' 
 
 
 
 
LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 OF 
 
 SAILOR LIFE, 
 
 AS EXEMPLIFIED IN FIFTEEN YEARS’ EXPERIENCE, INCLUDING THE 
 
 MORE THRILLING EVENTS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 U. S. EXPLORING EXPEDITION, 
 
 AND 
 
 * 
 
 REMINISCENCES 
 
 OF AN 
 
 EVENTFUL LIFE ON THE “ MOUNTAIN WAVE." 
 BY JOSEPH G. CLARK. 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 JOHN PUTNAM, 81 CORNHILL . 
 1847 . 
 
Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1847, 
 BY JOSEPH G. CLARK, 
 
 In the Clerk’s office of the District Court of Massachusetts. 
 
TO THE 
 
 REV. PHINEAS STOW, 
 
 IN CONSIDERATION OF HIS UNTIRING AND EFFICIENT LABORS IN 
 THE GREAT WORK OF EVANGELIZING SEAMEN, AND IN TOKEN 
 OF THE HIGH REGARD WHICH I ENTERTAIN FOR HIS CHRIS- 
 TIAN CHARACTER, THIS WORK IS MOST RESPECTFULLY AND 
 AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED, BY 
 
 THE AUTHOR 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/lightsshadowsofsOOclar 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 In presenting this work to the public, I deem it un- 
 necessary to enter into any elaborate explanation of 
 its design, or offer an apology for its appearance. I 
 have been pursuing an object which I conceive to be 
 of the highest importance, which is the awakening of 
 the public sympathy to the nature and importance of 
 the claims of seamen ; this, in my estimation, may be 
 best accomplished by a truthful and lucid exhibition 
 of the “lights and shadows of sailor life.” To ac- 
 complish the object thus truthfully, a thorough ed- 
 ucation in the school of experience will be the qual- 
 ification which the public generally, both learned and 
 unlearned, will regard as most adapted to such a work. 
 At the present day, much interest is already felt in 
 behalf of the sailor, and that interest is still increasing. 
 It is a matter of the first importance that suitable in- 
 formation should be furnished, in order to give a right 
 direction to the efforts that may be employed to ele- 
 vate the character of seamen. One great truth has 
 long been apparent to my mind, which is, that the 
 condition of the sailor must be improved before his 
 character can be very materially elevated. The gos- 
 1 * 
 
VI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 pel, indeed, can accomplish, either directly or indirect- 
 ly, all that is expected in moral reform, but it enjoins, 
 with much clearness, the removal of physical as well 
 as moral obstacles. 
 
 Of what avail is it that the mariner is induced to 
 attend religious service on the Sabbath, if he mingles 
 with the corrupting society of the brothel the remain- 
 ing portion of the time 1 Of what avail is it that we 
 go to the sailor shivering on the beach, escaped from 
 the wreck, with religious books ? A dry jacket, or food, 
 would be much more acceptable, while moral efforts 
 might be appropriate and effectual afterward. This 
 great truth has been overlooked until quite recently, 
 when it was embraced by the Seamen’s Friend Soci- 
 ety. The officers of that benevolent institution have 
 learned the fact that every step in improving the phys- 
 ical condition of the sailor advances him two steps to- 
 wards reformation, — first by removing him from his 
 vices and vile companions, and secondly, by inclining 
 him toward virtue by bringing him under the influ- 
 ence of the gospel. 
 
 Religion is a work in which the understanding is 
 concerned; no one comes under its influence without 
 a knowledge of it ; no man will apply for pardon and 
 grace, until he understands properly that there is no 
 other hope for him. That part of our Lord’s prayer, 
 “ sanctify them through thy truth, thy word is truth,” 
 is sufficient evidence of the fact that any advancement 
 in the divine life after conversion, will be as much the 
 work of an enlightened understanding, as is the con- 
 version. 
 
 The benevolent operations of the day being but a 
 part of religion, must be understandingly engaged in, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Vll 
 
 if they are to be auxiliaries to the conversion of the 
 world. 
 
 The gospel comes to us in our darkness, a glorious 
 light from heaven ; it reveals the great scheme of sal- 
 vation, and at once discloses the promises of God to 
 his people, and the means by which those promises 
 are to be fulfilled. The means, then, like the end, are 
 of divine appointment ; hence, any efforts that may 
 be made on the part of Zion to aid in the great gos- 
 pel victory, will be effectual only as God’s means are 
 employed in the accomplishment of his purposes. 
 
 The question very naturally arises, what has the 
 poor, despised, neglected, degraded sailor to do in the 
 spread of the gospel? I appeal to the Bible , — u Be- 
 cause the abundance of the sea shall be converted un- 
 to thee , the forces of the gentiles shall come unto thee.” 
 Again, the same view is repeated in that vision in 
 which the prophet was shown the coming glory of 
 Christ: “ Thy sons shall come from far.” u Surely 
 the isles shall wait for me, and the ships of Tarshish 
 first, to bring thy sons from far, their silver and their 
 gold with them, unto the name of the Lord thy God, 
 and to the Holy One of Israel.” In these and other 
 passages, we see that God has designed the sailor to 
 act a very important part in the great conflict between 
 sin and grace. In accordance with this view, Jesus, 
 being about to choose his disciples, went to the sea of 
 Galilee, and selected a small company of weather- 
 beaten sailors as the means best adapted to the spread 
 of the gospel. 
 
 While I would avoid every thing like egotism, and 
 while I would not detract from the intrinsic value of 
 the ordinary missionary labor, yet it is worthy of re- 
 
Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 mark, that it was to these sailors that Jesus gave his 
 great commission, “ Go ye into all the world and 
 preach the gospel to every creature , 55 a commission 
 for which the sailor is most admirably adapted. It 
 becomes a Christian duty, then, to inquire into the 
 condition of these individuals, and it is, partly, to give 
 such information, that these “ Lights and Shadows 55 
 have been penned. 
 
 The Journal of the Exploring Expedition, publish- 
 ed by the government, being a very expensive work, 
 places its very important and interesting matter be- 
 yond the means of the working classes, and the scenes 
 and sketches which I have penned from my journal 
 of that cruise, will be read with interest and profit by 
 such as shall peruse these pages, as they will deline- 
 ate the manners and customs of different portions of 
 the world, of whose inhabitants little has been writ- 
 ten. The description of scenery and “ life on the ocean 
 wave , 55 has been truthfully penned, and the author 
 can, with all confidence, appeal to the experience of 
 every sailor for its confirmation. In the recital of the 
 events in which he was personally engaged, any tiling 
 like exaggeration has been carefully avoided ; the 
 facts connected with the death of the generous Un- 
 derwood and Henry, were too deeply engraven on his 
 body as well as his mind to be easily forgotten, and in 
 a way that renders exaggeration wholly unnecessary. 
 Any remark that he may make upon the officers of the 
 different vessels, he has given only his own personal 
 opinions, free from prejudice, or color of any kind, 
 save truth. 
 
 From the nature of their employment, seamen are 
 to some extent isolated, removed from many of the 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 influences which are adapted, in their tendencies, to 
 refine the more ennobling sentiments of our nature, 
 and to elevate human character. From these circum- 
 stances it seems inevitable that they should assume a 
 kind of distinctness , should become a class, yet not a 
 caste , to which the tendency of the past age has been 
 so much inclined. There are peculiarities among all 
 the varied classes and conditions of society, and this 
 diversity constitutes the necessity of an adaptation of 
 reformatory labors to these peculiarities. In this view 
 of the subject, no one, it is presumed, will question 
 the propriety of the issue of books which will be par- 
 ticularly interesting to the sailor as such, or those that 
 will canvass such topics as are interesting and impor- 
 tant, not only to seamen but landsmen. Every one 
 who has been at all observant, must have been con- 
 vinced that there has been, and still is, a manifest de- 
 ficiency in this respect. It is true there have been 
 many specimens of modern literature — “ falsely so 
 called” — in which the imagery of the ocean has been 
 employed ; and others still, whose plots have been 
 drawn from the incidents of the ocean, and others of 
 a different character, — all of which are designed for 
 the u sons of the mountain wave.” Of such works 
 there is an abundance. 
 
 It is not true, — as many have supposed, — that sea- 
 men can not appreciate laudable efforts, which are 
 made to elevate the class. As among all classes of 
 society, there is a variety here. There are those who 
 are as degraded and brutalized, seemingly, as their 
 native depravity can make them, reveling in the 
 ha„unts of pollution and drunkenness. As accessary, 
 
X 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 however, to this wreck of character, and blasting of 
 early-cherished hopes, the filching, soulless landlord, 
 and the wily dram-seller, have much to account for. 
 The poor, down-trodden sailor has received unnum- 
 bered wrongs from their hands, which are still regis- 
 tered against them in letters of fire. 
 
 Yet there is a far greater number who are high- 
 minded, generous and worthy, who have selected an 
 ocean-life — not from a blind fatality — but have been 
 drawn to it by a love of the grand and wildly sub- 
 lime, which the ocean ever presents to the lover of 
 nature’s wonders. The scholar is often found here, 
 whose romantic predilections have induced him to 
 leave the halls of science, and study nature in her 
 more imposing forms. There is a grandeur in ocean 
 scenery, a majesty in the strides of a stately ship, as 
 she moves, like “a thing of life,” over the heaving 
 bosom of restless waters ; — an awe in the tempest, 
 when the mighty voice of the Omnipotent is heard in 
 thunder-tones, pealing amid the roar of winds and 
 the dashings of billows, which can divert the man of 
 letters from his more quiet labors. 
 
 There are, indeed, many u shadows” in the sailor’s 
 life, yet it has its “ lights” also; and could the pro- 
 fession be elevated in the popular estimation, to the 
 position which its importance demands, and the tal- 
 ent which is already enlisted, be developed, its “lights” 
 would be far more conspicuous. Indeed, when the 
 efficiency of this branch of industry is appreciated ; 
 when the peculiar relations which the marine enter- 
 prise sustains to the advancement of civilization, and, 
 above all, to the propagation of the everlasting gos- 
 pel among the benighted sons of heathen gloom are 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XI 
 
 felt, the apparent indifference of a portion of Christen- 
 dom is wholly unaccountable. The sailor is a self- 
 constituted missionary, and must be regarded in pa- 
 gan climes as the representative of a Christian com- 
 munity. He may bear the olive branch of peace .to 
 such as are blindly bowing before dumb idols, or are 
 prostrating themselves before the ponderous car, to 
 avert the vengeance of imaginary gods, or he will 
 scatter the seeds of corruption, intemperance and 
 death. A neutrality in this matter is scarcely attain- 
 able. The records of the past, and the experience of 
 those on mission grounds, furnish sad proofs of this 
 proposition. Those labors have often proved appa- 
 rently ineffectual, from the counteracting influences 
 of those who have visited missions, and have not been 
 guided by the pure principles of Christianity. The 
 pagan, in his simplicity, has shrunk in horror from 
 the licentiousness of those whom he has regarded as 
 Christians, simply because their residence is in a 
 Christian country. 
 
 These considerations will justify the remark made 
 at the onset, that no apology is deemed necessary for 
 any attempts which may be made to elevate this class 
 of our citizens, — the results of whose examples so in- 
 timately affect the great interests of humanity. 
 
 In order to render this work still more acceptable 
 to the reader, I have secured the services of Mr. J. H. 
 Hanaford, a gentleman who was employed in inter- 
 esting the readers of the “ Light Ship,” of which 
 paper he was the editor for some time ; his sympathy 
 for, and deep interest and zeal in behalf of the sons of 
 11 Zebulon his well-established character for morals 
 
Xll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 and religion, united with his scientific attainments, 
 admirably qualify him to review this narrative, and 
 prepare it properly- for the press. 
 
 It is but justice to add, that the very short time oc- 
 cupied in its publication, with some unfavorable cir- 
 cumstances, wholly beyond my control, have rendered 
 the work less perfect than it otherwise would have 
 been. In consequence of this, some errors would 
 naturally be unavoidable. 
 
 BOSTON, SEPTEMBER, 1847. 
 
CLARK’S NARRATIVE 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Departure — Sermon — Ocean Scenery — Flying Fish and 
 Dolphins — Brilliant Phosphoretic Scene, and its cause — The 
 Madeira Islands — Rio de Janeiro — Ascent of the Sugar Loaf. 
 
 Farewell to the land of my childhood and youth, 
 
 The land of the bible, religion and truth ; 
 
 Thou bright land of blessings in every form, 
 
 1 leave thee, and fly to the billows and storm. 
 
 Ye scenes of true happiness, friendship and home, 
 
 Through which, when a boy, I delighted to roam, — 
 
 Ye fields of sweet wild-flowers, the woodbine and heath, 
 
 I leave ye to grapple with dangers and death. 
 
 1838. All things being ready for sea, on the 9th 
 of August dropped down to Hampton roads, prepar- 
 atory to sailing for the South Pacific Ocean, where 
 we remained for a few days, waiting for a favorable 
 breeze. 
 
 The memorable day at length arrived for the long- 
 talked-of Expedition to sail. At half past three 
 o’clock P. M. a signal was made from the Commo- 
 2 
 
14 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 dore’s ship for the squadron to get underway. Ac- 
 cordingly, soon after the capstan was manned, and 
 the anchor “ catted,” and every one seemed anxious 
 to hid adieu to his home, since they had been so long 
 kept in suspense, many in sight of their own 
 “ homes,” without ever having the privilege of visit- 
 ing their friends. 
 
 There have been various changes in this Expedi- 
 tion since its first organization under the command of 
 Thomas Ap Catesby Jones, Esq., and six commanders 
 have been appointed and discharged since Commo- 
 dore Jones gave it up. And we were now about to 
 take leave of our loved, our native country. 
 
 We had not proceeded far, when the wind died 
 away and we were compelled to come to anchor, 
 only a short distance from where we started. 
 
 Soon after, however, a breeze springing up, signals 
 were again made for the squadron to get underway, 
 which was immediately done, and all the vessels 
 stood out in company. The breeze lasting but a 
 short time, we made but little progress during the 
 night. In the morning we were in sight of Cape 
 Henry. At eight o’clock the ships were “hove to” 
 and the pilots left, and by them we sent our final 
 “farewells” to our friends on shore. At such a 
 moment, when the last hold on our country is sunder- 
 ed from us, the kinder feelings of the soul are awak- 
 ened. Our friends become more than ever endeared 
 to us, and every thing connected with them wears an 
 increasing interest. There was a sadness on the 
 countenance of many, and a quivering of the lips. 
 
 Home ! Native country ! How dear to the heart. 
 How each cherished remembrances of childhood’s 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 15 
 
 scenes, and loved associations of those sunny hours, 
 come rushing up from the past, and steal into the 
 throbbing bosom, as the ties of affection are riven. 
 The intrusive tear moistens the eye, as early fancies 
 flit before us, and wend their silent way down the 
 cheek of youth, — the overflowing of the troubled 
 waters of the soul. Affection gladly would throw 
 her bands around the loved of earth, and draw them 
 nearer and nearer, as the eye catches the last glimpse 
 of boyhood’s home in its faint, indistinct outline, but 
 it is vain. The distant hum of business has died 
 away, and the rippling of the waves, as they murmur 
 across the prow, is heard instead. The towering 
 spires.,, which point upward to the God of the “Sea 
 and the dry land,” have become dim in the distance, 
 and familiar objects have blended in the fast fading 
 view of the distant shore. But the fancies of the 
 past, and endearments of home, must give place to 
 the realities of a life on the “mountain wave.” 
 
 The ship, from the gentleness of her motion, seemed 
 less willing than ourselves, to exchange the smooth 
 waters of the Bay and the beautiful landscapes along 
 the shores of the “Old Dominion,” for the troubled 
 bosom and unbroken horizon of the ocean. In a few 
 hours afterwards the shores of our happy country re- 
 ceded from our view, and seemed only as a speck 
 upon the horizon. 
 
 At eleven o’clock all hands were called to “mus- 
 ter,” where we had an excellent and appropiate ser- 
 mon by our Chaplain, Mr. Elliott, who earnestly in- 
 voked “ Him whom the winds and waves obey,” to 
 aid us in our arduous undertaking. He spoke feel- 
 ingly of the dangers of our enterprize, and the inabili- 
 
16 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ty of human exertions, without the aid of Him. who, 
 when called upon by his affrighted companions, 
 “ Lord save us or we perish,” bade the angry billows 
 cease, and in a moment they were still. 
 
 At half past one o’clock, P. M. we were piped 
 down, and at five o’clock again called to muster, 
 when each mess was furnished with a Bible and 
 every man with a Prayer Book. 
 
 The sea is a fit place for contemplating the majesty 
 and power of the “ Almighty,” where the air is calm ; 
 where sleepeth the deep waters. What a contrast 
 when comparing the smoothness of the sea yesterday, 
 with the troubled bosom of the mighty deep to-day ! 
 Now the sea is running “ mountains high;” — yes- 
 terday it was hushed, and as smooth as a mirror. 
 Through the night, nothing seemed to disturb its 
 peaceful bosom ; but now and then the gleaming of a 
 shark, or some monster of the deep. 
 
 Some of our “green-horns” looked truly pitiful. 
 This is nothing like what they fancied in their dreams 
 of a sea-life in their juvenile days, after listening to 
 the yarn of some “ old tar.” This is only a prelude to 
 what may be expected before we accomplish the ob- 
 ject of the Expedition. During the day we shipped 
 some very heavy seas, which flooded our decks from 
 stem to stern. During the next day the weather was 
 clear and pleasant, with a strong breeze, sufficient for 
 any ordinary vessel to sail at the rate of ten knots. 
 This breeze we lost however, on account of having to 
 lay to, for the Relief, which vessel is a very dull 
 sailer, and besides, she is loaded as deep as she can 
 swim. The Captain finding that he should be de- 
 tained if he continued to wait for the Relief, sent or- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 17 
 
 ders for her to make the best of her way to Rio de 
 Janeiro, where the squadron is to rendezvous, pre- 
 vious to doubling Cape Horn. 
 
 For some time during the latter part of August, 
 that “ Queen of months ” for an ocean life, the ocean 
 around us was enlivened by immense numbers of 
 flying fish. This is a beautiful animal about six 
 or eight inches in length, and of slender and delicate 
 form. Until now, I had an impression that it receiv- 
 ed its name from springing into the air for a moment 
 only, and then sinking into its native element ; but for 
 several days, flocks of forty and fifty, and even of a 
 greater number, have risen about our ship, and flown 
 yards before descending again. 
 
 When in this situation, a person ignorant of their 
 nature could not distinguish them from birds of the 
 same size. The large transparent fins which they 
 use in flying, have every appearance of wings, and 
 when in a direction opposite to the sun, their whole 
 bodies are of a most dazzling silver white. 
 
 But in this case, as well as in that of the dying 
 dolphin, we have been led to commiserate as well as 
 to admire. At most times, when these little creatures 
 take flight, it is only to escape from some devouring 
 enemy in close pursuit. 
 
 We have often caught a glimpse of the dolphin 
 darting through the water under them, as they have 
 skimmed along its surface ; and once, after watching 
 with delight the lengthened course of an uncommon- 
 ly beautiful fish, as time after time it dipped for a 
 moment but scarcely touched the waves before it rose 
 again, and seemed to exert every power to pursue its 
 rapid way, we saw it fall directly into the jaws of 
 
18 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 some ferocious monster, which, as if doubly ravenous 
 from the chase, leaped partly out of the water to re- 
 ceive it. They seem peculiarly ill-fated ; not unfre- 
 quently a flight from their enemies exposes them to 
 the rapacity of others equally destructive, and they 
 become the prey of gulls, cormorants and other sea 
 fowl, hovering over the water for food. In their 
 serial course, they also often come in contact with 
 vessels, and fall helpless captives on their decks. 
 
 It is pleasing, after a long seclusion from the so- 
 ciety of our fellows, save the few with whom we 
 come in daily contact, during the monotony of a rou- 
 tine of duties peculiar to a squadron like ours, it is 
 pleasing under such circumstances, to greet a brother 
 man. He may be an entire stranger, with whom 
 we can have no cherished reviews of the past ; can 
 gather no gems from the sunny scenes of childhood, 
 — perchance he is from a distant clime, has his local 
 prejudices, his sectional animosities, yet he is a brother 
 sailor, and is greeted with the tokens of friendship. 
 
 During the first of September we were favored 
 with fine weather and fair breezes, and were making 
 rapid progress toward the place of our destination. 
 It is under such circumstances that the sailor feels 
 buoyant. He sees no darkening clouds about him, 
 no lightning’s glare, no yawning abyss beneath, ready 
 to engulf him in the depths of ocean’s bed, but his 
 bark moves onward in stately grandeur, a “ thing of 
 life.” He feels a pride, known only to the sailor. 
 
 At eleven o’clock, September 9th, all hands were 
 called, when we had a sermon from our Chaplain, 
 from James 5: 6, 12. His discourse was direct- 
 ed principally against profane swearing. Such ser- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 19 
 
 vices effectually call to remembrance scenes of the 
 past and awaken the better feelings of our nature. 
 
 In the afternoon, we passed in sight of Pico, one of 
 the Western Islands. 
 
 On the following day the lookout from the mast- 
 head reported “ land ho,” which proved to be the 
 Island of Saint Michaels, another of the Western 
 Islands, and on the twelfth we were off Saint Mi- 
 chaels. Saint Michaels is a high and mountainous 
 Island, and at the distance we were from it, has a 
 dreary appearance. But I am told that it is extreme- 
 ly fertile, and produces excellent fruit and wine. 
 
 September 4th. This morning we had the first 
 sight of a dolphin, one of the most beautiful of the 
 inhabitants of the sea. The usual length of this fish 
 appears to be about two feet. In its shape it bears but 
 little resemblance to the representation of it seen on 
 vases, &c., and in marine emblems, and armorial bear- 
 ings, but is very similar to the white salmon trout, 
 found in fresh water lakes. When swimming in the 
 water, its colors appear exceedingly delicate and 
 beautiful. The head, back, and upper part of the 
 sides, vary from the hue of burnished steel to that of 
 deep azure and nazarine blue, shading off toward the 
 under part in pea green and light yellow. The dol- 
 phin is often taken with a hook and line, but this 
 morning one was struck with a harpoon and brought 
 upon deck. I hastened to witness its colors while 
 dying. I found them to be as truly beautiful as 
 they have been described, consisting of rapid transi- 
 tions, from the deepest purple approaching to black, 
 through blue, green, gold of different hues, and several 
 shades of silver, to almost a snow white, and then to 
 
20 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 purple again. The sight, however, was painful from 
 a kind of sympathy with the beautiful sufferer. I 
 could hut feel that the gratification of my curiosity 
 was at the expense of its life. 
 
 The colors soon became less and less brilliant, and 
 in five minutes entirely disappeared. A large school 
 of boneto was sporting about the ship in company 
 with the dolphin. They are a very active fish and 
 frequently throw themselves several feet out of water. 
 
 In a water spout we have had one of those phe- 
 nomena, characteristic of the region in which we 
 then were. It was at too great a distance to be seen 
 very minutely; the end nearest the ocean was scarcely 
 perceptible, though the agitation of the water under 
 it was quite evident, the upper extremity terminated 
 by a tubular expansion, similar in form to the large 
 end of a trumpet, in a heavy black cloud. The part 
 clearly visible was about three hundred feet in length 
 and the cloud not less than fifteen hundred feet in 
 height. 
 
 There was a shower of rain almost immediately 
 afterwards, of the largest drops I ever saw. It was 
 perfectly calm, and the ocean glassy as a mirror, 
 which made the appearance of the rain, as it struck 
 the surface of the water, singularly beautiful, as far 
 as the eye could reach. The whole sea seemed a 
 plain of glass studded with diamonds of the first mag- 
 nitude. 
 
 At ten o’clock at night, the exhibitions of the day 
 were followed by a phosphoretic scene of unrivaled 
 beauty and sublimity. I have often before observed 
 luminous points, like sparks of fire floating here and 
 there in the wake of our vessel ; but now the whole 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 21 
 
 ocean was literally bespangled with them, notwith- 
 standing the smoothness of the surface. There was a 
 considerable swell of the sea ; and sparkling as it did 
 on every part as with fire, the mighty heavings of its 
 bosom were indescribably magnificent. It seemed 
 as if the sky had fallen to a level with the ship, 
 and all its stars in ten fold number and brilliancy 
 were rolling about with the undulation of the billows. 
 The horizon in every direction presented a line of un- 
 interrupted light, while the wide space intervening 
 was one extent of apparent fire. The sides of our 
 vessel appeared kindling to a flame, and the flash of 
 the concussion gleamed half way up the rigging, and 
 illumined every object along the whole course of the 
 ship. By throwing any thing over board a display of 
 light and colors took place, surpassing in beauty and 
 brilliancy the finest exhibition of fireworks. The 
 rudder too, by its motion, created splendid corrusca- 
 tions at the stern, and a flood of light, by which our 
 track was marked far behind us. The smaller fishes 
 were distinctly traceable by running lines, showing 
 their rapid course ; while now and then broad gleam- 
 ings, extending many yards in every direction, 
 made known the movement of some monster of the 
 deep. But minuteness will only weary, without con- 
 veying any adequate impression of the scene. 
 
 It would have been wise perhaps only to have said 
 that it was among the most sublime scenes which na- 
 ture herself ever presents. The cause of this phe- 
 nomenon was long a subject of speculation among 
 men of science, but is now satisfactorily ascertained 
 to be sea animalcules of the luminous tribe, partic- 
 ularly the species Medusa. 
 
22 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 Captain A. K. Long, of the ship Relief, took great 
 pains in examining this subject with great minute- 
 ness. 
 
 The weather is still favorable, and the breeze pro- 
 pitious. At daylight the island of Madeira, just ap- 
 peared in sight, was looming above the watery hori- 
 zon. About three o’clock, P. M. we came up with 
 these justly celebrated islands, and I need not at- 
 tempt a description of the sublime and picturesque 
 scenery, or the rich and highly cultivated hills. At 
 sunset we arrived off the town of Funchal, and came 
 to anchor in Funchal Roads near the town. 
 
 Soon after coming to anchor, we received a visit 
 from the American Consul, who frequently visited 
 our ship during our stay. 
 
 The Madeira Islands consist of Madeira Parto 
 Santo and the Desert Isles. Madeira, the principal 
 island, is distinguished for its wines, whieh are ex- 
 ported to various parts of the world; its capital is 
 Funchal. 
 
 These islands belong to Portugal, and have a pop- 
 ulation of ninety thousands, including blacks. 
 
 After our arrival here, the officers and scientific 
 gentlemen were busily engaged in examining the isl- 
 ands, and making observations, and measuring the 
 height of some of the loftiest mountains. The wea- 
 ther was fine and beautiful, and the country in every 
 direction was clothed in green verdure. Our ship 
 was furnished with a plenty of excellent beef and 
 vegetables, and also fruit in abundance. I suppose 
 there is no place in the known world which pro- 
 duces finer beef, vegetables and fruit, than this isl- 
 and. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 23 
 
 The island is under the government of Portugal, 
 and the natives seem to be quite loyal to the present 
 Queen Donna Maria. Its capital, Funchal, is a 
 handsome little town, containing some six or eight 
 thousand inhabitants, who seem to he a gay and live- 
 ly people, and remarkably hospitable. Like other 
 Spanish and Portuguese towns, it has its number of 
 churches and convents, which were mostly illuminat- 
 ed the first part of the night. 
 
 At two o’clock, P. M., on the following day, we 
 weighed anchor, and bid adieu to this truly beautiful 
 island — squadron in company. 
 
 After leaving Madeira, we had delightful weather 
 with fine cool breezes. At four o’clock, P. M, we 
 passed the Island Mayo, one of the Cape de Verd Isl- 
 ands, and at midnight lay to off the Island of San 
 Jago, the principal Island of the Cape de Yerds. 
 
 October 6th, we were off the island. At nine 
 o’clock, A. M., came to anchor off the town of Porto 
 Praya, and soon after received a visit from Mr. Gar- 
 dener, American Consul. 
 
 Cape De Yerd Islands, discovered in 1460 by the 
 Portuguese and still subject to the crown of Portugal, 
 form a group of about twenty in number, including 
 those of a smaller size, which are unimportant. They 
 formerly contained a population of about twenty 
 thousands, but at present are very sparsely inhabited. 
 They are all more or less mountainous, with scarcely 
 enough vegetation to support themselves and cattle. 
 The people, isolated as they were from the world, with 
 most of the channels of communication cut off be- 
 tween them and the other countries, are dependent 
 chiefly for whatever sustenance their own islands do 
 
24 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 not afford, upon vessels casually stopping at them. 
 The trade is generally carried on by barter. From 
 the time of their first discovery they have been sub- 
 ject at intervals to severe drought and famine. The 
 rain of heaven is often withheld for several years in 
 succession, at which time all the sources of fertility 
 are dried up, and the people and their cattle perish 
 for the want of food and water. It is not surprising 
 to learn that so many have perished from famine. 
 The most deadly famine took place in 1832, when one 
 half of the inhabitants lost their lives, and all their 
 cattle died. Large donations were made in New 
 York and other parts of the United States for their 
 relief, with which provisions were purchased and 
 sent them. 
 
 Coffee and sugar are raised in some parts of the isl- 
 and, but not in any abundance. We saw herds of 
 cattle and some thousands of goats grazing on the de- 
 clivities of the mountain. The inhabitants, from in- 
 termixture, have become almost of the negro com- 
 plexion and features. 
 
 Porto Praya is the capital of San Jago. 
 
 On the 27th of October, we got underway and 
 stood out to sea with a pleasant breeze. On the 29th 
 a sail was reported in sight, and, as we were near the 
 coast of Africa, we were suspicious that she was a 
 slaver. Spy-glasses were eagerly raised, and her 
 manoeuvres closely watched ; however, she soon ran 
 away from us. 
 
 On the 12th and 13th, large schools of dolphin 
 played about our vessel, and a number of them were 
 caught, and notwithstanding our medical officers said 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 25 
 
 they were sometimes poisonous, they were eaten 
 without feeling any inconvenience from them. 
 
 Nothing of importance occurred until near the close 
 of November, when land was reported, which proved 
 to be Cape Frio, a high and irregular point of land 
 forty miles distant. On the same evening, we came 
 to anchor in the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, after a 
 passage of ninety-five days from Hampton Roads. 
 Found the United States ship Independence and a 
 number of English and French ships of war, also 
 merchant ships of all nations. 
 
 Two days after my arrival I embraced the oppor- 
 tunity of visiting the shore, and commenced my ob- 
 servations upon the Brazilians. 
 
 On entering the capacious harbor of Rio, you pass 
 the frowning batteries of Fort Santa Cruz at the foot 
 of Signal Hill on the right hand, and on the left Fort 
 Saint Lucia, built on a small island near the main 
 land, and another small one a little to the eastward of 
 Sugar Loaf Hill, so called from its shape, which is 
 one immense isolated rock, and lifts its almost per- 
 pendicular sides to the clouds, a lower tier of which 
 perpetually crowns its barren head. It is about one 
 thousand feet high, said to have been inaccessible to 
 all save an Englishman, who by some mysterious 
 means ascended it, and raised thereon the flag of his 
 country, as a proud signal of his exploit. Whether 
 he fell from the rock into the deep beneath, or was 
 slain by some hired assassin, is not and probably 
 never will be known. Some of the officers of the 
 Expedition have succeeded in reaching its high- 
 est summit, and there unfurled the star-spangled 
 3 
 
26 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 banner; ” they remained upon it all night, and in the 
 morning descended again and returned in safety to 
 the ship. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Description of Rio de Janeiro — Emperor’s Palace — Celebration 
 of the Emperor’s Birth — Imperial Church Chapel — Church, and 
 the Vow of the Empress — Sectional differences — Funeral oc- 
 casion. 
 
 11 1 love the blue waters ! their deep maddening roar, 
 
 Is food for a spirit unbounded by shore j 
 
 Thy whirlwinds may shriek — thy lightnings may flash, 
 
 Yet safe o’er thy bosom, old ocean, I’ll dash.” 
 
 Rio de Janeiro is built at the entrance of a bay one 
 hundred miles in circumference, intersected here and 
 there with small islands covered with evergreen. 
 The city contains about one hundred thousand in- 
 habitants, including the suburbs Gloria Hill and Bo- 
 tofoga. 
 
 The buildings are of stone, three or four stories 
 high, the streets very narrow and long, wearing an 
 unpleasant and sombre appearance, produced by the 
 wide-spreading and clumsy verandahs that disfigure 
 almost every street. Like the generality of Spanish 
 and Portuguese towns, it is extremely filthy, and for 
 the want of the indispensable conduits in cities, to 
 wit, sewers , the streets become the common receptacle 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 27 
 
 of excrementitious abomination and filth. The slave 
 population, and it is very considerable, is altogether 
 more miserable and wretched than any thing my im- 
 agination could have previously depicted. The 
 slaves are driven about the streets, yoked together by 
 dozens, with a necklace of iron almost as delicate 
 and slender as our chain cable, each carrying on his 
 head a ten gallon bucket of water, and some with 
 bags of coffee and other heavy loads on their heads. 
 All slaves are in a perfect state of nudity, except the 
 covering afforded by a small piece of dirty rag which 
 is tied about the loins. The noise which they make 
 when departing in droves from the public fountains, 
 gives the most perfect idea of a pandemonium that 
 can well be imagined. 
 
 The Emperor’s Palace is in full view from our ship, 
 and is opposite the only landing for boats on the 
 beach. I had paid it a visit, and taken a full view, 
 both interior and exterior. The fact that it is a pal- 
 ace, is the only thing that recommends it to a pass- 
 ing notice. 
 
 It formerly was the residence of the Vice Roy, and 
 for such a dignitary good enough. The present Em- 
 peror does not reside here, but has his palace in the 
 suburbs of the city. He is a young man of about 
 nineteen years of age ; his father, Don Pedro the first, 
 abdicated the crown, and he became the natural suc- 
 cessor when quite an infant ; — since that time the 
 kingdom of Brazil has been governed by a Regency. 
 
 Yesterday was his birth-day, on which occasion he 
 paid a visit to the city in commemoration of that 
 event. The streets, through which he passed, were 
 handsomely decorated with flags, artificial flowers 
 
28 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 and tapestry of different hues and shades. Arches 
 in several places were built across the streets through 
 which he passed on his way to the old palace, and 
 were decorated with every thing which the imagina- 
 tion could devise. The square in front of the pal- 
 ace was literally filled with spectators of all shades 
 and colors, anxiously waiting to get a glimpse of his 
 Royal Highness, as he entered the palace. This 
 novel scene did not attract my attention, and I saw 
 but little in it that was at all interesting, therefore I 
 did not remain long to gaze on it. The ships in the 
 harbor, as well as the city, were richly dressed in flags, 
 and at twelve o’clock a royal salute was fired from all 
 the batteries, and answered by the vessels of war in 
 the harbor. 
 
 But to return to the description of Rio. The pal- 
 ace is a parallelogram of about two hundred feet in 
 length and one hundred and fifty feet in front. It is 
 enclosed, but contains a court yard in the centre, on 
 one side of which is the Senate house, — the house of 
 Deputies being a mile distant in the Campo de Ac- 
 langao — and on the other a splendid church belong- 
 ing to the Carmonite monks, adjoining the beautiful 
 little imperial chapel. It is said that this church was 
 built by the late Empress Don Pedro, in consequence 
 of a vow made to the goddess of fecundity. The story 
 runs thus; — she had been married some time without 
 becoming a mother, and in a fit of united piety and 
 philoprogenitiveness, she vowed that should she be 
 served as Sarah of old was, she would build a church 
 on the glorious occasion. Her prayers were heard, 
 and she became a mother, and as truly did she build 
 this pretty little church as commemorative of this 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 29 
 
 miraculous event. This story is figuratively told by 
 six or seven statues of the Empress, placed in the 
 church in appropriate niches, on the right hand side 
 as you enter, beautifully modeled and richly decorat- 
 ed with diamonds ; all are arranged in the delineating 
 style, singularly indicative of the event which they 
 are designed to describe hieroglyphically. The his- 
 toric delineation is ingenious and skilfully develops 
 the different eras ; and the last one as you approach 
 the altar closes the representations, by presenting the 
 heavenly babe full of infantile beauty and plumpness, 
 in the joyous arms of the certainly handsome and 
 modest young Empress. 
 
 No person may deny but that this is a perfectly 
 natural scene, and also a truly modest one, to those 
 who are accustomed to look upon it as a miracle 
 rather than a mere picture of ' u the fancy;” but in a 
 country like the United States, where a rigid code of 
 delicacy is so strictly observed, certain things would 
 be viewed with horror, that in another are looked 
 upon coldly, as capable of exciting neither animal 
 passion or latent curiosity. 
 
 In fact, local custom is the only true standard of 
 delicacy, and as every country has its customs, so 
 has it also a different scale of modesty, and peculiar 
 motives of social intercourse. Take for example two 
 ladies, one a North, and the other a South American, 
 equal in their country’s refinement and cultivation of 
 mind, yet I dare affirm both would be simultaneously 
 shocked at each other’s want of delicacy upon many 
 occasions. This, of course, must be peculiarly ob- 
 servable in the inhabitants of isolated countries, where 
 intercourse to any considerable extent is impractica- 
 3 * 
 
30 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ble. Generosity, truth, gratitude and honesty, are 
 intrinsically the same in every section of the world, 
 but that which we understand by the name of mod- 
 esty, or female purity of action, varies with latitude 
 and climate, and in fact is almost provincial in its de- 
 finition. The South American lady, who jumps into 
 her saddle, rides off on horseback like a man, with a 
 poncho thrown gracefully over the shoulders, may 
 have as lofty notions of true delicacy as she who flirts 
 along Broadway or Washington street, attended by 
 one who apparently has as good a claim to a forest 
 origin as the noble animal upon which he rides, and 
 over which he seems to wish for a superiority, from 
 the fact that he is the director, not the directed. 
 
 Whilst one day standing in the church and looking 
 with a delightful eye upon some truly splendid and 
 masterly pieces of scriptural paintings, a corpse was 
 brought into the aisle and laid near the altar. The 
 friends of the deceased arranged themselves on each 
 side of the way from the door to the altar. No fe- 
 male was present, as I have elsewhere observed on 
 many like occasions. Wax candles were brought 
 and handed around weighing upwards of ten pounds, 
 which were six feet long, they having been previous- 
 ly lighted. The priests made a grand entry from the 
 sacriste, dressed in full splendor of sacerdotal attire, 
 some with service books in their hands and others 
 bearing gold and silver censers, which sent forth in 
 downy clouds, the combined odors of myrrh and 
 frankincense. The pall was removed, the coffin was 
 opened, and holy water sprinkled upon the satin 
 robes of the dead. I looked around me for tombs or 
 for the grave, but saw nothing of either. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 31 
 
 The priest carried the body three times round the 
 enclosure, and at last deposited it in a niche in the 
 wall, merely large enough for the coffin, and here 
 with a hammer and a trowel the masons completed 
 the interment. 
 
 It is no doubt known to some of our readers, and to 
 some it may not be, that Bonaparte sent from the court 
 of Portugal, King John and his wife to the court of 
 Brazil. King John was the first European monarch 
 who sat foot upon the American Continent. He 
 made Rio de Janeiro the seat of government, and dur- 
 ing his reign the court of Brazil was proverbially one 
 of the most licentious upon earth. King John him- 
 self was one of the greatest libertines that the world 
 ever produced, and stopped short of nothing to satisfy 
 his sensual pleasures. 
 
 I visited the shore on the 10th and again witnessed 
 the brutal manner in which slaves are treated. 
 Could the abolitionists of the United States witness 
 the evil of slavery, as it is seen in all its deformity 
 here, they might more strongly enforce their favorite 
 doctrine. Indeed, one who has been accustomed to 
 slavery from his childhood, as it exists in the United 
 States, might be shocked in walking the streets of Rio, 
 at the abject condition of the slaves, and the brutal 
 manner in which they are treated. When the slave 
 becomes diseased he is cast on the world, to get his 
 living in the best manner he can ; and many would 
 actually die from want, were it not for the charities 
 of the monastic establishments, and the small sums 
 occasionally contributed by strangers. I have fre- 
 quently been accosted by these pitiable objects, and 
 as I have thrown them a few vintons, a smile of joy 
 
32 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 would illumine their countenances, as if some dread 
 apprehensions had been removed from their mind. 
 Notwithstanding their charitable institutions, great 
 numbers die annually from their deplorable condition. 
 It is said that thousands of these miserable objects 
 are transported annually into this kingdom, although 
 it is a contraband trade. 
 
 Since our arrival, two slave vessels have been 
 brought into port by an English man-of-war brig. 
 
 Rio de Janeiro is celebrated for its many and mag- 
 nificent churches. The people generally are strict 
 Catholics, and droves of them may be seen every 
 morning entering the church to pay their early devo- 
 tions at the holy altar. The English and American 
 residents have a neat little church near the public 
 gardens, enclosed by an iron railing, with a yard in 
 front, paved with granite. It was built in 1820, and 
 will hold about five hundred people very comfortably. 
 The clergyman is of the Episcopal order, and is sup- 
 ported by the English and American residents and 
 by the English government. The city is ornamented 
 by several fountains made of granite, which are sup- 
 plied with water from the neighboring mountains, by 
 means of an aqueduct some miles in extent, similar 
 to those mentioned in Roman history. Tt is the best 
 specimen of architecture of which Rio can boast. 
 Several other public buildings are to be found here, 
 such as a Museum, a Public Library and a number 
 of convents. 
 
 Since our arrival here, Captain Wilkes has been on 
 shore with all of his scientific instruments, making 
 observations. 
 
 At nine o’clock, A. M., January 7th, a light wind 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 33 
 
 springing up we weighed our anchor and proceeded to 
 sea — squadron in company. We were now favored 
 with fine weather and a moderate breeze. At four 
 o’clock, P. M., we were just losing sight of the coast of 
 Brazil. The bleak and lofty mountains were fast re- 
 ceding from our view, and in a short time were en- 
 tirely swallowed up in the distance. The first part 
 of this month was peculiarly pleasant ; but we 
 were destined, however, to experience some little 
 change. How very illustrative of human life ! The 
 morning of the 15th set in cloudy, and at eight o’clock 
 A. M., commenced raining with considerable wind, 
 which soon increased to a gale. At ten o’clock all 
 hands were called to reef topsails, when we got a severe 
 pelting of rain. This, however, from its frequent oc- 
 currence, the sailor thinks but little of. His life is 
 emphatically one of toil and hardship. And yet amid 
 all of his privations, he receives comparatively but 
 little sympathy from those who are so dependent 
 upon him for the luxuries, and to some extent, the 
 necessaries of life. While the sensualist is feasting 
 upon the delicacies of distant climes, as the highest 
 gratification of which his nature is susceptible, like 
 the swine that feeds voraciously upon the bounty 
 shaken in plenty from above him, knows not and 
 cares not from whence they came, or with what toil 
 they were obtained. Appetite, beast-like, must be 
 gratified, and thoughts of the sailor are as unusual as 
 emotions of gratitude, in such depraved bosoms. Yet 
 a brighter day is about to dawn upon the sailor ; his 
 cries are to be heard, and his claims acknowledged. 
 
 We had at this time nearly the same kind of 
 weather that we generally have in the United States 
 
34 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 in the latter part of March. At ten o’clock, spoke the 
 American whaling ship Leander of New York, six 
 months and a half out, with three hundred and 
 twenty barrels of sperm oil. Shortly after, spoke a 
 Dutch brig bound to the Falkland Islands. 
 
 Just as we had finished our breakfast on the morn- 
 ing of the 21st, the appalling cry of “a man over- 
 board!” resounded throughout the ship. We imme- 
 diately hove to, and he being a good swimmer, reach- 
 ed the man-rope at the gangway in safety. 
 
 An effort to give a just description of scenes like 
 this, although, in this instance, we were unusually 
 fortunate, need not be attempted. It will prove a 
 failure. The feelings of one struggling against the 
 mighty power of overwhelming billows, with no 
 gleam of hope from his “ little world ” from which he 
 has been suddenly ejected ; tossed and driven upon a 
 wide expanse of waters — to appreciate the thick- 
 crowding emotions of one under such circumstances, 
 there must be something approximating nearer to the 
 reality than the tame and unmeaning recital of the 
 narrator. The gloom which pervades the surviving 
 crew, when even “one of the few” is taken hurried- 
 ly from them, is not easily described. Even the loss 
 of one , forms no inconsiderable fraction of such a min- 
 iature of the community. In the usual routine of du- 
 ties, it is often observed that one is far from them 
 and sleeps beneath the ever-restless bosom of their 
 chosen element. 
 
 Our latitude was now forty-one degrees south, tem- 
 perature ranging from sixty-five to seventy degrees. 
 A seal was seen playing in the wake of our vessel ; 
 this circumstance induced us to believe that land was 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 35 
 
 not far distant ; whales have been seen sporting about 
 in every direction, and also several sharks paid us a 
 visit alongside and waited on the top of the water 
 some moments for something to satisfy their vora- 
 cious appetites. 
 
 At daylight on the 25th, land was reported from 
 mast head, and at five o’clock we came to anchor in 
 five fathoms water, off Rio Negro, coast of Patagonia. 
 Immediately after dropping anchor we had a severe 
 gale of wind and rain, which induced us to make 
 speedy preparations to brave the dangers of an ocean 
 life. 
 
 After our arrival here, our scientific gentlemen 
 went ashore in quest of objects in their different de- 
 partments, and the other officers were busily engaged 
 in surveying, 6c c. There is a considerable Spanish 
 settlement on this coast, about twenty miles from the 
 mouth of the river, #nd also a village of from one to 
 two thousand inhabitants, the principal part of whom 
 are soldiers. The squadron, when it appeared off the 
 harbor, caused considerable excitement among the in- 
 habitants; the most of them fled into the country; 
 mistaking us for a French squadron, with which na- 
 tion they are at war. They soon found out their 
 mistake and returned. There is a monthly inter- 
 course from this port to Buenos Ayres, to which gov- 
 ernment this colony belongs. This region of Patago- 
 nia abounds in all kinds of game, excellent horses 
 and horned cattle. Our men brought off several ar- 
 madillos and young ostriches, and some ostrich eggs 
 for curiosities. 
 
 January 30th. This morning a strong gale sprung 
 up, blowing immediately on the land, which, from our 
 
36 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 exposed situation, compelled us to get underway and 
 beat out to sea. The Peacock in company ; also the 
 brig Porpoise — the two latter being compelled to slip 
 their cables and leave their anchors behind. 
 
 On the following day, however, the weather so far 
 changed, that we thought it advisable to return to 
 Rio Negro, in order to get a boat’s crew that had de- 
 serted from the boat and been left behind. 
 
 Having succeeded in regaining the men we again 
 got underway and stood out to sea; squadron in com- 
 pany. 
 
 The weather now begins to grow cool, the ther- 
 mometer ranging from forty-five to fifty degrees in 
 the shade on the spar deck, and between decks at 
 sixty degrees. 
 
 Our ship glides through the water like a thing of 
 life. At sunset there was a large school of porpoises 
 alongside, and we succeeded iii taking one, which 
 made a fresh “ mess ” for all hands. The flesh of the 
 porpoise has no appearance or taste of fish, but more 
 resembles beef; — only it is much darker. I tasted 
 some of it and liked it very much. Our latitude 
 about this time, by observation, was fifty degrees 
 thirty minutes south, and our longitude sixty three 
 degrees Ihirty minutes west. 
 
 At midnight of the following day, we had a partial 
 view of the rugged peaks of Terra del Fuego, and at 
 eight o’clock, A. M., entered the straits of La Maire. 
 The land here presents rather a dreary appearance ; 
 the high peaks on either hand are covered with per- 
 petual snow, although it is mid-summer here. At 
 sunset we passed the straits, and again entered the 
 open sea with land on the starboard bow. We hove 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 37 
 
 to off Cape Horn, the night being dark and bluster- 
 ing. 
 
 We made but little progress after weighing our an- 
 chor on the following morning, in consequence of the 
 unfavorableness of the weather. The country here 
 presents nothing but snow-clad mountains and barren 
 rocks : no sign of vegetation, except here and there a 
 stunted tree. 
 
 We were passing Cape Horn, within a few miles of 
 the shore, with studding sails set on both sides. It 
 is very seldom that such a thing happens, for Cape 
 Horn is denominated the “ stormy Cape,” as vessels 
 seldom, if ever, pass it without experiencing very 
 boisterous weather. It was cloudy and nearly calm 
 however, on the 17th, and we were engaged all day in 
 beating up to our anchorage. 
 
 After a weary and sleepless night in working the 
 ship up here, we dropped anchor about six o’clock in 
 the morning in sixteen fathoms water. This was a 
 most delightful day, thermometer in the shade, sixty 
 four degrees. The bay and country around had quite 
 a different appearance from what I expected. 
 
 At noon a native canoe came alongside, having on 
 board two men, one woman and a child, but we were 
 so busily engaged mooring the ship, that we could 
 pay no attention to them. 
 
 Here also our officers and scientific gentlemen went 
 on shore, and killed a number of geese, ducks, and 
 shore birds, but with the exception of one variety, 
 to which we gave the name of steam boat geese, are 
 much smaller than ours, and of a richer plumage. 
 
 The Relief was ordered from Rio de Janeiro to run 
 a line of soundings along the coast of Patagonia, and 
 4 
 
38 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 also to examine the shoals which are said to exist on 
 that coast. This work was performed much to the 
 satisfaction of Captain Wilkes. She stood several 
 times close in to the coast of Patagonia, and twice so 
 near that the lamas could be seen feeding in herds on 
 the declivities of the hills. She came to anchor twice 
 along the coast ; the harbors were unprotected from 
 the violence of the waves, therefore she could not re- 
 main at anchor long enough to examine the shores or 
 any part of the interior. 
 
 She visited most of the harbors in the straits of Le 
 Mair, which we passed without noticing, and had in- 
 tercourse with the natives. The principal one was 
 Good Success Bay. On the 2d January, she anchored 
 in this bay and in the evening Captain Long, accom- 
 panied by some of the officers and scientific gentle- 
 men, visited the shore. They landed in a cove near 
 the southern end of the bay, where they found a 
 stream of water about forty feet wide, which dis- 
 charges itself in the bay : — the water was of a dark 
 color, but of an excellent quality. Some of the party 
 attempted the ascent of the highest mountain. They 
 found the ascent, in consequence of the vegetation 
 and looseness of the soil, extremely laborious. But 
 by perseverance they succeeded in gaining the sum- 
 mit, when they found themselves amply repaid for 
 their trouble, in the romantic and picturesque scenery 
 which the country afforded. They had also a com- 
 manding view of the bay, and an indistinct view of 
 Staten Island, besides several small islands that in- 
 terspersed the bay. Some of the party took their guns, 
 expecting to find plenty of game, but were disap- 
 pointed, for not a living animal of any kind was seen. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 39 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Interview with the Natives — Orange Harbor — Interview with 
 another party of Natives — Return of a part of the Squadron — 
 Valparaiso — -The Cemetery. 
 
 u And over head 
 
 And all around, wind warred with wind, storm howled 
 To storm, and lightning, forked lightning crossed, 
 And thunder answered thsnder, mattering sounds 
 Of sullen wrath.” 
 
 Next morning we got underway and stood out of 
 the harbor with a fine breeze, but it soon died away 
 and the ship drifted back into the bay and we again 
 came to anchor. At six o’clock several natives were 
 seen coming near the ship, and in order to attract our 
 attention, commenced a piteous yell. This not a lit- 
 tle surprised them, for no sign of a native had been 
 seen on the preceding day. 
 
 Captain Long, accompanied by several officers, 
 left the ship in three armed boats for the purpose of 
 having communication with them. On landing, the 
 natives came running towards them and showed evi- 
 dent signs of their being welcomed to their shores, 
 and commenced crying u Cuchilb / Cuckillo /” and 
 as cuchillo is the Spanish for knives, and as Waddell 
 in his book says they have many Spanish words in 
 their language, it was thought at first that they were 
 asking if we have any knives to sell; but when 
 
40 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 knives were shown them, they still continued their 
 cries. When a looking glass was shown them and a 
 string of beads, they appeared pleased, but still the 
 word was kept up during the whole intercourse, and 
 it was impossible to learn its meaning. Our own 
 words they would easily repeat and even seemed to 
 understand some of them. They set great value on 
 steel and iron, and would readily exchange their 
 bows and arrows for a piece of iron hoop or a few 
 rusty nails : some of the arrows were neatly made, 
 with flint heads. 
 
 This party consisted of fourteen men, and with the 
 exception of the chief, were all young, well made 
 and good looking. They were full six feet high, well 
 modeled, and had very pleasing countenances. They 
 all had their hair cut short on the top of the head, 
 and their faces smeared with a kind of clay, something 
 like red ocre. Their dress consisted of a single guaco 
 skin, which, when put properly on, covered their 
 bodies as far down as the knees ; but they were not 
 pauicular on this point, and often exposed themselves 
 to a shameful degree. Most of them were troubled 
 with a disease of the eye, which may perhaps be at- 
 tributed to their long winters, when the ground is cov- 
 ered with snow, which dazzles their eyes in the open 
 air. It seems quite evident that they have had inter- 
 course with the Europeans before, for the report of 
 guns did not frighten them in the least. All endeav- 
 ors to entice them on board proved unavailing ; they 
 shook their heads and pointed to the woods, and then 
 ran some distance from the boat. 
 
 From here the Relief touched at New Island, and 
 came to anchor and examined the shore, but found no 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 41 
 
 natives. From the marks that were seen, it is very- 
 evident that natives had been recently there. 
 
 Her next place of anchorage was in a small bay 
 about twenty or thirty miles from Orange Harbor, 
 called Nassau Bay. They were there visited by na- 
 tives entirely different from those seen at Good Suc- 
 cess., She had scarcely got her anchor down when a 
 canoe full of natives came alongside, — three men, 
 one woman, and a child. Upon invitation, two of 
 them came on board without hesitation or dismay, 
 and Captain Long was not a little surprised to find 
 them so different from those seen at Good Success. 
 They spoke an entirely different language, were of a 
 low stature, ill shapen and desperately dirty. So 
 great indeed was the difference, that no room was 
 left for doubt but that those seen at Good Success 
 were natives of Patagonia, and had wandered there 
 in quest of game. 
 
 Orange Harbor is a large and spacious harbor, sit- 
 uated at the deep and extensive ha.y of Nassau, and 
 protected from the violence of the waves by a small 
 island called Burnt Island, on which the Relief had a 
 light house erected for the use of the squadron, should 
 they arrive in the night time. It is intersected by 
 many small bays or harbors, suitable for boats to en- 
 ter for wood and water. The most convenient one is 
 Dingy Cove, situated nearly at the head of the bay, 
 in which boats may enter and fill with wood, cut 
 from the banks. The neighborhood is plentifully 
 supplied with wood, but this is the most convenient 
 place to get a supply. Game is found here in great 
 profusion, and water in abundance, of an excellent 
 quality. This is the harbor where the celebrated cir- 
 4 * 
 
42 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 cumnavigator, Captain James Cook of the British 
 Navy, anchored and refitted ship previous to his An- 
 tarctic cruise, on his second voyage of discovery. 
 Subsequent explorers have anchored here and refitted. 
 
 Captain King of H. B. M. ship , has been on this 
 
 coast for several years surveying. He also made this 
 his rendezvous, and by him it was accounted tha best 
 harbor on the coast. 
 
 Pish are found here in great abundance, and of an 
 excellent quality. — as good, if not better than our pan 
 fish at home. The first few days after our arrival 
 we had very boisterous weather, but it soon became 
 more moderate. Early in the morning a canoe came 
 alongside with six natives, five men and one woman, 
 bringing with them spears and a necklace made of 
 shells, which they readily exchanged for pieces of 
 cotton and pieces of an old iron hoop. They were 
 invited on board, but at first, only one would venture. 
 This was a young man of about nineteen years of age 
 and rather good looking. They were evidently of 
 the same race as those seen at Nassau Bay. They 
 spoke the same language and dressed and walked 
 like them. The woman was old, ugly and as mus- 
 cular as any of the men, and with them partook of 
 an equal share of the labor of the paddle. They all 
 listened attentively to the flute and guitar, and even 
 attempted to imitate the songs accompanying the mu- 
 sic. Every new object they saw attracted their at- 
 tention. They were conducted to every part of the 
 ship, and shown every thing considered at all attrac- 
 tive. Their canoe was constructed of strips of bark 
 sewed together, and so frail and leaky that one had 
 constantly to keep bailing to keep it afloat. It was 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 43 
 
 about twenty-five v feet long and three wide. The 
 bottom was covered with a layer of clay about one 
 foot thick, and on which a fire was kept burning and 
 around which the indians were constantly hovering. 
 Our friends, the natives, left us about one o’clock, 
 P. M., and landed nearly opposite the ship, where they 
 built a large fire. 
 
 On the 25th of February, the United States Ship 
 Peacock, William L. Hudson, Esq. commanding, Brig 
 Porpoise, Charles Wilkes, Esq., commander in chief; 
 Schooner Sea Gull, Lieutenant Johnson, started on a 
 cruise to the Polar regions. As the Porpoise passed 
 out of the harbor, she was successively cheered by all 
 the squadron. The Vincennes, in charge of Lieu- 
 tenant Thomas T. Craven, was left in this harbor to 
 await the return of the Squadron. All the sick and 
 invalids from those vessels bound on a cruise, were 
 left behind for the purpose of recruiting. 
 
 At six o’clock, A. M., January 6th, the store ship 
 Relief got underway and stood out to sea, bound on a 
 cruise to the straits of Magellan. She had on board 
 a number of our scientific gentlemen, and also the fleet 
 surgeon, Doctor Gilchrist. 
 
 Since our arrival here we have generally experi- 
 enced milder weather than was expected in such a 
 high latitude. It is such weather as we generally 
 have in the United States in the latter part of Febru- 
 ary. We caught daily a plenty of fish and killed an 
 abundance of game. 
 
 We were again visited by a party of natives in 
 several bark canoes who came alongside, and upon 
 invitation a number came on board. As soon as they 
 came on deck their vociferation seemed to increase 
 
44 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 with their astonishment, and it may be added, their 
 pleasure ; for the reception they met seemed to create 
 no less joy than surprise. Whenever they received a 
 present, or were shown any thing which excited fresh 
 admiration, they expressed their delight in loud and 
 repeated ejaculations, which they sometimes contin- 
 ued till they were quite hoarse, and out of breath 
 with the exertion. The noisy mode of expressing 
 their satisfaction was accompanied by jumping, 
 which continued for a minute or more, according to 
 the degree of passion which was excited, and the 
 bodily power of the person who exercised it. The 
 old man was rather too infirm to express the full 
 amount of his gratitude, but still did his utmost to go 
 through the performance. 
 
 After some time passed upon deck, during which a 
 few bows and arrows, and one or two skins were 
 bought from them, they were taken down into the 
 cabin. The younger ones received the proposal to 
 descend rather doubtingly, till they saw that their old 
 companions were willing to set them the example, 
 and they then followed without fear. They were, like 
 our former visitors, almost in a perfect state of nudi- 
 ty. Still the women possessed an uncommon share of 
 modesty, and seemed perfectly conscious of their ex- 
 posed situation, for not one could be induced to come 
 on board, though presents were repeatedly offered 
 them as an inducement. There were one or two 
 children in the number, whom they seemed to treat 
 with great tenderness. A blanket was given to one 
 of the women, and she had no sooner received it, than 
 she wrapped it around her child. I was much aston- 
 ished to witness the modest behavior of these poor 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 45 
 
 savages, as quite the reverse might be expected from 
 beings so literally in a state of nature, and ignorant of 
 social intercourse. 
 
 We had much amusement with the men who came 
 on board. We dressed them up in sailors’ and ma- 
 rines’ clothing, and then took them before a looking 
 glass, that they might view their altered appearance. 
 
 The only word of their language that I could dis- 
 tinguish was 11 Yam Mali Scooud which words they 
 repeat when asking for any thing. They are a set of 
 poor, miserable beings, but very innocent; they did 
 not touch an article that was not given them. About 
 four o’clock they left the ship and encamped on shore 
 opposite to us. The only dwelling which we could 
 discover that they inhabited, was made of the 
 branches of trees. 
 
 March 13th. The natives paid us another visit 
 this morning, expecting to get another load of pres- 
 ents, but were disappointed. They had pulled off 
 the clothes that had been given them the day pre- 
 vious, and came as naked as when on their first visit. 
 This was done no doubt to excite our sympathy and 
 solicit charity. It is very surprising how these poor, 
 miserable beings can subsist, with but little covering 
 to protect them against the inclement weather which 
 prevails here during the entire year. Their principal 
 food is shell fish, which they procure during their 
 short summer, and dry in the sun, for the winter’s 
 supply. Yet another proof of the goodness of Him 
 who tempers the wind to the shorn lamb. Query, 
 would this not be a fit place for our philanthropic mis- 
 sionaries to exercise their ameliorating powers ? 
 
 From the date of my last remarks until the present 
 
46 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 period, the weather has been almost constantly bad; — 
 rain, hail and snow almost every day, with a con- 
 stant gale of wind. The indians seemed to have had 
 a knowledge of its approach, as they all left the coast 
 some days before it set in, and have not been seen 
 since. 
 
 On the 22d inst. the Schooner Sea Gull, Lieuten- 
 ant Johnson, arrived from the southern cruise, and 
 brought some curiosities, among which was the skin 
 of a sea lion, killed at the South Shetlands. 
 
 Two days afterward, the Brig Porpoise, Charles 
 Wilkes, commander in chief, arrived. He had visit- 
 ed during his cruise, the South Shetlands, Palmer’s 
 Land, and penetrated as far as the sixty-sixth degree 
 of south latitude, when he was surrounded on all 
 sides by innumerable icebergs, and field-ice. About 
 this time we had another visit from one of the natives, 
 who remained on board for a considerable time. He 
 afforded much amusement for us, and served to be- 
 guile the tedious monotony of our hours, in his at- 
 tempts to imitate and mimic our words and actions. 
 He seemed to be much pleased with the treatment he 
 received, but still seemed anxious to get with his old 
 companions. 
 
 At two o’clock, P. M., April 17th all hands were 
 called to get underway, and we dropped down to 
 Seapenham Bay, when the wind being light and un- 
 favorable, we again came to anchor, where we lay 
 but a short time. During the night all the watch 
 idlers, and all hands were startled from their slumbers 
 by the cry of u all hands ! ” who rushed on deck, and 
 found that we were close in shore and threatened 
 with a heavy squall. It however passed off without 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 47 
 
 reaching us. At daylight we had a light wind and 
 were just clearing the bay, and in sight of Cape Horn. 
 At four P. M., Cape Horn bore by compass N. sixty- 
 two degrees E., and False Cape Horn twelve degrees 
 W. In a short time we found ourselves in a milder 
 climate, and expected in a few days to be able to 
 reach Valparaiso. 
 
 At daylight of the 12th of May, the coast of Chili 
 was in sight, and shortly afterwards the lofty Andes 
 were dimly seen above the eastern horizon, probably 
 not less than fifty miles distant. Those lofty moun- 
 tains have been seen sometimes at a distance of one 
 hundred and fifty miles, particularly in a clear at- 
 mosphere before sunrise. The coast gradually rose 
 into view as we approached it, and on the following 
 day we were near enough to view its irregular form, 
 with pleasing anticipations. As we approached the 
 harbor of Valparaiso, the coast had the high and 
 checkered appearance of some of the bold promonto- 
 ries of New England, though with the aspect of great 
 sterility. When we came up with the Point of An- 
 gels, one object after another opened upon us, begin- 
 ning with a large white house where the Governor oc- 
 casionally resides for the purpose of inhaling the sea 
 breeze. Then are seen the habitations of the citizens, 
 stretching along above a sand beach, and then higher 
 up the acclivities, almost covering the steep hills, the 
 town is built. The name of the place, the “Valley 
 of Paradise,” is calculated to give one lofty expecta- 
 tions and prepare him for disappointment. If such a 
 place is paradise it must be paradise fallen ; as where 
 the holy pair were expelled by sin. 
 
 The soil in the vicinity of Valparaiso, for the most 
 
48 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 part, is very poor, and the irregular broken country 
 for miles around, has a peculiar desolate appearance, 
 from the most total absence of vegetation and foliage. 
 The long snowy range of the Andes, though so dis- 
 tant as to form a less impressive feature than my im- 
 agination had pictured, was still a very fine object, 
 and if it could have been contrasted with any thing 
 like an Italian foreground, would have been far more 
 enchanting. The everlasting snows of the Andes, 
 when viewed in particular lights, would gleam with 
 brilliancy, as if overspread with burnished silver. 
 And as we approached the harbor on the following 
 day. the sombre interest of the scene was heightened 
 by the chiming of bells for vespers, from the gloomy 
 monasteries of the town. 
 
 As soon as we had come to anchor, and every 
 thing was secured, the letter bag was brought on deck 
 and its contents emptied on the Quarter. This was 
 an anxious and interesting time, — every one waiting 
 in suspense for his name to be called for a letter. 
 Many of us had not heard from home since leaving 
 the United States. Many were doomed to disappoint- 
 ment, and myself among the number. 
 
 A few days after our arrival, I obtained permission 
 to visit the shore in company with a number of my 
 ship-mates. We landed at a pier which had been re- 
 cently built. This is the only place where a boat 
 can land without being in danger of being dashed to 
 pieces against the rocks, from the violence of the surf 
 which every where beats along the shore. 
 
 We were met on the pier by a motley set, princi- 
 pally Choloes , or country people, dressed in their 
 large ponchos, which very much resemble horse 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 49 
 
 blankets, with a hole in the middle through which 
 the head is thrust, so that the ends hang down be- 
 hind and before. The women of the lower order 
 were variously habited in dirty calico frocks, and 
 shawls of coarse baize, either green or crimson. A 
 short walk made me pretty well acquainted with the 
 town. It has one large street and one or two small 
 ones, and in common with most Spanish towns, has 
 its plaza , or public square, with the government 
 house and a range of houses on the opposite side. I 
 looked in vain, as I passed along the street, for some- 
 thing interesting among the inhabitants. 
 
 Mount Alegre is an eminence which rises abruptly 
 from the centre of the town, and, in fact, nearly over- 
 hangs it. This is the residence of many of the 
 wealthy foreigners, merchants, doing business in the 
 towns. From here the view is delightful; the har- 
 bor, with all the shipping and the surrounding coun- 
 try, affords a beautiful prospect, seldom surpassed. 
 There are several inns or taverns in the town, and 
 among the number two English and one French. 
 Those houses kept by Chilians seem to be naturally 
 dirty, as it is a characteristic peculiar to them. But 
 this is not the case with the houses of the old Span- 
 iards here, which are very clean and tidy. There is 
 no taste in the building of the town. The houses are 
 made chiefly of sun-burnt bricks, plastered outside, 
 and only one or two stories high, with red tiled roofs. 
 The bricks are generally two feet long, and one wide, 
 and very coarse. From what I observed, I should 
 judge their manner of making them might have been 
 similar to that practiced in Egypt by the Jews, in the 
 time of Moses. 
 
 o 
 
50 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 The ladies of Valparaiso — and they form but a 
 small portion of the whole in my estimation — are dress- 
 entirely different from those of the lower order ; but 
 none of them wear any hat or head dress, on ordinary 
 occasions. Their ringlets or curls hang down the 
 back in two long plaits, in some instances, nearly 
 reaching to the ground. 
 
 The public buildings in Valparaiso, are very few, 
 — a custom-house, a town-house, and a court-house 
 are the principal ones. Their places of amusement 
 consist of a theatre, poorly fitted up, and another old 
 building where they hold their “chingonoa dances.” 
 This is one of the most ludicrous amusements that 
 can be imagined, and I believe only the most aban- 
 doned portion resort there. Decency will not permit 
 me to describe the scenes that may be here witnessed. 
 Seraglios are numerous, and may be- found in almost 
 any part of the city. According to the number of in- 
 habitants, I never saw so many “ courtesans ” in any 
 place in my life ; still they all pretend to be devoted 
 Catholics. The people appear generally, hospitable 
 and kind to strangers. It is quite amusing to see the 
 country people coming in to market on their asses 
 and mules, with their feet reaching almost to the 
 ground, when, ever and anon, they would scourge the 
 poor animals with a long pole which they invariably 
 carry. The stirrups are made of wood, and almost 
 as large as a peck measure, — even these seemed to be 
 a load for the little animals. 
 
 The climate in Chili is very fine in summer, but in 
 winter is subject to heavy rains, and also very severe 
 gales of wind ; ships are driven from their moorings 
 and stranded on the beach. Among the most prevail- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 51 
 
 ing diseases are fevers. There are no slaves in the 
 Republic of Chili. 
 
 The navy has increased considerably in a very 
 short time. A squadron is now at Callao consisting 
 of two frigates, two sloops of war, and several smaller 
 vessels. This force has been recently employed 
 against Peru, in which rencounter they were victo- 
 rious. 
 
 During some of my subsequent visits on shore I 
 strolled out to the burying ground, situated on a high 
 hill which overlooks the town. On my way I passed 
 several crosses, erected, as I was informed, for the 
 purpose of eliciting prayers for souls in purgatory. 
 The grounds are enclosed by two mud walls : one of 
 those was appropriated to Catholics, or natives, and 
 the other to persons of a different faith. Attachecf to 
 the burying ground is a charnel house, which is liter- 
 ally a place of skulls. The dead are laid with their 
 heads to the west, in shallow graves, and for the most 
 part without either coffin or shroud. They are at 
 first only covered with a small quantity of earth, 
 which is beaten upon them with a billet of wood. 
 When the graves are filled, a wooden cross, in place 
 of a stone, is placed at the head to mark the spot. 
 But the bodies are very often left so much exposed as 
 to be nearly visible. The adjacent “ Protestant 
 Burying Ground ” presented quite a different aspect. 
 Many of the graves were marked, as in our country, 
 with neat marble slabs, bearing appropiate inscrip- 
 tions. Yet we were greatly shocked to learn that the 
 Protestant graves have been repeatedly violated, 
 either from malice or for plunder. I picked up sev- 
 eral coffin plates marked with names and dates, and 
 
52 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 I was assured on good authority, that one of my 
 countrymen, who had been buried here, had been 
 taken up and treated with great indignity. 
 
 There is but one road here, which leads to the city 
 of Santiago, the capital of Chili, situated about sixty 
 miles in the interior from Yalparaiso. Several im- 
 portant roads have been projected, but the face of the 
 country presents many obstacles, and improvements 
 of this nature must necessarily be gradual. This 
 country has enjoyed more peace than any of the new 
 Republics, and the natives are generally considered 
 superior to the Peruvians. 
 
 The government is a Central Republic. There are 
 no inferior sovereignties, like our States, or Mexico 
 and La Plata. The salary of the President is twelve 
 thousand dollars, and that of the Prime Minister three 
 thousand dollars. The people are in a prosperous 
 condition, and far more contented than they were 
 while under the oppressive colonial system of old 
 Spain. Education is in its infancy, but some atten- 
 tion has been bestowed upon it, and the first rudi- 
 ments of knowledge are pretty generally taught to 
 the young. 
 
 On our arrival here, we learned that the storeship 
 arrived at this harbor on the 13th of April, and lay 
 off and on for several days before she could come into 
 port, for want of anchors. She lost all her anchors 
 and chains in a violent gale of wind off Noir Islands, 
 where she came near being lost. The Peacock arriv- 
 ed here a little time before us, from her Antarctic 
 cruise. The Brig Porpoise and Schooner Flying 
 Fish came in with us ; but the Schooner Sea Gull is 
 still absent from the Squadron, and fears are entertain- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 53 
 
 ed for her safety, as, when she was last seen by her 
 consort, the Flying Fish, she was supposed to be in a 
 dangerous situation on a lee-shore, off Cape Horn. 
 She had on board a crew of thirteen men and two 
 officers. Passed Midshipman E. J. Reid and Mr. 
 Baker, were the two officers attached to her. Lieu- 
 tenant Thomas T. Craven was to remain here, to 
 take charge of the Sea Gull in case she should get 
 here in safety, if not, to go in search of her. 
 
 On the 5th of June, we got underway and stood out, 
 bound to sea. The Peacock and Brig Porpoise sailed 
 a few days since for the same port. Nothing worthy 
 of particularizing happened on our passage, which 
 was performed in fifteen days. On the 20th June we 
 came to anchor in the harbor of Callao under the Isl- 
 and of San Lorenzo. We found the U. S. S. ship 
 Relief, Peacock, Porpoise and Schooner Flying Fish 
 all at anchor here, also the U. S. S. Lexicon, the 
 Chilian Squadron, and one English and one French 
 frigate, besides a number of merchant vessels. No 
 news yet from the Sea Gull. 
 
 5* 
 
54 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 CHAPTER IY. 
 
 San Lorenzo — Epitaphs — Appearance of Natives and Soldiers — 
 “ Glorious Fourth ” — Funeral of one of our number — Discov- 
 ery of several Islands. 
 
 lc Saved from the perils of the stormy wave, 
 
 And faint with toil, the wanderer of the main, 
 
 But just escaped from shipwrecks billowy grave, 
 Trembles to hear its horrors named again. 
 
 How warm his vow, that ocean’s fairest mien 
 No more shall lure him from the smiles of home, 
 Yet soon forgetting each terrific scene, 
 
 Once more he turns, o’er boundless deeps to roam." 
 
 The prospect where we now lay was truly interest- 
 ing. We had a full view of the town and fortress of 
 Callao, an indistinct view of the spires and churches 
 of Lima and eight miles to the rear of Callao, and to 
 the rear of all, a lofty chain of the Andes, the lofty 
 tops of which were lost amid the clouds. The Island 
 of San Lorenzo, where we then lay, was formed by 
 the earthquakes of 1740, which destroyed the whole 
 city of Callao. It is a large mound or heap of sand 
 and stones, with no sign of vegetation. It is the 
 burying place of foreign seamen, who are not of the 
 Catholic faith, who die in this port. In the course of 
 my rambles on shore I copied some of the most strik - 
 ing epitaphs. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 55 
 
 “In memory of William Price, seaman; — on board 
 United States Brig Boxer, who died September 25th, 
 1830. 
 
 A mother’s eye will look, — but look in vain, — 
 
 For her lov’d son returning from the main; 
 
 He left his home to tempt the fickle wave, 
 
 And now reposes in a foreign grave. 
 
 Peace to his soul, an everlasting peace, 
 
 Where troubles come not, and pleasures never cease. ” 
 
 “ To the memory of Bryce Gringle, who departed 
 this life February 27th, 1837, on board United States 
 Brig Boxer. 
 
 Short was the summons to the dreary tomb 
 Of him who sleeps beneath this dreary sod, 
 
 The friend* he trusted crushed his early bloom 
 And sent him unprepared to meet his God. 
 
 No kindred wept above his youthful bier, 
 
 And stranger hands have placed this tribute here.” 
 
 “ To the memory of Thomas Hedrick, of the United 
 States Ship of the Line North Carolina, who departed 
 this life at Callao on the 13th, 1838, set sixteen 
 years. 
 
 In vain had youth its flight impeded, 
 
 And hope its passage had delayed; 
 
 Death’s mandate all has superseded, — 
 
 The latest order Tom obeyed.” 
 
 * He was murdered in his hammock by his best friend, his traveling 
 companion. He was an Italian, and in a fit of jealousy, perpetrated the 
 foul deed. His friend had given his u rations ” to another, and his exas- 
 peration could be quenched only by the murder of his companion. Com- 
 ment is unnecessary. 
 
56 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 “ Sacred to the memory of James Lawrence, late 
 seaman on board H. B. M. ship President, who de- 
 parted this life February 8th, 1838. 
 
 A worthy shipmate and a friend sincere, 
 
 In the cold, silent grave now resteth here ; 
 
 His warning was but short, — think of his fate, 
 
 Prepare for death before it is too late.” 
 
 “ Sacred to the memory of William Edwards, late 
 of the Royal Marines, on board H. B. M. ship Harrin, 
 who departed this life at Callao, November 29th, 1839. 
 
 I’m here at rest from busy scenes ; 
 
 I once belonged to the Royal Marines ; 
 
 I’m now confined within these borders, 
 
 Remaining here for further orders.” 
 
 New Callao, though the sea port of Lima, is, with- 
 out any exception, the most miserable looking place 
 I ever saw. The principal street, following the cur- 
 vature of the beach, is miserably paved, which renders 
 walking disagreeable. The rest, excepting the one 
 leading into the road to Lima, are narrow, dirty 
 lanes. The houses are generally of one story, con- 
 structed of reeds, plastered with mud, and white- 
 washed both inside and out ; — furnished with clumsy 
 wooden verandas and flag staff. The roofs are flat 
 and covered with the same kind of materials, which 
 form the walls; but instead of being preserved for 
 promenades, they are receptacles of all kinds of rub- 
 bish, such as rags, broken bottles 1 , demijohns tum- 
 blers, old baskets, rams’ horns, remnants of bedding, 
 and old boots and shoes. There are very few decent 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 57 
 
 houses in the place. The one occupied by the cap- 
 tain of the port makes the best external appearance. 
 The interior of the dwellings are generally filthy. 
 When passing by the door of the port surgeon, I was 
 struck with astonishment at its appearance; — a hen 
 and chickens were sitting in one corner of the office^ 
 where he was writing prescriptions for invalids. It 
 seems to be a natural disposition for all classes of 
 them to live in filth. The women belonging to the 
 higher order are at their toilette about five o’clock in 
 the afternoon, after which they either thumb the 
 guitar or sally forth for a pasio, or walk. In passing 
 their houses at any other time of the day, you see 
 them with their dress hanging negligently about their 
 persons, opened behind or exposing their bosom in 
 front, with their feet perched upon the rounds of a 
 chair, and perhaps swinging, or gazing upon the pass- 
 ing stranger. Before the door of many houses, may 
 be seen, exposed for sale by orange women, setting in 
 dishabelle on the pavements, the different kinds of 
 fruit peculiar to the climate; some mending their 
 clothes, while their naked children are playing with 
 the fruit. 
 
 It is not uncommon to see persons examining each 
 other’s heads in the immediate vicinity, if not over 
 the articles they have for sale. The multitude of 
 lazy, idle soldiers, consisting of indians, negroes and 
 mulattoes, lounging about the streets in every direc- 
 tion, fill the stranger with the most unfavorable im- 
 pressions. A few are stationed on the quay near the 
 landing; — the remainder sauntering about wherever 
 they choose. Their uniform is ridiculous. It usually 
 consists of a coat, and pantaloons of coarse, unbleach- 
 
58 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ed canvas, trimmed with black cord ; sometimes the 
 pantaloons are made of coarse red flannel, with nar- 
 row strips of black and yellow, extending down the 
 outward seam. They have a cartridge box, a bayo- 
 net and sometimes a gun. but are often without the 
 latter. A heavy leather bell-crowned hat, or cap, en- 
 closed in a case of white cotton, with a band of black 
 ribbon, completes the list of articles. The Peruvian 
 officers wear a rich uniform. They make a great 
 display of epaulettes and gold lace. 
 
 The contrast between the inhabitants of Peru and 
 the United States, was truly striking, and led me to 
 reflect with pleasure upon the superior advantages 
 enjoyed by the citizens of enlightened countries for 
 the cultivation of all those social enjoyments that tend 
 to refine society, and exalt the human mind. 
 
 I regretted very much that I did not have an op- 
 portunity of visiting Lima, the famed city of the “ 6 Five 
 Kings;” however I had my curiosity satisfied with 
 regard to their “ hello sexo” for I have had an op- 
 portunity of seeing them frequently in Callao. Those 
 which struck my particular attention were dressed in 
 the Saya y Manta , one of the most novel and unique 
 dress I ever saw worn. The universal walking dresses 
 of the ladies of Lima, is the Say a y Manta. It is 
 confined to this and a few other cities in South Amer- 
 ica. The Manta probably had its origin from the 
 moors in Spain. The Saya consists of an elastic 
 petticoat, made generally of satin or velvet, of black 
 or cinnamon color, plaited up and down in very 
 small folds, and so shaped as to fit very closely, 
 allowing the wearer merely room for walking with a 
 short step. The Manta is a hood of black silk, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 59 
 
 drawn round the waist, and carried over the head so 
 as to cover the whole upper part of the person. The 
 ladies usually wear it so closely as to expose only 
 one eye. Hence it becomes impossible to recognize 
 an intimate acquaintance when enveloped in the 
 Say a y Manta. 
 
 To these two garments are added a fine shawl, 
 with silk stockings and satin shoes, while a rose is 
 held in the hand. Some of the ladies on an evening 
 promenade, are seen in the English dress, with a 
 shawl thrown over their heads, but never with any 
 thing like a bonnet or hat. Within the city, the cas- 
 tles, which are two, are the only public buildings of 
 note. 
 
 There are no schools in Callao and but few in Li- 
 ma, and but little thirst for acquiring knowledge is 
 manifested by any of the native Peruvians. Revolu- 
 tion after revolution has kept the country in a con- 
 stant state of excitement, and prevents them from 
 having any settled government. Anarchy reigns 
 throughout the whole country of Peru. 
 
 On the 24th of June all the crew of the Relief, except 
 the invalids, were transferred to this ship, and their 
 places filled by invalids and superannuated seamen 
 from the different vessels of the Squadron, who are to 
 be sent home. 
 
 July 4th. “ Peruvian dew” prevails extensively. 
 It never rains here, but at this season of the year the 
 atmosphere is very humid, and sometimes the air is 
 so damp as to wet through thick cloth in a very short 
 time. 
 
 The ship was dressed on the 4th, commemorative 
 of the “declaration of independence.” At twelve, 
 
60 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 A. M. a salute was fired on board the Falmouth, and 
 immediately the English ship Samorang answered it. 
 “ The glorious fourth ” was not forgotten, though we 
 were far from the land that gave us birth, — the land 
 that we love as the home of the free, and the asylum 
 of the oppressed. The associations of home are sel- 
 dom forgotten, especially when those associations are 
 of a thrilling nature, like those that marked the 
 struggle of our fathers for freedom. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 8th, Benjamin Holden, late 
 marine on board United States store-ship Relief, at- 
 tached to the Exploring Expedition, who departed 
 this life yesterday, on board the Peacock, to which 
 ship he had been transferred as Purser’s Steward, was 
 conveyed to the Island of San Lorenzo for interment. 
 The funeral obsequies were performed by Mr. Elliot, 
 our chaplain. The corpse was accompanied to the 
 place of sepulture, by a guard of marines and two or 
 three officers. 
 
 All things being ready, at five o’clock, July 13th, 
 we got underway and stood out to sea, all the squad- 
 ron in company. On the following day, the Com- 
 mander in Chief’s general order was read on the 
 quarter-deck, in the presence of all the officers and 
 crew, respecting their conduct towards the natives 
 of the savage islands which we were about to visit. 
 
 I anticipated this to be the pleasantest part of our 
 cruise, for we expected to visit many strange islands 
 and have much intercourse with their inhabitants. 
 
 After leaving Callao, we had delightful weather, 
 passing through the most pleasant climate in the 
 world. For days together not a cloud was visible; 
 the atmosphere was as clear as a crystal and the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 61 
 
 stars were shining brilliantly. A combination of 
 such rare beauty and sublimity was sufficient to in- 
 spire the mind with awe and veneration. 
 
 At half past 12, Aug. 1st, Alexander Ogle, corporal 
 of marines, breathed bis last. He had been sick only 
 a few days, with an affection of the brain. At three - 
 o’clock, P. M. all hands were called to bury the dead, 
 having been previously ordered to appear in white 
 mustering clothes. This was the first time many on 
 board had witnessed a burial at sea. It was a mel- 
 ancholy and imposing sight. A canvas hammock 
 both served for a coffin and a shroud. The body 
 was inclosed in it in connection with two thirty-two 
 pound shots placed at the feet, and a rough plank was 
 the only bier, while an ensign was the pall. The 
 corpse was borne to the lee gangway by the mess- 
 mates of the deceased. All was still. The chaplain 
 stationed himself near the corpse, and commenced the 
 beautiful and impressive burial service of the Episco- 
 pal church. At the words, “We therefore commit 
 his body to the deep,” we heard the plunge, and a 
 momentary silence, and an expression of solemnity 
 was apparent among the crew. The rite of sepul- 
 chre ended, silence pervaded the ship for a little space 
 of time, and then all was again bustle and confusion. 
 
 On the 13th, we made Mount Tenin Island. Du- 
 ring the day we were engaged in surveying it. This 
 island is low and composed of corals, with a coral 
 reef surrounding it. The surface of the island is cov- 
 ered with low shrubbery and high grass. Some of 
 our scientific gentlemen, by dint of swimming through 
 a strong surf, succeeded in reaching the shore, where 
 some specimens of shell, coral, & c. were obtained. 
 
 6 
 
62 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 No natives were seen at this time, but as there had 
 been evident signs of natives seen the day before, and 
 our party not knowing their disposition, desisted from 
 venturing far into the bushes, fearing a rencounter 
 with them. 
 
 On the following day Captain Wilkes, accompa- 
 nied by several officers and scientific gentlemen, with 
 a strong party of armed men, left the ship with the in- 
 tention of visiting the shore, and, if a landing could 
 be effected, to examine the interior of the island, and 
 have intercourse with the natives. For the further- 
 ance of this object he had provided himself with 
 some presents for the natives in order to gain their 
 esteem and confidence. As the boats approached the 
 shore they found that the natives had assembled to * 
 the number of a hundred or more, and posted them- 
 selves along the beach, armed with spears, clubs, and 
 bows and arrows; and indicated their intention to 
 attack them should they presume to land. They 
 were evidently savages in the wildest state, and from 
 their movements, we were induced to believe that 
 they never had seen white men before. Captain 
 Wilkes endeavored to make them understand the in- 
 tention of his visit and his friendly disposition toward 
 them, but all to no purpose. They persisted in their 
 determination to resist, and oppose our landing. 
 They were all perfectly naked, men. women and 
 children indiscriminately. Our party thinking to in- 
 timidate them, fired several of their pieces loaded 
 with small shot among them ; this, instead of having 
 the desired effect, only served to irritate them more. 
 The effect produced by the small shot was very 
 slight, probably not entering the skin ; it only made a 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 63 
 
 smarting sensation for a few moments. They re- 
 treated to the bushes for a short time, and then re- 
 turned, manifesting their anger in loud yells and 
 hideous grimaces. Captain Wilkes finding it impos- 
 sible to reconcile the natives, and not wishing to shed 
 innocent blood, gave up the idea of forcing a landing,* 
 and therefore soon after returned to the ship. 
 
 On the following day we made the Island of Hon- 
 den, and at dark, hove to for the night. In the morn- 
 ing we commenced the survey of it. This island is 
 small and unimportant, except as it lays in the track 
 of vessels bound to more important islands. It was 
 surveyed by Captain Wilkes, and its position correct- 
 ly laid down on the chart. The bearings of the most 
 important points were taken, and the soundings 
 about the reefs ascertained. We caught three large 
 turtles, a species that grows very large ; some arrive 
 to an enormous size. Those that we caught weighed 
 about two hundred pounds. Some specimens of 
 beche-le-mer were obtained and cured for the govern- 
 ment. 
 
 At meridian, on the 22d inst. we discovered an- 
 other island, and at five o’clock came up with it. A 
 white flag was flying on shore, an emblem of peace 
 among the islands. At dark, tacked ship and stood 
 on and off during the night. In the morning boats 
 were sent to survey it, which was completed by ten 
 o’clock, and we stood on our course. 
 
 On the 24th August, made Disappointment Island, 
 one of the islands belonging to the Dangerous Archi- 
 pelago. At three o’clock a canoe came along, filled 
 with natives, but we could not prevail on any of 
 them to come on board, although presents were offer- 
 
64 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ed them. They were shy, but offered no signs of 
 hostility. In their external appearance they much 
 resemble the Clearmont Island natives. They were 
 stout looking men, well proportioned in all respects, 
 and the most of them were young, but very dirty. 
 They wore their hair long, which was coarse and 
 black, and hung down the back. They were in a 
 perfectly denuded state, except a piece of dirty tappa 
 passed round the waist. At twelve a boat was sent 
 on shore with presents for them in charge of an officer. 
 When on shore the natives showed no signs of fear, 
 as they did while alongside of the ship in their canoes. 
 They accepted the presents and seemed to be very 
 thankful. In return, they sent on board some speci- 
 mens of shells and a few of pearl. Next morning we 
 left Disappointment Island ; and at meridian on the 
 same day^ discovered King’s Island, so called after 
 the look-out man, who discovered it. It is a small 
 island, about four or five miles in circumference, and 
 in breadth not more than one. Its rise from the wa- 
 ter to the most elevated spot, is not more than twenty 
 feet. Its shores are every where marked with gener- 
 al sterility. The most remarkable spot is a lagoon 
 of fresh water, which runs through nearly the whole 
 extent of the island. A small aperture runs into 
 the south end, by which the congregated waters of 
 the laguna are poured into the sea. This laguna 
 abounds in fish of a great variety ; some were caught, 
 and found to be extremely well flavored. They 
 made quite an agreeable change, after having lived 
 upon “salt junk ” for two months. This island was 
 surveyed, and the bearings of some of the most re- 
 markable points taken. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 65 
 
 On the following day, 31st August, we made Rara- 
 ka Island, and about nine o’clock came up with it. 
 At ten, Captain Wilkes went on shore, and returned 
 shortly after, bringing with him three natives, one of 
 whom was a chief. The chief was an old man, — I 
 should judge, about sixty years of age. 
 
 On the 1st of September, we made and passed a 
 chain of low islands called the Dangerous Archipel- 
 ago. At four o’clock, we came up with a small isl- 
 and, which, not being found on any chart, Capt. 
 Wilkes called u Vincennes Island,” after the name of 
 the ship. It is situated in the latitude of 15 deg. 48 
 min. south, and, like its neighbors, is very low. It is 
 of coral formation, and surrounded by a coral reef. 
 None of these islands afford any anchorage for ves- 
 sels of the smallest size, and no safe landing even for 
 boats. 
 
 At 9 o’clock, Sept. 3d, came up with Karlshoff Isl- 
 and. Lowered a boat and sent ashore, which soon 
 returned with three natives, who informed the captain 
 that hogs, fowls and cocoa-nuts might be obtained at 
 this island. In the evening a boat was sent on shore 
 for the purpose of obtaining a supply of water. She 
 returned with about , five hundred gallons of very ex- 
 cellent water. This was found in a lagoon in the 
 middle of the island. The water was good for pre- 
 sent use, but will not keep long at sea, owing to its 
 being impregnated with animalcules, which putrify 
 and cause it to be decomposed. On this island we 
 found a partial supply of cocoa-nuts and breadfruit, 
 which, together with the fish, constitute the principal 
 food of the natives. 
 
 At 9 o’clock, Sept. 8th, came up with Fly Island. 
 
 6 * 
 
66 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 Two canoes came off, bringing with them a present 
 of shells for the Expedition. This island is small, 
 and rises gradually from the sea to sixty or seventy 
 feet, in the centre. It is thickly covered with bread- 
 fruit and lofty cocoa-nut trees. The acclivities of the 
 rising ground were handsomely variegated with shrub- 
 bery and green verdure. 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 Island of Matavai — Visit of the Consul — Expedition — Sermon by 
 Rev. Mr. Wilson — Conduct of the American Consul — Treaty — ■ 
 Interview with the Natives — Description of the Islands — Traits 
 of the Inhabitants — Effects of Missionary labor. 
 
 u Unmixed with aught of meaner tone, 
 
 Here nature’s voice is heard alone ; 
 
 When the loud storm, in wrathful hour, 
 
 Is rushing on its wings of power, 
 
 And spirits of the deep awake, 
 
 And surges foam, and billows break, 
 
 And rocks and ocean-caves around, 
 
 Reverberate each awful sound 5 
 
 That mighty voice, with all its dread control, 
 
 To loftiest thought shall wake thy thrilling soul.” 
 
 Mrs. Hemans. 
 
 At 9 o’clock, Sept. 9. the high and rugged peaks of 
 Matavai Island were seen to emerge from ocean, and 
 as we approached them, became more and more visi- 
 ble, while the surrounding objects were becoming more 
 and more interesting until the mountain tops were 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 67 
 
 seen above the clouds. This island is exceedingly 
 fertile, producing lofty cocoa-nut trees, and the sides 
 of the mountain are covered with dense vegetation, 
 extending down the acclivity nearly reaching the wa- 
 ter’s edge. It affords, as one approaches it, one of the 
 most beautiful, picturesque and romantic landscapes 
 that we have yet met with any where among the isl- 
 ands. 
 
 At 10 o’clock we anchored, and commenced sur- 
 veying it. We saw two beautiful villages along the 
 coast, only a mile or two apart. These villages are 
 embowered in breadfruit trees, which protect them 
 from the scorching sun of a tropical climate, and sup- 
 ply the natives with food, which they have only to 
 pluck from the trees overhanging their habitations. 
 There are several missionaries, natives of Otaheite, 
 residing here, who, by their influence and example, 
 have done much to convert them to the Christian re- 
 ligion. In each village they have a neat little chapel. 
 Deciding to leave at 5 o’clock, we made sail and stood 
 for Otaheite, distant about fifty miles. 
 
 On Tuesday, 10th Sept., after a pleasant voyage, 
 we came to anchor in Matavai Bay, off Point Venus. 
 The island of Otaheite is the most important one of 
 the Georgian Group. We had scarcely come to an- 
 chor when the ship was plentifully furnished with 
 necessary supplies from the canoes which literally 
 surrounded us. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival at this island, we were 
 joined by the Peacock, with which we had parted 
 some days previous. We were all busily engaged in 
 making preparations for our contemplated observa- 
 tions, and also in fitting up temporary accommoda- 
 
68 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 tions for the sick of the squadron. The queen kindly 
 offered the use of a fine airy house on Point Venus 
 for this purpose. This is the place where the cele- 
 brated English circumnavigator, Capt. James Cook, 
 observed the transit of Venus, and since that time, in 
 honor of the circumstance, it has been designated by 
 that name. 
 
 On the 12th, an expedition for an exploration of the 
 interior of the island, consisting of the following per- 
 sons, was projected : — Dr. Pickering, Naturalist ; Mr. 
 Peal, Zoologist ; Mr. Breckenridge, Horticulturist ; 
 Dr. Guillon, Meteorologist; Lieut. Emmons, Hydrog- 
 rapher ; Serg’t Stearns, Ass’t Naturalist Dep’t ; Sam- 
 uel Sutton, seaman, Taxedermist ; John Brooks, sea- 
 man of the Vincennes, and one seaman from the Brig 
 Porpoise ; Mr. Lewis, resident at Papiete, as interpre- 
 ter and guide ; and eight natives, to carry baggage. 
 
 The object of the expedition, as far as I could learn, 
 was as follows. First, to visit the lake, situated on 
 the most elevated part of the island, and then, if pos- 
 sible, to reach the highest extremity of the mountain ; 
 ascertain the productions of the country, — vegetable, 
 marine, mineral, and animal. Also, to visit all places 
 celebrated in history, learn something of their inhabi- 
 tants, former mode of worshiping places; obtain all 
 natural and artificial curiosities worthy of notice ; 
 survey the lake, and make specific and general obser- 
 vations on the manners and customs of the islanders. 
 
 As we approached the land we were delighted with 
 the verdure, luxuriance and beauty of the landscape, 
 opening to us a beautiful, fertile country, and a hand- 
 somely built native church. The land about the 
 beach to the southward and westward, is very low, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 69 
 
 while that to the northward and eastward is mode- 
 rately high. The bay is about two miles wide and 
 one deep, perfectly safe and easy of access. The 
 country is beautifully sprinkled with trees of lofty 
 cocoa-nut growing so near the beach that their roots 
 are denuded by the surf ; and a little back from the 
 shore are to be seen breadfruit, pananas, and ti, and 
 handsomely variegated with shrubbery and parasitical 
 plants of the richest foliage. Cocoa-nuts here are very 
 abundant, and afford a very grateful beverage to the 
 weary traveler, and is an excellent drink in a hot 
 day. The land begins to rise a few miles back from 
 the village, and continues its rise for fifteen or twenty 
 miles, extending to a thick wood, encircling Obreno. 
 The beach is covered with varied vegetation. 
 
 The mission-hou ie is pleasantly situated about one 
 hundred yards from the beach, obscured from our 
 view by a skirt of wood, growing on a small stream 
 which runs parallel with the beach, embowered in 
 the branches of the wide-spreading breadfruit trees, 
 the fruit of which overhangs their habitations, where 
 they have only to go out of their houses and pluck it 
 as they want it for use. The chapel is situated a few 
 hundred yards from the beach, and about the same 
 distance from the mission-house. It is a building ca- 
 pable of holding one thousand persons. Mr. Wilson 
 is the missionary here, and the oldest one on the isl- 
 ands. He was among the number who visited this 
 island in 1812, and was sent out by the London Mis- 
 sionary Society. 
 
 I had the curiosity to visit the chapel a few days 
 since, and was much amused at the vocal perform- 
 ance. The chapel is a large, airy building, but in 
 
70 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 rather a dilapidated state. I was told that the audi- 
 ence was not as numerous as on ordinary occasions, 
 numbering only about four hundred. They all be- 
 haved in a very becoming manner, and gave unusual 
 attention to the remarks of the preacher. The na- 
 tives were better clad, generally, than I expected to 
 find them ; and some of the females manifested con- 
 considerable taste in their dress. Mr. Wilson, so far 
 as T was able to judge in listening to his sermon in an 
 unknown tongue, is a good preacher ; at least he is a 
 good orator. At the close of the service, great regu- 
 larity was observed in leaving the house ; the people 
 waited for each other till all could leisurely retire. 
 Captains Wilkes and Hudson, and many of the offi- 
 cers, were present. The hymns which they sung 
 were all set to English tunes. 
 
 There was something peculiarly touching in this, 
 however trifling the circumstance may seem to the 
 reader. Imagine the peculiarity — not to say awk- 
 wardness of our position — while listening with appa- 
 rent interest, to a sermon of which we could not un- 
 derstand a syllable, not even able to determine wheth- 
 er it was the promulgation of divine truth, or pagan 
 superstitions, from any thing that we could detect. 
 As the service advances, the hymn is announced, read 
 in the same Babel-like language, and as its measured 
 strains fall upon the ear, we detect the harmony of 
 il Old Hundred,” u Mear,” or “ St. Martin’s,” which, 
 perchance, have greeted our dawn of existence, and 
 quieted us in the restlessness of childhood ! Who 
 will wonder that such music has power to call up 
 pleasing associations? Who will wonder that our 
 attention was riveted upon that native choir, while 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 71 
 
 the cherished events of other days came crowding 
 thick around us ? 
 
 Mr. Murenhaut, now French Consul, but formerly 
 American Consul, visited us during our stay in this 
 place. About twelve months ago his wife was mur- 
 dered, and he came near being killed, by a Peruvian 
 whom they had in their employ. It appeared that it 
 was his intention to rob the house, after he had fin- 
 ished his atrocious deed. The blow that killed his 
 wife was intended for him ; when she saw it aimed 
 at him, she interposed herself between the murderer 
 and her husband, and received the blow, which caused 
 her death almost instantaneously. The murderer 
 was apprehended, tried and convicted for it, and suf- 
 fered death ten days after the sentence was passed on 
 him. He was hanged. This is the first execution 
 that has taken place on this island for some years. 
 
 About twelve months since, two French Catholic 
 priests arrived on this island, and, without the con- 
 sent of the government, commenced to teach the Cath- 
 olic religion to the poor natives. But as soon as the 
 Q,ueen was informed of it she strenuously opposed 
 their proceedings ; of course she was advised by the 
 Protestant clergy to discountenance the religion, — tell- 
 ing her that they worshiped idols and images, and 
 would in a few years be masters of the island. She 
 ordered them to depart from her dominions by the 
 first opportunity; but they heeded her not, and de- 
 layed their departure when an opportunity offered, 
 until they worried the patience of the Queen. Find- 
 ing that the mild and persuasive orders were not no- 
 ticed, she determined to force them away. Accord- 
 ingly she called a council of chiefs, and her adviser, 
 
72 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 Mr. Pritchard. It was agreed that a small vessel 
 should be chartered for that purpose, and in her they 
 should he sent to South America, where the Catholic 
 religion was tolerated. The priests when hearing 
 that they were To be forced away, moved to the house 
 of Mr. Murenhaut, the American consul ; he had pre- 
 viously promised them protection under the American 
 flag. The authorities of the island sent and had them 
 forcibly taken away, and conveyed on board the ves- 
 sel, which was destined to take them away, and they 
 were conveyed in safety to the coast of South Ameri- 
 ca, at the expense of the Tahitian government. 
 
 For this act of self-preservation and right, the king 
 of the French sent a Frigate, and extorted from them 
 two thousand dollars. On account of this affair, the 
 President of the United States turned Mr. Murenhaut 
 out of office. He was shortly afterwards appointed 
 consul for the French. 
 
 While at this place a council was held at the vil- 
 lage of Papiete for the purpose of forming a commer- 
 cial treaty between the United States and the govern- 
 ment of the Society Islands. Queen Pomarri could 
 not attend on account of indisposition, and therefore 
 sent her representative. Most of the officers of the 
 squadron were present, dressed in full uniform, cocked 
 hats, swords and epaulettes. The treaty was formed 
 and signed by both parties, and I believe proved sat- 
 isfactory to all. 
 
 Having finished the survey of the harbor, and com- 
 pleted the series of observations at the observatory on 
 Point Yenus, we got underway and proceeded to Pa- 
 piete, the principal village on the island, situated 
 about five miles from Matavai Bay, where we arrived 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 73 
 
 on the same evening. The harbor of Papiete is safe, 
 commodious, and easy of access. There were then 
 lying here three American whale ships, one missionary 
 brig and one trading brig. The harbor is protected 
 from the violence of the waves by a coral reef. As 
 you enter the harbor, you pass on the right side of an 
 old mud fort, in a dilapidated state. The land in the 
 vicinity of Papiete is much higher, and rises more 
 abruptly than at Matavai Bay. The shores are gen- 
 erally clothed in green verdure, extending within a 
 few yards of the water’s edge. It has a beautiful and 
 rich appearance; the village is a neat one, situated 
 about the middle of the curvature of the beach. It is 
 composed of several wooden buildings, built and 
 owned by foreigners, one native church, and a neat 
 seamen’s chapel, built near the water. The native 
 houses are about two hundred in number, built of 
 bamboo, in the shape of our hay stacks at home, leav- 
 ing both ends open. All the furniture they possess, 
 is a few folds of tappa , and one or two mats on which 
 to lie, with a block of wood for a pillow. The mis- 
 sionaries have a flourishing village here, and have the 
 principal control of the island. 
 
 At 11 o’clock, Mr. Pritchard, English consul, and 
 formerly principal missionary to this island, preached 
 on board. He was accompanied by his lady, and two 
 interesting little girls. Many of the foreign residents, 
 and two of the chiefs were present. Mr. Pritchard is 
 the Queen’s adviser ; — is consulted on all occasions of 
 importance, and what he decides upon, she never re- 
 fuses to sanction. Mr. Pritchard sometimes preaches 
 in the seamen’s chapel, as there is no seamen’s chap- 
 lain here. This is a great resort for our whalemen, 
 7 
 
74 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 who come here for the purpose of recruiting, and 
 sometimes for repairs. 
 
 During our stay we were honored by a visit from 
 the principal chiefs, and two Tahitian princesses, 
 sisters to Queen Pomarri, — also by the English and 
 American consuls, the English consul acting as in- 
 terpreter. The two princesses were neatly attired in 
 light frocks, made after the European fashion, with 
 pink waist, ribbons and straw bonnets, and shoes, 
 with silk stockings. Some of the principal chiefs 
 were neatly dressed in plain citizen’s clothes, made 
 also after the European fashion, but the inferior chiefs 
 and attendants wore nothing but tappa wrapped round 
 the waist, serving for trowsers ; while some of them 
 wore nothing but shirts. The two princesses behaved 
 very modestly, but appeared quite at their ease. 
 After partaking of a sumptuous entertainment, which 
 was prepared for them in the cabin, they visited the 
 different parts of the ship, attended by the officers. 
 At almost every step something attracted their atten- 
 tion, on which they would stop and gaze till they 
 were invited to look at something else. After visiting 
 the different parts of the ship they retired on shore ; 
 but before leaving, Capt. Wilkes made them some 
 handsome presents, and also some presents to their 
 attendants. Among the presents to the two princess- 
 es was a musical box to each, with which they were 
 highly delighted. 
 
 The Island of Tahiti, and all the Society Islands 
 are under the jurisdiction of Queen Pomarri, and from 
 her the power and charge of the different governors 
 and chiefs of districts are derived. The royal resi- 
 dence was once in this village, but since her troubles 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 75 
 
 with the French priests, she has changed it to the west 
 side of the island, where she lives a more retired life, 
 and considers herself more safe from the encroachment 
 of her enemies. 
 
 Common People. This class constitutes all that- 
 portion who are not ranked with the chiefs and land- 
 holders, which is about two thirds of the whole ; the 
 latter are an entirely different people in their manners 
 and external appearance. Their labor is not exten- 
 sive, for the spontaneous productions of the islands 
 are enough for their support at all seasons of the year; 
 hence it is to be expected that they live a very indo- 
 lent life. The universal dress for the females of the 
 common order, is a piece of tappa , calico, or cotton 
 cloth, fastened loosely around the waist, and covers 
 the whole of the lower portion of the body as far down 
 as the knees ; the chest and shoulders are always 
 left bare, which they take great pride in exhibiting to 
 the public. Some few of the common class may be 
 seen dressed in frocks. Shoes are a luxury that but 
 few of the fair sex aspire to ; however, for comfort, 
 their climate is so mild that they do not require them. 
 The men have their hair cut short on the top of the 
 head, and some, shaved quite closely. 
 
 The whole mass of the native population may be 
 called merely nominal Christians, although the whole 
 of them profess Christianity. Missionaries have at 
 length found out their mistake in regard to the reli- 
 gious principles and actions of the natives. The fe- 
 males are generally extremely salacious, much more 
 so than the men. Polygamy is not allowed to be 
 practiced openly, but adultery prevails secretly to an 
 unknown extent. There is no doubt but prostitution 
 
76 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 is carried to a greater length now, than when they 
 were in a state of pagan darkness. The inquirer 
 would say, what is the cause of this ? I would an- 
 swer. they have more wants to supply, since they 
 have become acquainted with the civilized world; 
 luxuries they never dreamed of when in their natural 
 state. And they have no means of obtaining them in 
 any other way. Consequently you will find men 
 prostituting their own daughters, and very often the 
 wife, for a dollar. Precocity exists here among the fe- 
 males in an eminent degree, and is manifest to a greater 
 extent than in any place I have yet visited. It is not an 
 uncommon thing to see mothers at the age of twelve, 
 and old women at the age of twenty-four. 
 
 Sept. 25th. At daylight we weighed anchor, and 
 stood over for the beautiful and romantic little Island 
 of Eimeo, distant about fifteen miles from Papiete. 
 At 1 o’clock we came to anchor close in shore, and 
 near the principal village and missionary station. 
 The harbor of Eimeo is open and exposed to the west- 
 erly winds ; however, it seldom blows with such vio- 
 lence as to do any damage to shipping. 
 
 The natural productions of this island are nearly 
 the same as at Otaheite. There are some very high 
 mountains on this island; some rise abruptly from 
 the sea to the height of twelve hundred feet. The 
 coast is composed of lofty, craggy peaks, overhanging 
 the surf-beaten shore. When approaching this island, 
 from the first view, it presents a sterile aspect ; but 
 on a nearer approach, one finds the appearance 
 changed, and the prospect more lively and animating ; 
 and when you enter the mouth of the harbor, you 
 perceive the acclivities of the mountains clothed in 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 77 
 
 green verdure and dense vegetation. Then the val- 
 leys open to your view, presenting lofty cocoa-nut 
 trees, breadfruit trees, and ornamented with a variety 
 of fruit trees. Oranges, limes and pine apples were 
 ripe, and in great abundance. 
 
 The missionaries here have a beautiful station, and 
 fine field for the exercise of their labors. They have 
 two schools, and a printing press in full operation. 
 Messrs. Simpson and Scott are the Missionaries who 
 reside here. It is said to be the birth-place of the 
 husband of the present Queen, and when she married 
 him, he was only a common native. I noticed a dis- 
 ease among these islands, which appears to be more 
 common here. It is “ Elephantiases,” which the na- 
 tives call Fe. This disease has its principal action 
 on the lower extremities, and extends upwards, some- 
 times till the whole thigh is affected ; but I have never 
 seen more than one limb affected at a time. I saw 
 one so swollen that it measured thirty-six inches in 
 circumference. 
 
 After having completed the survey of the bay, on 
 the 27th Sept., got underway and proceeded to sea, 
 steering W. N. W. At sunset passed the Island of 
 Herniene, another of the Georgian Group. This 
 island is small and unimportant. On the 28th, we 
 passed a number of the Georgian Group, all of which 
 were small, but covered with vegetation. 
 
 On the 9th of Oct, we arrived at the Island of 
 Opoun, and the surveyers and scientific gentlemen 
 commenced their respective duties immediately. 
 There was but little of importance on this island. 
 
 During the evening a number of canoes came along- 
 side, with natives ; bringing cocoa-nuts and other 
 7 * 
 
78 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 fruit, for trade. On rounding the point of islands we 
 discovered Toufon and Leon, two small islands west 
 of Opoun. These islands form a group called the 
 Tomalooah Islands ; the natives are the same in all 
 respects as those of the Navigator Islands. We en- 
 gaged in surveying, in the meantime carrying on a 
 brisk trade with the natives for fruit and specimens of 
 shells, giving them tobacco and fish-hooks in ex- 
 change. Powder they were very anxious to get, but 
 this we would not let them have, fearing serious con- 
 sequences. We were informed that a destructive war 
 had been raging between these two islands, which 
 caused the extermination of one half of the natives of 
 both islands. 
 
 There were several white men living on the island 
 to which the natives belonged, who were alongside. 
 They appeared to be abandoned, runaway sailors, who 
 had deserted from whale ships that had touched here 
 for supplies of fresh provisions. They informed us 
 that the natives treated them well ; they had land 
 given them, but would not allow them to intermarry. 
 
 After leaving Opoun, we next directed our course 
 to Tutuilla, one of the Navigator Islands, and an- 
 chored in Pan go Pango Bay, on the south side. All 
 was still and quiet on shore, from the fact — as we af- 
 terwards learned — that it was their Sabbath. Reli- 
 gious services were performed on board of the ship, 
 on the following day, by our Chaplain, in accordance 
 with our custom during the Expedition. Indeed, we 
 have not met with any natives, however degraded, 
 who had not some vague views, at least, of a Power 
 superior to themselves. And it is questioned whether 
 such can be found. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 79 
 
 The natives of the Navigators resemble those of the 
 Society Islands in their complexion and features, but 
 there is a great difference in their language. Their 
 huts are built in the same shape and constructed of 
 the same materials. I saw some females engaged in. 
 their domestic occupations, such as making mats, 
 tappa , fishing nets, &c. They appear more industri- 
 ous than the females of Tahiti. In some parts of the 
 island polygamy is still practiced, but at this village 
 it is openly discountenanced by all the chiefs and the 
 people. No man, of whatever rank he may be, is al- 
 lowed to have more than one wife. The missionaries 
 should have the credit of abolishing this practice. By 
 their laws the crime of adultery is punished with 
 death ; this rigid law causes their chastity to be pre- 
 served inviolate. Seldom indeed does a case of adul- 
 tery occur; but when it does, if the offenders are de- 
 tected, they never fail to suffer the penalty of the law. 
 The females are very reserved in their manners. I 
 was struck with admiration and astonishment at the 
 conduct of these females, on all occasions. They 
 never suffer any liberties to be taken with them, and 
 seem particularly cautious in their intercourse with 
 foreigners. Salaciousness does not exist here, with 
 the females, in such a high degree as at many other 
 islands which we have visited, and particularly Ota- 
 heite ; neither is precocity so common. 
 
 The whole mass of the natives on this part of 
 the island, where the influence of the missionaries 
 is felt, seems to be fast advancing to a state of civ- 
 ilization. They manifest a kind disposition, and 
 have a mind susceptible of cultivation, and a thirst 
 for knowledge is universal among them ; especially 
 
80 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 at this village. The missionaries have wrought a 
 great change in the morals of these people in a very 
 short time. Mr. Murray is the missionary who has 
 charge of this station, and a polished gentleman he is 
 too. He is devoted to the missionary cause, and in- 
 defatigable in his labors to cultivate and sow the seeds 
 of the Christian religion in this once benighted land 
 of Pagan darkness. He has two flourishing schools 
 here, in each about three hundred scholars. He is 
 assisted by native teachers, whom he has instructed 
 in the common rudiments of knowledge, and implant- 
 ed the true religion in their hearts. Mrs. Murray, his 
 wife, is equally interested in the missionary cause, 
 and is also at the head of a female seminary, where 
 she teaches the native women the mode of manufac- 
 turing their own clothes and making straw bonnets, 
 in which some of them have become quite proficient. 
 I saw many of her pupils dressed very neatly in their 
 own manufacture. They present quite a pleasing 
 contrast to their neighbors, the “ devil tribe,” who re- 
 side only a short distance from them. This tribe has 
 refused to be instructed by the missionary, and still 
 remains in their primitive state ; and though only a 
 few miles off, never visit their Christian neighbors. 
 
 On the following Sunday after our arrival, Mr. 
 Murray preached on board this ship ; he was accom- 
 panied by his wife, and one or two missionaries from 
 other stations on the island. 
 
 We again joined our consort, the Peacock, at Apia, 
 and also the missionary Brig Campden, which had 
 been in company with us at Otaheite. This is the 
 most fertile and by far the handsomest island in the 
 whole group. The land rises gradually from the sea- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 81 
 
 shore; it breaks into mountains and ridges that are 
 covered with rich foliage and green verdure almost to 
 their summit. The shore abounds in tracts of table 
 land, beautifully sprinkled and variegated with clumps, 
 groves and single trees of the breadfruit, pandanas, 
 and cocoa-nut trees, forming thick and deeply shaded 
 bowers, overhanging the habitations of the natives. 
 Several villages are scattered along the coast, with 
 here and there the residence of a missionary, and a 
 missionary chapel. 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 Visit of the Christian party — Appointments of the Consul — The 
 Samoa Group — Trial of a Native — Embarking of the Squad- 
 ron — Wallace Island — Arrival at New Holland — Inhabitants. 
 
 u O, when no more the sea-winds rave, 
 
 When peace is brooding on the wave, 
 
 No sounds but plaintive melodies 5 
 Soothed by their softly mingling swell, 
 
 As daylight bids the world farewell, 
 
 The rustling wood, the dying breeze, 
 
 The faint, low rippling of the seas, 
 
 A tender calm shall steal upon thy breast, 
 
 A gleam reflected from the realms of rest.” 
 
 On the following day we were visited by the prin- 
 cipal chief of the Christian party, who was accom- 
 panied by his wife and two interesting little daugh- 
 ters. together with a number of inferior chiefs and at- 
 
82 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 tendants. The principal chief is a man of about 
 thirty years of age, and of copper color. He was 
 attired in a round-about jacket, made of blue cloth, 
 with pantaloons of the same, a white vest, white 
 shirt, fur hat, and shoes, which constituted the whole 
 of his wearing apparel. His wife was dressed in a 
 calico frock, straw bonnet, but wore no shoes. Her 
 husband looked like a boy by her side, in consequence 
 of her unusual corpulence. The two daughters were 
 more gaily attired; they wore gingham frocks with 
 waist ribbons, straw bonnets and morocco shoes. 
 The inferior chiefs and attendants wore nothing but 
 their native tappa : wrapped around the waist so as 
 to cover all the lower portion of the person. They 
 behaved themselves with much more propriety than 
 might have been expected from beings who have so 
 lately emerged from Pagan darkness. After visiting 
 the different parts of the ship, they were entertained 
 in the ward-room, where a sumptuous collation had 
 been provided for the occasion. They ate heartily, 
 but drank very sparingly of wine. On the following 
 day the principal chief, attended by a number of his 
 inferior chiefs, dined in the cabin. They were at- 
 tended by Mr. Williams, junior, as interpreter. Du- 
 ring his stay on board several large guns were fired, 
 which somewhat alarmed him at the first fire, when 
 he came immediately on deck, and seemed to be in 
 much confusion; but was soon reconciled by Mr. 
 Williams, who assured him that no harm was in- 
 tended him. 
 
 After dinner Captain Wilkes and Captain Hudson, 
 with most of the officers, accompanied the King and 
 chiefs on shore to the mission-house, where from one 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 83 
 
 to two thousand natives had assembled to witness the 
 exercise of small arms of a party of our marines and 
 seamen, who had been sent on shore for that purpose. 
 I was astonished to see such an assemblage of na- 
 tives, mostly dressed in the native costume, wearing 
 no clothing but a piece of tappa around the waist. 
 They were doubtless as much astonished and amus- 
 ed at seeing us perform our military evolutions. At 
 first they crowded around us very eagerly, but at a 
 signal from the old chief, they retreated, and took up 
 their position at a sufficient distance to allow us room 
 for exercising, marching, firing, &c. Several rounds of 
 blank cartridge were fired, which much pleased the 
 natives. 
 
 On the same evening Mr. Williams, junior, was ap- 
 pointed American consul, or agent for the Samoa 
 Group, and the American flag hoisted at his house. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS AND OBSERVATIONS ON THE SAMOA 
 GROUP. 
 
 This extensive and populous group is situated in 
 the South Pacific Ocean, and extends four degrees east 
 and west. It was discovered on the 4th of May, 1678, 
 by the French circumnavigator, Bougamville, who 
 gave it the name it now bears, probably on account 
 of the superior construction of their canoes, and 
 their surprising dexterity in the water. The group is 
 called by the natives Samoa, and consist of eight isl- 
 ands, — Manua, Orogangi, Ofu, Tutuilla, Upolu, Mau- 
 ona, Aborima, and Savaii. In addition to these, there 
 are several small islands off the coast of Tutuilla and 
 Upolu. In the year 1788 this group was visited by 
 the unfortunate La Parouse, whose colleague, M. de 
 
84 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 Langley and a number of his men, lost their lives by 
 being barbarously murdered by the natives. This 
 tragical act conveyed such an impression of their 
 treachery and ferocity as deterred subsequent voyagers 
 from venturing among them. And for many years 
 they appear not to have been visited by any vessel 
 from the civilized world until a very late period, when 
 a missionary station was established here, and the 
 Rev. Mr. Williams was among the number who first 
 filled this station. Tutuilla, the first of the Naviga- 
 tor islands where we visited, is about fifteen miles 
 west from Orogangi, in 171 deg. west longitude, and 
 14 deg. 20 min. south latitude. This is a fine roman- 
 tic Island, of from eighty to one hundred miles in cir- 
 cumference. It was here that the unfortunate M. de 
 Langley lost his life ; and on this account the hay in 
 which he was murdered received the name of Massa- 
 cre Bay. In passing down the coast you pass some 
 fine bays, — the most conspicuous and important is 
 Pango Pango, in which our squadron rendezvoused 
 for a few days, whilst engaged in surveying the isl- 
 ands. Into this bay vessels of almost any class’ may 
 run, and anchor in perfect safety, except during a 
 strong south gale. 
 
 Opolu, the next island, in circumference is about 
 seventy miles. The mountains on this island are 
 very high, and in clear weather may be seen fifty or 
 sixty miles. These are richly covered with verdure 
 to their summit, and in the north-east part of the isl- 
 and, they present a variety in their form and charac- 
 ter, which in some instances renders their appearance 
 romantic and sublime; in others, soft, luxuriant and 
 beautiful. It has been stated that there were no har- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 85 
 
 bors in this group, but at this island alone, we found 
 them and surveyed them. The one at Apia, in which 
 we anchored, is commodious, spacious and safe ; and 
 as it faces to the north, it admits, with the prevailing 
 trade winds, of easy ingress and egress. The bottom 
 is sandy, and at twenty-five yards from the beach 
 there are about five fathoms of water. A river runs 
 into the bay, so that any quantity of fresh water may 
 be obtained of an excellent quality. 
 
 A council of chiefs was held on board the Peacock 
 for the trial of a native who had been accused of the 
 murder of an American citizen, about twelve months 
 before. On the arrival of the Peacock the accused 
 was delivered up to Capt. Hudson, and since that 
 time has been in double irons on board that vessel. 
 He was found guilty by the council, and sentenced to 
 be executed, but through the influence of Captains 
 Wilkes and Hudson, his sentence was commuted to 
 banishment for life to Wallace Island, and the Pea- 
 cock was deputed to convey him to his exile home. 
 
 At 1 1 o’clock on the 1 1 th, a signal was made for the 
 squadron to get underway, and by 2, our sails were 
 spread to the breeze of heaven, and we shortly after 
 lost sight of the beautiful coast of Upolu. Favored with 
 a strong breeze we made rapid progress on our course, 
 and at 4. P. M., on the 12th, we came up with Wal- 
 lace Island for the purpose of landing the prisoner 
 whom we had brought from Apia. A number of ca- 
 noes came off to us, and in one was a chief, to whom 
 the prisoner was given in charge, with strict injunc- 
 tions that he should not be killed, or suffered to es- 
 cape. 
 
 From the view I had of Wallace Island, I should 
 
 8 
 
86 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 say it was very fertile, and capable of much improve- 
 ment. The Island seemed to abound in breadfruit 
 and cocoa-nut trees, with a thickly covered surface of 
 vegetation. The natives are a savage-looking race, 
 and are said to be very barbarous. 
 
 November 15th. We were in the eastern hemis- 
 phere. Since leaving the United States, we had gain- 
 ed a day by our time, which is always the case when 
 vessels double Cape Horn, but when coming round 
 the East Cape they always lose a day. On the 18th, 
 we passed Mathew's Island. It is a small barren isl- 
 and of about one or two hundred yards in circumfer- 
 ence, of a circular form, and is about 400 feet above 
 the surface of the water. It is situated in the latitude 
 of 22 deg. 30 min. south, longitude 172 deg. east. 
 
 After a short passage we discovered a light, which 
 proved to be that of Sydney, New Holland, where we 
 came to an anchor on the following day. In the 
 morning the citizens were not a little surprised to see 
 a “ Yankee Squadron ” anchored close under one of 
 their principal batteries. And they were still more 
 astonished that we should escape the sight of 
 their supposed vigilant pilots. They have hitherto 
 considered themselves perfectly secure from silent in- 
 truders, as no vessel had ever entered there, either by 
 day or by night, without the assistance of a pilot. 
 
 We were visited, on the morning after our arrival, 
 by Mr. Williams, American Consul. He informed us 
 that the Relief had sailed from here ten days previ- 
 ous to our arrival, bound to the United States, whith- 
 er she had been ordered. During the day> several 
 English officers visited the ship, to exchange civilities 
 with the officers. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 87 
 
 We soon commenced our accustomed survey and 
 collection, which were among the more prominent 
 objects of the Expedition. In the mean time ample 
 repairs were made, with necessary arrangements, pre- 
 paratory to our voyage to the southern hemisphere, 
 where we might expect to combat the rigors of the el- 
 ements in their rudest aspects. 
 
 I visited the shore, and in my rambles met with 
 some of the aborigines, — the most miserable beings I 
 ever saw. They more resemble baboons than human 
 beings. Those natives are so little known in our part 
 of the world, that I have availed myself of the oppor- 
 tunity of getting information concerning them from 
 different sources, all of which will be fotmd interest- 
 ing. 
 
 The following account is from Mr. F. Armstrong, 
 Botanist, who has traveled much among them and 
 understands their language, and probably knows more 
 of their character than any other man. 
 
 None of the tribes with whom the interpreter has 
 had communication, seems to have any just idea of a 
 God. He has very often attempted to convey to them 
 the idea of a Supreme Being, the creator of themselves 
 and every object of their senses, present every where 
 and at all times, — watching the actions of all men ; 
 adding, that good men, at death, ascend to him in 
 the sky, but that bad men (instancing those who 
 spear and murder others) are, when they die, banish- 
 ed from his presence forever. Their answer has gen- 
 erally been, “ But how will God get us up to him in 
 the sk^? Will he let down a long rope for us? 
 What shall we live upon there? is there plenty of 
 flour there? Are there earth and trees there?” He 
 
88 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 has endeavored to meet this difficulty by describing 
 the Deity as a being of infinite power, capable of do- 
 ing any thing that appears quite impossible to man. 
 
 They have but little idea of a future state of rewards 
 and punishments, as/ the result of their conduct in 
 a prior existence. They believe that the spirit, or 
 “ goor de mit 77 of deceased persons passes immedi- 
 ately after death through the bosom of the ocean, to 
 some unknown and distant land, which becomes 
 henceforth their eternal residence. But in this re- 
 spect, the arrival among them of the whites has led 
 to a total change of creed. For they very soon re- 
 cognize among their new visitors many of their de- 
 ceased relatives and friends — a delusion which exists 
 to this day as strong as ever. They confidently re- 
 cognize several hundreds of the colonists by their coun- 
 tenances, voices and former scars of wounds. 
 
 They are quite positive that the reembodied spirits 
 of Yogan, who was shot along with another, are al- 
 ready returned in the shape of two soldiers of the 21st 
 regiment. The obstinacy with which they persist in 
 this conviction, that the whites are all incarnations 
 of the spirits of some departed relations or friends, is 
 so great, that, notwithstanding the great confidence 
 that they usually place in the interpreter, he has 
 never been able to persuade them to the contrary ; at 
 least the old persons, — but the young ones begin to 
 have their faith shaken on this point. The names 
 generally applied to the whites, when speaking 
 among themselves, is u diango , 77 or the dead. 
 
 They have shown some curiosity to know what 
 sort of a place the land of the dead is, but not as 
 much as might be expected. They have asked the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 89 
 
 interpreter to sit down and tell them the names of 
 such of their relatives as he saw there, and have often 
 asked after particular individuals, whether the in- 
 terpreter knew him or her, or whether he is soon com- 
 ing back. He has never been asked whether the 
 state of the dead was that of happiness or misery. 
 They have often asked on what the spirits live, 
 whether they have plenty of flour, whether the flour 
 brought by us is dug out of the earth there ? They 
 have seen wheat ground into meal in the colony, but 
 they will not believe that the settlers have the power 
 of changing that brown mixture into the same white 
 flour that the ships bring here. What animals, trees, 
 &c., there are in that country ? Whether the country 
 was too small for us, or what other cause brought us 
 here ; whether we were not very sorry to leave our 
 friends there? 
 
 They consider the Malays, Lascars, &c., whom 
 they have seen here, to be, like the whites, returned 
 spirits of some of their ancestors or friends, but who, 
 from some unaccountable cause, have returned still 
 black, and are regarded by them with evident dislike. 
 They attribute the change of complexion in the 
 whites to their ghosts having passed through so much 
 water on their trip through the ocean. They consid- 
 er each settler to be a resident on the district of that 
 tribe to which, in his former state of existence, he be- 
 longed. On being asked how they came to spear the 
 settlers if they considered them as their ancestors or 
 friends, they have answered, that upon the whole, 
 they consider they have treated the settlers well, for 
 that, if any stranger had attempted to settle among 
 them in the same way, they would have done all 
 8 * 
 
90 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 in their power to destroy them. With respect to 
 the change thus wrought in their views of a future 
 state, many of them look forward to death as a posi- 
 tive gain, which will enable them to come back with 
 guns, ammunition and provision. They firmly be- 
 lieve in the existence of evil spirits, called by them 
 11 Metagong” which prowl about at night and catch 
 hold of them, if they go away by themselves from 
 the fire where the rest of the party sleep, as to bring 
 water from the well, &c., by throwing its arms around 
 them. The interpreter has met with several, who 
 say they have experienced it, but he has never heard, 
 though he has put many questions on the subject, 
 that any injury has been the consequence. Yet they 
 certainly stand in great awe of it. They represent it 
 to be occasionally visible, of human shape, of im- 
 mense size and of such prodigious strength as to ren- 
 der resistance vain. The night-bird which the set- 
 tlers call cuckoo, and the natives u pogomit” is re- 
 garded by the latter as the cause of all boils and erup- 
 tions on their bodies, which they believe it to produce 
 by piercing them with its beak in the night time, 
 while they are asleep. The li waugal ” is an aquatic 
 monster, whose haunt is in deep waters. They de- 
 scribe it as having very long arms, long teeth and 
 large eyes, and assert it to have destroyed many lives. 
 They give a confused account of its shape, but from 
 what they have said to the interpreter, their concep- 
 tion appears to be of a creature like an immense alli- 
 gator. It inhabits deep waters, salt or fresh, and 
 almost every lake or pool is haunted by one or more 
 of such monsters. It is quite certain that they do not 
 mean the shark, for which they have a different name, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 91 
 
 and of which they have a superstitious dread; and 
 besides, it is never seen in the fresh water lakes. 
 
 There are certain round stones in different parts of 
 the island which they believe to be eggs laid by the 
 u waugal .” In passing such stones, they are in the 
 habit of stopping and making a bed for them of leaves, 
 but with what precise object, has never been ascertain^ 
 ed. They believe most sincerely, that certain indi- 
 viduals among them possess the power, by magic or en- 
 chantment,, of healing any sores, severe wounds, pains 
 or diseases; and also of effecting at their pleasure, 
 any malady or distemper, of which rheumatism, ul- 
 cers, and sores are the most common. These sorcer- 
 ers are further supposed to have the power of raising 
 the wind, and of conducting the thunder to strike 
 their enemies. But they do not know whether this 
 is an acquired faculty, or natural endowment. The 
 ceremonies used by the sorcerers in exerting their 
 magic powers, are blowing, snorting, making hideous 
 grimaces, and loud ejaculations. Allied to this magic 
 power is another, which they attribute to some among 
 them, whom they think has the power to doom, or 
 devote others to a sudden death. This is believed to 
 be inflicted by the person having the power of doom, 
 creeping on his victims like a snake, and pressing the 
 victim’s throat between his two thumbs and fingers : 
 the death may not be for some time, but the spell has 
 not the less deaclly effect. They have several minor 
 superstitions, viz., that a fire must not be lighted at 
 night, or stirred with a crooked stick, or otherwise 
 some young child will surely die; to burn the blood of 
 a wounded person, makes the sufferer worse and en- 
 dangers others. The mungite , or flo wer of the honey 
 
92 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 suckle, must not be eaten too soon in the season, or 
 bad weather will surely follow. The relatives of a 
 deceased person will not sleep on the spot where his 
 blood was shed for months afterwards, nor until a 
 victim has been sacrificed to appease his shade ; and 
 the same avenging ceremony takes place in all cases, 
 whether the deceased died a natural death or not. 
 They pretend, however, to say that this intimation to 
 the deceased of having been avenged must be thrown 
 away, according to another of their superstitions al- 
 ready mentioned, by which he must be on his passage 
 through or across the ocean. In one case, in which 
 the body of a deceased European was opened at 
 Pearth by his medical attendants, and as bad weather 
 immediately came on, the change was confidently at- 
 tributed to that operation ; and they continued to 
 speak in terms of great horror at such treatment of 
 the dead. 
 
 There are certain hills, which they consider un- 
 lucky to pass over, and all that pass over them will 
 surely die. They have some wild and fabulous tra- 
 ditions of their own origin. They believe their earli- 
 est progenitors to have sprung from Emus, or been 
 brought to this country upon the back of crows, but 
 from where, the legend does not add. It is invaria- 
 bly believed that their women conceive in conse- 
 quence of the infant being conveyed by some un- 
 known agency into the womb of the mother from 
 somewhere across the sea. When a person is asleep 
 or in a deep slumber the interpreter has heard them 
 say of him, “now he is away over the water,” mean- 
 ing as he has collected from them, that the spirit or 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 93 
 
 mind which had come here an infant, had gone back 
 to its own country. 
 
 A tradition is also current among them that the 
 whole native population of this country in distant 
 ages, was confined to the mountains ; that the differ- 
 ent tribes now occupying the plain between the 
 mountain and the sea, are the descendants of a very 
 few families, who migrated into the country’s plain 
 at a comparatively late period- but when asked if 
 any rumor had been handed to them of their plain 
 having been covered with the sea before that migra- 
 tion, they have laughed at it. 
 
 They assert, too, that the language of the mountain 
 tribes, which now differs considerably from that of 
 the tribes of the plain, was at one time their univer- 
 sal language, and that their own dialect is derived 
 from the former. It is a remarkable fact that the 
 mountain dialect is still invariably preferred and used 
 for all purposes of a public nature or general interest, 
 — such as their formal public worship or discussions, 
 chanted narratives of battles and hunting matches. 
 
 It is a known fact that there is no trace of civil 
 government among those with whom the settlers 
 have come in contact. There is no supreme authori- 
 ty in peace or war, vested either in any individual as 
 a chief or any body of individuals. A family is the 
 largest association that appears to be actuated by 
 common motives or interest. They recognize the 
 right of property among them, both as to land and as 
 to their movable effects : but they are by no means 
 scrupulous in appropriating to their own use, any lost 
 property which they happen to find. In such cases 
 they make no inquiry about the owners, but take 
 
94 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 some pains to conceal what they have found. The 
 only mode of enforcing their proprietary rights in 
 cases of trespass by hunting or theft, is an appeal to 
 arms ; in such cases however the thief stands on an 
 equal footing, and is not bound to give the aggrieved 
 any advantage as in certain other cases. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Murder of Rev. John Williams — Sydney — New South Wales — 
 Embarkation — Gale — Dangers of Southern Latitudes. 
 
 “ Muttering, the winds at eve, with blunted point, 
 
 Blow hollow-blustering from the south. Subdued, 
 
 The frost resolves into a trickling thaw. 
 
 Those sullen seas, 
 
 That wash th’ ungenial pole, will rest no more 
 
 Beneath the shackles of the mighty south 3 
 
 111 fares the bark with trembling wretches charged, 
 
 That tossed amid the floating fragments, moors 
 Beneath the shelter of an icy isle, 
 
 While night o’erwhelms the sea, and horror looks 
 More horrible. 
 
 The roar of winds and waves, the crush of ice, 
 
 Wow ceasing, now renewed with louder rage, 
 
 And in dire echoes bellowing round the main.” 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 December 2d, the Missionary Brig Campden ar- 
 rived, bringing intelligence of a melancholy occur- 
 rence which took place last month at Eramanga, one 
 of the New Hebride Islands ; and in which the Rever- 
 end John Williams, who resided here a short time 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 95 
 
 since, and a Mr. Harris, lost their lives. The follow- 
 ing account is given by the English vice consul for 
 the Samoa Islands, Mr. Cunningham, who was pas- 
 senger on board the Campden, and narrowly escaped, 
 by running for his life to the boat. 
 
 On the 19th of last month, we had communica- 
 tion with the natives of Tanna, one of the New Heb-' 
 ride Islands. Finding the natives willing to receive 
 instruction from our teachers, we proceeded to the 
 Island of Eramanga, expecting to find a similar re- 
 ception, but the result has fatally proved the reverse. 
 We intended making the S. W. side of the island, 
 but it was late in the evening before we came up 
 with Dillon’s Bay. We therefore rounded to for the 
 night, and in the morning we found ourselves a lit- 
 tle to the windward of Dillon’s Bay. It was the 
 only apparent place on the island where a landing 
 could be effected, the whole of which island is with 
 this one exception, a complete iron-bound coast, with- 
 out the least appearance of culture. The natives are 
 a barbarous race of beings, approaching to the Afri- 
 can negro : they are also a different race, but the hair, 
 although curly, is not of that wooly description which 
 the African negroes have, being long and straight. 
 They are a dirty race of savages. 
 
 Wednesday morning, November 30th, we sent the 
 ship’s boat ashore, containing Mr. Williams, Mission- 
 ary; Mr. Cunningham, H. B. M. Vice Consul: Cap- 
 tain Morgan and Mr. Harris, who joined the Camp- 
 den at Otaheite for the purpose of proceeding to this 
 port, to take his passage for England, with a view of 
 arranging his affairs there previous to his return to 
 the Marquesas, as a missionary. As the boat ap- 
 
96 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 proached the beach, we could distinctly see that the 
 natives were averse to holding any communication 
 with us on friendly terms. Mr. Williams made them 
 presents of knives, scissors and some trinkets, for the 
 purpose of gaining their esteem, but without effect. 
 Mr. Williams now proposed giving up the idea of 
 having any intercourse with them, and had made up 
 his mind to proceed to some other island, where his 
 services might be required. Mr. Harris then asked 
 permission to leave the boat, for the purpose of pro- 
 ceeding among the natives. Mr. Harris was followed 
 by Mr. Williams; and when Mr. Cunningham had 
 reached the summit of the beach, he perceived Mr. 
 Harris running down towards the boat, followed by 
 a party of natives armed with clubs, spears, bows 
 and arrows. Mr. Harris fell the first victim, for as 
 soon as one knocked him down, the remainder spear- 
 ed him through. Mr. Cunningham saw him running, 
 he turned and made for the boat, and called to Mr. 
 Williams to run, for the natives had killed Mr. Har- 
 ris; Mr. Williams unfortunately stopped to look a 
 moment for Mr. Harris ; he made afterwards for the 
 boat and reached the water, — the boat laying off to 
 keep her afloat ; but in the hurry he stumbled and 
 fell, when the natives immediately took advantage of 
 this circumstance and struck him four blows on the 
 head with their club. By this time Captain Morgan 
 and Mr. Cunningham having gained the boat and 
 pushed off, after Mr. Williams had fallen; another 
 party of natives, numbering about sixteen or seven- 
 teen, speared him through, although our informant 
 thinks he was dead when they arrived. The chil- 
 dren threw missiles and stones at the corpse. Neither 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 97 
 
 of the bodies could be procured, though attempted. 
 They made an attempt and were attacked by the na- 
 tives, and part of one of their arrows is now to be 
 seen, stuck fast in the boat of the Campden. Cap- 
 tain Morgan intended beating the vessel up to wind* 
 ward, and under the cover of her guns to attempt the 
 rescue of the bodies ; but on approaching the beach K 
 found the natives had carried off Mr. Harris, and Mr. 
 Williams’s body they saw nothing of. Captain Mor- 
 gan finding all attempts to rescue the bodies useless,, 
 immediately bore away for Sydney, direct. Had the 
 party in the boat been possessed of a single musket, 
 the life of the Reverend Mr. Williams would doubt- 
 less have been saved, as he was followed to the beach 
 by one native only. 
 
 Sydney, New South W r ales, Dec. 4th. Since our 
 arrival we have had almost daily visits from our con- 
 sul, who is very attentive to us, in affording every fa- 
 cility in his power towards our outfits for the contem- 
 plated arduous antarctic cruise. We have been visit- 
 ed by several Englishmen, both naval and military, 
 besides the civil authorities. Governor Gipps kindly 
 tendered to Capt. Whlkes the use of the Fort for his 
 scientific instruments, and in which he had the ob- 
 servatory established. Almost every evening a party 
 was given to our officers on shore by the officers here, 
 or our officers gave a party to them. Capt. Wilkes 
 gave a dinner party at the Fort, to which his Excel- 
 lency, Governor Gipps, and the principal officers of 
 the colony were invited guests : also, all the English 
 naval and military officers on the station were pres- 
 ent. 
 
 As soon as I found it convenient after our arrival 
 9 
 
98 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 there, I visited the shore and had a ramble among 
 some of the principal streets. The first thing that 
 struck my attention on landing, was a thick-lipped ne- 
 gro man, black as charcoal, walking arm in arm with 
 a beautiful young white woman of about sixteen. I 
 had often before heard of this custom of amalgamation 
 among the English damsels, hut never before saw 
 such an unusual sight. There was something in it 
 which to me appeared so unnatural, that I could not 
 resist the temptation of stopping in the middle of the 
 street to gaze on the sight. I had not proceeded far 
 before I found this scene to be no novelty, for many 
 similar ones presented themselves. 
 
 The next thing in which I was particularly inter- 
 ested was the convicts, who were seen in every direc- 
 tion, some with shackles on the legs, — some with a 
 ball and chain dragging after them, — others chained 
 together, two and two, and again at a little distance 
 were seen four or five together, escorted by a guard of 
 soldiers. All the public work here is done by them, 
 as among them mechanics of all kinds may be found. 
 Government is compelled to keep one or two regiments 
 here, and a strong mounted police, to keep the con- 
 victs in subjection. Many of the convicts on their ar- 
 rival are allotted to different settlers, for whom they 
 work during the term of their transportation, or until 
 the sentence is mitigated, which very often happens 
 after serving faithfully half of their time. A ticket of 
 leave is then granted to them, which allows them to 
 work for themselves during the balance of their time, 
 hut they have to report themselves once every week 
 to the Governor, or some person appointed to superin- 
 tend the convicts. If any new crime of importance is 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 99 
 
 committed by them, they are sent to Norfolk Island, 
 where they have to work in chains, without any 
 chance of commutation. 
 
 Others, again, retire to the bushes, and murder, roh 
 and steal, all that comes within their reach. They 
 are then denominated “bushrangers, or highway- 
 men ; ” hence they are accounted outlaws, and may 
 be shot wherever they are found. Fourteen of these 
 “desperadoes” have been convicted and hanged. 
 Some few of the convicts become good citizens, — 
 very wealthy ; one died a short time since, whose es- 
 tate was valued at one hundred thousand pounds ster- 
 ling. I met with several New Hollanders, who are 
 the ugliest and the most deformed of any human 
 beings I ever saw. 
 
 Sir George Gipps is the present Governor, and Sir 
 Maurice O’Conner commander of the forces. 
 
 Dec. 25th. This was quite a dull Christmas with 
 us, in respect to amusements; but with regard to 
 work, there was plenty — for we were busily engaged 
 in preparing the ship for sea, and hourly expected to 
 sail. 
 
 What a contrast was my present situation to what 
 I fancied was that of my friends at home, sitting 
 round their cheerful fires, enjoying, as I confidently 
 and sincerely hoped, the blessings of health and hap- 
 piness ! 
 
 Our voyage was commenced under favorable aus- 
 pices, but we had not been out long when the sudden 
 fall of the barometer, and the fluctuations of the ther- 
 mometer, indicated a change — a gale. In this we 
 were not deceived, as the sequel plainly, but sadly 
 revealed to us. It came on squally at 10 o’clock, 
 
100 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 and continued to blow at intervals with great violence. 
 All hands were called, and the topsails close-reefed, 
 and every thing made ready to meet the fury of the 
 coming storm. In the evening the gale increased so 
 much that we hove the ship to. and sent down top- 
 gallant and royal-yards. At 10, P. M., a thick fog 
 set in, and continued through the night. During this 
 time we parted company with the Peacock, and schr. 
 Flying Fish. On the 6th of Jan., we had advanced as 
 far south as 53 deg. S. latitude. A number of whales 
 were seen, and some “kelp birds” were our constant 
 companions, and the only new object which served to 
 beguile the tediousness of our hours. We amused 
 ourselves sometimes by catching them with a book and 
 line; we found the plumage of these thirds extremely 
 rich and delicate. We perceived the weather to grow 
 cool very rapidly as we advanced south ; but this is 
 somewhat compensated for by our increase of day- 
 light. We have fifteen hours day out of the twenty- 
 four, and the balance of the time is light enough to 
 see to read on the spar-deck. 
 
 Last night I witnessed to the southward a brilliant 
 display of the Aurora Australis. It afforded a variety 
 of light and colors, seldom surpassed in any exhibition 
 of fireworks. I could but gaze with intense delight, 
 while my thoughts were absorbed in contemplating 
 the wonderful works of nature. The “ Aurora Borea- 
 lis,” in point of brilliancy and interest, cannot com- 
 pare with this. The whole southern horizon, the 
 broad extent, reaching as far as the zenith, was beaming 
 with vivid magnificence, — as when the first tints of 
 morn burst from the east ; ever changing, from mod- 
 est hues to deeper vividness, and from twinklings to 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 101 
 
 the dazzling blaze of far-reaching splendor and sub- 
 limity. Arch crowded on arch, wave succeeded 
 wave, blaze shot across wave like lightning’s fitful 
 glare — figure blended with figure— and anon the 
 pointed shaft — arrow like — peered above the horizon, 
 extending far up the illumined concave, as if some 
 mighty volcano had belched forth, from her fiery bow- 
 els, a blazing herald, sent on a message of death. Now 
 the wide expanse, from the zenith to horizon, glowed 
 with an almost unearthly flame, as if about to “melt 
 with fervent heat,” — and now it slowly subsides, like 
 the half extinguished taper, and all is as placid as a 
 summer evening’s twilight. 
 
 As we proceeded south, from latitude 60 deg. we saw 
 but little of comparative interest. The first iceberg 
 that we discovered, was after leaving that parallel. 
 It was flat on the top, having the appearance of hav- 
 ing been hewn off. Whales were quite abundant in 
 this latitude, and large numbers of seals surrounded 
 us, apparently on their way farther south. The tem- 
 perature was rapidly changing, and the weather be- 
 coming more and more disagreeable. Storms were 
 becoming more and more frequent and severe. At 10 
 o'clock, A. M., Jan. 10th, we were surrounded by ice- 
 bergs, which rendered it impossible to pursue our reg- 
 ular course, but were obliged to change to avoid these 
 immense floating islands. A thick gloom had appa- 
 rently settled upon every thing around. The weather 
 was fast becoming cold and severe. Fires were kept 
 burning in various parts of the ship, to render it as 
 comfortable as possible. The water had now assumed 
 a dark pea-green color, and icebergs were seen in 
 every direction, as far as the eye could reach. On 
 9 # 
 
102 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 the 12th, we were obliged to heave to, in consequence 
 of having run into a bay of ice, which, apparently was 
 about to prevent our farther progress south. Yet in 
 all of this desolation, we were attended by animate 
 creation. Sperm whales were sporting around us, 
 now presenting their huge bodies at the surface of the 
 water, heaving and raging, and sending far upward 
 its icy spray, and now plunging down into ocean’s 
 depths, far from the wandering gaze of man. How 
 illustrative of the power and goodness of Him. whose 
 dominion is from sea to sea, and from the rivers to 
 the ends of the earth,” to adapt the constitution of 
 every living, sentient being, not only to the element 
 in which it is to exist, but to all of the varieties of cli- 
 mate, from pole to pole ! 
 
 We lost sight, in latitude 64 deg., of the Porpoise, 
 while surrounded by a thick fog. The weather was 
 cold and disagreeable in the extreme. Wore ship and 
 stood to the westward in order to find an opening into 
 the sea. Here we saw large flocks of penguins upon 
 the ice, with a number of cape pigeons, and some 
 large white albatrosses, resembling those seen off Cape 
 Horn. Hot coffee was made every night during this 
 cold weather, and served to the men when going on 
 deck, and also the watch when coming below. 
 
 We continued working to the windward, urging 
 our course with much difficulty. Large pieces of fu- 
 cus were floating in every direction, in this vicinity. 
 On the 16th, we saw at a distance the Peacock. She 
 seemed to be employed in the ice, and to appearance, 
 had suffered much. The water all this day was of 
 an unusual dirty green. Hundreds of icebergs were 
 in every direction, some two, and even three hundred 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 103 
 
 feet in height, with conical forms, and others with 
 perpendicular sides and flat tops, as smooth as glass. 
 Many had the most beautiful arches I ever beheld, or 
 fancy could devise, formed by the washing of the 
 waves. We were now in 65 deg. 26 min. south lon- 
 gitude, 157 deg. 43 min. east. The sea during this 
 day was enlivened by animalcules, but owing to a 
 heavy swell, none could be procured, though attempt- 
 ed by our scientific gentlemen. 
 
 January 17th. The loom of land was plain in the 
 horizon. The water had a dirty green color, but 
 much clearer than yesterday. Thousands of birds, 
 seals and whales, were all around us. Among the 
 feathered tribe, I noticed the “Mother Cary’s chicken,” 
 and many cape pigeons. 
 
 18th. Every indication of land. We observed 
 last night that all the birds, penguins and seals, went 
 due south, and the first that were seen this morning 
 were coming from that direction, and standing north. 
 I saw to-day some very large sperm whales. They 
 were so large, and covered with so many barnacles, 
 that they looked like huge rocks, when coming up to 
 blow. The weather was extremely cold ; good fires 
 were kept constantly in the stoves, one on the quarter 
 deck, the other forward of the fore hatch ; and also 
 fire was kept in the galley range, below, and the 
 berth-deck, where the men dried their clothes. Hot 
 coffee and toddy were served to each watch when 
 going on deck, and those “ turning in.” Extra warm 
 clothing was served out to the men — the hammocks re- 
 mained below in their berths for several days for the 
 men to rest themselves. The water, a light pea green, 
 and filled with animalcules, and a species of fucus of 
 
104 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 an enormous length. At 12 o’clock, our latitude by 
 observation, was 55 deg. 45 min. 62 sec. S., longitude, 
 156 deg. 67 min. 28 sec. E. 
 
 19th. This morning at 6 o’clock, land was report- 
 ed from the mast-head, and at 8 it was plainly visible 
 from the deck, stretching from the south and east as 
 far as the eye could extend, with a towering top some 
 two and three thousand feet on a level. Here we 
 had got fairly into the rookery of penguins, albatros- 
 ses and seals. The water a dark green color — it was 
 also full of small animalcules. The Peacock was 
 seen to-day to the south of us. We continued to 
 stand toward the land until the afternoon, when we 
 came rudely against an impenetrable barrier of ice, 
 preventing our nearer approach to it. Our latitude at 
 noon, to-day, was 66 deg. 20 min. south, and long. 
 154 deg. 27 min. 45 sec. east. Stood to the eastward 
 in order to find a more eligible place to land. 
 
 20th. Strong winds and cold weather. Thermom- 
 eter between decks, from 28 to 34 degrees. Land in 
 sight. All attempts to approach nearer to it, proved 
 fruitless. This day penguins in abundance, and 
 whales seen in all directions. Land was still in sight 
 all day, and we were anxiously looking for an en- 
 trance into it. At 12 o’clock we were in lat. 66 deg. 
 07 min. S., long. 151 deg. 26 min. 30 sec. E. The 
 weather extremely cold. Thermometer between 
 decks 23 degrees. 
 
 22d. During this day we have fallen in with a 
 number of icebergs of an enormous size. A large 
 number of penguins were captured upon the ice. I 
 opened one, and found in his stomach twenty-two pie- 
 ces quartz and granite, with a quantity of crustacia, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 105 
 
 among which were the Hexacherus. At 12 o’clock 
 our latitude was 66 deg. 12 min. 26 sec. S., longitude 
 149 deg. 44 min. E. We tried at several places to 
 effect a landing or entrance, but all to no purpose ; an 
 impenetrable barrier defied all our efforts. 
 
 From 22d Jan. to the 25th, we were seeking an 
 entrance to the land, but without success. This, 
 morning, 25th, we entered a deep bay formed by ice. 
 Here we examined every point, in the hope of finding 
 an entrance to the land, but without success. We 
 hauled the ship alongside of an iceberg, passed a 
 hawser round it, so that we could hoist it on board, 
 and in consequence of the calm weather, succeeded in 
 filling all of our water tanks with ice. On a level ice- 
 burg near, the captain took a number of scientific in- 
 struments, and the dipping needle. It gave 87 deg. 
 30 min. for the dip. The compasses became useless 
 in this bay. They all pointed differently, and none 
 were correct. The captain placed abaft the compass, 
 Burlow’s Plate, to remedy the evil, but it was all to 
 no purpose, they would not work. They were then 
 placed in different parts of the ship, but it was all the 
 same. I observed a number of Madns to-day, and 
 one was caught of a deep brown color, in which I 
 found a live hyperia. 
 
 There were innumerable small crustacia moving 
 around the sides of the ice island, but they swam so 
 deep that we could catch none of them. At 12 o’clock 
 to-day, the lat. was 67 deg. 04 min. S., long. 147 deg. 
 30 min. E. This bay, Capt. Wilkes called ^Disap- 
 pointment Bay,” as all attempts hitherto had been 
 abortive : and this one seemed to put an end to all 
 future hope of progressing further south. 
 
106 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 27th. This day we fell in with the Porpoise. She 
 had come near being imbedded in ice, and suffered 
 considerably in working her way out. After finding 
 all wdl on board, she made sail and stood on the 
 other tack. The weather was extremely cold and 
 disagreeable. Good fires were kept day and night in 
 both stoves on the gun deck, and in the galley range, 
 on the berth deck. Since our entrance among the ice, 
 and in the bad weather, all hands were mustered at 
 quarters, morning and evening, ajid the state of their 
 clothing examined by the divisional officers, and re- 
 ported to Capt. Wilkes. Every precaution was taken 
 that could be thought of, or suggested, by Capt. 
 Wilkes, to render the situation of the men as agreea- 
 ble as possible, and prevent sickness. An abundance 
 of good provisions, sour krout, dried apples, cranber- 
 ries, and other anti-scorbutics were served out ; be- 
 sides, we had eighteen months provisions on board. 
 At 12 o’clock, latitude by observation 64 deg. 54 min. 
 21 sec. S., longitude 142 deg. 50 min. 08 sec. E. 
 
 28th. At 5 A. M., we discovered high land to the 
 south, covered with snow. At noon the land was 
 seen extending from S. E. by E., to W. S. W. At 9, 
 sounded and found bottom in thirty fathoms waler; 
 coarse black sand came up on the drawing of the lead. 
 This was a tolerable good bay, but a gale was setting 
 in, and the ice to windward closing upon us just as 
 we were getting ready to anchor. To the leeward of 
 us, and forming a side to this bay, was a long ledge 
 of rocks, at the distance of miles from us, with a 
 strong appearance of volcanic smoke to the south. At 
 12 M., our latitude was 66 deg. 32 min. 43 sec. S., 
 longitude 140 deg. 24 min. 43 sec. E. We were com- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 107 
 
 pelled to retrace our course by the way we came, in 
 consequence of the sudden setting in of the gale ; and 
 before we had passed it, it set in so thick that we 
 could not see five hundred yards ahead, with rain, 
 hail and snow. This was the thirteenth time that 
 we attempted to effect a landing, but without success, 
 and in an hour from the time we left it, the wind had. 
 increased to a violent gale. From our perilous situa- 
 tion we were compelled to keep all hands upon deck 
 all nighfr, the ship passing through a very narrow pas- 
 sage with a tremendous heavy sea running, which 
 caused her to roll so deep that she was near being on 
 her beam ends several times. The decks were cov- 
 ered with ice and sleet, which rendered walking diffi- 
 cult, and even dangerous. Several men were thrown 
 from the weather side to the leeward. Mr. William- 
 son, gunner, was seriously injured, having three of 
 his ribs broken. The men who were on the main- 
 topsail yard became so benumbed with cold, that they 
 could not get off the yard, and had to be slung and 
 sent down from aloft. The barometer stood at 28,70, 
 and a more furious gale I never experienced in any 
 part of the world ; the sea washing against the sides 
 of the icebergs, and the dashing of the waves in arch- 
 es, made a noise like distant cannon. 
 
 29th. All this day a gale and a dreadful sea. At 
 12 o’clock, latitude 65 deg. 28 min. S., longitude 140 
 deg. 45 min. E. Land at a distance, nothing but ice ! 
 ice!! ice!!! 
 
 30th. This day the gale abated and we made sail 
 and stood for the land, it being in sight. We tried to 
 return by the same rout, to regain the bay which we 
 were in on the 28th, but did not succeed, as we fell 
 
108 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 several miles westward. We approached near enough 
 to get soundings in forty fathoms. In winding our 
 way back, we saw what indescribable dangers we 
 had passed through during the gale. 
 
 31st. All this day coasting along the barrier, look- 
 ing for an entrance through it to the land. 
 
 I have been thus minute, and perhaps tedious, in 
 giving the reader some idea, — though vague it must 
 necessarily be. of our peculiar situation, while tossed 
 and driven among the icebergs of that desolate and 
 unexplored field of gloom and exposure. None but 
 those present on that eventful Expedition, can have 
 any adequate conception of the dreariness of the 
 scenery. It might be called with comparative pro- 
 priety, a “ waste of waters, 55 a term usually applied 
 improperly to the ocean, in all its sublimit)?- and 
 grandeur. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 109 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Attempts to Land continued — Reflections — Return to the North. 
 
 u Meanwhile the mountain-billows, to the clouds 
 In dreadful tumult swelled, surge above surge 
 Burst into chaos with tremendous roar, 
 
 And anchored navies from their station drive, 
 
 Wild as the winds across the howling waste 
 Of mighty waters : now th 7 inflated wave 
 Straining the scale, and now impetuous shoot 
 Into the secret chambers of the deep.” 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 February 1st. We again stood in for the land; 
 having seen it so often in different situations and ap- 
 proached it so near, Captain Wilkes named it the 
 “ Antarctic Continent.” We saw again a number of 
 Mother Cary’s chickens, appearing to be as regardless 
 of the climate here as if they were in the tropics. 
 We observed to-day a school of porpoises singularly 
 marked, having a faint yellow band over the nose, 
 crossing the jaws and running under the neck; a 
 second band crossing the dorsal fin, and ending by 
 running parallel with the tail. They appeared very 
 rapid in their movements through the water, much 
 swifter than our common porpoise. Means were 
 used to capture one, but they were unsuccessful. 
 
 We again made the land about sixty miles to the 
 westward of the point first visited. Here we found 
 the coast thickly defended with large cliffs of ice, 
 forming the most singular looking barrier that we 
 10 
 
110 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 had seen, which prevented us from reaching the land 
 in any way. And at this very point there was a 
 tongue of land running close to the water, so low 
 that, to all appearances, one might have stepped out 
 of the boat upon it. Our sick list was daily increas- 
 ing almost to an alarming extent; the number report- 
 ed was fifteen. Most of these cases were consequent 
 upon the extreme hardships and exposure which the 
 men had undergone during the late gales, when the 
 ship was surrounded with ice. In the surgeon’s re- 
 port he says — “ This number is not large, but he feels 
 it necessary to state that the general health of the 
 crew is in his opinion decidedly affected ; and that 
 under ordinary circumstances the list would be very 
 much increased ; while the men under present exigen- 
 cies, actuated by a laudable desire to do their duty to 
 the last, refrain from presenting themselves as appli- 
 cants for the list.” And he further says — “ Under 
 these circumstances, he feels it his duty to state, that, 
 in his opinion, a few days more of such exposure as 
 they have already undergone, would reduce the num- 
 ber of the crew, by sickness, to such an extent as to 
 hazard the safety of the ship and the lives of all on 
 board.” 
 
 February 3d, latitude observed at 12 o’clock, 65 
 deg. 1 min. 10 sec. South, longitude 135 deg. 42 min. 
 30 sec. East. We fished up some live crustacia, 
 among which was a euphansia. This day set in 
 with a regular gale of wind from the S. E., with 
 thick weather. Snow, rain and hail again forced us 
 to stand from the land, often placing us in dangerous 
 positions, from the great number of icebergs, and 
 
'X OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 thick weather. The ship in this gale labored dread- 
 fully ; every timber groaned under the pressure of the 
 storm. 
 
 This weather continued until the 7th February, 
 when it was clear enough to see the land. We made 
 more sail and stood for it, and was soon up with a 
 perpendicular barrier of ice, similar to that which we 
 had previously seen attached to land. The ice here 
 appeared to be much thicker, and to extend to a great 
 distance. We could not effect an entrance, and were 
 compelled to stand off. Numerous large whales, seals 
 and penguins were in sight. The water was much 
 discolored. We coasted to the westward about 
 seventy miles, when we were stopped by the barrier, 
 which trended to the southward. We could not pene- 
 trate any farther south in consequence of a thick 
 barrier of field ice. Here in this critical place. Cap- 
 tain Wilkes remained for twenty-four hours in ex- 
 amining the various places where there was the least 
 sign of an opening, but with no better success than 
 before. So he continued to coast to the westward, 
 beset on all sides with huge icebergs. 
 
 Soon after, the weather became more favorable. 
 The sun shone out quite brilliantly for some consid- 
 erable time. At night we were favored with a beau- 
 tiful display of the Aurora Australis. The Doctor 
 was busily employed in making observations with 
 the photometer on the density of light. This was one 
 of the most sublime sights that I ever witnessed, and 
 lasted nearly the whole night. 
 
 We still coasted to the westward in order to find 
 an entrance through the barrier, to the land, but did 
 not succeed. The weather was very fine for the 
 
112 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 southern hemisphere, where we had experienced so 
 much severity and exposure. We continued coasting 
 to the westward, close to the barrier, in the hope of 
 finding a passage through it. In the afternoon of the 
 11th, we came to a part of the barrier where there 
 were immense islands of ice extending farther off, 
 and running parallel with the land. A number of 
 whales were in sight from the mast-head, some of 
 them of an enormous size. The sun rose this morn- 
 ing at a quarter before three o’clock, and set at half 
 past eight. During the remaining part of the time 
 it was so light that we could see to read with consid- 
 erable ease. 
 
 We had another sight of the land on the 12th, but 
 at a distance, with no better prospect of success in 
 reaching it than the first time we saw it. Here the 
 barrier appeared to be seven or eight miles in breadth. 
 
 We again succeeded in reaching an opening, which 
 led us to believe that we might approach the land 
 nearer than we had at any other point, as it was dis- 
 tinctly visible, and the shore appeared not more than 
 five or six miles off; but in this we were soon stopped 
 by coming in contact with a quantity of drift ice. 
 We put about and tried to effect a nearer approach to 
 the land, but did not approach within fifteen miles. 
 Not meeting with success we hauled off for the night, 
 with no prospect of landing. 
 
 At 8 o’clock, A. M., on the 14th, we stood in for 
 the land, to effect an entrance at another point that 
 appeared clearer, but without success. The breeze 
 was light and we did not reach the point so much 
 desired. A long line of land was in sight, extending 
 from south-west to north-west. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 113 
 
 We continued to force our way through the drift 
 ice trending to the west, and a line of icebergs to the 
 leeward, extending from north-west to south-east. 
 We made more sail, and at ten o’clock stood in for 
 the land, through a passage just wide enough to ad- 
 mit the ship. Captain Wilkes continued to force her 
 through the ice in the hope of reaching the land. In 
 a short time, however, the ice became so thick as to 
 render it impossible to penetrate any farther. The 
 large pieces of ice began to settle down on us so fast, 
 and the passage became so very narrow, that the 
 captain thought it prudent to put the helm up and 
 make our way through the passage. So narrow was 
 it at this time as almost to touch the yards of the 
 ship, which were closely braced up. After we had 
 gained an opening, we found a great many ice isl- 
 ands opposite to us, and one in particular, which seem- 
 ed to be aground, from the rock that we saw under it 
 when the water had washed it clear at the surface. 
 Upon this island of ice, large quantities of earth and 
 some pieces of rock were found. 
 
 Four boats left the ship for this iceberg, and in one 
 I took passage with Lieutenant Alden. We soon 
 effected a landing upon it. Mr. Waldron, purser, 
 landed on the other side of the island, and both par- 
 ties met in the centre. Here all hands were busily 
 employed in collecting sand and sandstone, quartz 
 and sand. Some of the pieces Aveighed upwards of 
 one hundred pounds. Several curious shells were 
 found, entirely new, so far as our knowledge was 
 concerned. The French books were examined, but 
 nothing in them was figured resembling these speci- 
 mens. It was found to be between a cone and an 
 10 * 
 
114 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 olive. The collection of specimens obtained on this 
 island is no doubt more than we should have been able 
 to have got on the land, if we had been so fortunate as 
 to have landed ; for the surface of the earth on the 
 land must be covered with ice, many feet deep. 
 
 During the afternoon, from three to five hundred 
 gallons of fresh water were collected from the pool on 
 the iceberg. Captain Wilkes took the magnetic in- 
 struments on the ice and made observations. He 
 took the bearing and distance of the land, after which, 
 hoisted the flag number one, and at the foot of the 
 flag-staff left a bottle with sealed instructions for the 
 Peacock and Porpoise, in case they should reach 
 this point. From this iceberg there were upwards of 
 sixty miles of coast in sight; bearing the same as 
 that we had seen the preceding day. After all the 
 boats returned, we hoisted up, and commenced select- 
 ing our way out for an opening. During the night it 
 was very clear and cold. 
 
 We still continued to coast to the westward, in the 
 expectation of an opening to the land; but a long 
 time was spent in vain endeavors. Land was in 
 sight at a distance, yet so far as we were concerned, 
 it might have been beyond the reach of human vision. 
 Several icebergs were seen drifting by, with specimens 
 of sand and stones imbedded in them. On one an 
 enormous sea lion was observed ; a boat was immedi- 
 ately despatched with guns to kill him, but he out- 
 generaled all of them, with a new move in military 
 tactics, unknown to all of our soldiers. He made 
 quite a flare up before he left ; leaving our gentlemen 
 to judge of his abilities as a water inhabitant of the 
 antarctic region. During the encounter, several oth- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 115 
 
 ers were seen near, which seemed disposed to come 
 to his rescue. At several times they swam to the 
 edge and rested their heads upon projecting parts of 
 the island, but none succeeded in getting upon it. In 
 his exasperation he would approach us, as if intent 
 upon our destruction, yet not quite willing to grapple 
 with us. At last finding himself in danger of being 
 captured he wisely plunged into his native element, 
 leaving us to conduct our assault as might best suit 
 our convenience. 
 
 The sea lion is a species of the seal, sometimes 
 called the mammoth seal. He is of the larger kind, 
 and has an extensive mane , from which circumstance 
 he derives his name. 
 
 We afterward ventured to pass somewhat nearer 
 to the harrier, which brought us in contact with huge 
 quantities of fucus pyriformes , among which we saw 
 several seals, feeding on the lepas anatifera , in which 
 this fucus abounds. 
 
 Though far removed from the more favored climes, 
 these animals are still cared for by their Creator, who 
 adapts conditions to circumstances, and suffers not 
 the most insignificant creature which he has made, 
 to perish unpitied or unprovided for. 
 
 On the 17th, with much regret, we found ourselves 
 closely embayed, and unable to proceed any farther 
 to the westward. There was no alternative for us, 
 but to retrace our way back as soon as possible, for 
 the weather had a threatening appearance, and the 
 small space we had to work ship in would have placed 
 us in a dangerous situation. We were now in lati- 
 tude 64 deg. 00 min. 15 sec., longitude 97 deg. 44 
 min. E. 
 
116 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 As we could proceed no further and finding the bar- 
 rier to the northward and eastward, being surrounded 
 on all sides with an impenetrable mass of ice, we put 
 about and commenced beating up its northern shore 
 to get out. 
 
 All of the 18th we were beating along the northern 
 shore of the barrier, in order to effect our escape. A 
 number of whales were seen sporting in their native 
 element, heeding not the rigors of the polar, wintry 
 blasts, and untrammeled by icy barriers. The night 
 passed off with threatening weather and appearances 
 of snow. All of the following day we were still beat- 
 ing, to effect an escape from the barrier, as we had 
 much fear of being embayed in it. The reader can 
 have but vague ideas of the prospect before us. Im- 
 mense fields of ice were crowding around us, and 
 when once the aperture should become closed, and 
 the masses adhered, the hope of a deliverance might 
 have been exceedingly precarious. 
 
 There was a great quantity of animalcules and 
 crustacia in the water ; some were caught, among 
 which was Talitius , and another was procured before 
 from the stomach of a penguin. At sunset (ten 
 o’clock at night,) on the 20th, the extreme northern 
 end of the barrier was in sight, to the great joy of all 
 on board. We had thus far, in our last critical situ- 
 ation, been favored with tolerably good weather, 
 though it looked very threatening, and if a gale had 
 come on while we were in this situation, we must 
 have been embedded, and no doubt would have 
 caused our destruction. We certainly had great rea- 
 son to be thankful to the All Merciful Almighty, for 
 this safe deliverance from our perilous situation. We 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 117 
 
 were particularly blessed on this arduous cruise, from 
 the fact that no accident of any kind happened to us. 
 
 At 7 o'clock, P. M., 21st, all hands were called 
 to muster, when Captain Wilkes told them that he 
 was happy to inform them that the cruise south had 
 terminated, and that he intended to proceed to the 
 north. He, in a very handsome and brief manner, 
 thanked the officers and men for the very able man- 
 ner in which they had performed their duty, while 
 engaged in this arduous service. He assured all 
 hands that he should represent their conduct in the 
 most favorable light possible, to the government, and 
 he had no doubt that a generous people would grant 
 to all a suitable reward for their past services ; after 
 which he ordered the “ main-brace spliced,” that is, 
 an extra allowance of grog to all hands, when there 
 was a general buzz throughout the ship. Hot coffee 
 and refreshments had been served out every night to 
 the different watches, up to this. 
 
 This commences a new era in the history of our 
 cruise. Since our departure we have seen almost ev- 
 ery variety of climate and scenery. We have been 
 where the tropical sun pours his torrid rays upon a 
 weak and effeminate race of men. in all of the inten- 
 sity of equatorial heat ; in a latitude where spicy gales 
 are wafted from isle to isle, and where blossoms and 
 delicious fruit ever luxuriate ; — and we had been in 
 cold, gloomy, sterile, and uninviting regions, where 
 not a leaf or shrub was seen, — not even a trace of a 
 human being could be detected. It is not probable 
 that human footstep ever impressed that sterile, frigid 
 continent. If so, we may be allowed to conjecture 
 that they are a race totally distinct from ours, obtain- 
 
118 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ing a livelihood, not from a culture of the soil, — for 
 that seemed deep imbedded beneath an enormous 
 mantle of ice and snow, — but by means entirely dis- 
 tinct from that of any race with which we are ac- 
 quainted. We had been more than fifty days in a 
 bleak latitude, and during most of that time, at an 
 unpleasant proximity to the continent, with a tower- 
 ing, impenetrable icy barrier preventing our nearer 
 approach, and often threatening to close in upon us ; 
 thus shutting us out from all communication with our 
 fellow men. A portion of that time we were almost 
 enclosed by this far-reaching field of ice, now rising 
 to an almost incredible height above us, leaving only 
 a narrow channel through which we could make our 
 escape, and now disparted, tumbling and rolling and 
 chafing in fury, as the rude polar blasts came sweep- 
 ing by, dashing island upon island, and mass upon 
 mass, with tremendous crash ! It was a scene that 
 to be appreciated, must be witnessed. It will not sur- 
 prise the reader to learn that we often thought of our 
 homes, thousands of miles distant, where we once 
 shared the friendship and confidence of kindred and 
 friends, interchanged kindly salutations, and recipro- 
 cated each expression of regard or affection. There 
 were times in which the prospect of a return to our 
 quiet homes was not the most flattering, but when we 
 were liable at almost any moment to make our bed in 
 that great receptacle of ocean’s sons, uncoffmed and 
 unshrouded, save by the ever-restless wave and mass- 
 ive icebergs, with no requiem, save the deep voice of 
 ocean’s u thunder-gong,” pealing in all of its wild 
 sublimity. Like the dove of ancient time, or some 
 lone wanderer bewildered and exhausted, we long 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 119 
 
 sought for a resting-place, but found none. The ha- 
 ven was within sight, but inaccessible. 
 
 After despairing of effecting a landing, we directed 
 our course northward. Our speed was unparalleled 
 in a sea of ice like this, and probably no other man 
 in the world would have made such a cruise in the 
 ice, and tried to effect an entrance in such dangerous 
 situations. He is certainly the most persevering man 
 I ever saw. 
 
 As we made our progress toward the north, the 
 weather became more mild and agreeable. The sick 
 were improving, and those men who had been frozen 
 on the yards, on the night of the 29th January, had 
 all so far recovered as to go about the decks. 
 
 We parted company with the squadron, and have 
 not seen the schooner since the 3d January, the Pea- 
 cock on the 19th, and the Porpoise on the 27th. 
 
120 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Arrival at New Holland — Singular coincidence — Arrival at New 
 Zealand — “ War Dance ” — Description of the Islands — Inhab- 
 itants — The New Zealanders and New Hollanders contrasted. 
 
 “ Ocean, unequal pressed, with broken tide 
 
 And blind commotion heaves; while from the shore, 
 
 Eat into caverns by the restless wave, 
 
 And forest-rustling mountain comes a voice, 
 
 That solemn sounding bids the world prepare ! 
 
 Then issues forth the storm with sudden burst, 
 
 And hurls the whole precipitated air 
 Down in a torrent. On the passive main 
 Descends the etherial force, and with strong gust 
 Turns from its bottom the discolored deep.” 
 
 On the 5th of March we made the coast of New 
 Holland, to the southward of Botany Bay. In pass- 
 ing this spot, memorable for being the first place in 
 New Holland which was visited and named by Cap- 
 tain Cook, where convicts are sent, and the last place 
 where the unfortunate La Parouse was heard from, 
 we could but be interested in these associations. It is 
 a deep bay, and from appearances without the en- 
 trance, is between two high head lands, called Cape 
 Banks and Solauder. It makes into two bays, but 
 neither affords good anchorage for vessels of a large 
 size. It is sufficiently commodious as a place of re- 
 treat for small ones, wind-bound, destined to different 
 parts of the coast. It was ascertained, on the evening 
 of the 27th December, that we had on board a boy 
 

 OF SAILOR LIFE. 121 
 
 belonging to the 50th regiment, which is stationed at 
 Sydney. He was sick nearly the whole cruise south. 
 He was aware that Capt. Wilkes would give him up. 
 I felt sorry for him ; I knew his feelings must be tor- 
 turing. 
 
 At half past 1 o’clock, the telegraph on Sydney 
 Heads, made signal of our approach, and in about 
 half an hour we saw the pilot coming out to us. He* 
 soon boarded us, and we learned from him that the 
 U. S. Ship Peacock had arrived at that place on the 
 22d February in a sinking condition, having carried 
 away her rudder and all her cut- water, and also all 
 of her bulwarks and timbers, from the starboard gang- 
 way to the tafrail, and that she was then in Mor- 
 mon’s cove, repairing. This was rather unwelcome 
 news to us, as we only expected to remain in Sydney 
 long enough to get water ; but we found, now, that 
 we should be detained with the Peacock for some 
 time. At half past 2 o’clock we came to anchor in 
 u Farmer’s Cove,” near H. B. M. Transport Ship Buf- 
 falo, Capt. Wood. This ship had just arrived with 
 the Canadian convicts, among whom, we were in- 
 formed, were several citizens of the United States. 
 They must have looked at the American flag with 
 feelings differing widely from those which animated 
 their bosoms when some of them left their homes 
 under its protection, to violate the laws of a country 
 with which we were on terms of friendship. If it had 
 been for the pure love of liberty, I should have pitied 
 them from the bottom of my heart, but this was not 
 the case; it was for self-gratification, and nothing 
 more. 
 
 The people of Sydney appeared to be as glad to see 
 
 11 
 
122 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 us as if it had been our homes. We heard, while 
 here, of the arrival of the two French discovery ships 
 at Hobart Town : and what is more remarkable, they 
 also discovered land on the same day, 19th January, 
 in the evening, being only 1800 miles in longitude 
 from each other. It is one of those remarkable cir- 
 cumstances that sometimes happens. 
 
 The French commander has published quite an 
 elaborate report of his discoveries while south. 
 He had been very unfortunate in the loss of his offi- 
 cers and men, among whom was his artist, N. Ernest 
 Goupel. The French Commodore lost, from the 3d 
 Nov. 1839, to the 2d January, 1840, four officers and 
 twenty-seven men. 
 
 Every thing being completed on our part, we left 
 the Peacock to join us at Tongataboo. We made sail 
 for the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, on the 29th 
 March. As we passed along, we found the water re- 
 markably full of phosphorescence. We discovered a 
 sail ; it proved to be the French whale ship Ville de 
 Bordeux, from New Zealand, bound to Sydney. Her 
 crew were sickly, and the surgeon of this ship went 
 on board and prescribed for them. Her provisions 
 being short we gave her a barrel of beef, and one of 
 poxk, and a number of tin cases with roast beef and 
 preserved soup for the sick ; after which we parted 
 company. 
 
 At 10 o’clock, P. M., March 30th, we came to 
 anchor in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, in five 
 fathoms water. We found here at anchor the brig 
 Porpoise, and schr. Flying Fish, and a number of 
 English and American whale ships. 
 
 We were visited by Bomarri, the principal chief at 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 123 
 
 the place, with all of his under chiefs, and a number 
 of his people, — from three to five hundred. Many 
 presents were distributed to him and his people. He 
 invited Captain Wilkes and the officers of this ship to 
 attend, to-morrow, on shore, when he would have a 
 grand 11 war dance 55 performed for them, at the resi- 
 dence of the American consul. On the next day, 
 hundreds of the natives were seen coming down the 
 river in their canoes to the consul’s wharf, to engage 
 in the dance. At the appointed time, Capt. Wilkes 
 and officers went on shore to witness the savage cere- 
 mony. One hundred pounds of sugar, two bags of 
 rice, fifty pounds of tobacco, and several small trink- 
 ets were sent ashore, in charge of Mr. Dyes for Bo- 
 marri and his people. At 12, the war dance com- 
 menced on two hills near the consul’s store — the turn 
 parties representing themselves as enemies to each 
 other. They all had firearms, clubs and spears ; 
 they commenced stamping, and making hideous faces 
 and loud ejaculations, showing themselves off in a 
 general perturbation and maddened frenzy. When 
 they had arrived at the height of their wrath, they 
 frothed at the mouth, and stamped the ground with 
 such force, as seemingly to make it tremble. During 
 the dance they kept moving down the sides of the 
 hills, facing each other, and at a certain yell, they ran 
 together with tremendous force, as if they intended to 
 tear each other in pieces ; and as they were all to- 
 gether in this confusion, with arms extended in the 
 air, they continued to discharge their pieces, and yell 
 so as to make the elements resound with their noise. 
 They then in this confusion started off in a full gallop, 
 making the earth tremble with their noise, as if so 
 
124 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 many horses were running at full speed, until they 
 reached the third hill, on which is situated the con- 
 sul’s house. Here they commenced running back- 
 ward and forward for about 700 yards, coming in 
 contact with a fence, when they would in very good 
 order discharge all of their pieces, then arrange them- 
 selves into two phalanges and commence another 
 dance. After finishing this novel amusement, they 
 commenced another dance, which they called “ enter- 
 taining strangers; 77 then a speech was made, in 
 which the speaker exhibited considerable taste. This 
 being completed, a number of New Zealand girls were 
 arranged in an angle to perform a “love dance. 77 
 
 This bore some resemblance to the “ war dance, 77 
 though less boisterous. They were arrariged in par- 
 ties — as in the preceding dance — and performed many 
 unique gestures. These consisted in the raising and 
 falling of the hands and feet alternately, sometimes 
 singly and sometimes in pairs. Those of my readers 
 who have seen the ceremonies of the Shakers, may 
 form some idea of a part of these antics. I am not 
 prepared to say which party should claim originality 
 in this matter, the Shakers or the Islanders. It is not 
 probable, however, that these simple natives, from the 
 nature of the case, ever saw such exercises among civ- 
 ilized nations. 
 
 The group of islands, known under the general 
 name of New Zealand, is situated a little to the west- 
 ward of the 180th deg. of longitude, and between the 
 34th and 48th parallel of S. latitude — extending from 
 north to south upwards of 800 geographical miles, 
 with an average breadth of 100 miles, and containing 
 an extent of surface equal to that of the British Isl- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 125 
 
 ands. The coast line, following the various indenta- 
 tions of the land, extends upwards of 3000 miles, and 
 comprises a greater number of eligible islands, har- 
 bors, bays and roadsteads, than is to be found along 
 an equal extent of coast in any other part of the 
 world. 
 
 The Bay of Islands, a name derived from the num- 
 ber of rocks with which it is studded, is a remarkably ' 
 fine and capacious harbor, and affords shelter in all 
 seasons, and all weathers, to a large number of ves- 
 sels. Its width, from head to head, is about eleven 
 miles, affording sufficient room for vessels to beat in. 
 A great number of European and American vessels 
 touch at this harbor for supplies of fresh provisions 
 and vegetables; most of them are upwards of 300 
 tons. This bay has been surveyed with great care 
 and correctness by two French ships, La Coquilla, in 
 1824, and La Astrolobe, in 1830, 1, 2 and 3. Its 
 anchorages are various, namely : — Tepuna, a road- 
 stead on the northern side of the bay, opposite the 
 missionary station of that name, and the native vil- 
 j lage of Rangihoua Paroa, a deep bay on the south 
 side of the islands, a snug and capacious harbor, af- 
 fording shelter from all winds, and is the anchorage 
 which the whaling vessels formerly made use of. 
 
 The anchorages now generally used, are the Bay 
 of Kororareka and the River Kawakawa. The 
 former is used by vessels wanting a slight refitting, or 
 for procuring water and refreshments; — the Kawaka- 
 wa, when repairs to any extent are necessary, or the 
 replacing of the masts, being more secured, and hav- 
 ing the shores nearer them, from which they procure 
 the greater portion of their supplies, with the excep- 
 
126 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 tion of provisions. Both these anchorage grounds 
 possess sufficient water for ships of the greatest ton- 
 nage. 
 
 There fall into this bay the Rivers Kidi Kidi, in 
 which, at the distance of about two miles from the 
 mission, are the magnificent falls of Wani Wani , or 
 u waters of the Rain Bow the Warooa, with its falls ; 
 the Manganeri : the Palconda, the Kawakawa, and 
 many minor streams ; their banks and the interior of 
 the country presenting one of the richest soils of the 
 whole island, yielding crops when cultivated, of 
 every kind known in the country, in the greatest 
 abundance. It is nearly equally divided by Cook’s 
 Straits. The islands abound in fine timber, and 
 most of the European vegetables grow in the greatest 
 abundance. W e did not visit any other part but the 
 Bay of Islands. The village of Kororareka, the 
 principal village at the Bay of Islands, stands on the 
 west side, as you pass up, and is the principal anchor- 
 age for ships. On the opposite shore is the mission- 
 ary station of the Rev. Mr. Williams, at Paikia. 
 Kororareka is filled with convicts from New South 
 Wales, and, as is natural to suppose, are corrupt in 
 the extreme, there being no laws to restrain them in 
 their evil practices. The natives are exceedingly 
 vicious, and how can we blame them, when they 
 have had such powerful examples set them by their 
 teachers ? It appears that these have been here 
 
 teaching the natives since the year 1814; and in- 
 stead of sowing the seeds of virtue and morality, are 
 disseminating vices of all kinds, drunkenness, licen- 
 tiousness and other abominable crimes. 
 
 And here let it not be supposed that I would ceil- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 127 
 
 sure the enterprise of civilizing and Christianizing 
 these benighted natives ; far from it. Yet it really 
 seems that, in this one instance, these labors have not 
 been productive of as much good as we have a right 
 to expect from the introduction of the truths of Chris- 
 tianity among heathen nations. It is not my prov- 
 ince to assign reasons, but simply to state the facts as 
 I have been able to collect them. It is possible that 
 the counteracting influences of vicious seamen and 
 others visiting these islands, — as is too often true, — 
 have done much to prevent the natural reformatory 
 results of the introduction of the Christian religion. 
 
 NEW ZEALANDERS. 
 
 The natives of this island are, on the whole, a fine 
 looking set of men. They are about the common 
 stature of Europeans generally, though I saw some 
 seven feet and some inches. Their general color is a 
 dark olive, but there is considerable difference among 
 some of them, from a light yellow to a deep copper 
 color. Most of them appear black about the face 
 from the deep punctures, caused by tattooing and the 
 insinuating of a dark liquid into the punctures. This 
 is not confined to the face, but extends to the hips, 
 loins, posteriors, thighs, legs, ankles and feet; and in 
 some instances, the individual, when naked, looks as if 
 clothed in a coat of mail. Their faces are round and 
 well proportioned ; they have fine proportioned noses, 
 generally full at the point, with well formed mouths. 
 Their lips are full ; they have fine white teeth, well 
 set ; their eyes are large and strong ; the white looks of 
 a greyish cast, as if affected with the jaundice. Their 
 hair is jet black, straight, coarse and strong; they 
 
128 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 wear it cut short, with a hunch upon the top of the 
 head. The women are smaller than the men ; they 
 are ugly, and generally perform all the labor out of 
 doors. They, as well as the men, tattoo, but in dif- 
 ferent parts of the body, — the mouth and labia puden- 
 di are the parts which, according to their custom, 
 must be tattooed before they are considered elegible 
 to the matrimonial state. 
 
 The beauty and symmetry of the New Zealanders, 
 probably, are owing mainly to their habits. They 
 are accustomed to much exercise and have generally 
 vigorous and athletic constitutions, seldom or never 
 afflicted with those maladies which seem to be the 
 necessary attendants upon civilization, though there 
 can be no doubt that they are the result of gross 
 abuses. Deformity is almost entirely unknown. 
 Some of those of modern days, in this age of intelli- 
 gence and refinement, would be regarded in New 
 Zealand as prodigies, and would surprise those sim- 
 ple and comparatively consistent people. They have 
 hut few wants for the body, and these are supplied 
 without much aid from culinary art. Their food is 
 taken from the bosom of the earth, spontaneously 
 supplied in the form of bulbous roots, &c. 
 
 In their simplicity, they present to the world forms 
 which the civilized might envy, and a vigor of body 
 and mind, which gives them a preeminence over 
 many of their savage neighbors of different habits. 
 Though active and energetic, they are not, — like 
 some others. — warlike and brutal, but blend muscu- 
 lar strength and vivacity with comparative docility. 
 They are the antipodes of those of New Holland, in 
 about the same latitude, who, in their degradation, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 129 
 
 feast upon the carcases of dead whales, which by 
 chance float upon their shores. Both are savages, 
 but the one is intellectual, active and man-like , the 
 other corrupt, deformed physically and mentally, de- 
 graded and brutal. 
 
 I shall not here enter into a description of their 
 teachers, as the limits of my book will not allow it : 
 for if all their crimes were recorded, they would fill a 
 large volume. 
 
 We left New Zealand on the 6th of April, accom- 
 panied by all of the squadron, except the Peacock. 
 Our passage was quite pleasant, the wind favoring — 
 a striking contrast with the scenes through which we 
 had passed while on the coast of the newly discovered 
 continent. In a few days after our departure, we 
 passed Sunday Island, but without stopping. The 
 water, during this part of our cruise, wore a very 
 phosphorescent appearance, giving it an enlivened as- 
 pect. As we passed along, several islands were in 
 sight, but our particular commission did not require a 
 stay at them. This part of our passage was not sig- 
 nalized by any remarkable occurrences. We were, 
 however, somewhat startled by the violent crash of 
 our vessel, as she struck a rock while passing through 
 a narrow channel. She “ heeled down” considerably 
 for a time, but soon passed over it without any very 
 serious damage. On the 23d we made the west point 
 of the Tongataboo Island, where we were to make ob- 
 servations. 
 
 The Island of Tongataboo is flat and sandy, and 
 covered with cocoa-nut trees. A destructive war was 
 raging between the heathen and Christian party of 
 this island. It occurred to me that the missionaries 
 
130 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 were placed in a dangerous situation, but they seemed 
 to make themselves quite easy and place implicit 
 confidence in their proselytes to protect them. Ton- 
 gataboo, though nearly one hundred miles in circum- 
 ference, is perfectly flat and rises only a few feet 
 above the level of the sea. 
 
 The only elevated spot is a small hill, which is not, 
 I think, more than one hundred feet in height ; wheth- 
 er natural or artificial, I did not ascertain, as I had 
 but few opportunities of visiting the shore ; and then 
 it was only for a few moments at a time. On the 
 top of this is a fort, where all the people of the dis- 
 trict concentrate when driven to extremities, in time 
 of war. This hill is particularly memorable in the 
 annals of Tonga warfare, from the circumstance of its 
 having been the first place where the inhabitants felt 
 the effects and deadly power of the cannon ball. The 
 Christian part of the Tonga army was then encamped 
 upon the top of this hill, expecting every moment to 
 be attacked by their enemies. On the top of the hill 
 is erected a strong reed fence, entrenched around by a 
 deep ditch. Inside of the fortification, they have 
 several pieces of cannon of small calibre. The prin- 
 cipal chief of the Christian party is named by the 
 missionaries “King George,” after the King of Eng- 
 land : his native name I have not learned. 
 
 The day after our arrival the belligerent parties 
 met and had a skirmishing engagement, but nothing 
 on either side was effected. 
 
 It having been agreed by both parties that the isl- 
 and on which we had onr observatory should be con- 
 sidered as neutral ground, and nothing should be 
 molested, and also that no native should go there 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 131 
 
 without Captain Wilkes’s order or permission, we 
 had but little concern with this war. On the 23d 
 April the Porpoise arrived, and came to anchor near 
 us. In the afternoon, the Yincennes, Brig Porpoise 
 and Schooner Flying Fish stood over for the village, 
 the brig and schooner running upon a reef. Boats 
 were sent from the ship to their assistance ; they were 
 j both soon got off. however, and came to anchor oflf the 
 village near us. A rather singular incident occurred 
 on the morning of the 4th. It was discovered that 
 during the night, two females, natives of the Fiji 
 Islands, had swum to the schooner, and were admit- 
 ted on board. Their intention was to get a passage 
 back to the Fijis ; they were sent to the Peacock, and 
 from her to this ship, and were sent on shore with the 
 j pilot when he left the ship. 
 
 The reason why these women left and swam this 
 distance of ten miles , was to escape from the cruel 
 treatment which was inflicted on them by the natives 
 of this village. They had been tied up by the wrist 
 for forty-eight hours, and in such a position that their 
 toes nearly touched the ground. This, as may be 
 supposed, would cause any person to leave such a 
 class of people. They were, in my opinion, better 
 than any of their more enlightened neighbors, for I 
 candidly believe there is not a philanthropist among 
 j them. 
 
 Intemperance rages here to a great extent among 
 some classes of natives. The first thing the native 
 !' pilot asked for, on boarding us, was a bottle of rum. 
 
 From this island we proceeded to the Fiji Islands, 
 for the purpose of examining and surveying them. 
 Nothing of importance happened on the passage, and 
 
132 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 we arrived off the Island of Ovalau on the 6th May, 
 and on the following morning, stood into the harbor 
 and came to anchor near the village of Laboaka, Isl- 
 and of Ovalau. 
 
 On coming to anchor we were boarded by some 
 white men from a little trading schooner which came 
 out to meet us ; the chief mate of the American trading 
 ship Leonidas was the commander. His name is 
 Wynn, and has traded a great deal among these isl- 
 ands. 
 
 Thousands of natives assembled on the beach to 
 witness the operation of furling the sails ; and when 
 the men went aloft and lay out on the yards, the na- 
 tives on shore raised the loudest shout that I ever 
 heard. Shortly after our arrival the principal chief 
 of the village paid us a visit, with a number of white 
 men who reside on shore. The natives flocked in 
 great numbers alongside with yams, fish and other 
 things of this kind to trade, and in a few moments a 
 brisk business was underway. Our South Sea pilot 
 and interpreter was overwhelmed in business, and the 
 jargon he used, and that of the natives, might with pro- 
 priety vie with that of Babel. In some of the canoes 
 were women and children as naked as our first pa- 
 rents, when inhabitants of the garden of Eden. Yet 
 many of the females seemed quite modest and sensi- 
 ble of their destitute situation. The men wore a 
 mara , that is, a strip of tappa passed over the loins. 
 
 The schooner Flying Fish arrived on the 11th, 
 having been ashore on a coral reef, and carried away 
 a portion of her false keel. This morning the Launch 
 and first cutter sailed in charge of Lieutenant Alden 
 and Sailing Master Knox, to make surveys among the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 133 
 
 various islands and reefs. The next morning the 
 Peacock’s first sea cutter sailed in charge of Passed 
 Mid. Simon F. Blunt, and also the Peacock’s launch, 
 in charge of Lieutenant Emmons, sailed on a survey- 
 ing excursion to operate with the other boats which 
 had sailed the preceding day. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 General Remarks — Fiji Islands — Cannibalism — A Convict Ex- 
 ile — Death of a Shipmate — Encounter with the Natives — Visit 
 at Muth water — A Fatal Contest with the Natives. 
 
 “The natives, while the ship departs the land, 
 
 Ashore with admiration, gazing stand. 
 
 Majestically slow, before the breeze, 
 
 In silent pomp she marches on the seas ; 
 
 Her milk-white bottom cast a softer gleam, 
 
 While trembling through the green, translucent stream, 
 
 Thus the rich vessel moves in trim array, 
 
 Like some fair virgin on her bridal day. 
 
 Thus like a swan she cleaves the watery plain, 
 
 The pride and wonder of the mighty main.” 
 
 Falconer v 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS AND OBSERVATIONS ON THE FIJI ISL- 
 ANDS. 
 
 The Fiji Islands are a numerous group between 
 the parallels of 15 deg. 05 min. and 19 deg. south 
 latitude, and extends from about 177 deg. to 182 deg. 
 east longitude. They were discovered by Abel Jansz 
 Lansman in 1643, after his discovery of Tongataboo r 
 12 
 
134 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 although never made known to the public by the 
 Dutch Government, until after they were generally 
 known to Europe. Captain James Cook, while at 
 Tongataboo in 1773, learned that there was a large 
 island by the name of the Fijis, situated N. W. by 
 W., about three days sail from Tongataboo. Capt. 
 James Bligh, of the Bounty, fell in with the eastern 
 part of the Fiji Group, in long. 178 deg. west, and in 
 19 deg. 50 min. south lat., in 1791, on his passage in the 
 Launch of the ship to the Straits of Timore. Captain 
 Wilson, in the ship Duff, visited these islands, to land 
 missionaries, as early as 1797, but was prevented, 
 from the great difficulty he experienced in the navi- 
 gation among them, and the hostile appearance of the 
 natives. 
 
 The Fiji, or Yiji Islands, may be divided into three 
 divisions. 1st. The weather, or eastern group, com- 
 prising Lakemba and the surrounding islands; 2d. 
 The Yiji Levu, or great Yiji, and its neighboring isl- 
 ands; and 3d. Tarkanava, or North Islands, and 
 those adjacent. 
 
 These divisions contain a group, said by the natives 
 to amount to 200 in number. Yiji Levu possesses the 
 largest river, and is navigable for many miles, as well 
 as other islands which have rivers, for canoes, for 
 twenty or thirty miles in the interior. Two of these 
 islands, Yiji Levu, Yenna Leva, possess such a vast 
 interior, that the inhabitants have never seen the sea, 
 and speak a diiferent language from those residing on 
 the seaboard. There has not, as yet, been any infor- 
 mation obtained of their number, maimers and cus- 
 toms of the natives. The natives told us that many 
 of the districts in the interior contained more inhabi- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 135 
 
 tants than the island of Tongataboo. Most of the isl- 
 ands are covered with trees and shrubbery corres- 
 ponding to the islands in the South Pacific Ocean. 
 The formation of the Fiji Islands varies much ; they 
 are, no doubt, of volcanic origin. From what I saw, 
 I should say that it is not many years since some of 
 them were in full and active eruption. Their geolog- 
 j ical structure, as far as my observations extended, 
 is as follows : — Ovalauh as large beds of ferruginous 
 marl, and is conglomerated, showing plainly that it 
 has not been a very long time since it experienced a 
 greater convulsion of the earth ; it is very mountain- 
 ous, and has a beautiful appearance. Viji Levu 
 abounds in rock of a hexagonal form, apparently 
 composed of a basaltes bau, and appears to be indu- 
 | rated clay — the clay containing nodules of grit. 
 Banga appears to have been a vast volcano, for there 
 have been found at the height of eighty-six feet, large 
 excavations caused by heat, and was covered with 
 scoria; and the harbor, which is said to be a beautiful 
 one, was formed by a crater, once in active operation. 
 All the islands, and passages between them, in this 
 group, are surrounded with coral reefs, and require 
 the greatest attention in navigating them. The isl- 
 ands are generally destitute of good bays or harbors, 
 only so far as this is compensated for by reefs, which 
 sweep around, so as to form good breakwaters, and 
 afford protection from the violence of the ocean. I 
 think it would be unsafe for any person to attempt to 
 navigate these passages without a good pilot, and I 
 believe these may be procured at Ovalau, as there is 
 a large number of white men residing at Labouka, 
 who are always cruising and trading among these isl- 
 
136 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ands. They are quite well acquainted with all the 
 difficult and dangerous reefs, passages, &c. Most of 
 the coral reefs are thickly covered with the evergreen 
 mangrove tree, for miles along the shores, which forms 
 an impenetrable barrier to large boats, and at the same 
 time, forming an ambuscade for the natives. On 
 many of the islands, I am told, are large forest trees, 
 in great variety. Some, I have no doubt, would 
 answer for ship building, and also for houses. Our 
 Botanist obtained some new specimens of plants, of 
 considerable value. 
 
 The climate, at the time that we were there, was 
 remarkably fine, though it was the winter months 
 among the islands. The wind is said to blow in 
 gusts from the south, several days in each month ; 
 during these gusts it is cold and chilly — little, or no 
 dew at night. The thermometer ranged, during our 
 stay here, from 70 deg. to 87 deg. ; blankets were ac- 
 ceptable at night. The soil is rich and productive, 
 and requires but little labor. The inhabitants are 
 naturally indolent, and depend mostly upon the spon- 
 taneous productions of the islands for a subsistence. 
 All kinds of tropical productions, and fruits, grow 
 spontaneously in great abundance. These islands 
 have some fine specimens of birds ; some of them 
 wear the richest plumage I ever saw — particularly 
 the parrot tribe. The quadrupeds are mostly intro- 
 duced by foreigners ; cattle, hogs, and turkeys thrive 
 well. The rat is the only wild animal that they 
 have. Of reptiles, there are but few — the lizard and 
 snake were all I have seen ; one snake, in particular, 
 “ a water snake,” was worshiped as a spirit. 
 
 In 1835, two Wesleyan missionaries came to the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 137 
 
 Fiji Islands from Tongataboo, and since that time 
 there has been a reinforcement of them, but their 
 prospects are rather discouraging. Whether it is 
 from the nature of the people they have to deal with, 
 or from other causes, I am not able to determine. One 
 thing is certain, however, which is, that comparative- 
 ly little has yet been accomplished. In reference to 
 their education, a beginning simply has been made* 
 An alphabet has been formed, a grammar and diction- 
 ary have been printed, together with a few tracts. 
 
 Polygamy is common among all the islands ; the 
 chiefs buy as many wives as they wish, or the wives 
 and daughters of their enemies, when taken, are kept 
 as wives, or slaves. The females are very robust, 
 and female children, I observed, are very numerous. 
 The whole population of this numerous group of isl- 
 ands has been estimated by residents of long standing 
 among them, at 200,000. Women are in great de- 
 mand at many of the islands, and most of the wars 
 are occasioned for, and about women ; and yet they 
 are treated in a very brutal manner, in most cases 
 worse than the slaves of Brazil, and obliged to per- 
 form most of the labor, both in and out of doors, for 
 the support of the family. The chiefs — and there are 
 many of different ranks among them — do not always 
 succeed the father in his rank. 
 
 The houses of the natives are built throughout all 
 the islands on the same plan, and generally construct- 
 ed of the same materials ; a foundation of stone or 
 coral is first laid, and then the timber for sill and cor- 
 ner posts, then the rafters, — all of which are nicely 
 fastened together with cinct, and done with such reg- 
 ularity as to be very neat and beautiful, when there 
 12 * 
 
138 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 is a variety of colors displayed. Then comes small 
 rods lashed to the rafters, on which the grass is 
 thatched from the top to the bottom. They have one 
 or two doors, very small. One end of the floor is 
 raised and covered with mats of several thicknesses ; 
 this is generally screened off with mats, and used as 
 their sleeping apartments ; and at the other end is a 
 place in which they cook, having a pit dug and lined 
 with stones, which will contain from two to three 
 cooking jars; over this is a swinging rack, where 
 they keep most of their cooking utensils. 
 
 The Bure , or spirit house, is constructed with great 
 pains, and besides, there is a temple which answers 
 the double purpose of a town-house for public meet- 
 ings, and to entertain strangers, who may be present. 
 Many of the chiefs pass the greater part of their time 
 in the Bure. All the property of the god to which 
 the house has been dedicated, is kept here ; this con- 
 sists of presents from the chiefs, and others, who have 
 made vows to the gods for recovering from sickness, 
 sp#eess in war, and destruction of their enemies. 
 These presents are generally made use of by the 
 priest, or numbatal , who look well to their own inter- 
 ests, as a natural consequence. One of their most re- 
 volting traits of character is Cannibalism ; these na- 
 tives, on all occasions, prefer human flesh to that of 
 other animals. The priest of Overlau told me that it 
 was not for revenge that they kill their men to eat, 
 but merely from choice. They kill them either by 
 strangling, or knock their brains out; they are then 
 bled, after which the intestines are taken out and 
 washed. A large pit is dug, and the stones, wood 
 and banana leaves, are all brought ; after the whole 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 139 
 
 has become ignited, and the pit sufficiently heated, 
 the operation of cutting up the body is commenced, 
 which is generally performed by the one who kills 
 him. The limbs are taken off according to certain 
 rules, — first the right foot and left hand, dismembering 
 alternately, until the whole is completely cut up. 
 The bones and limbs are then wrapped carefully in 
 banana leaves, put into the pit and hot stones put 
 over them, and then the whole is covered with earth, 
 there remaining for eight or ten hours, and if it is a 
 white man, he is not eaten until the next day. I was 
 told by a white man who has resided many years 
 among them, that he has seen on the island of Bau 
 six hundred human victims cooked and eaten in one 
 day, after a battle. 
 
 Natives of the Fijis, or Yiji Islands, taken together, 
 are a wild, ferocious people, and to judge from physi- 
 ognomy, that, “ Vultus est index anime ,” you would 
 set them down as a villanous set of beings. There is 
 considerable variety in their color, from the mulatto 
 to the negro; their hair is curly, hard and crisp. 
 They are generally tall and well formed. Their 
 heads are well moulded, have high foreheads, large 
 eyes, wide mouths, fine teeth, and most of them have 
 pleasing countenances, when in the presence of stran- 
 gers. I have never seen a corpulent Fiji man or an 
 obese woman; the men are spare, on account of their 
 roving disposition, and the women, from having to do 
 all the laboring work, and besides, living principally 
 upon a vegetable diet. It is uncommon to see many 
 of them who have lived to a good old age, for they 
 often destroy their old and infirm, for the purpose of 
 avoiding an increase of labor and trouble ! 
 
140 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 On the 13th of May, the Peacock sailed for an ad- 
 jacent island, for the purpose of surveying it, and to 
 endeavor to capture a chief, who had caused the mur- 
 der of the chief mate, and part of the crew of the brig 
 Charles Doggett, in 1832. 
 
 We received a visit from a white man, who in- 
 formed us that he had been among these islands for 
 nearly forty years. He is a native of Ireland, by the 
 name of O’Connell. He stated that he was sent to 
 Port Jackson in 1800, as a convict, and by some mys- 
 terious means contrived to make his escape, and at 
 which time he joined a privateer which touched at 
 one of these islands ; from this he deserted, and has 
 remained here an exile from home ever since. He 
 was in a perfect state of nudity, except, like the na- 
 tives, he wore a piece of tappa about the loins. 
 He wore his hair long, and also his heard, hanging 
 down on the breast ; upon the whole he was a miser- 
 able looking object. 
 
 In a short time after his departure, we received in- 
 formation that Captain Hudson, in the Peacock, had 
 captured the chief, who was the cause of the before- 
 mentioned murder. From a respectable source, Capt. 
 Wilkes learned that an attack on the observatory was 
 contemplated by the natives of the island, to which 
 the captured chief belonged. The object of the na- 
 tives was to secure Capt. Wilkes, and by that means 
 make an exchange of prisoners. He immediately 
 moved on board the ship, leaving the observatory in 
 charge of Lieut. Perry and Passed Midshipman. Eld. 
 A reinforcement of marines was sent on shore with 
 twenty seamen, armed and equipped for any emer- 
 gency. The ship was hauled in opposite to the oh- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 141 
 
 servatory and placed with springs on her cables so as 
 to bring the guns to bear on each side of it. At night 
 the guns were all loaded, the tompkins left out, the 
 battle lanterns lighted and placed between the guns, 
 and no hammocks allowed to hang n^r the battery. 
 The night passed without any disturbance, except by 
 a false alarm, caused by the accidental discharge of 
 the musket of one of the sentinels. 
 
 On the 18th June, David Bateman, formerly a 
 marine belonging to the Brig Porpoise, breathed his 
 last, and his spirit winged its way to unknown re- 
 gions above. He had been suffering some time with 
 phithisis pulmonalis, and was, when removed to this 
 ship, very weak and emaciated. The day after our 
 arrival here he was removed to comfortable quarters 
 on shore, where he could enjoy more quiet. Every 
 thing had been done for him that could be thought of 
 by the surgeon; but alas ! all availed nothing. . A post 
 mortem examination proved that his disease would 
 have baffled the skill of the most experienced sur- 
 geon, and that too, under any circumstances, however 
 favorable. The same evening his remains were de- 
 posited in the place of sepulchre, in a small garden 
 which had been enclosed by Mr. Breckenridge. The 
 corpse was followed to the place of interment by the 
 marine guard and a party of seamen, also several of 
 the officers. The beautiful and impressive burial ser- 
 vice of the Meth. Episcopal church was read by Mr 
 Waldron, purser; and the body was deposited in its 
 final resting-place. He was buried with the honors 
 of war. Three volleys of musketry were fired over 
 the grave by the marines ; the earth was then thrown 
 
142 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 on and the grave filled up, which closed the melan- 
 choly scene. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th, the observatory was 
 broken up, and all the instruments removed on board, 
 preparatory to leaving the island. At 10 o’clock, all 
 things being ready, we hove up our anchor and bade 
 adieu to our friends the natives of Ovalau, schooner 
 in company. 
 
 On the same evening we came to anchor in the har - 
 bor of Protection Island, a small, uninhabited island. 
 This island is situated about twenty -five miles from 
 Ovalau, is about ten miles in circumference, and rises 
 in some places almost perpendicularly from the sea 
 shore. This harbor, like that of Laboaka, is formed 
 by a coral reef, which makes out from the island, and 
 sweeps around in a curved direction, leaving a nar- 
 row, but safe passage. The island is thickly covered 
 with wood, and the acclivities of the hills richly vari- 
 egated with shrubbery and vegetation. 
 
 On the following day, we got underway and pro- 
 ceeded to Saba Saba, at which place we did not arrive 
 until the 1st of July, though the distance is only six- 
 teen miles : this was owing to a strong head current 
 and light wind. We anchored outside of the reef, 
 the wind being too light to venture through the pas- 
 sage, which is very narrow, and has a strong current. 
 During the evening and night we caught some very 
 fine fish, among which were found one or two new 
 specimens. 
 
 The next morning we got underway and stood in 
 through the narrow passage, and anchored in the 
 inner harbor, about one mile from the celebrated 
 u boiling springs.” Captain Wilkes allowed all of the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 143 
 
 men to visit these springs ; accordingly, on the 4th of 
 July, all the men that could he spared out of the ship 
 improved the proffered recreation. These springs are 
 eleven in number, situated on a level plain near the 
 beach, with a rivulet running through, which is not 
 at all affected by the heat from the springs; — the 
 water in the rivulet being perfectly cool and of an 
 excellent quality. The formation of these springs is 
 certainly volcanic, and confirms me in the belief that 
 all these islands are of that origin. The surface of 
 the earth every where in the neighborhood of the 
 springs was so hot, that we could not walk on it 
 with bare feet. The temperature of the water was 
 212 degrees. The natives come from all parts of the 
 island to visit these springs, particularly when any 
 great feast is to be held ; they there cook their food in 
 them. One of them is considered sacred, and is used 
 only for cooking human flesh. The surface of the 
 ground in the neighborhood is strewed with the 
 bleached bones of these victims. 
 
 July 12th. Our Launch returned from a survey- 
 ing cruise among the islands, in charge of Lieut. Per- 
 ry. He brought with him Mr. Knox and Mid. 
 Thompson and the crew of 1st cutter ; also two chiefs 
 whom they had taken as prisoners. The 1st cutter 
 got ashore on a reef off the island of Sour Laib, and 
 was captured by the natives of that island; and 
 the officers and crew were obliged to flee to the 
 Launch for safety, which was only a short distance 
 from them. In consequence of a strong gale which 
 was blowing at that time, and the dampness of the 
 ammunition, they were unable to prevent the cap- 
 ture of the cutter. Luckily for the crew, however, 
 
144 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 the natives busied themselves so much in removing 
 the plunder, that they did not interfere with their es- 
 cape, and by this means they passed unmolested to 
 the Launch. 
 
 Captain Wilkes immediately made preparations for 
 punishing the savages. He had the schooner Flying 
 Fish fitted out and manned, together with the launch 
 and six or eight small boats, with the 1st cutter of 
 the Peacock, all armed and manned. At 4 o’clock the 
 same evening, all those who were to take part in the 
 expedition were mustered in boats, and Captain 
 Wilkes joined the schooner; shortly after, all made 
 sail for Sour Laib, a distance of about sixteen miles. 
 The wind being contrary, they did not arrive at their 
 place of destination until 10 o’clock of the next day. 
 On the arrival of the party, Captain Wilkes went on 
 shore with a party of armed men, met the chief, and 
 by means of an interpreter held a parley with him, in 
 which he demanded the boat and all of the property 
 that had been stolen from it. The chief replied, “ that 
 it was a tradition among them that when a boat or 
 canoe was cast away on their island, that they had a 
 right to take possession of it in the name of their gods, 
 to whom it belonged.” Captain Wilkes endeavored 
 to explain to him the impropriety of such conduct, 
 and tried to make him understand how he should act 
 in such cases ; but to this he seemed to pay but little 
 attention, and gave the Captain but little satisfaction. 
 He told the chief that if the property was not imme- 
 diately delivered up, he should commence hostilities 
 against them and endeavor to desolate the island. 
 To this the chief replied very carelessly, u that it was 
 not in his power to restore the property, as it was 
 
1 
 
 OF SAILOR LIFE. 145 
 
 scattered over the whole island,” and seemed to inti- 
 mate that he should not try. but said that he was 
 willing to give up the boat. This did not satisfy 
 Captain Wilkes ; therefore he ordered the men to re- 
 pair to the schooner, get some refreshments and rest 
 a short time, for they were much fatigued, not having 
 rested, eaten or slept during the night. This news 
 was received with enthusiastic applause, as they 
 wished to show their superiority to the savages. 
 
 Accordingly, after partaking of the necessary re- 
 freshment, and taking a few moments’ repose, they all 
 left the schooner, to the number of eighty men. Capt. 
 Wilkes lay off in his gig, so that he might see the de- 
 struction as it progressed. The party on shore was 
 commanded by Capt. Hudson, of the Peacock. On 
 the approach of the men, the natives retreated, and 
 continued to recede as the men advanced toward the 
 village, until they took up their position about three 
 hundred yards from the village, and did not offer the 
 slightest resistance to the destruction of their property. 
 
 At the village the work of destruction commenced 
 by setting fire to their houses, destroying their tarro 
 beds, killing their hogs, burning up their yams and 
 yam houses, breaking up their war canoes, and in fact 
 destroying every thing that fell in their way. The 
 natives during this time fired a few random shots 
 from the bushes and jungles, but no injury was the 
 consequence. Several ventured to peep from their 
 hiding places, but no sooner did they show their faces 
 than they felt the deadly power of our rifles. Sky- 
 rockets were thrown in among them, but their posi- 
 tion was so secure that it did no other harm than to 
 frighten them. This it did effectually, which was in- 
 13 
 
146 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 dicatedby their loud yells, and their cry of “ curlew l 
 curlew !! curlew III ” spirits ! spirits !! spirits !!! 
 
 After seeing the town burnt down and the work of 
 destruction completed, they all returned to their boats, 
 and on the way burned another small town. When 
 the men had all embarked, the natives ventured from 
 their hiding places, came, within a short distance of 
 the boats, and fired a few random shots. But they 
 were not sufficiently near to be able to do any dam- 
 age. 
 
 The Launch did not arrive in time to partake in 
 the affray, she having got aground on a coral reef, 
 and did not get off until late in the evening. The 
 party ventured to the ship about midnight. The 
 next morning the chief of Sandal Wood Bay came on 
 board, and asked for the two prisoners whom the 
 Launch had taken at Sour Laib, saying that they 
 wanted to eat them, as they were their prisoners. His 
 request, however, was not granted. 
 
 Sandal Wood Bay, or Miambore Bay, is a well pro- 
 tected place of anchorage. The natives are rather 
 more diminutive than those of Ovalau, and of a more 
 ferocious nature. They have a custom of circumci- 
 sion, similar to that of the ancient Jews, and none 
 are eligible to marry until they have passed this or- 
 deal. This operation is performed at the death of 
 some favorite chief, to manifest their grief at his loss. 
 Another of their horrible customs is that of putting to 
 death a number of the favorite wives of the deceased, 
 and a number of the male relatives. Some of the 
 chiefs have twenty wives, and those who are his fa- 
 vorites in this world, are the ones chosen to afcorn- 
 pany him on his passage to the other world. I am 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 147 
 
 told that so great is their desire to accompany him, 
 that disputes often arise between them to know who 
 has the best right to this preferment. 
 
 On the 22d, a melancholy event occurred in the 
 death of the third mate of the trading ship Leonidas, 
 who came to an untimely end in the most shocking 
 manner. While the Peacock was engaged in survey- 
 ing the harbor of Muthwater, the Leonidas was there 
 at anchor; she being an armed vessel, Captain Hud- 
 son requested her commander to assist with her guns 
 in firing to measure distances. It was accordingly 
 assented to, and it was during one of these discharges 
 that the accident happened. The second mate, act- 
 ing in the capacity of a gunner, and being unac- 
 quainted with gunnery, neglected to sponge the gun — 
 consequently, when the cylinder was put in and 
 rammed home, when in the act of priming, the pow- 
 der which he was pouring in, communicated with a 
 spark that had been inadvertently left in the chamber, 
 and immediately exploded, at the same time catching 
 fire to a cylinder in his bosom, which ignited at the 
 same instant. The explosion was so great that he 
 was literally burned from head to foot, — even the hair 
 was completely burned from his head. In this situa- 
 tion he was removed to the Peacock, where all that 
 surgical skill could do was done for him. He lingered 
 in this state for twenty days, most of the time depriv- 
 ed of reason, and suffering the most excruciating pain. 
 He was interred during the evening, on a point near 
 the harbor. A stone was placed at his head to mark 
 the spot, upon which a suitable epitaph was engraved. 
 
 After finishing our survey at this place, we em- 
 
148 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 barked, intending next to visit the Island of Muth- 
 water. 
 
 In consequence of adverse winds, we were induced 
 to make a short stay at Tevia, a small island about 
 midway between Muth water and the island from 
 which we had just embarked. Here we recruited, 
 and became acquainted, to some extent, with the na- 
 tives. 
 
 The natives of this island are very numerous and 
 warlike, and possess more canoes than any island we 
 had visited among the Fiji group. Hogs, yams and 
 poultry are plenty here. We saw here the remains 
 of the beche-le-mer house which Captain Eckelson, 
 of the ship Leonidas, had erected, while engaged 
 here in curing that article. This is also remarkable as 
 the place where the chevalier Dillon had an engage- 
 ment with the natives, and defeated them with only 
 a few men. When the Peacock was here in June 
 last, a canoe came alongside, having in it the whole 
 body of a roasted man, of which they were eating 
 with great avidity. Some of the flesh was procured 
 by the officers and saved in spirits as a specimen, 
 also the skull and thigh bones were procured. 
 
 On the following day we left this island, and pro- 
 ceeded to Muthwater, where we arrived in the even- 
 ing. The Peacock had reached this harbor before us. 
 
 The town of Muthwater is very large, and is bet- 
 ter protected than any island among this vast group. 
 The town is built on a level plain at the foot of a 
 very high hill, and is quite near the sea shore. These 
 natives possess, in an eminent degree, the art of pil- 
 fering, and are by no means scrupulous in converting 
 to their own use any property they may happen to 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 149 
 
 find ; and in such cases, they make no inquiry about 
 the owner, but are careful to conceal what they have 
 found. Several flags belonging to the Peacock had 
 been stolen from the reefs in the harbor, where they 
 were placed for the purpose of surveying. Captain 
 Hudson demanded of Tuembooa, the king of Muth- 
 water, the immediate restoration of the stolen prop- 
 erty ; and in case they were not returned or satisfac- 
 tion given, he would burn his town. This very 
 much frightened Tuembooa, for he had already heard 
 of our doings at Sour Laib, and had learned the 
 deadly power of our guns. He promised to do all in 
 his power to obtain them, and if he could not, he 
 would pay double the value of them in any produce 
 which the island afforded. He also stated that it 
 was not the natives of his town who had committed 
 the theft, but the mountainers, over whom, he assur- 
 ed Capt. Hudson, he had no control. 
 
 July 31st. Our boats, and those of the Peacock, 
 returned from a surveying cruise among the leeward 
 islands, and while the incidents of the cruise are fresh 
 in my memory, I hasten to give an account of them. 
 
 On the eventful morning of the 24th inst., at day- 
 light, we sent a party on shore to cook a few yams 
 for breakfast, being all the provisions we had left. 
 The brig and schooner, not being in sight, we wished 
 to procure a hostage of note among the cannibals, to 
 hold in our possession, while we went up to the 
 town to trade ; we knew that the savages here were 
 of the most warlike character, and were the dread of 
 all the neighboring islands. While some of the men 
 were cooking the yams, Mr. Underwood and myself 
 went along the beach in search of shells. Mr. U. had 
 13 * 
 
150 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 a rifle, and 1 had a trade hatchet. We walked about 
 half a mile from the place where the men were cook- 
 ing the yams, when we were surprised by about 
 forty warriors, led by the eldest son of the king of 
 Malolo. Mr. U. commenced a conversation with the 
 chief, and meantime I listened to the remarks of the 
 natives, as I could then understand some of their lan- 
 guage, though they were not aware of the fact. One 
 said that he would have my shirt, another, my pants, 
 a third, my hands, and all expected some part of my 
 body for supper. 
 
 After some conversation with Mr. U., relative to 
 his becoming a hostage, the chief left him for a few 
 moments, to consult with his men, and, selecting two 
 large warriors, told them what Mr. U. wanted of him. 
 He remarked to them that he should consent to go, at 
 the same time saying that 1, probably, should be or- 
 dered to conduct him to the boat. He instructed 
 them to kill me, and take Mr. U. prisoner — whom 
 they supposed to be a chief among us — and by that 
 means they should be able to secure our numerous 
 articles of trade, in exchange for him. Knowing the 
 fact that they never fight after their chief is slain, I 
 had but little doubt in reference to his safe arrival at 
 the boat, should he be delivered into my hands. 
 
 He then turned to Mr. U., saying that he was ready 
 to go, and I was ordered to conduct him. Taking 
 his right hand in my left, we started for the boat. On 
 our way I showed him my hatchet, and assured him 
 that if he should go peaceably to the boat, I would 
 present it to him after our arrival, and if he did not, / 
 would give it to him before ! I asked him if he un- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 151 
 
 dersfcood me, and learned that he did. He added that 
 we white men were bad fellows. 
 
 We had not traveled more than half the distance, 
 when I heard a low voice from behind, informing the 
 chief that all was ready. I was not at a loss to di- 
 vine their intentions. A moment had scarcely elapsed 
 ere I had prostrated the chief, and, placing my foot 
 upon his neck, threatened his life, should he refuse to 
 drive them back. After some hesitation, and finding, 
 that I was resolute, he yielded, and was permitted to 
 rise and continue the walk to the boat. He soon, 
 however, manifested a disposition to release his hand 
 from my grasp — which, as I was aware of his inten- 
 tions, might have been too cordial to be 'particularly 
 agreeable. 
 
 When remonstrated with for his apparent treach- 
 ery, he said that he was a good man, and intended to 
 go to the boat. I replied that I was a good man, too , 
 and that I intended that he should go, at the same 
 time increasing the “ sailor grasp,” until he was satis- 
 fied that he could not release himself. 
 
 We then hurried to the boat. 1 gave him up to Mr. 
 Alden, and was then sent for Mr. U., and we returned 
 together to the boat. The men soon after came off 
 with our breakfast, and at the same time the Peacock’s 
 first cutter, under Lieut. Emmons, joined us. At 9 
 o’clock, A. M., we got underway in the Leopard, tak- 
 ing the hostage into our boat, and rowed up for the 
 town ; the natives came round us as we struck on 
 the reef connecting Malolo Lib and Malolo Lili, and 
 every mark of treachery was apparent in their coun- 
 tenances. 
 
 As soon as the boat struck, we jumped out, leaving 
 
152 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 two men and the officer to guard the hostage ; the 
 natives came rushing round us with a shout of tri- 
 umph, and filled the boat to its utmost capacity. We 
 attempted to draw the boat over the reef, but our ef- 
 forts were unavailing. Knowing that they were fond 
 of music, we commenced one of the songs that are fre- 
 quently sung in the merchant service, while hoisting 
 heavy freight, to produce uniformity of movement by 
 the aid of the music. This was a beautiful exempli- 
 fication of the fact, that “ music hath charms to soothe 
 the savage breast;” for no sooner had we entered 
 into the spirit of the music, than they, one by one, 
 joined us, and ere they were aware, we were again 
 on our loved element. How great must have been 
 their chagrin, when they saw that they had been dis- 
 appointed in their repast upon human flesh ! 
 
 In accordance with their tradition in reference to 
 such as are so unfortunate as to get upon their reefs, 
 they had marked us as their victims. So great was 
 the effect of the music, that they not only 'permitted 
 us to escape, but literally aided us by grasping the 
 rope, and attempting to sing with us, although their 
 tune differed as widely from ours as did their words. 
 As soon as the boat was afloat, some of us reentered, 
 and induced such as were willing to do so, to jump 
 overboard; and such as were not, we “hove” over, 
 and taking in our own men, we went around to the 
 town to buy our provisions. We anchored more than 
 a quarter of a mile from the beach. 
 
 A wide flat makes out from the beach, and the tide 
 being low, we could get no nearer in the boat. Mr. 
 Underwood had a brace of pistols, and three men 
 had rifles ; one man went without arms, to carry the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. - 
 
 153 
 
 box of trade. The natives were sitting under the 
 shade of a tree, and to its branches they had hung all 
 their arms ; they had also tied two pigs to it. 
 
 The king was fishing when we reached there, and 
 we were obliged to wait for him before we could com- 
 mence a trade, as he allowed no one else to trade with 
 white men. When he came we found him a surly 
 old man, apparently about fifty-five years of age. 
 His eyes were sore, and he wore a white cap on his 
 head, which he drew partly over his eyes to protect 
 them from the sun. His whole appearance was mo- 
 rose and vicious, and he wanted four times as much 
 for the pigs as we had been in the habit of giving any 
 where else, and said he did not care whether we took 
 them or not. Provisions we must get somewhere, 
 and Mr U. agreed to give him his price. Knowing 
 that the natives were fond of music, I sang some live- 
 ly airs for the king, with which he seemed much 
 pleased, and it was the only time I saw him smile. 
 
 One of the pieces sung, was a song called “ All in 
 the Tonga Islands,” which contains the following 
 couplet : — 
 
 “ They said they’d cut me up like pork, 
 
 And eat me without knife or fork.” 
 
 The king having obtained some knowledge of the lan- 
 guage, by trading with whalemen, turned to some of 
 his men, and said, “ He knows that we are going to 
 eat him. But I determined to spoil his appetite if 
 possible, before he sat down to the “mess,” should he 
 attack iis. 
 
 Mr. Alden took the hostage out of our boat into his 
 
154 
 
 UTGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 own, as soon as he anchored, and Mr. Henry, a brave 
 and excellent young midshipman, came on shore from 
 the Launch, armed with a bowie knife and pistol ; 
 when he came up to us, the king sent several men 
 into the town for some yams and fowls, as he said. 
 Shortly after, the hostage treacherously jumped out 
 of the Launch and dashed through the shallow water 
 for the shore. With a well-meant, but unappreciated 
 forbearance, a shot was fired over him, to induce him 
 to come back. This seemed the signal for the work 
 of death to commence ; two Indians seized my rifle, 
 and attempted to take it from me. I drew my knife, 
 and asked Mr, Underwood if I should give it up or 
 fight: he answered, “ fight.” I instantly stabbed 
 one, and he knocked the other senseless with a blow 
 on the head with his pistol. John D unnock shot 
 another. As this was going on, I saw as many as 
 forty more joining the throng on the beach from the 
 town ; among them was a man with a large scar 
 under the left eye, and I knew him to be one of the 
 men whom the king had sent to the town for yams 
 and fowls. Some of the men fled to the boat on the 
 first attack ; others fired their rifles, and finding it 
 impossible to load again, followed them. Mr. Under- 
 wood, Mr. Henry and myself, were all that remained 
 to fight at least ninety men. The air around our 
 heads was literally filled with clubs and spears. 
 Hearing an Indian shouting Turanga , Turanga. I 
 knew that he was hailing Mr. Underwood, and turned 
 to see what he wanted. He was within fifteen feet of 
 us, and his spear was quivering in his hand ; the next 
 moment Mr. Underwood would have been transfixed 
 by it. As I raised my rifle to fire at him, an Indian 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 155 
 
 sprang out with a musket from behind a tree, and I 
 let the chief throw his spear, thinking I could parry 
 it off with my rifle, and then shoot the man who had 
 the musket. The chief again poised his spear and 
 darted it; my ignorance of the force of these missiles 
 very nearly cost me my life. It came like a flash of 
 lightning, struck me full in the face, tearing my upper 
 lip into three pieces, loosening my upper fore teeth, 
 and glancing out of my mouth, passed through the' 
 left arm of Mr. U. I shot him through the head, and 
 attempted to reload my rifle, when a man ran up be- 
 hind me and knocked me senseless, for the moment, 
 into the water. This wet all my powder, and ren- 
 dered my rifle useless for further service ; falling on 
 my face the water instantly brought me to my senses 
 again. A few moments after Mr. Henry was knocked 
 down by a blow from a club on the back of the head. 
 I saw him struggling under water, and tried to get to 
 him, but had not fought half way, when I was 
 knocked down again, and as I rose, I received another 
 heavy blow between the shoulders. Looking round, 
 I saw Mr. Underwood lying on his left side, resting 
 on his left hand in the water, and holding up his right 
 to parry off the blows of a club, which a gigantic sav- 
 age was flourishing over his head; the blood was 
 streaming from his mouth, nose and ears. I sprang 
 up behind the Indian and caught him by the throat, 
 and plunged my knife three times into his bosom. I 
 then stooped down and tried to lift Mr. Underwood out 
 of the water. He spoke once distinctly : — “ Tell her , 57 
 said he, u that I loved her until the last moment. 5 ’ 
 This was said, probably, in reference to his wife, to 
 whom he had been married but two weeks before sail- 
 
156 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ing. Soon after this, his eyes flashed, and he seemed 
 for a moment to recover himself, — his countenance 
 gleaming in all the fierceness of the war spirit; he 
 tried to speak, but his mouth was so filled with blood 
 that I could not understand what he wished to say. 
 He probably saw the stealthy approach of a savage, 
 who was about to aim a blow at my head, and giving 
 him that keen, piercing look of defiance, in the last 
 agonies of death, he wished to warn me of my dan- 
 ger — for the next moment I experienced a sensation 
 similar to that produced by the report of a cannon 
 near one’s head. I recollect this distinctly, and re- 
 member no more, as I fell senseless into the water. 
 
 How long I remained in that situation I do not 
 know ; hut when my senses did return, the noise and 
 hustle of the fight was over. I do not know when or 
 how I reached the boat, nor did I know anything for 
 several days afterward. On recovering my senses, I 
 learned the following particulars. Soon after, the 
 first cutter opened a fire upon them, and several being 
 killed, they all retreated to the bushes. The boats 
 then pulled in, and took possession of the bodies of 
 Lieut. Underwood, and Wilkes Henry, midshipman ; 
 they had been stripped entirely naked, and dragged 
 some distance on the beach, with the expectation, no 
 doubt, of making a hearty meal from them. 
 
 They clubbed and speared us until they supposed 
 that there could he no life in us. I afterward arose 
 upon my feet — being perfectly delirious — and walked 
 among them, talking, laughing and singing, which 
 convinced them that I was a spirit. In consequence 
 of their superstitious dread of spirits, they offered me 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 157 
 
 no further violence. In this condition I was taken 
 into the boat by Lieut. Alden. 
 
 Since the above was written, I have been favored 
 with an interview with a gentleman who visited the 
 island about nine months afterward. He states that 
 during his stay there he heard the natives singing a 
 song which was composed in consequence of this mel- 
 ancholy encounter. In this they refer to some one as 
 a “ spirit man ” who conducted quite singularly after 
 having been slain. They affirm that they cut off my 
 head, which of itself resumed its former place, and 
 that I went around and gathered up my hands and 
 feet which had been severed from my body, and ad- 
 justed them properly, where they soon became as 
 fixed and permanent as they were previous to their 
 dismemberment, and afterward laughed at them. 
 
 During this time I had been placed in the “ stern 
 sheets ” of the boat, and covered with the American 
 Flag, to protect me from the scorching heat of the 
 vertical sun. My wounds were so numerous and se- 
 vere that no one expected me to survive but a short 
 time. But why I was thus almost miraculously pre- 
 served, is known only to the great Disposer of events. 
 
 They had not proceeded far when the schooner was 
 seen at anchor. When coming so near to the schoon- 
 er that the boat’s ensigns could be seen, they were 
 set at half mast in token of some accident having 
 befallen them. The signal was no sooner perceived 
 from the schooner than she was got underway and 
 stood down to meet them. Capt. Wilkes and Passed 
 Midshipman Eld were on shore at the time, making 
 observations ; and perceiving the schooner underway, 
 and shortly afterwards the boats coming with their 
 14 
 
158 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ensigns at half mast, they immediately struck their 
 tent and pulled for the schooner, where they arrived a 
 little before the boats. When the boats came along- 
 side, Captain Wilkes anxiously inquired what the 
 matter was, and when informed that Lieut. Under- 
 wood and Mid. Wilkes Henry had been murdered, 
 he sprang toward the bodies and fainted. He was 
 taken in this state to the cabin of the schooner, and re- 
 mained in this senseless condition for fifteen minutes, 
 before he was resuscitated. In the mean time, the bo- 
 dies were removed from the boat, and placed on the 
 quarter, under the cover of tarpaulins, while I was 
 taken to the berth deck. By this time Capt. Wilkes 
 recovered a little and returned upon deck, but no 
 sooner saw the bodies, than he fell in the same state 
 from which he had just before recovered. On coming 
 to again, he cried and moaned in the most pitiable 
 and melancholy manner. 
 
 Mr. Henry was his nephew and the only son of a 
 widowed sister, and from whom he had taken him 
 away. The bodies were kept until the following day, 
 during which time Mr. Agate, artist, succeeded in get- 
 ting a very correct likeness of them both for their 
 friends at home. After which they were sewed up 
 in separate hammocks, and taken on shore to a small 
 uninhabited island, where both of them were interred 
 in the same grave. “ They were lovely and pleasant in 
 their lives, and in death they were not divided,” 2d 
 Samuel 1 : 23. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 159 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 The Punishment for the Murders — Funeral Services of the Mur- 
 dered — Departure — Gardener’s Island — Recollections of Home 
 — Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Honolulu — Common Peo- 
 ple. 
 
 u E’en the favored isles. 
 
 So lately Found, although the constant sun 
 Cheers all their seasons with a grateful smile, 
 
 •Can boast but little virtue ; and, inert 
 Through plenty, lose in morals what they gain 
 In manners — victims tt) Insurious ease.” 
 
 Captain Wilkes named this island 11 Henry’s Isi- 
 land” and “ Underwood’s Group.” Three volleys of 
 musketry were then fired over the grave, which closed 
 the scene ; after which they all returned to the schoon- 
 er to premeditate on the means to be adopted for the 
 revenge of their deaths. The plan was arranged in 
 the following manner. The boats were sent to row a 
 guard around the island to prevent the escape of any 
 of the natives, and to stop any from joining them 
 from other islands. 
 
 They eruised all that night, until light the next 
 morning, when three large canoes were seen making 
 for the island. Lieutenant Emmons in the Peacock’s 
 1st cutter, made sail and went in chase of them ; 
 when coming within gun shot, he gave them a broad- 
 side, each canoe in succession, which soon stopped 
 their headway. All the canoes were destroyed and the 
 natives killed, except two, one man and one woman ; 
 the man was taken prisoner, but the woman was al- 
 
160 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 lowed to swim ashore. The same morning the men 
 were landed from the brig Porpoise (she having joined 
 them the day before) the men of the boats and 
 schooner amounting to nearly one hundred. On 
 landing, they were divided in three divisions ; Capt. 
 Ringgold commanded the whole party and led the 1st 
 in person. The 2d division was under Lieut. John- 
 son, and the 3d under Lieut. Maury. After des- 
 troying the plantations of bananas, tarro and yam 
 beds, breaking up their war canoes and literally de- 
 stroying every thing that fell in their way, and hav- 
 ing arrived within sight of their principal towns, the 
 2d and 3d divisions halted, while the division under 
 Captain Ringgold marched forward to reconnoiter the 
 town. On their arrival they found the town much 
 larger than they expected and better fortified, and ap- 
 peared to he strongly defended. The principal chief 
 came out armed with a spear, and drew himself up 
 in all the pride of self consequence, and gave himself 
 a thousand savage ostentatious airs. He challenged 
 our little party to proceed, he was ready for them, 
 and he intended to have a white man for his supper. 
 This consequential savage little dreamed that a rein- 
 forcement of the enemy was so near at hand, and 
 knew but little of the effects and deadly power of the 
 enemy’s weapons, that were so shortly to be brought 
 against them. 
 
 The town was fortified by upright posts sunk in 
 the ground,, and the bottom part walled in with 
 stones ; and between the posts in the top part, spaces 
 were left open, through which to shoot their arrows 
 and throw their clubs. The whole was entrenched 
 around with a ditch eight feet wide and five or six 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 161 
 
 deep, in the bottom of which were an abundance of 
 spears. Behind this fortification they had defied all 
 the combined Fiji armies, and had been many times 
 attacked by their enemies, but had always come off 
 victorious, which circumstance inspired them with 
 much confidence in their own strength and prowess. 
 After the chief had come out and delivered his chal- 
 lenge, he returned behind the fortification and com- 
 menced making vigorous efforts to defend the towii 
 by filling up the interstices that would admit ingress. 
 Capt. Ringgold, seeing the strength and determina- 
 tion of the enemy which he had to contend against, 
 made signals for the two remaining divisions to join 
 him. 
 
 After the force had concentrated, they formed a 
 line, and marched up to the entrenchment in good 
 order, under a heavy shower of arrows. The natives 
 continued to throw out the spears and arrows in great 
 profusion, but with little judgment. Two of our 
 men were slightly wounded, one in the thigh and the 
 other in the leg. The natives labored under a dis- 
 advantage which rendered their breast-work almost 
 useless; they could not throw their spears without 
 exposing the whole upper portion of their bodies, and 
 in such cases almost instantly met their fate from our 
 rifles. Several rockets were thrown in at the onset 
 with the hope of setting fire to their town, but they 
 did not take effect. A volley of musketry was fired 
 at them by each division in succession ; this had good 
 effect, upwards of fifteen falling at each volley. The 
 natives having become more bold, showed themselves 
 in greater numbers above the breastwork, but after 
 this deadly fire they became more intimidated, and 
 14 * 
 
162 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 retreated behind their houses. Rockets were again 
 thrown in, but with no better success than at the 
 former attempt. The contest had been kept up for 
 more than an hour, when the “ Turanga Laib ” 
 principal chief, was killed by a rifle ball, which cir- 
 cumstance struck a panic through them immediately, 
 and what few there were remaining, fled to the back 
 part of the town ; some few made their escape, while 
 many were shot in their retreat. They left their 
 dead and wounded behind, to be consumed in the 
 flames. At this time another rocket was thrown in 
 and lodged upon the top of one of their thatched 
 houses, which soon ignited, and in a short time the 
 whole village was wrapped in flames ; and only a few 
 moments elapsed before the village was burned to the 
 ground. 
 
 After the flames had sufficiently subsided, a party 
 of our men entered, but found nothing save the dead 
 and wounded. The number killed could not be cor- 
 rectly ascertained — as many had been buried in the 
 flames and were consumed — but the number must 
 have been considerably large. The men refreshed 
 themselves with cocoa-nuts and cocoa-nut milk, and 
 rested a few moments, after which they marched over 
 the hills to the back of the island, where there was 
 another small town ; — but on their arrival they found 
 that Captain Wilkes, with his boat’s crew, had burnt 
 it early in the morning. The whole party then em- 
 barked and proceeded to the brig and schooner, where 
 a comfortable night’s repose was very acceptable, fol- 
 lowing as it did, a day of fatigue, slaughter and blood- 
 shed. The next morning a woman came to the 
 beach and hailed the vessel, holding up a pistol and 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 163 
 
 Mr. Underwood’s cap and a rifle. Capt. Wilkes went 
 on shore, taking with him the interpreter, and had 
 some conversation with her. She stated that the few 
 warriors who were left alive on the island had sent 
 her to treat for peace on any terms he might think 
 proper to propose, and in their name she solicited his 
 forgiveness. Captain Wilkes told her to tell them to 
 assemble on the hill at 10 o’clock, and that he would 
 meet them and hear what they had to say. 
 
 Accordingly, at the appointed time Captain Wilkes, 
 taking with him all the men who had been on shore 
 the previous day, embarked in the boats and proceed- 
 ed to the shore. On landing, the men were formed in- 
 to a hollow square, for the purpose of receiving the van- 
 quished warriors. They did not come at the appoint- 
 ed time, however, and Captain Wilkes sent the pris- 
 oner, who had been taken by Mr. Emmons, in the 
 boat, to tell them to come immediately or he would 
 renew hostilities and destroy the remaining portion. 
 In a few moments they were seen moving slowly up 
 the acclivity of the hill, crawling on their hands and 
 knees; when, coming up where our men were sta- 
 tioned, they prostrated themselves at their feet in 
 open submission. Thus were these treacherous sav- 
 ages brought low, and made to know their own 
 weakness. They brought as an offering to Captain 
 Wilkes three girls, from the ages of 12 to 16, as they 
 said, — the handsomest that could be found on the isl- 
 and; these were intended as an offering of peace. 
 This offer, of course, was refused, but the Captain 
 told them he wished to let them know the impropri- 
 ety of their conduct, and that the terms on which he 
 should make peace were, that they should promise 
 
164 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 never to be guilty of another like act. To this the 
 chief of the party replied, that they knew they were 
 placed in the same position with guilty ones, but 
 they assured the captain that none of the party then 
 present was engaged in the murder of the two officers, 
 and all that were, were killed in the fight, or perished 
 in the flames of the town. When they were informed 
 that not one of our men was killed, or seriously in- 
 jured in the fight, they were much surprised, and ex- 
 claimed in a loud voice, “ Curlew, curlew, curlew !” 
 meaning, as I afterwards learnt, that we were all 
 spirits. 
 
 After the treaty was concluded the men were all 
 discharged, and returned to the brig and schooner, 
 where they all remained until the following day, 
 when they returned by the boats to their respective 
 ships. 
 
 Captain Wilkes remained in the schooner with the 
 intention of visiting Somo Somo and Cartab, and 
 from thence to join the ship Yincennes at Muthwater. 
 
 The same boats brought information of the demise 
 of William Smith, seaman, who came to an untimely 
 end in a mysterious manner. 
 
 The officers had been on shore, leaving the vessel 
 in the charge of two seamen, one of whom was 
 Smith. Soon after their departure Smith proposed to 
 go into the cabin and pilfer some of the spirits which 
 the officers had in charge. To this, however, his 
 companion did not consent. When Smith was as- 
 sured that the theft would not be divulged by his 
 shipmate, he went alone and drank a large quantity, 
 by which he was much intoxicated. During the 
 watch on the following night, Smith was unable to 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 165 
 
 attend to the duties assigned him, and was found 
 asleep by one of the officers. He was reproved for 
 this conduct, and while under the influence of the 
 dram, he attacked the officer, when a scuffle ensued, 
 and both fell overboard. The officer recovered him- 
 self and regained the deck, but Smith could not be 
 rescued. 
 
 The foregoing facts were not made known at the 
 time of his decease, and there was an air of mystery 
 connected with his sudden death. I have since ob- 
 tained them from one who was on board at the time 
 of the fatal encounter. I am not aware that any 
 blame can be attached to the officer. 
 
 On the morning of Aug. 2d, the king of Muth water, 
 Tuembooa, sent us some hogs and yarns as a com- 
 pensation for the whole number of flags stolen from 
 the reefs by the natives. At the same time he in- 
 formed Captain Hudson that he had endeavored to 
 recover the flags, but found it utterly impossible ; he 
 expected that they had been destroyed. 
 
 A signal was made, on the morning of the 10th, for 
 all the officers and men that could be spared from 
 each ship, to repair to the Vincennes, to attend the 
 funeral service of Lieut. Underwood and Mid. Wilkes 
 Henry, who were so treacherously murdered by the 
 natives of Malolo. At half past 10 o’clock the service 
 commenced. All was hushed and still ; a death-like 
 silence pervaded the ship throughout, and a deep mel- 
 ancholy seemed apparently visible on the countenan- 
 ces of all, particularly among the officers ; and all, 
 both men and officers, listened with an unusual at- 
 tention to the solemn and impressive service. The 
 chaplain took for his text : — “ Boast not thyself of to- 
 
166 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 morrow, for thou knowest not what a day may bring 
 forth,” Prov. 27 : 1. “It is even as a vapor that ap- 
 peareth for a little time and then vanishes away,” 
 James 4: 14. After he had finished the sermon, he 
 delivered a very flattering eulogium on the lives and 
 character of the two officers. 
 
 In the afternoon a signal was made to get under- 
 way, and proceed to Mali, a distance of about twelve 
 miles. We came to anchor about three miles from 
 the village, which we found deserted and the canoes 
 all hauled up and hid among the bushes. The na- 
 tives were getting very shy of us since the news of 
 the destruction of Soui Laib and Malolo had spread 
 among the islands. 
 
 The land here rises to a moderate height, and the 
 ground presents every where a rich soil. The shore 
 is handsomely variegated with different kinds of 
 shrubbery and plants. At a little distance from the 
 shore may be seen. groves of cocoa-nut trees and bread- 
 fruit, among which the habitations of the natives are 
 tastefully erected, under the wide-spreading branches 
 of the trees. The houses are constructed in the same 
 manner as those of the neighboring islands. In the 
 middle of the village stands conspicuous, a building 
 of a spiral shape, much larger than any of the rest, 
 and handsomely decorated with shells of different 
 kinds and colors. This is their Buri , or spirit house, 
 in which they hold all their public meetings and Can- 
 nibal feasts ; and also entertain strangers, besides per- 
 form their religious ceremonies. We had no commu- 
 nication with the natives of this village, owing to 
 their shyness. 
 
 The formation of the island is a complete mass of 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 167 
 
 coral, with little or no vegetation. Great numbers of 
 birds of the aquatic species were found upon it ; and 
 so tame were they, as to be captured with clubs. 
 After having completed the survey on this island, we 
 hoisted up the boats and made sail, — steering to the 
 southward, for the purpose of trying the dipping 
 needle. 
 
 At meridian, on the 20th of August, we discovered 
 another island, or sand bank. This is claimed as a 
 discovery by Capt. Wilkes, as it is not found on any 
 chart, — and named by him McKean’s Island, after the 
 man who discovered it. 
 
 Our stay at Gardener’s Island was very short, as it 
 was also at several less important islands which we 
 made on our passage to the Sandwich Islands. This 
 fact was interesting to many of us, in consequence of 
 the approach of the expiration of our term of service. 
 Many cherished the fond anticipation that on our ar- 
 rival at Oahee, they should be sent to their loved 
 homes. Home ! there is a magic charm in that word, 
 appreciated only by those who have been long re- 
 moved, far, far from its hallowed associations. And 
 if I mistake not, the young man, — his bosom throb- 
 bing in all the glow of youthful buoyancy and viva- 
 city, cradled on the heaving bosom of the mighty 
 ocean — can respond to ennobling sentiments as its re- 
 membrances pass in review. His bosom beats with a 
 quicker pulsation, as fancy recalls the prayers of a 
 fond, unchanging mother, or the warm affection of a 
 sister. Indeed, I have but little hope of the sailor who 
 loves not the very place that gave him birth, with the 
 sunny recollections of childhood’s home. There is 
 but little hope of reform, when the friends of one’s 
 
168 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 youth are spurned, his home avoided, and the remem- 
 brance of the hallowed scenes of the family altar, 
 where morning and evening a sacred incense arose to 
 high heaven, from a humble group bowed in rever- 
 ence ; when such scenes, I say, are ridiculed, the prob- 
 ability of a return from the paths of vice is extremely 
 precarious. 
 
 At 6 o’clock, A. M., Sept. 20th, we made the Island 
 of Onehow, one of the Sandwich Islands, about ten 
 leagues distant. By the 24th, we had succeeded in 
 beating up to the bar off Honolulu, and came to 
 anchor about 6 o’clock in the morning. We were 
 visited by Mr. Reynolds, P. A. Brinsmaide, Esq., 
 American consul, and several other American resi- 
 dents here. We lay here until the following morning, 
 when a number of boats from the shore, and several 
 from whale ships in the harbor, came out to assist in 
 towing us over the bar, and up to the town, according 
 to a general custom here. By 8 o’clock, we had the 
 ship hauled close into the Consul’s wharf, and safely 
 moored. 
 
 In the afternoon, all hands were called aft under 
 the half deck, when Captain W ilkes informed them 
 that he wished to reenter them for eighteen months 
 longer, and at the same time saying, that it was im- 
 possible to get through with the work sooner. Those 
 who chose to remain were to have three months’ pay 
 and two weeks’ liberty; those who did not, should 
 have only three days’ liberty. Those who reentered 
 were to have one quarter more pay. Yery few seemed 
 willing to make any change in their plans on this oc- 
 casion, but on the following day they commenced put- 
 ting their names down, and taking the liberty. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 169 
 
 The Bay of Honolulu is not more than half a mile 
 long, and a quarter broad, but deep, and perfectly 
 safe. Its western side is lined by marshes and fish 
 ponds of artificial workmanship, stretching north- 
 ward, till they reach a small river at the head of the 
 harbor, by which the congregated waters from the 
 mountains are poured into the sea. The town of 
 Honolulu lies on a point formed by the eastern side of’ 
 this river, and the curvature of the beach, as it sweeps 
 again towards the sea, and presents to the view some 
 tolerably well built houses near the beach. The first 
 is the consul’s, a building of coral and mud, and seve- 
 ral wooden buildings in the same enclosures, used as 
 warehouses; the first is used as a store, and the place 
 of his office. The consul’s residence is in the middle 
 of the village. It is a wooden building of a moderate 
 size, with covered verandas and Venetian blinds. To 
 it is attached a beautiful yard, covered with green 
 grass, and richly variegated with shrubbery, — the 
 whole enclosed with a mud wall. In the same yard 
 is another respectable building, used as an apothecary 
 shop below, and a billiard room above. Immediately 
 behind and around these buildings, are to be seen the 
 thickly crowded and irregularly built huts of mud 
 and straw — the habitations of a population of about 
 five thousand natives ; and beyond, are the beautiful, 
 cultivated valleys of the interior, enclosed by moun- 
 tains of great height and wildness. 
 
 Diamond Hill, as you enter the bay, has a beauti- 
 ful, majestic and romantic appearance ; it is the prin- 
 cipal point on the south side of the island. • It is the 
 crater of an extinguished volcano, the mere shell of a 
 decapitated mountain, whose bowels have been ex- 
 15 
 
170 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 hausted by fire. It is of a circular form, and rises al- 
 most perpendiculaly several hundred feet. Its sides 
 every where look like seared walls, and are fluted 
 and furrowed from top to bottom by the washing of 
 water courses, as if by artificial workmanship. They 
 also are surrounded in many places by a kind of 
 moulding of equally singular formation, and again, 
 by blocks and piles of jagged lava, having in their el- 
 evation, the appearance of the parapets and battle- 
 ments of a dilapidated castle. A more unique object 
 can scarcely be imagined. 
 
 Honolulu is the Kanaka name of the seaport town 
 of the Island of Oahu, and is an excellent and con- 
 venient harbor for ships bound to and from the East 
 Indies round Cape Horn. It affords, also, a conven- 
 ient recruiting station for whalemen while prosecuting 
 the arduous duties of their useful and lucrative busi- 
 ness among the monsters of the great deep, in the 
 boundless expanse of the Pacific. This island is, like 
 all the rest of the group, evidently of volcanic origin. 
 Several craters, now dormant, are in the immediate 
 vicinity of Honolulu. An extensive tract of table land 
 stretches along this side of the island, for several miles 
 in length, and about a mile in width. This tract is 
 cultivated, and produces an abundance of tarro and 
 sweet potatoes. All kinds of melons are growing 
 spontaneously on the high land, back of the plain. 
 Here and there are small groves of cocoa-nut trees. 
 A few hamlets of the thatched houses of the natives 
 are also rising among the herbage, resembling hay- 
 stacks in their appearance, and occasionally the resi- 
 dences of the missionaries are seen situated in the 
 midst of beautiful gardens, and shaded with such trees 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 171 
 
 as are best adapted to shade. Some of the mission- 
 aries cultivate a large tract of land by native labor, 
 which no doubt is of the first importance to them, as 
 they can there learn the art of agriculture, in the 
 knowledge of which there is a very great deficiency 
 among the islanders. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Cook, whose residence is located on 
 the banks of Pearl River, a few miles from its mouth, 
 is one of these farming missionaries, and from what I 
 saw, I should judge he was very much beloved by the 
 natives. 
 
 The banks of Pearl River, about one mile from the 
 sea, is a mass of fossils. Among the collection of 
 shells, are to be found large quantities of oyster shells, 
 like those of our own country, but none of the species 
 are to be found in any part of the group. At what 
 period these oysters grew here, is not known. 
 
 To the mind of the candid traveler, the town of 
 Honolulu exhibits in its appearance much that is in- 
 teresting. One may see a plain delineation of the ef- 
 fects of the missionary labor there. The people in 
 their dwellings, their manners and their dress, are liv- 
 ing epistles of the good effects of missionary labor. 
 Those who have had the longest residence in the 
 town, live on Main Street, in fine, large, framed 
 houses, painted white, many of them with green 
 blinds, enclosed in neat picket fences. The occupants 
 of these buildings dress like Americans or Europeans, 
 and some of them exhibit much polish in their man- 
 ners, and have a very tolerable classical education. 
 This street occupies a place near the harbor. The 
 next street farther back is occupied by those whose 
 residence in town is of more recent date. The build- 
 
172 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ings are thatched, roof and sides, the most of them, — 
 a few have the walls boarded, with roofs thatched. 
 They have glass windows and framed doors; and are 
 enclosed with walls of bricks dried in the sun, and 
 white washed. The women of this class are clad in 
 part with foreign manufacture, and a part in the bark 
 cloth, which they call “ Tappa.” Their garments 
 are made in good form, and they exhibit all the marks 
 of rapid advancement in the scale of civilization and 
 refinement. 
 
 The next street has a perfect representation of the 
 semi-barbarous state, in its buildings and inhabitants. 
 The houses are rudely fashioned, and thatched, en- 
 closed in a palisade of sticks and vines, or of half 
 formed, sun-dried bricks. The males are clad, some 
 of them in trowsers and hat, and no shirt or shoes ; 
 others with shirts and minus the trowsers ; and one I 
 saw with hat and shoes, and without either shirt or 
 pants. The ladies of this class wore a garment of the 
 bark cloth, made like a long bag, with a hole in the 
 bottom, without sleeves. This is drawn over the 
 body until the head is thrust out of the end, and the 
 arms appear from places in the side, left open for that 
 purpose. This garment reaches as low down as the 
 ankles, and they look all the same size from the 
 shoulders to the feet. 
 
 Back of this street, you see a collection of the mud 
 huts that once formed the only habitations of the 
 Sandwich Islanders. The natives of this class come 
 dressed in the garb of the heathen, which is no more 
 than a narrow strip of tappa tied around the loins, 
 and a dirty blanket of the same material, thrown cor- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 173 
 
 ner-wise over the left shoulder, coming up under the 
 right arm, and tied in a large knot on the chest. 
 
 These individuals have just caught the sound of 
 the gospel, and have come to settle near the place 
 where they can enjoy the privilege of hearing and 
 learning the doctrines of the Bible. One of this class 
 exhibited the most ludicrous view of the vanity of 
 pride that I ever witnessed, and I could not well help 
 drawing a lesson from it. He had felt evidently a 
 desire for the finery that those enjoyed who had lived 
 longer in the town, and in his zeal he had made an 
 effort to jump at once from barbarism to refinement, 
 and no doubt, in his own estimation, had made a mas- 
 terly stride towards the accomplishment of his object 
 But his position was convincing every one that saw 
 him, that he would be more happy and comfortable 
 in the condition of the heathen. This individual had 
 upon his left foot the remains of what once had been 
 a shoe. All the outer sole was worn away to the in- 
 step, and the inner sole was dragged along the street, 
 as he stepped, like the tongue of a dog. On his right 
 leg, he had the top of a boot, altogether minus the 
 soles, and the crown of a hat, without top or brim, 
 was drawn on his head, which he could only keep off 
 his neck by crowding into one side a large roll of 
 grass. In this finery he was perambulating the 
 
 streets. He had left his tappa blanket at home, and 
 every one that saw him was laughing at his ridiculous 
 appearance. So it is often with boys. The same 
 spirit that led this man leads many boys. They see 
 others wise, rich and great, and make an effort to 
 jump into just such a condition, over all the labor and 
 study by which the truly wise and great became so 5 
 35 * 
 
174 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 and instead of labor and study, they institute lying 
 and theft, and thus dispossess themselves of good 
 character as the native did his blanket, and appear 
 ten times worse in the estimation of the world than 
 the man who has rested satisfied with his poverty and 
 ignorance. 
 
 On Sabbath day, I saw the natives going in great 
 numbers to the place “ where prayer was wont to be 
 made.” They were neatly dressed, and the most 
 profound seriousness rested on every face ; no noisy 
 mirth was heard among them. The loud laugh that 
 speaks the thoughtless mind was hushed, and silently 
 and solemnly the heathen journeyed to the sanctuary, 
 to hear of the mercy and merits of that Saviour, of 
 whom but a few years since, many of them were en- 
 tirely ignorant. The little girls looked like butterflies 
 in their tappa dresses, which are fancifully stained 
 with bright red, yellow and jet. About thirty from 
 our ship, all man-of-wars-men, followed along to the 
 church, and stood around the doors to see and hear. 
 The missionary who was to officiate that day, was 
 the Rev. Mr. Bingham. He read a hymn in the na- 
 tive language, but when the native choir began to 
 sing, the effect upon our party was electrical. They 
 began to sing the hymn to the tune of old “ Green- 
 ville.” Before the first verse was finished, our party 
 were all seated under the shade of the house, and took 
 off their hats, and many a tar that was insensible to 
 fear in dangers and death, wet the corners of his neck 
 handkerchief with tears, that were called from their 
 fountains by the recollections of childhood, friends and 
 home, which were brought upon their minds in con- 
 nection with that old tune ; and when at length the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 175 
 
 sermon commenced in the native tongue, we started 
 to go away, I saw some with their shoes in their hands, 
 and others on tiptoe, lest they should make a noise 
 and disturb the worshipers. 
 
 In external manners and habits of life, the common 
 people or Kanakas, present a strong contrast to the 
 chiefs; and indeed are wretched people, subject, not 
 only to blindness of heart and mind, but also the most 
 abject poverty. Their condition is as bad, if not 
 worse, than many slaves in the U. S. If the former 
 are an object of interest, the latter should be of a com- 
 passion that should almost border on agony. 
 
 The greatest wealth of which some of the less en- 
 lightened can boast, consists of a mat on which to lie, 
 a few folds of tappa to cover them, one- calabash for 
 water and another for poi , a rude implement or two 
 for the cultivation of their ground, and the instru- 
 ments used in their simple manufactures. Tarro, po- 
 tatoes and suet, with occasionally a fish, constitute 
 their general food ; while all else they raise, or take, 
 and every result of their labor, goes to meet the exorbi- 
 tant taxes levied by the king and his governors, 
 and their own respective chiefs and landlords. The 
 spontaneous production is very scarce, and labor at 
 all seasons of the year is necessary to the support of 
 life. In this respect this group differs widely from 
 the Society and other Islands in the South Pacific 
 Ocean, which we have visited, where eight months 
 in the year, the natives have only to pluck their food, 
 principally breadfruit, from the trees overhanging their 
 habitations. The growth of the breadfruit here is 
 confined to a few districts on one or two islands, and 
 
176 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 where found, yields a very partial supply at any sea- 
 son. 
 
 Tarro , an article which I have frequently mention- 
 ed, is the principal food of the Sandwich Islanders, 
 and to the whole nation, answers the double pur- 
 pose of bread and vegetables. The plant to which 
 it belongs, is the Arum, a root growing in many 
 parts of America, and particularly in the West India 
 Islands ; and sometimes known by the name of the 
 wild indian turnip. Tarro is the Arum Esculentum of 
 the botanist, and is used in many other warm climates 
 as a vegetable. It here occupies the most of the culti- 
 vated ground, especially such as is capable of be- 
 ing overflown by water ; and the planting, irrigation 
 and necessary care of it, form the most laborious part 
 of native farming. The islanders have arrived at 
 great skill in the cultivation of this plant, and perhaps 
 their mode of growing it, considering the general face 
 of the country, scarcely admits of improvement, unless 
 it be in the implements with which they work. The 
 beds in which the tarro stands, are generally square 
 or oblong, of various sizes, from that of a few yards 
 to half of an acre. The natives prepare it for use, by 
 baking it in the only manner practiced among them. 
 This is by digging a hole in the ground, one or two 
 feet deep and five or six in circumference, and placing 
 a layer of stones upon the bottom, upon which wood 
 is placed and a fire kindled ; other stones are laid on 
 the fire, and by the burning of the wood the whole 
 becomes ignited ; those on the top are drawn off, and 
 the tarro, dog, pig, or fish, — closely wrapped in the 
 leaves of the ti , — is laid on the hearth of stones still re- 
 maining on the bottom, and hastily covered with the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 1 77 
 
 rest ; a little water is poured on to create a steam, and 
 the whole is then covered with earth, — by which the 
 heat and steam are kept from escaping — and the article 
 in the umaii , or oven, becomes cooked. The tarro 
 thus baked, is in the next place made into their fa- 
 vorite poi. The process is very simple, though so la- 
 borious as to be performed by the men ; — it is simply 
 by beating the tarro upon a short plank of hard wood, 
 slightly hollowed in the middle, like a tray, with a 
 stone something in the shape of a clumsy pestle, wet- 
 ting it occasionally with water, like dough. It is 
 then put into a calabash, diluted with water and set 
 aside for fermentation. This soon takes place and 
 the pot is fit for use in a day or two, though preferred 
 when four or five days old. 
 
 It is eaten by thrusting the fore finger into the mess 
 and securing as much as will adhere to it in passing 
 it to the mouth. Next to tarro , the sweet potato is 
 the principal article of cultivation. The yam also is 
 grown, but chiefly at the leeward islands. I saw 
 none here. Indian corn has been introduced, but is 
 very little used as an article of diet. Esculent plants, 
 such as cabbages, squashes, water-melons, musk-mel- 
 ons, pumpkins, cucumbers and beans, — the seeds of 
 which have been introduced by the missionaries and 
 foreigners, — are becoming abundant ; they are culti- 
 vated principally for ships, and the table of foreign 
 residents. 
 
 These islands were discovered in the year 1778, 
 by Captain James Cook, of the British navy, and 
 from him, in honor of the Earl of Sandwich, then the 
 first Lord of the Admiralty, received the name by 
 which they are at present designated. The tragical 
 
178 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 event, and lamented death of this celebrated naviga- 
 tor at Hawaii, in the succeeding year, caused their 
 existence to be made known to the civilized world 
 with an excitement of feeling that deeply stamped the 
 event on the public mind. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Visit of a Native Chief — Sentence of death passed upon two Na- 
 tives for the murder of a Female Chief — Departure — Arrival 
 at Hawaii — Expedition — Visit to the Volcano — Mouna Roa. 
 
 u Deep midnight now involves the lurid skies, 
 
 While infant breezes from the shore arise, 
 
 The waning moon, behind a watery shroud, 
 
 Pale glimmered o’er the long-protracted cloud. 
 
 A mighty ring around her silver throne, 
 
 With parting meteors crossed, portentous shone 5 
 This in the troubled sky full oft prevails, — 
 
 Oft deemed a signal for tempestuous gales.” 
 
 On the 27th of Sept., Governor Tekooanoa visited 
 the ship, and was received with military honors. 
 During the day the English, American, and French 
 consuls also visited us, with a portion of the mission 
 and foreign residents. 
 
 In a short time afterward the news of the death of 
 Commodore D. T. Patterson was received, and read 
 to all hands on the quarter deck, and the officers or- 
 dered to wear crape on the left arm for thirty days, in 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 179 
 
 testimony of respect for the deceased. All the Ameri- 
 can vessels in the harbor, as well as the foreign ves- 
 sels and the fort on shore, had their colors at half 
 mast. On the 28th inst. the king of the Sandwich Isl- 
 ands arrived in his yacht from Maui, on which occa- 
 sion the fort fired a salute of 21 guns. On the 29th 
 the Peacock arrived off the bar and came to anchor, 
 she having separated from us several days before our 
 arrival here. 
 
 The sentence of death was published on the 5th, 
 for the murder of a female on the 28th of Sept. The 
 following is the sentence. 
 
 Eia ka pai palu a ua’ bi i palupalu i ia Kaman- 
 awa laua o Lonopuakau, ike mai na Kanaka a pan. 
 E Kamanawa a me Lonopuakau. E like me ka 
 olelo hoo hewa in olua, e maki, i hoo holoin’ ii kula 
 30 o Sepatemabu, ke hai aku rei molama, i ka hora jj 
 Pomaikai olua, ke mihi i oleed i keia marr la, e kal- 
 uin mai ai i ko olua hewn nui e Jesu. 
 
 Kamehameha iii 
 Kekauluohi. 
 
 Honolulu , Okatobu 4 th ) 1840. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 Sentence of the Chiefs , sent in writing to Kamanawa 
 and Lonopuaka , published for the information of 
 all persons. 
 
 To Kamanawa and Lonopuaka. — In accordance with 
 the sentence of death, passed upon you on the 30th 
 Sept., we hereby notify you that the day of your ex- 
 ecution will be the 20th day of the present month, at 
 11 o’clock, A. M. Happy indeed will you be, should 
 you improve the present few days by repentance, that 
 
180 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 your heinous crimes may be forgiven through Jesus 
 Christ. 
 
 Kamehameha iii 
 Kekauluohi. 
 
 Honolulu. Oct. 5th, 1840. 
 
 While here, the Commander in Chief of the Expe- 
 dition and officers paid their respects to his Hawaiian 
 majesty. They were received with due respect, and 
 treated very courteously during their stay. There 
 was some of the “pomp and circumstance” of prince- 
 ly grandeur and consequence, which are usually seen 
 in more enlightened portions of the world. Truly, 
 
 “ Feeble man 
 
 Clothed with a little brief authority, 
 
 Plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven, 
 
 As make the angels weep.” 
 
 On the 20th, the day previously appointed for the 
 execution, at 11 o’clock the chief Kamanawa and the 
 native Lonopuakau, were both hanged by the neck 
 upon the ramparts of the fort, before an immense 
 crowd of spectators. The Rev. Messrs. Armstrong 
 and Smith addressed the throne of grace in their be- 
 half. About eight hundred natives, under arms, were 
 assembled, and passed behind them, two and two, 
 with arms reversed, until the whole was concluded. 
 As they dropped, the colors were half-masted, the bell 
 tolled, and there was a general yell and weeping 
 throughout the village. The chief died a very hard 
 death. 
 
 At 10 o’clock, Dec. 3d, Mr. Alex. Adams, pilot, 
 came on board for the purpose of conducting us out 
 of the harbor, but in consequence of some difficulty 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 181 
 
 with the captain, was ordered ashore. After dispen- 
 sing with the services of the pilot, boats were sent 
 out with signals, to point out the passage, which com- 
 pensated for the sudden ejection of the pilot. We 
 received P. A. Brinsmaide, Esq., American consul, 
 and Dr. J. P. Judd, physician to the mission, who 
 came on board to take passage to Hawaii. 
 
 Our passage out of this dangerous harbor was not 
 only safe but pleasant, nothing of particular impor- 
 tance occurring to mar the harmony of our company, 
 which had become considerably changed, from the 
 fact that many who had been with us from the com- 
 mencement of the expedition, had already embarked 
 for their native shores, and their places had been sup- 
 plied by a corresponding number of natives. A few 
 days brought us in sight of the beautiful Island of 
 Hawaii. We came to an anchor on the 9th, in Hilo 
 Bay. 
 
 Hawaii or Owhyhee is the most southerly island of 
 this group, and on account of its great elevation is 
 generally the first land seen from the ship on ap- 
 proaching the Sandwich Islands. No other spot in 
 the boundless expanse of North and South Pacific 
 exhibits so much of beauty and sublimity, as is dis- 
 played to the traveler in approaching this island. 
 Along the sea- shore in the vicinity of the bay, the 
 hills and valleys, covered with a rich soil, are heavily 
 laden with crops of tarro, sugar, and various tippical 
 fruits ; sweet potatoes grow well, and the arrow root 
 is also an article of export from this island, and gin- 
 ger is the spontaneous production of the soil. Its ori- 
 gin is volcanic. Several craters, now dormant, are 
 found in various parts of the island, some of which 
 16 
 
182 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 are filled up with earth and covered over with a lux- 
 uriant growth of grass and herbage. Cattle, horses 
 and sheep eat and sleep where once the volcano roar- 
 ed and vomited forth its stores of liquid fire, and 
 where, doubtless, now at no great depth beneath them, 
 broad streams of perpetual fire are furiously coursing, 
 flashing, sparkling, madly driven by the power of the 
 gas as it careers along by the guidance of Omnipo- 
 tence, to the safety valves that the God of nature has 
 provided for its escape. 
 
 This bay is large and commodious, sufficiently so 
 for ships of any size to come in and anchor. On ap- 
 proaching the land, we were delighted with the ver- 
 dure, luxuriance and beauty of the landscape, opening 
 to us the village of Hilo and its neighborhood. The 
 land rises gradually from the beach, to a distance of 
 fifteen or twenty miles, bordering upon a heavy wood, 
 encircling Mouna Roa. Though the country is but 
 partially cultivated, this large district has all the 
 appearance of cultivation, and of having been laid 
 out by artificial workmanship, — being an open coun- 
 try, covered with grass, and beautifully studded and 
 sprinkled with clumps and groves and single trees, 
 with here and there a patch of sugar-cane, after the 
 manner of park scenery, with a cottage here and there 
 peeping from the rich foliage. The summits of the 
 two great mountains of Mouna Roa and Mouaked are, 
 most £>f the time, covered with snow, with a belt of 
 clouds hanging below, which gives to the scene, in 
 that direction, quite a gloomy aspect, but it is by no 
 means a sterile country. The channel is formed by a 
 cliff on the right hand side, and on the left a sunken 
 noral reef, the point of which comes within a short 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 183 
 
 distance of the shore, making it necessary for ships to 
 pass so near the breakers as to appear in a. dangerous 
 situation ; seamen, however, think it perfectly safe. 
 The reefs run in a curved direction, to a point in the 
 channel about half a mile to westward, where it joins 
 a romantic little islet, covered with cocoa-nut trees. 
 Near this place our observatory was situated, together 
 with two or three small thatched houses, which were 
 built by the king’s order for our accommodation, some 
 time previous to our arrival. A small channel runs 
 between this and the main land, which is low, and 
 sweeps round to the western cliffs in a beautifully 
 curved sandy beach of about three miles, making the 
 form of the bay that of a flattened horse-shoe. The 
 beach is covered with varied vegetation, and orna- 
 mented by clumps, groves and single trees of lofty 
 cocoa-nut, among which the habitations of the natives 
 are to be seen ; — not in a village, but scattered every 
 where among the plantations, like farm-houses in a 
 thickly settled country. The mission houses are 
 pleasantly situated about three hundred yards from 
 the water’s edge, and in full view from our ship in 
 the middle of the curvature of the beach, forming the 
 head of the bay. They look like so many palaces, 
 when compared with the wigwams of the natives. 
 At a very short distance from the beach, the bread- 
 fruit trees are to be seen in every direction, intersect- 
 ed with the pandanas, tuiui , or candle tree, the hybis- 
 cus and acacia, &c. The tops of these rise gradually 
 one above another, as the country ascends gently to- 
 wards the mountains in the interior, for twenty or 
 thirty miles in the S. E., presenting a delightful forest 
 
184 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 scene, totally different from any thing that I have seen 
 among the islands. 
 
 Soon after our arrival, Capt. Wilkes was busily 
 employed in preparing the instruments, &c., for an 
 expedition to Mouna Roa, the most elevated volcano 
 of this group, and said to be second in height to none 
 in the world, the summit of which, although within 
 the tropics, is glistening with the ice and snow of per- 
 petual winter. One hundred and fifty natives were 
 engaged to carry the instruments and baggage, port- 
 able houses, tents, etc., and six seamen were selected 
 from the crew to accompany the officers appointed to 
 the management of the affair, the commodore in per- 
 son commanding the whole party. Having separated 
 the natives into parties in numbers proportionate to 
 the burden assigned to each, we got them loaded, and 
 we started from the observatory about three o’clock 
 in the afternoon, and it was really interesting to see 
 the whole cavalcade winding along the hills and val- 
 leys on their way to the volcano. 
 
 After following the banks of a river about a mile, 
 we traveled in a south-westerly direction. The soil 
 of this highly interesting island, where we could see it, 
 was fertile, and in many places well cultivated, pro- 
 ducing sugar, tarro, breadfruit, yams, potatoes, and 
 an abundance of bananas, and other tropical fruits. 
 But by far the larger portion of land over which we 
 traveled, was perfectly encrusted with lava, probably 
 the work of other volcanoes now extinct : several cra- 
 ters were to be seen in different parts of the island, one 
 of which was in plain sight from the ship. In many 
 places the lava is covered with a rich soil, which fur- 
 nishes roots to a variety of handsomely flowered 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 185 
 
 shrubbery. We encamped about 6 o’clock, P. M., hav- 
 ing traveled eight miles to a small town called Tuoro, 
 until the moon should rise to give us sufficient light, 
 which was not until midnight, at which time we 
 again resumed our journey, and traveled to another 
 town called Winla; here we again encamped about 
 10 o’clock, A. M. We took breakfast, and again re- 
 sumed our journey. The path began to grow more 
 and more rugged and our progress, of course, slower. 
 At 4 o’clock, P. M., we encamped at a town called 
 Kappaohee. The country here presents a more sterile 
 aspect; the masses of lava were more prominent and 
 were cleft in many places by convulsions of the earth. 
 Some of these chasms were three or four feet in width 
 and of immense depth. 
 
 At 8 o’clock on the morning of the 16th. we left 
 Kappaohee and arrived at the volcano at 2 o’clock, 
 P. M. As we approached the crater, the soil contin- 
 ued to grow more barren, and the only productions 
 are a few trees, called in the native tongue, Ohea and 
 Koa , a gigantic growth of fern and brake. The road, 
 owing to the crumbled state of the lava, was much 
 more even and smooth than I expected to find it. 
 The natives who carried the instruments had become 
 lame, fatigued, and their shoulders much swolen and 
 sore, although the commodore had treated them kind- 
 ly — had never hurried them in the least, and they 
 were well supplied with provisions, 
 
 At 7 P. M., a party of seamen went from the tents 
 to witness the great exhibition of the powers of na- 
 ture’s God. The encampment was about 200 yards 
 from the crater. 
 
 Our object was to get round to that side of the era- 
 *16 
 
186 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ter that commanded a view of the largest fire ; and 
 we had to climb over several precipices of almost per- 
 pendicular masses of scoria. It was a moonless night, 
 and the attempt was made still more dangerous by 
 wide and deep chasms that frequently crossed the 
 path. Some of these were three or four miles in 
 lengthy and as many feet wide, and of immeasur- 
 able depth, and we were enabled to find our way 
 over them only by the light of the fires below. We 
 approached the crater from the south-east, and when 
 seated on the brink of the frightful chasm, nothing 
 can exceed the grandeur and soul-thrilling sublimity 
 of the scene. Here we had a full view of all the fires. 
 I do not expect my pen can give any thing like an ad- 
 equate description of this place, nor do I believe it in 
 the power of any thing finite to do so; on the contrary, 
 the awfully grand and sublime display of the wisdom 
 and goodness, as well as the power of God, is infinite- 
 ly beyond description. 
 
 In order to give my readers a faint description of 
 the scene, they must imagine a chasm eleven miles in 
 circumference, by three in diameter, and over one 
 thousand feet deep. The walls are of solid scoria, 
 and perpendicular with several boiling lakes of liquid 
 fire, the bottom of which is at least a mile in circum- 
 ference ; the stupendous walls of the crater were il- 
 luminated by the strong light of the fire; the gas 
 which rushed up to escape from its confinement in the 
 fiery depths, was throwing up a thousand streams 
 at once into the air seventy-five or one hundred feet, 
 with a monotonous sound as of heavy surf breaking 
 on a rock-bound shore, combined with the hissing, 
 rushing roar of a vast conflagration, while a huge 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 187 
 
 column of smoke, which seemed to he converted into 
 flame by the light of the fire, rising a thousand feet 
 above the crater, and which is seen in a clear night 
 at least fifty miles, added to the imposing effect of the 
 scene, and I have never had my nerves put to such a 
 test, as they were while seated on the brink of this 
 frightful abyss, with my feet hanging over the edge, 
 surveying this magnificent display of Almighty Pow- 
 er. Compared with this, what are the proudest works 
 of art. Man may look on his cities, his catacombs, 
 his machinery, but let the man most famed for wis- 
 dom and power, be seated for ten minutes on the 
 brink of this fiery abyss, and a sense of his nothing- 
 ness will thrill through every part of his little soul. 
 And yet, while almost breathless by the intensity of 
 the feelings awakened by this scene, it dwindled into 
 nothing as I thought of that day fixed by the eternal 
 fiat of Omnipotence, when this whole world, its con- 
 tinents and islands, its oceans and seas, should be ex- 
 hibited to a congregated world in the same state as 
 the fiery gulf below. 
 
 The commodore immediately ordered us away 
 from our fearful proximity to the crater, where in our 
 recklessness we had perched ourselves, and we all sat 
 together for some hours in inexpressible admiration 
 and wonder. The night was dark, and the aspect of 
 the whole scene was more imposing on that account : 
 and while we were sitting there, a new place opened 
 on the side of the crater, opposite to us, and a stream 
 of liquid fire ran down into the bottom of the abyss, 
 winding its way along among the cones and spires of 
 scoria with serpentine course, beautifully marked by its 
 own light, now turning some corner in a narrow 
 
188 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 stream, now widening out into a lake as it filled up 
 some hollow in its bed, until at length it emptied itself 
 into the great sea of fire. It was not until after mid- 
 night that we reached the encampment. 
 
 On the 17th, the natives complained of their fatigue 
 and lameness so much, that Capt. Wilkes concluded 
 to remain at the volcano until the day following. We 
 spent the day in walking about, and going down into 
 the crater. Mr. Budd, Mr. Eld and myself missed 
 our path, and walked so far out of the way, that we 
 did not get back in season to go to the bottom : we 
 were descending into the crater, when we met the 
 commodore and his attendants coming out. One of 
 the natives who attended the commodore could speak 
 a little English tolerably well, and he told Mr. Eld, 
 with his usual quaintness of expression, “ that if he 
 went to the bottom it would be dark before he would 
 get out, and that he would fall into some of the holes 
 and kill his neck.” 
 
 This evening I was again at the place that com- 
 manded a full view of the largest fire, and it evident- 
 ly seemed- much larger than it was the night before, 
 and we saw that it was rapidly increasing ; several 
 new places had opened about the bottom, and the 
 noise was much louder. The lava was spouting 
 very high at the northern end of the molten sea, and 
 a rapid current was flowing to the southward and 
 westward. The commodore, Mr. Brinsmaide, Dr. 
 Judd, Mr. Budd, and Mr. Eld joined the party of sea- 
 men about 8 o’clock, and it was the opinion of us all, 
 that in a few days the whole bottom of this vast cra- 
 ter would be one sea of liquid fire. 
 
 Next morning early we struck our tents, and, as 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 189 
 
 soon as possible, resumed our journey towards the 
 summit of Mouna Roa. The base of this moirntain 
 is about twelve miles from the volcano in a direct line, 
 but to follow the path the distance is much greater. 
 The road during this day was much more rugged and 
 uncomfortable, leading over an extensive bed of rough 
 lava. A few dwarfish trees and shrubs, for miles, 
 were the only productions to be met with. After pass- 
 ing this we passed over some uneven prairie land, and 
 encamped about 3 P. M. on the summit of a lofty hill. 
 The natives came up to us one after another, and as 
 they arrived, immediately set to work building their 
 huts for the night, and in two hours we had an en- 
 campment of seven tents and forty-five huts. The 
 natives displayed more ingenuity and celerity in the 
 art of hut building than I have seen among them in 
 any other way. Each hut had a large fire before it, 
 and when the night set in, the scene was highly inter- 
 esting; the huts were built in a circle around the 
 tents, and the whole encampment made quite an im- 
 posing village. Our elevation was 4500 feet above 
 the level of the sea. 
 
 The next morning, Dec. 19th, we resumed our jour- 
 ney and traveled about eight miles, and again en- 
 camped on the side of the mountain. The lava here 
 had a much more ancient appearance, the shrubbery 
 and herbage more sickly and sallow. Elevation 6000 
 feet. Therometer 48 degrees, Fahrenheit. 
 
 This part of the country is dry, and persons travel- 
 ing here are often obliged to go several days without 
 water. The whole of this vast mountain is perfora- 
 ted with caves, so numerous, indeed, that we visited 
 five in one day, some of them of unknown extent. 
 
190 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 One of them was carved and finished in a style that 
 bore close resemblance to the works of art. A pro- 
 jection ran along on both sides, elegantly mould- 
 ed, about three feet high, and perfectly smooth, — 
 making a splendid seat nearly 300 feet in length. 
 The floor was smooth, and the whole cave bore evi- 
 dent marks of having been, at some period, a subter- 
 raneous passage, leading from some crater, through 
 which had flowed a stream of boiling lava, and prob- 
 ably it is through such passages as this that the lava 
 has flowed, which has so completely inundated the 
 whole island. 
 
 Having followed the passage nearly half a mile, we 
 came to an opening in the floor, and getting down on 
 the fragments of lava which lay underneath, we found 
 a second passage as spacious as the first, running par- 
 allel with it; having followed this second passage 
 about half a mile, we came to another opening, and 
 looking down, we saw another passage leading under 
 this. How far it extended we did not ascertain. 
 Being disappointed in our search for water, we con- 
 cluded to go no further ; the water was dripping 
 from the roof in a thousand places, but the floor was 
 too porous to retain it. The roof was beautifully 
 coated with stalactite, resembling stucco work. This 
 is formed, probably, from particles of lime and salt, 
 which are dissolved by the water that passes through 
 this cave, and is admitted through the overhanging 
 arch ; — these are pendant like icicles, and some of 
 them acquire the length of three or four feet. 
 
 In two of the caves we visited, we found water; 
 being thoroughly filtered by its passage through the 
 lava, it was as clear as a crystal, extremely cold, and 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 191 
 
 very sweet. In a distant part of one of the caves we 
 found the bones of some birds, and the remains of a 
 human skeleton. The bones were much decayed, 
 but enough of them remained to show that they be- 
 longed to the human species. 
 
 On Monday morning, Dec. 21st, we again struck 
 our tents and resumed our journey up the mountain. 
 The road was precipitous, and our ascent tiresome ; 
 the whole mountain seemed to be a mass of lava'. 
 There are some craters on the summit, and it is prob- 
 able that the whole of this vast mountain has been 
 ejected from them and their outlets. 
 
 From the appearance of this island, so far as I am 
 able to judge, it might with great propriety be termed 
 11 Terra del Fuego,” which signifies, in English, the 
 land of fire. Judging from the quantities of lava now 
 on the surface, and the quantities that must have run 
 into the sea, there must he an immense vacuum under 
 this island. Nothing here relieves the dreary grey of 
 the lava, excepting here and there a small tuft of 
 stunted shrubbery, which takes root in the crevices of 
 the rock. I saw no birds or animals at this place, or 
 any thing living, except what belonged to the party. 
 The air is sensibly colder; the clouds were then 
 rolling below us, and their appearance was often 
 grand and majestic. We were now about fifty miles 
 inland, but from this height we can see the surf of the 
 ocean breaking on the beach. Our elevation on the 
 evening of the 21st, was 9000 feet. Thermometer 40 
 deg. At sunrise on the morning of the 22d, the 
 weather was much colder. Thermometer 37 deg. 
 The natives were mostly naked, and the cold seemed 
 to frighten them. Dr. Judd, Serg. Stearns, and one 
 
192 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 of the seamen went on, when the party encamped, to 
 the summit, and returned at sunset, bringing some ice 
 and snow with them. When the natives saw it, they 
 all shouted u oury miti ,” — meaning, not good. 
 
 About 9 A. M., the commodore and some of the 
 seamen, together with as many of the natives as were 
 able to go up, started for the summit, with some of 
 the instruments, the portable house, and some of the 
 tents. Lieut. Budd, Dr. Pickering, Mr. Eld and three 
 seamen, remained at the encampment, to send on the 
 natives as they arrived with such instruments as were 
 wanted. At 4 P. M., some of the officers returned 
 from the summit, and brought information that one 
 of the seamen had been taken sick, and was lying on 
 the rocks, unable to get up. No compensation could 
 induce the natives to venture in search of him. I 
 started alone, just at dark, hut could not find him. 
 The night shut in dark and rainy, and our tent was 
 but a poor protection from the inclemency of the 
 weather. A number of natives were comfortably 
 lodged in the tents, but no inducement could get them 
 out, to assist in getting some articles which we wanted 
 to make our shelter better. 
 
 Dr. Judd, Mr. Eld and Dr. Pickering, went up the 
 mountain on the 23d, accompanied by as many na- 
 tives as could be hired to ascend. Mr. Eld went in 
 search of William Longley, the man who was sick, 
 and returned with information at sunset, that he was 
 better, and had gone up the mountain. At 10 o’clock, 
 fifty seamen arrived from the ship, under Lieut. Al- 
 den, and remained with us until the next morning. 
 
 During the 24th, the weather was in unison with 
 the face of the country. The clouds, which had been 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 193 
 
 collecting round the foot of the mountain, rose towards 
 noon, and enveloped us in a misty veil, with occasion- 
 ally drizzling showers of rain. The tents were insuf- 
 ficient to hold us all, and a party of the seamen re- 
 paired to an adjacent cave, and slept very comforta- 
 bly. About 7 o’clock, a few natives came down from 
 the summit to the cave, and informed us that Longley 
 had not been found, and that general fears were en- 
 tertained that he was dead; the night being exces- 
 sively dark and foggy, further search was deferred 
 until the next morning. At 7 A. M., the seamen were 
 sent to the summit with the large pendulum, and jour- 
 neyman clocks, and other instruments. At 11 o’clock, 
 thirty-four natives arrived from the ship with provis- 
 ions for the men and officers. At 3 o’clock, I was 
 suddenly seized with a violent pain in the head ; sev- 
 eral others of the seamen, and some of the officers, 
 were affected in the same way. It was attributed to 
 the rarity of the air at so great an elevation. 
 
 At sunset the scouts returned, but brought no intel- 
 ligence of Longley. All the seamen were employed 
 in carrying up the instruments, — most of the natives 
 having become discouraged at an elevation of 9000 
 feet, and returned home. Their clothing consisted of 
 a narrow strip of tappa tied round the loins, and a 
 scanty blanket of the same material over the shoul- 
 ders — leaving the body, arms and legs, entirely naked 
 and exposed. Such apparel could not be comfortable 
 where the thermometer falls to 37 deg., particularly 
 to those, who, from childhood, had been accustomed 
 to a temperature of from 70 to 80 degrees. 
 
 At sunset, one of the residents returned from the 
 summit, and informed us that Longley had been found, 
 17 
 
194 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 crawling on his hands and knees over the rocks. He 
 said he had been lying near the track, and that he 
 had frequently seen people passing and repassing close 
 to him, but that he was unable to travel, and conse- 
 quently had been exposed to the cold and rain for 
 three days and nights. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII, 
 
 Ascent of the Mountain continued — The Lava — Fatigue and 
 Exposure of the Journey — Descent into the Crater — The Ba- 
 sin — Severity of the Weather — Return to the Ship — Visit of 
 the Chief. 
 
 “ Pleasing were many scenes, but most to me, 
 
 The solitude of vast extent, untouched 
 
 By the hand of art, where nature sowed herself, 
 
 And reaped her crops ; — whose garments were the clouds. 
 
 Whose organ-choir, the voice of many waters j 
 Whose banquets, morning dews j whose lovers, flowers 5 
 Whose orators, the thunderbolts of God} 
 
 Whose palaces, the everlasting hills ; 
 
 Whose' ceiling, heaven's unfathomable blue ; 
 
 And from whose rocky turrets, battled high, 
 
 Prospects immense spread out on all sides around. 
 
 Lost now between the welkin and the main, 
 
 Now walled with the hills that slept above the storm/" 
 
 The road above our encampment grew more pre- 
 cipitous and uneven, and as we passed up the moun- 
 tain, the weather grew rapidly colder. We stopped at 
 Longley’s tent, and found him slowly improving; af- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 195 
 
 terward we proceeded to the middle station, under 
 Lieut. Alderi. From here we went to the last en- 
 campment of the seamen, visiting on our way a spa- 
 cious cave, containing a large pond of water. This 
 pond was frozen over, the ice of which was two or 
 three feet thick, while large icicles were hanging from 
 the roof. It was here that we first discovered snow : 
 it had drifted into the crevices of the lava, giving it a 
 peculiar aspect of fleecy whiteness. 
 
 The more prominent parts of the lava were bare. 
 When we reached the last encampment of the seamen, 
 the weather and mountains were alike wintry and 
 dreary ; the black masses of lava were contrasted 
 with the drifts of snow, and a strong, piercing wind 
 from the westward, sweeping along the sides of the 
 mountain, howled among the spires and cones of lava, 
 like Boreas among the shorn branches of a forest in a 
 North American winter. In many places the lava 
 was piled in detached masses, bearing an exact re- 
 semblance to the cinders from a blacksmith’s forge. 
 Sometimes these fields of climpers , as they are called, 
 are bare to the extent of several miles. When we 
 left the encampment of the seamen, we were obliged 
 to travel over a field of them, at least a mile and a quar- 
 ter in extent. We arrived at head quarters about 3 
 o’clock, P. M., when the wind was so strong that we 
 all commenced building a strong wall as high as we 
 could reach, with these climpers, to protect the tents 
 from the force of the wind. The commodore and 
 Mr. Eld worked with us, and as hard as the best of 
 us. The markee of the commodore was pitched with- 
 in thirty yards of the largest crater, on the summit. 
 This crater was then dormant; no fire was visible 
 
196 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 about it, but through several fissures in and about it, 
 there were constantly emitted streams of sulphurous 
 smoke and hot ashes, a positive proof of the fiery state 
 of the regions below, sooner or later to burst forth in 
 eruptions from this crater. It is nine miles in circum- 
 ference, by three in diameter, and about 1000 feet 
 deep. The bottom is rough and black ; the sloping 
 sides, nearly to the bottom, are covered with snow. 
 At night, one of the tents made of new cotton canvas, 
 was rent several feet by the force of the tempest above, 
 notwithstanding the protection of the wall. It was 
 not a steady breeze, but would one minute blew a liv- 
 ing gale, and the next a perfect calm ensued. 
 
 At sunrise, on the morning of the 29th, I left head- 
 quarters and returned to the lower station, under 
 Lieut. Budd, at which time Longley was ordered to 
 be brought down to our encampment. In consequence 
 of the peculiar state of the weather, the sudden transi- 
 tion from a mild climate to that of great severity, to- 
 gether with our extraordinary fatigue and exposure, 
 there was considerable sickness among our number. 
 One after another had fallen victims, and the sick list 
 was presenting a fearful aspect. We had found the 
 natives of little service to us, after reaching that part 
 of the mountain where the cold was sensibly in- 
 creased. Our labors had necessarily become very ar- 
 duous. 
 
 The ascent, owing to the rough surface of the lava, 
 was certain destruction to shoe leather. We often 
 wore out one pair of shoes per week ; in consequence 
 of this, several of the seamen, being entirely destitute 
 of shoes, were ordered by the commodore to remain 
 until shoes should arrive from the ship. Ninety-five 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 197 
 
 natives arrived on the 30th, from the ship, with pro- 
 visions. On the same day, orders came down from 
 the commodore, to break up the middle station. 
 Lieut. Alden, who had command there, was ordered 
 to the lower station, and Lieut. Budd of the latter, 
 was ordered to the summit. We immediately began 
 to move the provisions from the lower station up to 
 the summit, with the stores which were in the posses- 
 sion of Mr. Budd, who remained at the middle station 
 until the next morning. Our elevation was 11,500 
 feet at this time. 
 
 We struck the tents at the middle station, and re- 
 moved them to the summit on the following day. 
 The instruments were then taken up, and the day 
 was passed in setting them up, and pitching our tents. 
 We had then reached an elevation of 13,000 feet. 
 Here the weather was excessively cold, yet there was 
 a clear and invigorating atmosphere. We were forci- 
 bly reminded of the propriety of making immediate 
 improvements around our tents, preparatory to an ex- 
 posure to the rigors of the wintry weather, and chill- 
 ing blasts of our elevated position. 
 
 At 9 o’clock, A. M., two seamen went down into the 
 crater, and at half past 11, two more of us followed 
 them. The path down leads over beds of climpers, 
 and the innumerable wide and deep gaps told most 
 plainly the violent convulsions of the earth, while in 
 the act of emitting from its bosom its stores of liquid 
 fire. After descending the first precipice, of a height 
 little less than two hundred feet, we traveled over an 
 extensive bed of lava, composed of beautiful colors, 
 and in every shape that the imagination can conjec- 
 ture ; — sometimes like the ruffled bosom of the oce,an, 
 17* 
 
198 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 sometimes rising in cones, and at other times piled up 
 in rugged and uneven masses, but every where rent 
 by wide and deep gaps. We traveled about two 
 miles, when we approached the brink of the crater at 
 the south-west corner. The descent was extremely 
 dangerous on this side ; the hank was sloping, but 
 very steep, and composed of loose masses of broken 
 lava, in color resembling the granite of Massachusetts. 
 The height of this part above the bottom of the crater, 
 was at least eight hundred feet, and gave some idea 
 of the danger of the ascent. I suppose that in de- 
 scending this eight hundred feet, the base would not 
 exceed two hundred feet from a perpendicular. To 
 start one of these loose stones would have been in- 
 evitable destruction to the adventurer, but we had 
 started to go to the bottom, and we did not intend to 
 relinquish our plan. We began the descent, and in 
 half an hour were safely landed at the bottom of the 
 crater. As we descended, the experiment was made 
 still more dangerous by patches of snow that covered 
 many chasms, and by shelving over the larger masses 
 of lava, would have deceived the traveler to his inevi- 
 table destruction, but for our constant and extreme 
 caution. 
 
 Having accomplished about two thirds of the de- 
 scent, we came upon a fissure in the bank, from which 
 a column of hot steam was constantly emitted ; the 
 snow around this was discolored as it fell by the heat 
 of the steam, and under its protection a beautiful crop 
 of green herbs and lovely flowers was growing, sin- 
 gularly contrasted with snow and the grey appear- 
 ance of the rocks around it. About 150 feet below 
 this little plat of verdure, we came upon a small 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 199 
 
 round hole about three inches in diameter, from 
 which issued a strong current of hot air without 
 steam, but bringing with it a large quantity of hot 
 ashes. The fire had burst from the sides of the cra- 
 ter, within two hundred yards of the top, during the 
 last eruption, and poured its floods of liquid fire into 
 the crater, overleaping in its descent, a precipice of at 
 least 200 feet perpendicular, into a basin of about one. 
 acre in extent. When the basin filled, it flowed down 
 into the bottom of the crater. The lava in this basin 
 was a beautiful shining olive color, but it was brittle, 
 and in walking over a heap of charcoal when we 
 reached the bottom, the scene was awfully grand and 
 majestic. From the surface, the bottom looked even 
 and smooth, but when we stood on the bottom noth- 
 ing could exceed the wildness and sublimity of the 
 scene, and we saw a good illustration of the awful 
 power of the subterraneous fires. Rocks weighing 
 5000 or 6000 tons were tossed one on the other fifty 
 or sixty feet, with apparently the same ease that a 
 pettish child would toss its toys about. The bottom, 
 like the surface, was full of fissures and chasms, from 
 which the steam was rushing with a hissing sound, 
 like a huge engine letting off its steam, and which, to 
 men in our situation, was not altogether pleasing. 
 
 We spent about an hour in collecting specimens of 
 different colored lava. When we were coming out 
 I trod on a piece of lava, which at first sounded hol- 
 low, then crushed beneath my weight ; on removing 
 some of the pieces. I found there was a large space 
 filled with glauber salts and sulphur. These drugs 
 abound in great quantities in these craters. At half 
 past 4 o’clock we reached the encampment. 
 
200 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 On the 4th of Jan. the weather was colder than it 
 had been previously ; the thermometer had fallen to 
 18 degrees. We hastened our observations as much 
 as circumstances would permit, so that our stay might 
 not be unnecessarily protracted. The elevation of 
 this mountain has long been the subject of dispute ; 
 the English admeasurements run from 13 to 17000 
 feet, — by ours the height is established at something 
 over 13,000 above the level of the sea. 
 
 There were indications of a change in the weather; 
 it became rather thick and hazy, while the severity 
 of the cold had somewhat diminished. Another cra- 
 ter was found which was in a south-westerly direc- 
 tion from the principal one. Preparations were im- 
 mediately made for its measurement, but from the 
 unfavorableness of the weather our operations were 
 considerably retarded. We had an occasional fall of 
 sleet, and a slight snow storm. 
 
 A party of seamen came up from the lower station 
 with provisions, wood and fruit. The weather being 
 too cold for the pendulum, the commodore ordered 
 the pendulum house thatched with long grass from 
 the prairie. This house had a heavy “fearnaught” 
 cover over it, and a tent of best cotton canvas over 
 that; the thatching was to go between the “fear- 
 naught 57 and the house. 
 
 It is impossible to place a sailor in a situation that 
 will deprive him of his mirth and jolity ; exposed as 
 he is to the most sudden extremes of climate, yet no 
 heat can scorch, or cold congeal the ardor of his tem- 
 perament; he meets with every kind of danger with 
 the utmost coolness. I have seen the orders of Com- 
 modore Wilkes while in the greatest emergency, amid 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 201 
 
 ice and snow of the Antarctic, obeyed with the same 
 cheerful alacrity as if the ship, at that time, had been 
 lying becalmed within the tropics. Nor is it on the 
 ocean alone that the sailor can he useful; here at 
 Owhyhee, where the men who had been all their lives 
 on shore, at an elevation of 9000 feet, the seamen 
 came up the mountain, “fisted” the instruments — as 
 “jack” has it — and “walked” them up to the sum-* 
 mit, laughing, singing and joking each other with as 
 much contempt of the toil as if the whole band had 
 been sent on a party of pleasure; and I think that 
 very few of our American farmers would take these 
 rugged climpers and lay more uniform or more per- 
 manent walls than those which the seamen built 
 round the encampment on the summit of Mouna Roa. 
 
 The whole encampment was covered with snow on 
 the morning of the 8th. After sunrise, however, be- 
 ing quite clear and pleasant, this soon disappeared, 
 and we were able to continue our observations. At 
 night the weather became more unfavorable ; it was 
 wintry, dark and tempestuous, while a strong wind 
 blew from the south-west. During this time, our 
 house had blown down and the snow was falling 
 rapidly. The morning of the 9th the sun arose clear 
 and bright ; the wind had died away and the clouds 
 looked like a vast field of wool, for below us every 
 thing was tranquil and pleasant. Some of the tents 
 were injured during the night, and a barometer and 
 several thermometers were destroyed by the force of 
 the tempest. 
 
 During our stay upon this lofty and desolate 
 mountain, we were exposed to many hardships, and 
 were subject to frequent and sudden changes of tern- 
 
202 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 perature. The winds were cold and boisterous, often 
 tempestuous. The pelting storms of mingled snow 
 and sleet rendered our situation exceedingly unpleas- 
 ant. The snow was carried high in the air by the 
 furious blasts which howled among those bleak, 
 craggy peaks and frightful chasms, giving to the 
 scenery a gloom and dreariness which cannot be easi- 
 ly appreciated. Our tents were fluttering in the strong 
 winds, and our instrument houses were scarcely re- 
 paired ere they were rudely scattered among the rocks 
 and fissures of the summit. 
 
 Aside from the toils and dangers of our situation, 
 some of its features were somewhat ludicrous. The 
 breeze was u cutting fantastic capers’ 7 with us, and 
 fragments of our houses were hurled furiously into 
 the air, falling far down the rough and romantic sides 
 of the mountain. Several acres were literally be- 
 sprinkled with them, while the “ star spangled ban- 
 ner ” was proudly waving far above this scene of des- 
 olation, on the brink of the crater. 
 
 As soon as the necessary survey was completed, we 
 made preparations to break up the encampment, and 
 return to a more congenial climate. Accordingly, the 
 instruments were packed, and the remnant of our 
 tents, houses and furniture, was collected and carried 
 down by the natives and seamen. 
 
 When the last of the seamen got outside of the 
 wall, Mr. Budd gave orders to “ stand by” the colors; 
 we then gave three cheers, which were echoed back 
 by the crater, and from the walls of the encampment. 
 With the last cheer, one of our number raised the 
 flag staff, and returned our salute ; we gave him the 
 answering cheer, which he received with a grateful 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 203 
 
 flourish of the colors, and then bore the starry stand- 
 ard of Columbia from Pendulum Peak, and probably 
 from the greatest elevation over which it had ever 
 waved. At half past 3 o’clock, we had reached the 
 lower station under Lieut. Alden, which had formerly 
 been the station of Mr. Budd, — ten miles from the 
 summit. At 8 o’clock on the morning of the 17th of 
 January, we left Mr. Alden’s tent, and at sunset 
 reached the volcano of Keluare, having traveled over 
 a serpentine and rugged road of at least thirty miles. 
 This distance, to a landsman on a good road, would 
 not be hard, but let a party of landsmen be accus- 
 tomed to the narrow limits of a ship’s decks for two 
 or three years, and then let them take forty or forty- 
 five pounds on their shoulders and attempt to walk 
 over these climpers for thirty miles in eight hours, and 
 I am sure, unless they possessed the enterprise and 
 perseverance of the sailor, they would not accomplish 
 half the distance. 
 
 The weather continued cool, and our accommoda- 
 tions were still insufficient to protect us from the se- 
 verity of the season. The natives were unable to 
 descend at an equal rate with the seamen, in conse- 
 quence of which our tents did not all arrive in season 
 for the night. Some of our number took shelter Avith 
 the natives, in huts previously constructed. 
 
 On the morning of the 18th, the wind was strong 
 from the northward, and while cooking breakfast one 
 of the huts caught fire, and for a few moments threat- 
 ened the destruction of the whole encampment. It 
 was really interesting to see the manoeuvres of the 
 seamen at that moment; some were darting through 
 the flames, rescuing the property of their shipmates ; — 
 
204 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 some stationed themselves between the huts and the 
 commodore’s tent, ready to tear down the huts in 
 case the fire could not be extinguished before it reach- 
 ed that point, and others tore down the burning 
 building, and stopped the progress of the flames. The 
 fire was soon extinguished and but little damage was 
 done. 
 
 The commodore, Mr. Budd and Mr. Eld, with a 
 party of seamen, went down into the crater to exam- 
 ine the largest fire. Mr. Budd, with six seamen, went 
 down to the bottom of the crater, where we ventured 
 within ten feet of one of the boiling lakes ; here the 
 surface of the dry lava was so hot that any wood 
 would ignite in a very short time. Dr. Judd, on the 
 preceding day, ventured still nearer, and dipped a fry- 
 ing pan full of the boiling lava, hut the crust on which 
 he stood bent like thin ice, and he was only saved by 
 the prompt assistance of an attending native. 
 
 From this station several parties were sent in ad- 
 vance to the ship. At Kappaohee we overtook a party 
 that had been previously despatched. We made a 
 short tarry at Paoli, situated on the route from Kap- 
 paohee to the ship. 
 
 This town is beautifully situated in a wood ; the 
 clearing may be about 150 or 200 acres in extent, 
 highly fertile, producing sugar cane, tarro, breadfruit 
 and potatoes; all kinds of fruit and ginger are spon- 
 taneous productions of the soil. At night we arrived 
 at Wyakea. This town is the largest on this side of 
 the island; it is built at the head of Byron’s Bay. 
 Next morning we reached the ship. 
 
 In a short time afterward, the remaining part of 
 our company arrived, having followed the track of the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 205 
 
 lava, as it coursed its way from the boiling crater down 
 the sides of the mountain and emptied itself at last 
 into the ocean. Several boats were constantly em- 
 ployed in surveying the harbor, and gleaning necessa- 
 ry information. A partial survey had been made by 
 Lord Byron during the year 1825, while in the Frig- 
 ate Blonde. 
 
 Having completed the survey of the harbor, and 
 made such observations and researches in the island 
 as were thought necessary, we got underway and 
 stood to sea, bound to Lahaina, island of Maui, the 
 residence of the king and royal family. The wind 
 during the day was very light, therefore our progress 
 was slow ; but as the evening shades appeared, envel- 
 oping the surrounding mountains in obscurity, a gen- 
 tle’breeze sprung up, and on the following morning by 
 sunrise, the wild mountains which overhang the dis- 
 trict of Lahaina were in distinct view, and by the aid 
 of a propitious breeze and a favorable current, we ad- 
 vanced rapidly to the anchorage, where we arrived 
 about 2 o’clock. The place is far more beautiful 
 than any we had visited among the islands, and is 
 rendered doubly interesting from the fact that it is. 
 the royal residence, and also the headquarters of the 
 mission. The entire district, stretching nearly three 
 miles along the sea-side, is covered with luxuriant 
 groves, not only of the cocoa-nut, but also of the 
 breadfruit and of the koa, an ornamental tree, resem- 
 bling, at a distance, a large and flourishing full-topped 
 apple tree; — while banana, plantain and sugar-cane 
 are abundant, and extend almost to the beach, on 
 which a fine surf constantly rolls. The view here 
 presented was pure indian in all its features, from the 
 18 
 
206 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 bare and lofty trunks of the cocoa-nut, with their tuft- 
 ed summits, nodding like plumes in the breeze, to the 
 thatching of a rude hut, here and there peeping from 
 the broad leaves of the plantain, and the richness of 
 more lowly growth. 
 
 Lahaina, Maui, March 8th, 1841. This day com- 
 menced with great preparations to receive his Haw- 
 aiian Majesty on his official visit to our ship. Life 
 lines were put on the yards on the preceding day. 
 and the men stationed for manning the yards. 
 There was a great display of epaulettes and gold lace, 
 swords, and cocked hats. His Royal Highness made 
 his appearance at 1 o’clock, and when he entered on 
 board, all were anxious to catch a glimpse of the royal 
 personage. The king’s retinue was not as numerous 
 as it was in former times, but presented a great con- 
 trast in the manners and external appearance of its 
 members. The king was splendidly dressed in full 
 uniform, with cocked hat epaulettes, sword and a 
 gold star on his breast, while the distinguished chief- 
 tains wore rich military uniforms. 
 
 Our marine corps was paraded on the quarter deck, 
 and went through several evolutions of the manual 
 exercise for the amusement of His Royal Highness, 
 and our band, such as it was, played several fine 
 airs. The king’s retinue was composed of fine look- 
 ing men, who conducted themselves with much pro- 
 priety, like well-bred gentlemen. The king was 
 then about twenty-five or six years of age, had a 
 commanding figure, appeared graceful and much at 
 his ease. He was entertained in the cabin by Capt. 
 W ilkes, where a sumptuous dinner had been prepared 
 for the occasion. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 207 
 
 When he made his appearance over the gangway 
 the yards were manned, and again when he left, and 
 at the same time the men on the yards gave him three 
 cheers, which he acknowledged by waving his cocked 
 hat. Before sitting down to dinner, he and his suit 
 were conducted to the different parts of the ship, ac- 
 companied by Captain Wilkes and most of the offi- 
 cers. When taken on the berth deck, it was lighted 
 fore and aft, and the tin ware of the messes was 
 burnished bright, and set out in front of the dispen- 
 sary ; the yeoman’s store-room was fitted up with un- 
 usual splendor and all the officers’ rooms on the berth 
 deck lighted up brilliantly - the whole, no doubt 
 made quite an interesting scene to him. 
 
 He returned on shore at 5 o’clock, P. M., in the 
 captain’s gig. A few days after, he was invited to 
 dine in the ward room, on which occasion he was 
 not dressed in uniform. He was attended by the 
 same noble personages who were with him on his offi- 
 cial visit. It is said that he makes free use of wine 
 and ardent spirits, but on these occasions he drank 
 very sparingly. 
 
 MAUL 
 
 Lahaina, the principal town on the island, and resi- 
 dence of the king and royal family, is considered the 
 most healthy island in the group. Lahaina is quite a 
 respectable looking town for the Sandwich Islands, 
 considering the rude state of barbarism from which 
 they have so lately emerged. It is on a semi-circle, 
 covering a handsome plain, which recedes to some 
 distance, where the land rises abruptly and breaks 
 into gulleys and broken, romantic peaks. The Roads , 
 
208 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 in which is the only anchorage, I should consider un- 
 safe for vessels to lie at anchor, particularly in the 
 winter season, when the gusts of wind are very vio- 
 lent and frequent ; there is also a strong current be- 
 tween Mauri and Ranai. The bottom is sandy and 
 very deep, and vessels are often liable to drag by the 
 change of the current. Lahaua-Luna may be termed 
 the seat of knowledge among the islands. The high 
 school is a very worthy institution and is well con- 
 ducted. The scholars who have been regularly 
 taught in all the branches here, are smart men, when 
 contrasted with the other natives, and worthy of 
 the nation to which they belong. There were ad- 
 mitted from the first of June to the 1st Jan. 1841, fifty- 
 five — two of whom had completed their studies. The 
 different branches taught, are reading, writing, arith- 
 metic, natural theology, scriptural history, geography 
 and mathematics. 
 
 The building is large and capacious. The spa- 
 cious hall in the second story is used for the chapel ; 
 the third story is the library or lecture room, contain- 
 ing an apparatus to explain natural history, chemis- 
 try, &c. There are fine collections of minerals and 
 curiosities, obtained from different parts of the world, 
 with a tolerably good skeleton, and one of their ancient 
 gods, placed behind the door as you enter the room. 
 
 In one of my subsequent visits on shore, I had the 
 satisfaction of visiting the palace of Kamhameha. I 
 felt much anxiety to see it, simply because it had the 
 name of a palace. I saw four tolerably well finished 
 oil paintings, representing Alexander the Great, field 
 marshal Blucher, Tamehameha ii. and his wife, who 
 died in England. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 209 
 
 We shipped several men out of the fort, who had 
 been confined here for several months to hard labor. 
 This is one of the wise(?) laws enacted by Mr. Rich- 
 ards, the king’s secretary and adviser, and approved 
 by the king. If one half of the stories respecting Mr. 
 Richards be true, and if there is any law to punish 
 men for crimes, it is highly probable that if he had not 
 come to the Sandwich Islands, he might have had an 
 opportunity to serve a portion of his time in the State 
 Prison, or to labor in chains. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV- 
 
 Visit of the Missionaries — Survey of the Harbor — Embarkation — 
 Arrival at the Columbia River — Description — Arrival at Pro- 
 tection Island — Survey — Natives — Admiralty Inlet — Meteor — ■ 
 Observance of the “ 4th ” — Accident. 
 
 ■“ As yet, amid this elemental war 
 That scatters desolation from afar, 
 
 Nor toil, nor hazard, nor distress appear 
 To sink the seamen with unmanly fear. 
 
 Though their firm hearts no pageant honor boasts, 
 
 They scorn the wretch that trembles at his post 5 
 Who from the face of danger strives to turn, 
 
 Indignant from the social hour they spurn. 
 
 No future ills unknown, their souls appal, 
 
 They know no danger, or they scorn it all ! 
 
 A short repose alone their thoughts implore, 
 
 Their harassed powers by slumber to restore.” 
 
 On the 12th of March, we were favored with a 
 visit, which differed essentially from many former 
 18 * 
 
210 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ones, in which the pomp and display of “ crowned 
 heads ” formed some of the more prominent features. 
 Our visitors on this occasion, were the missionaries 
 and their families. We could but observe the con- 
 trast. In one case, there was a gaudy display of glit- 
 tering toys, — indexes of the degree of refinement and 
 taste of the wearers — and in the other, a “ crown of 
 righteousness” was possessed, whose beauty shall 
 never fade away. One governed by force of arms, 
 physical superiority, the other moulded the soul, 
 bringing all into subservience to the “ law of love.” 
 During our stay here, the surveys were commenced 
 as usual. On one of these excursions the Leopard 
 was lost ; the crew were rescued, though they very 
 narrowly escaped a watery grave. These were soon 
 completed, and preparations were made to embark. 
 At 8 o’clock, A. M., on the 16th, we got underway, 
 and directed our course to the Columbia River. The 
 services of Mr. Edwin Butler, an American, had been 
 secured as a pilot, previously to leaving the island. 
 The first few days of our voyage passed off very 
 pleasantly ; the weather was decidedly fine. In a 
 short time, however, it gradually grew cooler, render- 
 ing extra clothing necessary. The only objects to 
 beguile the tedious monotony of the hours, were the 
 blue sky above, and the ocean beneath, through which 
 we were ploughing, and now and then a lonely bird 
 of the aquatic species, flying over our vessel, to let us 
 know we were not alone. Some days after our ein- 
 baikation, all hands were called to muster, and the 
 rules and regulations of the Exploring Expedition 
 ■were read, for the information of those men who 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 211 
 
 shipped at Oahee, and such as probably never heard 
 them before. 
 
 At daylight on the morning of the 28th, we heard 
 the cheerful cry of “ land ho ! ” from the mast head. 
 We had a fine breeze, and every prospect of reaching 
 our intended haven, but 
 
 “ Disappointments lurk in many a prize, 
 
 As bees in honey ; that sting with surprise.” 
 
 At 10 o’clock, we entered a strong tide rip, and soon 
 after came within sight of the Columbia River. The 
 wind was then moderate, but had been blowing very 
 fresh the day previous ; when standing close in we 
 found the bar breaking furiously entirely across it. 
 Capt. Wilkes consulted Mr. Butler, the pilot, who ad- 
 vised him to stand off, for he considered it unsafe at 
 that time to attempt an entrance. 
 
 The river enters the Pacific between two points of 
 land, one on the north called Cape Disappointment, 
 or Cape Hancock, in lat. 46 deg. 18 min. ; the other 
 is called Point Adams, which is seven miles south- 
 east from the former. From each of these points, a 
 sand bar runs into the water, above which the waves 
 of the Pacific, on the one side, and the torrents of the 
 Columbia on the other, meet with terrific violence, 
 producing a most formidable line of breakers. These 
 circumstances render the entrance and departure of 
 vessels hazardous at all seasons, and almost impossi- 
 ble when the winds are high. The depth of water 
 between the bars, is thirty feet at the lowest ; no ves- 
 sel drawing more than fourteen feet, can, however, 
 proceed far up the river, on account of the irregulari- 
 
212 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ties of the channel. The river, like others in North 
 America, is said to abound in fish, particularly in sal- 
 mon, which ascend all its branches, even up to the 
 Blue Mountains, affording the principal means of sub- 
 sistence to all the natives along the coast; many from 
 the interior also repair to this river in the fishing sea- 
 son, for the purpose of procuring their winter’s sup- 
 ply. 
 
 The land about the sea-coast is moderately high, 
 but at a short distance in the interior it is very moun- 
 tainous ; from the appearance of the gigantic trees, 
 however, I am of the opinion that the soil must be 
 good. 
 
 On the following day, April 29th, we squared away 
 for Puget Sound, distant 120 miles north-east from 
 Columbia River. We proceeded on our course with 
 a fine breeze, but had thick weather until 11 o’clock, 
 when we were suddenly arrested by the cry of 
 “ breakers on the lee bow ! ” It was reported to 
 Capt. Wilkes, who lost no time in getting upon deck, 
 at which time all the studding sails were taken in, 
 and the ship hauled “close on a wind;” shortly after, 
 we sounded, and found that we were in five fathoms 
 of water. At this time we passed the points of rocks 
 not more than a stone’s throw distant. Had we con- 
 tinued our course for five minutes longer, we must 
 have been dashed in pieces against the rocks, and as 
 the result of such a circumstance, inevitable death 
 must have been the consequence. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th, the weather was still 
 foggy? so much so indeed, that we could not venture 
 to run in for the land. We saw an abundance of 
 geese and ducks flying in every direction. At 10 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 213 
 
 o’clock, the weather clearing up a little, we made sail 
 and stood in for Puget Sound. At 4 o’clock we 
 passed Cape Flattery and entered the Straits of Juan 
 de Fuca. The shores are composed of low sandy 
 cliffs, overhanging beaches of sand or stones; from 
 them the land ascends gradually to the foot of the 
 mountain, which rises abruptly to a great height with- 
 in a few miles. The country here is thickly wooded, 
 but affords but little variety in its growth, being prin- 
 cipally cedar and spruce, some of which are very 
 lofty. 
 
 During the evening several canoes passed near us 
 with indians in them, who seemed very anxious that 
 we should heave to for them ; several attempted to 
 catch hold of the ship, but were unsuccessful. Their 
 dress consisted of a skin, thrown over the shoulders 
 and fastened round the neck, leaving the lower ex- 
 tremities bare. 
 
 We continued to beat in this sound with a head 
 wind until the 2d of May, when we were favored 
 with a fine wind; we made sail and at 8 o’clock 
 passed Protection Island, and in about an hour after- 
 ward, came to anchor in thirty fathoms of water in 
 the harbor of Port Discovery. This is the only har- 
 bor immediately on the Straits of Juan de Fuca, and 
 is situated near the south-east angle. It is safe for 
 ships of any size ; it runs southward from the straits 
 into the land and is defended from the violence of the 
 waves by Protection Island, which stretches partly 
 across its entrance on the north. Vancouver says in 
 his book, “ when he was engaged in surveying these 
 straits, that he never had occasion to anchor, but 
 
214 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 always hauled close in to the banks and made fast to 
 a tree.” 
 
 Soon after coming to anchor we were visited by a 
 canoe having in it two indians ; one of them came up 
 the gangway and asked, in broken English, if we 
 were from Boston. This led us to believe that the 
 first American vessel trading here, was from that 
 place, as the indians seemed to know of no other place 
 in the United States. They called all of us Bosto- 
 nians, while they called the English King George. 
 
 On the morning of May 3d, at daylight, several 
 boats were sent on surveying duty. The land every 
 where in the neighborhood is moderately high, very 
 broken and thickly covered with wood. The moun- 
 tains in the interior are very high, and present quite 
 a variety in their shape and appearance ; the tops of 
 some are seen above the clouds, which are covered 
 with everlasting snow, and afford a striking contrast 
 to the valleys near the sea, which are covered with 
 verdure, and trees in full bloom. 
 
 We were at this time on our native continent, 
 although more than three thousand miles from the 
 place of our birth, yet I could not resist the sensations 
 kindled by the remembrance of ‘‘dear home;” all the 
 emotions incident to natural attachment and early 
 prejudices played around my heart. 
 
 We had been literally surrounded with canoes all 
 the morning; most of them were loaded with a variety 
 of fish, venison and bears’ meat, all of which they 
 bartered at very moderate prices, in exchange for 
 knives, fishhooks, old clothes and files, the principal 
 articles for which they seemed anxious. They par- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 215 
 
 ticularly valued our files; for one we could purchase 
 a salmon weighing upwards of forty pounds. 
 
 These natives are a meagre, dirty race of savages; 
 they have no fixed habitations, but, like a snail, carry 
 their houses with them, and seldom stop more than 
 two days in a place. They all have their heads 
 flattened by compression in infancy, which disfigures 
 them to such a degree that they look more like mon- 
 sters than human beings. They have small eyes, 
 flat noses and wear their hair long, both men and 
 women. 
 
 Our stay at this place was not of long continuance. 
 At dawn, May 6th, we made necessary preparations, 
 and sailed, beating out of the harbor. After clearing 
 the point which forms the harbor, we changed our 
 course and ran down the coast to the eastward, a 
 distance of about twelve miles from Protection Island, 
 from which point we entered Admiralty Inlet, which 
 penetrates the continent southward from the straits 
 more than ninety miles, terminating near the forty- 
 seventh degree of latitude, in a bay named by Van- 
 couver, Puget Sound. Hood’s canal is a branch of 
 this inlet, nearly opposite which we came to anchor, 
 the wind and tide being against us. 
 
 The country surrounding Admiralty Inlet is beau- 
 tiful, fertile, and in every respect agreeable; and the 
 bay, with its numerous arms stretching into the inte- 
 rior, must offer great advantages for commercial in- 
 tercourse hereafter. The country here is extensively 
 covered with trees of a gigantic growth, and from 
 their appearance, I think some are well adapted to 
 ship and house building. We anchored opposite a 
 piece of table land about two miles in circumference, 
 
216 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 the most beautiful spot I ever beheld. It was per- 
 fectly level, as if made so by artificial workmanship, 
 covered with green grass about two feet high, and 
 variegated with different kinds of shrubbery, and 
 fringed with a variety of vegetation. It affords a 
 delightful prospect, especially in this high latitude, 
 and would make a neat location for a village or city, 
 and probably, at some future period, will become a 
 flourishing settlement. 
 
 We got underway the next day, and commenced 
 beating up the bay for Nasqually, and on the 11th of 
 May, came to anchor off Nasqually, at the head of 
 Puget Sound. Soon after coming to anchor, we were 
 visited by Mr. Anderson, agent for the “ Hudson’s 
 Bay Company,” at this station. Capt. McNeal, 
 commander of the company’s steam boat Beaver ; Mr. 
 Wilson of the American Mission to the Oregon Ter- 
 ritory, and Doct. Richmond, physician to the mission, 
 comprised the whole number of residents here, except 
 some of the half-breed race, and a few Canadians, 
 servants of the “ Hudson’s Bay Company.” 
 
 On the 17th, the expedition of boats under Lieut. 
 Case, left the ship on a surveying cruise. Also an 
 expedition to the interior of Oregon Territory was 
 projected, — composed of the following gentlemen, viz. 
 Lieut. Johnson, Doct. Pickering, Naturalist, Mr. 
 Breckenridge, Horticulturist, Mr. Waldron, and T. A. 
 Stearns, O. M. G. The most satisfactory results 
 were anticipated from these competent gentlemen, in 
 every department of science. On the following day, 
 Capt. Wilkes, accompanied by Mr. Drayton and 
 purser Waldron, left the ship for the Columbia River. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 217 
 
 At ten minutes past 8 o’clock, on the 31st, a me- 
 teor of immense magnitude and brilliancy shot across 
 the heavens in a north-west direction, illuminating 
 the heavens to such an extent that there was a resem- 
 blance to a sheet of fire, till it nearly reached the hor- 
 izon, when it exploded, sending off myriads of corrus- 
 cations in every direction. When it first commenced 
 its flight, it was exceedingly slow in its descent, but 
 as it increased its distance towards the horizon, it in- 
 creased its velocity considerably, until it burst. Many 
 old seamen on board never witnessed a meteor half so 
 large, nor one whose light remained so long visible. 
 From ihe time it was first seen until it entirely disap- 
 peared, was one hour and twenty-jive minutes. 
 
 On our arrival at this place we were expecting 
 to join the Peacock and Schooner, but in this we 
 were disappointed ; they parted from us some time 
 before, and were to be at the Columbia River two 
 months previous to that time. Fears were entertained 
 in reference to their safety. From the importance of 
 this position it was decided to make critical surveys 
 of the harbor and its vicinity. Accordingly, tempo- 
 rary houses were erected for that purpose, and other 
 necessary arrangements made. The carpenter depos- 
 ited a sealed bottle under the corner of one of the 
 houses, containing a piece of paper with the fallow- 
 ing inscription : — 
 
 “ Though far from our homes, yet still in our land 
 True yankee enterprise will ever expand, 
 
 And publish to all each side of the main, 
 
 We triumphed once and can do it again. 
 
 A problem, a problem, oh ! hear great and small, 
 
 The true owners of the country are still on the soil,. 
 
 19 
 
218 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 While Jonathan and John Bull are growling together 
 For land which by right belongs not to either. 
 
 Let philosophers listen, and solve the question 
 Which has troubled the statesmen of each nation, 
 
 By what right the “ Big Bull ” claims sustenance here, 
 While he has plenty of pasturage elsewhere.” 
 
 Lines written by R. P. R, 
 
 Observatory of the U. S. Ship Vincennes, Charles Wilkes, Esq., 
 Commander in Chief of the U. S. S. S. and Exploring Expe- 
 dition, by Amos Chick, of Portland, Maine, Carpenter of the U. 
 S. S. Vincennes , June , 1841. 
 
 Mr. Dyes, assistant to the scientific corps, deposited 
 in the same bottle two pieces of American coin, — one 
 a cent coined in 1817, and the other a dime coined 
 in 1838. The paper was enclosed in parchment 
 and well secured in the bottle. 
 
 On the 12th of June, Thomas Harden, officers’ 
 cook, and John McKean, ship’s cook, having been 
 three days lost in the woods, were found by a white 
 and some indians who were sent in search of them. 
 When found they were so exhausted as not to be able 
 to walk to the ship ; — horses were procured for them. 
 They had eaten nothing since leaving the ship. 
 
 July 4th coming on Sunday, we celebrated the 5th, 
 commencing in the morning with a national salute of 
 twenty-six guns, which were fired at the observatory 
 on shore. Capt. Wilkes gave a dinner and invited the 
 officers to it. An ox was roasted whole for the crew, 
 on a plain about one mile from the ship. At 9 o’clock, 
 every man and officer was ordered on shore, except 
 Mr. Yanderford, who was left in charge of the ship. 
 On landing, the men proceeded up the hill to the ob- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 219 
 
 servatory, where Capt. Wilkes was residing, there to 
 await his orders. At 10 o’clock the procession was 
 formed and marched in order, the starboard watch in 
 advance, the marines in the centre, and the larboard 
 watch bringing up the rear. We proceeded through 
 a narrow strip of wood about half a mile, when we 
 came to the company’s fort; there we halted and 
 formed in front of it, and gave three cheers, which 
 were returned by the people in the fort, and answer- 
 ed by us. The procession was again formed and 
 marched as before, about one mile further, when we 
 came to a deep valley, — crossing which we came to a 
 plain several miles in circumference, in which Doct. 
 Richmond’s house is situated. 
 
 Here was the place intended for the exhibitions of 
 the day ; various kinds of amusements were proposed, 
 in which Capt. Wilkes took an active part. Every 
 thing went on well for a time, and bade fair for a day 
 of recreation and pleasure, but soon an accident oc- 
 curred, which could not but disturb the feelings of all. 
 At 12 o’clock, when firing a salute, Daniel Whitehorn 
 Jr., gunner, while loading one of the guns, it acci- 
 dently discharged, and lacerated his forearm very 
 seriously. All the integuments, from midway of the 
 forearm to the wrist, were blown otf — the carpal ex- 
 tremity of the ulna exposed for about two inches 
 upon the outer face. All the tendons for about three 
 inches from the carpus were much torn. The sur- 
 geon having thoroughly examined the wound, decided 
 that it was his duty to recommend the removal of the 
 limb. At the time the accident happened, the weath- 
 er was quite warm, and tetanus was to be apprehend- 
 ed. All the large blood vessels were either carried 
 
220 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 away entirely, or much injured, and the consequences 
 of an attempt to save the arm were much to he dread- 
 ed. Dr. Richmond, physician to the mission family, 
 was called upon, who agreed in opinion with our sur- 
 geon, that amputation was the only means to insure 
 life. The doctors then stated to the patient their 
 views of the case, and recommended an operation. 
 He declined for the present, and chose to risk an at- 
 tempt to save the limb. 
 
 The amusements proceeded, but not with that spirit 
 with which they were commenced ; a deep melancholy 
 seemed to mark the countenance of many. White- 
 horn was much esteemed by all his shipmates. 
 
 Such events, the sailor is often called upon to wit- 
 ness. Perils and death often surround him. Disease 
 may make a stealthy approach, when far away from 
 the comforts and endearments of home, and the last 
 throes of expiring nature are witnessed by tearful 
 shipmates, and the departed is consigned to his deep, 
 coral bed, unhonored by the respects of sympathizing 
 survivors in the land of his nativity, and the last 
 tokens of affection, by kindred hearts. A boom may 
 strike, a yard break, and a struggling victim is hurled 
 into the foaming waves, to sink beneath its restless 
 waters, with no solacing word of comfort or hope, in 
 the hour of conflict. By the frequent occurrence of 
 such painful incidents, his sympathies are ever awak- 
 ened, and his better nature constantly developed. He 
 almost instinctively is taught to “ Rejoice with those 
 that rejoice, and weep with those that weep.” 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 221 
 
 CHAPTER XY. 
 
 General Remarks on Nasqually, -&c. — Return to Columbia Riv- 
 er — Point Dungeness — Indian Settlement — Natives — San 
 Francisco — Inhabitants, 
 
 “ Ungrateful task I for no asylum traced, 
 
 A passage opened from the watery waste. 
 
 Fate seemed to guard with adamantine mound. 
 
 The path to every friendly port around. 
 
 On deck the watchful helmsman cries aloud, 
 
 4 Secure your lives — grasp every man a shroud U 
 Roused from his trance he mounts with eyes aghast, 
 
 When o’er the ship in undulation vast, 
 
 A giant surge, down rushes from on high, 
 
 And fore and aft, dissevered ruins lie,” 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS AND REMARKS ON NASQUALLY ; 
 
 PUGET SOUND. 
 
 Situated about half a mile from the sound is a fort 
 or trading post, belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Com- 
 pany, composed of upright posts eight or ten feet high, 
 secured with trunnels at top and bottom. At the cor- 
 ner, is a sentry-box or house, large enough to hold 
 fifteen or twenty persons, perforated with holes large 
 enough to admit the muzzle of a musket. 
 
 Within this stockade is a number of wooden houses, 
 serving as dwellings, store-houses, magazines and 
 workshops, and also one or two small buildings occu- 
 pied by the laborers and servants. The nature of the 
 country in this region of the Oregon Territory, will 
 not admit of extensive cultivation, and seems to be 
 best adapted to a pastoral life, especially in the imme-r 
 *19 
 
222 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 diate vicinity of the streams and mountains ; irrigation 
 must be resorted to, if a large population is to be sup- 
 ported in it. This country, which affords little pros- 
 pect for the tiller of the soil, is, perhaps, one of the 
 best in the world for grazing. 
 
 Every where, in this part of the country, the prai- 
 ries open wide, covered with a low grass of a most 
 nutritious kind, which remains good throughout the 
 year. In September there are slight rains, at which 
 time the grass commences a luxuriant growth, and in 
 October and November, there is an abundance of green 
 grass, which remains until the ensuing summer ; about 
 June, it is ripe in the lower plains, and, drying with- 
 out being wet, is like our hay in New England : in 
 this state, it remains until the Autumn rains begin to 
 revive it. 
 
 The Hudson’s Bay Company has here about one 
 thousand sheep, six or eight hundreds of cattle — all of 
 which are in a thriving condition. Wolves are very 
 numerous in this region of the Oregon Territory, and 
 are very destructive to the sheep when they get among 
 them, but the shepherd uses great caution in protect- 
 ing the sheep from the ravages of these ferocious ani- 
 mals. Upwards of one hundred have been killed by 
 them within the last three years. These animals 
 when pressed with hunger, often attack horses, and I 
 was told that seven were eaten by them in a single 
 night, in this immediate neighborhood. Foxes, deer, 
 and bears are common, but not so numerous as they 
 are in Upper California. 
 
 On the evening of the 17th of July, having complet- 
 ed the survey of Puget Sound, and its multifarious 
 arms and bays, and completed the series of observa- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 223 
 
 tions, we got underway and left our anchorage off 
 Nasqually, and commenced beating down the bay for 
 Columbia River. A surveying party was sent over 
 land to meet us at the mouth of the river, composed 
 of the following persons. Passed Midshipman Eld, 
 in charge of the party, passed Midshipman Colvoco- 
 ressis, Mr. Breckenridge, Horticulturist, Simeon A. 
 Stearns, Q. M. S., to assist in the surveys, with two 
 marines and two seamen. At 9 o’clock on the same 
 evening we came to anchor, the wind and tide being 
 against us. On the following morning we got under- 
 way and proceeded on our voyage. 
 
 At 2 o’clock, P. M. of the 22d, we came to anchor 
 off Point Dungeness, in 12 fathoms of water. Imme- 
 diately on coming to anchor, three boats were got 
 ready, and were sent on surveying duty for three 
 days. Here we met with the Brig Porpoise. She 
 had been engaged in surveying this part of the sound, 
 and Hood’s Canal, for two months. 
 
 Another accident happened at this time with pow- 
 der. Samuel Williams, gunner’s mate, was firing a 
 four pounder, for the purpose of measuring a base line 
 by sound ; a spark had remained in the gun after its 
 discharge, which communicated with the horn con- 
 taining about four pounds of powder, while in the act 
 of priming. A terrific explosion followed, but, as if 
 by some miraculous interposition, no very serious in- 
 jury was done. His hands and arms were burned, 
 though not badly, as the cuticle only was destroyed. 
 
 At this anchorage our anchor was scarcely gone, 
 before we were literally surrounded with canoes, 
 bringing salmon, codfish, and venison to sell, which 
 are taken here in great abundance. 
 
224 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 On Point Dungeness, is one of the most remarkable 
 settlements of indians seen any where on the sound. 
 They have a stockade of considerable size, in which 
 they retreat when driven to extremities in time of 
 war. Such a retreat is rendered necessary from the 
 frequency of their wars ; and since the most of them 
 have obtained guns and ammunition, they are very 
 destructive to each belligerent party. Their prisoners 
 taken in war, they do not murder as many savages 
 do, but keep them as slaves, and make them perform 
 all the more laborious work. 
 
 At each corner of this stockade is erected a bust of 
 some of their most distinguished chiefs, roughly 
 carved and constructed of wood ; these are venerated 
 and worshiped by the indians. In this place they 
 also deposited their dead, the chiefs always having a 
 separate place allotted to them. Their Bouri , or 
 spirit house, is also here. 
 
 We remained at this anchorage for six days, during 
 which time we were plentifully supplied with salmon, 
 venison, &c., by the indians. 
 
 On the 28th of July, we got underway and proceed- 
 ed down the Straits of Juan de Fuca, bound to Co- 
 lumbia River. On the 2d of August we were off Cape 
 Flattery. After beating with light and head winds 
 for four days, we succeeded in reaching the outer ex- 
 tremity of the straits, opening into the North Pacific, 
 and were then nearly opposite Clausette Harbor, so 
 named after a tribe of indians inhabiting this part of 
 the coast. At 9 o’clock, a canoe came off to us, bring- 
 ing fish, &c., for trade. In this party was a chief of 
 some distinction, who stood erect in the canoe, no 
 doubt to render himself more conspicuous. When he 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 225 
 
 came alongside, Capt. Wilkes asked him if he wished 
 to come on board, to which he replied in broken Eng- 
 lish in the affirmative ; and accordingly he was per- 
 mitted to come on hoard. Afterwards several others 
 were permitted to come on board. One or two of 
 them spoke a little English ; the chief in particular, 
 spoke many words quite distinctly. The chief in- 
 formed Capt. Wilkes that opposite to us there was a 
 good harbor, and invited him to go in and anchor. 
 
 The stature of these people, like most on this coast, 
 is much below the general standard. The height of 
 an old man who came on board, and who was rather 
 bent with age, was about four feet ten inches, and 
 that of the others was about five feet. Their faces 
 are flat and broad, but quite plump in the young indi- 
 viduals ; their skin is smooth, — complexion not very 
 dark, except in some who were smeared with char- 
 coal ; their teeth were very white, nose flat and broad, 
 hair black, straight and glossy, and their hands and 
 feet extremely diminutive. The adult females are 
 quite as tall as the men, being from four feet eleven 
 inches to five feet. The features of the children were 
 regular, their complexion clear and by no means 
 dark, their eyes small, and although the form of their 
 faces is flat, their countenances might perhaps be 
 considered pleasing, according to the ideas of beauty 
 which habit has taught us to entertain. 
 
 Their hair, which is jet black and very long, hangs 
 loosely about their shoulders, a part of it on each side, 
 being carelessly plaited and sometimes rolled up into 
 an awkward bunch, instead of being neatly tied up 
 on the top of the head. Some of the younger females 
 seem to have much bashfulness and timidity, and 
 
226 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 differ very materially from the women in the South 
 Sea Islands, in not being tattooed. The chief was 
 very decently dressed for an indian, and was the only 
 one in the party who was. He was attired in a thin 
 coat which had been originally white, but was then 
 rather worse for wear, and also a little dingy, — blue 
 cloth pantaloons, with a red sash around the waist, 
 and over that a sash belt, composed of different colored 
 beads ; also in each ear a string of beads was suspend- 
 ed. He was quite loquacious, and spoke to the cap- 
 tain on many interesting subjects relative to the differ- 
 ent tribes of indians with which he was acquainted. 
 
 At 3 o’clock we came to anchor in Clausette Har- 
 bor; — the first ship, no doubt, that ever anchored 
 here. It has never been properly surveyed, and but 
 little has been known even to the fnr traders, proba- 
 bly on account of the savage disposition of the natives, 
 with whom they trade very cautiously: they never 
 trust more than half a dozen on their decks at a time. 
 Capt. Wilkes deemed it important that it should be 
 accurately surveyed, and a chart of it made ; there- 
 fore two days were occupied in its completion. The 
 harbor is small, but safe for vessels to enter, and will 
 doubtless prove a very useful retreat for vessels trad- 
 ing on the coast when it becomes generally known. 
 On the following day, after completing the survey, we 
 got underway and stood out to sea. 
 
 At 8 o’clock on the morning of the 6th, we made 
 the land near the mouth of Columbia River. W e 
 
 fired a signal and shortly afterwards perceived the 
 schooner Flying Fish coming out from the river to 
 meet us. Another ship was also standing in for the 
 harbor at the same time. When the schooner was 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 227 
 
 coming out, Mr. Knox, commander, saw that the ship 
 was approaching the wrong passage, and immediately- 
 fired a shot across his bows, which made him heave 
 to ; he then ran along side and informed the captain of 
 his imminent danger. In a few moments more she 
 would have shared the fate of the Peacock, as she 
 was in the same track. She proved to be the Ameri- 
 can whale ship Orozembo, bound into port for the 
 purpose of recruiting her men. She was supplied 
 from our ship with preserved meats and antiscorbutics. 
 At 10 o’clock we were boarded by Capt. Hudson, who 
 came out in the schooner. We then had the news 
 of the wreck of the Peacock confirmed, which hap- 
 pened on Sunday, the 17th of July, while attempting 
 to cross the bar at Columbia River. 
 
 Captain Wilkes, learning the fate of the Peacock, 
 declined venturing over the bar with his vessel, and 
 in the evening joined the brig Porpoise, in which ves- 
 sel he proceeded over the bar, intending to survey 
 Columbia River, — leaving orders for us to stand off 
 and on until the Schooner should return on the fol- 
 lowing day. 
 
 After an unusual delay, in consequence of bad 
 weather, the Schooner arrived, bringing twenty of 
 the Peacock’s crew, and also Captain Ringgold, of 
 the Brig Porpoise, who was to take charge of our ship 
 in the absence of Capt. Wilkes. At twelve o’clock 
 all hands were called to muster, when Capt. Ring- 
 gold informed them that he was about to take com- 
 mand of them for a short time, and hoped that their 
 conduct would merit a favorable report to Capt. 
 Wilkes on his joining us at San Francisco. The 
 
228 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 broad pendant was hauled down and the coach-whip 
 hoisted in its place. 
 
 Shortly after we made sail and squared with a fair 
 wind for Port San Francisco, upper California, where 
 Captain Wilkes intended to join us in about two 
 months. 
 
 On the 12th August we stood in for the land and 
 took a view of the land about Cape Blanco, situated 
 in lat. 38 deg. north. The coast every where presents 
 a dreary prospect ; and is composed of rocky cliffs 
 and overhanging beaches of stones and sand ; from 
 them the land ascends abruptly until it breaks into 
 mountains and ridges, clothed in absolute sterility. 
 
 The rains of heaven are often withheld from here 
 for eight and ten months at a time, at which time the 
 sources of vegetation are dried up in most places, ex- 
 cept in some valleys which are watered by streams ; 
 owing to this circumstance no prospect is here offered 
 to the adventurous husbandman. 
 
 On the 14th of August, we were near Port San 
 Francisco, and at 2 o’clock crossed the bar at the en- 
 trance of the harbor, in five fathoms of water. We 
 had a fine breeze and glided rapidly and beautifully 
 along. We proceeded up the bay a distance of ten 
 miles, and came to anchor opposite the Spanish set- 
 tlement of Yerba Bueno, a settlement so called by 
 the Romish missionaries who settled it. There were 
 at anchor also two American ships, and two brigs, 
 one American, and the other Mexican. 
 
 Shortly after coming to anchor, we were visited by 
 Capt. Phelps, of the ship Alert of Boston, who in- 
 formed us of the death of William H. Harrison, Pres- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 229 
 
 ident of the United States, which occurred one month 
 after taking the Presidential chair. 
 
 We remained at this anchorage until the 16th, when 
 we got underway and beat over to Sansantito or 
 Whaler’s harbor, a distance of about five miles, where 
 a supply of fresh water could be obtained, and also 
 fresh provisions. We had been plentifully supplied 
 with fresh beef, but vegetables were scarce and very 
 dear ; the Spaniards here, like the indians, are too lazy 
 to cultivate the soil. 
 
 A short description of this region of America, proba- 
 bly, may be somewhat interesting. 
 
 San Francisco, Upper California, is a deep bay 
 making into the land on the west coast, and is one of 
 the discoveries of Sir Francis Drake in 1579, while 
 running along the coast of America. He, however, 
 did not examine it, but merely mentions that there is 
 such a place. There is no doubt but that the Span- 
 iards knew of its existence long before Drake ever sail- 
 ed in the Pacific, for while colonizing this country, 
 this place was taken up as one of their early mission- 
 ary stations, to civilize and christianize the natives ; 
 and even to this day there are many remains of the 
 different missionary stations existing. To what ex- 
 tent these missionaries succeeded is not known to any 
 part of the civilized world, except Spain, whose inter- 
 est it was to keep every thing of this nature a pro- 
 found secret ; this was also their policy in reference to 
 their discoveries and interior researches, fearing that 
 some other country might supersede them, and reap 
 the benefits. 
 
 Whether this part of the coast was ever thickly in- 
 habited by the aborigines or not, I am unprepared to 
 20 
 
230 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 say, but such is the fact, that for many miles in the in- 
 terior, there is scarcely a native to be seen now, except 
 an inmate of some Spanish dwelling. The appear- 
 ance of the land in the vicinity of this bay is moun- 
 tainous and much broken, possessing an exceedingly 
 sterile appearance. This, however, is owing, in part, 
 to the severe drought which had prevailed for the last 
 two years. The interior is more fertile and produc- 
 tive ; wheat, rye, barley, indian corn and beans, grow 
 in great abundance when cultivated; all kinds of 
 garden vegetables thrive, and particularly onions, 
 which grow very large. Those vegetables, in most 
 cases, for the last two years have to be watered by 
 means of irrigation. 
 
 The entrance into the bay is somewhat narrow ; 
 the land being high on both sides and much broken, 
 renders the scenery rather of a romantic appearance, 
 when contrasting the white sand beach with the ster- 
 ile hills. On the right hand, and at a commanding 
 distance, is a battery, situated on an elevated rock, 
 which, if properly fortified and commanded, would 
 be able to bid defiance to any number of vessels that 
 might attempt an entrance. A little beyond, on the 
 same side in a valley, is the barracks for the men and 
 officers, belonging to the same. Within the bay and 
 before you arrive at the port, as it is termed, are sev- 
 eral small islands, together with the mouth of the Rio 
 Sacremento, which empties its waters among these 
 variegated islands, and gives the whole an appear- 
 ance somewhat romantic. As you advance, you 
 suddenly round a projecting point, which terminates 
 in a peak, and forms a small indenture where vessels 
 anchor. This little bay is of a semicircular form, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 231 
 
 the land receding in many places abruptly, at the 
 bottom of which there are a few houses, built in the 
 European style, with here and there a “rancho” or 
 country seat. 
 
 Just back of this place, at a distance of about 
 nine miles, is one of those missions, which generally 
 supplies the port with vegetables. During the time 
 in which this country was subject to Spain its ports 
 were closed against all foreign intercourse, but since 
 it has changed its masters, its ports, with certain re- 
 strictions, have been open to the commercial world. 
 From the immense number of wild cattle which roam 
 in the vast plains of California, and which have been 
 killed for their hides and tallow only, of late many 
 vessels from the United States have visited the dif- 
 ferent parts annually to procure hides. Their tal- 
 low and jerked beef are exported by land, along the 
 coast, and even to many parts of Europe. Conse- 
 quently, this country, from this scource alone, receives 
 an immense revenue ; and at that time there were two 
 American vessels at anchor there, engaged in that 
 trade, with those of Columbia and Mexico, collecting 
 hides and tallow. From some mysterious cause no 
 meat of any kind can be cured here with salt, or in 
 any other way except by drying it in the sun ; how- 
 ever, this can be effectually accomplished, from the 
 fact that the climate is so fine and the air so salubrous. 
 
 I am of the opinion that this region of California is 
 very healthy for invalids in pulmonary diseases. I 
 have been informed by a long resident in this coun- 
 try that there is no one disease peculiar to it or in any 
 way common. 
 
 The inhabitants are Spaniards or their descendants, 
 
232 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 generally mixed with the natives of the country by 
 intermarriage, until there is scarcely a Spanish feature 
 to be seen among them. The aborigines of the coun- 
 try are a diminutive race, much below the common 
 stature of Europeans, and are smaller than those in- 
 habiting the region of Oregon, about Juan de Fuca. 
 Another striking peculiarity in the feature of the 
 country, is the extreme diminutiyeness of all kinds 
 of vegetables, compared with those that we saw in 
 Nasqually. The trees here are mere dwarfs and sink 
 into insignificance in the comparison. 
 
 The country abounds in all kinds of game. Deer 
 are so plentiful that we saw fifteen and twenty in a 
 drove, playing on the declivities of the hills, in sight 
 of our anchorage. Birds of various kinds were seen 
 in great abundance, and in the interior were so tame 
 as to allow themselves to be captured with clubs. 
 The seine was hauled once and the fish caught were 
 of an excellent quality, but not in any great abun- 
 dance, though embracing several species. There 
 were many venomous reptiles to be found every 
 where in the country ; the rattlesnake is common, 
 also an animal about the size of a rat, whose bite is 
 said to cause instant death. 
 
 The preceding remarks are applicable more particu- 
 larly to that part of California which borders on the 
 coast. As you recede, the soil becomes more fertile, 
 and the country -more interesting. The greater part 
 of the entire territory is exceedingly fertile, though its 
 excellencies are not appreciated by its badly governed 
 inhabitants. Though republicanism — self-styled — 
 had been long talked of, yet but little of the pure ge- 
 nius of freedom has ever dawned upon this beautiful 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 233 
 
 country. The officer of government has been here, 
 but nothing like a system has ever existed. The un- 
 alienable rights of free suffrage are neither generally 
 understood, nor practised. Popular elections are en- 
 tirely unknown. 
 
 Yankee enterprise, and the “ spirit and principles of 
 the pilgrims,” might make this the “ garden of Ameri- 
 ca.” Its physical resources are almost unbounded. 
 The soil is rich and deep, varying from three to four 
 or five feet in depth. Nor is this confined — as is often 
 the case — to valleys and meadows, but extends to the 
 “ table land” and mountains, whose variegated ac- 
 clivities are clad in a thick garment of verdure and 
 luxuriance, for the greater part of the year. The va- 
 rious kinds of grain may be raised here in profusion, 
 not only from the fertility of the soil, but from the 
 fact that more than one crop may be harvested in the 
 year. There is a freshness and luxuriance in the 
 vegetable kingdom that give this place a decided pre- 
 eminence. 
 
 This country has superior facilities for the culture 
 of the grape, &c. Could fruit of this nature be prop- 
 erly cultivated, the time would not be far distant 
 when this country, and indeed this continent, would 
 not be dependent upon the eastern world for fruit. 
 There are, however, several vineyards to be found 
 among the more wealthy Spaniards, which produce 
 fruit of an excellent quality, but all are but poorly 
 cultivated. We can only infer from these what would 
 be the result if the vine should be cultivated here, as 
 elsewhere. 
 
 The numerous herds of cattle upon the many hill- 
 sides and verdant plains, give ample evidence of its 
 20 * 
 
234 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 qualities as a grazing country. Thousands of them 
 may be seen quietly grazing, unscared by the ordina- 
 ry labors of the husbandman, for the native is too in- 
 dolent to cultivate the soil to any considerable extent. 
 When the calls of nature demand food, he has simply 
 to select a bullock from some of these extensive herds 
 and capture his prize as may best suit his convenience. 
 The lasso is often used for this purpose. While beef 
 can be obtained so easily, they make but little effort to 
 obtain the fruits of the earth by culture. Though 
 grain may be raised with comparative ease flour can 
 not ordinarily be obtained without about four times 
 its expense in New England. They are emphatically 
 a beef-eating people. 
 
 'The New England farmer, who prides himself in 
 his beautiful horses, his fine oxen, &c., his improve- 
 ments in his stock in general, would be surprised to see 
 the beauty and symmetry of these large herds, which 
 are simply 'permitted to grow, without any effort to 
 improve their quality. They would gladly dispense 
 with their “imported specimens of perfection,” and 
 furnish themselves from those fertile plains, where 
 nature is seen in her simplicity. 
 
 In fine, few places, probably, can vie with this in 
 almost every thing that pertains to agriculture. Su- 
 peradded to a rich soil, animate nature seems to con- 
 spire to lend her influence to give a charm to this im- 
 portant avocation. The plains and “ table lands” are 
 checkered with unnumbered cattle, the forests resound 
 with the music of numerous birds of rare beauty of 
 plumage, and every lake, river and smaller body of 
 water teems with the finny tribe, some of the most de- 
 licious flavor. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 235 
 
 In a commercial point of view, it has many facil- 
 ities of no ordinary description. Nearly surrounded 
 on the one hand by the broad Pacific, and on the other 
 by its deep and beautiful gulf, — to say nothing of its 
 rivers, — it has a line of sea-coast that may, at some 
 future day, be whitened by the sails of the world. 
 Indeed this cannot long remain unnoticed and unoc- 
 cupied by an enterprising people. It is not too much 
 to predict that many years will not elapse, ere the 
 shrill whistle will echo through these verdant glens 
 and deep ravines, as the car thunders along the plains 
 of California to its metropolis on its western borders. 
 The steam-ship may ascend its gulf and be moored at 
 the mouth of the Colorado freighted with the produc- 
 tion of the East Indies, China, or the British Isles. 
 Works of art may soon gild these hill-sides, where 
 now the grazing herds bear undisputed sway ; — for- 
 tifications may rise along these almost uninhabited 
 shores, and Loreto and San Diego become to western 
 California, what Boston and New York are to the 
 Eastern States. 
 
 On the 8th, a large party of Spanish ladies, by in- 
 vitation, paid a visit to the ship ; the quarter deck 
 was decorated with a profusion of the flags of almost 
 every country in the civilized world, and a regular 
 u fandango ” commenced at half past twelve o’clock, 
 which was continued until ten at night. It appeared 
 to be the desire of all the officers to render the ladies’ 
 time as agreeable as possible, although there were only 
 one or two who could speak the language. The ladies 
 performed many dances peculiar to the country, such 
 as the old gentleman teased to death by a young girl 
 whom he had promised to marry, but afterwards 
 
36 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 found her inconstant, and finally makes up with 
 her and they get married. Another dance was per- 
 formed solely by the ladies, which was gracefully exe- 
 cuted, personating a “bull dance,” or rather a bull 
 bait. This was something new to me, and it will 
 not be surprising that I was somewhat interested, 
 however ludicrous it may have been. Both men and 
 women retired to the shore with a good stock of wine 
 on board. 
 
 A boat with Passed Midshipman Davis and three 
 marines was sent to capture some of the runaway crew 
 of the whale ship Orozembo, supposed to be secreted 
 somewhere about the Rio Sacremento. 
 
 They succeeded in securing the deserters who had 
 foolishly left us. In reference to the reasonableness 
 of the dissatisfaction on the part of such as left the 
 whaler, I am not prepared to decide. Those of our 
 number, however, had not, in my estimation, sufficient 
 reason for the course pursued by them. Capt. Wilkes 
 and our officers were uniformly kind, and did much 
 to subserve the welfare and comfort of the crew. 
 
 It is true, however, that seamen are often, very 
 often, improperly treated, yet it is also true that they 
 are sometimes inclined to a spirit of insubordination, 
 and entail upon themselves many evils. 
 
 In extenuation of the conduct of the above desert- 
 ers, it should be stated that they had been long from 
 home, and probably a recollection of their birthplace 
 and the many associations of childhood’s home, had 
 much influence in producing these sad results. The 
 love of home probably is among the strongest senti- 
 ments of the human mind ; nor can it be lamented that 
 such the case. Yet when such misfortunes result in 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 237 
 
 a non-fulfilment of previous engagements, it is to be 
 deprecated. 
 
 Captain Salter, from the Rio Sacremento, formerly 
 a captain in Bonaparte’s army, made a visit to the 
 ship in company with the Russian Governor ; several 
 other distinguished visitors called about the same 
 time. We learned that Captain Salter had purchased 
 the Russian settlement at Port Diego for thirty thou- 
 sand dollars, and that the Governor and all the Rus- 
 sians were to leave for their settlement in North 
 America by the first opportunity. 
 
 During the afternoon another regular “ Spanish set- 
 to ” took place on board ; all the Spanish ladies around 
 in the vicinity came on board and dined, after which 
 they commenced waltzing, and a fandango closed the 
 evening’s entertainment. They were “quite blue,” 
 and returned under the shades of the evening. This 
 was the second bacchanalian feast held on board du- 
 ring our stay there. 
 
 On the 20th, the United States Brig Oregon, Capt. 
 Hudson, arrived from Columbia River. This vessel 
 was the late Thomas Perkins, and was purchased by 
 Captain Wilkes for the purpose of taking the officers 
 and crew of the Peacock home. The Peacock, it will 
 be recollected, was wrecked in passing a bar off Co- 
 lumbia River. The crew were to be transferred to 
 the brig. 
 
 On the evening of the 24th, the Launch arrived with 
 a portion of the officers, scientific gentlemen and men, 
 who had been on a land expedition from Columbia 
 River to California. A number of these suffered very 
 much on the route from intermittent fever, and some 
 were quite exhausted. The distance traveled by 
 
238 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 them was about six hundred miles; during most of 
 the time, they were compelled to be constantly on 
 their guard against the indians, some of whom were 
 of the most savage character. However, the party 
 mustered too strong for them to risk an attack, and 
 they suffered them to pass unmolested. 
 
 The launch and first cutter were hoisted in, and the 
 tents on shore, with some of the instruments, removed 
 on board. Things now began to look like going to 
 sea. In a short time all things were ready and we 
 were about to take our leave of this place. This was 
 acceptable news to most of us, as we were getting 
 somewhat fatigued with the monotony of our duties, 
 more especially for a few weeks immediately preced- 
 ing that time. We felt that leaving this place was 
 nearly allied to an embarkation for home. 
 
 At 3 o’clock, P. M., all hands were called to get 
 underway, and by half past 2 o’clock the anchor was 
 up, and we were passing slowly from our anchorage, 
 with a very light wind, bound to sea, — Brigs Porpoise 
 and Oregon in company. At 7 o’clock the wind died 
 away perfectly calm, at which time we were imme- 
 diately on the bar, and meeting a flood tide were com- 
 pelled to anchor, to avoid being drifted back and 
 probably on shore, as the ship was at that time en- 
 tirely unmanageable. In this situation we were com- 
 pelled to lie all night, and a more disagreeable time I 
 never experienced. When the tide set in strong, the 
 breakers on the bar were tremendous ; the waters of 
 the Rio Sacremento meeting those of the Pacific, 
 created a formidable line of breakers which at times 
 rolled in with fearful violence over the bar. 
 
 The Rio Sacremento is a river of considerable size, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 239 
 
 and rising as it does in lakes at some distance from 
 the coast, it pours a mighty mass of waters into the 
 ocean at this place. Its turbid current enlarges in its 
 course toward its ocean home, becoming more and 
 more precipitous as it urges its way along the moun- 
 tainous region, until its chafing tide reaches the in- 
 rushing waters of the Pacific. Here then is a mighty 
 contest. The mingling masses rise high in air as 
 they meet, and foam, and lash each other with tre- 
 mendous power. They roll, and dash, and heave in 
 the wildness of ocean scenery, crest meeting crest, 
 current opposing current, billow overleaping billow, 
 while a far-reaching spray is sent up, which distinct- 
 ly marks the place of the “warring element.” Its 
 roar is heard at a distance, especially when the Sac- 
 remento is swollen, and a strong breeze from the 
 south and west drives the approaching tide toward 
 this projecting bar with doubly accelerated force. 
 
 It is at such times that the sailor, who is so unfor- 
 tunate as to be on this bar, is reminded of the frantic 
 storm, “ wild in its madness,” in mid ocean, when 
 the Creator of the “sea and the dry land” stretches 
 forth his mighty hand, and the “winds and waves 
 obey him ;” when it is lashed into fury by the torna- 
 do’s fearful power, raging, rolling, and uplifting in 
 stupendous grandeur. 
 
 During the night, we were in constant danger of 
 being overwhelmed by the billows that were breaking 
 around us. In the gloom of darkness a formidable 
 roller came in and struck the ship, which inundated 
 the deck, and floated several of the officers out of 
 their state-rooms. 
 
 But little sleep could be obtained by any one during 
 
240 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 this tedious night, in consequence of the motion of the 
 ship, and the noise made by different articles that 
 were rolling about the deck. The morning came, but 
 with it, but. little hope of being relieved from a dis- 
 agreeable and dangerous situation. The calm still 
 continued, and the rollers still came in at intervals, 
 roaring like distant thunder for a mile or more before 
 they made their appearance, while we were expecting 
 every moment to hear our chain part, from the sud- 
 den jerks of the ship while rising over the rollers. At 
 4 o’clock a tremendous roller came in and struck us 
 violently on the larboard bow, carrying away the 
 nettings as far as the after part of the fore rigging, 
 flooding all the decks, and breaking the boats and 
 spare spars on the main deck. 
 
 At this time, Joseph Aushouse, marine, was going 
 upon deck to the head previous to going on post, and 
 was killed by the rupture of the “ vena cava abdomin- 
 alis This accident happened by a blow against the 
 abdbmen, with a spare spar which was thrown 
 against the unfortunate man. He died almost imme- 
 diately, and his body was opened by the surgeon, 
 with the above results. The extent of the injury 
 was such as to have rendered all medical assistance 
 useless under any circumstances, even by the most 
 skillful physicians. At 8 o’clock we were favored 
 with a fair wind, but it was light, however; we took the 
 first opportunity to extricate ourselves from this dis- 
 agreeable situation, and got underway, and as Provi- 
 dence favored us, we succeeded in clearing the bar; 
 afterward, the wind dying away, we were compelled 
 to come to anchor in the stream in twelve fathoms of 
 water. At half past 1 o’clock all hands were called 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 241 
 
 to “bury the dead.” The seamen had been previous- 
 ly dressed in their uniform, white frocks and blue 
 pantaloons, and the marines in clean fatigues. The 
 body was brought on deck by the mess-mates of the 
 deceased, and conveyed to the lee gangway ; an en- 
 sign was the pall and a rough plank the bier . The; 
 funeral obsequies were performed by Capt. Hudson, 
 who took his station near the corpse, and read the 
 burial service of the Methodist Episcopal Church. 
 For a time all was hushed and still. — a death-like 
 silence pervaded the ship throughout. At the words; 
 we “ therefore commit the body to the deep,” a plunge 
 was heard, and a momentary melancholy seemed to 
 impress the minds of all ; but it was soon over, and 
 the usual pleasantry and mirth were soon commenced. 
 Three volleys of musketry were fired by the marine 
 guard over the ocean grave of the dead, and the sound 
 of the boatswain and his mate’s whistle, announcing 
 that all was over, closed the awful scene. 
 
 At three o’clock the wind again favored us, v?hen 
 we hove up the stream anchor and made sail. 
 
 On the morning of Nov. 2d, land was discovered, 
 which proved to be Monterey. The appearance of 
 this land is very mountainous and much broken and 
 diversified ; the prospect was sterile, with no sign of 
 vegetation any where visible on the seaboard. We 
 stood within four or five miles of the anchorage, and 
 sent the Porpoise in with the letter bag intended for 
 Mazatland. 
 
 We were at this time favored with fine breezes, 
 and were making rapid progress toward the place of 
 our destination. Our hearts were beating high with 
 21 
 
242 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 hope and buoyancy, and the “ lights” of the sailor 
 life were quite discernible. 
 
 The true sailor remembers his hardships but a 
 short time. Storms may gather wildly above him, 
 thunders roar, and lightnings play around his devot- 
 ed head ; a single plank of a noble wreck may buoy 
 him above a deep, dark, ocean grave, yet when the 
 placid sun again shines upon him, as the mutterings 
 of the thunder are heard only in the distance, a smile 
 lights up his countenance, and he is the same joyous, 
 fun-loving creature as in more favorable circum- 
 stances. His solemn vows are forgotten, thoughts of 
 land are dismissed and danger is thought of, only as 
 connected with the past. The probability of a recur- 
 rence of scenes of toil and peril, apparently is seldom 
 suggested to him, save by moaning winds or over- 
 cast sky, ominous of the approaching tempest. 
 
 # 
 
 CHAPTER X Y I . 
 
 Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Incident at Oahu — Departure 
 —A meditated attack of the Natives — Arrival at Singapore, 
 
 The dim horizon lowering vapors shroud, 
 
 And blot the sun, yet struggling in the cloud $ 
 
 Through the wide atmosphere, condensed with haze, 
 
 His glaring orb emits a sanguine blaze. 
 
 The pilots now their rules of art supply. 
 
 The mystic needle's devious aim to try. 
 
 It would be no easy matter to delineate to my read- 
 ers our feelings, as we “ filled away ” the main topsail, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 243 
 
 when we were about to leave the continent. We 
 could look abroad over the wide expanse of waters 
 which surrounded us, while the vast foaming fields of 
 the Pacific, China Sea, Indian and Atlantic Oceans 
 were stretching, as an almost unlimited barrier, be- 
 tween us and our loved homes, that mysterious place, 
 of all others the most sacred. Notwithstanding the 
 immense extent of this great “highway of nations , 55 
 every heart seemed elated with a secret joy, as the 
 waters went gurgling by, sparkling and foaming under 
 our bow, while the Vincennes was plowing her way 
 toward the setting sun. We were not, however, to 
 pass immediately to that cherished spot, but were now 
 bound for the Sandwich Islands. This fact compen- 
 sated, in a measure, for a longer detention from the 
 place which calls up, as from the grave, the scenes 
 and associations of childhood. 
 
 Our previous visit at the islands had been of a very 
 interesting character, and we had formed many pleas- 
 ing acquaintances, more especially with those con- 
 nected with the missions. Their uniform kindness to 
 us on our previous acquaintance, had left a deep im- 
 pression upon us, and it was a source of gratification 
 that we were again to witness the almost miraculous 
 effects of the introduction of Christianity among these 
 islands, so lately in the darkness of barbarism. 
 
 Nothing of particular interest occurred during our 
 departure from the continent, until we arrived at the 
 Island of Oahu, and once more dropped our anchor 
 in the harbor of Honolulu. Our friends and acquaint- 
 ances received us with every mark of respect and es- 
 teem, and every thing seemed to wear an additional 
 charm, as we were reminded, by these tokens of kind- 
 
244 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ness, of those endeared to us by the ties of affection, 
 toward whom we were urging our way as fast as cir- 
 cumstances would permit. Our greetings were scarce- 
 ly over, and few necessary preparations made, ere we 
 were ordered to be in readiness to embark, prepara- 
 tory to a cruise to the East Indies. 
 
 An incident occurred on the eve of our departure, 
 to relate which, I must beg leave to deviate somewhat 
 from the general tenor of the narrative. While we 
 were at Oahu at the previous time, we were furnish- 
 ed with an “advance” of three months, together 
 with about two weeks for innocent recreation. And 
 as if to render the circumstances still more ruinous, a 
 plentiful supply of “ grog money ” was added, amount- 
 ing, probably, to some hundreds and even thousands 
 of dollars. There were but few, if any, of the crew, 
 who had not at least fifty dollars, when they left the 
 ship. One week had not elapsed, however, before the 
 landlords — who much resemble those of other parts 
 of the world — had stripped them of nearly the entire 
 amount. It is not necessary to say whether, indeed, 
 they received any thing in exchange ; those acquaint- 
 ed with that part of creation denominated “land 
 sharks,” will be able to make their own inferences. 
 
 The Commodore had foreseen this result, and 
 knowing quite well that they would not be content 
 with this amount; but would induce many to enlarge 
 their hills, looking to him for the liquidation, caused 
 notices to be issued, forbidding such a course. In di- 
 rect violation of this order, however, they pursued the 
 course anticipated, swelling a bill of some $1500 or 
 more. When the Commodore remonstrated with 
 them for their treachery, they acknowledged that they 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 245 
 
 saw his notices. They were asked if they wished 
 him to falsify his word, and readily replied that they 
 did not. He then reminded them of the fact that 
 they knew, while granting the credit, that they must 
 lose it or he must be guilty of a falsehood, and as 
 they did not wish him to be thus guilty, they of 
 course must lose it. They were earnest and boister- 
 ous in their complaints against the measure, while 
 the Commodore listened with much apparent atten- 
 tion to their arguments, from which they inferred 
 that they had very much softened him in regard to 
 his resolution. In this they were mistaken. 
 
 After they closed their arguments, he said that he 
 u was very sorry indeed, and that his sorrow was still 
 greater that the bill was not $10,000 instead of $2,000, 
 not that he believed they had had half the amount of 
 their bill, but if it was the $10,000, he would not suf- 
 fer one cent to be paid, and that they could go ashore 
 as soon as they chose.” At this they were exceeding- 
 ly exasperated, and were very profuse of their threats, 
 at the same time intimating their design of sending 
 their bills to the United States for collection. Com- 
 modore Wilkes had encountered many dangers during 
 his eventful life, and was not much alarmed at this 
 u tempest in a tea-pot.” The threats of rum-loving 
 extortioners could not move him at this advanced pe- 
 riod of life, and the bills were “ squared by the fore- 
 top-sails,” as jack has it; there are thousands beside 
 these soulless landlords, who will long have occasion 
 to remember the United States Exploring Expedition. 
 No ship had ever visited these islands, connected with 
 which there were so many marked incidents, or so 
 great an amount of money left. After completing all 
 21 * 
 
246 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 necessary preparations, we took a final leave of our 
 friends on these islands, and embarked. It was, in- 
 deed, a scene of thrilling interest, to see our ship swift- 
 ly gliding through her watery way, as the dim out- 
 line of this interesting spot faded from our view; she 
 was a rapid sailer, and we felt that every mile was 
 an additional evidence of the speedy termination of 
 our long and eventful cruise. 
 
 We touched at no islands of much importance until 
 we reached Manilla, which port we made after a 
 pleasant passage of several days. My opportunities 
 for observation at this time were somewhat limited, 
 from the fact that our stay was short; consequently I 
 shall be able to give but a vague description of the 
 manners, customs, &c., of the inhabitants. Manilla is 
 the capital of the Philippine Islands, and is a place of 
 considerable importance. It is by far the most com- 
 mercial city of the Archipelago, and contains, prob- 
 ably, about 14,000 inhabitants. Its exports are some- 
 what extensive, and are seen throughout the civilized 
 world. It is a Spanish port, and has the usual char- 
 acteristics of Spanish towns, — narrow streets, low 
 buildings and misshapen verandas. 
 
 The Philippine Islands, embracing four in number, 
 are remarkably fertile ; the climate is hot and in some 
 parts unhealthy, though the extensive ranges of 
 mountains, which rise far above the blue, foaming 
 waters of their shores, tend to mitigate the fervid heat 
 of the tropics. The luxuriant soil produces an excel- 
 lent quality of rice, sugar, some of the spices and 
 gums, though but few of the usual aromatics of the 
 tropics ; the various grains are abundant, while min- 
 erals are found to some extent. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 247 
 
 When we left Manilla, our course was through the 
 Sooloo Sea. This part of the ocean world had been 
 but little known to navigators, although some of the 
 more adventurous and enterprising had passed through 
 this sea; the navigation is exceedingly dangerous on 
 account of the innumerable coral reefs and sunken 
 rocks which often present themselves, while there is no 
 accurate chart to warn of their existence. Disasters 
 had attended the imperfect surveys that had been pro- 
 jected, and few that had been so unfortunate as to be 
 wrecked on the reefs, had ever survived to relate the 
 horrors of their fate. On the one hand were the dan- 
 gers of the ocean, and on the other, the ferocity of the 
 natives who inhabited the islands which intersperse 
 this part of the Pacific ; they were treacherous and 
 warlike, and delighted in blood and plunder. They 
 were Malays, and truly their “ habitations were filled 
 with cruelty.” They were far more barbarous than 
 most of the inhabitants of the islands which we had 
 visited during our cruise in the Pacific. 
 
 An incident occurred while we were surveying 
 on their coast, which very aptly illustrated the char- 
 acter of the inhabitants. While our boats were en- 
 gaged in “ measuring base,” by firing muskets, &c., 
 the Malays mistook us for a ship’s company in distress, 
 and supposed that our guns were designed as a sig- 
 nal for assistance ; they filled several of their largest 
 prows with men, armed with shields, spears, crises, 
 & c., and came down with full speed to attack us. 
 One of the boats, under the command of Lieut. Perry, 
 was at the head of the bay, while the others were sta- 
 tioned around the reefs ; the pirates ran into the bay, 
 landed, and began to brandish their spears, and com- 
 
248 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 menced surrounding the men. who were immediately- 
 ordered to the boat. By the coolness and address of 
 the officers and men, the natives hesitated a moment, 
 during which time the men had succeeded in reach- 
 ing the boat, carrying with them the eprovet ; they 
 had an abundance of small arms in the boat, and the 
 natives somewhat suspicious of our movements, prob- 
 ably distrusted their own strength. Mr. Budd, who 
 commanded the cutter, the boat to which I belonged, 
 seeing the apparent intentions of the natives, immedi- 
 ately weighed anchor and ran down to render assist- 
 ance, if it was required. When the Malays saw us 
 coming, they hurried back into their prows, and hoist- 
 ed a white flag in token of peace. We sailed up to 
 them, and after some conversation with them, through 
 an interpreter that we had taken from Manilla for 
 that purpose, they were induced to relinquish their de- 
 signs of plunder. After they were shown our arms, 
 and became acquainted with our strength, they made 
 sail and returned, while we continued our survey un- 
 molested. Had we been the crews of stranded mer- 
 chantmen, there can be but little doubt but that we 
 should have been plundered, and murdered or en- 
 slaved. 
 
 From the best information that I have been able to 
 obtain from those who have jeoparded their lives in 
 navigating the Sooloo Sea, all vessels that make this 
 voyage should be well provided with the means of 
 defence, should they be so unfortunate as to be wreck- 
 ed on these shores. Even now, it would be fortunate 
 if vessels should be able to pass without coming in 
 contact with the reefs that so thickly lie along the 
 passage. In addition to these dangers, the Sooloo Isl- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 249 
 
 ands have a regular system of organized piracy in 
 their employ, as it is supposed, four hundred vessels, 
 with an ample quota of desperadoes, which are en- 
 gaged in committing depredations upon defenceless 
 vessels that may chance to fall into their power. 
 
 The Malays, who are found at many of the islands 
 visited by us, are a treacherous, passionate and reck- 
 less class of barbarians, and seem to attach but little 
 value to human life. It is not unfrequently the case 
 that in a fit of rash and feverish excitement, they dis- 
 card all restraint and sacrifice their own lives to their 
 baser passions. One of the most usual methods, is 
 called “ running Amok.” When self-destruction is 
 premeditated, the victim prepares himself by some 
 means of intoxication, more generally by chewing 
 opium, assumes a more frightful aspect, while his 
 long, black, disheveled hair is dangling carelessly, 
 giving a fearful appearance to the self-constituted ma- 
 niac. In this attitude he unsheaths his murderous 
 crise, and rushes forth with deadly intent ; he attacks 
 such as may chance to fall into his power, vocifera- 
 ting ‘‘kill! kill!” with terriffic madness. This 
 slaughter is continued until he is overcome, and falls 
 a victim to his unhallowed passions. 
 
 We next made a harbor at Singapore, in lat. 3 deg. 
 N. and long. 105 deg. E., off the southern coast of Asia. 
 Singapore is an English island, but the majority of the 
 inhabitants are Chinese and Malays, by whom the 
 greatest part of the business is performed. W r e were 
 about discontinuing our surveys, and were to sail di- 
 rectly for our native land. Store ships, armaments, 
 6o c., were to be of but trifling importance to us during 
 the remaining part of the cruise. At this port, the Fly- 
 
250 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ing Fish, which had been our companion through the 
 cruise thus far, was disposed of, as unnecessary for us 
 after completing our surveys. She had been our asso- 
 ciate in toils and dangers, and when she passed us 
 with a strange commander and crew, with a foreign 
 pennon streaming in the fragrant gales of this balmy 
 spot, an involuntary sadness filled every bosom on 
 board. There seemed to be something in the nature 
 of our enterprise which strengthened the bonds of 
 sympathy, extending even to inanimate nature. Her 
 companion, the Sea Gull, had probably been lost olf 
 the coast of Terra Del Fuego, and her crew found a 
 deep watery grave. The Peacock had been strand- 
 ed at the mouth of the Columbia River, the Relief 
 had been sent home from New Holland, and the Vin- 
 cennes and Porpoise were all that remained of the 
 original fleet, which were to return to the United 
 States. 
 
 Singapore produces the finest pine apples that I 
 ever saw, and in the greatest abundance. We had a 
 fine illustration of this fact at the Consul’s, whose 
 plantation I visited ; he had several acres of his 
 grounds covered with a most luxuriant growth. He 
 kindly offered us as many as we might choose to ac- 
 cept ; we accordingly filled our boat about half full, 
 and took them to the ship. When perfectly ripe, and 
 plucked fresh from the stalk, they are decidedly 
 healthy, and they constituted a feast for us, for which 
 we felt grateful to the kind-hearted consul. 
 
 The Chinese, at this place, have a beautiful temple, 
 ornamented with some of the finest specimens of their 
 famed ingenuity; the whole fabric is indescribable, 
 from the innumerable figures that adorn its unique 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 251 
 
 structure. It produces, while gazing at it, just such 
 feelings in the beholder, as one has while listening 
 to the recital of their mysterious views of God and a 
 future state of existence. One might feel at a loss to 
 classify this singular edifice, as it is totally unlike 
 any thing recognized in the “ likeness of things in 
 heaven above, the earth beneath, or in the waters un- 
 der the earth,” that has ever come under my observa- 
 tion. In examining this temple, I could but regard it 
 as a tangible index of the solitary characteristics of 
 that highly cultivated, yet semi-barbarous people. 
 Claiming a great antiquity, they can boast of but little 
 progress. 
 
 Preparatory to our final departure for home, our 
 ship was put in proper condition for the cruise. We 
 left Singapore after a stay of a few days, passing 
 down through the Straits of Banca, and entered the 
 Java Sea, and through the Straits of Sunda into the 
 Indian Ocean. All was now life and hilarity, while 
 bright visions were flitting before us. The wind was 
 favorable, the weather fine, and our noble ship was 
 making rapid progress toward our destined haven; 
 for six days in succession, we were averaging thirteen 
 and a half miles per hour. We passed directly for 
 the Cape of Good Hope, but were detained two days 
 in consequence of head winds. This is always un- 
 pleasant, but doubly so under the present circum- 
 stances. The sailor dreads the calm ; he choses rather 
 to see the ocean foaming, heaving and tossed, lashed 
 by the fearful tornado’s power. There is too much 
 tameness and quiet about it to harmonize with the 
 energy and vivacity of his temperament. 
 
 After doubling the Cape, we sailed for the Island of 
 
252 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 St. Helena. It is impossible for me to gaze on this 
 desolate, barren isle, without sad reflections upon the 
 singular fate and probable feelings of that great man, 
 who signalized this gloomy rock, and clustered around 
 it associations which will run parallel with the flight 
 of time, and be vividly impressed upon the great mind 
 of a world, until this barren waste shall mingle in 
 chaotic confusion with a melting universe, when the 
 angel shall “ stand with one foot upon the sea and the 
 other upon the dry land,” and shall put a period to all 
 earthly things ! 
 
 Great men not unfrequently give character to the 
 age in which they live, and mark the spot in which 
 they were born or closed life’s career, with an im- 
 perishable fame. Such is St. Helena, the tomb of one 
 of the greatest warriors of his own or any other age • 
 and his confinement on this isolated “ rock of the sea,” 
 has called forth expressions of different feelings from 
 different minds, and while I would not approve his 
 faults, I would not depreciate his virtues, and the 
 close of his eventful life awakens in his behalf much 
 sympathy. 
 
 I visited the Longwood residence of this illustrious 
 Emperor, and found that it had been converted into 
 a stable for horses ; the “ dew-drooping willow” is 
 still “ leaning over” what had once been his grave. 
 I found but little satisfaction in my visit to this pris- 
 on rock, and was happy to arrive on board where 
 the “stars and stripes” of my own happy country 
 waved over my head in triumph. 
 
 After a stay of two days, the word “all hands up 
 anchor for the United States !” was given, ringing 
 through the various parts of the ship, producing 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 253 
 
 quicker and more joyous pulsations in every bosom ; 
 the capstan was manned, the anchor “ walked up to 
 the bows , 57 sail was made, and but a few moments 
 elapsed before the ship was underway, to tarry no 
 more until she should arrive at New York. And now 
 followed a time for thought, retrospect, and future 
 arrangements; all were filled with plans for future ac- 
 tion ; a thousand different schemes were originated by 
 which the schemer seemed confident that he might 
 obtain a compensation on shore. 
 
 All on board had been schooled in all the mysteries 
 of the sailor boarding-house system, and were partic- 
 ular to caution each other against the treachery and 
 fraud of landlords; each seemed fully determined to 
 take special care of himself and his money, but, poor 
 fellows, they knew but little of the tempter 5 s power ; 
 they knew but little of those artful stratagems which 
 were so soon to be thrown around ■ them, which they 
 had neither the moral courage nor firmness to resist. 
 
 Day after day, our ship continued to urge her way 
 onward with rapid strides, while nothing of moment 
 occurred to mar our happiness, or elate us with joy, 
 save the prospect before us. Of the feelings which 
 agitate the bosom of the sailor on an occasion like 
 this, the landsman can know but little. Hope, per- 
 chance, speaks of kindly greetings, a reunion of those 
 long sundered by time and space, the consummation 
 of the fancies of childhood’s sunny hours, or Fear 
 may marshal a dread train of forbodings, veiling the 
 countenance in a pall of sorrow. Four long years ! 
 how great and heart-rending the changes which that 
 time may have effected. How many loved ones had 
 terminated all earthly scenes, riven all the ties of af~ 
 22 
 
254 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 fection, and left naught behind save their virtues, and 
 a dying blessing, to console the wanderer, as he nears 
 the cherished spot of early life. Perchance a mother, 
 whose prayers, fervent, heart-breathed and effectual, 
 which arose to heaven for a departing son, may have 
 joined that vast congregation which has gone before 
 us; a father’s voice, so often heard in friendly coun- 
 sels, may be hushed in death; loved associates, a 
 brother, or a sister, whose memories may be cherished 
 as a sacred treasure, to be relinquished only at death, 
 may greet us no more. As scene after scene comes 
 up as a memento of the past ; as spot after spot is re- 
 visited, how frequent may be the evidence that some 
 kindred spirit chants above. 
 
 Some who had left home with the same joyous 
 hopes as ourselves, mingled not with us as we were 
 about to step again upon our native soil. One after 
 another had been committed to a deep, dark, coral 
 bed, surrounded by ocean’s treasures, to slumber until 
 the trump of God shall summon the “ sea to give up 
 her dead.” The Sea Gull’s crew, bound together by 
 endearing ties of friendship, had not been separated in 
 the hour of dissolution, but had sunk together, to re- 
 main until this “mortal shall put on immortality.” 
 Some who left the paternal roof, hand in hand with 
 ourselves, could not accompany us in our return. 
 Our approach was to cause many a bosom to swell 
 with joy or heave with anguish, as the sad tidings of 
 the death of loved ones should fall upon the ear, as 
 the mournful knell of departed hopes. 
 
 On the 10th of June, 1842, the faint outlines of 
 the highlands of Nevisink peered in view, pointing 
 us to our place of destination. As we approached the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 255 
 
 land, the wind died gradually away, and it was 
 thought advisable to come to an anchor and wait for 
 a steamer to tow us in. In a short time the boat ar- 
 rived, and took us to the quarantine ground, when 
 the health officer boarded us ; after a very short deten- 
 tion we passed rapidly up the bay to the city. As we 
 came abreast of the North Carolina, we fired a salute 
 of twenty-six guns, at the last of which the broad 
 pendant which the Commodore had honored for more 
 than four years, was hauled down and the command 
 of the ship was committed to Captain Hudson of the 
 Peacock, who then proceeded toward the navy yard, 
 and came to a final anchor. A steam boat was soon 
 along side, and the joy with which we passed our 
 bags and hammocks, on board, can be better imag- 
 ined by the reader, than expressed by myself. In the 
 short space of two hours we were all ashore in the 
 land of our nativity, — the toils and dangers of a long 
 and eventful cruise ended, and we were again free 
 men, in “ the home of the free.” 
 
 As it is probable that this volume will be read by 
 many a brother sailor, it may not be inappropriate to 
 recur to incidents connected with landlords, and some, 
 I am sorry to say, are not only lordly , but perfidious. 
 To those who have had fewer facilities of judging of 
 the character of the u land sharks ” than myself ; who 
 have observed less of their intrigues and stratagems, 
 it may be serviceable as a means of avoiding the 
 tyrants’ power. All may be aware of the fact that as 
 the hardy sailor returns from a long voyage, with his 
 hard-earned wages, this class of men — if the term is 
 appropriate — is ever ready to defraud such as may 
 come within their iron grasp, but by what means this 
 
256 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 is effected, some may yet be ignorant. They are, ap- 
 parently, unmoved by the tears and moans of kindred, 
 as they see loved ones drawn into the vortex of dissi- 
 pation and licentiousness, indifferent to the common 
 claims of humanity. Money they wish and money 
 they will have, though they wade through seas of 
 blood to accomplish their ends ; though the widowed 
 mother toils in sorrow and wastes her ebbing energies 
 as the direct consequence, or orphan children suppli- 
 cate a meager pittance from a frigid, heartless world. 
 Is this severe language 1 I would that it were untrue, 
 that it were the fitful imaginations of a disordered 
 brain, but many, ah l too many can sadly vouch for 
 its truthfulness. 
 
 Those employed in our naval service, are far more 
 in danger from this source than other seamen ; they 
 are longer from the hallowed influences of home, 
 and the refining, reclaiming tendencies of fireside as- 
 sociations. They are also more exposed to the hard- 
 ships, dangers and unfavorable influences of a marine 
 life, and consequently have an almost irresistible de- 
 sire to “enjoy themselves” (what enjoyments!) by 
 throwing off all restraint and plunging into a sense- 
 less hilarity and inebriation. Again, they ordinarily 
 have larger amounts of money when they come on 
 shore, and, as a natural consequence, soon come with- 
 in the contaminating grasp of these modern harpies, 
 and they seldom escape from their talons until their 
 funds are gone, and they are plunged low in the 
 depths of degradation and ruin, by this arch enemy, — - 
 for such he must be, however artful his pretended 
 friendship may be. This apparent friendship seems 
 very carefully graduated by the amount of remaining 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 257 
 
 funds, and its last impulse dies away, as the last cent 
 falls into his misery-filled coffers. 
 
 The “vilest of the vile,” of both sexes, are brought 
 into requisition, when a man-of-war is reported, and 
 a great many new boarding houses are opened for the 
 occasion. The whole fraternity of conspirators now 
 form their plans, and the whole wharf in the vicinity 
 of the ship is crowded with landlords and runners, 
 and as often as a sailor raises his head above the net- 
 ting, he is hailed with “mess-mate,” “ship-mate,” with 
 other familar appellations which are most coaxingly 
 applied to him, while their countenances and hearts 
 are living exemplifications of the sentiment expressed 
 by Shakspeare, “ A man may smile and smile, and 
 be a villain ; ” but as the sailor is a stranger to this 
 clan of new boarding masters, and as he is too frank 
 and honest himself to suspect their insincerity, they 
 often succeed in decoying large numbers of them into 
 their dens of infamy. The result is, that the fruit of 
 years of toil is dissipated in about as many days, and 
 their pleasant homes (?) are soon transformed into very 
 forbidding ones, and the victims, for whom they ex- 
 pressed so much regard, are required to find new 
 quarters. The purse being empty, the bags and 
 chests are next rifled, and not a vestige of decent 
 clothing remains which can become available. Exor- 
 bitant and imaginary bills, with downright robbery 
 for the climax, soon terminate the sailor’s tarry on 
 shore. Diseased, degraded and dispirited, he is soon 
 obliged to ship — or perhaps this is done for him by 
 his ever- watchful gaurdian , and his advance secured, 
 and when he is reinstated on the deck of the receiving 
 22 * 
 
258 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ship, he is cared as little for by the landlords as the 
 brutes that are slaughtered for his convenience. 
 
 These things were once transacted openly, but now 
 more cunning and management are requisite ; they 
 have recourse to every plot which they can devise, to 
 facilitate the accomplishment of their unworthy de- 
 signs. Draymen are bribed to obtain their clothes, 
 hammocks, (fee., under pretence of conveying them to 
 houses of good reputation, but instead of this, they are 
 carried where the premeditated plunder is effected. 
 
 New York abounds in just such places, and sailors, 
 on coming into port, must be exceedingly careful how 
 they select a boarding place, especially if they design 
 to visit their friends, and devote their earnings to 
 more consistent objects. They must be continually 
 on the alert, lest they are robbed while sober, but if 
 they can be induced to quaff the fatal cup, they may 
 bid adieu to pleasing associations with friends, and 
 the sweets of domestic life. 
 
 These secret plans are skillfully digested, and faith- 
 fully executed. Runners and accomplices are em- 
 ployed and bountifully compensated, making it a regu- 
 lar business to underrate all respectable “homes,” and 
 temperance boarding houses; intoxicating drink is an 
 important agent in the work of destruction. These 
 emissaries will distinguish themselves by their coarse 
 imprecations, profane curses and vulgar epithets; 
 nothing appears too harsh that can be said respecting 
 such homes for the sailor, as, they are well aware, tend 
 directly to abridge their nefarious business. Their 
 mental powers, it would seem, are taxed to concoct 
 falsehoods which shall be sufficiently libelous to preju- 
 dice seamen against such places, where they know 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 259 
 
 that they will be beyond their reach. Should these 
 fabrications fail, their next resort, perchance, is to get 
 their baggage into the hands of some bribed coach- 
 man, under the pretext of conveying it to a temper- 
 ance house, and a liberal fee will ensure the safe ar- 
 rival at some degraded and degrading den of infamy, 
 and before the sailor is aware of the character of the 
 place, his things are under the control of an intriguing 
 landlord, and it is with the utmost difficulty that he 
 can recover his property, without a legal interference, 
 during which delay, should not his pockets or his 
 chest be rifled, he may regard himself as fortunate. 
 An individual who will be guilty of such cowardly 
 and contemptible intrigue, will not be very scrupulous 
 when he has his victim within his grasp; what he 
 fails to get by permission, he will take by force. 
 
 Another stratagem is to employ some shrewd indi- 
 vidual to commence the work of destruction while at 
 sea, who under the garb of a shipmate can practice 
 his deception and be credited, however much he might 
 traduce respectable establishments, and discolor the 
 merits of other resorts, of which he is a base hireling 
 and utters falsehoods for the same reason that he en- 
 gages in his ordinary employments. 
 
 It is ordinarily true, that the payment on board of 
 a man-of-war does not occur until some days after 
 their arrival at port ; of this circumstance, the land- 
 lord is fully aware, and soon avails himself of this 
 advantage. His agent is furnished with funds, and 
 very generously — as it might seem — supplies their 
 present wants by loaning money or otherwise, but is 
 particularly careful to be present at the time of pay- 
 
260 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ment, and receives the check from the purser, of 
 course losing nothing by his investment. 
 
 The last, though not the least of these arts which 
 are devised to defraud the mariner, of which I shall 
 make mention, is performed by woman , — woman did 
 I say ? I will not thus dishonor that name, ever dear 
 to the virtuous. Degraded and unprincipled females, 
 by feigned smiles and hypocritical and specious graces, 
 insinuate themselves into favor with the unsuspecting 
 sailor, extorting from him valuable presents, or other- 
 wise making large draughts upon his funds, — often 
 relinquishing their victim only when the last dollar is 
 transferred to their hands, with not even an apology 
 for an equivalent. These individuals know well the 
 frankness, kind-heartedness and generosity of the 
 sailor, and effect his ruin when other efforts less fac- 
 inating, might fail. Numerous instances of this kind 
 have come under my own observation, but a few will 
 suffice to illustrate the effects of such devices to extort 
 presents by abusing the sailor’s generosity, and the 
 consequent treatment. Two seamen with whom I 
 was acquainted, had returned from a cruise up the 
 Mediterranean, one receiving $280, and the other 
 $ 310. The landlord had a wife and daughters who 
 were adepts in this kind of robbery. I was shown a 
 valuable silk dress, beside a considerable amount of 
 jewelry which had been presented by these seamen. 
 These were given on Monday; on Thursday they 
 were driven from the house, and on Friday, while I 
 was standing with them, these females passed us, 
 arm in arm with seamen who had more recently re- 
 turned, who might have shared a similar fate at the 
 next arrival. As they passed us on the sidewalk, the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 261 
 
 same beautiful and rich dress was drawn aside, that 
 it might not come in contact with that of the donor , 
 while the remark was distinctly heard, “ I wish these 
 filthy scamps would keep clear of the sidewalks , and 
 not spoil people's nice clothes." This occurred in 
 eight days after their arrival, and what became of the 
 $ 590, I will leave the reader to infer. 
 
 This is but one of many similar incidents, and 
 those who have long been familiar with this subject, 
 will, I think, sustain me in the assertion that “ not 
 one half has been told.” They know well that the 
 daughters and wife of the landlord, richly attired, 
 promenade the public resorts, displaying the fruits of 
 toil on the c< mountain wave,” the lavish gifts of the 
 afterwards despised sailor. 
 
 Lastly, I will mention one other means of ensnar- 
 ing the sailor. Many landlords, for the purpose of 
 the more effectually deceiving, remove the bar, while 
 liquors are kept secretly, and every effort is em- 
 ployed to induce men to purchase it. In this way 
 a far greater number is drawn into such places only 
 to be robbed, than less hypocritical persons, who make 
 no pretension to temperance can obtain. Others 
 again do not keep spirits of any kind, yet quite as ef- 
 fectually filch the sailor, while they preserve the ap- 
 pearances of respectability, and unfurl the banner of 
 temperance as a“ false beacon.” Two facts of this 
 nature were divulged by a sailor landlord, by way of 
 boasting, which X will insert. I well recollect of 
 hearing the same landlord censuring Mr. Morris, a 
 Bethel preacher, because he did not refer to his house 
 in his prayers, as well as the “ Sailor’s Home,” a house 
 of the first respectability. 
 
262 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 A sailor who had been paid off from a man-of-war, 
 knowing that he would be in danger of being robbed 
 of his earnings, and wishing to remain on shore as 
 long as possible, paid this landlord for one year’s 
 board in advance. In a short time afterward the sail- 
 or had been deprived of the remainder, and being un- 
 able to find employment on shore, went to the land- 
 lord for a portion of his funds, as he was compelled to 
 go to sea again, and was in want of clothes. He was 
 refused, and was obliged to go to sea with the few ar- 
 ticles that could be purchased with a month’s ad- 
 vance, and leave his money behind him. The land- 
 lord soon afterward removed to the state of Maine. 
 
 Another man boarded with him at the same time, 
 who deposited fifty dollars with the landlady for 
 safe keeping, offering her enough of it to purchase a 
 dress, for her trouble. On the next day, when he 
 asked her for a few dollars, he was informed that she 
 had used it all for her dress, and the poor fellow was 
 left penniless, nor did he ever recover one cent of his 
 investment. This is one of the temperance boarding 
 houses, of which every sailor should beware. It is 
 not a specimen of temperance houses, nor should such 
 assume the name. There are many homes for the 
 sailor, where temperance principles are strictly ad- 
 hered to, and where the welfare of boarders is con- 
 scientiously regarded. A list of these houses will be 
 found in each number of the Sailor’s Magazine, pub- 
 lished by the American Seamen’s Friend Society. 
 
 This is but a system of miniature piracy, and it is 
 presumed that in no fraudulent enterprise is there 
 more concert of action, more deeply laid plans, or 
 more success in pilfering, when the amount of funds 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 263 
 
 and the extent of the field of action are taken into 
 the account. True or false colors are raised, as may 
 best suit convenience, or best promote the objects. As 
 the wages are nearly exhausted the attentions become 
 less and less ; the Mr. is forgotten, and “ jack” is sub- 
 stituted ; pointed remarks in reference to li long stays 
 on shore” become more frequent ; after, neglect ensues, 
 and should this fail, he is thrust into the streets to lie 
 scorned and maltreated until he becomes awake to 
 the sadness of his situation, leaving behind him, per- 
 haps, the last cent of his wages and advance. He has 
 no other alternative but to rush from the scenes of his 
 degradation, a disconsolate, misery-stricken mortal. 
 
 Happy would it be if one misfortune of this kind 
 were sufficient to serve as a beacon for the remainder 
 of life ; but not so. The snare is laid in new and ev- 
 er-varying forms, victim after victim is entangled, in- 
 volving them deeper and deeper in misery and ruin. 
 
 It is a painful fact that our fears in reference to our 
 own crew, were sadly realized. As toilsome as had 
 been our cruise; though dangers had crowded thickly 
 around us, yet they were literally increased as we 
 greeted familiar faces in this great emporium of com- 
 merce. But a few days had elapsed before some who 
 had been long associated with us, and who were en- 
 deared to us by lasting bonds, were groveling in pol- 
 lution and drunkenness. Before the expiration of one 
 week, many had been placed on board the receiving 
 ship, the earnings of the entire cruise exhausted, some 
 never having seen the checks which had been trans- 
 ferred to the grasping landlords. Many who had had 
 bright hopes of pleasing intercourse with their kindred, 
 were denied that sacred privilege, and instead of a 
 
264 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 few weeks of recreation and exemption from the dan- 
 gers of an ocean life, were soon to commence another 
 cruise of years, probably to react the same scenes of 
 vice and dissipation. 
 
 Others, again, had departed in different directions, 
 and were soon revisiting the homes of their childhood, 
 where four years before they had pressed the parting 
 hand. 
 
 The events of the Expedition can not but awaken 
 peculiarly lively emotions in all who participated in 
 its deeply interesting incidents. Five hundred men 
 had left Norfolk to visit bleak and untraversed parts 
 of the world, in which cruise a deep, dark uncertain- 
 ty necessarily enshrouded our undertakings. The 
 sequel proved it to be such ; of the five hundred, but 
 two hundred and thirty-six reached the shore at that 
 time. A portion of the remainder arrived at different 
 times, and some slept in coral beds, to obey the sum- 
 mons of Omnipotence, when the unnumbered millions 
 of ocean’s children shall rise above its troubled bosom 
 an august assemblage, and join the vast universe of 
 created intelligences. 
 
 The remote results of this Expedition cannot easily 
 be predicted. Though the continent discovered may 
 not be, and perhaps may never be capable of being 
 peopled, its discovery was an acquisition to science 
 which may not be easily appreciated. We had visit- 
 ed unknown nooks of the globe, navigated unexplored 
 seas, and surveyed many islands of which there was 
 no previous knowledge. Hidden rocks and danger- 
 ous reefs had been laid down upon charts, that future 
 adventurers may not hazard life and property, while 
 extending the conquests of commerce and enterprise. 
 
REMINISCENCES, 
 
 WRECK OF THE PEACOCK. 
 
 The sailor’s life is emphatically one of toil and dan- 
 ger. He braves the tempest’s rage, the tornado’s 
 power, the lightning’s glare, the attack of pirates, — 
 not only on shipboard, but on the shore. He is liable 
 at any and every moment to be roused from his slum- 
 bers, to defend himself and that committed to his 
 charge, against the attacks of the ruthless bravado, or 
 to struggle with the warring elements. This fact is 
 very aptly illustrated in an eventful cruise of the Uni- 
 ted States Ship Peacock from the Island of Zanzibar 
 to the coast of Arabia. This was commenced in the 
 month of September ; the weather was delightful, and 
 the smiles of heaven and earth combined, seemed to 
 augur a safe and speedy voyage to the abode of Ish- 
 mael’s descendants. The thermometer ranged from 80 
 deg. to 85 deg., except on the 12th, when it arose to 
 90 deg., at which time we crossed the equator. On 
 the following day we had the most magnificent dis- 
 play of light and colors which the eye of man has 
 ever witnessed. At 4 o’clock the wind died away, — 
 not a breath gave the least ripple to the glassy surface 
 
266 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 of the ocean ; not even a flattering of the royals was 
 discernible. As the sun neared the western horizon, 
 a curtain of fleecy white clouds that lay outspread 
 like a spacious mantle, extending from the north-east 
 to the far south, began to be tinged with a faint yel- 
 low, which continued to deepen through gold, orange 
 and scarlet, to the richest, deepest crimson ; the sun 
 seemed to go down swelling with pride, as it waded 
 through this flood of glory to his western retreat. 
 
 The colors were presented with a brilliancy so daz- 
 zling, so indescribably magnificent, that any attempt 
 to give an adequate idea of their grandeur would be 
 ineffectual. The ocean too, as if to lend its aid, pre- 
 sented a broad expanse of a mirror-like surface, reflect- 
 ing the glittering glories of the heavens, and adding 
 a tenfold splendor and sublimity to the scene. All on 
 board came upon deck, and so intensely were all ab- 
 sorbed in the gorgeousness of the display, that not a 
 sound was heard for a considerable time, save some 
 involuntary ejaculations of astonishment and admi- 
 ration. 
 
 About ten minutes after sunset, a faint breeze began 
 to wave the lighter sails, and the commanding voice 
 of the officer, giving the order, — “Lay aft to the bra- 
 ces,” was the first sound that broke the stillness of 
 that beautiful evening. The order was followed by 
 the rattling of blocks and cordage, and the hasty tread 
 of seamen about the decks. The sails were trimmed, 
 and the breeze continued to freshen until daylight, 
 when we were dashing through the brine at the rate 
 of nine “knots.” We were vapidly leaving that 
 beautiful spot, yet I dare predict that not a man will 
 ever forget that sunset scene in the Indian Ocean. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 267 
 
 We passed on gaily and quietly, nothing of note oc- 
 curing until the 20th, when a train of circumstances, 
 following closely in the “ wake ” of each other, gave 
 us an additional illustration of the “ lights and shad- 
 ows ” of a sailor’s life. Every thing had borne an en- 
 couraging aspect, and all were cheered with the bright 
 prospect of soon reaching Arabia, and partaking the 
 delicacies which that fertile soil so abundantly pro- 
 duces, and where we might become acquainted with 
 the maimers, customs, costumes and matters of general 
 interest among this singular class of people, but how 
 illustrative of the fact that we u know not what a day 
 may bring forth.” Between “ five and six bells,”* on 
 the night of the 20th, while the watch below were se- 
 curely sleeping in their hammocks, the ship struck 
 with great violence upon a reef of coral rocks. In an 
 instant every thing was bustle and confusion ; — ail 
 hands rushed on deck. The ship continued to urge 
 her way among the rocks, until her collision with 
 them produced a continuous sound, resembling the 
 rumbling of thunder, and before the studding sails 
 could be taken in, and lighter sails furled, the ship 
 had forced her way about one mile and a half among 
 the rocks of the reef. It was nearly a half hour be- 
 fore the ship was fairly stopped, and from that time 
 until daylight, she continued to strike violently, so 
 that no one could stand upon deck without attaching 
 himself to the rigging. As soon as it became suffi- 
 ciently light to distinguish objects at a distance, we 
 discovered a low sand beach, nearly encircling us at a 
 considerable distance. There was also some higher 
 
 From half past 5 to 6 o’clock. 
 
26S 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 land near, which proved to be an island. To add to 
 onr distress, we found that we had run on the reef at 
 high water, at the height of the spring tide. Orders 
 were immediately given to “ break out” the spare 
 spars, booms, &c., lower all the boats as soon as possi- 
 ble. The yards and topmasts were sent down, and 
 every effort made to ease the ship, but still she con- 
 tinued to strike heavily. Soon afterward the tide be- 
 gan to ebb, and the ship began to careen so much 
 that it was necessary to set a spar on the reef, to par- 
 tially prevent it. The spare spars were then thrown 
 overboard and formed into a raft, upon which fifty or 
 sixty barrels of beef and pork were placed ; ten thou- 
 sand gallons of fresh water were discharged, large 
 quantities of grape and canister, &c., were thrown 
 overboard for the purpose of lightening the ship. 
 
 During the day we saw several proads or prows , 
 filled with men, sailing around us occasionally, and 
 intently watching our movements. The captain, pilot, 
 and passed midshipman, and several seamen left the 
 ship for the purpose of speaking them, but they 
 avoided them, brandishing their sWords and sailing 
 toward a point of land near, where they anchored. 
 We had but little doubt of their character, and had 
 reason to expect an intended attack at night. Ac- 
 cordingly we made all necessary preparations to re- 
 ceive them in a soldier-like manner, with the “ honors 
 of war .’. 5 Every officer and man slept with eutlases, 
 pistols, muskets, pike or battle axes at hand, but we 
 were not disturbed at this time. 
 
 On the next morning a boat was sent out for the 
 purpose of sounding; it was found that there was not 
 as much water astern of the ship as on the day of the 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 269 
 
 collision, though it was high water. After taking re- 
 freshments — raw pork and bread — we continued to 
 lighten the ship by throwing over two chain cables, 
 several hundred fathoms of hawser, after having buoy- 
 ed them. At noon we succeeded in taking an obser- 
 vation, and ascertained that the high land was the 
 small Island of Muceiva, in latitude 20 deg., and 
 longitude 58 deg. east, and almost fifteen miles from 
 Arabia Felix, or Happy Arabia. About this time the 
 pirates had considerably increased, having some eight 
 or nine prows , containing from twenty to sixty men 
 each; they ran down near us and anchored, forming 
 themselves into a line of battle, — a position very un- 
 favorable to us, as the situation of our ship gave such an 
 elevation to our guns that we could not dislodge them. 
 All hands were called to quarters and furnished with 
 small arms, preparatory to the expected encounter. 
 The warlike appearance of our ship, and the sight of 
 some of our men, who inadvertently arose above the 
 netting, probably deprived us of an opportunity of 
 teaching them an important lesson in military tactics, 
 and the futility of attacking a yankee man-of-war, 
 though in distress. The chiefs of the different prows 
 assembled in one of the savage vessels and held a con- 
 sultation, and afterward two of them jumped into the 
 sea and approached the ship. A rope was thrown to 
 them to assist them in coming on board, but they look- 
 ed terribly frightened when they saw themselves in 
 the presence of two hundred men, armed with all the 
 implements of naval warfare. 
 
 We had, while at Zanzibar, become acquainted 
 with a Polish officer, who had taken passage with us. 
 This man was the only one on board who could 
 23* 
 
270 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 speak the Arabian language, and was employed as 
 our interpreter. They had not been on board but a 
 few moments, before they had the hardihood to ask 
 how much money, and how many men we had on 
 board ; they were answered that we had an abund- 
 ance of both. The interpreter was then directed to 
 ascertain their terms upon which they would carry a 
 message to the Sultan at Muscat, returning the reply. 
 Although the distance was not more than might have 
 been traveled in one day, they refused to go for less 
 than $1000 ! In a short time they left us, made sail 
 and did not trouble us farther for the day. 
 
 On the next morning six men volunteered to go in 
 an open boat to Muscat, for the purpose of carrying 
 Mr. Roberts, Minister to the East Indian and Asiatic 
 Courts, and Mr. Rogers Taylor, a passed midshipman, 
 a most excellent and brave gentleman, a native of 
 Newport, R. I. The next morning at daylight, they 
 left the ship to perform their arduous journey. It 
 was soon observed that the pirates had concerted an 
 attack upon them, and were in hot pursuit. 
 
 Preparations were continued on board the ship, to 
 effect an escape from the reef if possible. The stream 
 anchor was dropped astern, with one hundred fathoms 
 of cable, and the capstan manned, but without mov- 
 ing the ship. At last, finding that she would not 
 float at high tide, we were driven to the painful ne- 
 cessity of throwing a portion of our guns overboard; 
 she then righted,” and by means of the anchor, we 
 succeeded in starting from our unpleasant position. 
 The fifer commenced that soul -thrilling air of the sail- 
 or, “ The girl I left behind me,” the men marching in 
 time with the music, with hearts as buoyant as if 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 271 
 
 nothing had befallen us, while the ship was rapidly 
 moving from her dangerous moorings. It was amus- 
 ing to witness the ardor with which the men performed 
 their circuit: when the fifer was unable, from fatigue, 
 to give us music, the sailors were not at a loss to sup- 
 ply that deficiency, by substituting songs of their 
 own, making some music, but more jargon. A color- 
 ed man rendered very important services on this joy- 
 ous occasion, by a sudden peal of a favorite air, com- 
 mencing with, “I wish I was in yankee town,” in 
 which he was joined by about two hundred stentorian 
 voices, and when the chorus — u ’Tis time for us to 
 go,” was struck, it might remind one of an earthquake 
 in miniature. The scene, though animating, was 
 really ludicrous. 
 
 Whether attributable to the power of music or 
 otherwise, one thing is certain, which is, that the cap- 
 stan was rapidly revolving and the ship was grating 
 harshly over the coral bed, and was soon beyond the 
 reach of danger. We again felt free, had less to fear 
 from attacks of the pirates, though their number 
 should be much increased. Though disabled and de- 
 prived of many of our guns and other necessary im- 
 plements. we were afloat on our loved element, and 
 felt that we could cope with a similar force, should 
 circumstances require it. 
 
 During this time we had been obliged to leave our 
 raft., provisions, &c., at the place where we commenced 
 lightening. This had been observed by the eagle-eyed 
 pirates, and they determined to avail themselves of an 
 opportunity to plunder us before the ship could be in 
 readiness to pursue them. At 12 o’clock, while we 
 were refreshing ourselves, an alarm was given; the 
 
272 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 marines were immediately mustered, and a volley of 
 musketry was discharged from the quarter deck, but 
 the distance was so great that it did no execution. 
 Lieut. Gordon sprang into the boat, followed by 
 Messrs. Darlington and Caldwell, and twenty seamen; 
 we made all possible speed to the windward of the 
 prow which had stolen our provisions. The pirates 
 kept close in under the land, following the curvature 
 of the beach, in order to avoid an attack from the 
 ship. As soon as they arrived at a position in which 
 the guns could be brought to bear upon them, they 
 opened a broad-side upon the prows, but did not reach 
 them, as they were some three or four miles distant. 
 
 It was an exciting time for us in the boat ; we were 
 laboring at the oars with our full strength, while the 
 roaring of the thirty-two pounders, and the rushing of 
 the shot, hissing and yelling over our heads, as they 
 were sent on an errand of vengeance to the freebooters, 
 together with the expectation of grappling with them, 
 though at least three times as numerous as ourselves, 
 gave a zest to our enterprise which should be experi- 
 enced to be appreciated. Fortunately for them, we 
 broke two of our oars, which materially diminished 
 our strength. 
 
 By this time the chief seemed confident of his abil- 
 ity to outsail us, and, jumping into the bow of his 
 boat, brandished his creece in defiance, while it glitter- 
 ed and -sparkled in the sunbeams. This was too 
 much for us. I raised my musket, and suddenly lev- 
 eled it at him, when he dropped his creece and fell 
 into the bottom of the boat. This was followed by a 
 general discharge from all in the launch. How many 
 were destroyed we were unable to ascertain ; it was 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 273 
 
 certain, however, that a large number was wounded. 
 They succeeded in passing in about a half musket 
 shot in the advance of us, carrying off some of our spars 
 and one or two barrels of provisions. We gave up 
 the chase and returned to the ship, highly incensed at 
 the conduct of these base marauders, who could thus 
 plunder us while in distress. 
 
 The next tide we worked the ship still farther 
 from the reef, £nd at night, slept with our arms by 
 our sides. On the following morning, at daylight, we 
 learned that the enemy had very much increased their 
 number, and were again standing down for us, prob- 
 ably elated with their success on the preceding day. 
 We were well aware of their intentions, and made 
 preparations to welcome them. We had now ^right- 
 ed,” and had eleven thirty-two pounders on deck, 
 with which we could have met a very much greater 
 number. It was the universal desire that they should 
 attack us during the day. In the mean time our la- 
 bors were continued as usual. We parted one of our 
 hawsers, and lost our stream cable and anchor. The 
 Commodore’s gig was laying off, and several boats, 
 with grapplings, were busily engaged in attempting 
 to secure them. While our boats were thus engaged, 
 the pirates attempted to run between them and the 
 ship, so that an attack upon them would endanger 
 the lives of our men. They were carefully watched 
 and their manoeuvres perfectly understood. When 
 they had approached sufficiently near, we poured a 
 broad-side of grape and canister upon them. The 
 shot went whistling among them, carrying away 
 their masts, tearing their sails and dashing large 
 quantities of water among the affrighted desperadoes. 
 
274 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 No sooner did they learn their mistake than they 
 11 tacked ship,” and attempted to escape from our 
 destructive fire, but it was no easy matter; we con- 
 tinued a constant fire as long as they were within 
 reach of us, much to their chagrin, no doubt. It is 
 impossible to determine with any accuracy what 
 their loss was, but judging from the hideous yells 
 that arose from all their boats, it was evident that the 
 work of destruction had been extensive. The prin- 
 cipal regret on our part, seemed to have been that we 
 were not able to give them “a little more grape.” 
 
 They were a wandering tribe of Arabs, inhabiting 
 the desert and known by the name of Bedouins ; they 
 have no established government, and live by plunder- 
 ing such as may be so unfortunate as to be wrecked 
 on their coast, while they carry the captured crews 
 into the desert, and subject them to the most abject 
 slavery. They are regarded by the Sultan, as pirates 
 are with us, and are executed, when captured, with- 
 out trial by jury. They probably learned a lesson 
 in this instance, that will make them somewhat re- 
 luctant to attack a yankee man-of-war, though strand- 
 ed on their coast. 
 
 That afternoon we worked the ship into about five 
 fathoms, after which all hands were called to “ splice 
 the main brace,” as an expression of commendation 
 (a ruinous practice, by the way.) It was found nec- 
 essary to keep a quarter watch at the pumps, as the 
 ship was making fifteen inches of water per hour ; 
 half of her false keel had been torn off, the copper dis- 
 placed to some extent, and what other damage, we 
 could not determine. The ship was put in as good 
 condition as circumstances would allow, preparatory 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 2 75 
 
 to making sail for Muscat, which occurred on the 
 27th. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th, while on our passage, 
 we saw a ship approaching us ; she continued to bear 
 down for us until within about three miles, when she 
 “ rounded to,” fired a gun and raised Arabian colors. 
 Finding that we did not notice her, she approached 
 nearer and fired again ; this was answered by us, at 
 the same time hoisting our colors. When she was 
 within one mile of us we saw a few men on the fore- 
 castle, dressed in the style of American seamen. She 
 hoisted out her boat which was soon along side, bring- 
 ing, beside her own crew, Mr. Taylor and the crew of 
 our 2d cutter. A smile of satisfaction animated the 
 faces of all on board, while the cordial grasp indica- 
 ted the warmth of attachment which existed among 
 the crew. Dangers, distress and trials bind hearts 
 together more firmly than prosperity and pleasures 
 can, and the recent events that we had encountered, 
 strengthened more and more the bonds of attachment 
 that had previously bound us together. 
 
 We soon learned the results of the expedition of our 
 2d cutter, which had been previously despatched to 
 Muscat. Finding that the pirates would overtake 
 them, they steered broad off to sea. They followed 
 them nearly out of sight of the land, but, having no 
 compass, did not dare follow them farther. That night 
 they encountered a severe gale, in which the boat 
 came near being swamped, off the Island of Maceiva ; 
 they nailed tarpaulins over the boat, leaving apertures 
 through which the head of the oarsman could be 
 thrust, and by dint of toil at the oars and bailing, 
 they succeeded in keeping afloat, until the gale was 
 
276 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 over, when they sailed for Muscat, where they 
 arrived in safety after four days’ sail. As they round- 
 ed the point, and entered the harbor, they hoisted the 
 boat’s ensign and made for the city. The Sultan’s 
 palace stands at the head of the bay, close to the water. 
 He discovered the boat, and as soon as he observed the 
 American colors, he sent an officer to meet them, and 
 came himself to welcome them. He had had an ac- 
 quaintance with Mr. Roberts ; the meeting was one of 
 thrilling interest to all who saw it. When he learned 
 that our ship was in distress on his coast, the finer 
 feelings of his nature were aroused, and he deeply 
 sympathized with us in our misfortunes. He imme- 
 diately ordered a sloop of war, then lying at the har- 
 bor, to be fitted up and to be placed in our service, 
 together with the crew. He also ordered his general 
 to detach 400 of his best men, to march immediately 
 over land to the place of disaster, to assist and protect 
 us, were we obliged to abandon the ship. The de- 
 tachment left the same night, marching under Amer- 
 ican colors, and hastened on their errand of mercy. 
 The sloop was soon in readiness, and was freighted 
 with sheep, goats, buffaloes, fruit and water, to supply 
 us, should they meet us on the passage. This was 
 the vessel that we had met, under the charge of Mr. 
 Taylor, whose appointment was ratified by the Com- 
 modore, when he came on board. Our ship was soon 
 filled with Arabian fruit, which was a most welcome 
 gift to us at that time, after so long a season of inces- 
 sant toil. The fruit consisted principally of grapes, 
 fresh and preserved dates, pomegranates, and melons 
 of various kinds. The pomegranates were a rare 
 fruit, having never seen them before. They are of 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 277 
 
 about the size of a quince, of a light green color ; they 
 are enclosed in a hard and brittle shell or rind. On 
 opening, the whole inside is filled with detached parts 
 or berries, like our currants, very much resembling 
 them in taste. Fresh figs just plucked from the trees 
 were also very abundant. 
 
 Our passage was very slow at this time, owing, in 
 part, to head winds, calms, &c., and to the shattered 
 condition of our vessel. On the morning of the 29th, 
 however, an incident occurred which relieved us of 
 some of our difficulties. We ran into a large shoal of 
 sun-fish, bearing some resemblance to the sea animal- 
 cules, only larger, and of a transparent jelly. This 
 shoal extended for several miles, and while the ship 
 was passing them, they were pressed with great force 
 into the bottom, nearly stopping the leak, very much 
 to our satisfaction. 
 
 On the 28th, we were passing Cape Rosalgat, about 
 eighty miles from Muscat. Every day after the sloop 
 met us, the Sultan’s barge came down to us, loaded 
 deeply with cattle, fruits and vegetables. We were 
 now making rapid progress toward the haven. 
 
 As soon as we rounded the point, coming in sight 
 of the forts, they commenced an incessant firing, at 
 the same time hoisting the American flag. So dense 
 was the smoke and so continuous the firing, that little 
 could be seen save a thick cloud of smoke, curling far 
 above and around the fort; few sounds were heard 
 but those of the deep-toned cannon, belching forth its 
 emblems of destruction. In about thirty minutes the 
 fort ceased, and we raised the Arabian ensign, return- 
 ing a salute of twenty-seven guns. Immediately after 
 our arrival, we were visited by several gentlemen 
 24 
 
278 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 from the shore, who gave us a very cordial reception. 
 Our decks were well stored with fruits, provisions, &c., 
 and there was a nearer resemblance to Fulton Market 
 than to a yankee man-of-war. The Sultan had sent 
 off hundreds of fowls, droves of cattle and sheep, &c., 
 all of which blending their croaking, bellowing, bleat- 
 ing and cackling, produced a jargon that might re- 
 mind one of the “ confusion of languages.’ 7 
 
 During the entire day we were surrounded with 
 boats, loaded with cakes, milk, butter, melons and 
 fruits, offered for sale. And here it is but just that I 
 should say something of the honesty of the Arabs, in 
 their dealings among themselves, and also with 
 strangers. When their articles were presented for 
 sale, the absence of money seemed no hindrance to 
 the purchase. When told that we wished for their 
 articles but had no money, they were quite willing to 
 adopt the “ credit system.” Dialogues like the fol- 
 lowing, frequently occurred. “You want?” Yes. 
 “You got no money?” None. “You pay by and 
 by, John?” Yes. “Take.” At their visit on the 
 following day, they would usually ask, “ You got no 
 money to-day, John?” No. “You want bread, 
 butter, fruit, milk, cheese? Take what you like.” 
 The inhabitants of civilized society might learn some 
 important lessons of humanity and honesty from this 
 class of Arabians. 
 
 Capt. California, commander of the Arabian navy, 
 is one of the handsomest men that I ever saw; he 
 speaks excellent English. At his visit on the 4th, he 
 brought some ten or fifteen divers with him. These 
 divers, after having prepared a split stick, and fasten- 
 ed it upon the nose, to prevent the admission of water, 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 279 
 
 would sink and remain about two minutes under the 
 vessel. They reported that the copper was nearly 
 off, and brought up some of the loose sheets, and 
 quantities of the sheathing, assuring us that there 
 were large holes, filled with weeds and sun-fish. 
 
 Capt. California’s son was with him, a lad of about 
 10 years of age ; he exhibited clearly a praiseworthy 
 sense of honor, so characteristic of the Arabians. He 
 had brought his gun on board for the purpose of hav- 
 ing it repaired ; he wore a cartridge-box, containing 
 twenty silver cases for powder, each case having a 
 high-wrought silver cover. In addition to this, he 
 wore an Arabian dirk, silver- mounted, very highly 
 burnished, and worth, at least, fifty dollars. Lieut. 
 Gordon proposed to fill his cases with powder in ex- 
 change for his dirk, for the purpose of testing his hon- 
 esty. To this he immediately assented, drawing his 
 dirk and presenting it. It was placed where he could 
 take it, should he choose to do so, but he seemed sat- 
 isfied with the exchange, notwithstanding the con- 
 trast of the respective values. It was then taken 
 from his presence, and placed in the ward-room ; of 
 this he seemed to take no notice. At last, finding 
 that he did not intend to regain his favorite weapon, 
 it was produced, as he was about to leave the ship, 
 and offered to him, but he refused to receive it. It 
 was urged upon him, but he firmly refused to accept 
 it, asserting that it had been bought and paid for, and 
 that it would not be right to accept it. Finally, find- 
 ing that all our efforts would prove ineffectual, his fa- 
 ther took it and replaced it in his belt ; at this his 
 eyes filled with tears, and raising his hand and look- 
 ing mournfully into his father’s face, he said, “ Allah 
 
280 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 knows that I don’t want it.” I could but think that 
 there are many boys even in the United States, who 
 should come within the reclaiming influence of our 
 civil, literary and religious institutions, who might 
 with much propriety emulate the example of this lad, 
 though surrounded with the gloom of barbarism, and 
 moral darkness of Mohammedanism. 
 
 During our stay, the young prince, son of the Sul- 
 tan, was married, on which occasion the officers were 
 invited to be present ; a salute of seventeen guns was 
 fired, which was responded to by the vessel in the 
 harbor, and by the fort. 
 
 Muscat is a small city, containing about 10,000 in- 
 habitants, situated at the head of Muscat Cove, and 
 is surrounded on all sides but that bordering on the 
 bay, by massive, craggy rocks, which rise from 800 to 
 1000 feet above the town. The streets are narrow, 
 and the buildings do not exhibit much taste in their 
 arrangement or ornament. The people are very clean- 
 ly in their persons and dress ; the merchants are gen- 
 tlemen of highly cultivated manners, and many of 
 them were excellent scholars. The art of penman- 
 ship seemed to have received an unusual degree of at- 
 tention ; some of them wrote the most beautiful hand 
 that I ever saw. 
 
 On the day following the wedding, the Sultan and 
 his son, together with Capt. California and some of 
 the principal men of the realm, came on board and 
 honored us with a visit. He is a tall, spare man, ap- 
 parently about 60 years of age. His dress was in 
 accordance with Arabian customs. He appeared in a 
 loose flowing gown, of black silk, with pantaloons of 
 white linen, cut after the Turkish style, a vest of yel- 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 281 
 
 low satin; he wore also tasty sandals of superior 
 workmanship, wrought with gold wire, and a neat 
 turban upon his head, in imitation of the Turks. He 
 addressed the officers with much politeness, though 
 not the kind ordinarily taught in the northern semi- 
 nary, where this branch is learned like arithmetic, 
 geography or the languages, but it was the graceful 
 politeness of simple nature, every movement and ex- 
 pression carrying with it the conviction that he felt 
 all the friendship, kindness and benevolence that he 
 expressed verbally. As he came on board we gave 
 him a salute, while the Arabian colors were waving 
 above him. He visited the various parts of the ship, 
 examined all matters of interest, and afterward par- 
 took of refreshment in the cabin, prepared for the oc- 
 casion. When he took leave of us, we gave an honor- 
 ary salute, which was seconded by the frigates and 
 forts. 
 
 On the next day we made preparations to sail. 
 Notwithstanding the shattered state of the ship, the 
 commander ventured an attempt to cross the sea of 
 Arabia; accordingly on the 9th, we unmoored, and 
 made ready for sea, after having concluded a com- 
 mercial treaty with the Arabian government. The 
 treaty secures a free trade between the two govern- 
 ments, for the term of one hundred years ; this act 
 promises much to the Arabian government, and may 
 be the means of restoring them to the high and im- 
 portant position which they once sustained in relation 
 to the neighboring nations of Asia and Africa. By a 
 consistent course of political economy, they may yet 
 regain their former strength and military prowess, as 
 24* 
 
282 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 well as their previous attainments in science and the 
 arts. 
 
 Our next place of destination was Bombay, in Hin- 
 dostan. One morning during our passage, about mid- 
 way between the two ports, probably 500 miles from 
 the nearest point of land, a large flock of land birds 
 visited the ship, such as owls, sparrows, black-birds 
 &c. ; they had been blown to sea, probably, by some 
 severe gale of wind, and in their fatigue, were induced 
 to alight wherever they could find a resting place. 
 They perched themselves upon the rigging and va- 
 rious parts of the ship, and were exceedingly tame ; 
 they descended among the “messes,” and it was with 
 some difficulty that they were kept out of the dishes. 
 They suffered themselves to be handled, would share 
 our “mess” with us, and expressed their gratitude 
 by singing happy strains, while seated on our hands, 
 head, or shoulders. Some of them prolonged their 
 stay with us for two or three days and then left, prob- 
 ably to perish at sea. 
 
 This occurrence developed some of the nobler char- 
 acteristics of the sailor. Though he has a rough ex- 
 terior, he has a heart keenly alive to the sufferings of 
 his fellows, and even of the brute creation. Not a 
 bird was injured, but were treated with great tender- 
 ness, and might have remained any length of time, a 
 welcome guest, and shared his simple fare. 
 
 The ^commodore’s cat, however, was not quite as 
 kind, but caught one of the number. She was not 
 permitted, by the more humane seamen, to retain her 
 ill-gotten prey, but was robbed of it as soon as she 
 could be secured. In the genuine spirit of tenderness 
 and sincerity, a weight was attached to the victim 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 283 
 
 and he was sunk deep in the sailor’s grave, where so 
 many lie entombed, whose bosoms were once warmed 
 by the same overflowing sympathy that dictated this 
 simple act of respect to a mere bird. 
 
 Not so with the cat. Severe but suppressed mur- 
 murings were heard at the time, but no violence was 
 offered. On the next morning diligent search was 
 made for poor “ tabitha,” but it was in vain. It was 
 conjectured that she had followed the murdered song- 
 ster, though not with the same ceremony and respect 
 that attended the former burial. The circumstance 
 may seem trivial to the reader, but it is introduced to 
 illustrate this important principle. 
 
 We arrived at Bombay after a delightful passage 
 of twenty-one days, where we found our consort, the 
 Enterprise. Our ship was immediately taken into 
 the dry-dock, there to undergo thorough repairs. 
 
 Bombay is the western capital of British India, and 
 contains about 220,000 inhabitants. The city is 
 strongly fortified, and is surrounded by three deep 
 ditches and the same number of strong, high walls, 
 which are mounted with heavy artillery. There are 
 many things in and about the city that would be ex- 
 ceedingly interesting to the attentive observer, though 
 he might not select it as a permanent residence. An 
 extensive plain lies in the rear of the city, which is 
 used as the parade ground of the English soldiery; 
 beyond this is a large town called the “ Suburbs.” 
 
 Bombay is one of several very populous cities of 
 Hindostan. In point of population, it ranks next to 
 China, and has been the theatre of many important 
 events in the history of Asia. It has long been celebra- 
 ted for its civilzation, and the richness of its articles of 
 
284 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 commerce. The soil is exceedingly fertile, and pro- 
 duces an abundance of sugar, cotton, indigo, opium 
 and rice, the last of which forms the principal article 
 of diet. In color, the people very much resemble the 
 Africans, but in features are more European ; they are 
 courteous and quite polished in their manners, and 
 display much taste in their works of art. 
 
 Yet with all of their comparative intellectual culture, 
 they are still accustomed to some of the most revolt- 
 ing practices of paganism. Even the burning of wid- 
 ows on the pyre of her husband, was practiced until 
 1830, when it was abolished by the British govern- 
 ment. Nor has the influence of resident Europeans, 
 now numbering about 50,000, been sufficient to radi- 
 cally change the popular feeling in reference to their 
 cruel customs. The most revolting one now remain- 
 ing, probably, is the self-torture consequent upon “ los- 
 ing caste.” They are divided into four castes or 
 classes ; these castes have certain rules by which they 
 are respectively governed, and are not allowed to min- 
 gle with those of another class. As a penalty for the 
 violation of any of these rules, the offender is spurned 
 from society as unworthy of existence among his for- 
 mer associates. These outcasts are called Pariahs , 
 and can be restored to the caste only by the most ex- 
 cruciating self-infliction. 
 
 While here I was shown one of these wretched vic- 
 tims of their degrading superstition. This individual 
 is known to travelers as the “ flower-pot-man,” and 
 is suffering the penalty of his disloyalty to his caste. 
 
 I found him in an old hovel, situated at the termina- 
 tion of a spacious arch which leads from the street to the 
 rear ; he was seated on a rude bench. His hair was 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 285 
 
 white as snow, hanging around his cheeks and neck 
 in long matted locks; his beard, which was twelve 
 inches or more in length, was made to turn upward 
 and adhere to his face, by white clay. His cheeks 
 were hollow, his cheek hone remarkably prominent, 
 and his eyes deeply sunken in their sockets ; his dress 
 consisted of a pair of tattered thin pants, that came 
 down a little below his knees, and a thin, dirty man- 
 tle thrown over his shoulders and partly wrapped 
 around his body. In his hand he held a flower-pot. 
 
 He had violated the principles of his religion, or in 
 some way displeased the priest, and had presented 
 himself before him for restoration, after having suf- 
 fered the penalty which the priest might choose to 
 impose. After mature deliberation it was decided 
 that the term of twenty-one years might be sufficient 
 time to expiate his crimes. Some terms have been 
 considerably longer than this, depending upon the 
 turpitude of the crime. He had already served fifteen 
 years of his penance. The flesh of the' arm had grad- 
 ually perished, until but little remained save bone and 
 withered muscle. His nails had grown to the length 
 of a foot or more, and had assumed an ill-formed, spi- 
 ral shape. It also sometimes occurs that the fleshy 
 parts of the fingers become elongated, giving to the 
 hand a very unnatural and revolting appearance. 
 
 The pot was made of willow, weighing about a 
 pound and a half, and contained’ three kinds of sacred 
 flowers, — the “rose,” two or three small stalks of the 
 “ marigold,” and a tuft of 11 ladies’ delight.” I re- 
 quested our guide to ask him how he had contrived to 
 sleep, and whether he had never let it fall. He in- 
 formed me that at first he was obliged to employ 
 
286 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 boys, provided with long reeds, loaded with pointed 
 metalic substances, to goad him whenever he slept so 
 soundly as to suffer his arm to be depressed. After a 
 short time, he was able to sleep and still retain the 
 position of his arm. During the first two or three 
 years, he felt much pain in that arm and side, which 
 gradually diminished, resolving itself into the sensa- 
 tion which would naturally be produced by piercing 
 those parts with needles; this slowly disappeared, 
 and for some years he had been entirely destitute of 
 pain, and even of sensation. It had been for some 
 time immovably fixed in one position. These devo- 
 tees are objects of charity, and not unfrequently 
 amass considerable fortunes. 
 
 To those who are unacquainted with the Hindoos, 
 this may seem too horrid to merit credence, but I can 
 assure such, that this is a mere trifle, when compared 
 with some of their schemes of torture. We know but 
 little of the sacrifice and devotion of heathenism and 
 false religion. ‘The Christian might well emulate their 
 adherence to their dogmas, and the cheerfulness with 
 which they voluntarily endure the most excruciating 
 tortures, for the vain purpose of appeasing the wrath 
 of dumb idols. 
 
 When we remember that millions of our fellow men 
 are suffering thousands of tortures, simply from a 
 want of a knowledge of divine things ; that they, by 
 nature, -are on an equality with those of the most fa- 
 vored climes; when we reflect also, that we owe all 
 our superiority to the Bible, how vaguely do we esti- 
 mate its value, and how little do we think of one of 
 its plainest injunctions, which says, — “Go ye into all 
 the world and preach the gospel to every creature ! ” 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 2S7 
 
 In the harbor of Bombay there is a remarkable isl- 
 and, called “ Elephanti.” which is regarded as one of 
 the 11 seven wonders of the world ; ” it contains a cave 
 which seems to have been cut out of solid stone. As 
 one enters the cave, directly in front of the opening is 
 the exact figure of an elephant of the usual size; there 
 are, also, several other animals, together with human 
 beings, all of which are cut from solid rock. Some of 
 these were intended to represent kings and queens, — 
 all beautifully sculptured, but have a very ancient ap- 
 pearance. We broke off some small pieces, such as 
 hands, feet, &c., from the more remote parts of the 
 cave, for preservation. At what period these were 
 wrought or by whom, must ever remain a matter of 
 speculation. 
 
 After a stay of some weeks at Bombay, — which 
 time was spent in making necessary repairs, — we 
 made preparations to sail ; other guns had been sub- 
 stituted for those lost on the coast of Arabia, by a loan 
 from the English Admiral, Sir Charles Macomber, 
 and we were about in readiness to buffet the dangers 
 of the raging ocean, or meet again a more ruthless foe. 
 While on the eve of our departure, we discovered a 
 vessel in the offing, coming into port ; as she approach- 
 ed, we saw Arabian colors flying, and did not sail 
 until after her arrival. In a short time a boat was 
 sent along side, in which we recognized some of our 
 Arabian friends, with whom we had formed so agree- 
 able an acquaintance at Muscat. From them we 
 learned that the Sultan had sent out a party of men, 
 immediately after our departure, in search of the guns, 
 anchors, cables, &c., which were sunk at the place of 
 disaster. They had succeeded in grappling them and 
 
288 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 the vessel was chartered to restore them to us. Our 
 borrowed ones were soon dismounted, and those that 
 had been our companions in trouble, and had lain in 
 a deep coral bed where unknown treasures have long 
 been entombed, were placed in their former stations, 
 where they soon gave but little evidence of having 
 been so long imbedded beneath the wave. My feeble 
 pen can not do justice to this noble-minded Sultan, in 
 consideration of his generosity toward us while in 
 distress. We could but mark the contrast between 
 our treatment while on the reef, by the wanderers of 
 the desert, and that of the Sultan at Muscat. 
 
 After leaving Bombay, we sailed down the eastern 
 coast of Hindostan, bound to Ceylon, thence through 
 the East Indies. This part of our cruise was not as 
 eventful as the preceding had been, but not without 
 interest. Nor indeed can it be, to the attentive ob- 
 server of creation’s wonders, who can appreciate the 
 wildly-grand, the magnificent and sublime. The 
 ocean presents these in their ever-varying forms. 
 The wild grows wilder, the sublime becomes awful, 
 the terrific quickly changes to more terrible and over- 
 whelming, as nature puts on her wilder aspects, or is 
 quietly lulled to rest, the beautiful softening in the 
 lovely, as the tempests cease their rude blasts, and 
 threatening clouds disappear. The monsters of the 
 deep are ever around, raising their huge sides above 
 the restless surface, regardless of these innovators of 
 their vast domain. 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 289 
 
 SAILOR INFLUENCE. 
 
 Among seamen, as in all classes of society, may.be 
 found a diversity of circumstances and characters. 
 While all possess some of the more striking charac- 
 teristics, the effects produced upon the inhabitants of 
 the uncivilized parts of the world are widely dissim- 
 ilar. The gloom of heathenism may be made more 
 visible and appalling by vicious seamen who are min- 
 gling with them as representatives of civilization, or a 
 gleam of light and hope may be radiated by the more 
 virtuous. The natives may be exasperated and prej- 
 udiced more and more against all innovators, or the 
 barriers may be removed and the influences of Chris- 
 tianity be disseminated, by an association and inter- 
 course with our less favored fellow men. The two 
 classes are already in the field, whose influences are, 
 and must be, antagonistic. The elevation of seamen 
 is among the cardinal means of pouring light into the 
 dark portions of the earth. 
 
 This may be more distinctly seen in intercourse 
 with the natives of the Lagoon Islands. They had 
 been visited by French whalemen, who had abused 
 their confidence, and trampled upon their rights. 
 Natural results followed ; they were incensed against 
 all foreigners, and had leagued themselves to murder 
 such as should visit them. 
 
 While engaged in the Expedition we had occasion 
 to visit these islands, and necessarily encountered 
 these difficulties. When we arrived off these isles, the 
 different vessels were stationed at given points, and 
 25 
 
290 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 commenced measuring base lines by means of guns 
 fired from each station in succession, noting the time 
 between the flash and report. The natives, hearing 
 our guns, came down to the beach and watched our 
 movements with apparent interest and concern. Hav- 
 ing finished our admeasurements, obtained the neces- 
 sary angles by the sextant, the boats were lowered 
 and we attempted to land ; the natives, however, for- 
 bade this, and by signs indicated their desire for our 
 departure. We continued to approach slowly, at the 
 same time throwing presents to them ; these were 
 thrown back to us, refusing to receive any thing from 
 us. Some of them threw stones into the water, very 
 much bespattering us, which we thought proper to 
 bear patiently. The fact that we did not retaliate, 
 seemed to convince them that we were intimidated, 
 and they commenced throwing stones into our boats, 
 mistaking our forbearance for fear. One of our num- 
 ber, who was injured by one of these stones, raised a 
 musket and discharged a quantity of mustard-seed 
 shot among them ; the distance was so great that it 
 simply produced a smarting sensation, without pene- 
 trating the surface. No sooner was the musket dis- 
 charged than the whole party began jumping in the 
 most ludicrous manner, talking, picking and rubbing 
 themselves, as if they had been suddenly attacked 
 with some annoying cutaneous disease. They moved 
 off in company up the beach, where they seated them- 
 selves and indulged in an unintelligible jargon. We 
 were soon after ordered on board, as we did not choose 
 to land unless it could be effected peaceably. It was 
 decided to visit another of the same group lying near, 
 which we did on our return to the ship. Our object 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 29J 
 
 was to reconcile them to us if possible. While we 
 were considering our adventure, one of our number 
 volunteered to visit the natives of the island to which 
 we were destined, singly, and negotiate conditions of 
 peace, as he was acquainted with their language, hav- 
 ing visited the island on former occasions. 
 
 These islands are of a coral formation, and as there 
 are many matters of interest, it may not be amiss, 
 briefly, to advert to them. Coral is the production of 
 a very minute animalcule ; though invisible of itself, 
 its constructure is of astonishing magnitude. It may 
 give the reader some vague idea of the vastness of this 
 little creature’s operations to say that we sounded, or 
 attempted to, within a few yards of the reef, sinking 
 the lead eleven hundred fathoms, ( 6600 feet ) but did 
 not find bottom ; these little invisibles had reared their 
 fabric to this surprising height, and how much below 
 that, formed the foundation, I am unable to determine. 
 This stupendous wall is about one half a mile in 
 thickness, is built in a circular form, the inside resem- 
 bling a huge chimney ; this has a diameter of some 
 eight or ten miles, while others are somewhat larger. 
 The land describes a circle, which forms around the 
 inner edge of the wall about one fourth of a mile, on 
 some of them, but much less on the major part of 
 them. At first you land on the coral that is submerg- 
 ed at all times for some distance in from the outer 
 edge ; then succeeds a part of the reef that is above 
 the surface during a portion of the time; afterward a 
 sand beach, then shrubs, trees, bearing various tropi- 
 cal fruits, then shrubs again as one approaches the 
 water’s edge of the lagoon in the centre. This lagoon 
 occupies the greater part of the space contained be- 
 
292 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 tween the visible portion of the coral as we approach 
 this singularly formed island, and sends up its waves 
 towards those that are rolling upon the beach from 
 the surrounding ocean. By this process substances 
 have been thrown up by opposite forces, forming a 
 perimeter of land, so that the island is surrounded by 
 water externally and internally. This stupendous 
 basin contains salt water, but whether in direct com- 
 munication with the ocean, can not be ascertained. 
 We were unable to find a bottom, though we sank 
 our lead some five or six hundred fathoms. Near the 
 inner shore of this lagoon, an abundance of the pearl 
 oyster is found, which are sought for the beautiful 
 pearls taken from them. 
 
 A rather novel incident occurred while we were on 
 this island, which it may not be inappropriate to my 
 design in delineating characters. As the man ap- 
 proached the shore, it was evident that the natives 
 did not wish for any intercourse. He had provided 
 himself with a variety of articles to serve as presents, 
 threw himself into the surge, and was carried, by one 
 of the rollers which are continually breaking on shore, 
 safely to the reef. As he reached the reef, he was in 
 the immediate vicinity of the natives, who began to 
 approach, making various signs by holding their 
 hands over their heads, and afterward bringing them 
 behind them. He attempted to communicate with 
 them, but was not understood, and retreated, assuring 
 us that they were hostile, and that it would be use- 
 less to attempt to make peace with them. I did not 
 like the idea of thus relinquishing our plan, and im- 
 mediately volunteered to make an effort myself. I 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 293 
 
 took a bag of old iron hoop which I had broken into 
 pieces of some two or three inches in length, knowing 
 that iron was of much value here ; as soon as I plung- 
 ed into the water, the natives commenced throwing 
 stones, but did me no injury, and I was soon standing 
 erect upon the island. I immediately approached 
 them ; they seemed satisfied that I was not afraid of 
 them, and began to repeat their signs. I knew not, 
 nor did I much care what, their gestures were intend- 
 ed for, but imitated their manoeuvres, meaning war 
 or peace, as they might choose to construe it. They 
 gazed at me a moment and then brought their hands 
 behind them, which I followed, at the same time 
 slowly advancing toward them. As they receded 
 before my advance, they came to a natural wall of 
 coral, situated about one fourth of a mile from the 
 beach, in which there was a small opening. This 
 wall extended along this side of the island, and in 
 front of the town, and was about three and a half feet 
 in height. At this place they seemed inclined to en- 
 ter into a parley with me, the chief placing the men, 
 some on one, and some on the other side of the pass, 
 behind the wall ; some were armed with bows and 
 arrows, stationed in the front of the opening, while 
 the chief posted himself at the pass. 
 
 He was an old grey-bearded man, and had a very 
 venerable appearance; he held his spear in his left 
 hand, while the right was presented toward the iron 
 which I held before him ; he seemed disinclined to 
 change his position, while I advanced, offering him 
 the iron. As soon as his finger came in contact with 
 it he suddenly withdrew it, as if severely burned by 
 25 * 
 
294 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 it. At length, after various attempts, he ventured to 
 receive it, tasting, smelling, and rubbing it, for the 
 purpose of judging of its quality. When he saw that 
 it was good iron, he seemed very much pleased, and 
 approaching me, he placed his right arm around my 
 neck, holding his spear in the other. Wishing to re- 
 ciprocate his affection, I placed my left arm around 
 his neck ; he commenced drawing me toward him un- 
 til our faces were nearly in contact; inferring that he 
 was about to kiss me, I prepared for such an event. 
 Not certainly knowing his intentions, I grasped my 
 sheath knife, knowing that if his embrace should 
 prove too cordial, I could easily disengage myself. 
 He then brought our noses in contact, rubbing his 
 three times across mine. After releasing me, he 
 danced about with much apparent happiness. But 
 the worst was not over ; the same ceremony was to be 
 performed with the entire party, who were generally 
 besmeared with cocoa-nut oil and charcoal, and I 
 found myself thoroughly bedaubed by their filthy 
 persons. 
 
 I afterward took the chief by the hand and led him 
 down toward the boat, but met the Commodore, with 
 all of the men save two left in each boat, who were 
 coming up to ascertain the result of our interview. 
 Afterward this ceremony was repeated, until our com- 
 pany, from the Commodore to the boys, effected a 
 reconciliation with these natives, at the close of which 
 we were nearly as black as the natives themselves. 
 They then escorted us up to their houses, assisted us 
 in collecting all the specimens in natural history that 
 could be found on the island. They gave us fish and 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 295 
 
 every thing that could convince us of their friendship, 
 and requested us to invite other white men to visit 
 them. We made trifling presents to the whole num- 
 ber, completly overcoming their prejudice against all 
 white men. From this is easily seen the importance 
 of having virtuous sailors, to go into all parts of the 
 world to meet and counteract the pernicious influ- 
 ences of too large a portion of our 2,000,000 of sea- 
 men, who are scattering the seeds of vice and licen- 
 tiousness in the dark portions of the earth. These 
 effects, to be fully appreciated, must be witnessed; 
 the intoxicated sailor should be traced as he mingles 
 with the benighted pagan, regardless of all the re- 
 straints of that Christianity under which he has been 
 nurtured, and which, to the mind of the pagan, he 
 represents. Such sad consequences can only be avert- 
 ed by counter efforts from the same Omnipresent 
 source; that as Jesus, the Lamb of God, assumed the 
 title and some of the characteristics of the lion (“ the 
 lion of the tribe of Judah,”) to be able to meet the 
 “ roaring lion that goeth about, seeking whom he 
 may devour.” so the sailor of Zion must meet those 
 in the service of Satan, and establish the superiority 
 of the kingdom of grace over that of the prince of 
 darkness. 
 
 Other unfavorable results, affecting seamen and the 
 natives of other climes, are produced by a custom 
 which prevails far too extensively. I refer to an un- 
 warranted sailing on the Sabbath. Perhaps no trans- 
 gression of equal magnitude is committed with so lit- 
 tle remorse of conscience, as the custom of sailing 
 from port on the Sabbath. The excuses which are 
 
296 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 urged to hush the voice of conscience, and to oppose 
 such as present scriptural objections to this course, 
 are wholly selfish, and consequently futile; such 
 practices must necessarily be a violation of the plain- 
 est requisitions of God, and must entail upon the 
 transgressor the penalties threatened against such dis- 
 regard of divine requirements. 
 
 By the way of illustration of natural consequences, 
 I insert a brief description of three attempts to get un- 
 der way during a voyage of eight months. Some 
 may have sailed without any regard to these obliga- 
 tions, and apparently may have been successful, yet 
 there may generally have been a connection between 
 disasters and an improper time of sailing. I record 
 the events just as they transpired, and leave the 
 reader to make his own conclusions. The incidents 
 to which I refer, occurred on board the bark South- 
 erner of Boston. At the commencement of these sin- 
 gular providences, we were lying at Lisbon. 
 
 At twelve o’clock on Saturday night, we were call- 
 ed to get under way. This was displeasing to myself 
 and to many on board. It was painful to us to com- 
 mence the holy Sabbath under such circumstances, 
 and we could but feel that it was not only displeasing 
 to God, but that nothing was really gained in a tem- 
 poral view. A train of circumstances followed each 
 other in quick succession, which exemplified the fu- 
 tility of^an attempt to wholly disregard the establish- 
 ed laws of the Creator. 
 
 The windlass was manned and we began to heave 
 up our anchor just as the Sabbath commenced, appa- 
 rently to devote to secular purposes every moment of 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 297 
 
 a day designed for more sacred employments ; when 
 it was within about six fathoms of the surface, the 
 chain “ surged” upon the windlass and sank again 
 to the botton and became entangled with the cable of 
 a Portuguese brig, lying near us. With the greatest 
 difficulty, after nearly an hour of incessant effort, we 
 succeeded in getting the anchor above the water, and 
 at about 4 o’clock, A. M., we had it in its proper place, 
 — having labored four hours with all our strength to 
 perform what might ordinarily have been accomplish- 
 ed in thirty minutes. Having “ hove short,” we set 
 the top sails and returned to the windlass, ready to 
 get the anchor, but scarcely was it in motion, before 
 the chain again surged, and sixty fathoms of cable 
 ran out like lightning. At 10 o’clock of the same 
 day we got under way, hut the wind soon died away 
 and we were unable to proceed. We drifted about 
 five miles, when we again anchored, where we lay 
 until the following morning. On the next morning 
 we again attempted to sail, but it soon commenced to 
 rain rapidly, while the deep-toned thunder was heard 
 above and around us, so that our departure was con- 
 siderably delayed. During the forenoon the word 
 “ up anchor” was given, but before the order could 
 be obeyed, we were reminded of the danger which 
 might attend it ; a dense black cloud was seen rolling 
 in from the sea with a threatening aspect ; we were 
 satisfied that it would be madness to leave our moor- 
 ings before the squall should have passed, and imme- 
 diately made preparations to meet its fury. I never 
 before saw a storm advance in such awful majesty ; 
 the forked lightning glared in startling wildness as it 
 
298 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 leaped, unshackled, from cloud to cloud, now sending 
 a broad, bold sheet of livid tire across the blackening 
 vault of heaven, rendering the succeeding blackness 
 far more visible; now shooting uproar d, as cloud over- 
 hung cloud : and now dashing franticly to the earth, 
 leaving a pale, quivering light behind, to mark its zig- 
 zag course. The scene was awfully grand ; the sub- 
 lime was deepened into the terrible, and the quickly 
 succeeding flashes were as if element warred with 
 element, and contending foemen rushed to the deadly 
 conflict. The ship shook like the tempest-beaten leaf, 
 as the deafening thunder rolled and muttered around 
 us, and spoke in tones that could not easily be mis- 
 understood. 
 
 The mate was standing on the quarter deck as the 
 storm approached, leaning upon the iron railing, when 
 he received a violent electric shock, which left his 
 right arm strengthless. The storm now burst upon 
 us in all its fury, and the waters foamed and dashed 
 on every side of us. A shower of huge hail stones 
 was dashed upon the deck in the strength of the tem- 
 pest, while the ceaseless howlings of the wind through 
 the shrouds and spars, added to the terrors of the 
 scene. We rode in safety through this tempest, how- 
 ever, without any very serious incidents. 
 
 When the storm was over, we made ready to set 
 sail ; at this time two brigs, whose masters could not 
 consent to sail on the Sabbath, now came down from 
 the city, and passing us, went out without any diffi- 
 culty. Just as we had nearly reached the bar at the 
 mouth of the Tagus, the wind left us and the flood 
 tide began to set in, and our only alternative was to 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 299 
 
 go back to our anchorage in the harbor, to anchor 
 until the wind and tide should again favor us. We 
 were here at anchor about 12 o’clock, within one mile 
 from the place that we had left on the preceding 
 morning. We once more weighed anchor with Jhe 
 utmost difficulty, while no one could account for such 
 a series of disasters, though all seemed satisfied that 
 there was something peculiarly mysterious. As the 
 anchor arose to the surface it was ascertained that 
 it had become attached to a broken one, which had 
 been lost or abandoned previously. After excessive 
 toil, we succeeded in getting all things in readiness, 
 and at sunset we sailed out, bound to sea. 
 
 On the 1st of November, the ship came to an an- 
 chor at the quarantine ground, in the bay of Rio Jan- 
 eiro ; our arrival was on Saturday, and we had hoped 
 that the incidents at Lisbon might prove effectual ; 
 that the lesson there learned, might prevent our cap- 
 tain from making a second attempt to violate the 
 sanctity of the Sabbath. Yet, early on Sabbath 
 morning, as on the former occasion, we were called 
 from our slumbers, to get under way. I could but 
 feel surprised and grieved, that the captain would be 
 so utterly reckless in this matter. I at that time re- 
 marked to the crew, that in my opinion God would 
 punish him for his impiety, previous to the expiration 
 of the voyage. We got under way without the least 
 trouble at this time, and ran up to the other shipping. 
 The harbor master came along side and gave us di- 
 rections where to anchor. In getting to our anchor- 
 age we were obliged to pass between several other 
 vessels. While passing some of the last, the captain 
 
300 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 was giving his orders with an air of much self-confi- 
 dence, apparently cherishing the idea that he was 
 able to contend successfully with his God, and trample 
 upon his laws with impunity. He seemed very much 
 inclined to hazard the consequences, but a “ haughty 
 spirit goeth before a fall.” While he was exhibiting 
 his seamanship, and working his vessel with much 
 skill among the other shipping, the end of our main 
 yard came in contact with the fore-top-gallant stay of 
 the beautiful bark Daniel Webster, of Boston, carry- 
 ing away her fore and main-top-gallant masts, beside 
 doing other very serious damage. This misfortune 
 was somewhat enhanced by the circumstance that the 
 injuries could be repaired in this place, only with 
 much difficulty. 
 
 We remained here for some few weeks, and after 
 completing our arrangements, we were again destined 
 to witness the exemplification of the relations of trans- 
 gression and natural results. On the first Sabbath in 
 December, the captain made his third attempt to des- 
 ecrate the day by leaving port unnecessarily. Our 
 work was accomplished in season to have left some 
 time previous. A portion of the preceding day was 
 spent in scenes of amusements, and it could but be 
 inferred that this day was deliberately selected, but 
 for what purpose I leave the reader to form his own 
 opinions. The order was given to get under way, 
 but this was instantly prevented by a most singular 
 circumstance; no sooner was the order given to “man 
 the windlass,” than the captain was suddenly sur- 
 prised by a violent attack, the cause of which could 
 not be satisfactorily accounted for. A boat was sent 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 301 
 
 to the shore with all despatch, to obtain a physician. 
 On his arrival, he was unable to divine this attack, 
 or, indeed, to decide in regard to its nature. Its se- 
 verity, however, did not long continue, yet before we 
 were able to leave, a strong easterly wind commenced 1 
 blowing, which afterward prevented our departure.. 
 In consequence of this, we were detained here until 
 the 12th of the month, anxiously waiting for an op- 
 portunity to escape from a place which seemed almost 
 identified with disaster. 
 
 After the change of the wind, we made ready to 
 leave the harbor. . This occasion was fraught with 
 incidents of a most thrilling nature. Judgment and 
 mercy were most singularly blended, and while we 
 were filled with awe and almost overwhelmed with 
 our peculiarly hazardous situation, we could but rec- 
 ognize the merciful hand of Him who “ commandeth 
 and raiseth the stormy winds, and lifteth up the waves 
 thereof ; — who maketh the storm a calm, so that the 
 waves thereof are still.” Having waited for a con- 
 siderable time for the officer to bring the countersign, 
 without which no ship could pass Santa Cruz, the 
 captain decided to go on shore in quest of him, as he 
 was anxious to improve the ebb tide and land breeze, 
 which blows in this place during only four hours in 
 the morning. After our arrival at Fort Glorio, we 
 ascertained that the officer had gone among the ship- 
 ping, and it was not until we had followed him from 
 ship to ship, that we at last met him along side of our 
 own vessel. He arrived about 7 o’clock, A. M., after 
 which we weighed our anchor preparatory to the wel- 
 come departure. Before we had made any considera- 
 26 
 
302 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 ble progress the wind died away, and we drifted for 
 about one half mile in this fine harbor. As we passed 
 along, we saw that we were in danger of coming in 
 contact with a brig which was anchored near us. 
 Our only means of avoiding this collision was to an- 
 chor again, as the ship was now wholly unmanagea- 
 ble. At this time the Josephine, of New York, swept 
 swiftly by, borne along by the current, and was 
 carried by several vessels, toward the Sugar-Loaf, a 
 huge rock that stands at the entrance of the bay, on 
 the southern shore. As she passed along, a favoring 
 wind gradually sprang up, while she and several 
 other vessels which had remained with us windbound, 
 passed out of the harbor with a fine breeze, leaving 
 us behind. 
 
 About 10 o’clock, we again weighed anchor and 
 made an attempt to follow them. At the place where 
 we lay there was not sufficient wind to fill the sails, 
 in consequence of high eminences which intercepted 
 the land-breeze which was then blowing briskly with- 
 in one-fourth of a mile of us. A boat, well manned, 
 had already been ordered out to tow us along, but 
 they were not able to counteract the strength of the 
 current; we were carried along rapidly, notwithstand- 
 ing all efforts to give the ship a different direction. 
 We were fearfully nearing a group of rocks, upon 
 which the Brazilians had erected a strong fortifica- 
 tion, known as “ Square Fort,” from the peculiarity 
 of its form. The Sugar-Loaf was towering high 
 above the clouds, and from the peculiarity of our po- 
 sition, it was impossible to have a current of wind 
 which could serve us at this important juncture. 
 
O-F SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 303 
 
 There were, indeed, occasional gusts, sweeping down 
 the sides of the mountain, fitful in their occurrence 
 and irregular in their direction, while the current, 
 which was rushing with much force between the 
 rock and land, was rapidly sweeping us on toward 
 the rocks. The officers and men were whirling' the 
 yards to catch every breath of air that might occa- 
 sionally favor us in our critical position. Yet, with 
 all the efforts of those on board, together with the 
 most vigorous efforts of the oarsmen, we were still 
 drifting on to apparent destruction. The boat was 
 now ordered along side, and we anchored as soon as 
 possible, but here again we failed ; the ship continued 
 to drag her anchor among the rocks, while the cable 
 was “ veered away,” as long as a fathom remained. 
 She at last swung around to the anchor, and her stem 
 was not twenty-five feet from the rocks ! At this 
 time, very fortunately for us, and as it might seem, 
 providentially, the steamer Brazil ia was passing us, 
 on her return from Montevideo ; the captain took his 
 trumpet and hailed her, requesting her commander to 
 come to our rescue, but with an utter disregard of our 
 perilous situation — unlike the majority of command- 
 ers — he refused, and directed us to a government boat 
 that had just passed us. That boat, however, had 
 already seen our distress, and had put about for the 
 purpose of coming to our relief. The officers at the 
 fort were anxiously watching us, and when they saw 
 the Brazilia passing by without rendering necessary 
 assistance, the stern voice of the commander thunder- 
 ed through a huge trumpet, repeating the request of 
 Capt. Hallet, but this was also disregarded. We 
 
304 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 were still drifting fearfully along toward these shelv- 
 ing, craggy rocks, and a heavy sea was rolling in with 
 tremendous force, while that loud, monotonous and 
 dismal roar with which every sailor is acquainted, 
 who has been where the surf breaks on an iron-bound 
 shore, and which has been the sad requiem of many a 
 sailor, was deepening the gloom and anxiety which 
 our situation naturally produced. As the sea retired, 
 we could distinctly see the sharp, ragged shelf of 
 rocks, projecting from the main body of the ledge, 
 against which the sea was dashing and foaming furi- 
 ously, sending up a thick, humid spray, and against 
 which, in all human probability, we were to be dashed. 
 
 The officers and soldiers of the fort had seen the 
 crash of many a noble vessel in the same spot ; had 
 seen plank part from plank, massive cordage rent 
 asunder like the frail spider’s web ; the ship disman- 
 tled, crushed as a thing of naught, and perchance, the 
 last struggles of ill-fated crews, as they contended 
 against the might of overwhelming waves. As they 
 saw the noble ship floating on to inevitable destruc- 
 tion, they seemed to appreciate our feelings and sym- 
 pathize with us while in our distress. 
 
 No sooner did the commander see his orders disre- 
 garded, than he stepped from the embrasure and a 
 stream of smoke and flame burst from a piece of 
 heavy artillery, while the deep-toned thunderings 
 came booming over the waters, a signal that could 
 not be misinterpreted. It had a magical effect upon 
 the seamen ; the wheels stopped instantly, and she 
 returned to us with all possible speed. Another mo- 
 ment, and the standard of Brazil fell “ a’ half mast,” 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 305 
 
 another gun thundered from the port, and the news 
 of a ship in distress flew with that sound in every 
 part of the harbor. Fort Gloria, a fortification that 
 stands on the same side with the city, passed the sig- 
 nal by the discharge of artillery, and, “ half masted” 
 her colors, while fort Santa Cruz hurried along the 
 mandate by a similar course. This was the work of 
 a moment, but in that time the ship had approached so 
 near the rock that she could swing to the current no 
 more. I felt that it was a time that the sailor must 
 act the man. We had done all that we could do, 
 and much alarm was manifested on board. The 
 mate was very much excited and called to the cap- 
 tain to observe the rapid progress which he supposed 
 the ship was making toward the rocks. I saw the 
 tendency of such remarks to disconcert the entire 
 crew, and remonstrated with him, assuring him that 
 in my opinion he was mistaken in reference to our 
 progress, and spoke encouragingly of our rescue. 
 By this time a boat from the steamer was under our 
 bows, and I passed a hawser into it ; she hurried back 
 to the boat, and in one half minute the steamer was 
 under, way. At the same moment, a boat filled with 
 men from the government boat, came along side, and 
 assisted in manning the windlass, and if ever I sang 
 u yeo heave ho ” at the top of my voice, it was at this 
 moment. The steamer soon drew the hawser taught, 
 and our ship, which had been acquiring such a fear- 
 ful proximity to that disastrous spot, was moving 
 slowly away, and in fifteen minutes we were riding 
 safely at anchor, one mile from the scene of danger. 
 The colors were brought again to the mast head, an- 
 26 * 
 
306 
 
 lights and shadows 
 
 nouncing to thousands of anxious spectators, that the 
 ship was safe. The sullen roar of the surf had died 
 gradually away, and we were now permitted to in- 
 dulge in gratitude for our almost miraculous deliver- 
 ance. 
 
 At the time that the boat took us in tow, we were 
 only about ten feet from the rock, and the mighty 
 swelling of the waves was lifting us some six or 
 eight feet, and had we struck a projection, we must 
 have been dashed in pieces, and sunk to that deep 
 bed where so many had been plunged in the hour of 
 extremity. The ship was loaded very deep, and but 
 a few moments could have elapsed after the first con- 
 cussion, before she would have sunk, and the circling 
 waves of the accompanying vortex would have closed 
 sadly over us, and another crew would have been 
 carried by the strength of the current among those 
 fearful rocks, which are as a mighty monument of the 
 multitude who sleep beneath those troubled waters. 
 
 We lay at anchor until the next morning, at which 
 time we succeeded in getting out, after an unnecessary 
 detention of about two weeks, and a wonderful escape 
 from a watery grave. 
 
 I am not disposed to indulge in any thing like su- 
 perstition in reference to ‘this eventful voyage, but 
 simply give the facts as they occurred. I know that 
 it is often affirmed that seamen are inclined to a senti- 
 ment of marvelousness, which predisposes them to a 
 firm belief in supernatural agencies. I will admit that 
 this may be true to some extent ; probably the nature 
 of the profession may tend to the production of such 
 a peculiarity. These, above all other men, “ see God’s 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 307 
 
 wonders in the deep,” and are naturally more impress- 
 ed with his more immediate agency in the affairs of 
 men. Disclaiming all “ heathen notions,” I can but 
 adopt the language of a commander on a similar oc- 
 casion after the wreck of his vessel, and “believe 
 that there was a connection between the result, and 
 sailing on the Sabbath.” He who has said “ Remem- 
 ber the Sabbath day to keep it holy” and affixed pen- 
 alties to all transgression, will not be unmindful of 
 such flagrant disregard of his righteous requirements. 
 He who commanded the Israelite to be put to death, 
 who had offended his Maker by “ picking sticks on 
 the Sabbath day;” he who followed the offending 
 Egyptians and engulfed them in the Red Sea, of 
 whom it was said, “he hath triumphed gloriously; 
 the horse and his rider hath he thrown into the sea,” 
 will not now “let the wicked go unpunished,” though 
 thousands of years may have passed away since the 
 command was issued, and the summary punishment 
 was inflicted. 
 
 Again, — to say nothing of its relations to the great 
 law of Eternal justice, — it has other important bear- 
 ings, to which I will briefly advert. From the es- 
 tablished relation of things, and from the example of 
 nature’s great Architect, there is ample evidence that 
 periodic rest is designed for “ man and beast.” In- 
 deed, were inspiration silent upon this point, we 
 might learn from our own constitutions, that such an 
 arrangement is absolutely necessary. This privilege, 
 landsmen claim, not as a moral right alone, but as a 
 natural right. Indeed, all experiments which have 
 related only to secular economy, have established the 
 propriety of the divine command. 
 
308 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 Seamen, as a class, labor a much greater proportion 
 of the time than the great mass of men, and for a 
 compensation widely disproportioned to the amount 
 of labor performed, and the hazards endured. It has 
 been justly remarked that “ There are no Sabbaths or 
 nights on the ocean.” The sailor has no time in 
 which he can feel perfectly exempt from care and toil. 
 This often follows from the nature of his employ- 
 ment ; while at sea, he is liable at any moment to be 
 called to the post of duty, though exhausted nature 
 may require rest. In the gale, the efforts of all on 
 board are requisite. All necessary assistance, under 
 such circumstances, the sailor renders cheerfully. 
 The safety of human life, and the faithful discharge 
 of the obligation entrusted to him, require such a sac- 
 rifice at his hands. 
 
 To this necessary relation of things, is attributable, 
 probably, the premature death of a large portion of 
 seamen. A careful investigation of facts has resulted 
 in the conclusion, that in no branch of business is 
 there so great a mortality as in this, — not even in the 
 army. Nor is this referable alone to losses by ship- 
 wreck, when hundreds sink into one common grave. 
 However great this may be, it forms but an inconsid- 
 erable item in the great result. Excessive and long- 
 continued labor, exposure to the ever- varying vicissi- 
 tudes of climate, with various other improprieties, are 
 the active agents of this sad destruction. It is a 
 pleasing consideration that some of these evils are re- 
 moved by the genius of reform, which is effecting the 
 more prominent enterprises of the day. It can not 
 be doubted but that the incipient stages of malignant 
 
309 
 
 OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 disease are seen in, and are traceable to improperly con- 
 structed forecastles. Many of them, in former times 
 — and too many still exist — were dark, damp and 
 confined, in which poisonous exhalations could escape 
 only with much difficulty, but remained to be inhaled 
 by the large number who are crowded into them, un- 
 til insinuating diseases are immovably fixed. Were 
 it not for the comparative exemption of the luxuries 
 of more fashionable life, and their active habits, &c., 
 probably a far greater number would fall early vic- 
 tims to these imprudences. 
 
 While, therefore, there are so many active agencies 
 that are calculated in their nature to make sad inroads 
 into the constitution, and people that spacious recep- 
 tacle of ocean’s sons, it is lamentable that men should 
 conspire to increase unnecessarily these causes of un- 
 timely dissolution, by wresting unjustly a portion of 
 time that inalienably belongs to every freeman. 
 
 It is not contended that a vessel should never sail 
 on the Sabbath ; this would be impracticable. It is 
 against leaving port designedly on that day, that these 
 remarks are urged. All that is asked, is, that the 
 customs by which seamen are governed should corres- 
 pond to those of landsmen; in other words, that men 
 shall have but one code of morality, whether on the 
 ocean or on shore. No class of men, ordinarily, select 
 the Sabbath as an appropriate day to commence a 
 journey, or engage in any important enterprise upon 
 the land, yet those who would shrink in horror from 
 such a palpable outrage, do not hesitate to commence 
 the most hazardous enterprises by sailing on this 
 day, professedly dear to them while associated with 3 
 
310 
 
 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS 
 
 and exposed to the gaze of their fellows. This is 
 altogether irreconcilable with consistency of character. 
 
 While in mid ocean, there can be no doubt, proba- 
 bly, of the propriety of continuing the voyage. It is 
 doubtful whether there could be any material diminu- 
 tion of labor, should the attempt be made. They 
 have simply to be wafted on, by the favoring breezes 
 of heaven, unattended by the ordinary labors of leav- 
 ing or arriving at port. During the longer voyages, 
 which must necessarily require several Sabbaths, there 
 may not, indeed, be the necessity for additional sea- 
 sons of rest; such voyages are not usually attended 
 with any considerable amount of fatigue in the dis- 
 charge of the ordinary duties on ship-board. 
 
 It is not my wish to produce a spirit of insubordi- 
 nation, or even that of dissatisfaction, only so far as 
 good will result from it, among those who have se- 
 lected a marine life, yet a reform is really demanded. 
 The spirit of the age in which we live requires it. 
 Reform is the watch- word, and society must feel its 
 influence to its remotest limit. Men are asserting 
 their manhood , and while the genius of true liberty 
 survives, individual aggression can not long survive. 
 The power of popular feeling will be felt, and ship 
 owners and masters will be obliged to grant to sea- 
 men some of the privileges which they claim for 
 themselves. More especially will this be true, when 
 the unjust requisition conflicts with the claims of con- 
 science. Enlightened men will not long submit to 
 such tyrannical injustice. As the great mass becomes 
 more and more acquainted with the grievances of 
 seamen ; more and more interested in their welfare, a 
 
OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 311 
 
 radical change must be effected. Encouraged by 
 popular sympathy the sailer can assert his natural 
 right, and such proceedings, though sanctioned by 
 those occupying important positions in society, must 
 soon become comparatively rare. 
 
 When seamen shall feel their relative importance 
 in the great operations of the country, and indeed of 
 the world, when they shall recover in a measure from 
 the effects of their former degradation, it will be clear- 
 ly seen that there are freemen alike in the forecastle 
 and the cabin, each having their appropriate duties 
 and spheres of action. 
 
 Indeed, this is the only healthful feeling that can 
 exist. The interests of the two great classes, — officers 
 and seamen, — are identified, and when the harmony of 
 this relation is marred, disastrous consequences im- 
 mediately follow. Yet when this friendly relation 
 can not exist without a sacrifice of principle ; when 
 necessary discipline is attained, or power ensured only 
 be a degradation of the governed; when his rights as 
 a social and accountable being are wrested from him, 
 a recourse to the only alternative may be justifiable. 
 The association of 2,000,000 of seamen, inspired by a 
 love of republicanism, enlightened, and acting in har- 
 monious concert, may effect a revolution which shall 
 distinctly mark the age in which it occurs, as an era 
 in the history of the marine enterprise. 
 
 The indications of the present age are exceedingly 
 cheering in this respect. The first dawnings of a 
 brighter day for the sons of the ocean are already 
 visible, and we dare predict, that the time is not far 
 distant, when some of their fondly-cherished hopes 
 
312 LIGHTS AND SHADOWS OF SAILOR LIFE. 
 
 will be realized ; when the sacred endearments of so- 
 cial life, when family ties will not be riven ; when the 
 exercises of the sanctuary will not be abridged for the 
 purpose of engaging in the pressing duties of the de- 
 parture, and exchanging the melody of songs of praise 
 for the boisterous confusion and hilarity of the ship. 
 
 In this change there will necessarily be less of the 
 compulsory features, less apparent necessity to be re- 
 moved from the more endeared relations of life, — those 
 influences which soften the asperities of our nature 
 and make men wiser and happier ; less of the feeling 
 of dependence and degradation which attends one 
 when he feels that he must implicitly obey the will 
 of another, and less of the recklessness and vice 
 which materially influences such as feel that they 
 have but little to lose, and can aspire to nothing be- 
 yond present attainments. 
 
REFLECTIONS, 
 
 THE MURDERS AT MALOLO. 
 
 Various reports have been circulated through the 
 community, relative to the causes which led to this 
 most painfully afflictive event, and I feel myself 
 called upon as an act of justice to the gallant dead, to 
 give the sad details, and leave a candid community 
 to make candid inferences. I am still more impressed 
 with a sense of duty in this matter, since some im- 
 putations have been urged, perhaps by evil disposed 
 persons, in reference to the official character of Mr. 
 Underwood. 
 
 Lieut. J. A. Underwood was a citizen of Pawtucket, 
 Mass. ; his parents and family connections rank with 
 the first society of the state. At an early period in 
 life, he was distinguished for a brilliancy of intellect, 
 a generosity and manliness of character, combined 
 with a high sense of honor, which won the respect of y 
 and endeared him to, all with whom he was associat- 
 ed. He entered the navy when he had arrived at 
 manhood, and distinguished himself there by his gen- 
 tlemanly deportment ; the rapidity with which he ac- 
 27 
 
314 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 quired a knowledge of his profession, together with 
 his good sense and coolness in the various emergencies 
 incident upon the life of the sailor, gave him the con- 
 fidence of those around him, as well as of the Hon. 
 D. Webster, and others of his friends, who were in- 
 strumental in securing his appointment. In 1838 he 
 was married to the beautiful and accomplished daugh- 
 ter of Dr. J. E. Stevens of Boston, and left the object 
 of his affections in a few days after his union, to par- 
 ticipate in the eventful incidents of this cruise, which 
 to him proved to be his last, long voyage. At this 
 time he ranked as passed midshipman ; early in the 
 cruise he was promoted to that of lieutenant, and was 
 zealous, active and efficient in that capacity, and his 
 services were very valuable in the various depart- 
 ments of scientific research. 
 
 I have penned this obituary notice of him, not so 
 much as a memoir, but for the purpose of introducing 
 him to the public as he was, and by the light of his 
 own character, to eradicate imputations that may have 
 gained some credence in the community. 
 
 We left the ship, then lying at Sandal-Wood Bay, 
 on the 16th of July, 1840, with six days’ provisions 
 in the boat, with orders to join the brig and schooner 
 at Malolo, on the 22d, three boats in company, — the 
 Leopard, under Lieut. Underwood, the launch of the 
 Peacock, Lieut. George F. Emmons, and the 2d cut- 
 ter of the Vincennes, Lieut. Alden. On the evening 
 of the 22d, the boats of the Vincennes arrived at the 
 island ; the brig and schooner were not in sight at that 
 time. We landed at the Island of Great Malolo, called 
 by them, Malolo Laib — ascended some of the hills, to 
 Ipok for the vessels. At noon we finished our stock 
 
REFLECTIONS. 
 
 315 
 
 of provisions, and were obliged to retire that night sup- 
 perless. On the morning of the eventful 24th, we 
 were joined by Lieut. Emmons, from whom we had 
 been separated three days, who was also without pro- 
 visions. It was thought advisable to venture up to 
 the town for provisions, though we regarded it as haz- 
 ardous; it devolved upon Lieut. U. and his crew to 
 perform this perilous duty, as his boat was the small- 
 est. That morning Mr. U. and myself procured the 
 hostage, knowing that while we retained him there 
 could be no danger. When we succeeded in getting 
 off the reef, we left the hostage in the charge of two 
 seamen, in whose care he was perfectly safe. We 
 then landed with a sufficient force to have repulsed 
 the armies of the entire island, had we obeyed the or- 
 ders of our officers. We numbered eleven men on 
 shore, armed with four rifles and three pistols, at the 
 time of the attack. Here the reader may see the true 
 cause of the disastrous events which have made many, 
 many a heart to bleed from wounds which time can 
 never fully heal. 
 
 Some of the prominent causes of the disaster were, — 
 First, the want of provisions, which rendered it neces- 
 sary that we should go on shore : — Secondly, the over- 
 sight of Mr. Alden, in permitting the hostage to escape 
 from his boat, after he had taken him from those with 
 whom Mr. Underwood had entrusted him ; — and Last- 
 ly, the want of judgment and presence of mind on the 
 part of some of the men who were on shore ; this is at- 
 tributable to the suddenness of the attack, and the vast 
 superiority in point of numbers. Mr. Underwood’s first 
 order was, u Keep together men, we can fight our way 
 to the boat.” Had this order been obeyed, we might 
 
316 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 have repulsed them until the boats could have come 
 to our rescue. 
 
 There was one other circumstance which had much 
 to do with this sad adventure; I refer to the fact that 
 we had not a sufficient number of weapons to furnish 
 all of our men. When we left the ship, we had a 
 rifle, a cutlass and a pistol each, but the last time that 
 we were with the Brig Porpoise, the cutlases, pistols, 
 and more than half of the rifles were taken from the 
 boat. By whose order, or for what purpose this was 
 done, I am not prepared to say. I remonstrated by 
 every argument that I could urge against it, and I 
 well recollect that it was repugnant to the wishes and 
 feelings of Mr. Underwood; I remember, however, 
 that he said it was the order, because they were get- 
 ting rusty in the boat. The men that had no weap- 
 ons started for the boat first, and this had its influence 
 upon those who were supplied. John Dunnock and 
 John McKean, were the only men beside the officers 
 and myself, who fired, and neither of those attempted 
 to reload. I observed William J. Lester, a Virginian 
 who carried the box of trade, in an encounter with 
 some of the natives, fighting them as best he could, as 
 he was without weapons. I was knocked down, an(J 
 as I looked for him when I arose, he had disappeared ; 
 whether he had escaped, or had been slain, I could 
 not then determine, but afterward learned that he sue-* 
 eeeded in reaching the boat. 
 
 These are the facts relative to the murder of the 
 officers, as I learned them from sad experience. Here 
 I leave the subject so far as Mr. Underwood is con- 
 cerned, and ask the reader to make his own infer- 
 ences. It was an event in which I felt a deep inter- 
 
REFLECTIONS. 
 
 317 
 
 est, and shared largely in its perils. I felt, in the loss 
 of Mr. Underwood, that I had lost a most valuable 
 friend, and one for whom I felt all the strength of at- 
 tachment that a sailor can feel, and while I regret 
 that the tongue of slander or “ green-eyed” envy 
 should assail the reputation of a friend, it gives me 
 pleasure to clearly disprove all that has been urged 
 against an officer, whose real merits the nation will 
 never be able to appreciate. 
 
 Mr. Henry was an officer of much merit, and was 
 esteemed in the squadron ; he possessed a greater share 
 of the esteem of the crews than any other midship- 
 man. In addition to personal beauty, he was possess- 
 ed of an amiability of disposition and gentlemanly 
 carriage, which made him a peculiar favorite, for the 
 sailor always loves the gentleman. Nature had en- 
 dowed him with the necessary qualifications for an 
 officer, and had his life been spared, in my estimation, 
 he would have been one of the brightest ornaments in 
 the American navy. What an exemplification of the 
 truthfulness of the remark of the poet, that “ Death 
 loves a shining mark ! 55 
 
 The sentiments which I entertained for Mr. Henry 
 are contained in the following stanzas, which were 
 written while I was recovering from my wounds, and 
 presented to the Commodore. I insert them, not as a 
 specimen of poetry, but as a testimony to the talents 
 and worth of the young officer. “ He was the only 
 son of his mother, and she was a widow,” — a sister 
 of Commodore Wilkes : his death was a deep affliction 
 to his mother, who could be sustained under her afflic- 
 tions only by Divine grace. 
 
 27 * 
 
318 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 He went to the home where his kind mother dwelt, 
 
 To tell her the squadron was ready to sail, 
 
 And merry the heart of the young sailor felt, 
 
 For bright was the morning and fair was the gale. 
 
 In vain were his efforts her tears to restrain, 
 
 By reciting the hopes that inspired him with joy, 
 
 For she secretly felt, — 0 how keen was the pain, — 
 That this was the last she would see of her boy. 
 
 The hand of his mother he grasped in his own, 
 
 And bade her “ farewell” as he rose to depart; 
 
 She could breathe no response, for to her ’twas the tone 
 Of the death-knell of all that was dear to her heart. 
 
 He hastened on board and the anchors were “ home 
 The wide canvas spread, his ship started from shore, 
 
 But ah ! who can tell of the evil to come, — 
 
 He had left her indeed, to behold her no more! 
 
 To the Isle of Malolo, the lonely abode 
 Of a Cannibal King and his murderous train, 
 
 The youth in the path of his duty had trod, — 
 
 Was attacked by the natives and treacherously slain. 
 
 I saw from his eye flash the heroic fire 
 
 Of a brave and true heart that was formed to command ; 
 
 He could not advance, and he would not retire, 
 
 But he stood, fought and fell with his knife in his hand. 
 
 To a desolate island his body we bore, 
 
 And laid his remains with his comrades to rest ; 
 
 That island ne’er held such a treasure before, 
 
 As the jewels we buried so deep in its breast. 
 
 Dear youth ! he has gone to his rest with the brave, 
 
 To the source whence true glory, true happiness springs 
 The tears of his countrymen sprinkled his grave, 
 
 And the blue, rolling ocean his requiem sings. 
 
REFLECTIONS. 
 
 319 
 
 In closing this work, having given my testimony to 
 the illustrious dead, I feel that it is but duty to give 
 my views of the living, and having had eight years ex- 
 perience in the U. S. navy, I am prepared to say that it 
 only needs an opportunity, to exhibit as much real 
 and active talent as has ever characterized our navy at 
 any previous time in its history. As a general prin- 
 ciple, the naval officers of the United States are gen- 
 tlemen, who would not suffer by a comparison with 
 those of any country in the world ; and being mostly 
 inducted into sea life in their boyhood, they grow up 
 in their business, and at the expiration of their minor- 
 ity, are as capable of managing a ship under any cir- 
 cumstances, as many officers whose heads are sprin- 
 kled o’er with age. I have heard foreigners urge as 
 an objection to the efficiency of our navy, the extreme 
 youth of many of our lieutenants ; but I feel satisfied 
 that the glory of the American navy will never be 
 tarnished from this cause. On the contrary, there 
 are many decided advantages arising from the youth 
 of our officers. The great experience of those who 
 are now past the middle age, and who, in the ordi- 
 nary course of nature, will be active and efficient 
 commanders long after our young lieutenants will be 
 flying their own pennants, is one of these advantages. 
 
 But there are two sources of evil that may be easily 
 closed, — one by the government, and the other by the 
 commanders of the different ships, from which an in- 
 fluence is expanding that must ultimately tarnish 
 American naval glory. The very common practice 
 of promoting foreigners to places of extra emolument 
 and trust among the grades denominated petty offi- 
 cers, has the effect to fill our navy with the sailors of 
 
320 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 other countries, while American seamen are becoming 
 disgusted with the service, by being compelled to sub- 
 mit to the authority of those who, with or without pro- 
 vocation, will abuse the country, curse the flag of the 
 United States every day ; and if in the indulgence of 
 those patriotic feelings which give spirit to the navy, 
 the American sailor should resent the insult, he would 
 be sure to receive the degrading penalty of one or two 
 dozen lashes from the “ cat-o’-nine-tails” on his na- 
 ked back. This practice, in time of war, will be pro- 
 ductive of the most pernicious consequences; — an il- 
 lustration was furnished in the late war with Eng- 
 land. In that unfortunate affair of the Chesapeake, 
 a Portuguese boatswain’s mate was heard to say, on 
 going below after the battle, “ So much for not pay- 
 ing men their prize money !” — plainly intimating that 
 he had purposely neglected his duty because he had 
 no interest in the engagement beyond the expectation 
 of prize money and wages. The practice, then, of. 
 filling all such offices with foreigners, must appear, to 
 the mind of every officer who knows the importance 
 of such stations in war, highly deleterious both to the 
 honor and efficiency of our navy. 
 
 The other source of deterioration, and one from 
 which unnumbered evils emanate, opening the flood- 
 gates of iniquity, is the serving of the “ grog rations.” 
 Probably, an officer cannot be found, who could not 
 honestly testify that nine tenths of the insurrections, 
 desertions, and indeed the whole catalogue of crimes 
 which curse the navy, are attributable to this perni- 
 cious practice. And yet government, knowing the 
 legitimate effects of this course, still persist in dealing 
 out destruction, wo and misery. By this custom the 
 
REFLECTIONS. 
 
 321 
 
 seamen are degraded, ill-treated, brutalized, and in 
 many cases probably remain so, from a kind of neces- 
 sity ; after having lost all self-respect, they have but 
 little inducement to mingle in decent society on shore. 
 
 How inconsistent ! The sailor is tempted, virtually 
 compelled to disobey, — by presenting him with the 
 intoxicating bowl, while his appetite is almost ungov- 
 ernable — and then is flogged for his disobedience ! He 
 is crushed, hurled to the depths of dissipation and 
 pollution, and is subject to discipline for his degrada- 
 tion ! In fine, almost insuperable barriers to his pro- 
 motion, and even to respectability are interposed, and 
 perchance it is deeply lamented that the sailor does 
 not become eminent in his profession. From the same 
 treasury the draught is drawn to defray the expenses 
 of the Chaplain, and to purchase “ liquid fire” to 
 counteract the most benign influences ! “Oh shame 
 where is thy blush ! ” 
 
 No man is a greater friend to discipline than I am. 
 I think I understand the necessity of having strict 
 discipline rigidly enforced. The navy cannot be gov- 
 erned without the aid of corporal punishment, so long 
 as the inducement is held out to make our men of 
 war the great receptacle of the besotted sailors of all 
 nations, who, by their excesses, have been rendered 
 incapable of doing their duty in the merchant service, 
 and seek for the gratification of a depraved appetite 
 in the service of the American government. I have 
 been flogged in the navy, through the effects of rum, 
 not drank by myself however, but by others ; for I 
 never was drunk in my life. But though unjustly 
 flogged, I would give my voice decidedly against the 
 banishment of the “ cats” from the navy so long as 
 
322 
 
 REFLECTIONS. 
 
 the grog ration is served there, as this is the only ef- 
 ficient restraint the commander can impose upon the 
 appetite of young sailors. 
 
 When the time arrives in which Congress shall 
 cease to encourage drunkenness and rebellion, our 
 own seamen, patriotic and responsible, will take their 
 stations, and do honor to the navy of their country. 
 Corporal punishment, with all its degrading attend- 
 ants, will then be abolished, and respectable officers 
 will be able to secure respectable men. And here I 
 am happy to add my testimony to the character of 
 Captains Wilkes and Hudson. They are both tem- 
 perance men and officers, and probably no two naval 
 officers are held in higher estimation, as men of judg- 
 ment and energy and decision of character. They 
 have seen the sad effects of intoxication, and I have 
 heard them both advocate the abolition of the “spirit 
 rations.” 
 
 The officers of the expedition were generally young 
 men, most of the lieutenants acting by the appoint- 
 ment of the Commodore ; the voyage was long, ex- 
 ceeding four years to most of us. Its duties were ar- 
 duous, and many of them hazardous in the extreme, 
 but by the skill and perseverance of the commanders, 
 the active and efficient cooperation of the younger offi- 
 cers, together with the fidelity and zeal of the seamen, 
 the most satisfactory result accrued from the cruise. 
 The most sanguine expectations of its projectors were 
 realized, and indeed much more than was originally 
 designed, was accomplished by our observations. We 
 had even here, ample demonstration of the fact that 
 more of the evils, and less of the benefits resulted 
 from the “-grog tub ” than from all other causes com- 
 bined. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Departure — Sermon — Ocean Scenery — Flying Fish and Dolphin— 
 
 A Brilliant Phosphoretic Scene, and its cause — The Madeira Isl- 
 ands — Rio de Janeiro — Ascent of the Sugar Loaf, . . . .13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Description of Rio de Janeiro — Emperor’s Palace — Celebration of the 
 Emperor’s Birth — Imperial Church Chapel — Chnrch, and the Vow 
 of the Empress — Sectional difference — Funeral occasion, . . 26 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Interview with the Natives — Orange Harbor — Interview with another 
 party of Natives — Return of a part of the Squadron — Valparaiso — 
 
 The Cemetery, 39 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 San Lorenzo — Epitaphs — Appearance of Natives and Soldiers — “ Glo- 
 rious Fourth” — Funeral of one of our number — Discovery of seve- 
 ral Islands, 54 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Island of Matavai — Visit of the Consul — Expedition — Sermon by Rev. 
 
 Mr. Wilson — Conduct of the American Consul — Treaty — Interview 
 with the Natives — Description of the Islands — Traits of the Inhab- 
 itants — Effects of Missionary labor, 66 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Visit of the Christian party — Appointments of the Consul — The Sa- 
 moa Group — Trial of a Native — Embarking of the Squadron — Wal- 
 lace Island — Arrival at New Holland — Inhabitants, . . . .81 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Murder of Rev. John Williams — Sydney — New South Wales — Em- 
 barkation — Gale — Dangers of Southern Latitudes, . . . .94 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Attempts to Land continued — Reflections — Return to the North, . 109 
 
324 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Arrival at New Holland — Singular coincidence — Arrival at New Zea- 
 land — “ War Dance” — Description of the Islands — Inhabitants — 
 
 The New Zealanders and New Hollanders contrasted, . . . 120 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 General Remarks — Fijii Islands — Cannibalism — A Convict Exile — 
 Death of a Shipmate — Encounter with the Natives — Visit at Muth- 
 water — A Fatal Contest with the Natives, 133 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 The Punishment for the Murders — Funeral Services of the Murder- 
 ed — Departure — Gardener's Island — Recollections of Home — Arri- 
 val at the Sandwich Islands — Honolulu — Common People, . . 159 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Visit of a Native Chief— Sentence of death passed upon two Natives 
 for the murder of a Female Chief — Departure — Arrival at Hawaii — 
 Expedition — Visit to the Volcano — MounaRoa, .... 173 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Ascent of the Mountain continued — The Lava — Fatigue and Expo- 
 sure of the Journey — Descent into the Crater — The Basin — Severi- 
 ty of the Weather— Return to the Ship — Visit of the Chief, . . 194 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Visit of the Missionaries — Survey of the Harbor — Embarkation — Ar- 
 rival at the Columbia River — Description — Arrival at Protection Isl- 
 and — Survey — Natives — Admiralty Inlet — Meteor — Observance of 
 the “ 4th ” — Accident, 207 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 General Remarks on Nasqually, &c. — Return to Columbia River — 
 Point Dungeness — Indian Settlement — Natives — San Francisco — 
 Inhabitants, 221 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Incident at Oahu — Departure — A 
 meditated attack of the Natives — Arrival at Singapore — Arrival at 
 St. Helena — Description — Reflections upon Napoleon — Departure 
 
 — Arrival at New York, 242 
 
 Reminiscences. — Wreck of the Peacock, 265 
 
 Lagoon or Disappointment Islands, . . . 289 
 
 Reflections. — The Murders at Malolo, 313 
 

 
 
 
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