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TS Se ge cie 
 
 
 
 THE 
 
 PRACTICAL COOK, 
 ENGLISH AND FOREIGN; 
 
 CONTAINING 
 A GREAT VARIETY OF OLD RECEIPTS, 
 
 IMPROVED AND RE-MODELLED; 
 
 AND MANY ORIGINAL RECEIPTS IN 
 
 ENGLISH RUSSIAN DUTCH 
 FRENCH SPANISH AMERICAN 
 GERMAN POLISH SWISS, AND 
 
 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 WITH 
 
 Copious Directions for the Choice of all JBrovistons, 
 
 THE LAYING OUT A TABLE, GIVING SMALL AND LARGE DINNERS, AND THE 
 MANAGEMENT OF A CELLAR. 
 
 BY JOSEPH BREGION, 
 
 Formerly Cook to H. E, Prince Rausmouski; to H. H, the Prince Nicholas Esterhazy ; the 
 Russian Ambassador at Paris, &c, &e, 
 
 AND 
 
 ANNE MILLER, 
 
 COOK IN SEVERAL ENGLISH FAMILIES OF DISTINCTION. 
 
 LONDON: 
 CHAPMAN AND HALL, STRAND. 
 1846. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 C. WHITING, BEA UFORT 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 ~ : Log 
 
 " +e" " e. « 
 ae z y 
 
 = 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 WE are in the matters of the kitchen no admirers of 
 the wisdom of our ancestors. Cookery is eminently an 
 experimental and a practical art. Each day, while it 
 adds to our experience should also increase our know- 
 ledge. And now that intercommunication between dis- 
 tant nations has become facile and frequent; now that we 
 may almost make a very early breakfast in London and 
 a very late dinner in Paris, it cannot be permitted that 
 cookery should remain stationary. Far are we from say- 
 ing that a dinner should be a subject of morning or mid- 
 day meditation or of luxurious desire ; but in the present 
 advanced state of civilisation, and of medical and che- 
 mical knowledge, something more than kneading, 
 baking, stewing, and boiling, are necessary in any nation 
 pretending to civilisation. The metropolis of England 
 exceeds Paris in extent and population: it commands a 
 greater supply of all articles of consumption, and con- 
 tains a greater number and variety of markets, which are 
 better supplied. We greatly surpass the French in 
 mutton, we produce better beef, lamb, and pork, and are 
 immeasurably superior both in the quantity and quality 
 of our fish, our venison, and our game, yet we cannot 
 
iv PREFACE. ‘ 
 
 compare, as a nation, with the higher, the middle, or 
 the lower classes in France, in the science of preparing 
 our daily food. The only articles of food in the quality 
 of which the French surpass us are veal and fowl, but 
 such is the skill and science of their cooks that with 
 worse mutton, worse beef, and worse lamb than ours, 
 they produce better chops, cutlets, steaks, and better 
 made dishes of every nature and kind whatsoever. In 
 Sricassées, ragouts, salmis, quenelles, purées, filets, and 
 more especially in the dressing of vegetables, our neigh- 
 bours surpass us, and we see no good reason why we 
 should not imitate them in a matter in which they are 
 perfect, or why their more luxurious, more varied, more 
 palatable, and more dainty cookery, should not be in- 
 troduced among the higher and middle classes to more 
 general notice. 3 
 
 The object of the present work is to incorporate all that 
 is good in the cookery of both nations into one volume. 
 While, therefore, the reader is presented with receipts for 
 the preparation of English soups, such as ox-tail, mock 
 turtle, giblet, hare, pea, and mutton broth, the French 
 Potages a la Reine, & la Condé, a la Julienne, and the 
 various purées are not forgotten. While, also, the prac- 
 tical cook may find copious receipts for the boiling of 
 turbot, cod-fish, John Dorey, and salmon, in the English 
 and Dutch fashion, the sturgeon cutlets of the French, 
 and their fillets and béchamels of fish are also introduced 
 to English favour and attention. In the chapters on 
 roasting and boiling full justice is done to our barons 
 of beef, our noble sirloins, our exquisite haunches, 
 saddles, legs, and loins of Southdown mutton, our 
 noble rounds of boiled beef, and those haunches of 
 

 
 
 
 PREFACE. v 
 
 British venison, the envy and admiration of the world; 
 but, on the other hand, the Gigot a4 ! Ail aux Haricots 
 blanes is sought to be made more favourably known to the 
 Englishman, as well as the Filet de Beuf, an excellent 
 every day dish in the good city of Paris. While we 
 have omitted no English receipt of approved excellence, 
 and have introduced some altogether new, we have also 
 tried to give within a reasonable compass a short system 
 of French, and a compendium of foreign, cookery. — It 
 were, no doubt, desirable that we should learn much from 
 our neighbours in white and brown sauces, in veloutés, in 
 the dressing of vegetables, in the seasoning and flavour- 
 ing with ham instead of with salt, and in a more profuse 
 use of egg’s, oil, and butter. We here direct the reader’s 
 attention to the parts of this volume in which these 
 subjects are treated. 
 
 We have long considered that a new Cookery Book, 
 pointing out the distinctive merits of the French and 
 English kitchens, was a work urgently needed. In this 
 manual of the art we have endeavoured to present the 
 reader with all that is best in the substantial solidity 
 and simplicity of the English kitchen, and all that is 
 most varied, delicate, and harmoniously combined in the 
 kitchen of the French. Both are excellent in their 
 way, and there are already many separate treatises 
 on both; but a fusion or combination of the two 
 systems has never been before attempted, that we are 
 aware of, in one volume. This desideratum it is here 
 attempted to supply; and if we succeed in causing an 
 abandonment of all that is coarse and unwholesome in 
 the English kitchen, and in introducing all that is 
 light, elegant, and varied in the French, we shall have 
 
s 
 
 VI PREFACE. 
 
 gained our object, and have done the health of diners 
 out and dinner givers some service. It is the greatest 
 mistake, in a medical point of view, to suppose that an 
 unvaried uniformity of food contributes either to health 
 or comfort. Variety is as necessary to the stomach as 
 change of scene, or change of study to the mind, and 
 that variety is in these pages ete within the reach 
 of all. 
 
 As there is mee an English family among the 
 higher or middle classes, who does not number among 
 its members a retired military or civil servant of the East 
 India Company, or a retired naval officer or commercial 
 man, it has been thought advisable to imtroduce a 
 considerable chapter on Anglo-Indian cookery. This, it 
 is thought, is the most complete system of Indian seamed 
 ever presented in a connected form. 
 
 Neither the Spanish, the Portuguese, the Russian, nor 
 the Polish cookery are deserving of general commenda- 
 tion ; but certain national dishes and soups, which have 
 obtained a more general vogue, are preserved under 
 their respective heads. Among the Dutch and German 
 receipts will be found some worthy of attention and 
 adoption. é 
 
 To say that there is much substantially new in this 
 work, would be to write its condemnation. Cookery is, 
 above all others, a traditional and practical art, and 
 unless receipts have stood the test of time, and experience, 
 and general approval, they are little worth. Cookery 
 books are, for the most part, copies of each other ; and 
 the first cookery book is only the most original, because 
 we cannot trace the plagiarism beyond the period when 
 printing was invented. But we have little dceubt, that 
 

 
 
 
 PREFACE, Vi 
 
 in the rolls of great houses, and in the muniment rooms 
 of colleges, halls, and religious establishments, would be 
 found in vellum manuscript, every receipt published in 
 the first English cookery book. And the plagiarism may 
 be tracked, as a wounded man, by his blood, from 1470 
 ‘to 1845. The compilers of all cookery books have, more 
 or less, copied the earlier compilers who preceded ; and 
 - so it must ever be, till we are foolish enough to reject all 
 experience, and trust to theory or conjecture. 
 
 The compilers of this work lay no claim to originality, 
 though there is much that is new in these pages. They 
 have availed themselves, though never servilely of the 
 labours of nearly all their predecessors, and by collation, 
 comparison, addition, retrenchment, and the exercise of 
 their own skill, experience, and discoveries, have endea- 
 voured to improve on works already in print. 
 
 To the Proprietors of the ‘“ Magazine of Domestic 
 Economy,” they are very grateful, for the permission 
 accorded them to publish such cookery receipts as they 
 deemed worthy of a place in this volume. Of this per- 
 mission they have availed themselves, in extracting some 
 excellent receipts; and they have also, on two or three 
 occasions, availed themselves of some brief receipts by 
 the author of the articles on Cookery in the “ Magazine 
 of Domestic Economy,” which have appeared in a sepa- 
 rate shape in an excellent little work called the “ Hand- 
 Book of Cookery,” published by Messrs. Orr and Co., 
 which has already, and deservedly, reached a third 
 edition. 
 
 Among the French masters in the science we have pro- 
 fited by the labours of all the greatest authorities, from 
 Vatel and La Chapelle down to Grimod de la Reyniére, 
 
Vill PREFACE. 
 
 Beauvilliers, Ude, Caréme, and Plumeret; but receipts of 
 more general utility for the public at large, will be found 
 
 compiled from the Cuisiniér Royal and the Cuzsiniére 
 Bourgeoise, 
 
 Many of the receipts of Caréme are adopted with al- 
 terations and additions, and some are given in their 
 entirety in an English dress ; but of Caréme’s Cookery 
 the distinguishing characteristic is profuse expenditure. 
 In order to render such a system not merely easy of adop- 
 tion, but possible to adopt at all, men-cooks, splendid 
 establishments, and colossal fortunes must become much 
 more universal than they ever have been or ever can be. 
 
 Our object has been, not to render the introduction of 
 French Cookery difficult and expensive, but easy, and 
 within the reach of persons of moderate fortune, 
 
 The present age is distinguished as an age of progress, 
 and sure we are, that the improvements we suggest in 
 these pages will be generally adopted before the year 
 1850. 
 
 The chapter on Wines and Wine Cellars, and the re- 
 marks on Coffee and Liqueurs will, it is hoped, be found 
 generally useful. | 
 

 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 RULES NECESSARY TO BE OB- 
 SERVED BY Cooks IN 
 THE REGULATION AND 
 MANAGEMENT OF THEIR 
 
 TLARDER ....... AN een 
 OBSERVATIONS AS TO UN- 
 DRESSED MEATS....... ee 
 
 Breer—Ribs, Rump, Brisket. 
 
 Veat—Leg, Loin, Shoulder, 
 
 Neck, and Breast......... 
 
 . Murron—Chine, Leg, Neck, 
 
 Shoulder, Breast......... 
 
 LAMB 
 
 Porx—Leg, Neck, and Loin 
 
 Venison — Haunch, Neck, 
 Shoulder, and Breast... 
 
 OR IPRYG settee isdieGhra.cssenss 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE 
 KITCHEN AND ITS UTEN- 
 Oe oh oe pa or wate 
 
 DrIREcTIONS FoR TRUSSING... 
 —— Turkey, for Boiling..... 
 Roasting............ 
 —— Poults, Goose............. 
 — Ducks, Fowls, Chickens 
 —— Wild Fowl, Pigeons for 
 Roasting and for Pies... 
 —— Woodcocks, Snipes, 
 
 eee 
 
 
 
 LLarks, Wheatears, Phea- . 
 
 sants, Partridges, and 
 Moor Game......... Beco 
 OBSERVATIONS ON, AND Dr1- 
 RECTIONS FOR, CARVING 
 
 ib. 
 15 
 
 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Terms for carving all Sorts 
 of Meat at table............ 16 
 
 Names of the several Joints 
 served up to Table....... 17 
 — Leg of Mutton............ 18 
 — Shoulder of Mutton..... ib. 
 — Leg of Pork............... ib. 
 
 —— Edge, or Aitch Bone of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BCC reese or cdsaneds Consens ib. 
 — Saddle of Mutton........ 19 
 — Breast of Veal, roasted ib. 
 —— Spare-rib of Pork........ ib. 
 — Half a Calf’s Head, 
 
 POCO cts caaeaes «ke deect ib. 
 Sa Oil 6 i215 3 May hel Uehara 20 
 — Haunch of Venison...... ib. 
 — Haunch of Mutton...... ib. 
 — Ox’s Tongue...........06 ib. 
 
 Part of a Sirloin of Beef ib. 
 
 — Buttock of Beef.......... 21 
 — Fillet of Veal............. ib. 
 
 Fore Quarter of Lamb 
 
 FORSICO | AE. eee ev ed aes ib. 
 Roasted Pig. s..:i.ci.seis ib. 
 FIBER i osnstes eset ae 22 
 Rabbite. Lian aces tccsiees ib. 
 ——— GOS... sssvevescecscccees ib. 
 — Green Goose ....... Miser 3: 
 —— Pheasant .........cccceeee ib. 
 Partridge. fiiiakceceses ib. 
 ——— Fow] .i.ricccccscccessceees ib. 
 —— Turkey ...iccscccccceeees 24 
 PIZEGUS sh stviesss beeen ib. 
 
x CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE. 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING 
 Cod’s Head 
 
 Ceovceceesecsvees 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAGE, 
 
 Dinner of Three Courses, 
 with Cheese Course and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 — Boiled Salmon............ “ib. | “Desseric. x./. wusseermrdiees 
 
 —— Soles.........scessesscevvees 25 Bills of Fare for Plain Fa- 
 
 wm. CIS 555s Sone vtnnacie cascaes ib. mily Dinners.............0+ 
 
 On Laying out a Table ...... ib.| Terms in use in the Kit- 
 
 Of Bills of Fare: .....0cssesere, 28 chen....... otesasareesessouens 
 
 FISH. 
 
 How to choose Fish of dif- Meat.—How to choose Veal 
 ferent-inds <..50 <5 eséesess 43 POTK oc capecgesssenaeert 2 ; 
 
 —— Lamfrey5S........scercesees 49 | —— Bacon and Ham......... 
 
 — Red Mullet ............... ib. | Pouttry.—A Hen............. 
 
 — Pilchards..............0066 5O | —— GEESE .......ccrecsrecvecees 
 
 —— Whitebait ..............0. ib. |} —— Wild Ducks............... 
 
 cement EPRICE. 5 Seles ese cntssohsrn ss ib. | —— Tame Ducks.............. 
 
 — Flounders...............++. ib. | —— Partridge..............s00e 
 
 —— Herrings..............00008 ib. ING 582 eacksdasoissecauese 
 IACHATEL consataetcatees ins ib. | —— Turkey.......0.0.00000 ee, 
 TsODStery so ceessaweoten cheer ib. FORDE ook scsiv ns tw eea savas 
 
 -—— John Dorey...........0+6: 51 | —— Hare and Leveret ies 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS AS TO — Bustard..............0000 
 BormiInG AND SERVING —— Heathcock and Hen... 
 SUSE Go ccacseti apace napeeet ib. |} —— Wheatears ...........0006 
 
 To make Fish firmer in —— Pheasant............0sss00e 
 Boiling 2 esti ss eeesseeecanee ib. | —— Pigeons ..........0... Paes 
 
 To keep Fish hot for Table... ib. | ——- Woodcock.......... eee 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR THE CHOICE Capotis.. i. .1a@tsiccuses vos 
 OF PROVISIONS .....0ces008 52 | —— Cock .....ccceccecsccseeseees 
 
 Meat.—How to choose Beef ib.| How to choose Eggs, But- 
 
 —— Mutton and Lamb...... 53 ter, and Cheese......... “85 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON Spring Soups. scamenties cess 
 Enciish Soups AND Gardener’s Soup (@ la Jar- 
 BRoTHS, AND DIREc- CintOe) Saas senaotenas doas« 
 TIONS CONCERNING THEM 62 | Rice Soup........c..se.eeees = 
 
 Qn Beef Juice. <.¢:..ssssases ten 69 | Cabbage Soup.........ssseseeee 
 
 Common Beef Stock (Grand Autumn SOUP. Gas cssseere eee 
 Tsquillon) ors. 55 +cassnesuaniess 0| Mock Turtle Soup............ ; 
 
 Blond de Veau (Brown Another Mock Turtle Soup. 
 Essence of Veal),......... ib. | Superior Mock Turtle Soup. 
 
 Of Real Le DOU. «sages 71 from M. Ude.. 
 
 giro OLED E eatinensiesansrne 74| West Indian method of dress- 
 
 Leveret ae aah: dh sasbueseRiaeune 77 ing Turtle;j;,..sevumaeeeens 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup..........000 78 | Mock Turtle with Cow-heel.. 
 
 6-28 
 
 30 
 40 
 
 83 
 84 
 

 
 
 
 CONTENTS. xi 
 PAGE, PAGE. 
 _ First Stock, or Grand Con- Potage de Santé, with Onions. 95 
 SMEAR epee csi dhstokcesds. 84 | A Soup with Hop-Tops ...... 96 
 Pot au Feu de Maison, or Citizen’s SOUP. cssisvevedesctges ib. 
 Broth Restorative........ PING OM Lesouccvereacseentes® 97 
 Clear Gravy Soup...........0+ ib. | Mutton Cutlet Soup ........... ib. 
 The old Scotch Brown Soup. 86 | Chesnut Soup ..............0s00. ib. 
 A good Gravy Soup........... Bis WICE! OOUL ssa ces oatneebedecaneue 98 
 PRUrI ICY SOU Stes. s.ckiescedicctes 87 (:Macaront Soup ss2..cgasssenl.s ib. 
 Another Giblet Soup......... ab. LA Cheap SOUP a; -s0o0d thas 500 ib. 
 Bree OUT eter cuir ss secsecasas 88 | Observations on Fish Soups. ib. 
 _Amoreelaborate GameSoup ib. | Fish Broth...............cceseceee 99 
 PRELATS OUD fei co ccaxtccocncnescecss ist Chyster: SOUP i351 cscccsawercvtielss ib. 
 _ Another Hare Soup............ 89 | Stock for Fish Soup............ ib. 
 [RRABDUE OUD sc. .crceecsesccescees $s) BOGE SOUP, js cose ie tasdve se sews tese 100 
 
 _ Of White Soups in general... ib.| To make Potage for one or 
 _ White Stock for Soups and two Persons.,.........0006 ib. 
 | NIAUICES Sieg sce nctessecocsees 90 | To clarify Broth or Gravy... ib. 
 | Ox-head Soup .........ccsssseee ib. | To make Soup Maigre........ ib. 
 Ox-cheek Soup.............0s00. 91 | Common Broth Maigre........ 101 
 VRAIN EAI SOUP. -cecseensdsiidcasace ib. | Scotch Barley Broth........... ib. 
 | Vegetable Soup .............8000 92 | Chicken Broth...............006 ib. 
 _ A Purée of Vesabaple SGD 10.) BCCE Brothic, cc. sccoeseccscaecs sda 102 
 | eGreen Pea-Soup ............5... 93 | Barley Broth. ...........s0900 ib. 
 _ Another Green Pea-Soup ... ib. | Veal Broth..............csceeeeee ib. 
 PRELULHID OUD... seciowediiee slaves $b; | Scotch: Broth cicccicdeesvesvevnrs’s ib. 
 _ A cheap Carrot Soup ......... 94 Pectoral Chicken Broth ...... ib. 
 | Another Carrot Soup......... i. Portable SOUP. 05. siecaessexcesee 103 
 
 PRPOINIP SOUPsi«c0cecdsrcrenceesece ib.| A Broth for the Sick for 
 | ‘Cabbage Soup......0....0-...00 ib. DrCakfast.. is. ssceceszhcnss ib. 
 PERERA SOUL, forektulaciaxscasveee ib. | A cheap Mutton Broth....... ib. 
 [MOMION, SOUL cis: Sa cavinesascses 95 | A cheap Veal Broth ........... 104 
 ' Onion oy (English) tr cxsuiae ib.| Beef Tea for the Sick......... ib. 
 _ Another Onion Soup.......... ib. | Mutton Broth .......ccsccseseas ib. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 | OBSERVATIONS AS TO DRESS- To dress Turbots with a 
 ENG BUSH Coo Sake scene 0 oe 105 Parsley Sauce .........60¢ 09 
 WW EO OED CL ULDObeo asc sser'ccess veers 106 | To boil Mackarel.............++ ib. 
 | —— Salt Cod or Ling......... ib.| “Fo hol Herrings <5 ch. ib. 
 | Observations relative to all Vo boil Salmonecyccss da. 110 
 sorts of Fish Sauces...... 107 | To dress Salt Cod..........s000 ib. 
 _ To choose Anchovies ......... 108 | Cod Sounds boiled...........+8 ib. 
 } The most approved and To Broil Cod Sounds........... ib. 
 | fashionable Method of Cod Sounds Ragoit............ ib. 
 dressing a Turbot in the Fish in the English Fashion ib. 
 English manner .......... ib. | To keep Fish fresh ............ 112 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 xil CONTENTS. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 How to choose Salt Fish...... 112 | To stewCodtch ares 127 
 Newfoundland Cod-fish ib. | —— Eels ...............ccecs00es 128 
 Red Herrings............. 113 | To dress White Bait........... ib. 
 — Pilchards............s00006 ib. | ‘Fo stew Cedyea ie ss.se.e 129 
 —— ANCHOVIES.........cecee00s ib. | —— Cod’s Head and Shoul- 
 m= — CYADS ....ccccccccosccosecees ib. Oras. AM node teens cranes ee ib. 
 —— Lobsters......cccecsceceeves ib. | —— Shrimps.i. 0c, oieeeesicss ib,4 
 Praweke os Se eee 114 PEAWRS:..3.. cra eee ib. 
 —— Shrimps........c0ccsececeee ib. Craw-fisliin, i ticccrscsetes ib. 
 —— Muscles ........cccccceeees ib. | Fricassée of Cod............0006 130 
 —— Cockles............cseeceeee ib. | To stew Lampreys........ .... ib. 
 How to clean Fish....,.....0.+ ib. Carp yiveoResineeae tae ib. 
 —— Salt Fish <......i.c.c.c000- 117 | To stew Lobsters in the Trish 
 How: to eure Mish: issues 118 WHY: cchcvuevavasusares bateesene 131 
 Court Bouillon for boiling Stewed fillet of Sole............ ib. 
 BUSI i543 Shas sient onc eesteees ib. | To dress Cod-fish left the day 
 OBSERVATIONS ON BOLLING betere.. Fiissceriage easter ib. 
 MOBBELS Mtoe es. Meee aes 119| On Fryinc anp Broiine 
 To Boil Salt Fish.........:..... 121 BUSH issligtss eee ee 132 
 —— Béchamel Turbots....... ib. Directions for, 1007 ian ib. 
 —— Turb0t......cccsecceceseees 122 | To broil Large Cod..........:. ib. 
 To Dress Salmon with a ——. LING... eee e ec cccee see ees ib. 
 Craw-fish Cullis ......... ib. | —— Haddocks ....\.......0.06 ib. 
 Salmon (as served at the —— Herrings .... .......cc000 133 
 table of George III.)..... 123 | —— Pilchards............00000 ib. 
 Mackarel (as served at Wind- —— Red Mullet............... ib. 
 SOV Sectvizedt acts ib. | To dress Red Mullet .......... ib. 
 another mode ............ ib. | —— White Bait ............... 134 
 To boil Salmon,..0d0i. 2225. ib. | To broil Mackarel............. ib. 
 —— Fresh Salmon, or to —— Mackarel whole.......... ib. 
 make Salmon Cutlets... 124 | To fry Herrings ...........0.. 135 
 The Donegal Pickle for Sal- To broil Herrings.....0..cces008 ib. 
 MON Geatsesddsserheer ee ib. | —— Haddocks ............00008 ib. 
 To boil a Cod’s Head and To fry Lampreys...iv. <s.¥.»- ib. 
 Shoulders... accssedanee 125 | Broiled, Salmon.,..5escec0 4.05045 136 
 persiven LIN SY... accsusvapnncedeecten 126 | ——-"Prouts ieee hs aere sashes ib. 
 PPPAWils. 6 scsssascegsk aes ib. Trouts with Mushrooms 137 
 MIYEDSuk, cco ssnectaee ies ib. | Trouts dressed ina stew-pan ib. 
 eon Cpa ys, ee evetes tossecseae ib. | Fillets of Mackarel broiled... ib. 
 em, LODSEOLS: «cise ives sive ib. | To fry fillets of Mackarel... 138 
 ae Crawrlisha che sutdsceoaet ib. | To fry or broil Mackarel...... ib. 
 Brills.... vwcsnciocene eae ib. EromtyiRkt te ib. 
 a PIA CC .s sc neiss on tet ere ib. Gray le. ciidsdsarescvee ib. 
 To dress Cod Sounds like ——— Perch Joke sietssmeore GR 
 little Turkeys... ..tsys..s1e. 10. | —-— PenGlnesss seasneeee eevee ee ib. 
 On Stewing Fish............... 127 | —— Smelts.veccn idles ib. 
 To stew Sturgeons,............ ib.| Fried crimped Cod............. ib. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CONTENTS, xiil 
 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Broiled Mackarel....... can Heel leish) Pies. sivdsawieees) pieces 144 
 To dress Red Herrings ...... 139 | Buttered Lobster............... ib. 
 —— Another fashion......... ib.| To ragotit Salmon .........000 ib. 
 _—— the Pilchard ............. ib. | To scollop Shrimps............ ib. 
 BO 16y, WRIA: .vcsnersiedsaesas ib. | Lobster scolloped........... suse, 145 
 _ Fillets of Roaches with sweet To dress a Crab cold.......... ib. 
 isl ete ae es ib.| To pickle undressed Salmon _ ib. 
 
 | RoAstIneG AND BAKING ...... 140 COId. Salmon, ssisdscasees so ib. 
 To roast Sturgeon.............. ib. |—— Mackarel...............+6. 146 
 
 BRHCS LOFy GICLO io cn usesisnaiens vss ib.| —— Turbot......... Pa a ib. 
 
 To roast large Eels or Lam- EEOWE Wiss caseant ee ib. 
 preys, with a Pudding in —— Mullet ..............cceeeee ib. 
 PO TIO sad sans roissxingiic’s ss Dim Cd oo 255 0 ca wdniiclns Foc uign as ib. 
 
 Soles dressed with sweet 2 eS Son aR So ee ib. 
 LS ae 141 Oysters; inane} sbancedstses ib. 
 
 Another fashion to dress OBSERVATIONS ON BRAIZES 
 Red Mullets.............+06 ib. IN GENERAL icis ieeach <n ib. 
 
 ScoLLopine, Patties, &c ib. | A Braize to dress Beef........ ib. 
 
 BRO ORUEN GD ores k sensors sess 142 Mutton, or any other 
 _Scollops of Lobster in the WEGAG oy sasog nets nvencslesiue die ib. 
 ee Se nee ib. | A white Braize..............000. 147 
 — of Oysters.......... cae eames 143 | —— of seasoning Spices...... ib. 
 | Small Oyster Patties.......... ib.| OBSERVATIONS ON POELEs IN 
 Lealad Of Soles? cssceressesises seid GENBERAT) Wo2, coli ease vets ++ ib 
 SAUCES. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO Green or Sorrel Sauce......... 154 
 ALL SORTS OF FISH AND For Celery Sauce, when Ce- 
 OTHER SAUCES ..........4. 149 lery is not in Season..... ib. 
 
 Sauces, Essences, and Condi- Celery Sauce for boiled Fowls 
 TCS oa ca ccc Bidiao i wecneveeis ib. and ‘Turkeysisss.. sss. ib. 
 
 MON SAEOC soles ccd tbas ives »«ss ib.| Brown Celery Sauce........... ib. 
 
 BPMCCL SAU COS i hiime lbs csss00s BaD oRalot Sauces; .vivvcdesvecscvess ib. 
 
 AMON SAUCE... .06.Fivases.c esses BGS WING, DAUCE.ehenscenaces obeesce 155 
 
 Fish Sauce, without Butter... -ib. | White Sharp Sauce............ ib. 
 
 The old Currant Sauce for Green Mint Sauce.............. ib. 
 DP AIR OM ieee cs seve canta. «s 151 | Sauce for cold Fowl or Par- 
 
 Tomata Sauce ...........0c0eees ib. EXIGE. cvncstos ueveiees. ib. 
 NPMOCHEL, ICEG. Gi. .oe.. coer anes. ib. | A very fine Mushroom Sauce 
 
 Sauce for Wild Duck ......... 152 for Fowls or Rabbits.... ib. 
 
 — Teal or Wild Geese..... ib. | Fennel and GooseberrySauce 156 
 
 Bread Sauce (2) ..c.se00ss00e ... ib.| Sage and Onion, or Goose- 
 
 _ Sauce for Fish Pies............ 153 stuffing Sauce.............. ib. 
 
 Oyster Sauce for Fowl or Ta SAGs she scsessssotceads ib. 
 pe eae ates y se cs xp we ib. | Sweet Sauces........csccecsesece ib. 
 
 Seasoning for Goose .........+ ib. | Truffle Sauce...... BS pten Oe Lye 
 
 Sauce for Green Goose........ 154] Rice Sauce ........secseesseseeees ib. 
 

 
 
 
 xiv CONTENTS. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Mushroom Sauce...........0.0+ 157 | Sauce a la Waleshyssne 163 
 To melt Butter with Cream. ib. | Horse-radish Sauce .. . 164. 
 Parsley and Butter............ ib. | Lobster: fawmee ter rccscssee ib. 
 Method of preparing Salad Another Gittorisfiasstkes sass ib. 
 DUCE. eseveh cay navereaeneee ib. | To make Oyster Sauce........ ib. 
 Lobster Sauce.....ssscsseesesees 158 | Superior Oyster Sauce........ 165 
 Gockle ‘Satice,?. i. 22) Giveaastes ib. | Receipt for Provengaie........ ib. 
 Parsley and Butter (another Sauce Superlative ........0..+8- ib. 
 WAY ten sithenudedenetenes ib. | Relish for Chops ...........000 166 
 Fennel Sauceii.. sivsceccsceossse ib. | Salad Samee $:,s52., steerer es ib. 
 Shrimp Sauce ...........cceeeee ib.| White Sauce for Fillets of 
 Anchovy Sauce........ Peo} 159 Maglearolic5 tec csskns hes ib. 
 Sauces for aPig....c.tssccccees ib. | Chervil Sauce....5:.5....css006 ib. 
 Oyster Sauce iis icc vsesseoeiees ib. | A Cullis for Ragotts and all 
 Sauce for Cold Fowl or Game 160 rich SaUuC@S:25.sincsgrees ses 167 
 FOP: TIAVCs Lo ectsbenet dees ib. | OBSERVATIONS ON GRAVIES, 
 for: Venison... an: ib. &oiy Ree eee ib. 
 White Sauce, or French Gravy made with Roots... A 168 
 Melted Butter............ ib. | Brown Gravy for Lent........ ib. 
 Melted Butter ..i..c.dsccesseee ib. | Egg Sauce for Salt Cod...... ib: 
 Sauce for Boiled Turkey ..... 161 | Lemon Sauce..............0c000 ib. 
 Caper. Saute. 25.0.0 ib. | A Sauce of Seville Oranges... 169 
 Sauce for boiled Mutton...... ib. | Fennel Sauce.............+ Seeact die 
 Caper Sauce for Fish ......... 162 | Horse-radish Sauce............ ib. 
 Grill Sancei\. os, niisere cas ib. | A brown Onion Sauce......... ib. 
 Shalot Saueensc.50.etsevee santas ib, | Onion Sauce. -ntece os cae 170 
 Garle Sauce. .i.:.yivicsvsensctun ib. | Sauce for Light Puddings.... 171 
 Sauce for Wish... 3.05.5. caceess ib.:| Currant Saucess52; s<cssssnece eee ib. 
 Cream Sauce for Hare......... 163:| A Fruitssancesiies.ecereee eek ib. 
 Wordsworth Sauce .........+6 ib. | Sauce for Cabinet Pudding... ib. 
 Celery Sauce Purée............ ibs\| Pudding, SauCe.secesedssenste cas ib. 
 Pindar. Sauce. j...s. secs esa ib. 
 MEATS. 
 OBSERVATIONS ON MEAT IN Haunch of Mutton............. 175 
 GENERALS cccvosceiesagpeses 172 | Chine or Saddle of Mutton... 176 
 Day Bey 9 Sa NAL AEA > ib. | Leg of Mutton, roast ......... ib. 
 Mutton joecnesisss scaeapessaveaks ib. | Roast Shoulder of Mutton... ib. 
 POV ii teagavedsset ine aeaes ae 173 | Loin of Mirtteaie)-s-.cae oa. 177 
 OBSERVATIONS ON RoasTING ib. | Neck of Mutton................ ib. 
 Swioin .of Beet -..issasssasumens 174 | Breast of Mutton............... ib. 
 Bibs Of Beef... .o..s oka ib. | Roast House Lamb............ ib. 
 Hillet-of Beef.......:...0saenesey 175 | Fore-Quarter of Lamb........ ib. 
 Billet'of “Veal.3; <i, ccemtes ieee ib. | Chine or Saddle of Lamb..... ib. 
 AsO OF V CAL... 3s1cc>.contyeaeae ib. | Leg of Lamb’... -.ccmeuss aeeeets ib. 
 NECK OL V Gal... atekseee eae ib.| Shoulder of Lamb...........+ ib. 
 Loin of Veal(Chump end)... ib.} Loin of Lamb ..........s060 eee ib. 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 
 
 . PAGE. PAGE. 
 iemeok of Lamb-..)iics...seic00- 177 | To clarify Suet to fry with 185 
 feasrenst.of -Lamb..;......s..0s00e the Otb forfryinge: tod. uiveces cls 186 
 _ To roast a Sucking Pig...... 178 | MiscELLANEOUsS RECEIPTs IN 
 q Leg of roast Pork.............. ib. STEWING, MINcING, 
 Peaeriskkint Of -POFK...24ic..ése00008 179 ROASTING, 866s .0.4:500000's ib. 
 Me ane- Of POrKy coe ..c.4..0cte0s. ibe: Oiled Buttery /.as.ss.hcccses 0095 ib. 
 Spare-rib of Pork.............. ib. | Clarified Butter..........205.00. ib. 
 BEI OF POLK... .5.5scecccesdssess ib. | To dress Cheese ............0005 187 
 ESOL ING 00900 scr cssseelsdsscccnes 180 | Tomata Devil ............ HAS ib. 
 | Aitch-bone of Pega nt., LS POEM AP 515 20.15 0e- cyte vadens ss ib. 
 | Half a Round of salted Beef ib. | Hotch-Potch..............0..s0008 188 
 Meee. OF MUttON ss. 5.4 6ccicess cs ib.|To make Irish Stew, or 
 f Neck of Mutton................. ib. Hunter’s Pie ...........00 ib. 
 | Leg of Lamb boiled, the Loin Another ditto0.40.00 AROS ib. 
 . fried, and Spinach Keath 182 | Meat and Vegetable, a la 
 | Knuckle of VOCAL iias se iiveces ib. Wealker si ceJecd tease ene ib. 
 | Pickled Leg of Pork........... ipo, Mince Beeler... ib. 
 Mer ackled Pork .20. 51 ciececssseeses ib. ; Tendrons of Veal............... 189 
 Her ODO Bacon. s......00..2..0000 183 | A Leg of Mutton with Gar- 
 i) Chine of Bacon...........sec.e0s ib. MOS As ce etnias s betoutes ib. 
 HELO GTESS & HaM.....cccscssecses ib. | A cold Hare or Rabbit Pie, 
 MMEROTLING «cecccsccsssrccsseessce ib. boned or unboned ........ 190 
 | Chops or Steaks ............... ib.| A cold Pie of Partridges, 
 MEE OL CHOPS. sisscssececcecceses 184 VORB OL ON, es secsslia ses ib. 
 UaAMD Cutlets.........s.cccreeeee ib. | Pies of Poultry or Game...... 191 
 | Lamb Chops, with Tomata To pot Partridges.............. ib. 
 | BAO estat cree eyecasesene Alte) SHUT ENG ciisoc. we segeutewstts ib. 
 PRPC INS ss eVesroddaiecaescveneses PR LLBITOWAE 16 % 50s Sa beetteks cine ce 192 
 | To clarify Drippings.......... PSOne Pia OOS Le se ond os ton sad ib. 
 _ToprepareFatforfrying Fish ib. | Blanc for Vegetables ......... ib. 
 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 _ DireEcTIons For RoasTING Woodcocks, Snipes, and Plo- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 AND Bortine Pouttry, VEER isaena ceesenei ser cevasteos 196 
 i CAMB BCL Hida Sisidete es 193 | Larks and Thrushes........... ib 
 PL ET OOSCs ngr oetdtsaigv ese setoveees 194| Wild Ducks, Wild Geese, 
 Stuffing for Hare or Turkey ib. Widgeon, and Teal...... ib. 
 | Green Goose roasted........... 195 | Tokeep Game, &c. ............ 197 
 _ Tossed Fowl or Chicken...... ib.| To keep Venison or Hare 
 ' To Fatten Fowls or Chickens SWECE Li ccvesnnsse ero ettves ib. 
 in four or five days...... ib. | To roast Wild Fowl............ 198 
 | Partridges and Pheasants ... 196 apie lsdrceieedss ib 
 _ Guinea-fowls and Pea-fowls ib. Dressed Plovers......... ib. 
 | Quails and Lapwings......... ib. Grouse and Moorcocks 199 
 RS LE ei ci su yee ncice cone ib. | —— Moor Game..........s000¢ ib. 
 
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 xvi CONTENTS. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 To roast Pheasants and A Batter for roast Hare...... 205 
 Partridges, :.siso0casaws dase 200 | A Salmi of cold Game......... ib. 
 Capon, stuffed with Roasted Woodcocks ........2+++ 207 
 ALTUEICS cccueas svg ceeons’ ib. | To dress Wheatears ........ +. 208 
 OW]... cecaas aes sadibeiploaes ib. | Hashed Fowl. ,...sveteausscevenss ib. 
 To roast Wild Ducks ......... 201 | Scollops of Fowls with Cu- 
 Saliidof Howls....,1sssswaeses ib. CUMDETS ..,,s0s000 iestahchede ib. 
 (kite <2) aa eerrp per re Ee ib. | Boiled. GQOS86 3.20<0ss0-eesncrs see 209 
 Turkey Poults and other Fowl with the Flavour of 
 Poulet y. 55 v-seps tener saectee ib. Game....... bu sia Nasweiankee ib. 
 Turkeys, Capons, ee cdl &c. 202| A roast Fowl with Green 
 Capon or Fowls to roast . ib. W ahinitts ¢icccccaduexekney hevie 2 
 To roast Game............ weeeee ib.| A Fowl with large Onions... 210 
 MOT0ast Fare... ec sssueatevies 203| A roasted Fowl with Ches- 
 Roast Hare (another method) 204 NULES. 06 vesenscsbeaehverione every 2D. 
 JUGHCH FLAKE «.50sccpaveses vane ced ib. | A Woodcock Pie.. eiecdoe tion tees ib. 
 Stuffing for roast Hare........ 205 A Partridge Pies si Jia race acne 211 
 PUDDINGS. 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON A good Pudding’ ..i.....0..s3s0. 219 
 PUDDINGS ... Msi wea us oe 212.) Cake Pudding-3 5. Aistcssssaen- ib. 
 —— on baking Puddings ... 213 | A Rice and Fruit Pudding... ib. 
 Vermicelli Pudding............ 214 | Semolina Pudding............ «- 220 
 Cabinet Pudding ............... ib. | Another Semolina Pudding.. ib. 
 Cheap Pudding, <<..0%..nesce tee ib.| A plain Semolina Pudding, 
 Lemon Dumplings ............. 215 baked ov ..:.000¢ ps epennp alone ib. 
 Cheese Pudding .............00 ib.| To make a rich Semolina 
 PSOE DAGIN GE... accep eceden ib. Pudding, baked........... 221 
 Rice Puddiog sos... +.2s.snnseate ib. | To make a boiled Semolina 
 inn Padduig <3... sacar ib. Padding oyiiscniss seas ib. 
 aeol Puddifig®-,..0. saaceizenss pe 216| To make a rich Semolina 
 Bread-and-Butter Pudding... ib. Pudding, steamed........ ib. 
 Marrow Pudding............... ib. | Sauce for light Puddings...... 232 
 Yorkshire Pudding under A Semolina Cake...... ae weaaee ib. 
 roast, Meat... csccccreaceies ib. | Potato, Pudding, so; ddsvecsssase ib. 
 Bread-and-Butter Pudding Baked Apple Pudding......... ib. 
 (another way) .........0.. 217 | Orange Pudding ...........+06. 223 
 Nutmeg Pudding............... ib.| Cumberland Puddings......... ib. 
 Brandy Pudding................ ib.| A rich Plum Pudding......... ib. 
 Tapioca Pudding............. ib. | Another rich Plum Pudding. ib. 
 The “ Bakewell,” or Derby- hapieee Pudding (another 
 shire Pudding Leabels doe aaah 218| 2) Way )tenpdeeeoeke lees ae os ib. 
 A plain Lemon Pudding...... ib. Cabinet Pudding (another 
 Dr. Kitchener’s Pudding...... ib. WAY) sane needle» tack tie tig ib. 
 Ratafia Pudding............0000 219 Cottage Puddings. isidsekicss ib. 
 
CONTENTS. XV1i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 
 Fricassée of Eggs ............... 224 | Geufs a fe Neige, or Snow 
 Poached Hggs......... Baek recs f ib. DOM tered cceondere tines sos 226 
 Eggs in Chemise .............. ib. | Eggs (ep anionee S way).. 227 
 —— on the Dish............... ib. | —— with Sorrel ............... ib. 
 Buttered Hggs............ eaiaexs Se MCOLCH TISOS |... + sche nserby rece ib. 
 Eggs fried with Bacon......... ib. | Eggs with Celery......... fates. 20, 
 To es a hasty Dish of PVA OME. oo cn scesonever ys 228 
 ~ nae 226 | Eggs with Lettuce.............. ib. 
 To fae Rees with Sausages... ib. With HNGIVE 5... 0s.205508 229 
 
 SAVOURY PIES. 
 An excellent Gravy for Sa- Baked Bream... <s3))4,0135+< 231 
 ORION G REG csescce sy civei'es 230 1: Misekerel Pie 155.42 .a4jees sie: ib. 
 LO OG ie Ee See ee ee ib. | Cyrus Redding’s Leek Pie... ib. 
 Turnip and Potato Pie........ ib. } Leek and Apple Pie ........... ib. 
 POLITE UGLY. ccoxecrscesspes hig Ee kisi) hae sg | arene eee Pore are ib. 
 A Hoggan (Cornish Dish)... ib.| Parsley Pie ............c.ceeee ees ib. 
 Conger Pie......... Se ee 231 
 POTTING, CURING, &c. 
 
 To pot little Birds.............. 232 | Tongue with Parmesan ...... 239 
 Potted Veal......... ve Aan ib. | Pickled Tongue, glazed........ 249 
 BRAC MOE Ln r rinses pabederess. ab,,} poasted Ham ........scavsess 0. i ib. 
 FOr POLtNG BEET... . csccsceee goo ro pickle Pork. cscs pecetacde ib. 
 
 MCATION ECOL ce ccncsesparsesesees 233 | Pickle for Pork which is to 
 Wor Curins Ham..:.....060..-++ ib. be eaten soon .........- res 0% 
 PAVEECOM IAS Sens senswes cons sgse ib. | To collar Beef .............0.000 241 
 Another Mutton Ham........ ib. | Pork Sausages ......,.ussc0cee ib. 
 Pork Hams, scalded............ 234 | Black Puddings toh ne Sete ib. 
 PP RMAGEG RG et ec ess yi exSss ssa seceee ib. | Receipt to make a Ham...... 242 
 PCW POU OTK rei. coe cececon yess ib. | Ham with Madeira............ 243 
 MLO GLOSS TFACOR.. cbccsecsseceeee ib. | Brighton hunting Beef........ ib. 
 
 To dress & Ham...........0...0+ 235|To preserve Meat without 
 Mie COT Jo. csc ses ss eee ee ib. Ee Ce area teucges oa 244 
 
 Hams, Bacon, 'Tonaues, To restore tainted Game or 
 SAUSAGES, &C. .......c0005 237 other Meat: : 6700.04.73... ib. 
 Po pickle’ayHam............... 288 | To prepare Salt........05.0i02..< ib. 
 Westphalia Ham............... ib: | —— Mustard....... Wem iets. 245 
 To pickle a Ham with Beer.. ib.| Fried Parsley................004 ib, 
 Yorkshire: Mams:....2......... ib. | ‘Crisp Parsley @, 0c: vcosea cee ib. 
 Mock Dutch Beef............... ib. | Fried bread Sippets............ ib. 
 esc nacnices vasicassseee 939} Peds Powder 7 iiiss oles eccs 246 
 bes er tl oS ib. | To preserve Butter ............ ib. 
 To stew Tongue................ ib. | To keep Milk and Cream ... ib. 
 
 An excellent way of doing 
 Tongues to eat cold...... ib. 
 b 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 XVHi CONTENTS. 
 CAKES. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 
 UsEFu. DIRECTIONS IN MAK- Orange Sponge... ...csecssbieses’ 200 
 
 TING (IARES 4 avis come 248 | Rice Cheese Cakes......... re 
 Iceing for Cakes ..........0000. 250|'To make Apple Cake, or 
 Cheese Cakes.....0..ce.scseese0s ib. Gateau de Pommes ..... ibe 
 AMponge Cake: io. zccoscssane ib. | Sponge Biscuits .............. ib. 
 To make Yorkshire Cakes... ib. | Diet Bread Cake ............... 256 
 ——— Muffins............ccceeeees ib. | Almond Cheese Cakes.......... ib. 
 
 ‘Hard Biscuits ...2cccs 251.1 Baba Caltesicic;. 25sss sees sicib. 
 A very fine Cake............6+ ib. | Gingerbreadl 2... sstuesweaeees ib. 
 Apa Wakes: ais otaa tw pets ib. | Hunting Nuts ........... iavencd Ow. 
 ea CARRE Ss ietacagecaceiees 252 | Ginger Gakes <#23,. sees ib. 
 Sweet Biscuits..........sccscess ib. | College Puffs... ccc cousanvscee ib. 
 Drop Biscuits: :.s.c....<sa0iaete ib. | Easty Buns™...........00 Ltd Aedes 
 Watatia Cakes 32. .is5 saececceoks ib. | Little Cakes.......:. pueeantaey ib. 
 Bath Bunga PNoiaveeweReseea ib. | Maltese Cakes ........scaseseees ib. 
 Mae CAKGS \.: oiyvevaceeetarente 253 | Rock: “Ggiretsena teenies 258 
 A Somersetshire Biscuit...... ib. | Tunbridge Cakes.............+- ib. 
 The Victoria Cake ............ ib. || Drop Bigedite ci yc. os evaneeus ib. 
 Shrewsbury Cake ...........0. ib. | Lemon :Cakes, soncqoubibe ss om ib. 
 moe ttn Cake ?..'...c..s+-cerees ib. | Receipt for Little Cakes...... ib. 
 Sponge Cake..3./.... na eeeseiss 254 | Gooseberry Cakes .........+00¢ ib. 
 A. cheap Seed Cake............ ib. | Brighton Biscuits .......... «inet 20D 
 A mother ditho a. cscs somah teva ib.) Derby: Cakeg.,. cxsscytaie ks seanse ts 10s 
 RiterROck 2) anus. cores eters ib. 
 
 PASTIES, PIES, &c. 
 
 German Batter....c 000s dcqsase 260 Lemon Mince Pies..... aed 263 
 Ginger Soulless: ..cs.vedteessa ibs; MincerPieqsn t.ccvegtins et ess sata ies 
 (FOTENS “SA Saia sess sos eames ib. | Short Pasha so aka cteaaee 264 
 Gooseberry Fool ...........0008 ib. | Carrot Pudding .......... Fe dessetic Ate 
 An excellent short Crust .... ib. | Citron Pudding ............. Pe 
 A Venison Pasty: caer 261:| Squab Pigai. Man aceerenelees ib. 
 Venison Pasty (another way) 262 ; Another ditt .........+:.s:s0e0 ib. 
 
 
 
 Golires 352th tes ien stunts ib. | Apples in Syrup for present 
 Pail Paste tee: shia kipas ib. USO Sven. cdalenubtinagent iptancrese « ib. 
 Paste for the Timballe......... ib. 
 CREAMS. 
 
 AgeOne Crea «(5 veces cigac serie 266-| Apple Gakew 7c. c.cucsssseenee * 268 
 Raspberry Cream............06 ib. | Venetian Cream (a. ssccae..0 ib. 
 ENDOO TL OC. savas duce v's udaseees meee ib. | Coffee Cregeen cet setkss.e ib. 
 SMES COPCADT pred us cuiotasaeesay ib. | Lemon Syllabubs............... ib. 
 Orange-Flower Cream.......... 267 } Orange Custards............... ib. 
 Blanc-Manger ...ccssecvscceeees ib. | Rice Creatiiicssstuescaee 33 69 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 MPTSORS oder edii sg eY 55 fhe ko sees ib. 
 
 CONTENTS. xix 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Whipt Chocolate Cream...... 269 | Zest for Gravies.... ........08. 270 
 Whipt Marasquino Cream... ib.| To clarify Sugar ............... ib. 
 MeCINOM RICE L050 livassss sss eas P.1 VO-DOUISUDAL' A ese divitinctecss 271 
 (another way)............ 270 | To clarify Isinglass in a short 
 Cheese Fritters ..........0..0006 ib. Pua Ae oe TRO eee. < ib 
 Ginger Creaniiicesvs..c.ss00ese ib. 
 PRESERVES—JELLIES. 
 Apple Jelly.......... Mee tase anne 272 | Orange Marmalade............ 276 
 —— (Another way)........... ib. | To preserve Oranges whole .. 277 
 SCLC oe ae a a 273 | Transparent Marmalade...... ib. 
 Orange Fely ooo uccties eee. ib. | To preserve Melons............ ib. 
 (another way)............ gD | ig lish: CHYLOn iG. i... s..c0e0 se 278 
 BANGING sores cs wcsizcan ences Be COTE Y SAIN Se ensees vderasneo ib. 
 Jelly of Cherries .............0 DEA SOTO UW DOUG. T, ooo civen vase wos vas ib. 
 Jelly of Four Fruits............ ib. | Another Lemon Solid......... 279 
 White Currant Jelly ......... WD Ale CRCATING, | flue scegenedénes ib. 
 Calves’ Feet Jelly .............. Myo eta AW COVERT oe) revs cs ceveo% ee ib. 
 cy cubes CR ase Bee Oa WEF SAMOS sal oie c ss ascccceenne ces ib. 
 To make Red Currant Jelly COrrant FOOL ceils. casenenrs cies ib. 
 without boiling............ BUG | DOE OOL S25 vc acetegneestenyse: ib. 
 Gooseberry Fool, or a Com- COMPARES TOOL, -ceivcsdessesheress 280 
 pote of Gooseberries .... ib. | Gooseberry Custard ............ ib. 
 Compote of Cherries ........... To. | Rataha Creamy... os. ccgeees sous ib. 
 — of Raspberries and BLOCK CLOMID 4's cemencnae orice. ib. 
 Gooseberries............00 ib. | Lemon Possetit...........0.0000 ib. 
 Peaches and Apricots.. 276 | Vanilla Cream ...........6...06 281 
 —— Of Pears ......ccceceseseees IDs | STONE CLEANING. i. ccs ses ees sevens ib. 
 GRISEA ciccsciesces ss: ibe} Lemon’ Creams .cisds.c sie. case ib. 
 —— Of Orange......scrscseseees ab, |), Lemon. Peels: 255. estes sies'sys ib. 
 PICKLING. 
 CECT eraiiree rapteyivisscs eves 283 | Mangoes and Cucumbers .... 284 
 UCT COOLER, Coane nee ae rrr ene tbe Piccalilli som. seers ss sscse a eieee « 285 
 a Oa a ee 284; Mushrooms (white)............ 286 
 WO CAVOALC ssdercisesesscsceiss ib. | —— (DLOWND) ....scereeeeereeeee ib. 
 FRUITS. 
 GOOSCDETTICS.....0.c0c0cececeoees $67) |) Bullies Plaiis... sieves ccesasa~« 287 
 

 
 
 
 xx CONTENTS. 
 VINEGARS, ESSENCES, &e. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 
 Shalot: Vinegar is..c.s adisweiey me 287 | Walnut Ketchup.............. 290 
 
 Garlie, V megaris siaszi stasis ib. | Savoury Ragotit Powder...... ib. 
 
 Quintessence of Lemon Peel. 288 | Cayenne Pepper........sc.s... 291 
 
 Essence of Ginger ..........000 ib. | Essence of Cayenne..........+. ib. 
 
 —— of Celery ..........sceceees ib. | Shalot . Wine. \.c.2.ce0-<sakueeess ib. 
 
 Bali nesar yo. Sys doasee ib. | Chili V tegiariy. 3 asess-nunenen= 292 
 
 Green Mint Vinegar .......... 289 | Camp Vinegar........«scseoree ib. 
 
 To make Pickle for Brawn... ib, | Tarragon Vinegar ..........+ ib. 
 
 FO SPICKIE- LEMONS -.4 1.050000 ib. | Horse-radish Vinegar...... ch Ds 
 
 Pickle for Green Fruit or Method of Pickling Red or 
 Veietables ssspo<rcncdsnese ib. other Cabbage ........s000 ib. 
 
 PUCIAT) DICKIO ....cseseont oan atay ib. | To make Salpicons............ 293 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON VEGE- To dress Truffles ..........0000. 302 
 TABLES, AND ON THE ——Truffles(Provengal way) 303 
 Mopbe or CHoosiIne AND —— Mushrooms............... ib. 
 DRESSING THEM .......... 294 | Truffles, au Court Bouillon.. ib. 
 
 How to boil Vegetables ...... ib. | To boil Artichokes ............ ib. 
 
 Batter for frying Vegetables. ib. | —— Artichokes with Butter 304 
 
 To dress Spinach...........00s» 295 | —— with Butter Sauce...... ib. 
 
 Purée of dried Peas............ ib. | Peas and Roots, Maigre...... ib. 
 White Kidney Beans... ib. | Artichokes ............:.ssessenee ib. 
 
 ———— CCE oo... css so conneds cabs 296 | —— in surprise ............02. 305 
 
 —— Green Peas ...........000+ ib, | —— with a white Sauce....., ib. 
 
 To dress Cardoons .........0006 298 | —— with Oil .............ceee0e ib. 
 
 —— Spinach ...........scecereee 299 | Asparagus with Green Peas, 306 
 
 Another way of dressing Entremets of Beans............ ib. 
 SpIMAchi aos. scseeeceeaues ib. | A Ragout of Celery............ ib. 
 
 To dress Endive.............+ ib. | A Turnip Stew (a West-coun- 
 
 A Mode of dressing Cauli- try IS) lis hot eeaee ib. 
 flowers with Parmesan Cabbage and Rice (a West- 
 Cheese ween r ais uiseecen 300 country Dish)............. 307 
 
 To prepare Onions for sea- To stew Celery............sce00s ib. 
 SOWING Sle hetit tase ib. | Tomatas farcied.............9... ib. 
 
 To preserve Cucumbers ...... ib. | Pommes de Terre a la Maitre 
 
 —— Vegetable Marrow...... 301 d Hotel x cocsntee ication» ib. 
 
 To dress Beet-Root...........+ ib. | Potato Balls <..c.tsedesee sss 308 
 
 —— Mushrooms with a Oucumbers. 5. .ssssncaoeepesrasse ib. 
 WHAILeSaUuce.s., ipso taee ib. | Fried Salsifig... @-cevans een ib. 
 
 ——Cauliflowers with Gravy ib.| To preserve Asparagus dur- 
 
 Another Way of dressing ing the Winter........... ib. 
 Mushrooms witha white To dress Artichokes, au na- 
 RIRUCO Hy cient vista hee caue 302 turel vise nsw te oe 309 
 
 Mushrooms boiled.........0600+ ib. | —— (another way).....s.ser ib. 
 

 
 CONTENTS. XX1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAGE, PAGE. 
 
 White Beans, a la Maitre How to choose and how to 
 OME Fst coe sbae .a0 309 boil New Potatoes ...... 310 
 To preserve Green Peas...... ib, | Tordress Laver sics.si.ciscess sce 311 
 How to choose and how to —— (another way)..........0 ib, 
 
 boil Potatoes............... 310 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 Liqueur d’Anisette ............ SFL SESS CIED focus coves cuctieedis cues 316 
 ME OR EEE occ opish e tsinees eee ib. | Cherry Brandy .............000+ ib. 
 —— (Another way) .......... ib. another way...........0... 317 
 Vendor, or Milk Punch ...... ib. | Liqueur de quartres Fruits... ib. 
 An excellent Method of W hite Noyeaw.. cies ese sess ib. 
 Making Punch :........+ ONS | EIDE NOVOR ee accerstoseree ib. 
 Raspberry Brandy ............ Poe) CUTLANG WALT fac. y econ diree ness 318 
 White Currant Shrub......... 814| Raspberry Water...........0.+6 ib. 
 Créme de Vanille...........+0 Pie PRUGATUCON cle Regs pAdctaansi pa sue esis ib. 
 RG LE Lose paras vw sn.an sae. ib.| White Currant Brandy...... ib. 
 BEANO e cave cn tain vide be as ib. | Carraway Brandy............. 319 
 Punch 4 la Romaine .......... ib. | Raspberry Brandy ............. ib. 
 (bok het on SAR Ae 315 | Black Cherry Brandy......... ib. 
 LAT PC) Fo sans Cassin vers ens ses ib. | Orange Brandy...........00.000 ib. 
 To make Punch to keep in EG eo fas Ria scv iris tos ib. 
 SCGG ES ees os dove sd evede onei ss a) Woiskey Parmehy,.:.ics.csssee0 321 
 Ga PERCH. (....08 ecto. iecdenss ib. | The Royal Opiate.............. ib. 
 To make Milk Punch (12 Ssinger Beer. ..7is..c08s. cssare ib. 
 Bottles) Betsaee irs evs acse ge ib. another Way .....scssse ib. 
 Punch 4 la Romaine (another Ginger: Wit % iiss ectssiei secane 322 
 FORIMOR cars suet cove seaine 316 | To make Spruce Beer.... .... ib. 
 
 PAE AON 8 see os Epbar seve ib.| Curds and Whey, imme- 
 Receipt for Punch (cold)...... ib. QiAbG iss vinei6es se serssbuc ib. 
 Delicious Saline Draughts... ib. | Lemonade..............ssseseeees ib. 
 POUR WY QUEL is nadene sores snecee ib. | Brewing made easy............ ib. 
 
 POTTING. 
 Potted Calves’ Feet............ 324 | To pot Lampreys............40. 324 
 Imitation of Worcester Lam- —— LODSteTS.........s0cceseeeee 325 
 DEC Y Bade ycsnessewnwiavsenses oe ib. 
 
 INDIAN AND ANGLO-INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 Casserole au Ris a l’Indienne 326 | Shamee Kubab..............0046 328 
 FIBRIL N ke Na teva sess ceene. ib; | Spinach Carry ....5 gs cts sess. ib. 
 Dry Curry with Vegetables ib. | Kircharee, or Cutcheree...... ib. 
 Ry Ci ieee gi aoe ns shsccsege ces S27 t Chink UC migaiy tetera cng cise ane ib. 
 Ba Es 1 i a rr ibs} Todiat Woabad c..) 5c .05 04s 329 
 
¥X11 CONTENTS. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 APSE Scat chs sing cpouanarscaate $29 | Indian Sharbwt..c.ccyaseet. see 336 
 TPO g OTE TRICE. ci, Soc aay aeon he spe ib. | Fried Chicken, a la Mala- 
 Ammother Puan o. 0. .seieaas essen 330 bar.,..c/esdatenh¥eckaiveeeee ib. 
 Oapsicum CuUrryeecivse. ecsve ib. | Burdwan Stew..............e00- ib. 
 EITICHLCE.« ccs rus ews deees odestent ib. | A Country Captain............ 337 
 PEP PCL WALCT sacs s cvesesstaete 331 | Bhusta .2.c.sscsateesaemeneenenss ib. 
 A very fine Indian Curry... ib.| Mullagatawny Soup........... ib. 
 PS MOWOTUC close va raness cotecnstpasss 332 | Carakay, or Indian Sauce... ib. 
 FO Bara POl00 500s. .cas0cansaes ib.| To boil Rice (another way).. ib. 
 Mahee- POlA00 sos... c+sccesaeses 333 another WAY, ...ss0sse«0s 338 
 Meetab (Sweet) Polaoo....... ib.| An Indian Dish called Bal-  — 
 An Indian Condiment..,...... 334 Jachong’.: ceserasenacoceee ib. 
 AROUCDER sc asciesess ssc cenee dea ces ib. | Receipt for Bengal Chetney... ib. 
 Receipt for Curry Powder... ib.| Mullaghee Tawnee, or Curry 
 Another Curry Powder ...... ib. SOWD dgratessseens ere cay 339 
 An excellent Receipt for An inimitable Curry........... ib. 
 Carry ‘Powder... ....:0c... ib. | To make adry Lobster Curry ib. 
 Another Curry Powder ...... 335 (A Ourry. itannees aveeep ccemeercs 340 
 Duhee, or Curdled Milk...... ib. | A Vercabls CALEY; cakes ib. 
 Love-apple Chutnee........... ib. | Curry for one Fowl............ ib. 
 To make Peish Moulia, or Malay: Cusry...tpcaaaeenheoee ib. 
 Pickled Wish cs aes coke ib.| Madras Prawn Curry......... 341 
 amarvind Fish .?.2,s:scaseiesye 336 | Indian Chetney .......,....000 ib. 
 
 
 
 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 SOUPS. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON FRENCH 
 Sours IN GENERAL...... 
 Pot au Feu de Maison, ou 
 Bouillon Restaurant ..... 
 Rabbit Soup, or Stock from 
 Wild Rabbits.............. 
 A Maigre Broth of Pot-herbs 
 (Bouillon maigre d’Es- 
 sence de Plantes Po- 
 LAVETCH )\.- vereceVsns cosets 
 Turnip and Pea-Soup (Po- 
 tage de Navets aux Pe- 
 tits Pois) 
 Celery and Chervil Soup 
 (Potage de Celeri au 
 Cerfeuil) 
 Cabbage Soup (Potage au 
 Choux 
 Clear Vermicelli Soup (Po- 
 tage de Vermicelle au 
 Consommé) 
 
 344 
 ib. 
 
 345 
 
 ib. 
 
 eeoseroeceseoeoeoesese 
 
 346 
 
 eoeereeerse-seeeeees 
 
 ib. 
 
 eeeeeseseoneese 
 
 Soup of a Purée of Fowl, 
 Queen’s fashion (Potage 
 de Purée de Volaille, a 
 la Reine) 
 Soup of a Purée of young 
 Peas (Potage de Purée 
 de Pois nouveaux, a la 
 
 see ooseeseeseeseeses 
 
 Sb; Clot jiiesetaceacsiensn 347 
 A Brown (Braise oressasccces ib. 
 Consommé of . Poultry, or 
 
 Chicken Stock .....,...... 348 
 White Poélé., 2.4... cecessenes: ib. 
 Soup a la Julienne (Potage a 
 
 la Julienne) soo .s eps ee sn. ib. 
 Turnip Soup (Potage a la 
 
 Beal vean ). vcsssas sing cad oss 349 
 Onion Soup (Potage a la 
 
 Clermont) Si cateepandeh os ib. 
 
 Mock Turtle, in the Parisian 
 Fashion (Potage de Tor- 
 
 tue, ala Parisienne)..... ib. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 CONTENTS. xxii 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Queen’s Soup (Potage 4 la Pearl Barley Soup, a la 
 hte a ae 350 PROV AIC a heer ewatinesentes 352 
 Purée of Lentils (Potage de Fis, FRENCH FASHION....... 353 
 Purée de Lentilles a la Braise Maigre for boiling 
 Me OLD or areiescrissistsssees 351 1 OVE 1h Ea a ay ela 7 BBs ae ib. 
 Purée of Onions (Potage de DISH AOU heen tctcctescaees hs ib. 
 Purée de Lentilles ala Lamprey in Matelote......... ib. 
 PUES C ese se ovetocustecee«s ib. | Grilled Salmon.......:..00c.s00 354 
 Soup. of a Purée of young Cutlets of Sturgeon in paper ib. 
 Carrots (Potage de Perches in Wineé.............665 ib. 
 Purée de Racines, 4 la Fillets of Sole, ala Horly.... ib. 
 RIPEC UM eka takes sania v-ess. ib. | A Sauté of Fillets of Soles, a 
 Rice Soup a la Creci (Potage la Maitre d@Hotel ........ ib. 
 de Ris, a la Creci)........ 352 | Soles au Gratin.............0000 355 
 Carrot Soup (Potage de Pu- Whitings with Herbs......... ib. 
 rée de Carottes de Flan- Mackarel, 4 la Maitre d’ Hotel ib. 
 OM NO een edecvecacssces ib.| Red Mullet with Maitre 
 Turnip Soup (Potage de Pu- d’ Hotel Saucexc.ccc.3...0. 356 
 rée de Navets)............ ib, | ——- with Sweet Herbs........ ib. 
 Onion Soup, a la Cressy —— Another way ............ ib. 
 (Purée d’Oignons, a la Pike or Trout, 4 la Genevoise ib. 
 RGSS) pace deh aces tics vetss ib. | Sturgeon, 4 la Romulus ...... 357 
 FRENCH SAUCES. 
 PSE cei coe ca ba nen say us ea awes 358 | Béchamel Sauce.............008- 363 
 Spanish, or Brown Sauce..... ib. | Bechamel Sauce (another) .. 364 
 Salt Water to boil Fish in... ib. | Sharp Sauce (another)........ ib. 
 Sauce a la Matelote for Fish 359 | Robert Sauce (another)....... ib. 
 La Ducelle, after Beauvillier’s Sauce au Supréme (another). ib. 
 ER ety iesscansied vn ces's ib. | —— Tomate........... NT 365 
 Poor Man's Sauce .............. ib. | —— a la Tartare.....,......006 ib. 
 PIANOS HL OULICE ss 055 issccesoecnee PR FICE SAUOC «oc ces pavseveveensecs ib. 
 Sauce 4 l’Allemande ........... ib. | Sauce pour la Salade ........ . 866 
 ae Ee AOTC Ses coe scer ese ogous 360 | Garlic Sauce ala Provengale. ib. 
 GASCODY DAWES A, o.isscce-seeees ib} Wrench Sauce. civ. eee cep sss ib. 
 Anchovy Butter ............... BD.) CROAT SAIC, sets acs cts oeerosey ec ib. 
 POM e ccd ieaserdcestspsvsees ib. | White Onion Sauce............ 367 
 Another Velouté Sauce....... Sola arc Butter. o),-ciecenseis sg ib. 
 WET ROUX ass le cifssieceecsses ib. | Cold Sauce a la Tartare...... ib. 
 PTR ISEE seis ovin'y sis bo soe 06 ib. | Poivrade Sauce...........00008- ib. 
 SAILEING SAUCE.......0:000050008 362 | Sauce Maigre Poivrade........ 368 
 Sauce Robert for Pork Chops ib. | Minced Sauce................000. ib. 
 Sauce 4 la Mirepoix............ ib. | Béchamel Maigre .............. ib. 
 Gerimgh Sate... . 0c. eee ib. | —— or White Sauce........... 369 
 Puree OF Celery, sc... sss. sesce ee 363 | Thickened Butter............... ib. 
 White Consommé, or Veal Poor Man’s Sauce.... .......00« ib. 
 SEOCKYs Sui sea ves Prensvce tet Due MATINAde ....c.vccs.esae 370 
 
XX1v CONTENTS. 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Sauce 4 la Tartare (another) 370 | Preparing Hung Beefissi. ae. 875 
 Marinade, unboiled............. ib. | Blanc Manger a la Vanille... ib. 
 Blond de Veau...............:.. ib.| Blane Manger (French mode) 376 
 Common Broth Maigre........ 371 | Ravigotte QA UGE. 055. 55s 503. ib. 
 Chicken Broth for the Sick... ib. & la CaréMe@.. csssusvwssise ib. 
 Another Chicken Broth...... 372 | French Pudding....iccesasecoees ib. 
 Materials for frying, oil, but- Braised Turkey....... ee ace 377 
 ter, lard, beef suet, &c... ib. | Fowls a la Tartare.......:..... ib. 
 White Thickening for Ve- Sauce aux Hatelettes.......... ib. 
 louie, ccC.. <i gesyscyes Ga 373 | A Leg of Mutton with Gar- 
 Brown Thickening for Espag- LiGs cAcspivachovenes cane neaedes 378 
 
 NOIE cas. tees nae oes ib.| Leg of Mutton, Gascon 
 French Sausages ..........00.06 ib. fashions. ircancs sretseetias ib. 
 Batter for frying, French Roasted Hats ire cseeqeeeree ib. 
 
 FASHION = cechaut seqefove ence ib. | To dress a Leg of Mutton... . 379 
 Arles Sausages.......scceseeeeee 374 | To dress Artichokes ala Bari- 
 French Sausages (another GOULS ccdrsonesasrecasmeeeens ib. 
 
 WAY.) ciiacactrapenalananee tte ib. 
 
 FRENCH PASTRY, AND OTHER SMALL DISHES. 
 Fine Paste for Tourts......... 380 | Quenelle of Fowl............... 382 
 Half-puft Paste. .....csserss: s02 ib. | Fowls with Trufifes............ 383° 
 A Gigot aux Haricots......... ib. | Calf’s Liver with Fine Herbs. 384 
 Paste for Hot Pies 72282 ib. | Veal Sweetbreads .............. ib. 
 Paste for Timbales .......,..... 381 | A plain Fricassée of Chicken. ib. 
 Cold French Pies............00. ib. | Fricassée of Chickens with 
 Dariolet<s 205 5. ib. Mushrooms .........c0ceeee 385 
 Mutton Kidneys siciicescecss oss 382 | —— @ la Perigord ............ 386 
 
 ENTREES OF BEEF, 
 
 Filets Mignons of Beef Sauté Hilletof Bach oon, hoes a 387 
 a la Lyonaise. «..sossiens 386 | Fillets of Beef in their 
 Beefsteaks with Potatoes, JUICE is 5 :sF eed eee ib. 
 
 French fashion............ ib. 
 
 ENTREES OF VEAL. 
 Veal Cutlets 4 ’Italienne .... 387 | Blanquettes de Veau.......... 389 
 Cotelettes de Veau ala Main- Veal Cutlets aux Fines 
 
 TODON wis oes oons cua Se tee 388 Herbes-ce:iss:3 Ba tisgts.: ib. 
 
 Fricandeau de Veau...........- ib. | Ris de Veau a la Dauphine... ib. 
 
 
 

 
 CONTENTS. XXV 
 
 ENTREES OF MUTTON, LAMB, AND PORK. 
 
 
 
 
 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Cotelettes de Mouton 4 la Rognons de Moutons au Vin 
 BOR DING Teo tich cas so tevese> 390 de Champagne, ou 4 
 Cotelettes d’Agneau Panées. ib. Pitalienne 2.3, seek sas os 391 
 ala Minute .............. ib.| Cotelettes de Pore, Sauce 
 —— de Mouton aunaturel... ib. Trober iy iti tase epee ss ib. 
 ENTREES OF GAME AND FOWL. 
 Perdrix 4 la Crapaudine...... 391] Fillets of Fat Chicken, au 
 Salmi de Perdreaux .......... ib, Supréme ...... BE sy Ge 392 
 Fillets of Hare en Chevreuil.. 392 | Fricassée of Fowls ............. 393 
 Legs of Rabbits ala Main- Poulets a la Paysanne......... ib. 
 SIC Se Bae ee a area ib. 
 ENTREMETS. 
 Tarnips glazed. ........ 006000 393 | Haricots Verts 4 la Fran- 
 Turnips with Sugar ........... 394 Cala Gc ced tasvaves eves's sah ose « 396 
 Cauliflower with Butter Truffles au Vin de Cham- 
 Beir sa sece ses tose noes ib. PATNI G sie he laccsssnccnee ages’ 397 
 Truffles stewed in Cham- Natid of POW! sc. eck ty Cekets ib. 
 IA eer eo betsetcecss. sees ib.| Omelettes Soufflées............ 398 
 Mushrooms a la Langue- — au MarasquinalaCaréme 399 
 GOCIOTNE (2. voces. cnceesed soe Bus | Onlke- OF OWL. si (ok. cesses wells ib. 
 Plain Omeletic,........000.6s«» Bos) Vanilla, Custard... c.scooe nse ib. 
 Omelette with Fine Herbs... ib. | Syrup for Compotes............ ib. 
 Spinach au Consommé......... ib.| Kidneys au Vin de Cham- 
 Omelette Soufflée ............... 396 PAG eek abe se ks ib. 
 (another Way)........+++- ib.| Onions a la Créme.............. 400 
 EGGS 
 Oe ve nie sow ann ccencoeccsssees se ccs ccseicivetsaedsenes 400 
 FRENCH TERMS OF ART. 
 Prmiiee, oF salmicon ..<-...:- 200 | Mark. 0.00... sccsersnecdsinreders 400 
 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 PSI DOUG o paces es ce hesasasie 401 | Ravioles Soup .....sssseesesseee 402 
 Ribbon Macaroni al’Apicius ib.| Macaroni Soup 4 la Ros- 
 
 IV GA CUTIES ce ass tes ncspsecsense 402 SGSa dear ns see tnutraenasn Suction 403 
 Sauté of Truffles ............5+6 ib.! Quenelles 4 la Juvenal........ ib. 
 NEAPOLITAN SOUPS. 
 
 Macaroni Soup 4 la Napoli- MacaroniSoup a lade Médicis 405 
 
 PERC Peete ie oais ves’ 404 | Semolina Soup ala Raphael. ib. 
 
 Cc 
 
Xxvl 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 SICILIAN SOUPS, &c. 
 
 PAGE. PAGE. 
 Macaroni Soup 4 la Sici- ufs 4 la Tripe (Italian way) 407 
 FENG Aire ariewartscrs 405 (another Italian way)... 408 
 Entry of Fowls a l'Italienne.. 406 | Craw-fish..........:ssceceeeseeves ib. 
 Young Partridges with Lobsters (Italian way)........ ib. 
 Truffles (Italian way)... ib. | Fricassee of Cod(Italian way) 409 
 Eggs (Lombardy way) ....... 407 | Barbels dressed with Cham- 
 Young Turkeys roasted pagne (Italian way)...... ib. 
 (Italian way) .........0s6s ib. | Italian. Sausages .:......:-s-«.-s ib. 
 SPANISH COOKERY. 
 Soup of Capon (Spanish Spanish Saucer...dus + stars eps 412 
 MNOGC) | sacs sake ven keeaban sane 411} Pheasants (Spanish way).... 413 
 National Soup of Spain....... ib.| Barbels en Maigre, with a 
 Of Rice and Quenelles a la Spanish Sauce ............ ib. 
 SHOW scvasys seascapinaee es 412 | Receipt for a Puchero......... 414 
 In imitation of a Soufflée...... ib. 
 GERMAN COOKERY. 
 Soles ala Germanique......... 415] To dress Sauer Kront......... 417 
 Royal German Matelote ..... ib. | German Savice. osc ssaqeeneasess ib. 
 DOCG OAIAC «cies cn sssencoanatecy 416 | Eggs, German way ............ A418 . 
 To make Sauer Krout......... ib.| Celery Soup for Fast days... ib. 
 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 Celery:Soup aicscarsasetecsteare 419 | Young Turkeys with Oysters 
 Soup of Eels (Dutch way)... ib. (Dutch Way jiesiacccssnnmee 424 
 Soup of Herrings’ Roes, a Dutch Sauce. 7 a teaehi wes ib. 
 PPASMIC §. ciscses screenname 420; Another, either for Meat or 
 Soup of Fish, a la Flessingue ib. Hish Sos icetien bettas ib. 
 Compote of Partridges Plukketisk....:.ac tenes eas ib. 
 (Dutch fashion) ......... ib. | Fromage of Raspberries....... 425 
 Perch 4 la Hollandaise......... 421 | White Sago Soup............69. ib. 
 Cod (Dutch fashion) ......... 422 | Creatn Sauce siya. eiues.s sees ib. 
 Soles (Dutch way) ..........6 ib. | Cold Anchovy Sauce ......... ib. 
 Salt Cod (Dutch way)........ 423 | Raspberry Sauce ............++. ib. 
 Oyster Pie (Dutch way)...... ib. } Cherry Sateen ke rareepe tencdase ib. 
 A Jowl of Salmon (Dutch Macédoine of Vegetables ..... 426 
 Fashion) oidsesnshtoasseees ib. . 
 ‘ RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 Sturgeon, Imperial mode..... 427 | Oysters (Russian fashion)... 429 
 Russian Countrywoman’s Young Partridges (Russian 
 POU Ds ve kani's 5 vigmenee Renee ib. WAY.) ssiseeeaccimuiet anaes ib 
 Russian Rissoles .............00¢ 428 | Fricassée of Young Rabbits 
 Russian Patties.............0.065 ib. (Russian way ), <a<.55 520s ib. 
 Russian Raised Pie............ ib. | Kaissetté, a Russian Dish... ib. 
 
 
 

 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 
 PAGE. | 
 The Ouka, a Fish Soup...... 430 
 Soup of Fillets of Perch, ala 
 CEPOL .; css sesecns.cs 431 
 
 Giblet Soup (German mode) 432 
 
 XXVIII 
 
 PAGE 
 Soup of Sauer Krout, al’ Alex- 
 
 VET) ses RE pate, 1) aL eee 
 
 POLISH COOKERY. 
 
 Le Barch, Polonese Soup..... 
 Soles, a la Polonaise Pa ere 
 
 ocke 
 
 Ce er 
 
 Seorasesereeenereseaooee 
 
 4041 A; Neat’s Tonoue... :....35c000. 
 435 Polish Baba 
 
 eeerroreeeeereesestes 
 
 POPC C EEE see Desereeoes 
 
 PORTUGUESE COOKERY. 
 
 Orta) Hee a ieindmennnscesesie 439 
 Soles (Portuguese way) ...... ib. 
 Portuguese Stuffing for 
 Baked Soles ...........+++ ib 
 page Beef (Portuguese 
 Seem iiieat cane kasie deme 440 
 
 ne. eee way) .. 
 
 .| Portugal Tart 
 
 A Matelot with several sorts 
 of Fish (Portuguese way) 
 Lampreys (Portuguese way) 
 
 ee eereroerereseeseoe 
 
 eee reer erreeere 
 
 HUNGARIAN COOKERY. 
 
 Soles dressed in the Hun- 
 POPIAN WOOO... sgace senses 
 
 Pearl Barley Soup (Hunga- 
 rian mode) 
 
 Coe eeeeeserereree 
 
 AMERICAN, SWISS, AND FLEMISH COOKERY. 
 
 Turtle Soup(American mode) 444 
 Swiss Custards..............-<.+ ib. 
 
 Eggs (Swiss fashion) 
 Flemish Soup 
 
 ee 
 
 Corre ereeresestone 
 
 A COLLECTION OF MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 
 
 To make-Coffee.......0.:.c0c00 446 
 (another way)............ ib. 
 —— Chocolate...............6.. 447 
 Arrow-root Jelly..........00006 ib. 
 TE RPNOCA CEN Y Seaververe.ccsccesees ib. 
 Gloucester Jelly ............000. ib. 
 Meat cubbubed, Dinner for 
 RLY LV Geese i ssivceveviess ib. 
 To scald Cream=as in the 
 west of England ......... 448 
 Hungary Water ............0.4. ib. 
 TIGHC YG WCALCLe occ cacisscnesceees ib 
 Lavender Water ............... ib. 
 Fumigating Mixture for Sick 
 RICE i Gis iceeonecss ses 449 
 NE ICAIEEBEMO oi oss seve scceceees ib. 
 White Wine Whey ............ ib. 
 A most pleasant Drink ....... ib. 
 
 seawic 
 
 For chapped Lips............... 
 To clean Carpets........esse00 
 Grapes in Brandy 
 To make Essence of all sorts 
 of Flowers, to serve to 
 flavour Liqueurs, &c..... 
 Herbs, and when in Season... 
 To loosen Glass Stoppers of 
 Bottles 
 To make excellent Starch 
 from Potatoes 
 
 eee esetasesen 
 
 ee oe 
 
 eee eeeereore 
 
 .| To preserve Cream for seve- 
 
 Tal MOBtRS. ici sesses beeen 
 —— Potatoes from frost...... 
 To prevent the freezing of 
 
 Water in Pipes in Win- 
 
 ter 
 
 eee ee ee 
 
XXVIii CONTENTS. 
 PAGE PAGE. 
 To cure the Ring-worm ...... 453 | Another Lait de Poule........ 460 
 Essence of Soap for Shaving. ib. | Fumigating Pastiles .......... Pee io 
 Toremove Iron-moulds from To make Shoes Waterproof.. ib. 
 Ten sik Ate s hit ake ates ib. | Tar Water..:.....9 Yee eee ib. 
 To wash Gold Ornaments ... 454 | Lime Water..... ....s.scsseseee ib. 
 How to destroy Bugs ......... ib.| To clean Pewter Vessels and 
 Another receipt for destroy- Tin_-Covers ........ hg es 461 
 IN? BUSS .5.c..s ase aatees ib. | Directions for cleaning Bri- 
 A cure for Chilblains ......... ib tannia Metal Goods ..... ib. 
 Cure for Cormsiis.... i: 4 es.ceee ib. | To preserve Gilding .......... ib. 
 Receipt for French Polish.... ib.|To clean Looking-Glasses 
 A Water to take out Spots of and Plate Glass ........... ib. 
 Grease, Oil, or Pitch, To wash Wine Decanters.... ib. 
 from Linen and Stuffs... 455 | To clean Paint...............+.- 462 
 Chelsea Pensioner for Rheu- To make Aniseed Water or 
 TAGISH) ssycesy necawesa¥anvos ib. Aniseed Brandy........... ib. 
 MOU BAO =. «5 aateng; stow es ces cers ib. | Téa Creat 52.7, cesta eeenne. ib. 
 Barley Water ........sssscesses ib. | Apple. Water isis aces ner ib. 
 Strengthening Bitter ......... ib. | To make Marking Ink........__ ib. 
 Wor @ Cousin tc0., ac seanecece 456 | For a Cold or Cough .......... 463 
 done Life A teteaigoseie eee ib. | Ginger Béers:i5; cei istes sarees ib. 
 Tsinglasa J lly sic nesecaceentens ib. | To make Cold Cream......... ib. 
 Hartshorn Jelly ............000 ib.| Another Receipt to clean 
 For weak Constitutions ...... 457 PQIG «55 bis oa wovpne ete oemone ib. 
 Another very Nutritive ...... ib. | For chapped Hands ........... 464 
 Directions for Boiling the In- Dr. Turton’s Receipt to 
 dian Arrow-root.......+00. ib. make Orgeat.:y...3.ce0000 ib. 
 Lait de Poule, or Hen’s Milk ib.|To make Emulsion for a 
 MMOLE, .2 5.2 cecsdee0slaeedeebere ib. Cough. .:</:.ssipioestr reat wee 
 Little Puddings, or Rough To inne Lavender Water... ib. 
 Caps acivdiaik. 235 ean eee 458 | Fritters without Eggs......... ib. 
 For a Sore Throat...........0++ ib. | To clean Boot Tops............ ib. 
 Chicken-foot Jelly...........06 ib. | To make British Champagne 465 
 Receipt for an Invalid......... ib. | Tomake Honeycomb Ginger- 
 Malt Role’. i325 ain eee ib. breaths ..cuc.vadasoeurvereos ib. 
 Russian “Tea... .... sess sivveveees 459 | Another .......... scepa cease bts ib. 
 Sauce for Asparagus .......... ib. | Gooseberry Winesint: asdau: ib. 
 Breast of Lamb in the Da- Receipt to make Straw Var- 
 BIS WAY brie. eee, vests ib. NSH. cd nsenhe eer Es «he 466 
 French Beans as Salad........ ib. | To clean Alabaster or Mar- 
 Niremburg Gingerbread- De ..ssince cel es hoe eeeeas ib 
 Nuts i33315.0ssaiey eorenee ib.| Colouring to stain Jellies, 
 Rum’ Cakes 3. i ke PABSS 460 Ices, or Cakes ........-0.. ib. 
 MATIVATIC i... s.brsiveseesveese net ib. | To take Stains out of Marble -ib. 
 ON WINES. 
 
 On THE CHOICE oF A WINE 
 CELLAR. 
 
 REMARKS ON COFFEE AND 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 ao Is 
 

 
 THE PRACTICAL COOK. 
 
 RULES 
 NECESSARY TO BE OBSERVED BY 
 
 COOKS IN THE REGULATION AND MANAGEMENT 
 OF THEIR LARDER. 
 
 Tue first thing that is to be done is to have the 
 dressers and shelves scoured, and the larder made as 
 clean as possible, by washing the floor with plenty of 
 cold water, as it most, undoubtedly cools it very much 
 in the summer; next change all the cold meat, put it 
 upon clean, dry dishes, and place it where the air most 
 comes in. Then look at all the stocks and sauces, to 
 see if they want boiling up. In close, sultry weather, 
 soups should be boiled up every day. Be very parti- 
 cular about the pans they are put into. They should be 
 dry, and free from grease, as soup will ferment, without 
 the greatest attention. If the stock should begin to 
 turn, the better way will be to boil it down for glaze. 
 When you put the sauces on to boil, put a little stock 
 in the stewpan first, to hinder it from burning to the 
 bottom. Sauces should be boiled at least every second 
 day in summer, 
 
 Whatever is done in braises, in the summer, should 
 be made stronger than in winter, or they will not keep 
 for use. 
 
 Put all lardings, if they return to the kitchen whole, 
 im the braise they were done in. Cover them also with 
 
 B 
 
2 OBSERVATIONS AS TO UNDRESSED MEATS, 
 
 the sheets of bacon that enveloped them before they were 
 taken out of the braise. 
 
 Tendons of lamb, tendons of veal, ox rumps, beef or 
 veal olives, rump of ee in short, all things that are done 
 in braises, should be particularly looked to. Those dishes 
 that would be useful again should be carefully put by. 
 
 All meat that is dressed to be kept until cold, whether 
 boiled or roast, should be over done, particularly in 
 summer ; for if the gravy is left in either boiled or roast 
 meat, it will not keep good more than two or three days; 
 but, if done quite dry, it will keep a week, or longer; 
 the roast meat should be well sprinkled with salt before 
 it is taken from the fire. Beef boiled, to be eaten cold, 
 should remain at least fourteen days in salt ; if a few 
 days longer, it will eat all the better. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS AS TO UNDRESSED MEATS. 
 
 In the country, in summer, cooks should be yery par- 
 ticular with butchers. They should see that they bring 
 their meat not later than six o’clock in the morning: ; 
 for when the sun gets warm, the flies do much mischief, 
 and it is extremely difficult to prevent meat being 
 blown. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 When the beef is cut in proper pieces, such as the 
 sirloin, ribs, rump, and brisket, examine well and see 
 that the flies have not been about them. The flies are 
 very apt to get under the loose side of the fat of the 
 sirloin. Look well and see that there are no fly-blows; 
 sprinkle the fat with salt, and rub some also on the chine 
 bone. Take out, subsequently, the pipe that runs along 
 _ the chine bone; rub the place with salt; take out the kernel 
 that is in the fat at the thick end of the sirloin, and also 
 the pith. The place from which these have been re- 
 moved should be well rubbed with salt, and also the 
 outside and two ends. Your meat will keep good a 
 week, by strictly observing the above rules. 
 
 ee 
 

 
 OBSERVATIONS AS TO UNDRESSED MEATS, 5] 
 
 Riss.—Rub the chine bone very well with salt; cut 
 out the piece of skirt, and rub the inside of the ribs well 
 with salt; sprinkle the outside, ends, and tops of the ribs; 
 then hang up your joint. 
 
 Rumr.—Cut the fat that is generally left in by the 
 butchers; take out the kernel that is near the small end; 
 sprinkle the rump all over with salt, and hang it up. If 
 you want steaks from it, cut the outside off before you 
 cut the steaks. If you want it for daubing, pursue a 
 like course. 
 
 Brisket.—The part that is generally kept for stewing 
 is the thick end; as to the size, that must depend upon 
 the judgment of those who are to use it; if wanted to be 
 kept for three or four days, it should be well sprinkled 
 with salt before it is hung up. 
 
 The pieces that are intended for boiling require equal 
 attention. There are two kernels in a round of beef; 
 one in the middle, commonly called the pope’s eye; the 
 other in the thick fat. See that the butcher takes them 
 out, as, if not removed, no quantity of salt will preserve 
 your round from spoiling, particularly in summer time. 
 In the thick flank there is a kernel in the middle of the 
 fat, which should be taken out. There is also one in the 
 aitch-bone, just where the rump is cut off, and another 
 in the shoulder piece. Sometimes, indeed, it is left to 
 the neck-piece ; but be this as it may, it should be taken 
 out. Joint the brisket, in order to let the salt in, and 
 pursue a similar course with the flat ribs. When this is 
 done, see that the butcher rubs the salt well into the 
 beef, and fill all the joints with salt. When properly 
 done, put it down tight in the salt bin, the prime pieces 
 at the bottom. Cover all well with salt, placing the 
 coarse at the top, to be used first. By adhering to these 
 rules the salt beef will be as good in summer as winter. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Lrc.—The first part that spoils, is where the udder 
 is skewered back. The skewer should therefore be 
 BZ 
 
+ OBSERVATIONS AS TO UNDRESSED MEATS. 
 
 taken out, the under part of the udder wiped very dry, 
 then rubbed with a little salt on the udder, top, and the 
 middle part, where the bone is. Take out the kernel 
 from the thick fat. 
 
 Lorn.—Cut out the pipe that runs along the chine 
 bone; rub it well with a cloth under the kidney of the 
 loose side. There is a kernel under the fat that is in 
 the inside of the chump, which ought to be taken out. 
 Sprinkle it moderately all over with salt. 
 
 The SHOULDER is a joint that is seldom kept, as it is 
 either wanted for the stock-pot or the family dinner ; 
 if it should be kept, sprinkle it with salt and hang 
 it up. 
 
 Nice devieke is a pipe that runs along the chine 
 bone which should be cut off.. The chine bone and the 
 inside of the ribs should also be rubbed very dry with a 
 cloth, and sprinkled with a little salt. 
 
 Breast.—Cut the loose fat out from the inside, 
 and the piece of skirt, and wipe it very dry with a ~ 
 cloth. 3 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 CurnE.—The fat should be taken out with the pipe 
 that runs up the back bone, and the two small kernels 
 near the tail. Sprinkle the inside with salt. 
 
 The Lxe spoils sooner than any other part. There 
 is a kernel in the fat, which should be taken out, and 
 the piace filled up with salt, if the butcher has not 
 already removed it well. 
 
 _ The Neck will keep. Cut the pipe out that runs 
 “along the chine bone, and rub it dry with a cloth. 
 
 SHOULDER.—There is a kernel in the inside, which 
 should be taken out. 
 
 Breast.—Cut the skirt out and wipe it dry. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 Lamb should be managed in the same fashion as 
 mutton ; it is also cut up as a sheep. 
 

 
 OBSERVATIONS AS TO UNDRESSED MEATS, 5 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Lrec.—The legs are generally salted for boiling ; 
 if the leg be intended for roasting it ought to be 
 hung up. 
 
 Nercxs and Lorns answer either for chops or roast: 
 ing; they should be sprinkled with salt before they 
 are hung up. 
 
 The Hawp is generally salted for boiling. 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 Venison is oftener spoiled than any other meat. 
 Cooks generally are blamed, but the fault lies fre- 
 quently with the park-keeper. It is impossible for 
 meat to keep that is hunted three, four, and even five 
 hours, before it is killed. 
 
 The Hauncw is the finest jomt. The keeper should 
 bring it in as early after killing as possible. There is a 
 kernel in the fat asin a leg of mutton. It should be 
 taken out, the part wiped very dry, and a little ground 
 pepper and ginger rubbed on the inside. This will 
 keep the flies away. Venison will keep well. 
 
 The Neck is the next best joint, wipe it well with a 
 clean dry cloth. 
 _ The SHovutprr and Breast are generally used in 
 two or three days for a pasty. 
 
 The fattest venison is generally the best. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 Poultry should be kept as cool as possible. The best 
 position in which to place it is with the breast downwards, 
 on a shelf or marble slab. The crop and the gut of the 
 rump should be taken out. Choose fowls with a thin 
 transparent skin, white and delicate. Pigeons full 
 fledged, are heating and hard to digest. The younger 
 they are in general the better. 
 
 In choosing Turkeys, select the brown Norfolk, but 
 if you can find any of the red American breed, the 
 flavour is still finer, 
 
6 THE KITCHEN, 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON THE KITCHEN AND ITS 
 UTENSILS. 
 
 A kitchen should be lightsome and well ventilated. 
 
 Modern kitchens generally abound with contrivances 
 and appurtenances to save trouble and ensure certain 
 satisfactory results. There is generally, and there ought 
 always to be, a good supply of soft water and of kitchen 
 utensils. Steam, that most powerful of all agents in 
 nature, now largely contributes to the operations of 
 cookery, but it is not yet so generally employed as it 
 might be. It is seldom much called into action, except 
 in very large establishments. In Greenwich Hospital 
 one steam apparatus is so constructed as to cook for the 
 whole establishment. | 
 
 Cooking utensils have been improved within the last. 
 ten years. 
 
 Perhaps the most useful cooking apparatuses are those 
 consisting of boilers, ovens, hot closets, &c. In these the 
 fire-place is situated about the middle of the erection, 
 and from it emanates flues in different directions, which 
 carry the smoke and heated vapour arising from the 
 fuel, and bring it in contact with external surfaces of the 
 several vessels and chambers, for the purpose of heating 
 them. Shey 
 
 The best are those in which the iron plate is not too 
 thick, and which is in several pieces joined together .by 
 rebate-edges, by which contrivance the expansions and 
 contractions caused by heat and cold are not so liable to 
 crack the metal, as is frequently the case when the hot 
 plate is made in one piece. | 
 
 Hot Plates were formerly made very thick, and con- 
 sequently, from the expansion, when heating, were often 
 broken across even the first time of using: an improve- 
 ment has been recently made by having a series of plates 
 cast very thin, and fitting in rebates within a large 
 frame. The plates are readily heated with very little 
 fuel, added to which an oven may, and is often applied at 
 

 
 THE KITCHEN. 7 
 
 ene end, which is made ready for baking bread, by the 
 superfluous heat that would otherwise be wasted. 
 
 A Brotling and Stewing Plate has been invented, 
 which is one of the most useful articles that can be put 
 up in a kitchen, very economical both in its cost and use; 
 it is suitable for boiling, stewing, frying, and for broiling ; 
 the construction is simple, the fuel is supplied at the top, 
 the draft is easily regulated, it can be fixed in any 
 situation, and forms an excellent laundry stove, when 
 required for that purpose. 
 
 Bain Marie Pans, or water-bath for keeping gravies, 
 soups, &c., ata boiling heat, are very useful. These are used 
 by having boiling water put in the lower part, and then 
 placed upon a hot plate to keep that water boiling ; the 
 gravies are in separate pans or vessels above the water. 
 
 Ranges are now generally made with boilers at the 
 back and side, for supplying hot water, which boilers 
 should always be made of hammered iron ; they are then 
 not liable to injury from neglect. They can also be used. 
 as steam-boilers, for the purpose of boiling fish, pudding, 
 meat, and vegetables by steam. Steam is also used for 
 warming hot closets, kettles, &e. 
 
 Ovens are of various sorts ; the most usual are attached 
 to the range, and heated from the same fire, with or 
 without flues ; but the best and most efficient are detached 
 and fixed with a furnace door, to heat by a separate fire. | 
 
 Jacks for Roasting are of various kinds ; the common 
 sort is called the bottle-jack from its shape, and roasts 
 vertically ; it will answer for a single joint of any mode- 
 rate weight, say as much as 28\b. 
 
 Smoke-Jacks carry two or more spits as far as twelve, 
 and will carry any weight or number of joints that may 
 be required, made to the particular situation for which 
 they are wanted; but those most usually fixed ca 
 three spits, having a vertical motion in addition to the 
 spits, for the purpose of roasting small birds, game, &c. 
 
 The Wind-up Jacks formerly used. are now superseded 
 by the smoke-jack, which has more power, and much 
 superior, the use of weights being unnecessary. Smoke= 
 
8 THE KITCHEN. 
 
 jacks can now be made to answer in any chimney, how-' 
 
 ever small. 
 
 Roasting Apparatus.—There is also a convenient and 
 
 cheap apparatus for roasting, combining a screen or re- 
 flector, with a dripping-pan, hot-closet underneath for 
 plates and dishes, having a spring jack which roasts hori- 
 zontally, with a spit in the same manner as a smoke- 
 jack would do. This is very portable, requires no fixing, 
 and can be used in any room having a fire-place. 
 
 Meat Screens are made deeper than formerly, and 
 have the addition of a hot closet enclosed at the top, for 
 keeping hot-joints ready for serving. . 
 
 Spits are of various kinds, the usual sort having a 
 
 wheel at one end to receive the chain of the jack, and 
 pointed at the other, the sizes adapted to the joints and 
 range. 
 
 Cradle Spits are constructed to receive the joint of 
 meat without being run through. An improved sort has 
 lately been constructed, by which any joint placed within 
 the cradie will revolve round in a circle, and every part 
 be equally exposed to the fire. This is called the double 
 revolving cradle-spit. | 
 
 The Potato Pasty-Pan is an economical article, 
 affording the advantages of flour pastry without the 
 expense. When used, season your meat and place it in 
 the bottom of the pan, adding a piece of butter and a 
 little water; then put the perforated plate in its place 
 with its valve-pipe screwed on; mashed potatoes with a 
 little milk are to be laid on this, filling up the whole 
 space to the top of the tube, and finishing the surface in 
 any ornamental manner you choose. The knob being 
 now placed at the end of the tube, it may be sent to the 
 oven. If carefully baked, the potatoes will be covered 
 with a delicate brown crust, retaining all the savoury 
 steam rising from the meat. 
 
 Double saucepans are made of various kinds for glaze 
 gravies, milk, rice, or any other articles which are liable 
 to injury from burning, which these double saucepans 
 entirely prevent. 
 

 
 THE KITCHEN. 9g 
 
 The Digester is a very useful contrivance of modern 
 date, and by its aid a soup is cheaply produced from 
 bones, &c. 
 
 In filling the digester, Jeave room enough for the 
 steam to pass off through the valve at the top of the 
 cover. This may be done by filling it only three parts 
 full of water and bruised bones or meat, all put in toge- 
 ther. It must then be placed near a slow fire, so as 
 only to simmer, for the space of eight or ten hours. 
 The soup is to be then strained through a hair-sieve or 
 cullender, and to be put into the digester again. The 
 whole, with the necessary spices and vegetables, is to be 
 well boiled together for an hour or two, and it will then 
 be fit for immediate use. 
 
 A professed cook requires in her kitchen the following 
 implements :— 
 
 A range, smoke-jack, dripping-pan, and basting ladle, 
 gridirons, steak-tongues, charcoal stoves, hot plate, oven, 
 boiler for steam, steam-kettles, hot closet, boiler for hot 
 water heated by steam, stock-pots, stew-pans, preserving 
 pans, pickling pans, braising pans, frying-pans of dif- 
 ferent sizes, one large for fish, cutlet and omelet pans, 
 pan and spoons for poached eggs, turtle pans, turbot 
 kettles, oven peels, one cradle spit, others of meat, birds, 
 &e., various sized iron skewers, set of kitchen knives, 
 beef fork, choppers, meat and cutlet chopper, screen, 
 dish covers, graters, spice-box, seasoning box, flour, 
 pepper and cayenne dredgers, ragout spoons, ladles, jelly 
 and pudding moulds, pepper and spice mills, pestle and 
 mortars of marble, larding needles, tin drains for fried 
 fish, cullenders, patty-pans, cutters for pastry, vegetables, 
 string boxes, sugar canisters, cookholds, balance meat 
 hooks, brass and copper spoon for pickling and _pre- 
 serving, tin Yorkshire-pudding dishes of different sizes, 
 baking plates, cake tins, fish-slices, fish-drains to fit the 
 steamers, meat-stands, salamander and pig irons, steel 
 ege-poachers and egg-boilers, fritter irons, lamps, and 
 
 to these must be superadded an ink-stand and file for 
 
 memorandums. 
 
10 ~ TRUSSING. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 
 
 Although the poulterers in London truss all the dif- 
 ferent animals which they send home, yet, as it often 
 happens, that untrussed game and poultry are sent to 
 private families from the country, it is necessary that the 
 art of trussing should be known by every cook, as well 
 as, indeed, to the mistress of a family; and to persons 
 in the country these directions are indispensable. 
 
 In trussing, the following rules must be carefully 
 attended to. Take care that all the stubs be perfectly 
 removed ; and when poultry or game is drawn, observe 
 particularly not to break the gall-bladder: for, if any of 
 the gall be spilt about the bird, it will impart to it a bitter 
 taste, which neither washing nor wiping can wholly re- 
 move. 
 
 TurkEy.— When the turkey is properly picked, break 
 the leg-bone close to the foot, and draw out the strings 
 from the thigh. Cut off the neck close to the back, 
 leaving the crop-skin sufficiently long to turn over to the 
 back. Next, take out the crop, and loosen the liver and 
 gut at the throat end, with the middle finger; then cut 
 off the vent and take out the gut. Pull out the gizzard 
 with a crooked sharp-pointed iron, and the liver will © 
 follow. Wipe out the inside perfectly clean with a wet 
 cloth. Cut the breast-bone through on each side close 
 to the back, and draw the legs close to the crop. Put 
 a cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone down with 
 a rolling: pin till it lies flat. : 
 
 TURKEY FoR BOILING.—If the turkey is to be trussed 
 for boiling, cut the legs off ; then put your middle finger 
 into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, and put them 
 under the apron of the turkey. Put a skewer in the 
 joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and 
 run it through the body and the other leg and wing. 
 The liver and gizzard must be put in the pinions, care 
 being taken to open previously the gizzard and take out 
 the filth ; the gall-bladder must also be removed from 
 

 
 TRUSSING. 11 
 
 the liver ; then turn the small end of the pinion on the 
 back, and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to 
 keep them in their places. 
 
 Turkey FoR Roastinc.—If the turkey is to be 
 roasted, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of 
 the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer 
 through the middle of the leg and body. On the other 
 side put another skewer in at the small part of the leg, 
 close on the outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer 
 through, and the same on the other side. Put the liver 
 and gizzard between the pinions, and turn the points of 
 the pinions on the back. Put, close above the pinions, 
 another skewer through the body of the turkey. 
 
 Turkey Povuuts should be trussed thus :—Separate 
 the neck from the head and body, but do not remove the 
 neck-skin. They must be drawn in the same manner as 
 a turkey. Puta skewer through the joint of the pinion, 
 tuck the legs close, run the skewer through the middle of 
 the leg, through the body, and so on the other side. Cut 
 off the under part of the bill, twist the skin round the 
 neck, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with 
 the bill end forward. Another skewer must be put in 
 the sidesman, and the legs be placed between the sides- 
 man and apron on each side; pass the skewer through 
 all, and cut off the toe-nails. Some lard them on the 
 breast. The liver and gizzard may or may not be used, 
 as you choose. 
 
 Goosr.— Having picked and stubbed it clean, cut the 
 feet off at the joint, and the pinion off at the first joint. 
 Then cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the skin 
 of the neck long enough to turn over the back. Pull out 
 the throat, and tie a knot at the end. Loosen the liver 
 and other matters at the breast with your middle finger, 
 and cut it open between the vent and rump. Next draw 
 out all the entrails, excepting the soal. Wipe out the 
 body clean with a wet cloth, and beat the breast-bone 
 flat with a rolling-pin. Put a skewer into the wing, and 
 draw the legs close up; put the skewer through the middle 
 of the leg, and through the body; do the same on the 
 
12 TRUSSING. 
 
 other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, 
 tuck it close down to the sidesman, and run it through; 
 do the same on the other side. Cut off the end of the 
 vent, and make a hole large enough to admit the rump, 
 as it holds the seasoning much better by such means. 
 
 Ducks are trussed in the same manner as geese, except 
 that the feet are left on the ducks, and are turned close 
 to the legs. 
 
 Fow.s must first be picked very clean, and the neck 
 cut off close to the back. Put your finger into the in- 
 side, and raise the skin of the legs; cut a hole in the top 
 of the skin, and put the legs under. Put a skewer in 
 the first joint of the pinion; bring the leg close to it; 
 put the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through 
 the body; do the same on the other side. Having opened 
 the gizzard, take out the filth, and remove the gall- 
 bladder from the liver; put the gizzard and liver in the 
 pinions, and turn the points of the pinions on the back, 
 tying a string over the tops of the legs, to keep them in 
 their proper place. 
 
 Fowu ror Roastine.—lIf the fowl is to be roasted, 
 put a skewer in the first joimt of the pinion, and bring 
 the middle of the leg close toit. Put the skewer through 
 the middle of the leg and through the body; do the same 
 on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of 
 the leg, and through the sidesman; do the same on the 
 other side. Put another skewer through the skin of the 
 feet, the nails of which must be cut off. 
 
 CHICKENS must be picked and drawn in the same 
 manner as fowls. But, as their skins are so tender, if they 
 be plunged in scalding water, and taken out as soon as 
 the feathers will readily slip off, the trouble of picking 
 will be much abridged. 
 
 If to be boiled, cut off the nails, give the sinews a nick 
 on each side of the joint, put the feetin at the vent, and 
 then put in the rump. Draw the skin tightly over the 
 legs, put a skewer in the first jomt of the pinion, and 
 bring the middle of the leg close. Put the skewer 
 through the middle of the legs and through the body: 
 

 
 TRUSSING. 53 
 
 do the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and 
 
 separate the gall-bladder from the liver; put the liver and 
 
 Shr into the pinions, and turn their points on the 
 ack. 
 
 If to be roasted, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the 
 first joint of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg 
 close. Run the skewer through the middle of the leg 
 and through the body; do the same on the other side. 
 Put another skewer into the sidesman, and run the skewer 
 through. Having cleaned the liver and gizzard, put 
 them in the pinions, the points of which must be turned 
 on the back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck. 
 
 WiLp-Frow..— Having picked them clean, cut off the 
 neck close to the back, and with the middle finger loosen 
 the liver and guts next the breast. Cut off the pinions 
 at the first joint, then cut a slit between the vent and 
 rump, and draw them clean. Clean them properly with 
 the long feathers on the wing; cut offthe nails, and turn 
 the feet close to the legs. Put askewer into the pinions, 
 pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer 
 ‘through the legs, body, and other pinion. Cut off the 
 vent, and then put the rump through it. These direc- 
 tions will answer for every kind of wild fowl. 
 
 Picrons must first be picked, and then let the neck be 
 cut off close to the back. Take out the crop, cut off the 
 vent, and draw out the guts and gizzard, but leave in 
 the liver; a pigeon having no gall-bladder. 
 
 If the pigeon is to be roasted, cut off the toes, cut a 
 slit in one of the legs, and put the other through it. 
 Draw the leg tight to the pinion, put a skewer through 
 the pinions, and turn the point on the back. 
 
 If for a pie, the feet of the pigeon must be cut off at 
 the joint; then turn the legs, and stick them in the sides 
 close to the pinions. If they are to be stewed or boiled, 
 they must be trussed in the same manner. | | 
 
 Woopcocks and Swipes are very tender to pick, par- 
 ticularly if not quite fresh; they must be, therefore, 
 handled with great care, and as little as possible. When 
 they are picked clean, cut off the pinions at the first 
 
14 TRUSSING, 
 
 joint, and with the handle of the knife beat the breast- 
 bone. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them 
 together at the joimts. Put the thighs close to the 
 pinions, put a skewer into the pinion, and run it through 
 the thighs, body, and the other pinion. Skin the head, 
 turn it, take out the eyes, and put the head on the point 
 of the skewer, with the bill close to the breast. 
 
 PLOvVERsS are trussed in the same manner. Wood- 
 cocks, snipes, and plovers must never be drawn, they 
 being dressed. with all their entrails. . 
 
 Larks, WHEAT-EARS, &c., being picked clean, must 
 have their heads cut off, and the pinions at the first joint. 
 Beat the breast-bone flat with the handle of a knife, 
 turn the feet close to the legs, and one into the other. 
 Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer through the 
 middle of the bodies of as many as you mean to dress; 
 they must be tied on the spit. 
 
 PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, AND Moor GAame.—Pick 
 them very clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck, take 
 out the crop, loosen the liver and the gut next the breast 
 with your fore-finger, then cut off the vent and draw 
 them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint, and wipe 
 out the inside with the pinion you have cut off; of course 
 the pinions need not be picked beyond the first joint. 
 Beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer 
 in the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close. 
 Then run the skewer through the legs, body, and the 
 other pinion; bring the head and put it on the end of the 
 skewer, the bill fronting the breast; put another skewer 
 into the sidesman, and put the legs close on each side the 
 apron, and then run the skewer through all. The 
 beautiful feathers on the head of the cock-pheasant must 
 be left, and paper put over them to screen them from 
 the fire. The long feathers in the tail must also be 
 preserved, to be stuck in the rump when roasted. 
 

 
 CARVING. 15 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON, AND DIRECTIONS FOR, 
 CARVING. 
 
 The wisdom or the folly of our ancestors esteemed 
 carving one of the minor accomplishments of polite life, 
 and Chesterfield, a century ago, made the art an object 
 of his pupils’ peculiar study. Though, from our more gene- 
 ral intercourse with the continent, and especially with 
 France, so much stress is not laid on carving as formerly, 
 yet it is considered an indispensable accomplishment 
 to a diner out, of even third-rate magnitude. To carve 
 quickly and neatly requires not only great practice, but 
 much observation ; and though no printed directions can 
 entirely supply the want of practice, still they may be con- 
 sidered as help and aid to the young carver. The choice 
 morsels of every dish, or such as are generally esteemed 
 such, should be known, otherwise the carver may be 
 deemed guilty of intentionally excluding some of the 
 guests from the enjoyment of the fat of the venison, the 
 kidney of the lamb, the firm parts of the cod’s head, the 
 thick part of the fins of the turbot, or the back of the 
 hare or rabbit, whereas his error is purely the result of 
 ignorance or inattention. To cut joints or poultry fairly, 
 neatly, and cleanly, and to distribute the good thing's of 
 the table equally, and without favour, thus contributing 
 to the greatest happiness of the greatest number is all 
 that can be expected of a carver. Ifthe cook has pre- 
 viously taken care that the bones in all carcass-joints are 
 properly divided, the operations of the carver will be 
 greatly facilitated. It is impossible for the most dexter- 
 ous carver toproceed with ease or comfort if this be neg 
 lected. In carving game or poultry for a large party, 
 where many look for a share of the same delicacy, what 
 is called “making wings” must be avoided ; the first 
 helpings should be cut the long way, from pinion to 
 pinion, and not made too large. 
 
16 CARVING. 
 
 Without further remarks we shall lay before our 
 readers the following observations on the art of carving, 
 none of which are original, as we have extracted them 
 with little alteration, from many sources :— 
 
 RULES AND DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING ALL SORTS 
 OF MEAT AT TABLE. 
 
 The carving-knife should be large, but light, and the 
 edge very sharp. In using it no great personal strength 
 is required, as constant practice will render it an easy 
 task to carve the most difficult joints ; depending on ad- 
 dress rather than force. In order to prevent trouble, how- 
 ever, joints of mutton, veal, lamb, &c. should be divided 
 by the butcher, when they may be easily cut through, 
 and fine slices of meat taken off from between every two 
 bones. 
 
 The more fleshy joints are to be cut in smooth slices, 
 neither too thick nor too thin, and in joints of beef and 
 mutton, the knife should always be passed down the bone. 
 by those who wish to carve with propriety, and great at- 
 tention should be paid to help every person to a por- 
 tion of the best parts. Fish should be carefully helped, 
 because, if the flakes are broken, the beauty of it is en- 
 tirely lost ; for which reason, a proper fish-slicer should 
 be used, (not, however, too large, ) and a part of the roe, 
 liver, &c., sent to each individual. The heads of cod, 
 salmon, carp, the fins of turbot, and sounds of cod, are 
 esteemed as delicacies, and, of course, some should be 
 sent to each person in company. 
 

 
 CARVING. 17 
 
 ‘NAMES OF THE SEVERAL JOINTS WHICH ARE SERVED 
 UP TO TABLE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mutton. 
 1. The leg. 5. The neck, scrag end. 
 2. —— loin, best end. 6. —— whole neck. 
 3. Join, chump end. 7. —— breast. 
 4, —— neck, best end. 8. —— saddle, or two loins. 
 Beef. 
 Hind-quarter. Fore-quarter. 
 1. The sirloin. 11. The middle-rib, four ribs. 
 2.. —— buttock. Mak 12. —— chuck, three ribs. 
 3. —— mouse-buttock. 13. —— shoulder, or leg of 
 4, —— veiny-picce. mutton piece. 
 5. ramp. 14, brisket. 
 6. edge-bone. ia. clod. 
 7. —— thick flank. 16. neck, or sticking- 
 8. —— thin flank. piece. . 
 9. leg. 17. —— shin. 
 10. fore-rib, five ribs. 18. —— cheek. 
 Veal. 
 1. The loin, best end. 6. The neck, best end. 
 2 chump-end, 7. —— neck, scrag end. 
 3. —— fillet. 8. —— blade-bone. 
 4, —— hind-knuckle. 9. breast, brisket-end. 
 5, ~—— fore-knuckle. 10. —— breast, best end. 
 Pork, 
 1. The spare-rib. 5. The hind-loin, 
 B57 hand. 6. —— leg. 
 3. —— belly, or spring. 7..—— chine. 
 4. —— fore-loin. 
 ; Venison. 
 1. The haunch. 3. The shoulder. 
 
 2. —— neck. 4, —— breast. 
 
 Cc 
 
18 CARVING» 
 
 A Lec or Murron if boiled, should be served in the 
 dish as it lies upon its back; but when roasted, the 
 under side, as here represented by the letter d, should 
 lie uppermost in the dish. This joint must be turned 
 towards the carver as it here lies, the shank being to the 
 left-hand : then holding it steady with his fork, he should 
 cut down through the fleshy part on the thigh quite to 
 the bone, in the direction a, 6, through the gland of 
 fat called the pope’s-eye. The most juicy parts are from 
 the line a, 6, upwards towards c. The fat lies chiefly 
 on the ridge e, e, and must be cut in the direction e. f. 
 The cramp-bone may be cut out by holding the shank- 
 bone with the left-hand, and with a knife cutting down 
 to the thigh-bone at the point d, then passing under the 
 cramp-bone in the direction d, c. 
 
 SHOULDER oF Murron.—The shank-bone should be 
 bound round with writing-paper, so that the carver may 
 turn it as he pleases. It should be first cut in the direction 
 a, b, the knife being passed quite to the bone. The best 
 fat lies on the outer edge e, and should be cut out in 
 thin slices in the direction of e, f. Some delicate slices 
 may be cut out’on each side of the ridge of the blade- 
 bone im the direction c, d: the line between the two 
 dotted lines is the direction in which the blade-bone lies, 
 and cannot be cut across. On the under side are two 
 parts very full of gravy: one is a deep cut close under 
 the shank, accompanied with fat, the other, the flap, is 
 lean. In almost all animals, delicate slices, marbled 
 with fat, are to be found along the back-bone. Good 
 fleshy slices, full of juice, though not very delicate in 
 the fibre, are to be got by turning the: shoulder over, 
 and cutting slantwise into the hollow part of the inside. 
 So various are tastes, that some persons prefer the 
 knuckle, though the driest and coarsest part of the 
 animal. Some modern carvers prefer cutting slices at 
 once right down from the knuckle to the broad end. 
 
 A Lc or Pork may be cut up as a leg of mutton. 
 
 Epce or ArtcH-BonE or Brerer.—This joint should 
 lie towards the carver as here represented. -A thicls 
 
7 
 
 LEG OF MUTTON. 
 
 
 
 EDGE OR AITCH BONE OF BEEF. 
 
 
 

 

 
7 - 
 
 
 
 A SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
 
 Yijy YZ 
 
 
 
 
 
 A BREAST OF VEAL. 
 
 
 
 Se Cg 
 
 
 
 HALF A CALFS HEAD. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FP. Becker& CF Sculp. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 CARVING. 19 
 
 slice should first be cut off the whole length of the joint, 
 beginning at a, and cutting it through the whole surface 
 from ato b. The soft fat lies on the back, below the 
 letter d; the firm fat is to be cut in thin horizontal 
 slices at the point c,—a is the skewer: it should be 
 drawn out before the dish is served up; or if it be ne- 
 cessary to leave the skewer in, it should be a silver 
 one. 
 
 A Sapvie or Murron.—Cut long slices in the fleshy 
 parts on both sides of the back-bone in the direction 
 a,b. If it be sent up with the tail, this may be readily 
 divided by eutting between the joints. Some persons 
 think that, besides being a more economical way of 
 carving, the meat is more delicately-grained, and eats 
 better, if a deep incision is made along the bone, and 
 ~ slices be taken crossways from thence. 
 
 A Breast or Vest Roastep should be first cut 
 quite through the line d, ¢; next cut it across in the 
 line a, c; from ¢ to the last a on the left, quite through, 
 dividing the gristly part from the rib-bones. The thick or 
 gristly part should be- cut into pieces as wanted in the 
 lines a, 6. A rib may be cut from the line d, ec, and 
 with a part of the breast, a slice of the sweetbread e, 
 cut across the middle. 
 
 A Spare-R1p oF Pork is carved by cutting slices from 
 the fleshy part, which will afford many good cuts ; the 
 fleshy parts being cut away, the bones may be easily dis- 
 jointed and separated. Apple-sauce is generally served 
 up with this dish. 
 
 Haur a Caur’s Heap Bortep should first be cut 
 quite along the cheek-bone, in the fleshy part, in the 
 direction c, 6, where several handsome slices may be 
 cut. In the fleshy part at the neck end will be found 
 part of the throat sweetbread, which may be cut into in 
 the line ec, d, and is esteemed the best part in the head. 
 The eye may be taken out of its socket a whole, by care- 
 fully forcing the point of the carving-knife down on 
 one side to the bottom of the socket, and cutting quite 
 round. The white, thick, wrinkled skin, on the under 
 
 c 2 
 
20 CARVING. 
 
 side of the roof of the mouth, called the palate, may be 
 easily separated from the bone with the knife, by lifting 
 the head up with the left-hand. Good meat will be 
 found covering the under-jaw, and some nice gristly fat 
 about the ear. ae als 
 The brains and tongue are generally served up in a 
 separate dish, in which case a slice from the thick part 
 of the tongue is the best. Mei Es.) 
 A Ham may be cut two ways: across in the line 
 b, c; or with the point of the carving-knife in the circle 
 in the middle, taking out a small piece as at ce, and cut- 
 ting thin slices in a circular direction, thus enlarging it 
 by degrees. The last method, although it preserves the 
 gravy and keeps the ham moist, is not often practised ; 
 the most saving way is to begin at the hock end at d. 
 
 
 
 A Hauwncu or VENISON must be first cut acrossdown ~- 
 
 to the bone in the line a, b, c, then turn the dish with 
 the end a towards you, put in the point of the knife at 
 6, and cut it down as deep as possible. in the direction 
 6, d, and take out as many slices as you please on the 
 right or left. The best flavoured and fattest slices will 
 be found on the left of the line 6, d, when the end d is 
 turned towards you. The slices should neither be cut 
 too thick nor too thin: plenty of gravy should be given 
 with them. . 
 
 Havuncn or Murron.—This consists of the leg and 
 part of the loin, cut so as to resemble a haunch of veni- 
 son, and must be carved in the same manner. 
 
 An Ox’s TonauE should be cut across, the best slices 
 being about the middle or between the middle and the 
 root. Slices of fat having a kernel with each may be con- 
 veniently cut from the root at the bottom of the dish. 
 
 Part OF A SrrLOIN OF Beer.—A part only of this 
 celebrated joint is here shown, the whole being too large 
 for most families. It is here represented standing up in 
 the dish, to show the inside or under part; but when 
 sent to table, it is always laid down, so that ¢ lies close on 
 the dish. The part c, d, then lies uppermost, and the line 
 a, 6, under the outside slice should be first cut off quite 
 
PART OF A SIRLOIN 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 OF BEEF. 
 

 

 
hs, 
 A FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A ROASTED PIG. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A HARIE o 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 eP. Boker & LF Sculp. 
 

 
 CARVING. 21 
 
 down to the bone in the direction ec. d. Plenty of mar- 
 rowy fat will be found underneath the ribs. To cut a 
 slice underneath, the joint must be turned up by taking 
 hold of the end of one of the ribs with the left-hand, 
 and raising it till it isin the position here represented. 
 One slice or more may now be cut in the direction of 
 the line a, b, passing the knife down to the bone. 
 
 A Burrock or Beer, sometimes called the Rounp, 
 should first have a thick slice cut off all round, after 
 which cut thin slices from the same place. As it is a 
 dish that is frequently brought to table cold on a second 
 day, it should always be cut handsome and even. 
 
 A Fixuer or VeAu.—The bone being taken out, 
 renders the helping of this piece very easy. Many per- 
 sons prefer the outside,—ask this; and if so, help them 
 to it, otherwise cut it off, and then continue to take oif 
 thin smooth slices ; observing to take from the flap (into 
 which you must cut deep), a portion of seasoning to every 
 slice, as likewise a small bit of fat. Lemon should inva- 
 riably be served with this joint. 
 
 A Fore QuaARTER oF LAMB RoastTepD must have 
 first the shoulder separated from the breast in the diree- 
 tion c,g, d, e; this being removed, pepper and salt are 
 sprinkled upon the separated parts ; some squeeze the 
 juice of a lemon or Seville orange upon it: lay the 
 shoulder again on the separated part. The gristly part 
 must next be separated from the ribs in the lme f, d. 
 The ribs may be separated from the rest in the line a, 6; 
 and a piece or two off in the lines h,7, &c. Lastly, the 
 shoulder may be put in another dish and carved like a 
 shoulder of mutton. 
 
 A Roasrep Pia is seldom sent to the table whole. 
 The head is eut off by the cook, the body split down the 
 back, and served up as here represented, the dish being 
 garnished with the chops and ears. The shoulder must 
 be first separated in a circular direction from the carcass, 
 as you take off the shoulder from a quarter of lamb. 
 The leg may be also separated in the same manner. 
 he triangular piece of the neck, which is the most delicate 
 
22 CARVING. 
 
 part of the pig, may now be cut off, and the ribs, which 
 is esteemed the next best part, may be easily divided. 
 
 A Hare.—Put in the point of the knife at g, and 
 cut it through all the way down to the rump, on the 
 side of the back-bone, in the line g, hk. Cut it similarly 
 on the other side. Then divide the back into several 
 small pieces, more or less, in the lines 2, & ; the pudding 
 with which the belly is stuffed is then readily to be got 
 at. The legs thus separated from the back-bone are 
 now to be cut off from the belly. The shoulders must 
 be cut off im the circular line e, f, g. The leg may also, 
 if desired, be divided from the thigh; which last is one 
 of the best parts of the hare. Cut off the ears at the 
 roots, and divide the head into two parts, by forcing the 
 point of the knife first through the skull in the middle, 
 between the ears, down to the nose. 
 
 This mode of cutting up a hare can only be adroitly 
 done when the animal is young. If old, eut off the 
 legs and shoulders first ; then cut off some long narrow 
 slices from each side of the baek-bone in the direction 
 g,h. Lastly, divide the back-bone into three or more 
 parts. The ears and brains are esteemed delicacies by 
 some. Great care must be taken by papering and 
 basting the ears to have them crisp. Before roasting, 
 they should be singed inside with a hot poker. 
 
 A Rassir is cut up in the same way as a hare, but 
 being’ smaller, after the legs are separated from the 
 body the back is divided into two or three parts, without 
 dividing it from the belly. 
 
 A Goosr.—Having the neck towards you, cut off 
 two or three long slices from each side of the breast- 
 bone in the lines a, 6. Then turn the goose on one 
 side, and putting the fork through the small end of the 
 leg-bone, and pressing it close to the body, the knife 
 being entered at d, will raise the joint, and the leg may 
 be taken off by passing the knife under it in the direc- 
 tion d, e. If the leg hang to the carcass at the joint e, 
 by turning it back, if the goose be young, it will readily 
 separate, if old with some difficulty. Next, take the 
 
 s 
 
 
 

 
A GOOSE. 
 
 
 
 A PHEASANT. 
 
 
 
 A PARTRIDGE. 
 
 PP Becher &C? scudp. 
 
 ~———y 
 

 
 CARVING. oA 
 
 wing off by passing the fork through the small end of 
 the pinion, pressing it close to the body, entering the 
 knife at the point c, and pressing it under the wing, in 
 the direction c, d ; there is a nicety required in hitting 
 this point, which a little practice will soon teach. When 
 the leg and wing on one side are taken off, take those off 
 on the other. Cut off the apron in the line e, f, g, then 
 the merry-thought in the line 7, h. The neck-bones are 
 next to be separated as in the directions for carving a 
 fowl, and all other parts of the goose must be separated 
 as there directed. 
 
 A GREEN Goosz is also cut up in the same way. 
 
 A PuHeEasant.—The fork should be fixed in the 
 breast so that the bird may be held firmly. Cut slices 
 from the breast in the lines a, 6, and proceed to take off 
 the leg on one side in the direction d, e. Then cut off 
 the wing on the same side in the line c, d. Separate 
 the leg and wing on the other side, and then cut off the 
 parts you before sliced from the breast. Be careful in 
 taking off the wing to cut in the proper notch ; for if 
 you cut too near the neck you will find the neck-bone 
 interfere, from which, of course, the wing must be sepa- 
 rated. The merry-thought must now be cut off in the 
 line f, g, by passing the knife under it towards the neck. 
 The remaining parts must be cut up as described under 
 fowl. ‘The prime bits are the same as in a fowl, but 
 some fancy the brains. 
 
 A PartrmGce.—The skewers must be taken out be- 
 fore it is sent to table, and it is then to be carved 
 in the same manner as a fowl. The wings, breast, and 
 merry-thought, are the prime parts. 
 
 A Fows is cut up in the same way whether roasted or 
 boiled. The legs, wings, and merry-thought are to be 
 taken off in the way mentioned under pheasant. The 
 fowl is here represented on its side, with one of the legs, 
 wings, and neck-bones taken off. The leg, wing, and 
 merry-thought being removed, cut off the neck-bones, 
 which is done by putting in the knife at g, and passing 
 it under the long broad part of the bones in the line g, 
 6, then lifting it up and breaking off the end of the 
 
D4 GARVING. 
 
 shorter part of the bone which is attached to the breast- 
 bone. Divide the breast from the back by cutting 
 through the tender ribs on each side from the neck 
 down to the tail. Then lay the back upwards on your 
 plate, fix your fork in the rump, and laying the edge of 
 your knife in the line 6, c, c, and, pressing it down, lift 
 up the tail part of the back, and it will readily divide, 
 with the assistance of the knife in the line 6, c. Lastly, 
 lay the tail part of the back upwards in your plate with 
 the rump from you, and cut off the side bones by forcing 
 the knife through the rump-bone in the linese, f. By 
 very little practice you may cut the whole of one side of | 
 the fowl, 2. e. the leg and wing, in one direct line. 
 
 A TurKry, whether roasted or boiled, is sent to 
 _ table like a,fow], and cut up in every respect like a 
 pheasant. 
 
 A Picron (No. | is the back, No 2 is the breast,) is 
 sometimes cut up as a chicken, but most commonly by 
 fixing the fork at the point a, entering the knife just be- 
 fore it, and dividing the pigeon in two, according to the — 
 lines a, 6, and a, c, in No. 1 ; at the same time bringing 
 the knife out at the back in the direction a, 6, and a, ec, 
 No. 2. 
 
 A Cop’s-HEApD, and, indeed, fish generally, require 
 few directions for carving. The middle or thickest part 
 of a fish is esteemed the best. . When cut, it should be 
 either with a spoon or fish-slice. The gelatinous pieces 
 about the neck and head are prized, and must be helped 
 if asked for ; also small slices of the sound. The palate 
 and tongue may be got at with a spoon, if it be wished; 
 but these are rather the fantastic than prime parts. Some 
 cut. the fish longways; but the above is perhaps the 
 fairer mode Take off a :piece quite down to the bone 
 in the directions a, 6, d, c, putting in the spoon at a,c; 
 with each slice of fish give a piece of the sound, which 
 lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of 
 which is thin and somewhat darker-coloured than the 
 body of the fish itself. . 
 
 Bortep Satmon.—The belly is the fattest. In earv- 
 ing, it is desirable, unless objected to, to give a slice of 
 
 
 
ao -2 
 
 
 
 A PIGEON. 
 
 
 
 
 
 We 
 
 
 
 NTS ee . 
 z y, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BOILED SALMON. 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 ON LAYING OUT A TABLE. 26 
 
 the back and belly to each person: for the one cut it in 
 the direction d, c, the other in the line a, 6. 
 
 Soues are generally sent to English tables two ways, 
 fried and boiled. Cut them across the middle, bone and 
 all, and give a piece of the fish, a third or fourth part, 
 toeach person. ‘The same may be done with other fishes, 
 eutting them across. _ 
 
 - Eris are to be cut into pieces of about three inches 
 long. The thickest part is reckoned the best. 
 
 ON LAYING OUT A TABLE. 
 
 _ The manner of laying out a table is nearly the same 
 in all parts of the United Kingdom: yet there are trifling 
 local peculiarities to which the mistress of a house must 
 attend. A centre ornament, whether it be a dormant, 
 a plateau, an epergne, or a candelabra, is found so con- 
 venient, and contributes so much to the good appearance 
 of the table, that a fashionable dinner is now seldom or 
 never set out without something of this kind. 
 
 Utility should be the true principle of beauty, at least 
 in affairs of the table, and, above all, in the substantial 
 first course. A very false taste is, however, often 
 shown in centre ornaments. Strange ill-assorted nose- 
 gays, and bouquets of artificial flowers, begin to droop 
 or look faded among hot steams. Ornamental articles 
 of family plate, carved, chased, or merely plain, can 
 never be out of place, however old-fashioned. In des- 
 serts, richly-cut glass is ornamental. We are far, also, 
 from proscribing the foliage and moss in which fruits 
 are sometimes seen bedded. The sparkling imitation of 
 frost-work, which is given to preserved fruits and other 
 things, is also exceedingly beautiful; as are many of the 
 trifles belonging to French and Italian confectionary. 
 
 Beautifully white damask, and a green cloth under- 
 neath, are indispensable. 
 
 In all ranks, and in every family, one important art. in 
 housekeeping: is to make what remains from one day’s 
 entertainment contribute to the elegance or plenty of the 
 next day’s dinner. This is a principle understood by 
 
26 ON LAYING OUT A TABLE. 
 
 persons in the very highest ranks of society, who main- 
 tain the most splendid and expensive establishments. 
 Vegetables, ragouts, and soups, may be re-warmed ; and 
 jellies and blancmange remoulded, with no deterioration 
 of their qualities. Savoury or sweet patties, croquets, 
 rissoles, vol-au-vents, fritters, tartlets, &c., may be 
 served with almost no cost, where cookery is going for-. 
 ward on a large scale. In the French kitchen, a nu- 
 merous class of culinary preparations, called entrées de 
 dessert, or made-dishes of left things, are served even 
 at grand entertainments. ) 5 
 
 At dinners of any pretension, the first course consists 
 of soups and fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham, or 
 tongue, roasts, stews, &c. ; and of vegetables, with a few 
 made-dishes, as ragouts, curries, hashes, cutlets, patties, 
 fricandeaux, &c., in as great variety as the number of 
 dishes permits. For the second'course, roasted poultry 
 or game at the top and bottom, with dressed vegetables, 
 omelets, macaroni, jellies, creams, salads, preserved 
 fruit, and all sorts of sweet things and pastry, are em- 
 ployed,~—endeavouring to give an article of each sort, 
 as a jelly and a cream, as will be exemplified in bills of 
 fare which follow. This is a more common arrangement 
 than three courses, which are attended with so much 
 additional trouble both to the guests and servants. 
 
 Whether the dinner be of two or three courses, it is 
 managed nearly in the same way. ‘Two dishes of fish 
 dressed in different ways—if suitable—should occupy 
 the top and bottom; and two soups, a white anda 
 brown, or a mild and a high-seasoned, are best disposed 
 on each side of the centre-piece: the fish-sauces are placed 
 between the centre piece, and the dish of fish to which 
 each is appropriate ; and this, with the decanted wines 
 drunk during dinner, forms the first course. When there 
 are rare French or Rhenish wines, they are placed in 
 the original bottles, in ornamented wine-vases, between 
 the centre-piece and the top and bottom dishes; or if 
 four kinds, they are ranged round the plateau. If one 
 bottle, it is placed in a vase in the centre. 
 
 Tue Seconp Course at a purely English dinner, 
 

 
 
 
 -—- «FIRST COURSE. 
 
 
 
 MULIGATAWNEE, 
 GRAVY SOUP 
 
 
 
 aS 
 
 ly 
 
 he) 
 
 CRIMPED SLICES OF CoD |/%, 
 
 SALMON PEALE 
 remove 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF ROAST. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 Lobster and Oyster 
 
 ESO). y 
 
 
 
 
 ) ND COURS 
 
 St EEO, 
 
 bs | A PHEASANT ("4 
 WITH CRESSES. |= 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 al crea — 
 
 
 
 | 
 DARIOLE : 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FP Becher & C2 scalp. 
 
 
 
 JANUARY. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 FRBRUARY. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 SOUP 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \\ 
 
 EPERGNE. / q 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 4 SAUTE OF BEEF \ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SS 
 = 
 gS) TURBOT. boon, 
 i LOBSTER SAUCE Sy : 
 rg | remove | 
 
 
 
 \ Be ae HAM, GLAZED, 
 
 RAND SPINACH. (5 
 
 <a 
 
 
 
 
 SE, 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 Se = 
 
 i 
 
 IF Il 
 
 » “ne 
 tears 
 
 a 
 
 7 
 
 = 
 
 IRS 
 
 € COURSE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 4{ POTAGE DE SANT, )\ 
 PALESTINE SOUP, |W 
 
 i! remove 
 \ LOIN OF VEAL BONED | )% 
 4 | WE % 
 
 1a, 
 
 M4 
 
 N 
 
 Ny % 
 
 \y | 
 
 Ni i be 
 SSS Oe 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DUBLIN BAY HADDOCK) } 
 
 MULLET EN PAPILOTTE) fay 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 
 
 ZEA I INLING 
 
 SRE eee 
 
 remove | ES 
 (PARSLEY |) 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF. Gam 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SAS ANAS 
 
 : 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 WILD DUCKS. 
 remove 
 RICE SOUFFIEE. | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 EPERGNE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 QUAILS, 
 remove 
 
 
 
 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 1, WS y 
 'RAVIGOTTE (3) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SENET PAS. 
 
 
 
 
 x i 
 SSS 
 
 
 
 FP Becker & CO? sculp. 
 

 

 
 RAP RTS. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 POTAGE ALA sean 
 VERMICELLI SOUP, | 
 
 
 
 
 [{zacour SAUCE | : 
 
 
 
 fe “aa XK 
 pais de 4 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Z 
 
 ee CHA 
 
 
 
 
 
 remove . 
 HAUNCH OF LAMB. 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 EPERGNE. 
 
 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 a ee 
 a 
 GREEN ae 
 
 remove 
 RAMEQUINS. , 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 (a7 2 GUINEA FOWLE NS 
 1 PIQUE, lod, 
 
 ee remove | 
 MUFFIN PUDDING. 7% 
 
 ae 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 v) 
 LOBSTER i 
 
 aot 
 7 
 
 
 
 LOBSTER 
 SALAD. 
 
 
 
Ee geting 
 
 a 
 
 
 
FIRST COURSE. 
 
 acs 
 GREEN PEAS SOUP, 
 
 ——) =Pemove ; 
 2 BOILED CHICKENS, 
 CREAM SAUCE, WITH A 
 <°) GLAZED TONGUE, BETWEEN |} 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CUTLETS OF 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SWEETBREADS a Me LAMB, 
 MUSHROOM ASPARAGUS 
 SAUCE. % qh? PEAS. 
 ae 
 EPERGNE. 
 
 ae 
 
 iw 
 y 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -{ TENDONS OF 5 
 | VEAL, | 
 TOMATA 
 SAUCE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Oy 
 a | 
 LOBSTER SAUCE, 
 
 remove 
 ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON g 
 
 fi 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SEConp couRS®* 
 > 
 A CAPON WITH CRESSES |S 
 remove 
 CABINET PUDDING. 
 
 
 
 
 
 VANILLA 
 
 
 
 
 CREAM. 
 
 
 
 
 MARBLE 
 
 JELLY. 
 
 
 
 4 PIGEONS, 
 
 remove 
 GINGER SOUFFLEE. 
 
 
 
 LP. Backer & CP scudp. 
 
 MAY. 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 f\ WHITE GIBLET SOUP, 
 
 SOUP JULIENNE, 
 remove 
 
 A SMALL FORE Q® OF LAMB) 
 
 SLO VOD Aa wyZ : 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ND 
 
 (ms 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 {01 OF 
 y p Sait dea 
 
 
 
 
 ONG 
 
 
 
 Mi 
 
 
 
 ie) 
 
 on GENEVOISE SAUCE, | 
 remove. 
 
 ‘abana Seas MUTTON. 
 
 
 
 = 
 SAWS 
 iY 
 
 
 
 
 
 Perron 
 ee 
 
 
 
 
 
 > iaaiy 
 
 
 
 a) 
 
 
 
 (FFFa FEW 
 2 : 
 
 ie 
 WITH TRIFLE 2 
 
 remove 
 
 
 
 FONDUES. 
 
 
 
 FIR Becker & CO? scoulp. 
 

 
 
 

 
 ON LAYING OUT A TABLE. 2% 
 
 when there are three, consists of roasts and. stews for the 
 top and bottom; turkey or fowls, or fricandeau, or ham 
 garnished, or tongue, for the sides; with small made- 
 dishes for the corners, served in covered dishes; as 
 palates, currie of any kind, ragout or fricassee of rab- 
 bits, stewed mushrooms, &c. &c. 
 
 Tue Turrp Course consists of game, confectionary, 
 the more delicate vegetables dressed in the French way, 
 puddings, creams, jellies, &c. 
 
 Caraffes, with the tumblers belonging to and placed 
 over them, are laid at proper intervals. Where hock, 
 champagne, &ec. &c. are served, they are handed round 
 between the courses. When the third course is cleared 
 away, cheese, butter, a fresh salad, or sliced cucumber, 
 are usually served; and the finger-glasses, precede the 
 dessert. At many tables, particularly in Indian houses, 
 it is customary merely to hand quickly round a glass 
 vessel or two filled with simple, or simply perfumed tepid 
 water, made by the addition of a little rose or lavender 
 water, or a home-made strained infusion of rose-leaves 
 or lavender spikes. Into this water each guest may dip 
 the corner of his napkin, and with this refresh his lips 
 and the tips of his fingers. 
 
 Tue DessErt, at an English table, may consist merely 
 of two dishes of fine fruit for the top and bottom; com- 
 
 _mon or dried fruits, filberts, &c., for the corners or sides, 
 
 and a cake for the middle, with ice-pails in hot weather. 
 Liqueurs are at this stage handed round; and the wines 
 usually drank after dinner are placed decanted on the 
 table along with the dessert. The ice-pails and plates 
 are removed as soon as the company finish theirice. This 
 may be better understood by following the exact arrange- 
 ment of what is considered a fashionable dinner of three 
 courses and a dessert. 
 
 MEMORANDUM RESPECTING DrinnERS.—Select from 
 each Chapter under the head of Soup, Fish, &c. &c., 
 to make your Bill of Fare, according to the season and 
 number of your company. When you have two roasts, 
 they should bear no resemblance to each other—z. e., 
 one white and the other brown. 
 
yin: -  -BILLS OF FARE. 
 “4 DINNER OF THREE COURSES, WITH CHEESE-COURSE 
 AND DESSERT. 
 FIRST COURSE." 
 Turbot boiled. 
 
 
 
 oO ch) 
 Sl Lobster or Dutch 2 = 
 = Sauce. ae = x 
 s 3s 
 fs Wine Vase. g 
 i=) 
 Wine. = Epergne. & Wine. 
 S Wine Vase. 8 
 2 ! g 
 Fish Sauce. S 
 3 a 3 
 =| Filet de Sole or au A 
 -E Gratin a la Normande. = 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Turkey roasted with Truffles. 
 --%  Sweetbreads. A clear Spanish Currie in 3 
 Sauce. Rice border. (<= 
 = | S 
 3 Wine Vase. 
 =| ro 
 j=) o 
 2 3 
 wt al . . 
 Wine. 8 Epergne. 8 Wine. 
 me co) 
 g SS 
 3 5 
 Wine Vase. se 
 9 Pork 3s 
 rie! Cutlets. -— 
 igs S 
 
 Glazed & Venison Sauce. Patties. 
 Tomata Sauce. ft an 
 
 Haunch of Venison or Mutton. 
 
 * Itis not in general the custom to place the fish sauces on the 
 table, but so placed they are always most accessible, unless in es- 
 tablishments where there is a servant to every guest. Itisa 
 great convenience to have the sauce near you when you want it. 
 
 Cieege clerncas 
 
BILLS OF FARE. 29 
 
 THIRD COURSE. 
 
 Two Turkey Poults. 
 
 Jelly. Sauce Tureen. . Small Pastry. 
 Macaroni Pudding. 
 
 ; 5 
 
 = Wine Vase. + 
 
 iG 6 
 
 eS Trifle ornamented. 2 
 
 2 
 
 e Wine Vase. 2 
 
 A 
 
 Russian Cranberry Tart. 
 Tartlets. Sauce Tureen. Italian Cream. 
 
 Grouse roasted. 
 
 
 
 Directions for placing the Cheese, &c. after Dinner. 
 
 | Gruyére, Roquefort, 
 or Stilton. 
 
 Butter, 
 
 In forms, slices, or 
 
 Salad. 
 
 pats. 
 
 Cheese Biscuits or 
 Shred Cucumber. 
 
 Parmesan rasped, and 
 in a covered glass dish, or Neufchatel Cream Cheese. 
 
 (Next come the Finger-glasses.) 
 
30 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 THE DESSERT. 
 
 Lemon Ice. 
 Grapes. >. 
 a Sugar Basin. & 
 Se % 
 Ss Q%, 
 & oy 
 Cut Glasses. eo 
 ; Savoy Cake, 
 Ginger Cakes. on an elevated Stand. Wafers. 
 2 Cut Glasses. 
 “Gy 
 Ms, Cl 
 Y Waiter Jug. se 
 g - 
 . cu 
 Gy Melon. 
 
 Pine-apple or Vanille Ice.* 
 
 BILLS OF FARE 
 FOR PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS. 
 
 DINNERS OF FIVE DISHES. 
 
 Peas or Mulligatawney Soup. 
 
 Potatoes browned Apple Dumpling, Mashed Turnip . 
 
 below the Roast. or Plain Fritters. or Pickles. 
 Roast Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 
 
 * Ice is also handed round, or served, before the dessert. This 
 dessert may be made more full by a few small dishes of wafers 
 brandy-scrolls, or dried small fruit. 
 
 aver 
 

 
 BILLS OF FARE. 31 
 Haddocks boiled, with Parsley, and Butter Sauce. 
 Potatoes. Newmarket Pudding. Rice or Pickles. 
 
 Haricot, Currie Hash, or Grill, 
 Of the Mutton of the former day. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal Ragott, or with Rice. 
 Stewed Endive. A Charlotte. Potatoes. 
 
 Roast of Pork, or Pork Chops—Sage Sauce, or Sauce Piquante. 
 
 Boiled Cod, with Oyster, Egg, or Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Potatoes. Mutton Broth. Carrots or Turnips. 
 
 Scrag of Mutton, 
 with Caper Sauce, or Parsley and Butter. 
 
 Cod Currie, or a Béchemel, of the Fish of former day. 
 Scolloped Oysters, Rice-Pudding.. Mashed Potatoes 
 Roast Ribs of Beef. 
 
 Bouilli, garnished with Onions. 
 
 Beef Cecils, of the 
 Marrow Bones. Soup of the Bouilli. Roast Ribs of the 
 former day. 
 Lamb Chops; with Potatoes. 
 
 Vegetables on the Side- Table. 
 
 Potage a la Clermont. 
 ( Remove—Fish in Brown Sauce.) 
 Stewed Celery. Fruit Pie. Spinach. 
 Fillet of Veal stuffed. 
 
32 BILLS OF FARE- 
 Boiled Fowl, or Fricandeau of Veal on Sorrel. — 
 
 Currie of Veal abt Macedoine of 
 in Rice Casserole. Pancakes. Vegetables. 
 
 Pickled Pork, or Salted, or Corned, or Boiled Beef. 
 
 Crimped Cod. 
 Shrimp Sauce. 5 
 Ragout of Pigeons. Soup. Carrots and Turnips. 
 
 Small Round of Beef with Greens, 
 or Fillet of Beef roasted, 
 garnished with Horseradish. 
 
 Brill, 
 with Caper and Bulier Sauce, or Parsley and Butter. 
 pate Hotch-potch. Potatoes. 
 
 in Sauce blanche. 
 
 Loin of Veal roasted, 
 or Blanquettes de Veau. . 
 
 GOOD FAMILY DINNERS OF SEVEN DISHES. 
 
 Crimped Salmon. 
 
 Lobster Sauce, or Parsley and Butter. 
 Mashed Potatoes, 
 
 in small shapes. Mince Pies, or Rissoles. 
 Irish Stew. . 
 (Remove—Apple-pie.) 
 Oxford Dumplings. — Mince Veal, 
 ' Pickles. 
 
 Roast of Beef. 
 
 
 

 
 BILLS OF FARE. deg 
 
 Irish Stew, or Haricot of Mutton. 
 
 Chickens. Mashed Potatoes. 
 Fritters. 
 
 Tongue on Spinach, 
 
 Apple Sauce. or a Piece of Ham. 
 
 Stubble Goose. 
 
 
 
 ‘Fried Soles. 
 Savoury Patties. Onion Soup. Salad. 
 (Remove—A. Charlotte.) 
 Macaroni. Sliced Cucumber. Veal Sweetbreads. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton roasted. 
 
 
 
 Herrings, with Dutch Sauce. 
 
 (Remove—Cutlets 4 Chingara.) 
 
 Scolloped Potatoes. Apple Puffs. 
 Marrow Pudding. : 
 
 Tartlets, Mashed Turnip, 
 
 or Sweet Patties. or Green Peas. 
 
 Gigdt of Mutton boiled, with Caper Sauce. 
 (Remove— Roast Ducks.) 
 
 A SMALL DINNER IN COURSES, WITH DESSERT, Wc. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Mock-Turtle Soup. 
 Turbot. 
 
 Oyster, Lobster, or Fennel Sauce, and Cucumber sliced thick, 
 disposed either on the Table or Sideboard; and the Fish and 
 Soup, with the Sauces and Wines, form the whole of the 
 Course. 
 
 D 
 
34. BILLS OF FARE. - 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Pheasant. wi 
 Ducklings and Peas. Calves’ Brains. 
 
 Haunch of Mountain Mutton. 
 
 THIRD COURSE. '- 
 Macaroni. 
 
 Apricot Tart. Cream. Jelly. : 
 
 Omelet le Soufflé. 
 
 CHEESE COURSE. 
 Stilton. 
 
 Silver Bread Basket. Small Cheese Bis- 
 
 cuits, or Sliced Roll. 
 
 Butter in Ice, 
 or moulded, 
 
 A Cream Cheese, or grated Parmesan, 
 
 in a covered cut Glass. 
 
 DINNERS OF TWO COURSES, FOUR AND FIVE, FOR FA- 
 MILY DINNERS, OR SMALL PARTIES. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Trout fried with Sweet Herbs, 
 or Whiting fried, 
 
 Jerusalem Artichokes. Mashed Turnips. 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Leg of Mutton. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Veal Cutlets in Vol-au-vent, 
 
 or Mutton a la Soubise. 
 Young Peas. Ratafia Cream. Dressed Lobster. 
 Ducklings. 
 
 
 
 aaa 8 cnislisicna LS Fa 
 

 
 
 
 \ 
 
 BILLS OF FARE... 3d 
 
 ' PLAIN DESSERT. 
 Rennets. ) 
 Glass Tumblers. 
 Water Jug. 
 Glass Tumblers. 
 The Wines. 
 Pears. 
 
 Walnuts. Filberts, or Prunes. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. | 
 Hare Soup. 
 
 (Remove—Fillets of Turbot.) 
 
 Stewed Cucumber. 
 
 Dressed Turnips. 
 Roast Pig. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Sweetbreads fricasseed, 
 
 Calves’-Feet Jelly. 
 Roasted Pheasant, or Game of any kind. 
 
 Ginger Cream. 
 
 ’ FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Civet of Hare as Soup. 
 Fillet of Rabbit Savoury Patties, 
 with Truffles. 
 
 or Calves’ Ears. 
 Breast of Mutton grilled. 
 Potatoes and Vegetables on the Side Table. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Small Ham, glazed and ornamented. 
 
 Asparagus, Almond Pudding, 
 with Butter Sauce. or Gateau de Riz. Stewed Celery. 
 Small Turkey roasted. 
 
 dD 2 
 
36 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 GOCD DINNERS OF SEVEN DISHES—-TWO COURSES. 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Oyster Soup. 
 (Remove—Slices of Salmon with Sauce aux Capres.*) 
 
 Small Fricandeau, with 
 Spinach, Sorrel, or 
 Tomata Sauce. 
 
 Tongue 
 on mashed Turnips. 
 
 Partridge Pie. 
 : Portuguese 
 Deeks eee. ; Mutton Cutlets. 
 Stewed Rump of Beef. 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Moor Game, or Golden Plover. 
 Cranberry Tart. Orange Sauce. Macaroni. 
 Lemon Cream. 
 Cauliflower, Wnt Sate. Apricot Marmalade 
 
 White Sauce. Tart, or Pudding. 
 
 Fore-quarter of Lamb roasted. 
 
 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Fish—Pike a la Genevoise. 
 
 Sauce. 
 Veal Cutlets. Chicken and Ham Patties. 
 Giblet Soup. 
 Curried Rabbit in 
 Cod Sounds. Casserole of Rice. 
 Sauce. 
 
 Roast Goose. 
 
 * Sliced Cucumber, prepared with oil, vinegar, and pepper, 
 should be on the sideboard. 
 
BILLS OF FARE. BY 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Veal Sweetbreads. 
 
 Snowballs, or Castle Asparagus, with 
 _ Puddings. : Butter. 
 Trifle, or ornamental Cake. 
 Omelet. Cheesecakes. 
 Roasted Birds. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Mullagatawney Soup. 
 (Remove—Fish.) 
 
 Macaroni Pudding. Sauce. Savoury Patties. 
 Plateau. 
 Currie of Chickens 
 Potato Balls. in Rice Casserole. 
 Sauce. 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Green Peas. 
 
 Custards in Glasses. 
 Vegetable Marrow. Lemon Pudding. 
 
 Plateau. 
 Omelets, or Gufs 
 
 Cranberry Tart. opeeal jis 
 
 Cream in Glasses. 
 
 Ducklings. 
 
 DINNER OF NINE DISHES. 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 Ox-tail Soup. 
 Mashed Potatoes. Boiled Rice. 
 Boiled Turkey Poult. | Curried Fish. Ham glazed. 
 Palates. Brocoli. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton roasted. 
 
 
 
38 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 SECOND COURSE.* 
 
 Black Cock. 
 Small Pastry. Wafers. Calve’s-feet Jelly. 
 French Beans. Trifle. Lobster Salad. 
 Ginger Cream. Wafers. Meringles. 
 
 Hashed Hare, 
 or a Neck of Venison braised. 
 
 DINNER OF ELEVEN DISHES, 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 White Soup—a la Reine, 
 or Jerusalem Artichoke Soup. 
 (Remove—Fish.) 
 
 ‘Stewed Pigeons. Lamb Chops and 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 Oyster Patties. 
 Tongue on Spinach. Plateau. Boiled Chickens. 
 Lobster Patties. 
 Sheep’s Rumps, Kidneys, 
 or Palates, Sweetbreads grilled. 
 or Irish Stew. 
 Mullagatawney. 
 
 (Remove—Loin of Veal, or other Roast.) 
 
 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 Partridges roasted. 
 
 Wine Jelly. Dressed Lobster. 
 Small Pastry. 
 Stewed Mushrooms. Plateau. French Salad. 
 Small Pastry. 
 Prawns in Jelly, 
 or Plain, Coffee Cream. 
 or Spinach and Eggs. 
 Macaroni. 
 
 * If the party is rather large, and the table long, the same 
 number of expensive dishes may do; but they must be arranged 
 down the middle, and at the sides, while a few trifling articles 
 of confectionary fill up the corners. 
 
’ BILLS OF FARE. 39 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 
 ‘Turbot. 
 . (Remove—Turkey.) 
 Melted Butter. 
 . ce Ee Chicken and Ham Patties. Ox Palates. 
 Lobster Soup. Plateau. Brown Gravy Soup, 
 Turkey Giblets. Oyster Patties. Macaroni. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. 
 Fried Whitings. 
 
 {Remove—Stewed Brisket of Beef, garnished with Vegetables, 
 or glazed Onions. 
 
 SECOND COURSE. 
 
 
 
 Veal Sweetbreads. 
 Apricot Charlotte. Small Pastry. Wine Jelly. 
 Sea Kale. Plateau. Vegetable Marrow. 
 Coffee Cream. Small Pastry. Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 W oodcocks roasted. 
 
 : DINNERS OF NINE DISHES AND ELEVEN. 
 
 FIRST COURSE. 
 Mock Turtle. 
 (Remove—Crimped Salmon.) 
 _ Rabbit and Onions. Lobster Sauce. Scolloped Oysters. 
 Ham braised. Plateau. Turkey in White Sauce. 
 Potted Eels. Currant Jelly. Wine Sauce. Stewed Pigeons. 
 
 Haunch of Venison, or of 
 Mutton dressed as Venison. 
 
40 KITCHEN TERMS, 
 
 , SECOND COURSE. 
 
 Pheasant. 
 Open Tart of 
 Puffs. Preserved Cucumbers, Apricot 
 Marmalade. 
 Artichokes. Plateau. Salad. 
 
 Almond Cheese- 
 cakes. 
 
 Raspberry Cream 
 
 Preserved Oranges. in Glass Cups. 
 
 Wild Ducks. 
 ( Remove—Ramakins.) 
 
 TERMS IN USE IN THE KITCHEN. 
 
 Atelets.— Small silver skewers. 
 
 Au naturel.—Plain done. 
 
 Bain Marie.—A warm-water bath ; to be purchased at the 
 ironmonger’s. 
 
 Barber.—To cover with slices of lard. 
 
 Blane.—A rich broth or gravy, in which the French cook pa- 
 lates lamb’s head, and many other things. Ht is made thus:—A 
 pound of beef kidney fat, minced, put on with a sliced carrot 
 an onion stuck with two cloves, parsley, green onions, slices of 
 lemon without the peel or seeds, or, if much is wanted, two 
 pounds of fat and two lemons. When the fat is a good deal 
 melted, put in water made briny with salt; and when done, keep 
 the blanc for use. 
 
 Blanchir.—To blanch by giving some boils in water. 
 
 Bourguignote.—A ragout of truffles 
 
 Braise.—A manner of stewing meat which greatly improves 
 the taste by preventing any sensible evaporation. 
 
 Braisiére-—Braising-pan—a copper vessel tinned, deep and 
 long, with two handles, the lid concave on the outside, that fire 
 may be put in it. 
 
 Brider.—To truss up a fowl or any thing else with a needle 
 and pack-thread, or tape. 
 
 Buisson.—A. whimsical method of dressing up pastry, &c. 
 Bundle or Bunch.—Made with parsley and green onions,— 
 when seasoned, bay leaves, two bunches of thyme, a bit of 
 
 sweet basil, two cloves, and six leaves of mace are added, 
 
 Capilotade.—A common hash of poultry. 
 
 Cassis,—That part which is attached to the tail end of a loin 
 of veal: in beef, the same part is called the rump. 
 
 Civet.—A hash of game or wild fowl. 
 
 Compiegne.—A. French sweet yeast cake, with fruit, &c. &c. 
 

 
 KITCHEN TERMS. 4l 
 
 Compote.—A fine mixed ragout to garnish white poultry, &c.; 
 also a method of stewing fruit for dessert. 
 
 Compotier.—A dish amongst the dessert service appropriated 
 to the use of the compote. 
 
 Couronne (en ).—To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in 
 the form of crown. 
 
 Court ou Short.—To reduce a sauce very thick. 
 
 Croustades.—F ried crusts of bread. 
 
 Cuisson.—The manner in which meat, vegetables, pastry, or 
 sugar is dressed. It means also the broth or ragout in which 
 meat or fish has been dressed. 
 
 Cullis or Coulis—The gravy or juice of meat. A strong 
 consommeé, 
 
 Desserte, Entrée de-—Dish made of preceding day’s remains. 
 
 Dorez.—To wash pastry, &c., with yolk of egg well beaten. 
 
 Dorure.—Yolks of egg well beaten. 
 
 Entre cote du Beuf.—This is the portion of the animal which 
 lies under the long ribs, or those thick slices of delicate meat 
 which may be got from between them. 
 
 Entrées—A name given to dishes served in the first course 
 with the fish dishes. 
 
 Entremets.—Is the second course, which comes between the 
 roast meat and the desserts. 
 
 Escalopes:—Small pieces of meat cut in the form of some 
 kind of coin. 
 
 Faggot, is a bunch of parsley (the size varies of course), a 
 bay-leaf, and a sprig of thyme, tied up closely. When any 
 thing beyond this is required, it is specified in the article. 
 
 Farce.—This word is used in speaking of chopped meat, fish, 
 or herbs, with which poultry and other things are stuffed be- 
 fore being cooked. 
 
 Feuilletage.—Puff-paste. 
 
 Filets Mignons.—Inside small fillets. 
 
 Financiére—An expensive, highly flavoured, mixed ragout. 
 
 Glacer (to glaze).—To reduce a sauce by means of ebullition 
 to a consistency equal to that of ice. Well made glaze adheres 
 firmly to the meat. 
 
 Godiveau.—A common veal forcemeat. 
 
 Gras (au).—This signifies that the article specified is dressed 
 with meat gravy. 
 
 Gratiner.—To crisp and obtain a grilled taste. 
 
 Grosses Piéces de Fonds.—There are in cookery two very dis- 
 tinct kinds of grosses pieces: the first comprehends substantial 
 pieces for removes, &c.; the other pzéces montées, or ornaments: 
 by piéces de fonds is implied all dishes in pastry that form one 
 entire dish, whether from its composition, or from its particular 
 appearance ; as for example, Cold Pies, Savoy Cakes, Brioches, 
 Babas, gateaux de Compiegne, conglauffles, &c.; whilst the piéces 
 montées, or ornamental pastries, are more considerable in number. 
 
42 KITCHEN TERMS. 
 
 « 
 
 Hors d’cuvres.— Small dishes which are served with the first - 
 
 course. 
 
 Larding-pin.—An utensil by means of which meat, &e., is 
 larded. 
 
 Lardoire (larder ).—An instrument of wood or steel for lard- 
 ing meat. 
 
 Lardons.—The pieces into which bacon and other things are 
 cut, for the purpose of larding meat, &c. &c. 
 
 To Lard, is when you put the bacon through the meat. Things 
 larded do not glaze well. Every thing larded on the top or sur- 
 face is called pique. 
 
 Madeleines.—Cakes made of the same composition as pound- 
 cakes. 
 
 Mariner.—Is said of meat or fish when put in oil or vinegar, 
 with strong herbs to preserve it. 
 
 Mark.—To prepare meat which is to be dressed in a stewing- 
 
 an. 
 i Mask.—Is to cover a dish with a ragout or something of the 
 sort. 
 
 Nourir, is to put in more ham, bacon, butter, &c. 
 
 Noix de Veau.—The leg of veal is divided into three distinct 
 fleshy parts, besides the middle bone ; the larger part, to which 
 the udder is attached is called the noiz, the flat part under it 
 sous noiz, the side part, contre noix, &c. The petites nox are in 
 the side of the shoulder of veal. 
 
 Paillasse—A grill over hot cinders. 
 
 Pain de beurre—An ounce, or an ounce and a half of butter, 
 made in the shape of a roll. 
 
 Paner.—To sprinkle meat or fish which is dressed on the 
 gridiron, with crumbs of bread dipped in butter and eggs. 
 
 Panures.—Every thing that is rolled in, or strewed with 
 bread crumbs. 
 
 Parer, is freeing the meat of nerves, skin, and all unnecessary fat. 
 
 . Paupiettes—Slices of meat, rather broad, to be rolled up. 
 
 Piqué, is to lard with a needle, game, fowls, and all other 
 sorts of meat. 
 
 Poélé.— Almost the same operation as braising, the only dif- 
 ference is, that what is poélez must be underdone; whereas a 
 braise must be done through. 
 
 Puit.—A well, or the void left in the middle, when any thing 
 is dished round as a crown. 
 
 A Purée of onions, turnips, mushrooms, &c., is a pulpy mash, 
 or sauce of the vegetable specified, thinned with boiling cream, 
 or gravy. 
 
 Quenelles—Meat minced or potted, as quenelles of meat, game, 
 fowls, and fish. 
 
 Roux. — This is an indispensable article in cookery, and 
 serves to thicken sauces; the brown is for sauces of the same 
 colour, and the colour must be obtained by slow degrees, other- 
 
HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 43 
 
 wise the flour will burn and give it a bitter taste, and the sauces 
 become spotted with black. 
 
 Sabotiére.—A pewter or tin vessel, in which are placed the 
 moulds containing the substance to be frozen. 
 
 Sasser.—To stir and work a sauce with a spoon. 
 
 Sauce tournée and velouté are not the same, nor has the Jatter 
 name been substituted by the moderns for the former. Sauce 
 tournée is an unfinished sauce; it is of itself a basis for many 
 other white sauces, but it is in no instance served alone as a 
 sauce with any entrée or entreméts. Veloutéis served with hashes 
 of chickens, veal, boudins a la reine, émincés, and. entrees of que- 
 nelles, &c. 
 
 Sautez, is to mix or unite all the parts of a ragotit, by shaking 
 
 it about. 
 
 
 
 Singez.—To dust flour from the dredging-box, which is after- 
 wards to be moistened in order to be dressed. 
 
 Tamis (Tammy).—An instrument to strain broth and sauces. 
 
 Tendrons (Veal), are found near the extremity of the ribs. 
 
 Tourner.—To stir a sauce ; also to pare and cut roots, vege- 
 tables, &c., neatly. 
 
 Tourte——A puff-paste pie. 
 
 Vanner.—To work a sauce well up with a spoon, by lifting it 
 up and letting it fall. 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH OF DIFFERENT KINDS. 
 
 Fisu of all sorts is best when short, thick, well-made, 
 bright in the scales, stiff and springy to the touch, the 
 gills of a fresh red, and the belly not flabby. When 
 the gills are not bright and fresh red-coloured, the fish 
 is not eatable. Salmon, carp, tench, barbel, pike, trout, 
 whiting, &c., when the eyes are sunk, the fins hanging, 
 and the gills grown pale, are not good. 
 
 There is a great difference between salmon in and out 
 of season. If eaten out of season or when stale, this 
 fish is equally unwholesome, and the same observation 
 applies to mackarel. It should be remarked that, ex- 
 cept in frosty weather, fish rarely keeps more than two 
 _or three days. Care should be taken to remove the in- 
 testines from fish, which is meant to be kept, immediately 
 after they are caught. This rule should be invariably 
 followed in reference to whiting, haddock, perch, &c. 
 The livers of these fishes contain an oil, which, in 
 
44 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 warm weather especially, imparts a rancid and un- 
 pleasant taste to the fish. Soles should never be salted. 
 Mackarel, herrings, and pilchards cannot be too soon 
 dressed. When eaten fresh caught, they are divested of — 
 that. oily taste which they sometimes acquire when they 
 are even half a day out of the water. It may also be 
 generally remarked, that neither a carp nor a red-mullet 
 should ever be boiled. 
 
 Tursot.—Choose a turbot by its plumpness, thick- 
 ness, and colour. It should be very white, fleshy, and 
 firm. Observe whether its surface be covered with a 
 round, swelling grain, an indication of its fine healthy 
 condition. The moderate or even smaller size is to be 
 preferred to the very large, which is almost always dry, 
 tasteless, and woolly. ‘To be good, it should be plump, 
 and the belly of a fine, opaque, light cream-colour. If 
 of a blueish cast, like water tinged with milk, or thin, 
 they are not good. <A turbot ought to be bled near the 
 tail as soon as taken, or it will assume a red tinge, im- 
 pairing its appearance not only in the market, but at 
 table. If necessary, turbot will keep for two or three 
 days, and be in as high perfection as at first, if lightly 
 rubbed over with salt, and carefully hung in a cold place. 
 
 SxkaTE.—The best skate are white and thick ; they 
 should be kept a day or two before you dress them, 
 otherwise they will eat tough. The she skate is the 
 sweetest, especially if large. Skate is best during the 
 autumn and winter. This fish may be eaten either 
 boiled, fried, or stewed. 
 
 There is a great difference in this fish. The flavour 
 and fineness of the skate depend, in a considerable de- 
 gree, on the locality in which it is taken. It should be 
 broad and thick, prickly on the back, and of a beautiful 
 creamy white. On the N.E. coast of Scotland, there is 
 a small skate caught of a leaden blue colour, which is 
 said to be of the most delicate flavour. Care should be 
 taken not to eat skate when out of season. 
 
 Oysters.—There are in England various species of 
 oysters. ‘The goodness of oysters depends, in a great 
 
HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 45 
 
 measure, on the grounds or sea-beds from which they 
 are taken ; but the Colchester, Pyfleet, and Chilford, 
 are generally esteemed superior to all others, being white 
 and flat, yet the others may be made to possess these 
 qualities, in some degree, by being properly fed. The 
 large shelled oysters are never good, for even when fat- 
 
 | tened they have a strong flavour. The best oysters in 
 
 _ Ireland are the Carlingford, Burren, and Poldooday. In 
 
 | France the best are found at Cancale, Etretat, and Ma- 
 
 
 
 _rennes. In Belgium the best are fished at Ostend. 
 _ When alive and healthy, the shell closes on the knife, 
 and they should be eaten immediately they are opened, 
 or the flavour will be lost. Oysters taken on muddy 
 bottoms, generally imbibe a disagreeable taste, and thin 
 or shrivelled oysters which scarcely fill up their shell, are, 
 for the most part, rank and ill-flavoured. Oysters taken 
 in rivers where the waters are affected by copper mines, 
 are poisonous. ‘This fish is never fit to be eaten if the 
 shells become open. There is a fine-flavoured, delicate 
 small oyster much in vogue at Genoa, and a green finned 
 oyster at Venice, both of which are good. The Irish and 
 foreign oysters possess a fresh, natural, sea-water flavour, 
 generally wanting in the English oyster, which is fre- 
 quently spoiled by too much feeding and washing. We 
 should advise all amateurs of oysters to obtain their 
 supply direct from the boats at Billingsgate before they 
 get into the hands of the retail dealer. 
 
 EEts are taken both in fresh water andthe sea. The 
 fresh-water eels are the best, and the silver eel among 
 these should always be preferred. Buy them, if possible, 
 alive, and in order to kill them, divide the spine just be- 
 hind the head without severing it from the body. They 
 will die almost instantaneously. The freshness of the 
 eel, like the lobster, is known by the vivacity of its mo- 
 tion, and its quality by the colour of the skin. The 
 silver eel is the best. 
 
 Tue Ling. —It is to be regretted that the ling, one 
 of the finest fishes of the cod tribe, is not oftener 
 brought to Billingsgate-market. It may be eaten fresh 
 or salted, and will well bear transport fresh in the win- 
 
46 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH.” 
 
 ter season from Cornwall to London. Like the cod, the 
 ling has a fine sound, which may be dressed with the 
 
 fish or salted. Ling varies in colour according to the 
 bank it inhabits. When in good order, the ling is 
 
 thick about the poll. The whiteness of the liver indi- | 
 
 cates the good condition of the fish. When out of season 
 the liver is red. 
 
 Smets, if good, have a fine silvery hue, are very 
 
 firm, and have a refreshing smell like cucumbers newly 
 cut. They are caught in the Thames, and some other 
 large rivers, and should be eaten within twenty-four 
 hours after being taken. 
 
 Satmon.—If new, the flesh is of a fine red (the gills 
 particularly), the scales bright, and the whole fish stiff. 
 When just killed, there is a whiteness between the flakes, 
 which gives great firmness; by keeping, this melts 
 down, and the fish is more rich. The Thames Salmon 
 
 bears the highest price; that caught in the Severn is next: 
 
 in goodness, and is even preferred by some. Small heads 
 
 and thick in the neck are best. Look also for a round-. 
 
 ness and breadth over the back, and thickness down to 
 the tail-fin. The upper part of the back red and 
 dark-coloured. 
 
 FiLounpEers.—They should be thick, firm, and have 
 their eyes bright. They very soon become flabby and 
 bad. They are both asea and river fish. The Thames 
 produces the best.. They are in season from January to 
 March, and from July to September. Flounders differ 
 much in quality. There is a flounder with scarlet spots, 
 avery good fish to look at, but which is coarse and 
 woolly in the grain. The best flounders are of a sober 
 grayish colour. 
 
 Wuitines.—Always buy whitings fresh. Having 
 gutted them, you can keep them two or three days in 
 a cool place in the winter months. Never purchase 
 uncleaned whiting unless it be perfectly fresh out of the 
 water. The firmness of the body and fins is to be looked 
 to, as in herrings; their high season is during the first 
 three months of the year, but they may be had a great 
 part of it. Whiting is one of the most wholesome of 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH.’ 47. 
 
 fish, and is so light that physicians recommend it to in- 
 _ valids when more solid nutriment is forbidden. The 
 - largest whiting are taken off the coasts of Devon and 
 | Cornwall, They are in highest season from Michael- 
 | mas to February, shortly after which they begin to 
 east their spawn. They are again fit for the table by 
 _ the latter end of May or the beginning of June. 
 
 It is not easy to know the whiting from the codling, 
 and this is the more necessary, as fishmongers have an 
 ugly trick of substituting the one for the other. The cod- 
 ling, however, has a beard, while the whiting is smooth. 
 
 Cop.—Cod, skate, maids, and thornback should be in 
 _ a state fit to crimp, and are so when the flesh rises 
 _ again on being pressed with the finger. There are six- 
 _ teen different species of cod taken on our coasts; but 
 | the most esteemed is the Dogger Bank. 
 
 This fish is best when thick towards the head, with a 
 | deep pit just behind it, and the flesh cuts white and clear. 
 _ The fish should be perfectly stiff. This affords a proof 
 of its freshness, and of its eating firm. The gills should 
 _ be very red, and the eyes fresh and bright; when 
 flabby they are not good. Cod is invariably good, 
 when the weather is cold, dry, and frosty; and it is in 
 | primest season during the periods London fashionables 
 _ dine by candle-light—namely, from November to March. 
 _ The larger cod, if in good order, are generally the 
 _ firmest and best-flavoured fish. The smaller cod-fish 
 are, for the most part, flabby and watery, though these 
 defects may be in a measure removed, by sprinkling salt 
 over the fish, a few days before it is cooked. 
 
 | Tue Sturcron when good, must have a fine blue in 
 its veins and gristle, a brown or yellowish cast in these 
 _ parts denote a bad fish; if kept too long this fish has a 
 disagreeable taint. The flesh must be perfectly white, 
 and must cut without crumbling. 
 
 It is from the roe of the sturgeon that the caviare is 
 composed, though it is sometimes made of the spawn of 
 the gray carp, or the hard roe of the gray mullet. 
 
 Tue Happocx hears some resemblance to the cod, 
 
48 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 but may be easily distinguished by the black spot on 
 each shoulder. It is a superior fish; the flesh is firm, 
 and of a snow-white colour, with a creamy curd be- 
 tween the flakes. The largest haddocks are in general 
 the best, and the larger size keep better than the smaller 
 ones. The finest haddocks are taken in Dublin Bay, 
 and off the coasts of Devon and Cornwall. Haddocks 
 of all kinds may be almost daily obtained of Grove, 
 Charing-Cross. A haddock should be chosen like a cod, 
 by the thickness and depth of the body, and fulness at 
 the poll. The freshness of a haddock may be ascer- 
 tained by the redness of the gills and brightness of the 
 eyes. 
 
 “sae Soe should be chosen in the same manneras a turbot. 
 The smallest soles are of the sweetest and best flavour for 
 frying. If you wish to boil your fish, choose a large Dover 
 or Torbay sole. They are in season nearly the whole year, 
 but are best at Midsummer. Soles are usually skinned on. - 
 the dark side only; the scales on the white side should be 
 carefully removed, which is often done in a very slovenly 
 manner, and sometimes omitted altogether. The soles 
 of the West of England and of Ireland, are quite dif- 
 ferent from the sole sent to the London market, being a 
 much richer and thicker fish, with a black skin. For 
 invalids, or persons of a delicate stomach, the smaller 
 and whiter sole, is preferable. If the sole come to mar- 
 ket, gutted and packed, by land-carriage, you must 
 judge of the freshness by the smell. The best proof of 
 their freshness, however, is the transparency of the slime 
 on the dark side, through which the fine scales may be 
 easily seen, and by a frothy appearance in the slime on 
 the lower side; but this fish, if gutted, may be kept 
 good long after these marks have disappeared. 
 
 Satmon, Happocx, Wurrine, and all other fish, 
 whether of the sea, pond, or river, may be judged as to 
 freshness, by the red, lively colour of the gills, the 
 brightness of the eye, the clearness and regular undis- 
 turbed position of the scales, and a plumpness of body,. 
 amounting to stiffness. A dead eye, livid gills, and 
 

 
 HOW TO CHOOSE FiSH. 49 
 
 flabby condition of the flesh, are sure signs that the fish 
 is stale. 
 
 Lampreys.—The sea and the river lamprey, or lam- 
 pern, are easily distinguishable not only by their size, 
 but by their colour. The sea-lamprey is of a rusty, 
 mottled colour, whilst the river-lamprey is of the colour 
 of the common eel, or a shade darker. The sea-lam- 
 prey is also considerably larger than the river, sometimes 
 weighing as much as five or six pounds, whilst the river 
 lamprey seldom exceeds twelve inches in length, and 
 seldom weighs from half a pound to a pound, or a pound 
 and a quarter. River lampreys are excellent, either 
 stewed, potted, or in pies. Some there are who fry 
 them, but they are generally sent up from Worcester in 
 a prepared sauce, in order to be stewed, which is the pre- 
 ferable mode of eating them. They are, it must be 
 confessed, a more agreeable than wholesome food. 
 Henry I. died from a surfeit of them. The lamprey is 
 in the most perfect season during the months of April 
 and May. 
 
 Tue Rep Muuzet.—This fish is called the woodeock 
 of the sea. It is so choice in its food, that like that 
 bird, it is cooked without drawing. It is in prime sea- 
 son during the heats of summer, and is therefore difficult 
 to obtain fresh. When the red mullet is first taken out 
 of the water, it is of an exquisite rose-colour, varying 
 in lighter tints. When dead, and some time out of 
 water, it assumes a brownish tinge ; as it becomes more 
 stale, the colour grows paler. Redness of the gills is in 
 this, as in most other fish, a criterion of freshness. Red 
 mullets require to be carefully packed. If pressed on 
 by other fish, they are apt to burst. They should be 
 eaten, if possible, on the day on which they are taken 
 out of the water; for though they may be perfectly 
 sweet and wholesome on the following day, yet their 
 livers, by keeping, will have become soft, and will no 
 longer have that exquisite flavour which they would 
 have possessed if dressed on the day they were taken. 
 
 E 
 
50 HOW TO CHOOSE FISH. 
 
 Pincuarps.—The pilchard is an exquisite fish of the 
 herring tribe. It is somewhat rounder than the herring. 
 The portion of the back-fin, too, is placed more forward 
 in the pilchard. The criterion of freshness is the same 
 as in the herring. Pilchards are in season whenever 
 they are to be met with. They are best when boiled 
 with their scales on without gutting. | 
 
 WHITEBAIT are in season in July, August, and Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 Puaice AND Firounpers.—To be good, should be 
 stiff, and have a full eye. The plaice is best when the 
 belly has a blueish cast. 
 
 HeERRIncs AND MACKAREL are unfit for the table 
 when faded, wrinkled, or pliable in the tail. The fresh- 
 ness of mackarel may be ascertained by the stiffness of 
 the body, and the prismatic brilliancy of its colours. 
 When they are out of condition, they have got what is 
 called the “rogue’s mark,” are long and thin made, with 
 a sharp belly, wanting in fulness. When fresh, the sides 
 and belly are bright and silvery, the body is stiff, and 
 the skin devoid of wrinkle. ‘They are in season from 
 June till November. Their gills should be of a fine 
 red, and their eyes bright, and the whole fish should be 
 stiff and firm. Herrings should not be too frequently 
 partaken of when they first come into season. They 
 have then a peculiar richness, which even affects the 
 stomach of the strongest fisherman. The freshness of 
 herrings and sprats is ascertained by the brightness of 
 the scales. 
 
 A LossTer should be chosen by its weight, alertness, 
 and fresh smell; by the tail, which, when newly caught 
 will be stiff and springy, and the firmness of its sides. The 
 heaviest are the best, if there be no water in them. If 
 you desire a cock lobster, select that which has a narrow 
 back part of the tail, with the two uppermost fins with- 
 in. The tail should be hard and stiff like a bone; the 
 back of the hen is soft, and is invariably broader ; her 
 fins are also soft. Before selecting, carefully smell a 
 
 —_-- 
 

 
 HOW TO BOIL FISH. 51 
 
 lobster. If stale, it may be easily known by a heavy, 
 muggy smell. Crabs, prawns, and shrimps may be 
 chosen in the same manner. Always choose the largest 
 and heaviest crab you can find. These shell-fish, if 
 kept more than one day, will become bad. The colour 
 of stale shell-fish fades, becoming blackish ‘and dark if 
 naturally red. They also. when stale become pliable 
 in their claws and joints. 
 
 Joun Dory.—This is one of the very best fishes in 
 the sea. They are found in greatest abundance on the 
 southern coasts of Devon and Cornwall. They some- 
 times weigh as much as twelve pounds, but the greater 
 proportion are not half that size. The larger dory are 
 in best season from September to Christmas, but are 
 good eating at all times. They keep well, but should 
 be gutted, otherwise the flesh acquires an unpleasant 
 taste. Over the collar-bones and about the head of this 
 fish the choicest morsels are to be found. Larger dories are 
 best boiled—-the smaller ones may be fried. The flesh 
 is of a fine, clear white when dressed, with the exception 
 of that part covering the fins, which is of a brownish 
 colour. 
 
 GENERAL DIRECTIONS AS TO BOILING AND 
 SERVING FISH. 
 
 To MAKE FISH FIRMER IN BOILING, put a quarter 
 of an ounce of saltpetre to every gallon of the water in 
 which the fish is boiled. 
 
 To keep Fisu HoT FoR TABLEeE.—Do not leave it in 
 the water a moment after it is done, but take it out and 
 lay the fish-plate into a large hot dish, and place it across 
 the fish-kettle. Now dip a cloth into boiling water, and 
 with it envelope the fish, placing a cover over it. When 
 the fish is called for, remove the cloth and replace it in 
 the kettle, the water in which should be boiling, for a 
 moment, that it may be quite hot. 
 
 E 2 
 
~ 
 
 a2 HOW TO CHOOSE PROVISIONS. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR THE CHOICE OF PROVISIONS. 
 
 VeENISoN should be thick and firm in the fat, and the 
 lean pure. The age of the deer, as well as hares 
 and rabbits, is known by the clefts eo claws being aig 
 and smooth in the young animal. 
 
 Try the haunches or shoulders, under ve bones that 
 come out, with the finger or knife, and as the scent is 
 sweet or nic it is new or stale; and the like may be 
 
 said of the sides in the fleshy parts ; if tainted, they will 
 look green in some places, or more than ordinarily 
 black. 
 
 Few people like venison when it has much of the 
 haut gout. 
 
 The buck-venison begins in May, and is in high sea- 
 son till Allhallows-day: the doe from Michaelmas to the 
 end of December, or sometimes to the end of January. 
 
 Meat.—The best joints of the best meat cost most 
 money at first, but are most economical. All stale 
 meat may be known by the eyes being sunk, the kidney 
 tainted, and the flesh white. All provisions should be 
 Hough with ready money; or the bills settled weekly. 
 This will effect a saying of twenty per cent. to the 
 housekeeper. 
 
 How To cHoosr Beer.—The finest ox-beef may be 
 known from having a smooth open grain, an agreeable 
 
 carnation colour, delicately marbled with streaks of fat, the 
 flesh should look red, and the suet white; and if young, 
 it will be tender, aud of an oily smoothness. The co- 
 lour of the fat should be rather white than yellow. Yel- 
 low fat indicates that the beast has been fed on oil-cake. 
 Cow-beef is not so open in its grain, nor is the red of so 
 pleasant a colour, but the fat is much whiter. It may 
 be also distinguished by the udder, when dressed on the 
 whole or in quarters. You may know whether or not 
 itis young, by making an impression on the lean with 
 your finger, which mark, if young, will soon disappear. 
 The sweetest and best-flavoured beef is that of the small 
 Scotch bullock, when fed on English pasture, or the 
 

 
 HOW TO CHOOSE PROVISIONS. Jo 
 
 short-horned little Devon. Northampton, and Leices- 
 tershire beef is large, but the flavour is not fine. 
 Bull-beef should never be purchased, being clammy, 
 
 rank, and more closely grained than other beef. The 
 
 colour ia a dusky red, and the flesh tough in pinching. 
 The fat is rank, skinny, and hard. 
 
 ae Murron AND Lams.—Mutton is not good Gate: three 
 years’ old; younger it is turgid and pale. ‘The best is 
 
 above een but it is seldom to be got in the market of 
 that age. The black-faced, or short sheep, are best for 
 
 | the bite: though more depends on the pasture than on 
 the breed. 
 
 * Mutton fed on mountains and downs, where the herb- 
 age is short and fine, is better than that fed on rich 
 pasture. Always therefore choose the Dartmoor, the 
 small Welsh, the South Down, or Scotch Highland 
 mutton. Some of the largest and fattest sheep are pro- 
 duced in Leicestershire, and the marshes of Kent, but 
 the smaller mutton is to be preferred. The flesh of the 
 wether should always be preferred to that of the ewe. 
 Hill wether mutton, from four to seven years old, is far 
 the best, whether for boiling or roasting. Choose it short 
 in the shank, thick in the thigh, and of a pure, healthy, 
 brownish red, with the flesh marbled. 
 
 Pinch the flesh with your fingers; if it regains its 
 former state in a short time, the mutton is young, but 
 otherwise it is old, and the fat will be clammy and 
 fibrous. If it be ram mutton, the flavour of which is 
 disagreeable and strong, the grain will be close, the lean 
 tough, and of a deep red colour; it will not rise when 
 pinched, and the fat will be spongy. The test of ex- 
 eellence in this meat is, that it does not fly from the knife 
 when cut, but rather eloses upon it. Carefully observe 
 the vein in the neck of mutton or lamb, if it look 
 ruddy or blueish, the meat is fresh ; but if yellowish, is 
 decaying, and if green, completely tegiiveds The hind- 
 quarter may be judged of from the kidney and knuckle. 
 If you find a faint smell under the kidney, or the knuckle 
 
54 HOW TO CHOOSE PROVISIONS. 
 
 is unusually limp, the meat is stale. That mutton and. 
 lamb will always prove the best, the legs and shoulders 
 of which are short-shanked. 4 
 
 In the choice of lamb, observe the eye, which should 
 be bright and full ; if it be sunk and wrinkled, the meat 
 is stale. . 
 
 Grass-lamb comes into season in April or May, and 
 continues till August. House-lamb may be had in 
 great towns almost all the year, but is in highest perfec- 
 tion in December and January. 
 
 Vrat.—The whitest veal in England is not the most: 
 
 juicy, having been made so by frequent bleeding. The 
 French veal of Pontoise is finer than the English. The 
 whiteness is produced by feeding the animal on milk 
 and biscuits. The calf is there brought to market in a 
 covered van. ea 
 
 Veal should be fat, and white, and young: the mode 
 of feeding is of great importance. Examine the kidney, - 
 the state of which will show the feeding and condition 
 of all animals. ; 
 
 Veal, when stale, generally becomes flabby and 
 clammy. The flesh of the cow-calf is not of so bright 
 a red, nor so firmly grained as that of the bull-calf, 
 neither is the fat so much curdled. The shoulder may 
 be known by the vein in it, which, if it be not of a 
 bright red, is surely stale, and if any green spots appear 
 about it, totally unfit for use. Should the neck or 
 breast appear yellowish at the upper end, or the sweet- 
 bread clammy, it is not good. In the choice of this 
 meat, one of the best indications is that the kidney be 
 covered with a white dense fat. “Ae 
 
 The loin may be known by smelling under the kidney, 
 which always taints first, and bgcomes putrescent, and 
 the fat in that case loses its firm consistence. The leg 
 may be known by the joint, which if it be limp, and the 
 flesh clammy, with green or yellow spots, is unfit for 
 use. 3 
 
 The head, if new and sweet, must have the eyes 
 

 
 HOW TO CHOOSE PROVISIONS. 59 
 
 plump and lively, but if they are sunk or wrinkled, it is 
 not good. 
 
 This rule applies also to the head of the sheep or 
 lamb. The greatest quantity of veal consumed in Lon- 
 don is brought from Essex, which may be called the 
 Pontoise of England. 
 
 Porxk.—A thin rind is a good indieation in all pork ; 
 a thick, tough one, not easily impressed with the finger, 
 is a sign of age. 
 
 When you purchase a leg, a hand, or a spring, take 
 especial care that the flesh is cool and smooth ; for, if 
 otherwise, it is certainly stale ; but particularly put your 
 finger under the bone that comes out, and if the flesh 
 be tainted, you will immediately discover it by smelling 
 to your finger. The lean of young pork will break on 
 being pinched. Measly pork is easily distinguishable 
 from sound by the fat being full of kernels. London is 
 supplied with the best pork by the dairy farms in 
 Essex. 
 
 When you purchase a sucking-pig, remember that the 
 barrow, or sow, is better than the boar, the flesh of 
 which is neither so sweet nor so tender. Smell carefully 
 at the belly, and examine about the tail, and if it has no 
 disagreeable, nor any yellow and green spots in those 
 parts, the pig is as good as you could desire, but you 
 will in general find that the short thick necks are the 
 best. 
 
 Bacon anp Ham.—Observe whether the smell be 
 fresh, and see that the fat and lean be clear and not 
 streaked with yellow. 
 
 In marketing for bacon, observe also whether the fat 
 feels oily, appears white, and does not crumble, and that 
 the flesh bears a good colour, and adheres closely to the 
 bone, in which case only the bacon is good. The best 
 bacon comes from Hampshire, but much sold as Hamp- 
 shire is Buckinghamshire and Irish bacon. The bacon 
 of Yorkshire, Cumberland, and Gloucestershire is good. 
 
 With respect to hams, you should select one with a 
 
o6 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 
 
 short shank, and try it with a sharp pointed knife, which 
 thrust into the flesh as near the pope’s eye as possible. 
 If it come out only a little smeared, and smells well, 
 you may be assured that the ham is good; but if it be 
 daubed, and have a fetid smell, it is good for nothing. 
 When freshly cured, and not over salted, a ham may be 
 trimmed and wrapped in a coarse paste, and will be 
 found more juicy and of finer flavour baked than boiled. 
 York, Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Gloucestershire 
 are famous for their hams, but a great proportion of the 
 hams now sold as Yorkshire are Irish. . 
 
 The Strasbourg bacon is highly smoked, of a delicious 
 flavour, but excessively dear. It may be obtained at 
 any of the Htalian oil shops, where the Bayonne and 
 Westphalia hams can also be purchased. The latter are 
 now imported in large quantities, and may be purchased 
 so low as eightpence per pound, but they are no longer 
 prepared with the care and perfection bestowed on them 
 when they were sold at fourteenpence per pound. . Por- 
 tuguese hams have also been recently introduced into the 
 English markets, and though of an ungraceful and awk- 
 ward shape, are yet of good. colour and flavour. Bacon 
 should always be twice salted, and patiently rubbed both: 
 times.—All meat salted in pieces and packed must be 
 fully covered with the brine. As to the manner of 
 boiling foreign hams see postea, Foreign cookery. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 A Hrn.—It may generally be remarked that barn-. 
 door fowls are preferable to those fed in coops. Much 
 experience and observation are requisite in forming a 
 judgment of the freshness and goodness of fowls. Any 
 appearance of greenness about the rump is a sure sign 
 of putrescency. The Poland breed of fowls is the 
 largest. Dorking in Surrey, and Epping in Essex, are 
 alike famed for good poultry. Bethnal Green and Mile. 
 End fatten much poultry for Leadenhall-market, but it 
 

 
 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. ry 
 
 _ is inferior to barn-door fowl. Good fowls are short, plump, 
 _ broad in the breast and thick in the rump. A hen is old if 
 _ herlegs andcomb be rough, but young if they are smooth. 
 _ You may also judge of the freshness by her vent, in the 
 _ same manner as the cock. Young poultry may be dis- 
 _ tinguished by the pellucid appearance and peculiar feel 
 _ of the flesh, and by the flexibility of the breast-bone. 
 Many poulterers, aware of this, take care to break the 
 breast bone of every fowl they expose for sale. It may 
 _ be here remarked that the Poularde of France, from 
 _ Mans in the department of the Sarthe, is superior to any 
 English fowl whatever. 
 
 _ Gerse.—The feet and bill of a young goose are 
 _ yellow; they turn red as the bird grows old. It has but 
 _ few hairs on the feet. When old, however, the feet be- 
 _ come hairy. If fresh, the feet are supple ; but if stale, 
 dry and stiff. Great quantities of geese come to London 
 from Devonshire, Lincolnshire, Buckingamshire, &c. In 
 France the greatest number are reared in the Gironde. 
 The quantity of geese reared in France is almost incre- 
 _ dible. The minister, Chaptal, states that 120,000 des- 
 | tined to be fattened were annually sold in the market of 
 Toulouse alone. 
 
 Witp Ducxs.—The wild ducks from the coast—those 
 feeding on what they can get from the salt water 
 and the lands contiguous, are often tough and fishy, 
 though some of them may be found tender, but not 
 quite free from the fishy flavour. These are the birds 
 which, with widgeons and teal, are hawked about in the 
 streets of London, and sold sometimes at from eighteen- 
 pence to half-a-crown a couple, according to the powers 
 of eloquence of the vendor, and the powers of gullibility 
 of the purchaser, who can generally, if he has any ex- 
 perience, obtain them for one half the price at first de- 
 manded. 
 
 Of the many varieties of wild ducks, those with red 
 legs are held in the highest estimation. 
 
 The best wild ducks are those from the fens of Lin- 
 
58 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 
 
 colnshire, taken by decoys. The same species is found 
 in the Campagna of Rome. They are esteemed a great 
 delicacy at the Roman tables about Christmas time. 
 They are wholly free from rankness and a fishy taste, 
 and are of a fine rich gamey flavour, Wild ducks are 
 to be purchased, when in season, at the shops of all the 
 respectable poulterers in London, and at a very reason- 
 able price. | 
 
 The widgeon, which is a smaller bird of the duck 
 species, is not so good as the wild duck. It is coarse, 
 often fishy, rank, and rough, and is not fit to appear ata 
 dinner of any pretension, except in the form of a truffled 
 saute. 
 
 The teal, the smallest of the tribe, is much superior, 
 and forms a recherché roast even among the most diffi- 
 cult to please of the knights of the dinner table. Teal 
 and widgeon are supple-footed when fresh, but stiff and 
 dry-footed when stale. If fat, they are thick and hard 
 on the belly, and lean if thin and soft. 
 
 Tame Ducxs.—A tame duck—and the remark applies 
 also to a wild duck—when fat and young, is thick and 
 hard on the belly, and is old when lean and thin. 
 When fresh, the foot is pliable, but dry, if stale. Ob- 
 serve, that the foot of the best wild duck is red—and of 
 the great majority of wild ducks, reddish—and that it is 
 less than that of a tame duck. 
 
 A Parrrince.—Partridges when young, have yel- 
 lowish and dark-coloured bills. This bird taints first in 
 the crop, therefore you should open its bill and smell ; 
 next examine the bill, legs, and vent; if the bill be 
 white, and the legs have a blueish cast, the bird: is old ; 
 but if the bill is black, and the legs yellow, it is young. 
 If the vent be fast, itis new; but stale, if open and 
 green. In France, the red-legged partridge is the most 
 esteemed ; but all partridges in that country are inferior 
 to the English. They are dry and flavourless, and want 
 the juice and succulence of the English game. 
 
 . A Swire is chosen in the same manner as the wood- 
 

 
 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 59 
 
 ' cock; but the snipe when fresh is fat in the side, under 
 _ the wing, and feels thick in the vent. 
 
 Tue TurKxey.—The legs of a cock turkey should be 
 black and smooth, its spurs short, the feet limber, and 
 the eyes lively ; but if the eyes are sunk and the feet 
 dry, the bird is stale. The hen is chosen in the same 
 manner, only observe, that if she is with egg, the vent 
 will be soft and open, but if not, close and hard. 
 
 The county of Norfolk has the reputation of breeding 
 the finest turkeys. They are in season from November 
 to March, at which period they are succeeded by turkey 
 poults. The number of turkeys and fowls produced in 
 France is much greater, making all allowance for the 
 size and superficial extent of the country, than in Eng- 
 land. A quarter of a century ago, according to Chap- 
 tal, minister of the interior, the capital embarked in the 
 poultry trade, amounted to 51,600,000 francs. 
 
 A Rassrr has long rough claws, and gray hairs in- 
 termixed with its wool if it be old; but when young, 
 | the wool and claws are smooth. If stale it is supple, 
 _ and the flesh blueish, with a kind of slime upon it ; but 
 if fresh it will be stiff, and the flesh white and dry. 
 
 A Hare Anp LEVERET are thus chosen; if the claws 
 of a hare are blunt and rugged, the division in the lip 
 spread much, and the ears appear dry and tough, and 
 the bones hard, it is old; but if the claws are sharp and 
 smooth, the division in the lip not greatly spread, and 
 the ears will easily tear, it is young. If fresh killed, 
 the flesh of both will be white and stiff ; but if stale, 
 supple and blackish in many places. To discover a true 
 leveret; feel near the foot on its fore leg, and if you find 
 there a knob, or small bony protuberance, it is a real 
 leveret, but if destitute of this, it must be a hare. 
 
 Tae Busrarp.—This dainty bird is chosen in the 
 same manner as the turkey. 
 
 THe Heatucock anp Hen when young have smooth 
 legs and bills, which become rough when old. You may 
 judge of their freshness in the same manner as you do 
 with the pheasant. 
 
60 HOW TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 
 
 THe WHEATEAR.—This delicate bird is fresh, if it 
 has a limber-foot and fat rump: otherwise it is stale. ~ 
 
 Tue Pueasant.—A young cock-pheasant has dubbed 
 spurs, but if old, the spurs will be sharp and small. — If 
 the vent’ be fast, the bird is fresh, but if it be open and 
 flabby, stale. If a hen, and young, the legs will be 
 smooth, and her flesh of a fine grain; but if old, her legs 
 will be rough, and, as it were, hairy, when pulled. 
 
 Pheasants and heath-poults are fresh when their feet 
 are limber, and their vents are white and stiff ; but are 
 stale when they are dry-footed, have green vents, and 
 will peel, if touched hard. ‘J 
 
 Picrons when they grow red-legged are old, and 
 are stale when their vents are flabby and green. If 
 fresh, they will be limber-footed, and feel fat in the 
 vent. 
 
 By this rule you may judge of all kinds of doves, 
 fieldfares, thrushes, blackbirds, plovers, larks, &c. 
 
 Tue Woonpcock, if stale, will be dry-footed ; and if 
 bad, its nose will be moist; but if new and fat, it will 
 be limber-footed, thick, and hard. | 
 
 A Capron is known by a short and pale comb, a thick 
 rump and belly, and a fat vein on the side of the breast ; 
 when young, the spurs will be short and blunt, and the 
 legs smooth; and if fresh, the vent will be close and 
 hard ; but if stale, loose; which last remark may be ap- 
 plied to cocks and hens. 
 
 A Cocx when young, has short and dubbed spurs, 
 but it should be observed that the spurs of old cocks 
 may be scraped so as to deceive any but a very accurate 
 observer. If fresh his vent will be hard and close; but 
 you cannot be too particular in observing the spurs, as 
 the market people frequently scrape them. 
 

 
 ~ 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE EGGS, &c. 6l 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE EGGS, BUTTER, AND CHEESE. 
 
 Eaas.—Hold the great end of the egg to your 
 tongue ; if it feels warm, it is new; if cold, bad; and 
 so in proportion to the heat or cold is the goodness of 
 the egg. Another way to know is to put the egg in a 
 pan of cold water, the fresher the egg, the sooner it 
 will fall to the bottom ; if rotten, it will swim at the 
 top. This is a sure way not to bedeceived. The best 
 way to keep egg's is in bran or meal, turning them fre- 
 quently ; some, however, place the small end downwards 
 in fine wood-ashes: to keep them for a long period they 
 may be buried in salt, which it is said will preserve them 
 in almost any climate. 
 
 Buttrer.—When you buy butter, trust not to that 
 which may be good in external appearance, but try in 
 the middle, and if your smell and taste be good, you 
 cannot be deceived. 
 
 CuerEse.—If old cheese be rough-coated, rugged, or 
 _ dry at top, beware of little worms called hoppers, and 
 | also of mites, a still smaller animal. If it be full of 
 holes, moist, or spongy, hoppers may be expected to be 
 found init. If any crack or any soft and perished place 
 appear on the outside, examine into its depth, for the 
 greater part may be hidden within. Cheese is to be 
 chosen by its moist smooth coat. A fat cheese, if of 
 much size, has generally rounded edges, and the sides 
 are swelled out more or less; although excessive swelling 
 out of the sides is not a good sign ; neither is an ele- 
 vation of the top desirable. A poor cheese has usually 
 keen edges, and the sidesare straight. Fat cheese may 
 also be known by rubbing a small portion of it between 
 the finger and thumb: if it soon becomes smooth and 
 soft, melting as it were on the finger by the animal heat, 
 it is fat; but if it remains tough and crumbly, it is not 
 rich nor of prime quality, No cheese should be chosen 
 which has the surface much swelled, such swelling being 
 an indication of its containing holes and being badly 
 
62 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 ‘made, and that it has most probably also an unpleasant 
 
 smell and taste. Besides these indications, no cheese 
 should be purchased without being both tasted and 
 smelled. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON ENGLISH SOUPS 
 AND BROTHS, AND DIRECTIONS CON- 
 CERNING THEM. 
 
 In this part of the work no receipts are given for 
 French soups, but the receipts are confined exclu- 
 sively to English soups and broths. The basis of all 
 soup, and indeed of all broth, except mutton, should be 
 juicy young beef, and pure soft water. It should be re- 
 membered that the trimmings and the bones of fresh 
 meat, the necks of poultry, the liquor in which a joint 
 has been boiled, and the shank-bones of mutton, are ex- 
 cellent additions to the stock-pot, and should be reserved 
 for it. Assoup is the food of childhood and old age, it 
 should be restorative and nourishing. The great de- 
 fect of English soups is, not the want of meat, but the 
 want of a proper boiling or concoction. This radical 
 fault is vilely but vainly attempted to be supplied by the 
 excessive use of seasoning and herbs. The following 
 elementary rules for making nourishing broth, are from 
 the French of Parmentier : 
 
 I. Sound, healthful, fresh viands. 
 
 -IJ. Vessels of earthenware in preference to those of 
 metal, as a less degree of heat keeps them boil- 
 ing; and once heated, a few hot cinders will 
 maintain that slight degree of ebullition which is 
 wanted. 
 
 III. Double the weight of water to that of the nee 
 used. 
 
 IV. A sufficient quantity of common salt to facilitate 
 the separation of the blood and slime that co- 
 agulates under the form of scum. 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 63 
 
 V. In the early stage of the process, such a degree of 
 heat as will throw off the whole scum. 
 
 _ VI. A lower, but an equal temperature, that the soup 
 
 may simmer gently till the substances employed, 
 
 whether nutritive, colouring, or flavouring, are 
 
 perfectly combined with the water, according to 
 
 their several degrees of solubility. 
 
 Great care should also be taken to have all the uten- 
 sils clean. Pots, saucepans, and stewpans, should be 
 well tinned, especially for soups and gravies, as they are 
 _ obliged to remain a long time upon the fire. Whatever 
 is boiled in a brass or copper pot, should be taken out 
 _ while it is hot ; if left to cool, it would have a disagree- 
 _ able taste, and be very unwholesome. As a convincing 
 proof of this, if the liquor that any kind of meat is 
 _ boiled in remains in the pot till the next day, the fat at 
 _ the top will be quite green, and the liquor of course very 
 | pernicious. Iron pots, saucepans, &c., are the most 
 _ wholesome, but they spoil the colour of many articles of 
 _ eookery, therefore are not much used: they are useful 
 | for any thing that would not be discoloured. Pots lined 
 | with earthenware are certainly preferable to any other 
 kind, but they are very expensive. . 
 Let the broth you use for soups, and that for gravies, 
 | be kept separate ; because the broth of the stock-pot, 
 _ being required for white as well as brown sauces, should 
 _ not be coloured; whilst that for soups, unless they be 
 _ white soups, should always be made brown. If, how- 
 ever, you have more coloured broth than you require 
 | for soup, you may apply it to making brown gravies. 
 | An excellent stock-pot may be produced with all the 
 _ bones you can collect, carcasses, and the under or claw- 
 legs of poultry or game :—all bones and parings, in 
 short, of flesh and fowl. Put them into a large pipkin 
 with water; or if you have the liquor in which beef, or 
 mutton, or veal, has been boiled, use it in preference. 
 To this you may add, if you have it, a few ladlefuls of 
 the water in which a ham has been boiled, first skimming 
 off the fat. With the bones, put a bunch of leeks, a 
 
64 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 bunch of green celery, an onion with three cloves stuck 
 into it, a couple of carrots, a turnip, a bit of parsnip, 
 some salt, a bunch of herbs, and two or three sheep's 
 melts, and a small quantity of sugar will also greatly 
 improve the flavour of stock, and indeed of all rich soups. 
 Let the whole stew simmer very slowly during seven or 
 eight hours, keeping it closely covered all the while. 
 Season it with a little salt. When reduced to a good 
 consommeée, and you are satisfied with its flavour, strain 
 it through a sieve, and put it by for use. = 
 
 This broth, if required, may be used for making 
 white soups. 
 
 All soups should be closely covered during their boil- 
 ing, by which the heat will be very much economised. 
 There may be, however, occasionally some deviations 
 from this course, which must depend upon the discretion 
 of the cook. In making soups and broths, stale as well 
 as fat meat should be avoided ; the first will impart an 
 ill taste, and the last will be attended with considerable 
 waste. 
 
 Of the kinds that will keep are brown soup, hare 
 soup, soup of game of any kind, giblet soup, and gene- 
 rally all soups made of the meat of animals of mature 
 growth. Soups into which vegetables and young meats 
 enter in any quantity, are best when fresh made, as these 
 things have a strong tendency to ferment. ‘This also 
 applies to veal and fish soups. This tendency may be 
 partly checked by boiling them up, or changing the 
 vessels. ! 
 
 The best meat soups are, beyond question, those 
 which are made from the lean alone, without much, if 
 any, fat. 
 
 In making peas - soup with dry peas, soft water 
 should be used; with green peas, hard water, which 
 contributes to the preservation of their colour. 
 
 The time required for the preparation of soups by 
 boiling, varies ; but, in general, from four to six hours 
 will be necessary ; six hours or more may, sometimes, 
 be too much. 
 
 ‘ 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. > GB 
 
 A soup should never be permitted to grow cold in the 
 vessel in which it has been boiled. If not immediately 
 wanted, it should be poured out into a clean pan; one 
 made of stoneware is the best, as neither salt nor acids 
 will act upon it, a consideration of essential importance 
 in all cookery. While cooling, the soup should not be 
 covered over; nor indeed is it desirable to cover soup 
 after it is cold, except with a hair-sieve. It facilitates 
 the operation, if meat for soup or gravy be cut into 
 pieces of about half a pound each ; and improves both 
 the flavour and colour, if the meat, onions, and carrots 
 be stewed at the bottom of the soup-pot or digester, be- 
 fore the water is added to it, with a bit of butter to pre- 
 vent burning. 
 
 To this previous drawing out of the juices without 
 much or any water, much of the superiority of French 
 soups is to be attributed. Some French cooks, to re- 
 gulate the flavour of soups more exactly, boil the 
 roots, herbs, and vegetables separately to a mash, and 
 then squeeze them and add the juice, till the desired 
 flavour is obtained. 
 
 As long boiling is necessary to make good soup, par- 
 ticularly where the whole or the greater part of the 
 virtues of butchers’ meat are to be extracted, it will be 
 necessary to add more water from time to time as it 
 boils away ; and, in order to save time, it will be best to 
 add the water boiling, or, at least, very hot to the soup. 
 In the addition of herbs, other vegetables or condiments, 
 eare should be taken that they are in such quantities 
 that no one may predominate, unless, as is sometimes 
 the case with celery or onion, it is desired, that there 
 should be a predominancy of a particular flavour. 
 
 As celery is so generally used to flavour soups, the 
 cook should know that, when the root is scarce, the seeds 
 bruised and added to the soup a few minutes only be- 
 fore it is served up, will flavour it well; indeed, the 
 seeds will be generally found superior to the root for the 
 purpose of flavouring. Boiling the seeds, however, for a 
 long time, will dissipate their essential oil on which 
 
 F 
 
66 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 their flavour chiefly depends. This observation applies 
 with equal force to all the spices, the long boiling of 
 which, in open vessels, must necessarily dissipate their 
 oils in which their good qualities reside : indeed, some- 
 times a few drops of their essential oil, as of cinnamon 
 or cassia, will supply the place of the spice itself. The 
 same may be said also of horse-radish root, a very 
 wholesome condiment, and not so often employed in 
 soups and other cookery as it deserves to be. This root 
 may be used in pea-soup; the best way is to cut it 
 into small shavings, and boil it for a short time with the 
 soup, just before it is ready to be served up. - 
 
 The boiling of poultry and game in the stock-pot, is 
 a practice very common abroad. When stewed enough 
 to be tender, they should be served immediately with a 
 good sauce. 
 
 In regard to Broths some of the general directions 
 concerning boiling must be carefully attended to, as 
 well as the preceding observations on the preparation of 
 soups. Broth may be made from the coarsest pieces of 
 meat and of any strength, by adapting the water to the 
 quantity of meat, and by sufficient boiling. To make 
 the broth good the meat should be always boiled till it is 
 tender and will separate without difficulty from the 
 bones. In every case, as well of broth as of soup, in 
 order to obtain them with the least boiling, and conse- 
 quently most economically, the meat should be cut into 
 small pieces, the bones, if large, broken, and the joints, 
 such as those in a neck of mutton, separated, unless the 
 meat be wanted to be served up with the broth or other- 
 wise as a whole joint. It is also most advisable to use 
 plenty of water, and to let it escape during the boiling : 
 the virtues of the meat will be thus most effectually ob- 
 tained. Broths as well as soups should be frequently 
 skimmed during: their boiling. 
 
 For economical purposes broth is generally thickened 
 with oatmeal, and sometimes milk is added to it: but a 
 more desirable method is to thicken it with rice flour, 
 which, after having passed through a lawn sieve, should 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 67 
 
 be mixed well with the ingredients required for flavour- 
 ing the soup. Particular care should be taken that the 
 vermicelli, macaroni, and other pastes used for soups be 
 fresh, for by keeping they imbibe an unpleasant, musty 
 flavour, which will communicate itself to the soups, &e. 
 
 Broths are flavoured with various things: parsley is 
 one of the most common ; leeks, onions, petals of mari- 
 gold-flowers, and thyme have also their advocates : salt 
 is of course indispensable. 
 
 If a broth be set by to cool after being made before it 
 is wanted, it should not be covered during its cooling; 
 when cold, to make it more delicate, the fat should be 
 carefully taken off. 
 
 When soups or gravies are required to be very rich, 
 the meat should be cut into slices, and put into a stew- 
 pan or sauce-pan, with a piece of butter at the bottom, 
 and herbs at the top of the meat; and set it on the fire, 
 without water, to draw the gravy ; stir it well with a 
 fork, to prevent it burning; then add water or broth, 
 according to the strength you wish to have it. Any 
 bones of roast meat broken to pieces and stewed with it 
 is a great improvement. 
 
 When soups are served with meats in them, or savoury 
 force balls, as mutton broth, ox-tail, giblet, mock turtle, 
 &c., be careful to serve both the fish and the meat 
 equally, and not to give one guest an undue portion of 
 the meat, and another an undue portion of the soup. 
 The best way to achieve this purpose is by pressing the 
 ladle down to the bottom, stirring the ingredients toge- 
 ther, and then filling the plates as they are brought in 
 succession. 
 
 A clear jelly of cow-heels is very useful to keep in 
 the house, being a great improvement to soups and 
 gravies. ‘Truffles and morels thicken soups and sauces, 
 and give them a fine flavour. Wash half an ounce of 
 each carefully, then simmer them a few minutes in water, 
 and add them with the liquor to boil in the sauce, &c., 
 till tender. 
 
 F2 
 
68 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 If richness or greater consistency is wanted, a good 
 lump of butter mixed with flour and boiled in the soup, 
 will give it both these qualities. 
 
 Green peas intended for soup require hard water to 
 
 boil them in ; but old peas are best in soft water. 
 
 Take care all the greens and herbs used in soups are 
 well washed, picked clean, and supplied in just propor- 
 tions, so that no one herb may be predominant. It is 
 best not to cut the thyme with the other herbs, but put 
 a sprig into the pot; the leaves of thyme are so hard 
 that it is generally disapproved of ; asprig put into the 
 broth produces the same flavour. The elegance of all 
 clear gravy brown soups consists in ¢ransparency, united 
 with richness and flavour ; of white soups, and fish and 
 vegetable soups, in the goodness of the desired colour, 
 and in fulness on the palate. 
 
 Soup may be made in an infinity of ways. There is 
 no end to the combinations of meat, game, fish, herbs, 
 roots, spices, and mucilage, with water ; but the basis of 
 the best soup, where expense is no object, is, as we have 
 said, beef—fresh, full of juices, young, succulent, and 
 not too fat—the lean parts of an equally fattened 
 animal. Oneof the great faults of English soup is that 
 there is too much bad wine and too little good meat in 
 their constitution. Soups in general require about five 
 hours’ boiling. 
 
 Soup that is put by for use should not be covered 
 Shee particularly while hot, as it is apt to turn sour in one 
 
 ay. 
 
 sae there is any fear of gravy meat being spoilt 
 before it be wanted, season well and fry it lightly, which 
 will preserve it two or three days longer ; but the gravy 
 is best when the juices are fresh. | 
 
 When fat remains on any soup, a tea-cupful of flour 
 and water mixed quite smooth, and boiled in, will take it 
 off. 
 
 Long boiling is necessary to give the full flavour of 
 the ingredients, therefore time should be allowed for 
 
 
 
 : 
 : 
 : 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 69 
 
 soups and gravies; and they are best if made the day 
 before they are wanted. 
 
 Soups and gravies are far better when the meat is put 
 at the bottom of the pan and stewed, and the herbs, 
 roots, &c., with butter, than when water is put to the 
 meat at first; and the gravy that is drawn from the 
 meat should be almost dried up before the water is put 
 to it. Do not use the sediment of gravies, &c., that 
 have stood to be cold. When onions are strong boil a 
 turnip with them, if for sauce ; this will make them 
 mild. Onions for improving the colour or thickening 
 broth, soups, &c., may be kept any length of time by re- 
 moving the outer skin and drying them gradually in the 
 oven, flattening them in the shape of Norfolk biffins, 
 and giving a high colour to them. A quarter of one of 
 . these onions is sufficient for a tureen of soup. 
 
 Broth is the essence and foundation of all cookery. 
 Among our neighbours, the French, the broth-pot may 
 be said to be the substratum of the cookery of the 
 middle and working classes. To them it yields a sub- 
 stantial nourishment. Any parings, or trimmings of 
 meat, will serve to make the first broth, provided the 
 scum and fat be carefully removed. If this be not sedu- 
 lously attended to, the broth will be too highly coloured 
 to mix with the sauce. Those, therefore, who are charged 
 with the stock-pots, should skim them slowly over a 
 gentle fire, adding at intervals a little cold water, that 
 the scum may rise more copiously. Broth should always 
 be in the larder of a good kitchen, as it is perpetually 
 required for sauces, braises, soups, consommés, and 
 essences. 
 
 Breer Juice.—Butter the bottom of your stew-pan, 
 put into it layers of fat bacon, cut four large onions in 
 halves, and lay the flat part over the bacon, take a few 
 good slices of beef, with any trimmings, or carcasses of 
 fowl or game, put these on as in the veal gravy, add two 
 ladlefuls of beef stock, place it over a gentle fire to 
 sweat, to get all the gravy out of the beef, and when the 
 broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat; let it 
 
 
 
70 SOUPS AND BROTHS, 
 
 stew gently on a slow fire, till the gravy (or glaze) is 
 of a light brown colour. Take up a little on the 
 point of a knife, and if it rolls between the fingers 
 without sticking to them, fill the stew-pan with boiling 
 beef stock, throw in a large bunch of parsley and green 
 onions, a little salt, and peppercorns, give it five or six 
 hours’ boiling, skim the fat off, and put into it the white 
 of an egg beaten with a little cold stock to elarify. 
 
 Common Beer Srock, called by the French, Granp 
 Bovurton.— Wash and clean a leg or shin of beef, break 
 the bone in one or two places, and any trimmings you 
 may have of meat, game, or poultry, such as the heads, 
 necks, gizzards, feet, &c., and fill the pot three parts 
 full of cold water, place it by the side, or over a slow 
 fire, watch and stir it up well from the bottom, and the 
 moment it begins to simmer, skim it carefully. If this . 
 broth is not clear and bright, the other broths and sauces 
 will be spoiled, add cold water to make the remaining 
 scum rise, and skim again. When all the scum has been 
 removed, and the surface of the broth quite clear, put in 
 a carrot or two, one or two turnips, two heads of celery, 
 two leeks, and four onions, one to be stuck with five cloves; 
 throw in a handful (not too large) of salt, and let the 
 whole simmer gently for four or five hours, according to 
 the quantity of the meat. .Skim away all the fat, and 
 strain the broth through a double silk sieve into a clean 
 and dry stone-pan, and place it in the coldest place you 
 have. This first broth serves to moisten all the other 
 broths, soups, and sauces: stew no longer than the ~ 
 meat is thoroughly done to eat, and you will obtain 
 _ excellent broth, without depriving it of its nutritious 
 quality. 
 
 You may lay the beef in a braizing pan, pour over it 
 some of the broth to keep it hot till it is wanted. . 
 
 Bionp pE VeEAU (Brown EssENcCE OF VEAL).— 
 Butter thoroughly the bottom of a middle-sized stew- 
 pan, lay in it some lean ham, a fowl, an under nut rump, 
 and knuckle of veal, removing the bone from the end; 
 then add three ladlefuls of beef stock, two carrots, and 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS, 71 
 
 two onions. Cover the stew-pan, and place it over a 
 quick fire, and when the essence is falling to a glaze, 
 pierce the meats with the point of a knife, that all the 
 gravy may run out, set it again on the fire to draw out 
 the whole of the juice, and when the glaze becomes of a 
 fine red colour, and if it rolls between the fingers with- 
 out sticking to them, fill it up with beef stock, set it to 
 boil slowly for four hours at the corner of the stove, that 
 it may become very clear, then strain it through a nap- 
 kin into a basin. The blond de veau is useful to colour 
 soups, and to work the brown sauces. It is also used 
 for the roasts, and to moisten various entrées. 
 
 Reat Turtite Soupr.—This soup is generally ob- 
 ‘tained ready prepared, either from the Waterloo Hotel, 
 Liverpool; the Bush Inn, at Bristol, kept by Mr. 
 Weekes; the City of London Tavern, in Bishopsgate- 
 street ; Kays, in Aldersgate-street ; or the London 
 Coffee House, Ludgate Hill. Latterly, Mr. Gunter ad- 
 vertises jars, ready prepared, in the Brazil and West 
 Indies. There are some who prefer the Liverpool me- 
 thod of preparing it, while others relish the Bristol. 
 There are few who will attempt to make this soup at 
 home, but as this is a cookery book for all—for cooks 
 as well as the public at large—it is deemed necessary to 
 give two receipts, the first the production of the cele~ 
 brated Caréme. 
 
 Some years ago the great emporium of turtle was at 
 Mr. Bleaden’s, the King’s Head, in the Poultry, from 
 whence supplies were sent all over London. The weight 
 of aturtle varies from 30 to 500, or 600 lbs.; and the 
 price from 2s. 6d. to 5s. per lb. The cooking is gene- 
 rally performed by a professed artist, whose fee is from 
 one to two guineas. Some epicures of note have been 
 _known to prefer it cut into steaks and broiled, to be 
 eaten with melted butter, Cayenne pepper, and the juice 
 of a Seville orange, and these gourmands say that the 
 flesh thus simply dressed retains more of its true flavour 
 than when made into callipash and callipee. 
 
 Turtle generally arrives about the latter end of May, 
 
¥2 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 or the beginning of June, though, from the uncertainties 
 of a sea-voyage, no exact period for its first appearance 
 can be fixed. In the year 1814, it was so unusually late, 
 that at the magnificent banquet given in Guildhall to 
 the Emperor of Russia and the King of Prussia, on the 
 18th of June, there was no turtle to be had. 
 
 This soup is, says Caréme, the most lengthened in its 
 details of any that are known; “ the composition of its 
 seasoning claims an able hand and a strong memory : 
 the palate of the cook who executes it should be very 
 fine; none of the ingredients should predominate, not 
 even the Cayenne or allspice, which the English cooks 
 inconsiderately employ.” 
 
 First part of the Operation.—The day before serving, ' 
 tie the turtle by the hinder fins with a strong cord, and 
 suspend him; cut off the head, and let him bleed through- 
 out the night ; early the next day commence by opening 
 the two shells, pressing the blade of a knife:all round 
 the under shell, but not so deep as to touch the intestines; 
 then throw out all the water it contains. There are 
 some who remove carefully the heart, the liver, and the 
 genital parts, but this operation is useless. All the in- 
 testines should be thrown away, but be careful to remove 
 all the fat that can be found on them. Then raise one 
 of the members with all the flesh which attaches it to 
 the large shell, and so proceed with the other three; cut 
 off the flesh near to the joints of the large bones: in 
 these you will find flesh like a nut of veal trimmed, of 
 which different entrées are made; the under nut re- 
 sembles the first, and is also made use of for entrées. 
 
 Second part of the Operation.—For a turtle of one 
 hundred and fifty to two hundred pounds, cut up two 
 large legs of veal, also some lean ham im slices, which 
 lay at the bottom of alarge stew-pan, buttered, then put 
 in the veal, eight fowls, four carrots, four large onions, 
 and beef-stock to moisten only the surface of the meat ; 
 set the pan over a quick fire, and let the reduction pro- 
 ceed slowly that the glaze may become of a fine light 
 colour, then fill the pan up with beef-stock, and let it 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. Uo 
 
 boil; strain and thicken it afterwards with a rouw slightly 
 coloured, to obtain an Espagnol, or a sauce somewhat 
 thick. Whilst this sauce is boiling, place the flesh of the 
 turtle not required for an entrée (except the fins and 
 shells), at the bottom of a stew-pan slightly buttered, 
 and sweat them with a little stock upom a very slow fire, 
 that they may simmer only for three to four hours, so as 
 to obtain an essence; then get the largest pan possible, 
 as the turbot kettle, &c., and fill it three parts full of 
 boiling water, throw in the four fins, then the two large 
 shells; if they cannot be covered entirely, be careful to 
 turn them so as to take off all the scales that are on the 
 shells; when the scales can be detached, take them off, as 
 also all the smaller ones found on the fins and head: this 
 finished, replace the turtle in boiling water for three or 
 four hours, skimming it perfectly, observing from time 
 to time if the flesh of the fins is done enough to take 
 up; when the flesh of the shell separates from the bones, 
 take them up and lay them to cool on a baking-sheet. 
 Third part of the Operation.—Whilst the meat is 
 boiling, set over the fire a seasoning thus prepared : putin 
 a stew-pan half of the nut of a ham cut in large dice, with 
 four carrots, four onions, four pottles of mushrooms cut 
 in slices, one pound of butter, twenty anchovies washed, 
 a small handful of whole parsley, about half of that 
 quantity of thyme, basil, marjoram, rosemary, savory, 
 ten bay-leaves, a good pinch of cloves, as much Cayenne 
 pepper, allspice, mace, long pepper, white pepper, and 
 two ladlefuls of consommé; simmer the whole over a 
 slow fire for three hours, after which rub the whole 
 through a tammy, and set it away in a bain Marie stew- 
 an. 
 3 Fourth part of the Operation.—Now strain the es- 
 sence of the turtle through a tammy, reduce it separately 
 to a strong glaze; at length, when the flesh, the fins, 
 the head, and shells are cold, remove all the flesh and 
 cut it in small squares one inch wide, trimming them 
 neatly, and removing all the fleshy particles from them : 
 thus prepared, boil the turtle in eight bottles of dry Ma- 
 
74 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 deira wine for half an hour, and afterwards turn it into the 
 large pan containing the Espagnol perfectly clarified and 
 passed through a tammy; add three-fourths of the sea- 
 soning passed as a purée, let it boil for ten minutes; 
 taste it to be certain of its flavour: if necessary, add 
 the remainder of the purée, acting very cautiously, as 
 no particular thing should predominate on the palate. 
 Add fifty small eggs thus prepared: pound six yolks of 
 eggs boiled hard, mix salt and fine pepper, a little grated 
 nutmeg, three raw yolks of eggs, and a little béchamel; 
 form this into balls of the size of a nutmeg, poach them in 
 boiling consommé, and put them in the soup; after boil- 
 ing a minute, divide the soup in basins, large enough to 
 hold sufficient for from twelve to fifteen persons ; observe 
 to put in each of the basins equal portions of the meat, 
 eggs, and fat of the turtle; quenelles of fowl, and 
 mushrooms (very white) may be added. At the com- 
 mencement of this soup, mark off at the same time the 
 Espagnol, the dressing of thé turtle, and the seasoning, 
 so that the three great operations should proceed toge- 
 ther, and thus be finished more promptly, for all these 
 details require much care and time: it is an awkward 
 affair to make this soup on the same day as a large 
 dinner. This soup has been served clear, by drawing 
 down a good blond de veau, then the essence of the 
 seasoning, and reducing the stock from the turtle ; then 
 pass off the meats in the Madeira wine, and having 
 boiled it half an hour, add the Madeira to the blond de 
 veau, mixed with the essence and the stock of the turtle, 
 adding the flesh of a lemon cut in slices, and four whites 
 of eggs to clarify it, and running it through a napkin : 
 but the soup thickened is far preferable. : 
 
 TurTLE Soup, No. 2.—If you wish to make turtle 
 soup with less difficulty, cut off the head the preceding 
 day. In the morning open the turtle: this is done by 
 leaning heavy with your knife on the shell of the animal’s 
 back, whilst you cut it off all round. Turn it upright 
 on its end, that all the water, &c., may run out. Then 
 cut the flesh off along the spine, with your knife sloped 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. . 75 
 
 towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which 
 sometimes might escape your eye. When you have ob- 
 tained all the flesh that is about the members, wash them 
 clean, and let them drain. Have ready a large vessel 
 full of boiling water on the fire, put in the shells, and 
 when you perceive they come off easily, take them out 
 of the water, and prick all the shells of the back, belly, 
 fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly till you can 
 take off the bones, without, however, allowing the softer 
 parts to be sufficiently done, as they must boil again in 
 the sauce. When these latter come off easily, lay them 
 on earthern dishes singly, for fear they should stick to- 
 gether, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which 
 you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones 
 stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to 
 moisten all the sauces. 
 
 All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and 
 head, must be sweated in the following manner: Lay 
 a few slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stew- 
 pan. Lay over the ham two or three knuckles of veal, 
 according to the size of the turtle, and over the veal the 
 inside flesh of the turtle, and the members over the 
 whole. Then partly moisten it with the water in which 
 you are boiling the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. You 
 can ascertain if the meat be thoroughly done by thrust- 
 ing your knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no 
 blood issue, moisten it again with the liquor in which 
 the bones, &c., have been boiling; put in a large bunch 
 of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a 
 turtle: sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, anda 
 handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion 
 stuck with six cloves. Let the whole be thoroughly done. 
 
 With respect to the members, probe them to see whether 
 
 they are done, and when done, drain and send them to 
 the larder, as they are to make their appearance only 
 when the sauce is absolutely completed. 
 
 When the flesh is also completely done, drain it 
 through a silk sieve; make a white thickening very thin, 
 
76 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 for turtle soup must not be much thickened ; when the 
 flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good 
 colour, moisten it with the liquor, and turn this sauce 
 over the fire till it boils. : 
 
 Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too 
 thin, and then put the stew-pan on the side of the stove, 
 and skim off all the white scum, and all the fat and oil 
 that rises on the surface of the sauce. By this time all 
 the softer parts will be cold enough; cut them about an 
 inch or two square, without waste, throw the whole into 
 this sauce, which may simmer gently. Then try them 
 again, for if done enough, they are not to be kept on 
 the fire any longer. Skim off all the fat and froth. 
 Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock, put 
 them in a stew-pan with about a quarter of a pound of 
 fresh butter. Let this simmer on a slow fire till they 
 are quite melted, then pour in one bottle of good Ma- 
 deira wine, adding a small bit of sugar, and let this boil 
 gently for one hour. When done, rub this through a 
 tammy, and put it into the sauce. Let this boil till the 
 white scum ceases to rise; then take with a skimmer all 
 the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean 
 stew-pan ; when you have all out, pour the sauce over 
 the bits of turtle through a tammy, and proceed as 
 follows :— 
 
 Make some quenelles @ tortue (turtle quenelles), which 
 being substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very 
 delicate. ‘They are made in the following manner: 
 Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about one 
 pound, scrape off all the meat without leaving any 
 sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity 
 of crumbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, 
 squeeze it, and put it into a mortar with the veal, a small 
 quantity of calf’s udder, a little butter, the yolks of 
 four eggs boiled hard, a little Cayenne pepper, salt, and 
 spices, and pound the whole-very fine. ‘Then thicken 
 ee mixture with two whole eggs and the yolk of an- 
 other. 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. vt 
 
 Next try this farce or stuffing in boiling hot water, to 
 ascertain its consistency. If you find it too thin, add 
 the yolk of an egg; poach it in salt and boiling water, 
 and when very hard, drain on a sieve, and put it into 
 the turtle. 
 
 Before you send up, squeeze the juice of two or three 
 lemons, with a little Cayenne pepper, and pour it into 
 the soup. The fins may be served as a plat d’entrée, or 
 side dish, with a little turtle sauce ; if not, on the fol- 
 lowing day you may warm the turtle in the hot water 
 bath, and serve the members entire with a matelotte 
 sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks’-combs, que- 
 nelles, &c. When either lemon-juice or Cayenne pepper 
 have been introduced, no boiling must take place. It is 
 necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared the day 
 before it is used, is generally preferred, the flavour being 
 more uniform. 
 
 Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to 
 preserve the green fat (be cautious not to strive after avery 
 brown colour, as the natural green of the fish is preferred 
 by every epicure and true connoisseur) in a separate stew- 
 pan, and likewise when the turtle is entirely done, to have 
 as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. You 
 cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons : 
 first, it will be long in cooling ; secondly, when you take 
 some out it will break the rest into fragments. If you 
 warm in a hot water bath, the turtle will always retain 
 the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes strong, 
 and loses the delicacy of its flavour. 
 
 N.B.—It is not the fashion to serve eggs with turtle, 
 but it may be necessary to inquire whether they are pre- 
 ferred, 
 
 Some people require besides, turtle fricandeaux, fri- 
 cassees, &c., all of which are prepared in the same manner 
 as veal. 
 
 LEVERET sour.—Cut up two young leverets as for a 
 civet, pass them gently in a stew-pan containing half a 
 pound of thin bacon cut in dice, with four ounces of 
 butter clarified; when again cold, mix two spoonfuls of 
 
78 - SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 flour, a bottle of Bordeaux wine, and four ladlefuls of 
 consommé, also a large bunch of parsley seasoned with 
 a little thyme, basil, marjoram, savory, and bay-leaf, a 
 pottle of mushrooms whole, two large onions, a pinch of 
 Cayenne, two cloves, a little mace and pepper; when it 
 boils, set the stew-pan at the corner of the stove to simmer 
 gently, and skim it perfectly; when the meat is done, 
 drain it on a baking-sheet, trimming off the bones that 
 extend beyond the flesh, arrange them with the bacon in 
 a stew-pan, and squeeze the sauce through a tammy upon 
 them. It should not be too salt, but of a good flavour. 
 This soup has some analogry to the turtle. 
 
 ENGLISH SOUPS. 
 
 Mock TurtLte Soup.—Make a good brown stock of 
 veal and beef the day before you want your soup, in which 
 should be onions, carrots, turnips, and celery, mace, cloves, 
 and peppercorns well strained. When cold take off the fat. 
 Take a calf’s head with the skin on, to be well scalded 
 until near simmering, and washed well—cut it up into 
 small pieces off the bones, then put in bones and meat 
 to your stock, and boil all gently for two hours, then 
 clean the meat off the bones and take them out ; thicken 
 with flour and water, add the juice of two lemons, two 
 table-spoonfuls of Dr. Kitchener’s sauce, half a pint of 
 Madeira or sherry, season with Cayenne and salt to taste. 
 Make your egg balls and force-meat balls the size of a 
 pigeon’s ego, and let all boil up together ten minutes. 
 (This will keep two or three weeks.) 
 
 Sprinc Soup.—Take carrots, turnips, heads of 
 celery, and small onions, cut into the shape of olives, 
 blanch them, in winter; but in summer, fry them with a 
 little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth with a 
 little sugar. Put the soup in the corner of the stove to 
 skim away all the butter. Have ready the green tops of 
 asparagus and French beans cut into lozenges, which 
 have been boiled separately in water very green, put 
 them into the soup, when you send up, with slices of 
 crust of bread cut of the size of a penny, and soaked 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 79 
 
 separately in a little broth; if you have any peas, you 
 may put in some likewise, to boil with the soup. 
 GARDENER’S SOUP; OR, A LA JARDINIERE.—This is 
 like all other Spring soups, only add leaves of sorrel and 
 lettuce, without the stalks. Vegetable soups are in 
 general very wholesome, and have always the same 
 taste. The cutting of the vegetables forms the only 
 
 variety. 
 
 Rice Sour, wH1TE.—Instead of the broth of common 
 soup, take either stock-broth, or the liquor in which a 
 knuckle of veal has been boiled, and proceed with the 
 rice in the manner indicated for brown rice soup. When 
 the rice is done, pour in gradually a pint of good milk 
 boiled. Season to your taste. When the soup is taken 
 from the fire, and its temperature a little reduced, stir in 
 a liaison made of the yolks of three eggs beaten up with 
 a little grated nutmeg. 
 
 CaBBacGe Sovur.—This is not only a cheap soup 
 for a family, but good and wholesome. It affords, besides, 
 an excellent and substantial dish of meat and vegetables. 
 Put into a two-gallon pipkin a pound and a half of the 
 serag end of neck of mutton, two pounds of the best 
 streaked bacon, a quarter of a pound of pig’s or bullock’s 
 liver, and two sheep’s melts. Fill the pipkin two-thirds 
 full of cold water. When boiled and skimmed, add a 
 large cabbage, or two smaller ones, cleaned and split into 
 quarters, but not divided, a couple of carrots cut into 
 bits, a bunch of leeks also cut small, two potatoes, an 
 onion with three cloves, and a clove of garlic. Let the 
 whole boil very gently during three hours. When it 
 has boiled two hours add any seasoning that may be re- 
 quisite, and also a burnt crust of bread in a small net, 
 so that it may be taken out when the soup is done. 
 Take up the bacon and other meat, and put it into a 
 dish. Cover it with the cabbage well drained, leaving, 
 however, sufficient cabbage in the soup. Put some 
 crusts into a tureen as for common soup, and when satu- 
 rated, pour the soup over it with the remaining cabbage 
 and vegetables. The rest of the broth must be strained, 
 
80 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 and will serve for soup next day, any cold cabbage left 
 being added to it. The cabbage must not, however, be 
 left to get cold in the broth, nor added to it until re- 
 
 quired to be warmed up in the soup. 
 
 Autumn Sovr.—Cut three large carrots into slices 
 about the thickness of a dollar, a turnip into thin slices, 
 two onions into quarters, a bunch of leaks, and two heads 
 of celery into bits, and some of the tender stalks of cab- 
 bage and cabbage leaves into thin slices. Put all this to 
 fry in an ounce and a half of butter, over a slow fire. 
 Keep stirring it until the vegetables have stewed some 
 time ; then moisten with three quarts of water. When 
 the vegetables are nearly done, add half a dozen to- 
 matas, peeled and cut up, taking care that none of the 
 juice is lost. Before the vegetables are done, add also a 
 thickening made with a little flour or potato-starch, and 
 water. When the whole is ready, stir in half a table- 
 spoonful of fat from the jar, or of clarified goose- 
 dripping. Then serve up in a soup tureen. 
 
 Mock Turtie Sour (Another fashion).—Parboil a 
 calf’s head, take off the skin, and cut it in bits about an. 
 inch and a half square, cut the fleshy parts in bits, take 
 out the black part of the eyes, and cut the rest in rings, 
 skin the tongue, and cut it in slices, add it all to three 
 quarts of good stock, and season it with Cayenne, two 
 or three blades of mace, salt, the peel of half a lemon, 
 and half a pint of white wine, with about a dozen of 
 force-meat balls; stew all this an hour anda half, rub 
 down with a little cold water, two table-spoonfuls of 
 flour, mix well amongst it half a pint of the soup, and 
 then stir it into the pot; put in the juice of half a large 
 lemon, and the hard boiled yolks of eight eggs; let it 
 simmer for ten minutes, and then put it all in the tu- 
 reen. 
 
 Mock Tortie Sour (Another fashion).—Cut a 
 ealf’s head, with the skin on, in halves, clean it well, 
 parboil it, and cut all the meat in small square pieces; 
 then break the bones, and boil them in some beef broth; 
 fry some shalots in butter, and add enough of flour to 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 81 
 
 thicken the gravy, stir this into the browning, and give 
 it a boil, taking off the scum; then add a pint of Ma- 
 deira, and let the whole simmer till the meat is perfectly 
 tender ; when nearly enough, throw in some chives, 
 parsley, basil, salt, Cayenne pepper, one spoonful of soy, 
 and three of mushroom ketchup ; then squeeze a little 
 lemon juice into the tureen, pour your soup on it, and 
 serve with forcemeat balls, 
 
 A very cheap mock turtle soup may be made by 
 baking three cow-heels, with herbs, &c., as above, to 
 which must be added pieces of boiled cow-heel and veal. 
 
 Mock TurtLe (Another fashion).—Scald a calf’s 
 head with the skin, or saw it in two; take out the 
 brains, tie the head up in a cloth, and let it boil 
 for one hour, then take the meat from the bones, cut 
 it into small square pieces, and wash them clean in cold 
 water; then put the meat into a stew-pan, with as much 
 good broth as will cover it; let it boil gently for an hour, 
 or until quite tender, then take it off the fire; put a piece 
 of butter into another stew-pan, with half a pound of 
 lean ham, or gammon of bacon, cut very fine; some 
 chopped parsley, sweet marjoram and basil, three onions, 
 some chopped mushrooms, and a few shalots; put a pint of 
 broth, or gravy to the herbs and butter; set them on a 
 stove or slow fire, and let them simmer for two hours ; 
 put as much flour as will dry up the butter ; add some 
 good broth, or gravy, sufficient to make two tureens ; also 
 a pint of Madeira or sherry ; let it boil a few minutes, 
 rub it through a sieve, and put it to the calf’s head: put 
 forcemeat balls, and egg balls; season it with Cayenne 
 pepper, and a little salt if wanted; squeeze two Seville 
 oranges and one lemon ; add a little fine spice and sugar 
 to make it palatable. 
 
 Mock Turtie.—The French cooks who have lived in 
 England have attempted to improve on our Mock 
 Turtle Soup. The following is the manner generally 
 adopted by these artists in preparing it. The receipt is 
 M. Ude’s, for a long while cook to Karl Sefton, after- 
 wards cook to Crockford’s Club. 
 
 G 
 
82 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 “Take a calf's head very white and fresh, bone the 
 nose part of it ; put the head into some warm water 
 to discharge the blood. Squeeze the flesh with your 
 hand to ascertain that it is all out. Mind the water 
 should never be too hot for you to bear your hand 
 in it; as long as you can bear it, the blood will come 
 out, but if you suffer it to be too hot, it will turn the 
 head black. When well disgorged, blanch the head in 
 boiling water; when firm, put it into cold water, prepared 
 as a blanc in the following way to boil it in: cut half 
 a pound of fat bacon, a pound of beef suet, an onion 
 stuck with a clove, and two slices of lemon ; add to 
 these slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green onions, 
 thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, salt, and pepper; put all 
 these into a vessel, with water enough to contain the 
 head; boil the head in this, and take care to put 
 
 it in a cloth when done, and observe that it be not over- | 
 
 done; let it cool in the liquor, then make the sauce in 
 the following manner. 
 
 “‘ Put into a stew-pan, a pound of ham cut in slices, put 
 over the ham two knuckles of veal, a large onion, and 
 two carrots; moisten with some of the broth in which you 
 have boiled the head, to half the depth of the meat only: 
 cover the stew-pan, and put it over the fire to sweat 
 through, let the broth reduce to a very good colour, turn 
 up the meat for fear of burning. When you have a very 
 good colour, and you find that the glaze is very brown, 
 moisten with the whole broth from the head, season with 
 a large bundle of sweet herbs, viz., sweet basil, sweet 
 marjoram, lemon thyme, common thyme, two cloves, a 
 bay-leaf, a little allspice, parsley, green onions, and a few 
 mushrooms; let this boil together for one hour, then 
 drain it. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of 
 very fresh butter, let it melt over a slow fire; put to this 
 butter as much flour as it can receive; let it simmer gently 
 over a slow fire, till the flour has acquired a very good 
 brown colour; moisten this gradually with the broth, 
 that you put through a silk steve, till you have employed 
 it all; add half a bottle of Madeira; let the sauce boil, 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 83 
 
 that the flour may be well done; take off all the scum 
 and fat; cut the calf’s head into square pieces of about 
 an inch each ; put them to boil in the sauce; season 
 with salt, Cayenne pepper, and lemon-juice, and add 
 some quenelles.—The bit of calf’s head should always 
 have the skin on one side, but you should leave none 
 of the meat on that does not adhere to the skin, other- 
 wise the meat will break in the soup and look unsightly. 
 It is out of fashion now to use eggs, but on this head 
 consult the taste of your principal. 
 
 ** Observe, that you must not have the quenelles too 
 delicate, for they would breakin the soup, and spoil the 
 look of it ; the calf’s head must not be too much done; 
 thrust your knife into the skin, and if the knife enters 
 and detaches itself easily, the meat is done enough. Some 
 gentlemen will have their mock turtle green ; in that 
 case you must proceed as follows : put into a stew-pana 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one or two 
 onions, add a handful of each of the herbs described 
 above, and some parsley, and sweat it all gently over a 
 slow fire. When the herbs are well done, moisten with 
 some of the sauce, and rub it through atammy. Lastly, 
 mix this with the sauce, and the turtle will be green, 
 without any alteration in the flavour.” 
 
 West Inpran Metnop or Dressinc TurtTLE.— 
 Throw it on its back, and be in readiness to cut off its head 
 when it puts it out ; hang it immediately up by the tail, 
 and let it bleed thoroughly. 
 
 _ Next cut out the belly with as much of the meat as 
 possible, and put it into cold water with a handful of 
 salt; now cut the fins off at the joints, and blanch them 
 with the head and shells; wash all the intestines well, 
 slit them open, scrape and pick them very clean, and put 
 them to blanch in a quantity of water; when they 
 are done, take off the inner skins, and cut them in 
 pieces of two inches long ; have some well-made strong 
 knuckle of veal stock, seasoned with parsley, basil, mar- 
 joram, savory, garlic, thyme, mace, and cloves (of each 
 half an ounce powdered), put in the fins, stew gently 
 G2 
 
84 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 till tender, take them out, put in a pint of Madeira, and 
 mix it well by stirring about twenty minutes; beat 
 the juice of two lemons with six whites of eggs; put it 
 in the sauce, and boil it up; let it settle, and strain it 
 through a bag; wash the fins well, and put them in; 
 put all the bones into a stew-pan with the quantity re- 
 quired of prepared stock, an onion, some sweet herbs, 
 and three or four blades of mace; stew it an hour, 
 strain, thicken with flour and butter, add half a pint of 
 Madeira to every three quarts, salt and Cayenne; put 
 butter in a stew-pan, and lay in the white meat and 
 simmer it till nearly done ; simmer the heart and lungs 
 in stock, and season: as for the fins, when done, take 
 them up, strain the stock, thicken, and add a bottle of 
 Madeira, season with Cayenne pepper ‘and salt, rather 
 high ; add the lungs and white meat, and simmer them 
 in the sauce. The farce is to be made of part of the 
 white meat for balls: if there are no eggs, some must 
 be made. 
 
 Season the callapash-shell with Cayenne, Madeira, 
 and salt ; border it with paste, fill up the neck-hole, and 
 fill it with turtle. Slash the meat on the breast of the 
 callipee-shell, and powder it with sweet herbs and 
 spices. Sprinkle it with Madeira, and cook it in the 
 oven, basting it carefully; or put it on a flat dish, 
 border it with paste leaves, which ought to meet the 
 shell, or the points be laid so as to touch. 
 
 Mock TurtLe witna Cow-Hrrut.—Take the cow- 
 heel, with two pounds of gravy beef, stew them'‘together 
 with onions, parsley, and lemon-peel chopped small, boil 
 four eggs hard, and cut the yolks in; season it to your 
 taste with forcemeat balls. 
 
 First Stock (called by the French Grand Con- 
 sommé).—Put into your stock-pot a large piece of leg, 
 shin, or other part of beef, with a knuckle of veal, an old 
 fowl, a rabbit, an old partridge or two, according to the 
 quantity intended to be made. Let the meat stew on a 
 gentle fire, moisten it with about two large ladlefuls of 
 the first broth (grand bouillon), and stir it well. Put 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 85 
 
 no vegetables into this stock broth, except a bunch of 
 parsley and green onions. Let them sweat thoroughly, 
 then thrust a knife into the meat, and if no blood issue, 
 it is a sign itis heated through; then moisten it with 
 boiling broth to the top, and let it boil gently for about 
 four hours, after which use this broth to make the sauces, 
 or the broths of poultry or game. Take off the fat 
 and scum of all the various broths, and keep the pots 
 full, in order that the broth be not too high in colour ; 
 when the broth remains too long on the fire, it loses its 
 flavour, and acquires too brown a colour. 
 
 Pot au Feu pre Maison (called by the French 
 Broth Restorative).—Put in an earthen pot, sufficiently 
 large, four pounds of beef sliced, a good knuckle of 
 veal, and a fowl half roasted ; add nearly three quarts 
 of cold water, and set it at the side of the fire to skim 
 it gently; add salt, two carrots, a turnip, three leeks, 
 and a half-head of celery tied in a bundle, and a clove 
 stuck in an onion, and let it boil slowly for five hours 
 without ceasing; then take up the roots and trim them 
 neatly ; taste the broth, using but little salt to flavour 
 the soup; skim and add the roots to it, and serve. This 
 is a healthy soup, and good in families. 
 
 CLEAR Gravy Sour.—Have eight pounds of a shin 
 of beef chopped across in two places, and a knuckle 
 of veal, or a scrag, and some shanks of mutton, with 
 any fresh trimmings the larder can furnish, and a 
 piece of ham. Heat and rub hard a nicely-tinned 
 stew-pot; melt in it some butter, or rub it with mar- 
 row. Let the meat, with a slice of carrot, a head 
 of celery, onions, the white part of two leeks, and a 
 turnip sliced, be thoroughly imbued with the heat, 
 but not burn, over a rather quick fire; then add four 
 quarts or better of soft water. Carefully skim, and 
 throw in a pint of cold water to refresh it, taking off 
 what more scum is detached till it become quite limpid. 
 Let the stew-pot simmer slowly by the fire for four hours, 
 without stirring it any more from the bottom, till all 
 the strength is obtained, but not so long as to cause the 
 
86 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 soup to become ropy. Let it settle on the hearth; skim 
 off the fat, and strain off gently what flows freely 
 through a fine sieve or tammy. This clear soup (for it 
 must be very clear) is served under many different names: 
 as Vermicelli, with Vermicelli-paste separately boiled 
 and put to it; Carrot-soup, with carrots cut in straws; 
 Turnip-soup, with turnips scooped ; Celery-soup, As- 
 paragus soup, Green Pea-soup, &c., by adding the 
 ingredient which gives the name. All these additions 
 must be separately cooked. When all or the greater 
 part of these vegetables, stewed and carefully rubbed 
 through a tammy sieve, are added to this strong gray 
 soup, you have the French Cressi-soup. A good F Fonch 
 cook would, however, after chopping the roots, &c., 
 stew them in top-fat, or with butter. The French ge- 
 nerally have their turnip-soup white, the carrot-soup a 
 browny red. . 
 
 - Tur Op Scotcu Brown Sovur.—Make the stock 
 as directed for clear gravy-soup, but brown the meat a 
 little more, and when ready, put to it two pounds of 
 rump-steaks, cut rather small, and browned in the fry- 
 ing-pan, but drained from the fat. Simmer the steaks 
 in the soup for an hour, then strain it, pouring in a small 
 glassful of ketchup, with salt, pepper, and Cayenne. 
 Put toasted sippets into the tureen, and skimming off 
 the filmy fat, serve the soups with the steaks in it. 
 
 A Goop Gravy Sour.—Take a pound of beef, a 
 pound of veal, and a pound of mutton, eut it into 
 pieces, put it into two gallons of water, with an old 
 cock beat to pieces, a piece of carrot, the upper-crust of 
 a small loaf toasted very crisp, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 an onion, a little pepper, four or five blades of mace, 
 and four cloves; cover it, and let it stew over a slow 
 fire till it is reduced to one gallon, then strain it off, 
 and put it into a clean stew-pan, with three table-spoon- 
 fuls of raspings sifted fine, half an ounce of truffles and 
 morels, three or four heads of celery, washed very clean, 
 and cut small, an ox’s palate, first boiled very tender 
 and cut into pieces, a few cocks’-combs, and some hearts 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 87 
 
 of young sayoys; cover it close, and let it simmer very 
 gently over a slow fire two hours; then have ready a 
 French-roll fried, and a few forcemeat balls ; put them 
 in your dish, and pour in your soup. 
 
 GisLet Sour is made of the giblets of four sets of 
 green-geese and ducklings. If for white giblet-soup, 
 put a pint of asparagus peas, and make a liaison of four 
 eggs, and one pint of double cream. When strained, put 
 in a pint of bechamel. 
 
 - Boil your giblets. Cream for soup should be boiled 
 before it is mixed with any soup or sauce. 
 
 _ ANOTHER GIBLET Soup.—Scald the giblets very clean, 
 then put them into cold water, and put them on the fire 
 to blanch. When they come to a boil, take them 
 off the fire, and wash them in several waters; cut 
 each gizzard into about eight pieces, bone the head 
 and pinions before they are put on to blanch, crack 
 the bone of the leg, cut the neck into about: six 
 or eight pieces, put them into a stew-pan with about 
 two quarts of stock, and set them on a stove to 
 boil slowly until very tender; then pull the leg-bones 
 out, and any of the pinion bones that may remain ; leave 
 the feet with the bones in (the livers are of no use in 
 the soup, but may be used for other purposes), boil a 
 quarter of a pound of pearl barley till very tender, then 
 put to the soup, skim very clean from fat before you put 
 your soup into the tureen, add a little salt to taste. To 
 three sets of giblets there should be five pints of soup. 
 Singe your pinions before they are boned, and the heads 
 and necks the same: singe over a stove. 
 
 ANOTHER GiBLET Sour.—Scald and clean three or 
 four sets of goose or duck-giblets; set them to stew, 
 
 with a pound or two of gravy-beef, scrag of mutton, or 
 the bone of a knuckle of veal; an ox-tail, or some 
 shanks of mutton; with three onions, a large bunch of 
 sweet-herbs, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a large 
 spoonful of salt. Put five pints of water, and simmer 
 till the gizzards (which must be each in four pieces) are 
 
88 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 quite tender: skim nicely, and add a quarter of a pint 
 of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom powder, and 
 an ounce of butter mixed with a dessert-spoonful of 
 flour. Let it boil a few minutes, and serve with the 
 giblets. It may be seasoned, instead of cream, with 
 two glasses of sherry or Madeira. Adda large spoonful 
 of ketchup, and some Cayenne. When i in the tureen, 
 add a little salt. 
 
 Game Sour may be made from cold game of any 
 kind, by breaking the bones, cutting the meat in pieces, 
 and boiling both in broth for an hour or more. It may 
 be thickened with the yolks of eggs and some cream, 
 and seasoned according to your fancy, care being taken 
 that the soup is not boiled after the eggs are mixed with 
 it, as boiling will cause the soup to curdle. 
 
 A MoRE ELAzBoraTE GAME Sour.—Put into a mo- 
 derate-sized sauce-pan about three pounds of beef-steak, 
 four old partridges, a knuckle of veal, a pheasant, car- 
 rots, onions, four heads of celery, three cloves, and a 
 bunch of fennel; while it is boiling take three cold 
 roasted partridges and pound them in a mortar, with a 
 piece of crumb of bread, about three times as big: as an 
 ege, and previously soaked in broth; moisten the par- 
 tridges also with broth, and when sufficiently pounded, 
 pass it through a sieve, put to the purée some of the 
 broth, and set it on a gentle fire for some time, taking 
 care that it does not boil. Dip your bread in the usual 
 manner in the soup, and serve. 
 
 Hare Sour.—Take two hares, young ones are the 
 best, skin and wash the inside well, cut them up into 
 pieces, put into a stew-pan, with two or three glasses of 
 port wine, two onions stuck with four cloves, a bunch of 
 parsley, a bay leaf, two sprigs of thyme, sweet basil, 
 marjoram, and a few blades of mace; let the whole 
 simmer upon a stove for one hour. Add as much boil- 
 ing broth as will entirely cover the meat, simmer the 
 whole gently tili the meat is done, strain (or pulp) the 
 meat, put the broth through a hair sieve, and soak the 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS., 89 
 
 erumb of a twopenny loaf in the strained liquor. Sepa- 
 rate the bones from the meat, which pound in a mortar 
 till fine enough to rub through a sieve with the liquor; 
 season according to taste. The soup must not be made 
 too thiek, and be careful that you do not boil it, as boil- 
 ing spoils it. If you wish to make your soup in perfec- 
 tion, preserve all the blood in a basin, when it is ready 
 to serve up keep it very hot, and pour the blood to it, 
 till it is thickened, take care the soup does not curdle, 
 this addition makes the soup black. The blood, it 
 should be remarked, contains much of the flavour of the 
 hare. A quarter of a pint of red wine to a tureen of 
 soup is reckoned an improvement, while there are some 
 who like a large spoonful of currant jelly dissolved in 
 the soup. The fillets cut off along the back-bone may 
 be cut off in small pieces and served up whole in the 
 tureen. It should also be observed that cold roast hare, 
 not overdone, cut to pieces and stewed for an hour in 
 good, well-seasoned broth, will make a good though not 
 a highly-flavoured soup. 
 
 ANOTHER Hare Sovr.—Cut your hare into joints; 
 put into a stew-pan, with a little allspice, three blades of 
 mace, some salt, and whole black pepper, a bundle of 
 parsley, a sprig of lemon thyme, one of wintery savory, 
 four quarts of water, four pounds of beef, a slice of ham, 
 two carrots, and four onions cut down; let it boil till re- 
 duced to three quarts. Separate the hare, and strain 
 the soup over it ; add a pint of port wine ; boil it up 
 before serving. 
 
 Rassrr Soup.—Cut an old rabbit into pieces, put the 
 pieces into a quart of water, boil it well, take out all the 
 bones, and beat the meat in a marble mortar as for 
 potting ; add a little salt, mace, and white pepper to 
 your taste. Stir it into the liquor the rabbit was boiled 
 in with the addition of a little cream. The meat of a 
 whole rabbit is too much for one quart; three pints may 
 be made of it. 
 
 Or Wate Sours 1n Generau.—The stocks for 
 
90 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 white soups are made of veal, mutton, fowl, rabbit, 
 chicken, ox-feet, calf’s head and feet, with bacon and 
 ham. In drawing these stocks a bit of ham, ham-bone, 
 or lean bacon, is used with the usual seasoning. Fish 
 may be used in thickening meat white soups; they give 
 a turtleish lightness and flavour. Eggs make an excel- 
 lent thickening for the poorer kinds; but the richer are 
 more delicate, thickened with almonds and artificial or 
 real cream. Though the stocks be properly made and 
 well-seasoned, the thickening and finishing, neverthe- 
 less, require great eare. . 
 
 Wuite Stock ror Sours anp Sauces. — Cover 
 the sauce-pan with slices of fat ham or lean bacon, and 
 lay over it some bones of veal; cover them with the re- 
 mains of poultry or game ; add a ladleful or two of 
 stock, and let it sweat and fall to a glaze; fill up with 
 stock or warm water, and season with parsley and 
 scallions; let it simmer slowly, closely covered, till it is 
 sufficiently done; it is the better for being seasoned 
 with mushrooms, which every cook may have the: whole 
 year, if she can command the corner of a cellar. This 
 stock is fit for all white soups, fricassees, and sauces, and 
 may be finished by any of the foregoing directions. 
 
 Ox-Heap Sour should be prepared the day before in YY 
 
 is to be eaten, as you cannot cut the meat off the head 
 into neat mouthfuls unless it is cold; therefore the day 
 before you want this soup, put half an ox-cheek into a 
 tub of cold water to soak for a couple of hours; then 
 break the bones that have not been broken at the 
 butcher’s, and wash it very well in warm water ; put it 
 into a pot and cover it with cold water: when it boils, 
 skim it very clean, and then put in one head of celery, 
 a couple of carrots, a turnip, two large onions, two 
 dozen berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, anda. 
 bundle of sweet herbs ; cover the soup-pot close, and set 
 it on a slow fire; take off the scum, which will rise: 
 when it is coming to a boil, and set it by the fire-side to. 
 stew very gently for about three hours; take out the 
 head, lay it ona dish, pour the soup through a fine hair- 
 
 
 

 
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 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 9] 
 
 sieve into a stone-ware pan, and set it by, together with the 
 
 head, inacool place till the next day; then cut the meatinto 
 neat mouthfuls, skim and strain off the broth; put two 
 - quarts of it into a clean stew-pan, let it simmer gently 
 - for half an hour longer, and it is ready. If you wish it 
 
 thickened, put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; 
 when it is melted throw in as much flour as will dry it 
 
 up; when they are all well mixed together and browned 
 _ by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well toge- 
 ther; let it simmer for half an hour longer; strain it 
 
 through a hair sieve into a clean stew-pan, and put it to 
 the meat of the head,—let it stew half an hour longer, 
 and season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of 
 good wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. 
 
 - Ox-CuerEk Sour.—Soak the cheek in water an hour 
 or more, to take out the blood; put it in the braizing-pan 
 with four or five carrots, half a dozen onions, a bunch of 
 thyme and parsley, three or four heads of celery, a little 
 mace, cloves, and salt, with a few peppercorns, first 
 cover it with water; put it in the oven, and let it remain 
 all night; when it comes from the oven, strain off the 
 liquor, and let it settle; then take three cabbage-let- 
 tuces, two heads of celery, six turnips, two leeks, and half 
 a carrot, cut them in fillets, put them in a soup-pot with 
 the liquor strained off, and let them stew till quite tender, 
 skim off the fat, and serve it with the cheek cut in 
 square pieces in a tureen. 
 
 Ox-Tait Sour.—Three tails will make a tureen of 
 soup. Put into a gallon stew-pan eight cloves, two or 
 three onions, a small quantity of allspice, a little black 
 pepper, and the tails ; cover them with cold water; 
 skim it when and as long as you see any scum rise ; 
 then cover the pot as close as possible, and set it on the 
 side of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat. 
 becomes tender and will leave the bones easily, because 
 it is to be eaten with a spoon, without the assistance of 
 a knife or fork ; this will require about two hours; mind 
 it is not done too much ; when perfectly. tender, take out 
 the meat and cut it off the bones into neat. mouthfuls; 
 
92 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 skim the broth and strain it through a sieve ; if you prefer 
 a thickened soup, put butter and flour as directed in the 
 preceding receipt (Ox-head Soup); or put two table-spoon-: 
 fuls of the fat you have taken off the broth into a clean. 
 stew-pan, with as much flour as will make it into a paste; 
 set this over the fire and stir them well together; then 
 pour in the broth by degrees, and stir in the thickening; 
 let it simmer for another half hour, and when you have 
 well skimmed it, and it is quite smooth, then strain it 
 through a tammy into a clean stew-pan; put in the meat, 
 with a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of 
 wine, and season it with salt. 
 
 VEGETABLE Sour.—Lay at the bottom of a stew- 
 pan three rashers of lean bacon, slice two carrots, two 
 turnips, two parsnips, two onions, two potatoes, two 
 heads of celery, and put on the bacon with a small 
 quantity of beef broth, add by degrees as much as will 
 be necessary for the soup, when simmered to a pulp, rub 
 it through a sieve, then return it into the stew-pan with 
 a quarter of a pint of cream or new milk; the broth 
 must be properly seasoned. with pepper and herbs. 
 
 A PurEE OF VEGETABLE Soup.—Let a quantity of 
 dried peas, split peas, haricots, or lentils, be boiled in 
 common water till they are quite tender, let them 
 then be gradually passed through a sieve with distilled 
 water, working the mixture with a wooden spoon to 
 make a purée—let it be made sufficiently liquid with 
 distilled water to bear boiling down, then let a good 
 quantity of fresh vegetables of any or all kinds in their 
 season, especially carrots, turnips, lettuce, celery, spi- 
 nach (with always a few onions), be cut into fine shreds 
 and put into boiling water for three or four minutes to 
 blanch; let them then be taken out with a strainer, 
 added to the purée, and the whole to simmer gently on the 
 fire for at least two hours. A few minutes before taking 
 the soup from the fire let it be seasoned to your taste 
 with salt, pepper, &c.; while the soup is boiling it 
 should be frequently stirred to prevent its sticking.to 
 the sides of the pan, which will give it a singed taste. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 93 
 
 GREEN PrA-Sovur.—Put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter into a stew-pan, about half a pound of lean ham 
 cut in very thin pieces, about half a pint of stock, a quart 
 of green peas, six large onions cut in slices, and four cab- 
 bage-lettuces shreded. Set the stew-pan on a slow stove 
 to simmer for an hour, then put two quarts of stock to 
 it, the crumb of two French rolls, and boil for an hour; 
 blanch off two or three handfuls of spinach, strain off 
 the spinach when it has had a boil, and squeeze it dry ; 
 rub the soup through a tammy, and the spinach with 
 it to give a good colour; boil a pint of younger peas 
 than the soup was made of in a pint of stock; when 
 done, put stock and peas to the soup, a little sugar, 
 and give all a boil; add a little salt if wanted. 
 
 If the soup is for meagre, leave the ham and stock 
 out, only using a double quantity of onions, peas, and 
 lettuce. 
 
 ANOTHER GREEN PeA-Sovur. — Take a sufficient 
 quantity of peas, put them into a pot with onions, car- 
 rots, a bunch of leeks, and celery, with a bone, or some 
 slices of ham or bacon; if they are old, let them be 
 steeped the night before; if new, use them immediately ; 
 toss them in butter, with a handful of parsley and small 
 onions; wet them with good soup; when they are 
 soaked enough, drain, and beat them in a mortar, put 
 them through a search with the juice that was drained 
 out of them; put it into a sauce-pan, and let it simmer 
 four or five hours; stir it often, that it may not stick; 
 skim before stirring it; when it is done, serve it over 
 rice, vermicelli, or fried bread, which must be added 
 at the moment of serving. 
 
 Turnie Sourp.—Pare a bunch of turnips, and put 
 them into a gallon of water (except two or three, which 
 must be kept out), with half an ounce of whole pepper, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, a blade of mace, half a nut- 
 meg grated or bruised, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a 
 crust of bread. Let these boil an hour, fast, then strain 
 it through a sieve, squeezing the turnips through; wash 
 and cut a few heads of celery small, put it in the liquor, 
 
94 SOUPS AND BROTHS, 
 
 and set it on the fire, cover it close, and let it stew. In 
 the mean time, cut the turnips you saved out into dice, 
 with two or three small carrots, scraped clean, and cut 
 into small pieces; put half these turnips and carrots 
 into the pot with the celery, and the other half fry 
 brown in fresh-butter. You must first flour them, and 
 three onions, cut in thin slices, and fried brown; then 
 add them to the soup, with an ounce of vermicelli. Let 
 your soup boil softly till the celery is quite tender, and 
 your soup good. Season it to your palate. 
 
 A Cuear Carrot-Sour.—-Take some beef or mut- 
 ton-broth, have ready the red part of six large carrots, 
 scraped and cut thin, strain the broth on them, and stew 
 the carrot until soft enough to pulp through a hair- 
 sieve or coarse cloth, then boil the pulp with the broth 
 until as thick as pea-soup; use wooden spoons to rub 
 the carrot through ; season it to your taste. af 
 
 ANOTHER ReEcEIPT FOR CARrrot-Soup.— Prepar 
 fifteen or twenty carrots, cut them in slices, put them 
 in a stew-pan, with three-quarters of a pound of good 
 butter, upon a quick fire, and stir them till they are 
 browned, then add some good soup; when enough, rub it 
 through a sieve, and finish it as directed for green pea- 
 soup and lentils; take off the fat, and let it simmer a 
 long time, and serve it in the same manner as the peas 
 soup. 
 
 ‘Turnip-Sourp.—It is done in the same manner as 
 that of carrots, only that it is not browned, and takes 
 less boiling ; it is kept as white as possible. 
 
 CasBaGE-Sour.— Take the cabbages that will be 
 necessary, cut them in quarters, boil them in a great 
 quantity of water, after which throw them into fresh 
 water, take out the stalks, tie them, and put them as 
 directed for lettuce-soup into a stew-pan with a little 
 bacon; nourish by adding more ham, bacon, and butter, 
 and season them still more, and serve them in every 
 way as directed for the lettuce-soup. They require more 
 boiling. 
 
 PEa-Sour.—Soak all night in warm water a pint 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 95 
 
 and a half of the best split-peas. In the morning boil 
 _ them in water, with a little salt, until very tender ; this 
 will take three hours. Pour them in a colander ; when 
 well drained, reduce them to a purée (that is, rubbed to 
 a paste through a sieve). | 
 
 Onron-Sour.—Peel three or four dozen onions, all of 
 a size, blanch and drain them, put them in a small kettle 
 or earthen-ware pot, and moisten them with some soak- 
 ing broth, in which also moisten some crusts or slices 
 of bread; the crust being soaked, place a large crust 
 in the middle, and garnish it with onions. Let your 
 soup be relishing, as well as the broth in which your 
 onions were dressed, and pour the same over your soup, 
 and serve it up hot. 
 
 Onton-Soup (English Fashion).—Take eight or ten 
 large onions, boil them in milk and water till soft, chang- 
 ing the water two or three times, then rub them through 
 a hair-sieve; take some veal gravy and pour on the 
 onions, with crumbs of fine white bread grated into 
 three-fourths of a pint of cream, season it to your taste 
 with salt, white pepper, &c., and then let it boil gently 
 for an hour. 
 
 AwnorHer Onton-Sour (English Fashion).—Take 
 a dozen of onions peeled, and cut them in slices. Put 
 a little butter into a stew-pan with your onions; let them 
 stew till they are a little brown, then stew them with a 
 little flour, and moisten them with either thin pea-soup 
 or water, season them with salt and a little pepper, let 
 them boil about half an hour, adding a little vinegar; 
 then soak some crusts or slices of bread with the same 
 broth in which your onions were dressed, put all in your 
 soup, serve it up hot. 
 
 For other methods of preparing Onion-soup, see 
 French and Foreign Cookery. 
 
 PoTAGE DE SAUTE, wiTH Ontons.—Take a capon, 
 fowl, chicken, or knuckle of veal, well prepared, soak 
 and blanch them, then put them into cold water; then 
 take them out, and put them between two cloths to dry; 
 and if a fowl, pick it very clean, tie it up in a bard or 
 slice of fat bacon with packthread, and put it to boil in 
 
96 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 your broth-pot, or else with your onions; get choice 
 white onions for your use, about the size of a small 
 walnut, or less, cut off the two ends, and blanch them ; 
 take a sufficient quantity, as near as you can, and all 
 of a size, to garnish the rim of your dish ; when your 
 onions are blanched, picked, and skinned clean, put 
 them into a little pot with some good broth, some 
 veal-gravy, and a slice of ham, and let them boil slowly; 
 then put them on a sieve very gently for fear of break- 
 ing them, and let them drain dry; their liquor will 
 serve to simmer the crusts, as usual, moisten them when 
 you are ready to serve. ‘Take crusts of French bread, 
 put them into a stew-pan, strain some very good broth 
 upon them, without fat and well tasted, then soak your 
 crusts as usual; garnish the soup-dish with your onions, 
 dish your bread with your capon upon it, and fill it up 
 with the broth your onions were boiled in, or with veal 
 gravy, or other good broth, and serve it hot. 
 
 A Sour with Hor-Tors.—Blanch your hop-tops, 
 tie them in bunches, and put them over the fire in a 
 kettle or earthen pot, either with some thin pea-soup, 
 or juice of onions, or soaking broth. When done, put 
 some crusts in your soaking broth, and your soup being 
 enough, dish up, and garnish your dish with the hop- 
 tops; put a large crust of bread in the middle, and 
 pour over the broth of the hops, and serve your soup up 
 hot. 
 
 Crt1zEns’ Sovr.—Put in an earthen pot four pounds 
 of beef, and skim it, season it with salt, some cloves, 
 half a dozen carrots, as many onions, and three or four 
 stalks of celery, making with their hearts a bunch, put 
 them in your soup, and wash the remainder tied up in a 
 bunch, put it directly in your pot ; then put in a little leg 
 of veal, or other meat, with a small neck of mutton, all 
 your meat together weighing about six pounds; then 
 put the hearts of your celery into your pot, and let the 
 whole boil slowly, putting the pot before the fire, that 
 your broth may boil only on one side ; you may add 
 two or three lettuces tied together. Your meat being 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 97 
 
 done, see that your broth has flavour and is relishing; 
 soak some bread in it, and place on the top the hearts 
 of the celery, with some onions and bits of carrots. 
 Sprina-Sour.—Take a handful of chervil, three 
 heads of celery, three lettuces, two heads of leeks, a 
 
 dittle parsley, and chop them all very fine; put them 
 _Into a stew-pan with a piece of butter, and let them 
 ‘simmer on the fire for a few minutes, then add to them 
 
 two quarts of broth, and let it boil until it is reduced 
 to three pints, then take the yolks of four eggs, and 
 a quarter of a pint of cream, mix them together, and 
 
 put them to the soup just before they are sent up to table. 
 
 Morton Cutiet-Sour.—Take as many of the worst 
 cutlets of the neck, as you may require; trim them, 
 but not too finely, put them by, and with the trimmings 
 
 make the soup. Putin a stew-pan the mutton trim- 
 
 mings, some scrag ditto, and a knuckle of veal; moisten 
 this with a bunch of celery, leeks, parsley, one large 
 onion, with two cloves, the trimmings of the turnips cut 
 into dice, and one or two earrots. Let this broth boil 
 
 ‘gently three hours, season it with salt, and skim off the 
 fat. When it becomes of a good flavour, drain it over 
 ‘the chops, which you must put in a small stew-pan large 
 
 enough to contain the soup. Have some barley that 
 
 has boiled a long time, wash it very well, and put it 
 
 with the turnips and chops to boil one hour. Skim 
 again before you serve up; no bread is used to this 
 soup. Celery, cut into dice with the turnips, gives ad- 
 ditional flavour; add a little fine-chopped parsley just 
 as you serve up. 3 
 CuEsnutT-Sovr.— Take some large chesnuts and 
 peel them; put them into a pasty-pan with fire under 
 
 and over; put them in the oven; peel off the under 
 
 skin; then set them to boil in good broth. Put into 
 
 your stew-pan about half a pound of veal, a few slices 
 
 of ham, carrots, and onions; put them on a stove to 
 
 sweat, till they stick to the pan without burning ; 
 
 moisten with good broth. Have some carcasses of par- 
 
 tridges or pheasants ready pounded ; take your meat 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
98 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 ‘out of the stew-pan, and put in your pounded carcasses; 
 take care that your broth be well tasted; put in a little 
 cullis, and strain; afterwards put it in a small pot or 
 sauce-pan to keep hot. Pare off the crust of a French 
 roll, and put into your stew-pan; soak your crusts with 
 some good broth, let them simmer, taking care there be no 
 fat ; when done enough, put into your soup-dish; garnish 
 the rim with your chesnuts. Put on your potage two 
 large pigeons or partridges, with your cullis over them, 
 and serve up hot. | 
 
 Rice-Soupr.— Well wash and boil the rice in a stock 
 of veal and mutton, and rub it through a tammy ; put: 
 stock according to the quantity that is wanted ; put it 
 in a small soup-pot, give it a boil up, and put a liaison 
 or thickening matter of six eggs to about two quarts, 
 ‘keep stirring it up, otherwise the eggs will curdle. Leave — 
 one half of the rice that is boiled to put in the soup, 
 without being rubbed through a tammy; add salt, a 
 little mace, and white pepper. 
 
 Macaront-Sour.— Take half a pound of small pipe 
 macaroni, and boil it in three quarts of water, till it is 
 ‘tender; strain the water off, and cut the macaroni into 
 ‘pieces of about two inches long. Mix now three quarts 
 of strong broth and one of gravy together, into which 
 put the macaroni, and boil for ten minutes; put the 
 erust of a French roll baked into the tureen, and pour 
 the soup on it. Some add cream and grated Parmesan 
 ‘cheese to this. 
 
 A Curap Soupr.—A small piece of beef, twelve pints 
 of water, one carrot, one turnip, two onions, two celery 
 heads, boiled until reduced to one pint. 
 
 On Fisu-Sovurs.—The stock of fish-soups may either 
 ‘be made of fish or meat. If the family be composed of 
 Roman Catholies, or people who abstain rigidly from 
 fresh meat, meat will of course be’ excluded, but in 
 other families lean mutton, beef, or veal may be used for 
 fish stock. When the stock is made entirely of fish, 
 any trimmings of fish may be used. Thus you may 
 dispose of the head of the skate, cod, haddock, whiting, 
 
 
 

 
 : 
 : 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 99 
 
 eels, gudgeon, and also of the fins and trimmings of the 
 fish which is to be served at table. Care, however, 
 should be taken not to make fish stock till it is required 
 to be used, as it soon becomes sour. The fish of which 
 the stock should be made, should be boiled in a couple 
 of quarts of water, with two onions, a little lemon-peel, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs. The liquor should be 
 
 carefully skimmed and strained. Should you wish the 
 
 fish-soup brown, the fish of which the stock is to be com- 
 posed may be browned in the frying-pan before boiling. 
 A little ketchup will also tend to brown and darken the 
 colour of the soup. 
 
 Fisa-Brotu.—Get some carp, scale, wash, and gut 
 them ; slit them in two, and cut them up in bits. Put 
 them with some butter and onions, cut into slices, into 
 a stew-pan over a slow fire. When the liquor turns yel- 
 low, moisten with some pea-soup (the broth must not be 
 coloured for white soups), season the whole with salt, 
 cloves, sweet basil, and parsley ; strain it off, and keep 
 it warm to use when wanted. 
 
 OvstER-Sour.—Take about two quarts of good fish- 
 stock, beard a pint of oysters, put them in a stew-pan, 
 strain the liquor, and let them stew a few minutes in 
 their own liquor ; then take the hard parts of the oysters, 
 and beat them in a mortar, with the yolks of four hard 
 eggs; mix them with some of the soup, put them with the 
 other parts of the oysters and liquor into a sauce-pan 
 with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, stir them well to- 
 gether, and let it boil a quarter of an hour. Dish it 
 up, and send it to table hot. 
 
 Stock For FisH-Sovur.—-Simmer a pound of skate, 
 four or five flounders, and two eels, well cleaned but not 
 skinned, and all cut into pieces, with a seasoning of 
 mace, pepper, salt, and onion, a few cloves, a head of 
 celery, two parsley-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, in water sufficient to cover them, for an hour and 
 a half, in a stew-pan closely covered; strain it off for 
 use. Various fish-soups may be made from this as a 
 
 basis. 
 nH 2 
 
 
 
 
 
100 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 Erx-Sour.—Boil a pound of unskinned eels, the heads 
 being separated from the bodies, which must be cut imto 
 short lengths, in a quart of water, with a crust of bread; 
 two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, an 
 onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs, in a stew-pan closely 
 covered till they are quite broken; then strain off the 
 soup, and pour it, boiling hot, on some toasted bread 
 cut into dice. Ovi: butter, aa flour, are sometimes 
 added to this soup to improve it; but these, more espe- 
 cially if the soup be designed for invalids and the sick, 
 are unwholesome, and, for such, highly improper. The 
 best and most wholesome condiment for peer besides 
 salt, is parsley. 
 
 To MAKE POTAGE FOR ONE OR TWO PERSONS. — 
 Take four handfuls of pot-herbs, picked and seahen 
 and cut small, two or three onions cut small kewiod 
 three or fouit leeks, half an ounce of fresh butter or 
 bacon, four spoonfuls either of fine flour, pounded rice, 
 oatmeal, or peeled barley, a drachm of salt, and a little 
 pepper ; boil the whole in three quarts of water, which 
 must be reduced to a pint and a half, and kept for use. 
 You may make at the same time potage enough for 
 three or four days. 
 
 To Cuariry Brora or Gravy.—Put on the broth 
 in a clean stew-pan, break the white and shell of an 
 egg, beat them together, put them into the broth, stir 
 it with a whisk, when boiled for a few minutes, strain it 
 through a tammy. 
 
 To MAKE Soup Matgre.—Take six cucumbers pared 
 and sliced the long way, six lettuces, the outside leaves 
 taken off and sliced the long way, of onions and parsley 
 each a handful, and one pint of green-peas; put them 
 all into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter, and not 
 any water; put the onions at the bottom, let them stew 
 gently for two hours, or till the herbs are quite tender, 
 add a sprig of mint to them; when the herbs are almost 
 ready, boil half a pint of old peas, in three quarts of 
 water, quite tender, pulp them into the water they are 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 10L 
 
 boiled in, and put it to the herbs, with pepper and salt’ 
 to your taste. Heat it and serve it up. It may be 
 made over night. 
 
 Common Brota Maicre.—Boil three quarts of 
 
 dried peas with three quarts of water, a little salt, fresh 
 butter, pepper, nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, for four 
 hours gently, then take it from the fire, and half an 
 hour after run the stock clear through a silk sieve, whilst 
 this stock is boiling, prepare two bunches of carrots, the 
 same of turnips, one bunch of white onions, and six 
 heads of celery, slice and sweat them offin fresh butter, 
 over a moderate fire, stirring them until coloured 
 equally of a fine red; add two whitings, cut in pieces, 
 the white parts of a bunch of leeks sliced, ten quarts of 
 water, and the stock from the peas; boil these three 
 hours, and pass them afterwards through a silk sieve, or 
 tammy. Use this stock for the sauces and soups com- 
 posed of fish or roots, as also for any dishes that are. 
 maigre. 
 _ Scotcnu Bariey-Broru.—Take half a pound of 
 Scotch barley washed clean in cold water; put it into a 
 stew-pan with a leg of beef weighing about seven pounds, 
 two or three onions, and water sufficient to cover the 
 whole. Boil gently for about one hour and a half, 
 take off the fat, and put in a head or two of celery, and 
 a turnip, and a carrot cut into pieces; add a seasoning of 
 salt, and boil again one hour or more; serve it up with 
 pepper or other condiments. 
 
 CuickEN-Brotu.—Take an old fowl, cut it into 
 pieces, and remove all the fat, boil it for five or six hours 
 in two quarts of water; then pour off all the liquor, and 
 add another quart of boiling water to it; boil again for 
 another hour or more; mix both the liquors together, 
 and serve it up with such seasoning as may be desired. 
 _ If bread be desired it may be added after the boil- 
 - ings. 
 | Rue Bears, —Boil a lee or shin, or any lean part 
 of beef, if about three pounds (the bones being broken), 
 
102 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 in three quarts of water, for an hour ; then add a tur- 
 nip, a carrot, an onion, and such seasoning as you please; 
 boil for half an hour longer, and it may be served up.’ 
 The beef, after this process, will make a very good and 
 wholesome dish. ; 
 
 Bariey-Brotu.—Take half a pint of pearl barley, 
 let it boil half an hour in a little water, then add some 
 stock, cut one head of celery and one onion small into 
 it, and stew till done, pass it through a tammy, add 
 more stock if required, halfa pint of cream, a little whole 
 barley put in when sent to table. 
 
 Verat-Brotu.—Cut in slices half a pound of His 
 fillet of veal, boil in three pints of water with two or: 
 three lettuces and a handful of endive; add a little wild 
 endive; pass it through a gauze search and serve. 
 ~ Scorcu-Brorn. —Chop a leg of beef in pieces, and 
 boil it in three gallons of water, with a piece of carrot 
 and a crust of bread, till it is half boiled away. Now 
 strain it off, and put it in the pot again with half a: 
 pound of barley, four or five heads of celery, washed 
 clean and cut small, a large onion, a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, a little parsley chopped small, and a few mari- 
 golds. Boil the whole for an hour. Now take a cock 
 capon, or large fowl, clean picked and washed, and put 
 it in the pot; boil it till the broth is good, season it 
 with salt, and send it to table with the fowl in the 
 middle. This broth is very good without the fowl. 
 Take out the onion and sweet herbs before you send it 
 to table. 
 
 Some make this broth with @ sheep’s head instead of 
 a leg of beef, and it is very good; but you must chop 
 the head to pieces. 
 
 Pecrorat CuickEen-Broru.—Take a fine fowl, two 
 ounces of barley and as much rice, put them altogether 
 into a pot with ten pints of water, and two ounces of Nar- 
 bonne honey; skim it, let it simmer three hours till it is 
 reduced to tivo-thirds ; ; it is very good for sea 
 irritation of the breast, and for invalids. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS, 103 
 
 PorTasBLE Sour.—Boil one or two knuckles of veal, 
 one or two shins of beef, and three pounds of beef in as 
 much water only as will cover them. Take the marrow 
 out of the bones, put any sort of spice you like, and 
 three large onions. When the meat is in fragments 
 strain it off, and put it into a very cold place. When 
 cold take off the cake of fat (which will make crusts for 
 servants’ pies), put the soup into a double-bottomed tin 
 sauce-pan, and set it on a pretty quick fire, but do not 
 let it burn. It must boil fast and uncovered, and be 
 stirred constantly for eight hours. Put it into a pan, 
 and let it stand in a cold place a day, then pour it into a 
 round china soup-dish, and set the dish into a stew-pan 
 of boiling water on a stove, and let it boil, and be now 
 and then stirred, till the soup is thick and ropy, then it 
 is enough. Pour it into the little round part at the 
 bottom of cups or basins turned upside down to form 
 cakes, and when cold turn them out on flannel to dry. 
 Keep them in tin canisters. When they are to be used, 
 melt them in boiling water, and if you wish the flavour 
 of herbs, or any thing else, boil it first, strain off the 
 water, and melt the soup in it. 
 
 This is very convenient in the country or at sea, 
 where fresh meat is not always at hand, as by this 
 means a basin of soup may be had in five minutes. 
 
 A BrornH FoR THE SICK FoR BREAKFAST is made 
 of a piece of buttock of beef, a scrag end of mutton, 
 the bloody part of a neck of veal, and what other meat 
 you think proper, with two chickens; your chickens 
 being boiled, you pound the white flesh in a mortar 
 with crumbs of bread soaked in broth, and all being 
 well tasted, you strain it through a strainer to put on 
 your boiled crust with the broth that you have ready- 
 made. 
 
 A Curar Mutton Broru.—Boil three pounds of 
 the scrag end of a neck of mutton, cut into pieces, in 
 three quarts of water for an hour, then add one or two 
 turnips and such seasoning, with herbs, &c. as you may 
 
 
 
104 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 choose; boil for half an hour more, and it will be done; 
 serve up with parsley chopped fine. Some add to this 
 simple, and perhaps the best of mutton-broths, rice, Scotch 
 or pearl barley, or grits or oatmeal, mace, &c. If you do 
 not desire the broth to taste very strongly, they may 
 be boiled separately, and added to the broth when it is 
 ready. ; 
 Becuiice VeAL-Brora.—Boil a knuckle or a part 
 of a neck of veal, of three pounds’ weight, with an 
 ounce of rice in three quarts of water, till they are re- 
 duced to three pints; add, towards the end of the 
 boiling, a blade of mace, and such other seasoning a 
 you may desire. of 
 Breer TEA FoR THE Sicx.—Boil one pound of lean 
 beef, cut into small pieces (the part is not very material, 
 that from the neck is usually employed) in three pints of 
 water till itis reduced to about a quart. The first scum, 
 which arises during the boiling, must be taken off ; but 
 if it be skimmed continually during the boiling, a 
 considerable portion of its nutritive properties will be 
 removed.. When the boiling is complete, strain the 
 whole of the liquor off, and if there be time before it is 
 wanted, let it stand till it is cold, and take off all the fat; 
 or the fat must be removed while the liquor is hot. The 
 directions given in most of our cookery books to use 
 only the clear liquor is quite a mistake; the best and 
 most nutritious portions of it is the fine fibrine which 
 settles to the bottom. 
 Mutron-Brotu, for the sick, should be made in the 
 same way as directed for beef-tea above; it may be 
 either made by infusion or decoction, accordingly as it 
 may be wanted weakly or strongly impregnated with the 
 nutritive properties of the mutton. It is usual in ordi- 
 nary mutton-broth to flavour it with turnips; but for the 
 sick, the turnips had better be omitted ; a little chopped 
 parsley is admissible. Hone! 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 DRESSING FISH. 105 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING FISH. 
 
 Ir the fishmonger does not clean it, fish is seldom very 
 _ nicely done; but those in great towns wash the fish be- 
 _ yond what is necessary for cleaning, and by perpetual 
 watering diminish the flavour. When quite clean,.if to 
 _ be boiled, some salt and a little vinegar should be put 
 _ into the water to give firmness; but cod, whiting, and 
 _ haddock, are far better if a little salted, and kept a day; 
 _ and if it be not very hot weather, they will be good two 
 _ days. | 
 ge Those who know how to purchase fish may, by taking 
 _ more at a time than they want for one day, often get it 
 _ cheap; and such kinds as will pot or pickle, or keep by 
 | being sprinkled with salt and hung up, or by being fried 
 _ will serve for stewing the next day, may be bought with 
 advantage. . 
 Fresh-water fish has often a muddy smell and taste : 
 to take off which soak it in strong salt and water after 
 itis nicely cleaned; or, if a size to bear it, scald it in 
 _ the same liquid; then dry and dress it. 
 |» The fish must be put into the water while cold, and set 
 _ to boil very gently, or the outside will break before the 
 inner part is done. 
 _ Crimp fish should be put into boiling water; and 
 when it boils up, pour a little cold water in to check ex- 
 treme heat, and simmer it a few minutes. 
 » The fish-plate on which it is done may be drawn up 
 to see if it be ready: it will leave the bone when it is. 
 
 —It should then be immediately taken out of the water, 
 
 or it will be woolly. The fish-plate should be set cross- 
 ways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving; and a 
 clean cloth cover the fish to prevent it losing its 
 colour. | pei! 
 
106 DRESSING FISH, 
 
 Attention should be paid to garnishing fish: use 
 horse-radish, parsley, and lemon. 
 
 To Bor, Tursor.—-The turbot-kettle must be of 
 a@ proper size, and in the nicest order. Set the fish in 
 cold water sufficiently to cover it completely, throw a 
 handful of salt and a glass of vinegar into it, and let it 
 gradually boil : be very careful that there fall no blacks; 
 skim it well, and preserve the beauty of the colour. 
 
 Tn regard to the boiling, or otherwise dressing, of all 
 dried fish, they ought to be previously soaked in water 
 for a. period more or less long, dependent on their size 
 and saltness; it is true red-herring’s are generally broiled 
 without being soaked, but there can be no doubt even 
 these would be improved, both in flavour and quality, by 
 soaking in water: an hour or two may be sufficient for 
 dried whiting and other white fish of a similar size, if 
 not much salted; a much longer time is required for 
 larger fish, as cod. (Which see.) Sometimes, when expe- 
 dition is required, boiling water poured over the fish will 
 abstract the salt sooner, and otherwise fit it for dressing. — 
 
 SaLt Cop, or Line, should lie in water for at least 
 twelve hours; sometimes double that period will be ne- 
 cessary if the fish be very salt, the water being changed 
 two or three times, or even more; indeed, upon its 
 being well soaked, so that much of the salt which is in it 
 may be dissolved and washed out depends the goodness 
 of this dish. Some add to it, while in soak, a few 
 ounces of vinegar, it is said, to get out the salt. 
 
 The fish should be put into a good deal of cold water, 
 and the heat under the kettle be gradually raised till the 
 water approaches the boiling point, but does not“actu- 
 ally boil; in this state it should be kept till the fish is 
 done, which will be known by its readily separating into 
 flakes. It is said, by Count Rumford, that the great art 
 of boiling salt fish in the New England States of North 
 America consists in keeping it in water scalding hot for 
 several hours, but not actually boiling. By such means 
 the salt is, no doubt, most effectually abstracted, and 
 the fish thus becomes a most desirable dish. . 
 
 
 

 
 DRESSING FISH. 107 
 
 In frying of fish, always observe to dry it well in a clean 
 cloth. Let the stew-pan you fry fish in be very nice and 
 clean, and put in as much beef-dripping, or hog’s lard, 
 which is preferable to butter, as will almost cover it, and 
 be sure it boils before you put the fish in. Let it fry quick, 
 and be of a fine light brown, but not too dark a colour. 
 Have the fish-slice ready, and if there is occasion turn 
 
 ’ it; when it is done enough, take it up, and lay a coarse 
 
 cloth on a dish, on which lay the fish, to drain all the 
 grease from it. If you fry parsley, do it quickly, and 
 take great care to take it out of the pan as soon as it 1s 
 crisp, or it will lose its fine colour. Take great care, 
 also, that the dripping be very nice and clean. 
 
 Some like fish in batter: for this, beat an egg fine, 
 and dip the fish in, just as you are going to put it in 
 the pan. As good a batter as any is a little ale and 
 flour beaten up, just as you are ready for it, and dip the 
 fish before frying. 
 
 With all boiled fish you should put a good deal of 
 salt and horse-radish in the water, except mackarel, 
 with which put salt and mint, parsley and fennel, which 
 chop to put in the butter; some like scalded gooseberries 
 with them. Be sure to boil the fish well; but take great 
 care they do not break. 
 
 OBSERVATION RELATIVE TO ALL Sorts oF FiIsH 
 Sauces.—Fish sauces should always be thick enough to 
 adhere to the fish. When the sauce is too liquid it is 
 abominable ; of the two, the thick is preferable, as you 
 ean make it thinner at table, by adding some of the 
 eruet sauces. 
 
 To Cuoosr Ancnovirs.—They are preserved in 
 barrels, with bay salt: no other fish has the fine flavour. 
 of the anchovy. The best look red and mellow, and the 
 bones are moist and oily; the flesh should be high fla- 
 voured, the liquor reddish, and have a fine smell. 
 
 THE MOST APPROVED AND FASHIONABLE METHOD 
 OF DRESSING A TURBOT IN THE ENGLISH MANNER.—. 
 Choose a fish that is very white, which is a certain sign 
 
 
 
 
 
108 DRESSING FISH. 
 
 of its freshness, fleshy, firm, and, above all, observe that 
 its surface be covered with a round swelling grain, which 
 proves that it is fat and delicate; let it soak in winter 
 in cold water, with a little milk mingled with it, but in’ 
 summer ‘lay it on ice; two hours before serving, make 
 an incision of three incest in length, in the centre of the 
 back, a little distance from the head; lift the flesh up 
 from the back-bone, and with the point of a strong 
 trussing-knife cut three or four of the bones on each side 
 of the large one, and take out two or three of the joints, 
 thus preventing the flesh from breaking during the boil- 
 ing, by giving it opportunity and room to shrink : this 
 operation is necessary only in large turbots, for smaller 
 ones it will be sufficient to make a slit on each side of 
 the bone, tie up its mouth with packthread, rub the belly. 
 of the turbot with the juice of a lemon, and cover it with 
 the flesh of two lemons cut in slices and the pips taken 
 out, strew upon it three large handfuls of salt, lay the 
 fish upon the strainer in a kettle half filled with hot 
 water, and place it over a quick fire covered with a 
 napkin, and cover the kettle; when it boils skim and 
 remove it from the fire, ha cover up with ashes; re- 
 place the turbot upon it, being careful that it does but 
 simmer, it is essential that it does not boil ; an hour 
 and a half after, when serving, take up the turbot and 
 wash the surface of it with the water it was boiled in, 
 untie the head, and slide it upon a napkin laid upon the 
 false bottom of: the fish dish; place around the fish four 
 groups of potatoes turned of the shape of large olives, 
 boiled in water with salt, and between them place bun- 
 dles of parsley, as also upon the opening of the gills, 
 and wherever the skin may be cracked ; serve immedi- 
 ately, with two boats of melted butter only, to which 
 add a little salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and lemon- 
 juice ; when you have twenty people at dinner, melt at 
 least one pound of butter, and proportionately if more or 
 less : taste the water that it be sufficiently salt. 
 
 To press TURBOT WITH A ParsLEy SaucE.—See 
 
 
 
 | 
 : 
 : 
 

 
 
 
 DRESSING FISH. 109 
 
 that your fish-kettle is sufficiently large, then take a 
 middle-sized turbot, gut and wash it, put it to boil in 
 salt and water, half a pint of vinegar, some horse-radish, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs, being done, blanch some 
 parsley, squeeze it well and mince it, then put it in a 
 stew-pan with a minced anchovy, half a lemon cut in dice, 
 season it with salt, pepper, a piece of butter, a dust of 
 flour, and a drop of water. Being ready to serve up, 
 take out your fish, drain it, thicken your sauce, dish it 
 up with your sauce over it, and serve it up hot for first 
 course or remove. | 
 
 To pom MAckareu.—Rub them with vinegar when 
 the water boils, put them in with a little salt, and boil 
 them gently a quarter of an hour. Serve them with 
 fennel and parsley boiled, chopped, and put into melted 
 butter and gooseberry-sauce in tureens. 
 
 Mackarel are very good stuffed with bread-crumbs, 
 chopped parsley, grated lemon-peel, pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg, mixed with the yolk of an egg. Serve with 
 anchovy-sauce and fennel-sauce. 
 
 They are also good split open, the heads cut off, pep- 
 pered, hung up for four or five hours, and then broiled. 
 Make the sauce of fennel and parsley, scalded, chopped 
 fine, and mixed with melted butter. 
 
 To sor Herrines.—Scale, gut, and wash them, dry 
 them thoroughly in a cloth, and rub them over with a 
 little salt and vinegar; skewer their tails in their 
 mouths and lay them on the fish-plate ; when the water 
 boils, put them in, and about ten or twelve minutes will 
 do them; then take them up, let them drain properly, 
 and turn their heads into the middle of the dish. Serve 
 them with melted butter and parsley; garnish with 
 lemon and horse-radish. 
 
 To sow Saumon.—Clean the fish and scrape it 
 carefully ; boil it gently, with salt and horse-radish in 
 the water; if put into cold water, a piece not very thick 
 will take half an hour after it boils. Serve it with 
 shrimp, lobster, or anchovy-sauce, in one tureen, and 
 
110 DRESSING FISH. 
 
 fennel and butter in another. If you have essence of 
 anchovy, send plain melted butter to table with it. 
 
 To press Sart Cop.—Soak and clean the piece you 
 mean to dress, then lay it all night in water, with a glass 
 of vinegar. Boil it enough, then break it into flakes 
 on the dish; pour over it parsnips boiled, beaten ina 
 mortar, and then boiled up with cream and a large piece 
 of butter rubbed with a bit of flour. It may be served 
 as above with egg-sauce instead of the parsnip, and the 
 root sent up whole; or the fish may be boiled and sent up 
 without flaking, and sauces as above. 
 
 Cop Sounps Borep.—Soak them in warm water 
 half an hour, then scrape and clean; and if to be 
 dressed white, boil them in milk and water; when 
 tender, serve them in a napkin, with egg-sauce. The 
 salt must not be much soaked out, unless for fricassee. 
 
 To Brom Cop Sounps.—Sceald in hot water, rub 
 well with salt, pull off the dirty skin, and put them 
 to simmer till tender ; take them out, flour and broil. 
 While this is being done, season a little brown gravy 
 with pepper, salt, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a little 
 mustard: give it a boil with a bit of flour and butter, 
 and pour it over the sounds. 
 
 Cop Sounps Racour.—Prepare as above; then stew 
 them in white gravy seasoned, cream, butter, and a 
 httle bit of flour added before you serve, gently boiling 
 up. A bit of lemon-peel, nutmeg, and the least pounded 
 mace, should give the flavour. . 
 
 Fish 1n THE EneiisH Fasuton.—In English 
 cookery there is no variety in the preparation of fish 
 for the table. Three or four modes only of dressing 
 this delicacy are known among us, frying, boiling, 
 stewing, grilling, &c., and the numerous preparations of 
 fish by which the palate is delighted and the health 
 maintained in other countries, are not to be seen among 
 the refinements of English dinners, when these latter 
 are confined to dishes of home manufacture. By some 
 strange prejudice, fish is never eaten among us except at 
 
 
 
 
 
TT TT 
 
 
 
 DRESSING FISH. 111 
 
 the very beginning of dinner, following the soup. Its ap- 
 pearance at a second course would be considered an 
 anomaly in England; and yet no set of persons in the 
 world will, very truly says the “‘ Magazine of Domestic 
 Economy,’’ on the Continent, relish fish at a second 
 course better than those Englishmen who have left their 
 
 prejudices behind them in their native country. 
 
 In fish England has always enjoyed an admitted pre- 
 
 eminence over the nations of the Continent. The fish 
 
 brought to her markets is fresher, finer, and in greater 
 variety, yet the uniformity of her cookery in this respect 
 is to foreigners the alternate theme of wonder and 
 
 ridicule. Billingsgate, adjoining the Custom House, is 
 
 ‘the mart whence this vast metropolis is supplied. The 
 
 fishmongers exhibit their stores on trays of marble 
 or of lead. Every tide brings up fleets, deep-welled, 
 
 from the Berwick smack and Dutch galliot and Norway 
 
 fishing-boats to the well-appointed steamer. There are 
 smacks laden with salmon packed in ice ; Dutch schuyts 
 with their wells filled with luxurious turbots, or delicious 
 
 eels ; boats and barges almost sinking with their plen- 
 
 tiful cargoes of cod, haddock, skate, soles, herrings, or 
 mackarel, according to the season; oysters, crabs, lob- 
 sters, crawfish, &c. &c. Hither the Brighton mackarel 
 and soles, at the commencement of the season, are for- 
 
 warded by land-carriage, and occasionally those wel- 
 
 come guests at the tables of the great and opulent, the 
 John Dory and the mullet, both gray and scarlet. 
 
 The traffic is under proper regulations. Oysters, 
 
 muscles, cockles, sprats, and other fish that are sold 
 
 by measure, are subject to the inspection of the city- 
 
 meters. Around Billingsgate and in its vicinity are nu- 
 
 -merous dealers in salt and dried fish; such as salmon, 
 
 cod, ling, and herrings. In the spring and summer 
 seasons the supply from Neweastle of that great delicacy, 
 pickled salmon, is very considerable, and great quanti- 
 ties daily arrive fresh from Ireland and Scotland by 
 steam. The money expended annually in the purchase 
 
112 DRESSING FISH: 
 
 of fish landed at this place, is of enormous amount : it 
 has been said that the Dutch used to take yearly from 
 our current coin fifty thousand guineas for turbot 
 only! The principal market-day at Billingsgate is 
 Monday. 
 
 To Keer Fisu Fresu.— Dr. M‘Culloch asserts that a 
 small proportion of sugar will keep fish perfectly fresh for 
 several days; but the fish must be fresh when it is ap- 
 plied, as it will not recover from taint. Sugar also 
 cures salmon and white fish, which keeps any length of 
 time in a dried state, provided it is not allowed to get 
 damp. A little salt may be added to the sugar to please 
 the taste. . 
 
 The directions are :— To lay the fish upon its side and 
 rub it with a little sugar, particularly about the stomach 
 and throat; two or three tea-spoonfuls is enough for a 
 
 good-sized salmon. If it be kept fresh there will be no 
 
 occasion to open it. 
 
 How to Cuoossr Sarr Fisu.—The fishes that are 
 usually salted dry are ling, cod, hake, and whiting. 
 
 Ling and cod ought to appear of a light colour, and 
 perfectly dry, but should not feel hard to the touch; 
 they should also be free from dark spots or mildew. 
 Wherever these dark spots appear they should be cut 
 out before dressing the fish; this applies to all other salt 
 fish. These fish should also be thick and stout, particu- 
 larly behind the head, and the thickness should continue 
 to the tail. 
 
 The best ling are taken off the coasts of Scilly, 
 Shetland, Penzance, and at St. Ives in Cornwall. 
 
 Tue Cop-Fisu taken on the coast of Newfoundland 
 are neither so large nor so good as those on the Cornish 
 coast, nor is the flesh so firm and flaky, nor of so white 
 a colour. 
 
 Dried salmon should look thick about the shoulders, 
 and the body should be deep throughout. It should 
 look also very red when cut, otherwise it is not a good 
 fish. It is a too frequent practice to cure salmon when 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 TO CHOOSE SHELL-FISH. 118 
 
 out of season, and to give a red tint to it by means 
 of saltpetre and other ingredients; but this differs 
 widely from the real colour of the fish. A lean, long- 
 bodied, lanky salmon should always be rejected. 
 
 Rep Herrines should look bright, stiff, and shine 
 like burnished metal; if limp, and of a dull colour, and 
 particularly if soft about the belly part, they are not 
 well cured, and consequently will not eat crisp or well- 
 flavoured. 
 
 PincHarps are seldom met with ill-cured; but from 
 their strong and rancid taste, few persons, excepting the 
 poorer classes, can be prevailed upon to eat them a se- 
 cond time. 
 
 Ancuoviss should be firm and hard over the belly, 
 and the colour should be of a bright red under the skin. 
 When of a brown colour and soft, they are not good. 
 The smallest are considered the best. In London, or 
 other great cities far from the sea, the best are sold in 
 bottles, or in hermetically-sealed tin cases, like the Sar- 
 dinias. 
 
 Fishes in pickle should look clean and free from spots, 
 bruises, or indentations, and should feel firm and hard to 
 the touch. 
 
 All kinds of salt-fish, whether dried or in pickle, re- 
 
 quire some preparation previous to dressing. 
 
 HOW TO CHOOSE SHELL-FISH. 
 
 Crass AND Logsters, in the vicinity of fishing 
 stations, are more frequently purchased alive, by which 
 the freshness is insured. The purchaser should not buy 
 such as may have died in the well-boats or cobbles in 
 which they are kept. 
 
 When bought alive, they must be chosen among the 
 very active ones, for if dull and languid, they will not 
 taste well when cooked. 
 
 The best criterion of the goodness of a crab, whether 
 alive or dead, is the redness and absence of furze upon 
 the shell, a clean appearance, and being free from spots 
 
 I 
 
114 - TO CLEAN FISH. 
 
 or bruises; and sweet smelling, stiff, and ready wher 
 pulled out to return into their curve. A dirty, yellowish 
 back, and spots and bruises upon the claws and beneath 
 them, is a sign of a watery and unhealthy condition. 
 When good, there is a spring and elasticity about the 
 elaws, but they hang loose when the fish is stale, or has 
 died previous to being boiled. 
 
 The male is larger than the female, and may be known 
 by the claws being larger, and the tail being mueh nar- 
 rower. The male is considered the best generally, 
 though some give the preference to the female on ac- 
 count of the cream, which certainly affords the best 
 crab-sauce, but in other respects it is not equal to the 
 male crab. 
 
 Crabs should always be chosen by weight. A weighty 
 
 crab is sure to be a good one. 
 ~ Prawns AND Surimps should also be elastic, the 
 
 skin well filled out, and the flesh moist; if dry and 
 
 shrunk, they are stale; when soft, thin, and watery, 
 they are unhealthy, and not in good condition. | 
 All these fish are in best order and condition when 
 
 the hard roe first appears, and the coral remains in the- 
 
 head, but a great deal depends upon the careful boiling 
 of prawns and shrimps. 
 
 Muscues AnD Cockues should be full in the shell; 
 but muscles, if taken in a muddy bottom, acquire a taint 
 that is not easily eradicated ; but cockles so affected, if 
 kept in clear salt and water for three or four days, will 
 soon become pure. Neither muscles nor eockles are, as 
 we have said of oysters, fit to be eaten when the shell 
 becomes open ; the fish is then sickly, in bad condition, 
 dying, or perhaps dead. When several shell-fish in a 
 tub are found open, it may be concluded that the re- 
 maining portion are in a very unhealthy condition. 
 
 HOW TO CLEAN FISH. 
 
 THE great thing to be attended to in the preparation 
 of fish, is to have every particle that is foul or offensive 
 
 
 
 
 
 ee te ee 
 

 
 
 
 TO CLEAN FISH. 115 
 
 cleansed away. This must, however, be accomplished 
 in such a manner, that the fish may still retain its ori- 
 ginal firm and stiff appearance, which is frequently 
 destroyed by the rough handling it gets while under- 
 going the process of cleaning. It too frequently hap- 
 pens, owing to the ignorance of cockney dealers, that 
 the firmness and fine flavour of the fish is washed away. 
 If not wholly destroyed, it is, in most cases, greatly 
 impaired. We never see oue of these smirk, smiling 
 tradesmen with a watering-pot in hand, that we do not 
 wish to give the fellow the benefit of a shower-bath by 
 means of his own watering-pot. 
 
 In cleaning fish, a pump of clear spring water is a 
 great advantage, as the force of the water pumped over 
 the fish will wash off all that is required, without sub- 
 jecting it to that scrubbing or handling it would other- 
 wise require. In London a small hand-engine or hose 
 might be used for the purpose. As a general rule, it 
 may be remarked, that all fish should be laid flat on its 
 side, on either a board or a flat stone. It should be 
 held by the head and shoulders with the left-hand, and 
 all the seales and slime should be scraped off with the 
 right. This done, the operation should be repeated on 
 the reverse side. The fins should then be cut off, and the 
 hand-engine or pump used upon the fish to remove any 
 loose scales or slime that may still adhere to it. The 
 fish should then be opened, the intestines carefully ex- 
 tracted, well scraping the blood out from the back-bone, 
 then wash the fish by a pump or in a pan of clean water, 
 handling it as little as possible. Lastly, take out your 
 fish and hang it up to drain till required for use. Never 
 leave a fish in the water one moment after it is washed. 
 _ If allowed to soak, the fine flavour of the fish is very 
 materially lessened. 
 
 Cod-fish requires great care in cleaning, particularly 
 in cleansing the back-bone from blood, which spoils 
 the appearance of the sound, and sometimes renders it 
 too unsightly to be eaten. To prevent these conse- 
 quences, the fish should be cut open for some dis- 
 
 I 2 
 
116 TO CLEAN FISH. 
 
 tance below the vent, the sound upon one side care- 
 fully cut off with a sharp knife, as close as possible to 
 the back-bone, still leaving it attached to the opposite 
 side, and then the blood or the intestines of the back- 
 bone may be scraped out with the point of a knife, or 
 scrubbed out with a small brush; by this means not 
 only will the blood be removed, but the sound will wear 
 a much more presentable appearance, and can be more 
 easily carved, and without injuring the other. parts of 
 the tish. 
 
 Fishes that are to be dressed in their scales, should 
 be dipped in water, and rubbed with a coarse towel to 
 remove the slime. But great care should be taken to 
 rub only from the head downwards, for if rubbed against 
 the grain or contrarywise, some of the scales would be 
 displaced, which would, in a great measure, frustrate 
 the effect intended to be produced by dressing the fish 
 with this coating upon them. 
 
 Prtcuarps should be dressed without wiping at all; 
 whilst sprats, which are better when scaled, may be de- 
 prived of this outward covering with a coarse cloth, 
 without bruising or injuring the fish. 
 
 MackareEu intended for frying should be split down 
 the back to the tail, as indeed should all fish meant to 
 be cured, whether in pickle or dried; but whitings, 
 perch, small trout, and all other small fish, should be 
 opened at the belly. In the preparation of trout, the 
 back-bone must be scraped very clean, otherwise the 
 blood collected there will have a black and muddy ap- 
 pearance, extremely disagreeable to the eye. 
 
 Pace may be considerably improved by being beaten 
 with a flat piece of wood or a rolling-pin, which has the 
 effect of making the fish eat more firmly. It also re- 
 moves, in a great measure, the flabby and weteny ap- 
 pearance these fish possess. 
 
 Rep. Muuuets are usually dressed without, either 
 being scaled or gutted; but if fresh, it improves them 
 to extract the intestines carefully, throwing away the 
 garbage, and replacing the liver, but this can only be 
 
 
 
 
 
 ee 
 

 
 TO CLEAN SALT-FISH, Lig 
 
 done when very fresh, and the liver firm. This process 
 should never be attempted after the fish has been more 
 than six hours out of the water. 
 
 Skates, THorNBACKS, and all fishes of this kind 
 should be skinned, which will be greatly facilitated by 
 previously scalding the fish in hot water. 
 
 HOW TO CLEAN SALT-FISH. 
 
 SALT-Fisw requires great attention in being pro- 
 perly prepared for dressing, and in being’ properly 
 soaked in water. It is from neglect in this regard that 
 salt-fish is not so highly esteemed as an article of food 
 as it deserves to be. 4 
 
 How often do we see a piece of cod or ling as hard as 
 a stone, and as salt as the very brine, from having been 
 carelessly thrown half an hour previous to boiling into 
 water, perhaps hardly sufficient to cover it, from whence 
 it goes into the pot. It is then vigorously boiled until 
 the cook thinks it sufficiently done to send to table. 
 Cooked in this barbarous fashion, the best salt-fish would 
 not be worth the eating. To prepare a ling for table, it 
 should soak, fully immersed, at least twelve hours in 
 water, and then be taken out and well scrubbed with a 
 hard brush, or rubbed with a coarse cloth. It should 
 next be placed either on a flat stone or board to drain 
 for six or eight hours. An experienced cock would then 
 place it in luke-warm water, and let it remain soaking 
 for from ten to twelve hours longer, when it will have 
 become pliant and tender, and also swell considerably. 
 Warm water and milk will considerably improve both 
 the flavour and appearance of the fish; a little vinegar 
 - may also be added as an additional means of extracting 
 the salt. The fish requires, however, two soakings, the 
 first water being a kind of pickle, which becomes in 
 time as salt as the brine from which the fish was 
 taken. 
 
 Drriep Cop requires not more than one-half the 
 soaking each time as salt ling, unless, indeed, the fish 
 
118 ~ TO CURE FISH, ~ 
 
 be a very large one, in which case it will require to be 
 soaked nearly as long as a ling. When the fish is 
 placed in water over-night, to be ready early in the 
 morning, throw one or two wine-glassfuls of vinegar 
 into the water, take out the fish the first thing in the 
 morning, and hang it up by its tail to drain. 
 
 HOW TO CURE FISH. 
 
 THE best way of gently salting or of powdering a fish 
 so as to keep it a few days, is to take out the eyes, and 
 to fill up the apertures with dry salt. The cook or fish- 
 monger should, at the same time, rub a small quantity 
 of salt over the other parts of the fish, more particularly 
 about the inside, the intestines, and the region of the 
 back-bone. In very hot weather, the best course would 
 be to take out the back-bone altogether, as that part 
 may begin to decompose before the salt reaches it, and 
 thus taint the whole fish. If you do not wish your fish 
 too salt, instead of employing so great a quantity of 
 that article, a little pepper may be used advantageously. 
 This condiment. imparts to fish intended for either frying 
 or boiling, a very agreeable flavour, which may be still 
 further improved by the addition of a little allspice or 
 ground mace. . 
 
 SatmMon.—The best way of preserving salmon, is by 
 parboiling it soon after it is caught. Its curdy flakes 
 thus retain their consistency and firmness, should you 
 wish to keep the fish several days without serving it up 
 at table. ‘The usual method, which is by no means a 
 bad one, of preserving fresh salmon, is to wash the in- 
 side with vinegar daily, and then to plentifully powder 
 the same parts with pepper. This is a much better 
 preservative than salt, as by the exhibition of salt in any 
 pee both the colour and flavour are extracted from 
 the fish. : 
 
 Court-BovuILuton, OR Liquor FOR BOILING FIsH, 
 —Take three carrots, four onions, six shalots, and two 
 roots of: parsley, which wash and pick, mince them, put 
 
 
 
 
 
 : 
 
 ee 
 

 
 BOILING FISH. 119 
 
 a small lump of butter into a stew-pan with the above 
 roots, and fry them till they get brown; moisten next 
 with two bottles of red wine, a bottle of water, a handful 
 of salt, some whole peppercorns, and a bunch of parsley, 
 and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, 
 sweet basil, cloves, &c. Let the whole stew for an hour, 
 and then strain it through a sieve, to use as may be 
 wanted, if you have no wine put in some vinegar. The 
 court-bouillon is better after having served several times 
 than on the first day—it is excellent for stewing craw- 
 fish. 
 
 This is a dish for a Roman Catholic family during 
 Lent; it is always good, only add a glass of wine fo it 
 every time you use it. Use it for marinade, &c. 
 
 Court-Bovituon, on Liquor For BOILING FisH 
 (Another way).—Put into a stew-pan a bit of butter, 
 sliced onions and carrots, two bruised bay-leaves, three 
 cloves, two cloves of garlic, thyme, sweet basil, and a 
 little ginger. Do these ingredients over a rather quick 
 fire, to give them a colour; let them stick a little to the 
 bottom of the pan, moisten with two bottles of wine ; if 
 the court-bouillon is gras, put in some good stock, boil 
 and use it. - 
 
 ON BOILING FISH. 
 
 WHEN you wish to boil fish of any considerable size 
 or thickness, it should be put into cold water; as soon as 
 it begins to boil strongly, check the boiling by throwing 
 in a small quantity of cold water. This operation which 
 must be continued from time to time, so that the water 
 may boil at a gentle rate till the fish is done throughout. 
 If the water were allowed to boil away fiercely, the skin 
 of the fish would be split into fragments, whilst the flesh 
 near the back-bone would be quite raw. Care should 
 also be taken to keep the kettle covered, lest soot or 
 other dirt should fall into it, but the cover should ne- 
 vertheless be occasionally removed, for the purpose of. 
 
120 BOILING FISH. 
 
 skimming off any scum that may arise upon the sur- 
 face. Ere aie 
 
 ‘When the fish is sufficiently done, lift up the fish- 
 plate gently, allow the water to drain off, then place it 
 upon a fish-drainer in a dish, put over the drainer a 
 clean napkin, taking care no water accompanies the 
 fish. Your fish should not be dished up till the moment 
 before it is to be sent to table, for if placed under a 
 cover, the damp and moisture arising from the steam, 
 will frustrate the good effect of its being placed on a 
 dry dish, will also sodden the fish, and deprive it of its 
 firmness and crispness. If possible, therefore, it should 
 be so contrived that when dished up, the fish can be 
 immediately placed upon the table; but if circumstances 
 or accident prevent this, the fish may be kept warm a 
 considerable time by being placed on the drainer on 
 which it was boiled and placed across the top of the 
 kettle, and covered over with a clean dry cloth. Salt, 
 vinegar, and horse-radish, thrown into the water, im- 
 prove both the appearance and the flavour of the fish, 
 and often prevent the skin breaking. : 
 
 Ling and cod should never be dressed whole, for 
 owing to the thinness of the tail part, that would be 
 boiled to a complete rag before the upper parts were 
 half boiled, the common practice is, therefore, to dress 
 these fish in separate portions. 
 
 As to boiling, others recommend that the fish should 
 be just covered with cold soft water, containing a hand- 
 ful of bay salt, and half a pint of vinegar, the heat 
 should be gradual, so that by the time the water has 
 reached the boiling point, the fish may be done. If the 
 liquid boils up, and the fish is done hastily, it will lose 
 the best part of its flavour. : 
 
 But to us the most successful, though in England 
 perhaps the most expensive, mode of boiling fish, is that 
 adopted by the French, who increase its flavour by the 
 addition of several palatable ingredients. The liquor 
 in which the first is dressed is made in the following 
 
 
 

 
 BOILING FISH. 12} 
 
 manner: clean and chop up two good sized carrots, 
 three onions, half a-dozen shalots, a clove of garlic, 
 and a bunch of parsley; put the whole into a stew-pan 
 with a bit of fresh butter, and fry it a very light brown, 
 then pour upon it gradually a quart of soft water, and 
 two bottles of Bordeaux wine, ora cheap Burgundy, add 
 a bunch of herbs, of parsley, green onions, thyme, two 
 bay-leaves, and some sweet basil, season with a handful 
 of salt, some whole peppercorns, a little allspice, and 
 two or three cloves. Let the contents of the stew-pan 
 simmer very gently for an hour and a half, then strain 
 it through a sieve, and put it by for use, and it will keep 
 for some time. 
 
 N.B. The only fish that should be boiled is the tur- 
 bot, brill, skate, cod, salmon, and haddock when large 
 and firm. The above liquor is excellent for stewing 
 carp, pike, and other fresh-water fish. 
 
 Groves’s method of boiling fish is as follows: put your 
 fish into a kettle of water, warm, but not boiling, with 
 several handfuls of salt, let it boil very slowly, and take 
 it off the moment it boils. 
 
 To sou SAut-FIisH.— These fish when well washed 
 and watered as directed at p. 117, should be boiled 
 slowly in water, with a glass or two of vinegar, and 
 some shred horse-radish, but without salt. When dressed, 
 serve up your salt-fish strewed either with horse-radish 
 or egg-sauce. Garnish it with boiled parsnips. 
 
 BrecuaMet Tursots.—Take some parsley and chib- 
 bol and mince them very small, put in a sauce-pan a 
 good lump of butter with your parsley and chibbol, and 
 some minced shalots, season with salt and pepper, some 
 nutmeg, and a dust of flour. Take a turbot boiled in 
 court bouillon, take it off by pieces, and put it into 
 your stew-pan; put in a little cream, milk, or a little 
 water, put it over the fire, and stir it now and then that 
 your sauce may thicken, dish it up, and serve it up hot 
 for a first course. 
 
 You may dress dabs or salmons the same way, they 
 
Loe BOILING FISH; 
 
 may also be put in the oven, strewing them with crumbs 
 of bread, and serving them up with lemon-juice. 7 
 
 Tursot (Another way of dressing, in the English 
 fashion).—See that the kettle is sufficiently large, then 
 pour into it a sufficiency of water to cover the fish, put 
 into it a handful of salt, half a pint of vinegar, some 
 shred horse-radish, and a small bundle of sweet herbs, 
 boil these for some time, that the water may imbibe the 
 strength of these ingredients; then take off the water, 
 and allow it to become quite cool. Take your turbot, 
 score it just through the skin on the white side, which 
 more effectually prevents its cracking upon the other 
 side, place your fish in the kettle, the dark side down- 
 wards, and just as it comes to a boil, check the boiling 
 in the manner before directed, take care also that you 
 properly scum it from time to time, and prevent soot, 
 blacks, &c., from getting into the kettle. A moderate- 
 sized turbot requires about twenty minutes boiling, 
 when done, let it be well drained, and placed upon a 
 napkin over a fish-drainer. The spawn of a hen lob- 
 ster spread over the top of a turbot, gives a pleasing 
 appearance and complexion; but if this cannot be pro- 
 cured, scrape a little horse-radish over it, and serve it up 
 with lobster-sauce. In the summer months a sliced 
 cucumber may be eaten with either turbot or salmon. 
 A cold turbot or sole is, in France, considered excellent 
 with a cucumber and a little oil, vinegar, mustard, and 
 pepper. 
 
 How To press SALMON witH CrAW-FIsH CULLIs. 
 —Scale and wash your salmon well, lard it with half 
 bacon and half ham, spread a napkin upon the dresser, 
 and put upon it some slices of bacon, the length of your 
 salmon, and then your salmon, and put a good bit of 
 butter into the body, cover your salmon with slices of 
 bacon, and wrap it up in the napkin. Take a fish-pan, 
 put some onions cut into slices into it, then put in your 
 salmon, season it with salt, pepper, sweet basil, thyme, 
 bay-leaves, and cloves; put six bottles of white wine 
 into it, moisten it with boiling water, and put it to stew 
 
 
 

 
 BOILING FISH, 123 
 
 gently. When itis done, take it out, drain it, and un- 
 
 _ fold it, take off the slices of bacon, dish up your salmon, 
 
 put a cullis of craw-fish over it with the tails. You may 
 garnish it with large craw-fish, taking off the shells of 
 the tails, and let them be relishing; stick your salmon 
 with skewers, serve it up hot for a great entry. 
 
 SaLtmon as served in the English manner at the 
 table of Geo. IV.—Choose a fresh, well-made salmon, 
 and farce it with a whiting farce, put it into boiling 
 water with salt sufficient to give a flavour to the fish; 
 let it boil upon a quick fire, and then let it boil very 
 slowly for two hours if the fish be very large; when 
 serving, dish it up upon a napkin, lay parsley round it, 
 and serve in boats the Dutch sauce aw supréme, with 
 capers; the sauces of mushrooms, lobster, craw-fish, oys- 
 ters, prawns, muscles, anchovy-butter, butter of lobsters, 
 or butter of the essence of truffles, &c., may be served 
 with this fish. | 
 
 PIKE as served in the English manner at the table 
 of Geo. IV.—Farce the fish with a quenelle of pike, 
 add a spoonful of parsley, chopped and blanched, boil it 
 three quarters of an hour, dish and mask it with a 
 Dutch sauce, in which mingle the meat of a lobster cut 
 into dice; garnish with smelts turned round. 
 
 Mackareu as served at his late Britannic Majes- 
 ty’s residence at Windsor.—Boil them in salt and 
 water, and mask them with a ragout of carp roes and 
 oysters, and garnish them with smelts in rings, boiled in 
 salt and water. 
 
 MackareEt (another mode of serving as practised in 
 the kitchen of Geo. IV., are plain boiled in water, 
 with a little salt for thirty-five minutes, drain, and dish 
 them on anapkin neatly folded, garnished with potatoes 
 formed of a large olive-shape and boiled in salt and 
 water, and also bundles of parsley-leaves; serve lobster- 
 sauce with them, in which mingle a little glaze, butter, 
 pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and juice of lemons; serve 
 this in two boats. 
 
 To Bow Satmon,—Salmon, if large, should be 
 
124 BOILING FISH. 
 
 dressed in slices like a cod; if small, on the contrary, it 
 may be dressed whole, fixing the tail in the mouth b 
 
 means of a skewer, and boil it in a turbot-kettle. The 
 fish is sent to table resting on its belly side, the back 
 being uppermost. The liver and spawn, as in the cod, 
 takes a longer time than the other parts to boil it 
 thoroughly; and if eaten underdone, it is extremely un- 
 wholesome. Salmon, when not crimped, should be put 
 into cold water and boiled gradually, but if dressed in 
 thin slices, it should be plunged into hot water at once. 
 After allowing it to remain a minute or two in the fish- 
 kettle, raise it out of the hot water for a couple of 
 minutes, let this process be repeated three or four times, 
 and it will cause the curd to set, and the fish to eat 
 more crisp. When you have followed these directions, 
 allow the fish to boil at a moderate pace until it is 
 thoroughly done, for nothing is more indigestible than 
 underdone salmon. | a 
 
 To Bor. FrEesH SALMON, OR TO MAKE SALMON 
 Curtets. — Having split your salmon, and taken 
 out the bone cleanly without disturbing the flake, cut 
 your fillets three or four inches in breadth. Rub them 
 dry with a napkin, but do not beat them with a roller. 
 Your fire should be clear as for a beefsteak, and your 
 gridiron already on it, the bars chalked to prevent the 
 fish from sticking. Then place your salmon-steaks on, 
 and turn them as you would a beefsteak, until they be 
 perfectly done. Serve them hot—* piping hot,” as the 
 street-hawkers say—for on this depends the exquisite 
 flavour and high relish of the fish. 
 
 In France they dress salmon-cutlets differently. They 
 steep the cutlets in oil, shred fine herbs, parsley, green 
 onion, salt, and pepper over them; baste them while on 
 the gridiron with oil, take off the skin before serving, 
 and present the fish with dressed cucumber or caper- 
 sauce. | 
 
 Tue DoneGcat PickLE For Satmon, as used by Dr. 
 Sheil, proprietor of the Fisheries.—Mix together equal 
 portions of wine and water, to this add as much vinegar 
 
 
 
BOILING FISH. 125 
 
 as there is wine and water, and boil in this mixture a 
 _ good handful of sliced horse-radish, together with salt, 
 pepper, allspice, mace, cloves, and a little powdered gin- — 
 _ ger. When this liquor cools, pour it over the cold boiled 
 
 salmon. 
 
 
 
 To Bom a Cop’s Heap anp SHOULDERS.—Before 
 _ placing the head and shoulders in the kettle, you should 
 _ first bind some tape round the head, which prevents the 
 cheeks and jowl from breaking away, as they generally 
 do if not bound; next put the fish into a kettle of cold 
 water, with a handful of salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
 _acouple of wine-glasses of vinegar, and a little shred 
 | horse-radish; when about to come to a boil, check it as 
 | before directed, and keep it slowly simmering until it is 
 _ done. A moderate-sized piece requires about half an 
 _ hour. You may easily discover when the fish is done, 
 _ by inserting a fish-slice by the back-bone. If the flesh 
 _ will easily come from the bone, it is ready for the table. 
 Crimped cod will not take so long a time as when boiled 
 _ in a solid piece. If you dress either the spawn or liver, 
 | it must not be dressed in the body of the fish, but be- 
 side it in the kettle, otherwise it would not be sufficiently 
 done. If large, the spawn will take longer to boil than 
 | the fish. Garnish your fish with scraped horse-radish, 
 placing the liver and roe, if any, at the side. If the 
 cod has a soft roe, it should be fried, and the boiled fish 
 garnished with it; but as a general rule, boiled and 
 fried fish should never appear together in the same dish, 
 unless the fried fish be exceedingly small, as whiting, 
 and used as a garnish to the large boiled fish. 
 
 Oyster sauce is the general accompaniment to a boiled _ 
 cod’s head and shoulders, but cockle, shrimp, crab, lob- 
 ster, or anchovies are frequently used, and it is almost 
 always served abroad with Dutch sauce; indeed, there 
 is no fish-sauce that may not be eaten with cod-fish. 
 
 _ Codlings may be boiled whole; previously to dressing 
 them, however, the eyes should be taken out, and the 
 apertures filled with salt, as they eat much more agree- 
 
126 BOILING FISH. 
 
 ably after having been gently salted for a couple of 
 days before they are boiled. 
 
 _. To Bow Line.—This fish may be boiled in precisely 
 the same way as a cod; yet as the skin of the ling is 
 more firm than that of the cod, it is not necessary to 
 bind the cheeks directed in the receipt for boiling cod- 
 fish; care should be taken in the boiling of this fish 
 lest the skin be injured, which is by some considered 
 a delicacy. The same sauces may be served with ling 
 as with cod, but it may be observed, that egg-sauce is 
 generally considered the most relishing. 
 
 To Bor Prawns or Surimps.—These fish are often 
 spoiled in undergoing the process of boiling, which is 
 a very simple one if properly managed. First, have 
 some water boiling briskly up, to which a handful of 
 salt must be added, then throw in your prawns. When 
 done, they will rise to the surface; then put them into a 
 colander, and as soon as all the water has drained from 
 them, throw them into a dry towel, quickly rubbing and 
 throwing salt amongst them whilst hot. This done, 
 wrap them up in the towel, and allow them to remain 
 till cold. : , 
 
 To Bom Crass, LopstTers, AND CrAaw-FisH.—Let 
 your water boil briskly up, then put in a handful or two 
 of salt, and plunge in the fish. A quarter of an hour 
 will boil a large crab or lobster. A lesser time in pro- 
 portion to the size of the fish will of course suffice. 
 
 A crab may be killed by cutting any portion between 
 the joints of the legs, when it speedily bleeds to death. 
 If cut in the joints, the contraction of the muscles will 
 prevent the blood from flowing. 
 
 To Bom Britis AnD Puaice.—These fish may be 
 dressed in the same manner as a turbot; but as they are 
 not so thick as the latter fish, they will not take quite so 
 long a time in boiling. The same sauce may be served 
 with them as for turbot. It is important, however, to 
 remark, that crab-sauce is the best adapted for a plaice. 
 
 To Dress Cop-SounDs LIKE LITTLE TURKEYS,— 
 
 
 

 
 STEWING FISH, 127 
 
 - Boil your sounds as for eating, but not too much; take 
 them up and let them stand till they are quite cold, then 
 take a force-meat of chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, 
 alump of butter, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and the yolks of 
 two eggs, fill your sounds with it, and skewer them up 
 in the shape of a turkey; then lard them down each 
 side as you would do a turkey’s breast, dust them well 
 | with flour, and put them in a tin-oven to roast before 
 
 the fire, and baste them well with butter: when they are 
 enough done, pour on them oyster-sauce; three are suffi- 
 cient for a side dish; garnish) with barberries; it is 
 a pretty side dish for a large table for a dinner in Lent. 
 
 To Dress Cop-Sounns (Another fashion).—Steep 
 your sounds as you do the salt cod, and boil them in a 
 large quantity of milk and water; when they are very 
 tender and white, take them up and drain the water out, 
 then pour the egg-sauce boiling hot over them, and 
 serve them up. 
 
 ON STEWING FISH. 
 
 To Stew Sturcron.—Cut your sturgeon in slices of 
 about an inch thick. After you have half-fried them 
 place them in a stew-pan with some good veal broth, an 
 onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let them stew to- 
 gether till perfectly tender; after which fry an onion in 
 the butter in which the fish was fried, pour this, and 
 also the gravy in which the fish was stewed, into a 
 sauce-pan, adding to it a glass or two of white wine, 
 some butter rolled in flour, and a little ketchup. When 
 the whole has boiled, strain it, and pour it over the fish. 
 Garnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 To Stew Cop.—Slice your cod as for frying, and half 
 fry them in butter, then place the yieces in a stew-pan, 
 with equal portions of white wine and water to cover the 
 fish ; add nutmeg, pepper, and salt ; fry an onion, and 
 prepare a fish gravy with the bones of the cod. Pour 
 this with the butter it was fried in into a sauce-pan, to 
 | which add a small piece of butter rolled in flour, a 
 
128 STEWING FISH. 
 
 pickled mushroom or two, a dozen oysters chopped fine, 
 and the juice of a lemon. When the fish is done add 
 the liquor it was stewed in, letting the whole boil up a 
 minute, then strain through a hair-sieve, and placing the 
 cod in a dish, pour this gravy over them. | 
 
 - To Srew Exrris.—Clean eels, put-them in a sauce-pan 
 with a blade or two of mace and a crust of bread. Put 
 water enough to cover them close, and let them stew 
 slowly ; when they are done enough dish them up with 
 the broth, and have parsley and butter served in a sauce- 
 
 a 
 q 
 a 
 P: 
 x 
 
 
 
 boat to eat with them. ‘The broth will be good, and it — 
 
 is very fit for weakly or consumptive constitutions. 
 SrEewepD Exts (Another fashion).—Skin four pounds 
 
 of eels, take off the fins, and cut them about four 
 
 inches in length ; and to one quart of strong beef-gravy 
 
 add half a pint of port wine, two anchovies, one or two — 
 onions stuck with cloves, some horse-radish, and Cayenne _ 
 pepper; put the fish into the above sauce cold, and then — 
 let it stew an hour; a little before itis done sufficiently, 
 
 skim off the fat, take out a little of the gravy; when it 
 
 is cool, stir in some flour, cream, or butter to thicken it, 
 
 and then let it all boil up with the fish, but let the gravy 
 
 be boiled first before the fish is in. The dish should be 
 
 ornamented with lemon and horse-radish. 
 
 To stew Exrts (Another fashion).—Let the eels be 
 cut into pieces about five inches long, put them into 
 water and half boil them ; throw away that water, then 
 put water to them sufficient to cover them and no more, 
 put to them a moderate sized glass of port wine, the 
 same quantity of good ketchup, mace, Cayenne pepper, 
 salt, and horse-radish, thicken them with some butter 
 and flour, let them boil until they are ready, but not to 
 be too soft; fry some bread, and garnish them with 
 pickled barberries, or cucumbers. | 
 
 To Dress Wurite Barr (Another way).—They 
 should be laid in folds of cloth till they are quite dry, 
 shaken in a bag with flour, and then dipped in a thin 
 batter made with a dessert-spoonful of flour, one egg, 
 and a little milk. As they are too delicate and tender 
 
 
 
 - peste 7 e ah 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 STEWING FISH. 129 
 
 to be turned in a frying-pan, they should be: laid sepa- 
 rately on a small fish strainer, and sunk into boiling lard 
 for about two minutes. Some use sweet olive oil. 
 
 To Stew Cop (Another receipt).—Cut cod in slices 
 an inch thick, lay them in the bottom of a large stew- 
 pan; season with nutmeg, beaten pepper, and salt, a 
 bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, half a pint of white 
 wine, and a quarter of a pint of water; cover close, and 
 let it simmer softly for five or six minutes, then squeeze 
 in the juice of a lemon, put in a few oysters and the 
 liquor strained, and a blade er two of mace; cover close, 
 and let it stew softly, shaking the pan often. When it 
 is done enough, take out the sweet herbs and onion, and 
 dish it up; pour the sauce over, and garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
 Cop’s Heap and Suovuipers (Another method), 
 will eat much finer by having a little salt rubbed down 
 the bone, and along the thick part, even if it be eaten 
 the same day. 
 
 Tie it up, and put it on the fire in cold water which 
 will completely cover it; throw a handful of salt into 
 it. Great care must be taken to serve it without the 
 smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large 
 quantity of double parsley, lemon, horse-radish, and the 
 milt, roe, and liver, and fried smelts if approved. If 
 with smelts, be careful that no water hangs about the 
 fish; or the beauty of the smelts will be lost as well 
 as their flavour. 
 
 To Stew Prawns, Surimps, AND CRAW-FISH (Ano- 
 ther recetpt).—Pick out the tails and lay them by, so as 
 to be about two quarts; then take the bodies, give 
 them a bruise, and put them in a pint of white wine, 
 with a blade of mace; let them stew a quarter of an 
 hour, stir them together, and strain them; then wash 
 out the sauce-pan, put to it the strained liquor and tails, 
 grate a small nutmeg in, add a little salt, and a quarter 
 of a pound of butter rolled in flour. Now shake all 
 together; cut a pretty thin toast round a quartern loaf, 
 
 toast it brown on both sides, cut it into six pieces, lay it 
 
 K 
 
130 STEWING FISH. 
 
 close together in the bottom of a dish, and pour the fish 
 and sauce over it. Send it to table hot. If it be craw- 
 fish or prawns, garnish the dish with some of the biggest 
 elaws laid thick round. Water will do in the room of 
 wine, only add a spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF Cop.—Take the sounds, roes, &c., of 
 several cods, split them and scrape them well, then 
 blanch them ; being blanched, put them in fresh water, 
 wash them very clean and cut them mto square pieces 
 the size of the end of a thumb. Then put a lump of 
 butter in a stew-pan, toss i# up with an onion cut small, 
 after that put in your pieces, and give them two or three 
 tosses; this done, put a little flour over them, moisten 
 them with a little fish-broth, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 sweet herbs, fine spice, and let them stew gently ; being 
 done, thicken it with yolks of eggs, parsley cut small, — 
 with a dash of vinegar or verjuice, and serve them hot 
 for entry. 
 
 To Stew Lampreys.—Skin and gut your lampreys, 
 season them well with pepper, salt, cloves, nutmeg, and 
 mace, not pounded too fine, and a little lemon-peel shred 
 fine; then cut some thin slices of butter into the bottom 
 of your sauce-pan, put inthe fish, and half a pint of nice 
 gravy, half the quantity of white wine and cider, the 
 same of claret, with a small bundle of thyme, winter 
 savory, pot marjoram, and an onion sliced; stew them 
 over a slow fire, and keep turning the lampreys till they 
 are quite tender. When they are tender take them out, 
 and put in one anchovy, and thicken the sauce with the 
 yolk of an egg, or a little butter rolled in flour, and 
 pour it over the fish and serve them up. 
 
 N.B. Roll them round a skewer before you put them 
 into a pan. 
 
 To Stew Carr.—Scale and clean it; take care of 
 the roe, &c.; lay the fish in a stew-pan, with some good 
 beef-gravy, an onion, eight cloves, a dessert-spoonful of 
 Jamaica pepper, the same of black, and two glasses of 
 wine; cover it close, and let it simmer; when nearly 
 done, add two anchovies chopped fine, a dessert-spoonful 
 
 
 
STEWING FISH. fol 
 
 of made mustard,.some walnut ketchup, and a bit of 
 butter rolled in flour. Shake it, and let the gravy boil 
 a few minutes. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the 
 roe fried, and a good deal of horse-radish and lemon. 
 
 To Stew LogstTers In THE In1tsH Way.—-Cut and 
 break a boiled lobster into pieces, not too small, prepare 
 a mixture of mustard, vinegar, and Cayenne, put this 
 with the lobster and a large sized lump of butter, well 
 floured, into a stew-pan, let it boil for about five mi- 
 nutes, then throw in a glass of sherry or Madeira, and 
 let it boil for five minutes more, serve it up and garnish 
 with sliced lemon. | 
 
 StewED Finuets or Sote.—Boil in a stew-pan two 
 ounces of butter, and when boiling dredge in a table- 
 spoonful of flour. Let them fry with a bundle of herbs 
 and a clove of garlic, until the flour is of a rich brown 
 colour. Then moisten with a very small quantity of 
 stock-broth, which reduce to a glaze. Continue to 
 moisten until you have about a pint of sauce. Add to 
 this a spoonful of lemon-pickle, one of soy, and half an 
 anchovy chopped very small. Reduce the sauce very 
 slowly to a good consistence ; when done, season it to 
 your taste, and put into it a little fresh butter kneaded 
 in flour, which mix well by agitating the stew-pan. In 
 the mean time, divide your soles into pretty large fillets. 
 Place these fillets cold on the dish in which they are to 
 be served, putting under each a rather thin slice of 
 bread, fried in butter to a nice brown. Set the dish in 
 an oven or before the fire, so that the fillets of fish may 
 become warm. When they are sufficiently so, pour 
 over them the sauce, which must be pretty thick. 
 
 To Dress Cop-risH that has been left the day be- 
 fore.—Break the fish into flakes, to which put an ounce 
 of butter into a stew-pan, with chopped shalot, parsley, 
 and mushrooms; put it on the stove to simmer for a few 
 minutes, then put a table-spoonful of stock in the stew- 
 pan, with as much flour as will dry it up, then a little 
 clear stock and cream sufficient to make it white. Let it 
 boil a few minutes, put in a few drops of essence of an- 
 
 Ke 
 
132 FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 
 
 chovy, squeeze in a little lemon juicey and a little Cay- 
 enne pepper. Set it on the side of the stove to keep 
 hot, do not let it boil, and dish it up. If you make it 
 of cod that has not been dressed you must boil it first. 
 
 ON FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 
 
 Directions FoR Fryina Fisu.—In the first place 
 the fire must be free from smoke, and yet not burn too 
 fiercely; secondly, the pan must be very clean and not 
 over-worn, as in the latter case it would discolour the 
 fish, and cause it to stick to the pan ; thirdly, the pan 
 when placed upon the fire should be moistened with a 
 little butter or lard, which, when properly dissolved, 
 must be wiped off again with a cloth previous to the fish 
 being put in; fourthly, there must be plenty of lard, or 
 oil, whichever is preferred, to fry your fish in. The 
 lard must be completely dissolved, or if oil be used jit 
 must be allowed to boil a minute or two before the fish 
 is placed in the pan; fifthly, the fish should always be 
 wiped thoroughly dry with a cloth, then powdered with 
 flour, or coated with bread-crumbs and egg ; sixthly, the 
 fish must not be left unattended to for an instant when 
 in the pan, and when sufficiently done on one side, it 
 should be carefully turned on the other. When fried on 
 both sides let the fat drain from. it upon a hair-sieve. It 
 should then be placed upon a napkin on the dish in 
 which it is to be served. Oil is generally considered 
 the best to fry fish in, and is always used for the purpose 
 in France, as butter does not fry it well except when 
 the fish is partially fried, previous to undergoing stewing 
 or any other process. In such case good fresh butter 
 only ought to be employed. The fat, if put carefully 
 by, will serve for another occasion. If these rules be 
 strictly attended to any person may, after a few trials, 
 be enabled to surmount such difficulties as occur in this 
 branch of the business of the cook. | 
 -' To Brom tarce Cop, Line, anp Happocxs.— 
 ‘All these fishes should be cut up in pieces in the same 
 
 
 
 
 
FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 133 
 
 way as for frying, but the bread-crumbs and egg must 
 be omitted. The slices should be well floured, and 
 then set on a gridiron over a clear fire, putting to them 
 a little pepper and salt while dressing ; when done, rub 
 in some butter before the fire, and serve the fish up with 
 plain melted butter. Mustard and vinegar is a good 
 accompaniment. 
 
 To Brom. Herrines.—Prepare these fishes in the 
 same manner as for frying, thoroughly dry and flour 
 them. It seems to be lately the better opinion that the 
 roes are not to be dressed in fish. The best plan, it is 
 said, is to fry the roes, lest they should drop through the 
 bars of the gridiron. Melted butter mixed with mus- 
 tard and Tarragon vinegar is an excellent sauce to be 
 served with this fish. 
 
 To Bro PircHarps.—Pilchards should be placed 
 upon the gridiron without any preparation whatever, 
 and when done served with a lemon cut in halves. Take 
 the scales entire with a knife. They may also be eaten 
 with salt and water, and a raw onion cut in slices, as 
 herrings are sometimes eaten in Holland and Germany. 
 Plain melted butter, however, is the best sauce for them, 
 but they may also be served with the Dutch sauce. 
 
 To Brom Rep Muxtitet.—Open your mullets with 
 a sharp knife a little below the throat, and carefully ex- 
 tract the intestines without injuring or bruising the 
 liver, then sew up the aperture, allowing the liver to re- 
 main in the fish; place it upon white paper well but- 
 tered, broil over a slow fire, serve them in the paper 
 with plain melted butter, in which the livers may 
 afterwards be mixed or not ad libitum. 
 
 A good plan when you draw your fish is, to preserve 
 the livers and boil them in a small quantity of water— 
 in fact, as much as is required for your melted butter, so 
 that in case the livers should break in boiling, then you 
 still retain their valuable qualities. 
 
 To Dress Rep Mutuer (Another fashion).-—The 
 best mode of dressing these delicate fish (the sea wood- 
 cock), is to wipe them dry, but not empty them, and 
 
134 FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 
 
 broil them in larded white paper, or what is better, sa- 
 lad oil. They may be fried or baked. The liquor that 
 comes from them may be boiled with a piece of butter 
 dusted with flour, a tea-spoonful of soy, a little essence 
 of anchovies, and white wine, and served up separately. 
 Send them up to table without the paper. 
 
 WuitE-Bait.—The following method of dressing 
 white-bait, as practised at Blackwall, is extracted from 
 ‘‘ Pereira’s Observations on Food and Diet.” 
 
 “Having had an opportunity of seeing the mode of 
 cooking the fish, as practised at Lovegrove’s, at Black- 
 wall, the following notice of the process may not, per- 
 haps, be uninteresting: I was informed that the fish 
 should be cooked within an hour after being caught, 
 or they are apt to cling together. Those which I 
 saw cooked were, from time to time, removed as re- | 
 quired by a skimmer. They were then thrown on a 
 stratum of flour contained in a large napkin, in which 
 they were shaken until completely enveloped in flour. 
 In this state they were placed in a colander, and all the 
 superfluous flour removed by sifting. ‘They were now 
 thrown into hot melted lard contained in a copper 
 cauldron or stew-vessel placed over a charcoal fire. A 
 kind of ebullition immediately commenced, and in about 
 two minutes they were removed by a thin skimmer, 
 thrown into a colander to drain, and served up by plac- 
 ing them on a fish-drainer in a dish. At table they are 
 flavoured with Cayenne and lemon juice, and eaten with 
 brown bread and butter ; iced punch being the favourite 
 accompanying beverage.” 
 
 To Brom Mackaret.—Clean them, split them down 
 the back, season with pepper and salt, mint, parsley, 
 and fennel, chopped fine, and flour them; broil of a 
 light brown, then put them on a dish and strainer. 
 Garnish with parsley. The sauce is fennel and butter, 
 in a boat. 
 
 To Brom MackarEL WHOLE (Another fashion).— 
 Cut off the heads, gut and wash them clean, pull out the 
 roe at the neck end, boil it, then bruise it with a spoon. 
 
 
 
FRYING AND BROILING FISH. I3d 
 
 Now beat up the yolk of an egg, with a little nutmeg, 
 a little lemon-peel cut fine, little thyme, some parsley 
 boiled and chopped fine, a little pepper and salt, and a 
 few crumbs of bread. Mix all these together, and fill 
 the mackarel. Flour it well, and broil it nicely. Let 
 the sauce be plain butter, with a little ketchup or wal- 
 nut-pickle. 
 
 To Fry Herrines.—Clean them as above, and fry 
 them in butter. Have ready a good many onions peeled 
 and cut thin; fry of a light brown with the herrings ; 
 lay the herrings in a dish, and the onions round, with 
 butter and mustard in a cup. Do them with a quick 
 fire. 
 
 To Brom Herrines.—Scale and gut them, cut off 
 their heads, wash them clean, dry them in a cloth, flour 
 and broil them; take the heads and mash them, boil 
 them in small beer or ale, with a little whole pepper and 
 an onion. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, strain it, 
 thicken it with butter and flour, and a good deal of mus- 
 tard. Lay the fish in a dish, and pour the sauce into a 
 basin, or use plain melted butter and mustard. 
 
 To Brow Happocxs.—Secale, gut, and wash them 
 clean; do not rip open their bellies, but take the guts out 
 with the gills; dry them in a clean cloth very well; and 
 if there be any roe or liver, take it out, but put it in 
 again; flour them well, and have a clear, good fire. Let 
 the gridiron be hot and clean, lay them on, and turn 
 them two or three times for fear of sticking; then let 
 one side be done enough, and turn the other side. When 
 that is done, lay them in a dish, and have plain butter in 
 a cup, or anchovy and butter. They eat finely salted a 
 day or two before you dress them, and hung up to dry; 
 or boiled, with egg-sauce. 
 
 Scotch haddocks are to lay in water all night. You 
 may boil or broil them. If you broil, you must split 
 them in two. Garnish with hard egeg's and parsnips. 
 
 To Fry Lamerreys.—Bleed them and save the blood, 
 then wash them in hot water to take off the slime, and 
 cut them to pieces, Fry them in a little fresh butter, 
 
136 FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 7 
 
 not quite done enough, and then pour out the fat, put 
 in a little white wine, give the pan a shake round. 
 Season with whole pepper, nutmeg, salt, sweet herbs, 
 and a bay-leaf; put in a few capers, a good piece of 
 butter rolled in flour and the blood; give the pan a 
 shake round often, and cover them close. When they 
 are done enough, take them out, strain the sauce, then 
 give a boil quick, squeeze in a lemon, and pour it over 
 the fish. Garnish with lemon. © 
 
 Browwep SaumMon.—Having cut your salmon into 
 pieces, melt some good butter in a stew-pan, season it 
 with salt, pepper, and bay-leaves ; then put in your 
 pieces of salmon, to take a taste, and strew them with 
 crumbs of bread; then boil them gently. Make a white 
 sauce in this manner :—Put good fresh butter into a 
 stew-pan, with a dust of flour, a couple of anchovies 
 minced, take out their great bones and wash, add some 
 capers, salt, pepper, nutmeg, whole green onions, with a 
 little water and vinegar; your salmon being broiled, 
 toss it up, and let it be well tasted; then take out your 
 onions, put the sauce over the salmon, and serve it up 
 hot for entry. 
 
 Broiwep Trouts.—Take the middling sort of trouts, 
 gut, wash, and wipe them with a linen cloth, then slice 
 them across, melt a lump of butter, put a little salt to 
 it, and then pour it over your trouts, and stir them; lay 
 them upon a gridiron, and let them broil over a slow 
 fire, turning them now and then, and keeping up the 
 fire. When broiled, serve them up with a white sauce 
 made in the following manner: ‘Take some butter, put 
 it in a stew-pan with a dust of flour, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, whole green onions, some capers, 
 and anchovies ; moisten the broiled trouts with a little 
 water and vinegar, and put it upon the stove, stirring it 
 constantly, till the sauce is thickened enough, then 
 make it relishing; dish up your trouts, put your sauce 
 over them, and serve them up hot. 
 
 If you have a mind to serve up your trouts with a 
 
 
 
FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 137 
 
 craw-fish cullis, you must put no capers in your white 
 sauce; when it is thickened, put you craw-fish cullis 
 into it, and your trouts being broiled, dish them up. 
 Your sauce should be poured over the fish, and serve 
 them up hot. 
 
 Bromep Trovuts, wirh Musnrooms.—Gut your 
 trouts and broil them in the same manner as is shown 
 before: when they are broiled, dish them up, pour a 
 ragout with mushrooms over them, and serve them up 
 hot. 
 
 TROUTS DRESSED IN A STEW-PAN.—Take some 
 trouts, which being gutted and washed well, put a 
 little minced meat in their belly; take a stew-pan, put a 
 lump of butter into it, with some parsley, and green 
 onions cut, and sweet herbs, all cut small, likewise some 
 pepper and salt, fine spice, and an anchovy cut small ; 
 then put in your trouts, and place them upon hot cinders, 
 turn them now and then, and send them to the oven, to 
 get a colour, dish them up, and put lemon-juice over 
 them, and serve them up hot. 
 
 Soles, salmon, whitings, smelts, &c., may be all dressed 
 in the same way. ; 
 
 FIttets or MACKAREL BROILED.—Broil as follows : 
 rub over with yolk of egg, then cover them with 
 crumbs of bread, dip them into clarified butter, and 
 cover a second time with bread crumbs ; broil of a nice 
 brown colour. . 
 
 The sauce to be made: take a lump of fresh butter 
 and put into a stew-pan, when melted, add a table- 
 spoonful of flour, let the flour boil over a slow fire for a 
 short time, taking care it does not change colour, then 
 moisten by degrees with veal or chicken-broth, or water, 
 and season to taste. When the liquor is all in the 
 sauce, add some small mushrooms parboiled, and when 
 nearly done, two ounces of truffles. Take the sauce off 
 the fire when ready, and thicken with two yolks of eggs, 
 beat up with a table spoonful of Tarragon vinegar, 
 and half that quantity of soft water. Place the fillets in 
 
138 FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 
 
 a dish standing up round the circumference, and pour 
 the sauce into the middle. 
 
 To rry Fitters or Mackareu.-—Toss and fry them 
 in a stew-pan, send them up to table covered with the 
 white sauce for mackarel. 
 
 To Fry or BrorL MackaRreL.—Mackarel is a fish 
 generally esteemed by all ranks of people. The rich 
 eat it on account of its good savour, the poor because it 
 is cheap. It must not be washed when intended to be 
 broiled; empty and wipe it well; open the back, and 
 put into it a little salt and oil. Broil it ona gentle fire, 
 turn it over on both sides, and also on the back. With 
 the point of your knife try if it be done, by detaching the 
 bone from the flesh. 
 
 To rry Trout, GRAYLING, PeERrcH, AND TENCH.— 
 Scale, gut, and wash them well; dry them and lay them 
 separately on a board before the fire ; after dusting some 
 flour over them, fry them of a fine colour in fresh drip- 
 ping, or hog’s lard. Serve with crisp parsley and plain 
 butter. 
 
 To Fry Smeirs.—After having washed them, and 
 taken away the gills, dry them in a cloth; beat up an 
 egg very fine, rub it over them with a feather, and strew 
 on crumbs of bread. Fry them in hog’s lard over a clear 
 fire, and put them in when the fat is boiling hot; when 
 they are of a fine brown, take them out, and drain off 
 the fat. Garnish with fried parsley and lemon. 
 
 Brorzep MacKxaren (Another receipt)—Put the 
 fish, without splitting it, on an inclined gridiron, over a 
 slow fire ; baste it with olive oil, or clarified butter, by 
 rubbing it on with a feather. When nearly done leave 
 off basting it, have ready a little fresh butter worked 
 into a paste with the juice of half a lemon, some pepper 
 and salt, a little Cayenne at pleasure, and some chopped 
 parsley. Cover with this mixture the mackarel hot from 
 the gridiron, and serve it up. 
 
 FRIED cRIMPED Cop.—Take your slices, dredge them 
 with flour, and fry in a full pan of oil, dripping, or but- 
 
 
 
FRYING AND BROILING FISH. 139 
 
 ter, or it may be stewed in French liquid, and sent 
 to table covered over with the white sauce, as for fillets 
 of mackarel. 
 
 To press Rep Herrincs.—Having steeped them in 
 boiling water, toast them before the fire, till they are 
 sufficiently done; then rub over them as much butter 
 as they will absorb before the fire. If hard roes, open 
 them gently by the belly, and insert some butter between 
 the roe, closing it again that the heat may melt the but- 
 ter inside. Mustard is an agreeable relish to red her- 
 rings. If one of a parcel be found too salt, you should 
 steep the remaining in new milk before dressing them. 
 
 To press Rep Herrines (Another way).—Choose 
 those that are large and moist, cut them open, and pour 
 some boiling small beer over them; let them soak half 
 an hour, drain them dry, and make them just hot 
 through before the fire, then rub some cold butter over 
 them, and serve them with egg-sauce, or mashed pota- 
 toes. 
 
 Tue PricHarp.—These fish may be broiled, or fried, 
 or baked in jars, with a little water, salt, and vinegar, 
 an onion, and two bay-leaves. When baked they may 
 be eaten either hot or cold. 
 
 To rry Wurrine.—Serape off the scales and cut off 
 the fins, wipe them dry with a clean cloth, beat up the 
 yolk of an egg, and with a feather rub them over with 
 it, sprinkle over them finely-grated bread crumbs. Fry 
 them of a nice brown in boiling fresh lard, or dripping. 
 If small, and used as a garnish, they should be curled. 
 
 To broil, after the French way, you do not skin them, 
 but slit the back on both sides, rubbing them over with 
 yolk of egg and bread crumbs. Serve with anchovy, 
 or shrimp sauce, or melted butter. 
 
 Frnuets or RoacuEs with Sweet HeErgss.—Gut 
 your roaches, cut off their heads, and take them off in 
 slices, put them into a stew-pan with a few sweet herbs, 
 some parsley, and green onions, cut small, and seasoned 
 with pepper and salt; put melted butter to them, and 
 let them simmer for an hour to get a taste ; then set 
 
 
 
140 ROASTING AND BAKING, 
 
 them upon hot cinders to melt the butter, strew them 
 with fine crumbs of bread, then broil them. Make a 
 remonlade with good oil, a few capers, and parsley, cut 
 small, with a small green onion, and an anchovy, pepper, 
 and salt, mustard, a little nutmeg, and lemon-juice. 
 The whole being well mixed together, put them into a 
 saucer, or under your roaches; the slices being broiled 
 pretty brown, place them in their dish, and serve them 
 for entry. 
 
 ROASTING AND BAKING, 
 
 To roast A StTurGEoN.—Sturgeon is much im- 
 proved by laying in salt and water for six or eight hours, 
 then cleanse and scrape it thoroughly, fix it on a spit, 
 and baste it well with butter while roasting, dredging 
 it occasionally with flour; when half done, have prepared 
 some fine grated bread, with some sweet herbs, and a 
 little parsley chopped fine, and strewn over it, which by 
 the aid of a little butter, will adhere firmly to the fish. 
 When done serve it with the following sauce. 
 
 Sauce For Roast Sturcron.—A pint of water, an 
 anchovy, a small piece of lemon-peel, an onion, a 
 bundle of sweet herbs, mace, cloves, whole pepper, 
 black and white, and a piece of horse-radish; cover it 
 close to boil for a quarter of an hour, then after strain- 
 ing it, put it again in the sauce-pan with a pint of white 
 wine, a dozen of oysters and their liquor, two spoonfuls 
 of walnut ketchup, the inside of a crab bruised fine, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of mushroom 
 ketchup, let all simmer, dish your fish, and pour this 
 sauce over it. 
 
 To ROAST LARGE ExELs oR LAMPREYS, WITH A 
 PuppING IN THE Betty.—Skin your eels or lampreys, 
 cut off the head, take the guts out, and scrape the 
 blood clean from the bone, then make a good force- 
 meat of oysters or shrimps, chopped small, the crumb 
 of half a penny loaf, a little nutmeg or lemou-peel, shred 
 fine, pepper, salt, and the yolks of two eggs; put them 
 
 
 
FISH, PATTIES, &¢. 141 
 
 in the belly of your fish, sew it up, turn it round on 
 your dish, put over it flour and butter, pour a little water 
 on your dish, and bake it in a moderate oven; when it 
 comes out, take the gravy from under it, and scum off 
 the fat, then strain it through a hair-sieve, add to it a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, two of browning, a meat- 
 spoonful of walnut-ketchup, a glass of white wine, one 
 anchovy, and a slice of lemon ; let it boil ten minutes, 
 thicken it with butter and flopr, and send it up in a 
 sauce-boat, dish your fish; garnish it with lemon and crisp 
 parsley. 
 
 SOLES DRESSED WITH SwEET HERgs.—Clean them 
 well, chop off the heads and tails, and slit them up the 
 back; rub a silver dish, or a baking-pan with butter, 
 season it with pepper, salt, a few sweet herbs, chopped 
 parsley, and some whole green onions, place your fish in 
 it, season them over and under the same way, sprinkle 
 them with fresh butter, strew them with fine crumbs of 
 bread, and put them in the oven. When baked to a fine 
 colour, take them out, take off the fat, serve them up 
 hot with an anchovy-sauce under them, for a course or 
 
 small dish. : 
 
 SCOLLOPING, PATTIES, &c. 
 
 To press Rep Muuiers (Another fashion).—In 
 general, to eat them in great perfection, you must wash 
 them well, but not empty them, drain them very dry in 
 a clean cloth; then have some buttered paper and a 
 little salt, wrap them well in it, and put them into the 
 oven, or broil them if you have no oven. They may 
 be eaten with lobster sauce, or anchovy sauce alone ; 
 send them to table without the paper. 
 
 You may dress them in another way, by putting them 
 in the oven in a buttered baking-dish, and covering them 
 with buttered paper; when they are done, serve over 
 them the following sauce :-— 
 
 Put in a small stew-pan a little bit of butter, a few pieces 
 
142 FISH, PATTIES, &c. 
 
 of ham, cut into dice, a few leaves of mace, two cloves, a 
 little thyme, a few bits of mushroom, some parsley roots, 
 one shalot, cut into four, and a small bit of carrot; fry them 
 on a slow fire till they become a little brown, then moisten 
 with a glass of good Madeira, and put but little sugar ; 
 reduce the wine to half the quantity, add to this a 
 spoonful or two of good Espagnole, skim away all the 
 fat, put the sauce through a tammy, and add to it a bit 
 of fresh butter, about q quarter of a pound, add to this 
 the gravy from the fish. Season the sauce of very good 
 taste, with salt, pepper, lemon, &c., and if the sauce 
 should not be thick enough, add a small bit of butter, 
 with a little flour. 
 
 LosstTER (Another way)—Lobsters are boiled in the 
 same manner as craw-fish, but they would have a better 
 savour if sea-water could be had to boil them in. Se- 
 veral ragotéts are made of lobsters. Pies for entrées ; 
 salades for entremets; fish sauce, and minces in the 
 shell, &c. You must pay attention to the proper time 
 required for boiling a lobster; if you boil it too long, 
 the flesh becomes thready and disagreeable; and if not 
 done enough, the spawn is not red through: this must 
 be obviated by great attention. 
 
 ScoLttors oF LospsTeR IN THE SHELL.—This is an 
 entremet. 'Take one or two lobsters, according to the 
 size of the dish, or the number of people you have to 
 dinner. Cut the lobster in two without breaking the 
 shell ; clean the inside of the shell, cut the meat of the 
 lobsters into small dice, and preserve the kind of farce 
 that is inside ; then take one or two spoonfuls of velouté, 
 a small bit of butter, a little salt, and Cayenne pepper, 
 and keep stirring the whole over the fire. When it is 
 quite hot, throw the meat, and the kind of farce that 
 you found in the lobster into the sauce, and lay the 
 whole in the shells. Level with your knife, and strew 
 over crumbs of bread twice, and keep basting with a 
 little melted butter. Give it a colour with the salaman- 
 der, and keep the scollops very hot. Never let it co- 
 lour in the oven, as it would taste too strong. . 
 
 
 
FISH, PATTIES, &c. 1438 
 
 Lobster may be dressed also without any sauce; 
 merely break the shell, and give an agreeable shape to 
 the dish by putting the body in the middle, the tail cut 
 in two on each side, and the claws at the end; the flesh 
 of this fish is very fine, and can be used in cookery for 
 petits patés of all kinds. 
 
 Scot.ors or Oysters.—The English green oysters 
 are the best that are known. After having opened 
 them, boil them in their own liquor, but do not let them 
 be too much done. Next beard them and return them 
 into the liquor, out of which you take them with the 
 bored ladle. Let the liquor stand, and drain it from the 
 sand. Make a little white rowx, moisten with the liquor, 
 and when the sauce is got pretty thick, add a spoonful 
 or two of cream, and a spoonful of béchamelle; put the 
 oysters into this sauce, and season them with salt and 
 pepper. Next put them into the shell used for that pur- 
 pose, stew them over twice with butter and crumbs of 
 bread; give them a good colour with the salamander, 
 and serve them up very hot with the juice of a lemon. 
 You may grate a little nutmeg over them if you think 
 proper; but never omit parsley chopped very fine. Some 
 people add mushrooms, which are no improvement. 
 
 Smati Oyster Parties (After Lord Sefton's 
 
  fashion).—Pick out the smallest oysters you can find, 
 
 
 
 and boil and beard them as above. Make the sauce also 
 in the same manner, only add to it a little cavice and 
 butter, and a little pepper and salt. Have about two 
 dozen of small patties ready; fill them with oysters and 
 as much sauce as they will hold; have also some crumbs 
 of bread fried of a fine colour, strew some over the small 
 pies, which dish en buisson. Serve them up very hot. 
 This addition of the fried crumbs of bread gives a very 
 pleasant taste. 
 
 Saxtap or Sotes.—Divide the cold fish boned into 
 small bits, as for a fricassee, and put it into a deep dish 
 or salad-bowl. Mix with it a spoonful of capers, an 
 anchovy chopped, and a few hearts of lettuces. ‘Then ~ 
 pour over and mix well with it four spoonfuls of olive 
 
144 FISH, PATTIES, &¢; 
 
 oil. Now, rub up the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, with 
 sufficient salt for the salad, plenty of pepper, a tea- 
 spoonful of mustard, half a table-spoonful of mush- 
 room ketchup, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Pour 
 this into the salad, and mix all well together. 
 
 Fisu Pres may be made of all sorts of fish, especially 
 soles, salmon, cod fish, and eels, either mixed or sepa- 
 rate. Season well, add a little cape wine, and broth in 
 equal parts, plenty of fresh butter, and bake in a quick 
 oven. Shrimp pie is excellent; the shrimps must be 
 
 very fresh, and shelled. This is not an expensive pie. 
 
 Lobster, craw-fish, and crab, also make excellent pies. 
 A few oysters are an improvement to all these pies, which 
 may be eaten either hot or cold. 
 
 BurrEerEeD Losster.—Take two lobsters, when they 
 are boiled and cold, cut one of the bodies down the 
 middle, take all the meat out of the rest of the shells, — 
 and the other body, mince it small, put it in a saucepan, 
 adda glass of white wine, two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 a little grated nutmeg’, pepper, and salt; let it boil, then 
 have ready half a pound of fresh butter, melted with an 
 anchovy and the yolk of two eggs, beat up and mixed 
 with the butter. Mix all together, shaking the sauce- 
 pan round till it is quite hot. Lay the body of the lob- 
 ster in the middle of the dish, and put the minced 
 round it. 
 
 To Racour Satmon.—Take a quarter of a pound 
 of butter and melt it in a stew-pan, then shake in as 
 much flour, stirring it all the time till the butter looks 
 brown; then add some good broth or gravy, stir it all 
 
 together, put in the salmon, and let it simmer gently; 7 
 
 add to it half a spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and 
 the same of walnut-ketchup, or pickle, and a little soy. 
 
 Take out the salmon when hot, place it in the dish, 
 and pour the gravy through a sieve over it. 
 
 To ScoxLtor Surimes.—Shell three pints of shrimps, 
 stew them in cream, and bake in a Dutch oven with 
 bread crumbs, butter, pepper, and salt, the same as scol- 
 Joped oysters. | 
 
 
 
FISH, PATTIES, &c. 145 
 
 Logpster ScoLttorep.—Take the lobster from the 
 shell, break it into small pieces, place it in a stew-pan, 
 season with Cayenne pepper, a little Tarragon and Chili 
 vinegar, salt, bruised mace, and some bread crumbs; 
 place the whole in scollop shells ; then break up the shell 
 and claws of the lobster, and place it in a small quantity 
 of water; let the whole stew until reduced to half its 
 original bulk, then strain off the liquor and place it in a 
 stew-pan, and thicken it with a piece of floured butter; 
 pour this over the lebster sufficient to moisten the whole, 
 sprinkle bread- crumbs over the top, and bake the scollops 
 in a Dutch oven before the fire; when done, brown the 
 bread-crumbs with a salamander, and serve them up in 
 the scollop shells. 
 
 To Dress A Cras cotp.—Extract the meat of a 
 boiled crab, carefully picking out every particle of shell; 
 mix the whole well together with a quantity of mustard 
 and Chili, Tarragon, or common vinegar, and season 
 with pepper, salt, and a little Cayenne; then thoroughly 
 cleanse the back-shell, fill it with the meat, which should 
 
 _ be eaten cold without any further dressing. 
 
 To PickLE UNDRESSED SaumMon.—Scale your fish, 
 and rub it well with a dry cloth, scrape out all the blood 
 about the back-bone, but do not wash it. Cut off the 
 head, and cut the body into two or three pieces across ; 
 then boil your fish in equal parts of vinegar and water, 
 with a few cloves, allspice, bay-leaves, and blades of 
 mace until it be done; skim off the scum whilst your 
 
 fish is boiling; when done, take out the fish, and let 
 
 that and the liquor become cold; then add to it about 
 one-third more vinegar, and throw in some whole pep- 
 per. 
 
 To Pickite corp Satmon.—Boil a portion of the 
 water in which your salmon was dressed, add to this 
 
 _ about the same quantity of vinegar, and throw in a few 
 
 whole pepper-eorns, allspice, and bay-leaves; as soon as 
 
 it boils, take it off the fire, and put in any previously 
 
 cooked salmon you may wish to preserve in this way. In 
 L 
 
146 : BRAIZES. 
 
 the event of your salmon being underdone, boil it in the 
 pickle until thoroughly done throughout. 
 
 Mackare., Tursot, Trout, Mururt, Cop, Line, 
 and almost every kind of fish that are adapted for boil- 
 ing, may be preserved in the same manner as above laid 
 down. A few bay-leaves boiled in the pickle is a de- 
 cided improvement to the fish. a 
 
 To PickLe Oysrers.—In opening your oysters, take 
 care to preserve their liquor. This you may readily 
 effect by opening them in the deep shell, as is practised 
 in France and Belgium. To this add an equal quantity 
 of vinegar, a glass of white wine, throw in a blade of 
 mace, some whole pepper-corns, and a little salt; boil 
 this for five minutes, taking care to remove the scum; 
 then put in your oysters, and let them simmer very 
 gently for about ten minutes; then put them with their 
 liquor into deep earthen pots, and tie them over with 
 bladder, white leather, and paper, or with tin-foil, as is 
 used on the Continent, so as effectually to exclude the 
 air. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON BRAIZES IN GENERAL. 
 
 Every thing that is braized must be done thoroughly, 
 and must be seasoned with spices, sweet herbs, vegetables, 
 &e. Though not of the first order of cookery, it is ex- 
 pensive, requires much care and constant attention, and 
 nicety in the art. The things which belong to the class 
 of braizes, are fricandeaux, sweet-breads, cutlets of mut- 
 on, veal, tendons of veal, rump of beef, leg of mutton, 
 
 &c. &e. Braizing is, in truth, a more scientific way of 
 
 stewing. 
 
 A BraizE To press Breer, Murron, or Any 
 oTHER Mrat.—Take a braizing-pot, line the bottom 
 with slices of bacon, beef, and onions, then put in it your 
 meat, and season with salt, pepper, onions, carrots, sweet 
 basil, thyme, and bay-leaves ; lay over it more slices of 
 
 
 

 
 POSLEs. 147 
 
 beef and bacon, cover it, and let it be done with fire 
 over and under. You may in this sort of braize dress 
 beef, mutton, or any other meat. A sheet of buttered 
 paper is generally put over braized meats to prevent their 
 being browned by the fire. 
 
 A Waite Braize.—Take a braizing-pot, line with 
 slices of bacon, veal, and onions ; you can add pieces of 
 turkey and pullets, or any other of the white meat. Sea- 
 son with salt, pepper, sweet basil, bay-leaves, and garlic; 
 then simmer the whole. This braize serves for all sorts 
 of rolled meat. | 
 
 Or SeAsonine Sprices.—Put in a mortar half an 
 ounce of grated nutmeg, half an ounce of broken cloves, 
 a quarter of an ounce of white pepper, a quarter of an 
 ounce of allspice, a quarter of an ounce of broken mace, 
 a quarter of an ounce of dried thyme; work the whole 
 to powder, pass it through a silk sieve, and put it into a 
 tin-box that shuts very close, so as to retain the strength 
 of the spices. Mix with one ounce of this preparation 
 one pound of salt, dried in the oven, and finely sifted ; 
 to one pound of veal, when boned, put half an ounce of 
 this seasoned spice, which will season it effectually. Your 
 spices must be of the very best. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON POELES IN GENERAL. 
 
 PotiEs is almost the same operation as braizing, 
 only that what is poélés must be underdone, and a braize 
 must be done through. 
 
 As the articles which are poélés require to preserve 
 their whiteness, they must not be kept on the fire so long 
 as others. For a fowl to be done in this way, three 
 quarters of an hour is enough; a capon an hour, and 
 so on. 
 
 Pofixs.—Take one pound of beef suet, one pound of 
 very fresh butter, and one pound of very fat bacon ; cut 
 the suet and bacon into very large dice, put into a stew- 
 pan, with an equal quantity of veal cut in the same way, 
 
 L 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
148 POELE. 
 
 and fried till the veal becomes very white ; then moister 
 with about three pints of clear boilmg broth or water, a 
 handful of salt, one bay-leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, 
 one onion stuck with three cloves, a good bundle of 
 parsley, and green onions. Let the whole boil gently 
 till the onion is done, then drain it through a hair sieve, 
 
 and use it for any thing that may want poélé. The 
 use of poélé is to make every thing boiled in it very 
 white and relishing. In the winter it keeps for a week, 
 and is useful in the larder, particularly if you do not 
 put any of the fleshy part of the bacon, otherwise, what- - 
 ever you boil in it, will turn red, 
 
 
 
SAUCES, 149 
 
 _ SAUCES, ESSENCES, AND CONDIMENTS, 
 
 _ Aw sauces should be served hot; when with cream 
 and eggs, they should be very well stirred after these 
 ingredients are added, to prevent their curdling, and 
 warmed through, but not to boil, The same care should 
 be taken in mixing capers, acid, and pickles, when used 
 in sauces. When wine, ketchup, lemon-juice, spices, 
 are used, &c. &c., they should not be in for a longer 
 time than what is necessary to extract the flavour. 
 Brown sauces should be thinner than white. Cream 
 should be boiled before it is mixed with any soup or 
 sauce. : 7 
 
 OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO ALL SORTS OF 
 FISH AND OTHER SAUCES. 
 
 FisH sauces should always be thick enough to adhere 
 to the fish; when too thin, they are bad. The thick is 
 preferable, for you can add some of the cruet sauces. 
 
 EssENCE OF Ham For Gravies.—Pick all the meat 
 clean from a ham bone, leaving out any rusty or rancid 
 part ; break. the bone, and put both into a sauce-pan 
 with nearly half a pint of water, or a few spoonfuls of 
 gravy. Set it over a slow fire, and stir it nearly all the 
 time, or it will stick to the bottom ; add a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, some pepper, and a pint of good beef- 
 gravy ; continue to simmer till it be well flavoured with 
 the herbs; strain off the gravy ; keep it for improving 
 rich gravies and sauces of all description. 
 
 Eee Sauce.—Put three or four eggs into boiling 
 water, and boil them from twelve to fifteen minutes— 
 fifteen minutes is the better time. Put them into cold 
 
150 SAUCES. 
 
 water till they are quite cold. This makes the yolks 
 firmer, and prevents their surface turning black. Use 
 only two of the whites, and cut them into small dice, 
 and all the yolks into a quarter of an inch square. Put 
 them into a sauce-boat, and pour on them about half a 
 pint of melted pabeer and stir the whole together. 
 The melted butter for egg sauce must not be made 
 too thick, though it should be made rich. You may 
 pound a couple of yolks, and rub them into the ee 
 to thicken it: Serve thoroughly hot. 
 
 Green Savuce.—Bruise green spinach or sorrel in a 
 marble mortar, and strain the juice through a cloth or 
 coarse sieve ; add a little lump sugar, and to the spinach- 
 juice some vinegar, or, instead, the pulp of stewed 
 gooseberries; put in a bit of bitter, and simmer the 
 whole for about five minutes: shake all well toge- 
 ther. 
 
 N.B.—This is sometimes served up with young ducks 
 or green geese. You will want neither gooseberries nor 
 vinegar if you use sorrel; but to give it some consist- 
 ency, it may be necessary to add a little flour to the 
 butter. 
 
 Lemon Savuce.—Cut thin slices of lemon into very 
 small dice, and put them into melted butter; give it one 
 boil, and pour it over boiled fowls, or send it to table in 
 a sauce-tureen. 
 
 Fisn Sauce witnout Burrer.—Simmer very gently 
 a quarter of a pint of vinegar and half a pint of water 
 (which must not be hard), with an onion, half a hand- 
 ful of horse-radish, and the following spices lightly 
 bruised: Four eves two blades of mace, and half a 
 tea-spoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite 
 tender, chop it small with two anchovies, and set the 
 whole on the fire to boil fora few minutes, with a spoon- 
 ful of ketchup. In the mean time, have ready, and 
 well-beaten, the yolks of three fresh eggs; strain them, 
 mix the liquor by degrees with them, and when well 
 mixed, set the sauce-pan over a gentle fire, keepmg a 
 basin in one hand, into which toss the sauce to and fro, 
 
 
 
SAUCES. 151 
 
 and shake the sauce-pan over the fire, that the eggs 
 may not curdle. Don’t boil them, only let the sauce be 
 hot enough to give it the thickness of melted butter. 
 | Tue Otp Currant Satce ror Ventson.—Boil an 
 ounce of dried currants, in half a pint of water, a few 
 minutes; then add a small tea-cupful of bread-crumbs, 
 six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a bit of butter. 
 Stir it till the whole is smooth. 
 
 TomaTa, on Love-Aprte Sauce.—Have twelve or 
 fifteen tomatas ripe and red, take off the stalk, cut them 
 in half, crush them just enough to get all the water and 
 seeds out; put them in a stew-pan, with two or three 
 table-spoonfuls of -beef-gravy, or a few small bits of 
 lean ham; set them on a slow stove for an hour, or till 
 properly melted; then rub them through a tammy into 
 a clean stew-pan, with a little white pepper and salt, 
 and let them simmer together a few minutes. 
 
 N.B.—To the above, the French cook adds a dozen 
 small button mushrooms, an onion or shalot, a clove 
 or two, or a little Tarragon vinegar. 
 
 Tomata Sauce (Another way).—Take the tomatas 
 when quite ripe, bake them till very tender, strain them, 
 and rub them through a fine sieve. To every three 
 pounds of pulp put a pint of Chili vinegar, a very small 
 quantity of garlic-and shalot sliced, half an ounce of 
 white pepper sifted (or if it be for an Indian palate, a 
 good pinch of Cayenne), half an ounce of salt; boil the 
 whole together till every ingredient be tender, then rub 
 it through a sieve. ‘To every pound add the juice of 
 three lemons, boil the whole together till it becomes as 
 thick as cream; bottle it when quite cold, cork it well, 
 and tie a bladder over it. Keep it in a cool place. 
 
 Tomata Sauce (Another way).—Cut ten or twelve 
 tomatas into quarters; put them into a stew-pan with 
 four or five onions cut into slices, a pinch of parsley, a 
 little thyme, a clove, and a quarter of a pound of butter; 
 boil the whole together, taking care that it does not 
 stick to the stew-pan, for three-quarters of an hour: 
 
 ee 
 
152 SAUCES. 
 
 strain your sauce through a hair-sieve ; take care that 
 it is properly seasoned with salt. 
 
 This sauce is good with meat, fish, and vegetables, 
 
 Sauce ror Wiip-Duck or Trau.—Take half the 
 rind of a Seville orange, pared very thin, with some thin 
 parings of lemon-rind; add to it a glass of port, a des- 
 sert-spoonful of mustard, a very small bit of sugar, the 
 size of a nut, the Juice of half a lemon, a table-spoon- 
 ful of Seville orange-juice, a little glaze and Cayenne, 
 two table-spoonfuls of rich gravy or Espagnole (see 
 Espagnole, French Cookery), boil together for ten mi- 
 nutes, strain and serve quite hot. This sauce should be 
 kept thin. 
 
 Sauce ror Wiip-Duck or Wip-Grxse.—Take of 
 Cayenne pepper, from a salt to a dessert-spoon, add the 
 piece of half a lemon, a glass of claret or port, a glass 
 of ketchup, or any other sauce according to the taste. 
 To be warmed before you pour it over the duck, or sent 
 up in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Breap Savucre.—Put a small tea-cupful of bread 
 crumbs into a stew-pan, pour on it as much new milk 
 as it will soak up, and a little more, or instead of the 
 milk, take the giblets, head, neck, and legs of the poul- 
 try, &c., and stew them, and moisten the bread with 
 this liquor; put it on the fire with a middling-sized 
 onion, and a dozen berries of pepper, or allspice, or a 
 little mace; let it boil, then stir it well, and let it sim- 
 mer till it is quite stiff, and then put to it about two 
 table-spoonfuls of cream, and about an ounce of pepper, 
 melted butter, or a little good broth ; take out the onion 
 and pepper, and it is ready. This sauce ought to be 
 stewed constantly, and to be served quite smooth. 
 
 Breap Sauce (Another way).—Take the crumb of 
 a stale roll, about a teacupful, add as much milk as it 
 will soak up and a little more, let it simmer three quar- 
 ters of an hour, till it has the consistence of a thick 
 bouillie, add a middle-sized mild onion, and from twelve 
 to twenty berries of pepper, allspice, or a little mace 
 
 
 
SAUCES, 15 
 
 and salt, with the size of a walnut of fresh butter in- 
 stead of the milk, take the giblets, head, neck, &c., of 
 the poultry or game, stew and moisten the bread with 
 this liquor; let it boil, then stir well, and let it simmer 
 till quite stiff, then put to it about two table-spoonfuls 
 of cream, or melted butter, or a little broth. Take out 
 the onion and pepper before serving. This is an excel- 
 lent sauce for white game or poultry. 
 
 Sauce For Fisu-Pirs.—Take a gill or quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar, and the same quantity of white wine, 
 oyster liquor, and ketchup, boil these with two ancho- 
 vies, and when done strain them, and pour them into 
 the pie after it is baked. 
 
 OysTER Sauce ror Fow. or Turkry.—Take two 
 dozen or more oysters, and take care to preserve all the 
 liquor when you open them. Put them into a small 
 stew-pan with the liquor, and add to it a spoonful of 
 water; heat them slowly, and keep them for a couple of 
 minutes, simmering, but when the liquor boils the oys- 
 ters are done; stir them with a spoon, and put them to 
 drain in a hair-sieve as you take them from the stew- 
 pan with a spoon; let the liquor settle, and pour it off 
 clear into another vessel; beard the oysters, and wash 
 them again in the liquor, in order to remove all grit 
 and sand; then put a pound of fresh butter into a 
 stew-pan, with a spoonful or two of very fine flour; 
 when the flour is fried a little, moisten with the oyster 
 liquor, and a pint of cream; let this boil fifteen minutes, 
 and add to it two spoonfuls of béchamel, stirring it all 
 the while; if you have not béchamel, put a small bit 
 of glaze, or portable soup, well seasoned. Mind, this 
 has no essence of anchovies, as for fish: it is the only 
 difference. Mask the fowl with this sauce. It should 
 be of the consistency of double cream. 
 
 SEASONING FoR Goosr.—Chop very fine about three 
 or four onions, about an ounce of undried sage-leaves, 
 a cupful of bread crumbs, a bit of butter, and a little 
 pepper and salt. Some add half the liver parboiled, and 
 
 the yolk of one or two eggs. Stuff your goose with 
 
154 SAUCES. 
 
 this, taking care that you do not quite fill the inside, to 
 allow the stuffing to swell. Some cooks stuff only fists 
 apples pared and cored; first parboiled, others with 
 whole, or mashed potatoes, well seasoned with pepper 
 and salt; adding a little sage and onions if approved. 
 
 Sauce FoR GREEN Goose.—Take half a pint of sor- 
 rel juice, half a pint of white wine, and some scalded 
 gooseberries, to which add a sufficiency of sugar and 
 butter; let the whole boil up. 
 
 GREEN, orn Sorret Savce.—Wash and clean three 
 ot four handfuls of eorr el, put them into a stew-pan that 
 will just hold it, with a bit of butter the size of an egg, 
 cover it close, set it over a slow fire for a quarter of an 
 hour, pass the sorrel with the back of a wooden spoon 
 through a hair-sieve, season with pepper, salt, and a 
 small pinch of powdered sugar, make it hot, and serve 
 up under lamb, veal, sweetbreads, &c. Cayenne, nut- 
 meg, and lemon-juice, are sometimes added to it to suit 
 East Indian, West Indian, and English palates. 
 
 For Cretery Sauce when Celery is not in Season. 
 —A quarter of a drachm of celery-seed, or a little 
 essence of celery will impregnate half a pint of sauce 
 with a sufficient portion of the flavour of the vegetable. 
 
 CELERY SAUCE FoR BOILED Fowis anp TURKEYS. 
 —Take a head of celery, wash and pare it very clean 5 
 eut it into little thin bits, about two inches long, sd 
 boil it softly in a little milk and water till it is quite 
 tender; then add a little beaten mace, some pepper and 
 salt, and a little grated nutmeg; thicken it with a good 
 piece of butter, rolled in flour, chop it and boil it up with 
 some white gravy for the dish, pour some of it into the 
 dish, and put the remainder in a sauce-tureen. You 
 may add two spoonfuls of cream and a little glaze. 
 
 Brown Ceiery Sauce.—Take the celery as above; 
 then add mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a piece of butter, 
 rolled in flour, with a glass of red wine, a spoonful of 
 ketchup, and half a pint of good gravy ; boil all these 
 together, and pour it into the dish. 
 
 SHALOT SaucE, FOR BOILED Murron.—Boil three 
 

 
 SAUCES. 155 
 
 or six shalots, changing the water twice, then take two 
 spoonfuls of the liquor the mutton is boiled in, two 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, cut the shalots fine, mix them 
 with a little salt; put them into a sauce-pan with a bit of 
 butter, the size of a walnut, rolled in flour, with a white 
 gravy; stir all together, and give it a boil. It is a good 
 sauce for boiled mutton. 
 
 Mint Saucre.—Take young mint, pick and wash it 
 clean ; chop it fine, put it into a sauce-tureen, with sugar 
 and vinegar to your taste. 
 
 Waite Suarp Savuce.—Boil with a little Tarragon, 
 or common vinegar, if the Tarragon is not to be had, 
 four table-spoonfuls of white wine vinegar, and about 
 twenty pepper-corns, reduce this one-fourth, and add it to 
 six table-spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two of good 
 stock; boil and strain it; put it again on the fire, and 
 thicken it with the beaten yolks of two eggs, a small bit 
 of butter, a little salt and Cayenne. Just before serv- 
 ing stir in a little cream. 
 
 Green Mint Savuce.—Pick and wash a handful of 
 green mint, fresh and young, add, when minced very 
 fine, a table-spoonful of the leaves, when taken from 
 the stalks; put them into the sauce-boat with four 
 spoonfuls of vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar. 
 This sauce is used with hot or cold lamb. 
 
 If green mint cannot be procured, it may be made 
 with mint vinegar. 
 
 SAUCE FOR COLD Fow. or Partripcre.—Rub down 
 in a mortar the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, an an- 
 chovy, two dessert-spoonfuls of oil, three of vinegar, 
 a shalot, Cayenne if approved, and a tea-spoonful of 
 mustard. All should be pounded before the oil is 
 added ; then strain it. Shalot-vinegar instead of shalot, 
 relishes well. 
 
 A Fine MusHroom Satvcer ror Fowts or Ras- 
 pits.— Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms, and 
 rub them with salt to take off the tender skin; put 
 them into a sauce-pan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a 
 
156 SAUCES, 
 
 blade of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of but- 
 ter rubbed in flour; boil them up, and stir them till 
 done; then pour it round the chickens, &e, Garnish 
 with lemon. | 
 
 If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones 
 done white, with a little mushroom-powder with the 
 cream, &c, 
 
 _ FENNEL AND GOOSEBERRY SatcE. — Take young 
 fennel, strip it from the stems, and wash it clean, cut it 
 very small; put it into a stew-pan with a little butter, 
 and a dust of flour; season it with pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg, moisten with a little gravy or water; your 
 sauce being thickened, throw in some gooseberries 
 blanched. Let it be of good taste. This sauce answers 
 well for mackarel, 
 
 Sack AND ONION, OR GOOSE-STUFFING SAUCE.— 
 Chop very fine, half an ounce of green sage-leaves, and 
 an ounce of onion, put them into a stew-pan with four 
 spoonfuls of water, simmer gently for ten minutes, then 
 ‘put in a tea-spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce 
 of fine bread crumbs, mix well together ; then pour to it 
 a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or an ounce of 
 fresh butter; stir well together, and simmer it a few 
 minutes longer. If you want a liaison, the whole may 
 be bound with the yolk of one or two eggs. 
 
 Ham Sauce.—When a ham is almost done with, 
 pick all the meat clean from the bone, leaving out any 
 rusty part; beat the meat and the bone to a mash with 
 a rolling-pin ; put it into a sauce-pan with three spoon- — 
 fuls of gravy; set it over a slow fire, and stirit all the 
 time, or it will stick to the bottom. When it has been 
 on some time, put to it a small bundle of sweet herbs, 
 some pepper, and half a pint of beef-gravy; cover it up, 
 and let it stew over a gentle fire. When it has a good 
 flavour of the herbs, strain off the gravy. A little of 
 this is an improvement to all gravies. 
 
 SwEET SAUCES, FOR EITHER HARE OR VENISON.— 
 Currant-jelly warmed, or half a pint of red wine, with a 
 

 
 SAUCES. 157 
 
 quarter of a pound of sugar simmered over a clear fire 
 for five or six minutes; or half a pint of vinegar, and a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar simmered till it is a syrup. 
 
 TRUFFLE SAUCE.—Cut a truffle into small dices; do 
 them in butter, moisten them with four skimming 
 spoonfuls of velouté, and two of consommé ; reduce it, 
 skim, and finish it with a pat of butter. 
 
 Rice Savucr.—Steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a 
 pint of milk, with onion, pepper, &c., as for bread sauce, 
 when the rice is quite tender (take out the spice), rub it 
 through a sieve into a clean stew-pan, if too thick, put a 
 little milk or cream to it. This is a very delicate white 
 sauce, and served up for poultry and game. 
 
 Musnroom Savuce.—Mix a good piece of butter with 
 a little flour; boil it up im some cream, shaking the 
 sauce-pan; throw in some mushrooms, a little salt and 
 nutmeg; boil it up. 
 
 Or put the mushrooms into melted butter, with a 
 little veal gravy, some salt, and grated nutmeg. 
 
 To met? Burrer witH Cream.—Melt half a pound 
 of butter, well broken in a glassful of cream; stir it con- 
 stantly. Use it for lobster or oyster sauces. 
 
 ParsLEY AND ButrEer.— Wash clean, a good bunch 
 of parsley, pick it carefully, leaf by leaf; put a tea- 
 spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling water; boil it 
 for ten minutes; drain on a sieve; mince it quite fine, 
 and then bruise it toa pulp. Put into asauce-boat, and 
 mix with it by degrees half a pint of melted butter, with 
 less flour in it, as the parsley will add to its thickness. 
 
 Chervil, Basil, Tarragon, Burnet, Cress, Fennel, and 
 butter, may all be made as directed for parsley and 
 butter. 
 
 MerHop OF PREPARING SALAD SAuce.—Take four 
 eggs (the yolks) boiled hard, rub them in a mortar till 
 they are very smooth, then add one table-spoonful of 
 ready-made mustard, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, then, by 
 slow degrees, a small flask of the finest salad oil; after 
 which add vinegar according to taste. To those who 
 are fond of Tarragon, it is a great addition to the flavour, 
 
158 SAUCES; 
 
 or shalot vinegar. After it is done, pass or not through 
 a very fine hair sieve. 
 
 N.B. Less oil may be used. 
 
 Logpster Savuce.— Take the meat from the hen tob- 
 ster and break it ito pieces, pound the spawn with a 
 piece of butter as large as a walnut, and rub it through 
 a sieve, boil up the shells, which saata be broken up, in 
 half a pint. of water or veal broth, with a little ground 
 allspice, or broken mace, and whole pepper, and a small 
 portion of horse-radish scraped into it; let this boil until 
 all the strength of the ingredients is thoroughly extracted; 
 then strain off the liquor, and put it with the lobster into 
 a stew-pan; add half a pound of cream, or the same 
 quantity of thick melted butter, a small spoonful of 
 anchovy sauce, and a squeeze of lemon, adding’ the 
 pounded spawn. Stir it about and let it simmer gently 
 for five minutes, but be carefulit does not boil. Season 
 with Cayenne pepper and salt while the stewing is going 
 on, and serve it in the sauce boats. 
 
 CockLE SaucE.—Mix a good-sized piece of butter in 
 plenty of flour, and melt it with some of the liquor of 
 the cockles, and a little vinegar, then throw in the 
 cockles, shake them about a minute, then serve it up in 
 boats.. This is a good sauce with cod-fish or haddock. 
 
 PARSLEY AND Butter (Another way).—Having 
 chopped your parsley fine, boil it in the water or broth 
 in which you melt your butter. By the time the latter 
 is melted the parsley will be sufficiently done. This is 
 a good sauce with salmon, haddock, brill, plaice, or 
 boiled Dover sole. In Ireland and Scotland salmon is 
 generally served with parsley and butter sauce. 
 
 Finney Sauce (Another way).—Boil the fennel in 
 the same water in which you boil your fish, and when it 
 becomes tender take it up, chop it fine, and. mix it with 
 plain melted butter. This is a sauce often served with 
 salmon in the west of England and Cornwall. 
 
 Surimp Savuce.—Shell a pint of fresh shrimps, pick 
 them clean; wash, and put them into half a pint of 
 good melted butter; a little lemon pickle and vinegar 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 SAUCES. 159 
 
 may be added; but the flavour of the shrimp is too de- 
 licate to have any addition. The heads and shells, with 
 or without a little mace, may be stewed for ten or fifteen 
 minutes, and the liquor strained off to melt the butter 
 with. 
 
 _ AncHovy Savuce.—Chop one or two anchovies with- 
 out washing, put them to some flour and butter, and 
 a little drop of water; stir it over the fire till it boils 
 once or twice. When the anchovies are good, they will 
 be dissolved; and the colour will be better than by the 
 usual way. 
 
 Sauces For A Pic.—There are several ways of 
 making sauce for a pig. Some do not like sage, only a 
 crust of bread, but then you should have a little dried 
 sage rubbed and mixed with the gravy and butter. 
 Some like bread sauce in a basin, made thus :—take a 
 pint of water, put in a good piece of crumb of bread, a 
 blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil it about 
 ’ five or six minutes, then pour the water off, take out the 
 spice, and beat up the bread with a good piece of 
 butter. Some like a few currants boiled in it, a glass of 
 wine, and a little sugar. Others take half a pint of 
 beef gravy, and the gravy which comes out of the pig, 
 with a piece of butter rolled in flour, two spoonfuls of 
 ketchup, and boil them all together, then they take the 
 brains of the pig, and bruise them fine, and they put 
 these with the sage in the pig, and pour it in the dish. 
 When you have not gravy enough with the butter for 
 sauce, take half a pint of veal gravy, and add to it; or 
 stew pettitoes, and take as’ much of that liquor as will 
 do for sauce mixed with the other. 
 
 Oyster Sauce.—Take half a pint of oysters, and 
 simmer them till they are plump, strain the liquor from 
 them through a sieve, wash the oysters clean and beard 
 them; put them in a stew-pan, and pour the liquor over, 
 but mind you do not pour the sediment with the liquor; 
 add a blade of mace, a quarter of a lemon, a spoonful 
 of anchovy-liquor and a little bit of horse-radish; also, a 
 little butter rolled in flour, half a pound of butter melted, 
 
160 SAUCES. 
 
 and boil it up gently for ten minutes. Now take out 
 the horse-radish, the mace, and lemon, squeeze the juice 
 of the lemon in the sauce, toss it up a little, then put it 
 into the boats or basins. 
 
 SAUCE FOR COLD Fown or GAME.— Pound the yolks. 
 of three eggs boiled hard, two anchovies, one table- 
 spoonful of oil, four of good vinegar, two shalots, and a 
 small quantity of mustard. | 
 
 Sauce ror Hare.—-Put a pint of cream and half a. 
 pound of fresh butter in a sauce-pan, and keep stirring it 
 with a spoon till the butter is melted, and the sauce is 
 thick; then take up the hare, and pour the sauce in a 
 dish, Another way to make sauce for a hare is, to make 
 good gravy, thickened with a little butter rolled in flour, 
 and pour it in the dish. Leave the butter out if you do 
 not like it, and have currant-jelly warmed in a cup, or 
 red wine and sugar boiled to a syrup, done thus—take 
 half a pint of red wine, a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 and set them over a slow fire to simmer for a quarter of 
 an hour. You may do half the quantity, and put it in 
 a sauce-boat or basin. 
 
 SAuCcE FoR VENISON.—Use either of these sauces for 
 
 venison: currant jelly warmed; or half a pint of red. 
 
 wine, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered over a 
 clear fire for five or six minutes; or half a pint of vine- 
 gar, and a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered to 
 syrup. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE, or FrencH MevtTep BuTtTEr.—Put 
 into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
 spoonful of flour, a little salt, half a gill or glass of 
 water, half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Put it on the fire, let it thicken, but 
 do not allow it to boil, or else it will taste of the flour. 
 
 We insert this among the English sauces, as it is now 
 nationalized in England at all good tables. We hope it 
 may be soon introduced at the tables of the smaller 
 shop-keepers, the tradesman, and working man. 
 
 _ Mettep Burrer.—Cut two ounces of butter into 
 little bits, that it may melt more easily, and mix more 
 
 
 
 eh ee et ee 
 
 
 
 | 
 
SAUCES. 161 
 
 readily ; put it into the stew-pan with a large tea-spoon- 
 ful of flour, and two table-spoonfuls of milk. When 
 thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls of water; 
 hold it over the fire, and shake it round every minute 
 (all the same way) till it just begins to simmer, then let 
 it stand quietly and boil up. It should be of the thick- 
 ness of good cream. ; 
 
 N.B.—If the butter oils, put a spoonful of cold water 
 to it, and stir it with a spoon; if it is very much oiled, 
 it must be poured backwards and forwards from the 
 stew-pan to the sauce-boat, till it is right again. 
 
 OBSERVE.— Keep a pint stew-pan for this only. 
 
 Sauce For Bomwrep Turxey.—Take sixteen large 
 picked chesnuts of best quality, boil slowly in water, so 
 that they may not burst; dry them carefully before a 
 fire, or in an oven, without allowing them to burn, re- 
 move their skins, and pound the nuts to a fine powder 
 in a stone-mortar. Take two or three table-spoonfuls of 
 cream, flavour it to your taste with nutmeg, white pepper, 
 salt, and a few grains of red pepper. Thoroughly mix 
 the chesnuts in this, and immediately add it to two gills 
 of sweet milk in a full state of ebullition. Put over the 
 boiled turkey and serve up. This sauce, though simple, 
 is very savoury. 
 
 Carer Sauce.—Take a table-spoonful of capers, and 
 two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, mince one-third of them 
 very fine, and divide the others in half; put them into 
 a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened 
 gravy; stir them the same way you did the melted but- 
 ter, or it will oil. ; 
 
 N.B.—A few leaves of parsley, chervil, Tarragon, or 
 the juice of half a lemon or orange may be added; a 
 little sugar pounded is an improvement; and do not use 
 any of the caper liquor. Keep your caper-bottle well 
 corked. ; 
 
 Sauce For Boren Murron.—Slice and cut into 
 dice some lemon, with some mustard and vinegar, into 
 melted butter or capers crushed, and put into melted 
 
 M 
 
162 SAUCES. 
 
 butter, adding a little vinegar to the capers after they 
 have been bruised. 
 
 Caper SAUCE FoR Fisu.—Take some melted butter, 
 into which throw a small bit of glaze, and when the 
 sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it some choice 
 capers, salt, and pepper, and a spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies. : 
 
 Grit, Sauce.—To half a pint of gravy, add an 
 ounce of fresh butter and a table-spoonful of flour, pre- 
 viously well rubbed together, the same of mushroom or 
 walnut-ketchup, two tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice, one 
 of made mustard, one of minced capers, half a one of 
 black pepper, a quarter of a rind of a lemon, grated 
 very thin, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and a 
 little shalot wine, or a very small piece of minced 
 eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar, or a few grains of 
 Cayenne; simmer together for a few minutes, and pour 
 a little of it over the grill, and send up the rest in a 
 sauce-tureen. 
 
 SHALOT SAvcE FoR Bortep Murron.—Mince four 
 shalots very fine, and put them into a small sauce- 
 pan, with almost half a pint of the liquor the mutton 
 was boiled in; let them boil up for five minutes, then 
 put in a table-spoonful of vinegar, a quarter tea-spoon- 
 ful of pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter (as big as 
 a walnut) rolled in flour; shake together till it boils. 
 
 N.B.—A little finely-chopped parsley, or a little 
 lemon-peel may be added. 
 
 SHator Sauce.— Take four shalots, and make it in 
 the same manner as garlic-sauce. See postea. 
 
 Garuic Sauce.—Pound two cloves of garlic with a 
 piece of fresh butter about as big as a nutmeg, rub it 
 through a double hair-sieve, and stir it into half a pint 
 of melted butter or beef-gravy, or make it with garlic 
 vinegar. , 
 
 Sauce For FisH.—One tea-cup of water, one an- 
 chovy, a little mace, peppercorns, and a piece of onion; 
 boil these five minutes, strain it, and melt with it a suffi- 
 
 
 

 
 SAUCES. 1638 
 
 ecient quantity of butter, and one spoonful of gravy, and 
 one ditto of white wine, for all fish but salmon and fried 
 eels—for them port wine. 
 
 Cream Sauce ror Hare.—Baste the hare with 
 boiled milk until about half done enough, then take the 
 milk from the dripping-pan, and add a pint of cream, 
 thickened with a little four and butter boiled ; then put 
 the liver, boiled in water, through a tammy, and add it 
 to the cream. There should be about two tea-cupfuls 
 of milk in the dripping-pan. 
 
 WorpswortH Sauce.—One ounce of sugar candy, 
 pounded very fine; one ounce of Cayenne; one-half gill of 
 soy; one-half gill of mushroom ketchup; six cloves, 
 pounded fine; six anchovies, pounded fine; six shalots, 
 pounded fine; one quart of vinegar. Mix the whole 
 together, and shake it up occasionally, and in ten days 
 it will be fit for use. 
 
 Cretery Sauce Purtn, for boiled Turkey, Veal, 
 Fowls, §e.—Cut small half a dozen heads of nice white 
 celery that is quite clean, and two onions sliced ; put in 
 a two-quart stew-pan, with a small lump of butter, sweat 
 them over a slow fire till quite tender, then put in two 
 spoonfuls of flour, half a pint of water (or beef or veal 
 broth), salt and pepper, and a little cream or milk ; boil 
 it a quarter of an hour, and pass through a fine hair- 
 sieve with the back of a spoon. 
 
 Pinpar Sauce.—One pound of anchovies, half a 
 pint of anchovy liquor, eight lemons, quarter of an 
 ounce of cloves, quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve 
 peppercorns, a few shalots, a handful of scraped horse- 
 radish, one bottle of port wine, ditto of mountain. Boil 
 the above ingredients twenty minutes, then strain off 
 
 and put into bottles well corked. 
 Let your butter be melted very thick, then put in as 
 much of the essence as is agreeable to your palate. Be- 
 fore using, shake the bottle well. 
 
 Sauce A LA WauesBy, Deputy-Assistant Judge 
 of Middlesex Sessions, Recorder of Woodstock, &c. &c. 
 —One quart of vinegar, one ounce of Cayenne pepper, 
 
 M 2 
 
164 SAUCES. 
 
 four table-spoonfuls of soy, ditto of walnut-ketchup, six 
 cloves, six shalots well bruised, a little garlic, and a few 
 chillies will improve. | 
 
 HorsE-rapisH Sauce. — Grate a stick of horse- 
 radish, put it into a mortar, and bruise it well, with a 
 small spoonful of mustard, one of white sugar, one of 
 vinegar, then mix it well together with a quarter of a 
 pint of cream. 
 
 Lozgster Sauce (Another way).—A fresh hen lalis 
 ster boiled ten minutes, the white meat cut in pieces, the 
 spawn well pounded, and mixed with half a pound of 
 fresh butter, three large spoonfuls of essence of an- 
 chovies, a little Cayenne pepper, the juice of a lemon, a 
 gill of cream, and a gill of thick four and water. Let 
 the whole boil five minutes, keeping it stirred. | 
 
 LozssTer Sauce (Another way).—Melt some butter 
 in a little milk, with a little flour and a bit of lemon- 
 peel in it; then add some cream, take out the lemon- 
 peel and put in the lobster cut into small pieces, with a 
 little of the spawn; simmer all copes about ten: mi- 
 nutes. 
 
 Shrimp sauce may be made in the same Bede te the 
 shrimps put into plain melted butter. 
 
 LopsTteR Sauce (Another method of inepeniseuee 
 Choose a fine hen lobster (let it be heavy), pick out the 
 spawn and red coral and put it into a mortar, with half 
 an ounce of butter, pound it quite smooth, and rub 
 through a hair sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; 
 cut the meat of the lobster into small pieces, or pull it 
 to pieces with a fork; put the pounded spawn into as 
 much melted butter as you think will do, and stir it till it 
 is thoroughly mixed; then put the meat to it, and warm 
 it on the fire. Take care it does not boil, which would 
 spoil the colour. 
 
 To MAKE Oystrr Savuce.—Take a pint of oysters 
 that are tolerably large, put them into a sauce-pan with 
 their own liquor strained, a blade of mace, a little whole 
 pepper, and a bit of lemon-peel; let them stew over the 
 fire till the oysters are plump; pour them into a pan, 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 SAUCES. 165 
 
 and wash them carefully one by one out of the liquor; 
 strain the liquor through a sieve, and add the same 
 quantity of good gravy; cut some butter into pieces, 
 roll it im flour, and put it to the oysters; set it over the 
 fire, shake it round often till it boils, and add a spoon- 
 ful of white wine ; let it just boil, then pour it into 
 tureens. 
 
 Surerior Oyster Saucr.—Be careful in opening 
 the oysters to preserve the liquor; put them into a stew- 
 pan over a stove on a sharp fire; when they are quite 
 white and firm, take them out of the water with a spoon, 
 and drain them on a hair sieve; then pour off the liquor 
 gently into another vessel, in order to have it quite clear. 
 Put a small bit of fresh butter into a stew-pan, with a 
 spoonful of flour, fry it over a small fire for a few mi- 
 nutes, dilute it with the oyster liquor, add to it two 
 spoonfuls of cream, let it boil till the flour is quite done, 
 then add the oysters, after having taken off the beards. 
 Season with a little salt, and one spoonful of essence of 
 anchovies. If the oyster sauce is to serve with fowl, do 
 not put anchovies in it, but add three or four spoonfuls 
 of good béchamelle. 
 
 RecrirT FoR PRovencaLe.—Take the yolks of two 
 eggs, pour in oil very gently, taking care always to stir 
 it the same way, or the sauce will be spoiled; the oil 
 must be very gradually added, or the sauce will curdle; 
 the more oil is added, the thicker the sauce will be. 
 When sufficient quantity is made, add vinegar, salt, 
 pepper, chopped parsley, shalot, and a small quantity of 
 garlic. When done, take the quantity of salad, and 
 cold roast er boiled fowl, game, or turkey, cut up in 
 small pieces, pour the sauce over it, and stir as you would 
 a salad. 
 
 Sauce SupERLATIVE.— Claret or port wine, and 
 mushroom ketchup, a pint of each; half a pint of walnut 
 or other pickled liquor; pounded anchovies, four ounces; 
 fresh lemon peel, pared very thin, an ounce; pickled 
 and sliced shalots, the same; scraped horse-radish, the 
 same; allspice and black pepper, powdered, (each) half 
 
166 SAUCES, 
 
 an ounce; cayenne, one drachm, or curry powder, three 
 drachms ; celery seed, bruised, a drachm. All avoir- 
 dupois weight. Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, 
 stop it close, shake it up every day for a fortnight, strain 
 it, and you will have a ‘‘ DELICIOUS DOUBLE RELISH.” 
 
 Reish ror Cuors.—Pound fine an ounce of black 
 pepper, and half an ounce of allspice, with an ounce of 
 salt, and half an ounce of scraped horse-radish, and the 
 same of shalots, peeled and quartered; put these in- 
 gtedients into a pint of mushroom ketchup, or walnut 
 pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, and then 
 strain it. 
 
 N.B.—A tea-spoonful or two of this is generally a an 
 acceptable addition for port wine drinkers, old Fellows 
 of colleges, &c., mixed with the gravy usually sent up 
 for chops and sical or added to thick melted better. 
 
 Saztap Sauce.—Take four yolks of eggs boiled hard, 
 rub them in a mortar till they are very smooth, then 
 add one table-spoonful of ready-made mustard, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of salt,—then by slow degrees a flask of the 
 finest salad oil ; ‘lastly, add vinegar according to taste. 
 To those who are fond of Tarragon, it is a great addition 
 to the flavour. After it is done, pass all through a very 
 fine hair sieve. 
 
 Wuire Sauce ror Finzers or MAckareu.—Rub a 
 quarter of a pound of butter with a table-spoonful of 
 flour ; put it into a stew-pan; when melted, and boiled 
 a little, add half a pint of water, and season it with salt 
 and white pepper to taste; boil ten minutes, then take 
 it off the fire, and when sufficiently off the boil, add a 
 _ thickening made with two yolks of eggs, beat up with 
 the juice of half a lemon, and a little nutmeg. 
 
 Cuervit Sauce.—Pick a large handful of chervil, 
 leaf by leaf; put it into a stew-pan with a spoonful of 
 the best stock, simmer it until the stew-pan becomes dry ; 
 then add as much coulis or gravy as is requisite, squeeze 
 a lemon,and put alittle sugar to make it palatable ; add 
 a little Madeira. 
 
 A Cunuis ror RAGOUTS AND ALL RICH SAUCES.— 
 
 
 
 
 
 F 
 [ 
 
 
 

 
 SAUCES. 167 
 
 Take two pounds of lean veal, two ounces of ham, two 
 cloves, a little nutmeg, a blade of mace, some parsley- 
 roots, two carrots, cut in pieces, some shalots, and two 
 bay-leaves, set these over a stove, or in a kettle of 
 boiling water in an earthen vessel; let them do very 
 gently for half an hour, closely covered, observing they 
 do not burn; put some beef broth to it; let it stew till it 
 is as rich as you wish it to be, then strain off. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAVIES, &c. 
 
 In English kitchens the ingredients for brown gra- 
 vies are usually fried, instead of which the French cook 
 reduces them with a little liquid to a glaze ; this requires 
 great care, as the liquid must be almost wholly evaporated, 
 but yet not burnt, when the proper colour is obtained, 
 it must be removed from the side of the stew-pan by 
 boiling broth being added to it; it may then stew 
 gently for four hours with a few mushrooms, a Spanish 
 onion, and alittle parsley. This glaze is a strong jelly of 
 a reddish brown colour. 
 
 A thickish slice of the leanest portion of an unboiled 
 highly cured or smoked ham, is a great improvement to 
 a rich soup or gravy. 
 
 The bones of undressed meat, if well boiled down, 
 supply an economical gravy. 
 
 _ In order to heighten the colour and flavour of gravies 
 a couple of ounces of ham may be placed with an ounce 
 of fresh butter, a blade of mace, two or three cloves, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, a shalot or two, and a very small 
 spoonful of bruised or minced onion, and be gradually 
 added to the common gravy or stock. 
 
 Observe, the common gravy or stock should be sim- 
 -mered to a heat, and the ingredients above-mentioned 
 be then added, and allow the whole to boil for twenty 
 minutes. . 
 
 Guisze.—This is a jelly reduced to the consistency of 
 cream ; it must be carefully managed, or it will burn 
 before brought to the proper point of perfection ; it must 
 not be left when an indication of thickening is seen, 
 
168 SAUCES. 
 
 which may be ascertained by dropping it from the 
 spoon, it should drop as preserves do; it should then be 
 poured out directly, or it will burn. When to be used, 
 ‘dissolve the glaze by placing the vessel which contains it 
 in hot water, it may then be put on the meat with a 
 brush ; when, if good, it will present the appearance of 
 a fine clear varnish. All stock which contains veal, 
 may be reduced to glaze. Salt should be used sparingly 
 at first, in consequence of the very great reduction the 
 stock undergoes. | 
 
 GRAVY MADE WITH Roots.—Cut some roots very 
 small, and cut into four onions proportioned to the 
 quantity of gravy you require. Put all with a little butter 
 into astew-pan, on a brisk fire, stir it now and then with 
 a wooden spoon. Your onions and roots being braized, 
 moisten them with peas broth; season with parsley, 
 chibbols, some cloves, a sprig of sweet basil, ‘a little 
 thyme, and mushrooms if you have them; let the liquor 
 stew slowly, and be relishing; when done, strain off, 
 and use it for all sorts of ragouts. 
 
 Brown Gravy For Lent.—Melt a piece of butter 
 about the size of an egg’, in a sauce-pan, shake in a little 
 flour, and brown it by degrees, stirin half a pint of water, 
 and half a pint of ale, or small beer which is not bitter, an 
 onion, a piece of lemon-peel, two cloves, a blade of 
 mace, some whole pepper, a spoonful of mushroom 
 pickle, a spoonful of ketchup, and an anchovy; boil alto- 
 gether a quarter of an hour, and strain it. It is an ex- 
 cellent sauce for various dishes. 
 
 Ece Sauce ror Sautr Cop.—Boil your eggs hard, 
 first half chop the whites, then put in the yolks, and 
 chop them both together, but not very small, put them 
 
 into half a pound of good melted butter, and let it boil . 
 
 up, then put it on the fish. ; 
 
 Lemon Savcz is prepared in various ways ; but this is 
 the most simple. Take a quarter of a pint of good veal 
 gravy, or, in its absence, simple water; thicken it by 
 boiling with a little flour, then add to it the juice of a 
 large lemon, and the outside peel pared very thin and 
 pounded into a paste, or minced very fine, or grated off 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
SAUCES. 169 
 
 the lemon. Simmer the whole together for a few 
 minutes. 
 
 A Savce oF SEVILLE ORANGES, or of any other 
 oranges, may be made, if required, exactly in the same 
 way. Some employ melted butter, others cream, in- 
 stead of gravy or water; others cut the lemon, freed 
 altogether from its rind, into small bits, and mix it with 
 the butter; but we disapprove of all these methods: 
 the last, without the rind, will have little or no taste 
 of the lemon. 
 
 FENNEL SAUCE is best and most easily made by boil- 
 ing sprigs of green fennel in water till they are tender, 
 chopping them fine, and then by mixing them with 
 melted butter. 
 
 Some make fennel sauce with equal parts of green 
 fennel, mint, and parsley, boiled till they are tender, 
 and then chopped fine and mixed with melted butter; 
 but this is a compound sauce which we do not recom- 
 mend, nor do we believe many will desire it. 
 
 HoRrsE-RADISH SAUCE is made in various ways: 
 some order it to be boiled in good gravy with other 
 condiments ; but if you desire it in its best state it 
 should not be boiled at all, but be mixed after being 
 grated fine (with the gravy or other liquid which you 
 choose to employ) in large quantity, so as to impart to 
 it the decided pungency for which this useful and 
 valuable condiment is known ; it may be made hot in 
 the gravy ; but we again repeat that it should on no 
 account be boiled ; and we advise, besides, that no other 
 condiments be mixed with this sauce, except perhaps a 
 little vinegar. 
 
 A Brown Onion Sauce may be made by braizing 
 finely sliced onions, with a small quantity of butter, in 
 a stew-pan till they become brown; add next some good 
 broth, and stew the onions in it twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes; to this you must add some pepper, salt, and 
 flour, to make the whole of a proper consistence ; strain 
 it through a coarse sieve. 
 - You will here have a much more pungent onion 
 sauce than the preceding. 
 
170 SAUCES. 
 
 Onton SAUCE is prepared many ways: like melted 
 butter, most cooks have a method of making onion 
 sauce of their own. The pungency of onions, leeks, 
 garlic, and others of the same genus of plants, rises 
 from a volatile essence which is dissipated by even a 
 moderate heat, and more especially by long boiling in 
 water. Onions, in their raw state, may be eaten by 
 many persons with impunity, while to others they are 
 extremely offensive, and produce when eaten consider- 
 able disturbance of the digestive functions. In pre- 
 paring onions, therefore, for sauce, as well as to be 
 otherwise eaten, it will be necessary for the cook to 
 know the taste and wishes of the master and mistress 
 of a family before she can know how to prepare onion 
 sauce that may be agreeable to them. 
 
 If the onion sauce be desired to contain a strong and 
 pungent taste of the onion, the onions may be boiled in 
 water, after being peeled and quartered, till they are 
 tender, then chopped fine upon a clean chopping-board, 
 and be returned again to the sauce-pan and water, to 
 which may be added some butter and a little four, and 
 simmered for ten or fifteen minutes, the whole being 
 thus, and also by beating with a wooden spoon, re- 
 duced to a smooth pulp. Some will prefer passing it 
 through a coarse hair sieve or colander: some, too, will 
 add cream to it. It must be seasoned with salt of 
 course. | 
 
 If, however, you desire a more mild onion sauce, you 
 must boil the onions for some time in two or three 
 different waters, throwing all the waters away, and 
 when the onions are tender, they must be chopped as 
 directed above, passed through a coarse hair sieve or 
 colander, and then be mixed with sufficient butter and 
 flour to render it, being seasoned with salt, at once 
 smooth and mild. The cook will, in general, find this 
 last method the best: for such sauce will be more 
 agreeable to most persons than the strong one made 
 according to our first directions. If desired, cream may 
 be added to it. 
 
 The most delicate sauce is made from the whitest 
 
 
 
 # 
 

 
 SAUCES. 171 
 
 onions ; some lay them in salt and water, after peeling 
 and quartering them, for about twenty minutes; but 
 there is no necessity for this previous marinade. 
 
 Some, in order to have the onion sauce whiter, will 
 boil the onions in milk and water instead of plain 
 water. 
 
 Sauce ror Licut Puppinecs.—Into a small stew- 
 pan put the yolks of three eggs, two ounces of pounded 
 sugar, a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon, the grated 
 rind of a lemon or orange, and two glasses of white 
 wine. Set the stew-pan in one somewhat larger con- 
 taining a little hot water, so as to form a shallow bath; 
 
 ut them on a moderate charcoal fire, and with a wire 
 whisk keep whipping the sauce till it becomes of a thick, 
 white, creamy substance, when it may be used as di- 
 rected. | 
 
 Currant Sauce.—Boil two ounces of dried currants 
 in a pint of water five minutes, first washing and drying 
 your currants well, then add the crumb of a penny roll, 
 a dozen cloves, a gill or quarter of a pint of port wine, 
 and some butter, stirring it till it becomes perfectly 
 smooth. 
 
 A Fruir Sauce.—Take a pound of fresh apricots, 
 cherries, currants, raspberries, plums, strawberries, or 
 damascenes, or a similar quantity of bottled fruit, boil 
 them with half a pound of sugar for ten minutes, then 
 rub them through a hair sieve or tammy, warm the sauce 
 in a small stew-pan, and send it, round the pudding or in. 
 a sauce-boat, to table. 
 
 Sauce For CaBINET Puppinc.—Take a large glass 
 of brandy, a gilass of sherry, a little sugar, a little nut- 
 meg grated, a quarter of a pound of butter and a little 
 flour, boil it, and pour it over the pudding. 
 
 Puppine Savucre.—Mix with half a pint of melted 
 butter, two wine glasses of sherry, and a table-spoonful 
 of loaf sugar, make it quite hot and serve in a sauce- 
 hoat, with grated nutmeg on the top. 
 
172 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON MEAT IN GENERAL. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Ox Brrr is considered the best; it is smoothly 
 grained, and of a carnation red. 
 
 Herrer Beer is excellent when finely fed, and is most 
 suitable to families. It is more closely grained, and of 
 lighter colour. The bones are smaller, and the fat 
 whiter. 
 
 When beef is to be kept any length of time, it should 
 be carefully wiped every day. In warm weather, wood 
 vinegar is a fine preservative. It should be put all over 
 the meat with a brush. To protect the meat from flies, 
 sprinkle it with pepper. Tainted meat may be restored 
 by washing in cold water, afterwards in strong camomile 
 tea, after which it may be sprinkled with salt, and used 
 the following day, first washing it in cold water. 
 Roughly powdered charcoal rubbed all over the meat, 
 also restores it when tainted. In summer, meat, in 
 in Scotland, is often kept a fortnight smothered in 
 oatmeal and wiped every day, and if it should be tainted, 
 it is soaked for some hours before used, in oatmeal and 
 
 water. 
 
 ’ Observe, the best beefsteaks are cut from the inside of 
 the sirloin, almost always used for the biftek in France. 
 
 This is the tenderest portion of the meat, though London 
 aldermen prefer the middle of the rump, the veiny 
 piece, or chuck rib. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 There are four kinds of mutton, the Southdown, the 
 Scotch, the Welsh, and the Dartmoor. The first is 
 good, and of fine flavour; the second is still better; 
 the third is of equal excellence with the second ; but all 
 
 
 
 OL re ee 
 

 
 ROASTING: 173 
 
 the others yield, in our estimation, to the Dartmoor. 
 The sheep supplying all but the first, are plump, and of 
 a small size; which seems to be the case with all mutton 
 in hilly countries. For mutton to be good, the sheep 
 ought not to be killed until it is from five to seven years 
 old, and the lean should be of a dark hue. Young mut- 
 ton is always soft, flabby, and unwholesome ; and the 
 test of excellence in this meat is, that it does not fly 
 from the knife when cut, but rather closes upon it. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Pork, when young and properly fed, is very healthy 
 and strengthening; the very reverse if ill and coarsely 
 fed. High flavoured pork is not known in this country; 
 when entirely fed upon rice it gets too delicate. The 
 best flavoured pork is that which is fed upon peas and 
 bran, and next to that on corn and bran. ‘The Irish 
 pork, fed upon grains and potatoes, is without flavour, 
 and the fat soft and flabby, instead of being a clear 
 amber colour, and horny and consistent. Much, no 
 doubt, depends upon the breed. Among the smaller 
 breeds of pig's, the Chinese and Neapolitan are the best; 
 and of the larger breeds, those which have the thickest 
 skin. Hampshire and Oxfordshire are famed for good 
 pork. The highest flavoured and best pork in Italy, 
 is fed upon Indian corn. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS ON ROASTING. 
 
 In roasting, make up a fire proportioned to the joint 
 to be roasted. Let the fire be free from ashes and 
 smoke in front, and so arrange the top that it will not 
 need fresh coals for some time after the meat is at the 
 fire. Keep the meat at a distance when first put down, 
 baste constantly, and draw it near the fire gradually as 
 it becomes nearly done, to brown; but be careful it is 
 not burned. 
 
174 ROASTING. 
 
 When you have occasion to stir the fire, always 
 remove the dripping-pan first, that no ashes may fall 
 into it. 7 See 
 
 A little butter or clarified dripping may be used at 
 first, to a very lean piece of meat; but avoid dripping 
 for poultry, as it imparts an (to many people) objec- 
 tionable flavour. 
 
 Roasting requires great attention rather than great 
 skill. It is a good way in roasting meat, to baste first 
 with a little salt and water, which put into the dripping- 
 pan, before using its own fat or dripping. Old meats do 
 not require so much dressing as young, because they can 
 be eaten with the more gravy in. ca 
 
 SrgLorn oF Beer.—A sirloin of beef, weighing about 
 fifteen pounds, will take from three and a half to four hours 
 toroast. Care should be taken to spit it firmly and evenly, 
 that it may not be heavier on one side than the other. 
 You should have a good clear fire for roasting. When put 
 down, your meat should not. be nearer than ten inches to 
 the fire, and gradually drawn closer. Put a little drip- 
 ping into your dripping-pan; tie a sheet of paper over 
 it to preserve the fat; baste it well as soon as put down, 
 and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, 
 till the last half hour, then take off the paper; ten mi- 
 nutes before serving, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste 
 with butter, and dredge with flour to froth it; dish it, 
 and garnish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 In cold weather meat requires longer roasting than in 
 warm, and if newly killed, than if it has been kept. 
 
 Riss or Breer.—The three first ribs of beef, of fif- 
 teen or twenty pounds, will take from three to four hours. 
 The fourth and fifth ribs will take as long, and done in 
 the same way as the sirloin. Paper the fat, and the 
 thin part, or it will be done too much, before the thick 
 part is sufficiently roasted. When it is drawn from the 
 spit, some gravy will run out, to which you may add a 
 little boiling salt and water poured along the bone of the 
 meat, or you may make a good browning with bits of 
 roast or boiled meat, cut up small and put into a basin, 
 
 
 

 
 ROASTING. 175 
 
 cover with boiling water, till the next day; then put it 
 into a sauce-pan, boil for two or three minutes, strain 
 through a sieve, and use when required. When you 
 want gravy for roast meat, put two table-spoonfuls into 
 half a pint of boiling-water with a little salt; if for 
 roasted veal, put three table-spoonfuls into half a pint of 
 thin melted butter. It is a general rule to allow a quar- 
 ter of an hour to each pound of meat for roasting. 
 
 A Fituet or Bezr.—Bone your ribs, weighing about 
 fifteen pounds; roll the meat tightly and firmly, and 
 skewer it; roast and garnish it in the same manner as a 
 sirloin. | 
 
 A Fruwet or VeaL.—From ten to fourteen pounds 
 will require from four to five hours. Make some stuf- 
 fing, or forcemeat, and put it under the flap, and firmly 
 skewer it. The fire should be clear and strong; the 
 meat should be, at first, placed at a distance from it, and 
 then draw it nearer to finish roasting it brown. When 
 first put down, baste it, and frequently afterwards; when 
 half roasted, see that the fat don’t burn, and baste often, 
 and to accomplish this operation, tie a piece of paper 
 over the fat; a little before serving, remove it, sprinkle 
 it with salt, dredge with flour, and well baste to froth it. 
 When dished, pour over it finely melted butter, add to 
 some melted butter a little brown gravy in the dish; 
 garnish with thin slices of cut lemon; some add cakes 
 or balls of stuffing. 
 
 All white meats should be well done. Ham, bacon, 
 pee or sausages, are generally served with veal, roast 
 or boil. 
 
 Lory or Veau.—A loin takes about three hours 
 roasting, and is basted, the kidney-fat and back covered 
 with paper, and served as a fillet. 
 
 Neck or Veau.—The best end of a neck of Veal will 
 take about two hours to roast. The same accompani- 
 ments as for fillet or loin. 
 
 Lorn, Caumr Enp, is roasted and served as a fillet 
 and loin. 
 
 A Hauncn or Morton, weighing fifteen pounds 
 
176 ROASTING. 
 
 requires three hours and a half of roasting. Send up 
 two sauce-boats with it; the one of rich mutton gravy, 
 without spice or herbs; and one of sweet sauce of cur- 
 rant jelly melted. Some send it without melting. | 
 
 This joint should be roasted at a brisk fire, and basted 
 as beef ; the fat covered with a piece of white paper: 
 before serving, a half sheet of paper, folded and fringed, 
 should be put round the shank-bone. 
 
 A CuInE or SAppLe or Murrow of ten or eleven 
 pounds will take about two hours and a half. The 
 skin should be taken off, and skewered on again to 
 prevent the meat from extreme heat, and preserve its 
 juice. Should this not be done, tie a sheet of paper 
 over it, and baste the strings directly, or they will burn. 
 A quarter of an hour before it is done, take off the skin 
 or paper, that the meat may get a nice colour, then 
 baste and flour it lightly to froth it. Serve currant jelly 
 sauce in a boat. This joimt possesses very delicate meat, 
 if carved in the proper way. , 
 
 A Lee or Murtron Roast.—Mutton for roasting 
 may be kept longer than mutton for boiling. The pipe, 
 which runs along the back-bone and taints early, should 
 be cut out. A leg of eight pounds will take about two 
 hours. Let it be well basted and frothed, as directed 
 for beef. Your fire must be a brisk and sharp one to 
 concentrate the juices; as beef must have a large and 
 sound one. | 
 
 This and every other piece of meat may be lightly 
 dusted with flour, or with pepper or pounded ginger, 
 which, by excluding the external air and keeping off flies, 
 helps to preserve the meat, and can be taken off in the 
 washing previous to roasting. 
 
 A leg of mutton shows its excellence when the sinews 
 are very small, and the back appears very brown ; it is 
 never in that state till it has attained three or four 
 years of age, and it should have that age to be in 
 perfection. 
 
 Roast SHoutpER or Murron.—A shoulder of seven 
 pounds, will take an hour and a half: serve with onion 
 
 
 

 
 ROASTING. 177 
 
 sauce. The blade-bone may be broiled. A small shoulder, 
 boned and stuffed, may be baked with a Yorkshire 
 pudding. 
 
 A Loin or Murron should be carefully jointed, and 
 roasted from an hour and a half to three quarters, if 
 weighing seven pounds, and is generally carved length- 
 ways. 
 
 Neon oF Mutron.—The best end of neck of mutton 
 may be roasted; and jointed previous to putting on the 
 
 it. 
 
 A Breast or Mourron may be parboiled, grilled, and 
 served with onion or caper sauce; or half-boiled and 
 grilled before the fire, in which case it should be covered 
 with crumbs and herbs, and served with caper sauce. 
 
 To roAsT HovusE-Lams.—House-lamb requires to be 
 well roasted ; and is in season from Christmas to Lady- 
 day. The lamb should be, above all things, young. 
 Any thing between lamb and mutton is coarse and abo- 
 minable. Lamb should not be long kept, if the flavour 
 and juices are to be obtained in perfection. A _hind- 
 quarter of eight pounds will require one hour and three 
 quarters to two hours; baste and froth it as for roast- 
 beef, and gravy the same. 
 
 ForE-QuaRTER oF LAms, weighing ten pounds, about 
 two hours. When you, or your cook, before it comes 
 up. take off the shoulder from the ribs, squeeze the juice 
 of a lemon or Seville orange over them, sprinkle also a 
 little salt. Mint sauce, served in a sauce-boat. If left 
 to be cold, chopped parsley should be sprinkled over it. 
 
 A CHINE oR SADDLE oF LaAmgp is to be roasted 
 according to its weight. You must have a quick fire ; 
 baste it well as soon as put down; butter, salt, and pep- 
 per it; dredge with flour, baste it to froth up. 
 
 Lec or Lams.—A leg weighing five pounds, from 
 one hour to one hour and a half to roast. 
 
 SHOULDER oF Lams.— One hour with a quick fire. 
 
 Lorn or Lams.—An hour and a quarter. 
 
 Neck or Lams.—One hour. 
 
 Breast.—Three quarters of an hour. 
 
 N 
 
178 ROASTING. 
 
 To Roast a Sucxrne Pic.—The pig should not be 
 more than three weeks old. The ends must have much 
 more fire than the middle; for this purpose, is contrived 
 an iron to hang before the middle part, called a pig-iron; 
 a common flat iron may be used; or keep your fire 
 fiercest at the ends. Roast it at a clear brisk one at 
 some distance. When you first put it down, rub it all 
 over with fresh butter or sweet oil; ten minutes after, 
 when the skin begins to look dry, dredge it well with 
 flour all over; let it remain on an hour, then rub it off 
 with a soft cloth. It will take from one hour and a 
 half to two hours, according to its size; baste it well 
 with salad oil until it is done. Fill the pig with a 
 stufing made of crumbs of bread, minced sage, an 
 onion or two, together with an egg, a little butter, 
 pepper, and salt. Observe in roasting the pig, to 
 skewer the legs back, so that the under part may be 
 crisp. When done, cut the head off, part it and the 
 body down the middle; chop the brains very fine, with 
 some finely minced boiled sage, with a little veal gravy, 
 or what runs from the head when cut off, and a little 
 melted butter. Some peel the tongue and chop it up 
 with the brains; put the whole into a stew-pan to warm. 
 Lay your pig back to back, with one-half the head at 
 each side, and the ears one at each end, which should be 
 erisp. When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin 
 long round the ends of the legs; put a little of the 
 sauce into the dish, and some in a sauce-boat. Currant 
 sauce is served also with this dish. 
 
 A sucking pig requires great attention in roasting. 
 Most persons have them baked ; send some butter to the 
 bakers with it, to baste it well. Prepare it as for roast- 
 ing. Observe, the pig should be singed and not scalded, 
 and the same practice should be observed in reference to 
 fowls, whereby the flesh attains greater firmness. 
 
 Lxc or Roast Porx.—Pork should be well done, or 
 it is apt to surfeit. To roast a leg of pork, weighing 
 from seven to eight pounds, will require nearly three 
 hours. Score the skin in strips about a quarter of an 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 ROASTING. 179 
 
 inch a part ; rub a little butter or sweet oil on the skin 
 with a paste brush, or a goose feather, which makes it 
 crisper and Paaner than basting it with dripping. Stuff 
 under the knuckle bone a seasoning of onion and sage 
 minced very fine, a little grated bread, pepper, salt, ey 
 the yolk of an egg; do not put it too near the fire, which 
 will prevent the skin from blistering. Take care it be 
 done enough, for pork under-done is not only not eat- 
 able, but absolutely unwholesome. Some sprinkle it 
 with salt a day or two before it is used, as eating better, 
 when thus dressed. The season for pork is from Mi- 
 chaelmas to March ; serve apple sauce. Peas pudding 
 may be eaten with roasted, as well as boiled pork. 
 
 A Griskin or Porx, of seven or eight pounds, 
 is dressed as a leg ; or it may be broiled. Remember to 
 rub oil or butter over it before you put it to the fire. 
 
 A Curne or Pork is stuffed here and there with 
 bread-crumbs, mixed with a little butter, and seasoned 
 with some finely shred sage, parsley, thyme, pepper, 
 and salt. The skin is cut into stripes, and rubbed with 
 butter or oil. If parted from the back-bone, so as to 
 have but one side, a good fire will roast it in about two 
 hours ; if not parted, three hours—apple sauce. 
 
 N.B. Chines are generally salted and boiled. 
 
 A Spare Rip or Pork, when put down to roast, 
 should be dressed with flour, and basted with a little 
 butter; have some sage leaves dry, and rubbed through 
 a sieve, mixed with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over 
 the meat. If weighing eight or nine pounds it will take 
 from two to three hours roasting, if it be thick ; lay the 
 thickest end nearest the fire. Fd cin it, and aes the 
 ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. Serve apple sauce 
 with it. 
 
 A Lorn or Pork, weighing five pounds, must be 
 kept at a good distance from the fire on account of the 
 eracklng, and will take about two hours. Score the 
 skin in stripes; rub with salad oil as for a leg. ater 
 sauce or savoury powder dhe over it. 
 
 n2 
 
180 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 Havina washed and neatly pared your meat, put 
 it into cold water (though some think boiling is best) 
 in the proportion of about a quart of water to a 
 pound of meat; it should be covered with water during 
 the whole process of boiling; the less water, provided 
 the meat be covered, the better flavour it will have. 
 The water should be heated gradually, according to 
 the thickness, &c., of the article boiled, suppose a 
 leg of mutton, of ten pounds weight, should be placed 
 over a moderate fire, which will make the water simmer- 
 ing hot, without causing it to boil for about forty 
 minutes ; if the water boil sooner, the meat will be 
 hard, and shrink up. 
 
 Especial care must be taken that the water really 
 boils. When the pot is coming to a boil there will 
 be a scum on the top, which must be carefully taken off. 
 
 The good appearance of all boiled things depends on 
 this. When you have skimmed well, put in some cold 
 water which will throw up the rest of the scum. The 
 oftener skimmed, the sweeter and cleaner will be the 
 meat. Many put the meat into a cloth, but this is not 
 necessary if the scum be properly removed, when the 
 meat will have a better colour, and more delicate 
 flavour. 
 
 Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil; from 
 fifteen to twenty minutes is given to boil one pound of 
 fresh meat, and rather more for pickled, salted, or 
 smoked, will not be too much for gentle simmering, 
 allowing more or less time according to the thickness of 
 the joint, and the coldness of the weather. Cooks are 
 too apt to boil too quickly. 
 
 The size of the boiling pots should be according to 
 the size of the meat. Block-tin sauce-pans are lightest 
 and safest, if proper care is taken in the cleaning and 
 drying them, besides being the cheapest. Let the 
 
 a ee 
 
 ~~ en ee 
 
 “eo a a et ela 
 

 
 BOILING. 181 
 
 covers fit close, to prevent unnecessary evaporation and 
 the escape of nutritive matter, which must then remain 
 in the meat ; besides, the smoke is prevented entering 
 and giving the meat a bad taste. 
 
 Large joints should be neatly trimmed, washed clean, 
 skewered, and bound firmly into good shape, before 
 boiling. 
 
 ArrcH or Ener Bone or BeEer, is to be boiled as 
 the round, but will be sooner done, as it is not so solid. 
 One of twenty pounds will be done in four hours; of ten 
 pounds in three hours, or more, according to the state of 
 the weather; give it plenty of water, and well covered ; 
 set the pot on one side of the fire to boil gently ; the 
 slower the better it will look, and the tenderer it will be. 
 The same vegetables as for the round. 
 
 Briskets and ribs, salted and rolled, are dressed in the 
 same way. 
 
 HALF A ROUND oF SALTED Brrr.—Skewer it tight 
 round, and tie a fillet of broad tape round to keep the 
 skewers in their places. Salt beef should be put into 
 plenty of cold water, and carefully catch the scum as it 
 rises ; let it boil till all of it is removed, and then put the 
 boiler on one side the fire, to keep it simmering slowly 
 till it is done. A piece weighing fifteen pounds will re- 
 quire from three hours to three hours and a half. Salt 
 meat should be well washed before it is boiled, particu-. 
 larly if it has been in salt long it should be soaked in 
 lukewarm water for two hours. If in the least tainted, 
 a piece of charcoal may be boiled with it. Garnish the 
 dish with carrots and turnips, or greens, which must be 
 also served up separately. 
 
 Leg or Murron.—A leg of mutton should first be 
 washed, then put on in boiling water, and carefully and 
 constantly seummed. If you let the scum boil down, it 
 will stick to the meat, and make it look black. If 
 weighing eight or nine pounds, it should be boiled nearly 
 three hours. Send it to table with turnips and caper 
 sauce. 
 
 Neck or Murrton is jointed and boiled in as much 
 
182 BOILING. 
 
 cold soft water as will cover it, and about two inches 
 over; simmer very slowly for two hours, if four or five 
 
 pounds weight. The skin taken off before serving. 
 
 Turnips and caper sauce served with it. 
 
 Lec or Lams BoILep, THE Lorn FRIED, AND Spr-. 
 
 wacH.—A. leg of lamb should lie in water an hour, 
 before it is put into boil; an hour and a quarter will boil 
 it, except it be a large one. Cut the loin into cutlets, 
 and the kidney into slices, leave the fat to the kidney; 
 put a little clarified butter into a frying-pan, and the 
 lamb chops in, season them with salt and pepper, fry 
 them of a light brown; put spinach round the sides of 
 
 the dish, the cutlets on ee spinach, and the leg of lamb. 
 
 in the middle. Some boil their lamb in a cloth, shaking 
 a little flour over the meat ; boil in a good quantity of 
 water, taking: off the scum as it rises. 
 
 A Knvuck1et or VEAL.—Shake a little flour over the 
 meat, and put it into a cloth. Let the water boil, and 
 have a good fire when the meat is in the pot. This re- 
 quires more boiling, in proportion to its weight, than 
 any other joint, as it is necessary to have all the gristle 
 soft and tender, that being the part generally most ap- 
 proved. Melted butter with parsley is poured over it. 
 Parsley and butter, with a little lemon-juice and mus- 
 tard for sauce. A neck of veal may be also boiled as 
 
 .above—but both are very tasteless dishes. 
 
 PickLep Lec or Porx.—Salt it eight or nine days, 
 according: to its size, turn and rub it daily. It should 
 be soaked for some hours if it has been in pickle many 
 days. Put it on in cold water; when it boils, take off 
 the scum, and be careful that the water continues to boil 
 all the time, and boil slowly. If it weighs seven or 
 eight pounds, it will take nearly three hours to boil. 
 Send it to table with peas-pudding, turnips, and carrots, 
 or greens. 
 
 PicxLep Porx.—Wash the pork, and scrape it clean; 
 put it on in cold water; boil it till the skin is tender. 
 Serve with greens. From two to three pounds will re- 
 quire simmering for an hour and a half. , 
 
 
 
BROILING. 183 
 
 To Bort Bacon.—If much salted, should be soaked 
 for some hours in warm water, changing the water once 
 or twice. Put it into cold water to boil. Pare off the 
 rusty and smoked part, trim it nicely on the under-side ; 
 take the skin off. A pound of bacon will take about 
 three quarters of an hour. Grate a crust of bread all 
 over it, and place it before the fire for a few minutes ; 
 not more, or it will dry and spoil it. The hock or gam- 
 mon, from being thick, will take more time in boiling. 
 Some put fat bacon into hot water, and lean into cold. 
 Windsor beans, greens, or cabbage, are served with 
 bacon. | 
 
 To Boru A Cutne or Bacon.—Take a chine that has 
 been salted and dried; soak it in cold water several 
 hours; scrape it clean, take a handful of beech, half as 
 much parsley, a few sprigs of thyme, and a little sage ; 
 chop them together very fine ; make some holes in the 
 chine, both fat and lean, and fill them with the herbs; 
 skewer it up close in a cloth: if a large chine, boil it 
 slowly for three hours. 
 
 To press A Ham.—Put into the water, in which the 
 ham is to be boiled, a quart of stale ale or old cider, a 
 pint of vinegar, and a large bunch of sweet herbs, con- 
 taining marjoram, winter savoury, thyme, parsley, and 
 bay leaf. Let the ham simmer until two-thirds done ; 
 ‘then take it up, skim, and cover it with raspings, and 
 set it in an oven until it is done enough. <A ham thus 
 dressed, is superior to one boiled in the usual way. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 Cuors or Steaxs.—Cut the steaks from the inside 
 of the sirloin, or the middle of a rump of beef, about 
 half an inch thick, and of even thickness; do not beat 
 them. Have a clear brisk fire, throw a little salt on it; 
 make your gridiron hot, and let it be well rubbed with 
 beef suet, set it slanting to prevent the fat from dropping 
 into the fire, and thus causing a smoke ; turn the steak 
 with a pair of steak tongs, it will require frequent 
 
184 FRYING. 
 
 turning, and take from ten to fifteen minutes, according 
 as you like it to be done ; put no salt on, but rub a bit 
 of butter over each steak. Have ready a dish before the 
 fire to lay the steak upon. It requires practice and care 
 to do steaks to a nicety. The very best beaf-steak is 
 from the inside of a sirloin, as the French have them. 
 
 Pork Cuors.—Cut the chops off a neck or loin, trim 
 
 them neatly. Put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of 
 butter; as soon as it is hot, put in your chops; broil 
 them over a clear fire, turning them frequently ; they 
 will take from fifteen to twenty minutes, or longer doing 
 than beef or mutton. As soon as done put them into a 
 dish, rub a little sage very fine (or, if green, chop it) 
 and strew over; put a little gravy (or not) into the 
 dish. 
 _ Lams-Cutiters.—Trim off all the fat ; season with 
 salt and pepper, dip into clamped butter and fine bread- 
 crumbs, broil over a clear and bright fire, laid on thin 
 white paper. Serve with a purée of cucumbers. 
 
 Lams Cuors witH Tomata Sauce.—Cut from the 
 best end of a neck of lamb as many chops as you re- 
 quire. Pepper, salt, and fry them of a light brown. 
 Put them in a stew-pan with a little good gravy, and 
 three table-spoonfuls of tomata sauce; let them stew 
 till tender; then take off all the fat, and thicken the 
 gravy with flour and butter, and three more spoonfuls of 
 the sauce. Simmer the whole a few minutes, and serve 
 up very hot. : 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 THIs is apparently a simple operation, but requires 
 great skill and care to be conducted with success. The 
 fat must attain that exact degree of heat to give firm- 
 ness, and yet not be allowed too suddenly to brown or 
 be scorched. This preliminary remark must be well ob- 
 served, or the article placed in the pan will remain pale 
 and flaccid, being saturated with the fat. 
 
 The sauté-pan is much used now, instead of the frying- 
 pan; for small collops, or any thing that requires 
 
 
 
FRYING. 185 
 
 little cooking, it is very convenient for tossing them 
 quickly. 
 
 For frying parsley and other herbs, a wire-basket, 
 such as may be procured at the ironmonger’s, will be 
 found very useful; it is to be placed in a pan filled with 
 fat, and when done, taken out quickly. Herbs may also 
 be crisped in it, over a clear fire. 
 
 To cuaRiry Drierines.—Put your dripping into a 
 clean sauce-pan over a stove, or slow fire ; when it is 
 just going to boil, skim it well, let it boil, and then let 
 it stand till it is a little cooled, then pour it through a 
 sieve into a pan or earthern jar, as you would clarified 
 butter. 
 
 Clarified drippings and the fat skimmings of the 
 broth pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste every thing as 
 well as butter, except game and poultry. They are nearly 
 equal to lard, if you repeat the clarifying twice over. 
 
 To PREPARE FAT FoR FRYING Fisu.—Carefully pick 
 ten pounds of beef suet; when ready, put it into an 
 iron kettle to melt ; as soon as melted, add five pounds 
 of fresh butter, and three of hog’s lard. The moment 
 the whole is in a boiling state, throw in two turnips, 
 four carrots, an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of 
 parsley, half a dozen shalots, a small bit of thyme, two 
 bay leaves, and a little sweet basil. Let the herbs and 
 roots fry until they are dried up. Strain the melted fat 
 through a sieve, and when nearly cold, stir in some bay 
 salt and whole pepper, and put it into jars for use. The 
 oftener this grease is used the better it becomes. To 
 fry fish nicely, the frying-pan should always be full, 
 and the fat strained into the jar the moment the frying 
 is concluded. 
 
 To CLARIFY SUET To FRY WITH.—Cut beef or mut- 
 ton suet into thin slices, pick out all the veins and 
 skins, &c., put it into a thick and well tinned sauce- 
 pan, and set it over a very slow stove, or in an oven, 
 till it is melted: you must not hasten the process ; if 
 not done very slowly, it will acquire a burnt taste, which 
 you cannot get rid of; then strain it through a hair 
 sieve into a clean brown pan. When quite cold, tie a 
 
186 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 paper over it and keep it for use. Hogs’ lard is pre- 
 pared in the same way. 
 
 Oi ror Fryina.—The oil must be new and perfect; 
 the least disagreeable taste is discovered when hot, and 
 communicates immediately to the articles fried therein; 
 otherwise, the colour it gives is brilliant, and it burns 
 less quickly than other fritures. To fry with clarified 
 butter, it should be of the freshest, and free of milkiness. 
 The best frying material is beef suet, melted. It preserves 
 the crispness of the articles fried in it the longest. 
 
 To make a fine fry, or, as the French call it, “friture,” 
 it should be put over a quick fire, and as soon as a 
 vapourous smoke ascends, it is sufficiently hot, then 
 place it at the corner of the stove to prevent it becom- 
 ing hotter, as then it will burn. When the pan is filled 
 with croquettes, &c., articles which simply require to 
 receive a colour, replace it, for the necessary time, on 
 the stove, whilst the filets a la horly, or whole fish, 
 require to go more gently, that they may be thoroughly 
 done. These are all the necessary directions for frying 
 
 perfectly. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS FOR STEWING, MINC- 
 ING, ROASTING, &c? 
 
 Omep Burrer.—Put two ounces of fresh butter into 
 a sauce-pan, ‘set it at a distance from the fire, so that it 
 may melt gradually, till it comes to an oil, and pour it 
 off from the dregs. 
 
 This will supply the place of olive oil; and by some 
 is preferred to it, either for salads or frying. 
 
 Cxiaririep Burrer.— Every cook should have a 
 stock of clarified butter, for it remains good for a long 
 time, and suits well for all operations of cookery. The 
 following is the manner of preparing it :—put the butter 
 into a well tinned sauce-pan, and melt it over a clear fire, 
 skim it as it begins to simmer, then remove it from the 
 fire, and let it stand, that any sediment may sink to the 
 bottom. Pour it into jars for use through a muslin 
 
 
 
 
 
 0 a ee 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 187 
 
 strainer. Butter thus purified will be as sweet as mar- 
 row ; a very useful covering for potted meats, &c., and 
 for frying fish equal to the finest Florence oil, for which 
 purpose it is commonly used by Catholics, and those 
 whose religious tenets will not allow them to eat viands 
 fried in animal oil. 
 
 To Dress Currse.—Half a pint of cream, two ounces 
 of butter, simmer these over a slow fire, then put half a 
 pound of cheese finely grated ; these to boil slowly half 
 an hour; put thin slices of toasted bread into your dish, 
 and pour the above over it; then grated bread shook 
 over it, and salamandered. . 
 
 TomaTa Dervin.— Make a Welsh rabbit; let the 
 cheese be chopped, and simmer it in a stew-pan, with an 
 addition of mushroom ketchup and a dust of Cayenne 
 pepper. Take a raw tomata divested of the stalk, cut 
 it in half, then score it, and apply more Cayenne ; sim- 
 mer this in another stew-pan until the skin cracks; take 
 it out, and make it into sauce. Spread as butter over 
 the rabbit, and serve it hot! hot! hot ! . 
 
 ToLEeMAN.—-Take a fine neck of mutton, the fat well 
 taken off, cut the meat clean from the bone, and chop it 
 fine; add to it a little thyme, onion, pepper, and salt, four 
 spoonfuls of ketchup and three of rice pap (ground rice) 
 boiled. Mix all well together, and roll it up into balls, 
 each ball to be rolled in two or three young vine leaves, 
 pour boiling water on the leaves to make them supple. 
 When these are all prepared, put them in your gravy, 
 and let them stew very slowly an hour and a quarter. 
 The gravy must be made of the mutton bones and a 
 good piece of the scrag end, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 onions, thyme, two spoonfuls of ketchup, two of whole rice 
 parboiled ; add to these a handful of sorrel about half an 
 hour before it is taken up. Skim your gravy clear from 
 fat, when the balls are put in, and again when you put 
 in the sorrel, when there is no sorrel use a spoonful of 
 vinegar. It requires to be well seasoned, and the grav 
 made good. If you cannot get vine leaves, tie the balls 
 up in muslin, which may be taken off before coming to 
 table. The vine leaves are not to be taken off. 
 
188 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 Horcu Porcu (A Scotch dish).—Put on as much 
 water as will make a sufficient quantity of soup ; when 
 it boils put in four or five pounds of the back ribs of 
 lamb, six young carrots, turnips cut into squares, and 
 two of each grated, a cauliflower and a lettuce cut down, 
 a few young onions, and a peck of green peas, half with 
 the other vegetables, and the other half about three 
 quarters of an hour before sent to table. Salt, pepper, 
 it, &c. When the meat has boiled for an hour and a 
 half, take it out and cut it into chops ; and, if you like, 
 send it to table in the soup. 
 
 To MAKE IrisH Stew, or HuntTeR’'s Piz.—Take part 
 of a neck of mutton cut into chops, season it well, put 
 into a stew-pan, let it braise for half an hour, take two 
 dozen of potatoes, boil them, and mash and season, 
 butter your mould and line it with potatoes, put in the 
 mutton, bake for half an hour, then it will be done, cut 
 a hole in the top, and add some good gravy to it. 
 
 ANOTHER Irish STEw.—Four pounds of potatoes, 
 and a pound and a half of meat, with a few onions, and 
 one carrot, makes a good stew for six or seven persons. 
 The meat must be cut into small pieces ; if it is half 
 mutton it will be all the better: add about three pints 
 of water. When the greater portion of the potatoes are 
 in a pulp, it will be done. Season it with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Meat AND VEGETABLE A LA WALKER.—Put a few 
 beets, a little onion, and lettuce, and a cucumber shred 
 into a stew-pan, with a little water, a proper quantity of 
 of butter, pepper, and salt. Set the pan in the oven, 
 and when the vegetables have been stewed some time, 
 put a quantity of peas boiled and some meat into the 
 pan, and let the whole stew till the meat is ready. Lay 
 the vegetables round the meat in the dish. Mutton, 
 
 lamb, and veal are excellent dressed in this manner; it — 
 
 is a very good way of using up cold meat. 
 
 To miIncE Beer.—Chop the under-done part fine, 
 with some fat, put a little water into a stew-pan, with 
 some onion or shalot, pepper, and salt, boil it till the 
 onion is tender, then put some of the gravy of the meat, 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 189 
 
 and the mince-meat with a spoonful of ketchup; make 
 it hot, but do not let it boil. Serve up in a hot dish 
 with sippets of bread ready, and pour the meat into it. 
 Mutton may be minced in the same way. 
 
 All sorts of stews, or meat dressed a second time, 
 should only be simmered. 
 
 TENDRONS OF VEAL. — Tendrons of. veal is the 
 gristle-bone of a breast of veal; cut it into thin slices, 
 put them into a stew-pan, with cold water, and put them 
 on the stove to blanch, take them off when they come 
 to a boil, put them into a white braize, let them simmer 
 for four hours, in which time they will be tender; take 
 them up, and lay them on a clean cloth to drain the fat 
 from them; cut some bruised truffles into slices, and put 
 them into cullis, with a little white-wine, and a bit of 
 truffle glaze; squeeze into them an orange, and a little 
 bit of sugar ; put them round the dish, and the truffles 
 in the middle ; garnish with croutons of bread or paste, 
 or a slice of truffle between every tendron. 
 
 A Lee or Mutton witn Garuic (from the Maga- 
 zine of Domestic Economy).—Being at Bourdeaux, we 
 one day gave a dinner at the hotel in which we lodged, 
 to a few English friends, whom we had met there. 
 Anxious to taste, and let our guests taste, a gigot a Pail 
 (a leg of mutton and garlic), a dish for which the 
 Bordelais cooks are celebrated, we ordered one as part of 
 the repast. When the roast was placed upon the table 
 at the second course, it appeared to us all to be a gigot 
 aux haricots (a leg of mutton and dried kidney-beans); 
 but the meat was delicious, and the beans certainly 
 superior to, and having a different flavour from, any 
 haricots we had ever tasted before. Vexed, however, at 
 what we considered an inattention to our orders, we 
 summoned the landlord, and begged to know why, when 
 we had ordered a gigot a Pail, he had presumed to send 
 up a gigot aux haricots ? 
 
 ‘‘ I] have shown no inattention,” he replied, “and 
 made no mistake. The dish of which you have just 
 eaten, and which your guests seemed to have liked, was 
 
190 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. | 
 
 a gugot a Pail, and what you have mistaken for beans is 
 
 garlic.” 
 
 “Ts it possible!” we exclaimed. Again we vege the 
 garlic, its rankness was gone, but there was in it a deli- 
 cious flavour for which we could not account. After 
 apologizing to our host,—*“ If the question be not indis- 
 creet, and the-matter no secret, how can you impart this 
 nehkiGus flavour to garlic ¢ ?” we asked. 
 
 ‘There is no secret in the case,” he replied. ‘‘ The 
 process is very simple. The garlic is thrown into five 
 different boiling waters, with a little salt, and boiled five 
 minutes in each. It is then drained, and put into the 
 dripping-pan under the roasting mutton.” 
 
 Since our return to Eagland, we have often had the 
 dish dressed, and no guest of ours, until he was told of 
 it, ever discovered that he had been a upon 
 garlic. 
 
 A Coxtp Hare or Rassit PI£, BONED OR UNBONED. 
 —Bone your hares or rabbits without cutting them to 
 pieces; but if you will not bone them, flatten them, and 
 break all the bones; then lard them with thin and long 
 bits of bacon, and let them continue im pickle for two 
 hours; then drain them, pound their livers with some 
 bacon, put them in the bottom of your pie, which you 
 may make of what shape you please. Over the pounded 
 bacon and livers, put your meat, seasoned on both sides, 
 and put over it some bay leaves, sweet basil, and slices 
 of bacon. And your pie being covered with its lid, let 
 it bake for two or three hours, more or less, according 
 as your meat is either old or young. When done, and 
 cold, serve it up. 
 
 A Coup Pre oF Partringers, YounG or OLtp.—Take 
 some partridges, either young or old, truss them, beat 
 their breasts flat, broil them a little on burning charcoal. 
 Get some bacon cut in long and thin bits, to lard your 
 partridges both top and bottom. Make a stuffing of 
 their livers with some pounded bacon seasoned, to stuff 
 your partridges. Your pie being made deep or other- 
 wise, put some stuffing in the bottom of it, and then 
 
 
 
 : 
 ; 
 : 
 

 
 “MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 191 
 
 place your partridges in it, seasoning them both under 
 and over, moistening them either with pounded bacon, 
 with butter, or with both. This mixture is proper for 
 all sorts of cold pies. Then put in some bay leaves and 
 sweet basil, and green truffles, if you have any, cover the 
 whole with slices of bacon. This done, put the lid 
 on your pie, let it bake for three or four hours, more or 
 less, according as the partridges prove to be young or 
 old ; and when your pie is done, and cold, serve it up. 
 
 Pies or Pouttrry or Game.—In making these pies 
 it is a clumsy expedient to put in a piece of beef for the 
 gravy. It is always an unseemly sight to see a great 
 piece of coarse meat served to the company with the 
 contents of the pie. Much better is it to put into the 
 pie a little good gravy, moistening with a little plain 
 ealf’s-foot jelly, or the bone of a knuckle of veal stewed 
 down to a jelly. These pies may be made of chickens, 
 pigeons, partridges, hares, rabbits, pheasants, gray 
 plovers, grouse, wild fowls, or small birds. Slices of 
 ham will be found an improvement to chicken and 
 rabbit pies. All of these pies should be eaten cold. 
 
 At certain seasons of the year the gray plover is te be 
 purchased very cheap in London; and any birds of this 
 species not used roasted and in salmi, may be made into 
 a pie, which will keep five or six days, or longer. 
 
 To port PartrinGe.—Clean them nicely; and season 
 with mace, allspice, white pepper, aud salt, in fine powder. 
 Rub every part well; then lay the breasts downwards in 
 a pan, and pack the birds as close as you possibly can. 
 Put a good deal of butter on them; then cover the pan 
 with a coarse flour-paste and a paper over, tie it close, 
 and bake. When cold, put the birds into pots, and cover 
 them with butter. 
 
 Satmon Piz.—Cut your salmon in slices, and la 
 them in the pie-dish, having well rubbed the bottom 
 with butter ; add salt and pepper, allspice, some bay 
 leaves, and some bruised shrimps, fill the pie about half 
 fuil with water and the salmon bones, make a good tish 
 
192 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. | 
 
 gravy; and when the pie is sufficiently baked, open the 
 lid, and pour the gravy into it. 
 
 A Marrow Pirr.—Take beef marrow and let it be 
 melted ; mix the melted marrow with pastry cream, stir 
 it well, add a good deal of sugar (if there is none in the 
 cream), a little preserved lemon-peel cut small, some — 
 bitter-almond biscuits, and a little orange-flower water, 
 mix with it the whites of six eggs beaten up to snow; 
 then put your ingredients over an abbess, with a side 
 crust ready made and spread in the bottom of a baking- 
 pan. You may set off your pie with what ornaments 
 you like; let it be baked immediately; being done, 
 strew it with sugar, glaze it, put it in a dish, and 
 serve it up hot. 
 
 Ham Toast.—A quarter of a pound of ham very 
 finely minced, the yolk of one egg, a table-spoonful of 
 cream, a little good gravy, seasoned with pepper and 
 salt, boil it together. Have a toast ready, and pour 
 the above on it, then cover it with fine bread-crumbs, 
 and brown it with a salamander. When a ham is 
 nearly finished, it is quite as good as a fresh one. 
 
 Buanc FoR VEGETABLES.—Cut half a pound of fat 
 bacon and a little beef suet into large dice ; take half a 
 quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little salt, and the 
 half of a lemon cut in thin slices, and put the whole 
 into a good quantity of water, whatever you wish to 
 put into your blanc. Let this stew half an hour before 
 you throw in your vegetables, which are generally done 
 about the same time; but the most certain method to 
 ascertain this, is to use the point of your knife. Send 
 them up with whatever sauce you think proper. They 
 likewise serve to garnish fricassées of fowls, ragouts, 
 white or brown. They are always to be boiled in this 
 way, in whatever sauce you may serve them. 
 
 
 
POULTRY, GAME, &c. 193 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING AND BOILING 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 IN roasting poultry, whether larded or not, let there 
 be always some clean writing paper over the breast- 
 bone, to prevent its being dried up before the other 
 parts are done. All poultry must be well basted, and 
 the paper not removed until they are more than half 
 done. Fowxs and TURKEYS require to be well done, 
 or their flesh would not be easy of digestion. They 
 must be dredged and nicely frothed up previously to 
 being taken from the spit. 
 
 Before a turkey is trussed for roasting, the sinews of 
 the leg, which are very tough, should be pulled out. 
 Its crop should be stuffed with a forcemeat, made thus: 
 Mix equal parts of sausage-meat and bread-crumbs, a 
 little lean ham and beef suet, finely shred, plenty of 
 grated nutmeg, a little pounded mace, some shred 
 lemon-peel, chopped parsley, a very little pounded 
 thyme, a small bit of pounded bay-leaf, white pepper 
 and salt to your taste, and bind with the yolks of two 
 or three eggs. They who object to sausage-meat may 
 leave it out, substituting veal and a greater quantity of 
 suet. As this stuffing increases the size of the bird, take 
 care that the part containing it be well done. A turkey 
 may be stuffed with boiled chesnuts, mixed with bread- 
 crumbs, suet, parsley, and seasoning; or with bleached 
 oysters, mixed with bread-crumbs, &c. 
 
 Turkey anp Fowns, when boiled, should be only 
 simmered, and plenty of time taken to do them. They 
 should not be dressed in an excess of fluid, and the water 
 should contain a bunch of herbs, a little salt, a couple of . 
 onions, and a very small quantity of vinegar. The liquor 
 in which they are boiled should be given to the stock-pot. 
 
 If they are required to be very white, flour them 
 
 7) 
 
194 POULTRY, GAME, Wc. 
 
 well, and cover them with a paste made of flour and 
 water, or else with bladder. They do not then lose 
 any of their juices in the water, but the gravy runs 
 from them when put into the dish, as from a sirloin of 
 beef. The liquor in which they are dressed by this 
 process may be thrown away. Boiled poultry should be 
 served up with celery, oyster, or onion sauce. 
 
 If a fowl is large, or if it be a capon, stuff the crop 
 like that of a turkey. Always put a small peeled onion 
 or two in the body of a fowl that is for roasting; insert it 
 through the vent, and take it out prior to sending it up. 
 
 SturFinc ror Hare or. TurKey.—Take half a 
 pound of beef suet, chopped very fine, some parsley, a. 
 little thyme, pepper, salt, and spices, the same quantity 
 of crumbs of bread as of suet, an egg or two, and mix. 
 the whole with a little milk. It would not be amiss to 
 put to it a very small bit of butter, and to pound the 
 whole in a mortar for a short time. This farce may be 
 used. with baked pike, or with either roasted or boiled tur- 
 key, roasted hare, &c. Ifthe taste of shalot is not objected 
 to, it will be found to add to the flavour of the stuffing. 
 
 A Goose, full grown, sometimes called a stubble 
 goose, should be hung three or four days or more, 
 before it is dressed, in order that it may become tender. 
 Let it be stuffed with the following: take some sage 
 leaves and onions (the quantity of each according to 
 your taste, and if you boil them a short time in water, 
 the stuffing will be rendered more mild and wholesome); 
 add also, if you please, an apple having the rind pared. 
 off, chop the whole very fine, to which add two spoon- 
 fuls of salt, one of pepper, and an ounce or more of 
 butter. These being put into the goose, and secured in 
 it by tying, spit it, and set it before the fire ; singe it, 
 and then dredge it with flour; when it becomes hot 
 baste it with butter. Some cover the breast-bone with 
 paper, which must be taken off some time before the 
 goose is done. When it is nearly done, dredge it again 
 with flour, and baste it till it froths. A goose of six 
 pounds’ weight will require about an hour and a half ; 
 
 
 

 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 195 
 
 take particular care in the roasting that the fire is 
 applied to both ends as well as to the middle of it; it 
 should be thoroughly done, and have no red flesh on 
 any of the bones. When the goose is done, put it into 
 the dish, (some pour a small quantity of boiling water 
 into it), and serve it up with apple-sauce, and mustard 
 of course; but it will also be best to prepare some 
 good gravy, and when the goose is cut up let it be 
 poured over it; adda glass of port wine to it, with half 
 a pint of porter. 
 
 GREEN GOosE ROASTED.—Take a fine, plump, fat, 
 green goose, the fat of which must be very white; it 
 the upper part of the back breaks easily, the fowl is 
 young ; cut off the pinions and prepare it ; blanch the 
 legs, and cut the nails; wipe it well with a She truss 
 it, leaving its legs en long, that is to say, stretched 
 out; spit it, and take care that it is not over-done, 
 which will be known by touching the fillet with a knife, 
 the juice will flow. 
 
 Tossep Fowt or Cuicken.—-Cut up your fowl or 
 chicken, giving the head and leg-bones to the stock-pot. 
 Put a bit of butter into the stew-pan, and brown the 
 limbs and gizzard. Add a bunch of herbs with green 
 onions, a clove of garlic at pleasure, an onion cut in 
 quarters, and pepper and salt. Moisten with a tea- 
 cupful of two-thirds stock broth and a third wine. If 
 you like, add some small mushrooms. Stew slowly till 
 the fowl is done, adding the liver just before you take it 
 up. Strain the sauce; put it for an instant into a 
 sauce-pan with some chopped parsley, squeeze in a 
 little Jemon-juice, and thicken with butter rolled in 
 flour. Serve up with slices of lemon round the dish. 
 
 A tossed duck may be dressed precisely in the same 
 manner. 
 
 To FATTEN Fowts orn CHICKENS IN Four or FIVE 
 Days.—Set rice over the fire with skimmed milk, only 
 as much as will serve one day; let it boil till ihe rice 
 is quite swelled out; feed them three times a day, 
 giving them only as much as they can eat at one time. 
 
 02 
 
196 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 When you put fresh, let your pan be washed out, that 
 no sour may be conveyed to the fowls, as that prevents. 
 their fattening; give them clear water, or the milk of 
 the rice to drink. The pen in which they are kept 
 should be cleaned every day, and no food given them 
 sixteen hours before they are killed. 
 
 The flesh of game requires much less cooking than 
 that of domestic poultry. 
 
 PARTRIDGES and PHEASANTS may be roasted in from 
 a quarter of an hour to twenty-five minutes. The. 
 pheasant and the red-legged partridge, the latter a 
 French bird, peculiar in England to the county of Suf- 
 folk, should be thickly larded on the breast. The gray 
 partridge not. When put down to roast, the breasts 
 should be covered with a thin band of fat bacon, which 
 should not be taken off except to froth up the birds. 
 ‘They should be continually basted with butter. 
 
 GUINEA-FOWLS and P£EA-Fow1s should be larded on | 
 the breast, and this covered either with fat bacon or 
 paper, until the bird is ready to be frothed up. These 
 birds must also be well basted, which is necessary for all 
 game ; it is, therefore, now recommended once for all. 
 
 Quais, Lapwines, FreELpFAREs, Rurrs, and REEVES, 
 are all roasted like the gray partridge, with a band of 
 fat bacon round the breast. 
 
 Woopcocks, Snipes, and PLovers, should not be. 
 drawn. They should be suspended head downward to a 
 revolving jack. This prevents the trail from escaping. 
 The breast should be covered with bacon, otherwise it 
 would be done too soon. ‘They are served up on toast, 
 without any other sauce than melted butter. 
 
 Larxs, Lapwines, Turusues, and other small birds, 
 should be roasted upon skewers, with bands of bacon 
 round each, with which they may be sent to table. In. 
 England they are roasted and served up without bacon, 
 and with fried bread crumbs. In France, being roasted 
 as above described, they are served on the skewers, and 
 garnished with water-cresses. 
 
 Wp Ducks, wiLp GEESE, WIDGEONS, and TEAL, 
 
 
 
POULTRY, GAME, &c. 197 
 
 require to be still less done than game. From ten 
 minutes to a quarter of an hour will do for all these 
 birds, except the wild geese, which will require from a 
 quarter of an hour to twenty-five minutes. They need 
 not be covered. 
 
 To KEEP GAME, &c.—Game ought not to be thrown 
 away even when it has been kept a very long time ; for 
 when it seems to be spoiled, it may often be made fit for 
 eating, by nicely cleaning it, and washing with vinegar 
 and water. If there is danger of birds not keeping, 
 draw, crop, and pick them ; then wash in two or three 
 waters, and rub them with salt. Have ready a large 
 sauce-pan of boiling water, and plunge them into it one 
 by one; drawing them up and down by the legs, that 
 the water may pass through them. Let them stay five 
 or six minutes in; then hang them up in a cold place. 
 When drained, pepper and salt the insides well. Before 
 roasting, wash them well. 
 
 The most delicate birds, (even grouse), may be pre- 
 served thus. Those that live by suction cannot be done 
 this way, as they are never drawn, and perhaps the heat 
 might make them worse, as the water could not pass 
 through them. 
 
 Lumps of chareoal put about birds and meat, will 
 preserve them from taint, and restore what is spoiling. 
 
 To keer VENISON OR HARE sweetT.—If venison be 
 very sweet, only dry it with a cloth, and hang it where 
 the air comes freely. If to be kept any time, dry it well 
 with clean cloths, rub it all over with beaten ginger, and 
 hang it in an airy place, and it will keep a great while. 
 If it stinks or is musty, take lukewarm water, and wash 
 it clean; then fresh milk and water lukewarm, and 
 wash it again; then dry it in clean cloths very well, and 
 rub it all over with beaten ginger, and hang it an airy 
 place. When you roast it, you need only wipe it with 
 a clean cloth, and paper it as before-mentioned. Never 
 do any thing else to venison, for all other things spoil it, 
 and take away the fine flavour. A hare may be ma- 
 naged just in the same way. 
 
198 POULTRY, Sa &e. 
 
 Game, if stale, is also known by sili livid colour of Bhe 
 flesh about the vent. 
 
 Witp Ducks, TEAL, WiDGEON, Don-pinps, &e. a 
 should be taken up with the gravy in. Baste them - 
 with butter, and sprinkle a little salt before they are 
 taken up ; put a good gravy under them, and serve sa 
 shalot sauce in a boat. 
 
 Woopcocks, Snirks, and Quatxs, keep good seve- 
 ral days. Roast them without drawing, and serve on 
 toast. Butter only should be eaten with them, as gravy 
 
 takes off from the fine flavour. The thigh and back are 
 esteemed the most. : . 
 
 To roast Witp Fowi.—The flavour is best pre- 
 served without stuffing. Put pepper, salt, and a piece 
 of butter, into each. 
 
 Wild fowl require much less dressing than a, they 
 should be served of a fine colour, and well frothed up. 
 A rich brown gravy should be sent in the dish ; and 
 when the breast is cut into slices, before taking off the 
 bone, a squeeze of lemon, with pepper and salt, is a great 
 improvement to the flavour. 
 
 To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes 
 have, put an onion, salt, and hot water, into the drip- 
 ping-pan, and baste them for the first ten minutes with 
 this; then take away the pan, and baste sipped vith 
 butter. 
 
 Rassrts may be eaten various ways, as follows :— 
 
 Roasted with stuffing and gravy, like hare; or without 
 stuffing with sauce of the liver and parsley chopped: in 
 melted butter, pepper, and salt ; 3 oF larded. 
 
 Boiled and smothered with onion-sauce; the bitten to 
 be melted with milk instead of water.. 
 
 Fried in joints, with dried or fried parsley. The 
 
 same liver sauce, this way also. 
 
 Fricasseed, as before directed for chickens. : 
 
 In a pie, as chicken, with forcemeat, &e. In this. way 
 they are excellent when young. 
 
 . To press PLrovers.—Roast the green ones in the 
 same way as woodcocks and quails, without drawing ; 
 
 
 
POULTRY, GAME, &c. 199 
 
 and serve on a toast. Gray plovers may be either 
 roasted or stewed with gravy, herbs, or spice. 
 
 Plovers’ eggs are a nice and fashionable dish. Boil 
 them ten minutes, and serve either hot or cold on a 
 napkin. 
 
 Grouse and Moorcocks are also roasted in the 
 same manner. They are not larded, but the breast 
 should be protected by a band of bacon until they are 
 nearly done. 7 
 
 ‘Rurrs and Reeves, which are found in England, 
 chiefly in Lincolnshire and the Isle of Ely, are a deli- 
 cacy; they are trussed like woodcocks, but not dressed 
 like them with the entrails. They take about twelve 
 minutes to roast. Serve them up with gravy and bread 
 sauce; garnish with crisp crumbs of bread. 
 
 Moor Game, such as black cocks, grouse, quails 
 and other birds of the partridge tribe, are to be dressed 
 in a similar way to the partridge or the pheasant, which 
 see. Of course, the time of their roasting will depend 
 upon the size of the bird ; a quail, being small, will be 
 done in ten or at most fifteen minutes. 
 
 To roast A TurKxey.—Let your turkey hang, if in 
 cold weather, for ten or twelve days in an airy larder. 
 Loosen the skin of the breast, and fill it with force-meat, 
 made as follows:—Take a quarter of a pound of beef 
 suet, crumbs of bread, a little lemon peel, some nutmeg, 
 pepper, parsley, and thyme. Chop and beat them all 
 well together, mix them with the yolk of an egg, and 
 stuff up the breast. Now roast the turkey of a fine 
 brown, and baste it well, but be sure to pin white paper 
 on the breast till it is nearly done enough, which will be 
 in an hour. 
 
 You must have good gravy in the dish, and bread 
 sauce made thus: take a good piece of crumb, put in a 
 pint of water, with a blade or two of mace, two or three 
 cloves, and some whole pepper. Boil it up five or six 
 times, then with a spoon take out the spice, and pour off 
 the water; then beat up the bread with a good piece of 
 
200 POULTRY, GAME, &ce. 
 
 butter and a little salt. Put the sauce into boats, and 
 garnish with lemon. 
 
 Another sauce is to take half a pint of oysters, strain 
 the liquor, and put the oysters with the liquor in a sauce- 
 pan, with a blade or two of mace, let them just lump, 
 pour in a glass of white wine, let it boil once, and thicken 
 it with a piece of butter rolled in flour. Serve this up 
 by itself, with good gravy in the dish, for every body 
 does not like oyster sauce. This makes a nice side dish 
 for supper, or a corner dish of a table for dinner. If you 
 chafe it in a dish, add half a pint of gravy to it, and boil 
 it up together. 
 
 PHEASANTS AND PartripGEs.—Roast them as tur- 
 key: and serve with a fine gravy (into which put a very 
 small bit of garlic), and bread sauce. When cold, they 
 may be made into excellent patties, but their Raton 
 should not be overpowered by lemon. 
 
 CAPON STUFFED WITH TRUFFLE.—Prepare a eapons 
 empty it by the craw; use the hook of a skimming- 
 spoon, and take care not to break the gall; prepare two 
 pounds of nice truffle, hash the broken or unseemly ones, 
 cut in dice, and pound nearly a pound of fat bacon; put 
 it into a stew-pan with the truffle, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 and fine spices ; simmer upon a slow fire about half an 
 hour; let them cool; stuff the capon; sew and truss the 
 legs, stretched out; hang it, if possible, two or three 
 days ; cover them with lard ; spit and cover them with 
 paper; give it nearly an hour and a half; if used for a 
 remove, take off the lard, and serve it with pig’s skin 
 over a truffle sauce. 
 
 Fow. roastED.— Pluck the wings and the head of a 
 pullet; truss up the legs, taking care not to hurt the 
 skin ; pick it, take out the canal, draw it by the crop, 
 taking care not to break the gall; mix a little butter 
 with some lemon-juice and salt, with a wooden spoon, 
 and stuff the pullet ; truss the legs without ; bind the 
 wing's; skewer, and rub the breast with lemons strew on 
 a little salt, ad cover with slices of lemon; cover it with 
 
 
 

 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 201 
 
 slices of lard, and over these put several sheets of paper, 
 tied to the skewers at both ends; fix it on the spit; let 
 it cook an hour; take off the paper; drain and serve it 
 with any sauce. 
 
 To roast WiLtp Ducxs.—Choose a fat duck or 
 two; look that the webs of the feet are of a fine 
 colour, and not dry; to know if they are stale, open the 
 beak and smell them; feel that the belly and rump are 
 firm, and the ducks heavy, which are signs that they are 
 fat and fresh ; the hen is more delicate than the cock, 
 though in general the cock brings a higher price; pre- 
 pare two of these ducks, pick off the down, cut off the 
 pinions close to the body and the necks ; truss the feet 
 up, which must be blanched and pared; rub them with 
 their liver; spit them; let them be under-dune, and send 
 them to table with two uncut lemons. 
 
 Satap oF Fowxis.—Take two cold roasted fowls (or 
 dessert, that is to say, what has been left from a former 
 day), cut them up as for a mayonnaise ; put them into 
 an earthen dish, season them in the same manner as a 
 salad, add whole capers, gherkins cut in fillets, and other 
 minced materials of that kind; mix all together; dish it 
 as a fricassée of chicken; garnish the border of the dish 
 with fresh lettuce cut in quarters, hard egg's cut in the 
 same manner; strew over the pickles, anchovies, capers, 
 and gherkins, which were kept out on purpose ; sauce 
 with the seasoning. 
 
 Turkey, Turkey Povuuts, anp oTHER PoULTRY.— 
 A fowl or turkey requires the same management at the 
 fire, which should be clear and brisk. 
 
 A turkey, when first put down, should be dredged 
 with flour, then put about an ounce of butter into a 
 basting-ladle, and, as it melts, baste the bird with it ; 
 keep at a little distance from the fire at first, that it may 
 warm gradually, then put it nearer. It should never be 
 placed so near the fire as to scorch it. A very large 
 turkey will require about three hours to roast; a middling 
 size, from eight or ten pounds, about two hours; a small 
 one, an hour and a half. 
 
202 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 Turkey poults, being of different sizes, will take from 
 twenty minutes to one hour. 
 
 A cock turkey, for roasting. 
 
 A hen turkey, for boiling. 
 
 TURKEYS, Capons, Fowis, Cuickens, &c., are all 
 boiled in the same manner, allowing time, according to 
 their size. 
 
 A chicken will take about twenty minutes. 
 
 A fowl, about forty minutes. 
 
 A poularde or capon, about an hour. 
 
 A small turkey, an hour and a half. 
 
 A large turkey, two hours or more. 
 
 Rabbits should be put into a basin of warm water ; 
 then put them into plenty of water, and boil half an 
 hour. If large, three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Capron or Fowxrs To Roast.—A full-grown fowl, 
 poularde, or capon, will take an hour.to roast; a mode- 
 rate-sized one, an hour ; achicken, about thirty minutes. 
 
 Be careful that your roasted poultry be well and nicely 
 browned, and quite done. 
 
 A full-grown goose, from one hour and a half, or 
 more; green geese require roasting from forty to fifty 
 minutes ; a duckling will take about fifteen minutes; a 
 duck, from half to three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 A rabbit full grown, about forty minutes; a young 
 one, thirty minutes. A pigeon, from fifteen to twenty 
 minutes. 
 
 To Roast GAmME.—Woodcocks should not be dean: 
 and have a clear fire. Handle them as little as possible, 
 as they are easily spoiled, and do not break the skin in 
 plucking the feathers. Have as many slices of bread as 
 you have birds; toast or fry them and lay them in the 
 _dripping-pan, and serve the birds on them; baste with 
 butter, and froth with flour. Serve up with a little good 
 gravy in the dish. Fifteen minutes to roast. When on 
 the table, the trail is taken out, and spread on the toast. 
 Garnish with water-cresses. 
 
 Snipes are to be dressed as woodcocks, but, as the birds 
 are smaller, require in proportion less time in roasting. 
 
 
 
POULTRY, GAME, &c. 203 
 
 Plovers should be rather under-done, with gravy in 
 the dish, and water-cresses. 
 
 A young pheasant about thirty minutes; a full-grown, 
 about forty minutes. Serve with bread sauce; garnish 
 with water-cresses. 
 
 Guinea and pea-fowls are dressed as pheasants. 
 
 Partridges take about fifteen minutes. Let them be 
 kept as long as they can be, safely. Shake a little flour 
 over them, and a little salt, and baste with a little butter; 
 a little plain gravy in the dish. Serve with bread, rice, | 
 or clear shalot sauce. : 
 
 Grouse and moor game will take the same time to 
 roast as partridge; black cock as a pheasant. Serve 
 bread-sauce, or currant jelly. 
 
 Larks and other small birds should be well basted 
 with butter; about ten minutes will do them. Sprinkle 
 bread-crumbs over them whilst roasting. Fry some 
 grated bread crumbs in clarified butter; set to drain be- 
 fore the fire to harden or dry. Serve them under the 
 larks, and garnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 Wheatears and ortolans are dressed as larks. Some 
 place a vine-leaf over these birds. 
 
 Wild ducks must have a clear and brisk fire; they 
 must be well frothed; from fifteen to twenty minutes to 
 roast. 
 
 Widgeons and teal dressed as the wild duck, only less 
 time is requisite. 
 
 A moderate-sized hare requires about one hour and a 
 quarter. When nearly done, take a bit of butter in 
 your basting-ladle, and dredge the hare with flour, and 
 froth it nicely with the butter. 
 
 To Roast Harze.—After it is skinned, let it be ex- 
 tremely well washed, first in cold then in warm water, 
 and afterwards soaked an hour or two in water; and if 
 old, lard it, which will make it tender. It may be also 
 rendered more tender by letting it lie in vinegar. If, 
 however, it is put into vinegar, it should be exceedingly 
 well washed in water afterwards. Put a large relishing 
 stufing into the belly, and then sew it up. Baste it 
 
204 ‘POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 well with milk till half done, and afterwards with butter. 
 If the blood has settled in the neck, soaking the part in 
 warm water, and putting it to the fire warm will remove 
 it, especially if you also nick the skin here and there 
 with a small knife to let it out. The hare should be 
 kept at a distance from the fire at first. If this be not 
 done, the outside will become hard. Serve with a fine 
 froth, rich gravy, melted butter, and currant-jelly sauce; 
 the gravy in the dish. For stuffing, use the liver, some 
 fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, a 
 little onion, crumbs of bread, and an egg to bind it all. 
 The ears must be nicely cleaned, and singed, and made 
 crisp. They are reckoned a delicacy. 
 
 Roast Hare (Another fashion).—The hare, being 
 paunched, kept sufficiently long to be tender, then 
 skinned, soaked in water, well cleansed, and properly 
 trussed, should be stuffed with two or three ounces of 
 bread, four ounces of beef suet (to which add the same 
 quantity of butter), the liver of the hare boiled, a little 
 parsley, a bit of lemon peel, a little Cayenne pepper, a 
 sprig of winter savory or lemon thyme, pepper, and salt, 
 two eggs and a glass of port wine, an anchovy and some 
 bacon; all these articles must be chopped fine, and mixed 
 well together, and then be sewed up in the belly. Lay 
 it now before the fire; put into the dripping-pan a quart 
 of good new milk, and baste it well with the milk till it 
 is nearly all used ; then dredge it with flour, and baste 
 with butter till it froths well. A very old hare will be 
 best made into soup. When your hare is done, serve it 
 up with good gravy in the dish, currant jelly, and a little 
 melted butter. 
 
 Juacrp Harr.—The hare being properly skinned 
 and cleansed, cut it into separate portions as if for eating, 
 dividing the legs into two or more; prepare a stuffing as 
 if for roasting, and put it into the jug with the hare, 
 rolling it into several balls. In short, treat the hare in 
 respect to the seasoning and stuffing as if you were 
 about to roast it, except, of course, you must omit all 
 relative to the basting; to these add a quart of good 
 
 
 
PQULTRY, GAME, &c, 205 
 
 beef or mutton broth. Stew the whole in a water-bath 
 till it is done: it will take two hours and a half, or three 
 hours, if old. 
 
 Instead of stewing this dish, it is much more con- 
 veniently baked. Wane is best added to the gravy when 
 your hare is served up, which it may be in precisely the 
 same way as one that is roasted. 
 
 STUFFING FOR ROAST Hare.—Chop three ounces of 
 beef suet fine, add four ounces of bread-crumbs, a tea- 
 spoonful of chopped shalot, season it with thyme and 
 parsley, chervil, or with three drachms of Brande’s 
 herbaceous mixture, a little salt, and two new-laid eggs; 
 the liver, if good, can be added ; let it be blanched and 
 minced fine. 
 
 A BatTER FoR ROAST Hare. — Make a batter as for 
 apple-fritters, but not quite so thick; add two spoonfuls 
 of salad oil, two of flour, three yolks and one white of 
 eggs; mix all together, with new milk and a little salt. 
 Baste the hare with it at the time of roasting, when 
 half done. 
 
 A Saumi or Coty Game.— Take off the legs, wings, 
 and breasts of as many underdone roasted partridges as 
 you have cold. Remove the skin from them carefully. 
 Then put into a stew-pan, with a lump of fresh butter 
 as large as a walnut, a few small slices of ham, four or 
 five shalots, a diced carrot, a few mushrooms, a root of 
 parsley, a small sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, a couple of 
 cloves, half-a-dozen peppercorns, and the same quantity 
 of allspice. Fry the vegetables rather highly, then gra- 
 dually add a couple of large wine-glassfuls of sherry, 
 next, four or five spoonfuls of good brown gravy, and 
 one spoonful of mushroom ketchup. When these things 
 are in the stew-pan, the backs, heads, skin, and other 
 parings of the partridges (excepting the claws), must be 
 thrown in immediately after. The whole must then 
 simmer very gently on the hob, or close to the fire, 
 during an hour and a half; then season it to your taste; 
 and soon after skim off the fat, and add a lump of sugar. 
 When this is dissolved, strain the gravy over the wings, 
 
206 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 legs, and breasts of the partridges, which must be put 
 
 for this purpose into a clean stew-pan. Place them 
 upon hot ashes, or a very small clear fire, and let the 
 
 salmi heat very gently, until the meat is thoroughly 
 
 saturated with the hot sauce, and is of the highest pos- 
 
 sible temperature, without reaching boiling point. Serve. 
 
 up with fried sippets of bread between or round the 
 dish. | | 
 
 ANOTHER.—There is another mode of making a 
 salmi, which presents the advantage of being prepared 
 in a much shorter time than the preceding. As there is 
 some difference in the flavour of the two preparations, 
 the choice between them must be wholly regulated by 
 taste. 
 
 The birds should be prepared as before directed, then 
 put the limbs into a clean stew-pan; pound the trim- 
 mings in a marble mortar, and put these into another 
 stew-pan, with some gravy, half a dozen shalots, the 
 same number of peppercorns and allspice, and two 
 glasses of port wine. Let the whole boil gently during 
 three quarters of an hour, then strain the liquor off into 
 a clean sauce-pan, season it with pepper and salt, and 
 put it on the fire. Squeeze in the juice of a Seville 
 orange, or of a lemon if no orange is to be had. Add 
 a thickening of butter rolled in flour. Let the sauce 
 boil again gently for ten minutes, then strain it upon 
 the meat in the first stew-pan, the contents of which 
 must now be made to stew gently on the hob, or on 
 
 the side of the stove, until the process is complete ; 
 
 particular care being taken that they do not. boil, 
 for should it be allowed to boil, the salmi would be 
 spoiled. 
 
 The wings, breasts, legs, and rumps of the birds are 
 
 to be cut up as for eating, and kept in readiness. 
 There must be four underdone partridges roasted for 
 the occasion ; the breasts being covered to prevent their 
 
 becoming too brown. The livers of these birds, to- 
 gether with the liver of a fine white capon, roasted 
 
 very little, bruised altogether in the silver dish in which 
 
 
 
 _ 
 

 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 207 
 
 the salmi is served up. Over this liver squeeze the 
 juice of four lemons. The rind of one of them should 
 be grated over the juice. The limbs of the birds are 
 now to be placed upon the dish, seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, pounded Jamaica or long pepper, and pounded 
 mace and allspice. To this add two large tea-spoonfuls 
 of French mustard, prepared with Tarragon vinegar, 
 diluted in a glass of Chablis (for which Bucellas or 
 Vin de Grave may be well substituted; if neither be at 
 hand, Sherry may be employed). The dish is now 
 placed over a small furnace, with the least quantity of 
 lighted charcoal in it, and the/ meat to be éontinually 
 moved with a spoon and fork, in order that each piece 
 may be fully saturated with the sauce. When, at 
 length, the latter approaches the boiling point (and the 
 greatest care should be taken to prevent its actually 
 reaching it) a spoonful of the very best Provence 
 oil should be poured equally upon all parts of the salmi. 
 Then remove the stew-pan from the furnace, and stir an 
 instant longer before serving. 
 
 Roastep Woopcocks.—There is more art in roast- 
 ing woodeocks than any other bird of the same size. 
 They require constant attention during the operation of 
 roasting them. As they must be very little dressed, 
 the flesh of the woodcock, like that of all dark-fleshed 
 game, being digestible when almost raw, and losing its 
 savour if roasted to the same degree as a partridge, their 
 cooking occupies but little time ; therefore, the cook 
 should never leave her woodcocks from the moment 
 they are put down, until she takes them up. 
 
 Truss without drawing them, and put toast under 
 them to catch the trail, which often falls from them 
 when they are before the fire. The most delicate parts 
 of the woodcock are the legs and the trail; next, the 
 breast. As this latter must be very much underdone, 
 and the legs a little better done, to be eatable, there is, 
 of course, an inequality in their roasting, which must be 
 obviated by stopping the spit for a time, whenever the 
 legs are turned towards the fire, in order to give them a 
 
208 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 greater proportion of heat. The woodcocks, when done, 
 are served up upon the toast only, as their flavour would 
 be deteriorated by any kind of gravy. In England, 
 melted butter is often used with them. 
 
 We had prepared receipts for stewing and hashing 
 woodcocks; but on consideration, we think it a profana- 
 tion to eat this noble bird in any other manner than 
 plainly roasted au naturel. 
 
 To Dress WueEat-Ears.—These exquisite birds are 
 in season from July to October. They are particularly 
 delicate, and should be dressed with a vine-leaf over 
 each. When picked, gutted, and trussed, spit them on 
 a long wooden-skewer ; a dozen on each. Brush them 
 over with the yolks of raw eggs, diluted with a spoonful 
 of raw milk, to each yolk; and having covered them with 
 fine bread crumbs tie the skewers on a spit, and roast 
 them before a brisk fire, for twelve or fifteen minutes. 
 Baste them with fine fresh butter, and serve them on 
 bread crumbs, that have been fried in clarified butter to 
 a cinnamon brown, quite hot and dry. Wheat-ears are 
 excellent for breakfast, luncheon, supper, entrémets, or 
 fora pie. For the latter purpose, split them down the 
 back, chop off the legs, and season them with a little 
 pounded mace, nutmeg, pepper, aud salt. Place them 
 in a potting pot that will hold about a dozen, bake them 
 in a sharp oven twenty minutes. Keep them in a cold 
 place. They are generally sent to table in the pot. 
 
 Hasnep Fowi.—Cut it into pieces, and put it into 
 some gravy, with a little cream, ketchup, a little grated 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg, a few oysters and their liquor, 
 a bit of butter mixed with flour; keep it stirring until 
 the butter is melted ; lay sippets in a dish ; put im the 
 hash, and serve. 
 
 ScoLuors oF Fowtis with CucumBErs.—Take off 
 the fillets of three fowls, cut your scollops of the size of a 
 half-crown piece, dip them into some clarified butter, in a 
 sauté-pan, sautez them over a brisk fire on both sides, 
 and throw them into sauce of cucumbers. The shortest 
 way of making the scollops, and likewise retaining all. 
 
POULTRY, GAME, &c. 209 
 
 the gravy, is to sautez the fillets just at dinner-time, 
 and to scollop them quickly. 
 
 Bortep Goosr.—Take a goose, singe it, and pour 
 over it a quart of boiling milk; let it lie in this all 
 night; then take it out, dry it well with a cloth, cut 
 into small pieces a large onion and some sage; put them 
 into the goose, sew it up at the neck and vent, hang it 
 up by the legs till the next day; then put it into a pot 
 of ‘cold water, cover it close, and let it boil gently for 
 an hour. Serve with onion sauce. 
 
 Another method of boiling a goose is, by laying it in 
 salt for a week, then boil it for an hour. Serve with 
 onion sauce, or cabbage boiled or stewed in batter, or 
 the German sauer-kraut. 
 
 Fow. WiItH THE FLAvour oF GAme.—Take a rab- 
 bit that has been kept a long time, and cut the meat off 
 it into thin slices, lay them on a dish, and season them 
 with pepper and salt, chopped parsley, chibbol, shalots, 
 and a little sweet oil; split a fowl at the back, bone it 
 all to the legs and wings, stuff it with this, then sew it 
 up, and give it its natural form; braize it with slices of 
 veal and ham, covered over with slices of bacon; soak 
 it about a quarter of an hour; then add a glass of white 
 wine, a little broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and 
 salt. When done, sift and skim the sauce; add a little 
 cullis, and serve it over the fowl. 
 
 A Roastep Fow.i with GREEN WaAxtNuts.—Pick 
 and gut your fowl, and cut the liver small, with scraped 
 bacon, some butter, parsley, onions, mushrooms, pepper, 
 salt, sweet herbs, and fine spice; mix all well together ; 
 then take a handful of half-ripe walnuts, picked and 
 peeled, and mix them with your mince-meat; put it all 
 into the belly cf your fowl, which spit, wrapped up in 
 slices of bacon, with paper tied round. Take about 
 half a hundred, which is enough, of green walnuts, 
 picked for one fowl, blanch them in hot water; then put 
 them in a stew-pan, with half a ladleful of ham cullis, 
 and a little gravy ; let it boil a moment, and skim the 
 
 P 
 
210 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 
 
 fat well off; see they have a good taste. Your fowls 
 being done, draw them off the spit, and take: off the 
 slices of bacon, and dish them up; then pour your ragout 
 of green walnuts over them, and serve them up hot for 
 entrée. 
 Capons may be dressed in the same fckone 
 - A Fow. witH LARGE Ontons.—Take a fowl, clean 
 and gut it as above, spit it, and baste it with good butter; 
 cut large onions into slices, and put them in a stew-pan 
 with a lump of butter; then put it over the fire. - When 
 it becomes of a good colour, strew it with a dust of flour, 
 moisten it with gravy, season it, and skim it well; if it 
 is not thick enough, put in a little of your stock-pot 
 gravy or cullis. Your fowl being roasted, take it off 
 and dish it up, and put your onions over it, with the 
 juice of a lemon, and serve it up hot for entrée. 
 A Roastep Fow. wirn Cuesnuts.—Pick and gut 
 a fowl, cut the liver smail, together with parsley, green 
 onions, scraped. bacon, butter, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, 
 and fine spice. ‘Take chesnuts, peel them, and put 
 them into 4 braise to take off the small skin; then mix 
 your chesnuts with the force-meat, put all together into 
 the belly of your fowl, and blanch it in a stew-pan with 
 a bit of butter; spit it, wrapped in slices of bacon, with 
 paper tied round it. Take your peeled chesnuts, put 
 them in a baking-pan, with fre under and over, and 
 take off that small skin; then put them m a stew-pan 
 with broth, and let them be well done; when they are 
 
 fully done, pour out the broth, and put in it a little ~ 
 
 gravy. Your fowl being done, draw it off the spit, and 
 take off the slices of: bacon; dish it up, put your ches- 
 nuts over it, with the juice of a lemon, and serve it up 
 hot for entry. 
 
 A Woopcockx Pir.—Raise a pie according to she 
 size of the dish it is to go on, lay a few slices of veal at 
 the bottom, then a layer of force-meat, then put in six 
 woodcocks, season. them with fine herbs and chopped 
 mushrooms; put in a pound of raw truffles pared and 
 
 a > 
 

 
 POULTRY, GAME, &c. 211 
 
 cut in slices, cover the woodcocks with slices of bacon, 
 cover the pie, and garnish according to fancy. Two 
 hours and a half will bake it. 
 
 A ParTripnGEe Pir.—Raise a pie according to the 
 size of the dish; put in slices of veal at the bottom, 
 then some force-meat, then put in the partridges, which 
 should be boned and filled with force-meat, and a whole 
 raw truffle in each; season it with fine herbs and chopped 
 mushrooms; put in one of raw truffles, cover the par- 
 tridges with slices of bacon, then cover it, and garnish 
 as you please. It will take three hours te bake. The 
 oven for game pies should not be too hot. Cut half 
 a ham into small pieces, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with the bones, livers, and gizzards of the par- 
 tridges, and any other loose giblets you may have at 
 hand ; put about a dozen shalots, and a few blades of 
 mace ; set it on the fire with a little stock for about ten 
 minutes, then put about three pints of good stock, and 
 half a pint of Madeira; let it boil very gently for about 
 two hours, then strain it off, and put about one ounce of 
 butter into a stew-pan to melt, then put as much flour 
 as will dry up the butter, then put in the liquor that the 
 partridge bones were stewed in, boil it very slow for a 
 few minutes, and strain it through a tammy. Pour the 
 fat from the pie, and put in the sauce; add a few fat 
 livers and a sweetbread cut as a ragout. 
 
 
 
212 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 - Great care should be taken of pudding and jelly 
 bags, tapes for collaring, &c. &c., which, if not well 
 -sealded and dried, impart an unpleasant taste or flavour 
 the next time they are used. 
 
 Be careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly clean 
 and sweet, and kept in a dry place. Wash it without 
 soap, with soda, or pearl-ashes, m hot water (unless very 
 greasy), then rince it thoroughly in water; before using, 
 dip it in boiling water, squeeze it dry, and flour it. 
 
 The water should be boiling before your pudding is 
 put in, which should be moved about for a minute or two, 
 to prevent the ingredients from separating. Set your 
 stew-pan, with plenty of water, on a trivet over the fire, 
 and keep it steadily boiling all the time; if put on the 
 fire, the pudding often burns. If the fire is very fierce, 
 stir the puddings every now and then to keep them from 
 sticking to the bottom. If ma mould, this care is not 
 so necessary. If boiled in a cloth without a basin, when 
 done, have a pan ready of cold water, into which dip 
 your pudding as soon as taken out of the sauce-pan, 
 which will prevent it adhering to the cloth; but when 
 boiled in a mould well buttered, they will turn out with- 
 out. 
 
 Custard and bread-puddings require to stand five mi- 
 nutes before they are turned out. If a bread-pudding, 
 tie it rather loose, to allow of swelling ; if of flour, 
 tight. 
 
 Basins or moulds are best for boiling puddings, but 
 these must be buttered before you put in the pudding, 
 placing a piece of buttered writing-paper over the top 
 

 
 PUDDINGS. 213 
 
 of the mould before the cloth is put on, and boiled in 
 plenty of water. When sufficiently done, take it up, 
 and let it stand a little to cool; then untie, and take the 
 cloth off, lay the dish over the top of the basin, turn it 
 upside down, carefully take off the basin, as light pud- 
 dings are apt to break. 
 
 Batter-puddings should be free of lumps; to ensure 
 this, first mix the flour well with a little milk, then add 
 the other ingredients by degrees, when it will be quite 
 smooth. If for a plain batter-pudding, the best way is 
 to strain it through a coarse sieve when mixed. In 
 every other kind of pudding the eggs must be strained 
 separately. The ingredients for bread or flour-puddings 
 should be mixed (except the eggs) two or three hours 
 before boiling or baking. The flour used for puddings 
 (or cakes) must be well dried and sifted. Raisins 
 washed, stoned, and dried, and currants also; a little 
 salt improves the flavour of all mixtures, even when the 
 other ingredients are sweet, but its flavour should not be 
 in the least perceptible. Puddings should not be put 
 into the basin or dish till the minute they go into the 
 water or oven, and should be well stirred before they are 
 put into the sauce-pan or oven. When warm butter.is to 
 be put into the puddings, a little milk (or wine) prevents 
 its oiling. All the ingredients should be fresh, and of 
 the very best quality. The least mustiness or taint in 
 any one article, will spoil a. whole pudding. 
 
 ON BAKING PUDDINGS. 
 
 Auu dishes in which puddings are to be baked, must 
 be lined an inch or two below the edge, as well as on it, 
 and that part of the dish first rubbed with butter. If a 
 pudding is to be turned out, the whole dish must be 
 buttered and lined with paste. 
 
 Great care is necessary to prevent rich crusts from 
 becoming brown, which makes them rank. A piece of 
 
 
 
 
 
214 PUDDINGS. 
 
 paper put over them will preserve fees ee aoe 
 care that your butter be good. 
 
 Bread and custard puddings baked require time, iid 
 a moderate fire to raise them. Butter and rice Wegpcap 
 a quick oven. 
 
 Sago, and all sorts of seedae should be well edie 
 and lie in water for an hour, to take off the Se 8 or 
 other taste belonging to them. 
 
 - Such as contain suet and raisins, should have a well- 
 heated, but not a fierce oven. 
 
 VERMICELLE Puppine.—Boil a quarter oft a, puted of 
 vermicelli in a quart of new milk, until the vermicelli 
 has soaked up the milk, then put it into a basin or tart- 
 pan, with two ounces of butrte, eight eggs, leaving out 
 three whites; beat the eggs well, add sugar and brandy 
 to them; mix well with the vexcivelhe and either bake 
 or ier it. If baked, Ses puff paste on the edge ee the 
 dis 
 
 N.B. Boil a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, and brates 
 in a little milk by itself, then strain it to the vermicelli; 
 if the nutmeg were to be grated in the pudding, if 
 boiled, it would appear like dirt, but by boiling it in the 
 milk it gives the flavour, which is all that is required. — 
 . Casrner Puppinc.—Put some raisins in your mould 
 in lines, then take half a pound of ratafia cakes and 
 sponge cakes to be soaked in cream, four eggs, candied 
 orange and lemon-peel, to be eut, two wine-glasses of 
 brandy, and not much sugar; then put it into the mould 
 without disturbing the raisins. Let it boil an hour, and 
 serve it with rich wine sauce. 
 
 Curar Puppine.—Put a pint of milk to boil, and in 
 it a quarter of the rind of a lemon, and a stick of cinna- 
 mon. Let these boil durmg ten minutes; then take 
 out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, pour the boiling milk 
 over the crumb of two Freneh rolls, and let the whole 
 soak until it has become a pap. Rub it then through a 
 sieve, milk and all. When it is quite cold, add to it 
 five eggs beaten as for an omelet, and likewise a table- 
 
PUDDINGS. OTS 
 
 spoonful of brandy. Mix the whole well together, and 
 sweeten it with sifted loaf sugar; pour it into a baking- 
 dish, and put over it a quarter of a pound of very fresh 
 butter melted with three table-spoonfuls of cream. Bake 
 it in'a moderate oven; it will take about half an 
 hour. 
 
 _ Lemon 5 —The juice of a lemon and the 
 rind, chopped very fine, two eggs, a quarter of a pound 
 of heel suet, quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, quarter of 
 a pound of bread grated. To be boiled twenty minutes 
 in a cloth. 
 
 Currese Puppinc.—Grate one pound of cheese, aS 
 to it eight eggs well beaten, half a pint of fresh milk, 
 two ounces of butter with a little salt; mix all together. 
 Put it into a dish and bake it. 
 
 Breap Puppine.—Take a pint of bread- crumbs, put 
 
 shes into a stew-pan with as much milk as will cover 
 them, add the peel of a lemon, a little nutmeg grated, 
 and a bit of cinnamon; boil about ten minutes, sweeten 
 with powdered sugar; take the cinnamon out, and put 
 in four eggs; beat all well together and bake half an 
 hour, or boil rather more than an hour. 
 . Ricr Pupprne.— Boil a couple of spoonfuls of ground 
 rice diluted in a pint of milk; pouritinto adish; beat up 
 the yolks of six eggs with guiicidnt sugar, and a table- 
 spoonful of orange-flower water; pour it over the rice 
 milk, grate some nutmeg over it, and bake it. Rice 
 pudding may be also made by boiling some whole Ame- 
 rican rice in milk till reduced to a pap, and adding eges 
 and sugar as above directed. 
 
 Pium Puppine should be made with little if any 
 flour, but with grated stale bread. Three quarters of a 
 pound of bread, a quarter of a pound of flour, a 
 pound of suet, three quarters of a pound of raisins, 
 lemon-peel, one egg, some pounded sugar, some pounded 
 cinnamon and mace, all the latter ingredients according 
 to the taste and experience of the cook, a glass. of 
 white wine, and milk, to make it of a proper consist- 
 ency. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
216 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Roxu Puppinc.—Boil a stick of cinnamon in a pint 
 of fresh milk; take it out, and pour the milk boiling 
 hot into a pie-dish upon a stale French roll. Let this 
 stand till itis quite cold, then beat up the yolks of four 
 egos with sugar to taste, and a small tea-spoonful of 
 orange-flower, or rose water, and pour it upon the roll ; 
 grate nutmeg over it, and set it in the oven, When of 
 a nice colour and firm it is done. 
 
 BreaD AND Burrer Puppinc.—Make a custard of 
 an egg and half a pint of milk, by boiling the milk with 
 a little lemon-peel and sugar, and beating up the egg in 
 it, putting it on the fire to thicken; then butter slices 
 of bread or French roll, and soak them for an hour or 
 two in this mixture; then lay them in a dish, sprinkling 
 currants washed, dried, and picked, between each layer, 
 and a little pounded sugar, putting some sweetmeats on 
 the top, and pour over it another half pint of milk, beaten 
 up with two eggs. The cold fat of a loi of veal may 
 be used instead of butter or marrow. | 
 
 Marrow Puppinc.—Four ounces of marrow, four of 
 biscuits, three of jar raisins stoned, candied orange-peel, 
 sugar and nutmeg to the taste; place these articles in 
 layers in a dish surrounded by paste; then beat up 
 four eggs, leaving out the whites of two, in half a pint 
 of cream or good milk, and pour it over the other in- 
 gredients. It will take an hour and a half to bake. 
 
 YORKSHIRE PuppiInG UNDER Roast Meat ( Gipsy’s 
 way ).—Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and a pint of milk, so as to make a 
 middlingly stiff batter, a little stiffer than you would for 
 pancakes; beat it up well, and take care it is not lumpy; 
 put a dish under the meat, and let the drippings drop 
 into it till it is quite hot and well greased; then pour in 
 the batter. When the upper surface is brown and set, 
 turn it, that both sides may be brown alike; if you wish 
 it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, it will 
 take two hours at a good fire. The true Yorkshire 
 pudding is much thinner than in the south, it is about 
 half an inch thick when done; but it is the fashion 
 
PUDDINGS. | 217 
 4 
 
 in London to make Yorkshire puddings twice that thick- 
 ness. 
 
 Breap AND Burrer Puppine (Another way).— 
 Take a dish that will hold a quart, and well butter it; 
 have a quarter of a pound of currants, and strew some of 
 them over the bottom of the dish; then cut nine pieces of 
 bread and butter, and make three layers of them, strew- 
 ing currants between each layer, beat five eggs, leaving 
 out the whites of two, and mix them, and half a drachm 
 of nutmeg, and the same quantity of lemon-peel grated, 
 and three ounces of moist sugar in a pint of new milk. 
 This mixture to be poured over it before it is put in the 
 ‘oven. It should be baked one hour. A glass of white 
 wine is an improvement. 
 
 Nutmec Puppine.—The yolks of six eggs beaten 
 with four spoonfuls of rose water, three quarters of a 
 pound of fresh butter, two nutmegs, or the same weight 
 in mace, four Naples biscuits or rusks, grated in three 
 quarters of a pound of sugar sifted, and beaten up with 
 the butter, three oranges grated, and tied up in a piece 
 of muslin, with several hot waters thrown to it, to ex- 
 tract the bitter from it; beat up altogether; put a paste 
 at the bottom of the dish. 
 
 Branpy Puppinc.—Take some thin slices of bread, 
 and soak them in the best French brandy, then put a 
 layer in a buttered mould, and some few raisins stoned, 
 and a little orange peel alternately, till the shape is ra- 
 ther more than half full. Have ready a good cus- 
 tard to fill up to the top, put a buttered paper over, 
 and then tie itina cloth. A quart shape should boil an 
 hour. 
 
 Tapioca Puppinc.—One quart of cold milk, six 
 table-spoonfuls of tapioca, set on the fire, and stir it till 
 it boils; add one ounce and a half of powdered loaf 
 sugar, and set it on the trivet, and let it boil a quarter 
 of an hour, stirring occasionally ; take it off and turn it 
 into a pan or basin, and stir in immediately one ounce of 
 fresh butter and three eggs well beaten; pour it into a 
 buttered pie or pudding dish, and bake gently one 
 
218 PUDDINGS. 
 & 
 
 hour. This pudding may be boiled for an hour and 
 a half, adding two eggs. In either case it is better 
 to prepare the tapioca early enough for it to be quite 
 cold before baking or boiling, and if boiled it must 
 stand a full quarter of an hour after it is taken up, 
 or it will not turn out whole. Itis a very delicate looking 
 pudding when boiled and ornamented with red jelly. 
 
 - Tue BAKEWELL oR DERBYSHIRE PuppInc.—Having 
 covered a dish with thin puff paste, put a layer of any 
 kind of jam about half an inch thick, then take the 
 yolks of eight eggs, and two white, half a pound of 
 sugar, half a pound of melted butter, and almond to 
 taste, beat all well together, mixing with them three’ 
 ounces of candied citron or orange rind, pour these in- 
 gredients into the dish an inch thick, and bake it about 
 an hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 . A Puarn Lemon Puppina. Thiel juice of three 
 lemons, the peel of one rubbed off with sugar, six 
 ounces of loaf sugar pounded (excepting what has been 
 used for the lemon-peel) a good-sized tea-cupful of 
 bread crumbs while it is soaking together, beat up four 
 eggs, leaving out two whites; melt one ounce of fresh 
 butter and mix all well together, trim and edge a dish 
 with puff paste, pour in the above, and bake in a quick 
 oven for three quarters of an hour. 
 
 » Dr. KircHEener’s Puppine.—Beat up the yolks and 
 whites of three eggs; strain them through a sieve, and 
 gradually add to them about a quarter of a pint. of 
 milk, stir these well together; rub together in a mortar 
 two ounces of moist sugar, and as much grated nutmeg 
 as will lie on a sixpence; stir these into the eggs and 
 milk, then put in four ounces of flour, and beat it into a 
 smooth batter; by degrees stir into it seven ounces of 
 finely minced meat, and three ounces of bread-crumbs, 
 mix all thoroughly ‘together at least half an hour before 
 you put the pudding into the pot; put it into an earth-: 
 enware pudding mould that you have well buttered; tie 
 ' a pudding cloth over it very tight, put it into eigen 
 water, and boil it for three hours. 
 
 
 
PUDDINGS. 219 
 
 Rataria Puppine.—Put a pint of milk and a pint 
 of cream into a stew-pan, with the peel of two lemons, a 
 little cinnamon and sugar, set it on the fire, and let it 
 boil for half an hour, then strain it into a basin, and put 
 the crumbs of two French rolls in it, then butter a 
 Savoy cake; mould very well, and stick dried cherries 
 according. to fancy, then put half a pound of rata- 
 fias in the mould; break ten eggs in a basin, and beat 
 them up well, then put the eggs to the boiled milk, 
 cream and rolls, stir it well, so as to bind the eggs, 
 milk, and rolls together, then put it in the mould 
 that has the ratafias in; ginger soufflé; pour wine 
 sauce on it. Bs 
 
 A Puppine.—To half a pint of good milk add four 
 eggs, well beaten, a tea-cupful of white sugar, a little 
 mace and cinnamon, the rind of a lemon, a little juice, 
 a little white wine, mix all well together, and bake them 
 in. cups. These puddings are equally good boiled; turn 
 them out when done, and pour the following sauce over 
 them. ‘To a little cream, flour and butter boiled up, put 
 the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and a little wine, 
 sugar, and lemon-peel; do not let it boil after the wine 
 is put in or it will curdle. 
 _ Cake Puppines.— Weigh two eggs, the same weight 
 of pounded loaf sugar, flour, and butter. The sugar 
 must be finely sifted; beat the butter to a cream, and 
 mix the butter and sugar together ; then add the flour, 
 and afterwards the eggs: having previously beaten 
 them very well, this done, let all be beaten well to- 
 gether. The cakes will rise much in baking, there- 
 fore you must only fill your cups a little more than 
 half full. These proportions will make five or six little 
 puddings. Serve up with wine sauce. Twenty minutes 
 
 will do them. 
 _. N.B. The eggs to be weighed in their shells. 
 
 A Rice anp Frurr Puppinc.—Wash a sufficient 
 quantity of rice, put a little water to it, and set in the 
 oven till the water is absorbed ; then put in a little milk, 
 work it well with a spoon, set it in the oven again, and 
 
220 PUDDINGS. 
 
 keep working it from time to time till it is sufficiently 
 soft. A little cream worked in at last is an improvement. 
 Fill a tart-dish nearly full of fruit, sweeten it, and lay 
 on the rice unevenly by spoonfuls; bake it till the rice 
 has a light brown or fawn colour on the surface. 
 
 SEMOLINA Puppinc.—Take from one quart of milk 
 enough to mix with one ounce of arrow-root, boil the 
 remainder, and pour on the arrow-root, sprinkle and 
 stir in three ounces of semolina, three tea-spoonfuls 
 of sugar, one table-spoonful of orange-flower water; let 
 this be cold, and then add two eggs well beaten and 
 stirred in; butter the dish, and put a small piece on the 
 top. Bake it one hour in a moderate oven. 
 
 SeEMoLINA Puppinc.—Take a bottle of milk, place 
 it to boil with a very little salt, and four ounces of but- 
 ter; when it boils, put six ounces of the semolina, and stir it 
 about with a wooden spoon for half an hour, in order that 
 the semolina be well done; put six ounces of sugar, and 
 let the whole boil, that the sugar may be incorporated ; 
 let it stand, and when cool, take six eggs, leaving the 
 whites out; put the yolks to the semolina, stir the whole 
 well; move the whites of the eggs, and when they are 
 solid, put them to the semolina, and stir the whole again 
 a good deal; then grate in an orange or lemon to give 
 it a flavour. Take a mould, well buttered, and dim it 
 with bread-crumbs very fine; put the whole into the 
 mould, and place it in the oven, which must not be too 
 hot, so that the pudding may be brought on by degrees 
 till it is done. This must be done about an hour pre- 
 — to the serving it up, that it may not be over- 
 
 one. 
 
 To MAKE A PLAIN SemMoLINA Puppinc BAKED.— 
 Mix an ounce of arrow-root with a little cold milk, 
 quite smooth; then gradually pour in one quart of boil- 
 ing milk; drill in three ounces of semolina; let it stand 
 till cold. Stir in two eggs, well beaten; add sugar and 
 flavouring of lemon-peel, spice, orange-flower water, or 
 any other preferred, and bake one hour. : 
 
 To MAKE A RIcH Semotina Puppinc BaKxep.-—To 
 
PUDDINGS. 221 
 
 a quart of new milk put six ounces of semolina, four 
 ounces of sugar, a grain of salt, a pat of butter, and 
 the rind of a lemon and a small stick of cinnamon tied 
 together. Stir these over the fire for ten minutes ; then 
 take them off, and, after allowing the batter to cool for 
 two or three minutes, mix with it the yolks of two eggs; 
 whip the whites in a basin with a wire whisk, and mix 
 them also in the batter. Pour it into a lightly- buttered 
 tart-dish, and bake the pudding in a moderately-heated 
 oven for twenty or five-and-twenty minutes. Having 
 powdered it over with fine sugar, pass the red-hot sala- 
 mander over it a few times, which will give it a bright 
 glazed appearance. | 
 
 To MAKE A Borep Semouina Puppine.—To a 
 pint of milk add four ounces of semolina; stir them to- 
 gether in a sauce-pan over the fire till they thicken, and 
 then let them stand till cold. Add three eggs, sugar, 
 and flavouring; put the whole in a basiu or mould, and 
 boil for an hour. 
 
 To MAKE A RICH SEMOLINA Puppinc STEAMED.— 
 To a quart of milk put half a pound of semolina, two 
 pats of butter, four ounces of sugar, a grain of salt, and 
 a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, or other flavour- 
 ing; stir these on the fire for ten minutes. After allow- 
 ing the batter to cool for two or three minutes, add the 
 yolks of six eggs; and, having first whipped four of the 
 whites, add these also, and pour into a plain mould 
 lightly but thoroughly buttered, and then bread-crumbed 
 for the purpose. Set the mould in a deep stew-pan, 
 two inches deep in hot water, cover the stew-pan with 
 its lid, upon which place some red-hot embers of char- 
 coal; place it over a very small charcoal fire, or in the 
 oven, taking care that the water boils only fast enough 
 to produce a moderate quantity of steam. After steam- 
 ing from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, wipe the 
 mould with a napkin, and having set it on a dish, draw 
 it off the pudding carefully yet quickly. Pour the fol- 
 lowing sauce over the pudding : 
 
 SAUCE FOR LIGHT Puppines.—Into a small stew- 
 
222 3 PUDDINGS. 
 
 pan put the yolks of three eggs, two ounces of ein 
 sugar, little grated nutmeg or cinnamon, the grated rind 
 of a lemon or orange, and two glasses of white wine. 
 Set the stew-pan in one somewhat larger, containing a 
 little hot water, so as to form a shallow bath; put 
 them on a moderate charcoal fire, and, with a wire 
 wisk, keep whipping the sauce till it becomes of a — 
 thick white Creaiays substance, when it may be ee as 
 directed. 
 
 - A Semouina Caxke.—- Follow the neds given for 
 a steamed semolina pudding; place the mould on a 
 baking sheet, and put it in an oven to bake for three- 
 quarters of an hour or an hour. Turn the mould upside 
 down on a dish, and draw it carefully off. With this 
 kind of cake may be served a fruit sauce as directed in 
 page 171. 
 
 Porato Puppinc.—Two pounds of potatoes sceieshiol 
 when boiled, broken fine, two table-spoonfuls of flour, 
 half a pound of suet, shred fine, four eggs, with the 
 whites, six ounces of sugar, lemon-peel, a small eee 
 tity of brandy. Bake it in a quick oven. 
 
 Baxep AprrLE Puppinc.—One dozen large anelie 
 pared and grated, half of a pound of butter melted, five 
 eggs, one lemon grated, and the juice put in, quarter of a 
 pound of sugar. Twenty minutes will bake it; a good 
 puff paste put round the dish. Green gooseberries, 
 coddled and washed, may be done the same. 
 
 OrancE Puppinc.—Grate the rind of a Seville 
 
 orange, put to it six ounces of fresh butter, six ounces of 
 sugar ; beat it ina marble mortar, and add as you beat it, 
 the yolks of eight eggs, well beaten and strained ; put a 
 puff paste round and at the bottom of the dish. Half an 
 hour will bake it. 
 - CUMBERLAND Puppines.—A large tea-cupful of rice 
 boiled for half an. hour in a pint of Madeira, ratafia 
 drops two ounces, eau-de-vie a wine glass, nutmeg and 
 sugar to taste, yolks of six eggs well beaten together, 
 puff paste, baked. 
 
 A ricH PLum Puppinc.—One pound of beef suet, 
 
PUDDINGS. 223 
 
 one pound of raisins, stoned, four spoonfuls of sugar, four 
 spoonfuls of flour, four spoonfuls of cream, eight eggs, 
 with only half the whites, half a nutmeg. Boil it six 
 hours. 
 
 Pium Puppine (Another way).—Half a pound of 
 raisins, half a pound of grated bread, half a pound of 
 currants, one ounce of candied peel, two ounces of 
 butter, melted, and quarter of a pound of raw sugar. - 
 . Three eggs, a little milk, if too stiff, and one table- 
 spoonful of brandy. It cannot be boiled too long. 
 
 - Pxium Puppine (Another way).—Half a pound of cur- 
 
 rants, half a pound of raisins, chopped fine, half a pound 
 of bread grated, half a pound of beef suet, chopped fine, 
 two apples grated, one or two large spoonfuls of sugar, 
 pounded, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, a very little salt, 
 one ounce of orange-peel candied, one ounce of lemon- 
 peel, cut about an inch thick, eight eggs, half of the 
 whites only, a glass and a half of pale brandy, and a 
 little white wine. It will take four hours to boil. 
 
 Tapioca Puppine (Another fashion).—Two ounces 
 
 of tapioca, three pints of milk, one ounce of butter, four 
 eggs, sweeten it to your taste; a piece of lemon-peel or 
 nutmeg: should be boiled in the milk. 
 - CasineT Puppine (Another way).—Boil a pint of 
 cream, in which infuse a little lemon peel and a little 
 salt. Pour the creain while boiling over half a pound 
 of Naples biscuits and let them soak. Next add the 
 yolks of eight eggs, then beat the whites of four eggs; 
 butter a mould and decorate it ornamentally with stoned 
 raisins. Pour the above preparation into the mould, and 
 steam it three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Corrace Pupprines.—Boil half a pound of butter in 
 a quart of milk till melted, then pour it on half a pound 
 of bread-crumbs, half a pound of sugar, half a pound 
 of currants; let them stand till nearly cold, then add six 
 eggs, with half a large nutmeg. 
 
224 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 FricasstE or Ecos.—Take what number of eggs 
 you please, boil them twenty minutes, then put them 
 into cold water for a few minutes, to set the yolk to the 
 white (or it will break to pieces), then take off the shells 
 and cut them into halves and quarters; take some rich 
 gravy, to which add a little chopped parsley, thyme, 
 nutmeg, cinnamon, white pepper, and salt; thicken the 
 gravy with flour and butter; make it boil before you put 
 the eggs in, and then put them in for about three mi- 
 nutes, if longer they will turn black. 
 
 PoacHED Ecas.—Boil in a stew-pan some water 
 with a little salt and vinegar in it. The eggs must be 
 quite fresh; break and open the end of a shell with a 
 knife, in order that the yolk may not break as it falls 
 into the water, which it must be made to do as gently as 
 possible, turning the shell, so that all the white shall be 
 gathered round the yolk. Be careful that the eggs are 
 not poached hard; when done, take them out, one by 
 one, and put them into cold water. Pare them nicely in 
 the water, and also rub your finger over them, that they 
 may be smooth. 
 
 Eaes EN Cuemise.—Place a number of poached eggs 
 on a dish, with a slice of toasted bread under each. 
 Place the dish in an oven till the eggs are warm; but 
 they must be watched lest they harden ; then pour into 
 the dish some thick gravy, flavoured with a little lemon- 
 uice. 
 
 : Eecs on THE Disu.—Break six or eight eggs side 
 by side into a plate upon two ounces of fresh butter 
 cut in little bits, and strewed over the plate; put this 
 latter over an uncovered stew-pan, half full of boiling 
 water, and place it over the fire. The plate must serve 
 
EGGS. 225 
 
 as the lid of the stew-pan; cover the eggs with an- 
 other plate, and in a short time they will be done by 
 the steam. Strew a little pepper and salt over them, 
 and send them up. They may be accompanied or not, 
 with a few toasted rashers of bacon, or some broiled 
 slices of ham. 
 
 Burrerep Eccs.—Beat four or five eggs, yolk and 
 white together ; put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 in a basin ; then set it in boiling water, stir it till melted, 
 then pour it with the eggs into a saucepan, keep a 
 basin in one hand, and hold the saucepan in the other, 
 over a slow fire, shaking it one way, as it begins to 
 warm; pour it into the basin, and then back again, 
 hold it over the fire, stirring it constantly in the sauce- 
 ‘pan, and pouring it frequently into the basin to prevent 
 it curdling, and to mix the eggs and butter till they are 
 boiling hot. 
 
 Serve on toasted bread; or use it as sauce to salt fish 
 or red herrings. 
 
 EGGs FRIED wiTH Bacon.—Lay some slices of fine 
 streaked bacon (not more than a quarter of an inch 
 thick) m a clean dish, and toast them before the fire 
 in a cheese - toaster, turning them when the upper 
 side is browned. First ask those who are to eat the 
 bacon, if they wish it much or little done, 2. e. curled 
 and crisp, or mellow and soft; if the latter, parboil it 
 first. 
 
 Well-cleansed dripping or lard, or fresh butter, are 
 the best materials for frying eggs in. 
 
 Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean; when the fat 
 is hot, break two or three eggs into it; do not turn 
 them, but, while they are frying, keep pouring some of 
 the fat over them with a spoon. When the yolk just 
 begins to look white, which it will in about a couple of 
 minutes, they are done enough; the white must not 
 lose its transparency, but the yolk, says Kitchener, ‘“ be 
 seen blushing through it.” If they are done nicely, 
 they will look as white and delicate as if they had been 
 
 Q 
 
2°6 EGGS. 
 
 poached; take them up with a tin slice, drain the fat 
 from them, trim them neatly, and send them up with 
 the bacon round them. 
 
 To MAKE A HASTY DisH oF Eaes. — Beat six 
 eggs well, then pour them into a sauce-pan; hold 
 it over the fire till they begin to get thick; keep 
 stirring from the bottom all the time; then put in 
 a bit of fresh butter the size of a walnut ; stir it about 
 till the eggs and butter are thoroughly mixed, and 
 abe eggs quite dry ; put it on a plate, and serve it 
 
 ot. 
 
 To Fry Eccs wirn Sausaces.—Fry the sausages 
 first; pour the fat out of the pan, and put in a bit of 
 butter; when it is quite hot, put in the eggs; keep 
 them separate, and set the pan over the fire, but not 
 very near; let the heat increase very slowly; when they 
 are done on one side, turn them carefully on the other 
 with a broad-pointed knife; and when quite done, take 
 them up with a slice. 
 
 Ciurs a LA NrIcE, or Snow Eaes, form a very fa- 
 vourite entremet in France, which is seldom seen at an 
 English table. It has an elegant appearance, and may 
 be prepared at very little expense. Whip the whites of 
 eight eggs until they form a very thick froth, which 
 will take at least half an hour; put a pint and a half of 
 milk to boil, and when it boils place upon its surface as 
 many table-spoonfuls of the whipped whites of eggs as 
 will stand upon it without touching each other; as each 
 spoonful becomes cooked and assumes the appearance of 
 snow, take it off and put on another, until all the 
 whipped egg is done. As you take off the snow from 
 the milk, put it on a hair sieve to drain; when all the 
 snow is done, add to the milk a bit of lemon-peel, and 
 sugar enough to sweeten it well. As soon as it has 
 acquired the flavour of lemon-peel, stir into it the yolks 
 of the eight eggs beaten up with a table-spoonful of 
 orange-flower water ; when of proper consistency, but 
 not so thick as cream, pour it into a cream-dish. After 
 
 
 

 
 EGGS. 227 
 
 it is cold put the snow on the surface, to mask the 
 sauce. » ; 
 
 Eaes (Grandmother's way).—Put six yolks of eggs 
 in a stew-pan, season them with salt, a little pepper, and 
 nutmeg, mix and stir them with good gravy, and strain 
 them through a sieve; then put a stew-pan with water 
 on a stove, and put the dish you will serve your 
 eggs in over it, so that the dish touch the water, 
 put your eggs in that dish, and cover it with another 
 dish, and put a little fire on it. Your eggs being 
 fastened, put a little veal gravy over them, and serve hot 
 for a by-dish. Another time you may dress them with 
 broth. 
 
 Eaa@s with SorreL.— Take sorrel and a few lettuce, 
 pick and wash them, put them on a table, and give them 
 a few cuts with a knife; put them in a stew-pan with 
 a bit of butter, parsley, and chives hashed (mush- 
 rooms if you have any), season with salt and pepper, 
 put all on the fire, and let it stew slowly, being almost 
 dry, powder with a pinch of flour, and wet it with gravy 
 or broth; then make a binding with yolks of eggs pro- 
 portionable to your quantity of sorrel, mix your binding 
 with cream or milk, and put a little nutmeg to it, and 
 some small bits of butter; bind your sorrel, observe it 
 be of a good taste, dress it in the dish you will serve it 
 in, put some hard eggs over it cut in two or four pieces; 
 the yolks of your eggs should not be quite hard. You 
 may put under these eggs some endives, lettuce, cucum- 
 bers, celery, heads of asparagus, and young peas, when 
 in season, or a white sauce. 
 
 Scorcu Eces.—Boil five pullets’ eggs hard, take off 
 the shells, and, without removing the white, cover them 
 completely with a fine relishing force-meat. Fry them 
 of a fine light brown, and serve with good gravy in the 
 dish. 
 
 Eee@s wit Cerery.—Take three or four heads of 
 celery, boil them in a white water, which is made with 
 water, flour, butter, and salt; being boiled let them 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 EGGS. 
 
 drain, cut them in slices, and put them in a stew-pan 
 with clear cullis of fish, and let them soak half an hour 
 on the fire, bind it quite with a cullis of lobsters, or 
 some other cullis, and a little piece of butter as large as 
 a nut, stir it always on the fire; let your ragodt be of 
 a good taste; put a little vinegar to it, and dress it in a 
 dish, put your poached eggs over them, and serve them 
 hot. 
 When you will not make use of poached eggs make 
 use of hard ones, which you peel, and choose the finest, 
 cut them in half, your ragoft of celery being at the 
 bottom of your dish, garnish the brim of your dish with 
 your eggs cut in two. You may serve them also with 
 a ragoit of endive, lettuce, or sorrel. 
 
 Piain OMELET.—Break twelve eggs into a basin, 
 add salt, and a little water; beat the eggs with a whisk 
 or two forks, they must be well beaten; put into a 
 frying-pan the size of an egg of butter, melt it without 
 browning; pour in the omelet, continuing to beat it, 
 put it on a clear quick fire, beat principally the side 
 next the handle, shake the omelet well, and do not 
 let it burn: when it is nearly done, slip under it a 
 bit of butter the size of a walnut, when melted, roll 
 it over to see if it is of a good colour, turn it out on 
 a dish and serve. If it is to be seasoned with herbs, 
 put in parsley and small onions hashed fine, and a little 
 pepper. 
 
 Eces wit Lerrucre. — Take cabbage - lettuce, 
 blanch them, and press them well, cut them in slices, 
 and fry them in a stew-pan, with a little fresh butter, 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and let them soak half an hour on a slow fire; 
 being done, take off the fat, and bind them with a 
 cullis of fish; take fresh eggs, fry them in brown but- 
 ter, order and pare them about with your knife. Mind 
 that your ragodt of lettuce be-of a good taste, dress 
 i in a dish, lay your fried eggs upon it, and serve it up 
 
 ot. ' 
 
 
 

 
 EGGS. 229 
 
 Eecs witH Enpive. — Blanch some endive, press 
 it well, give it two or three cuts with a knife, and put 
 it in a stew-pan, wet it with a little fish-broth, and 
 season it with pepper, salt, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs; let it soak on the fire for about half an hour, 
 and bind it with a cullis of fish; let your eggs be 
 poached in butter, and cleaned all round. Lay your 
 ese well coloured in order upon the endive, and serve 
 
 ot. 
 
230 
 
 SAVOURY PIES 
 
 REQUIRE great care, particularly in respect to season- 
 ing, which cannot be well done according to rule, but 
 must depend on the taste of the maker. If intended to 
 be eaten cold, suet must be avoided. Force-meatis a 
 considerable improvement. 
 
 An ExcreLLent Gravy For Savoury Pirs.—Take 
 some strong gravy, claret, four anchovies, an onion, and 
 some sweet herbs; boil together, and thicken with floured 
 butter ; when done, pour it into your pies, after they are 
 baked. 
 
 Potato Pre (Cornish Fashion).—Slice potatoes, and 
 adding a proper quantity of beef-steak or mutton-chops, 
 not too fat, place them in a baking-dish, seasoning them 
 with pepper and salt, and adding a sufficient quantity of 
 water, cover the whole with a proper crust, taking care to 
 make a hole in the centre of the crust for the steam to 
 escape. 
 
 Turnip AND Potato Pir (Cornish fashion).—Slice 
 turnips in the same way as the potatoes in equal quanti- 
 ties and proceed as before. 
 
 A Potato Pasty ( West Country fashion).—In the 
 West, pasties are distinguished from pies, by being 
 made solely of crust externally, no dish is used. The 
 potatoes and meat are placed on dough after it is rolled 
 out, the whole is then united, the edges being brought 
 in contract in this form <>. No water is put into them. 
 Baked on an iron sheet. 
 
 A Hoaaan (A Cornish dish).—This is a pasty with 
 meat only—beef, mutton, or venison, closed as the pasty 
 is, exactly. They were first adopted, we imagine, by 
 ie miners, for convenience of carriage to their distant 
 abour. 
 

 
 SAVOURY PIES. 231 
 
 Concer Pre (Cornish dish).—The conger is adopted 
 in place of the mackerel above, it is a fish of five and six 
 feet in length in Cornwall, and as large round as a man’s 
 arm of middle size. 
 
 Baxep Bream (Cornish dish),—This is a broad- 
 
 scaled fish. It is stuffed with bread, parsley, &c., and 
 sent to be baked upon a small trivet in a coarse dish. 
 A couple sent to the oven thus stuffed are good eating. 
 - Macxaren Pre (Cornish dish).—When the macka- 
 rel are cleaned, cut off the heads and tails, then cut them 
 in three pieces across, and lay them in the dish with 
 pepper, nutmeg, and salt, for seasoning, and water for 
 gravy. When ready, put in a little water through the 
 hole in the centre, and serve up. 
 
 Cyrus Reppine’s Leek Pre (West Country dish). 
 — Procure good leeks, cut them in pieces of about half, 
 or two-thirds of an inch in depth. Place them in a dish 
 with water, pepper, mutton, and salt. When ready to 
 serve up, use milk as before. 
 
 - Leek AnD AppLe Pie (Cornish dish).—As above, 
 with equal quantities of apples and leeks. Milk is not 
 to be used. 
 
 N.B. Only the white part of the leeks is used, not 
 the green or top parts. 
 ~ Turnip Pie (West Country dish).— This is made 
 with turnips and mutton solely treated as before. If 
 the turnips are good this is a great delicacy. Neither 
 the turnips nor potatoes should be so thinly sliced as to 
 lose their form when served at table. The mutton 
 should not be too fat. . 
 
 Parstey Pir (West Country dish).—The parsley 
 should be carefully picked, so that no weed be among 
 it, then parboiled, and put into a dish for baking with 
 veal. The parsley required will be considerable. Water 
 (not too much), should be added for gravy, with a little 
 salt. Clouted cream is eaten with it in the west. A 
 little raw cream poured in at the top when serving up, 
 will do equally well. Sometimes spinach and parsley 
 are put, equally divided. 
 
232 
 
 POTTING AND CURING. 
 
 To Por LtiTTLe Brrps.— When picked and ready for — 
 cooking, put them into a jar with a little water and but- 
 ter, and let them remain three hours in an oven; mix 
 up some butter and spice, and put some of it in each of 
 the birds; then put them into pots, and pour melted but- 
 ter over them. 
 
 PottEep Veau.—One pound of roast veal, a quarter of 
 a pound of ham, twelve ounces of butter, pound them 
 all in a mortar, and season it with white and Cayenne 
 pepper, salt, cloves, and, if you like, a little garlic or 
 shalots; put it into dishes, and pour a little hot melted 
 butter on the top to keep it. . 
 
 Baxep Brrr.—Take a round of beef of the com- 
 mon size, rub into one pound of coarse brown sugar, let . 
 it remain twenty-four hours ; then put on one pound of 
 saltpetre, one pound of common salt, which must be 
 well rubbed in, turn in every day for a fortnight or more; 
 then stuff it with parsley, suet, white and Cayenne pep- 
 per, and salt (shalots or onions if you like, or any other 
 herb), bind it up as for collaring, and put it into a deep 
 pan with a small quantity of water, cover it up close 
 with a lid, and put it in an oven for twenty-four hours ; 
 the oven to be heated only as for bread; not to be eaten 
 till cold. 
 
 For Portine Beer.—Take your beef, which should 
 be from the rump, cut it, without much fat, into thick, 
 square pieces, and put it into a jar with some mace, three 
 cloves, three pats of butter, and a cup full of water; 
 send it to the oven for three hours, and when taken out, 
 before it becomes cold, take the beef out of the jar from. 
 the gravy ; the gravy should be kept by itself, and when 
 
POTTING AND CURING. 233 
 
 cold, take away some of the fat; heat your beef when 
 cold and hard enough, and add mace, cloves, nutmeg, 
 Cayenne pepper, white pepper, and salt; put it into 
 little pots, pressing it down closely ; when you have half 
 filled your pots, put a little of the gravy and butter to 
 settle it, then fill the pot with butter, well oiled, whilst 
 melting. 
 
 ScarLtet Berr.—Take the middle piece of a brisket 
 of beef and rub it with two ounces of saltpetre. Let it 
 lay twenty-four hours, then rub it well with common 
 salt, and let it lay eight days. Serve it up with savoy 
 cabbage, an onion, a few cloves, a slice of ham and 
 vinegar to be stewed with the cabbage. 
 
 For Curtnc Hams.—Let them hang two or three 
 days, then rub them well with common salt and let 
 them lay two days, then put them into the following 
 pickle : 
 
 To three gallons of water put four pounds of common 
 
 salt, one pound of bay salt, one pound of brown sugar, 
 three ounces of salt prunella, which quantity is suffi- 
 ‘cient for two large hams. After boiling these ingre- 
 dients together half an hour, when cold, put the hams 
 into the pickle, turning them every day for three weeks; 
 then hang them up to dry, and when dry sew them up in 
 calico or coarse paper; if kept long steep them in cold 
 water all the night before use. 
 
 Mutton Ham.—One pound of coarse sugar, one 
 pound of coarse salt, and one ounce of saltpetre, mix 
 them well together, let the leg hang four days in 
 winter, rub in the pickle two or three times a day 
 for a fortnight, soak it before boiling one night ; boil 
 it an hour and a half. When the fortnight is over 
 =e the leg up in a brown paper bag to dry by the 
 
 re. 
 
 AnotHER Murton Ham.—Cut a hind quarter of 
 mutton like a ham; then take an ounce of saltpetre, a 
 | pound of coarse sugar, a pound of common salt ; mix 
 
 _ them and rub the ham, lay it in a hollow tray with the 
 
 
 
234 POTTING AND CURING. 
 
 skin downwards, baste it every day for a fortnight, then 
 roll it in sawdust, and hang it in wood smoke for a 
 fortnight; now boil it, and hang it in a dry place, and 
 cut it out in rashers. It does not eat well boiled, but 
 eats finely broiled. 
 
 Pork Hams ScaLpEp.—Hang the ham a day or 
 two, then sprinkle it with a little salt, and drain it 
 another day. | 
 
 Three quarters of a pound of saltpetre, three quarters 
 of a pound of bay salt, half an ounce of salt prunell; 
 one pound of coarse brown sugar. Mix these well, and 
 rub it into the ham every day for six days, and turn it 
 
 every day for three weeks; but don’t rub it after the 
 
 six days. Before you dry it drain and cover it with 
 bran, smoked or dried as you like, for ten or twelve 
 days. 
 
 iiodimeae from unforeseen circumstances a tongue 
 cannot be dressed that has been in pickle three weeks or 
 a mouth (after the latter period it deteriorates) the best 
 plan is to boil it for the usual time, and set it by with the 
 skin on. It will keep well thus for a fortnight or three 
 weeks, and, when wanted to be dressed, may be put into 
 cold water and boiled ; the whole time occupying an 
 hour. The under fat of a tongue, when fresh pickled, is 
 very much esteemed; but when it has been five or six 
 weeks in pickle, or if it have been dried and hung, even 
 for a week, this fat becomes rancid, tallowy, and dis- 
 agreeable, not to say unwholesome. By the above plan 
 these faults are avoided, and the tongue may be dressed 
 and eaten on the shortest notice. 
 
 PickLED Pork is usually eaten boiled, and bacon in 
 various known ways. ‘To prepare bacon for eating with 
 boiled green peas, or indeed with fowl! or veal, the follow- 
 ing is the best recipe we know: | 
 
 To Dress Bacon.—When the bacon is about two- 
 thirds boiled, take it up, cut off the rind, cover its upper 
 surface with raspings as you do that of ham, and put it 
 into a Dutch oven before the fire; there let it roast until 
 it is quite done, 
 
 ————————— 
 

 
 POTTING AND CURING. 235 
 
 To Dress A Ham.—Put into the water in which the 
 ham is to be boiled a quart of stale ale or old cider, a 
 pint of vinegar, and a large bunch of sweet herbs, con- 
 taining marjorom, basil, winter savoury, besides thyme, 
 parsley, and bay-leaf. Let the ham simmer until it is 
 two-thirds done; then take it up, skin and coyer it with 
 raspings, and set it in an oven until it is done enough. 
 A ham thus dressed is incomparably superior to one 
 boiled in the usual way. 
 
 Hunting Brer.—Get a good-sized round of beef, 
 and rub it well over with salt ; about thirty hours after- 
 wards it should be wiped dry, and placed upright in the 
 pickle ; if covered by the liquid, it should be no further 
 disturbed so long as it remains in the pan; if otherwise, 
 it should be daily basted with the pickle and turned. 
 At the expiration of about a fortnight, it should be 
 taken from the brine, washed in cold water, and well 
 wiped till it is dry. Equal portions of allspice, mace, 
 cloves, and long pepper, should now be pounded very fine ; 
 two parts of ground black pepper, and a small pinch of 
 Cayenne are added; six or eight pieces of fat bacon should 
 be cut an inch broad, half an inch thick, and long enough 
 to pass through the round of beef. After being rubbed 
 over with the spice mixture, they should be run into 
 the beef quite through it, just as a filet de beuf is 
 larded. Several anchovies should then be washed and 
 boned, and the beef larded with them very deeply, so 
 that each half of an anchovy may be buried perpendicu- 
 larly in the meat without any of it appearing on the 
 surface. The meat should then be rubbed all over with 
 the remains of the pounded mixture of spice, which 
 ought to be well worked into the crevices. A fillet 
 should be bound tightly round the joint, and a cloth 
 tied over the whole. The joint is lastly put into 
 a boiler covered with water, to which a bottle of port 
 wine, a pint of vinegar, and a bunch of sweet herbs 
 are added. When the beef is done, it is allowed to cool 
 in the liquor which has served to dress it, and as soon as 
 
236 - POTTING AND CURING. 
 
 it is quite cold it is taken out, and the fillet removed 
 from it; next morning it may appear at the breakfast- 
 table cold, or at lunch. It will keep good during a 
 
 month ; the liquor in which this meat has been boiled 
 
 may be preserved, and if boiled down and skimmed, 
 will when cold, bottled, and tied over with a bladder, be 
 found excellent for flavouring sauces. 
 
 Ben! 
 

 
 237 
 
 HAMS, BACON, TONGUES, SAUSAGES &c. 
 
 Ir the weather will permit, let a ham hang up two or 
 three days before it is salted. Beat it well with a roll- 
 ing-pin or thick stick. Take a quantity of common 
 salt, a pound of coarse sugar, and a quarter of a pound 
 of saltpetre, and a bottle of vinegar; mix them toge- 
 ther, and set them before the fire to warm; then rub 
 the ham thoroughly; put it into a pan suited for the 
 purpose, and lay the remainder of the salt upon it; let 
 it lie two days; then turn it, rub it well with the brine, 
 and baste it several times in the day ; repeat this every 
 day for a month if the ham be large; if it be a small 
 one, three weeks; then take it out of the brine, drain 
 it; wash off the salt with cold water; dry it with a 
 cloth ; rub some black pepper over the inside, and put 
 some in at the knuckle; hang it in a chimney for a 
 month, or send it to the baker’s to dry ; when it is quite 
 hard, put it into a chest and cover it with some dry saw- 
 dust, malt-dust, or bran; let it remain till the day be- 
 fore it is to be dressed; then put it into cold water to 
 soak. Bacon and pig’s face may be done in the same 
 way. This is the best method of keeping hams, &c. 
 from getting rusty. They may be smoked or not, as 
 agreeable. 
 
 It is better to put a sufficient quantity of salt upon 
 hams, &c., at first, than to add more afterwards, which 
 would make them eat disagreeably salt and hard. It is 
 proper to boil the brine when a ham has been in salt a 
 week or ten days; skim it well; let it be cold, and pour 
 it on again. In damp weather this is very necessary, 
 but in frosty weather it will do without. Bacon may 
 be done in the same manner. When any kind of meat 
 has been salted, the brine may be boiled and skimmed 
 till it is as clear as water ; when cold, bottle it, and set 
 
238 HAMS, BACON, &ce. 
 
 it by for use. It will be good in many articles for which 
 salt is used. | 
 
 To Pickir A Ham.—Salt it as above; let it remain 
 a week; then boil a pint of vinegar, with two ounces 
 of bay salt in it; pour it hot upon the ham, and baste 
 it well every day; let it remain in salt as above; this is 
 a sufficient quantity for a large ham. 
 
 WestTpHALiA Ham.—Rub it with half a pound of 
 the coarsest sugar; let it lie twelve hours, and rub it 
 again with an ounce of saltpetre finely beaten, and a 
 
 pound of common salt. Let it lie three weeks turning - 
 
 it every day. Dry it in wood or turf smoke; when 
 boiled, put a pint of oak saw-dust into the water 
 with it. 
 
 To Pickte A Ham witH Brerr.—Rub a ham with 
 a quarter of a pound of saltpetre; let it le twenty-four 
 hours; boil one quart of strong old beer with half a 
 pound of bay-salt, half a pound of brown sugar, and a 
 pound and a half of common salt; pour this on the ham 
 boiling het; rub and turn it every day for a fortnight, 
 and baste it with the liquor very frequently. 
 
 YorksHIRE Hams.—Beat them well; mix half a 
 peck of salt, three ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of 
 sal-prunella, and five pounds of coarse sugar; rub the 
 hams well with this, lay the remainder on the top; let 
 them lie three days, then hang them up; put as much 
 water to the pickle as will cover the hams, adding: salt 
 till it will bear an egg; boil and strain it; the next 
 morning put in the hams, press them down so that they 
 may be covered ; let them lie a fortnight; rub them well 
 with bran, and dry them. The above ingredients are 
 sufficient for three middle-sized hams. 
 
 Mock Dutcu Brrer.—Take a round of beef, cut off 
 the fat, rub the lean all over with brown sugar, and let 
 it lie two or three hours in a pan, turning it two or 
 three times; then salt it with saltpetre and common 
 
 salt, and let it he a fortnight, turning it every day. 
 ' Then roll it very tight in a coarse cloth, put it into a 
 press for two days, and hang it to dry in a chimney. 
 
 
 
HAMS, BACON, &c. 239 
 
 When it is boiled, put it into a cloth, and when cold it 
 will cut like Dutch beef. a 
 
 Hune Breer.—Make a strong brine with bay-salt, 
 saltpetre, and common salt, and put in some ribs of beef 
 for nine days. Then hang it up in a chimney. It may 
 be smoked or not, as you like. 
 
 _Wetsu Beer.—Rub some ribs of beef with saltpetre 
 and common salt, let it lie fourteen days, turn and rub it 
 every day, and then dry it in a chimney.; 
 
 To stew Toneve.—Salt a tongue with saltpetre 
 and common salt for a week, turning it every day. 
 Boil it tender enough to peel; when done, stew it in a 
 moderately strong gravy; season with soy, mushroom 
 ketchup, Cayenne, pounded cloves, and salt, if neces- 
 sary. 
 
 Serve with truffles, morels, and mushrooms, In 
 both this receipt and the next, the roots must be taken 
 off the tongues before salting, but some fat left. 
 
 Aw ExceLLeENT Way OF DOING TONGUES TO EAT 
 Coip.— Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown 
 sugar, a little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and all- 
 
 _ spice, in fine powder, for a fortnight; then take away 
 
 
 
 the pickle, put the tongue imto a small pan, and lay 
 some butter on it: cover it with brown crust, and 
 bake slowly till so tender that a straw would go through 
 it. 
 The thin part of tongues, when hung up to dry, 
 grates like hung beef, and also makes a fine addition to 
 the flavour of omelets. 
 
 Tonavue with ParmesaAn.—Prepare and cook an 
 ox’s tongue in a braise, let it cool, cut in very thin 
 slices, put rasped Parmesan in a deep dish, and lay the 
 slices of tongue over it; continue doing so till three or 
 four beds have been made, alternately of tongue and 
 cheese ; sprinkle every layer with a little of the stock 
 the tongue was braised in, and finish it with a covering 
 of cheese, which must be basted with melted butter; 
 put it into the oven, and when the cheese is of a fine 
 colour, serve. 
 
240 HAMS, BACON, &c. 
 
 PickLED ToNGUE, GLAZED. — This is a remove 
 which is frequently used for family dinners. Take a 
 large tongue a@ V’écarlate, boil it well, then flay it, 
 glaze it, and, after having made it look quite neat, send 
 it up with mashed turnips on one side, and mashed car- 
 rots, or carrots and spinach, on the other, &c. 
 
 Roastep Ham.—Pare the ham on the under side, 
 and cut it quite round, so that it may have a good form, 
 steep it to take out the salt, put it into an earthern 
 vessel with slices of onions, carrots, and two bruised 
 bay-leaves; pour over it a bottle and a half of Malaga, 
 or any other Spanish wine, or champagne, cover it with 
 a cloth, and shut it as close as possible, leave it to 
 marinade twenty--four hours, spit it and let it cook, 
 basting it with the seasoning; when nearly done, take 
 off the skin; glaze and pannez it; let it take a fine 
 colour ; when the ham is taken up to take off the skin, 
 pass the marinade through a gauze search, reduce 
 it to the consistence of sauce, and serve it under the 
 ham. 
 
 To pickLE Porx.—Bone the pork, cut it into pieces 
 of a size fit to lie in a tub or pan, rub the pieces well 
 with saltpetre, then take two parts of common salt, 
 and two of bay-salt, and rub every piece well; now put 
 a layer of common salt on the bottom of the vessel, 
 and cover every piece with common salt, laying them 
 one on another as close as you can, and filling the 
 hollow places in the sides with salt. As the salt melts 
 on the top, strew on more; lay a coarse cloth over the 
 vessel, a board over that, and a weight on the board to 
 keep it down. Keep it close covered; it will keep the 
 whole year. | 
 
 - PickLE FOR Pork which is to be eaten soon.—Boil 
 together two gallons of pump water, one pound of bay- 
 salt, one pound of coarse sugar, and six ounces of salt- 
 petre, and skim it when cold. Cut the pork in what 
 pieces you please, lay it down close, and pour the liquor 
 over it; lay a weight on it to keep it down, and cover it 
 close from the air, and it will be fit to use in a week. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 HAMS, BACON, &c. 24] 
 
 If you find the pickle begins to spoil, boil and skim it, 
 and when cold, pour it on the pork. , 
 
 To coruaR Brrer.—Take a piece of thin flank of 
 beef, and bone it, cut the skin off, salt it with two 
 ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal prunella, and two 
 of bay salt, half a pound of coarse sugar, and two pounds 
 of white salt; beat the hard salts fine, and mix all toge- 
 ther, turn it every day and rub it with the brine well for 
 eight days ; then take it out of the pickle, wash, and wipe 
 it dry. Then take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and 
 a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve corns of allspice, 
 and a nutmeg beaten fine, with a spoonful of beaten pep- 
 per, a large quantity of chopped parsley, with sweet herbs, 
 chopped fine, sprinkle it on the beef, and roll it up 
 tight, put a coarse cloth round, and tie it tight with 
 tape. Boil it in a large copper of water, if a large 
 ‘ collar, six hours; if a small one, five hours: take it out 
 and put it in a press till cold; if you have no press, put 
 it between two boards, and place a large weight on it till 
 it is cold; then take it out of the cloth, and cut it into 
 slices. Garnish with raw parsley. 
 
 Pork SavusaGces.—Take three pounds of pork, fat 
 and lean together, without skin or gristles, chop it as 
 fine as possible, season with a tea-spoonful of beaten 
 pepper, and two of salt, some sage shred fine, about three 
 spoonfuls; mix the whole well together. In the mean 
 time have the guts nicely cleaned, and fill them; or put 
 them down in a pot, then roll them of what size you 
 please, and fry them. Beef likewise makes good sau- 
 sages. 
 
 Buack Puppines.—Before killing a hog, boil a peck 
 of grits for half an hour, then drain them, and put them 
 into a clean tub or large pan; then kill the hog, and 
 save two quarts of the blood; and keep stirring it till 
 quite cold; now mix it with grits, and stir them well 
 together. Season with a large spoonful of salt, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cloves, and the same quantity of 
 mace and nutmeg together, dry it, beat it well, and mix 
 
 R 
 
242 HAMS, BACON, &¢: 
 
 in. Now take a little winter savory, sweet marjoram, 
 and thyme, pennyroyal stripped off the stalks, and 
 chopped. fine, just enough to season them, and to give 
 them a flavour, but no more. The next day take the 
 leaf of the hog, and cut it in dice, scrape and wash the 
 gut clean, then tie one end, and begin to fill them, mix 
 in the fat as you fill them, be sure to put in a deal of 
 fat, fill the skins three parts full and tie the other end. 
 Prick them with a pin, and put them in a kettle of 
 boiling water. Boil them softly an hour; take them 
 out, and lay them on clean straw. 
 
 REcEIPT TO MAKE A Ham better than those of 
 Westphalia, according to Ude.—As soon as the pig is 
 cold enough to be cut up, take the two hams, and cut 
 out the round bone, so as not to have the ham too 
 thick; rub them well with common salt, and leave them 
 
 in a large pan for three days ; when the salt has drawn ° 
 
 out all the blood, throw the brine away, and proceed as 
 follows: for two hams of about eighteen pounds each, 
 take one pound of moist sugar, one pound of common 
 salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, mix them together, 
 and rub the hams well with it, then put them into a 
 vessel large enough to contain them in the liquor, 
 always keeping the salt over them; after they have 
 been in this state three days, throw over them a bottle 
 of good vinegar. One month is requisite for the cure 
 of them, during that period they must be often turned 
 in the brine; when you take them out, drain them well, 
 powder them with some coarse flour, and hang them in 
 a dry place. The same brine can serve again, observ- 
 ing that you must not put so much salt on the next 
 hams that you pickle. If the hams are smaller, put 
 only three quarters of a pound of salt, but the salt will 
 not do any harm if you do not let them remain too long 
 in the brine; if you can get them smoked, they are then 
 not so subject to be infected by vermin, no insect what- 
 ever can bear the bitterness of the soot; the smoke of 
 lerre or wood is preferable to the smoke of coal. Be 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 HAMS, BACON, &ce. 2438 
 
 particular that the hams are hung as far as possible 
 from the fire, otherwise the fat will melt, and they will 
 become dry and hard. 
 
 Miss Acton calls this an admirable receipt, but it had 
 been proved by at least 100,000 persons ioe years 
 before the publication of her book. 
 
 Ham with Maprrra.—Take in preference a West- 
 moreland ham, which prepare in the same manner as 
 directed above; but it need not be left so long in water, 
 as it is not so briny as the Westphalia hams are. Blanch 
 it in water only during two hours; then drain it, and 
 put it mto a braising-pan, trimmed with thin slices of 
 veal at the bottom, seasoned with carrots, onions, parsley, 
 bay-leaves, spices, &c.; pour over these two glasses of 
 rich consommé and a bottle of Madeira, let it boil for 
 about a couple of hours. When done, pour some of the 
 ’ liquor, after having skimmed off the fat, to reduce to an 
 Espagnole, which is the proper sauce. 
 
 N.B. When the ham has boiled for two hours in the 
 water, you must trim it instantly, before you put it with 
 the wine, that you may send it up the moment you take 
 it out of the braise. Reduce the liquor to make the 
 glaze for it. 
 
 Briguton Huntine Brer.—A handsome round of 
 ‘beef, of about twenty-five pounds weight, is put into 
 spring water, and left there two hours. On being taken 
 out and well drained, three ounces of saltpetre are well 
 rubbed into the meat; this must be left in a pan during 
 twenty-four hours, and the saltpetre again rubbed into it 
 three or four times during this interval. A pound of 
 common salt is then rubbed in several times during the 
 next twenty-four hours; meanwhile, a mixture is’ pre- 
 pared with a quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces 
 of white pepper, and an ounce of long pepper, all which 
 are ground, pounded very fine, intimately mingled, and 
 rubbed over the meat at the expiration of the second 
 twenty-four hours. The beef remains ten days in the 
 brine, which now rapidly forms in the pan, being 
 
 R 2 
 
244 HAMS, BACON, &ce. 
 
 turned and basted with the pickle every day. After 
 this time, it is washed in cold spring water, tied round 
 with packthread, and placed in a deep earthen pan, 
 larger than the joint, round which there must be a 
 space of two or three inches; the rims of the pan must 
 be higher than the meat. A quarter of a pound of 
 fresh beef suet, chopped very small, is then strewed over 
 the surface of the joint, round which two quarts of wa- 
 ter are poured into the pan; this vessel is next covered 
 with a thin crust, made of flour and water, and put into. 
 an oven hot enough for bread. The beef must be baked 
 four hours ; the crust is then removed, and the upper 
 surface of the meat washed with some of the liquor in 
 which it was baked. When cold it may be sent to 
 table. 
 
 To PRESERVE Meat wiTHout SaLtt.—Wet a clean 
 cloth in vinegar, wring it dry, and wrap the meat in it ; 
 hang it up in a dry cool place: by this means it will 
 keep good several days in hot weather. 
 
 TO RESTORE TAINTED GAME, OR OTHER Mzar. — 
 Prepare it for cooking, then wrap the game in a fine 
 linen cloth, closely sewed in every part, so as to prevent 
 any dust or cinder getting in; when this is done, take a 
 fire-shovel full of hot charcoal or live coal, and throw 
 mto a bucket of cold water, and dip the game or meat 
 into it, and allow it to remain five minutes, and upon 
 taking it out, all the offensive smell will be removed, 
 and it will be perfectly fit for use, but it must be dressed 
 immediately. 
 
 To PREPARE SaLt.—Take a lump of salt of the size 
 you think proper, and if not quite dry, place it in a plate 
 before the fire to make it so, then pound it in a mortar 
 till it is perfectly fine; this done, fill your salt-cellers 
 with it higher than the brim, and with the flat side of a 
 knife that has a smooth edge, take it off, and press it 
 down even with the top. If the salt-cellers are not 
 smooth on the top, but cut in notches, a table-spoon is 
 the best tool to press and smooth the salt in them, or it 
 
 
 

 
 HAMS, BACON, «ce, 245 
 
 rnakes them look very neat, if the bottom of the salt- 
 celler is ornamented, to place the bottom of one on the 
 top of the other for the same purpose. 
 
 The salt should be in a lump thatit may be free from 
 dirt, and the knife must have a smooth edge, if it has 
 the least ruggedness, it will leave the marks on the 
 salt. 
 
 Mustarp.—To eight tea-spoonfuls, or two ounces of 
 mustard, put two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and nine of 
 water; mix them well together, then add six tea- 
 spoonfuls more of water, and again well mix it, by 
 rubbing it round the side of the cup or other vessel, 
 till it is of a nice smooth consistency, and free from 
 any lumps. 
 
 Frirep ParsLey.—Let it be nicely picked and washed, 
 then put into a cloth, and swung backwards and for- 
 wards till it is entirely and perfectly dry ; put it into a 
 pan of hot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice ready to 
 take it out the moment it is crisp (in another moment it 
 will be spoilt); put it spread reversed on a sieve or 
 coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. 
 
 Crisp Parsutry (Another receipt).—Pick and wash 
 young parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to drain the water 
 from it, spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a Dutch 
 oven before the fire, and turn it frequently until it is 
 quite crisp. 
 
 This is a much more easy way of preparing it 
 than frying it, which is frequently ill done. Pars- 
 ley thus fried is a pretty garnish for lamb chops, 
 fish, &e. 
 
 _¥Friep Breap Sirrets,—Cut aslice of bread about 
 a quarter of an inch thick from a stale loaf, divide it 
 with a sharp knife into pieces two inches square, shape 
 these into triangles or crosses; put some very fresh 
 butter, or very clean fat into an iron frying-pan; when 
 it is hot, put in the sippets, and fry them a delicate 
 light brown; take them up with a fish-slice, and drain 
 them well from fat, turning them occasionally, this 
 
246 HAMS, BACON, &¢. 
 
 will take a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan at such 
 a distance from the fire that the fat may be hot 
 enough to brown without burning the bread; this is a 
 requisite precaution in frying. 
 
 These fried sippets may be used as a pretty garnish 
 tothe finest made dishes; they may also be sent up 
 with peas and other soups; but when intended for 
 soups, the bread must be cut into bits about half an inch 
 square. If sippets be not done very delicately clean 
 and dry, they are uneatable. . 
 - Peas Powprr.—Pound together in a marble mor- 
 tar, half an ounce each of dried mint and sage, a 
 drachm of celery seed, and a quarter of a drachm of 
 Cayenne pepper ; rub them through a sieve. This gives 
 a very savoury relish to pea-soup, and to water-gruel, if 
 approved. 
 
 A drachm of allspice, or black pepper, may be 
 pounded with the above addition, or instead of the Ca- 
 renne. 
 
 : ‘Fo PRESERVE Burtrer.—Take two parts of the best 
 common salt, one part good loaf sugar, and one part 
 saltpetre; beat them well together. To sixteen ounces 
 of butter, thoroughly cleansed from the milk, put oné 
 ounce of this composition; work it m well, and pot 
 down when become. firm and eold. The butter thus 
 preserved is the better for keeping, and should not be 
 used under a month. This articke should be kept 
 from the air; and is best in pots of the best glazed 
 earth, that will hold from ten to fourteen pounds 
 each. 
 
 To xererp Mitx anp Cream.—JIn hot weather, 
 when it is difficult to preserve milk from becoming 
 sour, and spoiling the cream, it may be kept perfectly 
 sweet by scalding the’ new milk very gently without 
 boiling, and setting it by m the earthern dish or pan 
 that it is done in. This method is pursued in Devon- 
 shire; and for butter and eating, would equally answer: 
 im small quantities for coffee, tea, &c. Cream already 
 
 
 

 
 HAMS, BACON, &c. 247 
 
 skimmed, may be kept twenty-four hours, if scalded 
 without sugar, and by adding to it as much powdered 
 lump-sugar as shall make it pretty sweet, will be good 
 two days, keeping it in a cool place. 
 
"248 
 
 USEFUL DIRECTIONS IN MAKING CAKES. 
 
 Eaas, when used, should be extremely well beaten— 
 not with their yolks and white together, but separate, 
 and used immediately, or they will require beating again. 
 Dried raisins, when used, should be well stoned and 
 dried; and as they are apt to stick together, just before 
 they are mixed in, a little dried flour should be dusted 
 among: them, and the raisins well shook about; this pre- 
 vents their adhesion, and adds to the lightness of the 
 cake. Currants and carraways, when employed, should 
 be carefully washed, and every bit of dirt removed; then 
 rubbed in a cloth, and set before the fire to dry perfectly, 
 else the cake would be heavy. Before they are added, 
 they should be also dusted with flour. 
 
 The sugar should be of the best lump, rubbed to a 
 powder, and then sifted through a tammy or lawn sieve. 
 When yeast is used in cakes, they will prove equally 
 light and rich with a less proportion of butter and eggs 
 than if it was not employed. In this case the butter 
 should be first melted in the milk, and used together 
 with the flour, milk, water, and yeast in making the 
 leaven, because the latter is easier divided than if the 
 butter were added afterwards. The leaven made with- 
 out it would be tough, and the cake less good. If lemon 
 be added, it should be pared as thin as ‘possible, and 
 beaten to a paste in a marble mortar. To be able to 
 give it a flavour through the other ingredients, it should 
 be mixed with a little wine, milk, or cream, or whatever 
 liquid may be used in making the cake. Much of light- 
 ness and beauty of the cake depends on the very well 
 beating of the materials in the pan or bowl. No metal 
 spoons should be used, but wooden. The heat of the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES; 249 
 
 oven is an important part.- When the cake is large, if 
 the oven be not brisk, the substance of it will not rise. 
 To avoid this, a paper should be always put over the 
 surface. The earthen ovens are the best, because most 
 manageable, and the heat can be regulated, and kept 
 with greater precision. 
 
 When the materials of a cake will not hold together 
 in the raw state, they should be baked in hoops, in 
 paper moulds, or in tins; the two first used in prefer- 
 ence, because, being bad conductors of heat, they pre- 
 vent scorching. To know when it is soaked, take a 
 broad-bladed knife that is very bright, and plunge it 
 into the middle, draw it instantly out, and if any of the 
 cake sticks to it, put it into the oven immediately, and 
 bake it longer; should the heat be enough to raise, but 
 not to soak it, put fresh fuel quickly in, which will keep 
 the cakes hot till the oven is fit to finish the baking; 
 but great care is necessary that no mistake occurs from 
 negligence when large cakes are to be done. 
 
 If yeast is required, it should be had the day be- 
 fore it is used, to give it time to settle, and be thick at 
 the bottom of the basin. The beer which will rise 
 to the top must be poured off, and the proper quantity 
 used as directed in the several receipts. If it should 
 be bitter, put a little water to it the day before wanted, 
 which improves it much, but rather more yeast must be 
 used on that account. Have your yeast as thick as pos- 
 sible for cakes, buns, bvead, rolls, &c. &c. 
 
 All kinds of cakes should be turned out of the tins 
 or pans they are baked in as soon as they are taken out 
 of the oven, and kept upside down till cold, otherwise 
 the steam at the bottom will make them heavy. 
 
 Be careful to smell every egg; a single bad one will 
 spoil every thing. Eggs should be always strained after 
 beating. . 
 
 Bread and cakes wetted with milk, eat best when new, 
 but become staler sooner than others. 
 
 Earthen pans with covers, or tin boxes, preserve them 
 
950 MAKING CAKES. 
 
 best ; but they are often kept in wooden boxes and 
 drawers. 
 
 Icrrnc ror Cakes.— Whip the whites of five epi 
 to a froth, put to them a pound of the finest sugar, and 
 a wine- glass of orange flower-water; beat these ingre- 
 dients together during the time the cake is baking, and 
 the moment it is taken from the oven, put on the iceing 
 with a spoon, or thin broad bit of board, or with a fea- 
 ther; return the cake into the oven for a short time to 
 harden it. Some do not put on the iceing till the cake 
 is nearly cold. According to the size of your cake, so 
 must you increase the quantity of eggs and sugar, and 
 to the orange flower-water you may add a little fresh 
 lemon peel to flavour, and no more. 
 
 Currse Cakes.—Put some rennet to three quarts of 
 milk. When the curd is come, break it and strain off 
 the whey. When quite dry, crumble it very small, and 
 add to it half a pound of currants, a little grated nut- 
 meg, some pounded cinnamon, an ounce and a half of 
 bleached almonds, the peel of a lemon rasped, a glass of 
 raisin or Malaga wine, three quarters of a pound of fine 
 sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of six, 
 and a pint of cream. Beat it till of a light colour. 
 Put puff paste into the patty-pans, let them be three- 
 parts full of the mixture, and set them in the oven. | 
 
 A Sproner Caxre.—Take seven ounces of flour, three- 
 quarters of a pound of fine loaf sugar, the rind of a 
 lemon grated, six eggs with the whites (the eggs must 
 be beaten half an hour before put to the above), then 
 baked in rather a quick oven. 
 
 To MAKE YORKSHIRE CAkES.—Beat three pounds of 
 flour, a pint and a half of warm milk, four spoonfuls of 
 yeast, and four eggs, well together, and let it rise; then 
 form the cakes, and let them rise on the tins before you 
 bake, which must be in a slow oven. 
 
 Five ounces of butter may be warmed in the milk, if 
 agreeable. 
 
 To maxEe Murrins.—Take four pounds of flour, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES. 251 
 
 four eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter melted in a 
 quart of milk, and ten spoonfuls of good yeast. Mix 
 the whole, and beat it well; then set it to rise three or 
 four hours. Bake on an iron plate, and when done on 
 one side, turn them. Toast before the fire, divide them, 
 and butter before eating. 
 
 To mAkE Harp Biscurts.— Warm half a pound of 
 butter in as much skimmed milk as will make four pounds 
 of flour into a very stiff paste. Beat it with a rolling- 
 pin, and work it perfectly smooth. Roll it pretty thin, 
 and cut out the biscuits. Prick them full of holes, and 
 bake them, for which purpose six or eight minutes will 
 be sufficient. 
 
 A VERY FINE CAKE.—Wash two pounds and a half 
 of fresh butter in water first, and then in rose-water, 
 beat the butter to a cream; beat twenty eggs, yolks and 
 whites separately, half an hour each. Have ready two 
 pounds and a half of the finest flour, well dried, and 
 kept hot, likewise a pound and a half of sugar pounded 
 and sifted, one ounce of spice in finest powder, three 
 pounds of currants nicely cleaned and dry, half a pound 
 of almonds blanched, and three quarters of a pound of 
 sweetmeats cut, not too thin. Let all be kept by the 
 fire, mix all the dry ingredients; pour the eggs strained 
 to the butter; mix half a pint of sweet wine with a 
 large glass of brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, 
 mix well, then have all the dry things put in by degrees; 
 beat them very thoroughly, you can hardly do it too 
 much. Having half a pound of stoned jar-raisins 
 chopped as fine as possible, mix them carefully, so that 
 there shall be no lumps, and add a tea-cupful of orange 
 flower-water. Beat the ingredients together a full 
 hour at least. Have a hoop well buttered, or, if you 
 have none, a tin or copper cake-pan ; take a white paper, 
 doubled and buttered, and put in the pan round the 
 edge, if the cake batter fill it more than three parts; for 
 space should be allowed for rising. Bake in a quick 
 oven. It will require three hours. 
 
 A Puarn Caxe.—One pound of flour, half a pound 
 
252 MAKING CAKES. 
 
 of butter, half a pound of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful _ 
 
 of the carbonate of soda, half a pint of new milk just 
 warm, three eggs, and half a pound of currants. The 
 currants to be added last, and the whole to be well 
 mixed. Bake as usual. | | 
 
 Tra Caxres.—Rub fine four ounces of butter into 
 eight ounces of flour; mix eight ounces of currants, and 
 six of fine Lisbon sugar, two yolks and one white of 
 eggs, and a spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the 
 thickness of an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a wine-glass. 
 You may beat the other white, and wash over them; and 
 either dust sugar, or not, as youlike. 
 
 Sweet Biscurrs may be made thus: Beat well eight 
 eggs into a froth, to which add a pound of powdered 
 sugar and the outside peel of a lemon grated fine; whisk 
 the whole well together till it becomes light, then add 
 to it a pound of flour with a little rose-water. Sugar 
 them over and bake them in papers or tins. 
 
 Dror Biscurrs.—Beat up the whites of six eggs and 
 the yolks of ten with a spoonful of rose-water, to which 
 add ten ounces of powdered lump sugar. Beat the 
 whole well up, and add one ounce of bruised caraway- 
 seeds, and six ounces of flour. Drop them on wafer- 
 paper, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Ratarra Caxes.—Blanch and beat into a paste half 
 a pound each of Jordan or other sweet almonds, and of 
 bitter almonds, with a little rose-water ; to which add 
 one pound of powdered lump sugar, and the whites of 
 four eggs well beaten ; set the mixture over a moderate 
 fire, stirring it constantly till it is scalding hot; when it 
 is cold, make it into small rolls, which cut. out into cakes 
 about one inch in diameter; touch each cake lightly 
 with the top of the finger dipped in flour; place them 
 on wafer-paper, sift sugar over them, and bake in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 Batu Buns.—Mix well two pounds of fine flour, with 
 half a pound of fresh butter made liquid by a gentle 
 heat ; add to the mixture the yolks of two and the white 
 of one egg, three table-spoonfuls of cream, and the 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES. 958 
 
 same quantity of good yeast all well beaten together. 
 When the whole is thoroughly incorporated, set it by to 
 rise for about half an hour, when you must add to it six 
 ounces of caraway comfits, reserving a few to strew over 
 the tops of the buns when you have formed them. They 
 should be baked upon buttered tins. 
 
 If the above liquids should not be sufficient to form 
 the flour into dough, a little milk or water may be 
 added. 
 
 Batu Caxes.—Mix one pound of fresh butter and a 
 pound of flour with a gill of yeast and some warm 
 eream into a paste; set it by in a warm place to rise; when 
 sufficiently risen, mix with it a few caraway seeds, and 
 make it into cakes about the size of French rolls or less; 
 bake them on buttered tins. 
 
 A SomersetsHire Biscuir is usually made with 
 wheat-flour fermented with yeast, and a pretty large 
 quantity of caraway seeds, to which is added a portion 
 of butter more or less large; they are baked in a very 
 slow oven, and are considerably raised. Next to Le- 
 mann’s biscuits they are the most wholesome. 
 
 Tue Victoria Cakr.—The yolk of twelve eggs, 
 leaving out the whites of six; one pound of loaf sugar 
 beat fine, the juice of one lemon, and the peels of two 
 cut very fine; whisk these ingredients together for three 
 quarters of an hour, then add twelve ounces of flour. 
 This cake to be put into the oven immediately: an hour 
 is sufficient to bake it. 
 
 SHREWsBURY Caxkxrs.—Sift one pound of sugar, 
 some pounded cinnamon, and a nutmeg grated, into 
 three pounds of flour, the finest sort; add a little rose- 
 water to three eggs, well beaten, and mix these with 
 the flour, &c.; then pour into it as much butter melted 
 as will make it a good thickness to roll out. 
 
 Mould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into such shapes 
 
 as you like. 
 
 A Prum Caxe.—Seven pounds of flour, three pounds 
 of butter, eight pounds of currants, two large nutmegs, 
 half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, one 
 
254 MAKING CAKES, 
 
 pound of sugar, sixteen eggs, a pint of yeast warm, as 
 much cream as you think will wet it, pour wine in your 
 cream till it is as thick as butter, beat one pound of al- 
 monds with wine and orange flower-water, put one pound 
 of orange, lemon and citron. To ice the cake, take the 
 whites of five eggs, whip it up to a froth, and put one 
 pound of double refined sugar sifted, three spoonfuls of 
 orange-flower water, whipt all the time the cake is in 
 the oven. 
 
 SPONGE CaxeE (Another way).—Take seven eggs, 
 their weight before broken in sugar, and the weight of 
 four in flour, well dried and sifted; beat the yolks and 
 whites separate; then add the sugar, which must be 
 sifted very fine, to the whites; when well mixed by heat- 
 ing, add the yolks and then the flour; beat the whole 
 till the oven is ready, which should be tolerably hot; but- 
 ter and paper the pan. 
 
 A Cueap SEED CAKkE.—Mix a quarter of a peck of 
 flour with half a pound of sugar, a quarter of an ounce 
 of allspice, and a little ginger; melt three quarters of 
 a pound of butter with half a pint of milk; when just 
 warm, put it to a quarter of a pint of yeast, and work 
 up to a good dough. Let it stand before the fire a few 
 minutes before it goes to the oven, add seeds or currants, 
 and bake an hour and a half. 
 
 A Cueap Sep Caks (Another way).—Mix a pound 
 and a half of flour, and a pound of common lump sugar, 
 eight eggs beaten separately, an ounce of seeds, two 
 spoonfuls of yeast, and the same of milk and water. 
 
 N.B.—Mhilk alone causes cake and bread soon to 
 dry. 
 epee Rocx.— Wash nine ounces of rice in cold water, 
 then put it into a sauce-pan with a pint of milk and a 
 table-spoonful of loaf sugar (pounded), and let it steep 
 over a very slow fire (about three. hours) until quite 
 
 tender and swelled. Should the rice take up all: the 
 
 milk before it is quite done, a little more milk must be 
 
 added. When done spread it on a dish, and when 
 
 nearly cold, break it up with a fork. When quite cold, 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES. 256 
 
 put it into the proper dish, pouring a cream over it. 
 To be eaten with any preserve. 
 
 OrANGE Sronce.—-Dissolve two ounces of isinglass 
 in a pint of water, strain it through a sieve, then mix 
 with it the juice of six large oranges and a lemon, 
 sweeten it to your taste, then whisk it tillit becomes like 
 sponge ; then put it into a mould, and the next day it is 
 fit for use. | 
 
 Rice CuersEe Caxrs.—Take the yolks of eight eggs, 
 and beat them with half a pound of white sugar and half 
 a pound of ground rice; a few bitter almonds well 
 beaten, and lemon peel grated to your taste; then add 
 half a pound of fresh butter oiled and cold, beat all well 
 together; butter the patty-pans and fill them half full. 
 The oven should be slow, and twenty minutes will do 
 them. 
 
 To MAKE APPLE CAKE, OR GATEAU DE PoMMES,— 
 To a pound and a half of apple put three quarters of a 
 pound of loaf sugar, and the rind of a lemon with part 
 of the juice; melt the sugar in a little water, and boil 
 it till it is quite stiff; then add to it the apple and 
 lemon; let them boil till quite dissolved ; put it into the 
 mould. 
 
 SronceE Biscurts.—Take twelve eggs, and as much 
 sugar and flour (of each) as the eggs weigh, potato 
 flour is the best, half the weight of the eggs if you use 
 flour, it must be well dried that it may not ball, and 
 rubbed through a silk sieve; beat the eggs, put the 
 yolks and whites apart, beat the yolks with powdered 
 sugar, to which you will add a little orange flower-water 
 and grated lemon peel; whip the whites of eggs till 
 they are quite a snow, and mix. them with the yolks; 
 add then the flour, which must be mixed well with the 
 rest in beating it with the whip; then put it into moulds 
 well buttered with melted butter, which you must put 
 on with a brush, and bake them in an oven moderately. 
 hot. If the cakes are not of a good colour, you must 
 glaze them in the following manner: Take sugar 
 pounded very fine, the white of an egg, and the juice of 
 
256 MAKING CAKES: 
 
 half a lemon; beat them together till they become quite 
 white, cover the biscuits with this, and let it dry. This 
 paste made lighter will serve to make little biscuits; you 
 may vary the preparations in a manner to give them 
 more or less lightness, and by putting different perfumes 
 to change their quality. 
 
 _ Diet Breap Caxe.—Boil in half a pint of water 
 one pound and a half of lump sugar, have ready one 
 pint of eggs, three parts yolks, in a pan, pour in the 
 sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about a quarter of 
 an hour; then stir in two pounds of sifted flour, case 
 the insides of square tins with whitepaper, fill them 
 three parts full, sift a little sugar over, and bake it in a 
 warm oven, and while hot remove them from the 
 moulds. 
 
 Atmonp CHEESE CakEs.—Five ounces of sweet. 
 almonds, half an ounce of bitter ditto, pound them and 
 mix them up with a little sweet wine to prevent them — 
 from oiling, put to it a quarter of a pound of melted 
 butter, and three eggs; sweeten to your taste; tin the 
 patty-pan with thin puff paste, sift sugar over them be- 
 fore you put them in the oven. 
 
 Basa Caxes.—Two pounds and a half of flour, one 
 pound and a quarter of butter, ten eggs, three penny- 
 worth of saffron, a little sugar and salt, a glass of wine, 
 one pound and a half of raisins, three quarters of a 
 pound of currants, and a table-spoonful and a half of 
 yeast. It is better to stand twelve hours after it is 
 made before itis baked. These ingredients must be beat 
 and mixed extremely well to the last minute before it is 
 put into the oven. 
 
 GINGERBREAD. oP repent one pound a half of flour, 
 one pound and a quarter of treacle, half a pound of 
 sugar, one ounce of ginger beat and sifted fine, cori- 
 ander seeds three drachms, caraway seeds one drachm, 
 butter halfa pound. Boil your butter and treacle toge- 
 ther, pour hot upon the flour, mix and beat well. If you 
 make it or mean to bake it im the morning, prepare it 
 over night. It is better to remain some hours. Butter 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES. 257 
 
 sheet tins and roll your paste very thin upon the tins; it 
 is best to bake it in a side oven, as it requires great at- 
 tention in baking. 
 
 Huntine Nuts.—One pound of flour, one pound of 
 treacle, a quarter of a pound of brown sugar, about half 
 a pound of butter, and one ounce of pounded ginger, 
 an ounce and a half of candied orange and lemon peel 
 cut into pieces, to be all mixed together, rolled out, and 
 cut about the size round of a wine-glass. 
 
 Gincer CakeEs.—One pound of flour, half a pound 
 of lump sugar pounded fine, a quarter of a pound of 
 butter beaten to a cream, the yolks of four eggs, a little 
 brandy and ginger to your taste, to be all mixed toge- 
 ther into a paste, and made into little cakes. 
 
 CoLLEeGE Purrs.—Take a pint of thin cream, five 
 egos, whites and yolks, two table spoonfuls of flour, 
 some nutmeg’, the peel of one lemon grated; sweeten it 
 to your taste, put it in small teacups, and bake it three 
 quarters of an hour. Serve it up with sweet sauce. 
 
 Easty Bunns.—One pound of flour, two large 
 spoonfuls of sugar, two of yeast, three eggs, one pint of 
 cream, a few currants or caraway seeds; let it stand to 
 rise, bake them in a quick oven. This will make 
 eighteen buns. 
 
 Lirtite Caxes.—A quarter of a pound of flour, a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar grated, the yolks of two eggs, the juice and peel 
 of a lemon, a few almonds blanched and cut; mix all 
 together and make them into little cakes. Bake them 
 on tins. 
 
 Maurterse CaKkr.—Boil one pint of cream, when cold 
 add half a pound of pounded white sugar and the juice 
 of two lemons; whisk it till very thick, and put it in a 
 small high sieve, with a straining cloth at the end in- 
 stead of hair. Put two sticks across a large bason, and 
 place the sieve on them; in twenty-four hours turn out 
 the cream into the crystal dish for use. If properly 
 drained it will have the appearance of a cake. To be 
 ornamented with harlequins. 
 
 S 
 
258 MAKING CAKES. 
 
 Rock Caxr.—Two pounds of flour well dried, three 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar sifted finely, one 
 pound and a half of butter, one pound and a half 
 currants, one nutmeg, one wine-glass and a half of 
 brandy, the peel of a lemon grated. Break the 
 butter into the flour, and add two or three spoonfuls 
 of warm milk, then mix them all together. Have 
 the yolks of three eggs beaten well, and then dip 
 the paste, a small piece at atime, into the eggs, and roll 
 them in your hand. Bake them on buttered tins. The 
 currants not to be inserted till the butter is well rubbed 
 into the flour. 
 
 TunsripGe Caxres.—Three pounds of fine flour, one 
 pound of lump sugar pounded, two ounces of caraway 
 seeds, one quart of milk, four ounces of butter; mix 
 altogether into a paste, roll it out very thin, cut it with 
 the top of a wine-glass, and bake the cakes on a tin. 
 
 Dror Biscurrs.—Beat six eggs well, then put one 
 pound of loaf sugar, and one pound of fine flour sifted 
 put in the last thing; drop them very small on paper, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Lemon Caxes.—Take one pound of pure sugar, 
 twelve ounces of fine flour well dried, eight eggs, the 
 rind of a lemon grated, and a little orange-flower water 
 or brandy; beat the eggs half an hour, then add by de- 
 grees the sugar, flour, &c.; beat it all fifteen minutes 
 longer, then drop the cakes on sheets of tin, and bake 
 them; the whites and yolks of eggs should be beaten 
 separately. 
 
 RECEIPT FOR LITTLE Caxes.—Take half a pound of 
 fine flour, the same of fine currants, six ounces of sugar, 
 the same of butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little 
 orange-flower water, one egg, a little mace cut small ; 
 beat all these very well, put them into the bottoms of 
 little patty pans, and bake them. 
 
 GoOosEBERRY CAKEs.—Gather the gooseberries when 
 full grown, but not ripe ; put them in a jar to coddle in 
 a kettle of water until they are soft, then rub them 
 through a sieve; to a pound of pulp put a pound of 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MAKING CAKES. 259 
 
 loaf sugar; stir it till the sugar is dissolved, the spread 
 it on shallow dishes, and dry it in the sun; when it be- 
 gins to candy, cut it out in whatever shapes you please; 
 turn it every day until it becomes dry and hard; keep 
 them in tin boxes in a dry place. 
 
 Brieuton Biscurrs.—One pound of flour, half a 
 pound of sugar, quarter of an ounce of volatile salts, 
 and make it into a stiff paste with water; roll it out 
 thin, and cut them what size you please. 
 
 Derrsy CAkEs.—One pound of flour, half a pound 
 of butter, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of cur- 
 rants ; mix allin a paste with eggs, make them round 
 and thin, what size you please, and bake them in a 
 quick oven. The same ingredients, except the currants, 
 are what is called Shrewsbury Cakes. 
 
 Sike 
 
260 
 
 PASTIES, PIES, &e. 
 
 GERMAN BatTEer.—In one quart of milk beat ten 
 eggs, put it on a slow fire till it curds, then put it into 
 a cullender, and add half a pound of pounded white 
 sugar, a quarter of a pound of melted butter, and two 
 spoonfuls of orange-flower water; put the above into a 
 mould, and twenty-four hours before it is wanted, it is 
 to be made. 
 
 GincER SourFLE.—Boil in one pint of milk, and 
 half a pint of cream, one ounce of isinglass, one ounce 
 of whole ginger, pour the above boiling on the juice of 
 a lemon, and half a pound of beaten white sugar, whisk 
 it till cold and then put it into a mould. To be made 
 twenty-four hours before wanted. 
 
 Gorers.—Take a pint and a half of new milk, two 
 ounces of butter, eight tea-spoonfuls of flour, half a tea- 
 spoonful of yeast, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and 
 a quarter of a pound of currants; let the mixture stand 
 to make it light before you bake it ; rub your irons every 
 time with a piece of fresh butter tied up in a cloth. 
 Some think eggs preferable to yeast. 
 
 GoosEBERRY Foou.—-Scald a quart. of gooseberries 
 with half a pint of water, when quite soft, rub the pulp 
 through a sieve; boil half a pmt of milk and the same 
 quantity of cream with half the peel of a lemon, and a 
 stick of cinnamon ; strain it when nearly cold, and mix 
 it with the pulped fruit, and sweeten with good brown 
 sugar. Serve in glasses or custard cups. It may be 
 made with three beaten yolks of eggs, and a pint of 
 milk sweetened, and which is to be stirred over the fire 
 till a little thick, and when cold mixed with the goose- 
 berries. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT SHORT CrustT.—Two ounces of su- 
 
 ee nro 
 
 | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 rg 
 

 
 PATTIES, PIES, &c. 261 
 
 gar pounded and sifted fine, then mix it with a pound 
 of dry flour, rub into it three ounces of butter so tine as 
 not to be seen; into some cream put the yolks of two 
 egos well beaten; mix all well together until it becomes 
 a smooth paste, roll it very thin, and bake it in a mode- 
 rate oven. 
 
 A Venison Pastry.—Take a neck and breast of ve- 
 nison, bone it, season it with pepper and salt to your 
 palate; cut the breast in two or three pieces, but do not 
 cut the fat off the neck if you can avoid it. Lay in the 
 breast, and neck end first, and the best end of the neck 
 on the top, that the fat may be whole; make a puff 
 paste crust, let it be very thick on the sides, a good 
 bottom crust, and thick at top; cover the dish, lay in 
 the venison, put in half a pound of butter, a quarter of 
 a pint of water, close the pasty, and let it be baked two 
 hours in a very quick oven. 
 
 In the meantime, set on the bones of the venison in 
 two quarts of water, two or three little blades of mace, 
 an onion, a little piece of crust baked crisp and brown, 
 a little whole pepper, cover it close, and let it boil 
 softly over a slow fire till above half is wasted, then 
 strain it. When the pasty comes out of the oven, lift 
 up the lid, and pour in the gravy. When the venison 
 is not fat enough, take the fat of a loin of mutton, 
 steeped in a little rape vinegar_and wine twenty-four 
 hours, lay it on the top of the venison, and close the 
 pasty. It is wrong of some people to think that venison 
 cannot be baked enough, and who first bake it in a 
 false crust, and then in the pasty; by this time the fine 
 flavour is gone. If you want it to be very tender, wash 
 it in warm milk and water, dry it in clean cloths till it 
 is very dry, then rub it all over with vinegar, and hang 
 it in the air. Keep it as long as you think proper, it 
 will thus keep good for a fortnight, but be sure there be 
 no moistness about it; if there is, you must dry it well, 
 and throw ginger over it, and it will keep a long time. 
 When you use it, just dip it in luke-warm water, and 
 
262 PATTIES, PIES, &c. 
 
 dry it. Bake the pasty in a quick oven, if it is large it 
 will take three hours, then the venison will be tender, 
 and have all the fine flavour. ‘The shoulder makes an 
 excellent pasty, boned, and made as above, with the 
 mutton fat. This pie, if kept in the dish in which it 
 has been baked with the crust on it, will remain good 
 for many days. 
 
 Venison Pasty (Another way).—Cut a neck or 
 breast into small steaks, rub them over with a seasoning 
 of sweet herbs, grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt; fry 
 them slightly in butter; line the sides and edges of a 
 dish with puff paste, lay in the steaks, and add half a 
 pint of rich gravy made with the trimmings of the 
 venison; add a glass of port wine, and the juice of 
 half a lemon, or a tea-spoonful of vinegar; cover the 
 dish with puff paste, and bake it nearly two hours; 
 pour a little more gravy into the pie before serving 
 it up. 
 
 Gorrres.— Half a pound of flour, half a pint of milk, 
 two eggs, with only one white, a spoonful of yeast, two 
 ounces of butter melted in a little milk, a little salt, 
 mix all well together, and set it before the fire to rise, 
 but not too near, make the irons hot over a stove, and 
 pour in the batter. | 
 
 Purr Paste.—Half a pound of flour, six ounces of 
 butter, one hour baking; mix the flower with water, 
 then cut aud roll the butter in thin slices, put a layer 
 ever the paste you have made, then turn it, and repeat it 
 two or three times till it is used up. 
 
 PAsTE FOR THE TimBALLE.—Put on the table a 
 pound of flour, make a hole in the middle and puta 
 little water, four spoonfuls of oil, and a quarter of a 
 pound of lard, two yolks of eggs and salt; mix all 
 these well together, and gradually mix in all the flour, 
 and make the paste very firm; to make a timballe, which 
 is a pasty made in a casserole, take the paste already 
 described, roll it with’ the rolling-pin till it is very thin, 
 line the casserole with #t, taking care not to break it, 
 
 
 
 
 
 “ae : : 
 
 
 
 nod 
 
PATTIES, PIES, &c. 263 
 
 _ fill it with a ragout of meat or fish already dressed, and 
 _ alittle sauce, cover it over with the paste, moisten the 
 edges of the paste which covers the pasty, and should 
 come beyond the casserole a little, and cover it close 
 with the cover; put your casserole into the red hot char- 
 coal cinders, and cover it on the top with more; when it 
 is done, turn the casserole over on a dish, you must 
 
 * open the timballe at the top to put in a sauce which will 
 
 supply what has been used up in the dressing it. 
 
 Lemon Mince Pres.—Cut three large lemons, and 
 squeeze out the juice, boil the peel and pulp until it will 
 pound fine in a mortar; put to it one pound of beef 
 suet, three quarters of a pound of currants, half a 
 pound of raisins, stoned and chopped, one pound of 
 fine sugar ; mix it all well together, then stir in the 
 juice of the lemons and a little brandy; add sweetmeats 
 to your taste. 
 
 Mince Pix is made in a variety of ways; the: follow- 
 ing will be found a good one. Take one pound of the 
 inside of the lean part of a loin of beef, or any other 
 part which is tender and free from membranes, &c., let 
 it be parboiled, and when cold, minced very fine; some 
 prefer to this cold roast beef; mince also fine the same 
 quantity of beef suet, and wash and dry by the fire one 
 pound also of currants, to which some will add the same 
 quantity of raisins stoned and minced fine, take also a 
 pound of some good boiling apples, pared, cored, and 
 minced very fine ; mix the whole well together, to which 
 add one pound of powdered lump or fine raw sugar, half 
 an ounce of salt, one drachm each of cloves, mace, and 
 nutmeg, all in powder, and four ounces or more each of 
 candied citron, orange, and lemon-peel (some use a much 
 larger quantity of each than is here set down), all well 
 minced, and the outside of two or three lemons grated 
 fine, and their juice; add to the whole, well mixed, a 
 quarter of a pint of brandy, and the same quantity of 
 sherry or other good wine. If this mixture be put into 
 
 a stone-jar, closely stopped, it will keep for many months. 
 
 
 
 It is known by the name of minced meat. 
 
264 PATTIES, PIES, &c. 
 
 Suort Pastr.—A quarter of a pound of flour, one 
 ounce of butter, a quarter of an ounce of sugar; ice it on 
 the top. 
 
 Carrot Puppinc.—Wash and scrape some carrots, 
 boil them till quite soft in a good quantity of water, 
 take off the outsides, and grate or beat in a mortar, a 
 quarter of a pound of the middle part of the carrots ; 
 add to it a quarter of a pound of butter, either clarified 
 or beaten to a cream, four eggs well beaten, some su- 
 gar, and a little brandy; bake it in a dish with a puff 
 paste at the bottom, and add candied orange or lemon- 
 
 eel. . 
 ; Cirron Puppixnec.—Boil some Windsor beans quite 
 soft, take off the skins, and beat a quarter of a pound in 
 a mortar or wooden bowl till quite fine, then add a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, either clarified or beaten 
 to a cream, four eggs well beaten, some sugar, orange- 
 flower water, and brandy ; put a puff paste in the dish, 
 and any quantity of citron, cut in long bits, and laid upon 
 the paste; then pour the pudding into the dish, stick 
 bits of citron round the edge of the dish for ornament, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 SquaB Pre is a west-country dish, and is there by 
 many much esteemed, but it will require a good arineeh 
 to digest it. It is made with good plain paste and mut- 
 ton chops, apples, pared and eut into pieces, and onions 
 sliced; usually about equal quantities of the three ingre- 
 dients are employed, with some pepper and salt; water 
 must be put into the dish, but not so much as for mutton 
 or beef-steak pie. A pie of a moderate size will require — 
 two or more hours to be baked. 
 
 SquaB Pie (Another way).—Slice some onions and 
 pippins, cover the bottom of the ‘dish with them, strew 
 some sugar over, and lay upon them some mutton chops, 
 seasoned with pepper and salt; then another large pip- 
 pin, and so on till the dish is full; pour in about a pint 
 of water, and cover with good paste. 
 
 Apres in SYRUP FOR PRESENT Use.—Pare and 
 core some hard round apples, and throw them into a 
 
 
 

 
 PATTIES, PIES, We. 265 
 
 basin of water; as they are done, clarify as much loaf 
 sugar as will cover them; put the apples along with the 
 juice and the rind of a lemon, and let them simmer till 
 quite clear; care must be taken not to break them. 
 Place them on the dish they are to appear at table, and 
 pour syrup over them. 
 
266 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 LecuE CrEAM.—Beat up three eggs, leaving out two 
 of the whites, and add to them gradually a pint and a 
 half of milk; then mix very carefully four table-spoon- 
 fuls of fine wheat flour, and two ounces of finely pow- 
 dered loaf sugar, with grated lemon-peel, to give a fla- 
 vour; boil these ingredients over a slow fire, stirring 
 constantly to prevent burning until the flour is quite dis- 
 solved. Prepare a shallow dish with some ratafia 
 cakes at the bottom, and when the créma is sufficiently 
 boiled, pour it through a sieve upon the cakes ; just be- 
 fore sending it up, some finely powdered cinnamon, 
 should be dusted thickly over it. This dish is served up 
 cold. 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM.—Boil a quarter of an ounce of 
 isinglass in a very little water; when dissolved, strain it — 
 through a hair sieve; while warm, put to it a quart of 
 cream, keep whisking it up while putting the isinglass 
 in; warm about half.a pint of raspberry jelly, put it to 
 the cream, with a little sifted sugar, and a small glass of 
 brandy, whisk it well until it becomes thick, then put it 
 into your mould. 
 
 In summer, use fresh raspberry, about a pint will 
 make a mould of a pint and a half; rub them through a 
 tammy. 
 
 Mock Icz.—Take preserved strawberry, raspberry, 
 and currant jam or jelly, of each one table spoonful, put 
 the whole into a sieve, with as much cream as will 
 scarcely fill a shape, dissolve one ounce of isinglass in a 
 gill of water, and let it stand till it is nearly cold, then 
 mix it with the cream and fruit, and put in a shape. 
 Put in a cool place, and when it is formed, turn it out. 
 
 Swiss CrEam.—Spread at the bottom of a glass dish 
 plums, apricots, cherries, or any other preserves, squeeze 
 
 
 

 
 CREAMS. 267 
 
 on them the juice of a lemon; boil a pint of cream 
 sweetened and pour it upon the preserves while hot. It 
 must be made the day before it is required. 
 
 ORANGE-FLOWER CREAM. — This is the most common 
 of the white creams, and can be made at little expense. 
 Dilute a table-spoonful of the finest sifted flour in a 
 little cold milk, adding to it a pinch of finely sifted salt. 
 Put over the fire in a very clean stew-pan, a quart of 
 the best fresh milk you can obtain, with a stick of cin- 
 namon in it; stir it now and then to prevent the cream 
 from settling at the top. When it begins to boil, put 
 in the diluted flour; stir this one way until it boils, and 
 let it boil for a few minutes, until it has acquired some 
 consistency; then remove it from the fire, and take out 
 the cinnamon. In the meanwhile, dissolve in as little 
 water as will suffice, a sufficient quantity of pounded 
 loaf sugar to sweeten the cream ; into this put the yolks 
 of eight eggs, and two large spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water; beat up the whole well together. When the 
 cream is taken from the fire, pour in this mixture sud- 
 denly, and stir it well round, then replace the stew-pan 
 on the fire, which must be very slow, and stir it gently 
 until the cream is of a proper thickness ; but be careful 
 that it does not boil, or even approach the boiling-point, 
 else it would be spoiled. When the cream is done, pour 
 it into the dish or glass m which it is to appear at table, 
 and put it to cool in a place where the vapours of no 
 other culinary preparation can affect it. Make it five 
 or six hours before it is wanted. If you put the cream 
 into cut glass, let it cool sufficiently first to avoid all 
 danger of breakage. Warm the glass also gradually. 
 
 Buanc-Mance.—To two ounces of isinglass, put one 
 pint of boiling water, the next day set it on the fire 
 until it boils, then strain it off, and add a pint of white 
 wine, the yolks of eight eggs, the peel and juice of one 
 lemon, and a little brandy ; sugar it to your taste; set 
 it on the fire till it is ready to boil, then strain it, and 
 keep it stirred until it is cool, then put it into moulds 
 that have been in cold water. 
 
268 CREAMS. 
 
 Apple Cake.—Take a pound and a half of lump sugar 
 put to one pint of water, and let it boil for some time; 
 then add two pounds of apples pared and cored, and the 
 peel of a large lemon; boil all together till quite stiff, 
 then put into a mould, and when cold turn it out. Serve 
 with a rich custard. . 
 
 VENETIAN CrEAM.—Take a pint of milk, more or 
 less, to make it the more relishing, put in some sugar, a 
 stick of cinnamon, and a little salt, being boiled, strain 
 it three or four times through a sieve, with four or five 
 yolks of new laid eggs; put your dish over the fire, put 
 in it your milk, cover your dish with fire, under and 
 over, till your creain is well taken. It must be served 
 up hot. 
 
 All these dishes will be more delicious with cream 
 than with milk. | 
 
 CorreE CrEAM.—Take a quart of cream, put it in a 
 stew-pan with a bit of sugar and two spoonfuls of 
 ground coffee, and let it all boil together, then take it 
 off; take two or three gizards of either fowls or chickens, 
 open them, and take off the skin, wash it and cut it 
 small, put it in a cup into which you put a glass full of 
 coffee cream; then put this cup near the fire, or on hot 
 cinders, and when it is taken put it in your coffee cream, 
 strain it off two or three times. Put your cream on hot 
 cinders in a dish, cover the same with another with fire 
 over it. Your cream being taken, put it in a cool place 
 and serve it up. 
 
 Lemon Syiuasuss.—To a pint of cream put a pint 
 of double-refined sugar, the juice of seven lemons; 
 grate the rinds of two lemons into a pint of white 
 wine and half a pint of sack, then put them into a deep 
 pot and whisk them for half an hour; put it mto glasses 
 the night before you want it; it is better for standing 
 two or three days, but it will keep a week if required. 
 
 ORANGE CustTarps.—Boil very tender the rind of half 
 a Seville orange and beat in a mortar until very fine; put 
 to it a spoonful of best brandy, the juice of a Seville 
 orange, four ounces of loaf sugar, and the yolk of four 
 
 
 
CREAMS. 269 
 
 eggs. Beat them all together for ten minutes, and then 
 pour in by degrees a pint of boiling cream; beat them 
 until cold, then put into custard cups in a dish of hot 
 water. Let them stand till they are set, then take them 
 out, and stick preserved orange-peel on the top. 
 
 Rick CreamM.—Take two spoonfuls of rice flour, and 
 put it into a stew-pan; mix it up with good cream, sea- 
 son it with sugar, then strain it off; after which put it 
 again into the stew-pan with a stick of cinnamon and a 
 bit of green lemon peel, with a little orange-flower 
 water. Let it remain on the fire, but not too long; 
 when done, and pretty thin, dish it up; put it into a 
 cool place, and when not quite cold, serve.it up. It may 
 be sent up cold if preferred. 
 
 Wurrt CHocoLaTe CreAM.—Beat half a pound of 
 chocolate down in two pints of water upon a slow fire; 
 stir it with a spatula; when it is well dissolved and re- 
 
 duced, take it off the fire, and put in six yolks of fresh 
 
 eggs, four pints of rich cream, and three quarters of a 
 ound of sugar; put the whole in a basin, and when 
 cold finish it as the others. 
 
 Wuiret Marasquino CreaM.—Put into a pint of 
 rich cream half a pound of sifted sugar, mix it, and put 
 in a glass of marasquino; all being well mixed, whip 
 the mousse, and finish it as the foregoing. 
 
 Lemon Ricre.—Boil sufficient rice in milk, with white 
 sugar to taste, till it is soft; put it into an earthenware 
 blanc-mange mould, and leave it till cold. Peel a lemon 
 very thick, cut the peel into shreds about half an inch 
 
 in length; put them into a little water, boil them up, and 
 
 throw the water away, or it will be too bitter; then pour 
 a tea-cupful of fresh water upon them; squeeze and 
 strain the juice of the lemon; add it, with white sugar, 
 to the water and shreds, and let this stew gently, on a 
 very slow fire, for two hours. When cold, it will be a 
 syrup. Having turned out the jellied rice into a cut- 
 glass dish, pour the syrup gradually upon the mass, 
 taking care that the little shreds of peel are equally 
 
270 CREAMS. 
 
 distributed over the whole. This is to be served up 
 cold. 3 
 
 Lemon Rice (Another way).—Boil a quarter of a 
 pound of whole rice, about six lumps of sugar, and a 
 piece of lemon peel in a pint of milk for an hour and a 
 half; put it hot into a mould, and when quite cold, turn 
 it out into a dish, and pour some syrup over it made of 
 the juice and rind of a lemon, a cup of water, and twelve 
 lumps of sugar boiled slowly for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 CHEESE FritTERS.—Pound good cheese with bread- 
 crumbs, raw yolks, rasped ham, and butter. Make this 
 into oval balls, flatten, dip in stiff fritter-batter, and fry 
 them. 
 
 GincER CrEAM.—Four ounces of preserved ginger, 
 sliced fine, three spoonfuls of the syrup, five beaten yolks 
 of eggs, and a pint and a quarter of cream, imperial 
 measure. Boil and whisk. If sugar is wanted, add 
 the finest, then isinglass; freeze the cream. This may 
 be flavoured. with a tincture of ginger. 
 
 ZEST FOR GRaAvies.—Take of powdered thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, sage, and savoury, each two drachms; 
 Cayenne, in powder, half an ounce; angelica, in powder, 
 one drachm; and Coriander seeds two drachms, to be 
 well mixed together. 
 
 To cLariry SucAr.—Put in a middling-sized pre- 
 serving pan the fourth part of a white of egg, whip it 
 until it whitens; add one quart of filtered water, and 
 one pound of fine sugar broken in pieces; stir it, and 
 set the pan over a moderate fire, and when it boils, set 
 it at the corner of the stove to throw up the scum ; to 
 assist this operation, add two spoonfuls of cold water, 
 and when boiled ten minutes, take off the scum, and 
 throw in at intervals two spoonfuls more of water, that 
 they may throw off all the remaining scum; when it 
 becomes clear and white, the sugar is clarified; strain 
 it through the corner of a wet napkin, or silk sieve, into 
 a basin; observe the sugar when the scum is thrown up 
 by boiling, or you risk the loss of some of it, and do 
 
 
 

 
 CREAMS. 2 
 
 not skim it when it commences boiling, as that hinders 
 the clarification. If you wish to obtain a very white 
 syrup, when the sugar throws up its first scum, squeeze 
 upon it the juice of a lemon, which bleaches it perfectly ; 
 too much of egg hurts the operation. 
 
 To Bow Sucar.—To every pound of sugar allow 
 half a pint of water ; stir it over the fire till the sugar 
 be entirely dissolved; when it first boils up, pour in a 
 little cold water, and when it boils a second time, 
 take it off the fire; let it settle ten minutes, carefully 
 scum it, and boil it for half an hour or a little longer, 
 and then put in the fruit. 
 
 To Cuariry IsincLass IN A SHORT TimE.—For a 
 mould take one ounce and three quarters of best isin- 
 glass, wash and put it into a stew-pan with two quarts 
 of filtered water and two ounces of sugar; place over 
 the fire; when it boils set it at the corner of the stove to 
 boil rather quick, taking off the scum as it rises, and 
 when reduced to half a pint, pass it through a napkin 
 into a basin; many add a piece of the rind of lemon to 
 take off the taste of the isinglass, which is quite unne- 
 cessary if the isinglass be good; a little lemon juice is 
 good, but the rind tints the isinglass yellow ; and when 
 used in white jelly of lemon, marasquin, aniseed, or any 
 other white liquor, this yellow injures the beauty of the 
 jelly ; the correct clarification of the isinglass and sugar 
 should be considered the chief part of the operation. 
 
272 
 
 PRESERVES. 
 JELLIES. 
 
 In making jams or jellies, boil the fruit a quarter of 
 an hour before the sugar is added. By this mode the 
 flavour is better, the colour retained, and the watery par- 
 ticles evaporate. Much care is necessary in this branch 
 of the art. Too large a quantity of fruit cannot be 
 well managed, the heat being required to act for too 
 long a time, which discolours the fruit, and contracts a 
 bitter taste from the copper, and its colour cannot be 
 kept, as in spite of the utmost care it will adhere to the 
 sides of the pan and blacken; some use the German 
 enamelled sauce-pan. The pots should not be tied until 
 the next day when they are perfectly cold. Cut white 
 paper the size of the interior of the pot, and dipped in 
 brandy when the jam or jelly is cold, with a double 
 paper tied over the top, and put away in a dry place. 
 
 AppLE JELLY.—Take John apples, codlings, or non- 
 such, pare and cut them in slices, put them into a deep 
 stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them; boil 
 them gently till they will mash, and then strain them 
 through a jelly-bag; to every pint of liquor add one 
 pound of loaf sugar; boil it till it comes to the top for 
 ten minutes, then pour it into a mould with or without 
 sliced lemon peel. A quart only should be done ata 
 time ; the apples should be full grown, but not too ripe. 
 This jelly will keep. 
 
 APPLE JELLY (Another way).—Take one hundred 
 good apples, either Hawthorn Deans or Kentish Codlings, 
 pare them, put them into a sauce-pan with only as much 
 water as will cover them, boil them to a pulp, then put them 
 into a flannel bag to let the juice run from them (care must 
 
 
 

 
 JELLIES. 273 
 
 be taken not to squeeze the bag or let it rub against any 
 thing) to every pint of juice add ten ounces of sugar, the 
 juice of a lemon and some of the peel, then boil it as you 
 would currant-jelly, and put it into moulds. 
 
 QuincE JeELLY.—Pare your quinces and take out the 
 core, then cut them in thin slices, put them in water as 
 you do them, then put them in a jar with a small quan- 
 tity of water, and let them boil six or eight hours in a 
 copper, strain the juice, and to every pint add a pound 
 of loaf sugar, boil and skim it well, then put it in shapes— 
 add a little juice. 
 
 OrAnGE JELLY.—Take one ounce and a half of isin- 
 glass, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar, melt 
 it in a pint of water, and boil it until it is a syrup with 
 some orange and lemon-peel in it, while it is warm add 
 the juice of six China oranges, three Seville oranges, and 
 two lemons, stir it well together, then strain it through a 
 jelly bag, and put it into moulds. The fruit should not 
 be boiled. | 
 
 ORANGE JELLY.— Grate the rind of two Seville 
 oranges, two China oranges, and two lemons, squeeze the 
 juice of three of each, and strain it, add the juice of a 
 quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and a quarter of a pint 
 of water, and boil it until it almost candies, have ready a 
 quart of isinglass jelly made with two ounces, put to it the 
 syrup, and boil it once up, strain off the jelly, and let it 
 stand to settle before putting it into the mould. 
 
 Puncn Jevtty.—Throw the peel of two good lemons 
 and half an ounce of tea into a syrup of clarified sugar 
 (about twelve or more ounces) nearly boiling; cover it, 
 and whilst it is cooling, run the juice of five lemons 
 through a jelly-bag, pass the liquor through a silk sieve, 
 and mix it with half a pint of good arrack or old rum, 
 and one ounce of isinglass clarified—it takes one ounce 
 and a half to make one ounce of clarified. Finish as 
 usual. 
 
 Jellies of lemons, oranges, pine-apples, and liqueurs and 
 wines, require more sugar and isinglass than jellies of 
 
 T 
 
274 JELLIES. 
 
 strawberries, raspberries, &c., which require their flavour 
 to be heightened with the juice of lemon. | 
 
 Jetty or CuErries.—Take the kernels and stalks 
 from two pounds of fine clear ripe cherries, and four 
 ounces of picked red currants, press the juice from the 
 fruit and pass it through the bag; mix three-quarters of 
 a pound of clarified sugar with it, and one ounce of elari- 
 fied isinglass, and finish in the aecustomed manner. 
 For every ounce of clarified isinglass, you must use one 
 ounce and a half. ier 
 
 When ready to serve, dip it into warm water in a ves- 
 sel large enough to admit the mould easily, turn it quickly 
 on to the dish and take off the mould. 
 
 JELLY oF Four Frurrs.—Haye four ounces of fine 
 cherries, the same of raspberries and strawberries, and 
 eight ounces of red currants, squeeze and run the juice 
 through the bag, mix it afterwards with syrup and isin- 
 giass, as in the gelée de cerisses, and finish as usual; or 
 the fruits may be infused in the sugar, and unless the 
 bag be very good, this is the best mode. 
 
 WHITE CurrANT JELLY.—After the fruit is stripped 
 from the stalks, put it into a pan, and when it boils, run it 
 through a sieve; take one pound of sugar to each pint of 
 juice, and let it boil twenty minutes. 
 
 Cauves’ Fret JELLY.—Two calves’ feet stewed in 
 three quarts of water to a strong jelly, the fat, when 
 cold, to be taken off very clean; add sugar, wine, lemon- 
 peel, and juice to your taste; and when boiling throw in 
 a cup of cold water, clear it with the whites of six eggs, 
 let it boil about twenty minutes, then take it off and let 
 it stand a little while, strain it through a flannel bag. 
 
 J’Mance.— Pour a pint of boiling water on half an 
 ounce of isinglass, let it. stand twelve hours, then boil it 
 one-third away, then put it to the juice of two lemons, 
 and sugar to your taste, two table-spoonfuls of Ratafia 
 or Mountain; when quite cool add the yolks of six eggs 
 and three whites, both well beaten and. strained; stir it 
 all one way on a slow fire, till it just. boils, then strain it. 
 
 Oe ee 
 
 
 

 
 COMPOTES, &c. 275 
 
 Wet the mould before you put it in. It will turn out 
 of the mould better if made twenty-four hours before 
 used, 
 
 To MAKE Rep CuRRANT JELLY WITHOUT BoiLina. 
 —Pick from the stalks, and strain either white or red 
 currants into a basin or pan (having first weighed the 
 pan), then weigh the juice. Take an equal quantity of 
 the finest loaf sugar, either roll or break it very small; 
 add it to the juice, and with a silver, or a bone spoon 
 (not iron), stir the mass till the sugar be dissolved ; it 
 will not require more than a quarter of an hour to effect 
 this, nor need it be constantly stirred. Put the syrup 
 into jelly glasses, or small jelly pots, leave it uncovered 
 till the morning, when it will be found to be se¢ and fit 
 to be tied over; tie down the pots, placing brandy paper 
 over, as. for other jams or jellies. 
 
 COMPOTES, &c. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY Foot, oR A COMPOTE OF GOOSEBER- 
 RiES.— The fruit being picked, must be put into a jar 
 with a small quantity of water, and kept in a boiling water 
 bath till it becomes tender. Force the pulp up through 
 a sieve, and mix half its weight, or more, of raw sugar 
 with it, then make the mixture scalding hot; or you may, 
 instead of pulping the gooseberries, when they are 
 stewed till they are tender, beat them well up with half 
 their weight of raw sugar, and then boil the compote for 
 a few minutes. When it is cold, put it into your pots, 
 and keep them in a cool place. 
 
 Comporte oF CuErrixs.—Let your cherries be ripe 
 and good; pick off the stems, and soak them in cold 
 water; drain them, and then put them into a sufficient 
 quantity of strong syrup, boil for some minutes ; take 
 off the scum, and when cold, put them into your com- 
 pote pot. Half a pound of sugar is usually necessary to 
 a pound of fruit. 
 
 _ Compote oF RASPBERRIES AND GOOSEBERRIES may | 
 be made in the same manner to that of cherries, 
 T 2 
 
276 COMPOTES, &c. 
 
 ComMpoTE OF PEACHES AND APRICOTS are made 
 similar to cherries, except that they are not left on the 
 fire so long. 
 
 Compote oF Pears.—Put your pears in wands aud 
 set them over the fire, in order that you may peel them 
 more readily. After which cut them into quarters, and 
 put them into cold water to prevent their turning black; 
 blanch them in boiling water, and plunge them again 
 into cold water. Clarify and boil some sugar into a 
 thick syrup, into which put your pears well drained ; 
 then put them into your compote pot or jar, add some 
 lemon-peel to them, and pour more of the syrup over 
 them. 
 
 Compote or APPLES is made in a similar way to the 
 pears, but a little more sugar is used. Syrups consist of 
 sugar dissolved in water or in the juices of fruits ; a good 
 rule to be adopted in their preparation, that in dissolving 
 sugar in water, it is necessary that the solution should 
 be completed by more or less boiling, and that all syrups 
 should be made of such consistence, that when cold, and 
 when poured out of a spoon or cup ima little stream, a 
 globule of the syrup should rise up to the cup with an 
 elastic rebound, a proof that the syrup is thick enough to 
 keep ; if made thicker it will candy, and if made thinner 
 it will ferment. 
 
 CompoTE oF ORANGE. — Take four or six fine 
 oranges, take off the skin, and with the point of a knife 
 take off all the threads ; have half a pound of clarified 
 sugar hot in a basin, cut them into slices and put them 
 in the sugar, dress them in a compote dish, and serve with 
 the syrup poured over them. 
 
 Orance Marmarape.—Procure Seville oranges, 
 stew them till they become so tender, that you can 
 pierce them with a straw, changing the water two or 
 three times. Drain them, take off the rind, weigh the 
 pulps, previously taking out the pips ; and supposing the 
 quantity to be six pounds, add seven of sugar; boil it 
 slowly till the syrup be clear, then add the peel, having 
 eut it into strips. Boil it again, and it is finished. 
 
 
 

 
 S 
 COMPOTES, &c. a 
 
 This is a new method, and found to be excellent as well 
 as economical. Seville oranges are in their best state at 
 the end of March or beginning of April. 
 
 To PRESERVE ORANGES WHOLE.—Put the oranges 
 into strong salt and water, for a week, changing it twice 
 during that time, then put them into fresh water for a 
 day, cut a hole and take out the seeds, put them into a 
 thin syrup, let them boil very gently, closely covered for 
 half an hour, when taken from the fire place them in a 
 jar with the hole upwards, fill them with syrup, and 
 repeat the boiling every day, until they are clear. Two 
 pounds of sugar, and one pint and a half of water for 
 three oranges ; the last time strain the syrup. 
 
 TRANSPARENT MarMatape.—Cut the palest Seville 
 oranges in quarters, take the pulp out, and put it in a 
 basin, prick out the seeds and skins. Let the outsides 
 soak in water with a litéle salt all night, then let them 
 boil with a good quantity of spring water till tender, 
 drain and rub them into very thin slices, and put them 
 to the pulp, and to every pound of fruit, one pound and 
 a half of double refined sugar, beaten very fine, boil 
 them together twenty minutes, and be very careful not 
 to break the slices. If not quite clear, simmer it for six 
 or eight minutes longer; it must be stirred very gently, 
 and, when cold, put into glasses or China. No sweet 
 Sevilles to be mixed with it. 
 
 ANOTHER OrAnGE MarmMaLApDE.—Cut the Seville 
 oranges in halves, take out the pulp and clear it from the 
 seeds and skin, let the peels lay one night in cold water, 
 then tie them up in a cloth, and boil them in a sauce-pan 
 without a lid till they are sufficiently soft for a pin to run 
 through them (the water should cover them) ; when done, 
 cut them in very small slips ; before the oranges are out 
 weigh them, and to every pound of fruit put half a 
 pound of loaf-sugar, clarify it with a small quantity of 
 water, then add the juice, the pulp, and the peel, and 
 boil all together till it is of a proper thickness; half an 
 hour is sufficient. | | 
 
 To PRESERVE Metons.—Pare off the rind, and take 
 out the seeds, then put it into water, and let it remain 
 
278 COMPOTES, &e. 
 
 until it is mouldy, that is, two or three days, then put it 
 in fresh water, over the fire, to coddle for some time, 
 but do not let ct boil, as that will spoil it; with a pint of 
 water and a pound of sugar make a syrup; when it boils 
 skim it, and put the melon in, and boil it a little while, 
 then put it into a jar, and boil the syrup every day for a 
 fortnight, and put it, when almost cold, on the melon, 
 the last time it must be quite cold; the last time you 
 boil the syrup, put in a muslin bag two tea-spoonfuls of 
 pounded ginger, and the juice and rind of two lemons, 
 and boil with it. It may be whole, half, or in quarters. 
 
 EneuisH Crrron.—Take six full-sized cucumbers, 
 divide them lengthways, take all the seeds out, put them 
 in a deep pan, pour boiling water over them morning 
 and evening, keep them close covered up with a cloth 
 and a plate for fourteen days, then take them from the 
 water and wipe them very dry; make a syrup of four 
 pounds of loaf sugar, the rind of four lemons, and two 
 ounces of ginger; it must be laid in water the night 
 before you boil the sugar, that it may be able to be 
 stirred; put the ginger and lemon peel to the sugar, with 
 just enough water to dissolve the latter, and when it 
 boils throw the cucumbers into it, and just scald them, 
 then put all into a jar. The syrup must be boiled up 
 every other morning for three weeks, and poured over 
 them, dip a paper in brandy and lay over them, and 
 cover them closely. 
 
 Cuerry JaAm.—To twelve pounds of Kentish or Duke 
 cherries, when ripe, weigh one pound and a half of 
 sugar ; break the stones of part and blanch the kernels, 
 put them to the fruit and sugar, and boil all gently till 
 the jam comes clear from the pan, pour it into China 
 plates to come up dry to table. Keep in boxes, with 
 white paper between them. 
 
 Lemon so_ip.—Half an ounce of isinglass dissolved 
 in the smallest quantity of water possible, then strain it 
 into a basin, to which must be added a pint of cream, the 
 juice and rind of two lemons, very finely sifted, sweeten 
 it to your taste, stir the whole together, and put it into 
 a mould. 
 
 
 
CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, &c. 279 
 
 AnoTuer Lemon Souip.— Melt one ounce of isinglass 
 in one pint of cream, and one pint of new milk mixed, 
 pour the above boiling, on the juice of four lemons, and 
 the peel of two lemons, and a quarter of a pound of pounded 
 loaf sugar, whisk these ingredients till cold, and then 
 put them into a mould. To be made twenty-four hours 
 before used. 
 
 CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, &c. 
 
 AppLE Crram.— Take six large apples, a piece of 
 butter, and some cinnamon; stew them together, pass 
 them through a sieve, and put them to cool, dissolve three 
 quarters of an ounce of isinglass in a little water, whisk 
 half a pint of cream to a strong froth, then add the 
 apples with some fine powdered sugar, stir it all well 
 together, and put it into a mould. 
 
 Irarian Cream.—A pint and a half of double cream 
 to be whipped a quarter of an hour, sweeten it with 
 sugar; mix with it a glass of brandy and one of wine, 
 add half an ounce of isinglass, melted in the smallest 
 possible quantity of water, put it into a mould six hours 
 before dinner, and then turn it out. 
 
 CHARLOTTE (CALLED Rvssian).—Butter the mould 
 {a plain one), split some sponge biscuits and pack them 
 close, the brown outside, take a pint of rich cream, 
 sweeten it, and add a little orange Hower-water, dissolve 
 half of three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, and when 
 scarcely cold, put it into the cream and whisk it for 
 twenty minutes; put it into the mould, and set it in a 
 cool place to stand all night. 
 
 Currant Foou.—Put one pint of currants nicely 
 picked from the stalks, and half a pottle of raspberries 
 into a stone jar, which place in a sauce-pan of water, 
 simmer them gently for a quarter of an hour, when cold, 
 put a quarter of a pound of sugar to them; add a pint 
 of milk by degrees, stirring it all the time, strain through 
 a fine sieve. 
 
280 CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, &e. 
 
 APPLE Foou.—Pare, core, and cut into thin bits, some 
 good stewing apples; stew them with a little water, till 
 tender, two cloves, a bit of cinnamon, and the peel of half a 
 lemon; pulp half a pound through a sieve, and add the 
 same weight of brown sugar, the juice of a lemon, and 
 the whites of two eggs; beat them all together for an 
 hour. Serve it upon rich cream, or a boiled custard, m 
 a glass dish. 
 
 It may be made in the same way as gooseberry fool, 
 as may also stewed rhubarb. 
 
 Orance Foou. — Mix the strained juice of three 
 Seville oranges with six well-beaten eggs, a pint of 
 cream, some grated nutmeg and lemon-peel; sweeten 
 with pounded loaf sugar, and stir it over a slow fire till 
 it is as thick as a custard, but do not allow it to boil; 
 pour it, when a little cool, into a glass dish or custard 
 cups; put sifted loaf sugar over the top. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY CusTarD.—Coddle a quart of goose- 
 berries, run them through a sieve with a little of the 
 liquor, add to it four yolks and two whites of eggs, 
 sweeten it to your palate, put to it four spoonfuls of cream 
 before you heat it all up together. : 
 
 RaTAFiIA CrEAM.— Boil | three or four laurel Near in 
 a pint of very thick cream, strain it, when cold put in 
 the yolks of three eggs beaten and strained, sugar and @ 
 spoonful of brandy stirred quick into it, then scald it tall 
 thick, stirring it all the time, 
 
 Rock Cream.—Put into the crystal dish you send to 
 table, three spoonfuls of lemon-juice, with a little of the 
 peel grated, and two table-spoonfuls. of apricot, straw- 
 berry, or raspberry jam; then take one pint of cream, 
 one ounce of isinglass, sugar, and one ounce of sweet al- 
 monds pounded fme;.- boil all these a very little time, and 
 then let it stand till of the warmth of new milk, then pour, 
 it over the ingredients in the crystal dish ; when cold,. 
 stick it with almonds. The isinglass to be dissolved in 
 milk first, and then strained through a sieve. To be 
 made the day before it is required. 
 
 Lemon Possert.—Take the juice of two large le- 
 
 
 
CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, &c. 281 
 
 mons, and put it into the crystal dish you send to table; 
 then have a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, one pint of 
 thick cream boiled with the rind of two lemons cut very 
 thin. Let it stand till nearly cold, put it in a large jug 
 with a large spout, and pour it on the lemon-juice, in the 
 dish; it should be held at a great distance when pouring 
 it on the juice to make it a curd. To be made twenty- 
 four hours before used. Orange possett to be made the 
 same way. 
 
 VANILLA CrEAM.— Boil half a stick of vanilla ina 
 quarter of a pint of new milk until it has a very high 
 flavour; have ready a jelly of an ounce of isinglass to a 
 pint of water, which mix with the milk, and a pint and 
 a quarter of fine cream, sweeten with fine sugar unbroken, 
 and stir till nearly cold; then dip a mould into cold 
 water, and pour the whole into it. Make it the day be- 
 fore it is wanted. 
 
 Stone Cream.—Take half an ounce of isinglass dis- 
 solved in a little water, then put one pint of good cream 
 sweetened to the taste; boil it ; when nearly cold, lay 
 some apricot or raspberry-jam on the bottom of a glass 
 dish, and pour it over. 
 
 This is an excellent cream. 
 
 Lemon Cream.—Take the peel of two lemons cut 
 very thin, pour half a pint of boiling water on them, 
 and let them stand an hour, with half a pound of loaf 
 sugar ; after that, squeeze the juice of three lemons into 
 the water, take three whites of eggs and one yolk, beat 
 very well, mix all together and strain it into your 
 sauce-pan, let it boil five minutes, stirring it all the 
 ‘time it is on the fire; pour it into the glasses while hot. 
 
 Lemon PEEL.— Few servants are aware of the reason 
 that lemon-peel should be cut very thin; and they ought 
 to be informed, that the scent and flavour, which consti- 
 tute its use and value, reside in minute cells, close to the 
 surface of the fruit; and that by slicing it exceedingly 
 thin, they will cut through the whole of these innumerable 
 cells, and thus procure double the quantity that could be 
 obtained by one who is careless or ignorant of this cir- 
 
282 CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, &c. 
 
 cumstance. The cells being cut through, it necessarily 
 follows, that a great part of the oil remains in the white 
 of the lemon; and this is easily abstracted, by means of a 
 lump of sugar being rubbed over it. ‘The practice of 
 rubbing the unwounded peel, is a tedious process, which 
 would be much facilitated by the thin cutting, abovenamed. 
 A slice of the peel, when cut into the white, is of little if 
 any use; as the cells containing the essential oil remain 
 entire. 
 
 
 
283 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR PICKLING. 
 
 Guerxins.—Put them into a jar; then fill the jar 
 with salt and water ; put them to stand a small distance 
 from the fire, for four or five days, or till they begin to 
 look yellow ; then pour the salt and water from them, 
 and put hot vinegar to them ; put vine leaves over, and 
 cover them down close with a clean cloth, and let them 
 stand till nearly cold ; then boil the vinegar again, and 
 pour it over them ; the vinegar should be put hot over 
 them three times. 
 
 Boil a quarter of an ounce of mace, one ounce of 
 white pepper, two ounces of ginger, one ounce of long 
 
 epper, one ounce of bay salt, in two quarts of vinegar ; 
 it should boil about a quarter of an hour. About three 
 minutes before it is taken off the fire, put in twelve 
 shalots, and pour the vinegar that greened the gherkins 
 from them, and put the hot vinegar and spice on them 
 instead. When quite cold, cover the jar with a bladder, 
 and, over the bladder, put white leather. 
 
 The above quantity of spice and vinegar is sufficient 
 for about a hundred. French beans should go through 
 the same process, and samphire the same. 
 
 Watnuts.—When the walnuts are full grown, and 
 will admit a pin to go through them, they are in good 
 order for pickling ; put them into a strong brine of salt 
 and water; they should remain in the pickle about 
 eight days, so as to get all the bitter from them; the 
 pickle should be changed twice during that time ; if they 
 are wanted to look black, put them on a cloth that will 
 admit their being spread, and lay them out where the 
 sun will come on them, until they change colour. Take 
 two ounces of whole white pepper ; two ounces of white 
 _ mustard seed ; four ounces of whole ginger ; a stick of 
 horse-radish, clean scraped, and cut in slices ; two 
 
284 PICKLING. 
 
 ounces of allspice ; two ounces of long pepper ; and one 
 ounce of mace. Boil them all in four quarts of vinegar, 
 for a quarter of an hour ; put about twenty-four shalots, 
 and two cloves of garlic, about two minutes before the 
 vinegar is taken off the fire; put it over the walnuts 
 when cold. 
 
 Ontons.—Small button onions, what are called the 
 silver onions, are the best sort. Put them into hot 
 water, to peel easily ; there should be three skins taken 
 off ; but be very particular not to cut the root, and put 
 them in salt and water, as you peel them ; then scald 
 them over a slow fire, so as to let them simmer for two 
 or three minutes ; take them out, and lay them on a 
 clean cloth, and cover them over with another ; if any of 
 the skins are cracked, take it off, as they should be very 
 even; then put vinegar (quantity according to your 
 onions) into a bright tinned stew-pan, a little mace, and 
 whole white pepper ; it should boil about ten minutes, 
 and left to get cold. Meanwhile put the onions into 
 bottles ; when the vinegar is quite cold, put it to the 
 onions ; cover them very tight with bladder, and leather 
 over that ; in about three weeks they will be fit for use. © 
 
 Rep Cassace.—Get cabbage firm and close ; cut 
 in quarters ; after taking off the outside leaves, cut out 
 the white stalk inside; put it on a large sieve, and 
 ‘sprinkle it with salt ; let it lay so two or three days. 
 Put some white-wine vinegar into a stew-pan ; to two 
 quarts put two ounces of allspice, two ounces of whole 
 ginger, bruised, one ounce of black pepper ; let it boil 
 for a quarter of an hour; put the cabbage into stone 
 jars, and to each put a large beet-root, three parts 
 boiled, peeled, and cut in slices, Strain the spice from 
 the vinegar ; give it another boil to make it hot, and put 
 it over the cabbage, beet-root, &c. When cold, tie it 
 over with bladder and leather. | 
 
 Mancors ANd CucuMBERS.—Choose those that feel 
 the heaviest and quite sound, and of good shape ; put 
 them into salt and water for six days; cut a square 
 piece out of the side, and take all the seeds out, and fill 
 
 
 
PICKLING. 285 
 
 the place with mustard-seed, whole white pepper, sha- 
 lots, and one very small piece of garlic ; put the mangoes 
 into a jar, have boiling vinegar to pour over them, and 
 put plenty of vine-leaves on the top ; cover the jar over 
 close, to keep the steam in, and let them stand till cold; 
 repeat pouring the hot vinegar over them four or five 
 times ; then, to one gallon of vinegar, put four ounces 
 of bruised ginger, two ounces of whole white pepper, 
 a quarter of an ounce of bruised chillies, two ounces of 
 allspice, a stick of horse-radish, scraped, one pound of 
 mustard (mixed with the vinegar), two ounces of tur- 
 meric, about half a pound of shalots peeled (to be put in 
 the vinegar for two or three minutes), and two cloves 
 of garlic ; boil all for half an hour; then put it into a 
 pan to cool ; when quite cold, put it over the mangoes, 
 first pouring the vinegar from them ; cover the jars with 
 bladder and leather. 
 
 PiccaLiu1i consists of all kinds of pickles, mixed, 
 and put into one large jar: gherkins, sliced cucumbers, 
 button-onions, cauliflower broken in pieces, salted, and 
 dried in the sun for several days, then scalded in vinegar 
 for five minutes; when cold, put with the other pickles, 
 hard drum cabbages, cut in quarters, the stalk cut out, 
 cut in slices, salted and dried in the sun, then scalded as 
 cauliflower. Carrots, better than half boiled, and cut 
 in shapes, French beans, rock-samphire, raddish-pods, 
 Cayenne-pods, and stertions, all go through the same 
 process, except Cayenne-pods, for green pickles: to one 
 gallon of the best white-wine vinegar put four ounces of 
 bruised ginger, two ounces of whole white pepper, two 
 ounces of allspice, half an ounce of bruised chillies, two 
 ounces of turmeric, one pound of best mustard, half a 
 pound of shalots, one ounce of garlic, half a pound of 
 bay-salt, and the same of common salt, and boil it fora 
 quarter of an hour. The shalots and garlic only three 
 minutes; the mustard and turmeric should be mixed 
 with a little of the vinegar before it is put in to boil. 
 When done, put it into a pan to cool; when quite cold, 
 put it to the mixed pickle, first straining through a 
 
286 PICKLING. 
 
 coarse hair sieve, the shalots and garlic picked from the 
 spice, and put with the pickle ; the best way to mix it 
 is to put the pickles all together in a large pan, and 
 half the liquor, and stir it all together with a wooden 
 spoon; then put it into a jar, and the remainder of the 
 liquor; cover the jar very tight with bladder, and 
 leather over it; it will be all the better, if not used until 
 six months after it is made. 
 
 Musurooms { White).—Take button mushrooms, as 
 soon as possible after being gathered (and the earlier 
 they are gathered in the morning, the whiter they will 
 be, as the sun turns them brown) ; first, have a basin of 
 milk and water, with a lemon squeezed into it, and a 
 little salt ; then clean the mushrooms with a piece of 
 flannel, and a little salt ; cut off the root, and any rough 
 edges that they may have, and put them into the milk 
 and water. When this is done, lay them on a clean 
 cloth, and cover them over with another; then put them 
 into a well-tinned stew-pan, put in a little salt, whole 
 white pepper, and a few blades of mace; put the stew- 
 pan over a very slow fire; let them simmer for five 
 minutes, they will discharge a great deal of juice, which 
 must be reduced by boiling, then add distilled vinegar 
 to cover the mushrooms. While the liquor is reducing, 
 lay the mushrooms between two dry cloths. When the 
 vinegar has boiled a few minutes, put the mushrooms 
 into a basin, and pour the vinegar over them; when 
 cold, put. them imto wide-mouthed bottles, cork them 
 tight; and wax them over. ‘They will answer kitchen 
 purposes, or for pickles. 
 
 Musurooms (Brown) should be rather larger than 
 the white ones, and cleaned the same way; put them 
 into a stew-pan, with a little salt and ground white 
 pepper, and a little mace, let them boil slowly for a 
 quarter of an hour; add a glass of good wine, and as 
 much white-wine vinegar as you think will, with their 
 own liquor, cover them; when cold, put them in wide- 
 mouthed bottles, cork, and wax them over. 
 
 
 
PICKLING. 287 
 ON FRUITS, &c. 
 
 GoosEBERRIES. —The small rough ones (which must 
 -be full grown, but not ripe) are the best sort, cut the 
 tops and tails off, put them in bottles, and put them into 
 a pot (a fish-kettle is the best, if you have one), fill it 
 up with water, as high as the bottle will admit ; when 
 the water boils, if the gooseberries are not scalded 
 through, add a little cold water, to check the boiling, 
 when it boils again take the bottles out, and when cold, 
 fill up those that have shrunk; then cork and wax them. 
 To be kept in a cold dry cellar. 
 
 Damsons.—The damsons should not be too ripe, and 
 not bruised ; put them into wide-mouthed bottles, then 
 in a slow-oven ; let them remain till warm through; as 
 they shrink very much, they must be filled quite full 
 from the bottle that has the least.in it; cork them as tight 
 as possible, and rosin them. 
 
 Buus Puums.—Put them in jars, three parts full, 
 and fill them up with moist sugar; put them in a slow 
 oven for four hours, or until they have boiled ; the jar 
 should be quite filled ; when cold, put paper first, a 
 bladder over it, and leather over the whole. 
 
 N.B.—Housekeepers should make a regular maxim 
 to look over their preserves and pickles—once in two 
 months, or oftener. 
 
 SHaLot VineGAR.—Peel and split about two ounces 
 of shalots; put them into a quart bottle, and fill it up 
 with white-wine vinegar, stop it closely, and in a month 
 it will be fit for use. Pour off the clear liquor, and put 
 it into small bottles. It.is necessary to shake the bottles 
 occasionally. 
 
 Shalots are in high perfection during July, August, 
 and September. 
 
 GarRLic VINEGAR.—Garlic is ready for this purpose 
 from Midsummer to Michaelmas. 
 
 Pull and chop two ounces of garlic, pour on them a 
 quart of white-wine vinegar, stop the jar close, and let it 
 
288 PICKLING. 
 
 steep ten days, shaking it well every day; then pour off 
 the clear liquor into small bottles. 
 
 Be careful not to use too much of this, a few drops of 
 it will give a pint of gravy a sufficient taste of the gar- 
 lic, the flavour of which, when slight and well blended, 
 is one of the finest we have; when used in excess, it is 
 the most unpleasant. 
 
 QUINTESSENCE OF LEMONPEEL.— Best oil of lemon one 
 drachm, strongest rectified spirits two ounces, introduced by 
 degrees till the spirit kills and completely mixes with the 
 oil. This elegant preparation possesses all the delightful 
 fragrance and flavour of the fresh cut lemon peel. 
 
 Observe :—A few drops on the sugar you make punch 
 with, will instantly impregnate it with as much flavour 
 as the troublesome and tedious method of grating the 
 rind, or rubbing the sugar on it. 
 
 It will be found a superlative substitute for fresh 
 lemon peel, for every purpose that it is used for. Blane 
 mange, jellies, custards, ice, negus, lemonade, pies and 
 puddings, stuffings, soups, sauces, ragouts, &c. 
 
 KssENCE OF GINGER.—Steep in a pint of brandy one 
 ounce of lemon-peel, and one ounce and a half of ginger, 
 fresh grated. Let it stand for ten days, then strain and 
 bottle. 
 
 EssENnCcE OF CELERY.—A quarter of a pint of brandy, 
 or proof spirit, half an ounce (avoirdupois weight) of 
 celery seed bruised. Let it steep for a fortnight. 
 
 N.B.—A few drops will immediately flavour a pint 
 of broth, and are an excellent addition to peas and 
 other soups, and the salad mixture of oil, vinegar, &c. 
 
 Basti VINEGAR.—Sweet basil is in full perfection 
 about the middle of August. 
 
 Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves 
 of basil (these give much more, and a finer flavour 
 than the dried), and cover them with vinegar, and let 
 them steep for ten days; if you wish a very strong - 
 essence, strain the liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, 
 and let them steep for ten days more. ; 
 
 
 
PICKLING. 289 
 
 N.B. This is a very agreeable addition to sauces, 
 soups, and to the mixture usually made for salads. 
 
 GREEN Mint Vinecar.—Is made precisely in the 
 same manner, and with the same proportions. 
 
 To MAKE PickLE For Brawn.—Take a sufficient 
 quantity of water, more than will cover your brawn ; to 
 every gallon of water, add half a pint of whole malt, and 
 salt enough to give it a strong relish; let it boil one 
 hour, then strain it into a vessel ; when cold, pour it off 
 into another, keeping back the white sediment. Put 
 your brawn into salt and water till your pickle is 
 ready. 
 
 N.B. When the brawn comes to hand it should be 
 rubbed with salt, then rinced, and dried with a cloth; at 
 the time of changing the pickle, the brawn should be 
 also rubbed, &c. Make fresh pickle once a fortnight. 
 
 To PickLe Lemons.—Cut twelve lemons through the 
 rind in four places, fill them with salt, and rub them 
 well with it. Let them remain in the brine three or 
 four days, turning them every day, then rub them with 
 Cayenne pepper, and cover them with vinegar, brown 
 mustard seed, ginger, and Jamaica pepper, of each one 
 handful, stop them close, add garlic if approved of ; will 
 be fit for use in three months. 
 
 PicKLE FOR GREEN FRUIT OR VEGETABLES.--One 
 pint of vinegar, a quarter of a pound of salt, one ounce 
 of whole ginger, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an 
 ounce of white pepper, half an ounce of mustard seed, 
 half a dessert-spoonful of Cayenne, a quarter of a pound 
 of garlic, and some scraped horse-radish. All these in- 
 gredients to be boiled together for a quarter of an hour, 
 when cold put it into a jar, you may put any kind of 
 fresh gathered vegetables and green fruit into this 
 pickle, taking care they are first rubbed dry; kidney- 
 beans and cauliflowers must be first scalded a little. 
 
 InpIAN PickLE.—One gallon of vinegar, four ounces 
 of curry powder, four ounces of flour mustard, three 
 ounces of ginger bruised, one ounce of turmeric, and half 
 a pound (when skinned) of shalots, slightly baked in a 
 
 U 
 
290 PICKLING. 
 
 Dutch oven; two ounces of garlic prepared in like man- 
 ner, a quarter of a pound of salt, two drachms of Cay- 
 enne pepper. Put these ingredients into a stone jar 
 covered with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it 
 on a trivet by the side of a fire for three days, shaking: it 
 up three times a day; it will be then ready to receive 
 gherkins, sliced cucumbers, celery, sliced onions, button 
 onions, cauliflower, stertions, brocoli, French beans, 
 and capsicums; all these articles are to be separately 
 parboiled (except the capsicums) in a brine of salt 
 water, strong enough to bear an egg; taken out and 
 thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stone, or before the 
 fire for a couple of days; and then put imto the pickle. 
 Any thing may be put into this pickle, excepting red 
 eabbage and walnuts. It will keep several years. If 
 small green melons are used, they must be slit open suf- 
 ficiently to admit a marrow spoon, with which take out 
 all the seeds, and when parboiled, as before directed, 
 fill them with mustard seed, and one clove of garlic in 
 each. 
 
 Waunut Ketcuur.—Take walnuts fit for pickling ; 
 beat them well in a mortar till they are plushed ; squeeze 
 the juice from them; let it stand one day to settle; then 
 pour off the clear; to every pint of juice add one pound 
 of anchovies ; set it over the fire till the anchovies are all 
 dissolved ; strain it off clear, and, to every quart, put 
 one ounce of shalots, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a 
 quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of 
 Jamaica pepper, half a pint of white-wine vinegar ; let 
 them boil a quarter of an hour altogether, and, when 
 cold, bottle it off for use. 
 
 Savoury Racgour Powper.—An ounce of salt; © 
 half an ounce of mustard; a quarter of an ounce of all- 
 spice ;* half an ounce of black pepper, ground ; half an 
 ounce of lemon-peel, grated; a quarter of an ounce of 
 (each) ginger and nutmeg, grated ; Cayenne pepper, 
 two drachms. 
 
 * If you like the flavour, and de not dislike the expense, 
 instead of allspice, put in mace and cloves, 
 
 
 
PICKLING. 291 
 
 Pound them gradually, and pass them through a fine 
 hair sieve; bottle them for use. . The above articles will 
 pound easier and finer, if they are dried first in a Dutch 
 oven, before a very gentle fire, at a good distance from it ; 
 of you give them much heat, the fine. flavour of them will 
 be presently evaporated, and they will soon get a strong 
 and rank taste. 
 
 N. B. Infused in a quart of vinegar in wine, they 
 make a savoury relish for soups, sauces, &c. 
 
 CAYENNE PEPPER.—Capsicums and chilies are ripe 
 and red, and in finest condition during September and 
 October ; they may be purchased at the herb-shops in 
 Covent-garden. 
 
 Take a hundred large chilies (which will produce 
 about two ounces of Cayenne), take away the stalks, and 
 put the pods into a colander ; set it before the fire ; they 
 will take full twelve hours to dry ; then put them into a 
 mortar, with one-fourth their weight of salt, and pound 
 them; rub them till they are as ine as possible, and 
 put them into a well-stopped bottle. 
 
 N. B. Some put them into an oven to dry. 
 
 EssENncE or CAYENNE.—Put half an ounce of Cayenne 
 pepper into half a pint of brandy (or wine) ; let it steep 
 for a fortnight, and then pour off the clear liquor. 
 
 This is nearly equal to fresh chili juice. 
 
 N.B. This, or the chili vinegar, is extremely con- 
 venient for the ex tempore seasoning and finishing of 
 soups, sauces, &c., its flavour being instantly and 
 equally diffused. 
 
 SHaLort Wine.—Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, 
 three ounces of shalots, and infuse them in a pint of 
 sherry for ten days; then pour off the clear liquor on 
 three ounces more shalots, and let the wine stand on 
 them for ten days longer. 
 
 Observe.—This is rather the most expensive, but 
 infinitely the most elegant preparation of shalot, and 
 imparts the onion flavour of soups and sauces, for chops, 
 steaks, or boiled meats, hashes, &c., more agreeably than 
 any; it does not leave any unpleasant taste in the 
 
 u2 
 
292 PICKLING. 
 
 mouth, or to the breath, nor repeat, as almost all other 
 preparations of garlic, onion, &c., do. 
 
 N. B. An ounce of scraped horse-radish may be added 
 to the above, and a little thin cut lemon-peel. 
 
 Cum Vinecar.—This is commonly made with the 
 foreign bird pepper ; but you will obtain a much finer 
 flavour from infusing fifty fresh red English chilies 
 (cut in half or pounded) in a pint of the best vinegar, 
 for a fortnight. 
 
 Camp VinEGAR.—One drachm (avoirdupois weight) 
 of Cayenne pepper ; two table-spoonfuls of soy; four 
 table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup; six anchovies, 
 chopped ; a small clove of garlic, minced fine. Steep 
 all for a month in a pint of the best vinegar, frequently 
 shaking the bottle; strain through a tammy, and keep 
 it in small bottles, corked as tightly as possible. 
 
 TARRAGON VineEGAR.—Fill a wide-mouthed bottle 
 with fresh-gathered tarragon leaves, 2. e., between mid- 
 summer and Michaelmas (which should be gathered on 
 a dry day, just before it flowers), and pick the leaves 
 off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire ; cover 
 them with the best vinegar; let them steep fourteen 
 days; then strain through a flannel jelly-bag, till it is 
 fine ; pour it into half-pint bottles; cork them carefully, 
 and keep them in a dry place. 
 
 N. B. You may prepare elder-flowers and herbs in the 
 same manner. 
 
 HorsrE-RADISH VINEGAR.—Horse-radish 1s in highest 
 perfection about November. 
 
 Pour a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped 
 horse-radish, one ounce of minced shalot, and one 
 drachm of Cayenne ; let it stand a week, and you will 
 have an excellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c., costing 
 scarcely any thing. 
 
 N. Bb. A portion of black pepper and mustard, celery, 
 or cress-seed, may be added to the above. 
 
 Mernop or Pickiinc RED OR ANY OTHER CAB- 
 BAGE.—Cut your cabbage into fine threads ; boil them 
 in water for some minutes ; next, put them into alternate. 
 
 
 
PICKLING. 293 
 
 layers, with some salt, pepper, and cloves, in a stone jar, 
 which fill with strong vinegar, to which add a tenth of 
 brandy ; tie it over with parchment, or a bladder ; they 
 will keep thus during the whole year. The vinegar for 
 pickling must be of the very best, completely to cover 
 the article pickled, and the jars well closed from the 
 air. : 
 Cauliflowers may be pickled in precisely the same way 
 as directed for cabbage, taking care to separate them 
 into convenient pieces before putting them into pickle. 
 
 SALPICONS are made with all sorts of meats, vegeta- 
 bles, such as truffles, artichokes, bottoms, and mushrooms; 
 but every thing must be put in equal proportions; it is 
 necessary to have them all cooked apart, so that they may 
 be perfectly done as each requires. 
 
294 
 
 ON VEGETABLES, AND ON THE MODE OF 
 CHOOSING AND DRESSING THEM. | 
 
 “‘ No country produces better esculent vegetables than 
 England,” says the Magazine of Domestic Economy, 
 “ because in no other country are they so carefully culti- 
 vated. Yet it is singular that, though we possess them 
 in such perfection and abundance—though in the mar- 
 kets of London, they may often be obtained at a much 
 _ cheaper rate than in those of Paris—though such im- 
 mense pains are taken, and such sacrifices of capital 
 made for the improvement of our market-gardens, the 
 superiority of our vegetables ceases the moment they pass 
 the threshold of the kitchen-door; for they are, generally 
 speaking, totally spoiled in the dressing. This we can- 
 not too often repeat, or impress too strongly upon the 
 minds of our readers. It is not surprising that, in all 
 cases of gastric debility, or tendency to dyspepsia, which 
 occur in the country, the use of vegetables is prohibited 
 by our medical attendants, because the half crude state 
 in which vegetables are eaten at our tables, as an accom- 
 paniment only to meat, and not as dishes of themselves, 
 is generative of the host of stomach diseases which afflict 
 those of sedentary habits and pursuits—and these form 
 the majority of the middle classes in all great cities.” 
 
 How tro Bom VEGETABLES.—Boil your vegetables 
 a sufficient time, changing the water several times dur- 
 ing the operation, and adding a little sugar, salt, or spice 
 as the case may require, which destroys any rankness or 
 disagreeable flavour it may have—and the most agreeable 
 of which it is susceptible rendered predominant. 
 
 BaTTEeR FoR FryinG VEGETABLES.—Six spoonfuls 
 of sifted flour, a little salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and 
 
 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 295 
 
 stale ale sufficient to make a batter, which must not be 
 very thin. Then beat up well the whites of two eggs, 
 and when very highly beaten, mix them with the batter, 
 stirring it continually with a wooden spoon. The vege- 
 tables, well drained and boiled, must be mixed with the 
 batter and placed with a skewer one by one in the frying- 
 pan, so that they shall not adhere to each other. To 
 fry them, use lard or clarified dripping.—Hand Book of 
 Cookery. 
 
 To Dress Sprnacu. — Pick it very carefully, and 
 wash it several times in a great deal of water. Then 
 put some salt to a large quantity of water in a boiler; 
 when it boils, put in the spinach. This must float, and 
 you must often press it down with a wooden spoon. 
 When it can be easily squeezed between the fingers, let 
 it drain in a colander, and throw over it a pailful of eold 
 water. When well drained,; make it into balls, and 
 squeeze out all the water by pressing it in your hands as 
 hard as you possibly can. Then spread it on the table 
 and chop it as small as possible, after which pound and 
 rub it in a mortar, until it is reduced to a paste. It is 
 now fit for use, and will remain good for several days in 
 this form, provided it be kept in a cool place.— Hand 
 Book of Cookery. z 
 
 Purte or Driep Peas.—This is what we commonly 
 call peas-pudding, but of a more refined kind. Peas- 
 pudding, as usually made, is indigestible, nauseous, and 
 unwholesome. The purée is the best form. Boil the 
 peas in a bag until they are very tender, then rub them 
 first through a colander, afterwards through a sieve. 
 Put the purée over the fire in a stew-pan, with a lump of 
 clarified dripping, and a little gravy or stock broth. 
 Season with pepper and salt, and dish it well up when of 
 a good consistency. Or it may be prepared entirely 
 with fresh butter.— Hand Book of Cookery. 
 
 Wuitt Kipnrey-Beans.— These are never used in 
 England except as seed, but they form a very wholesome 
 
 farmaceous vegetable. They must be soaked in cold 
 
296 VEGETABLES. 
 
 water all night before they are boiled; then put them 
 over the fire in cold water with a little salt. When they 
 
 begin to be tender, and have swollen to their full size, — 
 
 throw in a cupful of cold water to check the boiling. 
 
 Let them boil up again very gently; they will then 
 
 crack. When they begin to do so, take them off the 
 fire; let them stand a few minutes in the water, then 
 drain them in a colander. They make an excellent 
 purée to be served up with any meat, being mixed with 
 gravy, or butter, and seasoned. They are also very 
 good, placed in the dish whole, under any roasted joint. 
 ——Hand Book of Cookery. 
 
 CrLERY.—This vegetable is more frequently eaten 
 raw. When dressed, it is stimulating and easy of diges- 
 tion, and is admirable for persons debilitated by excess. 
 
 Take the largest and whitest heads. Stew them in a 
 
 little water, with some salt and a small bit of butter in it. 
 Serve them up with white sauce. They may be also 
 bleached, and stewed in good gravy, thickened with flour 
 and buiten and flavoured with a little lemon } juice.— 
 Hand Book of Cookery. 
 
 GREEN PrAs.—In the London markets it requires 
 
 some experience to choose this vegetable. The shelled 
 peas should never be purchased, because, even when 
 young, they are never of the best quality; and, in ninety- 
 
 nine cases in a hundred, old and young, stale and fresh, 
 are mixed together, to gratify the rapacity of the sales-. 
 
 man; a practice which, if purchasers would resist by 
 steadily refusing their custom to those who hadlonte So 
 deceived them, would soon be discontinued. 
 
 With regard to peas in the shell, two kinds are to be 
 
 found in the market; these ought, to vary considerably. 
 
 in the price, though, to the inexperienced, one is often 
 
 sold for the other. The best peas are brought to town. 
 
 in wicker baskets, through which the air can circulate, 
 and these reach London without deterioration of their 
 quality, provided they are not kept too long. The other 
 peas are conveyed in sacks, which is a great economy of 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 297 
 
 space in carriage; but the air being excluded from these 
 sacks, the peas soon become heated, and ferment; their 
 saccharine quality is lost, and they are rendered un- 
 wholesome. Practice alone can teach the housekeeper 
 to distinguish the difference between the peas so con- 
 veyed, and those brought to town in open baskets; but 
 the practice should be pursued and the skill acquired. 
 We may also observe with regard to this vegetable, that 
 the sooner it is eaten after it leaves the garden the better 
 it is: and this is the reason why green peas are so much 
 superior in the country, where they are gathered just 
 when wanted for the day’s meal. 
 
 We now come to brocoli sprouts, which may be cooked 
 in the Italian way. Having boiled them in salt and 
 water, let them cool. When cold, dredge them with 
 flour, fry them brown in butter, and sprinkle a little salt 
 over them. This wholesome and pleasant dish is to be 
 met with at the first tables on the continent, and is 
 much superior to the very primitive mode in which bro- 
 coli is usually presented at ours. 
 
 There is a delicious vegetable very little used among us, 
 though to be found at all our markets in the metropolis, we 
 mean the salsifis or skinet, sometimes called goat’s beard. 
 It is of two kinds, the black and the white; the former is 
 the best, being better flavoured and more tender. It is 
 easily dressed. Scrape off the outer peel of the skinets, 
 then throw them into cold water with a little vinegar in it, 
 which prevents them from changing colour. They must 
 be boiled in plenty of water with a small quantity of 
 salt, the juice of a lemon, and a lump of butter about 
 the size of a nutmeg. When done, which may be ascer- 
 tained by trying them with a fork, they may be served 
 up with white sauce, into which they must be put about 
 five or six minutes before it is taken off the fire, and the 
 thickening of egg added to it. They may also be found 
 grateful to an English palate with plain melted butter ;. 
 they are likewise very nice fried in a thin batter, and 
 may be served up with fried parsley over them. On 
 
298 VEGETABLES, 
 
 being put into the dish, and before the parsley is added, 
 they should be sprinkled with a little salt. This vege- 
 table also, when boiled, makes an excellent salad with 
 oil, vinegar, mustard, and a little cream. To it may be 
 added some chopped parsley, a chopped anchovy, and a 
 few capers. 
 
 To Dress Carpoons.—There is a vegetable much 
 eaten in France (says the editor of the Magazine of 
 Domestic Economy, vol. i., pp. 808, 3845), because it is 
 of delightful flavour; and as digestible as it is pleasant— 
 we mean the cardoon, or thistle-head. In England it 
 is never used except by French cooks, probably because 
 this vegetable requires more skill to cook it than any 
 other. It is, however, worthy of being introduced at 
 the tables of our middle classes, as it is cheap and nu- 
 tritive. 
 
 We think that, having noticed the cardoon, we are 
 bound, before we go any further, to state how it may 
 be prepared without much trouble and expense. 
 
 The whiter the cardoon heads, the more delicate they 
 are. Remove and throw away all the stalks that are 
 tough and fibrous, or hollow ; cut the others into strips 
 about five or six inches long, cleansing them well from 
 the prickles. Then put them into boiling water, and par- 
 boil them, giving less time to the heart than to the outer 
 stalks. As soon as the slime will come off by dipping a 
 strip of it into cold water and rubbing it with the 
 finger, it is done enough. On removing the cardoons 
 from the fire, throw them into cold water, and cleanse 
 them immediately from the skin, using to do so nothing 
 but friction with the fingers. Stew them afterwards in 
 a little rich gravy, and just before they are taken off the 
 fire, add a lump of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 This is a cheap way of dressing cardoons, which may 
 likewise be tossed up with cream, or even sent to table 
 with plain melted butter. 
 
 We are indebted to the same authority for the fol- 
 lowing receipt for dressing spinach. 
 
 
 
 
 
 & 
 2 
 7 
 
VEGETABLES. 299 
 
 SPINACH is a vegetable which we cannot too strongly 
 recommend. It must be prepared as follows :—After 
 being carefully picked and washed four or five times in an 
 abundance of water, let it be put into boiling water con- 
 taining some salt, in a large vessel where it may have 
 plenty of room. The leaves that rise above the water 
 must be pressed down. When the spinach is about half 
 done, take it off the fire, strain it and prepare some 
 more boiling water and salt, in which it must be again 
 boiled till sufficiently done. The moment it is so, throw 
 it into a colander, and keep pouring cold water over it 
 for some time ; then make it into balls, and with your 
 hands press out every drop of water it contains ; after- 
 wards chop it very fine until it becomes almost a paste. 
 Now put a lump of butter into the stew-pan, and place 
 the spinach on the butter; let it dry gently over the 
 fire; when the moisture is evaporated, dredge it with a 
 little flour, then add a small quantity of good gravy, 
 with seasoning to your taste ; let it boil up, and serve 
 it up with sippets fried in butter. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY OF DRESSING SprinacH (from the 
 same source).—The Parisians are very fond of spinach 
 with sugar, which is a great delicacy, and may be pre- 
 pared in the following manner. Boil some good cream 
 just before you put the spinach in the stew-pan with the 
 butter. When you have added the flour to the spinach, 
 as before directed, together with a little salt, put in the 
 cream with some sugar and nutmeg, let it simmer for 
 ten minutes, then serve it up on sippets, with a very 
 small quantity of pounded lump sugar strewed over it. 
 
 To press Enpive.—Nothing can be more grateful 
 to the palate, when nicely prepared, than a dish of 
 endive. 
 
 The endive, after being well washed and picked, must 
 be parboiled in four different waters, to destroy the bit- 
 terness peculiar to it. It must then be boiled in 
 salt and water until done, when it must be thrown into 
 cold water, squeezed and chopped fine. It may then be 
 
300 VEGETABLES. 
 
 put into a stew-pan upon a lump of butter; and a few 
 young onions chopped very small added to it. Let it 
 dry, then dredge it ,with half a table-spoonful of flour, 
 and add some good gravy, some seasoning, and two 
 lumps of sugar ; let it stew very gently for a quarter of 
 an hour, then serve it up, either alone on sippets, or 
 under sweetbreads, fricandeau, or mutton chops. 
 
 A MODE OF DRESSING CAULIFLOWERS WITH PAR- 
 MESAN Curese.—Having boiled the cauliflowers, pre- 
 pare a sauce in the following manner. Into a quarter 
 of a pound of butter, rub a table-spoonful of flour. Then 
 put it into a stew-pan; as the butter melts, add by de- 
 grees half a pint of water, or a little more if you require 
 more sauce. Stir the whole until it boils; after it has 
 boiled a couple of minutes, take it from the fire, and 
 when entirely off the boil, add the yolk of an egg beat 
 up with a little lemon-juice and half a table-spoonful of 
 soft water. Shake the stew-pan till the whole is mixed 
 and the sauce set. 2 
 
 Now powder the cauliflowers with rasped Parmesan 
 cheese, Then pour the sauce over them; when the 
 sauce is firmly set upon them, cover the surface with 
 rasped cheese and bread-crumbs, and brown it with a 
 salamander. 
 
 To PREPARE ONIONS FoR SEASONING.—Peel and 
 mince three or four onions ; put them into a sauce-pan 
 with a little cold water. Let them boil till quite tender, 
 and then pulp them with the liquor, through a hair 
 sieve, when it may be mixed with any made dishes or 
 sauces. 
 
 To PresrrveE CucumMBrers.—Take the greenest cu- 
 cumbers, and most free from seeds, of all sizes; put them 
 into strong salt and water, ina jar, with a cabbage- 
 leaf over them, to keep them down ; put them in a warm 
 place till they are yellow ; then wash them, and set them 
 over the fire in fresh water, with a little salt and another 
 leaf; cover the pan close, but take care they do not boil; 
 if they are not a fine green, change the water, when, if 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 801 
 
 they are, take them off the fire, and let them stand till 
 cold; cut the large ones into quarters; take out the 
 seeds and soft parts; put them into water for two days, 
 changing it twice every day, to take out the salt. For 
 the syrup, take a pound of sugar, and half a pint of 
 water ; put it on the fire, and, when clear, put in the 
 rind of a lemon, and one ounce of ginger, with the out- 
 sides snapped off ; when the syrup is pretty thick, take 
 it off ; when cold, wipe the cucumbers, and put them in. 
 Boil the syrup once in three or four days, for three 
 weeks ; keep them in a dry place. 
 
 VEGETABLE Marrow.—After being washed clean, 
 put it into boiling water, with a little salt, and, when 
 tender, drain it from the water ; cut into half, length- 
 ways, and serve on toasted bread, over which some 
 melted butter has been poured ; or you may boil in milk 
 and water. They may be fricasseed, as Jerusalem arti- 
 chokes, or stewed, as cucumbers. 7 
 
 To Dress Beet Roort.—Boil your beet, and slice 
 it ; put into a stew-pan, with some butter, parsley, 
 minced onions, a little garlic, flour, vinegar, salt, and 
 pepper, to taste; boil the whole for one quarter of an 
 hour. 
 
 MusHrooms, with A Waite Sauce.—Pick them 
 well, and wash them; cut them into pieces; put them 
 in a stew-pan, with half a glass of oil and a faggot ; 
 toss them up; then strew them with a dust of flour, and 
 moisten them with broth, and a little white wine, and 
 put in a small clove of garlic; let them be relishing; 
 skim off the fat, and thicken them with three yolks of 
 eggs, mixed with the juice of a lemon, a little parsley 
 cut small, and a little nutmeg; put them upon a crust 
 of bread in your dish, and serve them up hot. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS WITH GRAVY ; FOR ENTREMETS.— 
 Pick clean your cauliflowers, and let them be washed in 
 water; thatis to say, you take a kettle, which you half 
 fill with water, a dust of flour, a bit of butter, two or 
 three slices of bacon, and afterwards some salt. . When 
 
302 VEGETABLES. 
 
 your water boils, put in your cauliflowers; let them be 
 boiled something more than half; then take them out 
 of that water, and let them be well drained; then place 
 them in a stew-pan, and put in it a thi cullis made of 
 veal, and a sufficient quantity of cullis of ham, so that 
 it may soak well. Afterwards, you put them over again, 
 
 with a slow fire, and let them stew very gently ; and 
 
 when you are ready to serve up, take.a lump of good 
 butter, the size of one or two walnuts, rolled in flour, 
 which you divide into four or five pieces in your stew- 
 pan, which you keep continually stirring on the fire; 
 see and taste whether it be of a good relish ; and you 
 add to them a slight dash of vinegar, and serve them up 
 hot. 
 
 ANOTHER WAY OF DRESSING MUSHROOMS WITH 
 aAwuite Sauce.—Take mushrooms, pick and wash 
 them well, then put them into a stew-pan, with a lump 
 of butter, and a bunch of fine herbs, toss them up ; this 
 done, stew them with a dust of flour, moisten them with 
 broth, and season them with salt and pepper. Let 
 them simmer, and thicken them with four yolks of eggs, 
 mixed cream, and a little nutmeg. Your ragotit of 
 mushrooms being of a good taste, dish it up, putting in 
 the bottom of your dish a crust of bread, serve it up 
 hot. 
 
 Musurooms Bor.tep.—Trim, pepper, and salt them, 
 and put them sauées, with a little butter over them ; put 
 them in the oven, and then on the gridiron, for a few 
 minutes, put the liquor that comes from the mushrooms 
 on the dish, when sent to table. 
 
 To prEss TRUFFLES.—Get some truffles, either 
 large or small, pare and wash them, cut them in slices, 
 put them in a stew-pan, or in a silver dish, with some 
 oil, or a slice of fresh butter, more or less, according to 
 the quantity of your truffles. Let them be a little while 
 upon the stove, with a bunch of parsley, chibbols, and 
 sweet herbs ; moisten them with half a glass of Cham- 
 pagne or other white wine, season them with salt and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES, 303 
 
 pounded pepper, add a little essence of ham, and let 
 them stew slowly. Skim well off the fat ; when they 
 are ready to serve in about ten minutes; squeeze over 
 them the juice of a Seville orange or a lemon, put to 
 them some small fried crusts of bread, then dish them up 
 hot. 
 
 TrurFiEs, (the Provencal way).—Cut and order 
 some truffles as before, then put them in a dish with 
 some good oil, season them with salt, pepper, and shred 
 chibbol, and a little sweet basil. Let them stew slowly 
 over a chafing-dish. Squeeze in the juice of one or two 
 oranges, more or less, according to the quantity of your 
 truffles. Let your truffles be palatable, and having put 
 in some fried crusts of bread, as before, serve them up 
 hot. 
 
 To press MusHrooms.— Take small mushrooms very 
 white, cut off the stalks, wash them well, put them into 
 a stew-pan, with the juice of two lemons, a little beaten 
 pepper, halfa glass of white wine, as much of good oil, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs ; put all this over the fire, 
 and after two or three boilings, take it off, let it cool, 
 serve it up. ‘These sorts of mushrooms may be kept as 
 long as you please, provided they swim in oil. 
 
 TrurFLes AU Court Bovurtton.—Clean your truffles 
 well, boil them about half an hour in a kettle, with as 
 much wine as water ; season them with salt and pepper. 
 Being done, put a folded napkin in your dish, then take 
 your truffles out of the kettle, and lay them upon the 
 napkin ; serve them up hot. 
 
 On another occasion you may boil them in seasoned 
 water only. 
 
 To Bor ArTICHOKES.— Wash well your artichokes ; 
 cut off the stalks quite close, taking off the outside 
 leaves ; have plenty of water boiling very fast, throw in 
 the artichokes, to improve the colour of which, a small 
 portion of soda may be put into the water. When done, 
 it is a good fashion to lift the tops from them, take out 
 the chokes, and then replace the tops before sending 
 
304 VEGETABLES. 
 
 them to table. Serve with good melted butter. The 
 stalks should be uppermost when boiling. 
 
 ARTICHOKES WITH BuTTER.— When your artichokes 
 are boiled, as above, take off the choke, and make a 
 sauce with fresh butter, vinegar, salt, and nutmeg ; add 
 
 a little flour to thicken the sauce: or you may prepare 
 
 them in a more elaborate way, as follows :— 
 ARTICHOKES WITH BurrEer Sauce.—Turn eight or 
 ten artichoke bottoms ; pull off all the leaves, leaving 
 the chokes only ; rub them with lemon, and throw into 
 salt and water. Boil them in water with butter and 
 lemon juice until you can easily remove the chokes ; 
 throw them into cold water, with a little lemon juice in 
 it; take out the chokes; trim the edges, and notch them 
 round; warm them up in lemon juice, water, and butter; 
 drain them on a cloth, dish them, and mask with butter 
 sauce. 
 Pras AND Roots, Marare.—Clear and blanch two 
 bunches of carrots, the same of onions and turnips, a 
 bunch of leeks, and six roots of celery; strain and put 
 them in a stock-pot with three quarts of dried peas 
 whole, nearly ten quarts of water, salt, pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, two cloves, and a little fresh butter; boil it two 
 hours and a half; skim off the butter, remove it from 
 the fire, let it settle, and strain it through a silk sieve. 
 Use it to moisten soups and sauces. 
 ArTicHoKES.— Take the middling sort of artichokes, 
 pare and boil them till you can easily take off the 
 chokes; cut small parsley, a few green onions and 
 mushrooms, put them in a stew-pan over the fire, with 
 half a glass of good oil, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs. 
 Put in a baking-pan some slices of bacon, place over 
 these your artichokes ; put into every artichoke mush- 
 rooms and green onions; cover these with slices of bacon, 
 and put them into the oven; being done, take them out 
 to drain ; squeeze in a little lemon juice, and mask the 
 bottoms of the artichokes with it. Dish them up with 
 essence of ham. | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 | 
 BS 
 a 
 4 
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 B 
 
 eeere 
 
 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 305 
 
 ARTICHOKES IN Surprisr.— Take the bottoms of 
 small artichokes, blanch them to take off the choke, 
 then put the bottoms into a white braise ; make a small 
 salpicon, as follows :— take sweetbreads of veal blanched, 
 and cut into small square pieces, the size of a small pea, 
 mushrooms, truffles, and cocks’ combs cut the same ; 
 put all together in a stew-pan, with a little cullis; let it 
 stew softly: being done, and of good taste, take your 
 bottoms out of their braise, and fill one of them with 
 your salpicon, put upon this another bottom, and so go 
 on; soak them in beaten egg's, strew them with crumbs 
 of bread, and let them be fried in hog’s lard; being fried, 
 dish them up, garnish your dish with fried parsley, and 
 serve them up hot. 
 
 ARTICHOKES WITH A WHITE Saucre.—Boil some 
 small artichokes in water with salt, when boiled, put 
 the bottoms in a stew-pan with butter and parsley, sea- 
 soned with salt and pepper: thicken your sauce with 
 yolks of e@gs, a drop of vinegar, and a little broth. 
 
 Friep ArricHoxKEs.——Cut your artichokes into pieces, 
 take off the chokes, let them boil a little; take them 
 out and put them a soaking with vinegar, pepper, and 
 salt ; then dip them in a beaten egg, flour them, and 
 let them be fried in hog’s lard, or drawn butter, and 
 serve them up with fried parsley. You may also fry 
 them rolled in flour without eggs or being blanched. 
 
 ARTICHOKES witH O1r.— Take artichokes, make all 
 bottoms of them, let them boil in water till you can 
 easily take off the choke; then take them out, take off 
 the choke, put them into a small kettle with a lump of 
 butter, slices of bacon and of lemons, and moisten them 
 with water, putting in a little salt. Continue to stew 
 them very gently; being done, and very white, take 
 them out, and dish them up; season them with salt, 
 beaten pepper, oil and vinegar, and serve them up cold. 
 
 These sorts of artichokes in bottoms may also be 
 _used or served up, with a ham sauce, with slices of ham 
 over them. 
 
 Another time they may be served up with a white 
 
 Ye 
 
306 VEGETABLES. 
 
 sauce or gravy sauce, also with Parmesan, dishing them 
 up with a little cullis over them, and some seraped Par- 
 mesan, and make them get a colour in the oven; and in 
 serving then up, put in a lemon juice, and serve them 
 up hot. 
 
 Asraraaus witn Green Peas.—Take the smaller 
 sort of asparagus, and cut them like green peas, as small 
 as you can, and cut nothing but what is tender. If 
 your asparagus are large, you split them in four. 
 Being thus cut, blanch them ; being blanched, put them 
 in a stew-pan witha Jump of butter ; 3 give them some 
 tosses upon the fire, then flour them a little, and season 
 them with salt and pepper; moisten them with a little 
 broth ; let them have a good taste, and thicken them 
 with yolks of eggs and a little nutmeg. Put a crust of 
 bread into a dish and your asparagus over it, and serve 
 them hot for entremets. 
 
 You may likewise serve them with a brown sauce, 
 moistening them with cullis and gravy. 
 
 ENTREMETS OF Beans.-—Take fine beans). and take 
 the top skin off; then put them in a stew-pan with a 
 lump of butter; take two or three artichokes, take off 
 part of the leaves, cut your artichokes into five or six 
 pieces, and blanch them till you can take off the choke ; 
 the choke being taken off, put them in your beans, 
 moisten them with gravy and cullis, and half a glass of 
 Champagne, Chablis, Vin de Grave, or Bucellas; put 
 them over a great fire, and skim well off the fat ; put to 
 them a crumb of garlic, a lemon juice, and a spoonful of 
 oil, let them have a good taste. Dish them up, and serve 
 them up hot for entremets. 
 
 A Racout or CeLtery.—Take some heads of celery, 
 pick and blanch them. Being blanched, squeeze them 
 out of the water, put them in a stew-pan with a cullis, 
 to be stewed on a slow fire. After which, thicken them 
 with the size of a nut of fresh butter, dipped i in fine flour, 
 continually stirring the stew-pan ; add a little sinege 
 taking care not to make it too thick. 
 
 A Turnip Stew (West Country dish).—This is an 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 307 
 
 Irish stew made somewhat drier, turnips being sliced in: 
 we can vouch for the excellence of this dish. 
 
 CABBAGE AND Rice (West Country dish).—Cut up 
 a large white cabbage, as if for pickling, place a layer 
 of rice and a layer of cabbage, according to the quantity 
 wanted. Suppose half a pound of rice. Add about 
 half a pint of water and a little mace, a bit of butter 
 about the size of an egg with pepper and salt, then let 
 it simmer until done. This is an excellent vegetable 
 dish. 
 
 To stew CeLery.—Take off the outside and coarser 
 leaves, and the green ends of your heads of celery, boil 
 them in water till they are very tender, put in a little 
 salt, a slice of lemon, a little beaten mace, thicken it 
 with a good lump of butter and flour, boil it a little, 
 beat the yolks of two eggs, grate in half a nutmeg, mix 
 them with a tea-cupful of good cream, put it to your 
 gravy, shake it over the fire till it be of a good thick- 
 ness, but do not let it boil; serve it up hot ; or you may 
 stew it in common broth or stock, and serve it with an 
 espagnole or brown gravy. 
 
 TomatTas FARcIED.—After having taken out the 
 kernels of your tomatas, fill them with sausage meat sea- 
 soned with garlic, parsley, scallions, and tarrogan. Then 
 do them in a baking pan under a country oven, with 
 raspings of bread. Serve this entremet in the baking- 
 dish, and squeeze over it a little lemon-juice. 
 
 Pommes DE Terre a la Maitre d Hoétel.— Wash 
 the potatoes clean, and boil with their skins on with salt 
 and water When enough, let them cool on a drainer, 
 peel and cut them in smal] rounds with a cutter as thick 
 as or more than a penny piece, for if too thin they 
 would break in the sauce. Put into a stew-pan, butter, 
 minced parsley, scallions, pepper and salt, and juice of 
 lemon. Add the potatoes, and put on the fire for a few 
 minutes. Mind that the sauce is neither curdled or 
 too thick, and that it is well mixed before you put the 
 potatoes to it (a cup of boiling water may be added by 
 
 x 2 
 
308 VEGETABLES. 
 
 degrees while on the fire. A little egg may be added, 
 if you require it for thickening. Potatoes, as above, may 
 be served with a cream sauce. 
 
 Potato Batis.—Mix mashed potatoes with the 
 yolk of an egg, roll them into balls, and rub them in 
 egg and bread crumbs. Season them well with salt and 
 a little white pepper, put an ounce of butter to the 
 pound, and a few spoonfuls of good cream, and fry them 
 in nice dripping. . 
 
 CucumBeErs.—Sliced to be wholesome should be 
 placed for some time in salt, and then washed, which 
 makes them tender, and abstracts their unwholesome 
 juice. then add pepper, vinegar, and oil to taste. 
 
 Friep Sausiris.—Make a batter as follows. Take 
 six spoonfuls of flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of 
 olive oil, and beat the whole with beer, enough to make 
 into a batter, but do not make it too liquid. Then beat 
 the whites of two eggs well, pour them into the batter, 
 which keep stirring gently. Next put the vegetables 
 that are done beforehand and well drained in a cloth 
 into the batter, take them out one by one, and throw 
 them into the dripping: use a skewer to prevent their 
 sticking together. | When fried of a fine colour and 
 crisp, send them up with fried parsley in the centre of 
 the dish, and a little salt sprinkled over the vegetables. 
 
 To PRESERVE ASPARAGUS DURING THE WINTER.— 
 Cut off the lower parts of the asparagus, and set them 
 to boil in an earthern vessel or a well-tinned sauce-pan; 
 as soon as the water boils, put in the asparagus heads, 
 having first carefully washed them; then take off the pot 
 from the fire and cover it over with a napkin several 
 times doubled, and let it stand for an hour; then put the 
 asparagus to drain in a sieve, wrap them up in a fresh 
 cloth, and put them where they are not exposed to the 
 sun, in order that they may become cold and dry; mean- 
 time boil some salt in soft water, and when the solution 
 is cold, put the asparagus into jars; pour the salt and 
 water over them, and cover them closely down; for this 
 
 
 
 ate — — 
 — a — = 
 
 
 
VEGETABLES. 3809 
 
 purpose, jars furnished with covers are the best: to pre- 
 vent any air getting in, pour melted mutton fat over 
 the tops of the jars. 
 
 To Dress ArticHoKEs, au naturel.—The arti- 
 chokes should be washed in several waters, to remove the 
 insects about the leaves ; trim and cut the stalks even; 
 boil them in salt and water. If young, half an hour will 
 suffice. Serve with finest melted butter. ° 
 
 To Dress ArticHoxses (Another method).—Wash, 
 and boil as above. Cut the points of the leaves, and 
 trim the bottoms ; rub them with the juice of a lemon, 
 to prevent their turning black ; when they are boiled, 
 empty the middle, and serve them very hot, with plain 
 melted butter. 
 
 Waite Beans a la Maitre d Hotel. White beans, 
 when fresh, must be put into boiling water, with a piece 
 of butter as large as a walnut; but if dry, they must be 
 soaked for an hour in cold water before you boil them. 
 Then boil them in cold water, and replenish it with cold 
 water two or three times before it comes to a boil also, 
 which makes the rind tender. They should be well 
 done before you dress them a@ la Maitre d Hotel, which 
 is done as follows :—Trim a sauce-pan with a quarter of 
 a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley chopped very 
 fine, some green onions, and some pepper and salt, over 
 which lay the beans ; keep moving the stew-pan, with- 
 out using a spoon, lest you break the beans; then 
 squeeze the juice of half a lemon, and send up quite hot. 
 This is an excellent vegetable witha leg of roast mutton. 
 You may then add a little glaze. 
 
 To PresERVE GreEN Peas.—The peas should be 
 fresh shelled ; put them into glass bottles, which should 
 be carefully washed. Put the bottles into a kettle or 
 boiler, with a little hay between them, to prevent their 
 coming in contact; fill up the kettle with cold water, 
 and heat it; when the water begins to boil, take off the 
 kettle directly ; leave the bottles in the water until it is 
 quite cold, for fear they should break by taking them 
 out whilst the water is hot; stop down the bottles, and 
 
310 VEGETABLES. 
 
 keep them in a dry and cold place, not exposed to the 
 influence of the sun. —From the Magazine of Domestic 
 Economy. 
 
 How To cHoosE, AND HOW TO Bort PoTATOES.— 
 “To boil a potato, seems simple enough,” says the 
 sensible author who writes on cookery in the Magazine 
 of Domestic Economy ; “ and yet we scarcely ever find 
 it well done. At the tables of the great a good potato 
 is never seen, because, if not eaten the very moment it is 
 boiled, the potato is worth nothing, and also because 
 the refinement of peeling helps to destroy the savour. 
 Another mistake is, to serve this vegetable in a covered 
 dish, whereby the steam, condensed by the cover, falls 
 upon the potato, and it becomes soddened. 
 
 “Do not buy washed potatoes from the shops, or at 
 Covent Garden. Get them with the mould about them, 
 and do not wash it off till just before you use them. If 
 they are steeped in water long before they are boiled, 
 they become stale and watery.” We would further add 
 pare them as little as possible. | 
 
 “Put them into plenty of cold water, with some salt. 
 When they are about half boiled, throw away the water, 
 and pour fresh boiling water upon them from a tea-kettle, 
 adding some salt. Let it boil up briskly. When you 
 have ascertained with a fork that the potatoes are very 
 nearly done, throw in a cupful of cold water to check 
 the boiling. The water will soon boil up again and the 
 potatoes will crack. Let the water be then drained off, 
 and the potatoes served up immediately in an open dish 
 with their skins on. The water upon them will eva- 
 porate the instant they are in the dish. They must be 
 eaten at that moment; in ten minutes their fine flavour 
 would be gone.” 
 
 How To CuooseE AND Bow, New Porators.—“ Choose 
 the potatoes as nearly of a size as possible; wash them, 
 and rub off the outer rind; then wipe them dry with a 
 clean napkin. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter 
 into a stew-pan, set it on the fire, and when it boils throw 
 im the potatoes. Let them boil in the butter till they 
 are done, taking care to toss them every now and then 
 
 
 
 2a ps lag " - es an 
 
VEGETABLES. Oued 
 
 so that they may all go successively into the boiling 
 butter. They must be carefully watched, because if 
 done too much they shrivel up and become waxy. When 
 the fork indicates that they are done, they must be taken 
 out before they lose their crispness, put into a dish, and 
 some salt sprinkled over them. As soon as they are 
 taken from the boiling butter, a handful of parsley may 
 be thrown into it, and, after it has had a boil or two, 
 laid upon the potatoes as a garnish. They must be 
 eaten immediately. This is a beautiful dish to serve up 
 with fish, as it may beeaten alone. The butter in which 
 the potatoes were dressed may be poured into a jar, and 
 serve again for the same purpose. Old potatoes may be 
 cut into round pieces about the size of a large walnut, 
 and dressed in the same way.” We may also add that 
 young carrots may be done in a similar way. 
 
 LAVER is chiefly brought from the West of England 
 to London. Put your laver into a silver dish over a 
 lamp, with a little fresh butter and juice of a Seville 
 orange well stirred in it till quite hot.. Vinegar may be 
 used with it—and eaten with roast meat. 
 
 Laver (Another way).—It is generally baked or 
 boiled as it is taken out of the sea, and sent to market 
 in that state. The best way to dress it is with a little 
 mace, pepper, or cayenne, with lemon or orange-juice, 
 or vinegar; serve it very hot, it should either be served 
 over a lamp, or sent to table hot when the joints are cut 
 up. Itis eaten with roast, broiled, hot, or cold meats. 
 
 Those who can have it fresh from the sea will find the 
 advantage of cooking it as follows. 
 
 Let it be well pickled, washed in sea-water, drained, 
 put into the oven with a little porter and pepper, or 
 butter and pepper, and leave it tilltender. To pack for 
 family use, let it be in small pots, press it well down, 
 and cover with suet, upon which put a little crystal acid; 
 laver so cooked and preserved is an elegant addition to 
 broiled and roast meats, and many prefer it cold. In 
 _ that state it is called sea-marmalade; an excellent sea- 
 store as well as antiscorbutic. 
 
312 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 Liqurur D’ ANISETTE.—To a quart of spirits of wine 
 add twenty drops of the essential oil of aniseed, after 
 shaking it well, mix with it a quart of the syrup—then 
 filter and put it into bottles. 
 
 Norrotk Puncu.—In twenty quarts of French 
 brandy put the peels of thirty lemons and thirty oranges, 
 pared so thin that not the least of the white is left. In- 
 fuse twelve hours. Have ready thirty quarts of cold 
 water that has boiled; put to it fifteen pounds of double- 
 refined sugar; and when well mixed, pour it upon the 
 brandy and peels, adding the juice of the oranges and of 
 twenty-four lemons; mix well: then strain through a 
 very fine hair-sieve, ito a very clean barrel that has 
 held spirits, and put two quarts of new milk. Stir, and 
 then bung it close; let it stand six weeks in a warm 
 eellar; bottle the liquor for use, observing great care 
 that the bottles are perfectly clean and dry, and the corks — 
 of the best quality, and well put m. This liquor will 
 keep many years, and improves by age. 
 
 Norrotk Puncu (Another way).—Pare six lemons 
 and three Seville oranges very thin, squeeze the juice 
 mto a large tea-pot, put tot two quarts of brandy, one 
 of white-wine, and one of milk, and one pound and a 
 quarter of sugar. Let it be mixed, and then covered 
 for twenty-four hours, strain through a jelly-bag till 
 clear, then bottle it. 
 
 VENDOR, oR Mitx Puncu.—Pare six oranges and six 
 lemons as thin as you can, grate them after with sugar, 
 to get the flavour. Steep the peels in a bottle of rum 
 or brandy stopped close twenty-four hours. Squeeze 
 the fruit on two pounds of sugar, add to it four quarts of 
 water, and one of new milk boiling hot; stir the rum: 
 
 
 
LIQUEURS. 313 
 
 into the above, and run it through a jelly-bag till per- 
 fectly clear. Bottle, and cork close immediately. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT METHOD OF MAKING PuNcH.—Take 
 two large fresh lemons with rough skins, quite ripe, and 
 some large lumps of double-refined sugar. Rub the 
 sugar over the lemons till it has absorbed all the yellow 
 part of the skins. Then put into the bowl these lumps, 
 and as much more as. the juice of the lemons may be 
 supposed to require ; for no certain weight can be men- 
 tioned, as the acidity of a lemon cannot be known till — 
 tried, and therefore this must be determined by the taste. 
 Then squeeze the lemon-juice upon the sugar; and with 
 a bruiser press the sugar and the juice particularly well 
 together, for a great deal of the richness and fine flavour 
 of the punch depends on this rubbing and mixing process 
 being thoroughly performed. Then mix this up very 
 well with boiling water (soft water is best) till the whole 
 is rather cool. When this mixture (which is now called 
 the sherbet) is to your taste, take brandy and rum in 
 equal quantities, and put them to it, mixing the whole 
 well together again. The quantity of liquor must be 
 according to your taste: two good lemons are generally 
 enough to make four quarts of punch, including a quart 
 of liquor, with half a pound of sugar ; but this depends 
 much on taste, and on the strength of the spirit. 
 
 As the pulp is disagreeable to some persons, the 
 sherbet may be strained before the liquor is put in. 
 Some strain the lemon before they put it to the sugar, 
 which is improper ; as when the pulp and sugar are well 
 mixed together, it adds much to the richness of the 
 punch. 
 
 When only rum is used, about half a pint of porter 
 will soften the punch; and even when both rum and 
 brandy are used, the porter gives arichness, and to some 
 a very pleasant flavour. 
 
 RaspBerry Branpy.—Pick fine dry fruit, put into 
 a stone jar, and the jar into a kettle of water, or on a 
 hot hearth, till the juice will run; strain, and to every 
 pint. add half a pound of sugar, give one boil, and skim 
 
314 LIQUEURS. 
 
 it; when cold put equal quantities of juice and brandy, 
 shake well, and bottle. Some people prefer it stronger 
 of the brandy. 
 
 WuitE Currant Survus.—Strip the fruit, and pre- 
 pare ina jar as for jelly ; strain the juice, of which put 
 two quarts to one gallon of rum, and two pounds of 
 lump-sugar; strain through a jelly-bag. 
 
 CREME DE VANILLE.— Into a quart of spirits of wine, 
 put twelve drops of the tincture of Vanille, to be had at 
 the best chemists. Shake it well, then add a quart of 
 syrup ; when well mixed, let it stand ten minutes, then 
 filter it twice or thrice, if necessary, through the filter- 
 ing paper; if bright and clear after coming through 
 the paper the first time, it need not be filtered again. 
 
 Caré A L’Eau.—To make coffee, employ the German 
 filter, always have the best; one cup of dry coffee, (or 
 one ounce), will make two good cups (breakfast), of 
 liquid. Pour some boiling water into the biggin on the 
 coffee, wetting it equally, so that it may be properly 
 infused, which you will perceive when it begins to bubble. 
 Then stop pouring for a minute, and place the biggin in 
 a vessel containing boiling water, which will keep the 
 coffee hot, or by the side of the fire. It should be drank 
 pure. Cream may be used, or boiling milk. Never buy 
 roasted coffee, get a coffee roaster, and roast it at home ; 
 buy a half, or a whole pound. Put into a tin canister, 
 air tight, as nothing deteriorates coffee so much as expo- 
 sure to the air after it has been roasted. 
 
 Caré au Larr.—Put a quarter of a pound of coffee 
 (Mocha is the best) into a biggin, and pour upon it 
 three-quarters of a pint of boiling water. The coffee for 
 this preparation must be strong to excess. To half a 
 pint of boiling milk, add one quarter of the coffee just 
 made, or less if it be not liked so strong, and sweeten 
 it with lump sugar. It is quite a mistake to suppose 
 that moist sugar is better than loaf. 
 
 Puncy A LA Romarne.— Make a good lemon ice, as 
 for adessert. To one quart of ice, put the whites of 
 three eggs well beaten, with rum and brandy, till the 
 
 
 
 | 
 
 
 
LIQUEURS. 315 
 
 ice liquifies. The proportions, three parts rum to one 
 of brandy; the strength according to taste. To this 
 put acup of strong green tea, and a little Champagne. 
 
 Lair Sucré.—Boil fine sugar in milk, and flavour 
 with lemon. ‘This is a nice beverage for children’s 
 balls. 
 
 Eau Sucré.—Sugar in boiling water ; drank cold. 
 
 Mint JuLer.—Put into a tumbler about a dozen 
 sprigs of the tender shoots of mint, put a spoonful of 
 white sugar on them, and equal portions of peach and 
 common brandy, so as to fill 1t up one-third, or perhaps 
 a little less; then take rasped or powdered ice, and fill 
 up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips of the tumbler 
 with a piece of fresh pine-apple, and the tumbler itself 
 is often incrusted outside with ice. 
 
 To Make PuncH TO KEEP IN BoTTLES.—One bottle 
 of rum ; three bottles of water; the juice of six fine 
 lemons, or of seven moderate ones; one pound and a 
 quarter of sugar; the water to boil ; after squeezing the 
 lemons, be careful to take out the white pips before the 
 water is used, or they will make the punch bitter. If 
 you like the punch sweet, use a quarter of a pound more 
 sugar. Take care that the sugar is dissolved. 
 
 Tea Puncu.-—Dissolve, in two pints of hot green 
 tea, three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, having pre- 
 viously rubbed off, with a portion of the sugar, the peel 
 of four lemons; then add the juice of eight lemons, and 
 a pint of arrack. 
 
 Tea Puncu (Another Fashion).—Make tea more or 
 less strong, more or less light, strain it, sugar it while 
 hot and squeeze into it the juice of two, four, or half a 
 dozen lemons, according to the quantity of the punch 
 you desire to make ; when the whole is made boiling hot 
 pour into it a dose more or less strong of rum or any 
 other pleasant spirit, or wine ; following also the taste 
 or inclination of those who desire to take it boiling or 
 moderately hot. 
 
 To maxe Mitx Puncu (Twelve bottles), — Three 
 bottles of old rum; two bottles of brandy; eighteen 
 
316 LIQUEURS. 
 
 lemons finely peeled, and a pint of juice ; one pint of 
 strong green tea; half a pint of Maraschino; three 
 pounds of fine lump sugar: the rind of the lemons to — 
 be steeped for one night in the rum, and five quarts of 
 water. When you have mixed the whole ingredients 
 together, add two quarts of boiling milk; let it stand 
 till quite cold, and then pass it through a tammy bag. — 
 
 Puncnw A LA Romaine (Another recetpt).—Three 
 parts of a pint of rum ; three parts of a pint of brandy ; 
 one pint of good lemon ice ; one large cup of green tea; 
 one tumbler full of Champagne ; and the beaten white 
 of two eggs. | 
 
 Mitx Puncu (Another way).—One quart of pale 
 brandy, one quart of water, nine good lemons, half a pound 
 of loaf sugar, and a pint and a half of new milk; mix 
 them all well together; then strain it through a flannel 
 bag. 
 
 REcEIPT For Puncu ( Cold).—Pour half a pint of gin 
 on the outer peel of a lemon ; then add a little lemon 
 juice, sugar, a glass of Maraschino, a pint and a half of | 
 water, and two bottles of iced water. 
 
 Dexicious SatrvE Dravcuts.—Carbonate of soda 
 and white sugar, of each twenty grains; lemon or tartaric 
 acid, twenty-five grains ; mix with water in two glasses 
 as usual. If you substitute a half lemon for the acid, it 
 is still nicer. 
 
 Sopa WaTER.—Tartaric acid, half an ounce; aerated 
 soda, half an ounce. Have two tumblers about one- 
 third full of water ; put a tea-spoonful of soda into one 
 glass, and the same of the acid into the other; when 
 dissolved, mix them together, and drink immediately. 
 
 The two sorts of salt must be kept in separate bottles, 
 and should be bought ready powdered. 
 
 Kine Cup.—The rind and juice of a lemon, a lump 
 of sugar, according to taste, a small piece of bruised — 
 ginger, pour upon this about one pint and a half of 
 boiling water; when cold, strain it, and add a glass of 
 sherry. 
 
 To MAKE CuERRY Branpy.—Stalk twelve pounds of 
 
 
 
 
 
_ LIQUEURS. 31 7 
 
 black cherries, and squeeze the juice through a flannel or a 
 linen bag ; pound twelve pounds of loaf sugar, and put 
 it to the juice, then break the stones, and put the kernels, 
 shells, and juice into an earthen jar with eight quarts of 
 brandy ; stop it well down, and shake it well every day 
 for a month, then filter it, and bottle it for use. 
 
 CuerryY Branpy (Another way).— Take Morella 
 cherries quite ripe, press the juice from them through a 
 _ wine strainer. To a quart of juice add three quarts of the 
 best brandy, one pound and a half of fine sugar, pounded, 
 three pounds of bitter almonds, bruised; put them into a 
 stew-pan for about three weeks in a moderate heat ; taste 
 it frequently, and add more sugar and almonds, as it may 
 require; pour it off clear, and filter it through white 
 writing paper. Put it in pint bottles, and keep it a few 
 weeks before drank. The kernels of the fruit with kernels 
 of apricot may be put in, if approved, and less almonds. 
 
 LIQUEUR DE QuaTREs Frurtrs.—Take scarlet straw- 
 berries, raspberries, currants, and Morella cherries, as 
 they ripen in succession. Extract the juice separately 
 from them, and add a small proportion of white sugar- 
 candy, so as to make it sweet and rich, but not a thick 
 syrup ; strain it off as clear as possible. When you 
 have the juice of the four fruits ready, mix them toge- 
 ther, observing to put in a smaller proportion of currant 
 and raspberry juice than of the strawberry and cherry. 
 To a pint of juice, add a gill of best brandy, and then 
 bottle it. The addition of some cherry and apricot 
 kernels will be a great improvement. The fruit should 
 be picked in very dry weather. 
 
 Wuite Noyrav.—Into a quart of spirits of wine, 
 put twenty drops of good essential oil of bitter almonds, 
 and six drops of oil of orange. Shake it well; then add 
 a quart of syrup. Filter it through a paper till quite 
 clear. 
 
 Pink Noyreavu.—To a quart of spirits of wine, add 
 fifteen drops of essential oil of bitter almonds, three 
 drops of oil of roses, four drops of oil of aniseed, and one 
 drop of tincture of vanille. Shake it well; then add 
 
318 LIQUEURS. 
 
 the quart of syrup, and a sufficient quantity of the pink 
 colouring to make it of a delicate pink. After filtermg 
 it, bottle it for use. The proportions we have given 
 for these white and pink noyeaus apply only to the best 
 and most concentrated essential oil. It may happen 
 that the oil is not so strong as we recommend, in which 
 case, a few drops more might be added before it is fil- 
 tered, by first dissolving them in spirits of wine ; but 
 this must be left to the maker’s taste and judgment. 
 
 Pink colouring for the pink noyeau is to dissolve half 
 an ounce of cochineal in a sufficient quantity of spirits 
 of wine. 
 
 The tincture of vanille is to be had at all the best 
 chemists. The preparation at home is somewhat trou- 
 blesome. 
 
 For the syrup of liqueurs and cordials, use the very 
 best lump sugar, treble refined ; the finer the sugar, the 
 more delicate the liqueur. To one pound of sugar, add 
 one pint of water ; bring it to the boil; then allow it to 
 cool ; never add it hot to the spirit. 
 
 Currant Water.—Take a pound of currants, and 
 squeeze into a quart of water; put in from four to five 
 ounces of finely-pounded sugar; mix them well toge- 
 ther, and pass through a straining bag, until it be clear. 
 Then put into a cool place. 
 
 RASPBERRY WaTER.—The same as currant water. 
 If the raspberries are good, three quarters of a pound 
 will be sufficient. 
 
 Curacgoa.—Boil a quart of water in a very clean © 
 stew-pan; add to it, bit by bit, a pound of dark brown ~ 
 sugar-candy. When the whole is dissolved, let the 
 syrup boil up: then pour it into a deep dish to cool ; 
 do not use the syrup until it is quite cold. Into a quart 
 of spirits of wine, drop one hundred and twenty drops of 
 oil of bitter orange; when this latter is dissolved, mix it 
 with the syrup just described ; then filter, and bottle 
 the liqueur, which should be of a rich brown colour. 
 
 Wuire Currant Branpy.—To one gallon of the 
 best white brandy, add three pints of white currant 
 
 
 
LIQUEURS. 319 
 
 juice, three pounds of loaf sugar, the peel of three large 
 lemons, half a pound of bitter almonds blanched and 
 bruised, put them into a pint of spring water to stand 
 four or five hours, mix the almonds with the other ingre- 
 dients, stirring it often for three days, strain it through a 
 jelly-bag till perfectly clear, and then bottle it. 
 
 Caraway Branpy.—Steep one ounce of caraway- 
 seeds and six ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of brandy ; 
 let it stand ten days, and then draw it off. 
 
 RASPBERRY Branpy.—Take a pint of water to two 
 quarts of brandy, and put them into a pitcher just large 
 enough to hold them ; add four pints of raspberries and 
 half a pound of loaf sugar; let it remain for a week 
 closely covered, and then strain it off. 
 
 It may be racked into other bottles a week afterwards, 
 when it will be perfectly fine. 
 
 Buack Cuerry Branpy.— Stone ten pounds of black 
 cherries, and put on them one gallon of the best Cognac 
 brandy ; bruise the stones in a mortar, and put them 
 into the brandy ; cover them up close, and let them stand 
 a month or six weeks ; pour the brandy clear from the 
 sediment, and bottle it. Morella cherries managed in 
 this manner make a fine rich cordial. 
 
 ORANGE Branpy.—Put the chips of twenty Seville 
 oranges to three quarts of brandy, and let them steep a 
 fortnight in a stone bottle, closely stopped. Boil two 
 quarts of spring-water with one pound and a half of loaf 
 sugar very gently for near an hour, clarify the water and 
 sugar with the white of an egg, then strain it and boil it 
 nearly half away; when it is cold strain the brandy into 
 the syrup. 
 
 Orance Wine.—To make ten gallons of wine, put 
 about 140 Seville oranges to produce one gallon of juice; 
 first boil the water, then pour it on the sugar (allowing 
 three pounds to the gallon), when dissolved take the 
 whites of six eggs, well beaten, mixed with a little juice, 
 then mix it with the water and sugar, and keep it well 
 stirred until it boils; let it boil half an hour keeping it 
 well skimmed, pour it upon half the peels ; when it is 
 
320 LIQUEURS. 
 
 almost cold put in the juice; when quite cold set it with 
 a little yeast, put on a piece of toasted bread, let it work 
 in a tub till the next day, then take out the bread and 
 peels, and put the wine into a barrel, and let it work for 
 two or three days, then put in two bottles of brandy and 
 half a pound of sugar candy, stop it down; rack it off in 
 January, bottle it in March. | 
 
 - To Maxe Gincer Lemonape.—Ten gallons of wa- 
 ter, twelve pounds and a half of lump sugar, to be boiled 
 twenty minutes ; clear it with the whites of six eggs. 
 Half a pound of common race ginger, to be bruised and 
 boiled with the liquor. The boiling liquor to be poured 
 upon ten lemons pared. When quite cold, put it in the 
 cask, with two spoonfuls of yeast, the lemons sliced, and 
 half an ounce of isinglass. Stop up the vessel the next 
 day, it will be ready to bottle in three weeks, and may 
 be drank in three weeks more. 
 
 TRANSPARENT LEMONADE.—Put two quarts of boil- 
 ing water on the rinds of twelve lemons pared very thin. 
 Let it stand till quite cold, squeeze the lemons, and if 
 you can get them, two Seville oranges upon one pound 
 and three-quarters of loaf sugar, adding one pint of 
 Lisbon wine. Clarify the sugar, put the water on the 
 fire, and when it boils pour it on the juice, sugar, &c.; 
 and add to it about a quart of new milk, let it stand all 
 night, and the next morning strain it through a jelly 
 bag, and let it stand till quite clear. 
 
 ORANGE SyruPp.—Squeeze as many oranges as you 
 intend for syrup, strain the juice off, and to every pint 
 of wine add one pound of loaf sugar, set it over the fire 
 and let it simmer half an hour, and take off the scum as 
 it rises, when cold put it into bottles, and mind and not 
 cork it too tight. 
 
 LEMONADE THAT HAS THE APPEARANCE AND FLA- 
 vour OF JELLY.—Pare two Seville oranges and six 
 lemons as thin as possible, and steep them four hours in 
 a quart of hot water; boil a pound and a quarter of 
 loaf sugar in three pints of water and skim it, add the 
 two liquors to the juice of six China oranges and twelve 
 
 | 
 | 
 ; 
 
LIQUEURS. 321 
 
 lemons; stir the whole well, and run it through a jelly 
 bag till clear. It will keep well if corked. 
 
 Wuiskey Puncu.—Whiskey when it can be had 
 genuine, is the purest spirit of any, and the least 
 noxious when taken in large quantities. The sugar is 
 first dissolved in boiling water, and the spirit added 
 either in a tumbler or jug, and that is the general pro- 
 cess. Some prefer a little lemon, in which case the 
 sugar should be rubbed on the rind, and the juice added 
 in making the syrup. <A spoonful of strawberry, or 
 raspberry jam may be added. 
 
 Toe Royau Orrare.—Half a pint of strong gun- 
 powder tea, one wine-glassful of brandy, one wine-glass 
 of rum, half a glass of Curagoa, and half a glass of 
 arrack, the juice of two limes, a thin slice of lemon, two 
 ounces of white sugar, and two glasses of warm calf’s- 
 foot jelly. To be drunk as hot as possible. The tea 
 deadens the inebriating effects of the spirits, whilst the 
 jelly softens the mixture, and destroys the acrimony of 
 the acid and sugar. 
 
 The whites of two eggs well beat up to froth may be 
 substituted for the jelly, 
 
 Gincer Berr.—Take a gallon of fine soft water 
 (rain water, if carefully procured is the best) and put 
 into it two pounds of lump sugar, a large lemon very 
 finely shred, one ounce of powdered ginger, and half an 
 ounce of cream oftartar. Let these simmer over the fire 
 for half an hour, taking care not to let them boil; then 
 add a table-spoonful of yeast, let it ferment for about 
 twelve hours, and bottle it for use. Two days after 
 being bottled, the beer may be used. 
 
 GinceR Beer (Another way).—Two gallons of water 
 and twelve and a half pounds of lump sugar to be boiled 
 together twenty minutes, clear it with the whites of six 
 eggs ; one pound and a half of common race ginger, to 
 be bruised and boiled with the liquor, which, when boil- 
 ing, to be poured upon ten lemons pared, when quite 
 cold put it into the cask with two spoonfuls of yeast, 
 the lemons sliced, and half an ounce of isinglass, stop 
 
 Y 
 
o22 LIQUEURS. 
 
 up the vessel next day. It will be ready to bottle in 
 three weeks, and in three weeks more to drink. An 
 old brandy cask is best for the purpose. 
 
 Ginger Winze.—Take one gallon of water, tite 
 ounces of ginger, three pounds of sugar, the rind of two 
 
 lemons, boil them together one hour, then let it stand to . 
 
 cool, when cool, put on a toast some yeast, let it work 
 one day, then put it into the barrel with the juice of 
 the lemons, two ounces of raisins, one gill of brandy : 
 let it stand three months, then bottle it for use. 
 
 To MAKE Sprucr Beer.—Put twelve pounds of trea- 
 cle to one pot of essence of spruce, and eighteen gallons 
 of water, mix the essence and treacle together in five 
 quarts of water until the liquor bears a froth, then pour 
 it into the cask, fill the cask with water, erae it well, 
 arid let it-stand thesplor four days to ferment, when the 
 fermentation is over put in one ounce of isinglass that 
 has been dissolved in a little small beer, stir it well, bung 
 it down close, and in four or five days bottle it off. To 
 fine it, take three or four lumps of sugar, melt it in a 
 spoon, and let it stand till cold, beat it to a powder, and 
 mix it with the finings; after it is boiled take three or 
 four egg-shells, beat them to a powder, and mix them 
 well in the spruce beer. 
 
 Curps AnD WHEY IMMEDIATE.—To a glassful of 
 noilk add a little solution of citrie acid (take care not to 
 put too much), this produces curds instantencottstys aoe 
 a pleasant acidulous whey. 
 
 A Lemonape, made with the juice of. thie pome- 
 granate, quinces, lemons, oranges, apples, currants, with 
 sugar, and a little water. To taste the acidity and 
 sweetness is very agreeable, and assuages thirst. 
 
 BREWING MADE EASY.—Put a handful of malt into a 
 tea-pot, then fill it with water; the first time rather 
 under boiling heat ; after it has stood some time, pour 
 off the liquor just as you would tea, and fill up the pot 
 again with boiling water in a similar manner; pour that 
 off till the malt in the pot is tasteless, which will be the 
 case when all the virtue is extracted. The liquor.or 
 
 _ a . 
 
 e+; ie 
 
LIQUEURS. 323 
 
 malt tea thus extracted must then be boiled with a few 
 hops in it, and when it becomes about blood heat, add a 
 little yeast to ferment it, and the brewing is done. To 
 brew a larger quantity, require the same modes of pro- 
 ceeding as it would to make a tea breakfast for a 
 regiment of soldiers. This is the whole art of brewing. 
 
 A peck of malt and four ounces of hops will produce 
 ten quarts of ale, better than any that can be purchased 
 in London; and for which purpose a tea-kettle and two 
 
 pan mugs are sufficient apparatus. 
 
324 
 
 POTTING. 
 
 Porrep Caves’ FretT.—Boil the feet as for jelly ; 
 pick all the meat from the bones; add to it half a pint 
 of gravy, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, garlic, a 
 shalot, and some shred ham; simmer it for half an hour; | 
 dip a mould into water, put in a layer of the meat, then 
 some neatly-cut pickled beet-root, and some boiled 
 minced parsley, then a layer of meat, and so on, till the 
 mould is filled; when cold, turn it out; garnish with 
 pickled eggs, beet-root, and parsley. | 
 
 IMITATION OF WORCESTER LAMPREYS.—A very good 
 imitation of the celebrated Worcester stewed lampreys 
 may be prepared in the followimg manner :—the fish 
 must be cleaned; and the skins, when scraped off, should 
 be put into the gravy to stew, for they add great rich- 
 ness. A dozen lampreys will require a pint, or rather 
 more, of good beef gravy, seasoned with cloves, mace, 
 pepper, and salt, and a little flour for thickening ; when 
 they have stewed gently for three-quarters of an hour, 
 the gravy should be strained, and half a glass of port 
 wine be added, and they will be ready for the table. In 
 this state they will keep many days; and, indeed, require 
 but an occasional heating, in order to preserve them for 
 a much longer time. 
 
 This fish resembles a small eel; it is about nime or 
 ten inches in length, flat at the tail, and having a sin- 
 gular distinctive peculiarity, namely, that of having holes 
 on each side of the throat. 
 
 To por Lampreys.—Take lampreys alive, and run a 
 stick through their heads, and slit their tails, hang them 
 up by their heads, and they will bleed at the tail end; 
 when they have done bleeding, cut them open, take out 
 the guts, and wipe them till they are perfectly dry and 
 clean (you must not wash them with water), then rub 
 
POTTING. ono 
 
 them with pepper and salt, let them stand all night, and 
 wipe them exceedingly dry again, then season them with 
 pepper, salt, mace, and a little nutmeg, roll them up 
 tight, put them in a pot with some butter, cover them 
 up with strong paper, and bake them in a moderate 
 oven ; when they are done enough, and near cold, drain 
 out the butter from them, put them in your potting pots, 
 and cover them with clarified butter. 
 
 To pot Logsters.—Take the meat out of the claws 
 
 and belly of a boiled lobster ; put in a marble mortar, 
 with two blades of mace, and a little white pepper and 
 salt, a lump of butter, the size of half an egg; beat 
 them all together till they come to a paste, put one half 
 of it info your pot, take the meat out of the tail part, 
 lay it in the middle of your pot; lay on it the other part 
 of your paste, press it close down, and pour over it clari- 
 fied butter, a quarter of an inch thick. 
 _ N.B.—To clarify the butter, put your boat into a 
 clean sauce-pan, stew it over a slow fire, when it is 
 melted scum it, and take it off the fire, let it stand a 
 little, then pour it over your lobsters; take care you do 
 not pour in the milk which settles to the bottom of the 
 sauce-pan. 
 
O20 
 
 INDIAN AND ANGLO-INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 CASSEROLE AU Ris A L’InprENNE.—(Casserole of 
 Rice, Indian manner.)—Is filled with a curry. Fri- 
 cassée some small chickens, adding an infusion of saffron, 
 Cayenne pepper, allspice, and some small pieces of 
 bacon from the breast. These should be cut with a 
 root-cutter half an inch wide, blanch them and simmer 
 them in consommé, and put them to the fricassée with 
 cocks’ combs, kidneys, and mushrooms. When finished, 
 place on it, in a border, some small green gherkins ; 
 glaze it, and serve. 
 
 Fis Curry.—Take eod, haddock, or soles, let them 
 lay a few hours in salt; cut them into pieces, and 
 stew in water, sufficient to cover them, into which a 
 good sized table-spoonful of curry powder has been 
 mixed. Fry in a quarter of a pound of butter a shalot: 
 and a few onions minced, a little pepper and salt ; when 
 properly browned put them to the fish, and stew alto- 
 gether till it be quite tender. All fish curries are best 
 stewed in a fish broth. 
 
 A Dry Curry with VEGETABLES.—This curry is 
 made with meat, or fowl, mixed with vegetables. Boil 
 green capsicums, or young green Chillies, with a clove or 
 two of garlic, if approved ; if not, with onions in some 
 veal gravy, with curry powder. You may add spinach, 
 sorrel, French beans, vegetable marrow, cucumber, cab- 
 bage, and small potatoes ; mix in your meat, cut into 
 small pieces, or fowl jointed ; add fried onions, season 
 altogether, taking care it is not too wet; have some hot 
 dripping ready to put into the curry, and take care it 
 does not burn whilst frying; mix in a little cream or 
 milk with a few pounded almonds, or cocoa-nut, not 
 rancid. Lemon pickle, a piece of sour apple, mixed with 
 the whole before serving. 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. 897 
 
 A pry Curry.—Skin and cut up a fowl, or small 
 pieces, the size of a walnut, from a neck of veal. Take some 
 finely powdered coriander seed, a little Cayenne, and 
 some onions. Fry in butter three or four minced onions, 
 and drain them. Fry the fowl, or meat, until brown, 
 with some curry powder, salt, half a pint of milk, or a 
 little cream, with a few pounded almonds, or cocoa-nut, 
 and a little water ; with the coriander seed, Cayenne, 
 and onions added to the stew. Keep the pan closely 
 covered, and let it stew till perfectly tender. Shake it 
 occasionally to prevent its burning ; add a little lemon 
 juice a few minutes before serving, or slice a sour apple 
 into the stew, which, when tender, the curry is enough 
 done. Rice to be served up separately. 
 
 Pisa Posu.—Take a chicken or fowl, which must be 
 left whole ; or neck or breast of veal, which boil till 
 tender; have some rice washed, which drain off, and 
 crush in a mortar without boiling. Cut up your meat 
 into small pieces if you use veal. Puta sliced onion 
 with it, and the rice into the water in which the meat or 
 fowl was boiled, adding mace, some pepper-corns, and a few 
 cardamoms tied in a muslin bag ; boil till the rice and 
 onion are sufficiently done; remove the muslin bag. 
 Season with salt, and serve up in a deep dish. 
 
 Perper Por.—Make a stock of three or four pounds 
 of beef, half a pound of lean ham and mutton, a bunch 
 of dried thyme, two onions, two potatoes pared and sliced, 
 in four quarts of water reduced to three. Skim as it 
 boils up; then strain through a colander; add a fowl 
 skinned and jointed, half a pound of pickled pork 
 sliced, and the meat of one lobster, or crab, minced. A 
 small quantity of rice may be put in with the meat— 
 some put small suet dumplings. When the fowl is well 
 boiled add half a peck of spinach that has been boiled 
 and rubbed through a colander; season with salt and 
 Cayenne. This pepper pot may be done without the 
 ham or fowl. In winter you may put carrots, turnips, 
 and celery into the stock. In summer, peas, lettuce, 
 &ec., &e. Served in a tureen. 
 
. 328 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 Sprnacu Curry.—Is made with spinach, picked 
 sorrel in less quantity, or green gooseberries, if to be 
 had, a few sour apples, and tamarinds; stew the whole 
 with onions fried, till tender ; add curry powder, rubbing 
 it well into the vegetables and fruits; a little gravy or 
 water must be added, and butter. Meat in small bits, or 
 prawns, lobsters, or oysters may be stewed with this curry. 
 
 The great art in making curries is the properly mixing 
 the ingredients and spices, and left to incorporate for 
 some time, so as to get their taste and flavour. 
 
 KHICHAREE, or CUTCHEREE.—Take a quarter of a 
 pint of split peas, which soak well in water, then boil 
 till swelled and tender; drain in a colander; wash in 
 several waters about one pound of rice, chop the peas 
 fine, and mix them well with the rice; add a little tur- 
 meric, or curry powder. Fry an onion minced in some 
 butter, with pounded cloves, mace, cardamoms, ginger, 
 and white pepper; have some veal stock, seasoned with 
 salt and pepper, put in the rice and the peas, with the 
 onions and spices; cover the pan closely, and let it sim- 
 mer, till the rice becomes tender, and dry. Stir with 
 a fork in preference to a spoon, it prevents the grains of 
 rice being broken. Garnish with hard eggs quartered, 
 with fried, or whole boiled onions. 
 
 Cuina Cuma.—Mince a pound of mutton with 
 some ounces of the fat of it. Slice two onions, a let- 
 tuce, with some minced mushrooms, and if the flavour 
 be liked, a few green onions minced, and some peas 
 if to be had; season with pepper, salt, a little Cayenne, 
 if approved, from two to three ounces of clarified butter, 
 and a little water; put into a stew-pan closely covered, 
 simmer from two to two and a half hours. Serve in the 
 middle of a dish of boiled rice—that is, the chila in the 
 well. A pint of peas, or cut vegetables, is sufficient 
 for this quantity. 
 
 Inp1AN KuBaB.—Put upon small silver skewers, 
 slices of apple and veal about the size and half thickness 
 of walnut and onions cut in halves alternately. To four 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. . 329 
 
 or five of these skewers you must have three good-sized 
 onions (a clove of garlic if approved) a full table-spoonful 
 of curry powder and a little veal gravy, with a little red 
 pepper. Mix well in a mortar, sprinkle these ingre- 
 dients over the kubabs, and stew the whole in a little 
 butter in a stew-pan. The apples may be left out, and 
 bits of pork substituted. Pieces of green ginger also, if 
 to be had. 
 
 Koorray Kay Kusas.—Take a pound (or two) of 
 mutton, beef, veal, rabbit, or fowl, and pound well in a 
 mortar, with two onions, some beef suet (or fat bacon) and 
 a tea-spoonful of salt, pounded pepper, cloves, cinnamon, 
 cardamoms, tamarinds, chillies two tea-spoonfuls, one 
 clove of garlic, ginger, turmeric, coriander, and cummin 
 seed, weighing altogether about two drachms, pound in 
 a mortar, with a little marjoram ; then form the whole 
 into balls or flat cakes about a finger thick, and fry in 
 butter. To be served up with a good brown gravy, and 
 rice in a separate dish. These kubabs may be served 
 dry, on rice heaped. 
 
 SHAMEE Kusas.—The same as kooftay kay kubab, 
 except chillies and tamarinds, adding a little lime (or 
 lemon) juice. Served with rice. All white meats are 
 best for curries. 
 
 A Pinavu.—Put your fowl into a sauce-pan with a tea- 
 cupful of veal stock, stew it about three-quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 Make your veal stock with a little mace, onions, celery, 
 salt to taste, and a few cardamoms ; then strain it off. 
 Boil the rice in this stock, add to it a few white pepper- 
 corns, strain off and dry the rice before the fire, which 
 stir with a fork to separate the grains. Have ready 
 some onions sliced and fried, to lay over the rice here 
 and there with some hard eggs cut in quarters, and a few 
 of the boiled cardamoms. Place the fowl on the dish, 
 and throw over it and round the dish the prepared rice. 
 
 To Bom Ricr.—Patna rice is best for curries, which 
 ‘must be washed well in several waters, and drained off. 
 Pour it into boiling water, and let it boil up for or about 
 
330 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 twelve minutes. Just before it is taken up, throw in a 
 good spoonful of salt. Pour through a colander, and 
 drain for ten minutes near the fire. Then lay a napkin 
 in a pan, and shoot the rice on it lightly out of the colan- 
 der, turn up the corner of the napkin over the rice which 
 will take out any moisture in it, and then lightly on to 
 the dish. You must not spoon or ladle the rice, nor 
 should the sauce-pan in which you boil it be stirred, 
 except just at first to prevent its lumping. Take the 
 scum off as it boils up. . 
 
 Pitau.—Take a fowl, stew it until it becomes very 
 tender in half a pint of water; then take one pound of 
 fat bacon well boiled, put it into a large dish with a pint 
 of veal gravy, and the fowl by its side in its own gravy, 
 having boiled one pound of rice (with twelve cloves) as 
 for curry, cover them thickly with it; fry three onions a 
 light brown, and put the slices round the dish, and slices 
 of hard egg and beet-root on the rice. 
 
 Capsicum Curry.—Prawns, about a pint, boiled in 
 salt and water and chopped very fine ; fresh cocoa-nut 
 half the quantity that there is of prawns; almonds or 
 dry cocoa-nut may be substituted finely rasped; a piece 
 of green ginger two inches long, three green chillies ; 
 these ingredients to be finely pounded, and then mixed 
 with the prawns; add salt and lemon-juice to taste, and a 
 little turmeric sufficient to colour it. 
 
 Split the capsicums (as many as may be required) 
 down the middle nearly to the stalk, scoop out the seeds, 
 fill them with the mixture, tie them round with thread, 
 and fry them in butter. Rice may be served or not with 
 this dish. : 
 
 K’HIcHREE.—Take four ounces of best dried peas, 
 
 wash and dry them, then fry them in a little ghee, or — 4 
 
 butter; then moisten them by sprinkling a little water 
 when on the fire ; after, boil them in twelve ounces of 
 water in a nice tinned copper vessel. When pretty soft 
 (but not quite) take it off. Put four ounces of butter 
 into another tinned vessel, and when melted throw in a 
 handful of onions, peeled and sliced lengthways, continue 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. oud 
 
 frying them till they get a nice red colour, then take 
 them out and put aside. Do not use the whole of the 
 four ounces of butter, but reserve a part of it to put to 
 eight ounces of rice properly washed, and fry it a little ; 
 then add the dae (or peas) with the water in which it 
 was boiled, and two pieces of green (or freshest) ginger 
 cut in slices. When the water has nearly evaporated, 
 remove part of the fire from below, and place it on the 
 brass cover, taking the pot occasionally off the fire, and 
 shaking it, but before so doing, add to the rice ten or 
 twelve cloves, one or two pieces of mace, ten or twelve 
 pepper-corns, and two died cassia leaves, a dessert-spoon- 
 ful of salt, and cover it up. This is called a white 
 k’hichree. When required of a fine yellow colour, add a 
 little of the best powdered turmeric about the size of a 
 pea at the time that the dae (or peas) are added. When 
 served up, ornament it with four hard boiled eggs, in 
 quarters or halves, with the fried onions, as you would in 
 palzoos. 
 
 Prrrer Warer.—Put a pint and a half of water into 
 
 a pan, with a piece of tamarind, or the juice of a lemon. 
 Take an onion sliced, and pound in a mortar with a table- 
 spoonful of curry powder, three or four cloves of garlic, 
 and twelve pepper-corns ; put this into the water which 
 contains the tamarind and mix well; place on the fire, 
 and add a dessert-spoonful of salt; cover up and let it 
 boil a quarter of an hour; strain through muslin into a 
 basin. Take a very small onion, chop it fine, and fry of 
 a light brown in a tea-spoonful of butter; pour in the 
 strained liquor, and give it a boil up. 
 
 _ A very FINE Inp1AN Curry.—Take of butter, four 
 ounces, or half that quantity (if the meat be fat, or the 
 curry wanted dry); onions, two ounces ; garlic, two or 
 three cloves ; turmeric, cummin-seed, and coriander, of 
 each, three drachms ; red chillies (or Cayenne pepper), 
 three in number ; black pepper, four or five corns ; green 
 ginger, half an ounce ; salt, a tea-spoonful. These spices 
 to be separately ground, adding a little water when the 
 substance is dry; the coriander-seed to be toasted a little, 
 
gaL INDIAN COOKERY: 
 
 to impart to it an agreeable smell. Put the ghee or 
 butter into an earthen pot, or tinned copper vessel, and 
 fry half the quantity of the onions, sliced lengthways, in 
 it, and when of a yellow-brown colour, take them off, 
 and set them aside; then add to the remaining butter the 
 meat, mixed up with all the spices, and cover it up ; oc- 
 casionally uncover it, and (before the meat is quite done), 
 as the ghee or butter evaporates, sprinkle a table-spoonful 
 of water on it; if much gravy be required, a proportionate 
 quantity of water is to be added, but the drier a curry is, 
 the nicer it tastes. Do-pecaza, and others, have no 
 gravy at all. The addition of the following articles is 
 sometimes had recourse to, to increase the flavour, as 
 dried cassia leaves, dried kernel of the cocoa-nut rasped, 
 tamarind water, green or dried mangoes (apples are a 
 good substitute), lemon grass, fenegreek-seed, the leaves 
 of which likewise add considerably to improve the curry. 
 
 Curry may be made of any thing, fish, flesh, or fowl ; 
 but the fish curries are the most delicate. Cold beef, 
 cold mutton, cold veal, choosing the parts the least 
 done ; the same meats raw; cold calf’s head, fowls, 
 rabbits, hares, cold game, fried or raw soles, or halibut, 
 or cod-fish, or skate, or eels, or salmon, or lobsters, or 
 crawfish, or crab, or prawns, or shrimps ; each of these 
 various articles will make delicious curry. If the meat 
 used be raw, it must be browned in a stew-pan, and 
 stewed until it is tender. : 
 
 KiwcErREE.—A_ tea-cupful of rice boiled; one sole 
 boiled, and chopped fine; two eggs; a little Cayenne 
 pepper, and black pepper, and salt ; two or three ounces 
 of butter; made hot for breakfast. A few shrimps added 
 is an improvement. 
 
 K’HarA Poiaoo.— Take one pound of mutton; four 
 or five onions, whole; one piece of green (or freshest) 
 ginger; two dried cassia leaves, or coriander, cummin, 
 or fenegreek-seed, a little; eight corns of black pepper; 
 twelve pounds of water. Boil these together, till four 
 
 pounds of liquid remain ; take the pot off the fire; mash . 
 
 the meat, &c., with the liquor, and strain through a 
 
 TI 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. 333 
 
 cloth, or tammy. Set this broth aside. Take eight 
 ounces of rice; wash it well, and dry it well, by 
 squeezing it in a towel. Put eight ounces (this may 
 be too much) of ghee (or butter) into a tinned copper 
 vessel, or frying-pan, and melt it; fry in it a handful of 
 onions, sliced lengthways, and, when acquired a good 
 red colour, take them out, and lay aside. From a part 
 of the eight ounces of butter, fry slightly a fowl, which 
 has been previously boiled in two pounds of water ; take 
 the fowl out, and, in the same butter, add the dry rice, 
 and fry a little. As the butter evaporates, add the 
 broth, and boil the rice init. Then put in ten or twelve 
 cloves; ten or twelve pepper-corns; four pieces of mace; 
 ten or twelve cardamoms, all whole; one dessert-spoonful 
 of salt; one piece of ginger, cut into fine slices; and two 
 dried cassia leaves. When the rice is sufficiently boiled, 
 remove all, except a very little, fire from underneath, and 
 place it on the top of the cover. If the rice be at all 
 hard, add a very little water to it; stir it about, and put 
 the fowl in also, to imbibe a flavour. On serving it up, 
 place a little rice at the bottom of the dish, the fowl in 
 the centre; cover it over with the remainder of the scat- 
 tered rice, some of the spices over, and garnish with 
 some hard eggs, cut into quarters, and the fried onions. 
 
 A Mahee polaoo the same as the k’hara polaoo, but 
 substituting fish for the meat, and which must have a 
 fish, not meat, broth for it. 
 
 A MEETAB (A SWEET) PoLAoo.—Boil three-quarters 
 of a pound of rice; but, before it is quite done, pour off 
 half the hot water ; fill the vessel up with cold, shake it, 
 and then drain it off, and place it, covered, near the 
 fire ; when dry, have sour apples peeled, and sliced (not 
 too thin), which boil in a syrup of sugar ; slice and fry 
 some onions in three or four ounces of butter. When 
 these are sufficiently browned, take them out, being no 
 longer required; put a few cloves into the butter ; pour 
 over it the rice ; stir it well and carefully, that the rice 
 be not broken or bruised. Place the apples at the top; 
 and let the whole remain near the fire to swell ; keep it 
 
3034 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 covered, stirring it occasionally. A plain curry is served 
 with this dish. 
 
 An Inp1aw Conpiment.—Green chillies, salt, garlic, 
 green ginger, and the leaves of the coriander plant. The 
 
 ‘seeds may be substituted. May be eaten with plain | | 
 
 boiled rice. 
 ANnoTHER.—Dry chillies, salt, tamarind, onions, garlic, 
 and coriander, well pounded, and mixed together. 
 
 RecEIrT FoR Curry PowpEer.—Three ounces of the 
 best turmeric; one ounce of the best ginger; one ounce 
 of coriander-seed; one ounce of cardamom-seed; one 
 ounce of caraway-seed ; one ounce of black pepper; half 
 an ounce of cummin-seed; half an ounce of hones 
 seed; half an ounce of Cayenne pepper. 
 
 Each ingredient to be separately pounded very fine ; 
 then mix all well together, and let the whole be made 
 very dry before the fire; put it into a wide-mouthed 
 bottle; cork it close, and keep it in a dry place. 
 
 ANOTHER CuRRY PowpER.—Put the following m- 
 gredients in a cool oven all night, and the next morning 
 pound them in a marble mortar, and rub them through 
 a fine sieve :—Three ounces of coriander-seed; three 
 ounces of turmeric; one ounce, each, of black pepper, 
 mustard, ginger; half an ounce of lesser cardamoms ; 
 half an ounce of allspice; a quarter of an ounce of 
 cummin-seed. Thoroughly pound, and mix together, 
 and keep them in a well-stopped bottle. Those who are 
 fond of curry sauces may steep three ounces of the 
 powder in a quart of vinegar or white wine, for ten days, 
 and will get a liquor impregnated with all the flavour of 
 the powder. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR CurRRY POoWDER.— 
 Take twenty tea-spoonfuls of best powdered turmeric ; 
 red dried chillies, or Cayenne pepper, eight tea-spoon- 
 fuls ; coriander-seed, twelve tea-spoonfuls; cummin- 
 seed, or dried pounded cassia leaves, twelve spoonfuls ; 
 each to be separately pounded, and then mix together ; 
 put into a wide-mouthed bottle, well corked, and in a 
 dry place. 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. 335 
 
 ANOTHER Curry Powper.—Half a pound of cori- 
 ander-seed ; a quarter of a pound of turmeric ; three 
 ounces of ginger; two ounces of capsicum, or chilli 
 pepper ; two ounces of cummin-seed; one ounce and a 
 half of black pepper ; half an ounce of cardamom-seed ; 
 half an ounce of cinnamon. Let the whole of the above 
 be reduced to a subtle powder, and mixed in a wide- 
 mouthed bottle for use. 
 
 DvuwHeEE, on CurDLED Mirx.— Warm milk on a slow 
 fire (so as not to boil) till the cream which collects on the 
 surface acquires a reddish hue, then take it off the fire, 
 and while still lukewarm, add a little duhee (or tyar), 
 tamarind, or lime juice. 
 
 Love ArrLe Cuutner.—Take of best love-apple a 
 large plateful, the rinds and seeds to be rejected, and 
 only the pulp used; dried salt-fish cut very fine, or rasped 
 about two inches square; six onions cut into thin longi- 
 tudinal slices, eighteen green chillies chopped fine, dry 
 tamarind (if to be had) one ounce, mashed up in about 
 three or four ounces of water, stones and fibres to be 
 taken out; a tea-spoonful of salt; ghee (or butter), two 
 ounces and ahalf. First put the ghee into a tinned 
 copper vessel placed on the fire ; when melted add the 
 onions, and as they begin to have a reddish hue, add the 
 chillies, stirring well for five minutes; then add the salt- 
 fish, continuing to stir the whole, when the ghee, or 
 butter, has nearly evaporated, add the love-apples, and 
 stir it about for a good while ; lastly, add the tamarind 
 water and salt, and mix the whole well, until it acquires 
 a pretty dry consistence. This chutnee is only for im- 
 mediate use, and will not keep above a day or two, and, 
 therefore, should be made in less quantity. 
 
 How to prepare ghee, is stale butter clarified by boil- 
 ing and straining. 
 
 To Make Petsu Mourta, or PicktEep Fisu.—Cut a 
 fish in slices, and lay in salt for an hour or two, then fry 
 it very crisp and dry ; let it stand to cool; afterwards 
 boil a table-spoonful of mustard seed, a little bruised ; a 
 few slices of ginger ; a few cloves of garlic, in vinegar ; 
 
336 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 let them cool; then put the fried fish in a jar and pour 
 the liquor over it; let the whole then stand for twenty- 
 four hours, or rather let it remain in the liquor till you 
 have occasion to eat the fish, which is generally eaten 
 with boiled rice. Ave 
 
 TAMARIND Fisu.—To four salmon weighing twenty- 
 five pounds, put four pounds of black tamarinds, half a 
 pound of curry powder, one gallon of vinegar, one pound 
 of mustard seed, a quarter of a peck of salt, two ounces 
 of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, and a little gar- 
 lic. A nice relish for the breakfast-table. To be served 
 with rice. 
 
 Inp1an SHARBUT.—Sugar and water, or eau sucré, 
 with the addition of aniseed and cardamoms, if agree- 
 able. | 
 
 Frrep CHICKEN A LA MAatLaABar.—Cut up the 
 chicken, wipe it dry, and rub it well with curry powder 
 containing a little salt. Fry the chicken in a sauté pan, 
 with a bit of butter, taking care that it is of a nice light 
 brown. In the mean time, cut two or three onions into 
 thin slices, draw them out into rings, and cut the rings 
 into little bits about half an inch long. Put these bits 
 of onion into a sauté pan, with a small bit of clarified 
 butter, and let them fry gently during a long time, over 
 a slow fire, until they have gradually dried up, and are 
 of a delicate yellow brown. Be careful that they are 
 not burnt, as the burnt taste of a single bit would spoil 
 the flavour of the whole. When they are as dry as 
 chips, without the least grease or moisture upon them, 
 mix a little salt with them, strew them over the fried 
 chicken, and serve up with lemon in a plate. 
 
 Burpwan Strew.—Parboil a fowl, and, when cold, 
 cut it up, and put it into a stew-pan, with a small piece 
 of butter rolled in flour ; add four table-spoonfuls of beef 
 gravy, two table-spoonfuls of Madeira or Sherry; two 
 table-spoonfuls of Port ; two table-spoonfuls of ketchup ; 
 half a table-spoonful of anchovy; eight middle-sized 
 onions ; and Cayenne to taste. Stew the whole over a 
 slow fire, till the onions become tender; then pour: it 
 

 
 INDIAN COOKERY. Sor 
 
 into a dish, and squeeze the juice of a lemon before 
 serving. 
 
 A Country Caprain.—Take a chicken, or any kind 
 of white meat; cut it into pieces, and sprinkle it with 
 salt and pepper, and fry it brown; then add to it three 
 onions, shred small, and fried brown, with three spoon- 
 fuls of vinegar, and four spoonfuls of water; stew it 
 gently, until half is evaporated, or boiled away; then add 
 a small sprinkling of curry powder, and dish it up hot. 
 
 Buusta.—Mash some potatoes ; have boiled one or 
 two onions, which chop small ; add capsicum or chillies 
 to taste, with a very little salt, and butter; mix the 
 whole well. It may be put into a mould, or heap it as 
 you would mashed turnips, or potatoes, and warm in an 
 oven, or upon a stove, or vessel. 
 
 Muiiacatawny Sovur.—The stock must be made 
 with eight pounds of veal and mutton, besides some cold 
 meat with the bones chopped; put in a few pepper- 
 corns, and a quarter of an ounce of mace, with five or 
 six cloves, and make the stock with it altogether. In 
 straining it, work the meat through a tammy, to enrich 
 the soup ; then skim the fat off; put it in a stew-pan, 
 with a pint and a half of milk; let it stew, and put in a 
 good fowl cut up; pound three raw onions, and a clove of 
 garlic ; squeeze the juice through a coarse cloth; put m 
 the soup, and then the curry powder. When you dish 
 the soup, squeeze in a lemon, and the seeds of four car- 
 damoms, pounded; put it into the tureen, and pour the 
 stock on it. 
 
 CaRAKAY, oR InpIAN Saucre.—A small bottle of 
 Cayenne ; eight table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup ; 
 two quarts of wine vinegar; two pennyworth of cochineal, 
 pounded fine, to give it a colour; two heads of garlic, 
 each clove to be peeled, and then added to the other in- 
 gredients; it may stand seven or eight days; and then 
 filter it off through cap paper; it must be closely corked, 
 except what is in use; some prefer a large onion peeled 
 and stuck with cloves, instead of the garlic. 
 
 To Bow Rice (Another method).—Wash it well in 
 
 Z 
 
338 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 cold water, and dry it in a clean napkin; boil some water, 
 with a little salt in it; strew the rice into the boiling water; 
 when it begins to swell, check the boiling with a tea-cup 
 of cold water, and continue to do so as it boils up, until 
 the rice is cracked. Before it begins to fall into pap, 
 and while the grains are yet separate from each other, 
 throw it into a colander, and let it dry before the fire. 
 
 How to sor Ricxr (Another fashton).—Wash the 
 rice perfectly clean; half a pound of rice in a quart sauce- 
 pan filled with cold water, let it boil slowly about twenty 
 minutes. Put into a colander to stand ten minutes by 
 the fire. Before you take your rice off the fire, add half 
 a table-spoonful of salt. Shake your colander with a 
 fork, so as to separate the grains and make it quite dry. 
 Send up in a separate dish from the curry. 
 
 Aw Inpran DisH, cALLED Battacnuone.—Take a 
 pint of picked shrimps, a pint of sour apples finely 
 chopped, mix and shake them in a stew-pan to dry a 
 little over the fire. Take one pound of butter, two 
 cloves of garlic, and one onion chopped very fine; pep- 
 per and salt to taste, a spoonful of curry powder and 
 Cayenne mixed. Fry the onion and garlic in the butter, — 
 and the other ingredients fry together. Putthem whole 
 into a jar and cover close. When wanted for use, fry 
 a piece in small quantities dipped in butter. 
 
 Receret For Benaau Cuetney.—Take half a 
 pound of pounded chillies or Cayenne pepper, half a 
 pound of pounded green ginger, half a pound of fine 
 salt, half a pound of fine raisins stoned, half a pound of 
 fine soft sugar, and half a pound of tamarinds ; pound 
 the whole till well mixed together, adding as much 
 vinegar as will make the whole in a fine paste. It im- 
 proves by being kept in a jar (well corked and tied down 
 with skin) for three months. As green ginger or tama- 
 rinds cannot be got in England so fresh as in India, mix 
 green apples pounded with the dry powder of ginger, 
 and tamarinds that are attainable in the shell at some of 
 the India shops. Stone the tamarinds before they are 
 pounded, and take out the strings or fibres. 
 
INDIAN COOKERY. 339 
 
 MULLAGHEE TAUNEE, oR CurRY Sour.—Take either 
 fowl, rabbits, or white meat, cut into small pieces or 
 joints; three large spoonfuls of curry powder, three 
 large onions, and an equal quantity of shalots, to be also 
 cut into small pieces, and three table-spoonfuls of butter. 
 Fry the whole together, in a broad flat stew-pan, till the 
 fowl or meat is browned ; then take one quart of boil- 
 ing gravy, stir it well, and boil gently till the fowl or 
 meat be tender; this quantity of gravy is sufficient for 
 one fowl, or one pound and a half of meat—but for two 
 rabbits, &c., it will take two quarts of gravy more or 
 less. Half a tea-cupful of bread raspings may be put 
 in, about half an hour before you take the soup off the 
 fire, should it be not thick enough—and if acid be 
 agreeable, the juice of a lemon improves it. 
 
 N.B. This, like all other soups, require straining. 
 Rice should be sent up on a separate dish, to serve with 
 this soup. 
 
 AN INIMITABLE Curry.— Half roast a nice round and 
 plump chicken, baste it well with the best butter, and 
 fry two large onions a light brown in the dripping. 
 Then cut the chicken up in pieces, and put them into a 
 stew-pan, with the fried onions and one clove of garlic, 
 two dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, one ounce of 
 butter, four or five blanched almonds well bruised in a 
 mortar, and water enough to cover the whole. Then 
 let all simmer till the pieces are quite tender, and serve 
 up with a squeeze of lemon, and salt to your taste. 
 
 To MAKE A pRY LozsTtER Curry.—Three pounds 
 of lobster (or prawns), and cut in square pieces about 
 the size of a small walnut, so as to be sufficient for one 
 bite; melt in a stew-pan four ounces of best fresh 
 butter, three large sized onions, and fry them in the 
 butter; when the onions are done enough, put your 
 lobster into the stew-pan, and mix three table-spoonfuls 
 of curry powder, into a paste with water or milk, then 
 put the paste over the lobster, adding thereto a quarter 
 of a pint of cream, put it over the fire, and let it remain 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, observing to stir it the whole of 
 . Z2 
 
340 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 the time. Should garlic be unobjectionable, one clove, 
 chopped very fine, will very materially add to the fine 
 taste of the curry. Chetney will be an excellent accom- 
 paniment to this curry, as then no acid will be required 
 in the dish. 
 
 The proportions altered according to the quantity of 
 meat or fish required to be curried. | 
 
 A Curry.—Take three pounds of veal, or the same 
 weight of any other kind of meat that you wish to curry, 
 cut into small square pieces the size of a walnut; put a 
 quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter into a stew- 
 pan, three or four large onions, let it stew until the 
 onions begin to turn brown; then put your meat into 
 the stew-pan with three table-spoonfuls of curry pow- 
 der, not heaped up; then add to it a pint of good milk, 
 let it stew for from twenty minutes to half an hour; when 
 nearly done, have ready the juice of one lemon, put it to 
 the curry, and give it a very gentle boil, and serve up 
 quite hot. 
 
 A VEGETABLE CuRRY.—Spinach, young cabbage, 
 celery, a good deal of onions, and a little garlic, all 
 chopped fine and well fried, put all into a stew-pan 
 with a good gravy. Curry powder to taste, a good 
 piece of butter well floured ; when done sufficiently, add 
 lemon juice and salt just before sent to table. 
 
 _ N.B. In summer, cucumber and vegetable marrow, 
 with very young potatoes, and gooseberries may be 
 added. 
 
 Curry For onE Fowx.—Skin and cut up a fowl, 
 slice two onions into a frying-pan with a good piece of 
 butter, move them until they become brown, then add 
 three tea-spoonfuls of curry powder, put the fowl in to 
 fry with the onion until it is a pale brown; then add 
 two table-spoonfuls of milk, and a tea-spoonful of white 
 vinegar, put all into a stew-pan with a pint and a half 
 of gravy, cover it down, place it over a slow fire, and 
 stew it till you can cut it with a spoon. Boiled rice 
 served in a separate dish. 
 
 Mazay Curry.— Take from two to three ounces of 
 
ey 
 
 —— 
 
 taint 
 
 wee 
 
 INDIAN COOKERY. 341 
 
 sweet almonds, blanch and fry them till they are of a 
 nice brown, pound them extremely well with a little 
 onion, and part of the rind of a lemon. Cut up a 
 chicken; take a dessert-spoonful, not heaped, either of 
 turmeric or curry powder, with a little Cayenne pepper, 
 if necessary, in a cup of water. Put it with the other 
 ingredients into a stew-pan, and allow the whole to 
 simmer for about twenty to thirty minutes; then add 
 about a tea-cup of cream, boil it up once. Before 
 serving, stir in the juice of a lemon, or a little chilli 
 vinegar, or lemon pickle. A little salt to the above. 
 
 Mapras Prawn Curry.—Take rather more than a 
 pint of boiled and pickled shrimps, or prawns, from their 
 shells, or the meat of a lobster cut small; put some but- 
 ter into a stew-pan, with two onions, a very little garlic 
 or shalot well pounded, and two spoonfuls of curry pow- 
 der, and some salt; stew them together; add your fish to 
 this. Have a good quantity of spinach washed and very 
 clean, put it into a sauce-pan without any water, and 
 add it to the butter, &c. Cover the stew-pan close, keep 
 stirrmg it, taking care it does not burn; if necessary, 
 add a little water, for the ingredients must stew for a 
 few minutes over the fire, to incorporate themselves pro- 
 
 erly. Sour with lemon juice before serving. 
 
 The stock for fish curries should be made from fish. 
 Those of rabbit, fowl, or veal, from veal stock. All 
 white meats are better than brown for curries. Crab 
 pulled, that is shredded, makes a good curry. 
 
 Inp1IAN CuEetTN£.—One pound of green mangoes, if 
 to be had; or one pound of very sharp apples, pared and 
 cored ; one pound of raisins, very well washed, stoned, 
 and dried; one pound of mustard seed, one pound of 
 green ginger, garlic half a pound (if garlic is not liked, 
 twelve onions); best dried chillies eight ounces, or more; 
 moist sugar two pounds; salt one pound; white wine vi- 
 negar two bottles. The ginger, apples, garlic, or onions, 
 to be peeled, and, together with the chillies, to be cut 
 into thin slices, previous to being pounded. The mustard 
 seed to be washed, and dried, then gently bruised and 
 
342 INDIAN COOKERY. 
 
 winnowed. The sugar to be made into a thick syrup; 
 the mangoes picked of their rind, and cut into thin slices 
 and pounded. Some boil them in three quarts of the 
 vinegar, adding the fourth quart when mixing it up with 
 the other ingredients ; every article to be separately 
 pounded, and the whole to be incorporated and put into 
 stone jars, well closed and tied down, and placed in the 
 sun for a month. If put into glass bottles, it should be 
 occasionally put into the sun. 
 
— 
 
 Paes 
 
 343 
 
 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 ON FRENCH SOUPS IN GENERAL. 
 
 THE more expensive methods of making French soups 
 are not introduced into these pages. Caréme says, that 
 at grand balls and dinners, he used to roast turkeys only 
 for his soups and consommés, and he talks as glibly of two, 
 four, and half a dozen fowls, as though they cost nothing. 
 Such a system of cookery, however well it may look on 
 paper, would be destructive in England to even a large 
 fortune, and it is not thought proper or fitting to give 
 any receipts marked by this spirit of gasconading extra- 
 vagance. ‘There are other remarks of Caréme well wor- 
 thy of attention, and these we extract. 
 
 “The vegetables necessary for seasoning should be 
 trimmed and washed, and should be composed for each 
 soup of two carrots, two turnips, two onions, a bunch of 
 two leeks, and a head of celery. Be careful, above all, 
 that the consommé should have a gentle touch of salt.” 
 
 Caréme also says, “I was accustomed to let my consom- 
 més simmer during’ five consecutive hours, so as to obtain 
 all the gelatine that the bones contain, which is the most 
 animalised, and consequently the most nutritive of broths, 
 consommés, and essences, which we daily make. In 
 preparing my consommeés for soups with fowls browned 
 on the spit, I have laid aside the empotage, first, because 
 the fowls being roasted, lightly colour the consomme, 
 whilst by the system of the empotage, if it has been a 
 moment too long at the fire, it has too much colour, and 
 contracts a disagreeable taste; I therefore repeat, that by 
 the addition of the roast fowls the soup has a better fla- 
 vour and always presents the uniform golden and appe- 
 
344 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 tising colour. The famous Laguipierre did not use an 
 empotage, he added solely blond de veau to colour his 
 soups, but I prefer roast fowls. In a word, the boiling 
 which I give for five hours to my soups renders them 
 more nutritive in that they receive more osmazone and 
 gelatine. 
 
 Por au Fev pre Matson, ow Bovitton REstTAv- 
 RANT.—Place in an earthen pot, sufficiently large to 
 contain four pounds of sliced beef, a large knuckle of 
 veal, and a chicken half roasted ; add three litres of cold 
 water (a litre is a French pint, fully equal to three 
 pints and a half, English), and place the earthen pot at 
 the side of the fire, or on the hob ; gently skim it, adding 
 afterwards a little salt, two carrots, a turnip, three leeks, 
 half a head of celery, tied up in a bunch, and an onion, 
 with a clove stuck into it. Be careful to distribute these 
 properly ; let them simmer for five hours, without inter- 
 ruption ; after which, take out the vegetables, which 
 trim with care; taste the bouillon, salt it moderately, 
 skim off the grease; place your vegetables, already 
 trimmed, at the bottom of a tureen, and serve. This is 
 
 a good family broth, wholesome and restorative, and very _ 
 
 proper in families careful as to the food of their children. 
 Fowt Brots (Bouillon de Volaille pour les Potages 
 de Santé).—Spit two corpulent, well-fed fowls, and 
 brown them before a clear fire; then put them in a sauce- 
 pan, freshly tinned, with two French pints of water 
 (equal to three English pints); after having skimmed it, 
 add a carrot, a turnip, an onion, with a clove stuck in 
 it, two leeks, half a head of celery, and a lettuce; all 
 these should be chopped, and slightly coloured, by being 
 fried and sweated in clarified butter; add a little salt ; 
 and then let the whole simmer for nearly three hours. 
 Then carefully skim your broth, and pass it through a 
 silken tammy. This broth, without beef; is light, 
 nourishing, and suitable to persons of weak digestion. 
 Raspir Sour; or Stock FRomM Witp RasBsits 
 (Bouillon de Laperaux de Garenne).—Cut up two 
 wild rabbits, as if for gibelotte (a species of fricassée of 
 

 
 FRENCH COOKERY. 345 
 
 rabbit); add a pound of fillet of veal, cut in slices, and 
 grilled, to give your broth colour. Pour on these ma- 
 terials two litres and a half (equal to two English quarts) 
 of water; skim it gently, and add two carrots, two 
 turnips, two onions, four leeks, a head of celery, and a 
 lettuce ; all chopped, and slightly coloured by being 
 fried in clarified butter. Let your broth boil three hours; 
 pass it through a silken tammy, and serve. 
 
 A Maiere Brortu or Por Herss (Bouillon Maigre 
 d Essence de Plantes Potagéres).— After having picked 
 and washed two bunches of carrots, two bunches of white 
 or Swedish turnips, chop them small, and place them in 
 a sauce-pan on a moderate fire, with a little fresh butter. 
 Stir them, from time to time, with a wooden spoon, so 
 that they shall assume a uniform colour. As soon as 
 they assume a light-red colour, then throw in a bunch 
 of leeks, a bunch of onions, and six heads of celery, all 
 chopped up equally; let all remain sweating together a 
 quarter of an hour; then add ten litres (say nine 
 English quarts) of boiling water, an onion, into which 
 two cloves are stuck, a little salt, the smallest taste of 
 pepper, and of grated nutmeg; let it gently simmer; 
 skim it perfectly ; let it boil four hours, and then pass it 
 through a silken tammy. Observe, that it should be 
 slightly salted. You may use this broth to thim or 
 moisten soups, or sauces maigres, by carefully browning 
 the vegetables. It will give an agreeable and savoury 
 flavour, and presents, in addition, the advantage of 
 slightly colouring the soup. 
 
 Turnir AnD Pra Sour (Potage de Navets aux 
 petits Pois).—Cut six good, large, full-grown turnips ito 
 dice; give them a light colour, by sweating them in 
 clarified butter, stirring them continually with a wooden 
 spoon ; strain them off in a colander or tammy ; set 
 them to boil gently in the consommé, prepared as di- 
 rected; add a little sugar; skim the soup; and, when the 
 turnips are done, put them into the tureen, with a pint 
 of young peas blanched very green, and the crusts; and 
 then serve. 
 
346 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 CELERY AND Cuervit Soup (Potage de Celeri au 
 Cerfeuil).—Blanch six heads of celery, prepared as for 
 entremets, and stew them in good consommé, seasoned 
 with a small bunch of herbs, two onions, and two 
 carrots. Take out this seasoning; drain the celery on a 
 napkin, and cut it in large dice, and lay them in the 
 tureen with some chervil blanched, and the croutons 
 prepared as usual; then pour in the consommé, and 
 serve. 
 
 CaBBaGE Sour (Potage au Choux).—Parboil three 
 firm white small cabbages; drain them, and braise them 
 in top-fat, with a few slices of bacon, and seasonings. 
 Drain them again off this fat ; quarter them, and slide 
 them into the tureen; and over them pour strong well- 
 seasoned. boiling beef stock-broth. 
 
 Crear Vermicety Sour (Potage de Vermicelle au 
 Consommé).—Put in a soup stewing-pan two fowls, one 
 of which shall be roasted, so as to lightly colour the 
 consommé ; add a large knuckle of veal (from which the 
 bone shall be taken), and the requisite quantity of broth; 
 after having skimmed the pot, season it with carrots, 
 turnips, onions, and leeks, with a head of celery, and a. 
 few grains of mignonette. When the consommé shall 
 have simmered for five hours, skim it, take out the 
 meat ; then add the white of an egg, beaten up with a 
 little cold broth, in order to clarify it ; after a quarter of 
 an hour’s boiling, you pass it through a napkin, and set 
 it to boilagain. Then throw in twelve ounces of Italian 
 vermicelli (whitened and drained); let the whole simmer. 
 for twenty to twenty-five minutes, and serve. 
 
 Soup or A Purte or Fown, QueEeEn’s FasHIon 
 (Potage de Purée de Volaille a la Reine).—Put in a 
 soup pipkin two fowls and a boned knuckle of veal; add 
 as much broth as is necessary; after having skimmed the 
 contents put in the necessary roots ; let the whole boil 
 five hours, skim; when strained off, put it on again di- 
 rectly to boil; pour it afterwards by degrees in the soup- 
 dish containing a purée of fowl prepared as follows : 
 sautez the fillets of two fowls, pound them perfectly, add 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 3847 
 
 one ounce of rice stewed in consommé, and a quarter of 
 a pound of the crumb of a French loaf (the addition of 
 the bread crumb renders the soup smoother and more 
 velvety) ; add also two spoonfuls of béchamel, a little 
 salt, and a ladleful of hot consommeé ; put the casserole 
 over a moderate fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon to 
 prevent its boiling; then rub it through a tammy; when 
 serving, make it hot, stirring it without quitting it; pour 
 into it, by a little at a time, the better to mingle it, the 
 above consommeé, which should previously cease boiling 
 for a moment; serve the soup with bread cut in small 
 dice, and fried in butter of a light colour. The person 
 charged with serving should not add these croutons the 
 moment even of putting them on the plates; they are 
 thus more crisp; otherwise they swell by being soaked 
 in the soup, and give it a bad appearance and bad taste. 
 Soup or a Pur£e oF Youne Peas A La St. Croup 
 (Potage de Purée de Pois nouveaux a la St. Cloud).— 
 Put about three quarts and a half of newly-shelled young 
 peas into a skillet, containing sufficient boiling water 
 to blanch them easily; add a bunch of parsley and a 
 little salt; boil them on a brisk fire for half an hour, 
 strain them, take out the parsley, and pound them ; 
 put them then into an earthen vessel with some cold con- 
 sommé of fowl, prepared as usual, reduced to a demi- 
 glaze, so as to be able afterwards to add the water the 
 peas were boiled in; rub them through a tammy, and 
 place the purée in a tureen; when serving, make it boil 
 in a very clean skillet, or preserving-pan, that it may be 
 kept green; skim it, and add a pinch of sugar and two 
 pats of fresh butter, which mix with it after you have 
 taken it from the fire, not to let it boil again; lastly, 
 pour the purée upon bread cut in dice and fried in but- 
 ter of a light colour; but it is better to serve the crou- 
 tons separate. is 
 ~ A Brown BratsE.—Cut some beef suet, trimmings 
 of mutton, or lamb cutlets, or other trimmings of meat; 
 put them into a braising pan with four or five onions, 
 three or four cloves, a well-seasoned faggot, a little 
 
348 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 mace, trimmings of celery, two or three carrots, cut in 
 slices, and a few bay leaves; add about a pint of water, 
 and let it draw down for about half an hour on the stove : 
 when the liquid is quite reduced, add common broth, or 
 any broth which you may have to spare, to prevent it 
 burning at the bottom. 
 
 ConsomMé or PouLtry, or Cuicken Srocx.—Lay 
 a few slices of ham in a stew-pan, with some veal—the 
 knuckle is best. Lay backs and trimmings of fowl on 
 the veal, which moisten with veal stock, and put them to 
 sweat. When your meat is heated through, cover it 
 with veal stock, to which you add mushrooms, a bunch 
 of parsley, and green onions: fill up and skim as in the 
 preceding article. Strain your stock through a silk 
 sieve for use. 
 
 WuirTE Poftit.—Put a calf’s udder to blanch in a 
 stew-pan full of cold water; when it has boiled about a 
 quarter of an hour, take it off, and put it into cold water 
 for a few minutes; then cut it in small pieces, which put 
 into a stew-pan with about an ounce of butter, one or 
 two onions, a seasoned faggot, a few blades of mace, a 
 lemon well paired and cut in thin slices; add a few 
 spoonfuls of water, and put it over a slow stove; stir it 
 for a few minutes, then add common broth according to 
 what you want to braise. It is generally used for ten- 
 dons of lamb, veal, chicken, or any thing that is to be 
 white. 
 
 Sour ALA JULIENNE (Poftage a@ la Julienne).—Take 
 some carrots and turnips, and turn them riband like, a few 
 headsof celery, some leeks and onions, and cut them all into 
 fillets thus, RH: then take about two ounces of 
 butter and lay it at the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots 
 over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring 
 gently ; moisten them with broth and gravy of veal, let 
 them boil on the corner of the stove; skim all the fat off, 
 put in a little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the 
 vegetables: you may, in summer time, add green peas, 
 asparagus-tops, French beans, some lettuce, or sorrel. 
 In winter time, the taste of the vegetables being too 
 
oo t—t—O 
 
 FRENCH COOKERY. 3849 
 
 strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after 
 stew them in the broth: if they were fried in butter, their 
 taste would also be too strong. Put in thin slices of 
 bread of the size of a shilling cut round. 
 
 Turnie Sour.—(Potage a la Beauveau.)—Scoop 
 some turnips to the size of a marble; fill a pint ; throw 
 them into cold water: when the whole are ready, drain 
 and dry them well on a cloth, then fry them in an ome- 
 lette pan, with a lump of clarified butter as large as a 
 walnut, and a tea-spoonful of pounded white sugar. 
 Keep them in motion till their surface is of a fine cinna- 
 mon brown; drain them thoroughly on the back of a 
 sieve, and put them into asmall stew-pan, with a laddle- 
 ful of broth, to draw from them the butter in which they 
 were fried. When they begin to soften, drain them 
 again, and throw them into three pints of good brown 
 consomme, very clear, and simmer them till quite done. 
 
 Onion Soup (Potage a la Clermont).—Take about 
 half a dozen small onions ; cut them in two, and cut off 
 the ends ; then separate the coats of the onion, taking 
 out the thin skin which is between them. Cut the onion 
 in fine shreds, and proceed with these as you did with 
 the turnips in the preceding receipt. 
 
 Mock Turtie, rm THE Parisian Fasuion (Potage 
 Tortue & la Parisienne).—Dress in a mirepoix eight 
 fine white ox palates; then drain and press them on the 
 oven plate; when cold, trim them, removing all the 
 blood-stained particles; render them of an equal thick- 
 ness, and cut them with a cutter, of an oval form, of the 
 size of a coffee-spoon; place them in a sauté dish, with 
 two platefuls of cocks’ kidneys (not blanched), and a 
 wine-glassful of Champagne; sweat them gently for ten 
 minutes, and put them afterwards in consommé, in which 
 you have mingled four spoonfuls of flour mixed with cold 
 consommé, into a thin paste, to thicken the soup a little. 
 Now prepare an essence composed of two onions, a pottle 
 of mushrooms sliced, a bunch of chervil, two cloves, a 
 little grated nutmeg, a pinch of Cayenne pepper, a piece 
 of bayleaf, thyme, basil and marjoram, a little ham 
 
350 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 minced, trimmings of four truffles, half a clove of garlic, 
 a glassful of Champagne, and two large ladlefuls of con- 
 sommé ; boil these slowly nearly an hour, and rub them 
 through a tammy; then boil in it the four truffles, 
 trimmed in pieces of the shape of a large olive; add them 
 to the soup, give it a few boilings, and take it off the 
 fire, to throw in a liaison of ten yolks of eggs, passed 
 through a tammy; set the soup again over the fire, 
 and, when nearly boiling, pour it into the tureen con- 
 taining some small quenelles of fow], in which the parings 
 of the truffles, when chopped, have been added. This 
 soup yields in nothing to the mock turtle with Madeira 
 or calves’ head. ; 
 
 QueEEN’s Sour (Potage a la Reine).—Butter well 
 a sheet of strong white kitchen paper; cover it all over 
 with a thin layer of fat bacon : slice a small carrot thin, 
 and a couple of onions, which put on the bacon, with a 
 little parsley, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and a 
 bay-leaf pulled in pieces, two or three cloves, and a few 
 pepper-corns. Wrap this round two pullets, putting a 
 small piece of butter inside the vent of each, and placing 
 them in a line, the breast ends together; tie them up 
 with twine, put a lark-spit through them, and tie them 
 on your meat spit ; these require nearly an hour; baste 
 them well to prevent the paper from burning. When 
 they are done, tear off the skins; take the flesh from the 
 bones; throw the bones into a chicken stock, which you 
 have prepared from the flesh; trim away all fat and 
 nerves ; chop them, and immediately pound them with 
 the yolks of four hard eggs, and the crumb of a French 
 roll, soaked in a light chicken consommé, with which 
 moisten your purée, and rub it through a tammy; put it 
 in a stew-pan, with half a pint of cream, which has been 
 just boiled and skimmed; set it on the fire till hot, but 
 by no means boiling, or it will curdle; do not leave off 
 stirring; skim, and put it in a bain marie. Previous to 
 serving, add a little butter, which work in. You should 
 have rather more than two quarts of soup; add bread 
 fried in dice to a gold colour. If expense be an object, 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. ool 
 
 use the legs only, leaving the fillets for an entrée; or 
 use a fowl previously served. Some add twenty sweet 
 and two bitter almonds to the fowl when pounded. 
 
 Pur£E oF Lentixs (Potage de purée de Lentilles a 
 la Conti).—Pick and wash three pints of lentils (dentilles 
 a la reine), which put in a soup-pot, with a slice of lean 
 ham blanched, a partridge, a carrot, a turnip, an onion, 
 two leeks, and a head of celery, tied together, add the 
 necessary stock, and let it boil slowly for three hours ; 
 take out the roots, the partridge, and the ham, rub the 
 lentils through a tammy, and add some consommé to the 
 purée ; set it on to boil, and afterwards place it at the 
 corner of the stove, to clarify it, by withdrawing or 
 skimming off the scum and grease that is thrown up to 
 the side; when serving, pour it into the tureen with some 
 bread cut in dice and fried in butter. 
 
 Purs&e or Ontons (Potage de purée de Lentilles a la 
 soubise).— Make the purée as above, and add to it a 
 soubise prepared thus :—cut four large onions in slices, 
 and blanch them for a few minutes, strain them off, and 
 sweat them in fresh butter; add four spoonfuls of con- 
 sommé ; simmer them, and when the onion is in a purée, 
 add a spoonful of béchamel, rub it through a tammy, and 
 join it to the purée of lentils previously clarified ; serve 
 with fried bread as above. 
 
 Sour or A Purte or YounGe Carrors (Potage de 
 purée de Racines a la Créci.)\—Scrape and wash two 
 bunches of young carrots, then grate off all the red parts 
 only, without touching the hearts; your carrots thus 
 prepared, put the red part into a stew-pan with some 
 fresh butter, a little lean ham, an onion, a turnip, and a 
 bunch of leeks and celery ; sweat the roots gently over 
 a slow fire, stirring them with a wooden spoon that they 
 may become equally coloured ; then add some consommeé 
 to them, and let them boil slowly for two hours ; take 
 out the ham and roots, but strain the carrots through a 
 sieve, pound them in a mortar, return them back to their 
 liquor, and rub all through a tammy ; pour some con- 
 -somme on them, and set the Crécz to boil over a quick 
 fire ; when it boils, set it at the corner of the stove, and 
 
gan FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 skim it perfectly ; add a pinch of sugar to soften the 
 bitter flavour of the roots ; when thoroughly clarified, 
 pour it into the tureen, and serve fried bread on a plate. 
 
 Rice Sour A ua Crécr (Potage de Ris a la Crect).— 
 Prepare the Créci as above, and when clarified add four 
 ounces of Carolina rice washed, blanched, and stewed in 
 consommé ; give it a quarter of an hour’s boiling, stir 
 the soup, and turn it into the tureen. Prepare the con- 
 sommeé according to rule. 
 
 Carrot Sour (Potage de purée de Carottes de 
 Flandre).—Scrape eight large Flemish carrots (without 
 touching the hearts), mix with them two onions, two 
 turnips sliced, and a bunch of leeks and celery; sweat 
 these roots in butter over a slow fire, stirring them with 
 a wooden spoon that they may become of an equal 
 colour; when of a light red, put consomme to them, and 
 let them go gently for two hours, and finish and serve 
 with crusts like the purée of roots a la Créci. As soon — 
 as it is clarified, pour it into a soup tureen, containing’ 
 croutons rendered crisp by the stove. 
 
 Turnip Soup (Potage de purée de Navets).—Slice 
 one-fourth of a Swedish turnip, sweat it in fresh butter, 
 and keep it stirring with a wooden spoon to colour the 
 pieces equally of a light brown; then let them simmer in 
 some consomme for nearly two hours, and rub them 
 through a fine tammy; add consommé of fowl prepared 
 in the usual manner ; skim the purée to clarify it, add a 
 pinch of sugar, then pour it into a soup, and serve it with 
 fried bread on a plate separate. 
 
 Onion Sour A La Cressy (Purée d Oignons a la 
 Créssy).—Choose about twenty small onions, clean them 
 well, and cut into slices ; put them in a stew-pan with 
 a lump of fresh butter and a little sugar; jam them till 
 they be of a fine golden colour, then moisten them with 
 broth, and add the necessary quantity of bread. When 
 about to serve your soup, throw in two small glasses of 
 very old brandy. 
 
 Peart Bartey Sour A LA Royate.—For all pearl 
 barley soups, Caréme recommends German pearl barley as 
 infinitely preferable to the finest pearl barley of France. 
 

 
 FRENCH COOKERY. 3o”0 
 
 FISH.—FRENCH FASHION. 
 
 BraisE Marcre ror Borine Fiso 1n.—Take a 
 kettle of a sufficient size; put into it a bit of butter, 
 with a little vegetable soup, a little thyme, sweet basil, 
 garlic, parsley, and scallions, cloves, some slices of 
 onions and carrots, salt, pepper, with white wine suffi- 
 cient ; tie the head of the fish up properly, or any other 
 part, and put it into the kettle with these ingredients; 
 take care that it does not swim: put it upon a slow fire; 
 cover it with a buttered paper, taking care to wet or 
 baste it from time to time with its own sauce ; taste if 
 it is properly seasoned; when the fish is sufficiently done, 
 take part of the sauce, run it through a gauze search, 
 reduce it to a jelly to glaze the fish. 
 
 Fisu Jetyy (Glace de Poisson).—Rub lightly the 
 bottom of a sauce-pan with butter; cover it with sliced 
 onions and carrots; then add the remains and carcases 
 of fish, a little parsley and scallions, a bay-leaf, thyme, 
 sweet basil, and a clove of garlic; to these ingredients 
 add a ladleful of fish soup; let it boil, put it upon a hot 
 hearth or table; let it simmer till it becomes a jelly; 
 again add to it some fish soup, and pour it clear off into 
 a clean sauce-pan, and let it simmer another hour; run 
 it through a napkin; reduce it to a jelly, and use it for 
 glazing. 
 
 Lamprey in MaTexore (Lamprote en Matelote).— 
 Put one or two into nearly boiling water; gut them, 
 and cut them into junks, taking care of the blood; 
 cut off the head, and the end of the tail; put them into 
 a stew-pan with a little roux (see article Roux); and 
 put it over the fire; add some red wine, and stock, or 
 water, in equal quantities, some small onions, mush- 
 rooms, a bunch of parsley, scallions, salt, pepper, a bay- 
 leaf, and a little fine spicery; cook it, and take off the 
 fat; when ready to serve, thicken with the blood of the 
 lampreys ; taste it; dish, and serve. 
 
 ag 
 
304 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 GRILLED Satmon (Darde de Saumon Grillée).— 
 Take a cut of salmon; put it into a dish, and pour over 
 it a little good oil, fine salt, a bay-leaf, parsley, and 
 scallions cut in two; turn it, and let it soak for some 
 time; put it on the gridiron; turn, and baste from time 
 to time with the seasoning; lift with a knife a little of 
 the flesh, at the thickest part of the back; if still red, 
 let it continue cooking ; turn it on a cover, and take off 
 the skin; pour over butter sauce, and strew capers 
 upon it. 
 
 CUTLETS OF STURGEON IN PAPER (CoOtelettes d’Es- 
 turgeon en Papillotes).—Cut it into cutlets about the 
 thickness of a finger; put a bit of butter in a stew-pan, 
 and turn them when they become white; finish them in 
 the same manner as if they were veal ; if for gras, put 
 thin slices of lard ; if maigre, none at all. 
 
 Percues IN WINE (Perches au Vin).—Scale and 
 clean the perch. Cook them in good stock and a little 
 white wine, with a high seasonmg of parsley, chives, 
 cloves, &c. Thicken a little of this liquor for sauce. 
 Add to it salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a little anchovy- 
 butter. Always use white wine with white fish, and red 
 wine with red-coloured fish. 
 
 Finuets or SoLe A LA Horty (filets de Soles a la 
 AHorly).—After cleaning the soles, cut them entirely 
 open by the back, from head to tail; cut each into four 
 nice fillets, and steep them in lemon-juice, salt, parsley, 
 and sliced onions; shake them in this seasoning, where 
 they ought to remain nearly an hour; when ready to 
 serve, drain, flour, and fry them; they must be firm, and 
 of a good colour; dish, and serve under them an Italienne 
 or tomate sauce. 
 
 A Sauté or Fituets or Sore @ la Maitre d Hotel 
 (Saute de Filets de Soles a la Maitre d Hotel).— 
 Take of the fillets as above; the skin having been pre- 
 viously taken off, have some melted butter in a sauce- 
 pan, into which put the fillets; shake a little fine salt 
 over them; when done upon one side, turn them; drain, 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 300 
 
 dish, and sauce, with a good maitre d’hdtel, to which 
 some velouté reduite has been added and heightened 
 with a little lemon sauce, and serve. 
 
 Soites au Gratin (Soles au Gratin).—Cut the fillets 
 as above; spread upon these fillets cooked forced meat, 
 gras Ou maigre, about the thickness of a crown piece; 
 roll it equally on, all over; cover the bottom of a dish 
 with forced meat about half an inch thick; form a crown 
 of the fillets, upon the dish, so that there will be a well 
 in the middle; put a little of the forced meat into the 
 intervals within and without, that the fillets may form 
 one mass; unite the whole with the blade of a knife 
 dipped in hot water; strew crumbs of bread over; baste 
 it with butter, and send it to the oven; when done, put 
 into the hollow or well a provengale, or an Italienne. 
 
 Wuitines witu Herss (Merlans aux fines Herbes). 
 —Prepare the whiting as for frying; put butter, parsley, 
 and scallions finely hashed, salt and nutmeg, into a deep 
 dish, and lay them in ; baste with melted butter, and 
 put some stock and white wine to them; turn them when 
 half done; when they are cooked, put their seasoning 
 into a stew-pan, without taking them out of the dish ; 
 add _a little butter rubbed in flour ; cook, and thicken it ; 
 add lemon-juice, and a little pepper ; sauce, and serve. 
 
 Mackarew &@ la Maitre d Hotel (Maquereaux a la 
 Maitre d Hotel).--Take three or four mackarel; see 
 that they are very fresh, and of an equal size, that 
 they may cook equally; gut them by one of the ears, 
 and take out with a knife the puddings at the navel; 
 wipe them; open the back and head; cut off the nose 
 and tail ; powder them with a little salt ; marinade them 
 with oil, parsley, and small onions cut in two; turn 
 them in this seasoning; if large, they will take three 
 quarters of an hour on the gridiron ; if small, half an 
 hour will suffice ; take care their bellies do not open, 
 that they may not lose their juice; cook them upon red 
 cinders ; after they have been done sufficiently on both 
 sides, put them on their back, that they may be tho- 
 roughly done; dish, and, with a wooden spoon, puta 
 
 2a2 
 
356 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 little cold maitre d’hétel into their backs, with the juice 
 of lemon, or sauce with it thickened, and serve. 
 
 Rep Moutets, wita Maitre d Hotel Sauce (Rou- 
 gets & la Maitre d’ Hotel).—This fish, like the wood- 
 cock, is not gutted. Take the gills from five mullets, 
 scale them carefully but lightly, cut off the fins, wash, 
 wipe, and scatter over them a little salt, pepper, and a 
 gill of Provence oil; half an hour before serving, lay 
 them on a sheet of paper oiled on both sides, and place 
 them over a slow fire on a gridiron rubbed with oil also ; 
 in a quarter of an hour, turn them over upon another 
 sheet of oiled paper, renew the fire, and, when they are 
 done enough, dish them on a maitre dhétel of eight 
 ounces of butter masked in the usual manner; glaze 
 them at top ; serve a portion of the sauce in a boat. 
 
 Rep Mutuer wits Sweet Herss ( Sur-Mullet aux 
 Fines Herbes).—Put the fish into a deep sauté pan, 
 with a ladleful of sauce tournée, and two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of fines herbes. Put a cover over them, and 
 bake them or stew them on a back stove, with fire under 
 and over. When done, dish them, skim the sauce, and 
 drain it through a colander spoon ; season with a little 
 pepper, salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and mask 
 the fish with it. 
 
 Rep Mvu.Luets with Sweet Herpes (Rougets aux 
 Fines Herbes).—After having prepared and marinaded 
 the mullets as directed in the receipt a la Maitre d’Hotel, 
 lay them on the strainer well buttered, and place them 
 in a kettle, with eight ounces of butter melted, a pottle 
 of mushrooms chopped, two spoonfuls of chopped pars- 
 ley, and a part of a shalot chopped and blanched ; salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, sufficient to season the fish ; add 
 the juice of a lemon, and half a bottle of Chablis wine ; 
 make it boil over a quick fire ; moisten the fish with its 
 liquor ; place fire above and below it, and let it simmer 
 gently for half an hour; dish them with care, and pour 
 their liquor over them, serving a portion of it in a boat. 
 
 Trout or PIKE A LA GENEVOISE.—Clean the fish, 
 but do not seale it. Put a little court bouillon in a 
 
 é —- tie 
 ee 
 
FRENCH COOKERY: 357 
 
 stew-pan with parsley-roots, cloves, parsley, two bay- 
 leaves, and onions, also a carrot. When these have 
 stewed an hour, strain the liquor over the pike or trout 
 in a small oval fish-pan, and add a little Madeira to the 
 liquor. When boiled, drain it, and take off the scales 
 thoroughly; then put it in the pan, with a little of the 
 liquor to keep it moist and hot. Make a roux or thick- 
 ening, and add to it veal-gravy (or, if for a maigre 
 dish, wine) ; season this sauce with mushrooms, parsley, 
 and green onions. Let it stew till smooth. Thicken 
 with butter kneaded in flour. Strain the sauce hot over 
 the dished fish, with a squeeze of lemon. For trout use 
 claret or some red wine, with mace and more cloves. 
 STURGEON A LA Romutvus (sturgeon a la Romu- 
 lus).—After having chosen a large piece of sturgeon, 
 take the skin carefully therefrom without touching the 
 flesh, and throw a handful of salt over and under it; an 
 hour after, wash and wipe it, tie it up and lay it on the 
 drainer in a kettle ; pour over it an essence formed as 
 follows : slice four carrots, four onions, two pottles of 
 mushrooms, whole parsley, two cloves of garlic, two 
 bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, basil, four cloves, a pinch 
 of mace, some pepper, a little salt, and two glasses of 
 Provence oil; sweat these lightly over a slow fire, stir- 
 ring them with a wooden spoon; then add two ladlefuls 
 of consommé, and let it simmer for an hour and a half, 
 squeeze it through a tammy, and pour it over the fish, 
 which season with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and the 
 flesh of two lemons sliced (with the pips taken out) and 
 laid upon the fish ; add a bottle of Champagne ; cover 
 the kettle and set it over a quick fire; when it boils, lay 
 fire on the top and underneath, that the fish may sim- 
 mer slowly for two hours ; wet the fish with its liquor 
 every quarter of an hour ; when ready to serve, pass the 
 liquor through a silk sieve, without suffermg the least 
 particle of the oil to go through: reduce this liquor to a 
 demi-glaze, one-half of which add to the sauce a la 
 Romaine; when it boils, work smoothly into it eight 
 ounces of cold butter ; pour one half of the sauce upon 
 
358 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 the dish, on which lay the sturgeon, glazed with its 
 own reduced liquor, and serve the remaining sauce in a 
 boat. 
 
 FRENCH SAUCES. 
 
 Buanc (A rich Broth or Gravy in which the French 
 cook various Small Dishes).—Mince one pound of beef- 
 suet, or kidney fat, and one pound of shavings of fat 
 bacon, pass them over a slow fire, in a stew-pan, adding 
 four ounces of fresh butter, a bundle seasoned with 
 half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme and basil, mace, and 
 two cloves; add a pinch of pepper, a little salt, and 
 the pulp of two lemons, without the pips ; sweat them 
 over a slow fire, without colourmg them, then add ~ 
 water sufficient to cover the material to be dressed. 
 Many cooks add a little flour, but this is useless. When 
 done, keep the blanc for use. 
 
 SPANISH OR Brown Sauce (Lspagnole).—Add some 
 brown consommé boiling, to some brown roux in a stew- 
 pan; do not mix them over the fire; let them be well 
 mixed. Put it on a brisk fire, and add brown consommé 
 till your sauce is of the consistency of melted butter: 
 stir without intermission ; let it boil; thin it sufficiently 
 with consommé for all the scum and fat to rise; put it on 
 the corner of the stove to clarify, with a few mushroom 
 trimmings, truffles if you have them, a seasoned faggot 
 of herbs, a few green onions and pepper-corns, a blade of 
 mace, a little allspice, and a piece of ham. When tho- 
 roughly cleared and skimmed, strain it through a tamm 
 into a basin, stirring occasionally till cold. This forms 
 the basis of the greater part of the brown sauces. 
 
 Saut WaTeER To Bort FisH 1n (Lau de Sel).—Fill 
 a small kettle with water, and put in a sufficient quan- 
 tity of salt, with some whole young onions, branches of 
 parsley, one or two heads of garlic, zests of carrots, 
 thyme, bay leaves, sweet basil, and two cloves; let it 
 boil three-quarters of an hour, skim and take it off the 
 fire, cover it with a cloth, leave it half or three-quarters: 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 309 
 
 of an hour to settle ; pass it through a gauze search; it 
 is then ready for cooking fish, or any thing that requires 
 salt. water. 
 
 Sauce A va Marerore ror Fisu.—Take a large 
 pint of brown roux heated, or of Espagnole ; put to this 
 six onions sliced and fried with a few mushrooms, or a 
 little mushroom-ketchup, a glass of red wine, and a little 
 of the liquor in which the fish was boiled. Give it a sea- 
 soning of parsley, chives, a bay leaf, salt, pepper, allspice, 
 and a clove. Mix it up (using a large wooden spoon) to 
 make it blend well. Put veal gravy to it if you wish it 
 more rich, or a good piece of butter. Strain it, and 
 serve over stewed carp or trout. 
 
 La Doucette arrer Beravvitirer’s Recerer, — 
 Mince mushrooms, parsley, young onions or shalots, 
 equal quantities of each ; put some butter into a stew- 
 pan with as much rasped bacon; put them upon the fire; 
 season with salt, pepper, fine spiceries, a little grated 
 nutmeg, and a bay leaf; moisten with a spoonful of 
 Espagnole or veloute; let it simmer, taking care to stir 
 it ; when sufficiently done, finish it with a thickening of 
 yolks of eggs well beaten, which must not boil; the juice 
 of a lemon is not necessary, but may be added. Put it 
 into a dish, and use it for every thing that is served en 
 papillotes. 
 
 Poor Mawn’s Sauce (La Sauce au pauvre Homme.)— 
 This sauce is generally sent up with young roasted turkeys. 
 Chop a few shalots very fine, and mix them with a little 
 pepper, salt, vinegar, and water, and serve it in a boat. 
 
 Sauce Tournée.—Take some white roux, dilute it 
 with some consommeé of fowl, neither too thin nor too 
 thick. A sauce when too thick will never admit of the 
 fat being removed. Let it boil on the corner of the 
 stove. ‘Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of 
 parsley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there 
 is no grease left, strain it through a tammy, to use it 
 when wanted. 
 
 Sauce A L’ALLEMANDE.—This is merely a sauce 
 tournée as above reduced, into which is introduced a 
 
360 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 thickening or liaison composed of the yolks of eggs well 
 seasoned. ‘This sauce is always used for the following 
 sauces or ragouts, viz., blanquette of all descriptions, of 
 veal, of fowl, of game, or palates, ragout, a-la-toulouse, 
 loin of att a-la-béchamel, white financiére royale, 
 &e., &e. 
 
 A Mactporns.—Take all sorts of roots and vegeta- 
 bles, such as carrots, turnips, button onions, cucumbers, 
 peas, French beans, asparagus, knobs of cauliflower, arti- 
 choke bottoms, &c.: these are blanched and boiled sepa- 
 rately, and cut in small fancy shapes. When the whole 
 are done, they are drained and put together in a stew- 
 pan, and covered with supréme sauce.—See post for 
 Supréme. 
 
 Gascony Sauce (Sauce a la Gasconne).—Put in a 
 ragout stew-pan a table-spoonful of Provence oil, add. to 
 it a small chopped clove of garlic and a small portion of 
 parsley, chives, mushrooms, and truffles, also hashed, 
 also a little pepper and grated nutmeg. Sweat these 
 over a moderate fire; pour in a glass of good Chablis, and 
 sufficient veloute (not too thick) for an entrée. Skim 
 and sweat sufficiently. When sufficiently sweated, add 
 a liaison of three yolks of eggs and a few spoonfuls of 
 broth. Put the whole in a bain marie. At the moment 
 of serving, add a little anchovy butter. 
 
 AncuHovy Burrer.— Wash five or six arichavien take 
 off the flesh and pound it well; pass it through a hair 
 tammy, then mix it up with an equal quantity of butter. 
 
 VeLoutT£.—Take part of the leg or knuckle of veal, 
 two fowls, four carrots, four onions, one of which should 
 be stuck with cloves, a good bunch of parsley and chives, 
 and put all in a clean stew-pan. Add to it a full ladle- 
 ful of consommé. Place the stew-pan upon a bright 
 fire; be careful to skim the contents, so that your sauce 
 may not be turbid. When you perceive that the liquor 
 is visibly reduced, and that it bubbles in boiling, wet the 
 materials in the stew-pan with consomme; be careful to 
 skim it. When it boils place it on the corner of the 
 stove; make a roux blanc (see Roux Blanc—post), in 
 
 2 agen PIB 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 861 
 
 which you should put twenty mushrooms steeped in cold 
 water and lemon-juice, stir them in your hot roux, then 
 dilute your roux blanc with the liquid of your veloute. 
 After this process you should pour your roux blanc upon 
 your materials, boil your sauce upon the corner of the 
 stove, skim it well. At the end of an hour and a half 
 remove the sauce, pass through a tammy; be careful that 
 your veloute is as white as possible. 
 
 ANoTHER VELOUTE SAUcE.—Put to stew two pounds 
 of veal, or the legs, backs, and trimmings, of two raw 
 fowls, about two ounces of lean ham, witha small ladle- 
 ful of white consommé; put the stew-pan, covered, on 
 a strong fire; when the consommé is half reduced damp 
 your fire, to let the veal sweat and throw out its juices, 
 prick it through the thick of it, and let it remain a 
 quarter of an hour at least. When reduced quite low, 
 but without being in the least /coloured, throw a sauce 
 tournée into it, and stir till boiling takes place; the fire 
 being renewed, draw the stew-pan to the corner of the 
 stove, put ina few mushrooms, a small onion, stuck with 
 a clove, a blade of mace, and a few white pepper-corns. 
 Cover and let it simmer till the meat is done. Skim it 
 thoroughly, and when the whole is nearly reduced, add 
 seven or eight spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and a little 
 consommeé; stir till boiling. Let it simmer till the 
 sauce is ‘well flavoured. Strain it through a tammy 
 into a small stew-pan. Add a little Cayenne and lemon 
 juice if it is not sharp enough. 
 
 Waite Roux (Roux Blanc).—Melt a pound of but- 
 - ter in a stew-pan, add to it a litron (sixteen cubic inches) 
 of flour; place both butter and flour upon a stove not 
 too hot, keep incessantly stirring it till it be very hot, do 
 not let it assume any colour, the whiter it is the better; 
 use it to unite your velouté with other sauces. Be care- 
 ful not to use any other than wheat flour, because rye 
 flour is bad for liaisons. 
 
 Suarp Sauce (Sauce Piquante).—Put in a stew-pan 
 a quart of vinegar, two pods of allspice, a pinch of the 
 finest pepper, a bay leaf, and a little thyme; let it reduce 
 
362 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 to one half, then add three full spoonfuls of Espagnole, 
 and two of bouillon; reduce your sauce, so that it may 
 have the appearance of a clear bouillie; add to it the 
 necessary salt to make it relishing. 
 
 Supreme Sauce (Sauce Supreme).—Put a skim- 
 ming ladleful of velouté in a stew-pan, and four good 
 spoonfuls of the same sized ladle of essence of fowl, 
 when this is reduced one-half, and at the moment of 
 serving, put a coffee-spoonful of finely chopped parsley, 
 and a little fresh butter, a little whole pepper, and the 
 half of a lemon. Work up these materials well in your 
 sauce, without allowing it to boil, and pour it over your 
 dish. See that it is properly seasoned with salt. 
 
 ANOTHER SAucE RoBerRT FOR Pork CHoprs, &e.— 
 Cut in rounds a dice, six large onions, or more, if neces- 
 sary ; put them into a stew-pan, with butter ; set them 
 on a good fire ; dredge and brown them ; moisten them 
 with some veal gravy ; skim it, that the sauce may look 
 bright ; add pepper and salt ; and, before serving, mix 
 in a spoonful of mustard. 
 
 Sauce A 1a Mrreporx.—Cut two pounds of fillet of 
 veal, one pound of fat bacon, one pound of lean ham, 
 four carrots, four onions, all into dice. Pass off the 
 whole with one pound of fresh butter, some whole 
 parsley, a handful of mushrooms, two shalots sliced, the 
 least bit of garlic, a bay-leaf, a little thyme and basil, 
 and pepper, with a blade of mace—the whole drawn over 
 a slow fire; add the flesh of two lemons, sliced thin, re- 
 moving the pips, three ladlefuls of stock or consommé, 
 and half a pint of good white wine (if approved). 
 Simmer the mirepoix for two hours, and squeeze it 
 through a tammy. Use this for entrées directed to be 
 prepared 4 la mirepoix. The mirepoix differs from the 
 poéle only in the addition of mushrooms and wine, which 
 is sometimes Champagne, Madeira, Malaga, or Sau- 
 terne, according to the use required. 
 
 GERMAN Sauce (Sauce Allemande).—Put a little 
 minced ham into a stew-pan, and a few trimmings of 
 poultry, either dressed or undressed; three or four 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 363 
 
 shalots, one very small clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, two 
 tarragon leaves, and a few spoonfuls of stock; let them 
 simmer for half an hour; strain it off, and add coulis ; 
 squeeze in a lemon ; season with pepper and salt, a little 
 Cayenne pepper, and sugar. 
 
 PurrE or CrLrery.—Slice half a dozen heads of 
 celery, which blanch in plenty of water. Drain them, 
 and put them into a stew-pan with a ladleful of white 
 consommeé (vide ante), and a small piece of ham. Let 
 this boil, and then put it on a back stove to simmer 
 until done. Take out your ham, and put it into a larger 
 sized stew-pan ; then put it on the fire, and stir till well 
 reduced, adding two or three spoonfuls of sauce tournée 
 (vide ante), and alittle cream. Season with pepper and 
 salt, and rub it through a tammy. 
 
 Waitt Consommt, or VEAL Stocx.— Take a 
 knuckle of veal, half a pound of good ham, trimmings 
 of meat, and any veal or poultry which you may have; 
 put them in your stock-pot to stew on a gentle fire, 
 and moisten them with a ladleful of common broth ; 
 add a bunch of parsley and green onions: let these 
 sweat thoroughly. If, on piercing the meat with a 
 knife, no blood follow, it is heated through ; fill up 
 with boiling broth, and after four hours’ gentle boiling 
 this stock will be fit for making sauces, or stocks of 
 poultry or game. By being too long on the fire the 
 flavour of the stock degenerates, becomes strong and 
 unpalatable, and it contracts too high a colour. Care- 
 fully remove the fat and scum of all stock, and fill up 
 your pots to avoid too much colour. 
 
 BécHAMELLE Sauce (Maigre).—For Maigre Bécha- 
 melle, boil a quart of milk, quite new ; melt a piece of 
 butter, of the size of an egg, with which mix enough 
 sifted flour to make a white roux: dilute it with a 
 fourth of the milk, and pour in the remainder by inter- 
 vals. When the whole boils, put the béchamel at the 
 corner of the stove, add the red part of a carrot, an 
 onion, a bunch of parsley, a few shalots, thyme, bay- 
 leaf, sweet basil, and a little salt. Let it simmer an 
 
364 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 hour, pass it through the tammy, and reduce it on a 
 strong fire: add, if you think proper, salt, a little nut- 
 meg, and a piece of butter. Pass it through a tammy 
 to serve with fish. It should be of the consistence of 
 thick cream. You may add mushroom parings. 
 
 BECHAMELLE Sauce (Sauce @ la Béchamelle).— 
 Put such a quantity of velouté as may be wanted into a 
 sauce-pan, with a little consomme ; if required, four pints 
 of veloute ; put it upon a quick fire; stir it with care 
 till it is reduced a third; reduce four pints of good 
 cream to two-thirds, and mix it in little by little, and 
 stir it till the whole has reduced a half; this sauce 
 ought to be rather thin ; pass it through a tammy ; put 
 it in a bain-marie to be ready for use. 
 
 SHarp Sauce (Sauce & la Powvrade).—Put in a 
 small stew-pan a few slices of carrot, four shalots, 
 sliced, a sprig of parsley or a little sliced parsley root, 
 half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a clove, half a blade of 
 mace, and about twenty pepper-corns, with a small piece 
 of ham, and a piece of butter as large as a walnut : stir 
 these on the fire till lightly tinged with brown; add 
 half a gill of white vinegar; let this reduce three- 
 fourths ; add half a pint of Espagnole (see ante), and 
 a ragout spoonful of consomme (see ante); stir till 
 boiling. Draw it to the corner of the stove till your 
 herbs are done ; skim well ; add a little pounded white 
 sugar, to counteract any bitterness from the roots, and 
 pass it through a tammy. 
 
 Rogpert Sauce (Sauce Robert).—Cut an onion in 
 small dice, previously remove the skins from between 
 the coats of the onion ; fry it to a nice brown in a little 
 butter, stirring it well ; add two or three spoonfuls of 
 Espagnole, and a little consommé : as soon as it boils, 
 place it on the corner of the stove to clear. When 
 skimmed, serve it with a spoonful of French mustard 
 already mixed, or English mustard made with tarragon 
 vinegar. | 
 
 Sauce au Suprime.—Take two or three ladlefuls of 
 reduced velouté, and put it into a stew-pan, with the 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 365 
 
 same quantity of the consommé of fowls ; reduce it a 
 half ; when ready to serve, put in the size of an egg of 
 butter ; put it upon a brisk fire ; mix it well, and when 
 sufficiently done, not too thick, take it off, and add 
 lemon or verjuice ; vannez it, and serve. 
 
 Sauce TomatTe.—Take a dozen of tomates very ripe, 
 and of a fine red ; take off the stalks; open and take out 
 the seeds, and press them in the hand to take out the 
 water ; put the expressed tomates into a stew-pan, with 
 a bit of butter the size of an egg, a bay-leaf, and a. 
 little thyme ; put it upon a moderate fire ; stir it till 
 it becomes a purée; while it is doing, put in a spoon- 
 ful of Espagnole, or the top of bouillon, called top-pot, 
 which will be better; when it is thus prepared, rub it 
 through a tammy, and put it into a stew-pan with 
 two spoonfuls of Espagnole ; reduce to the consistence 
 of a light bouillie ; put in a little salt, and a small 
 quantity of Cayenne pepper. 
 
 Sauce A LA TartTAre.—Mince one or two shalots 
 very fine, witha little chervil and tarragon; put it 
 into an earthen vessel with mustard, a glass of vinegar, 
 salt and pepper; sprinkle it with oil, and stir it con- 
 stantly ; if it gets too thick, put in a little vinegar; 
 if too salt, put in a little more mustard and oil. 
 
 Herp Sauce (fines Herbes).—Four table-spoonfuls 
 of chopped mushrooms, with lemon-juice squeezed. over 
 them, or they will turn black ; a table-spoonful of chopped 
 parsley ; four shalots, chopped very fine, or a piece of 
 onion. Put in a stew-pan on the fire a piece of butter, 
 as large as an egg, with the onions or shalots; stir a 
 few minutes, put in the parsley; stir again a couple of 
 minutes, with the addition of a bay-leaf, a little pepper, 
 and salt; add your mushrooms, and stir the whole over 
 the fire about ten minutes more. Take out your bay- 
 leaf, and put your fines herbes in a jelly-pot for use. 
 When parsley has been well chopped, to prevent its 
 elotting together, and in order to be able to sprinkle it 
 as you would pepper or salt, put it in the end of a cloth, 
 
366 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 which dip in water, then squeeze out the liquid, and chop 
 it again. 
 
 Savucr Pour LA SALADE.—Put two spoonfuls of made — 
 mustard, and two raw yolks of eggs into a basin; mix — 
 them well up; then add oil, a little at a time, stirring 
 rapidly ; season with salt, very fine ; add more oil, and 
 stir until the spoon will almost stand upright in it: dilute 
 with a spoonful of tarragon vinegar, if approved of, one 
 of chilli vinegar; add common vinegar; and let the 
 whole be of the consistency of very thick cream: you 
 will mix in parsley chopped fine, or a few chives, if ap- 
 proved of. 
 
 Garuic Sauce A LA ProvencaLE (Sauce a [Ail ala 
 Provencale).—Sweat down in a ragotit sauce-pan four 
 cloves of garlic, a bunch of sweet herbs, a pinch of — 
 mignonette, and two spoonfuls of broth. When the 
 whole is reduced to a pulpy state, take out the garlic and 
 the bunch of herbs, then add two large spoonfuls of ve- 
 louté, adding a liaison of three yolks of eggs. After 
 the sauce has boiled for some minutes pass it through a — 
 tammy; and at the moment of serving, mix a little but- 
 ter and the juice of a lemon. 
 
 Frencu Sauce (Sauce a la Francaise).—Put in a 
 stew-pan 4 bain marie, some maigre béchamel sauce 
 (see ante, p. 363). When it is almost boiling, add to it © 
 a clove of garlic, a little scraped nutmeg, and a little — 
 ketchup. When it begins to boil and just before serving, 
 add a little lobster butter to give it a colouring. This 
 is an excellent sauce for fish. It answers perfectly for 
 carp, pike, and salmon, and for entrées of fish generally. 
 Lobsters’ tails and small white mushrooms may be 
 added. 
 
 Cream Sauce (Sauce a la Créme).—Put a quar- — 
 ter of a pound of butter in a stew-pan, a full table- — 
 spoonful of flour, full coffee or tea-spoonful of chopped — 
 parsley and chives which should be washed after 
 they are chopped, a pinch of salt, a little whole pep- 
 per, an entire nutmeg grated; all these ingredients 
 should be put with the butter, then thrown in a middle- 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 867 
 
 sized glass of cream or milk; put your sauce upon the 
 fire, stir it up while it is in the course of boiling and till 
 it boils ; if it is too thick, add more cream. This sauce 
 should boil a quarter of an hour being perpetually stirred. 
 You may use when you have occasion. It is good for 
 turbot, cod-fish, potatoes, &e. 
 
 Wuite Onton Saucer (Sauce a la Purée d’ Oignons 
 Blancs).—Mince twelve onions, put them in a stew-pan 
 with a bit of butter; put the stew-pan on a slow fire, 
 that they may not take any colour; let them simmer ; 
 stir them often with a wooden spoon ; when they yield 
 under it, put in two spoonfuls of velouté, and let them 
 remain cooking ; when they are well reduced, rub them 
 through a tammy, put them again upon the fire; boil two 
 pints of cream, and put it into the purée; add nutmeg, 
 when it has obtained the degree of a good bouillon, and 
 serve, 
 
 Garuic BurtTer (Sauce au Beurre d Ail).—Take 
 two large heads of garlic, beat them with the size of an 
 egg of butter; when well beaten, rub it through a double 
 hair sieve with a wooden spoon; gather it, and use, 
 either with veloute or with reduced Espagnole. 
 
 Cotp Sauce A ta Tarrare, 7. e. to be served cold. 
 —Put in an earthen or China vessel a table-spoonful of 
 sauce Allemande (see ante), one likewise of fine mustard, 
 two yolks of fresh eggs, a little salt, pepper, and grated 
 nutmeg. After having stirred up this mixture well, put 
 in by degrees two large table-spoonfuls of Provence oil, 
 half a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a chopped 
 shalot, and a table-spoonful of tarragon and chopped 
 chervil. 
 
 PorvraDE Sauce (Sauce Poivrade).—Put a bit 
 of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan with two 
 onions, two minced carrots and turnip, cut in slices two 
 shalots, two cloves, a bay leaf, thyme, and basil, add a 
 little lemon peel and whole parsley ; keep turnmg them 
 in the pan till they get a little colour, shake m some 
 flour, and add a glass of red wine, a glass of water, two 
 ‘spoonfuls of good vinegar, two of broth, and a little 
 
368 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 pepper and salt ; simmer over a gentle fire. When it is 
 sweated, add two more table-spoonfuls of stock, and 
 two ladlefuls of Espagnole travaillee. (See Espagnole 
 Travaillée.) After it has boiled some minutes pass 
 through a tammy and serve, adding a moment before a 
 little butter. . 
 
 Sauce Matcre PorvrapE.—Exclude the ham, the 
 broth, the sauce Espagnole, and add the essence of 
 fish, as well as l’Espagnole maigre (which see) and 
 
 ou have a sauce maigre poivrade. 
 
 Mincep Sauce (Sauce Hachée).—Put into a stew- 
 pan a spoonful of blanched hashed shalots, as many 
 mushrooms, and half a spoonful of minced parsley, a 
 little garlic, a fragment of thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, 
 a pinch of white pepper, and of scraped nutmeg; reduce 
 this on the corner of the stove, withdraw the bay-leaf, 
 the thyme, and the cloves; afterwards add two spoonfuls 
 of consommé, and two large spoonfuls of Espagnole 
 travaillée. The whole being sufficiently reduced, you 
 should pour your sauce into a bain marié sauce-pan; at 
 the moment of serving, mix with it a little anchovy but- 
 
 ter, two small ghirkins minced very fine, and a few capers. 
 
 This sauce may be made maigre leaving out the con- 
 sommé and Espagnole, and supplying their places by 
 fish gravy, and maigre Espagnole sauce. 
 
 BECHAMELLE Maicre.—Boil a quart of milk, melt 
 __ the size of an egg of fresh butter, and mix withit sifted flour 
 to make a white roux, which put for some minutes over a 
 slow fire ; mix the milk with it, pouring in only a little at 
 atime ; when it boils put it at the corner of the stove, 
 adding a large carrot, a couple of small onions, a large 
 handful of mushrooms, a bundle of parsley, some shalots, 
 
 thyme, bay leaf, basil, and a little salt ; let it summer for an » 
 
 hour, reduce it afterwards to give it consistency ; add salt 
 (if necessary), nutmeg’, and a good piece of fresh butter, 
 pass it through a tammy, and use it for entrées of fish a 
 la Béchamelle Maigre. 
 
 Caréme describes the process of making a much more 
 expensive maigre Béchamelle, for which a dab and a pound 
 
 
 
 siiienessarate Cree ae 
 
 ee 
 
FRENCH COOKERY: 369 
 
 of butter are to be used, but it is not thought necessary to 
 give this. 
 
 BécuamMeE.; or, White Sauce.—Cut in square pieces, 
 half an inch thick, two pounds of lean veal, half a pound 
 of lean ham, melt in a stew-pan two ounces of butter ; 
 when melted let the whole simmer until it is ready to 
 catch at the bottom (it requires great attention, as if it 
 happen to catch at the bottom of the stew-pan it will 
 spoil the look of your sauce), then add to it three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. When well mixed, add to it three 
 pints of broth or water, a little at a time, that the thick- 
 ening be smooth (for this sauce should be smooth, rich, 
 and delicate), stir it until it boils, put the stew-pan on the 
 - corner of the stove to boil gently for two hours; season it 
 with four cloves, one onion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade 
 of mace, a few mushrooms, and a faggot made of parsley, 
 a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let the sauce reduce 
 to a quart, skim the fat off, and strain it through a 
 tammy. 
 
 To make a BécHamet Sauce, add to a quart of the 
 above a pint of good cream, stir it until it is reduced to a 
 good thickness; a few mushrooms give a good flavour ; 
 ‘strain it through a tammy. 
 
 The process of Careme for making a Beéchamel is 
 much more expensive. He would use two fowls, a noix 
 ne sans noix of veal, one pound of lean ham, and a 
 pottle of mushrooms for this purpose. 
 
 TuickENED Buttrer; or, Beurre Sis.-—Put the 
 yolks of two eggs in a stew-pan, melt a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, without browning it; break the eggs 
 with a wooden spoon, put the butter by degrees to the 
 eggs, set it on a slow fire, add lemon-juice ; use it for 
 every thing that is rolled in or stewed with crumbs of 
 bread —called in French Panures. | 
 
 Poor Man’s Sauce (Sauce au Pauvre Homme). 
 —Take five or six shalots, chop them fine with a little 
 parsley, put them into a stew-pan with a little bouillon 
 juice, or water, and a good spoonful of vinegar, a little 
 salt, and a little large pepper, a small piece of ham, a 
 
 2B 
 
 
 
370 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 piece of bay-leaf, a little thyme and parsley. Simmer 
 till reduced three quarters of a pound. Add two spoon- 
 fuls of Espagnole, and leave on the corner of the stove 
 to clarify; skim, and after well mixing a spoonful of 
 French mustard into the sauce, serve. 
 
 Boren Marinape (Marinade Cuite). — Put a 
 lump of fresh butter, about half a pound, into a stew-pan, 
 four large onions sliced, and four carrots sliced, some 
 parsley in bunches, two bay leaves, a sprig of thyme and 
 basil, four cloves, a large pinch of mignonette, pepper, and 
 as much mace, two cloves of garlic and a few chives, two 
 coffee-spoonfuls of flour ; pass these over a gentle fire, 
 
 htt ai 
 ae ry 
 
 € 
 f 
 
 stirring them with a weescalea spoon. When they begin 4 
 
 to colour add half a bottle of common vinegar, and ten 
 ladlefuls of beef stock or boiling water, with a little salt ; 
 simmer slowly for about three quarters of an hour, and 
 squeeze through a hair tammy. This is made use of for 
 boiling fish, and for cold marinading fillets of beef or 
 mutton. 
 
 Sauce Aza TARTARE.—Mince one or two shalots 
 very fine with a little chervil and tarragon; put it into an 
 earthen vessel with mustard, a small touch of vinegar, 
 salt and pepper; add a little oil, and stir it instantly ; if 
 it gets too thick, put in a little more vinegar—if too salt, 
 put in a little more mustard and oil. 
 
 Marinape Unzsortep (Marinade Cra). —Put in 
 an earthen basin six large carrots and six onions sliced, 
 parsley whole, two cloves of garlic, four bay leaves, some 
 basil, thyme, a handful of salt, a table-spoonful of ground 
 pepper, the same of mace, four bottles of vinegar, and 
 eight of water. This answers for venison, wild boar, and 
 fillets of beef. They may be left in it for seven or eight 
 days. If you have but a day or two in which to mari- 
 nade the articles mentioned, add another bottle of 
 vinegar. 
 
 Brown Essence or Vea (Blond de Veau).—Butter 
 thoroughly the bottom of a middle-sized stew-pan, i: 
 im it some lean ham, a fowl, an under nut, rump, an 
 knuckle of veal, removing the bone from the end; then 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. oF 
 
 add three ladlefuls of beef-stock, two carrots, and two 
 onions; cover the stew-pan and place it over a quick 
 oven, and when the essence is falling to a glaze, pierce 
 the meats with the point of a knife, re-cover the stew-pan 
 and set it again over a slow fire, to draw out the whole 
 of the juices from the veal, and when the glaze becomes 
 of a fine red colour, try it on a knife; then fill it up with 
 beef-stock, and set it to boil slowly for four hours at the 
 corner of the stove, that it may become very clear, then 
 strain it through a napkin into a basin. The blond de 
 veau is useful to colour soups, and to work up the brown 
 sauces; it is also used for the roasts, and to moisten va- 
 _ rious entrées. 
 
 Common Brot, MAIGRE (Grand Bouillon, maigre). 
 —Boil nearly three quarts of dried peas with nearly 
 three quarts of water, a little salt, fresh butter, mignon- 
 ette, pepper, nutmeg, and a bunch of parsley, for four 
 hours, gently, then take it from the fire, and half an hour 
 after run the stock clear through a silk sieve; whilst this 
 stock is boiling, prepare two bunches of carrots, the same 
 of turnips, one bunch of white onions, and six heads of 
 celery ; slice and sweat them off in fresh butter over a 
 moderate fire, stirring them until coloured equally of a fine 
 red; add two whiting’s cut in pieces, the white parts of a 
 bunch of leeks sliced, ten quarts of water, and the stock 
 from the peas; boil these three hours, and pass them 
 afterwards through a silk sieve. Use this stock for the 
 sauces and soups composed of fish or roots, as also for 
 any dishes that are maigre. 
 
 CuHickEN Broru ror THE Sick (Lau de Poulet ra- 
 FSraichissante).—Clean a fine fleshy fowl, and cut each 
 member in two pieces, remove the lungs and blooded parts 
 from the inside; lay the fowl in a small newly-tinned 
 stew-pan, add a quart of water and a pinch of salt, skim 
 it carefully, and boil it ten minutes, add the yellow 
 leaves of a lettuce, boil it again five minutes, and throw 
 in a handful of sorrel, chervil, and beet-leaves, cover the 
 ‘stew-pan from the fire ; a quarter of an hour after strain 
 it through a silk sieve, which should be used expressly 
 
 2B2 ; 
 
 
 
 
 
372 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 for this purpose only, and carefully skim each cup that 
 you serve. Dis . 
 
 Cuicken Brotu (Another mode).—Put a young 
 fowl, cut up as usual, into a small well-tinned stew-pan 
 with two spoonfuls of rice, and two quarts of water ; 
 having skimmed it, add some coriander seed and two 
 pinches of poppy grains; boil it gently for two hours, add 
 six or eight middle-sized river crayfish, and give it fifteen 
 to twenty minutes’ boiling, then throw in a handful of bo- 
 rage leaves, cover it, and take the pan from the fire to 
 infuse for a quarter of an hour, pass it through a silk 
 sieve, and serve it lukewarm, two hours before, and the 
 
 same space after dinner. It is good to correct a diseased 
 
 system of the blood. 
 
 MATERIALS FOR FRYING, O1n, Butter, LArD, BEEF- 
 Suet, &c.—Oil to be used for frying must be new and 
 of the finest quality: the least disagreeable taste is dis- 
 covered when hot, and communicates itself immediately 
 to the articles fried therein; otherwise, the colour it 
 gives is brilliant; its use, therefore, is not to be disdained; 
 it burns less quick than other materials for frying, 
 such as lard, butter, &c. To fry with clarified butter, 
 the butter should be fresh, newly made, and, above all, 
 perfectly free from any milkness; when the butter is bad, 
 it renders the things fried im it uneatable. When a pig 
 is newly killed, the lard, if carefully melted, is good for 
 frying, and gives a fine gold colour to the objects fried in 
 it; but, on the contrary, if in the least rancid it is de- 
 testable, and should not be used. Oil, butter, lard, when 
 not pure, occasion much inconvenience, by frothing up 
 over the fire, and overflowing the pan. The frying from 
 beef-suet melted is unquestionably the best, and preserves 
 the crispness of the articles fried im it the longest. To 
 obtain it good, skim carefully three or four stock pots, in 
 which you have dressed some rumps of beef; when you 
 have not this advantage, chop five pounds of kidney- 
 suet, which should be very fresh; melt it over a very 
 slow fire, adding half a pint of water, and squeeze it 
 through a clean cloth; it may then be used or set away 
 in a clean pan. 
 
 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 373 
 
 Observations.—To make a friture, it should be put 
 over a quick fire, and as soon as a vaporous smoke as- 
 cends it is sufficiently hot; then place it at the corner of 
 the stove to prevent it becoming more hot, as then it will 
 certainly burn. 
 
 WHITE THICKENING FoRVELOUTE, &c. (Roux blanc 
 pour le Velouté).—Put in a middle-sized stew-pan one 
 pound of fresh butter, set it over a slow fire; when it 
 melts, add twelve ounces of finest flour to it (be careful 
 it is not new flour, as it then relaxes in working the 
 sauces); when well mingled, place the roux on some hot 
 ashes, cover it, and every quarter of an hour stir it with 
 a wooden spoon, so as to boil it equally; it must be sim- 
 mered without any interruption; an hour after it has 
 simmered, you may use it, or place it in an earthen vessel 
 slightly buttered. 
 
 BRowN THICKENING FOR /Espaanou (Roux blond 
 pour U Espagnoil).—Mark it as above, but let it simmer 
 for two hours over some slow ashes, that it may gradually 
 become of a rather deep brown-red tint. It may be im- 
 mediately used, or placed in a small earthen vessel co- 
 vered with buttered paper. 
 
 BATTER FOR FRYING, FRENCH MODE (Pate a frire 
 a la Frangaise).—Melt two ounces of fresh butter in 
 two tumblers of warm water, with a little salt, mix it 
 earefully in a basin, with eight ounces of finest flour with 
 a wooden spoon until it becomes a soft and smooth paste. 
 It should be of a certain consistence, and adhere to the 
 spoon when lifted up from the basin; add, towards the 
 conclusion, all the butter which remains on the surface 
 of the water, but not carelessly, so as to mix the flour 
 into a firm paste, and be afterwards obliged to moisten 
 it with water, by which means the thing becomes ropy, 
 and proper effect is not produced in the frying. At the 
 moment of using it add a white and a half of egg whipt, 
 then dip the articles to be fried in this batter, and throw 
 them into the fat or oil according as you want them, tak- 
 ing’ care that the former is properly hot. 
 
 Frencu Savusaces.— The French sausages are supe- 
 
374 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 rior to those of Italy. Throughout France a uniform 
 process is generally followed in making them, as is the ease 
 in Italy; some consist of beef, some of pork, and some of 
 both mixed. It has however been remarked that the best 
 sausages come from those districts where there is a con- 
 siderable consumption of asses’ milk, the young foals of 
 the asses being used as sausage-meat—these are slaugh- 
 tered when about a month or six weeks old. At Lyons, 
 the mixture is hogs’ flesh, asses’ flesh, and a little beef ; 
 at Bordeaux, it is beef and hog im equal proportions, and 
 sometimes beef and pork separately.—From the Maga- 
 zine of Domestic Economy. 
 
 ARLES SausacEs.—The Arles sausages are extremely 
 tender, and have a hammy, sweet, and fragrant taste, that 
 renders them particularly récherche ; they are never 
 smoked, and their coat is always of a very hght colour, @ 
 peculiarity that distinguishes them from the others, which 
 are almost black in general. The Arles sausages are 
 often between two and three feet long ; those of Lyons are 
 about eighteen or twenty inches, whilst those of Bordeaux 
 seldom exceed a foot in length. It must be observed 
 
 that all those sausages which are distinguished by the - 
 
 name of saucissons are to be eaten raw, the pounding and 
 condiments being sufficient to render the meat tender 
 and digestible. All these sawcissons might be made in 
 England in as great perfection as at either of the places 
 above named, provided the materials were of equally 
 good quality.—From the Magazine of Domestic Eco- 
 nomy. 
 
 Frencu Sausages (Manner of making).—The meat 
 is cut to a convenient size, and each piece rubbed with 
 either garlic or shalot, it is then put into a mortar and 
 pounded until it becomes a hard paste, when it is sprinkled 
 with brown sugar and worked up again ; it now receives 
 the following mixture, with which it is again worked: two 
 parts of bay-salt, and one of saltpetre, are well pounded, 
 to them are added some pounded allspice, a little pounded 
 mace, some white pepper, and a small quantity of pow- 
 dered bay-leaf; the meat being now laid upon the table 
 
 Fat S Oe 
 
 
 
 
 
 Pee. ae 
 
 = Ra alate at NIT eee Tilt yr ns 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 375 
 
 and rolled out, the strips of lard are laid upon it length- 
 wise, together with pepper-corns, as in the Italian sau- 
 sages; and in certain kinds of these sausages, pistachio 
 nuts are cut im slices and laid symmetrically, but spar- 
 ingly, im some of the intervals between the strips of 
 bacon, the sausages are then rolled, placed in pickled 
 Sears® tied very tightly at each end, and hung up to 
 
 Preparinc Hune Breer (French mode).—The bone 
 is carefully removed from a rump of beef, which is the 
 best part of the animal for this purpose, after hanging till 
 it becomes tender, it is put into a pan and well rubbed 
 with a pickle composed of a pound of common salt, two 
 ounces of saltpetre, an ounce of sal prunella, and half a 
 pound of coarse brown sugar, all mixed together; it is 
 now covered with parsley, shalots, a sprig of thyme, three 
 bay leaves, a bunch each of marjoram, sweet basil, and 
 winter savory, a pinch or two of coriander seed, a large 
 table-spoonful of juniper berries, and three cloves of 
 garlic; it is turned every day in the brine during ten 
 days, the herbs, berries, seeds, shalots, and garlic, being 
 placed each time on the top of the meat; at the expira- 
 tion of that time it is hung up in the chimney, subject. to 
 the smoke of a wood fire, or otherwise smoked; before it 
 is used it must be soaked for a few hours in cold water. 
 It is dressed in cold water, containing a little vinegar or 
 verjuice, a couple of onions, one of them stuck with 
 cloves, half a nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and 
 is made to simmer, but not boil up until it is done 
 enough ; it is then allowed to cool in the same liquid, and 
 is served up when quite cold, with a fresh garnish of 
 green parsley each time it appears at table. 
 
 Buanc ‘MANGER A LA VANILLE.—Cut half a stick 
 of vanille into small pieces, boil three ounces of sugar 
 to a caramel height, add the vanille to it and leave 
 it to cool, then dissolve it with a quarter of a pint 
 of warm water, and place it on some red ashes to melt, 
 pound half a pound of almonds, directed as in blane 
 manger (squeezing the milk from the almonds), only 
 
 ass | 
 
376 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 moistening them with three quarters of a pint of water, 
 add one ounce of clarified isinglass, put into a anguld 
 placed on ice. 
 
 Brianc Mancer (French method).— Throw into boil: 
 ing water half a pound of sweet almonds and ten bitter, 
 skin, and leave them to soak in a basin of cold water, 
 which whitens them exceedingly, then drain them on a 
 sieve, and rub them on a napkin, pound and moisten 
 them gradually with half a spoonful of water that they 
 may not become oily, when thoroughly pounded, mix 
 them with rather more than a pint of water, adding 
 it by degrees, squeeze them through a napkin or 
 tammy, to force out the milk from the almonds, then 
 add six ounces of pounded sugar, and when it has 
 melted pass the whole again through a tammy, and 
 mix it with rather more than three quarters of an ounce 
 of clarified isinglass (which will take one ounce), a little 
 hotter than lukewarm, that it may perfectly unite with 
 the blanc manger, and pour it into a mould placed on ice. 
 
 To make the blanc manger au rum, add half a tea- 
 cup of old rum, or arrack, or marasquino. 
 
 Ravicorrr 4 1a Upe.— Take a tea-spoonful of 
 ketchup, ditto of cavice, ditto of chill vinegar, ditto of 
 Reading sauce, a lump of butter, the size of an egg, 
 three spoonfuls of common béchamel, a little new cream, 
 salt, and pepper, and a little parsley chopped fine, and 
 blanch very green. 
 
 ANOTHER RaviGoTTE, according to Caréme.— Sweat 
 in a ragoit sauce-pan, two ragotit spoonfuls of common 
 -vinegar, and a pinch of mignonette, when sufficiently 
 reduced, add two spoonfuls of consommé, and two large 
 spoonfuls of sauce Allemande; pass through a tammy, and 
 at the moment of serving, mix shreded chervil, tarragon, 
 and a little fresh butter. Some persons add a little lemon 
 but that is useless. 
 
 Frencu Puppina.—Six ounces of flour, six ounces 
 of butter melted, six ounces of lump sugar, six eggs, a 
 little nutmeg: grated, a little cinnamon, and a. little 
 Jemon-peel grated, all well mixed together, and baked for 
 twenty minutes in small moulds. A wine sauce. 
 
 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. Sat 
 
 BraisEep Turkey (Dinde a la Braise, French fashion). 
 —Cover the bottom of a German stew-pan with slices of 
 bacon, or ham, and of beef, chopped carrots, onions, ce- 
 lery, stuffing herbs, salt, pepper, allspice, and mace ; 
 place the turkey trussed as for boiling on these, and over 
 it a layer of the same materials, cover it close with the 
 lid, and place the pan in the oven, leaving the whole to 
 stand in a state of gentle perspiration, until it is done 
 enough; serve up in its own sauce. Any joint may be 
 cooked thus, and the toughest leg of mutton becomes in 
 this way quite tender. 
 
 Braising requires great attention, and must be tho- 
 roughly done. 
 
 There are braising-pans in which the above and va- 
 rious other articles, such as fricandeaux, sweetbreads, 
 mutton, veal, &c., &c., can be done, and placed to stew, 
 or simmer on the fire. } 
 
 Pigrons A LA CRAPAUDINE A LA BOURGEOISE.— 
 Truss the pigeons with the legs inside, pick and singe 
 them, cut them from end to end without separating 
 them, flatten them by beating on the back, season them, 
 and put them on the gridiron; meantime, boil together a 
 spoonful of minced shalots, three spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 half a glass of water, and a little salt and pepper. As 
 soon as your pigeons are grilled pour this sauce upon 
 them. 
 
 Fowis 4 tA Tartare (Poulets a la Tartare). 
 —Pick well your fowl, turn in the legs, and cut it in 
 two; then take the bones from the back, and beat it with 
 the flat of the kitchen knife; then put it in a stew-pan 
 with clarified butter, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, spice, 
 parsley, and green onions; let it stew softly till it be 
 almost done, then strew some crumbs of bread over it, 
 and. broil it upon the gridiron, over a slow fire, until it 
 attains a fine colour; then serve it up with gravy, and 
 the juice of a lemon over it ; to ascertain if it be done, 
 thrust in your knife. 
 
 Sauce aux Haterettes.—Mince a little parsley, 
 young onions, and mushrooms, together with a little 
 
378 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 butter, into a stew-pan, and fry them slightly; before 
 
 they get too dry, sprinkle on a little flour, and moisten 
 
 with a large spoonful of broth or consommeé; season 
 with salt, pepper, nutmeg, if liked, and small spices, 
 and half of a bay-leaf; reduce it over a brisk fire, with- 
 out skimming off the fat, taking care to stir it till it 
 has acquired the consistence of clear bouillie; then take 
 out the. bay-leaf, and thicken it with two or three yolks 
 of eggs well beaten, and a little bouillon; keep stirring, 
 and pour the sauce over any dish it may be wanted for. 
 This sauce is of nearly universal application; may be 
 served over almost every thing. 
 
 It is used to stick crumbs of bread round whatever you 
 may wish to put in crumbs, instead of butter; it is also 
 used for hatelettes of palates of beef, sweat-breads, fillets 
 of rabbits, &c. 
 
 A Lec or Murron wits Garuic (A Gigot a U Ail). 
 —Should be roasted by a pretty sharp fire; baste and 
 froth it well ; the garlic to be thrown into five different 
 waters, boiling with a little salt, and boiled five minutes 
 ineach. It is then drained, and put into the dripping- 
 pan under the roasting mutton, and basted with it. 
 
 A Lee or Murron Gascon Fasuion (Gigot de 
 Mouton a la Gasconne).—Take a leg of mutton suffi- 
 ciently long kept, stick it with a dozen cloves of garlic, 
 and a dozen of anchovies cut into shreds, spit and roast 
 
 it, and serve with a ragott. of garlic thus prepared; Pick — < 
 
 and clean half a pound of garlic, whiten it, and soften 
 the flavour by half a dozen boilings in different water; 
 when it comes nearly to a boil in the last water, strain it, 
 put it in a stew-pan with five spoonfuls of reduced Es- 
 pagnol, a lump of butter, and a little gravy; sweat it, 
 and serve under your leg of mutton in place of beans. 
 
 Roastep Ham (Jambon @ la Broches).—Pare a 
 Bayonne, Westphalia, or good York or Westmoreland 
 ham on the under side, and cut it quite round to give it 
 a good form; steep it to take out the salt; put it into 
 an earthen vessel with slices of onions, thyme, coriander 
 seeds, carrots, and two bruised bay-leaves; pour over it 
 
 a bottle and a half of Malaga, Madeira, sherry, Bucel- 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY: 379 
 
 las, Teneriffe, or any other Spanish wine, or Portuguese 
 white wine, or Champagne; cover it with a white cloth, 
 and shut it up as close as possible; leave it to marinade 
 in this seasoning twenty-four hours ; spit it and let it 
 cook four hours at a steady slow fire, basting it with the 
 seasoning, and taking care to coat it over with six folds 
 of thick paper; when three hours at the fire, and nearly 
 done, make a hole in the paper, and syringe in the Ma- 
 deira or other wine, stopping up the hole with flour; take 
 off the skin, glaze it, and vannez it; let it take a fine 
 colour. When the ham is taken up to take the skin off, 
 pass the marinade through a gauze search, reduce it to 
 the consistence of sauce, and serve it under the ham. 
 
 To press A Lec or Mutton (French fashion).— 
 Cut all the outer skin from the meat, which you must 
 then well rub with the best olive oil; put it next into a 
 flat pan containing a pint of luke-warm water, vinegar, 
 some thyme, cloves, parsley, sweet basil, three or four 
 bay-leaves, four cloves of garlic, some whole pepper, a 
 little allspice, three or four cloves, and a tea-spoonful of 
 bay-salt. Place the meat so that the under surface may 
 lie in the vinegar, then cover the upper surface with 
 slices of onion; every morning turn the meat, putting 
 the surface covered with onions into the vinegar, and co- 
 vering with the onions the surface which was in the vine- 
 gar the day before. When four days have elapsed, take 
 the meat from the pan, wipe it dry, and hang it up till 
 the next day, when it may be roasted in the same manner 
 that venison is, or basted with the marinade in which it 
 has been. 
 
 ARTICHOKES A LA Baricoute.—Take sufficient of 
 artichokes for your dish, trim away the stalk and half 
 of the leaves; put them in a stew-pan with a little stock 
 or water, an onion, two or three spoonfuls of good oil, 
 a little salt and pepper, and a faggot of sweet herbs; 
 boil these until the sauce is nearly consumed; then fry 
 the artichokes to make them crisp; then place them in 
 a dish with the remainder of the sauce, take out the 
 
 canteen eres 
 
3880 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 choke, colour the leaves in a hot oven, and serve with a 
 sauce of oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. 
 
 A Gigot aux Haricots (Generally called the Ha- 
 ricot de Soissons).—The dried white kidney beans 
 should be soaked all night in cold water with a little salt. 
 Set them over a slow fire and let them boil till tender, 
 which you may know by pricking one or two with a 
 needle. Pour ina little cold water to check the boiling, 
 and let the beans boil up again. ‘They will soon begin 
 to crack, when they should be immediately taken off the 
 fire and drained in a colander. Set your leg of mutton 
 to roast, when nearly half done put the beans into a 
 dripping-pan underneath. When the meat is done drain 
 the fat from the beans and lay them in a dish round the 
 mutton, having previously seasoned them with salt and 
 pepper. Pour the gravy over the beans and send up to 
 table. The French generally insert a single clove of 
 garlic in the knuckle of the leg of mutton before it is 
 put down to roast. This greatly improves the flavour. 
 
 FRENCH PASTRY. 
 
 _ Fine Paste ror Tourtes (Pate fine pour Tourtes 
 d’ Entrée) Is the same as for paste for timbales but 
 you should use two ounces more of butter; it should be 
 made something softer. This paste does for tourtes, for 
 either for first or second course. : 
 
 Haur-Purr Paste (Pate brisée).—Three-quarters of 
 a pound of flour should be sifted, then make a fountain 
 (a hollow in the centre), put within it a quarter of an 
 ounce of salt, two whole eggs, a quarter of a pint of 
 water, and ten ounces of butter; proceed as for puff- 
 paste; but this should be somewhat more consistent; 
 the butter should be placed in pieces within it; having 
 rolled it four times, like puff-paste, it has somewhat of 
 the same appearance when baked. 
 
 This paste is particularly used on Twelfth Night. 
 
 Paste ror Hor Pies (Pate &@ dresser pour les 
 Patés Chauds).—Put on your dresser three quarters of a 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 381 
 
 pound of sifted flour, make a fountain, add six ounces of 
 butter (worked with the hand in winter), two yolks of 
 eggs, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and half a tea-cup 
 of water. Mix first the butter, salt, eggs, and water 
 together, then the flour, rubbing the whole together with 
 the hands and dresser, forming it into one equally smooth 
 and firm body. Work this one turn more, roll it out 
 the first time as far as you can without pressing the 
 butter through the paste, then fold it in three layers, and 
 roll it out in lengths as before, and this to be done as 
 often as necessary, because having more butter in it than 
 for cold pies, it is less easy to blend in summer. In 
 order to this end the water should be iced. If, not- 
 withstanding, the paste becomes heated, cut it in thin 
 slices, moisten them slightly, work them strongly toge- 
 ther, and let it remain some time before using it. This 
 paste is used for custards of fruit and cream. 
 
 Paste For TimBares (Pate fine for Timbales).— 
 To three quarters of a pound of flour add eight ounces 
 of butter, two yolks of eggs, a quarter of an ounce of 
 salt, and finish as above. 
 
 Corp Frencn Prs,—Put sausage meat, ham, and 
 veal together for stuffing. Bone the goose, fowl, or 
 turkey, fill the bottom of the dish with ham and stuffing, 
 then veal over that and some ham; a cup full of rich 
 gravy, well seasoned, with a raised crust. 
 
 Dario.es (so called from the name of the moulds). 
 —Make a bit of half puff paste, sheet the moulds ; first 
 butter them and dust them with flour, and half bake the 
 paste, then fill them with custard made as follows :— put 
 a pint of milk, a pint of cream, a little cinnamon, and the 
 peeling of a lemon, into a stew-pan ; set it on to boil for 
 a quarter of an hour, then let it cool ; beat up the yolks 
 of eight eggs in a basin, sweeten it with sifted loaf sugar, 
 pour the cream, &c. in a little at a time, then mix it 
 well, and strain it through a hair sieve; set it again on 
 the fire, and when it begins to thicken fill the darioles; 
 and put them in the oven for ten minutes. When done, 
 
882 «FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 turn them out, sift a little fine sugar over them, and glaze 
 them with a salamander. — 
 
 Murton Kipneys (Rognons de Mouton).—Skinand 
 split a dozen kidneys, opposite the nerve, without wholly 
 separating them; pin them out with wooden skewers to 
 keep them open, rub them with a little salt and pepper, 
 dip them in melted butter, and broil first the inside, that, 
 when turned on the grill to be finished, the gravy may 
 be preserved; dish on a hot plate, with a very little 
 chopped blanched parsley and butter dropped over each. 
 Kidneys are also dressed on vin de Champagne sauté as a 
 mince, stewing the mince in butter, draining and serving 
 it in a well-reduced Italian brown sauce, with a very 
 little Champagne, or any white wine. 
 
 QUENELLE OF Fow. (farce & quenelle de Volaille). 
 —Put in a stew-pan the crumb of a French loaf, moisten 
 with two spoonfuls of consommé of fowl, two of veloute, 
 and two spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms; put the pan 
 over a slow fire as soon as the panade boils, stir it con- 
 stantly with a wooden spoon till dry enough to be re- 
 moved from the bottom of the pan, and form a firm but 
 yielding and smooth paste; mix two yolks of eggs with 
 it (these may be omitted), spread it on a dish, and cover 
 it with a sheet of buttered paper, take the fillets of two 
 fine fleshy fowls, and having taken off the skin and nerves, 
 pound them, rub the meat through a tammy, and lay it 
 on a dish, trim a calf’s udder which has been boiled and 
 become cold, pound and pass it through a tammy, pound 
 the panade and rub that through also; weigh four ounces 
 of panade, ten ounces of fowl, and six ounces of udder (or 
 
 butter), pound the udder and panade together fora quarter 
 
 of an hour, then add the fowl, pound the whole for twenty 
 minutes, add nearly half an ounce of seasoning spice, 
 three spoonfuls of sweet herbs, a pinch of grated nut- 
 meg, and two yolks of eggs, pound these for five mi- 
 nutes, then add two more yolks, and a ragout-spoonful — 
 of velouté or béchamel, cold; pound well for five minutes 
 then put the force-meat into a basin and fix it on the 
 ice; but, to try if it be firm enough, make a small que- 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 383 
 
 nelle, and boil it for a few minutes in some stock: when 
 taken up, this quenelle should be tender to the touch, and 
 when cut in two should appear smooth, and be rich and 
 agreeable to the palate; if too delicate, add the yolk of 
 another egg, and if too firm, a little more velouté; to 
 make use of this farce, butter slightly two sauté plates, 
 or else stew-pan covers, have near you a stew-pan of 
 boiling water, place in it a silver table-spoon, fill another 
 spoon with the force-meat, and spread it smoothly over 
 with a knife, giving it the form of an egg cut in half 
 lengthwise, rendering them smooth by dipping the knife 
 in the hot water, lift the quenelle from the spoon, by 
 passing the other, which was lying in the hot water un- 
 der it, and removing it to the sauté plates; be careful 
 not to disarrange them in this proceeding; the quenelles 
 may be formed also in small tea-spoons, or ragout-spoons, 
 these last servimg to garnish removes: they are formed 
 also by rolling them out with flour on a dresser, likewise 
 of the size of pistachio nuts, to fill small vol-au-vents, 
 casserolettes of rice, or small croustades \of nouilles, &e. 
 When ready to serve, pour some boiling stock into the 
 saute plates, and when the quenelles boil, cover and let 
 them go gently; at the moment of using them, drain 
 them on a napkin, and place them in a pate chaud, vol- 
 au-vent, or casserole, or dish them according to fancy 
 ona dish; mask them with a ragoit a la Financiere, if 
 in a pate chaud, with a ragoit a la Toulouse, if ina 
 vol-au-vent, or casserole, and if in a dish with a good 
 consomme of fowl. Quenelles of veal, turkey, pheasant, 
 partridge, and other game or fish, are thus prepared. 
 Fow.xs with Trurrurs (Poulets a la Périgueux).— 
 Prepare two fine white fat fowls, they must be drawn by 
 the craw; clean two pounds of truffles, make the small ones 
 as equal as possible, put in a pound of rasped lard into 
 a stew-pan, put in the truffles with their parings, which 
 have been minced, salt, large pepper, fine spices, nut- 
 meg, and a bay-leaf, which must be taken out after- 
 wards; let them simmer half an hour upon a slow fire, 
 
 a a a a ee RS 
 
3884 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 shaking them carefully, take them off the fire, and let 
 them cool; put the fowls upon a cloth, and stuff them 
 equally at the breast with the trufiles, truss them on 
 poulets d’entree, skewer them, cover them with slices of 
 lard and two or three sheets of paper, tie them upon the 
 spit, and give them nearly five quarters of an hour; 
 take off the paper, dish them, and serve upon a sauce a 
 la Perigueux. 
 
 Carr’s Liver, wiTtH FINE HeErss (Fove de Veau 
 aux fines Kerbes’: —Cut a liver into slices an inch 
 thick, form these into the shape of a fan, about two 
 inches broad, dredge them with flour, and put them to 
 fry with onions, mushrooms, parsley, previously shred, 
 and stewed in butter, or in the very best Provence oil, 
 with pepper and salt; fry all this gently till ready, and 
 dust it with more pepper; keep the liver hot, put a little 
 broth or gravy to the herbs to moisten them, and stew 
 for three minutes, and serve very hot, adding if you 
 please, a little of the juice of a lemon. 
 
 VeaL SweeTsreans (fis de Veau a la Dauphine). 
 — Take five sweetbreads, cut off the throats and let them 
 drain, change the water often that they may be very 
 white, give them a slight blanch to make them firm 
 enough to lard, put one over another, cover the bottom 
 of a stew-pan with some parings of veal, onions, and 
 carrots, and line the sides with bacon ; put in the sweet- 
 breads on this foundation, moisten with consommé, and 
 take care the bacon is not over moist; cover with buttered 
 paper, let them boil, put them on a paillasse, 2.e. on a 
 braise or on hot cinders, with fire over, let it be strong 
 enough to give them a fine golden colour, let them cook 
 about three quarters of an hour, drain, glaze, and put 
 them upon a good white endive sauce, four large crusts 
 of bread fried in butter may be added, if there is no 
 glaze some of the stock of the sweetbreads may be re- 
 duced, and passed through a silken tammy. 
 
 A PLAIN FRICASSEE OF CHICKENS (Fricassée des 
 Poulets a la Paysanne).—Singe well two fat white 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY: 389 
 
 chickens ; carve them smoothly with a very sharp knife 
 exactly as at table; wash them in luke-warm water; 
 blanch them over the fire a few minutes to make the 
 flesh brown; plunge them in cold water, and then put 
 them into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter, a 
 faggot of parsley and green onions, and a cupful of 
 trimmed button-mushrooms; when warmed through, and 
 a little tinged, dredge with flour, and add salt, white pep- 
 per, and a little of the liquor they were blanched in; 
 let the fricasseé simmer for a half-hour, or more, if the 
 chickens are large; then lift the chickens into another 
 sauce-pan. Skim off the fat, and reduce the sauce they 
 are cooked in by a quick boil, and strain it over them. 
 When ready to serve, add a thickening of the beat of 
 two ege's with a little cream. 
 
 FricAssfE OF CHICKENS witH Musurooms (F7i- 
 cassée de Poulet aux Champignons).—Cut up two of 
 the common fowl or chickens which are always used for 
 fricassées; chop the legs off above the knee; break the 
 hip bone through the middle, and take it out; pull the 
 flesh down from the thigh bone; cut the pinion off by the 
 second joint, and take out the two bones from the thick 
 part of it; take out the lungs; put the pieces mto a 
 stew-pan with about a pint of water, with a seasoned 
 faggot, a clove, a blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, a 
 handful of mushroom paringss, and an onion sliced; let 
 it boil about eight minutes. Take out the pieces of 
 
 chicken and throw them into cold water; drain them on, 
 
 a cloth; trim them neatly; throw the trimmings into 
 the liquor, which reduce to one-half; skim this well, and 
 pass it through a lawn sieve: put the members of 
 ehicken into another stew-pan with four or five ounces 
 of butter, let them sweat a few minutes, and throw in a 
 spoonful of flour, keep moving the stew-pan to mix the 
 flour, then dilute it with the liquor, let it boil, cover it, 
 and let it stmmer by the side of the stuve, skim it well; 
 put the pieces into another stew-pan, and strain the 
 sauce over them, add two dozen mushrooms, turned and 
 passed in butter; keep the whole hot. To serve, make 
 2c 
 
386 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 it boil, and put in a liaison, or thickening of four yolks 
 of eggs with a little cream, work this over the fire till 
 thick, but do not let it boil; work in a small piece of 
 butter, and season with a little lemon-juice and salt: dish 
 it, and mask with the sauce. 
 
 FrIcAsskE OF CHICKENS A LA PERIGORD (Fricassée 
 de Poulet a la Perigord).—Proceed as in the receipt 
 aux champignons, only use a fat liver in scollops, and 
 truffles, instead of mushrooms; with the point of a knife 
 scrape a small piece of garlic, which has passed through 
 many waters, which work into the sauce. The fillets 
 may be larded with truffles and braised; these are done 
 apart, and dished on the top of the fricassee. 
 
 ENTREES OF BEEF. 
 
 Fitets Micnons oF Breer sAuTés A LA LYONAISE. 
 —Take the inside fillet of a sirloim of beef,and scollop 
 it of about the size of the palm of your hand. Mark 
 them in clarified butter, with a little salt and pepper, in a 
 sauté-pan; when dinner-time is come, sauté them and 
 turn them over; when done on both sides, drain the but- 
 ter and put a little glaze in its stead. Keep stirring the 
 meat in the glaze with a little lemon-juice, and a small 
 bit of fresh butter. Dish it en miroton, and pour the 
 Lyonaise in the sauté-pan with the glaze. When you 
 have mixed that well, put the sauce in the middle of the 
 Jilets mignons, and serve up quite hot. 
 
 BEEFSTEAKS WI1TH Potators, French fashion 
 (Bifteks aux Pommes de Terre).—Take some slices of 
 the middle of the fillet, retaining the fat, or of rump of 
 beef, an inch thick, flatten them, and season them with a 
 little salt, pepper, &c. Dip those slices into a little but- 
 ter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. 
 You must have some parsley chopped very fine, and 
 mixed with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When your 
 beefsteaks are done, put the above ingredients under the 
 steaks, and all round fried potatoes of a fine brown 
 ‘colour. 
 
 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 387 
 
 FInuet or Bersr (Filet de Baeuf Piqué, ala Broche). 
 —Take a nice fillet, from which must be taken the fibrous 
 skin, and any other small nerves, without hurting the ap- 
 pearance of the beef; pare and cut out the points, and 
 let it have only the thickness of two fingers; lard it 
 equally allover. Put it, after it is larded, into a mari- 
 nade or pickle, by pouring over it a little olive oil, salt, 
 pepper, sliced onions, and bay-leaves; after it has been 
 sufficiently marinaded, spit it, which may be done mm 
 various ways, in the form of aserpent, gimblet, or horse- 
 shoe; let it be done before a brisk fire, and serve it with 
 a sauce (hachée or poivrade). 
 
 FILLETs oF BEEF In THEIR JUICE (filets de Beuf 
 Sautés dans leur Glace).—Take off the large end and 
 joint; cut the slices half an inch thick; if the fillet is 
 large, it may be cut into four or fewer slices; if not, 
 flatten them, cut them with a paste cutter the size of 
 the hollow of the hand, dip them in clarified butter ; 
 arrange them in a flat stew-pan; put them upon a brisk 
 fire, and turn them often that they may not lose their 
 juice; when nearly done, drain off the butter, and re- 
 place it with a little reduced stock; turn them often, 
 pressing them down, that they may glaze and take the 
 flavour ; when they are properly glazed, put them upon 
 a dish in the form of a miroton; put into the sauce a 
 spoonful of consommé, to detach the glaze. A bit of 
 butter should, lastly, be poured over the fillets. 
 
 Potatoes turned whilst raw, the size of small onions, 
 which may be done in butter till they have a fine colour, 
 and put into the miroton. 
 
 ENTREES OF VEAL. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS A tL’ ITALIENNE.— Take the best part 
 of a neck of veal; cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, 
 and pare them nicely, powder over a little salt and pep- 
 per, take the yolk of an egg, and with a paste brush rub 
 the cutlets with part of the egg, then dip them first in 
 the bread crumbs, then in melted butter, and afterwards 
 
 . 2c2 
 
388° FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 in the bread crumbs again; give them a good form, and 
 broil them on a slow fire, that they may have a fine eee 
 colour. They should be served with a brown Italienne 
 Espagnole or gravy. 
 
 COTELETTES DE VEAU A LA Marermom oi Whee 
 the cutlets are well pared, take a quarter of a pottle of 
 mushrooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole: 
 very fine, separately, rasp @ little fat bacon, and a smalk 
 bit of butter, and stew these fine herbs on a slow fire.’ 
 
 When they have been stewed for a short time with the 
 
 fine herbs, let them cool; then cut some bacon into the 
 shape of hearts, which ought to be put on each side of 
 the cutlets, to prevent the paper from catching fire; then 
 wrap them well in the paper, rub the paper with oil, and 
 broil them on both sides on a very slow fire. 
 
 FRICANDEAU DE VEAU.--The best part of the veal 
 for this purpose is the thick part of the leg. Take a 
 
 piece of the proper size; flatten it on a clean napkin, and 
 
 pare it level on the surface with one strike of the knife. 
 
 After the upper surface is smooth turn the meat,’ and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 make little incisions in the middle, in order that the sea- 
 
 soning may penetrate. Then lard it very thickly on 
 every side. Now put into a large stew-pan two carrots 
 and a bunch of parsley roots cut into shees, a sprig of 
 
 thyme, and a couple of bay-leaves, two large onions’ 
 quartered, some mace, allspice, and a little salt. Cover. 
 these vegetables with layers of very fat bacon, as lean — 
 
 bacon gives a red colour to the fricandeau. When 
 you have thus well covered the roots, erect a small dome 
 
 in the centre, lay the fricandeau over the bacon, powder: 
 
 a little salt over it, and moisten with a sufficient quantity 
 of broth to cover the roots without reaching the said. fri- 
 eandeau. ‘Then put a great deal of fire on the cover of 
 the stew-pan, keeping very little beneath the stew-pan. 
 
 It should be observed, that the fricandeau being done in. 
 
 this way, retains a good shape, and all its gravy. 
 
 The fricandeau may vary with regard to the shape,. 
 but the flavour is always the same, if it is done properly. 
 If, for instance, a fricandeau is to be served when there 
 
 is a grand party, it is requisite to give it another shape 
 
 Mi as 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 389 
 
 than for a family dinner. Though an expensive dish 
 when served alone, it becomes rather cheap if there is a 
 grand dinner, as veal in abundance is wanted to make 
 the broths and sauces. The noix de veau, besides glaze, 
 will supply a very elegant and good entrée. The frican- 
 ‘deau, when cold, can easily be warmed by putting it into 
 a basin, and setting that in a stew-pan of boiling water. 
 
 BLANQUETTES DE VEAU.— When a shoulder has been 
 served roasted, cut off the meat in pieces, and flatten 
 with the blade of the knife; pare and take off the brown 
 skin and mince it; reduce some veloute and put in the 
 veal, but do not let it boil; thicken with as many yolks 
 of eggs as are necessary ; add lemon, and a little bit of 
 butter. Parsley and young onions minced may be also 
 added. Then serve. 
 
 Veat CuTteTs aux Fines Herpes. — Sauté the 
 eutlets rather thinner than usual, in a deep sauté-pan, 
 with chopped mushrooms, a little shalot, a little parsley, 
 half a bay-leaf, and a small clove of garlic. Set them 
 on both sides; drain the butter from them; take out the 
 garlic and bay-leaf, and cover them with a sauce tour- 
 née. When done, put them on a strong stove to reduce 
 the sauce rather thick; finish with a little butter, lemon- 
 juice, and Cayenne. - 
 
 Ris pE VEAvu A LA DAvPHINE.—Pare the sinews and 
 the fat; throw them into warm water to draw out the 
 blood, and make them as white as possible... When tho- 
 roughly discharged of the blood, blanch them a little mn 
 boiling water to make them firm, so that you may lard 
 them with greater facility. When larded, rub a stew- 
 pan all over with butter, cut a few carrots and onions 
 over the butter ; cover this with some fat bacon, lay the 
 sweetbreads over the bacon, powder them over with salt, 
 and stew them with a great deal of fire on the top, and 
 very little beneath. When they are of a fine brown, 
 cover them with a round of paper, and lessen the fire on 
 the top. If they are large, it will require three-quarters 
 of an hour to do them. . 
 
390 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 ENTREES OF MUTTON, LAMB, AND PORK. 
 
 COTELETTES DE Mouton A LA Sousise. — Divide 
 your cutlets taken from the neck ; flatten them; cut 
 away nearly all the fat; leaving an inch at the end of 
 the rib bone bare; scrape the inside of the bone quite 
 clean with the back of the knife; cut away the nerve 
 which surrounds the fleshy part of the cutlet; put them 
 into a sauté-pan, masked with a little clarified butter ; 
 season with pepper and salt, and pour some butter over 
 them; cover with a sheet of paper: for use, sauté them 
 over a sharp fire, turn them, and drain the butter from 
 them ; add some thin light glaze ; sauté the cutlets in 
 this ; dish them, and pour in the centre and round the 
 sides @ soubise sauce.—(See Sauces.) , 
 
 COTELETTES p’AGNEAU PANEES.—Take a carrée or 
 ribs of lamb ; cut it in cutlets ; melt a little butter in 
 a sauté-pan, putin the cutlets, strew im a little salt ; do 
 them without browning the butter; drain and let the 
 butter cool ; then mix in two yolks of eggs ; dip im the 
 cutlets on both sides in this anglaise; strew them over 
 with crumbs of bread ; put them upon the grill on a 
 slow fire ; give them a nice colour; serve them dry, or 
 with gravy and lemon-juice; a little pepper may be 
 added. 
 
 COTELETTES A LA Minute.—Take the best part of a 
 neck of mutton that has been kept for a while. Cut the 
 chops one by one, and pare them as nicely as you can. 
 Season them with pepper and salt, dip them imto some 
 melted butter, and broil them over a brisk fire. Serve 
 up with a very strong gravy of veal, well seasoned. Ob- 
 serve that cutlets 4-la-minute, to be good, must not be 
 too much trimmed, and you must leave a little fat to 
 them; they are dipped in butter to prevent them from 
 drying and keep the gravy in it. 
 
 COTELETTES DE Mouton av Naturent.—Take the 
 ribs of mutton, which the French call carrée; cut the cut- 
 lets equally in two ribs, if it is large divide them, cut 
 them from side to side, and separate them with the 
 
 stn 
 ie 
 
 Oe eo ee 
 
 ee ores, (a 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 391 
 
 hatchet; take off the back bone, and from the fillet side, 
 take off the skin, and the nerves that cover them, flatten 
 them a little, and pare them anew; scrape the inside 
 with the back of the knife, cut the end of the bone, take 
 off the flesh at the point of the bone, and clear it nearly 
 half an inch; melt some butter, dip in the cutlets, and 
 put them upon the gridiron ; turn them often, that the 
 juice may not be lost; serve them over a clear juice. 
 
 Rognons DE MovTons AU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE OU A 
 L ITALIENNE.—Skin fifteen kidneys, and mince them; put 
 them into a stew-pan with the size of an egg of butter; 
 do them upon a brisk fire till they are hardened; drain 
 them, and put them into an Italian sauce, with half a 
 glass of Champagne, which has been reduced nearly to 
 glaze ; finish by shaking them in this sauce without al- 
 lowing them to boil. 
 
 COTELETTES DE Porc, Sauce Rosert. — Cut the 
 cutlets from a neck of pork ; cut away the chine bone, 
 trim away part of the fat, and scrape the bone very clean; 
 lay them on a dish with oil, parsley, and onion ; when 
 they have been in this marinade a few hours broil them; 
 rub them in a little glaze; dish them en miroton, with a 
 sauce Robert in the middle and round them. — (See 
 Sauces.) 
 
 ENTREES OF GAME. 
 
 PerpDRIxX A LA CrAPAUDINE.—Cut off the claws, 
 after having emptied and picked the birds ; make a hole 
 below the joint of the leg ; truss the leg inside of the 
 body; singe the birds over the flame till the flesh gets 
 firm ; pinch the breast with your left hand ; scollop the 
 breasts without quite reaching the skin; turn the flesh 
 over on the table ; beat the bird flat ; dust it with a little 
 salt and pepper ; then dip it twice into clarified butter 
 and crumbs of bread; broil it, and send it up with an 
 Italienne, or essence of game. 
 
 SALMI DE PERDREAUX.—Prepare three partridges, 
 barb and roast them; let them be under-done ; when 
 cold, cut them in pieces, take off the skin, pare and 
 
392 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 arrange them in a stew-pan, with a little consomme ; 
 put them upon hot cinders ; do not let them boil imme- 
 diately; add six shalots and a little lemon-peel, also four 
 large spoonfuls of reduced Espagnole ; let it reduce half ; 
 -pass the sauce through a tammy, drain the partridges, 
 dish them with crusts of fried bread between; sauce, and 
 squeeze over them a little lemon-juice. 
 
 Fituets or Hare en Cuevrevit (Filet de Lievre en 
 Chevreuil).—Take the fillets of three hares, according 
 to the size of your dish; detach the fillets, and lard them 
 with bacon cut very equally ; then put them into a deep 
 vessel, with salt and pepper, a little parsley, two onions 
 cut into slices, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, a glass of 
 vinegar, and half a glass of water. Let all this be 
 marinaded for a couple of days, and then drain the fillets, 
 and mark (see terms of art) them in a sauté-pan, with a 
 little butter; bake them under-done, and glaze them with 
 alight glaze, as they are always dark enough. Send 
 them up with a poivrade under. 
 
 Lees or Ragsrts ALA Marntenon ( Cuissesde Lapins 
 a la Maintenon).—Bone the legs of the rabbits. Have 
 ready some sweated herbs, the same as for Maintenon 
 cutlets, with a little rasped bacon, salt, pepper, spices, 
 &c. Stew the legs in those herbs till they are done 
 through. Let them cool. When cold, cut slips of paper 
 of the size of the legs, or they may be a little larger. 
 Then take small layers of. bacon, lay one on the paper, 
 and the leg over the bacon ; then a little seasoning, and 
 another layer of bacon ; wrap the whole in the paper ; 
 which is to be plaited equally all round with the back of 
 the blade of the knife. Then broil them over a slow 
 fire, and send up hot. They require no other sauce but 
 the seasoning: of the herbs inside. 
 
 Fintets or Fat Cuicxen, at’ Suprime (filet de 
 Volaille, au Supréme).—Take three small fat fowls, 
 very white; clean and pick them well, scald the legs in 
 boiling water; singe the chickens over the flame of a 
 stove, then cut the fillets from the breast; flatten and 
 trim the six largest fillets; take six small ones, and make 
 
 
 
 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 393 
 
 three of them by sticking two together; lay them in a 
 saute-pan, and cover them with melted butter and finely- 
 powdered salt. Just at dinner-time put the sauté-pan 
 on the stove, and sauté them on both sides; when they 
 are firm, they are done; drain the butter, but preserve 
 the gravy at the bottom of the pan; add to it three 
 spoonfuls of bechamel well seasoned, and move the pan 
 over the fire without letting the sauce boil. The fillets 
 will not be good if they are allowed to have the least 
 boil. Dress the nine fillets with a bit of bread fried of a 
 nice colour between each fillet, and pour the sauce over 
 them, but not on the fried bread, as that must-be crisp. 
 
 Fricasske oF Fowis (fricassée de Poulets a ta 
 Chevaliére).—Take two fine fat fowls, and cook them as 
 above, putting aside the wings, which ought to be larded; 
 take off the skin, and uncover the ends of the bones, 
 polishing them; if there is fresh truffle, garnish two 
 wings with it; melt some butter in a tart-pan, put in the 
 four wings, strew a little salt: over, cover with buttered 
 paper, and put them into an oven. The fricassée being 
 prepared as in the last receipt, dish and sauce it, putting 
 the wing's over in the form of a cross; after glazing them, 
 between each lay a large craw-fish, and a truffle upon the 
 top to crown the entrée. 
 
 PouLeTs A 1A PaysANNE.—Cut up two fowls as fora 
 fricassée; put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, into a 
 stew-pan, and four spoonfuls of olive-oil; pass it over a 
 quick fire; give them a good colour; season with salt and 
 pepper; when half done, add two sliced carrots, four 
 onions cut in rings, and a few branches of parsley; pass 
 them altogether; and when the roots are coloured, moisten 
 the paysanne with six large spoonfuls of Espagnole ; 
 ‘Shake it; let it simmer softly over cinders for a quarter 
 -of an hour; take care it does not stick. 
 
 ENTREMETS. 
 
 Tournres GLAzED.—Cut a dozen turnips in the form 
 of pears ; blanch and drain them; butter the bottom of a 
 -stew-pan, on which they may all lie; moisten them with 
 good broth ; add a little pounded sugar, a little salt, and 
 
 
 
394 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 a piece of cinnamon ; let them boil; cover them with a 
 round of buttered paper, and put on the lid; put them on 
 a back stove; when done, uncover them; reduce them to 
 glaze; dish them, with a fork; cut tails from a whisk, 
 and stick them in; put a little good broth into the stew- 
 pan to detach the glaze; take out the cinnamon, and 
 sauce the turnips with glaze. 
 
 Turnies with Sucar (lVavets au Sucre).—Choose 
 twelve or fifteen turnips of an equal size, and form them 
 into pears ; blanch, drain, and butter the bottom of a 
 stew-pan that will hold them separated ; arrange them ; 
 add a little good soup, a little sugar, salt, and a bit of 
 cinnamon ; let them boil; cover them with buttered pa- 
 per; put them upon the paillasse of the furnace, with 
 fire under and over; when enough, uncover them and let 
 them come to a jelly; dress them upon a dish with a 
 fork, and put in little twigs for stalks; a little good soup 
 into a stew-pan to detach the jelly; then take out the 
 cinnamon. Sauce them as if it were a compéte. 
 
 CAULIFLOWER WITH BuTTEeR Sauce (Chouafleurs, 
 Sauce au Beurre).—Take two heads of cauliflowers ; 
 arrange them ; take off all the leaves, then throw them 
 into fresh water ; wash them well; take care there are 
 no worms; put them into a pot with a little salt, worked 
 butter, and juice of lemon; put a round of buttered pa- 
 per, and set them to simmer upon the corner of the fur- 
 nace, stove, or grate; take care not to do them too 
 much; drain, and dish them; pour over them a sauce au 
 beurre, and serve them with a sauce-boat of the same 
 sauce. 
 
 TRUFFLES STEWED IN CHAMPAGNE ( Truffles au Vin 
 de Champagne).—Thoroughly wash and clean a dozen 
 fine truffles; bottom a stew-pan with slices of bacon fat; 
 care must be taken that the truffles are free from a musky 
 flavour; put them in a stew-pan; with salt, a bay leaf, a sea- 
 soned faggot, some green onions, a little garlic, and a little 
 thyme ; add reduction from a fricandeau, or a braise for 
 tendons, two slices of ham, and half a bottle of Cham- 
 pagne; cover with a round of buttered paper and the lid : 
 let them boil, and put them on a back stove, with fire 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 395 
 
 over and under, to simmer an hour. Serve them ina 
 napkin. 
 
 MusHrooms A LA LANGUEDOCIENNE (Champignons 
 @ la Languedocienne).— Take a dozen fine large mush- 
 rooms; cut the stalks off very short; take off the skin; put 
 the mushrooms in a sauté-pan, the tails upwards, with a 
 little oil; sprinkle them with fine salt, coarse pepper, a 
 little grated nutmeg, parsley, and green onion chopped ; 
 sprinkle them with a little oil; do not turn them; when 
 done dish, and serve them hot. 
 
 PLAIN OMELETTE (Omelette).—Break half a dozen 
 eggs in a basin; season with salt; add a little water ; 
 beat them up well; melt in a frying-pan a piece of but- 
 ter as large as a walnut; do not let it be brown; pour m 
 the omelette, beating it still; place the pan over a clear 
 sharp fire ; expose the sides more than the middle of the 
 pan to the heat, shaking it to and fro, that it may not 
 burn; when nearly done, put/a small piece of butter be- 
 tween the omelette and the pan, fold the omelette, and 
 when nicely coloured, turn it on the dish, and serve. 
 
 OMELETTE WITH Fine Herps (Omelette aux Fines 
 Herbes).—Proceed as above; with the addition of pep- 
 per and a table-spoonful of fine herbs, an ounce of butter 
 broken in small pieces, and a cup of cream; dish it, and 
 pour a little brown sauce round the edge.—(See Sauces.) 
 
 SPINACH Au ConsomMs (Epinards au Consomme ).— 
 Take particular care, when the spinach is picked, that no 
 stalks or weeds are left amongst it. It must be washed 
 several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil 
 some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float 
 with ease. Put a great deal of salt, that it may pre- 
 serve its green colour. Press it down frequently with a 
 * wooden spoon, that it may be done equally. When it 
 has had a few boils, try whether it can be squeezed 
 easily between your two fingers; then without loss of 
 time, put it into a colander to drain the water. Next 
 throw it into a great quantity of cold water to keep it 
 green. When it is quite cold, make it into balls and 
 
896 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 queeze it well. Then spread it on the table with your 
 knife, to ascertain that no improper substance is left 
 among it. Chop it very fine; put a good piece of butter 
 into a stew-pan, and lay the spinach over the butter. 
 Let it dry over a gentle fire, and dredge it with a spoon- 
 ful of flour, moistening with a few spoonfuls of con- 
 somme; let it stew briskly, that it may not turn yellow. 
 Make it rich with a small piece of glaze. Some people 
 like nutmeg; in that case, you may grate a little 
 into it. 
 
 _ OMELETTE (Omelette souffiée).— Separate the whites 
 cand yolks of six eggs; put to them two spoonfuls of 
 sugar, a little orange-flower water, or spirit of lemons, 
 work these well together, as for biscuit; whip the whites 
 till they are very firm, mix them saath the yolks; put 
 into the frying-pan a small bit of butter, let it melt, 
 that the pan may be buttered throughout; put in the 
 omelette, set it upon a slow fire, and take care that it 
 does not burn; turn it out upon the dish it is to be 
 served in; glaze it, by throwing sugar over it, put it 
 into the oven; when it has risen, glaze it again, and 
 serve. 
 
 . OmeLETTE SourrLke (Another receipt). —Break six 
 eggs, put the whites into one pan, and the yolks into 
 another, rasp a little lemon-peel or orange flowers, beat 
 the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, and next beat 
 the whites well en neige, and mix them with the yolks 
 lightly, then put a piece of butter into an omelette-pan 
 on the fire; when the butter is melted pour the omelette 
 into the pan; when it is firm enough on one side to hold 
 the liquid part, turn it over on the dish you. send up, 
 then bake it in an oven; when it is well raised, glaze it 
 and send it up immediately, for it would soon fall. - 
 Mind it must be covered hermetically with a large fire 
 over it, otherwise it will not rise. To this you may 
 give whatever flavour you think proper; but the plainer 
 the better, when served very hot, and very high. 
 
 Haricots VERTS A LA FRANcAISE,— Having boiled 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 397 
 
 the beans well, drain and lay them on the fire in a stew- 
 pan to dry all the water; when entirely dry and quite 
 hot, add to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
 httle pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon, keep 
 moving the stew-pan without using a spoon, as that 
 would break the beans. If the butter should not mix 
 well, add half a spoonful of sauce tournée, and send up 
 hot. 
 
 TRUFFLES WITH CHAMPAGNE WINE (Truffles au 
 Vin de Champagne).—Select the best truffles, trim a 
 stew pan with slices of bacon, put the truffles into that 
 stew-pan, with a bunch of parsley and green onions,: 
 with thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, and sweet basil, moisten 
 with a spoonful of good consommé, two glasses of 
 Champagne, some salt and pepper, and if you have a 
 good poéle from fowls, put in some of it, fat and liquid 
 together, set them to boil gently for one hour; let this 
 cool in the stew-pan; when you wish to serve up, warm 
 them again, and drain them in a clean towel. Serve 
 them up in a beautiful napkin, so perfectly white, that 
 it may contrast as strongly as possible with the black of 
 the truffles. 
 ~ Satap oF Fowu (Salade de Poulets a la Reine, 
 according to Caréme’s receipt).— Dress in a poéle (see 
 that article), or roast four fine chickens, and when cold 
 cut them in pieces, as for a fricassée; lay the pieces in a 
 basin, with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, whole parsley 
 washed, a small onion sliced, or a shalot, and cover with 
 a round piece of paper; leave them in this seasoning for 
 some hours; boil eight eggs of the same size hard, 
 and take off the shells; wash six fine lettuces; half an 
 hour before serving, drain the fowl upon a napkin, 
 separating the small pieces of parsley and onions, take 
 the leaves from the lettuces, preserving the hearts very 
 small, cut the leaves small, season them as a salad usually 
 is, and turn them into the dish; lay upon them in a 
 circle the eight thighs of the fowls, in the centre put the 
 wings, upon the top of the thighs lay the rumps and two 
 of the breasts only, surmount these with the fillets, lay- 
 
398 FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 ing’ one the smooth side upwards, and the next the con- 
 trary way or upside down (as four are taken from the 
 _ left, and four from the right side), on these lay the two 
 other breasts; be careful to keep this entrée very neat 
 and very upright; make a border of eggs cut in eight 
 pieces, and between each quarter place upright small 
 hearts of lettuces, each heart cut in four or even six 
 pieces; place half an egg, in which fix upright a heart 
 of lettuce, and place it on the summit of the salad; then 
 mix in a basin a good pinch of chervil and some tarragon 
 leaves, both being chopped and blanched, with salt, pep- 
 per, oil, ravigote vinegar, and a spoonful of aspic jelly, 
 chopped small ; the whole well mingled, pour it over the 
 salad and serve immediately. 
 
 OMELETTES SOUFFLEES (Another receipt after Ca- 
 réme).—Put in a small basin six yolks of eggs, and six 
 ounces of pounded sugar, six bitter macaroons, a good 
 pinch of candied orange flowers pounded, and a grain of 
 salt; when worked for some minutes, whip six whites of 
 eggs, which mingle with the preparation; pour it into 
 an omelette pan, in which are melted two ounces of fresh 
 butter ; when it begins to set, keep it stirrmg, and as it 
 colours fold it together, and turn it out upon a silver 
 dish; fold the ends underneath that it may be more 
 round, and have a better appearance; put it into a mo- 
 derate oven; when it has received a fine yellow tint, sift 
 sugar over it, and glaze with a salamander; serve imme- 
 diately (these omelettes are generally made in a four de 
 campagne); in that case, set the dish on some red cin- 
 ders, and put the top on made lightly hot, but charged 
 as usual, and as soon as the omelette has the desired 
 colour, strew sugar on it, and glaze. 
 
 OMELETTE SOUFFLEE A LA VANILLE (WVearly after 
 Caréme).—-Chop half a stick of vanille, pound it with 
 two ounces of sugar, then sift it through a silk sieve ; 
 put this vanille sugar in a small basin with six yolks of 
 egg’s, six sweet macaroons broken, four ounces of pounded 
 sugar, and a pinch of salt; termimate the operation as 
 above. 
 
FRENCH COOKERY. 899 
 
 OMELETTE SourFLEE av Marasqvuin (After Ca- 
 réme).—Put into a basin the same ingredients as for the 
 first article, Omelette Soufflée, and work them well for 
 some minutes, adding a table-spoonful of true Italian 
 marasquino, and finish as before. Soufflées with the like 
 quantity of rum are good eating; to make a large ome- 
 lette soufflée, use double or triple the quantities. From 
 the consideration that these omelettes can be completed 
 in a quarter of an hour, they are very useful, but a 
 soufflee served in a silver case has the preference. 
 
 CakeE oF Fow1 ( Volaille a la Royale, after Caréme’s 
 receipt).— Take off and perfectly pound the flesh of two 
 poulardes, and mix with it gradually six spoonfuls of 
 béchamel, stir it over a moderate fire, and whilst hot, rub 
 it through a tammy; when again cold, mix with it four 
 spoonfuls of lukewarm aspic, four of good oil, one of 
 tarragon vinegar, salt, and sufficient pepper; it should 
 be well seasoned, without any thing predominating; then 
 pour it into a large plain mould, and fix it in ice; three 
 hours after turn it out upon the dish, decorate it with 
 leaves cut from slices of truffle, pressing them gently 
 round the cake, and surround it with a border of croutons 
 of jelly of two colours. 
 
 VANILLA CusTARD.—Into a quart of new milk put a 
 stick of vanilla cut in pieces, and half a pound of sugar; 
 let them boil a quarter of an hour, take it from the fire, 
 and strain through a tammy. Beat the yolks of eight 
 eggs for two minutes, and the white of one to snow; add 
 together, then pour to the milk, &c., with one hand, and 
 continue to stir with the other; pour it into the dish you 
 are to serve it in; put over the sauce-pan filled with boil- 
 ing water; let it remain till it thickens; strew it with 
 sugar, and brown it with a salamander; let it stand till 
 cold, then serve. 
 
 Syrup ror Compotes.— Put into a sauce-pan a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar with half a glass of water; 
 when it boils well skim it. This quantity is sufficient 
 for a dozen middle-sized apples. 
 
 KIpnEYs AU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE —Cut your kidneys 
 
400. FRENCH COOKERY. 
 
 into thin slices, say a dozen to each, fry them with salt, 
 pepper, parsley, and chives chopped fine; while frying, 
 gently pour Champagne enough to make a sauce ; if you 
 have no Champagne, use white wine; to be served quite 
 hot. 
 
 Onions A LA CrEME.—Boil some button onions in 
 salt and water till tender, drain them, powder them with 
 flour, and put into a sauce-pan with a piece of butter, 
 some pepper, and salt; pour cream over them, and keep 
 turning all the time till they begin to boil, then serve 
 quite hot. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 Eaas (Gtufs a la Tripe).—Take six large onions, 
 skin, wash, and take out the hearts, cut them in rounds, 
 put them into a stew-pan with a little bit of butter, on 
 a slow fire, do not brown them, but let them simmer; 
 when done enough flour them, put in a little milk or. 
 cream, let them cook and reduce, season with salt, pepper, 
 and grated nutmeg; when ready to serve, cut a dozen hard 
 eggs in rounds, put them into the pluche d’oignons, mix. 
 all well together without breaking them, or letting them 
 boil, put in a little more butter, and a little fine hashed 
 parsley; dish it, and send it to table. 
 
 TERMS OF ART. 
 
 Emincé or SALPICON may be made with the same 
 sauce; salpicon is a composition of different ingredients, 
 and émince is all of one sort, of meat, either of fowl or 
 game. 
 
 Marx.—To prepare the meat which is to be dressed 
 in a stewing-pan. 
 
: 
 
 401 
 
 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 
 Fisu Sour; so named from Prince Bagration (Po- 
 tage de Fillets de Poisson a& la Bagration).—Prepare a 
 good consommé, make a quenelle of soles with cray- 
 fish butter, trim in escalopes the fillets of a sole, perch, 
 and carp, and throw a little salt over them; an hour 
 afterwards, wash, drain, and place them in a sauté-plate, 
 mark an essence with the bones and trimmings of the 
 fish, squeeze it through a tammy upon the escalopes of 
 fish, and ,boil them slowly for ten minutes, then pour 
 the liquor from them to the consomme, and clarify it 
 as usual; reduce it one-fifth, then pour it into the tureen 
 upon the escalopes and quenelles poached in consomme, 
 six roes of carp boiled in water with salt, and fifty tails 
 of cray-fish (using the shells for the butter), some chervil 
 blanched, two parsley-roots, cut in small pieces, and 
 stewed in consommé, and the flesh of two lemons, cut in 
 thin slices and blanched, carefully withdrawing the pips. 
 
 Risson Macaroni, from Apicius,a Roman Epi- 
 cure (Potage de Lazanges a l Apicius).—Reduce the 
 consomme one-half, blanch twelve ounces of lazanges 
 with boiling water, a little salt and butter, strain and 
 stew them as the macaroni above; prepare a purée from 
 the breast of a fowl, add to it the lazanges when strained, 
 mixing’ them together; cover the bottom of the tureen 
 with the lazanges, strewing Parmesan cheese over them 
 (using four ounces in the whole), then a layer of large 
 combs and kidneys dressed in consomme, with a plate of 
 truffles, turned like olives, sautéed in butter, with a little 
 glaze of poultry, and mingled with the combs ; then Par- 
 
 2D 
 
402 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 
 mesan, lazanges, Parmesan, combs, kidneys, truffles, and 
 cheese, and terminate as usual. 
 
 VEAL Cutters (Cotelettes de Veau a U Italienne).— 
 Take eight or nine cutlets, rather thin, sprinkle the dres- 
 ser with pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, break two yolks 
 of eggs into a plate, and dilute them with clarified butter, 
 just lukewarm, season with a little pepper, salt, and fines 
 herbes, dip the cutlets in it on both sides, and bread- 
 crumb them, letting them remain in the bread-crumbs. 
 When wanted, broil them on or before a moderate fire. 
 Serve them with a brown Italian sauce composed of a 
 
 chopped shalot, a little butter, or a spoonful of oil, a clove, § 
 
 a blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, a little ham, and a 
 small bay-leaf, when fried a little, add two table-spoon- 
 fuls of mushrooms finely chopped, which must also fry a 
 few minutes. Stir well afew minutes, and serve up under 
 the cutlets. . 
 Sauré oF TrRuFFLES (Jtalian way).—Cut some truf- 
 fles in neat scollops, and fry them in a saute-pan with 
 butter, parsley, chopped shalot, bay-leaf, and a small 
 quantity of garlic, salt, and pepper, moisten with half a 
 glass of white wine, and two spoonfuls of Italian sauce; | 
 let the sauce boil, skim it, and to finish; work in a little 
 very fine olive oil; dish and garnish with flowers of puff- 
 paste, glazed. . 
 Ravioxes Sour, ala Tivoli, so called from the Vil- 
 lage and Fountain of that Name ( Potage de Ravioles a 
 la Tivolt}.—The consomme prepared as before, reduce it 
 one-half, mix eight ounces of flour with a little grated 
 Parmesan cheese, butter, four yolks of eggs, and a little 
 double cream, roll this paste out very thin and square, 
 place upon it, near the edge, an inch from each other, and 
 of the size of a nutmeg, pieces of forcemeat of fowl thus 
 made: chop very fine the flesh of a good fowl poeled, 
 which mix with four yolks of eggs, two ounces of Par- 
 mesan cheese grated, two table-spoonfuls of whipped 
 cream, well drained, and two spoonfuls of spinach pre- 
 pared as for an entremét, and well squeezed, with a little 
 pepper and nutmeg; wet slightly with a brush all round 
 
ITALIAN COOKERY. 403 
 
 the farce, and cover it by turning over it the edge of the 
 sheet beneath, and press it down close that the farce may 
 be secured within, then, with a half-circular paste-cutter 
 
 one inch and three quarters in diameter, cut out the 
 
 ravioles, and lay them on a stew-pan cover, dusted over 
 with flour, and thus use all the farce; blanch them for a 
 second, strain, and let them go slowly for a quarter of an 
 hour in a saute-plate, with four ounces of butter, and 
 one-third of the reduced consommé, adding a little white 
 pepper ; boil four ounces of semolina in one-third of the 
 consommeé, with a little fresh butter, and a pinch of 
 pepper: observe, that it should be very smooth, some- 
 what thick, and with some consistence; cover thinly 
 the bottom of a tureen with it, strew upon it a little 
 Parmesan (four ounces in the whole), then add a layer 
 of the ravioles, Parmesan, a bed of semolina, Parmesan, 
 and so in succession, finishing with Parmesan, upon 
 which pour the liquor from the ravioles, with a little con- 
 somme, and serve the remainder in a silver stew: pan. 
 
 Macaroni Soup, a la Rossini, from the Composer of 
 that name (Potage de Macaroni u la Rossini).— Make a 
 quenelle with the flesh of two partridges, mixing it with 
 a little Parmesan grated, roast two other partridges, 
 and make a purée of game, reduce the consommé, pre- 
 pared as usual, to one-half, adding to it all the carcases 
 of the birds, and a little pepper; blanch twelve ounces of 
 small Naples’ macaroni in boiling water, strain, and 
 simmer it twenty-five minutes in one-half of the reduced 
 consomme, with a little pepper, and four ounces of fresh 
 butter; when serving, poach the small quenelles in con- 
 sommeé, drain them, strain also the macaroni, which mix 
 up with the purée of the partridge prepared for this pur- 
 pose, and kept hot in the bain marie; mask the bottom 
 of the tureen with macaroni, strew upon it some of the 
 Parmesan, add a layer of quenelles, then Parmesan, ma- 
 caroni, Parmesan, and quenelles, and finish the whole as 
 above directed. 
 
 QuENELLES, @ la Juvenal, in honour of the ancient 
 Roman Poet ( Potage de Quenelles a la Juvenal).— Melt 
 
 2Dd2 
 
404 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 in a middle-sized stew-pan two ounces of fresh butter, and 
 add sufficient fine flour to make a light roux, which sweat 
 some minutes over a slow fire, then mingle with it cream 
 enough to make it into a soft paste, which dry over a 
 slow fire for ten minutes, add two ounces of Parmesan 
 grated, six yolks of eggs, a little glaze of poultry, a pinch 
 of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and an essence of 
 spinach passed through a silk sieve to colour the prepa- 
 ration slightly; poach a small piece to try its firmmess 
 and richness, if too firm, add a little consommé, if too 
 delicate. add a yolk of an egg; mould this like que- 
 nelles, in tea-spoons, and range them in a saute-plate, 
 slightly buttered ; twelve or fifteen minutes before serv- 
 ing, poach them in some boiling stock, drain them on a 
 napkin, and put them in a tureen with the soup described 
 above, but suppressing the macaroni; this soup may be 
 served clear, but then the Parmesan must be served on 
 a plate. 
 
 NEAPOLITAN SOUPS—(DES POTAGES A LA NAPO- 
 LITAINE). 
 
 Macaroni Sour, Neapourran Mone ( Potages de 
 Macaroni @ la Napolitaine).—Make fine light coloured 
 consomme (as in Potage a Santé), after five hours’ boil- 
 ing remove the roots and meat, and clarify it with a 
 white of an egg beaten up with some cold consommé ; 
 let. it boil, take off all the fat, and strain through a nap- 
 kin; biacdh in boiling water, with a little salt and butter, 
 twelve ounces of Naples macaroni; strain it on a sieve ; 
 cut it in lengths of an inch, simmer it in the consommé, 
 but let it remain a little frm; when serving, prepare a 
 liaison of twelve eggs passed through a sieve, and mixed 
 with a little double cream, two small pats of butter, six 
 ounces of Parmesan cheese grated, and a little pepper 5 
 mingle with this liaison, by degrees, the consommé, stir- 
 ring’ it with a ragotit-spoon, ‘that in boiling the sou 
 may become perfectly smooth; the boiling should be 
 
ITALIAN COOKERY. 405 
 
 scarcely perceived, or the soup will become curdled. The 
 cheese may be served separately on a plate. 
 
 Macaroni Soup, a la Médicis, from the Italian fa- 
 mily of that name ( Potage de Macaroni a la Médicis).— 
 Prepare the consommé, reduce it one-half, blanch twelve 
 ounces of Naples macaroni, strain, and simmer it twenty- 
 five minutes in one-half of the consomme, with two pats 
 of fresh butter, and a little pepper; when serving, have 
 ready some quenelles of fowl, with cray-fish butter, pre- 
 pared as usual, the tails of a hundred crayfish (the shells 
 of which use for the butter), also the flesh of a fine fowl 
 braized, and chopped very fine, and four ounces of very 
 fresh Parmesan grated: lay a bed of macaroni in the 
 tureen, and strew upon it some Parmesan cheese; then 
 form a layer of the crayfish and chopped fowl; then 
 Parmesan, macaroni, Parmesan, quenelles, Parmesan, 
 and thus continue, finishing with Parmesan ; moisten the 
 whole with the liquor from the macaroni, and a little 
 reduced consommé serving the remainder in a silver 
 casserole. | 
 
 Semouina Sour, from the great painter, Raphael 
 (Potage de Semoule a la Raphael).— Prepare the con- 
 sommeé as usual; half an hour before serving, reduce it 
 one-fourth, and mingle with it eight ounces of large 
 Naples semolina, stirrmg it that it may not be lumpy; 
 twenty minutes after pour it into a soup-pot containing a 
 purée of fowl; mix it, adding four ounces of fresh butter, 
 a little pepper, and a plate of large cocks’-combs; serve 
 with grated cheese on a plate. 
 
 SICILIAN SOUPS—(DES POTAGES SICILIENS). 
 
 Macaront Soup, Srcmiaw Mone (Potage de Maca- 
 roni & la Sicilienne).— Prepare the consomme as for the 
 Potage de Macaroni a la Napolitaine, reduce it one-half; 
 blanch twelve ounces of large Naples macaroni, and boil 
 it twenty-five minutes, slowly, in one-half of the con- 
 sommé, with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little pep- 
 
406 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 
 per; chop the fourth part of a fillet of beef braized or 
 roasted, removing all the fat particles; grate four ounces 
 of fresh Parmesan cheese; when serving, make a layer 
 of the macaroni at the bottom of the tureen, and strew 
 on it a little Parmesan, which again cover with some 
 chopped beef; add Parmesan, macaroni, beef, and thus 
 proceed with the whole, the last layer being Parmesan; 
 and pour over it the liquor from the macaroni, and a 
 little of the reduced consommé, serving the remainder in 
 a silver casserole; add but little consommé, as the soup 
 should remain in layers as they are marked. 
 
 Entry oF Fowts (Italian way).—Order your fowl, 
 and blanch it in a stew-pan, the same as before, except 
 only you use no butter, but oil, and the juice of a lemon, 
 this done spit it, wrapped up in slices of bacon and ham, 
 bound in paper with pack-thread, take a ladleful of good 
 veal gravy, and as much of ham cullis, with the same quan- 
 tity of good broth, two glasses of Champagne or Rhenish 
 wine with half a glassful of good oil, a lemon pared and 
 cut in slices, two onions cut in the same manner, some 
 basil, thyme, two laurel leaves, a little coriander seed 
 pounded, some cloves, and five or six cloves of garlic, 
 put all together over the fire, let it boil to a short sauce, 
 and skim it as much as you can, let there be no oil re- 
 maining, and strain it through a silk strainer; your fowl 
 being done, draw it off the spit, and take off the slices of 
 bacon, dish it up handsomely, pour your sauce over it, 
 and serve it up hot for entry. 
 
 Youne PARTRIDGES WITH TRUFFLES (Italian way). 
 —Take some young partridges, and order them as be- 
 fore; all the difference is. that the others were roasted 
 and these are to be stewed. Take a stew-pan and place 
 in it some slices of veal, ham, and onions, and then put 
 your young partridges in; after which, get the quantity 
 of truffles you think proper, and having peeled and 
 washed them, put them in a stew-pan with the rest, the 
 whole to be seasoned with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, two 
 or three cloves of garlic, a lemon cut im slices, a spoonful 
 of oil, and a glass of Champagne; after which cover 
 
ITALIAN COOKERY. 407 
 
 them with some slices of bacon and veal, and then let 
 
 our young partridges stew with fire under and over, 
 
 ut you must take care they be not too much done, to be 
 well they must be firm. When your young partridges 
 are done enough take them out and keep them hot, then 
 put into the stew-pan they were stewed in half a spoonful 
 of gravy, and take off all the fat, after which strain it 
 through a silk sieve, and put the truffles in the sauce 
 again. Being ready to serve up, dish up your par- 
 tridges with your truffles round them, and your sauce 
 over it, and serve them hot for a first course. These 
 partridges so dressed are very nice. 
 
 Eaas (Lombardy way).— Poach some eggs in _boil- 
 ing water; when they are poached put them in cold 
 water, and take the yolks out of it, and let them not be 
 hard. When the yolks are taken out, fill the whites with 
 a very fine pasted cream, well seasoned, and put some 
 marmalade of apricots in your cream; garnish the bot- 
 tom of a small dish with it, and put your cream upon a 
 stove to let it harden; then powder your eggs with 
 sugar, and put them a moment in the oven; then glaze 
 them with a red-hot iron, and powder them with small 
 sugar-plums, and serve hot. 
 
 Young Turkrys roasteD (Italian way).—Singe 
 your turkey, and draw it as before ; mince together 
 some parsley, chibbol, mushrooms, truffles, the liver, 
 scraped bacon, a bit of butter, some sweet herbs, and all- 
 spice; stuff with them your turkey; then blanch it a 
 little, and put it on the spit as before. Blanch some 
 parsley, chibbol, tarragon, and mint; squeeze all well, 
 and mince it; and put some of it in a stew-pan, with 
 four yolks of eggs, a glass of Champagne, a spoonful of 
 oil, a couple of anchovies, half a lemon cut in dice, a 
 little pounded pepper, some salt, and a couple of rocam- 
 boles cut small: put the whole over the fire with a little 
 cullis ; then take off your turkey, and having taken off 
 the slices, dish it up with your sauce over it; let it be 
 relishing, and serve it up hot. 
 
 Kaas (Italian way, a la Tripe).—Take eggs done 
 
408 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 
 hard, as before, then cut them in four or five slices ; put 
 a little oil in a stew-pan with an onion cut in very thin 
 and small slices, and let it fry two or three times on the 
 stove ; then put your eggs, cut like tripes, in it, and 
 wet them with a little milk; season them itis salt, 
 pepper, a small clove of garlic, and hashed parsley: 
 observe they have a good relish; put a lemon-juice 
 over them when you serve, and let them be hot for a 
 by-dish. 
 
 Ecas (Another Italian way).—Make a syrup with 
 sugar and a little water ; when it is above half-done, take 
 yolks of eggs in a silver-spoon, one after another, and 
 keep them to be done in this syrup. You may thus do 
 as many as you please, keeping your sugar very hot ; 
 you will serve them garnished and covered with pista- 
 chioes, slices of lemon-peel, and orange flower-water, 
 which you must have heated in the rest of your syrup, 
 and lemon-juice above the whole. 
 
 Craw-Fisu (Italian way).—Take some craw-fish, 
 and cut them in two, alive, put them in a stew-pan with 
 a couple of glasses of Champagne, or other white wine, 
 two spoonfuls of good oil, two cloves of garlic, a 
 sprig of sweet basil, with slices of lemon, some salt, — 
 pepper, chibbol, and parsley cut small ; put all this over 
 the fire ; let it boil and be relishing. When done, take 
 out your basil, dish up your craw-fish ‘with their liquor 
 over them, the juice of a lemon and a little essence. 
 This ragont is served up for a dainty dish. If your 
 sauce is not short enough, let it boil more on a brisk 
 fire. 
 
 Lozsters (Italian way).—Take lobsters, and boil 
 them in water with salt, half an hour, on a brisk firé. 
 Take out the flesh both of the body and great claws, 
 and cut it into slices; take a stew-pan, put in it a 
 piece of butter, with some chibbol, parsley, mushrooms, 
 and truffles cut small, toss it up; then put in it your 
 slices, moisten it mike a little gravy, and a glass of 
 Champagne ; season it with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, 
 and a rocambole, let it stew slowly. Let your lobsters 
 
ITALIAN COOKERY. 409 
 
 be relishing, and put a spoonful of good oil, and a 
 lemon-juice into your sauce, thicken it with some cullis, 
 and serve it up hot for a dainty dish. 
 
 Fricasste or Cop (italian way).—Take the sounds 
 of cod according to the size of the dish you will make. 
 Cut them into fillets, and toss them up in oil with an 
 onion cut small, moisten them with a glass of white 
 wine, and a little fish-broth. 
 
 BARBELS DRESSED WITH CHAMPAGNE (Italian way). 
 —Scald, gut, wash, and wipe them dry, leave the liver 
 untouched, flour and fry them in hog’s lard; then put 
 them in a clean stew-pan, with a little gravy and cullis. 
 After a boil or two, take them out to drain. Make 
 an Italian sauce thus :—take a ladleful of cullis, the 
 same quantity of broth, of gravy, and of essence of ham, 
 with a clove of garlic, sweet basil, half a lemon cut in 
 slices, a few pounded coriander-seeds, two glasses of 
 Champagne, and half a glass of good oil. Boil this 
 sauce well, skim off the fat, let it be palatable, then 
 strain it through a silk strainer into a clean stew-pan, 
 put in your fish, let them stew a while; when done, dish 
 them and serve them up hot for a course. 
 
 Iranian Savusaces.—A quantity of lean beef from 
 the buttock, or of lean pork from the thigh or flank, or 
 equal parts of lean beef and pork are cut into small 
 parts and put into a mortar, where they are pounded 
 until they form a single adhering mass. Two parts of 
 bay-salt and one of saltpetre are now mixed together; 
 to these add some pounded allspice, white pepper, and 
 a little pounded bay-leaf. Before this is put into the 
 meat, a clove of garlic, or half a one if there is not 
 much meat, is bruised and well worked in with the mass 
 in the mortar, in which it is not visible, but communi- 
 cates an almost imperceptible flavour. The seasoning is 
 then added and well worked with the pestle into the 
 mass. Strips of fat bacon, not smoked, are next cut the 
 length of the intended sausages. The meat is now 
 taken from the mortar, laid upon a table, and rolled flat 
 
 with a rolling-pin to the thickness of less than half an 
 
410 ITALIAN COOKERY. 
 
 inch, the length being very considerably greater than 
 the breadth. The strips of bacon are now laid length- 
 ways at certain distances, and some whole pepper-corns 
 —but not too many—placed along the surface of the 
 meat, which is then rolled up to about the size of a 
 boy’s wrist, or perhaps a little larger, and put into skins 
 or chitterlings, ready pickled with salt for this purpose. 
 The sausages are then tightly tied with packthread at 
 each end, and hung up to smoke; in about six months 
 they are fit for the table. They are eaten raw. 
 
 
 
411 
 
 SPANISH COOKERY. 
 
 SPANISH SOUPS (DES POTAGES ESPAGNOLS). 
 
 Soup or Caron, SpanisH Mone (Potage de Chapon 
 a l Espagnole).—Put into a stock-pot two pounds of 
 beef, a scrag of mutton, a knuckle of veal, a fowl, a 
 partridge, and some ham blanched ; add two ladlefuls 
 of beef-stock ; skim, and let it reduce to a glaze, but of 
 a light colour; after which put eight ladlefuls of beef- 
 stock ; add three carrots, three onions, three turnips, a 
 bundle of six leeks, and two heads of celery, a quarter 
 of a cabbage blanched and tied up, and a clove of garlic, 
 four cloves, a little mace, and two pinches of whole 
 pepper; boil the stock slowly for five hours; cut in 
 columns (a quarter of an inch square and one inch and 
 a quarter long) twenty young carrots, as many turnips, 
 twelve young leeks, and the white branches of three 
 heads of celery ; blanch these roots, and run them down 
 separately in some consommé; cover with bacon, and 
 dress a fine white capon in a mirepoix, and boil in the 
 stock-pot six small sausages ; then drain them, as also 
 the capon, and add the braise from it to the consommé, 
 which clarify according to the rule, and reduce it one- 
 fifth ; when the capon is cold, cut it in pieces, dividing 
 each fillet into four fillets, leave the wing entire, and 
 cut each thigh into four equal portions; place the whole 
 in the tureen, with the sausages, taking off the skins 
 and dividing them in half; add the roots as above, 
 twenty-four small crusts dried,in the hot closet, and the 
 consommé, which should be of a good flavour. 
 
 Tue Nationau Sour or Spain (Potage National 
 
412 SPANISH COOKERY. 
 
 Espagnol).—Simmer some crusts of bread trimmed as 
 for soup in some stock of the olio; during this time pre- 
 pare some escalopes of fat livers ‘dressed 3 in a mirepoix, 
 and a plate of cocks’ combs and kidneys dressed in the 
 liquor of the mirepoix, as also a dozen of small eggs ; 
 this garniture must be drained’ and dusted with flour; 
 dip them in some eggs beaten up, drain and fry of a 
 fine colour ; the soup being gratined, place upon it the 
 fried garniture, and serve with the remaining Stent 
 separately. 
 
 Or Rick AND QUENELLES FROM A CrTry In SPAIN 
 (Potage de Ris et Quenelles & la Seville).—The con- 
 sommé and six ounces of rice being prepared as in the 
 last article, make a quenelle farce of fowl, which mould 
 in tea-spoons, and lay them gradually in a saute-plate 
 slightly buttered, and poach them ; turn the rice into 
 the tureen, keeping it whole, add the quenelles, a pint 
 of peas dressed a la Frangaise, some chervil blanched, 
 and the consomme quite boiling. 
 
 In imiTATION oF A Sourrite (Potage Souffiée a 
 ? Espagnole).—Add to the stock of the olio, prepared 
 according to the rule, a slight infusion of saffron, pour a 
 little of it on a bed of slices of bread laid in the bottom 
 of the tureen, place on it a second layer of bread, which 
 cover with a spoonful of eggs beaten up and seasoned 
 as if for an omelette; then add another layer of bread, 
 and mask it with stock ; continue to garnish the tureen 
 with a bed of bread, which cover with beaten eggs, and 
 another layer covered with stock; when totally gar- 
 nished put it into a slow oven for nearly half an hour, 
 that the eggs in dressing may give the soup the appear- 
 ance of a soufflée. 
 
 Spaniso Saucre.—Slice four or five onions, put them 
 into a stew-pan with a little vinegar and a half pint of 
 sherry, a small clove of garlic, a chopped truffle (or 
 mushrooms), a little shalot, some ham cut very fine, a 
 bay leaf, a few blades of mace, and as much coulis as 
 requisite ; boil all together very slow for a quarter of an 
 hour, rub it through a tammy, squeeze a lemon, or 
 
SPANISH COOKERY. 413 
 
 orange if to be had, season with pepper and salt, and a 
 little sugar 
 
 PHEASANTS (Spanish way).—Take your pheasants, 
 singe, prick, and draw them; mince the livers with a 
 lump of butter, scraped bacon, champignons, green 
 truffles, if you can get any, some parsley, green onions, 
 pepper, salt, sweet-herbs, and fine spice; mince all well 
 together, and put it into the body of your pheasants, 
 and tie them up at both ends; then blanch them in a 
 stew-pan: they being blanched, put them on the spit, 
 wrapped in slices of bacon, and paper tied round: take 
 a stew-pan, put into it an onion cut into slices, a carrot 
 cut into small bits, with a little oil, give it some tosses 
 over the fire, then moisten it with gravy, good cullis, 
 and a little essence of ham; put in it the half of a lemon 
 cut in slices, four cloves of garlic, a little basil, thyme, 
 a bay-leaf, a little parsley, green onions, and two glasses 
 of white wine. If you have any carcasses of pheasants, 
 pound them, and put them into this sauce ; and if you 
 have none, pound the livers you kept of your pheasants, 
 after you have taken off the gall. When your cullis is 
 well skimmed, let it be of a good taste; now put in 
 your liver pounded, and strain off your cullis. Your 
 pheasants being done, draw them off, take off the slices 
 of bacon, dish them up with your Spanish sauce over 
 them, and serve them up hot for entry. They are also 
 served up cut into pieces. After they are done, cut 
 them, and put them in a stew-pan with your Spanish 
 sauce, and serve them up hot for a small entry, or hors 
 Voeuvre. 
 
 BaxrBets EN MAIGRE, WITH A SPANISH SAUCE,— 
 Put them for a minute into hot water, then gut, wash, 
 and wipe them dry; leave the liver untouched ; strew 
 them with flour; fry them in drawn butter. Being 
 fried, make your sauce thus:—put a couple of onions 
 cut in slices into a stew-pan, with half a carrot and 
 half a parsnip cut in small pieces, add half a glass 
 of oil; let these roots stew a little; moisten them 
 with fish-gravy, or fish-broth; season them with sweet 
 
414 SPANISH COOKERY. 
 
 herbs, fine spice, some slices of lemon, some cloves of 
 garlic, a few coriander seeds, cloves, and a couple of 
 glasses of white wine: let them all boil well together; 
 skim off the fat carefully ; thicken your sauce with fish- 
 cullis, let it be of a good taste; strain it off. Now put 
 your fish into a clean stew-pan, with your cullis over 
 them: let them stew very slowly; then add a glass of 
 Champagne, a chopped rocambole, with the juice of a 
 lemon. Being ready to serve up, dish your fish with 
 their sauce over them; serve them up hot for a course. 
 
 REcEIPT FOR A PucHERO (Spanish way).—Take two 
 pounds of lean beaf, a half pound of thin pork, half a 
 fowl with the gizzard and liver, half a parsnip, carrot, 
 and onion, and a little parsley, and a good quantity 
 of pepper, salt, &c. The meat should be put down, 
 and simmered over a very slow fire, for an hour and 
 a half, then put in your vegetables; boil the whole 
 together for two hours and a half longer. The scum, 
 as it rises, should be skimmed off carefully. The soup 
 should be separated from the meat, which can be served 
 up separately, with rice or macaroni under and over it. 
 Not too much water to be put to the meat: the soup of 
 the consistency of peas-soup. 
 
ar BM wast 
 
 GERMAN COOKERY. 
 
 SoLEs IN THE GERMAN Mope (Soles a la German- 
 ique).-—Prepare two soles as the soles 4 la Colbert; strew 
 on both sides a little salt, an hour after wash, drain, and 
 wipe them dry, lay them on a fish-strainer well buttered, 
 throw pepper and a little nutmeg and three shalots 
 chopped coarsely over them, and mask them with slices 
 ef lemon with the pips taken out; as also two large 
 parsley-roots scraped and cut into fillets, as for the 
 Julienne soup, and some grains of whole white pepper; 
 cover and place fire above and below, but to go gently ; 
 half an hour afterwards observe if the soles are firm to 
 the touch, if so, they are done; dish them up on a nap- 
 kin neatly folded, remove the shalots and a part of the 
 parsley-roots into a small stew-pan, pour over the 
 strainer two spoonfuls of hot consommé to collect the 
 essence of the fish, return it into the stew-pan with the 
 roots, make it boil, and pass it through a tammy, and 
 serve it in a large sauce-boat. These soles are served 
 cold, or lukewarm at the utmost, and the sauce also. 
 
 Roya GerMAN Marteiore (Matelote de Carpe 
 a la Royal Allemande).—Cut in pieces a fine carp 
 as detailed in the article 4 la Germanique, put it into a 
 basin with a little salt, an hour after, disgorge it for ten 
 minutes in cold water; drain and place it in a fish-kettle 
 with an onion, carrot, and a pottle of mushrooms, all 
 sliced; add a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs, two 
 cloves, and a little mace, a bottle of claret, as much 
 consommé, eight ounces of fresh butter, a little salt and 
 pepper; cover and let it boil slowly, and two or three 
 times moisten the fish with its liquor; forty minutes 
 
416 GERMAN COOKERY. 
 
 after, try if it be done enough; take it from the fire, 
 pour away its liquor, strain it through a silk sieve, add 
 a little butter mixed with a spoonful of flour, and when 
 it has boiled, pour it into a stew-pan containing a sauce 
 a la matelotte, in which work four ounces of sugar 
 boiled to a caramel, and again dissolved with a half pint — 
 of red wine, add the juice of two lemons, and the liquor 
 from six pottles of mushrooms. This sauce, both sweet 
 and sour as it is, is German; it should be sufficiently 
 thick and reduced to mask the fish; six roes of carp 
 should be prepared in the usual manner, and a pint of 
 button onions prepared as for a matelote ; then dish the 
 carp by restoring it to its original form; mask it with 
 two-thirds of the sauce, lay on each side of it three 
 groups, one of mushrooms, one of roes, and one of 
 small onions ; surround these with large cray-fish glazed, 
 put a dozen croutons glazed (as for matelotes) on the 
 carp between each slice; serve the remainder of the 
 sauce in a boat. 
 
 Potato SaLtap (German way),—Cut pieces from 
 half a dozen cold boiled potatoes with an inch and half 
 cutter, and then slice them in wafers about a quarter of 
 an inch thick: take a dozen fine flakes of boiled cod, 
 trim them neatly to the size of the potatoes, put the 
 whole into a basin together, and pour over them a salad 
 sauce (See Salad Sauce), rather thick; let them lie in 
 this a couple of hours before serving. Dish them as a 
 pyramid, and mask with the sauce. 
 
 To Maker Saver Krout.—Pick off the outer leaves 
 of some twenty white winter cabbages; then cut the cab- 
 bages up in shreds with a knife. Put your cabbage to fer- 
 ment in a tub, twelve hours at least, and twenty-four at 
 most; press the moisture from it as much as possible. The 
 cabbage may then be put in cylindrical stone jars, or if 
 you have not these, take a cask with the head out, which 
 is generally used in Germany. Mix a few juniper ber- 
 ries or caraway seeds with your cabbage, and put a 
 layer of salt in the bottom of the cask, over which a layer 
 of cabbage four or five inches thick should be placed. 
 
GERMAN COOKERY. 417 
 
 Lay them evenly, and press them as closely down as you 
 can; continue thus to fill the cask within an inch or two, 
 with alternate layers of salt and cabbage. Cover the 
 top with a layer of salt: on this place a wooden lid as 
 large as the head of the tub. Place iron weights on the 
 lid ; and as soon as acrust is formed on the moisture 
 produced from the cabbage, your sauer krout is fit for 
 use. Keep it in a cool airy place. Two pounds of salt 
 is sufficient for twenty cabbages. 
 
 To Dress Saver Krout.—Take the sauer krout 
 from the tub or jar with your hands: squeezing it as dry 
 as you can. Put as much as you want into a large stew- 
 pan with a small knuckle of ham, a lean piece of raw 
 beef, and a good piece of butter. Bacon and an onion 
 stuck with a few cloves may be used if you have no ham. 
 Cover the materials with soft water, and then with but- 
 tered paper. Put them now to boil, and when they 
 reach the boiling point, put them on aback stove to sim- 
 mer, with fire over and under. ‘They will require about 
 four hours gentle simmering. When tender, take out 
 the beef, onion, and ham, and turn the whole on a large 
 sieve over a dish, into which the liquor may fall. Put 
 half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and work a little 
 flour into it to make a thin roux.—(See Sauces.) After 
 you have worked this over the fire a few minutes, dilute 
 it with a sufficient quantity of the liquor from the dish to 
 bring it to a consistency of bechamel; season with pep- 
 per. Throw in your sauer krout, mix it well, and put it 
 in a basin for use. Keep it covered with a sheet of but- 
 tered paper. 
 
 GERMAN Sauce ( Sauce Allemande).—Put in a stew- 
 pan the half of the velouté, and the same quantity of 
 consommé of fowl and mushrooms, but no salt ; place it 
 on a quick fire, stirring it till it boils ; then set it in the 
 corner of the stove, cover, and let it reduce for nearly 
 half an hour; skim, and again put it over a quick fire, 
 stirring it with a wooden spoon, to prevent it catching at 
 the bottom ; and when it becomes thick, and adheres to 
 the spoon, it has attained its point; take the pan from 
 
 2E 
 
418 GERMAN COOKERY. 
 
 the fire, make a liaison with four yolks of eggs, and two 
 spoonfuls of cream; pass it through a tammy; add half 
 an ounce of butter broken in small pieces, and pour it 
 into the velouté, stirring it carefully, that it may min- 
 gle gradually with it. When thus mingled, stir it con- 
 tinually over a slow fire until it boils, and add a little 
 grated nutmeg; pass through a tammy. 
 
 Eeas (German way).—Break eggs whole in a dish, 
 in which butter is made very hot; put a little peas-broth 
 
 to them, and beat two or three yolks of eggs with a little 
 
 milk, and then stram them through a woollen cloth; 
 take away the broth your eggs have boiled in, put your 
 yolks of eggs above it, with rasped cheese, and give them 
 a colour. 
 
 CreLery Sour ror Fast Days.— Melt two ounces of 
 butter, and stir into it three spoonfuls of flour; this must 
 be mixed well, but not browned. Boil, till tender, two 
 heads of celery ; mince them, and stew in a little butter; 
 
 add the mixture of flour and butter, then to the whole — 
 
 pour two quarts of boiling water; season to taste with 
 salt, pepper, and a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley. 
 Give all a boil up, and serve with thin slices of bread 
 fried in butter. ) 
 
419 
 
 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 
 DUTCH SOUPS (DES POTAGES HOLLANDAIS). 
 
 _ Cetrery Sour.—Soak a quarter of a pound of pearl 
 barley in as much cold water as will cover it. The next 
 day, boil your barley in half your quantity of bouillon, 
 with five or six heads of celery cut in pieces. When the 
 celery is tender, and the barley is boiled out, rub it 
 through a sieve, and mix it with the rest of the soup; 
 set it on the fire again, with a little boiled celery sliced, 
 and give it a boil up. Take the yolks of four or five 
 eggs, anda gill of cream; put them in a tureen, and 
 beat them well with a whisk; then pour the soup gently 
 to it, beating it the whole time. Serve with toasted 
 bread. 
 
 Sour or Exxs, Durcu moper (Potage d’ Anguilles 
 
 @ la Hollandaise). Make a consomme as usual, sea- 
 soned with roots, a bundle of leeks, celery, and chervil; 
 cut a middle-sized eel into small lengths, and throw a 
 little sea-salt over it ; an hour after, wash and drain it on 
 a napkin ; put in a stew-pan four ounces of fresh butter, 
 with a pottle of mushrooms, two onions, two carrots, two 
 leeks, and a head of celery, the whole cut small; adda 
 small piece of garlic, bay-leaf, mace, two cloves, and a 
 little pepper ; sweat this seasoning a few seconds over a 
 slow fire, then add two large spoonfuls of consommée ; 
 simmer this essence for an hour, and squeeze it through 
 a tammy upon the eels in a sauté-plate, and boil them 
 in it slowly for twenty minutes; try if they are done 
 enough; then take them up and lay them in the tureen, 
 skim the liquor from them, and strain it through a silk 
 sieve into a purée of sorrel, made thus: stew the fourth 
 part of a sieve of sorrel, with two lettuces, and a handful 
 
 : 22 
 
420 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 
 of chervil; having drained the whole on a sieve, pound 
 it with a quarter of a pound of the crumb of a French 
 roll soaked in consomme; rub the purée through the 
 tammy, and mix it with consommé, boil, and skim it ; 
 then add a liaison of ten eggs, and pour it into the 
 tureen containing the eel, some chervil blanched, small 
 onions run down to glaze, and some crusts dried in the 
 stove. 
 
 Sour or Herrinas’ Ross, named from the celebrated 
 Writer, Erasmus (Potage de Laitances de Harengs a 
 l Erasmé).—Prepare a purée as above; sauté in butter 
 twelve soft roes of herrings (disgorged and dried on a 
 napkin), with a little salt and pepper; drain, and lay 
 them in a tureen, with a plate of small quenelles of 
 carp, a quart of young peas plain boiled, and chervil 
 blanched ; add the purée when boiling. 
 
 Sour or Fisu, a la Flessingue, from the Dutch port of 
 that name (Potage de Poisson a la Flessingue).—Make 
 a consommé as usual; blanch a quart of fresh large peas, a 
 handful of chervil, and two lettuces minced; after boiling 
 half an hour, strain, and pound well the peas, with a 
 handful of sorrel minced and sweated in butter, and a 
 quarter of a pound of crumb of bread soaked in con- 
 sommé; rub the whole through a tammy; make a 
 quenelle of cod-fish, with an essence of mushrooms ; cut a 
 slice of salmon into escalopes, throw salt over them, and 
 an hour after wash, and saute them in butter; boil two 
 small slices of cod from the thick end of the tail, pre- 
 viously salted for twenty minutes, and when it will leave 
 the bone take it up, and break the fish in flakes, placing 
 them in the tureen containing the quenelles moulded in 
 tea-spoons, the escalopes of salmon, and thirty button 
 mushrooms ; pour in the purée whilst boiling, previously 
 clarified by mixing the consomme with it. 
 
 Compote oF PARTRIDGES, THE DutcH Way.—Get 
 four or more partridges, as young and small as you can ; 
 truss them as boiled fowls; pass them in a stew-pan, 
 with two ounces of butter, a small onion, stuffed with 
 two cloves, a seasoned faggot, and a few mushroom 
 
DUTCH COOKERY. 421 
 
 paring, a few green onions, and a few pieces of streaky 
 bacon, cut in combs, large olives, or other suitable form, 
 pepper-corns, and a blade of mace. Let the whole 
 sweat a few minutes; add a table-spoonful of flour ; 
 saute them, till the butter is well mixed with the flour ; 
 then dilute it with white consommé, sufficient to cover 
 the birds. Let them simmer on a back stove for twenty 
 minutes or half an hour, if the birds are very young ; 
 skim the sauce well; take out the birds, drain them, 
 and take the strings out; put them in another stew- 
 pan, with the pieces of bacon neatly trimmed, and strain 
 the sauce overthem. Keep them hot, and a few minutes 
 before wanted just give them a boil, and work in a 
 liaison of four or five yolks ; add a few small quenelles of 
 chicken farce, mushrooms, button onions, and a little 
 parsley blanched and chopped very fine. Finish with a 
 little salt, lemon-juice, and a small piece of butter, 
 worked in. Dish:them, putting combs of fried bread 
 between each bird. Mask them with the sauce, glaze 
 the fried bread, and put the ragodt in the middle. 
 
 Quails are to be dressed in the same manner. 
 
 Percy, Dutcu Metuop (Perches a la Hollandaise). 
 —The perch from rivers are better than those from 
 ponds, the flesh being whiter, firm, flaky, and of an ex- 
 quisite flavour, digesting with much facility, and is of 
 all fish the most nourishing; the very large, or the very 
 small, are not so good as those of the middling size; 
 when old, the flesh becoming tough, and losing its fine 
 qualities ; when young, the flesh is viscous: nevertheless, 
 the larger ones are more sought after for purposes of the 
 table; its freshness is known by the brilliancy of its eye, 
 and red tint of the gills. 
 
 Have five large perch, clean, and tie up their heads, 
 boil them in salt and water, with a lemon cut in slices, 
 an onion and a carrot sliced, whole parsley, thyme, bay- 
 leaf, and a little mace; boil nearly half an hour; when 
 done, take them up, lay them on a cloth, cut off their 
 fins, and with a knife take off all the scales on both 
 sides; then dish them on a napkin, placing the largest in 
 
422 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 
 the middle; surround the piece with potatoes boiled in 
 salt and water; stick upright the red fin of the perch 
 down the centres of each fish, and serve two boats of 
 melted butter, to which add salts pepper, lomon-jpice, 
 and a little grated nutmeg. 
 
 Cop, Dutcu Fasuion (Cabillaud a la Hollandaise). 
 —The flesh of the cod-fish is very white, flaky, and 
 delicate, less firm than that of the turbot, and of 
 an excellent flavour, very nourishing, and of easy 
 digestion, fitting for all ages; whilst the salted cod-fish 
 digests difficultly, and, though soaked in river water, it 
 remains hard and stringy. The freshness of the cod- 
 fish may be easily known when the eye, which is full 
 and rismg from the head, is surrounded with a fleshy 
 substance, transparent and red ; the gills should be red, 
 the flesh firm, the skin clear and spotted partially with 
 yellow spots, which denotes the best kind; choose it 
 short and round; take out the gills and the entrails at 
 the same place, cut off the fins, wash it ina quantity of 
 water, drain it, put in the inside a handful of salt, and 
 some also over it, leave it in this state for some hours 
 in a cold larder; in summer it should be laid in ice; two 
 
 hours before serving, again wash it, tie up the head with 
 
 strings; then make on its sides six large incisions in 
 lines inclining towards the head, an inch deep; make it 
 disgorge in cold water and milk three-quarters of an 
 hour; take it up, and lay it with the belly downwards 
 upon the strainer of the kettle, which should be half 
 filled with boiling water, with sufficient salt to give a 
 flavour to the fish; add to it a pint of milk, let it boil 
 slowly, and when the flesh at the incisions begins to 
 open, and becomes firm to the touch in quitting the 
 bone, take it up and dish it on a napkin, still keeping 
 the belly downwards; surround it with groups of 
 potatoes plain boiled, and branches of parsley; serve 
 with two sauce-boats filed with melted butter, adding 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, and juice of a lemon. 
 
 Sores, THE DurcH Way.—Gut your soles, take off 
 the skin, wash and clean them well. Put water over the 
 
DUTCH COOKERY. 423 
 
 fire; when it boils, put in your soles; let them boil a lit- 
 tle. Put into a clean stew-pan over the fire, chopped 
 parsley with a little water; the water being boiled away, 
 and when you are ready to serve up, take out your fish 
 to drain. Put a little butter and a dust of flour to your 
 parsley to thicken your sauce. . Take off your stew-pan, 
 dish up your soles with your parsley sauce over them ; 
 serve them up hot for a course. 
 
 Satt Cop, tHe Dutcu Way.—Take some cod well 
 scaled, and the whitest you can get, the salt being well 
 taken off ; boil some small carrots in water, then throw 
 your cod cut into slices into it. Your cod being done, 
 dish it up, and with each slice of cod, two or three small 
 carrots. Take some parsley, washed and cut small, 
 which you put in a sauce-boat, and melted butter in 
 another, and serve up your cod hot for entry; mustard 
 might be put into the butter, but every body does not 
 like it so; it should, however, be upon the table. 
 
 An Oyster Piz, tue Dutrcu Way.—Take some 
 large oysters; lay in your baking-pan an abbess of fine 
 paste, and put over it some butter, with rasped crusts of 
 bread and parsley cut small; make over it a laying of 
 oysters, put more butter with crusts and parsley as be- 
 fore, then make a second laying of oysters; and do the 
 same as before: cover your pie with another abbess, 
 colour it with eggs, send it to the oven. When baked, 
 dish it up immediately, without taking off either the up- 
 per crust or the fat; add only to it a lemon-juice; serve it 
 up hot for a course. 
 
 A Jowi oF SALMON AFTER THE DutTcH FasHion.— 
 Take a jowl of salmon, scale and wash it very clean, and 
 put some water upon the fire; take your salmon and put 
 it upon a fish-plate, which you put into your kettle; put 
 a stew-pan with a little vinegar over the fire, season your 
 salmon with salt, some onions sliced, thyme, sweet basil, 
 and parsley in bunches; then put your vinegar hot over 
 it, moisten it with boiling water, and let the liquor be of 
 a good taste; when done make a sauce with a piece of 
 good butter, a little flour and water, a dash of vinegar, 
 
424 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 
 a few anchovies, a little nutmeg, and some shrimps picked, 
 and thicken it; when ready to serve, dish up your sal- 
 mon. Let your sauce be well tasted, put it upon the 
 salmon, and serve it up hot for your entry. : 
 
 Youne TurKxeys witH Oysters DutcH Way.— 
 Take a young turkey, order it, and make a ragotit as 
 follows :—blanch some oysters in their own liquor, which 
 you keep by you, and pick them as said before; put 
 some of the said liquor in a stew-pan with four yolks of 
 ego's, a bit of butter, some parsley and tarragon, lemon 
 cut in dice, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. The whole 
 being well blanched on the fire, put your oysters into 
 your pan; take care of letting your sauce eurdle. Your 
 turkeys being enough done, cut the legs and wings, but 
 not quite off ; cut a slice on the belly, and squeeze it 
 between.two dishes, then pour your ragout of oysters 
 over it, and serve it up hot for first course. 
 
 Durcu Saucre.—Put into a stew-pan, a tea-spoonful 
 of flour, four spoonfuls of elder vinegar, a quarter of 2 
 pound of fresh butter, the yolks of five eggs, and a 
 little salt. Put it on the fire and keep constantly stir- 
 ring it. When it has become thick enough, work it 
 well, that you may refine it. If it should not curdle, 
 you have no occasion to strain it through a tammy ; 
 season well, and serve it up. Some do not like elder 
 vinegar, in that case use tarragon, or plain—but odorous 
 vinegar is preferable. 
 
 Durcu Sauce ror Meat or Fisu.—Put six spoon- 
 fuls of water, and four of vinegar, into a sauce-pan 
 warm, and thicken it with the yolks of two eggs. Make 
 it quite hot, but do not boil it; squeeze in the juice of 
 half a lemon, and strain it through a sieve. 
 
 PLUKKEFISK.—Plukkefisk may be made of any flat- 
 fish. Boil your fish and remove the flesh carefully from 
 the skin and bones; make some melted butter, with 
 flour, add as much milk by degrees as will bring it to 
 the consistency of thick cream; into this put your fish, 
 with a little salt and grated nutmeg, and let it have one 
 boil; then pour it over some thin slices of bread, fried 
 
DUTCH COOKERY. 495 
 
 in hot butter and lard, strew the top of the fish about an 
 inch thick with bread crumbs, pour melted butter over 
 it, and bake it in a Dutch oven till nicely browned. 
 
 FROMAGE OF RaspsBEeRRiES.—Add to half a pint of 
 raspberry-juice, a small cupful of cherry-juice, and sugar 
 to your taste. Dissolve in water an ounce and a half of 
 isinglass, strain and pour it to the juices. Let this 
 remain till cool, then add a pint of cream beaten to a 
 thick froth. Continue stirring it till quite cold, then 
 dip a mould in water and put in the above. To be 
 turned out the next day. This may be made of either 
 the juice itself or of the preserved fruit. 
 
 Waite Saco Sourp.—Wash well, and boil half a 
 pound of sago in four pints of water with a rind of a 
 lemon, add four ounces of raisins. Beat together the 
 yolks of four eggs, with white pounded sugar to your 
 taste, the juice of two or three lemons, and half a pint 
 of white wine; pour the soup slowly over, beating the 
 eggs and wine at the same time. The sago will take 
 about half an hour’s boiling. 
 
 CreEAM Savce.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 a spoonful of flour, a pinch of chopped parsley, chives, 
 salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, into a sauce-pan, with 
 a gilass of cream or milk; set it on the fire and keep 
 stirring it; let it boil a quarter of an hour. Serve with 
 potatoes, cod, turbot, and salt-fish. 
 ~ Coty AncHovy Saucre.—Bone the anchovies, mix 
 with chopped hard-boiled eggs, add the yolk of a raw 
 egg, a little mustard, salt, vinegar, and oil. Set the bones 
 of the anchovies on to boil in a little water; strain and 
 add them to the rest. 
 
 RAsPBERRY SaucEe.—Pulp the raspberries, and ex- 
 tract all the juice, to which add sugar, a little wine and 
 water ; set it to boil. When it boils add a spoonful of 
 potato-flour and cold water. Give it one boil up and 
 serve. 
 
 Cuerry Sauce.—Take half a pound of cherries, 
 bruise and boil them in half a pint of water, strain, 
 and set them on the fire again with the addition of 
 
426 DUTCH COOKERY. 
 
 sugar, cinnamon, or the peel of a lemon: just before ' 
 serving add a spoonful of flour. To be eaten with 
 plain boiled rice. 
 
 MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES.—Take an equal quan: 
 tity of carrots and turnips, cut them in pieces half the 
 size of a walnut, put them into a sauce-pan with some 
 butter, and a dozen button onions, let them brown gently; 
 wet them with a little gravy, add mushrooms, youn 
 beans, haricots, and Brussels sprouts (all these to be 
 previously parboiled), some asparagus, peas, the tops of 
 eauliflowers, with a piece of sugar the size of a walnut. 
 Let them simmer for a short time. Add alittle flour to 
 thicken just before serving. It may be served as a dish 
 alone, or as a garnish, 
 
427 
 
 RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 
 STURGEON, ImpEeRtAL Move (Esturgeon al Imperiale). 
 —The freshness of the fish is known by the liveliness of 
 the eye, the redness of the gills, and the firmness of the 
 flesh, which should be of a yellow tint, being then more 
 rich and delicate than when whiter; choose it short and 
 round; having cleaned and washed it, cut off some of 
 the fleshy parts from the belly, that it may, when dished, 
 lay level ; tie it up, and lay it in a kettle with a large 
 mirepoix moistened with a bottle of Hock, another of 
 Madeira, and two ladlefuls of consommé (or fish-stock, 
 if for maigre), cover it with buttered paper, and proceed 
 in all things to dress, dish, and decorate this fish, as 
 directed for the Saumon a l’Imperiale (see that article), 
 and serve with the sauces therein specified ; the piece of 
 fish should be two feet and a half long, and taken from 
 the fish about six inches from its head. 
 
 Tue Russtan CountRYWoMAN’s Sour (Potage de 
 Choux & la Paysanne Russe).—Cut in small pieces 
 three pounds of the brisket of beef, and one pound of 
 thin streaky bacon ; put these in a stock-pot, add beef- 
 stock, and skim it ; two hours after, mix with the soup 
 two onions sliced,.and sweated in butter ; then a spoon- 
 ful of flour, and a white cabbage cut up, washed and 
 drained ; boil these two hours, put into six sausages, 
 which take up again ten minutes afterwards ; skim the 
 soup, and serve. This is the common soup of the 
 Russian people. 
 
 Russtan Impertan Sour (Potage Russe a 0Impe- 
 riale).—Trim in small escalopes a small slice of sturgeon, 
 and throw salt over it ; cut in escalopes the fillets of a 
 middling-sized eel and a sole; proceed with the essence 
 and the fish as in the last article; then add to it roots, 
 
428 RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 
 prepared as for the Julienne; boil it an hour, and pour 
 it into the tureen containing the escalopes of the fish, 
 some small whiting quenelles, with which mingle pars- 
 ley chopped and blanched ; add twelve livers of burbots, 
 and twelve roes of carp dressed in salt and water. 
 
 Russran RissoLes.—Mix in a stew-pan two spoon- 
 fuls of flour, four eggs, a gill of cream, a grain of salt, 
 and a spoonful of warmed butter ; when well mingled, 
 pour a spoonful in a frying-pan, which fry as pancakes ; 
 being coloured on both sides, place them on a large 
 baking-sheet, and in the same way use the remainder of 
 the batter, making a dozen of these omelettes very thin, 
 which cut in half; trim each piece to a long square, and 
 place on each some forcemeat, or minced fowl or game, 
 prepared as for croquettes; roll up the omelette so as 
 that the farce may be thoroughly enveloped, and to 
 secure it, wet the edges of the omelettes with some of 
 the batter ; having made twenty-four rissoles, dip them 
 in six eggs beaten up with a grain of salt, and cover — 
 them with very fine bread crumbs, as for croquettes, 
 crumbling them only once, and lay them on stew-pan 
 covers ; fry them of a fine colour, and serve. 
 
 Russtan Patrres.—Chop the half of a fillet of beef, 
 which has hung some time, and mix it with four ounces 
 of butter; season it with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped | 
 mushrooms, parsley, and shallot, and a little poultry 
 glaze ; the croustades should be sheeted somewhat thick, 
 as the crust imbibes the béchamel ; fill them, cover them 
 ” with a cover of puff paste, and when serving, mask them 
 with a little sauce tortue ; cover them again, and serve. 
 
 Ratsep Pris, THE RusstAN wAy.—Cut in scollops a 
 small slice of salmon ; pass it with fine herbs, salt, pep- 
 per, and nutmeg. Do the same with a small fat liver. 
 Then chop twelve yolks of eggs, boiled hard ; raise the 
 crust about seven inches wide, and four high ; line the 
 bottom and sides with rice stewed in consommé of a fowl; 
 the rice must be cold, as well as the rest of the garnish : 
 line the bottom with scollops of salmon, on which strew 
 yolk of egg; place on this half the scollops of fat liver, 
 
RUSSIAN COOKERY. 499 
 
 and cover them with yolk of egg. Repeat this, and on 
 the top put the butter with the fine herbs, in which you 
 have passed the salmon and fat liver; cover the whole 
 with the remainder of the rice ; finish as before directed; 
 bake it an hour and a half, and serve. 
 
 OysTEeRs, THE Russian Fasuion. — Your oysters 
 being opened, put in each of them a few sweet herbs, 
 parsley, chibbol, and a sweet basil minced, with pepper, 
 and a dash of white wine. Then cover them with their 
 shell, put them in a baking-pan, with fire under and 
 a Being done, serve them up hot for a dainty 
 
 ish. 
 
 Youne Partripces, THE Russian Way.— Take 
 some young partridges, which being picked and drawn, 
 you must cut them after the manner of a fricassée of 
 chickens ; do not put them in water, but in a stew-pan, 
 with a little melted bacon, and put them on a brisk fire; 
 where, after having taken two or three turns of the pan, 
 wet them with a good glassful of brandy, and let them 
 keep on the fire till it goes out of itself; at which time 
 put in your pan some mushrooms and truffles, with some 
 good gravy and cullis, and then put them on a moderate 
 fire; mind to take all the fat away, and being ready to 
 serve, put therein a bit of fresh butter, with the juice of 
 a lemon, and being in their dish, serve them up hot for a 
 first course. 
 
 FRICASSLE OF YOUNG RABBITS, THE Russ1AN Way.— 
 Your rabbits being ordered, and cut as those before; toss 
 them up over a brisk fire, with some melted bacon, a- 
 bunch of sweet herbs, and a couple of onions. Then put 
 in it a couple of glasses of French brandy, keeping it 
 stirring, whilst your brandy burns ; but as soon as the 
 flame is out, put in a small ladleful of gravy, and as much 
 of cullis; let it stew slowly. Add some mushrooms ; 
 your ragoiit being done, take off the fat, dish it up, with 
 a lemon-juice squeezed over it ; serve it up hot for a 
 first course. 
 
 Kaissetrft, A Russtan Diso.—Put in an earthen 
 pot about a quart of fine flour, with five or six quarts of 
 
430 RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 
 water; let it be kept in a cool place during nine days; 
 stirring it now and then. When you will make use of 
 it, take about two ladlefuls, according to the quantity 
 you will make, put it in a stew-pan over the fire, with a 
 quart of cream, and a lemon-juice, without stirring it. 
 As soon as the whole is turned to water you will get hands 
 to hold the sieve to strain it off; throw away the first wa- 
 ter, squeeze the remainder, put it again in a stew-pan, 
 season it with a little salt, and set it to boil. When: 
 boiled, put it in shells or tin vessels, and let it cool. 
 Then turn your shell or vessel upside down into your 
 dish; put some good cream over it, and serve it up fora 
 dainty dish. ; 
 
 This dish may be served up with sugar instead of 
 
 cream. 
 RUSSIAN SOUPS (DES POTAGES RUSSES). 
 
 Tue Ovxa, A Russtan Fish Sour (La Ouka, Po- 
 tage de Poisson @ la Russe).—If the turtle is the 
 national soup of the English, so is the ouka that of the 
 Russian nation. In Petersburg, its chief ingredient 1s 
 the sterlet, whilst the soup here described is made with 
 such fish as the markets of Paris furnish. 
 
 Put in a stock-pot two fowls roasted, the under nut of 
 veal, and the beef-stock necessary; boil, and skim it, and 
 add two carrots, two turnips, two onions, a bunch of 
 leeks, and a head of celery ; after five hours’ boiling, 
 take off the fat, and strain it through a napkin; then 
 raise the fillets of a small plaice or brill, a large perch, 
 and a middling-sized eel; trim them into small escalopes, 
 throw a little salt over them, an hour after, wash, and 
 drain them on a napkin, and place them in a sauté- 
 plate; prepare a quenelle of whiting, with a purée of 
 mushrooms, then mark an essence of the fish, putting in 
 a stew-pan the trimmings of the fish, with a sole cut in 
 quarters, two pottles of mushrooms, two onions, and two 
 carrots sliced, some parsley-roots, a piece of bay-leaf, 
 thyme, basil, a pinch of pepper, grated nutmeg, two 
 cloves, and two large spoonfuls of consommé; simmer 
 
 i 
 : 
 
RUSSIAN COOKERY. 431 
 
 this essence for an hour, *squeeze it through a tammy 
 into the saute-plate to the escalopes, and let them boil 
 
 _ gently for twenty minutes; then placing a cover on the 
 fish to keep them from falling ; drain off their liquor 
 into the consommé, reducing it one-third ; mix with it 
 afterwards a little sorrel and chervil blanched; and, a 
 quarter of an hour after, pour it imto the tureen con- 
 taining the escalopes of the fish, the quenelles moulded 
 in tea-spoons, and poached, but without boiling in 
 consomme, and a plate of livers of burbots (lottes) 
 disgorged and boiled in consommé: small sturgeon is 
 considered better for this soup than the plaice ; codfish 
 is also good in its formation. 
 
 ~ Soup or Fruvers or Percu; from the Empress 
 Catherine II. (Potage de Filets de Perches a la 
 Catherine II.)— The consommé being prepared as 
 before, trim, in small escalopes, the fillets of three perch, 
 throw salt over them ; an hour after wash, drain, and lay 
 them in a saute-plate; afterwards make a quenelle of 
 cray-fish, with cray-fish butter ; mark an essence of fish 
 thus : cut in lengths a small eel, a sole, a small pike, and 
 the trimmings of the perch ; add four: pottles of mush- 
 rooms, two onions sliced, parsley-roots, two cloves, a 
 pinch of pepper and grated nutmeg, bay-leaf, thyme, 
 basil, two new anchovies, the flesh of a sound lemon, a 
 bottle of Champagne, and a little salt; boil it slowly for 
 
 _ an hour, squeeze it through a tammy upon the fillets of 
 perch, which boil for ten minutes; add six livers of 
 burbots, six roes of carp, and twenty-four small mush- 
 rooms turned and very white; having simmered the 
 escalopes of perch for some minutes, drain them and lay 
 them in the tureen, and upon them place the livers, roes, 
 and mushrooms; pour the liquor from them into the 
 consommé, which thicken slightly with a light roux; 
 when serving, add a liaison of twelve eggs, and four 
 ounces of cray-fish butter; stir the soup, that the liaison 
 may mix perfectly smooth ; and, as soon as it begins to 
 boil, pour it into the tureen, adding the points of a 
 bundle of asparagus, prepared as for an entree ; serve. 
 
432 RUSSIAN COOKERY. 
 
 GisLET Sour, German Mone (Potage d Abbatis 
 d’Oie a VL Allemande).—Have four sets of young 
 giblets, singe, disgorge, and trim them, blanch, and 
 put them into claritied butter wherein you have fried 
 four ounces of bacon from the breast, but very lean, and 
 trimmed into large dice; mix with them two spoonfuls 
 of flour, then the consommé prepared as usual, with a 
 large spoonful of blond de veau, and a bundle composed 
 of parsley, young onions, or chives, half a clove of garlic, 
 a little thyme, basil, savory, and bay-leaf ; add two cloves, 
 mace, and pepper; having boiled two hours, take the 
 fat perfectly from the soup, and try if the feet be done 
 enough ; then take the giblets upon a large baking- 
 sheet, remove the necks and livers, trim the feet, and cut 
 the gizzards in escalopes, which put in the tureen with 
 the bacon; then pass the soup through a tammy, and 
 reduce it a little to render it stronger; when serving, 
 pour it into the tureen, adding twenty small cocks’ 
 combs, and two pottles of mushrooms turned very white, 
 and also the liquor from them. 
 
 Soup OF SAUER Krovut; from the Emperor Alex- 
 ander (Le Tschy; Potage de Chou Croute a [Alex- 
 
 ander).—Prepare the consommeé ; pass off slightly in 
 
 clarified butter two onions cut in slices; mix with them 
 two spoonfuls of flour, and two pounds of sauer krout, 
 washed and squeezed, and the juniper berries taken out; 
 two hours before serving, add a fat fowl, two partridges, 
 a sweetbread, and the half of a tongue salted red; 
 three-quarters of an hour afterwards take them up, and 
 when cold cut up the fowl, dividing each member in two 
 parts; trim the fillets only of the partridges, cut the 
 sweetbread in escalopes, and the tongue also; lay the 
 whole in a tureen ; three hours after, whilst the soup 
 is boiling, skim it well, and mix with it half a pint of sour 
 cream, with a pinch of pepper; pour it boiling into the 
 tureen, and serve. 
 
 Soup oF Fow1, Bapen Fasuion (Potage de Lait de 
 poulet ala Baden).—Break eight yolks of eggs in a 
 stew-pan, mixing with them gradually one pint and a 
 
RUSSIAN COOKERY. 433 
 
 half of milk, a little salt, grated nutmeg and pepper; 
 strain it through a tammy, and pour it into twelve dariole 
 moulds carefully buttered, and place them in a deep 
 saute-plate as in a bain marie over a very slow fire, 
 that the water may not quite boil, but keep as near 
 boiling point as possible ; place fire on a cover over them; 
 an hour should suffice to make them firm; leave them 
 to cool in the bain marie ; when serving, turn them out 
 on a small cover ; cut them equally in four pieces, and 
 place them gently in a tureen containing some chervil 
 blanched ; add boiling consommé, pouring it against the 
 sides of the tureen to keep the timbales entire. 
 
 OysTERS, THE RussIAN way.-—Your oysters being 
 opened, put in each of them a few sweet herbs, parsley, 
 cehibbol, and sweet basil minced, with pepper, and a dash 
 of white wine. Then cover them with their shell, put 
 them in a baking-pan with fire under and over. Being 
 done, serve them up hot. 
 
434 
 
 POLISH COOKERY. 
 
 POLONESE SOUPS—(DES POTAGES POLONAIS). 
 Tue Barcu (Le Barch; Potage Polonais).—Put in 
 
 a stock-pot a roast fowl, an under nut of veal, a marrow- 
 
 bone, one pound of bacon from the breast, two carrots, 
 a head of celery, two onions stuck with six cloves, a 
 bunch of parsley tied up with thyme, bay-leaf, basil, 
 
 mace, and one ounce of whole white pepper ; fill three 
 
 parts full with a liquor from beet-roots, thus prepared:— 
 clean twenty fresh-pulled beet-roots, put them in an 
 earthen pan containing a bucket of river water, and six 
 small loaves of rye flour, to create a fermentation ; cover 
 the pan, and lute it round with a rim of soft paste, to 
 close it hermetically, thus preventmg the air from enter- 
 ing ; set it in a warm place to accelerate the fermenta- 
 tion ; ten days after, uncover it, when it will contain a 
 vinegar from the beet-roots, very red and sour; moisten 
 the consommé with this; having skimmed it, give it an 
 hour’s boiling ; then add a duckling, a fat fowl half- 
 roasted, and six large sausages; observe the stewing of 
 these articles, as also the bacon, above-mentioned, and 
 gradually take them up as they are done; take one of 
 
 the beets which was used in making the Barch, cut it in — 
 
 small fillets, as for the Julienne, with an equal quantity 
 of celery and onions cut in the same manner ; pass the 
 roots slightly in clarified butter, add some consommé, 
 taking off the fat carefully, and draw them down to 
 glaze ; chop four ounces of fillet of beef, with four 
 ounces of suet, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two 
 yolks of eggs; pound this farce, and make with it thirty 
 small ravioles, which simmer ten minutes in a little con- 
 
 
 
 3 
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 BY 
 
 a 
 
POLISH COOKERY. 435 
 
 sommé; with the rest, make small quenelles the size of 
 filberts, arrange them in a sauté-plate, with clarified 
 butter, and fry them of a light colour at the moment of 
 serving ; boil three eggs, which cut in two lengthwise, 
 take out the yolks and pound them with a raw yolk, a 
 little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, a little horse-radish 
 grated fine, and chopped parsley ; fill the whites of the 
 egos again with this preparation, dip them in an eg¢ 
 beaten up, and when drained cover them with bread- 
 crumbs, and a moment before serving fry them in 
 clarified butter; let the consommé boil five hours, skim, 
 and strain it through a napkin, and clarify it as usual ; 
 run it down to a light-coloured glaze, of a sharp, but 
 excellent flavour: during its reduction, trim an ox tail 
 braised, which lay in a tureen ; cut the bacon in square 
 pieces, raise the fillets from the fowl and ducklings, 
 divide each sausage in four pieces, and lay the whole in 
 the tureen ; adding the quenelles and eggs fried, then 
 the vegetables and parsley blanched; cover, and set 
 them in the hot closet; scrape a beet-root newly 
 gathered, which pound and rub through a tammy to 
 obtain a red juice, which place upon the fire, and when 
 boiling, pour it in the reduced consommé to give it the 
 colour of claret; then pour it boiling into the tureen, 
 with a little whole white pepper ; serve the marrow-bone 
 hot on a plate, with fried bread. 
 
 Sotrs, PoLtonese Mopx( Soles a la Polonaise).—Pre- 
 pare marinade, and bone the soles as above ; spread upon 
 them half an inch in thickness a quenelle of whitings, 
 with the least possible anchovy butter mixed with it ; 
 fold them up, and again mask them with quenelle, 
 (using half a bottle of Hock and the usual seasonings), 
 reduce the liquor to a glaze; then glaze, dry in the 
 oven, and re-glaze the fish as above; then lay upon 
 them tastefully a large palm-leaf of fillets of soles conti 
 with truffles, prepared for this purpose, and passed off 
 in butter; dish, and pour round the fish the sauce 
 a la Regénce, adding to it half of the glaze and four 
 
 25 2 
 
436 POLISH COOKERY. 
 
 ounces of fresh butter ; serve one-third of the sauce in 
 a boat. 
 
 Youne ParTRIDGES, CALLED Bicockr.—Your par- 
 tridges being roasted, as those before mentioned, cut 
 them as you would chickens to make a fricassée of them; 
 then put them in a stew-pan with a little broth, a crumb 
 of chibbol hashed, a crumb of shalots, a little parsley, 
 salt and pepper, a rocambole well minced, a small hand- 
 ful of crumbs of bread, some zests, with the juice of an 
 orange; heat them a little on the fire, and give them 
 two or three tosses without boiling; lay them in their 
 dish, and serve them up hot for a first course. 
 
 A Fowt wits Sarrron, Potish Way.—Draw a fowl 
 clean, and order it as it should be; spit it, wrapped up 
 in slices of bacon, with paper tied round it; take a good 
 many onions cut in slices, boil them in a stew-pan with 
 broth as white as possible ; being well boiled, strain 
 them off; put them in a stew-pan, and, if too thick, put 
 broth to them; they must be just as thick as a cullis of 
 ham; then take saffron, dry and pound it well, put into 
 a cup or other vessel a good deal of it, together with a 
 little hot broth; stir it well, and put a little now and 
 then in your cullis, till you see it is of a good colour; 
 but your saffron must not prevail. Take your fowl off 
 the spit, cut off the legs and wings, and put them into 
 your cullis, and serve them up hot for entry. At 
 another time you may take parsley roots, cut in slices ; 
 boil them, and put to them the same cullis as above; 
 with the saffron. Instead of roasting your fowl, boil it 
 in a kettle; a quarter of an hour will be enough, if it be 
 good and tender; cut it up and dish it, putting your 
 cullis and parsley roots over it, and thus serve it up hot 
 for entry. 
 
 A Neat’s ToncuE, Pontish Way.—Take a neat’s 
 tongue, put it in boiling water, and take off the skin : 
 let it be done a la braise. When your tongue is boiled, 
 cut it in two, but not quite off, and stick it with pre- 
 served lemon, and slices and sticks of cinnamon. Then 
 
lord 
 
 POLISH COOKERY. 437 
 
 put in a stew-pan over the fire, a bit of sugar, a glass 
 of wine, and a little gravy. The sugar being melted, 
 put in your tongue, and let it stew a little while; then 
 dish it up with your sweet sauce, and serve it up hot for 
 a course. 
 
 Poxisu Basa (Baba Polonois).—This is, according 
 to M. Caréme, the invention of Stanislaus Leczinski, 
 King of Poland, Grand Duke of Lorraine and Bar: he 
 denominates him a prince fort gourmand. 
 
 Sift three pounds of flour, prepare one-fourth for a 
 leaven, with one ounce and a half of yeast, and half a 
 pint of lukewarm water, as directed for the Brioche 
 (which see) ; then make afterwards a fountain with the 
 remaining flour ; add one ounce of salt, four ounces of 
 pounded sugar, half a pint of good cream, twenty eggs, 
 and two pounds of fresh butter, (in winter worked with 
 the hand) ; proceed as for the Brioche; and having added 
 _ the leaven, when properly risen, work the whole well, 
 and spread it out a little ; make a hollow in the middle, 
 in which pour a glass of Madeira wine, and an infusion 
 of a drachm of saffron boiled in half a gill of water ; 
 strew on the paste six ounces of currants, picked and 
 washed, six ounces of raisins, stoned and divided in half 
 (these should be prepared beforehand), and one ounce of 
 candied cedrata cut in small pieces ; mix the whole well 
 together ; separate an eighth of the paste, render it 
 smooth on the upper side, and pick out the largest 
 pieces of the raisins from its surface ; line a mould (of 
 the same size as the preceding, and well buttered) with 
 this dough, the raisins from which are removed, that the 
 sugar they contain may not cause it to stick to the 
 mould in baking: the same attentions during the fer- 
 mentation and the baking are required as for the Com- 
 piegne cake, with this difference, that it must be put 
 in a cooler oven, giving it the same length of time: its 
 colour should be of a fine red, but it is not easy to 
 attain it, because the saffron, with the sugar and wine, 
 contribute to spoil it ; and a quarter of an hour too long 
 in the oven is sufficient to change this beautiful colour 
 
438 POLISH COOKERY. 
 
 to a gray or darker tint: it is essential to put it in the 
 oven the instant the fermentation is perfect, as after- 
 wards the weight of the raisins will eause it to fall 
 rapidly. 
 
 Mincep Cuickens, THE PotisH Way.— Mince the 
 white flesh of boiled or roasted chickens, which have 
 been served the day before, very fine; throw it mto a 
 béchamel ; keep it hot m the bain marie. Garnish an 
 entrée dish with six fried combs of bread, the ends 
 meeting in the centre of the dish, so as to form six 
 partitions ; in each of these lay a spoonful of the minced 
 chicken, and an egg boiled five minutes; on each egg 
 put a larded under fillet of chicken: to shape these to 
 the egg, bake them on bread and a slice of fat bacon. 
 
 
 
439 
 
 PORTUGUESE COOKERY. 
 
 Eaes, Portuguese Way.— Melt sugar with orange 
 water, the juice of two lemons, and a little salt; then 
 put them on the fire with your yolks of eggs, and stir 
 them with a silver spoon ; when your eggs stick no more 
 to the dish they will be done enough. When they are cold 
 dress them like a pyramid, and garnish with lemon-peel 
 and march-pane. You may also serve them hot, and 
 dressed in their dish, strewed with sugar, and glazed with 
 a red-hot shovel. At other times you may pound them 
 in a mortar, with jelly of currants, or juice of beets done 
 in sugar, and strain them through a strainer ; serve them 
 dry, in or like a green or red rock. 
 
 SoLes In THE PorTUGUESE Way.—Take one large, 
 or two small: if large, cut the fish in two; if small, they 
 need only be split. The bones being taken out, put the 
 fish into a pan with a bit of butter and some lemon-juice, 
 give it a fry, then lay the fish on a dish, and spread a 
 forcemeat over each piece, and roll it round, fastening the 
 roll with a few small skewers. Lay the rolls into a small 
 earthen pan, beat an egg and wet them, then strew 
 crumbs over; and put the remainder of the egg, with a 
 little meat gravy, a spoonful of caper-liquor, an anchovy 
 chopped fine, and some parsley chopped, into the bottom 
 of the pan; cover it close, and bake till the fish are done 
 enough in aslow oven. Then place the rolls in the dish 
 for serving, and cover it to keep them hot till the gravy 
 baked is skimmed: if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured 
 as above, must be prepared and added to it. 
 
 PorTUGUESE STUFFING FOR SOLES BAKED.—Pound 
 cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little; then add some fat 
 bacon that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some 
 
440 PORTUGUESE COOKERY. 
 
 onions, a little garlic or shalot, some parsley, anchovy, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg; pound all fine with a few 
 crumbs, and bind it with two or three yolks of eggs. 
 
 The heads of the fish are to left on one side of the split 
 part, and kept on the outer side of the roll; and when 
 served the heads are to be turned towards each other in 
 the dish. 
 
 Garnish with fried or dried parsley. 
 
 Mincep BEEF, THE PortuGuESE Way.—Chop very 
 fine a pound and a half of the upper fillet of a sirloin of 
 beef, before served; previously trimming away all fat, 
 nerves, skins, and the brown outside; put it into a stew- 
 pan. with a tea-spoonful of flour, to which add about half- 
 a-pint of the gravy from roasted joints of beef: season 
 with a little pepper and salt; stir it over the fire till tho- 
 roughly warmed through; do not let it boil, or it will be 
 spoilt; add a little glaze, merely shaking the glaze brush 
 over it; place six combs of fried bread in the dish, meet- 
 ing in the centre; fix it with a little flour and white of 
 egg, the dish being very hot; pour the mince meat into 
 the divisions, in each of which put a fine poached egg, or 
 an egg boiled hard; sprinkle the eggs with a little pep- 
 
 nO nie Ne 
 
 per, salt, and a few drops of glaze; glaze the combs of : 
 
 bread, and serve. 
 
 APPLES, THE PorTUGUESE Way.—Hollow your ap- 
 ples, and stick into them preserved lemon-peel. Then 
 take some cream called Patissiere. Biscuits made with 
 bitter almonds, and marmalade of apricots, and mix it all 
 together. Lay this composition in the bottom of your 
 dish, and put over it as many of your apples as your dish 
 will hold; fill up afterwards the hollow part of your ap- 
 ples with the rest; strew it with sugar; bake it of a good 
 colour; and serve it up hot. 
 
 A MATELOT, WITH SEVERAL SoRTS OF FIsH, THE 
 PortTuGuEsSE Way.—This matelot is to be made in the 
 same manner with the last ragoit, with the addition 
 only of some leeks to your fish. This matelot is never 
 used with butter and flour browned. Leave your fish 
 whole. 
 
PORTUGUESE COOKERY. 44] 
 
 LAMPREYS, THE PorTuGUESE Way.—Your lampreys 
 being scalded and cleaned, as they do. tenches; cut them 
 lengthwise; place them in a stew-pan, with some red 
 wine and a lemon sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bit of 
 sugar, a spoonful of oil, a lump of butter, some nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt. Then boil the whole on a brisk fire; 
 put in some onions, garlic, and parsley, cut small. 
 When you are ready to serve up, take out the bunch of 
 herbs; put a great deal of juice in your ragoit. 
 
 Portucaut Tart.— Skirt a small pie-dish with puff 
 paste, place in it a dozen stewed pippins, over them a 
 layer of apricot jam, then make the following custard : 
 boil in a pint of new milk four bitter almonds, a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar, and a small stick of cinnamon; 
 mix the milk, &c., with the yolks of twelve eggs, and 
 pon it over the apples, jam, &c., and bake it half an 
 
 our. 
 
 FLANK oF APPLE, THE PoRTUGUESE WAy.—Turn 
 thirty apples, with a scoop cut out the cores of ten of 
 them; put these in a sugar pan, with a light syrup made 
 of six ounces of sugar; let them be done rather firm; 
 chop the rest small, and boil them to a firm marmalade 
 in the syrup of the first, with the zest of an orange 
 chopped very fine; stir, that they may not stick to the 
 bottom; pass them through a hair sieve, and add two 
 spoonfuls of apricot marmalade to them. Make half a 
 pound of good paste, cut the sheet round, turn it up 
 two inches all round, lightly pinch and decorate the rim; 
 put four spoonfuls of marmalade in this, then the turned 
 apples, filled with apricot; add the rest of the marma- 
 lade so as not to mask them; put buttered paper round 
 the paste, and bake the flank three quarters of an hour; 
 egg it, and dry it in the oven, strew fine sugar over it, 
 and glaze it with the salamander. To serve, garnish 
 with a few spoonfuls of apple jelly, quince, or apricot 
 marmalade. A preserved cherry may be put on each 
 apple. 
 
 ComporTe or APPLES, THE PoRTUGUESE WAy.—Cut 
 your apples into halves, put them in a silver plate or 
 
442 PORTUGUESE COOKERY. 
 
 dish, strew sugar under and over, let them stew gently: 
 they must not boil; put fire under and over till the 
 sugar is pretty brown, and turned into caramel: serve 
 ‘up your compote as hot as possible. If you stew your 
 apples in a baking-pan, take them out hot, and put them 
 in a dish. These apples are stewed in the same manner 
 whole, being hollowed in the middle and the core taken 
 out, putting into them a little sugar or jelly of currants, 
 or other sweet meat. You may also cut small some 
 apples, add to them a little sugar, rasped lemon-peel 
 and a dust of pounded cinnamon ; this being well mixed 
 together, fill your apples with it, and stew them the same 
 as before. 
 
 To MAKE PoruLo.—Populo is a thin and light rosa- 
 soly very fine and sweet to drink, and is made after the 
 following manner :—take three pints of water, boil. it, 
 and when cool, put in it a pint of clarified sugar, half a 
 glass of essence of distilled anniseed, as much essence 
 of cinnamon, and a very little of pounded musk and 
 amber prepared, and which must be hardly perceived. 
 And thus they make the true populo, observing farther, 
 as with all other rosasolis, not to boil the sugar too 
 much in clarifying it, because it will turn candied. in 
 the rosasoly, and make it darkish. The populo of Mar- 
 seilles is subject to corruption, because it is made with 
 cold water, instead of being boiled. 
 
 Re la 
 
443 
 
 HUNGARIAN COOKERY. 
 
 SoLEs In THE Hunearian Move (Soles a la Hon- 
 groise).—The soles being prepared as directed in the 
 article Soles a la Germanique, pour a spoonful of boil- 
 ing consomme into the kettle to obtain all the essence, 
 which reduce to a demi-glaze, and pass it through a 
 tammy into a small stew-pan containing a sauce of Hock 
 wine for pike, and to which add the soft lobes of six 
 dozen oysters blanched, forty button mushrooms, with 
 their liquor, four ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of 
 nutmeg: this ragotit should not boil lest the oysters 
 become hard; pour two-thirds of it over the soles, 
 and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. 
 
 Peart Barvey Sour, Huncarian Mope—(Potage 
 de V Orge perle a la Hongroise.)—Put one pound of 
 Frankfort pearl-barley in a large basin, with four spoon- 
 fuls of warm water to soak; the day following make the 
 consommé boil, and mix the barley (which you have 
 strained) with it, stirring it that it may not become 
 lumpy; boil it very slowly for two hours, add the white 
 parts of six leeks and of two heads of celery cut in small 
 fillets as for the Julienne; mix two spoonfuls of flour 
 with some cold consommé, which add as in the first 
 article; add a little sugar and some nutmeg’; boil the 
 soup gently for an hour, skim it and serve. 
 
444 
 
 AMERICAN, SWISS, AND FLEMISH 
 COOKERY. 
 
 TurTLe Sour, AMERICAN MopE (Potage de Tortue 
 al Americaine).—The Americans proceed in the pre- 
 paration of the turtle as described in the chapter on 
 English soups, but add fillets of anchovies, which must 
 necessarily change its flavour; but this soup is as follows : 
 —having skinned an eel, cut it in small lengths, slice a 
 carrot, onion, pottle of BR Boh on and parsley-roots, 
 and sweat them in clarified butter ; add a bay-leaf, thyme, 
 basil, a pinch of grated nutmeg, Cayenne, and allspice, 
 half a bottle of Champagne, and the trimmings of the 
 eel ; boil slowly for an hour, and strain through a silk 
 sieve upon the escalopes of eel, which boil gently for 
 half an hour, then drain and lay them in the tureen, 
 which put into the hot closet; reduce their liquor to 
 half glaze, and addit to a turtle-soup, prepared as in the 
 article Potage Tortue ala Francaise. 
 
 Swiss Custarps (Flan a la Suisse).—Put in a large 
 stew-pan a little more than two quarts of good milk, 
 and eight ounces of fresh butter ; when it boils, take it 
 off, and add from eighteen to twenty ounces of fine- 
 sifted flour, and work well with a wooden spoon; the 
 paste should be somewhat soft, and not lumpy; dry it 
 four or five minutes over a moderate fire ; ; change the 
 paste into another stew-pan ; mix with it six ounces of 
 fresh butter, and one pound of Gruyére cheese grated, 
 and a small Viry cheese, a large pinch of the syrup 
 through a sieve, and reduce it to a jelly, as usually 
 done: boil well some rice, and add to it twelve ounces 
 
FLEMISH COOKERY, 445 
 
 of muscadel, or Smyrna raisins, or currants; arrange 
 the rice and apricots in layers, pouring on each layer 
 two or three spoonfuls of the syrup, or else preserve 
 it to mask the flan at the moment of serving; but the 
 best method is to mix it with the fruit; peaches, plums 
 and cherries may be thus served. . 
 
 Eees, Swiss Fasuron.—Ueat butter very hot in a 
 dish, drop eggs whole into it, and having breaded them, 
 and powdered them with a hash of pike and rasped 
 cheese, give them a fine colour. 
 
 FLEemisH Sour.—Slice six onions; cut six heads of 
 celery into small pieces, and slice about twelve potatoes; 
 put about a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew- 
 pan, and half a pint of water; set it ona stove to boil 
 very slow for an hour; then fill up the stew-pan with 
 stock; let it boil an hour, or until the potatoes, &c., 
 are dissolved ; then rub it through a tammy, and put a 
 pint of cream; put it into a small soup-pot to keep hot ; 
 the cream should be boiled before it is put to the soup. 
 
 N. B. If for meagre, use water instead of stock. 
 
446 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 es 
 
 To MAKE CorrsE, by a simple and good method.— 
 Pour boiling water in the proportion of six cupfuls to 
 one cupful of freshly-ground coffee. Let this be on the 
 point of boiling for two or three minutes, held over the 
 fire, and taken off at pleasure, so as to keep up the 
 temperature, but not to permit any violent ebullition. 
 Pour out a cupful two or three times, returning it ; and 
 set the coffee-pot on the hob to keep hot, while the 
 coffee clears. By attending to the above receipt, no 
 isinglass, whites of eggs, &c., will be required to clear it. 
 The bad quality of English coffee is become a sort of 
 national reproach. Its capital defect is a want of 
 material, or that material having either lain too long in 
 powder, or in roasted berries. Coldness is the reproach 
 of our coffee even more than muddiness. The coffee- 
 berries ought also to be of proper age, as the quality of 
 the raw berry improves by keeping for three or four 
 years. Good cream is essential to good English coffee. 
 Lisbon sugar, or pounded white candy, is often ordered. 
 We can see no reason for this, except that they dissolve 
 quickly, notwithstanding the cream being usually poured 
 into the dishes before the hot coffee. 
 
 To MAKE CorreE (Another way).—Put two ounces 
 of fresh-ground coffee, of the best quality, imto a coffee- 
 pot, and pour eight coffee-cups of boiling water on it ; 
 let it boil six minutes, pour out a cupful two or three 
 
 <= ae Wiha 
 nite leet ea a 
 
 LS SE ES RP ire os ee 
 
 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 447 
 
 times, and return it again; then put two or three 
 isinglass chips into it, and pour one large spoonful of 
 boiling water on it ; boil it five minutes more, and set 
 the pot by the fire to keep hot for ten minutes, and 
 you will have coftee of a beautiful clearness. 
 
 To MAKE CHOocoLATE.—Boil equal quantities of good 
 new milk and water. Scrape down the chocolate ac- 
 cording to the strength and quantity wanted, and take 
 the milk and water off the fire. Throw in the chocolate 
 and sugar, and mill it well and rapidly, that it may be 
 served with the froth on it, and completely blended with 
 the milk. Chocolate is sometimes made in gruel for 
 delicate persons. Where much is used, it is thought an 
 economical plan to make a pint of very strong chocolate, 
 and to boil up a couple or three spoonfuls of this in milk, 
 water, and sugar, as it is wanted, milling it well. It is 
 best fresh made, if possible. 
 
 Arrow-roor Jetty.—Of this beware of having the 
 wrong sort, for it has been counterfeited with bad effect. 
 If genuine, it is very nourishing, especially for weak 
 bowels. Put into a sauce-pan half a pint of water, a 
 glass of sherry or a spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, 
 and fine sugar; boil once up, then mix it by degrees 
 into a dessert-spoonful of arrow-root, previously rubbed 
 smooth, with two spoonfuls of cold water ; then return 
 the whole into the sauce-pan ; stir and boil it three 
 minutes. 
 
 Tapioca JELLY.—Choose the largest sort; pour cold 
 water on to wash it, two or three times; then soak it in 
 fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in the same 
 until it become quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, 
 and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. 
 It thickens very much. 
 
 Meat Cuspspusep,—A Goop DINNER FoR AN INvaA- 
 Lip.—Cut veal, beef, or mutton, lean but juicy, into 
 small bits. Beat them slightly; run them on wire 
 skewers, and fasten these to the roasting-jack. Baste 
 well with their own drippings, using a little butter at 
 
448 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 first; dust with salt when ready, and pepper or curry- — 
 
 powder, at discretion. Serve either with grilled toasts 
 or dry rice. 
 
 A chicken or rabbit may be skinned, quartered, and 7 
 
 done as above. Cubbubed curry is made as any other 
 curry, but half of the meat is pork, fresh or pickled, and 
 more garlic and turmeric than are ever employed in our 
 eookery. Fresh pork in any form of fry or curry is not 
 relished in this country, and is seldom seen, save perhaps 
 of necessity, on board of ship. If for a landward 
 dinner, we would recommend a large allowance of acid. 
 
 To ScaLtp CREAM, AS IN THE WEST OF ENGLAND. 
 —In winter let the milk stand twenty-four hours, in the 
 summer twelve at least; then put the pan on a hot 
 hearth, if you have one; if not, set it im a wide brass 
 kettle of water, large enough to receive the pan. It 
 must remain on the fire till quite hot, but on no account 
 boil, or there will be a skin instead of a cream upon 
 
 milk. You will know when done enough, by the undu- — 
 
 lations on the surface looking thick, and having a ring 
 round the pan the size of the bottom. The time re- 
 quired to scald cream depends on the size of the pan, 
 and the heat of the fire; the slower the better. Re- 
 move the pan into the dairy when done, and skim it 
 next day. In cold weather it may stand thirty-six 
 hours, and never less than two meals. The butter is 
 usually made in Devonshire of cream thus prepared, and 
 if properly it is very firm. 
 
 -Huncary Water.—To one pint of highly-rectified 
 spirits of wine put an ounce of oil of rosemary, and two 
 drachms of essence of ambergris; shake the bottle well 
 several times, then let the cork remain out twenty-four 
 hours. After a month, during which time shake it 
 daily, put the water into small bottles. — 
 
 Honey Warer.—Take a pint of spirit as above, 
 and three drachms of essence of ambergris; shake them 
 well, daily. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER.—Take a pint of spirit as above, 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 449 
 
 essential of lavender one ounce, essence of ambergris 
 two drachms; put all into a quart-bottle, and shake it 
 extremely well. 
 
 Fumicgating Mixture ror Sick CHAMBERS.— 
 Two ounces of salt dried, two ditto of nitre. Mix and 
 ‘put to them in a stoneware basin or plate, half an ounce 
 of water, and the same quantity of good sulphuric acid. 
 Remove all polished-metal articles from the room, as the 
 vapour would rust them, and close all doors and win- 
 dows. To procure more advantage, when the process 
 appears to cease, place the basin on hot sand. 
 
 To Crean Prats. — Boil an ounce of prepared 
 hartshorn-powder in a quart of water; while on the 
 fire, put into it as much plate as the vessel will hold ; 
 let it boil a little, then take it out, drain it over the 
 sauce-pan, and dry it before the fire. Put in more, and 
 serve the same, till you have done. Then put into the 
 water some clean linen rags, till all be soaked up. 
 When dry, they will serve to clean the plate, and are 
 the very best things to clean the brass locks, and finger- 
 plates of doors. When the plate is quite dry, it must 
 be rubbed bright with leather. This is a very nice 
 mode. In many plate-powders there is a mixture of 
 quicksilver, which is very injurious; and, among other 
 disadvantages, it makes silver so brittle, that from a fall 
 it will break. 
 
 Waite Wine Wuey.—Put half a pint of new milk 
 on the fire ; the moment it boils up, pour in as much 
 good raisin wine as will completely turn it, and it looks 
 clear ; let it boil up,. then set the sauce-pan aside till 
 the curd subsides, but do not stir it. Pour the whey 
 off, and add to it half a pint of boiling water, and a bit 
 of white sugar. Thus you will have a whey perfectly 
 cleared of milky particles, and as: weak as you choose to 
 make it. 
 
 A Most PLEASANT Drink. — Put a tea-cupful. of 
 cranberries into a cup of water, and mash them. In 
 the mean time boil two quarts of water with one large 
 
 2G 
 
450 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 spoonful of oatmeal and a bit of lemon-peel ; then add 
 the cranberries, and as much fine Lisbon sugar as shall. 
 leave a smart flavour of the fruit; and a quarter of a 
 pint of sherry, or less, as may be proper ; boil all for 
 half an hour, and strain off. 
 
 For cHaprep Lips.—Put a quarter of an ounce of 
 benjamin, storax, and spermaceti, twopenny-worth of 
 alkanet-root, a large juicy apple chopped, a bunch of 
 black grapes bruised, a quarter of a pound of unsalted 
 butter, and two ounces of bees’-wax, into a new tin 
 sauce-pan. Mix well, and let it remain till cold. A 
 little to be applied on going to bed. 
 
 To cLEAN CARPETS.—Take up the carpet, let it be 
 well beaten, then well brushed on both sides with a 
 hand-brush ; turn it the right side upwards, and scour it 
 
 with ox-gall, and soap and water, very clean, and dry it. 
 
 with linen cloths. Then lay it on grass, or hang it up 
 to dry. 
 
 Grapes IN Branpy.—Pick thoroughly some good 
 sound grapes, put them into bottles with clarified sugar, 
 fill them up with brandy, and stop them close. Ver- 
 juice may be done in the same manner; but before they 
 
 are put into the bottles, throw them into boiling water, - 
 
 out of which they must be taken directly. | 
 To MAKE ESsENCE OF ALL SORTS OF FLOWERS, TO 
 SERVE TO FLAVOUR LiquEuRS, &c.—Take a pound of 
 flowers, of what sort you please, and put it into an 
 earthen or stone pot or pan, with three pounds of 
 powdered sugar ; then make a layer of sugar, a layer of 
 flowers, and so on, till you have used the whole. This 
 done, cover them up close, and place them in a cool 
 cellar for twenty-four hours, after that let it be placed 
 in the sun or on a stove for twenty hours; after which, 
 let it drain on a sieve (not to be pressed through), and 
 bottle the liquid that comes from it; stop the bottles 
 very close. This can be used to flavour all kinds of 
 liqueurs or other things for which it may be wanted. 
 HERBS, AND WHEN IN SEASON.—Basil is in the best 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 451 
 
 state for drying, from the middle of August and three 
 weeks after. Knotted marjoram, from the beginning of 
 July and during that month. Orange-thyme, in June 
 and July. Mint, the latter end of June and during July. 
 Sage, in August and September. Chervil, in May, June, 
 and July. ‘Tarragon, in June, July, and August. Pars- 
 ley, fennel, elder-flowers, and orange-flowers, in Ma 
 June, and July. Savoury (summer) end of July and 
 throughout August. Savoury (winter) end of July and 
 throughout August. 
 
 To Loosen Guass StorprersS oF BoTrLEs.—With a 
 feather rub a drop or two of salad oil round the stopper, 
 close to the mouth of the bottle or decanter, which must 
 then be placed before the fire, at a short distance ; the 
 heat will cause the oil to insinuate itself between the 
 stopper and the neck. When the bottle or decanter has 
 grown warm, gently strike the stopper first on one side, 
 and then on the other, with) any light wooden instru- 
 ment ; then try it with the hand: if it will not yet 
 move, place it again before the fire, adding another drop 
 of oil. After a while strike again as before; and by 
 persevering in this process, however tightly it may be 
 fastened in, you will at length succeed in loosening it. 
 
 - To MAKE EXCELLENT STARCH FROM PoTATOES.— 
 Wash potatoes well in clean water, so that not the least 
 earth or dirt may be left upon them, pare them lightly, 
 or scrape them so as not to let the least skin remain. 
 Then take several earthen pans, half filled with pure 
 water, and a tin grater as fine as those used for grating 
 sugar. Rest the grater upon the bottom of the earthen 
 pan in the water, and thereon grate the potatoes as you 
 do citrons and quinces, moistening them from time to 
 time, and taking care not to press the potatoes too hard 
 upon the grater. The grated potato will sink to the 
 bottom ; when the pans are all filled let them stand till 
 they be well settled, then pour off the water by inclining 
 them very gently, lest the finest part of the grated 
 substance should run off along with the water. The 
 2G2 
 
452 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 grated potato may then be put into fewer pans, each. 
 
 being filled within four or five fingers’ breadth of the 
 top, and then filled up with pure water. Let the matter 
 be well stirred about and washed, and when it has stood 
 to settle, let the pan be inclined, and the water poured 
 off as before. These lotions, with fresh, clear water, 
 must be several times repeated, till at length the grated 
 potato will become as white as snow, and incomparably 
 fine and small, and not run into little lumps or masses, 
 like the common starch. These are the signs of its 
 being sufficiently washed and ready to set out to dry in 
 the sun. Meate dic 
 
 To PRESERVE CREAM FOR SEVERAL Monrtus.-—Dis- 
 solve twelve ounces of white sugar in the smallest possible 
 quantity of water, over a moderate fire. After the 
 solution has taken place, the sugar ought to be boiled 
 for about two minutes in an earthen vessel, when twelve 
 ounces of new cream should be immediately added, and 
 the whole thoroughly mixed while hot. Let it then 
 gradually cool, and pour it into a bottle, which must be 
 carefully corked. If kept in»a cool place, and not ex- 
 posed to the air, it may be preserved in a sweet state for 
 several weeks, and even months ; and as sugar is com- 
 
 monly wanted when there is occasion for cream, the 
 
 cream is thus preserved without any sort of additional 
 expense. 3 
 
 To PRESERVE PoTATOES FROM FRosT.—The method, 
 as recommended by the Board of Agriculture, is to dig 
 in a very dry spot, trenches, six feet wide and. eighteen 
 inches deep ; spread straw, to pile the potatoes into the 
 shape of the roof of a house, and to cover tight and close 
 with straw, six inches thick, and then with earth, fifteen 
 to eighteen inches more, flatted: regularly and firmly, 
 and sharp at top, raised from three to five feet above 
 ground. If there should be any apprehensions of 
 moisture, dig a trench at a few yards off, deeper than 
 that in which the potatoes are laid. The-drier they are, 
 when thus packed up, the safer they will be. 
 
 
 
 eh Rha RIE GE IEE hs rp he RES sie 
 

 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 453 
 
 To PREVENT THE FREEZING OF WATER IN Piprs IN 
 Winter.—By tying up the ball cock, during the frost, 
 the freezing of pipes will often be prevented ; in fact, it 
 will always be prevented where the main pipe is higher 
 than the cistern or other reservoir, and the pipe is laid in 
 a regular inclination from one to the other, for then no 
 water can remain in the pipe; or if the main is lower 
 than the cistern, and the pipe regularly inclines, upon 
 the supply ceasing, the pipe will immediately exhaust 
 itself into the main. Where water is in the pipes, if each 
 cock is left a little dripping, this circulation of the water 
 will frequently prevent the pipes from being: frozen. 
 
 To Curr THE Rinc-worm.—The following may be 
 applied night and morning :— 
 
 Tincture of muriated iron, two drachms ; water, two 
 ounces. Mix well, and bathe the ring-worm with it. 
 
 Or the following ointment may be used :— 
 
 White precipitate powder,* twenty grains; refined 
 sugar of lead, ten grains; hog’s-lard, one ounce. Well 
 mixed. The ring-worm to be rubbed with a little night 
 and morning. 
 
 The following opening’ powder may be given in the 
 
 morning once or twice a week :— 
 
 Calomel, one grain; powdered jalap, eight grains. 
 To be well mixed, and taken in a little milk or sugar 
 and water. 
 
 Essence oF Soar For SHAviING.—Rub well in a 
 marble mortar an ounce of Castile soap, with two drachms 
 of salt of tartar; add by degrees half a pint of fine laven- 
 der-water, with two grains of camphor dissolved in it. 
 When the whole is well incorporated together, filter it, 
 and keep it in closely-stopped bottles: For use, put ten 
 drops into a small wine-glassful of water ; dip the shay- 
 ing-brush into the water, and by rubbing it on the face, 
 a fine lather will be immediately obtained. 
 
 * The white precipitate powder is a poison, and must be care- 
 fully secured from all accident. 
 
454 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 To REMOVE IRON-MOULDS FROM LiINEN.—Tartaric 
 
 acid, half an ounce, three pence; powdered salt of sorrel, 
 half an ounce, one penny. Mix; use it thus: put boil- 
 ing water into a basin; then put a pewter plate upon it; 
 wet the spot with water; dip your finger into the powder, 
 or put a small quantity to the spot ; rub it gently, and 
 the ink, or iron, or iron-mould, will entirely disappear 
 without any injury to the lace, lawn, muslin, &c. 
 
 To WasH GoLpD ORNAMENTS.—Warm suds of deli- 
 cate soap, with ten or fifteen drops of sal volatile in it. 
 
 How ro Destroy Bues.—Spirits of wine and spirits 
 of turpentine of equal quantities; put this on with a brush 
 to every part of the furniture, where there is an angle or 
 crevice, applying a light to it immediately. This only 
 will effectually kill the vermin and their eggs; no dan- 
 ger need be apprehended, if proper caution be used, nor 
 will it leave the least trace or mark, if the spirits be good. 
 The bed curtains should be previously taken to pieces ; 
 and when put up again, it is advisable to anoint all the 
 joining with the following mixture :—quarter of a pound 
 of pounded stavesacre, one pound of soft soap, boiled one 
 hour in chamber-ley to the consistency of cream ; with 
 this, the low edge of the plinth where it unites with the 
 floor should be well washed. The hems of the bed-fur- 
 niture, and the edges of the beds and mattresses may be 
 lightly touched with spirits of wine alone, and then fired 
 with good effect, so also must the sacking bottom, and 
 its hems, and holes. Lath bottoms are far preferable to 
 beds. 
 
 ANOTHER Recrret For Destroyina Bucs.—Mer- 
 curial ointment mixed with spirits of turpentine and soft 
 soap to the consistency of cream, and applied to the va- 
 rious parts of the room and.furniture. 
 
 A Cure For CuHiLBLAINs.— Strong white mustard 
 pounded, mixed with water to the consistence of thick 
 cream, rubbed on every night, letting it dry on the chil- 
 blain, and washing: it off in the morning with rain-water. 
 
 CurE For Corns.—Powdered unslaked quick-lime 
 
 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 455 
 
 made into a paste with sweet oil, and applied every 
 night on a piece of rag, washing it off every morning. 
 To be continued for some time. 
 
 RecererT ror Frencu Poxisn.—One quart of recti- 
 fied spirits of wine, two ounces of seed lac, one ounce of 
 shellac, one ounce of gum sandarach, one ounce of gum 
 copal, one ounce of camphor. Pound the gums, and 
 put the whole into a stone bottle; cork it securely and 
 place the bottle in hot water, shaking it often till all be 
 dissolved. A very small quantity is said to be used at a 
 time, and only a small surface of the furniture is covered 
 with the liquid, and that to be rubbed off immediately ; 
 a little more is then applied, which is also rubbed off, 
 and this is repeated till the desired polish is attained; 
 and so continue till the whole is polished. 
 
 A WATER TO TAKE OUT SPOTS OF GREASE, OIL, OR 
 Pircu, FROM LINEN or Srurrs.—Two quarts of spring 
 water, a little fine white potash, about the size of a 
 walnut, and a lemon cut in slices; mix well together, 
 and let it stand twenty-four hours in the sun, strain it 
 off, and bottle the clear for use. As soon as the spot is 
 taken out of any article, wash the same with cold water; 
 for clothes of a deep colour add a little water to the 
 mixture. . 
 
 CHELSEA PENSIONER FOR RHEUMATISM. — Gum 
 guiacum one drachm, sulphur two ounces, ginger one 
 drachm, cream of tartar one ounce, rhubarb two drachms, 
 nutmeg one drachm. Mix all together in a pound of 
 honey; take two tea-spoonfuls every night, and, if in 
 pain, every morning. 
 
 For 4 Coip.—Equal proportions of paregoric, spirits 
 of sweet nitre, and balsam of Tolu. Take about thirty 
 drops of it in a little water at night going to bed, and 
 the first thing in the morning. 
 
 Bartey Water.—Put two table-spoonfuls of pearl 
 barley with the peel of one lemon, and of half an orange 
 into a jug, and pour upon it a quart of boiling water ; 
 add the juice of one lemon and three oranges; and half 
 
456 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 a pound of loaf sugar. Let it stand an hour and a half 
 closely covered up, stirring it occasionally. 
 
 STRENGTHENING BirreR.—Gentian root, sliced, two 
 drachms ; quassia, half a drachm; boiling water, one 
 pint. To stand in a covered vessel till cold, then add to 
 it a little sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. 
 Two or three table-spoonfuls to be taken once or twice a 
 day. 
 
 iter A CovucH.—One drachm of powdered nitre in a 
 pint of bean tea; sweeten it with honey or sugar candy. 
 
 Lone Lire.—One ounce of best Turkey rhubarb, one 
 ounce of Jamaica ginger, half an ounce of fresh powdered 
 cardamoms, half an ounce of essence of peppermint; 
 mix well with one pound of brown sugar over a slow 
 fire, and make into tablets in a dish or plate. 
 
 Istncuass JELLY.—Take one ounce of isinglass, one 
 quart of water, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves; boil 
 to a pint; then strain the liquor through a flannel bag, 
 upon four ounces of double refined sugar, and one gill of 
 mountain wine; when they are well mixed, pour the 
 jelly into glasses. 
 
 Harrsuorn Jevity.—To four quarts of barley water, 
 add half a pound of hartshorn shavings; boil away to 
 half that quantity ; then strain, and add sugar enough 
 to make it of an agreeable sweetness. 
 
 Tapioca JELLY.—Take one ounce of the best tapioca, 
 mix it with a pint and a half of pure spring water; and 
 when it has stood cold an hour, then boil: it about an 
 hour on a clear, gentle fire ; stirring well until it is dis- 
 solved, and become transparent near the end of the 
 boiling ; add two tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice, a little of 
 the peel, and a tea-spoonful of salt, sugar sufficient to 
 suit the taste; strain off through a sieve, add three or 
 four spoonfuls of white wine, a little nutmeg finely 
 grated, mix well, then it will be fit for use. This jelly, 
 when prepared as above directed, is both an agreeable 
 and nutritive aliment, particularly for sick people: the 
 lemon-juice may be omitted, if not agreeable. 
 
 
 
 f 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 457 
 
 GuioucrsTER JELLY.—Take, rice, sago, pearl barley, 
 hartshorn shavings, and eringo-root, of each one ounce; 
 simmer with three pints of water to one pint, and strain 
 it ; when cold, it will be a jelly; of which give, dissolved 
 in wine, milk, or broth, in change with other nourish- 
 ment. 
 
 For WEAK Constrrutions.—Let all the bones of an 
 old fowl be broke, and put in with the flesh, and two 
 pounds of lean beef; and two handfuls of hartshorn 
 shavings, into a pan, with as much water as will 
 thoroughly cover them. Let it simmer, till all the sub- 
 stance of the meat is got out; pour it into a basin, and 
 when wanted, take out a little, and warm it up witha 
 seep salt; it is very nourishing to take a little every 
 
 ay. 
 
 sie cede very NoutriTive.—To one quart of milk 
 add one ounce of isinglass, and simmer it till the isinglass 
 is quite dissolved, stirring it with a spoon all the time it 
 simmers, or the isinglass will stick to the pan; sweeten 
 it to your taste with loaf-sugar, then strain it through a 
 sieve in cups; in the morning set one upon the hob; 
 and, when dissolved, let it be drank ‘in bed for nine 
 mornings; then stop two or three days, and begin 
 again. 
 
 DrrEcTIons FoR BorLine THE INDIAN ARROW-ROOT. 
 —Take a dessert-spoonful of the powder, and mix it 
 with as much cold water as will make it into a soft 
 paste ; then pour in half a pint of boiling water, stirring 
 it at the same time briskly, and it will soon become a 
 clear, smooth jelly ; to which add two or three table- 
 spoonfuls of sherry, a little lemon-peel, and sugar ; 
 lemon or orange-juice may be added, if agreeable; but, 
 for invalids, it is better omitted; and, if intended for 
 ehildren, milk will be more proper than wine and 
 water. 
 
 Lait DE PouLe; or, Hen’s Mi1x.—The yolk of a 
 new-laid egg, beat up in warm water, is called hen’s 
 milk, and taken when going to bed, is good for a cold. 
 
458 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 AwoTHER.—An egg divided, and the yolk and white 
 beaten separately, then tied with a glass of wine, 
 will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove 
 lighter than when taken together. 
 
 An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and 
 mixed with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more 
 supporting than tea alone. 
 
 Lirrte Puppines or RoveuH Cars.—Take a 
 
 int of cream, and melt two ounces of butter in 
 half of it ; the yolks of four eggs, and the whites of 
 two; beat ‘separately first; then beat all well together, 
 with two ounces of flour, and two ounces of pounded 
 white sugar, and the romaine of the cream. Fill 
 the cups three-parts full, and bake, in a quick oven, 
 three-quarters of an hour. You may add a little melted 
 butter, wine, and sugar, for sauce, if agreeable; but it 
 is very good without; and you may take milk, instead 
 of cream, as the latter may be too rich for a weak 
 stomach. 
 
 For A Sore THroat.—Six ounces of butter, well 
 washed, till perfectly free from salt; eight ounces of 
 ‘mutton suet, clarified ; three ounces of best wax ; eight 
 ounces of rosin. Melt these ingredients over a gentle 
 fire, until they are well mixed together ; then put into 
 a gallipot for use. Spread it very thick on apiece of 
 linen-rag, and apply it outside the throat ; renew it in 
 twelve hours, if necessary. 
 
 CHICKEN-FOOT JELLY.—Twelve fresh chickens’ foots 
 scald and peel them; chop and cut them across; put 
 them in water, and boil them slowly, till all the goodness 
 is boiled out ; then strain, and set them by in an earthen 
 vessel, and, hee cold, take off the fat; when the fat is 
 taken off quite len! take the saan and make it a 
 calves’ feet jelly. It must be cleaned in the same way, 
 and flavoured with lemon and wine, or whatever the 
 patient prefers. It is very nice when flavoured with 
 
 apple. 
 RecrirtT ror AN InvAtm.—Half a pint of the best 
 
 
 
 es aa <3 
 
 aN 
 
 — 
 
 ji 
 
 Sagem tage npn 
 
 fis GR RET 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 459 
 
 French brandy, boiled with as much of the coarsest 
 brown sugar as the brandy will imbibe, to make it about 
 the thickness of treacle; boiling the brandy takes away 
 its heating qualities; and this receipt has been of the 
 greatest use to consumptive persons. 
 
 Maur Roie.—Pour boiling water upon high-dried 
 malt; cover it up twenty-four hours ; then put it on the 
 fire till it simmers, stirring it all the while. It should 
 be of the consistence of honey. It will keep for two 
 months, if tied down in a jar. 
 
 Russtan TEa.—Set a quart of milk on the fire ; 
 add a tea-spoonful of good tea when the milk boils ; 
 it must boil for a few minutes, then strain ; add sugar 
 to taste; let it have another boil; while on the fire 
 add a liaison of eggs. This receipt is excellent for colds, 
 coughs, &c. 
 
 Sauce For Asparacus.—Take a spoonful of flour, 
 add three ounces of butter beat to a cream, and the 
 yolks of three eggs; pour over enough of the water in 
 which the asparagus was boiled to bring it to a thin 
 sauce ; let it thicken on the fire, add a little grated nut- 
 meg, and pour it over the asparagus. This will be found 
 to be a great improvement to asparagus. 
 
 Frencu Beans as SALAp.—Take some beans some 
 hours before they are wanted, boil them, let them cool 
 thoroughly ; season them with pepper, salt, and vine- 
 gar, and cover them carefully. Just before serving, 
 let them be well drained, and served with a good sallad 
 sauce. 
 
 NUREMBERG GINGERBREAD Nours.—Take the yolks 
 of eight eggs, and beat them with one pound of sugar 
 for half an hour; the whites are to be beaten to snow, 
 and then stirred in ; chop, when quite dry, half a pound 
 of almonds, and add to the mixture with half a pound 
 of flour, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon-peel cut 
 in pieces, and spice to taste ; knead it well together, and 
 put it into any shapes you please. 
 
 Rum Caxes.—Add to the yolks of twelve eggs well 
 
460 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 beaten, three quarters of a pint of cream, three quarters | 
 
 of a pint of rum, and sugar to taste; a little grated 
 lemon-peel may be added. Butter a mould, pour in the 
 mixture, and bake it till it is quite dry at the top. It 
 may be iced or strewed with sifted sugar, and orna- 
 mented with preserved cherries, &c., or raise whipped 
 cream on the top. 
 
 Sancarin.—To three bottles of red wine add a pint 
 and a half of water, a grated nutmeg, some sugar and 
 cinnamon to taste, set it on the fire, and let it have a 
 good boil: take it off, let it remain covered till cold.— 
 Strain and bottle it. 
 
 ANOTHER Lait DE Poutr.—Beat the yolks of two 
 eggs, with an ounce of sugar and some orange-flower- 
 water, till quite white, then add a glass of boiling water, 
 stirring very quickly, and drinking while hot. 
 
 This is a good receipt for a cold. 
 
 FumicaTine PastTites.—Take eight ounces of hab 
 coal, one ounce of gum-storax, one ounce of gum-mas- 
 tic, one ounce of gum-benzom, and half an ounce of 
 myrrh. The whole to be mixed in boiled starch, and 
 made up in the form of small sugar-loaves. | 
 
 To MAKE SHoEs WATER-PROOF.—Warm the soles 
 of the shoes or boots, and rub them well with tar. Put 
 the shoes at a moderate distance from the fire till the 
 tar has soaked into them. Add a few iron-filings to the 
 tar, if you wish them to be particularly hard and impe- 
 netrable. The smell of the tar will go off by wearing 
 the shoes one day. It may perhaps be necessary to re- 
 new the application twice during the winter. 
 
 Tar-WateER.—Pour a gallon of water on two pounds 
 of Norway tar, and stir it with a stick till thoroughly 
 mixed ; after they have stood to settle for two days, pour 
 off the water for use. 
 
 Lime-W4TeER.—Pour two gallons of water gradually 
 upon a pound of fresh-burnt quick-lime ; and when the 
 ebullition ceases, stir them well together; then let it 
 stand, that the lime may settle; afterwards filter the 
 
 
 
 ~~ 1 ERY Se pate SEBS aE 0 nwntime 
 

 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 461 
 
 liquor through paper, and keep it in vessels closely 
 stopped. The lime-water from calcined oyster-shells is 
 prepared in the same manner. 
 
 To cLEAN PEWTER VESSELS AND Tin Covers.— 
 Keep these always free of damp by wiping and drying 
 them before the fire after they are used. Polish with 
 the finest whitening and sweet oil; water must not be 
 used. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING BRITANNIA-METAL 
 Goops.—Take a piece of fine woollen cloth; upon this 
 put as much sweet oil as will prevent its rubbing 
 dry ;-—with this rub them well on every part, then wipe 
 them smartly with a soft dry linen rag until they are 
 quite clean, and rub them up with soft wash-leather and 
 whitening. This simple method will preserve the colour 
 as long as the articles endure. Washing them in boil- 
 ing water and soap, just before they are rubbed with 
 wash-leather and whitening, will take off the oil more 
 effectually, and make the carving look brighter. 
 
 To PRESERVE GitpInc.—In summer it may be co- 
 vered with slips of soft writing-paper. Never rub gild- 
 ing. Use the bellows and a long soft hair-brush; or, 
 if this will not do, a piece of wadding or some cot- 
 ton-wool. Frames properly gilt will, however, stand 
 cleaning with hot spirits of turpentine, applied with 
 sponge. . 
 
 To cLEAN Looxine-GLASSsES AND PLATE GLASsS.— 
 Wash with warm water and sponge; then wash with 
 spirits of wine, and dust the glass with powdered blue 
 in a rag, and rub it up with a piece of old soft linen, 
 and afterwards with an old silk handkerchief. 
 
 To wash Wine Decanters.— Use lukewarm water, 
 a few bits of soap, and a little pearl ashes, with sponge 
 tied to the end of a stick to rub off the crust that 
 forms on the glass. Rinse and dry them thoroughly. 
 If stoppers are fixed, dip atowel in hot water, and 
 wrap it round the neck of the bottles. Repeat this 
 process till they loosen; or drop a, little sweet oil on the 
 
462 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 necks of the bottles, and leave them before the fire to 
 expand, when the stopper will loosen. ; 
 
 To cLEAN Parnr.—Brush off the dust; and with ~ 
 ox-gall and whitening scour the paint, rubbing it hard — 
 to restore the gloss; or use mottled soap made into a 
 strong: ley, if the only object is to ciean. 
 
 To MAKE ANISEED WATER, OR ANISEED BRANDY. 
 —If you would make it as a great many people like it, 
 
 
 
 take half a pint of distilled essence of aniseed, and put 
 
 it into three quarts of brandy, and one quart of boiled 
 water, and mix them well together. If you would have 
 it sweetened, you will put a pint of clarified sugar, and 
 pass it all through a straining-bag, the same as the 
 others. 
 
 TEA CreamM.—Take a quart of cream, put it over the 
 fire in a stew-pan with a bit of sugar, and about a quar- 
 ter of an ounce of the best tea: let your tea boil in the 
 cream, keep it stirring till it has taken the taste of the 
 tea; then take it off, and take two or three gizzards of _ 
 either fowls or chickens, open them, and take out the — 
 skin, wash it, and cut it small. Then put it in a cup or 
 other vessel, with a glassful of tea cream, and put your 
 cup near the fire, or over hot cinders ; and as soon as it 
 boils put it in your tea cream, and strain it off two or 
 three times into your dish. Put it on hot cinders, cover 
 it with another dish, with fire over it. Your cream being 
 done, put it ina pedi place, and serve. 
 
 If you do your tea cream, au bain marie, break into 
 it six yolks of eggs, and put your dish over a stew-pan 
 full of hot water; let the bottom of your dish touch the 
 water ; cover your cream with another dish with fire over 
 it. Your cream being ready, put it in a cool place, and 
 serve it up either hot or cold. 
 
 AppLE WaTER.—Pare some tart apples; slice heal 
 into a jug, or large tea-pot; put in a small bit of lemon- 
 peel, and pour boiling water over it; let it stand near the 
 fire to keep warm, and it will be fit for use in an hour ; 
 use sugar or not, as agreeable. 
 
 To MAKE Marxine Inx.-—Lunar caustic, fifty grains; 
 
¢ 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 463 
 
 - gum arabic, one drachm; rain water, by measure, 
 
 one ounce; sap green sufficient to colour it pretty 
 strongly. i 
 
 Liquid to wet the cloth with.—Two ounces and a half 
 of sol sodda; one ounce of gum arabic; rain water, by 
 measure, five ounces. 
 
 For A Cotp or Coucu.—To three pints of water, 
 add a quarter pound of large white poppy-heads, without 
 the seeds; let it boil till it is reduced to half the quantity ; 
 strain it, and squeeze the heads to get out the juice; let 
 it boil again, till it is reduced to half the quantity, that 
 is, three-quarters of a pint ; then add half a pound of 
 moist sugar, and half a pint of white wine vinegar; let 
 it boil till it becomes a syrup; add as much elixir of vi- 
 triol as will make it agreeably acid. Three tea-spoon- 
 fuls to be taken at bed-time, and two in the morning. 
 If the feet are put in warm water, not too hot, the bed 
 warmed, and a warm drink taken, the remedy will be 
 more certain. 
 
 ANOTHER GINGER BeER.—To a quarter of a pound 
 of ginger, add two pounds and a half of lump sugar with 
 the juice and peel of two good lemons ; put all together 
 into a pan ; pour on it two gallons of boiling water; let 
 it stand till nearly cold; put to it three spoonfuls of 
 yeast, stirring it round a few times; let it remain till the 
 next day; take off the scum with a spoon, strain it and 
 bottle it; it will be fit to drink the next day.. You need 
 not wire the corks, if drank immediately. 
 
 To Make Cotp Cream.—Melt two ounces of white 
 wax, with six ounces of oil of sweet almonds, over a very 
 gentle fire, and pour it into a large basin or marble mor- 
 tar, stirring it till it is grown cold gradually ; add a pint 
 of rose-water, beating the whole briskly together, that 
 the water may be perfectly incorporated with the oint- 
 ment; it should be kept covered with rose-water. 
 
 Receret To Ciean PLatEe.—Two ounces of quick- 
 silver, one ounce of crocus, four ounces of hartshorn balls. 
 Mix the crocus and the quicksilver well in a mortar, and 
 
464 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 then the hartshorn balls; and add to it half a pound of © 
 whitening ; then divide it into two parcels, and keep one 
 parcel for the first cleaning ; to the other half, adda ~ 
 pound of whitening to finish cleaning it; rub it well with 
 
 a brush, which ought to be made wet with spirits of : | 
 
 wine. g 
 For Cuaprep Hanps.—Take half a pint of the best — 
 
 double-distilled rose-water, and seven grains of salt of 
 tartar ; shake them well; add half an ounce of oil of al- © 
 monds. When mixed all together, it is fit for use, the ~ 
 
 salt of tartar put in last. 
 Dr. Turtron’s RECEIPT TO MAKE ORGEAT. Bales 
 an ounce and a half of sweet almonds, with nine or ten 
 
 bitter ones; beat them in a marble mortar with a little ~ 
 
 orange-flower-water, till they become a very fine paste; 
 then mix them i in a quart of barley- -water ; sweeten it 
 with a lump or two of sugar; strain through a piece of — 
 muslin. The almonds must be blanched, and the barley- 
 water cold before you mix it with the alnaarielts z 
 
 To MAKE Emutsion ror A Coucu.—Two spoonfuls — 
 of spring water, two of peppermint water, and four of oil ¢ 
 of sweet almonds. Mix them well in a basin; then drop 
 in one tea-spoonful of hartshorn, stirring it ae all the 
 time. | 
 
 To MAKE LAVENDER-WATER.—To a pint of rectified — 
 spirits of wine, put a shilling’s worth of essence of laven- 
 der, and sixpenny-worth of oil of amber; shake it in the 
 bottle every day for a fortnight. Let it stand three — 
 months before you use it. | 
 
 FRITTERS WITHOUT Ea@oas.—Mix as much fine flour 
 into half a pint of ale that is not bitter as will make it 
 into a batter rather thicker than common pudding-bat- 
 ter, a little salt, and some grated ginger; beat it up 
 quick, and drop it into boiling lard. 
 
 To CieAan Boot-Trors.—One ounce: of spirits of salts, 
 half an ounce of oil of vitriol, and a quart of vinegar whey, 
 which will cost ninepence. Mix all these together. 
 
 The above makes the leather of a very light shade, 
 
 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 465 
 
 but some lavender drops added, brings it to a darker 
 shade. 
 
 When very dirty, rub two pieces of Bath brick over 
 the part when wetted with the above, and wash it with a 
 hard brush with clear water. 
 
 To make British CHAMPAGNE.—Take gooseberries 
 before they grow ripe; crush them with a mallet in a 
 wooden bowl, and to every gallon of fruit put a gallon of 
 water ; let it stand two days, stirring it well, squeeze the 
 mixture well with your hands through a hop sieve ; then 
 measure your liquor, and to every gallon put three pounds 
 and a half of loaf sugar ; mix it well in the tub, and let 
 it stand one day; put a bottle of the best brandy into 
 the cask ; leave the cask open five or six weeks, taking 
 off the scum as it rises ; then do it up, and let it stand 
 one year in the barrel ; before bottled, one pint of brandy 
 is put to seven gallons of liquor. 
 
 To mAkE Honrycoms GINGERBREAD.—- Half a pound 
 of flour, half a pound of moist sugar, quarter of a pound 
 of butter rubbed into the flour, quarter of a pound of 
 ginger, one lemon grated, and all the juice. Mix with 
 the paste as much treacle as will make ii thin enough to 
 drop on tins, which must be well buttered, and the paste 
 spread on with a knife as thin as possible; it must be 
 baked in a moderate oven. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY WiINE.—To every pound of gooseberries, 
 when picked and bruised, put one quart of cold water ; 
 let it stand three days, stirring it twice a day. To every 
 ‘gallon of juice, when strained, put three pounds of loaf 
 sugar; put it into the barrel immediately, and to every 
 twelve quarts of liquor add a bottle of brandy, and put a 
 bunch of isinglass into the vessel. Keep it a year in the 
 cask, unless you find by pegging it, that the sweetness is 
 
 oing off, in that case bottle sooner. The gooseberries 
 should be full grown, but not turned, and made by ale 
 measure, 
 
 AnoTHER Honrycomp GINGERBREAD. — Half a 
 pound of flour, half a pound of moist sugar, a quarter 
 
 2H 
 
466 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 of a pound of butter, rub into the flour a quarter of 
 an ounce of ginger, one lemon grated, and all the juice 
 mixed with the paste, as much treacle as will make it 
 thin enough to drop upon tins, which must be well 
 buttered, andthe paste spread on with a knife as thin 
 as possible. 
 
 It must be baked in a moderate oven. When cool 
 enough it must be taken off with a knife: it will grow 
 crisp as it cools. ; 
 
 RECEIPT TO MAKE THE STRAW VARNISH.—Take a 
 quarter of a pound of gum sanderich, the whitest you 
 can get, beat it toa fine powder, and put it into a 
 wide mouth bottle, that you may be able to stir it about 
 with a stick; add to it a pint of rectified spirits of wine 
 and three ounces of rectified spirits of turpentine; stir 
 the whole together till it is dissolved, then strain it 
 through a cloth for use: if you do not want it solid add 
 
 half a spoonful of essence of turpentine ; keep the bottle © 
 
 well corked up. Moisten some French chalk, and lay 
 it on it for a short time, and rub it about with a very 
 fine cloth to polish it. 
 
 To CLEAN ALABASTER on Marsie.—Beat pumice- 
 stones to a fine powder, and mix it up with verjuice ; 
 let it stand two hours; then dip into it a sponge, and 
 rub the marble; then wash it with a linen cloth and 
 fresh water, and dry it with clean linen rags. 
 
 CoLOURING TO STAIN JELLIES, IcEs, oR CAKES.— 
 For a beautiful red boil fifteen grains of cochineal, in 
 the finest powder, with a drachm and a half of cream of 
 tartar in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an hour; 
 add, in boiling, a bit of alum the size of a pea, or use 
 beet-root sliced, and some liquor poured over it. 
 
 For white, use the yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron 
 steeped in the liquor and squeezed. 
 
 For green, spinach leaves or beet leaves ; express the 
 juice, and boil it in a tea-cup in a sauce-pan, to take off 
 the rawness. 
 
 To TAKE Stains out or MArsie.—Mix unslaked 
 
 
 
 — nae . —— 
 ee eee 
 
 
 
 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 467 
 
 lime, in finest powder, with stronger soap ley, pretty 
 thick, and instantly with a painter’s brush lay it on 
 the whole of the marble; in two months’ time wash it off 
 perfectly clean; then have ready a fine thick lather of 
 soft soap boiled in soft water; dip a brush in it, and 
 scour the marble with powder, not as common cleaning. 
 This will, by very good rubbing, give a beautiful polish. 
 
 Clear off the soap, and finish with a smooth hard 
 brush. 
 
 2un 2 
 
468 
 
 WINES. 
 
 
 
 CHOICE OF WINE CELLARS. 
 
 Aut who purchase wine for their own consumption, 
 says Cyrus Redding, in his excellent book, Every Man 
 his own Butler, should have a cellar to hold it, just as 
 one who has taken to himself a wife, should get a suitable 
 dwelling for her reception. Both in one case and the 
 other, this matter is of great importance. Much wine 
 
 is injured beyond recovery from not being deposited in a — 
 
 situation adapted for its perfect preservation. 
 
 Wine-cellars must neither be bed-rooms, parlour cup- 
 boards, nor cock-lofts, but as the critic would say, must 
 consist of ‘“‘the proper thing in the proper place ;” 2 an 
 fact, that a cellar must be a cellar, in material, site, tem- 
 perature, and solidity of construction. 
 
 It is incredible how soon the finer wines deteriorate 
 in bad localities, while the southern do not appear to 
 contract injury, and hence such fine wines, from their 
 greater susceptibility of change, on the mischief being 
 found to attach to them alone, are thought to be them- 
 selves in fault. But the better wines of Spain and Por- 
 tugal, very fine Oporto in particular, too frequently 
 exhibit symptoms of similar disarrangement from no 
 obvious reason, and the guess applied is generally to any 
 but the real cause. Turbidness, ropiness, the approach 
 of putrefactive fermentations, vitiated flavours, may all 
 arise from the defect of the locality in which wines are 
 stored up. 
 
 Choose your cellar, whenever it is possible, in the live 
 rock beneath or close to your house, where the situation 
 will admit of it; this, however, is not frequently the 
 
 
 
 } 
 } 
 
WINES. 469 
 
 ease. The French, who are the best authority on the 
 subject, tell us that cellars under old uninhabited man- 
 sion houses have been found best of all, provided they 
 have had no opening but to the north, and have lain as 
 deep as the nature of the soil would permit without too 
 much humidity, even to forty or fifty feet. These situ- 
 ations are only mentioned to enable the reader to make 
 a comparison of what approximates nearest in his own 
 case to the most desirable site. 
 
 In cities and towns good stone or brick cellars, solidly 
 constructed, at such a depth as to secure an even tem- 
 perature through the year, is all that can be reasonably 
 expected in the generality of cases. Wherever and how- 
 ever cellars be constructed, the changes of the external 
 atmosphere must not penetrate to their recesses. Double 
 doors, one four or five feet within the other, so that one 
 may be closed before the other is opened, are essentially 
 needful. . The temperature of fifty degrees of Fahren- 
 heit’s thermometer, or never rising above fifty-two 
 degrees is the best that can be kept up throughout the 
 year. The majority of wine-cellars in private houses in 
 large cities are not at all adapted for expensive delicate 
 wines. Hence people so often complain, after they have 
 received wine in excellent condition from the merchant, 
 that it does not drink as well as it did when it came 
 home; that it is. a wine-which will not keep, and they 
 have been imposed upon in the purchase; when the 
 cellar alone has been in fault: 
 
 Cellars in private houses are rarely ventilated. Foul 
 air is frequent im them, arising from fissures between 
 the joints of the brickwork; the carriages passing above 
 shake the street.under which they are too often built, 
 and. communicate the tremor to the wine, than which 
 nothing is more likely to cause it to become turbid. The 
 back instead of the front of a town-house is the place 
 for the wine cellar. 
 
 Cellars should be well arched, and the arches should 
 be dry enough to bear a coat of lime whitewash, and 
 
 they should be of great thickness, especially if any thing 
 
A70 WINES, 
 
 is to pass over them. Where a large stock of various 
 wines is kept there should be two cellars, one within 
 another. One cellar should be kept at a lower tem- 
 perature than the other, that those wines of the south 
 
 may have congenial lodgment which are most benefited — 
 
 by a warm atmosphere. All sweet wines, and those 
 called by the French de liqueur, improve in a tempe- 
 rature which would be ruinous to the more delicate 
 kinds. Madeira, Xeres, Teneriffe, Malaga, Paxarete, 
 Cyprus, Syracuse, Alicant, and similar wines, are best 
 kept in a temperature of sixty degrees of Fahrenheit. 
 The delicate and exquisitely flavoured wines of France 
 will only keep well in a low temperature, hence the con- 
 venience of two cellars and two temperatures. 
 
 Let the cellar then be deep, even “to the centre ;” 
 rather than be exposed to such dangers. ‘There must 
 not be even a rat’s hole communicating with a sewer 
 
 by which a taint may be admitted. No outer kitchen 
 
 sink, no odours or vegetable matter in decay, or water 
 in which vegetables have been boiled, must be suffered 
 to corrupt the air near the entrance of a good wine- 
 
 
 
 cellar in the smallest possible degree. No current of , 
 
 air should be permitted to pass it, nor should the door 
 be near any place whence effluvia from noisome or dis- 
 agreeable trades can be carried in, or any obnoxious 
 gasses percolate. A wine-cellar should contain no other 
 liquor whatever but wine. 
 
 If our readers wish to obtain first-rate Champagne, 
 whether still or sparkling, they must go to a respectable 
 wine-merchant, and pay a good price, whether at home 
 or abroad. In dealing with Moét or Ruinart, or any 
 other accredited agents, they cannot fail to find a supe- 
 rior article; but they should avoid the cheap Cham- 
 pagnes with as much care as they would avoid the fecu- 
 lent water flowing out of Fleet-ditch imto the ‘Thames. 
 Cyrus Redding, in that valuable little book of his called 
 Every Man his own Butler, from which we have 
 before quoted, says, ‘“ Some people fancy they get bet- 
 ter Champagne by going to the Docks, and choosing 
 

 
 WINES. 471 
 
 for themselves.” But. that this is not so will be very 
 apparent, when it is stated that hundreds of thousands of 
 bottles of Champagne are imported, which, glass, wine, 
 and all, are not worth the duty of 5s. 6d. per gallon. 
 “Champagne,” says Cyrus Redding, ‘‘is a wine 
 ‘which requires attention in keeping. The bottles should 
 be carefully laid on laths, or m sand, in a cool cellar 
 where air is admitted, and never be piaced on their bot- 
 toms, as from this cause they will very speedily lose 
 their effervescence. When once placed, they should 
 not be touched but for removal to the table. If they 
 are left im the cases, the mark of the upper side should 
 be carefully attended to. The Sillery is sometimes apt 
 to effervesce after carriage, or on being placed in bad 
 cellars. The buttles should in that case be placed on 
 their bottoms for some time, and, before drinking, the 
 wine should be kept an hour in ice. The best Cham- 
 pagne in the best year has a slight tinge of the rose- 
 eolour, which is one proof of its being of excellent qua- 
 lity. The deposit in Champagne is not the only one 
 to which the wine is liable. While the dépot pierre is 
 considered a proof of the goodness of the wine, a black 
 or yellow deposit, which will on motion float in the 
 liquid, is a bad symptom, and shows that the wine is 
 deteriorating fast. Deep cellars are best for Champagne, 
 and as little variation of temperature as possible. The 
 older it gets, the less liable it is to be attacked by 
 changes to its disadvantage. The better this wine is, 
 the more it is liable to accident from heat, cold, or 
 bad cellars ; it will; however, in most cases, very soon 
 recover itself. The wines of France generally require 
 the same kind of cellar as Champagne. It has been al- 
 ready remarked, that the wines of the south should be 
 kept in cellars which are of a warmer temperature. 
 Champagne should be kept in a cool cellar, and not be 
 removed from the case until wanted for drinking. where 
 the practice is not inconvenient. If kept out of the case, 
 quartz sand is the best substance in which to imbed the 
 bottles, which should still have laths between each tier: 
 
472 WINES. 
 
 Sillery in bad cellars will sometimes take the eapaiesansa= 
 quality. 
 
 « A deposit will often be observed im Ghannelgnd 
 wines when they have been placed in the: cellar after 
 purchase. Effervescing Champagne will lose the quality 
 if the bottles are placed upright, and therefore they must 
 be sedulously piled with the same sides downwards 
 as they have previously had. If the wine is not removed 
 from the case, and the proper side of the latter is kept 
 up, all will be right. Still Champagne wines, becoming 
 effervescent, lose their fine flavour, to a certain extent, 
 and acquire a sharp and peculiar taste. When the effer- 
 vescing wines lose that quality, which they will some- 
 times do suddenly, they are, on the other hand, often 
 better in flavour, drunk as still wine, than they were at 
 first. 
 
 ‘«‘ When Champagne is received into the ive cel- 
 lar, and its place is once fixed, it should never be moved 
 but for the table. Every new motion disturbs the par- 
 ticles which are precipitated, and tends to do no good, 
 as the next precipitation will be increased in quantity.” 
 
 CLARET.—Claret, of all others, is generally the best 
 wine for all constitutions; and the reason is, because it 
 contains a sufficient quantity of tartarous parts, that 
 make it less heady and more stomachical than white 
 wine. As for pale wine, it is a middling sort between 
 the red and white; the same is made of grapes of the 
 same colour, or else by mixing white wine with a little 
 red. 
 
 The Bordeaux wines are generally divided into vins 
 de Médoc, des Graves, des: Palus, des Cote, de Terre 
 forte, and vins d’entre deux Mers; but so much do 
 they differ in the taste, colour, bouquet, durability, and 
 a thousand imperceptible shades, that it would be diffi- 
 cult to give an exact list of the varied and magnificent 
 productions of the Gironde. Commercial men_ have, 
 however, established two recognised classes, which ap- 
 pear to be tacitly admitted by all parties, and which 
 may serve as a guide to the purchaser. In the first 
 
 
 
WINES. A473 
 
 class are ranked Chateau Margeaux, Chateau La/fitte, 
 Latour, Haut Brion. The product of these four vin- 
 tages may be rated at from 400 to 450 tonneaux, the 
 value of which represents a capital of 2400 to 3000 
 francs per tonneau. When age has developed the qua- 
 lities of these wines, more particularly in a good vintage, 
 the value is at least doubled. For the last ten years, 
 indeed, the Haut Brion seems to be on the wane in 
 public favour, and it sells ata lesser price than one of 
 its three rivals. 
 
 The second class of Bordeaux wines is composed of 
 the Rauzan, Braune, Mouton, Léoville, Gruan, La 
 Rose, Pichon, Longueville, Durfort, Degorse, Las- 
 combe, Cos :Destournelle ; producing 850 tonneaux, 
 which ranges at from 2000 to 2100 francs the tonneau. 
 
 The third class comprises within its ranks the Chateau 
 @Issau, Powjets, many clos of Cantenac, and of Mar- 
 geaux, Mulescot, Ferriére, Giscours, &c. These vine- 
 yards produce: about 1100 tonneaux, of the value of 
 1700 to 1800 francs the tonneau. | 
 
 The fourth class has two divisions; first the Saint- 
 Julien, Béchevelle, Saint-Pierre, &c.; producing about 
 650 tonneaux, worth about 1200 to 1500 francs each. 
 In the second division are ranged the great properties of 
 Pauillac and Saint- Estéphe, with some others, pro- 
 ducing about 1000 tonneaux, at from 1000 to 1200 
 franes the tonneau. 
 
 Claret, as it is commonly called, is a mixed or as- 
 sorted wine, beng a growth of Bordeaux, in which a 
 quantity of hermitage, or some. full-bodied red wine, is 
 mingled by the merchants on the spot to suit the taste 
 of the English, which is for full-bodied, powerful wines, 
 rather than for those of a pure and delicate character. 
 The best growths of Bordeaux, coming assorted in this 
 manner, are yet among the most pure and salubrious 
 which Englishmen drink, The value of this wine, and 
 those of Bordeaux in general, increase in value 50s. a 
 tun for the first five years annually, and 60s. or 80s. for 
 every succeeding year. All the wines are classed by 
 
A474 WINES: 
 
 the brokers, who decide their grade, and, consequently, 
 their price. This renders the grower emulous to raise 
 the class of his wine in the market, even at a consider- 
 able outlay of money and labour. 
 
 The German wines, as a general description, may 
 be pronounced generous and finely flavoured, rich in 
 bouquet, and the least acid among the northern wines. 
 They are, however, drier than the wines of France. 
 That they are what the French call vins de garde, or 
 wines that will keep, is plainly apparent from the fact, 
 that the better qualities have been found perfect at 
 eighty and even at a hundred years old. The Moselle 
 wines are among: the least acid of the German, or indeed 
 the wines of any country. The German jurist Hon- 
 theim says the best Moselle wines make men cheerful ; 
 when drunk in quantity and old, and good; the heat leay- 
 ing the body and head without inconvenience and disorder. 
 
 
 
 Riidesheim, six leagues from Mayence, is said to produce’ — 
 
 the best wines in Germany, having more body, strength, 
 and bouquet, than those on the left bank of the Rhine. 
 An auhm of 1811 sells for 55/. On the Joannisberg 
 wines it would be unnecessary to dilate here. Barry, 
 seventy years ago, in speaking of the hock wines, ad- 
 duced, as a circumstance that contributed to their ad- 
 vancement, the fact, that there was an annual addition 
 of a due proportion of the recent and new wine of the 
 same growth to the old wine. In his day the best old 
 hock sold at the price of 50/. the auhm. The Rhine 
 wines of most strength are the Marcobrunner, Riides- 
 heimer, and Nierstiner. The Joannisberger Geissen- 
 heim and Hockheim have the most perfect delicacy and 
 aroma. The wines of Bischeim, Asmanahausen, and 
 Laubenheim, are also light and agreeable. The German 
 proverb says, “‘ Rhein wein, fein wein, Necker wein, 
 lecre wein, Franken wein, tranken wein, Mosel wein, 
 unnosel wein.”” But the wines of all wines, according to 
 our taste, are the Julius Hospitalis Steinwein of 1811, 
 and the Cabinet Leinstenwein of 1822. We remember 
 in 1828 and 1829, drinking fine specimens of both, at 
 
WINES. 475 
 
 the Three Moors, at Augsburg (a capital hotel), and 
 noting down in our journal, that the price of the Stein- 
 wein was four florins, twenty-four kreutzers, and of the 
 Leinstenwein five florins, forty-eight kreutzers; the one 
 amounting nearly to 8s. and the other fully to 9s. of our 
 money. ‘They are both exquisite wines, but are said to 
 produce strangury. Switzerland grows little good wine. 
 The Neufchatel would, perhaps, most please an English 
 palate. It is equal to the third quality of Burgundy, 
 and has some resemblance to port, without so much body. 
 
 On the Spanish wines we must be necessarily brief. 
 Under the influence of the sun of a warm climate, they 
 contain more alcohol, and are altogether differently 
 prepared. The grapes are suffered to become quite ripe, 
 and part of the must is concentrated by boiling it in 
 large caldrons for forty-four hours. The Spanish wines, 
 however, with the exception of those of Xeres and 
 Malaga, are greatly neglected in the manufacture. 
 Manzinilla, the country wine of the district of Xeres 
 de la Frontera, is a light, pleasant beverage, not des- 
 titute of mellowness and flavour. It is little known 
 in the cellars of English merchants, butis far preferable 
 in every respect to those loaded, coloured compounds 
 which pass for sherries in London taverns. 
 
 The only Italian wines worth drinking are the Monte- 
 fiascone, Montepulciano, and Vino d’ Asti. Many of these 
 wines are too harsh, and some of them are too thick 
 and sweet for a French or English palate. 
 
 Some of the wines of Hungary are very tolerable. 
 The Tokay wine is exquisite. Even the maslas, which 
 is a diluted Tokay, is a splendid wine, soft, oily, and 
 stomachic. A glass of it may be had any day after 
 dinner, at about 10d. or 1s. English in the Speise Saal 
 of the Schwann, at Vienna, where we in our youth con- 
 sumed many a bottle of Tokay, and other precious 
 wines,—a ‘short, sweet odour at a vast expense.” The 
 Verumth is a stomachic mixture, too much bepraised by 
 those who have never tasted it; indeed, as much ovyer- 
 praised as the Créme d’ Absinthe. 
 
476 — 
 
 COFFEE AND LIQUEURS.* : ; 
 
 Ir is a remarkable fact, that during the retreat of 
 the French from Russia, ‘such soldiers as refrained 
 from brandy, and took only coffee, escaped being frost- 
 bitten, or any of the diseases arising from exposure 
 to cold.. There is no part: of the world in which 
 better coffee is sold than’ in’ London, more especially 
 the Mocha coffee of Twining (which may be pur- 
 chased, unground, and. unroasted, at’ 2s. 2d. the Ib. ; 
 whole and roasted, or’ ground and roasted, at 8s. the 
 lb.); yet there is no spot in this wicked world, we 
 verily believe, where coffee is generally so badly made 
 as in this great wilderness of a metropolis. © This arises 
 from several causes: 1st, the purchasing coffee ground 
 and roasted. The consumption and sale of the ‘article 
 
 is so small in England, compared to France, that in 
 
 many of the shops the ground coffee is a'week, and in 
 many a fortnight, or a month, old; and being too fre- 
 quently exposed to the influences of weather and climate, 
 the aroma has entirely evaporated. There are few 
 shops in London where coffee is daily roasted; and, even. 
 if there were such shops, the quantity purchased for 
 private consumption is generally so large, and the use 
 of it so unfrequent in families, that the flavour, im so 
 humid a climate, is gone long before the coffee is con- 
 sumed... The Turks, who are our masters in the art of 
 making coffee, do not employ a mill to triturate the 
 berry, but pound it in mortars, with pestles, or mallets 
 
 
 
 * This, and a part of the preceding chapter, is a portion of an 
 article which originally appeared in Fraser’s Magazine, and 
 which is here reprinted by the kind permission of Mr, Nickisson. 
 
 
 
COFFEE AND LIQUEURS. A477 
 
 of wood. When these machines have been long used 
 for the purpose, they are esteemed precious, and sell at 
 a large price. Brillat Savarin relates the result of an 
 experiment which he caused to be made as to the com- 
 parative merits of the liquid made from the pounded 
 and the ground berry :— 
 
 _ “TI roasted with care,” says he, “a pound of good 
 Mocha coffee, and separated it into two equal portions, 
 - one of which was ground, and the other pounded in the 
 manner of the Turks. I made coffee with both one and 
 the other of these powders, taking an equal weight of 
 each, pouring on each an equal portion of boiling water, 
 and in all respects dealing equally between them. I 
 tasted these coffees, and caused them to be tasted by 
 the best judges, and the unanimous opinion was, that 
 the liquid produced from the powdered was evidently 
 superior to the produce of the ground coffee.” 
 
 The second reason why the coffee is inferior in Eng- 
 land is, that the berry is burned instead of being roasted, 
 and consequently is bitter, and burnt, instead of being 
 fine-flavoured and aromatic. 
 
 The third reason is, that at hotels, coffee-houses, 
 clubs, and even in private houses, enough of the coffee 
 (even though it were good) is not infused ; and the 
 fourth reason may be found in the addition of an excess 
 of water. Now, in the first place, the roasting of coffee 
 should be carefully watched and superintended by an 
 intelligent person. The moment the berry crackles, 
 and becomes crisp enough to pulverise, it is sufficientl 
 roasted. Once taken off the roaster, it should be 
 placed in several thick folds of flannel, to undergo the 
 process of cooling. This preserves the essential oil in 
 the coffee, and prevents the aroma from escaping. When 
 the coffee is cool, place it in an air-tight canister. | Suf- 
 ficient for the day should be the coffee thereof. In 
 other words, never roast, if you can avoid it, more than 
 for a single day’s consumption,—certainly not more than 
 for two or three days. Grind or pound your coffee not 
 
478 COFFEE AND LIQUEURS. 
 
 more than a quarter of an hour before you want to 
 make the infusion. | 
 
 There are various methods of preparing the infusion. 
 Any one of them would have the effect of producing 
 very tolerable coffee, if the directions we have given 
 touching the roasting and grinding of the berry were 
 attended to, and a sufficient quantity of the powdered 
 coffee used. But, unfortunately, English servants, who 
 
 drink tea or beer, are ignorant of, or insensible to, the - 
 
 true flavour of coffee, and, as they do not partake them- 
 selves of the beverage, become indifferent to its prepa- 
 ration. The coffee produced by them is, indeed, drowned 
 in a deluge of water, and deserves the title given it in 
 an old tract called the “Petition against Coffee,” namely, 
 “a base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, stinking puddle- 
 water.” 
 
 The best coffee in the world, taken altogether, is 
 certainly made in Paris, though we have occasionally 
 tasted, at private houses in England, where the master 
 was a gourmet, and the servants disciplined, finer coffee 
 than was ever brewed either at the Café Foy or the 
 Café Corrazza. And the only wonder is, that it should 
 not be always so; for, as we before observed, the very 
 finest qualities of coffee come to the London market. 
 
 For the last forty years, a great deal of fancifulness 
 has prevailed in Paris as to the best manner of making 
 coffee. Much of this arose, no doubt, from the inordi- 
 nate love which Napoleon exhibited for coffee; as every 
 one was desirous to improve upon the favourite beverage 
 of the little Corsican and great conqueror. Projects of 
 all kinds were started: to make coffee without roasting 
 it, without grinding it, to infuse it cold, to make it boil 
 three quarters of an hour, &c. Another mode was to 
 run the cold water several times through the powder, 
 another to infuse the coffee over night. But, notwith- 
 standing these vagaries, coffee is generally well made in 
 France. It is true, that it is most commonly adulterated 
 by the admixture of chicorée, but there is nothing noxious 
 
 " ™ 4 me on _— Pa 7 lip ae -_ a 
 We PEO Mini ee Da een cet 2 eee 
 
 
 
COFFEE AND LIQUEURS, 479 
 
 in the endive. It merely adds a bitterness to the coffee, 
 and is adopted, we believe, in nine instances out of ten, 
 from motives of economy. 
 
 The most usual method of making coffee in France is 
 a la Dubelloy, which consists in pouring boiling water on 
 coffee placed in a porcelain or silver vase, colandered or 
 pierced with very small holes. This first decoction is 
 poured off, heated to boiling heat, passed again through 
 the coffee-pot, when a clear and exquisite coffee is pro- 
 duced. More than a full-sized table-spoonful of coffee 
 should be allowed for each guest in making a small cup 
 of coffee after dinner. 
 
 The most complete apparatus for coffee-making ever 
 invented in England is said to have been the production 
 of Mr. Jones, of Bond-street, ironmonger ; but, as we 
 have never tried it, we will not speak of its merits. The 
 ordinary English tin coffee-biggin succeeds tolerably 
 well, if the coffee be properly roasted and ground ; but 
 the disadvantage is, that the filtering occupies so long a 
 time, that the coffee is half cold, when ready to be 
 poured into the cups. 
 
 The cylinder for roasting coffee, which one cannot 
 pass through the streets of Paris without seeing con- 
 stantly at work, has been in use since 1687. The love 
 of novelty is so great in that capital, that when coffee 
 was first introduced, two methods were adopted of pre- 
 paring it; one, the ordinary method now in use; the 
 other, a method said to prevail in the seraglio at Con- 
 stantinople, for the mistresses of the grand signor. This 
 consists in boiling for a certain time in hot water, not 
 the grain itself, but the shell, or pod, which envelopes 
 it. This method affords a liquor of an agreeable colour 
 to the eye, but it yields a pale and flavourless coffee, 
 though decorated with the name of café a la sultane. 
 Blegny invented, in 1687, a distilled coffee water, an 
 oil, and a syrup of coffee. Under the Regent Orleans, 
 coffee sweetmeats were invented, to appear at dessert ; 
 and a few years afterwards the distillateurs of Mont- 
 pellier made a liqueur, produced after dessert, which 
 
480 COFFEE AND LIQUEURS: 
 
 they called eau de café, whose odour resembled roasted 
 coffee. There. were also tableties de café, which were 
 eaten before the ligueurs. There were, and are, medi- 
 cal men who, from the time of its introduction to our 
 day, have not ceased to sound the alarm as to the un- 
 wholesomeness of coffee ; but we think, with old Lémery, 
 that “coffee fortifies the stomach and brain, promotes 
 digestion, allays the headach, suppresses the fumes caused 
 by wine, makes the memory and fancy more quick, and 
 people brisk that drink it.” This last effect, says he; 
 has been observed by the shepherds of Aseical who 
 took notice, that before coffee was used, and that their 
 sheep fed upon this kind of pulse, that they skipped 
 about strangely. 
 
 We shall close our observations on coffee by giving a 
 receipt of Dr. Roques for a café a la créme frappé de 
 glace. It is a delicious breakfast durmg the summer 
 heats. Here it is :—‘‘ Make a strong infusion of Mocha, 
 or Bourbon, coffee ; put it in a porcelain bowl, sugar it 
 properly, and add to it an equal portion of boiled milk, 
 or one-third the quantity of a rich cream. Surround 
 the bowl with pounded ice.” Dr. Bonnafous, of Per- 
 pignan, recommended this beverage to such persons as 
 had lost their appetite, or who experienced general 
 debility. This agreeable epicurean one day said to a 
 patient, Dr. Roques, who was himself in the profession, 
 “‘ Study, my friend, that which. is good, that which 
 pleases your palate. Try to become a little friand ; 
 commence a series of gastronomic experiments without 
 infringing a regimen. You will be the better for it; 
 and in certain circumstances you will exercise on sickly 
 people inclined to gourmandise an unlimited power. 
 Breakfast. during July, August, and a part of Septem- 
 ber, on iced coffee, and in winter, on woodcock soup. 
 This is a regimen with which I restored to health and 
 sense an aged canon who had nearly lost all appetite 
 and who was disgusted with life.” 
 
 Many of the liqueurs drunk both in. England and 
 France are exceedingly unwholesome ; and, should any 
 
 
 
 
 
I OL ee 
 - 
 
 COFFEE AND LIQUEURS. 481 
 
 of our readers need a cordial or stimulant after dinner or 
 with their coffee, we would in preference recommend 
 them a small glass of pure Cognac brandy; but this 
 should be obtained from a trustworthy house, as the 
 Cognac brandies are adulterated with Spanish or Bor- 
 deaux brandy of very inferior quality, with neutral- 
 flavoured rum, and rectified spirits. British brandy bit- 
 ters are used to fill up the flavour, but comparatively in 
 small quantities, as they are exceedingly powerful. 
 
 We have already intimated an opinion that the pro- 
 fuse, or indeed the frequent and moderate use of liqueurs 
 is to be deprecated ; but we do not mean to aver that, as 
 an agreeable termination to a repast, or as a gentle sti- 
 mulus, inducing the stomach to perform its functions 
 more kindly, they may not be used with advantage. 
 They should, however, be taken rarely and sparingly, 
 for the particular effect to be looked for is a gentle ac- 
 tion of the stomach. The liqueur, whatever its nature, 
 should be taken, as in all foreign countries, as a chasse 
 cafe, immediately after the small cup of strong coffee, 
 and it should be sipped slowly, and allowed to linger on 
 the palate. 
 

 
INDEX, 
 
 Apples, flank of, 441 
 compote of, 441 
 in syrup for present use, 264 
 Artichokes, a la Barigoule, 379. 
 au naturel, 309 
 in surprise, 305 
 in oil, 305 
 to boil, 303 
 to dress, 309 
 with butter, 304 
 with butter sauce, 304 
 with a white sauce, 305 
 Asparagus, to preserve during 
 the winter, 308 
 with green peas, 306 
 Atelets, (explanation of terms), 40 
 Au naturel (explanation of terms), 
 40 
 Anchovies, to choose, 108 
 
 Bacon, to boil, 183 
 
 to boil a chine of, 183 
 
 to choose, 237 
 
 to dress, 234 
 ‘Bain Marie pans, 7 
 Baked Bream (Cornish dish), 231 
 Ballachong, to make, 338 
 Barber (explanation of terms), 40 
 Barbels en Maigre with a Spanish 
 
 sauce, 413 
 
 dressed in Champagne, 413 
 Batter, for frying, 373 
 
 German, 260 
 Beans, Entremets of, 306 
 
 French, as salad, 459 
 
 « 
 
 Beef, observations on, 2 
 
 to carve an edge or aitch 
 bone of, 18 
 
 to carve part of a sirloin 
 of, 20 
 
 to carve a buttock of, 21 
 
 juice, 69 
 
 to boil an edge or aitch bone 
 of, 181 
 
 to boil half a round of, 181 
 
 minced, 188 
 
 baked, 232 
 
 scarlet, 233 
 
 hunting, 235 
 
 mock Dutch, 238 
 
 hung, 239 
 
 Welsh, 239 
 
 to collar, 241 
 
 Brighton hunting, 243 
 
 fillets, mignons of, sautés a la 
 Lyonaise, 386 
 
 steaks with potatoes, 386 
 
 fillet of, 387 
 
 fillets of, in their juice, 387 
 
 a sirloin of, to roast, 174 
 
 a fillet of, 175 
 
 hung, to prepare, 375 
 
 ribs of, to roast, 674 
 
 Beet-root, to dress, 301 
 Bengal chetney, a good receipt 
 
 for, 338 
 
 Bhusta, to make, 337 
 Bills of fare, on, 28 
 
 for plain family dinners, 30 
 
 Biscuit sponge, 255 
 
 2.2 
 
484 
 
 Biscuit, Brighton, 259 
 a Somersetshire, 252 
 drop, 252 
 sweet, 252 
 hard, to make, 251 
 Blanc, 40 
 for vegetables, 192 
 maigre, 267 
 ala Vamille, 375 
 French method, 376 
 Blanchir, 40 
 Blond de Veau, 70 
 another, 370 
 Bourguignote (explanation 
 terms), 40 
 Braize, a brown, 347 
 Braize, to, 40 
 a, to dress any kind of meat, 
 146 
 a white, 147 
 maigre, for boiling fish in, 
 353 
 Braized Turkey, 377 
 Braisiére (explanation of terms), 
 40 
 Brandy, raspberry, 314 
 raspberry, to make another, 
 320 
 cherry, 317 
 cherry, another, 318 
 white currant, 319 
 carraway, 320 
 black cherry, 320 
 orange, 320 
 Brewing made easy, 322 
 Brider (explanation of terms), 40 
 Broiling and stewing plate, inven- 
 tion of a, 7 
 Broth, fish, 99 
 beef, 102 
 barley, 102 
 veal, 102 
 Scotch, 102 
 pectoral chicken, 102 
 a, for the sick for breakfast, 
 103 
 a cheap mutton, 103 
 a cheap veal, 104 
 mutton, 104 
 &@ maigre, of pot-herbs, 344 
 
 of 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Broth, fowl, Bouillon de Volaille — 
 pour les potages de Santé, — 
 344 
 common maigre, 371 
 chicken, for the sick, 371 
 chicken, another, 372 
 another chicken, 101 
 a gravy, to clarify, 100 
 Brown thickening for Espagnol, — 
 373 
 Buisson (explanation of terms), — 
 40 
 Bullis plums, to preserve, 287 
 Bundle or bunch (explanation of — 
 terms), 40 
 Buns, Bath, to make, 252 
 easty, 257 ; 
 Burdwan stew, 336 
 Butter, oiled, 186 
 clarified, 186 
 oil, lard, suet, &c., for frying, © 
 372 
 
 
 
 Cabbage and rice (west country 
 dish), 307 
 Café au lait, 315 
 Café a Peau, 315 
 Cake, Semolina, 222 
 a sponge, 250 
 a very fine, 251 
 a plain, 251 
 a tea, 252 
 the Victoria, 253 
 a plum, 253 
 another sponge, 254 
 a cheap seed, 254 
 a cheap seed, another, 254 
 diet bread, 256 
 apple, 268 
 fowl, 399 
 Cakes, iceing for, 250 
 cheese, 250 
 to make Yorkshire, 250 
 ratifia, 252 
 Bath, 253 
 Shrewsbury, 253 
 rice cheese, 255 | 
 apple, or gateaude pommes, 
 255 a | 
 almond cheese, 256 
 
 
 
INDEX. A85 
 
 Cakes, baba, 256 Chickens, a plain fricassee of, 
 ginger, 257 with mushrooms, 385 
 Maltese, 257 a plain fricassee of, 4 la Peri- 
 little, 257 gord, 386 
 Tunbridge, 258 Chocolate, to make, 447 
 rock, 258 Chops or steaks to broil, 183 
 lemon, 258 Citron, English, to make, 278 
 another receipt for little, 258 | Civet (explanation of terms), 40 
 gooseberry, 258 Cod’s head and shoulders, to boil, 
 Derby, 259 125 
 rum, 460 Cod sounds dressed like little tur- 
 
 Calf’s head, to carve half a, 19 keys, 126 
 liver with fine herbs, 384 another fashion, 126 
 
 Capon stuffed with truffle, 200 to stew, 129 
 
 Chapped lips, for, 450 crimped, to fry, 138 
 
 Capilotade (explanation of terms), | Cod’s head, directions for carving 
 
 40 a, 24 
 
 Carakay, or Indian sauce, 337 shoulders, to stew, 129 
 
 Cardoons, to dress, 298 how to choose, 47 
 
 Carp, to stew, 130 sounds ragout, 110 
 
 Carpets, to clean, 450 fish, to dress, that has been 
 
 Carving, observations on, and di- left the day before, 131 
 
 rections for, 15 fricassee of, 409 
 terms for carving all sorts of Dutch fashion, 422 
 meat at table, 16 fricassee of, 130 
 
 Casserole au ris a |’ Indienne, 326 stewed fillets of, 181 
 
 Cassis (explanation of terms), 40 hung, to boil, 107 
 
 Cauliflowers with gravy for en- salt, 110 
 
 tremets, 301 sounds, 110 
 a mode of dressing with dried, to clean, 117 
 Parmesan cheese, 300 Coffee, by a simple and good me- 
 with butter sauce, 394 thod, 446 
 
 Cayenne pepper, 291 to make, another way, 446 
 essence of, 291 College puffs, 257 
 
 Celery, to dress, 296 Colouring to stain ices, jellies, &c., 
 a ragout of, 306 466 
 to stew, 307 Compiegne (explanation of terms), 
 a purée of, 363 40 
 
 Charlotte Russian, 279 Compote (explanation of terms), 
 
 Cheese, directions for placing, on 40 
 
 the table-after dinner, | Compotier (explanation of terms), 
 29 4] 
 to dress, 187 Common beef stock (or Court 
 fritters, 270 Bouillon), 70 
 Chelsea pensioner for rheuma- | Compote of gooseberries, 275 
 tism, 455 of cherries, 275 
 
 Chicken minced, Polish way, 438 of raspberries and gooseber- 
 fried 4 la Malabar, 336 ries, 275 
 
 Chickens, trussing of, 12 of peaches and apricots, 275 
 
 a plain fricassee of, 384 of pears, 276 
 
486 
 
 Compote of apples, 276 
 of oranges, 276 
 of partridges, 420 
 _ Consommé of poultry, 348 
 * Constitutions, a receipt for weak, 
 457 
 another nutritive receipt for 
 weak, 457 
 Cooks, rules to be observed by, in 
 the regulation and man- 
 agement of their larder, 1 
 Cotelettes de mouton ala Soubise, 
 390 
 d’agneau panées, 390 
 a la minute, 390 
 de mouton au naturel, 380 
 de porc, sauce Robert, 391 
 Cough, good receipt for a, 456 
 Coulis (explanation of terms), 41 
 Country captain, a, 337 
 Couronne (explanation of terms), 
 4] 
 Course, of what the first consists, 
 26 
 of what the second, 27 
 of what the third, 27 
 Courses, bill of fare of three, 28 
 Court (explanation of terms), 4] 
 Crab, to dress a cold, 145 
 Cradle spits, construction of, 8 
 Craw-fish, Italian way, 408 
 Cream, leche, 266 
 raspberry, 265 
 Swiss, 266 
 orange flower, 267 
 Venetian, 268 
 coffee, 268 
 rice, 269 
 whipt chocolate, 269 
 whipt marasquino, 269 
 ginger, 270 
 apple, 279 
 Italian, 279 
 ratafia, 280 
 rock, 280 
 Vanilla, 281 
 stone, 281 
 lemon, 281 
 tea, 462 
 cold, 463 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cream, to scald, as in the west of — 
 
 England, 448 
 to preserve for 
 months, 452 
 Créme de Vanille, 315 
 Croustades (explanation ofterms dy 
 41 
 
 Crust, to make an excellent short, 
 260 
 Cucumbers, to preserve, 300 
 to dress, 308 
 Cuisson (explanation of terms), 
 Al 
 Curds and whey, immediate, 322 
 Curagoa, 319 
 Currant water, 319 
 Cure for corns, 454 
 for chilblains, 454 
 Curry, an inimitable, 339 
 to make dry lobster, 339 
 a good, 340 
 a vegetable, 340 
 for one fowl, 340 
 malay, 340 
 Madras prawn, 341 
 a dry, with vegetables, 326 
 another, 327 
 fish, 326 
 powder, receipt for, 334 
 excellent, 334 
 Custard gooseberry, 280 
 
 Damsons, to preserve, 287 
 Darioles, to make, 381 
 
 Dessert, of what it consists, 27 
 Desserte, entrée de, 41 
 Digester the, for soups, &c., 9 
 Directions for frying fish, 132 
 
 for roasting and boiling poul- 
 
 try, game, &c., 193 
 for pickling, 283 
 
 Dorure (explanation of terms), 41 
 Dorez (explanation of terms), 41 
 Drink, a most pleasant, 449 
 Ducks, trussing of, 12 
 Duhee, or curdled milk, 335 
 Dumplings, lemon, 215 
 
 Eau sucré, to make, 316 
 Eels, to carve, 25 
 
 several — 
 
 
 
 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Eels, to choose, 45 
 to roast large, with a puddin g 
 in their belly, 140 
 to stew, 128 
 another way, 128 
 a superior way, 128 
 Egg sauce, 150 
 Eggs, fricassee of, 224 
 poached, 224 
 en chemise, 224 
 on the dish, 224 
 buttered, 225 
 fried with bacon, 225 
 to make a hasty dish of, 226 
 fried with sausages, 426 
 snow, or cufs a la neige, 
 226 
 grandmother’s way, 227 
 with sorrel, 227 
 Scotch, 227 
 with celery, 227 
 with lettuce, 228 
 with endive, 229 
 a la tripe, 400 
 a la tripe, Italian way, 407 
 Lombardy way, 407 
 another Italian way of dress- 
 ing, 408 
 German way, 418 
 Swiss fashion, 445 
 Emincé, or Salpicon (explanation 
 of terms), 400 
 Endive, to dress, 299 
 Entrecote du beuf, 41 
 Entrées, 41 
 Entremets, 41 
 Entry of fowls, Italian way, 406 
 Escalopes (explanations), 41 
 Essence of ham, for gravies, &c., 
 150 
 ginger, to make, 288 
 celery, to make, 288 
 quint, of lemon-peel, 288 
 of soap, for shaving, 453 
 
 Faggot (explanation of terms), 
 41 
 Farce (explanation of terms), 41 
 
 Feuilletage (explanation of terms), 
 41 
 
 487 
 
 Filets mignons (explanation of 
 terms), 41 
 Fillets of fat chickens, au su- 
 preme, 392 
 Financiére (explanation of terms), 
 Al 
 Fish, to choose, 43 
 dressed in the English fash- 
 ion, 110 
 to keep fresh, 112 
 salt, to choose, 21 
 shell, to choose, 113 
 salt, to clean, 117 
 salt, to boil, 121 
 tamarind, 336 
 Flounders, how to choose, 46 
 Fool, gooseberry, 275 
 apple, 279 
 currant, 279 
 orange, 280 
 Fowls, to truss, 12 
 Fowl, wild, to truss, 13 
 for roasting, 12 
 to carve a, 23 
 to boil, 193 
 or chicken tossed, 195 
 to fatten a, in four five days, 
 195 
 roasted, 200 
 salad of, 201 
 scollops of, with cucumbers, 
 208 
 with the flavour of game, 
 209 
 roasted, with green walnuts, 
 209 
 a, with large onions, 210 
 a, roasted, with chesnuts, 2106 
 Fowls, a la Tartare, 377 
 quenelle of, 382 
 with truffles, 383 
 fricassee of, 393 
 with saffron, 436 
 Fried parsley, 245 
 crisp, 245 
 bread sippets, 245 
 Fritters made without eggs, 464 
 Frying, to clarify dripping for, 
 185 
 
 to prepare fat for fish, 185 
 
488 | 
 
 Frying, to clarify suet for, 185 
 to clarify oil for, 186 
 Fumigating mixture for sick 
 chambers, 449 
 
 Game to keep, 197 
 a salmi of, cold, 205 
 moor, trussing of, 14 
 Geese, wild, to roast, 196 | 
 Gherkins, to pickle, 283 
 Gig6t aux haricots, a, 380 
 Ginger beer, to make, 321 
 beer, another, 321 
 bread, 256 
 wine, 322 
 Glacer (explanation of terms), 41 
 Glaze, to make good, 167 
 Godiveau (explanation of terms), 
 Al 
 Goffrés, 260 
 Goose, to truss a, 11 
 to carve a, 22 
 to carve a green, 23 
 a green roasted, 195 
 boiled, 209 
 Gooseberry fool, 260 
 to preserve, 287 
 Grapes in brandy, 450 
 Gras, au (explanation of terms), 
 41 
 Gratiner (explanation of terms), 
 Al 
 Gravy made with roots, 168 
 brown, for Lent, 168 
 Grosses piéces de Fonds, 41 
 Guinea fowls, to roast, 196 
 
 Haddock, how to choose, 47 
 to broil, 135 
 Ham, to carve a, 20 
 to dress a, 183 
 toast, 192 
 to dress a, another way, 235 
 to pickle a, 238 
 Westphalia, 238 
 to pickle with beer, 238 
 Yorkshire, 238 
 roasted, 240 
 tomake better than those of 
 Westphalia, 242 
 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ham, with Madeira, 243 
 roasted, another way, 378 
 Hams, to cure, 233 
 mutton, 233 
 mutton, another receipt for, — 
 233 7 
 pork, scalded, 234 
 Hare, to carvea, 22 4 
 roast, 203 
 in a superior manner, 204 
 stuffing for, 205 
 batter for, 205 
 jugged, 204 
 fillets of, en chevreuil, 392, ; 
 Haricots verts a la Francaise, 396 @ 
 Hashed fowl, 208 7 
 Herbs, list of, and whens inseason, — 
 450. 
 Herrings, to broil, 133 
 to fry, 135 
 to boil, 109 
 red, to choose, 113 
 to dress, 189 
 to dress, another way, 139 
 Hoggan, a west country dish, 
 230 
 
 Hors d’ceuvres (explanation of : 
 
 terms), 41 
 Hotch Potch, to make, 187 
 Hunting nuts, 257 
 
 Ice, mock, 266 = 
 
 Imitation of Worcester lampreys, 
 324 a 
 Implements neguirel ys acookin — 
 her kitchen, 9 a 
 Indian and Anglo-Indian cookery, 
 326 ‘a 
 Kubab, 328 
 
 curry, a very fine, 331 
 
 condiment, 334 
 
 condiment, another, 334 
 
 sharbut, 336 
 
 chetné, 341 
 
 arrow-root, directions 
 
 boiling the, 457 
 
 Irish stew, to make an, 188 
 
 a superior, 188 Bie 
 Isinglass, to clarify in a shorg i, * 
 
 time, 271 ee 
 
 for ee 
 
 
 
 
 
INDEX. 489 
 
 ; 
 \ 
 
 Jacks, roasting, 7 
 smoke, 7 
 wind up, 8 
 
 Jelly, apple, 272 
 apple, another, 272 
 quince, 273 
 orange, 273 
 orange, another, 273 
 punch, 273 
 of cherries, 274 
 of four fruits, 274 
 white currant, 274 
 calves’ feet, 274 
 Je Mange, 274 
 to make red currant without 
 
 boiling, 275 
 
 cherry, 278 
 arrow-root, 447 
 tapioca, 447 
 Gloucester, 447 
 isinglass, 456 
 hartshorn, 456 
 chicken -foot, 458 
 fish, 353 
 
 Kaisseté, a Russian dish, 429 
 
 K’Hara Palaoo, 332 
 
 Khicharee or Cutcheree, to make, 
 328 
 
 KHichree, to make, 330 
 
 Kidgeree, to make, 332 
 
 Kidneys, mutton, 382 
 
 au vin de Champagne, 399 
 
 King-cup, to make, 317 
 
 Kooftay Kay Kubab, to make, 
 328 
 
 Kubab, Shamee, 328 
 
 Lait de Poule, or hen’s milk, 457 
 another, 457 
 superior, 460 
 sucré, to make, 316 
 Lamb, observations on, 5 
 to carve a fore-quarter of, 
 
 21 
 
 the leg boiled, the loin fried, 
 and spinach, 182 
 
 chops, with tomata sauce, 
 184 
 
 a fore-quarter of, 177 
 
 Lamb, a chine or saddle of, 177 
 aleg of, 177 
 a shoulder of, 177 
 a loin of, 177 
 a neck of, 177 
 a breast of, 177 
 a breast of, dressed in the 
 Danish way, 459 
 — cutlets, to broil, 184 
 Lampreys, to stew, 130 
 to fry, 135 
 en Matelote, 353 
 Lapwing, to roast, 196 
 Larder, observations on the ma- 
 nagement of the, 1 
 Larding-pin (explanation 
 terms), 42 
 Lardoire (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 Lardons (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 Larks, trussing of, 14 
 to roast, 196 
 Laver, to dress, 311, 
 to dress, another way, 311 
 Lemon, syllabubs, 268 
 rice, 269 
 rice, another way, 270 
 solid, 278 
 solid, another, 279 
 possett, 280 
 peel, 281 
 cream, 281 
 Lemonade, a, 322 
 Liqueur d’ Anisette, 313 
 des quatre fruits, 318 
 Little puddings, or rough cakes, 
 458 
 Lobster, buttered, 144 
 stewed in the Irish way, 131 
 scolloped, 145 
 to pot, 325 
 dressed in the Italian way, 
 408 
 Long life, 456 
 Love apple chutnee, 335 
 
 of 
 
 Maccaroni ribbon, a Ll Apicius, 
 AOL 
 Macedoine, a, 360 
 
490 
 
 Mackarel, fillets of, broiled, 137 
 fillets of, fried, 138 
 to broil, 134 
 to broil whole, 134 
 a la Maitre d’Hotel, 355 
 to broil another way, 109 
 to serve as at Windsor, 123 
 to serve as at the table of 
 George IV., 123 
 Madeleines (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 Malt role, 458 
 Mangoes and canmgiers, to 
 pickle, 284 =" 
 Marinade, boiled, 370 
 
 Mariner (explanation ofterms), 42 
 . Names of the several joints which 
 
 Mark (explanation of terms), 42 
 to (explanation of terms), 400 
 Mask, to (explanation of terms), 
 42 ; 
 
 Matelote, a royal German, 415 
 Meat cubbubed, for an invalid’s 
 dinner, 447 
 and vegetables, a la Walker, 
 188 
 screens, observations on, 8 
 Meats, observations as to un- 
 dressed, 2 
 to restore tainted, 244 
 to preserve without salt, 244 
 Melons, to preserve, 277 
 Method of pickling red or other 
 cabbage, 292 
 Milk and cream, to keep, 246 
 Mint julep, to make, 316 
 Muffins, to make, 250 
 Mushrooms, to pickle (white), 286 
 to pickle (brown), 286 
 with a white sauce, 301 
 with a white sauce, another 
 way, 302 
 boiled, 302 
 to dress, 303 
 a la Languedocienne, 395 
 Mustard, to prepare, 245 
 Mutton, observations on, 4, 172 
 to carve a leg of, 18 
 to carve a shoulder of, 18 
 to carve a saddle of, 19 
 to carve a haunch of, 23 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mutton, to boil a leg of, 181 
 
 to boil a neck of, 181 
 
 to boil a leg of, with garlic, 
 189 
 
 haunch of, 175 
 
 chine or saddle of, 176 
 
 leg of, 176 
 
 shoulder of, 176 
 
 loin of, 177 
 
 neck of, 177 
 
 breast of, 177 
 
 leg of, with garlic, another 
 way, 378 
 
 leg of, to dress a, 379 
 
 leg of, Gascon fashion, 378 
 
 are served up to table, 17 
 Noix de Veau (explanation of 
 terms), 42 
 Nourir (explanation of terms), 42 
 Noyeau, to make white, 318 
 to make pink, 318 
 Nuremberg gingerbread nuts, 459 
 
 Observations as to undressed 
 meats, 2 
 
 on the kitchen and its uten-. e 
 
 sils, 6 
 
 on, and directions for, carv- 
 ing, 15. 
 
 on soups in general, 89 
 
 on fish soups, 98 
 
 on dressing fish, 105 
 
 relative to all sorts of fish s 
 
 sauces, 107 
 on boiling fish, 109 
 on stewing fish, 127 
 
 on frying and broiling fish, 
 
 132 
 on braizes, 146 
 on poéles, 147 
 on seasoning spices, 147 
 
 on sauces, essences, and con-_ 
 
 diments, 149 
 on gravies, &c., 167 
 on meat in general, 172 
 on roasting, 173 
 on boiling, 180 
 on broiling, 183 
 
 
 
 2 Daas 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Observations on frying, 184 
 on puddings in general, 212 
 on baked puddings, 213 
 
 on eggs, 224 
 on potting, curing, &c., 232 
 on hams, bacon, tongues, 
 
 sausages, &c., 237 
 
 on pasties, pies, &c., 260 
 
 on making preserves, 272 
 
 on fruits, 287 
 
 on vegetables, and on the 
 mode of choosing and 
 dressing them, 294 
 
 on French soups in general, 
 343 
 
 on the choice of wine and 
 wine cellars, 468 : 
 
 on coffee and liqueurs, 476- | 
 
 Omelette, plain, 228 
 plain, another, 395 
 with fine herbs, 395 
 soufflée, 396 
 soufflée, another, 396 
 souffiée, after Caréme, 398 
 souffiée, 4 la Vanille, 398 
 soufilée, au Marasquin, 399 
 Onions a la créme, 400 
 to pickle, 284 
 to prepare, for seasoning, 300 
 Orange sponge, 255 
 custards, 268 
 marmalade, 276 
 marmalade, another, 277 
 marmalade, transparent, 277 
 wine, 320 
 Oranges, to preserve whole, 277 
 Ovens, the various kinds of, 8 
 Ox’s tongue, direction for carving 
 an, 20 
 Oysters, to pickle, 146 
 the Russian way, 429 
 
 Paillasse (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 Pain de veau, 42 
 Paner, 42 
 Panures, 42 
 Parer, 42 
 Partridges, trussing of, 14 
 to carve, 23 
 
 491 
 
 Partridges, to pot, 191 
 to roast, 196 
 Paste for the Timballe, 262 
 for timbales, another, 381 
 for hot pies, 380 
 for trouts, 880 
 half-puff, 380 
 puff, 262 
 short, 264 
 Pasty pan, observation on the 
 potato, 8 
 Paupiettes (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 
 Pea-fowls, to roast, 196 
 Peas powder, 246 
 ‘purée of dried, 295 
 green, remarks on, 296 
 and roots, maigre, 304 
 green, to preserve, 309 
 Pepper-pot, a, 327 
 water, 331 
 Perch, to dress, Dutch fashion, 421 
 Perches in wine, 354 
 Perdrix a la Crapaudine, 391 
 salmi de, 391 
 Pheasant, to truss a, 14 
 to carve a, 23 
 the Spanish mode of dress- 
 ing, 413 
 to roast, 196 
 Piccalilli, to pickle, 285 
 Pickle for brawn, 289 
 for green fruit or vegetables, 
 289 
 for lemons, 289 
 Indian, 289 
 Pie, oyster, 423 
 Cyrus Redding’s leek, 231. 
 a cold hare or rabbit, boned 
 or unboned, 190 
 a cold, of partridges, young 
 or old, 190 
 a cold French, 381 
 a salmon, 191 
 a Marrow, 192 
 a woodcock, 210 
 a partridge, 211 
 potato (Cornish fashion), 230 
 turnip and potato (Cornish 
 fashion), 230 
 
492 
 
 Pie, conger (Cornish fashion), 231 
 mackarel (Cornish fashion), 
 231 
 leek and apple (Cornish fa- 
 shion), 231 
 turnip (Cornish fashion ), 231 
 parsley (Cornish fashion), 231 
 Pies, mince, 263 
 lemon mince, 263 
 fish, 144 
 of poultry or game, 191 
 Pig, roasted, 21 
 to roast a sucking, 178 
 Pigeons, to truss, 13 
 for roasting, 13 
 for pies, 13 
 to carve, 24 
 a la Crapaudine, 377 
 Pilau, a, 329 
 Pilchards to broil, 133 
 to choose, 113 
 Piqué (explanation of terms), 42 
 Pish pash, Indian dish, 327 
 Plate, invention of a broiling and 
 stewing, 7 
 Plates, hot, great improvement 
 in, 6 
 Plovers, to truss, 14 
 to roast, 196 
 Pluckkefisk, 424 
 Poélé (explanation of terms), 42 
 Polish baba, 437 
 Populo, to make, 442 
 Pork, observations on, 5 
 to carve a leg of, 18 
 to carve a spare-rib of, 19 
 general remarks on, 173 
 * roast leg of, 178 
 a griskin of, 179 
 a chine of, 179 
 a spare-rib of, 179 
 a loin of, 179 
 pickled leg of, 182 
 to boil pickled, 182 
 to pickle, 240 
 sausages, 241 
 pickle for, which is to be 
 eaten soon, 240 
 chops, to broil, 184 
 Pot au feu de maison, 85 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Potato balls, 308 
 pastry, 230 . 
 Potatoes 4 la maitre @’hétel, 307 ; 
 Potted calf’s feet, 324 
 Potted lampreys, 324 
 Portugal tart, 441 q 
 Portuguese method of dressing 
 eggs, 439 : 
 method of dressing soles, 439 
 method of making stuffing 
 for baked soles, 439 ; 
 way of mincing beef, 440 
 way of dressing apples, 440 
 way of making a matelot — 
 with several sorts of fish, — 
 440 q 
 way of dressing lampreys, 441 
 Potting little birds, 232 : 
 veal, 232 
 beef, 232 
 Poulets a la Paysanne, 393 q 
 Poultry, time it requires to dress, — 
 201 } 
 observations on, 5 
 Puchero, receipt for a, 414 
 Puit (explanation of terms ), 42 
 Purée (explanation of terms), 42 
 Pudding, vermicelli, 214 
 cabinet, 214 
 a cheap and good, 214 
 cheese, 215 
 bread, 215, 
 rice, 215 
 plum, 215 
 roll, 216 
 bread and butter, 216 _ 
 TAB OM: 216 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 -~2 H 
 
 nutmeg, 217 
 
 brandy, 217 
 
 tapioca, 217 A 4 
 
 the Bakewell, or Derbyshire, 
 218  : 
 
 a plain lemon, 218 
 
 Dr. Kitchener’s, 218 
 
 ratafia, 219 
 
 a plain, 219 
 
 cake, 219 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Pudding, a rice and fruit, 219 
 
 semolina, 220 
 
 semolina, another, 220 i 
 
 semolina, a plain baked, 220 
 
 semolina, a rich, 220 
 
 semolina, a boiled, 221 
 
 semolina, a rich steamed, 221 
 
 potato, 222 
 
 baked apple, 222 
 
 orange, 222 
 
 Cumberland, 222 
 
 a rich plum, 222 
 
 plum, another, 223 
 
 plum, another, 223 . 
 
 tapioca, another, 223 
 
 cabinet, another, 223 
 
 cottage, 223 
 
 carrot, 264 
 
 citron, 264 
 
 black, 241 
 
 a French, 376 
 
 Punch, Norfolk, 313 
 
 Norfolk, another, 313 
 
 vendor, or milk, 313 
 
 an excellent method of mak- 
 ing, 314 
 
 4 la Romaine, 315 
 
 to keep in bottles, 316 
 
 tea, 316 
 
 tea, another, 316 
 
 milk, to make twelve bottles, 
 316 
 
 a la Romaine, another, 317 
 
 milk, another, 317 
 
 a good receipt for, 317 
 
 Quails, to roast, 196 
 Quenelles (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 a la Juvenal, in honour of the 
 ancient Roman poet, 403 
 
 Rabbits, to carve, 22 
 
 to dress, 198 
 
 legs of, a la Maintenon, 392 
 Ranges, modern cooking, 7 
 Raspberry water, 319 
 Raspberries, fromage of, 425 
 Ravigotte a l’Ude, 376 
 
 another, 376 
 
 
 
 493 
 
 Red mullets with maitre @hdétel 
 : sauce, 356 
 with sweet herbs, 356 
 with sweet herbs, another 
 way, 356 
 to broil, 133 
 to broil, another way, 133 
 Red cabbage, to pickle, 284 
 Reeves and ruffs, to roast, 196 
 Receipt for a sore throat, 458 
 for an invalid, 458 
 for a cough or a cold, 463 
 for chapped hands, 464 
 to make orgeat, 464 
 to make straw varnish, 464 
 Rice rock, 254 
 to boil, 337 
 to boil, another way, 338 
 and quenelles ala Seville, 412 
 to boil, 392 
 Roasting apparatus, 8 
 Rognons de moutons au vin de 
 Champagne a I’Italienne, 
 391 
 Roux, 42 
 Russian rissoles, 428 
 patties, 428 
 raised pie, 428 
 tea, 459 
 
 Saboticre (explanation of terms), 
 42 
 Salad of fowl, 397 
 of potato, 416 
 Saline draughts, delicious, 317 
 Salmon, to carve, 24 
 boiled, 185 
 to ragout, 144 
 to pickle, undressed, 145 
 to pickle, cold, 145 
 grilled, 354 
 to serve, as at the table: of 
 George IV., 123 
 to boil, to make salmon 
 cutlets, 124 
 the Donegal pickle for, as used 
 by Dr, Sheil the propri- 
 etor of the fisheries, 12 
 a jowl of, Dutch way, 423 
 with a cray-fish cullis, 122 
 
494 INDEX. 
 
 Salmon, to boil, 109 
 to cure, 118 
 Salpicons, 293 
 Salsifis, fried, 308 
 Salt water to boil fish in, 358 
 cod, to dress, Dutch fashion, 
 423 
 Snipes, to truss, 14 
 Sasser (explanation of terms), 43 
 Sauce, tournée and velouté, 43 
 egg, 149 
 green, 150 
 lemon, 150 
 fish, without butter, 150 
 the old currant, for venison, 
 151 
 tomato, or love apple, 151 
 tomato, or love apple, ano- 
 ther, 151 
 tomato, or love apple, supe- 
 rior, 151 
 for wild duck, or teal, 152 
 for geese, 152 
 bread, 152 
 bread, another, 152 
 for fish pies, 153 
 oyster for fowl or turkey, 153 
 and seasoning for goose, 153 
 for green goose, 154 
 green or sorrel, 154 
 for celery, when celery is not 
 in season, 154 
 for boiled fowls and turkeys, 
 154 
 brown, 154 
 shalot for boiled mutton, 154 
 mint, 155 
 white, sharp, 155 
 green mint, 155 
 for cold fowl or partridge, 155 
 a very fine mushroom, 155 
 fennel or gooseberry, 156 
 sage and onion, or goose stuff- 
 ing, 156 
 ham, 156 
 sweet, for hare and venison, 
 156 
 truffle, 157 
 rice, 157 
 mushroom, 157 
 
 Sauce, parsley and butter, Bre 
 
 eye of preparing tne 
 
 tobatert 158 
 
 cockle, 158 = 
 
 fennel, 158 
 
 shrimp, 158 
 
 anchovy, 159 
 
 for a pig, 159 
 
 oyster, 159 
 
 for cold fowl or game, 160 
 
 for hare, 160 
 
 for venison, 160 
 
 white or French melted but- _ 
 ter, 160 . 
 
 for boiled turkey, 161 
 
 for capon, 161 — 
 
 for boiled mutton, 161 
 
 caper, for fish, 162 
 
 grill, 162 7 
 shalot for boiled mutton, 
 162 
 
 garlic, 162 
 
 for fish, 162 
 
 cream, for hare, 163 
 
 Wordsworth, 163 
 
 celery purée, 163 
 
 pindar, 163 
 
 a la Walesby, 163. 
 
 horse-radish, 164 
 
 lobster, another, 164 
 
 lobster, superior, 164 
 
 oyster, another, 164 
 
 oyster, superior, 165 
 
 superlative, 165 
 
 provengale, 165 
 
 for chops, &c., 166 
 
 salad, 166 
 
 white, for fillets of mackarel, 
 166 
 
 chervil, 166 
 
 egg, for salt cod, 168 
 
 lemon, 168 
 
 of Seville oranges, 169 | 
 
 fennel, another, 169 
 
 a brown onion, 169 
 
 onion, 170 
 
 for light puddings, 171 
 
 currant, 171 
 
 a fruit, 171 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sauce, for cabinet pudding, 171 
 pudding, 171 
 blanc, 358 
 Spanish, or brown, 358 
 a la matelote, for fish, 359 
 la Ducelle, after Beauvillier’s 
 
 receipt, 359 
 
 poor man’s, 359 
 tournée, 359 
 a l’Allemande, 359 
 Gascony, 360 
 anchovy butter, 360 
 velouté, 360 
 velouté, another, 361 
 white roux, 361 
 sharp, 361 
 supréme, 362 
 Robert, 362 
 a la Mirepoix, 362 
 German, 362 
 béchamel, 363 
 béchamel, another, 364 
 sharp, another, 364 
 Robert, another, 364 
 au supréme, 364 
 tomate, 365 
 ala Tartare, another, 365 
 herb, 365 
 pour la salade, 366 
 garlic, 4 la provengale, 366 
 French, 366 
 cream, 366 
 white onion, 367 
 garlic butter, 367 
 a la Tartare, cold, 367 
 poivrade, 367 
 poivrade maigre, 368 
 minced, 368 
 béchamel maigre, 368 
 béchamel, or white, 369 
 thickened butter, 369 
 poor man’s, another, 369 
 a la Tartare, another, 370 
 aux hatelettes, 37 
 Spanish, 412 
 German, 417 
 plain Dutch, 424 
 for meat or fish, 424 
 cream, 425 
 cold anchovy, 425 
 
 495 
 
 Sauce, raspberry, 425 
 cherry, 425 
 for asparagus, 459 
 Sausages, French, 373 
 Arles, 374 
 French mode of making, 374 
 Italian, 409 
 Sautez (explanation of terms), 43 
 Sauer krout, to make, 416 
 to dress, 417 
 Savoury ragoit powder, 290 
 Screens, remarks on meat, 8 
 Scollops of lobsters in the shell, 
 142 
 oysters, 143 
 Scolloped lobster, 145 
 Scotch barley broth, 101 
 Shrimps, to scollop, 144 
 Soda water, to make, 317 
 Soles, to carve, 25 
 dressed with sweet herbs, 
 141 
 salad of, 143 
 au gratin, 355 
 in the German mode, 415 
 Dutch way, 422 
 fillets of, ala Horly, 354 
 a sauté of, 4 la maitre d’hotel, 
 354 
 Soufflée, imitation of a, 412 
 ginger, 260 
 Soup, spring, 78 
 the old Scotch brown, 86 
 white stock for, 90 
 a, with hop-tops, 96 
 mutton cutlet, 97 
 rice, 98 
 macaroni, 98 
 a cheap, 98 
 oyster, 99 
 stock for fish, 99 
 eel, 100 
 portable, 103 
 Mullaghee Taunee, or curry, 
 339 
 mulligatawny, 337 
 rabbit, 344 
 turnip and pea, 345 
 celery and chevril, 346 
 cabbage, 346 
 
496 
 
 Soup, clean vermicelli, 346 
 of a purée of fowl, qeen’s 
 fashion, 346 
 ala J ulienne, 348 
 of a purée of young peas, 
 347 . 
 turnip, 349 a 
 onion, 349 : 
 mock turtle in the Parisian 
 fashion, 349 
 Queen’s, 350 
 of a purée of young carrots, 
 351 
 onions, 351. 
 lentils, 351 
 rice, a la Creci, 352 
 carrot, 352 
 turnip, 352 
 onion, 352 
 pearl barley, a la royale, 352 
 _ of capon, Spanish way, 411 
 of Spain—the national, 411 
 German celery, for fast days 
 418 
 celery, Dutch, 419 
 of eels, Dutch, 419 
 of herrings roes a l’Erasme, 
 420 
 of fish a Ja Flessingue, 420 
 white sago, 425 
 the Russian countrywoman’s, 
 427 
 the Russian imperial, 427 
 the Russian fish, 430 
 of fillets of perch, 4 la Ca- 
 tharine HU, 431 
 German giblet, 482 
 of sauer krout, 432 
 of fowl, a la Baden, 432 
 Le Barch, 433 
 autumn, 80 
 Flemish, 445 
 cabbage, 79 
 clear gravy, 85 
 carrot, 94 
 carrot, another, 94 
 citizens, 96 
 stock for, 
 fish, 4 la Bagration, 401 
 macaroni, ila Rossini, 403 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Soup, macaroni, ala Ce 
 404 
 
 ee 
 
 Spinach curry, 328 
 
 Spits, observations on, 8 
 Squab-pie, 264 
 Stew, a turnip, 306 
 
 Stuffing, for hair or turkey, 194 
 Sturgeon, to roast a, 140 
 
 Sugar, to boil, 271 
 
 macaroni, a la Medicis, 405 
 
 macaroni, a la Sicilienne,: 405 5 
 
 maigre, 100 a 
 
 ox cheek, 91. ( 
 
 common broth maigre, 101 
 
 ox tail, 101 
 
 beef, for the sick, 104 
 
 ox head, 90 
 
 pea, a green, 93 io 
 
 pea, a green, superior,93 
 
 rice, white, 79 ae 
 
 rabbit, 89 
 
 gardener’s, 79 
 
 gravy, 86 
 
 giblet, 87 
 
 giblet, another, 87 
 
 game, 88 
 
 game, a more elaborate, 88 
 
 hare, 89 
 
 hare, superior, 88 
 
 leveret, 77 
 
 semolina, 403 
 
 real turtle, 71 
 
 mock turtle, 87 : 
 
 mock turtle, superior, 80. - 
 
 West Indian method of ede . a 
 ing turtle, 83 
 
 mock turtle, with cow-heel, 
 84 
 
 turnip, 93 
 
 for one or two persons, 100. 
 
 
 
 to dress, 295 
 remarks on, 298 ag 
 another way of dressing, 299 
 
 cradle, 8 
 
 another, 264 
 
 sauce for roast sturgeon, 140 
 utlets of, in paper, 354 ay 
 ala Romulus, 357 ; = 
 a l’Imperiale, 427 a? 3 
 to stew, 127 a 
 

 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sugar, to clarify, 270 
 
 Singez (explanation of terms), 43 
 Swiss custards, 444 
 
 Syrup for compotes, 399 
 
 Table, on laying out a, 25 
 Tamis or Tammy (explanation 
 of terms), 43 
 ‘Teal, to roast, 196 
 Tendrons (explanation of terms), 
 43 
 Thrushes, to roast, 196 
 To choose crabs and_ lobsters, 
 114 
 prawns and shrimps, 114 
 muscles and cockles, 114 
 Tomata Devil, 187 
 Tomata’s farcied, 307 
 Toleman, to make, 187 
 Tongue, to boil a, 234 
 to stew a, 239 
 an excellent way of dressing, 
 to eat cold, 239 
 and parmesan, 239 
 a pickled and glazed, 240 
 aneat’s, Polish way, 436 
 Tourner (explanation of terms), 
 ' 43 
 Tourte (explanation of terms), 
 ; 43 
 Truffles, to dress, 302 
 the proven¢ale way, 303 
 au court bouillon, 303 
 stewed in Champagne, 394 
 with Champagne wine, 397 
 sauté of, 402 
 and young partridges, 406 
 Turbot, to boil, 107 
 the most approved and fa- 
 shionable mode of dress- 
 ing, 108 
 with a parsley sauce, 109 
 béchamel, to dress, 121 
 Turkeys, 193 
 to roast, 198 
 for roasting, 11 
 young, roasted, 407 
 for boiling, 10 
 poults, 11 
 
 * 
 
 497 
 
 Turkey, to carve a, 24 
 Turnips, glazed, 393 
 with sugar, 394 
 Trouts, broiled, 135 
 broiled, with mushrooms, 
 137 
 dressed in a stew-pan, 137 
 grayling, perch, and tench, 
 to fry, 138 
 or pike a la Genevoise, 356 
 
 Vanilla custards, 399 
 Vanner, 43 
 Veal, observations on, 4 
 to carve a breast of, 19 
 to carve a fillet of, 21 
 to boil a knuckle of, 182 
 to dress tendrons of, 189 
 sweetbreads, 384 
 cutlets a VItalienne, 387 
 cotelettes de, ala Maintenon, 
 388 
 fricandeau de, a la Mainte- 
 non, 388 
 blanquettes de, a la Mainte- 
 non, 389 
 cutlets aux fines herbes, 389 
 ris de, ala Dauphine, 389 
 cutlets a l’Italienne, 402 
 to roast a loin of, 175 
 to roast a neck of, 175 
 Vegetables, macédoine of, 426 
 how to boil, 294 
 butter for frying, 294 
 marrow, 301 
 Venison, observations on, 5 
 to carve a haunch of, 20 
 to keep sweet, 197 
 pasty, to make, 261 
 pasty, to make, 
 262 
 Vinegar, shalot, 287 
 ‘garlic, 287 
 basil, 288 
 green mint, 289 
 chili, 292 
 camp, 292 
 tarragon, 292 
 horse-radish, 292 
 
 another, 
 
498 
 
 Walnut ketchup, 290 
 Walnuts, to pickle, 283 
 Water, Hungary, 448 
 honey, 448 
 lavender, 448 
 lime, 460 ‘ 
 tar, 460 a 
 a, to take spots of grease out 
 of stuffs, &c., 453 
 Wheatears, to dress, 208 
 roasted, 14 
 
 White braize, 128 - 
 Whitebait, directions for dress- 
 ing, 134 
 White kidney beans, to dress, 
 295 
 ala maitre d’hotel, 309 
 currant shrub, 315 
 
 noyeau, 318 
 poélé, 348 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 White, consommé, 363 
 wine whey, 449 
 Whitings with herbs, 355 
 
 Widgeons, to roast; 196 
 Wild ducks, to roast, 196 
 Wild geese, to roast, 196 
 Wine, shalot, 291 
 Woodcock, to truss, 14 
 roast, 207 
 roast, 196 
 
 Young turkeys with oysters, 424 
 partridges, Russian manner 
 of dressing, 428 
 rabbits, fricassées of, Russian 
 way of dressing, 429 
 
 partridges called bigocke, — 
 
 * 436 
 
 Zest for gravies, 270 * 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 The royal opiate, 321 
 To make spruce beer, 322 
 China chila, 328 
 capsicum curry, 330 
 ameetah, or sweet palaoo, 333 
 peish moulia, 335 
 To clean plate, 449 
 To make essence of all sorts of 
 flowers to serve to flavour 
 liqueurs, &c., 450 
 To loosen glass stoppers of bottles, 
 451 
 To make excellent starch from 
 potatoes, 451 
 To preserve potatoes from frost, 
 452 
 To prevent the freezing of water 
 in pipes in the winter, 452 
 To cure the ringworm, 453 
 To remove iron-moulds from linen, 
 453 
 To wash gold ornaments, 454 
 To destroy bugs, 454 
 another receipt, 454 
 To make French polish, 454 
 barley water, 455 
 strengthening bitter, 455 
 
 To make shoes waterproof, 460° 
 fumigating pastiles, 460 
 To clean pewter vessels and tin 
 covers, 461 
 
 looking glasses, and plate - 
 
 glass, 461 
 To preserve gilding, 461 2 
 To wash wine decanters, 461 
 
 To clean Britannia metal goods, oi 
 
 461 
 paint, 462 
 To make aniseed water, or ani- 
 seed brandy, 462 _ 
 marking ink, 462 
 apple water, 462 
 gingerbeer, 463 
 To clean boot tops, 463 
 To make lavender water, 464 
 emulsion for a cold, 464 — 
 British Champagne, 464 
 honeycomb gingerbread, 465 
 honeycomb gingerbread, ano- 
 ther, 465 @ 
 gooseberry wine, 465 
 To clean alabaster, or marble, 465 
 
 To take stains out of marble, oe | 
 
 466 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 A CARD. 
 
 
 
 BREGION, professed Cook, continues to dress Dinners, Sup- 
 pers for Balls, Petits Soupers, Déjeuners @ la Fourchette, and 
 Marriage Breakfasts in the same style, and on the same terms, which 
 have given such universal satisfaction for the last twenty years. 
 Letters addressed to him, at 36, South-street, Manchester-square, 
 will meet with immediate attention. 
 

 

 
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