Digitized by tlie Internet Arcliive in 2014 Iittps://arcliive.org/details/illustrateddescr00step_1 Illustrated Descriptive A^r^entina By Henry StepKens A.B., Ph.D. Ube IRnicfterbocfter press New YorK 1917 Copyright BY HENRY STEPHENS 1917 First Edition William -Allan Livingstone Of Detroit. MicHigan THis ]&ooK is Respectf\jill3^ Dedicated FOREWORD. ALTHOUGH the vast collection of books printed in the English language on Ar- gentina, its inhabitants and its resources are inexhaustible, none, however, have I seen given up in entirety to illustrations and descriptions thereof. The usual inane questions asked the recently returned traveler from South America by his friends at home such as: — ''What is Argentina like? I hear it is a great country.'' or, ''What does Buenos Aires look like?" cannot be answered in one or even in ten sentences. A chapter at least is needed for the briefest digest of description of this most progressive Republic in the Southern hemisphere. An oracular or written description gives a person one impression; illustrations give a different one; but neither alone can convey to the mind a true idea of a place or an object such as can be imbued by the individual who reads and studies a descrip- tive illustration. It is with this idea, therefore, that I have compiled these illustrations, and from a few words to a few paragraphs on each subject have V produced * ' Illustrated Descriptive Argentina, ' ' which I think is the only work of its kind. Most of the photographs I myself took; some were obtained from Olds, the pioneer landscape photographer of Buenos Aires; some from Chute & Brooks of Rosario; and others from A. A. Kirwin, of Tucuman. Henry Stephens. April 7, 1 91 7. vi BUENOS AIRES. BUENOS AIRES, federal capital of Argen- tina, has at the present time (191 7) a population of 1,650,000 inhabitants. It is the largest city in South America, and rivals Philadelphia for the distinction of being the third city in the Western Hemisphere. It is situated in latitude 34° 36^ 21^' south and longitude 58"^ 21' 33^' west. It is built in a rather poor location on the west bank of the River Plate, about 150 miles above its mouth, and about 130 miles northwest of Montevideo, the Uruguayan capital. Although the first settlement was made where the city now stands, by Pedro de Mendoza in 1535) the real founding of the city did not take place until 1580, forty-five years later, when Juan Garay established the city which is now styled correctly ''The Athens of America." What Nature failed to provide in the site of a great city, human work has overcome. Today Buenos Aires is the port of entry and the outlet of nearly all the commerce in the River Plate water- shed, the most prosperous and highly advanced vli part of South America, fast becoming the granary of Europe. It is the great distributing point of South America, in the same way that New York is that of North America. In one thing, however, is Buenos Aires lacking; — large manufacturing establishments. This is at present an impossi- bility, owing to the lack of iron, and to its great distance from the coal fields. Its heterogeneous population, yearly augmented by a large Euro- pean immigration, in which Italians and Spaniards predominate, has in recent years increased by leaps. The official census of 1869 gave it a popula- tion of only 177,767; that of 1895, 663,854; that of 1904, 950,891 ; the next year it passed the million mark. The city is cosmopolitan in character, has the most modern conveniences, including a subway, and an excellent tram service. It has a fine park system, many plazas, elegant buildings, both public and private, fine hotels, restaurants, clubs, and the best race track in the world. Its newspaper offices are in a class by themselves. The streets are kept clean, and no vile odors assail the nostrils of the passers-by as in most South American cities. Probably nowhere else in the world are to be seen so many well-dressed people, especially the ladies. They have such a sense of good taste in dress, which, added to their naturally well-formed figures, that even the poorest of them in the cheapest of material can put in the shade many of our society belles in the costliest of raiment. viii The climate of Buenos Aires, although only- averaging an annual temperature of 64"^ Fahren- heit, is humid, and the summer heat is at times enervating, and has a depressing effect. The rain- fall measures an annual average of 34 inches. Rains generally come from the west, and are preceded by violent gusts of wind. The intona- tions of^thunder are loud, with vivid flashes of lightning. ix CONTENTS PAGE Buenos Aires ...... vii Descriptive, Illustrated Argentina . . i Province of Buenos Aires . . .196 The Province of Santa Fe . . . 344 Territory of the Chaco .... 444 Territory of Misiones .... 452 Province of Entre Rios .... 458 Province of Cordoba .... 482 Province of Tucuman .... 586 Province of Salta . . . . . 638 Province of San Luis .... 678 Province of Mendoza .... 7q6 ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE Immigrant Station ....... 2 Water Front OF Buenos Aires IN 1888 . . 4 Darsena Sud 6 General View of Buenos Aires .... 8 Majestic Hotel 10 Plaza Hotel 12 Paris Hotel 14 Splendid Hotel Frascati 16 Congressional Building . . . . . .18 Room where Congress Meets, El Congreso . . 20 Lounge Room of the Representatives, El Congreso . 22 Capitol Building, Western Facade .... 24 Courtyard of the Capitol 26 Audience Room of the Capitol . . . .28 Custom House ........ 30 Post Office ........ 32 Law Courts 34 City Hall 36 National Board of Education Building ... 38 Rivadavia School 40 RocA School 42 Business College . . . • . • 44 Faculty of Medicine 46 National Library 48 Main Office of La Prensa. ..... 50 xiii FACING PAGE Directors' Room, La Prensa , ... 52 Banquet Hall, La Prensa Building .... 54 Office Building OF THE Central Argentine Railway . 56 Once Railroad Station 58 Plaza Constitucion Railroad Station ... 60 The Mataderos 62 Stockyards of the Mataderos, Partial View . . 64 Scraping Room, Mataderos ..... 66 "Your Turn Next*' ....... 68 German Club , . .70 Jockey Club 72 Atrium of the Jockey Club 74 Balcony around Courtyard of Jockey Club . . 76 Domino Room of the Jockey Club .... 78 DiNiNG-RooM, Jockey Club 80 Entrance to the Race Track 82 Grandstands of the Race Track .... ^4 The Argentine Hippodrome ..... 86 Race Course, Argentine Hippodrome ... 88 Reconquista Street 90 Plaza de Mayo 92 AvENiDA DE Mayo 94 Bartolome Mitr6 Street 96 Florida Street 98 Defensa Street 100 Tucuman Street 102 A Buenos Aires Market ...... 104 A Conventillo ........ 106 Avenida Alvear. ....... 108 Another View of the Beautiful Avenida Alvear . no RivADAviA Street, Flores 112 Avenida Manuel Montes de Oca . . . .114 xiv FACING PAGE Paseo de Julio in 1888 . . . ^ . . .116 Paseo de Julio, 1907 . . . . . .118 Statue in the Plaza Lorea 120 "Statue of Doubt" ....... 122 Statue in Palermo Park . . . . .124 Lola Mora Fountain . . . . . .126 Statue of George Washington . . . .128 Lavalle Monument . . . . . . .130 Garibaldi Statue ....... 132 San Martin Statue . . . . , . .134 French Monument 136 Entrance to the Recoleta ..... 138 A Street of the Dead . . . . . .140 Ayerza Monument, Recoleta 142 Jos^: Semino Vault, Recoleta ..... 144 DoRREGO Ortiz Basualdo Tomb, Recoleta , . 146 Santo Domingo Church 148 Santa Catalina de Sena Church . . . .150 Interior of San Nicolas Church . . . .152 Church of the Concepcion 154 Church of San Salvador . . . . . .156 Basilica of the Concepcion, Belgrano . . . 158 Wheat Elevators .160 Basualdo Palace . . . . . . .162 Paz Palace 164 A Buenos Aires Residence 166 House of the Colonial Period. .... 168 Home of the Tyrant Rozas 170 House where Rozas was Born , . . . .172 Palermo Park 174 Artificial Lake In Palermo Park . . . .176 Llamas at the Zoological Garden . . . .178 XV FACING PAGE "NUMA** AND "SaBOR" l8o Itinerant Cigar Vendor 182 Peddlers of Bread and Vegetables . . .184 Garlic and Onion Peddler 186 Typical Bar, Buenos Aires 188 The Riachuelo 190 The Riachuelo 192 Statue of Avellaneda, Avellaneda . . .194 Country House, Province of Buenos Aires . . 200 Country House, Province of Buenos Aires . . 202 EsTANciA "San Jacinto*' 204 EsTANCiA "San Fernando*' 206 EsTANCiA "Los Remedios" 208 Estancia "Santa Catalina" 210 EsTANCiA "Villa Elisa*' *. 212 Estancia "El Socorro" 214 Flock of Sheep on "El Socorro" .... 216 Sheep on an Estancia, Province of Buenos Aires . 218 Argentine Sheep 220 GUANACOS ON an EsTANCIA ..... 222 Estancia "CurumalAn" ...... 224 Estancia "La Negreta" 226 Estancia "Villate Olaguer" 228 Ombu Tree on Estancia "Villate Olaguer" . . 230 Bull Stable on an Argentine Estancia . . . 232 Prize Bull, Province of Buenos Aires . . . 234 Dairy Farm, Estancia "Tambo La Florida" . . 236 Dairy Cows, Estancia "Constitucion" . . . 238 Hereford Cattle at Estancia "La Fidela" . . 240 Prize Cattle at an Argentine Fair .... 242 Ranch of the Frigorifico "La Blanca" . . . 244 A Tropero 246 xvi FACING PAGE Gauchos . . 248 Plowing Scene ........ 250 The Return from Threshing ..... 252 Straw Stacks ........ 254 Bringing Wheat to the Railroad Estancia "San Pascual" ........ 256 Sacks of Wheat at an Argentine Railroad Station . 258 PuLPERiA **El Ombu" 260 Plaza and Church at Quilmes .... 262 La Plata ......... 264 Railway Station 266 Casa de Justicia ....... 268 Legislature . . . .' . . . . 270 Capitol ......... 272 City Hall 274 Park, La Plata 276 La Plata Views: Normal School 278 Bank of the Province of Buenos Aires . . 278 La Plata Views : Old Railway Station 280 Statue of San Martin 280 Fishing Boats at Mar del Plata . . . . 286 The Strand 288 La Peral ......... 290 Church, Mar del Plata ...... 292 Bust of Humbert I . . . . . . . 294 Mar del Plata Club ...... 296 Hotel Bristol and Casino ..... 298 Dining-Room, Hotel Bristol . . . . . 300 Annex of the Hotel Bristol ..... 302 The Rambla ........ 304 xvii FACING PAGE Cordoba Street ....... 306 Balancing Stone, Tandil 308 Plaza Colon, Azul 310 Plaza Colonel Olavarria, OlavarrIa . . .312 Church of San Jose, OlavarrIa . . . .314 Chiclana Street, Bahia Blanca . . . .316 Plaza Rivadavia 318 Alsina Street ........ 320 TiGRE ......... 322 Open-air Dining-room, Hotel Tigre .... 324 Country Store, Zarate ...... 326 City Hall, San Pedro 328 Church at San Pedro . ' 330 City Hall and Courthouse, Mercedes . . . 332 25TH Street, Mercedes . . . . . . 334 Church at Mercedes 336 Central Argentina Railway Station, Pergamino . 338 Views of Pergamino: San NicolAs Street, Showing Hotel Roma on the Right 340 San NicolAs Street, Looking South . . . 340 Views of Pergamino: Side Street in Pergamino . . . . . 342 Plaza — 25 de Mayo 342 The Santa Fe Campo ...... 346 Plowing Virgin Soil 348 Typical Ranch ........ 350 Sacks of Corn at a Railway Station . . . 352 Dipping Sheep at Estancia "Santa Isabel" . . 354 General View of Santa Ft 358 Harbor at Santa Fe ...... 360 Plaza de Mayo 362 xviii FACING PAGE Normal School . ..... 364 Commerce Street 366 Church of San Francisco ..... 368 Church of San Antonio ...... 370 La Merced Church ....... 372 Exportation Section of Port Works, Rosario . 376 Rosario in 1888 378 Station of the Province of Santa Fe Railroad . 380 Tracks of the Central Argentina Railroad, Rosario 382 Courthouse 384 Political Building ....... 386 Plaza de Mayo 388 City Hall 390 La Matriz, or Cathedral 392 Governor Freyre School ..... 394 Stock Exchange 396 London and Brazilian Bank 398 Bank of Italy and River Plate .... 400 Spanish Bank of the River Plate .... 402 British Bank of South America .... 404 Bank of London and River Plate .... 406 French Bank of the River Plate .... 408 Castagnino Building . . . . . . 410 Santa Fe Street 412 San Martin Street ...... 414 Views of Rosario: Cordoba Street ....... 416 Cordoba Street 418 Boulevard Orono ....... 420 Residence of Dr. C. Bartlett ..... 422 PiNAsco Mansion ....... 424 Fernandez Diaz Residence ..... 426 xix FACING PAGB Residenxe of Dr. Nicanor Elia .... 428 Palatial Residence in Rosario .... 430 Residence of Diego Alvear ..... 432 Column of Victory, Plaza de Mayo . . . 434 Mausoleum of Marcelino Semino .... 436 Independence Park ....... 438 Swimming Pool at Saladillo ..... 440 MoNTES Residence at Alberdi 442 Palmares, Territory of Chaco .... 446 Indian Tolda ........ 448 ToBA Women 450 Falls of the Iguazu ...... 454 Another View of the Iguazlt Falls . . . 456 Entrerriano Landscape ...... 460 Parana River Landscape, Province of Entre Rios . 462 Santa Elena . . ... . . . . 464 Parana River Passenger Ferry .... 466 Entrerriano Shore of the ParanA River . . 468 EuROPA Street, ParanA 470 Plaza de Mayo, ParanA 472 Cathedral 474 Church of San Miguel 476 Capitol, ParanA ....... 478 Urquiza Street, ParanA 480 Partial View of Cordoba ..... 488 View of Cordoba, Looking South .... 490 Central of Cordoba Railway Station . . . 492 Northern Market ....... 494 Centennial Bridge 496 Bridge over the Rio Primero ..... 498 San Geronimo Street ...... 500 Plaza San Martin 502 XX FACING PAGE Bank of the Argentine Nation .... 504 Spanish Bank of the River Plate .... 506 Bank of London and River Plate .... 508 Bank of the Province of C6rdoba . . . .510 Capitol ......... 512 New Capitol ........ 514 New Courthouse 516 New City Hall ....... 518 Rivera Indarte Theater 520 Olmos School 522 Penitentiary 524 Cordoba Brewery ....... 526 MiNETTi Brothers' Flour Mill. .... 528 Cathedral 530 Church of San Roque 532 Church of Santo Domingo 534 Cloister of Santo Domingo ..... 536 Church of La Mercedes 538 Church of the Compania 540 Church of Santa Teresa ...... 542 Church of San Francisco 544 Interior of Church of San Francisco . . . 546 AvENiDA General Paz . . . . . . 548 Fall of Bridge in Sarmiento Park .... 550 Zoological Garden ....... 552 Statue to Velez Sarsfield 554 SOBREMONTE HoUSE . ...... 556 Garzon Residence 558 Chalet of Senor Minetti 560 Street Scene, Bialet Masset ..... 562 Street Scene, Cordoba 562 Filters on the Rio Primero ..... 564 xxi FACING * PAGE Rio Primero ..... ... 566 PUENTE DEL SaLTO ....... 568 DiQUE Malet 570 DiQUE San Roque 572 San Roque Lake 574 Typical Estancia, Province of Cordoba . . . 574 Church at San Roque . . . . . ■ . 576 CoRDOBESE Landscape in the Sierra . . . 578 CosQuiN 580 The Hub of Activity of Cosquin .... 582 Street in Cosquin 582 Fruit and Cake Vendors, Province of Cordoba . . 584 Central of Argentina Railroad Station . . . 590 "Delighted'* ........ 590 North Side of the Plaza 592 Street Scene ........ 592 Side Street ........ 594 One of the Main Streets ..... 594 South Side of the Plaza . . . . ... 596 School Built and Maintained by the Provincial Government ....... 596 The Capitol, TucumAn 598 Street Scene . . . . . . . . 600 Municipal Pawnshop ...... 602 A Holiday in TucumAn ...... 604 General O'Donnell's Escort of Lancers . . 606 University of TucumAn ...... 608 Patio of the University 610 Examiners* Board, University of TucumAn . .612 Bacteriological Laboratory, Experimental Station OF Agriculture . . . . . . .614 Interior of the Alberdi Theatre . . . .616 xxii FACING PAGE Cigar Factory 6i8 Fire Engine, Tucuman ...... 620 The Firemen's Ball ....... 622 Mausoleum of the Clergymen's Society . . . 624 Mounted Policeman, Tucuman . . . . . 626 A Fortunate Gentleman ...... 628 Typical Grocery Store, Suburbs of Tucuman . 630 A Country Cottage 632 Curious Stone, Province of Tucuman . . . 634 A Near View of the Same Stone .... 636 Railroad Station, Salta ...... 644 A Parade in Salta . 646 Salta Social Club 648 Building of the Colonial Type .... 650 Old Cabildo, Salta ....... 652 Plaza Hotel 654 Mitre Street ........ 656 Bank of the Argentine Nation .... 658 Provincial Bank, Salta 660 Ancient Church of La Merced .... 662 San Martin Park 664 Penitentiary ........ 666 Modern Residence, Salta . . . . . 668 20TH of February Monument ..... 670 Cemetery Scene, Salta 672 Street Scene in Guemes 674 View across the Roofs of Salta from Monastery of San Francisco ....... 674 Steers on a Salta Farm 676 City of San Luis 680 Railroad Station 682 Street Scene . . . . \ . . . 682 xxiii FACING PAGE The Capitol, San Luis 684 Post-Office, San Luis 686 Club and Municipal Theatre 688 Court House, San Luis 690 Market, San Luis ....... 692 Lafinur School ........ 694 Church of Santo Domingo ..... 696 pRiNGLEs' Monument ....... 698 Bank of the Argentine Nation .... 700 Alfalfa Field, Environs of San Luis . . . 700 One of the Main Streets . . . . . 702 Hacienda about Three Miles East of City of San Luis 702 Typical Country Scene, Province of San Luis . . 704 Buenos Aires Pacific Railroad Station . . .712 Necochea Street .712 Municipal Theatre 714 Bank of the Province of Mendoza . . . .714 Plaza San Martin 716 Spanish Bank of the River Plate . . . .718 Bank of the Argentine Nation .... 720 The Alameda 722 Ruins of the Church of Santo Domingo . . . 724 Sarmiento Street 726 Rotunda in West Park ...... 728 Wine Industry, Province of Mendoza . . . 730 Wine Industry, Province of Mendoza . . . 732 Wine Industry, Province of Mendoza . . . 734 Wine Industry, Province of Mendoza . . . 736 Lujan Dam, Upper View 738 LujAN Dam, Lower View 73^ Rio Blanco 740 XXIV FACING PAGE Raths of C^acheuta 7J.2 Raths of Oacheuta U SPALL AT A ........ Las Vacas ........ PUENTE DEL InCA 7^0 PUENTE DEL InCA 7^2 Pttfntf dfl Inca 7^ J. Aconcagua . 756 Mouth of International Tunnel, Las Cuevas . . 758 International Tunnel, Las Cuevas . . 760 The Christ of the Andes .... . 762 XXV Descriptive, Illustrated Argentina I IMMIGRANT STATION. THIS Ellis Island of Argentina is called Hotel de Immigrantes. Here future citizens of the Republic are inspected upon landing. They are housed and fed here at the expense of the government until the time comes when they are to be sent to different parts of the country, to obtain labor that they have been adapted to at home. Their transportation is furnished free. This is undoubtedly the most laudatory institution in the Republic. 2 3 WATER FRONT OF BUENOS AIRES IN 1888. THIS is a photograph of the water front of the Argentina metropoHs when its popu- lation numbered but 404,000 inhabit- ants. Instead of the crude channel cut through the mud bank as is here shown, Buenos Aires today (191 7) boasts of great stone-walled basins equal to but few in existence. The low buildings in the background have all been super- seded by great edifices and skyscrapers. The road in the foreground is now a beautiful park- way, the Paseo Colon, adorned with trees and flowerbeds. 4 DARSENA SUD. THIS nomenclature means Southern Basin, to distinguish it from the Darsena Norte or northern one. Its stone walls offer a striking contrast to mud banks that flanked the harbor as is shown in the water- front picture of Buenos Aires in 1888. Most passenger ships from foreign ports enter the Darsena Norte, and after lying there for a day or two move out to other docks. As a rule they sail from Darsena Sud. From Darsena Sud sail the Montevideo boats, the steamers that ply between Buenos Aires and the River Plate ports, as well as those destined up the Parana, Paraguay, and Uruguay Rivers. The shipping commerce of Buenos Aires is growing so rapidly that these basins are hardly adequate to take care of it. 6 7 GENERAL VIEW OF BUENOS AIRES. THIS photograph was taken from the roof of the Plaza Hotel, and gives an idea of the roof line of the city looking in a southwesterly direction. In the far right background appears the attenuated dome of the Congressional Building, which dominates by its height all the other buildings of the city. The large pile at the extreme right background is the Colon Theatre which is said to be the largest structure of its kind in the world. Directly behind it, and also seen in this photograph, are the Law Courts. The high tower in the far left background is that of the Majestic Hotel. 8 MAJESTIC HOTEL. THIS, to the writer's notion, is the best hotel in South America, and is un- excelled as to service, lodgings, and cuisine. It is on the Avenida de Mayo, the principal boulevard of the city, at the corner of Santiago del Estero Street. It was opened in 1910, the centenary of Argentine independence, and was leased by the Government during the summer season of that year for 600,000 pesos ($252,000), as an abode for the visiting ambassadors, diplomats, and guests of distinction. It is a good example of the highest class of South American hotel, where the ceilings are high and the rooms are large. In this respect the South American hostelry is in great contrast with its North American prototype, for it is the custom in North America nowadays to crowd as many rooms into as small a space as is possible. The Majestic Hotel has a glass-roofed court- yard beginning on the third floor, around which run five stories of balconies. It also has a roof garden. The tower is surmounted by a gilded metal sun, which scintillates when struck by the rays of the real sun, and carries its golden reflection for a great distance. 10 II PLAZA HOTEL. THIS is the most famous hotel in South America. It was built by the banker, Ernesto Tornquist, and is under the Ritz-Carlton management. Like most Ritz-Carlton hotels, its prices are exorbitant for the value received. Its cuisine is excellent, but finer rooms for lesser prices can be found in other hotels of the Argentina metropolis. Fifty pesos ($21.00) a day is an ordinary rate at the Plaza for two people. This includes a room with two beds, vestibule and bath, lunch and dinner, but does not include breakfast. It is popular during the winter months for pink teas, banquets, and dinner parties for the Bonae- rense elite. It is also a favorite abode for certain North American travelling men, who like to impress their prospective clients, never failing to mention to the latter that they are stopping at the Plaza Hotel. The Plaza Hotel is situated on the Plaza San Martin, at the end of Florida Street, Buenos Aires' most busy retail thoroughfare and opposite to the American Embassy. The building is ten stories in height and creates a pleasing aspect. 12 13 PARIS HOTEL. THIS hotel is situated on the Avenida de Mayo and is one of the older first-class hotels in the city. It is now about twelve years old. On its street floor is one of the best restaurants in the city. It has a large cafe, and like the hostelries in the French metropolis, iron-topped tables are set in front of it on the sidewalk, where refreshments are served to those who prefer to sit in the open air. 14 SPLENDID HOTEL FRASCATI. THIS is a good type of the better second- class hotels of the city. Buenos Aires boasts of quite a few of this sort. It is located on the Avenida de Mayo. i6 CONGRESSIONAL BUILDING. IT is called El Congreso, and is one of the handsomest buildings in the world. It is said to have cost $20,000,000. It is built of brick and faced with white Italian marble. It took a long time to complete it, the last stages being rendered difficult on account of the scarcity of freight carriers caused by the Italo-Turkish War, and later by the great European War. Although it is a masterpiece, yet the building appears low and rather squat on account of its large ground area. Two or three more stories would have greatly added to its , dignity. It is surmounted by a tall slender dome which can be seen for miles beyond the city limits from the fiat plains of the Province of Buenos Aires. El Congreso faces the Plaza del Congreso at the extreme western end of the Avenida de Mayo. 18 19 • ROOM WHERE CONGRESS MEETS, EL CONGRESO. 20 LOUNGE ROOM OF THE REPRESENTA- TIVES, EL CONGRESO. Note the costly furniture. 22 23 CAPITOL BUILDING, WESTERN FACADE. THIS building which is the capitol, and called Casa de Gobierno, meaning Government House, is generally spoken of as the Casa Rosada, or Rose Colored House from the stucco of this color which covers the bricks of the building. It covers a whole city block. Its eastern facade faces the Colon Park and from it makes an imposing appearance, as from there it stands upon an eminence. Its western fagade is at the extreme eastern end of the Plaza de Mayo, the eastern terminus of the syca- more bordered Avenida de Mayo, the main boulevard of Buenos Aires. It is by no means a beautiful building on account of its color, which gives it a rather dirty appearance. 24 25 COURTYARD OF THE CAPITOL. THE interior of the Casa Rosada, gives the visitor a much better impression of it than if seen from the outside. The courtyard is bordered by broad tile- paved balconies, whose arches are supported by Corinthian pillars. 26 AUDIENCE ROOM OF THE CAPITOL. THIS is the room used on occasions of state where the president receives his visitors. The present incumbent of the executive power is Dr. Victorino de la Plaza. 28 29 CUSTOM HOUSE. THE custom house, called the Aduana, is on the Colon Park, a couple of blocks southeast of the Casa Rosada at the bottom of the hill and across the Avenida del Oeste from the docks. It is a hand- some Renaissance building with two tall square towers rising above its eastern fagade. 30 31 POST-OFFICE. IT is known as the Correo. Not only is it an eyesore, but it is a disgrace to the city. This photograph gives it a pleasing appearance. Dispel the illusion. It is situated at the corner of Reconquista and Corrientes Streets, two blocks north of the banking section of the city. The streets here are for but one direction traffic, and the passenger of a vehicle to reach it is forced to make detours in order to reach it. As the traffic is heavy considerable time is lost in reaching it. The building, which is of a dirty gray in color, was built to accommodate the public of a much smaller city. As the business increases in volume, neighboring buildings are leased so that now there is no system in its arrangement. The corner room in the immediate foreground on the street floor is devoted to the sale of postage stamps. To mail letters, the person doing so is obliged to come out on the street again, and walk half a block up Corrientes Street, the thorough- fare to the right, and post them in a chute in a building leased for that purpose. The General Delivery windows are in a building a half-block down Reconquista Street, the thoroughfare here seen at the left of the photograph. 32 33 LAW COURTS. CALLED the Tribunales, and Palacio de Justitia. It is a huge Neo-Egyptian pile in the business section of the city, on the west side of the Plaza Lavalle. It is constantly undergoing a process of exterior reconstruction, as is seen by the scaffolding in the accompanying picture. It is one of the largest buildings in Buenos Aires, and has a rather severe and frowning appearance. 34 35 CITY HALL. IT is known as the Municipalidad. It is a fine building on the western end of the Plaza de Mayo, at the corner of the Avenida de Mayo. It extends northward to Rivadavia Street, at which corner the fagade is surmounted by a dome crowned by a very tall needle-like pinnacle, which is original, if not artistic. The building, though modern, is hardly large enough to be adequate for a city of the size of Buenos Aires. 36 37 NATIONAL BOARD OF EDUCATION BUILDING. WE have no institution like this in the United States. This National Board of Education controls the universi- ties, technical schools, as well as the schools of secondary and primary instruction. 38 39 RIVADAVIA SCHOOL. THIS is a good example of the exterior aspect of a Buenos Aires public school. Buildings used for these purposes do not stand back from the street in a yard like the North American ones, but are hemmed in between other buildings. Their appear- ance is invariably austere, of solid classical lines, which brings to one's mind the impression of a courthouse or post-office. This school is named in honor of Bernardino Rivadavia, President of Argentina, 1 826-1 827. 40 41 ROCA SCHOOL. ANOTHER example of public school building. This is named in honor of General Julio Argentino Roca, Presi- dent of Argentina, 1 880-1 886. 42 43 BUSINESS COLLEGE. IN exterior appearance, there is nothing to distinguish this building from any pubHc school of Buenos Aires. The standard of education in this business college is higher than in its prototypes in the United States. There are in Argentina, National Institutes. These are similar to the French Lycees, combining science, literature, and arts, inferior in learning to the North American standard universities, but superior to the high schools. 44 45 FACULTY OF MEDICINE. THIS ultra classical building is commonly known by the ghoulish appellation of *'The Morgue/' It derives this non- euphonious nickname from the fact that cadavers are here dissected by the medical students. It is a department of the University of Buenos Aires. 46 47 NATIONAL LIBRARY. THE Carnegie Foundation recently gave this library a present of 20,000 volumes, with the proviso that the Argentine Government donate one or more rooms for them, and that they shall be maintained at the expense of the government. 48 49 MAIN OFFICE OF LA PRENSA. LA PRENSA {The Press) is the world's greatest newspaper. It has also a branch office in Paris. Buenos Aires has many good news- papers besides La Prensa, La Nacion has an enormous circulation. Newspapers of note are, La Razon, La Argentina, Ultima Llora, and La Union, besides many others. La Union is con- trolled by German capital, and is the mouthpiece of pro-Teutonic propaganda. There are also daily newspapers printed in many foreign languages, including two printed in English, the Standard and the Buenos Aires Herald. According to the writer the last two are not worth the paper they are printed on. The two comic weeklies. Fray Macho and Caras y Carretas are equal to Puck and Judge. The president of La Prensa is Dr. Davila, one of the world's foremost newspaper men, a financier, and a politician of such great importance that he can be styled ''the man behind the gun.'' The furnishing and equipment of the La Pre7isa office building is most sumptuous; in fact it is unparalleled. It has banquet rooms, lounge rooms, reading-rooms, and reminds the visitor of an elegant club. 50 DIRECTORS' ROOM, LA PRENSA. Note the elaborate wood-carving. 53 BANQUET HALL, LA PRENSA BUILDING. THIS room, resplendent with gorgeous paintings, is used not only as a banquet hall, but is sometimes converted into a lecture and entertainment hall, as is depicted in this photograph with its regular rows of chairs, ready to seat an audience. 54 55 OFFICE BUILDING OF THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. THIS great railroad system has its offices in the heart of the city. The edifice faces the Paseo de JuHo, with the ticket office at the corner of the streets, Barto- lome Mitre, and 25 de Mayo. The station of the Central Argentine Railway is the largest and finest in all South America, and has recently been completed. It is situated in the section of the city named Retiro. 56 57 ONCE RAILROAD STATION. THIS is the station of the Western Rail- road. Until the new Central Argentine station of Retiro was built Once was conceded to be the best railroad station in the city. It is situated at the intersection of the streets, Pueyrredon and Bartolome Mitre on the Plaza Once de Septiembre (nth of September). The Plaza Once is about a mile west of the new Congressional Building, and is a busy electric car center. It is also a station of the subway. 58 59 PLAZA CONSTITUCION RAILROAD STATION. THIS is the station of the Southern Rail- road, the largest railroad system in Argentina. Nearly all the lines in the republic south of Buenos Aires belong to the Southern Railroad. From this station leave all trains for Mar del Plata, Bahia Blanca, and the towns of the wheat belt in the Province of Buenos Aires. The Plaza Constitucion is a busy square, a mile south of the Avenida de Mayo. 6i THE MATADEROS. THIS is the name given to the large slaughter house, which in size nearly equals those of Chicago. Strange to relate, the district that has been built up around these mataderos is named Nueva Chicago (New Chicago). As Argentina is one of the greatest beef producing countries on the globe, the mataderos is naturally an extremely busy place. 62 63 STOCKYARDS OF THE MATADEROS, PAR- TIAL VIEW. 64 65 SCRAPING ROOM, MATADEROS. IN this picture is seen the hide of a steer pulled up to the roof by means of a pulley. The laborers by means of sharp knives then scrape off the fat from the inside of the hide, which is made into lard and candles. 66 67 **YOUR TURN NEXT." NOTICE the sheep in the pen patiently waiting for their turn to be murdered, as soon as the workmen have trussed up the carcasses of their brethren to taken away. 68 GERMAN CLUB. ALTHOUGH of the foreigners in Buenos Aires, the Germans are outnumbered by the ItaHans, Spaniards, EngHshmen, Frenchmen, and Russian Jews, never- theless they have the finest club house (private). They have built their club in the Hanseatic style of architecture, which in Buenos Aires offers a pleasant contrast to the Italian architecture of the majority of buildings. 70 71 JOCKEY CLUB. THIS is the wealthiest ckib in the world. It is situated on the east side of Florida Street, midway between the Avenida de Mayo and the Plaza San Martin. Its style of architecture is rococo. Notice the blind wall at the extreme left. It also has one at the extreme right. These are built for privacy, so that the occupants of the neighboring buildings cannot be constantly ''rubbering/' thus freeing the members from annoyance. The blind walls also add to the appearance of the building. The Jockey Club has nearly 2000 members. The entrance fee costs 3000 pesos ($1284) while the annual dues are $72 exclusive of anything. The income of the club, largely derived from its race track, amounts to $600,000 a year. The club has offered at its own expense to widen some of the narrow streets in the congested center of the city and to open up new arteries of traffic to do away with the congestion. There is much electioneering at the election of officers of the club. The Presidency is such a great honor and the rivalry is often so keen, that the car fares of members who reside in such remote corners of the republic as Salta is sometimes paid for them to come to cast their vote for their friend who covets this honor. 72 73 ATRIUM OF THE JOCKEY CLUB. Note the costly and elegant Roman decorations. 74 75 BALCONY AROUND COURTYARD OF JOCKEY CLUB. 76 77 DOMINO ROOM OF THE JOCKEY CLUB. THIS fine room is devoted to the lovers of chess, dominos, cards, and other table games. Although poker is played in the club, it is done in another room. The writer understands that the stakes are moderate. 78 79 DINING-ROOM, JOCKEY CLUB. THE cuisine of the Jockey Club is un- excelled. Most of the personnel are French, from the chef to the gargon. 80 8i ENTRANCE TO THE RACE TRACK. THE Jockey Club maintains its race track in Palermo Park, about one half hour by automobile from the center of the city. The betting is done by the system called ''mutuals/' The open promenade in this picture is covered with small yellow-brown polished pebbles brought by train from the seaboard. Races take place every Thursday and Sunday afternoons. GRANDSTANDS OF THE RACE TRACK. THESE are the oeuvres of the French architect, M. Faure Dujarric. The one in the foreground is reserved for members only. Ladies, unattended, are refused admittance to the grandstand. At this race track is to be seen the cream of the most fashionable dressmakers' art. At no place in the universe is such fashion of the latest creations seen. It is said that the dernier cri of Paris creations are worn in Buenos Aires before the French dressmakers put them on the market in their own capital. The Jockey Club grandstand is the place to see them, especially on Sunday afternoons. 84 85 THE ARGENTINE HIPPODROME. ANOTHER race track of Buenos Aires. Here also take place other athletic events, such as football, tennis, and cricket. 86 87 RACE COURSE, ARGENTINE HIPPODROME. HORSE races are society events in the Argentine metropolis. Here one does not need rub shoulders with the low- lived touts that congregate around the English and North American paddocks. Notice the dresses of the ladies and the cylinder hats worn by the men. 88 89 RECONQUISTA STREET. RECONQUISTA means "reconquest/' This street was formerly named Piedad ''piety." It is the banking street of Buenos Aires. Many of these banks are very large affairs, especially the Bank of the Argentine Nation, which has branches in nearly every town in the republic. Its president is Dr. Manuel de Iriondo. Other large banks on Reconquista Street are the German Bank of South America, the German Overseas Bank, the Bank of London and River Plate, the London and Brazilian Bank, and the Spanish Bank of the River Plate. These bank buildings, although large, are inferior to those of New York, and of Montreal. 91 PLAZA DE MAYO. THIS picture is of the Rivadavia Street vside of the Plaza de Mayo, the most important plaza of Buenos Aires. The view is looking east. The building in the left foreground is the cathedral. Note the Corinthian capital on smooth columns. This cathedral is built somewhat on the style of the Madeleine in Paris, although much smaller. Like most Catholic churches in Buenos Aires, it is nearly always closed, especially when a sightseer wants to visit it. The last building to the right is the Bank of the Argentine Nation, at the corner of Reconquista Street. This photograph is an old one taken some years ago by PL G. Olds, the pioneer photographer. Horse cars are here seen. With the exception that there are no more horse cars in Buenos Aires this photograph could be of the present day, as the same buildings are standing. 92 93 AVENIDA DE MAYO. THIS is the great boulevard of Buenos Aires. It is about one mile in length, starting at the Plaza de Mayo and terminating at the Plaza Congreso. A subway runs its whole length but there are no surface cars. This street contains many ''islands'* in the center like the Parisian boulevards, where the pedestrian can find security from the swiftly driven vehicles. The Avenida de Mayo is the great promenade, where rich and poor alike walk by, taking in the sights. It teems with cafes, all of which have iron- topped tables in front of them on the sidewalk. Here sit the students of human nature to while away the time, imbibing soft and hard refresh- ments while they are being pestered by boot- blacks, lottery ticket vendors, flower girls, peddlers, stranded bums, and beggars. Some of the best hotels in the city are to be found on this street, namely, the Majestic, Paris, Splendid, Espafia, Esclava, and Gaviezel. The shops are of the inferior kind, many being owned by Russian Jews. The end of the Avenida here depicted is that where it joins the Plaza de Mayo. The large building at the near right is the City Hall. The edifice adjoining it to the left, and whose tower is elaborated by a statue, is that of La Prensa. In the hazy distance note the faint outlines of the Congressional Building. 94 95 BARTOLOME MITRE STREET. THIS street parallels the Avenida de Mayo two blocks north of it. It is a business street devoted to omnifarious trades. It is typical of any of the streets in the business section of the Argentine metropolis. 96 97 FLORIDA STREET. AMED after our state, which at the time this street was laid out was a colony of Spain. This is the Bond Street of Buenos Aires. Its buildings are two and three stories high. The shops, like in most Latin countries, are small, but the displays are grand, as well as the prices charged. The street is narrow and after five o'clock in the evening no vehicles are allowed to pass over it, for then, at the promenade hour, it is congested with strollers. On this Calle Florida is to be seen more class in dress than on the famous Avenida. 98 DEFENSA STREET. SO called for here were formerly the forti- fications to defend the city against an attack from the sea. This street runs south from the Plaza de Mayo in the same position as Reconquista Street runs north of it. 100 lOI TUCUMAN STREET. AN Argentine city without its Calle Tucuman would be an exception, for it is the custom in that country for the city streets to be named after the provinces, as well as after its patriots and presidents. Calle Tucuman is the seventh street north of the Avenida de Mayo, and runs parallel to it. The view in this photograph is looking eastward on it from the Plaza Lavalle. The building at the left is the Colon Theatre; that to the right is the Roca School. 102 A BUENOS AIRES MARKET. 104 I05 A CONVENTILLO. ACONVENTILLO is the name for a blind alley. Many do not exist in the Argen- tine metropolis, and they are only to be found in the slums. They are the abodes of the poorest class of inhabitants and are dirty, as can be seen in this photograph. io6 107 AVENIDA ALVEAR. THIS is the most beautiful avenue of Buenos Aires, the residential street of the aristocracy. Next to Fifth Avenue in New York, it is doubtful if there exists anywhere else in the world such a magnifi- cent row of palaces. 1 08 I09 ANOTHER VIEW OF THE BEAUTIFUL AVENIDA ALVEAR. no Ill RIVADAVIA STREET, FLORES. CALLE RIVADAVIA can justly be called the main street of Buenos Aires. It is the longest street in the city and bisects it from east to west in two nearly equal parts. It starts at the water front and continues into the Province of Buenos Aires beyond the limits of the Federal Capital. It is also the divid- ing line of the nomenclatures of its cross streets : — for instance, the same street south of it is named Salta, north of it, it is named Libertad. The Avenida de Mayo parallels it for about a mile, one short block to its south. After reaching the Plaza Congreso, the subway curves to the north and continues under Rivadavia nearly its whole length westward to the city limits. Calle Rivadavia is very narrow in the downtown district, but widens out considerably after the Plaza Congreso. This photograph is of the street in Flores, now a part of Buenos Aires to which it was annexed in 1887. 112 AVENIDA MANUEL MONTES DE OCA. THIS is the main street of the district of the city named Barracas. Barracas is the name given to one of the southern parts of the city. Montes de Oca is a characteristic principal thoroughfare of a suburban district, broad, with rows of sycamore trees planted between the sidewalk and the road. 114 115 PASEO DE JULIO IN 1888. THIS photograph by H. G. Olds gives us an idea what this street was like twenty-nme years ago. As can be here seen, ''white wings'' existed in Buenos Aires at that time. 116 117 PASEO DE JULIO, 1907. NOTE the great contrast between this and the preceding picture. It is the same street. The unseemly buildings have been replaced by shady boule- vards, with fountains, statues, and flowerbeds. This statue depicts Indians captured by the ■ Spaniards. Its name is ''Captivity.'' 119 STATUE IN THE PLAZA LOREA. B UENOS AIRES has rightfully deserved the appellation, ''The Athens of America." It abounds in statues and monuments, the works of art of Italian sculptors. Most of these statues are sculptured in Genoa and transported at a great expense to Buenos Aires. Rosario with its great Italian colony is rapidly coming to the front as a center of sculptural art. Many statues and monuments that have been placed in the Bonaerense parks and cemeteries in late years are the work of Rosarino artists. The name of this statue is **The Desire for Knowledge." 1 20 121 STATUE OF "DOUBT." THIS masterpiece is situated in the Plaza San Martin. 122 123 STATUE IN PALERMO PARK. THIS is a beautiful piece of chiseled marble named ''Farewell." 124 125 LOLA MORA FOUNTAIN. 126 STATUE OF GEORGE WASHINGTON. THE name of the North American patriot is synonymous with liberty, and therefore is dear to Argentina hearts in the same way as is Bolivar, Sucre, Garibaldi, and others. 128 129 LAVALLE MONUMENT. THIS monument stands in the Plaza of the same name. The building in the left background is the Law Courts. The street in the center background is Tucuman, looking westward. Lavalle was an Argentine patriot and was one of the six men that ruled the country in conjunction between the years 1828 and 1834. GARIBALDI STATUE. HIS memorial to Giuseppe Garibaldi was erected by the Italian colony. Gari- baldi once lived in Buenos Aires during his adventurous career. 132 133 SAN MARTIN STATUE. NO Argentina city is complete without a statue dedicated to the memory of the Father of Argentine Independence. There is scarcely a city in the whole republic that does not possess one of these memori- als, and also a plaza to the Liberator. San Martin was one of the great men of South America, yet the custom of attaching his name to the finest park and statue in every Argentine city, as well as to cocktails, is to the stranger as monotonous as it is to the native, patriotic. This great general was born in Ybicui, in Paraguay. The Plaza San Martin is at the end of the Calle Florida. On it are the American EmbaSvSy, the Plaza Hotel, and the gigantic private palaces of the families Basualdo, Paz, and Anchorena. The last-named one covers a whole city block and is seen in the background. 134 135 FRENCH MONUMENT. IT is customary in some South American cities for each foreign colony to present the municipahty with a monument represent- ing the nation from which the colony is from. In Buenos Aires, the French monument is the best of these. 136 137 ENTRANCE TO THE RECOLETA. RECOLETA is the name generally applied to the Cementerio del Norte (Northern Cemetery) and is the favorite burial place of the Portefio (Buenos Aires) aristocracy. In Argentina and most South Ameri- can countries, the wealthy dead are interred in vaults; those of the poorer families are buried in the ground with a stone slab over their grave, and with a cross to mark the headpiece; the very poorest are placed in niches in the cemetery walls, one on top of another like the catacombs. 138 139 A STREET OF THE DEAD. THIS is a typical street in the Recoleta. The individual tombs are often costly elaborations, many of which are of marble, the figures being sculptured by artisans of Genoa or of Rosario. To the writer, Recoleta seems a most gruesome place, especially at midday when it is nearly empty of visitors, and the summer sun beats with its blinding glare upon the houses of the dead. This lugubrious effect is still more enhanced by the presence of black cats, which, like evil spirits, dart among the tombstones. AYERZA MONUMENT, RECOLETA. THIS is undoubtedly one of the finest works of art in the Recoleta. 142 143 JOSE SEMINO VAULT, RECOLETA THIS is one of the better class vaults of the Recoleta. 144 DORREGO ORTIZ BASUALDO TOMB, RE- COLETA. THE Basualdo family is one of the wealthi- est of Buenos Aires. The final rest- ing place of this member of the family is the acme of art and originality. 146 147 SANTO DOMINGO CHURCH. This House of God dates from Colonial times. 148 149 SANTA CATALINA DE SENA CHURCH. THIS edifice dedicated to the worship of the Christian religion likewise dates from the Colonial period. 150 INTERIOR OF SAN NICOLAS CHURCH. THIS church has the most superb in- terior decorations of any in Buenos Aires. 152 CHURCH OF THE CONCEPCION. THIS church is an old-timer. Its exterior is plain. It is surmounted by a tile dome, with dark blue squares on a white background. 154 CHURCH OF SAN SALVADOR. THIS large church is very popular. It is situated on Callao Street not far from the aristocratic residential sec- tion. 156 157 BASILICA OF THE CONCEPCION, BEL- GRANO. BELGRANO is a suburb of the Argentine metropolis, the abode of many Enghsh famihes. This handsome church is near the center of the district. 158 \ WHEAT ELEVATORS. BUENOS AIRES is one of the great wheat ports of the world. From the appear- ance of its elevators, one might imagine oneself to be in Fort William or Duluth. Bahia Blanca also has immense wheat elevators, the largest in Argentina being located there. i6o i6i BASUALDO PALACE. BUENOS AIRES boasts of a few of the finest private residences in existence. Three of these should take the blue ribbon, namely the palatial residences of Sefiors Basualdo, Paz, and Anchorena. All three are situated on the Plaza San Martin. Tills is the palatial residence of Sefior BasualdOe 162 PAZ PALACE. THIS palace of Senor Paz is indeed a paragon. It much resembles the pal- ace of Baron Rothschild in Vienna. Take notice of the decorations of the chimneys. The Argentino has a knack of spend- ing his money to the best advantage. This residence is a testimony. 164 A BUENOS AIRES RESIDENCE. THIS house is built in a district of the city where one is not cramped too much for room. It is more on the style of a country home. i66 167 HOUSE OF THE COLONIAL PERIOD. THIS house was built when Buenos Aires was a colony of Spain. Notice its humbleness when compared with the palatial abodes of today. No doubt its occupants were just as happy, as are the high- brows who reside at the present time on the Plaza San Martin or on the Avenida Alvear. 169 HOME OF THE TYRANT ROZAS. THIS rambling building, the home of Rozas, has been torn down. It was formerly situated in what is now Palermo Park. Juan Manuel Rozas is one of the most interest- ing figures in Argentine history. For seventeen years (1835-1852), he was Dictator of Argentina. He was overthrown, and took refuge in England, where he died in 1877. 170 171 HOUSE WHERE ROZAS WAS BORN. IT is still standing. Its location is on the western outskirts of Buenos Aires. It is a good example of Bonaerense country house of the Colonial period. Here in 1793, Juan Manuel Rozas was born. 172 PALERMO PARK. THIS is the great park of Buenos Aires, likewise the corso of the elite on Sunday afternoons. It is a beautiful park with great wide drives, artificial lakes teeming with black swans, ibis, and other aquatic birds, with palms, and trees of the temper- ate zone, with beautiful flowerbeds and shrubs. On its benches, at dusk, lovers hold their amours. It is well policed, and patrolled, and although there seems to be no speed limit as to automobiles, there is rarely an accident. 174 175 ARTIFICIAL LAKE IN PALERMO PARK. Note the swans both black and white. 176 177 LLAMAS AT THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN. pE zoological garden at Buenos Aires is an institution that every Porteno should be proud of. A zoologist of the Smithsonian Institute told the writer that no other zoological garden in the world is in the same class with that of Buenos Aires. The writer has visited many zoological gardens and agrees with what he was told by the Smithsonian zoologist. There is an excellent zoological garden at La Plata. It has for years been the custom, when two animals of the same species are presented to the garden at Buenos Aires to send one to La The vile animals in the picture are llamas or Peruvian sheep. When approached too closely it is their mean habit to spit an evil smelling fluid on the person. They likewise delight in urinating on the unsuspecting stranger. Plata. 178 179 "NUMA" AND "SABOR." THE lion house swelters on a summer day. The lions on such occasions approach the bars to get a breath of fresh air. Some of these felines are remarkable specimens. i8o ITINERANT CIGAR VENDOR. THIS class of people, the majority being of Italian birth or extraction, pay but a small license for the privilege of toting a kit. They mostly ply their wares in the district named Boca, at the docks and under the arcades of the Paseo de Julio, where Italians and seamen resort. Their wares are vile, and many of the so-called Toscanas are but spurious imitations manufactured locally. This ''Dago'' carries a pouch for his change. 183 PEDDLERS OF BREAD AND VEGETABLES. THESE men go from door to door hawking their wares. Their approach is herald- ed by loud cries. As a rule they are the employed agents of petty mer- chants, and get a commission on their sales. Men engaged in this business are mostly Levantines, Greeks, Syrians, and Turks. 1 85 GARLIC AND ONION PEDDLER. THIS type of itinerant vendor represents the lowest type of immigrant — the Rus- sian Jew. Not only is lower Fifth Avenue, New York, a paradise for this species of Kike, but they have recently found that Buenos Aires is a suitable place to install their inborn filthy habits. There is a veritable colony of Russian and Galician Jews on the Calles Ombii and Junin. The older specimens of the race wear corkscrew sideburns, and the only time they get their faces washed is when it rains on them. i86 i87 TYPICAL BAR, BUENOS AIRES. THOUGH it is seldom that one sees a drunken Argentino on the streets in Buenos Aires, yet he is by no means a teetotaler, as can be brought to evi- dence by the myriads of bars that exist in the Argentine metropolis. The Argentino takes his drinks seated, and like the European he takes his time to imbibe them, relishing each swallow. Thus while bars exist everywhere, they are em- ployed mainly as service bars, where the mixolo- gist concocts and mixes the imbibation, and where the white-aproned waiter sets his tray while wait- ing for the libation. Soft drinks are drunk as much as are alcoholic ones, the favorites of this nature being grenadine, strawberry, or rasp- berry syrup to which is added carbonated water and ice. As in the United States, they are par- taken of through a straw. The bar in the photograph (taken by H. G. Olds) is that in the Rotisserie Sportsman, a restaurant of Epicurean delights. i88 THE RIACHUELO. THIS is the name given to the Matanzas River at the districts Barracas and Boca. It flows into the River Plate at Boca, and on it anchor many trans- atlantic freighters. Its banks are lined with sail boats which have come from the up-river ports. The Riachuelo always presents an animated scene. On the south side is the municipality of Avellaneda, quite distinct from Buenos Aires. 190 THE RIACHUELO. HIS photograph shows the bridge be- tween the Buenos Aires district of Barracas and the town of Avellaneda, which is seen at the right. 192 STATUE OF AVELLANEDA, AVELLANEDA. THE town and commune of Avellaneda, lie directly south of Buenos Aires across the Riachuelo from the district named Barracas, and had a population of 146, 415 inhabitants in 191 5. Avellaneda is a rough place, and has a bad name, on account of the many tough characters residing there. Avellaneda is named in honor of an Argentine president, Dr. Nicolas Avellaneda, whose beauti- ful statue here appears as a tribute to his memory from a loving public. He was Chief Executive of Argentina from 1874 1880. 194 PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. AN Argentine province is a geographical and political division corresponding to one of our states. They vary greatly in size, and are divided into numerous departments equivalent to our counties. Each province has its capital where the legislature meets. The central government does not hold as much power over the provinces as ours does over our states, thereby making each province more autonomous. The Province of Buenos Aires, which should not be confounded with the city of that name (each being a totally different political division) is the largest province of the republic, having an area of 117,821 square miles. It is about the size of New Mexico, twice the size of either Michi- gan or Florida, and 9000 square miles larger than the combined area of all the New England States and New York. In 191 5 its population numbered 2,048,786 inhabitants. The larger portion of the province presents the aspect of a large treeless plain, given up to the cultivation of wheat and to the grazing of live 196 stock. This plain which rises at the rate of three feet a mile as it runs westward, to the eye appears to be a perfectly level monotony. In the southern part of the province are a series of high hills, barren and rolling, whose culminating peak is the Sierra de Tandil, 1476 feet high. There are numerous small rivers and creeks, all flowing sluggishly, on account of the trivial variation in altitudes of the plain, and it is in the neighborhood of these that are to be found practically the only trees in the province not planted by the hands of man. They form a fringe along the river banks. In the south- eastern and eastern parts of the province we may make an exception, for here and there on the land- scape, a great distance apart from each other, grew single trees, large, and shady, and visible for miles, the ombii, whose wood is worthless, and whose only excuse for usefulness is that, under- neath their spreading foliage, they afforded a pleasant shade for the Gaucho to take his siesta. The province has a coast line of 900 miles on the Atlantic and on the River Plate. It has no good harbors. An artificial basin has been built at Ensefiada, the port of La Plata, and a naval harbor has been built at Puerto Belgrano. Bahia Blanca has a harbor, its port town being named Ingeneiro White, from which large shipments of grain are exported. The province is well supplied with railroads, of w^hich there are ten different companies operating. The chief one of these, which also is the leading 197 railway of Argentina, is the Ferrocarril Sud (South- ern Railway). It networks the province of Buenos Aires with its antennas. La Plata is the capital of the province, and is likely to remain so. Two other cities are covetous of that honor, Bahia Blanca, the great wheat port, and Mar del Plata, the summer resort. 198 COUNTRY HOUSE, PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. THESE country scenes are photographs from different estancias in the Province of Buenos Aires. The great majority of Argentine millionaires made their money from cattle raising or from wheat. Land was cheap, the pastures good, and the climate such that cattle could roam in the open the whole year around. To-day, as land is comparatively expensive, no great fortunes are going to be made through these occupations as formerly. Many of the great stockmen reside in Buenos Aires, and make several annual visits to their estancias. Some of these have fine country dwellings, where the proprietor sojourns during his visit. The Argentine estanciero is a true lord, and lives in a regal way. The house in this photograph is a good type of better class ranch house. 200 201 COUNTRY HOUSE, PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. 202 203 ESTANCIA ''SAN JACINTO." THE owner of this estancia is so opulent that he can aflford to have his private chapel on his ranch, where the priest <:omes Sundays to hold mass for the laborers. This tree-bordered foot-path leads to the country house. To the right can be seen the chapel. 204 205 ESTANCIA "SAN FERNANDO." OME of the country seats of Argentine millionaires are chateaux. San Fernando is one of the finest in the republic. 206 207 ESTANCIA "LOS REMEDIOS." 208 209 ESTANCIA "SANTA CATALINA." 2IO 211 ESTANCIA VILLA ELISA/' THIS country seat is situated on the Southern Railroad a short distance north of La Plata. The estate abounds with groves of eucalyptus trees, has broad alUes of shade trees, and has a park with numerous statues. A creek flows through the estate and on a pier in the middle of it, stands the statue of a nude goddess. 212 213 ESTANCIA "EL SOCORRO." « THE estancia El Socorro is in the north- ern part of the Province of Buenos Aires, near the boundary Hne of the Province of Santa Fe. It is on the Central Argentina Railroad, i6i miles north of the city of Buenos Aires, and i8 miles north of Pergamino. The soil here is rather sandy, as can be seen by the pines, hemlocks, and agaves in this photo- graph. 215 FLOCK OF SHEEP ON "EL SOCORRO." 2l6 SHEEP ON AN ESTANCIA, PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. 2l8 219 ARGENTINE SHEEP. 220 221 GUANACOS ON AN ESTANCIA. HOUGH guanacos are raised in Pata- gonia for their wool, it is done nowhere else in Argentina. These guanacos in the photograph are raised through the of a rich proprietor. ESTANCIA "CURUMALAN/' THESE are some of the stables on the great stud farm of Curumalan. Curu- malan is in the Department of Suarez, 315 miles southwest of Buenos Aires, and 85 miles north of Bahia Blanca, on a branch line of the Southern Railroad. The surrounding country is hilly, bleak, and devoted to the produc- tion of wheat. 224 225 ESTANCIA "LA NEGRETA." THIS is a stud farm. The brood mares here shown are Clydesdales. 226 ESTANCIA "VILLATE OLAGUER/' THIwS is one of the largest stud farms in Argentina. Many famous race horses have come from here. 228 229 OMBU TREE ON ESTANCIA "VILLATE OLAGUER." THIS is a fine photograph of the great tree, the ombii, whose wood is worth- less but which gives cool shade in the blazing midday of the Argentine campo. This tree is indigenous to Argentina. 230 231 BULL STABLE ON AN ARGENTINE ESTANCIA. THIS is a type of better class bull stable on estancia in the Province of Buenos Aires. 232 233 PRIZE BULL, PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. 234 235 DAIRY FARAI, ESTANCIA "TAMBO LA FLORIDA." The cows in this picture are Durhams. 236 237 DAIRY COWS, ESTANCIA CONSTITU- CION." THESE milch cows are of various breeds, the majority being mongrels. Their cream is sent to La Martona creamery, while the milk is used to feed the calves, and to supply the families of the laborers. 238 239 HEREFORD CATTLE AT ESTANCIA FIDELA." 240 241 PRIZE CATTLE AT AN ARGENTINE FAIR. OTE the size and majestic appearance of the bulls. 243 RANCH OF THE FRIGORIFICO "LA BLANCA." A FRIGORIFICO is a cold storage and meat packing plant. Many have their own ranches. On some of these large ranches, in the central and western parts of the Province of Buenos Aires, are countless thousands of cattle. This photograph gives an excellent likeness of an Argentine landscape in its natural state. 244 245 A TROPERO. HIS is the name given to the vocation of the bewhiskered gentleman in this photo- graph. Tropero means cowboy. 246 247 GAUCHOS. HESE are cowboys. They do the same functions as do their prototypes in North America. 248 249 PLOWING SCENE. LOWING in Argentina is done mostly by oxen, although in some of the larger estates it is done by steam. 250 251 THE RETURN FROM THRESHING. 252 253 STRAW STACKS. HESE are not haystacks, but wheat straws after the grain has been threshed. They are baled, and shipped away as bedding for stock. 254 255 BRINGING WHEAT TO THE RAILROAD ESTANCIA "SAN PASCUAL." 257 SACKS OF WHEAT AT AN ARGENTINE RAILROAD STATION. THESE mountainous sacks of wheat are awaiting the arrival of a freight train to take them to Bahia Blanca or to Buenos Aires to be shipped to Europe. 258 259 PULPERIA ^^EL OMBTJ." THIS is a typical pulperia (store) of the Argentine campo (plain). The storekeeper sells such necessities to the Gauchos as wax, leather thongs, candles, soap, smoked meat, and matches, and lux- uries such as vile cigarettes, warm beer, and fiery liquor. The pulperia is a rendezvous of the Gauchos, who in idle times come thither to spm their yarns and to sing songs of the campo. To the right of the photograph is a giant ombii tree, which gives the name to this pulperia. Its branches and twigs are destitute of leaves, they having been devoured by the locusts, which pest frequently assails agricultural Argentina, doing millions of pesos* worth of damage. 260 26l PLAZA AND CHURCH AT QUILMES. OUILMES is a city of 15,000 inhabitants on the Southern Railroad, eleven miles south of Buenos Aires. It is also con- nected with that city by trolley cars. Quilmes owes its importance to the fact that here is located the largest brewery in South America, the Argentine Brewery. This brewery has a paid-up capital of $3,852,000. Its stockhold- ers are mostly Englishmen, and many people of this nationality are employed in it. Besides this, Quilmes has quite a large British colony. The beer manufactured here is so vile that it baffles description, yet it seems to have a large sale. There is a beach near Quilmes, where bathers disport in the waters of the River Plate. 262 < 263 LA PLATA. LA PLATA, the capital of the Province of Buenos Aires, is built on a plain about thirty miles south of the city of Buenos Aires, and five miles from the River Plate, where it has its port, Ensefiada de Barragan. In 1880, when the city of Buenos Aires was detached from the province, it became necessary to have a new provincial capital. Plans of the present city of La Plata were drawn; they were approved of July 5, 1882, and the city was founded November 29th of the same year. In 1885, the population of the city was 13,869 inhabitants. In 1909, it had grown to 95,126, and in 191 5 when the last census was taken La Plata had 111,401 inhabitants, it being the fourth city of Argentina. The population of the commune was 136,026, that of Avellaneda alone having a larger population. La Plata is laid out much after the plan of Washington, with square blocks which are divided into segments by broad avenues running at various angles. The ordinary streets have a uniform width of 55>^ feet. La Plata, being so near to Buenos Aires, is a dull, sleepy town, a nice place 264 to go for a rest. Some of its government buildings are remarkable for their size and beauty. The museum, far-famed, contains the finest anthropo- logical and palaeontological collection in the South- ern Continent. La Plata boasts of a beautiful park, a university, and an avenue shaded with the largest eucalyptus trees in South America. The leading hotel is the Sportsman. The houses are low, which gives the visitor the impression that the thirty broad avenues are broader than they really are. The city is connected with Buenos Aires by several railroads, and has an excellent train service with the Federal Capital. 265 RAILWAY STATION. THIS beautiful building, the property of the Southern Railroad, is situated near the northern end of the city. Its architect was M. Paure Dujarric, a Frenchman, whose masterpieces are the grand- stands of the Jockey Club at Palermo Park, Buenos Aires. This railway station is built of brick, and covered with white stucco. Its dome is of green tile, with ribs of white. Its restaurant is said to be the best in the city. 266 267 CASA DE JUSTICIA. This is the Provincial Court House. 268 269 LEGISLATURE. TN this large building, the provincial congress holds session. This photograph is a side view. 270 271 CAPITOL. THIS building is built of red brick, with cream- colored stucco facings. It is very imposing. 272 CITY HALL. THIS fine building with its tall tower, which is a landmark from the open plains that surround the city, is situ- ated on a large plaza at the western end of the business section of La Plata. 274 PARK, LA PLATA. THIS park, one of the loveliest in Argen- tina, is located near the eastern city limits. It is bordered on the east by the avenue of giant eucalyptus trees. The park contains an artificial lake on whose waters disport aquatic fowl. There are grottoes of imitation stone, flowerbeds of crimson and yellow cannas, and a cafe, where refreshing drinks are sold. 276 277 LA PLATA VIEWS. NORMAL SCHOOL. BANK OF THE PROVINCE OF BUENOS AIRES. 278 279 LA PLATA VIEWS. OLD RAILWAY STATION. ^ THIS is now empty and abandoned although it stands in the center of the city. STATUE OF SAN MARTIN. TN the background is the front of the Legis- lature. 280 MAR DEL PLATA. THIS city of 28,382 inhabitants is the Trouville of Argentina. It is the most fashionable seashore resort in the Western Hemisphere. It would be incongruous to compare it either with Newport or with Atlantic City. The first mentioned city, the residential place of wealthy families, and the last mentioned one, the great playground of the Atlantic States, are in an entirely different classi- fication than Argentina's Trouville. Mar del Plata is the great show place where, during three summer months, Argentina's highest society come to enjoy themselves, and to parade daily along the Rambla, the cynosure of curious eyes. Here, dressed in the latest Paris creations, beautiful girls of marriageable age promenade arm in arm, underneath the porticos of the build- ings, conscious of the amorous glances cast at them by longing men, and also conscious of their beauty, and of the pleasing effect their good taste in expensive dress produces. These are the girls that in a few years will be matrons of Buenos Aires society, and they are promenading to-day so that 282 their charms will not pass by unnoticed, but instead will act as a lure to the men they have their heart set on. In fact, this Rambla is the great human fair, represented by only the highest notch in society, ambassadors, presidents of South American republics, rich estancieros, sugar-cane planters, railroad and bank presidents, idle rich, wealthy business men, their wives, bepearled and bediamonded dowagers, remarkably beautiful girls, and handsome young matrons of the aristocracy. Mar del Plata is also represented by another class of people. For instance in Cordoba or Men- • doza, if a family of no great means, but if ambitious of social or financial embetterment, wishes to marry off a marriageable daughter to their and her advantage, Mar del Plata is the place they bring her to, even if during the winter months they are obliged to stint themselves of the very necessities of life, in order to have the cash to make a showing at this summer resort. Although many of the perennial have here their summer chalets and villas, yet much of the social life of the city centers around the Hotel Bristol, a sumptuous affair, and to the visitor, the most expensive one in South America. In its corridors, the social elite of the republic congregate to prom- enade, stand in groups to gossip, and adjourn to the cafe to indulge in a dish of ice cream, a refrescOy or a vermouth frappe. If it is not to the cafe, they hie to the casino, where they indulge in roulette, 283 as this is one of the few places in Argentina where there is a gambhng hcense. Mar del Plata is the seat of the Department of General Pueyrredon. It is on the Atlantic Ocean, 249 miles south of Buenos Aires, a seven hours' trip by express train on the Southern Railroad. It has a fine sandy beach, and although surf bath- ing is indulged in, the water is really too cool for enjoyment. It must be remarked that the great majority of visitors do not come to Mar del Plata for delectation in this exercise. The name of the town translated into English is ''Silvery Sea.'* The ocean at this place abounds in fish, which are daily shipped in large quantities to Buenos Aires. • A decade and a half ago, where the city now stands, was a hamlet among the sand dunes. Some real estate sharks launched a scheme to sell the land, and by dint of perseverant advertising, enticed the people to come here. A gambling concession was given, and, as the Latin is a natural born gambler, the lure proved attractive. There was a scarcity of potable water, but this difficulty was finally overcome by the sinking of deep wells. The season of the early months of 191 6 has been the most prosperous in the history of the city. The European conflagration prevented many of the wealthy families from visiting the European spas, so instead they repaired for the season to Mar del Plata. 284 FISHING BOATS AT MAR DEL PLATA. THESE sail boats are being dragged ashore, so that the day's catch can be sorted to be sent to Buenos Aires. 286 287 THE STRAND. A GOOD likeness of the Playa, as is called the sandy beach of Mar del Plata. In the right foreground, underneath the building with the two domes, is the Rambla, the great promenade. To the left and in the center on the top of the sand dune are the chalets of the rich. 289 LA PERAL. THIS semicircular cove is lined with bath- houses. A board walk, elevated above the beach, passes in front of their second story. The bather descends to the water by means of steps, and comes out beneath the board walk. 290 291 CHURCH, MAR DEL PLATA. THIS handsome Gothic church affords an excel- lent place for pious meditation. 292 293 BUST OF HUMBERT I. HE Italian colony in Mar del Plata is considerable and they have paid tri- bute to the memory of their assassi- nated king by erecting this bust. 294 295 MAR DEL PLATA CLUB. 296 297 HOTEL BRISTOL AND CASINO. N connection with this sumptuous hotel is a casino, where the roulette wheel offers at- tractions to the guests. 298 299 DINING-ROOM, HOTEL BRISTOL. THE uncovered tables which can be spread at a minute's notice, are where sit the clientele who wish only a coffee or a drink. 300 ANNEX OF THE HOTEL BRISTOL. THE Hotel Bristol not being large enough to house all the guests, this annex has been built to take care of them. It is one of the few buildings in Argentina built on Old English Hnes. 302 303 THE RAMBLA. ERE and under the porticoes of the buildings here shown, promenade the great human show that makes Mar del Plata so popular. 304 CORDOBA STREET. THIS is the main business street of Mar del Plata. Note the modernity of the edifices. The domed building in the left background is a branch of the Bank of the Argentine Nation. 306 BALANCING STONE, TANDIL. THE city of Tandil, population 15,000, lies in a mountainous region, 208 miles south- west of Buenos Aires. These mountains are low, but rocky, the highest altitude being only 1476 feet above the sea level. The country is very rough, and teems with giant bowl- ders. The most famous of these was the renowned rocking stone, v/hich balanced itself on the stone outcrop of the mountain every time the wind blew. This phenomenon was world famous, and the inhabitants of Tandil reaped a harvest from the money of the tourists who came to inspect this freak of Nature. February 29, 19 12, through some unknowr cause, it lost its equilibrium and rolled down the mountainside, much to the chagrin of the inhabit- ants of Tandil, who at first attributed the catas- trophe to the malice of certain persons, and came near instituting criminal action. Scientists, how- ever, stated that it lost its equilibrium through natural causes, as this would happen sooner or later. Funds were collected to have the stone replaced in its old position, but this scheme was given up, as it was found to be impracticable. 308 309 PLAZA COLON, AZUL. AZUL, a city with about 20,000 inhabit- ants, is on the Southern Railroad, 181 miles southwest of Buenos Aires, in the heart of a rich stock-raising country. It was founded in 1832 by Colonel Pedro Burgos. The name Azul means ^'blue''; there previously was an Indian hamlet here named Callvu, which also means blue. PLAZA COLONEL OLAVARRIA, OLAVARRIA. OLAVARRIA is 208 miles southwest of Buenos Aires on the main Hne of the Southern Railroad. It is today a city of about 28,000 inhabitants and is named in honor of Colonel Olavarria. 312 313 CHURCH OF SAN JOSE, OLAVARRIA . THIS imposing House of God with its twin towers is quite a landmark, as it can be seen for a considerable distance from the surrounding country. Its originality of architecture makes it so well known, that the average educated Argentino picking up a book with its illustration in it, can tell right off what it is without looking at the words. 314 CHICLANA STREET, BAHIA BLANCA. THIS is one of the main streets of Bahia Blanca, and is named after Chiclana who, with Passo and Sarratea, formed the triumvirate that ruled Argentina, 1811-1814. This city with 65,000 inhabitants is 447 miles southwest of Buenos Aires on the Southern Rail- road, being one of the termini of the main line. Its growth has been phenomenal during the past decade; in 1903 its estimated population was 11,600. Bahia Blanca is the great wheat port of Argentina, being the natural outlet. It also has a military harbor at Puerto Belgrano, besides the commercial one at Ingeneiro White where the large grain elevators are located. The city has broad streets, paved with tarred creosote blocks, and many handsome buildings, but a strong wind is apt to be blowing which chills one to the very marrow, and blows dust into one's eyes. The surrounding country is not pleasing to the eyes on account of the sand hills and the paucity of vegetation. The water supply, formerly brackish and unhealthy, has now given place to an admirable system which conveys fresh water from the Sauce Grande, fifty miles away. Bahia Blanca has a good hotel, the Sud Ameri- cano, owned by the Southern Railroad, and a new railroad station. Among the foreigners here settled are many Basques. 316 PLAZA RIVADAVIA. THIS is the largest plaza in Bahia Blanca. It is really too large and shadeless for beauty. 318 319 ALSINA STREET. T is named after Valentin Alsina, President of the Province of Buenos Aires, 1 857-1 859. It is one of the main streets of Bahia Blanca, and crosses the other main street, Chiclana. 320 321 TIGRE. IT is South America's Henley and is 21 miles north of Buenos Aires, where the las Conchas River enters the River Plate at the lower end of the Parana River delta. Tigre derives its name (Tiger) from the fact that a huge wildcat was once caught here on one of the floating islands which are common to this delta. It had probably been borne by the current of the Parana from the Chaco or Paraguay. Not only is Tigre the great pleasure boating resort, but it is also a favorite place for the inhabit- ants of Buenos Aires to spend their week-ends. There are many fine villas here, the summer homes of the wealthy. The town has good stores, and its streets present an animated scene. The Hotel Tigre is a fine modern establishment. 322 323 OPEN-AIR DINING-ROOM, HOTEL TIGRE. OWING to the almost perfect, yet very hot, summer cHmate, it is advisable to spend as much time out of doors as is possible. Many of the provincial hotels have outdoor dining-rooms, which can be immediately covered over with canvas in case of a sudden shower. 324 COUNTRY STORE, ZARATE. THIS is a typical country store of the campo small town. It is the congre- gating place for the farmers. Zarate is, however, a long straggling town, of about 10,000 inhabitants, 58 miles north of Buenos Aires, the junction of the main line of the Central Argentina Railroad with the Central of Buenos Aires Railroad. It has a naval arsenal, and a meat-canning establishment. It was founded in 1 80 1, and named after the sixteenth-century explorer, Fernando de Zarate. 326 327 CITY HALL, SAN PEDRO. AN PEDRO is a city of 24,000 inhabitants, 107 miles north of Buenos Aires on the main Hne of the Central Argentina Rail- road. 328 329 CHURCH AT SAN PEDRO. 330 331 CITY HALL AND COURTHOUSE, MERCEDES. MERCEDES is a city of 30,000 inhabi- tants, 61 miles west of Buenos Aires. It is a railroad center, the Western, the Buenos Aires Pacific, and the General Railways of Buenos Aires Pro- vince, crossing each other here. The city has many settlers of Irish extraction. 332 333 25TH STREET, MERCEDES. is an unusual thing for an Argentine city to have its streets numbered instead of named. Mercedes and La Plata are ex- ceptions to this rule. 334 335 CHURCH AT MERCEDES. 336 337 CENTRAL ARGENTINA RAILWAY STA- TION, PERGAMINO. PERGAMINO is 143 miles northwest of Buenos Aires, in the northern part of the Province of Buenos Aires. It is the junc- tion of three railroads : the Central Argen- tina, the Western, and the General Railways of Buenos Aires Province. Its population is 43,000 in- habitants, among whom are many Italians. It is a good market town, although the soil is rather thin and sandy where the city stands. The pine trees in the Plaza de Mayo have attained a great height. Pergamino has a good hotel, the Roma, where, strange to relate, one can get a room with bath. 338 339 VIEWS OF PERGAMINO. SAN NICOLAS STREET, SHOWING HOTEL ROMA ON THE RIGHT SAN NICOLAS STREET, LOOKING SOUTH 340 VIEWS OF PERGAMINO. SIDE STREET IN PERGAMINO. PLAZA— 25 DE MAYO. 342 343 THE PROVINCE OF SANTA FE. THIS long and narrow province, which extends from the meridian 28^ south to meridian 34"^ south has an area of 50,916 square miles, which is nearly equivalent to that of Alabama. Its population numbered according to the Census of 1914, 1,111,426 inhabitants, making it rank the second of all the provinces. Topographically it belongs to the pampa, its southern and central regions being a vast, monoto- nous, treeless plain. To the north a scrub growth appears on the prairie, which as the Territory of the Chaco is approached becomes a jungle wilder- ness of forest intermingled with grassy prairies and swamps. The eastern boundary is the Parana River with its innumerable channels, forming a network of marshy islands. The banks of these channels are covered with a fringe of trees. Santa Fe is fairly well watered by the numerous tribu- taries of the Parana, chief among which are the Salado, and the San Javier Rivers, but so level is the land, that these waterways fail to drain it properly. There is a stratum of salt not many 344 feet beneath the surface of the soil, which makes many of the driven wells brackish. The rainfall is ample, especially in the north, so that irrigation is unnecessary. The climate is warm, and in summer hot. Santa Fe is the great corn province as Buenos Aires is the great wheat province, but stock-raising is also an important industry. There are a few small hardwood lumber mills in the north, and in time dyewoods are bound to become an important industry as well as tannic acid, which can be extracted from the bark of the quebracho tree. Nine different railroad systems have lines in the province, the most important of which is Central Argentina. The chief city is Rosario, the second in Argen- tina. Santa Fe is the capital. Other important places are Casilda, Cafiada de Gomez, Galvez, Es- peranza. Vera, Rafaela, and Reconquista. 345 THE SANTA FE CAMPO. THIS flat, treeless landscape is typical of the western part of the Province of Santa Fe. Vast prairies extend for miles and miles as far as the eye can see. No expense is needed for the clearing of land. It is already for the plow. The two shacks are those of a new settler. He will plant poplar or eucalyp- tus trees around the spot where they now stand, and when he has made money through stock- raising or through cereals, will build a substantial home. 346 PLOWING VIRGIN SOIL. 2 1 -DISC Garr-Scott plow is used on this black soil. 348 349 TYPICAL RANCH. THIS humble abode is in the northern part of the Province of Santa Fe. Its owners belong to the lower stratum of society. The swarthy complexion of the people here shown denote a strain of Indian blood. The men of this class are good workers, but have a weakness for alcoholic beverages. They drink a substance which is sold for wine, but which in reality is diluted and sweetened alcohol, colored red by quebracho bark. Poultry, hogs, and domestic animals roam around at random, enter- ing the house. There are no stoves, and the cook- ing is done in a kettle in the open. 350 351 SACKS OF CORN AT A RAILWAY STATION. THE Province of Santa Fe is preeminently the corn-producing country of Argen- tina. Much of the land in the neigh- borhood of Rosario and of Santa Fe is owned by wealthy proprietors, who lease it to Italians in ten-acre lots and upwards. The lessees often have a prosperous year, but occasionally they as well as the lessors are great losers on account of the locust plague which periodically visits this province. 352 IL 353 DIPPING SHEEP AT ESTANCIA ''SANTA ISABEL." THE sheep ranch of Santa Isabel is in the southern part of the Province of Santa Fe on a branch line of the Buenos Aires Pacific Railroad, 231 miles north- west of Buenos Aires. 354 355 SANTA FE. THE city of Santa Fe, capital of the prov- ince of the same name, has a popu- lation of 63,000 inhabitants, and is the seventh city of Argentina. It is 300 miles northwest of Buenos Aires and 1 1 1 miles north of Rosario. It is built on a fertile plain on the west bank of the Santa Fe channel of the Parana River, navigable only for small vessels. The larger ones which come from all ports of the world anchor at the mouth of the channel, eight miles away at a place named Puerto Colastine, which is connected by rail with the capital. The writer once saw a four-master from Eastport, Maine, anchored off Puerto Colastine. Santa Fe is an old city, having been founded November 15, 1573, by Juan de Garay. Some of the older buildings, such as the churches still exist, and are worth a tour of inspection. In 1853 the first constitution of the Argentine Confederation was drawn up here, the then thirteen provinces being represented. Santa Fe has borne the reputa- tion as a center of political intrigue, which is even true at the present time. The growth of the city has 356 been slow. Rosario, much larger, and ambitious, has attempted several times in vain to wrest from it the honor of being the provincial capital. Santa Fe has three railroads entering it, and is connected with Parana by a steamship line, whose boats ply- between the two not very far distant cities twice daily. Santa Fe bears the reputation of a sleepy, dull, and rather stagnant place. This is unjust, for it is doubtful if even the streets of Bahia Blanca present a more animated appearance than Santa Fe's Calle Comercio. There is a fair hotel in the city, the Hotel Espana. Santa Fe has a university, well-paved streets, good buildings, and a new boulevard along 1 the river from whence can be seen, in the distance, the towers and spires of Parana. A brewery is about the most important factory that the city can boast of. The finest cornfields in Argentina are in the environs of the city. 357 GENERAL VIEW OF SANTA FE. 358 359 HARBOR AT SANTA FE. THIS is a harbor which has been made by dredging a portion of the Santa Fe channel of the Parana River. It is navigable only by small craft. The boat in the center of the picture is the one that plies between Santa Fe and Parana. 360 PLAZA DE MAYO. HIS is Santa Fe's most important park. The building with the tower at the left is the capitol. 362 363 NORMAL SCHOOL. 364 COMMERCE STREET. CALLE COMERCIO is the main street of Santa Fe. On it are the best retail stores and the hotels. The edifice facing us at the right is the Santa Fe branch of the Bank of the Argentine Nation. 366 367 CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO. THIS is an old relic, but its fagade has been remodeled so that it now presents a modern appearance. 368 369 CHURCH OF SAN ANTONIO. HIS is the oldest church in the city. It is interesting to the lover of antiques, and of history. 370 371 LA MERCED CHURCH. THIS is a nearly perfect production of what we call Mission architecture. The person who makes a trip to Cali- fornia and returns to go into ecstasies over the missions of Santa Barbara, San Gabriel, and others, should by all means visit Argentina or Peru. Those of Argentina are so far superior to those of California, and have a so much greater background of history, combined with folklore, that the person who once sees and visits them, at once classes those of California as mediocre and not worth looking at. 372 373 ROSARIO. ROSARIO, the metropolis of the Province of Santa Fe, the second city of Argen- tina, and the sixth of South America, had in 1914 a population of 316,914 inhabitants. It is a Parana River port, accessible to ocean-going vessels, and is 189 miles northwest of Buenos Aires, express trains covering the dis- tance in 4^ hours. It was founded by Francisco Godoy in 1725, but it dates its growth from 1854. It is commonly known as Rosario de Santa Fe, to distinguish it from Rosario de la Frontera, and numerous other Rosarios, which name seems to be a favorite in Spanish-speaking countries. It is built on a level plain, has straight streets paved with creosote blocks and cobblestones. The streets intersect each other at right angles, form- ing squares. There are fourteen plazas, but they are not centrally enough located to form breathing spaces for the wearied shopper or pedestrian. Its downtown district very much resembles that of Buenos Aires, with its narrow congested streets. There are a few fine residences in Rosario, but on the whole there is not much to interest the tourist, 374 as it is essentially a business center. About Rosario there is a genuine North American or North European activity, that is surpassed no- where else in vSouth America, excepting in Sao Paulo. There is a large Italian element, which forms about one third of the population, and whose influence is seen on the architecture of the build- ings. Rosario, not only is a great corn and stock exporting port, but is also a railroad center, has a large sugar refinery, two breweries, car shops, and numerous minor industries. It is the center of Argentine sculpture. There is plenty of money on circulation; there are great importing houses and numerous large banks. The hotels, restau- rants, cafes, theaters, and music halls are on a par with those of any city of its size. The Hotel Savoy and the Hotel Italia are modern in every respect. Adjoining Rosario on the north is a large village named Alberdi, where better-to-do people have their villas set back from the road in gardens, and thus enjoy a rural life on the outskirts of a big city. 375 EXPORTATION SECTION OF PORT WORKS, ROSARIO. 376 377 ROSARIO IN 1888. THIS picture was taken by Mr. Brooks, a pioneer photographer of Rosario, who came there in the '8o's. This gives one a good idea how the town looked in 1888, as seen from the cathedral tower looking westward up Calle Buenos Aires. This same street presents today a totally different aspect, and would be unrecognizable from the photograph, although, as can be seen, Rosario was at that time no slouch of a town. The architecture of the houses at that period was colonial Spanish, with flat roofs. To- day the architecture is a composite Italian, with many domes. The writer has met quite a few people who do not think the appearance of the Rosarino streets has changed in the last two decades. He was in Rosario in 191 3, and again in 1916, and even though there was a financial depression in Argen- tina during that period, he noticed a great change and improvement for the better in the number of new buildings that had been built in that interval. He met a friend on the street one day and said : '*What I especially notice about Rosario is the great number of new buildings that have been put up during the last three years." The Rosarino promptly answered: *'I came here twenty years ago, and it seems to me as if the streets look the same now. as they did then." 378 379 STATION OF THE PROVINCE OF SANTA FE RAILROAD. THIS is called the Estacion Frances (French Station) because the Province of Santa Fe Railroad Company is owned by French capital. The Rosario to Puerto Belgrano Railroad Company as well as the Port Works are also French-owned corporations. The round holes seen on the fagade of the gables of this depot are bullet marks from the revolution of 1893. Notice the advertisements on the electric car in the picture. Instead of putting the street names on a board at the top, the names of the articles advertised are put there, while the street nomen- clature appears in front. TRACKS OF THE CENTRAL ARGENTINA RAILROAD, ROSARIO. THE Central Argentina Railroad has a great network of lines in the Province of Santa Fe, most of them radiating from Rosario. It has two stations in Rosario, and the building with the tower to the right of this photograph surmounts the principal one. 382 383 COURTHOUSE. THIS whopper of a building is one of the largest public buildings of its kind in the world. It is an immense pile, and covers an entire city block. There are four Courts of Appeals in Argentina; one of them meets here. It is situated on the Plaza San Martin. 384 385 POLITICAL BUILDING. THE above words signify the use to which this Jefatura Politica is put. In it are held the poHtical meetings, and assemblies. The police department, secret service, and fire department also have their offices here. This is a very fine building, snow- white, and is much better looking than this repro- duction represents. 386 387 PLAZA DE MAYO. THIS mediocre park, bordered by pussy- willow trees, is the main plaza of the city. It was once a civic center, and hub of the business section, but in recent years, the latter has moved three streets to the northward, leaving the Plaza de Mayo out of the present scope of commercial activity. The building to the left of the center of this photo- graph is the city hall, while the one with towers is the cathedral. This photograph was taken in the winter (June) as can be observed by the leafless trees, and by the paucity of loafers seated on the public benches. 388 390 391 LA MATRIZ, OR CATHEDRAL. 392 393 GOVERNOR FREYRE SCHOOL. 394 395 STOCK EXCHANGE. IT is called La Bolsa. It is a building with an artistic fagade on San Lorenzo Street, not far from San Martin Street. This photograph was taken from a balcony on the second story of the Savoy Hotel. 396 LONDON AND BRAZILIAN BANK. ROSARIO teems with banks. Nearly all the standard banks of the east coast of South America have branches here. The bank shown in the photograph is at the corner of San Martin and Santa Fe Streets. San Martin is par excellence the banking street of Rosario. 398 BANK OF ITALY AND RIVER PLATE. THIS is situated at the corner of San Martin and Rioja Streets. 400 SPANISH BANK OF THE RIVER PLATE. THIS is at the corner of San Martin and Santa Fe Streets, opposite the London and Brazihan Bank. 402 403 BRITISH BANK OF SOUTH AMERICA. THIS is at the corner of San Martin and Cordoba Streets. 404 BANK OF LONDON AND RIVER PLATE. THIS building stands in the middle of a block on San Martin Street. 406 FRENCH BANK OF THE RIVER PLATE. AN exception to the rule, this bank is not situated on San Martin Street. It is at the corner of San Lorenzo and Sarmiento Streets, not far from the stock exchange. 408 409 CASTAGNINO BUILDING. THIS photograph is shown in order that the reader may see a good example of the modern Rosarino office building. This building is at the corner of Cor- doba and General Mitre Streets. 410 411 SANTA FE STREET. THIS is one of the principal retail streets of Rosario. The photograph is a likeness of this thoroughfare looking north from San Martin Street. The build- ing at the left is the London and Brazilian Bank, while that at the right is that of the Spanish Bank of the River Plate. SAN MARTIN STREET. THIS photograph is looking west on San Martin Street. At the left is the Provincial Bank of Santa Fe; at the right is the London and Brazilian Bank. 414 415 VIEWS OF ROSARIO CORDOBA STREET 416 CORDOBA STREET. CORDOBA STREET not only is the lead- ing street of the shopping district, but it is also a residential street towards its northern end. This view is taken of it looking south, about midway between the residential section and the shopping district. On the low building at the left notice the sign ''43." That is the best advertised brand of cigarettes in Argentina, and its sign is to be found in every town of the republic in monotonous conspicuousness. 418 419 BOULEVARD ORONO. HIS beautiful parkway, planted with pal- mettos and date palms, is the residen- tial street of the wealthy. It extends the length of the city from east to 420 RESIDENCE OF DR. C. BARLETT. THIS is a type of a modern Rosario house in the residential section of the city. It is on the Boulevard Orono. 422 PINASCO MANSION. THIS is a specimen of one of the finer houses of the city. Some of them are real lordly affairs; this is one of them. It is situated at the corner of the Boulevard Orono and Cordoba Street. 424 425 FERNANDEZ DIAZ RESIDENCE. is situated on Cordoba Street, opposite to the Plaza Pringles. 426 427 RESIDENCE OF DR. NICANOR ELIA. THIS, though not one of the most costly, is one of the most aristocratic-looking residences in the whole Argentine Republic. 428 429 PALATIAL RESIDENCE IN ROSARIO. 430 RESIDENCE OF DIEGO ALVEAR. HIS is in the suburbs of Rosario in a garden named the Quinta Alvear. 432 COLUMN OF VICTORY, PLAZA DE MAYO. 434 MAUSOLEUM OF MARCELINO SEMINO. IN the background of this photograph, notice the niches in the walls of the cemetery, where coffins are placed, and sealed over with a marble slab. This is reminiscent of the Old French Cemetery in New Orleans. 436 437 INDEPENDENCE PARK. THIS park is on the Boulevard Orono, at quite a distance from the center of the city. In the daytime it is a quiet place, but is a favorite drive in the evening. About ii p.m. is when there is most life there, for at that hour a band plays in front of the cafe, which then is filled with people. 438 439 SWIMMING POOL AT SALADILLO. SALADILLO is a pleasure resort several miles south of the city, a poor imitation of Coney Island. It is frequented mostly by the poorer classes of people who hie thither in throngs Sunday afternoons to swim, take rides on the roller coaster, toboggan, drink beer, and to eat ice-cream cones. It is a good place to swim, but not preferred by the better classes on account of the riffraff that is always present to indulge in that class of sport. White men, negroes, and the scum of Sicily all mingle together in the swimming pool. 440 441 MONTES RESIDENCE AT ALBERDI. ALBERDI is a place of about 10,000 inhabitants adjoining Rosario on the north. Many fine residences of wealthy Rosarinos are located there, their pro- prietors going to their business daily on the trolley cars or in their automobiles. 442 443 TERRITORY OF THE CHACO. THIS political division with an area of 52,74.1 square miles had in 19 14 a population of 58,512 inhabitants, in- cluding Indian tribes. Its population in 1895 was estimated at 10,422. The territory lies directly north of the Province of Santa Fe and comprises the southern part of which is known as the Gran Chaco. The latter, the greater part of which is within the limits of Paraguay, is a well- watered wilderness of forest, bushes, and palmetto thickets, interspersed with grassy prairies and dismal swamps. Its inhabitants are wild Indians, some of which are believed to be cannibals, but this supposition remains to be proved. Most attempts to cross the Paraguayan Chaco have met with failure. Ayolas crossed it in 1536, and Irala in 1548. Since then it has never been crossed; several attempts have been made to do so, but the parties were massacred. As the Gran Chaco is practically an unknown country, there is but scant literature on it. A missionary, Mr. W. Barbrooke Grubb, spent several years among the Indians of the Chaco and wrote two books about 444 it, A Church in the Wilder7tess and A^i Unknown People in a7t Unknow7t Land. Although much of the Argentine Chaco is still unexplored, yet the southern part of it is well known, where there are a few small lumber mills, and where the quebracho bark is used for tannic acid. Across this part of the Chaco runs the Province of Santa Fe Railroad and a branch of the Central Northern Railroad. The only town of any importance in the terri- tory is Resistencia, the capital, a town of ii,ooo inhabitants, but a short ways inland from its port Barranqueras, which is across the Parana River from Corrientes. 445 PALMARES, TERRITORY OF CHACO. PALMARES is a name given to the pal- metto wildernesses that are to be found everywhere in the Chaco. These pal- mares form veritable islands of pal- mettos among the savannas and grassy plains of this little explored country. 446 447 INDIAN TOLDA. THE Indians of the Argentine Chaco belong to the Toba tribe and Hve in grass huts called toldas. These toldas are not high enough to permit the inmate to rise higher than a sitting position. They serve more as a shelter and sleeping place than as a house, for the life of the Tobas is spent out of doors. The tufted grass which forms the sides of the tolda shown in the picture is what in the United States and especially in California is erroneously known as Pampa Grass, This grass, with its white fuzzy tufts, is a native of the north- ern provinces and territories of Argentina where there are no pampas. Gourds and earthenware vessels of native pottery form the household utensils of the Tobas. 448 449 TOBA WOMEN. THE women of the Toba tribe have more pretensions to beauty than the greasy squaw of North America. Like the latter, however, cleanliness is with them an unknown quality. Note the blushing maiden in this photograph holding the skin of a puma. The large tree in the background is a guayavi. The Toba men often make raids on the estancias of the white settlers, carrying away stock, but they are not as frequent as formerly. The Tobas are quick to become civilized, and many are found in the towns following the occupations of porters, and plantation workers. They are noted for their endurance, and also for their laziness. 450 451 TERRITORY OF MISIONES. THIS geographical and political division is the northeastern outpost of Argentine civilization. It is bordered on the north by Paraguay and Brazil; on the east by Brazil, on the south by Brazil, and on the west by Pa.raguay and the Province of Corrientes. It has more in common with Argentina than with Brazil on account of it being between the Parana and the Uruguay Rivers, the same as the provinces of Corrientes and Entre Rios. Misiones has a population of 49,668 inhabitants scattered over an area of 11,282 square miles (approximately that of Maryland and Delaware combined). The only place of any importance in the territory is Posadas, the capital, a dull place of 9000 inhabitants perched on the top of a red clay hill on the Alto Parana River, which here is about two miles wide. A ferry boat crosses the river at Posadas to the Paraguayan city of Villa Encarnacion, carrying on it the through train from Buenos Aires to Asun- cion. The only railroad in Misiones is the North- eastern Argentine Railway. Posadas is connected 452 by two lines of steamers plying on the Alto Parana River with Corrientes. The climate of Misiones is sub-tropical, as well as the vegetation. It is a well-watered rolling land of forests intermingled with grassy savannas, well adapted for stock raising. The chief industry seems to be yerba mate or Paraguayan tea. The leaves when dried and steeped form the staple beverage of the inhabitants of this region. The mate plantations are called yerbales. The soil of Misiones is a red clay. Oranges and lemons thrive to perfection. Among the wild plants, the most conspicuous are the yellow canna and the caladium or elephant's ear. The name Misiones (Missions) owes its origin to the fact that this country was first settled by the Jesuit fathers, who established here great stone churches, of which to-day nothing is standing excepting the vine-clad ruins. The principal one of these ruins is San Ignacio, a resort for tourists during the winter months (June to September). In Misiones there are many Indians, mestizos, and Brazilians. In recent years there has been quite an immigration from Paraguay, owing to insecurity of life and of property in that revolution bedridden republic. 453 FALLS OF THE IGUAZU. THESE are the chief attraction to the tourist in the Territory of Misiones. They are near the mouth of the Iguazii River which flows into the Alto Parana about two hundred miles above Posadas. The falls are both Brazilian and Argentine as the Iguazii River marks the boundary between these two countries. A boat line runs from Posadas to a landing about fifteen miles from the falls, at which place the tourist goes by carriage to Puerto Aguirre, where there is a hotel of limited accommodations for those who desire to see the falls. These falls are greater than Niagara, and in this world are surpassed only by the Victoria Falls in Africa. The drop of the Iguazii Falls is 211 feet, against Niagara's 159, and their breadth is miles against Niagara's mile. The writer has seen both, and although he considers the Niagara Falls more majestic, those of Iguazii have them faded into the background as to scenery. The Iguazii Falls are a series of falls spread over a wide area and are not confined to two great chutes of water like in Niagara. Part vv^ay down on the drop of the Iguazii Falls rocky ledges are met which stop the impetus, and divide the stream in two. At the bottom of the falls and up the sides of the chasm grow mighty tropical trees. A peculiar feature of the Iguazii Falls is that while in some places the falls have one sheer drop to the bottom, in other places ledges occur which make the falls a succession of leaps. These photographs represent only a partial view. 454 455 ANOTHER VIEW OF THE IGUAZU FALLS. 456 457 PROVINCE OF ENTRE RIOS. THIS province derives its name (Between the Rivers) from the fact that it is a peninsula, bounded on the west by the Parana River, and on the east by the muddy waters of the Uruguay. It is often spoken of as the Argentine Mesopotamia, which nomen- clature is very accurate. The soil of Entre Rios is as rich as any in Argentina; the country is well watered, and no part of the province is incapable of cultivation unless it is the swampy land at its southern point where the two rivers join to form the River Plate. About 5000 square miles of the northern part of Entre Rios is a vast forest, that of Montiel. Unfortunately there is not much lumber industry, the products of this forest being used for fuel instead. Entre Rios is commercially a stock-raising country, and in its ports are many saladerias or beef -packing establishments. Among the most important ones are those located at Colon and at vSanta Elena. Fruit growing is an extensive industry. The area of the province is 28,784 square miles, nearly the equivalent of that of South Carolina. 458 Its population, which in 1796 was estimated at 11,600 had augmented to 419,476 in 1914, making it rank fourth among the Argentine provinces. The capital is Parana; other cities of im- portance are Concordia, Gualeguaychu, Gualeguay, Concepcion del Uruguay, La Paz, Basavilbaso, and Nogoya. 459 ENTRERRIANO LANDSCAPE. 460 PARANA RIVER LANDSCAPE, PROVINCE OF ENTRE RIOS. THIS photograph was taken from the Entrerriano side of the Parana River. The shore in the distance is that of the Province of Santa Fe. The tree in the foreground is an algarrobo. 462 463 SANTA ELENA. HIS small town is built on the high bank of the Parana River a few hours north of Parana, the capital of Entre Rios. It has a meat-canning factory. 464 465 PARANA RIVER PASSENGER FERRY. THIS boat, the Alcaraz, plies twice daily between the cities of Parana and Santa Fe, and vice versa. This photograph was taken on the Santa Fe shore at Puerto Colastine. The high bluffs in the far distance is the Entrerriano shore. The whole Parana littoral of Entre Rios is distinguished by its high bluffs, against the low-lying swampy shore of Santa Fe. 466 467 ENTRERRIANO SHORE OF THE PARANA RIVER. THE towns are mostly built on the high bluffs back from the river, and invisible from the passing steamboats. Steep roads run down the banks to the muddy shores of the river. 468 469 EUROPA STREET, PARANA. PARANA, the capital of Entre Rios, is a quiet, sleepy town of about 35,000 inhabitants. The population of the commune is 71,346. Parana is on the river of the same name, about two hours distant by ferry from Santa Fe. It is a port of call for all river steamers. The city is set about a mile back from the landing stage at the river, which is connected with the center of the business district by a trolley line. Parana possesses many hand- some public buildings, has several broad shady avenues, and a fine park, the Parque Urquiza, named in honor of the president of the Argentine Confederation, Justo Jose de Urquiza, an Entrer- riano who met his death by assassination. The cathedral at Parana is, to the writer's idea, the finest, though not the most costly, in Argentina. The bishop is Dr. Abel Bazan y Bustos. Parana has a good hotel, the Gransac. Parana was founded in 1730; from 1852 to 1861, it was capital of the Argentine Federation; since 1883 it has been capital of the province, suc- ceeding Concepcion del Uruguay to that elevation. This is a photograph of the Calle Europa, one of the main streets of the city, looking west, away from the retail section. 470 471 PLAZA DE MAYO, PARANA. THIS is the main square of the city. The view here shown looks north, and was taken from a window of the Gransac Hotel. The religious edifice with the twin towers is the cathedral. Around this plaza centers the life of the city, and here in the evenings the band plays. The east end of the plaza is bounded by a street on which are the popular cafes, where the Paranenses sit evenings at iron-topped tables placed on the sidewalk and listen to the music of the band. 472 CATHEDRAL. THE cathedral of Parana, snow-white, surmounted by a tall dome, presents a very pleasing appearance. At each side of the fagade rises a graceful, slender tower. The ceiling of the interior is azure blue, which is a harmonious contrast with the whiteness of columns which divide the aisles. In Parana it gets very hot, but the interior of the cathedral is always cool, and affords an extra appropriate place for pious meditation. 474 475 CHURCH OF SAN MIGUEL. NEXT to the cathedral, this place of Holy Worship is the most important in the Entre Rios capital. Its ex- terior, tomblike, and morbid, has, however, a majestic appearance. It is an old- timer, one of the first built churches in Parana. 476 477 CAPITOL, PARANA. A CASUAL observer of this photograph would have no trouble in telling offhand what this building is. It is a long, severe edifice, European in appearance, and covers the area of a city block. 478 URQUIZA STREET, PARANA. THIS forlorn, poverty-stricken street, in great contrast to the fine ones of the city proper, is situated on the outskirts of Parana. Its wretched, morgue-hke houses can find no parallel in morbidity, unless they are those on a certain ghoulish lane in the village of San Diego, Province of Pinar del Rio, Cuba. 480 PROVINCE OF CORDOBA. THIS central province of Argentina has an area of 62,160 square miles, being somewhat smaller than the State of Missouri. In size it is second in Argen- tina, and in population it is third. In 191 5 it had 'J2>^,'j2"i inhabitants against 44,052 in 1779. The greater part of the country is pampa, but is watered by several fairly good-sized rivers, whose volume of water varies according to the wet and dry season. These rivers go by the names of Primero (ist), Segundo (2d), Tercero (3d), Quarto (4th), and Quinto (5th). They are fed by springs, rise in the rocky mountainous country in the west of the province, and have their water- courses marked by deep gorges. In recent years, they have been used in irrigation projects, many large dams having been built to supply water to a country which without water would be an arid waste. The Primero and Segundo empty into the Mar Chiquita, a brackish, semi-saline lake in the northern part of the province, into which the Saladillo River flowing southward from Santi- ago del Estero also empties. The Tercero and 482 Quarto join, and forming one stream flow into the Parana midway between Rosario and Santa Fe. The Quinto loses itself in some salt marshes in the Province of San Luis. Cordoba is essentially a wheat country, and by dry-farming considerable crops are sometimes grown. On the other hand, the devastation through locusts is apt to be great. The writer has seen this country when there was not a single green leaf or blade of grass left standing, but such phenomena as that rarely occur. This was in the summer of 191 6. West of the city of Cordoba, the low, rocky mountains begin. The aspect is like that of the Austrian Province of Kiistenlande, commonly known to us as the Karst, where great rocks are strewn for miles and miles over the landscape. The sagebrush, chaparral, and mesquite bushes, with an occasional red laurel, are similar to the growth on the southern slopes of the Southern California mountains. The rivers are also like those of Southern California, turbulent, and narrow, jumping over rocks forming rapids and cataracts. The climate of the Province of Cordoba is hard to beat. It is undoubtedly the most salubrious in all South America, and to its tovv^ns and the Sierra de Cordoba, for such is the name of the rocky mountain chain, come people from all over Argentina in search of health especially those with tuberculosis and pulmonary afflictions. The northwestern part of the province is an arid 483 desert containing the Salinas Grandes, large salty plains where not a green thing grows, nor any liv- ing thing inhabits excepting several species of poisonous snake, notably among which is the cascabel, an ophidia of the rattlesnake family. Seven different railroad companies have lines in the province, the most important of which are the Central Argentina and the Central of Cordoba. The cities are few, and of but little importance, although there are a great number of villages. Besides the city of Cordoba, which is the capital, the only places of importance are Dean Funes, San Francisco, Bell-Ville, Rio Quarto, Jesus Maria, Cruz del Eje, Villa Maria, and Vicuiia Mackenna. 484 CORDOBA. THE city was founded in 1573 b}^ Luis Geronimo de Cabrera. Its present population is over 135,000 inhabitants, not including 25,000 people who live in the suburbs. It is the third city in Argentina, and next to Buenos Aires, the finest. It is built in a depression formed by the valley of the Rio Primero, from which the city obtains its water supply. A dam, named the Dique San Roque, twelve miles northwest of Cordoba checks the flow of this river, the water being brought to Cordoba by conduits. The country surrounding Cordoba is a high level plateau bounded on the south and on the west by mountains named the Sierra de Cordoba. Cordoba has been truthfully styled the ''Rome of Argentina'' as it was for many years the center of Jesuitical faith in the southern part of South America. In the city to-day there is said to be several thousand priests, monks, and members of various religious organizations. They are seen 485 everywhere. The city literally bristles with the spires, and domes of many churches. With the exceptions of Bahia and Lima, no other South American city can vie with it in the sumptuous luxury of its Houses of God. One of the five universities of Argentina is located at Cordoba. It was founded June 19, 1613, by Father Fernando de Trejo y Sanabria, and to it was brought from Lima in 1765, the first printing press in Argentina. From this university have graduated many men famous in South American annals, one of which was the noted tyrant of Paraguay, Dr. Caspar Rodriguez de Francia. Cordoba presents an antique appearance with many of its houses dating from the Colonial period, but these are fast giving way to handsome modern structures. There are fine boulevards, a zoologi- cal garden laid out in the bottom of a deep ravine, a fine theater, two good hotels, and several large banks. Bridges connect the city with its suburbs, which lie mostly on the north side of the Rio Primero. Cordoba is famous through Argentina for its breweries, more on account of the purity of the artesian water used in the manufacture of its beer than for the size of the breweries. There are three of them, that of Rio Segundo, w^hich has a branch factory at the town of Rio Segundo, that of PoUak & Brueck, and that of Ahrens. How- ever, the leading industry of the city is its flour 486 mills, that of Minetti Brothers being an exceed- ingly large one. The photographs here shown hardly do justice to the city, which is a remarkably fine one. 487 PARTIAL VIEW OF CORDOBA. The church at the left is that of San Francisco. 488 489 VIEW OF CORDOBA, LOOKING SOUTH. THE large building at the right is the cathedral. The church directly in front, with the belfry, is Santa Teresa, while the two-towered building in the left background is the church of La Compafiia. 490 491 CENTRAL OF CORDOBA RAILWAY STATION. THIS station is in the northwestern part of the city at a suburb named Alta Cordoba. The Central of Cordoba Railroad does not descend into the pocket in which the city is built, but has its rail- road yards, depot, and car shops on the top of the level plateau. NORTHERN MARKET. HE Mercado Norte, so is this market dis- tinguished, is not far from the Central of Cordoba Railway station. 494 CENTENNIAL BRIDGE. HIS bridge, named the Puente Cen- tenario, connects the city with its suburb of Alta Cordoba. It spans the Rio Primero. 496 497 BRIDGE OVER THE RIO PRIMERO. THIS traffic bridge connects Cordoba with the village of General Paz. 498 499 SAN GERONIMO STREET. THIS street is named after the patron saint of Cordoba. It was the first name of its founder, Geronimo de Cabrera. It is one of the busy streets of the city, though not the busiest, and runs in a north and south direction. On it is the Bank of the Argen- tine Nation. The large building with pillars, seen to the left of this photograph, is that of the Bank of the Province of Cordoba. 500 501 PLAZA SAN MARTIN. IT would be illogical if Cordoba did not name its principal plaza San Martin or else de Mayo, for what Argentine city does not have its foremost breathing space either named after the Guerrero or after the month in which independence was declared. This photograph is looking south. The large building at the left of the center is the cathedral; to its right, the Moorish-appearing edifice with a clock tower is the capitol. The street at the right is the main business street in the city. Its name is Dean Funes. On it, and seen in the right background, the building with the two-storied square tower is the post-office. The church with the twin towers seen to the right over the roof of the capitol is that of Santo Domingo. The church to the left of the cathedral is that of the Compafiia, while the building at the extreme left and of which only three upper stories are visible is that of the Bank of the Argentine Nation. On this plaza but not seen in this photograph, for it is behind us, is the Plaza Hotel, the foremost of the city, which boasts of an excellent cafe and restau- rant, but of an abominable management. 502 BANK OF THE ARGENTINE NATION. THIS is but a branch of Argentina's greatest bank, its headquarters being at Buenos Aires. Nevertheless this branch is one of the finest and largest bank edifices in the entire republic. It is on the Calle San Geronimo and faces the Plaza San Martin diagonally across from the cathedral. Its manager is Don Nicolas J. Oderigo. SPANISH BANK OF THE RIVER PLATE. 506 507 BANK OF LONDON AND RIVER PLATE. 508 509 BANK OF THE PROVINCE OF CORDOBA. IT is situated on San Geronimo Street, behind the Hotel San Martin. 510 CAPITOL. THIS massive old structure of Moorish style of architecture faces the Plaza San Martin and occupies a whole city block. It will presently be demolished, as a new capitol will be built, the old one having been found too small and inadequate for the increasing business. 512 513 NEW CAPITOL. HIS is a photograph of the drawing that was accepted in a contest for the new capitol building which is at the present time being built. It will be gnificent building. NEW COURTHOUSE. ^HIS is a likeness of the drawing of the new courthouse, about to be erected in Cordoba. P R D y E C T O 517 NEW CITY HALL. THIS photograph is also from a drawing. Not only will Cordoba have a new Capitol, and a new courthouse, but it will have a new city hall of which this photograph will be a likeness. The erection of these new buildings will tend to relieve the city of its antiquated appearance, Cordoba also needs a new post-office badly. 518 519 RIVERA INDARTE THEATER. HIS Grecian edifice is on the north side of the Avenida General Paz, In color it is yellowish brown. 520 521 OLMOS SCHOOL. T is named after a member of the Olmos family, one of the most influential and power- ful families of the Province of Cordoba. 522 PENITENTIARY. THIS frowning abode for criminals is in a suburb of Cordoba, the village of San Martin. 524 CORDOBA BREWERY. THE Cordoba Brewery owned by Pollak and Brueck is a small affair, yet it has proved to be a very lucrative invest- ment. This photograph shows only one of the buildings. Like in the Rio Segundo Brewery, the water used here in the manufacture of beer is from a deep artesian well. 526 527 MINETTI BROTHERS' FLOUR MILL. THIS is the largest of the Cordobese flour mills. It has also been a very lucrative investment for its owners. 528 529 CATHEDRAL. HIS is a grand old building, very elaborate and costly as to interior decorations. It is the most famous church in Argentina. 530 531 CHURCH OF SAN ROQUE. 532 CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO. 534 535 CLOISTER OF SANTO DOMINGO. HE convent of Santo Domingo adjoins church of the same name. 536 537 CHURCH OF LA MERCEDES. ITS dome and the cupolas on the towers are different shades of glazed blue tile. 538 539 CHURCH OF THE COMPANIA. CoMPANiA means "Holy Company." 540 541 CHURCH OF SANTA TERESA. 542 543 CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO. "^HIS religious edifice has also a cloister connection with it. 544 INTERIOR OF CHURCH OF SAN FRANCISCO. 546 AVENIDA GENERAL PAZ. HIS is the lower end and poorer part of this thoroughfare. Its upper end is hned by many fine buildings and a few handsome residences. 548 1 FALL OF BRIDGE IN SARMIENTO PARK. THIS remarkable photograph shows the remains of a bridge over an artificial lake in Sarmiento Park which collapsed under the strain of the weight of many people. The writer was on the bridge at the time it fell; the water in its deepest place did not exceed three feet, but many persons underwent a ducking. 550 ZObLOGICAL GARDEN. THIS zoological garden is original. It is built in the bottom of a natural ravine, and in artificial caverns in the sides of the rock cages have been made for wild beasts. The cage at the top of the steps to the left is that of the lions. 552 553 STATUE TO VELEZ SARSFIELD. 554 SOBREMONTE HOUSE. THIS is one of the oldest houses in Cordoba. Its likeness is here reproduced to give the observer an idea of how the houses of the colonial period appeared. There are not many of these left standing in Argentina, although Chile has them galore. 556 557 GARZON RESIDENCE. THIS handsome brick residence is the property of the Governor of the Pro- vince of Cordoba, Dr. Felix C. Gar- zon. It is on the Avenida General Paz, not far from the heart of the city. 558 CHALET OF SENOR MINETTI. THIS chalet is in Villa Agents, a suburb of Cordoba. It belongs to Senor Minetti, one of the firm of Minetti Brothers, flour-mill proprietors. 560 56i STREET SCENE, BIALET MASSET. VILLA Bialet Masset is a small village of one long straggling street in the province of Cordoba, about twenty -five miles northwest of the city of Cordoba. It Hes in a mountainous region and is not far from Cosquin. STREET SCENE, CORDOBA. 562 FILTERS ON THE RIO PRIMERO. THE Rio Primero furnishes the potable water for the city of Cordoba. These filters are several miles distant from the city. 564 565 RIO PRIMERO. THIS is a typical scene on this turbulent stream which rises in the Sierra de Cordoba. It is not unlike the streams in the Western States of the United States, and the country through which it flows is also similar to that of the Western States. 566 PUENTE DEL SALTO. HIS is a bridge over the Rio Primero. Salto means a ''waterfall/' There are no waterfalls on the Rio Primero, cascades rather. 568 569 DIQUE MALET. N English this means Malet Dam. It is one of the systems of dams on the Rio Primero to hold back the water in a reser- voir for Cordoba's water supply. 570 571 DIQUE SAN ROQUE. THE San Roque Dam is on the Argentine Northern Railroad, 28 miles northwest of Cordoba. It is the largest dam in the province and holds in check the San Roque Lake, which empties into the Rio Primero, forming a huge reservoir. It is one of the sights of the province. 572 573 SAN ROQUE LAKE. THIS photograph was taken by the writer from the footpath that crosses the top of the masonry of the dam of the same name. It is a large reservoir of green- ish water filHng the canyon bottom. The real part of the lake lies in the far distance and can be seen through the narrows. TYPICAL ESTANCIA, PROVINCE OF CORDOBA. THIS estancia is near the hamlet of San Roque, about five miles from San Roque Lake. 574 575 s CHURCH AT SAN ROQUE. AN ROQUE nestles in the midst of the lonesome Sierra de Cordoba. It is an old hamlet of very few houses. 576 CORDOBESE LANDSCAPE IN THE SIERRA. 578 COSQUIN. COSQUIN is a village on the Argentine Northern Railroad, 36 miles northwest of Cordoba. It has a population of about 2000 inhabitants, and is the most important town in the Sierras. Its climate is dry and salubrious, and it is resorted to by consumptives and by those afflicted with lung troubles. Half- way between Cosquin and the neighboring village of Villa Bialet Masset, there is a large sanatorium for patients suffering from tuberculosis. It is a dull, sleepy place, and unattractive. The trip thither from Cordoba by automobile is recom- mended, not so much on account of picturesque- ness, but because it gives the tourist an idea of what the mountainous part of Cordoba is really like, it being so different from the other mountainous parts of the republic. 580 58i THE HUB OF ACTIVITY OF COSQUIN. IN this dull sleepy town, the shadeless plaza in front of the church is where people congregate. The building to the right is the post-office. STREET IN COSQUIN. THE building at the left is the Hotel Mun- dial, the best in the village. The man in the photograph is the headwaiter. His name is Garcia. It was his v/ish to pose for this snap-shot. 582 FRUIT AND CAKE VENDORS, PROVINCE OF CORDOBA. NOTE the careworn appearance of their swarthy countenances. 584 PROVINCE OF TUCUMAN. jUCUMAN, the smallest of all the Argen- the most fertile province of the republic, its southern and eastern area being given up nearly entirely to the cultivation of sugar cane. The northern and western portions are mountainous and are covered by a fine forest of semi-tropical trees. The only river of importance is the Sali, which takes its source from numerous streams rising in the mountains of the Aconquija Range and flows in a southeasterly direction into the Province of Santiago del Estero. The Sail is sometimes spoken of as the Rio Dulce. The snow-capped peak of Aconquija, 8612 feet high, can be seen rising above the other mountains in solitary grandeur from nearly every point in the eastern or flat part of the province. The Province of Tucuman is styled, and not without reason, ''the Europe of Argentina," on account of its numerous villages and settlements, and from the chimneys of the mills which bristle tine provinces, has an area of but 8926 square miles, not being much larger than the State of Massachusetts. It is 586 everywhere on the landscape. UnHke other pro- vinces of Argentina in which civilization and settle- ment came after the railroads, in Tucuman it preceded them. It is to-day the most industrial part of Argentina. Its population is 373,073, about 100,000 of which live in the capital, the city of Tucuman. The soil is extremely fertile ; the rainfall abun- dant ; crops thrive well. Seen from the mountains to the west of the flat plain, the country appears to be a vast green checkerboard. The mountain valleys are veritable Gardens of Eden. The climate is hot, although in winter in the uplands there is an occasional frost. While the writer so- journed in Tucuman, the thermometer one day registered 108° Fahrenheit in the shade. At a town named Tafi Viejo, 11 miles north of the capital, the Central Northern Railroad (Gov- ernment owned) has the largest railway repair shops in South America. Cheeses from Tafi, a village in the mountains about 60 miles west of the capital, are renowned locally. The mineral springs of Ghino produce a water that has a wide sale. Next to sugar, the chief exports are rum, timber, and fruit. Besides the capital, the princi- pal towns are Concepcion, Bella Vista, Graneros, Monteros, Lules, Chicligasta, and Famailla. The railroads are the Central of Cordoba, the Argen- tine Central, Northern. All have many branches in the province as outlets to the large sugar factories. 587 TUCUMAN. TUCUMAN, with 100,000 inhabitants, is the fifth city of Argentina, being sur- passed in population only by Buenos Aires, Rosario, Cordoba, and La Plata. It is commercially the third city of the republic, and is the great industrial city of the country. Tucuman is a sort of hub, for it is the center of the great sugar-cane district from which all roads lead to it. It has within a radius of twenty miles a quantity of small towns, to which it is connected by rail with frequent service. The situation of the city is fine. It is built near the River Sail, on a flat, fertile, and ultra productive plain, where the temperature is nearly always what can be styled hot. Several miles to the west rise wooded mountains abounding in beautiful scenery. At the top of one of these is a village named Villa Nougues, at an altitude of 3000 feet above the valley, where it is always cool and is a favorite resort for those wishing to escape the discomforts of the city. Though Tucuman is not what one would call a beautiful city (industrial cities rarely are), it has some very laudable buildings, chief among which is 588 the capitol, and some fine avenues have recently been laid out. It has a good electric car service, and an excellent hotel, the Savoy, which is one of the finest in all Argentina. It, with its neighboring gambling casino (which has a concession from the municipality), were erected in 19 14 at a cost of $1,500,000. The city bustles with life, not only in its center but also in the neighbor- hood of the railroad stations, which is the quarter where the greater proportion of the working men live. Tucuman has the youngest university in Argentina, it being founded in 191 5. It has also an agricultural experimental station, equipped with an excellent bacteriological laboratory. The Cerveceria del Norte, next to that of Quilmes, is the largest brewery in the republic. It is said that if all the other breweries in the republic should close, the capacity of the one in Tucuman is ample to supply all Argentina. Tucuman w^as founded by Diego de Villaroel, September 29, 1565, several miles south of where the present city now stands. In 1585 it was re- moved to its present site which is 1453 feet above sea level. The city is dear to all Argentine patri- ots, for here on July 9, 181 6, the delegates from the River Plate provinces met and drew up a declara- tion freeing them from all ties with Spain. The house in which this declaration of independence was drawn up has been preserved by having a building of ferro-concrete built around it, and is to-day the show place of the city. 589 CENTRAL OF ARGENTINA RAILROAD STATION. "DELIGHTED." A PHOTOGRAPH of Mr. Theodore Roose- velt as he passed through the streets of Tucuman from the railroad station, en route to his hotel, spring of 191 3. This was taken by Mr. A. A. Kirwin of Tucuman. 590 NORTH SIDE OF THE PLAZA. THE building in the distance to the left of the center is the capitol. STREET SCENE. THE building with the twin towers is the cathedral. 592 593 SIDE STREET. ONE OF THE MAIN STREETS. 594 595 SOUTH SIDE OF THE PLAZA. SCHOOL BUILT AND MAINTAINED BY THE PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT 596 THE CAPITOL, TUCUMAN. THIS is one of the finest provincial capitol buildings in Argentina. It was finished in 1 9 14, and covers an entire block. On the second story of the corner fac- ing us, is the private office of the Governor, Dr. Ernesto Padilla, a friend of the writer. Adjoining his office he has a room devoted to a collection of Indian antiquities of Tucuman Province. The interior of this building is elaborately rich and luxurious. 598 599 STREET SCENE. THIS is the 9th of July Street looking from the corner of 24th of September Street. 600 MUNICIPAL PAWNSHOP. 602 6o3 A HOLIDAY IN TUCUMAN. THIS photograph was taken from the roof of the capitol. 604 GENERAL O'DONNELL'S ESCORT OF LANCERS. GENERAL O'DONNELL, a native Argentine, is in command of the part of the Argentine army stationed at Tucuman. He is an acquaintance of the writer. 606 6o7 UNIVERSITY OF TUCUMAN. IT is the youngest of the Argentine univer- sities, having been founded in 191 5. Its departments are yet incomplete. The other universities in Argentina are four, and are located at Cordoba, Buenos Aires, La Plata, and Santa Fe. 608 PATIO OF THE UNIVERSITY. 6io EXAMINERS' BOARD, UNIVERSITY OF TUCUMAN. THE gentleman in the center with the straw hat on his knee is Dr. Juan B. Teran, president of the university and a friend of the writer. The two gentlemen at his right are Americans, connected with the Experimental Station of Agriculture at Tucuman. 6i3 BACTERIOLOGICAL LABORATORY, EX- PERIMENTAL STATION OF AGRICUL- TURE. THE Experimental Station of Agriculture is situated a couple of miles north . of the city, and is in charge of some professors from the United States. 614 6i5 INTERIOR OF THE ALBERDI THEATRE. 6i6 6i7 CIGAR FACTORY. HIS also is one of the leading industries of Tucuman. Most of the labor is done by girls and women. 6i8 6i9 FIRE ENGINE, TUCUMAN. THIS is the best and most complete fire engine in South America. It is the property of the Tucuman Fire Department. It is a Merryweather (London) 6o-Horse Power. 620 621 THE FIREMEN'S BALL. THIS is an annual event eagerly looked forward to by the firemen and their friends. It is held every New Year's night and commemorates the founding of the corps which at present (191 7) has nineteen years of existence. 622 623 MAUSOLEUM OF THE CLERGYMEN.^S SOCIETY. THIS monument is in the West Cemetery. The man at its base is its architect and sculptor. So that his name won't pass into oblivion, note the large tablet on the right-hand side of its face which has dis- figured it by its gross braggadocio. 624 MOUNTED POLICEMAN, TUCUMAN. 626 A FORTUNATE GENTLEMAN. THE smooth-shaven man in this photo- graph several years ago sold lottery tickets on a small scale. At Xmas, 1908, he could not sell all he had, and was left with several. Once the extraction was published, he found that one of his left-over tickets had won for him a million pesos ($460,000). He still has a sale of lottery tickets, which today is the largest in Tucuman. 628 629 TYPICAL GROCERY STORE, SUBURBS OF TUCUMAN. IN this place you can have a drink, while you make your purchases of flour, sugar, etc. 630 631 A COUNTRY COTTAGE. EVERYONE is waiting for the bird to appear, the donkey also. 632 CURIOUS STONE, PROVINCE OF TUCU- MAN. THIS solitary stone was found to be covered with Indian drawings and hieroglyphics. 634 635 A NEAR VIEW OF THE SAME STONE. THIS shows plainly the interesting carvings done by the Indians. When discov- ered, this stone was covered with moss. When Mr. A. A. Kirwin, the author of this photograph, heard of this find, he went to see it. He had it scraped and washed; then when it was dry, he passed a piece of chalk over each line of every figure. This accounts for the ease by which you can distinguish the work. 636 PROVINCE OP SALTA. THIS second largest province of Argentina is a country itself, no South American republic having a more varied topo- graphy, greater differences of climate, soil, or rainfall. Part of it lies in the tropics, and part in the temperate zone. Its area is 62,184 square miles, exceeding the Province of Cordoba by twenty-four square miles only. It is some- what smaller than Missouri, or Washington, and is a trifle larger than either Georgia, Florida, or Michigan. Its population is 142,068 inhabitants, having had but a small increase in recent years. The census of 1869 gave it 88,933 inhabitants. The western and northwestern parts of the province are traversed by the eastern chain of the Andes, a cold, windy, bleak, forlorn desert and conglomeration of rocky mountain peaks where it seldom rains. The culminating point is the peak of Cachi, covered with perpetual snow. The eastern half is a great tropical forest, well watered and low lying and in which rise rivers such as the Bermejo, the Teuco and others that flow southeasterly into the Paraguay forming 638 part of the great River Plate system. This country has an excess of rainfall, and here are located some large sugar mills. Rice could be grown profitably. The part where the majority of the inhabitants live is in the valleys in the center, especially that of the Lerma. Here the tree-covered mountains open up into wide and spacious valleys, very fertile, and which are well cultivated. That of Cafayate produces excellent wine, which unfortunately is not frequently exported from the province. Stock- raising is a leading industry. The cattle are driven across the high and barren Andes and are sold at a great gain at Antofagasta and other nitrate ports of Northern Chile. There is but one railroad in the province, Central Northern, which has several branches. It is now continuing its antennae by two parallel lines to the Paraguay River across the Argentine Chaco. What Salt a needs more than anything, according to the conversation of the inhabitants with the writer, is a transandean line to connect with Antofagasta, Chile, for it would be the natural outlet for the sale of their stock on account of the high prices paid for cattle in Northern Chile. Freight makes the exportation of stock to the Argentine seaboard prohibitive. Salta contains, with the exception of the capital, very few places of any importance. Oran is a small place kept up by the sugar industry. Giie- mes is a railroad center. Rosario de la Frontera is 639 renowned for its mineral springs, which He four miles east of the town of the same name. There are six springs, all different, and it is said that at no other place in the world is there such a marked contrast in the composition of the mineral waters than is found there. One spring is siliceous; one is ferruginous; one is alkaline, like Vichy; one is saline ; one is sulphurous ; the last has purgative qualities. As in Tucuman, here in Salta civilization pre- ceded the railroad. In olden days it took three months for a journey to Buenos Aires. For this reason, its towns have a colonial appearance of ancient style of architecture. There lies in the midst of the forest about six hours from the rail- road station of Metan, an old city named Santi- ago del Esteca, practically forgotten, but possessing the solid buildings of two centuries ago. 640 CITY OF SALTA. SALTA is the capital of the province of the same name. It has a population of about 28,000 inhabitants; that of the commune IS 33,899. The original city was founded in 1582 in the Valley of Siancas by Abreu, and was given the name of San Clemente de Nueva Sevilla. Two years later the site was transferred to where the city now stands and was called San Felipe de Lerma, in honor of the Hernando de Lerma who had the place moved. The name Salta grad- ually came into use and supplanted the original appellation. It is a compact, well-built city of ancient houses, many of them having extremely thick walls. Like all houses of Spanish colonial architecture these buildings are low, and surround large patios. In the last few years, however, some fine buildings have been erected in the vicinity of the Plaza 9th of July, which add greatly to the appearance of the business section of the city. Salta possesses some superb churches, with cupolas and steeples, ornamented with porcelain tiles. It is the seat of a bishopric, and has a 642 famous monastery, that of San Francisco, nearly three hundred years old. Seen from the plains north of the city, its spires and towers give it a mediaeval Teutonic appearance. This aspect is augmented by the vision of the twin spires of the German Lutheran church. There is a good hotel, the Plaza. The park of San Martin at the eastern end of the city is an attractive place to spend the afternoon. There is a good electric tram system and the streets are well paved with cobblestones, and creosote blocks. The climate is said to be unhealthy, a fever named chucho, a form of ague, being prevalent, but the writer thinks that the prevalence of chucho is exaggerated, this thought being borne out by the reports of the Board of Sanitation of the province. 643 RAILROAD STATION, SALTA. THIS is the station of the Central North- ern Railroad. It is situated on the northern outskirts of the city, about a mile from the center of the busi- district. 644 A PARADE IN SALTA. THE view here given is that of the north side of the principal plaza, that of the 9th of July. The view is looking east. The building with the Corinthian pillars in the near left foreground is the cathedral. Its bishop is Jose Gregorio Romero. The two-story building on the same side of the street and in the left background is the Plaza Hotel. The three-story building facing us is used upstairs for residential purposes. Downstairs it contains the beer hall "Al Mejor Chopp/' 646 SALTA SOCIAL CLUB. THE three-story building in the left fore- ground is the Salta Social. Club, now finished. It is one of the most modern buildings in the city. It is luxuriously furnished, and would put to shame many of the so-called select clubs of our North American cities. The interior finishing was done by native woodcarvers, of woods indigenous to the Salta forests. The heavy candelabra of Venetian glass and the gilded Louis XVI. furniture of the ball- room were imported from France at great expense. The building on its right facing us is also of modern construction, but the low^ building in the right background is ancient. These edifices are on the west side of the Plaza 9th of July. 648 BUILDING OF THE COLONIAL TYPE. THIS long, and low, but artistic edifice is one of the class that is slowly but surely disappearing in Salta. It is of the Spanish colonial type of architec- ture and is over one hundred years old. Notice the Gothic arches on the ground floor, and the Moorish ornamentation of the second story. The walls are very thick ; they have the same thickness as the piers between the ground-floor arches. This building is on the west side of the Plaza 9th of July, and on its ground floor has barber shops, cigar stores, and bootblack stands. 650 OLD CABILDO, SALTA. THIS is the old city hall, called cabildo. Here also were located the offices of the provincial government. It is a landmark of the city, and should be preserved. It is no longer used for public usages. The right half of it is rented by a German who has a restaurant and beer saloon on the ground floor named ''Al Buen Chopp," while he lives above it and rents the other rooms to transient guests. Notice the eaves above the second story projecting across the sidewalk. During a rain the pedestrian is apt to get a douche from them. This is one of the best preserved ancient buildings in Argentina. 652 PLAZA HOTEL. THOUGH not in a class with its namesake in Buenos Aires, nor as good as the Plaza Hotel of Cordoba, this Plaza Hotel of Salta is a very laudable affair. It is by far the best hotel in Salta, is clean, with good dining-room service. Many larger cities in the United States have far worse hotels than this. Most of the rooms open onto a patio, from which ascend two staircases to the second floor. 654 655 MITRE STREET. THIS is the main street of Salta, although this photograph was taken of a part of it, two blocks north of where the real retail section begins. Mitre Street begins at the railroad station and, passing the new capitol, runs to the Plaza 9th of July. It then continues southward to the end of the city past the church of the Candelaria, with separate campanile. 656 BANK OF THE ARGENTINE NATION. THIS branch of the great Buenos Aires Bank is the largest in the Province of Salta. It is situated about half a block west of the Plaza 9th of July. The manager is Don Francisco Pereyra, whose guest Dr. Stephens was during his sojourn in Salta. The upstairs is used for the living apartments of the Pereyra family. 658 PROVINCIAL BANK, SALTA. NEARLY every provincial capital has a bank named Provincial Bank, or Bank of the Province of — . Salta is no exception to this. These build- ings give an idea of the type of modern construction which is replacing the ancient in this northern city of Argentina. ANCIENT CHURCH OF LA MERCED. NEARLY all of the Salta churches are old- timers. Observe this antique remnant of Spanish times. 662 SAN MARTIN PARK. THIS recreation ground and favorite pro- menade is on the eastern limits of the city. It contains several artificial lakes ; it also has a casino where the thirsty visitor on a hot summer's day may partake of a cool, refreshing drink. 664 PENITENTIARY. 666 667 MODERN RESIDENCE, SALTA. 668 2oTH OF FEBRUARY MONUMENT. THIS monument commemorates the vic- tory of General Belgrano over the Spaniards, February 20, 1812. This monument stands on the plain where the battle took place, about a mile and a half northwest of Salta. 670 CEMETERY SCENE, SALTA. HE monument in the foreground is that of a private family. These monuments are made of brick and plastered over. 672 6-3 VIEW ACROSS THE ROOFS OF SALTA FROM MONASTERY OF SAN FRANCISCO. THE monastery of San Francisco is three hun- dred years old. STREET SCENE IN GUEMES. THIS is the main street of the village of General Giiemes, or Gtiemes as it is more often called. The town is named after a member of the wealthy and re- nowned Gtiemes family of Salta. It is a railroad center, and at best is a miserable looking place. This is a good example of a small town of North- ern Argentina. Arches, piers, and pillars (observe building in center of this photograph) play a more important part in architecture than in Southern Ar2:entina. 674 n I "1 I I STEERS ON A SALTA FARM. 677 PROVINCE OF SAN LUIS. THE area of this province is 28,535 square miles, somewhat smaller than the state of South Carolina. Its popu- lation in 1 91 5 was 122,720 inhabitants. In agriculture San Luis is one of the poorest prov- inces in all Argentina, and it is to be wondered at that it has the population that it has. The northern part is mountainous, a continuation of the Sierra de Cordoba, covered with sagebrush, chaparral, and mesquite. Here rise a few rivers that flow in- to the Province of Cordoba, the most important of these being the Rio Quinto. These rivers have more water nearer their sources than farther down- stream, for, in the last-mentioned places, much water has become absorbed by the sand or has become saline on account of the surface salt in the soil. The southern part of the province is sterile ; it is an arid desert where few people live. San Luis suffers from droughts, sometimes a year elapsing between rains; the part of the country which is under cultivation is brought into its present state by means of irrigation, the water supply being furnished by the dams of Potrero de los Funes, and of Chorillos. 678 Although San Luis is deficient in water, and therefore poor in agriculture, it is rich in mineral resources, which since Spanish rule have been neglected. The Spaniards exploited the country merely for the minerals, and at Carolina they had valuable gold mines. Wolfram and manganese are today mined at Quines. There exist in the province deposits of copper, silver, vanadium, manganese, gold, and mica, besides quarries of marble and onyx. Two railroads traverse San Luis, the Western, and the Buenos Aires Pacific. The latter has many branches. The capital is the city of San Luis. It is on the Buenos Aires Pacific Railroad, in the north- ern part of the province. The only other town worthy of mention is Villa Mercedes, an important railroad center in the eastern part of the pro- vince, near the boundary line with the Province of Cordoba. It has a population of about 9000 inhabitants. The inhabitants are noted for their fine appear- ance and for their strength. Many are the de- scendants of the mestizos (mixed Spanish and Indian blood) from the colonial times. 679 CITY OF SAN LUIS. THE city of San Luis, capital of the pro- vince of the same name, is a dull, sleepy, quiet place of about 12,000 inhabitants, and is not growing. It is built in an oasis, formed by irrigation, and in climate is dry and healthy. The city was founded in 1597, by Martin Onez de Loyola, on a high plateau at the southwestern extremity of a range of mountains named the Punta de los Venados. Its inhabitants are nicknamed Puntanos, a deriva- tion from those words. The town is not worthy of a visit unless the stranger is called there on business. The only two buildings that amount to anything are the depot and the capitol. The Plaza Pringles is a fine, shady park, but poorly kept up. The hotels are lacking in comfort and modernity. 680 RAILROAD STATION. THIS is the station of the Buenos Aires Pacific Railroad. It stands about a mile northwest of the city, and with the exception of the capitol is the most imposing edifice of the place. STREET SCENE. 682 THE CAPITOL, SAN LUIS. THIS is the largest and best building in the city of San Luis. Electric wires have been stretched all over its fagade to which are attached countless bulbs, as shown in this photograph. On holidays it is illuminated, but so weak is the electric light plant of the city, that when all the bulbs on the capitol are lighted, the rest of the city is in semi-darkness. The Governor of the province is Juan Daract. 684 POST-OFFICE, SAN LUIS. 686 CLUB AND MUNICIPAL THEATRE. 688 COURT HOUSE, SAN LUIS. 690 691 MARKET, SAN LUIS. 692 693 LAFINUR SCHOOL. This is for boys only. 694 CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO. 696 PRINGLES MONUMENT. UNDER this pinnacle of brick and plaster repose the mortal remains of Juan Pascual Pringles, one of the heroes of Argentina's War of Independence. He was a native son of desolate San Luis. 699 BANK OF THE ARGENTINE NATION. ALFALFA FIELD, ENVIRONS OF SAN LUIS. 700 70I ONE OF THE MAIN STREETS. HACIENDA ABOUT THREE MILES EAST OF CITY OF SAN LUIS. THE mountains are the Punta de los Venados, rich in minerals and in mountain lions. TYPICAL COUNTRY SCENE, PROVINCE OF SAN LUIS. THIS is a view of the landscape of San Luis Province where the wagon road to the east crosses the Chorillo Creek at a point named Puente Blanco (White Bridge) . The Punta de los Venados is seen in the background. 704 705 PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THE Province of Mendoza has an area of 56,502 square miles (a trifle less than Michigan) and had a population in 191 5 of 283,640 inhabitants. It is the most important province of Western Argen- tina, and under the viceregency it, together with what are now the provinces of San Luis and San Juan, formed the Province of Cuyo, and was administered from Santiago, Chile. The eastern part of the province is something similar to San Luis, dry and arid, and covered with scrub and mimosa bushes. The western part is extremely fertile, caused by water being conducted to it from the Andean streams, the chief ones of which are the Tunuyan, the Mendoza, and the Diamante. It is in this region at the foot of the Andes that is located the greatest wine producing country in South America. For miles and miles are vineyards, and the landscape is dotted with wineries, some of which are enormous, that of Tomba at Godoy Cruz being one of the largest in the world. The wine industry has of late years been somewhat overdone, as none is 706 exported to Europe in large quantities, owing to local competition. Therefore the growing of fruits for table usages and for canning now is one of the leading industries. Stock-raising is another. Not many cereals are grown, as it is too expensive to grow them by irrigation. The climate presents the extremes, the summers being hot and the winters cold. In the neighbor- hood of the Andes it rains frequently, the fre- quency and precipitation diminishing considerably as the pampa is approached going eastward. The highest mountains in South America are in the Province of Mendoza, the culminating point being Aconcagua, whose height is estimated at 24,000 feet. It is a volcano. At a pass in these moun- tains, that of Uspallata, San Martin crossed into Chile where he defeated the Spaniards, breaking the Spanish rule in the southern part of South America. There are many mineral springs in the province owing their origin to the volcanic condi- tions there existing. The waters from Villavi- cencio are widely drunk ; those of Cacheuta and of Puente del Inca are for thermal purposes. In the province there is a large Italian element, who have been attracted here to pursue the same walks in life that they have accustomed them- selves to in the old country. It was they who brought in the Lombardy poplars, trees that grace every Mendoza landscape. There are three railroads in the province; the Buenos Aires Pacific, with the city of Men- 707 doza as its terminus, has a network of lines in the neighborhood of the capital. The Western Rail- road enters the southern part of the province and has its terminal at General Alvear. The Trans- andine Railroad begins at Mendoza and by a nar- row gauge track crosses the Andes into Chile. The capital of the province is the city of Men- doza, a fine city of 65,000 inhabitants. The only other places of importance are Godoy Cruz, a suburb of Mendoza; San Rafael in the southern part of the province and the heart of the Dia- mante Valley wine country; General Alvear, farther south, and La Paz, a railroad junction with car shops. 708 CITY OF MENDOZA. THIS is a fine, old-fashioned town with broad, shady streets, low but massive buildings, beautiful parks, and ani- mated business streets. Its population is about 65,000, exclusive of its suburb Godoy Cruz which has 10,000 more. It is an opulent city, the home of the rich wine manufacturers and merchants, who prefer to live on their estates than to move to Buenos Aires after having made their fortune. People compare Mendoza with Guate- mala City, because between the sidewalks and the road run streams of fresh water, spanned by cement and stone foot-bridges a yard long. Al- though it gets very hot in the summer, one can always keep cool by seeking the shade of the sycamore trees that line the sidewalks. The Plaza San Martin is one of the finest in Argentina and is well kept up. Its trees have not had the chance to afford shade, as they are still young. It contains an equestrian statue of the patriot looking towards the Andes, for here the Guerrero had his winter headquarters before crossing into Chile. On an eminence a few miles 709 west of the city stands a colossal monument in honor of the liberating arm}^ The West Park is criterion for all others in provincial Argentina. The wineries of Domingo Tomba and of the Benegas Brothers are the best known in South America. Outside of the products of the vintage, there is but little manufacturing in Mendoza, although there are several small potteries and some fruit-canning establishments. The stranger to Mendoza is astounded at seeing the great num- ber of adobe buildings, which form the majority. The old town which was visited by an earthquake and practically devastated in l86i, over 10,000 persons being killed, was practically entirely built of adobe, and the buildings that are not built of that material have been erected since then. The growth of Mendoza has not been rapid. This was due to its inaccessibility. It is 655 miles west of Buenos Aires, and but 242 from Santiago, Chile, which city had always been its trade outlet until the railroad was built connecting it with Buenos Aires and Rosario, which gave it access to the River Plate over a seemingly level stretch of territory. Mendoza carries on a brisk trade with Chile. It possesses a fair hotel named the Grand, owned by an Alsatian Jew named Levi, and a less pre- tentious German one named the Bauer. 710 BUENOS AIRES PACIFIC RAILROAD STATION. NECOCHEA STREET. 712 713 MUNICIPAL THEATRE. BANK OF THE PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THIS bank as well as one in the city of San Juan, issues its own paper money, which is acceptable every- where in the province excepting in the government offices. 714 PLAZA SAN MARTIN. THIS photograph is facing the west. Note the equestrian statue of San Martin facing the same direction. This is be- cause it was in the west, in Chile, that he defeated the Spaniards under Osorio, and it was to the west over the Andes that he led his troops. The building on the extreme left is a club; that in the center is the Spanish Bank of the River Plate ; the one on the right is not a synagogue as one might suppose from its Hebraic architecture, but is the leading Roman Catholic church of Men- doza. 716 SPANISH BANK OF THE RIVER PLATE. 718 719 BANK OF THE ARGENTINE NATION. THIS branch of the Buenos Aires bank of the same name has its building at the northeast corner of the Plaza San Martin. 720 THE ALAMEDA. SO is called the prolongation of San Martin Street. It divides the original city ''Old'' Mendoza from the modern one. This view is taken looking north. The buildings to the right belong in ''Old'' Mendoza, while those to the left appertain to the modern town. 722 723 RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO. THIS edifice was built of adobe and was situated in the center of ''Old" Men- doza. All the buildings in the old city were built of this material. On March 20, 1861, there was a terrible earthquake. The roofs fell outward, killing the people who were walking on the sidewalk, and the roofs collapsed killing those who remained indoors. Over 10,000 people alone lost their lives in Mendoza. It was a Sunday night and church services were being held. Of the several hundred people in the church of Santo Domingo at the time of the catastrophe, only one escaped unhurt. This was a drunken man who had lain down beneath an arch (the center one in this photograph) . This arch did not collapse. Notice the caladiums or ''elephant's ears'' planted around the artificial lake. Few South American parks or gardens are lacking in these plants. 724 725 SARMIENTO STREET. THIS is a typical street in the modern part of the city. Notice the gutters, flanked by foot-bridges. These gutters are paved with polished stones and pebbles, and through them flows clear running water, which gives a cooling impression even on the hottest summer days. 726 72/ ROTUNDA IN WEST PARK. WEST PARK (Parque del Oeste) is about a mile and a half west of the main part of Mendoza. It is beauti- fully laid out, and each year that elapses witnesses new improvements in it. The hill in the left background is at present surmounted by a statue in commemoration of the Liberating Army. It is now planted to trees and bushes, which are kept aHve by water which is piped to its summit, and then allowed to run down its sides in ditches. 728 729 WINE INDUSTRY, PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THIS is a photograph of the grape vats in one of the large wineries of the province. 730 WINE INDUSTRY, PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THESE are wine presses in one of Mendoza's large wineries. 732 WINE INDUSTRY, PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THESE are compartments for the fermentation of wine. 734 WINE INDUSTRY, PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. THIS is the shipping -room of the Tra- piche Winery, the property of the Benegas Brothers. Their vineyards are about five miles south of Mendoza. 736 7.37 SCENES, PROVINCE OF MENDOZA. LUJAN DAM, UPPER VIEW. THIS water is used for irrigation purposes. The part of the province which can be supplied with water is named the Zona del Riego. It is here where the wine industry flourishes. LUJAN DAM, LOWER VIEW. 738 739 RIO BLANCO. THIS name means "White River, its color being derived from its sprays and foam as it rushes turbulently down the Andean mountain canyon. It is a typical stream of the Argentine Andes. 740 BATHS OF CACHEUTA. THIS photograph is by Augusto Streich of Mendoza. Cacheuta lies in a defile of the Men- doza River, in the Andes Mountains, twenty-five miles west of the city of Mendoza. It is on the Transandean Railroad. The land- scape is barren and unattractive. The place consists of a large hotel with baths and a gambling establishment. The waters are good for rheu- matism, but are bad for the heart. The majority of people visiting Cacheuta do not come to be cured of any affliction but to play roulette in the casino which is the great attraction. It is fre- quented only by the elite, and every Sunday wit- nesses many visitors from Mendoza who arrive and depart for home the same day. Since this photograph was taken, a large three- story hotel has been built where stood the long, low, straggling building here depicted. 742 743 BATHS OF CACHEUTA. HIS is a grotto adjacent to the baths. The gentleman in the strijoed under- clothing is a former manager of the thermal establishment. 744 745 USPALLATA. THIS is a station on the Transandean Railroad, fifty-eight miles west of Men- doza. The valley of the Mendoza River here opens forming a valley which contains one large ranch, that of Uspallata, planted to alfalfa. It was at this ranch, that San Martin assembled his army for the final stage of his march across the Andes, a march that is unparalleled in history which, in magnitude of undertaking, owing to the obstacles to be met, surpasses Hannibal's crossing of the Alps. 746 747 LAS VACAS. LAS VACAS is on the Transandean Rail- road, 91 miles west of Mendoza and 19 miles east of the last Argentine station. It is 7784 feet above sea level. A snow storm was raging in the mountains to the left when this photograph was taken, hence the hazy view in that direction. 748 749 PUENTE DEL INCA. THE name of this place translated into English means Bridge of the Inca, so called from a natural bridge under which flows a turbulent glacial stream. Although the name Inca appears as an appellation in several instances in this region, a lake in Chile across the Andes not far from here being called the Lago del Inca, it is a historical fact that the Incas never were in this part of the country, nor were they nearer than looo miles north of here. Puente del Inca is 102 miles west of Mendoza and 8 miles east of the international tunnel. Its altitude is 8840 feet above sea level. The place is a fashionable summer resort, the tourists attracted thither by the bracing air, the baths from the hot springs, and mountain climbing. It is the starting- point to ascend Aconcagua, whose height is esti- rnated at 24,000 feet. 750 751 PUENTE DEL INCA. THIS is a photograph of the famous natural bridge of Argentina. It is of calcareous rock and stands 86 feet above the defile of the Mendoza River. It is an arch, its under side being in the form of an ellipse, which measures 156 feet. Its top is 102 feet long, while its thickness averages 28 feet. 752 PUENTE DEL INCA. SKI sport is one of the winter attractions of this balnearial resort. 754 ACONCAGUA. THIS volcano, thought to be extinct, is the highest in South America. It is esti- mated to be 24,000 feet high, but careful calculations show that its height is only 23,080 feet. It has been ascended several times, the first man to do so being E. A. Fitzgerald. Although the mountain is both in Argentina and in Chile, its summit, however, lies within Argentine dominion. 756 MOUTH OF INTERNATIONAL TUNNEL, LAS CUEVAS. LAS CUEVAS is the last Argentine station. Its altitude above sea level is 10,241 feet. Here is the international tunnel which was inaugurated April 5, 1 910. It is 9848 feet long, 5460 feet of which are in Argentine territory, the remaining 4388 feet being Chilean. It passes 2559 feet beneath the Cumbre Pass, over which there is still considerable travel. In winter, when snow blockades in the open prohibit the communication between Argen- tina and Chile by train, many people ride through the tunnel on horseback or else walk through it. The writer has walked through it both ways, and has also crossed the pass of the Cumbre on horse- back. 758 INTERNATIONAL TUNNEL, LAS CUEVAS. THIS view taken a few rods within the mouth of the tunnel is looking out of the Argentine entrance into the Province of Mendoza. 760 761 THE CHRIST OF THE ANDES. THIS is a statue of Christ the Redeemer/' named in Spanish ''Cristo Redentor." There had been a long-standing dispute between Argentina and Chile over the boundary question of these respective countries which was becoming serious. An amicable under- standing was brought about, and this monument was erected as a symbol of Peace. Christ has his right hand outstretched in the act of blessing both nations. This statue is of bronze, is 29 feet high, and is the work of the Argentine sculptor, Mateo Alonso. It was dedicated in March, 1904. In the background, notice an iron tower, painted white. There are several of these, and the lines drawn between them and the Christ define the boundary. When the writer saw the *'Cristo Redentor'' it was in a sorry state. The elements had blown the cross from his hand, and the body was pockmarked with white spots, caused by the bullets the Chilean rotos had fired at it with their revolvers when they recrossed the Andes to their native country, after having worked for the season installing the electri- cal plant at Puente del Inca. Recently, however, this statue has been repaired. 762 i r GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 3 3125 00024 9710