 Pig. 1 represents tbc door of the temple, with the two mitiB entire. The cella wall consists of twenty- 
 one courses of white marble, above which is a rich frieze. A piece of architrave, still remaining, shows that 
 the arrangement was similar to that of other peripteral temples. 
 
 Pig. 2 shows the interior of the naos. This part of the building is seldom found entire in ancient 
 ruins, but here it is more perfect than usual. 
 
iU'HRUDTSJAS. 
 
 In the interior there was a simple surbase of rusticated courses fifteen in height. Above these was a cornice, 
 forming a species of tablet. Above this, the wall was smooth, and probably had been ornamented with 
 paintings. 
 
 In the pronaos to the right is the celebrated inscription in six equal columns. The windows were formod 
 in more recent times, when the temple was converted into a church. 
 
 Plate XXV. 
 
 CAPITALS OF PILASTER, WITH A PORTION OF THE FRIEZE. 
 
 Fig. 1. — The character of the foliage of the capital shows clearly that the order of the temple was Corintliian. 
 There is a single row of acanthus-flowers above the astragal, and above them a genius with extended wings, 
 crowned with laurel. This elegant figure is clad in a chlamys, The frieze of the cella ranges with the 
 capitals, and affords a beautiful example of ornamental foliage. 
 
 Fig. 2. — The base is Attic, and ranges with the base-mould of the cella. The cavetto of this moulding is 
 ornamented with palm-leaves quite of a Greek character. 
 
 Fig. 3. — Section of base-mould. 
 
 Fig. 4. — Band ornamented with Greek fret. 
 
 A P H R D I S I A S.' 
 
 TN many of the towns of Asia the temples were converted into elu)r(;lies by slight niotliiication. 
 
 This was the case with the Temple of Venus at Aphrodisias, as we have stated in another work f and 
 to this fact is owing the preservation of the remains. The temple was octast.yle and peripteral, of the Ionic 
 order, equalling in style the best buildings in Asia Minor. When it was converted into a church, the 
 columns in the front were removed and placed so as to range with those at the sides. A hemicycle was erected 
 forming the apse, and an esteraal wall was carried round the building at some distance from the external 
 range of columns, so as to form a nave with double aisles on each side. In the present day many of these 
 columns are still standing, some of them entire, others to the height of several feet above the ground, in 
 two parallel lines, containing originally eighteen columns each. In most there were originally but fifteen on each 
 side. The architecture is Grieco-Homan. Upon the columns there arc tablets with inscriptions, but they 
 afford no clue to the date of the edifice, except that they show that it was erected during tlie Roman 
 dominion. 
 
 The temple stood in the centre of a large pcribolus, which had coupled columns of tiic Corinthian order, 
 supporting pediments, alternatively curved and triangular. Between the columns were niches with pilasters. 
 
 Before the temple stood a range of small Corinthian columns forming a separation between the outer 
 and inner tcmenos, and in front of these were pedestals, having upon them the bases of other columns ; to 
 the right and left of these were two large marble basins, and in front statues of recumbent lions. 
 
 There appeared to he no traces of porticos nor residences of priests within the enclosure. 
 
 Aplu'odisias is situated in a fertile plan in the neighbourhood of Mount Cadmus. The town was 
 founded by the Lcleges, and was at first called Lelegopolis. We find also upon its earliest coins and 
 inscriptions the name of Plai'asa. The worship of Venus, which was celebrated here, gained it considerable 
 repute in the times of the emperors. When the Christian religion spread through the province, not only 
 the worship of the goddess, but the name of the town, was suppressed, and the city of Venus became Stauropolis, 
 or the City of the Cross, and under the Empei'or Leo 1. it was made the capital of Caria. 
 
 The right of asylum was one of the chief privileges enjoyed by the Temple of Venus in this place. 
 This was originally limited to the temenos; but when Mithridates was master of the province, he extended 
 the boundary, and Antony doubled it. When this privilege was abolished in the reign of Tiberius, the 
 citizens made strenuous efforts to have it re-established, and finally succeeded, as we learn from an in- 
 scription sfill existing. 
 
 Abridged irim Texifr's Ask Mhiexre. 
 
 " See Bi/zantine Ardiiteclure, ^<y Texier and Pulkn, p. 89, 
 
48 
 
 UKSCRfPTTON OP THE PLATES, 
 
 Plate XXVI. 
 
 GENERAL VIEW OE THE RUINS. 
 
 The mass of wall in the foreground is the apse, which was added when the temple was coavertcd into 
 a church. The two distant columns of the Corinthian order are those still standing in the jieribolus, which 
 belonged to the colonnade in front of the teniple. 
 
 Flate XXVII. 
 
 PLAN or THE TEMPLE OE VENUS. 
 
 The original plan of the temple and its enclosure is here shown, as well as the alterations it underwent 
 when it was converted into a Christian place of worship. In order to avoid confusion, the outer wall of 
 the aisles is indicated only hy faint lines. 
 
 Phffe XXVIII. 
 
 ELEVATION OE THE TEMPLE. 
 
 The proportions of this elevation are excellent. The tahlets on the columns bear inscriptions with the 
 names of donors to the sanctuary. 
 
 A similar arrangement is to he observed at Euromus. 
 
 Plate XXIX. 
 
 THE IONIC ORDER OF THE TEMPLE. 
 
 Pig. 1. — Elevation of a column of the peristyle. 
 
 Pig. 2. — Capital and base enlarged. 
 
 Fig. 3.— Vertical section through the volute. 
 
 Fig. i. — Side elevation of the capital, and section throui^Ii tlic architrave- 
 Pig. 5. — Elevation of a portion of the architrave. 
 Pig. 6. — Section through the balteus. 
 Pig. 7. — Capital of pilaster. 
 Fig. S. — nalf-i)l;ni of tlu^ capital. 
 
 Phiie XXX. 
 
 PRINCIPAL ORDER OP THE PERIBOLUS. 
 
 This beautiful example of the Corinthian order shows that the peribolus was no less elaborately 
 decorated than the temple itself. The proportions of the columns arc good, and tbc capital is ornamented 
 with acanthus-leaves of very elegant character. The architrave has three faces with a large enriched bead 
 on each. The cornice is convex in form, a proof that this part was of rather late date, probably of the 
 time of Triijan ; it has a. bold scroll ornament. The cornice is unusually rich. The dentils are small, a 
 sign of late date. 
 
 Plale XXXI. 
 SMALL ORDER OF THE PERIBOLUS. 
 
 The columns represented in this plate are those which stand on pedestal in front of tlic temple, 
 apparently for the jjurpose of separating the inner enclosure of the temple from the temenos. 
 
 Pig. 1. — Elevation of colurans with their architrave. These columns are nine diameters in hciglit ; tlie 
 intereolumniatious are three and a half diameters. The proportions of the entablature are not good, as the 
 members of the cornice are too insignificant and the dentils too small. 
 
 Pig. 2.— The order enlarged. The capitals have a stiinteil appearance in consequence of the tops of the 
 upper row of acanthus-leaves being too close to those of the lower row. 
 
 Eig. 3. — Panels under architrave-stone. 
 
ASPENDUS, 
 
 49 
 
 rigs. 4 and 5. — Christian inscriptions on the imposts of the doorway of the temple. Eig. 4 shows that the 
 temple was converted into the church of the Ascension ; it reads ' kvahri-i^is tou Kug/ou (the Ascension of the Lord). 
 Fig. 5 is as follows: — Kil^is fioiifl^ t(o u-m Sou^w Ma^oag)! (Lord succonr thy servant Masdares).' 
 
 ]?late XXXII. 
 DETAILS OP THE PEEIBOLUS. 
 
 Pig. 1. — Elevation of the wall of the periholus. The large Corinthian coliTmns supporting the pediment 
 tended to relieve the long line of wall enclosing the periholus. The details of this order are given in Plate 30. 
 
 Pig. 2. — Elevation of pediments of small niches. These niches, placed in the intervals between the coupled 
 Corinthian columns, no douht held statues. 
 
 Pig. 3. — Under side of the architrave-stone of niche. These two drawings show liow elahorately decorated 
 were all the accessory parts of the temple. 
 
 Pig. 4. — Upper mouldings of the hascment. 
 
 Pig. 5. — Lacunaria on the under side of larger architrave. 
 
 ASPENDUS." 
 
 rpHE ruins of Aspendus are spread over a mountain situated at the extremity of the plain of Perga. 
 J- Amongst them maybe found examples of most of the cdiliccs which decorated a Greek town; but these ai'o 
 all surpassed by the theatre, which is the finest and best-preserved building of its kind existing in Asia 
 Minor. Nothing is wanting to restore it to its original state but those parts of it that were originally in wood. 
 
 The fa9ade of the proscenium is built of large stones with rough-hewn faces. There are three doors in it. 
 On the first story is a range of round arched windows. The whole is surmounted by a range of perforated 
 consoles, which served to sustain the masts which supported the velarium. 
 
 On each side of the fagadcj which projects, are two wings, with a large door in each, leading to the 
 orchestra. Above these doors arc inscriptions in Greek and Latin; reading thus: — "To the gods of the 
 country and to the house of the emperors, Acurtius Crispinns Arruntianns and Acurtius Auspicatus Titinnianns 
 erected this edifice conformably to the will of Acurtius Orispinus." 
 
 The words domui Attgustorum show that the theatre was built during the reign of Antoninus and 
 Lucius Verus. 
 
 Another inscription in the interior gives the name of the architect: — "Tlic senate and the people have 
 honoured Zeno, the architect of the theatre and of the works in the town, by erecting a statue in the theatre 
 and by giving him a garden situated near the Hippodrome." 
 
 A large hall for the actors extends the full length of the scene ; above it were two other rooms, one for 
 the first story, the other for the machinery. At the end of these rooms are two staircases ' the full height of 
 the three stories. 
 
 The front of the proscenium was decorated by two orders of coupled columns standing upon pedestals, 
 two sets between each door. That on the ground-fioor is Ionic, with a white marble entablature, ornamented 
 witli tragic masks and the heads of victims. Tlie upper order is Corinthian, with a frieze adorned witli 
 wreaths. The cornice has modillions, and the caissons have tragic masks. 
 
 Each set of coupled columns is surmounted by a pediment, alternately round and angular. The centre 
 of the colonnade has a large pediment, in the tympanum of which there is the figure of a naked woman with 
 long flowing hau-, rising out of the cup of a tlower, and holding wreaths in both hands. Tliis figure is called 
 by tlio T-aiks Bal-kiz, or the Girl of Honey; and fi-om it is derived the name of the neighbouring village. 
 
 The seats are all in situ. There are twenty rows in the first precinction, and eighteen in the second. 
 Staircases lead to the diazomata, and there are two large vomitories leading to the front row of seats. The 
 upper gallery surmounting the seats is quite intact; it has an arcade of fifty-three arches. 
 
 On each side of the orchestra is a sort of bos for consuls, or other great personages. 
 
 The pulpitmn is massive and of great extent. 
 
 ' ScR Byzantine Architecture, Tiy Tpxier and rullnii, p. 90. 
 
 ' Ahridged fnim Texier's Adr Mineum. 
 
51) 
 
 DESOHtPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 In the wall above the scene are to be seen the holes into which the timbers oi' the roof that eoverpiJ 
 the scene fitted. 
 
 The side wall of the cavca is parallel to the scene, as in most lioman theatres. 
 
 Aspendus, a colony of Argos, was one of the oldest towns in Pampliylia. It is mentioned in the 
 Bth century before the Christian era. In 391 B.O., Thrasybnlus, having been charged to compel the Asiatic 
 Greek towns to acknowledge the authority of Athens, disembarked near Aspendus to levy contributions, when 
 the Aspendians sallied out in the night and killed him in his tent. 
 
 Alexander besieged and took the town, because the inhabitants would not consent to give up some 
 horses they had stolen from the king of Persia. 
 
 "We learu from a sentence of Cicero addressed to Verres, that Aspendus had cultivated the arts with great 
 success. He says: — "Aspendus is, as you know, an ancient town of Pampliylia; it was full of very valuable 
 statues. I will not say that such and such a statue was taken away; I will assert that you, Verres, have 
 removed all the statues from the temples and public places; they were placed upon chariots and carried 
 out of the town." Cicero mentions the lute-player of Aspendus, the celebrated statue which Verres placed in 
 his own apartments. 
 
 Phftc XXXIII. 
 
 INTERIOR OF THE THEATRE. 
 
 This engraving gives a good idea of the condition of this magnificent theatre, which is in a better state of 
 preservation than any other in Asia Minor. The columns and roof of the scene alone are wanting to restore 
 it to its original state. 
 
 Flale XXXIV. 
 
 EXTERIOR OP THE THEATRE. 
 
 It will be seen that the exterior of this remarkable edifice is perfectly unadorned, and that it is only 
 striking from tlie massiveness of its construction and its state of preservation. The projecting blocks of stone 
 in the gallery part of the building were pierced for the purpose of sustaining the masts which held the 
 velarium. 
 
 Over the side door is a slab bearing one of the inscriptions relating to the erection of the theatre, (See 
 a}/te, page 4-0.) 
 
 Pkiles XXXV. XXXVI. 
 ELEVATION OF THE EXTERIOR. 
 
 Plate XXXVII. 
 
 SECTION THROUGH THE THEATRE. 
 
 The ai'rangement of the various chambers at the back of the scene is here shown, and the timbers of the 
 roof over part of it restored ; with the exception of the columns, there is no other restoration, but the 
 entire building exists in as perfect a condition as it was on the day it was built. 
 
 PMe XXXVIII. 
 UPPER ORDER OF THE THEATRE. 
 
 Pig. 1. — Ornaments on the central pediment. The female figure surrounded by scrolls is that from which 
 the Turkish name of the neighbouring village is derived. It is called Bal-hiz, or the Girl of Honey. A 
 Turkoman related tlie following tradition about her to M. Tester ; — "Eamlarer Padishah, the king of the 
 serpents, fell in love with the queen of the bees, who inhabited a neighbouring forest; having demanded her 
 in marriage and having met with a refusal, he resolved to carry her off. In order to accompbsh this, he had 
 to cross a deep valley. Accordingly, he built a bridge, the ruins of which are still to be seen (those of an 
 aqueduct). His project succeeded; but after a year bad elapsed, the queen died, after giving birth to a 
 daughter, who was named Pal-kiz. The king then built a large palace for bis daughter (the theatre), in 
 which he had her portrait sculptured." 
 
 Such are the traditions of the Turks concerning the various ruins of towns and temples. 
 
TASSUS. 
 
 51 
 
 Plate XXXIX. 
 
 ELEVATION OF PROSCENIUM. 
 
 With, the exception of tlie columns, nothing has been restored in this elevation : the pediments and the 
 ornaments of the prosceniumj the steps, doors, vomitories, and staircases shown in the section, all exist entire. 
 
 Plate XL. 
 
 DETAILS OP IONIC ENTABLATURE. 
 Eig. 1.— The rich entablature of the lower order of the scene. 
 
 Fig. 2. — Small pediments of the scene. The scale applies to the smaller of the two. 
 
 I A S S U S.' 
 
 T^HE town is situated upon an island about twice as long as it is broad. The centre is occupied by a high 
 hill, upon the top of which stands the Acropolis. The houses were for the greater part built upon terraces. 
 The walls which surround the island are flanked by square towers ; they are built of large blocks of marble. 
 They were repaired in Roman times, and also by the Venetians and Genoese. 
 All the gateways are destroyed, except a small postern on the south side. 
 
 The theatre is the best preserved of the buildings of lassus. It is built on the side of the central hill, with 
 ashlar, put together without mortar. The seats are of white marble, and are ornamented with lions' paws ; they 
 arc almost all in position : there were twenty-one rows of seats. There are no remains of the order of the 
 scene. 
 
 Most of the ruins stand upon the low isthmus : these are those of the stadium, gymnasium, and other 
 edifices. 
 
 The stadium is built against the walls of the town ; it has a circular part, with four ranges of seats, and the 
 line of seats running parallel to the axis. 
 
 The palace is now a confused mass of ruins, from which all decoration has disappeared. 
 
 There were here two square bnildiugs, united by a double colonnade, some of the columns of which remain 
 in position to the height of four or five feet above tlie level of the soil. An Inscription was found here, showing 
 that these were the e.vedrcc and their porticos. 
 
 The necropolis was situated on the mainland : it contains numerous tombs. These may be divided into 
 three classes : those of the Leleges, which are tombs formed by long stones, rough, as they came from the quarry, 
 without inscriptions; Greek sarcophagi and Roman tombs, which are mostly sepulchral chambers of large 
 dimensions, 
 
 Plate XLI. 
 
 GENERAL PLAN OF THE CITY. 
 
 The positions of the chief buildings are indicated on the Plan. The intervening spaces were probably occupied 
 by houses. 
 
 ' Abi-idged ironi Tpxier's Asie Mineure. 
 
52 
 
 DESCRTTTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 MYRA.' 
 
 "11 TYE,A was a place of considerable importance in Byzantine times, on account of the sanctity it- gained 
 XtX from having been the residence and burial-place of St. Nicholas : it is situated on the south-eastern part 
 of the province of Lycia. In early times it was also a considerable city, if we may judge from the ruins of 
 the theatre and tomb, still remaining. The town was situated chiefly on a plain, by the side of a rocky 
 bill, where was situated the acropolis. 
 
 The theatre is one of the finest existing. The length, of the scene was decorated with granite columns of the 
 Comjiosite order. One still remains in situ, with its neighbouring pilaster ; the others are lying before the walls 
 of the jjroscenium, and we find in the area an accumulation of fragments of capitals, cornices, and ornaments of 
 all sorts. The material of which it is built is a white limestone, compact and beautiful as marble. The scene is 
 turned towards the south ; the eastern gallery is double, and conducts to the second dkizoma. All the galleries are 
 well constructed withoiit mortar. There are twenty-seven rows of stops in the tirst circuit, and twenty in the 
 second. 
 
 The tombs are the most remarkable in Lycia. They arc thirty in number, all cut in the mountain-side; some 
 are entirely detached from the rock, and form a portico in imitation of wooden buildings, and bear Lyciaa 
 inscriptions. 
 
 A number of bas-reliefs are executed high up on the rocks, representing a funeral ceremony. 
 The Mountain of Myra rises at the angle of two valleys. The town faced the south. 
 
 On the west flank of the mountain is a second necropolis, entirely cut in the rock, where the tombs have 
 a still more grandiose character. The rock in which the tombs are situated rises to a peak above the plain. 
 Those who have seen the acropolis of Petra state that that of Myra is superior in effect. 
 
 One of tlie tombs has a pediment 19 feet in length ; in the tympanum is sculptured the combat of a lion with 
 a bull. 
 
 The columns of the Ionic order, and ten pilasters supporting lions' heads, sustain the portico. A large bas- 
 relief of nine figures is placed over the door. Another tomb, not less important, is adorned with bas-reliefs almost 
 as large as life. 
 
 From Beaufort's Karfimaitif, Chapter II. 
 
 " About three miles up the river Andraki, stand the ruins of the city of Myra ; and near them a village, 
 which still retains that name. Mcletius says that Myra was originally a Ehodian colony ; and he boasts that the 
 bishop was the metropolitan of thirty-six suffragan sees. The present race of Greeks consider it as a place of 
 peculiar sanctity. Here, say they, St. Paul preached; here is the shrine of St. John ; and, above all, here arc 
 deposited the ashes of St. Nicolo, their patron saint. Their claim, however, to this ultimate step of the climax 
 may be doubted; for, according to Muratori,^ both Venice and Bari dispute the honour of having carried away 
 his body. 
 
 "My time would not permit me to examine this great emporium of precious relics; but Mr. Cockerell, a 
 gentleman well known to the literary world by bis interesting discoveries in Greece, and who visited Myra the 
 following year, found there the ruins of a considerable city. The theatre was very perfect, and he saw many 
 fragments of sculptnre that were executed in a masterly style. 
 
 " The inhabitants are chiefly Turks, and he described them as more than ordinarily jealous and ferocious. 
 While examining some statues, one of the mob exclaimed, ' If the infidels are attracted here by these blasphemous 
 figures, the temptation shall soon cease ; for when that dog is gone, I will destroy them.' " 
 
 A Mohammedan considers all imitations of the human figure to be impious, and the admiration of them 
 idolatrous. 
 
 Fiute XLil. 
 PLAN OF THE THLATEE. 
 
 Thisls given as the plan of a model Greek theatre, remaining in almost perfect preservation. It is built on 
 the side of a rocky hill, and faces the south. The scene, the seats, diazomata, vomitories, and corridors, all exist 
 as perfect as in the day they were built. The architecture is of a superior character, as may be seen from 
 the plates of details. 
 
 ' Abiiil^dd from Tcxiev's Asie Mmewe. '' Annnli d' Italia, toino vi. 
 
MYRA. 
 
 53 
 
 l^latc XLIII. 
 
 PROSCEKITJM OP THEATRE RESTORED, AND IN ITS ACTUAL STATE. 
 
 The restoration of this most beautiful specimen of GrEoco-Roman architecture was an easy task, as all tlie 
 members of the order were in existence. 
 
 The arrangement of the three doors of different sizes shows that the Greeks did not always sacrifice 
 convenience for uniformity of design. 
 
 Vlate XLIV. 
 
 SECTION THROUGH THE PROSCENIUM, &c. 
 
 Pig. 1. — Details of the entablature of the scene. With the exception of the curved frieze, the details 
 of the mouldings are excellent, and show greater refinement than is usual in works of so late a period. 
 Pigs. 2 and 3. — Console and honeysuckle ornament. 
 Pig. 4. — Section through the proscenium in its present state. 
 
 -plate XLV. 
 ORDER OP THEATRE. 
 
 There is a degree of vigour combined with great refinement in the architecture of this theatre. The capital is 
 one of the finest of its sort to be found in Asia Minor, notwithstanding the large size of the volutes. The foliage 
 is most clearly defined and delicately executed. The proportions of the entablature are excellent. The projection 
 of the cornice is greater, the mouldings generally are bolder, and the consoles more deeply undercut tlian is 
 usually the case in works of the period. 
 
 Plate XLVX. 
 VIEW OP A TOMB CUT IN THE ROCK. 
 
 This tomb is remarkable for the character of its architectural details, and for the fact tliat the pediment 
 projects eight feet from the face of the rock. The cymatium is a simple cyma, with an ovolo beneath. There is 
 no frieze ; the dentils arc unusually large. The capitals of both colurans and pilasters are remarkable on account 
 of their variation from the usual Ionic type. 
 
 Over the doorway there is a bas-relief representing a funeral repast. 
 
 In the pediment there is a very bold relief of a combat between a lion and a bull, a symbolical group 
 apparently borrowed from Asia, which occurs on many monuments of early times. The earliest representation 
 of it that I am acquainted with occurs on a Phoenician coin of Az-Baal, which I obtained at Beyrout. At Aizaui, 
 the same subject is to be seen on the frieze of the tbcatre, and at Colophon I dug up a similar group of archaic 
 character. 
 
 Altogether, the tomb is an interesting specimen of ancient Lycian architecture. 
 
54 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. 
 
 P A T A R A.' 
 
 THE tlicatre at Patara ia excavated in the northern side of a small hill ; it is somewhat more than a semi- 
 circle, whose external diameter is about two hundred feet, and contains thirty-four rows of marble seats, 
 few of which have been disturbed, Tho superior preservation of the prosceniuoi distinguishes this theatre from 
 most of those which are extant, and would render it well worthy of minute architectural detail. At the eastern 
 entrance there is a long and very perfect inscription recording the building of the theatre by Q. Velius TitianuSj 
 a.nd its dedication by his daughter, Velia Procla, in the fourth consulate of the Emperor Antoninus Pius. 
 
 A small rained temple stands on the side of the samo hill, and not far from thence towards the summit 
 there is a deep circular pit, of singular appearance. A flight of steps leads to its bottom, and from the centre 
 a square pillar rises above the surface of the ground : it is possible that this was the scat of the oracle. The 
 insulated pillar may have supported the statue of the Deity, and the pit may have afforded some secret means 
 of communication for the priest. 
 
 The town walls surrounded an area of considerable extent ; they may be easily traced, as well as the 
 situation of a castle which commanded the harbour, and of several towers which flanked the walls. 
 
 At their northern extreme, and facing the theatre, one of the gates is still erect. There have been inscriptions 
 on six projecting scrolls between the arches, but few of them are now legible. 
 
 On the outside of the walls there are a multitude of stone sarcophagi, most of them bearing inscriptions, 
 but all open and empty ; and within the walls, temples, altars, pedestals, and fragments of sculpture appear in 
 profusion, but ruined and mutilated. In a temple, which from the frequent recurrence of the word ZEYS, was 
 probably dedicated to Jupiter, a colossal hand was found, of good workmanship ; the fingers are nine inches long, 
 and are in the act of grasping — perhaps the thunderbolt. 
 
 We copied many Greek, and some Latin inscriptions, at Patara: they are too numerous to insert here; 
 but tho following elegiac verses may perhaps be interesting. The dotted letters represent those which were 
 doubtful, and an asterisk is placed where the original character was quite effaced. 
 
 IAPINA0HNAIHC 
 nANTfiNAIONYCtON 
 EPrON 
 HHEINHnATAPHNrHME 
 
 AABOYCAKPATEI 
 TMHAOYAnAMnEAOEN 
 TOC 
 
 EXnAEKAEOCKAIEN 
 A " TOIC 
 nAEmMETAAHN 
 M*! B AAnNOPO<l>H N 
 
 It is evident, from both Strabo and Livy (Strabo, lib. xiY. on Lycia; Livy, xxxvil. 16, 17), that Patara had 
 formerly a harbour. The situation is still apparent, but at present it is a swamp, elioked up with sand and 
 bushes, and all communication with the sea is cut off by a straight beach, through which there is no opening. 
 
 Tho sand has not only filled up the harbour, but has accumulated to a considerable height between 
 the ruins and the river Santhus. Long ranges of sand-hills rise with a gradual slope from behind each other, and 
 then break oiF in abrupt faces, leaving valleys between each ridge. The acclivity is in the direction of the prevailing 
 wind — from the westward ; and the surface, on which small eddies of fine sand are in continual motion, is wrinkled 
 like a sea-beach when uncovered by the tide. 
 
 Patara is now uninhabited ; but a few solitary peasants were found tending the cattle that wandered about the 
 plain. Prom these people we learned that, at a short distance in shore, there were ruins of far greater extent. 
 They are probably the remains of Xanthus, described by Strabo as the largest city of Lycia, and celebrated for its 
 singularly desperate resistance to the Persian and to the Roman arms. 
 
 Flate SLVII. 
 
 DETAILS OP PILASTER OP TEMPLE. 
 
 Tliis example of a Composite capital is given, because it is uncommon, though it bears some resemblance to 
 the capital of the Temple of the "Winds, and also to some capitals which I saw near St. Anthony's well at Patras 
 in the year 1855. It belongs to a small temple in emits, standing near the theatre of Patara in Lycia. The cella 
 is intact, but the columns have disappeared. The pilasters stand upon pedestals. The mouldings of the entablature 
 are quite plain ; the frieze is in the form of a console. The doorway of the temple is one of the finest examples 
 of its kind. 
 
 ' From Btaufort'B KimniianM. 
 
THE BASILICA OF PEKGAMTJS- 
 
 55 
 
 Flate SLVIII. 
 
 PATABA.— DETAILS OF DOORWAY OE TOMB. 
 
 This is one of the most elegant doorways of the GrEeco-E,oman period existing in Asia Minor. 
 
 Pig. 1.- — Elevation of angle of architrave, showing cornice and consoles. 
 
 Pig. 2. — Side elevation of console. 
 
 Pig. 3. — Section through cornice and architrave. 
 
 Pig. 4 — Console to a larger scale. 
 
 THE BASILICA OF PERGAMUS.' 
 
 A T the southern end of the tunnel huilt over the Sclinus stands a vast building which attracts the attention 
 of every traveller who enters Pergamus. High brick walls, witli courses of marble here and there, and 
 the shafts of columns lying about in the vicinity, indicate that this edifice was one of the most important 
 monuments of ancient Pergamus. According to a tradition that Spon found maintained hy the Greeks, this 
 was the ancient church of St. John, called by them Aghios Theologos, and it was desecrated by the Turks. 
 All authors who have had occasion to describe Pergamus have accepted this tradition without hesitation, 
 without even referring to the plan of the building in order to ascertain if it were originally intended for 
 a church. 
 
 The edifice consists of a large parallelogram, 137 ft. 9 in. in length by 70 ft. 2 ia. in breadth, internally. 
 A large doorway at the end gives access to the interior, and to the right and left of the doorway is a niche. 
 
 The nave is divided into two parts in its length. The fijst division has five niches on each side, like those 
 in the end wall. 
 
 Poundations can be traced to a distance of 48 feet from the hemicycle. The hemicyclc is 34 ft. C in. 
 in diameter ; to the right and left of it are two staircases which led to the upper part of the building. The side 
 niches are repeated in the fii-st story by windows of exactly the same size and form, and marble toothing-stones 
 show that in front of these niches there was formerly a portico of eight columns, the entablature of which 
 formed the first story. 
 
 Small blocks of masonry which are seen before the entrance, and a vertical toothing tliat appears in the 
 side wall, show that the portico was carried round in front of the entrance. 
 
 In that part of the side wall which was nearest the bemicycle, there are still to he seen the tootbing- 
 stones on the first story as well as on the ground floor : the restoration of this part therefore would be extremely 
 easy. 
 
 There were two ranges of colonnades one above the other ; the colonnade nearest the door was lighted 
 through that above it. 
 
 In the middle of the hemicycle was a step, on which was placed a tribune. Outside the lateral wall are some 
 holes, which appear to have received the beams of an external portico, and several columns of marble are still 
 lying in the neighbourhood. The windows of the first story are decorated with courses of marble, but all 
 sculptures and ornamental friezes have completely disappeared. The date of the building can only be con- 
 jectured from the materials and workmanship. 
 
 Without giving further details, it is evident that this buUding was not constructed for a church. There arc 
 not in it any evidence of the arrangements which were in common amongst the first Christians. If this plan be 
 compared with the description of the basilica by Vitruvius, there is found a perfect correspondence in all parts. 
 The breadth of the basilica, says he, ought to be at least a thii'd part of its length or the half, more or less. We 
 have here something like the proportions he indicates. The bottom of the nave is occupied by a pier, wbicli 
 supported the clialcidicum ; the two ranges of columns, and the staircase which leads to the tribunes, all coincide 
 with the requirements of Vitruvius. 
 
 On the platform which extends around the hemicycle of the basilica, there are two circular edifices one on 
 each side. These buildings are both in a good state of preservation ; they are built upon the same plan, and 
 surmounted by stone domes. There does not appear to have been a floor in the interior of either of them. 
 Tlie principal doors are arched, and blocks of marble, inlaid in the wall, seem to Indicate the former existence 
 of a decoration wliieii has totally disappeai'ed. 
 
 ' A1iri.lgerl frnn. TusierV ylsie Mimure. 
 
5(3 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE VLATES, 
 
 At the commencement of the arclies outside, there was a line of modillions, and the projection which 
 appears ahove, is a torus of marble ornamented with interlacing ornaments. The rotunda on the left, nearest 
 the river, communicates with a subterranean chamber by the means of a spii'al staircase. This chamber is 
 supported by square pillars, apparently either a prison or a cistern. 
 
 Conjectures might be made mthout number as to the use of these rotundas, but their plan is so very 
 different from that of any known buildings, that it is impossible to advance a theory that is at all probable. 
 The Greeks of Pergamus call these edifices Ol BIlMOt. — the altars. They were perhaps temples dedicated 
 to the divinities who protect commerce, or temples of ^sculapius and Hygeia. The worship of j^isculapius 
 was Tcry popular at Pergamus ; but it must be acknowledged that there is no evidence in support of 
 these surmises. What is evident is, let, that the basilica or the church called Aghios Theologos was a 
 distinct building, and that the rotundas are incontestably additions : 2ud, that all the different parts, and 
 the arrangements required by Vitruvius for the Homan basilica, are perfectly observed in the plan of this 
 edifice: 3rd, that it is possible that both the Christians and Mussulmans have at different epochs used it for 
 their worship ; hut its constmctiou, whether or not anterior to the Christian times, is decidedly Roman. 
 
 Flate XLIX. 
 
 VIEW OP THE RUINS OF THE BASILICA. 
 
 This view is taken from the north-east end, and shows the apse and the two circular buildings at the 
 sides. 
 
 Plate L. 
 
 PLAN OP THE BASILICA. 
 
 Although, as M. Texicr mentions, according to local tradition, this edifice is known as the chm-cli of St. John, 
 the architectural evidence shows tliat it was not bnUt for a church. Tliere is neither exo- nor eso-narthe.v; atrium 
 nor gyiKBConitis. There is an apse certainly, but it is not sufficiently deep to have formed the bema of a Byzantine 
 church. Besides, in the places where we usually find the gazophylakion and skeuophylakion, there are two stair- 
 cases which have led to the upper part of the edifice. It must therefore have been a basilica, and it is one of the 
 few examples of the ancient basilica existing. It was formerly divided longitudinally into three parts by two 
 rows of columns : above these there were other columns, forming tribunes. There are no architectural ornaments 
 remaining, except an enriched moulding which runs round the exterior; the character of this and the-nature of 
 the construction prove that the building was erected in the time of imperial Rome. The two detached circular 
 buildings may have been either temples or storehouses. 
 
 FInie LI. 
 
 ELEVATION AND SECTION OP THE BASILICA. 
 
 On the upper part of the plate arc the elevations of the basilica and of the two round buildings in their 
 relative positions ; in the lower part, a longitudinal section of the building. 
 
DETAILS OF ORDER 
 
F I 
 
TEMPLE ©IF AFiOilLCD) BRASJCEIM. 
 
 PILASTER CAPITAL 3^ STAT'UK FROM THE SACRED WAY 
 
PLAII OF THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER. 
 
I 
 
 i 
 
PL 16 
 
 DETAILS OF THk CELLJ vVA_^ 
 
AJPiaMCraSKAS. 
 
 PI 27 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF VENUS 
 
J 
 
PRiNCiFAL ORDSK OF THE rFRItnLUS 
 
UPPER ORDER OF THEATRE 
 
/ 
 
GENERAL PLAN OF THE CITY 
 
DETAILS OF PILASTER OF TEMFLE.