ani shs Moptisaere long: geste heres te! Ld she then I cierto re ahtiat aren tety bey siipeipstitcbocertas glee oye iNpyes! f " ” ; nie ies eee) pve? ts ts tect st res eaitaity 7 a 7 Wap eesti fess? fet Deeetitn niet in Fay ff G3 y a 5 wanueuselttces ge es j re % ee teers eh aw. rian AND GENTLEMEN’S | LETTER wae ‘kc. “Home Boox See ECONOMY. Aune Bowman. COMMON THINGS OF Every-Day LIFE. > Ditto. HISTORY OF FRANCE TO THE PEACE OF PARIS, 1856. 4. Zdwards. RUNDELL’s DoMESTIC COOKERY, Unabridged. Notes ON HEALTH: How to Preserve or Regain it. W.T.Coleman. _ComMom OBJECTS OF THE MICROSCOPE. Rev. F G. Wood. | Onze THOUSAND HINTS FOR THE TABLE, How To MAKE MONEY, freedley. INFANT NURSING. Mrs. Pedley. | PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING, Ditto. | A MANUAL CF WEATHERCASTS AND STORM PROGNOSTICS, THE COMMERCIAL LETTER- WRITER. READY-MADE SPEECHES. VELOCIPEDES: How to Ride Them, CONDUCT OF LIFE. Limerson, INTEREST AND ANNUITIES. THE DINNER QUESTION. Tabitha Tickletooth. THE Book OF PROVERBS. 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Edited by Dr. Nuttall, 288 pp., with Illustrations. taini -BUCKMASTER'S COOKERY: Peo” LECTURES DELIVERED IN THE COOKERY SCHOOL a AT THE INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR 1873 AND 1874; TOGETHER WITH A COLLECTION OF APPROVED RECIPES AND MENUS. ni ‘The number of inhabitants which may be supported in any country, upon its internal produce, depends as much upon the state of the Art of Cookery as upon that of Agriculture. . . . butif Cookery be of so much importance, it certainly deserves to be studied with the greatest care. . . . Cookery and Agriculture are arts of civilized nations ; savages understand neither of them.” —CounT RumrForp. LONDON : GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, THE BROADWAY; LUDGATE ; NEW YORK: 416, BROOME STREET. ‘- AR m | 2 * ~~ ” ee | hve 2 PREFACE. a Wain. much reluctance that I accepted in 1873, the invitation of Her Majesty's Com- missioners of the International Exhibition to deliver a course of lectures on Cookery. One of the exhibits that year was Food, and it was ~ thought this section might be made more in- — structive by lectures. It has tole been known and regretted that the usual course of Female Education does not include any in nstruction in Cookery or other domestic arts ; and to this “omission may be traced much discomfort and. difficulty with servants among the middle classes, and bad health and Ten petal among the poorer working classes. Ladies often think it beneath their dignity to know anything about a kitchen, and yet the health and happiness of every household depend more x oe ; r oe ee aa Preface. at on Cookery than on any other domestic art. Refinement and delicacy of feeling may go, and often do go, with the tenderest of ali duties, in a sick-room; and if ladies can go through the practice of a medical school, why not the work of a kitchen ? eh No lady is the less a lady if she can add to her other accomplishments a knowledge of household management. How many a young woman, well educated (as the phrase goes), has commenced life with the happiest and best of prospects; and after spending the first few months of her married life in all sorts of blun- ders and mistakes and unpleasant differences with her servants, has had to learn, with dear- bought experience and sorrow, those things which ought to-have been learned before under- taking the duties and responsibilities of married life. Much ignorance also exists on the Che- mistry and Physiology of Food. I have referred ot is subject in two of my lectures, because I believe a knowledge of what constitutes a good Food quite as important as properly cooking it. Good cooking is frequently confounded with res * Preface. vil Ver expensive cooking ; but the cheap, simple dinner of a poor family may be made more wholesome and digestible by careful cooking, which is often more a matter of trouble than expense. Every dish, simple as it may be, should be well cooked and served with its own proper flavour and individuality. In the purchase of Food, as of Wine, Dress, Furniture, Carriages, and Jewellery, every person must be the best judge of what he can afford. In reading over a recipe, consider what the materials will cost, and whether the price will accord with: your other arrangements. My idea of a Cookery Book is, that it should teach, as far as a book can teach, the theory and practice of Cookery ; and I begin to see what a field of national usefulness is open for those who have the desire and intelligence to cultivate it. No domestic art requires so much caution, thought, intelligence, judgment, and taste as good cooking. The art must not be judged by those who practise it, but by what it would be under the care of educated women. Perfection is only to be obtained by reflection and prac- tice, and not by the slavish following of recipes. viii Preface. If Cookery were an exact science, then weights, quantities, temperatures, and time could be given; and until the art becomes more depen- dent on careful observation and experiment, much must be left to the judgment of the cook. There has been progress from our fingers to steel forks, and from steel forks to silver forks and spoons ; but there has not been progress in the same degree in our cooking. In some things a retrogression has taken place. Except the set dinner-party, which is often an opportunity for waste and extravagance, there is no such thing as regular, comfortable, inviting meals in the _ houses of themiddle classes. Cookeryis not an art to tempt men to gluttony, it is the art of making every scrap of food yield the greatest amount of pleasure and nourishment of which it is capable; and this, as I have so often repeated, does not Sela so much on what you spend as how you cooks, The dinner of the working man may be, and often is, of odd scraps; but it may be so d s to be tender, savoury, and even turned into delicate morsels. I do not profess impossibilities, but every- : | | Preface. 1X thing used for food should be as good and as perfect as possible after its kind. The bacon dumpling of a labourer should, in its way, be as perfect in its flavour and digestibility as a fricassee of chicken. In cooking the simplest thing, perfection should be the idea, although that perfection may not be possible. I have never insisted on soups and stews as the chief diet of the labouring classes. I have urged their importance as the only easy method for obtaining the full nutritive value of all the materials, because everything in a soup or stew is eaten, and their food-value will depend on the nature of the materials; but whatever their \ value, the stomach must have the benefit. ectures are an abridgment of some of those that were delivered, and I have reluctantly yielded to repeated applications from all parts of the country to publish them. Many things will be found in these lectures which have no direct reference to the subject; but as my lectures were frequently attended by the same persons, I was anxious to avoid repeti- tion, and this often led me to the consideration x Preface. of analogous questions, when the bare explana- tion of recipes and processes would have been tedious and uninteresting. I now submit this work to the public with the hope that it may be found useful in awakening an interest in perfect cooking. I do not lay claim to much originality. Many of the recipes were published by the Committee of the Cookery School; for others I am indebted to the works of Gouffe, to Mrs. Harrison, of the Cookery School, who has revised many of the recipes, and to other persons. I must also ex- press my indebtedness to several papers and periodicals ; and I shall be glad of any addi- tional recipes or corrections, the result of per- sonal practice. St. Joun’s HILL, WANDSWORTH, S.W., Nov. 2, 1874. % CONTENTS. ne LECTURE I. PAGE EARLY ENGLISH FOOD AND COOKING, : . Oat ale | LECTURE II. HOUSES OF THE WORKING CLASSES—KITCHENS—OPEN FIRE GRATES — KITCHENERS—GAS STOVES— KITCHEN UTENSILS—FIRES AND FUEL e . ° e LO LECTURE III. ON STOCK SOUPS AND POT AU FEU ., hie . Geo eu 2O LECTURE IV. MISTRESSES AND SERVANTS . : . ( : aS 5% LECTURE V. . HASHES AND STEWS . . : ‘ : ’ wisi OF LECTURE VI. ON THE FUNCTION OF FOOD—FEEDING CHILDREN— THE LIVING BODY CONSIDERED AS A MACHINE , vai LECTURE VII. AUSTRALIAN MEAT e e ° ° ° ° « » IOI LECTURE VIII. FRYING ° s . s e ° e ° e ° 109 Xi Contents, LECTURE IX. PAGE MELTED BUTTER AND SAUCES 7 js > A < ke 127 LECTURE X. THE EDUCATION OF GIRLS , ‘ ‘ ; 143 LECTURE XI. WHEAT, BREAD, OATS, BARLEY, MACARONI, PEAS, BEANS, AND LENTILS = «6 | 40s ke LECTURE XII. ROASTING, BROILING, BOILING, STEAMING, ‘BAKING, BRAISING e e e e ° ° ° ° ° 201 LECTURE XIII. FOOD—HUNGER AND THIRST , ‘i ‘ 5 Maher te LECTURE XIV. THE COOKERY SCHOOL—FRENCH COOKING—WASTE— CONCLUSION. = « 8); va) ie a BUCKMASTER’S COOKERY. PECUCORE “I. ‘¢ Whether ye eat or drink, do all to the glory of God.” EARLY ENGLISH FOOD AND COOKING. Maw has been described as an animal that makes a fire, but there must be some civilization before he can do so; and to manage it for cooking his food shows great progress in the arts of domestic life. The history of cooking (which I shall not attempt) is the history of our manners and our civilization. The food of monkeys was probably the early food ofman. Fruits, seeds, and roots were ground to pieces by the teeth, so that the saliva could act upon them and prepare them for the stomach where they were raised to the tem- perature necessary for digestion, and afterwards con- - verted into blood to repair the wastes of the body. In imitation of nature man bruised or ground his food between stones called querns ; with a more advanced civilization these stones were moved by natural forces— such as water; and with the paste or dough formed by mixing the meal with water he prepared an unleavened cake, which was baked in live ashes or in an oven, This was probably the earliest kind of cooking. a 2 Buckmaster’s Cookery. The Ancient Britons lived chiefly on coarsely-bruised barley mixed with milk. Sheep were unknown; meat was not much used, and was generally eaten raw. Hares, geese, and fowls were prohibited as food by the Druids. At this early period of our history there was nothing which deserved the name of cooking. With the occupation of the Romans, houses, baths, roads, bridges, and temples were constructed, and for three centuries Britain was the centre of Roman civili- zation and luxury, which, however, left no permanent influence on the domestic life of the country they occu- pied. A Roman banquet was a marvel of gastronomic genius. Lampreys fattened o human flesh, a pig half boiled and half roasted, stuffed with small birds, and so skilfully managed that it was impossible to detect the line which separated the parts, peacocks’ brains simmered in wine, nightingales’ tongues, snail broth, and parrots with onion sauce, were favourite dishes. *¢ Old Lucullus, they say, Forty cooks had each day, And Vitellius’s meals cost a million,” Cooking in its purest and best sense is not a device to make men eat more than is good for them. ‘This is the abuse of an art which has its origin in the necessi- ties of man. In his lowest civilized condition he must either cook his food or perish; his wants stimu- late his faculties—he must do something to live, and it is this constant conflict with adverse circumstances that develops his intellect and gives him a power over nature. He soon learns that cooking makes his food more palatable and more digestible. Pp Early Enghsh Food and Cooking. 3 With the mission of S. Augustine a great change took place. The art of Agriculture, the earliest of civilized arts, was cultivated with attention. Wheat, barley, and rye were sown in the spring. Ploughs, harrows, rakes, sickles, and flails for thrashing soon were invented, and continued in use till within the last half century with little change or improvement. -The chief meat of the Anglo-Saxon was pork, and the swineherd was a necessary servant in every home- stead. In autumn he used to drive the pigs into the woods and forests (which were very large and numerous) to fatten on roots, sweet chestnuts, beech- nuts, and acorns. Fish, fowls, venison, cabbages, eggs, and salted porpoises were also eaten. The cooking of the Anglo-Saxon was an improvement on that of the Ancient Briton ; he had also a greater variety of food ; and boiling and making broth or soups was a popular kind of cooking, although baking and roasting were sometimes practised. The chief cooking utensil was an earthenware pot or pipkin which would stand the fire, and into this pot were put herbs and such vegetables as they could obtain, with bones and pieces of meat; these were simmered over the ashes of a wood fire, and in this way they prepared a stew or soup analogous to hotchpotch, or the fot au feu of the French. Mud huts, with dirt floors and a fire in the centre, were often the residence of Saxon kings. In the halls of the nobility an oak board was placed on tressels and removed after meals. On great occasions it was covered with a cloth richly embroidered. The chief food of the common people consisted of broth, barley bread, with milk, butter, eggs, and cheese. Green vege- B 2 Hy Buckmaster's Cookery. tables and beans were also used. ‘The wealthy lived on wheaten bread, game, eels, fowls, pork, venison; and the servants were called loaf-eaters. Knives were in general use, but forks were unknown. After dinner followed the dessert, which consisted chiefly of wine, honey, and wild fruits. Beer, mead, and mulberry juice flavoured with spices were their principal drinks, although French wines were not unknown. Minstrels entertained the company with vocal and instrumental music. Eating and drinking often degenerated into gluttony and drunkenness ; and the feast not unfre- quently terminated in quarrels. The principal meal of the Anglo-Saxon was dinner, and this was at eight o’clock in the morning, and supper at five in the afternoon. In r109, we find at a banquet given by one of the nobles that three sorts of broth, meat roasted and boiled, sturgeon, lobsters, eels, oysters, plaice, and horseflesh were eaten; and the bread was made with rye-meal and barley-meal in the form of cakes marked with across, and were eaten hot. The poorer classes had abundance but no great variety ; and their cooking was chiefly baking in live ashes, or boiling ; but hospitality even among the poorest was taught and inculcated as a Christian virtue. Every stranger or wayfarer who presented himself at the door of an Anglo-Saxon house, was boarded and lodged for two days without question, except priests, who were only entertained for one night ; if they remained for a longer period it was evident they were neglecting their duties. In this rude period of our history the Saxon woman was a noble example of every virtue—a good housewife, and the companion and comforter of her Vinyl, English Food and Cooking. 5 husband and children. Her occupations were spin- ning, weaving, cooking, baking, brewing, and needle- work ; and her embroidery was known on the continent as “ Fine English work.” During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries the office of cook was one of much distinction and importance. The old English families of the Cokes or Cooks sprang from professional cooks, and no one need be ashamed of the names of Butler, Brewer, or Baker, because they have their origin in trade. William the Conqueror _ bestowed portions of land on his master kitcheners. Thus we find it stated that “ Robert Argyllon holdeth a piece of land in Addington, in Surrey, by the service of making one mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our lord the king, on the day of his coronation, which mess is a kind of plum porridge or water gruel, with plums stoned into it.” This dish was served up at the royal table by the lord of the manor of Addington at the coronation of George IV., and probably at the coronation of sub- sequent sovereigns. The kitchens of the aristocracy were large, well ventilated, and well furnished with everything necessary for cooking. In a list of the utensils of a bishop’s kitchen in 1262, we have the following—“ A strong table for chopping and mincing herbs and vegetables ; pots of brass and copper of divers sizes for divers uses; trivets, tripods, and axe for chopping bones; a mortar and pestle, a mover, a pot-stick for stirring, divers crooks and pot-hooks, two large cauldrons, a frying-pan, two saucepans, a large dish (pewter), two large platters (pewter), a vessel for mixing sautes, a hand-mill for pepper, an instrument 6 Buckmaster’s Cookery. © for reducing bread to crumbs.” The monks of St. Swithin, we find, made a formal complaint to the king that the abbot had ordered the withdrawal of three out of the fourteen courses usually served at dinner. Four- teen courses at dinner show a very advanced cooking. The clergy, both regular and secular, kept excellent tables, and were given to hospitality—no one was turned from the door without a meal. A Venetian gentleman who visited England in 1500, says ‘‘ the English are great epicures, and by nature very avari- cious; they indulge in the most delicate fare them- selves, but give their household broth, coarse bread and beer, and cold baked meat, which, however, they allow them in great abundance.” The monks of Canter- bury, except on special days and seasons set apart by the church, had seventeen courses daily, besides dessert, dressed with all sorts of flavours and sauces which pleased the taste. The entertainments given to the poor by the nobles and prelates at Christmas, Easter, and Whitsuntide diffused a taste and desire among all classes for good living. Men do not proceed from rude habits of life except by contact with a higher civiliza- tion. The barons imitated what they had seen in the palace, and the humbler classes, so far as they were able, imitated the example of the barons. Then, as now, only ina more powerful degree, the aristocracy influenced the life and habits of other classes, but the rapid development of a moneyocracy has broken the chain, and I doubt if the food of the agricultural labourer is so abundant or so well-cooked as it was in the early part of the reign of Henry VIII., when almost every peasant had his pig or cow, with plenty OO ‘ Dearly English food and Cooking. 7 of milk, and right of common. Our civilization and progress in wealth have not done much for us, so long as we have a single family, for no fault of theirs, without the means of purchasing food or the know- ledge necessary to cook it. On special occasions, about three or four times in the year, the poor, to the number of hundreds and even thousands, were invited to partake of the hospitality of the baron; and when there was no room at the table the hall was littered with clean straw or rushes, and in spring and summer was decorated with green boughs and flowers. With their backs against the wall and a pewter platter or a wooden trencher on their knees, the people ate in gratitude and thankfulness their food. These hospitalities, associated with religion, and often given from religious motives by religious bodies, were the civilizing influences of a rude age. Before the Reformation the people of England were celebrated for good living, hospitality, and abundance of food. The roast beef and plum pudding of old England, which are our standard national dishes, are as old as the hills. ** For what are your soups and your sauces, Compared to the beef of old England? And, oh! the old English roast beef!” The Saxon peasant lived on cabbages, fish, cheese, butter, soup, pork, rye bread and milk; the barons and ecclesiastics on roast beef, venison, game, fish, soups of the most varied kind, and meat bathed in delicious sauces, and wines. In the early part of the sixteenth century English cooking was the best 8 Buckmaster's Cookery. cooking in the world. With the Reformation a great change took place in the domestic life of the people. Vegetables, soups, and fish, which for two days in the week had been their chief food, were regarded as a popish custom; and the making of soup and the cooking of fish gradually fell into disuse. We know, however, that ‘¢The monks of Chertsey made good broth On Fridays when they fasted.” Large establishments were broken up; cooks opened inns and hotels; the art of cooking gradually declined ; and in the reign of James II. it had fallen to its lowest depth. It revived again in the reign of Anne, and in © the time of George I. Since that time it has gradually declined, but while the fire on the domestic hearth still flickers, we hope to enlist, in these efforts to pro- mote good cookery, the best sympathies of thoughtful Englishwomen. In the reign of Louis XV. French cooking attained perfection under the cordon bleus. But English cooking is capable of a far greater develop- ment than French cooking, because we have a greater variety and better food, and we are fortunate in this school in having a greater patron that Louis XV. What is now called cooking in the houses of the humbler middle and the working classes, is little better than that of the Ancient Britons. In many of our public restaurants, hotels, and railway stations the greasy messes served up as soups, the stuff called coffee, the oxidised pieces of cold meat under yellow gauze, the pyramids of sausage rolls, the skin and gristle between slices of bread and mustard called Early English Food and Cooking. 9 sandwiches, and the wedges of pork pies, are sufficient to indicate the paucity of our resources and the bar- barous condition to which we have fallen. We hope by this school of cookery to awaken an interest in good cooking. We can teach you ow to make your food wholesome, palatable, and digestible. How much misery, and indigestion, and bad temper, arise from bad cooking! There is no civilized art so well calcu- lated, however, to quicken the best faculties of a woman. Cooking in its perfection becomes an expe- rimental science, an intellectual exercise of the highest order; and if cooking had ever been studied as a science and practised as an art, if it had ever been taught as a necessary part of a woman’s education, it would never have fallen to its present condition, nor would we have, as is now too often the case, a girl incapable of cooking a potatoe, or boiling an egg, engaged as acook. In a disputed will case, one of _the witnesses kept saying he knew the testator was a man of sound mind, and that he led a godly and pious life. The judge asked, ‘What do you mean by a man leading a godly and pious life?” ‘Please your lord- ship, he spent most of his time and money in teaching the poor to make cheap soup.” It would be a good thing for all who lead, or who think they lead a godly and pious life, if they were able “by precept and by example,” to teach the poor how properly to perform the common duties of life. LECTUKICaa ‘*¢ Fools who sow farthings and expect to reap guineas.” ‘‘ The greatest good of the greatest number is a measure of Right and Wrong.” HOUSES OF THE WORKING CLASSES—KITCHENS —OPEN FIRE GRATES — KITCHENERS — GAS STOVES —KITCHEN UTENSILS~—FIRES AND FUEL. Ir is very important that every family in every condition of life should possess the means of comfort and of health; a sufficiency of plain wholesome food and neatness of dress; and the man who has these blessings is not a poor man. ‘There can be no such a thing as contented or happy hunger. A clean com- fortable home, a few wild flowers on the table, and wholesome well-cooked food, are great helps to happi- ness and moral progress. But among a badly fed and badly housed people there will always be a craving for gin and beer and tobacco, and a low condition of morality. A family living in a dismal house, in a wretched alley, upon which the sun never shines— open, perhaps, to the rain and snow—breathe the stinking air of a crowded court or back-yard; and strive to satisfy their hunger two or three times a-day on unsavoury and badly cooked food. Alas! the Flouses for the Working Classes. 11 father of such a family, and perhaps the mother, too often find their way to the nearest public-house, and there obtain a temporary forgetfulness of their misery. Beer and tobacco take the place of wholesome food. But I know how difficult it is to cook or do anything with the grates and appliances usually found in the houses of the poor. ‘Their only resources are a dirty frying-pan during the week ; and sage and onions and a baker’s oven on Sunday. fTouses for the working classes have generally been built by speculating builders, who take land at heavy ground-rents, and crowd together on the smallest area the largest number of houses. ‘These are generally mortgaged before they are finished, and to meet the interest of money the builders must exact high rents, and if these fail the speculators pass through the chrysalis condition of bankruptcy, and come out with larger ideas on bricks and mortar and “beautiful for ever.” We live inan age of lath and plaster and stucco. Make your houses look grand outside; crowd into every room a family at three shillings a week; try and escape all rates or compound for them at 50 per cent. below other persons ; cover the scamping brick- work with plaster and whitewash ; and sell as quickly as possible to somebody who wants houses either for occupation or investment: and this is called an enterprising policy. I cannot find language strong enough to express my disgust and contempt for men who try to make 20 per cent. out of dwellings for the labouring classes; men who have made the out- skirts of this metropolis as ugly as possible; who have chopped down thousands of trees without ever planting one; who have run up dreary rows of houses with = ae narrow streets, and at every corner erected a beer- shop, which rapidly develops into a public-house; — ee a such enterprisers are among the worst enemies of the 12 Buckmaster's Cookery. - hee » ° es ’ working classes. No one can ever reproach me with any affection for these men ; they are not my affinity ; and I have denounced them over and over again in the parish vestry, which is chiefly made up of enter- prisers and publicans, until they all hate me. With improved dwellings for the working classes, such as I see on the Shaftesbury estate, I hope we. shall have improved arrangements for warming and cooking, with plenty of pure air and water. Science has not yet produced a good economic fireplace suit- able for the homes of the working classes. You do rot want a large kitchen or large range; the French cook in a very small space ; but you do want a fireplace which costs more than 7s. 6d., at which a woman can cook without being suffocated with smoke, or the grate falling into the room. One of the greatest comforts in a house is a good well-ventilated and well-lighted kitchen, with a good range and a good-tempered cook. Kitchens in large towns are mostly underground, next door to the coal-cellar. Kitchens, if possible, should be on the same level with the dining-room and well lighted from the roof, or so lighted that the light falls full on the surface of the saucepans and «stewpans.: Cooks now have to work half their time by gaslight, which is always a disadvantage ; and where the gas isnot convenient, a lucifer match or a piece of lighted paper or a candle is used to see how things — a One Gas Stoves and Kitcheners. 13 are progressing; and the ashes and drops of tallow not unfrequently fall into the saucepan. In the con- struction of a house architects think too little of the arrangements of the kitchen; but it would be much better if they would occasionally consult the opinion of acook. In this school most of our cooking has been done by gas; and I am often asked, What would you recommend? It is not my business to recommend anything. We have the old-fashioned ofen range, the closed range or kitchener, of which there are several varieties, gas stoves and charcoal stoves. Gas Stoves are very cleanly and are always ready for use; ladies can cook at them without incon- venience ; and when no open fire is required they are a great comfort; they should always be fitted up, however, with a layer of white tiles round the edges. But if a constant fire is required gas becomes costly, especially where it is used for heating a regular supply of water. On the whole, a gas stove is not desirable as the only apparatus for cooking in moderate sized families. Open Fire Ranges are more suited to English habits ; we like to see the fire and we must roast our meat. A more thorough ventilation is obtained with an open range, which, moreover, is more healthy than a gas stove ; and if you supplement the open range with a gas stove or charcoal stove, then you have all that is necessary. Kitcheners or Closed Ranges are, perhaps, the most convenient for middle class houses, because they are adapted to a greater variety of work and are safe against downfalls of soot, and the saucepans and ro. a, 14 Buckmaster’s Cookery. stewpans are not blackened with smoke. The hot- plate top is a great advantage, but a closed range ‘makes the kitchen very hot, and if anything boils over — there is not sufficient ventilation to carry off the smell which finds its way all over the house. The kitcheners are rather complicated in their construc- tion, and therefore require more intelligence in their management. Some are of opinion that roasting can be done quite as well in the roaster of a kitchener as before an open fire, but I believe in constantly basting meat, which cannot be done conveniently in an oven. Utensils.—The following list is very complete, and I have mentioned many things which are not required in a small house. Each person must be the best judge of what he really requires and what he can afford. If - you purchase ever so few things let them be good ; there is no saving, but rather waste, in buying cheap kitchen utensils. Cheap knives made of soft iron; a saw made of tin-plate; imperfectly tinned or enamelled saucepans ; skewers made of soft wire; clocks that won’t keep time; scales which give you no idea of weight ; common tin instead of blocked tin—avoid all such: they have a bad moral influence on the cook, and if the better articles cost a few shillings more, make the sacrifice ; you will be amply repaid in the comfort you have in their use; and with care they” will last a life-time. I should like to see porcelain saucepans and stewpans more used. When ladies make cooking fashionable we shall have many elegant things introduced ; for there is no reason why a sauce- pan should not be beautiful as well as useful; and tise e hae 15 working mith benutifal things will give us beautiful — ideas and associations, LIST OF UTENSILS,* Li sd. Aclock . : : 3-0 0 Weights and scales : 4.6 A thermometer in wire cage to measure up to 500° , all 5S ©) Three horse-hair sieves One tammy sieve . One colander eight inches in Sie e One five inches in diameter Two colanders four and six inches in nies with very fine perforations ; these may some- times be used insteadoftammy cloth . a0 e AacO =x &% HAR COH CON WN O A bain-marie . . : . 6 O Three kitchen knives O12 0 One onion knife : ° : : ° ae Ome, 22. A meat cleaver. ; : ‘ ° Oo 4 0 : A meat saw . ‘ 4.0 A box of cutters for ies ce piste. © 4 0 A box of cutters for vegetables O1'4. 0 A pestle and mortar nine or ten inches in rice O17 6 _ A tin sugar dredger : : : ; OF. 4 A rolling-pin. ° : . : O2°3>.0 Two paste boards . ; . . ‘ : o 8 6 Eight white basins, various : ° , Gre SO mix cishés . 5. % : ‘ > O10 O A set of skewers ; ; ° : ° O 6 Two trussing needles. : . ° oO 3 A mincing knife . ° : : oO 3 A set of larding needles . oO 6 A purée presser. : . . : ° O O Two tinned wire sieves . : ; . ots aO 6 O 6 fo) o 0 3 Oo 9 * Messrs. Benham & Sons, of Wigmore-street, have kindly affixed the prices to most of these articles, but they are liable to fluctuation. They are neither the cheapest nor the dearest, but such as can be recommended, Ps aie. 16 Buckmaster's Cookery. #. Nine wooden spoons, various ; . One pointed gravy and sauce strainer . Two gridirons : : One frying-pan eight inches t in 1 dineneees One frying-pan, six inches in diameter, to be kept for omelettes A frying kettle, nine isiches iy six eee and ‘ate inches deep, with frying basket . One thirteen inches by ten inches, four ince deep, handles at either end, and frying” basket ordrainer . : Two baking eae one six x ache the pie} ten inches in diameter . : : ; ae One egg bowl and whisk One fish kettle, twenty-two inches bye seven sates with drainer Two large metal spoons. . : ; A soup ladle Two skimmers . ; Pon . Two cylinder moulds for jeliies an creams Two plain moulds, for Charlottes and rice cakes . One pie mould, selected according to convenience A border mould Three open tart moulds. Six oval tin dishes, various, for eratian A sheet iron cover, with edges turned up about two and a-half inches, so that live coals may be placed on the top to brown gratins, &c. A slice for boiled meat and vegetables : : Eight or ten stewpans (various) with covers . . Two saucepans with covers One brazing pan, twelve inches by sight payee seven inches deep A two gallon stock pot : 3 : A one gallon stock pot . ‘ : . ° Five wooden triangles for ee saucepan on. A flour-dredger . : . . A quart, pint, half pint, —) gill: measure Dae" Two tin funnels, 4 > uo a 0.0 o-0 NK 0.0 0 Oe — ° om 1 Ee LO COW : AN HW GS OAD aAR co) mwooaoe0dod * o. flow to Light a Fire. 17 a ee —_—___—_— ‘ fe So ht Three iron saucepans for vegetables Shi... Oe ee A lemon squeezer ‘ ae Bm Lighting a fire.—Fuel has now become a very ex- pensive article in every household, and the proper management of a fire should be the constant consider- ation of the cook. To light a fire, begin by placing a few cinders at the bottom of the grate, then take some crumpled-up paper, a letter, carpenter’s shavings, or light dry brushwood, then a few dry sticks loosely across. each other, then some of the largest cinders, then a few pieces of nobbly coal about the size of a tennis-ball, and finish with a few pieces nicely placed between the bars. Light the fire in two or three places at the bottom with a lucifer or lighted paper. A servant who uses a candle is wasteful and untidy. When the fire is well lighted place some larger pieces of coal and cinders at the back, and always put on the coal either with your hands, for which you may keep an old glove, or a shovel; never throw them on from the scuttle. All the small coal, cinders, and refuse place on the top, and in a few minutes you will have a good fire; and by a good fire is not meant a wasteful and extravagant fire, but one suitable for its purpose. How often are fires allowed to blaze and waste away when there is nothing to cook, and then suffered to go nearly out, when wood is used to make it draw up. A steady uniform fire may by attention be kept up with less fuel than one con- stantly stirred and going out. Always make the best use of the fire when it is burning; your labour will be lightened by timely forethought. When a c e % ee ; a * * ; ; 18 Buckmaster’s Cookery. ate iene a family sits round the cottage fire in the evening, why not think about to-morrow’s dinner; the same fire will warm you and prepare your food, and this applies especially to soups, broths, and stews; these in the family of a working man cannot be over-estimated. _ No fire can burn without a supply of air; if your cinders and coal are closely packed, the fire will neither light easily nor burn freely. The heat of the fire causes a current of air, which mostly passes through the lower part 0 of the fire, and it is for this reason that a fire should always be stirred from the bottom. Remember always (even when you are cook- ing) to keep your fireplace and every thing about it . clean and tidy, and while the fire is burning up and the kettle boiling, you can do many little things about the kitchen. Never be idle, and be not ignorant of anything in a great or small matter. If you want a clear fire for the gridiron place a few cinders at the top, and sprinkle the fire with a little salt. Charcoal was once largely manufactured and used in this country for cooking; and in some of the old kitchens charcoal is still used; it has the recommenda- tion of great heat without flame, which is almost im- possible with coal in an open fire. On the Continent charcoal is still extensively used for cooking purposes; and for braises, preserves, arid stews there is nothing better. Coal for cooking purposes is cheaper than charcoal, and almost all the cooking operations of a charcoal stove can now be performed by a carefully regulated hot-plate or gas-stove, and unless you have good ven- tS e cs ‘ * % Fconbny of Close and open Ranges. te *% ——— tilation, the fumes from burning charcoal are danger ous; but where gas cannot be obtained, a charcoal- stove will be found a very useful addition to the open * range oo The Economy of Close and Open Ranges.—This, like most other things, depends on management. Ifa Cools =” were taught, as she ought to be taught, the elementary ; principles of heat and the construction of ranges, she would be able to manage her range more economically, How often have I seen cooks, throw on the fire more coal when there was already too much. If a closed _range be used, as only an educated scientific cook can use it, it is economical, when you remember the variety of work you can do with it. But if a cook does or will not understand the use of the dampers, and the fire is frequently and freely stirred, then a kitchener becomes a furnace, and is much more oppressive than an open range. Cc 2 ® We ka — i * ; . me . 0 ae es ; sid ; ‘ . ¥ © LECTURE III. Zi é we « Soup makes the soldier.” —Wafoleon J. ‘You cannot feed soldiers on soups made out of nothing.” — Napolesn ILL, ON STOCK SOUPS AND POT AU FEU. Soup is generally the first thing served at dinner, and when other dishes are to follow, it should never be of a heavy, satisfying character ; as a rule, our soups are too rich. But if a soup is to be the only thing, as ‘is frequently the case with the poorer classes, it should be of a nourishing character, and when no meat or meat-stock has been used, it may be improved with milk or thickened with maccaroni, pea meal, Indian meal, pearl barley, or oatmeal, and in this way all the conditions of a cheap wholesome food may be pre- pared. ‘The greatest heroes of antiquity,” says Sir John Sinclair, “lived on broth, The liquor in which mutton or venison was boiled thickened with oatmeal and flavoured with wild herbs formed the morning and evening meal in the hall of the Highland Chief Soups made without meat or a meat-stock are called vegetable or meagre soups ; they are, however, generally thickened and improved by the addition of yolk of egg and milk, called a liason. All meat ~ - soups may be regarded as a decoction in water of gelatine, ozmazone, and the flavouring of the materials used in their preparation, a3 ae Stock. ‘ at | ee ee | = rial STOCK. - Stock is the foundation of all meat soups, sauces, — and purées. It is to a cook what oil is to an oil painter ; it is the life and soul of all domestic cooking, _and has its origin in the French pot au feu. oe In preparing stock the object is to ext trom the materials the best broth, and for this purpose we should have a saucepan or stock-pot of tinned iron ; this is the cheapest and best, because it can be easily cleaned; and without a clean stock-pot or saucepan both the flavour and quality of the stock are injured. | In France a glazed earthenware pipkin is commonly used in small families. HOW TO PREPARE STOCK. To make three quarts of good beef stock, put into a saucepan or stock-pot 14 lb. fresh shin of beef, $b. bones broken into pieces, with 7 pints of clean rain- water, if you have it. Let the contents come slowly to the boil, then remove all the scum by requisite skimming. ‘The addition of a little cold water at in- tervals will facilitate the rising of the scum by altering the specific gravity of the water ; if the scum be not re- moved it will partially redissolve and spoil the clearness and flavour of the stock, and you will have the trouble of clarifying. After well skimming add the following :— I oz. of salt; I onion, weighing 5 oz., with 2 or, at most, 3 cloves stuck in it; 2 leeks, say 5 0z.; half head of celery weighing 4 oz. ; turnip cut into: quarters, weighing 5 oz. ; carrot sliced, weighing 5 oz.; parsnip sliced, weighing I oz; 1 tea- spoonful of whole pepper. The contents must now simmer at 180 to 200 degrees Ss « 4 22 Buckmaster’s Cookery. — for four or five hours ; then remove the fat by skimming, _ which can be used when cold for frying and other pur- posesigge : Take out the meat, vegetables, and bones, and strain the stock into an earthenware vessel or large _ basin, and keep it in a cool place free from dust; a piece of muslin gauze may be placed over it. Any remaining fat can be removed in asolid state when the liquor is cold. ‘Stock soup, broth, or stew should always be kept in earthenware vessels. The vegetables should not remain longer in the stock than-is neces- sary to properly cook them, as they afterwards absorb the flavour. In spring and summer, when vegetables are young, they cook in less time, but a stock may be and often is prepared without vegetables, General Stock. A stock may also be prepared from previously cooked meat and bones, but the stock will not be so good or rich in flavour as when prepared from fresh meat and bones. We never allow our children to take bones in their fingers, and after dinner the servant separates the fat, breaks up the bones, with any meat, skin, or gristle which has not been blackened by cooking, and with a few fresh bones we always have a little fair stock prepared from materials which many persons give to dogs or throw into the dust-bin. ‘The idea which must be ever present in preparing a stock or soup is absolute freedom from fat. Spare no pains in skimming, and a little kitchen- paper or blotting-paper laid on the surface will remove sparks of fat which evade the spoon. a White Stock. 22 2 4 co meen Caramel, It is sometimes desirable that stock should be of a bright golden colour, although it is no better‘on that account. The point to remember in colouring is not to alter the flavour of the stock or soup ; burnt onions or,carrots should never be used; they impart a dis- agreeable taste. The only proper colouring substance is caramel or burnt sugar, which may be prepared as follows :— e Take a clean stewpan or saucepan and put in } 1b. of pounded loaf sugar, and constantly stir it over the fire with a wooden spoon. When the sugar is thoroughly melted, let it come to the boiling point, and then boil slowly for fifteen minutes, with occasional stirring. When the sugar is of a dark-brown colour add 1 quart of cold water, then boil for twenty minutes on the side of the fire. Let it cool; then strain it,’and keep it in clean well-stoppered bottles, and it is ready for use. Caramel should be of a dark-brown colour ; if it boil too quickly it will become black, and will spoil the colour and flavour of the broth. When you use caramel put it into the soup tureen just before serving. White Stock. This stock is used for white soups. Take three pounds of knuckle or leg of veal, cut it up and break the bones; then add a slice of lean ham, and one pound of gravy beef. The white flesh of poultry or the fillets of a fowl will be a valuable addi- tion, although not necessary. Butter the inside of a three-quart stewpan, slice one onion, and place it at 24 Buckmaster’s Cookery. the bottom on the meat, and bones on it, moisten with a little water or stock, and simmer for one hour; then add three pints of water, three small carrots sliced, one leek, half head of celery, 4 oz. of salt, six white pepper- corns, and a small bunch of fine herbs. Skim frequently, and let the whole simmer for five hours; then strain through a horsehair sieve into an earthenware vessel, and the stock is ready for use. To clarify Soups. Take the white and clean shell of an egg for every quart of soup; crush the shell in a mortar, and mix the shell and white of egg with a + pint of cold water. Whisk the mixture well, and then add about as much of the boiling soup, still beating up all together. Pour the mixture to the remainder of the stock in the saucepan, still stirring briskly till the whole comes to the boiling point. Remove from the fire, and let the stock remain ten minutes or till the white of the egg or albumen separates; then strain carefully, and the broth is clarified. The albumen and egg-shells en- tangle the small solid particles floating in the soup. . If care be taken in the preparation of a stock or soup it will not often require clarifying. To preserve Broth or Stock. The first thing is to remove all the fat; then strain carefully into an earthenware vessel, and keep it in a cool place; a light gauze may be thrown over it. In winter the stock will keep three or four days, but in summer it must be looked at every morning, or it is liable to ferment, and this can only be prevented by again boiling. Liaisons. 25 ee ee Purees. The purée of any vegetable or meat is prepared by simmering till the substance is sufficiently pulpy or soft to be passed through a horsehair or tammy sieve. In the case of meat it is sometimes necessary to beat in a pestle and mortar after simmering. The sieve is placed bottom upwards over adish or tin, and with a wooden spoon or purée-presser the substance is worked through, and what passes through is called a purée, Itis sometimes necessary to moisten with a little liquor, which facilitates the passing of the Jurée. The purée of any vegetable stirred into a clear beef stock makes a soup and gives it its characteristic name. The use of Butter for Soups. Butter required for soups should be added at two different times, except in preparing a Julienne soup. The first butter goes to fry the vegetables and adds little or nothing to the flavour. But, just before serving, two or three small pieces of butter in the tureen are a very acceptable addition ; the butter should only be melted, for if boiled it loses its flavour and freshness. The addition of cold butter to soups and sauces is sometimes called a Zazson of butter. A less quantity of butter is required for sweating vegetables than for frying or browning them. Liaisons. 1. Liaisons are methods for thickening soups. One liaison is prepared by mixing flour with water, or milk, or broth. Mix the flour smooth with one of the above liquids, strain through a pointed strainer into the soup, continually stirring with the other hand. The proper 26 Buckmaster's Cookery. way to mix a /zaison is to add some of the soup to it, thoroughly mix, and then add all to the soup. , 2. Take the yolk or yolks only of eggs, say the yolk of one egg for one pint of soup; separate the white or albumen from the yolk by pouring backwards and forwards, put the yolks into a basin, beat up with a little powdered loaf sugar (if none has been used with the soup), a small piece of butter, add a quarter pint of cream or half a pint of milk for each yolk ; when thoroughly mixed, add a little soup and stir; remove your soup from the fire, and then stir in the Zazson with wooden spoon. But never allow your soups to go on the fire after adding the “azson. A Louguet garni. A faggot of herbs, is constantly referred to in cooking, and is a mixture of parsley, thyme, and bay- leaf, and sometimes marjoram, rosemary, and a clove of garlic; these are tied into a bunch, and are used for seasoning. Wash the parsley, and arrange the other herbs so that they are enclosed within the parsley. ‘The ends of the parsley should be folded over to more effectually enclose the herbs, and then tied round with string. A small handful of parsley, weighing say one ounce, one-sixteenth in weight o thyme, the same weight of bay-leaves, the same weight of marjoram, and, if used, one clove only of garlic, constitute an ordinary Jouguet garni, or faggot of herbs. For a small douguet garn¢ use half the quantity ; for a large, double the quantity. Dried herbs. These should always be to hand, and are best * General Instructions. a7 prepared in the following way: Gather the herbs just before flowering, and dry them quickly in an oven or before a screen, and pick out all the stalks. Gouffe recommends the following preparations :— quarter ounce of thyme, one-eighth ounce of mar- joram, quarter ounce of bay-leaf, one-eighth ounce of rosemary. ‘These are to be pounded in a mortar, with _ half ounce of nutmeg, quarter ounce of whole pepper, half ounce of cloves, one-eighth ounce of cayenne ‘pepper, and passed through a hair sieve, and kept i ina dry place in a well-stoppered bottle. In these propor- tions a good seasoning is secured. The proportion for mixing with salt is one ounce of the mixture with four ounces of dry salt. In addition to the usual flavourings, the following should be to hand: white vinegar, Tarragon vinegar (which you can make yourself), vanilla, garlic, orange- flower water, chillies, mixed pickles, and olive oil. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS, _ I have been advised to mention the ingredients at the head of every recipe, but I have not thought it desirable to give either the price or the time required for cook- ing, because these must vary with circumstances; nor have I thought it necessary to give such ingredients as bread, water, pepper, salt, butter, flour, sugar, and such things as are to hand in every kitchen. Before cook- ing, arrange all your things as nearly as possible in order ; no time is lost with this preliminary arrange- ment, it saves a good many steps ; and as soon as you have finished with an article put it out of your way; this will save overcrowding, or perhaps in the middle 28 Buckmaster’s Cookery. of your cooking you will have to leave off to make room for your work. I have referred to the proper manage- ment of afire in Lecture II. Wash your hands, clean your nails, and read over slowly and thoughtfully the recipe. If you cannot understand it in all its details, perhaps it will be better to substitute one which you do understand. No two cooks work exactly to the same recipe, nor is it desirable with persons who think about what they are doing. There are some recipes more difficult than a proposition in Euclid; and, as a rule, I do not advise resorting to recipes in which the cook feels doubtful. Rain water is best for all cooking purposes—but it will sometimes be neces- sary to filterit. About half a pint of soup may be calcu- lated for eachperson. Thick glutinous soups and sauces require constant stirring, and always use wooden spoons. A small teaspoonful of powdered loaf-sugar may be added to all vegetable soups, and green vegetables. Good oil may often be used instead of butter, or with butter, especially with lentils, beans, and peas. In the use of butter or dripping remember a less quantity is re- quired for sweating than frying or browning vegetables, In seasoning, be careful with vegetables, herbs and spices remarkable for strong flavours. Chervil, Tarragon and garlic, must be used with cau- tion. Strain your soups twice if necessary, and avoid as much as possible the use of ground pepper. Salt, when meat is being cooked, is best added towards the end, as its tendency is to harden the meat. Consider whether the things you propose to cook are in season, and readily obtained ; so arrange your work that you have everything ready when it is wanted, Let every- | | | | ) % Pot au Feu. 29 thing be done at its proper time, and nothing wasted ; keep everything in its» place and use everything properly. A convenient time should be selected for trying new recipes, but not when there is a dinner party. Let us begin with the Pot au Feu. This is both an economical and wholesome dish, and is well suited either to a large or small family. Beef broth is the best of broth for all cooking purposes, and no trouble must be spared in preparing it. We com- menced in this school with the jot au feu; it is the standard dish of all classes in France; and the origin of beef stock. As arule, you cannot prepare a more wholesome or hearty kind of food than by soups and stews; it is the only kind of cooking by which you obtain the full value of all your materials, and it is not only the most wholesome, but it is the cheapest and most profitable form by which food can be pre- pared for working people. What a blessing if the labouring poor only knew how to turn little scraps of meat and vegetables into good food by making soups and stews. A French peasant would live comfortably on what English people throw into the gutter. POT AU FEU AND BOUILLI. ingredients. Beef. Leek. Parsnips. Bones. Carrots. Turnips. Onions. Celery. Bouquet garni, Take a piece of fresh beef, weighing 6 lbs., and about a pound of bones; tie up the meat neatly with string or tape, and put all into a six-quart saucepan ; then fill it up with sufficient rain-water to cover well 30 Buckmaster’s Cookery. x the meat and bones, and set it over the fire. Remove carefully the scum which will rise as the water warms ; do not allow it to boil. Add at intervals cold water in small quantities ; this will have the effect of check- ing the ebullition, and will help the scum to rise. When the scum is all removed, put in about an ounce of salt, a teaspoonful of whole pepper and allspice, one onion stuck with three cloves, one leek, and three carrots of average size, cut in two-inch lengths, two turnips of average size, each cut in four, and a bouquet garnt. ‘The aboye vegetables should not be put in all at once, but at short intervals, so as to keep the contents at the same temperature, which may now be skimmed for the last time, and placed by the side of the fire to simmer gently for three or four hours. According to the season, all or some of the follow- ing vegetables may be added: a small head of celery, cut in two-inch lengths, and a couple of parsnips. At the time of serving, strain the broth, and skim off all the fat ; then add a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf- sugar. Make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup tureen over small slices of toasted bread, adding, according to taste, a portion of the vegetables cut into thin slices. Remove the string or tape, serve the meat, and garnish with mashed potatoes, spinach, or other vegetables in season. Pepper and salt should be carefully used, they can be added to suit the taste after the soup is ready. Precautions:—Remove all the scum and fat; fresh vegetables, and not to boil. a Soups. 31 GREEN PEA SOUP. Ingredients. Green Peas. Lettuce. Onion. Spinach. Stock. Mint. Take a peck of peas. When shelled this will give you about a quart, but, whatever the quantity, divide into two equal parts, then shred finely one lettuce, one onion, or a dozen spring onions, and, if convenient, twelve leaves of spinach. Take a clean three-quart stewpan or saucepan, and melt two ounces of butter ; add your vegetables and one part of the peas, a sprig of mint, and a small teaspoonful of salt, and a gill of stock ; let these stew gently in the vapour of the butter with constant stirring till the vegetables are suffi- ciently soft to pulp or pass through a sieve. Place your sieve bottom upwards over a dish, pass the vegetables through a sieve by gently working with a wooden spoon; by this process all the tough, stringy parts of the vegetables will be separated. Add the pulp (that which has passed through the sieve) to two quarts of clear stock, a teaspoonful of whole pepper, a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar, and a little more salt, if necessary. Bring it to the boil, skim, if necessary, and put it aside to simmer. This part is now ready. Take the remaining part of the peas and turn them into a saucepan of boiling water, with plenty of salt, and a small lump (size of a nut) of loaf-sugar; let them boil gently till done. Drain them through a colander and add to the soup, then serve with sippets of bread. Some cooks add a little chopped mint. The spinach gives a greener colour to the soup. a2 Buckmaster’s Cookery. Precautions.—Fresh shelled peas, sweet butter, clean stewpans, good stock, constant stirring of the vege- tables while stewing in the butter to prevent burning, are essential. GREEN PEA PUREE SOUP. Ingredients. Green Peas. Onion. Carrot. Stock. 1. Take a three-quart stewpan and boil three pints of green peas in plenty of salt and water, with one carrot and one onion. When the peas are sufficiently soft take out the carrot and onion; drain through a colander, and pass the peas through a tammy sieve; return the purée to the stewpan, and add two quarts of stock, a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar, and stir till it just comes to the boil. Stand it aside to simmer. WITH RICE. 2. Boil four ounces of rice (see recipe for boiling rice) ; when done, put into a soup tureen ; skim the soup, put half an ounce of sweet butter into the tureen, pour over the soup and stir till it is thoroughly melted, and serve. Ifthe colour is too pale a few leaves of spinach ~ passed through a fine sieve may be added. ‘The rice for this soup is all the better if boiled with a little butter. Preautions.—It is important to have fresh peas, and constant stirring till it comes to the boil. ‘ GREEN PEA SOUP WITHOUT STOCK. Lngredients. Green Peas, Proceed in precisely the same way as in the pre- ceding recipe, using the water in which the peas have been boiled instead of stock. Soups. Be Precautions.—Be sure to have fresh shelled peas, a clean stewpan, and carefully-boiled rice. LENTIL SOUP (1). Ingredients. Small lentils, Carrot. Onion. Bouquet garni. Celery. Stock. Purchase three pints of lentils @ /a reine. There are two kinds—the small (@ Za reine) and the larger variety. The small are the better for making into a purée. Wash the lentils in two waters ; then put them into a clean four-quart stewpan, and add three quarts of water (clean rain water if you have it) a bouquet garni, one onion, size of tennis ball, with two cloves stuck in it, two or three leaves of celery, one carrot ; lb. Bring to the boil, skim if necessary, and let them simmer till the lentils are soft. Remove the Jouguet | garni, the onion, and carrot. Drain through a colander. Pound the lentils in a mortar and pass them through _asieve. Return the purée to the stewpan with two quarts of stock, continually stirring till it comes to the boil. Let it simmer for one hour with the lid only partly over. Cut up a small bunch of green celery leaves ; boil them in water, or better, in a little stock ; drain them through a colander, season, skim the soup ; put the celery into the soup tureen, pour the soup - over, and serve. Precautions.—Have good lentils, and good stock ; stirring to prevent burning, and not too much celery, _ or Carrot. D 34 Buckmaster’s Cookery. LENTIL SOUP (2). Ingredients, Yellow lentils. Carrot. Onion. Celery. Take a pint of yellow lentils, wash them in luke- warni-water—the bad ones float—put them in a stewpan with three pints of water, a small onion, one ounce, a sprig of celery, a quarter of an ounce, half a small carrot, one ounce, and a quarter of an ounce of salt. Boil: then allow the whole to simmer till the lentils are cooked (which you can ascertain by pressing one between the fingers, when it should bruise easily). To accelerate the cooking, pour in every half- hour a quarter of a tumbler of cold water, starting the boiling again after adding the cold water. (It was formerly usual to soak dry vegetables for purées for twenty-four hours, but the addition of cold water whilst boiling often renders this operation unnecessary.) The lentils being well done, drain them in a colander ; reserve the liquor. Pass the lentils through a wire sieve on toa dish placed underneath to receive the purée. Moisten now and then, if necessary, with some of the liquor to facilitate the passing of the Aurée. When done, put the furée in a stewpan and add as much of the liquor as is required for the soup. Boil and sim- mer for half an hour, stirring with a wooden spoon. Put half an ounce of sliced bread in the soup tureen, and add half an ounce of fresh butter. Pour in the soup, stirring to melt the . butter. Precautions.—Be careful in selection of lentils, and see they are well cooked before making the purée. Soups. 35 * LENTIL SOUP (8). Ingredients. : Lentils. Onion. Salad oil. Bouquet garni. Rice. Spinach. Take a three-quart saucepan and put into it two quarts of warm water, half a pint of lentils, one onion with two cloves stuck into it, a douguet garni, and a gill of good salad oil, or two ounces of butter. Let. them come to the boil, and simmer for two hours, add two ounces of rice or pearl barley, and a pound of spinach blanched and chopped up. Let these boil together till well cooked, season before serving with pepper and salt. Precautions.—This soup is thick, and requires almost constant stirring. It is very nourishing. HARICOT BEAN SOUP. Ingredients. Haricot beans. Bacon. Onions. Boil a pint of haricot beans ; when half done, strain off the water and set them on with fresh boiling water, but in a smaller quantity ; add one onion stuck with - two cloves, a piece of bacon, weighing half a pound ; _add black pepper and salt to taste. Let the whole _ boil till the beans and bacon are cooked. Precautions,—Have good beans and bacon, not too | salt. - s D 2 ioe) 6 Buckmaster’s Cookery. e PEA SOUP. Ingredients, Peas, Spanish onion. Dripping. Dried. herbs. Take half a pound of good split peas, wash them in several waters, and let them soak.all night in a pint of water. In the morning put two ounces of good butter or sweet dripping into a saucepan ; when it is melted add the peas, well drained from the water, with a lump of sugar the size of a walnut ; stir the peas fre- quently, and as they begin to thicken add from time to time a little water (half teacupful); when they have been on the fire about an hour add a Spanish onion, or two or three common ones, shredded very finely, half a teaspoonful of dried herbs, and half a teaspoon- ful of dried mint. Let all boil gently for two hours longer, add water as it thickens, and stir frequently to prevent burning, then rub through a coarse sieve, return the pulp to the saucepan with a quart of good stock, add salt and pepper to taste, let it boil five minutes, and the soup is ready. This soup may be made with mutton broth, or with the liquor in which beef has been boiled, if not too salt. Then the water may be ‘omitted and the broth used instead. If the soup is required to be very thick, use one pound of peas instead of half a pound. Precautions—This soup will require frequent stirring. Soups. ae SCOTCH BROTH. Lngredients. Neck of Mutton. Onions. Leeks, Parsley. Scotch barley. Turnips. Carrots. Take a neck of mutton, and trimitas for cutlets, re- move eight of the chops and put them aside on a dish, Put the remaining part of the neck into a three-quart saucepan with two quarts of cold water, with a little pepper and salt, and two onions, one with two cloves. When the water comes to the boil skim, add altogether half a pint of the following vegetables, made up of about equal quantities, carrots, turnips, leeks, and onions, cut up into quarter inch dice. Simmer for three hours. Blanch two ounces of Scotch barley, and finish cooking it in water with a little butter and salt. Put the chops into another stewpan, with some of the broth or stock, and nicely cook them. Drain the barley, and put it into the tureen with the chops. Remove the neck of mutton on to a dish, pour over it the broth, add a dessertspoonful of coarsely chopped parsley previously blanched, and serve. Precautions.—Do not boil after adding the vege- tables. : MUTTON BROTH. Ingredients. Scrag of mutton. Scotch barley. Turnip. Parsley. Onion. Take two pounds of scrag of mutton, and put it into a large basin, cover with cold water and a little salt to remove the blood, let it remain one hour. Then put it into a stewpan, with two quarts of water, with either one ounce of Scotch barley or rice or 38 Buckmaster’s Cookery. oatmeal according to taste, and one onion. Let it come to the boil slowly, skim, and add two or three turnips cut into quarters. Let the contents simmer for two hours. A little chopped parsley or petals of marigolds are sometimes added; season with salt, strain into the tureen, and serve. For sick persons this broth should be prepared without any vegetable flavour, and should be carefully freed from fat. Precautions.—This broth should be prepared slowly, and not too strong with turnip. BRABANT BROTH. Ingredients. White stock. Spinach. Sorrel. Put two quarts of good white stock into a clean three-quart saucepan, a handful of coarsely shredded spinach and a few leaves of sorrel, let these stew in the stock till tender, with a little pepper and salt and a small teaspoonful of sugar. Take a pint of cream or milk and beat it up with the yolks of four eggs, and just before serving mix the “azson with the soup. Precautions.—Be careful with the sorrel, the acid flavour is sometimes objectionable. JULIENNE SOUP (1). Ingredients. Carrots. Turnips. Onion. Leeks, Celery. ~ Chervil. Sorrel. Take carrots (three ounces), turnips (three ounces) onion (one ounce), leeks (one ounce), celery (half ounce)—shred in small strips about one and a quarter inches long, melt one ounce and a half of good butter in a stewpan, and add the shredded Soups. 7 39 vegetables ; fry to a nice brown colour, add three pints and a half of stock, and leave it to boil at one corner of the fire. When the vegetables are cooked, skim, put in a few leaves of sorrel, and a sprig of chervil, chopped finely, add a little powdered loaf- sugar, and serve in a soup tureen after having put in several crusts of bread cut up in small pieces. Precautions.—Wash and dry the vegetables before shredding. JULIENNE SOUP (2). Ingredients. Carrots. Turnips. Onions. Leeks. Sorrel. Celery. Chervil. . This soup can be made all the year except in the months of January, February, and March, when the vegetables are too stringy to make a good Julienne. Shred into small fillets one carrot, one turnip, one onion, a leek, and half head of celery, mince a little sorrel and chervil, and put these on a plate by themselves ; melt an ounce and half of butter in a saucepan or stewpan, then add the shredded vegetables to stew in the butter till they are of a nice golden colour. Then add two pints of stock and leave it to boil ; when the vegetables are cooked, skim the contents to remove any fat. A Julienne soup should be clear and transparent. When skimmed, add the minced sorrel and chervil and a little pounded loaf-sugar, and serve with small crusts of bread. Precautions.—In this soup, use only the red portion of the carrot, and well dry the vegetables before frying. 40 Buckmaster’s Cookery. SOUP FROM REMNANTS OF JOINTS. Ingredients. Bones. Carrots. Turnips. Bouquet garni. Onions. After all the meat available for a hash has been cut away from a leg of mutton, break the bones into pieces, the addition of a pound or two of fresh bones will be desirable, put them into a three-quart sauce- pan with two carrots and two turnips cut in quarters, and two whole onions, and a douguet garni. Nearly fill the saucepan with water, add three cloves, a full tablespoonful of whole pepper and allspice in equal parts, and salt to taste. Set the saucepan on the fire, and let the contents simmer for four hours. Strain the broth, free it from fat, and use it as stock for any kind of thick soup. Pass through a hair sieve the carrots and one of the onions; melt an ounce of butter in a two-quart saucepan, and stir in a tablespoonful of flour. When the two are well mixed add a little of the stock, then the carrot and onion pulp, and gradually the re- mainder of the stock, or so much as will produce a purée of the consistency of pea soup. Pour it boiling hot over small dice of toasted or fried bread. Precautions.—Take care that the soup is not too strongly flavoured with the vegetables. CHANTILLY SOUP. Ingredients. Green peas. Parsley. Onions. Cucumber. Mint, Put into a two-quart stewpan one pint and a half of green peas, a small bunch of parsley, and a small bunch wiih 5 eactinmal Odie Soupsy 8 4I of mint with two finely-shredded onions (two and a half inches in diameter), and a small cucumber, peeled and cut into thin slices, add sufficient water to cover the vegetables, and boil with a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar till they are soft enough to pass through a tammy sieve. Strain over a colander and make a purée of the vegetables. Stir the purée into three or four pints of stock, but do not boil after adding it or you will spoil the colour of the soup. Frecautions.—A proper mixture of the vegetables so as to agreeably blend the flavours. BONNE FEMME SOUP. Ingredients. Lettuce. Onion. Chervil, Cucumber. Sorrel. Shred finely a small handful of sorrel, four lettuces, one onion, two and a half inches in diameter, a sprig of chervil, and one moderate cucumber sliced. Place the vegetables, except the chervil, in a two-quart stewpan with one and a half ounces of butter, and a little flour. Simmer and stir for about ten minutes over a quiet fire. Put into a large basin a full tablespoonful of flour, add three pints of white stock, and thoroughly mix. The liquor in which a fowl has been boiled, free from fat, will do quite well; the stock may, however, be made with beef or mutton, but the soup will not be so white. Add the soup to the contents of the stewpan, stir till it comes to the boil, then add a small teaspoon- ful of loaf-sugar. Skim and stand it aside to simmer for fifteen minutes. Just before serving add the chopped chervil, and a milk or cream Zéaison. Precautions.—Do not burn, or brown, the vegetables, 42 Buckmaster’s Cookery. SOUP MAIGRE, . Ingredients, Turnip. Carrot. Celery. Onion. Green peas, Melt slowly in a clean stewpan about one half ounce of butter; when melted add two onions, a quarter of a head of celery, a small carrot and turnips, all coarsely shredded. Let these vegetables stew in the butter for fifteen or twenty minutes until they are nicely browned, and stir frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent burning. Add three pints of boiling water, and, if at the proper season, three-quarters of a pint of green peas and six white pepper corns. When the vegetables are quite tender let the soup stand for a few minutes to clear, then strain into another stew- pan. Boil up and add an onion, half head of celery, a carrot and a turnip cut into fillets, or into wheels or into stars, with a vegetable cutter. When these vegetables are sufficiently cooked, the soup is ready. If necessary, season with pepper and salt. Precautions.—Cleanliness, tender vegetables, and good butter are essential. Stir occasionally to prevent. burning. VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. Ingredients. Vegetable marrow. Stock. Take four young vegetable marrows, about six inches in length, the green variety is best, pare and remove the seeds, cut into small pieces of an equal size, and boil in about three pints of stock. When Soups. 43 sufficiently soft strain through a sieve into another stewpan, make the marrows into a purée and return it to the stock. Boil separately half a pint of cream and add to the soup, then thoroughly mix and serve. A milk Zaison would be preferable to the cream. Precautions.—Take care to remove all the seeds. LEEK SOUP. Ingredients. Leeks. French roll. Potatoes. Trim and wash six leeks, weighing altogether about six OF seven ounces, cut them into pieces an inch long, and half an inch thick, put alittle butter into a stewpan » and cook till they are of a light brown colour ; add one quart of warm water, a pinch of pepper and salt, then let them come to the boil and simmer for about twenty minutes. Cut a French roll into slices a quarter of an inch thick, divide each into four parts, and put into the tureen. Prepare a milk //azson, add it to the soup and then serve. To convert this into a Aotatoe and leek soup add, after pepper and salt, a quarter of a pound of sliced potatoes and let the whole boil gently till the potatoes are soft enough to make into a purée. Precautions. —Carefully fry the vegetables. ONION SOUP. Ingredients. Onions, Take onions, weighing say nine ounces, cut them into slices and bleach them in boiling water. ‘Take a two- quart stewpan and melt one ounce and a half of butter, add the onions and stir till they are of a light brown AA Buckmaster's Cookery. colour, then thicken with a tablespoonful of flour and — stir for two or three minutes. Add three pints of boil- ing water, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir till it comes to the boil. Let the contents simmer for five or ten minutes. Put into the soup tureen a few slices of dried bread and about one ounce of butter. Pour the soup gently, stirring all the time to dissolve the butter. This soup may be improved with a “aison, All seasoning should be added just before serving. Precautions.—Be careful to have good onions well boiled. ’ SPANISH SOUP. Ingredients. ‘Onions. Spinach. Bread raspings. Lettuce. Celery. Endive. Bouquet garni. Thicken two quarts of water in a three-quart stew- pan with bread raspings. These may be prepared by baking in an oven odd crusts of bread to a crisp brown colour. Then reduce to powder and pass through a sieve and keep in a dry place in a dry stoppered bottle. Take four or five onions, two inches in diameter, cut each into six pieces and add them to the water and bread raspings, with a little pepper and salt, cover the saucepan closely and boil for an hour and quarter. Strain the contents into a basin or back into the saucepan. Shred a quarter head of celery, one small lettuce, half head of endive, six leaves of spinach, and a small bunch of sweet herbs; then fry in butter.’ Melt an ounce and a half of butter in a three- quart stewpan, stir in some flour till nicely browned, — Soups. 45 then add the shredded vegetables; in five minutes add the soup. Boil up till they are tender, skim, and pour into a soup tureen over fingers of fried bread. Precautions.—Be careful to dry the vegetables before frying. SPANISH ONION SOUP. Ingredients, Spanish onion, Melt in a stewpan one ounce of butter or sweet dripping, add one large Spanish onion (shredded), and one and a half ounces of wheat flour or pea flour. Stir continually for five or ten minutes, then add three pints of boiling water, a little salt and pepper, skim, and boil till the onions are thoroughly cooked. Add a milk or cream /zaison, cut up some pleces of bread and put in the tureen, pour over the soup and serve. Precautions.—Avoid hurry or boiling quickly, and let the onions be well cooked. ASPARAGUS SOUP. Ingredients. Asparagus. Stock. Take a bundle of fresh green asparagus and remove all the tender parts and points. Put the points aside for the soup and plunge the other parts into boiling water, with a little salt, and let them blanch for three minutes, then drain through a colander. Take a clean three-quart stewpan and melt one ounce of butter with one ounce of flour, add the blanched asparagus and stir the contents for about five minutes. Then add - 46 Buckmaster’s Cookery. two quarts of good white stock. Simmer till the asparagus is cooked, strain into another stewpan, make a purée of the asparagus and return to the soup and boil steadily for fifteen or twenty minutes; skim if necessary. Boil the asparagus points in salt and water. Pour the soup into the tureen and add the asparagus points. To make the soup much better, mix in the tureen — two ounces of butter and half a pint of cream, and well stir when pouring in the soup. Precautions—The asparagus must not be tough or stringy. POOR MAN’S SOUP. Ingredients, - Potatoes. Onions. Parsley. Shred three ounces of onions, and put them into a clean three-quart saucepan, with one ounce of butter or dripping or skimmings of saucepans, cook to a pale- brown colour, constantly stirring; now add one ounce of flour, and cook it for five minutes in the dripping, add three pints of boiling water and stir till it boils up, ‘skim, add one pound of potatoes, shredded or cut into small slices, and boil till they are cooked, add pepper and salt and a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, boil up, and pour into the tureen over half- inch squares of bread. This soup can be made very nourishing by using oatmeal or peameal instead of flour. If too thick, add a little more water. A milk liaison is a valuable addition to this soup. — | Precautions.—See that the fat and onions do not burn or get too dark a colour. eu Pi Soups. 47 CABBAGE AND BACON SOUP. Ingredients. Savoys or cabbages. Bouquet garni, Bacon. Take two or three young summer cabbages or savoys, remove the outside leaves, wash them in plenty of salt and water, cut them across into pieces one inch in length, and remove the hard stalk. Take a pound of bacon or salt-pork, scrape it clean, and cut it down to the rind into fillets three-quarters of an inch in section, but do not cut the rind which is to hold the meat together ; the fillets are easily removed with the ladle when serving the soup. Place the bacon rind downwards in a three-quart saucepan, then a muslin bag with a teaspoonful of whole pepper, or two cloves and three allspice, and a Jougquet garni, add the cabbage, cover well with cold water, let it come to the boil, skim, and let the contents simmer till the cabbages are well cooked. ‘Towards the end, add salt if the meat is not very salt. Serve with slices of bread in the tureen. Precautions.—Young cabbages and bacon not too lean, are necessary. OX-TAIL SOUP (1). Ingredients. Ox-tail. Butter. Onions. Bouquet garni. Carrot. Stock. Take two ox-tails of average size, cut them up at the joints, obtain as nearly as possible pieces of the same bulk. Put them into cold water with a little salt, and let them remain two hours to remove the blood. Drain them and dry them in a clean cloth ; ” ~e 48 Buckmaster’s Cookery. put them into a three-quart stewpan with two ounces of butter, and a few pieces of lean beef, and cook till nicely browned, add two quarts of stock, one onion with two cloves stuck in it, and a bouguet garni. Bring to the boil, and skim and simmer for three or four hours till the tails are cooked. While the soup is simmering slice three young carrots, and cook them with fifteen button onions in a little stock. Take the pieces of tail from the soup, remove the bones, and put the meat only into the tureen with the carrots and strain, over the soup, and serve. Precautions.—Careful cooking in the butter, and tender carrots are required. OX-TAIL SOUP (2). Ingredients. Ox-tail. Carrots. Stock. Onion. Bouquet garni. Cut up an ox-tail at the joints, and soak for two hours in water with a little salt to remove the blood, then dry the pieces in a clean cloth. Put themintoa stewpan with two ounces of butter, and cook till the pieces are nicely browned, add a little flour afid stir it, then strain in three pints of stock or water, tie up two small leeks, parsley, celery, two bay leaves, thyme and eschalot into a faggot, two carrots, and one onion, with three cloves, a little pepper, salt, and mace; let the whole simmer for three or four hours, skim carefully, strain, and serve. Precautions.—Careful cooking in the butter, tender vegetables, and not too strong a flavour, are essential. : ‘a Ne Soups. 49 MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. Lugredients, Veal. Carrot. Onions. Turnip. Ham. Apples. Curry powder, Take a small knuckle of veal, cut it up, break the bones, and put it into a stewpan with one half ounce of butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a small carrot and turnip, two onions, and four apples, all cut into quarters ; add half a pint of water. Set the stewpan over a brisk fire, moving the meat frequently with a wooden spoon ; let it remain until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with a brownish glaze, then add three tablespoonfuls of curry-powder, one of curry paste, and a quarter of a pound of flour: stir well in, and add four or five pints of water, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of sugar; when boiling place it at the corner of the fire, and let it simmer for two hours and a half, skimming off all the fat, then pass it through a tammy intoatureen. ‘Trim some of the pieces of veal and put them back into the stewpan to boil up, and add them to the soup, and serve with plain boiled rice, on a separate dish. Ox-tails, or pieces of rabbit, or fowl, left from a previous dinner, may be served in it instead of veal, or the pieces of veal may be prepared separately, and the soup strained over them in the tureen. Precautions.—Have a good curry powder, and give constant attention till the water is added. 50 Buckmaster’s Cookery. ; GIBLET SOUP. Ingredients. Giblets. Bouquet garni. Scald and pick very clean two sets of goose, or four of duck giblets (the fresher the better), wash them well in two or three warm waters, cut off the beaks and split the heads, divide the gizzards and necks into mouthfuls. If the gizzards are not cut into pieces, the rest of the meat will be done too much. Crack the bones of the legs, put them into a stewpan, cover them with cold water ; when they boil take off the scum, then put in a bundle of herbs, such as lemon thyme, winter savory, Or marjoram, about three sprigs of each, and double the quantity of parsley. Twenty berries of all- spice, the same of black pepper; tie these up in a muslin bag, and stew very gently till the gizzards are tender. This will take from an hour and a half to two hours anda half, according to the size and age of the giblets. Take them up with a skimmer, put them into the tureen, and cover down close to keep warm till the soup is ready. Melt an ounce of butter in a clean stewpan, stir in a dessert-spoonful of flour; then pour to it by degrees a gill or half a pint of the giblet liquor, add the remainder by degrees ; let it boil about ten minutes, stirring it all the while; skim it and strain it through a fine sieve into a basin; wash out the stewpan, then return the soup into it, and season it with a glass of wine, a little mushroom catsup, and a little salt; let it have one boil up, Soups. | 51 and then put the giblets in to get hot, and the soup is ready. . Precautions.—Young giblets and freedom from scum are essential. SOUP MAIGRE. Ingredients. Green peas. Bouquet garni. Bread raspings. Sugar. Lettuce. Parsley. Leek. Celery. Take a three-quart saucepan, add to two quarts of water a pint and a half of green peas, a douguet garni, a tablespoonful of bread raspings, a very small piece of mace, pepper and salt, three cloves, and a small tea- spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar ; simmer for two hours; strain into another stewpan, then add another half- pint of peas. Fry lightly in some butter the coarsely shredded heart of one lettuce, a little chopped parsley, one leek,- half-ounce of celery, add these to the soup, and let them simmer till cooked. Pour into the tureen, and serve. Precautions.—Tender vegetables and careful frying are essential. VEGETABLE SOUP. Ingredients, Onions. Turnips. Carrots. A new roll. Oatmeal. Dried herbs, Shred three good-sized onions, fry them to a nice brown colour in an ounce and a half of sweet dripping or butter, then put them into a saucepan with three E2 52 Buckmaster’s Cookery. pints of water. Cut into small slices one large or two small turnips and the same of carrots, add them fo the onions, with a pinch of dried herbs, pepper and salt. Boil gently three hours without the lid, then thicken with a spoonful of flour or oatmeal; boil ten minutes longer, and serve with pulled bread. Precautions. —Young turnips and sweet dripping are necessary, and the onions carefully fried. Pulled bread. —Take a new roll, pull it in half, tear out the crumb in small pieces with a fork, put them into the oven until crisp. POTATO SOUP. Ingredients. Onions. Potatoes. Take two pounds of potatoes, after they are peeled, and cut them into thin slices, or shred them; shred six ounces of onions. ‘Take a three-quart saucepan and melt two ounces of butter or sweet beef dripping-; put in the onions, let them cook five minutes in the butter, stir occasionally, then add the potatoes and three pints of water, or milk and water, or skim-milk ; when the potatoes and onions are thoroughly soft, strain through a horse-hair sieve, return the liquor to the stewpan, and pass through the vegetables; stir the purée into the soup, season with pepper and salt. The addition of a milk or cream /aison is a great improvement. Precautions.—Do not blacken the onions; and fre- quently stir before making the purée. . Soups. RS FISH SOUP. Ingredients, Soles, Celery. Parsley. Skin and fillet a pair of soles, cut out of the fillets with a cutter, in pieces the sizeof a penny. Put the head bones and all the trimmings into a saucepan, with one quart of stock, a large handful of parsley, a piece of celery, one onion stuck with two cloves, a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Let this boil slowly from three to four hours, skim and strain the liquor, put it on the fire again, and when it boils put in the cut pieces of sole. When they are cooked take them out, put them into the soup tureen with a little chopped parsley (blanched) ; then strain the soup into the tureen, and serve. Precautions—Do not allow the pieces of fish to remain in the soup after they are cooked. VERMICELLI SOUP. Ingredients. Vermicelli. Parmesan cheese. Stock. Take three ounces of vermicelli and bleach for five minutes in boiling water with a little salt; drain in a colander, and when cold plunge it into three pints of boiling stock, skim, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes, with frequent stirring, and it is ready. Rice, tapioca, sago, and all macaroni soups are pre- pared in the same way. When macaroni proper is used, it should be wiped with a clean cloth, and cut into one-inch lengths before adding to the boiling stock. Some boil the vermicelli or macaroni or 54 Buckmaster’s Cookery. gastes separately in boiling stock or water, drain, and put into the tureen, and pour over the boiling stock. Vermicelli and all Aasfes for soups are varieties of macaroni, and should be of the best quality. A plate of grated Parmesan cheese should be served with these soups. Precautions.—Be careful not to make the vermicelli too soft by over boiling. LECTURE IV. MISTRESSES AND SERVANTS, Be ye kind one to another, He that is slothful in his work is brother to him that is a great waster. ogg THE false notions which have grown up about work are at the bottom of much of our social discomfort. I have often insisted in this school on the dignity of all necessary labour, and nothing but false pride would ever make a woman ashamed of being known to work. There is a perennial blessedness in the faithful per- formance of household duties. Do you suppose that any man in his senses thinks less of his wife because she looks well to the ways of her own household? There is no occasion to put yourselves on terms of equality with your cooks, but a more frequent friendly intercourse between mistresses and their servants would help to a better mutual understanding. A faithful good servant is a household blessing; on her temper frequently depends your temper ; if a cook, she is the guardian of your health as well as your tem- per, but a cook who cannot cook, who does not know or care to know, who has no love of her art, who will not learn to make the best of everything, is a destroyer of your happiness, a prodigal waster of your substance, 56 Buckmaster’s Cookery. and the sooner you clear the house of such a nuisance the better. I have met at morning prayers servants and mistresses with bad tempers. ‘The religion of life has to do with the common duties of life; it is the habit of thinking and doing good things all the day long, and of being cheerful and good-natured to those who serve us; and if kindness on the part of a mistress fails to obtain kindness in return, then the sooner you part the better. But ask your- self, has there been anything in my conduct, or wishes, or language, or treatment towards my servants unbecoming a lady and a christian ? Perquisites, I have often spoken against. No inven- tion of the devil has been a more fruitful source of dishonesty and of waste, and mostly among servants. The percentage of the tradesman, the sale of kitchen grease, which is often good dripping, the skimmings of saucepans, and fat meat most useful in the kitchen, ought to be discountenanced in every household. To sell fat at fourpence per pound and purchase lard at elevenpence ; to purchase egg powders and charge for eggs, is simply dishonest. Better give your cooks two or three pounds a year more, and encourage them to make the best of everything, than allow perquisites. Well may Mrs. Brown believe that the race of honest servants, like the Trilobite, is an extinct species. ‘The maid of all work is a maid of no work; the cook is extravagant, impudent and short tempered, the housemaid is an untidy slattern, and the lady’s maid a proud time-serving minx. If a mistress when engaging a servant knew how to per- form the various duties of a house, she would not have Mistresses and Servants. 57 so much trouble in obtaining a good servant, and the only way to learn these duties is to do them. The physical exertion would be healthful; the scrubbing of a room, the use of a pestle and mortar, the wringing of a blanket, the sweeping of a carpet, and the making of bread, are the best calisthenic exercises for ladies. The physical effort called forth in the performance of these duties would be far more beneficial to health than either tatting or wool-work. You must not understand by these remarks that I am speaking against accomplishments in a lady; but of what value are these accomplishments unless they teach the elegancies and duties of domestic life. A knowledge of cooking may go, and has often gone, with the highest culture, and most delicate refine- ment. The most elegant and accomplished ladies at the cookery school are among the best cooks; they can clean a saucepan or they can prepare a dinner that would do no discredit to a professional cook. I wish this habit was more fashionable among the middle classes. ‘The modern housewife often thinks it genteel to affect the most oblivious ignorance of household work ; can you wonder at servants taking advantage of this ignorance, and speaking despisingly of their mistresses, as stuck up know-nothings? Now the true remedy for this state of things is the better education of all classes in the practical performance of house- hold work, and the chief duty of every household, around which all other duties aggregate, is cooking. I sometimes wonder how many of the young ladies one meets at places of public amusement, are able to undertake the duties of managing a house, and yet I 58 Buckmaster’s Cookery. =, = oy have read somewhere that every lady expects before she is thirty to undertake these duties. I sometimes hear them not only acknowledge their ignorance of all household work, but make a boast of it, as if nothing would so debase them in the estimation of their acquaintances, as their ability to make a loaf of bread or to prepare their husband’s dinner. White hands, pretty faces, large chignons, curiously cut panniers, high- heeled boots, and an artless ignorance of the practical work of a house, may appear to a poor deluded soul of a young man rather interesting, but, alas for the man who marries such a woman, unless he also marries the Bank of England! He soon learns that this world is made up of hard rugged facts and experiences, and that the most romantic of persons must have some- thing to eat. To sit and look at a doll will not satisfy an empty stomach, or make the pot boil, or put anything into it. The young ladies are not entirely to blame; their mothers have rather encouraged their ignorance of domestic management, but happy beyond description 1s the young woman, whatever her rank or station in life, who has been early taught the blessed- ness of household work. If mistresses were better taught, there would be little difficulty with servants, but it is hopeless to expect better instructed servants, or better behaved servants, until we have better in- structed mistresses ; and in dealing and speaking with - domestic servants, remember that of one flesh and of one blood He made all nations. You must not interpret what I am about to say as unfavourable to orphan schools and asylums for girls. It is the practice of these institutions to send girls at sixteen or Cc seventeen into domestic service. ‘Their first situation is often a place where the mistress would be all the better for doing the work herself, and whose circum- stances do not admit of her acting justly towards a servant. The first situation often disgusts a girl with domestic service, and she prefers the slavery of the needle and the factory, and the freedom of the street. In large establishments everything is done by machinery. Hot and cold water, coals, cleaning, washing, drying, and even scrubbing and sweeping, are done by steam ; potatoes are washed, and food is cooked, not in pounds, but tons. You might as reason- ably expect a man to learn farming in a hot house, as to obtain good domestic servants (except by accident) from large establishments. The whole economy of these places is unfavourable to domestic service; a servant of all work generally begins life by wheeling for hours on the pavement a perambulator with two children, crying or sucking vigorously at the ends of india-rubber gas-tubing. Everything about her is wretched, depressing, and uncomfortable, and in a month she makes a change, till at last, if she fall no lower, she becomes the wife of a soldier or of a brick- layer’s labourer, and the one room, called a home, is a den of filth and misery, and with a baby in her arms she goes into the streets to sell lucifers. I have been told by a lady of some experience that these girls generally make the worst of wives. But domestic service was once the highest ambition of girls, and would be again if we would only act a kindly part towards them, and do a little to make the poor things happy and hopeful. Almost among the earliest things 60 Luckmaster’s Cookery. : ER I can remember, were two clean, fresh-complexioned young women, with strong boots and straw bonnets of their own plait; they were the daughters of a small farmer in a neighbouring village, and they had come to thank my grandmother for some little kind- ness before they went to service. They had each a glass of mead and a piece of cake. I recollect the waggon waiting at the end of the village, and most of the people had turned out to wish them good luck and good bye. They sat behind on their little wooden boxes (made by the village wheelwright), which they opened to show my grandmother, and they looked very pretty and cheerful. The waggon, with six horses, started on its journey, and my grandmother and I walked across the meadow to meeting. I was a little boy without a mother. It was a lovely evening, the sun went down and seemed to rise again. At meeting there were only about five or six persons. We sat quietly for some time, as was the custom, and we often separated without a word, but this evening my grand- mother, who was not a minister, prayed fervently that God would be a perpetual shield and protection to these two girls, who were not of our way of thinking on religious matters. Compare this with two sisters leaving Whitechapel or Lambeth for service in our time ! Domestic servants were once taken from a very different class of society. Farmers and small trades- people used to train their daughters with a view to service, but the servants were treated more as equals and as part of the family. Now they are frequently taken from the lowest class of society. It is in these Mistresses and Servants. 61 times something for a poor girl to have a cheerful fire, a comfortable bed, a clean hearth-stone, plenty of food and decent clothing; and these, I should hope, are secured in most houses by domestic servants. In return for these, the mistress has a right to faithful service, obedience, carefulness, cleanliness, order, and a kindly interest in the welfare and happiness of the family ; although a servant, there is nothing to pre- vent her feeling that she is one of the family. It was this feeling which kept girls in their first situations till they either married, or died old servants in the ser- » vice which they entered as young women. It is some- times said, that this cannot be done in small houses where only one or two servants are kept; but I know from experience that it is just as easy to keep servants for years in small houses as in large. I have been married twenty-three years, and I have never kept but one servant, and have never had but three, and two of them left to be married, and I believe the offer of double the wages would never have induced one of them to leave us. The great secret is to treat servants kindly, to take an interest in them, and in most instances kindness begets kindness. If you find your efforts to engage the love of your servant of no avail, then the sooner you separate the better; but, before separating, ask yourself, “‘is it from any fault of mine that I have failed ?” Never keep a servant who feels no interest in the family, or who would not rise in the middle of the night to serve you, or who per- forms her daily work without a smile. I like to hear a girl sing over her work ; it shows she is happy. In dress, which is a constant source of complaint 62 Buckmaster's Cookery. and misery in many families, let mistresses set an example of neatness and good taste. ‘The vulgarity of the rich people is, for the most part, far worse in its influence on society than the vulgarity of poor _people. Nothing conveys a better idea of a woman’s culture, whether a servant or a mistress, than the propriety and neatness of her dress. ‘* Neat, trim, and tidy, there she stood, No finery of dress, But simple, modest, woman-like, + And pretty not the less. ~ **No hoop to swing and knock about, The firm and well-starched skirt Sits well, and just was short enough To clear the dust and dirt. ‘¢ And round her pleasant, cheerful face No vulgar colours shone; The neat white frill and well-brushed hair Had beauty of its own.” If there is any tendency to vulgarity in the style or colour of the mistress’s dress or bonnet, any large _ display of jewellery, these will be exaggerated in the servant. Teach your servants good taste in dress, not by tracts, and sermons, and fault finding, but by the - more powerful example of a meek and quiet spirit ; and a mistress ought to feel rather complimented than angry when her example is followed by others, The love of ornament is no doubt instinctive in a woman, and those who have had a better education should guide and direct it among those who have not had the same opportunities. A clean, neatly dressed, 3 Mistresses and Servants. 63 cheerful servant, 1s a perpetual charm in every house- hold. The only certain method of making good servants, is to make those dependent on you respect and love you. They cannot be made by fear to fulfil your wishes, but love and respect will command anything. The subject may appear too homely and common- place to require consideration ; it is however one of importance. We are all in some sense servants one of another ; the rich are as dependent on the poor as the poor are onthe rich. There is a mutual servitude and a mutual obligation in every condition of life, and there is no sense in assuming high looks, and thinking and acting otherwise. ‘The best servants are those who are best served; and the goodwill and kindness which we show to others are by them accorded to us; for it is a sin to suppose that domestic servants are by nature worse than their mistresses. We cannot have a better example of what our behaviour towards servants should be than that afforded by Boaz in his language to his reapers, when he came into the har- vest field where Ruth the Moabitess was gleaning. Ruth, as we may all remember, was a young widow, living with her mother-in-law Naomi. These two came down to Bethlehem in the time of barley har- vest, and Ruth went to glean in the field which be- longed to Boaz. Instead of flying into a passion and uttering oaths, or indulging in coarse jokes to those working and gleaning, the address of Boaz to his servants was, “‘ The Lord be with you !” and they answered him, “ The Lord bless thee.” ae a LECTURE @, HASHES AND STEWS. Better is a dinner with herbs where love is than a stalled ox and strife therewith. te If music be the food of love, play on. ee s *- HASHED mutton is the horror of most husbands, but this arises from its not being properly prepared. The first thing required is tender meat; if the leg or shoulder of mutton be tough the hash will be tough; but good tender mutton, with every piece which has seen the fire carefully removed, and if the hash be pro- perly prepared, may be made a palatable inviting dish. Cold mutton, with a few sprigs of parsley and mashed potatoes, is considered by most men a sufficient justification for not coming home to dinner; but what - is good enough for the wife and children, ought to be good enough for the husband. I quite admit that the greasy messes called hashes are not very inviting to a man after a hard day’s work; but there ought to be no such thing as greasy messes, nor any place where a man can obtain a better, a cheaper, or happier dinner than with his wife and children. As for bachelors, it is not of much consequence where they dine or what they eat. The family dinner is the humanizing influ- ence of every household. ‘There is a freedom which flashes and Stews. 65 never obtains at any other time, and you get at th2 inner life and thoughts of your children. Sir Thomas Lawrence used to invite his sitters to dinner that he might strictly understand the natural expression of their characters. It should be the study of the wife to make the plainest food varied and attractive by good cooking, and she has a right to expect in return love from her husband and children, and a kindly interest in all the affairs of the family. It is now some years ago, more than one likes to remember, that I had a bachelor friend ; we used to take long walks together, and discuss the affairs of the country, and put everything right. My friend was a philosopher : he used to say, ‘‘ Well, I’ve seen so many fellows make a mess of getting married that I shall be very careful what sort of woman I marry, that is, if I should ever be fool enough to marry.” All this, and much more, my friend used to preach to me whenever an opportunity offered. We were both in the convict service, but not as convicts ; he was my senior and had a salary of about 150/. a-year, rising up to 2504. He was moved from the country to London, and for a time we were separated. In course of time I came to London, and our walks and our friendship (which was the purest and most disinterested I have ever known) were renewed; but my friend had become a changed character. He talked of the misery of being alone in London, and he frequently spent his evenings at a house where there were two young ladies, one of whom was very accom- plished. She could do something in water-colours and wool-work, could talk French, knew all about the~ F 66 Buckmaster’s Cookery. kings of Judah, and the march of the Ten Thousand ; and, among other accomplishments, she could sing at the Penny Readings. I reminded my friend of a verse in Ecclesiasticus, ‘‘ Avo'd the company of a singing woman, lest thou be overcome with her attempts.” He was alittle angry, but was anxious to introduce me to the other daughter, but I had given offence to the mother by a speech at the Christian Young Men’s Tea-party, at which the mother and these young ladies were present. JI said that halt the young ladies of the present day would wonder how the apple got into the dumpling, and all the mothers and the young ladies present considered this very insulting. As all the parties are now dead, there can be no impropriety in my refer- ring to this circumstance. My friend got married on 200/, a-year, and a man and his wife may live respect- ably and comfortably on 200/. a-year, if the woman knows how to cook and the family is not too large. He took a semi-detached villa, one of those ugly plaster things in which the neighbourhood of London abounds. Two months after my friend was married, he wished me to dine with him and be introduced to his wife. We met by appointment at the station and arrived at the semi-detached villa, which was like a packing-case with square holes. ‘The hideous cast-iron railings in front, the compo steps leading to the front door ; the sixpenny knocker, painted black, with a goat’s head ; the newly varnished door, cracked and split in every direction by the sun, ike a map of Europe. The newly gravelled path ; the yellow marble paper and narrow passage, with the drawing-room separated from the dining-room by folding-doors, which would Flashes and Stews. 67 neither open nor shut; cheap ugly fireplaces, with iron sufficient to make a railway—25 per cent. was the leading idea of the man who built it. Inside and outside there was nothing but show and untruthfulness. The drawing-room carpet was beginning to show by faint white lines the exact width of the flooring- boards. The kitchen chimney had caught cold and smoked, so we had to wait about three-quarters of an hour beyond the time appointed for dinner, which neither improved my friend’s temper nor his language. I kept saying it was all right, and as we had nothing» to do, waiting was of no consequence. At last the happy moment arrived. Onlya plain dinner, fish and a leg of mutton; they kept a very plain cook and a waiting-maid. I thought this rather strong on two hundred a-year, but everybody must be the best judge of their own affairs. A piece of turbot came up hke fish-soup, in small pieces ; it had been boiled to rags and strained over a colander, and I should never have known what kind of fish it was if I had not been told. My friend, I could see, was getting uncomfortable ; he complained about good fish being spoilt and the waste of food and soon. ‘Then followed the leg of mutton, black all over except the ends. Attempts had been made to scrape off the black, which had removed the skin, which had been clumsily stuck on again; it looked anything but nice. When the knife went ~ into it off came the skin, and you could see that from about three-quarters of an inch from the outside it was as fresh and as tough as it was in the butcher’s shop. My friend was bursting with anger, but his wife said, very blandly, “ Cut off the outside, my dear, the remainder F 2 68 Buckmaster’s Cookery. will do for hash ; I am told it is all the better for not. being too much dane Then came the vegetables, cabbages and WN? | the potatoes in a squashy condition and the cabbages raw. My friend now made use of language I had - never heard him use before. His wife remonstrated with him, she threw all the blame on the servants, who had, perhaps, never seen a leg of mutton before, except in a butcher’s shop. After my friend was a. little more composed he said to his wife, ‘‘ You ought to have seen to the cooking yourself.” And now for the climax. His wife replied, “ Very complimentary to know that when you married me you thought you were marrying a cook.” My friend swore, it was not his habit. His wife cried and left the room, and this is how two young persons commenced their married life on two hundred a year. We went into the garden and smoked ; my friend seemed a little comforted with his pipe. I began to-feel he had made a mistake, but his was one of those natures that could not or would not be reasoned with. He gradually took to dining away from home, and spending his evenings with sporting men or at billiards, he be- came a gambler and a drunkard, lost his situation, and died at thirty-one in an hospital. His wife endeavoured to earn a livelihood for herself and her little child by teaching music, and after a wearisome struggle the child died, and the mother shortly followed to that place where the weary are at rest. What a misfortune that this young lady had never been taught the practical. duties of domestic life, for God intended that man and wife should be happy in this world, but Pride, Pretence, = ai Flashes and Stews. ii erate and Hypocrisy make us miserable. How to roast a leg of mutton is better than singing at Penny Readings, and for the benefit of young ladies whose mothers have neglected their education, I will endeavour to teach them how to make Hashed Mutton an attractive dish. HASHED MUTTON. Ingredients, Eschalot. Cold mutton, Tomato sauce. Bouquet garni. Walnut. Cut up neatly from a leg of mutton or other joint all the meat in pieces about the same size. Remove all the fat, skin and bone, and every piece which is burned or blackened by the fire, or the hash will have a strong disagreeable flavour. ‘The parts not used for hash may go into the stock-pot. Melt in a quart stewpan one ounce of sweet butter, then two finely minced eschalots and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and stir for five minutes. Now add two gills of stock, salt if necessary, half a teaspoonful of whole pepper, one clove, three allspice, a bouquet garni, a teaspoon- ful of walnut ketchup, or half the quantity of Worcester sauce, and a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Stir con- tinually till the contents come to the boil, keep boiling a few minutes, then strain into another stew- pan, and let the sauce cool before adding the meat or it will harden. When cold lay in the pieces of meat, place the stewpan over the fire, and let the contents gradually warm, occasionally shake the stew- pan, and be careful not to let the hash boil. As soon as the meat is sufficiently warmed serve with sippets of bread fried in butter. fo. o Buckmaster’s Cookery. Precautions.—Do not allow any of the tough skin or gristle to go into the hash, and only let the meat be warmed through in the sauce. STEWS. Stewing is the basis of what is called made dishes. The perfection of stewing depends upon the slow pro- cess by which the cooking is accomplished; the tempera- ture should never exceed 190°. We often fail because we are in too great a hurry; but a stew, like every- thing else, suffers from being over-done. No rule can be given; everything depends upon the intelligence and judgment of the cook. The lid should be removed as little as possible. An occasional shaking of the stewpan will often save the trouble of stirring. Stewing is the most economical kind of cooking ; the flavour and nourishment of all the materials are secured ; and if the dish be not greasy and highly seasoned, the meat is made tender, savoury, and easy of digestion. IRISH STEW. Lugredients. Neck of mutton, Onions. Potatoes. Take a neck of mutton, trim off some of the fat, and cut into as many cutlets as you have bones; shape them, and sprinkle them with pepper. Peel six moderate sized onions; and for every pound of meat take one pound of potatoes. Blanch the vegetables separately. Take a clean three-quart stewpan, and add half a pint of water or stock. Arrange a layer ot potatoes at the bottom of the stewpan, then cutlets then onions ; then potatoes, then cutlets, then onions ; Flashes and Stews. 71 and let the top have a good layer of potatoes. A rasher or two of bacon or ham is a valuable addition. Stew very slowly till the cutlets are done. See that there is sufficient stock or water to prevent the stew from burning. Scrag end, or inferior pieces of meat, or the remains of previously cooked meat, may be used ; and if the mutton is not very fat, add a little butter to the contents of the stewpan. HUNTERS -PLE. Mash the potatoes, arrange the meat and onions in an earthenware pie dish. The top of the potatoes should be covered or they will burn before the meat is cooked. The top may be glazed with white of egg, or the pie may be baked in a mould. Mashed pota- toes make a good pastry for layers of meat. j Precautions.—Keep the lid very close for the Irish Stew. Some cooks make a luting of flour and water. Do not let the stew or pie be greasy. STEWED EELS. Ingredients. Eels, Bouquet garni. Lemon peel. Onions. Stock, Skin, and cut into pieces about two inches in length, two pounds of eels ; wash in salt and water, and dry in a cloth. Take a three-pint stewpan, put into it one ounce and a half of butter, one onion shredded thinly ;’ add a little flour, pepper, and salt, an onion with two cloves, a bay-leaf or a bouquet garni, and a piece of lemon peel ; add the pieces of eel, and fry-to a nice colour, with constant stirring. Add a half pint or three gills of good stock. Stew gently till the eels are done. Take 72 Buckmaster’s Cookery. them out, arrange on a dish, strain over the sauce and serve with toasted bread cut into triangles and arranged round the edge of the dish. Precautions. —The stew requires constant attention, and must only simmer. HOTCH-POTCH. Ingredients. Neck or scrag of mutton. Green peas. Onions. Carrots. Turnips. Cauliflowers. Stock. Grate rather coarsely two young carrots, and slice three carrots, three turnips, and three onions; shred one lettuce and a bunch of parsley, altogether say a quart. Take a pint of green peas when shelled, and the sprigs of a cauliflower. Put aside half the peas in a basin. Have ready in a clean four-quart stewpan three pints of mutton stock or broth. Put in all the vegetables except the peas put aside in the basin. Have ready cutlets as for Irish stew, and put them in the stewpan. Let the contents come slowly to a boil, then add two ounces of pearl barley or rice, previously blanched in a little water or stock, and simmer till the meat is ready. Skim and season with white pepper and a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf sugar. Boil the remaining peas separately, and add them just before serving. Hotch potch should be thick. Precautions.—Young vegetables are very necessary in preparing a good hotch-potch. STEWED PIGEONS (1) Ingredients. Pigeons. Bacon. Mushrooms, Butter. Onions. Stock. Take three house pigeons (they are the best), draw, iain flashes and Stews. a pick, and singe them. Put the livers inside, and truss them with legs inside. If the pigeons are large you may divide them into halves. Take a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, cut it into one and a half inch dice, and fry with an ounce of butter in a stewpan till of a light brown colour. Put the pigeons in the stew- pan and fry till they are of a light brown colour. Then take outthe baconand pigeons and put themaside onaplate. Thicken the butter in the stewpan with flour; add a pint of stock with a few button mush- rooms or ketchup. Season with pepper and salt, stir till it comes to the boil, and strain into a basin. Rinse out the stewpan with a little hot water, and put in the pigeons, breasts downwards, with the gravy and bacon and a,bouquet garni; add ten button onions pre- viously blanched and fried in a little butter to a nice ‘brown colour. Simmer about half an hour. Take out the pigeons, put them on a dish. Bring the sauce to a boil, skim, and strain the sauce over the pigeons, and garnish with the onions, bacon, and mushrooms. Instead of onions and mushrooms garnish with green peas or French beans. Precautions.—It will be necessary occasionally to move the pigeons in the stewpan, or they are liable to burn. STEWED PIGEONS (2), Ingredients. Pigeons, Bacon. Stock. Bechamel sauce. Proceed as already described. Cut off the heads and necks of three house pigeons, truss them, and tie round each of them a rasher of fat bacon. Put them breast downwards into a stewpan with a little rich “Tie 74 Buckmaster’s Cookery. stock, and let them simmer till done. Keep the lid closed. Put them on a dish, and remove the string, pour some Bechamel sauce over the pigeons, and serve with French beans or other vegetables. Some cooks divide the pigeons into halves before stewing. Precautions. —Young pigeons are necessary. STEWED FOWLS. Ingredients. Fowl. Mushrooms, Tomatoes. Stock. Parsley. Prepare and cut up at the joints a fowl or chicken. Take a six-pint stewpan, melt two ounces of butter, and fry in it for five minutes one ounce of sliced carrot, and one sliced onion, stirring with a wooden spoon. Put in the pieces of fowl, with a little pepper and salt ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring so as to thoroughly mix with the butter. When mixed, add at intervals about a pint of good stock, and four ounces of picked tomatoes with the skins and seeds removed, and broken in pieces. Stir, and let it come slowly to the boil; then simmer. Now adi six button mush- ° rooms cut into slices, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Let it come to the boil, simmer for ten minutes, then skim, baste, and serve. Precautions.—Fresh tomatoes and mushrooms are essential. STEWED RABBITS. Ingredients. Rabbit. Onions. Mushrooms. Lemon. Cut up a young rabbit into small joints, and put them aside. Take a quarter of a pound of streaky bacon, and cut it into small slices, Melt in a clean et ee ee ee ee flashes and Stews. 75 stewpan one ounce and a half of butter, or sweet drip- ping ; add the bacon, and when lightly fried add the pieces of rabbit, and fry to a nice brown, constantly stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. Now adda tablespoonful of flour, work it well, and add at short intervals a little water or stock, stirring all the time till the pieces are just covered, season with pepper and salt, anda small piece of lemon peel. Skim, then simmer slowly, and add a dozen button onions and six mushrooms, both previously blanched. When the rabbit is done, take it out, and arrange it ona dish. Boil the sauce, which should just coat the wooden spoon, skim, and pour it over the rabbit. Precautions.—The rabbit must be young, and see that it does not burn or boil. The flavouring should be delicate, and the sauce free from fat. STEWED BREAST OF VEAL. Ingredients. Breast of veal. Oysters. Lemon. Mushrooms. Cut off the neck, and remove the bone from a breast of veal, and stew them for stock. Stuff the thin part of the breast with some savoury forcemeat. Secure the stuffing nicely by sewing or with skewers. Simmer for nearly two hours the veal in the stock made with the neck and bones. Takea pint of the stock for sauce, and thicken it with a little flour and a dozen oysters previously stewed, the beards removed, and cut up, six button mushrooms minced, and a dozen white peppercorns ina muslin bag. Strain the sauce hot over the veal, and garnish with slices of lemon and forcemeat balls. Cream, wine, truffles, ketchup, anchovy, are all occasionally put into this dish. 76 Buckmaster’s Cookery. Precautions.—The stock should be made some time and allowed to cool before putting in the veal. STEWED STEAK. ingredients, . Beef or rump steak. Onions. Carrots. | Turnips. Take two pounds of beefsteak, or better rumpsteak, an inch and a quarter or inch and a half in thickness, and not too fat. Beat it with the flat side of a chopper, or what is better a kreatone, which is an instrument invented by a medical man at Chester to make steaks tender, and which may be used for such purposes with advantage. Cut the steak into convenient pieces, and fry them in two ounces of butter to a nice brown on each side. Cut into thin slices two onions and two young carrots, and cut into quarter-inch dice two young turnips, or cut them into shapes with a vegetable cutter, and fry these vegetables in the same butter. Put the meat and vegetables into a clean stewpan, with half a pint or three gills of water or stock, simmer slowly the meat is tender. When half done, turn the meat on the other side. Skim, season with a little salt and pepper, add a little ketchup or six button mush- rooms, or flavour the gravy with anything you prefer. Take out the meat, thicken the gravy with a little flour, let it come to the boil, skim, pour over the steak, and serve. Garnish with green peas or French beans. Precautions.—The steak must stew slowly, be free from fat, and not too highly seasoned, flashes and Stews. ie AUSTRALIAN MEAT STEW, Lnzredients. Australian meat. Onions. Ketchup. Worcester sauce. Stock. Stew six onions in two ounces of butter or dripping till thoroughly done. Cut the meat across the grain into slices, about half an inch in thickness, Divide the onions into two parts, and put one part at the bottom of a clean frying-pan, season with pepper and salt, place the slices of meat on the onions, and add, if you have it, a teaspoonful of ketchup or Worcester sauce. Cover the meat with the remainder of the onions, put a saucepan lid on the frying-pan, and gently warm the meat through by putting it in the oven. ‘Two table- spoonfuls of stock or water may be added, if necessary, to prevent the stew from being too strong. Serve with potatoes, or other vegetables. _ Precautions —Remember the meat is already cooked, and must only be warmed through. JUGGED HARE. Ingredients. Beef-steak. | Bacon. Bouquet garni, Bay-leaves. Cut the hare into pieces, each about two inches in length. Place at the bottom of a stewpan, or better an earthenware jar, half a pound of beefsteak, and one or two rashers of bacon or ham, a bouquet garni, an onion with three cloves, the rind of a lemon, and a little water or stock. Give the inside of the jar a rub with a clove of garlic. Then put in the pieces of hare, and season with pepper and salt, cover very closely, if necessary, with flour-and-water paste. Place the jars 78 Buckmaster’s Cookery. in a large saucepan or copper, with water up to within two inches of the top, or in a slow oven for three hours. When ready, skim off the fat, take out the pieces of hare, thicken and further season the sauce if necessary. Arrange the pieces of hare on a dish, pour over the hot sauce, and serve. Precautions.—Have a close-fitting lid, and a little hay or something at the bottom of the saucepan in which the jar is placed to prevent it moving over with the ebullition of the water. MINCED VEAL. Ingredients. A rasher of lean ham. A bouquet garni. White stock. Lemon. Cut up with a sharp knife into small slices the re- mains of any cold veal; trim off all the fat, gristle, and brown parts which have seen the fire. If you have no stock, prepare a little in the following manner. Take a clean stewpan, break up the bones, add the trimmings of the veal and of any odd pieces in the larder (a slice of ham is acceptable), cover with water, and season with pepper and salt, a bouquet garni, a blade of mace, and fifteen peppercorns, a slice or two of lemonpeel (and a small sliced carrot and onion if the flavours are liked). Let these simmer for two or three hours. Strain into a basin, let the stock cool, and remove ‘all the fat. Melt in a stewpan an ounce of — butter, stir in a tablespoonful of flour, add the stock, boil, skim if necessary, and stand it aside to cool a little ; then stir in the veal; let it gently simmer, just — ee See Se Oe _ Hashes and Stews. 79 sufficient to warm the meat through. A spoonful ot cream is an acceptable addition to the mince. Serve with toasted or fried sippets of bread. Precautions.—Vhe careful preparation of the sauce is important, and the meat should be cut into pieces of uniform size. HARICOT MUTTON. Ingredients. Neck of mutton. Onions. Carrots. Pickles. Catsup. Turnips. Haricot properly means French beans; it now means meat cut into chops, and stewed with vegetables. Divide three pounds of the best end of neck of mutton into chops; trim and shape them and re- move the fat. Cut two onions into slices, cut three moderate-sized turnips and three carrots into fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter. Take a clean frying- pan and fry the cutlets lightly in butter over a brisk fire, but do not cook them. Fry the vegetables in the same butter for three or four minutes, but do not brown them or change their colour. Put the cutlets into a stewpan, lay the vegetables on them, and cover with stock, and let the contents come slowly to the boil. Skim off all the fat, then put aside to simmer until the chops are tender; season with pepper and salt, and finish with a tea-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup, and mixed pickles finely minced. Dish the chops in a soup-dish, pour over the gravy and vegetables, and serve. Precautions. —Freedom from fat and delicate flavour- ing are necessary. 80 Buckmaster’s Cookery. STEWED ONIONS. Ingredients. Onions. Eschalot. Parsley. Mushroom. Take half a dozen large onions, peel them, and cut off the tops and bottoms, but not so as to fall into ‘pieces. Blanch them in two quarts of boiling-water for twenty minutes, drain on a colander and take out the centre of each onion and fill it with fine meat flavoured with chopped parsley, eschalot, and button mushrooms, butter the onions, put them into a stew- pan with white stock, and let them simmer over a . slow fire, turn them over, and, when tender and covered with a glaze, they are ready. Precautions. —Be careful in the selection of the onions, and let them stew gently. STEWED VEGETABLE MARROW. Ingredients. Vegetable marrow. Mignonette pepper. Lemon, Take a vegetable marrow, peel, trim, and remove all the seeds. Cut it into sections like an orange, melt an ounce of butter in a six-pint saucepan, put in the pieces of marrow, season well, a little nutmeg, mignonette pepper, salt, and a small tea-spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar, add half a pint of white stock, and let the marrow boil gently for ten minutes ; when it is cooked take it out carefully and place it on a dish, mix with the sauce a small piece of butter and the juice of half a lemon, skim, taste, then pour the sauce over the marrow, and serve hot. ) Precautions.—Young vegetable marrows are essen- tial. Stews, . 8I STEWED LENTILS AND BACON. Ingredients. Lentils. Bacon, Parsley. Soak for three hours in cold water half a pint of len- tils, put them into a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and let them boil for half an hour, then strain them over a colander. Return the lentils to the saucepan, and cover with barley-water, which is the water in which pearl barley has been boiled ; add an onion with three cloves, and a douguet garni. Scrape and trim a pound of bacon or salt pork, which will be all the better if previously blanched for a few minutes. Put it in the saucepan with the lentils, and simmer till the lentils are thoroughly cooked : season with pepper and salt and a little chopped parsley. Turn the lentils on a dish, and place the bacon on them, and serve. Haricot beans will do as well as lentils, Precautions—The bacon or pork should not be old or coarse; and add just sufficient water to cover. TRIPE AND ONIONS. Ingredients, Tripe. Onions. Milk. Tripe is usually purchased ready boiled, it should be thick, white, and fresh; but it still requires cook- ing. Cut it into pieces about three inches by two inches, trim off the fat, wash it well in cold water and dry it on acleancloth. It may be whitened like veal, chicken, or turbot, by rubbing over with lemon-juice. First blanch the tripe for five or ten minutes in water, then take some new milk, put it into a stewpan, and add G BO oa Buckmaster’s Cookery. ome the tripe. Simmer very gently for two or three hours, stir frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent the tripe sticking or burning at the bottom of the sauce- pan. Boil six or eight onions, and, when done, chop them up, add to the tripe, and season with pepper and salt and a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar. Two dessert spoonfuls of flour may be stirred into the milk to thicken it, a quarter of an hour before serving. Tripe may be boiled in plain water, and served with onion sauce and mustard, or it may be boiled in veal stock with fresh beef bones, or baked in milk and served with onion sauce, or, after it is boiled, it may be dipped in batter, and fried for five minutes in butter with finely minced eschalots to a golden-brown colour. Precautions.—It is necessary that the tripe should be fresh and slowly simmered, with frequent attention. STEWED KIDNEYS. Lneredients. Kidneys Thyme Mushrooms, Lemon. Parsley. Butter. Stock. Skin half a dozen kidneys, and remove all the fat. Cut them across into slices the thickness of a penny. Mince a small eschalot, two mushrooms, anda little thyme finely, and use double the quantity of minced parsley. Sprinkle the sliced kidneys with the mixture and a little salt and pepper, with just the smallest sprinkle of cayenne. Melt two ounces of butter in a clean stewpan, and fry the kidneys to a brown colour, first on one side then the other. Thicken with a Beef ala Mode. 83 little flour, and finish with a gill or half a pint of hot stock or gravy, and a squeeze of lemon. Let it come to the boil, skim if necessary, and serve with sippets of fried bread. Precautions—The kidneys are not to be opened but cut into slices across, and be careful not to fry them too much before adding the flour and stock. STEWED CHEESE. Ingredients, Cheese. Eggs. Ale or chablis, Cut into thin slices half a pound of good Gloucester or Cheddar cheese. Take a clean quart stewpan and put in the cheese with a little old ale or chablis, and stir over the fire till it is melted, beat up the yolks only of two eggs and a small teaspoonful of dry mustard and a very little cayenne ; stir for two minutes over the fire, and serve very hot with toasted or fried sippets of bread. The top may be browned with a hot iron or salamander, or in front of a brisk fire. Sometimes the cheese is spread over toast and served. Precautions.—Do not let it burn, and if the cheese is not very rich add a little butter or salad oil; serve hot; and be careful with the cayenne. BEEF A LA MODE. Ingredients. Flank of beef. Calf’s feet. Stock. Bacon. Bouquet garni. Carrots. Onion. Garlic. This is a very popular dish, and, if nicely prepared, is one which never fails to give satisfaction. Take five pounds of thick flank of beef, and two G2 84 Buckmaster’s Cookery. slices of fat bacon half an inch in thickness. Remove the rind, and cut the bacon into strips of half an inch ;_ this will give you pieces half an inch in section; sprinkle the strips of bacon with pepper; lard the beef in the direction of its grain, and tie it up. Place it in a stewpan, with three pints of stock, the rind of bacon, and two calf’s feet, all previously blanched, and the feet boned. Proceed exactly as for the pot au feu, add a tea- spoonful of salt, let it come gradually to the boil, and skim ; then add four small carrots, one onion with three cloves stuck in it, a bouquet garni with a clove of garlic, and a little pepper. Close the stewpan tightly, and simmer slowly for four hours. When the beef is done take it out, with the calf’s feet and carrots, and put aside to keep hot. Remove all the fat, and strain the liquor through a pointed strainer into another stewpan, reduce it over a brisk fire for half an hour. Remove the string, place the beef on a dish, and garnish with carrots and calf’s feet. Pour over the reduced liquor, and serve. If required cold, put it into a basin, or earthenware mould, with the calf’s feet, vegetables, and liquor, which will gelatinize into a solid mass. When cold it can be turned on to a dish. ; ‘ Precautions.—The gravy should be thick and gela- tinous, and cooking very slowly is necessary. a“ LECTURE VI. Blood is the life and strength of all flesh. When thou hast eaten and art full, then thou shalt bless the Lord thy God. ON THE FUNCTION OF FOOD,—FEEDING CHILDREN.— THE LIVING BODY CONSIDERED AS A MACHINE. THE body is repaired and maintained from day to day by food, and by food we mean that kind of aliment, no matter by what name it may be called, which, by digestion, is converted into healthy blood, and capable of producing the most perfect physical power. In adult life, where the waste and gain are equal, the body remains at the same weight,—and this is the condition of health. In childhood and youth the supply must be in excess of the waste, because you have to build up the future man, and the body daily increases in weight. This is a period of the greatest importance as regards proper food. The growth of the whole body is the growth of its several parts, and from the food the materials are fur- nished out of which each part is formed. The body must be daily supplied with such substances as may be changed into tissue like that which it has to repair, because the stomach has no power to create anything or to change one kind of food into another kind, -In old age the waste increases on the supply, and the 86 Buckmaster’s Cookery. body slowly falls into decay. ‘The particles of the tissues change more rapidly in youth, and this pro- bably explains why young meat is more tender than old, and why any excess in youth is more easily cast off. The principal daily requirements of the body are the repair of tissue and the maintenance of temperature. Every vital action produces heat, and these actions must continue throughout life. Where the food is insufficient, and where there has been no storing of fat or nitrogen, the body falls into weakness and disease, and this is the natural tendency of all underfed or improperly-fed people; and with persons imperfectly nourished there is generally a low state of morality. Half the applications for hospitals and dispensaries come from persons who want food, and one cannot fail to be struck with the pale at- tenuated appearance of labourers who are undersized, twisted, and doubled up, and worn out before persons well fed and in comfortable circumstances begin to feel the influence of years. In all our large towns the same thing is observable. The declining physical power of the labouring poor is a matter of regret, and as a natural result opium-eating, smoking, and drink- ing are, in many localities, on the increase. Pure air, physical exercise, temperance, and a sufficiency of plain wholesome food are the conditions of health and happiness laid down by a higher authority than a parish vestry. The best offering you.can make the poor is to instruct them in the art of cooking, and teach them what constitutes food : and the most fitting memorial of God’s goodness is the provident and careful use of the blessings which. He has provided. The Function of Food. 87 It is very important that every poor woman should know how to spend her money on what is really worth the money, and to make what she purchases go as far as possible by good cooking. I want them to know that from vegetables alone a wholesome, economic, and nourishing diet may often be prepared. Why are Haricot beans, peas, lentils, oatmeal, macaroni, Indian meal, and rice, not more used? It is because people are ignorant of the value of these foods, and the art of making them savoury by cooking has yet to be learnt. As a rule, children, not only of the poorer classes, but of the middle classes, are often underfed, and many of their ailments arise from a debility of con- stitution, brought about by under or improper feeding ; and to give strength, quinine, cod-liver oil, port wine, and other stimulants are given instead of food. The diet of children should be a breakfast, with cocoa, milk, macaroni, porridge, or eggs; a dinner of meat, vegetables, and pudding; a substantial supper, like the breakfast, with cocoa or milk. This is the dietary of health, a diet capable, with pure air and exercise, of making a strong body and a strong mind, and a diet which will often improve weakly children and protect them against many diseases. ‘There is no period of life when more food is required than in childhood and youth. The hard-working labourer does not exhaust a greater quantity of nutritious food than a strong, healthy, growing boy of twelve or four- teen years of age. If it be admitted that from the food the body is continually built up and kept in health, how can it be expected if the food be insufficient, or, from its nature, 88 Buckmaster’s C vokery. —_ incapable of making healthy blood, that we can have anything but a weak race of men and women always complaining of ill-health. The stomach has often to work and waste its power on a mass of useless material. Masters of schools and parents should not measure. the appetites of children by their own wants. A morbid condition of the skin, ringworm, and debility of constitution in children are often traceable to imperfect nourishment. Where there is an insufficiency of food, or, what is the same thing, improper food, the vital functions go on and the body lives on itself; and this explains in some degree the frequent occurrence of consumption in rapidly growing and ill-fed youths. The intellectual culture and progress of a boy depend very much on physical power. In looking over the advertisements of boarding schools it is a matter of regret that a substantial diet is not sufficiently recog- nised. Ido not undervalue the importance of light, cleanliness, physical exercise, temperance, and pure air and good water ; but all these are unavailing with- out abundance of wholesome well-cooked food. As this question is very important, let us now consider it a little more in detail. Waste.—All substances when in action, or in con- tact with moving bodies, lose a portion of their material, and undergo a process of wear or waste. The mountain-tops are gradually lowered; the hardest rock is slowly reduced ; our ships, our houses, our machinery, our tools, our clothes, and all imple- ments of domestic use, gradually yield to the destruc- tive agency of this process of wear and waste. A carpenter’s plane, and even iron tools, are frequently - Ne ee ee ee The Function of Food. 89 ee worn into holes by the continued friction of the thumb and fingers. Soft solids, especially those containing liquids, waste more readily than hard ones. The living body is chiefly made up of soft solids and liquids ; it is always in a state of greater or less mechanical activity, and is the seat of continuous and varied chemical action. When powerful mechanical, chemical, and vital activities are combined, this pro- cess of waste is greatly increased, and it is supposed that the entire substance of the body is changed in the course of two or three years ; and it has been further calculated that a quantity of material equal to the entire weight of the body is carried away every forty days, so that the greater part of our body is renewed in that time. Starvation proves Waste.—If food be entirely with- held from an adult he gradually loses weight, becoming thinner, lighter, and feebler, until he has lost about forty per cent., or two-fifths of his entire weight, when death usually takes place. Death generally occurs in from ten to twenty days, and is very rarely delayed beyond fourteen days. In one or two cases, however, it has not occurred till the twenty-third day after deprivation from food. If an average adult human being be insufficiently fed, he will lose bulk and weight, but in this instance much more slowly than when the deprivation from food is entire. When the bodily loss has amounted to about forty per cent., which is about the limit consistent with life, death takes place, and the body becomes subject to the ordinary processes of decay. Late of Waste,—Various attempts have been made 90 Buckmaster’s Cookery. to.ascertain the rate of waste in the human body by ~ calculations founded on the amount of the daily egeséa, or substances thrown out of the body. The daily egesta consist chiefly of carbonic acid gas, about two pounds ; water, about six pounds; urea, about 480 grains; salts, 485 grains; in addition to the feeces, which consist chiefly of the undigested residue ot badly-cooked food. These egesta are partly derived from the cinta: gration and oxidation or combustion of the waste tissues, and partly from the oxidation of the food. It has been calculated that about one and a half pound of the carbonic acid gas, about three-fifths of a pound of the water, and about 240 grains of the urea are derived from the disintegration and combustion of the tissues of the body itself, more especially of the muscular and fatty tissues, the rest being derived from the food, including drink, daily ingested. The following table, from Brinton, indicates more elaborately the estimated amount of daily bodily waste according to the researches of Valentine and others, The typical man, on whom the calculations are sup- posed to be based, represents a healthy male, thirty- five years old, five feet six inches in height, and ten stones in weight. It must, however, be understood that the quantities given are simply approximative, and must vary with constitution, temperature, mental and bodily activity, state of health, and the general condition of the atmosphere :— ~ The Function of Food. gt TABLE OF DAILY BODILY WASTE. gr. Carbonic acid ‘ : ‘ . 14,000 Water (8, 400 of which are for she by coribustion) 42,000 Urea (including carbonate of ammonia, 20 grs.?) 480 Other organic constituents of the urine: namely, uric acid (8), kreatinin (7), kreatine (43), lactic and hippuric acids (indeterminate), together about . : - é . : sues 20 by the skin . 80 Salts eePreces v0 SO. ‘ : : 830 pe Ene.) 700 Total ‘ : ; Ay pe es. The carbonic acid and water of the 57,330 grains of daily matter egested are partially made up of the 14,570 grains of oxygen daily absorbed by the lungs and skin in the process of respiration. If we deduct from the 57,330 grains of egesta the 14,570 grains of absorbed oxygen, the remainder, 42,760 grains (about six pounds), will show the quantity of food daily required to support the system. Annual Change of Bodily Substance.-—During the course of one year the body consumes about twenty times its own weight of food and oxygen. It receives about 800 pounds of solid food, about 1,500 lbs. of liquids, and about 800 lbs. of oxygen, which is princi- pally absorbed through the lungs in the process of breathing. ‘The total weight of substances consumed by the body during one year, therefore, amounts to upwards of 3,000 pounds, or about a ton and a half. The living organism wastes because of the mechanical, chemical, and vital actions to which it is subject. The mechanical actions are produced through the 92 Buckmaster’s Cookery. es 7 agency of the voluntary and involuntary muscles, the bones, and the ligaments. Every time we move our arm, or wink our eye, a portion of the muscle is destroyed, and requires to be repaired or restored by the process of nutrition. All mental action is per- formed through the agency of the brain and nervous system, and every time we think, or see an object, or hear a sound, a portion of the brain and nerve of sight or of hearing is destroyed, and ceases to exist as brain or nerve. No animal can continue to exist if its body falls below a certain temperature. 166 Buckmaster’s Cookery. basin with them, with sugar according to taste ; add one small teaspoonful of finely minced lemon-peel, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and cover with crust ; close the edges well together, flour the cloth, and tie it securely over the pudding, and put it into plenty of boiling water. Let it boil from one and a half to — two and a half hours, according to the size, then turn it out of the basin and send to table quickly. Apple pudding does not suffer by being boiled an extra hour, if care be taken to keep it well covered with the water all the time. Precautions.—The water must be kept constantly boiling, and if more is added let it be boiling water. BAKED BATTER PUDDING. Ingredients. Eggs. Milk. Flour. Take six ounces of fine flour, three eggs, and a pinch of salt; add by degrees as much milk as will when well beaten make it the consistence of thick cream ; pour into a pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour ; or it may be boiled in a basin, or tied up in a cloth, It will require two hours’ boiling. Precautions—The milk should be added gradually. YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Ingredients. Eggs. Flour. Milk. a Use for every egg as much flour as a tablespoon will carry, and a small pinch of salt. Whisk the eggs well, strain and mix them gradually with the flour, then pour in by degrees as much new milk as will Puddings. 167 reduce the batter to the consistence of rather thin cream. The tin or pan which is to receive the pudding ~ must have been placed for some time previously undera joint which has been put down to roast ; one of beef is usually preferred. Beat the batter briskly and lightly the instant before it is poured into the pan, watch it carefully that it may not burn, and let the edges have an equal share of the fire. When the pudding is quite firm in every part and well coloured on the surface, turn it to brown on the under side. This is best accom- plished by first dividing it into quarters. In Yorkshire it is made much thinner than in the South, roasted generally before an enormous fire, and of turned at all: currants are sometimes added to it. This pudding should be quite an inch thick when it is browned on both sides, but only half the thickness when roasted in the Yorkshire manner. Precautions. —Be careful in mixing the batter, which should be rather more liquid than for a boiled pudding. STEAK PUDDING. Ingredients. Rump or beef steak. Oysters. Take a pound of flour and half a pound of beef suet very finely chopped, and mix together ; make a hole in the middle, into which put a teaspoonful of salt and enough water to form a stiffish paste; mix it well together, using a little more flour to dry it and prevent its sticking ; then lightly butter the interior of a round-bottomed pudding basin, roll out two-thirds of the paste to half an inch in thickness, with which line the basin; have ready cut into slices, about the 168 Buckmaster's Cookery. size of the palm of the hand and a quarter of an inch in thickness, two pounds of a rump or beefsteak with a little of the fat included; lay the pieces upon a dish, season with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one of black pepper, sprinkle a little flour over, move them about a little until each piece is well covered with flour and seasoning; then lay them within the ~ paste, also putting in whatever seasoning may remain upon the dish; a dozen oysters, blanched and with beards removed, is an excellent addition; pour a gill of water over, moisten the edges of the paste, then roll out the remainder of the paste to form a lid, which place over, pressing it down with the thumb; tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put it into a saucepan containing about a gallon of boiling water, and keep continually boiling for nearly two hours, adding a little more boiling water occasionally to keep up the quantity; then take it up, untie the cloth, run a sharp pointed skewer into the pudding, and if the meat feels tender it is done (if not it will require more boiling); turn it over upon your dish, lift the basin carefully from it, and serve. Precautions.—The steak must be tender, or made so with a kreatone (see page 76), the pudding well boiled, and the basin not too full. PIGEON PIE. Lneredients. Pigeons. Eges, Steak. Puff paste. Mushrooms, Stock. Eschalot. Parsley. Prepare three or four house pigeons and take half a pound of tender beefsteak, cut into convenient pieces, ee Pres. 169 lightly fry the steak first, and then the pigeons, in a clean stewpan with a little butter, season with chopped mushrooms, one eschalot, a little parsley, and pepper and salt. Place the steak at the bottom of the dish, upon this place the halves of the pigeons, rinse out the stewpan in which the things have been fried with half a pint of stock or water, and strain into the dish ; add the yolks only of five hard-boiled eggs, cover with a puff paste, and bake for an hour and a quarter in a moderate oven. Precautions.—The pigeons must be young and the steak tender, and do not fry too long in the butter. GIBLET PIE. s Ingredients. Giblets. Bay-leaf. Butter. Paste. Onion. Steak. Clean and blanch the’ giblets (except the liver), and put them, with the wings, feet, head, and neck, in boiling water ; and remove the skin from the feet and beak. Put intoastewpana piece of butter the size of a walnut, one onion cut in slices, a bay-leaf, a little salt, pepper, and sugar: place them on the fire until the onion is brown ; put in the giblets with the head cut in two, let them remain on the fire for about three minutes, stirring them round; then add nearly a quart of boiling water, and let them stew gently for two hours; remove from the fire and let them get cold. ‘Take a pie-dish and place a piece of steak on the bottom, then place over that the giblets with the liver, and steak again over them ; add the liquor the giblets were stewed in, season and cover with good paste. 170 Buckmaster’s Cookery. Precautions.—The giblets must be fresh and well stewed. SQUAB PIE. Ingredients. Mutton cutlets, Onions. Apples. Trim part of the fat off some mutton cutlets, and . season them with pepper and salt, place them in a pie-dish, and cover with a layer of sliced apples sprinkled with sugar and chopped onions, previously blanched; if the pie is large, arrange another layer of cutlets, and again cover with onions and apples, then cover with a good suet crust and bake. When done, pour out all the gravy at the side, remove the fat, and add a spoonful of mushroom-ketchup to the liquor, | and return it to the pie. Precautions. —The fat must be wel! removed from the gravy. ° | j ‘RUMPSTEAK PIE. Ingredients. Rump-steak. Eschalots. Ketchup. Stock. Oysters. Paste. Take three pounds of tender rump steak, cut it into pieces half the size of your hand, trim off all the skin, the sinews, and every part which cannot be eaten, and beat the steak with a chopper or a kreatone. Chop very finely half-a-dozen eschalots, and mix them with half an ounce of pepper and salt, strew some of the mixture at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of steak, then some more of the mixture, and so on till the dish is full; add half a gill of mushroom-ketchup and the same quantity of rich stock; cover-it witha 4 = a Pres. 171 good paste, and bake it two hours. Large oysters, blanched, bearded, and laid alternately with the steak, is a great improvement, and the liquor in which they were blanched, when reduced, may be used instead of the ketchup or stock. Precautions.—The steak must be tender or made so by beating. VEAL AND HAM PIE (1.) Ingredients. Veal. Boiled ham. Bacon. Spices. Sweet: herbs. Take a pound of boiled ham and three pounds of lean veal, or veal cutlets, and put aside three-quarters of a pound of the veal. This will leave two pounds and a quarter, which should be larded with fat bacon ; remove all the skin and gristle and put with the smaller quantity of veal. PREPARE A FORCEMEAT. Remove the rind, gristle) bone, and brown parts from three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon, take the three-quarters of a. pound of veal previously set aside, with any trimmings, mince them very finely, and add a good dessert-spoonful of spiced salt (see page 27). Work all these well together in a mortar till it is of a rather stiff paste, and put it aside in a basin. Make a short paste and line the inside of a plain oval pie mould. Now arrange a layer of the force- meat on the paste at the bottom of the mould; use about one-fourth, Then a layer of rashers of ag . “172 Buckmaster’s Cookery. ham; then another layer of forcemeat ; then the veal, cut into convenient pieces. Sprinkle over with spiced salt. Now another layer of force- meat, then rashers of ham, then forcemeat. Cover the surface with three rashers of fat bacon and a bay- leaf; cover with paste, and bake for two hours in a moderate oven, covering the top with a piece of buttered paper. A fine plated skewer thrust in will enable you to judge when the meat is sufficiently baked. If the spice is to hand this pie is no more trouble, nor does it take more time, than an ordinary veal and ham pie, and is much better. Precautions.—The chief point to be borne in mind is not to have it too highly seasoned, and the meat should be free from gristle and skin. VEAL AND HAM PIE (2.) Ingredients, Veal. Ham. Stock. Mushrooms. Parsley. Ketchup. Eggs. Lemon. Take about two pounds of lean veal, from the breast or fillet, free it from fat, skin, bone, and gristle, and three-quarters of a pound of ham or bacon, in thin rashers free from rind and coarse parts. Cut these in convenient pieces. Prepare a short or puff paste and line the dish. Mince finely half-a-dozen button mush- rooms, a sprig of parsley, and sweat these in a clean stewpan with an ounce of butter and a little flour; add a gill or half a pint of good stock, or in default water, and a dessert-spoonful of ketchup. Bring these slowly to the boil and stand it aside. Prepare three Pres, 173. hard boiled eggs and cut them into dice; if pre- ferred use only the yolks. Now arrange the meat, a layer of veal, then ham, and so on, finishing with ham mingled with the egg (some use a little grated lemon- peel, others add oysters, sweetbreads, mushrooms, &c.). The pie may be made rich and savoury in a dozen ways, according to taste. Finish the pie and strain through the hole at the top all but a wine- glassful of the gravy ; cover the hole with an orna- mental piece of paste and bake. When ready remove the ornament at the top, make the remainder of the gravy very hot and strain it in, cover the hole again and serve. Precautions.—In meat pies it is essential the meat should be tender and free from skin and gristle. RISSOLES. Ingredients, Minced meat. Puff paste. Hot fat. Take the trimmings of puff paste; roll the paste out to the thickness of a penny piece; place small balls of meat (the same as those prepared for cro- quets, page 107), and put them at distances of two inches from each other; moisten the paste round these balls of meat with a brush dipped in water ; fold the flap of the front part of the paste over the balls, just as you would fold a sheet of paper lengthwise ; press all round them with the edge of the thumb ; cut them out with a fluted round tin cutter, and place them on a dish sprinkled with flour; having cut out a sufficient number, fry them in hot fat, at 385°, and gerve up with fried parsley on a napkin, 4174 Buckmasters Cookery. The difference between a croquet and a rissole is this,—the rissole is always fried in a paste, the conte in egg and bread-crumb. Precautions. —Take care to have a good paste and the rissoles neatly made. OPEN JAM TARTS. Ingredients. Puff, or Short paste. Jam. All fruit pies and tarts require a light, good crust. Take an open tart mould and line it with paste about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Make a few holes in the bottom ; this is to prevent the paste puffing up in the centre. Bake in a brisk oven ten or fifteen minutes, Let the paste cool, then add the preserve, but if the tart is to be served hot, warm the jam in a clean stewpan and add at once. The tart may be decorated with leaves, flowers, or stars, cut out of the paste and baked. It is not desirable to bake the jam in the tart; it spoils its flavour and appearance. Precautions.—A good oven is essential for all fruit pastry. APPLE PIE. Ingredients. Apples. Puff paste. Prepare the apples, by peeling and removing the cores, and cutting them into eight pieces, moisten the edge of the dish with a little butter and lay a slip of puff paste round it. Arrange a layer of apples at the bottom, then sugar, and flavour with cinnamon, cloves, — lemon-peel, orange-peel, candied citron, or whatever Cakes. 175 flavouring you prefer; a little quince is a great improve- ment. Keep adding the apples till the dish is full and well heaped up in the centre. Cover with puff paste and decorate the top. Cream is a good addition to apple pie. Precautions.—-In baking pies and tarts a light crust is essential. PLAIN CAKE. Ingredients. Paste. Eggs. ‘Dripping. Currants. Take half a quartern of common paste, four eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter (or dripping), a quarter of a pound of currants, carefully washed and dried, and a little salt. Break the paste lightly in a basin, put in the sugar, the butter, and two eggs, thoroughly mix the whole toge- ther, then add the other two eggs, one at a time, work the mixture well, and, lastly, work in the currants. Fill a plain mould, previously buttered, with the mix- ture, and set itin a warm place to rise. As soon as it has risen put it into a moderate oven to bake to a brown colour. Precautions.—The chief thing is to carefully mix the ingredients. SEED CAKE. Ingredients. Sugar. Ginger. Yeast. Nutmeg. Milk, Carraway seeds. Allspice. e Mix a half pound of pounded loaf-sugar with two pounds of flour in a large bowl or pan. Make a hole in the centre, and pour into it a half pint of lukewarm milk and two spoonfuls of yeast. Draw a little of the 176 Buckmaster's Cookery. surrounding flour into this, and throwing a cloth over the vessel, set it ina warm place for an hour or two. ‘Then add half a pound of butter just liquefied, an ounce of carraway seeds, a little allspice, ginger, and very little nutmeg, and milk sufficient to make the whole of a proper stiffness. Mix it thoroughly ; butter a plain mould, and pour in the mixture ; let it stand half an hour at the mouth of the oven torise, and then bake it. Precautions.—Be careful to prove your yeast before using it. GINGER CAKES. Ingredients. Flour. Fresh butter. Pounded loaf-sugar, Ground Jamaica ginger. | Eggs. Take one pound of flour, twelve ounces of fresh butter, twelve ounces of pounded loaf-sugar, two ounces of best ground ginger, add the yolks of eight eggs. Work the whole of these together on a paste board or slab, and after having gathered the paste up into a compact mass, separate it by cutting with a round patty cutter, and then place them on a slightly buttered baking sheet. Bake them to a light brown colour in a moderate oven. Precautions—The ingredients must be thoroughly well mixed. SNOW EGGS. Ingredients. Milk. Eggs. Vanilla. Pounded loaf-sugar, Hundreds and thousands, Take half-a-dozen eggs, separate the yolks, and put them aside; whisk the whites to a stiff froth, with vaiaisaitaies! Custards. 177 a tablespoonful of powdered lump-sugar. Take one quart of milk, sweeten it to taste, and bring it nearly to the boil; then take two dessert spoons and shape the white of the egg and drop them one by one on to the milk, which should now be on the point of boiling without boiling; when the eggs are set on one side, turn them over; a few seconds will be sufficient; take them out and drain on a sieve. When all the egg froth is used, strain the milk into a stewpan; let it get cold, and then mix gradually with it the yolks of the half dozen eggs with a little vanilla or lemon, or any flavouring you like. Put the stewpan containing the milk and the yolks of eggs into a saucepan of hot water, rising about two-thirds the height of the inner vessel, and keep stirring over the fire till the custard thickens. This is in fact a bain-marie, like a carpen- ter’s glue pot. Pile up the eggs on a dish, and as soon as you observe small lumps on the side of the stewpan containing the custard, remove it instantly from the fire, and pour it round the eggs. Sprinkle the surface with ‘‘ hundreds and thousands.” Precautions.—Fresh eggs and new milk are essential, and the custard must on no account be allowed to boil. CUSTARDS. * Ingredients. Eggs, Loaf-sugar. Milk. Bay-leaf. Lemon. A pint of new milk, three ounces of loaf-sugar, and the thin rind of half a lemon are to be boiled inaclean enamelled saucepan for three minutes ; take it off the N 178 Buckmaster's Cookery. ed whites of four of them, add the milk to the eggs, stirring quickly as it is poured in. Strain the custard into the saucepan, and stir with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken; then strain through a fine sieve into a basin. Precautions.—The custard should not be flavoured too strongly, and never cease stirring. Watch for the small lumps on the side of the pan (this is the com-— mencement of boiling), and remove immediately. ORANGE CUSTARD PUDDING. Ingredients, Eggs. Loaf-sugar. Orange-peel. Milk. Beat up, as for an omelette (page 186), four eggs, with four ounces of powdered loaf-sugar, and one pint and a half of milk previously boiled and allowed to cool, then add the grated peel of one orange, beat all up together, strain into a shallow pie-dish, and put into a moderate oven to bake. The safer way is to put the dish containing the custard into a tin dish, with boiling water coming two-thirds of the way up the dish containing the custard, then put it into a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and if at the end of this time it is not sufficiently firm, let it remain till itis so. When cold, sprinkle over the pudding powdered loaf-sugar. Precautions.—-The materials should be well mixed, but not too much beaten; if the custard is baked without putting it into another dish with water, then the dish containing the custard should be shallow. fire for five minutes ; beat up eight eggs, leaving out the 2 Puddings. 179 LEMON CUSTARD PUDDING. Prepare in the same way, using lemon-peel instead of orange. BAIN-MARIE PUDDING. Ingredients. New milk. Pounded loaf-sugar. Eggs. Take a quart of new milk, and add six ounces of pounded loaf-sugar. Put the sweetened milk into a clean stewpan, and reduce to one pint. When re- duced, put aside one gill for the sauce. When the milk is nearly cold, mix gradually the yolks of five eggs and the whites of three. Strain into a mould, and steam it for half-an-hour in a stewpan with boiling water, taking care the water does not enter the mould. Take it out and let it stand for a few minutes before turning out. Put the gill of milk into a stewpan, add the juice of any delicate fruit, let it come to the boil, stir in a little cream, and pour over the pudding. Precautions.—The careful preparation of the sauce is most important. MARMALADE PUDDING. Lngredienis. Suet. Bread. Marmalade, Eggs. Sugar. Take four ounces of suet chopped finely, four ounces of grated bread crumbs, four ounces of moist sugar, four ounces of marmalade, mix these ingredients well together with three eggs, allow the mixture to stand foran hour. Butter an earthenware mould, put in the mixture, and lay a buttered paper on the top, tie it 180 Buckmaster’s Cookery. eee over with a cloth, and boil for two hours. When turned out, sprinkle it over with powdered loaf-sugar. Precautions.—Do not let the water come over the top of mould. LEMON PUDDING. Ingredients. Lemons. Sugar. Short paste. Take two fresh lemons and three ounces of moist sugar, grate the rind off the lemons into a basin with the sugar, squeeze all the juice out, and mix together. Line a shallow tin with short paste, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, then spread over it some of the mixture, then another layer of paste, then some more of the mixture, and a thin layer of paste to cover; bake in a quick oven, and serve hot. Precautions. nee very careful that the lemons are fresh, and have a clear good rind. BAKED RICE PUDDING. Ingredients. Rice. Eggs. Milk. Nutmeg. Sugar. Wash in two or three waters four heaped table- spoonfuls of rice, and boil it in a pint and a half of new milk for half-an-hour, stir in two tablespoonfuls of pounded loaf-sugar, and flavour with anything you like, let it get cold, then add two well-beaten eggs, butter a pie-dish, put in the pudding, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for half-an-hour. Preautions.—The pudding should be Babee quickly, So a a ee re Apple and Rice Meringue. 181 RICE SOUFFLE. Ingredients. Milk. Pounded loaf-sugar. Orange-flower water. Eggs. Rice. Boil in a quart of milk six tablespoonfuls of rice with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water and six ounces of pounded loaf-sugar. Take six fresh eggs and separate the yolks from the whites; stir in one yolk, then another, till they are all used, and three ounces of butter in parts of one ounce each; stir with a wooden spoon so as to thoroughly mix the ingre- dients, and continue stirring till the rice is tender and sufficiently thickened. Well whisk the whites of the eggs till they are very stiff; if these are insufficiently beaten the souffle will never rise. ‘Take the stewpan aside, and let the contents cool a little, then add the whites and mix them quickly with the rice. Have ready a warm tin or souffle-dish slightly buttered, pour in the souffle mixture, sprinkle with pounded loaf-sugar, and put it into a rather brisk oven for seven or ten minutes; a straw run through will indicate when it is sufficiently baked. Serve very hot with a napkin round the tin. Precautions.—A clean stewpan, the proper whisking of the -eggs, and a good oven, are all necessary to SUCCESS. APPLE AND RICE MERINGUE. Ingredients. Rice. Cloves. Cinnamon. Lemon. Eggs. Sugar, Milk, ~ Apples. Peel six apples, core them, cut them in pieces, and place them in a stewpan with half-a-pint of water, four ’ Sie 182 Buckmaster’s Cookery, ounces of loaf-sugar, a few cloves, and a little cinna- mon, and let them boil gently till they become quite soft, remove the apples, and let the syrup boil away till it is reduced to three tablespoonfuls, then strain it over the apples. Boil half a pound of rice, drain off the water, and add one pint of milk, four ounces of pounded loaf-sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon. When the rice has absorbed all the milk, let it get cold, then remove the lemon-rind and work into the rice the yolks of three or four eggs. Put the whites aside in a basin to whip up. ‘Then make a shallow wall of rice round the dish in which it is to be served, place the apples in the centre, and cover the whole with the whites of the eggs beaten up with a tablespoonful of powdered lump-sugar, into a stiff froth, neatly plaster over the whole surface; sprinkle powdered sugar over and bake about fifteen minutes till the surface is nicely browned. Gooseberries or other fruit may be substi- tuted for apples. frecautions.—Use the best rice, and spread the whites of the eggs neatly over the surface. APPLE CHARLOTTE. Ingredients. Apples. Bread. Sugar. Butter. Peel fifteen Ribston or Blenheim pippins, slice them, remove the cores, and put them for ten minutes into cold water, to which has been added the juice of half a lemon. Then put them in a clean stewpan over a moderate fire with half a pound of loaf-sugar and a little cinnamon ; cover the stewpan and occa- sionally shake it and stir the apples. When quite soft ye os Charlotte Russe. 183 and pulpy pass them through a tammy. Cut the crumb of some stale bread into slices of about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out a centre- piece to cover the bottom of a mould, then cut some heart-shaped, or other fancy forms, and dip each of them on one side in melted butter as they are wanted, beginning with the large piece, which place at the bottom of the mould, and arrange the heart-shaped pieces round it, overlapping one another, and with the points resting on the piece at the bottom. Cut the remainder of the slices of bread into strips one anda half inch wide, and of the height of the mould; dip them in butter, and stand them all round the mould, also overlapping one another like feather-edged boarding ; fill the centre with the cooked apples, and put the charlotte in the oven until the bread is well coloured. Turn the charlotte out of the mould on to a dish, glaze it over with some boiled apricot jam, and serve. Precautions.—Every part of the mould must be well covered with bread and butter or the charlotte will not turn out. CHARLOTTE RUSSE. Ingredients, Apples. Cinnamon. Butter. Red currant jelly. ; Finger biscuits. Peel and core twelve large pippins and cook them as just described for apple charlotte. Melt a little sweet butter, and well cover the inside of the mould, using a brush. Line the mould with finger biscuits, and fill it up with the apples. Make a hole in the centre ; ft 184 - Buckmaster’s Cookery. ~~ _— this is best done by standing a clean glass bottle in the mould, remove the bottle and fill up with red currant jelly or apricot jam. Cover with finger biscuits and put the mould into a good oven for five or seven minutes. Turn the charlotte on a dish and serve hot. : Precautions.—Be very particular to well cover the mould with butter and biscuits, so that none of the fruit comes into contact with the mould. GOOSEBERRY FOOL. . Ingredients. Sugar. Cream. Gooseberries. Put the picked fruit with half a pint of water into a stewpan with pounded loaf-sugar, and set it over a stove, or in boiling water, till the fruit will pulp, pass it through a hair sieve and mix the purée by degrees with cream, or with a plain custard. frecautions.—Green gooseberries are to be preferred. GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE. Ingredients, Gooseberries. Cream. Milk. Pounded loaf-sugar, Eggs. Scald a quart of green gooseberries and pass the pulp through a sieve, sweeten with pounded loaf- sugar, make a thick layer with the gooseberries at the bottom of a rather deep dish, or trifle dish. Mux half a pint of milk which has been scalded and allowed to cool with half a pint of cream and the yolks of two fresh eggs, stir well together, and put the mixture into a clean stewpan or saucepan, continue stirring, but do ae es SS ee ee ee oe ee wx Omelettes. 185 not allow it to boil; add sugar to taste, and set it aside to cool in a basin. When cold, lay this over the gooseberries with a spoon, and cover it with a very high whip of white of egg. Precautions.—lf the custard boils it is spoilt. Watch for the formation of small solid bodies on the sides of the stewpan and remove it instantly, and pour the contents into a basin. This is the commence- ment of curdling. THE PREPARATION OF OMELETTES. LECTURE DELIVERED BEFORE HER MAJESTY AT THE SCHOOL OF COOKERY. . May it please your Majesty :— The specimen of cooking which is now to be presented takes only five minutes, and is within the reach of almost the poorest of your Majesty’s subjects. The materials cost fourpence, and they furnish a savoury and nourishing dish. ‘The omelette is seldom properly cooked even in France, which gives it its name. It is never found in the homes of the poor in this country, and in the houses of the rich it is often very badly prepared. ‘There is no occasion for an omelette pan and spoon. The ordinary frying-pan and spoon found in every house will answer per- fectly well. And we endeavour to show in this school not only the best and the most economic methods of domestic cooking, but the various uses to which kitchen utensils may be fairly applied without injury. A PLAIN OMELETTE. We must be careful that the frying-pan is thoroughly 186 Buckmaster’s Cookery, an Se — clean, and free from moisture. Cleanliness brings with it habits of domestic order, which are among the first and best methods of. happiness in every household. © Place in the frying-pan about one ounce of sweet butter. We use gas stoves in our cooking, and duplicate all our operations, so that the public may have a better opportunity of seeing; but what we do at these gas stoves we can also do at an ordinary kitchen fireplace. Break three eggs separately to see that they are fresh, beat them up with a little chopped parsley and a pinch of pepper and salt. The eggs should not be beaten too much (about four seconds will be sufficient), or the white separates, and you produce a watery mixture, which destroys the flavour and appearance of the omelette. Now that the butter is melted and in a state of froth, pour into the frying-pan the omelette mixture, and stir till it begins to set or thicken; shake the pan occasionally, and when sufficiently firm, fold the omelette over neatly into an oval shape, strike the handle of the frying-pan so as to produce a gentle vibration, which keeps the omelette detached from the pan, and when the omelette is of a golden colour turn it quickly into a dish. To be able to prepare a plain omelette is to be able to prepare every kind of omelette. The chief thing to be borne in mind in cooking an omelette, is that the mixture does not adhere to the frying-pan. _ > A CHEESE OMELETTE. If you require a cheese omelette introduce, into the omelette mixture about a dessert-spoonful of grated eT * Omelettes. 187 Parmesan cheese, with a little pepper and salt, and sometimes a few grains of cayenne pepper; sprinkle the omelette when it is turned out with a little grated cheese. A SWEET OMELETTE. Beat up a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar with the eggs, and just before the omelette is ready, dis- tribute evenly over it alittle jam, and fold the omelette over it; turn it into a hot dish, and sprinkle it with pounded loaf-sugar. ps A BACON OMELETTE. A few pieces of previously cooked bacon cut into small dice, added just before folding the omelette, and so on ; for the principle is the same for all omelettes. sn In preparing an omelette, remember five things : (1) that you have a clean pan, (2) that the eggs are not too much beaten, (3) that the omelette is not too large (three or four eggs), (4) that it is quickly cooked, and (5) that it is eaten immediately. To make simple food wholesome and palatable by cooking was a duty imposed on man from the very earliest period of his civilization. An abundant supply of food, and the proper preparation of it by cooking, are matters intimately connected with the physical well-being and happiness of your Majesty’s subjects, and from along and close connection with the working classes, through their schools, clubs, and institutes, I may be permitted to say, that the interest which your Majesty has shown in this School of Popular Cookery Buckmaster’ Cookery, — will be very valuable and gratefully appreciated by all classes of your Majesty’s subjects. & OMELETTE SOUFFLE. Ingredients, Eggs. Cream. Pounded loaf-sugar. Jam. Take three eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, — 3 and turn the yolks into one basin and the whites into another. Add to the yolks a dessert-spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar and a tablespoonful of cream, stir these together with a wooden spoon. Whip the whites for four minutes into a stiffish froth, then add them to the yolks, and mix altogether same as for an omelette. Have ready in a state of froth about half an ounce of butter in a small clean frying-pan. Pour in the mix- ture, and proceed in precisely the same way as for a sweet omelette (see page 185). The only difference between a plain omelette and an omelette souffle is that cream is used, and the whites are whipped, and added to the mixture for a souffle. a Precautions.—Keep the mixture free from the pan while cooking. oe! bea ‘ is | PANCAKES. __ ‘os ad Cs ? Ingredients, % im Milk. Pounded loaf-sugar. Flour. Eggs. Lemon. —* Melt in the frying-pan a little butter, and wipe it out with a cloth. Beat up five eggs in a large basin with one ounce of pounded loaf-sugar and a little salt, add half a pound of flour, and- thoroughly mix them, stir in a quarter of a pound of butter melted to 4 \ ai Vegetables. 189 the consistency of cream, and five gills of milk. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan till it covers the pan and froths, now add sufficient batter to cover the pan, fry the pancake to a light brown on both sides, sprinkle it with pounded loaf-sugar, and serve hot with sliced lemon. Precautions.—Be careful to have good butter and attend to the frying. *, ¥ VEGETABLES. All vegetables intended for boiling should be well washed, but not soaked, in water; a little vinegar in the water will be more effectual in removing insects than salt. Green vegetables should have plenty of room, and be plunged into boiling water with a small teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar. The saucepan should be uncovered and the contents occasionally skimmed, and the vegetables should not remain in the water an instant after they are cooked. We do not attach sufficient importance to vege- tables ; they may be prepared in different ways, and eaten as separate dishes. In other countries they form quite a distinct part of the dinner. It is some- times said that plain boiled vegetables are best; but this would also apply to plain boiled meat hog fish. Carefully cooked vegetables are more wholesome and digestible. Very few vegetables can be eaten with safety without cooking, and if some of the following recipes are rather more expensive they may often economically replace meat, which is now the most costly thing on a table. i Se 190 Buckmaster s Cookery. - POTATOES, PLAIN BOILED. ae * Ingredients, Potatoes. To boil potatoes properly they should all be of the same sort, and as nearly as possible of the same size. Wash off the dirt, and scrub them very clean with a hard brush, but neither scoop nor apply a knife to them i in any way, even to clear the eyes. Rinse them well, and arrange them compactly in a saucepan so that they may not lie loose in the water, and that a small quantity may be sufficient to cover them. Pour the water in cold, and when it boils throw in one large tea- spoonful of salt to each quart of water, and simmer the potatoes until they are nearly done, but for the last two or three minutes let them boil rapidly. When they are tender quite through, which may be known by probing them with a fork, pour all the water from them imme- diately, lift the lid of the saucepan to allow the steam to escape, and place them by the side of the fire until the moisture has entirely evaporated ; then peel and send them to table as quickly as possible, either in a hot napkin or in a dish of which the cover is so placed that the steam may pass off. There should be no delay in serving after they are once taken from the fire. Irish families always prefer them served in their skins. Somekinds will be sufficiently boiled in twenty minutes ; others in not less than three-quarters of an hour. | Precautions.—Pour away the water as soon as the potatoes are cooked, and dry them, | * MASHED POTATOES. é , Ingredients. | Potatoes. Cream. Butter. Boil or steam the potatoes half-an-hour, turn them into a basin, and with a wooden spoon bruise them to flour ; to three pounds of potatoes add a teaspoonful of salt, three ounces of fresh butter, and a gill of cream or hot milk. Stand the basin in a saucepan of howl water, and beat the potatoes for five minutes, Serve on a very hot dish, either in a rough cone-shape or smoothed over with a knife. Preautions.—The potatoes should be well mixed with the butter and cream. POTATOES WITH MILK, 5 Ingredients, ‘ Potatoes. Milk. Cream, Have ready some boiled potatoes, and when nearly cold cut them into slices and cover them with a clean cloth, ‘Take a stewpan and melt three ounces of butter with two ounces of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, and add gradually a gill of warm milk ; season with pepper and salt and a little grated nutmeg. When the sauce comes to the boil put in the sliced potatoes, and let them gently boil for about fifteen minutes, then stand the stewpan aside. Mix the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream and pour into the stewpan, stirring till it becomes thick. Turn it on to a hot dish and serve. Preautions,—Take care to prepare the sauce care- fully. 192 Buckmaster’s Cookery. a POTATOES AND SPINACH, Ingredients. Potatoes. Spinach. Boil a pound of potatoes and mash them. Have ready the same quantity of boiled spinach, chop it up, and thoroughly mix with the potatoes; add salt, “pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and three ounces of sweet butter. Work the whole together, put it into a pie-dish and bake. When the top is of a nice brown colour, it is ready. Precautions.—The ingredients should be well mixed before baking. POTATOES AND BACON, Lngredients. Potatoes, Bacon. Bouquet garni. Take half a pound of bacon, scrape it, and cut it _into half-inch dice. Put the pieces into a stewpan with three ounces of sweet dripping or butter ; let the bacon brown lightly. Then add a tablespoonful of flour, and when thoroughly mixed add a pint of hot water, or, better, stock, and a bouquet garni, with a clove of garlic. Cover the stewpan and let the con- tents come to the boil. Wash and peel about a pound of good potatoes (the kidney variety is the best), slice them in pieces about a quarter of an inch in thick- ness. Cover the stewpan and let the potatoes boil till they are cooked. Take out the seasoning and serve. Precautions.—Good potatoes and cae sai og tion of the sauce is essential. iy Potato Chips. | 194 POTATO SOUFFLE, Lngredients, Potatoes. Eggs. Parmesan cheese. Gruyere cheese. Boil six large potatoes and mash them with three ounces of sweet butter, a little pepper and salt, and four ounces of grated cheese (half Parmesan and half Gruyere is the best mixture), add the yolks of four eg and the whites, previously whisked to a rather sae | paste. Mix these thoroughly and put into a pie-dish and bake. When the top is nicely browned in the oven it is ready. * Precautions.—The ingredients should be thoroughly mixed before baking and the whites well whisked before mixing. ‘ FRIED POTATO CHIPS. Ingredients. Potatoes. Hot fat. Peel six large potatoes, and cut them in slices each an eighth of an inch in thickness ; wash and dry them ina cloth. Melt your frying fat over a brisk fire, and when the temperature rises to 385° throw the potatoes in; stir with the skimmer occasionally to secure an even cooking ; eight or ten minutes’ frying will be suff- cient. Drain them on a wire sieve, sprinkle with salt, and serve. When potatoes are required very crisp, let them fry three or four minutes longer. Precautions.—Do not put in too many potato chips or the fat will fall too low for frying. A slight increase of temperature while the potatoes are frying is desirable. 0 194 Buckmaster’s Cookery. FRIED POTATOES AND ONIONS. Ingredients. Onions. Potatoes. Parsley. Lemon. Butter. The remains of cold potatoes may be used thus :— Put two ounces of butter and one of oil in a frying- pan, in which fry three sliced onions; put on the potatoes, cut in thin slices each about the thickness of half-a-crown, and toss them now and then until they have a nice yellow colour ; add a spoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and te juice ofa lemon. Shake the pan well that they may mix thoroughly together dish, and serve very hot. An excellent dish to serve with a chop, a steak, or a joint. Preautions.—A clean frying-pan and good oil are essential. POTATO CROQUETS. ingredients, Mashed potatoes. Egg. Parsley. Spice. Hot fat. Cold mashed potatoes may be used up as croquets. - Stir an egg or two into your potatoes, add a little spice, pepper and salt to taste, and some minced parsley ; mix well, and roll the mixture into balls, or the shape of corks ; cover with egg and bread-crumbs ; and fry to a nice prideh colour in hot fat, and ete with fried parsley. Precautions. —Careful frying of the croquets to a ” nice colour is essential. Cauliflower au Gratin. 195 CAULIFLOWERS. Ingredients. Cauliflowers. Pounded loaf-sugar. Wash the cauliflower thoroughly clean, and remove the coarse outer leaves, split the stalk into four by cutting it across, but not deep enough to separate the flower. Plunge it flower downwards into plenty of boiling water with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt; keep the saucepan-lid off, and skim; when it is cooked (which will be in about ten or fifteen minutes), ’ remove the cauliflower carefully with a slice, and drain on a sieve, | Precautions.—Plenty of boiling water and plenty of room are essential. CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN. Lngredients, Cauliflower. Cheese. Butter. Mustard. Boil the cauliflower ; divide it into pieces the size of a walnut, leaving out the stem and leaves. Grate two ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a tablespoonful of flour of mustard, a saltspoonful of white pepper, and half a grain of cayenne; dip each piece of cauliflower into the mixture, and place them flower upwards closely on a flat dish ; strew over the top the remainder of the cheese; melt two ounces of butter and pour over it; bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour, and serve immediately. Precautions.—Be careful the butter is sweet, and not of too brown a colour. OZ 196 § Buckmaster’s Cookery. SPINACH. Ingredients. Spinach. Butter. Pick and wash perfectly clean two or three pounds of spinach; put it into a saucepan with a very little water, and let it boil till quite done. Turn the spinach on to a colander to drain, squeeze the water out, be- tween two plates, and pass the spinach through a sieve. Put two ounces of butter into another saucepan, fry the butter a light brown, add a small teaspoonful of flour, mix well, and then put in’ the spinach with pepper and salt to taste, and a little milk. Precautions.—The spinach should only remain in the second saucepan long enough to thoroughly mix with the butter and seasoning. CABBAGE. Lngredients, Cabbage. Wash and trim off the outer leaves of a cabbage, divide it, or split the stalk into four, throw the cabbage-stalk upwards into boiling water, with a tea- spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar or salt. When cooked well, drain it on a colander and serve, if preferred, with a white sauce. Precautions.—The cabbage should be young and have plenty of room in the saucepan. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Lngredients, Brussels sprouts. Wash and remove the loose leaves from a quart of sprouts, then throw them into plenty of boiling water, Asparagus. 197 with salt and pepper. Ina quarter of an hour drain them onacolander. Melt three ounces of butter in a stewpan with a little salt and pepper, add the brussels sprouts, shake them for two or three minutes in ite stewpan and serve. ) ” Precautions.—Be careful to keep them from burning in the butter. ASPARAGUS. Ingredients. Asparagus. Scrape the sticks of the asparagus, wash them, and cut them into equal lengths.) Divide the sticks into bundles of ten or twelve, tie them together, and put them into plenty of salted boiling water and a table- spoonful of vinegar. Take care not to over-cook— about fifteen or twenty minutes will be sufficient—or the heads, which are the most delicate part, will break off in the saucepan. When sufficiently cooked, remove them carefully and serve on buttered toast. Precautions. —Care is necessary to prevent the heads breaking off. CARROTS. Ingredients. Carrots. Eschalots. Chives. Scrape clean and wipe, but not wash, fifteen or twenty small young carrots. Put them in a stewpan with three ounces of butter, cover the stewpan, and from time to time give it a shake. After fifteen minutes add a little pepper and salt, and some finely minced parsley and chives, or eschalots. Put on the 198 Buckmaster's Cookery. lid, occasionally shake till the carrots are tender. Old carrots should be previously well blanched, and cut into slices and finished cooking in the sauce. Precautions.—lf the carrots are not young they should be nearly cooked before adding to the sauce. CARROTS WITH .HAM OR BACON. Ingredients. Carrots. Ham. Bouquet garni. Melt in a stewpan three ounces of butter, and mix with it one ounce of flour; stir for five minutes. Now add a gill of boiling stock or water, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add half a pound of ham or bacon, cut into half-inch dice, with a little pepper (and, perhaps, a little salt, but this will depend on the saltness of the ham or bacon), a bouquet garni, with a clove of garlic, or a large onion instead of the garlic. Cut into slices, about the thickness of a penny, six large carrots and put them in the stewpan. Let the contents boil till the carrots are tender. Remove the onion and bouquet garni and serve. Precautions.—Constant attention is necessary after adding the sliced carrots. VEGETABLE MARROW WITH ONIONS. Lngredients. Vegetable marrow. Onions. Peel and remove the seeds of a vegetable marrow, cut it into slices and throw it into boiling water with a little salt. When sufficiently cooked drain on a colander. Melt in a stewpan two ounces of butter Colcannon. 199 with two shredded onions, and when tender add the slices of vegetable marrow. Season with pepper and salt. Occasionally shake the stewpan, and in seven minutes it is ready. Precautions.—The onions must not be allowed to brown in the butter. COLCANNON. Ingredients. » Potatoes. Green vegetables. Boil potatoes and greens or spinach separately ; mash the potatoes; squeeze the greens dry; chop them quite fine, and mix altogether in a basin, with a little butter, pepper, and salt; put the whole into a mould, previously well buttered with a brush. Let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes and then turn out. Precautions.—Let the vegetables be firm and the mould properly buttered, or the colcannon will break on turning out. | GREEN PEAS. Lngredients. Green peas Butter. Mint. Lettuce. Onion, Sugar. Tie into a small bunch a small head of lettuce and one or two onions, and throw them with the peas into plenty of boiling water, with some salt, and a little pounded loaf-sugar. When cooked strain off all the water and remove the bunch. Mix with about an ounce of butter a small quantity of finely minced mint, pre- viously blanched, put this in a dish and turn the peas over it. 200 Buckmaster’s Cookery’. frecautions.—The peas should be young, quickly boiled, and not shelled before they are wanted. P FRENCH BEANS, PLAIN. , < Ingredients. French beans. Sugar. Take one pound of French beans, remove the strings and stalks, and, if they are old, split them. Turn them into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water and a small teaspoonful of sugar and salt, boil them till they are tender, which can be ascertained by trying them. When this vegetable is too old, no oomde will ever make it good. Precautions.—In boiling green vegetables the colour can only be retained by quick boiling in plenty of water in an uncovered saucepan. eet URE, XII. Pape 3 959 4 ‘* Who giveth Food to all flesh.” ue “‘ Mugh food is in the tillage of the poor, but there is that destroyed for want of judgment.” ROASTING, BROILING, BOILING, STEAMING, BAKING, BRAISING, THE first thing is to select your meat. Few persons go to market, and families have often to take whatever the butcher thinks proper to send. Beef constitutes by far the larger proportion of animal food consumed by man ; and in selecting a piece of beef or mutton, see that the grain is not too coarse, that the meat is of a bright red colour, soft to the touch, and that the fat is nicely intermixed with the lean. Mutton and beef will be more tender if the weather will admit of their being hung, knuckle downwards, some days before cooking; but two days in summer are often equal to a week in winter. The flavour and the quality of meat will depend on the breed, age, and food. The lean is the muscular part of the animal, and consists of fibrin, gelatine, and albu- men. Experiments, which have been carefully made, show that a sirloin of beef, weighing twelve pounds, lost in roasting forty-four ounces, of which twenty- seven were water and seventeen fat or dripping. A flank of beef, weighing twelve pounds, made into pot-au-feu, or bouilli, lost twenty-five ounces. It is therefore quite clear that boiling, especially when the 202 Buckmaster's Cookery. . liquor is turned to an account, as it should be, is the most economic kind of cooking. When meat is boiled, much of the albumen remains in the water, — and when flavoured with vegetables and herbs, and - thickened with meal, you have a highly nutritious soup, much used in every country except our own. Glue is an impure gelatine. The white of egg is nearly a pure albumen ; this albumen surrounds the fibres of the meat ; and the stringy threads of stewed meat afford an example of fibrin. The osmazome is that extract or essence which gives meat its peculiar odour and taste by long stewing. ‘The osmazome is dissolved in the water, and this is the secret of all meat flavours in soup. Roasting appears to exalt the flavour of meat more than any other method of cooking. ‘The best joints for roasting are the ribs and fillet, the rump and sirloin ; for making soup, the neck, tail, and tops of ribs; and for stewing, all the inferior pieces. (See page 17.) To roast properly a good fire is most important: it should be evenly lighted, bright and radiant, and never allowed to get low. No reliable time can be given for roasting, because the nature and the qualities of meat vary. About two hours for seven pounds of beef, and one hour and three-quarters for a leg of mutton of the same weight, or roughly, about a quarter of an hour to the pound, will generally be found sufficient. To tell whether the meat is done, press the fleshy part with the thumb; if the meat yield to the pressure it is done. In the case of poultry or game, the flesh of the leg may be tried in the same manner. Cooks attach importance to the “ steams drawing to the fire.” When the meat is nearly done, Browling. 203 remove the buttered paper, if any has been used, and sprinkle over the meat a little salt, and put the ends of the joint to the fire; well baste the meat, and en- deavour to obtain a clear brown colour before the fire. If you wish the meat to be frothed, dredge very lightly a little well-dried flour over the surface, and give it time to crisp; do not baste after the flour. Practice is the only way to learn to roast properly. roiling is a very acceptable kind of cooking when well done, but anything broiled requires constant watching. It is an easy method of making a small portion of fish or meat savoury, and may be recom- mended to bachelors. It is not the cooking for families. Things broiled should be turned with steak tongs; a fork should on no account be used; and without a clear, bright fire good broiling isimpossible. (See page 18.) The principle is the same as roasting; the albumen of the meat or fish is coagulated, which forms a crust, and so retains all the juices. Delicate appetites are often encouraged with a nice broiled fish. The national beef steak and mutton chop have made us the best of broilers. There are only a few places in London where you can have these things cooked to perfection. Two gridirons are best—one for meat, the other fish. The bars of gridirons are often too large and obstruct much of the heat. The gridiron should be very clean, and if bright when purchased it should be kept so, and always be washed before putting away. Before putting anything on the gridiron let it get thoroughly hot; the reason for this is obvious; much of the heat of the fire is conducted away by the iron, and if a piece of meat be placed on at once + 204 Buckmaster's Cookery. — the albumen coagulates but slowly, and allows the juices to drop into the fire, instead of being pre- served in the meat. When your gridiron is tho- roughly clean and warm, rub the bars with a piece of suet, this prevents the meat sticking and coming to table with black stripes. If you like the flavour, just rub the gridiron with a clove of garlic, or eschalot. Perpendicular gridirons are objectionable, because there is always a current of cold air on one side of the thing broiled. For fish, the gridiron should be rubbed with chalk; as the things broiled are usually small they should be served on a very hot dish. When the fat smokes and blazes too much remove the gridiron for an instant, and just sprinkle the fire with a little salt. Arrange your gridiron, if — possible, so that it may be from two to five inches above the fire and slightly inclined towards the cook. Boiling.—Some cooks think, after a piece of meat has been placed in the saucepan, it requires no more attention, but boiling requires as much care as almost any kind of cooking. If you wish to retain all the flavour and juices of the meat plunge it into soft boiling water, and after three minutes stand it aside to simmer, at about 170° or 180°. Always remember that a boiling temperature coagulates the albumen on the surface. If you want to make stock or broth, on no account allow the water to boil; the scum must always be removed, and a little cold water facilitates its rising. Some cooks boil mutton and fowls in a ~ floured cloth, to make them look whiter, but its utility is very doubtful. Steaming.— This is found in large establishments to “ bratsing. 205 be a convenient way of cooking, but it is doubtful if things are so savoury and well cooked as by boiling ; but there are many preparations in the kitchen to which the objection does not apply. } verted Living ) and this organ- { metamor- Carbonic acid and Urea and biliary © and other into aes ace | matter, thrown compounds, ; off by other ex- cretions. These changes are incessant during the life of the animal; but the animal ultimately dies, and is entirely resolved into its inorganic elements. And there can - be no doubt that the material elements which formerly entered into the composition and helped to build up the bodies of the ancient races who have long since been gathered to their fathers, now perform similar offices in the bodies of living men. | The following table shows the leading distinctions between plants and animals in relation to food and digestion :— Lood—flunger and Thirst. 231 -_ ANIMALS VEGETABLES Live on highly nitrogenous or-| Appropriate but a small quantity ganic food. of nitrogenous inorganic food. Live actively. Live slowly. ‘Waste rapidly. Waste slowly. Renovate and repair slowly. Change slowly. Consume proximate principles. | Live on inorganic food. Convert one proximate prin-| Build up proximate principles. ciple into another. ; No animal is nourished by car-| Plantsare nourished by carbonic bonic acid or ammonia. acid and ammonia. Changes produced by inherent! Changes are produced by ex- powers of organism, ternal forces, heat, light, and electricity. Food is rendered necessary by bodily waste ; the quantity of food required must therefore depend on the rate of waste, and the quality or kind of food upon the nature of the waste. ‘The principal waste of the body consists of carbonic acid and water evolved from the lungs, and urea and uric acid excreted by the kidneys and the organs connected with the alimentary canal. The daily supply of food must therefore contain as much carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen as is daily excreted from the body in the former substances, or the body slowly crumbles into ruin. But the animal organism possesses only a very feeble constructive power; the nitrogen required must be therefore presented to it very nearly in that form in which it is assimilated by the body; in other words, the nitrogen must be presented in the form of “protein,” or some modification of it, as albumen, fibrin, and casein, more or less similar to that which exists in the tissues. The composition of the body remaining the same, the quantity of nitrogenous food daily required to build up the wasted tissues must be such as shall contain an amount of nitrogen equal 232 Buckmaster’s Cookery. to that contained in the urea and other nitrogenous excretions. By determining the daily amount of these excre- tions or degraded tissues, the quantity of flesh- forming or nitrogenous food which must be ingested per day, to sustain the animal body at its full weight and vigour, may be calculated with a fair degree of accuracy. | In like manner, the quantity of carbon that must be taken into the body daily in the carbonaceous or heat-forming food, must equal the quantity of carbon evolved from the lungs and the skin in the form of carbonic acid, Z/us the carbon passed out of the system through the bowels and the kidneys. If the whole of the food taken were digested, it would be easy to determine the amount of the excretions proper, and thus the quantity of the tissues disintegrated daily; but in general considerable quan- tities of undigested food pass out of the intestines with the excretions, and there is no certain mode of accurately determining the respective quantities of these egesta. Food ts an Exponent of Work,.—It is a familiar fact that for a man or:a horse to work hard he must eat well; but science alone can indicate the mathe- matical accuracy of the relation between eating and working. Dr. Playfair, M.P., in a most instructive and philosophical paper recently published, entitled “The Food of Man in Relation to his Useful Work,” has produced much additional evidence, showing that the nitrogenous food alone becomes a source of dynamical or mechanical and of mental work. He bea Hed lal & food—Hunger and Thirst. 233 shows that a horse may be kept in a condition of health during a state of quietude when fed daily on 12 lbs. of hay and 5lbs. of oats,—food containing about 292 oz; of nitrogenous or flesh-forming food ; but that if required to do much work, he should get daily 14 lbs. of hay, 12 lbs. of oats, and 2 bs. of beans, which con- tain about 56°2 oz. of flesh-formers. The difference in these amounts therefore indicates the amount of the flesh-formers required for the performance of the mechanical labour, over that required for mere sub- sistence, as follows :— Horse at work. . 56°2 oz. of plastic food. Theteeat rest". <./ -2912 e Pigerence . 27°0°02. The food equivalent of the mechanical labour of the horse is therefore 27 oz. of flesh-formers. Again, the amount of flesh-forming food required to keep an ordinary man of good health in a state of quietude is about 2 oz.; and the amount of flesh- formers required to keep the same man in a state of health when performing similar mechanical labour (pulling weights horizontally) is 5°5 oz. Man at work requires 5°5 oz. of flesh-formers. Man at rest 6 2°0 Difference for work 3°5 oz. 7 27 The horse at work therefore consumes — = 7'7, or ee nearly eight times as much labour-food as the man at work. But what relation does the quantity of work performed by the man bear to the quantity of work 234 LBuckmaster’s Cookery. performed by the horse? Mechanical physicists have estimated the work of a horse at 12,400,000 foot pounds, and the work of a man at 1,500,000 foot pounds; habeiire ee work of horse = 12,400,000 eas bared man = _ 1,500,000 or, in other words, the work of the horse bears the same relation to the work of a man that the labour- food of the horse bears to the labour-food of the man. Let this same inquiry be extended to the labour of the ox. Dr. Playfair states that a well-fed ox gets 50 lbs. mangel-wurzel, 3 lbs. of beans, and 17 lbs. of wheaten straw per day, the whole containing 33°6 oz. of flesh-formers. The work of an ox has been estimated at 8,640,000 foot pounds. Work of horse in foot pounds = 12,400,000 * Ox z = 8,640,000 that is, the work of the horse is 1°43 times that of the ox. But the labour-food of the horse, divided by the = 2499 labour-food of the ox, = a cee AS That is, the labour-food of the horse is about as many times greater than the labour-food of the ox as his work is greater than the work of the ox. It is said that railway contractors practically recog- nise the principle of ‘food as an exponent of work ” by discharging those labourers whose appetites fail. The quantity of food required per day to sustain the body of an adult in a state of health is a problem which has undergone considerable patient investiga- tion by Dr. Pavy, F.R.S., whose recent work on Food food--Hunger and Thirst. 235 and Dietetics is well worthy attention. The amount of food varies greatly with age, temperature, and work. There are two modes of determining this problem with various degrees of accuracy. The first consists in ascer- taining by careful examination and inquiry the amount of food actually consumed by different bodies of men of all classes of the community under the different cir- cumstances of labour, quietude, &c. ; the second con- sists in determining accurately the amount of the various excretions, particularly carbonic acid and urea. The former is probably much the safer for practical guidance, the latter probably much more accurate for scientific purposes. For detailed information on the subject of diet the reader is also referred to the treatise of Dr. E. Smith, entitled “ Practical Dietary,” which should be in the possession of every school- master. The following table shows the results of some inquiries with regard to the carbon excreted by adults of various occupations, also the carbon ingested in the food eaten by the same classes. It refers to men in the middle life and of full average health, size, and activity. CARBON EXCRETED PER DAY. | CARBON CONSUMED PER DAY. In perfect quietude . . 7°9/ Cotton and silk opera- Middle and light labour- tives, stocking wea- 5 ing classes . 9°5 vers, needlewomen, 5 Hard labouring classes . 12° 5| shoemakers | Out-door labouring classes 13°2 The adult body occupied in middle or light labour requires a daily minimum supply of food containing 94 to 10 oz. of carbon; and that the ordinarily hard- 236 Buckmaster’s Cookery. working classes require a minimum supply of carbon- aceous food containing 124 to 14 0z. of carbon. He estimates the quantity of carbon actually consumed per day at 25 grs. for every 1 lb. of the bodily weight. In addition to this, a portion of carbon from the food escapes by the bowel, making a total of 28 grs. of carbon actually required as a minimum te sustain the body of an adult weighing 150 lbs. in a state of per- manent health. In the case of an infant 136 grs. of carbon were given daily for each 1 Ib. of its weight, the infant thus . receiving three or four times as much carbon in pro- portion to its weight as is ordinarily supplied to an adult ; and from a similarly extensive course of investi- gations with respect to the quantities of nitrogen ex- creted daily, we have the following results :— NITROGEN EXCRETED DAILY.; NITROGEN CONSUMED IN Middle and light DaiLy Foop. labouring clas- Light labouring in-door ses... i... « about 200 grs:|, .classes 55 ie seen te Middle and well- Out-door labourers in fed clases )3'" 74, 2 #26075; England 2° ("aces There is a slight discrepancy in the above quantities between the amount of nitrogen consumed and ex- creted, the latter being in excess, which is not ex- plained, nor is it very important. _ Dr. E. Smith infers from these data that a lightly occupied adult requires 200 grs., and an ordinarily hard-working labourer 250 grs. of nitrogen per day in his food. The nitrogen actually assimilated or taken into the blood was 0'934 gr. to 1°4 gr. for each 1 Ib. weight of Ra an ca food—flunger and Thirst. 237 the body. Adding to this the amount daily passed off in the refuse food, he estimates the total amount of nitrogen required in the food per day at 1 to 14 gr. for each 1 lb. of the weight of the body. The nitrogen required by the infant for each 1 Ib. body weight is about six times that required by the adult. The reader will bear in mind the distinction between the nitrogen and the nitrogenous substance consumed, the latter being many times greater than the former. Dr. Brinton gives the loss of albuminous or nitro- genous substances at 12 oz. per day, or about 1 and T,350th of the entire weight of the body, which must be restored by food. He also states that a new-born infant weighing 6 to 7 lbs., taking 10 to 12 oz. of milk per day, introduces about 1-270th of its total bodily mass daily. The following table shows the quantity of salts re- quired to supply the daily loss of these substances :— QUANTITY OF SALINE CONSTITUENTS REQUIRED DAILY. Phosphoric acid . : : - 32° to 7o* ors; Chlorine. ; ; . Re CO ty Ar Sulphuric acid. ‘ 2 il yee EE a Potash i . ° 4 ener oak 1OTNe.; Soda . : . ‘ ; PO a Gy Se ae Lime . ; F ° : me A228 sy 4 OF, 2095 to 579% grs. If the chlorine and sodium be reckoned together as common salt, about 200 grs., or nearly half an ounce, is required daily. But it must be recollected that the greater portion of this substance is already contained in the food, without any further addition of the mineral itself. 238 Buckmaster’s Cookery. = _. Water can scarcely, in the accepted sense of the term, be considered food, since in all probability the water entering into the chemical composition of the tissues is derived from the water chemically combined with the food, yet it is an indispensable accompaniment of most ordinary kinds of food. The quantity retained in the body varies with exercise, temperature, &c. It is retained in the body in much larger quantities dur- ing rest than during activity; and the great reduction in the bulk of the body which occurs during a course of training for a pedestrian race, or a pugilistic contest, is due to the loss of this fluid. Water is the essential vehicle by which the food is conveyed into the system, and by which the waste materials are removed out of it. The quantity of water required to supply the daily wants of the system, under conditions of mode- rate exertion and temperature, is estimated at about 6 lbs., or nearly 5 pints. Suh. Ao Diet of Diet Diet of sistence | Dict im | Adult of Hard- Diet, | Quietude. | in Full Active | worked ' Health. |Labourers.|Labourers. a | ee ee 02. Oz Flesh-formers 2°O 2°5 Pate : 0°5 1'O Starch . ; 12'0 12'0 Starch equivt.| 13'2 14°4 Carbon : 6°7 7°4 A prize-fighter in training, who walked 17 miles daily for exercise, consumed the following :— Flesh-formers ‘ ; : 1O°8 Sez, Fat : eal : ‘ eee ee Starch . ° . - 327 ‘ss Starch equivalent . ° ° « AGIOS, food—Flunger and Thirst. 230° Food may be defined, with sufficient accuracy for all practical or scientific objects, as consisting of all those nutritious substances which are taken into the alimentary canal from the exterior of the body for the purpose of being digested, and may be classified, ac- cording to its nature and functions, under three divi- sions, viz.:—1. Plastic or nitrogenous food, which builds up, repairs, and nourishes the tissues. 2. Res- piratory or fuel food, which sustains the animal heat. 3. Mineral food, consisting of minute quantities of the alkaline and earthy salts. The following table shows the different kinds of food and their principal varieties :— I ; Water, norganic Salts. atch > (Albumen . 7 sina Contains Fin _ fence: | owes Plast « 4 Gelatin (2) hydrogen, Gluten. : *".. carport, and Legumin nitrogen. Organic Oleagi- Fats Contains Respira- nous ( Oils carbon, tory . )Saccharine . hydrogen, Starchy. . oxygen. Plastic Food is so called because it affords the material out of which all the tissues are originally formed, and by which they are subsequently repaired and nourished. It is also termed flesh-forming, azo- tized, nitrogenous, or albuminous food. This kind of food has been described as exclusively consisting of true nutriment, but there can be but little doubt that some of the elements of the tissues are also derived from the carbonaceous or heat-forming food. 240 Buckmaster's Cookery. All vegetables contain more or less of these flesh- forming principles; a few of them, as peas and beans, contain them in very great abundance, but in a form comparatively indigestible to human beings. The principal plastic constituents of flesh meat are albumen, fibrin, and gelatin (it is doubtful whether the latter exists in uncooked meat ; its nutritive value is also doubtful) ; of bread, gluten; and of peas and beans, legu- - min or casein. Milk is generally regarded as a model food, containing all the various constituents of the ' food necessary to perfect nutrition, viz., the plastic, the oleaginous, the saccharine, and the saline principles. The plastic element in milk is casein; the respiratory elements consist of fat (butter) and sugar of milk. It also contains phosphate of lime and other salts neces- sary to the formation of bone and other tissues. The following tables by Dr. Brinton show the com- position of human and cows’ milk :— HUMAN MILK. Water . : : : 3 ‘ . 88 Flesh-former, Casein a : ; ‘oS , Solids ¢ Heat-givers A 3 Aree h 8°3 12 * Salts ° ° e ° Z ——— 100 Cows’ MILK. Water . . 86 Flesh-former, Casein’ 7 5°5 Solids <~ Heat-givers ce Best 80 142 Salts ‘ ‘ Re, — I00°2 It will be seen from the above tables that cows’ ‘milk contains less water and sugar of milk, but more butter: to make it approximate in composition to that 4 Bo cali Food—Hunger and Thirst. 241 of human milk, for use in the nursery, it therefore re- quires to be diluted with water, and sweetened by the addition of sugar of milk. COMPOSITION OF FLESH MEAT Geerk Water . . ee Flesh-formers ( Fibrin andl Albumen a 18 } Gelatin od ae ary! : Heat-givers. Fat . : s 30 Solids . 50 Mineral matter (Salts) . i : 5 eee 109 One-half of ordinary uncooked beef, as is seen from the table, consists of water; consequently several vegetable substances, as lentils, peas, and beans, which contain comparatively little water, are, bulk for bulk, or weight for weight, much richer in plastic food. But little importance can be attached to the quantity of ge- latin mentioned in the table. It is doubtful whether it exists in raw meat, or in flesh in its natural state, and its properties as a flesh-former are still more open to ~ suspicion. The great value of flesh meat results not so much from its richness in the nitrogenous or plastic elements as from their easy digestibility. The following tables show the proximate chemical composition of ordinary wheaten flour, barley, oatmeal, potatoes, rye, rice, peas, and lentils :— WHEATEN FLour. Water . : : : ‘ : 14‘ Flesh-formers . a re a 14°6 (Starch e509 Heat-givers hey i : : 68°1 Fat. ee 8 Cellulose (fibre) . ‘ ‘ P ys Ashes , saeis : ‘ . 1'6 242 Buckmaster's Cookery. rw Ce re © er eee BARLEY. peed Water . ms oats aes 14'0 Llesh-former , (Gluten) . ; 12°8 . Starch . 48°0 . Heat-givers pac s —«55°8 Fat 0°3) - Woody fibre . : . 13'2 Ashes (mineral matter)» : ° 4°2 100°0 OATMEAL, Water . P ; ; rise. 3 13'6 Llesh-formers . : e ° 17'0 Starch =). nao Heat-givers . aoe : ‘ ES 53°8 Matatio ee 5°7 Fibre . ; : : : . 12°6 Mineral matter .. ° ° . 3°0 100'0 POTATO. Water. : ‘ ° : 75 “2 Llesh-formers ; : : : 14 Starch’) gai ae § Heat-givers . Sen te S 19°3 Fat . O'2 Fibre . . : . . che Ashes. p . ° : ; — 0'9 100°0 The potato is the least nutritious (flesh-forming) plant cultivated for human food. 1 Ib. of potatoes only contains 1-3rd of an oz. of flesh-formers. In some parts of Ireland a labourer is allowed 104 Ibs. daily in addition to a large supply of buttermilk. Food—Hunger and Thirst. Woody fibre ° Mineral matter . _ | RYE, Water. : : ‘ . : Gluten . 10°79 Flesh-formers . Albimen.. 2 3°04 Starch . 51°14 e i Gum (?) * 5°31 Heat-givers . Sugar 74 Fat. » 0°95 Woody fibre ‘ ; . ° Mineral matter ° RICE. Water . ; . ° P : Flesh-former (Gluten) . ‘ Starch 74°1 Heat-givers . euea we Fat . OF Woody fibre ‘ : Be ge Mineral matter PEAS. Water. ° : . ° ° Flesh-former (Casein or Cheese) Starch 37'0 Heat-givers . ake fas Pat, 2'0 Woody fibre : Mineral matter , LENTILS. Water. . ° wee : Flesh-former (Casein) . ; Starch 35'0 Heat-givers psig AG Fat. 2°0 i: 244 Buckmaster’s Cookery. —_—. Peas, beans, lentils, and other leguminous plants are among the most highly nutritious substances known; but they are very indigestible. The meal of the lentil is more easily digested, and enters largely into the food of many European countries. Gluten, or vegetable fibrin, is the nitrogenous con- _ stituent of cereal seeds. It forms the grey, sticky, tenacious, tasteless substance which is left when flour is made into a paste, and kneaded in a fine linen bag, under a gentle stream of water, so long as the water is rendered milky. It very much resembles birdliime. The white substance washed away consists of starch. Legumin is identical in composition with the nitro- genous principle of beans, peas, and lentils; if not actually identical with casein, or cheese, it very closely resembles it. ‘The Chinese prepare a kind of cheese from peas. feat-forming, respiratory, carbonaceous, or fuel food abounds in carbon and hydrogen, the combus- tion of which in the body develops and sustains the animal heat. The chief respiratory foods are starch, sugar, and the fats. In the two former the carbon only is burnt, the hydrogen being already oxidized ; in the latter the hydrogen as well as the carbon is burnt; it is therefore a more powerful respiratory food than the former. Starch and sugar contain oxygen in the proportions in which they form water; that is, the number of atoms of oxygen and hydrogen they con- tain are equal. Fats contain a very large excess of hydrogen, and but a small proportion of oxygen; the heat developed by the combustion of equal weights of- food—fHunger and Thirst 245 sugar and fat is therefore much greater in the case of the latter than of the former. In very cold regions the quantity of fat consumed would scarcely be credited but for the known veracity of the authorities by whom the facts are reported. Sir John Franklin states that he tried how much fat an Esquimaux lad about 14 years of age could eat. The boy devoured 14 lbs. of tallow candles and a piece of fat pork, and would have consumed more, but Sir John felt he had already sacrificed enough for the purpose of an experiment. Lutter possesses the general food properties of other oils and fats ; in addition to which it has the property of being exceedingly palatable, which accounts for its extensive use. Though the fats are essentially heat- forming, there can be but little doubt that they aid nutrition by combining with the albuminous principles of the blood (especially when, as in cases of consump- tion, they are in excess), thereby rendering the blood more plastic (increasing its tissue-forming power), and preventing the formation of tubercle. The preventive and curative agency of cod-liver oil in consumption is attributed to this action. Every child should be trained to eat fat at its meals; but treacle, which is often used in the poorer families in place of butter, is, especially during the colder months of winter, a very inferior food substitute for it. Stimulants are defined as substances which tem- porarily increase the activity or force of the system, or of a part of the system ; the temporary excitement being followed by a recoil or depression of greater or less intensity, bearing proportion to the previous ex- 246 Buckmaster's C ookery. citement. Dr. Anstie, in an ahie work recently pub- lished, shows this definition to be open to serious objection; but the limits of this little book will not allow of further reference to this interesting subject. The principal stimulants in ordinary use are tea, coffee, beer, wine, and spirits. The following tables show be composition of tea and coffee :— TEA. Water. x : : ° . 5°00 : Theine 5" > 30047 cane Llesh-formers Casein...) 15-00 18°00 Aromatic oil 0°75 Sugar : ‘OO Feat-formers peas binge Bs i 25°75 Fat oS 0 eas Tannic acid , ‘ : oh Woody fibre : : ; : 20°00 Mineral matter . : : : 5 ‘00 100‘00 CoFFEE. Water . : . : . : 12°000 Llesh-formers . heme . ee 14°750 Aromatic oil ‘oo2 fleat-formers . Cin 9°000 27502 Fat. 12000 Potash with peculiar acid .. ‘ .. \ Datooe: Woody fibre ; : . ; cme). t) Mineral matter . : : . :6'760 ~ I00'000 Though it is usual to describe the constituents of tea and coffee as flesh-formers and heat-formers, it is tolerably certain that they are not digested, and there- fore have no such value. The use of these substances Food—Hunger and Thirst. 247 really depends upon the palatable beverage and the refreshing stimulus they afford, and not upon their -food-power. ‘Their stimulating properties are chiefly ' due to the theine or caffeine and the volatile oil they ' contain. Cocoa, which is frequently substituted for tea and - coffee, differs, however, greatly from them in affording an exceedingly nutritious liquid food in place of mere stimulating drinks. Its proximate chemical composi- tion differs from that of tea and coffee principally in the large quantity of fat and albumen it contains. Theobromine is very similar to theine or caffeine in its - chemical qualities and composition. COCOA, Water. 4 Albumen 20'0 ) “CSA-fOrUUIS { : ce 2 Lieesh formes ( Theobromine 2°0} é Bitter: <4.) > 50°O Feat-formers | Gum ; 6'0 630 Starch ~. 7°O Woody fibre i ; : 4°0 Red colouring matter . . : 2°O Mineral matter. : ; 3 4'0 100°0 The Alcoholic Stimulants, beer, wine, and spirits, are neither useful nor economical as food; they de- pend for their popular use on their stimulating pro- perties, which are due to the alcohol they contain, and which vary in degree according to the quantity of | , alcohol present. Alcohol contains no nitrogen, and therefore contains no flesh-forming principle, and can add nothing to the substance of the decaying tissues. It was formerly classed among the heat-forming foods, and supposed to save the tissues by supplying the 248 Buckmaster’s Cookery. re e combustion material necessary to the development of — the animal heat; but it was classed among these bodies from purely theoretical considerations, Recent experiments tend to show that alcohol. undergoes no chemical change in the body, that it does not become oxidized in the system, but passes out unburnt as alcohol, and therefore can neither have developed heat nor have saved the tissues. Alcohol is said by some writers to economize the tissues by arresting waste; but recent experiments show that certain kinds of spirit actually increase the waste of the system. The testimony of all the great authorities who have latterly had the opportunity of observing its effects on masses of men exposed to excessive cold or heat, or on those who are required to exert great and continuous mental or muscular labour, is decidedly against the use of these stimulants. Condiments are substances taken with the food to impart relish, or to stimulate the digestive organs. The chief condiments used in this country are salt, mus- tard, pepper, and ginger. ‘They stimulate the action of the salivary glands and the mucous coat of the alimentary canal. With the exception of salt, the less condiments are used in health the better, especially by the young. Their free use produces artificial thirst, and thus sometimes leads to the formation of drinking habits. The following table, which is founded upon the results of Dr. Beaumont’s experiments, is extracted from Combe’s *' Physiology of Digestion: ”’— ' 7 Food—Hunger and Thirst. 249 TABLE SHOWING THE DIGESTIBILITY OF DIFFERENT KINDS OF Foon. h. m. | lay Se h, m. Rice, boiled. 1 oO Oysters, raw 2 55)Heart, fried. 4 0 Tripe..,, I O-Eggs, soft- Fowl, boiled 4 oOo Eggs, raw I 30] boiled . 3 o/Veal, broiled 4 oO Apples, ripe, Beefsteak, Beef, hard, sawn i 230) -broiled:. . .»3.., 0| » old,’ salted, Brains, boiled 1 45 |Mutton, boiled. 3.4 15 Sago mo PP as! | boiled ©. 3. ojSoup, beef, Tapioca ,, 2 oO|Apple dump- vegetables, Milk eee) bine, boiled=3 0} and bread. 4 0 Milk, raw 2 15|Bread, ‘ |Soup, = mar- Eggs, roasted 2 15] wheaten .3 30) row-bones. 4 I5 Gelatin, boiled 2 30|Butter,melted 3 30/Pork, _ salt, Potatoes, Cheese, old boiled’’.'- ta" 30 baked . . 2 30) andstreng. 3 30)Veal, fried . 4 30 Mustard, Potatoes, Duck, roasted 4 30 Pomednwe ss 2 A5| boiled . | .°3 -30/Suet, . beef, Apples, sour, Eggs, _hard- roasted . 3 Papers 50) boiled « . 3° 30) Pork, roasted § 15 Nutritiousness and Digestibility, though generally confounded in the popular estimation, are entirely different properties. Some bodies, as cheese, consist almost entirely of nutriment, but are exceedingly in- digestible; others again, as rice, are exceedingly diges- tible, but contain comparatively little nutriment. Liconomical Admixture of Foods.—About 300 grains of nitrogen and 4,600 grains of carbon are daily thrown out of the system by the lungs, skin, kidneys, and bowels. A well-arranged system of diet should supply these elements in very nearly their due propor- tion, and not compel us to take very much more of the one element in order that we may obtain the re- quisite supply of the other. Hence arises the economy of the proper admixture of foods. Ifa man lived on potatoes alone he would require at least 13 lbs. daily to supply the required nitrogen ; if on bread, he would 250 Buckmaster’s Cookery. e . ee NT ee ee a require 4 1bs.; while, on the other hand, if he lived on — meat alone, he would require 64 Ibs. daily to supply the necessary carbon ; whereas an admixture of 2 lbs. — of bread and # lb. of meat would be amply sufficient, — thus economizing both food and digestive force. | | Hunger.—The peculiar sensations consequent on — hunger would seem to refer it to the stomach; also the fact that in the normal condition of the body the feeling disappears on the introduction of food, or even of indigestible and innutritious substances. It is well known that some savage and _ half-civilized races are in the habit of introducing clay, sawdust, and other similar innutritious substances into the stomach to allay the cravings of hunger, and in this country tobacco is largely used for this purpose. The pangs of hunger are thus probably somewhat allayed, but the sense of emptiness and the faintness arising from want of food remain. Hunger has been variously attributed by different physiologists to the following causes :— (x.) Emptiness of the stomach. (2.) The irritation of the coats of the stomach by — the gastric juice. (3.) To the distension of the stomach follicles by the gastric juice. : (4.) The wants of the system. (5.) The capillary condition of the coats of the stomach. (6.) The subjective feeling consequent on the state of the brain and nervous system, Dr. Mayo states that a person may be hungry without a stomach and thirsty without a throat. | Food—Ilffunger and Thirst. 251 Thirsi.—Thirst, like hunger, is a general or systemic sensation ; that is, a state of feeling brought about by the wants of the system. Its more immediate or local seat is the mucous membrane of the back of the mouth, the fauces, and the top of the throat. Its normal cause is a deficiency of fluid in the body ; and it may be immediately relieved by introducing water into the system through an opening in the stomach, through the intestines, through the skin, or by immer- sion in a warm bath. SUMMARY OF FOOD—HUNGER AND: THIRST. Food consists of substances taken into the stomach for the purpose of digestion, or of conversion into blood. Food is rendered necessary by the waste of the system. Food is the primary source of nervous and muscular power. Food which supplies calorific power is termed heat-forming, respiratory, carbonaceous, or fuel food; and consists of starchy, saccharine, or oleaginous bodies which contain a preponderance of carbon, or of carbon and hydrogen. Food which sup- plies dynamical (mechanical and mental) power is termed histogenetic (tissue-forming), nitrogenous, azotized, proteinous, or albuminous; and consists of substances which are comparatively rich in nitrogen, as milk, eggs, flesh, cheese, peas, beans, and other bodies containing fibrin, albumen; casein, or gluten. A small portion of the respiratory food also pro- bably contributes to the formation of the tissues ; and likewise a portion of histogenetic or albuminous food to the development of the animal heat. The student and the-hard-labouring’ professional 252 Buckmaster’s Cookery. | man require even more histogenetic or tissue-forming | § food than the ordinary physical labourer. a A due supply of animal food is necessary to the - development of a high civilization; that is, to the development of races who are capable of sustained muscular and mental labour. | Alcohol, either strong or dilute, cannot possess any histogenetic power from its deficiency of nitrogen; and, as far as the results of modern experiments can © show, is neither oxidized nor burnt in the system, and — therefore is probably neither a heat-former nor a flesh- former. It is consequently deficient in true food- — power, or, in other words, can neither nourish the body nor develop heat. , A due mixture of heat-forming and flesh-forming food. is most beneficial, economizing both food and digestive (vital or nervous) power. ; An excess of animal food is much more injurious than a corresponding excess of vegetable food. Cooking renders food more savoury, wholesome, and digestible, and destroys the parasitic animals which might otherwise excite serious if not fatal disease ; it saves food, and enables the same amount of digestive (vital) power to do more effective work, and diminishes the quantity which would otherwise pass away undigested. Any system of instruction in cooking which does not include some knowledge of the chemistry and physiology of food must be defective. What is food? how is it converted into blood? how does the blood circulate ? and how is the body nourished and kept in health? are questions of the greatest importance in Salads. 253 their relation to public health and morality, and should be generally taught in all our schools. SALADS. Salads are a very simple and harmless luxury, and they make an agreeable addition to our ordinary food, and, if taken with plenty of oil, are very wholesome. In this country we are perfect savages in the making of salads. ‘The dressing is often served up in a twisted bottle, and the wet vegetables are heaped up on a dish like food for cows, with the polite invitation to every one to help himself. A salad properly prepared should | be one of the most attractive dishes on the table. There are many little things necessary to secure a good salad, and their variety is only limited by the inge- nuity of the cook. The Spanish proverb is that four persons are necessary to make a good salad,—“A spendthrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a barrister for salt, and a madman to stir it up.” Young ladies in the country, where they have an abundance and variety of vegetables, might render a national service if they would turn their attention to salads as well as to croquet. If you wish to preserve the crispness and flavour of green vegetables for salads they should be gathered either early in the morning or late in the evening, and put in a cool damp place. To soak green vegetables in water to keep them fresh, or to keep up the appearance of freshness, is a mistake. Lettuce, which is the chief thing in most green salads, should be eaten young or the leaves are too strong for a delicate salad, and if possible lettuce should never be washed or cut with a steel knife: the best way is to 254 Buckmaster’s Cookery. RE break the lettuce into the bowl, or to cut it witha silver — knife. If you must wash the vegetables do it quickly, and thoroughly dry them in a clean cloth before q J putting into the salad bowl. A salad should never be q prepared till a few minutes before it is wanted. A variety of vegetables may be used according to taste, - but the fewer the better ; cress is often too thready to be used agreeably ; the chief vegetables are lettuce, endive, radishes, onions, basil, mustard, watercress, cucumber, celery, mint, parsley, beetroot, dandelion, tarragon, chervil, sorrel, and tomatoes. On the Con- tinent cold meat, fish, fowl, and game are more often served as salads than green uncooked vegetables. Our forefathers had the same notion of salads, which were frequently prepared by them from previously cooked meat and vegetables. Ravigote (see page 131) is. sometimes sprinkled over the salad. Above all things be particular with the sauces and jellies, meat or fish, served as part of the salad. MACEDOINE SALAD. Ingredients. French beans. Green peas. Mayonaise sauce, Carrots. Celery. Beetroot. Turnips. 4 Asparagus. Artichoke. Ravigote. Blanch and boil separately, and cool and dry in a clean cloth equal quantities of some or all of the following vegetables—young carrots, turnips, beetroot, French beans, celery roots, green peas, asparagus peas (the young tops of asparagus are called asparagus peas), and two artichoke roots. When cooked, cut neatly int) dice of about three-eighths of an inch: * Salads. 255 mix the whole in a salad bowl, sprinkle with Ravigote, and season with mayonaise sauce. Precautions—Vhis salad requires great care in the selection of young vegetables. When carefully made it is an excellent summer salad. : VEGETABLE SALAD.: Ingredients. Carrots. Peas. Turnips. Asparagus, . French beans, Ravigote. Boil separately equal weights, according to the quantity required, of the following vegetables :—French beans, carrots, green peas, » turnips, and asparagus points ; dry these vegetables ina clean cloth, and when - quite cold cut them into dice of one quarter or three- eighths of an inch; the French beans should be cut into squares ; now arrange them on a dish; begin by placing the French beans at the bottom and in the centre, arrange round the French beans in about equal quantities in narrow rows the carrots, then peas, then . turnips, then asparagus points, and, if the dish is large - enough and the vegetables sufficient, proceed again in the same order; sprinkle the surface with a table- spoonful of Ravigote—ze¢, fineiy-minced chervil, tarragon, burnet, chives, and garden-cress, all pre- viously blanched, strained, cooled, and dried in a clean cloth. Serve with mayonaise sauce in a boat. Precautions.—The success of this salad, like the above, depends on the vegetables being young and tender. 256 Buckmaster’s Cookery. FISH SALAD. sete Lngredients. Lettuce. Cucumber. Beetroot. Cold fish. Tarragon. Chervil. Sorrel. Mayonaise sauce. Hard-boiled eggs. Endive. Nasturtium flowers. Watercress. Take the remains of any cold boiled fish and cut them into small scollops about two inches, and dip them into mayonaise sauce; wash if necessary two freshly- gathered young Goss lettuce, a little endive and water- cress, and drain over a colander and dry in a clean cloth by shaking to remove all the water; break up the lettuce, watercress, and endive into pieces about three-quarters of an inch in length, mince a small sprig of chervil, two leaves of tarragon, and a few leaves of sorrel, peel and slice one cucumber and one beetroot, mix all together thoroughly, and begin by rubbing the dish with garlic; now arrange at the foundation a layer of the green vegetables, then a layer of cold fish, meat, chicken, lobster, shrimp, fowl, or game; now a thin layer of mayonaise sauce, then a layer of vegetables, and so on, finishing with mayonaise sauce, and garnishing with nasturtium flowers ; some of the beetroot and cucumber may be reserved to arrange alternately round the edge of the dish, and hard-boiled eggs, or olives or aspic jelly may also be introduced: this makes a very pretty founda- tion. With all fish salads mayonaise sauce should be served in a boat. | Precautions.—The mayonaise sauce must be good and the vegetables fresh, and taste should be shown in the arrangement of the materials. Tomato Salad. 287 ini LETTUCE SALAD. Ingredients. Lettuce. Tarragon. Eggs. Oil. Eschalot. Vinegar. Cress, If necessary wash two lettuces, dry them thoroughly in a cloth, and break the leaves or cut them with a silver knife into convenient pieces; put the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs into a basin (not boiled more than eight or nine minutes or the yolks will be dark- coloured), with a teaspoonful of dry mustard, pepper and salt to taste, and one tablespoonful of oil; work the mixture into a smooth paste and add gradually three tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar; when mixed to the consistency of cream add two or three leaves of tarragon, and one small eschalot finely min- ced, and the whites of the two eggs cut into half-inch dice, then add the lettuce and a small handful of garden cress, and when the sauce is thoroughly mixed with the vegetables the salad is ready. Precautions.—See that you have young tender lettuce, and be careful to mix the sauce thoroughly before adding the vegetables. * TOMATO SALAD. Lngredients, Tomatoes. Oil. Vinegar. Mustard, Basil. Take six tomatoes, but not too ripe to handle, cut them into slices and remove all the seeds, rub a dish with garlic, and lay them ina mixture of oil and vinegar in the proportion of two of oil to one of vinegar; sprinkle pepper and salt over them according to taste, and a few leaves of fresh basil finely minced. Let S O50 Buckmaster's Cookery. them lie in the sauce for two hours, and the salad is ready. Precatutions.—Be careful in the selection of the tomatoes and well free them from seed. POTATO SALAD. Ingredients. Boiled potatoes. © Capers. Tarragon... Thyme, Parsley. Garlic. Oil. Vinegar. Cold boiled potatoes make a very good salad. Take one pound, cut them into slices the thickness of a penny, arrange them neatly on a dish which has been rubbed with eschalot or garlic. Mince equal quan- tities of capers and parsley, two or three leaves of © tarragon and thyme, altogether about a tablespoonful, add oil and vinegar in the proportion of two of oil to one of vinegar, and pepper and salt to taste; work all well together, and pour over the potatoes. Precautions.—For this salad the potatoes should be dry and well boiled. CAULIFLOWER SALAD. Ingredients. Boiled cauliflower. Tarragon. Chervil. Capers. Parsley. Garlic, _ Thyme. Marjoram. Oil. Vinegar. Boil a cauliflower till tender, but not so as to break in pieces; when cold cut it up neatly into small sprigs. Beat up three tablespoonfuls of oil added gradually to one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar and half a table- spoonful of common vinegar, add pepper and salt to taste. Rub the dish very slightly with garlic ; arrange the pieces of cauliflower on it, strew over them some Calf’s Foot Felly. 359 capers, a little tarragon, chervil, and parsley, all finely minced, and the least bit of powdered dried thyme and marjoram. Pour the oil and vinegar over, and serve. Precautions. —The cauliflower should be fresh and carefully boiled, and the salad not too much flavoured. The garlic may be omitted, or an eschalot finely minced used instead. JELLIES, ICE CREAMS, AND ICES. Animal gelatine is the basis of all jellies. Isinglass, which is the purest variety, is prepared from the swimming bladder of the sturgeon. ‘The jelly sold in shops is a highly clarified glue, often made from the trimmings from tan yards. The preparation of a jelly is one of the most refined and delicate opera- tions in cookery. The chief qualities of a jelly are colour, transparency, and flavour, which depend on the quality of the materials and the straining. Everything should be scrupulously bright and clean ; the spoons should be of wood or bone, and for coloured jellies earthenware or copper moulds should be used. The jelly should be prepared the day before it is wanted, and the foundation is calf’s feet, which may be re- garded as one of the few English inventions in cookery. . Pans FOOT JELLY. Lngredients, Calf’s feet. Eggs. Lemon. Loaf-sugar. Take four calf’s feet, scald them, and scrape off all the hair, split them, bone them, and remove any fat. Put them into a clean six-quart stockpot or saucepan s 2 260 Buckmaster's Cookery, ~ . 3 nearly filled with cold water. Let the water come to the boil aiid skim it most carefully, then let it simmer for eight or nine hours, occasionally adding a little boiling water to prevent the liquor from evaporating too much. At the end of this time there will be from three to four quarts of stock, which should be strained through a hair sieve into a basin and then removed to a cool place. The next morning remove all the fat, £ ; wash the jelly with warm water and wipe it with a ~ clean cloth. Clarify the jelly by putting it into a stew- pan with one pound and a half of lump-sugar, three- quartets of an ounce of cinnamon, six cloves, a teaspoonful of coriander seeds, the juice of eight lemons, and half a bottle of good sherry. If the jelly is to be used for fruit or liqueurs, the wine, cloves, lemon, and coriander seed must be omitted, and ten lemons used instead of eight. Take the whites only of six eggs and one whole egg, whip them up in a basin, and then add a pint of the warm jelly and mix with the whipped eggs, stirring from right to left all the time. Pour the whole into the stewpan with the remainder of the jelly and continue stirring till it comes to the boil, simmer for fifteen minutes, dip the jelly-bag into boiling water, wring it out and put the peel of two lemons into it. Arrange the bag by tying it securely to two chairs, placed back to back a convenient distance apart, in a place free from dirt and dust. Strain the jelly through into a basin; repeat this two or three times till the jelly is quite clear, and then put it aside in a cool place till it is wanted. Cow heels may be used instead of calf’s feet, but the jelly. is not so delicate. A trawberry Crean. 261 Precautions. —The jelly should not be agitated after it begins to liquefy, and a little melted isinglass when clarifying will give firmness to the jelly. * STRAWBERRY CREAM. Ingredients. Strawberries. Cream. Ice. Gelatine. Soak two ounces of pure gelatine in cold water, just sufficient to cover it. Now take two punnets of straw- berries, pick them, and put them in a basin with three- quarters of a pound of pounded loaf-sugar. After five or ten minutes pass them through a fine sieve and add the juice of one lemon. Dissolve the re ina small clean stewpan over the fire, and when cold mix it with the strawberries by straining through a pointed strainer into another stewpan containing the purée of strawberries. Surround the stewpan with ice and stir till the con- tents begin to freeze. Whip three half pints of cream, remove the stewpan from the ice, and lightly and gra- dually stir in the whipped cream. Take acylinder mould (not tin) and fill it, place the filled mould in a basin with pounded ice round it, cover the top with the lid of a stewpan and cover the lid with ice, and in about two hours the cream will be set. Have ready a large. basin of water, as hot as the hand can bear, dip the mould entirely in the water, take it out quickly, place a dish on the top of the mould, reverse it, and it is ready. If the cream does not leave the mould freely dip it again into the hot water. Precautions.—Be careful not to break the jelly in - turning out. : ot 262 Buckuaster’s Cookery. STRAWBERRY ICE PUDDING. Ingredients. Tce. Strawberries. » Pounded loaf-sugar. | Almonds. Take two pints of strawberries, pick them, and put them in a basin with half a pound of pounded loaf- sugar, let them remain a few mimutes, then pass them through a sieve (a purée). Melt one ounce of isinglass in half a pint of water, and when cold strain it through a fine sieve into the purée, and thoroughly mix by constantly stirring. Take a plain mould, which may be decorated with blanched almonds, fill it with the purée, put it on the ice, cover the top with a stew- pan lid, and then with ice. Let it remain two hours ~ and it is ready. Precautions.,—Be careful in turning it out, and do not add the water till quite cold. : CLARIFIED SUGAR OR WATER ICES. The water for these ices is prepared by dissolving one pound and a half of sugar in one pint of water, then beat up and stir in halt the white of one egg, let it come to the boil and continue boiling for ten minutes with frequent skimming ; strain through a hair sieve, and when cold the water is ready for use. ‘This is called clarified sugar. There is often a little difficulty in freezing, which generally arises from the water or cream being too sweet. It will then be necessary to add a little more water or milk. Too much sugar in solution prevents the liquid from freezing. Ices are a very agreeable luxury and easily made, and the a, Lees. 263 quantities given in the following recipes are for one pint and a half of ice. — CHERRY-WATER ICE. Beat up in amortar one pound of cherries with their stones, and make them into a purée, then add the juice of two lemons to one pint of clarified sugar and half a pint of water, mix thoroughly and freeze. LEMON-WATER ICE. Rub off the rind of two lemons on some lumps of sugar, add the juice of six lemons and one orange, a pint of clarified sugar, and half a pint of water, strain through a hair sieve and freeze. STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY-WATER ICE. Place in a basin one pound of picked strawberries and half a pound of raspberries, make into. a purée and mix with one pint of clarified sugar and half a pint of water, thoroughly mix and freeze. RASPBERRY AND CURRANT ICE CREAM. | Prepare a pound of strawberries and half a pound of red currants, pass them. through a sieve, and mix with three-quarters of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and a pint of cream. Freeze. PINE-APPLE CREAM. Remove the peel and seeds from a pine-apple, take one pound and work it to a pulp in a marble mortar, pass the pulp through a large hair sieve (purée), mix the purée with three-quarters of a pound of pounded 264 Buckmaster’s Cookery. — loaf-sugar and one pint of cream. Thoroughly mix and freeze. GINGER ICE CREAM. Bruise in a mortar six ounces of the best preserved ginger, and pass it through a hair sieve, add the juice of a lemon, half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and a pint of cream. ‘Thoroughly mix and freeze. LEMON ICE CREAM. Rub off the rind of two lemons on some lumps of loaf-sugar, squeeze the juice of the lemons into a basin with the pieces of sugar, and add half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar and one pint of cream. Thoroughly mix, pass through a horsehair sieve, and | freeze. A glass of good brandy added will make Italian ice cream. STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM. Take a pound of fresh strawberries, remove the stalks and cast aside the bad ones. Put them ina basin and sprinkle them with half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, then add the juice of a lemon, make a purée by passing through a horsehair sieve, and add one pint of cream. Mix thoroughly and freeze. ITALIAN CREAM. Ingredients. Isinglass. Milk. Sugar. Lemon. Shetry. Simmer half an ounce of isinglass in a little milk with the thin outer rind of half a lemon. Whip up half a pint of cream with the juice of two lemons, a alii Orange Salad. 265 half a gill of sherry, and a dessert-spoonful of pounded loaf-sugar. When the isinglass is all dissolved (re- move the lemon rind), and, while warm, stir the whole together in a basin. Put it into a mould, stirring to prevent any settlement, This cream may be flavoured with any liqueur, with raspberry, strawberry, or any other fruits, instead of lemon, and coloured, if neces- sary, with cochineal. Precautions.— The isinglass must be thoroughly dis- solved in the milk before mixing. = APPLE FRITTERS. Ingredients. Apples. Batter, Hot fat. Pounded loaf-sugar. Prepare a batter as directed in page 117. Peel some apples, Ribston or Blenheim pippins are the best. Remove the core with a vegetable cutter, and cut the apples across into slices of about three-eighths of an inch. Roll in pounded loaf-sugar and dip the slices into frying batter and fry in hot fat till they are of a nice yellow colour and crisp. Remove them on to a cloth and sprinkle with pounded loaf-sugar. Arrange them in a heap on a hot napkin and serve. Precautions.—The temperature of the fat should be slightly increased after adding the fritters, and they should be well covered with batter before frying. ORANGE SALAD. Ingredients. Oranges. Pounded loaf-sugar. Liqueur. Take one or two good oranges, wipe them, and cut them with the peel into slices of not more than a 266 Buckmaster’s Cookery. quarter of an inch in thickness. Arrange them round a circular dish, and let each piece overtop its prede- cessor. Sprinkle over two ounces of pounded loaf- sugar and add a gill of brandy, or any liqueur; but if sweet liqueurs are used, ov/y half the quantity of sugar need be employed. Thee e a PreGLURE XI. ‘* Use hospitality one to another without grudging.” ‘* Waste not, want not.” THE COOKERY SCHOOL—FRENCH COOKING—~ ' WASTE—CONCLUSION. Last year I delivered 362 lectures on the general principles of cooking, and this year I have delivered 25 lectures, and I have reason to know, from a large number of communications from all parts of the country, that many hints given in these lectures have greatly improved the cooking in private houses. When persons came with a desire to learn, they rarely went away disappointed. I never lost an opportunity of enforcing the necessity of practical work in the kitchen. Lectures and illustrations are very useful in exciting an interest, but to know how to do anything, and to teach others with pleasure and confidence, you must be able to do the thing your- self. I urged over and over again, almost to weari- ness, the importance of repeating with your own hands in your own houses what you had seen in this school. The experiment of last year has developed into a national training school, with classes for practical in- struction in cookery. Now the establishment of such a school is not so easy as it appears on paper. There are so many details essential to success, difficult to provide for, and difficult to foresee, that the person ¥ 268 Buckmaster's Cookery, who subscribes ten guineas for so good an object, comes off cheaply and cheerfully compared with those who have to work out these details to a satisfactory result. Every day, except Saturday, the daughters of noblemen, the wives and daughters of clergymen, domestic servants, and persons qualifying to teach others, assemble in this school from ten to four, and receive practical instruction in cooking; our great difficulty is in obtaining suitable persons to qualify as teachers. We want this cookery to grow into a part of our national education, so that no woman in future shall waste her husband’s substance from ignorance. If we had the convenience, instead of teaching twenty, which is ; all we can accommo- date, the number might easily be increased to a hundred without any great addition in the cost of management. We require every person attending | this school, without any regard to their station in life, to learn, in the first place, how to light and manage a fire, to clean the fire-place, to whiten the hearth, to regulate the dampers, to manage an oven, to know the principles involved in the construc- tion of Kitcheners and patent fire-places, the relative advantages of an open or closed range, the elemen- tary principles of heat, the advantages and disadvan- tages of gas-stoves. When these have been mastered, we proceed to a matter of the first importance—the most scrupulous cleanliness in pots and pans, which is the cardinal virtue of all cookery, and the best method of cleaning them; the advantages and dis- advantages of enamel, tin, copper, iron, and porcelain — saucepans. \ + ut ‘ Jory = The Cookery School. 269 We then proceed to the proper tests for regulating the temperature of water and fat; how to clarify fat ; the difference between simmering and boiling, between boiling and stewing, between broiling and frying, and the use of the Bain-marie and Captain Warner’s cooking pot. When these elementary principles have been mastered—and it takes but little time, with an intelligent person under a good teacher—we proceed to the pot-au-feu—the preparation of stock soups and broths, roasting, braising, boiling, entrées, vege- tables, jellies, ices, creams, sauces, fried and boiled fish, omelettes and soufflers, pastry, puddings, pies, sick-room cookery ; and I have no hesitation in say- ing, that any pupil, teacher, or young person of average intelligence, could learn to do all these things perfectly and thoroughly in three months. You may forget a piece of music, or your French, but you will never forget your cooking. A cookery school, then, is a place where the theoryand the practice of cooking are taught by means of lectures, examina- tions, and practical work. Cooking must be taught as you would teach chemistry, or any other experimental science; for cookery, rightly understood, is an experi- mental science. ‘The chemistry and physiology of food should also be taught ; this would instruct us in the true nature and functions of food. The wide-spread ignorance on this subject, not only among the poor, but among all classes, is a wide-spread misfortune. You may fill the stomach without nourishing the body, and in nothing is this ignorance more evident than in the purchase of fat bacon and pork and _ potatoes among the labouring classes. ‘There is some sense wp 270 = Buckmaster’s Cookery. in peas-pudding and fat pork, but none in potatoes and fat bacon. You cannot feed persons on these things without a gradual physical deterioration of the race. The family dinner of every poor man ought to be a daily social elevating influence—a time when men exchange with their wives and children the courtesies of civilized life, and there is nothing to prevent the poorest labourer striving for such a civilization ; and in this striving we have the hope and earnest of a better future. I wish the poor of this country could see the homes of some of the French peasantry. Be the food ever so plain or simple, with a few wild flowersand a clean cloth, is a constant refining, elevating influence in every house. I do not mean eating to excess, because gluttony, ike drunkenness, is to be avoided as a sin. How many political questions and marriages have been settled over a dinner. Of all the influences of domestic life, it is undisputably the highest. You may civilize asavage by feeding him, and in no country is a good dinner more appreciated than in England; and in no country, among the middle and working classes, is good cooking so exceptional. In every decent house a dinner should be regarded as the principal daily event of the family, a time for moral expansion, when persons meet not only to dine, but to laugh, to talk, to delight each other by wit and pleasant conversation, as well as to satisfy their hunger. Eating, then, is not the only purpose of a dinner ; nor does an ordinary every-day dinner require a profound knowledge of cooking, it is only on special pepe occasions that you require professional skill; and my | French Cooking. = 49% notion is, you should never invite persons to a dinner that cannot be prepared in your own house and by your own servants. We want lightness, brightness, and laughter, and it is when these are united to good domestic cookery that families know how to dine and enjoy what God has provided. Good cookery is required because it has a great moral influence in every family. In France, wealth is the exception, and poverty the rule; and prudent thrift is generally practised when not imposed by necessity. Economy in housekeeping—and by economy I do not mean niggardliness, but wise forethought—-stands the first of domestic duties, and although the French, as a rule, live cheaply, they have what we have not, the faculty of making the best of everything. But I do not want you to imitate French manners and habits, only so far as they are better than our own. The eating of the middle classes in France, inexpen- sive as it is, is certainly superior to that of more wealthy persons in this country. Poverty does not prevent skill; poor and humble as the dish is, it has ‘its proper flavour, its own individual character. Intel- ligence will often do more in the kitchen than money. Going to market does not mean purchasing things at ‘the cheapest rate; it involves the higher talent of adapting the choice of the things you purchase to the use which it is proposed to make of them. The prevailing idea is smail quantities and everything eaten up. ‘The best way to have enough is to be careful not to have too much. No French woman would purchase the same kind of chicken for a fricassée as she would purchase if she meant to roast it; nor 272 Buckmaster's Cookery. Se ———$_—- would she purchase the same sort of vegetables to be eaten alone as those to be used ina soup, or the same meat for stewing as for roasting. When a sauce is to hide the inferiority and ugliness of a dish, there is no occasion to spend money on good looks. Less fuel is required for a small dish than a large one, and never have a larger fire than is necessary. The economy of feeding a family consists in avoiding expensive articles of food, and depending more on cheaper ones. If you place a joint of cooked meat at 1s. 6d. per pound before a family and let them eat till they are satisfied, you have an expensive meal ; but if you begin with a little soup and bread or vegetables, which partially satisfy the appetite, a much smaller quantity of meat will be sufficient—and — it follows that such a meal will be cheaper in propor- tion, as soup, bread, and vegetables are cheaper than meat, always having regard to the food value of your materials. Living on meat is now the most costly and extravagant of all living, and in this country we know of only four methods of cooking it—roasting, frying, boiling, and that horror of all households, hashed meat. We can roast a joint of meat equal to, or better, than any Frenchman ; we can sometimes fry a pair of soles fairly; we can also boil, which is often one of the most wasteful kinds of cooking, and here cur resources fail. To boil our food is to extract its flavour, its essences, and its juices, and a considerable portion of its nutritive properties in the water. In every other country this process is called making soup, which we despise, and so extensively is this principle applied that even " French Cooking. 273 water in which haricot beans, cauliflowers, and cabbages have been boiled, is always kept to make a basis for a vegetable soup. Every liquid which has extracted the flavour of any boiled substance is looked upon as too valuable to be wasted. In this country it is common, after we have carefully extracted much of the flavour, gelatine, albumen, and fat from turkeys, fowls, beef, legs of mutton, green peas and beans, to carefully throw away the ‘dirty water in which they have been boiled. This waste in the aggregate is enormous, because we have a senseless prejudice against swallowing soups and broths, which have been described as hot water stirred with a tallow candle. Now the fundamental principle of every sensible woman is, or ought to be, that every- _ thing which is in food ought to be eaten; that the whole of the nourishment should be carefully pre- served in every food substance, and digested in the stomach, instead of being sent down the drain. We are none the better fed because we purchase more meat, and eat on an average about twenty-five pounds more, than any other nation. Except the harder sorts of vegetables, the French boil very little; from Dunkerque to Bayonne, from Nice to Strasbourg, nothing goes into the saucepan except to make a soup; but then the people live chiefly on soups. Meat is too expensive for men whose wages are far below the poorest agricultural labourer in Suffolk, and so they live on soups, stews, a little pork, beans, potatoes, and bread, and from these they make wholesome, nourishing meals; not a scrap is lost, everything finds its way into the stomach, and a a : ey 274 Buckmaster's Cookery. Picardy peasant, with very scanty materials, will live and enjoy life like a Christian much better than many a small farmer in this country. The cooking in French hotels and restaurants gives no idea of the excellent cooking in private houses in Picardy, Orleans, and Burgundy. There are too many artifices and too much coarse flavouring in restaurants and hotels which destroy the individuality of the thing cooked. ‘The best French cooking is not to be had in Paris, except in a few houses; and as we ascend in the scale so we find the same principle: cook every- thing, eat everything, and waste nothing. I have often spoken in this school against wasteful- ness. The waste of food through ignorance is to be pitied and partly excused, but when food is wilfully wasted it is a sin against God. One Sunday in August I walked through Hyde Park, and not far from the spot where men speechify on the short- comings of governments, and within a few yards of churches and chapels, and rich people’s houses, I saw at least two bushels of broken pieces of mouldy bread and the remains of joints of meat sufficiently good a few days before to have provided a dinner for twenty or thirty persons. A few hungry dogs—and there are fewer hungry dogs in London than hungry men—were gnawing vigorously at the bones; ugly, well-to-do dogs, with silk and velvet collars and silver bells, came and smelt and then passed on. The sparrows flew backwards and forwards from the trees, and ladies in gorgeous dresses, with ivory and gold Prayer-books, carried by well-fed servants, held up their heads and ~ flounced by this shameful heap as if it were a load of 4 C4 Waste. 275 stones ; no look of shame, no word of sorrow, although many of them had just returned from places where they had been to ask and thank God for their daily bread. No one seemed struck with the wickedness of this waste. For some time I watched the crowd as it passed on, but no one looked on this mouldy heap. At last one old man, on whose head time had begun to shed its prophetic snow, collected a few pieces and carried them away a little distance in his battered hat; he sat down on the grass and began to eat his Sunday dinner. I obtained a bag and collected some of the pieces, and I have brought them here for you to see. I do not want you to indulge in any common-place words of sorrow; I want you to look well to the ways of your own households, and set your hearts and faces against wastefulness. This bread and meat came not from the poor but the wealthy, a clear-out in the dead of night probably, and thrown over the railings before the family left. For eight months in the year the husbandman labours with anxious thought through seed-time and harvest, and when the corn is gathered in, he rejoices because God has blessed and rewarded his labours. Churches, in accordance with an old Anglo-Saxon custom, are decorated with sheaves of wheat, barley, oats, flowers, and fruit, and you are invited to meet together and sing praises to Him who giveth food to all flesh; and when I reflect on the sunshine, and rain, and labour necessary to cultivate the earth and make it bring forth its increase, and the toil of the poor man to obtain bread in sufficient abundance withottt waste for his family, I feel there is a peculiar T 2 em : 276 Buckmaster’s Cookery. sacredness attached to bread, which makes the waste of it more sinful in the eyes of Him who has promised seed-time and harvest, who covereth the mountains with grass, and giveth to every beast its proper food, and hath left us an example to gather up the frag- — ments, that nothing be lost. Every day since the school opened, the conviction has been deepening in my mind that of all civilized arts, none are of so much importance to the health and comfort of domestic life, and the physical well- being of a nation, as a sufficiency of good food made wholesome and digestible by good cooking. - Not only among the poor, but among all classes, there exists a large amount of ignorance on the true functions of food, and as a natural result of this ignorance we have waste and suffering. — When I was solicited to undertake these lectures, I was not without my misgivings. I knew how difficult it was to awaken and sustain an interest in cooking. The fashion of this world had stamped the art as low, menial, and vulgar. If I have spoken severely at any time of the shortcomings and ignorance of domestic servants, I have never indulged in any time-serving flattery of their mistresses. A lady who teaches her servants and her children by the silent eloquence of a good example, in dress, in teachableness, in kind- ness, and in work, exercises an incomparably greater influence, and touches the heart more deeply and effectually than by constant fault-finding. I do not profess to be purer or better than others, but I am thankful that I have had the moral courage to resist all inducements to advertise in this school infants Cookery Lectures. 277 — et food, feeding-bottles, self-raising flour, egg powders, teething powders, baking powders, concentrated essences, sauces, patent fuel, stoves and other things, although the temptation to do so has often peen dishonourably great; and I am astonished to see the names of reputed scientific men plastered all over the country as godfathers and godmothers to the purity of tea and champagne, and the rich Protestant flavour of Irish bacon. A good, honest, genuine article at a reasonable profit will in time make itself known without the aid of testimonials, which are often more false than true. I have also endeavoured to teach the sacredness of food. What deep significance in the words, “Give us this day our daily bread!” How it links the daily food of man with the highest of all thoughts, that of God! ° The English, perhaps more than any other people, were once distinguished for their love of home. Our pictures and our poetry have drawn their finest feelings and imagery from the pure domestic life of a happy English fireside. But one cannot fail to observe the gradual loosening of all the cords which once held husbands and fathers to their homes. Thousands of married men go home every night by late trains; they prefer’ drinking and smoking and spending their evenings anywhere rather than with their families. ‘The remedy for this state of things is to be found in better cooking, and the early edu- cation, both of mothers and daughters, in the prac- tical duties of domestic life. It is a source of gratifi- cation to me to know that the work I have attempted in this school is appreciated. I have addressed nearly * 278 Buckmaster’s Cookery. — 65,000 persons, and delivered 387 lectures. I have en- deavoured, in my humble way, according to my light, to do my best. I have laboured with earnestness and faith in a field hitherto uncultivated ; others 5 may come in and reap where I have sowed, but as the rain and snow from the heavens doth not return, but moisteneth the earth, and maketh it generate and put forth its ingrease that it may give seed to the sower and bread ~ to the eater, so shall be the words sown in faith; they shall not return fruitless, but shall effect what God hath willed, and make the purpose succeed for which He hath sent it. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS ON THE MAN- NER OF REGULATING THE SERVICE OF THE TABLE, FOR ORDINARY DINNERS, AND ALSO FOR DINNERS OF INVITA- TIONS. THe choice and arrangement of dishes for a dinner are often a matter of embarrassment to many housekeepers. In order to assist them, I give below some short and general instructions concerning the best and cheapest method of preparing the ordi- nary family dinner for the several days of the week, and ‘a few menus for dinners given on special occa- sions. The breakfast, being a meal of secondary import- ance, I shall only say that the remains of the dinner can always be used at the next day’s breakfast, by adding eggs, vegetables, fish, or bacon. Be 3 q “ e. Ordinary Dinners. 279 ORDINARY DINNERS. Monpay.—Pot-au-feu ; with half of the broth, a vermicelli or other soup could be made. The beef could be served with small cucumbers, cabbages, or other vegetables. A roast rabbit, and a salad ; or the rabbit fricasseed, with a dish of vegetables of any kind. Some apples cooked with butter and sugar. Observations.—The remains of the beef can be pre- pared in innumerable ways for breakfast next day ; and the remains of the rabbit, if roasted, served cold ; if fricasseed, warmed up. : Turespay.—With the other half of Monday’s broth, prepare a rice soup. A piece of braised beef or veal with small carrots. A dish of vegetables in season, ora fish. For dessert some stewed fruit. Observations.—The remains of the veal can be served cold next day for breakfast, with some ham. WEDNESDAY.—A “‘soup maigre.” Peas: Boiled Fowls, Oyster | Roast Leg of Mutton. Sauce or Béchamel | Spinach with Cream. Sauce. Sweet Omelette. Spring Soup :— Follow instructions given for a vegetable soup, on page 51. This soup must be made, as its name im- plies, with spring vegetables only. When it is ready to be served, add some asparagus peas and green peas previously boiled. Red Mullets baked. See page 124. Lamb Cutlets, Asparagus Peas. See page 220, “Mutton Cutlets.” . Prepare the “asparagus peas” as follows :—Cut the green part into small pieces, the shape of peas, boil them carefully, drain them free from all moisture, add an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, a pinch of sugar, and a tablespoonful of white sauce ; stir the contents of the saucepan gently over the fire till the butter is melted, garnish your cutlets with the asparagus peas, and serve. Roast Leg of Mutton. See page 209. Spinach with Cream :— Prepare the spinach according to directions, page 186, and then add a gill of cream, an ounce of fresh 286 Buckmaster’s Cookery, | butter, and a teaspoonful of pounded loaf-sugar ; work the whole together over a moderate fire. Sweet Omelette. See page 187. MAY. | e Soup a la St. Germain. Roast Ducklings. | Fillets of Mackerels, 4 la | French Beans with fine ; Maitre d’H6tel. Herbs. * Chickens 4 la Marengo. Strawberry Jelly. Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. Soup a la St. Germain— Or green pea soup, as given on page 31. : Mackerels ala Maitre d Hotel. See page 124. Chickens a la Marengo :— The same process as for the fricassee of chicken with mushrooms, p. 215, but the chicken must be cooked in four tablespoonfuls of good lucca oil in- stead of butter, with a little tomato sauce and the juice of a lemon added to the sauce; after having dished up all the pieces in proper order and poured the sauce over, garnish with four crayfish, place round four fried eggs and four large crofitons of fried bread, Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. See page 220, feoast Ducklings. See page 212. he, * Menus. 287 french Beans with fine Herbs :— After having boiled them (see page 200) they must be drained on a colander; then put in a saucepan two pats of fresh butter with some finely chopped parsley and two eschalots, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; simmer over the fire until melted, put in the beans, and toss all together, and dish up with or with- out crofitons arranged round the dish. Strawberry Ice Cream. See page 261. JUNE. Purée of Asparagus Soup. | Veal 4 la Bourgeoise. Sturgeons or Dory | Roast Turkey. Creo. es Pigquante).GreenPeas..4 Ja Pay Sauce. sanne. Boiled Capons a la/ Bain-Marie Pudding. Béchamel. Puree of Asparagus Soup. See page 45. Sturgeons or Dory grilled, Sauce piguante :— After your fish is prepared according to the instruc- tions given for “ Broiled Salmon,” page 115, pour over some “piquante sauce,” pages 132 and 133, accord- ing to taste. Boiled Capon a la Béchamel :— After the capon is boiled (see page 214, “ Boiled 288 Buckmaster's Cookery. Fowls”), serve it with the béchamel (No. 136) in a q sauce boat. | q Veal a la Bourgeoise :— 4 Take about five or six pounds of veal, lard it, put it : into a large stewpan, with about a quarter of a pound of bacon cut into small pieces the size of a moderate-sized walnut; cover the stewpan and place it over a fire; turn the piece of veal, in order to give it a light brown colour on both sides, sprinkle with a little salt, put in an onion with a clove stuck in it, and a bouguet garni. As soon as the veal begins to adhere slightly to the saucepan add about a pint of stock ; cover the sauce pan and let the contents simmer for thirty or forty minutes. Prepare about forty small button onions and as many pieces of carrot of the shape and size of your onions. Remove the bouquet and the onior, and put in with the veal the small onions and carrots. If there is not sufficient gravy to cook these vegetables, add a little more stock or water, cover the saucepan closely and let the contents simmer gently for thirty- five or forty minutes. Carefully take out the veal, so as not to break it, put it on a dish and place the vegetables round it. If there is too much gravy, or if it is too thin, boil it and pour over the veal. Roast Turkey. See page 213. Green Peas a la Parisienne :— Place in a saucepan your green peas (small, fresh, and newly shelled), a piece of butter, a little water, a little pounded sugar, parsley, and a few small new onions; place the saucepan over a moderate gentle fire for about half an hour ; then take away the parsley and small onions. Now add a piece-of very fresh — ~ i Tenis. 289 butter with a little flour, stir over the fire, and serve as soon as the butter is melted and_ thoroughly mixed. Bain-Marie Pudding. See page 179. aULY. Soup Maigre. Roast Beef a l’Anglaise. Salmon a la Béchamel. New Potatoes with Cream. Braised Ducklings with | Raspberry and Currant Turnips. Ice Cream. Macaroni 4 la Milanaise. Soup Maigre. See page 42. Salmon a la Béchame :— Salmon to be boiled according to instructions page 114. Béchamel (No. 136) to be served in a sauce- boat. Braised Ducklings with Turnips : — Prepare a young duck and put it in a stewpan with butter (from two to three ounces, according to the size of the duck), fry slowly, till it is of a nice brown colour all over; then remove it from the stewpan. Put in the . same butter from twenty to thirty small round turnips, cut and shaped of equal size; when they begin to colour sprinkle over them a spoonful of pounded sugar; take them out; then add to the butter a tablespoonful of flour, and stir till well mixed, then add about a pint U ee 3 290 Buckmaster’s C ookery. - of stock for a middle-size hile salt, pepper, and a bouquet garni. Return the duck to the gravy, and when it is half done put in the turnips; turn the duck Over once or twice, and be careful not to break the turnips. When cooked skim away the fat and serve very hot. Macaroni a la Milanaise :— Put into boiling water a pound of best macaroni, with a piece of butter, a little salt, and an onion with a clove stuck in it; when done, drain it over a colander; put in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of grated gruyére, and as much parmesan cheese, a very little nutmeg and pepper, three or four tablespoonfuls of cream, now add the macaroni; stir all together over a slow fire. When properly mixed, dress it on a dish in the form of a dome, and pour over a rather thick tomato sauce. Roast Beef al Anglaise. See page 207. New Potatoes with Cream :— - Boil new potatoes (see page 190). Put in a sauce- pan a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, chopped parsley, eschalots, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg ; when well mixed, add some good cream: stir until it comes to the boil ; cut the potatoes into slices, throw them into the sauce. Keep the saucepan on a slow fire for five minutes and serve. Raspberry and Currant Ice Cream. See page 263. pe eee ee AY i Menus. 291 AUGUST. Julienne Soup. Pigeons Sautés with Ts Salmon grilled 4 la Tar- matoes. tare. Roast Grouse. ‘Fillets of Beef Chateau- | Purée of Green Peas. briand. Pudding of Green Gages. fle Julienne Soup. See pages 38 and 30. Salmon grilled a la Tartare :— Prepare the salmon according to the instructions “ Broiled Salmon,” pager 5, and serve the Sauce Tar- tare In a sauce boat. . Sauce Tartare, as follows :-—Prepare some ‘‘ mayon naise,” page 104, and mix with it some tarragon, chervil, and a few spring onions and a little anchovy, all chopped finely. Fillet of Beef Chateaubriand. See ‘ Roast Sirloin,” page 207. Four or five pounds of sirloin, ora fillet of the same weight is still better. When ready, surround it witn fried potatoes. See page 193. Pigeons with Tomatoes :— Cut six good tomatoes each into four parts, press them lightly with your hand to extract the water and pips. Then prepare your pigeons and cook them as explained in the recipe ‘‘ Stewed Pigeons,” page 73. When cooked, place them on a dish, and keep them hot. Put your tomatoes into the butter in which the pigeons have been cooked; add some salt and pepper, U 2 ~ 292 Buckmaster's Cookery. and simmer for ten minutes, stir the saucepan now and then over the fire (the tomatoes must not be broken). When cooked, add a little butter (the size of a walnut), ' melt it slowly, and then pour the tomatoes over the pigeons. ) Roast Grouse. See page 211. Puree of Green Peas :— Prepare your purée (see “Green Pea Purée Soup,” page 32), but instead of stock adda piece of fresh butter, salt, and pepper. © Pudding of Green Gages, or other fresh fruit :— Line a pudding basin with suet crust rolled out to the thickness of about half an inch; fill the basin with the fruit, put in the sugar, and cover with crust. Fold the edges oyer. and pinch them together to pre- vent the juice from escaping. Tie over a floured cloth, put the pudding into boiling water, and boil — from two to two and a half hours. Turn it out of the basin, and serve quickly. i 5 SEPTEMBER, Vermicelli Sour. | Roast Capon. Fried Whitings. Tomatoes farcies a la Roast Hind-quarter of Provengale. Lamb. Pudding of Fruit. Jtgged Hare. : Xs Vermicelli Soup. See page 53. tried Whitings. See page 121. aoe i ATenus, 2903 Roast Hind-quarter of Lamb. See page 210. Jugged Flare. See page 77. Leoast Capon. See “ Roast F owl,” page 213. | Tomatoes farcies a la Provengale :— Choose six good tomatoes, take off the stalk, cut them open a little, and with a small spoon remove carefully the pips, then place them in order in a sauce- pan with two spoonfuls of good salad oil, with a little salt and pepper. Wash and peel about a pint of mushrooms, chop them very finely, dry them in a towel so as to take away all the water, mince three eschalots, a clove of garlic, and a sprig of parsley ; put these into a saucepan with a spoonful of oil, and about an ounce of butter, with a little pepper and salt ; fry them for six or seven minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon; add a spoonful of flour and one of bread raspings and constantly stir ; now add four or five spoonfuls of white wine and the same of stock, stir over the fire and let the purée reduce until it becomes thick ; fill your tomatoes with the sauce, and if you have any sauce left, pour it into the spaces between the toma- toes, and shake over some light-coloured raspings of bread; now place the saucepan over a brisk fire, hold- ing over the top a red-hot salamander for about eight or ten minutes. Dish them up carefully and serve. Pudding of Fruit. See “Apple Pudding,” page 165. 204 Buckmaster's Cookery. tet OCTOBER. Soup Bonne Femme. Omelettes with fine Herbs: Fillets of Salmon a la | Roast Pheasant. Montebello. Brussels Sprouts. Braised Leg of Mutton. Meringue Apple and Rice. + Soup Bonne Femme. See page 41. Fillets of Salmon & la Montebello :—- _ Prepare some slices of salmon, not more than two- thirds of an inch thick, cut them in the form of ovals. PO ee ee Ne Ss ee Put some butter in a fryingpan, and when warm add ay the slices of salmon, with salt and pepper. Stir into a clean saucepan five or six table spoonfuls of good stock; then add the butter in which the slices of salmon ‘have been fried, with a little chopped parsley, pre- viously blanched, a very little grated nutmeg, and the juice of alemon, Stir in the yolks of two or three eggs, drain for a minute or two the slices of salmon on a sieve; now arrange them in the form of a circle or oval on a dish and pour the hot sauce over and serve. ¥ - Braised Leg of Mutton. See page 214. wali, Omelettes with fine Herbs. See “ Plain Omelettes,” page 185. Roast Pheasant. See page 211. Brussels Sprouts, See page 196. Meringue Apple and Rue. See page 181. Menus. 295 NOVEMBER. Giblet Soup. Roast Quails. Turbot with Italian Sauce. | Purée of Turnips. Roast Rump of Beef. Salad of Oranges. Pigeon Pie. Giblet Soup. See page 50. Turbot & f [talienne :— Serve with a boiled turbot the Italian sauce (see page 137) in a sauce boat. Loast Rump of Beef. See page 207. Pigeon Pie. See page 168. Roast Quails. See page 212. Purée of Turnips :— Cut into four or six pieces half a dozen moderate- sized turnips, give them a nice and even form; then put them into boiling water for five or six minutes and drain them. Place them in a saucepan with two ounces or two ounces and a half of butter, shake them over a slow fire until they become of a light-brown colour, add a spoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a little salt, and a pint of good stock, let them simmer gently for five-and-twenty minutes; then remove the lid and place the saucepan over a brisk fire for five minutes. Dish up in good order without breaking the turnips. Salad of Oranges. See page 265. 296 Buckmaster’s Cookery. . x ¥ a Nc oe a DECEMBER. Tapioca Soup. Cutlets a la Jardinicre. Fillets of Soles a la Reine. | Roast Partridges. Roast Turkey. Purée of Chestnuts. Salmis of Pheasants 4 la | Plum Pudding. Finarcitre * Tapioca Soup :— Take two spoonfuls of tapioca to every pint of stock. When the stock is boiling add the tapioca, stirring it continually with a wooden spoon. Let it boil for about a quarter of an hour and serve. Fillets of Soles a la Reine. Seepage 119. Roast Turkey. See page 213. Salmis of Pheasant & la Financiere :— Roast a pheasant (see page 211); when it is nearly cold, cut it up at the joints, take off the skin and arrange the pieces neatly on a dish and keep it hot. Chop up the trimmings of the pheasant with a few mushrooms and a truffle if convenient, put them into a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter ; when of a light-brown colour add a glass of white wine and about half a pint of stock; simmer for a quarter of an hour, skim off the fat, and pour the sauce hot over the pieces of pheasant and serve. Lamb Cutlets & la Jardinitre. See “Mutton Cut- Alenus, 297 hg. EP lets,” page 220. See for preparation of “ Jardinieére,” ist menu, page 281. | Roast Partridges. See page 211. Pree, Cacinuis. See “ Chestnut Purée,” . rst menu, page 281. Plum Pudding :-— One pound of flour, one pound of bread crumbs, three-quarters of a pound of raisins, the same of cur- rants and suet, three or four eggs, milk, two ounces of candied peel, one teaspoonful of powdered allspice, half a teaspoonful of salt. Chop the suet very fine, stone the raisins, wash, pick, and dry the currants, mix these with the other dry ingredients, and stir all well together ; beat and strain the eggs to the pudding, stir these in, and add just sufficient milk to make it properly. ‘Tie it up ina well-floured cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for at least five hours, Pie INDEX. —$— A, ¢ Addington, manor of, 5 Anglo-Saxon, meat of, 3 principal meal of, 4 Apple, Charlotte, 182 meringue, 181 pie, 174 Asparagus, boiled, 197 peas, 285 Augustine, mission of, 3 Australian meat, croquettes of, 107 gravy soup from, 106 Julienne from, 106 lecture on, Ior soup B. Bacon and haricot beans, 223 Batter for frying, 117 Beans, French, 200 with fine herbs, 287 haricot, 223 Beef, boiled, 206 composition of, 241 . ribs of, 208 rump of, 207 sirloin of, 207 Beef a-la-mode, 83 Bouilli, 29, 206 Bouquet garni, how to make, 26 Broiling, 203 ~ Broth, Brabant, 38 how to keep, 24 mutton, 37 Broth, Scotch, 37 Brussels sprouts, 196 Butter, maitre d’hétel, 134 melted, 128 use of, 25, 28 £ wa . Cabbage, 196 Cakes, ginger, 176 plain, 175 seed, 175 Calves’ kidneys, 218 liver, 219 Canterbury, monks of, 6 Caramel, how to prepare, 23 Carrots, 197 with ham or bacon, 198 Cauliflowers au gratin, 195 boiled, 195 Charcoal, 18 Charlotte apple, 182 Russe, 183 Cheese, stewed, 83 Chestnut, purée of, 281 Chickens a la Marengo, 286 Clergy, regular and secular, 6 Coal, 18 ; Cod, boiled, 122 salt, 123 Cokes, family of the, 5 Colecannon, 199 Cooking, an experimental science, 9 early English, 1 perfection oh One French, 8 L[ndex. ; 299 : = aan Creams, ginger ice, 264 lemon ice, 264 Italian ice, 264 pine apple ice, 263 raspberry and currant, 263 strawberry ice, 261 Crust, suet, 163 Curries, 97 Curry-powder, 97 Custards, 177 Cutlets, mutton, 220 veal, 220 18 Diet of children, 87 Dress, 61 Duck, roast, 212 braised with turnips, 289 E. Eels, stewed, 71 Egg and bread-crumb, 113 Eggs, curried, 99 snow, 176. Entertainments, 6 F. Farinaceous food, 155 Fires, how to light, 17 uniform, 17 Fish croquettes, 125 selection of, 113 temperature for frying, rr2 Flour, analysis of, 241 Food, an exponent of work, 232 definition of, 239 digestibility of, 249 I economic admixture of, 249 | lecture on, 228 lecture on function of, 85 plastic, 239 summary of, 251 Fool, gooseberry, 184 Forcemeat, chestnut, 225 to prepare, 171 | Fowls, boiled, 216 curried, 98 fricasseed, 215 marinaded, 217 roast, 213 0-0 stewed, 74 Fritters, apple, 265 G, Glaze, how to prepare, 226 how to use, 227 Gluten, properties of, 244 Goose, roast, 213 Gooseberry fool, 184 trifle, 184 Gravy, 224 Grouse, roast, 2IL Guinea fowls, roast, 212 H. Hare, jugged, 77 Haricot beans, 223 Herbs, dried, 26 how to preserve, 27 Hotch-potch, 72 Houses, construction of, 13 of the working classes, 11 Hunger and thirst, 250, 251 i Ices, cherry water, 263 clarified sugar for, 262 currant, 263 ginger, 264 Italian, 264 lemon water, 263 raspberry, 263 strawberry, 261 Instructions, general, 27 for ordinary dinners, 278 BA Jardiniére, 281 Jellies, aspic, 224 calf’s foot, 259 Perquisites, 56 Sy Pheasant, roast, 211 salmis of, 296 aes _ Pie, apple, 174 giblet, 169 : Lndex. en 501 Pie, hunter's, 71 pigeon, 168 squab, 170 steak, 170 veal and ham, 171, 172 Pigeons, stewed, 73 with tomatoes, 291 Pork, 223 Potatoes, analysis of, 242 boiled, 190 new, with cream, 2g0 chips, fried, 193 croquettes, 194 mashed, 191 souffle, 193 with bacon, 192 milk, r9t onions, 194 spinach, 192 Pot-au-feu, 29 how to prepare, 30 Pudding, apple, 165 baked batter, 166 baked rice, 180 bain-marie, 179 green gage, 292 lemon, 180 lemon custard, 179 marmalade, 179 . orange custard, 178 pease, 164 plum, 297 roly-poly, 165 steak, 167 suet, 163 treacle, 165 Yorkshire, 166 Purées, 25 Quails, 212 R, Rabbits, stewed, 74 Ranges, close, 18 economy of, 18 open, 18 Reformation, great change at, 8 Rice, boiled, too Rice, Shes @, 181 pudding, baked, 180 souffle, 181 Rissoles, 173 *% Salads, 253 boiled vegetable, 255 cauliflower, 258 fish, 256 lettuce, 257 Macédoine, 254 orange, 265 potato, 258 tomato, 257 Salmon, boiled, 114 broiled, 115 fillets of, 294 Salt, spiced, 27 Sauces, | Sauces, Béchamel, 136 without meat 136 bread, 139 white, 284 Dutch, 133 fennel, 130 horseradish, 137 Italian, 137 lemon and liver, 141 ‘liver and parsley, 142 Mayonnaise, 130 green, 131 maitre d’hotel, 135 mint, hot, 135 mint, cold, 135 mushroom, 140, I4I onion, 138 oyster, 140 parsley, 130 piquant, 132, 133 remoulade, 131 tarragon, 130 Tartare, 291 tomato, 139 St. Swithin, monks of, 6 Servants, 60 Smelts, from institutions, 58 fried, 121 Snipe, roast, 283 Sole, au gratin, 117 boiled, plain, 120 Sole, baked, 116 4 : Stew, Irish, 70 : filleted, 115 *. Stock, foundation of, 21 a la reine, r19g general, 22 a la ménuise, 119 how to prepare, 21 fried, 118 how to keep, 24 Souffle, potato, 193 object of, 21 rice, 181 origin of, 29 Soup, asparagus, 45 white, 23. = bs bonne femme, 41 Stoves, charcoal, 13 _ cabbage and bacon, 47 gas, 13 Chantilly, 40 Stuffing, two kinds of, 226. colouring for, 23 Suet, crust, 163 fish, 53 Sweetbreads, 221 from remnants of joints, 40 a la jardiniére, 282 giblet, 50 . ’ green pea, 31 f purée, 32 T. haricot bean, 35 how to clarify, 24 Tarts, open jam, 174 7 Julienne, 38, 39 Tomatoes a la Provengale, 293 ‘ leek, 43 Tongue, ox, 222 4 lentil, 33-35 Tripe and onions, 81 maigre or vegetable, 25 Turbot, boiled, 120 maigre, 42, 51 Turnips, purée of, 295 marrow, 42 Turkey, roast, 213 Mulligatawny, 49 onion, 43 ox-tail, 47, 48 ; Vv. pea, 36 potato, 52 Veal, fricandeau of, 217 poor man’s, 46 a la bourgeoise, 288 Spanish, 44 minced, 78 Spanish onion, 45 roast chump of, 209 vegetable, 20, 51 loin of, 209 ie marrow, 42 neck of, 208 Vermicelli, 53 . stewed breast of, 75 > with rice, 32 Vegetables, cooking of, 189 without stock, 32 Spinach, 196 with potatoes, 192 W. Sprouts, Brussels, 196 Steak, broiled rump, 219 Whitebait, 122 stewed, 76 fried, 122 Stews, 70 Whiting, fried, raz Stew, Australian meat, 77 THE END; BRADBURY, AGNEW, & CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS, _ THE NEW COOKERY BOOK. ee = or In crown $yo, half roan, price 6s. THE NEW COOKERY BOOK: A COMPLETE MANUAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN COOKERY, On Sound Principles of Taste and Science ; COMPREHENDING CAREFULLY TRIED RECEIPTS FOR EVERY BRANCH OF THE ART. BY ANNE BOWMAN. - With Numerous Full-Page Plates, BEAUTIFULLY PRINTED IN COLOURS BY KRONHEIM THIS BOOK CONTAINS— 70 RECEIPTS ror GRAVIES anp SAUCES, 100 RECEIPTS ror Cooxinc VEGETABLES. 130 RECEIPTS ror Cooxine FISH. 300 RECEIPTS ror Cooxinc MEAT. 80 RECEIPTS ror Cooxinc GAME. 150 RECEIPTS ror Maxinc PUDDINGS, 70 RECEIPTS ror Cooxinc POULTRY. GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS, LONDON AND NEW YORK. ~ : Pd CHEAP COOKERY AND HOUSEKEEPING BOOKS, Soyer’s Cookery £aeme People. 1s. Mrs. Rundell’s Domestic Cookery. 1s. 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