EMORY UNIVERSITY
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
A BOOK OF TRAVEL, HISTORY, INFORMATION
AND ENTERTAINMENT.
CX*
BY
Rt. Rey. M. B. SALTER, I ).! >.,
ONE OF THE
Bishops of the A. M. E. Church.
Illustrated by special selected beautiful half-tone
engravings.
PHILADELPHIA:
A. M. E. PUBLISHING HOUSE,
631 PINE STREET.
Entered according to Act of Congress];in*the]|year 1902, by
Bishop M. B. Salter in the office of the Librarian^of Congress at
Washington, D. C.
CONTENTS.
Introduction,—Rev. M. W. Thornton, D.D. n
Preface,—Author. ..... 7
A Voyage on the Deep. . . . 17
Edward's Kingdom,—London, England. . 25
Leopold's Kingdom,—Belgium. . . 33
Wilhelmina's Kingdom,—Holland. . . 37
William's Kingdom,—Germany. . . 40
Zemp's Kingdom,—Switzerland. ... 43
Victor Emanuel's Kingdom,—Italy. . 51
Rome,—The Vatican—Home of the Caesars. 62
Loubet's Kingdom,—France. ... 66
Back in London,—EcumeiiifciFConference. 84
A Storm at Sea,—Old Ocean. . . . 101
Elements of Pulpit Effectiveness. . 111
The Universality of the Christian Church. 115
Immutability of God's Promises . . 124
ILLUSTRATIONS.
City Roads Chapel. .... 5
Umbria. ....... 9
Bishop Salter. . . . . . 15
St. Ermine. ...... 26
A Party of Friends. .... 41
Mrs. Priscilla Salter. 53
Delegates and Wesley's Tomb. . . 71
Interior Wesley Chapel. ... 89
Campania. ...... 137
CITY ROADS CHAPEL,
London, England, where Ecumenical Conference was held.
TO
MY BELOVED WIFE, PKISCILLA SALTER^
MY VENERABLE COLLEAGUES,
AND
MINISTERS OF THE A. 3VL E. CHURCH,
THIS
LITTLE VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY
INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR.
PREFACE.
In presenting this little volume to my friends, I
have but one object, I lay no claims to the title of
an Author; I had occasion to pay a visit to foreign
lands, principally Europe.
I saw and noted what I saw, the Old Woman
(Mrs. Priscilla Salters, my beloved wife and com¬
panion, will be referred to throughout this work
under this humorous nom-de-plume) was my com¬
panion, she saw with me, what we both saw is too
good to die untold.
She saw most everything that I saw, therefore
in my private moments of reflection I perchance
receive the inspiration to re-relate my seeings, of
course the story is old to her, she doesn't care to
listen to repetitions, so I have decided to write and
tell it all to you; this and only this is my object.
I trust it shall be received for what it's worth,
in the hope that it will impart to you much informa¬
tion and prove most interesting.
I am much indebted to Rev. Montrose W. Thorn¬
ton for his contribution and the Old Woman, my
faithful and beloved wife, for invaluable assistance
rendered me in note taking.
I kept a minute daily diary, during my stay
abroad, little escaped my attention, from the same
I have prepared and given you my experience in
traveling through the Seven Kingdoms.
AUTHOR-
Steamship UMBRIA, bearingthe author and company to Europe.
INTRODUCTION.
As a race we are just entering the experimental
epoch of our development in book making.
The greater part of our energy to the present,
has been expended along other lines in a field most
varied.
A great transformation has taken place since the
days of Emancipation.
The bondsman within thirty-seven years has be¬
come the citizen ;—poverty, wealth;—ignorance,
intelligence.
The world of literature is extending a listening
ear to our musings; she has received with open
arms our Dunbar, Tanner, Scarborough, Dubois,
Williams and others.
This list is no less complete for want of talent
and accomplishments in scores of other bright
minds to be found in the ranks of the race; un¬
recognized merit, poisoned with the arrow of pre¬
judice, is the only barrier that has and now stands
in the way of many others.
Aside from this source of limited recognition, a
certain variety of the race culture in. these latter
years, have been keeping the press humming and
the library shelves replete with productions from
their pens that are worthy of more than passing
mention.
Religious subjects, on Bible and Church topics,
have called forth a number of commendable vol¬
umes by Negro authors.
Racial questions, the one he was the nearest ac¬
quainted with, has probably had the lead of any of
the other writings.
Scientific problems, have occupied his thoughts
to some extent, while he has proven himself moie
than a novice in his fictional turn of mind.
But few have given their attention to the life of
travel; this may be accounted for in part, as a lack
of opportunity for observation and the experience
by which such themes are inspired. Dr. D. P.
Seaton, some years ago, paid a visit to the Holy
lands. He returned and wrote a book on his
travels.
From this example we can easily draw the con¬
clusion that the Negro is not the singular along this
line of thought; but on the other hand, he is as re¬
sourceful in this field as any other when brought
in contact with its experience.
It has been vaunted by some, that the delegates
sent to the Ecumenical Conference were useless and
no good would result from it, the cost was too
great.
Not considering the standing that such represen¬
tation purchased the church in the eyes of her sis¬
ter bodies, if not the world, or the priceless experi¬
ence obtained, that is to be scattered throughout
our ranks by these most worthy gentlemen, who
have returned to our midst and cannot help impart
their valuable stores.
In my judgment one effort alone, will more than
repay the church for its expenditure.
Bishops Derrick, Gaines, Lee and Smith are
already imparting most valuable lessons from the
lecture platform, treating of their trip abroad,
Prof. Kealing is furnishing most valuable material
through the pages of the Review; while it was left
to Bishop Moses Buckingham Salters, D. D., the
author of this volume to tabulate in book form the
first history of the kind to be given to the race on
Foreign travel, especially as connected with a mis¬
sion on behalf of the great church of Allen.
We have read the manuscript on the "Seven
Kingdoms," with much delight, interest and pleas¬
ure.
The subject is suggestive of its contents, a travel
through seven Kingdoms, and with the descriptive
of the Author, is fascinating.
His style is ornate, but plain; the language is
simple, yet richly embellished with the queen's best
diction.
Aside from travel, you are introduced by careful
note data and such as we have not seen in print
elsewhere on the subject, to a history of the pro¬
ceedings of the Ecumenical conference, that im¬
presses one with the feeling of their actual presence
at this body, this narrative alone is fully worth the
effort of the Author.
The two voyages upon the ocean as given in the
first and last chapters, are illustrations of sea travel
that but few writers could equal. One has to do
with the fancy and play upon the imagination, while
the other plunges you into the real of life and its
pitches of terror.
There are other striking and entertaining features
in this worthy production, not omitting the humor¬
ous, that we have not the space to mention.
In brief, while laying no claims to the title of an
Author and of this we are modestly reminded in
the Preface; we are quite sure that the good Bishop
has more than sustained his reputation to such and
lias produced a work that is meritorious and com¬
mendable in the highest sense.
Its worth will prove a lasting monument to the
name of its Author and as years roll on, will oc¬
cupy a place of greatest value in the historical
archives of the Church.
The book should find a conspicuous place on
•every shelf, in every home, I am
Yours always,
M. W. THORNTON,
Presiding Elder Harrisburg District.
Philadelphia, Pa., 2-1-02.
BISHOP SALTER, D.D.
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
CHAPTER I.
A Voyage on the Deep.
One of the most distinguished and renowned
religious gatherings of its kind in the world is
the Ecumenical Conference, a body constituting a
pro rata representation of the various branches of
the great church of Methodists existing through¬
out the world. This illustrious body meets but
once in every ten years, but few are privileged
with the honor of membership more than once in a
lifetime. He who survives the pressure of time
and retains the activity of body and mind, to say
the least the popularity requisite for such con¬
tinued distinction is most favored.
Eighteen delegates was the allotment to the
African M. E.'Church, which ranked fourth ac¬
cording to its numerical strength. Of this num¬
ber two were laymen, eight were ministerial, while
eight were Bishops.
In the latter class, it was my happy privilege
to be one of the more fortunate to be selected. The
generosity of the church was manifest to the ex¬
tent of contributing the sum of four hundred
dollars, as an expense fund for each of its dele¬
gates. This was not requisite for every particular,.
18
the seven kingdoms.
yet it went a long way in the assistance of those
whom she had chosen to do her honor in the way
of representation.
Realizing" that such a trip held forth opportun¬
ities that were seldom to be enjoyed in the average
-conditioned life and considering well the untold
"pleasure to be obtained from this rare treat by the
association of the beloved companion of my
bosom, who in happiness and sorrow, so willingly,
;had shared the course of my past life; decided that
'by what ever sacrifice necessary, a way should be
provided for her to share a part of this luxury that
was simply to be obtained for the buying.
She was consulted and to be sure, most de¬
lighted with the idea, and with the philosophy of
the average of her sex, proved most helpful in the
devising of ways and means by which my dearest
hopes could be realized.
On the 17th of July, 1901, at 4.45 p. m., in a
comfortable Pullman sleeper, as husband and
wife, friends and companions, found us bidding
farewell to long known friends; a timely adieu to
the fond city, our home, Charleston, S. C., in
whose bays there once belched forth the resonant
guns of old Fort Sumter, which declared to the
world that four million bondsmen would soon be
slaves no more. With this consciousness of our
departure, we soon adjusted ourselves to the fact
that at last our prayers had been answered, our
mutual desires were to be gratified, while not in
fiction, history or the fortune of others, we our-
A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP.
19
selves not only would enjoy the privilege, but now
could be looked upon as two real, live tourists.
We proceeded on our journey without a chal¬
lenge until we reached the blood-stained hamlet,
Lake City; here a hot box on one of the coaches
demanded attention and our minds were again
pained with the remembrance of that awful out¬
rage which has above all others disgraced the
name of our fair state, in that poor Baker, who in
the exercise of his constitutional rights with the
members of his family were so brutally murdered.
What a relief when our mighty steed of steajm
removed us from the gaze of the land marks of
this dreadful scene.
We reached New York, the great Appian way
to the famous lands across the briny deep, about
1.30 on the 18th, and wrere shortly most com¬
fortably situated in apartments at the United
States hotel. Ere we bid our final farewell to the
States of pleasant memory, we called at the Bible
house, paid our respects to Dr. H. B. Parks the
distinguished secretary of our Missionary De¬
partment, worshiped on the Lord's day at
historic Bethel, enjoyed the exercises al¬
ways so striking and wholesome to the
traveler on Broadway and in company
with parting friends Mrs. Sterrett, Mrs. Beckett
and daughters, at 8.30 on the 20th, we went
aboard the majestic Umbria in company with
Bishops Evans Tyree, Benjamin F. Lee, Revs.
Albert Johnson, John W. Beckett, Phil. H. Hub-
20
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
bard, John Hurst, R. C. Ransom and Prof. H. T.
Kealing. Indescribable was the impression made
on one as the bell of warning reminded all that
we were now severing" for a time all connection
with the land and its teeming millions and were
speedily launching out into the destiny of the
mighty sea, for days to be tossed and rocked by
her uncontrollable waves.
All was now attention and sadness in the face
of contemplated happiness as our fearless craft
pushed out into the great channel with her pre¬
cious cargo of some seven hundred or more pre¬
cious human lives; with a firm and steady pres¬
sure of her confidential stroke/the panorama of
the Republic began to move and unfurl both the
old and new.
The Goddess of Liberty, serene and unruffled
by the wear of years with her beacon light point¬
ing heavenward loomed upon our vision, while
with her silent expression one could not help but
breathe a prayer to the great God whose sculp¬
tured sentinel she represented.
Through the beautiful harbor of NewT York,
thence the famous Sandy Hook, fraught with so
many dangers; we were soon ushered into the
bosom of the great father of waters, the majestic
Atlantic, whose strong arms most cordially ex¬
tended encompassed us in its shaky embrace.
The 20th of July was a beautiful day, we might
say an ideal one for the tourist, the sun mockingly
shined upon our cheerfulness so generally enjoyed
A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP.
21
by all, not for a moment betraying the fearful
elements of tempest, cloud and storm that awaited
us, and which in terrible fury was soon to break
forth upon our helplessness ere we reached our
native shores again. All were on deck, especially
the amateur voyager, wrapped in shawls and over¬
coats christened for the winter's breeze; but which
we found in this unsettled part of the world's en¬
vironments on a torrid July day, as comfortable
and desirable as we had found it in the realms of
old crimps habitations. Breakfast, luncheon, din¬
ner and refreshments were regularly served,
which up to the present were most heartly im¬
bibed by all. Drs. Hubbard and Ransom of our
party were not so well at this time and gave us
some anxiety, Bishop Lee did not look the better,
although he disclaimed any illness, undoubtedly
Mrs. Salters was the most invulnerable sailor up
to the present. All seemed greatly amazed by the
wonders of old ocean, with her heaving billows,
dancing sprays, lashing music and endless chase,
as one wave after another pursued its silver capped
runner in the distance, but too shortly to be re¬
placed by another, more maddened in its intensity
of brizzling foam in the wake of its rival.
Me thought that from study and research that
great was pur feeble conception of the Omni¬
potence of God; but to rightly see the "King in
His power," one must take a peep at old ocean
and her mighty and restless billows. More strik¬
ingly then will the poet's muse be understood by
22
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
his fellow man that our "God is all mysterious
and is incapable of being- found out, truly He
plants His footsteps in the sea and rides upon the
storms."
Aside from this matchless aspect of nature's
powerful wonders, an endless chain of other beau¬
tiful and enthralling features of the briny seas
unfurls themselves to one's gaze. Who can right¬
ly describe the beauty of the flying fish who in¬
habit this channel of the deep, as skipping, swim¬
ming, rising and diving, an emblazoned diamond
in the sun's rays, its wings uplifted as streaked
with gold and bespangled with pearls; or the
school of whales, greatest monsters of the deep,
who in timely rotation sends forth their fountain¬
like streak set so lovely in the colors of the rain¬
bow. This is but a faint and feebly expressed
impression that comes to the imind of one chained
to the sovereignty of God and which in glorious
majesty overwhelms him in a cruise on the crest
of one of nature's mightiest seas.
Sometimes a distant sail, gliding along the
edge of the ocean, would be another theme of idle
speculation. How interesting this fragment of a
world, hastening to rejoin the great mass of ex¬
istence. What a glorious monument of human
invention, that has thus triumphed over wind and
wave, has brought the ends of the world into com¬
munion, has established an interchange of bless-
ings, pouring into the sterile regions of the north
all the luxuries of the south, has diffused the light
A VOYAGE ON THE DEEP.
23
of knowledge, and the charities of cultivated life,
and has thus brought together these scattered
portions of the human race, between which nature
seemed to have thrown an insurmountable bar¬
rier.
I might fill a volume with the reveries of a sea
voyage; for with me it is almost a continual re¬
verie—but it is time to take you ashore.
It was a fine sunny morning when the thrilling-
cry of "land" was given from the mast head.
None but those who have experienced it can form
an idea of the delicious throng of sensations
which rush into an American's bosom when he
first comes in sight of Europe. There is a vol¬
ume of associations with the very name. It is
the land of promise, teeming with everything of
which his childhood has heard, or on which his
studious years have pondered.
From that time, until the moment of arrival,
it was all feverish excitement. The ships of war,
that prowled like guardian giants along the coast;
the head lands of Ireland, stretching out into the
channel; the Welsh mountains towering into the
clouds, all were objects of intense interest. As
we sailed up the Mercy, my eye dwelt with delight
on neat cottages, with their trim shrubberies and
green grass-plots. We beheld the mouldering
ruins of abbeys overrun with ivy, and the taper
spire of village church rising from the brow of
neighboring hill—all were characteristic of Eng¬
land,
24
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
The tide and wind were so favorable, that the
ship was enabled to come at once to the pier. It
was thronged with people; some idle lookers-on,
others eager expectants of friends or relations. I
could distinguish the merchant to whom the ship
was consigned. I knew him by his calculating
brow and restless air.
There were repeated cheerings and salutations
interchanged between the shore and the ship, as
friends happened to recognize each other. All
was now hurry and bustle. The meetings of ac¬
quaintances—the greetings of friends—the con¬
sultations of men of business. We alone were
silent and idle. We had no friends to meet us,
no cheering to receive. We stepped upon the land
of the proud Anglo-Saxon and entered the realm
of his Majesty Edward, the first Kingdom of our
tour.
CHAPTER II.
King Edward's Kingdom.
Liverpool is the second largest city of England
in size and commercial importance. Here we
landed, underwent the inspection of the custom
officials, arranged our baggage in the midst of
much confusion, boarded a train, called a carriage
which holds about six people, and after a two-
hundred miles' ride, more tiring than our trip
across the ocean, we arrived safely at the first
principal place of our destination, the world-
famed city of London.
This renowned city is the capital of the king¬
dom, most beautifully situated on both sides of the
Thames river. It is the largest and richest city
in the world, its population averages about five
millions. Its area is 118 square miles, and it con¬
tains many celebrated buildings.
Our baggage again looked after, in company
with the Old Woman, who from now on was to
be my sole companion, we entered a cab which
was capable of holding not more than two people,
and hastened off to the St. Ermines hotel. I have
seen and been the guest on the other side of the
water in some fine and magnificent establish¬
ments, but St. Ermines far surpasses any appoint¬
ment of the kind my eyes ever beheld or dream's
fancy ever imagined. Indeed, this tavern for the
Guests at ST. ERMINE'S HOTEL, LONDON, ENGLAND.
Dr. R. C. Ransom, Bishop W. J. Gaines, Prof. W. S. Scarborough.
Bishop B. W. Arnett, " Bjshop M. B. Salters.
KING EDWARD'S KINGDOM.
2 T
public, nomad is the superb of treasure, art, archi¬
tecture and florals that money has ever amassed.
No wonder my sense of appreciation was shocked
beyond the power of control, and although much
fatigued, so stunned, that my manliness was about
to fail me in the assuming of that which I had
money to buy—to tell the truth, so discounten¬
anced was I, that not for the Old Woman, who
demanded that I recatch my breath and proceed
to register, I am honest to say, that I should have
beat a hasty retreat and found more humble
quarters whose simplicity would better have fitted
my humble feelings and enabled me a greater
lease of time for recuperation. But so much for
the Old Woman whom I had brought along.
With her unruffled complacency undaunted and
the gaze of that spirit which without further
mincing of words, ordered me to go on, I at last
mustered the courage and performed the ameni¬
ties that enrolled me as a guest of this treasured
Salon, considered by ;me to be better suited for
royalty, if not for the gods.
Having made my first bow to these delicacies,
I was contented to be left to the reflections of
more comely circumstances at least, when to my
surprise I was confronted by a most lordly sub¬
ject, as he looked to me, who in manners of grace¬
fulness was precision itself and who demanded
my satchel, farther ordering me and the Old
Woman to follow him. Surely, thought I, that
this was too much; to swallow so much grandeur
"28
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
and now thus to be so outrageously imposed upon
by the honor, probably from a Prince from the
court, at least a most lorded gentleman. But after
arriving to my room, I afterwards learned that
this poor creature was most insignificant, was
only a trained machine automatically operated,
alas, nothing at all but the porter.
I was tired, so was the Old Woman, but the
apartment assigned us was too much for me.
The chairs if you touched them were soft as down
and had a dreadful tendency to sink towards the
floor. I preferred to sit on a more substantial
lounge that I finally espied. The folds of the car¬
pet brushed your feet, the tapestries enfolding
all above and around; chandeliers dazzling and
glittering to the eye, instead of comfort, filled one
with the fear of a Cinderella's palace. I was un¬
nerved, but the Old Woman said she was going
to bed. I watched her sink out of sight in the
folds of softest covering, and soon heard her de¬
clare the order for me to come on. With reluc¬
tance I ventured, and while on first trial I had
the sensation of one descending with a sudden
drop of an elevator, was soon fast asleep in the
balmy embrace of charming slumber.
The next day was Sunday. In company with
Bishop Gaines and daughter, whom we found
were guests at the same hotel, we procured a car¬
riage and proceeded to City Rhodes' chapel to at¬
tend service. Here we met the men of our party,
^vho had accompanied us across the ocean.
KING EDWARD'S KINGDOM.
29-
The chapel was very plain but neat and charm¬
ing. The choir held their place in the middle of
the church; the organ most elegant had two sets
of pipes resting in either gallery. The Episcopal
service was conducted; the preaching was simple,
the discussion was on the life of Enoch. The
regular pastor was away attending conference;
however, we met his assistant and the officers, and.
were very kindly treated by them.
At the conclusion of the service, we visited the
cemetery and beheld the tomb of the immortal
Wesley. I had the good fortune to sit in the chair-
once occupied by Wesley and to stand in the pul¬
pit from which this great man of God so often
expounded the word of salvation to dying men.
We visited the house that this good man for¬
merly lived in, a quiet old-fashioned looking
place, and amid it all there came upon me the in¬
spiration of the spirit of this great man, which
has infused me |more in the service of the Gospel
ministry than ever before.
Our association with our colleague, Bishop
Gaines, was very pleasant; our going to and fro^
attracted the gaze of the many. Such representa¬
tives of humanity were not a daily scene even in
the wonderful city of old London, and that made
more conspicuous by going to and fro in an open
carriage. Of co.urse Bishop Gaines was the ob¬
ject of greatest attraction, I suppose. He was so-
large, and I judge by his actions he felt about
three feet broader and an equal number higher,
30
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
yet we all enjoyed the degree of liberty and tlie
many pleasantries that this association and occa¬
sion proffered.
In the afternoon and evening of the same day,
we attended service at the faimous Westminster
Abbey. As I passed its threshold, it seemed like
stepping back into the regions of antiquity, and
losing myself among the shades of former ages.
It seems as if the awful nature of the place
presses down upon the soul, and hushes the visitor
into noiseless reverence. One feels that they are
surrounded by the congregated bones of the great
men of past times, who have filled history with
their deeds, and the earth with their renown.
Here is to be found the poet's corner and the
sepulchre of kings.
The Abbey is most magnificent, but few struc¬
tures of its kind are equal to it. The services are
grand and elevating, the impression is wonderful:
they will hardly be forgotten in a lifetime.
At the time of service, the choristers in their
white surplices, enter the choir. Suddenly the
notes of the deep laboring organ burst upon the
ear, falling with doubled and redoubled intensity,
and rolling, as it were, huge billows of sound.
How well do their volume and grandeur accord
with this mighty building, with its pomp of archi¬
tecture, and the elaborate beauty of sculptured
detail. With what pomp do they swell through
its arches, and then rise in triumphant acclima¬
tion, heaving higher and higher their accordant
XING EDWARD'S KINGDOM.
31
notes, 'and piling sound on sound—they pause,
and the soft voices of the choir break out into
sweet gushes of melody; they soar aloft, and war¬
ble along the roof, and seem to play about, its
"height like the air pure from heaven. Again the
pealing organ heaves its thrilling thunders, com¬
pressing air into music, and rolling it forth upon
the soul.
I sat for some time lost in that kind of reverie
which a strain of music is apt sometimes to in¬
spire. Bishop Wilberforce, an able and powerful
speaker, presented the theme, and ere I departed
I felt the influence of his burning words of Gos¬
pel truth moving upon my soul.
On Monday, the 29th of July, we took an omni¬
bus, called on Cook & Sons, and perfected our
plans for a journey through the continent. We
had our money exchanged for gold, went shop¬
ping, and after a night of refreshing sleep arose
on Tuesday morning, got in a hocky carriage, and
paid a visit to the Queen's park. Nothing can be
more imposing than the magnificence of English
park scenery. Vast lawns that extend like sheets
of vivid green, with here and there clumps of
gigantic trees, heaping up rich piles of foliage.
The solemn pomp of groves and woodland glades,
with the deer trooping in silent herds across
them; the hare, bounding away to the covert, or
the pheasant, suddenly bursting upon the wing.
The brook, taught to wind in natural meander-
ings, or expand into a glassy lake—the seques
32
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
terecl pool, reflecting the quivering trees, with the
green leaf sleeping on its bosolm, and the trout
roaming fearlessly about its liquid waters. These
are but a few of the features of park scenery, and
with such elaborate imagery of description, fails
to give the reader a true conception of the beauties
of Queen's Park.
We also visited the place where Queen Victoria
was born, and beheld the grandeur of her palace.
King Edward was home at this time, but we were
unable to see him. Parliament was in session,,
but not having a ticket of admission, we were de¬
prived the privilege of witnessing the delibera¬
tions of this renowned body. After spending
many hours in further sight-seeing, on Wednes¬
day, the 31st, we made our way to the Victoria
depot, purchased tickets for Dover, crossed the
English channel, which occupied three hours, andi
late that evening put in to port at Ostende, Bel¬
gium.
chapter n r.
I/eopoli's Kingdom
Belgium is one of the smallest, most prosperous
and yet conspicuous of the European dynasties.
Her people are the most patriotic to be found on
the continent. From dependency and the rule "»f
greater powers by her heroism she has wrenched
her independence, and to-day enjoys a liberty and
freedom that is unrivalled by republics them
selves.
We reached Ostend at 3 P. M., underwent the
inspection of the custojm officials, and while this is
a most beautiful summer resort, capable of af¬
fording much enjoyment, we were unable for the
pressure of time to tarry at any length as we
would have desired.
Taking the railroad carriage, we proceeded to
the famous city of interest, Brussels. This is the
capital and. metropolis, as well as a great manu¬
facturing centre. The Metropolo became our
headquarters. The people are French and Dutch,
not speaking either language, it is hard for us to
understand them.
We visited the Arcade, purchased several
souvenirs and attended the public concert that
was being- given, as in many of the European
centres musicals are a part of the consideration
given as a public benefit. The same was highly-
3
34
The seven kingdoms.
enjoyed by us, to say the least. A very fine and
notable art gallery is located here. Most all the
famous paintings of the Catholic Church are to
be found in this collection, hardly to be excelled
in any other part of the world. A visit to St.
James' Church was another feature of the great¬
est interest to us. Here is to be found one of the
principal statues of St. Peter, with the historic
rooster standing- at his side, a suggestive reminder
to the traveler of the backsliding period in this
great man's history of the past.
In this church it is said the famous Napoleon
^worshipped, and it is here that the present King-
receives his religious consolations. A private
room is provided for him for this purpose. I took
the privilege to enter the altar of the sanctuary
and to examine the christening fount, which be¬
came of special interest to me. The church is con¬
nected to the King's palace by an archway that
for convenience and in private the monarch may
enter and depart without embarrassment or in¬
terference.
The royal palace is most beautiful and more
interesting than the church to which it is attached.
It is heavily guarded by soldiers. A visit to the
inclosure or in his presence is a most difficult
privilege to be obtained; thus like many another,
we were deprived of the novelty. However, we
embraced the opportunity of visiting the lower
and higher courts, the Court of Appeals and the
Supreme Court. I sat in the chair occupied by the
LEOPOLD'S KINGDOM.
35
Chief Justice, then proceeded to the dg>me of the
building and took a bird's-eye view of the city,
which was a most beautiful sight.
The habits of the people are most striking to
the tourist, and here is to be seen features of life
that are most strange to the Western world. In¬
stead of horses, dogs are hitched to the carts of
traffic. The dog occupies one side of the shaft to
the vehicle, the woman the other. I am sure such
would be a case of humane consideration and a
license of shame if seen or practised in any part
of the civilized America. Frofn here we made
our departure for Rotterdam. Both are beauti¬
ful cities. They are remarkable for their quaint
red-brick houses, standing with the gables to¬
ward the streets. The latter are traversed by
canals, which are spanned by draw bridges, and
lined with broad quays. Vessels are to be seen in
all parts, moving to and fro, loading and un¬
loading.
Probably one of the most striking sights to the
eye of the traveler is the system of canals and
dykes to be seen so plentiful throughout the
realms of this province. On inquiring their ori¬
gin, we are told that in the earlier days of its in¬
dependence, the freedom imposed became an in¬
ducement to a great number of Calvinist refugees
from the Belgic States of France and Germany.
So thick was the crowd in some places, that many
families lived in boats. But here the native en¬
terprise found a speedy remedy; the Bretnstersee
36
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
was drained, and the wonderful water Staat, or
system of canals and dykes, was brought all over
the land.
Belgium is a fine country to behold. Some
places are flat, often rising to promontories or
hills surrounded with dense forests. Its fields of
harvest are models. Here are to be found the
women in the field doing service to the earth along¬
side of the men. That they are equal to the task,
is not gainsaid to the eye witness who beholding
their strength in cutting and pitching the grain
and wheeling the barrow, puts to doubt the inex¬
perienced questioner. I am sure when considered
in the light of the menials of other countries, es¬
pecially our women of the south land in America,
the latter are much better conditioned even at the
worst, than this custom found so prevalent in the
Belgium realms.
CHAPTER IV.
Queen Wilhelmina's Kingdom.
As we have previously stated, on Saturday,
August the 3rd, we arrived in the Kingdom of
Holland, in the city of Amsterdam.
This is the constitutional capital and largest
city. It is also considered one of the chief com¬
mercial centres of Europe. The country is mostly
flat, and like Belgium, is intersected by numer¬
ous rivers and canals. The surface being below
the level of the sea, is protected by high dykes.
While Amsterdam is the constitutional capital,
The Hague is the seat of the court. This noted
city has also become the seat of the arbitration
court of international differences of the world.
The universally beloved Queen has lately mar¬
ried a Prince from the German household, and as
the result of some domestic difficulties and the
high-minded prejudices of her subjects, was at
this time the subject of much discussion. Some
gossips are saying that there is an estrangement
between the Queen and her Prince Consort, while
a number of other stories are as generally current.
It was here that we met Bishop Gaines and his
daughter again, which was a most pleasant greet¬
ing to come in touch with the embrace of old
acquaintances so many thousand miles from home
and the many dear ones we knew,
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
Amsterdam is a beautiful city situated on the
Zuvder Zee bay. Excursionists are continually
to be seen coming and going on this lovely stream.
Many people are engaged in fishing, this is
their means of livelihood, and here as in Belgium,
the faithful spouse is to be seen helping her hus¬
band fixing and sometimes sailing the small craft
or fishers' smack, as they are called. The wea¬
ther is gloomy during our stay here, and the peo¬
ple are dressed more for winter than summer
weather. Some, however, are to be seen with the
regulation season attire.
The policemen look and dress like soldiers.
Instead of a baton they carry a sword. All the
people look the same as those we have seen be¬
fore, and I am persuaded as the often vaunted
expression of our American brother as relates to
the Negro, "That all people look alike to me."
Holland is especially noted for her orphanages.
Probably no other country in the world, accord¬
ing to their numbers and resources, are the equals
in this respect to this small Kingdom.
The little Queen and her mother have become
world famed for their efforts in this work in be¬
half of their people.
In these institutions so numerous, various are
the garbs assumed. The tidy and tasteful vigils
are to be seen in their quietness wending their
way here and there clad in lace caps, gingham
dresses, some of a slate, black, brown and even
purple color. There is a special!}' distinguished
gUKEN WILHELMIN.l'S KINGDOM. 39
order of these women who wear one side of their
dress red and the other black. There are men to
be seen of the same order, and their trousers are
like conditioned. We were here also as in Bel¬
gium, treated to a fine public musical.
On Sunday, the 7th, we attended the Episcopal
service, and was greatly benefited by a most ex¬
cellent sermon, which w7as taken from Judges, it
being in English. The dear old mother tongue
was welcome, if not delightful to such wanderers
as ourselves, who from morning- to night, day in
and day out, was surrounded by the babble of
foreign tongues.
Sunday reverence is not the highest regarded
here. The vegetable vender sells his wares on
this day the same as any other. Even the stores
are kept open; that is, those who prefer to, and as
a rule the majority of them so desire and do.
Surprising, we have not seen any electric cars
since we left New York city. The old-fashioned
horse system is in vogue everywhere thus far.
The streets are laid off very prettily. The peo¬
ple admire the beauty of the salme; thus they will
not suffer the planting of ugly and numerous
poles to mar their looks.
Having' concluded our visit of the principal
places of interest, not excepting the Queen's pal¬
ace, we prepared our retinue on Monday and be¬
took ourselves to the great German Empire.
CHAPTER V.
Bmperor William's Kingdom.
The German Empire is composed of twenty-six
States, each with its respective capitol and petty
ruler. The largest of these States is the King¬
dom of Prussia; next in importance is Saxony,
Bavaria and Wurtemburg. As among the coun¬
tries of Europe it ranks next to Russia in popu¬
lation. The empire is a limited monarchy. The
States have control of their own local affairs,
while the King of Prussia is Emperor of Ger¬
many.
Here are to be found some of the leading seats
of learning in the world. Berlin is the capitol
and the third city of Europe in size. Being limit¬
ed for time, we were unable to turn frotm our
course previously laid out and pay a visit to this
'city of so much fame and interest.
We visited Emmerich, also Cologne, the latter
most famous for its .manufacture of that pre¬
cious toilet delicacy, after which this city takes
its name, Cologne. During our stay here, we
were the guest of the Disch hotel. From its win¬
dows we could view the pedestrians so often
amusing. The women here, those of the menial
class, like so many others 011 the continent, are
largely used-as beasts of burden. I am sure the
Toads they ^ca^f y on their heads, and this seem*
A Party of Friends at Wesley's Tomb,
EMPORER WILLIAM'S KINGDOM.
43
to be their most favorite method, would crush
many a one of her sex.
Germany will always hold an interesting place
in the minds of the traveler who is acquainted
with its history. Within her domains was born
such renowned and world-famed characters as
Copernicus, Kelper, Humbolt and Bismarck. As
you travel through her domains these mighty
ones who have formed her character and built her
greatness, in monumental grandeur, rise up be¬
fore your vision, and you can not help but admire
the land over which' you ride, made sacred and
blooming as the rose by their service, sacrifice and
blood.
Germany is a pretty country. As you ride her
territory and behold her fields of green, pretty
landscapes and thriving industries, her worth is
instantly impressed upon the stranger.
Switzerland is our next objective point, and on
the 6th, we made our departure for those parts,
bidding a long farewell to this mighty empire of
the Josephs that we never again expected to
behold.
CHAPTER VI.
hemp's Kingdom.
We now enter old Switzerland, the land of
snowy peaks, mountain-turrets, crystal lakes, pic¬
turesque valleys and the grandest scenery. All
the way from Cologne to Basil one is edified with
the beautiful and fascinating scenery of the
Rhine. From our window at the latter place its
rippling sprays and sparkling laughter were al¬
ways displayed. How charming when seated on
the piazza to behold its pleasant face.
In boarding the wrong train we found that
here as in America one must pay for their mis¬
takes, so we were permitted to pursue our jour¬
ney for the extra fee of four dollars and fifty
cents. We arrived at Geneva at 1:15 on the fol¬
lowing day and took quarters at Grand Hotel Des
Bergues. Sight seeing became our principal oc¬
cupation as formerly at the previous places we
had visited. Geneva is the metropolis of this
country and is noted for its watches and jewelry.
Being a jewelry smith in past years myself, it is
to be judged of course that I, above all other
things, would be most interested in these noble
and famed establishments of my trade. My time
was fully paid, while my expectancies were more
*
Note—Switzerland is not now a kingdom in a political sense, it has
been and in the light under which it now appears and as we have been
impressed, we thus name or discuss it as such.
ZEMP'S KINGDOM.
45
than fulfilled in the appointment of these mighty
industries of world-wide reputation.
After a ride about the city, we paid a visit to
the historic home of the lalmented Voltaire, the
great philosopher and agnostic of the seventeenth
century. His home is most neatly kept in order
and all relics carefully preserved as objects of
interest to the traveler. Here is the tomb where
his faithful patrons have buried the heart of this
great man. His body we learned is buried in the
city of Paris. From the beautiful gardens of this
home so nicely kept one is favored with a splen¬
did view of the snow-coverecl Alps in the far dis¬
tance. What a lovely sight, the snow appearing
so white, as the Old Woman put it, "Looks just
like ice cream." One part of this gigantic wonder
reminded one of a man's hat, while the other re¬
sembled a huge bed of snow.
On taking our leave from this weird home, the
mind is flooded with the thoughts of this famous
yet heart-broken man of past greatness. How
through persecution by the religious sects he was
banished from his native home in France. The
refuge of grandeur accorded him at the Austrian
court, his envious, hence strained and miserable
association with Frederick the Great, the most
powerful and greatest of Kings of his day, and
finally this his last refuge to another and foreign
land, where he was received and spent the re¬
mainder of his days.
Truly again has the words of the Lowly Naz-
46
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
arene, in whom this man believed little, proved
true, "That a prophet is without honors save in
his own country." Now that he is dead, his coun¬
try bestows honor upon the crumbling body that
it refused to extend his existence, which like so
many others of equal greatness, are not appre¬
ciated or respected by their present age and are
only rightly honored after death by the children
of future centuries.
Returning to our hotel, we entered the dining
hall for lunch, and to our surprise for the first
time during our journey we beheld a colored man
and his white wife. There seemed to be no sur¬
prise or curiosity at their presence, and from all
appearances it was just as acceptable a situation
as any other that we-saw. It revealed the fact,
however, that color in marriages in these cosmo¬
politan countries, where conditions are not based
on complexion, has but little significance. In this
respect it may rightfully be said that Europe is
more broad and liberal in her views on such
racial 'matters than the States whose broad motto,
though narrowly applied, is: "The home of the
brave and the land of the free."
Saturday, the ioth, we took the train for La
Suisse station, thence the incline for a trip up
Mt. Jung. This was a distance of 16,420 yards.
The latter is the standard of measurement in
Switzerland, unlike our system, which is figured
by inches and feet. From this height a fulsome
view is to be had of the snow mountains which
ZEMP'S KINGDOM.
47
are a great distance off, and whose peaks are a
mile or more apart. Our experience and exercise
was most delightful. We climbed Mt. Jung as
far as our strength would allow, when upon
reaching a favored spot we sat on a very large
rock to rest, and taking our opera glasses we
amused ourselves farther by fascinating views
of the surrounding arms of these mammoth
hills and the valley below. From our extreme
height the depth beneath was a fearful sight to
behold.
We were in touch from our present position
with the White Mountain. The snow was melt¬
ing and running down its sides. Here it was that
the Old Woman became most daring in her con¬
templation of the sublime and beautiful and pro¬
ceeded at a mighty risk to gather and bottle some
of this snow. I tried to dissuade her, but to no
avail; so clinging to the rocks she descended,
reached out as far as possible and succeeded in
capturing her coveted prize. I thought sure that
any moment would be her last. Once her de¬
scent gave me the greatest alarm. I cried aloud,
"Old Woman, take care!" It was soon all over,
however, and to my comfort and her delight, she
returned shortly every whit whole, both bottle
and snow. I must confess she was more daring
than I could ever have been. Even now I would
not venture such a risk; no, not for my weight in
gold.
Aside from the personal interest of such ad-
48
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
venture, it is a source of much fun to see the peo¬
ple ascending the mountain, every train, and they
are many, crowded full. We are no different
than any of the others, as the occasion requires,
like children, we, too, are running to get a favored
seat in the cars or on the boat. In climbing, the
women either pin or tie up their petticoats, while
the men stuff the bottom of their pantaloons in
their socks. The old women try to be young;
they are as jolly as the girls. Every one is pro¬
vided with a stick, in the bottom of which is a
large iron prong. This is to enable them to climb
more easier. This stick is jabbed in the sand be¬
neath the rocks, the weight of the body is pressed
against it. Thus resting, the climber is enabled
to take two steps forward, when the stick is with¬
drawn and the process constantly repeated by the
traveler until he reaches his journey's end.
Our present stopping place is the retreat of
many tourists, and many are trie places of amuse¬
ment to which one may resort. We are often
entertained by the regular evening concerts, which'
are very largely attended by the fashionable set
as well.
The Alps constantly rise up before our vision.
They are to be seen on clear days as a huge cloud'
in the distance. We are told that no one has been'
known to ascend to the tops of this mightiest of
hills for ages, that the oldest person in these parts
cannot recall to knowledge the accomplishment of
such a fete by the most daring. On Friday, An-
ZKMP'S KINGDOM.
49
gust the 9th, a gentleman whose name we were
unable to find out, with two guides, attempted a
venture up its sides, but being overcome with ex¬
haustion had to return. It is reported that they
had a most severe and thrilling experience and ic
is thought they will be sick as a result of it. We
paid, a visit to Mountain (F) and then enjoyed a
most sumptuous meal of boiled meats. All meats
are boiled in these parts; in fact, we have not
eaten any fried meats since we left the States.
Thus you seldom find any dyspepsia or indiges¬
tion over here.
On the nth, we went to the Episcopal Church
to service. The sermon was concerning the life
of the Apostle Paul. We took communion, after
which we retired to our hotel, the Victoria, and
amidst the howling elements without, for it was
a very stormy night, retired for a much-needed
rest.
As to some of the various wrays of entertain¬
ment, and I would not fail to mention them, as
they were indulged on a Sunday night; without
conscientious compunctions some Avere playing
cards, enjoying concerts and even sewing. Me
thought how strange the dispositions and liberal
their creeds as you come in touch with their live
interpretation throughout the abodes of life.
Truly to know man, not as you see and know him
in your native heath, one must needs travel and
by general contact with him through his various
walks m life, thus study and learn to know hint
as he is.
4
50
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
Il: was here we met a very pleasant and friend¬
ly Episcopal clergyman, and how different was he
from the average gentleman of the cloth which
you are accustomed to meet in the States. Oh!
how sociable and what a difference association
makes when men unprejudiced by taint of senti¬
ment meet, and interests of purity at least unite
them in friendly embrace. Such was the freedom
of our acquaintance, and what a pleasant time
with mutual interest did we spend together.
On the 12th, we rounded up at Interlaken at
the foot of the White Mountain, but did not tra¬
verse its sides. On approaching Interlaken the
caps of the snow mountains as the sun is going
down presents a picture that is sublime in gran¬
deur.
As the light of old Sol throws its smiles up on
its whitened tops at the end of a successful day's
journey, it gives it the appearance of a huge mass
of gold, dazzling one's eyes as their dying smiles
and golden dust from eyebrows seem to fall upon
its sides.
Standing on the veranda,' the scene is enhanced,
as the moon, the proud queen of the night, in her
fiery garments, shakes her robes until the dust of
falling snow, appears like huge pieces of silver,
and each flake catching the dust as it falls from
the folds of her garments, making the appearance
of so many drops of pearl, as waters run down its
sides, looks like streams of melted rubies.
From here we moved to Cacciso, had our bag-
ZEMP'S KINGDOM.
51
gage inspected, and entered the land of the
Caesars, bidding adieu to the landscapes of the
picturesque Switzerland.
CHAPTER VII.
Victor Bmanuel's Kingdom.
On the 13th, we started for a tour of fair Italy,
which lies south of the Alps. What a delightful
emotion to the traveler as he enters and crosses
this famous country so renowned in the history
of the world, with its teeming rice glades, fields
of wheat, olive groves, marble quarries and an¬
tiquated ruins.
The country through which we travel is most
beautiful. Behold the luxuriant flax fields, with
its busy harvesters tieing it into bundles like
wheat, carrying it and piling it into stacks to dry,
after which it is placed into a pond of water,
rocks are piled on it, thence it is taken out to dry
again, and finally is laid away in the barns until
it is carted to the mills to be ground into meal.
Water melons and cantaloupes are seen grow¬
ing on the hills, but they are very small, much
smaller than the variety grown in the Southern
States of America. Their taste is not near so
sweet as the Western product, either.
The many small towns you pass look like small
cities and are scattered everywhere 011 the hills
and through the valley.
The country roads are hard to be excelled any¬
where. No wonder, for they have occupied the
attention of this people ever since the days of the
Mrs. PRISCILLA SALTER,
Wife and Companion of the Author.
VICTOR KMANUEL'S KINGDOM.
55
proucl and world-famed Roman, over which her
conquering legions sped their way.
Italy, like Switzerland, in many places of her
borders is very mountainous. Her tunnels
through which one must pass are endless and
horrid as well as interesting to the stranger of
limited experience. Without a guide book it is
impossible to give their names, as you are con¬
stantly going through their dismal caverns. We
passed through one that took the train twenty-
five minutes to reach the opening on the other
side. To say the least, we felt quite outdone
when we reached daylight once more. We de¬
sired never to pass through another one like it,
although we have had many similar experiences
since then.
Once we passed under a part of the snow moun¬
tains, which is a part of the Alps. One could
see the snow before and after entering. It is a
pretty sight to look upon, but does not give one
the best feeling while riding beneath.
Thus we continued across the beautiful coun¬
try until noon of the 13th day of August, when
we at last arrived at the lovely city of Venice in
the sea. And what a sight that bursts upon the
gaze of the stranger, the multitude of domes, tem¬
ples. palaces, columns, rising out of the bosom of
the waters, looked at a distance like a city under
water, and produced a feeling of surprise and
fear. Her palaces seemed to rise out of the sea,
and the churches sat so easily upon the waters,
56
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
that a feeling of sudden engulfment appeared to
be among the most natural fancies of the moment.
At night the lighting up of St. Marks contin¬
ued to heighten the magic of the spell. I could
scarcely imagine that I was at the end of my
journey and the place of my present sojourn.
The chief peculiarity of Venice is its insulated
position in the lagoon, and you move about
Venice entirely by gondola. To use any other
mode of conveyance would be but to disturb the
high associations connected with this queen of the
seas, and would be attended with no less incon¬
venience than fatigue. What could be more plea¬
sant than the noiseless tread of waters in a float¬
ing barge ? What more mysteriously fascinating
than a passage around and among her palaces
and churches, in a strange and mystic boat, with
nothing to disturb your reveries but the light
splash of the well-turned oar. or the long cry of
a passing gondolier? To have missed the sight
of Venice would have been to have blotted out a
day. Next to Rome, what city is freighted with
such pleasing memories of the past?
No time ought to be lost in visiting Venice, to
contemplate the works of Titian, the paintings of
Tintorette, the statues, the palaces, the temples
and the mausoleums, which are tottering on the
verge of destruction. Her singular position on
the bosom of the waves, disposes one to many
hours of reverie and repose; and even now, in her
decline, she seems to have slept away from the
VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM.
57
date of her ancient glories, as listlessly as she her¬
self seems to have slidden off from the terra-firma
of the shore.
Some years ago, a bold plan was proposed by
a zealous Venetian, in order to prevent the ruins
of his city, which was to join Venice to the Con¬
tinent. A road was to have been made at the
narrowest point of the lagoon as a means of com¬
munication, but the plan failed, and a railroad has
been substituted in its stead, a project no less use¬
ful, though not so poetical or imaginative in its
aspect.
The piazza of St. Mark's has not its like in
the world. The East and West are there brought
into each other's presence.
On one side, the ducal palace, where resides the
King, with its indented architecture, the balconies
and galleries of Arabian monuments, and the
Church of St. Mark's itself, with its angular front
and lead-covered cupolas, while again, regular
arcades, with shops, similar to the Palais Royal
at Paris.
The same contrast is to be found among the
men. There are Armenians, Turks, Greeks—
some lying down, others taking coffee and sher-
bert under large awnings of different brilliant
colors, resembling tents—some smoking perfumes
in their long amber-tipped pipes of rosewood (a
crowd of indolent and majestic automata), while
European travelers, and others, occupied with
their business, are hurriedly passing to and fro.
58
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
The infinite number of pigeons that cover the
piazza of St. Mark's, the cupola of the church,
and the roofs of the ducal palace, add also to the
mystic aspect of these monuments. These pig¬
eons, we are told, have been in Venice from its
earliest daj^s, and such was the interest they ex¬
cited that, to comply with the wishes of the pub¬
lic, it was decreed that they should not only re¬
main unmolested, but be fed at the expense of the
State.
Venice still palpitates in the piazza of St.
Mark's. This brilliant decoration costs a million
annually in repairs; while other distant quarters,
some of which possess magnificent palaces, were
left to fall into ruins. This corpse of a city is
already cold at the extremities—the life and heat
remaining are confined to the heart. At the ex¬
tremity of the piazza there are three pili or flag-
staffs, which formerly bore the glorious standard
of St. Mark, now replaced by the Italian flag.
The pedestals of these masts are bronze, and pos¬
sess the elegance and taste of the Grecian artists.
They have been there upwards of three centuries,
exposed to the injury of the air, the African
siroccos, and to the misty saline spray of the rag¬
ing Adriatic.
At one end of this piazza stands the Cathedral,
the church which the King attends. Underneath
its present pile rests the old church, beneath which
St. Mark; the Apostle is buried.
The basilic of St. Mark's was begun about the
VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 59'
tenth century. It is of a checkered architecture,
a mixture of Greek and Roman, but more espec¬
ially Gothic. On looking- at her minarets, mo¬
saics, basso-relievos of ornamental art, one feels
that the Adratic has been wedded to the East,
and that those peculiarities which are usually re¬
ceived from strangers, here, have only been trans¬
ferred in the varieties of her commerce.
On seeing these splendid compartments—the
golden arched roofs, the pavement of jasper and
porphyry, the five hundred columns of black,
white and veined marble, of bronze alabaster,
vert antique, and serpentine—one would feel in¬
clined to take this christian temple, except that it
is somewhat too gloomily lighted, to be a palace
of the Arabian Nights. Religion has preserved
all these riches, which might have been dissipated
in the speculations and enterprises of a commer¬
cial and navigating people.
The benitier, or holy-water vase, of porphyry,
is supported by an antique altar of Grecian sculp¬
ture, ornatnented with dolphins and tridents. One
of the bronze doors of the baptistery appears to
have been brought from the basilic of St. Sophia.
The bronze gate of the vestry occupied thirty
years of Sansovine's existence. The grand chan¬
delier of St. Mark's, notwithstanding the oddness
of its base, is considered one of the most remark¬
able works of its kind, for the taste and nature of
the figures and the elegance of the ornaments.
The very stones of Venice are indelibly impressed
60
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
with her history. A reel inarble pavement marks
the nave of the ancient church and the original
limit of the place of St. Mark. A white stone,
not far thence, in a retired street, shows where the
Catiline of Venice was killed by the accidental
fall of a flower pot, dislodged by a curious old
woman, who was watching his procession as he
passed beneath her window.
St. Mark's presents also a collection of relics
of the greatest antiquity, the various mementoes
of conquest and revolution. The four famous
horses of Corinth have resumed their former po¬
sition on the tribune, over the principal door.
Never was a trophy of victory more modestly
placed, or worse, for they are scarcely perceptible.
Won at Constantinople, brought back from Paris,
these Greeks or Roman steeds are associated with
the two grandest instances of taken towns that
history records.
But it is at evening that the Piazza of St. Mark's
awakes a golden or Gothic vision of Eastern
splendor and architectural grace. Then the noble
old Duomo, with its gilded cupola, silvered over
with a rich frosting of moonlight, revives the tales
of the Arabian Nights, or the splendors of the
vales of the Alhambra. Near by stands the old
Clock Tower, where two mechanical figures strike
the hours as they pass, and on both sides are the
facades of the Procuratic palaces, those brilliant
structures of Sansovino's genius, displaying the
perfection of their architectural symmetry.
VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM.
61
Amid all these, the high, grand, luminous mass
of the Campanile looms upward towards the sky,
towering above all, and guardian of that scene of
magical effects below, where the crowds of motley
wear are moving- in promenade, over the pave¬
ment, or seated at table with their ices, under the,
arcades of the palaces of St. Mark's.
DUCAL PALACE.
The Ducal Palace—the boast of Venice—by its
architecture and stern, gloomy aspect, gives no
bad representation to its ancient government; it
is the capitol of aristocratic power; its origin,
even, is surrounded with terrors; the Doge who
began it, Marine Faliero, lost his head, and the
architect was hung as a conspirator. The names,
too, of some parts' of it, are in unison with the
i'mpression it produces. The Giant's stairs, a su¬
perb structure, witnessed the coronation of the
Doges, and the Bridge of Sighs has the shape of
a large sarcophagus suspended over the sea. A
palace, a prison, and a tribunal, one might say, if
the word centralization were not ridiculous, ap¬
plied under such circumstances, that the Ducal
Palace had the first and most terrible example.
Notwithstanding the heavy, forbidden appear¬
ance of the Ducal Palace, the interior has some
rich works of art, which adorn her ceilings, and
cause you to forget the terrors of the Inquisition,
the Lion's Mouth, or deep dungeons of pozzi.
Its exterior has some elegant details, and in
some parts is remarkable, in an artistic point of
■62
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
view. The capitals of the Tuscan columns, in the
front, ornamented with foliage, figures, and sym¬
bols, original masterpieces of a taste at once bold
and pure, and so interesting for the history of art,
are chiefly by Calendario, the Michael Angelo of
the middle ages—equally eminent as a sculptor
and architect,—whose foundations of the Ducal
Palace, on the unstable soil of Venice, are still a
miracle for solidity.
The by-gone glory and splendor of Venice are
conspicuous in every part of the Palace. The in¬
terior walls are decorated with the frescoes of
Titian, the paintings of Veronese, the superb
works of Palladio, and the immense entablatures
of Tintorette, which recall the grand events of
its history. These beautiful works breathe a
species of patriotis'm. Venice ever stands forth
in them as the emblems of'might, grandeur and
beauty ; and she is a powerful goddess, who
breaks the chains of the bondsman, and receives
the homage of subjug-ated cities ; she is seated in
Heaven amid the saints; she is represented as sit¬
ting between Justice and Peace ; she is encircled
by the Virtues, crowned by Victory, or appears in
the clouds amid a throng of deities; allegory there
loses its ordinary coldness, as it serves to express
a feeling of patriotic pride.
What a melancholy of pleasure there is in step¬
ping from the quay into your gondola and gliding
along the grand canal, in wandering amid those
superb palaces, those ancient aristocratic dwell-
VICTOR EMANUEL'S KINGDOM. 63
ings which bear such fine names, and are the
memorials of so much power and glory, but are
now desolate, shattered, or in ruins. These
Moorish windows, these balconies, whence the
fair Venetian, shut up like the Eastern dame, but
volatile as the European, appeared to her lover,
as he reluctantly retreated to his gondola, are now
dilapidated, without glass, or rudely boarded.
Some few of them, in good condition, only bear
the inscription of some of the authorities of the
ancients. In the midst of this distraction the
gardens supply the place of the buildings at
Venice.
But alas, we bid thee adieu, fairest city of the
sea, amid your day dreairis upon canals, with
nightly visions of Aladdin lustre, by her moon¬
lights and the torch flames of St. Mark's Piazza
which were the sum and rounding of our day
vigils and thrilling life spent in so short a time at
Venice.
Venice, thou art "A thing of beauty and a joy
forever."
CHAPTER VIII.
Rome—The Vatican—and the Home
of the Caesars.
Wednesday, August the 14th, we made our de¬
parture for the capital and famous city of Rome.
We passed through Bologne, thence the beautiful
city of Florence amid its verdure and zephyr
breezes that has distinguished it as one of the
fairest of Italy's daughters. At 11:25 we drew
up at the Continental Hotel, and at last became
conscious that we were embraced in the arms of
this most historic spot of civilization,—the world.
Entering Rome by moon-light, the Eternal City
was hushed in the solemn silence of the night,
bathed in a flood of the richest light.
It was a transport of deep joy to be in Rome,
there to collect mementoes for a life-time and a
day from which to date an epoch. We looked
upon the Coliseum and its collossal mass of ruins
and its arcades appeared truly resplendent. Each
step, as we clambered over the different stages of
the majestic pile opened a new chapter in the his¬
tory of the changes which had taken place during
eighteen centuries. No monument of antiquity—
for none so fit to represent the imag-e of ancient
Rome—has experienced so many different fortunes,
or such a diversity of uses, as this. A magnifi-
ROME—THE VATICAN
65
cent circus of gladiators, under Titus—an arena
of martyrs, under Diocletian, and a military re¬
doubt; it was a hospital during- plagues, or a list
for tournaments of knights; then a stone quarry,
from which most of the palaces of Rome have
been built. What barbarians have handled its
vastness, to corrupt its beauty by a taint of their
sacrilegious art. Its ruined appearance is one of
its greatest beauties. It has already been too
much renovated, and rebuilt, and modernized.
The Cross is now planted within the walls of
the amphitheatre, where Christian martyrs were
burned. It still stands a monument of the vic¬
tories, festivals, crimes, and imperial pleasures
of ancient Rome—the ruined Mausoleum to thee.
There are many churches of interest to be vis¬
ited in this most historic city. A chapel has been
erected over the spot where St. Peter was tried;
Tt also contains the chain with which the Apostle
was bound in prison at Jerusalem.
In the interior of the Mamertine prison—that
terrible ancient dungeon, formed, of enormous
stones, joined together without cement—-there is
now a chapel consecrated to St. Peter and St.
Paul, who, by tradition, are said to have been
imprisoned there.
A beautiful church also marks the place where
St. Paul was buried. But of all the churches that
form the chief object of the traveler in Italy, St.
Peter's is the first wonder that he seeks to con¬
template. The double colonnade to the colossal
peristyle of travertine marble is the grandest in
the world.
66
tTHE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
In the middle of the piazza rises the obelisk of
red granite, which, being without hieroglyphics,
can only be a Roman imitation of the Egyptian
obelisk brought over by Caligula.
The two majestic fountains, that throw up their
waters on each side of the piazza, worthily com¬
plete its decoration, whether seen by day, when
the rays of the sun form brilliant rainbows, or at
night, when the moonlight adds to the whiteness
of their foaming streams, whose unceasing mur¬
murs inspire and cherish the soul's imaginings.
The population, the manners of the city, more¬
over, offer a thousand contrasts. It is here on
this piazza that poor peasants, loaded with their
baggage, prostrate themselves on this pavement
of marble, before the altars resplendent with gold
and precious stones. On entering the edifice they
kiss the holy door, which profane and thoughtless
travelers cover with their names, while persons
of the lower order talk of their affairs before a
confessional, with their confessor who is inside.
The interior of St. Peter is rich, ornate, and
magnificent, rather than tasteful; but the bad and
the exaggerated which abounds there, does not
fail, on the whole, to contribute to the effect, and
to have a kind of grandeur.
The bronze statue of St. Peter, whose right
toe has been worn out by the kisses of the devo¬
tional, was not a Jupiter, as some suppose. Here
is to be seen the great genius of Michael Angelo
the immortal cupola, which completes this sub-
ROME—THE VATICAN
67
lime creation of architectural grandeur. In this
edifice the Pope conducts worship twice a year;
he is also the visible head of the church and lays
claims to temporal sovereignity, having State of¬
ficers attached to his court.
These, and his body of clerical attendants, are
to be found in his private chapel, where the of¬
fices are performed by his clergy, but in which
the proper respect is always paid to his holiness,
both as the pontiff and the sovereign; he occa¬
sionally performs some fewr of the ecclesiastical
functions.
THE VATICAN.
The Vatican represents the religious grandeur
of Modern Rome, as the Capitol did the martial
and triumphant greatness of Ancient Rome. But
this palace, once noted for its eleven hundred
rooms—the pontifical court, long so pompous—
is now all simplicity and moderation, the Pope's
expenditure barely exceeding that of a President.
The Vatican no longer thunders; in our days it is
nothing more than the most extensive of mu¬
seums, and a curious monument of the architec¬
tural talent of the great artists of the past. Here
is to be found most of the master paintings of the
Catholic Church, priceless manuscripts, library
and statues of Popes.
OLD ROME.
Passing through the walled gate, you enter
Old Rome. What a strange feeling to one as
you are transferred by thought into the thrilling
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
activities of centuries past. The wall around the
city is said to be fifteen miles. Here we behold
the ruins of the golden house in which Xero once
lived, the houses that required forty thousand
workmen to build, and who were cruelly put to
death, at its completion by the Emperor as an
opening ceremonv. Here still remains the street
wherein the women by X'ero's order were so
shamefully mistreated, and again the abode or
Catacombs where this tyrant imprisoned the
Christians; this awful place lies underneath the
surface and is three stories high. Oh. what a
dark, dreary and awful chasm. With a small
taper in hand and by the direction of a faithful
guide, we traverse its hideous vaults amid th^
bones and dust of those ancient martyrs to thf;
faith of Jesus Christ.
As the eye darts into these dusky chambers ot
death, it catches glimpses of quaint effigies: some-
kneeling in niches, as if in devotion: others
stretched upon the tombs, with hands piously
pressed together. Tn glancing over this scene, so
strangely populous, yet where everv form is so
still and silent it seems almost as if we were
treading a mansion of that fabled citv, where
every being had been suddenly transmuted int.-
stone.
What a privilege to stand encircled bv the
Seven Hills so famous for its temples, palace-
and forums, but alas, whose history is buried with
the past and its noble heroes.
ROME—THE VATICAN
69
To-day is one of Rome's holidays, more prop¬
erly known the "Announcement of the Concep¬
tion of the Virgin Alary." All places of business
are closed, the people have irrespective of condi¬
tion turned themselves loose for a merry time.
I have seen many rough and gay people, but these
are the most boisterous set I have ever seen; they
are on the streets, in the roads, inns and saloons,
drinking intoxicants, playing cards and behaving
as badly as they know how. On visiting another
church, I believe it is called St. Mary's, we be¬
hold the people descending the steps on their
hands and knees and placing money on the altar:
no one departs without kissing the floor.
The steps have the legend of being those lead¬
ing from Pilate's temple and the ones which Jesus
descended after His condemnation. We again
visited the Cathedral of St. Peter, where we for
the second time met our party of Bishops and
ministers. It g'oes without saying that we were
more than glad to meet each other again. After
a pleasant chat we separated. We visited the
Pope's residence, but were unable to see His Holi¬
ness. Even his own subjects have to procure a
permit from one of the Cardinals of the church.
However we very profitably spent our time in ex¬
amining many other features of interest. The
court is very heavily guarded by soldiers; they
are to be seen on every hand.
The Old Woman was so amazed that she re¬
marked, "I aim uable to see what was the comfort
70
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
ill being a King or a Pope, as they must be in
danger all the time; they are always so heavily
guarded."
Rome at her best is a very dirty city. The
streets are filthy and the people appear no better,
either in dress or habits.
The great mass of people seem to be very poor.
They are to be seen in great numbers around St.
Peter's begging for alms. It is surprising to see
so much poverty around this famous city, where
everything is Catholic, with her many priests and
sisters of charity. This will not be wondered at,
when it is viewed in the light of the great taxa¬
tion that is constantly required by the church to
keep up her rich appointments.
Before taking our leave from old Rome, we
visited the present Kingf.s palace, the tomb of
Pope Pious; beheld the house of one of the ille¬
gitimate daughters of one of the old Popes, which
for some reason is preserved as a relic, and then
prepared for our departure for Paris.
"Rome, a ruin, yet that ruin from its massive
Walls; palaces and cities, have been reared
And when Rome falls the world."
Delegates of the A. M. E. Church to Ecumenical Conference, London, England.
CHAPTER IX.
I/Oubet's Kingdom.
And now we are off to France, cozily situated
in our sleeping apartment, for which we paid
twenty dollars and fifty cents. You may judge
by this the great length of our journey ere we
reach Paris, our next stopping place. The time
required in making the trip across the continent
is one and one-half days and two nights. As
usual in this part of the country, we have to ride
under many tunnels, one of which has taken u-,
thirty minutes to run its length.
For several hours along this route we travel
the banks of the beautiful Mediterranean sea.
through the cities of Genoa, Turine, and Modane,
the latter being the terminus of Italy, where again
we had to undergo the inspection of the custom
officials.
The scenery through this part of Italy is muc'i
different than any we have thus far witnessed. It
is the great corn belt and the only part of the
country through which we have passed that we
have noticed the growth of this product.
During this journey an accident happened to a
strange man who was walking too close to the
train. He was not killed, but seriously injured.
France is not now a kingdom in a political seuse; it has been ard in
the light under which it now appears and as we have been impressed,
we thus name or discuss it as such.
74
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
The train stopped and picked him up, carrying"
him to the next station, where he was given over
for medical attention.
France as an open country is beautiful and in¬
teresting" to the traveler. Industry is to be seen
on every hand among- the peasant class. All along
the road the people were busy working in the
fields, some plowing, cutting grass, hauling hay,
in fact engaged in all kinds of farm work, such as
is common to see in certain parts of the States.
We desired to reach Paris on Sunday morning
in time for service, but as the train was late, in
this we were disappointed.
At 10:40 A. AI., Sunday, August the 18th, we
at last arrived in Paris, the city of fashion and
entertainment.
We registered at the Hotel London cle New
York and were assigned a very comfortable and
cozy little room. We shortly made the acquain¬
tance of a most excellent gentleman and lady, Mr.
Harbord and wife, whose friendship we found
to be most congenial and helpful during our stay
in Paris. With them we made several excursions
of the city, attended divine services and the like.
Paris is the world where you can see every¬
thing, and get everything; where all the conven¬
iences of life, and all the means of culture are pro¬
vided. It is a place, too, where those who seek
for pleasure can readily find, it under every forin.
The amount of dissipation in such a city must
be enormous, and yet it is so regulated and veiled
LOU BET'S KINGDOM.
10
as not to obtrude itself grossly upon the public
eye. The French in their pleasures are epicures,
who know how to prolong enjoyment and to
nourish the capacity for enjoyment to the last
pulsation of existence.
Paris wears an air of refinement and cultivation
which meets you everywhere. The long, elegant¬
ly built, well paved and clean streets, and par¬
ticularly the wide and airy boulevards which oc¬
cupy the ground of the ancient ramparts demol¬
ished in the reign of Louis XIV., and which were
once planted with double rows of magnificent
trees on either side; the splendor of the public
buildings, and particularly the palaces with their
extensive gardens adorned with statues; the tri¬
umphal arches and monumental columns; the
quays on the Seine giving the appearance of a
river flowing between massive and smoothly-
built walls, with frequent wide stone stairs lead¬
ing- down to it; the bridges which connect the
banks, and the view presented from the'm, up and
down the river, where, in one direction, are pal¬
aces and gardens, and, in another, tall dwellings
of various descriptions; the magnificence of the
shops—the manners of everybody, from high to
low—a sort of polish, ease and readiness; in fine,
everything, and every person shows the marks of
the metropolitan city—the imperial city—the city
of fashion, art and grace.
The imperial city—who can believe it republi¬
can? On the public buildings, on the churches.
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
are the words Liberte, but the buildings and the
churches notwithstanding are imperial, and the
words appear out of place. It makes one smile
to read them. Stand in the grand entrance of the
Tuilcries, and look up through the wide avenue
of the gardens to the Palace de la Concorde,
where stands the obelisk Luxor, and beyond the
avenue Champs Elvsee to the grand arch—a view
of two miles—and what do you see but imperial
grandeur? On every side are soldiers. The vast
pile stretches right and left—a facade of three
hundred or more yards. Pass through the main
entrance to the court of the Tuileries on the east
side, and here you see the long and gorgeous
wings of the palace stretching out to meet the
Louvre, fortning an immense square where an
army can be reviewed, and where Napoleon was
wont to review his troops.
Here too is the arch Triumph, supported by
eight splendid Corinthian columns, with bases
and capitals of bronze. The arch is covered with
representations of Napoleon's victories.
Returning to the broad avenue of the Champs
Elysee, you behold the Arch de l'Etoile—the
proudest monument erected by Napoleon; its
height,one hundred and fifty-two feet; its breadth,
one hundred and thirty-seven feet; its depth,
sixty-eight feet. Behold it ornamented with
groups of figures wrought on the surface. There
is the Genius of War summoning the nations to
battle, and there they are arming and rushing to-
LOUBET'S KINGDOM.
gether. There is victory crowning Napoleon;
Fame and History are recording his deeds, while
conquered cities lie at his feet. The battles o*
Napoleon, the forms of his generals are there.
It is a monumental history of his life. You can
ascend the monument, and then the imperial city
lies beneath you.
We attended the Louvre, a museum appro¬
priated to the arts, Greek architecture and Greek
sculpture and famous paintings by the great mas¬
ters of the brush.
The Pantheon is a sight most interesting, and
is consecrated to the memory of the great men of
France. In its dome is a painting containing
nearly four thousand square feet, where are rep¬
resented the forms of kings and queens of the
past.
Within and without one breathes only princely
grace and glory. Indeed, Paris is France.
Notre Dame is its greatest cathedral, the place
where monarchs were crowned. It is the West¬
minster Abbey of France. In the church of the
Hotel des Invalides stands the tomb of Napoleon,
one of the most magnificent in the world. Every
way you look, every where you go, all is imper¬
ialism.
In Paris, how can the people escape from the
symbols and the pervading presence of mon¬
archy? Whatever they see and converse with,
seems to predestine them to a monarchy.
The establishment of our republic was a wide-
78
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
ly different affair from creating a republic out of
a monarchy. Although out of the monarchy oi
England, here there were no ancient signs and
symbols of monarchy. We were on the virgin
soil of nature, with the unchartered privileges of
forests and prairies and rivers.
All objects around us called us back to natural
rights, instead of making us feel the weight of
prescription. We received direct from the liana
of God what the Old World has received by in¬
heritance, through forms of law, and under the
protection of ancient authorities. There, govern¬
ment appeared omnipotent; in the wild woods of
America God alone appeared omnipotent. There,
government was the work of former generations,
and had its roots in the mysteries of the vener¬
able past; here nothing was old but nature, and
government had to be planted by our own hands,
to grow up in our own sight, and to be perfected
by our own labors. There, society like the cities,
the roads and the bridges, and the works of art,
were already made and fashioned, had its grades,
its moulds of thought, its forms of expression,
its manners, its laws, all established—all absolute.
In the Old World, to create a republic is to
make war upon what the men before us have been
doing for a thousand years. To create our re¬
public in the New World, was to make war upon
nothing, but to begin a happy existence under the
calm sunshine, and in the free air of heaven.
Thus is to be judged the difference between
LOUBET'S KINGDOM.
7!)
what one sees in a republic of the Eastern and
Western world, and especially the stamp of im¬
perialism so surprising- to the traveler as beheld
in all the grandeur and magnificence of the repub¬
lic of France, more particularly Paris; here the
President is the state, the state is Paris, Paris is
France, and France aims to be Europe.
The imperial prestige about Paris certainly in ¬
creases its interest to a visitor; and in walking-
through its vast and luxurious domains, he feels
that the actual presence of royalty is necessary to
the completeness of the scene.
The French have many striking and attractive
points of character. One of these, which every
one feels at once, is their exceeding- polish and
grace. The educated and well-bred French are
perfectly agreeable in the ordinal^ and daily inter¬
course of life. Their manners are easy and nat¬
ural, and equally removed from hauteur and af¬
fectation. You feel entirely at home with them,
and receive from them a thousand little attentions,
which are paid out without the least approach to
condescension, and, indeed, in a way that would
seem to say that they are obliged to you for per¬
mitting- them.
This courteous disposition prevails among all
classes, it is found among- the shop-keepers, opera¬
tives of all kinds, and the blouses in the street.
The whole people are pervaded by a spirit of
politeness.
Paris is the great Emporium of Fashion.
0
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
Here the world resorts for modes and shapes.
Hats, boots, dresses, shawls, coats, pantaloons,
vests, overalls, cravats—everything' that goes to
fit out the outer man of the man; the numberless
and unnameable articles which go to furnish and
adorn beauty, in spite of the poet that says, "that
beauty when unadorned is most adorned; what
ever makes up the style of life are to be found in
this gay and lively city. What is here determined
and adopted at once becomes proper and graceful
everywhere. Parisian—what a charm there is in
that word, how much it expresses, what authority
it carries with it; a new style from this great
center flies through the world like a flash every¬
where, and myriads of hands are set at work copy¬
ing and reproducing, until a whole generation of
old and young, of grave and gay. receive a new
appearance with more or less extravagance.
We attended divine service in the Wesleyan
chapel in company with our newly-made friends,
it was the lirst Methodist church we came across
since leaving London, the service was in English
and highly relished by us. The minister, a grave
and elderly man conducted the same in a most im¬
pressive manner and having concluded that I was
a clergyman of some Protestant bearing', formed
my acquaintance and invited me to assist in the
consecration service of Communion, this promin¬
ence seemed to create much interest among th?
worshippers. At the conclusion of the service the¬
ir inister sought acquaintance with the Old
LOUBET'S KINGDOM.
81
Woman and desired that we repair to the parlor
for conversation, which, however, we were unable
to accept at this time.
The prevailing form of religion in this gay city
of fashion and pleasure is Roman Catholic, which
liberalizes pleasure with its day of service.
On entering Paris on Sunday, we found all the
shops open, and the out-door world was going on
as usual. In the afternoon some of the shops are
closed, this is after the hours for religious wor¬
ship. Then the Sabbath is made a day of recrea¬
tion, and the gardens of the Tuilleries, and the
Champs Elvsee, are crowded with people sitting,
standing or walking about.
What then is the Sunday in Paris, and what is
religious worship? The Notre Dame or Made-
liene. as it is mostly called, in connection with the
open shops, and the thronged places of amuse¬
ment, represents the religion of the Parisians—
ceremonial, elegant, magnificent, mingled with
business, gayety and pleasure. The humble Wes-
leyan Chapel represents that worship which Christ
spoke of when He said, "Where two or three are
gathered together in My name, there am I in the
midst of them."
The infidelity which prevailed in France during
the Revolution was a rebellion of awakened intel¬
lect, unacquainted with the true gospel, against
the monstrous superstitions, united with priestly
ambition and sensuality, which were palmed upon
men as Christianity. That infidelity has never
6
82
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
been eradicated; nor can it be until the minds o:
the people are brought in contact with the simple
Christianity of the Gospel.
There is one thing which at once strikes an
American in walking about Paris;—young
women of rank—I mean unmarried young women
—are not met with in the streets, or on the prom¬
enades. He will find. too. that they are not intro¬
duced into society. Their period of education is
one of of seclusion. The tendency of this is to
produce a higher refinement of manners and a
more perfect education.
The intense activity which characterizes
Americans appears in every relation of society,
and causes us to jump to our conclusions and re¬
sults. We are in a hurry to do everything. We
are in a hurry to be men and women, in a hurry
to complete our education, in a hurry to get mar¬
ried, in a hurry to get rich, in a hurry to set up
an establishment, and to plunge into the dissipa¬
tion of society.
Boys and girls are disappearing from among
us, the beautiful modesty and innocent pleasures
of youth are fast becoming a mere legend of the
past, and our children go out from the nursery
full-grown men and women. Nothing can correct
this but a higher culture, creating a higher stan¬
dard of manners and accomplishments.
A singular and striking street fad, is the respect
or obeisiance paid the dead; it matters not whether
one is acquainted with the deceased or not,
IyOUBET'S kingdom.
83
whether they be high or low, rich or poor, every
passerby is supposed to tip his hat at the funeral
cortege as it hurriedly passes by. Such was our
experience on one of our outings, our guide espied
the procession approaching, informed us of the
custom and had us prepared to do the Parsian act.
To say the least there is a sense of the highest
respect, if not the greatest moral taught by this
custom and would not be far drawn if it were
transferred to the western world.
One day we met a brown-skinned woman and
a very black man, we felt that at last we were
again coming in. touch with the race variety with
which we were the most familiar, while Paris, so
well stocked with all other types of mankind, was
none the less lacking for the Negro.
Another interesting feature during our stay
here was a visit to the Catholic cemetery in com¬
pany with our friends the Hubords, it is a very
costly place, magnificent, if such a term is appro¬
priate ; extravagance in costliest monuments and
flowers are to be seen everywhere.
The monument of a deceased priest was pointed
out to us, it bears a significant history, they say,
this priest seduced a young' and pretty girl, who
afterwards entered a convent, the priest and
espoused latter died and because of the singular
attachment of these parties in the romance, friends
interested themselves to the extent of erecting this
beautiful 'monument.
Continuing our drive, we visited the exposition
84
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
grounds., but little was to be seen of this great ex¬
hibition site which had cost so many millions and
which so lately had attracted such large con¬
courses of humanity from all parts of the world.
Having repaired to Cooks' & Sons office to
register, we were happily surprised to meet
Bishops Derrick, Arnett and Tanner, also Prof.
Scarborough and his wife, who were preparing
for a visit to the continent. In company with the
party we rode to the Catholic cathedral, among
the many features of interest we examined the
statue of one of the bishops of this church, it was
headless and in his hands he held his head, it is
said that he was executed, and after his head was
severed that he reached out with his hands and
picked it up, I would not vouch for the truthful¬
ness of this legend, every sight of interest is
marked with some fanciful story wherever found
in this part of the world.
.Here also is the famous painting of the woman
who for years masqueraded as a man, was once
the savior of France in one of the wars of the past,
and then became powerful in the affairs of the
church. She was afterwards excommunicated
and burned for becoming- the mother of a child bv
one of the Cardinals, then she was considered a
witch, now the}- look upon her as a saint and pay
her homage.
After receiving and exchanging- calls from the
Bishops, Drs. Johnson and Beckett and the Scar-
boroughs, we began to bring our excursionings in
this thrilling city to a close.
LOUBET'S KINGDOM.
85
We drove to the old country line of Paris, be¬
held her ancient arch gate, visited the zoological
gardens and the old church where the queen was
tried and condemned for caring for the poor and
starving, they were penniless and without bread.
The queen thereupon ordered that if there was no
bread, then give them cake; the rich people be¬
came insulted and infuriated and resented their
affront by the execution of this good woman.
August the 24th we arranged our baggage,
settled hotel bill, which was live francs and put off
for London.
The Harboards, who by this time had become
our fast friends, accompanied us to the depot, and
as they said, regretted very much our departure.
Our first stop was Rhone, here we crossed the
beautiful river Siene, thence through a tunnel as
usual, arriving at Dieppe, we took the steamer
for New Haven. Our trip across the English
Channel wras very pleasant, a calm was on the
deep, much to our satisfaction and for the excep¬
tion of the splashing of the waves reached the
port in safety. Taking the car we arrived at Lon¬
don once more 011 Saturday night about eight
o'clock, proceeded to St. Ermine's hotel and again
became its guest.
I had seen so much and had so many similiar
experiences since my first introduction to this
place of magnificence and extensive journey
through the continent, that my feelings had un¬
dergone a great change and now the bracing up
86
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
of the Old Woman was not required as it was on
my first entry to this place.
I am sure my higher spirits and my effort of
bravery was a thing of much gratification to her.
CHAPTER X.
Back in I/ondon.
On our arrival at St. Ermines' we were pleased
to note that Bishop Gaines and daughter had pre¬
ceded us and 'would change the monotony of the
past week, for an association of old acquaint¬
ances.
We also learned that some of the white Ameri¬
can boarders had, previous to our return, entered
a protest with the proprietor of the hotel, against
the Negro tourists, and would leave the hotel
themselves if the Negro fraternity were not re¬
jected.
The manly proprietor, who 110 doubt was free
from such narrow prejudices, as is boasted of in
America, very positively but frankly gave these
sticklers to understand, "That he did not make
any distinction with his boarders, all he required
was good behavior and pay for their privileges."
This put a quietus to the furor, and finding they
were not in the Southern states of America, our
white Cousins were no farther heard from on
this subject. Better that they had learned the
cosmopolitan bearing of the English atmosphere
before and such a striking and humiliating lesson
would not in this instance have been taught them.
Sunday, August the 25th, in company with
Bishop Gaines and daughter, we attended morn-
88
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
ing service at City Roads Chapel, this is the
church where the Conference sessions are to be
held. The building is old, plain, but pleasant in
appearance, many of the furnishings including
the pulpit, still remain that were used by AVesley
and his congregation.
At 3:15 P. M., we went to St. Paul's Episco¬
pal Church and heard a most delightful sermon
bv the Rector; at 7 P. M., we worshiped at West¬
minister Abbey, returned to our hotel and retired
for the night.
Monday, August the 26th, called at Cooks'
office, inquired for mail but were disappointed
in not finding any, we went a shopping, called
on the tailor and as it began to rain, we entered
a carriage and returned to our hotel.
The evening was very pleasantly spent in com¬
pany with Bishop Gaines and daug-hter.
August the 29th, we visited Wesley's old home,
it cost us three cents a piece for admission, we
inspected his bed room and library; it was not
what I expected to see. There was also a pin
cushion that had been used by Susan Wesley, the
pulpit and studv-chair, in which Wesley himself
sat.
Friday, the 30th, was informed by Bishop
Gaines, who had received the Recorder, of the
death of Revs. Nixon and Bryant. The Pastor
of the Congregational Church during the day,
paid us a call and arranged with me to preach the
second Sunday night in September at his church.
The Old Woman was very poorly in health dur-
Interior of Wesley Chapel where Ecumenical Conference was held.—London.
BACK. IN J.02s'DON.
91
ing the night, but improved very much before
morning.
Saturday, the 31st, Rev. J. Beckett called 011
us and in company with him, we went to inspect
the hotel that the Conference Committee had pro¬
vided for the entertainment of the colored dele¬
gates. I was not at all impressed with the ar¬
rangements.
Returning to our hotel I called on Bishops
Derrick, Gaines and Arnett; Rev. Ransom ar¬
rived from Paris this evening.
Sunday, September the 1st, attended service
with Prof. Scarborough and wife at City Roads
Chapel in the morning and at Westminster Ab¬
bey at night, Bishop Gaines preached at this ser¬
vice. The congregation was not so large, but
the service was excellent, the Bishop made a good
impression.
Monday, the 2nd, this is our twenty-seventh
marriage anniversary. Congratulations were ex¬
tended us from all members of our delegation.
The Bishops blessed us. Revs. Johnson and
Beckett paid us a call. The delegates including
all the Bishops, who have been touring the conti¬
nent have by this time returned to London and
are preparing for the sessions of the Ecumenical
Conference.
Tuesday, the 3d, all the Bishops here visiting
had their pictures taken to-day on the piazza of
the hotel St. Ermines.
Bishop Smith, Prof, and Mrs. Scarborough
:92
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
paid us calls to-day. The various committees of
the ~~~...erence are now meeting, therefore re¬
quiring the services of many of our delegates.
The same is quite a treat, as it helps greatly to
employ the time and to prevent us from idleness.
ECUMENICAL CONFERENCE.
Wednesday, September the 4th, all is astir,
the great Conference convenes to-dav, everybody
is making ready. Our party, including Bishops
Derrick, Arnett, Smith, and Prof Scarborough
and wife, procured an omnibus and rode to the
Chapel together. The women were provided with
tickets of admission and were accorded places in
the gallery.
The Conference opened with regular Methodist
religious services. Bishop Arnett occupied a
place on the platform. Bishop Galloway, of the
M. E. Church South, preached the opening ser¬
mon, the discourse occupied the time of more
than an hour for its delivery, but was a grand,
powerful and masterly effort. No delegate from
the Western division could help but feel
proud of such a worthy representative, I am sure
that the whole Conference were equally elated
in the possession of such an able divine as the
product of Methodism.
Communion was administered to the Confer¬
ence at the close of the sermon, notices were read
and a recess taken for lunch.
Lunch >was served at the Armory for the con¬
venience of the delegates. I did not think very
BACK IN LONDON.
much of the service at this time, it became better
later on, however.
During this recess the conference gathered in
the church yarcl and had their pictures taken. At
2 o'clock they reassembled, and listened to the
welcome addresses extended to the Conference.
Bishop Derrick delivered an address in the morn¬
ing, he was the first of our delegation to enjoy
this honor and proved himself to be equal to the
occasion, his speech was a most eloquent and
powerful one and at its conclusion moved the
house to the greatest applause.
Thursday, the 5th, Conference opened at 10 A..
M., many good speeches were made on the floor
this morning. The Conference thus far is not
just what I expected it to be. One thing I have
noticed, the white delegates pay but very little
attention to their colored brethren.
Bishop Smith was one of the principle speak¬
ers this morning, also Dr. Mason, of the M. E.
Church.
At night a grand reception was given the body,
every attention was given to make this gathering-
all that could be expected. The delegates looked
very nice in this their first social. Speeches were-
delivered and after a most pleasant evening all
retired to their respective quarters. Prof. Scar¬
borough and wife were the other members in our
party this evening.
Friday, the 6th, Bishop Derrick again made n
telling and well received speech on the floor of
'94
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
the Conference this morning. Several of the
Southern delegates endeavored to make inflam¬
matory speeches, but did not make much of a
headway at it, their efforts were weakly made and
sentiment poorly received.
Prof. Scarborough delivered an address at St.
James' Hall to-night, but owing to delayed ar¬
rangements at the hotel we were unable to get
there in time. The papers gave him a very fav¬
orable mention however, as well as others we
heard speak of him.
During the evening Bishop Tanner, son,
daughter-in-law and Mrs. Scarborough were
guests at our rooms, after a very pleasant so¬
journ all departed to their apartments for the
night.
Saturday, the 7th, Bishop Arnett was the pre¬
siding officer of the day. I gave out the morning
hymn. Dr. Hubbard, our financial secretary, of¬
fered a very fervent prayer as characteristic of
him, and Bishop Lomax, of the Zion church, read
the Scriptures, Rev. Beckett sang a solo entitled
"Saved by Grace."
During this session the sad and startling news
was received of the assassination of President
McKinley. The body was greatly affected. A
number of speeches were made in sympathy with
the fallen and the Government of the States. The
subject of the day was then taken up on "Chris¬
tian Faith," which brought forth some very good
discussions. Conference adjourned at 12:45
respect to the memory of President McKinley.
BACK IN LONDON.
95
During the afternoon we rode over the Lon¬
don bridge, visiting the Tower, beheld the beauti¬
ful Thames bedecked with her magnificent flo¬
tilla of ships, and being quite fatigued, returned
to our hotel, enjoyed an inviting repast and re¬
tired for the night.
Sunday, the 8th, I had been invited to preach
at eleven o'clock at the Wesley church at Sidy-
ham. We took the 9 130 train and after an hour's
ride reached our point of destination. The at¬
tendance was very large and so pleased were the
minister and congregation, that we were prevail¬
ed upon to remain over and speak at the nigh1:
service. This we were unable to do at this time
as we already had another engagement awaiting
us in London for the evening hour.. Our stay was
a very pleasant one while here. We took dinner
with a very wealthy English gentleman and fam¬
ily and were handsomely treated. Before leav¬
ing we were permitted to visit the Crystal Palace,
a large and beautiful structure all made of glass.
We arrived in London at 4 P. M., and after re¬
freshments drove to the Congregational church,
where I endeavored to preach the Word to a
waiting congregation. It rained all evening, but
the attendance was large and the service satisfac¬
tory; the service began at 7:00 and dismissed at
8 :3c). Returning- to our hotel we retired for the
night after a hard day's labor for the Lord in n
foreign land.
Monday, the 9th, the morning session of the
Conference was interesting but brief. We took
recess at high noon.
96
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
The white ladies called a meeting" to arrange
for a missionary gathering on the coming Fri¬
day night, the Old Woman attended. Mrs.
Bishop Clinton and Mrs. Randolph were the
other colored women present. After the meeting
was called to order the arrangement of a pro¬
gramme was considered and Mrs. Clinton was
assigned to sing- a plantation melody. At the
close of the meeting the Old Woman and Mrs.
Randolph spoke to Mrs. Clinton about the part
on the programme given her. They did not think
the assignment a complimentary one as a repre¬
sentation on their part, and finally agreed to pro¬
test the same at the next meeting.
At the afternoon session of the Conference
two papers were read, one by a white delegate
and the other by Prof. Kealing. The effort of
the latter was very grand indeed and brought
forth great applause, even the daily papers the
following morning spoke in the highest terms of
praise of his paper; we all were very proud.
In the evening a missionary meeting was held
at St. James' Hall, Bishop Derrick was accorded
the chair by Bishop Hartzell, of the M. E.
church, and he presided in an able manner to the
delight of all. The speeches were very good.
Tuesday, the ioth. Bishop Tyree and Dr. Hub¬
bard spoke during the morning and made a very
grand impression as could only be expected of
them.
At 12 o'clock the women recalled their meeting
for a business session. Our three colored women1
BACK IN LONDON.
97
were on hand, reinforced this time by Mrs. Ma¬
son. During the discussion as to how many
speakers there should be on the programme and
as to who they would be, the Old Woman arose
and objected to the part already assigned the col¬
ored ladies and gave them to understand that
singing of plantation .melodies in this day and
time was not representation nor effort in mission-
any work. Of course the committee was much
surprised at this frankness and began to offer all
kinds of excuses, but the assault had the desired
effect and they not only changed this feature from
the programme, but assigned them a paper to
read.
The Old Woman, who seemed bent on having
their rights recognized or nothing at all, then
proposed to Mrs. Mason that she present Mrs.
Clinton to read the paper and that she would
support her effort, the same carried and the wo¬
men were proud in the victory achieved for their
proper recognition and to know that if they were
to take any part at all in this affair of the ladies,
it would have to be on the basis of equality and
ability or nothing" at all.
In the evening we were invited to a reception
given by the Hon. Mr. Perks, a member of Parlia¬
ment, at his Kensington Palace garden. The
affair was the grandest of its kind I have ever
attended or witnessed in my life. The whole
lawn was covered with a canvass pavillion of red,
white and blue; the orchestra was composed en¬
tirely of ladies dressed in white satin mother-
7
98
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
hubbards trimmed with gold braid. The music
was grand and delightful. The palace contained
three pianos and was most elegantly furnished,
while the whole evening's entertainment is be¬
yond words of description. Prof. Scarborough
and wife accompanied us on this occasion.
Wednesday, the nth, Bishop Arnett read the
statistical report of the Methodist churches of
the world, several corrections were made in it.
A number of speeches were also made on the dif¬
ferent kinds of societies in the church for the
young people, the Christian Endeavor, Epworth
League and Wesley Guilds, were all at length
discussed and each had their enthusiastic adher¬
ents. Among the speakers was Bishop Walters,
of the Zion church, who, aside from other things
said, he liked the Christian Endeavor because it
had no color line in it.
At night there was another reception at St.
James' Hall to extend the welcome greetings of
the different churches of London to the Confer¬
ence. Bishop Derrick and myself attended to¬
gether. Some of the speeches were very broad
and eloquent.
Thursday, the 12th, the Conference was not
so largely attended, most of the delegates had
gone to hear the renowned Dr. Parker. I list¬
ened to several of the speeches, and then in com¬
pany with Bishop Lee, went to hear Dr. Parker
too. I enjoyed his talk very much, it was very
plain and simple, any body most could have un¬
derstood anything he said.
BACK IN LONDON.
The subject of discussion at the afternoon'.-;
session was "Home training and family prayer,"
it proved very interesting, if not beneficial to all.
Friday, the 13th, the paper read was on tem¬
perance, the usual discussion followed. A tele¬
gram was read concerning the health of President
McKinley, which informed us that he was rest-
.■ig some easier.
In the afternoon the Conference discussed the
subject of gambling.
The women held another meeting as a final of
arrangements for their missionary meeting that
night. The Old Woman was assigned as repre¬
sentative for all the women in the A. M. E.
church.
At the night meeting there were sixteen women
on the platform, ten of whom were speakers. Mrs.
Clinton read a paper and sang a solo, but she
would not sing the plantation melody.
Saturday, the 14th, a paper was read, subject,
"The perils of increasing wealth and luxury." It
was very excellent, but was not discussed. The
business committee read their report, after which
the death of President McKinley was announced,
a sadness was brought over all, and the Confer¬
ence in respect to his memory adjourned until
Monday.
In the afternoon in company with Bishops
Arnett, Smith and the Old Woman Ave visited
the British museum with its teeming, and val¬
uable stores of gold and diamond relics bearing
volumes of history of the past. We visited the
100
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
Abbey, descended its vaults and looked upon the
homes of its dead, then to the grand house of
Parliament where the laws of the great Kingdom
are enacted, after beholding its splendors, we re¬
turned to our hotel, refreshed ourselves and after
a pleasant evening's social retired for the night.
Sunday, the 15th, we took a hackev and drove
to the Primitive Methodist church where 1
preached to a large and appreciative audience.
We took dinner with the minister and his family
and spent a very pleasant stay with them unt:I
three o'clock in the afternoon. We then attended
worship at the historic Spurgeon tabernacle. It
is a very large place of worship; it is provided
with two galleries, and as a whole seats a very
large number of people. The preacher's subject
was, "The blood saveth from all sin." He spoke
about seeing- and hearing" a musical clock in the
hall of a certain hotel at the end of every half
hour playing the soul touching tune, "Nothing but
the Blood of Jesus." After preaching all were
invited to Communion in the lecture room, while
others were invited to the after meeting on the
outside of the church. This service was grand
jf itself, they sang "Nothing but the Blood of
Jesus. ' It was lovely and when this service was
closed, many were affected.
Monday, the 16th, a paper was read, subject.
"The strength of the pulpit," which was ver>>
good. It called for quite a number of discussions.
Tuesday afternoon was arranged as the time
for memorial services for President McKinlev.
BA.CK IN LONDON.
101
During- the evening Bishop Gaines took very
sick, his daughter came for me. I had retired,
but I hurriedly dressed and went to his room, the
doctor was sent for and soon arrived. After an
examination he ordered hot wrater to be kept 011
his stomach, so for the night I was installed as
a nurse, and as best I knew, iwith the assistance
of the Old Woman, accorded every care for the
relief of our patient. To say the least he was
much improved by morning, but was unable to
leave his room.
Tuesday, the 17th, the subject for the morning"
was, "Missionary Labor." It was discussed at
some length.
At 2 P. M., memorial services were held in
respect to President McKinley, the platform was
nicely draped in black and white, which was
tastefully set off by a wreath of white flowers.
Prof. Scarborough and myself procured some
of the flowers after the service as a memento.
Two prayers were offered, three hymns were
sunR- and two speeches delivered. The burial ser¬
vices were read, the dead march played and the
benediction pronounced at 4:45 P. M., thus ad¬
journing this remarkable Conference for the next
ten years.
In company with Bishops Derrick, Arnett,
Tvree and Prof. Scarborough, wre departed from
the pleasant scenes of the past few weeks, re¬
paired to our hotel, inquired after the health of
Bishop Gaines—found him sitting up in bed and
much improved, prepared for refreshments, en-
102
THK vSHVKN KINGDOMS.
joyed the rest of the evening in company with
several of my colleagues and at a late hour re¬
tired for a much needed rest.
Wednesday, the 18th, the Conference over, we
completed our rounds of sight seeing, we went
to the famous London tower, saw the crown
jewels, the old prison and the Armory, as well
as the place where Queen Elizabeth and Lady
Jane Grey were beheaded. The prison is a dark
and dreary looking place. Arriving at our hotel,
Bishop Arnett presented us with tickets which he
had procured for the memorial services to be held
at St. Paul's on the following day. Miss Gaines
was arranging her father's trunk. Bishop Tanner
had already taken his departure. Dr. Ransom
paid us a farewell visit before leaving. This is
Bishop Lee's birthday, so we are informed; he
is sixty years old.
And now we are preparing to take our leave
of the dear old continent that for weeks has af¬
forded us so much pleasant entertainment. A
few weeks ago, we were dreaming of the Old
World, now we were dreaming of the New: we
had taken our step one way, now we were about
to step back again.
Our emotions were naturally of a mixed char¬
acter. We had not been long enough absent to
grow tired of traveling. On the contrary, we
had only increased our taste for it. Manv beau¬
tiful parts of Europe remained to be seen. And
we said to ourselves will we ever come back
again ?
BACK IN LONDON
103
Then on the other hand it was pleasant to an¬
ticipate meeting with those from whom we had
parted weeks ago, and sitting down in our own
home, to collect our thoughts quietly, and live
over again, in happy talk, the scenes we had gone
through.
We felt deeply grateful, too, to that kind Pro¬
vidence which had protected and blessed us; and
we looked forward with hope to a prosperous
voyage home.
Thursday, the 19th, after breakfast, we went
down to the office and settled our board bill, re¬
turned to our room, fixed our baggage. Prof.
Scarborough and wife left at 9130, and we
shortly followed at 10:45. The proprietor,
Bishop Gaines and daughter came to the veranda
and bid us good bye. Our train left London at
noon, after five hours on the road we arrived at
Liverpool and registered at the Adelphia Hotel;
it was near the dinner hour and the orchestra was
rendering lovely music which was quite cheering
to us. Without the rain was descending and the
air was raw and cool.
The following day, which was Friday, we
went to the ship's office to see if our tickets were
correct, did some purchasing for our friends
whom we knew were waiting us on the other side,
and returned to our hotel. To our delight we
found that Bishops Lee, Smith and Arnett had
arrived.
On Saturday, the 21st, at 2:45, we made for
the wharf. We had not been there very long be-
104
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
fore Bishop Tyree arrived. The ship we sail on
is the Campania, our room is 96, and very cozy
for the trip. Thousands of people have gathered
to see the ship sail from port. At 4 *.45 our proud
queen pulled from the shore, it was raining a lit¬
tle and the fog was very heavy. We sat on deck
until the first call for dinner, it being so very cool,
we did not return on deck. The Bishops spent
the rest of the evening in conversation with each
other.
CHAPTER XI.
A Storm at Sea.
Sunday, September the 22cl, this is our first
-clav at sea, we arose early, dressed and went on
deck to see the mail and passengers transfer from
the mail boat to our steamer. We remained at
Oueenstown three hours. The Irish peasants in
row-boats came along side of our ship with many
different kinds of wares which they offered for
sale; one man, woman and girl came aboard with
their wares, the others sat in their boats, they
tied the rope to their baskets and threw them on
board of the ship, thus those desiring to buy had
but to pull the rope. The Old Woman remarked,
"What a pity to see white people so poor, es¬
pecially when they have all the chances before
them." A number of the passengers purchased
from them and what a dear purchase it was to
those wretched salesmen, for there was hardly
one that was not drenched with rain. Our ship
gave signal for moving- and all the rowsmen
pulled their little crafts away, as it was danger¬
ous for them to remain in the splash of the large
waves made by our ship.
At i 130, we lost sight of land for the last time
for a week ; at n o'clock religious services were
held in the dining room, the weather had grown
worse, the sea was angry, a storm was on. Our
106
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
party had begun to realize the effects of the storm
already and were feeling so badly that none felt
like leaving their seats to venture in. The lunch
horn sounded at i P. M., but we had not the dis¬
position to go to the table, so we had a light one
served us on deck; I believe some of our party
did try the table for a few minutes, but had to
leave.
I became so sick that I had to go to bed, I just
was able to get off my coat and shoes, the others
had fallen in, in like manner as myself. Bishop
Arnett took quite sick on deck, the Old Woman
tried to help him to his room, but feeling so badly
herself, had to give up the task and call the
porter. He remained in bed helpless as a baby
until Monday. He says he tried to get up several
times but was unable to make it.
By this time I was feeling the most wretched.
The Old Woman had weakened at last and was
brought to my cabin in but a little better condi¬
tion than myself or any of the others. She just
arrived in time to hold my head, for I had be¬
gun to exhibit my extravagance by throwing
away all that I had been paying so dearly for,
and which for some reason would not down. The
Old Woman had no sooner got me back in bed,
than completely overcome, she fell in bed unable
even to undress herself. The Stewardess came
to assist her but she was so very wretched in feel¬
ings, she could not bear being touched; she was
very kind and gave us many attentions during the
night, for instead of getting better, we grew
A STORM AT SEA.
worse. Oh, such a storm, the ship was just rock¬
ing- from side to side, the wind blowing and the
huge waves splashing over the ship as if they
would crush it at any moment. One felt as if
the whole ocean would soon rush in at the win¬
dows and doors. We slept but little and prayed
for morning to come.
Monday, the 23d, we are too sick to get up,
nearly every passenger on board is in bed, only
eight are at the table and I suppose they must be
old salts, or like the others they too would be
helpless under covers. Some of the Bishops tried
to get up during the day. Bishops Lee, Smith and
Arnett succeeded but the latter had to crawl in
again. The old Woman, Bishop Tyree and myself
remained in bed all day, we were very feeble; all
we could eat was a little lemonade broth. All
day the storm in its fury rages and it seems as if
we will surely die.
I had another extravagant spell, but had to
enjoy my wastefulness all alone, the Old Woman
was too ill herself to assist me. Bishops Lee and
Smith got to our room to inquire after our health,
but were quite poorly themselves. The lunch
horn is blowing but few respond to its call, as few
can even sit up; the ship rocks and tosses so much,
it seems as if we will be dashed out of our beds,
and we so helpless; we can't even hold up our
heads.
Tuesday, the 24th, the storm is still raging, we
are too weak to rise, our only diet is a little ice
08
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
lemonade. The storm has so increased that no
one can go on deck at all. All the port holes are
closed and every one most is in bed. No fresh
air is now admitted to our cabins, which adds to
our misery. We had another spell of sea-sickness
to-day and if they continue it seems as if we will
die. The lunch horn is blowing- for dinner but
few are yet prepared for duty. This is the worst
day for everybody. The sailors are wringing
wet, they are burdened with duty and are run¬
ning from one side of the ship to the other in the
performance of their service. One poor unfortu¬
nate sailor was killed to-day; he was dashed by
one of the waves on the hurricane deck against an
iron rod and had his head crushed; he was one
of the oldest sailors of the crew and one of the
first to enter commission with this ship. The ac¬
cident happened in the morning and he was bur¬
ied at sea at four in the afternoon. They placed
him in a coffin, wrapped that in the British flag
and weighted it with a quantity of lead, a plank
was lowered to the water's edge, and on this the
coffin and its mortal contents was pushed into the
embrace of the lashing' and furious waves. A
few passengers beheld this sad scene, we were
helpless in bed. They say it was a very sorrow¬
ful sight. The acicdent happened right over oui
berth. The horn is sounding for lunch, I am
able to take just a little tea. The sea is still rag¬
ing and darkness draweth near. What will be
our fate by morning-, the good Providence only
l<nows.
A STORM AT SEA.
Wednesday, the 25th, 1 am feeling a little bet¬
ter, the Old Woman is just about the same. The
wind has lulled a little and the sea is somewhat
calmer. I tried hard and long to get on my
shoes. I first put on one and then laid down n
while, and then tried the other. I finally got my
clothes on, but my head was so giddy, I found
it quite hard to sit up well, we rang for the stew¬
ard and were assisted on deck once more; it was
too wet to remain there long so we retreated to
the saloon. All day the steward brought us
blankets and pillows, as we had made the lounges
our beds, we dreaded so much to go back into the
close cabins; the port holes were still closed and
no fresh air could be admitted. We remained in
these quarters until 1 A. M., and had fallen into
a slumber; the storm had again increased and the
water was coming in at the skylights, the pil¬
lows and blankets on which we were lying were
wet,while the water already dropping on our heads
had woke us up. We got up and found that the
lounges and everything most in the saloon was
soaked, there was but one remedy, however much
we hated it, and that iwas to repair to that sur¬
feiting cabin. We were just able to creep back
to this dreaded place and fall across our beds.
One of the lady passengers slept through the
whole journey in the salon on the wet couch,
she would not by any entreaty re-enter her room.
The night wore on and we finally fell asleep and
for a while our misery was forgotten.
Thursday, the 26th, we arose about 4 A. "AT..
110
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
and dressed as best we could, putting on a piece
now and then and resting at many intervals. We
rot to the cabin about six o'clock and had a little
tea, lemonade and crackers. All the Bishops were
now up and joined us. Bishop Arnett had to re¬
tire to the saloon, as the wind was too strong for
him. A greater number of the passengers were
now able to enter the dining room for their meals.
Everyone is anxious about the others' health and
are persuading the Old Woman and myself to eat
something. It is raining, yet a number are try¬
ing to stay on deck. The lunch horn is blowing
and we have decided to eat a little boiled ham and
toast.
A strange lady and the Old Woman have made
friends and are trying to console each other.
Everything most is wet, the waves have calmed
to a great extent, however, and I am standing in
the door of the cabin trying to get a little fresh
air.
Bishop Arnett is taking some lunch, but he is
very feeble and the steward has to help him ail
the while. The ship is becoming more still and
manageable. This morning- the little children
were in evidence for the first time in several days
and were trying to make merry with their toys.
It is dinner time and we are going to try a little
broth. The water beg-an to come in the cabin
again, so we had to return to our room. We are
so tired for the want of a little sleep. The night
was as frightful as several former ones and we
were glad for the dawn of the morning light.
a storm: at si a.
111
Friday, the 27th, a great improvement is to be
noticed in all passengers, Bishops Tyree, Lee,
Arnett and Smith were all able to join us at the
table for breakfast. The storm is not so fearful
and many are going on deck for the fresh air.
Everybody seems to be feeling much better,
and are to be seen in large numbers at the table
at meal hours. This is always a good sign. The
weather is real cold and everybody is wrapped
in their shawls and coats. There is to be a con¬
cert to-night and several'persons are practicing
for the event.
The Old Lady and her new made friends, the
Barkers (wife, husband and son), are having a
pleasant time talking; they have been traveling
since June and live in Chicago.
We saw two ships to-day, the first since we
left Queenstown; one came very close to our ship.
The afternoon was cloudy and dreary. We at¬
tended the concert at night; we purchased a pro¬
gramme and enjoyed the ?*musements from the
music room. It was over by eleven and we re¬
tired to our room for the night, enjoying the best
rest that was ours since leaving Liverpool.
Saturday, the 28th, arose at four and arrived
at quarantine at 6 A. M., and to our delight saw
a pretty sun rise for the first time in a week. Mail
was exchanged and the quarantine doctor came
aboard. As there was a case of small-pox re¬
ported the quarantine boat took him in charge
and sent him to the hospital; he did not look like
he had the disease any more than any of the oth-
112
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
ers and in my Judgment it was a bad case of sea¬
sickness more than any thing else. It was re¬
ported we would have to remain out in the harbor
for twenty-four hours on account of this affair,
but after the sick man was removed, our ship
raised anchor and we started for dock.
"We were much impressed with our first sight
of Sandy Hook and its flash light, as it appeared
to us in the early morning, it looked like streaks
of lightning out of a dark cloud, it was the first
sight that met our gaze as we stepped out upon
the deck in the morning, it made me think of one
of the Sankey hymns, "Let the Lower Lights bc-
Burning."
Everybody aboard was rejoicing when we
raised anchor and started for the wharf. We were
somewhat late and a great number of friends had
been waiting since eight o'clock for our arrival,
it was i o'clock when we reached the dock. The
people on the ship started to tell those on the
wharf what a terrible time we had at sea long be¬
fore we were fast at anchor. Some of the pas¬
sengers whistled, hollowed, waved handker¬
chiefs and flags, everyone was lively and gay as
if they had forgotten their awful past experi¬
ence.
A number were made verv vexed bv the custom
officials, in the way they handled some of the bag¬
gage, many were treated shamefullv, evervthing
was turned upside down. We got off with our
baggage in very good shape. A man that had
A STORM AT SEA.
US
some respect for people inspected and handled
ours; be just opened our luggage and told us to
shut them up again. He did not move an article.
It is such an excitement at the custom house here.
I think it worse in New York than any place we
have been. They did Bishop Arnett badly. He
had purchased a silk dress for his wife, which
had cost fifty-nine dollars, they made him pay
a duty of thirty-five on it. Bishop Tyree had
purchased one for his wife for thirty-five dollars
and he had to pay a duty of thirteen dollars and
seventy-five cents. It was a shame they were
treated so. We were glad to get off so easy our¬
selves.
Through the custom house we hurried to a
carriage and were soon comfortably situated in
pleasant appartments at the Hotel Vendome, on
the corner of Broadway and Forty-first street.
After sending dispatches to Charleston and Bal¬
timore we sat down for rest and prepared for the
services which we intended attending Sunday.
Sunday, the 29th, we spent in New York and
Brooklvn. In the morning I preached at Bridge
Street A. M. E. church and at night attended r,
platform meeting at Bethel.
Monday we started for Baltimore and were
met at the train by Dr. Beckett. We spent a visit
of two days here with our many friends, who
very cordially welcomed us home. Thursday we
started for Charleston and reached the city of
our home at 4 130. Rev. J. S. Morant met us at
the depot, escorted us to a carriage and soon we-
8
114
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.!
were in the embrace of mother and seated at a
warm delicious breakfast prepared by Eliza.
The other day we were in London, and here
we were in Charleston again. Every object looked
just as we had left it. We almost doubted
whether we had been away. Then, when we drove
up to our own door, we found all safe, nothing
had happened. The door opens—all are well.
Here is my library; here is the chair in which I
am wont to sit. It is the old, pleasant home still.
We have stepped back again and so our journey
was ended.
ELEMENTS OF PULPIT EFFECTIVENESS
DELIVERED AT THE ECUMENICAL CONFERENCE,
LONDON.
The history of pulpit effectiveness has not been
a continuous progress, it has had its time of decay
and revival. Now it has appeared as though every
age has possessed it, and like an undisputed king,
it has been received and crowned with a blessing
to the generations.
Again it has languished in force and character,
living only by the effort of struggle on the part of
its representatives. In the time of the Apostles its
march was a triumph. Ere the last of them fell
asleep beneath the purple sky of Ephesus, it hdd
moved and subdued the most considerable citadels
of the world, and every thing seemed fair and
promising for the speedy conversion of men
through the efforts of a consecrated pulpit.
Through the dreary ages succeeding, the effec¬
tiveness of this light shone more dimly, until, like
the torches of a funeral, it shone only on the
mourners of the dead.
The pulpit became formal, ambition seized
upon the truth, zeal became stultified and estab¬
lished upon its possession a vast ecclesiastical
power; thus the Popery of Rome overlaid the
•Gospel ennunciation of Paul.
116
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
The church was weary for the light, there came
a season of revival, the chains of stereotype meth¬
ods and symbols were forged. Luther and W ick-
liffe, joined by another mighty host of pulpit
patriots, like Whitfield, Knox, Calvin, Wesley,
Allen and others, endowed with the spirit of the
Apostles; marshaled forth and with their holy
zeal, put life into the truth they preached, like
unto that established by the struggles of the first.
With inspiration at this hour, I draw a reflec¬
tion from the memories,—immortal—of these ex¬
alted characters, their faith, power, and char¬
acter, that is worthy of emulation in this day of
our trial, development and progress. \
I have thought, very carefully too, that what we
need most, is to come back to the old land mark
WTe must have Christ in the heart, as well as
education in the head. I believe that Mr. Wesley,
when he preached years ago in that pulpit, had an
educated head, a converted heart, and a pious
life. Neither of these qualities, alone, but united
and inseparable, will the standard attained by the
Fathers be realized by the ministry of to-day.
I do not believe in Apostolic succession, I be¬
lieve in Wesleyan succession. Mr. Weslev con¬
secrated Mr. Asburv, he laid his great hands on
the bishops of the Methodist Episcopal Church:
among them was Richard Allen, who followed
Mr. Asbury and caught his inspiration. He mav
not have had all the education required then, but
he had a converted heart and a pious life. From
ELEMENTS OF PULPIT EFFECTIVENESS 117
him our church started. To-day, as Negro Meth¬
odists, we are educating the head, and seeing that
the heart is converted, and that the man's life is
a pious one, before he preaches the Gospel of the
Lord Jesus Christ among us.
With a high degree of pride can we point to
our Wilberforce College, which is preparing men
to preach the Gospel of the risen Savior. We have
in the grand and great "Lone Star State" of
Texas, Paul Quinn College, which is polishing
and preparing the young Negro to preach the
Gospel of the Lord Jesus Christ, and at the same
time seeing that his heart is converted and that
his life is a pious one. We have in the greatest
State in the world—there is no State to surpass
it, as far as I know—the State of South Carolina,
our Allen University. It is great because it gave
the church an Andrews, it gave the Methodist
Church a Capers, who first sowed the seed of
righteousness among the Negroes of that State,
and it lit a torch of righteousness in that State;
and around this fire the Negro to-day is warming
himself over the blaze of Methodism and Chris¬
tian piety. We have in Georgia, the Empire
State, our Morris Brown College, and from this
college we are sending men, educated, with con¬
verted hearts, and of pious lives. I am glad to
inform you, as a member of that race, that we are
preaching the whole Jesus, a living Christ, and a
pure Gospel. I think, again, that what we want,
as Christian ministers, is more piety. We want
lis
THE SKVKN KINGDOMS.
our pulpits clean, pure and good. We want our
pulpits filled with men whose lips are pure, and
whose lives are lives of Christian piety. We want
them, when they go into the pulpit, to lift up the
cross of Christ, and to be filled with the Holy
Ghost, and we want to do, like John Wesley used
to do, namely, spend hours in our closets pre¬
paring to unfold the sacred mysteries of the Lord
to the dying world.
My prayer is this morning that we may all go
from this Ecumenical Conference full of God, full
of Christ, and full of the Holy Ghost, and I pray
that the Wesleyan spirit may fall on us all as we
look back with faith, through the eye of the
imagination, see Wesley there, with his open arms
pronouncing the Apostolic Benediction; that the
Holy Ghost may fall on each of us and that we
may go to our homes with the torch burning
brightly, living and preaching the whole Christ.
("Amen.")
THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE CHRIS¬
TIAN CHURCH.
PREACHED AT THE WESTMINSTER CHAPEL—LON¬
DON, ENGLAND, SEPT. 1ST, I9OI.
Micah 4:1, 2.
"But iii the last days it shall come to pass, that
the mountain of the house of the Lord shall be
established in the top of the mountains, and it
shall be exalted above the hills, and the people
shall flow unto it.
"And many nations shall come and say, Come,
and let us go up to the mountain of the Lord and
to the house of the God of Jacob; and he will
teach us of his ways, and we will walk in his
paths; for the law shall go forth of Zion, and
the word of the Lord from Jersusalem."
Theme.
The universality of the Christian Church and
the spread of the Gospel through the labor of mis¬
sionaries.
I. "The Church rendered conspicuous to all."
It is scarcely necessary to observe that such
phrases as the "mountain of the Lord's house,"
and "Zion" signify in such connection as the pres¬
ent—the Church of God.
The visible Church has, from its beginning, al¬
ways had an existence; but its boundaries have
.120
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
generally been very limited, and its situation has
often been very obscure. The mere mention of
Abel, Seth, Enoch, Abraham, and his seed; Zion,
Jerusalem and Judea will illustrate this fact.
Its limits were greatly extended during the days
of the Apostles (notably among these Paul's Mis¬
sionary Journeys) and during some subsequent
years. But since those days, until very recently,
how often all that deserves the name of Church
has been confined to a small space; and hidden, as
in a corner ! Now in this land and then in that;
but no matter how adverse the circumstances, how
relentless the persecutions, the time will come
when the Church shall be conspicuous to all, as on
the top of the mountain. She shall be so circum¬
stanced,—so situated that all that may shall
behold her. Philosophy, Idolatry, Supersti¬
tion and Error shall no longer obstruct
her view or obscure her glory. The Bible,
the Savior, and His followers shall then no
more be contemned. Zion shall be generally
recognized by all; her sovereignity recognized,
her laws honored, her goodness regarded, her
greatness revered, her ordinances attended, Zion
shall be praised in all the earth. She shall be es¬
tablished. How has the Church been tossed as by
tempests! Convulsed as by commotions, driven
hither and yon as by the conflicting spiral evolu¬
tions of the cyclone. (But like the house upon
the rock), being thus established, no longer shall
persecutions general or partial oppress her ; no
THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
121
longer shall the arm of human power disturb her ;
no longer shall she be driven in her doctrines
or her members from one land to another by
popes, by councils, by ungodly sovereigns, or by
any other hostile power; for the Highest himself
shall establish her! Amid these favorable cir¬
cumstances there shall be a disposition in all
toward the Church! As yet, a few in a nation, in
a town, in a village, a few in a family, or at most,
a nation partially have moved toward Zion, like
small and solitary streams. But at the fulfillment
of this promise—Behold nations, all nations mov¬
ing in masses, such masses as may be compared
to rivers deep and wide, and they all How, move
onward to Zion as rivers to the ocean.
Their movements shall be characterized by
friendly co-operation. Many people shall go and
say, "Come ye, and let us go!" All, every one.
"Ho every one that thirsteth," etc., etc. A gen¬
eral invitation.
"Let us go up to the house of the God of Jacob.
He will teach us his ways." They own their
ignorance, and seek to be taught. They have
confidence in his goodness and ability. "He will
teach us."
What religion but Christianity! What God
but our God teaches! We will walk in his paths,
we will believe his doctrines; we will obey his pre¬
cepts ; not those of men, or of corrupt nature.
For out of Zion shall go the law and the word
of the Lord from Jerusalem. All nations have
122
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
had their laws, (some iniquities enough, heaven
knows!) All legislatures have had their words.
But the Lazv, the lazu suited indiscriminately to
all lands, to all peope, to all classes of men, is the
lazo out of Zion, the Gospel. It has never been
found unsuitable to any people, and has ever en¬
nobled all who received it. It is from Zion, from
Jerusalem, from the Church, the Bible that un¬
adulterated truth proceeds. Heathens no longer
bow down to wood and stone, etc., etc.
The Law. The word literally went out from
Jerusalem. After the Pentecost they spoke with
cloven tongues, Acts 2..
III. The blessing resulting from these circum¬
stances; "He shall judge among the nations,
and shall rebuke many^ people," etc. While
men judged, after the sight of their eyes,
and the hearing of their ears, nations
quarrelled with nations, and man with man. But
at the period here referred to, taught from above,
thev. generally own the authority of God, ac¬
knowledge his right to judge, and submit to his
laws. Those that do not he will rebuke; will
teach by severe methods, such as will not yield to
milder means; until all submitting to the "Prince
of Peace," "They shall beat their swords," etc.
The Jews too long cast off on account of their
wickedness and obstinancy shall no longer wander
in the mazes of error, and amidst darkness that
may be felt; but listening to the voice of the
prophet or to some Christian teachers, or to some
THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH
123
divine suggestion which inspires them with dispo¬
sitions of obedience and of reciprocal good will,
they shall acknowledge Christ as the light of the
world, and thus the house of Jacob too shall come
and walk in the light of the Lord.
IV. The period of these great events.
"It shall come to pass in the last days."
The Church of God has had her days, and these
days have been somewhat commensurate with the
progress of time, and with the limited or more ex¬
tended population of the earth.
The day of the patriarchal church was a day
of comparatively small things, when the people
of God were few in number; yea! very few.
I Chron. 16:19. "When ye were but few, even
a few, and strangers in it."
The Jewish Church had her day—a day of
many years during which the boundaries of Zion
were enlarged. But the patriarchs and prophets
spoke of another day—of other days which they
called the last days. To these days our text re¬
fers and the New Testament makes it plain what
these days are. (See Acts 2:17.)
"And it shall come to pass in the last days, saith
God, I will pour out my spirit upon all flesh; and
your sons and your daughters shall prophesy, and
your young men shall see visions, and your old
men shall dream dreams."
Heb. 1:1,2. "God who at sundry times and in
divers manners spake in time past unto the fathers
by the prophets, hath in these last days spoken
unto us by his Son."
124
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
i Peter i :20. "Who verily was foreordained
before the formation of the world, but was mani¬
fest in these last times for you."
That they are days of the Messiah—of his
gospel, and of his Holy Spirit; days, that should
be followed by no other day, and therefore called
"the last days." Hence the Comforter is
promised as one that should abide forever. John
xvi, 16.
It is sufficiently evident then that the prophet
referred this great event to the days of the gospel.
And as such a day as he describes has not yet
fully opened upon us, we can consider ourselves
as only verging towards it.
(Humanly speaking, God's days are long ones,
even as a thousand years.
Two of these have nearly elapsed since the
commencement of the last days; and the time
spoken of may therefore be at hand, and the signs
of the time bespeak its approach. This we know!
"It shall come to pass," for the mouth of the Lord
hath spoken it.
Let this prophecy cheer all whose spirits have
drooped on account of the few who have hitherto
embraced real Christianity. We might multiply
passages for our encouragement. Jesus says,
"The gospel of this Kingdom shall be preached to
all," etc. Again his word of promise is, "He
shall have dominion from sea to sea, and from the
river to the end," etc.
There is not, nor can be, any question as to the
THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH.
125
ultimate triumph of Christianity, we are some¬
times disposed to become impatient and expect re¬
sults not at all commensurate with the labor per¬
formed. Do we not here see history repeating it¬
self.
Do we not see this Church of ours like the
patriarchal church for a period of about seventy
years when her limits were circumscribed and her
borders extended only to the River, but treading
hard on the heels of the triumphal armies came
the host of God's messengers spreading the joyful
tidings of the Savior of mankind, till every valley,
hill and dale responds to the tune of "Old Hun¬
dred," and the banner of the Lord Jesus proudly
floats to every breeze nor have we been content
with this; but the islands of the sea, and the con¬
tinent of our fore-fathers are learning how blest
the name of Jesus is. The gospel of the Son of
God is penetrating to the darkest nook, and zone,
and heathens are no longer bowing to wood and
stone, but are looking to Jesus who was made a
little lower than the angels, for the suffering of
death crowned with glory of honor. Let this hope
excite us to renewed exertions in rendering
divine truth conspicuous to all.
Let it call forth the deepest gratitude of all who
already participate the blessings of redemption.
And soon our song shall be hallelujah for the
Lord God Omnipotent reigneth.
Having taken a cursory or superficial view of
the work of the Church generally, may I be par-
126
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
doned if I speak briefly on the especial work ot
the African Methodist Episcopal Church.
I bow in reverence before the shrines of our de¬
parted ones; the pioneers, the founders, the fath¬
ers of our grand organization, men imbued with
and inspired by the spirit of the living God, who
built wiser, deeper, stronger, and broader than
they knew; upon whose substantial foundation
four generations have already stood and acknowl¬
edge the supremacy of God.
Little dreamt the Spartan band, who first un¬
furled the banner of African Methodism, that ere
a century had rolled away, if indeed it lasted that
long, that every nook and dale, every hillside and
valley, every mountain and plain from the
Rockies to the Bay; from the rivers to the Gulf,
stretching its giant arms and embracing two con¬
tinents, while the islands of the sea, nestle at its
feet, and learn of Jesus.
But her mission is not alone to teach of Jesus.
By far the most important work is to bring men
to Christ, but akin to that has been to teach the
moral manhood of Man, and the moral woman¬
hood in woman; emerging as the masses were,
from the thralldom and depravity of human
bondage, no wonder it has been alleged, that our
progress has been slow, but we have obtained help
from God and the result is plainly seen, in the
countless happy homes and model families that go
to make up a race of which to-day we are proud,
a race destined to become, (despite the cracking's
THE CHRISTIAN CHURCH
127
of all who may attempt to clecry the possibilities
of the race) an important factor in the intellectual,
the professional, the commercial, the scientific, as
well as the religious world. This is not only
largely, but almost solely, due to the untram-
meled freedom, influence, and exercise of thought
taught by, and within the pales of the African
Methodist Episcopal Church.
No longer does emotional or sensationalism
characterize our worship, but a deep-seated rever¬
ence for God, and a harmonious breathing
of the Holy Spirit pervades the hearts of his
people. This we trust will continue, the nations
shall recount God's marvels and Zion sing his
praises.
IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES.
PREACHED AT PRIMITIVE METHODIST CHAPEL
LONDON, ENGLAND, SEPTEMBER I5TH, I9OI.
"Lo! I am with you always."—Matt. 28:20.
Mutability is written on all human affairs—
everything is liable to changes. Decay and deso¬
lation mark the ravages of time.
Along the mountain slope time and atmospheric
changes have furrowed its brow and left a rugged
and barren waste where vegetation once spread
her luxuriant mantle.
The earth with its undulating surface con¬
vinces the students of geology that the upheavals
of nature are marked by the changes of old
Father Time. Look above you! Look around
you! Look beneath you, and realize if you can
the changes, geological, meteorlogical and nat¬
ural, that have occurred since God spake the
world into existence.
The divine historian, lost in wonder and amaze¬
ment, wrapt in solitude amid the rocky clefts and
arid deserts of Midian, contemplating the omni¬
potence of a beneficient God and the mysterious
working- of his providential dispensations for the
benefit of his creatures, exclaims: "In the be¬
ginning God created the heaven and the earth!''
"If we work upon marble, it will crumble and
"decay; if we work upon brass, it will fade away
IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 120
and perish, and if we work upon immortal souls,
it will remain imperishable forever."
Whatever enterprise we engage in, it is equally
rational and just duly to consider the general
merits of its character and the probable results of
its issue. This is more especially the case when
we embark in any cause which is likely to involve
the most interesting and important consequences.
This is unquestionably the character of re¬
ligion; which is the one thing needful to every
human being. In making choice, therefore, jf
this momentous subject, we should first count the
cost, then willingly renounce everything which is
incompatible with its possession; or it is impos¬
sible to realize its personal benefits
"In the world," said Jesus to his disciples, "ye
shall have tribulation;" this he clearly foresaw
would be the case from the spirit engendered by
all false religions and from the manner in which
his own, (so far as it should be plainly, faithfully,
and perseveringly published and exemplified)
would expose and condemn them and the practices
which they countenanced.
Persecution commonly defeats its own object.
Persecutors have aimed at the total overthrow of
Christianity and the irreparable ruin of its advo¬
cates.
But God counteracts the designs of his enemies
and makes the wrath of men and devils turn to
his praise.
"Angels and men before him fall,
And devils fear and flv."
9
130
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
When he sent forth the seventy, they returned
again with joy, exclaiming: "Lord, even devils
are subject to us through thy name." This might
have been a pardonable ebullition of feeling on
their part, possibly on account of the unparalleled
successes attendant upon their labors. But the
Master kindly rebukes them and says: "Rejoice
not that the spirits are subject unto you, but
rather rejoice because your names are written in
heaven."—Luke 10:17-20.
Our Saviour had fulfilled his mission on earth;
he had performed the work he came to do; he had
given his charge thrice repeated to his now truly
converted and zealous Peter—to feed his sheep;
feed his lambs! He had repeatedly warned them
to go not into any city of the Samaritans.
But now he was going to take his leave; he was
going away from them to prepare a place where
he would finally gather together all his faithful
ones.
They were disposed to mourn at his departure
and lament at his final g'oing- away from them.
He says to them: "It is expedient that I go away,
etc." "I am going to prepare a place for you,
etc." "In my Father's house are many mansions,
etc." I have been a Comforter to vou while I
was with you, but now I am going away from
you, but I will not leave you comfortless. "I
will pray the Father and he shall give you another
Comforter that he may abide with )rou forever."
—John 14:16. "The Comforter, which is the
IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 131
Holy Ghost, whom the Father will send in my
name, he shall teach you all things and bring all
things to your remembrance whatsoever I have
said unto you."—John 14:26. "Remember I
said unto you, in this world ye shall have tribula¬
tion. But be of good cheer; I have overcome the
world."
How their hearts must have burned within
them as he unfolded to them the Scripture, en¬
lightened their dark understanding and said to
them: Thus it behooved Christ to suffer and to
rise from the dead the third day that repentance
and remission of sins should be preached in his
name among all nations.
"Hitherto while I was with you, I forbade you
going into any city of the Samaritans."
But now I am about to enlarge your field of
operation. T therefore now command you: "Go
ye into all the world and preach the gospel to
every creature." Knowing that tribulation and
distress await you on every side, tarry ye at Jeru¬
salem until ye be endued with the Holy Ghost.
Then as ye go forth in the Master's vineyard re¬
member :
1st. AS DISCIPLES OF THE LORD
JESUS YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO DIS¬
TRESSING AND PERILOUS CIRCUM¬
STANCES.
This will continue to be the case with all those
who consistently profess and are zealously em-
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
ployed in propagating the religion of the Lord.
Jesus Christ.
But if the disciples of the Lord Jesus in general
suffer on these accounts, you my brethren, will
suffer much more on account of the same things.
But in addition to these distressing circum¬
stances, the condition of the saints is rendered,
more dangerous by the efforts of the Evil One to
sow and propagate the growth of tares with the
good seed; or in other words, to suggest to the
proud, enthusiastic, and corrupt men. such senti¬
ments and practices as may tend to subvert the
understanding, the faith, and the purity of God's
people (among these we ma}' notice) the Unfaith¬
ful Hearers, such as feel a pleasure in attending-
the ministry of the Word; their passions are af¬
fected ; the understanding enlightened, and they
form purposes for the amendment of life, but the
impression is momentary. Such are "like unto
a man beholding his natural face in a glass; for
he beholdeth himself and g'oeth his way and
straightway forgetteth what manner of man he
was." Jas. i 123-24. Or though the effect ma}'
not be quite so transient, yet there is 110 decision
of character. They hear the word; they weep
under it; they abandon certain vices, and their
whole conduct for a season gives birth to a pleas¬
ing hope that they will become distinguished for
piety. But alas! they are unfaithful.
Another class is the Transient Reformers—
those who under providential visitations have de-
IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 133
termined to mend their ways and live for God,
but afterwards have relapsed into sin.
These characters are too numerous to mention.
Some in season of imminent danger have cried
unto the Lord in their distress and solemnly
vowed if he would deliver them, they would serve
him; but no sooner has the sea become calm; the
storm subsided; the fever fled; the danger passed
away, than they become as wicked as ever. Or
perhaps, it was the loss of a friend, a wife, a hus¬
band, a mother, a father, a brother, a sister, a
son or a daughter which led them to consider
their latter end; but 110 sooner had Nature dried
her tears, the grief assuaged than they relapse
into the characters here portrayed.
Another class you will have to contend with,
my brethren, are Inconstant Professors; these
go further than those I have named. For
they attend regularly the ordinances of God's
house, take up their cross to follow Christ, enroll
themselves with his disciples, profess to be saved
through faith in his blood, and zealously espouse
the cause of God.
But through unwatchfulness and a neglect of
Christian exercises, their piety degenerates, their
affections become cold, a longing desire for retire¬
ment is no longer felt, Christian communion loses
its wonted sweetness; the word preached, its
pathos is no longer food for the soul; at length
they have recourse to the fatal expedient of
abandoning religion altogether.
134
TIIK SEVEN KINGDOMS.
But that which carries the danger of the saint
to its highest point is the effort, the unwearied
effort of the enemy so to operate on the remaining
corruption of their nature, or so to press on their
weakest graces as either by allurement or dis¬
couragement to turn them out of the way; or else
by lifting them up by the pride of their attain¬
ments and performances to sink them into his
own condemnation.
By such means are the disciples of the Lord
Jesus tried and endangered; and by these very-
means have many in every age been destroyed.
My brethren, preach the Word; hold up a
bleeding Saviour; a pure Christ; a clean Jesus!
It is steep climbing to the stars. Lay aside rhe¬
torical flourishes; well-rounded flights, and
learned dissertations. Preach Christ in his offices.
—Prophet, Priest and King—
"Preach him to all and cry in death
Behold! Behold the Lamb!"'
But when beset and completely surrounded
with more than ordinary distresses, especially,
when you are marked out as the butt for ridicule
for the enemies of the Cross of Christ to shoot at;
the Rock which the furious waves of tribulation
are to lash; the Tree of Righteousness on which,
the storms of temptation are to expend themselves ;
when the turbulent billows are about to roll over
your frail barques; in the dark hour of deepest dis¬
tress amid the midnight gloom, above the raging-
of the storm, the fierce voice of the tempest, the
IMMUTABILITY OF GOD'S PROMISES.
135
vivid flashes of the lightning, the deafening roar
of retreating thunder—above it all—hear the
voice of Jesus whispering to your soul,
"Lo! I am with you alway."
2d. Remember this promise is based upon con-
saentiously performing those duties which arise
from our relation to God as his Servants, his
Stewards, his Soldiers.
As his covenant servants, we must devote our¬
selves to his service. Jer. i .-5. "I have sancti¬
fied thee and ordained thee a prophet unto the
nations." 1 Cor. 4:19, 20. "For the kingdom
of God is not in word but in power."
As his stewards, we must employ his gifts for
his glory. 1 Peter 4:10, 11. "As every man has
received the gifts, even so minister the same one
to another as good stewards of the manifold grace
of God. If any man speak, let him speak as the
oracle of God. If any man minister, let him do it
as of the ability which God giveth, that God in all
things may be glorified through Jesus Christ to
whom be praise and dominion forever and ever,
Amen.
As his soldiers, we must be valiant for his re¬
vealed truth. Jer. 913. "They are not valiant
for the truth, they proceed from evil to evil; and
they know not me, saith the Lord."
As his soldiers, we must courageously defend
the truth against all hostile attacks. Eph. 6:10-16.
""Put on the whole armor, etc."
We must endeavor to extend the knowledge
136
THE SEVEN KINGDOMS.
of God in the world. Psa. 67 .2. "That this may
be known upon the earth, his saving health among'
all nations. Mark 16:15. "Go ye into all the
world and preach the gospel to every creature."
As his soldiers, like Moses, we must not suffer
the allurements of this world to entice us from our
allegiance to God. Heb. 11 '.2^-26. "Esteeming
the reproach of Christ greater riches than the
treasures in Egypt; for he had respect unto the
recompense of the reward." Like Job, we must
remain unwearied in God's service and patiently
wait for his reward. Job 14:14. "All the days
of my appointed time will I wait until my change
comes." Heb. 10:36. "Exercise patience that
after ye have done the will of God, ye might re¬
ceive the promise."
We should realize God's presence with us as
our Master, Helper, and Observer.
Psa. 16:8. "Set the Lord always before thee;
put him at thy right hand." Psa. 46 :i. "God is
our refuge and strength, a very present help in
trouble." iHeb. 11 :27. "By faith he endured as
seeing Him who is invisible."
We should realize the g-lory promised to all
faithful followers of Christ—comprising a glor¬
ious rest. Rev. 14:13. "Write blessed are the
dead which die in the Lord from henceforth.
Yea, saith the Spirit, They rest from their labors
and their works do follow' them."
A Glorious Inheritance. 1 Pet. 3 :5> "Blessed
be the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ
Steamship Campania, bearing; the author and company home.
IMMUTABILIIY OF GOD'S PROMISES. 139
which according to his abundant mercy hath be¬
gotten us into a lively hope by the resurrection of
Jesus Christ from the dead. To an inheritance
incorruptible and undefiled that fadeth not awav
—reserved in heaven for you. Who are kept by
the power of God through faith unto salvation."
A Glorious Throne. Rev. 3:21. "To him
that overcometh will I grant to sit with me on my
throne, even as I have also overcome and am set
down with my Father on his throne."
A Glorious Crozmi. "The devil may cast some
of you into prison. Ye shall have tribulation.
But be thou faithful unto death, and I will give
you a crown of life."
A Glorious Happiness. Matt. 25:21. "The
Master will say unto thee, Well done good and
faithful servant, etc."
The Apostles preached Christ in his Nature, in
his supreme and eternal Divinity, in his humilia¬
tion, in his incarnation, suffering and death; in
his offices as Prophet, Priest and King. They
preached Christ because they loved him; because
they loved mankind, and because they knew their
preaching would be the salvation of the world.
CONCLUSION.
Christ eminently qualifies his ministers for
their work. The Gospel produces joy when it is
received into good and honest hearts.