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• For IRISH DAMASKS, LINENS, & HANDKERCHIEFS,-
ROBINSON and CLEAVER, BELFAST.
MATTHEWSS
USED IN THE
ROYAL NURSERIE8.
FULLERS EARTH
Avoid the many dangerous
and doubtful compounds
sold as Toilet Powders : al¬
ways ask for Mattbews's
Prepareb Fullers' Earth, used in the Royal Nurseries, and highly
recommended by the Faculty ; it protects the skin from hot winds, redness,
roughness, &c., and preserves the complexion.
Sold by all Chemists at 6d, and is.
Should always be used by the Seaside.
DR. GARTHSHORE'S
Tonic, Invigorating, Restorative Pills,
For Nervous Weakness and Debility, &c.
THESE Pills are singularly efficacious where the strength is impaired or
the various organs deprived of their proper tone, exerting their influ¬
ence over the whole nervous system, promoting and restoring the secretions
of nature into proper order, and re-establishing good health, however much
debilitated.
Forwarded free by post, on receipt of a Postal Order for 2s. 9d. or 4s. 6d., by
EDWARD CLEAVER {late Hanttay Co.),
39, GREAT PORTLAND STREET, LONDON, W.
Gold medal,
Paris, 1878.
JOSEPH GILLOTT'S
CELEBRATED
BY ALL DEALERS THROUGHOUT THE WORLD.
Every Packet
bears the
Jac-simile
Signature,
Ll
VjV ^0^ HOT SUN f°tie rCr
and dust should frequently he soothed bv the application of
ftpwlandA'
Ralyaor
which is a delightfully soothing and emollient preparation for the skin and
Complexion; it
REMOVES SUNBURN,
tan, freckles, roughness and redness of the skin, soothes insect stings, irritation
and all other cutaneous affections, renders the skin soft, smooth and delicate, and
produces a beautifully fair and
DELICATE COMPLEXION.
Ladies cannot do without it who value their complexion. Bottles 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d,;
half-sized bottles 2s. 3d.
NERVOUS EXHAUSTION.
PULVERMACHER'S WORLD-FAMED GALVANIC BELTS, for the
_ cure of NERVOUS EXHAUSTION AND DEBILITY, have
received Testimonials from Three Physicians to Her Majesty the Queen, and
over Forty Members of the Royal College of Physicians of London.
The distressing symptoms of NERVOUS EXHAUSTION AND
DEBILITY are speedily removed by means of PULVERMACHER'S
WORLD-FAMED GALVANIC BELTS, which are so arranged as to
convey a powerful electric current direct to the affected parts, gradually
stimulating and strengthening all the nerves and muscles, and speedily
arresting all symptoms of waste and decay.
Dr. VINES, Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians, writes, 19th September, 1885
"Having used Mr. PULVERMACHER'S BELTS for many years, in the course of
medical practice, I am in a position to speak of their great value as a curative agent in
cases of nervous disease or functional malady where Electricity is likely to be serviceable.
I am entirely convinced of their efficacy."
Dr. C. HANDFIELD JONES, F.R.C.P., F.R.S.; Physician to St. Mary's Hospital,
says" I am satisfied that Mr. PULVERMACHER is an honest and earnest labourer
in the field of science, and I think he deserves to meet with every encouragement from
the Profession and scientific men."
Dr. GOI.DING BIRD, M.D., Physician, Guy's Hospital, says:—" I can hardly recom¬
mend Mr. PULVERMACHER'S INVENTION too strongly to the notice of my medical
brethren."
For Full List and Particulars see New Pamphlet.
" GALVANISM : Natural Chief Restorer of Impaired Vital Energy."
POST-FREE FROM
PULVERMACHER'S GALVANIC ESTABLISHMENT,
194, REGENT STREET, LONDON.
FURNISH THROUGHOUT (.REGD■).
OETZMANN & Co.,
67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77. and 79,
HAMPSTEAD ROAD
(JVear Tottenham Court Road, London).
Carpets, Furniture, Bedding,
Drapery, Furnishing Ironmongery,
China, Glass, etc.
Orders per post receive prompt and faithful attention.
LUXURIOUS DIVAN EASY CHAIR
62s. 6d.
SUPERIOR DITTO, 75s. Double Sutherland, or Five
A Large Stock of o'clock Tea Table.
a ^TTAT-r-k^ Measures, when open, 30m. oy
E A S Y C Pi A 1 iri S. 24111. Top part, 22m. by 20m.
ALWAYS ON VIEW Hcglit, 30m. _
Walnut or Ebonised 15
IN THE SHOW ROOMS. Ebonised or Gold 2 2
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE,
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In Town or Country, Register Free.
KILLARNEY:
ITS LAKES AND SCF.NERi.
I
WALKDEN'S
Est 1735. INKS. Est. 1735.
+ BLACK, * BLUE - BLACK, *
*£• SCARLET. *•
DENNISON'S
UNRIVALLED
DIRECTION TAGS,
3Efor (Smmais,
In Id., 2d., and 3d. Packets,
WITH STRINGS.
^
OP STATIONERS EVERYWHERE
I
B allint/i -anfi\Jun
Boon,
B aJlybtumio 11'
'ter-anenaxfh
tirnericlc Jh'k
^rfPERA
Ballitu/ctrt^
L/S TOW EL
B ally duff /
Sattoo Ajobey
Scale of Miles
zJ&iocklorig'
liar/ways.
Crutch / tonic
Cur Routes.--
EUmallot
BaZLyheigt
Chfcxle'
^dpatrick
'Ckurekto tone
is car roll
Zildorrerj
Three- Sister#
e I
Sybil
Fermters Co%^
Clooha'E^C t1
&tartwori/v
^cartapltn.
AvyTvusj
■R. Br o (teen
7.)/
MinariL
rniharc
tfuarrial
Xas.
Castlelyons
Hojibehyi
StuaJce
\allycarber
lyvoumey
Jja
%0»4
igfiayrit
VALESTTIA
ISL?T^~
ichfordj.
MACROOM
BxayHf
ortmayee
Great I. h*_
5^UTenstqwn
j7 C>Spike*^*j4(f7iada
ifgmden. ^CavKsUFtj
t/}r\ (\lhabolhaib
EnEaghmt
Puffin* I.,
fonksto
IcJulic
Si Fin art's Bay
leerFlton IBlnxu&j^
TLcadbov
Brlnm
_ <pTittle
SfSTxlltgB.1
Bolus BC
inneit.
BANDON
CoutoS*1
tascart \
itlam o tear/ ueJ^SC
=- t'ouffmacslaJ
Beat 1.
Lbspatrick I'Is,
Eolcopen B.
'Bursey
^Jlcurs
Three Castle
*ookhaven
Mizeu HeacL^
Clear I.
Cape Clear
Ward
PICTORIAL
and lock's
y\ND H 13 T 0 I CA.L
GUIDE
ro
KILLARNEY,
Jfis Jakes atitr Saner#;
with excursions to
CORK, GLENGARRIFF,
AND OTHER PLACES IN THE DISTRICT,
A > P. <£» \ A v
<*<'•*" <r *• C. w i
®rt£ ItJfajjs anil gttasstralicms,
WARD, LOCK, akd Co.
London: Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.C.
New York : 10, Bond Street.
A LUXURY
UNKNOWN IN ENGLAND.
gARBEB & QQMPANYS
(See that you have none other.)
HDHMPLI As Used
r lit IN UN inPais
1°d COFFEE
IN ITS HIGHEST PERFECTION \J \J | | L_
This is the Choicest and most carefully selected Coffee,
" Roasted on the French principle," and mixed with
the Finest Bruges Chicory.
2lbs. Sample in tins sent free for 2s. 4d. by Parcels
Post to any Post Town in the United Kingdom and
Channel Islands ; and slbs. in Tins for 5s. 6d.
BARBER and COMPANY,
274, Regent Circus, Oxford St, W.
61, BISHOPSGATE STREET, E.C.
Manchester, Birmingham, Brighton, Hastings,
Bristol, Preston, and Liverpool.
Remittances to be crossed " London and Westminster
Bankf Postal Orders from is. 6 d. to I or. 6 d. can
now be obtained for One Penny at all Post Offices.
CONTENTS.
—«—
PACi
Introduction ......... i
Routes to Killarney 5
Dublin to Killarney ....... 9
Killarney and the Lakes ai
First Day . *6
Second Day 33
Third Day . 40
Fourth Day ........ 49
Fifth Day « • 59
Dingle Bay and the Coast of Kerry ... 6a
Killarney to Glengarriff and Cork, by the Prince of
Wales's Route ........ 67
Programme of the Route . . See next Page
The City of Cork 81
Blarney Castle and Stone , • . • . . 87
Queenstown and its Harbour , • . ; . 91
Yougiial and the Blackwater .... 99
Corr to Glengarriff and Killarney, by the Macroom
Route » • • . • . • • 109
Prize Medals—Dublin, 1882 ; Cork, 1883.
Bog-Oak and Arbutus Emporium
No. 4, MAIN STREET, KILLARNEY,
JAMES COAKLET,
j C. respsetftilty invite* the attention of Tourists to Hi New a*A Beautiful
VIEWS OF 'KILLARNEY.
TOURISTS will please OBSERVE the ADDRESS.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
The Prinee of Wales' Route to Bantry Bay,
Glengariff, and Killarney,
VA Cork stud Bandon lien Valley and Bantry Railways.
From May to October, well-appointed Coaches and Cars will run
through the season daily (Sundays excepted) between Bantry, Glengariff^
Kenmare, and Killarney, to meet trains to and from Cork (stopping at
Vickery's Hotel, Bantry, for refreshments)
Tickets issued at the Cork station, at the Queen's Hotel, Queenstow^
at the Coach Office, Killarney, at the Eccles" Hotel, Glengariff, at Kings*
bridge Terminus, Dublin, by Thomas Cook and Son, and H. Gaze and Son,
tourist agents, London, and at the London (Euston), Birmingham, Liverpool,
Manchester, and other principal stations of the London and North-Western
Railway.
Tickets issued at Paddington (London) and other principal stations of the
Great Western Railway Co.; and by the Cork Steam Packet Co., at London,
Bristol, Liverpool, and Plymouth.
Through Bares (including Driver's Fees) between
Cork and Killarney, First class, 22/- Second class, 21/-
Cork and Glengariff, ,, 12/- f, II/-
Cork to Glengaripf and Return ) . al m/o
Available for One Month | •» M '
Glengariff and Killarney by Car^ 10/-
Cork to Glengariff & Killarney.
a.m. p.m.
Cork (dep.) rail 9.10 3.0
p.m. p.m. a.m
Bantry dep. (coach) 1.0 6.0 7. to"
p.m. p.m. a.m.
Glbncariff (arr.) 2.45 7.45 9-0
Killarney & Glengariff to Cork.
Killarney (def) 9.30 a.m.
Kenmare (arr.) 1.15 p.m.
Do. (dep.) 1.45 p.m.
Glengariff (arr.)...5.30 p.m.f
a-m. a.m. p.m.
Glengariff (dep.) 6.30 11.90.3.35!
a.m. p.m. p.m.
Bantry dep. (rail) 8.35 2.0 6.50
a.m. p.m. p.m.
Cork (am)..., 11.30 5 59.35
Glengariff (dep.) 9.15 a.m.
Next morning from Eccles'HofeL
KBNMAREfayr.) 1. o p.m.
Do. (dep.) l30 p.m.
Killarney (arr.) 5.15 p.m.
•Next morning from Vickery's Hotel, arriving at Glengariff in time for
tourist car for KUlamey.
t At Eccles' Hotel, calling at Roche's with passengers,
j From Eccles' Hotel, calling at Roche's for passengers.
This is the only route running through Bantry to Killarney and Glengariff.
From the Cork Press, of 1858 : His Reryal Highness and suite having
recently selected the above route indisputably stamps it as the most desirable
and picturesque route for tourists.
Punch of Nov. 18th, 1876, says:—Go from Dublin to Cork, from Cork to
Drimoleague, from Drimoleague to Glengariff, stay at Glengariff, and then
onto Killarney, taking the Tore and Muckross on the way, and I'll have
ye plazed by ye get to KlHarney."
Circular Tours in connection with the Great Southern and Western
Raitbttg-y of Ireland Company.
Company's Offices. Albert Quay, ALEX. GORDON, Manager.
Cork. 1887.
MAPS AND COLOURED PLATES.
MAPS.
South-West of Ireland .
Killarney Lakes ....
Plan of Cork ....
COLOURED PLATES.
Rock and Ruins of Cashel.
The Meeting of the Waters
The Lower Lake, Killarney
The Purple Mountains .
Ross Castle .
View from Innesfallen . .
The Upper Lake ....
Turnpike, Gap of Dunloe
Old Weir Bridge ,
Tore, or Middle Lake . . ,
Queenstown Harbour . .
Frontispiece
To face page 20
81
To face page 15
25
29
37
4i
45
49
53
57
59
95
VIOKERY'3 pm,
The Nearest Hotel to the Railway Station,
BANTRY,
ESTABLISHED i#5S.
"^ISITORS to the beautiful scenery of this
district will find at above every comfort,
combined with cleanliness and moderate
charges.
tgsf The Tourist Coaches for Glengariff and
Killarney start from this Hotel.
1/
se .*4
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
"THE IiflKE JI0TEL."
I
T is essential to apprise tourists, that there is, at Killarney,
but ONE ESTABLISHMENT, called
"THE LAKE HOTEL."
It is situated in the Bay ofe-Castlelough, on the eastern shore of the
Lower Lake, in the centre of tn4 varied scenery.of the district, and within
ten minutes' drive of the railway station.
Its grounds adjoin those of Muckross, in which is the celebrated abbey
of the same name, one of the most interesting and best preserved rnins
in Ireland.
THE LAKE HOTEL OMNIBUS
attends the arrival and departure of the trains.
NOTICE OF THE PRESS.—"It (The Lake Hotel) is situated
on the Bay of Castlelough, on the eastern shore of the Lower Lake,
directly on the water's edge, and within ten minutes' drive of the station.
Adjoining the hotel, is the Abbey of Muckross—access at all times.
The situation of the hotel is unsurpassed ; occupying the centre of the
circle described by the mountain-ranges of Mangerton, Tore, Eagle's
Nest, Purple Mountains, Glena, Toomies, Dunloe Gap, and jCarrantaul,
it concentrates in one view all that is graceful, picturesque, and sublime
in the scenery of Killarney. The bed-rooms and sitting-rooms face the
lake, and the arrangements of the hotel are all that can be desired."—
Harper s Hand-book for Travellers in Europe and the East.
Easy terms made for parties remaining a week or longer,
and a specially reduced tariff struck for winter months
(October to June), inclusive.
For particulars apply to the Manager.
E. M. BERNARD, Proprietor.
N.B.—It is the Only Hotel in Killarney
situated on the Lake Shore.
StV oy vt ww ov ww ww ov
KILLARNEY
AND THE
SOUTH-WEST OF IRELAND.
HE district described in the following pages
includes the greater portion of two of the
largest and most interesting counties in
Ireland, those of Cork and Kerry. The
former has an area of 1,849,686 acres, and is
an important maritime county, watered by
several beautiful streams, of which two, the
Blackwater and the Lee, expand into large
and useful estuaries, the latter forming the
important harbour of Queenstown, the last
port of call in the United Kingdom of most
of our outward-bound American steamers.
Another of the rivers of this county, the
Awbeg, is rendered classic by the fact of
Spenser having laid the chief scenes of his
" Faery Queen" on its banks ; he speaks of it as " the
gentle Mulla." The western portion of the county is wild
and boggy, and contains several ranges of lofty mountains ;
Killartliy. I
2 Killarney and the South-West of Ireland.
and the coast is bold and rocky, pierced by numerous
indentations which form excellent harbours. Many small
islands lie off it; the most interesting of them all being
Clear Island—the cape of which is the first land sighted by
the Atlantic steamers on their return from the New World.
The county of Kerry, the fourth in size in Ireland, contains
1,185,918 acres, and is remarkably romantic and interesting.
In it are situated the famous Killarney Lakes, and it contains
the loftiest of the Irish mountains, Carran Tual, the peak of
which is 3,410 feet above the level of the sea. Its coast is of
the same character as that of Cork ; and one of its islands,
Valentia, has of late years attained importance from the fact
of the shore end of the Atlantic telegraph cable being located
on it. The origin of the name of the county has given rise
to various theories, more or less accurate. Some writers—
amongst them Ledwich—tell us that it is a corruption of the
Irish word, cerrig, or carric, which signifies a rock ; and add
that the county was anciently called Cerrigia, or the rocky
country. Others affirm that the word Kerry is derived from
the name of Ciar, the eldest son of Fergus, king of Ulster,
from whom it was called Ciar Reeght, or " the kingdom of
Ciar;" and we are also assured that the district was formerly
known as Ciarnidhe Luachra, or " the rocky place on the
great lake of water," and that its present title may be traced
to that formidable name.
The entire district is beautiful and interesting ; and causes
one to marvel at the expense and trouble which so many of
our neighbours incur in order to visit foreign parts, when
scenery which equals (if it does not surpass) that which they
go so far to see is to be found within the limits of their own
country. The district noticed in the following pages has
been described by an eminent French writer as "the image
of Ireland;" and Thackeray gives us the features of that
image, when he says that it is " ragged, ruined, and cheerful."
Its inhabitants have taken an active part in all the events
which have shaken society in Ireland since the dawn of
history. Ptolemy tells us that in his day they were known
as Velabri, or Vellibori. They are supposed to have been
descended from the Iberi of Spain. But Camden derives
their name from the British aber, signifying an estuary,
thus making it descriptive of the country.
We cannot here detail the various political and social
changes which have passed over the district; but we may
note that the number of ruins scattered about it prove that,
in the "brave days of old" it was thickly populated, and
Killarney and the South-Wed of Ireland. 3
to the antiquarian is now a mine of interest. In one barony
alone—that of Corkaguiny—the late Richard Hitchcock,^of
Trinity College, Dublin, gives a list of ancient remains dotted
over the country, which comprised " eleven stone cahers,
three cairns, forty caluraghs or obsolete burial grounds,
where unbaptized children only are interred ; ten castles,
eighteen artificial caves, twenty-one churches in ruins, and
nine church sites ; two hundred and eighteen cloghans, or
beehive-shaped stone houses ; sixteen cromleacs, twelve
large stone crosses, three hundred and twenty-six earthen
forts, one hundred and thirteen gallans, or immense rude
standing stones ; fifty-four monumental pillars, most of them
bearing Ogham inscriptions ; fifteen oratories, nine peni¬
tential stations, sixty-six wells—many of them bearing the
name of a saint ; and twenty-nine miscellaneous remains."
At Rattoo is one of the ancient " round towers" in an
almost perfect state of preservation, but the best
known is that at Aghadoe, on the shores of
the Lower Lake at Killarney. This stands on
an eminence, three hundred feet high, and
though only about fifteen feet of the edifice still
remain, its summit commands one of the finest
views in the neighbourhood. Being easy of
access, it is visited by most tourists.
The climate of the district, notwithstanding
its humidity, is mild and wholesome ; and
instances of unusual longevity amongst the
peasantry are common. The soil in many parts
is well adapted for tillage, and the glorious sheen in which
most of the glens are clad is a proof of its fertility. A small
breed of cattle, suitable to mountain farming and remark¬
ably hardy, and a specially rough and thrifty class of ponies
have long been known in the country. The latter are said
to be of Spanish extraction, and are as noted for their
endurance as for the great burden they will carry ; in gentle¬
ness and sagacity, they are unequalled by any breed. The
visitor at Killarney may have frequent opportunities of test¬
ing their excellent qualities ; he can ride almost to the
summit of Carran Tual or Mangerton, and although the path
is rugged and narrow, approaching some frightful precipices
and leading over dangerous bogs, such is the sure-footedness
and instinct of the steed, that he invariably brings him home
safely, with no worse calamity than the flurry of his own
timidity.
The flora of this favoured region is more diversified than
4 Killarney and the South-West of Ireland.
that of any other part of Ireland ; it abounds in those plants
which luxuriate in a moist climate. The arbutus, the holly,
the yew, the myrtle, and the juniper unite in imparting an
aspect of perpetual verdure to the woods of the district. On
the shores of the estuary of the Kenmare river prostrate
juniper occurs ; and the arbutus is par excellence the tree of
Killarney, its beautiful evergreen leaves giving to the shores
of the lakes and the mountain slopes the peculiar charm and
freshness which characterize them. It grows in many other
parts of Ireland, yet nowhere so well or so profusely as here.
The peculiar nature of the soil and the constant humidity of
the atmosphere cause it to attain a conspicuous size and
flourish with a luxuriousness unknown elsewhere. On Dinish
Island there are several magnificent arbutus trees ; and the
guides will show the stump of an old one which measures
fully seven feet in circumference. But these are exceptions,
as the arbutus seldom attains the tall dignity of a great
forest-tree. The arbutus is popularly known as " the straw¬
berry tree," from the resemblance which its seed-pods bear
to that luscious fruit. But let not the unwary stranger be
tempted to eat them. If he do so, he will find them uninviting
and tasteless. Taken in too great quantities, they are said
to produce stupefaction, and symptoms of narcotic poisoning;
and Pliny tells us that he who eats one will not be eager to
taste another. However, fancy differs ; and in other climes
they attain culinary importance. In the Levant, they are
esteemed wholesome, large, and pleasant. In Spain, sugar
and strong spirit have been made, and in Corsica good wine
extracted, from them.". The serrated leaves of the plant, which
somewhat resemble the bay, are of a fine green ; clusters of
greenish-white flowers adorn the cinnamon-coloured branches,
alternating with bright scarlet berries—all contributing to
give the tree an appearance of luxuriousness equally elegant
and unique.
AN OUTSIDE CAR.
ROUTES TO KILLARNEY.
1AVING thus indicated the chief features of the
district of which we propose to treat in the follow¬
ing pages, we will now show the tourist how he
may reach Killarney ; and then proceed to tell
him how he may best and most comfortably enjoy the many
pleasant sights and scenes awaiting him. This guide is
arranged on the supposition that he will travel via Holyhead
and Dublin ; and we will therefore first of all indicate the
various routes by which the former town may be reached.
Holyhead is, as we all know, the western terminus of the
London and North-Western Railway, whose line from Crewe
to Chester and along the northern coast of Wales, crosses
the Menai Straits by Stephenson's celebrated tubular bridge,
and conveys the mails between the sister islands. The steam-
packets to North Wall and to Kingstown are luxuriously
fitted up and are among the fastest and most comfortable
cross-channel boats in the United Kingdom—we had almost
said in the world.
Boats leave Holyhead for Kingstown, carrying the mails, twice every
day ; and three times daily between Holyhead and North Wall.
The hours at which they commence their voyages and the trains in
connection with them leave the various stations on the railway are
subject to change, so that the tourist will do well to consult the
time-tables issued by the company (or Bradshaw) before starting.
We may state that the time occupied in travelling from London to
Dublin by the mail train and steamers is about eleven hours, and
by the North Wall route about twelve and a half; and that the
cost of a tourist's return ticket (available from June to December)
from some of the chief stations on the line to KilLrnp^^
6
Routes to Killarney.
By mail steamers
By express steamers
via Kingstown.
via North Wall.
From
First
Second
First
Second
Third
class.
class.
class.
class.
class.
5. d.
.S. d.
■j. d.
j. d.
London (Euston) ....
115 0
95 0
105 0
80 0
47 6
Birmingham (New Street) .
90 0
75 0
75 0
60 0
40 6
Manchester (Victoria) . .
75 0
63 0
60 0
50 0
35 0
Liverpool (Lime Street) . .
75 0
63 0
59 0
• 48 0
33 0
Leeds (New Station) . .
80 0
67 0
70 0
58 0
40 0
Carlisle
94 0
75 0
85 0
67 0
46 0
Passengers by the mail steamers find the railway carriages ready to
convey them to Westland Row, Dublin, alongside the steamer on
landing; from Westland Row, a car or cab (the cost of which is
not included in the fare) must be taken to Kingsbridge station,
from which the trains to Killarney start. Tourists who book vici
North Wall are landed at the terminus of the North Wall Extension
line, which, running round Dublin, connects the Amiens Street,
Broadstone, and Kingsbridge stations with the boats ; the fare is
included in the ticket.
The Great Western Company issue tourist tickets to
Killarney, via Kingstown and via North Wall, from all their
principal stations, which permit the holders to join the Irish
trains of the North Western Company at Chester. They also
issue similar tickets to Killarney, via Waterford, passengers
travelling by express boats between New Milford and Water-
ford, in connection with fast trains from Paddington and all
parts of their system, thus affording tourists an alternative
route. Particulars of these trips may be found in their
Tourist Programme, p. 21. The Midland Railway Company
book passengers from the chief towns on their line to Dublin,
via Barrow and Belfast, and via Liverpool ; and issue tickets,
which permit passengers to travel via Chester and Holy¬
head. Every necessary information as to fares, &c., may be
found on pp. 26 and 27 of their Tourist Programmes ; but
the figures quoted above will serve as examples of the reason¬
able terms at which the railway companies convey tourists to
Killarney and back.
There are two routes from Dublin to Killarney—the direct
one, via the Great Southern and Western Railway, and an
alternative and somewhat roundabout journey by the Midland
Great Western Railway through Limerick, Newcastle, and
Tralee, which we notice at length in our " Guide to Limerick
and the Coast of Clare."
In the following pages, supposing our friends to have
Irish Jaunting Cars.
7
arrived in Dublin and made their way to the Kingsbridge
station, we first notice the chief features of the railway run
to Killarney, and accompany them on a series of excursions,
extending over six days, through the lakes and to other
places in the neighbourhood; and then describe the Prince
of Wales' route from Killarney to Cork, concluding with a
number of excursions through the interesting district in the
neighbourhood of that city.
Many of these excursions are made in the Irish jaunting
cars, of which we hear so much. They are of three kinds—
outside, inside, and covered cars. The former are the most
usual—and in ordinarily fine weather by far the preferable—
kind of conveyance. As will be seen from our engraving on
p. 5, they consist of two seats arranged back to back, with a
space for luggage, known as the " well," between them ; and it
INSIDE CAR.
is astonishing what an amount of impedimenta a clever driver
will pack into it. " Sure," said one of our drivers, who wore
a blue ribbon in his button hole ; " sure, an' ye needn't be
thirsty while ye sit on my car " (pronounced, kiar), " for isn't
there a well behind yer honour's back and a spring just
beneath yer?" Outside cars are generally made to seat two
on each side—an arrangement which Pat will tell you is
" moity convanient, for if ye have a lady wid ye, she is all
to yerself to spake to and to fall in love wid, and for that
raison the ladies always prefer them." Sometimes the seats
are only made to accommodate one traveller, but they are
rarely to be met with ; and sometimes the cars have four
wheels are made more than double the usual length, and
drawn by four horses. These are the celebrated " long cars,"
8
Irish Jaunting Cars.
which traverse many a beautiful district of country, not at
present invaded by the " iron steed."
The inside car differs from the outside, inasmuch as the
seats are turned inwards—indeed, it more resembles a short¬
ened waggonette than anything else ; and the covered car
is constructed much in the same way, but is surmounted by a
kind of oilskin tent, thoroughly impervious to the heaviest
rain. It is, however, close and dark, the only ventilation
being that which is obtained through the crevices of the
covering, and the only light that which streams in through
two small windows in front and one behind, an arrangement
which has given it in some parts of Ireland the nick-name
of a "peep-show." Good jaunting cars are very convenient
and comfortable conveyances, their excellent springs and light
build causing them to bowl along the roads and streets with
a celerity and ease far in advance of that of the ordinary cab.
And now having said thus much about the district and the
mode of getting about it, let us commence our pleasant tour
by a direct journey from Dublin to Killarney.
COVERED CAR.
NORTH WALL RAILWAY STATION.
DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY,
BY THE GREAT SOUTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY.
EAVING the Kingsbridge station, we skirt the
famous Phoenix Park, obtaining a good view of the
Wellington obelisk ; and pass in succession the
stations at Clondalkin, where may be seen one of
the most perfect of the many round towers in Ireland; Lncan,
noted for its strawberry beds ; and—
Hazlehatch. The latter affords access to the town of
Celbridge, near which is the abbey of the same name, a
favourite resort of Dean Swift, and the home of Esther
Vanhomrigh, the original of the Vanessa, in his poem of
" Cadenus and Vanessa." A bower of laurels, in the grounds
of the abbey, is pointed out as marking the spot where
several of their interviews took place.
Our onward journey is through a pretty country. The
next station, Straffan, obtains its name from a small village,
near which is one of Lord Cloncurry's seats, Lyons Castle,
standing in a pleasant park at the foot of Lyons Hill. At Sal-
lins, eighteen miles from Dublin, we cross the Grand Canal,
which connects the Lififey and the Shannon and so forms a
waterway from the east to the west of Ireland. Leaving this
Station, we see the Hill of Allen rising to a height three
io The Curragh of Kildare—Kildare.
hundred feet out of the Bog of Allen, and believed to have
been the scene of one of Ossian's poems ; it is said to have
been the residence of the famous giant, Finn MacCouhal, of
whose achievements such wonderful stories are narrated.
New Bridge, which we next pass, at a distance of nearly
twenty-six miles from Dublin, has latterly obtained considera¬
ble importance on account of its proximity to the camp at—
The Curragh of Kildare,
a common six miles long and two broad, belonging to the
Crown. A permanent camp of instruction was formed here
in 1853 ; it contains accommodation for ten thousand men.
The Prince of Wales visited the camp in 1861, and spent
some time there, in order to acquire that thorough knowledge
of military discipline so essential to the heir-apparent to the
throne. More recently the neighbourhood has been honoured
by the presence of the Empress of Austria, who came to
enjoy the unrivalled fox-hunting of the district.
The Curragh, too, is the Epsom of the Emerald Isle ;
it is four times a year the scene of races which occupy the
highest place in the estimation of Irish sportsmen. George
IV. visited them in 1821 ; and was so much pleased with
his reception that he presented a whip, value a hundred
guineas, to the stewards, to be run for annually. The grand
stand, which has a good hotel attached to it, was erected by
the railway company, in return for the slice of land they took
for the formation of their line
But not only is the common interesting for its associations
of to-day ; it has figured prominently in the history of the
past, and has been the scene of many a desperate struggle.
Lord Montemarisco fell here during the insurrection, headed
by the Earl of Pembroke in 1234. The Irish, led by the
Prior of Connell, were defeated here by the English in 1406.
Again, in 1789, the Irish volunteers assembled here; and
the United Irishmen also encamped here in 1804. Some
mounds, still visible, are supposed to be the graves of fallen
warriors. The Curragh closely adjoins the city of—
Kildare
[Hotel : Railway],
an important railway junction, the Kilkenny branch leaving
the main line at this spot. Kildare is one of the oldest towns
in this part of the kingdom ; and though it possesses but little
trade and is not a prosperous place, the numerous remains
-of religious edifices give it a considerable interest. It has
Monastereven—Portarlington. n
a population of 1,174 ; but is on the whole but a poor place,
anything but the smiling place imagination would have
pictured as the home of "Sweet Norah," whom the song
says was its pride. The town is half concealed from the rail¬
way by a ridge, on the summit of which rises a round tower,
132 feet high. This tower is in a very perfect state, and forms
one of the most conspicuous objects in the neighbourhood.
The name of the place is a corruption of the words, chi'lie
darruigh or cill dara, " the church of the oak," an allusion to
the numbers of oak trees surrounding the monastery founded
here by St. Bridget in the fifth century, portions of which may
yet be traced. The Cathedral, now used as the Protestant
church, is of very old foundation ; and, after lying for years in
a state of partial ruin, has recently been thoroughly restored,
at a cost of about ,£6,000. It contains the burial place of
the Dukes of Leinster, who derive their second title (that of
Marquis of Kildare) from the town. From its commence¬
ment in the fifth to the close of the eighteenth century,
Kildare was constantly " getting into trouble." At first, it
was ravaged by the Danes and by the kings of Leinster; it
was next taken by the English, who built a strong castle, the
remains of which are still to be seen, and held a parliament
here in 1339 ; and later on it was repeatedly laid low by the
discontented Irish of the neighbourhood. Near the next
station, that at—
Monastereven
[Hotel: Drogheda Arms],
is an iron viaduct, five hundred feet long, which crosses the
Grand Canal and the river Barrow, on which the town is
situated. Hence a good view can be obtained of Moore
Abbey, the seat of the Marquis of Drogheda, to whom the
town of Monastereven belongs. The mansion stands on the
site of an old priory, and the demesne surrounding it is finely
cultivated. The fine square tower of the old Parish Church
is a very unusual feature in an Irish place of worship, most
of the churches in the country being surmounted by steeples.
We next stop at—
Portarlington
[Hotel : Portarlington Arms],
formerly called Coltodry, the place where the late Duke of
Wellington, and his brother, the Marquis of Wellesley, were
educated. It is situated on the. Barrow; which divides the
town into two unequal portions—that on the one bank of the
.river being in County Kildare, and that on the ether in
12
M ountmellick—Maryborough.
Queen's County. Charles II. gave this town to Lord
Arlington, who erected a small port on the Barrow; hence
its modern name. William III. afterwards presented it to
General Rouvigny, when it became the home of numerous
French and Flemish Protestants. The Dawson family, of
Emo Park, take their title of Marquis from it. The ruins of
Lea Castle, about a mile to the east of the town, and Emo
Park, the seat of Lord Portarlington, are the principal objects
of interest in the neighbourhood. Spire Hill, not far off, is
crowned by an obelisk, built by Viscount Carlow during a
time of famine to give employment to his poorer neighbours.
A branch line runs off to the west, chiefly through the
famous Bog of Allen, to Tullamore and Athlone. where it
connects with the Midland Great Western Railway. West
of Portarlington, is—
Mountmellick
[Hotel : Delanys Railway],
a busy town, seven miles and a half distant. It is said to
have obtained its name, variously interpreted as " the boggy
land of the marsh " and " the green island," for its position
on a peninsula, nearly surrounded by the river Owenas or
Ovas, a tributary of the Barrow; and it owes its thriving
trade to the presence of a numerous and enterprising colony
of the Society of Friends in it.
Leaving Portarlington by the main line, a run of about
nine miles along a valley bounded by the Rocky Hills and
the Slieve Bloom range of mountains, brings us to—
Maryborough
[Hotels : Gaze's and Mather s\
the assize town of Queen's County. Founded during the
reign of Mary (of Smithfield memory), and named in honour
of her, it is still prosperous and has a modern look ; in 1881
its population was returned at 2,872. It stands on a small
tributary of the Barrow, and is a very pleasant town. Its
chief attractions to tourists are a bastion of the old Castle, a
strong fortress, erected, when the town was built, to overawe
the natives of the then newly conquered neighbourhood; and
the ruins of Dunamase Castle, an almost impregnable fortress
in its day—at one time in the possession of Strongbow. It
crowned the summit of the singularly shaped and stupendous
rock of Dun Mall or Dunamase. The top can only be
reached from the eastern side; and this was formerly
defended by the barbican of the castle. From some points
Temfclemore.
13
of view, the hill reminds one strongly of Arthur's Seat, at
Edinburgh ; and the position seems so impregnable that we
are surprised to learn that for centuries it was perpetually
changing hands, being captured to-day by the English and
retaken to-morrow by the Irish, till at last, in 1650, it was
taken and destroyed by two colonels of Cromwell's army.
A legend of its capture in very early times by " the giants "
is preserved. We are told that, finding they could not get
into the castle in any other way, they leaped into it from a
distant hill, and put the garrison to the sword ; and as the
impress of their feet in the solid rock remains to this day,
we are, of course, obliged to believe the story.
At Maryborough the branch to Kilkenny and Waterford
leaves the main line, the next station on which is that which
serves the town of Mountrath and the pretty and romantic
village of Castletown, a mile and a half distant from it. The
latter is prettily located on the bank of the Nore; and
obtained its name from a castle built in the sixteenth century
by an ancestor of Lord Castletown ; its ruins are worth a
visit. Mountrath, a corruption of Moynrath, " the fort in the
bog," was founded early in the seventeenth century by Sir
Charles Coote, an ancestor of the present premier baronet
of Ireland, whose residence Ballyfinn House contains several
articles of furniture executed for George IV., when Prince
of Wales, and the pavement of the great hall of which was
purchased in Rome.
As we continue on our journey, we pass the ruins of several
old castles, the presence of which attests the disturbed state
of the country in former days. Ballybrofthy station affords
access to the thriving town of Rathdowney, and is the
junction of the Parsonstown and Nenagh branches, both
of which open up the beautiful scenery of the Shannon.
Between Ballybrophy and—
Templemore
[Hotels : Ormonde and Queen's Arms],
we enter the county of Tipperary and the province of
Munster. PI ere we find traces of the old Knights Templars,
who founded the town, and have left an interesting relic of
one of their preceptories, now forming the entrance to the
grounds of the Abbey, the residence of the Carden family.
The house stands in a beautiful park, in which is one of the
gables of the old monastic church, the principal archaeological
features of which are an interesting Norman doorway and a
good two-light Gothic window. The view from the carriage
ROCK AND RUINS OF CASHEL.
The Rock of Cashel.
15
The Rock of Cashel,
six miles distant from the station. Though an episcopal
city and formerly the seat of the kings of Munster, Cashel is
now in a decayed condition, and would not attract any atten¬
tion, were it not for the interesting assemblage of ruins on the
rock. The place contains several public buildings, a liberally
endowed charter school, and a valuable library, comprising
sixteen thousand volumes and several curious manuscripts.
The ruins of the old Cathedral on the summit of the rock
are among the finest in Ireland ; it is said to have been one
of the resting places of the coronation stone in Westminster
Abbey, about which so many wonderful stories are told. The
edifice was burnt in 1495 by the Earl of Kildare, who had a
quarrel with the archbishop, and whose defence of his con¬
duct before the king—that he would not have burnt the
cathedral, if he had known that the archbishop was not inside
—gained for him the appointment of lord-deputy of Ireland.
ROCK OF CASHEL.
Besides the cathedral, there are on the rock Cor mads Chapel,
built in 1127 ; the church and hall of audience of the bishop-
king of Desmond, Cormac MacCarthy ; and the palace of
the old kings of Munster, with its famous Round Tower, up¬
wards of ninety feet high, one of the chief, and probably the
oldest, of the buildings on the rock. The Grey or Hore
Abbey, founded by David MacCawell, Archbishop of Cashel
in 1278, is a picturesque ruin about a quarter of a mile from—
but in full view of—the rock.
The scene from the battlements of the cathedral is exten-
6
The Rock of Cashel.
sive and grand, and, apart from the interest attaching to the
old edifices by which it is surrounded, would repay the
fatigue of a climb. Descending, a visit should be paid to
the ruins of the old Dominican Priory, the east window of
which overhangs a miserable lane, called Friars Street. The
carving and interlacing of this window are particularly fine,
but little else remains to tell of the former beauty of the
place.
Though a city of great antiquity, nothing is known of the
date of the foundation of Cashel and very little of its early
history. This much, however, is certain : here, in 1172, was
held the synod which confirmed the kingdom of Ireland to
Henry II. and his successors, a decision which was subse¬
quently ratified by the Pope, Alexander III. The city, as
years rolled on, played a more or less prominent part in all
the disturbances of the kingdom ; and it is to the repeated
sieges it underwent that its present decayed condition may,
to no small a degree, be traced.
We next pass the station at Dundrum, the seat of Lord
Hawarden (known as Newtown-Dundrum to distinguish it
from the two other places of the same name in Ireland—the
one near Dublin and the other in County Down), and reach
Limerick Junction, where the direct railway from Waterford
to Limerick crosses the Great Southern and Western line.
As we leave the station we have a good view of the Galtee
mountains, which embrace some of the most lofty in the
south of Ireland, the long hill of Slieve-na-Muck extending
east and west in front of us. To the right of the station is
Ballykisteen House.
Emly, at which place is the next station, though now only
a village with a population (1881) of 348, was of old a very
important place. It is mentioned by Ptolemy as Imlagh;
and was in later times a city and the seat of a diocese, and
contained a monastery built by St. Ailbe, or Alibeus, the
abbots of which exercised great influence in the national
councils for centuries. Here, too, were renowned ecclesiastic
schools. The extensive roofs and graceful spire of the new
Cathedral may be seen overtopping the houses of the
village.
Knocklong station is at the foot of a hill of the same name
("the hill of the encampment"), on which are the remains of
a castle erected by the Hurleys. Near the station is a small
isolated police barrack, which was the scene of a smart
engagement during the Fenian outbreak.
Killmallock—Buttevant. 17
Kilmallock
[Hotel : O' Sullivan's]
(in the old times known as Cill Mocheallog, " the church
of St. Molach," of which its present name is a more eupho¬
nious corruption) was once a place of considerable import¬
ance. Edward III. granted a charter to the town, which
was then surrounded by walls with four gates ; but after
going through many vicissitudes of fortune, the fortifications
were destroyed by Cromwell, and the town has now become
comparatively insignificant, with only a few shops and scarcely
any trade. The place was the scene of many historical
events connected with the Desmonds, whose ancient residence
was here. Kilmallock is noted for its numerous ruins—those
of old castles, splendid churches, and spacious mansions,
which attest its former magnificence, and have given it the
name of the Balbec of Ireland ; but among them all, none
are more interesting than those of the Dominican Priory, in
its time one of the finest in Munster, said to have been built
in the thirteenth century by Gilbert, lord of Offaley. The
Church of St. Peter and St. Patilis remarkable from the fact
that its tower is formed of one of the old Irish round towers.
Lough Gurr, ten miles to the north, is worth visiting.
It was the centre of the country of the Desmonds, the last of
whom is believed to hold his court below its waters ; and was
formerly guarded by two strong castles, the remains of one
of which are yet to be seen. There is also another much
older of Cyclopean masonry on an island in its centre. But
it is chiefly interesting on account of its Druidical remains
and for the curious formation of the hill of Carrig-na-Nahin
(" the mass rock ") in its neighbourhood.
At Charleville, the direct line from Cork to Limerick leaves
the main line of the system and opens out a capital means
of communication between the two cities. The town is
pleasantly situated on a small stream, known as the G'lynn. It
was formerly known "by the heathenish name of Rathgogan,"
and received its present name from the first Earl of Orrery in
1621, as a compliment to the reigning monarch. Leaving
the junction, the main line turns due south, and next passes—
Buttevant,
a corruption of the war cry of the Barrys (who flourished here¬
about), Boutez-en-avant, "push forward." In ancient times
it was a noted ecclesiastical centre, as the numerous ruins
of religious edifices testify, and was known then as Bothon.
Now it is a garrison town of some importance, having (1881)
Killamey 2
i8
Mallow.
a population of 1,409. But its chief interest lies in its con¬
nection with Spenser who resided in the neighbourhood, and
who addresses the river Awbeg as—
" Mulla, the daughter of old Mole * so bright,
The nymph which of that watercourse has charge,
That, springing out of Mole doth run downright
To Buttevant, where spreading forth at large
It giveth name unto that ancient city
Which Kil-ne-mullah ycleeped is of old,
Whose cragged ruines breed great ruth and pity
To travellers, which it from afar behold."
The railway and river part company at Buttevant. The
latter flows westward into the country so intimately associated
with Spenser, and in which he resided on an estate conferred
on him by Elizabeth. He has left us a vivid description of
the district in his " Colin Clout's come home again." The
ruins of Kilcolman Castle, where the poet acted as secretary
to Lord Grey of Wilton, lord deputy of Ireland, are a little
to the north of Doneraile, a small but pretty town on the
Awbeg, some four or five miles from Buttevant. It was in
Kilcolman Castle that the first three books of the "Faerie
Queen " were written. Eventually, the castle was attacked
and burnt by the insurgents, on the outbreak of the Tyrone
rebellion of 1588, and though Spenser and his wife escaped,
their infant daughter perished in the flames. All that is now
left of it is a single ivy-covered tower, in which the stone
staircase, which Raleigh and Spenser frequently trod together,
and the deeply-recessed window, where the poet often sat with
his wife Elizabeth, are still pointed out. Leaving Buttevant
and continuing our southward course, we soon reach—
Mallow
[Hotels : Royal, Hibernian, Queen's Arms, Victoria, &c.],
an important railway junction whence trains run north (to
Limerick and Dublin), south (to Cork and Queenstown), east
(to Fermoy and Lismore),and west (to Killarneyand Tralee).
Mallow is a prettily built town on the banks of the Black-
water. Known as the Bath of Ireland, it is a popular resort of
invalids and others, who come thither to drink the waters
of its spa and admire the scenery in which it stands ; while
the excellent fishing in the river and the convenience of
rapid railway transit to fresh " hunting grounds" render it
a favourite centre for anglers. The main street of the town
is part of the old coach road from Cork to Limerick. At
* Mole is the name of " that mountain hoar," so charmingly sung in another of
Spenser's poems.
Mallow.
19
its southern end, a handsome bridge connects the suburb of
Ballydaheen with the rest of the town. Near this bridge are
the ruins of old Mallow Castle, built to protect the passage
of the river ; and both bridge and castle form pleasing features
in the view of the town, which is rendered still more attrac¬
tive by the noble range of mountains in the background.
Of old, Mallow (known as Malla, Moyalla, and Moyallow)
was an important military centre. It originally belonged to
the Earls of Desmond; but on the rebellion and subsequent
attainder of the great earl, in the reign of Elizabeth, the
maiden queen bestowed it on Sir Thomas Norris, lord
president of Munster, to whose descendant it still belongs.
As it commanded one of the most important ferries over the
Blackwater, Elizabeth ordered the erection of the castle
already referred to ; and about thirty years later, James I.
built a second castle, known as Castle Garr ("the short
castle"), at the northern end of the town, on which he
bestowed a charter of incorporation, now fallen into desue¬
tude. These two castles figured prominently during the
troubles of 1642 and the following years, both being captured
by the insurgents, and Castle Garr eventually demolished!
The mineral waters of Mallow are very similar to those of
Clifton, near Bristol, but softer. The principal spring rises
from the base of a limestone hill, on the north-eastern side
of the town ; and here a Spa House, in the old English style
of rural architecture, was erected in 1828, by C. D. O.
Jephson, Esq., M.P. It contains a pump room, consultation
room, reading room, and baths. Lady's Well, though warm
and of the same quality, is not so extensively used. The
bathing season usually commences in May. Races usually
take place in November, on a course about two miles to the
east of the town ; and the Duhallow Hunt hold their meetings
here. This club possesses a superior pack of foxhounds,
which afford capital sport during the winter. The Mallow
Club, composed of the gentry of the town and neighbourhood,
have a club-house, containing billiard, card, supper, and
reading rooms, with a library, open to strangers ; and there
are subscription news rooms and everything else calculated to
promote the enjoyment of the inhabitants and visitors. Excel¬
lent roads, too, traverse the neighbourhood, and afford a choice
of beautiful walks and drives. One, especially, known as the
Circular Drive, is exceedingly popular. Shaded on both
sides by lofty trees, it runs along the southern bank of the
Blackwater, crosses the river by the Clydagh bridge, and so
brings us back to Mallow.
20
Mallow.
The Parish Church, of Later English architecture, with a
tower and fine spire, the Roman Catholic Chapel, a Presby¬
terian Church, and chapels belonging to the Congregational
and Methodist bodies are the places of worship in the town ;
and with the Convent for the Sisters of Mercy, the various
schools, Workhouse, Courthouse, Bridewell, &c., are the chief
public buildings, in addition to those already noticed. The
remains of an old church are to be seen near the present
parish church.
At Mallow, we leave the main line of the railway, and make
our way westward along the Killarney branch. Following
the upward course of the Blackwater, we pass the station of
Lombardstown, near Mount Hillary (1,287 feet), one of the
highest peaks of the Bochra range. A ride of another six
miles, conducts us to—
Kanturk ("the hill of the wild boar")—or rather to the
station for that thriving little market town, for it is about three
miles north of the railway. The houses we see on the south,
near the spot where the Glen pours its tiny contribution into
the Blackwater forms the village of Banteer. Kanturk stands
at the confluence of the Allua and Dallua; it is somewhat
irregularly built and contains two hotels (the Eg7nont Arms
and Vaugharis), where the tourist may find refreshment and
rest. There are the remains of a castle begun by one of the
MacCarthys, but never finished (as "good Queen Bess" saw
fit to prohibit its completion), and two or three places worth
visiting, in the neighbourhood ; while the battle of Knockna-
clashy was fought in 1652 about half a mile from the station.
Millstreet, about a mile south of the station of that name,
has, owing to the decline of the linen manufacture of the
neighbourhood, lost much of its former prosperity. Just be¬
fore reaching the station we pass Drisbane Castle, a modern
residence, incorporating the ivy-covered tower of an old
fortress, erected by Dermot MacCarthy in 1436. And now
passing the stations at Rathmore and Headford, and admiring
the noble ranges of mountains which present themselves to
our view, we alight in due course at Killarney, a description
of which we reserve for another chapter. The train runs on
by Farranfore and Gortatlea (whence a short branch runs to
Castleisland), to Tralee.
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THE
Lakes of Killarney5
(Patronized by their I.M. the Emperor and Empress of Brazil, by
H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught,
and by other Distinguished Visitors,)
adjoins Lord Kenmare's demesne, and is situated within easy
distance of Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Grounds, the
Gap of Dunloe, and the principal points of interest.
This hotel, the largest in the Lake district, possesses un¬
usually good accommodation for Tourists and Families, including
spacious and well-furnished Ladies' Drawing Room, Writing,
Reception, Billiard, Smoking, Dining, and Private Sitting
Rooms.
The courts of the Killamey I,awn Tennis Club occupy a
portion of the extensive ornamental grounds around the hotel,
and arrangements have been made by which hotel visitors are
entitled to free use of them, subject to the rules of the club.
Well-appointed Boating and Posting Establishments, with
steady Boatmen, Carmen, Guides, &c., attached.
The Manager personally supervises the formation of Excursion
Parties, with a view to their comfort and economy.
\ LIBRARY. \ PIANOFORTES. \ LAWN-TENNIS. \ BILLIARDS. \
The charges are fixed and moderate.
A wagonette will run from 1st June to 30th September
between the hotel and Ross Castle. Fare, 6d. each way.
Hotel boats always in readiness on the arrival of passengers
at Ross Castle Quay.
Intending Visitors are requested to write or telegraph for the
accommodation they will require.
G. J. CAPSEY, Manager.
•5-^IIiW^Y fKITEk
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
VIEW FROM INNISFALLEN
KILLARNEY AND THE LAKES.
jj^tgrajlHEN, on arriving at the railway station, the tourist
!?WvM ^ears Suard ca^ out " Killarney," he probably
imagines that he has only to put his head out of
the window and look down on the celebrated lakes.
The word is suggestive of a bewitching vista of blue hills,
sparkling streams, and splashing waterfalls ; and perhaps we
are disappointed when we find that we are two miles away
from the nearest lake. However, as we leave the terminus,
we gradually regain our composure. We see the summits of
distant mountains high as the clouds, like banners of hope hung
out to greet us, and we behold a lustrous brightness in every
spear of grass, and a verdant sheen on every leaf we meet with.
Killarney is a dull town containing in 1881 6,651 in¬
habitants ; and consists of two rather good streets, from
which numerous wretched lanes and courts branch off.
There are few public buildings in the town, the trade of
which is chiefly dependent on the annual influx of visitors to
the lakes, its only industries being the manufacture of light
goods from the wood of the arbutus tree, which flourishes
luxuriantly in the neighbourhood, and of furniture and un¬
finished cotton reels. The Protestant Episcopal Church, of
Gothic architecture and, like most churches, cruciform, is a
handsome edifice, erected at a cost of about ,£5,000. The
O 1
Killarney ana me i^anes.
Roman Catholic Cathedral, designed by Pugin, is both inter¬
nally and externally a building of magnificent proportions.
It, too, is cruciform, with square central tower. The idea of
erecting a lofty spire was abandoned, it is said, in conse¬
quence of the foundations showing signs of insecurity. The
Palace of the bishop adjoins it. A Lunatic Asyhim, standing
on the high ground between the roads to Castleisland and
Tralee at the northern end of the town, commands an
uninterrupted view of the splendid scenery of the district.
The Post Office is conveniently situated in New Street. The
Fraticiscan Friary near the railway station is a commodious
and handsome building, with a substantial square tower, the
work of one of the inmates ; and there are commodious fine
Constabulary Barracks close by. There is, too, an educa¬
tional establishment of high repute at Park Place.
Hotels.
There are numerous good hotels in the neighbourhood of
the town. As we leave the station, we see the Railway
Hotel immediately in front of us. It is a large edifice, built
specially for the purpose by the railway company, and
stands in its own ornamental grounds, twenty acres in extent,
commanding uninterrupted views. The grounds contain the
lawn tennis courts of the Killarney club, to the free use of
which visitors at the hotel are entitled. The Royal Victoria
Hotel is most beautifully situated on the shore of the Lower
Lake, its grounds extending to the water's edge. It is
spoken of by Charles Knight as "the most charming of
inns," where " the kindest of hostesses accords us a welcome
that makes us at home in a moment." The Lake Hotel
stands at the head of a small inlet of Castlelough Bay, the
eastern portion of the Lower Lake ; it is within a few yards
of the water's edge, and stands in its own beautifully kept
grounds, of considerable extent. It is one of the most charming
retreats in the neighbourhood. The Muckross Hotel is close
to the entrance to the Muckross demesne, to which its
inmates have free access ; and the Lake View and O'Sulli-
van's command views, unsurpassed even in this district. The
Palace and Innisfallen are both in the town. Private lodg¬
ings, generally less expensive than the hotel charges, can
also be obtained in the town and neighbourhood. It is best
to arrange with the manager of the hotel for your guides,
cars, boats, &c., or to join the excursions which he plans ;
but as all tourists may not be able to do so, the following
information may prove of service
(^oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooofl
LLAKES OF KILLARNEY,!
«oooodoeoooo6oooooooooo«ooooooo^
By AJtrah Majesty's Special
Her Most Gracious JKpylK. Permission.
The Royal —
-^Victoria Hotel.
ON THE LOWER LAKE.
Patronized by
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught;
and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c.
tHIS HOTEL is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the water's
edge, within ten minutes' drive of the railway station, and a
short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe. It is lighted
with gas made on the premises, and is the largest hotel in the
district. A magnificent coffee-room, a public drawing-room for ladies and
families, billiard and smoking-rooms, and several suites of private apart¬
ments face the Lake.
& TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON.
vwwvw
CARS, CARRIAGES, BOATS, PONIES, AND GUIDES,
at Fixed Moderate Charges.
Drivers, Boatmen, and Guides are paid by the Proprietor, and are not
allowed to solicit gratuities.
The Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend the Trains.
POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE IN THE HOUSE.
BOARDING TERMS FROM OCTOBER TO JUNE
INCLUSIVE.
[See ever.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY,
•SHE ^OYAL
4 VICTORIA KOTEL,
ON THE SHORES OF THE LOWER LAKE.
patronized by
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales; H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught;
and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c.
Tejhct f, 2 ,
Killarney and the Lakes.
23
FISHING.
Fishing in the lakes is free to any visitor who chooses to provide him¬
self with a salmon license, which costs twenty shillings. The best fishing
season is in March, April, and May. The close season commences in
November, and ends in January. The boatmen generally take out a
license, which they have, or assume to have, the privilege of transferring
to the tourist who employs them and their boats.
GUIDES.
It is better, for many reasons, that the tourist should employ a guide
to show him over the mountain passes and through the woods. There
is no map with all their intricate paths marked upon it ; and even if the
tourist had such a means of direction, he might find it impossible to
avail himself of it, for the glens and hills wind and change with every
varying aspect, as we tread their narrow roads, and become quite a
labyrinth to the uninitiated. The guides, with scarce an exception, are
strong, honest, amusing fellows. They usually receive 51. per day.
PONIES AND CARS.
Ponies cost 6s. per day, including is. to the boy who drives them ;
and the charges for cars are :—One-horse car, for one or two passengers,
6d. per mile ; for three or four passengers, 3d. per mile. Two-horse
car, is. per mile. The following list of charges to the principal places
of interest from the station and the Railway Hotel will serve as a
specimen of what the tourists will pay for cars :—
Two-horse One-horse
car. car.
£ s. d. £ s. d.
To the Gap oFThrnloe^and Ross . . . . . 1 o 6 ... o n 6
To the Gap of Dunloe and Ross and West Demesne , 126 o 12 6
Round Ross Island 9 o ... o 4 6
To Police Station on New Line . . . . . o 17 o ... o 9 o
To Muckross Abbey 9 o ... o 4 6
Tore Waterfall, Muckross Abbey, Dinas, and from
Ross Castle 1 o 6 ... o n 6
Mangerton and back o 16 6 ... o 9 6
Muckross Abbey and Tore Waterfall . . . . o 12 6 ... o 7 6
Tore Waterfall o 10 o ... o 5 o
Muckross Abbey and demesne, through Dinas, and
home by Tore Waterfall o 16 6 ... o 9 o
Xord Kenmare's Demesne . . . . . . o 6 6 036
Cairntual . . . 120... on 6
The Deer Park 086...046
The Deer, Aghadoe, West Demesne, and Ross Island 1 o o ... o 10 6
Ross Castle . . . 050...029
Aghadoe Ruins o 8 o ... o 4 6
Muckross Abbey and demesne, Dinas, and Police
Station, New Line 1 2 o ... o it 6
Ross Island and West Demesne o 12 o ... o 6 6
Mangerton and Police Station 1 2 o ... o 11 6
Ross Island, West Demesne, and Deer Park . . o 16 o ... o 9 6
The Tunnel . . o 14 o ... o 8 o
BOA TS.
The charge for a two-oared boat is 107. 6d., including 77. to the men ;
for a four-oared, it is, 217., including 147. to the men.
24
Killarney and the Lakes.
DISTANCES.
The following table of the distances from Killarney town of the chief
places of interest will be of use to the tourist:—
Miles.
The Glen in Lord Kenmare's Deer
Park .
Ross Island (by land)
Muckross Abbey .
Tore Waterfall
O'Sullivan's Cascade
Aghadoe Ruins, through Ken
mare Demesne .
4
5K
Glena Bay .
The Devil's Punch Bowl
Eagles' Nest
Dinish Island
Gap of Dunloe
Mulgrave Police Barracks
Derrycunnihy Cascade
Carran Tual .
Miles
6
7
7 ,
6'A
9
io
8%
14
HEIGHTS OF MOUNTAINS, &>c.
According to the Ordnance Survey, the heights of the principal
mountains are:—
Feet.
Carran Tual .... 3,414
Mangerton . . . . 2,756
Purple Mountain . . . 2,739
Tomies .
Tore .
Eagles' Nest
The elevation of the loughs above the sea are
Devil's Punch Bowl .
Cum-Meen-Na-Copasta
Gouragh .
Callee
Black Lough .
Feet.
2,206
2,156
1,226
1,096
587
Cushvalley
Kittane
Coom-a-Dhuv
Upper Lake
Lower Lake
Feet.
2,413
1,764
1,103
Feet.
337
256
197
70
66
The Lakes.
The chief attraction of the district is the beautiful scenery
which surrounds the famous lakes—three in number, and
known as the Upper, two and a half miles long by half a
mile broad ; the Middle or Tore, two miles long and one
broad ; and the Lower, or more properly Lough Leane, five
miles long and two and a half broad. They are connected by
a tortuous stream, known as the Long Range, which winds in
and out of the scenery in the most pleasant manner ; and
they are fed by a number of mountain streams, their surplus
water being discharged by the river Laune, which flows
from the south-west corner of the Lower Lake to Castlemaine
Harbour on the coast of Kerry. The head of the Lower
Lake and the whole of the other two are surrounded by high
mountains and scenery of the most romantic nature; and
after exploring it as recommended in the following pages, we
are sure all our friends will agree with Thackeray, when he
pronounces them " too handsome."
If the tourist is pressed for time and does not dread
fatigue, he may, by " galloping over the lakes in one day,"
get a glimpse of their more prominent features. To do so,
he should proceed by Aghadoe; visit Dunloe Castle, and
THE MEETING OF THE WATKKi.
Killarney and ihe Lakes.
25
ascend Carran Tual; descend by the Black Valley; and
return by boat through the lakes : or he may proceed back
through the Gap of Dunloe, or by Lord Brandon's Cottage,
Derrycunnihy, Eagles' Nest, Tore, and Muckross. Another
"one day excursion" is by Aghadoe, Beaufort Bridge, through
the Pass of Dunloe, and back by water from the head of the
Upper Lake, visiting Muckross, Innisfallen, and Ross.
But though it is better to take a few tantalising glances at
the lakes than not go to Killarney at all, at least a week
should, if practicable, be spent there ; and those who are
able to stay in the place for that length of time will be able
to vary the excursions as the changeableness of the weather
may render desirable. For the convenience of such "happy
mortals " we append a programme of excursions, which will
enable them to visit everything worth seeing, within a radius
of some thirty or forty miles of the town. The first five
excursions exhaust the district of the lakes ; and the sixth
will afford those who are inclined to visit the wild and grand
scenery of the Kerry coast, an opportunity of gratifying
their desires :—
First Day.—Muckross Village ; Muckross Abbey and Demesne :
Dinish Island ; Meeting of the Waters ; Old Weir Bridge ; Eagles'
Nest; the White Deer; the Tunnel connecting Muckross and Ross
Demesnes ; Queen's Cottage ; Derrycunnihy Cascade ; Mulgrave Police
Station, and view from the point above it; return by Tore Waterfall,
and ascend the hill which overlooks it.
Second Day.—Ascend either Mangerton or Carran Tual: the latter
is the highest and most difficult.
Third Day.—Lower Lake; Ross Island and Castle; Innisfallen
Island and Abbey ; O'Sullivan's Waterfall; Bay of Glena.
Fourth Day.—Aghadoe and Gap of Dunloe ; Turnpike and Black
Valley ; Logan Stone ; Upper Lake ; Long Range ; Eagles' Nest;
Muckross or Middle Lake.
Fifth Day.—Glenflesk ; Labig Owen and Druidical remains at
Lissivigeen ; Kenmare Demesne ; Lord Kenmare's West Park and
Demesne ; Ross Island, and the Deer Park (now open to visitors free of
charge).
Sixth and Following Days.—Cahirciveen and Transatlantic
Telegraph Station at Valentia, and the coast of Kerry.
We shall in the following pages direct our friends as to
the best way of following our suggestions, and point out the
objects of greatest interest which they will meet with.
MUCKROSS ABBEY.
FIRST DAY.
take our seats on an outside jaunting car, and
jbvPWsf j°£ smoothly and merrily along. We can, it is
Ha is/®! true, only view the scenery at one side as we pro-
ceed, unless we turn round continually, but Pat
tells us 'tis all right—we shall see the other side of the road
as we return; and by-and-by we find that his assurance is
not "all blarney." In this way we reach—
Muckross
(or, to give it its original name, Cloghreen), two and a half
miles from Killarney. The hotels here afford excellent
" quarters," and the village is frequently selected by tourists
for their temporary residence, as it is contiguous to the gate
and avenue leading to Muckross Abbey and demesne, and
within walking distance of Brickeen Island and Tore Water¬
fall. It, however, possesses this drawback—it affords no
view of the lakes, except that obtained by climbing a neigh¬
bouring hill. A lakelet at the back of the hotels afforded
Killarney and the Lakes. 27
the Prince of Wales and his party some good fishing, when
his Royal Highness visited the place, but it is by no means
certain that it will be equally kind to more humble anglers ;
and the little church of Killaghie, on an eminence hard by,
enjoys the reputation of being the smallest in the kingdom.
We alight here, in order to visit all that is left of—
Muckross Abbey,
which occupies the site of the old-world " Church of Irrelagh,"
burned somewhere about 1192. The present ruins, however,
are old enough, in all conscience, the abbey, which was in¬
habited by Franciscan monks, having been founded in the
year 1440 by the MacCarthys, princes of Desmond. They
A TOMB AT MUCKROSS.
are of the church, a hundred feet long, and consist of choir,
nave, and transept; the breadth of the choir is about twenty-
five feet, and the transept is thirty-five feet in length. In the
centre, where the transept intersects, a strong square tower
rises. The transept is united to the nave by a high arch ; and
on the opposite side a narrow doorway leads to the cloisters,
which is the best preserved and most interesting part of the
building. It is a square of thirty-six feet, surrounded by an
arcade, containing twelve semicircular arches on the east
and south sides, and ten pointed ones on the west and north.
The arcade lights a corridor, which is about five feet in width.
All round, the moulding of those arches, as well as thepillars
28 Killarney and the Lakes.
which support them, are of grey marble. In the centre of
this square a magnificent but sadly solemn yew-tree spreads
its great branches, the dark foliage of which, and its venerable
associations, contribute to make this ruin one of the most
imposing and remarkable places in Killarney. Adjoining
the cloister were the apartments of the community, chiefly a
dormitory, a library or refectory, a kitchen, remarkable for
its large fireplace, and a cellar beneath. A beautiful door¬
way forms the entrance to the nave; and the great oriel
window of the choir is seen through the Gothic arch which
pierces the tower or belfry. The window is divided into four
lights, by mullions interlaced above. The gable is densely
shrouded with ivy, and the floor thickly strewn with graves,
the most noted of which, although one of the least ostenta¬
tious, is that of MacCarthy More. In the vault beneath also
rest the ashes of O'Donoghue ; and the visitor will read the
lines graven on the monument:—
" What more could Homer's most illustrious verse,
Or pompous Tully's stately prose rehearse,
Than that this monumental stone contains
In death's embrace MacCarthy More's remains ?
Hence, reader, learn the sad and certain fate
That waits on man—spares not the great;
And while this venerable marble calls
Thy patriot tear, perhaps, that trickling falls,
And bids thy thoughts to other days return,
And with the spark of Erin's glory burn,
While to her fame some grateful tributes flow ;
Oh ! ere you turn, one warmer drop bestow—
If Erin's chiefs deserve thy generous tear,
Heir of their worth, O'Donoghue, lies here."
This was also the place of sepulture of the O'Sullivans More,
once potent amongst the proudest chiefs in Kerry, whose
graves, and those of many other stalwart leaders, lie un¬
noticed amongst the rank vegetation that carpets Muckross.
The abbey is not without some stately modern monuments ;
yet their beauty appears out of place amidst such mouldering
desolation. The graves of the peasantry lie in many a grassy
heap on the south side of the abbey, and some of its cut
stones have been taken from its walls to mark them.
Though abbots and monks have for generations ceased to
occupy the stately ruin, it has within the memory of some
of the older inhabitants had its tenant. The guide will point
out the spot where, in the early years of the present century,
John Drake, as he chose to call himself, took up his abode,
his bed being built of coffin boards, taken from the neigh-
Killarney and the Lakes.
29
bouring cemetery. Here he lived for twenty years, leading
a life of mortification and solitude. He was said to have
been a foreigner of distinction, skilled in all European
languages and erudition. He never divulged the secret of
his penance, and disappeared no one knew where. Of
course, such a man was a puzzle to the best-informed people
around and- a marvel to the peasantry, who weave his name
and habits into their fairy legends and hobgoblin stories.
Muckross Demesne,
in which the abbey stands, is the property of the Herberts,
whose family seat is close to the ruins. The grounds occupy
a peninsula, about a mile and a half wide, and are laid
out in walks and gardens of romantic beauty. They are open
to tourists on payment of a fee of one shilling each; the sum
being devoted to the payment of the servants who conduct
parties over the demesne, &c. An excursion through the
grounds is a source of considerable pleasure. The Ladies'
Walk, along the shores of the lake, affords one of the
choicest rambles in Killarney ; and yet it is surpassed by
another, extending away by the borders of Muckross Lake
for about two miles. From this, we have sublime views of
Mangerton and Tore Mountains and the many exquisite
islands in the lake. The demesne is considered by many
to be the finest, in respect to natural scenery, of any in the
kingdom. Nowhere else is there such an assemblage of
magnificent features, noble mountains, glittering lakes, stately
trees, verdant shrubberies, lovely meadows, venerable ruins,
beauteous flowers, countless birds, and all over-arched by a
sky of glowing azure. And the visitor must not fail to ask
after the Royal Family, a group of young trees, one of which
was planted by the Queen on the occasion of her visit to
Killarney. Amidst such scenery, we might fancy ourselves
transported back to epic times and revelling in the beauty
and sweets and peace of Arcadia.
Ouittingthe demesne and returning to our car, we proceed
through the peninsula of Muckross ; on our way, our driver
will point out the remains of the old copper mines, near the
lakelet of Doolah. The road runs now over Brickeen Bridge
on to Brickeen Island., which is joined to Dinish Island by
another bridge. On Dinish Island, Mr. Herbert has built a
neat cottage for the accommodation of visitors, where they
can get anything cooked which they may have brought with
them, and where they will enjoy their refreshments exceed¬
ingly. It is the favourite resort of the townsfolk of Killarney,
Killarney. 3
30 Killarney and the Lakes.
every fine Sunday, when they may be seen enjoying their
national dances and music. Here we leave the car to follow
on foot a little path by the cottage, which brings us to a
spot where we can obtain a view of Old Weir Bridge and
the famous " Meeting of the Waters.'5
Mounting once more, we still keep Tore Lake on our left,
until we meet the main road leading to the Long Range and
the Upper Lake. Do not omit asking your driver to show
you the White Deer j though whether you ask him or not,
he is sure to call your attention to it of his own accord.
Seen from the car, it appears a perfect outline of a white
THE TUNNEL CONNECTING ROSS AND MUCKROSS DEMESNES.
deer, in a crouching position—of so accurate a figure that
you are led to believe it must have been cut in relief out of
the rock.
Further on, we come to—
The Tunnel,
an arch cut through an enormous rock, under which the road
passes. From the top one of the finest views of the Upper
Lake is obtained ; and its Alpine character looks most re¬
markable. The background to this picture is the rugged
Killamey and the Lakes. 31
summits of the Reeks, Carran Tual (" the inverted cycle"))
rising like a dome above the crowded panorama ; while be¬
fore us are the Black Valley and the entrance to the Gap of
Dunloe. We are opposite the Doogary River, and we see
its waters flashing down the furrows of the Purple Mountain.
Every quality of charming scenery meets the eye. There
are precipices crowned with pines ; naked rocks, rent, and
seamed, and broken, jut darkly into the waters ; there are
precipitous slopes strewn with detached masses of rock,
bald and barren, or covered with purple heather or fresh
sward. There are the islands clad with foliage of "the
purest of green," and the winding shores are lined with
evergreens, alternating with stately forest-trees.
About a mile further on, we cross the Galwey River, and
we are close to—
The Derrycunnihy Cascade.
To visit it, we turn on to a bye-path, and long before we see
the fall we hear its reverberations trembling through the glen.
The fall, surrounded by some of the choicest scenery in Kil-
larney, is exceedingly fine. It plunges down a deep moun¬
tain chasm amid rocks which tear the buffeting waters into
roaring sluices that fall shivering on to lower rocks. These
spurn them again, surging and hissing over the headlong
precipice, where it—
'' Mounts in spray to the skies, and thence again
Returns in an unceasing shower, which round,
With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain,
Is an eternal April to the ground,
Making it all one emerald."
Pat will not fail to show the visitor the footmarks in the
Rock of Derrycunnihy, which tend to corroborate Pat's
assertion that a chief of that name leaped across the fall.
Similar footmarks graven on rocks are frequently met with
by the tourist all over Ireland. Spenser considered they
were boundary marks, where, standing on the stone, the
chiefs were sworn to preserve all the ancient customs of the
country inviolable.
The picturesque Mtilgrave Police Barracks is about half a
mile west of the fall. Passing the police station, we next
ascend a point a little way above it to the right, which our
driver points out, in order to enjoy the splendid view it com¬
mands. This is the farthest point of our day's "jaunt";
and we return to Killarney by way of—
32 Killamey and the Lakes.
The Tore Cascade.
Bordering the road are some of the finest fk-trees in the
TORC CASCADE.
district, tall, stately trunks, whose branches spread out and
Killarney and the Lakes.
33
interlace. As we approach the fall, its sullen roar breaks on
the ear, increasing in intensity as we proceed from the main
road up the little path which leads to it. The fall is con¬
cealed by trees and evergreens until we are close upon it,
when through a vista in the leafy screen, it bursts on the eye
in all its glittering magnificence, plunging with terrific force
down a rocky stairs, about sixty feet in height. The first
bound is in a broad, unbroken sheet; then it divides and
leaps from rock to rock in wild, tumultuous grandeur, foam¬
ing and wreathing, boiling and surging, uniting and again
dividing, fair as an avalanche, brilliant as a cornucopia of
pearls, hissing amongst the smaller rocks, thundering into
the black chasms, rushing, freighted with fury and noise and
violence, away through a dark, narrow gorge to the lake. A
winding path leads to the top, from whence we look down
on this delirium of nature, this chaos of waters; and the
wave-worn, precipitous rocks we ascend are shadowed with
the foliage of the arbutus, studded with velvet moss and
sprayed with trembling ferns. Higher up the path, leading
to places from which a glorious panorama may be enjoyed,
the Middle and Lower Lakes are seen, with their guardian
mountains and their winding shores, fairy islands, resting
like swans upon the water, and woodlands and meadows
green and fresh as sunlight and nature and pastoral beauty
can make them. The Tore Waterfall is said to be the finest
in Killarney—perhaps in all Ireland ; but, like many things'
of beauty, it is capricious. Often the waters flow as a mere
glistening streamlet that trembles among the dark rocks,
or spreads out over them into silvery fans, flashing down the
precipices. But when Tore wreathes his head in clouds,
and wild thunderstorms assail, then the sublimity of Tore
Cascade is revealed.
Leaving the fall, we drive straight to our hotel, and so
complete first day's excursion.
SECOND DAY.
O excursion which he can make will give the tourist
so precise an idea of the topography of Killarney
as that which we recommend him to undertake on
the second day of his stay—•
The Ascent of Mangerton.
It is necessary to procure a guide. If the tourist is a
good judge of physiognomy, he need have no difficulty in
34
Killarney and the Lakes.
choosing, from the many who will offer their services, an
amusing companion to conduct his steps.
The distance to the top of Mangerton from the town of
Killarney is about seven statute miles. Soon after leaving
the town, we cross the Flesk River, which flows into the
Lower Lake at Castleton Bay. The road is bordered by high
walls, which prevent the view of the lakes until we reach
Muckross. Here the road branches to the east, and so con¬
tinues for nearly a mile, when it again turns southward. Now
the tourist commences the ascent along a bridle path which
leads to the Pttnch Bowlj at this lake it is usual and much
safer to leave the ponies, whilst the traveller ascends to the
top on foot. About a mile on, the tourist comes in sight of
Lough Kittane, a considerable lake, singularly lovely, with
three small islands on it. The mountain now becomes
bleak and rugged, but, as we proceed, more and more inte¬
resting ; the views, with every foot of elevation, lengthening
out and increasing in grandeur. On the left is the Horse's
Glen. We look down into it from a tremendous precipice,
and see, far below, the little lake, called O^Dotioghue's Ink-
bottle, in consequence of the intense shadows of the over¬
hanging cliffs. Farther on, and after some tough climbing,
we arrive at the singular lake which goes by the name of—
Devil's Punch Bowl.
It is a tarn almost a quarter of a mile long, deep down in a
dark gorge, and looking from the great overhanging steeps
almost as small and quite as black as ink. The water is
cold as ice, and as unrippled as if it really was frozen over.
There are no fish found in it, although they are plentiful in
the stream that flows out of it. The echo is fine, but rather
peculiar ; it seems to ring round and round, as it bounds and
rebounds from rock to rock. The guides sometimes play a
trick here; they pretend that no voice can be heard across
the lake. They get round on some projecting rock and ask
" his honour" to listen. They assume gestures and grimaces
as if they were halloaing at the top of their voices ; and the
visitor, if he does not suspect the delusion, doubtless con¬
siders he has witnessed a most extraordinary natural phe¬
nomena, and tries his own lungs at it. Of course, the guide
puts his hand to his ear to cup the sound, appears to listen
attentively for the smallest whisper, shakes his head du¬
biously, and assumes to the visitor that he has not heard
the slightest flutter of his frantic war-whoop.
Pat has many a story to tell about the " Bowl." If the
Killarney and the Lakes. 35
visitor thinks to nonplus him with a direct question as to
" how could the old gentleman drink his punch out of such
an awkward vessel ? " Pat may tell you that he went down
on his face and hands to it, as Pat himself did when he
" wetted his whistle at the well below, after tasting your
honour's donation." " But, Pat, why does he require so large
a bowl ?" " Well, maybe 'tis because he has a big mouth ;
but anyhow, your honour knows cold punch would be the
THE DEVIL'S TUNCH BOWL.
most agreeable to him, and I suppose he used to spread it
out here to cool for himself." The " Bowl" is said to be so
deep that no sounding-line has ever been got long enough to
reach its depths ; in fact, that it is in this respect like the
bottomless pit. Pat bluntly says it has no bottom. " If
that's so, Pat, why don't the water fall down ? " " Don't you
know, your honour, that the underneath side of the water is
all a solid lump of ice ? But sure, if that melted out itself—.
36
Killavney and the Lakes.
and I wonder it don't—the water couldn't stir, the steam
would keep it up."
Putting our hands into the lake to feel its extreme cold¬
ness, and picking up some stones which the guide tells us
are useful for sharpening pen-knives and whetting razors, we
commence on foot the climb to the top, occasionally using
our hands to assist where the path is steepest. Pure and
exhilarating the atmosphere floats around us. Our spirits
grow as light and as elastic. Occasionally we stop to rest;
still " excelsior " is the word.
The ordnance mark on the summit is in sight. The path
grows less difficult, for we tread on a peaty soil. We quicken
our pace, and gain the mound. We are two thousand seven
hundred and fifty-six feet above the sea, and what a glorious
panorama rewards our exertions ! Far as the eye can reach,
an extending picture dazzles, and gladdens, and fascinates.
Away to the east the Boggra Mountains and the Paps loom
cloud-like and softly blue ; far on the north the Shannon
gleams, and nearer rise the Slievmish Mountains ; on the
east we view the rocky ranges of Iveragh, Dingle Bay, and
the Kenmare River ; south we see the distant Caha Moun¬
tains that shadow Glengarriff and rise over Bantry Bay.
But nearer there are greater charms of scenery, for the three
lakes lie at our feet, and we overlook their fairy islands.
The town seems but a stone's-throw from us, and we can
trace the roads that converge to it for many a mile into the
country, to the north and east. Like silver threads, we see
the streams and rivers running amongst the brightly verdant
meadows, and we view the gem-like sheen of arbutus bowers
that gird the glancing lakes ; higher, we behold a darker
zone of tasselled pines. The Macgillicuddy Reeks stand out
in all their sumptuous magnificence, Cai-ran Tual, like a
monarch, proudly overtopping them all. Nearer still, the
Purple Mountain and the Tomies rear their peaks amongst
the quivering clouds ; and, nearer yet, the Drooping Moun¬
tain and Tore exalt their painted rocks. We see the streamlet
flashing down from the mountain's brow, bursting joyously
through the furrowed declivity till it hides in the deep woods;
and we still track its course by a line of fresher green, for it
flings its sweeping spray on arching cloisters as it speeds
along, chanting its psalm of life.
On our way down the mountain we turn aside to visit—
The Horse's Glen,
a chaotic pit surmounted by perpendicular rocks. Excepting
THE PURPLE MOUNTAIN
Killarney and the Lakes. 37
from one narrow entrance, it is quite inaccessible. It con¬
tains another of those cold black lakes ; and in one of the
overhanging precipices the guide will point out an eagle's
nest. The echo seems to possess more than usual harmony.
But we are still five miles from Muckross ; and dinner¬
time is drawing on apace. We therefore push on to regain
our ponies, mounted on which our descent becomes rapid.
Indeed, the little animals seem inclined to gallop down, so
exhilarating are home thoughts and home prospects ; but we
check their anxious steps into a rapid walk, as being more
safe. Our face is now towards the north, and all the beauties
of the lakes are mapped before us. The water appears so
near, we fancy we could bowl a stone into it. Our path
becomes better, and our pace mends ; and at last we are on
a good road, and our ponies rush into a joyful gallop.
E have in our plan given our friends the alternative
of an—
Ascent of Carran Tual;
and we will now describe that excursion, which,
though the view from its top is not grander than that from
the summit of Mangerton, is perhaps a greater favourite with
tourists. Carran Tual is six hundred feet higher than Man¬
gerton ; and there is something which flatters our vanity in
the thought of reaching the highest point of a country. It
is this which prompts men to ascend Mont Blanc ; and we
have all heard of the lady, who risked that perilous ascent
and attained the top to make the guides raise her up on
their shoulders, that she might say she had stood higher
than any other traveller there, and thus surpassed them all.
The Prince of Wales, during his visit to Killarney in 1858,
went up Carran Tual; and we will follow in the steps of
royalty and order our ponies to the foot of the mountain,
early enough, however, to allow them a good rest there, for
it is fifteen miles from Killarney. The road leads away by
the northern shore of the Lower Lake, bridges the river
Laune, east of Dunloe Castle, passes the entrance to the
Gap, and gradually winds amongst the mountains. We have
Carran continually in sight; and judging of distance by the
eye alone, we should never suppose it so far off. At the base
of the mountain, about five miles from the top, we arrive at
a cottage near a river, built with gracious thoughtfulness for
the accommodation of visitors, and here we find our ponies
38
Killarney and the Lakes.
awaiting us. All the guides of the place assert their ex¬
clusive right to " show the gentleman up," and to tell him
all the legends. It is better to hire one or two of these
wild, hardy, ragged fellows ; and, strange it is, though they
are in rags, they will not covet the coat they are entrusted to
carry, and, although pinched with hunger, they will not disturb
the most savoury smelling viands confided to their care.
We now commence the ascent, our shock-headed guides,
laden with our coats and knapsacks and armed with cudgels,
leading. The path is not difficult, though rugged in some
places, strewn with coarse stones, and laborious for our
ponies. Continuing for about three miles, we arrive at an
exceedingly lonely glen, where the mountain rises with great
steepness, and where we must dismount and prepare to
breast it. This is called the Hag's Glen, and here are two
gloomy lakelets where the hag bathes and where she washes
her clothes, for this place is said to be haunted by her. Our
guide will show one of her Teeth, and point out her Chair,
and her Crutch—all fantastic rocks. But as our guide grows
familiar, the path becomes steeper. Not all the versatility
of his wit can prevent our feeling that it is tough work ; but
after an hour and a half's scrambling, we reach the summit,
crowned by a little cairn, the first stone of which was placed
there by the prince, and having emulated him in his moun¬
tain climbing, we imitate him now, and add a stone to the
monument.
The view is extremely grand, and quite repays us for the
labour of the ascent. We are above all the neighbouring
mountains, and our gaze is uninterrupted. We see far into
the counties of Limerick, Clare, and Cork, and far out into
the Atlantic Ocean. On one side is the estuary of the
Kenmare river, on the other is the wide Bay of Dingle.
We trace the Shannon from the great cliffs at Loop Head
to Kilrush, to Tarbert, and to where its waters expand, and
reach towards Ennis, and even to Limerick. We make out
the Galtee Mountains that border Tipperary, at least sixty
miles to the eastward, and the mountains of Bandon to the
south. Mizen Head and Bantry Bay appear to the south¬
east, all within a radius of seventy or eighty miles. We can
command mountains, hills, valleys, rivers, woods, and seas,
islands, and inlets, until, in the distance, land and sky appear
to meet, gray and indistinct, and the horizon is only clear
where the sunbeams fall on the gleaming waves of the
Atlantic. We discern several lakes, the most conspicuous
of which is Lough Cara, near Killorglin. The Kijlarney
Killarney and the Lakes. 39
Lakes, excepting the eastern portion of the Lower Lake,
are concealed from our view by the intervening heights. On
several of the surrounding mountains, we see small tarns.
The other reeks run in parallel ridges, intersected by glens
and gorges of the most terrific wildness. Rugged crags hem
in valleys of the most inconceivable desolation, and bold
precipices rise over lakelets of chaotic blackness. High up
amidst this savage wildness the eagle builds her nest.
Those lofty and extensive mountains were long the secure
fastnesses of the powerful sept of the MacGillicuddies.
Castle Cor, near Churchtown, is the ruined residence of the
earlier branch of the clan, whose lineal descendant still bears
the title of " MacGillicuddy of the Reeks." At such an ele¬
vation, the atmosphere is considerably rarefied; and the
tourist may find some inconvenience. He will discover that
slight exertion tires him. Nor is it wise to remain long, as
the clouds often gather round the summits, enveloping the
traveller in thick cold fog, and rendering his movements
along the edge of precipices and over boggy moorland
extremely dangerous.
We have now a choice of two routes by which to return
to our hotel. If we have arranged for a boat to meet us at
the head of the Upper Lake, we can descend the southern
side of the reeks into the Black Valley, and so complete
a most delightful round, which may be accomplished satis¬
factorily during a long summer day.
But as we purpose sailing over the bosom of the lake on
a future day, we adopt the course, generally followed by
tourists, and descend the mountain by the path by which we
reached the summit. On our way, we pay a second visit to—
Loughs Gouragh and Callee,
respectively one thousand one hundred and twenty-six and
one thousand and ninety-six feet above the sea. Then we
follow the course of the brawling Gaddagh River, and on
our way examine the fantastic precipices, known as the
Large and the Small Hag's Teeth j and in this wilderness
of rock give our guide an opportunity of telling "his honour"
about the Hag herself, or the spirits, or the " Leprechauns,"
" that sartinly, beyond all manner of doubt," live in the insicle
of the rocks. Those latter personages are like their German
brethren of the Black Forest—extremely ugly, withered, little
old men, with large noses and deceitful cunning eyes, dressed
generally in a red coat and knee-breeches, and cocked hat,
with buckles in their shoes—in court-dress, in fact, all to the
40 Killamey and the Lakes.
sword. But their occupation is not courtly ; they are verita¬
ble "cobblers." However, no anomaly surprises the poetic
guides, and they tell that, if we chance to see one, and keep
our eyes fixed on him, he has no power to stir, and must give
us any amount of gold for the asking ; but if for a moment,
yielding to any ruse of his, we remove our gaze, in the twin¬
kling of an eye he is gone. And implicitly believing all that
our companion tells us, we register a solemn vow that, if we
can only catch our Leprechaun, we will wring enough gold
out of him to make our fortune and that of our amusing guide.
In this way, we reach the foot of the mountain, and having
rewarded our guides to an extent which calls forth their
fervent benedictions, we again seat ourselves on our car, and
desire our driver to take us "home" by Churchtown, in
order that we may visit the grave of the great chief whose
ancient territory we are in. We leave the castle of the
O'Sullivan More (Dunloe) on the right, and get on to the
Cahirciveen road at Beatifort Bridge. On the shore we see
Lake View, at one time the residence of James O'Connell,
brother of the great statesman. Then we pass the Roman
Catholic Chapel, near Lady Headley's mansion (Aghadoe
House). On our left are the Aghadoe Ruins, Saint Finian's
ancient shrine, and the Pulpit—perhaps the Bishop's palace.
We notice the entrance to the Victoria Hotel, and drive on
to the town, passing the Asylum, the Cathedral, and the
Convent. Occasionally through the trees we catch glimpses
of Lough Leane, beautiful and placid ; and we see the reeks—
"Lift to the clouds their craggy heads on high,
Crowned with tiaras fashioned in the sky.
In vesture clad of soft ethereal hue,
The Purple Mountains rise to view,
With Dunloe's Gap."
THIRD DAY.
0-DAY we intend to enjoy ourselves on the ample
bosom of—
The Lower Lake,
which is studded by some thirty islands of various form and
character, some of them luxuriant with dense masses of
foliage, and others barren rocks, scarcely large enough to
be called islets. One, formerly known as the Gun Rock,
has been, since the Prince of Wales's visit, called Prince's
ROSS CASTLE.
Killarney and the Lakes.
41
Island, to commemorate the event. O'Donoghuds Horse,
one of the most celebrated rocks, was blown down during a
storm, and lies, like the rider, deeply buried in the waves ;
however, his Table, his Prison, his Pulpit, and his Stable
yet survive. The chief of the islands are those of Ross,
Innisfallen, and Glena, and a visit to these and to O'Sullivan's
Cataract will fully occupy the day, which may, however, if
the appetite of the tourist for change of scene be not satisfied,
be lengthened by a delightful voyage among the lesser islands.
Though its surroundings are not so grand as those of the
mountain-girt Upper Lake, the majority of tourists prefer
the Lower Lake to the other two. The scenery is of a
more soft and sylvan type, and partakes largely of the
gentle tranquillity of rural life ; and as we urge our boat by
the eastern shore, we behold all the animation that sheep
and cattle give to a picture harmonized with a background
of craggy mountains.
The lake is five miles long by two and a half wide ; its
proper name is Lough Leane ("the lake of learning"),
probably derived from the fact that there were three religious
establishments on its shores. Leaving our hotel, we first visit-
Ross Island,
which is part of the Kenmare estate, and is laid out with
walks and carriage-drives in the same tasteful and picturesque
manner as the rest of the demesne. Shrubberies, flower¬
beds, lawns, and groves diversify the land; and, wherever
the view is most superb, seats or summer-houses are arranged
to accommodate the visitor. The island is beyond doubt
of artificial formation, a moat having been cut through a
morass in the isthmus (which connected the peninsula with
the land) at a remote date—in all probability as a protection
to the castle, the ruins of which form a prominent feature
in the island. Its area is about a hundred and fifty statute
acres, and it is about a mile in length. Its shore is worn
into every variety of creek, promontory, and bay, with
deeply indented fantastic and curious rocks ; and a walk
or a row along the margin of the waters is a most enjoyable
treat. Copper mines were worked on this island, from
1804 to 1808, during which four years ,£80,000 worth of ore
was obtained, the discovery of ancient stone hammers
proving that they were first opened at some very early date.
They are said to have been abandoned because of the
breaking in of the water. Traces of the mines are yet visible.
Leaving Killarney by carriage, a short drive along the
42
high road and across the bridge thrown over the moat,
conducts us to—
Ross Castle,
a noble ruin, clothed in the most picturesque manner with
ivy. It was the stronghold of the O'Donoghue, who
assumed kingly jurisdiction in these parts, an example
which possibly influenced the Desmond to be as good as his
neighbours. In 1645 the rebellious Irish were masters of
every fortress in Kerry, with the exception of Ballingarry ;
and the county was not finally reduced until 1652. Ross
Castle was then defended by Lord Muskerry ; and General
Ludlow brought a force of four thousand horse and foot
against it. The gi'eat strength of the place and the difficulty
of attacking it would probably have stoutly tested the en¬
durance of the Parliamentary troops, had not the garrison
been intimidated by some old prophecy, which, told that the
castle would be impregnable until surrounded by ships of
war. With characteristic energy, Ludlow caused some boats
to be dragged up from Castlemaine and launched on the
lake. Their appearance, filled with soldiers and munitions
for the siege, so frightened the superstitious defenders that
they at once surrendered. In Ludlow's account of the affair,
he tells us, " When we had received our boats, each of
which was capable of containing a hundred and twenty
men, I ordered one of them to be rowed about the water, in
order to find out the most convenient place for landing upon
the enemy, which they perceiving, thought fit, by a timely
submission, to prevent the danger that threatened them."
After the troubles that followed the struggle between James
II. and William III., a detachment of the successful army
subdued the country and restored order.
The keep of the castle is nearly perfect; it consists of a
massive square tower, with a spiral stone staircase ascending
to the top. Originally it was enclosed by an embattled curtain
wall, having round flanking towers at each side. It is one of
the most prominent ornaments to the lake, not less for its
association than from its intrinsic beauty as a ruin, having
been the palace of O'Donoghue ; and the guide will point
out a hundred places connected with his memory, and show
you the identical window where he leaped out, charger and
all, into the lake. Don't deny him the pleasure of telling you
all about the great hero.
The view from the battlements is so glorious that we forget
all the fatigues of our climbing and its monotonous turning
on the torturing screw-like stairs.
Killarney and the Lakes. 43
Ross Island is nearly in the centre of the lake, and
stretches almost half across it; and close to the castle is the
quay at which the tourist generally embarks, whether his
object be to explore the beauties of Innisfallen or to row
through the whole of the lakes. As the former is our wish
to-day, we make our way thither, and find our boat awaiting
us. But before we embark, Pat has a trick to play upon us ;
and though we are well aware of its nature, we assume a
look of seeming innocence and permit him to enjoy his joke.
There is a famous echo here, and our guide, having expa¬
tiated on its singularity, proceeds to " improve the occasion."
He has previously sent one of the boatmen to some conceal¬
ment near the fortress, and now sings out lustily, " How do
ye do, Paddy Blake?" and the visitor is startled by the
response, " Very well, I thank ye."
The effect of a cannon fired here is wonderful. The sound
is returned with a hundred thundering replications from the
rock and caverns on the opposite shore, and dies away in
growling reverberation from the woods of Glena. Pat always
speaks of the echo as if it were a lady. Perhaps the tourist
will ask him, " Pat, why do you apply the feminine gender
when telling me about the echo ?" Pat, who has never
heard of Lindley Murray, scratches his head for a thought,
and rejoins, "Feminine gander, your honour? sure I never
called the echo a gander; but bedad, she has some pluck in
her, anyhow—for like Saint Kevin's goose, she flies thirty
miles around the lake." " Pat, I simply wished to ask why
you address the echo as a woman ?" " Oh, I beg your
honour's pardon. I understand you now. Sure 'tis because
she always has the last word."
Having embarked at the quay, a short row lands on—
Innisfallen,
certainly the most charming of all the isles on Lough Leane.
If we could select a focus of beauty, where all is beautiful,
we might certainly esteem this lovely island worthy of our
homage, as " queen of the lakes." In addition to the graces
of flowers and shrubs and forest-trees, it has peculiar attrac¬
tions of hill and valley and meadow—uniting to make, in
miniature, undulating charms as potent to please as are the
opposite mountain slopes. The hollow glens and winding
shores, embellished with all the glory of their umbrageous
fulness, the resonant cascades and chiming rills are not
more delightful than the music of a thousand warblers heard
here, in scenes where peace abides; whilst the waters lie in
44
Killamey ana me Lakes.
glassy sleep, reflecting the overlooking mountains, and the
ethereal vault glows with that intense blue, which is another
phase in fair Killarney's luxurious allurements.
Some of the groves are almost impenetrable from their
profuse luxuriance ; and yet the arbutus, which is so general
on the other islands and on the mainland, is not to be found.
But one hardly misses it, for the ivy, the holly, various kinds
of laurel, and evergreen oaks abound. Indeed, the holly tree
attains extraordinary exuberance, and its bright corals and
those scarlet clusters of the mountain ash are fresh and
delicate as the arbutus berry. The great holly, which the
guide must find for the visitor, is thought to be the largest in
Europe. Another curiosity which will tempt the tourist to
explore the mazes of this leafy island is a tree, or rather a
combination of four trees, united so closely as to appear
growing from the same stem ; they are ash, holly, hawthorn,
and ivy. Under their embowering shadow the visitor may
rest, to hear all the wonderful stories [narrated by his guide,
and repeat Moore's well-known ode—
" Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well!
May calm and sunshine long be thine ;
How fair thou art, let others tell,
While but to feel how fair be mine."
The island lies about half a mile from the shore, between
Ross and Rabbit Islands ; it is next in size to the former,
and contains about twenty-one acres of excellent land. In
this small space groves of evergreens and forest-trees are
disposed with such exquisite taste that walks in many
directions lead through thickets of the densest foliage, by
trees of enormous girth, over lawns and dells and hills ;
and often the view opens through a vestibule of arching trees,
through which the mountains, especially if gilded with the
declining sunlight, loom with a vast dreamy indescribable
outline. It has been remarked that, when approaching the
island in a boat, it looks, because of the density of the
underwood, as if it were growing out of the lake. The shore
is on one side high and rocky, and indented with small
creeks, bays, and harbours of the most romantic character.
The monks of old are credited with an acute eye in dis¬
covering the pleasant places of earth ; so that one is not at
all surprised to meet with traces of their presence here. The
remains of—
Innisfallen Abbey,
scattered all over the island, show that it was at one time
VIEW FROM INNISFALLEN.
Killarney and the Lakes. 45
very extensive. It was built in the year 600 by St. Finian
Lobhar (or "the leper"), and inhabited by the regular canons
of the order of St. Augustine, who busied themselves in the
compilation of the celebrated " Annals of Innisfallen," which,
with those of Ulster Tyernach, form the real history of
Ireland after the introduction of Christianity. The original
manuscript is in the Bodleian library ; it is written on parch¬
ment and contains fifty-seven quarto leaves. Several copies
have been made of it. There is one in Dublin, in the library
of Trinity College, where also many other valuable Irish
manuscripts are deposited.
Though fragments of the walls of the abbey are scattered
over the island, but little of it remains to give any idea of
its architecture. Probably the monks, relying for defence on
the surrounding waters of the lake, neglected to build with
that fortress-like solidity which appears to have been their
rule in most other places ; but an extract from their annals
shows that even in the old days, when, in spite of the con¬
fusion and bloodshed which obtained on every hand, the
Church was powerful enough to preserve her edifices from
violence, the monks were not always secure from invasion in
this wave-girt retreat. One daring chief, alike defiant of the
guardianship of holiness and of water, attacked and plundered
the monastery ; and even in the cemetery of the MacCarthys
slaughtered some of the clergy. This was in A.D. 1180, when
the abbey " being ever esteemed a paradise and a secure
sanctuary, the treasure and the most valuable effects of the
whole country were deposited there in the hands of the
clergy." The record of this sacrilege closes with a cautionary
account of what befel this trenchant son of the O'Donoghue :
" But God soon punished this act of impiety and sacrilege,
by bringing many of its authors to an untimely end."
Having walked around the island, and visited all the spots
worth seeing, not omitting the ruins of the oratory of older
date than the monastery, and having rested awhile under
one of the trees and listened to the wonderful stories of the
guides, we next row across the lake to visit—
O'Sullivan's Cascade.
If a bugler be among the crew, he will not fail to play some
of those tender native airs, which heard anywhere are pleasing;
but here, where the refrain is sung back again by many wild
and murmuring echoes from Glena and the Tomies Mountain,
the effect is perfectly enchanting. "Isle of beauty" or
" Haste and leave this sacred isle " are sweet and suggestive
Killarney. 4
46 Killarney and the Lakes.
melodies which will impress the ear and heart of the visitor;
and he will not soon forget the weird loveliness of the long,
o'sullivan's cascade.
low, full tones which ended each bar of the tune, an 1 which
Killarney and the Lakes. 47
swelled back to bim with all the brilliancy of a full chorus and
faded into the soft fluttering of the shore-kissing wavelet.
Bending to their oars, the boatmen grow loquacious, and
treat the tourist to many a queer tale of fairy love and many
a funny story of native wit.
Approaching the little quay, the mountains here are ever-
changing and sublime in appearance, their bases appearing
one mass of tangled verdure, brilliant with the fresh green
of the ever-conspicuous arbutus. Ravines and watercourses
furrow the slopes above the belt of forests, whilst higher still
the naked rocks alternate with yellow whins and purple
heather, the steep summit catches the passing cloud and
holds it till the drifting breeze unfurls it like the feathery
pennant on a warrior's spear.
On landing, we approach the cascade, through a rich
wood along a rugged path ; and long before we near it we
hear its resonance trembling through the leafy cloister, like
the deep tones of some great church organ. On by a singing
rivulet, which seems to hymn the tenor—far into the bosom
of a dark glen, the narrow path leading through ferns and
briars and wild-flowers of many a hue and variety, and over¬
shadowed with mossy rocks and foliage almost impenetrable
to light, we catch no glimpse of the waterfall until a sudden
bend in the path reveals it to us in all its giant force, its wild
sublimity, its flashing grandeur. Roaring with a deafening
din, plunging headlong from a dizzy height, leaping from
rock to rock with wildest bound, shaking the cliffs, hissing
and boiling in rock-worn abysses that look more dreadfully
dark from the white contorted waters that thunder into them,
it is fearfully beautiful, and may, too, be called a matchless
cataract, " charming the eye with dread." The entire height
of the falls is about seventy feet. It is divided into three
leaps. The first is over a ridge of rock, about twenty feet in
perpendicular height ; it then rushes with great velocity and
noise through a chasm between two huge rocks, and falls,
foaming over the next precipice, into a wave-hollowed basin,
from whence, plunging down the last descent, it cleaves its
tumultuous course to the placid lake.
The visitor will discover a romantic grotto beneath the
projecting rock which overhangs the lowest fall. From this
the view is finest. There are some stone benches placed
there for his accommodation ; and as he rests to enjoy the
glory of the scene, his thoughts may fitly revert to Him "who
hath divided a watercourse for the overflowing of water."
This cascade is considered the finest in Killarney, surpass-
48 Killarney and the Lakes.
ing in grandeur both Derrycunnihy and Tore. However, the
opinion may be incorrect, and may have been formed by those
who have probably seen this fall full and the Tore empty, as
is often the case in summer. The stream which forms the
cascade descends from the Tomies Mountain.
Before embarking, the tourist should find out a magnificent
oak tree, known as the Royal Oak. It is in the neighbour¬
hood of the fall; it measures fourteen feet in circumference,
and probably is not less than ninety feet in height. We
next direct our bark along the shores to—
Glena Bay.
The voyage lies along the foot of the Tomies Mountain,
which rises to a height of two thousand four hundred and
thirteen feet, and falls precipitately into the lake, passing
beautiful islands in whose rifted rocks the ash and the oak
have anchored their strong roots, and creeks and promontories
where the fresh arbutus displays its brilliant berries and the
wild rose trails his thorny stem. Passing Stag Island, Burnt
Island, Minister's Back, and Darbie's Garden, he enters the
thrice-lovely bay of Glena, "the glen of good fortune".
Landing, the visitor seeks out the charming pleasure-cottage
built there by Lady Kenmare ; and, if he has brought lunch
with him, he will find every accommodation which he may
require for having it cooked and served. A woman, who has
charge of the cottage, has also orders to show every attention
to visitors, who seldom fail to stimulate her zeal with a small
gratuity. Here, if the tourist has fished for and caught
salmon, or, with more prudence, brought it with him, he can
have it roasted on splints of arbutus wood; and, whatever
may be his own opinion, the guide and boatmen will assure
him it is the most delicious dish in all creation.
The grounds about this cottage are laid out with exquisite
taste, and walks, giving vistas of wonderful beauty, radiate in
many directions. The scenery is considered almost equal to
that of Innisfallen, and certainly is unsurpassed by any shore
view on the Lower Lake. The umbrageous charms of stately
forest-tree and cheerful evergreen shrub are as rife in these
woods as in any place about Killarney ; the expanse of waters,
stretching away to Castle-Lough Bay, often in the declining
sunbeams glow like burnished gold. On the right hand the
Tore Mountain as a background, and the wooded peninsula
of Muckross along the water's edge ; again, on the left, the
island of Ross, with its romantic old castle; and, further off,
the densely wooded Innisfallen—altogether, with the smaller
• -
Killarney and the Lakes. 49
islands in the foreground, combine to make one of the fairest
sylvan pictures the visitor finds at Killarney.
If the tourist is not dismayed by the fatigue of the journey,
he may from this point ascend the Sheehy Mountains, and, if
he is not tired of wandering through the wild woods, descend
again by Calinigaun. This district, and especially these
woods, were once the haunts of the red deer ; a few still re¬
main, but are so shy that the visitor rarely sees them. One
of the great attractions of this shore is the stag-hunt which
takes place every year during the Killarney races. It is a
beautiful and exhilarating scene, and generally not a cruel
one ; for the stag, when closely pressed by the hounds, takes
to the water and is saved by the boats.
FOU RTH DAY.
HE excursion planned for to-day—that through the
Gap of Dunloe, by Aghadoe, and returning through
the Upper Lake—is one of the choicest imaginable.
As the distance is considerable, and the places and
objects of interest numerous, the tourist must start early ;
and, if the weather be propitious, he will endorse the senti¬
ment which calls Killarney " a little Paradise." We may
make the first portion of the journey by car ; but the re¬
mainder, to the head of the Upper Lake, must be performed
on the back of one of the sure-footed mountain ponies of the
district, unless the tourist is robust enough to trust to the
" shoemaker's black horses," as our Teutonic friends have it.
Before starting, we arrange for a boat to be in waiting for us
at the head of the Upper Lake, so that we may return
through the entire stretch of the lakes. This excursion is a
favourite one with those who can only spare a single day for
a visit to Killarney, and who wish to do what they undertake
thoroughly and without over-fatiguing themselves.
Driving along the road, which skirts the northern shore of
Lough Leane, we pass the Royal Victoria Hotel, about a mile
after leaving the town; and proceeding some mile and a
quarter further west, turn off the main road to inspect the
ruined shrines of—
Aghadoe,
the venerable relics of bygone and forgotten ages, where the
shrines of Paganism and Christianity stand side by side, the
vanquished and the victor, both silent and alike forlorn. If
you ask for their histories—and they must have seen eventful
50
Killarney and the Lakes.
days, periods of quietude and times of rough trial—your
guide can only connect them with his fairy legend, or, point¬
ing to one of the surrounding gravestones that record little
more than that the tenant beneath lived and died, tell you
that such also, simply and truly, is the story of those illus¬
trious monuments.
The remains consist of a church, a round tower, and a
round castle. Of the latter, but portion of the basement
story remains; it is quite easy to ascend, the height of the
fragment being only about twelve feet. It measures in outer
circumference fifty-two feet, and the thickness of its wall was
three and a half feet. The stones, laid in regular courses, are
large and well dressed ; the masonry was much better than
that of either the adjacent church or castle. Numbers of the
stones were stolen by the peasantry to mark tombs in the
graveyard; but its destruction is conjectured to have been
caused by "gold seekers," who have injured the antiquities
of Ireland more than all the devastations of her wars and
rebellions.
The castle, called the "Bishop's Chair," as the round tower
is called the " Pulpit," is about thirty feet in height ; its walls
are seven feet in thickness, and contain a flight of stairs
within their space. It stands within an earthen enclosure ;
and from this circumstance, united with its round configura¬
tion, is thought to belong to the ninth century. Its simili¬
tude to the Saxon castles, which almost invariably were
round and erected on a tumulus, has often been remarked.
The cathedral consists of nave and choir, divided by a
wall, which evidently was once pierced by a door. The
entire length is about eighty feet long by twenty broad; and
the nave appears to have been the older division, for they
are of unequal antiquity. It was lighted by two windows
round-headed and small. It is in a very ruinous state, much
of the south wall having fallen. There is a narrow double
lancet over the spot in the choir where the altar stood ; and
another twin window in the side wall imparted a " dim reli¬
gious light." It contains a few tombs. This portion of the
building is thought to belong to the thirteenth century, while
the architecture of the nave is referred to the seventh. Few
and broken as those walls are, they are yet embellished with
an architectural gem, a Romanesque doorway of elaborate
fashion and exquisite finish, in the western wall of the nave.
It consists of a semicircular arch, springing from pillars, the
spaces between which and the jambs are chiselled into fret¬
work ; the pillars are surmounted by plain capitals, and the
Kill dm ey and the Lakes.
face of the arch wrought into chevrons in low relief and beads
in mezzo-relievo. The effect is rich, light, and graceful, and
excites the visitor's wonderment that the door should be so
elegant, whilst the rest of the building is so extremely plain.
The stone is of a quality different to that used in the
remainder of the edifice. The walls are densely covered with
ivy: and we see so many sad memorials of humanity strew¬
ing the ground, we might well wish that man had taken a
lesson from that simple plant, and covered them up, even as
the ivy covers the mouldering walls.
Again taking our seats on our car, we continue our west¬
ward drive, and crossing the river Laune, we soon reach—
Dunloe Castle,
standing prominently on the summit of a small hill, which has
been terraced to receive it. It is a fine object in the land¬
scape, and the views from it are extremely picturesque.
Originally erected for the defence of the pass of the river
Laune and for guarding Dunloe Gap, the fortress withstood
some severe struggles in the earlier wars and insurrections
of the country, during the reigns of Henry and Elizabeth.
During the civil war of 1641, General Ludlow besieged
it ; the garrison defended it bravely, and only surren¬
dered when the bombardment had laid the greater part of
the fortress in ruins. The edifice is now fitted up as a
gentleman's residence, the dilapidation having been repaired,
and the harsher asperities of strife modernized to meet the
polished requirements of these "piping times of peace." Yet
it retains enough of its warlike character to explain how
capable of withstanding the brunt of combat it was in the
days when men were chivalrous, and rifled cannon and thou¬
sand pounders, with all their crushing horrors, were unknown.
The prospect from the battlement is charming, as indeed the
views are everywhere here about. In addition to the graces
of mountain and lake scenery, are the diversity of rusticity, of
soft and spreading meadow lands. The excursion to Dunloe
Castle is frequently made by water, the row along the river
Laune being particularly pleasing.
Leaving the castle, and continuing our ride for another
half-mile, we reach the entrance to the celebrated—
Gap of Dunloe;
and turn aside to examine a cave discovered in 1838, by
some labourers employed in digging a trench. Of circular
shape, it was constructed of uncemented stones inclining
52 Killamey and the Lakes.
inwards ; and on the larger stones of the roof were Ogham
inscriptions, which tended to show that this was some
Druidical temple or place of sepulture employed in dark
ages before the introduction of Christianity. When first
entered, it was found to contain several human bones and
some skulls.
The Gap is a strangely wild gorge, separating the Tomies
Mountain from the Macgillicuddy Reeks, and running almost
due south to a distance of about four miles. On one side the
stern grandeur of the Reeks looms high above the traveller ;
and on the other the rugged magnificence of the Tomies
GAP OF DUNLOE.
commands his unqualified admiration. The poetic concep¬
tions of the peasantry attribute its formation to a sword-cut
from a great warrior giant of old. The gates of this romantic
valley are almost perpendicular rocks, which scarce give
room for the road between them. The hills on either side
of the opening are spurs of the great mountains, and called
respectively the Holly and Bull Mountains. A small and
wild stream traverses the valley, expanding at various places
into gloomy lakes, called the Ctimmeen Thomeen Lakes, all
remarkable for the inky blackness of their waters. The
THE TURNPIKE, CAP OF DUNLOfi.
Killarney and the Lakes. 53
farthest of them, named Black Lough, exceeds the others in
the darkness of its waters and probably in coldness. It is
considered by the same romantic judgment which asserts the
Gap to have been cleft with Finn MacCouhal's sword to be
the identical place where St. Patrick drowned the last ser¬
pent ; and this, so Pat tells you, is the reason why the fish
were " all druv out of it." The other lakelets abound in fish ;
in this, there are none.
Proceeding along the valley, the rocks rise on either side
in the wildest confusion, apparently ready at any moment to
topple over and crush the visitor. The narrow torrent is
crossed twice by the road, on rough but picturesque bridges ;
and the brawling waters rushing along parallel to it intensify
the desolate but sublime character of the scene. As we
advance, the outline of the mountains changes. Huge
boulders appear above the path, and shattered fragments of
rock strew the steep mountain slopes. The Purple Mountain,
with all its chromatic beauties ; the Tomies, with its glowing
lights and intense shadows ; and the Reeks, lifting their
aspiring summits ; then the black unruffled lakelets, as cold,
and still, and silent as death, combine to make a picture
which has no equal in Killarney. It is a scene where all the
utter solitude of desolation lives and reigns—a picture of the
valley of the shadow of death. In the distance of about
two miles, after leaving Cushvalley Lough, the road rises
about four hundred feet, and the way is encumbered with
rocks. The guide will not fail to call the visitor's attention
to the gurgling of a subterranean rill that issues from the
Serpent Lake ; nor to point out to him the eyrie of an eagle
high up in an unapproachable cliff of the Purple Mountain.
Close to Black Lough, where the valley narrows so as
to leave scarce room for the road and the dashing stream,
we come to some curious rocks, called the Turnpike. As
cars cannot proceed farther, it is usual to have ponies await¬
ing the visitor to take him on. Here a man comes forward,
and, for sixpence a shot, or cheaper " if a quantity are
taken," fires a small cannon. The effect is wonderful. A
thousand repetitions of the sound spring out from the moun¬
tain, caverns, and hollows; a perfect torrent of thunder
rushes from the peaks and ravines between them and seems
hurtled back again in confusion by the precipices of the
Purple Mountain. Again the assault of sound is made on the
Reeks, and again repulsed from the Purple Rocks; and this
conflict of sound goes on between rock and rock, booming
like a great piece of ordnance, or crashing like a thunder-
54
Killarney and the Lakes.
bolt, until gradually lowering its intensity, it drops quivering
into silence, and leaves the sensation that it has not ceased,
but gone farther off.
Before we leave the neighbourhood, we visit—
The Logan Stone,
or " balance rock," as the peasantry term it; one of those
curious old-world remains, the use of which has sorely
puzzled "clerks in antique lore profoundly skilled." It is a
mighty boulder, about twenty feet in circumference, resting
on another rock, and so delicately balanced that we can
THE LOGAN STONE.
move it with a touch, although it weighs many tons. It is
said to have been fashioned in this remarkable manner by
the Druids ; but this statement is in all probability incorrect,
although, likely enough, they venerated it. Pat, as usual,
has plenty to tell about so interesting a monument, and
boldy asserts that its balancing was a little feat which amused
the leisure of that gentleman who twisted and made a rope
of sand on the strand of Castle-Lough Bay.
At the end of the Gap of Dunloe we reach the Gearha7tieen,
or Cummeendnff' River, a sullen stream which issues from
Lough-na-bric-dearg (" red trout lake "), a dreary little tarn,
circled by overhanging rocks, at the further extremity of—
Killarney and the Lakes.
55
The Black Valley,
Cummeenduff Glen, or Coom-a-Dhur, to give it its proper
name, and after a tumultuous course of scarce half-a-dozen
miles, during which it widens out into a few gloomy lakelets,
falls into the head of the Upper Lake. A detour up the
Black Valley is well worth the expenditure of time, if we
can afford it. Whatever may be the estimation entertained
by visitors as to the Pass of Dunloe—and very opposite
opinions have been placed on record by different writers—
there can be no second about the grandeur of the Black
Valley. It is the guerdon for which we toiled along the
rugged pathway of Dunloe. We wend our way amid moun¬
tain ranges after mountain, like the columns of a spreading
temple, whose flooring is the chill, unrippled lakelet, and
whose roof is the azure dome of heaven, and admire the
glorious lights and shades to be found in all directions.
Regaining the road, we follow the course of the river,
through what is still known as Lord Brandon's Demesne,
though it has long since passed into other hands, cheerfully
paying the toll of a shilling which goes towards keeping the
path in such excellent repair. Our road conducts us past
the charmingly situated cottage in which his lordship resided,
to a small quay where we find our boat awaiting us. Em¬
barking and rowing down the stream, we soon find ourselves
on the bosom of—
The Upper Lake,
studded with elfin islands, and embraced by mountain-peaks,
towering to the sky abrupt and dark, whilst their base is
radiant with the freshest foliage. Who can but admire the
tranquil surface of the waters that reflect all this aspiring
magnificence and wind in and out through their umbrageous
shade, and enjoy the calm delight of gliding gently through
the scene, viewing it under circumstances where the mind
can give all attention to it as it seems to pass along, and we
ourselves to remain quiescent, like some winding panorama
passing? Seemingly land-locked, we wonder where will be
our exit, as each headland, rock, and mountain, not before seen,
comes into view ; but yet we wend our way amongst them,
and our boatmen point out, as we pass, the attractions
of the charming islands.
MacCarthy Mora's Island is one of the first, luxurious with
evergreens, amongst which the Lebanon cedars thrive. Then
comes Ronayne's Island, where an English gentleman, who
loved nature more than comfort, once resided. Here may
56 Killamey and the Lakes.
be had some of the finest views of the lake ; and it is, there¬
fore, a favourite place with artists to sketch from. If the
visitor lands, he will seek in vain for a trace of Ronayne's
house or garden. Eagle Island is reputed to have been
frequented by those birds. Oak and Juniper Islands are so
called because of the woods which cover them. Arbutus
Island is clad with that lovely shrub, growing there with
marked luxuriance. Column's Eye is the promontory which
marks the extremity of the Lower Lake, and shows where
the strait, called the Long Range, begins. Here there is a
cluster of rocks of fantastic form, and the guide will help us
to trace their fancied resemblances to a leg of mutton, a round
of beef, and many other things. He will also point out
seeming footmarks on some large stone, probably boundary
marks, but, to Pat's thinking, incontestable proofs that giants
dwelt on those shores. Still winding through scenes of love¬
liness we float down a placid stream, above whose wooded
shores Tore Mountain rises bold and majestic. There is an
exuberant richness in the foliage and a brightness in the light
that in these latitudes are not elsewhere seen. Fresh aspects
of beauty appear, as we proceed—the luxury of woods and
the sublimity of mountains repeating themselves ; the clouds
passing over the summits, and casting long shadows on the
waters, and those following shades climbing up the hill-side ;
then the little streams marking the mountain sides like silver
threads laid over them. We soon reach—
The Eagles' Nest,
a conical mountain, justly celebrated for its echo. Its height
is one thousand one hundred feet, and its form conical. Its
base is covered with evergreens, and higher up the naked
summit forms a tremendous precipice, in the crevices of
which the eagle builds her nest. Here it is usual to land,
and the profusion and size of the ferns first attract the visitor's
attention ; but doubtless he is most anxious to evoke the
famous echo. From his station, the bugler sounds a single
note. At once the echo responds, and hill and glen and rock
take up the cadence, and the sound seems rebounding from
one to the other, as if it were some tangible substance. Now
the bugler rings out a rapid succession of notes, and instantly
the mountains wail forth a flood of rich harmony,
"beautiful, but sadly sweet,
As when harp-strings and soft winds meet,
And breathe a low, unmeasured tone,
To mortal minstrelsy unknown."
•3MIHH HI3A\ OIO
Killarney and the Lakes.
57
The boatmen fire a cannon with startling effect. A
thousand crashing thunders answer. Hoarse booming and
strange discordant clatter run amongst the rocks, retreat in
sullen growls, ring up again with startling nearness, again
fly off like a hissing rocket, and again tear the air like a
bursting shell, fall away, again to ricochet fainter and farther
amongst the mighty ramparts.
Again we launch our boat, and glide happily along; but
the current grows swift, and the noise of rushing waters is in
our ears.
eagles' nest.
Old Weir Bridge
is iri sight. Our pilot grasps the helm with firmer hand ;
the boatmen bend to their swinging oars ; our fleet craft
cleaves the flashing waters. Nearer we come to the arch,
the waves splashing and gurgling. Now the boatmen give
a stronger, firmer pull—another—the oars are shipped, and
like an arrow from the bow we shoot the rapid. Scarce
have we recovered from the excitement ere we are again in
tranquil waters, our bugler's mellow notes all but speaking
the dulcet words—
" There is not in this wide world a valley so sweet
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet."
Old Weir Bridge serves to connect Dinish Island with the
58 Killarney and the Lakes.
mainland; it consists of two arches, only one of which is
navigable. The western channel debouches on the Bay of
Glena; the eastern, that which we take, flows into the Middle
or Muckross Lake. The tourist lands on the richly wooded—
Dinish Island,
to see 0'Sullivan's Punch Bowl, and, if he has brought it
to eat salmon sliced and roasted on arbutus skewers. Em¬
bowered in the ever present and ever beautiful arbutus
groves, a pretty rustic cottage is built for the accommodation
of visitors. Here, as at Glena, we can have our cooking done,
whilst we saunter about and walk over to see Brickeen Islandj
THE COTTAGE ON DINISH ISLAND.
and further on, across another bridge, then entering Muck¬
ross demesne, visit the lakelet of Doolah, and the old copper
mines. The name is properly Dine-iske ("the beginning of
the waters"), but the boatmen know it as Dinish Island.
Again we embark, this time on—
The Middle Lake,
also called Tore Lake send Muckross Lake. It is about two
miles long, by one mile wide; it does not equal in beauty
the Upper Lake, yet exceeds the Lower Lake in loveliness.
It also has its wonderful echoes, and there are creeks and
Killarney and the Lakes. 59
caves along its shores, which the tourist will view with much
interest. The level of the water is five feet below that of the
Upper Lake. There are four islands in it; while there are
thirty in the Lower Lake, and six in the Upper Lake. Perhaps
the visitor, after embarking, would do best to order his
boat to coast the southern shore, where the rocks and
headlands are wildest and highest, and the lake deepest.
The visitor will be gratified with the rich colouring of the
rocks and the diversity imparted by the ferns, mosses, and
lichens which crowd each fissure and adorn each hollow on
their rugged surface ; and the gnarled roots and fantastic
boughs of old trees that crown their heights overhanging the
waters.
But night draws on apace, and we port our helm and
make for the land. We row, in the twilight, up the lovely
strait that separates Brickeen Island from the Muckross
demesne, and then entering Glena Bay, cross the Lower
Lake, and land at the quay near Ross Castle, where our
conveyances are waiting to take us to our hotel, after a long
but delightful day's excursion.
FIFTH DAY.
|p||||fi|UR excursions to-day are two-fold. In the morning
I 5$1Ig] we PurPose taking a run along Glenflesk; and we
shall spend the afternoon wandering about the
demesne of Lord Kenmare, and, if time permit,
take another peep at Ross Castle, before bidding adieu to
Killarney and its beautiful scenery.
Glenflesk
should be visited by every tourist, ere he turns his back upon
Killarney; it lies to the south-east of the town. Its most
beautiful spots may be easily reached from the railway
station at Headfort, eight miles from Killarney ; but it is
best to drive through the glen on an outside car, as in that
way we can examine its chief features at our leisure. The
glen is a richly wooded valley, through which the Flesk
carries the surplus waters of Lough Kittane into the Lower
Lake. Immense rocks project from either side of the glen,
and the little stream leaps impetuously in a series of pretty
cascades over the barriers which obstruct its path. There
are several interesting spots in the valley. Filadown, its
most picturesque part, was long the retreat of a celebrated
6o Killamey and the Lakes.
outlaw, named Owen MacCarthy; and his den, the Labig
Owen, is a small cavern about half-way up in the Demon's
Cliff, inaccessible without a ladder, and the path to it is
difficult to find and intricate to follow. Near the upper
entrance to the glen, on a commanding site, stand the
ruins of Killaha Castle, formerly the stronghold of the
O'Donoghues of the glens ; hard by are the remains of the
old church. The Druids' circles at Lissivigeen should be
inspected ; and we can also visit Flesh Castle, which stands
on a picturesquely wooded knoll, around the base of which
the river sweeps in eddying current. An extensive pano¬
ramic view of the Middle and Lower Lakes may be enjoyed
from the castle terrace; and a beautiful round tower, with
projecting battlements, standing at a moderate elevation
above the river forms an interesting feature in the surround¬
ing scenery. The road home conducts us past—
Lough Kittane,
or Guitane, a retired and spacious lake, lying under the
shadows of Stoompa, a mountain two thousand two hundred
and eighty feet high. Kittane in extent nearly equals Tore ;
it is almost six miles in circumference, and contains three
small islands. Both the lake and the river which flows from it
afford the angler much sport; its trout are more abundant
and better flavoured than those caught in the other lakes.
Surrounded by wild and barren hills, gloomy glens, and
weird rocks, Kittane would anywhere, save in the vicinity
of such superb contrast as the waters of Tore and Leane pro¬
duce, be considered a lake of very remarkable attraction ; at
present, it is little known and rarely visited, except by fishers.
Having reached our hotel, and duly attended to the calls
of hunger, we set out in the afternoon to visit—
Kenmare Demesne,
which, with its charming pleasure gardens and lovely sylvan
glades, Lord Kenmare has, with the generous liberality which
is ever the character of a true gentleman, freely thrown open
to the public, who, on their part, show commendable appre¬
ciation of the favour. A magnificent mansion was built in
1880, a little to the north of the old one; it stands on an
eminence, is of Tudor architecture and composed of red
brick, and it forms a conspicuous and pleasing object from
all parts of Lough Leane. It is near the entrance to the
grounds, opposite the cathedral, which is the only gate
Killarney and the Lakes. 61
closed against the tourist. The demesne has recently been
considerably enlarged by the addition of the West Park,
which extends for a considerable distance along the northern
shore of the lake. There are, all over the grounds, exquisite
walks, enlivened with occasional flower-beds and beaming
with groves of rarest shrubs, rich verdant meadows, and
belts of forest-trees ; disposed so as to give through their
occasional opening choice prospects of the glancing lake and
towering mountains. The Deer Park should not be for¬
gotten by the visitor. Here all is wild and natural ; ferns
and flowers abound in its dells and glens, and it has an
aspect of neglect, in charming contrast to the highly-wrought
effects and tasteful formalities of the demesne and pleasure
garden. The antiquarian will find an object here which
must interest him—a Druids' altar. The country people call
it Clough-na-Ciiddy ("Cuddy's stone"), after, perhaps, the
great chief of the Reeks, whom the guide will assure you
cast it from Carran Tual to here. It is a rock, surrounded
by a circular grove of hawthorns and oaks, gloomy and
ancient and weird-looking. On the top there are two hollows,
which are said never to be without water in them. The
stone is regarded with veneration, if not awe, by the
peasantry, who believe that this water is an elixir for sore
eyes and a panacea for rheumatic pains.
Keeping to the left, the visitor reaches a gate leading to—
Ross Castle.
From the battlement and windows, a comprehensive view of
the domain we have just left may be obtained, the mansion
appearing to much advantage. This is a glorious spot to
linger and enjoy the gorgeous beauties of the declining day.
Most beautifully the dreamy mists of gathering evening wrap
the fading hills—
"Fair scene for childhood's opening bloom,
For sportive youth to stray in ;
For manhood to enjoy his strength,
And age to wear away in."
Killar>iey.
5
ferriter's castle.
DINGLE BAY AND THE COAST OF KERRY.
AVING visited most of the lovely spots in the
vicinity of Killarney, we will now devote a day or
two to an excursion around the coast of Kerry
occupying—
THE SIXTH DAY
by a drive to Cahirciveen and a visit to the island of Valentia,
interesting as the place where the ends of the Atlantic cables
rest on European soil.
Cahirciveen
[Hotel : Royal\
is forty-two miles west of Killarney, and can be reached by
means of a mail car which leaves the latter town daily (fare,
6s.). Half the drive is through dreary bogs, where mud
cabins and potato-patches alternate with dismal swamps,
treacherous drains, stacks of turf, and wilderness of heather;
and yet this cheerless waste seems thickly populated, and
the peasantry appear as strong and healthy as those who
possess more shelter and better food. As we approach the
shore of the Bay of Dingle, the road becomes most interesting.
We have some glorious views of the mountains on the oppo¬
site side; and eastward, towards the great ocean, we see
the Blasquet, and several lesser islands, rising precipitously
from the water, and the bold headlands of Ventry, by dis¬
tance softened to a cloud-like, cerulean indistinctness. The
C ah irciveen—V alentia.
63
town of Cahirciveen is small, but has a neat, thrifty appear¬
ance. The quay is accessible to vessels of considerable
burden, and the fishery trade is carried on with success.
Unlike most Irish towns, this is a place of comparatively
modern erection. With well-paved streets and flagged side¬
walks, and beautified with the stately CPConnell Memorial
Church, the resources of the town will become appreciated.
Between the island of Valentia, which lies directly west, and
the mainland is the harbour, guarded by a series of low rocky
islands, which, when seen from a distance, appear to form
an almost unbroken barrier across its mouth. The popula¬
tion of the town is about two thousand.
There are several interesting spots in the neighbourhood.
The remains of Carhan, the old mansion of the O'Connell
family, and the birth-place of the illustrious statesman, and
the ruins of Littm and Ballycarberry Castles are among
them. The latter is near Donlus Head, a bluff promontory
to the north-west of the town, in which are some caves
that may be entered in fine weather. This promontory is
separated from the town by the gulf, formed by the mouth
of the little river Ferta. To reach—
The Island of Valentia,
we make our way to the landing-stage, three miles to the
south-west of Cahirciveen. The strait at this point is about
half a mile wide, and is crossed by a ferry boat, which con¬
veys us to Knightstown7 a village which, small as it is (in
1881, it had only 164 inhabitants), contains a good hotel, and
near which are some valuable slate quarries. The island,
which belongs to the Knight of Kerry, is about six miles in
length, and its shores are indented with bays and cliffs, and
guarded by isolated rocks, against which the tremendous
waves of the Atlantic surge with uncontrolled fury. Bray
Heady- its most westerly point, rises precipitously a thousand
feet above the sea, and from its lofty crest we have a
glorious view. Fifteen miles to the south, the Skelligs loom
like pyramids above the boundless ocean ; and all the islands
in sight have an extraordinary and abrupt outline, stern, yet
picturesque. Northward, we survey the lofty mountains of
Donquin, Dunmore Head, the Great Blasquet, and many
lesser islands elevated over the dashing waves ; some that
* This head must not be confounded with the promontory of the same name in
County Wicklow. It is very curious that two such bluff precipitous headlands,
the one on the west, and the other on the east coast of Ireland, should bear the
same name.
64
Valentia—Dingle Bay.
look like batteries and castles, others that appear like Gothic
houses. Inland, we behold the many-tinted inclines of the
Iveragh Mountains, and all their wild, serrated ridges ; and
seaward, we gaze upon the mighty Atlantic, spreading into
a vast horizon, that seems a wall of water.
There are some grand walks about Valentia Island; and
the visitor should not leave without inspecting the light¬
house and the beacon tower, built on wild and romantic
elevations. He should keep the lower road, round by the
coast (about fifteen miles in circuit), as the interior of the
island is comparatively uninteresting. The telegraph ter¬
mination is a sight worth going all the distance to see, for
we may justly regard the successful completion of the electric
cables as the greatest achievement of our scientific age.
Dingle Bay,
along the south coast of which our road from Killarney lay,
is bounded on the north by a wild peninsula through which
runs a backbone of lofty mountains, terminated by the
Brandon Mountain (3,127 feet), which presents a bold
abrupt cliff to the sea. The bay contains several good
harbours, the chief of which are Castlemaine, at its head
(into which the river Laune conveys the surplus water of the
Killarney Lakes), Dingle, and Ventry; and the northern
shore of the peninsula is indented by Smerwick Harbour^
Brandon Bay, and Tralee Bay. It was formerly in a more
prosperous state than it is now, owing to its extensive trade
with Spain, a colony from which country are said to have
settled in it. Ferriteds Castle, a ruin in a wild spot, on the
coast of the Atlantic, of which now only a single tower
remains, was, of old, the seat of the family of that name, the
last of whom lost his life and his lands in consequence of the
part he took in the rebellion of 1641. Dunmore Head, the
bluff extremity of the peninsula, is remarkable as being the
most westerly land in Ireland, and nearer America than any
point of the European shores. The country people know it
as Tig-na-Vauriah. It is surrounded by "any number"
of rocky isles, the largest of which, the Great Blasquet,
presents some lofty and steep cliffs to the sea.
One of the most exquisite excursions the tourist can make
is to sail along the iron-bound coast of Kerry, keeping as close
under the land as safety will permit. He thus beholds a
panorama passing before him of indescribable magnificence
—wonderful alike for its variety and sublimity. The Clyde
The Coast of Kerry. 65
Shipping Company afford us facilities for enjoying the voyage,
one of their steamers plying regularly between Dingle and
Cahirciveen and Cork, and vice versa, calling at many
interesting spots on the way. Embarking on the vessel at
Cahirciveen, we are carried through the somewhat tortuous
navigation of the channel inside the island of Valentia,
crossing Follhtimmerum Bay, the sheltered creek in which
the shore ends of the four Atlantic cables rest. Our exit to
the ocean is under the gigantic cliffs of Portmagee; and then
we thread our way through the Hog Islands—Puffin, the
three Skelligs, Dinish, Scariff, Molans, and many others,
remarkable for their stern wildness or their outre appearance.
Some of the largest of them are strange wildernesses of bog
and rock, green with mosses, ferns, and lichens, and low-
growing plants that require constant moisture for their
support; but without a tree or shrub of any kind. There is
a lighthouse on one of the Skelligs to guide the mariner
during the hours of darkness ; and another on the Calf—the
most southern of three remarkable rocks at the end of the
great peninsula stretching between Bantry Bay and Ken-
mare. The other two are known as the Bull and Cow; and
all three received their titles from their supposed resem¬
blance to the animals whose name they bear.
But we shall not pass them to-day. At the entrance of—
The Kenmare Estuary,
we turn the head of our vessel inland, and steam up the bay
with the tide. On the northern shore is Derrynane, famous
as the residence of Daniel O'Connell. It is an irregular
but extensive pile of buildings, partly in the castellated style,
embellished and improved with shrubberies of evergreens
and plantations of forest-trees, as far as the situation, so
much exposed to the westerly gales, will allow. The ruins
of the Abbey stand on a peninsula, which at spring-tides
becomes isolated; they are extensive, and are as old as the
seventh century. Here is the family grave of the O'Connells,
but " the great agitator's " remains repose in peace beneath a
stately monument in the Glasnevin Cemetery at Dublin.
Staigue Fort, not far from Derrynane, is one of the most
remarkable antiquities of Ireland. It is generally considered
to be unique, and is thus described by Lewis :—
" It stands on a low hill nearly in the centre of an amphitheatre of
barren mountains, open from the south to the Bay of Kenmare, from
which it is about a mile and a half distant. The building, which is
nearly of a circular form, is constructed of the ordinary stone of the
country, but bears no mark whatever of a tool, having been evidently
66
Kenmare Estuary.
erected before masonry became a regular art. The only entrance is by a
doorway, barely five feet high, through a wall, thirteen feet thick, which
opens into an area of about ninety feet in diameter. The circumference
is divided into a series of compartments of steps or seats, ascending to
the top of the surrounding wall in the form of the letter X ; and in two
of those compartments are entrances to cells, constructed in the centre
of the wall. The average height of the wall on the outside is eighteen
feet, battering, as it rises, by a curve which produces a very singular
effect. The wall also batters on the inside, so as to be reduced from
about thirteen feet at the bottom to seven at the top. On the outside
the stones are small, and the joints are so filled with splinters of stone
as not to be removed without violence. The fort is surrounded by a
broad fosse. Various conjectures have been formed as to its origin and
use, the most probable of which appears to be that it was erected as a
place of refuge for the inhabitants and their cattle from the sudden
inroads of the pirates of former times."
Sneem is a fishing village, twelve miles from Kenmare, on
an estuary formed by the Sneem river and several mountain
streams which here flow into the Bay of Kenmare. It is a para¬
dise for anglers, who have to wander where the rushing
stream cleaves the mountain fastness, to cast the line at the
foot of splashing cataracts, or still seek the trout in the
sullen gloom of the lonely mountain tarns. Near the
mouth of this estuary there are several islands ; and between
it and the Blackwater is the large island of Rossmore. We
pass several fertile and picturesque islands—the largest
of which, Dunkerron, is about a mile in length ; and leave
our vessel, on its arrival at Kenmare, where we find rest
and repose, and which we make our head-quarters for the
thorough exploration of the district.
THE "KERRY DRAGOON."
KILLARNEY TO CORK,
BY THE PRINCE OF WALES' ROUTE.
AVING visited all that is worth seeing in the
neighbourhood of Killarney and Kenmare, and
rested ourselves for a time at the latter place after
the fatigue of sight-seeing, we take the coach to
Glengarriff and Bantry, which passes through Kenmare
between one and two o'clock every afternoon, in order to
proceed to Cork, by the Prince of Wales' route, so called
because his Royal Highness selected it on his visit to this
part of the country in 1858 ; and we are sure that any of our
readers who follow his example will endorse the high opinion
the Prince formed of it. The first part of the tour is made
by coach to Glengarriff (at which place we arrive in time to
spend the long summer's evening and the greater part of the
following day, and where we can "break" our journey for a
considerable time, if so disposed) and Bantry, from which
town the Cork and Bandon Railway conveys us to our
journey's end. The through fares are : First class, 22s.;
second class, 21s. An alternative route from Glengarriff—
that by car to Macroom, and thence to Cork by the Cork and
Macroom Railway—will be utilised for our return journey.
68
Kenmare, &c.
Before starting on our trip to Cork it may be well to note
that—
Kenmare
[Hotel : Lausdowtie Arms]
is a neat but small town (population, 1,279), about midway
between Glengarriff and Killarney. Sir William Petty
obtained a grant of land in this district, and in 1670 planted
here a colony of English, who established a fishery and iron
works on an extensive scale ; but the colony was harassed
by the Irish, and surrendering, after some resistance, was
allowed to embark for England, scantily supplied with pro¬
visions, On King William's conquest the colony was re¬
established and the fishery resumed ; but the forests were
soon exhausted, and the iron trade declined through want of
fuel. The ruins of the smelting works may be seen on the
east bank of the river Sheen.
The Sound of Ke?imare is crossed by a fine Suspension
Bridge, a striking object in the landscape. This estuary,
called improperly the Kenmare River, extends thirty miles ;
it is about five miles wide at its mouth. It is said to be the
deepest inlet along the coast, and affords safe anchorage for
vessels in almost every part, excepting some rocks near the
islands of Rossmore and Cappanacross.
The town is frequented in summer for the excellent bath¬
ing its clean and safe strand gives an opportunity of enjoy¬
ing. The river Blackwater, which flows into the sound
about six miles below the town, abounds with salmon, and is
much resorted to by the anglers.
There is not much to attract the antiquarian at Kenmare,
if we except the remains of a tower, called CronvwelPs Fort.
The ruins of the old church and of the small chapel, built for
the settlers by Sir W. Petty, still exist. On the river
Finnihy, near the town, are the remains of an ancient foot
bridge, consisting of portions of an arch apparently about
twenty-five feet span and about a yard wide. Several raths
are found in the neighbourhood. Near the church are the
remains of a Druids' circle. The Protestant Church is on an
eminence about a half-mile east of the town, and from it there
is a varied and delightful view of the bay and the mountains.
The Roman Catholic Church is surmounted by a fine spire.
The Convent is a handsome building in a cheerful, sunny
situation, surrounded with rich ornamental shrubbery and
pretty flower-beds. Almost all the poor children in the
district are educated by the nuns.
Glengarriff-on-Sea: Health Resort.
" KILLARNEY is somehow associated with excursion parties,
ascents, drives, ponies, echoes, buglers, and a dash of excitement.
GLENGARRIFF seems to woo you to a kind of lotos-eater's rest.
The Eccles Hotel, which lies in the hollow of the basin, seems to
have been got up as if to harmonize with this idea. It has all the
conveniences of a first-class hotel, and, besides these, the attrac¬
tions of a luxurious country house. It is a place where one would
almost welcome a wet day to enjoy its wealth of high-cla.ss pictures,
to examine its countless treasures of bric-a-brac, to get some clever
young lady friend to wade through the stores of excellent music,
and to render some of it on one of the pianos, or to ensconce your¬
self in an arm-chair and luxuriate in the mass of excellent reading
which is provided for you in the library. Glengarriff s beauty is
like that of Anthony's passion, whom age could not wither, or
whose infinite variety custom could not stale."—The Examiner.
"Eccles Hotel seems to possess all the delights which a love of
art, knowledge of men, and a taste for a good wine can insure.
Tourists declare that the cuisine at Eccles is as delicate as that oi
Breevort House, and that the charges are ridiculously small."
From Happy Thought Notes—Punch.—"Eccles Hotel is
worth far more than a passing visit. I am delighted with it. It is,
as far as attendance, cuisine, and general comfort, the best Hotel
I've been in."
TljE ECCErE^ IjOTELr
stands in its own tastefully laid-out Pleasure Grounds, through
which are five miles of beautiful walks and drives, commanding
splendid views of Glengarriff Harbour and Bantry Bay, with their
numerous beautifully-wooded islands. The new Marina, Pier, and
Postal Telegraph adjoin The Eccles Hotel. Boating, Fishing,
Library, Picture Gallery, Newsrooms, &c. Over ^20,000 have
recently been expended upon this famous hotel.
The Library of The Eccles Hotel contains a valuable collection
of standard literature, as well as important and scarce books of
reference on the industrial resources of Ireland ; also works in
French, Italian, and German, by celebrated authors.
The Musical Library is replete with operatic and other high-
class music.
Reduced tariff during the winter months.
For Terms, Guide Books, and Medical Opinions, apply to Mrs, ;
ECCLES, Glengarriff, co. Cork. \
CAUTION.—Tourists are recommended not to be misled by the
interested statements of car-drivers and others, but insist on being :
set down at the Eccles Hotel. <■
GLENGARRIFF-ON-SEA:
Glengarriff.
The first portion of our coach journey lies up the slope of
Caha Mountains, along a road constructed by Nimmo, an
eminent engineer. Near the summit of the ridge, at about
a thousand feet above the sea, we pass under a tunnel cut
through the rock, which separates the counties of Cork and
Kerry—" the kingdom of Kerry," as it was anciently called ;
and as our road is then down hill to Glengarriff, our pace be¬
coming comparatively rapid. As we proceed, we obtain views
of great beauty. Sometimes our road borders precipices of
frightful depth, overlooking glens and valleys that spread
away far as the eye can reach and fade into grey indistinct¬
ness. Then we have the distant mountains, looming so blue
and shadowy, and we catch glimpses of the glancing sea.
We pass streams that dash down the rocks in sheets of
foam, and valleys looking wildly desolate from the quantities
of great stones that strew them ; but we are carried safely to
our destination, and stop at—
Glengarriff,
at which there are two first-rate hotels, the Eccles and Royal,
about a mile apart. As our coach stops first at the former,
and the savoury smell of the dinner (now nearly ready)
is irresistible after our mountain drive, we determine on
alighting there, leaving some of our compagnons de voyage
to seek their quarters in the Royal hotel. After dinner, we
have time to look about us ; and we come to the conclusion
that our lines have indeed fallen in a pleasant place. Our
hotel has forty acres of richly planted private pleasure
grounds, with six miles of roads and paths, and shady seats ;
and is itself a place where one would almost welcome a wet
day to enjoy its wealth of high-class pictures, to examine its
countless treasures of bric-a-brac, to get some clever young
lady friend to wade through the stores of excellent music
and to render some of it on one of the pianos, or to ensconce
ones's self in an arm-chair and luxuriate in the mass of
excellent reading which is provided in the library.
Glengarriff is midway between Cork and Killarney, some
sixty-nine miles from the former city ; and as it is sur¬
rounded by spots of interest, we purpose making a short stay
here, so as to enjoy the lovely scenery. The glen, which is
situated on the north-western shores of Bantry Bay, is a deep
Alpine valley, about six miles in length and a quarter in
breadth. The hills enclosing it are of the wildest description,
singularly broken and irregular at their outline. Rocks and
stones, some of enormous dimensions, are flung together in
Glengarriff.
71
strange confusion; but the roughness is relieved by a variety
of luxuriant foliage, for the bases of the hills and all the
crevices and hollows are filled with trees and shrubs, which
grow to great perfection. The arbutus, the yew, and the holly,
as well as many American and tropical cryptogamia and
flowering plants, seem native to the place. Writers and
travellers of all classes have united in singing the praises of
the delightful bay. Thackeray exclaims, "Were such a bay
lying upon English shores, it would be a world's wonder;"
and Lord Macaulay and Sir David Wilkie call it the fairest
spot in the British Isles.
" Hail, charming' scene ! Glengarriffs Bay,
Yon mountains, streams, and dells,
The Atlantic waters' foaming spray,
Creation's wonder tells.
" Hail, Bantry's noble harbour deep !
Where Britain's fleet may ride,
And giant ships, in safety's keep,
May in or outward glide.
" Thy glorious waters, green and gemmed,
With beauteous islands crowned,
While the enchanting scene is hemmed
With purple hills around.
" At morning's dawn or evening's shade,
Thy glory's still the same ;
And ever will be so arrayed,
With English tourists' fame."
A project is afoot for the establishment here of a first-
class hydropathic establishment, for which, we should think,
the glen is admirably suited, its climate presenting a com¬
bination rarely realized even in the most frequented sana-
toriums. Glengarriff is surrounded on the north, east, and
west by the Iniskisk, Caha, Esk, Priest's Leap, and Sheehy
ranges of mountains, springing from Dursey Head and
running round on the border of Kerry to Bantry. and is thus
effectually sheltered from all easterly, northerly, and north¬
westerly winds. To the south it opens out on a lovely inlet
of Bantry Bay, and to all the ozone and other healing
influences which the broken and tempered Atlantic breezes
sweep in from the Gulf Stream. Standing, as it does, at the
bottom of a spacious horseshoe mountain basin, it is genial,
soft, and sunny without being enervating or relaxing. During
the winter the thermometer outside the window in the
sun occasionally reaches 83°, and seldom falls below 40°. An
outside coat is not often wanted ; and there is an absence of
fogs which renders the place peculiarly suitable for persons
suffering from consumption, chronic catarrh, and other
pulmonary diseases. The genial nature of the climate is
evidenced by the almost tropical luxuriance of the vegeta¬
tion everywhere abounding, of plants whose natural habitat
belongs to more southerly latitudes.
The village is but a small one ; it contains two places of
worship. The Protestant Church is a pretty modern build¬
ing, with a comfortable glebe house attached, picturesquely
7 2
Glengarriff.
situated over one of the inlets of the bay. The Catholic
Church is a plain, unsightly building, out of character with
the beauty of the place, further up the glen; but a new one
is in contemplation.
If the tourist is not impatient to proceed to Killarney he may
spend a week, if possible, in rambling about the sinuous
rocky glens, through the elfin dells, or boating over the
smooth translucent bay of Glengarriff. The mountains that
encompass Glengarriff abound with game ; the rivers afford
pleasant angling, and the bay teems with fish.
Among the many interesting excursions, the chief are those
up the valleys of the Owvane and the Lee to Keim-an-eigh
Pass, Gougane-Barra, and Macroom {see Index), whence
the railway runs direct to Cork, and another road leads
through the mountains to Killarney ; that across the hills to
the railway station at Dunmanway, whence we can return to
Cork by rail, or to Glengarriff, vid Bantry, by the route
already sketched ; and that along the shores of the bay to
Castletovvn-Berehaven. For the latter, we have the choice
of two routes. We can proceed by car along the mountain
road (a mail car performs the journey each way daily),
visiting Cromwell's Bridge, on the way. Nothing is known
of the origin or builder of the bridge ; but the inhabitants
have a tradition that it was constructed by Cromwell's orders.
They tell us that, when the Protector was on his way to quell
an insurrection in O'Sullivan's country, the stream was a
flood, and he had considerable difficulty in fording it. Upon
this, he told the natives that, if they did not build him a
bridge before his return, he would hang up a man for every
hour he was delayed ; and knowing him to be a man of his
word, they set to work to erect it. But the most enjoyable
route is that by water. There is not, in the United Kingdom,
a more magnificent succession of views than that which
greets the tourist as he sails along this noble estuary. Ex¬
cept on the east, the bay is environed with mountains that
rise in precipitous grandeur, their rifted peaks cinctured
with clouds. Before him is Bere Island, with its lofty hills,
that seem to start up abruptly from the water, crowned with
martello and signal towers. Farther to sea are the moun¬
tain barriers of Mizenhead, which divide Dunmanus from
Roaring Water Bay. On the northern side is Crowhead and
the lone island of Dursey. As we glide up the Haven of Bere
by the western entrance, to arrive in a lake of the most beau¬
tiful character, entirely girded by a zone of mountains of the
finest and boldest outline, assuming a perpetual play of
ROCHE'S ROYAL HOTEL,
GLEN.G ARRIFF.
THIS hotel, commanding the finest view of the beautiful
scenery of Glengarriff, stands in its own tastefully planted
grounds, which slope to the water's edge, and have within their
limits the romantic glen and well-known waterfall of Glengarriff.
The internal arrangements are in accord with the extent of
the establishment, and the requirements of a first-class con¬
nection.
Large Public Drawing Room, Billiard Room, &c. Lawn
Tennis. Boats and Carriages.
Special arrangements are made for families or others, desirous
of passing some time at the seaside.
Excursions to the caves and parties for fishing, sailing, and
shooting personally arranged by the proprietor, who has special
privileges from some of the neighbouring landed gentry.
As a health resort, Glengarriff is now celebrated.
The proprietor of Roche's Royal Hotel holds testimonials
from some fifty of the most eminent medical authorities from all
parts of the United Kingdom, members of the British Medical
Association, who stopped at this hotel in the summer of 1879.
Dr. Mathias O'Keeffe, A.M., M.D., Professor Queens
College, Cork, writes as follows :—
"I cannot speak too highly of Glengarriff as a health resort,
especially of Roche's Royal Hotel, surrounded, as it is, by its
beautiful grounds, traversed by delightful avenues, and shaded by
picturesque groves. Its southern aspect and protection from
north and north-east winds render it a peculiarly desirable winter
residence for invalids suffering from bronchial or other pectoral
affections. The attention received, with the regularity and clean¬
liness of the hotel, cannot be excelled. To all this may be added
an admirable cuisine and cheerful society."
The public conveyances, in connection with the Cork and
Bandon Railway, set down and take up passengers at the door
of the hotel.
VIEW FROM ROCHE'S ROYAL HOTEL CLENCARRIFF.
Castletown, &c.
13
glorious lights and shadows, as the clouds sail past or gather
in their wild recesses, their furrows, and glens. Some moun¬
tains are bald and stern, others are clad with heather ; but
all are singularly abrupt, and seem to rise like walls above
the dark green waves.
Castletown
[Inn : Harrison's]
is situated on a bay at the head of the haven, and owes its
present thriving condition to the copper mines in the neigh¬
bourhood ; before they were opened, it was only a miserable
street of fishermen's cabins. There are some remains of its
ancient Castlej and the town is remarkable, as being the
spot where the few of General Hoche's army, who landed in
1796, were made prisoners. On the eastern, or most sea¬
ward entry of the haven, are situated the interesting ruins
of the Castle of Dunboy. In the " Pacata Hibernia," a work'
compiled by an officer in Queen Elizabeth's army during the
rebellion in the latter part of her reign, we find a curious
account of the assault and capture of this fortress. In the
absence of O'Sullivan, it was defended by his lieutenant,
MacGroghegan. Possessed of but five small cannon, he held
out long and bravely against the well-equipped expedition of
Sir George Carew, until the walls of the castle were battered
to fragments, and the stones crumbled away beneath the feet
of his reduced garrison. Mortally wounded and with a few
survivors, he retreated to the cellars ; and on the enemy
pouring into this last refuge, he seized a torch, and, whilst
attempting to thrust it into a powder barrel, fell dead, and
with his blood extinguished the flame.
And now bidding a reluctant adieu to the glades and
glooms and sequestered wilds of Glengarriff, where—
" Dashing soft from rocks around,
Bubbling runnels joined the sound,"
we resume our journey to Cork. The car leaves the hotel
at a quarter past nine in the morning, and we drive through
the beautifully wooded grounds of Roche's Royal Hotel, which
extend for a considerable distance along the shore of the bay
and contain the well-known cascade, in order to pick up
those of our companions who have made it their head¬
quarters during their stay in the neighbourhood. Emerging
from the further gate of the pleasant grounds, our road lies
through a barren, though, if we are to credit the traditions
of Keating, an interesting district. It was here, we are
KtUarney, 6
74
Bantry..
assured by that unimpeachable authority, that Ladra, the
first human being who ever visited Ireland, landed on the
green isle exactly forty days before the flood ! We cross the
Owvanne and the Coomhola streams, and as we draw near
the end of our drive the river Mealogh (well named " the
murmuring river "), the latter by a two-arched stone bridge.
This stream, which has its rise on Mount Owen, scarcely
ten miles in the interior, has a brawling, tumultuous, pic¬
turesque run ; and tumbles into the bay over the Falls of
Dunamarc, which our coachman points out to us, pulling up
that we may enjoy the scene at our leisure. And so, in due
course, we leave the coach at—
Bantry
[Hotels : Vickery's and RailwayJ,
literally, " white strand," a name very descriptive of the situa¬
tion of the place. It is built nearly at the head of Bantry
Bay, and it consists chiefly of four streets. The little town is
enclosed by high mountains which catch every passing cloud
from the Atlantic, involving the place in frequent mists and
showers. There are two good hotels in Bantry; and the
visitor who can enjoy a fish dinner will at least find he has
come to the right place for it. In the year 1460 Dermot
O'Sullivan Bere founded an abbey in the town for Francis¬
cans, but not a vestige of it now remains. Here Ireton,
the associate of Cromwell, erected a fortification, but it soon
went to decay. The ruins of the fish-curing establishments,
called fish palaces, are all that exist of the extensive fishing
trade carried on at the beginning of the present century, when
Bantry was a town of considerable importance. Now the in¬
habitants seem principally to live by their large takes of turbot,
sole, hake, herrings, or mackerel during half the year ; and
during the other half by netting the shoals of tourists, who
by this route flock to Glengarriff and Killarney. There
are three places of worship and a few other public buildings
in the town; but its chief feature is the beautiful view of
the distant hills—Mangerton and Macgillicuddy's Reeks in
the background, and nearer Hungry Hill, the Sugar Loaf,
and the long range of the Caha Mountains, said to contain
no fewer than three hundred and sixty-five lakes.
Bantry House, the seat of the Earl of Bantry, is at the
western extremity of the place; and tourists are permitted to
visit his lordship's beautiful gardens and grounds, and to
enjoy the splendid view which they afford. They command
a panorama of extreme magnificence
B AH TRY.
WATERS' RAILWAY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
fHE above Hotel will be found extremely comfortable,
and the terms strictly moderate ; Tourists will find it
to their advantage to break the journey in Ban try. as it is
within easy reach of the various places of interest, viz :—
Carriguass Castle, Gougane-Barrow, Pass Keim-an-eigh,
Donamark, Glengarriff, etc., and can be comfortably enter¬
tained at
WATERS' HOTEL,
where Cars, to visit surroundings, can be bad at shortest
notice.
TAR I F F.
Breakfast, US, 1/6, 119; Dinner, 2/-, 2/6; Tea,
plain, 1/-; Single Bed, H6; Double, 2/6.
Reduced Terms for Visitors' staying by the week or month'
A Bathing Box on Strand for Ladies.
o
HOTEL BITS ATTENDS ALL TRAINS FREE OF CHARGE.
O ——
t3T Tourist Cars run daily to and from Glengariff during the Season.
SEATS CAN BE ENGAGED AT BANTRY.
Bantry Bay.
75
Bantry Bay,
one of the chief—if not, the chief—attractions of the neigh¬
bourhood, is twenty-one miles in length and six to eight
miles wide. It affords safe anchorage for ships of the largest
tonnage. The depth of water at the entrance is about forty
fathoms, shoaling gradually towards the head of the bay;
and there are no dangerous rocks or banks within the head¬
lands. The force of the tide is scarcely sensible. Bantry
Harbour lies within Whiddy Island, opposite the town ; it is
completely land-locked, and secure from every wind. Glen-
garriff Harbour is north of this, and it, too, is sheltered by
an island; although deep, it is small, and the entrance
narrow. Ships of the largest size may ride in safety at Bere-
haven, near the entrance of the bay. The bay is one of the
most important harbours, in regard to situation, in the United
Kingdom. It has proximity to the sea, ease of access, good
anchorage, shelter, and room ; besides which, provisions and
stores may readily be obtained. Mr. Otway, referring to
Bantry, writes—" I challenge the British Empire to show
such a harbour, or such fine land or sea scenery. Up and
down on that placid water were studded isles and islets—one
crested with an ancient castle, another crowned with a
modern battery ; here a martello tower, and there the ruins
of a fishing palace; and, to finish the setting of this rich
jewel, the trees, woods, hills, and fine mansion-house of Lord
Bantry, his green and highly-dressed lawn sweeping down in
easy undulation to the very water's edge, whilst a large West
Indiaman rode safely in all the quiet repose of the secure
and land-locked anchorage."
The bay is historically interesting as having been the scene
of two separate attempts at invasion on the part of our
"natural enemies," as our allies on the other side of the
English Channel were formerly called. In 1689, a French
fleet, which brought James II. to Ireland, entered it; and soon
after, the English fleet under Admiral Herbert bore down in
pursuit. The French formed into line twenty-eight ships of
war, supported by five fire ships. After a brisk engagement,
the English, being very inferior in force, sailed out, followed
by the French vessels, which did not pursue their advantage,
but returned to the bay. In 1796, the French, with fifteen
thousand men, intended for the invasion of Ireland, put to
sea, appointing Bantry Bay as the rendezvous. Scattered by
a storm, in which one-fourth of the ships were lost, only a
remnant of the armament reached the Irish coast, and
General Hoche, thet commander-in-chief, not having arrived,
76
Bantry Bay.
the vessels which had cast anchor did not deem it prudent to
disembark their forces ; and thus, having lost an opportunity
of landing them without opposition, sailed again for France
Bantry Bay—Whiddy Island—Bandon. 77
on the 27th of January, having arrived on the 22nd. The
consternation this event produced all over the country was
intense, and Government at once erected fortifications at
Bantry to prevent a future surprise.
It was here that the crew of the "Temeraire" (the old battle¬
ship whose portrait Turner painted) mutinied; but the
spirited firmness of Admiral Eyles probably saved his own
life and the lives of his officers, He had twenty of the ring¬
leaders seized and taken to Spithead, where thirteen of them
were hung on the yard-arm.
Whiddy Island,
formerly Lord Bantry's deer-park, comprises an area of about
twelve hundred and eighteen statute acres of excellent land,
somewhat remarkable for the diversified quality of its soil.
A black shaly substance, soft and unctuous, resembling
black-lead, found on the northern side, was at one time
highly valued in the neighbourhood for its supposed medi¬
cinal qualities. There are some relics of an old church, with
a cemetery attached ; and on the eastern point of the island,
the ruins of the castle built in the reign of Henry VI. by
O'Sullivan Bere. There are three modern batteries capable
of mounting several guns. Though apparently so near, it
is almost a mile and three-quarters from Bantry.
We find a train awaiting us at the railway station ; and
are rapidly carried past Dunmanway (the junction of the
lien Valley branch, which runs to Skibbereen, on the south
coast), Ballineen, Manch Platform, and other stations to—
Bandon
[Hotels : Devonshire Arms and Railway],
a corporate and parliamentary borough, nineteen miles dis¬
tant from Cork, formerly known as Bandon Bridge, and
represented for a short time, by Lord John Russell.
Bandon was for a long time almost exclusively Protestant,
and on that account was called the Southern Derry. Indeed,
the first Earl of Cork recommended it to the royal favour
and protection on the ground that "no popish recusant, or
unconforming novelist, is admitted to live in all the town ; "
and Smith, who wrote in 1750, has left it on record that " in
the town there is not a popish inhabitant, nor will the towns¬
men suffer one to dwell in it, nor a piper to play in the place,
that being the music formerly used by the Irish in their
wars." It was enclosed by strong walls, and tradition has it
78 Bandon—Castle Bernard—Enniskeane.
that the corporation had the following couplet inscribed
over the gateway:
" Enter here, Turk, Jew, or Atheist,
Anybody, but a Papist."
The same indisputable authority further informs us that one
of the settlers of the " old faith," rather of a waggish disposi¬
tion, having taken an extra glass or two, was returning at a
late hour to the town, when he beheld the interdiction with
no little astonishment. Being somewhat of a poetical turn of
mind, he inscribed with chalk beneath it the following
repartee, a fair specimen of Bandon humour :—
'' The lad who wrote this, wrote it well,
For the same is written on the gates of hell."
The town is the centre of a large agricultural trade, and
has several extensive breweries and distilleries ; indeed, it
has long been celebrated for its whiskey. It is situated in
two parishes, and has on this account two Protestant Epis¬
copal Churches—the one, Ballymodan Church—a beautiful
Gothic structure, opened in 1849, and the other—that belong¬
ing to the parish of Kilbrogan, erected by the first Earl of
Cork in 1625. There are also Roman Catholic, Methodist,
Presbyterian, and Unitariati places of worship ; a Presenta¬
tion Conventj several schools, a courthouse, workhouse, &c.
Castle Bernard,, the princely seat of the Earl of Bandon,
is situated in the midst of a beautiful valley, planted and
laid out in the best taste, and adorned with magnificent
forest trees. The splendid conservatories, gardens, and the
demesne grounds are most kindly thrown open to the public
(Sundays excepted), and great numbers of the Cork residents
avail themselves of this permission, owing to the facility
afforded by the railway. From Bandon, the line runs
through the charming scenery in the valley of " the pleasant
Bandon, crowned by many a wood," and celebrated for its
salmon and trout fishing. We pass Innishannon and Upton,
and change carriages at Junction to visit the town of—
Kinsale
[Hotel: Khisale Arms],
which is built on the slope of Compass Hill, at the mouth of
the river Bandon, and is the terminus of one of the branches
of the Cork and Bandon Railway. It has a quaint appearance,
its houses, many of which are evidently of Spanish origin,
rising tier above tier on sites excavated out of the solid rock,
§ome of them being perched upon projecting crags. The
Kinsale.
79
streets follow the windings of the river ; and the ruins of the
old fort, which was deemed impregnable till it fell into the
hands of Marlborough in 1689, add piquancy to the outlook.
There are assembly, reading, and news rooms near the
centre of the town, besides the other edifices necessary to a
place of its size (in 1881, its inhabitants numbered 5,996);
and a very charming public walk, shaded by trees, around
Compass Hill, commands a series of good views of the
harbour, the villages of Scilly and Summercove, and the
entire neighbourhood. The only object of antiquarian
interest in the town is the Protestant Church, dedicated to,
and said to have been built by, a female saint, St. Multose,
or Multosia, in the fourteenth century. Tradition tells us
that she built it with her own fair hands, and that one day —
we quote Mrs. Hall's version of the story—" she desired to
place a large stone, too heavy for her to lift. Seeing two
men passing, one a native of the town, the other a stranger
to it, she summoned them to her aid ; the native refused to
help her, but the stranger laboured until her object was
effected. Upon which, she gave her blessing to the one,
and" (in accordance with a shocking habit the saints of the
middle ages appear to have contracted from the society in
which their lot was cast) "left her curse with the other. It
is a remarkable fact," Mrs. Hall adds, " and one that does
not depend upon the authority of tradition, that, generally,
when two inhabitants of the town marry, they will not go
through the ceremony within the walls of St. Multose, but
are 'united' at some church in the neighbourhood ; and we
were supplied with proofs in support of the legend, by
references to several unlucky couples who had been so
unwisely sceptical as to neglect the ancient warning." The
church is cruciform, with a curiously shaped tower at the
west end, the upper stage, of smaller dimensions than the
lower portion, terminating in a broach spire. The interior of
the Roman Catholic Church is richly decorated ; and there
are a Methodist Chapel, a Fisherman's Mission House, a
Carmelite Friary, and a Convent, in the town.
Kinsale now returns one member to the House of Com¬
mons ; but it was formerly a municipality, governed under
a charter of Edward III. by a "sovereign" and other officials.
It has an interesting history. We are told—but the story
wants confirmation — that the Danes met with their first
defeat on Irish soil in its neighbourhood. The Spaniards,
we know, frequently captured and held the place for longer
or shorter periods; and it took part in qll the struggles
8o
Old Head of Kinsale.
between the Saxons and the "native Irish," from the time
when Strongbow first subjected it to the English crown to
its capture by Marlborough and the extinction of the hopes
of the last of the Stuarts. For centuries, it was the most
important port on the coast, and though it has long since
"bitten the dust" before the rival claims of Queenstown, its
harbour is capacious and well sheltered, and it is still the head¬
quarters of the fast reviving and important fisheries in the
south of Ireland. The fishermen of the port are noted as
daring seamen and good pilots.
Kinsale harbour is memorable as being the port at which
the Spanish fleet arrived in 1601, bringing an army to the
assistance of the insurgent Irish, under the command of
Don Juan D'Aquila. The utmost efforts of Lord-Deputy
Mountjoy and Sir G. Carew were exerted to prevent the
juncture of the Spaniards with the approaching army of
the great northern Earl O'Neal ; but after a protracted and
desperate siege the city surrendered, war and sickness
having reduced the royal troops by at least six thousand
men. The harbour is protected by
The Old Head of Kinsale,
a bold promontory, the name of which—derived from ceann
saille, "a headland in the sea"—is singularly descriptive of
its position. Its summit is crowned by a lighthouse, which
throws its welcome ray twenty-one miles over the midnight
waters. If old tradition may be relied on, the head was
the site of a camp formed by one of the old kings of Ire¬
land ; but though there are traces of an encampment of
more than ordinary size there, it must be confessed that
the tradition rests on very doubtful foundation. In its
neighbourhood are the ruins of Courtaparteen Church and
Ringrone Castle, the latter of which was built by Milo de
Courcey, the ancestor of the present Lord Kingsale, premier
baron of Ireland. De Courcey, we are told by Hanmer in
his " Chronicle of Ireland," was selected by King John, as
his champion in a quarrel with Philip of France ; and, being
adjudged the conqueror (his rival ran away without striking
a blow), received as a reward for his gallantry the privilege
of remaining covered in the presence of his sovereign—a
privilege which was continued to his descendants, and was
enforced by the then Lord Kingsale on the occasion of the
visit of George IV. to Ireland.
Returning to Junction, we again change carriages apd
reach Cork in (he course of half an hoqr,
INNISF.ALLEN HOTEL,
J. D. SllEEHAN, Proprietor. KILLARNEY,
TOURIST, FAMILY, AND COMMERCIAL*
RECENTLY improved and enlarged ; most centrally situated midway
between Gap of Dunloe and Dinas Island ; three minute?' walk from
Railway Station. '
A POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.—Boats, Ponies, ana everything
supp'ied on shortest notice,
| COFFEE, SMOKING, AND BATH ROOM. SITTING ROOMS FFf£E.
W elite * s and Vein, les await the arrival of every Train.
LAKES OP KILLARNEY.
v fFICKRUS v K0TEL.>
! JOHN ROSS, Proprietor.
i "yiSITORS and tourists are respectfully informed that this hotel is
i situated at the foot of Mangerton, and between the Upper and Lower
S Lakes, and a minute's walk from Muckross Abbey, Tore Waterfall, &c.
j It stands in the very centre of the lake and mountain scenery (as a glance
| at the map of the lakes will show), thus securing a decided advantage over
! the other hotels, which are situated far away from most places of interest.
! It is the most economical and comfortable, and combines the best situation
j with the most moderate tariff of any first-class hotel on the lakes.
Being under the patronage of Mr. Herbert, and close to the entrance gate
of the far-famed demesne of Muckross, free access is allowed, and special
] privileges are accorded which parties staying at other hotels have to
pay for.
Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m.
Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend all Trdlns.
Please note proprietor's name, and see that the 'bus you enter bears the
inscription, "The Muckross Hotel."
JOHN ROSS. Proprietor.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
The PALACE HOTEL.
THOMAS CURTAYNE - - Proprietor.
Families, Tourists, and Travellers will find the above the most moderate in
the Lake District, and all places of interest within easy distance.
I Dinners, 2/- to 3/-
BILLIARDS. bU (Steak or Chop), 2/-
| rTain lea, if-
Carriages, Cars, Boats, & Ponies supplied at fixed Moderate Charges.
Visitors are conveyed to and from the Railway Station free of charge.
Beds, 2/-
Breakfast, i/- to 2/-
Lunch, 116 to 2/-
. Waterloo Fbacv
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London & North-Western Railway
WEST COAST AND ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.
The Express and Mail Trains of the London and North-Western Railway
Company run from LONDON, Euston Station, to all the chief towns in
SCOTLAND, THE NORTH OF ENGLAND,
IRELAND AND WALES,
INCLUDING
LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BIRMINGHAM, CHESTER,
NORTHAMPTON, LEAMINGTON, WOLVERHAMPTON,
SHREWSBURY, HEREFORD, SWANSEA HOLYHEAD,
HUDDERS FIELDS, LEEDS, EDINBURGH, GLASGOW,
PERTH, ABERDEEN, INVERNESS, DUNDEE
( London (Euston) and Birmingham under 3 hours,.
Express Services < London (Eustonl and Manchester in 4^ hours.
( London (Euston) and Liverpool in 4^ hours.
1st, 2nd, and 3rd class passengers conveyed by all trains, except the Irish Mails.
Drawing Room Carriages and Sleeping Saloons,
accompanied by an attendant,
fitted with lavatory accommodation, and provided with every modern
convenience, are run by certain express trains between
LONDON AND LIVERPOOL, LONDON AND MANCHPSTER,
AND LONDON AND EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, PERTH, Ac.
Many 0/ the First Class Carj iagcs are als0 fitted with Lavatories.
TOURISTS ARRANGEMENTS, 1887.
1st, 2ncL and 3rd Class Tcurist Tickets
are issued during the Season (May 16th to October 31st) from the
company's principal .stations, to
SCOTLAND, THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, IRELAND,
NORTH, SOUTH, AND CENTRAL WALES, MALVERN,
BUXTON. SCARBOROUGH, HARROGATE, SOUTHPORT,
BLACKPOOL, MORF.CAMBE, ISLE OF MAN, ISLE OF WIGHT,
JERSEY AND GUERNSEY.
TOURIST PROGR AMMES, with particulars 0/ circular and other
tours, and all information, may be obtained on application to Mr.
G. P. NEELE, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station, or at any oj
the company's railway Stations and parcels receiving offices.
PICNIC PARTIES. CHEAP RETURN TICKETS
will (with certain exceptions) be issued at all the principal station." to parties
of not less than SIX 1st class, or TEN and or 3rd class passengers.
desirous of making PLEASURE EXCURSIONS to
Places of Interest on the London and North-Westsrn Railway.
The tickets will be available for return the same day only.
Full particulars can be obtained at any of the company's stations.
E XOURSION TRAINS
at very low fares will run at intervals during the summer season to and
from LONDON, LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, YORKSHIRE,
CHESTER, BIRMINGHAM, SHREWSBURY, LANCASTER,
CARLISLE, and the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, and all the
principal parts of the London and North-Western system, particulars of which
will be announced about fourteen days prior to the running of the trains.
London, Euston Station, April, 1887. G. EINDLAY, General Manager.
THE CITY OF CORK.
®W2^w|0RK, the third city in population and in commercial
imPortance in Ireland, is generally considered the
capital of the south. It was originally built on an
island in the river Lee, which separates into two
parts—known as the north and south rivers—just above Cork,
and, after passing through the city, reunites and swells out
into the harbour of Oueenstown. But the place has long
since overflowed the limits of the island and now occupies
both banks of the river, which in fact divides the town into
three parts, and affords its merchants the advantages of two
waterways from which to embark their goods on the steamers
which convey them to most of the ports in the United King¬
dom, as well as to Oueenstown, where they are transhipped
into vessels and carried to every part of the globe. It is now
a noted centre of commercial activity. Its exports are various,
and embrace butter (who has not heard of Cork butter ?),
cattle, pigs, dairy produce, and all kinds of provisions ; while
the manufacture of tweed and other kinds of woollen goods,
leather, agricultural implements, flax and hemp spinning,
iron founding, brewing, distilling, and kindred trades, chemical
works, and other industries, are carried on extensively and
bring no small gain to its inhabitants. These, in 1881,
numbered 80,224 (an increase of 1,412 during the decade) ;
and if we include the portions of the suburbs which are in¬
cluded in the parliamentary borough (and we may fairly do
this), we shall find the number swollen to 104,496, nearly
four thousand more than in 1871.
The streets are spacious, but of irregular formation—a
state of things attributable to their having been originally
erected on the banks of canals and other streams, the
82
The City of Cork :
opposite sides being connected by bridges. These water¬
courses were gradually arched over, some of them in the
commencement of the present century, and the roadways
formed over them. As a reference to our plan will show,
the centre portion of the town is connected with those
parts on the banks of the Lee by six bridges (besides the
foot bridge), the chief of which are St. Patrick's and the
Parnell Bridge. The latter, formerly known as the Angle-
sea Bridge, was rebuilt in 1882, and renamed in honour
of the senior member for the city, so well known as
the leader of the Home Rule party. The former is re¬
markable as being broader than any bridge that spans the
Thames, except Westminster; it is over sixty feet within
the parapets. The bridge occupies the site of an older
structure, erected in 1798, destroyed by a flood in 1853 ; its
foundation stone was laid by the Earl of Carlisle in 1859.
At the south end of this bridge St. Patrick Street com¬
mences. This artery is lined with good shops and houses,
but their want of uniformity in height and design mars the
harmony of the whole. At the end of St. Patrick Street,
near the bridge, is a statue erected to the celebrated Father
Mathew, said to be remarkable for its likeness to " the
apostle of temperance." The Grand Parade runs from the
end of St. Patrick Street to the south branch of the Lee. It
is a fine street, even wider than the former thoroughfare.
The South Mall leads from the end of the Grand Parade to
the Parnell Bridge, and its continuation is Lapp's Quay, lead¬
ing to the Custom House. In it are to be found some of
Cork's finest buildings—among others, the local office of the
Royal Exchange Assurance Company, the figure of Minerva
surmounting which possesses considerable interest, for we
are told that it was the first production of Hogan, the Irish
sculptor. These are the only thoroughfares of sufficient inte¬
rest to merit description ; but there are some streets, adjoining
the military barracks, from which a bird's-eye view may be
had over the city, and there are crowded ones, near the
court-house and close to the cathedral, where the alfresco
customs of the poorer classes may be curiously observed on
any fine evening.
The Mardyke is a promenade extending for about a mile
close to the river, at the western extremity of the town. It
is beautifully arched overhead by the entwining branches
of the fine elm trees that grow in ranks on either side.
Thackeray tells us that in walking along it, we " pass all
sorts of delightful verdure, cheerful gardens, and broad
Its Public Buildings, &c.
83
green luscious pastures down to the beautiful river Lee. On
one side the river shines away towards the city with its
towers and purple steeples ; on the other it is broken by
little waterfalls and bounded in by blue hills, an old castle
lowering in the distance, and innumerable parks and villas
lying along the pleasant wooded banks. How beautiful the
scene is, and how rich and how happy !" It once was the
principal resort of fashion ; but, since the opening of a charm¬
ing walk along the bank of the river opposite Glanmire,
known as the Marina, its honours have been divided.
The Coal Quay is a part of the city amusing enough to
strangers, yet far too unfashionable for the respectable
citizens to take much interest in. The name seems a
misnomer, as the place is some distance from the literal
coal quay, and coal is not sold within its precincts ; but
contrariety appears reasonable here, and all have heard of
" Paddy from Cork, with his coat buttoned behind." This
quay bears a close resemblance to a Spanish bazaar, both
in the mode of selling and the variety of articles sold. It is
a large, plain building, extending in the space between two
streets, and is divided by several rows of counters, on which
are displayed a strange and miscellaneous collection of
second-hand articles—everything from a needle to an anchor
—from a flimsy cotton ball to a faded court suit. Chiefly
on Saturday evenings, the place is thronged with the
poorer classes of tradespeople ; and then, as the crowd
surges along, the excited volubility of the several vendors
becomes a study curious and amusing to the tourist. The
merchants frequently stand up on the counter, and rehearse
the questionable merits of their goods in praises replete with
choicest native wit and graced with the wildest blossoms of
southern rhetoric. And all this confusion, eloquence, and
trade is enlivened by several disciples of Homer's craft,
singing and selling a "yard and a half of ballads for one
ha'penny," and several itinerant Paganinis exhaustively
scratching the "Rakes of Mallow."
Hotels.
The Directory contains quite a long list of "houses of
entertainment;" but the hotels, in the modern sense of the
word, are not very numerous. The chief of them are : The
Imperial, at the corner of the South Mall and Pembroke
Street ; Stephen!, in Pembroke Street; the Royal Victoria,
in Patrick Street; and the Hibernian and Lloyds, in Old
George Street,
84
The City of Cork :
The Public Buildings
are as numerous as we should expect to find in a city of the
size and importance of Cork.
The Post Office is at the corner of Old George and
Pembroke Streets, the letter-boxes being in the former and
the entrance being in the latter street. There are two
deliveries of letters—at seven in the morning and at
forty minutes past two in the afternoon. Letters are de¬
spatched at various hours during the day. The box for
the day mail to Dublin, England, &c., closes at ten
minutes before twelve (noon), the letters reaching London
in time for the first delivery next morning ; while letters in¬
tended for the night mail may be posted up to twenty
minutes past nine in the evening. The day mail is not
despatched on Sundays.
The Custom House occupies the extreme point of the
island on which the chief portion of the city is built.
Queen's College, a building in the Tudor style, designed
by Sir Thomas Dean, occupies the site of Gill Abbey, at the
western end of the city—a beautiful and commanding site,
overlooking the southern branch of the Lee. The library,
the examination hall, and the lecture-rooms are elegant and
convenient apartments. The gable of the examination hall
is surmounted by a fine statue of the Queen.
The Observatory contains some fine astronomic instru¬
ments by Grubb, of Dublin, the maker of the Melbourne
reflector and more recently of the great Vienna refractor.
The Court House, in Great George's Street, is built in
the Corinthian style of architecture, showing a boldly-pro¬
jecting portico of eight columns, with an entablature and
cornice, surmounted by a pediment, on the apex of which
is a group of figures representing Law and Mercy supporting
Justice.
The city contains, among its other public edifices, three
Clubs (the County, City of Cork, and Munster) ; a Theatre
on Lavitt's Quay, capable of seating three thousand spec¬
tators ; a Museum, containing a valuable series of stones,
inscribed with Ogham characters ; public markets and ex¬
changes, a lunatic asylum, infirmary, and other charitable
institutions ; libraries, schools, &c., in abundance ; a gaol,
workhouse, and barracks ; and other institutions, mostly
located in buildings well suited for the purpose for which
they were designed. But what strikes the stranger on
entering the place—perhaps more than anything else—is the
large number of—
Its Public Buildings, &c.
DOORWAY OF THE OLD CATHEDRAL.
Places of Worship,
many of them surmounted with really handsome spires, to be
seen in every direction. The chief of these is—St. Fin Barrels
Cathedral (Protestant),
the third erected on
the present site, and
one of the finest ar¬
chitectural ornaments
in the south of Ireland.
It has recently been Jjfj
rebuilt, the only por-
tion of the old edifice
remaining being a
doorway of Pointed ar¬
chitecture, well worthy
of notice. The new
building was conse¬
crated, in an unfinished
state, by the late Bishop
Gregg, in 1870; and it
has since been com¬
pleted, mainly at the
expense of Mr. Wise, the distiller, and Mr. Crawford, the
brewer. It is a noble specimen of Gothic architecture, cruci¬
form in shape, and crowned with three lofty towers. The
bishop's palace and the diocesan library adjoin it.
St. Mary's Cathedral (Roman Catholic), erected in 1808,
stands on the site of an older structure, dating from 1729.
It is a large cruciform building, with a fine Gothic tower,
and a remarkably rich and elegant interior. Mr. Windele,
speaking of its decorations, tells us that the inside of this
church " presents one of the richest specimens of the florid
Gothic in Ireland."
St. Anne's Church, Shandon [scan dun, <cold fort" ), the
most celebrated of the ecclesiastical buildings of the city,
was built on Shandon Hill in 1722. Its steeple rises to a
height of one hundred and twenty feet. It is constructed in
storeys, decreasing in size as they ascend, and, we are told,
" very much resembling an old-fashioned pepper-box." Two
of its sides are built of limestone, and the other two of red
sandstone, a peculiarity which gave rise to the couplet—
" Party-coloured, like the people,
Red and white, stands Shandon steeple."
It is most noted for its sweet-toned bells, of which Father
86
The City of Cork.
Prout, who was buried in its churchyard, sang (in rhymes to
which the edifice is in no small degree indebted for its
celebrity) :—
and much more to the same effect.
St. Patrick's Church (Roman Catholic) is a fine building
in the Corinthian order ; its portico is most effective, both
from its own intrinsic beauty and from the excellence of its
situation. It consists of eight lofty columns, supporting a
rich entablature ; a cupola crowns the roof, which is sur¬
mounted by statues and a cross.
SS. Peter and Paul (Roman Catholic), in St. Patrick
Street, is an exceedingly handsome building, erected in rich
Gothic style, from a design by Pugin.
Holy Trinity Church (Roman Catholic), Charlotte Quay,
has a handsome "storied" window. It belongs tothe Capuchin
convent, of which Father Mathew was superior.
The Ttinity Presbyteria7i Church, Summer Hill, is a
Decorated edifice, with a tower and spire, 140 feet high, a
prominent feature in the vista of the town, on account of the
commanding position it occupies.
The Cemetery, formerly the Botanic Gardens, is laid out
with exquisite taste, something in the manner of Pere la
Chaise. Father Mathew, the celebrated apostle of temper¬
ance, lies in his last resting-place here; and among the
many interesting tombs the cemetery contains, is one embel¬
lished with a masterpiece by Hogan, the well-known sculptor,
who was a native of the city.
With deep affection,
And recollection,
I often think of
I've heard bells chiming
Full many a clime in,
Tolling sublime in
Those Shandon bells,
Whose sounds so wild would,
In the days of childhood,
Fling round my cradle
Cathedral shrine,
While at a glibe rate
Brass tongues would vibrate:
But all their music
Their magic spells.
Spoke nought like thine ; "
BLARNEY CASTLE,
BLARNEY CASTLE AND STONE.
O tourist should leave the neighbourhood of Cork
without paying a visit to Blarney Castle—or, to be
correct, the one tower which is left of it—and (if
he have nerve enough for the ordeal) kissing the
celebrated Blarney Stone, for—
" Like a magnate its influence such is,
Attraction it gives all it touches ;
If you kiss it, they say, from that blessed day,
You may kiss whom you plase, wid your blarney."
88
Blarney Castle.
Father Prout (Francis Mahony) treats of the subject at
length, in his " Plea for Pilgrimages," and in the course of
a narrative of his interview with Scott, assigns to the stone
a fabulous Carthaginian origin; and he appends to it a version
of the " Groves of Blarney," in English, French, and Latin,
the humour of which is quite as charming as the spot he sings.
Blarney may be visited by railway ; but as the station is
nearly two miles distant from the castle, most tourists prefer
driving the entire five miles from . Cork, and enjoying the
scenery which Thackeray describes as " magnificently beau¬
tiful," a verdict with which no one will disagree. We re¬
commend our friends to take an outside car, and request the
driver to proceed along the north road, past the Lunatic
Asylum, and on their return to order coachee to drive along
the road which passes Inniscarra Bridge, and which affords
some pleasant scenery along the banks of the Lee.
Blarney
itself is a small village of (1881) 513 inhabitants, containing
nothing to attract attention. Indeed, if it were not for the
celebrity of the castle, and for the marvellous powers attri¬
buted to the Blarney stone, the name would not be known
fifty miles from Cork. The road crosses the river Blarney
at the entrance to the village by a bridge of three arches ;
and at the other extremity we find a homely and comfortable
hotel, at which we leave our horse and car, while visiting—
The Castle,
which stands on an isolated limestone rock, at the junction
of the Blarney and Comane rivers. It is the third edifice
which has occupied the site. The first, a hunting lodge,
belonging to Dermot MacCarthy, king of Desmond or South
Munster, gave place to a more substantial structure, built in
the early part of the thirteenth century ; and it in its turn
was succeeded by the present one, erected in 1446 by the
celebrated Cormack MacCarthy, surnamed Laidir, " the
strong." It was considered the most secure of all the castles
in Munster ; and sustained several sieges, during the two
centuries of warfare through which it flourished. Cromwell,
Ireton, and Fairfax bent their artillery against the castle
and " made a breach in its battlement," still pointed out to
visitors ; and after the battle of the Boyne, the army of King
William besieged and took it, demolishing the fortifications,
and razing to the ground the entire structure, except the
donjon tower. This is a hundred and twenty feet high, and
Blarney Castle,
89
the view from its top is very fine, extending over a rich
and well-planted country, undulating and intersected by the
rivers Blarney, Comane, and Shournagh. To the north-east
rise the Boggra Mountains ; and to the south, about half a
mile from the castle, lies a pretty lake,
" Well stored with fishes,
And comely eels in the verdant mud;
Besides good leeches, and groves of beeches
All ranged in order to guard the flood."
To it, many startling traditions are attached. One is to the
effect that at irregular intervals two white cows rise out of it,
and play havoc with the meadows and cornfields in the
neighbourhood ; and another, related by Crofton Croker,
tells us that once in seven years a " certain great gentle¬
man " comes out of its depths and takes a walk along the
banks of the lake, in the hope of meeting some one who will
have the courage to address him, and thus break the charm
which binds him in his subaqueous prison—a hope which,
thus far, has been disappointed. Let us hope he will meet
with better success next time he " visits the shades of the
moon."
The lake, too, is said to hold in its depths the treasures of the
Earl of Clancarthy, some of whose retainers, on the storming
of the castle, escaped with it and threw it into the water.
The place where it is concealed is only known, we are
told, to three of the MacCarthies, who each, when dying,
reveal it to another of the family, thus perpetuating the secret
until the title be again restored, and a MacCarthy be once
more the owner and lord of Blarney.
The identity of the Blarney Stone has been the subject of
hot debate ; but it is now generally agreed that it is in the
outer wall of the castle, about twenty feet below the battle¬
ment at the northern angle. It bore an inscription, now
illegible, recording the date of the erection of the castle :
" Cor mack MacCarthy fortis me Jiere fecit, a.d. 1446." To
kiss it, it was necessary that a friend should hold the feet of
the aspirant to eloquence, whilst he went head foremost over
the wall. As few cared to run such a risk, whilst so many
" pilgrims " returned, teeming with sweet, silvery, exquisite,
and omnipotent persuasive qualifications, it was natural to
conclude that every stone in the tower had equal potency ;
and so, for the convenience of visitors, one has been kindly
removed and placed in the lawn before the castle. We are
told that the noted G. V. Brooks owed no small portion of
his histrionic success to his visit to the spot; that he was
Killarney. 7
go
Blarney Castle.
lowered in the orthodox manner and kissed the stone, and
while "inverted" "spouted" some lines from Shakespeare.
It is said that one of his shoes came off while he was in the
midst of his recitation ; but that, nothing daunted, he finished
it before suffering himself to be drawn to the top of the castle ;
and his case is pointed to by its advocates as conclusive
evidence of the power of " the stone "—
" A clever spouter, he's sure to turn out, or
An out-and-outer, to be let alone !
Don't hope to hinder him, or to bewilder him ;
Sure he's a pilgrim from the Blarney Stone."
The origin of the tradition has puzzled many ; but Crofton
Croker traces it—and writers since his day adopt his view—
to the conduct of Cormack MacDermot Carthy, who, having
come to an agreement with Lord President Carew, in 1602,
to deliver up,the fortress to the English, put off the fulfilment
of his promise from day to day, "with soft promises and
delusive delays," until at last Carew became the laughing¬
stock of Elizabeth's ministers, and " Blarney talk'' obtained
its present meaning—that of talk which is more " delhuder-
ing," than honest and truthful.
The Groves of Blarney, which surround the castle, are as
attractive as ever. They are even yet—
" Decked by posies that spontaneous grow there,
Planted in order, in the rocky nooks."
The " gravel walks," " for recreation and meditation," are
still there ; but the—
" Statues gracing this noble place in—
All heathen gods, and nymphs so fair ;
Bold Neptune, Csesar, and Nebuchadnezzar,
All naked standing in the open air,"'
have long since fallen under the hammer of the " cruel
auctioneer," and been removed elsewhere. Beneath the
castle are some extensive caves, " where no daylight enters,
but cats and badgers are ever bred." One of them was
converted into a prison; and though Mahony tells us that
" mossed by nature makes it completer than a coach and six
or a downy bed," we fancy that the poor wretches confined
there did not find it so. The massive rings and bolts to
which they were chained still remain ; and the place, though
interesting to many, wears an air of gloom and misery which
make one glad to regain the bright sunshine, and the " flowers
that scent the sweet open air."
Si. Anne's Hydropathic Establishment'. ' go'a
• Leaving the castle, it is usual for tourists to visit—
St. Anne's Hill Hydropathic Establishment,
the birth-place of the improved Turkish bath, in western
Europe. It was founded in the year 1843 by the late Dr.
Barter, who erected luxurious baths in connection with a
magnificent boarding establishment. Under his care, and
influenced'by his particular rules of regimen, patients ac¬
quired health and strength with such marvellous celerity
that the.house became very noted and was resorted to even
by foreigners of distinction and wealth. It is most pic¬
turesquely situated on rising ground, surrounded by wooded
hills and valleys, amongst which are an infinite variety of
delightful walks ; while the river Shournagh, tumbling along
its rugged bed, affords all the pleasing effect which water
produces in a wooded landscape. The pleasure grounds are
laid out in the most charming manner ; an exquisite min¬
gling of fragrant flowers, delightful groves, and sweet shrubs,
conservatories, bowers, grottoes, fountains, streamlets, and
statuary.
Yet the celebrated Turkish bath will most engage the
visitor's attention ; and if he tries it, he will return to Cork
invigorated and freshened, with spirits so light and buoyant
that he will fain believe that the true qualities of " the
Blarney " are imbibed from the shampooing process.
jh? a natoriu m
AND
Hydropathic Establishment,
ST. ANNE'S HILL, CORK.
MILITARY DEP6T ON ROCKY ISLAND,
QUEENSTOWN AND ITS HARBOUR,
AND OTHER PLACES IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.
VERY pleasant day's trip may be made to the south
and east of Cork, visiting Queenstown, Cloyne,
Castle Mary, &c. ; and returning home from the
Mogeely station on the Cork and Youghal Rail¬
way. There are three routes to Queenstown, each of which
will enable the tourist to note the chief features of " the
noble sea avenue to Cork ;" and as its numerous attractive
objects greet his eye, and he observes how the hand of taste
has everywhere been employed to assist nature, he will feel
the force of the remark of an Eastern traveller, " A few
minarets placed in its hanging gardens would realize the
Bosphorus." The three routes are :—(i) That by the direct
railway, practically a continuation of the main line of the
92
The Lee—Blackrock.
Great Southern and Western system, although most of the
trains start from the Summerhill station (the express trains
between Queenstown and Dublin run into the Glanmire
station) ; (2) that by the Cork and Passage line, steamboats
plying from the latter place to Queenstown ; and (3) that by
the boats of the Citizens River Steamships Company, which
ply five times daily (each way) between St. Patrick's Quay
and Aghada and Crosshaven ; and they complete the return
voyage eight times every Sunday. We will adopt the latter
route, starting at nine o'clock, so as to have a long day
before us for the enjoyment of our pleasant voyage on the
bosom of—
" The spreadinge Lee, that, like an island fayre,
Encloseth Corke, with his divided floode ; "
and for our visit to the interesting spots near its mouth.
As we sail down the river, we are struck with the beauty of
the scenery. Picturesque villages and stately mansions,
pretty cottages, old castles, and church spires, embowered
in the freshest foliage, line the banks. The river gradually
widens, and at—
Blackrock
presents a truly noble appearance. On the promontory
there is a Castle, originally built by Lord Deputy Mountjoy,
in 1604, as part of the defences of Cork ; and rebuilt by the
Cork Harbour Commissioners, in 1839, when it was furnished
with two lights for the guidance of vessels. The tower is
upward of a hundred feet high, and the castle itself is a con¬
spicuous object in the landscape. The promontory on
which it stands is to the north of Lough Mahon and the
entrance to the Douglas, which here contributes its tiny
stream to the Lee ; it gives its name to a small village
near its mouth. It was at Blackrock that William Penn
embarked for America, after his conversion to Quakerism at
Cork, where he had listened to the preaching of Thomas
Loe. The Ursuline Convent here, founded in 1825 by Miss
Honora Nagle, whose portrait adorns the boardroom, is
one of the largest in the kingdom. The education of the
daughters of the Catholic nobility and gentry is conducted
by the nuns on a large scale, and there is also a school for
the children of the poor attached to the convent.
Nearly opposite Blackrock Castle, the Glanmire river,
which runs from the uplands through a beautiful glen,
empties itself into the Lee under a drawbridge of cast
iron; and as we proceed we pass Little Island, Fota
Passage—Glenbr'ook.
93
Island (brilliant with the sheen of evergreens and forest
trees), and Great Island (on which Oueenstown is built).
But before reaching the pier at that town, we see—
Passage
[Hotels: American, Imperial, &c.],
on the opposite shore of the estuary. Of this place, known
as West Passage, to distinguish it from a village of the same
name near Waterford, Father Prout sings :—
1 The town of Passage
Is both large and spacious,
And situated
Upon the say.
'Tis nate and dacent,
And quite adjacent
To come from Cork
On a summer's day.
There you may slip in
To take a dippin'
Forenent the shippin'
That at anchor ride.
Or in a wherry ~
Come o'er the ferry
To Carrigaloe,
On the other side.
' Mud cabins swarm in
This place so charmin',
With sailors' garments
Hung out to dry;
And each abode is
Snug and commodious,
With pigs melodious
In their straw-built stye.
It's there the turf is,
And lots of murphies
Dead sprats and herrings
And oyster shells ;
Nor any lack, O,
Of good tobacco,v
Though what is smuggled
By far excels ; "
and so on. This " large and spacious " town, which in 188 r
had a population of 2,440, consists of a principal street about
a mile long, with smaller ones diverging from it. It is
resorted somewhat extensively to during the summer months
for its bathing, and contains some extensive dockyards,
the entrance to which is wide enough to admit vessels of the
largest size; while the facts of its being the terminus of
the railway and possessing a ferry gives to Queenstown an
air of business and bustle which would not otherwise attach
to the place. It was the birth-place of Barry, the painter.
Half a mile further on, is the rising watering-place of—
Glenbrook
[Hotel : Royal Victoria],
where is situated the clubhouse of the Cork Harbour Rowing
Club, and where there are some commodious baths. The
place is on the high road (which runs parallel with the river
through the Giants' Stairs, a mass of rocks which rise to a
great height in a series of ledges) to—
94 Monkstown—Queenstown.
Monkstown
[Hotels : Imperial and Seaside],
a watering-place about half a mile further south. Believed
to have derived its name from a colony of Benedictine monks,
who founded Legan Abbey (of which no traces remain) in
the fourteenth century, the place contains the ruins of an
Elizabethan fortified residence, Monkstown Castle, used as
barracks in the early part of the present century. It is said
that it was built in 1636 byAnastatia Goold, the wife of John
Archdeken, both of whom were interred in their family vault
in the burial ground of the ruined church of Temple-en-Bryn,
which adjoins the castle. The Chtirch, an Early English
ivy-grown structure on a picturesque elevation, is interesting
from the tradition that it was the first Protestant place of
worship erected in the neighbourhood after the Reformation.
Leaving Hawlbowline, Spike, and Rocky Islands (on the
latter of which is the government depot for gunpowder) on
our right, we land at the jetty at—
Queenstown
[Hotels : Queen's, Beach, European, Moore's, Robinson"1 s, Rob Roy,
Globe, &c.].
The present name was bestowed on the place, formerly
known as the Cove of Cork> by Queen Victoria to commemo¬
rate the fact that she landed there, on the occasion of her
visit to Ireland in 1849. Its situation is remarkably fine ; it
stands on the steep slope of a hill, up the side of which, its
streets are built, one above another, like the parallel courses
of some great amphitheatre. Interspersed with trees and
gardens, and with a sky brilliantly blue and a balmy frag¬
rance in its mild air, it has an aspect that delights us like
the beauties of cities of the Grecian Archipelago. The
harbour is not only finer than any in Great Britain ; it is
one of the noblest in Europe. The largest ships may lie at
all states of the tide within less than a cable's length of the
shore. There is space in it for the entire British navy ; and
it has the further advantages of being easily entered from
the ocean and of affording shelter from every wind. The
view over Hawlbowline, Rocky, and Spike Islands extends
to the harbour's mouth, showing its forts and lighthouses,
the numerous ships at anchor or under sail, the magnificent
ironclads, the frequent arrival of transatlantic steamers, with
the bustle of anxious visitors, the constant departure of
crowded emigrant vessels, and the continual passing to and
Queenstown.
95
fro of small steamers, yachts, pleasure-boats, and fishing
craft. " It is," says P. D. Hardy, " worth taking a journey
to Cork to see it ; and it may be made a question whether
even Killarney, with all its lakes, mountains, woods, and
waterfalls, is calculated to fill the mind with nobler or
sublimer thoughts or loftier images than the scenery of
land and river, as you proceed to the harbour from the
city."
Queenstown, with all its advantages of situation, contains
but few public edifices. Indeed, if we except its market
house, hotels, and places of worship—the largest of which is
a beautiful Roman Catholic Cathedral—the only buildings of
any note are the two Yacht Club Houses, those of the Royal
Cork Yacht Club andthe Royal Western of Ireland Yacht Club.
The former is on the Columbine Quay, and is a very com¬
modious and comfortable structure. The club is the oldest
of the kind in the United Kingdom. Founded in 1720, it
was at first known as the Cork Water Club, and is thus
noticed in a " Tour through Ireland by Two English Gentle¬
men," published in 1742 :—UA set of wealthy gentlemen,
who have formed themselves into a body which they call the
Water Club, proceed a few leagues out to sea once a year in
a number of little vessels, which for painting and gilding
exceed the king's yacht at Greenwich and Deptford. The
admiral, who is elected annually and hoists his flagon board
his little vessel, leads the van and receives the honour of the
flag. The rest of the fleet fall in their proper stations and
keep their line in the same manner as the king's ships. The
fleet is attended by a prodigious number of boats, which,
with their colours flying, drums beating, and trumpets
sounding, forms one of the most agreeable and splendid
sights your lordships can conceive." In 1828, the club
changed its name to that of the " Cork Yacht Club," and
received permission to adopt the prefix " Royal," on being
taken under the patronage of William IV. in the following
year. The ceremony of going to sea still takes place, and
the regatta of the club is one of the gayest events of the kind
in Ireland. For the information of our nautical friends, we
may add that its burgee is a harp and crown on a green field
in the centre ; and that that of the Royal Western of Ireland
is blue, with a royal crown surrounded by shamrocks.
The salubrity of Queenstown is one of its most remarkable
features. According to the tables of temperature collected by
Dr. Scott, it possesses the mildest and most equable climate
of any place in the United Kingdom; it is, therefore, a
g6 Queenstown—Cloyne.
special resort of invalids in winter. In 1881, it had a popula¬
tion of 9,755.
The relics of antiquity in the vicinity are the remains of
Belvelly Castle, built by the Hodnets, and the ruins of
Temple-robin and Clonmel Churches. In the latter are in¬
terred Tobin, the author of several dramatic pieces, the best
now known of which is the Honeymoon, and the Rev. C.
Wolf, who is still remembered as the writer of the ballad on
the death of General Sir John Moore, commencing with the
line, " Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note."
The island on which Oueenstovvn is built extends five miles
from east to west, and two from north to south. It is one of
the first places mentioned in Irish history. It maintained its
independence even after the English had possession of Cork
and the surrounding country. But we find that, in 1329, it
was the property of Lord Philip Hodnet, who resided at
Clonmel. The Barries and Roches, however, united, and
laying siege to his castle, took it and put all his adherents to
the sword. The Barries having thus obtained possession,
called it Barrymore Island. In 1666 the Earl of Orrery
describes it "as very fertile, and a place of such consequence
as, were I an enemy about to invade Ireland, it would be
the first place I should endeavour to secure."
The steamer, on leaving the pier at Queenstown, proceeds
direct to that at Aghada, a small village on the mainland,
immediately to the south ; and here we disembark, in order to
visit the old cathedral town of—
Cloyne,
where there is, in a good state of preservation, one of those
pillar towers so peculiarly characteristic of the scenery and
antiquities of Ireland. This Round Tower was originally
ninety-two feet in height, and, like others of its class, had a
conical roof. Being fitted up with lofts and used as a belfry,
the metal attracted lightning, which rent the roof and tore
away the upper portion of the wall. It has been repaired,
and a battlement placed round the top ; this increases the
height to one hundred and two feet. The door is placed
eleven and a half feet from the ground, and the interior is
divided into six lofts ; it is quite cylindrical from top to
bottom, and of an uniform diameter of nine feet. The walls
are thirty-three inches thick ; the stones of which it is built
were brought from some distant quarry, although there are
plenty of limestone quarries in the neighbourhood, and it is
erected on a limestone rock. The origin and use of those
Cloyne—-Casttemary—Rostetlan. gj
towers is one of the questions which have perplexed anti¬
quarians; and, notwithstanding all the ingenious hypotheses
which they have advanced, their history and office are yet an
unsolved riddle.
The present Cathedral is supposed to have been erected
in the fourteenth century, on the site of an older structure,
believed to- have been built by St. Colman, who died in
604. It is a large cruciform edifice, but has lost some of its
original character from being repeatedly repaired and altered.
The aisles are divided from the nave by Gothic arches, and
the edifice contains tombs of the Thomonds, Longuevilles,
and Fosters. The round tower is near its west door. An
abbey was built near the original cathedral in 707, and a
CROMLECH AT CASTLEMARY.
hospital m 1320 ; but both these structures have entirely dis¬
appeared.
There are some extensive caves in the immediate neigh¬
bourhood, and at Castlemary, about a mile from the cathedral,
is an interesting cromlech, supposed to have been a Druids'
altar, the large stone of which is fifteen feet in length and
eight in breadth. Rostellan, between two and three miles
to the west, the ancient seat of the Fitzgeralds, was bestowed
by Charles II. on Lord Inchiquin. The castle, long the
residence of the Marquess of Thomond, is a stately man¬
sion, near the margin of the sea. The demesne forms a
beautiful little peninsula, much resorted to by pic-nic parties
from Cork and its suburbs. Among its attractions are a
98
CastlemartyV.
holy well, concerning the virtues of which marvellous stories
are told, and the large caverns in the limestone rocks, with
numerous stalactites, depending from their roofs.
Between four and five miles to the north-east of Cloyne,
is—
Castlemartyr,
formerly a parliamentary borough, but now a market town
containing about five thousand inhabitants. It contains the
seat of the Earl of Shannon, which stands in a beautiful park,
and is approached by a magnificent avenue of elm trees,
quite a mile long. In the park are the ruins of the old
churches of Ballyoitghtera and Cahirultan and of the Imokilly
Castle, an ancient seat of the Fitzgeralds, of old very im¬
portant, as commanding the road between Cork and Youghal.
It was dismantled by the troops of William III., after the
surrender of Limerick in 1691. In the year 1767, Richard
Alfred Millikin was born here. He was a poet and a literate
of no small eminence in his day ; but the visitor may be
most interested to know that he was author of the well-
known song, " The Groves of Blarney."
Leaving Cloyne, we make our way to the Mogeely
station on the Cork and Youghal line, distant about a mile
and a half; and are quickly carried back to the terminus at
Summerhill.
THE BLACKWATER,
YOUGHAL AND THE BLACKWATER.
MONGST the many interesting trips which the
tourist can conveniently take from Cork, is a visit
to Youghal, twenty-seven miles distant, with which
town there is direct railway communication. This
trip will afford him an opportunity of visiting one of the most
noted and excellent watering-places in the south, of viewing
the picturesque and beautiful Blackwater, the " Rhine of
Ireland," and of returning via Lismore and Mallow.
Leaving the terminus at Summerhill, we retrace the route
we took on our return from Queenstown and Cloyne, in our
last excursion. From Dunkettle, the third station on the
line, we have an opportunity of visiting Glamnire, a pretty
village containing 221 inhabitants, and pleasantly seated
near the head of the beautiful glen, through which the
stream of the same name makes its way to the sea, as
already noticed (see Index). On the hill in the neigh¬
bourhood is a picturesque tower, commemorative of Father
Mathew, the " apostle of temperance."
Carrigtohill
(carrig-toille, "carved rock"), about nine miles from Cork, is
an uninteresting village, adjoining which are some crumbs of
ioo Carrigtohill—Midleton, &c.
ruins of a Franciscan abbey and a number of subterranean
chambers, discovered in 1835. The keep of Cloyditbh Castle,
the ancient seat of the Barrymore family, is in the parish.
The castle was built early in the thirteenth century by Philip
de Barry, who received the contiguous lands from his uncle
Fitz-Stephen. It was a formidable place in 1580, when
Captain, afterwards Sir Walter, Raleigh received instruc¬
tions to seize it ; but this Lord Barry prevented by setting
the castle on fire.
Midleton,
the next station, is nearly thirteen miles from Cork and
about the same distance from Youghal. The town, which con¬
sists mainly of one long street, is a cheerful little place with
a population of 2,930. It is a military centre, but derives its
chief importance from its extensive distillery and flour mills;
and it stands on the Aiichora, a stream well stocked with
salmon and trout, and navigable up to Ballinacurra, a mile
below the town. There is some very pretty scenery in the
neighbourhood. Midleton was formerly an important cor¬
porate town, its charter, granted by Charles II. in 1670,
giving it the privilege of dual representation in the Irish
Parliament. An interesting feature in its modern history is
the fact that Curran, the celebrated orator and statesman,
received his education at the College, endowed by Lady
Elizabeth Villiers (subsequently Countess of Orkney) in 1709 ;
and close to the distillery is the spot where Sir Walter Raleigh,
in the reign of Elizabeth, held the ford single-handed against
Fitzgerald and his army till his own troops came up. Pass¬
ing the station at Mogeely, at which we " caught our train "
on our return home from Oueenstown, we reach that at—
Killeagh ("grey church"), which affords access to Aghadoe,
a seat of the Brookes, not more remarkable for its beautiful
surroundings than from the fact that it has remained in the
same family since 1272. In that year, Philip de Capell, the
ancestor of the present baronet, received a grant of " the
maiden estate," as the peasantry call it, in recognition of the
fact that it has never been forfeited during all the chances
and changes of six centuries of unsettled Irish life.
Youghal
[Hotels: Devcnshire Arms, Green Park, Imperial, Strand, &c.],
pronounced Yawl ("yew wood"), is a parliamentary borough
Avith a population (1881) of 5,396, situated near the mouth
of the Blackwater, which here attains an average breadth
Youghal.
101
of half a mile, and forms a spacious harbour, in which ships
of considerable tonnage may ride with safety, and which
would be much more useful were it not for the sand bar across
its mouth. Near this is a round tower, traditionally said
to be an old lighthouse, and re¬
ferred to by Le Gouz, in his
" Tour in Ireland," in 1644, as
"formerly part of a convent of
nuns, of which there remains a
tower, called the Nunnery, upon
which they used to light torches
to enable vessels to come into
harbour during the night."
About a mile and a half above
the town, the river is crossed
by a splendid iron bridge from
the foundry of the Stockton
Forge Company. It was built
from x 881 to 1883 by a subscrip¬
tion, aided by a Government
grant; and has a swivel opening,
fifty feet wide, so as not to impede
the navigation of the river.
Youghal is built on a slope, at
the base of a steep hill, and some of the cross lanes and
narrow alleys are filled with rough steps and coarsely paved
inclines. Near the top of the hill there is a sequestered
walk, from which a charming view of the town and the
country around may be enjoyed ; and the visitor will be
struck with the generally antiquated appearance of the
place. This aspect is heightened when he descends through
one of the ladder-like lanes to the main street, and finds it
divided by a lofty square building, known as the Clockgate,
and is pierced by a wide arch, and contains the town clock
and a bell.
Turning from the main street (in which are some excellent
shops) towards the hill, the visitor arrives at the extensive
Cemetery, laid out, with much appreciation of the silent
eloquence of a most ancient graveyard, into winding paths,
gloomy as cloisters and deep with the shadows of clustering
trees. The beautiful Clmrch of Saint Mary will next engage
the tourist's attention. The east window is very fine ; it is
one of the best proportioned and most elaborately wrought
specimens in Ireland. The church has a venerable appear¬
ance, but a conspicuous incongruity. A square tower at one
OLD TOWER AT YOUGHAL.
102 Yonghal.
side, at once attracts the visitor's attention ; and the explana¬
tion given is that one of the Anglo-Norman knights com¬
menced building a castle here, but in consequence of the
disobedience of his eldest son, relinquished his intention
and changed his half-built fortress into a monastery. The
interior contains several interesting monuments.
Much as there is in this old church to engage the atten¬
tion, and suggestive as it is to wander amongst the graves of
warriors and Anglo-Norman settlers, there is yet a place of
MYRTLE GROVE.
greater interest in the immediate vicinity—Myrtle Grove, the
house once occupied by the illustrious Sir Walter Raleigh,
who was mayor of Youghal in 1588 and 1589. This is yet in
a state of excellent preservation, and probably very little
changed since he lived in it. Built in the Elizabethan style,
and considered a fine specimen of that order, it is small, but
eminently comfortable. In the quaint old-fashioned garden,
the first potatoes introduced into Ireland were planted. It
is said that the apples which grew on the stalk were at first
Youghat—Ardmore. 103
collected; but when cooked were found so disagreeable to
the taste that the plant was considered useless, until, on the
ground being dug up to receive some other crop, the roots
were discovered increased fifty-fold. From those few tubers
were propagated the boundless wealth of potatoes with which
the fertile soil of Ireland teems. Tradition tells us that the
proprietor of Myrtle Grove reclined one summer evening
in his favourite arbour, which is still pointed out, lazily in¬
dulging in that passion for tobacco which he had acquired in
America. He smoked away, supinely beguiled by sweetest
fancy, whilst his Irish cook went to fetch a bucket of water
from the well. Passing the bower on her return, she saw
with amazement and horror thick smoke issuing from Sir
Walter's mouth and nose, and only pausing to convince her¬
self that it was not " Old Nick," she dashed the water into
his face, screaming to the domestics to haste and help to
extinguish the master.
There are some extensive ecclesiastical buildings in
Youghal, convents and monasteries, with their large schools.
The Roman Catholic Chtirch is spacious and surmounted
with a lofty steeple—a remarkable and most pleasing object
seen from the harbour. The Presentation Convent, on the
main road from the railway station, is a beautiful Gothic
edifice, a gable of which is surmounted by a statue of the
Virgin its chapel is quite a gem. The town is much resorted
to in summer by bathers ; the strand is good, and the walks
along the shores to Cable Island and on toward Ballycotton
Bay afford many delightful views. Several pretty lodges have
been built for the accommodation of visitors ; and although,
as a business town, Youghal has a decayed look, yet as a
watering-place it wears a cheerful and prosperous appearance.
The readiness with which half-hardy and tender flowers and
shrubs luxuriate in the open air is a proof of the salubrity of
the climate.
Before leaving Youghal, it would be well to make a short
excursion over the bridge across the Blackwater, to—
Ardmore,
in Waterford, famous as we have seen for its connection with
St. Declan, one of the predecessors of St. Patrick. Ardmore
is nine miles from Youghal. There is here an interesting
group of ruins, consisting of a round tower, a holy well, and
the remains of a cathedral, church, and oratory. They are all
more or less connected with the saint, who began his mis¬
sionary work in the year 402. The oratory is believed to
KiLlaritcy. 8
104
The Bhzcli'wciwr.
have been the rude hut he inhabited in the early part of his
career ; and the well, said to have been that at which he
quenched his thirst, and baptized his first converts to Chris¬
tianity, was, even in modern times, believed to be endowed
with healing virtues. The building by which it is sur¬
mounted stands on a rock, overhanging the sea, miracu¬
lously floated thither, we are told, from Rome for the saint's
convenience ; and near it is a stone, under which devotees
formerly crawled on the "pattern day" by way of penance.
The cathedral and church contain some remarkable sculp¬
tures ; and the round tower is almost perfect, though its
conical cap Tras been thrown a little out of position by
lightning. There was formerly a powerful and opulent
monastery at Ardmore, which in 1881 contained 401 - in¬
habitants.
Returning to Youghal, we make our way to the wharf,
and secure our places on board the little steamer, which
plies to Cappoquin twice a day, affording us a two hours' de¬
lightful voyage, through the lovely scenery on the banks of—
The Blackwater.
After passing the bridge the river banks rise on either side
to a considerable height, beautifully variegated with groves,
corn-fields, cottages, and meadows. The steamer glides past
the picturesque ruins of Temple Michael Church and Castle j
and the contiguous relics of the Abbey of Molanfide, where
Strongbow's companion-in-arms, Raymond le Gros, lies
buried. The fine modern mansion of Ballinatray next
comes into sight; then the river widens out into a lake, and
we have a composite prospect of hills, meadows, and moun¬
tains, and lake and river extremely beautiful. Strancally
Castle rises over the deepest part of the river, and its ivied
ruins, blending with the mossy rocks, assume a peculiarly
venerable and pleasing appearance. The magnificent Gothic
castle of New Strancally is seen embowered in extensive
woods, above which rise its lofty towers and spreading
battlements. Further on, and also overlooking the river, is
Dromana Castle, environed with beautiful plantations. Here
was born that Countess of Desmond, so celebrated for
longevity, who lived 140 years, and whose active vitality
was only then crushed by a fall from a cherry tree. Tourin
Castle lies on the left bank, whilst on the right we behold
the massive mountains of Knockmeledown, and we can dis¬
tinguish the Abbey of La Trappe on Mount Melleray. From
Camphire to—
Cappoquin—Lismord.
Cappoquin
[Hotel : Morriseys],
the views surpass in grandeur all that the traveller has
previously admired. As we approach, Cappoquin possesses
a most imposing aspect from the river ; it has a noble
bridge and a few other good buildings, and contained 1,550
inhabitants in 1881. It is a place of considerable antiquity,
and was at one time the site of a castle of the Fitzgeralds,
the date of the foundation of which is unknown. It is now
chiefly resorted to by the tourist for the sake of visiting—
. Mount Melleray Abbey, about three miles from the town,
a walk thither affording one- an opportunity of enjoying a
ramble over a wild heath-clad mountain. It appears to be
one of the rules of the place to exhibit hospitality, and the
visitor will find the inmates—at least, such of them as are
appointed to receive strangers—eminently kind and courteous.
They will show him over their abbey, and certainly, although
themselves so abstemious, will not allow him to return fasting.
There is not much to be seen. The dormitory of the com¬
munity is cold and damp ; their various apartments seemingly
inconvenient and frigidly plain. Their church is pretty ; yet
this and the entire establishment is more remarkable for size
than for beauty or regularity of design. The monks, with a
few necessary exceptions, maintain perpetual silence. They
work and pray incessantly; they live exclusively on vegetables,
disdaining all stimulants, even tea, and sleep only five hours
at night. The abbey was founded here as recently as 1830 ;
and there are extensive schools in connection with it.
At Cappoquin is a station on the line of railway which
connects Waterford with—
Lismore
[Hotels : Blackwater Vale, Devonshire Arms, &c.],
a cathedral city with a population of 1,860 (the bishopric is
now united with that of Waterford). The railway follows
the line of the road on the south bank of the Blackwater
(which turns almost at right angles at Cappoquin), concerning
which road Thackeray gossips so pleasantly. "Nothing," he
says, " can be more magnificent than the drive along from
Cappoquin to Lismore. Parks and rocks covered with the
grandest foliage ; rich, handsome seats of gentlemen, in the
midst of fair lawns and beautiful bright plantations and
shrubberies. The river and banks as fine as the Rhine; the
to6 Lismore and its Castle.
castle not as large, but as noble and picturesque as that of
Warwick."
The city was of old named Dun-squinne from an old
fortification a little to the east, now known as the Round
Hill. St. Carthagh fled for shelter to this fortress, when
he was driven by Blathmar from Rathenin, in 631 ; and
here he founded a monastery from which the present name
of the place (literally, "a great house") was derived. A
university was attached to this monastery ; and it became a
noted seat of learning, to which, amongst the four thousand
kLISMORE CASTLE AND BRIDGE.
students who thronged its halls, it is said that Alfred the
Great came. The town was plundered by the Danes six times
between 812 and 915, and suffered severely from confla¬
grations ; it was the place at which the chiefs, archbishops,
and bishops of Munster swore allegiance to Henry II. The
Cathedral is a handsome structure, of Later English archi¬
tecture, with a square tower and elegant spire, which forms
a conspicuous object in the landscape; and there are
Catholic and Presbyterian Churches and a Presentation Con¬
vent in the town. But the principal objects of interest are
the stone Bridge, over the Blackwater, built by the late
Duke of Devonshire; and—
Lismore Castle—Fermoy, &c. 107
Lismore Castle,
built, it is supposed, by King John, on the site of the old
monastery. It was, at first, the residence of the bishops,
and subsequently became the property of Sir W. Raleigh,
from whom it was purchased by the first Earl of Cork, and
descended by marriage to the Duke of Devonshire. The chief
portion of the castle is of great antiquity ; but much restora¬
tion has been effected, and considerable additional building
added, either for ornamental effect or requisite accommo¬
dation. Many of the most important manuscripts, relating
to ancient Irish history, ecclesiastic and civil, are preserved
in the library. Amongst them is the charter of incor¬
poration which King John granted to Youghal in the year
1209. The stately grandeur of this fine pile, to which
free access is granted to tourists, the extent of its build¬
ings and the rich and studied irregularity of its noble towers
are best seen from a piece of waste land which divides the
stream just below the bridge. Both castle and bridge are
built of stone, whose brightness of tint affords the happiest
relief to the dark evergreens and verdant ivy that cling
around the beetling rocks, or spring from their frequent
fissures ; whilst beneath, the river repeats all this perfection.
Leaving Lismore by rail, we first reach the station at
Tallozv Road, which affords access to the pretty market
town of Tallow, seated on the Bride, a tributary of the
Blackwater; near the place are the ruins of Lisfimiy Castle,
at one time a stronghold of the Desmonds. Passing Bally-
dtiff and Clondulane, we cross the Blackwater by a magnifi¬
cent iron bridge ; and then stop at—
Fermoy
[Hotels : Royal, Bridge, Commercial, &c.],
believed to owe its origin to the Cistercian Abbey of Our
Lady de Castro Dei, built in 1170. As it commanded an
important ferry over the river, it speedily became an impor¬
tant military centre, and has been the scene of many stirring
events. The small English garrison were threatened by a
strong force of the Irish under James II. in 1690, and we are
told had recourse to a stratagem to insure their safety.
They blew trumpets in such a manner as to cause the enemy
to believe that large reinforcements were advancing to their
aid ; and so frightened their assailants that they beat a
timely retreat. It is now a brisk, stirring, lively business
town, containing extensive military barracks, two large
colleges and other educational establishments, with the
lo8 Castle Hide—Castletownroche, c&c.
public buildings generally to be found in a place of its size ;
in 1881, its population numbered 6,454. The Protestant
Episcopal Church is an elegant structure, erected in 1802,
with a square tower, and a spire added in 1850. It contains
two beautiful memorial windows in memory of Sir Robert
Abercomby and Sir G. S. Abercomby. There are also a
large and- handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral, of hewn
sandstone, several convents, and other places of worship in
the place. Within five minutes' walk of the barracks gate is
a large field, used as the parade ground for the troops, in
which races take place from time to time. The river, which
is crossed by a bridge of seven arches, opened in 1865,
affords some of the best salmon fishing in Ireland, and there
are some excellent trout streams in the neighbourhood ; and
the chalybeate spring at Corrin, a mile and a half distant,
and the sulphurous and chalybeate wells at Grange were
formerly in repute. The latter are near Castle Hide, to the
east of the town, where a modern residence adjoins the
remains of the famous old fortress, on a site, environed with
choice woods, and enlivened by the meandering Blackwater.
There are interesting ruins of several other castles in the
neighbourhood ; and a few miles to the north those of Kil-
colman Castle (see Index), the residence of the poet Spenser,
where he composed his " Faery Queen."
Alighting at the next station, Ballyhooley, five miles from
Fermoy, we have an opportunity of seeing the fine mansion
and splendid demesne of the Earl of Listowel. At the entrance
gate, on an abrupt hill over the Blackwater, are the pic¬
turesque ruins of Convamore Castle, clad with a garb of ivy
from base to battlement, and fitted up and internally restored
to its ancient appearance; it is therefore extremely interesting
to the antiquarian. Further on, ten miles from Fermoy, is
Castletownroche, where are the ruins of a fortress, once the
seat of the Lords of Fermoy, built on a rock overlooking the
Awbeg River. The castle is memorable for its gallant
defence against the army of Cromwell, the garrison being
commanded by Lady Roche. Three miles or so further we
reach Mallow {see Index),the Brighton of Ireland; and then
turning south travel by the main line of the Great Southern
and Western Railway to the "beautiful citie" once more.
[It may be interesting to our friends to know that the railway com¬
pany issue circular tickets for the tour available for six days, with
permission to break the journey at Youghal, Lismore, Fermoy, Mallow,
and Blarney. The cost of these tickets are: First class, 10s. ; second
class, 8s.]
GOUGAUNE-BARRA LAKE.
CORK TO GLENGARRIFF AND KILLARNEY,
BY THE MACROOM ROUTE.
chose, on our journey from Killarney to Cork, the
IpWwSS P°Pu^ar an^ expeditious route, with which the name
of the Prince of Wales has been associated, since
his Royal Highness travelled by it, in 1858. We
will now return thither by one of the two alternative routes, the
attractions of which are such as to render it well worth under¬
taking. Leaving Cork by the Cork and Macroom Railway,
a ride of twenty-four miles up the fertile valley of the Lee
will conduct us into the heart of the mountains which lie on
the boundary between the counties of Cork and Kerry.
Arrived at Macroom, we find that quite a number of good
roads radiate in all directions. One runs almost due north
to Millstreet, where there is a station on the Dublin and
Killarney Railway ; a second goes south to Dunmanway, on
the Cork and Bandon line ; a third proceeds direct, through
the mountains to Killarney ; and a fourth—that which we
shall adopt in the following pages — conducts us to Glen-
garriff, through the valleys of the Lee and of the Owvanne
rivers, Lough Allua, and the Pass of Ivimaneigh.
no Kilcrea Abbey and Castle.
Leaving the Capwell station at Cork, and obtaining a
passing peep at the cemetery and glimpses of other parts of
the city, as we proceed, we have a run of nearly seven miles
to Ballincollig ("the town of the wild boar"), with its
barracks and gunpowder works. The square tower, which
forms so conspicuous an object in the landscape, is part of
the ruins of an old castle, built in the reign of Edward III.
The road from Ballincollig to the west passes through the
hamlet of Ovens (a corruption of St. Owen, the patron saint
of the parish), where there are some noted caves in the
limestone rock. About two miles after leaving the Killum-
ney station, we obtain a passing view of the ruins of—
KILCREA ABBEY AND CASTLE.
Kilcrea Abbey and Castle,
which afforded one another mutual protection in the "good
old times," of which we have heard so much. They were
both built in the year 1465, by Cormac, Lord of Muskerry,
on the bank of the Bride, and are approached by a long and
narrow bridge; and the venerable ruins, with their square
towers and the foliage by which they are surrounded, pre¬
sent a most picturesque appearance. The remains of the
abbey are extensive. Until some years past, the entrance
at each side was flanked by a wall built of human skulls,
thigh bones, arm bones, ribs, &c. At present, it is used as
a burying-place, the country people valuing it highly for that
purpose.
Macroom.
hi
Near Kilcrea station, which we next reach, is a bog in
which the last Irish.wolf is said to have been killed; and
a mile further on are the ruins of Castlcmore ("the great
castle"), built by the MacSwineys in the fifteenth century.
Close to Crookstown station,is the Castle of Clogh-dha ("the
stone building of David"), restored and used as a fishing
station by the Earl of Bandon. Warretis Court, with its
three lakes, described as a miniature Killarney, is a favourite
summer resort of the citizens of Cork. Crossing the Lee,
near the station at Dooniskey, we soon reach the terminus of
the railway at—
Macroom
[Hotels: Mountain View Railway, Victoria, &c.],
a town of three thousand inhabitants, the name of which is
variously translated as "the plain of the croom". (oak) and
" the crooked oak," from the large forest of oak trees which
at one time grew here. It is pleasantly seated on the banks
of the Lee, near the spot at which it receives the waters of
the Sullane and Foherish, and its praises were, so far back
as 1774, thus sung by John Connolly, a patriotic native of
the town :—
"Whoever means to shake off gloom,
Let him repair to sweet Macroom,
For here his cares he will entomb,
And think no more of sorrow.
There are numerous old castles in the neighbourhood.
Among them is Macroom Castle, a residence of the Earl of
Bantry, said to have been built in the reign of King John.
This antique structure is altogether devoid of architectural
interest, but its strange-looking tower, rising over the
smooth Sullane, which flows below, is a very pretty sight.
The variegated ivy which covers it is well kept, and is sup¬
posed to be the most beautiful specimen of Irish ivy in exis¬
tence. Admiral Sir William Penn, the father of the founder
of Pennsylvania, was born here. Carrigadroid Castle,
standing on a rock in the middle of the Lee, is the subject
of a romantic story. " A poor peasant," says Mrs. Hall,
" lame and hump-backed, fell in love with the fair daughter
of his chieftain, and pined in despair at the hopeless nature
of his attachment. Wandering by the river-side, he sud¬
denly heard the click-click of the Leprechaun's (see Index)
hammer, seized the tiny brogue-maker, and compelled him
to reveal the secret of the whereabouts of his treasure store.
The little being not only endowed him with riches, but
Let Mallow yield to gay Macroom,
For here we know not care nor gloom
Here nature wears perpetual bloom,
And quite dispels our sorrow."
112
Carrigadroid Castle.
changed his awkward and ungainly form to one of manly
grace ; and the lovely Maija was readily wooed and easily
won by a stranger rich enough to build for her a noble
mansion and to place the wealth of the earth at her feet."
The fortress for a time defied the efforts of Cromwell's army,
and was only won by stratagem. The besiegers obtained
a number of trunks of trees, and, yoking oxen to them, pre¬
tended that they were cannon which they were about to bend
against the place. The garrison upon this entered into
treaty with the English and capitulated on honourable
terms ; and Cromwell erected the bridges connecting the
castle with the opposite banks of the stream, from which
the present name ("rock of the bridge") is derived.
CARRIGADROID CASTLE.
The direct road to Killarney traces the upward course of the
Sullane river, to the Derrynasaggart Mountains, among which
it has its source. Crossing these hills, the road descends
gradually to the town. Carrigaphoca Castle, some two or three
miles from Macroom, is perched on the top of an isolated
and very steep rock ; and must, in the time when it was
erected, have been a very strong fortress, as even now it is a
matter of some difficulty to scale the steep on which it stands.
Its name means "rock of the pooka," a malignant fairy, who,
according to the native Irish tradition, usually assumes the
form of a horse, but occasionally those of other animals,
Gougaune-Barra Lough. 113
and often that of an eagle. As a horse, it is his chief delight
to delude unwary mortals to mount on his back, and then to
carry them o'er crag and fen, up steep mountain sides and
down precipices, and leave them, worn out and terrified, in
some inaccessible spot, miles away from their homes. Gold-
ing describes him as "that same pouk, with goatish body,
lion's head and breast, and dragon's tail ; " and he seems to
be a variation of the English puck, a frolicsome, merry
being, of whom Shakespeare sings as " neighing in likeness
of a filly foal," and Drayton, as " but a dreaming dolt, still
walking like a ragged colt."
We might linger for a long time at Macroom and enjoy
many pleasant excursions in the neighbourhood ; but we
must press on, as we have yet some twenty-five to thirty
miles before us. We find our car waiting us at the station ;
and have a choice of two routes through the wild and
romantic country between Macroom and Glengarriff. Both
of them skirt the beautiful Lough Allua. The one, which
leaves Macroom by Brogue Makers Street, and runs along
the south bank of river and lake, is the most level road, but
is not so picturesque as the other ; it conducts us past the
tower of Castle Masters (or, to give it its Irish name, Carry-
nacurra), of old a stronghold of the O'Learys, which occupies
a finely escarped cliff, rising over the river. The north road,
which we choose to-day, leaves the town by Wisp Lane
(Boher-na-Sap). We see the fragment that is still left of
Dundareiske Castle, in its day a noted fortress of the Mac
Carthys ; and stop at the hotel at Inchigeela for refreshment.
The Lee now widens out so as to form Lough Allua, along
the northern shore of which we drive for three miles ; and
then we reach the hamlet of Ballingearig, the last assemblage
of houses we shall meet with till we pull up at Glengarriff
to-night. The river has now dwindled down to a narrow
stream ; and we are only a few miles from its reservoir—
Gougaune-Barra Lough.
This lake lies in a sequestered spot, surrounded by an
amphitheatre of majestic mountains. It occupies an area of
about two hundred and fifty acres, and is environed on all
save the eastern side by mountains of the steepest and most
desolate aspect. The dark shadows of these great over¬
hanging cliffs are reflected in the glassy surface of the deep
waters. The lake itself is dark and lustrous as a polished
slab of black marble, and the gloomy grandeur of the
crowding cliffs are only relieved by the streams that flash
ii4
Gougaune-Barret Lough.
down their furrows like trembling silver strings. These
streams unite to form the Lee, and the lake is considered
its source, although its spring proper is on the side of
Nadanuiller, a steep and all but inaccessible mountain at
its western extremity. After heavy rains, the whole enclo¬
sure becomes a perfect chaos, the water from the top of the
mountains tumbling all round in cataracts, with a roaring
noise like thunder, forming altogether a most awful and
majestic scene.
Almost midway on the lake is a small wooded island, joined
to the mainland by a rude artificial causeway, and this was
the chosen solitude where in early Christian ages Saint Fin
Barre established his hermitage. The ruins on the island
consist of the remains of the church, the walls of an adjoining
convent, and the rectangular court or cloister. About this
enclosure are eight small circular cells, in which penitents
were accustomed to spend the night in prayer and mortifica¬
tion. What impresses the visitor much, in the appearance
of those ruins, is their small dimensions. The chapel walls
are only about four feet in height; those of the convent are
about the same elevation. The length of the chapel is about
thirty-six feet, and its width fourteen ; so that, when roofed,
it must have been, with its convent, extremely low and incon¬
venient. Mr. Windele says, " Man elsewhere loves to con¬
tend with and emulate nature, and the greatness and majesty
of her works ; but here, as if struck by the sublimity of sur¬
rounding objects and ashamed of his own real littleness, the
founder of this desecrated shrine constructed it on a scale
peculiarly pigmy and diminutive." This retreat is even yet
resorted to by devotees, who believe that in the waters of its
" blessed well" is a specific for their bodily ailments ; and
some years ago it was annually the scene of what was called
a "pattern"—a kind of religious jubilee, somewhat analogous
to the camp-meetings of certain persuasions still held in
America. There are some gnarled and weird-looking old
trees on the island ; and the tourist will find the London
Pride growing freely amongst the ruins.
An exquisite description of Gougaune-Barra is given to us
by J. J. Callanan, a native of Cork, which is only equalled
in the freshness and force of its language by its truth to
nature :—■
" There is a green island in lone Gougaune-Barra,
Where Allua of song rushes forth as an arrow ;
In deep vallied Desmond a thousand wild fountains
Come down to that lake from their home in the mountains,
Pass of Kimaneigh.
115
There grows the wild ash, and a time-stricken willow
Looks chidingly down on the mirth of the billow,
As, like some gay child, that sad monitor scorning,
It lightly laughs back to the laugh of the morning.
And its zone of dark hills—oh ! to see them all brightening,
When the tempest flings out its red banner of lightning,
And the waters rush down 'mid the thunder's deep rattle,
Like the clans, from their hills at the voice of the battle ;
And brightly the fire-crested billows are gleaming,
And wildly from Mullagh the eagles are screaming.
Oh ! where is the dwelling in valley or highland,
So meet for a bard as this lone little island ? "
KIMANEIGH FASS.
To visit Gougaune-Barra, we have made a detourj and we
now retrace our steps, so as to follow the main road, through
the magnificent and justly celebrated
Pass of Kimaneigh
("the path of the leaping deer"), a deep cleft, separating two
vast hills, which rise on either side almost perpendicularly.
Holly, arbutus, ivy, yew, and several evergreen plants, be¬
sides a great variety of wild flowers, grow in the fissures of
the cliffs, and all seem to thrive in the richest luxuriance.
II-6 Pass of Kimaneigh.
The mountain appears to have been torn asunder by some
great convulsion of nature ; and the minute correspondence
and similarity of the strata on each side is beautifully
apparent in some parts of the pass. In driving through it,
we enjoy to the fullest the astonishing grandeur of the
Priest's Leap Mountains. The pass extends for a mile, and
is barely wide enough for the narrow road and rugged
water channel it contains. It is best seen after rain, when
the torrent foams beside the path.
As we make our way through the pass, our driver points
out the spot where, in 1798, a party of rebels annihilated a
small detachment of English troops, by hurling huge stones
on them from the rocks above. Our companion stream is
one of the feeders of the Owvanne river, the course of which
we follow to the head of Bantry Bay, passing on our way
the Castle of Carriganass ("the rock of the waterfall"), for¬
merly belonging to the O'Sullivans, still in good repair, all
the woodwork being of massive teak. When entered, the
formidable hall, twenty-one feet high, bears the appearance
of a prison cell, but on the once secret doors to the various
departments being opened, many traces present themselves
of the luxury these little kings rolled in. Leaving the
O'Sullivans for a time, we rise over the hills of Ardnagashel,
from which, for three miles of the road, we sca.n the whole
of the bay, the splendid mansion of the Earl ofTBantry, the
islands of Whiddy and Bere, Dunboy Castle, Rohencorrig
Lighthouse; and lastly, lying under the Caha range, the
great object of our day's journey, Glengarriff, bursts on us.
Leaving, as we are, the most rugged of hills, and entering a
deep, dense, and naturally wooded Alpine valley of surpassing
loveliness, reposing amidst the richest gifts of nature, one is
inclined to say, with Anthony Trollope, the celebrated Irish
author, on his first visit to the glen, " Oh ! what a little
heaven ! " We join the road from Bantry to Glengarriff
about three and a half miles from the former place; and
driving along the head of the bay, soon reach our com¬
fortable hotel, tired, but gratified with our day's excursion.
We -spend a few pleasant days in Glengarriff; and then
leave by the car for Killarney, following the route sketched
in our last chapter.
* WHITBY*
ES.®™E jS3M§N
AND
** GROUNDS. &■
TjljFHESE fashionable and charming grounds, constructed in the
form of terraces, &c., on the cliff side, and commanding
unequalled views of Whitby Bay, the Piers, Harbour Mouth, the
Ruins of St. Hilda's Abbey, and the romantic sea coast, are open
during the summer season and form one of the most delightful
seaside lounges in the kingdom.
A ©FBI® ©2© BAM®
-Nt PERFORMS TWICE DAILY ON THE PROMENADE. *-<-
4THE THEATRE »
is open occasionally, and the most eminent Dramatic, Operatic,
and Concert companies appear in succession during the season.
THERE ARE
fljVID BILLED ^00Ji;S 4*
in the Saloon, and a well supplied READING ROOM.
There are 16 Splendid LAWN TENNIS COURTS (Grass
and Asphalte) in connection with the Grounds.
(F^RIFF:—JSIjSGIrB ^DJilljSjSIOJS, 4d.; Dfl¥ TICKET, 6d.
FAMILY AND PERIODICAL TICKETS ON MODERATE TERMS.
General Manager HY. WALKER.
WEST CLIFF SALOON AND GROUNDS
WHITBY.
[See back.
To face hid ex.]
I NDEX.
A.
Agada, 96
Aghadoe, 49-51
Archaeological remains, 3
Ardnagashel, 116
Atlantic cables,, the, 64, 65
B.
Ballincollig, 110
Ballingearig, 113
Ballyhooley, 108
Bandon, 77-8
Bantry, 74 ; Bay, 75-7
Berehaven, 72-3
Blackrock, 92
Black Valley, 55
Blarney Castle, 87-90; Stone, 89 ;
Groves, 90
Boats, 23
Brandon Mountain, 64
Bray Head, 63
Brickeen Bridge and Island, 29
Buttevant, 17-8
C.
Cahirciveen, 62-3
Carhan, 63
Carran Tual, Ascent of, 37-40
Carrigadroid Castle, 111-2
Carriganass Castle, 1x6
Cartigaphoca Castle, 112-3
Cars, inside, outside, and covered, 7-8
Castle Hide, 108
Castlemore, tn
Castletown, 73
Castletownroche, 108
Celbridge, 9
Climate, 3
Clogh-dha Castle, 111
Convamore Castle, x08
Cork, 81-6 ; County, 1
Cromwell's Bridge, 72
Curragh of Kildare, 10
D.
Day's Tours, List of, 25
Derrycunnihy Cascade, 31 ; Rock, 31
Derrynane, 65 ; Abbey, 65
Devil's Bit Mountains, 14 ; Punch
Bowl, 34-6
Dingle Bay, 64
Dinish Island, 29-30, 58
Distances, 24
Douglas, 92
Dunboy Castle, 73
Doulus Head, 63
Dunamarc Falls, 74
Dundareiske Castle, 113
Dunkerron, 66
Dunloe Castle, 51 ; Gap of, 51-4
Dunmore Head, 64
jl naex.
118
E.
Eagles' Nest, 56-7
Early inhabitants, 2
Emly, 16
F.
Ferriter's Castle, 63, 64
Fishing, 23
Flora, 4
G.
Gap of Dunloe, 51-4
Glanmire, 92, 99
Glena Bay, 48-9
Glenbrook, 93
Glenflesk, 59-60
Glengarriff, 69-72, 116
Gougaune-Barra Lough, 113-4
Great Blasquet, 64
Great Island, 93, 96
Guides, 23
H.
Hag's Glen, Teeth, Chair, and
Crutch, 38-9
Hill of Allen, 9-10
Holy Cross Abbey, 14
Horse's Glen, 36-7
I.
Inchigeela, 113
Innisfallen, 43-4 ; Abbey, 44-5
K.
Kanturk, 20
Kenmare, 68 ; Demesne, 60-1 ; Es¬
tuary, 65-6
Kerry, County, 2
Killarney Town, 21-2 ; Lakes, 24
Kilcolman Castle, 18, 108
Kilcrea Abbey and Castle, no
Kildare, 10-11
Kilmallock, 17
Kimaneigh Pass, 115-6
Kinsale, 78-80 ; Old Head of, 80
Knightstown, 63
Knocklong, 16
L.
Leprechauns, 39-40
Logan Stone, 54
Long Range, 24, 56-8
Lough Allua, 113-5
Lough Garr, 17
Lough Gouragh and Callee, 39
Lough Kittane, 60
Lower Lake, The, 24, 40-9
M.
Macroom, 111-3
Hallow, 18-20, 108
Mangerton, Ascent of, 33-7
Maryborough, 12-3
Middle Lake, 24, 58-9
Millstreet, 20
Monastereven, 11
Monkstown, 94
Mountmellick, 12
Muckross, 26-7: Abbey, 26-9 ; De¬
mesne, 29
Mulgrave Police Barracks, 31
O.
Old Weir Bridge, 57-8
O'Sullivan's Cascade, 45-8
Ovens, no
P.
" Paddy Blake," 43
Passage, 93
Portarlington, 11-2
Q-
Queenstoyvn, 94-6
R.
Rock of Cashel, 15-16
Ross Castle, 42, 61; Island, 41 3
Rossmore, 66
Routes to Killarney, 5-6
S.
St. Annf,'s Hill, 90a
Sneem, 66
Spenser and the " Faery Queen,' 18
Staigue Fort, 65-6
T.
Templeriore, 13-4
Thurles, 14
Tore Cascade, 32-3
Tunnel, the, connecting the Ross and
Muckross Demesnes, 30-1
U.
Upper Lake, the, 24, 55-6
V,
Valentia Island, 63-4
W.
Warren's Court, iii
Whiddy Island, 77
White Deer, 30
WARD, LOCK, & CO.'S
GUIDE BOOK ADVERTISER.
1887.
For Terms, 6-v., apply Mr. HENRY S. THOMAS,
Advertising Manager.
Warwick House, Salisbury Square, Fleet Street,
London, E.C. 1
EVER
SOLD IN ENGLAND BEFORE ATTHE PRICE.
gARBER_& COMPANY'S
RICH SIRUPY
" This Season's Growth'5
PER POUND.
A TEA abounding in Strength and High Quality.
COMPARE it with that sold by others at Two Shillings.
2k lbs. sent Free, per Parcels Post, for 4s. 3d.;
4k lbs. 7s. 6d.; 6k lbs. 10s. 9d.; 10k lbs. 17s. 3d.;
to any post town in the United Kingdom and
Channel Islands.
BARBER & COMPANY,
274, Regent Circus, Oxford Street, W.
Manchester, Birmingham, Brighton, Hastings,
Bristol, Preston, and Liverpool.
Postal Orders from 1/6 to 10/6 can now be obtained for One Penny, at all
Post OJfces. Bankers: Bank of England, London and County, London,
and Westminster, and National Provincial Batik of England.
Series
2
Guide Hook Ad-vertiser.
HAND-IN-HAND
Fire and Life Insurance Society,
26, N ew Bridge St., Blackfriars, London, E.C.
Instituted in 1696. Extended to Life Insurance, 1836.
The Oldest Insurance Office in the World.
The only Mutual Office in the Kingdom for both Fire and Life.
There being no Shareholders, all Profits are divided amongst the
Insured.
BONUS RETURNS.
LIFE.—ist Series ... ... 75) p
2nd Series (according to the age of the Policy) 70 to 75 f
3rd Series do. _ do. 50 rising to 60 j ,npe
4th Series, after ist Five Years, to commence at 45/
FIRE (with certain ex-ceptions).—Annual Policies, 20 per cent, at the end
of each 5th year. Septennial Policies, varying with the nature of
the risk, 25 to 50 per cent, at the end of each 7th year.
No Policyholder is subject to any PERSONAL LIABILITY.
The Directors are willing to appoint, as Agents, persons of
good position and character.
The ACCOUNTS and STATEMENTS, as deposited with the Board of
Trade, as well as Prospectuses and Forms of Proposal, may be had of any
of the Society's Agents, or on application at the Head Office.
BENJAMIN BLENKINSOP, Secretary.
GOLD MEDAL
' (highest award), inventions exhibition, 1885.
KIRKMAN & SON
(Established 1730),
S & 9, SOHO SQUARE, W.,
manufacturers of high-class
CRAND AND UPRIGHT
>:r PIANOFORTES. ~>
These Pianos are manufactured in accordance with the most recent
principles of construction, viz:—
Iron and Steel Frames.
Full Trichord Scaling.
Best Repetition Check Actions.
Their pure tone and lasting qualities render them especially
suitable for the Colonies and India.
Cases, of novel and elegant design, in Burr, Walnut, Rose¬
wood, Mahogany, and to special order in other woods.
Prices are moderate, either for Cash or on the Three-Years' System.
Guide Book Advertiser.
3
FIRE 1! BURGLARS!!
JOHN TANN'S
"ANCHOR RELIANCE"
SAFES
For Jewellery, Plate, Deeds, Books, &c.
STRONG ROOM DOORS.
BULLION AND PLATE ROOMS
FOR BANKS AND MANSIONS.
PRICE LISTS FREE.
Cash, Deed &. Dispatch Boxes.
Copying Presses, all kinds of
Locks, &c.
IMITATION "TANN'S"
SAFES.
CAUTION.
Every Safe made by
John Tann bears a fac¬
simile of the accompany¬
ing Registered Trade
Mark, also the address,
11, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON, E.C.
25 in. FIRE RESISTING SAFE, £5 5s. CARRIAGE PAID.
4
Guide Book Advertiser.
RHEUMATISM ! RHEUMATISM!
CLARKE'S
Never-Failing Indian Lotion.
Sufferers from Rheumatism and Lumbago will find
in Clarke's Never-Failing Indian Lotion an effectual
and Certain Cure.
It gives instant relief, and several applications, in
most cases, are sufficient to completely banish the pain.
Multitudes have proved its worth, many of whom
had almost abandoned hope. In some very extreme
cases the results have been absolutely marvellous.
Mr. Thomas Nelson, Sandhead, Wigtownshire,
writes:—" I could scarcely move with my back and loin when I
applied Clarke s Indian Lotion. The first rubbing was effectual.
I was better the very next day."
Mr. Matthew Lytle, Magherafelt, Co. Londonderry,
writes:—" I suffered so much from rheumatism in my leg that
I had to use a crutch, but before I had used one bottle of Clarke s
Indian Lotion I was entirely relieved from the lameness as well
as the pain I
Mr. William Boyd, Craignure, Old Cumnock, N.B.,
writes: — " / suffered from acute rheumatism for over ten years,
and found no relief until I applied Clarke's Indian Lotion.
By the use of two bottles L was perfectly cured!
PREPARED ONLY BY
JOHN CLARKE & CO., Limited, BELFAST,
And sold by all respectable Chemists, in bottles, 1/1% and 2/3 each.
IMPORTANT NOTICE.—Purchasers should
see that they are supplied with CLARKE'S
NEVER-FAILING INDIAN LOTION, as worth¬
less substitutes are being sold by some unscru¬
pulous traders.
Guide Book Advertiser.
5
W. H. SMITH & SON'S
REDUCED ORDNANCE MAPS
Of the Principal Districts of England and Wales,
FOR TRAVELLERS AND TOURISTS.
" These splendid Maps, unquestionably the most perfect ever published, have been
compiled from the Ordnance and Admiralty Surveys, with Railways up to the latest date.
Their particulars are most minute and accurate ; and every possible information that a
map can give is afforded,"—Liverpool Albion. ■
Price One Shilling; each. Full Coloured, Cloth Case.
Aldershot and Environs.
,, Camp and Environs.
(Scale 2 inches to a mile.)
Bedford and Environs.
Birmingham and Environs.
,, Plan of the Town.
Brighton and Sussex Coast.
,, Plan of the Town.
Bristol and Environs.
British Isles, Railway Map of.
,, on linen, 2s.
Buxton and Matlock District.
,, Plan of Town & Neighbour-
Cambridge and Environs. [hood.
Carlisle and Environs.
Carmarthen and South-West
Wales.
Cheshire, County.
Cornwall.
Derby and Environs.
Devon, North.
,, South, and Dartmoor.
Dorsetshire, County.
Eastbourne, Plan of.
England and Wales, Railway
Map.
Essex, County.
Exeter and Environs.
Gloucester and Environs.
Hampshire, County.
Hastings and St. Leonard's,
Plans of.
Hereford and Environs.
Hertford and Environs.
Ipswich and Environs.
Isle of Wight, i inch to a mile.
Kent, Watering Places.
Lake District of Westmoreland
and Cumberland.
Llandudno and Snowdon District.
Do. Ulverston and Furness
District. Scale, i inch to a mile.
Do. Keswick, &c.
Do. Environs of Grange, &c.
Lancashire, County.
Land's End and Cornwall.
Leicester and Environs.
Lincoln and Environs.
Liverpool and Environs.
,, Plan of the City. ,
Leeds and Environs.
London, Plan of, is. on Paper ; on
Linen, 2S.
London and Environs. Scale, 4
miles to an inch.
London, Environs of. Scale 1 in.
to a mile. Do. on Linen, 2s.
London and Environs. Railway
Station Map.
Manchester and Environs.
,, Plan of the City.
Newcastle and Environs.
Northumberland, Ceunty.
Newport, Monmouth, &c.
Norwich and Environs.
Nottingham and Environs.
Oxford and Environs.
Peterborough and Environs.
Plymouth and Environs.
,, Plan of the Town.
Preston and Environs.
Rugby and Environs.
Salisbury and Isle of Wight.
Scarborough and Yorkshire Coast.
Scotland, Tourists' Map.
,, ,, on Linen, 2S.
Shrewsbury and Environs.
Somersetshire.
Suffolk, County.
Thames, The River.
Tun bridge and Environs,
Wales, N orth.
„ Central.
„ South-West.
,, South-East.
Windermere, Coniston, Grasmere,
and Vicinity. Scale 1 inch to mile.
Yorkshire, County Map.
London : W. H. SMITH & SON, 186, Strand.
And at the JRaihvay Bookstalls.
6
Guide Book Advertiser.
GOLD MEDALS—DUBLIN, 1882; BOSTON, 1883 ;
LONDON (International Exhibition), 1884.
SIR JAMES MURRAY'S
Pure Fluid Magnesia.
The original article, as prepared by the Inventor,
Sir James Murray, M.D.
For over sixty years in use as an excellent remedy
in cases of Acidity, Indigestion, Heartburn, Gravel,
and Gout.
Sold by all Respectable Chemists, in Large-sized Bottles (is.
size containing nearly Double the quantity usually sold at that
price), at Is., 2s. 6d., and 3s. 6d. each.
CAUTION.—Observe that the signature of the Inventor is on
rorj/ label.
SIR JAMES MURRAY'S
FLUID CAMPHOR
Is a valuable remedy in cases of Sleeplessness and
Weak Nerves.
Bottles, Is. and 2s. each.
SIR JAMES MURRAY & SON,
CHEMICAL WORKS,
GRAHAM'S COURT, TEMPLE STREET, DUBLIN.
BARCLAY & SONS, 95, Farringdon Street,
London.
Guide Book Advertiser.
7
DR. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S
CHLORODY
THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY GENUINE.
CHLORODYNE
is admitted by the Profession to be
the most wonderful and valuable
remedy ever discovered,
is the best remedy known for
Coughs, Consumption, Bronchitis,
Asthma.
effectually checks and arrests those
too often fatal diseases—Diph¬
theria, Fever, Croup, Ague,
acts like a charm in Diarrhoea, and
is the only specific in Cholera and
Dysentery.
effectually cuts short all attacks of
Epilepsy, Hysteria, Palpitation,
and Spasms.
is the only palliative in Neuralgia,
Rheumatism, Gout, Cancer,Tooth¬
ache, Meningitis, &c.
From Dr. B. J. boulton and Co., Horncastle.
We have made pretty extensive use of Chlorodyne in our practice lately, and look
upon it as an excellent direct Sedative and Anti-spasmodic. It seems to allay pain and
irritation in whatever organ, and from whatever cause. It induces a feeling of comfort
and quietude not obtainable by any other remedy, and it seems to possess this great
advantage ever ail other Sedatives, that it leaves no unpleasant after-effects.
"Earl Russell communicated to the College of Physicians that he received a dispatch
from Her Majesty's Consul at Manilla, to the effect that Cholera has been raging fear¬
fully, and that the only remedy of any service was CHLORODYNE."—SLancet,
ist December, 1864.
CAUTION.-BEWARE of PIRACY and IMITATIONS.
Caution.—Vice-Chancellor Sir W. Page Wood stated that Dr. J. Collis
Browne was, undoubtedly, the Inventor of CHLORODYNE ; that the
story of the Defendant, Freeman, was deliberately untrue, which, he
regretted to say, had been sworn to.—Times, 13th July, 1864.
Sold in Bottles at is. rid., 2s. 9d. and 4s. 6d. each. None is genuine
without the words "Dr. J. COLLIS BROWNE'S CHLORODYNE" on
the Goverment Stamp. Overwhelming Medical Testimony accompanies
each bottle.
Sole Manufacturer:—
J. T. DAVENPORT,
33, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, London.
8
Guide Book Advertiser.
GEORGE SPENCER,
manufacturer of
GYMNASTIC APPARATUS
To H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and the School Board
for London, &c.,
52, GOSWELL ROAD, LONDON, E.C.
THE NURSERY GYMNASIUM,
comprising—
A Horizontal Bar (iron core, for children), Trapeze Bar, Hand Rings, Sitting
Swing ; easily fitted in a few minutes, either in a room or out-doors. When
the above fittings are removed, the frame forms an Iron Core Horizontal
Bar for Adults.
Price complete, £3 3s. Od.
PRICE LISTS FREE ON APPLICATION TO ABOVE ADDRESS.
FENNINGS' EVERY MOTHER'S BOOK sent post free on application
by letter or post card. Direct to Alfred Fennings,West Cowes, I.W.
coughs, colds, bronchitis,
q FENNINQS'
" LUNG HEALERSg
the best remedy to _
3 cure all j
O Coughs,Colds,Asthmas,&o. |_
Sold in Boxes at is. iid. and m
W 2S. 9d., with directions. Sent
r™ post free for 15 stamps. Direct
l~ to A. Fennings, West Cowes,
— I.W,
X The largest size Boxes,2S-9d. ^
Q (35 stamps post free) contains .
three times the quantity of the "■
Z small boxes. ^
O Head FENNINGS' (ft
^ EVERYBODY SDOCTOR.
*T Sent post free, 13 stamps.
OA Direct A. Fennings, West
Cowes, I.W.
Do not let your Child Die I
Fennings' Childretfs Powders
Prevent Convulsions.
axe cooling and soothing. HI
FENNINGS' >
CHILDREN'S POWDERS ;
For Children Cutting their Teeth. ">
To prevent Convulsions.
(Do not contain Calomel, Opium, H
Morphia, nor anything injurious pi
to a tender babe.) _
Sold in Stamped Boxes at is. ijd.
and as. 9d. (great saving), with full H
directions. Sent post free, 15 X
stamps. Direct to Alfred Fen- _
NINGS, West Cowes, I.W. -w
Read FENNINGS' EVERY
MOTHER'S BOOK, which con- P
tains valuable hints on Feeding,
Teething, Weaning, Sleeping, etc.
Ask your Chemist for a Free copy.
CO . DO NOT UNTIMELY DIE! ^ c©
LU SORE THROATS CURED WITH ONE DOSE. O
S i FENNINGS' FEVER CURER1 = £
OCQ BOWEL COMPLAINTS cured with One Dose. n2 ■
_u|UJ TYPHUS or LOW FEVER cured with Two — ?
Doses. m 111
Oa DYPTHERIA cured with Three Doses. D -p
SCARLET FEVER cured with Four Doses.
DYSENTERY cured with Five Doses.
J O
; ■-» ■ »l" ■ 1 »-"■ w«-i willi • ioc
I™ Sold in Bottles at lr. 1 %d. each, with full directions, m
O by all Chemists. m ~1
eg* 9* read fennings' everybody's doctor. sent post free s rtj
lor 13 stamps, direct a. fennings, west cowes, i.w.
Ados aa»3 t ioj istuiaqQ ino/t qsy
•343 'Sllld33|g '2uiUE3j^'Suiq43SX
'Suipasg uo siuiq 3jqenjea' suiei
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-r AHHAH .S0NHNN3X PC3H
'AVI 'S3M03 4S3^Y 'SDN1N
-Nag aana'iv 04 iosjiq -sduie4s
X £1 'aarj isod tuag ' -suonoaaip
(_ ;|nj qiiAA '(8uiaes je3j3) -d6 'ss pue
. . -pfi-si lEsaxog paduiEig'ui p[Og
j~ (-aqcq 43pU94 E 01
"I snounfut SutqiAus aou 'Eiqdiojq
1— 'UlhldQ '13U40JE3 UIE4U03 JOU OQ)
SUOIS[nAUOf) IU3A3jd 0^
'qiMj itsqi Sui4in3 uaippq;} iog
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Guide Book Advertiser.
JUDSON'S
FILTERS
CHEAPEST & BEST
THE
ONLY FILTERS
That will remove all impurities, from suspension,
Animalculse, &c.; that will destroy all Organic
Impurities, Mineral Poisons, &c., &c., in Solution
of Water.
EXPLANATORY PAMPHLET POST FREE.
DANIEL JUDSON & SON,
LIMITED,
77, SOUTHWARK STREET, S.E.
Guide Book Advertiser.
11
FREEMAN'S
tftAOE MAR*-
CHLORODYNE
THE ORIGINAL AND ONLY TRUE.
IT IS THE GREATEST MEDICAL DISCOVERY OF THE
PRESENT CENTURY, AND IS REGARDED AS A BOON TO
MANKIND.
It is the best known remedy for Coughs, Colds, Con¬
sumption, Whooping Cough, Bronchitis, and Asthma.
It effectually checks and arrests those too often fatal diseases—
Diphtheria, Diabetes, Fever, Croup, Ague, &c.
It acts like a charm in Diarrhoea, and is the only known
Specific in Cholera and Dysentery.
It effectually cuts short all attacks of Epilepsy, Hysteria,
Palpitation, Convulsions and Spasms.
It is the only Palliative in Rheumatism, Gout, Cancer,
Toothache, Neuralgia, Sciatica, Lumbago, &.c.
It rapidly relieves pain from whatever cause, allays the irritation
of Fever, soothes and strengthens the system under exhaustive
diseases, restores the deranged functions, stimulates healthy
action of the secretions of the body, gives quiet and refreshing
sleep, and marvellously prolongs life. It may be taken by old
and young at all hours and times, according to the directions.
It is extensively used by Medical Men in their official and
private practice, at home and abroad, who have given numerous
written testimonials of its wonderful efficacy.
From John T\nner, M.D., L.R.C.P., M.R.C.S., L.S.A., L.M. Physician
to Farringdon Dispensary, Physician to the Reverend C. H. Spurgeon's
Metropolitan College, London, fire.
" 102, Harley Street, Cavendish Square, W.
"It gives me great pleasure to bear testimony in favour of Freeman's
Chlorodyne. I have prescribed it extensively, and in cases of Asthma, Chronic
Bronchitis, the last stage of Phthisis, and the Winter Coughs of the aged,
I have never found any substitute or chemical combination its equal."
Manufactured by the Sole Inventor, RICHARD FREEMAN, Pharmacist,
70, Kennington Park Road, London, S.E.
SoM by Chemists and Patent Medicine Dealers in all parts of the World,
in Bdttles, it. iid. : a-oz. at. gd. ; 4-oz. 41. 6d.; half-pint, xit. ; and
pints, 201. each, tree by post.
Purcnastrvgrs Oauttoned not to have palmed upon them any substitute. There
are omer articles bearing the name of Ohlorodyne, but quite devoid of its wonder¬
ful effects. Set that the Tradt Hark, Ths Elephant." is on ihs Vrrapner, «&«..
and thai the wards FREEMAN'S ORIGINAL CHLORODYNE, an
engraved em the Government Stamp, which is the only true Ofderodu«<),
SPECIMEN TESTIMONIALS.
FENNINQS' EVERY MOTHER'S BOOK sent post free on application
letter or post card. Direct to Alfred.Fennings.West Cowes. I.W.
coughs, colds, bronchitis,
q FENNINGS'
" LUNG HEALERS"
the best remedy to _
id cure all ^
O Coughs,Colds,Asthmas,&c.
Sold in Boxes at is. iid. and qj
W 2S. §d., with directions. Sent
^ post free for 15 stamp's. Direct
to A. Fknnings,West Cowes, r~
— I.W:
x The largest size Boxes,2S.9d. qj
Q (3s stamps post free) contains ^
three times the quantity of the
small boxes.
Read FENNINGS'r/)
EVERYBODY'S DOCTOR.
Sent post free, 13 stamps.
Direct A. Fennings, West
Cowes, I.W.
Do not let your Child Die 1
Fennings' Children's Powders
Prevent Convulsions.
are cooling and soothing. hi
FENNINGS' >
CHILDREN'S POWDERS "
For Children Cutting their Teeth.
To prevent Convulsions.
(Do not contain Calomel, Opium, H
Morphia, nor anything injurious m
to a tender babe.) _
Sold in Stamped Boxes at is. i Jd.
and 2S. 9d. (great saving), with full
directions. Sent post free, 15
stamps. Direct to Alfred Fen¬
nings, West Cowes, I.W.
Read FENNINGS' EVERY
MOTHER'S BOOK, which con¬
tains valuable hints on Feeding,
Teething, Weaning, Sleeping, etc.
Ask your Chemist for a Free copy.
CO
CO
I— 3
o
CO
DO NOT UNTIMELY DIE!
SORE THROATS CURED WITH ONE DOSE.
FENNINGS FEVER CURER1
BOWEL COMPLAiNTS cured with One Dose.
TYPHUS or LOW FEVER cured with Two
Doses.
DYPTHERIA cured with Three Doses.
SCARLET FEVER cured with Four Doses.
DYSENTERY cured with Five Doses.
Sold in Bottles at Is. X%d. each, with full directions,
by all Chemists.
Read FENNINGS' EVERYBODY'S DOCTOR. Sent post free
for 13 stamps, Direct A. FENNINGS, West Cowes, I.W.
CO
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Guide Book Advertiser.
!3
THREE
HOUSEHOLD
NECESSITIES!
JUDSON'E
IMPLE DYI
QUID, and require NO prep
<iiitations, that are extremely i
and waste much valuable tit
6d. PER BOTTLE, POST
_ coughs, colds, BRONCHrns, D0 not |et y0Ur Child Die 1
Q FEJYNT2fG-S' Fennings' Children's Powders
uj i nun up a i pdc vent Convulsions.
Lunu nCiMLCllQ O are cooling and soothing. pq
THE BEST REMEDY TO 2 - FENNINGS' ^
o Cniio-hs Colds Asthmas J. 5 CHILDREN'S POWDERS «
u U0UgHS,U0iaS,AStnmaS,4c- I For Children Cutting their Teeth. •<
Sold in Boxes at is. i^d. and I""" x0 prevent Convulsions
(/) as. 9d., with directions. Sent |jj (Do not contain Calomel, Opium, —j
— post free for 15 stamps. Direct (jj Morphia, nor anything injurious «
f- to A. Fennings, West Cowes, , to a tender babe.) 11
I.W. _ Sold in Stamped Boxes at is. i{d. ^
Z The largest size Boxes, 2s.gd. and 2s. 9a. (great saving), with full H
/\ (35 stamps post free), contains LU directions. Sent post free, 15 t
^ three times the quantity of the |j_ stamps. Direct to Alfred Fen-
Z small Boxes. ^ nings, West Cowes. I.W.
q Read FENNINGS'^ Read FENNINGS' EVERY ^
Zl EVERYBODY'S DOCTOR. CO MOTHER S BOOK, which con- O
" Sent post free, 13 stamps. tains valuable hints on Feeding,
GQ Direct A. Fennings, West Teething, Weaning, Sleeping, etc.
Cowes, I.W. Ask your Chemist for a Free copy
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uo»«oudd« uo «3JJ isod )uas MOOa S.H3HXOM AH3A.3 .SQM1MM3.
Gti'de Book Advertiser*
A REAL PUBLIC BLESSING.
SQUIRE KNIGHT'S
EYE OINTMENT
FOR THE CURE 0F- ALL DISEASES OF THE EYES,
APPROACHING EVEN TO BLINDNESS.
It cures—
Impaired Vision,
Blurring, Weak, and
Watery Eyes,"
Cataracts, Sore Eyes
left by Measles.
THE preservation of good Eyesight is a matter which
concerns both rich and poor, and the delicate structure
of the Eye makes it aailv liable to accident and injury.
This renowned Eye Ointment makes Spectacles and Surgical
Operations unnecessary. .
SEE THOUSANDS OF TESTIMONIALS,
Mary A. H. Parsons, Cradley Heath, Stourbridge, effectually
cured of bad inflamed eyes of four years' standing.
Mrs. Arnold, Hall Street, West Bromwich, had a cataract
entirely removed by the Eye Ointment, being for years in
blindness.
Sergeant Hawkins, 48th Regiment, at Bellary, East India,
had his eye-lashes restored by this Ointment, and many soldiers
in the regiment were cured by its use.
With an Immense Number of other Testimonials.
prepared only BY
C. P. G. CLARK & SON
(Successors to, Squire Knight),'
CHEMISTS, MARKET PLACE, DUDLEY,
and sold by all respectable Medicine Vendors in the Kingdom,
in pots, is. i^d., 2s. gd., and 4s. 6d. each.
Wholesale by all Patent Medicine Houses, or from the
Proprietors direct, for 16 or 36 Stamps.
It cures—
Red and Sore Eyelids,
Partial Blindness,
Inflammation in the
Eyes,
Obscurity of Vision.
ACROSTIC !!!
Just be more careful of the drink you quafj"
Ugly " microbes" and living vermicelli
j Uestroyedi all will be from your tap or welT.
j So quickly run and get one—or send servanT
| Qn no account «buy the wrong articlE
Kfumbers are worthless—others very deajt
S^g and rejoice now, all pure water loverS
A constant supply of PURE WATER may be insured by using JUDSON'S FILTERS.
Cheap and Good. Sold by all respectable Chemists, Ironmongers, &c.
Catalogues post free from D. JUDSON & SON, LTD., 77, Southwark St, London, S.E.
Guide Book Advertiser. 17
A BEAUTIFUL COMPLEXION
IS PRODUCED BY
GOWIAND'S LOTION
A BOTANICAL preparation of unfailingefficacy in purifying the skin from
all pimples, spots, freckles, tan, scorbutic dryness, and discoloration,
producing
A HEALTHY PURITY AND DELICACY OF COMPLEXION,
and, by its balsamic qualities, making the skin soft and clear, restoring and
retaining a charming juvenile elasticity to tl^e skin, and producing a bloom,
and transparency to the complexion that no ' other known preparation has
accomplished. Established 120 years, and is recommended in preference to
any other by the medical profession.
Sold by all Chemists, price 210 and 410 per. bottle.
CHOCOLAT
COMPAGNIE FRANCAISE,
J '
(PELLETIER & Ge.)
In Powder and in Tablets
from 1/6 per lb.
Confectionery and Chocolate Bonbons, specially suited
to Tourists.
London Branch-— 6g, Bermondsey New Road> S.E.
PARIS, LONDON, STRASBOURG.
Guide Book Advertiser.
MASKERY'S
CONGLETON
GINGERBRE A D■
FAMED FOR A CENTURY.
A most Wholesome Sweetmeat.
Unequalled for excelle?ice of quality.
Forwarded, free per Parcel Post, in Card Boxes and Tins, at
undermentioned prices :
1/1, 2/3, 3/-, 3/8, 5/6, 7/6,
REMITTANCES SHOULD ACCOMPANY ORDER.
Sold by Italian Warehousemen, Confectioners, and
Grocers.
BASSINETTES I
BASSINETTES!
HIGH CLASS. LOW PRICES.
T. ELDERKIN
AIMS at producing a BABY'S CARRIAGE second
to none. He uses only the very best materials
and employs most skilled labour, and has a reputation
to lose. He will undertake to deliver carriage paid
to any station in Great Britain, or for foreign orders
F.O.B. He will also take deferred payments of io/-
per month. Send for Illustrated Catalogue.
T. ELDERKIN, Manufacturer, Oxford St., Manchester.
Guide Book Advertiser
19
BRASS-O-LJ N E
Is the Lacquer everybody should use who have any Brass or
Gilt Ornaments, Fenders, Fire-Irons, or Picture Rods. It will
make them equal to New instantly upon being applied, which is
done by simply painting the BRASS-O-LlNE upon the
article with a Brush.
For Steel or Bright G'oods it is invaluable. No oxidation
takes place upon any article upon which it is applied.
COPY OP TESTIMONIAL.
Walton Manor Lodge, Oxford.
Sir,—I have tried your Brass-o-Line on a variety of Brass articles since I
received it, and I am delighted with the results. It saves an immense deal of
trouble. The candlesticks which I painted with it the day I had it are as
bright now as they were then, though without it I should probably have had
to clean them three or four times over ; it is a most satisfactory invention,
and deserves success. I am, Sir, yours sincerely,
To Mr. T. Birtwistle, Burnley. R. A. R. Bennett.
Sent, Post Free, for Is. 2d. and 2s. 9d. by
THOS. BIRTWISTLE & CO., LIMITED,
15, Market Street, Burnley.
Gt. Yarmouth Bloater Company.
(Established. 1878.)
PATRONISED BY ROYALTY,
Nobility, Clergy, Gentry, Army, Navy, and Private Families throughout
the United Kingdotn.
The Secretary will forward to any address genuine Bloaters, Kippers,
Mild or Ham-cured Herrings at 2s. 6d. and 3s. for 25 ; 5s. and 6s. for 50 ;
9s. and lis. for 100 ; or 7 lbs. 3s. 6d., II lbs. 5s. 6d., Parcel Post.
We have also introduced Potted Herring (original recipe)—a sample can be
enclosed, or by Parcel Post, Is., on remittance to HENRY S. SCOTT,
Bankers—National Provincial Bank of England.
PEARL WHITE TEETH AND FRAGRANT BREATH.
WOODS'
AREGA NUT TOOTH PASTE
As used and recommended by Madame
Marie Roze, the Prima Donna.
Sold everywhere in Pots, 6d. fy Is. each.
Caution.—See " Woods, Plymouth," on cover.
20
Guide Booh Ad vet User.
THE TEETH ! THE TEETH !
Those precious Teeth!
SAVE, PURIFY, BEAUTIFY.
C A RBOLIN E.
1/6 (TOOTHPASTE) 2/6
ANTISEPTIC EAU DE COLOGNE.
1/0 Especially valuable to htvalids. 2/6
Are the best known Cleansers, Preservers and Deodorisers.
Lancet says—" Carbolics prevent Tartar and should be used daily."
Dental Guide—" No tooth application equals the Carbolics."
Patrick Jamieson, Esq., Surgeon, Peterhead.
" Your Antiseptic Cologne is much appreciated in my Household."
R. C. Heyworth, Esq., Quecnsgate, London.
" I have used Carboline for five years, and have not had toothache since
I began to do so ; it excels every preparation I have yet tried."
PROPRIETORS:—
GEORGE & WELCH,
WORCESTER.
Through Chemists or Post Free from Makers.
A CERTAIN CURE FOR
The Most Rapid Cure for
Headache.
PURIFY THE BLOOD.
Certain Cure for Wind and Flatulency.
Extensively used for Fifty Years in Bilious, Liver, and Kidney Complaints.
AN INVALUABLE MEDICINE FOR EVERY HOUSEHOLD.
WATSON'S CASTOR OIL PILLS.
Of all Chemists, ylAd., is. s]4.d., 2s. gd. per Box ; or post free for stamps from
The Proprietor, 18, HAYMARKET, LEICESTER.
See that the Signature, "James Watson," is on the Government Stamp.
FOR broken ^RTTclTesT &c.
FOULKES' CEM ENT
AS USED IN ALITHE GOVERNMENT MUSEUMS.
WiTVmite any Material, from Glass and China to Wood and Leather and
the Articles mended bear washing in Boiling Water.
Sold by Chemists, in Bottles, at 6d. and Is. (equal to three small).
Should there be any difficulty in getting it, send Stamps to the Proprietor,
who will deliver it post free^
W. J. FOULKES, Pharmaceutical Chemist, Birkenhead.
Guide Book Advertiser.
21
JUDSON'S
lesl
i ■ .icoCCOOOOW'" *
" But kings and mightiest potentates must DYE!"
'•HENRY VI.," Act III., Sc. 2.
"To gild refined gold, to paint the lily,
To throw a perfume on the violet,
To smooth the ice, or add another hue
Unto the rainbow; or, with taper-light,
To seek the beauteous eye of Heaven to garnish,
To aduertise the well-known DYESofJUDSON,
Is wasteful, and ridiculous excess!!"
"KING JOHN," Act IV., Sc. 2.
JUDSON'S DYES
ARK THE
Vm* BEST & SIMPLEST.
6d. per Bottle.
"If the east wind should open your CHAPS again "
"TEMPEST," Act II., Sc. 2
RUB IN JUDSON'S " NOSWAL," '
"NOSWAL" cures CHAPS, &.C., in ONE NIGHT.
7§d. and 1/1£ per Bottle, Post Free.
DANIEL JUDSON & SON, Limited,
77, SOUTHWARK STREET, LONDON, S.E.
Useful Household Wecessi
22 Guide Book Advertiser.
THE CRAND SECRET OF LONG LIFE.
If the Bowels have not been moved during the day, make
it a Rule to take a Dose of
LOWE'S PILLS
at Bedtime. Sufferers from Epileptic Fits have been permanently
cured by adopting this rule ; and also cases of Indigestion of
30 years' duration. Their effect in Rheumatic Affections is
simply marvellous, and they are also a preventative of all Diseases,
and keep the Body in sound health.
Sold in Boxes at is. i%d. and 2s. gd. each, by all Chemists ; or post free
for 15 or 36 postage stamps. You are strongly recommended to have these
Pills direct from the Proprietor—freshly made !
R. H. LOWE, Proprietor, 330, BILSTON RD.,
WOLVERHAMPTON,
NOTICE—A Box of these Pills, at is. if^d., will be forwardedj post
paid, upon receipt of this Coupon—cut out—and 12 penny postage stamps.
In some districts, where these Pills are not so well known, attempts are made
to foist inferior Pills upon customers.
HERBAL] DURANT'S [PILLS.
These Pills are the Mildest, Safest, and most Effectual Remedy
ever compounded for all disorders of the Stomach, the Liver,
and the Blood.
They have no equal in all cases of Wind and Pain in the Stomach and
Bowels, Biliousness, Sick Headache, Palpitation of the Heart, Pain between
the Shoulders, Cold Chills or Flushings of Heat, Drowsiness, Disturbed
Sleep, Fright Dreams, and all Nervous Disorders. They never fail in curing
Gravel, Piles, or Pains in the Back and Loins.
Prepared only by C. DURANT, Boston, Lincolnshire, and sold by all
Patent Medicine Vendors.
Prioe Is. 1%d. and 2s. 9d. per Box, or sent direct on receipt of stamps.
IMPORTANT TO TOURISTS & OTHERS.
" Corn-cure" (James's)—" Corn-cure " is certain to relieve!
" Corn-cure" (James's)—" Corn-cure" is sure to cure !
"Sore Throat-cure" (James's), One Dose relieves!
" Sore Throat-cure" (James's), One Bottle cures 1
JAMES'S ANTI-CATARRH SMELLING BOTTLE
immediately relieves and speedily cures Cold in the Head, Hay Fever,
Influenza, &c. Any of the above valuable preparations sent per post te
any part of the United Kingdom on receipt of postal order for is., or
thirteen penny stamps, by the Proprietor,
K. JAMES, Chemist, BEVERLEY, YORKSHIRE.
Guide Book Advertiser.
23
" CLEANSE AND RESTORE THE BLOOD."
Extract frem the "Young Ladies' Journal," vSV/J., 1884."
OLD DOCTOR JACOB TOWNSEND'S
AMERICAN S A RS A PAR ILL A.
" For Eruptions of the Skin, Boils, and other troublesome afflictions caused by an
impure condttion of the blood, Sarsaparilla will be found to be of the utmost use, and
old doctor Jacob TOWNSEND'S is one of the very best preparations of Sarsaparilla
known. It has been so long- before the public that it does not require much recom¬
mendation at our hands ; we mention it by way of recalling its useful properties to our
readers, as so many suppose we can suggest to them external remedies for eruptive
tendencies, especially when of a trifling kind. The cure, however, in such cases, can
only be through the purification of the blood, for which there is no better medicine than
Old Doctor Jacob townsend's Sarsaparilla."
Chief Depot: DEAN STEEL & Co., London.
Sold by all Chemists, i7i Bottles, is. 6d., 4s. 6d., 7s. 6d.t and tis.
OWBRIDGE'S LUNG TONIC
Owhrido-p's The Mighty Heaier. Lung Tonic.
Owbridge's S"' y<"" 0wbrid£t's LunB Lrng Tonic.
n l ■ j 1 It has a power over diseases hitherto unknown I UflSf Tonic
UWDriage S ;n Medicine. _ IT"'
Owbridge's Are you at all weak-chested, or inclined to be LlUlg I011IC.
Owbridge'S Consumptive, with junt avouch of Cough J.ung TomC.
flwhrid£rp'<? "Try 'his wonderful Medicine." The Cough LUng I OH IC.
UWUI lUgO t> gjjj weakness w;ii disappear as if by magic, and i Tnnip
Owbritfe^S y°u w''i a Strength and a power you never LUI,6 Ulllo.
Owbridfrp's had before. Lung Tonic.
nwhri&l'l HAVB YOTJ A COUGH? A D0SB Lung Tonic.
a l • j 1 will believe it. Lune Tonic
Owbndge s have you A cold ? a dose at I un| Ton; '
Owbridge s bed-time will remove it. . j~l t ■'
Owbridge S Bronchitis and Asthma it relieves instantly. . ° '
Owbridge's The spasms of coughing so dreaded in lung i 0dic.
- . . i° , Whooping Cough become less with each dose I Tnrl/i
Owbridge's of the Medicine. . Lunglonic.
Prepared by W. T. OWBRIDGE, The Laboratory, Hull.
Sold in Bottles, Is. l%d., 2s. 9d., 4s. 6d. and lis., by all Chemists and
Patent Medicine Dealers Everywhere.
HARSTON &Co., Leeds.
GINGER ALE,
From PURE JAMAICA GINGER ROOT.
SELTZER, POTASS, LITHIA, SODA WATER, LEMONADE,
FOR HOME OR EXPORT.
2 4
Guide Book Advertiser.
NURSERY RHYMES 1!!
QLD Mr. Horner
Satin a corner,
Working with might and main ;
Adorning a dado
That never will fade, oh,
With Judson's Mahogany Stain.
JUDSON'S
WOOD
STAINS
A Stain and Var¬
nish combined ;
no size or knot¬
ting required,
either before or
after use. Save
an immense
amount of trou¬
ble and bother.
'• Those Stain now
u>ho never Stained
before,
And they who once
have Stained now
Stain the mortf
~J~HE Queen was in the parlour,
The page was gobbling pears,
When he noticed how extremely
Dull and dirty were the chairs.
So he ventured to suggest
To her, in a manner quite tol-
loi'ish,
How much improved those chairs
would be
With Judson's (Furniture)
Polish.
JUDSON'S
FURNITURE
POLISH
The best and
most economical
in the market;
produces a bril¬
liant polish in a
few moments,
with very little
rubbing. Pre¬
pared from the
recipe of an emi¬
nent pianoforte
manufacturer.
GIVE it a TRIAL
QLD King Cole—
That merry old soul—
His favourite pipe
Got smashed in the bowl.
So he grumbled and mumbled
Wherever he went,
Till he mended that pipe
With Judson's Cement.
JUDSON'S
CEMENT
OF
POMPEII
For mending
broken glass,
china, meer¬
schaum, ivory,
&c.
The best Cement
ever produced.
A most valuable
article ; should
be in every
house.
Guide Book Advertiser. 25
INSURE YOUR HORSES AND CATTLE
with the
Imperial Live Stock Insurance Association,
LIMITED.
Head Offices: 48, PALL MALL, LONDON, S.W.
Business Established 1874.
Horses, Cattle, and other Live Stock insured against Death from Accident
and Disease.
Reduced Rates ! Losses Promptly Paid 1
Prospectuses and full particulars post free.
Agents Wanted. B. S. ESSEX, Secretary.
THE CELEBRATED
TAM O'SHANTER HONRS
Are unrivalled for Amateurs' and Joiners' use.
Sharpen with water.
Ask your Ironmonger to get you one ; if he won't, write
me. Large assortment of Hones for all purposes.
GOLD MEDAL, London International Exhibition, 188J.
J. C. MONTGOMERIE,
Dalmore, Stair, Ayrshire, N.B.
26
Guide Book Advertiser.
BY THE AUTHORITY OF
)cr Pfajesfg llje <£$«««,
(Kntpcss of $nMa.
BORAX DRY SOAP 'is the best>
AND MOST CONVENIENT FOR DAILY USE.
"The Queen's Patent for Excellence." Highest Award in the World. In
Quarter, Half, and Pound Packets. Full directions on each.
BORAX EXTRAGT OF SOAP,
"THE GREAT DIRT EXTRACTER."
" Perfection of Packet Soap." Extracts all dirt immediately. Under Her
Majesty's Royal Patent for Utility. In Quarter, Half, and Pound Packets.
Full Directions on each.
Known
throughout
the Civilised
World by this
Registered
and Special
Trade Mark.
" Linen
White as
Snow,
Woollens
Sweet as
New Mown
Hay."
BORAX rxr) STARCH GLAZE
Imparts Enamel-like Gloss, and gives Permanent Stiffness and Brilliancy to
Muslin, Lace, Linen, Collars, Cuffs, &c. In id. and 3d. Packets. Boxes, 6d.
Full directions on each.
PREPARED
CONCENTRATED
CALIFORNIAN
BORAX.
" The Household Treasure—Pure Antiseptic."
Specially Prepared for Personal and Domestic Uses. Marvellous Purifier,
Water Softener, Dirt ExpeBer, Taint Remover, Food Preserver, and Arrester
of Decay.
In Packets, id., 3d., and 6d. each. Directions and Recipes on each.
These Preparations are sold by all Grocers and Soap Dealers.
Discovery, Uses, Recipes, and Interesting Papers, Post-free with Sample
Packet forTwo Stamps, direct from the Works, PATENT BORAX CO.,
10, 11, 12, 14, 15, New Market Street, Birmingham.
London Depot: 101, LEADENJHALL STREET, E.C.
Guide Book Advertiser. 27
NOT A TOY!
a DCP^rrT
SEWING MACHINE.
Will Sew any Material, from fine
Calico to heavy Cloth.
/iSGSix
—* fL JM
00
L PRESENT
s jS
"*C
=0
c?
-<
1—
m
—H
—1
£ {ftjtf JIT
3D
OO
W --^NKrr^jjraill
-O
—1
m
^ pw 'Z^.L ■—
-—1
CARRIAGE PAID to any Address on
Receipt
of Stamps or P.O. Order for by the
Sole Manufacturers,
DANIEL JDDSON & SON, Ltd,
77, SOUTHWARK STREET, LONDON, S.E.
28
Guide Book Advertiser.
THE NEW RUSTIC CAR
fNTRODUCED by the well known Manufacturers of Baby Carriages,
Messrs. DAVIES & CO., is the most elegant and easy-running Carriage
ever produced. It is finished with best Pitch-pine or Walnut strips,
varnished natural colour, and fitted together at the angles with brass or
silver plated studs, to match the other fittings, thus giving it a very effective
appearance. Mounted on strong steel springs, wheels large size, and
Bicycle pattern, with best Rubber Tyres ; china handle, reversible cloth-
lined hood (to use either end), and the body is trimmed with Crockett's best
American Leather Cloth, three cushions being also sent. This Carriage is
either suitable for one or two children.
A Lined Skin or Imitation Seal Covering Rug is also given.
Sent securely packed on receipt of P. O.O. or cheque for £2 15/-,
or with NICKEL-PLATED FITTINGS, £3. Carriage paid to any town in
England. If not satisfactory money returned.
US' For lightness, combined with strength, the Rustic Car surpasses either
wire or wicker, and has the advantage over both in that it can be washed
clean as easily as an ordinary Wood Bassinette without wetting the inside
lining or otherwise damaging the carriage.
Wire, Wicker, or Wood Bassinettes - - from 30s. to £5.
Perambulators from 20s. to 50s.
Particulars and Illustrated Price List, with over twenty different designs,
sent on application. Please mention this Guide Book when ordering.
DAVIES & CO., GRADLEY HEATH, NEAR BIRMINGHAM.
"LA BRILLANTINE 99
METALLIC POWDER
(REGISTERED)
Is the best, cheapest, and most effective Powder for Cleaning and Polishing
Metals and Glass (especially Brass). It is used by the LIFE, HORSE, and
DRAGOON GUARDS and other regiments, the METROPOLITAN and
VOLUNTEER FIRE BRIGADES, &c., &c.
Sold in 6d. and Is. Boxes.
Proprietors: J. F. BAUMGARTNER & Co.,
22g, Newman St., Oxford St., London, W.
Guide Book Advertiser.
29
BRILL'S
l£d. per Q ET A
Bath. O L n
SALT.
invaluable in the Nursery.
Bracing and Refreshing.
A Safeguard against Colds.
No trouble—no waste.
Melts almost instantly.
A packet for each Bath.
SOLD EVERYWHERE.
FRANKS & CO., 59, EASTCHEAP, LONDON.
PUREST
IN THE
WORLD
UN EQUALLED for theCOMPLEXION
INVALUABLE FOR CHILDREN:
NEVER IRRITATES THE SKIN
DELICATELY' PERFUMED
3°
Guide Book Advertiser.
"FEARE GOD, HONOUR YE KYNGE."
This motto is painted on the dials of
• J, N. MASTERS* "BOYS'" WATCHES
TOURISTS will find one of great service in saving a better
watch, and it will do for ONE OF THE BOYS
when you get home, for—"First they want a Knife
then they want a Watch, then they want a Wife."
Nota Bene.—All Goods sent by return of Post.
Price
35/-
Post Free.
The "LOYALIST" BROOCH
(See below) is a speciality, designed, registered,
and supplied only by
J. N. MASTERS, Jeweller, RYE, SUSSEX,
And is made only in Gold, 40/- & 27/6,
Catalogue and Price List, Post Free.
FORD'S GOLD MEDAL
ABSORBENT BLOTTINGS.
JURORS' REMARKS : — Very absorbent; will not
become hard or close ; colours not affected by climate, and
are considered by the Trade as equal, if not superior, to any
manufactured. We consider them entitled to the highest
position, and recommend a Certificate of GOLD MEDAL.
They are also moderately strong and durable, and therefore
cheaper, lasting longer.
Varieties—White, Pink, Deep Pink, Buff, Blue, Mauue, and
Antique Mauue.
Treasury Thickness—381bs. Demy. Can be had of any other
thickness.
Please ask of your Stationer for
FORD'S 428 MILL BLOTTINGS.
A Prize Medal Label on the Ream, and a water mark in each sheet—
" FORD 428 MILL."
Guide Book Advertiser.
" A capital guide to the angler, the yachtsman, or the artist."—Scotsman.
LAND OF THE BROADS. A practical guide for Yachts¬
men, Anglers, Tourists, and other Pleasure-seekers on the
Broads and Rivers of Norfolk and Suffolk. In paper, with
Map, price is.
A SPECIAL EDITION, with much additional, interesting,
and valuable information, and numerous first-class Illustrations,
and a Splendid Map, printed in colours, showing the principal
roads and every place worth visiting in the whole district. In
cloth gilt, price 2s. 61.
" Reliable and accurate ; ... an admirable companion to tourists and
cyclists."—The Tourist and Traveller.
THE TOURIST'S ROUTE MAP OF ENGLAND AND
WALES. Second Edition, thoroughly revised. Shows
clearly all the Main, and most of the Cross Roads, and the
Distances between the Chief Towns, as well as the Mileage
from London. In addition to this, Routes of Thirty of the most
interesting Tours are printed in red. Mounted on linen, so as
not to tear, and enclosed in a strong cloth case. In cloth,
ptice I s* 7.d,
London: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, Strand, W.C.
FOR BUYING, ) _ _ [ECONOMICAL,
EXCHANGING, SCI, | EXPEDITIOUS,
AND SELLING. J ' (INVALUABLE.
32
<'juitt'Book Advertiser.
If you wish to be well and keep well take
BRAGG'S
VEGETABLE CHARCOAL
It wards off the attacks of
CHOLERA, TYPHOID, AND ALL MALIGNANT FEVERS,
Speedily Cures
ACIDITY, FLATULENCE, HEARTBURN, IMPURE
BREATH, INDIGESTION, ETC,
It destroys all disease germs, and from its purifying
action in absorbing all impurities in the Stomach and
Bowels, gives a healthy tone to the whole system.
SOLD BY ALL CHEMISTS, IN BOTTLES, 2s., 4s., & 6s. EACH.
BRAGG'S
CHARCOAL BISCUITS
Speedily eradicate Worms. Children like them.
SOLD IN TINS, Is., 2s. & 4s. EACH, BY ALL CHEMISTS,
And of the Sole Maker,
J. L. BRAGG, 14,Wigmore Street,
L O N DON.
Guide Book Advertiser.
33
Grant's Morella Cherry Brandy,
As supplied to Her Majesty at all the Royal Palaces,
And to the Aristocracy and Gentry of the United Kingdom.
The delicious product of the famed Kent Morellas. Supersedes
Wine in many households. A most valuable Tonic.
Grant's Orange Cognac,
A tonic Liqueur of the highest class and most agreeable flavour.
Valuable to Sportsmen, and pleasant with Aerated Waters. A
beautiful combination of Seville Oranges with the
finest Cognac.
Grant's Morella Cherry Brandy,
Much favoured by Sportsmen and Travellers.
Refreshing with Aerated Waters, and mixed with hot water it
is a nice accompaniment to a Cigar,
Grant's Ginger Cognac,
A stomachic of superior extra quality. Made of the Finest Old
Cognac, readily discernible by the palate. The best possible
remedy for disorders of the Stomach.
Grant's Morella Cherry Brandy,
The delicious product of the famed Kent Morellas.
" Sportsman's Quality," fpr Hunting and out-door use.
" Queen's Quality," for household consumption and for ladies.
A SILVER MEDAL was awarded to these Tonic Liqueurs at
the International Health Exhibition. Medals also at
the Exhibitions of London, 1873; Melbourne, 1881;
Calcutta, 1883; dc.
Sold by all Dealers, and at all Hotels and Restaurants.
BEWARE OF CHEAP IMITATIONS.
MANUFACTURERS:
THOS. GRANT & SONS, Maidstone,
Makers of " MORELLA," a Non-Alcoholic Wine, both Still and Sparkling;
also of the delicious "MORELLA MARMALADE:"
Series 3
34 Guide Book Advertiser.
EVANS'S
BOAR'S sail HEAD
CROCHET COTTON,
MALTESE THREAD,
AND
SUPERIOR MACHINE COTTONS.
ESTABLISHED 1783.*
PALMER'S %
COMPOUND ESSENCE OF INDIAN HEMP,
Cures Asthma, Bronchitis, Influenza, Blood Spitting,
Sore Throats, and Coughs and Colds of all kinds.
This invaluable Remedy immediately relieves the most inveterate Coughs,
Colds, Hoarseness, Difficulty of Breathing, Blood Spitting ; rhflamed Sore
Throat, Influenza, Irritation of and Pains in the Chest; and for Chronic
Asthma it cannot be equalled. It promotes free expectoration by dissolving
the congealed phlegm, thus 'relieving the lungs from all irritating matter ;
after which follows sound and refreshing sleep, not (as with most Cough
Mixtures) followed with Langour and Headache.
READ THE FOLLOWING TESTIMONIAL.
Mr. E. Palmer, Waltham Lodge, March 9th.
Dear Sir,—I write to say my wife has derived very much benefit from taking your
"Compound Essence of Indian Hemp." She was suffering from a severe attack of
Bronchitis, and was so bad that she could not lie down in bed. I dare not go to sleep
for fear she would suffocate before morning, her breathing was so bad -; she was so weak
she could scarcely walk across the room floor. She had been doctoring for some time,
but got no better, when we accidently saw one of your papers about your Medicine, and
resolved to give ft a trial. The first dose gave her relief, and four small bottles cured her.
We had intended sending you an account of her cure, but so far neglected to do so.
We recommend your Medicine to everybody we hear talk about having the same
disease.
I remain, dear Sir, yours faithfully, TAMES MARKHAM.
Prepared only by ENOCH PALMER, M.P.S., 31, Cleethorpe Road, Grimsby, in
bottles at is. i^d. and 2s. 9d. each.
WHOLESALE AGENTS. Sanger and Son, Barclay and Son, Newbery and Son,
and Edwards and Son, London; Lofthouse and Saltmer, Market Place, Hull; William
Foggitt, Thirsk; and Goodall, Backhouse and Co., Leeds.
When you ask f®r " Palmer's Compound essence of Indian Hemp," see that
you get it. Any respectable Druggist will obtain it for you from his Wholesale Agent.
A 2s. gd. Bottle sent free by post, by the Proprietor, to any address in the United
Kingdom, on receipt of Postal Order.
Guide Book Advertiser.
35
W R A Y,
OPTICIAN,
Jltaraxfaxiurer af ^pbatagrapljic
TERRESTRIAL TELESCOPES,
Field, and Marine Glasses, &c.
LIST of PHOTOGRAPHIC LENSES FREE.
Illustrated Catalogue of Astronomical and Terrestrial Tele¬
scopes, Microscopes, Objectives, Eye-pieces, &c., for stamp.
W. WR A Y,
LAUREL HOUSE, NORTH HILL, HIGHGATE,
LONDON, N.
| ORCHARD'S CURE FOR DEAFNESS. E
* Safe and Harmless. Has cured Hundreds. J
< "Deaf for 40 fears, and then Cared." >
* Sir,—My sale for your " Cure for Deafness " increases. '
' A man here who has been deaf Forty years, has had his J
J hearing restored by it. j qKEKNi Chemist, Christehurch. ►
J is. i\d. per Bottle, Free by Post for u stamps, from J
« EDWIN d. OROHARD, Chemist, SALISBURY. »
| ANY CHEMIST CAN TKOCURE IT TO ORDER. >
/ff ITSSer OOVVVgVffTVW VWW
•THE UNIVERSAL HOUSEHOLD REMEDIES!
1 These excellent FAMILY MEDICINES are invaluable in the treatment of
all ailments incidental to every Household. The PILLS purify, regulate,
and strengthen the whole system, while the OINTMENT is unequalled for
the cure of Bad Legs, Bad Breasts, Old Wounds, Sores and Ulcers.
Possessed of these REMEDIES, every mother has at once the means of
curing most complaints to which herself or family is liable.
N.B. — Advi't gratis at 78, New Oxford Street, late 533, Oxford, Street,
London, daily beticecn the hours cf 11 and 4, or by Utter.
36
Guide Book Advertiser.
HIOXON'S POPULAR POETS.
The press and the public, alike in Great Britain and her Colonies, and
in the United States, unite in their testimony to the immense superiority
of Melon's Popular Poets over any similar collection published by any
other house. The possession by the Publishers of the Copyright Works
of Coleridge, Hood, Keats, Shelley, Wordsworth, and other great
National Poets, places this Series above rivalry.
With Red Border Lines, Critical Memoir, and Illustrations in each,
handsomely bound, cloth gilt, gilt edges,
PRICE 3s. 6d. PER VOLUME.
1. Byron's Poetical Works.
2. Longfellow's Poetical Works.
3. Wordsworth's Poetical Works.
4. Scott's Poetical Works.
5. Shelley's Poetical Works.
6. Moore's Poetical Works.
7. Hood's Poetical Works.
8. Keats' Poetical Works.
9. Coleridge's Poetical Works.
10. Burns' Poetical Works.
11. Tupper's Proverbial Philosophy.
12. Milton's Poetical Works.
13. Campbell's Poetical Works.
14. Pope's Poetical Works.
15. Cowper's Poetical Works.
16. Humorous Poems.
17. American Poetry.
18. Mrs. Hermans' Poetical Works.
19. Thomson's Poetical Works.
20. Poetic Treasures. Edited by Rev. Dr. Giles.
21. Hood. 2nd Series.
22. Whittier's Poetical Works.
23. Lowell's Poetical Works.
24. Young's Poetical Works.
25. Shakespeare (Complete)
26. Keble's Christian Year.
27. Poe's Poetical Works.
28. Rossetti's Lives of Famous Poets.
29. Leigh Hunt's Poetical Works.
30. Scott's Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border.
31. Dodd's Beauties of Shakespeare.
32. Poems of Ireland. Edited by Samuel Lover.
33. Herbert's Poetical Works.
A Iso to be had in the following varieties of binding—Half-parchment,
38. 6d.; Half-morocco, 5s.; Half-calf, 6s.; Morocco, 7s. 6d.; Morocco
extra, 8s. ; Tree-calf, 10s. 6d. ; Relief-leather, 12s. (id.
WARD, LOCK, and CO., London and New York;
and 07 all booksellers.
Steamer Routes.
37
THE MANX LINE.
THE ISLE OF HAH, LIVERPOOL, AND MANCHESTER
STEAMSHIP Co., LIMITED.
NEW SERVICE OF
Fastest Paddle-Wheel Steamers Afloat,
" QUEEN VICTORIA." " PRINCE OF WALES."
HOW TO SPEND A HAPPY, HEALTHFUL DAY,
160 miles sail in NINE HOURS AND A HALF ; including
two hours and a half in the Isle of Man. Breakfast, dinner, and
tea ®n board.
DOUBLE DAILY ^ SERVICE
(EXCEPTING SUNDAYS).
PASSAGE, THREE HOURS AND A HALF. ;
Leave Liverpool Landing Stage, 10 a.m. and 4- p.m. Leave
Douglas, 10 a.m and 4 p.m.
Fares :—Single Fares.—To or from Liverpool and Douglas
or Ramsey, first saloon, 6s.; second saloon, 3^. Half-fare under
twelve years.—Return Tickets.—First saloon, 10s.6d.; second
saloon, 5-r. 6d. These tickets are available for two calendar
months, exclusive of tiie date of issue.—Supple7>ientary Tickets,
entitling holders of thorough third-class tickets to travel first
saloon on steamer—Ret urn, 5s.; Single 3^.
T\H1S COMPANY IS THE ONLY
"MANX LINE,"
and is not connected, direc tlyor indirectly, with any other steamship company.
3a, BRUNSWICK STREET, LIVERPOOL.
38
Steamer Routes.
The Magnificent New Steamship " BRIER," or other Steamers, ar
intended to sail, weather and other circumstances
permitting, from
Morecambe to Londonderry,
Every TUESDAY and SATURDAY EVENING-
LONDONDERRY TO MORECAMBE DIRECT.
Every MONDAY and THURSDAY AFTERNOON. ;
Calling off PQRTRUSH lor GIANT'S CAUSEWAY (both ways) in
suitable weather, when boats are regularly in attendance, but are not undei
the management of the Steamship Company.
RETURN FARES: Cabin, 15/-; Steerage, 61-.
TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR ONE MONTH.
The magnificent headlands and charming scenery along the Antrim and Donegal coast,
with the Scotch mountains in the distance, present a scene of grandeur seldom met with
in a day's sail. The Giant s Causeway is justly termed one of the world's wonders,
Wii.ten accounts convey no idea of its magnificence. A good view can be had from the
steamer, which passes along the coast in fine weather. At Derry, the Tourist may stand
On sites immortalised by the bravs defenders of the maiden city, whence there are good
views oi the lough and surrounding country.
I. M.^SIBBALiD. Morecambe Harbour.
SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND,
glasgow
AND THE
highlands.
Royal. Route, via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.
THE Royal MsrS Swift Steamer, COLUMBA or IONA, sails daily from
May till October, from Glasgow, at 7 a.m., and from Greenock, at 9 a.m.,
in connection with Express Trains from London and the South, for Kyles of
Bute, Tamert, and Ardrishaig, conveying Passengers for Islay, Loch Awe,
Oban, Fort William, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, GJencoe, Gairloch (for Loch-
maree), Loch Scavaig, Loch Coruisk, CuchulEin Hills, Skye, Lewis, and
West Highlands. Official Guide- Book, price 3a?.; Illustrated, 6d.\
cloth gilt, is. Circular Tourist Tickets are issued on board in con¬
nection with the various railways. See Time Bill, with Map and Tourist
Fares, free, at Messrs. CHATTO and WI.NDUS, Publishers, 214,
Piccadilly, London ; or by post, from
1887. DAVID MACBKAVNE, 119, PIope Street Gt.*sr:ns»
Steamer Routes.
39
GLASGOW ffi HIGHLANDS.
ji rVv "\/(TEEKLY CIRCULAR TOUR by the favourite Steamer
tXN. VV " DUNARA CASTLE," from Glasgow, every Thursday,
at twelve noon, and from Greenock at 7 p.m., for Colonsay,
lona, Bunessan, Tyree, Skye, Harris, Uist, and Barra. Returning to Glasgow
on Wednesdays.
OCCASIONAL SPECIAL TRIPS to the ISLAND of ST. KILDA
affords to tourists the opportunity of about a week's sea voyage, and, at the
same time, a panoramic view of the magnificent scenery of the Outer H ebrides.
Cabin Fare (superior sleeping accommodation), 45s. ; Cuisine (excellent).
Breakfast, is. : Dinner, is. 6d. ; Tea, is.
Time-bills, with maps, and berths secured, on application to
MARTIN ORME. 20. Robertson Street, Glasgow.
CIRCULAR TOURS.
GLASGOW AND THE OUTER HEBRIDES.
ONE WEEK'S PLEASURE-SAILING to the West Highlands by the
splendid sea-going Steamer " HEBRIDEAN," sailing from Glasgow
and Greenock every MONDAY for Oban, Mull, Skye, Barra, Uist, &c.,
affords the tourist a splendid opportunity of vie wing the magnificent scenery
of the west of Skye and the Outer Hebrides.
N.B.—During the season special trips are made to the far-famed Island
ok St. Kilda, where passengers are given facilities for landing : also to Loch
Roag, from which the Druidical remains at Callernish may be visited.
Time bills, maps of route, cabin plans and berths, secured at—
JOHN" McC ATjILUM & Co.'s, 12, Ann Street (City), Glasgow.
OBAN & THE WESTERN ISLES.
Royal Mail Steamer " Holly "
SAILS THREE TIMES A WEEK,
Unless prevented by unforeseen circumstances,
From OBAN Railway Pier, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, to
COLL, TIREE, CASTLEBAY, LOCHBOISDALE, & LOCHMADDY,
returning to OBAN every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. First-class
accommodation for passengers, cattle, and general cargo. Apply to—
JAMES BLACKIE, Manager,
Highland Fisheries-Company (Limited), Oban.
THE STANDARD COOKERY BOOK.
Strongly bound -js. 6d.; cloth, gilt edges, 8j. 6d. ; half-calf, 10s. 6d.
MRS. BEETON'S BOOK OF
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT,
Containing nearly 3000 Receipts, 250 Bills of Fares, 600 Engravings, and
numerous Coloured Plates.
WARD, LOCK & CO.: London, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, E.C. i
New York, 10, Bond Street.
4°
Railway Routes.
Belfast and Northern Counties Railway.
SUMMER EXCURSIONS !
To PORTRUSH, PORTSTEWART or CASTLEROCK:
From 16th May till 31st October, TOURIST TICKETS are issued from
the chief railway stations in England ; from Dublin and all the principal
towns on the Great Northern (Ireland) Railway; also from Belfast and other
stations on Belfast and Northern Counties Railway system.
FAMILY TICKETS from Belfast for a month, capable of extension by
paying a small per centage extra. CHEAP TICKETS, available for day
after date of issue, and from Friday or Saturday till Monday, from Belfast
and other stations on the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway system.
TO GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
From 1st May till 31st October, CHEAP TICKETS issued from Belfast
and other stations on the Belfast and Northern Counties Railway, available
by the Electric Tramway Company's conveyances between Portrush and
Giant's Causeway. Tickets valid for day after date of issue, and from Friday
or Saturday till Monday.
ROUND THE ANTRIM COAST.
RAIL, COACH, AND ELECTRIC TRAMWAY.
From 1 st June till 30th September, tickets, available for one month, are
issued from Belfast. Tickets not available by coach after 30th September.
DONEGAL HIGHLANDS AND LAKES ERNE.
From 2nd May till 30th September, EXCURSION TICKETS, valid for
one month, are issued from Belfast.
WHITEHEAD AND LARNE.
EXCURSION TICKETS from Belfast every week-day during the
summer, valid for same day only.
For fares and further information respecting above excursions, see Belfast and
Northern Counties Railway Tourist Programme, or apply to the undersigned.
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES RAILWAY HOTEL
(Late Antrim ArmsJt
PORTRUSH,
has recently been acquired by the railway company, and is now under their management.
It has been lefurnished and considerably enlarged at great expense, and is now one of
the best hotels in Ireland. It is well situated, and commands a full view of sea and
coast. Sea-water baths, fitted with every modern improvement, on the hotel grounds.
For terms, <kc., apply to F. KOLINGS, PORTRUSH.
THE SHORTEST SEA PASSAGE
BETWEEN
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
is viA LARNE and STRANRAER.
Sea Passage, Two Hours ; Loch Sailing, Forty Minutes.
Daily (Sundays excepted) and daylight sailings by the first-class royal mail steamers—
"PRINCESS BEATRICE" and "PRINCESS LOUISE."
Through communication by this route between North of Ireland and all parts of
England and Scotland.
For fares and full information, see time tables and guides* or apply to the undersigned,
^ EDWARD J. COTTON, General Manager.
Belfast and Northern Counties Railway,
Belfast, 1887.'
Railway Routes.
41
London & North-Western Railway
WEST COAS-T AND ROYAL MAIL ROUTE.
The Express and Mail Trains of the London and North-Western Railway
Company run from LONDON, Euston Station, to all the chief towns in
SCOTLAND, THE NORTH OF ENCLAND,
IRELAND AND WALES,
INCLUDING
LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BIRMINGHAM, CHESTER,
NORTHAMPTON, LEAMINGTON, WOLVERHAMPTON,
SHREWSBURY, HEREFORD, SWANSEA, HOLYHEAD,
HUDDERSFIELDS, LEEDS, EDINBURGH, GLASGOW,
PERTH, ABERDEEN, INVERNESS, DUNDEE.
( London (Euston) and Birmingham under 3 hours.
Express Services •< London (Euston) and Manchester in 4) hours.
( London (Euston) and Liverpool in 4} hours.
1st, and, and 3rd class passengers conveyed by all trains, except the Irish Mails.
Drawing Room Carriages and Sleeping Saloons,
accompanied by an attendant,
fitted with lavatory accommodation, and provided with every modern
convenience, are run by certain express trains between
LONDON AND LIVERPOOL, LONDON AND MANCHESTER,
AND LONDON AND EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, PERTH, &c.
Many of the First Class Carriages are also fitted with Lavatories,
TOURISTS" ARRANGEMENTS, 1887.
1st. 2nd- and 3rd Class Tourist Tickets
are issued during the Season (May 16th to October 31st) from the
company's principal stations, to
SCOTLAND, THE ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, IRELAND,
NORTH, SOUTH, AND CENTRAL WALES, MALVERN,
BUXTON, SCARBOROUGH, HARROGATE, SOUTHPORT,
BLACKPOOL, MORECAMBE, ISLE OF MAN, ISLE OF WIGHT,
JERSEY AND GUERNSEY.
TOURIST PROGRAMMES, with particulars of circular and other
tours, and all information, may he obtained on application to Mr.
G. P. NEELE, Superintendent of the Line, Euston Station, or at any of
the company s railway Stations and parcels receiving offices.
PICNIC PARTIES. CHEAP RETURN TICKETS
will (with certain exceptions) be issued at all the principal stations, to parties
of not less than SIX 1st class, or TEN and or 3rd dass passengers.
desirous of making PLEASURE EXCURSIONS to
Plaees of Interest on the London and North-Western Railway.
The tickets will be available for return the same day only.
Full particulars can be obtained at any of the company's stations.
EXCURSION TRAINS
at very low fares will run at intervals during the summer season to and
from LONDON, LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, YORKSHIRE,
CHESTER, BIRMINGHAM, SHREWSBURY, LANCASTER,
CARLISLE, and the ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT, and all the
I principal parts of the London and North-Western system, particulars of which
I will be announced about .fourteen days.prior to the runhjug of the trains,
j London, Euston Station, April, 1887. G. FINDLAY, General Manager.
Serfs*
42
Railway Routes.
MIDLAND RAILWAY.
The POPULAR TOURIST and'DIRECT ROUTE to
EDINBURGH & GLASGOW,
via SETTLE AND CARLISLE.
The Midland Company's improved service of EXPRESS and PAST
TRAINS run from
LONDON (ST. PANCRAS STATION) -
to the principal towns in the
MIDLAND COUNTIES, NORTH OF ENGLAND, AND SCOTLAND,
including
Edinburgh, Manchester, Sheffield, Birmingham,
Glasgow, Leeds, Nottingham, Leicester,
Carlisle, Bradford, Derby, Northampton,
Liverpool, York, Burton, Bedford.
The TRAINS between LONDON and MANCHESTER and LIVER¬
POOL run by the PICTURESQUE ROUTE through MATLOCK
and the PEAK of DERBYSHIRE; those between LONDON and
EDINBURGH and GLASGOW by the POPULAR " SETTLE and
CARLISLE ROUTE," through the beautiful VALLEY of the EDEN ;
the trains between CARLISLE and EDINBURGH, passing MELROSE
through the " WAVERLEY DISTRICT," rendered interesting by
the writings of Sir Walter Scott; and those between CARLISLE and
GLASGOW through DUMFRIES and the district rendered attractive
by the writings of Burns.
The MIDLAND COMPANY'S EXPRESS TRAINS are formed of
carriages of the newest and most improved type, fitted with every appliance
to ensure the comfort and convenience of passenger while travelling ; and
these Trains are all fitted with an efficient continuous automatic brake.
PULLMAN PARLOUR CARS run daily between London (St.
Pancras) and Carlisle, Glasgow (and Edinburgh, during the summer), Man¬
chester, and Liverpool, attached to the DAY EXPRESS TRAINS; and
PASSENGERS HOLDING FIRST-CLASS TICKETS are allowed to
ride in them WITHOUT EXTRA PAYMENT.
PULLMAN SLEEPING CARS run nightly between London (St.
Pancras) and Carlisle, Stranraer, Greenock, Glasgow, Edinburgh, Manchester
and Liverpool. Passengers can obtain berths in these cars on payment of a
SMALL CHARGE, IN ADDITION to the FIRST CLASS FARE.
An attendant accompanies both the Day and Night Cars, which are provided
with lavatory accommodation, and comfortably heated during the winter.
TOURIST TICKETS are issued by the Midland Company during the
Summer Months from all principal stations on their system to the chief places of tourist
resort and interest in ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, and WALES. Tourist
Programmes and all information may be obtained on application to the Superintendent
of the Line, Derby, or at any of the company's stations.
PICNIC PARTIES.—Cheap Return Tickets are (with certain
exceptions) issued, oa application at all the principal stations, to Parties of not less than
SIX FIRST-CLASS, or TEN THIRD-CLASS PASSENGERS, desirous of making
Pleasure excursions to places of interest on the Midland Railway, the tickets being
available for return the same day only. Full particulars may be obtained at the stations.
EXCURSION TRAINS, at very low fares, will run at intervals
during the summer season to and from LONDON, LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER,
LEEDS, BRADFORD, SHEFFIELD, BIRMINGHAM, DERBY. NOTTINGHAM,
LEICESTER and other principal stations on the Midland system, particulars of which
will be announced about fourteen days prior to the running of each train.
THIRD-CLASS PASSENGERS conveyed by all trains at
PENNY-PER-MILE FARES. The company are general carriers to and from all parts
of ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, aad WALES.
Derby, 1887. JOHN NOBLE. General Manauw.
Railway Routes.
43
GLASGOW & SOUTH WESTERN-RAILWAY.
direct route between
SCOTLAND & ENGLAND,
Vid THE GLASGOW AND SOUTH-WESTERN and MIDLAND
RAILWAYS,
giving a Direct and Expeditious Service between
Glasgow, Greenock, Paisley, Ayr, Ardrossan, Fairlie,
Largs, Kilmarnock, Dumfries, &c.,
and
Liverpool, Manchester, Bradford, Leeds, Sheffield,
Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, London, and all Stations in
England and Wales.
PULLMAN DRAWING-R0OM and SLEEPING CARS
are run by the Morning and Evening Express Trains
BETWEEN GLASSOW AND LONDON.
a Pullman Sleeping Car is also attached to the Evening Train
BETWEEN GREENOCK AND LONDON.
There is no extra charge for use of Drawing-Room Cars, but a small
additional payment is made for Sleeping Cars, particulars of which can be
ascertained at the stations.
FIRTH of CLYDE & WEST HIGHLANDS,via GREENOCK.
EXPRESS TRAINS are run at convenient hours between
GLASGOW AND GREENOCK,
(St. Enoch. Station) (Princes Pier Station)
in direct connection with the far-famed
" COLU MB A," "IONA," " LORD OF
THE ISLES,"
and other steamers, sailing to and from
KIRN, DUNOON, INNELLAN, ROTHESAY, KYLES OF BUTE,
ARDRISHAIG, OBAN, INVERARAY,
KILCREGGAN, KILMUN, LOCHGOILHEAD, GARELOCHHEAD,
and the
WESTERN HIGHLANDS AND ISLANDS OF SCOTLAND.
ARRAN AND THE AYRSHIRE COAST.
An Express Train Service is given between GLASGOW (St. Enoch),
PAISLEY, and TROON, PRESTWICK, AYR, ARDROSSAN,
FAIRLIE, LARGS, &c.
From ARDROSSAN, the splendid saloon steamer, " SCOTIA," sails
daily to and from the ISLAND OF ARRAN, in connection with the
Express Trains.
Far particulars as to Trains and Steamers, see the Company's Time
Tables.
JOHN MORTON,
Secretary and General Manager's Office, Secretary and General Manager.
Glasgow, April, 1887.
44
Railway Routes.
SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY.
ROYAL MAIL AND SHORT SEA ROUTES:
FOLKESTONE AND BOULOGNE;
DOVER AND CALAIS; DOVER AND OSTEND.
NINE CONTINENTAL SERVICES DAILY.
TERMINI IN LONDON:
CHARING CROSS ) f CANNON STREET
(west end) ) ( (city).
LONDON AND PARIS IN EIGHT HOURS,
by spectal express, daily.
Fixed Hour Services, vi& Folkestone and Boulogne, saving
in distance twenty-eight miles; sea passage, seventy-five minutes.
ALSOJY
MAIL TRAINS AND PACKETS,
vid Dover and Calais,
IN NINE HOURS.
Brussels, Cologne, Berlin, St. Petersburg, Vienna, Munich, Naples, Turin,
Venice, Rome, Brindisi, Marseilles, and most of the Chief Continental
Cities and Towns, with equally quick travelling.
THROUGH TICKETS ISSUED AND BAGGAGE REGISTERED,
through rates for ordinary parcels and merchandise,
by passenger (Grande Vitesse) trains, under the direct sanction and control
of the South-Eastern and Northern of France Railway Companies. The rates
include all charges for shipping, landing, &c. (customs duties excepted), at
the respective ports and delivery at either end (within the usual limits).
Parcels forwarded by this service from London in the afternoon are de¬
livered the following day in Paris, where the customs examination takes
place, thus avoiding any detention at the ports.
Parcels are also forwarded by this route to all the principal towns on the
Continent, and from all the principal towns in the north of England and
Scotland, and vice versd.
Special through tariffs for bullion and value parcels to and from Paris,
Belgium, Holland, &c., including all charges for shipping, customs formalities,
&c., are also in operation.
Rates for insurance of value parcels, such as^olate, jewellery, deeds, &c.,
&c., against sea and all other risks.
Books of these tariffs complete on application.
The SOUTH-EASTERN RAILWAY COMPANY, by special appoint¬
ment by the General Post Office, convey the MAILS FOR THE CONTI¬
NENT, INDIA, CHINA, and the COLONIES, vid the MONT CENIS
and BRINDISI. Through tickets are issued to passengers for the principal
cities and towns in—
BELGIUM, I AUSTRIA, I RUSSIA,
SWITZERLAND, | GERMANY, | ITALY, &c.
Agency—PARIS Capt. Gye, R.N., 4. Boulevard des Italiens.
,, BRUSSELS .. Mr. E. Uytborck, 46, Montagne de la Cour.
,, COLOGNE... Mr. E. Uytborck, 1, Friederich Wilhelm Strasse.
,, BOULOGNE Mr. Henry Farmer, Quai Chanzy.
,, CALAIS Mr. C. Zwinger, Railway Station.
tt OSTEND Mr. E. Uytborck, No. 1, Rue St. Georges.
See TIME BOOKS, to be had on application.
MYLES FENTON, General Manager.
Railway Routes.
45
GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY.
TOURIST ARRANGEMENTS.
FIRST, SECOND, and THIRD CLASS
TOURIST-TICKETS
Available for TWO MONTHS, and RENEWABLE, ■with exceptions, up
to December31st, upon payment of the difference between the Tourist Fare
and the cost of Two Single Tickets, are issued during the summer months
of each year, in LONDON, at the
PADDINGTON, WESTBOURNE PARK, NOTTING HILL,
LATIMER ROAD, UXBRIDGE ROAD, HAMMERSMITH,
SHEPHERD'S BUSH, KENSINGTON, EARL'S COURT,
SOUTH KENSINGTON, VICTORIA, BLACKER IARS, WEST-
MINSTER BRIDGE, CHARING CROSS, MANSION HOUSE,
KING'S CROSS, MOORGATE STREET, FARRINGDON
STREET, BISHOPSGATE STREET, & ALDGATE STATIONS;
AND AT ALL PRINCIPAL STATIONS ON THE RAILWAY,
To the well-known watering and other places of attraction in the WEST OF ENGLAND,
including
CLEVEDON, DARTMOUTH, DAWLISH, DEVONPORT, EXETER*
FALMOUTH, FOWEY, ILFRACOMBE, LYNMOUTH, LYNTON*
MINEHEAD, NEW QUAY, PAIGNTON, PENZANCE, PLYMOUTH*
SCILLY ISLANDS, ST. IVES, TEK3NMOUTH, TORQUAY, WESTON-
SUPER-MARE, DORCHESTER, WEYMOUTH, CHANNEL ISLES, &c-
To North and South Wales, including
ABERYSTWITH, BARMOUTH, BETTWS-Y-COED, BLAENAU-
FESTINIOG, DOLGELLY, LLANDUDNO, RHYL, CHEP6TOW,
CARDIGAN, TLNTERN, SWANSEA, TENBY, NEW MILFORD, &c.
To English Lakes and Derbyshire Districts, including
WINDERMERE, FURNESS ABBEY, CONISTON, GRANGE,
BOWNESS, AMBLESIDE, BUXTON, and MATLOCK.
And to ISLE OF MAN,
WATERFORD, CORK, LAKES OF KILLARNEY, DUBLIN, &c.
Passengers holding first or second class tourist tickets to the principal stations in the
West of England can travel by the 11.45 ^m» fest train from Paddington, which reaches
Exeter in four hours and a quarter, and Plymouth in six hours and ten minutes; or by the
3.0 p.m. fast train from Paddington, which reaches Exeter in the same time, and
Plymouth in five hours and fifty-flvamiiiutes.
Tourists by the Great Western Line—the broad guage route to the West of England
—pass through the most picturesque scenery in Devonshire and Cornwall, extending
from Exeter to Plymouth, Falmouth, St. Ives, Penzance, and the Land's End; while the
broad-gauge carriages running in ^ the fast express trains to and from the West of
England, for which they have been specially built, are the finest railway carriages in
ordinary use in the kingdom.
Holders of tourist tickets are allowed to break their journey at several stations.
en route, and visit at their leisure places of interest in the vicinity. The holders of
ordinary tickets between London and Exeter, and places west thereof, are also allowed,
both in summer and winter, to break their journey at Bafh, Bristol, Taunton, or Exeter,
and proceed the next day, an arrangement which conduces largely to the comfort of
invalids and others, to whom a lengthened railway journey is objectionable.
Family carriages (witn lavatories and other conveniences), containing compartments
for servants, can be engaged on payment of not less than four first-class and four second-
class fares. Application for these carriages should be made to the Superintendent of the
Line, Paddington, some days before the proposed date of the journey, in order to pre¬
vent disappointment.
For particulars of the various circular tours, fares, cmd other infor¬
mation see the Company's Tourist Programme, which, can be obtained at
the stations and booking offices.
J. GRIERSON, General Manager.
Sorips
5
46 Raihury Koines.
Great Sonthern & Western Railway, Ireland.
LAKES OF KILLA RN EY.
RAILWAY HOTEL
adjoins Lord Kenmarb's demesne, and is situated withic easy distance o
Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Grounds, the Gap of Dunloe, and thi
principal points of interest.
This hotel, the largest in the Lake district, possesses unusually good accoi
modation for tourists and families, including spacious and well tuioi»h«o
ladies'drawing-room, writing, reception, billiard, smoking, dining, and pnvatr
sitting-rooms. All the public and private sitting-rooms are provided wilt,
pianofortes.
LAWN TENNIS IN THE HOTEL GROUNDS.
The Porters of tbe Hotel await the arrival of eacn Train
for the removal of Luggage, Sc.
The manager personally undertakes the formation of Excursion Parties,
with a view to their comfort and economy.
The Lakes afford excellent Salmon and Trout
Fishing.
Boats, Carriages, Ponies, drv., with steady Attendants, always
ready for engagement.
Boatmen, Guides, Drivers, and other Servants of the Hotel are paid
ample wages, and are not permitted to solicit Visitors for gratuities.
A Wagonette will run from 1st June to 30th
September between the Hotel and Eos3
Castle. Fare, 6d. each way.
From May to October.
TOURIST TICKETS
FROM DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY AND BACK
are issued by the Trains which run direct to Killarney at the following fares,
viz. FIRST CLASS. SECOND CLASS
Single Ticket for One Passenger .. £2 10 0 £2 0 0
Ditto Two Passengers .. 4 10 0 3 12 0
Ditto Three „ « 676 520
8 0 0 6 8 0
9 7 6 7 10 0
- 10 10 0 8 8 0
11 7 6 9 2 0
12 0 0 9 12 0
Available for return on any day WITHIN ONE CALENDAR
MONTH.
The time of these tickets can be extended upon the terms stated in the
Company's Tourist Programme.
N.B.- Tickets to KILLARNEY can be obtained at the principal stations
on the London and North Western, Midland, Great Western, Lancashire
and Yorkshire, Manchester Sheffield and Lincolnshire, North Staffordshire,
Caledonian, and North British Railways, and Rail ways in Ireland.
(c.1nc.sbk1dgb, du3l1«.
Ditto Four
Ditto Five
Ditto Six
Ditto Seven
Ditto Eight
For Home and Export.
-•"J «
OOEM
_ c
tfO rt
nO«
Q° r
§>®
o£i
:=2i
%-
m
v Xofc \StEl OF W/CAJ-\i
^ BY EMINENT
w*'~
o i » a rv r* a a r\ h r< f
>° HOPUOOD & G»>
NUTRITIVE AND SEDATIVE
V -CREAM „ A.
0\ r%
5J<
» 3
" S.
H
Si
<Ropal 3lfttrr£ patent.
ROBINSON'S CELEBRATED
INVALID COUCHES.
No home should be without one of these invaluable Couches.
To the sick "they will prove a positive blessing, and their con¬
struction serves all the purposes of a Lounge for those in the,
best of health. {See Testimonials.)
Illustrated Catalogue of all kinds of Invalid Furniture free on
application to
ROBINSON & SONS, llkley, Yorkshire.
COMIC HOLIDAY BOOKS.
Demy 8vo, with Illustrations, picture wrapper, price Is. each.
Beeton's Anecdote, Wit
and Humour.
Beeton's Jokes and Jests.
The Funny Fellow's Comic
Holiday Book.
Fun for Everybody.
5 Fun for All.
6 Fun for the Million.
7 Funny People,or Character
Sketches.
8 Three WonderfulTravel-
lers.
At all Booksellers' and Railway Bookstall*.
London: WARD, LOCK & Co., Salisbury Square, E.C.
Uuide Book Advertise*.
49
HARROGATE,
THE QUEEN OF INLAND WATERING PLACES,
IS situate upon lofty table-land, in the West Riding of Yorkshire, twenty
miles from York, nearly the same distance from Leeds and Bradford, two
hundred miles from London and Edinburgh, and seventy miles each from
the German Ocean and the Irish Channel. Placed in the centre of the
island, at an altitude of four to six hundred feet above sea level, it possesses
an atmosphere remarkable alike for purity, dryness, and all the invigorating
salubrity of true highland air.
Harrogate is a place of many waters, possessing springs which in numb er
and variety are positively unique. In no other health resort in Europe (if
in the world) are found MEDICINAL SPRINGS approaching in number
and variety those of this favoured place. Within an area of two miles, there
are fully
Eighty Springs of Mineral Waters,
of almost' every kind, ranging from mild and strong sulphurs to the most
powerful chalybeate known to analysts.
The Peerless Climatic Advantages
of Harrogate, coupled with the unexampled curative range of its mineral
waters, unquestionably place it in the very forefront of British health
resorts. The Registrar-General's returns during the last seven years show—
The Annual Death Rate to be 13.8 per Thousand
per annum, being lower, we believe, than any other watering place in the
United Kingdom. It will readily be understood, therefore, that Harrogate
waters are effectual ia the cure of a wide range of diseases, especial!)'
those of the skin, scurvy, rheumatism, and the distressing series arising
from nerve exhaustion, "jaded brain," &c. For the successful treatment
of these and other disorders, there are
Handsome Pump Rooms,
where the various kinds of water are dispensed,
Bathing Establishments
of the most complete and varied character, such as the Yictoria Baths and
others, and Turkish Baths,
at several hydropathic establishments ; whilst tourists who visit Harrogate for
recreation will find hotels, boarding houses, and lodging houses, fully equal
to those of any other health resort, together with
The Spa Concert Rooms and Pleasure Grounds,
The Theatre, St. James' Hall, Montpelier
Pleasure Grounds, &c.
Harrogate is also the centre of a district remarkably rich in
Antiquities, Natural and Rural Beauties, Ac.,
including the ancient city of York, and the still more ancient Aldboro', the
castles of Knaresboro, Ripley, Harewood, Gilling, Richmond. &c., the
abbeys of Bolton, Fountains, Jervaulx, Rievaulx, &c., the valleys of the
Wharfe, the Nidd, and the Ure, Brimham Rocks, Ilkley, Plumpton Rocks,
&&« &C.
The principal springs of the town, together with the Royal Pump Room
and the Victoria Baths, belong to the Corporation of Harrogate, and the Town
Clerk (Mr. W. HENRY WYLES) will supply any information required.
5°
VALUABLE
FAMILY
&
MEDICINES
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
Whelpton's Pills and Ointment.
WHELPTON'S PILLS
have long been known
and recognised as the
best Family Medicine.
Testimonials are con.
stantly being received
of their value in Dis¬
orders of the Head,
Chest, Bowels, Liver, A
Kidneys; also Rheuma¬
tism, Ulcers, and many
Skin Diseases.
The Ointment iWHELP-
TON'S HEALING
i OINTMENT) stands un
rivalled for the cure of
Cuts, Burns, Scalds,
Chilblains, Chapped
Hands, Pimples, Boils,
Ulcers, Sores, Inflamed
Eyes, and all Skin Dis¬
eases. It is specific in
Eczema.
Pills and Ointment
sold in Boxes, at 7'/id.,
lr. I'/it/., and 2f. 9,/., by
the Proprietors. G.
WHELPTON & SON, 3,
Crane Court, Fleet St.,
E.C., or sent Free in the
United Kingdom for 8,
14, or 33 Stamps.
Sold by all Chemists and
Medicine Vendors.
xj tade"book a a i 'ertiser. 51
ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA.
"England's central garden"—a tkle It may justly and proudly claim—Is acknow¬
ledged by all whose good fortune it has been to visit or reside in it to be the most
charming inland watering place in the country. Its mild and salubrious air—its valuable
and health-restoring mineral springs and baths—its extensive ornamental grounds and
gardens—the wide and well-kept streets and avenues, the latter branching off in every
direction through the suburbs of the town—the magnificent Parade, teeming at all
seasons of the year with life and gaiety—all combine to render the " Royal Spa " a most
delightful place to live in. Referring to the health of the Royal Spa, the returns of the
Registrars-General have time after time proved it to be one of the healthiest of all
towns in the kingdom* To obtain this result, nothing has been spared by the town
authorities as regards sanitary measures and supplying the borough with an abundant
and pure supply of water.
THE
ROYAL. PUMP ROOMS AND BATHS
are a great attraction to the residents and visitors, and below will be found particulars ef
this favourite resort. The spring at the Pump Room has been found by recent analysis
to contain 32 grains more saline matter to the pint than any other spring in the town.
TABLE OF AVERAGE CONTENTS, WITHOUT DECIMAL FRACTION, OF AN
IMPERIAL riNT OF THE LEAMINGTON MINERAL WATERS.
Saline Springs.
Sulphuretted Saline Springe.
Salts. Grains
Sulphate of soda . . . 38
Chloride of sodium . ... 35
Chloride of calcium . ... 15
Chloride of magnesium ... 9
Peroxide of iron, iodine, and bromide Of
sodium, In minute quantities.
Gases. Grains.
Sulphuretted hydrogen . . s'144
Carbonic add .... 3*156
Oxygen *035
Nitrogen *435
About one pint of water in the day Is the usual quantity taken when Its aperient
effect is desired. The early period of the morning is generally chosen for its adminis¬
tration—one half being reserved nntil twenty minutes' brisk exercise has followed the
first dose ; but its adoption requires particular rules In individual cases, according to
their peculiarities, of which the resident medical men are the best judges. Great benefits
result in its administration in derangement of the digestive functions, visceral ob¬
structions, cutaneous diseases. Paralytic affections, gout, and rheumatism generally
relieved by a course of bathing In combination with the Internal use of the water and
other means.
subscription to the pump room.
Salts. Grains.
Sulphate of soda . . . . 3s
Chloride of sodium .... 30
Chloride of calcium .... 33
Chloride of magnesium . . .it
Silica, peroxide of iron. Iodine, and bro¬
mide oi sodium, in minute quantities.
Gases.
Carbonic acid, 3 grains; oxygen and
nitrogen in minute proportions.
FAMILY SUBSCRIPTIONS.
t. d. I s. 4.
One year .15 o I One month . 5 o
Six months . to 6 1 One week . 4 o
Three months 7 6 |
SINGLB SUBSCRIPTIONS.
r. d. | S.d.
One year .10 6 I One month . 3 •
Six months . 7 6 | One week .to
Three months 5 0 |
Strangers and Visitors, not Subscribers, 3d. each.
Hot and Cold Saline Baths.—Hot Bath, 21-., or twelve fon&r.; second
class, is.; third class, id. Lamp and Vapour Baths, as. 6d, each. Cold Bath, Douche
Bath, or Shower Bath, is. each.
Swimming Bath.—This fine bath has an area of to feet by 30 feet, a depth
varying from 3 to 6 feet, contains a large portion of saline water, and is kept at a
temperature of about 70 degrees. Single admission, 6d.; twelve tickets, sr.; twenty
four, pr. Schools, including towels, 4d. each. Ditto, exclusive of ditto, id. each. The
swimming bath Is devoted exclusively or the use of ladles every Tuesday and Friday
morning from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Turkish Bath.—This handsome bath has been thoroughly embellished and
fittedup with alt the most recent Improvements, and heated by Whittaker and Constantlne's
patent convoluted stove. Single tickets, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., 2r. each; ditto, from
5 p.m. to 7 pan., it. each. The oath is kept exclusively fbr ladies on Tuesday in each week.
The Largb Assembly Room is supplied with daily papers fog the use of sub-
6 a
ca
Cfcttlsior ^Storks, Qofotttrj, €[ttglsmi».
Illustrated Price Lists, Free by Post, on Application.
y.
WARD, LOCK & CO.'S
Hotel, Hsbropatfjic (Kstablislntttnt,
AND
loathing Hmtss jBirwirrrg. -
1887.
J?
A
ENGLAND AND WALES.
PaS
Bangor ,
Barrow-in-Furness
Berwick-on-Tweed
Buxton
Colwyn Bay .
Derby
Douglas (I. of M.>53-59
Exeter
Ufracombe
Ilkley
57
57-8
58
Page
. 60
59
. 61
62
. 63
62
64-5
65
Belfast
Cork .
Aberdeen
Banavie
Blair Athol .
Blairgowrie
Bridge of Allan
Callander .
Dundee
Dunoon
Edinburgh .
Page
• 71
70
Page
• 73
73
• 74
74
• 75
75
• 75
76
76, 78
Terse)' .
Leamington
Liverpool
Llandudno
London
Lynton •
Matlock
Penzance .
Ramsey (I. of Man) 59
IRELAND.
Page
Giant's Causeway 71
Killarney . 46, 71
SCOTLAND.
Page
79
• 77
Elgin
Glasgow
Glen Affric
Glen Urquhart
Inverness ,
Loch Awe
Loch Katrine
Loch Lomond
Loch Ness
79-80
. 80
82
. ?o
Page
Redcar . . 65
Scarborough . . 66
Shanklin(l.ofWight) 58
Stratford-on-Avon 66
Southport . . 67-8
Ulverston . . 69
Virginia Water . 68
Warwick . . 68
Windermere . 69
Newry .
Wicklow
Page
• 72
72
Page
82
New ton Stewart
Oban . . 82-3
Rothesay (I. of Bute) 77
St. Boswell's . 85
Strathpeffer Spa . 84
Taynuilt . , 84
Wemyss Bay . 85
elsihore private hotel,
tla^ VICTORIA ROAD,
DOUGLAS, ISLE OF MAN.
Mrs. FERGUSSON.
•^jasigu
54
Ba ngor—Ba rrow—Berwick.
BRITISH HOTEL, 1
NEAR THE RAILWAY STATION,
B AIT GO IR>,
north wales.
HANDSOME COFFEE ROOM,
PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS. LADIES' DRAWING ROOM.
BILLIARD ROOM, with Two Excellent Tables,
new slyeCEEdzero- laooiyn.
POSTING AND LIVERY STABLES.
Carriages of every description for Hire, with steady
Drivers, well acquainted with the Country.
An Omnibus meets all Trains, conveying Visitors free
of charge to and from the Hotel. ..
BROWN & PUGHE,
WINE AND SPIRIT MERC HANTS,
proprietors
•pHS (JEORGE 2JGTEL,
BANGOR FERRY,
Overlooking the Bridges. N"ORTffl[ WALES.
DELIGHTFULLY SITUATED IN ITS OWN EXTENSIVE GROUNDS.
THE BEST AND MOST CENTRAL
HOTEL IN NORTH WALES.
Revised Tariff on application to W. DEEDLEY" DANCE.
sansom's wayerley _
-*a*- temperance hotel,
BARROW-IN-FURNESS.
ONE MINUTE'S WALK FROM THE STATION.
BILLIARDS. AN ORDINARY.
Comfort and Economy Studied.
berwick.-oi\r-twbbd. v.
KING'S ARMS HOTEL & Posting House,
FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.
The Hotel Omnibus meets tbe Trains.
john carr,
Buxton. 55
THE
BUXTON HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
AND WINTER RESIDENCE
(MALVERN HOUSE), DERBYSHIRE.
Overlooking the Public Garden, and within four minutes' walk of the "Rail¬
way stations and celebrated mineral baths.
Telegraphic Address, " HYDRO., BUXTON." Table d'Hote at 6 o'clock
The establishment is heated throughout, and is in every way suitable
. for invalids and visitors.
For Terms, &c., apply tS the PROPRIETOR.
GEORGE HOTEL,
BUXTON. 7
UNDER ENTIRELY NEW MANAGEMENT.
Public Dining and Drawing Rooms ; Reading, Smokk
and Billiard Rooms ; Private Sitting Rooms and
Rooms, en Suite.
TABLE D'HOTE AT SIX p.m.
The hotel is detached, pleasantly situated with southern aspect, is close
to Baths, Gardens, Church, and Railway Stations, and has special suites
of rooms, without staircases, for invalids.
MILL and TYACK, Proprietors.
GROSVENOR PRIVATE HOTEL,
BROAD WALK, BUXTON,
{Late Brian Bates),
ADJOINING & OVERLOOKING THE CELEBRATED GARDENS
AND CLOSE TO THE MINERAL WELLS AND BATHS.
The most convenient and central situation in the Town.
COMFORTABLE SMOKING ROOM.
Reduced Prices from October ist to April 3oth.
THE PEAK HYDROPATHIC
RESIDENCE FOR VISITORS,
BUXTON,
Resident Physician: Dr. S. HYDE,
• - The only Establishment where
- t H E BUXTON PEAK CURE
is carried out. Efficacious in Rheumatism, Gout, Sciatica, Lumbago, &c.
Turkish, Russian, Electric, and other Baths.
Lawn Tennis, Billiards, &c. All Baths Free to Patients, Terms moderate and
Inclusive. Apply to
THE MANAGERESS.
Series
8
Colwyn Bay—Derby.
COLWYN BAY HYDROPATHIC
AND
_ WINTER. RESIDENCE.
NORTH WALES.
Turkish, Vapour, Sea Water, and other Baths.
BILLIARDS. LAWN TENNIS. For Terms, apply to Manageress.
GLEDHILL'S
Post Office Hotel and Restaurant,
VICTORIA STREET, DERBY.
(Next Door to the Post Office).
Dinners and Teas a la carte, daily
ST. JAMES'S HOTEU
. -Mc DERBY,
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL
IN the centre of the town, facing the Corn Market and Post
Office. The Sitting, Commercial, and Bed Rooms are large
and lofty, and re-decorated throughout. Hot and Cold Baths
on every floor. A Larce Hall for Concerts and Wedding
Breakfasts, &c. The Stabling is new and extensive.
J. WAGSTAFF, Proprietor.
jtsxeur—njracomhe.'
ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL,
THE MOST CENTRAL & COMFORTABLE HOTEL IN
EXETER.
With Full View of the Grand Old Cathedral.
.. PATRONISED BY THE BEST FAMILIES.
SUITES OF APARTMENTS. LADIES' COFFEE ROOM.
BILLIARD ROOM. HOT AND COLD BATHS.
Omnibuses and Cabs meet evsty Train*
MODERATE TARIFF. J. HEADON STANBURY. Proprietor.
ROUGEMONT HOTEL,
EXETER,
v" DEVON AND EXETER HOTEL Co., Limited.
THE LARGEST AND'ONLY MODERN HOTEL IN
THE CITY.
(Opposite NORTHERNHAY PARK).
Table d'Hote, 7 o'clock.
T. W. HUSSEY, Manager.
The Belgrave Hotel,
ILFRACOMBE,
A FIRST CLASS FAMILY HOTEL*
Tariff on application to the Proprietor.
FOSTER'S PRIVATE HOTEL
AND
BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT,
10, MARKET STREET,
ILFRACOMBE.
{CLOSE TO THE SEA.)
noted for •
CUISINE, COMFORT. CLEANLINESS.'
NO INTOXICANTS. FIRST CtASS.
- . . .1 rrr-T—
GARDNER'S MONTEBELLO BOARDING HOUSE,
30, FORE STREET, ILFRACOMBE.
Private Dining and Sitting Rooms.
First Class Bedroom Accommodation
CHARGES MODERATE.
53
Ilfracomle—llldey— Isle of Wight.
ilfracombe.
ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL
(OLD ESTABLISHEDJ
has recently been rebuilt with extra Bedroom accommodation, commodiotrj
Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing Room, handsome Commercial Room and
good Stock Room.
Billiards. Omnibus meets every Train.
Tariff on application. Special Terms for Boarding.
C-HAS. ED. CLEMOW, Proprietor.
crivigkl^ajstids
Hydropathic Establishment
ILKLEY, vik LEEDS, YORKS.
I Resident Physician : HENRY DOBSON,M.D., C.M. (Edin.)
Established twenty-five years ago, and since three times enlarged,
Craiglands can now accommodate over 170 patients and visitors.
It occupies a superior and sheltered position, possesses beautiful
pleasure grounds, an experienced resident physician, most ex¬
tensive and complete suites of NEW BATHS, magnificent
recreation hall for patients in wet weather, a liberal diet, and
all the appointments of a first-class sanatorium, together with
a MOST REASONABLE AND INCLUSIVE TARIFF. Eer week—
Patients, £2 7s. to£2 14J.; Visitors, £1 i8j. 6d. to £2 5*> 6d,.
REDUCED WINTER TERMS.
Fall Prospectus on application to the Manager,
HOLLIERS HOTEL
SHANKLIN, I. W.
fUNDER ENTIRELY NEW AND IMPROVED MANAGEMENT)
1LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET GROUNDS.
Omnibus meets all Trains.
ERNEST G. BOEHME,
Proprietor.
Isle of Man—Leamington.
59
ROYAL ■'*& " HOT EL, I
DOUGLAS, ISLE OF MAN, |
" SAM IiOMAS, PROPRIETOR. |
MELROSE HOUSE,'
14, LOCH PROMENADE,
Douglas, Isle of Man.
Terms from 5/6 to 6/6 per day, inclusive-
PRIVATE BOARDING HOUSE, f
Conducted by Mrs. Brainsby.
YIIiliE B0WDITO K0ligE,
% allure flatxtUQ
PLEASANTLY SITUATED-FACING THE SEA. ISLE OF MAN.
j Terms moderate and inclusive on application to Mrs. PAIN, Proprietress.!
THE REGENT HOTEL;
LEAMINGTON.
A First-Class Family and Hunting Establishment.
FLYS AND OMNIBUS
Meet all the G. W. and L. and N. W. Train*.
POSTING, &c.
L. BISHOP, Proprietor.
LEAMINGTON,
THE CROWN HOTEL,
Close to Great Western Railway Station.
FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.
Ladies' Coffee Room. Billiard Room.
J. E. STANLEY, Proprietor.
STAR HOTEL, JERSEY, C
Pleasantly situated near the Pier and Bathing Places.
HANNEL
ISLANDS.
Visitors receive all the comforts of home, with a most liberal
and unlimited table, at a fixed charge of
6»- PER DAY,
which includes bed ; breakfast of meat, fish, and eggs, &c.;
dinner—soup or fish, poultry,.joints, pastry, and cheese; tea.
Attendance included.
WINES AND SPIRITS; BOTTLE AND DRAUGHT
ALES AND STOUT.
CIGARS OF THE BEST QUALITY.
Superior Coffee aitfc JBtnfag Saloon.
PIANOFORTES FOR THE USE OF VISITORS.
Proprietress
Mrs. ADDERSON.
Conveyance waits the Arrival of all Steamers.
Four-in-Hand Cars leave the Hotel every day at 10.30, so*
Excursions through the Island.
Liverpool.
61
LAURENCE'S '
Temperance, Commercial, and Family
HOTEL,
20 & 2it CLAYTON SQUARE,
LIVERPOOL..
THIS Hotel contains upwards of 100 ROOMS, including
COFFEE ROOM, PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS.
BILLIARD and SMOKE ROOM. The BED ROOMS
are well ventilated and comfortably furnished.
The Midland and London and North-Western Stations
I are within three minutes' walk, and the Lancashire
[ and Yorkshire Station and Landing Stage
within a convenient distance.
LC HARGES STRICTLY MODERATE.^))
JLIVUJElIPOOIa:
SHAFTESBURY HOTEL,
MOUNT PLEASANT.
THIS TEMPERANCE HOTEL contains over a hundred rooms, com«
prising good Coffee Room, Ladies' Room, Smoke Room, and Commercial
Room 53 feet long, all on ground floor; also Stock Rooms, excellent Bed,
rooms, and Private Sitting Rooms.
Three minutes' walk from Central and Lime Street stations. Omnibuses
to all pai '5 of the city pass by or near the hoteL
Meat Tea, Breakjast, and Bedroom, from js. * day.
Freprk Gernisiw. aryh cnolrfn kicht pnvt*».
62
Llandudno—Lynlcn.
GRA IGSIDE HYDRO',
LLANDUDNO,
NORTH WALES.
JOHN SMITH, Proprietor. Dr. DALTON, Medical Superintendent.
Grounds.—The land covers an area of twelve acres, and
includes mountainous, sloping, and level ground, affording every
facility for tennis, bowling, and every exercise which may be
desired. The sea washes up to the foot of the grounds. The
windows of the establishment and terrace command fine views
of sea and mountain, and, by going up to the higher portion of
the grounds, magnificent views of Menai Straits, Isle of Angle-
sea, Puffen Island, and distant mountain views are obtained.
Accommodation.—All that a practical experience for the last
seventeen years can suggest has been thought of to make it accepta¬
ble to people who are accustomed to the comforts of a well-
arranged and comfortable home. The fronfage of the establishment
is 225 feet, and a depth of 50 feet, covering a ground area of nearly
13,000 square feet, and the whole of this ground area is used for
reception rooms, corridors, stairs, baths, and recreation rooms.
Tariff: 6s. to 9s. per Day.
All communications may be addressed to The Secretary,
Craigside Hydro', Llandudno.
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
TffE v V^IdiEY 0F v ReCKS * HeiFEIt.
THIS favourite
and beautifully
situated First-class
Hotel is built on one
of the finest sites in
the neighbourhood,
and largely patro¬
nised by the best
families. It has been
lately considerably
enlarged, remodelled,
and improved ; and
combines, with mode¬
rate charges, all ne¬
cessary means for the
accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splendid Table
d'Hote and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, Ladies' Drawing Room, and
several Private Sitting Rooms, replete with every comfort, range in a long
front overlooking the Sea, and looking into the extensive Private Grounds
of the Hotel. It is most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the
places of interest in the district.
BILLIARD ROOM OPEN during the Season for Residents
In the Hotel only.
POST HORSES AND CARRIAGES, Ac.
JOHN CROOK. ProtrieUr.
London
63
ORIGINALLY ESTABLISHED, A.D. 1850.
HORNER'S
Temperance Hotel,
19, EUSTON ROAD, KING'S CROSS,
LONDON, N.W.,
Opposite the Great Northern and Midland Stations.
VISITORS TO LONDON.
Tbanter's Temperance Hotel
7,8 $9, Bridgewater Square, Barbican, City, E. C.
MOST CENTRAL FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE.
Close to Aldersgate Street Metropolitan Railway Station, and near
St. Paul's Cathedral and General Post Office.
Homely, Highly Respectable, and Select; Bed from is. 6d;; Plain Breakfast
or Tea from is. No charge for attendance. Established 1859.
Strongly recommended.
Visitors' Guior to London—What to See, and How to See it in a Week
and Tariff Card free on application,
"WILD'S
TEMPERANCE HOtEL,
34 to 40, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C.
Home Comforts. Cleanliness and quiet. Central for business
or pleasure. Close to 'bus, rail, and steamboat,
and within a few minutes' walk of St. Paul's and other^
City sights.
williams' temperance hotel
MRS. WILLIAMS, of 20, KEPPEL STREET, Russell Square has
REMOVED her Business to
MOT AGUE HOUSE, 2) Montague Street, Russell Square, London.
(Two doors from City side of British Museum).
ESTABLISHED eight years ago at 20, Keppel Street. Theremovalis necessitated by
a constant increase of business. Montague House is a substantial and beautifully-
fitted Residence, with spacious Entrance Hall, and a garden in the rear. Overlooking
this ground, a very pleasant reading and writing room is a feature in the new premises
which will be appreciated by those who seek a quiet and cheerful resting-place in London.
Mrs. Williams is now able to offer her visitors superier accommodation, and invites a call
on next visit to London. Charges same as at Keppel Street. Tariff on application.
Telegraphic Address, "Faithful,'' London.
MiauocK.
MATLOCK HOUSE,
Hydropathic Establishment and Residence
for Visitors,
MATLOCK BRIDGE, DERBYSHIRE.
UNDER ENTIREL Y NEW MANAGEMENT.
Physician: Dr. W. MOXON, M.R.C.P., Edin.; M.R.C.S., Eng.
For Prospectus, apply to The Manager,
TAYLOR DAVIES.
Matlock—Penza nee—Redcar.
<5
SMEDLEY'S
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
MATLOCK.
ESTABLISHED, 1832.
Railway Station : MATLOCK BRIDGE.
Postal and Telegraph Address: MATLOCK BANK.
Physicians:
WILLIAM B. HUNTER, M.D., &c.
GEO. TENNANT, M.B., &c. (resident).
Founded by the late John Smedley upwards of thirty years ago, this establishment
has gone on increasing until, from an origin the most insignificant, it has became one of
the largest in the kingdom.
The Turkish and Russian Baths are specially adapted,in ventilation and management,
to the requirements of invalids, and the diet, meal hours, and general arrangements of
the house have special regard to the same, without being unnecessarily restricted.
An hydraulic lift gives access to the greater part of the bedroom flights. The
heating, ventilation, and sanitary arrangements are under constant and skilled super¬
vision. Amusements are promoted to the utmost, compatible with the primary purpose
1 of the place.
} For fuller particulars, see the Prospectus, to be had on application to the Matron.
PENZANCE.
MOUNT'S BAY HOTEL,
~ ON THE ESPLANADE. '
THIS old-established hotel commands a better view of Mount's Bay than
any other hotel m Penzance, as all the windows in the front and at
side have an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of all the bay and St.
Michael's Mount.
THE HOTEL 18 HEATED WITH HOT WATER. ^ HOT AND COLD BATHS.
Choice Wines, &c. Post Horses and Carriages.
TABLE D'HOTE. PORTER MEETS EACH TRAIN. CHARGES MODERATE.
Tekus and VittW on Application.
MRS. LAVIN, Profrutrts*.
REDCAR + BY + THE + SEA,
YORKSHIRE.
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
Established in 7858, by the late JONAH HORNER, M.D. *
THE house has a MAGNIFICENT VIEW of the GERMAN OCEAN
easy access to unrivalled firm sandy beach ; the air pure and
bracing ; SUITABLE AS A WINTER RESORT. Temperature, 6%9
Fahrenheit warmer in winter than inland, and 6YP cooler in summer.
SEA WATER BATHS. MOST COMFORTABLE AND REFINED HOME.
Terms, Winter, 28!- to 851-; Summer, 35/- to 42/- per week.
Medical Attendant, Dr. Day. Proprietress, Mrs. Poole,
66 Scarborough—Stratford-on-Avon,
the red horse
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL
hotel,
KNOWN TO AMERICANS AS
WASHINGTON IRV/NG'S HOTEL,
STRATFORD-ON-AVON.
FIRST-CLASS ACCOMMODATION AT MODERATE
CHARGES.
Hotel Omnibus meets the Trains,
BILLIARD ROOM WITH TWO TABLES.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. (|)J
STRATFORD-OX-AVON.
SHAKESPEARE HOTEL.
This old-established Hotel is centrally situated, being next door to the
Town Hall, a few minutes' walk from the house where Shakespeare was
born, five doors from where he died, and within five minutes' walk of the
grand old church where his remains lie buried.
billiard and BATH ROOMS.
C. JUSTINS, Proprietor,
THE BIRKDALE PARK "SMEDLEY" HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
SOPTHPORT.
- THE NEW
TURKISH
BATH,
THE
CELEBRATED
" Smedley'
BATHS
for
Ladies and
Gentlemen
have been
Itewly Erected
and arb
Most Spacious
and Attractive.
KREUZNACH
GALVANIC,
and
ELECTRO¬
CHEMICAL
BATHS.
with
SWIMMING
BATH
ATTACHE D,
is one of the
FINEST in the
KINGDOM,
AND IS
TREE
TO
RESIDENTS
IN THE
Establishment.
Consulting Physician—Dp. ERNEST BAENARDO.
The increased popularity of Southport is largely due to its climatic advantages as an Autumn and Winter Health Resort. The
sou is sandy, rainfall moderate, much sunshine, and clear sky: The establishment is heated throughout, and is most suitable for patients
an visitors in every way. por Prospectus of Terms, apply to Mr. J. W. GREW, Manager.
68 Southport—Virginia Water—VvurMick.
THE LIMES
TURKTSH
Electrical and
every variety of Baths,
Terms, &c., address, 6. Kenworthy. 1
Prefrittor. '
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
(Xr.i r the fromcnadt), ^ Vu
-
.SOUTHPORT'
RAILWAY HOTEL,
VIRGINIA WATER,
CLOSE TO THE STATION.
EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATION FOR
TOURISTS & EXCURSION PARTIES.
WILLIAM ROBERTS, Proprietor.
TEMPERANCE COMMERCIAL HOTEL,
Lowesmoor, Worcester.
(Five minutes' walk from Shrub Hill and FIregate Street Stations).
T. EDMONDS, Proprietor.
WARWICK.
WARWICK ARMS,
_ , FAMILY HOTEL.
Funerals; and Posting in all its Branches.
| HEADQUARTERS OF THE O.T.O. j
WOOLPACK HOTEL,
a
o
MARKET PLACE, _ g §
W
H
>
CD
WARWICK:
First-class family and commercial,
refurnished throughout. Loose Boxes. Well
patronised by Americans. Charges strictly moderate.
—_ANNE KNAPP, Proprietress."
| 'BUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. |
viverston— WindermereI
69
ENGLISH LAKE DISTRICT.
CONISHEAD PRIORY,
Hydropathic Mansion, by Ulverston Furness.
LADIES' AND GENTLEMEN'S TURKISH, LAKE, AND SEA
WATER BATHS.
Resident Physician. Address—The Manager.
'PHIS magnificent and historical mansion, built at a cost of over ,£140,000
1 standing in its own beautifully wooded grounds of 150 acres, is, on
high medical authority, stated to be one of the best Hydropathics in the
kingdom, both for summer and winter residence. In winter, the temperature
of the house is kept at sixty degrees.
During summer, Excursions by coach, rail, and steamer, on specially
moderate terms, to the principal English Lakes.
WINDERMERE HYDROPATHIC.
Delightfully situated, 300 feet above Lake
Windermere; dry and healthy ; sheltered from east winds,
making it a desirable
SPRING&WINTER HEALTH RESORT
as well as a
VISITORS' ANX> TOURISTS' HOME,
in the season.
The Dining and Drawing Rooms are the largest in the district;
they are well ventilated, and furnished with every regard to com¬
fort and luxury
The bath rooms are capacious, airy, and well lighted. The
Turkish Bath is fitted with all the latest improvements. The
Electric Bath comprises all the appliances which render this
speciality in hydropathy perfect.
Physicians—
THOMAS DOBSON, M.D., and R. CLEGG, i.R.c.p.
Four-in-Hand Coaches leave for all parts of the district
during the season.
7°
ST. ANN'S HILL
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
COUNTY CORK,
Founded by the late Dr. Barter, in the year 1843,
Resident Physician M. ALTDORFER, M.D., &c.
THIS charming health resort (for many years celebrated for the scientific application of
hydropathic treatment in various forms of disease, especially in neuralgic, gouty,
and rheumatic cases) has long been a favourite, both with the invalid and the tourist. The
house occupies an elevated position in the midst of wooded scenery, commanding from its
windows a bird's-eye view of the groves and castle of Blarney and the valley of the rivet
Shournagh; and owing to its sheltered situation, the mild climate, and to the interior of the
building being_maintained at a uniform temperature during the winter months, is, at all
seasons, a desirable residence for invalids.
THE BATHS,
as they should be in the birthplace of the improved Turkish bath in Western Europe,
are amongst the finest in the kingdom, comprising separate spacious Turkish baths, for
ladies and gentlemen, pine, brine, electric, and all other hydropathic appliances. Local
electricity, in its various forms, is applied in many varieties of disease. Massage,
now so much in vogue and which has been found so successful a method of cure, will
be available for those requiring it. There are also arrangements for applying therapeutic
agents^ vaporized in inhalations, as well as Professor Waldenburg's apparatus for the
administration of compressed and diluted air.
Attached to the establishment are Circulating Library, Reading Room, Covered Lawn
Tennis Court, Cinder Tennis Court, three grass Tennis Grounds, Theatre, American
Bowling Alley, Billiard Rooms for both ladies and gentlemenj &c.
Good Trout andBalmon Fishing. Foxhounds meet in the immediate neighbourhood.
Postal and Telegraph Office in the establishment.
SPECIAL FIRST-CLASS TOURIST TICKETS for Two Months at Reduced
Rates are issued at Kingsbridge, Dublin, on production of a written order from the
Secretary at St. Ann's Hill, who will forward the same, or prospectus, on application.
Terms from £2 2s. to &3 3s. per week.
N.B.—The Lakes Of Killarney are only three hours', and the BlackWater (Irish
Rhinelwithin twohours'bv rail fromSt. Ann'sHill.and either can be seen in a day's excursion
Belfast—Gianfs Causeway—Killarney. 71
EGLINTON & WINTON HOTEL,
HIGH STREET, BELFAST.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.
Is splendidly situated, being most convenient to Banks, Post Office, &c.
TRAM CARS PASS THE DOOR.
HANDSOME BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS*
Omnibuses attend all Trains and Steamers.
NIGHT PORTER. TERMS MODERATE.
Telephone t Nt. 246, «JOHN MANTELL, Proprieief.
THE GIANT'S CAUSEWAY.
CAUSEWAY HOTEL.
THIS Hotel, situated close to the Giant's Causeway, has been completely renovated
and enlarged, and will be found replete with every comfort. It is now worked in
connection with-
THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY ELECTRIC TRAMWAY,
The Longest Electric Tramway in the World—EIGHT MILES.
The extension from Bushmills to the Giant's Causeway is now complete, and passengers
are carried through direct, by electric tramcars from Portrush railway station to the hotel.
ASK FOR THROUGH RAILWAY TICKETS.
Postal Address—CAUSEWAY HOTEL, BUSHMILLS.
LAKES OF KILLARNEY.
JLWEk*
JOHN ROSS, Proprietor.
•ylSITORS ana tourists are respectfully informed tnat this hote1 is
* situated at the foot of Mangerton, and between the Upper and Lowe.
Lakes, and a minute's walk from Muckross Abbey, Tore Waterfall, &c
It stands in the very centre of the lake and mountain scenefy (as a glance
at the map of the lakes will show), thus securing a decided advantage over
the other hotels, which are situated far away from most places of interest.
It is the most economical and comfortable, and combines the best situation
wuh the most moderate tariff of any first-class hotel on the lakes.
Being under the patronage of Mr. Herbert, and close to the entrance gate
of the far-famed demesne of Muckross, free access is allowed, and special
piivileges are accorded, which parties staying at other hotels have to
pay for.
Table d'Hote at 6.30 p.m
Hotel Omnibus and Porters attend all Trains.
Please note proprietor's name, and see that the 'bus you enter bears tb«
- ■ inscription, " The Muckross Hotel."
JOHN ROSS, Proprietor.
72
Newry— Wick low.
NEWRY HOTEL,
CORRY SQUARE, NEWRY
(within 700 Yards of Edward Street Station).
VISITORS will find every attention to their comforts, combined with
strictly moderate charges. This hotel contains twenty-five Bedrooms.
Dining, Sitting, Coffee, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms.
Hotel Tariff :—Bed, including attendance, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. per night;
breakfast or tea in coffee-room, is. to 2s.; dinners, is. to 2*. 6d.\ private
sitting-rooms, per day.
MISS HARRIET SHERIDAN, Proprietress.
* GREEN * TREE * HOTEL, *
WICKLOW.
ESTABLISHED over fifty years, and recently greatly
- enlarged; replete with every accommodation. Cars
attend arrival of all trains. Posting in all its branches
MICHAEL J. BYRNE, Proprietor.
Now Publishing in Monthly Parts, Price One
Shilling Each.
OUR NATIONAL CATHEDRALS:
THEIR HISTORY and ARCHITECTURE,
from their Foundation to Modern Times,
with Special Accounts of Modern Restorations.
Illustrated with Separate
FULL-PAGE COLOURED PLATES,
Reproduced from Fine Steel-Engravings, and many
ORIGINAL WOOD ENGRAVINGS IN THE TEXT.
The whole carefully revised with the aid of Dignitaries of the
Anglican Church.
Specimen part will be sent post-free for 1/- by
WARD, LOCK & CO., Warwick House, Salisbury Square,
London, E.C.
Aberdeen—Bunctvie. 73
p- DEES I D E
Hydropathic Establishment,
HEATHCOT, near Aberdeen.
Preserved Salmon and Trout Fishing in the River Dee,
as it runs thrOugn tne estates of tieathcot and Ardoe.
The establishment is beautifully situated, five miles from
Aberdeen, and within easy distance of Balmoral Castle, her
Majesty's Highland residence; it is easily reached by steamer
or railway.
Terms per week, £2 10s.; for two persons occupying one
room, £4. During winter, £1 15*. per week; for two persons
in one room, £2 3s.
Dr. STEWART, Medical Superintendent.
LOCH I EL ARMS HOTEL,
BANAVIE, N.B.
WESTERN TERMINUS of CALEDONIAN CANAL STEAMERS.
LARGEST AND MOST CONVENIENT ON ROUTE.
BEN NEVIS—ONLY HOTEL possessing a full
view of mountain from its windows.
T.A WN TENNIS. EIILIARDS.
TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS-MENZIES, BANAVIE.
JOHN MENZIES, Proprietor.
74
Blair Athole—Blairgowrie.
ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL
AND POSTING ESTABLISHMENT
(ADJOINING THE STATION),
BLAIR ATHOLE,
now one of the largest and best appointed hotels in the
Highlands. Magnificent Coffee Room and Ladies' Drawing
Room. Table d'Hote daily during the Season. Boarding
terms on application.
Blair Athole is much the nearest and most central point from
which to visit Killiecrankie, the Queen's View, Lochs
Tummel and Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of
Bruar, Garry Tummel, and Fender ; the Grounds of Blair
Castle, &c.; and it is the most convenient resting place for break¬
ing the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland.
The Bridge across the Tarffisnow open, and the excur¬
sion through Glen Tilt to Braemar can be safely made.
POSTING DEPARTMENT complete and extensive.
Guides and Ponies for Braemar or Mountain Excursions.
D. MACDQNALD and SONS, Proprietors.
ROYAL jgjS? HOTEL,
BLAIRGOWRIE.
THIS OLD-ESTABLISHED HOTEL is now well known
for comfort arid cleanliness, superior cuisine, and high-class
wines. Charges moderate.
Excellent Parlour and Bedroom accommodation. Spacious Coffee
and Billiard Rooms have been added.
FIRST-CLASS HORSESTAND VEHICLES.
Coach to Braemar daily,
at II a.m., during July, August, and September; scats secured
by post or telegram.
'Bus meets all Trains.
SHOOTINGS INSPECTED AND VALUED.
JOHN ANDERSON, Proprietor.
Bridge of Allan—Callander—Dundee. 75
I
PHILP'S ROYAL HOTEL,
BRIDGE OF ALLAN, ■?*
THE most suitable place to break the journey for
Callander, The Trosachs, Oban, and other parts
of the Highlands. Excellent Accommodation.
'Bus meets all trains. R. PHILP, Proprietor.
I
a
BIGGS'
Caledonian Temperance Hotel,
CALLANDER,
Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners, Teas, Suppers, Beds.
Charges Moderate. WILLIAM A. BIGGS, Proprietor.
LAMB'S
TEMPERANCE
HOTEL,
Reform Street,
DUNDEE.
thb
QUEEN'S
HOTEL,
DUNDEE.
A First-Clasa Family and Commercial Hotel.
HANDSOME BILLIARD, SMOKING, and STOCK ROOMS,
Magnificskt Virws or thi Rivrr and Tay Bridge.
A 'Bui from the Hotel a waits the arrival of ell Trains:
STABLING.
7 6
Dunoon —Edinburgh.
-ARGYLL HOTEL, DUNOON.
THE ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN DUNOON.
: Close to the Pier. commanding: a Ma&niiicent View of the Irith of Clyde.
Table d'Hote daily at 6.30 p.m. Special reduced rates for Parties slaying
a week or longer.
This Hotel is under New Management, and particular attention will
be paid to the comfort of Visitors. Splendid Sea Fishing. Boots waits
arrival of all steamers. A. M. PHILLIPS, Lessee.
EDINBURGH.
PHILP'S COGKBURN HOTEL,
Immediately adjoining the Terminus of the Midland and
Great Northern Trains, Waverley Bridge Station.
THIS commodious
and well-known
hotel is beautifully
situated, overlooking
PRINCES STREET
GARDENS,
and commanding
some of the finest
views in the city.
no intoxicating liquors.
BED AND ATTENDANCE FROM 2/6.
JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietor.
Rothesay— Glasgow.
77
SCOTLAND.
GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC,
ROTHESAY,
ISLE OF BUTE.
Beautifully situated, overlook¬
ing' the charming BAY OF
i ROTHESAY, bounded by the
KYLES OF BUTE
and the
Lofty Mountains of Argyle
It possesses, probably, the
greatest attractions of any
similar establishment in Scot¬
land.
Large Recreation Hall,
Billiard & Smoking Rooms,
recently erected, &c.
THE BATHS,
including all modern appliances, are certainly UNSURPASSED for comfort
and elegance.
Resident Physician - • Dr. PHILP.
For prospectus and terms apply to the MANAGER, or PHILP'S
COCKBURN HOTELS, Edinburgh or Glasgow.
GLASGOW.
141, BATH STREET.
THE COCKBURN r
HOTEL,containing up p.
wards of a hundred Rooms, Igjl
is specially planned and con
strutted with every modem
improvement to meet the
requirements, of a first-cla&i
hotel. Situated in an ele
vated and quiet, but central
and convenient; part of the
city, within easy accev
of the different rail •
stations and steamship
landings Street cars past
within a few yards to all
parts of the city.
A fas sender Elevator to
every landing.
Bed and Attendance from it 6d.
Both hotels conducted on the tome principles.
AsSlit for Ccoh't Systtm »/ Tfurs to the Highlands and /tlanJs
78
Edinburgh— Glen Ajjnc.
BEDFORD HOTEL.,
83, PRINCES STREET,
On parte Fran fait. EDINBURGH.
Under MADAME DEJAY'S own Personal Superintendence.
UNSURPASSED FOR COMFORT, ECONOMY, AND QUIETNESS.
MOST MODERATE TERMS. CUISINE 7. LA FRANCAISB.
COFFEE ROOM AND LADIES' DRAWING-ROOM.
*#* This Hotel is situated in the Best Part of Princes Street,
and commands a Good View of the Castle.
ED1NBURGH-CRAIGLOOKHART
HYDROPATHIC.
Best residence
for visitors to
edinburgh, close
to the City. Terms
from £1 I2J. 6d. per
week. Winter, ^2 2s.
Address—
the manager.
Nearly opposite the General Pott Office, g
pARLING'g
ftegent temperance E)otel,
20, WATERLOO PLACE,
INBURG^'
I ana only a few miouie,' walk from tke Railway Station,. I
Glen Affhig Hotel,
CANNICH, STRATHGLASS.
THIS HOTEL is beautifully situated on the river Cannich, and within
easy drive of the famous Glen Affric and Glen Cannich, for Landscape
scenery not surpassed in the Highlands. It is fourteen mile, from Temple
Pier, Loch Ness, and seventeen miles from Beauly. One of the finest circular
tours in the North can be made from the hotel.
SALMON AND TROUT FISHING. POSTING.
JOHN MACPHERSON, Proprietors
it. I gin—Inverness. 7y
"STATION HOTEL, " ELGINT
THIS comfortable and commodious house occupfiS one o( the best sites
in the town, is close to both the railway stations, within five minutes'
walk of the fine ruins of the Cathedral, and within an easy drive of the beau¬
tiful and romantic Pluscarden Abbey, and other places of interest in the
neighbourhood,. "It is newly furnished in the best style, and contains suites
of Private Rooms, Commercial, Coffee, and Drawing Rooms, large Dining
Hall and Stock Rooms, Smoking Room, Billiard Room, and Bath Room,
numerous Bedrooms, &c. HIRING.
Letters and Telegrams Promptly attended to. Table <T Hote daily during
the Season. WILLIAM CHBISTIH. XjCSSSS,
The ROYAL HOTEL, Inverness, entratiee to Railway Station.
THIS LARGE FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, immediately opposite and within a few yards
of the Railwav-Station entrance, is entirely removed from the smoke, bustle, noise,
and other disturbing influences which usually affect the comfort of hotels situated in close
proximity to the railway. Tariff of charges strictly moderate; Bedrooms from as. 6d,
Table d'hote at 5.30 and 7.30. The porters of the hotel await the arrival of all trains, and
an omnibus attends the Caledonian Canal steamers. POSTING.
So Inverness —Loch Awe—Loch Lomond.
PORTSONACHAH HOTEL, LOCH AWE.
THIS well-known and favourite hotel has been considerably enlarged, and
it now contains spacious accommodation of every description. Besides
being beautifully situated, it occupies a central position on the loch, and
many places of interest can be visited daily.
All the steamers on the loch call at the hotel pier, and the hotel steamer,
" Kilchurn Castle," connects with the several trains from the south and with
Oban trains (see Caledonian Railway Tourist Guide).
The fishing on Loch Awe and several hill lakes is free ; and first-class
boats, with experienced boatmen, are retained for the use of visitors. Letters
are received and despatched thrice daily from the POST-OFFICE IN
THE HOTEL.
HOTEL TARIFF ON APPLICATION.
A Coach leaves the Hotel daily (on the arrival of the Glenant
Coach) at 12.30 p.m. for Bealochmor and Falls of Blairgour.
Postal Address—PORTSONACHAN HOTEL, LOCH AWE,
PORTSONACHAN, ARGYLLSHIRE, N.B.
Telegraphic Address—PORTSONACHAN, LOCH AWE.
' ' THOMAS CAMERON, Proprietor.
* I On and after July i, 1887, the " Kilchurn Castle " will run
in connection with the Mail Train from the South, due at
Loch Awe Station at g.26 a.m.
INVERSNAID HOTEL, LOOH LOMOND.
HIS HOTEL is centrally situated in the Scottish Lake District,
amidst unrivalled scenery. In the neighbourhood are many places
of interest, such as Rob Roy's Cave, the islands on Lcufr Lomond,
cn some of which are the remains of feudal strongholds, and, within a few
yards of the hotel, Inversnaid Falls, rendered famous by Wordsworth in his
poem " To a Highland Gill."
Coaches to and from Loch Katrine seve. al times daily, during' summer,
in connection with all the sailings of the steamer to and from theTrosachs.
LAWN TENNIS, BOATS, BILLIARDS, &c.
TROUT PISHING- ON THE LOCH FREE.
Parties Boarded by Week ok Month.
ROBERT BLAIR, Proprietor.
Loch Ness.
fort-augustus HOTEL
(UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT),
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED AT THE HEAD OF
LOCH HESS, OH THE CALEDOHIAH CAHAL.
Extensively Altered and Improved and Entirely Refurnished.
Parties going South by the Canal Route can avoid the early start in the morning by
leaving Inverness vith the Mail Steamer at 3 p.m., and joining the Swift Steamers at Fort
Augustus at 10.30 the following morning.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
EXCELLENT TROUT FISHING free to Residents in the Hotel.
W. D. DAVIS, Proprietor.
DALLAS*
Drumnadrochit Hotel,
GLENURQUHART, INVERNESS-SHIRE.
This old-established and well-known hotel has
been entirely rebuilt on a first-class scale, and is newly and elegantly
furnished in the most modern style. It has Thirty large Bedrooms, splendid
Coffee and Drawing Rooms, besides Parlours, Smoking Room, Bathroom,
and all conveniences.
The walks and drives around Drumnadrochit are unrivalledfor beauty,
variety, and extent; while in the immediate 7)icinily is scenery made famous
by Phillips, Millais, Shirley Brooks, John Bright, and others. Within
convenient distances are Urguhart Castle, Falls of Dhivach, Doe Falls,
and the famous Glen Affric and Strathglass.
Visitors staying at the hotel have liberty to fish in Loch Ness,) and
other fishing can be had in the neighbourhood.
posting complete in all departments,
and conveyances, on intimation, will meet
all steamers. '
LETTERS AND TELEGRAMS CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO.
POST AND TELEGRAPH OFFICE WITHIN TWO MINUTES* WALK
OF THE HOTEL.
MR. Macbrayne's steamers call at temple pier daily
t. simpson, Lessee.
INVERMORISTON HOTEL
LOCH-NESS, INVERNESS-SHIRE,
DELIGHTFULLY situated on the north shore of the loch
and within ten minutes'of Invermoriston pier. Parties stay¬
ing at the hotel can have excellent fishing on the river Moriston,
Loch-Ness, and other lochs jn the neighbourhood. Posting com¬
plete, and conveyances, on intimation, will meet all steamers.
Post and Telegraph Office within Two Minutes Walk of Hotel.
MR. MACBRAYNE'S STEAMERS CALL AT INVERMORISTON PIER, DAILY.
JNO. MACGREGOR, Proprietor.
82 Loch Katrine—Newton Stewart—Oban.
THE
TROSACHS HOTEL,
LOCH KATRINE.
Parties Boarded by the Week on Special
Terms,
Excepting fro7ii 15th July to 15th September.
BOATS FOR FISHING AND EXCURSIONS
On Loch Katrine and Loch Achray.
All Coaches to and from Callander stop here for Lunch.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES
t Both at Callander and Trosachs.
ROBERT BLAIR, Proprietor.
CALLOWAY ARMS HOTEL,
NEWTON STEWART, N.B.-
JAMES PETT1GREW, Proprietor.
"BUS AWAITS
ARRIVAL and DEPARTURB
OF ALL TRAINS.
POSTING IN ALL
ITS
DEPARTMENTS.
Tourists and Commercial Oentlemen will find every
attention oaid to their comfort.
THE LEOPOLD HOTEL, OBAN.
APARTMENTS, single or en stiite, maybe had by the day,
p\_ week, or month, on strictly moderate terms. Parties
boarded by the day or week. C. HUNTER, Proprietrix.
MACPHERSON'S TEMPERANCE HOTEL,
Corner of George-st. and Stafford-st. (opposite the Commercial Bank)t
OBAN.
Centrally situated for Train, Steamer, and Coach, and for Sea-Bathing.
CBARGES VERT MODERATE. JOHN MACPHERSON
Oban.
83
OBA nr.
On the
NEW PROMENADE,
KING'S
Two minutes' walk of Steamboat Pier, Post, Banks, and Coach Offices.
PARTIES BOARDED ON MODERATE TERMS.
And almost opposite the
RAILWAY STATION.
ARMS HOTEL,
+ BILLIARDS -I-
tetters and Telegrams attended to. ALEX. MacTAVISH, Proprietor.
SUTHBRZeAND'S
GREAT WESTERN HOTEL.
LARGEST AND LEADING HOTEL IN OBAN. Beautifully
situated. Replete with every comfort.
NO CHARGE FOR OMNIBUS TO AND FROM TRAINS
AND STEAMERS.
O BAN.
MAGLAGHLAN'S VICTORIA HOTEL.
THE cheapest and best and the only high-class hotel in close proximity to Railway
Station, Pier, and Post Office, WITHOUT INTOXICATING LIQUOR.
TARIFF.
Bedrooms, 1 s. 6d. and 2s. Dinner Table d'Hote, 2,?.
Plain Tea or Breakfast, is. 6d. Luncheon, ijr. 6d. and 2s.
Breakfast Table d'Hote, 2s. Attendance, is.
Special Terms for Families or Parties staying for a few days.
Registered Telegraphic Address : " MACLACHLAN, OBAN."
34
Strathpeffer Spa—Taynuilt.
The Highland Health Resort.
STRATHPEFFER SPA
STRONGEST SULPHUR WATERS IN GREAY
BRITAIN.
Noted foi the core of Gout, Rheumatism, Skin, Liver, and
Venal Diseases.
See Dr. Manson's Book, stb Edition.
THE BEN WTVIS HOTEL,
Two minutes' walk from the Mineral Wells and Baths,
contains public and private apartments, en suite. { -
BILLIARD AND RECREATION ROOMS.
BOWLING AND TENNIS GROUNDS, POSTING, %c.
- ^ ' Apply to THE MANAGER.
TAYNUILT HOTEL,
TAYNUILT.
THIS HOTEL Is situated near Loch Etive, within two minutes' walk
from the Taynuilt station, on the Callander and Oban Railway.
Vuitort have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fithing on the
River Awe.
Post Horses, Carriages, &c.
james mubeay, Proprietor.
St. BoswelPs— Wemyss Bay.
85
RAILWAY HOTEL, St. Boswell's Station.
H. BRYDONE, Proprietors.
Nearest Hotel to Dryburgh Abbey.
Good Fishing in the Neighbourhood.
CARRIAGES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION FOR HIRE.
HYDROPATHIC
cfrSV ESTABLISHMENT.
Wemyss Bay Railway has through communication with London and principal stations,
and Caledonian Return Tickets are available for any time.
M We talk-about the beauty of the Greek islands, and of the mingled grandeur and
loveliness of the Mediterranean seaboard ; but I have never seen anything more beauti¬
ful than Weinyss Bay was yesterday, and I do not hesitate to say that there is no picture
gallery in the world that can present from the hand of Nature such a picture.liarl oj
Ravens-worth. Physician—RON A LD CURRIE. M.D.. C.M.
Manager— FRANK G. GRANT, late of Conishead Priory
THE BEST COOKERY BOOK IN THE WORLD.
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MRS. BEETON'S
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Household Management
CONTAINING all kinds of practical information on modern
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have been carefully delineated^^^he Copiousness and Beauty??
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and the accuracy of the descriptive matter.
The Series nozv comprises the following Books, and others
are in preparation ■.—
London.
Environs of London.
Edinburgh and Environs.
Dublin and Neighbourhood.
Glasgow and the Clyde.
Liverpool and Environs.
Leeds and Vicinity.
Brighton and Suburbs.
Worthing and Neighbourhood.
The Channel Islands.
The Isle of Wight.
The Isle of Man.
The English Lake District.
TheTrosachs, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, &c.
Ayr, Arran, Dumfries, and Land of Burns.
Abbotsford, Melrose, and the Scottish Border.
Oban, and the Western Highlands and Islands. f
Perth, Dundee, &c.
Fifeshire, &c.
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Whitby, and other Places in the North Riding of Yorkshire.
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Furness Abbey.
Morecambe Bay.
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Windsor and its Castle.
Harrogate and its Spas.
Torquay, Teignmouth, Dawllsh, Dartmouth, Totnes, &c
Exeter, and South-East Devon.
Lynton, Lynmouth, and Neighbourhood.
Ilfracombe, Barnstaple, &c. t
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L'lle de Jersey. In French. Wrapper, 6d.; Cloth, it.
In one volume, price 2s. wrapper boards, or as. 6d. cloth gilt,
PLACES WORTH SEEING IN AND AROUND LONDON
In one volume, price 3s. 6d., cloth gilt,
HISTORICAL AND PICTORIAL WARWICKSHIRE.
In two volumes, cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. each,
HISTORICAL AND PICTORIAL HANDBOOK TO SCOTLAND.
WARD, LOCK, and Co.
IO*DOM: WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.C.
New York : Bond Strebt.
EDWARDS'
BY ROYAL
LETTERS PATENT.
RECOMMENDED BY THE ENTIRE PRESS.
DESICCATED
and WHITE Vegetable
SOUPS
M
AKE, with little trouble,
excellent Soups—Brown
and White. The Vege¬
table Soup used with the liquor in
which fowls have been boiled, or
made as a Vegetarian dish with
inilk, will be found superb. Handy
and economical as a basis, or
stock for all soups. Hashes, stews,
and soups requiring body will be
found greatly improved where
' these soups are used for the pur¬
pose. Flour, which is the sub¬
stance commonly used for thicken¬
ing, detracts from the natural
flavour of the soup, while Edwards' Soups not only leave that flavour unimpaired, but add to them a sweetness and delicacy of flavour obtainable in
no other way. An exquisite addition to Irish Stew, which, when these soups are used, may be made without meat, and in this form will be found a
delicious light supper dish. If your Grocer does not keep it, half-pound of each will be sent free for 18 stamps, or a sample of both, sufficient for a
pint of each, for 3 yid. in stamps. They are sold in canisters—one-pouud, is. 3d.; half-pound, 3d.; quarter-pound, 4l/ad.; the Vegetable, quarter-
pound, 4d., by all Grocers and Provision Merchants.
HOUSEKEEPERS will find it invaluable, as it can be used in preparing Gravy for made disbes or as
an addition to stock, and also in the more solid form of Pasties, Rissoles, &c.
''"EST AY***" "'C^Est
HIGHEST AWARDS.
FREDERICK KING & CO., Limited,
SOLE MANUFACTURERS, Contractors to Her Majesty's Government,
26, Waring Street, Belfast; and 6, Bishopsgate Avenue, London, E.C.
BY APPOINTMENT
MANUFACTURERS
TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
HIS MAJESTY THE
KING OF THE BELGIANS,
ETC.
PARIS EXHIBITION, 1878
'THE GRAND PRIZE"
(Special Gold Medal and Diploma of Honour) :
The Highest Distinction the Exhibition could confer, and the ONLY
" GRAND PRIZE" given to the Biscuit Trade.
International Health Exhibition, London, 1884
The Highest Awards given for Biscuits to any English
House have been made to HUNTLEY AND PALMERS
''for Excellence of Quality" at all the leading Lnternational
Exhibitions.
Huntley « Palmers,
READING AND LONDON.
HUNTLEY & PALJYIEJRS manufacture Biscuits
and Cakes of every variety, plain and sweet, which
may be obtained of the principal Italian Ware¬
housemen, Grocers, &c., in the United Kingdom
and elsewhere.
GOLD MEDAL AWARDED.
Biscuit Manufacturers,
GREAT SAVING
IN MONEY AND TIME.
Forty large cups of delicious Coffee made
without trouble for One Shilling by using
SYMINGTON'S
Essence of Coffees Chicory
Prepared from the finest Coffee, with a suitable pro¬
portion of Chicory, which is generally preferred.
The great and increasing demand for this article warrants the
assertion that it is the
COFFEE FOR THE MILLION.
THOSE WHO PREFER
COFFEE WITHOUT CHICORY
Can now obtain it at a r:::7:rate price by using
symington's essence of pore coffee,
Prepared from freshly-roasted Coffee Beans, the whole of the
fine delicate aroma being retained by means of
A SPECIAL PROCESS.
As their new is. bottle makes 30 cups of coffee equal to that made direct
from the finest beans, it will be found as economical as fresh-ground Coffee,
while the convenience and readiness with which a cup or a gallon can be
prepared for use makes it a household requisite.
GOLD MEDALS awarded, New Zealand, 1882, & Calcutta, 1884.
Extract from "British. Medical Journal."
"Symington and Co.'s Coffee Essences have a standard reputation, and
possess great merit. The Coffee Essence must be prepared in Vacuo at a
low temperature, as the aroma of the Coffee is well preserved ; in its essential
qualities it does not differ in any way from a cup of Coffee made in the
ordinary way."
THOS. SYMINGTON & CO., EDINBURGH,
And 11, Cullum Street, L0I\ID01\I, E.G.
I
P. S. CLEAVER S
PATENT
TEREBENE SOAP
IS UNRIVALLED FOR PRODUCING
A CLEAR BRILLIANT COMPLEXION AND
SMOOTH SKIN.
| Vm-READ
24, Albert Road, Croydon, June 1st, 188".
Gentlemen,—I never used any Soap to equal your Terebane Soap. I have
sufTered greatly with tender hands for the last three years, and was induced five
weeks ago to try your Terebene Soap. The result has been moot satisfactory.
My skin is as soft as velvet, and aii tenderness has entirely disappeare< . You
are quite at liberty to make use of this if you please.
Messrs. F. S. Clbaver <fc Sons, Your* faithfully.
Red Lion Street, W.C. C. NEAiVE.
115, Bridge End, Belfast, June 2fi, 18 «.
Gen tlemen,—Your Terebene Soap ataiids unapproached for every < uality
which a Toilet Soap could possess. It will not smart the most delioat i skin
or even chapped hands. It is the only Soap sold that will really impro e the
skin. It is truly the perfection of Toilet Soaps. Yours truly,
Messrs. F. S. Ci.fiaver & Sons. B ft GIBSOIfl'P
Price 1/8 per Box of Three Tablets.
^
F. S. CLEAVER'S
TRANSPARENT SOAP.
Is the East and Most Durable in the Market.
Scented, it 6d. Unscented TapbTet 4d. Shaving Sticks i 6d.
the following important Testimonials